# [Official] Heatkiller Club



## Juggalo23451

CopperTop***This is now The OFFICIAL** HeatKiller 3.0 Club*









*Come and Join the club(Click here).*

We would like to have a place where we as *HeatKiller* owners can go and talk with one another. To share updates with our projects, to share information about new ideas. To generally be able to share our stories and experiences with each other. By being able to find the perfect mix of components to make this block shine. To be a part.... All you have to do is own a *Heatkiller block*. Any CPU or GPU block will do. *Let us know your block, what model it is, and what type of radiator you use in your system.*

*Also, a worklog or permalink would be nice to be able to add you to the list easier. Thank you.*
*HeatKiller 3.0







*
Juggalo23451: HeatKiller 3.0; Feser 360
ltulod: HeatKiller 3.0; feser 360
jdomingo85: HeatKiller 3.0; GTX 360
Halciet: HeatKiller 3.0; Feser 360 & 240
_AKIMbO_: HeatKiller 3.0; XSPC RX360 <--- Pending Work log.
equetefue: HeatKiller 3.0; Feser Xchanger 240
Jason4i7: HeatKiller 3.0; MCR 320
motoray: HeatKiller3.0
Zero4549 Heatkiller3.0
Xandax Heatkiller 3.0
Shrimpykins: Heatkiller 3.0
//.DK: Heatkiller 3.0 (need mod log)
7hm: Heatkiller 3.0,Black Ice GTX 360
Foooman: Heatkiller 3.0, GTX360
jaded25: Heatkiller 3.0
Xur: heatketkiller 3.0 XSPC RX360
Lyric: Heatkiller 3.0 CPU Block
Lysdexik: heatkiller 3.0 & BIGTX360
Bastiaan_NL: Heatkiller 3.0
sailerboy: Heatkiller 3.0
CD69Scorp: Heatkiller 3.0
Digital Artist: Heatkiller 3.0 with XSPC RX360 rad
nonamed: Heatkiller 3.0
runeazn: Heatkiller Rev.3 CU
chriskaz: Heatkiller 3.0
OfficerMac: Heatkiller 3.0
Satogd:Heatkiller V3.0
Richy1204: HK AM2 3.0
R1P5AW: HK 3.0
nicko42004200: HK 3.0
KaRLiToS: HK 3.0
TrippinBimmer: HK 3.0
KOBALT: HK 3.0
ApexVIII: HK 3.0
Satogd: Hk3.0
runeazn: hk3.0
*********: HK3.0
wheth4400: HK 3.0
ShortySmalls: HK 3.0
Darkshadow74: HK 3.0
davidm71: HK 3.0
Cobra26:HK 3.0
c5pilot: HK 3.0
Space Pope: HK 3.0
ShadowFox19: HK 3.0
melantha: Hk 3.0
Gollie: HK 3.0cu Feser 360
TerryP: HK 3.0 Limited edition /w black ice 240 rad
cooper_inc1:HK 3.0
jimibgood: HK 3.0
skkhai: HK 3.0

Mayhem: heatkiller 3.0

Accept : Heatkiller 3.0

sli_shroom  : heat killer 3.0 chrome

Angrybutcher : heatkiller 3.0

HD5830Gamer: Heatkiller 3.0
*HeatKiller 3.0 LC*
richardbb85: HeatKiller 3.0 LC; XSPC 360
oblivion.sky: HeatKiller 3.0 LC
coltsrock: Heatkiller LC
driftingforlife: Heatkiller 3.0 lc

GhostRiderZG : heatkiller lc

*HeatKiller 3.0 LT*
caliga4221: Heatkiller 3.0 LT: BlackIce GTX 360
Zippit: XSPC RX360, Swiftec MCR320
Peace11uehman: HeatKiller LT; working is in
bumsoil: Heatkiller LT, MCR 320 + MCR 120
gig: HeatKiller LT
Emerican: Heatkiller LT
Psycho666: Heatkiller lt
Segovax:HK 3.0 LT
Heatkiller 3.0 LT
Knight2000:2 x Swiftech Mcr220-qp
fastsite:Heatkiller LT 775 and Black Ice Xtreme II
Exidous: Heatkiller LT
pestypest: HK 3.0 LT Fesser 480 quad push/pull
Paraleyes: HK 3.0 LT
Zamoldac: HK Rev3.0 LT
Villosa:Hk 3.0 755 LT Using Feser 120 and 240mm
*HeatKiller GPU*
caliga4221: HeatKiller x2 GTX 295: BlackIce GTX 360
coltsrock:Heatkiller GPU X3
Biggu: heatkiller GPU X2
undertheradar: HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ³ GTX58

Angrybutcher : heatkiller x 2 gpu blocks for gtx570

Mazda6i07  : Heat killer gpu for the 6870
*HK 3.0 NP*
Charles1: HK 3.0 NP

*White HK*








Juggalo23451


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## ltulod

here is mine.


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## jdomingo85

And me!! Im 3rd.. Yeeepeeee!!


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## richardbb85

just got this, IN!!!!

will post pic in a min


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## Juggalo23451

Welcome all to the Club







and *thank you* for joining


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## caliga4221

Got 3, see Obsidian7 in sig.
1x HK 3.0 LT
2x HK GPU-x2 295
edit: other gpu still waiting for the actual card to show up.


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *caliga4221* 
Got 3, see Obsidian7 in sig.
1x HK 3.0 LT
2x HK GPU-x2 295

where are the pics?


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## jeffries7

So after think over watercooling last week (many thanks juggalo) i'm getting my heatkiller









I'll be ordering it on monday, i'll post pics when i get it


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## r11

I'm in. Well at least I will be on monday









performance-pc's has them now do you don't have to shop overseas.


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## Halciet

Yo.


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## justarealguy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Halciet* 
Yo.










Wow that's a clean looking case.

Is that soudproofing I see?


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Halciet* 
Yo.










make sure to click the link above to join so u will be on the list


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## Halciet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *justarealguy* 
Wow that's a clean looking case.

Is that soudproofing I see?

It is indeed; just a little bit. I used it more as antivibration between metal parts like the motherboard tray and the pump. I modified the case a bit, so my top and sides all have black mesh windows for more air flow, to keep everything cool.

Lemme see if I have a pic of that:










Jugg, sorry; I clicked the link and fixed it


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## _AKIMbO_

Here are some pics of my brand new Heatkiller.


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## BDW88

Plated with a DIY kit


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## Juggalo23451

*Nice make sure to spread the word







*


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## richardbb85

are washers important with the backplate?

can it cause a grounding issue if i don't have enough? i have a washer placed between mobo and the bottom, no washer on top.


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## equetefue

Juggalo add me in there man... Redoing the whole sig rig on a TJ07 so i'll post some pics when done...

BTW whoever is thinking of getting the HK 3.0.... DO IT !!! temps are awesome on my setup


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## Zippit

mine:


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## Jason4i7

As the voting only has a few more hours left, it looks as though Im going to be joining this group. Ill know for sure later today, and then go from there. Kinda wanted to reserve my spot sort to speak.


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## Peace11uehman

heres mine, not even in my pc yet, waiting for my other stuff to arrive


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## Shrimpykins

Let's see if I can dig up a pic for you guys


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


Let's see if I can dig up a pic for you guys


any luck??


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## octopus13

These are beautiful. I hope to be joining you very soon.


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## Jason4i7

Mine is ordered and got put in the mail today. It should be here by Friday/Saturday. Ill post pics as soon as it shows up. I cant wait, Im so excited.


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:



Originally Posted by *octopus13*


These are beautiful. I hope to be joining you very soon.


That great I have added a list suggested by Jason.Thanks Jason for getting the info together


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## motoray

Howdy my new 3.0


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *motoray* 
Howdy my new 3.0

do u have a work log all


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## motoray

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ml#post6400582


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## Jason4i7

Its a little different then what I sent you. Where is the title? and one of the work logs extended into the name on zipit, and my work log is gone. What happened? I dont mind the color changes, but some of the work is missing.


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
Its a little different then what I sent you. Where is the title? and one of the work logs extended into the name on zipit, and my work log is gone. What happened? I dont mind the color changes, but some of the work is missing.

it shold be there


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## motoray

is that sufficient?


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451* 
it shold be there


Well thats closer. And thank you for fixing the work long. Zipits name still needs to be fixed. There is still no title, and the club link should be centered.


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## doat

I might get a heat killer rev3.0 debating on it.


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
I might get a heat killer rev3.0 debating on it.

Dont debate, do it. I wasted a week debating, and you know what I found out, I LOST A WEEK.







I could had it already. Its that good a block.









EDIT: I just double checked zipits name on my list, that was me, just cut her name out, and move it to the front of the url to unhighlight it from the worklog.


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## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
Dont debate, do it. I wasted a week debating, and you know what I found out, I LOST A WEEK.







I could had it already. Its that good a block.









EDIT: I just double checked zipits name on my list, that was me, just cut her name out, and move it to the front of the url to unhighlight it from the worklog.

Well right now i have $100 i could buy the block and backplate or just use the backplate i already have on my mobo when i used my xiggy heatsink, would that fit?


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
Well right now i have $100 i could buy the block and backplate or just use the backplate i already have on my mobo when i used my xiggy heatsink, would that fit?

There has been debate about it. From what I gather you might be able to. As the backing plate for the xiggy i think is m4 and the HeatKiller is also 4m. Dont quote me, but thats what I found out. I have the crossbow from xiggy but got the backing plate for the Heatkiller any ways. Just hold off on the backing plate, if it doesnt work, get one from Sidewinder web site, they are $7.70 right now. and in stock.


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## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
There has been debate about it. From what I gather you might be able to. As the backing plate for the xiggy i think is m4 and the HeatKiller is also 4m. Dont quote me, but thats what I found out. I have the crossbow from xiggy but got the backing plate for the Heatkiller any ways. Just hold off on the backing plate, if it doesnt work, get one from Sidewinder web site, they are $7.70 right now. and in stock.

well if the backplate is for lga 775 and the water block is 775 then shouldnt all 775 plates fit with all 775 blocks or heatsinks?

Hey Juggalo what happened to your first post?


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
well if the backplate is for lga 775 and the water block is 775 then shouldnt all 775 plates fit with all 775 blocks or heatsinks?

Hey Juggalo what happened to your first post?

Not all holes on backing plates are the same.

With the OP, we are trying to fix it, there were some issues with some of the links. Will be fixed shortly.


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## nafljhy

erh.. i'm not too sure what you mean by holes on backing plates..

but if its the mounting holes... they are all the same no matter what.. of course they have to be corresponding mounting.. ie 775 and 775.

but if you're talking about say.. how some backplates have a hole for the cpu socket and some don't like the HK backplates (X form) then yea, not all of them are the same.

EDIT: ok, i read the previous post up... thats screw size.. not mounting holes persay.. that depends on manufacturers.... some use 6-32 threading and others use metric M4. the mounting holes will fit either one but the actual backplate will have a certain kind of threading.


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## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
Not all holes on backing plates are the same.

With the OP, we are trying to fix it, there were some issues with some of the links. Will be fixed shortly.

How are they all not the same?


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *doat* 
How are they all not the same?

some are 6/32 thread and some are m4 thread.


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## Zero4549

Heatkiller 3.0 Cu on a loop with a Black Ice GTX II 3x120mm and a Magicool Elegant 2x120mm rad, 1/2 inch ID tubing, Feser One coolant, Danger Den GTX 295 waterblock, Laing DDC-3.2 pump + xspc res top.

Sorry bout no pics, dunno how to get them to not be fricken huge, links below.

Work Log

Pics:

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...8197435248.jpg

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...e-dscn0964.jpg

http://www.overclock.net/attachments...e-dscn0974.jpg


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zero4549* 
Heatkiller 3.0 Cu

link with mod log pls


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## Jason4i7

I think the OP turned out pretty nicely. GJ juggalo23451.


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## doat

Right now i am using my backplate for my xiggy DK with my Dtek fusion V1 and it works well so im thinking it would work with the heatkiller.


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## equetefue

Here's my work log so far...

My HK 3.0 is currently in use in my system. Just transfering the guts over to new case.

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...n-btx-mod.html


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## Xandax

Heatkiller 775 Rev 3.0
XSPC 480


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## killerhz

all right-I am an air cooler *but*, seeing this thread has changed me. can someone list parts around this "heat killer" to cool my CPU and chipset? i hate to thread steal but want someone who own this to help me out.


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killerhz* 
all right-I am an air cooler *but*, seeing this thread has changed me. can someone list parts around this "heat killer" to cool my CPU and chipset? i hate to thread steal but want someone who own this to help me out.

I will send u a pm


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xandax* 
Heatkiller 775 Rev 3.0
XSPC 480


















Damn Thats sexy, I qoute it so its posted twice.







Also, really nice camera.


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## mocha989

definitly be joining this or the official one when it comes. I'm getting the Heatkiller soon.


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## oblivion.sky

here's mineeeeeeee


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## Xandax

Forgot my build log to link on the 1st page...

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...r-cooling.html


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## Juggalo23451

updated


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## oblivion.sky

linky to my build log is on my sig... thanks!


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky* 
linky to my build log is on my sig... thanks!

updated


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## motoray

On the list on the front page next to the person and block should throw up what cpu so we can see the diversity of cpu's and maybe even load temps what ya think of that?


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *motoray* 
On the list on the front page next to the person and block should throw up what cpu so we can see the diversity of cpu's and maybe even load temps what ya think of that?

that is why we have links going your mod log, also you sig if you want to post you temps and etc in your mod log that is fine. Plus it will look crowed with all that info as well.


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## doat

nvm


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## motoray

hey i was just throwin it out there dont gotta get all crazy


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## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *motoray* 
hey i was just throwin it out there dont gotta get all crazy

lol it was a joke


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## Jason4i7

Hey doat, when you coming over to the HK side? Did you order it yet or not?


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## doat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


Hey doat, when you coming over to the HK side? Did you order it yet or not?


decided to order the EK-Supreme LT Acetal water block, supports 775 and 1366 in case i upgrade to i7 also $30 cheaper than HK for the same temps.


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## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *doat*


decided to order the EK-Supreme LT Acetal water block, supports 775 and 1366 in case i upgrade to i7 also $30 cheaper than HK for the same temps.


Cool. I can understand upgrade ability. The HK mount setup is easy to change. The block your getting is nice also. What are you going to be spending the extra $30 on?


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## doat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


Cool. I can understand upgrade ability. The HK mount setup is easy to change. The block your getting is nice also. What are you going to be spending the extra $30 on?


i dont know, i was thinking of doing a window mod on my CM 690 so it would be easier to check for leaks.


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## Shrimpykins

Here is everything on a torture bench... Case is coming today

Link to my work log: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...machine-3.html using a black ice gtx 480


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins* 





Here is everything on a torture bench... Case is coming today

Link to my work log: http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...machine-3.html

I've seen this video before. Looking good. What have you done about your res? All those bubbles are going to end up causing you trouble. You need either a diffuser if you dont want it completely full, or fill it all the way up. Its important you dont let bubbles circulate through out the loop. Air in the pump can cause pressure problems as air is compressible and is going to cause cavitation ( spinning water with less flow ), and also those bubbles will end up in your radiator and can cause hot spots. You'll be fighting to keep temps down.


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## Shrimpykins

In the works of fashioning a small plug for the cap so I can fill it all the way up.


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## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


In the works of fashioning a small plug for the cap so I can fill it all the way up.


I have the bitspower single bay res, threw one of my compression barbs ontop, put on a 6 inch cut of tubbing and ran it till all the bubbles where gone. Took about 4 hours. But the bitspower res, has a dropped center, so the air pockets are a pain. But when it was done, I was so nice and quiet. I loved it. I then threw a plug on top of the tubbing to cap it off. Im making a custom fill port on top for my new addition. So I dont have to constantly take the res out for any reason.


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## Shrimpykins

Kinda different than what I am referring to. The cap for the resevoir isn't solid. It's has a cutout in the middle of it so when I put the cap on, no matter how much I fill the res, there is still an air pocket in the top of the res. This is trouble so I am going to try and cut a rubber plug to plug it up with.


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins* 
Kinda different than what I am referring to. The cap for the resevoir isn't solid. It's has a cutout in the middle of it so when I put the cap on, no matter how much I fill the res, there is still an air pocket in the top of the res. This is trouble so I am going to try and cut a rubber plug to plug it up with.

I think we talked about this before. Where yours doesnt have a "fillport" on top. I think we talked about you drilling a hole and threading it. That may be your best bet. its pretty simple and could be done for under $10 if you already have a drill.


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## Jason4i7

I went down to the mail and guess what was there.










































Thats right. MY HEATKILLER!!!!! Damn, this thing is heavy. Ill post pics as soon as I get switched over to vista to take them off my phone.

EDIT: The camera loves you


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## //.DK

in


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## Juggalo23451

updated. pls *include mod logs* and what *RAD* you are using


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## Jason4i7

As a side note: Compression barbs dont fit on the HeatKiller. Not two standard compression barbs anyhow. Im going to need a riser or something. Im using Koolance 1/2''in 5/8'' od compression fittings and they hit. Any ideas?


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## doat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
As a side note: Compression barbs dont fit on the HeatKiller. Not two standard compression barbs anyhow. Im going to need a riser or something. Im using Koolance 1/2''in 5/8'' od compression fittings and they hit. Any ideas?

What are the benefits of using compression fittings? i dont see anything wrong with just putting the tubes around the barbs and clamp it with zipties or a hose clamp.


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## Jason4i7

Its convenience. Does a car need power windows? No, but its nice. I just dont like the look of clamps IMO, and I like the security the compression fittings give me. Im not saying regular barbs are bad, Im going to have to use the DD fat boys until I get this situation fixed, but they are just a nice touch IMO.

Now, ask those that have used regular barbs, and moved on to compression fittings which they prefer... Most wont go back. They are reusable and reliable.


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## caliga4221

I used 2 Dual Rotary 45s from bitspower to get them pointed in the right direction and elevated enough to use my compression barbs.


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## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *caliga4221* 
I used 2 Dual Rotary 45s from bitspower to get them pointed in the right direction and elevated enough to use my compression barbs.

So basically they are lifters pointed away from each other with ends that accept threads?


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## Jason4i7

Im thinking these will work. This should help fix the issue for those wanting to use compression fittings on their HeatKiller.

Koolance Fitting Single, Swiveling 45-Degree


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## [email protected]

can anyone tell me which hole to pump the water in to and which to pull/suck it out again.
im starting to worrie that i've gotten it all backwards :lol: ..will the temps suffer if
doing that?..so is that push water into the 'clear' hole and pulling out through the one with the black wire inside..i believe that's the way i did it


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## Jason4i7

The middle one is the inlet, the bottom one one is the exit.


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## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


The middle one is the inlet, the bottom one one is the exit.


Hey thanx a lot mate..hard to guess wenn it doesnt even show on the small pamplet inside of the box it's shipped in. i guess i could have used google..but just needed a straight answer.


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## Jason4i7

thats the point of this club, to help each other out. You a heatkiller user, and I want you to stay that way. We help each other and through our work we prosper. ( only a few drinks tonight







)


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## motoray

ya it took me a few min to think it thru. Also the proper torque instructions was confusing as hell.


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## bumsoil

Heatkiller LT, MCR 320 + MCR 120.

will upload pics later.


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## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bumsoil* 
Heatkiller LT, MCR 320 + MCR 120.

will upload pics later.

updated. mod log pls


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## .::Himeh::.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *//.DK*


in











Dude why didnt you use the fill port on the HAF 932???


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## 7hm

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...eatkiller.html

HeatKiller 3.0 
Black Ice GTX 360


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## Juggalo23451

updated info


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## equetefue




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## Juggalo23451

I saw your log equetefue and updated it


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## Jason4i7

How about some temp reports? Not for adding it to the OP, but just temp vs ambient numbers. Post like this.

*Ambient : 
Idle :
Load :
Pump :
Radiator :
Fans : 
Extras in loop : *

( For extras, res, t-lines, and flow meters are not required. More for other blocks, gfx blocks or motherboard blocks w/or w/o mosfets. )


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## Foooman

This thing is beautiful.


























Radiator is a GTX360. I don't have a mod log.


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## [email protected]

how do i know wenn the heatkiller is fastened enough? also how important is the backplate?


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## jaded25

I love this block so far


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## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
how do i know wenn the heatkiller is fastened enough? also how important is the backplate?

A backplate or some sort of mount for the stand-off is necessary, though not necesssarily is the HK backplate necessary, although it is very nice. The backplate will help keep the motherboard from flexing and allow you to apply more pressure to the block for a much better contact with the IHS. What I do is install the backplate with the hex stand-offs and tighten those down pretty good, be careful not to strip the backplate out though, or the stand-offs for that matter. You want them to be tight so they don't unscrew when you are unscrewing the HK 3.0 from them. After you have the backplate installed then you can install the HK 3.0 block. I hand tighten them down going in a criss cross pattern.

Think of these numbers as the bolt pattern the HK 3.0 uses.

1__________2

3__________4

First I tighten 1 and 4 down a bit, then 2 and 3, I repeat this until I cannot tighten them by hand anymore... I do this because I used to work in a machine shop and did car maintenance every now and then (as well as doing all my personal car maintenance since I was able to drive). It's kinda like the pattern you would use to tighten the lugs on a wheel. You would typically go every other lug on an odd numbered lug pattern (as in 3, 5, or 7 lugs). It will give you the most even spread of TIM as well as make sure the block is sitting flat on the IHS. I then grab my alan wrench and tighten them down 2-3 full rotations. I like to install the tubing after I have the block installed, just because the tubing can get in the way.


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## Juggalo23451

updated


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## equetefue

I have the backplate as is awesome. Like the fellow poster said. Follow a pattern like when you tighting lug nuts on your car till is bolted down.


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## Shrimpykins

I am using a Black Ice GTX 480 rad and MCP 355 pump with the XSPC top if you wanted to add that to the first post.


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## [email protected]

thank you +1-rep







I thought that i had them tightened enough before. my temps are still worse than air cooling lol







and my northbridge is really heating up now.

will try to re-mount again tonight i think just wierd to get over 70c (sometimes 80c) on water. normal should be like 50 on load right (prime95)?

i have just bought a new radiator in the hopes of it curing the bad temps. but i guess not


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## Shrimpykins

It depends on the amount of voltage and the clock speed you are trying to reach. Higher clocks and more voltage = more heat, especially with quad cores. What components are you using in your system? Pump, rad, fans, TIM.


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## [email protected]

Q9650 @ 4.3ghz, 1.4v..wc components: Heatkiller 3.0 (tim = mx-2), XSPC RX360,
MCP655, 5*SFF21E @ 400-600 rpm, 3 add. in the front (1 is for hdd cooling)
@ 5v, 1 in the back @ 5v. 200mm @5v at the side of my cosmos s.

but still hotter than hell









it's the rx360 best for low fan setup so shouldnt really need 1000 rpm.
LLC is giving me oc stability are also heating up for about 6-9c..but
it's still to much even if u subtract those degrees. the nb is close to 80c
sometimes.


----------



## Shrimpykins

That's a pretty high clock on a quad core, I would put some fans that are a tiny bit more powerful on the rad ~1200 rpm, you should be getting temps of about 60C for load IMO, I may be off, never watercooled a quad core, only air.


----------



## [email protected]

all my fans are 1200 rpm..just hate running them at maximum..to loud for me..anyway have tried it didnt make any difference.

will try to remount again if that doesnt work i guess i'll just have to live with my suck as hot computer


----------



## Shrimpykins

If the remount doesn't work then make sure your fans aren't using air from inside the PC to cool the radiator. Also, don't use too much TIM.. I have seen this happen as well.. people load it up and it actually causes higher temps. Put a dab about the size of a grain of rice in the middle of the CPU and either spread it out with a razor blade or let the waterblock compress it and naturally spread it.


----------



## [email protected]

stock idle:


load stock (prime95 10min.):


definitely seem like they'r to high


----------



## jeffries7

Sign me up


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


stock idle:


load stock (prime95 10min.):


definitely seem like they'r to high











Those temps look fine to me. For load, on an oc'd quad... 57-63 is not bad at all.


----------



## [email protected]

it's not oc'ed at all at those screenshots m8. thats why im worried


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


it's not oc'ed at all at those screenshots m8. thats why im worried










Then why does your sig say that it is? You might want to change it so people wont think it is









Now as for temps, Im not sure. They do seem high for a stock clocked Q9650. When can you post some pics of the system? I would like to see the actual routing of the loop just to know what it looks like. Some times seeing it can identify something you might overlook.


----------



## [email protected]

yes sorry about that. i just set the bios at default to prove a point..my watercooling isnt working as it should. also my nb is getting very hot (close to 80cwenn ocing) so im not feeling 100% secure at oc speeds.

my mobo has a profile saving feature so i only need to load the new setting wenn needed. maybe i took the bios shift a little lightly then im sorry. although i did both write 'stock' at the post and showed the clock speed of my cpu.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


Then why does your sig say that it is? You might want to change it so people wont think it is









Now as for temps, Im not sure. They do seem high for a stock clocked Q9650. When can you post some pics of the system? I would like to see the actual routing of the loop just to know what it looks like. Some times seeing it can identify something you might overlook.


----------



## Jason4i7

Yeah you did. Im just kinda slow today I guess. Havent been getting much sleep lately. Not sure why. I wish I could think of something, but my brain just isnt working. I think the hamster died, or is on strike. I hope we can get this figured out, Im just not sure what to tell you right now. Ill be back later after a nap, see if anything comes to mind.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


yes sorry about that. i just set the bios at default to prove a point..my watercooling isnt working as it should. also my nb is getting very hot (close to 80cwenn ocing) so im not feeling 100% secure at oc speeds.

my mobo has a profile saving feature so i only need to load the new setting wenn needed. maybe i took the bios shift a little lightly then im sorry. although *i did both write 'stock' at the post* and showed the clock speed of my cpu.


----------



## gergregg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[email protected]* 
stock idle:


load stock (prime95 10min.):


definitely seem like they'r to high









What is your ambient temp in the room?


----------



## jaded25

Those are some pretty high temps for just stock. Did you try reseating the block? Do you also have the tubing leading to the right inlet and outlet?

Oh and I also forgot to include what model my block and radiator I'm using, I got a Heatkiller 3.0 and the radiator is an XSPC 360


----------



## Shrimpykins

SpaceApe, is your loop currently: Pump > Rad > Block > Res > Pump?

Also, I assume you have a HK 3.0 since this is the club for it so is your water going in the middle hole and coming out the bottom one? I do believe the way the water runs inside can make a difference. Even if it can't you might as well give it a try to see if it makes a difference. Basically you push water into the block from the middle hole (the one with the small black metal piece inside it) and it gets pushed out through the other hole.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaded25*


Those are some pretty high temps for just stock. Did you try reseating the block? Do you also have the tubing leading to the right inlet and outlet?

Oh and I also forgot to include what model my block and radiator I'm using, I got a Heatkiller 3.0 and the radiator is an XSPC 360



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


SpaceApe, is your loop currently: Pump > Rad > Block > Res > Pump?

Also, I assume you have a HK 3.0 since this is the club for it so is your water going in the middle hole and coming out the bottom one? I do believe the way the water runs inside can make a difference. Even if it can't you might as well give it a try to see if it makes a difference. Basically you push water into the block from the middle hole (the one with the small black metal piece inside it) and it gets pushed out through the other hole.


Thanks for the help guys, but yes. He knows. I have already gone over this with him. We talked about it in a PM. Its not the routing of the tubing to the block, but thank you for trying to help.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Sounds like it has been wittled down to a reseating issue or perhaps a pump issue... Is it a variable speed pump and do you have it turned down? Other than that I can't think of anything.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


Sounds like it has been wittled down to a reseating issue or perhaps a pump issue... Is it a variable speed pump and do you have it turned down? Other than that I can't think of anything.


Its is a variable, and it is at setting 4. It has also been run at level 5 without a change in temps. Space and I have been chatting about this for about a week now. I know hes offline, but I know the answers to most of the questions. Im not sure how many times he's reseated, but know its been done, I think maybe once. He still needs to post some pics, as sometimes pics will show something that you wouldn't otherwise notice through dialogue.


----------



## [email protected]

sorry guys been busy trying to fix my rampage after an addition to my wc-loop.
now it wont start..pretty sure it died..damn just got the loop perfect








but im pretty used to damaging hardware by now lol









will try an rma or buy a new mobo if that doesnt work








guess i'll be more carefull with water the next time









thanx all


----------



## equetefue

Here you go Juggalo....

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...n-btx-mod.html


----------



## sailerboy

Could i join? My watercooling is here, but the missing of 2 barbs destructs my entire watercooling venture till friday. I have a heatkiller+xspc rx360 radiator.


----------



## sdla4ever

just wondering if any of you have done benchs going between a apogee GTZ to a heatkiller??

if so id love to see these!!


----------



## c5pilot

My HK 3.0 LT is in the mail. Hope to have it installed by weeks end.


----------



## Juggalo23451

This club is now Official


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
just wondering if any of you have done benchs going between a apogee GTZ to a heatkiller??

if so id love to see these!!

Some on has a whole bunch of water blocks and comparing them here is the link
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...blocks-i7.html


----------



## Sinticfury

I have two gpu-x2 gtx285 waterblocks and the gpux sli connector and a heatkiller 3.0 should I get them all nicke plated? to match my black and blue ufo


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinticfury*


I have two gpu-x2 gtx285 waterblocks and the gpux sli connector and a heatkiller 3.0 should I get them all nicke plated? to match my black and blue ufo


you can if you want but I always go for the pure copper ones


----------



## Bullant

Hey guys ,will those heatkillers blocks fit on a AMD cpu?


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bullant* 
Hey guys ,will those heatkillers blocks fit on a AMD cpu?

They make HeatKiller blocks for the AM2-3. Watercool HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 754/939/AM2 CPU Water Block

Also, great job on making the Thread Official. Thats great news.


----------



## nafljhy

i think what disappoints me about HK is that they don't send you all the appropriate mounts.







like the intel one could be done all on one thing.

but other than that they are great blocks.


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
i think what disappoints me about HK is that they don't send you all the appropriate mounts.







like the intel one could be done all on one thing.
but other than that they are great blocks.

what do u mean they send everything needed to mount it. the back plate is optional of course. you could take the 775 mounting plate for example then get the 1366 mounts for it wonder if that would work


----------



## sdla4ever

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451* 
Some on has a whole bunch of water blocks and comparing them here is the link
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...blocks-i7.html

thank you +1


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sdla4ever* 
thank you +1

no problem


----------



## hoth17

how do the load temps compare to the swiftech gtz on a i7 920? I have read that the idle temps are about 4 - 5 lower, but what about load?


----------



## Jason4i7

Testing here. Shows really easily the temps. Enjoy.


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451* 
what do u mean they send everything needed to mount it. the back plate is optional of course. you could take the 775 mounting plate for example then get the 1366 mounts for it wonder if that would work

wait.. so if you get the 1366 mount version, it also comes with AM2/AM3 and the 775 mounts? cause when i look at the etailers, thats not the impression that i get. i get the impression that you need to buy the other types of mounts. and thats what bugs me.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
wait.. so if you get the 1366 mount version, it also comes with AM2/AM3 and the 775 mounts? cause when i look at the etailers, thats not the impression that i get. i get the impression that you need to buy the other types of mounts. and thats what bugs me.

No, only the specific mount you order. Also, to change the mount, you have to take the block apart, they are held in my drop pins.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Thanks for the invit. Will be happy to join the HK CLUB!!
Heat Killer 3.0 & HW Black Ice GTX-360 Radiator.

I dont know how to list the parts in your members list.









By cd69scorp, shot with NIKON D60 at 2009-07-25


----------



## BDW88

285 Gpu block plated by me.


----------



## c5pilot

HK 3.0 LT is installed, I'll be getting my MCR 320 tomorrow.


----------



## cuy50

Sign me up!


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cuy50* 
Sign me up!

As the OP states, please provide info on your system. Block model, Radiator, and a worklog or permalink to a picture. Thank you.


----------



## Zero4549

Just noticed my name on the list doesn't have a link to my log, version, or radiator info:

Original (copper), GTX 360 + Magicool Elegant 240

http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...ml#post5897993

Thanks


----------



## Jason4i7

Just posted pics of my block and finished my loop.


----------



## Lyric

Heatkiller 3.0 CPU Block
bitspower mosfets block + bitspower nb/sb block

here are some pictures, and a link to my first crappy put together work log, lol.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...7-920-haf.html


----------



## octopus13

Just got mine a couple minutes ago. See \\~Project HAFnium~/ in sig.

Its getting cooled by a black ice extreme with 6 3000RPM Ultra Kaze's on it.


----------



## Jason4i7

I like it, that setup should run very well. Let us know how the temps do.

Ambient, idle, load, vcore. Look forward to your results.


----------



## octopus13

Ok, just as soon as freakin primochill ships my res...


----------



## like30ninjas

I'm also looking to buy a HK3.0 LT, does anyone know where they are in stock? I can't seem to find them.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *like30ninjas* 
I'm also looking to buy a HK3.0 LT, does anyone know where they are in stock? I can't seem to find them.

I just looked all over, I also couldn't find it. I could find the CU block but all the LT blocks are out of stock. Best thing to do is to be put on a mailing list. They will tell you when its back in stock. Also, its a way for them to know that someone is looking for it and will help them make a bigger order.


----------



## Lysdexik

YÃ³u had better add me to the list, mine is in the mail!!


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lysdexik* 
YÃ³u had better add me to the list, mine is in the mail!!









You can be, but did you read the OP. Pics, radiator, and worklog/permalink. As soon as it comes in, let us know. We love all the people possible. This block is that nice. I love it personally. Check out my newest posted pics.


----------



## BioHzrd

Add me to the Club Plz !

Question before i install witch is the Inlet & outlet on the Block ?


----------



## Space Pope

Quote:


Originally Posted by *like30ninjas* 
I'm also looking to buy a HK3.0 LT, does anyone know where they are in stock? I can't seem to find them.

You can get the 775 at performance-pcs.com and get the mounting midplate from sidewindercomputers.com, but it'll be quite a bit more expensive.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Space Pope* 
You can get the 775 at performance-pcs.com and get the mounting midplate from sidewindercomputers.com, but it'll be quite a bit more expensive.

Not correct. Sidewinders backing plate is only $7.70, and PPC's is $9.95. Also, the LT block for the i7 is sold out. The 775 block is still there yes, but he has an i7 my friend.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BioHzrd* 
Add me to the Club Plz !

Question before i install witch is the Inlet & outlet on the Block ?

Inlet is the middle barb. If the block is standing upright the inlet is the top barb and the bottom is the outlet.


----------



## like30ninjas

I contacted SideWinder's and PPC's, and they should be getting more in stock by the end of next week, which is perfect because i need to order the second GTX295 block as well


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *like30ninjas* 
I contacted SideWinder's and PPC's, and they should be getting more in stock by the end of next week, which is perfect because i need to order the second GTX295 block as well









Good deal. Post up pics as soon as they come in. We'll be waiting.


----------



## BioHzrd

Git it all set up just cant get it fully bled there a bunch of Froth and im guessing a large pocket of air in my Rad :/ grrrr


----------



## Space Pope

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


Not correct. Sidewinders backing plate is only $7.70, and PPC's is $9.95. Also, the LT block for the i7 is sold out. The 775 block is still there yes, but he has an i7 my friend.


I meant the MID PLATE not the BACK PLATE. Seems like the ran out yesterday though.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hk1366mount.html


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Space Pope* 
I meant the MID PLATE not the BACK PLATE. Seems like the ran out yesterday though.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hk1366mount.html

Yeah, thats to change over a 775 to a 1366, its the hold down that is used in the block it's self. $18 for the two plates is a lot. I wouldn't buy it unless I had a HK 775, and eventually wanted to go to 1366. He already has one, so I would just wait. Its only a week. I guess he could sell the 775 hold down, but that wouldnt be a guarantee.


----------



## Space Pope

Hey guys, I just found some videos on how the heatkiller flows. They look pretty cool.


----------



## motoray

Thats AWESOME!


----------



## USlatin

nice find, Rep+ for sharing


----------



## citat3962

It appears there is a different budget version of the Heatkiller 3.0

It's the LC version and it has an all POM (Acetal) top instead of the part steel part POM top on the LT.

It's cheaper and it comes with barbs from Performance PCs for 49.99.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25213

I picked up one and a backplate for my Q6600 (possibly q9550 soon) today and I am eagerly awaiting it's arrival. Hopefully this does a better job cooling my quad than my current dual core oriented block does. No plans (or budget) to go I7


----------



## like30ninjas

I got an email from SideWinderComputers and Performance-PCs.com, and they both have stock on all heatkiller products as of now! I'm going to pick up another GTX295 block and a HK3.0 LT block from them!


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *citat3962* 
It appears there is a different budget version of the Heatkiller 3.0

It's the LC version and it has an all POM (Acetal) top instead of the part steel part POM top on the LT.

It's cheaper and it comes with barbs from Performance PCs for 49.99.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25213

I picked up one and a backplate for my Q6600 (possibly q9550 soon) today and I am eagerly awaiting it's arrival. Hopefully this does a better job cooling my quad than my current dual core oriented block does. No plans (or budget) to go I7

Has been for a while. There have been three the whole time.

HeatKiller 3.0 CU = Full copper top
HeatKiller 3.0 LT = Acetal top with steel
HeatKiller 3.0 LU = LT minus the steel center


----------



## like30ninjas

Hey guys!
I want to join this club. I currently have a HK GTX295, and I'm going to be ordering a HeatKiller 3.0 LT 1366 block shortly. Pics of my block are here, and my worklog is here.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *like30ninjas* 
Hey guys!
I want to join this club. I currently have a HK GTX295, and I'm going to be ordering a HeatKiller 3.0 LT 1366 block shortly. Pics of my block are here, and my worklog is here.

Look forward to seeing it installed. Nice setup btw. On your push/pull, is it with or without shrouds? What type of fans are you using?


----------



## like30ninjas

i'm using 38mm shrouds, on both sides of my MCR320. I'm using GELID UV 12 fans, which are probably the best fans to exist imho. They're so easy to clean (can take the fan blades apart without a hassle), are extremely UV-reactive, and are relatively cheap too. I bought each for ~$13 CAD. They also come with their own fan controllers, and are pre-sleeved black, which is perfect for my build.


----------



## [email protected]

can i join your club?


----------



## Peace11uehman

Hey Juggalo! Update me!




































My work log is in my sig, theres lots of pictures there. Im still finishing up but everything is up and running!


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Peace11uehman*


Hey Juggalo! Update me!









My work log is in my sig, theres lots of pictures there. Im still finishing up but everything is up and running!










updated


----------



## Juggalo23451

[email protected] said:


> can i join your club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes need mod log link, and join the main heatkiller page as well


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


can i join your club?









yes need mod log link, and join the main heatkiller page as well


fair enough







i'll see what i can do


----------



## Peace11uehman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451* 
updated

Thanks! You have the wrong link though,it links to my system info where there are no pics. All the pictures are in my build log linked below in my sig


----------



## Jason4i7

Your HeatKiller backing plate is facing the wrong way. The words should be facing outwards. Im not sure what kind of effect it has on the performance of the block, but it is backwards for your information.


----------



## whatsthatsmell

my build log [Build Log][pics]1st liquid cooled shopping list.(bought&assembled)

Heatkiller 3.0 1366 cpu waterblock
Feser X-changer 360mm(120.3) radiator
Swiftech mcp655 pump
EK Waterblocks EK-Multioption RES 150 rev.2
Panaflow 120x38mm ultra high speed fans 114.7 CFM @ 2750 RPM, 45.5 dBA (i have these set to 1700 rpm experimenting)
Feser tubing uv black 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD
Petra's ptnuke biocide


----------



## Lysdexik

heatkiller 3.0 & BIGTX360


----------



## Lyric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lyric*


Heatkiller 3.0 CPU Block
bitspower mosfets block + bitspower nb/sb block

here are some pictures, and a link to my first crappy put together work log, lol.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...7-920-haf.html











I've yet to be added, just wondering.


----------



## Jason4i7

Juggalo23451 is the OP, so he will add you when he gets on next. Hes pretty good about it. No worries, youll get added. Nice build btw.


----------



## Xur

heatkiller arrived.



Radiator is XSPC RX360 with Bitspower Compression fittings

Build log (in progress) here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tcs-840-a.html


----------



## Clockadile Dundee

CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 Cu Rev. 3 / 1366 backplate

Mobo: EK-FB 760 full block

Radiator: Behr BMW E36 (92-99 325i,M3 etc.) radiator
560mm*432mm + end tanks, double row aluminum, plastic end tanks with drain plug and thermostat bung, 22 fins per inch.

16" Spal puller fan 1300-2200 cfm.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clockadile Dundee*


CPU: Heatkiller 3.0 Cu Rev. 3 / 1366 backplate

Mobo: EK-FB 760 full block

Radiator: Behr BMW E36 (92-99 325i,M3 etc.) radiator
560mm*432mm + end tanks, double row aluminum, plastic end tanks with drain plug and thermostat bung, 22 fins per inch.

16" Spal puller fan 1300-2200 cfm.


Id like to see pictures of that.


----------



## Clockadile Dundee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


Id like to see pictures of that.


This is a story about why the rig was not assembled long enough to take pictures of it in-action and complete, but I could show the rad. setup, and everything but the mobo till the replacement arrives.

Ok, everything has been disassembled to replace the TIM and install the blocks. I am RMA'ing the mobo because when I removed the stock NB/SB heatsink, the southbridge (ICH10R) chip had a corner broken off, about 1 square mm in size missing; you could see the crystalline structure.
Interestingly, the missing fragment was not stuck in the TIM or in the antistatic bag, so it didn't happen in shipping. It worked just fine as far as I know (I had been air-cooling while waiting for my parts), so I installed the blocks, set everything up and was in denial about what I had seen; I didn't want to give up my new god-like monolith of power.
After a couple days, I realized that with repeated heat cycling and water block re-mountings, cracks could propagate from the damaged area, or it just wouldn't last as long and mayne even hurt performance. Newegg is paying shipping both ways because it's considered "defective".

I can take pics of the radiator with homemade 54mm to G 1/4 1/2" "adapters". They are made from those clear orange pharmaceutical bottles which happen to be the exact same OD as the rad in/out OD, and utilizing a cut section of the old rad. hose.


----------



## afzsom

I'll try to take a camera phone picture today, but I installed a Heatkiller GPU-XÂ² for my GTX-285 a couple days ago.


----------



## Clockadile Dundee

Heatkiller 3.0 Cu & GTX295 co-ops hydrocopper waterblock base









Behr E36 Radiator, 7950gt for scale and "adapter/reducer'

















Fan / automotive fan connector<--what is this connector type called?









If you notice, that connector's plug "blades", one is vertical, the other horizontal if that helps id it.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clockadile Dundee*


Fan / automotive fan connector<--what is this connector type called?









If you notice, that connector's plug "blades", one is vertical, the other horizontal if that helps id it.


What its called isnt important. As your not going to be able to use the connector for anything. Do you have a model number for the fan. That way someone can look up the specs, and see what type of power it draws. Your going to need to find a way to power it. These automotive fans usually have multiple speeds, ranging from ~1000 rpms to as high as ~5000 rpms. Since your going to be running it off of some sort of power supply your going to need to figure out how much amperage its going to draw. You might be able to use a computer psu, but its more then likely going to have to be dedicated. Send info on the fan and we will go from there.

On a second thought, your going to need to also rethink your reducer for your radiator. Is that a barb wrapped in pluming tape? Its kinda hard to tell. Im not sure if thats going to be strong enough to hold pressure.


----------



## BioHzrd

Worth while lapping a Heatkiller ??


----------



## OC Me

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BioHzrd*


Worth while lapping a Heatkiller ??


HESmelaugh tried lapping the HK 3.0, and that raised temps by 1.3 degrees. His advice: don't do it.

The copper base on my LT is slightly discolored, but I'll never see it anyway.


----------



## Shrimpykins

Lapped mine and saw temps drop. Just make sure you remove the contact plate BEFORE lapping.


----------



## Clockadile Dundee

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
What its called isnt important. As your not going to be able to use the connector for anything. Do you have a model number for the fan. That way someone can look up the specs, and see what type of power it draws. Your going to need to find a way to power it. These automotive fans usually have multiple speeds, ranging from ~1000 rpms to as high as ~5000 rpms. Since your going to be running it off of some sort of power supply your going to need to figure out how much amperage its going to draw. You might be able to use a computer psu, but its more then likely going to have to be dedicated. Send info on the fan and we will go from there.

On a second thought, your going to need to also rethink your reducer for your radiator. Is that a barb wrapped in pluming tape? Its kinda hard to tell. Im not sure if thats going to be strong enough to hold pressure.

It is called a va18-ap10/c-41a 12v low profile puller. It has a waterproof motor & and is balanced like a wheel, with a little weight. I think at 2200cfm you need 24v; 1330 at 13v , 8.5a , 7.5psi static pressure.
The spec sheet pdf:
http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30100400_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
At 13v 15psi-0cfm-8a, 7.5psi-1330cfm-8.5a, 0psi-2200cfm-7.5a

The power supply is an Antec Truepower 2.0 550w. Dual 12v rails 19a max each, 36a combined total, 530watt combined total.
Can I just splice it into the one of the 12v rails?
I also have a D5 running on this, but no other fans, I have a 10" Honeywell normal "table" fan, which seems to have very high static pressure pointed at the rad on the wall socket. Hottest core on the 920 d0 is 47c at 3.6GHz so it was fine for the moment.

The plumbers tape is over rtv sealant which had a small weeping leak, it stopped it. I have already been using it, it works fine for the moment, but it needs to be improved upon greatly, yes.

Edit: The highest _indicated_ temperature on any one core was 47c at 3.6 GHz. If there is anything that the "Truth about voltages & TjMax" thread, it's that an indicated temp of 47c can only be considered "under 50c" according to Intel, so it could be even cooler, but _probably_ not much warmer imo.


----------



## Clockadile Dundee

I am building a radbox for this fan now.


----------



## Plasma

Count me into the club =)










Heatkiller 3.0 + GTX 360


----------



## Clockadile Dundee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Plasma*


Count me into the club =)

Heatkiller 3.0 + GTX 360


Why is the SS plate, the cheese in the copper sandwich, a different pattern than other 3.0 blocks I have seen.


----------



## OC Me

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Clockadile Dundee*


Why is the SS plate, the cheese in the copper sandwich, a different pattern than other 3.0 blocks I have seen.


That Heatkiller was designed for an AMD socket 754/939/AM2 motherboard rather than an Intel one.


----------



## Plasma

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OC Me* 
That Heatkiller was designed for an AMD socket 754/939/AM2 motherboard rather than an Intel one.

I would have gotten the other one but didn't for obvious reasons. Sadly I did not know of the superiority of Intel quads at the time of cpu purchase. I assumed that as usual AMD was a step ahead, boy was I living in the past.


----------



## Vecte

Count me in!









Sadly, I messed up my reservoir when I was trying to move some stuff around. I screwed the threads on the top barb, and the threads on the res up. Basically, it is stripped out, and leaks very very slowly. I ordered a new res, and it should be here before the weekend!


----------



## BlackHoleSun

Count me in with an LT AM2! One question, since my CPU is monolithic Quad, should I remove the mid plate or leave it in?


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vecte*


Count me in!









Sadly, I messed up my reservoir when I was trying to move some stuff around. I screwed the threads on the top barb, and the threads on the res up. Basically, it is stripped out, and leaks very very slowly. I ordered a new res, and it should be here before the weekend!


What up from LA, I live in baton rouge.


----------



## whatsthatsmell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vecte*


Count me in!









Sadly, I messed up my reservoir when I was trying to move some stuff around. I screwed the threads on the top barb, and the threads on the res up. Basically, it is stripped out, and leaks very very slowly. I ordered a new res, and it should be here before the weekend!


stripped threads? try some http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape
supposed to use it anyway









my res leaked slow too until i figured it was caused by the res mount clip too tight and mishaping the joining threads of the cylinder and bottom of res.


----------



## wierdo124

Heatkiller vs Delta v3 vs Apogee GTZ


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wierdo124*


Heatkiller vs Delta v3 vs Apogee GTZ


What are you talking about? HeatKiller of course.


----------



## Zamoldac

*HK* FTW !!!









Cpu -HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 LT
Gpu(s) - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² 3870-X2


----------



## afzsom

Finally got around to taking a picture of my block...got so distracted by starting at it.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *afzsom*


Finally got around to taking a picture of my block...got so distracted by starting at it.










Thats a sexy freaking block. I wish I had the money to build a second loop and add in my 285 with a HeatKiller gpu block. That's possibly my next goal. Not sure though. Either way, sexy block.


----------



## Vecte

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*


What up from LA, I live in baton rouge.


Word. I work in Baton Rouge by the Baton Rouge General on Florida.


----------



## M4DM4N

well add me up. HK 3.0 LT


----------



## Zamoldac

HK love again


----------



## Vecte

Will any of those GPU Heatkillers fit on a 275 GTX?


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zamoldac* 
HK love again

Some shrouds on that radiator would do great. Or if thats too tall for you, switch to some 120x38mm fans. The extra help can improve your loop. Especially with your GFX card and cpu in the same loop.


----------



## Zamoldac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jason4i7*


Some shrouds on that radiator would do great. Or if thats too tall for you, switch to some 120x38mm fans. The extra help can improve your loop. Especially with your GFX card and cpu in the same loop.


i know







i will add a 120 rad between the cpu and gpu blocks ( the 120 version of what i currently have a MagiCool XTREME single) and see how that will improve my temps.


----------



## BlackHoleSun

So does anybody know if I should run that mid plate or not?

Also does Heatkiller have a full cover block for the 4870x2?


----------



## Wolf_uk

Hi Guys

I need some advise, i have got a bfg gtx 260 OC, i want to watercool it, any idea's on Blocks?

I would really like to get a Heatkiller one, but i am not sure which one is the right one to get.

Any help would be much appreciated








Cheers


----------



## x9999

Here's mine


----------



## like30ninjas

hey hey hey
here's my pic of proof.

Waterblocks:
Heatkiller GPU-XÂ² GTX295 (x2)
Heatkiller 3.0 LT 1366


----------



## GeforceGTS

Just got my Heatkiller LT installed









No pics right now as the rents are on holiday and took the camera









Here is my temps on first boot up running LinX though


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oblivion.sky*


here's mineeeeeeee



















Where did you get your heatkiller and that other plate that's running from your northbridge to your southbridge? I have a buddy in Australia that wants one.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Just added to my Heatkiller family!!









By cd69scorp, shot with HP PhotoSmart 618 (V1.10) at 2009-09-07









By cd69scorp, shot with HP PhotoSmart 618 (V1.10) at 2009-09-07


----------



## Quantum Man

I'd like to get a HK 3.0 and wanted to know if 2 regular Bitspower compression fittings, 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD, fit on it. Or will I need angled fittings in order to fit?


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Quantum Man* 
I'd like to get a HK 3.0 and wanted to know if 2 regular Bitspower compression fittings, 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD, fit on it. Or will I need angled fittings in order to fit?

you will need to get angled fitting


----------



## Quantum Man

Well I pulled the trigger on a HK 3.0 so I'll be joining your ranks soon.


----------



## nicky




----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nicky*






























What the.....

That looks like it should be in my house. Ill give you the address and you can go ahead and mail them to me.


----------



## jpm804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Quantum Man* 
I'd like to get a HK 3.0 and wanted to know if 2 regular Bitspower compression fittings, 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD, fit on it. Or will I need angled fittings in order to fit?

You can run 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD compression fittings on HK without angled fittings. I used TFC compression fittings but that shouldnt be that different in size for the BP's I think.


----------



## gig

Add me please, link to pics. 
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...loop-done.html


----------



## CompanionCube

Quick question:

what are your thoughts on lapping the HeatKiller 3.0? I'm getting this weird spread on my i7 920 temps, and was wondering if lapping would help. Core0 and 2 are always 5-8C warmer than Core1 and 3.

My i7 is already lapped and shiny


----------



## Space Pope

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CompanionCube*


Quick question:

what are your thoughts on lapping the HeatKiller 3.0? I'm getting this weird spread on my i7 920 temps, and was wondering if lapping would help. Core0 and 2 are always 5-8C warmer than Core1 and 3.

My i7 is already lapped and shiny










Don't lap it. HESmelaugh tried to lap it, and it didn't really give him any gains.


----------



## tom.slick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CompanionCube*


Quick question:

I'm getting this weird spread on my i7 920 temps, and was wondering if lapping would help. Core0 and 2 are always 5-8C warmer than Core1 and 3.


That's common, I've seen it a lot of different I7's


----------



## Jason4i7

Are the temp differences from one side of the cpu to the other, or different corners?


----------



## tom.slick

never thought about it, how are the cores arranged in the chip? I just know core 0 and core 2 are hotter then core 1 and 3
I idle at 46c on cores 0 and 2 and 42c on 1 and 3, load temps vary more, core 0 is the hottest and core 3 the coolest, and this seems to be par for the I7, cores 0,2 hot cores 1,3 hot but not as hot. I just finished 20 passes of linx and core 0 maxed at 86c and core 3 maxed at 79c. A 7c difference is close to what I see at any clock speed and I have seen this from lots of others too.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hmm, finaly i found this lol

herse mine:
the worklog









grtz Bassie


----------



## MIGhunter

anyone using a Heatkiller on a Kuma 7750 BE chip?


----------



## motoray

Hey juggalo Im already in the HK club with my 3.0 But can i get the link under my name changed to my new build








http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ml#post7122662


----------



## N2Gaming

Is a heat killer the best cpu block and if so what would be second best GTZ???

I'm gonna be going H2O some day and I'd like to get the best performance for my monies.

Thanks,


----------



## Juggalo23451

updated


----------



## skkhai

Can I join with this? It's not mounted yet, but will be soon







!

Worklog: http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-wo...c-300-box.html


----------



## The viking

Do you guys include owners of the Heatkiller 4870x2 waterblock? will be getting mine in the mail with a 3.0 LC soon


----------



## Biggu

i just got my heatkiller GPU X2 for my GTX260, Does anyone know which one is the inlet and which is the outlet?










Is it the one the barb is in or is it the next one over? or does it even matter?


----------



## cooper_inc1

I'm killing some heat now. This heat don't know what hit it.


----------



## jimibgood

My professional masseuse wears gloves like [email protected]!


----------



## cooper_inc1

My grandma does dialysis so I got boxes and boxes of them







!


----------



## mr.derp

What do you wear those all day or something? lol


----------



## cooper_inc1

Copper tarnishes very easily from finger oil, so I wear them only when handling my heatsink.. so aka.. today..

And of course I have to wear them when helping my grandma with dialysis.


----------



## Biggu

You can add me to the list!
Biggu HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² G200 Feaser X-Changer Dual 120mm Xtreme Performance Radiator

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...U/IMG_3030.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...U/IMG_3029.jpg


----------



## jimibgood

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1* 
Copper tarnishes very easily from finger oil, so I wear them only when handling my heatsink.. so aka.. today..

And of course I have to wear them when helping my grandma with dialysis.


My heatkiller 3.0 went on so fast I think I did not touch it!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hey guys, i wonder, how many are using that little thing for the quad cores?
cause i was afraid it would go with the flow and get into my pump or something like that.. But everest says all my cores have the exact same temp, and coretemp only shows 1 temp...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimibgood*


My heatkiller 3.0 went on so fast I think I did not touch it!


























i would like to see that happen


----------



## _AKIMbO_

I use the quadcore insert and it hasn't been flushed away into my pump yet.


----------



## jimibgood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cooper_inc1*


My grandma does dialysis so I got boxes and boxes of them







!



She didn't tell you... they were used gloves not new!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


I use the quadcore insert and it hasn't been flushed away into my pump yet.


but do you see any temp difference between the cores?


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
but do you see any temp difference between the cores?

Actually I do. The temperature spread between my hottest and coolest core is about 3-4C. My cores ran with a similar temperature spread when I was running on just air though. Plus, I haven't run the HK 3.0cu without the quadcore insert so I can't tell you exactly how much the quadcore insert affected my temperatures. Sorry if this post didn't really help you out that much...all I can tell you is that the insert is secured into my HK and hasn't been washed away by the pump.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


Actually I do. The temperature spread between my hottest and coolest core is about 3-4C. My cores ran with a similar temperature spread when I was running on just air though. Plus, I haven't run the HK 3.0cu without the quadcore insert so I can't tell you exactly how much the quadcore insert affected my temperatures. Sorry if this post didn't really help you out that much...all I can tell you is that the insert is secured into my HK and hasn't been washed away by the pump.


well, its nice info, atm i cant see any temp diff between my cores, i dont know why but they are all the same. If it isnt flushed thats fine(how do you check it btw, removing the tube?







). anyways, i wont put it in if the difference isnt shocking, if it would be a difference of 8C that would make me put it in, but i dont like to open up my system...


----------



## Paraleyes

Heatkiller 3.0 LT paired with XSPC RX360

UHAF 932 Concept Rig "Ultra High Air Flow" Work Log Here


----------



## GeforceGTS

For some reason I mounted my block the way seen below :l You can see I have a 8c difference between cores, do you think remounting the block the other way would help? The difference between cores on this Q6600 has never been this much with any other block or cooler btw. I'm kinda lazy though and don't want to remount if it isn't going to help


----------



## TerryP

HK 3.0 Limited edition /w black ice 240 rad


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TerryP* 
HK 3.0 Limited edition /w black ice 240 rad

Looks good of what I can see. You should try making the picture bigger, also, try to get another shot of the block.


----------



## Paraleyes

Here's some updated pictures. Leak tested and pumpin' away!

*BUILD LOG HERE!*


----------



## Gollie

Add me!

HK 3.0cu Feser 360


----------



## Paraleyes

*This is my 1st WC setup. Ummm. . . my temps have barely changed. If these temps are normal for WCing, I just blew some serious $$$ to reduce my load temps by 3C. Anyone?

Idle=43,38
Load=48,49*


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
*This is my 1st WC setup. Ummm. . . my temps have barely changed. If these temps are normal for WCing, I just blew some serious $$$ to reduce my load temps by 3C. Anyone?

Idle=43,38
Load=48,49*

What rad are you using?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_akimbo_* 
what rad are you using?

rx360


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
rx360

Stupid question but it must be asked. Are there any kinks in your loop? As a comparison for temperatures. My ambient is 78F and using an RX360 w/ a HK 3.0cu, I am getting 33C idle temp on my hottest core.

Also, what fans are on the rad? What is the cfm of the fans?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


Stupid question but it must be asked. Are there any kinks in your loop? As a comparison for temperatures. My ambient is 78F and using an RX360 w/ a HK 3.0cu, I am getting 33C idle temp on my hottest core.

Also, what fans are on the rad? What is the cfm of the fans?


No kinks. What are you load temps? I'm running Cooler Master fans [email protected] push/pull.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

I load around 42C. Those fans should be adequately cooling the fluid running through your rad. Have you tried remounting your HK?

As a side note, is Lothlorien in middle earth?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


I load around 42C. Those fans should be adequately cooling the fluid running through your rad. Have you tried remounting your HK?

As a side note, is Lothlorien in middle earth?


Yep, not a lot of people catch that. Arwen Evenstar(Liv Tyler) is my sex slave.

I may run down to Radio Shack and grab some AS5 then remount it. I noticed that one of my South Bridge mounting bolts that go through the MB have loosened up too, so I need to pull the MB regardless. I did use some Cooler Master thermal paste on the HK block. I guess that could be the culprit. I used that paste on my xigmatek Black Night and was really impressed with the results though. I may even lightly lap the HK while it's off.

I do have a question about this quad core thing people are mentioning. Is there something I am supposed to change inside the block for my E8500?


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Yep, not a lot of people catch that. Arwen Evenstar(Liv Tyler) is my sex slave.

I may run down to Radio Shack and grab some AS5 then remount it. I noticed that one of my South Bridge mounting bolts that go through the MB have loosened up too, so I need to pull the MB regardless. I did use some Cooler Master thermal paste on the HK block. I guess that could be the culprit. I used that paste on my xigmatek Black Night and was really impressed with the results though. I may even lightly lap the HK while it's off.

I do have a question about this quad core thing people are mentioning. Is there something I am supposed to change inside the block for my E8500?


Yeah, if you are using a dual core cpu then you can remove the quad core insert as it won't really benefit you. If you can get some MX-2, MX-3, or OCZ Freeze then I'd go with those over AS5 seeing as how those other TIMs have no curing time. Since you don't have any kinks in your loop, you are not cooling a gpu, and you are using more than adequate fans for you rad the only culprit i really see is the mounting of the HK. I really think that you should be getting temps lower than 3c below what you were getting on air. Post back if a remount doesn't solve your problem.


----------



## Paraleyes

Oh, thanks for the mention. I have some MX-2 still. That stuff is runny though. I wasn't very impressed with that aspect of it. Well, I'll be after it this evening. I am removing the whole MB too though, so I may not post back until tomorrow.

The quad core thing inside; is that difficult to remove?


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Oh, thanks for the mention. I have some MX-2 still. That stuff is runny though. I wasn't very impressed with that aspect of it. Well, I'll be after it this evening. I am removing the whole MB too though, so I may not post back until tomorrow.

The quad core thing inside; is that difficult to remove?


I have no idea as I've never tried to remove it but it looks like you can just pull it out with a pair of pliers. Sorry I can't be more helpful. As for MX-2, I love it and it's what I'm using on my HK at the moment. How are you applying the TIM anyways?


----------



## MintMouse

Uh, your load temps increase by as little as 5C, that suggests the loop is running fine. What are your ambients? Particularly warm?


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


I have no idea as I've never tried to remove it but it looks like you can just pull it out with a pair of pliers. Sorry I can't be more helpful. As for MX-2, I love it and it's what I'm using on my HK at the moment. How are you applying the TIM anyways?


Well on small chipsets, I usually spread it equally across the whole thing with a flexible piece of plastic. For CPU, I like to apply a bit less than a pea size ball in the center. Then make sure to equally distribute the cooler as I install it. Kinda like how you would bolt on a wheel on your car; alternating lugnuts in an appropriate pattern. I almost always get a perfect spread pattern on my CPUs when I check it after removing the cooler.

What do you think; is this enough TIM left in my MX-2 or should I save it for something smaller and go pick up some AS5 at The Shack?










Quote:



Originally Posted by *MintMouse*


Uh, your load temps increase by as little as 5C, that suggests the loop is running fine. What are your ambients? Particularly warm?


Ambient in my house is always 68F.

I just lapped the CPU while it was still attached to the loop by putting a large bowl underneath it and holding my elbow up in the air while sanding so that the water would not run down my arm.







Turned out pretty good for about 20 minutes of elbow grease. I used an automotive sanding block that flexes just barely and has a rubber base so that I did not remove any of the convex shape of the HK block. I gave it a few swipes with 400 grit to remove those scratches and dings I gave it before I 1st installed it, then about 6 to 8 minutes of 600 grit and finished off with 1000 grit and a pretty sore shoulder. What do you think?










EDIT: Oh yeah, and it turns out the bolt I thought was loose, wasn't. It was just the spring action from the stock mounting hardware. I gave the SB hardware a firm push while sliding it around on the chip in hopes of saving the thermal paste from an unnecessary replacement.


----------



## Paraleyes

My buddy is on the way over to watch The Ultimate Fighter. I had him stop by the shack to pick up the AS5. I don't want to use the MX-2 because if it's not enough, I won't be certain whether or not I solved my problem or not. I'll just save it for something small. I'll post my results.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


My buddy is on the way over to watch The Ultimate Fighter. I had him stop by the shack to pick up the AS5. I don't want to use the MX-2 because if it's not enough, I won't be certain whether or not I solved my problem or not. I'll just save it for something small. I'll post my results.


Sounds good. As for your ambient temps...68F is a good ambient & thus all signs point to a mounting problem. One last thing I forgot to ask. Are the fans pushing warm air from the case into the rad and then pulling it out of the case or are the fans pulling cool air from outside of the case and pushing it into the case?

Edit: Did you check the flatness of your lapping job by using a razor blade? If you shin a light on the razor blade and some light leaks out from under the razor then you need to relap because the cpu is not flat. Same applies to the HK 3.0 although I wouldn't lap the HK as it has a concave (or convex...can't remember which one) base and as such shouldn't really be lapped.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


Sounds good. As for your ambient temps...68F is a good ambient & thus all signs point to a mounting problem. One last thing I forgot to ask. Are the fans pulling warm air from the case into the rad and then pulling it out of the case or are the fans pulling cool air from outside of the case and pushing it into the case?


Awwh. . . Well obviously, I should flip all eight of those fans back around again. Originally, I had is set up so that two of the side panel 120mm fans blew in directly on my SLI VGAs while the other two side panel 120mm fans near the back of the case were exhaust. Then the six 120mm fans in push/pull were set up as intake through the top of the case. I switched it around last week so that all four side panels fans were intake and the six on the radiator were exhaust. My thoughts on that were to avoid my rig from looking like the inside of a vacuum bag. I'll turn those back around and play with my fan controller until I'm happy with the +/- pressure in the case. I'm just glad I didn't make my custom filters yet. I'll check the difference in temps from lapping and changing the TIM before I do it though and then post both changes tomorrow.

Thanks for the support akimbo!


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paraleyes*


Awwh. . . Well obviously, I should flip all eight of those fans back around again. Originally, I had is set up so that two of the side panel 120mm fans blew in directly on my SLI VGAs while the other two side panel 120mm fans near the back of the case were exhaust. Then the six 120mm fans in push/pull were set up as intake through the top of the case. I switched it around last week so that all four side panels fans were intake and the six on the radiator were exhaust. My thoughts on that were to avoid my rig from looking like the inside of a vacuum bag. I'll turn those back around and play with my fan controller until I'm happy with the +/- pressure in the case. I'm just glad I didn't make my custom filters yet. I'll check the difference in temps from lapping and changing the TIM before I do it though and then post both changes tomorrow.

Thanks for the support akimbo!


No problem man. I just asked about your rad fan orientation because I'm trying to single out every little thing I can that would make your w/c loop run so hot. As for me, I have my rad fans (in push/pull configuration) pushing the warm air in my case over the rad and pulling it out the top of the case and my CPU idles at 33C (not 43 C like your's does). Ideally, you should only see a couple of degrees difference with a switch in rad fan orientation. Any how, I really hope that a remount works for you because I don't know what else could be causing your problem.


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*


No problem man. I just asked about your rad fan orientation because I'm trying to single out every little thing I can that would make your w/c loop run so hot. As for me, I have my rad fans (in push/pull configuration) pushing the warm air in my case over the rad and pulling it out the top of the case and my CPU idles at 33C (not 43 C like your's does). Ideally, you should only see a couple of degrees difference with a switch in rad fan orientation. Any how, I really hope that a remount works for you because I don't know what else could be causing your problem.


Well, I had a few healthy dings in the mounting surface of the water block that I just lapped out. Also, I have quite a bit CFM of airflow blowing directly through my MB heat sink onto my CPU which is the accumulation of all the heat generated from both the NB & SB chips. Maybe I should make a shield or duct of some type to direct some of that air away from being blasted right on the CPU. Here's a better picture of those fans so you can see how they're positioned. Ignore the HSF on the CPU.


----------



## ShadowFox19

My Heatkiller (Copper) should be here tomorrow, but I won't be able to install until I get my pump, reservoir and tubing. I'm taking it slow and getting good components


----------



## melantha

add me got mine in and about to lap it am3 mount


----------



## Paraleyes

Still sitting at high idle temps, but load temps are a bit better. For the most part at 100% load, both cores stayed right at 44C-45C, but hit 47C at one point. Idle temps don't necessarily mean anything anyways and I guess I'm safe where I'm at now. It's definitely an improvement over air, but nothing like I imagined.

Idle=43,38
100% Load= 47,47 maximum

Lapped, new AS5, plus I made a small heat shield to mount on the water block in hopes of deflecting some of the heat generated from the MB.

I even had to mount the CPU twice.







I had one of the lines in the wrong place(1st picture) and I knew if I didn't change it, it would drive me crazy. Check out the shield I made.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

ive got my cpu at 1.45v with the copper wb, a 240 rad, 1/2" id tubing and 2x1900rpm fans and mine is < 30 idle and 40-43 stressed... so are you sure the fans are all right? arnt they blowing against eachothers direction? cause with the 360 you should get some cool temps... and i guess you arnt at more than 1.45v...

on air i had 40c idle and 55c stressed, at stock vcore/mhz's so for me it was a big improvement...


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL* 
ive got my cpu at 1.45v with the copper wb, a 240 rad, 1/2" id tubing and 2x1900rpm fans and mine is < 30 idle and 40-43 stressed... so are you sure the fans are all right? arnt they blowing against eachothers direction? cause with the 360 you should get some cool temps... and i guess you arnt at more than 1.45v...

on air i had 40c idle and 55c stressed, at stock vcore/mhz's so for me it was a big improvement...









Well I went back and looked at some of my realtemp.logs and found some pretty high temps while gaming. About the same as yours. My load temps are better than 10C less than they were on air. The fans are right. Thanks for thinking of another idea though. I am also overvolting. I just think my idle temps are high because of my overclock @ 4.35GHz Unless someone else has another idea?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

hmm, if im gaming im not getting higher than 37-38c, max temp is with linX
and for the overvolting, how much is it? cause 1.45 is the same as me and with the better rad you should be much cooler than me...
at the moment i cant figure out what could be wrong with your system, but if something pops up ill say it








btw, your max temp is 70c so you are fine...









goodluck anyways


----------



## ShadowFox19

I'm currently trying to install my HK, is it okay if the backplate is touching the CPU plate on the back of the MB? I installed things in this order, BACKPLATE | RED SPACER | MB | WHT WASHER | SPACER, but the backplate is touching, is that correct/alright?


----------



## Jason4i7

Yes, if your talking about the already installed cpu backing plate. I think your talking about the sliver rectangle.


----------



## ShadowFox19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jason4i7* 
Yes, if your talking about the already installed cpu backing plate. I think your talking about the sliver rectangle.

Yes, that's what I'm talking about, I didn't know the technical term for it, LOL!

Thanks!


----------



## ShadowFox19

You can add me to the club, I'll be running the all copper with a Feser Xchanger 360.


----------



## el gappo

mine should be here tomorrow. an lc or an lt im not sure. should be surprise


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *el gappo* 
mine should be here tomorrow. an lc or an lt im not sure. should be surprise









How do you not know?


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Paraleyes* 
How do you not know?

bit of a mess up with the order. apparently its been upgraded but im not sure.


----------



## ShadowFox19

Is my HK mounted correctly? Someone is trying to tell me I need to rotate it 90 degrees.


----------



## KoolMan

what is the best place to buy a HeatKiller?


----------



## Space Pope

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolMan* 
what is the best place to buy a HeatKiller?

I'd get it from sidewindercomputers.com or performancepcs. I think sidewinders is a bit cheaper though.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShadowFox19* 
Is my HK mounted correctly? Someone is trying to tell me I need to rotate it 90 degrees.










I doesn't really matter. You'll probably get half a degree better. Check out HES's orientation chart.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...blocks-i7.html


----------



## Shrimpykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ShadowFox19*


Is my HK mounted correctly? Someone is trying to tell me I need to rotate it 90 degrees.











People say that because they think air will get caught inside the block, it won't these blocks purge themselves of air due to the amount of water pressure inside them.


----------



## Digital Artist

woot, gotta love the Heatkiller! is it just me or does mine have a few scratches on it?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*


*Let us know your block, what model it is, and what type of radiator you use in your system.*


Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
Radiator: XSPC RX360


----------



## c5pilot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ShadowFox19* 
Is my HK mounted correctly? Someone is trying to tell me I need to rotate it 90 degrees.










Maybe they're saying that because it "looks" like the capacitors above your cpu could be interferring with the mounting. Since your motherboard is rotated 90* your HK should also be rotated according to the direction of the cpu holder. So, by quick glance, yes, you have it mounted incorrectly. Maybe you didn't realize your board is rotated from a standard tower position??? But if you're sure it's seated properly and nothing is touching it, I wouldn't bother changing it until it's time to redo the loop.


----------



## CD69Scorp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Digital Artist* 
woot, gotta love the Heatkiller! is it just me or does mine have a few scratches on it?









Heatkiller 3.0 Cu
Radiator: XSPC RX360

Welcome!! Yes gotta Love em!! That sucks about the scratches. Is it deep or surface scratches?


----------



## mcoffey

My HK-3 CU during bench testing.



















Great block and love mine,

andyc


----------



## Digital Artist

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CD69Scorp*


Welcome!! Yes gotta Love em!! That sucks about the scratches. Is it deep or surface scratches?


thanks.
if these things are scratches, then they're only on the surface. It almost looks like it's part of the block, I think it's just the way they cut the copper.

Ok so now I guess it's time to open up the block and clean out any remaining dirt that might still linger inside..


----------



## GeforceGTS

You never added me!









HeatKiller LT

Only pic I have at the moment with half finished cables ;x


----------



## Cobra26

Hi overclock members,

This is my first post so bare with me...
Any way i got my self a Heatkiller 3.0 (full copper) with the backplate for 1366 socket.
Just in case this is my motherboard EVGA X58 SLI LE

http://www.evga.com/articles/00481/

Together with a core i7 920 the case i'm going to putt all my hardware in is this beauty of a case:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/L...PC-X500/3.html

Together with a Aquastream XT pump, xspc480 rad, EK-fc275 gpu waterblock, swiftech micro res2, enzotech compression fittingen 3/8, masterkleer clear 3/8, and offcourse the Watercool Heatkiller 3.0.

Whats the correct way to connect the backplate to the motherboard? Should i face the name watercool on the backplate towards me when i look behind the motherboard? It seems the most logical way whats the point of hiding it but just to be sure...

How tight should i tighten the screws of the waterblock? Is there a way to measure it? 
And what does 200N means?
Final question how much thermal paste should i use on the block and in what way, smile way, 2 stripes, a little bit on the centre, etc etc, i use the GELID GC Extreme Thermal Compound wich has good reviews.

Please bare with me its my first wc. I already did a huge research on watercooling what to do and what not. But i still have my questions for the Heatkiller.

Thanks in advance help is very much appreciated.


----------



## davidm71

After two days of taking out my old Fuzion V2 and starting over from scratch here is my finished product. So you can add me to the Heatkiller club as well...










Forgot to mention before and after temps:

4.0 ghz OC 1.325 Volts 920 D0 Linx:
Fuzion V2: 72 - 73 - 74 - 68
Heatkiller: 62 - 63 - 64 - 60

(Note ambient temp much lower today by at least 4-5 degrees C with Heatkiller today. I'm still inpressed!)


----------



## ChielScape

so thats about a 5C improvement, not bad

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobra26* 
Whats the correct way to connect the backplate to the motherboard? Should i face the name watercool on the backplate towards me when i look behind the motherboard? It seems the most logical way whats the point of hiding it but just to be sure...

How tight should i tighten the screws of the waterblock? Is there a way to measure it?
And what does 200N means?
Final question how much thermal paste should i use on the block and in what way, smile way, 2 stripes, a little bit on the centre, etc etc, i use the GELID GC Extreme Thermal Compound wich has good reviews.

-put it the way it supports the board the best. (make sure the metal doesnt touch any solder points, so make sure those poke trough any potention insulation material

-tighten it till the springs are half-compressed... should be around right.

-200 Newton. The superior (read: metric) unit of force.

-i always use the 1/2 grain of rice method, works best in my experience, just wiggle till it spreads to cover the IHS.


----------



## Paraleyes

I used my old backplate from my Xigmatek Dark Night cooler. But I tightened it untill the springs were compressed. Is that bad? It seems to be cooler really well, but I don't want to mess something up because of that.


----------



## Digital Artist

my idle temp is somewhere around 32Â° Celsius and under load it goes up to like 42Â° C max


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Digital Artist* 
my idle temp is somewhere around 32Â° Celsius and under load it goes up to like 42Â° C max

Wow that's a lot better than me. Do those i7s run cooler in general? My Q9650 is at 38C & 46C. Plus I think I have a pretty good radiator too. What's up with that?


----------



## Darkshadow74

I just ordered a Watercool HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1366 and a ThermoChill PA120.3 3x120mm High Performance Radiator - 15mm Spacing plus EK-FB EVGA X58 Classified - Acetal Nickel. will be here in the next 3 days. So i love to join the club. Will have pics as I get the stuff and put it together.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Hello, I just got my Heatkiller in today, I been reading over and some questions come to mind I am hoping someone can help me out. I will be laying my motherboard Horizontally so does it matter what way I put the holes? Also do I want to put the inlet tube in the center barb? And one last question, should I remove the little metal silvery looking plate out of it for better flow? Thank you.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*


Hello, I just got my Heatkiller in today, I been reading over and some questions come to mind I am hoping someone can help me out. I will be laying my motherboard Horizontally so does it matter what way I put the holes? Also do I want to put the inlet tube in the center barb? And one last question, should I remove the little metal silvery looking plate out of it for better flow? Thank you.


Is this for your Q6600? If it is, then ideally you should have the heatkiller positioned upright (take a look at my profile picture and you will see how to orient the HK). With that being said, some people on socket 1366 have had to mount their HK's sideways because of clearance with capacitors and what not. The inlet tube is the tube smack dab in the center of the HK...the tube on the bottom of the HK is the outlet port. As for the silver things in the plate...that is a flow distributor...if you are using the HK on a socket 775 quad-core then leave the silver distributor plate inside the HK. If you are using the HK on a socket 1366 or a socket 775 dual core then remove the distributor plate.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Nope going for my i7 920.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*


Nope going for my i7 920.


In that case, you may have to orient your HK sideways in order to avoid clearance issues. Remove the distributor plate. The oultet is on the bottom of the HK and the inlet is right in the middle of the HK.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Now I am hearing that in the older None 1366 socket Heatkiller that there is a t shaped plate and a metal silvery plate. take out the T but leave the silvery plate, but then i hear take out everything and hollow it out. So I am not sure which it is.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Heres pics of my set up. so can i plz join.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74* 
Heres pics of my set up. so can i plz join.

That's an interesting case. Never seen a MB mounted that way.


----------



## Villosa

Please add me to the list.

Hk 3.0 755 LT
Using Feser 120 and 240mm
Build log here http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...build-log.html

Thanks!


----------



## ShadowFox19

Is there a mod to the HK that I should do to get better temps? I thought I saw one that involved taking something out of the block...I forget exactly what it was all about.


----------



## Paraleyes

Leave it be for your system. It's for better quad core distribution of the coolant inside the block. However, there may be a "best" way to position the block on you MB for quad-core CPUs. That has been discussed here already. I don't remember exactly what was said.

Also, I don't know if you have a fan blowing through that massive heatsink on you MB or not, but if it is blowing onto your HK, I would recommend building a heat shield. Check out what I did. Good for a couple better *C. Made out of a Monster energy drink can.


----------



## Arkuatic

Does anyone know if I buy the HK 3.0 rev 1366 I still have to buy the back bracket for the 1366 still?


----------



## Space Pope

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arkuatic*


Does anyone know if I buy the HK 3.0 rev 1366 I still have to buy the back bracket for the 1366 still?


Yeah, they're sold separately


----------



## Arkuatic

Damn what a horrible gimmick.


----------



## Space Pope

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arkuatic*


Damn what a horrible gimmick.


Seriously. It costs like what, 2 bucks to make?


----------



## davidm71

Quote:



Originally Posted by *c5pilot*


Maybe they're saying that because it "looks" like the capacitors above your cpu could be interferring with the mounting. Since your motherboard is rotated 90* your HK should also be rotated according to the direction of the cpu holder. So, by quick glance, yes, you have it mounted incorrectly. Maybe you didn't realize your board is rotated from a standard tower position??? But if you're sure it's seated properly and nothing is touching it, I wouldn't bother changing it until it's time to redo the loop.


Mine is mounted the same way and honestly I think there's no harm in doing it that way. Three out of four cores on mine are always identical in temp reading and there are bigger factors in my design that would give me lower cpu temps than the HK mounting. I wish I had load temps in the 50's with linx at 4ghz but I don't think the mounting would get me there!


----------



## pestypest

Add me please









HK 3.0 LT Fesser 480 quad push/pull


----------



## ShortySmalls

oh cool im in, just got mine in the mail and testing for leaks now. ill post the pictures and make a work log later.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...360-build.html

theres the pictures.


----------



## wheth4400

I just got my Hk 3.0 
Pics here


----------



## ApexVIII

my HK 3.0 will be here next tuesday!!


----------



## Exidous

For some reason I cannot upload to the OCN forums anymore.....glitches out.....


----------



## ApexVIII

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Exidous*


For some reason I cannot upload to the OCN forums anymore.....glitches out.....











Nice lookin rig!! Just wondering have you tried a 21 multiple or 19? I had alot better luck with 19 vs when i had at 20. Just a thought


----------



## TrippinBimmer

I got GPU Blocks









-TrippinBimmer


----------



## mcj66106

Do the heat killer 3.0s come with any kind of back plate at all? I just ordered mine and it should be here on 8th or 9th. I cant seem to get my temps down where i think they should be with this setup.

CPU i7 920 4.2GHz @ 1.26v lapped
MB Rampage II Extreme
Ram Corsair XMS3 1600 1.56v
PSU Corsair HX1000
Pump swiftech MCP655
Rads 2 swiftech MCR220. 1 Danger Den X-FLow Black Ice Pro II 220
Cpu block Danger Den MC-TDX
Res Danger Den RAD-Reservoir
1/2" Tubing
Thermal compound Antec formula 5. Same as asc 5 I was told.
Case HAF 932
Fans pulling air in to the case push pull on 2 internal rads. Fans pushing air on back rad.
Room temp 21c
Idle temp 41,38,39,35
Max load temp 81,79,75,73

These temps just don't seem right to me. I have reseated the cpu block 20 or more times over the last 2 weeks and the temps change maybe 1 or 2c at idle and 3 to 4c full load. I have a heat killer 3.0 on the way but would like to know if there is any thing I can do to get it colder. I mean I have more than enough rad for an I7 and a Video loop. My pump is good and my flow is fine. One thing I did find odd is that none of the rads get even warm when its pushing 80c out of the cpu. Is this an indicator that my cpu block just isn't picking up the heat or just not enough?
Here is a pic of my rig. You can see that I didn't make any really long runs with the tubing and only used 1 T fitting and 1 90.
Any help would be great. If you need more info just let me know and ill post it.


----------



## Exidous

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ApexVIII* 
Nice lookin rig!! Just wondering have you tried a 21 multiple or 19? I had alot better luck with 19 vs when i had at 20. Just a thought









I'll give it a try. For some reason I cannot get the turbo to stay at x21 so I'll have to give x19 a try. I know the ram can take it.


----------



## ApexVIII

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Exidous* 
I'll give it a try. For some reason I cannot get the turbo to stay at x21 so I'll have to give x19 a try. I know the ram can take it. 

do you have EIST on? if so you can have the turbo set to always on and it will be 21, if EIST is not on then you the turbo is disabled so you cant run 21 :/

im running 19 im going to try and see how EIST does with it on so i can run 21x

i have the GTI bloodrage


----------



## Exidous

I did not have it on. I'll give it a whirl.

Edit. Stable at 4095MHz 21x195 but with EIST it bumps core voltage to 1.408v.....Temps running prime never break 58C. Keep in mind this is a VERY early C0 stepping 920. 

I likes mah HK 3.0....1.4v and still under 60c full load.


----------



## KOBALT

I'm totally in now... muahahaha.....

I'd love a "nice rig buddy!"

never got one of those before.....


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hi

I just received my Heat Killer 3.0 this week, I wonder if I should Lap the CPU (Q9650), I learned on google thats its not a good idea to lap the water Block (HeatKiller 3.0)

What about the CPU?


----------



## TrippinBimmer

add me to the list


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KOBALT* 
I'm totally in now... muahahaha.....

I'd love a "nice rig buddy!"

never got one of those before.....


Hey Cobalt,
thats a nice built you have there,
I hope you enjoy it, especially with 2 GTX 295


----------



## nicko42004200

u can add me pics up when done adding my second rad in my loop


----------



## R1P5AW

Purchased today...will be joining with pics soon


----------



## R1P5AW

What is the absolute best rad to pair with the Heatkiller in a simple CPU loop?

I don't care about noise levels and am looking for best performance


----------



## R1P5AW

I'm having trouble finding temps

I currently have an OC'd i7 930 w/ Noctua NH-D14

I plan building:

HK 3.0 + GTX 360 w/ Scythe UK 2000s

What are some of your temps?


----------



## R1P5AW




----------



## Richy1204

HK AM2 3.0 + RX120.1 rad soon to be upgrading to a 120.3


----------



## runeazn

i joined my pics are in sig


----------



## Satogd

Got it in set it up and i'm happy
debated the change for 2 weeks and dont regret it at all


----------



## driftingforlife

hear is mine. it is a LC.


----------



## OfficerMac

Add me please! Rev 3.0


----------



## fastsite

Heatkiller LT and Juggalo you might know that block hehe
here is the pic of the block and i will post pics of it on the board soon


----------



## coltsrock

picking up a Heatkiller GPU X3 and Heatkiller LC


----------



## chriskaz

add me too plz. System is still a work in progress, but I got it setup.


----------



## runeazn

Me want to join check Sig Rig for my heatkiller







it is 3.0


----------



## fastsite

heres mine with a heatkiller LT 775 and a cooler master 240mm rad i couldnt afford much but it works


----------



## Knight2000

Here is mine, add me









Heatkiller 3.0 LT
2 x Swiftech Mcr220-qp


----------



## fastsite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Knight2000*


Here is mine, add me



















in the first post is says "Let us know your block, what model it is, and what type of radiator you use in your system."


----------



## Segovax

HK 3.0 LT

Black Ice SR1 360

Log


----------



## Rud3Bwoy




----------



## Psycho666

i want in


----------



## nonamed

Hi dudes, I wonder if everything is ok with my HK 3.0 mounted...

I have [email protected] @ 1.38v . HT on , constant multiplier 21x .

Single loop, one block , MCP355 pump&XSPC top + FeserTripleRad+3xNoctua 1200RPM

My idle temps are 46-43C, during 20 runs of LinX maximum 82C .

Could anyone also check if I missed inlet/outlet ? Here are pics:


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Psycho666* 
i want in










Psycho,

Wondering if those Enermax Magmas are working cooling your rad? I have three on my RX360 and my temps kind of could be better. I also have the HK 3.0 and lately my stock load temps have gone up a few degrees. Not sure if its because its time to change the coolant or the gtx480s warming the place up?

Thanks.


----------



## N2Gaming

I Thought I posted in here before asking about these Heat killer blocks and for some reason my post was deleted...







I'm trying to figure out what is the best HK 3.0 for my AMD build. I have seen all black HK 3.0 blocks and I would like to get one of those for my system.

To OP... Maybe you could set up the Original Post to segregate the AMD members from the Intel members. This would make it a heck of a lot easier for noobs like myself to quickly see what blocks are available for AMD enthusiast's like my self.







This way we could bug those users w/PM about there hardware instead of crappin on your nice thread.


----------



## dead_grind

hello,
i wanna ask something. the watercool heatkiller rev 3.0 comes up without the thermal paste include in the packaging right? then what thermal paste you guys usually use for this waterblock? I'm planning to buy this Water block this weekend by the way

(sorry for my english)


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dead_grind* 
hello,
i wanna ask something. the watercool heatkiller rev 3.0 comes up without the thermal paste include in the packaging right? then what thermal paste you guys usually use for this waterblock? I'm planning to buy this Water block this weekend by the way

(sorry for my english)

I like Arctic Cooling MX-2 and OCZ Freeze.


----------



## fastsite

i like ocz freeze but its getting hard to find now


----------



## N2Gaming

Wow the efforts of members in this club sucks. Unsubbing and forgetting about the HK 3.0 for now. I think EK makes a better block any how.


----------



## fastsite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
Wow the efforts of members in this club sucks. Unsubbing and forgetting about the HK 3.0 for now. I think EK makes a better block any how.

you dont even watercool...


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fastsite* 
you dont even watercool...

Actually I have 2 8800GTX EK blocks for a few BFG cards that I have and I alreay own a 240 black ice Rad and I'm building my H2O loop piece by piece and I was hoping to get some help in finding the right CPU block but I was able to find help elsewhere so I depart.


----------



## MIGhunter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *N2Gaming*


Actually I have 2 8800GTX EK blocks for a few BFG cards that I have and I alreay own a 240 black ice Rad and I'm building my H2O loop piece by piece and I was hoping to get some help in finding the right CPU block but I was able to find help elsewhere so I depart.










Guess I missed it if he asked a question. You are better off asking questions in the forums, not the clubs.


----------



## srsdude

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MIGhunter* 
Guess I missed it if he asked a question. You are better off asking questions in the forums, not the clubs.

this.


----------



## Emerican

mememe


----------



## Juggalo23451

Sorry for the delay up date. been / was busy with 2 jobs. Now I have just one so I will be able to update it as needed. Thank you for understanding,
Juggalo23451


----------



## Juggalo23451

Bump. Any more hk owners want to join?


----------



## Zamoldac

Count me in







.
HK Rev3.0 LT


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zamoldac* 
Count me in







.
HK Rev3.0 LT

Will add you ad soon as I get off work


----------



## fastsite

well since your updating the club might as well update me. I don't have that cheap cooler master rad any more. I now have a Black Ice Xtreme II!


----------



## Juggalo23451

Updated


----------



## nightwing2007

hi guys mybe some one can give me some help
frist i have a HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1366 - Limited Edition
Nickel/Chrome Plated Waterblock - Chrome Plated Top
and Bottom. i hope its a good block.
anyway.
in my loop i have a Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump - with Speed
Controller the heatkiller 3.0 and EK Waterblocks EK-FB EVGA X58 Classified - Nickel . and a HW Labs Black Ice SR1 360 Carbon Black - Triple
120mm.
im just trying to find out what should i set my Swiftech MCP655 12v DC Pump 
speed at. i have it set a 2 now.
cuss it not cooling that good oh and the fan im useing on the rad are 
Delta 120x120x25mm FFB1212EH-F00 and im running them at 100%


----------



## 713King

I just recently received my HK, but I cant find mounting kit for AMD motherboard lol, so far I found http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...7&cat=0&page=1 but that is in UK


----------



## undertheradar

you all say: "hi undertheradar"

I have a bunch...


















And I just got these this week... first batch in the US!








HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ³ GTX580's for a couple EVGA GTX580 Superclocked cards in SLI to run nVidia surround on my three Asus 24" lcd's.

Ballz!


----------



## fit949

New owner here got on from an OCN member http://www.overclock.net/cooling-products/955168-heatkiller-v3-0-full-copper-1366-a.html for a great price and perfect condition buidling my new loop and system as we speak post pics soon Tower Full is at the powder coaters for a fresh Paint Job.


----------



## Jason4i7

As I have been reading thru some of these posts I have noticed that people are taking out the silver plate thats inside the block.

Dont.

Its suppose to be there for the even distribution of fluid over the block and is meant to be there. I have seen tests done with it and without it in the block when the block first came out and the test showed the plate helps. I can't seem to find them any longer, but that was the results.

If you have proof otherwise, post it, but for now, The recommendation is to leave it in.

@ fit949, cant wait to see the pics.

@everyone else, great build guys. Sorry been away for so long, just life happens sometimes. As soon as I get a camara, I will show my updated build. Same case, just a new layout and new tubing.


----------



## gre0481

Anyone have the heat killer for GTX 560 ti yet? Getting impatient with EK, so I may jump on the HeatKiller bandwagon


----------



## nden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gre0481;12906712*
> Anyone have the heat killer for GTX 560 ti yet? Getting impatient with EK, so I may jump on the HeatKiller bandwagon


I've ordered 2 of those Heatkiller GTX560Ti for my SLi setup. It should be here in 3 days. I'll post photos when I'll get it up and running.


----------



## runeazn

i hate heatkiller it kills no heat at all..
HK 3.0 Full copper get 50C idle on stock on 1.17V i7..


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;13027024*
> i hate heatkiller it kills no heat at all..
> HK 3.0 Full copper get 50C idle on stock on 1.17V i7..


Then reset your block and get some better TIM. That and what type of fans are you using on your Rad. If your not pulling enough air thru, then that will cause issues.

Name everything that is in your loop, including motherboard and gpu blocks.


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason4i7;13029045*
> Then reset your block and get some better TIM. That and what type of fans are you using on your Rad. If your not pulling enough air thru, then that will cause issues.
> 
> Name everything that is in your loop, including motherboard and gpu blocks.


does that even matter?
it was 28C before when i first installed it..
now it is 50C doesnt it just clarify that HK has crap quality?

its res>mcp655>rad>CPU Block>res>etc..


----------



## Mongol

Uhhh, my 970 @ 4.2 doesn't even idle at 50c. (more like 34c-39c depending on ambient)
(dropped it to stock, idles @ 24c)

Reseat that block buddy...something's amiss.
(or there's gunk on the pins in the block...or the water flow is restricted somehow)


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;13035281*
> does that even matter?
> it was 28C before when i first installed it..
> now it is 50C doesnt it just clarify that HK has crap quality?
> 
> its res>mcp655>rad>CPU Block>res>etc..


No. It means something is wrong with your loop.

You should listen to us and stop blaming the HK. You probably have a bunch of build up in your loop.

What kind of fluid are you using?


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason4i7;13035419*
> No. It means something is wrong with your loop.
> 
> You should listen to us and stop blaming the HK. You probably have a bunch of build up in your loop.
> 
> What kind of fluid are you using?


distilled water + silver


----------



## Jason4i7

did you clean your loop out with heated distilled vinegar and distilled water first?

I would still take the block apart and make sure nothing is inside it. Also make sure your fans (all 4) are still running and that they are clean. As fans get dirty they move a lot less air, and that can change your static pressure.

gotta go to work, ill try to check back later.


----------



## runeazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason4i7;13035694*
> did you clean your loop out with heated distilled vinegar and distilled water first?
> 
> I would still take the block apart and make sure nothing is inside it. Also make sure your fans (all 4) are still running and that they are clean. As fans get dirty they move a lot less air, and that can change your static pressure.
> 
> gotta go to work, ill try to check back later.


no i didnt clean it before,

and omg it gunked up totally and it is uncleanable as i tried ketchup, vinger+salt, and cola


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runeazn;13038702*
> no i didnt clean it before,
> 
> and omg it gunked up totally and it is uncleanable as i tried ketchup, vinger+salt, and cola


Here, do this.

You can use a razor blade to clean in between the grooves in the block. It will take some time, but patience is important.

After you get the block cleaned, your going to want to clean your radiator also. And I would clean the pump too. The pump shouldn't be that dirty because its constantly moving, but your radiator is going to be bad. Your going to want to take a vinegar and distilled water and boil it. Being VERY CAREFUL, fill the radiator and let it sit. Drain, rinse and repeat. Until satisfied.

This is basic WC maintenance, and should be done everyone 3-6 months. If you wait to long, then you get what you have. A super gunked up block.


----------



## yang88she

bookmarked


----------



## Charles1

Well finally I can jon the club! Here is my HK 3.0 NP


----------



## Juggalo23451

updated


----------



## longroadtrip

Juggalo- I live in the same town. Do you know any decent places for nickel plating around here? Just bought an HK 3.0 LT setup along with the 6870 block. I need to have it nickel plated so it will match everything else (not feeling the copper look, but love the performance!)


----------



## GhostRiderZG

I have a heatkiller 3.0 LC for my 2500K. Which is the inlet and which is the outlet on the block?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostRiderZG;13637426*
> I have a heatkiller 3.0 LC for my 2500K. Which is the inlet and which is the outlet on the block?


Inlet is in the center of the block, outlet is above it.


----------



## GhostRiderZG

Crap, that was the way I had it. Trying to figure out why I'm getting such HIGH load temps. Getting around 80-80c loaded...back to the drawing board.


----------



## 86 5.0L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13637828*
> Inlet is in the center of the block, outlet is above it.


below it...

unless you like upside down writting


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86 5.0L;13640201*
> below it...
> 
> unless you like upside down writting


You're exactly right! LOL...


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostRiderZG;13640084*
> Crap, that was the way I had it. Trying to figure out why I'm getting such HIGH load temps. Getting around 80-80c loaded...back to the drawing board.


Can we see a picture of your loop?


----------



## GhostRiderZG

It is naked at the moment. I made a couple of changes to the tubing and I am in the process of putting it back together and then will bleed and leak test. I will have it back up tonight and will post back with an update.


----------



## GhostRiderZG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip;13640259*
> Can we see a picture of your loop?


Here is my loop order:
Koolance 452X2 Res (Swiftech MCP655-B pump)>
Swiftech MCR320-QP rad 1>
Swiftech MCR320-QP rad 2 (connected by two 90's and Fesser SLI connector)>
Heatkiller 3.0LC>
XSPC Razor GTX460 GPU 1>
XSPC Razor GTX460 GPU 2>
Back to Res

The pic below is AFTER I made a couple of changes. I still get loaded temps in the 80-85c range.

Can you OVERtighten the Heatkiller 3.0LC??


----------



## 86 5.0L

I don't think you Overtightened, I went all the way until I couldn't turn the screws anymore, but I have the backplate idk If that makes a difference


----------



## 86 5.0L

Btw how do u like those razor GPU covers? I've been debating getting one


----------



## GhostRiderZG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86 5.0L;13666760*
> Btw how do u like those razor GPU covers? I've been debating getting one


I like them very much. I got them because of the price and I have been very happy with them.


----------



## GhostRiderZG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86 5.0L;13666752*
> I don't think you Overtightened, I went all the way until I couldn't turn the screws anymore, but I have the backplate idk If that makes a difference


I have the backplate also and I have them screwed all the way down. I just can't figure out why the cpu temps are so high when loaded.


----------



## Mayhem

We use a heatkiller in our testing , it the best bit of kit for destroying bad pre-mixes







all a good way of testing if a fluid will block ports ect ect.


----------



## GhostRiderZG

I FINALLY figured it out and now I only hit mid 40's c under load.
All I had to do was to turn the block 90 degrees to the left and tada INSTANT lower temps.

As it turns out the caps on my Gigabyte UD5 motherboard was not letting the block seat properly on the cpu. I found this out on another forum with someone having the same issue but on a different Gigabyte board so I had to try it with mine.

NOW I can move on to some overclocking!

Oh yeah, I am very happy about this...can you tell??


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostRiderZG;13665398*
> Here is my loop order:
> Koolance 452X2 Res (Swiftech MCP655-B pump)>
> Swiftech MCR320-QP rad 1>
> Swiftech MCR320-QP rad 2 (connected by two 90's and Fesser SLI connector)>
> Heatkiller 3.0LC>
> XSPC Razor GTX460 GPU 1>
> XSPC Razor GTX460 GPU 2>
> Back to Res
> 
> The pic below is AFTER I made a couple of changes. I still get loaded temps in the 80-85c range.
> 
> Can you OVERtighten the Heatkiller 3.0LC??


I would move the radiators apart. go pump to radiator, to cpu to rad to gpu's them to res.

Pump-320-cpu-320-gpu-res.

This may help your temps, going from rad to rad has show to have little to no improved drop in tempratures. Being able to isolate the cpu temps from your gpu temps should help lower total system temps. By running your cpu temps into your gpus after being heated once, just means the temps are going to get thet much higher.


----------



## GhostRiderZG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason4i7;13677452*
> I would move the radiators apart. go pump to radiator, to cpu to rad to gpu's them to res.
> 
> Pump-320-cpu-320-gpu-res.
> 
> This may help your temps, going from rad to rad has show to have little to no improved drop in tempratures. Being able to isolate the cpu temps from your gpu temps should help lower total system temps. By running your cpu temps into your gpus after being heated once, just means the temps are going to get thet much higher.


The only thing that I needed to change was to rotate the cpu block 90 degrees to the left. After I did that my temps went WAY down and everthing is normal now. The block was hitting on the caps and I didn't realize it, so it was not making full contact with the cpu.


----------



## Jason4i7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostRiderZG;13677895*
> The only thing that I needed to change was to rotate the cpu block 90 degrees to the left. After I did that my temps went WAY down and everthing is normal now. The block was hitting on the caps and I didn't realize it, so it was not making full contact with the cpu.


Really glad you figured it out. So you rotated your block that the ports are now facing sideways? I see a lot of people doing that and glad its working for you. I still enjoy the way it looks that way. But that just opinion.


----------



## GhostRiderZG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason4i7;13677955*
> Really glad you figured it out. So you rotated your block that the ports are now facing sideways? I see a lot of people doing that and glad its working for you. I still enjoy the way it looks that way. But that just opinion.


You can see the caps in this picture on the left side of the block:










Then I rotated the block and now the block makes full contact with the cpu:










I didn't even take the time to put new tim back on, just unscrewed it, rotated it and screwed it back down. I thought if it didn't work then I didn't waste time redoing the tim. lol

I reran Prime95 and the cpu never got past 45c where before it was hitting 85c.


----------



## ZombieAttack27

I'd like to be added to the club... Just got an HK 3.0 ni-bl


----------



## Accept

HEATKILLER® forever!!


----------



## Accept

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Accept*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® forever!!


----------



## TwentyCent

Back from the deads









Anybody could direct me to a picture of a CU Heatkiller with trim and brackets painted black? I would like to avoid going through all 40 pages of pictures


----------



## sli_shroom

tastey


----------



## davidm71

Anyone know if the heatkiller is socket 2011 compatible?


----------



## longroadtrip

The socket 1366 version is compatible with socket 2011. You will have to get a 2011 back-plate, but is well worth it!


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> The socket 1366 version is compatible with socket 2011. You will have to get a 2011 back-plate, but is well worth it!


Thats great news! So no disassembly of the block required. Just a new backplate?

Will be worth it thats for sure but still going to wait a year for bugs be worked out and prices come down. Would like to swap my motherboard for an Msi X79 Xpower board. Can dream...

Thanks.


----------



## longroadtrip

The 1366 will fit with an LGA 2011 backplate...they are the same block, Watercool just sells separate backplates.


----------



## davidm71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> The 1366 will fit with an LGA 2011 backplate...they are the same block, Watercool just sells separate backplates.


So you mean the back plate that supports the block behind the motherboard? Not the base of the block itself?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Hmm...not sure why I never posted in here.

HK 3.0 CPU and 2x GPUx3 blocks


----------



## Mazda6i07

Not the cpu, but i'll just post this anyways.









Also, does anyone have a picture of the inside of this block. I saw a picture a while back of the inside of this block being compared to a danger den block or something. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidm71*
> 
> So you mean the back plate that supports the block behind the motherboard? Not the base of the block itself?


The heatkiller block works for both 1366 and 2011. All you need to do is pick up the correct backplate. That is the plate that goes behind the motherboard and is not included with a heatkiller cpu block. Here is a link to the product information.


----------



## Juggalo23451

updated


----------



## FernyVR4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> The heatkiller block works for both 1366 and 2011. All you need to do is pick up the correct backplate. That is the plate that goes behind the motherboard and is not included with a heatkiller cpu block. Here is a link to the product information.


If the heatkiller block works for both LGA1366 and 2011, can I assume that the backplate will as well? I can only seem to find LGA1366 backplates, and I've checked FrozenCPU, Aquatuning, even Watercool's own website.....

Thanks.


----------



## longroadtrip

The 1366 and 2011 backplate is the same product


----------



## FernyVR4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> The 1366 and 2011 backplate is the same product


Thanks, I just wanted to check because they didn't state it explicitly. Would hate to mess up my first WC setup with such a minor oversight.

Thanks again.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I have one to sell, in pretty good shape, all repolished by me and rinse with distilled water, PM me not expensive


----------



## Accept

Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 1366 CPU Water Block (New Version Includes LGA1366/2011 Mount) http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_498_495&products_id=25218

Watercool HEATKILLER CPU 3.0 Series 1366/2011 Conversion Kit http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_410_1037&products_id=33142


----------



## quakermaas

For the 1366 heatkiller block to fit on the socket 2011, you just need four longer HEX bolts.

I got a 1366 Heat killer and just bolted it straight in with out springs..the HEX bolts screw straight into the back plate on the socket 2011.

I will get longer HEX bolts tomorrow so I can fit it with the springs.


----------



## lordstyx

Can I join the club? I have a Watercool Heatkiller rev 3.0 1336 Cu.

Here's a pic: (Sorry for the low def)



Small question: mine came without plastic over the baseplate to protect it. Is that normal?


----------



## axiumone

I'm certainly a part of this club!

Have two MSI 6950 Twin frozr II with Heatkiller 6870 blocks on them.


----------



## Ka0sX

hey guys just wondering with the Heatkiller Rev3.0 1366/2011 CPU Block Ni-BL. And the Rampage 4 Formula if i would use the holes currently on the intel socket or do i need to use the 1366 socket that comes with the motherboard?

Thanks


----------



## Jason4i7

Yes, while the socket is physically larger than 1366, the mounting holes for heatsinks are the same

Just need to change the backing plate.


----------



## ckoons1

how does the HEATKILLER 3.0 compare to the newer water blocks on the market now?
reason being it would match my gpu water block.
thx


----------



## HD5830Gamer

And yup had to buy another HK block as I stripped the screws out on the first one. Found a screw driver set that worked and fit perfectly. And I'm using a Motorcycle radiator with Prestone coolant. 30% Anti-Freeze and 70% water. This is to slow down corrosion of the mixed metals and when using AF the tubing doesn't cloud as it would with plain distilled water


----------



## ArtX38

http://www.overclock.net/t/1401222/bitfenix-prodigy-mirror-black-blue


----------



## Carniflex

Have couple of Heatkiller GPU core blocks. Still in the shelf atm as it turned out I need additional copper plate to put it on the 79x0 series AMD cards.


----------



## ckoons1

does anyone know if the HEATKILLER 3 will fit on the ASUS MAXIMUS V EXTREME with an EK Full board waterblock installed?
thx


----------



## TheMasterNoob

Can a rep answer my question? Are there any waterblocks planned for the gtx 780 hof?


----------



## adjago

hai all i am new be here
i like heatkiller is very Unique item


----------



## midnytwarrior

Hello!

I just saw this thread

Here's my heatkillers

I only got a solo pic for my GTX 770 HK block



Wtih my GTX470



I'm just wondering, I used to have these in serial setup, but when I switched to parallel temps on my the GTX470 went higher by 8 degrees (used to be 3-5 degrees in serial).


----------



## adjago

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *midnytwarrior*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I just saw this thread
> 
> Here's my heatkillers
> 
> I only got a solo pic for my GTX 770 HK block
> 
> Wtih my GTX470
> 
> I'm just wondering, I used to have these in serial setup, but when I switched to parallel temps on my the GTX470 went higher by 8 degrees (used to be 3-5 degrees in serial).










nice build bro


----------



## midnytwarrior

Quote:


> thumb.gif nice build bro


Thanks!


----------



## bern43

So you can run the HK 3.0 block sideways? What about running it with the writing upside down? Just don't want the inlet on the top. Would help my tube routing if you can.


----------



## cynan

I have a couple of Heatkiller X3 79X0 full cover blocks for a pair of crossfired HD 7970s. First off, these blocks are awesome. But I guess people reading this forum mostly already know that. The only issue I've had with them is a stripped hex screw head on one of the center screws that hold the block together. (I had a corrosion issue as I used a fitting that had some of its plating scraped off that I didn't notice and had to open up the Heatkiller block a couple of times to clean out the oxidized green copper gunk).

When I got the second block, I eventually decided to try the dual link connector. What a piece of junk! When I first attached it, I had a difficult time getting the top and bottom cards to line up correctly so that the thing wouldn't leak. Then the bridge cover (to block the port for the slot not being occupied by a graphics card). The screws thread directly into soft plastic! When I went to install it, I switched the bridge cover to the alternate port, carefully tightened it and the screws just kept turning. When I removed them, soft black plastic threading came out. If they're not going to put metal threads in, then they could have used larger threading on the screws, instead of just using the same metal hex screws that go into the metal blocks. Doesn't really make one feel all too confident RE leaks... I ended up putting it back in and wrapping the entire middle of the dual link with Gorilla tape just to be safe. Looks kinda ghetto now...

Anyway, I'm using it now that I have it installed, but I can't see why anyone just wouldn't use 4 G1/4 fittings and a couple lengths of tubing instead...

Anyone else have a poor experience with the dual/multi link connectors?


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Anyone tested out the new Heatkiller 290x blocks???


----------



## calanorn

I have the heatkiller 290x blocks and CPU block, As you can see the build isn't quite finished yet still need to make a casing to conceal the bottom part so far im pretty impressed with the blocks keeping everything cool but this is my first WC system so I have not comparison to base it against.


----------



## adjago

nice build bro


----------



## ckoons1

Hi gang
If I mount my heatkiller 3.0 socket 2011 block to the motherboard do I just screw the screws/springs directly to the socket 2011 intel back plate mount holes or do I need to use the watercool 1366 spacers ?
Thx

never mind figured it out.


----------



## warpuck

http://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_3.0_A5_0.pdf

heatkiller rev 3.0 which spring distance should I choose?

AMD 9590
Asrock 990fx Extreme9
Artic Silver MX-2

I was thinking of using 13.5mm because it is in the middle

The plate is 1.5mm. Since it would be easier to measure from the top of the spring to the bottom of the plate with caliper the distance is 15mm. The drawing shows the top of the screw - top of the plate distance. I am using the cpu socket backplate from a water 2.0 The pressure should be 150N. would this be adequate or should i go to the next higher pressure ?


----------



## Kendragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> Hi gang
> If I mount my heatkiller 3.0 socket 2011 block to the motherboard do I just screw the screws/springs directly to the socket 2011 intel back plate mount holes or do I need to use the watercool 1366 spacers ?
> Thx
> 
> never mind figured it out.


What did you figure out to get it to work? I currently have the HK3.0 with an 1150 bracket on a 4770k, but also have the old 1366 mount somewhere. I have a 5930K and x99 mobo coming!!!


----------



## ckoons1

you need the 2011 conversion kit.

I need the 1150 kit.

want to swap?


----------



## rioja

I am also in the club







with my 6-years old Heatkiller 3.0 on 1366 socket



Now I am going to upgrade to 5820, what should I do - just get conversion kit to 2011-3 socket and leave 3.0 version, or get new block 4.0?


----------



## OCmember

Just put this loop together. Took a month of planning, getting the parts, then assembling it.

HK 3.0 on a Westmere W3690. Held it to 70*c in 80*f ambient temps @ 4.6GHz using 1.38v IBT High


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> I am also in the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with my 6-years old Heatkiller 3.0 on 1366 socket
> 
> 
> 
> Now I am going to upgrade to 5820, what should I do - just get conversion kit to 2011-3 socket and leave 3.0 version, or get new block 4.0?


Pick a cheaper option. The temperature difference, if any, should be negligible. Unless you have used some kind of color in the loop or there is some kind of pollution in the system which has polluted the block fins over the time. In which case you would need either to clear the fins or get a new block for max performance, but even with polluted fins temp difference is usually within few degrees.


----------



## warpuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> http://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_3.0_A5_0.pdf
> 
> heatkiller rev 3.0 which spring distance should I choose?
> 
> AMD 9590
> Asrock 990fx Extreme9
> Artic Silver MX-2
> 
> I was thinking of using 13.5mm because it is in the middle
> 
> The plate is 1.5mm. Since it would be easier to measure from the top of the spring to the bottom of the plate with caliper the distance is 15mm. The drawing shows the top of the screw - top of the plate distance. I am using the cpu socket backplate from a water 2.0 The pressure should be 150N. would this be adequate or should i go to the next higher pressure ?


update>used 200 nm spring distance no problems. Contacted Asrock about clamping pressure. Got back "don't know" for an answer, lol. It has been 7 months no problem so far.


----------



## JayJayvld

can i use my heatkiller rev 3.0 1366 on 2011-3 ? with the same 1366 mounting ?


----------



## OCmember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayJayvld*
> 
> can i use my heatkiller rev 3.0 1366 on 2011-3 ? with the same 1366 mounting ?


That's what I heard. What does the heatkiller web page say? There might be a few things that might need to be changed out like screws and the mounting plates


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayJayvld*
> 
> can i use my heatkiller rev 3.0 1366 on 2011-3 ? with the same 1366 mounting ?




this is HK 3.0 from my old 1366 on top of new 2011-3,

the mounting holes matched. But you may need longer screws.


----------



## walternowi

You need the Heatkiller 1366-to-2011 conversion kit. These are the longer mounting screws.

Heatkiller 1366-to-2011


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

*sneaks in*

*blows dust off of everything*

*mumbles some ancient nonsense*

RISE, MY BEAUTY!!!

*pops champagne bottles*

So, yeah, I just totally necrod this thread. Why did I do so? I wanted to show my face to you dear people of the HEATKILLER Club. My name is Jakob, I am a watercooling and hardware enthusiast just like everyone of you, and I managed to make my hobby become a job and work for WATERCOOL as International Customer Support. As such, I was shocked to see that this thread died out shortly after the release of the fourth generation of the muchloved HEATKILLER. Why? What is happening? Seeing the dedicated HEATKILLER IV thread in this forum, there still is some love for the HEATKILLER brand. So, fellow fans: let's revive this club! Put it to old glory! And engage in friendly competition with the EK club









WHat can you expect from me here in the club? Well, obviously, I will be ready to answer all your questions about any HEATKILLER water block you already own. If there is a problem or a suggestion, just shoot! I will be happy to help. But also, you can tell me if there are specific products-not-currently-in-existence that you'd like to see from us. You got this fancy new mainbaord, but there are no VRM water blocks? Let me know. You always gnawed on this ONE MISTAKE all reservoirs on the market are making? Tell me about it! And especially: you got this beautiful WATERCOOL rig that nobody ever appreciates? Pleae, post pictures in this thread and let us all together drool over your creation!

Obviously, I will also be happy to read and talk abut other WATERCOOL products, for example the massive MO-RA3 radiator. You guys set the pace, I will jump in whenever I feel like I have something to add to the conversation!

And now: let's have some fun together! I'm really looking forward to hearing from you guys (and gals) out there!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> *sneaks in*
> 
> *blows dust off of everything*
> 
> *mumbles some ancient nonsense*
> 
> RISE, MY BEAUTY!!!
> 
> *pops champagne bottles*
> 
> So, yeah, I just totally necrod this thread. Why did I do so? I wanted to show my face to you dear people of the HEATKILLER Club. My name is Jakob, I am a watercooling and hardware enthusiast just like everyone of you, and I managed to make my hobby become a job and work for WATERCOOL as International Customer Support. As such, I was shocked to see that this thread died out shortly after the release of the fourth generation of the muchloved HEATKILLER. Why? What is happening? Seeing the dedicated HEATKILLER IV thread in this forum, there still is some love for the HEATKILLER brand. So, fellow fans: let's revive this club! Put it to old glory! And engage in friendly competition with the EK club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHat can you expect from me here in the club? Well, obviously, I will be ready to answer all your questions about any HEATKILLER water block you already own. If there is a problem or a suggestion, just shoot! I will be happy to help. But also, you can tell me if there are specific products-not-currently-in-existence that you'd like to see from us. You got this fancy new mainbaord, but there are no VRM water blocks? Let me know. You always gnawed on this ONE MISTAKE all reservoirs on the market are making? Tell me about it! And especially: you got this beautiful WATERCOOL rig that nobody ever appreciates? Pleae, post pictures in this thread and let us all together drool over your creation!
> 
> Obviously, I will also be happy to read and talk abut other WATERCOOL products, for example the massive MO-RA3 radiator. You guys set the pace, I will jump in whenever I feel like I have something to add to the conversation!
> 
> And now: let's have some fun together! I'm really looking forward to hearing from you guys (and gals) out there!


Hi Jakob

Do you know when clear acrylic sli bridges will be made? One more thing will there be a clear acrylic D5 pump top?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Hi Jakob
> 
> Do you know when clear acrylic sli bridges will be made? One more thing will there be a clear acrylic D5 pump top?


Hi Newtocooling (probably not so new anymore







),
The acrylic SLI connector is in fact on our ToDo list. Unfortunately, I don't have an ETA, but it will probably be before Q4 of 2016.
For the pump tops: both the tops for DDC and for D5 will see a massive redesign in this year. Up until now, we don't plan to incorporate an acrylic design. UNLESS we see that there is a demand in the community... So, if you get enough people in this thread to yell "But i needz acrylic pump topz pretty plz!!11" (or something more articulate), we will most likely reconsider


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hi Newtocooling (probably not so new anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ),
> The acrylic SLI connector is in fact on our ToDo list. Unfortunately, I don't have an ETA, but it will probably be before Q4 of 2016.
> For the pump tops: both the tops for DDC and for D5 will see a massive redesign in this year. Up until now, we don't plan to incorporate an acrylic design. UNLESS we see that there is a demand in the community... So, if you get enough people in this thread to yell "But i needz acrylic pump topz pretty plz!!11" (or something more articulate), we will most likely reconsider


OK hopefully more people around this forum will back me up on the need for an acrylic pump top, you guys make the best stuff!! I love my Heatkiller IV CPU Block.


----------



## VSG

I didn't even know there was a Heatkiller Club! Count me in


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I didn't even know there was a Heatkiller Club! Count me in


Hey V, great to see you here! Yeah, I was surprised at first too - mainly for the sudden death of this thread. Maybe some of the oldtimers can fill us in?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> OK hopefully more people around this forum will back me up on the need for an acrylic pump top, you guys make the best stuff!! I love my Heatkiller IV CPU Block.


Oh, I'm having another topic for you people in the next few weeks prior to the pumps. I will need your feedback, expereiences and wishlists on a specific item... It'll probably be midweek until I can talk about it some more, so stay tuned! When that is done and in final developing, we will talk about pump tops


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Okay okay, I do realize that this technically is a doublepost. But I just rebuild my personal build: after I used an Phenom II 1090t for the last fiveandahalf years, I finally gathered the funds (and will) to update. For the new CPU i5 6600k on the new Asus Maximus Ranger my beautiful wife decided to give me two special goodies as a gift:




I'm loving it


----------



## VSG

I will never tire of pics of the Heatkiller IV Pro.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

So, people, I do have a question for you: Reservoirs!

We are currently developing our new series of reservoirs, and I wanted to know what your ideas about that topic are. I'm not only interested in your own opinion, but also in what you have read in other forums, buildlogs and so on. A few things to talk about could be:

- Overall Design: Do you prefer bay reservoirs or tube reservoirs? Do you take tubes because it's virtually the only thing on the market or because you genuinely like tubes? If you want a tube, do you want the surface plain or with a desing on it? If you could go crazy and have your wish layout, what would it be? A tube? A sphere? A cube? A pentagonal pillar?
- Material: Glass or Plexi (Acrylic glass)? Or don't you care about transparency at all and would go for, say, stainless steel?
- Size: Which diameter do you prefer? Seeing how tubing sizes went up over the years, the reservoirs also got bigger. You still want 50mm or 60mm diameter, or would you prefer bigger diameters, like maybe 80mm?
- Ports: How many ports are you actually using on a daily basis? Where are they placed, on the top or on the bottom connector terminal? On the bottom terminal, do you rather use ports facing downwards or facing sidewards? How many are useful, and when is it just overdone?
- Additional features: Riser tubes? Preinstalled LEDs? Bubbleseperators? Helixes? Just gimmicks or must have?
- Pricing range: What do you feel is a fair price for a quality product, what feels like overpricing?

Surprise me with your ideas and thoughts about reservoirs! And we'll see, maybe someone comes up with something we never even thought about and we'll forever be in his debt...?


----------



## rj2

I have always had one wish when it came to reservoirs,and that would be a 250mm high tube res made out of 1 piece of delrin.
I only like that because my whole build is black,and i do not use colored liquid

on another subject are you aware of any north american online stores that stock this heatkiller iv black mounting plate

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18021


----------



## VSG

The reservoir geometry is not as important to me as having enough height to allow for air bubbles to form an air pocket above the coolant level and be exited to keep loop pressure near ambient and bleed it off air. Tube reservoirs inherently have an advantage here over cube or bay style reservoirs, especially with more and more cases going for less 5.25" bays.

I would like to see both acrylic and glass tube options along with end caps that have single port on the bottom, 2-3 ports on the bottom, bottom port + side ports. The end caps should be able to be used at the top or bottom of the reservoir tube interchangeably, of course. Tube lengths of 100/150/200/250mm would be nice.

As far as unique aesthetics, instead of constructing the tube of various materials why not have sleeves that can slide over the tube instead and the end caps then screw over? This way you can have different sleeves which people can use as they want.


----------



## Mads1

Was just going to order some WATERCOOL Gear from the WATERCOOL site and if i put in this code ANANDTECHWELCOME it gave me 7% off, which is a result.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rj2*
> 
> I have always had one wish when it came to reservoirs,and that would be a 250mm high tube res made out of 1 piece of delrin.
> I only like that because my whole build is black,and i do not use colored liquid
> 
> on another subject are you aware of any north american online stores that stock this heatkiller iv black mounting plate
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18021


Sounds like a nice idea, but more like a very specific niche. I will put it forward, but I'm highly sceptical that it would see the light. I will check our conditions for custom-made parts though and will come back to you. Maybe we can find an arrangement.
And no, I don't know the resellers' stocking plans. I'm afraid you'd have to ask each of them on your own, or order directly from us. (Hint: see below for a nice discount code







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The reservoir geometry is not as important to me as having enough height to allow for air bubbles to form an air pocket above the coolant level and be exited to keep loop pressure near ambient and bleed it off air. Tube reservoirs inherently have an advantage here over cube or bay style reservoirs, especially with more and more cases going for less 5.25" bays.
> 
> I would like to see both acrylic and glass tube options along with end caps that have single port on the bottom, 2-3 ports on the bottom, bottom port + side ports. The end caps should be able to be used at the top or bottom of the reservoir tube interchangeably, of course. Tube lengths of 100/150/200/250mm would be nice.
> 
> As far as unique aesthetics, instead of constructing the tube of various materials why not have sleeves that can slide over the tube instead and the end caps then screw over? This way you can have different sleeves which people can use as they want.


I really lik the sleeving idea! Sounds like an easy way to produce many different looks by changing only a small component.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Was just going to order some WATERCOOL Gear from the WATERCOOL site and if i put in this code ANANDTECHWELCOME it gave me 7% off, which is a result.


Yep, I can confirm that this discount code works. But it runs out at May, 15th, so better be quick if you wanna order something. Also, only original products are subject to discount, shipping costs are not affected.


----------



## VSG

Yeah.. It's not unique, some niche modding companies have produces sleeves for popular reservoirs already but the design and materials used for the sleeves could be unique to Watercool.


----------



## Newtocooling

I prefer tube reservoirs myself. I like 100 to 250mm height, 60mm diameter...thats what all my res mounts hold.Three ports on top help for filling,loop return, and bleeding.


----------



## Almost Heathen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*


Gorgeous









Is that Copper An or Copper Ni?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I prefer tube reservoirs myself. I like 100 to 250mm height, 60mm diameter...thats what all my res mounts hold.Three ports on top help for filling,loop return, and bleeding.


Please help me out here, I think I'm missing a point here due to language barrier (my native tongue is german, and our community developed quite some lingo







). What exactly do you mean with "bleeding"? I'm guesstimating it is "getting the fluid out of the loop", but than again, I usually do that through a T-Piece with a ball valve. Why would you need a dedicated Port in the top of your Res for that?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Almost Heathen*
> 
> Gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Copper An or Copper Ni?


It's a Copper Ni block with a nickel plated with acrylic top VRM block. I wanted the guys to do a VRM block version with a nickel plated full Copper block, but they didn't listen to me







Still, those two blocks right next to each other look superawesome. The CPU block is actually hard to capture, because it is so shiny, that some of the different angles and planes always reflects something matte. Very weird


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oh neat, there's a club for Watercool too!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> So, people, I do have a question for you: Reservoirs!
> 
> We are currently developing our new series of reservoirs, and I wanted to know what your ideas about that topic are. I'm not only interested in your own opinion, but also in what you have read in other forums, buildlogs and so on. A few things to talk about could be:
> 
> - Overall Design: Do you prefer bay reservoirs or tube reservoirs? Do you take tubes because it's virtually the only thing on the market or because you genuinely like tubes? If you want a tube, do you want the surface plain or with a desing on it? If you could go crazy and have your wish layout, what would it be? A tube? A sphere? A cube? A pentagonal pillar?
> - Material: Glass or Plexi (Acrylic glass)? Or don't you care about transparency at all and would go for, say, stainless steel?
> - Size: Which diameter do you prefer? Seeing how tubing sizes went up over the years, the reservoirs also got bigger. You still want 50mm or 60mm diameter, or would you prefer bigger diameters, like maybe 80mm?
> - Ports: How many ports are you actually using on a daily basis? Where are they placed, on the top or on the bottom connector terminal? On the bottom terminal, do you rather use ports facing downwards or facing sidewards? How many are useful, and when is it just overdone?
> - Additional features: Riser tubes? Preinstalled LEDs? Bubbleseperators? Helixes? Just gimmicks or must have?
> - Pricing range: What do you feel is a fair price for a quality product, what feels like overpricing?
> 
> Surprise me with your ideas and thoughts about reservoirs! And we'll see, maybe someone comes up with something we never even thought about and we'll forever be in his debt...?


I personally prefer tube resevoirs myself. If I were to do anything crazy, the idea of a football (possibly with etching to mimick the black and white patches, or even better, copper or Ni plated copper plates! To North Americans: Rest of the world calls it footy, or football while we're silly and call it soccer), or even a "critical hit" 20 sided die seems fun too, but I suspect the football would get more attention despite being silly









80-85mm diameter tube would be lovely, possibly with some sort of black nickel plated "cage" around it that could match the styling of the heatkiller v4 cpu blocks.

Glass with a nano coating would be nice for the material, as I absolutely love the look of no water drops!

At least two ports, preferably three on the top would be nice, in order to allow various options for tubing routing but also for things like pressure equalizer and/or bleeding excess air out of the system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Please help me out here, I think I'm missing a point here due to language barrier (my native tongue is german, and our community developed quite some lingo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). What exactly do you mean with "bleeding"? I'm guesstimating it is "getting the fluid out of the loop", but than again, I usually do that through a T-Piece with a ball valve. Why would you need a dedicated Port in the top of your Res for that?


I suspect by "Bleeding" they were referring to removing excess air from their water loop. it's usually referred to in a statement such as "I'm bleeding air bubbles out of my loop".


----------



## Newtocooling

Hi Jakob

No problem sorry my example wasn't really clear, I meant bleeding air not the fluid from the loop.





This was my last build, and I wanted a pressure valve in the highest part of the loop, but I have a thin 2 port rad up top so I used one of the ports on my res to release air.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Okay, I see. My personal approach to that is that I fill the reservoir somewhere to 3/4 to 4/5. So I intentionally leave room for some air. But thats just my personal style. But I do get your intention now, thank you both









I'm still collecting your reservoir input, so if somebody else wishes to add something to that, I'm definitely interested to hear it. BUT... there were other big news this weekend in the hardware world: nvidia unveiled the GTX 1080 and 1070







Obviously, we all watched the event, and are all very excited to get our hands on one of those gems. As you probably know, there are no presale samples for water block manufacturers, so we have to wait till May 27th as well. But initial design ideas are floating around in the offices.
Do you guys have any specific wishes concerning the two new flagships?
Obviously, we will be doing different versions of water blocks, Nickel, copper... Right now, we are oriented towards a design leaning towards the R9 Fury X blocks design. Plain design, straight lines. Since the 1080 and 1070 will be longer than the Fury X, we will also offer XL versions similar to the much appraised 980TI XL water blocks that will cover the full PCB. We will also definitely offer our new eBC backplates for those cards, but are currently still thinking about the stainless steel versions.
And I know, I know, all of you will ask me about an ETA. All I can say is: we will get our hands on them on May 27th. And the 1080 and 1070 have absolute number one top priority in all aspects of our workshop.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/plylHnwgj

https://imageshack.com/i/ipe7TdbTj

https://imageshack.com/i/ip8oy09ej

Here's mine.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> you probably know, there are no presale samples for water block manufacturers, so we have to wait till May 27th as well. But initial design ideas are floating around in the offices.
> Do you guys have any specific wishes concerning the two new flagships?
> Obviously, we will be doing different versions of water blocks, Nickel, copper... Right now, we are oriented towards a design leaning towards the R9 Fury X blocks design. Plain design, straight lines. Since the 1080 and 1070 will be longer than the Fury X, we will also offer XL versions similar to the much appraised 980TI XL water blocks that will cover the full PCB. We will also definitely offer our new eBC backplates for those cards, but are currently still thinking about the stainless steel versions.
> And I know, I know, all of you will ask me about an ETA. All I can say is: we will get our hands on them on May 27th. And the 1080 and 1070 have absolute number one top priority in all aspects of our workshop.


I think the current looks are not an issue, retail availability will be the main challenge. Some companies actually already have enough information to design blocks, be it as actual PCBs or software based files. So Watercool will have to counter this to begin with.

Having said that, I am planning to do a waterblock roundup for the GTX 1080 reference PCB so I am excited to see the offerings.


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, I see. My personal approach to that is that I fill the reservoir somewhere to 3/4 to 4/5. So I intentionally leave room for some air. But thats just my personal style. But I do get your intention now, thank you both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still collecting your reservoir input, so if somebody else wishes to add something to that, I'm definitely interested to hear it. BUT... there were other big news this weekend in the hardware world: nvidia unveiled the GTX 1080 and 1070
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously, we all watched the event, and are all very excited to get our hands on one of those gems. As you probably know, there are no presale samples for water block manufacturers, so we have to wait till May 27th as well. But initial design ideas are floating around in the offices.
> Do you guys have any specific wishes concerning the two new flagships?
> Obviously, we will be doing different versions of water blocks, Nickel, copper... Right now, we are oriented towards a design leaning towards the R9 Fury X blocks design. Plain design, straight lines. Since the 1080 and 1070 will be longer than the Fury X, we will also offer XL versions similar to the much appraised 980TI XL water blocks that will cover the full PCB. We will also definitely offer our new eBC backplates for those cards, but are currently still thinking about the stainless steel versions.
> And I know, I know, all of you will ask me about an ETA. All I can say is: we will get our hands on them on May 27th. And the 1080 and 1070 have absolute number one top priority in all aspects of our workshop.


Hi,

Maybe perhaps a full copper block AND see through acrylic for the GTX 1070 gpu (did not see that one for a gtx 970 even though i do think many will buy the gtx 1070) would be really nice like for example this one but then for a gtx 1070:

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15566

However i might go with an universal gpu solution:

HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ Core 60 DIY

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/17021

Do you know by any chance if its fully compatible with the gtx 1070/1080 cards as well if the included vrm watercooler will fit the reference cards?

Lastly the copper used is that the same for the cpu as well as for the gpu or is there a difference ie different type of copper? The reason why is i am weary for using a acrylic cpu top so one can see if its time to clean them however on a see through acrylic gpu block its hopefully less "risky" that way just by looking at it one knows its time to clean.

Your input is much appreciated thx in advance.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Here's mine.


Thanks for the share, I love seeing it in action!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Having said that, I am planning to do a waterblock roundup for the GTX 1080 reference PCB so I am excited to see the offerings.


We already have you on the radar, no worries









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra26*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Maybe perhaps a full copper block AND see through acrylic for the GTX 1070 gpu (did not see that one for a gtx 970 even though i do think many will buy the gtx 1070) would be really nice like for example this one but then for a gtx 1070:
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15566
> 
> However i might go with an universal gpu solution:
> 
> HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ Core 60 DIY
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/17021
> 
> Do you know by any chance if its fully compatible with the gtx 1070/1080 cards as well if the included vrm watercooler will fit the reference cards?
> 
> Lastly the copper used is that the same for the cpu as well as for the gpu or is there a difference ie different type of copper? The reason why is i am weary for using a acrylic cpu top so one can see if its time to clean them however on a see through acrylic gpu block its hopefully less "risky" that way just by looking at it one knows its time to clean.
> 
> Your input is much appreciated thx in advance.


Thanks for the input concerning the acrylic version of the 1070. The 970 blocks were the last blocks that went with our old design pattern. That's why they didn't get an acrylic version. There should be one for the 1070.

Concerning the HEATKILLER Core LT 60 DIY, there are two questions and two answers. First of, the Core LT is a unversal block that fits all Graphic cards with a usual width. There are extrawide cards that the Core does not support, but thos cards are rather rare. You can find a CAD drawing of it here where you can see the supported distances. For the VRM water block, you need to cut out the bottom plate yourself so that it fits the layout of your VRMs. I did this twice myself and always used stencils made from paper. It works pretty well, I'd say, but it is a Do It Yourself solution.

Yes, it is the same copper.


----------



## Cobra26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for the share, I love seeing it in action!
> We already have you on the radar, no worries
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input concerning the acrylic version of the 1070. The 970 blocks were the last blocks that went with our old design pattern. That's why they didn't get an acrylic version. There should be one for the 1070.
> 
> Concerning the HEATKILLER Core LT 60 DIY, there are two questions and two answers. First of, the Core LT is a unversal block that fits all Graphic cards with a usual width. There are extrawide cards that the Core does not support, but thos cards are rather rare. You can find a CAD drawing of it here where you can see the supported distances. For the VRM water block, you need to cut out the bottom plate yourself so that it fits the layout of your VRMs. I did this twice myself and always used stencils made from paper. It works pretty well, I'd say, but it is a Do It Yourself solution.
> 
> Yes, it is the same copper.


Thanks for the reply,

Looking forward to the see through gtx 1070 waterblocks from Watercool!

Well that cleared up the question regarding copper thx.

Going to check the layout from the universal gpu block for sure if i go the universal route.


----------



## VSG

I was at Dreamhack Austin this past weekend, and caught a sweet build in the Deepcool Tristellar Gamerstorm case with some Heatkiller parts:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was at Dreamhack Austin this past weekend, and caught a sweet build in the Deepcool Tristellar Gamerstorm case with some Heatkiller parts:


That IS a sweet build. Can you give me the name of the build or the builder so we could reference him an his build?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That IS a sweet build. Can you give me the name of the build or the builder so we could reference him an his build?


I asked the booth managers (CPU Magazine booth) but they had no idea either sadly. Whoever built this had a reservoir integrated in the front which worked out great.


----------



## Newtocooling

Has anyone used the D5 Heatkiller pump top? I'm thinking about adding a second pump to my loop for better flow rate, and I'm curious if the performance of this top is close to the old EK tops?


----------



## VSG

I haven't seen any tests of it but it does look good aesthetically, I must say.

Actually, this might help your decision (and others). I was on another forum and saw there was a discount code for the Watercool store: OCF-WELCOME. I think it is only valid here: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=296668, and based on the comments it is a 7% discount and valid till May 29, 2016. Hopefully this helps people


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I haven't seen any tests of it but it does look good aesthetically, I must say.
> 
> Actually, this might help your decision (and others). I was on another forum and saw there was a discount code for the Watercool store: OCF-WELCOME. I think it is only valid here: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=296668, and based on the comments it is a 7% discount and valid till May 29, 2016. Hopefully this helps people


As always thanks for the great tips!!!


----------



## willyum32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I will never tire of pics of the Heatkiller IV Pro.


----------



## VSG




----------



## WhiteWulfe

Niiiice. Man those blocks are rather sexy to say the least!


----------



## Newtocooling

Man I just got my two Heatkiller IV 980 Ti XL blocks and are they heavy!!!! I feel like for the first time I have GPU sag especially in the second card slot.








Does this look problematic to anyone? Should I think about getting the Heatkiller GPU bridge instead of my homemade SLI Connection, to create a stronger connection between the two cards?


----------



## willyum32

I feel you. These Heatkillers are the first watercooling products I have received and I was shocked-- literally shocked by how heavy they were. And I thought the air cooled Gigabyte G1 cards were heavy... man.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willyum32*
> 
> I feel you. These Heatkillers are the first watercooling products I have received and I was shocked-- literally shocked by how heavy they were. And I thought the air cooled Gigabyte G1 cards were heavy... man.


I might have to replace my Asus x99 deluxe with the MSI Godlike Carbon since it's has re-enforced PCIE slots!!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Man I just got my two Heatkiller IV 980 Ti XL blocks and are they heavy!!!! I feel like for the first time I have GPU sag especially in the second card slot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this look problematic to anyone? Should I think about getting the Heatkiller GPU bridge instead of my homemade SLI Connection, to create a stronger connection between the two cards?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willyum32*
> 
> I feel you. These Heatkillers are the first watercooling products I have received and I was shocked-- literally shocked by how heavy they were. And I thought the air cooled Gigabyte G1 cards were heavy... man.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I might have to replace my Asus x99 deluxe with the MSI Godlike Carbon since it's has re-enforced PCIE slots!!


Hey Guys,
I know, it looks threatening, and I understand that the initial feeling is "that cannot be safe". Let me tell you, we had a prototype of the 980TI XL water block that was full massive copper. No window. It weighed around 1,5Kg! We tested it thoroughly, and rest assured, it was absolutely no problem for the PCI-slot, all bending we saw was still within the PCI specifications. But we actually decided to not put it up for sale for exactly this reason: customers would be scared!

So, rest assured: the sag that you are seeing here is definitely not problematic.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> I know, it looks threatening, and I understand that the initial feeling is "that cannot be safe". Let me tell you, we had a prototype of the 980TI XL water block that was full massive copper. No window. It weighed around 1,5Kg! We tested it thoroughly, and rest assured, it was absolutely no problem for the PCI-slot, all bending we saw was still within the PCI specifications. But we actually decided to not put it up for sale for exactly this reason: customers would be scared!
> 
> So, rest assured: the sag that you are seeing here is definitely not problematic.


Thanks Jakob!!

You just saved me from buying a 600 motherboard!!!! By the way will the Multilink Bridge help alleviate the card sag? I would like my cards to look straight now that they have beautiful Heatkiller blocks on them.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks Jakob!!
> 
> You just saved me from buying a 600 motherboard!!!! By the way will the Multilink Bridge help alleviate the card sag? I would like my cards to look straight now that they have beautiful Heatkiller blocks on them.


The Multilink will definitely stiffen them, so they will be more parallel to each other. But The far end from the slot bracket (you know, where the power connectors usually are placed) will probably still sag a little bit...

By the way, what case are you using? Is this an inverted ATX format? I really had to think hard to understand where which component is placed in your pictures


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The Multilink will definitely stiffen them, so they will be more parallel to each other. But The far end from the slot bracket (you know, where the power connectors usually are placed) will probably still sag a little bit...
> 
> By the way, what case are you using? Is this an inverted ATX format? I really had to think hard to understand where which component is placed in your pictures


You got it right. It's a CaseLabs Th10A with a inverted motherboard. I reversed the layout after my first build in it........ What's the good of having an awesome GPU block filled with coolant, if it's pointed at the floor, and you can't even see it.









I'll post some better pics in this forum when I'm done, if it comes out the way I hope it will.


----------



## willyum32

I just inverted my case too, another advantage I feel is the gpus are better supported by the pci brackets, especially if you have a backplate, it is now sitting on the backplate rather than hanging off it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey friends,
I wanted to thank you all for your input concerning the reservoirs. Not all ideas could make it into our final product. But I'm proud to give you a first glimpse right now:
Quote:


> Product info: HEATKILLER® TUBE
> 
> Today, we can show you the first pictures of the final version of our new HEATKILLER TUBE series.
> 
> The TUBE series is a modular system of reservoirs with many options. Three standard lengths (length of tube: 100/150/200mm) are available for launch. The core piece of the reservoirs is a tube made from massive borosilicate glass. The diameter of the tube is 65mm, the wall thickness is 5mm.
> 
> The glass tube is connected to the top and the bottom via four struts on the outside made from sanded aluminum that come in black, red, blue or natural aluminum. The reservoir can be opened toolless. The huge opening in the top facilitates filling.
> 
> Additionally to the reservoirs themselves, there are also versions with preinstalled modules for integrated D5 or DDC pumps available. For smoother looks, the pump in the DDC version is fully integrated into the reservoir's design.
> 
> The integrated anti-cyclone-inlay prevents vortexes and facilitates air bleeding. We even thought about lighting it: one of the four retaining struts of the basic version is prepared for lighting equipment. It can be equipped with a LED strip to illuminate the reservoir.
> 
> There are different possibilities for mounting the reservoir to your case. It can be simply standing upright on a foot. For mounting in vertical or even horizontal orientation, there are specially designed clamp brackets. Those can be positioned in the desired height and on all four sides of the reservoir. Integrated decoupling modules prevent the vibrations of the pump to be transferred to the case.
> 
> The reservoir can be extended as wished through a coupling module. Mounting brackets for mounting on standardized 120/140 radiators will be available. A special mounting solution for the MO-RA3 radiators will be published next week.
> 
> The first pictures show only the tubes in 100 and 150mm. You can also see the DDC version. Pictures from the 200m version will be added later on.


----------



## khemist

Really like the look of those, i HAVE to pick up the DDC version.


----------



## VSG

Again, very cool









How much do the struts and mounting add to the dimensions?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oh my, those look lovely. Out of curiosity, for the ddc version does the built in mount also function as a heatsink for the pump?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Again, very cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much do the struts and mounting add to the dimensions?


Measurements are:
Diameter tube: 65mm
Length of tube: 100/150/200mm

Additional length of top: 18.5mm
Additional lenght DDC version: 47.3mm
Additional length D5 version: 73.4mm (measured till lower edge of D5)

The combined outer measurements including the struts is always 70x70mm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Oh my, those look lovely. Out of curiosity, for the ddc version does the built in mount also function as a heatsink for the pump?


THe DDC housing is made from POM, which does not function as a heatsink. But the bottom part has ventilation holes in it, pretty much as in the original DDC housing.

And I have pictures of the D5 version for you guys that I still owed you:







Finally, we recieved a lot of feedback of people who want additional 1/4 threads in the top. We are now presenting to versions and are interested in your opinion:
1. The bayonet catch gets one G1/4 port in the middle. It's also possible to mount a downpipe there to reduce dripping. (version 1A): Two or three G1/4Ports, but without the possibility of a downpipe.
2. The bayonet catch is discarded, and you get three G1/4 ports in a standard top, with downpipes includable.

Or don't you care about ports in the top and are just happy with the huge filling opening?


----------



## VSG

I think two ports (if possibly, one with the pipe but not necessary) with the bayonet catch keeps it unique and functional.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ohhhhhh my that D5 version looks downright gorgeous..... Especially since I somehow missed it before and just noticed that there will also be a MO-RA mounting solution available?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ohhhhhh my that D5 version looks downright gorgeous..... Especially since I somehow missed it before and just noticed that there will also be a MO-RA mounting solution available?


Yup. There are two threads on the back part, in the middle between the connenction terminals, of every MO-RA3 that haven't been used till now. We always wanted to us them for pump/res mounting, now this idea finally comes true. There will be a cusom made holding bracket fitting those two threads to mount any version of the HEATKILLER Tube series reservoirs directly to your MO-RA.

Just think about it: You could get the smallest m-ITX cases, slab in two HEATKILLER water blocks - and everything else will be external on your MO-RA3. I really like the idea of not needing any space for watercooling parts inside my case anymore if I want that...


----------



## VSG

The trend of external rads/reservoirs/pumps has not been seen much in North America. Keeping everything inside for aesthetics has been more important I feel. External rads are more used by benchers here, with the rads and fans near windows to get the coldest intake temps.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The trend of external rads/reservoirs/pumps has not been seen much in North America. Keeping everything inside for aesthetics has been more important I feel. External rads are more used by benchers here, with the rads and fans near windows to get the coldest intake temps.


Unsurprisingly, that's the main way I'll be using mine, since I have a nice window right behind my benching rig. Was one of the main design ideas we had when we swapped up to our new desks, truth be told.

With this new mount it is tempting to go external for the gaming and eventual boinc/folding/racing/space sim/vr right though, as two cases with the mo-ra's in between them would look pretty epic I suspect. Also might finally get some decent airflow going in our living room too


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The trend of external rads/reservoirs/pumps has not been seen much in North America. Keeping everything inside for aesthetics has been more important I feel. External rads are more used by benchers here, with the rads and fans near windows to get the coldest intake temps.


Well, I wouldn't say it's a trend in Europe or Germany. There's basically us with the MO-RA series, and Phobya with the NOVA series, which is their attempt to do a MO-RA, but cheaper, with the obvious implications for the quality. On the customerside, I'd say that around 25% of people use external radiators, the others go traditional with internal radiators. But don't get me started on the differences between the german and european scene and the northamerican. From our perspective, a couple of things that are standard in the north american community cause a lot of raised eyebrows in the german community. And probably vice versa









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Unsurprisingly, that's the main way I'll be using mine, since I have a nice window right behind my benching rig. Was one of the main design ideas we had when we swapped up to our new desks, truth be told.
> 
> With this new mount it is tempting to go external for the gaming and eventual boinc/folding/racing/space sim/vr right though, as two cases with the mo-ra's in between them would look pretty epic I suspect. Also might finally get some decent airflow going in our living room too


My personal wet dream is having two systems (in my imagination, one is for gaming/working/everyday, the other is for coinmining) with a shared reservoir and a third loop that cools both systems at once. AND I once saw a MO-RA3 360 sandwich, consisting of 2 MO-RA3 360 and 12 SIlverstone Air Penetrator 180s. It was built like: 4Fans|MO-RA1|4Fans|MO-RA2|4Fans all screwed to each other, no open spaces in between. Never saw any data how it performed, but it looked like a BEAST!

But, I wanted to share some other info with you guys: we set ourselves final deadlines for the 1080 water blocks!
Non-plated waterblocks: June 15th
Plated water blcoks: June 29th
Black eBC backplate: June 29th

The water blocks are listed in our shop as of now. Preorders are accepted as of now and *will be rewarded with a 10% discount*. From the respective release dates on, the full price will be charged.

And yes, our water blocks are 100% compatible with the new NVIDIA SLI bridges. Sometimes, waiting two weeks pays out


----------



## VSG

Oooh GTX 1080 blocks! Will there be the same style with the full length plated blocks as with the GTX 980Ti and Fury X blocks (XL blocks)? It would be nice to have renders at least for the webshop so one can tell what the block will looks like. Good job with the SLI bridge compatibility









The MO-RA3 with 180mm fans is a beast. You don't need the high speed versions even, just those Silverstone FM181 fans at 600-750 RPM does a great job and there's not much to gain at higher fan speeds with the low airflow restriction and scaling on the radiator core.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> My personal wet dream is having two systems (in my imagination, one is for gaming/working/everyday, the other is for coinmining) with a shared reservoir and a third loop that cools both systems at once. AND I once saw a MO-RA3 360 sandwich, consisting of 2 MO-RA3 360 and 12 SIlverstone Air Penetrator 180s. It was built like: 4Fans|MO-RA1|4Fans|MO-RA2|4Fans all screwed to each other, no open spaces in between. Never saw any data how it performed, but it looked like a BEAST!
> 
> And yes, our water blocks are 100% compatible with the new NVIDIA SLI bridges. Sometimes, waiting two weeks pays out


Wooohooooo, GTX 1080 blocks!

Interesting that your dream is similar to mine, although with mine there are separate loops for each rig, with the first being for gaming (unknown processor at the moment, but potentially 5820k, 6700k, or 6800k based, and having a nice 27/34/27 setup for monitors, with a 42" or 49" television above it all) and the second will be an audio/BOINC/djing/folding/racing/space sim/vr rig (running dual E5-2690v4 Xeons on an Asus Z10pe-d8, and probably 64GB of ecc ddr4-2400). Oh, and have it all in two CaseLabs SMA8's, then call the whole setup Cerberus' Armory. Just a case of taking the time to save up for all of it, as it will probably be a two year process for everything (if you include all the extras for the racing and space sim stuff, since the wheel and pedals I want aren't exactly cheap, especially from the Canadian distributor).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The MO-RA3 with 180mm fans is a beast. You don't need the high speed versions even, just those Silverstone FM181 fans at 600-750 RPM does a great job and there's not much to gain at higher fan speeds with the low airflow restriction and scaling on the radiator core.


Any word on when your review might go up for the MO-RA's? ^_^


----------



## VSG

Thankfully I am close to getting my condo floor renovations all done so I should have my photography and testing setup back again. Hopefully by this time next week fingers crossed!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thankfully I am close to getting my condo floor renovations all done so I should have my photography and testing setup back again. Hopefully by this time next week fingers crossed!


Woohoo, definitely glad to hear such as I've been looking forward to the results


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

And some new infos about the HEATKILLER® Tube series: it will be released end of June. And I brought you a couple of new pics, all from the different mounting solutions:

This is the standalone mount for placement on the ground (also visible the black struts):


This is the MO-RA3 mount:


And finally two pics from the multifunctional clamps, attached to the mounting brackets for 120mm radiators. on the second picture, you can also see the decoupling in between the two brackets:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oooh GTX 1080 blocks! Will there be the same style with the full length plated blocks as with the GTX 980Ti and Fury X blocks (XL blocks)? It would be nice to have renders at least for the webshop so one can tell what the block will looks like. Good job with the SLI bridge compatibility


The 1080 water blocks will be oriented towards our Fury X water blocks, with the same range of versions. Sadly, the 3D renderings are not cleared to publish, and the product pictures not taken yet, so you'll have to wait a couple days more...


----------



## VSG

Ah so they will cover the entire length of the PCB? It's again something I have noticed vocal complaints about from consumers, to the point where EK has changed their plexi/acryl blocks to cover the entire PCB. I feel like a see-through section for the actual coolant flow path coupled with a shroud on the outside makes most sense for those who want see-through blocks and also full length PCB coverage (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15040 and http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15037, for example). Not sure if these are the major sellers in Europe also though, I know a lot of UK customers like acetal/delrin blocks to minimize potential micro fractures around the threaded ports.

How does the de-coupling work on the reservoir multifunctional clamps? Is it a 2 piece bracket with screws in the middle or something else holding them together?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

I recieved a couple of questions in different forums, and I'm trying to keep everyone on the same level of knowledge, so I'll just answer everything everywhere







Please give me a heads-up if I missed your question!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I feel like a see-through section for the actual coolant flow path coupled with a shroud on the outside makes most sense for those who want see-through blocks and also full length PCB coverage (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15040 and http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15037, for example).


Yup, that's exactly how the 1080 blocks will look like.
Quote:


> How does the de-coupling work on the reservoir multifunctional clamps? Is it a 2 piece bracket with screws in the middle or something else holding them together?


I let pictures speak for themselves:


















And obviously, the rubber standoffs are wide enough so that no metal parts touch ech other.
Quote:


> Will the HEATKILLER® waterblock be compatible to EVGA Hydrocopper or EVGA Classified? (or any other special subbrand of any manufacturer?)


In previous GTX generations, Hydrocopper-labeled cards were usually reference PCBs, Classified-labeled cards were usualy non-reference. We guarantee our HEATKILLER® block will be compatible wih any card with a reference PCB. So, presumably, it will be compatible with the Hydrocopper, but not with the Classified. Since both cards are not released yet, we obviously haven't seen a PCB with our own eyes, so we can't tell definitely. Pleasecleck with the Compatibility list BEFORE purchasing a water block.

Quote:


> I do have a question about two pump in series solution. Have any with a reservoir in the works? Would surely keep me interested if I were to move from a dual bay res + dual pump series setup.


We are planning on new pump tops that will be in the same design as the HEATKILLER® Tube series. There will be a Dual D5 pump top. We are not sure if it will be possible to mount it directly to the res, as with the single D5, or if it will have to be seperate from the res. We are still open for wishes concerning pump tops, though! I myself am not convinced of multi-pumps and run a rather large loop with one single DDC1+T, so: if you wish for dual pump tops, do you wish those pumps to be in serial or in paralell?

We are currently recieving a lot of questions about the mounting struts of the Tube series. When ordering from our own shop, you will be able to configure exactly that singular setup of height, colors, tops and pumps that you wish for. Through our resellers, you will only get a certain set of standard variations. We are currently trying to figure out which strut- color-variation you people would like the most. Please feel free to submit your opinion in this poll in the WATERCOOL forum. All participants that voted while being logged in with a user account to our forum will go into a draw. The winner will recieve a free HEATKILLER® Tube in desired configuration (including one mounting kit of your choosing, without a pump).


----------



## VSG

Excellent news regarding the blocks and the decoupling on the reservoir mounts









Not sure why the owners of the EVGA hydrocopper will want a different block as they are paying for watercooled GPUs already, but either way this time the EVGA GTX 1080 Hydrocopper uses a non reference PCB based off their FTW PCB design from what I saw. The best guarantee from them is the Founder's Edition, basic blower version, ACX and ACX SC.

I already voted in the poll without realizing about the prize draw and I had no account. Oh well!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I already voted in the poll without realizing about the prize draw and I had no account. Oh well!


Oh well! You might get some goodies in a few weeks nonetheless, so I think, you should still be fine


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ohhhhhhh my, that MO-RA with the resevoir and D5 is gorgeous... So difficult to decide whether I like the black or red struts the most. I think I'm going to have to redesign some of my thoughts for my new desk area, because I'm fairly certain I like the idea of two MO-RA's surrounded by the cases I eventually want (CaseLabs SMA8). Oh, and pretty much all with Watercool blocks too, because they're just so downright sexy.

Even better - hubby took one look at the Watercool blocks and greatly prefers their looks over the ones from other companies ^_^


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Oh well! You might get some goodies in a few weeks nonetheless, so I think, you should still be fine


I do love goodies


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Finally, we recieved a lot of feedback of people who want additional 1/4 threads in the top. We are now presenting to versions and are interested in your opinion:
> 1. The bayonet catch gets one G1/4 port in the middle. It's also possible to mount a downpipe there to reduce dripping. (version 1A): Two or three G1/4Ports, but without the possibility of a downpipe.
> 2. The bayonet catch is discarded, and you get three G1/4 ports in a standard top, with downpipes includable.
> 
> Or don't you care about ports in the top and are just happy with the huge filling opening?


I honestly can't remember if I replied to this question or not (and a quick glance through my previous replies seems to be a "didn't really reply to it")... After seeing the pictures posted of it mounted on a radiator (inside a case) as well as the mounting on a MO-RA3, I think I'd be more than happy with how it is in it's current version, with the large bayonet catch up top. Seems like it would make filling a LOT easier, and I like the gentle/subtle branding along the top of the resevoir as well.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Definitely in for a couple of those res,very pretty,they satisfy my Watercool fix for sure. Been waiting long enough for them......now do something about your fittings?


----------



## X-Nine

Dare I say, Heatkiller is... killing it? :b

I've always been a fan, and it's great to see you guys introducing new gear. Innovation spurs competition. Your reservoir is unlike any other out there.

And just my 2 cents, multi ports on the top. They don't even need tubes into the res, so long as I have a fill port, input port and a lighting port.

But, that's just me. Really like what you guys are doing, especially lately! Keep it up!


----------



## Ypsylon

Holy Molly that's beautiful and unique in design. Owning many waterblocks from HK, time for res now.

BTW: Will you offer 120 or 140mm stands? Would be nice.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Dare I say, Heatkiller is... killing it? :b
> 
> I've always been a fan, and it's great to see you guys introducing new gear. Innovation spurs competition. Your reservoir is unlike any other out there.
> 
> And just my 2 cents, multi ports on the top. They don't even need tubes into the res, so long as I have a fill port, input port and a lighting port.
> 
> But, that's just me. Really like what you guys are doing, especially lately! Keep it up!


You need that tube to have the return feed below the waterline,if not then the res just mixes air into the coolant or froths up.

Jacob,you never have pumps in parallel,always serial.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

First of all: thank you all for your input, it is highly appreciated!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I honestly can't remember if I replied to this question or not (and a quick glance through my previous replies seems to be a "didn't really reply to it")... After seeing the pictures posted of it mounted on a radiator (inside a case) as well as the mounting on a MO-RA3, I think I'd be more than happy with how it is in it's current version, with the large bayonet catch up top. Seems like it would make filling a LOT easier, and I like the gentle/subtle branding along the top of the resevoir as well.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Dare I say, Heatkiller is... killing it? :b
> 
> I've always been a fan, and it's great to see you guys introducing new gear. Innovation spurs competition. Your reservoir is unlike any other out there.
> 
> And just my 2 cents, multi ports on the top. They don't even need tubes into the res, so long as I have a fill port, input port and a lighting port.
> 
> But, that's just me. Really like what you guys are doing, especially lately! Keep it up!


Well, I guess you can see our problem right here







We very much tend to simply do both: one version with the large bayonet catch (the one you saw on the pics) and another version with a more "classic" top with two to three G1/4 ports, so we can satisfy both groups








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need that tube to have the return feed below the waterline,if not then the res just mixes air into the coolant or froths up.
> 
> Jacob,you never have pumps in parallel,always serial.


Yup, that is the right explanation for those drop-down-tubes. (They are called "Fallröhrchen" in german (I imagine that the Ö just broke all of your UTF Coding and giggle internally about it







) and I just fail to find a better translation than "drop-down-tube". Please enlighten me: is there a specific phrase at all?)

I think I saw a rule of thumb somewhere here on OCN where someone explained that you put D5 in serial and DDCs in parallel, or the other way round. I searched for quite some time now and can't find it for the life of mine. The argument was about different pressures and volume streams. In Germany (and continental Europe) we have very different rule of thumbs, though, so I simply never ever went into the whole dual pump thing...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ypsylon*
> 
> BTW: Will you offer 120 or 140mm stands? Would be nice.


We will offer two stands. They will look like this:


They have different heights, one for the DDC version and one for the D5 version. For both of them, the holes are at 75x82mm.

Concerning the lighting port XNine talked about: As I already mentioned, the holding struts will be prepared to hold a LED strip of up to 8mm width. So, this should render the need for a top port for lighting obsolete:


----------



## VSG

Well if you add pumps in series, their head pressure is added up but the max flow remains the same whereas pumps in parallel have the same max head pressure but increased max flow. In theory, pumps in parallel make sense but in practicality only very low restriction loops are best off with pumps in parallel. Most loops are best served with higher head pressure overall, with pump tops that have a more stagnating P-Q curve such as the EK XTOP D5 (green line) here vs the XSPC and stock Laing tops:










Imagine two of those beginning at ~11 PSI and the flow restriction curve of the loop hitting it such that the loop flow rate is higher over all compared to the same flow restriction curve hitting a pump P-Q curve beginning at ~5 PSI much earlier on and not making advantage of the higher max flow rates. Martin has done a nice coverage here: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/pump-setup-series-vs-parallel/


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Dare I say, Heatkiller is... killing it? :b
> 
> I've always been a fan, and it's great to see you guys introducing new gear. Innovation spurs competition. Your reservoir is unlike any other out there.
> 
> And just my 2 cents, multi ports on the top. They don't even need tubes into the res, so long as I have a fill port, input port and a lighting port.
> 
> But, that's just me. Really like what you guys are doing, especially lately! Keep it up!
> 
> 
> 
> You need that tube to have the return feed below the waterline,if not then the res just mixes air into the coolant or froths up.
> 
> Jacob,you never have pumps in parallel,always serial.
Click to expand...

I have plenty of them laying around, which is why I don't care if the come with the reservoir (yes, this is all about ME!) also: don't be jealous that my milkshake brings all the boys to the yard.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey friends,
I can give you the first infos and show you the first pics of the new HEATKILLER® IV for the GTX 1070 and 1080. We can waive the "XL" by now, the new water blocks are released only in this form factor that covers the whole PCB.

Of course, we have the typical HEATKILLER® IV trademarks on board. These include very low restriction and elaborate cooling structure. The central flow design ensures even further reduction of restriction.

Precut thermal pads and isolating standoffs provide an easy mounting. The stainless steel frame can be removed for maintenance. A massive piece of machined acetal ensures a homogenous and even transition between the water block and the graphics card. Another highlight hides beneath this piece&#8230;

It is now possible to install a preassembled LED-strip inside of the water block! These LED-Strips are compatible to the power supply of the graphics card. We even crimped the exact matching connector to it. Hence, it can be supplied directly by the graphics card, there are no more irritating cables.
The LED Strip can be controlled via the Nvidia Geforce Experience Tool. It can be dimmed, blink or pulsate. We offer the LED-strips as additional accessories in the colors white, red and blue.

We will release other versions of the water block. Soon, we will release a nickel plated version, along with versions with black frames. A water block with Acetal Top concludes the series. Matching eBC backplates will also be released in short time.

Of course, the new HEATKILLER® IV are compatible with the new Geforce SLI-HB bridge.

And here are the pics:


----------



## willyum32

schon


----------



## VSG

Why did the central split flow design change from the previous generation? I saw Aquacomputer have a similar version but I can't figure out where the split is happening here.


----------



## khemist

Been waiting for these!, looks great.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did the central split flow design change from the previous generation? I saw Aquacomputer have a similar version but I can't figure out where the split is happening here.


Still a central split,outlet is visible on the bottom left,must be a return channel not visible from this angle.

I did this shrouded design years ago with the CLOS3 IMPACT build,seems to be very popular now,it looks so good....
This is the block for the 1080 I got at computex,end of...


----------



## Newtocooling

Beautiful blocks. Heatkiller is on FIRE!!!!


----------



## Ypsylon

What I would like for Watercool to introduce is replaceable acrylic terminals for INs/OUTs. I love that part in EK blocks. If you go acrylic block with acrylic terminal it just looks EPIC. Not a fan of POM. It's all dark and gloomy stuff.









My personal preference is always go full acrylic (of course not always possible). Recently bought new HK block for my GTX690. It weighs now as much as battleship.


----------



## BaK2BaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ypsylon*
> 
> Recently bought new HK block for my GTX690. It weighs now as much as battleship.


Heh so true!








Must be a proof of quality and ability to absorb the heat!
Had to add a support under my GTX970 block though to feel safer.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still a central split,outlet is visible on the bottom left,must be a return channel not visible from this angle.
> 
> I did this shrouded design years ago with the CLOS3 IMPACT build,seems to be very popular now,it looks so good....
> This is the block for the 1080 I got at computex,end of...


Yeah, I can see it in the second pic now. Missed that first time round.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Oh my...Beautiful block and reservoir. Love it. That reservoir not only looks gorgeous but is cleverly made.


----------



## Mads1

Is the LED block going to be released for the 980ti , my build is very close now and this is just what im looking for.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys, thanks for all the love for our new products! We are very happy to read your excitement! To your questions:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Still a central split,outlet is visible on the bottom left,must be a return channel not visible from this angle.


Exactly right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ypsylon*
> 
> What I would like for Watercool to introduce is replaceable acrylic terminals for INs/OUTs. I love that part in EK blocks. If you go acrylic block with acrylic terminal it just looks EPIC. Not a fan of POM. It's all dark and gloomy stuff.


Acrylic SLI bridge connectors are on our schedule. I have no ETA for them, though.
Quote:


> Recently bought new HK block for my GTX690. It weighs now as much as battleship.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaK2BaK*
> 
> Heh so true!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must be a proof of quality and ability to absorb the heat!
> Had to add a support under my GTX970 block though to feel safer.


I do kno that feeling. But as I said recently, the weight of our blocks is no problem for PCIe Slots (if you also use the holding screw at the case). We tested the weight, rest assured









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Is the LED block going to be released for the 980ti , my build is very close now and this is just what im looking for.


Nope, not planning that. But, our HEATKILLER® IV XL blocks have two drill holes for LEDs. They can be illuminated like this:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
a small update with a couple of scetches and plans:

I recieved multiple questions about the LED illumination on the GTX 1080/1070 blocks. It is installed under the POM block on the edge of the waterblock like this:


And here are three pictures in action:




Picture by customer


Picture by customer

Nextup, we designed the alternative top for our HEATKILLER® TUBE reservoirs. It will come with two ports and look like this:



And finally, I wanted to tell you that we are currently working on a waterblock for the AMD RX 480, and will get to a waterblock for the GTX 1060 next up.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> a small update with a couple of scetches and plans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I recieved multiple questions about the LED illumination on the GTX 1080/1070 blocks. It is installed under the POM block on the edge of the waterblock like this:
> 
> 
> And here are three pictures in action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture by customer
> 
> 
> Picture by customer
> 
> Nextup, we designed the alternative top for our HEATKILLER® TUBE reservoirs. It will come with two ports and look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, I wanted to tell you that we are currently working on a waterblock for the AMD RX 480, and will get to a waterblock for the GTX 1060 next up.


480 block coming, mmmmmmm.....


----------



## Lordevan83

I fell in love with the heatkiller IV XL blocks last year. Bought 5 of them. They are by far the best looking blocks on the market





I'm moving them to the new H frame 2.0. This time, I'm actually going to use the led holes on the bottom. Are they 3 or 5mm led? I don't want to take apart my computer to find out. Thanks.

Do you want on making cpu blocks with led holes?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ooooh that illumination is rather gorgeous! And work is happening on the gtx 1060? Sweet, I can water cool the bedroom htpc (that I'm contemplating) as well woohoo!


----------



## VSG

That does look nice


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> a small update with a couple of scetches and plans:
> 
> I recieved multiple questions about the LED illumination on the GTX 1080/1070 blocks. It is installed under the POM block on the edge of the waterblock like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here are three pictures in action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture by customer
> 
> 
> Picture by customer
> 
> 
> Nextup, we designed the alternative top for our HEATKILLER® TUBE reservoirs. It will come with two ports and look like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, I wanted to tell you that we are currently working on a waterblock for the AMD RX 480, and will get to a waterblock for the GTX 1060 next up.


simply beautiful. Amazing blocks. When the next titan comes out I will certainly go for the heatkiller blocks!!! With the new alternative top for the tubes would you guys offer an internal tube for it for those wanting to use the top as a return feed?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordevan83*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I fell in love with the heatkiller IV XL blocks last year. Bought 5 of them. They are by far the best looking blocks on the market
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm moving them to the new H frame 2.0. This time, I'm actually going to use the led holes on the bottom. Are they 3 or 5mm led? I don't want to take apart my computer to find out. Thanks.
> 
> Do you want on making cpu blocks with led holes?


The holes are for 3mm LEDs.
We currently don't have a CPU block with LED holes. However, if you order a HEATKILLER IV with acryl top through our shop, just put a special request for LED holes in the "additional infos" box throughout the ordering process. We are happy to satisfy our customers and will give you one with holes.
Additionally, there already is a Hardwareluxx.de special edition acrylic replacement top. It comes without the typical step in the top, it's just in one plane, and it already has a drill hole. Maybe that is something for you?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ooooh that illumination is rather gorgeous! And work is happening on the gtx 1060? Sweet, I can water cool the bedroom htpc (that I'm contemplating) as well woohoo!


Okay, now I'm blatantly advertising, but: why not think about getting one of our massive MO-RA3 radiators? These things are so huge that they can handle usual htpc scenarios (streaming, liestening to music) fully passive. Especially in my bedroom I would go for as-silent-as-possible, and when the only sound of your PC comes from the (throttled) waterpump, it IS silent









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> simply beautiful. Amazing blocks. When the next titan comes out I will certainly go for the heatkiller blocks!!! With the new alternative top for the tubes would you guys offer an internal tube for it for those wanting to use the top as a return feed?


Yes, an internal tube is planned. I'll keep you updated about it


----------



## Mads1

@Watercool-Jakob are we able to buy the Hardwareluxx special edition as a complete unit instead of buying the clear acryliv version then the top seperate, id be interested in some LED holes aswell, i didnt know you could request this.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, now I'm blatantly advertising, but: why not think about getting one of our massive MO-RA3 radiators? These things are so huge that they can handle usual htpc scenarios (streaming, liestening to music) fully passive. Especially in my bedroom I would go for as-silent-as-possible, and when the only sound of your PC comes from the (throttled) waterpump, it IS silent


While I love reading that the MO-RA3 would be able to passively cool an HTPC, we're steadily working on making the HTPC's in our place into backup gaming rigs for use when either friends come over to visit, or when one of our main rigs is down for maintenance or parts replacement. Hubby has also given me permission to make use of any HTPC's as BOINC rigs when they aren't in use. I love the sound of passive, but at the same time I'd be somewhat leery about passively cooling a processor that will see a 100% load on a fairly regular basis. No idea if I'll also be running BOINC on the graphics card, but I suspect that at least in the winter the graphics card (currently thinking GTX 960 or 1060 for the bedroom HTPC that I'll be building soon-ish, it will all depend on [email protected] and BOINC performance) will also be putting heat into that loop. I have a feeling that a few relatively quiet fans would be of use in such a scenario.

With noise, I live in a wood built apartment that's 55 years old, so tend to run a few fans to keep the air in our place relatively fresh, and at night a box fan runs at medium in the bedroom to mask any noises from the upstairs neighbour. I would say I don't mind a small amount of noise, provided it's consistent - both hubby and myself get this weird feeling any time we take one of the gaming rigs down for maintenance, and those aren't even really all that loud, but I suspect it's because a noise one is used to is missing.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are we able to buy the Hardwareluxx special edition as a complete unit instead of buying the clear acryliv version then the top seperate, id be interested in some LED holes aswell, i didnt know you could request this.


Um, no, we don't offer it as a complete unit at this time. But as I said, you can simply write a comment with your order and we will give you a LED hole









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> While I love reading that the MO-RA3 would be able to passively cool an HTPC, we're steadily working on making the HTPC's in our place into backup gaming rigs for use when either friends come over to visit, or when one of our main rigs is down for maintenance or parts replacement. Hubby has also given me permission to make use of any HTPC's as BOINC rigs when they aren't in use. I love the sound of passive, but at the same time I'd be somewhat leery about passively cooling a processor that will see a 100% load on a fairly regular basis. No idea if I'll also be running BOINC on the graphics card, but I suspect that at least in the winter the graphics card (currently thinking GTX 960 or 1060 for the bedroom HTPC that I'll be building soon-ish, it will all depend on [email protected] and BOINC performance) will also be putting heat into that loop. I have a feeling that a few relatively quiet fans would be of use in such a scenario.
> 
> With noise, I live in a wood built apartment that's 55 years old, so tend to run a few fans to keep the air in our place relatively fresh, and at night a box fan runs at medium in the bedroom to mask any noises from the upstairs neighbour. I would say I don't mind a small amount of noise, provided it's consistent - both hubby and myself get this weird feeling any time we take one of the gaming rigs down for maintenance, and those aren't even really all that loud, but I suspect it's because a noise one is used to is missing.


Well, just strap some fans to your MO-RA and have them controlled depending on water temperature. That is what I do in my personal rig. I use four 180mm Silverstone Air penetrator SST-AP181. They don't move while idling, streaming, browsing. When I put some load on my i5-6600k (4,5GHz) and my R9 290 (1200MHz), those put some heat into the water. when the water temp reaches 33°C, the fans start spinning with minimum rpm, and go up to full speed at 38°C. But even after three horus of Furmark and Prime95, they never went beyond 600rpm at ~36° water temp - so I'm having plenty of cooling capacity that goes unused right now


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well, just strap some fans to your MO-RA and have them controlled depending on water temperature. That is what I do in my personal rig. I use four 180mm Silverstone Air penetrator SST-AP181. They don't move while idling, streaming, browsing. When I put some load on my i5-6600k (4,5GHz) and my R9 290 (1200MHz), those put some heat into the water. when the water temp reaches 33°C, the fans start spinning with minimum rpm, and go up to full speed at 38°C. But even after three horus of Furmark and Prime95, they never went beyond 600rpm at ~36° water temp - so I'm having plenty of cooling capacity that goes unused right now


True enough. We'll see which route I go. I'm contemplating a few different ideas with the bedroom HTPC, including watercooling a few ODroid C2's (probably/potentially four) alongside an i7-6700k and a GTX 1060... Just a case of doing some planning first. A MO-RA3 with fans running even at a low speed would also hopefully help with overall airflow in the bedroom too. I think my biggest potential "reservation" is whether to go with an external radiator or two smaller 240mm radiators, and keep everything inside the case itself. It's something I'll have to look into, and think about, but I definitely do prefer the idea of having overkill with reserves over "just enough".

Oh, and of course the case I'm contemplating for all of that (potentially a CaseLabs X2M) would have a nice ensemble of Heatkiller parts, even if a waterblock on certain things is definitely overkill (I just don't want the devices to throttle like they're known to with the stock heatsink, especially when running BOINC 24/7 on them)


----------



## Newtocooling

Quick question for you Heatkiller IV CPU blocks owners...... Do you guys tighten the block until you're at the end of the threads? I just don't want to damage the MB pins.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quick question for you Heatkiller IV CPU blocks owners...... Do you guys tighten the block until you're at the end of the threads? I just don't want to damage the MB pins.


until the normal force of my thumb and finger have a hard time turning any further. Usually the spring start doing some noises like will snap


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

We completely redid our mounting system for the HK IV. Our intention was to get rid of exactly this confusion of "till only a slice of paper fits in between the springs" or other fuzzy descriptions. That's why there are different studs and bolts for the different sockets, to take the differing specifications of the sockets in account. So, please tighten the screws until they are locked. You will feel this very easily, There just comes the point where the screw hits the end of the thread. You will then have optimaql pressure of the water block to the CPU within the specifications given by intel and AMD.

Acutally, I think our new system is pretty foolproof. What is your opinion on it?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We completely redid our mounting system for the HK IV. Our intention was to get rid of exactly this confusion of "till only a slice of paper fits in between the springs" or other fuzzy descriptions. That's why there are different studs and bolts for the different sockets, to take the differing specifications of the sockets in account. So, please tighten the screws until they are locked. You will feel this very easily, There just comes the point where the screw hits the end of the thread. You will then have optimaql pressure of the water block to the CPU within the specifications given by intel and AMD.
> 
> Acutally, I think our new system is pretty foolproof. What is your opinion on it?


I love my CPU block it does seem full proof. Now please just get the 1080 back plates in stock and ship my order!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> until the normal force of my thumb and finger have a hard time turning any further. Usually the spring start doing some noises like will snap


Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Now please just get the 1080 back plates in stock and ship my order!!


GREAT NEWS!!! So, We had quite a story with those backplates: after they had been milled on our very own machinery park, we sent them to a subcontractor who does the powder coating and nickel plating for us. This contractor suddenly ran into problems with their staff. I don't know the details, but basicly, the remaining people in their workshop had to do double shifts and still couldn't get our order done in time. When they finaly had the complete first batch of backplates done, they sent them back to us. And guess what? DHL lost the complete shipment! They just didn't know where the F our complete first batch of backplates was! They just frigging LOST it! So, you can imagine that we did file quite some reports and flooded them with investigation tickets, and lo and behold, just one week later, they finally found our shipment and delivered it to us this morning. So, today we gathered everyone in the workshop who didn't do something bsolutely essential to unpack our shipment and send out the dozens and dozens of orders that were only waiting for these very backplates. We sent out the vast majority of open orders today, and will send out the remaining few first thing tomorrow before noon.

And from then on, we should be in our normal production cycle and have everything stocked for future orders.

We are stoked and want to thank of all you, because pretty much our complete first batch of both water blocks and backplates for the 1080 were sold out way before they were even completely produced. YOu guys exceeded our expectations by A LOT, and we are very happy about it. Now, we just hope that you will just be as happy about your products when they arrive


----------



## VSG

Congratulations on the successful launch!


----------



## Mads1

Thats good news that they found them, well done for getting them out aswell,
Will you be doing any nickel versions of the backplate for the 1080, If so how long do you reckon before we see these.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> GREAT NEWS!!! So, We had quite a story with those backplates: after they had been milled on our very own machinery park, we sent them to a subcontractor who does the powder coating and nickel plating for us. This contractor suddenly ran into problems with their staff. I don't know the details, but basicly, the remaining people in their workshop had to do double shifts and still couldn't get our order done in time. When they finaly had the complete first batch of backplates done, they sent them back to us. And guess what? DHL lost the complete shipment! They just didn't know where the F our complete first batch of backplates was! They just frigging LOST it! So, you can imagine that we did file quite some reports and flooded them with investigation tickets, and lo and behold, just one week later, they finally found our shipment and delivered it to us this morning. So, today we gathered everyone in the workshop who didn't do something bsolutely essential to unpack our shipment and send out the dozens and dozens of orders that were only waiting for these very backplates. We sent out the vast majority of open orders today, and will send out the remaining few first thing tomorrow before noon.
> 
> And from then on, we should be in our normal production cycle and have everything stocked for future orders.
> 
> We are stoked and want to thank of all you, because pretty much our complete first batch of both water blocks and backplates for the 1080 were sold out way before they were even completely produced. YOu guys exceeded our expectations by A LOT, and we are very happy about it. Now, we just hope that you will just be as happy about your products when they arrive


I also had blue struts in that order, are they still on back order Too? I'm glad you guys got the situation fixed!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Thats good news that they found them, well done for getting them out aswell,
> Will you be doing any nickel versions of the backplate for the 1080, If so how long do you reckon before we see these.


Uhm, as I just explained, nickel plated or powder coated products are... well, we had multiple different problems with these item categories in the past, and now DHL offered a NEW problem related to those products. We are currently discussing exactly those nickel plated backplates (me personally, I want one, too!), and we should see a decision within the next two weeks.

Now, friends,
we recieved a lot of different questions about "will you support custom design XY for the GTX 1080/1070"? The answer is a definite "yes, but...". We definitely want to support some custom PCB layouts, but we are currently undecided which ones. And that's where I'm asking for your input: Which 1080/1070 custom PCB layout would you like to see supported by WATERCOOL? Please provide an argument for the custom design of your choosing.


----------



## VSG

The most popular ones will be Asus Strix, MSI Gaming X and Gigabyte G1, followed by EVGA FTW (esp in the US). The EVGA FTW will get a AIO and also a full cover block as well soon via EVGA so the demand will be down soon.


----------



## Lordevan83

I think the new Pascal Titan X is being released next week. When do you think the waterblocks for that will come out?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

ASUS Strix PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEE. I don't wanna go EK...


----------



## rioja

Any news about these pictures I found on watercool site





No any news or announces, so quietly added photos









And will acetal version fit there too?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Newsletter 08/2016
Quote:


> *HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 available*
> 
> All versions of the HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 are now available, including the matching backplate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new water block features a slick look, high quality materials, excelent performance and offers even more: for example, it is fully compatible to NVIDIAs new SLI-HB bridge. Furthermore, we found a great new solution for illumination. We now have LED strips available that can be connected directly to the LED port of the graphics card. Not only is this reducing cable routing issues, but it's also possible to control the illumination of the water block directly through NVIDIAs Geforce Experience software.
> 
> Both the water block and the backplate are compatible to all GTX 1080 Founders Edition and GTX 1070 Founders Edition cards.
> 
> Grab yours here!
> 
> *Waterblocks for ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 available*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We now offer a waterblock for the voltage regualtion modules of the ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10. As with all new waterblocks of the HEATKILLER® MB-X series, the
> HEATKILLER® MB-X VRM ASUS RAMPAGE V will be available with a top made from acrylic glass. Additionally, we now also offer dark acrylic glass.
> 
> Grab yours here!
> 
> *MultiPort top for HEATKILLER® Tube series*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Answering the great demand, we now offer a matching MultiPort top for our HEATKILLER® Tube series reservoirs. It is now possible to connect the reservoir to the loop via the top. A matching stand pipe is part of the delivery scope.
> 
> Grab yours here!
> 
> *HEATKILLER® IV CPU series performs greatly in recent reviews*
> 
> As in previous tests, our HEATKILLER® IV performed greatly in the latest two tests. We want to share those results with you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first test was from german hardware site computerbase.de . The testing staff was so enthusiastic about both the performance and the workmanship of the HEATKILLER® IV that they gave it their only buy recommendation.
> 
> read more at www.computerbase.de
> 
> The second test was done by reviewstudio.net . The HEATKILLER®IV reached top notes in this test, too, and recieved three awards.
> 
> read more at www.reviewstudio.net
> 
> *What's next?*
> 
> We are currently working on waterblocks for the Radeon RX 480 and for the new TITAN X.
> 
> Stay tuned!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Any news about these pictures I found on watercool site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No any news or announces, so quietly added photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And will acetal version fit there too?


Yeah, we were quicker with adding the articles than with the newsletter. Apparently







Yes, the acetal version fits, too. No, we will not make a waterbock for the chipset, because the preinstalled heatsinks are more than sufficient for those very small (and efficient) chips.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Absolutely love the look of those gpu blocks...! And man, just when I thought I could finally get away from the Rampage V Extreme Edition 10,you guys come out with a much nicer vrm compared to the competition.... Now I'm contemplating that incredibly expensive board again!


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Absolutely love the look of those gpu blocks...! And man, just when I thought I could finally get away from the Rampage V Extreme Edition 10,you guys come out with a much nicer vrm compared to the competition.... Now I'm contemplating that incredibly expensive board again!


Agree prob best gpu block out there, im just waiting for the nikel version backplates for them, as my new case has been cut, and about to do a test fit in the next week or two.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Agree prob best gpu block out there, im just waiting for the nikel version backplates for them, as my new case has been cut, and about to do a test fit in the next week or two.


Hum, I'm not sure that this approach will end satisfactory for you. As I told you guys before, we used to have problems with the subcontractors who did the plating for us, with some, it was quality issues, with others, it was reliability... It fianlly seems, we found someone who can satisfy our quality demands, stay within the given timeframe AND offer us a reasonable pricing range. So, right now, we are testing out a bunch of layouts and procedures to see if a nickel plated backplate can be achieved. The problem is that aluminium, the material of the backplate, can not be plated with nickel. First, they need to apply a very thin copper layer onto the aluminium, which then can be plated with a first layer of dull nickel and THEN, in a third step, be plated with the high gloss nickel that we all wish for. As you can see, this is way more complicated than the usual copper-based plating, and more complicated always means more expensive for the customer, essentially. So, yeah, right now, we are trying to figure out how we can simplify this process, so we can offer the plated backplate for a reasonable price.

So, in summary, I would suggest you order the blocks as you like them regardless the backplate. You can, however, install the backplate onto the graphics card afterwards, if we find a reasonable way to offer it.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hum, I'm not sure that this approach will end satisfactory for you. As I told you guys before, we used to have problems with the subcontractors who did the plating for us, with some, it was quality issues, with others, it was reliability... It fianlly seems, we found someone who can satisfy our quality demands, stay within the given timeframe AND offer us a reasonable pricing range. So, right now, we are testing out a bunch of layouts and procedures to see if a nickel plated backplate can be achieved. The problem is that aluminium, the material of the backplate, can not be plated with nickel. First, they need to apply a very thin copper layer onto the aluminium, which then can be plated with a first layer of dull nickel and THEN, in a third step, be plated with the high gloss nickel that we all wish for. As you can see, this is way more complicated than the usual copper-based plating, and more complicated always means more expensive for the customer, essentially. So, yeah, right now, we are trying to figure out how we can simplify this process, so we can offer the plated backplate for a reasonable price.
> 
> So, in summary, I would suggest you order the blocks as you like them regardless the backplate. You can, however, install the backplate onto the graphics card afterwards, if we find a reasonable way to offer it.


I'l just get the one you do now, no biggy hopefully by next GEN cards it will be sorted


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hum, I'm not sure that this approach will end satisfactory for you. As I told you guys before, we used to have problems with the subcontractors who did the plating for us, with some, it was quality issues, with others, it was reliability... It fianlly seems, we found someone who can satisfy our quality demands, stay within the given timeframe AND offer us a reasonable pricing range. So, right now, we are testing out a bunch of layouts and procedures to see if a nickel plated backplate can be achieved. The problem is that aluminium, the material of the backplate, can not be plated with nickel. First, they need to apply a very thin copper layer onto the aluminium, which then can be plated with a first layer of dull nickel and THEN, in a third step, be plated with the high gloss nickel that we all wish for. As you can see, this is way more complicated than the usual copper-based plating, and more complicated always means more expensive for the customer, essentially. So, yeah, right now, we are trying to figure out how we can simplify this process, so we can offer the plated backplate for a reasonable price.
> 
> So, in summary, I would suggest you order the blocks as you like them regardless the backplate. You can, however, install the backplate onto the graphics card afterwards, if we find a reasonable way to offer it.


Can steel be directly plated with no additional steps? I realize it is more expensive than aluminum, but it is also stronger. So perhaps because of the additional strength, you can mitigate the cost by using a thinner piece? And if it can be plated directly then it saves money on that process too which should make it comparable cost wise to an aluminum version.

I already got an answer that the Titan Pascal water block is in development, but do you have any estimate for when it might be released?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hum, I'm not sure that this approach will end satisfactory for you. As I told you guys before, we used to have problems with the subcontractors who did the plating for us, with some, it was quality issues, with others, it was reliability... It fianlly seems, we found someone who can satisfy our quality demands, stay within the given timeframe AND offer us a reasonable pricing range. So, right now, we are testing out a bunch of layouts and procedures to see if a nickel plated backplate can be achieved. The problem is that aluminium, the material of the backplate, can not be plated with nickel. First, they need to apply a very thin copper layer onto the aluminium, which then can be plated with a first layer of dull nickel and THEN, in a third step, be plated with the high gloss nickel that we all wish for. As you can see, this is way more complicated than the usual copper-based plating, and more complicated always means more expensive for the customer, essentially. So, yeah, right now, we are trying to figure out how we can simplify this process, so we can offer the plated backplate for a reasonable price.
> 
> So, in summary, I would suggest you order the blocks as you like them regardless the backplate. You can, however, install the backplate onto the graphics card afterwards, if we find a reasonable way to offer it.
> 
> 
> 
> Can steel be directly plated with no additional steps? I realize it is more expensive than aluminum, but it is also stronger. So perhaps because of the additional strength, you can mitigate the cost by using a thinner piece? And if it can be plated directly then it saves money on that process too which should make it comparable cost wise to an aluminum version.
> 
> I already got an answer that the Titan Pascal water block is in development, but do you have any estimate for when it might be released?
Click to expand...

Steel is not more expensive than aluminum, and in apples to apples comparison weighs about twice as much as aluminum at the same quantity. It also does not disperse heat will as aluminum.

When you have a waterblock that already weighs a few pounds, adding another 1/2 pound for a backplate isn't ideal.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hum, I'm not sure that this approach will end satisfactory for you. As I told you guys before, we used to have problems with the subcontractors who did the plating for us, with some, it was quality issues, with others, it was reliability... It fianlly seems, we found someone who can satisfy our quality demands, stay within the given timeframe AND offer us a reasonable pricing range. So, right now, we are testing out a bunch of layouts and procedures to see if a nickel plated backplate can be achieved. The problem is that aluminium, the material of the backplate, can not be plated with nickel. First, they need to apply a very thin copper layer onto the aluminium, which then can be plated with a first layer of dull nickel and THEN, in a third step, be plated with the high gloss nickel that we all wish for. As you can see, this is way more complicated than the usual copper-based plating, and more complicated always means more expensive for the customer, essentially. So, yeah, right now, we are trying to figure out how we can simplify this process, so we can offer the plated backplate for a reasonable price.
> 
> So, in summary, I would suggest you order the blocks as you like them regardless the backplate. You can, however, install the backplate onto the graphics card afterwards, if we find a reasonable way to offer it.


Any news on the next batch of back-plates to be in stock on your shop. As typical i went to order and there out of stock...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Can steel be directly plated with no additional steps? I realize it is more expensive than aluminum, but it is also stronger. So perhaps because of the additional strength, you can mitigate the cost by using a thinner piece? And if it can be plated directly then it saves money on that process too which should make it comparable cost wise to an aluminum version.


Back in the day, we did steel backplates. Those were only for structural strengthening. We overthrew that concept with the Generation of Fury X and GTX 980, because nowadays components on graphics cards tend to get so hot that they actually benefit from additional cooling on the backside of the card. Now, we make our backplates from aluminium and thermaly connect them to the backside of the GPU, VRMs and (depending on model) RAM modules to provide this additional cooling. This functional effect would disappear if we changed back to steel.
Quote:


> I already got an answer that the Titan Pascal water block is in development, but do you have any estimate for when it might be released?


Very rough guesstimation: Late August / early September.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Steel is not more expensive than aluminum, and in apples to apples comparison weighs about twice as much as aluminum at the same quantity. It also does not disperse heat will as aluminum.
> 
> When you have a waterblock that already weighs a few pounds, adding another 1/2 pound for a backplate isn't ideal.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Any news on the next batch of back-plates to be in stock on your shop. As typical i went to order and there out of stock...


Yup. Will be listed as "in stock" monday around midday (german time).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hello all! I need some help in choosing the proper Heatkiller CPU block.

Note that I am also still somewhat new to watercooling but would like to change out the CPU block on my Swiftech AIO for something better. I am looking at getting the Heatkiller IV Pro but I am not sure which version works best.
First my guess is to stay away from the nickel plated copper one because I use Mayhems XT-1 in my loop and am in understanding that it does not work well with nickel plated metals. I was thinking the all copper one but I like the looks of the acrylic one and both the acetal ones.
I am wondering if there are differences in performance and lifespan between the different units.

What do you all suggest?

I have installed the Primochill UV bright blue tubing with some angled compression fittings. I am only cooling the CPU with this unit and when I was OCing this 4930k my temps were. Low 30's at idle and mid 50's to mid 60's under load at 4.3 ghz. Right now I am at stock CPU speeds and I run in the high 20's for daily use.
FYI my 4930k is limited to 4.3 ghz max as it BSOD's within minutes when stress testing at 4.4ghz and may run 20 mins until a BSOD when not stress testing. I lost the silicon lottery with this chip. But it runs great at 4.3ghz 24/7 with no issues at all. .


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hello all! I need some help in choosing the proper Heatkiller CPU block.
> 
> Note that I am also still somewhat new to watercooling but would like to change out the CPU block on my Swiftech AIO for something better. I am looking at getting the Heatkiller IV Pro but I am not sure which version works best.
> First my guess is to stay away from the nickel plated copper one because I use Mayhems XT-1 in my loop and am in understanding that it does not work well with nickel plated metals. I was thinking the all copper one but I like the looks of the acrylic one and both the acetal ones.
> I am wondering if there are differences in performance and lifespan between the different units.
> 
> What do you all suggest?
> 
> I have installed the Primochill UV bright blue tubing with some angled compression fittings. I am only cooling the CPU with this unit and when I was OCing this 4930k my temps were. Low 30's at idle and mid 50's to mid 60's under load at 4.3 ghz. Right now I am at stock CPU speeds and I run in the high 20's for daily use.
> FYI my 4930k is limited to 4.3 ghz max as it BSOD's within minutes when stress testing at 4.4ghz and may run 20 mins until a BSOD when not stress testing. I lost the silicon lottery with this chip. But it runs great at 4.3ghz 24/7 with no issues at all. .


Nickel is fine with Mayhems coolants, and actually I would recommend Mayhems X1 over XT-1 anyway unless you have subzero ambients in your computer room often. There is no real difference between the various versions of the Heatkiller IV Pro, aside from aesthetics. The Heatkiller IV Basic is a different design, less expensive and less performance.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nickel is fine with Mayhems coolants, and actually I would recommend Mayhems X1 over XT-1 anyway unless you have subzero ambients in your computer room often. There is no real difference between the various versions of the Heatkiller IV Pro, aside from aesthetics. The Heatkiller IV Basic is a different design, less expensive and less performance.


So stay away from the basic....lol. It seems the only ones I can find for my aging socket 2011 chip are the "copper & nickel" and the "pure copper". The nickel one will probably look better in my case but the copper may not look bad either. There was something I read about the nickel plating flaking off over time and disturbing the flow of the coolant. The copper corroded where the nickel flaked off though I am not definite it was with a Mayhems product.

The XT-1 I am using has been working great so far over the last 4 or 5 months since I started using it. Though TBH I did have an issue with some old Danger Dan UV tubing turning green which is when I got the Primoflex tubing. At first I thought it was the XT-1 causing the discoloration but it turns out it was just simply old tubing. I got it for a huge discount off an online store that had shut down more than a year prior to me ordering it.....lol. Consequently the Razor UV LEDs I got really cheap from the same sight work perfectly!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So stay away from the basic....lol. It seems the only ones I can find for my aging socket 2011 chip are the "copper & nickel" and the "pure copper". The nickel one will probably look better in my case but the copper may not look bad either. There was something I read about the nickel plating flaking off over time and disturbing the flow of the coolant. The copper corroded where the nickel flaked off though I am not definite it was with a Mayhems product.
> 
> The XT-1 I am using has been working great so far over the last 4 or 5 months since I started using it. Though TBH I did have an issue with some old Danger Dan UV tubing turning green which is when I got the Primoflex tubing. At first I thought it was the XT-1 causing the discoloration but it turns out it was just simply old tubing. I got it for a huge discount off an online store that had shut down more than a year prior to me ordering it.....lol. Consequently the Razor UV LEDs I got really cheap from the same sight work perfectly!


XT-1 uses a glycol based composition which helps for anti-freeze properties, but also means it isn't very environmentally friendly and is not compatible with some materials used in this hobby. It is really best for low ambient conditions only, and no more.

I have had no issues with Watercool's nickel plating at all, but yeah the coolant and other materials used also contribute to it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> XT-1 uses a glycol based composition which helps for anti-freeze properties, but also means it isn't very environmentally friendly and is not compatible with some materials used in this hobby. It is really best for low ambient conditions only, and no more.
> 
> I have had no issues with Watercool's nickel plating at all, but yeah the coolant and other materials used also contribute to it.


So just to be on the safe side I will stay away from the nickel plated one.

Do you know of anywhere I can get the clear acrylic version of the Heatkiller IV Pro?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So just to be on the safe side I will stay away from the nickel plated one.
> 
> Do you know of anywhere I can get the clear acrylic version of the Heatkiller IV Pro?


I think you just have to request that the stainless steel top cover is not installed in an acrylic top when placing an order directly from Watercool.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think you just have to request that the stainless steel top cover is not installed in an acrylic top when placing an order directly from Watercool.


ah yes, direct from Germany shipping costs and all...lol.
I was hoping for someplace a little closer to home, but if that is the only place I can get an acrylic one then it will have to do.


----------



## VSG

Seems Performance PCs carries it: http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seems Performance PCs carries it: http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html


That's odd I checked earlier and they only had the copper/nickel and the all copper ones in stock....
Awesome thanks for the link!


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So just to be on the safe side I will stay away from the nickel plated one.
> 
> Do you know of anywhere I can get the clear acrylic version of the Heatkiller IV Pro?


https://modmymods.com/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html

IDK if you need a special backplate for mounting that to a socket 2011 or not, says on the product page that works for 2011 but if that is true why are there also other models that look different that specifically say socket 2011 in the product name? IDK. I bet you can get a real answer for sure on that blocks compatibility from our awesome hardware rep though


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Bit of a silly question... Think a MO-RA3 Pro (probably the 9x140 version) would be able to handle the heat of four Xeons plus two AMD RX480's running 24/7 on various BOINC projects? Guessing that would also be a two pump kind of job too, given that there would be four cpu blocks and of course the gpu blocks?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So stay away from the basic....lol. It seems the only ones I can find for my aging socket 2011 chip are the "copper & nickel" and the "pure copper". The nickel one will probably look better in my case but the copper may not look bad either. There was something I read about the nickel plating flaking off over time and disturbing the flow of the coolant. The copper corroded where the nickel flaked off though I am not definite it was with a Mayhems product.


In pretty much any case we heard about nickel plating corrossion or even flaking off, the people either used a silver kill coil or copper sulfate as an additive. Both methods are well known to be extremely risky and damaging to nickel components. Please see here or here for further information on this matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> https://modmymods.com/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html
> 
> IDK if you need a special backplate for mounting that to a socket 2011 or not, says on the product page that works for 2011 but if that is true why are there also other models that look different that specifically say socket 2011 in the product name? IDK. I bet you can get a real answer for sure on that blocks compatibility from our awesome hardware rep though


That's because we offer two versions of every HEATKILLER® IV: AMD or Intel. In the Intel version, we include mounting solutions for Socket 115X, 1366 AND 2011(-3). So we don't specify the Intel socket in the article's name, because we include every (modern) socket in the delivery scope. You can see the mounting material (along with an excellent review) for example at thermalbench.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Bit of a silly question... Think a MO-RA3 Pro (probably the 9x140 version) would be able to handle the heat of four Xeons plus two AMD RX480's running 24/7 on various BOINC projects? Guessing that would also be a two pump kind of job too, given that there would be four cpu blocks and of course the gpu blocks?


Depends on your noise tolerance








I learned that in the american community, the general rule of thumb is "one 120mm fan rad space per water block plus one more for good measure". That would mean you'd need 7 120mm fans rad space, htat's roughly the same as 5 140mm fans. My understanding is that people use 1500-2000rpm fans in this calculation.
The european community calculates 100W per 120mm fan space. You didn't specify the Xeons, so I'll just assume them with 150W each, and the RX 480 also with 150W, making a total of 900W. That would sum up to 9 120mm fans rad space, assuming 1000rpm max. So yes, I'm pretty confident that a MO-RA 3 420 could handle your setup. And yes, We are still looking for a setup that can really bring this beast to its limits









Please be aware that the only difference between the 420 LT and the 420 PRO is the additional fan mounting bracket. The LT is layed out for nine 140mm fans, the PRO has the additional bracket on the other side and thusly can be equipped with eighteen 140mm fans. I guess you should be fine with the LT, actually.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Depends on your noise tolerance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I learned that in the american community, the general rule of thumb is "one 120mm fan rad space per water block plus one more for good measure". That would mean you'd need 7 120mm fans rad space, htat's roughly the same as 5 140mm fans. My understanding is that people use 1500-2000rpm fans in this calculation.
> The european community calculates 100W per 120mm fan space. You didn't specify the Xeons, so I'll just assume them with 150W each, and the RX 480 also with 150W, making a total of 900W. That would sum up to 9 120mm fans rad space, assuming 1000rpm max. So yes, I'm pretty confident that a MO-RA 3 420 could handle your setup. And yes, We are still looking for a setup that can really bring this beast to its limits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please be aware that the only difference between the 420 LT and the 420 PRO is the additional fan mounting bracket. The LT is layed out for nine 140mm fans, the PRO has the additional bracket on the other side and thusly can be equipped with eighteen 140mm fans. I guess you should be fine with the LT, actually.


Noise tolerance is something I would put at moderate to a decent amount, provided it's a steady and constant source. For example, EVGA acx fans on a 780 Classified I can handle on 90% without issue, but get an 8800 GTX with a blower and man its annoyingly loud once it goes past 70%. We also tend to have 2-3 fans going at all times in the living room in order to keep fresh air in our place (poorly designed 55 year old apartment complex) as well as keep the overall temperature of our place down, so there's usually that noise.

For fans, I was contemplating either the Corsair ML140's as I can pick them up locally (although one side of a MO-RA3 being filled will cost $240ish CAD (four of the two fan packs at $50 each, and a single at $30 I think it was, plus 5% GST)), or I was potentially considering the nine pack of fans that you guys sell... I was planning on using an Aquaero 6 Pro or XT (haven't decided if I want touch or not yet) to control fan speeds based upon temperature deltas.

As for the Xeons I'm planning on they're the E5-2670 SR0KX ones that are so prevalent right now for incredibly cheap prices, so I think those were 115w TDP but can't remember precisely at this time. Some projects put out a rather hefty heat load (SRBase and PrimeGrid come to mind - SRBase can make my 4770k at stock speeds push upwards of 80C per core with a Cryorig R1 Ultimate cooling it on a case I didn't really optimize for airflow) but other projects I run don't put as much of a load on things ([email protected] comes to mind)

With the MO-RA3 and Pro vs LT, I lean more towards the pro just because of two simple things: aesthetics (hey, it's symmetrical if you have the fan covers on) and the possibility to go push/pull if I so desire (but with my current "main" fan I'm looking at, that would be $450 CAD in fans before taxes! )


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> For fans, I was contemplating either the Corsair ML140's as I can pick them up locally (although one side of a MO-RA3 being filled will cost $240ish CAD (four of the two fan packs at $50 each, and a single at $30 I think it was, plus 5% GST)), or I was potentially considering the nine pack of fans that you guys sell... I was planning on using an Aquaero 6 Pro or XT (haven't decided if I want touch or not yet) to control fan speeds based upon temperature deltas.


Yeah... I run a MO-RA 360, and I went and equipped it with four 180mm fans instead nine 120mm fans (I decided for the SIlverstone Air Penetrators). I chose that because it reduces costs a lot, you only need four instead of nine, and it reduces noise level. I am a silent fanatic :> I dont really know though if there are decent 210mm fans out there, never really investigated that size of fans. But maybe that's an alternative for you?
As for the bundle, I would recommend the Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK2 instead of the PK3. The PK2 spin at 1200rpm max, the PK3 go up to 1700rpm. I don't think you will ever need so high rpms. I guess that you will rather have them spin with ~900rpm, so use the PK2, bcause that will produce less dissipation at the aquaero. If you just make a comment in the ordering process that you wish for the PK2 instead the PK3, it should be no problem at all.
As for the aquaero, I personally chose the aquaero 5 LT. In my opinion, the display is just a gimmick and absolutely not relevant for everyday use. I have the aquasuite in autostart, so if I want to check something, I can do it software-wise. But the 5LT costs ~a third of what the 6ers cost...
Quote:


> With the MO-RA3 and Pro vs LT, I lean more towards the pro just because of two simple things: aesthetics (hey, it's symmetrical if you have the fan covers on) and the possibility to go push/pull if I so desire (but with my current "main" fan I'm looking at, that would be $450 CAD in fans before taxes! )


Hey, go for it, my boss will be more than happy if I sell you the PRO







But I totally see your point of fan costs...


----------



## muzammil84

Hi all, just wanted to share my new project, WATERCOOL(ed) to the max.

this is what's at the back of case:



MoRa 2 core(will put 9x120mm fans on it).

and this is what I'm trying to fit onto the front:



MoRa 3 pro(also 9 fans)

of this:











never done before in Core P5 so keep fingers crossed.
My goal is 25°C max water temp(with MoRa2, Nemesis GTS 480 ans Ex360 max temp was 27.8).
Also I'm running Heatkiller IV pro acrylic version for cpu and two Watercool D5 pump tops to get through these "babies".

sorry if OT, not many ppl seemed to show their projects off so not sure if this is a pic thread or only manufacturer news on products?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> sorry if OT, not many ppl seemed to show their projects off so not sure if this is a pic thread or only manufacturer news on products?


Oh don't be sorry! I can only talk for myself, but I'd LOVE to see more WATERCOOL gear in action! And I'm genuinely interested in seeing how your specific project will work out. Right now, I actually can't imagine where you wanna place the MO-RA 3, so please post updates of this project!


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Oh don't be sorry! I can only talk for myself, but I'd LOVE to see more WATERCOOL gear in action! And I'm genuinely interested in seeing how your specific project will work out. Right now, I actually can't imagine where you wanna place the MO-RA 3, so please post updates of this project!


no problem, got it on last night:
really tight fit, absolutely no gap between rad and mobo







a thing of beauty, I love it already. Waiting for my two Heatkiller D5 tops, I wishe they were also available in clear plexi version.
stay cooled, I mean tuned


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> no problem, got it on last night:
> really tight fit, absolutely no gap between rad and mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a thing of beauty, I love it already. Waiting for my two Heatkiller D5 tops, I wishe they were also available in clear plexi version.
> stay cooled, I mean tuned


That MoRa is huge, looking forward to see the temps you get on that system


----------



## VSG

Wow, this is really nice. Good luck on the 25 C coolant temp goal, I am curious as well.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So stay away from the basic....lol. It seems the only ones I can find for my aging socket 2011 chip are the "copper & nickel" and the "pure copper". The nickel one will probably look better in my case but the copper may not look bad either. There was something I read about the nickel plating flaking off over time and disturbing the flow of the coolant. The copper corroded where the nickel flaked off though I am not definite it was with a Mayhems product.
> 
> The XT-1 I am using has been working great so far over the last 4 or 5 months since I started using it. Though TBH I did have an issue with some old Danger Dan UV tubing turning green which is when I got the Primoflex tubing. At first I thought it was the XT-1 causing the discoloration but it turns out it was just simply old tubing. I got it for a huge discount off an online store that had shut down more than a year prior to me ordering it.....lol. Consequently the Razor UV LEDs I got really cheap from the same sight work perfectly!
> 
> 
> 
> XT-1 uses a glycol based composition which helps for anti-freeze properties, but also means it isn't very environmentally friendly and is not compatible with some materials used in this hobby. It is really best for low ambient conditions only, and no more.
> 
> I have had no issues with Watercool's nickel plating at all, but yeah the coolant and other materials used also contribute to it.
Click to expand...

Personally, I won't use anything that's ethylene glycol based. It has zero anti-algae properties, it's bad for the environment, pets, kids, it's hard to dispose of (legally and responsibly). But I think we've had that talk before, lol.

I've been using Mayhem's on my nickel blocks for over a year, still running great, haven't even had to drain the loop yet.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> no problem, got it on last night:
> really tight fit, absolutely no gap between rad and mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a thing of beauty, I love it already. Waiting for my two Heatkiller D5 tops, I wishe they were also available in clear plexi version.
> stay cooled, I mean tuned


Wow, I'm hooked! Where do you place your reservoir? And which one are you using? And what will the graphics card water block look like? And I'm really digging the whit mouning brackets on the HEATKILLER IV! How did you do it? Is it just paint?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Wow, I'm hooked! Where do you place your reservoir? And which one are you using? And what will the graphics card water block look like? And I'm really digging the whit mouning brackets on the HEATKILLER IV! How did you do it?


I used 20mm standoffs supplied with radiator(so there's a gap between radiator and case). I'm waiting for MoRa front grill and will place a reservoir on it. reservoir is made by Barrows(it's got gold metal caps which is my pc theme colour). For gpu I'm using EK block unfortunately as it's the only manufacturer making blocks for custom pcb(Watercool need to start doing custom pcb, you loose a lot of clients, most of ppl go for stronger versions of gpus than reference). I'm totally in love with 980ti nickel full pcb block but I'm using Gigabyte G1 980ti, if you tell me I can fit the block on it I'm ordering it tomorrow


----------



## rioja

Speaking about HEATKILLER® MB-X VRM ASUS RAMPAGE V - ACETAL NI



(which in German version stated as VRM Wasserkühler für ASUS RAMPAGE V EXTREME *und RAMPAGE V EDITION 10* )

I'd like to ask is it possible to get those title "Heatkiller" inverted, for those who use reverse cpu layout?


----------



## muzammil84

little update for my build:



my first WATERCOOL disappointment







the top on the right has got much whiter/stronger printing on it, left seems faded. Both ordered from Aquatuning in same order.

Question to Jakob: how come these got past quality check? I'm not gonna open an RMA ticket with Aquatuning, send it back to Germany and wait God knows how long for replacement, however my next watercooling gear has to be rethought twice as Watercool is not an obvious choice anymore


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> little update for my build:
> 
> 
> 
> my first WATERCOOL disappointment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the top on the right has got much whiter/stronger printing on it, left seems faded. Both ordered from Aquatuning in same order.
> 
> Question to Jakob: how come these got past quality check? I'm not gonna open an RMA ticket with Aquatuning, send it back to Germany and wait God knows how long for replacement, however my next watercooling gear has to be rethought twice as Watercool is not an obvious choice anymore


I think that's a little harsh just for the writing...


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yeah... I run a MO-RA 360, and I went and equipped it with four 180mm fans instead nine 120mm fans (I decided for the SIlverstone Air Penetrators). I chose that because it reduces costs a lot, you only need four instead of nine, and it reduces noise level. I am a silent fanatic :> I dont really know though if there are decent 210mm fans out there, never really investigated that size of fans. But maybe that's an alternative for you?
> As for the bundle, I would recommend the Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPRO PK2 instead of the PK3. The PK2 spin at 1200rpm max, the PK3 go up to 1700rpm. I don't think you will ever need so high rpms. I guess that you will rather have them spin with ~900rpm, so use the PK2, bcause that will produce less dissipation at the aquaero. If you just make a comment in the ordering process that you wish for the PK2 instead the PK3, it should be no problem at all.
> As for the aquaero, I personally chose the aquaero 5 LT. In my opinion, the display is just a gimmick and absolutely not relevant for everyday use. I have the aquasuite in autostart, so if I want to check something, I can do it software-wise. But the 5LT costs ~a third of what the 6ers cost...
> Hey, go for it, my boss will be more than happy if I sell you the PRO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I totally see your point of fan costs...


The 180mm fans are tempting especially because of the reasons you've mentioned, but I'm somewhat leery to go with that size as it hasn't seen as much development as 120mm and 140mm fans have. Or maybe it's the fact I like the look of a 3x3 grid of fans, that might be the other reason ^_^;;;

Time will have to tell what I wind up running, especially since I found out that I probably won't be able to run the gpus in that crazy setup I'm contemplating (my memory of how the circuits are in the living room doesn't match how they actually are, so to run the full meal deal I'd have to get creative with thick extension cords)

I'll definitely keep the various fan recommendations in mind, and as for the Aquaero I'll probably still go with a 6 series even if it's more expensive because I've always wanted to put an LCD into a case, especially if I can get it to play well as an actual LCD display. Or I'll just go old school and use one from Matrix Orbital as an info scroll for the BOINC work units.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think that's a little harsh just for the writing...


writing is actually the easiest to wipe off/reprint in manufacturing process.
Watercool products are slightly more expensive than other brands because of their quality. If you charge more than your competition, better product is expected.
I'm gonna place these pump tops next to each other and it's not too harsh to complain about them not looking the same. Product was sold at regular price but it's a B-grade to me.
Watercooling products are made to look good, ppl pay thousands of £/€/$ to have a perfect look, if you buy two identical reservoirs from Bitspower, you want them to be identical, not one less clear than other etc.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I'm totally in love with 980ti nickel full pcb block but I'm using Gigabyte G1 980ti, if you tell me I can fit the block on it I'm ordering it tomorrow


Nope, we don't offer a water block for this specific card, I'm sorry. We are, however, looking for a custom layout for the 1080 to support.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Speaking about HEATKILLER® MB-X VRM ASUS RAMPAGE V - ACETAL NI
> 
> 
> 
> (which in German version stated as VRM Wasserkühler für ASUS RAMPAGE V EXTREME *und RAMPAGE V EDITION 10* )
> 
> I'd like to ask is it possible to get those title "Heatkiller" inverted, for those who use reverse cpu layout?


You are right, this water block is compatible to ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V EXTREME, ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V EXTREME/U3.1, and ASUS ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10. We will fix the poduct description. When in doubt, you can always check our Motherboard Compatibility list that is also linked in my sig to see if there is a waterblock for your motherboard.

Concerning the inverted writing: we always strive for happy customers and are happy to fulfill small extra wishes. Just put a comment in the checkout process during the "check and order" step, there is a comments field. Inverting the logo is no problem at all, we'll just do that for free. We even could do customized designs, but that would come with a small fee, depending on the compexity of the design.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> my first WATERCOOL disappointment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the top on the right has got much whiter/stronger printing on it, left seems faded. Both ordered from Aquatuning in same order.
> 
> Question to Jakob: how come these got past quality check? I'm not gonna open an RMA ticket with Aquatuning, send it back to Germany and wait God knows how long for replacement, however my next watercooling gear has to be rethought twice as Watercool is not an obvious choice anymore


Well, this discoloration comes from the original POM that is used. There are certain industry standards that the material has to meet, and rest assured, we only accept raw materials that meet those standards. But these standards do have some leeway. Sadly, it seems that you received two pump tops that were produced from two different batches of POM that were relatively far away from each other within this leeway. So, both products are technically fine and do meet our quality standards. But I can absolutely understand that they are unsatisfying when placed next to each other in a build that aims for a specific look. I'll send you a PM to see if we can find a way to compensate you.


----------



## StreekG

Currently upgrading my loop for hard tubing, but Heatkiller 3.0 1366 here.


----------



## muzammil84

received my grill today.
I don't like the look of that outlet on topvof the rad so I'm gonna use longer standoffs to move MoRa further away form the case so I can use fitting behind radiator. Tight fit, it literally is gonna touch gpu...


----------



## LiquidHaus

glad to see a heatkiller group here. funny that i've missed it all this time till now lol.

I love heatkiller/watercool the most.

I had my four 7970s on their blocks. I miss em.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StreekG*
> 
> Currently upgrading my loop for hard tubing, but Heatkiller 3.0 1366 here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> glad to see a heatkiller group here. funny that i've missed it all this time till now lol.
> 
> I love heatkiller/watercool the most.
> 
> I had my four 7970s on their blocks. I miss em.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you both for the pics, I love to see how the customers use and arrange our products!

Then, I have two other news for you guys:

*1. New product branch announced*
I don't know if you noticed, but I'm an eager fighter against silver kill coils. This led to a couple of discussions, both in this thread and in other support threads I run, about appropriate fluids, additives in the water, corrossion and how to keep your components healthy. We waived our older recommendation concerning additives earlier this year. So, we already were in the process of rethinking our position concerning coolants, distilled water and additives. But the way those discussions went in the last few weeks, we decided that in the future, WATERCOOL will offer our own brand of coolant! So, thank you all for your input and for your constructive criticism, it was heard and gave us the final push to start developing a completeley new branch of products. Obviously, I have not even a rough ETA, because we first need to define which abilities our coolant shall have, find chemists who can do the actual mixing for us, test and review the different prototypes and so on and so on, but I'll keep you updated!

*2. GTX 1080 custom PCB layouts*
We recieved a LOT of requests to support certain custom PCBs. We never did this before, but decided to give it a try with the GTX 1080/1070 generation. Obviously, we cannot support any and every custom PCB, so to find our first candidate, We would like to know your preferences. Please take part in this quick survey so we can cater for your actual needs. Your input is very much appreciated!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ouch, not much love for the msi gaming x compared to the EVGA ftw in that poll... Then again, knowing me I'd buy either of them when I upgrade to the 1080 line.


----------



## VSG

That poll may be skewed by the lack of any blocks for the EVGA FTW though, EK's is due mid Sept so it will affect the results. I still think it should go Asus Strix- MSI Gaming - Gigabyte G1 in that order.

Nice to hear about new coolants coming up. Please have it Glycerol based and not Ethylene/Propylene glycol based. The one thing really missing (for now) is an additive concentrate to add to distilled water and make a clear coolant with anti-microbial and anti-corrosive properties.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That poll may be skewed by the lack of any blocks for the EVGA FTW though, EK's is due mid Sept so it will affect the results. I still think it should go Asus Strix- MSI Gaming - Gigabyte G1 in that order.
> 
> Nice to hear about new coolants coming up. Please have it Glycerol based and not Ethylene/Propylene glycol based. The one thing really missing (for now) is an additive concentrate to add to distilled water and make a clear coolant with anti-microbial and anti-corrosive properties.


I'll second the additive that keeps a coolant clear, but provide the benefits additives give. There's just something about clear water loops, especially when done well!


----------



## Jokesterwild




----------



## muzammil84

update:
I've made a platform for my D5s yesterday, added 2mm silicone sheet on it for decoupling, shame these D5 tops don't offer any built-in decoupling solution(i must say I LOVE how they made it in EK D5 revo top-the pump stays silent even @ 100%).
Anyway, they seem quite happy together down there:


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thank you both for the pics, I love to see how the customers use and arrange our products!
> 
> Then, I have two other news for you guys:
> 
> *1. New product branch announced*
> I don't know if you noticed, but I'm an eager fighter against silver kill coils. This led to a couple of discussions, both in this thread and in other support threads I run, about appropriate fluids, additives in the water, corrossion and how to keep your components healthy. We waived our older recommendation concerning additives earlier this year. So, we already were in the process of rethinking our position concerning coolants, distilled water and additives. But the way those discussions went in the last few weeks, we decided that in the future, WATERCOOL will offer our own brand of coolant! So, thank you all for your input and for your constructive criticism, it was heard and gave us the final push to start developing a completeley new branch of products. Obviously, I have not even a rough ETA, because we first need to define which abilities our coolant shall have, find chemists who can do the actual mixing for us, test and review the different prototypes and so on and so on, but I'll keep you updated!
> 
> *2. GTX 1080 custom PCB layouts*
> We recieved a LOT of requests to support certain custom PCBs. We never did this before, but decided to give it a try with the GTX 1080/1070 generation. Obviously, we cannot support any and every custom PCB, so to find our first candidate, We would like to know your preferences. Please take part in this quick survey so we can cater for your actual needs. Your input is very much appreciated!


Jakob,

This is all great news. In my opinion - I would personally run all of your products in our systems we sell at Xidax, which I am manager of the watercooling department. If my purchasing director permits an email or two, I would like to get with you or whoever - in respect - at Watercool and see what we can do in terms of bulk pricing. So hearing about progress is always a great thing for a company.

On the subject of custom 1080 PCB layouts....

I am all for this. Everyday we have customers call in, requesting AIB cards from various manufacturers because for some, reference cards just aren't what they are looking for. And I cannot blame them. I run a Zotac Amp Extreme 1070 in my personal system, and if there was a waterblock available for it, I'd be wanting to put those cards in every system I build for our customers.

I appreciate the fact that you guys are trying the custom PCBs out with this Pascal generation. I do understand it would be a tedious task, however I believe it'll be worth it in the end.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*


Is it some custom top for Heatkiller 4?

I wonder how much alternative tops exist for it, this Darkside and Hardwareluxx plexi I saw in original webstore


----------



## Newtocooling

My 1080 backplate came with thermal pads, but the instructions don't say where they go?

Never mind found the answer on line


----------



## EniGma1987

Titan X pascal cards listed!







 Already got my order in
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserkühler/GPU_Kuehler/"TITAN%20X%20%28Pascal%29"


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Is it some custom top for Heatkiller 4?
> 
> I wonder how much alternative tops exist for it, this Darkside and Hardwareluxx plexi I saw in original webstore


Same top just custom logo for dazmode brand Darkside.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Titan X pascal cards listed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already got my order in
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserkühler/GPU_Kuehler/"TITAN%20X%20%28Pascal%29"


Hey! That'swhat I wanted to say!









Yeah guys, our waterblocks for the TITAN X (Pascal) are listed and can be ordered right now! We added a 10% discount again for all preorders. The copper versions will be available on september 2nd and the nickel versions on September 16th. On those respective dates, the 10% discount will also be void, obviously...


----------



## muzammil84

it's alive. Only one quick photo after filling the loop but it looks ridiculous, overkill to the max, gotta love steroids


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 
> 
> it's alive. Only one quick photo after filling the loop but it looks ridiculous, overkill to the max, gotta love steroids


Looks awesome!


----------



## muzammil84

Received a little git from Watercool and Jakob, looks like I'm gonna overdose coffeine soon








Thanks so much!


----------



## Madmaxneo

@Watercool-Jakob You mentioned the Heatkiller IV Pro clean Acrylic would work on modern intel boards. But I need to know if this would work on an socket 2011 (not a v3 board) board? If not what adapter would I need to make it work?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob You mentioned the Heatkiller IV Pro clean Acrylic would work on modern intel boards. But I need to know if this would work on an socket 2011 (not a v3 board) board? If not what adapter would I need to make it work?


Mounting material for the Sockets 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, *2011*, 2011-3 is included in the delivery scope. So yes, it will work just fine


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Mounting material for the Sockets 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, *2011*, 2011-3 is included in the delivery scope. So yes, it will work just fine


Awesome!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Mounting material for the Sockets 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, *2011*, 2011-3 is included in the delivery scope. So yes, it will work just fine


Silly question, but I have to ask anyways out of curiosity for my benching rig..... Are LGA 775 mounts available by chance? I know it's an older socket, but it's still rather popular with benchers ^_^;;;;;;


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Nope, sadly we do not support LGA 775 with the HK IV.


----------



## Lordevan83

this might have been asked already, but do u guys plan to make blocks for non reference 1080?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordevan83*
> 
> this might have been asked already, but do u guys plan to make blocks for non reference 1080?


We never did blocks for non-reference cards. With the 1080 generation, we decided to overthink this strategy and to try and do something non-reference. We are currently in the design stage for EVGA FTW cards. Depending on how sales are going with that block, we might do ASUS STRIX next up.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We never did blocks for non-reference cards. With the 1080 generation, we decided to overthink this strategy and to try and do something non-reference. We are currently in the design stage for EVGA FTW cards. Depending on how sales are going with that block, we might do ASUS STRIX next up.


That'd be great! Might have to snag a 1080 FTW now when I sell my Zotac 1070. Don't let me down, Jakob!


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We never did blocks for non-reference cards. With the 1080 generation, we decided to overthink this strategy and to try and do something non-reference. We are currently in the design stage for EVGA FTW cards. Depending on how sales are going with that block, we might do ASUS STRIX next up.


Thats awesome! Ek has been taking up the market due to providing more options of for non reference cards, im glad you guys are at least doing something about it. Its tricky on which nonreference to go with especially when aib vendors have at more than one non reference cards.


----------



## Lordevan83

That's awesome to hear. How soon can we anticipate the release of the EVGA FTW blocks? Any chance they would be released this Month or is thanksgiving more realistic goal?


----------



## Eh23

Hey Jakob, is there an ETA for backplates for the Titan X Pascal?

Thanks.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordevan83*
> 
> That's awesome to hear. How soon can we anticipate the release of the EVGA FTW blocks? Any chance they would be released this Month or is thanksgiving more realistic goal?


Might want to clarify whether Canadian (October) or American (November) thanksgiving, as that could affect things


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> That'd be great! Might have to snag a 1080 FTW now when I sell my Zotac 1070. Don't let me down, Jakob!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Thats awesome! Ek has been taking up the market due to providing more options of for non reference cards, im glad you guys are at least doing something about it. Its tricky on which nonreference to go with especially when aib vendors have at more than one non reference cards.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordevan83*
> 
> That's awesome to hear. How soon can we anticipate the release of the EVGA FTW blocks? Any chance they would be released this Month or is thanksgiving more realistic goal?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Might want to clarify whether Canadian (October) or American (November) thanksgiving, as that could affect things


Hey guys, our current release schedule looks like this. Please note that the further in the future we go, the fuzzier the dates become









Titan X Pascal: Copper versions end of this week, Nickel versions ~16.9. - 19.9.

EVGA FTW: End of September, early October

ASUS Strix: After that







But definitely before Christmas, probably even before December

And somewhere in between, we'll start a completely new branch of products... Beware, spoilers to come








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eh23*
> 
> Hey Jakob, is there an ETA for backplates for the Titan X Pascal?
> Thanks.


Yup. Already done







. The 1080 eBC backplate is compatible to the Titan X water block.


----------



## VSG

Why have one MORA when you can have TWO?





Top is a stainless steel MORA3 140/180 (latest revision) and the bottom is a black MORA3 140 (older revision). There have been some silent revisions in the MORA radiators, including the mounting system.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> EVGA FTW: End of September, early October


Alright Jakob,

I got this thing because you guys are making a block for it lol.



Do you have any renders of what it'll look like? Or will it be like the reference (FE) 1080 blocks?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We never did blocks for non-reference cards. With the 1080 generation, we decided to overthink this strategy and to try and do something non-reference. We are currently in the design stage for EVGA FTW cards. Depending on how sales are going with that block, we might do ASUS STRIX next up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Alright Jakob,
> I got this thing because you guys are making a block for it lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any renders of what it'll look like? Or will it be like the reference (FE) 1080 blocks?


Awesome! Will you also be making a block for the Ti's when they come out? If so how long do you think it will take to get them into sales?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why have one MORA when you can have TWO?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top is a stainless steel MORA3 140/180 (latest revision) and the bottom is a black MORA3 140 (older revision). There have been some silent revisions in the MORA radiators, including the mounting system.


Ahhhhhh, was wondering what gears were turning in the skunkworks keeping your review at bay. I'm still curious as all sin about your thoughts on it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ahhhhhh, was wondering what gears were turning in the skunkworks keeping your review at bay. I'm still curious as all sin about your thoughts on it


I gave up finally trying to get the compression seals off for a good look at the core. So I took some final pics, and I am ready to write up now.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I gave up finally trying to get the compression seals off for a good look at the core. So I took some final pics, and I am ready to write up now.


Glad to hear!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Alright Jakob,
> 
> I got this thing because you guys are making a block for it lol.
> 
> [img*]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2868768/[/img]
> 
> Do you have any renders of what it'll look like? Or will it be like the reference (FE) 1080 blocks?


It will pretty much look like the reference blocks. We are very happy with the current optical design (and judging by the feedback that reaches us, the customers are so, too), so the changes will all be rather minor to accomodate the different component placement on the PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Awesome! Will you also be making a block for the Ti's when they come out? If so how long do you think it will take to get them into sales?


With both the 780 and 980 generations, the blocks for the Titans were always also compatible to the Ti Editions. Our best guess is that Nvidia kept this scheme. If they actually should have changed it, we will probably make a new waterblock for the Ti. But we expect the Titan Pascal block to be compatible to a 1080 Ti.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I gave up finally trying to get the compression seals off for a good look at the core. So I took some final pics, and I am ready to write up now.


Cool, we are very interested in your thoughts


----------



## VSG

The thoughts are ready to be read now


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The thoughts are ready to be read now


Love it, and glad to see the variety of thoughts, especially the addition of the comparison against 560mm radiators. Definitely solidifies my idea of two of them for the BOINC rig (there's an aesthetics reason due to a build idea, not necessarily overall heat dissipation) as well as on the benching rig.

I also want to add in that one of the guys on our benching team whos going to the HWBot World Tour finals in Germany (marc_0053) uses three of the MO-RA3's when benching on water. ^_^


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Love it, and glad to see the variety of thoughts, especially the addition of the comparison against 560mm radiators. Definitely solidifies my idea of two of them for the BOINC rig (there's an aesthetics reason due to a build idea, not necessarily overall heat dissipation) as well as on the benching rig.
> 
> I also want to add in that one of the guys on our benching team whos going to the HWBot World Tour finals in Germany (marc_0053) uses three of the MO-RA3's when benching on water. ^_^


Marc is who I was thinking of when I mentioned the dual MO-RA3s, I dind't realize he had gone on to 3 of them


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Marc is who I was thinking of when I mentioned the dual MO-RA3s, I dind't realize he had gone on to 3 of them


I think he picked the third up last summer, but I might be wrong on the time table ^_^


----------



## marc0053

I use 3x for my main rig (phobya 1080 + MO-RA 3 Pro + MO-RA 420 PRO) and 2x outside (2X MO-Ra 3 PRO) in the garage for the winter benching








1 is enough for a cpu and adding more doesn't help for either the i7 6700k or i7 6950x but the GPU load temps drop for every rad I add to the loop.
Don't mind the mess.


----------



## VSG

Oh my


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The thoughts are ready to be read now


Hey, great to see the final results! I love it








We will discuss your results back in the office and share our feedback with you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I use 3x for my main rig (phobya 1080 + MO-RA 3 Pro + MO-RA 420 PRO) and 2x outside (2X MO-Ra 3 PRO) in the garage for the winter benching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 is enough for a cpu and adding more doesn't help for either the i7 6700k or i7 6950x but the GPU load temps drop for every rad I add to the loop.
> Don't mind the mess.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, those are impressive rigs! Thanks for sharing


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Such a tough call as to whether I prefer the black core or the aluminum core... Wonder if all black is an option?

Additionally, I went to take a look at some of the product on the webstore, but when clicking the "Shop" tab from the main page I get this error message:


----------



## VSG

Yeah they are aware of the issues with the webshop.

All black would be nice.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah they are aware of the issues with the webshop.
> 
> All black would be nice.


I have to say... Given my idea (that seems to get even crazier with each iteration of my plan) I could probably work with the stainless steel, but there's just something to me about the whole blacked out look that I've always loved.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I have to say... Given my idea (that seems to get even crazier with each iteration of my plan) I could probably work with the stainless steel, but there's just something to me about the whole blacked out look that I've always loved.


The stainless steel with all-black core looks amazing in person, you won't regret it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The stainless steel with all-black core looks amazing in person, you won't regret it.


But, but.... All the black in my place!







It would definitely pull off the industrial complex / skyrise/skyscraper kind of look a lot better than the black with 'raw' aluminum would. I have a simple way to solve this! Benching rig will get the black one, BOINC rig will get dual stainless ^_^;;;;


----------



## LiquidHaus

I decided it was best to include Watercool into our show system I'm building here at Xidax. Here is a quick two shots of the basement and how it sits at the moment.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> But, but.... All the black in my place!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would definitely pull off the industrial complex / skyrise/skyscraper kind of look a lot better than the black with 'raw' aluminum would. I have a simple way to solve this! Benching rig will get the black one, BOINC rig will get dual stainless ^_^;;;;


Dont forget the mirror finish on the stainless steel version. It'll force a cleanup of the area


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Dont forget the mirror finish on the stainless steel version. It'll force a cleanup of the area


It would be sandwiched between my djing and benching gear, and then add in that I'll be moving my miniatures workstation into the same region of the desk as well..... That area is in an almost perpetual state of messyness >.>;;;;;;


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Additionally, I went to take a look at some of the product on the webstore, but when clicking the "Shop" tab from the main page I get this error message:
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870688/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


Yep, the hoster for our shop had some problems with DNS routing yesterday. To our knowledge, those issues should be resolved since early this morning (european time). If anybody still has problems to reach the shop, please let me know immediately so I can fry the techies at our hoster









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I decided it was best to include Watercool into our show system I'm building here at Xidax. Here is a quick two shots of the basement and how it sits at the moment.
> 
> [*img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870711/[/img]
> 
> [*img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2870712/[/img]


Wow, that sure looks nice! Please keep us updated about the progress, I'd love to see how you put things together


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yep, the hoster for our shop had some problems with DNS routing yesterday. To our knowledge, those issues should be resolved since early this morning (european time). If anybody still has problems to reach the shop, please let me know immediately so I can fry the techies at our hoster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, that sure looks nice! Please keep us updated about the progress, I'd love to see how you put things together


Well.... at least on my side, I still can't get into the shop page.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Still have webshop errors on my end when using Chrome Version 52.0.2743.116 m, however FireFox 48.0.2 pulled up the web store.


----------



## VSG

Do a CTRL + F5 and see. It works fine for me here on Chrome.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do a CTRL + F5 and see. It works fine for me here on Chrome.


No dice on my end, but given that FireFox works I'm suspecting it's that I need to restart Chrome. Tried forced refresh on main page, as well as the link when you get the error message.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

The hoster of our webshop changed an IP under which the shop can be reached. Sometimes, different DNS servers take differently long time to refresh their rerouting lists. When running windows, you can open the command prompt (execute cmd.exe), then type "ipconfig /flushdns", that forces the DNS to refresh.

Please let me know if you tried this and still encounter a problem.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Here are those Heatkiller pump tops in all their glory


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi all, just wanted to share my new project, WATERCOOL(ed) to the max...


I want to do something along those lines, replace all my kit with Watercool. Their products are so quality, just a pleasure to own. Just have to decide between external setup with MO-RA3 or use their internal rads. Wish they did a full line of fittings I could access.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I want to do something along those lines, replace all my kit with Watercool. Their products are so quality, just a pleasure to own. Just have to decide between external setup with MO-RA3 or use their internal rads. Wish they did a full line of fittings I could access.


I would totally recommend to go for the MO-RA. You get the better performance, it's easier to run the tubes inside the case, it's way easier to change cases later on...

Concerning the fittings: Currently, we do not plan to start our own line of fittings. 2016 is booked out with other projects, and for 2017, we have one MAJOR new project, involving probably 20 new products. So, IF we should EVER start to think about producing fittings, don't expect them before 2018. So, yeah, go ahead, buy other fittings in the meantime


----------



## LiquidHaus

Will memory waterblocks be possible in the future?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

*Product Announcement:*

Today, we'd like to introduce our new HEATKILLER® IV for RX 480 water block series. There are several different versions available. For the top, you can choose between transparent acrylic glass, and an opaque top made from black POM. For the cooling plate, you can chooese between pure electrolyte copper, or copper with a durable glossy nickel plating.

But aesthetics left aside, the new water blocks also score with their performance. An elaborate micro cooling structure boosts the performance, while the central flow channel reduces restriction. Of course, the new water blocks also actively cool the RAM modules and the voltage regulation modules.

Mounting the new block is done with isolating spacers. Precut thermal pads for the RAM and VRM are part of the delivery scope.
The transparent top comes with multiple drill holes for 3mm LEDs to perfectly illuminate your new block.

The new HEATKILLER® IV for RX 480 is compatible to all Radeon RX 480 in reference PCB layout. When in doubt, please check our GPU compatibility list.



























































































Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Will memory waterblocks be possible in the future?


No, we will not go into this direction. Modern day RAM sticks are very effective and don't need any cooling whatsoever. Even the heatsinks the most premium sticks came with are 99% aesthetics. WATERCOOL is an engineer-driven company, meaning we want things to be efficient and productive. Seeing that watercooling RAM is only for aesthetics and looks, and seeing that there are so many awesome custom PCB graphics card we don't support yet, and seeing that we want to expand our product portfolio to another very important branch, we don't think it's right for us to invest a lot of time and energy in the development of RAM watercooling.


----------



## VSG

Why is that one VRAM contact copper instead of nickel plated copper everywhere else? Just curious. They look fantastic!


----------



## sli_shroom

seksi


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Wow, those are some incredibly sexy waterblocks, and one of the first I'd seriously consider with a clear top!


----------



## paskowitz

Quick question, is there a recommended or required orientation for the HK IV Pro CPU block?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Quick question, is there a recommended or required orientation for the HK IV Pro CPU block?


goofy is best.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> goofy is best.


Using results from ThermalBench's review, I would argue to just go for whichever works best for routing. The difference between the two mounting styles are virtually identical.... 0.08C difference between the deltas on a 4770k, and a 0.12C difference when using a 5960X. A tenth of a degree Celsius isn't going to make much of a difference in the real world. In both cases, this slight difference was towards mounting the cpu block normally.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Using results from ThermalBench's review, I would argue to just go for whichever works best for routing. The difference between the two mounting styles are virtually identical.... 0.08C difference between the deltas on a 4770k, and a 0.12C difference when using a 5960X. A tenth of a degree Celsius isn't going to make much of a difference in the real world. In both cases, this slight difference was towards mounting the cpu block normally.


You're probably right. In the past I have always seen graphs indicating goofy to be slightly better.

But yes, I would say as well that one should mount it however is best for routing lines.

Sometimes people do forget though that cpu blocks have an in/out though, so yeah just mount it however you want, making sure you have your routing so that the in is used as an in and not an out.


----------



## paskowitz

So basically I could cough on my computer and make up the difference. Got it. Thanks.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Sometimes people do forget though that cpu blocks have an in/out though, so yeah just mount it however you want, making sure you have your routing so that the in is used as an in and not an out.


Really? I honestly do not think it matters what way you set it up. I have taken apart my cpu block for cleaning and from what I can tell it does not matter which port is used for in and which is used for out.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Really? I honestly do not think it matters what way you set it up. I have taken apart my cpu block for cleaning and from what I can tell it does not matter which port is used for in and which is used for out.


It doesn't matter with some blocks with just a cross-pin matrix but it will affect flow in blocks with central split via jetplates or similar.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It doesn't matter with some blocks with just a cross-pin matrix but it will affect flow in blocks with central split via jetplates or similar.


Interesting to know, Do the blocks that have this actually indicate which is in and which is out? Does the Heatkiller IV Pro have this?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Interesting to know, Do the blocks that have this actually indicate which is in and which is out? Does the Heatkiller IV Pro have this?


If you have taken the blocks apart, you can tell. The HK IV Pro does indeed have this:







Notice how one port is closer to the center and that leads to a channel which in turn takes the coolant towards the middle to be split? That is the designated inlet port. Some blocks will have markings such as "In" or have arrows as with the HK IV Pro, others mention this on the product page or manual.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Interesting to know, Do the blocks that have this actually indicate which is in and which is out? Does the Heatkiller IV Pro have this?


yes, the one closer to the middle is in.


----------



## paskowitz

Well that's convenient, as that is the way I wanted to arrange/orientate it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I had done an experiment with my sig rig years ago to see if this in/out situation made a difference - at least in my rig - either with flow or temperature. I had been running AIDA's burn test while checking flow rates. With my EK Supremacy EVO, flow more than doubled when I had run the ports backwards.

With the ports used incorrectly, flow was more than doubled, but with temps 5-8c above what they were prior, when the ports were in their intended use.

Meaning when used correctly, my flow was cut more than in half but temps were still lower. It would depend upon what kind of loop you have going, and what blocks and radiators you have. Some work better with higher flow or lower flow in my experience.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> yes, the one closer to the middle is in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you have taken the blocks apart, you can tell. The HK IV Pro does indeed have this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how one port is closer to the center and that leads to a channel which in turn takes the coolant towards the middle to be split? That is the designated inlet port. Some blocks will have markings such as "In" or have arrows as with the HK IV Pro, others mention this on the product page or manual.


I don't have my Heatkiller Pro just yet. I may get the H320 X2 prestige and then the Heatkiller Pro IV to replace the Swiftech CPU cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I had done an experiment with my sig rig years ago to see if this in/out situation made a difference - at least in my rig - either with flow or temperature. I had been running AIDA's burn test while checking flow rates. With my EK Supremacy EVO, flow more than doubled when I had run the ports backwards.
> 
> With the ports used incorrectly, flow was more than doubled, but with temps 5-8c above what they were prior, when the ports were in their intended use.
> 
> Meaning when used correctly, my flow was cut more than in half but temps were still lower. It would depend upon what kind of loop you have going, and what blocks and radiators you have. Some work better with higher flow or lower flow in my experience.


What were you using to indicate flow pressure and speed?


----------



## LiquidHaus

I was using a Koolance flow meter, and I had my pumps controlled with the tach up on my Lamptron cw-611


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I was using a Koolance flow meter, and I had my pumps controlled with the tach up on my Lamptron cw-611


So what was the actual flow rate for both then?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So what was the actual flow rate for both then?


Around 250 LPH with the block ports backwards.
Around 120 LPH with the block ports correct.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Around 250 LPH with the block ports backwards.
> Around 120 LPH with the block ports correct.


Thanks!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey @Watercool-Jakob would it be possible to find out how thick the thermal pads would be for the 1080 FTW block that's in development? Thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why is that one VRAM contact copper instead of nickel plated copper everywhere else? Just curious. They look fantastic!


It's due to the manufacturing process. The single copper piece is mounted after the nickel plating. This way, we can use larger tools to work on the GPU area, making this area even smoother and more even. And since it's not visible when installed, we didn't nickel-plate this small piece also.









And now... did I hear a "TITAN" somewhere? Anybody?
Okay, here you go: our new Nvidia TITAN X Pascal water blocks









HEATKILLER® IV for TITAN X (Pascal)


----------



## VSG

Stop making me wait any longer


----------



## LiquidHaus

looks great as always, Jakob.

soooo any word on the FTW block?









itching to make an order from you guys asap.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey @Watercool-Jakob would it be possible to find out how thick the thermal pads would be for the 1080 FTW block that's in development? Thanks.


I cannot give you a definite answer, since the waterblock itself isn't final. But usally, we use o.5mm for RAM and 1.0mm for VRMs. We expect to do so with that block, but as I said, this might be subject to change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> soooo any word on the FTW block?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> itching to make an order from you guys asap.


We're working on it, and it's done when it's done







Should be in October.


----------



## paskowitz

Just ordered my Heatkiller IV Pro. Joining the club soon.


----------



## paskowitz

Double post but on a separate topic. I am thinking of having an acrylic piece made for the Heatkiller IV Pro (115X) with 3mm LED holes. This would allow owners to add some light to their CPU block without having to buy or modify an acrylic top. Would anyone be interested enough in this idea they would be willing to purchase it (no profit on my end)? I would try to do a production run to drive the cost down for everyone (at least that is the plan). I am also looking for 3D printing alternatives... but 3D printing something with light refracting properties is likely too complex/expensive.

The design would be completely on theme to the block itself. Essentially it would just make the block look like it has been enlarged around the perimeter with add area being acrylic. LED would go through the mounting bracket holes. Please let me know if this is something you would like to see.









I would also only go ahead with the blessing of Watercool-Jakob.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Double post but on a separate topic. I am thinking of having an acrylic piece made for the Heatkiller IV Pro (115X) with 3mm LED holes. This would allow owners to add some light to their CPU block without having to buy or modify an acrylic top. Would anyone be interested enough in this idea they would be willing to purchase it (no profit on my end)? I would try to do a production run to drive the cost down for everyone (at least that is the plan). I am also looking for 3D printing alternatives... but 3D printing something with light refracting properties is likely too complex/expensive.
> 
> The design would be completely on theme to the block itself. Essentially it would just make the block look like it has been enlarged around the perimeter with add area being acrylic. LED would go through the mounting bracket holes. Please let me know if this is something you would like to see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also only go ahead with the blessing of Watercool-Jakob.


Not sure if I follow you correctly, but there is an acrylic top for the Heatkiller IV and even though it does not come with some pre-drilled led holes, watercool does add them upon request.

See my HKIV with acrylic top + 2 x 3mm LED holes.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Not sure if I follow you correctly, but there is an acrylic top for the Heatkiller IV and even though it does not come with some pre-drilled led holes, watercool does add them upon request.
> 
> See my HKIV with acrylic top + 2 x 3mm LED holes.


I know, this would be for existing owners and wouldn't require disassembling the unit. Plus, if I am to be honest, IMO, the all acrylic top leaves a lot to be desired in the looks department (vs metal). The way I am trying to have it designed, the glow would be even throughout the piece.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Not sure if I follow you correctly, but there is an acrylic top for the Heatkiller IV and even though it does not come with some pre-drilled led holes, watercool does add them upon request.
> 
> See my HKIV with acrylic top + 2 x 3mm LED holes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My Heatkiller Pro IV Clean Acrylic should be here by the end of this week. I plan on taking the LED out of my swifttech block and installing it into the Heatkiller IV. I at first did not think it possible until I saw this post. Before this post I was thinking of way to some how mount the LED outside the block.

Thanks!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Just letting those who have't seen it yet, know - Perfomance PCs is now selling the new reservoirs. They are sooo good looking. I had planned to order one but made an order right before they were available.

So annoying lol


----------



## EniGma1987

I have had a Heatkiller IV for my CPU for a while now, and I got a new Heatkiller block for my Titan X as soon as it came out. When cleaning my loop I seem to have made a big crack in my reservoir, so I guess that means I get to have the Heatkiller Tube now as well for a full Watercool setup








Got my reservoir from ModMyMods


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Double post but on a separate topic. I am thinking of having an acrylic piece made for the Heatkiller IV Pro (115X) with 3mm LED holes. This would allow owners to add some light to their CPU block without having to buy or modify an acrylic top. Would anyone be interested enough in this idea they would be willing to purchase it (no profit on my end)? I would try to do a production run to drive the cost down for everyone (at least that is the plan). I am also looking for 3D printing alternatives... but 3D printing something with light refracting properties is likely too complex/expensive.
> 
> The design would be completely on theme to the block itself. Essentially it would just make the block look like it has been enlarged around the perimeter with add area being acrylic. LED would go through the mounting bracket holes. Please let me know if this is something you would like to see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also only go ahead with the blessing of Watercool-Jakob.


We are okay with this as long as it is non-profit, modification style. We would have concerns if it should turn into a product for sale. So, go ahead, I'm curious to see where this is taking you.

On the other hand, we already offer an existing HEATKILLER IV top with drill holes: The Hardwareluxx special edition.
Quote:


> Not sure if I follow you correctly, but there is an acrylic top for the Heatkiller IV and even though it does not come with some pre-drilled led holes, watercool does add them upon request.


And then there's that, too! Generally speaking, we love special requests and like to customize pieces, according to customers' wishes. So, when requested, we also do drill holes in the acrylic tops. "Why not do them as standard?", you ask? Well, to drill those holes, a tehnician has to take the part out of the CNC mill, has to reposition it, activate the mill, and take it out again, turn it by 180°,and drill the other hole. The whole process takes ~5 minutes, which isn't a lot of time, hence we are willing to do it. BUT if we would do this for every acrylic top (we manufacture them by the hundreds), these 5 extra minutes would easily add up to a lot of working hours - and then, we would have to raise the price to accomodate for that. Now we are well aware that our products are in the premium pricing range anyway, so we decided to skip this for the standard version and only do the holes on request.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are okay with this as long as it is non-profit, modification style. We would have concerns if it should turn into a product for sale. So, go ahead, I'm curious to see where this is taking you.
> 
> On the other hand, we already offer an existing HEATKILLER IV top with drill holes: The Hardwareluxx special edition.


Awesome. It would basically be an acrylic ring around the block with four 3mm led holes going through the bottom (through the holes in the mounting brace). I would like to use opal acrylic (used in light floors or light boxes) since it diffuses light. It will either be one piece or two pieces with a clip mechanism.

My only issue with the Hardwareluxx top is that metal threads last longer than acrylic threads and the metal HKIV just looks so damn good. Honestly, after I am done, if you guys like the design, I wouldn't mind giving you the design so you can offer it as an accessory. I'll accept a gift card or Watercool key chain as payment







.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I got my Heatkiller IV Pro Clean Acrylic in the mail today. This block is "beautiful"! In fact after looking it over I am really hesitant to drill into it for my UV LED's.... I may have to dig into my wallet to order one of the The Hardwareluxx special edition ones with drill holes. Speaking of which.....

@Watercool-Jakob you said at Watercool you like to do requests. I was wondering if your factories (or what have you) have the ability to do some etching on the surface of the block? I am thinking of a "Bat" symbol from Batman or maybe some lettering. I know it would be small but I am curious if this is possible. My plan would be to paint over it with some UV paint.

Edit: I just discovered you have black chromated mounting brackets for this block. I wonder how that would look. It would probably fit my build colors better than the stock chrome/steel look.

I also noticed that the back of the plate seems to also be nickel plated. If that is the case is there any particular thermal paste that should not be used? I plan on using the Thermal Grizzly stuff I have or alternately I can use the Arctic Silver 5.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey everyone,
I mentioned a few times that we are planning a major upgrade to our product portfolio. I am finally free to speak about it!
We are planning to start a complete new series of radiators, based on the very succesful and famous MO-RA3 design. We want to support the whole branch of "usual" radiator sizes, suitable for internal installation. But we want to hear your viewpoints and preferences first: we made a survey with 12 questions about fans and radiators. It would be super awesome if you'd participate in it, so we can put out the products that you guys REALLY want. As a reward, we raffle one HEATKILLER IV block through all participants of the survey!
And as always, if you want to add something we didn't ask in the survey, feel free to discuss it here with me, I'm always listening









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob you said at Watercool you like to do requests. I was wondering if your factories (or what have you) have the ability to do some etching on the surface of the block? I am thinking of a "Bat" symbol from Batman or maybe some lettering. I know it would be small but I am curious if this is possible. My plan would be to paint over it with some UV paint.
> 
> Edit: I just discovered you have black chromated mounting brackets for this block. I wonder how that would look. It would probably fit my build colors better than the stock chrome/steel look.
> 
> I also noticed that the back of the plate seems to also be nickel plated. If that is the case is there any particular thermal paste that should not be used? I plan on using the Thermal Grizzly stuff I have or alternately I can use the Arctic Silver 5.


For the customization: we do have a laser with which we do all the writing on our products. Or maybe, it could be milled... Please contact [email protected] and state your idea as clear as possible, that makes it easier for my colleague to decide if we can do it...
About the nickelplating: originally, nickelplating was done because nickel is way more robust than copper. So, any industry standard thermal paste is absolutely fine with nickel. Actually, the only problem with thermal compounds that I am aware of is liquid metal products used with copper base plates. But with nickel plates, even the liquid metal products are safe to use.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I mentioned a few times that we are planning a major upgrade to our product portfolio. I am finally free to speak about it!
> We are planning to start a complete new series of radiators, based on the very succesful and famous MO-RA3 design. We want to support the whole branch of "usual" radiator sizes, suitable for internal installation. But we want to hear your viewpoints and preferences first: we made a survey with 12 questions about fans and radiators. It would be super awesome if you'd participate in it, so we can put out the products that you guys REALLY want. As a reward, we raffle one HEATKILLER IV block through all participants of the survey!
> And as always, if you want to add something we didn't ask in the survey, feel free to discuss it here with me, I'm always listening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the customization: we do have a laser with which we do all the writing on our products. Or maybe, it could be milled... Please contact [email protected] and state your idea as clear as possible, that makes it easier for my colleague to decide if we can do it...
> About the nickelplating: originally, nickelplating was done because nickel is way more robust than copper. So, any industry standard thermal paste is absolutely fine with nickel. Actually, the only problem with thermal compounds that I am aware of is liquid metal products used with copper base plates. But with nickel plates, even the liquid metal products are safe to use.


Filled out the survey. Its great that you guys are coming out with new products. I think your waterblocks are the best, and im glad u guys came out with a new reservoir kit. When it comes to radiators, for me its simply performance and build quality. You guys got the quality down pat, but i hope these new rads will focus more on internal radiators with copper channels and fins. Minimum of 4 ports as well. And send @geggeg and @fast_fate samples to review so we can see comparisons. Would love to swap out my alphacool rads for some heatkillers


----------



## VSG

Already saw the survey link via the newsletter but glad to see it was shared here too.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Saw it on Facebook so I did it this morning. Excited for you guys!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I mentioned a few times that we are planning a major upgrade to our product portfolio. I am finally free to speak about it!
> We are planning to start a complete new series of radiators, based on the very succesful and famous MO-RA3 design. We want to support the whole branch of "usual" radiator sizes, suitable for internal installation. But we want to hear your viewpoints and preferences first: we made a survey with 12 questions about fans and radiators. It would be super awesome if you'd participate in it, so we can put out the products that you guys REALLY want. As a reward, we raffle one HEATKILLER IV block through all participants of the survey!
> And as always, if you want to add something we didn't ask in the survey, feel free to discuss it here with me, I'm always listening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the customization: we do have a laser with which we do all the writing on our products. Or maybe, it could be milled... Please contact [email protected] and state your idea as clear as possible, that makes it easier for my colleague to decide if we can do it...
> About the nickelplating: originally, nickelplating was done because nickel is way more robust than copper. So, any industry standard thermal paste is absolutely fine with nickel. Actually, the only problem with thermal compounds that I am aware of is liquid metal products used with copper base plates. But with nickel plates, even the liquid metal products are safe to use.


Thansk for the info on the laser engraver and/or router. I discovered the cost of shipping to the states and it is just as much as the products I want to order. I think I will wait a few till I order something from you guys. I still may contact your rep and see what they can do.

As far as the survey goes. I did it and there are a few questions you should add some responses to.
I don't actually know the thickness of my radiator....lol.
I also use both my MB fan controller and third party alternative (CAM software and Grid+ V2 unit) to control my fans.

Those are the ones I remember for now.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I mentioned a few times that we are planning a major upgrade to our product portfolio. I am finally free to speak about it!
> We are planning to start a complete new series of radiators, based on the very succesful and famous MO-RA3 design. We want to support the whole branch of "usual" radiator sizes, suitable for internal installation. But we want to hear your viewpoints and preferences first: we made a survey with 12 questions about fans and radiators. It would be super awesome if you'd participate in it, so we can put out the products that you guys REALLY want. As a reward, we raffle one HEATKILLER IV block through all participants of the survey!
> And as always, if you want to add something we didn't ask in the survey, feel free to discuss it here with me, I'm always listening


I'll be frank, I passed on watercool radiators in the past because multiple comparisons tests put it in the middle of the pack in terms of performance, but on the top end of price. The metal finish is worth a premium, but the performance (low rpm and good scaling as rpm increases) has to be there. I think ports are also really important. Not just uflow or xflow, but stuff like a bottom drain port or multiple top ports is about the only thing I miss from my Alphacool radiator. Other than that, little things like not letting the screws hit the radiator when mounting.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I want (and really thing there is a market for) more AIO's with pump and radiators included that you can change and add parts to without voiding the warranty. Something that has the ability to mount anywhere in the case (top, bottom, front, and back) that also comes in various sizes (120mm, 140mm, etc).

You know what would be nice to have? A case designed with watercooling in mind. One the has holes at the top for fill ports, maybe even designed with a special radiator that has those fill ports at the top. But I'd also want to have my external drive bays with that, at least 3.......


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'll be frank, I passed on watercool radiators in the past because multiple comparisons tests put it in the middle of the pack in terms of performance, but on the top end of price. The metal finish is worth a premium, but the performance (low rpm and good scaling as rpm increases) has to be there. I think ports are also really important. Not just uflow or xflow, but stuff like a bottom drain port or multiple top ports is about the only thing I miss from my Alphacool radiator. Other than that, little things like not letting the screws hit the radiator when mounting.


Well the thing with the HTSF2 line is: it is old. SERIOUSLY OLD! I don't know the exact year right now, but I think, it was released around 2011... So, yes, that's the main reason why we start this massive overhauling right now: our current radiator series is getting a bit long in the tooth, and can't really compete against newer models.
I will pass your suggestions on, thanks a lot, this is very helpful for us!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I want (and really thing there is a market for) more AIO's with pump and radiators included that you can change and add parts to without voiding the warranty. Something that has the ability to mount anywhere in the case (top, bottom, front, and back) that also comes in various sizes (120mm, 140mm, etc).
> 
> You know what would be nice to have? A case designed with watercooling in mind. One the has holes at the top for fill ports, maybe even designed with a special radiator that has those fill ports at the top. But I'd also want to have my external drive bays with that, at least 3.......


Hm, wrong place to ask, and that twice. Sorry, bro. We are currently not interested in AiO watercooling systems. I do know that there is a market for that, and especially for upgradeable systems, but it's just not what we personally like to do. As I said previously, we come from a engineering point of view, and from that perspective, AiO are always victims to a lot bad compromises. And a wellbalanced watercooling setup with premium components is always better, so that's what we aim for.
As for the case: we don't do cases, either... But hey, couldn't hurt to give a little shout out to @XNine and @Mads1 about these suggestions. Maybe, one day, we figure something out with one of those guys


----------



## VSG

What about triple pass rads? The round tubes will help keep liquid flow restriction low, so a 3rd pass allowing the ports to be on opposite sides for a cleaner loop would be nice. That would help get multiple ports and aid in air bleeding also, while not having the performance deficit of standard single pass X-Flow rads.


----------



## paskowitz

Just thought of this, some form of color customization like the metal beams on the new Tube res. Maybe make the metal plating/accent removable and sell colored variants (metal or plastic).

The overall aesthetic should match current Heatkiller products as well.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about triple pass rads? The round tubes will help keep liquid flow restriction low, so a 3rd pass allowing the ports to be on opposite sides for a cleaner loop would be nice. That would help get multiple ports and aid in air bleeding also, while not having the performance deficit of standard single pass X-Flow rads.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Just thought of this, some form of color customization like the metal beams on the new Tube res. Maybe make the metal plating/accent removable and sell colored variants (metal or plastic).
> 
> The overall aesthetic should match current Heatkiller products as well.


I love both ideas! We'll definitely look into those! Keep it coming, folks


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well the thing with the HTSF2 line is: it is old. SERIOUSLY OLD! I don't know the exact year right now, but I think, it was released around 2011... So, yes, that's the main reason why we start this massive overhauling right now: our current radiator series is getting a bit long in the tooth, and can't really compete against newer models.
> I will pass your suggestions on, thanks a lot, this is very helpful for us!
> Hm, wrong place to ask, and that twice. Sorry, bro. We are currently not interested in AiO watercooling systems. I do know that there is a market for that, and especially for upgradeable systems, but it's just not what we personally like to do. As I said previously, we come from a engineering point of view, and from that perspective, AiO are always victims to a lot bad compromises. And a wellbalanced watercooling setup with premium components is always better, so that's what we aim for.
> As for the case: we don't do cases, either... But hey, couldn't hurt to give a little shout out to @XNine and @Mads1 about these suggestions. Maybe, one day, we figure something out with one of those guys


I wasn't really asking. I was putting my thoughts out there. I really see AIO's as something that has a higher market potential than a complete build your own custom loop. I prefer AIO's because everything is all in one place and you do not have to mount all the extra stuff in different spots and what not. It is also easier for maintenance. I have a Swifttech H240-X that does a great job, especially for being an AIO. I am seriously thinking of upgrading to the H320-X2 prestige edition. Primarily for more rad space and the (apparently) made for Swifttech only Noiseblocker fans.

But I have another issue. I did some minor mods to my case last night (weatherstripping) and I noticed that my tubing may be turning green on the inside again. Which may be oxidization from the copper in the block and the rad. I have some loop cleaning fluid that can clean that out pretty good, I just have to leave it in the loop for no less than 24 hours.

I use the Mayhems XT-1 additive but I don't think it has any anti corrosive in it.

So I'm thinking I will need to add some anti corrosive to the loop before I add my Heatkiller Pro IV block. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good anti corrosive that works great with the mayhems XT-1? Hopefully it will be available through Amazon prime so I can get it by the middle of the week.

I was really looking forward to installing that block and seeing how it performs. I am hoping to get slightly better temps than my current 30 deg at idle and 63 deg (max) under load with my Apogee waterblock in the H240-X AIO.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I wasn't really asking. I was putting my thoughts out there. I really see AIO's as something that has a higher market potential than a complete build your own custom loop. I prefer AIO's because everything is all in one place and you do not have to mount all the extra stuff in different spots and what not. It is also easier for maintenance. I have a Swifttech H240-X that does a great job, especially for being an AIO. I am seriously thinking of upgrading to the H320-X2 prestige edition. Primarily for more rad space and the (apparently) made for Swifttech only Noiseblocker fans.
> 
> But I have another issue. I did some minor mods to my case last night (weatherstripping) and I noticed that my tubing may be turning green on the inside again. Which may be oxidization from the copper in the block and the rad. I have some loop cleaning fluid that can clean that out pretty good, I just have to leave it in the loop for no less than 24 hours.
> 
> I use the Mayhems XT-1 additive but I don't think it has any anti corrosive in it.
> 
> So I'm thinking I will need to add some anti corrosive to the loop before I add my Heatkiller Pro IV block. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good anti corrosive that works great with the mayhems XT-1? Hopefully it will be available through Amazon prime so I can get it by the middle of the week.
> 
> I was really looking forward to installing that block and seeing how it performs. I am hoping to get slightly better temps than my current 30 deg at idle and 63 deg (max) under load with my Apogee waterblock in the H240-X AIO.


I don't know the fluid myself, but a quick checkup on the manufacturers homepage gives the imformation that it DOES include corrosion inhibitors and biocides, as every glycol based additive does. So, are you by chance using a silver kill coil? Or did you add anything else to your loop? Or did you use cleaning agents and didn't flush enough afterwards?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I don't know the fluid myself, but a quick checkup on the manufacturers homepage gives the imformation that it DOES include corrosion inhibitors and biocides, as every glycol based additive does. So, are you by chance using a silver kill coil? Or did you add anything else to your loop? Or did you use cleaning agents and didn't flush enough afterwards?


I have silver coil but never added it. I did like 2 or 3 complete flushes with distilled water after the last time I cleaned it.
It of course may be because of the block. I had an issue with that having some serious discoloration and followed many different cleaning solutions/methods to include running my dremel on it to get it shiny again. Overall they mostly worked but the block still had some discolored spots.

Do you think I should go ahead and install the Heatkiller IV pro block and clean out the system and see how it all goes? I just do not want to mess up this beautiful block from you at Watercool.


----------



## Toltol

Quite amazed by the new Titan XP Heatkiller, getting a deltaT of 5° between water and gpu temp in witcher 3.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Quite amazed by the new Titan XP Heatkiller, getting a deltaT of 5° between water and gpu temp in witcher 3.


Well... you do have 1400mm of radiator. Still impressive none the less.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quick question... Since there is a plan to release waterblocks for non-reference Pascal cards, will the Strix 1080 waterblock be compatible with the Strix 1070 and Strix 1060 like another company's blocks are?


----------



## Madmaxneo

So far I am loving my Heatkiller Pro IV Clean Acrylic block. I filled it with the Sysprep mix then ran it for about 2 hrs outside the case with no leaks so I put it in the case and booted up my system. Upon boot up my idle temps were about 4 deg lower than normal. So I ran the Intel Burn test on the high test and my temps were again about 4 or 5 deg lower than normal. With an average of about 51 deg and a high of about 61 deg. The thing is this is all with just Sysprep. I will flush the system out and refill with distilled and the XT-1 either tomorrow of Tuesday, but I have to let it run continuous till then. I am still keeping an eye out for leaks so wish me the best!.

EDIT: @Watercool-Jakob Do you guys have any pump/res combos that can mount directly to the rad?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> So far I am loving my Heatkiller Pro IV Clean Acrylic block. I filled it with the Sysprep mix then ran it for about 2 hrs outside the case with no leaks so I put it in the case and booted up my system. Upon boot up my idle temps were about 4 deg lower than normal. So I ran the Intel Burn test on the high test and my temps were again about 4 or 5 deg lower than normal. With an average of about 51 deg and a high of about 61 deg. The thing is this is all with just Sysprep. I will flush the system out and refill with distilled and the XT-1 either tomorrow of Tuesday, but I have to let it run continuous till then. I am still keeping an eye out for leaks so wish me the best!.
> 
> EDIT: @Watercool-Jakob Do you guys have any pump/res combos that can mount directly to the rad?


But yes of course we do: our HEATKILLER Tube series reservoirs can be augmented with either a DDC or a D5 pump (sold seperately), and can be mounted to a standard radiator via our basic mounting kit and 120 or 140mm fan adapter. When done properly, this could look like this:


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> But yes of course we do: our HEATKILLER Tube series reservoirs can be augmented with either a DDC or a D5 pump (sold seperately), and can be mounted to a standard radiator via our basic mounting kit and 120 or 140mm fan adapter. When done properly, this could look like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is exactly what I am looking for!

Is it possible you could list the parts I would need for such a thing? I would also need a 360 rad.

Update: Well my cpu has reached its normal operating temp which is the same as it was before I switched out the block with the Heatkiller Pro IV I have. They are back up to 31 deg average for idle and normal highs in the mid 60's for the intel burn test. But it is still filled with the Sysprep. I will change it out tomorrow when I get home from work (hopefully no leaks by then).

While I was replacing everything in the loop I noticed that no other parts were either stained green or discolored at all, and the coolant was still clear. So I opened up the Apogee block to see and it looked exactly the same as when i had cleaned it out the last time like 4 or 5 months ago. So I cut open the tubing and it was green but it was a clear green, It seems the only thing that turned color was my tubing. I am using the Primoflex advanced LRT Brilliant UV blue tubing which should work fine.

Does anyone think it could be the Mayhems XT-1 causing this or is there an issue with using the Primoflex UV tubing?


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is exactly what I am looking for!
> 
> Is it possible you could list the parts I would need for such a thing? I would also need a 360 rad.



Tube (standalone or D5 or DDC variant)
Mounting kit
120mm mount adapter
Optionally the LED strip (only one can be fitted).


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> 
> Tube (standalone or D5 or DDC variant)
> Mounting kit
> 120mm mount adapter
> Optionally the LED strip (only one can be fitted).


I was hoping for links to each part.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I was hoping for links to each part.


Resevoirs (choose one type):
- Just the tube resevoir
- Resevoir that can mount a DDC pump
- Resevoir that can mount a D5 pump

Mounting:
- Mounting brackets for the resevoir itself
- 120mm fan adaptor (choose this or 140mm, depending on radiator you're mounting it to)
- 140mm fan adaptor (choose this or 120mm, depending on radiator you're mounting it to)
- Other accessories, such as lighting stripes, different coloured bars for the resevoir, as well as standalone (and MO-RA3) mounting options

Hope such helps. I didn't direct link to any particular size of resevoir, as there are three different options (100, 150, and 200mm resevoirs)


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Resevoirs (choose one type):
> - Just the tube resevoir
> - Resevoir that can mount a DDC pump
> - Resevoir that can mount a D5 pump
> 
> Mounting:
> - Mounting brackets for the resevoir itself
> - 120mm fan adaptor (choose this or 140mm, depending on radiator you're mounting it to)
> - 140mm fan adaptor (choose this or 120mm, depending on radiator you're mounting it to)
> - Other accessories, such as lighting stripes, different coloured bars for the resevoir, as well as standalone (and MO-RA3) mounting options
> 
> 
> 
> Hope such helps. I didn't direct link to any particular size of resevoir, as there are three different options (100, 150, and 200mm resevoirs)


Wow, Thanks!

What is the difference between a DDC and a D5 pump?

Also what is a good 360mm rad?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, Thanks!
> 
> What is the difference between a DDC and a D5 pump?
> 
> Also what is a good 360mm rad?


I do my best... I enjoy browsing company's websites for various info, as well as storing info that may or may not be relevant at times. Comes in handy on rare occasions ^_^

The pumps question is definitely a lot better suited to someone with a great deal more practical knowledge such as VSG or fast_fate (or Jakob







), but I can say with certainty that the D5 is circular in shape, while the DDC is square.

As for good 360mm radiators, there are plenty to choose from, but I suspect that question is better asked in a non-vendor specific thread as answers to that specific question will tend to be more varied. As Watercool does produce radiators in their Heatkiller line, I'll instead mention a few things you'll want to keep in mind when looking at radiators... ^_^;;;
- How much space do you have for installing the radiator? This can affect what size radiator you can go with. For example, a 30mm thick radiator will actually take up 55mm with a single row of fans, and 80mm when configured in push/pull. For a 60mm thick radiator (where a number are actually 64-68mm thick) you're looking at 85mm thick with just a single set of fans
- Is the main focus on performance, or on silent operation? Some radiators in testing have shown to get some significant gains when running push/pull and 2200rpm fans (in comparison to the same radiators running 800rpm fans) but it's also going to be noticeably louder.
- Do note that some radiators out there are designed for easier air flow (designed for being more efficient with low speed fans, and therefore would typically have a lower amount of noise being produced) while others are rather dense with the fins (as many as 32-36 fins per inch) and see noticeable gains from running fast fans, but at a cost of noticeably more notice (especially if you get the wailer Deltas that are known for pushing insane amounts of airflow, but can also be a simulation for a turbine engine take-off level of noise. Some also wail like turbine engines too, but not quite at the right tone - by wail I mean by the gods, the piercing noise!!


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is exactly what I am looking for!
> 
> Is it possible you could list the parts I would need for such a thing? I would also need a 360 rad.
> 
> Update: Well my cpu has reached its normal operating temp which is the same as it was before I switched out the block with the Heatkiller Pro IV I have. They are back up to 31 deg average for idle and normal highs in the mid 60's for the intel burn test. But it is still filled with the Sysprep. I will change it out tomorrow when I get home from work (hopefully no leaks by then).
> 
> While I was replacing everything in the loop I noticed that no other parts were either stained green or discolored at all, and the coolant was still clear. So I opened up the Apogee block to see and it looked exactly the same as when i had cleaned it out the last time like 4 or 5 months ago. So I cut open the tubing and it was green but it was a clear green, It seems the only thing that turned color was my tubing. I am using the Primoflex advanced LRT Brilliant UV blue tubing which should work fine.
> 
> Does anyone think it could be the Mayhems XT-1 causing this or is there an issue with using the Primoflex UV tubing?


all soft tubing get stained over time. Actually mayhems products are one of the least staining. I've used mayhems clear tubing before and after 6 months with pastel white and another 2mths after adding some blue dye they stayed almost as clear as when they were new. I'd recommend them over Primochill(they are also like 3 times cheaper).


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I mentioned a few times that we are planning a major upgrade to our product portfolio. I am finally free to speak about it!
> We are planning to start a complete new series of radiators, based on the very succesful and famous MO-RA3 design. We want to support the whole branch of "usual" radiator sizes, suitable for internal installation. But we want to hear your viewpoints and preferences first: we made a survey with 12 questions about fans and radiators. It would be super awesome if you'd participate in it, so we can put out the products that you guys REALLY want. As a reward, we raffle one HEATKILLER IV block through all participants of the survey!
> And as always, if you want to add something we didn't ask in the survey, feel free to discuss it here with me, I'm always listening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Just saw your post and tried to do the survey. Page wouldnt load for me sadly, I think it is something at my work blocking the page from loading. Some websites dont work at my work. Ill try again when I get home.

Dont know if it is on the survey, but are you planning or even thinking about doing any 30-fpi radiators? They are a pretty rare breed but I love their cooling potential. They are all I use in my system.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> But yes of course we do: our HEATKILLER Tube series reservoirs can be augmented with either a DDC or a D5 pump (sold seperately), and can be mounted to a standard radiator via our basic mounting kit and 120 or 140mm fan adapter. When done properly, this could look like this:


keep posting that watercooling goodness man! loving the pics.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wow, Thanks!
> 
> What is the difference between a DDC and a D5 pump?
> 
> Also what is a good 360mm rad?


Well, as a rule of thumb, the DDC has the higher performance, while the D5 is more silent. Both pumps are absolutely sufficient to run a normal sized system (CPU, GPU, corresponding rad space)!
As for radiators: the HTSF2 is still a decent radiator, but quite frankly, it's not top of the game anymore. I will not give you advice to competitors' products (apart from me not being knowledgeable about them), nor would I be too happy to see such recommendations in this thread









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Dont know if it is on the survey, but are you planning or even thinking about doing any 30-fpi radiators? They are a pretty rare breed but I love their cooling potential. They are all I use in my system.


In the survey, we ask ybout your usual fan speed, which indirectly tells us something about desired fpi. Generally speaking, we always have cared more for the german and european market, which is very silent-centered. Fanspeeds very rarely exceed 1000rpm, hence the small fpi numbers. However, we do want to target the american and asian markets more, which tend to be more performance-centered, with fan speeds rarely below 1500rpm. So, the initial idea is to see which rpm-number yields the biggest share of the survey and produce only one radiator line according to this specific rpm scenario. If we should see that there are two extreme groups, maybe we will think about producing two seperate lines of radiators to accomodate those differing needs. But since the survey isn't closed yet, we don't know ourselves, so I cannot give you a specific answer...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> keep posting that watercooling goodness man! loving the pics.


You might be interested in these older posts, then


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> all soft tubing get stained over time. Actually mayhems products are one of the least staining. I've used mayhems clear tubing before and after 6 months with pastel white and another 2mths after adding some blue dye they stayed almost as clear as when they were new. I'd recommend them over Primochill(they are also like 3 times cheaper).


So my tubing was fine then, that's good. It would be nice to find some UV tubing that does not stain or at least stain so easily. Something that lasts at least a year would be awesome.

Well all is good so farm no leaks and my system does seem to maintain slightly lower temps better than before. Now I am getting ready to flush the Sysprep out of my system.


----------



## Rotknee

Jakob...what mounting accessories come with the HEATKILLER® Tube - stand (long)? I just saw the "decoupling kit" on your website and was wondering if the same accessories came with the long stand.

Thank you in advance for your help.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rotknee*
> 
> Jakob...what mounting accessories come with the HEATKILLER® Tube - stand (long)? I just saw the "decoupling kit" on your website and was wondering if the same accessories came with the long stand.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help.


With the stand come only the basic mounting materials, e.g. screws, washers, and nuts. The decoupling kit has to be bought seperatedly.


----------



## Talon720

So I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the heatkiller tube res. Is the only difference between the basic, and regular is the basic has silver aluminum bars with no logo while the regular has black bars with a logo? I couldn't see any other differences.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I am soo excited for that FTW block. It's gonna be front and center in my system. Just re-built my sig rig and that block is gonna be the main attraction


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talon720*
> 
> So I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the heatkiller tube res. Is the only difference between the basic, and regular is the basic has silver aluminum bars with no logo while the regular has black bars with a logo? I couldn't see any other differences.


Yes, that is correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I am soo excited for that FTW block. It's gonna be front and center in my system. Just re-built my sig rig and that block is gonna be the main attraction


Looks great. I'm digging your hardtube-bending skills, really nice work. Our block will definitely look good on this


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Looks great. I'm digging your hardtube-bending skills, really nice work. Our block will definitely look good on this


Thanks man! I appreciate the compliment. It definitely took some time that's for sure lol

The block will literally be front and center, which is funny because the fact that your blocks looks soo good to me is the main reason I decided to do this rebuild!

Here is the entire system:


----------



## saintruski

Are their ported tops for the heatkiller tube?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Are their ported tops for the heatkiller tube?


Yes indeed, they sell a dual port version of the top as an extra (will try to remember to edit this post with a proper link when I get home)

EDIT: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Ausgleichsbeh%C3%A4lter/Zubeh%C3%B6r , and then scroll down to the bottom, as there are three options, one for each fo the sizings (100mm, 150mm, and 200mm)


----------



## Killa Cam

Well looky looky...


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Yes indeed, they sell a dual port version of the top as an extra (will try to remember to edit this post with a proper link when I get home)
> 
> EDIT: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Ausgleichsbeh%C3%A4lter/Zubeh%C3%B6r , and then scroll down to the bottom, as there are three options, one for each fo the sizings (100mm, 150mm, and 200mm)


thanks, i was shopping on performance pcs. Ill have to order it from out of country i guess.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> thanks, i was shopping on performance pcs. Ill have to order it from out of country i guess.


Kind of odd that performance PC's doesn't seem to have it as they have most of the other parts of the lineup. I would suggest sending them an email inquiring about the top, as odds are they probably have some on order and haven't added them to the website yet.


----------



## EniGma1987

Just got my Heatkiller Tube in. Wow this thing is high quality. Perfect in every way including looks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> thanks, i was shopping on performance pcs. Ill have to order it from out of country i guess.


You could also see when ModMyMods might have them in stock:
https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=HEATKILLER+Tube+-+MultiPort+Top

That is where I have bought all my Heatkiller parts except for the GPU block.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Yes indeed, they sell a dual port version of the top as an extra (will try to remember to edit this post with a proper link when I get home)
> 
> EDIT: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Ausgleichsbeh%C3%A4lter/Zubeh%C3%B6r , and then scroll down to the bottom, as there are three options, one for each fo the sizings (100mm, 150mm, and 200mm)


When ordering a HEATKILLER Tube directly from our shop, you can select some options: please scroll down. As you can see, we offer the multiport top INSTEAD of the widemouth top for free. So, when ordering directly from us, you can choose which top you want without additional costs. You can also swap the color of the struts for free (Aluminum) or for a very small cost (Anodized colors).

The thing is: we can sell those options because we manufacture and assemble all our products in our very own workshop, all under one roof. So it's easy to just install different these struts with that top on those bottom parts for us. It's a different story for the resellers, though: they would need to hire someone, take our original product out of its packaging, disassemble it, and install the differing parts, while then having the original parts as surplus. So, they need to sell each part seperately, so no harsh feelings on them, please!


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> Just got my Heatkiller Tube in. Wow this thing is high quality. Perfect in every way including looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also see when ModMyMods might have them in stock:
> https://modmymods.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=HEATKILLER+Tube+-+MultiPort+Top
> 
> That is where I have bought all my Heatkiller parts except for the GPU block.


Modmymods has stock issues a lot, I've had several dealings with them however and wasn't really happy. I'll don't think I could go with them ever again.


----------



## Killa Cam

Hey jakob! I really love the blue anodized struts for the reservoir. Is there any way you guys will be coming out with more products with that color - for instance, cpu mounting plates, gpu backplates, or d5 pump cover? It goes so perfectly with mayhems ocean blue


----------



## ckoons1

how tight to screw on my new heatkiller 4 pro acrylic clean block?

is there a set mm spacing?
thx


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> how tight to screw on my new heatkiller 4 pro acrylic clean block?
> 
> is there a set mm spacing?
> thx


all the way down


----------



## ckoons1

for real? are you 100% positive on that? don't mean to question your knowledge just don't want to break anything.
thank you


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> how tight to screw on my new heatkiller 4 pro acrylic clean block?
> 
> is there a set mm spacing?
> thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> for real? are you 100% positive on that? don't mean to question your knowledge just don't want to break anything.
> thank you


i looked at some pictures, it looks like any other water block, if your using the right screws and pieces, they should be threaded for the socket that you are using in a way you cant over tighten. So you should screw it, by hand, all the way down till it cant be screwed no more.

things i referenced

http://forums.evga.com/Review-of-the-Watercool-Heatkiller-IV-Pro-CPU-block-m2317614.aspx

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/

and google images


----------



## ckoons1

ok thank you. REPS GIVEN


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> When ordering a HEATKILLER Tube directly from our shop, you can select some options: please scroll down. As you can see, we offer the multiport top INSTEAD of the widemouth top for free. So, when ordering directly from us, you can choose which top you want without additional costs. You can also swap the color of the struts for free (Aluminum) or for a very small cost (Anodized colors).
> 
> The thing is: we can sell those options because we manufacture and assemble all our products in our very own workshop, all under one roof. So it's easy to just install different these struts with that top on those bottom parts for us. It's a different story for the resellers, though: they would need to hire someone, take our original product out of its packaging, disassemble it, and install the differing parts, while then having the original parts as surplus. So, they need to sell each part seperately, so no harsh feelings on them, please!


Such is great news, I hadn't realized you could do that when ordering. Especially glad to see you can change up the struts if you so choose for a small additional cost


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Hey jakob! I really love the blue anodized struts for the reservoir. Is there any way you guys will be coming out with more products with that color - for instance, cpu mounting plates, gpu backplates, or d5 pump cover? It goes so perfectly with mayhems ocean blue


We didn't plan anything like that up until today. However, I received similar feedback throughout other forums and social media channels. It is something I will bring up with the design departement. We'll see if we can come up with something. Thanks for the suggestion








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> how tight to screw on my new heatkiller 4 pro acrylic clean block?
> 
> is there a set mm spacing?
> thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> all the way down


Just wanted to confirm this. The HEATKILLER IV mounting mechanism is foolproof: just tighten all the thumbscrews to the maximum, there is a mechanical end stop. It is impossible to overtighten them. Even more, we designed the mounting mechnaism so that the mounting pressure for each individual socket matches exactly intels specification.


----------



## paskowitz

One other idea for the new radiators... offer bundle SKUs at a discount. Rad, res, mounts, blocks, etc for like -10% of individual total.


----------



## Cobra26

For ideas for the new Watercool radiators.

Keep the internal flux free ie no solder points.

Copper tubes, copper fins, should look really nice.

Less restrictive.

Various sizes from small to large.

Multiple ports.

And a bleed port would be nice.

And ofcourse build quality that people are used to from Watercool it needs to stand out from the competition nice design (i like the round tube design).

And performance wise can compete with the top 5 brands of various radiators.


----------



## Fyrwulf

Are you guys going to make a block for the XFX RX 480 GTR? The only reason I ask is because of the glowing review Jayztwocents did. I figure if he can condescend to admitting an AMD product is good, it's probably really good.


----------



## paskowitz




----------



## meson1

Well, I've ordered a Heatkiller IV Acrylic/Nickel for my Titan X Pascal.








I ordered the eBC backplate too. It's a shame the backplate only comes in black. That said, my rig will be reverse layout, so the GPU will be facing upwards, so the lovely Heatkiller IV waterblock will be on the more visible side.

None-the-less, will a silver coloured backplate ever be offered for the 1080 series cards?


----------



## X-Nine

All I have to say is your current line up of products is sexier than ever!


----------



## paskowitz

Ok, the HK IV Pro is a seriously good block. My delid 4790K at 5.0Ghz/1.42v, in OCCT AVX/64/Linepack was around 72-75c. That's at least a 10c do from my Apogee XL. It's possible I didn't sit my XL properly, but still... damn.


----------



## Salem13

My best Heatkiller pron from this build


----------



## LiquidHaus

Need. FTW Block.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

hey guys,
I wanted to point out two general things:

- Our homepage, including shop and forum, will move servers on this friday. So, you won't be able to reach any of those on friday, and depending on the refresh rate of your DNS server, maybe even a couple of days more.
- Our shipping times haven't been the best in the last few months. Please see this post for an explanation. While we are sincerely sorry for each and every one of our customers who has to wait for his products, we are profoundly thankful to all the people who trusted in our products in the last couple of months and hope that this development will keep on. Thanks a lot to all of you, YOU guys really gave us a HARD but also very fulfilling summer and autumn!

Now, I've been very busy with my daytime job. But please don't think that I forgot about this thread and all your wonderful posts here!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> One other idea for the new radiators... offer bundle SKUs at a discount. Rad, res, mounts, blocks, etc for like -10% of individual total.


Yes, will do! When the new series of rads will have come out, we will over bundles for people who just started going for watercooling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fyrwulf*
> 
> Are you guys going to make a block for the XFX RX 480 GTR?


No, we will not. Our schedule is extremely tight the way it is right now, so it just doesn't make the cut...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for sharing







Love the tubing, actually. What is it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> Well, I've ordered a Heatkiller IV Acrylic/Nickel for my Titan X Pascal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered the eBC backplate too. It's a shame the backplate only comes in black. That said, my rig will be reverse layout, so the GPU will be facing upwards, so the lovely Heatkiller IV waterblock will be on the more visible side.
> None-the-less, will a silver coloured backplate ever be offered for the 1080 series cards?


We will actually recieve the first test samples of different plating methods for nickel plated aluminum next week. We will then decide if any of those match both our high quality standards and can be offered for a competitive price. If so, I will let you know









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> All I have to say is your current line up of products is sexier than ever!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Ok, the HK IV Pro is a seriously good block. My delid 4790K at 5.0Ghz/1.42v, in OCCT AVX/64/Linepack was around 72-75c. That's at least a 10c do from my Apogee XL. It's possible I didn't sit my XL properly, but still... damn.


Thanks for the feedback. Actually, that makes me wonder. We did some test runs with delidded Skylake processors, and came to quite different solutions. Did you try mountings with re-applied IHS? I would be highly interested in a broader data sample!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Salem13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My best Heatkiller pron from this build


Thanks for sharing









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Need. FTW Block.


Please see above. Yes, it will come. But it might become early Novembre before its release.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> (snip)
> 
> - Our shipping times haven't been the best in the last few months. Please see this post for an explanation. While we are sincerely sorry for each and every one of our customers who has to wait for his products, we are profoundly thankful to all the people who trusted in our products in the last couple of months and hope that this development will keep on. Thanks a lot to all of you, YOU guys really gave us a HARD but also very fulfilling summer and autumn!
> 
> (snip)
> 
> Yes, it will come. But it might become early Novembre before its release.


No worries, Jakob! I have faith that you guys are doing great.

Also I am very excited to hear about this nickel plated aluminum for future backplates.

Though I am also curious about that, as you guys used to offer nickel plated backplates before - I had them on my four 7970s.

Was it an issue with a past contractor that ended the aluminum - nickel plating before?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Jakob, I'm still curious.... Will the FTW and/or Strix blocks you guys are doing also have compatability with the 1060 series as well, or just 1070/1080?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 1. Yes, will do! When the new series of rads will have come out, we will over bundles for people who just started going for watercooling.
> 
> 2. Thanks for sharing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the tubing, actually. What is it?
> 
> 3. Thanks for the feedback. Actually, that makes me wonder. We did some test runs with delidded Skylake processors, and came to quite different solutions. Did you try mountings with re-applied IHS? I would be highly interested in a broader data sample!
> Thanks for sharing


1. Awesome.

2. It is mod/smart Kobra High Density Sleeving in Carbon Fiber. Here is another shot...


3. I would never go bare die







. I have the IHS on, with the IHS glue totally removed and CLU on the die and IHS. My 4790K came with a stock voltage of 1.27v (there are two versions, the other with 1.19v) and is a relatively hot chip (comparatively when I first got it), although it OCs well. I would be happy to do some testing... although... I don't have any baselines as I have changed variables so many times. What test methodology would you want me to use (program, data, etc)?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Oooooooooooooh, loving the sound of a new series of radiators coming out from Watercool ^_^


----------



## wot

Phone picture sorry...


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> 
> 
> Phone picture sorry...


what are you sorry for? Thats a great pic. Its not about the device u use to take pictures, its the art of how u use it. And u took a great pic


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> 
> 
> Phone picture sorry...


That isn't a phone picture to be sorry about.


----------



## muzammil84

can I join phone photo party then?







funny enough, orange coolant too(not pastel tho). These blocks look amazing with acrylic top, imo ports and coolant flow look so much better thsn EK acrylic blocks(I think thank to not having a jetplate).


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can I join phone photo party then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> funny enough, orange coolant too(not pastel tho). These blocks look amazing with acrylic top, imo ports and coolant flow look so much better thsn EK acrylic blocks(I think thank to not having a jetplate).


Now that I see it with liquid in it, yeah... that does look pretty good. I like the orange soda float color scheme!


----------



## muzammil84

ok one more, overall look (also 2x Watercool D5 top).


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Are Titan X Maxwell backplate compatible with Titan X Pascal?

Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/secbba6f6dc37/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/16061


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Are Titan X Maxwell backplate compatible with Titan X Pascal?
> 
> Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/secbba6f6dc37/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/16061


I believe not. What you want is one of these "_HEATKILLER® IV eBC - backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titanium X (Pascal)_":

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/16063


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I believe not. What you want is one of these "_HEATKILLER® IV eBC - backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titanium X (Pascal)_":
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/16063


Thanks, How did I miss that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Thanks, How did I miss that.


English side of the site only says 1080 / 1070, Nothing about Titan X.


----------



## meson1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> English side of the site only says 1080 / 1070, Nothing about Titan X.


I actually heard about it first on one of Jakob's posts in this OCN Heatkiller Club thread. Specifically this post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/600_100#post_25499325


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meson1*
> 
> I believe not. What you want is one of these "_HEATKILLER® IV eBC - backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titanium X (Pascal)_":
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/16063


That is correct









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> English side of the site only says 1080 / 1070, Nothing about Titan X.


Oh. That is... peculiar. Thanks for bringing this up, I will have it changed asap. Sorry for the confusion...


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnepCYuSj

https://imageshack.com/i/po3NGkNHj










Just got my new 1080 block.


----------



## Revan654

^ Nice, I got a similar one for my Titan X.


----------



## saintruski

just got my heatkiller IV pro. Going to try an install it tonight and take pictures with my crappy camera.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question, Anyone have a picture of the Heatkiller res 150 or 200 in an actual build? I'm trying to get an idea on how it would look, I can only find stock photos.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question, Anyone have a picture of the Heatkiller res 150 or 200 in an actual build? I'm trying to get an idea on how it would look, I can only find stock photos.


Yea, actually full Heatkiller-Build.


----------



## paskowitz

Looks good. I like the Tube because it could easily blend in with parts from other manufacturers.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*


Awesome build, man.

THAT RES THOUGH


----------



## saintruski

Nevermind fixed it


----------



## LiquidHaus

@Watercool-Jakob any updated ETA on the FTW block? thanks man


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey folks,
long time no see







We have been very busy in the last weeks: we got the contract for a very large industrial project from the automobile market. We had tough competition, but finally came through with our design. So, as industry orders go, they usually work on a very tight schedule, so all our product designers were very occupied with this project. It was an interesting project, because we had to come up with an solution where you could remove some of the waterblocks from a running loop without tools and without shutting the loop down. Mayb, some of those basic design ideas will get implemented into the consumer market some time...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob any updated ETA on the FTW block? thanks man


Because of this, the ETA for the EVGA FTW blocks got pushed in the future: we are currently planning with a release in early December.

Then, I wanted to share a great casemod project with you that we did a customized GTX 1070 waterblock frontcover for. Please check out



__ https://www.facebook.com/copperMod/posts/1401356286560849


by Jbfem (german buildlog). We are always very welcoming of individual ideas concerning platings, laser engraved logos and stuff like that. Sadly, we cannot offer the complete development of an individual waterblock, of course, this just consumes to much time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnepCYuSj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/po3NGkNHj
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my new 1080 block.


Thank you for sharing, always appreciated!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question, Anyone have a picture of the Heatkiller res 150 or 200 in an actual build? I'm trying to get an idea on how it would look, I can only find stock photos.


Weirldy enough, the same goes for me! We sold a lot of the tubes, but recieved very little feedback in picture form for them. So, if you guys happen to own one, please feel free to share your pics, here in this thread or on our facebook page!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Yea, actually full Heatkiller-Build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for sharing, looking great! What did you do with the CPU block, though? DId you paint it blue, or is this just some light reflecting?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> ...the ETA for the EVGA FTW blocks got pushed in the future: we are currently planning with a release in early December....


Wow. That's really unfortunate.

Good for you guys snagging a contract in the automotive world.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
just wanted to let you know that the EVGA 1070/1080 FTW waterblocks are now listed listed in our shop and can be prordered, beginning today. We even grant 10% discount on every preorder on these waterblocks!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> just wanted to let you know that the EVGA 1070/1080 FTW waterblocks are now listed listed in our shop and can be prordered, beginning today. We even grant 10% discount on every preorder on these waterblocks!


This is GREAT news.

I will be pre-ordering most likely later today!

Quick question however...does the block cover the entire PCB? Also, does the LED strip on the normal blocks work for this one?

Thanks, Jakob.


----------



## VSG

Just took custody of a massive box from Germany. I wonder what is inside?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just took custody of a massive box from Germany. I wonder what is inside?


Pictures, please


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Pictures, please


Not anytime immediate, I have to unbox fully so it will take some time to document everything and then edit the pics. There will be pictures though!


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> This is GREAT news.
> 
> I will be pre-ordering most likely later today!
> 
> Quick question however...does the block cover the entire PCB? Also, does the LED strip on the normal blocks work for this one?
> 
> Thanks, Jakob.


German shop has a description and from that it seems that it is a full cover block and that the ones with a transparent cover already have the led strip installed.


----------



## Arctucas

The Join link does not work for me, but I have a HK 3.0 Copper with the 1151 adapter kit and a PA140.3 radiator.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Not anytime immediate, I have to unbox fully so it will take some time to document everything and then edit the pics. There will be pictures though!


Sounds good, man. I'm excited for the write up!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> German shop has a description and from that it seems that it is a full cover block and that the ones with a transparent cover already have the led strip installed.


Mind sharing the link?

Watercool's site has nothing in terms of desciption. Normally their blocks are indeed full cover, but with the teaser image, it doesn't look it it is. The end of the card that has the Dual DVI outputs; normally the full cover would go around it.

It's better to illustrate, so here.



Compared to the reference model block, it doesn't seem as though the entire block will cover the PCB.

I am not attacking or criticizing Watercool in anyway, or meaning to jump the gun with judgement - I am simply being observant with what I am seeing and what I am used to seeing.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just took custody of a massive box from Germany. I wonder what is inside?


Oooh, they sent you a box full of Armageddon. Can't wait to see what kind of goodies you received!


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Sounds good, man. I'm excited for the write up!
> Mind sharing the link?
> 
> Watercool's site has nothing in terms of desciption. Normally their blocks are indeed full cover, but with the teaser image, it doesn't look it it is. The end of the card that has the Dual DVI outputs; normally the full cover would go around it.
> 
> It's better to illustrate, so here.
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to the reference model block, it doesn't seem as though the entire block will cover the PCB.
> 
> I am not attacking or criticizing Watercool in anyway, or meaning to jump the gun with judgement - I am simply being observant with what I am seeing and what I am used to seeing.


http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15585


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Just took custody of a massive box from Germany. I wonder what is inside?


FINALLY! \o/ I'm genuinely relieved that we are getting our delivery times back on track!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quick question however...does the block cover the entire PCB? Also, does the LED strip on the normal blocks work for this one?
> 
> Thanks, Jakob.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> German shop has a description and from that it seems that it is a full cover block and that the ones with a transparent cover already have the led strip installed.


The teaser image you are referring to is a mere placeholder that has nothing to do with the actual block. I THINK it is an old version of the R9 Fury Block, but am not exactly sure. What I AM sure about are the following:
- The block will definitely cover the entire PCB, just as with the reference block.
- The block comes with an RGB LED strip preinstalled for all Plexi cover versions. This strip can be plugged into the onboard RGB LED header, and be fully controlled via EVGAs software.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15585


Thank you! I thought you meant it was on a different German site advertising it, not Watercool itself lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The teaser image you are referring to is a mere placeholder that has nothing to do with the actual block. I THINK it is an old version of the R9 Fury Block, but am not exactly sure. What I AM sure about are the following:
> - The block will definitely cover the entire PCB, just as with the reference block.
> - The block comes with an RGB LED strip preinstalled for all Plexi cover versions. This strip can be plugged into the onboard RGB LED header, and be fully controlled via EVGAs software.


Ahhh well that is wonderful news! I appreciate the response, Jakob. I will definitely be pre-ordering today then!

edit:

Alright! Consider me a future owner of your 1080 FTW Block. Just finished purchasing


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
As a big Thank You to our international community, we have a discount code for the holiday. Please use "BlackFridayWC" during checkout in our shop to receive 10% off (does not stack with the 10% preorder discount on the FTW blocks). The code is valid from 11/25/2016 00:01 Uhr until 11/27/2016 23:59 UTC+1.

Have fun shopping and happy Thanksgiving from WATERCOOL!


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> As a big Thank You to our international community, we have a discount code for the holiday. Please use "BlackFridayWC" during checkout in our shop to receive 10% off (does not stack with the 10% preorder discount on the FTW blocks). The code is valid from 11/25/2016 00:01 Uhr until 11/27/2016 23:59 UTC+1.
> 
> Have fun shopping and happy Thanksgiving from WATERCOOL!


Any picture of the FTW block please? Want to know what it looks like before pre-ordering.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Any picture of the FTW block please? Want to know what it looks like before pre-ordering.


+1 even though I already pre-ordered


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Any picture of the FTW block please? Want to know what it looks like before pre-ordering.


Sadly, I won't have any picture before next week. The overall look will be pretty much the same to those 1080 blocks. The dimensions differ slightly, since the FTW PCB is a bit wider, but the general design follows the 1080 and Titan XP blocks.


----------



## ruffhi

Anyone got a picture of the box that the heatkiller d5-tops come in? I am pretty sure I have two boxes downstairs in my basement but I am unsure what I should be looking for.

*Edit*: Google wasn't playing that nice with me ... lots of shows of the heatkiller IV (and its box) ... but I found it in a 



 at the 5:10 minute mark (link jumps right there).


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pm3tPAo1j

https://imageshack.com/i/pmqMsxqyj

1080 block.


----------



## khemist

Just noticed i have the inlet/outlet mixed up on the gpu, i never knew it was specific.

Will have to redo it tomorrow.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Just noticed i have the inlet/outlet mixed up on the gpu, i never knew it was specific.
> 
> Will have to redo it tomorrow.


How are you cooling it, external radiator?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/porIxZ1rj

Yeah.


----------



## Revan654

With the HEATKILLER D5-TOP is their any mounting device that WaterCool Sells that would fit ontop of a 140 fan Slot? I would like to attach the top to a open 140mm open slot in my PC case.


----------



## khemist

CPU and GPU block.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> With the HEATKILLER D5-TOP is their any mounting device that WaterCool Sells that would fit ontop of a 140 fan Slot? I would like to attach the top to a open 140mm open slot in my PC case.


No, there is no prebuilt part for that. But if I'm getting you right, you want to mount the D5 onto an empty fan slot, right? So, there is no fan mounted there? Then it should be very easy, as the top comes with predrilled holes (see here). You could get screws that match the thickness of your fan slot's mesh, and just screw the top in there.
I'm not sure if I'm explaining this good enough, please ask if you don't catch my drift...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU and GPU block.


Thanks for sharing! This looks like a really nice setup! What Case is this? And how does it look when the case is closed?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No, there is no prebuilt part for that. But if I'm getting you right, you want to mount the D5 onto an empty fan slot, right? So, there is no fan mounted there? Then it should be very easy, as the top comes with predrilled holes (see here). You could get screws that match the thickness of your fan slot's mesh, and just screw the top in there.
> I'm not sure if I'm explaining this good enough, please ask if you don't catch my drift...
> Thanks for sharing! This looks like a really nice setup! What Case is this? And how does it look when the case is closed?


https://imageshack.com/i/po8l2namj

Thanks, the case is a Caselabs BH7.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No, there is no prebuilt part for that. But if I'm getting you right, you want to mount the D5 onto an empty fan slot, right? So, there is no fan mounted there? Then it should be very easy, as the top comes with predrilled holes (see here). You could get screws that match the thickness of your fan slot's mesh, and just screw the top in there.
> I'm not sure if I'm explaining this good enough, please ask if you don't catch my drift...


I guess my concern was the holes on the D5 top would not reach the 140mm holes and would require additional hardware.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Installed the first Heatkiller block over at Xidax today...

Customer wanted something more unique, so I instantly recommended different blocks. Suffice to say he is quite excited now.

And I am really happy I was able to use them for a build!

Here was a quick shot on the iphone. Legit photos will be posted here soon.


----------



## ruffhi

I have a question about the flow restriction I should experience with a Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO (INTEL processor) Copper AN block.

I have 2 x 120.3 HWLabs multi-port radiators, 2 x D5 pumps in a EK-xtop dual pump header all cooling the above CPU block. No other blocks in the loop (currently).

Anyway ... running both pumps at 60% PWM, I get a flow rate that sits at 0.7 gpm.

I've just taken the CPU block out of the loop (effectively cooling nothing) and my flow rate has doubled (still at 60% PWM) to 1.4 gpm.

So ... the CPU block is doubling the restriction of the rest of the loop.

Thoughts? Comments? Is there an article looking at this block that includes a restriction graph?


----------



## Hellbilly

It's restrictive compared to a fair number of blocks, but not by much.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/4/

http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/03/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-cpu-waterblock/5/


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellbilly*
> 
> It's restrictive compared to a fair number of blocks, but not by much.
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/4/
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/03/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-cpu-waterblock/5/


Thanks for that. +REP


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for that. +REP


Don't forget that the "goofy" orientation (text on top left, inlet arrow port on top) will give you slightly better thermal performance (so says xtreme rigs). Coming from the Swiftech Apogee XL included my H240X it is hilarious how much better the IV Pro is. I didn't even need a flow meter to tell things have improved, I just looked at the water going through the tubing.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx. I'm not going to use the goofy orientation as that will throw off my tube runs. I will live with the reduction in performance.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I guess my concern was the holes on the D5 top would not reach the 140mm holes and would require additional hardware.


Sorry for the late answer, I was pretty busy the last couple days... Yes, you will definitely not reach the 140mm mounting holes. But in all cases I know, there is some sort of mesh covering the square area of the fan, and usually, the holes in this mesh are big enough for m3 or even m4 screws. So this is what I meant: just use the mesh-holes instead of the 140mm mounting holes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Installed the first Heatkiller block over at Xidax today...
> 
> Customer wanted something more unique, so I instantly recommended different blocks. Suffice to say he is quite excited now.
> 
> And I am really happy I was able to use them for a build!
> 
> Here was a quick shot on the iphone. Legit photos will be posted here soon.
> 
> [*img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2915854/[/img]


Cool, much appreciated! Thanks for the nice pic!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question about the flow restriction I should experience with a Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO (INTEL processor) Copper AN block.
> 
> I have 2 x 120.3 HWLabs multi-port radiators, 2 x D5 pumps in a EK-xtop dual pump header all cooling the above CPU block. No other blocks in the loop (currently).
> 
> Anyway ... running both pumps at 60% PWM, I get a flow rate that sits at 0.7 gpm.
> 
> I've just taken the CPU block out of the loop (effectively cooling nothing) and my flow rate has doubled (still at 60% PWM) to 1.4 gpm.
> 
> So ... the CPU block is doubling the restriction of the rest of the loop.
> 
> Thoughts? Comments? Is there an article looking at this block that includes a restriction graph?


The fact that a (any) waterblock offers WAY more restriction than any other component in the loop is absolutely normal. Just think about their inner setup: radiators are basically nothing but tubes inside a casing with fins around them. So, where should any resistance come from? It's just a tube with no blocking elements in them... A waterblock, on the other hand, forces the liquid through a jetplate that is designed to diminish the overall volume diamter. Right after that, the liquid is shot onto massive copper in right angle, just to be squeezed through tiny channels. Of course, this offers WAY more restriction than a radiator or tubing (which is, as stated, essentially the same). So, the doubling of restriction is exactly what one would expect to see and nothing to worry.

Apart from that, as stated by Hellbilly, the HEATKILLER IV's restriction is within the normal range. Now, set aside the fact that in my humble opinion, 0,7gpm is still somewhere between double to triple of what is necessary or useful. It still is pretty much the value that I would expect to see from such a lineup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Don't forget that the "goofy" orientation (text on top left, inlet arrow port on top) will give you slightly better thermal performance (so says xtreme rigs). Coming from the Swiftech Apogee XL included my H240X it is hilarious how much better the IV Pro is. I didn't even need a flow meter to tell things have improved, I just looked at the water going through the tubing.


In my experience, the orientation doesn't make much of a difference, and actually, the results of thermal bench point in the exact opposite direction. Both are testers that we have a lot of trust in, so I'd tend to say that the tiny differences by orientation are rather explained by margin of error. The important thing, however, is the right connection to the loop: inlet in the middle, outlet is the other one. Getting inlet and outlet wrong leads to rather significant drops in thermal performance and increase in restriction!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question about the flow restriction I should experience with a Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO (INTEL processor) Copper AN block.
> 
> I have 2 x 120.3 HWLabs multi-port radiators, 2 x D5 pumps in a EK-xtop dual pump header all cooling the above CPU block. No other blocks in the loop (currently).
> 
> Anyway ... running both pumps at 60% PWM, I get a flow rate that sits at 0.7 gpm.
> 
> I've just taken the CPU block out of the loop (effectively cooling nothing) and my flow rate has doubled (still at 60% PWM) to 1.4 gpm.
> 
> So ... the CPU block is doubling the restriction of the rest of the loop.
> 
> Thoughts? Comments? Is there an article looking at this block that includes a restriction graph?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fact that a (any) waterblock offers WAY more restriction than any other component in the loop is absolutely normal. Just think about their inner setup: radiators are basically nothing but tubes inside a casing with fins around them. So, where should any resistance come from? It's just a tube with no blocking elements in them... A waterblock, on the other hand, forces the liquid through a jetplate that is designed to diminish the overall volume diamter. Right after that, the liquid is shot onto massive copper in right angle, just to be squeezed through tiny channels. Of course, this offers WAY more restriction than a radiator or tubing (which is, as stated, essentially the same). So, the doubling of restriction is exactly what one would expect to see and nothing to worry.
> 
> Apart from that, as stated by Hellbilly, the HEATKILLER IV's restriction is within the normal range. Now, set aside the fact that in my humble opinion, 0,7gpm is still somewhere between double to triple of what is necessary or useful. It still is pretty much the value that I would expect to see from such a lineup.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your thoughts, comment and feedback. Much appreciated.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Installed the first Heatkiller block over at Xidax today...
> 
> Customer wanted something more unique, so I instantly recommended different blocks. Suffice to say he is quite excited now.
> 
> And I am really happy I was able to use them for a build!
> 
> Here was a quick shot on the iphone. Legit photos will be posted here soon.


That looks great. What fittings are those?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Sorry for the late answer, I was pretty busy the last couple days... Yes, you will definitely not reach the 140mm mounting holes. But in all cases I know, there is some sort of mesh covering the square area of the fan, and usually, the holes in this mesh are big enough for m3 or even m4 screws. So this is what I meant: just use the mesh-holes instead of the 140mm mounting holes.


I keep changing a few things. My Plan was to place the pump top ontop of 140 Fan which sits onto on one of my radiators. So their not really a mesh to screw the top into anything.

I know it's designed for other pumps in mind. Would the D5 Pump top work with this part you sell?

Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30101


----------



## VSG




----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ooooh, is that a preview to the new fittings they mentioned as being worked on? Also, man that reservoir is gorgeous!


----------



## VSG

Hate to break it to you but that's just a Bitspower compression fitting used to show the mirror polish on the GPU block base plate.

The reservoir is incredibly gorgeous though!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*


Oh maaaaan, that is a great picture! Never thought about this perspective. With the reflections in the glass, it's so Ub0r-pretty! May I use those pics (specially this one) on other forums / facebook page (with source, of course)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ooooh, is that a preview to the new fittings they mentioned as being worked on? Also, man that reservoir is gorgeous!


We do? That's news to me  As far as I know, we are currently not working on fittings and have no plan to do so in the next year - the schedule is already PACKED with other stuff. We are not reluctant to start doing fittings, however, sometime in the middle-distance future. Sorry to burst that bubble ://


----------



## Hellbilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That looks great. What fittings are those?


Those are the black Dual Tone Primochill Rigid Revolver fittings. Unfortunately now discontinued.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hate to break it to you but that's just a Bitspower compression fitting used to show the mirror polish on the GPU block base plate.
> 
> The reservoir is incredibly gorgeous though!


I'm sure I'll live








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We do? That's news to me  As far as I know, we are currently not working on fittings and have no plan to do so in the next year - the schedule is already PACKED with other stuff. We are not reluctant to start doing fittings, however, sometime in the middle-distance future. Sorry to burst that bubble ://


VSG cleared it up, I automatically assumed it was something new he was sent in that big box of doom as opposed to something that would look good for showing off the mirror finish ^_^;;;;;

Also, I'm rather glad to hear about a nicely packed schedule and plans, and look forward to finding out more over time ^_^


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Oh maaaaan, that is a great picture! Never thought about this perspective. With the reflections in the glass, it's so Ub0r-pretty! May I use those pics (specially this one) on other forums / facebook page (with source, of course)?


Of course, any pic I upload is without a watermark for that reason- share freely. In fact, check your email for higher res versions.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I keep changing a few things. My Plan was to place the pump top ontop of 140 Fan which sits onto on one of my radiators. So their not really a mesh to screw the top into anything.
> 
> I know it's designed for other pumps in mind. Would the D5 Pump top work with this part you sell?
> 
> Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30101


That part was designed a long time before the D5 was even released . We checked and the D5 Top does not fit onto the hole pattern. There MIGHT be a goofy orientation (somewhere around 50° turned) where three of four holes can be aligned with the longholes of the bracket. Feel free to try it yourself if the strange orientation doesn't bother you aesthetically...
As an alternative, you could try the mounting brackets originally designed for the Tube res. They SHOULD be compatible, but we don't actually recommend this, since we are not absolutely convinced that this setup will be robust enough...

Other than that, I'm sorry that I can't offer you any out of the box optimal solution...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Of course, any pic I upload is without a watermark for that reason- share freely. In fact, check your email for higher res versions.


Shameless crossplatform referencing


----------



## VSG




----------



## LiquidHaus

Xidax shoot with our latest X10


----------



## LiquidHaus

And here's the video we made filling it up


----------



## paskowitz

Sehr schön!


----------



## ruffhi

Any suggestions on how to clean CPU blocks? This is my Heatkiller IV block.

I will be putting a filter into my loop to (hopefully) catch some of that small crap.

Note ... the picture is over-exposed to capture the junk that the block caught.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Any suggestions on how to clean CPU blocks? This is my Heatkiller IV block.
> 
> I will be putting a filter into my loop to (hopefully) catch some of that small crap.
> 
> Note ... the picture is over-exposed to capture the junk that the block caught.


I would just get some sub boiling distilled water, let it sit in there for a bit and then use a compressed air gun to blast out any debris. Really though, the most important thing to do is determine where the gunk came from and fix that.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> And here's the video we made filling it up


THAT VID, man... Wow, I'm still drooling. You really put together a masterpiece! I'm very happy to see our parts in this beauty! Thanks for sharing!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Any suggestions on how to clean CPU blocks? This is my Heatkiller IV block.
> 
> I will be putting a filter into my loop to (hopefully) catch some of that small crap.
> 
> Note ... the picture is over-exposed to capture the junk that the block caught.
> 
> [*img]http://www.ruffhi.com/pics/LiquoriceBuild/LiqAsrt-0470-CPU-Block.jpg[/img]


My first question aims in the same direction as paskowith: first identify what caused this!
1. What fluid do you use? Any additives? Any dye? Corrossion inhibitor, biocide?
2. Do you use different metals in your loop? Any aluminum parts? Silver kill coil?
3. Did you clean and flush your radiators prior to installing them?

For cleaning it up, I would recommend some mild soapy water, letting it reest, than gently working it with a tooth brush (obviously, don'use that brush for your teeth anymore







). If that doesn't help, work your way up to more aggressive cleaning agents, for example the orange Cillit Bang. Please be very cautious with acidic agents like this, they DO react with copper! So don't leave the copper in contact with acidic cleaning agents for longer than 2-5 minutes, while still brushing with a tooth brush.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Any suggestions on how to clean CPU blocks? This is my Heatkiller IV block.
> 
> 
> 
> My first question aims in the same direction as paskowith: first identify what caused this!
> 1. What fluid do you use? Any additives? Any dye? Corrossion inhibitor, biocide?
Click to expand...

Distillered water. Nothing else. This PC is currently still in its 'build' phase. My Aquaero only has 60 days of use on it ... so that is about how long I have run this loop for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 2. Do you use different metals in your loop? Any aluminum parts? Silver kill coil?


Parts range from Monsoon res and plugs, mixture of monsoon and barrow fittings, HWLabs SR2 rads (x2) and EK pump top / heatkiller pump top. I don't believe I have any aluminium in there. The monsoon parts come with silver on them ... I also have a monsoon silver plug in my res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 3. Did you clean and flush your radiators prior to installing them?


I did - just water ... no chemicals. Ended up doing it multiple times, the last one with one of these filter systems and this sort of filter and then letting it pump distilled water through each rad overnight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> For cleaning it up, I would recommend some mild soapy water, letting it reest, than gently working it with a tooth brush (obviously, don'use that brush for your teeth anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). If that doesn't help, work your way up to more aggressive cleaning agents, for example the orange Cillit Bang. Please be very cautious with acidic agents like this, they DO react with copper! So don't leave the copper in contact with acidic cleaning agents for longer than 2-5 minutes, while still brushing with a tooth brush.


Noted.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> For cleaning it up, I would recommend some mild soapy water, letting it reest, than gently working it with a tooth brush (obviously, don'use that brush for your teeth anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). If that doesn't help, work your way up to more aggressive cleaning agents, for example the orange Cillit Bang. Please be very cautious with acidic agents like this, they DO react with copper! So don't leave the copper in contact with acidic cleaning agents for longer than 2-5 minutes, while still brushing with a tooth brush.


I cleaned the block, put everything back together and my flow us gone up from 0.7 gpm to 1.0 gpm. I hooked up my system to the filter and ran for a number of ours (pump --> rads --> filter --> res --> pump). I have included a filter in the run to the CPU block and I will monitor that.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Distillered water. Nothing else. This PC is currently still in its 'build' phase. My Aquaero only has 60 days of use on it ... so that is about how long I have run this loop for.
> Parts range from Monsoon res and plugs, mixture of monsoon and barrow fittings, HWLabs SR2 rads (x2) and EK pump top / heatkiller pump top. I don't believe I have any aluminium in there. The monsoon parts come with silver on them ... I also have a monsoon silver plug in my res.
> I did - just water ... no chemicals. Ended up doing it multiple times, the last one with one of these filter systems and this sort of filter and then letting it pump distilled water through each rad overnight.
> Noted.


Okay, two things give me red warning flags.
a) Cleaning out the radiators: we at watercool use round tubes as coolant passway. The most frequently used are, however, flat tubes, like this (image blatantly stolen by the gifted VSG at thermalbench):

These square shapes, however, are basically just four sheets of metal soldered to each others. That means that there are a LOT of soldering flux residues inside of the channel. THese chemicals are basically some kind of fat or grease, so they won't get washed out by water only. It is recommended to either use hot water or, even better, hot water with a grease-removing cleaning agent (for example Cillit Bang green or similar). I would highly recommend to always do this prior to installing flat tube radiators in a system.

b) Silver in a loop. Silver is a rather noble metal, usually by far the most noble metal found in a watercooling loop. As such, it acts as a very stron corrossive partner fr all lesser noble metals within the same loop, effectively corroding (in that order) nickel, brass and copper surfaces the fluid comes in contact with. Please NEVER use silver in a watercooling loop without adding a potent corrossion inhibitor (for example Innovatek Protect or pretty much any premix on the market). The benefits of silver (acting as a biocide) are easily outweighed by it's destructive effects of corroding especially nickel. Personally, I'd like to add that I have never seen a single instance of bio infestation in a closed loop with cleaned parts that ran distilled water, so in my opinion, the silver plugs are not necessary to begin with. Please also read the opinion of aquacomputer and this scientific analysis issued and published be EK: all major watercooling manufacturers agree on this point for a reason - please keep silver out of your loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I cleaned the block, put everything back together and my flow us gone up from 0.7 gpm to 1.0 gpm. I hooked up my system to the filter and ran for a number of ours (pump --> rads --> filter --> res --> pump). I have included a filter in the run to the CPU block and I will monitor that.


Do you have any mechanism where you can easily acces, maintain and clean that filter? For example ball valves before and after it?


----------



## VSG

A couple of more pics of the Heatkiller Tube:







Those are some bright LEDs!


----------



## Mads1

Got my heatkiller blocks, really impressed with the quality , total top notch gear


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Got my heatkiller blocks, really impressed with the quality , total top notch gear
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They are some nice blocks.
As of right now it looks as though they are not coming out with 1080 Ti cards. So I may have to settle for a regular 1080 with one of these waterblocks. Then again I could wait a little longer and just get the Titan X Pascal.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A couple of more pics of the Heatkiller Tube:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are some bright LEDs!


Are those white LEDs behind the red coolant, or red LEDs? Also, oh my, they're gorgeously bright.


----------



## VSG

That picture is red LEDs with clear water inside. They are quite bright:



and with no coolant to diffuse the light:


----------



## LiquidHaus

looking good, guys!

still anxious to see the FTW block though......


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

We received a great review for our Heatkiller Tube reservoir from our friend VSG at thermal bench. It's a great read, as usual, so if you're unsure if you want to treat yourself a new res for christmas: read his perspective! He adressed some interesting points, though, and we'd like to answer to those:

Packaging: Initially, we put the res in a foil-tube and wrapped it in bubble wrap. But, on some rare instances, there were chemical reactions with the acetal (POM) which led to discolorations in the POM where it had touched the foil. We couldn't recreate the effects in our shop, so we guess that it had something to do with climatic conditions either at the shipping of the individual items or with the storage conditions at the resellers. But to better be safe than sorry, we decided to protect the POM with the silk paper.

LED strip placement: We prototyped a version of the tube with the LEDs in the bottom, but this came with uneven illumination and stability problems. As you know, we are all for quality, so we waived that idea, and instead made use of the aesthetical pleasing struts. If a customer feels that the illumination is to uneven because of the placement in only one strut, you can put a comment in the checkout step of our shop and request a second strut with the cutout (instead of one regular one). We are happy to assemble the res accordingly and deliver it with two cutout struts for no additional fee.

RGB LEDs: we would have LOVED to do RGB strips. But RGB strips are another 2mm wider than regular ones, so we would have to make the struts 2 mm wider in square. This would have made the whole res WAY to bulky and screwed up the whole design. We are constantly on the lookout for RGB strips manufactured in 8mm wifth, if we should find ones, we are more than happy to offer them! Sadly, it seems that no LED manufacturer has heard our call up until now...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> still anxious to see the FTW block though......


I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the shipping schedule for the FTW blocks had to be postponed. The new schedule looks like this:

HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 FTW - ACRYL - 01/06/2017
HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 FTW - ACETAL - 01/06/2017
HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 FTW - ACRYL Ni - 01/13/2017
HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 FTW - ACETAL Ni - 01/13/2017
HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 FTW - ACETAL Ni-Bl - 01/20/2017

The reason is simple: the FTW graphics card is wider than usual cards, hence our waterblock has to be wider than all previous blocks. So we had to order raw material copper rods in another dimension than the ones we usually order, and the plant we order from didn't have the needed dimension. So they had to roll a new customized size only for us, and I don't know if you've ever been to a industrial size steel or copper mill, but those guys and their machines need their TIME to adjust to changes... All in all, this resulted in a delivery delay with the raw material for us, and this results in a (smaller) delivery delay for our customers.

We are very sorry for this and offer all preorder customers a small compensation. You should receive an email in the next few days with details if you preordered a FTW block.


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## Arctucas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Any suggestions on how to clean CPU blocks? This is my Heatkiller IV block.
> 
> I will be putting a filter into my loop to (hopefully) catch some of that small crap.
> 
> Note ... the picture is over-exposed to capture the junk that the block caught.


I see you posted that you already cleaned the block, and that was some nasty looking stuff!

I generally break down my system every two years to clean it.

I have some black staining inside the HK3.0, although nothing like yours. Possibly from the silver killcoil or the silver in the Tygon tubing? I only use distilled water plus three or four drops of benzalkonium chloride and the killcoil.

My method, if anyone is interested, is to submerge the disassembled block, minus the O-rings, in a bowl of lemon juice, the bottled stuff you buy at the grocers.

After twelve hours of soaking, I take an old, used, soft bristle toothbrush and gently brush, going with the direction of the fins.

Another twelve hours of soaking, and it is usually bright and clean.

Rinse with distilled water and re-assemble.


----------



## Revan654

1. With the MultiPort Top, Can I use any top size on the 200? For example the Multiport Top 100 on Tube 200 Reservoir?
2. If answered yes to above question, Is their any advantages of buying the larger size (MultiPort Top 200)?
3. I know you said RGB was to big to fit, What about UV? Any chance we will see UV strip down the road?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*


me too, buddy...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arctucas*
> 
> I see you posted that you already cleaned the block, and that was some nasty looking stuff!
> 
> I generally break down my system every two years to clean it.
> 
> I have some black staining inside the HK3.0, although nothing like yours. Possibly from the silver killcoil or the silver in the Tygon tubing? I only use distilled water plus three or four drops of benzalkonium chloride and the killcoil.
> 
> My method, if anyone is interested, is to submerge the disassembled block, minus the O-rings, in a bowl of lemon juice, the bottled stuff you buy at the grocers.
> 
> After twelve hours of soaking, I take an old, used, soft bristle toothbrush and gently brush, going with the direction of the fins.
> 
> Another twelve hours of soaking, and it is usually bright and clean.
> 
> Rinse with distilled water and re-assemble.


I'm having multiple problems with your method.
First of, the silver killcoil without any corrossion inhibitor in your loop is the very reason for the black staining you experience. Those "stains" aren't a question of color, but of corrossion: the silver in your loop corrodes and essentialy destroys all lesser noble metals in your loop: nickel, brass, and copper (amount of effect in that order).
The funky thing is that you try to "heal" the effect of corrossion by corroding your block intentionally EVEN MORE. Of course the block is bright and clean after 24 hours in pure acid: you just dissolved the top few nanometers of copper away!

Please, folks, NEVER use a silver kill coil without a potent corrossion inhibitor in your loop! You are building your loops inevitable death scenario there! And please, don't treat rather delicate metals as copper with highly agressive acids for extended periods of time...


----------



## Arctucas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> me too, buddy...
> I'm having multiple problems with your method.
> First of, the silver killcoil without any corrossion inhibitor in your loop is the very reason for the black staining you experience. Those "stains" aren't a question of color, but of corrossion: the silver in your loop corrodes and essentialy destroys all lesser noble metals in your loop: nickel, brass, and copper (amount of effect in that order).
> The funky thing is that you try to "heal" the effect of corrossion by corroding your block intentionally EVEN MORE. Of course the block is bright and clean after 24 hours in pure acid: you just dissolved the top few nanometers of copper away!
> 
> Please, folks, NEVER use a silver kill coil without a potent corrossion inhibitor in your loop! You are building your loops inevitable death scenario there! And please, don't treat rather delicate metals as copper with highly agressive acids for extended periods of time...


Funny thing is, no noticeable effect, e.g. degradation of cooling, after six years and three cleanings.

I appreciate your concern, but I believe I will continue with my methods.

Also, I was not aware that 5% citric acid was 'highly agressive (sic)'. I learn something everyday.

Thanks again.


----------



## paskowitz

Thought I would drop some pics in here...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. With the MultiPort Top, Can I use any top size on the 200? For example the Multiport Top 100 on Tube 200 Reservoir?
> 2. If answered yes to above question, Is their any advantages of buying the larger size (MultiPort Top 200)?
> 3. I know you said RGB was to big to fit, What about UV? Any chance we will see UV strip down the road?


1. +2. Technically, there is only one Multiport Top. The only differnce between the three articles in our shop is the lenght of the acrylic tube that we provide if you want to use one inlet in the top as fill. This tube's lenght varies according to the length of the reservoir itself. Hence, you can use any Multiport top on a Tube 200 Reservoir, but the small filling tube on the inside will be acoordingly shorter. We recommend using the according Multiport Tops, of course.
3. We haven't found a UV strip in the right width. If we will, we pretty surely will offer it to our customers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arctucas*
> 
> Funny thing is, no noticeable effect, e.g. degradation of cooling, after six years and three cleanings.
> 
> I appreciate your concern, but I believe I will continue with my methods.
> 
> Also, I was not aware that 5% citric acid was 'highly agressive (sic)'. I learn something everyday.
> 
> Thanks again.


I want to apologize if I came across a little harsh. The thing is that most of the complaints we get about "faulty" blocks can be traced back to user#caused corrossion, and most of the times, silver is the definite culprit. I'm happy for you that you don't experience any degradation of cooling, but the corroding effects of silver are a simple chemical fact, wether you or me like it or not. The black discoloration that you described yourself are the manifest proof of it. As I said, the corrossive effects of silver versus copper are rather smallish compared against nickel, so you might only experience the physical loss of a few nanometers of copper, which doesn't effect overall cooling performance so much. But on the long run, this will lead to the degradation of single fins eventually.

The reason why I'm pointing this out so drastically is to inform our customers (including you) about the consequences of silver in their loop. All the negative effects can be easily managed by using a corrossion inhibtor additive in the fluid. It's up to you, of course, but our advice is clear.

P:S.: I'm not a native speaker of the english language, so please forgive minor mistakes in formulation or spelling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Thought I would drop some pics in here...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great pics, thank you! Still loving your tubing!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> ... most of the complaints we get about "faulty" blocks can be traced back to user#caused corrossion, and most of the times, silver is the definite culprit.
> 
> {snip}
> 
> The reason why I'm pointing this out so drastically is to inform our customers (including you) about the consequences of silver in their loop. All the negative effects can be easily managed by using a corrossion inhibtor additive in the fluid.


I am planning on adding PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Protective Additive to my loop ... would that provide the protection you mention above?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I am planning on adding PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Protective Additive to my loop ... would that provide the protection you mention above?


I don't know that specific product myself. Judging from the description, yes, this would be a good choice. But, just for the record: this additive, like almost all corrossion inhibiting additives, doublefunctions as a biocide, thus rendering the silver unnecessary. So, I'd strongly suggest to kust use the additive and get rid of the silver alltogether.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I am planning on adding PrimoChill Liquid Utopia Protective Additive to my loop ... would that provide the protection you mention above?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know that specific product myself. Judging from the description, yes, this would be a good choice. But, just for the record: this additive, like almost all corrossion inhibiting additives, doublefunctions as a biocide, thus rendering the silver unnecessary. So, I'd strongly suggest to kust use the additive and get rid of the silver alltogether.
Click to expand...

Noted. Thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey folks,
late, but not forgotten: The WATERCOOL crew wishes all of you a merry Christmas! Hope you people found a lot of shiny PC parts under the tree









Additionally, I wanted to point out an outstanding mod using our hardware that was just released. Thailand based professional modder "Modder CROW" did a great Gigabyte G1 themed mod in a white Inwin909 - find



__ https://www.facebook.com/watercool/posts/1296408593750001


.


----------



## VSG

Happy holidays!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

You guys,
I'm enjoying our conversations in this thread very much. I'm looking forward to have many more with you guys. The whole WATERCOOL Crew wants to wish a great new year with new casemods, innovative ideas, thrilling setups and lots of fun in our community to all our friends and fans! Happy new year, everybody!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You guys,
> I'm enjoying our conversations in this thread very much. I'm looking forward to have many more with you guys. The whole WATERCOOL Crew wants to wish a great new year with new casemods, innovative ideas, thrilling setups and lots of fun in our community to all our friends and fans! Happy new year, everybody!


I look forward in continuing to read this thread and learn as time goes on. My original plans were to start my next build early this year, but due to my mother passing away in the last week my financial responsibilities have increased quite a bit. I still plan on a new build sometime here in the future, hopefully over the next year and a half.
I am having odd blackout issues and my cpu seems to be stuck in turbo at 3.9ghz all the time, so a new build is a must. Though it will not be as spectacular as I had originally planned.

Here is to the new year in hopes that it brings new opportunities that are awesome for everyone!

Happy New Year!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Jakob, reddit is so confused on why I don't have a gpu block yet

















__
https://www.reddit.com/r/5ljlrc/for_those_of_you_who_wanted_to_see_more/


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Jakob, reddit is so confused on why I don't have a gpu block yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/5ljlrc/for_those_of_you_who_wanted_to_see_more/


Think those EVGA blocks got pushed back further.

Wouldn't be suprised to see that they cancel those completely considering that there are options from other vendors and the cards have been available for some time now (both means limited market potential).

With the 1080Ti around the corner, watercool might be better off focusing on those.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Think those EVGA blocks got pushed back further.
> 
> Wouldn't be suprised to see that they cancel those completely considering that there are options from other vendors and the cards have been available for some time now (both means limited market potential).
> 
> With the 1080Ti around the corner, watercool might be better off focusing on those.


They got pushed to January 20th.

And the Ti will essentially be the same pcb as the other cards. Just different die size and memory chips. Assuming we're talking about reference pcb.

Changes that would be made through their rendering suite. Nothing over the top.


----------



## Revan654

This may sound like an odd question. Is their any way to replace the stainless steel plate at the bottom of the Reservoirs and get it in a different color or any way to color it without it affecting the water loop? With my color Theme the stainless steel would stick out.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This may sound like an odd question. Is their any way to replace the stainless steel plate at the bottom of the Reservoirs and get it in a different color or any way to color it without it affecting the water loop? With my color Theme the stainless steel would stick out.


You can remove it, it's just a plate held in place by two screws. But they don't offer any alternatives so you would have to come up with your own in terms of color.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> You can remove it, it's just a plate held in place by two screws. But they don't offer any alternatives so you would have to come up with your own in terms of color.


Ok, Thinking of Painting it and use some kind of sealing so the paint will not effect the coolant.


----------



## LiquidHaus

So I've been hearing that Ryzen's new AM4 platform will require a new bracket dimension on a couple different sites. Curious, as I don't see why they couldn't have left it the same. But if that's the case, I hope you guys can alter your Heatkiller IV Pro bracket! I am really tempted to try out Ryzen in the future.


----------



## Nameless101

Hello everyone!
I'm about to mount Heatkiller waterblocks to my RX 480s, but I've got a question before I do something stupid (not much experience with this sort of thing...). I bought the single slot brackets from Watercool, but aside from the bracket itself I did not get any mounting equipment. This is not necessarily a problem as I have suitably sized M3 screws as well as nuts to attach them. However, I do not have any plastic (PVC) washers to place between the screw/nut and the PCB. Is this a problem? Any insight is much appreciated.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Jakob, reddit is so confused on why I don't have a gpu block yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/5ljlrc/for_those_of_you_who_wanted_to_see_more/%5B/URL
> 
> This may sound like an odd question. Is their any way to replace the stainless steel plate at the bottom of the Reservoirs and get it in a different color or any way to color it without it affecting the water loop? With my color Theme the stainless steel would stick out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> You can remove it, it's just a plate held in place by two screws. But they don't offer any alternatives so you would have to come up with your own in terms of color.


This is correct. Thanks for answering









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> So I've been hearing that Ryzen's new AM4 platform will require a new bracket dimension on a couple different sites. Curious, as I don't see why they couldn't have left it the same. But if that's the case, I hope you guys can alter your Heatkiller IV Pro bracket! I am really tempted to try out Ryzen in the future.


We will definitely support for AM4. We are curently undecided if a backplate will be necessary, but there will definitely be a customized mounting bracket for this socket.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I'm about to mount Heatkiller waterblocks to my RX 480s, but I've got a question before I do something stupid (not much experience with this sort of thing...). I bought the single slot brackets from Watercool, but aside from the bracket itself I did not get any mounting equipment. This is not necessarily a problem as I have suitably sized M3 screws as well as nuts to attach them. However, I do not have any plastic (PVC) washers to place between the screw/nut and the PCB. Is this a problem? Any insight is much appreciated.


After you unscrewed the original I/O shield, you simply reuse the original screws and washers to mount the single slot bracket.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> After you unscrewed the original I/O shield, you simply reuse the original screws and washers to mount the single slot bracket.


In my case this was unfortunately not possible, as the original screws are too small and would only go into the (threaded) slots on the original IO bracket. In the meantime I did run into some other problems, but those are already being dealt with!

Here's my contribution to the thread; an almost complete family of Heatkillers:









Loving the look and feel of all of these parts!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Jakob, reddit is so confused on why I don't have a gpu block yet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Think those EVGA blocks got pushed back further.


Unfortunately, yes, they did. The Copper/Acetal version will ship beginning of next week, the other versions will also probably be one week late. I'm sorry...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Unfortunately, yes, they did. The Copper/Acetal version will ship beginning of next week, the other versions will also probably be one week late. I'm sorry...


it's all good man. I know it'll be worth it, so waiting one more week is no worries.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> it's all good man. I know it'll be worth it, so waiting one more week is no worries.


Oh, it will be worth it. Their current GPU blocks are also the best overall performers too based on my reference GTX 1080 tests- only bested by the active backplate on the Aquacomputer combo that helps with lower VRM temps.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> In my case this was unfortunately not possible, as the original screws are too small and would only go into the (threaded) slots on the original IO bracket.


My Apoligies!
I remembered the process from slot brackets from previous cards and just thought that it'd apply here too. I was wrong! There SHOULD have been a bag with M3x6 screws with M3 nuts. Please contact [email protected] if you didn't receive this screwset, we will send you a free replacement ASAP!

And thanks for your pictures, loving them!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh, it will be worth it. Their current GPU blocks are also the best overall performers too based on my reference GTX 1080 tests- only bested by the active backplate on the Aquacomputer combo that helps with lower VRM temps.


Hey, nice to hear! I'm looking forward to your review, as always! Yeah, the active backplate technology is great. Our own approach in this endeavour got stuck somewhere between all the new water blocks since the 1080 release... It is on our schedule for 2017, though!
Heatkiller
Btw, you guys: I finally kicked off our Twitter-Profile: please feel free to follow https://twitter.com/WatercoolEN , use the hastags #Watercool and #Heatkiller , and send me pics from your rigs - I'd like to do a "satisfied customers" - kinda gallery. What do you think?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Love the sound of a satisfied customers gallery, even if I neglect my twitter account.

With waterblock, will the Strix 1080 block still be happening?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh, it will be worth it. Their current GPU blocks are also the best overall performers too based on my reference GTX 1080 tests- only bested by the active backplate on the Aquacomputer combo that helps with lower VRM temps.


Yessir! I am definitely happy about their performance. They had the best performing blocks when I had my four 7970s all blocked up.

That Aquacomputer active backplate is a really cool idea. Awesome initiative on their part. If I only I could run both together lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Btw, you guys: I finally kicked off our Twitter-Profile: please feel free to follow https://twitter.com/WatercoolEN , use the hastags #Watercool and #Heatkiller , and send me pics from your rigs - I'd like to do a "satisfied customers" - kinda gallery. What do you think?


I am digging the idea quite a bit. However, in my honest opinion - Instagram is constantly blowing up with computer photos. There are tens of pages with tens of thousands of followers constantly re-posting awesome rigs they find on the internet. Those hashtags carry much weight through that platform. People prefer to look at a picture than read text unfortunately. I am sure that's why instagram is huge for computer stuff.

It's why I've been given control of the Xidax instagram account. I'd like to say I know instagram's ins and outs pretty well.

Not too sure about Twitter though. I have had a Twitter for years and barely use it. I mainly just follow a couple people that are deep in the industry. They tweet about something not talked about with the public and it's usually heard on twitter for a couple weeks before it goes public.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> So I've been hearing that Ryzen's new AM4 platform will require a new bracket dimension on a couple different sites. Curious, as I don't see why they couldn't have left it the same. But if that's the case, I hope you guys can alter your Heatkiller IV Pro bracket! I am really tempted to try out Ryzen in the future.


I still owed you a definite answer on this one, and I just let a picture speak for itself:



Boom. There you go







All Pre-Production is done and prototyped. Now we just wait for one physical CPU to do a final testfit before we release it. Should be publicly available at thhe same time as the CPUs themselves.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> After you unscrewed the original I/O shield, you simply reuse the original screws and washers to mount the single slot bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> In my case this was unfortunately not possible, as the original screws are too small and would only go into the (threaded) slots on the original IO bracket. In the meantime I did run into some other problems, but those are already being dealt with!
> 
> Here's my contribution to the thread; an almost complete family of Heatkillers:
> 
> 
> 
> Loving the look and feel of all of these parts!
Click to expand...

That D5 pump kit is really sexy. Wish they had a housing for the pump top itself, though. I currently have a DDC1-T with the Heatkiller top on it, and it sucks. Not the top, but the actual pump just sucks. Noisy, not speed controlled, just garbage. I regret spending money on the pump itself (the pump top is actually really awesome, so, no gripe about Watercool's product). Probably go for another D5 here shortly and I think I may have to go with the kit that you have because it just looks awesome.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> That D5 pump kit is really sexy. Wish they had a housing for the pump top itself, though. I currently have a DDC1-T with the Heatkiller top on it, and it sucks. Not the top, but the actual pump just sucks. Noisy, not speed controlled, just garbage. I regret spending money on the pump itself (the pump top is actually really awesome, so, no gripe about Watercool's product). Probably go for another D5 here shortly and I think I may have to go with the kit that you have because it just looks awesome.


Housing would be an issue for some pumps like Aquacomputers aquabus editions. Since it sticks out a bit more then the standard pump.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> That D5 pump kit is really sexy. Wish they had a housing for the pump top itself, though. I currently have a DDC1-T with the Heatkiller top on it, and it sucks. Not the top, but the actual pump just sucks. Noisy, not speed controlled, just garbage. I regret spending money on the pump itself (the pump top is actually really awesome, so, no gripe about Watercool's product). Probably go for another D5 here shortly and I think I may have to go with the kit that you have because it just looks awesome.


I runa DDC-1T+ in my personal rig. I agree, it is noisy when it runs at 12V. But I run it (and pretty much my whole watercooling gear) via an aquaero 5LT, which throttles it down to 9V, where it is damn silent to my ear. So maybe try a 12V --> 9V cable adapter first, might safe you some bucks.

Or, go and buy our products. They are quite good, acutally, you know


----------



## Revan654

If I didn't already have a D5 top for mine I would grab Heatkiller top, It would make connecting two pump tops much easier. My current top only has one outlet.










Here is My Titan X Block with Backplate arriving.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Yessir! I am definitely happy about their performance. They had the best performing blocks when I had my four 7970s all blocked up.
> 
> That Aquacomputer active backplate is a really cool idea. Awesome initiative on their part. If I only I could run both together lol
> I am digging the idea quite a bit. However, in my honest opinion - Instagram is constantly blowing up with computer photos. There are tens of pages with tens of thousands of followers constantly re-posting awesome rigs they find on the internet. Those hashtags carry much weight through that platform. People prefer to look at a picture than read text unfortunately. I am sure that's why instagram is huge for computer stuff.
> 
> It's why I've been given control of the Xidax instagram account. I'd like to say I know instagram's ins and outs pretty well.
> 
> Not too sure about Twitter though. I have had a Twitter for years and barely use it. I mainly just follow a couple people that are deep in the industry. They tweet about something not talked about with the public and it's usually heard on twitter for a couple weeks before it goes public.


I would have to agree on the social media front. Instagram is far better suited to images. Twitter is more live discussion or news reactions ATM. 2 years ago, I would have said just be on Twitter, but now things have really shifted. YouTubers, celebs, modders, all have Instagram accounts. That would be my target. Doing weekly posts on a theme is also a good strategy. If people know when something will be posted, they will be more likely to check back. Sorry for being OT, just thought I would throw that out there.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> That D5 pump kit is really sexy. Wish they had a housing for the pump top itself, though. I currently have a DDC1-T with the Heatkiller top on it, and it sucks. Not the top, but the actual pump just sucks. Noisy, not speed controlled, just garbage. I regret spending money on the pump itself (the pump top is actually really awesome, so, no gripe about Watercool's product). Probably go for another D5 here shortly and I think I may have to go with the kit that you have because it just looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> I runa DDC-1T+ in my personal rig. I agree, it is noisy when it runs at 12V. But I run it (and pretty much my whole watercooling gear) via an aquaero 5LT, which throttles it down to 9V, where it is damn silent to my ear. So maybe try a 12V --> 9V cable adapter first, might safe you some bucks.
> 
> Or, go and buy our products. They are quite good, acutally, you know
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have an Aqauero 6 XT, but honestly, the rig needs some updating. I more than likely will just buy another D5 and get your dress kit for it. I have the Heatkiller pump top on the 1T and have used various blocks from you guys in the past. Always good gear from you guys!


----------



## Yarrick2000

I really like the Heatkiller reseroir!! Is just amazing...
Currently im living in China but next week i will go to europe for holidays and im interested on buying tis reservoir. I have some questions...
I need to know the exact height diensions of the Heatkiller 200 reservoir including D5 pump. for clearence purposes...
Currently i own an Aquacomputer Aqualis 450ml reservoir but im not really happy with the flow on it, and the water effect is not what I was expecting...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I am digging the idea quite a bit. However, in my honest opinion - Instagram is constantly blowing up with computer photos. There are tens of pages with tens of thousands of followers constantly re-posting awesome rigs they find on the internet. Those hashtags carry much weight through that platform. People prefer to look at a picture than read text unfortunately. I am sure that's why instagram is huge for computer stuff.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I would have to agree on the social media front. Instagram is far better suited to images. Twitter is more live discussion or news reactions ATM. 2 years ago, I would have said just be on Twitter, but now things have really shifted. YouTubers, celebs, modders, all have Instagram accounts. That would be my target. Doing weekly posts on a theme is also a good strategy. If people know when something will be posted, they will be more likely to check back. Sorry for being OT, just thought I would throw that out there.


Thanks for the input, you guys! Very much appreciated. Expect to see a Watercool instagram account in a couple of weeks - first, I have to see how this stuff works









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yarrick2000*
> 
> I really like the Heatkiller reseroir!! Is just amazing...
> Currently im living in China but next week i will go to europe for holidays and im interested on buying tis reservoir. I have some questions...
> I need to know the exact height diensions of the Heatkiller 200 reservoir including D5 pump. for clearence purposes...
> Currently i own an Aquacomputer Aqualis 450ml reservoir but im not really happy with the flow on it, and the water effect is not what I was expecting...


No problem! On the product page in our shop are two technical drawings including all measurements. I hope those help.


----------



## Yarrick2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for the input, you guys! Very much appreciated. Expect to see a Watercool instagram account in a couple of weeks - first, I have to see how this stuff works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem! On the product page in our shop are two technical drawings including all measurements. I hope those help.


Helps a lot!! Hope to get the eatkiller Tube Asap!! Look so damm good


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I still owed you a definite answer on this one, and I just let a picture speak for itself:
> 
> 
> 
> Boom. There you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All Pre-Production is done and prototyped. Now we just wait for one physical CPU to do a final testfit before we release it. Should be publicly available at thhe same time as the CPUs themselves.


Now that's what I'm tolkien about!!! Awesome stuff man. Glad to see you're guys are on the initiative.









Man, have you guys seen the Bitspower block on that new Z270 Asus Maximus? Looks like a old school tape deck but it's got a ton of tech inside the block. Very impressive. I wouldn't get it though - why? Because I'm personally not a fan of monoblocks. Makes things way too easy!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I runa DDC-1T+ in my personal rig. I agree, it is noisy when it runs at 12V. But I run it (and pretty much my whole watercooling gear) via an aquaero 5LT, which throttles it down to 9V, where it is damn silent to my ear. So maybe try a 12V --> 9V cable adapter first, might safe you some bucks.
> 
> Or, go and buy our products. They are quite good, acutally, you know


I tell you what, I snagged those Watercool D5s with your pump tops for one of our show systems and they are one of my favorite aspects of the build. So damn clean. But for our other systems, we've had to switch to Alphacool's new VPP755 pump. We apparently got a bad batch of normal D5s from Performance PCs (various company D5s) and they kept starting to grind in customer systems.

Since I had then a chance to get some hands on experience with the new VPP755, I'd want on for myself. It is sooo quiet! Seems to move more, but haven't had a chance to stick a flow meter on them to see changes for our normal config'd systems. I am definitely impressed though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for the input, you guys! Very much appreciated. Expect to see a Watercool instagram account in a couple of weeks - first, I have to see how this stuff works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I believe you guys already have an Instagram account. I follow you guys already and I had a chance to have our Xidax account tag your account in a couple photos. You have product photos on it at the moment but if you can get some customer builds or the like on there, I know for a fact people will appreciate it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Guess what you're looking at. Hint: It will definitely ship on next Tuesday...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Guess what you're looking at. Hint: It will definitely ship on next Tuesday...


YESSSSS.

Looks great, Jakob!

Am I safe to assume that since the copper is going out next Tuesday, the nickel will go out a week after?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Am I safe to assume that since the copper is going out next Tuesday, the nickel will go out a week after?


Considering our track record for kept delivery estimations, I just kept my silence till I knew an EXACT date. Nickel/Acryl and Nickel/Acetal will leave our shop on next Wednesday, Nickel/black will leave shop at Friday.


----------



## thetherington

Hi Watercool-Jakob,

Would you be able to advise if the Bitspower Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31MM) would be able to fit between two heatkiller iv gtx 1080 waterblocks in a matx motherboard sli configuration? I guess the right term would be a 1x slot spacing.





the waterblock inlet/outlet header seem to protrude on both sides, and i'm wondering if 22mm is not short enough..


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Hi Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> Would you be able to advise if the Bitspower Dual G1/4" Adjustable Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31MM) would be able to fit between two heatkiller iv gtx 1080 waterblocks in a matx motherboard sli configuration? I guess the right term would be a 1x slot spacing.
> 
> the waterblock inlet/outlet header seem to protrude on both sides, and i'm wondering if 22mm is not short enough..


The relevant distance here is the distance between two PCI slots, which is defined in the ATX formfactors guide at page 12: 0.800inch = 20.32mm. The measurements of the connection terminal can be found at the spare parts's product page: 20x20mm. So, if I'm not completely wrong here, the distance between the rear end of one terminal to the front end of the adjacent terminal should be 18.32mm.

Tha said, the measurements of 22-31mm wouldn't make any sense in any scenario (one slot distance: 18.32 mm, twio slot distance: 38,64mm), so I'm wondering if the product designers at Bitspower missed something or if I missed something. I'd appreciate the two cents of anybody, really





















:


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The relevant distance here is the distance between two PCI slots, which is defined in the ATX formfactors guide at page 12: 0.800inch = 20.32mm. The measurements of the connection terminal can be found at the spare parts's product page: 20x20mm. So, if I'm not completely wrong here, the distance between the rear end of one terminal to the front end of the adjacent terminal should be 18.32mm.
> 
> Tha said, the measurements of 22-31mm wouldn't make any sense in any scenario (one slot distance: 18.32 mm, twio slot distance: 38,64mm), so I'm wondering if the product designers at Bitspower missed something or if I missed something. I'd appreciate the two cents of anybody, really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Thanks Jacob. Below is a picture to better clarify the GPU spacing. Unfortunately the 1 slot or 0 slot spacing term is used interchangeably with sli matx motherboards











The fitting is intended to work in this PCI spacing setup, however the fitting design is really old (for todays standards). Much older than the heatkiller IV gtx1080 block.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Thanks Jacob. Below is a picture to better clarify the GPU spacing. Unfortunately the 1 slot or 0 slot spacing term is used interchangeably with sli matx motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fitting is intended to work in this PCI spacing setup, however the fitting design is really old (for todays standards). Much older than the heatkiller IV gtx1080 block.


Okay. That would be a two slot distance in my words, since there is one slot in between. But still, I hit a dead end at the calculation of 38.64mm distance from the rear end of one terminal to the front end of the other. I'm serious here, guys, please advise - do I miscalculate something?


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay. That would be a two slot distance in my words, since there is one slot in between. But still, I hit a dead end at the calculation of 38.64mm distance from the rear end of one terminal to the front end of the other. I'm serious here, guys, please advise - do I miscalculate something?


My calculation is a bit different. Knowing that the block terminal inlet/outlet header is 20mm wide and taking account that there's about 40.64mm distance between the PCI 16x slots. It would seem there's about 20.64mm from terminal-terminal - about a **** hair too short. However some bendy bendy might make it work. Thanks


----------



## enragedSlime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> My calculation is a bit different. Knowing that the block terminal inlet/outlet header is 20mm wide and taking account that there's about 40.64mm distance between the PCI 16x slots. It would seem there's about 20.64mm from terminal-terminal - about a **** hair too short. However some bendy bendy might make it work. Thanks


There's also a version of the fitting that goes up to 22mm:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> My calculation is a bit different. Knowing that the block terminal inlet/outlet header is 20mm wide and taking account that there's about 40.64mm distance between the PCI 16x slots. It would seem there's about 20.64mm from terminal-terminal - about a **** hair too short. However some bendy bendy might make it work. Thanks


:doh:I am SO stupid. Obviously you are right and I mistook one complete decimal!







Thanks for correcting me, I could see that my calculation had to be wrong, I just couldn't find my mistake!

It seems as if the connector by eneagedSlime should work.


----------



## Wally West

Hey, I have an InWin 303 and I have a radiator of 28mm and a fan of 25mm (Total=53mm). Now i'm trying to figure if I can use an heatkiller 150 DDC and a 90degree fitting at the top?

So. is 247mm enough for a 90 degree fitting, the heatkiller 150 ddc and the radiator mount? (I want to mount it on the radiator, perpendicularly)


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, I have an InWin 303 and I have a radiator of 28mm and a fan of 25mm (Total=53mm). Now i'm trying to figure if I can use an heatkiller 150 DDC and a 90degree fitting at the top?
> 
> So. is 247mm enough for a 90 degree fitting, the heatkiller 150 ddc and the radiator mount? (I want to mount it on the radiator, perpendicularly)


I'm not entirely sure if I understand your idea correctly. Please see this image for sizes:


As you can see, the Tube itself is 216mm, so it pretty much depends on the measurements of your fitting, I'd say.


----------



## Wally West

I figured out another way to do my loop. Also, do you have any plan to do it white?


----------



## VSG




----------



## WhiteWulfe

.... ..... ... VSG those are so sexy I'd almost consider getting a reference block because of just how sexy they are!

Or are those the FTW! blocks?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> .... ..... ... VSG those are so sexy I'd almost consider getting a reference block because of just how sexy they are!
> 
> Or are those the FTW! blocks?


Oh no, just the reference GTX 1080 block. Sadly the movers misplaced a box which had the Heatkiller backplate, but at least it was after testing was done


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh no, just the reference GTX 1080 block. Sadly the movers misplaced a box which had the Heatkiller backplate, but at least it was after testing was done


Ahhhhhh. It's still a gorgeous block and I lookk forward to the review









Sorry to hear about the movers misplacing a box - hope there wasn't too much extra in said box.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ahhhhhh. It's still a gorgeous block and I lookk forward to the review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about the movers misplacing a box - hope there wasn't too much extra in said box.


Mostly some fans, but nothing that were ever going to be used again. Thankfully the block was in another box so I could finish taking pics for the upcoming review.


----------



## Wally West

Hey, is it possible to remove the reservoir from the heatkiller tube 150 ddc because I want to plastidip everything in white?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, is it possible to remove the reservoir from the heatkiller tube 150 ddc because I want to plastidip everything in white?


Easily! You need some hex drivers to remove the screws but every single part is removable. Here's the 200 D5 for example:



The bits with the engraving or etching can be masked off with painter's tape if you want to preserve them.


----------



## Wally West

Thanks! I'm planning to use it for my future AMD RyZen build!


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Easily! You need some hex drivers to remove the screws but every single part is removable. Here's the 200 D5 for example:
> 
> 
> 
> The bits with the engraving or etching can be masked off with painter's tape if you want to preserve them.


I'm trying to fit a heatkiller tube 150 DDC on a fan and I have arround 300-310mm of clearance (bottom of my case to the PSU shroud - InWin 303).

Heatkiller 150 DDC: 227mm
Radiator: 28mm
Fan: 25mm
Total of 280mm

But I forgot the the pump monting bracket. Do you have something like this, but shorter? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan


----------



## VSG

I am not with Watercool









But yes, they have a fan mounting kit for their Heatkiller Tube reservoirs.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Fingers crossed my FTW block ships today!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Fingers crossed my FTW block ships today!


Wanna know what it looks like?

Ah, I know you do!

Ladies and Gentlemen, it is my great pleasure to give to you: The EVGA GeForce GTX 1070/1080 FTW water block!



It comes with a preinstalled RGB LED strip that directly connects to the header on the graphics card and is fully compatible to the original EVGA backplate!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Wanna know what it looks like?
> 
> Ah, I know you do!
> 
> Ladies and Gentlemen, it is my great pleasure to give to you: The EVGA GeForce GTX 1070/1080 FTW water block!
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with a preinstalled RGB LED strip that directly connects to the header on the graphics card and is fully compatible to the original EVGA backplate!


























I am so excited.

Best looking waterblocks on the market. Without a doubt.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
Maybe you know about The ModZoo, a supergroup of high profile PC modders, including Bill, owner of mnpctech. These guys have weekly hangouts on their YouTube Channel where they discuss different broader topics every week and the most recent developments in the industry. It is my great honour to announce that they asked me to join them as a guest for an episode about watercooling, the watercooling industry and how the scene evolved through the last couple of years! So feel free to tune in on

*Sunday, February 12th, 4PM CST on* *The ModZoo YouTube Channel*

and join us in the chat during the Live Hangout. If you feel that there is ANYTHING you EVER wanted to know from me personally or from Watercool as a company, now is your time: please post all questions that come to your mind in the dedicated questioning thread, I will try to answer everything as honest as possible!


----------



## VSG

Nice, will catch it then.


----------



## mastabog

A question for long-time users of the Heatkiller D5 top (this one) if any such users are around here: were there any revisions to this top since 2015? Some aftermarket D5 tops (used to) have design flaws that would gradually wear out the pump and eventually kill it completely - will not name names. If there were no hardware revisions, have there been any reports of problems with this top?


----------



## Revan654

1. The metal plate at the bottom of the res, Is it 100% needed? Only reason I ask is silver would stick out in my build. It doesn't look to be wise to paint it since it comes into contact with the coolant. I'm not aware of any kind of protective seal that could be used in combination with paint and be 100% safe with Coolant.
2. Anyone know of any place who would do a modded plate in black?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastabog*
> 
> A question for long-time users of the Heatkiller D5 top (this one) if any such users are around here: were there any revisions to this top since 2015? Some aftermarket D5 tops (used to) have design flaws that would gradually wear out the pump and eventually kill it completely - will not name names. If there were no hardware revisions, have there been any reports of problems with this top?


I have 2 of those tops in a dual loop right now, they have been running pretty much non-stop since last July. No problems to report so far, and they look awesome!


----------



## suzuki

Hi guys !
I am doing a project in a Tower 900 case and i want to use 2 of Heatkiller D5 Tubes in it.
Currently i have only on Reservoir,planning to buy one more soon.
How is the lightning of the reservoir with the Led accessory which they have on sale on site ? I cannot imagine that it's actually uniform difused.
Is there any chance we can upgrade later to a bigger version (ex 200 mm) or everytime we have to buy a different reservoir ?
The multiport on top,if i don't have it for my first reservoir,how can i order it ?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suzuki*
> 
> Hi guys !
> I am doing a project in a Tower 900 case and i want to use 2 of Heatkiller D5 Tubes in it.
> Currently i have only on Reservoir,planning to buy one more soon.
> How is the lightning of the reservoir with the Led accessory which they have on sale on site ? I cannot imagine that it's actually uniform difused.
> Is there any chance we can upgrade later to a bigger version (ex 200 mm) or everytime we have to buy a different reservoir ?
> The multiport on top,if i don't have it for my first reservoir,how can i order it ?


For illumination, please see this post and follow-ups.
If you have a smaller rerservoir and want to upgrade to a bigger one later on, we can surely find some ways to do that. Feel free to contact us if the need arises. But 200mm is the biggest we are currently planning.
You can buy the additional Multiport Top here as a additional accessory. Or you order it toghether with your second Tube, as a free option replacing the original top.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Today, I'd like to show you our brand new HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1070 and 1080 FTW from EVGA.

As usual, there are different versions of this water block to choose from. there are three different versions with tops made from acrylic glass (Plexi GS) and two versions with ACETAL tops. All versions vover the entire PCB. The finishing touch is a cover made from stainless steel, which matches perfectly with the nickel versions especially.

All versions share the HEATKILLER® IV VGA serie's highperforming cooling structure with central flow layout. This ensures optimal flow over the GPU while improving overall flow restriction.

A special highlight of these blocks is the included illumination. If you grew fond of the stock cooler's RGB illumination, you can keep this feature when installing one of the acrylic versions. We included a RGB LED strip under the front cover. You simply plug it into the onboard LED port. Then, you can control the illumination through the EVGA PrecisionOC software package.

Talking about accessorys: Precut thermal pads are part of the delivery scope, just as mounting material for usage of the original EVGA backplate. Yes, you read correctly: the water block is fully compatible to the original backplate. If you don't like this, we also offer a matching HEATKILLER ® IV eBC backplate.

The waterblock is compatible to the High bandwidth SLI conncetors both from EVGA and NVIDIA. The block is compatible to the following cards:

EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW DT GAMING ACX 3.0

EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW DT GAMING ACX 3.0

And here is some eyecandy:


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Absolutely gorgeous blocks!


----------



## paskowitz

I'm reminded that the LED implementation is really good on your blocks.


----------



## R-o-D

Yes the LED setup is great. Do you have a picture of the stainless cover?


----------



## Revan654

Question: Is their any plans for doing a block for MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X or is their a block you currently sell that fits that GPU?


----------



## thetherington

What's up Heakiller friends. I was productive this weekend and finished the build. It turns out the Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31mm) fitted fine to do the SLI bridge.













More pictures here:



http://imgur.com/O4u3b


----------



## atomicus

Are there any plans for a 1070 Strix block at all?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Absolutely gorgeous blocks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I'm reminded that the LED implementation is really good on your blocks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R-o-D*
> 
> Yes the LED setup is great. Do you have a picture of the stainless cover?


Thanks for all those compliments! We're happy that you guys are happy









Re stainless steel cover: Yes, it's already there. The front cover over the Acrylic part that leaves only that center window free. That is stainless steel (Or anodized stainless steel for the Ni-Bl version).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Question: Is their any plans for doing a block for MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X or is their a block you currently sell that fits that GPU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> Are there any plans for a 1070 Strix block at all?


Nope, neither nor. We are happy that we finally got the FTW block out to the customers. The next block we will put out will be for the 1080Ti, and we'll probably also support one or two custom PCB layouts for the 1080Ti generation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> What's up Heakiller friends. I was productive this weekend and finished the build. It turns out the Aqua Link Pipe I (22-31mm) fitted fine to do the SLI bridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2957432/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> 
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2957438/width/350/height/700[/IMG]
> 
> More pictures here:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/O4u3b


Thanks for sharing! Looks really awesome! I'm always impressed how people can reach into these tight spaces and work in such small cases, my hands are too big for these kind of things (or I'm too clumsy, who knows







)!


----------



## VSG

Cue WCCF post coming up soon: "Watercool rep confirms Nvidia 1080Ti coming soon"


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey @Watercool-Jakob are you saying you will have new thermal pads for the original EVGA backplate, coming with the block? Or are you saying it's simply just compatible? Also, I did not know that you were making backplates for these cards. I thought it was just the block.

I never grabbed the extra thermal pads EVGA was giving out to 1080 FTW customers back when there were articles saying the cards were burning up because of the lack of backplate pads. I was never worried because my fans rpms were always higher to negate high temps when overclocking.

Having some thermal pads for the original backplate would be a welcome addition. Could you clarify this for me?


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The next block we will put out will be for the 1080Ti, and we'll probably also support one or two custom PCB layouts for the 1080Ti generation.


Nice! What about VEGA?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hey @Watercool-Jakob are you saying you will have new thermal pads for the original EVGA backplate, coming with the block? Or are you saying it's simply just compatible? Also, I did not know that you were making backplates for these cards. I thought it was just the block.
> 
> I never grabbed the extra thermal pads EVGA was giving out to 1080 FTW customers back when there were articles saying the cards were burning up because of the lack of backplate pads. I was never worried because my fans rpms were always higher to negate high temps when overclocking.
> 
> Having some thermal pads for the original backplate would be a welcome addition. Could you clarify this for me?


That thermal pad kit from EVGA is for the ACX cooler, not the backplate. So you are good with what you have.


----------



## warpuck

Has there been a adapter for Heatkiller 3 and zen announced ?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That thermal pad kit from EVGA is for the ACX cooler, not the backplate. So you are good with what you have.


Though I would love to trust your word on that - knowing there were pads added for the cooler. But there were also pads added for the backplate.

What I'm referring to:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Nope, neither nor. We are happy that we finally got the FTW block out to the customers. The next block we will put out will be for the 1080Ti, and we'll probably also support one or two custom PCB layouts for the 1080Ti generation.


ok, Thanks for info. I'll place my order for dual Tube 200 + Parts. Was double checking before placing my order.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Though I would love to trust your word on that - knowing there were pads added for the cooler. But there were also pads added for the backplate.
> 
> What I'm referring to:


I have the kit here from them and tested it, the spare pads do nothing for the backplate. It's a piece of thin aluminum with a plastic cover underneath, it's really more aesthetic than functional.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have the kit here from them and tested it, the spare pads do nothing for the backplate. It's a piece of thin aluminum with a plastic cover underneath, it's really more aesthetic than functional.


I'll take your word then. Thanks man.

btw, got my shipping notification for my FTW block


----------



## turtletrax

Doh!!

Ordered a Heatkiller tube a couple days ago and ordered new struts and multiport top and didn't notice you can speciffically swap the black struts and stock top for your chosen replacement.

I was cruising through this thread and saw Jacob mention it... Also, would have gone for the double light bar addition, and grabbed another led strip. Live and learn I guess! Usually do more homework before a purchase, but live and learn I suppose.

And since I am here, I should mention the issue I had with my two nickle/plexiglass 1080 heatkiller blocks I got in June. Both of the plexiglass tops required about 5 hours of sanding and then a few hours of Polish each to get them to look like the photos online. They had terrible toolmarks and were completely hazed to the point you couldn't really see the internals.

I am not really upset as it was an interesting learning experience to learn how to polish plexiglass to complete clarity, but I spent the most I had ever spent on two blocks and I have had at least two dozen. Then I had to source and purchase 400 to 3000 grit wet sanding paper, acrylic polish and a drill attachment foam polisher and then the man hours to get it looking great.

Just wondering if I was just u lucky or what?

Some images...

Before polish

Capture6.JPG 75k .JPG file


Almost complete

blocks.JPG 279k .JPG file


Installed

cards1.JPG 265k .JPG file


----------



## Wally West

Hey Jacob, I ordered a full kit of heatkiller 150 DDC on aquatuning, but it look like it's not available on a lot of retailer. Do you know when aquatuning will receive more stock?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turtletrax*
> 
> Doh!!
> 
> Ordered a Heatkiller tube a couple days ago and ordered new struts and multiport top and didn't notice you can speciffically swap the black struts and stock top for your chosen replacement.
> 
> I was cruising through this thread and saw Jacob mention it... Also, would have gone for the double light bar addition, and grabbed another led strip. Live and learn I guess! Usually do more homework before a purchase, but live and learn I suppose.


Ah, that is unfortunate for sure. Did you already get the shipping notification? If not, you could send me your order number with the exact replacement you wish for via PM, then I can see if the order is still inhouse and can be changed last minute.
Quote:


> And since I am here, I should mention the issue I had with my two nickle/plexiglass 1080 heatkiller blocks I got in June. Both of the plexiglass tops required about 5 hours of sanding and then a few hours of Polish each to get them to look like the photos online. They had terrible toolmarks and were completely hazed to the point you couldn't really see the internals.
> 
> I am not really upset as it was an interesting learning experience to learn how to polish plexiglass to complete clarity, but I spent the most I had ever spent on two blocks and I have had at least two dozen. Then I had to source and purchase 400 to 3000 grit wet sanding paper, acrylic polish and a drill attachment foam polisher and then the man hours to get it looking great.
> 
> Just wondering if I was just u lucky or what?
> 
> Some images...
> 
> Before polish
> 
> Capture6.JPG 75k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Almost complete
> 
> blocks.JPG 279k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Installed
> 
> cards1.JPG 265k .JPG file


Actually, this is the usual ammount of toolmarks that we are happy with. The toolmarks are on the inside of the plexi, so they come in direct contact to the liquid. And right in the instance the area of plexi in question is completely covered with a liquid film, the plexi turns completely transparent again. This is effect is due to the light refraction between the plexi and the liquid and is taken into account by us when laying out the milling routines.
If we wanted the plexi parts to be perfectly transparent in dry state, we would have to taken the same steps as you did: extensive sanding and polishing, increasing the required worktime per unit by serious numbers, and thusly also increasing the final price for the item in question. Since water blocks will definitely have contact to liquid in their intended workspace (







), we decided to live with the subperfect look in dry state in favor of the more reasonable price.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey Jacob, I ordered a full kit of heatkiller 150 DDC on aquatuning, but it look like it's not available on a lot of retailer. Do you know when aquatuning will receive more stock?


Nevermind, just ordered on watercool instead.


----------



## turtletrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Ah, that is unfortunate for sure. Did you already get the shipping notification? If not, you could send me your order number with the exact replacement you wish for via PM, then I can see if the order is still inhouse and can be changed last minute.
> Actually, this is the usual ammount of toolmarks that we are happy with. The toolmarks are on the inside of the plexi, so they come in direct contact to the liquid. And right in the instance the area of plexi in question is completely covered with a liquid film, the plexi turns completely transparent again. This is effect is due to the light refraction between the plexi and the liquid and is taken into account by us when laying out the milling routines.
> If we wanted the plexi parts to be perfectly transparent in dry state, we would have to taken the same steps as you did: extensive sanding and polishing, increasing the required worktime per unit by serious numbers, and thusly also increasing the final price for the item in question. Since water blocks will definitely have contact to liquid in their intended workspace (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), we decided to live with the subperfect look in dry state in favor of the more reasonable price.


Hello Jacob!

I had already received a shipping notice and had tracked the package before I found out I could have swapped. Its not that big of a deal. Just would have been a few bux more in my pocket, but I know this hobby is not cheap









You guys really helped me out when Aquatuning absolutely botched my order, so I wont be using their sub par service anymore. I will just defer to you. In the future I will remember to ask before my direct order about any questions I have. Watercools willingness to help out really does shine in my opinion. Look forward to another piece of your sweet kit!

As far as the tool marks on the waterblock, I understand water would have cleared the haze in the plexi, but the machine marks would have stood out like a sore thumb. I totally understand there is a threshold where you cant have every block perfect, but mine were not good enough to be put in a Murderbox. That being said, I enjoyed learning how to polish plexi properly so that no matter what happens I can always get perfection.

I should also mention how awesome these blocks perform. I used stock thermal pads, but used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste and have never seen 40c even after days of folding at 2100mhz+. Gaming I usually never see above 36c and my clocks are solid as a rock on both cards. This all on a single 480 radiator with a 4.5Ghz 5930K and my Aquaero 5XT watercooled. So I am very impressed with these blocks!


----------



## littlestereo

Hey Jakob!

Wanted to say thanks for being so active in the community and keeping everyone up to date. I have a quick question for you:

When will the Heatkiller IV start shipping with AM4 bracket support or when will we be able to get the adapter bracket?

Thanks again!


----------



## khemist

What size are the metal washers that go under the springs on the Heatkiller IV cpu blocks?, managed to lose one.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *littlestereo*
> 
> Hey Jakob!
> 
> Wanted to say thanks for being so active in the community and keeping everyone up to date. I have a quick question for you:
> 
> When will the Heatkiller IV start shipping with AM4 bracket support or when will we be able to get the adapter bracket?
> 
> Thanks again!


It is my actual pleasure to interact with you guys! You make this all feel like I#m just continuing my hobby!

AM4 brackets will be available by end of february, just in time for the CPUs themselves. Future Heatkiller IV AMD editiion will be shipped with mounting material for both AM3 and AM4.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> What size are the metal washers that go under the springs on the Heatkiller IV cpu blocks?, managed to lose one.


Those aren't washers in the usual sense of the word, since they are milled on our own machinery park and have special measurements that you won't find anywhere else. We are happy to send you one for free. I'll PM you.


----------



## littlestereo

Sounds good, thanks!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Those aren't washers in the usual sense of the word, since they are milled on our own machinery park and have special measurements that you won't find anywhere else. We are happy to send you one for free. I'll PM you.


Done, thanks a lot!.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Got my FTW block in this weekend. First time shooting with my new staging setup too. Came out nicely.



Jakob you guys are incredible.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Got my FTW block in this weekend. First time shooting with my new staging setup too. Came out nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> Jakob you guys are incredible.


Nice shooting setup, produced an awesome picture! I recieved the parts to upgrade my private rig last monday, too:

 

Let's see who of us will have it installed quicker









In other news, everybody: this is your 12h warning! In only 12 hours, I will go live withe the awesome guys from mnpc, The Mod Zoo, Mod My Mods and Performance PCs. It'd be great to see many of you in the chat - the more viewers we get, the more convincing I'll be to explain to Mister BossMan how useful Marketing is and how useful an expanded budget would be







It will definitely be entertaining, and maybe, I can even give some small goodies away...?




See you all tonight!


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'm sure you'll be ahead lol. I plan to be using the install for a video opportunity with my new company for content before launch, so it'll much longer to do than a normal install.

I'll also be there for the hangout! But I think I'll be using my company moniker instead of my personal one


----------



## khemist

Jakob, i don't need a washer for the cpu block now, i found it, thanks anyway.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice shooting setup, produced an awesome picture! I recieved the parts to upgrade my private rig last monday, too:
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see who of us will have it installed quicker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news, everybody: this is your 12h warning! In only 12 hours, I will go live withe the awesome guys from mnpc, The Mod Zoo, Mod My Mods and Performance PCs. It'd be great to see many of you in the chat - the more viewers we get, the more convincing I'll be to explain to Mister BossMan how useful Marketing is and how useful an expanded budget would be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will definitely be entertaining, and maybe, I can even give some small goodies away...?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See you all tonight!


That beard


----------



## Mads1

Great hangout ........


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That beard


Ah, no way, did I miss an epic beard on stream?


----------



## paskowitz

Great hangout. Sorry I missed it live. Very informative all around.


----------



## LiquidHaus

the hangout earlier today was a good time for sure. it was good talking to those in the live chat. and yeah that beard was epic hahahaha.

- John


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

NO MOCKING LE BEARD!

That is a sensitive beard, he likes to roam free and do whatever he pleases. If he want to talk a walk to the side, who am I to stop him!

Thanks for showing up, people, I really appreciated to see some friendly nametags there


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> NO MOCKING LE BEARD!
> 
> That is a sensitive beard, he likes to roam free and do whatever he pleases. If he want to talk a walk to the side, who am I to stop him!
> 
> Thanks for showing up, people, I really appreciated to see some friendly nametags there


I didn't see it, but I can guarantee I'm not mocking any beard. My goatee likes to go for a wander every now and then - I'm just super curious about this epic beard, that's all.


----------



## Newtocooling

I've been meaning to show my love for Heatkiller in my current build for a while now. I've had this system up a running for around 8 months now.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I've been meaning to show my love for Heatkiller in my current build for a while now. I've had this system up a running for around 8 months now.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice (and clean) looking build!! I love the blue green colors....


----------



## emsj86

does anyone know if the Heatkiller Tube reservior DDC edition come with an o ring for the ddc pump?


----------



## Revan654

Got my second Shipment from WaterCool.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I've been meaning to show my love for Heatkiller in my current build for a while now. I've had this system up a running for around 8 months now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a very nice build! Thanks for sharing! Could you do another shot where we can see the entire interior, including the case? And would it be okay for you if I'd share some of those pics on our social media channels?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> does anyone know if the Heatkiller Tube reservior DDC edition come with an o ring for the ddc pump?


The Tube versions for the pumps do come with the correct O-ring for the respective pump. Please only use those rings. If you should ever lose one, please contact us and don't try to buy some replacements in your home depot, those are very specific sizes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my second Shipment from WaterCool.


Nice, thanks for sharing! WHat was in your first shipment? And please keep us updated how your rig looks when all is in place!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That is a very nice build! Thanks for sharing! Could you do another shot where we can see the entire interior, including the case? And would it be okay for you if I'd share some of those pics on our social media channels?
> The Tube versions for the pumps do come with the correct O-ring for the respective pump. Please only use those rings. If you should ever lose one, please contact us and don't try to buy some replacements in your home depot, those are very specific sizes.
> !


ok that's what I was worried about. I was sent. Heatkiller tube 200mm with the DDC mount connected to it. The reservoir was in the package,
so were 2 Allen keys, and he manual but no o ring. The item was sent as a gift to me so returning it to PPC is not a possibility. Do I need the o ring to mount my DDC pump or can I use the o ring I have now for my bits power DDC pump top. What can I do about getting the proper o ring. Been waiting to get this mounted and installed in the build picture below.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Guess what you're looking at. Hint: It will definitely ship on next Tuesday...


Does anyone else think this is a frownie face? You probably can't redesign the internals to make it a smilie face without destroying the flow ... can you?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Nice, thanks for sharing! WHat was in your first shipment? And please keep us updated how your rig looks when all is in place!


Will Do. It was a Waterblock & Backplate for my Titan X (Pascal).


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nice (and clean) looking build!! I love the blue green colors....


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That is a very nice build! Thanks for sharing! Could you do another shot where we can see the entire interior, including the case? And would it be okay for you if I'd share some of those pics on our social media channels?
> The Tube versions for the pumps do come with the correct O-ring for the respective pump. Please only use those rings. If you should ever lose one, please contact us and don't try to buy some replacements in your home depot, those are very specific sizes.
> Nice, thanks for sharing! WHat was in your first shipment? And please keep us updated how your rig looks when all is in place!


Thanks for the complement Jakob!! Sorry the pics are a little rough around the edges, I'm just learning a new Nikon D5300. Here is a pic of the whole setup I tried to clean it up a little with Lightroom. I have no problem with you sharing the photos on your social media. I just wish I had my 2 new 200mm Heatkiller Tube Reservoirs in the build but I got them after it was complete, and I'm too lazy to drill all new holes.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> ok that's what I was worried about. I was sent. Heatkiller tube 200mm with the DDC mount connected to it. The reservoir was in the package,
> so were 2 Allen keys, and he manual but no o ring. The item was sent as a gift to me so returning it to PPC is not a possibility. Do I need the o ring to mount my DDC pump or can I use the o ring I have now for my bits power DDC pump top. What can I do about getting the proper o ring. Been waiting to get this mounted and installed in the build picture below. [IMG*]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2963201/width/400/height/800[/IMG]


I'm sorry, there was a missunderstanding, I thought of the D5, not the DDC. I stand corrected: For the DDC, you simply reuse the O-Ring that came with the original DDC.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you for the fast reply. Good to know as I've been wanting this in my system for awhile now. Just waiting on the basic mounts.


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Guess what you're looking at. Hint: It will definitely ship on next Tuesday...
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else think this is a frownie face? You probably can't redesign the internals to make it a smilie face without destroying the flow ... can you?
Click to expand...

Boom!


Just have to use a BTX case.


----------



## Streetdragon

i have an "Watercool HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) ACETAL CLEAN" will there be an adapter for am4/ryzen?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> i have an "Watercool HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) ACETAL CLEAN" will there be an adapter for am4/ryzen?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> AM4 brackets will be available by end of february, just in time for the CPUs themselves. Future Heatkiller IV AMD editiion will be shipped with mounting material for both AM3 and AM4.


----------



## Joossens

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> AM4 brackets will be available by end of february, just in time for the CPUs themselves. Future Heatkiller IV AMD editiion will be shipped with mounting material for both AM3 and AM4.
> Those aren't washers in the usual sense of the word, since they are milled on our own machinery park and have special measurements that you won't find anywhere else. We are happy to send you one for free. I'll PM you.


Will there also be brackets for Heatkiller 3.0 for AM4? Any info on pricing?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joossens*
> 
> Will there also be brackets for Heatkiller 3.0 for AM4? Any info on pricing?


Yes, we will support socket AM4 with the Heatkiller 3.0 Priority has the HK IV, so it might take one or two weeks longer, but there will be an exchange mounting kit für the Heatkiller 3.


----------



## littlestereo

Jakob, what vendor would you recommend using to get a Heatkiller IV Nickel with an AM4 bracket by launch day in the US?


----------



## f1schu

Edit- sorry posted in wrong thread apologies


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey folks,
Today, I have three announcements for you guys:

HEATKILLER for EVGA FTW compatibility with FTW2 PCB layout:
Quote:


> We received a lot of questions about our new HEATKILLER IV for GTC 1070FTW and 1080FTW water block, concerning compatibility with the new FTW2 models. We are happy to announce that we release a Revision2 of that water block that will be fully compatible to BOTH the FTW and the FTW2 graphics cards!
> 
> There is one thing that will be changed, though: the new FTW2 card uses a 6pin LED connector. So, we will offer our HEATKILLER FTW block WITHOUT ANY preinstalled LED strip and reduce the price accordingly. You can then additionally order either the 4pin LED strip if you own the ACX FTW version or the 6pin LED strip if you own the iCX FTW2 version. The final product price for a water block and the respective LED strip combined will stay effectively unchanged.
> 
> The new versions of waterblocks will be marked with a "V2" on the packaging, so you can be sure you ordered the right block. All orders after February 24th will automatically receive the Revision2 waterblocks.
> 
> We hope that this solution will satisfy all our customers - please feel free to contact us if you have any more questions or suggestions!


Mounting brackets for HEATKILLER IV on AM4:
Quote:


> We will offer the mounting brackets to mount a HEATKILLER IV CPU block on AM4 from March 2nd on, so just in time with the release of the Ryzen CPUs themselves. Also, all AMD versions of the block ordered after that date will already come with full AM4 compatibility. We encourage all our resellers to place appropriate orders, so the resellers in North America should have the mounting brackets approximately one week later.


#TeamHeatkiller:
Quote:


> I started a kind of gallery of User builds. I'd like to encourage all of you to send in pics of your Heatkiller - Builds, so I can publish them through our instagram and facebook accounts.


----------



## l187l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey folks,
> Today, I have three announcements for you guys:
> 
> HEATKILLER for EVGA FTW compatibility with FTW2 PCB layout:
> Mounting brackets for HEATKILLER IV on AM4:
> #TeamHeatkiller:


Is there any way I can pre-order and get it shipped over night? I don't want to wait and the CPU's don't come with coolers =(


----------



## littlestereo

If you get a Crosshair VI board it supports AM3 coolers. I was gonna wait but just ordered the AM3 version instead.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l187l*
> 
> Is there any way I can pre-order and get it shipped over night? I don't want to wait and the CPU's don't come with coolers =(


Well, overnight shipping from Germany to the US is certainly possible. We don't usually offer it because the shipping companys charge BIG money for that kind of service. It's definitely a mid three-digit number. So, if you want to invest that kind of money, feel free to contact [email protected] and place that order.


----------



## RnRollie

I'll get the HK3 mounting kit when it becomes available ... and i dont mind a few days ground shipping from Germany to Luxembourg... although i AM willing to come pick it up myself if need be









EDIT:
This might have come up already, but i probably missed it if it did.

I've been looking at the HK Res D5, more specifically to the MO-RA mount... and i dont see how one can get this working if you have like me a freestanding MORA with fans on both sides AND the Traditional MORA FanGrills on both sides.
How do you solve the wiring issue? There isnt much room to begin with and it looks as if the Res mount will just make it more difficult.

The HK Res + MORA mount is on my shortlist, but only if i can work out the wiring issue


----------



## l187l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well, overnight shipping from Germany to the US is certainly possible. We don't usually offer it because the shipping companys charge BIG money for that kind of service. It's definitely a mid three-digit number. So, if you want to invest that kind of money, feel free to contact [email protected] and place that order.


oh yeah... wasn't thinking about you guys being in Europe... I guess I'll use the extra couple of days to convert to hard tubing =/


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*


So this is the new adapter? http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/cpu-zubehoer-ersatzteile/21553/alphacool-eisbaer/be-quiet-silent-loop-halterung-fuer-amd-zen-s.-am4
or will be there a other set with backplate etc?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> So this is the new adapter? http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/cpu-kuehler/cpu-zubehoer-ersatzteile/21553/alphacool-eisbaer/be-quiet-silent-loop-halterung-fuer-amd-zen-s.-am4
> or will be there a other set with backplate etc?


Nope. This is a product from the company "Alphacool" and fits the products "Eisbaer" by Alphacool and "BeQuiet silent loop" by BeQuiet.

We are WATERCOOL and our product's name is HEATKILLER. Your linked product has nothing to do at all with us


----------



## Streetdragon

woops my fail xD bought my cooler there, so i thought you are the same...... my fault sorry xD

When you got the adapter, do you reply a link here?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> EDIT:
> This might have come up already, but i probably missed it if it did.
> 
> I've been looking at the HK Res D5, more specifically to the MO-RA mount... and i dont see how one can get this working if you have like me a freestanding MORA with fans on both sides AND the Traditional MORA FanGrills on both sides.
> How do you solve the wiring issue? There isnt much room to begin with and it looks as if the Res mount will just make it more difficult.
> 
> The HK Res + MORA mount is on my shortlist, but only if i can work out the wiring issue


The mounting holes on which the Tube MO-RA mount are installed were originally designed with our own fan controller (to be finalized somewhere in the future) in mind. So, the original first batches of MO-RA fan grills were sold with this possible future scenario. Later on, we switched plans and went for the Tube res mount for those holes. So, there are a few fan grills out there that will NOT be compatible with the Tube mount. It pretty much depends how old your fan grills are. If you bought them in the last ~two years, they will definitely be compatible with the tube mount.

I don't understand your question about wiring, though. As it sounds, you solved the wiring as is. The additional wires from the pump would have to be routed outside of the fan grills, they are not supposed to be inside the grills.

Does this answer your question?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> EDIT:
> This might have come up already, but i probably missed it if it did.
> 
> I've been looking at the HK Res D5, more specifically to the MO-RA mount... and i dont see how one can get this working if you have like me a freestanding MORA with fans on both sides AND the Traditional MORA FanGrills on both sides.
> How do you solve the wiring issue? There isnt much room to begin with and it looks as if the Res mount will just make it more difficult.
> 
> The HK Res + MORA mount is on my shortlist, but only if i can work out the wiring issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting holes on which the Tube MO-RA mount are installed were originally designed with our own fan controller (to be finalized somewhere in the future) in mind. So, the original first batches of MO-RA fan grills were sold with this possible future scenario. Later on, we switched plans and went for the Tube res mount for those holes. So, there are a few fan grills out there that will NOT be compatible with the Tube mount. It pretty much depends how old your fan grills are. If you bought them in the last ~two years, they will definitely be compatible with the tube mount.
> 
> I don't understand your question about wiring, though. As it sounds, you solved the wiring as is. The additional wires from the pump would have to be routed outside of the fan grills, they are not supposed to be inside the grills.
> 
> Does this answer your question?
Click to expand...

Yes, i've solved the fan-wiring - long time ago









But....
The most space available on the MORA is on the port side, which allows (just) enough room to stick in a few fansplitters (see below) so you can route only one or two wires to the outside.

This however also means that the two rounded "cutouts" in the fan grilles are on the ports side... exactly where the resmount is supposed to go and it doesnt look as if there is enough room to route/hide the "external" wiring underneath the bracket.
Frankly, i am not even sure if you can actually fit the fan grilles without leaving a gap & using longer bolts if the res bracket is in place when looking at mine.

But hey, i'ld like to be proven wrong on this.









Thing is that i'm not going to order an frankly awesome looking res/pump combo just to find out that it all doesn't fit or that i have to go down the route of _"you need to buy the updated xyz"_ or something. While my MORA has a couple of years on it, it is still far from end of life or in need of replacement. My MORA dates from summer 2014 and the additional fan grilles date from summer 2015. (dont ask about the time gap)

Fansplitters like this fit (no soldering required) perfectly under the fangrilles.. on the port side


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Guys, we were extra quick here and finished the mounting brackets yesterday. So, all new orders for HEATKILLER IV for AMD water blocks from today on will be delivered with the new mounting bracket, offering full compatibility for AM4, but also all these older sockets: AMD 939, 940, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM2, FM2+ . If you already own a HEATKILLER IV, you can now order the Conversion Kit for full AM4 compatibility.

And to prove just how convinced we are of our products, we even made a Conversion Kit for one of the most iconic pieces of watercooling hardware: our nine years old HEATKILLER 3.0 can now also be ready for Ryzen! Now THIS is longstanding customer support, ladies and gentlemen!

You want Eyecandy? You get Eyecandy











Note: all orders from our own webstore will come with hte new brackets. Resellers might still have old brackets stocked. Please contact resellers directly about AM4-bracket availability.

@RnRollie: I saw your reply. I need to double check this before I can give you a definite answer. I'll get back to you.


----------



## Bart

That old block is so







, just like all the other HeatKiller products! Here's mine, Darkside Edition:



http://imgur.com/ccLkKG5





http://imgur.com/Nq6Q2gX


----------



## l187l

Just ordered the conversion kit =)

Going to go ahead and switch to hard tubing as well as soon as the bitspower fittings get here from china =/. I'll upload some pics when it's done. It doesn't look that great atm. It's my first build and it was kind of rushed so it's kind of a mess.


----------



## Streetdragon

Ordert the kit too. Maybe write at the item specification, that it converts intel to amd or so


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Yes, i've solved the fan-wiring - long time ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But....
> The most space available on the MORA is on the port side, which allows (just) enough room to stick in a few fansplitters (see below) so you can route only one or two wires to the outside.
> 
> This however also means that the two rounded "cutouts" in the fan grilles are on the ports side... exactly where the resmount is supposed to go and it doesn't look as if there is enough room to route/hide the "external" wiring underneath the bracket.
> Frankly, i am not even sure if you can actually fit the fan grilles without leaving a gap & using longer bolts if the res bracket is in place when looking at mine.
> 
> But hey, i'ld like to be proven wrong on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing is that i'm not going to order an frankly awesome looking res/pump combo just to find out that it all doesn't fit or that i have to go down the route of _"you need to buy the updated xyz"_ or something. While my MORA has a couple of years on it, it is still far from end of life or in need of replacement. My MORA dates from summer 2014 and the additional fan grilles date from summer 2015. (dont ask about the time gap)
> 
> Fansplitters like this fit (no soldering required) perfectly under the fangrilles.. on the port side


Virtually all fan grills have a cutout around the round cable pass that fits perfectly over the tube mount. See this picture:



We think that above and below the tube mount should still be enough space to fit your splitters.

I'm sorry but I don't fully understand what you refer to with "external wiring": Do you mean the pump cables? Yes, they are not hidden under anything. Or do you mean the two cables that come out of the splitters, leading to the PC? No, they are not hidden under the Pump bracket, either. You could, for example, have both cables meet in the middle behind the res, route them downwards, meet up the pump cables, and then route them all together to your PC.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> ---snip----
> 
> Virtually all fan grills have a cutout around the round cable pass that fits perfectly over the tube mount. See this picture:
> 
> 
> 
> We think that above and below the tube mount should still be enough space to fit your splitters.
> 
> I'm sorry but I don't fully understand what you refer to with "external wiring": Do you mean the pump cables? Yes, they are not hidden under anything. Or do you mean the two cables that come out of the splitters, leading to the PC? No, they are not hidden under the Pump bracket, either. You could, for example, have both cables meet in the middle behind the res, route them downwards, meet up the pump cables, and then route them all together to your PC.


Allright









I still think its gonna be a bit of tight fit, but i guess i'll find out









And yes by external wiring i do mean the cables coming from the splitters..
_(please, dont make me get out my 15 year old superfantastic 1.5 Megapixels camera)_









OK, now i need to think out exactly to set this up without it looking too much as some SteamPunk gone wrong








Still gonna hold off a while thou, for real life tests of Ryzen and 1080 TI

And then it depends on the existence of a 1080TI block as not everybody is gonna make a Reference card.

But if we're lucky the TI PCB will be the same as either the Titan or the 1080 PCB, so you dont have to design a whole new waterblock









You guys never considered a MORA with a modified port side giving the possibility to screw in a DDC or D5 directly on the top or bottom ports... a bit Aquacomputer style


----------



## itsZiz

Do we have any idea if the Heatkiller Titan X pascal GPU block will work on the new 1080ti?


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsZiz*
> 
> Do we have any idea if the Heatkiller Titan X pascal GPU block will work on the new 1080ti?


I can't speak for Watercool, but according to Canada's main man for water cooling, Daz:

"EK Water Blocks, is pleased to announce that the existing EK-FC Titan X Pascal series water blocks are compatible with the GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti, NVIDIA's new flagship gaming GPU."

So it looks like the 1080ti and Titan XP share the same PCB.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> But if we're lucky the TI PCB will be the same as either the Titan or the 1080 PCB, so you dont have to design a whole new waterblock


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsZiz*
> 
> Do we have any idea if the Heatkiller Titan X pascal GPU block will work on the new 1080ti?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I can't speak for Watercool, but according to Canada's main man for water cooling, Daz:
> 
> "EK Water Blocks, is pleased to announce that the existing EK-FC Titan X Pascal series water blocks are compatible with the GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti, NVIDIA's new flagship gaming GPU."
> 
> So it looks like the 1080ti and Titan XP share the same PCB.


Judging by all the pictures we saw up until now, the PCBs of the 1080Ti and the Titan XP look extremely similar. And we are aware that EKWB claims compatibility to their product. But then again, the EK design differs a little bit from ours, and EK produces with other manufacturing tolerances than we do, so the compatibility of their product does not automatically mean that our product will also be compatible. We have to wait till we could check the PCB out ourselves before we can put a definite answer to this question.

It all looks very promising, but at the current state, we cannot definitely confirm nor deny compatibility.


----------



## l187l

For anyone wondering about the AM4 bracket, I emailed PPC's and they won't have them for a while.



So it looks like we'll have to order directly from watercool's site.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

This might be the wrong place to ask but ill ask anyway, has anyone compared watercool and ek fc block performance for titan x pascal? I am using ek fc block with my 980ti atm but thinkin of moving to watercool once I buy the 1080ti since I think their block looks nicer and is also cheaper ek decided to milk it, I just dont want to loose any performance when going nuts on the 1080ti.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> This might be the wrong place to ask but ill ask anyway, has anyone compared watercool and ek fc block performance for titan x pascal? I am using ek fc block with my 980ti atm but thinkin of moving to watercool once I buy the 1080ti since I think their block looks nicer and is also cheaper ek decided to milk it, I just dont want to loose any performance when going nuts on the 1080ti.


I don't know any test in english. I'd be happy to have some, actually! If anyone knows one, please advise!
But I DO know one test in german. I suppose you won't understand the text, but I think the graphics speak for themselves and are understandable nevertheless: hardwaremax tested our HEATKILLER block versus EK, Aquacomputer and XSPC. And according to their test, the Heatkiller is slightly more restrictive, but delivers better temperatures than the EK block (and all the others, too). The same is true one generation before that, btw: their test for the 980Ti blocks yielded the exact same result.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Google translate is good enough to translate it, thanks for the link, I'll go check it out, even if it would perform equally to EK I would make the switch, same with the cpu block, heatkiller just kills it on the look.
Never really cared too much but these days watercooling is just as much for function as it is for form. Atleast for me and my P5 case.


----------



## Revan654

- Just put together my first Heatkiller GPU, I do have to say it was allot easier compared to other companies. Not to mention Watercool pre-cuts the thermal pads (Thermal Pads are higher quality to what I'm use to getting with waterblocks & heatsinks).
- GPU block is allot heavier to other GPU blocks I have worked with in the past. Very high quality.
- One thing that was odd is their was not any thermal paste supplied with my GPU waterblock. Not sure if I was suppose to get any or not.

Still not sure why we still get silver IO plates, Where allot of cases are black. I did some quick painting so it would match my case.

One Question, Is it possible to fit an LED into a GPU that doesn't have a window? I would like to it to glow blue in the exposed area of the GPU.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> - Just put together my first Heatkiller GPU, I do have to say it was allot easier compared to other companies. Not to mention Watercool pre-cuts the thermal pads (Thermal Pads are higher quality to what I'm use to getting with waterblocks & heatsinks).
> - GPU block is allot heavier to other GPU blocks I have worked with in the past. Very high quality.
> - One thing that was odd is their was not any thermal paste supplied with my GPU waterblock. Not sure if I was suppose to get any or not.
> 
> Still not sure why we still get silver IO plates, Where allot of cases are black. I did some quick painting so it would match my case.
> 
> One Question, Is it possible to fit an LED into a GPU that doesn't have a window? I would like to it to glow blue in the exposed area of the GPU.


Thanks for the pics!
- We like to hear that!
- That's the common reaction. People usually complain about our prices until they physically hold one of our products. Then they usually go "okay, now I get it"








- We don't supply any thermal paste. PC enthusiasts (and pretty much all people building a custom loop fall in this category) usually have their own brand on which they SWEAR. So, in our opinion, adding some thermal paste of OUR choosing would mean to sell the customer something he probably already has and doesn't need nor want.
- I fully agree on the silver IO plate! Great job painting it! I might follow your lead here for my private rig!
- Not out of the box. The Slot to fit the LED into is milled into the plexi part in the windowed versions. So, your version does not have that. You would have to mill something out of the Acetal yourself, and I seriously doubt that you would achieve any noticeable, let alone satisfying, effect.


----------



## gerrardo

I've been on the Heatkiller train since the GTX670 copper blocks, and couldn't be happier with them. I recently went to update some of my older watercooling hardware on my X99 system and went with the Heatkiller IV Pro Anthracite and the 1070 FTW full nickel block. Build is currently in progress while I wait for the last few pieces to ship (notice the lack of pump/reservoir?). Also ignore the exposed hard drive, I was playing around with locations and decided that both it and the older M2 SSD are too ugly to stay in this build and are being replaced. Will be doing rigid tubing and I have a plethora of chrome fittings to act as accents in all the black









Don't mind the slightly warped image, I got so caught up in the joys of mounting these blocks and how painless they are to install to slow down and snap a few quality photos.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Another curious question, why are waterblocks for old cards just as expensive as the new ones? Is it really better to throw all of the stock you have away, rather than selling the stock you have for lets say 30€ per block? For example used gtx 970 costs like 150€ but waterblocks start from 100€ for it, or can you reuse all the material on the blocks if you have too much old blocks in stock so you just recycle the materials, rather than selling em cheap?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Another curious question, why are waterblocks for old cards just as expensive as the new ones? Is it really better to throw all of the stock you have away, rather than selling the stock you have for lets say 30€ per block? For example used gtx 970 costs like 150€ but waterblocks start from 100€ for it, or can you reuse all the material on the blocks if you have too many old blocks in stock so you just recycle the materials, rather than selling em cheap?


We are one of the very rare manufacturers owning and using our own in-house machinery park. So, we do not hold big quantitiys of old water blocks in stock, but have only very small numbers, and can easily reproduce the rare quantities that these blocks sell. Producing the block still costs the same, it is the same block, so we need to sell it at the same price. We do have sales sometimes, but since we can manage our storage capacities with very little delay, we seldom have real overflow of unsold blocks.


----------



## Revan654

Two quick question about D5 pump top.

1. Do you sell any 140 mounting options so the pump can be mounted to a radiator?
2. If not do you know of any mounting options that will work with D5 top?


----------



## warpuck

For those that have heatkiller III this is the conversion kit for AM4. So recent watercool has not changed the picture for the new kit

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14085


----------



## warpuck

List of heatkillers that fit AM4 boards

http://mb.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_MB_Compatibility.pdf

Watercool-Jacob did a fine job of pointing me towards this info


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> For those that have heatkiller III this is the conversion kit for AM4. So recent watercool has not changed the picture for the new kit
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14085


This is correct. I already announced this product here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> And to prove just how convinced we are of our products, we even made a Conversion Kit for one of the most iconic pieces of watercooling hardware: our nine years old HEATKILLER 3.0 can now also be ready for Ryzen! Now THIS is longstanding customer support, ladies and gentlemen!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> List of heatkillers that fit AM4 boards
> 
> http://mb.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_MB_Compatibility.pdf
> 
> Watercool-Jacob did a fine job of pointing me towards this info


You can also find this list in my signature. The way you put it seems a little misleading, though: these are all customized Heatkiller sets for VRM and Chipset cooling. Of course, all our HEATKILL IV CPU blocks are compatible with all AM4 boards! It's also worth noting that we also offer universal VRM waterblocks, as well as a wide range of precut VRM water blocks in the most usual hole patterns.


----------



## Mad Monk

Good day all,

A question please.

Anybody know where I can find a template for the Mo-Ra3 Pro radiators? How much clearance is there under the fan grill or what is the limit on fan thickness?

I'd like to cut up some cardboard before cutting up a case. The dimensions show it will fit. Still trying to figure out how.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers,

Mad Monk


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

You can find a lot of technical drawings of our products in the download section in the "Draw" tab.

Concerning the grills: we offer different ones. The classic versions are all 30mm high, the "high version" is 35mm high.


----------



## Mad Monk

Watercool-Jakob,

Thank you!

Cheers,

Mad Monk


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Do you know when you can confirm if the TitanX Block is compatible with the 1080ti? I decided to go watercool this time and don't want to order before I'm sure it fits.


----------



## Ragin Asian

What size allen key do i need to unscrew the cold plate on the heat killer iv pro? I just got my AMD mounting kit but don't have the correct allen key.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragin Asian*
> 
> What size allen key do i need to unscrew the cold plate on the heat killer iv pro? I just got my AMD mounting kit but don't have the correct allen key.


I'm at work right now but I can check when I get home, but if you have the original packaging for the block I know the correct allen key was in there for me.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragin Asian*
> 
> What size allen key do i need to unscrew the cold plate on the heat killer iv pro? I just got my AMD mounting kit but don't have the correct allen key.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I'm at work right now but I can check when I get home, but if you have the original packaging for the block I know the correct allen key was in there for me.


Yes, the correct allen key is definitely part of the delivery scope of the water block itself. I can't look it up right now, I'm already in weekend mode, but I'm pretty sure that it should be either a 2 or a 2.5.


----------



## Ragin Asian

So the 2mm Allen key was slightly too big but I found a 1.5 mm lying around which fit. However I've run into a new problem. While trying to take the screws out the heads stripped so now I can't unscrew them. RIP $50 on brackets I can't use.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

There is still no info on the titanx block compatibility with the 1080ti?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragin Asian*
> 
> So the 2mm Allen key was slightly too big but I found a 1.5 mm lying around which fit. However I've run into a new problem. While trying to take the screws out the heads stripped so now I can't unscrew them. RIP $50 on brackets I can't use.


That sounds bad :// We double checked in the workshop, it's definitely a 2mm allen key. Sadly, both the screws and the tools have small tolerances within they can vary. It seems that you hit a screw set on the one edge of the tolerance with a tool from the other end







We're sorry to hear that you had problems there. We always want our customer to have the best possible experience with our products. Please send me a PM or email to [email protected] with your address and phone number, then we will send you a new replacement screw set for free.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> There is still no info on the titanx block compatibility with the 1080ti?


We received our 1080Ti today and are RIGHT NOW mounting the TitanXP block. Everything looks good so far. I'll post a definite YAY or NAY after we put it through out test bench. Approximately 5hours from now. Soon enough?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Oh yes sir, please do, incase of yes going to order today =) Thanks


----------



## Ragin Asian

Thanks for the offer but with my issue I wouldn't be able to use the replacement screw set either since I can't even remove them from the block.


----------



## gerrardo

If you are careful you can use a dremel to cut a slot in the screwhead and back it out that way.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

There are specific bits you can get for removal of stripped screws... There is also a semi-liquid "goop" you can get (sorry, can't recall the name of it) that's like a combination of a thick goo and coarse grit sand that works really well in such situations.


----------



## NetopyrMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> ....A special highlight of these blocks is the included illumination. If you grew fond of the stock cooler's RGB illumination, you can keep this feature when installing one of the acrylic versions. We included a RGB LED strip under the front cover. You simply plug it into the onboard LED port. Then, you can control the illumination through the EVGA PrecisionOC software package...


And how is it for 1080ti / Titan XP waterblock (looks same)? Is the RGB LED strip included too? Or can i buy it separatly? On the watercool shop are only single colors ...

Or is it able to use short strip from nzxt hue+?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragin Asian*
> 
> Thanks for the offer but with my issue I wouldn't be able to use the replacement screw set either since I can't even remove them from the block.


I'm sorry to hear that. Some of those tips above sounded like good advice. If you get the screws out, our offer stands!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Oh yes sir, please do, incase of yes going to order today =) Thanks


I can now officially confirm that our HEATKILLER IV or TITAN X (Pascal) is 100% compatible to the new Nvidia GTX 1080Ti. The same is true for the eBC backplate (back in stock this week).

Some Eye candy?







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NetopyrMan*
> 
> And how is it for 1080ti / Titan XP waterblock (looks same)? Is the RGB LED strip included too? Or can i buy it separatly? On the watercool shop are only single colors ...
> 
> Or is it able to use short strip from nzxt hue+?


The HEATKILLER® IV for TITAN X and GTX 1080Ti comes with a groove in which the corresponding LED strips (sold separately) can be installed like this:



We think that it should be possible to install third party RGB LED strips, but we cannot guarantee it. We don't offer RGB LED strips for this card because the card itself has no connection header for RGB lighting.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thank you!


----------



## VSG

While it is not the Heatkiller Titan X Pascal block, the block design is near identical to the GTX 1080 blocks, so perhaps this sneak peek from an upcoming review (of the EVGA block) will help put some perspective on where things are today:


----------



## NetopyrMan

Thanks Jakob


----------



## ruffhi

I just ordered the last Watercool HEATKILLER IV for GTX 1080 - ACETAL Ni (15578) that ModMyMods had in stock.

The way I read this doc (link), this block is compatible with a whole mess of GPUs (approx 53) ... 1060, 1070 & 1080s.

The only downside is I cannot find a back plate anywhere.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Watercool.de doesn't have one eithee?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Watercool.de doesn't have one eithee?


Sadly ... no.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Well they make thing inhouse, so if you order one they will make one for you, no?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> While it is not the Heatkiller Titan X Pascal block, the block design is near identical to the GTX 1080 blocks, so perhaps this sneak peek from an upcoming review (of the EVGA block) will help put some perspective on where things are today:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Got confused by the green highlighting first







Those are some good results, thanks for sharing!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just ordered the last Watercool HEATKILLER IV for GTX 1080 - ACETAL Ni (15578) that ModMyMods had in stock.
> 
> The way I read this doc (link), this block is compatible with a whole mess of GPUs (approx 53) ... 1060, 1070 & 1080s.
> 
> The only downside is I cannot find a back plate anywhere.


Yep, this is a very versatile block!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Watercool.de doesn't have one eithee?


Yes, those backplates are a problem right now. As you know we are one of the rare manufacturers that actually physically manufacture their own products in their own house. This is true with one exclusion: we do not do the platings ourselves. So, the contractor that does the plating for us had a very high workload, so our parts, especially the backplates, took some longer. We will get back a big badge of them soon. We expect to have it in shop on Friday. We apologize for the inconvenience...


----------



## VSG

Yeah those are from my upcoming review of the EVGA block on TPU. The Watercool block review will be on my website soon.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yes, those backplates are a problem right now. As you know we are one of the rare manufacturers that actually physically manufacture their own products in their own house. This is true with one exclusion: we do not do the platings ourselves. So, the contractor that does the plating for us had a very high workload, so our parts, especially the backplates, took some longer. We will get back a big badge of them soon. We expect to have it in shop on Friday. We apologize for the inconvenience...


No worries here. I haven't even got a GPU to slap the block on ... so I am not fazed about a delay in getting a back plate





















.


----------



## YVWM-47

Anybody know if there would be problem using the stock 1080ti FE backplate with the Heatkiller IV block. Thanks


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YVWM-47*
> 
> Anybody know if there would be problem using the stock 1080ti FE backplate with the Heatkiller IV block. Thanks


No, the original backplate is not compatible. The holes in the backplate are too small to use screws that would be strong enough to support the block.


----------



## eth3rton

Ordered these from PerformancePC's

Watercool HEATKILLER® IV for TITAN X (Pascal) - ACETAL Nickel


Watercool HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 980, 980 Ti and TITAN X

Are they not compatible?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eth3rton*
> 
> Ordered these from PerformancePC's
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER® IV for TITAN X (Pascal) - ACETAL Nickel
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 980, 980 Ti and TITAN X
> 
> Are they not compatible?


No, they are not. The backplate is for the GTX 9XX generation, for the GTX 10XX Generation, you need this one.

I suppose ou got confused by Nvidias naming scheme here: both premium cards of the Maxwell and the Pascal generation are called "TITAN X", although those are completely different pieces of hardware. We named all our products for the GTX10XX generation "TITAN X (Pascal)".


----------



## eth3rton

Thanks!

Can the block be used (temp) without the backplate? The only retailer I can find, PerformancePCs.com, won't have stock for a few weeks. Went to the Watercool Store and shipping is as much as the backplate... :|

Any coupon codes available?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eth3rton*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Can the block be used (temp) without the backplate? The only retailer I can find, PerformancePCs.com, won't have stock for a few weeks. Went to the Watercool Store and shipping is as much as the backplate... :|
> 
> Any coupon codes available?


RE backplate: Yes, the backplate is optional, not necessary.
Re availability: Please see my post from yesterday.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Do you guys answer your contact email at all ? Or is the wait time usually like a week ?


----------



## eth3rton

Really like the design of the block compared to the EK I had on my Titan X (Maxwell). Took a little engineering but I got the factory back-plate to work










__
https://flic.kr/p/SNoyyE


__
https://flic.kr/p/SNoyyE


__
https://flic.kr/p/Ssjfc5


__
https://flic.kr/p/Ssjfc5


----------



## outofmyheadyo

That sure looks nice!
So the only problem with the default backplate was, that the holes for the screws were too small ?


----------



## braindamage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eth3rton*
> 
> Really like the design of the block compared to the EK I had on my Titan X (Maxwell). Took a little engineering but I got the factory back-plate to work


Any idea if those screws are compatible with an EK backplate?


----------



## eth3rton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Any idea if those screws are compatible with an EK backplate?


I'm not sure, sorry. Sold the EK already.


----------



## eth3rton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> That sure looks nice!
> So the only problem with the default backplate was, that the holes for the screws were too small ?


Thanks! Yep, I used a 1/8th drill bit to bore them out ever so slightly. Doesn't take much at all.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Do you guys answer your contact email at all ? Or is the wait time usually like a week ?


This week was CRAZY busy. We apologize if we missed your mail. You should get an answer on Monday.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eth3rton*
> 
> Really like the design of the block compared to the EK I had on my Titan X (Maxwell). Took a little engineering but I got the factory back-plate to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/SNoyyE
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/SNoyyE
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/Ssjfc5
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/Ssjfc5


Wow, that looks awesome! Thanks for sharing! While I can't recommend this procedure for everyone for obvious reasons, I still like it!


----------



## ruffhi

My EVGA 1060 FTW block turned up. No EVGA back plate with this version ... so I have to either a) beg borrow or steal an unwanted EVGA backplate (hint hint!) or b) wait for the official version.

So ... the block is black, black on the front, black on the back, black on the inside too. That is ok as my build is a Black / White with Liquorice Allsorts color highlights in it. Time to Liquorice Allsorts colorize the block ...


----------



## Killa Cam

hey jakob, will you guys be making a evga 1080 ti ftw waterblock?


----------



## khemist

I'm pretty sure they will, i'm debating if i should get a block for the 1080ti FE, it's so loud.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> hey jakob, will you guys be making a evga 1080 ti ftw waterblock?


We are undecided as of yet. We want to make a water block for at least one 1080Ti custom PCB, but are undecided for which one. EVGA FTW, ASUS Strix, Gigabyte Aorus or MSI Gaming? Which one would you guys prefer?


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are undecided as of yet. We want to make a water block for at least one 1080Ti custom PCB, but are undecided for which one. EVGA FTW, ASUS Strix, Gigabyte Aorus or MSI Gaming? Which one would you guys prefer?


id definitely prefer u guys make it for the evga ftw 1080ti but can understand if u want to try something else. i think the msi gaming would be the safest choice since its a consistent seller which makes it very popular.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are undecided as of yet. We want to make a water block for at least one 1080Ti custom PCB, but are undecided for which one. EVGA FTW, ASUS Strix, Gigabyte Aorus or MSI Gaming? Which one would you guys prefer?


Tough call. If EVGA uses the FTW3 pcb for the hybrid PCB then you are getting two SKUs for the price of one. EVGA has a very friendly water cooling warranty so I'd assume they are the most popular.


----------



## atomicus

I've always preferred to use EVGA cards for watercooling due to their very friendly and easy warranty. I find their cards hold good second hand value as a result. So for block choice EVGA would be my suggestion.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'd have to say the EVGA FTW3 card as well, Jakob.

Other than Asus, EVGA probably hustles more cards than anyone else, so your potential market is much greater than going with anyone else.

Also think about the advances that EVGA has made with their FTW3 pcb, primarily with their ICX revisions since their huge debacle with the original FTW heat issues. Problems like that honestly create the biggest innovations, and I really appreciate the care EVGA has done to pursue a better all around product now.

And like others have said, EVGA does have a pretty awesome warranty for aftermarket cooling.

I'm sure there are those that might say "try something new!" But because of all the work and money that would go into developing a new block, I'd say the EVGA FTW3 is the safest bet.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Given it's popularity, I'd day evga FTW3 as well.... Doubly so if they stuck with 3x DisplayPort and 1x HDMI ports (downsides of building one's rig to do gsync surround as well as VR, you need the DisplayPort connectors)


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> This week was CRAZY busy. We apologize if we missed your mail. You should get an answer on Monday.


It's a week now since i placed the order, the waterblock should of arrived by now. But in reality it has not even been shipped yet, and as I mailed the 3 different available emails not a single answer, who do I talk to to cancel the order?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> It's a week now since i placed the order, the waterblock should of arrived by now. But in reality it has not even been shipped yet, and as I mailed the 3 different available emails not a single answer, who do I talk to to cancel the order?


Where are you located? I would try and have some patience, man. Watercool is a smaller company than most. Yeah you may have to deal with a longer time frame, but you get top of the line stuff.

I waited for my 1080 FTW block for like 4 months from them. It wasn't even in production when I pre-ordered it, but it was worth the wait. I'd say give them a chance.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

4 months ? When i ordered it said it is in stock, so I would expect same day or next day shipping, I am not saying I want it the same day or the next, but atleast it should leave their warehouse same/next day.


----------



## motoray

For those who care, it is realllly easy to modify a hk3.0 from am3 mounts to am4. And it works quite well.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> It's a week now since i placed the order, the waterblock should of arrived by now. But in reality it has not even been shipped yet, and as I mailed the 3 different available emails not a single answer, who do I talk to to cancel the order?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> 4 months ? When i ordered it said it is in stock, so I would expect same day or next day shipping, I am not saying I want it the same day or the next, but atleast it should leave their warehouse same/next day.


I have to apologize again. We are currently absolutely flooded with both orders and mails. We are working as hard as possible to get through both piles and try to get all orders to their respective recipients. If you are having questions about products, please feel free to contact me. If you only wish to ask about your order status, there currently is only one answer: we are working on it







And the less time we spend answering the same question "when will it be shipped", the faster we can actually ship it








If you still wish to cancel your order, please also feel free to PM me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> For those who care, it is realllly easy to modify a hk3.0 from am3 mounts to am4. And it works quite well.


Thanks for sharing! I have a weak spot for DIY - Mods


----------



## Tricyclethief

Anyone know if there are any other charges or fees to deliver to the US from watercool.de site and are there any coupon codes floating around?

Thanks


----------



## gerrardo

Don't know of any coupons, but it's 29.95 euros to FedEx the order from GER to USA. Comes pretty quick but since it's basically flat rate buy all that you need in one go.


----------



## Tricyclethief

Is there any import/duty fees etc added on when coming to US? thats what i was most worried about


----------



## gerrardo

Nope! They remove VAT when you enter a US address.


----------



## Tricyclethief

Awesome thanks! placed my order, now the waiting game begins lol


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tricyclethief*
> 
> Awesome thanks! placed my order, now the waiting game begins lol


They ship quick if it's in stock. I ordered on a Thursday I think and it came the following Wednesday or Thursday in CA, if you are on the east coast it may be shorter. Either way not bad at all for a 5k mile journey.


----------



## braindamage

Does watercool.de provide a tracking number? My order has been listed as "closed" for a couple days now, but I haven't received a tracking number anywhere.


----------



## gerrardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Does watercool.de provide a tracking number? My order has been listed as "closed" for a couple days now, but I haven't received a tracking number anywhere.


I had a tracking number as soon as it was marked "shipped". I am not sure what "closed" means, I will have to defer to the Watercool reps for that.


----------



## Tricyclethief

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*


Can you confirm http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/78021 works for titan X pascal/1080 ti block? its listed under titan X tab but doesn't say for sure


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Does watercool.de provide a tracking number? My order has been listed as "closed" for a couple days now, but I haven't received a tracking number anywhere.


I got a FedEx tracking notification from them once my order was processed. It said delivery was estimated today. Unfortunately, as of today, tracking still shows only "label created" and taking to FedEx, they say they don't see it shipped.


----------



## YVWM-47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Does watercool.de provide a tracking number? My order has been listed as "closed" for a couple days now, but I haven't received a tracking number anywhere.


Same situation here i'm guessing it hasn't shipped yet, i have 1080ti blocks on order from last week that still haven't shipped. They for sure send tracking though because i ordered something from them about three weeks ago and it was shipped in a couple days with the tracking number.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tricyclethief*
> 
> Anyone know if there are any other charges or fees to deliver to the US from watercool.de site and are there any coupon codes floating around?
> 
> Thanks


No, currently there are no coupon codes active.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gerrardo*
> 
> Don't know of any coupons, but it's 29.95 euros to FedEx the order from GER to USA. Comes pretty quick but since it's basically flat rate buy all that you need in one go.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tricyclethief*
> 
> Can you confirm http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/78021 works for titan X pascal/1080 ti block? its listed under titan X tab but doesn't say for sure


Yes, this is compatible to the TITAN X Pascal Heatkiller blocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Does watercool.de provide a tracking number? My order has been listed as "closed" for a couple days now, but I haven't received a tracking number anywhere.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I got a FedEx tracking notification from them once my order was processed. It said delivery was estimated today. Unfortunately, as of today, tracking still shows only "label created" and taking to FedEx, they say they don't see it shipped.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YVWM-47*
> 
> Same situation here i'm guessing it hasn't shipped yet, i have 1080ti blocks on order from last week that still haven't shipped. They for sure send tracking though because i ordered something from them about three weeks ago and it was shipped in a couple days with the tracking number.


Hey guys,
"closed" means that you can't make any more changes to the orders since they have been transferred from the shop system to the shipping department. We deal with the orders in the order of receipt. You will automatically receive tracking infos when your order is shipped. Depending on the shipping company, it can take up to 24 hours from the order leaving our shop till the online tracking infos are updated.

And as I said yesterday, we are currently absolutely overwhelmed by the sheer amount of orders. We are very happy and grateful that you guys love our products so much and are working really hard to get all your desired items to you as fast as possible. And although we already hired additional staff for the assembly and packaging department, we are currently still not up to speed of new orders flying in. So please have a little patience with us. Everybody WILL get their orders. But it might take a little longer than usual.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> "closed" means that you can't make any more changes to the orders since they have been transferred from the shop system to the shipping department. We deal with the orders in the order of receipt. You will automatically receive tracking infos when your order is shipped. Depending on the shipping company, it can take up to 24 hours from the order leaving our shop till the online tracking infos are updated.
> 
> And as I said yesterday, we are currently absolutely overwhelmed by the sheer amount of orders. We are very happy and grateful that you guys love our products so much and are working really hard to get all your desired items to you as fast as possible. And although we already hired additional staff for the assembly and packaging department, we are currently still not up to speed of new orders flying in. So please have a little patience with us. Everybody WILL get their orders. But it might take a little longer than usual.


No worries Jakob. Thanks for the response!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Does watercool.de provide a tracking number? My order has been listed as "closed" for a couple days now, but I haven't received a tracking number anywhere.


Yes, they do. If you have an Fed-Ex account, the second a shipment is created for your address Fed-Ex E-Mails you. If you want to stay up to date with your order might want to consider creating an Fed-Ex account.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No, currently there are no coupon codes active.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, this is compatible to the TITAN X Pascal Heatkiller blocks.
> 
> Hey guys,
> "closed" means that you can't make any more changes to the orders since they have been transferred from the shop system to the shipping department. We deal with the orders in the order of receipt. You will automatically receive tracking infos when your order is shipped. Depending on the shipping company, it can take up to 24 hours from the order leaving our shop till the online tracking infos are updated.
> 
> And as I said yesterday, we are currently absolutely overwhelmed by the sheer amount of orders. We are very happy and grateful that you guys love our products so much and are working really hard to get all your desired items to you as fast as possible. And although we already hired additional staff for the assembly and packaging department, we are currently still not up to speed of new orders flying in. So please have a little patience with us. Everybody WILL get their orders. But it might take a little longer than usual.


Happy to hear that Watercool products are so well received in the comunity, they certainly deserve it. Switched to Heatkiller IV and Tube for my new Phanteks build and love the Quality.

Greetings from northern Germany.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Happy to hear that Watercool products are so well received in the comunity, they certainly deserve it. Switched to Heatkiller IV and Tube for my new Phanteks build and love the Quality.
> 
> Greetings from northern Germany.


They are absolutely fantastic fantastic products. Had my 3.0 since it came out years ago. Still looks and works amazing. Would not hesitate to suggest to anyone.


----------



## Wally West

Hey, any plan in offering your product in white? (Heatkiller 150 DDC or Heatkiller IV Pro). If you need a beta tester, I'm in


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yes, they do. If you have an Fed-Ex account, the second a shipment is created for your address Fed-Ex E-Mails you. If you want to stay up to date with your order might want to consider creating an Fed-Ex account.


Hu! Didn't even know about that!
But even if you don't have a FedEx account, you will automatically get tracking information. It usually updates with 2-6 hours delay, but you can watch it without an account.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Happy to hear that Watercool products are so well received in the comunity, they certainly deserve it. Switched to Heatkiller IV and Tube for my new Phanteks build and love the Quality.
> 
> Greetings from northern Germany.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> They are absolutely fantastic fantastic products. Had my 3.0 since it came out years ago. Still looks and works amazing. Would not hesitate to suggest to anyone.


Thanks for your longstanding support, you guys!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, any plan in offering your product in white? (Heatkiller 150 DDC or Heatkiller IV Pro). If you need a beta tester, I'm in


No plans right now, I'm sorry


----------



## BucketInABucket

I ordered a Heatkiller Tube 150 D5 with 120mm fan mounting to go with an Alphacool VPP755 and a GTX 1080Ti block and backplate. So excited for them to finally arrive!


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No plans right now, I'm sorry


All right, plasti-dip it is


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

You could also contact our friends at ModMyMods, they did a pretty awesome whitemod of a HEATKILLER IV for 1080: https://www.facebook.com/ModMyMods/photos/a.745360255628952.1073741848.427593777405603/745363232295321/?type=3&theater


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You could also contact our friends at ModMyMods, they did a pretty awesome whitemod of a HEATKILLER IV for 1080: https://www.facebook.com/ModMyMods/photos/a.745360255628952.1073741848.427593777405603/745363232295321/?type=3&theater


great idea!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hu! Didn't even know about that!
> But even if you don't have a FedEx account, you will automatically get tracking information. It usually updates with 2-6 hours delay, but you can watch it without an account.
> 
> Thanks for your longstanding support, you guys!
> No plans right now, I'm sorry


It's a nice little feature, The second the shipment is created you get an E-Mail. UPS does the same(I don't think you use UPS for shipping). Just wish shipping wasn't so expensive, That all Fed-Ex doing.

Well worth the price to pay to get WaterCooling HeatKiller Products. Your reservoirs are amazing(and WaterBlocks). I had another companies Res with the cheap nylon & plastic tube. I will never touch that type of res ever again. I really love that you used Glass.

It's very minor I would have liked to have the stainless steal plate at the bottom of the res come in different colors. Like Oxide black, Like I said it's very minor & I doubt I will notice it once I fill the res up.

Keep up the amazing work.


----------



## paskowitz

Metal g1/4 threads was a big reason I got my HK IV pro. My previous blocks all had the threads wear out. The mounting system is another huge plus. You know when you go all the way and it doesn't let you go any further. Another issue I've had with other blocks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Just a heads up:
Quote:


> Dear Customers,
> regard this a follow-up on our previous post. Let me first announce that all orders that we received up until today will ship within this week! From today on, we will we back on track, so your order will ship 1-2 days after placing the order.
> 
> Again, we are very grateful to all of our great customers for making March 2017 by far the best-selling month in the history of WATERCOOL.
> 
> We are looking forward to the hundreds of new #TeamHeatkiller builds that will soon be out there! Show us what you did with all the #Heatkiller glory!


----------



## khemist

Very good!, i've just ordered my 1080ti block and backplate minutes ago.

I went with the Copper since the Nickel was out of stock.


----------



## Bart

Awesome stuff Jakob! Make sure you get AMD Heatkiller blocks for the new AM4 platform to Daz in Canada. You have lots of fans there who buy from him.


----------



## ruffhi

And shipments to resellers such as PPCs and / or ModMyMods?


----------



## khemist

@ Watercool-Jakob - Would it be possible for me to change my order before it is shipped?, i placed an order yesterday for the 1080ti/Titan block in Copper since the Nickel was out of stock yesterday but now it is in stock.

I've made a post on the watercool.de forums also, the order no. is 6069, thanks.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Would it also be possible to change out the 120mm fan mount for the 140mm fan mount? I've sent in a ticket too but not sure if it's gotten through or not.


----------



## khemist

I contacted [email protected] and paid the difference on my order.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Up until your order status changes to "closed", you can still issue changes. Please contact [email protected] to do so.


----------



## khemist

Mine was showing as closed when i paid the extra to change my order, i was told it would be changed so i hope it's sorted.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Mine was showing as closed when i paid the extra to change my order, i was told it would be changed so i hope it's sorted.


Yes, your change is sorted.


----------



## khemist

Very good, thanks!, i went for a matching Acrylic CPU block also although there is nothing wrong with my Anthracite one, couldn't resist.


----------



## Revan654

quick question: What thread size, Length & washer size on the GPU terminal block? I kind of lost mine on the left side. I need to find a replacement. Just not sure what size & length I need to buy.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Where is the best place to find a great (Watercool) GPU waterblock for an EVGA GTX 1070 SC for purchase in the US?

Also do the 1070 waterblocks have the option of a water cooled back plate?


----------



## Wally West

Look at that sexy reservoir


----------



## khemist

Can someone tell me if order 6069 has been despatched yet?, thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> quick question: What thread size, Length & washer size on the GPU terminal block? I kind of lost mine on the left side. I need to find a replacement. Just not sure what size & length I need to buy.


Screw: M3x20 Din 912 A2
Washer: M3 (3,2x6x0,5 DIN433 VZ)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Where is the best place to find a great (Watercool) GPU waterblock for an EVGA GTX 1070 SC for purchase in the US?
> 
> Also do the 1070 waterblocks have the option of a water cooled back plate?


The best place to buy our products in the US is currently Performance PCs. ModMyMods are currently negotiating conditions with us, so expect them to become an official reseller soon.

The backplates are not actively cooled (yet).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Look at that sexy reservoir


Nice work, mate! How exactly did you do it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Can someone tell me if order 6069 has been despatched yet?, thanks.


Has not yet dispatched. Will be shipped in the next three days.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Hi there, has order 5951 been dispatched yet? Thanks!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Has not yet dispatched. Will be shipped in the next three days.


Ah, i was hoping to have it by then, oh well.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Nice work, mate! How exactly did you do it?


Plastidip haha.

Build is almost done


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BucketInABucket*
> 
> Hi there, has order 5951 been dispatched yet? Thanks!


Not yet. We're working our way there







As I said previously, you will receive an automated email with tracking info once it is shipped.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Ah, i was hoping to have it by then, oh well.


We're sorry, but that's the fastest we can do. As I said, there were crazy many orders. Especially the backplates sold faster than we could produce new ones...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Plastidip haha.
> 
> Build is almost done


Obviously I don't really dig your choice of waterblocks







, but this is a slick looking build! Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Obviously I don't really dig your choice of waterblocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but this is a slick looking build! Thanks for sharing!


Too bad you don't have white acetal haha.

When I'll buy Vega. be certains I'll buy an Heatkiller waterblock









For the CPU waterblock, if you can release a version in white. I'll gladly switch


----------



## 0ldChicken

So i cannot help but notice that there is no 1080Ti black-acrylic blocks with a copper base in stores? Is that correct? If so is there anyway to go about getting one? I prefer to stay away from nickel but i really want that sexy black top. (Edit:maybe buy a copper base block and a black acrylic nickel block and swap parts?)

If I'm not special enough I'll be buying one anyways and I'll deal with the nickel


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So i cannot help but notice that there is no 1080Ti black-acrylic blocks with a copper base in stores? Is that correct? If so is there anyway to go about getting one? I prefer to stay away from nickel but i really want that sexy black top. (Edit:maybe buy a copper base block and a black acrylic nickel block and swap parts?)
> 
> If I'm not special enough I'll be buying one anyways and I'll deal with the nickel


Generally speaking, we are happy to go for custom ideas. This one I'm hearing the second time in ~2 weeks, although we never heard it before. Curious if we are seeing the rise of a new trend here...

So, if I'm catching you right, you want this block's cooling plate with this block's top, right?

- Please order a Ni-Bl waterblock from us
- During the checkout procedure, please write a comment that you wish for a copper baseplate instead of a nickelplated one and refer to this conversation
- If you're paying with PayPal, please just pay the full amount. We will refund you 7€ when the item is shipped (this sounds complicated, but is necessary because of the way our shop-software interacts with PayPal). If you're paying by transfer, simply transfer the amount minus 7€.


----------



## fast_fate

Black and Copper FTFW









I probably would have chosen Cooper and Black CPU block if it were an option when I bought my HKIV for Salive8
BUT
the Nickel insert goes well with my fitting selection and the gorgeous SS GPU back-plates, so happy with what I did choose


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Generally speaking, we are happy to go for custom ideas. This one I'm hearing the second time in ~2 weeks, although we never heard it before. Curious if we are seeing the rise of a new trend here...
> 
> So, if I'm catching you right, you want this block's cooling plate with this block's top, right?
> 
> - Please order a Ni-Bl waterblock from us
> - During the checkout procedure, please write a comment that you wish for a copper baseplate instead of a nickelplated one and refer to this conversation
> - If you're paying with PayPal, please just pay the full amount. We will refund you 7€ when the item is shipped (this sounds complicated, but is necessary because of the way our shop-software interacts with PayPal). If you're paying by transfer, simply transfer the amount minus 7€.


That is exactly what I am looking for, thanks a lot for facilitating that! Now I need to do a little thinking and decide if I'll get anything else along with it


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pmHVO5S4j

https://imageshack.com/i/pnSuoQUsj

Already got this block in Anthracite but i figured i would go with this one to match the Nickel 1080ti block i'm waiting on.


----------



## 0ldChicken

One more question @Watercool-Jakob. Any chance you will be manufacturing a dedicated 1080 Ti block that does not have the cut out for for the titan's dvi port? Unnecessarily seeing that corner of the pcb MIGHT drive me crazy. I feel it would really make a big difference in the assembled card aesthetic

Edit: quoted eth3rton's post as example of the block installed on card
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eth3rton*
> 
> Really like the design of the block compared to the EK I had on my Titan X (Maxwell). Took a little engineering but I got the factory back-plate to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/SNoyyE
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/SNoyyE


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Black and Copper FTFW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I probably would have chosen Cooper and Black CPU block if it were an option when I bought my HKIV for Salive8
> BUT
> the Nickel insert goes well with my fitting selection and the gorgeous SS GPU back-plates, so happy with what I did choose


This looks like a gorgeous build! Is it already completed? Do you have any more shots of it? I'd LOVE to share this on our Facebook and instagram!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> One more question @Watercool-Jakob. Any chance you will be manufacturing a dedicated 1080 Ti block that does not have the cut out for for the titan's dvi port? Unnecessarily seeing that corner of the pcb MIGHT drive me crazy. I feel it would really make a big difference in the assembled card aesthetic
> 
> Edit: quoted eth3rton's post as example of the block installed on card


We heard that suggestion quite often. We will offer a dedicated front cover customfit for the 1080Ti PCB that covers the whole PCB.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We heard that suggestion quite often. We will offer a dedicated front cover customfit for the 1080Ti PCB that covers the whole PCB.


very nice. Will that be available as an entire block or an accessory to modify these? Also, any clues as to an eta? I can wait as long as necessary (shipping to the US so a single order would be ideal)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> This looks like a gorgeous build! Is it already completed? Do you have any more shots of it? I'd LOVE to share this on our Facebook and instagram!


Hi Jakob,

Thank You and Yes, Salive8's marathon build is finally complete and was logged here on OCN
*This post* has the final photos and a *short video is here*
Feel free to use any photos from the build log in Watercool social media

















f_f


----------



## Kendragon

Well guys,I finally made the move to ekwebs supremacy mx. Poor old hk3 just didn't have room for 2 compression fittings on block. And the ek was way cheaper than the hk4. I will say the temps aren't much better for the hk3 being such an old block. It has served me well.


----------



## equilni

My Heatkiller IV just came in and I can't wait to get it installed... just have to get extra fittings and possibly the backplate as well.


----------



## Wally West

The res is amazing! love it


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> very nice. Will that be available as an entire block or an accessory to modify these? Also, any clues as to an eta? I can wait as long as necessary (shipping to the US so a single order would be ideal)


We currently haven't finally decided any of those open questions







We will (hopefully...) be back to normal shipping operations beginning of next week, and will take a small break over easter to decide these and a couple more things. (Did anybody say 1080Ti custom PCBs...?)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kendragon*
> 
> Well guys,I finally made the move to ekwebs supremacy mx. Poor old hk3 just didn't have room for 2 compression fittings on block. And the ek was way cheaper than the hk4. I will say the temps aren't much better for the hk3 being such an old block. It has served me well.


Well, that's sad to hear! Maybe you will switch back sometime, we are always here for you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> The res is amazing! love it


Nice video! I like the effect when the first droplets of dye reach the next lenght of tubing







Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Kendragon

Hey, lobed my hk3, just couldn't spring the extra for the hk4. Does it have a larger spread between inlet and outlet for compression fittings?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kendragon*
> 
> Hey, lobed my hk3, just couldn't spring the extra for the hk4. Does it have a larger spread between inlet and outlet for compression fittings?


It certainly does! There is 25mm of spacing between the two ports, so fittings up to 13/19 ( 1/2 by 3/4) do fit onto this block.

(note: there are some extra thick lines of bitspower 1/2 by 3/4 compression fittings that actually do not fit!)


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We currently haven't finally decided any of those open questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will (hopefully...) be back to normal shipping operations beginning of next week, and will take a small break over easter to decide these and a couple more things. (Did anybody say 1080Ti custom PCBs...?)


ok, I'll adjust my eyes/ears to the FE cooler for now and see what comes around. Thanks a lot for your help! I see now why people say such good things about your service.

I may end up switching to an AIB if the options are looking better at that time. Definitely looking to put a heatkiller on something though. The current block style really took my eye the first time i saw it and now i gotta have one


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool backplates are out of stock on performance PCS. So I am looking for a shop that does custom backplates. If possible I am thinking of the batman symbol in UV blue. Does anyone know of a shop capable of that or some kind of custom backplates for a 1070?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Watercool backplates are out of stock on performance PCS. So I am looking for a shop that does custom backplates. If possible I am thinking of the batman symbol in UV blue. Does anyone know of a shop capable of that or some kind of custom backplates for a 1070?


Coldzero.eu and vtech


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Coldzero.eu and vtech


Thanks, I'll check them out, but are they US based?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks, I'll check them out, but are they US based?


I think vtech is, The Other one is in the UK.


----------



## ruffhi

careful with vtech ... that is a phone company. You need v1tech. Here is a link to their blank backplate page.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> careful with vtech ... that is a phone company. You need v1tech. Here is a link to their blank backplate page.


LOL yeah and they used to make crappy phones... not sure about nowadays.

I found that content creation page before but I had forgotten about it. So thanks for reminding me to send them a message!


----------



## Freakydude

Heatkiller IV EKWB XE360 and an alphacool XT45 rad driven by a DDC Laing 3.25 pump, at 5.1 ghz I get a nice cool 38 deg.


----------



## BucketInABucket

It's beautiful!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakydude*
> 
> Heatkiller IV EKWB XE360 and an alphacool XT45 rad driven by a DDC Laing 3.25 pump, at 5.1 ghz I get a nice cool 38 deg.


38c full load? prove it.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 38c full load? prove it.


Aye, though if it's water temp it makes sense!


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Aye, though if it's water temp it makes sense!


Seems a bit toasty for water temp imo.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Seems a bit toasty for water temp imo.


That really depends on ambient temp and how fast the fast the fans are running. Anyway, the point was more that a 360 will never keep an overclocked processor at 38c when fully loaded.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BucketInABucket*
> 
> 
> It's beautiful!


Thanks for sharing! Don't forget to also post pictures of the completed rig, please!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakydude*
> 
> Heatkiller IV EKWB XE360 and an alphacool XT45 rad driven by a DDC Laing 3.25 pump, at 5.1 ghz I get a nice cool 38 deg.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 38c full load? prove it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Seems a bit toasty for water temp imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> That really depends on ambient temp and how fast the fast the fans are running. Anyway, the point was more that a 360 will never keep an overclocked processor at 38c when fully loaded.


I'm not exactly sure, either, but the way I get it, he's using an EK360 rad PLUS an alphacool xt45 (probably 360 too?). That would yield 6 fans just for the CPU. Although this could be considered slight overkill, It would explain those temps







But let's just stay friendly and wait for his explanation, shall we?


----------



## BoredErica

Hi,

Considering a Heatkiller block for 1080ti EVGA SC Black. EK states their Titan X block works just fine with SC Black Edition, but not SC 2. The list (http://gpu.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_GPU_Compatibility.pdf) did not mention black edition.


----------



## Nameless101

True, didn't notice it's two rads.







Anyway, I was absolutely not trying to sound unfriendly, just voicing my doubts!


----------



## LiquidHaus

lol I wasn't trying to be unfriendly. I just seriously doubt that those temps are possible.

I have a SR1 560mm, 480mm Monsta, SR1 360mm, SR1 240mm, and my 4930k at 4.52ghz reaches 49-51c under full load. granted it's a hotter proc, but 12c below what I'm at with the heat dissipation that I have, it's just hard to me to fathom those temps under full load.

Edit: old pic since the gpu is now blocked but you get the idea. I have plenty of heat dissipation and I still couldn't pull off the temps he's saying he's getting.


----------



## emsj86

Hopefully I can get some help. Pretty mad right now as my pump just fried from looks to be small water droplets upon start up. Using the Heatkiller tube 200mm DDC that was gifted to me from Ibruce (he sent it new from ppcs so it wasn't used) I asked before about there being no gasket with the DDC version and was told the gasket on my DDC pump would be fine. I be used this pump in several combos with no problems. Here is the only picture I have before turning the pump on. I followed the instructions which were good and simple enough. My concern is buying another pump only to have it happen again. Is there something I'm missing and needed to do. Sucks I'm out a 100 dollars now on a pump and down time. Note there was no visible leaks when I filled with distilled but when I took t apart there was a small droplets and a burnt board.


----------



## TheAbyss

Sorry to hear that. I have recently upgraded to a Heatkiller Tube 200 D5, and I noticed that the gasket that came with the tube was a lot thicker (same outer Diameter though) than the one I previously used for the D5. Maybe it really was the gasket in your case, I am sure you can order the proper one from Watercool. From what I recall, the meassurements are in the Manual, so maybe you can get a proper one in the States too.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Considering a Heatkiller block for 1080ti EVGA SC Black. EK states their Titan X block works just fine with SC Black Edition, but not SC 2. The list (http://gpu.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_GPU_Compatibility.pdf) did not mention black edition.


Yes, the HEATKILLER for TITAN X (Pascal) and 1080Ti water blocks are compatible to that card. Thanks for bringing it to our attention, we will add that card to the compatibility list









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hopefully I can get some help. Pretty mad right now as my pump just fried from looks to be small water droplets upon start up. Using the Heatkiller tube 200mm DDC that was gifted to me from Ibruce (he sent it new from ppcs so it wasn't used) I asked before about there being no gasket with the DDC version and was told the gasket on my DDC pump would be fine. I be used this pump in several combos with no problems. Here is the only picture I have before turning the pump on. I followed the instructions which were good and simple enough. My concern is buying another pump only to have it happen again. Is there something I'm missing and needed to do. Sucks I'm out a 100 dollars now on a pump and down time. Note there was no visible leaks when I filled with distilled but when I took t apart there was a small droplets and a burnt board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. I have recently upgraded to a Heatkiller Tube 200 D5, and I noticed that the gasket that came with the tube was a lot thicker (same outer Diameter though) than the one I previously used for the D5. Maybe it really was the gasket in your case, I am sure you can order the proper one from Watercool. From what I recall, the meassurements are in the Manual, so maybe you can get a proper one in the States too.


Oh my god, that sounds horrible! First of all, yes, with the D5 versions, we provide an alternative gasket that HAS to be used to seal the pump in the res. With the DDC, however, you simply use the original gasket that comes with the pump. We are saddened to hear that you had a problem with one of our products, so I'll try to help you the best I can. To find the culprit, you can do the following steps:
- please measure your O-ring. The original is 48x2.5 mm. This is 48mm inner diameter by 2.5mm thickness. You said that you used this pump in previous other mounting situations, maybe you mixed up the O-rings with one that was provided with one that was supplied by another manufacturer?
- It might also be possible that the O-ring got damaged. Could you please take some pics of the ring (both sides) and from both the inside of the DDC housing and the pump itself? Meaning the two areas that the ring touched? You can send them either via forum PM or to [email protected]
- If you are unsure, you can also ship the res, pump and o-ring to use and we examine them ourselves. If we find a mistake caused by our products, we will, of course, reimburse you for both the destroyed pump and all shipping costs. Please also contact me directly if you want to proceed this way.
- if you want to use a new pump, we suggest to slightly moisten the O-ring prior to installation. This can help to have it slip into the groove without any stress or damage.

I hope that this helps to solve your problem. Please feel free to contact me directly if you need any more help.


----------



## emsj86

Just sent an email with pictures. I'm off to work and hopefully can pick up another pump at microcenter today. I hope it's a o ring that way I can get his fixed fast. Thanks for the fast response


----------



## BoredErica

Does Heatkiller have plans to develop full cover waterblocks for non-reference 1080tis? Otherwise I'll just grab a SC.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Just sent an email with pictures. I'm off to work and hopefully can pick up another pump at microcenter today. I hope it's a o ring that way I can get his fixed fast. Thanks for the fast response












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Does Heatkiller have plans to develop full cover waterblocks for non-reference 1080tis? Otherwise I'll just grab a SC.


We are undecided as of yet. We would like to do one, probably EVGA FTW or ASUS Strix, but are unsure if we can squeeze it into our timetable. We will make that decision over the Eastern holidays, so I will have an answer for you early next week.

Hey folks,
Today's post comes to you in two parts.

Part1: 1080Ti.
We received a lot of requests about our 1080Ti / TITAN X water block. The bottom line was that people didn't like the cutout for the DVI port when they mounted the block on a 1080Ti. To further prove that we value our customer's feedback, I am happy that I can present to you our revamped dedicated 1080Ti water blocks!














































We will only offer the versions with the acrylic top. The copper version and the nickel version are already available through our online shop, the nickel-black version with the black front cover will be available in two weeks. We will also offer replacement tops and covers for those people who already bought the older version of the block and want to upgrade it themselves.

Part2: Eastern2017.
To celebrate Eastern and to thank all our customers for the great spring we had this far, we offer a discount code! Please use *HAPPYEASTER2017* during checkout to get 10% off in our online shop. The discount code is valid from Friday, April 14th 00:01 until Monday, April 17th 23:59 (german time, CET+1). Happy shopping and happy Eastern!


----------



## XxSilent22xX

Titan Xp?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Yes! Glad to hear the new block tops are happening! Might just have to get a nickel top and skip the two week wait for black


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Part2: Eastern2017.
> To celebrate Eastern and to thank all our customers for the great spring we had this far, we offer a discount code! Please use *HAPPYEASTER2017* during checkout to get 10% off in our online shop. The discount code is valid from Friday, April 14th 00:01 until Monday, April 17th 23:59 (german time, CET+1). Happy shopping and happy Eastern!


Is the code in effect yet?


----------



## XxSilent22xX

@darkwizzie, post reads from the 14th to the 17th, wait a couple days


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxSilent22xX*
> 
> @darkwizzie, post reads from the 14th to the 17th, wait a couple days


Turns out I can't read









1pm, haven't slept yet.


----------



## braindamage

Ouch. I just received my Titan X Heatkiller IV last week for my 1080ti









Anyone know what size screw the Heatkiller IV uses? Still searching for a backplate I can use with it since I can't find the Heatkiller backplate in stock anywhere.


----------



## emsj86

Thanks Jakob for the fast response. After a new pump I'm up and running. Made sure to triple check the mounting. My old pump o ring looked fine. My only guess would be either something or somehow the o ring didn't seat right on the first pump. My wallet is lighter but it's running and it looks good. Bad picture and still a lot of work to be done but leak testing now and the light blue is from left over fluid in the rads.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks Jakob for the fast response. After a new pump I'm up and running. Made sure to triple check the mounting. My old pump o ring looked fine. My only guess would be either something or somehow the o ring didn't seat right on the first pump. My wallet is lighter but it's running and it looks good. Bad picture and still a lot of work to be done but leak testing now and the light blue is from left over fluid in the rads.


Good to hear, maybe it´s personal taste, but the light blue Looks really amazing in the System......


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxSilent22xX*
> 
> Titan Xp?


We haven't seen the PCB yet, so we don't know if it is compatible to the existing TITAN X(Pascal) water blocks. If it shouldn't be, we are undecided as of yet if we want to support that card... I'll keep you updated in this thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindamage*
> 
> Ouch. I just received my Titan X Heatkiller IV last week for my 1080ti


The additional development took some time. You can find the replacement top in a few days!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thanks Jakob for the fast response. After a new pump I'm up and running. Made sure to triple check the mounting. My old pump o ring looked fine. My only guess would be either something or somehow the o ring didn't seat right on the first pump. My wallet is lighter but it's running and it looks good. Bad picture and still a lot of work to be done but leak testing now and the light blue is from left over fluid in the rads.


Glad to hear that you could make it work! Yeah, those o-rings can be tough love sometimes... I usually have a cup of distilled water right next to me when building a rig. I always dip every o-ring, every fitting, and every end of the tubing into the distilled water and dry it a little bit with a paper towel. I believe that every gasket sits better when it is slightly moistened.

Personal note: I'm taking a small break over Easter holidays. So there might not be any answers from me to this thread from today up until Monday, or answers might be seriously delayed. Also, there won't be anybody in the office from Friday till Monday to answer emails. We wish happy holidays to all our customers around the world! See you all next week


----------



## emsj86

Yea I usually do the same with distilled and a small drop of dish soap bit of course I didn't do it on the pump. Just happy it's working


----------



## emsj86

Needs more work and cables but.


----------



## emsj86

Name: "The Process"


----------



## skingun

Loving my Watercool Heatkiller IV.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnc3l8yQj

https://imageshack.com/i/pmcE7SxZj

Not installed yet on the 1080Ti.


----------



## Newtocooling

Hi Jakob the Easter Code still seems to not be working for me. Are there any limitations to the code?


----------



## skingun

Code not working for me either.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Maybe they decided to wait until the black-ni blocks are available xD


----------



## emsj86

Probably h e to wait until after the weekend Jakob said he would be away


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Hi Jakob the Easter Code still seems to not be working for me. Are there any limitations to the code?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Code not working for me either.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Probably h e to wait until after the weekend Jakob said he would be away


Hey guys,
I heard about the problems with the discount code. There seems to be some sort of problem with the shop script, but I can't figure it out from here and can't reach any of the technicians right now.

I am aware of the problem and try to find a fast solution. I'll keep you updated!


----------



## skingun

Thanks. Waiting to place my order patiently.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Should be working now. Please feel free to contact me at [email protected] if it doesn't.

We apologise for the inconvenience.


----------



## skingun

Hi. Just tried to place order. The code is not working...

Edit: e-mail sent.


----------



## BoredErica

Edit:

Apparently time in Germany is 9hr ahead instead of 3hr behind. (Was wondering how 3 hr behind even works but I didn't question it enough apparently.)

I can't believe how much I've failed in the past few days.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Hi. Just tried to place order. The code is not working...
> 
> Edit: e-mail sent.


You might have been just at the cutoff for it to be Monday in Germany.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Incase of the gpu blocks inlet must be the ports on the I/O side and outlet must be the other side right? Trying to figure out why my 1080ti runs hot.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/povWB0RSj

1080Ti block installed and new CPU block, still got my Nickel tubing to do.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Apparently time in Germany is 9hr ahead instead of 3hr behind. (Was wondering how 3 hr behind even works but I didn't question it enough apparently.)
> 
> I can't believe how much I've failed in the past few days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might have been just at the cutoff for it to be Monday in Germany.


I shouldn't have been cut off. I'm in the UK and it was Sunday evening when I tried to place my order. Referring to the original post the offer is live until Monday 17th at 23:59.

@Watercool-Jakob Can you hook me up?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
I'm back from the vacation. Was good to spend some quality time with the family!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Name: "The Process"


Looks great! I'm happy that we could solve your issue. Mod on, brother!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Loving my Watercool Heatkiller IV.


Great pic! Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate this! May I reuse this pic on our social media outlets?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnc3l8yQj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pmcE7SxZj
> 
> Not installed yet on the 1080Ti.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/povWB0RSj
> 
> 1080Ti block installed and new CPU block, still got my Nickel tubing to do.


Looks great, thanks for sharing! Same question to you, sir: may I reuse those pics on our social media outlets?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Incase of the gpu blocks inlet must be the ports on the I/O side and outlet must be the other side right? Trying to figure out why my 1080ti runs hot.


Yes, this is the right orientation. But even if you connect it the other way round, you will get slightly worse flow rate and ~3-8°C worse temperatures. So, the port orientation does matter, but it's not super important.
How hot exactly does your card run? And can you specify your complete loop setup? Maybe we can find the problem together!

Now, about this %&$§-ing discount code:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Hi Jakob the Easter Code still seems to not be working for me. Are there any limitations to the code?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Code not working for me either.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Maybe they decided to wait until the black-ni blocks are available xD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Apparently time in Germany is 9hr ahead instead of 3hr behind. (Was wondering how 3 hr behind even works but I didn't question it enough apparently.)
> 
> I can't believe how much I've failed in the past few days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might have been just at the cutoff for it to be Monday in Germany.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> I shouldn't have been cut off. I'm in the UK and it was Sunday evening when I tried to place my order. Referring to the original post the offer is live until Monday 17th at 23:59.
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Can you hook me up?


As you all already realized, this discount code just did not work as intended. Somehow, the javascript applet in my coworker's computer decided to misfunction horribly.

Twice.

So, to apologize for your inconvenience, we continue the discount code until April 19th 23:59 CET+1 (Wednesday night german time). If you already ordered from us and the discount code did not work, we will manually reimburse you 10% of your total. Please drop me a message with your order number if this applies to you.


----------



## skingun

Got my order in. Thank you @Watercool-Jakob


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm back from the vacation. Was good to spend some quality time with the family!
> Looks great! I'm happy that we could solve your issue. Mod on, brother!
> Great pic! Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate this! May I reuse this pic on our social media outlets?
> 
> Looks great, thanks for sharing! Same question to you, sir: may I reuse those pics on our social media outlets?


Sure thing.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Sure thing.


Thank you 

Send me your pics, folks, we love seeing how you put our products to work


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Great pic! Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate this! May I reuse this pic on our social media outlets?
> 
> .


Absolutely


----------



## BoredErica

Wow, thanks for the extension. I actually failed to get the promotion last time due to my own fault (misread timezones).

The pages all say the various 1080ti blocks are the same weight: 800g. That's weird because there are multiple different designs, with steel, aluminum, acetal, etc.


----------



## Bart

Watercool-Jakob: is there any way to find out an ETA on your shipment to Dazmode here in Canada? I'm looking for AM4 mounts, but I prefer to give Daz my money since he's local, and I like to support local guys. But if it's going to be months of waiting, I'll order directly from you guys, if that's possible and I don't get soaked with import duties.


----------



## khemist

Seem to be having a problem with my new CPU block, the Anthracite version works fine but the Acrylic version hardly touches the cpu when mounted, the pressure is so little.

I used the mounting hardware that i had already installed for the Anthracite version so i could just switch blocks so it shouldn't make any difference since both the block and mounting hardware are the exact same.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Seem to be having a problem with my new CPU block, the Anthracite version works fine but the Acrylic version hardly touches the cpu when mounted, the pressure is so little.
> 
> I used the mounting hardware that i had already installed for the Anthracite version so i could just switch blocks so it shouldn't make any difference since both the block and mounting hardware are the exact same.


Hm. This sounds odd  Okay, how did you verify tat the pressure is too little? Did you have a significant temperature drop? Did you change block orientation? Be aware that the normal orientation (inlet in the middle, outlet in the top) works on all boards. But there are a few 115X boards where the "goofy" orientation (switched 90° from normal) is not possible.


----------



## VSG

Motherboard makers and their capacitors too close to the CPU socket


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hm. This sounds odd  Okay, how did you verify tat the pressure is too little? Did you have a significant temperature drop? Did you change block orientation? Be aware that the normal orientation (inlet in the middle, outlet in the top) works on all boards. But there are a few 115X boards where the "goofy" orientation (switched 90° from normal) is not possible.


I can see that the thermal paste hasn't been spread out, it's hardly been touched with the Acrylic version but i can slap the Anthracite version on and feel the suction of the cpu paste being spread out when i put it on, i'm running it goofy.

There is a 10c difference between the two, they both have the exact same dimensions do they not? and the mounting hardware is the exact same spec?.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I can see that the thermal paste hasn't been spread out, it's hardly been touched with the Acrylic version but i can slap the Anthracite version on and feel the suction of the cpu paste being spread out when i put it on, i'm running it goofy.
> 
> There is a 10c difference between the two, they both have the exact same dimensions do they not? and the mounting hardware is the exact same spec?.


This is super weird. Right now, we do not know a definite answer to this. Yes, both the block dimensions and the mounting brackets are exactly the same, so theoretically, it should not be possible that the one block fits, but the other doesn't.

Let me state the easy answer first: the acrylic block will definitely fit in the normal orientation (turned by 90°).

So, if you are willing to participate in a little experiment, we would like you to take some steps so maybe we can find out together what is happening here.

If I understand you correctly, you own two complete Heatkiller IV blocks? Or do you have just one block with a replacement top?

- First, I would like you to mount the acrylic block in normal orientation. If this works, we can rule out that the block itself is faulty (which I am extremely confident that it's not. Just want to make sure).
- Try mounting the acrylic block in goofy orientation, just like you did. When you place the block, try if you can wiggle it a teeny tiny bit. Maybe, one of those capacitors is just fractions of a mm too close to the socket, and you have enough clearance through the slotted holes in the mounting brackets.
- If this doesn't work, I would like you to exchange the mounting brackets from the anthracite block with those from the acrylic block and try mounting the acrylic block in goofy again. Maybe, you received brackets that were on the far end of the manufacturing tolerances and thusly were the fraction of a mm too wide/narrow/whatever.

To identify the exact spot that causes the incompatibility, you can place a sheet of paper over the capacitors and gently try to pull it out when the block is mounted. It SHOULD move out easily. If there is some resistance anywhere, you have found the exact spot.

Thanks for your support!


----------



## khemist

I'll try with the brackets that came with the acrylic first and report back.


----------



## paskowitz

Opened my HK IV Pro for the first time... Jesus those fins are tiny!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I can see that the thermal paste hasn't been spread out, it's hardly been touched with the Acrylic version but i can slap the Anthracite version on and feel the suction of the cpu paste being spread out when i put it on, i'm running it goofy.
> 
> There is a 10c difference between the two, they both have the exact same dimensions do they not? and the mounting hardware is the exact same spec?.


I have both the Acrylic and Anthracite versions myself. I did have around a 5c difference between mine as well. I just assumed it was the higher metal volume of the Anthracite compared to the acrylic.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Opened my HK IV Pro for the first time... Jesus those fins are tiny!


They are tiny, and will dip your flowrate, but give you incredible performance!!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Watercool-Jakob: is there any way to find out an ETA on your shipment to Dazmode here in Canada? I'm looking for AM4 mounts, but I prefer to give Daz my money since he's local, and I like to support local guys. But if it's going to be months of waiting, I'll order directly from you guys, if that's possible and I don't get soaked with import duties.


Small bump for this question, which got lost in the troubleshooting.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Small bump for this question, which got lost in the troubleshooting.


Performance-pcs said it takes about 4 to 6 weeks to get stock once they place a order. I would check with Dazmode to see if they even placed a order yet.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Performance-pcs said it takes about 4 to 6 weeks to get stock once they place a order. I would check with Dazmode to see if they even placed a order yet.


Daz did place an order, which is why I'm asking Watercool directly. Even Daz doesn't have an ETA.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Daz did place an order, which is why I'm asking Watercool directly. Even Daz doesn't have an ETA.


Then it's going to be 4 to 6 weeks. I doubt WaterCool can give you an arrival date, Only when it will ship out or when it shipped out. It might take awhile to pass through customs & not sure what shipping service they use when bigger orders are placed.


----------



## Revan654

It's been awhile since I posted my build progress. Here is where I am currently at with my build. I still need to replace the silver screws. Just need to figure out the length & type first.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Watercool-Jakob: is there any way to find out an ETA on your shipment to Dazmode here in Canada? I'm looking for AM4 mounts, but I prefer to give Daz my money since he's local, and I like to support local guys. But if it's going to be months of waiting, I'll order directly from you guys, if that's possible and I don't get soaked with import duties.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Performance-pcs said it takes about 4 to 6 weeks to get stock once they place a order. I would check with Dazmode to see if they even placed a order yet.


The order for Daz is currently still being processed. So 4-6 weeks seems like a reasonable timeframe.
I cannot make statements about Canadian import duties (or any other, actually). But I never heard complaints from our customers about it, so as far as I know, it is easy and inexpensive to order directly from us. If you are ordering only those brackets, we can also offer shipping via padded envelope, which only costs ~7,99€.

The last couple of months were a roller coaster that only went up for us. We had several months in a row that each beat the previous month's sales records. We owe this to you, our great fans and supporters, and are very grateful for all the enthusiasts out there that love Heatkiller products.

Unfortunately, this development also meant that we had serious troubles to cope with the high demands. Our order processing and shipping times were not up to our own standards, and we were very unhappy with this situation.

To solve this issue, we started to expand our workshop! This annex will offer us 200m² (~2200 sq ft) of space for a complete additional assembly and packaging line and some new machines.

Thanks for your ongoing support!


----------



## Bart

Awesome news!! Thanks for the info Jakob! Do you guys stock a decent amount of AM4 brackets?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Awesome news!! Thanks for the info Jakob! Do you guys stock a decent amount of AM4 brackets?


Depends on your definition of "decent amount"








If you mean at our shop: yeah, we do. Plus, we can produce more








If you mean in Daz's order: I can currently not look into that, I'm sorry. It's 11p.m., so I'm actually not in the shop anymore


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Depends on your definition of "decent amount"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you mean at our shop: yeah, we do. Plus, we can produce more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you mean in Daz's order: I can currently not look into that, I'm sorry. It's 11p.m., so I'm actually not in the shop anymore


Awesome, but I did mean your shop.







Something that small probably won't cost a fortune even if I order directly from you. Thanks again sir, and enjoy those drinks.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> This is super weird. Right now, we do not know a definite answer to this. Yes, both the block dimensions and the mounting brackets are exactly the same, so theoretically, it should not be possible that the one block fits, but the other doesn't.
> 
> Let me state the easy answer first: the acrylic block will definitely fit in the normal orientation (turned by 90°).
> 
> So, if you are willing to participate in a little experiment, we would like you to take some steps so maybe we can find out together what is happening here.
> 
> If I understand you correctly, you own two complete Heatkiller IV blocks? Or do you have just one block with a replacement top?
> 
> - First, I would like you to mount the acrylic block in normal orientation. If this works, we can rule out that the block itself is faulty (which I am extremely confident that it's not. Just want to make sure).
> - Try mounting the acrylic block in goofy orientation, just like you did. When you place the block, try if you can wiggle it a teeny tiny bit. Maybe, one of those capacitors is just fractions of a mm too close to the socket, and you have enough clearance through the slotted holes in the mounting brackets.
> - If this doesn't work, I would like you to exchange the mounting brackets from the anthracite block with those from the acrylic block and try mounting the acrylic block in goofy again. Maybe, you received brackets that were on the far end of the manufacturing tolerances and thusly were the fraction of a mm too wide/narrow/whatever.
> 
> To identify the exact spot that causes the incompatibility, you can place a sheet of paper over the capacitors and gently try to pull it out when the block is mounted. It SHOULD move out easily. If there is some resistance anywhere, you have found the exact spot.
> 
> Thanks for your support!


Seems it wasn't making quite as good contact as i thought running it goofy, some caps must be slightly in the way so i'm running it normal now and temps are fine.

https://imageshack.com/i/pmfF3snBj

https://imageshack.com/i/pm8qC3Pbj

https://imageshack.com/i/poyAxhwtj

https://imageshack.com/i/poLtzrvej



Switched back to the Anthracite version just for now and have tubing to match.


----------



## cadger

Anyone know who has backplates in stock?


----------



## Wally West

Hey, Jacob, some products doesn't have pictures? Do you have some?
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserk%C3%BChler/%22CPU%20K%C3%BChler%22/%22f%C3%BCr%20AMD%20Sockel%22


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, Jacob, some products doesn't have pictures? Do you have some?
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserk%C3%BChler/%22CPU%20K%C3%BChler%22/%22f%C3%BCr%20AMD%20Sockel%22


Thanks for the headsup. Yes, we are aware of this. We didn't offer every version of the CPU blocks for AMD, since there simply was no demand for it. Since AM4, the demand has ryzen (... seewhatididthere?) significantly, so we started to offer the other versions too, but didn't have the time for a proper photoshooting. We'll deliver them asap.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for the headsup. Yes, we are aware of this. We didn't offer every version of the CPU blocks for AMD, since there simply was no demand for it. Since AM4, the demand has ryzen (... seewhatididthere?) significantly, so we started to offer the other versions too, but didn't have the time for a proper photoshooting. We'll deliver them asap.


Send it to me, I'll do some pictures


----------



## 0ldChicken

@Watercool-JakobAny updates on the black top 1080Ti blocks?


----------



## Revan654

Nothing really special, I replaced all the visible silver screws with black screws. I had darker steel screws on the top of the res originally, I replaced them with stainless steel screws. I felt the steel screws were a bit cheap. The bottom has them same screws, I can't get my camera under it due to the radiator.

The mounting screws (Which are M4 countersunk, were allot harder to find). These are pure Aluminum screws.

Replaced the screws in my GPU to stainless black screws. Now everything matches or very close to it.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am in the process of ordering my heatkiller IV waterblock and I am not sure if I should go with the nickel or black, both windowed.

Here are some pics of my case:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









FYI, I have been thinking of using some mirror like finish vinyl on some of the back of the case and on parts of the drive cages to the right of the photo....
I almost forgot to ask: @Watercool-Jakob will the watercool waterblock fit with the EVGA powerlink pictured on my card in the photos? Here is a link to the product.


----------



## kevindd992002

Aside from buying directly from Watercool's webshop, where can you get a Heatkiller Tube with the free upgrade to a multitop cap?


----------



## M-Sauce

Hello. Rig mostly finished, second WCed build for me. My first rig had Heatkiller GPU blocks for my SLI 580. Instantly fell in love with the build quality. Second to none IMHO.

This time I went with two 1080 blocks and they are simply works of art. The materials and quality are off the charts. Love the texturing on the backplate screws.

I also instantly fell in love with the new reservoirs. Never going back to acrylic again. I wish you guys could come up with a good dual pump top/res component. That was the hardest part to integrate into my loop.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Aside from buying directly from Watercool's webshop, where can you get a Heatkiller Tube with the free upgrade to a multitop cap?


None, I haven't seen any site that offered the multitop instead of the default top. It's something that only WaterCool webstore offers. I'm guessing shipping cost is a bit pricey to where you live?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> None, I haven't seen any site that offered the multitop instead of the default top. It's something that only WaterCool webstore offers. I'm guessing shipping cost is a bit pricey to where you live?


Bummer! I emailed Watercool about this. IMO, other sites should also offer this. Definitely, shipping costs will likely be around 40 Euro or so if I remember correctly how my friend bought his GPU block recently from them.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Bummer! I emailed Watercool about this. IMO, other sites should also offer this. Definitely, shipping costs will likely be around 40 Euro or so if I remember correctly how my friend bought his GPU block recently from them.


Free shipping on orders over $200.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Free shipping on orders over $200.


i think that's Germany only. Otherwise id definitely be beefing up my order to include a res


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> i think that's Germany only. Otherwise id definitely be beefing up my order to include a res


I guess you are right. I could have sworn I saw it a couple weeks ago.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Aside from buying directly from Watercool's webshop, where can you get a Heatkiller Tube with the free upgrade to a multitop cap?


@Watercool-Jakob

Any comment on this?


----------



## JasonMorris

In the UK I did not find a retailer doing it so had to order mine direct. It's a toss up between the post costs or paying for the separate top.


----------



## eucalyptus

Hope to put this beauty under water by Heatkiller real soon.

Anyone who has the 1080 ti block and could share some pictures? Really aren't any pictures out there :/


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
sorry, had a busy weekend in my private life (yes, sometimes I have that too







) and the first of May is a national holiday in Germany. But here I am again for you







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @Watercool-JakobAny updates on the black top 1080Ti blocks?


They SHOULD be available next monday (May 8th). But it depends a little bit on the plating company and the shipping company. So, fingers crossed...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I am in the process of ordering my heatkiller IV waterblock and I am not sure if I should go with the nickel or black, both windowed.
> 
> Here are some pics of my case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, I have been thinking of using some mirror like finish vinyl on some of the back of the case and on parts of the drive cages to the right of the photo....
> I almost forgot to ask: @Watercool-Jakob will the watercool waterblock fit with the EVGA powerlink pictured on my card in the photos? Here is a link to the product.


If you want recommendations: I feel like the black one would fit better to your overall darker, gritty theme. I feel like the nickel could be too shiny in there.
Concerning the Power Link: we have honestly no idea! You would be the first customer to try it that we know of, so we'd be highly interested in feedback. As a general rule of thumb, accessories that are designed for the reference layout are usually compatible with our water blocks, but we cannot guarantee it in this case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Aside from buying directly from Watercool's webshop, where can you get a Heatkiller Tube with the free upgrade to a multitop cap?


Nowhere. It would require the resellers to stock the multiport top themselves, and then offer the additional service of disassembling the assembled, packaged Tube and reassembling and repackaging it with the multiport top in exchange for the standard top. We do not prohibit this in any way, but it seems an awful lot of work on the resellers' side, so they shy away from it, which I can perfectly understand. You could probably ask them nicely, but I seriously doubt they will offer it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Hello. Rig mostly finished, second WCed build for me. My first rig had Heatkiller GPU blocks for my SLI 580. Instantly fell in love with the build quality. Second to none IMHO.
> 
> This time I went with two 1080 blocks and they are simply works of art. The materials and quality are off the charts. Love the texturing on the backplate screws.
> 
> I also instantly fell in love with the new reservoirs. Never going back to acrylic again. I wish you guys could come up with a good dual pump top/res component. That was the hardest part to integrate into my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the great pics, this surely does look nice! And thanks for the input concerning the dual pump top - we plan to redesign our complete line of pump tops this year and are still open for input. I will definitely pass this on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Free shipping on orders over $200.


Free shipping on orders over 200€ is restricted to Germany, that is true. But we also offer free shipping on orders above 400€ to a number of countries (including US, Canada and Philippines). If you are unsure if this applies to your country, you can check the shipping cost with FedEx: if it is 39,95€ or less, free shipping for 400€+ applies. Only those countries with FedEx shipping of 49.95€ can not receive the free shipping bonus. I'll see if we can publish a complete list with this somewhere If you are unsure about your country - feel free to ask me, that's what I'm here for









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hope to put this beauty under water by Heatkiller real soon.
> 
> Anyone who has the 1080 ti block and could share some pictures? Really aren't any pictures out there :/


Nope, I don't know of any mounted pics, either. Would love to get some, too!


----------



## khemist

i posted pics earlier in the thread, will try get a better one later, check my rig pic.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> sorry, had a busy weekend in my private life (yes, sometimes I have that too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and the first of May is a national holiday in Germany. But here I am again for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They SHOULD be available next monday (May 8th). But it depends a little bit on the plating company and the shipping company. So, fingers crossed...


I think we all understand that life happens







Thanks for the update! It will be so worth it!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Can't resist... Woohoo, for once Canada gets a bonus not everyone else does ^_^ (now if only our currency was stronger like it was a few years ago







)


----------



## LiquidHaus

pretty excited I was able to get my hands on one of these beasts finally...



and I couldn't pass up the opportunity to get a close up of this beauty either!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> i posted pics earlier in the thread, will try get a better one later, check my rig pic.


I THINK he was referring to the dedicated 1080Ti block without the DVI cutout.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Can't resist... Woohoo, for once Canada gets a bonus not everyone else does ^_^ (now if only our currency was stronger like it was a few years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


It's weird, I feel like we have just as many customers in Canada as in the US! Canada seems to be Heatkiller-country









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> pretty excited I was able to get my hands on one of these beasts finally...
> 
> [*img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3025381/[/img]
> 
> and I couldn't pass up the opportunity to get a close up of this beauty either!
> 
> [*img]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3025382/[/img]


Ugh, can't wait to see those videos! Hey everybody, go and check out http://liquid.haus, definitely worth a subscribe









In unrelated news: Our workshop expansion is coming together nicely:


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> It's weird, I feel like we have just as many customers in Canada as in the US! Canada seems to be Heatkiller-country


It's probably since a lot of big watercoolers guy are in Canada (Snef, Duality, Akira)


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hope to put this beauty under water by Heatkiller real soon.
> 
> Anyone who has the 1080 ti block and could share some pictures? Really aren't any pictures out there :/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sorry my pics are not that great but this is my 1080ti. The black block was not available, so I got the Acrylic Ni and I love it!!!!!


----------



## 0ldChicken

That looks great! It's so shiny the mobo makes it look dark!

Are these blocks shipping with a single slot i/o?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> That looks great! It's so shiny the mobo makes it look dark!
> 
> Are these blocks shipping with a single slot i/o?


I fully agree this looks super awesome. Actually had to look twice to fully understand which is the real thing and what is reflection









We do not include a single slot I/O. Our block is eversoslightly thicker than one single slot, so we didn't want to be misleading. We could offer a separate single slot I/O, however, if people wanted it.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> That looks great! It's so shiny the mobo makes it look dark!
> 
> Are these blocks shipping with a single slot i/o?


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I fully agree this looks super awesome. Actually had to look twice to fully understand which is the real thing and what is reflection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We do not include a single slot I/O. Our block is eversoslightly thicker than one single slot, so we didn't want to be misleading. We could offer a separate single slot I/O, however, if people wanted it.


Jakob you guys make blocks that perform as good as they look!! With an ambient temp of around 21C my card doesn't go over 31C under full load overclocked to 2062 core and 400 added to the memory. This is at around 1050 volts. The block is an absolute monster.


----------



## Newtocooling

Here's a look at clocks and temps with the block


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I fully agree this looks super awesome. Actually had to look twice to fully understand which is the real thing and what is reflection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We do not include a single slot I/O. Our block is eversoslightly thicker than one single slot, so we didn't want to be misleading. We could offer a separate single slot I/O, however, if people wanted it.


i think that would be great but probably not necessary. I'm planning on doing a vertical gpu of sorts (who isn't these days? lol) so id like to keep a very clean aesthetic. That will probably require some sort of cover plate for the back for other reasons so i should be able to work it out that way.

Thanks again!


----------



## paskowitz

Any plans for an EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 block?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Any plans for an EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 block?


Ditto.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> sorry, had a busy weekend in my private life (yes, sometimes I have that too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and the first of May is a national holiday in Germany. But here I am again for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They SHOULD be available next monday (May 8th). But it depends a little bit on the plating company and the shipping company. So, fingers crossed...
> If you want recommendations: I feel like the black one would fit better to your overall darker, gritty theme. I feel like the nickel could be too shiny in there.
> Concerning the Power Link: we have honestly no idea! You would be the first customer to try it that we know of, so we'd be highly interested in feedback. As a general rule of thumb, accessories that are designed for the reference layout are usually compatible with our water blocks, but we cannot guarantee it in this case.


I'll post some pics once I get it ordered and put together.

I was originally going for total black out. But as I put more stuff into my case I am thinking of going more for a dark knight look. As it stands now I will be covering the outside of my case in some vinyl patterned in carbon fiber. I also want to do something similar inside my Phantom 820 but am still unsure as to what color. I was thinking either blue (dark knight theme) or even silver (mirrored) along with some red in a few areas. I'm just not sure how I want to lay it all out. I might even do either a different color carbon fiber vinyl or just a different pattern than what I am going to use on the outside.


----------



## paskowitz

Welp... I just ruined the face of my HK IV Pro CPU block. The surface had some light scuffs so I got some metal polish. No grit, light polish. Well... it ate away at the dark coating on the side of the block. Be advised of you are polishing your block. Don't use any compound.

I don't think a replacement is going to be economical. @Watercool-Jakob any chance I could keep the cold plate and braces and replace the face? $?


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Welp... I just ruined the face of my HK IV Pro CPU block. The surface had some light scuffs so I got some metal polish. No grit, light polish. Well... it ate away at the dark coating on the side of the block. Be advised of you are polishing your block. Don't use any compound.
> 
> I don't think a replacement is going to be economical. @Watercool-Jakob any chance I could keep the cold plate and braces and replace the face? $?


got a pic?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jakob you guys make blocks that perform as good as they look!! With an ambient temp of around 21C my card doesn't go over 31C under full load overclocked to 2062 core and 400 added to the memory. This is at around 1050 volts. The block is an absolute monster.


Thanks. I'm just happy that we could figure the problems with your order out and you still got love for Heatkiller









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> i think that would be great but probably not necessary. I'm planning on doing a vertical gpu of sorts (who isn't these days? lol) so id like to keep a very clean aesthetic. That will probably require some sort of cover plate for the back for other reasons so i should be able to work it out that way.
> 
> Thanks again!


Hehe, I'm in the same spot, actually! I'm thinking about this nice bracket from mountainmods for my private rig. Just need to find the time to disassemble the whole PC to be able to cut the case without damaging any hardware...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Any plans for an EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Ditto.


We really wanted to do it. But seeing how we got pushed to our very limits in the last couple of months, we are really struggling to satisfy the demands as is. So sadly, we highly doubt that we will find a timeslot to design a new block right now. We just really need to budget our energy, and right now, we need to focus it on keeping business rolling with the existing line of products.
Sorry









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I was originally going for total black out. But as I put more stuff into my case I am thinking of going more for a dark knight look. As it stands now I will be covering the outside of my case in some vinyl patterned in carbon fiber. I also want to do something similar inside my Phantom 820 but am still unsure as to what color. I was thinking either blue (dark knight theme) or even silver (mirrored) along with some red in a few areas. I'm just not sure how I want to lay it all out. I might even do either a different color carbon fiber vinyl or just a different pattern than what I am going to use on the outside.


I liked the black/purple you are having right now. Actually reminded me of Batman a lot as it is right now! I would encourage you to keep on in that direction. I think that the black/red theme is just too dominant in the scene, every ROG build has been following this theme for years. I'd encourage you to follow a more unique way!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Welp... I just ruined the face of my HK IV Pro CPU block. The surface had some light scuffs so I got some metal polish. No grit, light polish. Well... it ate away at the dark coating on the side of the block. Be advised of you are polishing your block. Don't use any compound.
> 
> I don't think a replacement is going to be economical. @Watercool-Jakob any chance I could keep the cold plate and braces and replace the face? $?


Oh wow, that sounds horrible! Just to be sure, we are talking about the black plating on a Copper An block? Yeah, this layer is only a few nanometers thick. We can definitely send you a replacement top, but I'll have to double check the pricing with my Supervisor. Please send me your shipping info (address and phone number) to [email protected] and we'll figure something out!


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> pretty excited I was able to get my hands on one of these beasts finally...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I couldn't pass up the opportunity to get a close up of this beauty either!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Loving the Res.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We really wanted to do it. But seeing how we got pushed to our very limits in the last couple of months, we are really struggling to satisfy the demands as is. So sadly, we highly doubt that we will find a timeslot to design a new block right now. We just really need to budget our energy, and right now, we need to focus it on keeping business rolling with the existing line of products.
> Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh wow, that sounds horrible! Just to be sure, we are talking about the black plating on a Copper An block? Yeah, this layer is only a few nanometers thick. We can definitely send you a replacement top, but I'll have to double check the pricing with my Supervisor. Please send me your shipping info (address and phone number) to [email protected] and we'll figure something out!


Thanks for the reply. No problem on the FTW3 block. I'm likely going to wait for Volta at this point anyways.

Sent you an email re the CPU block.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Welp... I just ruined the face of my HK IV Pro CPU block. The surface had some light scuffs so I got some metal polish. No grit, light polish. Well... it ate away at the dark coating on the side of the block. Be advised of you are polishing your block. Don't use any compound.
> 
> I don't think a replacement is going to be economical. @Watercool-Jakob any chance I could keep the cold plate and braces and replace the face? $?


They sell all replacement parts for your block on the site.

https://sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf/sec5f2942000e/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Wasserk%C3%BChler/%22CPU%20K%C3%BChler%22/Zubeh%C3%B6r

https://sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf/sec5f2942000e/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Categories/Ersatzteile/CPU_Kuehler

Sorry when I first read your post I thought you needed the backplate, these links won't help you


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> got a pic?











Won't make that mistake again. Thankfully a replacement is on its way.


----------



## Bart

Since you're replacing it, you should just continue and finish polishing the thing, just to see what it looks like at the end.


----------



## equilni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> In unrelated news: Our workshop expansion is coming together nicely:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to see the expansion are coming together!

I too am waiting for the back plates to come available for me 1070 (Product# 16063). Just got the block, and see I can't leave the FE backplate with the block....


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I liked the black/purple you are having right now. Actually reminded me of Batman a lot as it is right now! I would encourage you to keep on in that direction. I think that the black/red theme is just too dominant in the scene, every ROG build has been following this theme for years. I'd encourage you to follow a more unique way!


Thanks but that purple is actually my UV lights, it doesn't look purple when seen with the naked eye. Though I do have the case lights and a HUE+ installed so I could go with what ever color set up I wanted....lol. I am thinking of putting a vinyl decal on the clear part of SBZ card to cover up some of that red light. I still have ideas on how I want to set up the inside of my case. I was originally going with all black and some blue (hence the blue UV tubing). Then, because of the red light from the SBZ card and the other MB lights I decided to go with some red also (hence the anti kink coils around the tubing), though it does not look very red in the pic). I have a bunch of UV paint and some vinyl decal that I can use, but I am not sure what colors (if any) and how exactly I want to place it. I will probably be doing part of the outside of the case this weekend in the carbon fiber vinyl and may do the drive cages and optical bays also.

EDIT: I have been in the process of ordering the heatkiller IV waterblock for my GPU, but I still have not been able to find a backplate manufacturer that either has or will do a batman symbol. I queried V1tech and they never responded.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks but that purple is actually my UV lights, it doesn't look purple when seen with the naked eye. Though I do have the case lights and a HUE+ installed so I could go with what ever color set up I wanted....lol. I am thinking of putting a vinyl decal on the clear part of SBZ card to cover up some of that red light. I still have ideas on how I want to set up the inside of my case. I was originally going with all black and some blue (hence the blue UV tubing). Then, because of the red light from the SBZ card and the other MB lights I decided to go with some red also (hence the anti kink coils around the tubing), though it does not look very red in the pic). I have a bunch of UV paint and some vinyl decal that I can use, but I am not sure what colors (if any) and how exactly I want to place it. I will probably be doing part of the outside of the case this weekend in the carbon fiber vinyl and may do the drive cages and optical bays also.
> 
> EDIT: I have been in the process of ordering the heatkiller IV waterblock for my GPU, but I still have not been able to find a backplate manufacturer that either has or will do a batman symbol. I queried V1tech and they never responded.


Have you considered custom cut vinyl wrap? Works quite well...


Please excuse the ek logo.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Have you considered custom cut vinyl wrap? Works quite well...
> 
> 
> Please excuse the ek logo.


Well I do have a cameo cutter machine in the pipeline, so I could cut my own eventually.

Is there a place that does this?


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Well I do have a cameo cutter machine in the pipeline, so I could cut my own eventually.
> 
> Is there a place that does this?


I had it done locally. A Batman logo should be pretty simple. I'm pretty sure there are online services that could do this.


----------



## Bart

Finally got the AM4 mounts for my Ryzen 1700:

Half way through the conversion, looking kinda Transformer-ish:


http://imgur.com/raCENz1



All done!


http://imgur.com/YGOrSQO


----------



## Madmaxneo

The Heatkiller IV Pro waterblock for my GTX 1070 came in today along with the new Mayhems HT-1 Nuke! Unfortunately I have to wait for the Swiftech H140X cooler I was going to use as the one I had in my cart got sold....lol. I would hook it up to my current H240-X but I am really pushing the temps on my CPU so I do not want to reduce the cooling capacity of that.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I also ordered a UV Blue plate from V1Tech that I will cover with some vinyl with some sort of cut in it.


----------



## Newtocooling

Hi Jakob

Did you guys decide if you were going to make a block for the 1080ti Strix yet? I'm thinking of upgrading but only if you guys are making a block for it. Do you really get any benefit from a waterblock on a card like that?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The Heatkiller IV Pro waterblock for my GTX 1070 came in today along with the new Mayhems HT-1 Nuke! Unfortunately I have to wait for the Swiftech H140X cooler I was going to use as the one I had in my cart got sold....lol. I would hook it up to my current H240-X but I am really pushing the temps on my CPU so I do not want to reduce the cooling capacity of that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also ordered a UV Blue plate from V1Tech that I will cover with some vinyl with some sort of cut in it.


I think you mean XT-1 Nuke







. I bough some as well, I had to buy five bottles worth just to fill my loop up. Thankfully doesn't need replacing for five years. Of course the second I bought XT-1 Nuke Mayhem starts talking about there new X1 line.

The second you buy something it's already out dated









Lesson: Don't let your Cat anywhere near watercool LED when trying to re-sleeve it. My Cat grabbed it and ran away with breaking the soldering points on the LED's (Breaking the LED's). Also be very careful if you re-sleeve these. The soldering point can break very easily, The wire is thin (I'm guessing it's 26 or 28 AWG).










Also I did notice that DarkSide LED almost fit the insert space on the res. If the space just a bit longer I could have fit a UV LED in there. Instead I had to put it behind the res.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I think you mean XT-1 Nuke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I bough some as well, I had to buy five bottles worth just to fill my loop up. Thankfully doesn't need replacing for five years. Of course the second I bought XT-1 Nuke Mayhem starts talking about there new X1 line.
> 
> The second you buy something it's already out dated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lesson: Don't let your Cat anywhere near watercool LED when trying to re-sleeve it. My Cat grabbed it and ran away with breaking the soldering points on the LED's (Breaking the LED's). Also be very careful if you re-sleeve these. The soldering point can break very easily, The wire is thin (I'm guessing it's 26 or 28 AWG).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I did notice that DarkSide LED almost fit the insert space on the res. If the space just a bit longer I could have fit a UV LED in there. Instead I had to put it behind the res.


Nope HT-1 Nuke is the next, next big thing. You see I went and ordered ahead and with today's amazing delivery service I got it already....lol. J/K! I just found about the XT-1 Nuke and they are still calling it new....lol. That is almost as bad as the radio is with "new" songs. A song is maybe new for like two weeks but not two or three months of air time....

I can see my cat getting ahold of something like that....lol, sorry but it is kind of funny especially since I also have a cat. Though for some reason when I am sitting on the floor doing some minor work on my PC my dog thinks it is time to get my attention with his toys....lol.


----------



## LiquidHaus

gotta fun little project I'm working on with an Inwin 909 right now! super happy I was able to do what I wanted to do with the Heatkiller Tube!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Finally got the AM4 mounts for my Ryzen 1700:
> 
> Half way through the conversion, looking kinda Transformer-ish:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/raCENz1


Funny picture, thanks for the share









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Hi Jakob
> 
> Did you guys decide if you were going to make a block for the 1080ti Strix yet? I'm thinking of upgrading but only if you guys are making a block for it. Do you really get any benefit from a waterblock on a card like that?


No, sadly, we will not support any custom layout for the 1080Ti. As I said earlier, our resources are already spread over a couple of other projects at the same time, and we simply can't squeeze this in anywhere.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> gotta fun little project I'm working on with an Inwin 909 right now! super happy I was able to do what I wanted to do with the Heatkiller Tube!


Oh, looking forward to the vid! Will the Tube stay mounted horizontally? I'm curious how well this will work. We never really tried it this way...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Black top blocks are a day early?!?! You guys are saints







Order incoming!
edit: by the way, I'm still going to note that I'd like the copper base instead of Ni plated
edit 2: No backplates anywhere in the world







I may just go for it now and get a backplate from ppcs or mmm later, I can't look at my rig in this temp state any longer


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Oh, looking forward to the vid! Will the Tube stay mounted horizontally? I'm curious how well this will work. We never really tried it this way...


Video should be uploaded at the end of the week!

And yes, the reservoir will stay mounted horizontally.

The system has left my house and is now with the person who owns it, but I had it for two days while it was up and running.

Honestly, I'm surprised you guys haven't thought about mounting them horizontally! I made the sure that the inlet side was on the bottom, so that coolant could evaporate down to almost half the height when sideways before the pump starts sucking in air. It works perfectly. Of course I had to fill it upright, but then once the top was sealed, back to being horizontal it went!

Edit: Here are some photos of the Tube and Pro IV


----------



## khemist

Looks great, well done!.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Black top blocks are a day early?!?! You guys are saints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Order incoming!
> edit: by the way, I'm still going to note that I'd like the copper base instead of Ni plated
> edit 2: No backplates anywhere in the world
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may just go for it now and get a backplate from ppcs or mmm later, I can't look at my rig in this temp state any longer


Oops! You're right, I owe you guys an announcement!



The Ni-Bl version of our highly acclaimed Heatkiller IV for GTX 1080Ti is finally available through our store!

Re copper base: we will not issue an extra article for it. It is just asked for to rarely. However, you can order the normal Ni-Bl version and specify in the comments section during checkout that you want a copper base plate. We will assemble that for you and refund you the difference from the copper to the nickel base.

Re backplates: you guys buy more backplates than ever before right now. I'm afraid to say, but our backplates are sold out AGAIN! We will try to somehow produce more backplates, but the machines are already red hot from the workload









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Video should be uploaded at the end of the week!
> 
> And yes, the reservoir will stay mounted horizontally.
> 
> The system has left my house and is now with the person who owns it, but I had it for two days while it was up and running.
> 
> Honestly, I'm surprised you guys haven't thought about mounting them horizontally! I made the sure that the inlet side was on the bottom, so that coolant could evaporate down to almost half the height when sideways before the pump starts sucking in air. It works perfectly. Of course I had to fill it upright, but then once the top was sealed, back to being horizontal it went!
> 
> Edit: Here are some photos of the Tube and Pro IV
> 
> [*img]http://i.imgur.com/HcdJWc2.jpg[/img]
> 
> [*img]http://i.imgur.com/phwMIso.jpg[/img]


Please excuse me while I change my pants! Those pics are... whoa dude! Seriously nsfw


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Edit: Here are some photos of the Tube and Pro IV
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What fittings are those? They look like Monsoon EV2.

Edit: to answer my own question ... yes they are. See comment in vid posted below.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Although both original content creators /authors are present here, I would like to take the chance to present two unique items to you today.

First, I would like to draw your attention to a review. @geggeg did what a lot of people ask for: a comparative testing of a wide range of GPU water blocks. His review is fair, balanced, with a well thought out methodology, and although there is no affiliation whatsoever, we keep getting great grades from him. His review of our Heatkiller IV water block is the second in this series, and I'm genuinely looking forward to reading all of them.

Next up, I am happy to present a great new young YouTuber to you. As some of you know, our very own @lifeisshort117 started his new business http://liquid.haus last month and has his first client build up on the channel. Now, we all saw the teaser pics, but I hope that John will forgive me that I am the first to post the actual corresponding video:





WATERCOOL feels very honored today, and we want to thank and congratulate both John and Varun for their great content!


----------



## Bart

Jakob: you forgot to post a link to the actual review (geggeg's that is).







Might wanna edit that real quick.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Jakob: you forgot to post a link to the actual review (geggeg's that is).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might wanna edit that real quick.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> [...]His review of our Heatkiller IV water block is the second in this series, and I'm genuinely looking forward to reading all of them.[...]


Doesn't hurt to highlight this a second time


----------



## Bart

Oh crap Jakob, my bad! I misread that link and mistook it for a sales link. I must learn to slow down and READ! DOH!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Although both original content creators /authors are present here, I would like to take the chance to present two unique items to you today.
> 
> First, I would like to draw your attention to a review. @geggeg did what a lot of people ask for: a comparative testing of a wide range of GPU water blocks. His review is fair, balanced, with a well thought out methodology, and although there is no affiliation whatsoever, we keep getting great grades from him. His review of our Heatkiller IV water block is the second in this series, and I'm genuinely looking forward to reading all of them.
> 
> WATERCOOL feels very honored today, and we want to thank and congratulate both John and Varun for their great content!


Thanks for the share. It's actually the third in the series, with one on TechPowerUp already as well (Phanteks Glacier). There will be two more there, and the rest all on my website in the days to come.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks for the share. It's actually the third in the series, with one on TechPowerUp already as well (Phanteks Glacier). There will be two more there, and the rest all on my website in the days to come.


Wooohooooo, finally get to see what you've been up to the past while. Been missing the update emails from your site the past few weeks ^_^


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Wooohooooo, finally get to see what you've been up to the past while. Been missing the update emails from your site the past few weeks ^_^


I was abroad for well over a month, and then all the reviews on TPU also happened


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Next up, I am happy to present a great new young YouTuber to you. As some of you know, our very own @lifeisshort117 started his new business http://liquid.haus last month and has his first client build up on the channel. Now, we all saw the teaser pics, but I hope that John will forgive me that I am the first to post the actual corresponding video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WATERCOOL feels very honored today, and we want to thank and congratulate both John and Varun for their great content!


Of course I will forgive you!









Thanks for the post, Jakob. I've been so busy trying to round up some more content for more videos. It's a little funny that all my old co-workers from Xidax keep coming to me, wanting to have their systems rebuilt lol. But I am definitely okay with that. Brandon, the guy whose system I built in this last video, is the sales director of Xidax. He's now trying to get me back with the company which would be nice seeing as I've been unemployed since January LOL.

But anyway, I appreciate the share brother! It's quite literally the easiest thing for me to keep choosing your products to use in my builds so there will be plenty more videos and systems with Heatkiller inside of them


----------



## Madmaxneo

I finally got my AIO in today for my heatkiller IV Pro gpu block so I am about to install it onto my GPU.

Before I do so is there any limitation on what thermal paste I can use?

I got the black and nickel waterblock and plan on using some thermal grizzly. I also have some arctic silver 5 along with a few other not so well known TIMs,


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I finally got my AIO in today for my heatkiller IV Pro gpu block so I am about to install it onto my GPU.
> 
> Before I do so is there any limitation on what thermal paste I can use?
> 
> I got the black and nickel waterblock and plan on using some thermal grizzly. I also have some arctic silver 5 along with a few other not so well known TIMs,


Grizzly Kryonaut is best you can use. GELID is also very good.


----------



## paskowitz

Among the "cheap" TIMs I like Noctua NT-H1 but yeah Grizzly is pretty damn good.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Grizzly Kryonaut is best you can use. GELID is also very good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Among the "cheap" TIMs I like Noctua NT-H1 but yeah Grizzly is pretty damn good.


Leak testing now. I realized a few things putting this together so far:
I forgot to get the special adapters for the swiftech AIO so I could use the fittings I already have. I had to use the "O" clamp type they already have on the unit. So far they work good. You can't see them so I'll probably just leave them be.
I need another SATA power cable. I had to take the one off the OC panel for my board. I haven't really used it in awhile so not a big deal right now.
The backplate from V1Tech uses magnets to attach to the graphics card and the screws that came with the Heatkiller waterblock are not magnetic... so I gotta figure something out.......
The annoying white LED light on the swiftech AIO is powered by SATA so it remains on for now.
The SATA connection for pump is only for PWM signals, so there are only two connections. The Noctua PWM splitter cables have only one full PWM connection (all 4 pins) and the other one is only 3 pins but is missing one of the two that the pump PWM cable has.....
I "suck again" at cable management!


----------



## Scars Unseen

Does Watercool ship to APO addresses? I tried to order earlier, but didn't see the option when I was setting up shipping, and everywhere else I've checked is out of the GTX 1080TI water blocks at the moment.


----------



## equilni

Installed the 1080/1070 Acetal water block on my FE 1070 last night.



and yes I need a new reservoir...


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Jakob any plans for a Watercool and or Heatkiller case badge?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Ooooh, if so, please let the badge be a nice metal one!

Also, on the topics of requests, any word if there will be Heatkiller v4 blocks for the upcoming Naples and/or Threadkiller stuff from AMD, or is it too soon to say?


----------



## Phobicsq

Very nice video about the watercool res and cpu block. Are the tube tops for the watercool res the same size for all 3 versions? I see that there is a 100, 150, and 200 top but the measurements look the same.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob any plans for a Watercool and or Heatkiller case badge?


THIS. would gladly use these.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Does Watercool ship to APO addresses? I tried to order earlier, but didn't see the option when I was setting up shipping, and everywhere else I've checked is out of the GTX 1080TI water blocks at the moment.


That's actually the first time in 16 years of business that this question came up. It was a tough nut (partly because none of us germans knew initially what APO stands for







), but we checked back with FedEx, and they said that it's not a problem. You might, however, have to pay customs and/or taxes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob any plans for a Watercool and or Heatkiller case badge?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> THIS. would gladly use these.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Ooooh, if so, please let the badge be a nice metal one!
> 
> Also, on the topics of requests, any word if there will be Heatkiller v4 blocks for the upcoming Naples and/or Threadkiller stuff from AMD, or is it too soon to say?


Re badge: Not yet. But nice idea of you guys. We'll see if we can design something nice.

Re Naples / Threadkiller: we are undecided as of yet. But then again, AMD teasered that Naples will have a TDP of AT LEAST 200W - there is no scenario to use a watercooling setup if not this one! So, we will look into it and try to get some details from our AMD contacts. Chances are very high that we will support those CPU layouts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> Very nice video about the watercool res and cpu block. Are the tube tops for the watercool res the same size for all 3 versions? I see that there is a 100, 150, and 200 top but the measurements look the same.


The top itself is the same for all three versions. They only differ in the length of the the standpipe.


----------



## BoredErica

Okay this is probably a dumb question, but what size allen key do I need for those? The one included is super skinny, intended for the small screws.

Is it just 1/4 inch?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> Okay this is probably a dumb question, but what size allen key do I need for those? The one included is super skinny, intended for the small screws.
> 
> Is it just 1/4 inch?


It's a M4


----------



## Scars Unseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That's actually the first time in 16 years of business that this question came up. It was a tough nut (partly because none of us germans knew initially what APO stands for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but we checked back with FedEx, and they said that it's not a problem. You might, however, have to pay customs and/or taxes.


No problem there, and thanks for the reply. So how would you recommend approaching an order since the website doesn't allow me to enter the correct information in directly?


----------



## Phobicsq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That's actually the first time in 16 years of business that this question came up. It was a tough nut (partly because none of us germans knew initially what APO stands for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but we checked back with FedEx, and they said that it's not a problem. You might, however, have to pay customs and/or taxes.
> 
> Re badge: Not yet. But nice idea of you guys. We'll see if we can design something nice.
> 
> Re Naples / Threadkiller: we are undecided as of yet. But then again, AMD teasered that Naples will have a TDP of AT LEAST 200W - there is no scenario to use a watercooling setup if not this one! So, we will look into it and try to get some details from our AMD contacts. Chances are very high that we will support those CPU layouts.
> The top itself is the same for all three versions. They only differ in the length of the the standpipe.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## Madmaxneo

I figured I would share some pics of the process and then the final look of installing the watercool block on my GPU.
Removing and installing the waterblock:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










And a couple of after shots with the Hue+ on


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Note that I got the two shots when blue was up and then red, but I also have my UV lights around the window on.

I still need to install more UV lights and figure out how to get a decent backplate since this V1tech one that I ordered isn't going to work. It is magnetic and the screws for the watercool block are not magnetic.

EDIT: @Watercool-Jakob What type and size screws are they that come with the Heatkiller IV Pro block for the GTX 1070? I may be able to get some of the exact kind but are also magnetic.....


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Re badge: Not yet. But nice idea of you guys. We'll see if we can design something nice.
> 
> Re Naples / Threadkiller: we are undecided as of yet. But then again, AMD teasered that Naples will have a TDP of AT LEAST 200W - there is no scenario to use a watercooling setup if not this one! So, we will look into it and try to get some details from our AMD contacts. Chances are very high that we will support those CPU layouts.
> The top itself is the same for all three versions. They only differ in the length of the the standpipe.


Definitely glad to hear regarding the badge... And oh yeah, hearing at least 200W TDP has me wondering what kinds of air coolers would even dare try to handle such (aka it's a very good reason to watercool)... I'm just hoping that a MO-RA3 can handle at least one Threadkiller plus three RX 480/580's... Doubly so if Naples is "reasonably" priced because I've always wanted an overkill 2P setup for the audio rig (and BOINC, and [email protected], etc)...


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pm2Ft74Pj

Some dye and glass tubing, still using my Anthracite version at the moment though.


----------



## Phobicsq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That's actually the first time in 16 years of business that this question came up. It was a tough nut (partly because none of us germans knew initially what APO stands for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but we checked back with FedEx, and they said that it's not a problem. You might, however, have to pay customs and/or taxes.
> 
> Re badge: Not yet. But nice idea of you guys. We'll see if we can design something nice.
> 
> Re Naples / Threadkiller: we are undecided as of yet. But then again, AMD teasered that Naples will have a TDP of AT LEAST 200W - there is no scenario to use a watercooling setup if not this one! So, we will look into it and try to get some details from our AMD contacts. Chances are very high that we will support those CPU layouts.
> The top itself is the same for all three versions. They only differ in the length of the the standpipe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I figured I would share some pics of the process and then the final look of installing the watercool block on my GPU.
> Removing and installing the waterblock:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of after shots with the Hue+ on
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I got the two shots when blue was up and then red, but I also have my UV lights around the window on.
> 
> I still need to install more UV lights and figure out how to get a decent backplate since this V1tech one that I ordered isn't going to work. It is magnetic and the screws for the watercool block are not magnetic.
> 
> EDIT: @Watercool-Jakob What type and size screws are they that come with the Heatkiller IV Pro block for the GTX 1070? I may be able to get some of the exact kind but are also magnetic.....


Looks great!!!! I'm still waiting for these blocks to get in stock at frozencpu, performance, or mmm as it's holding up my upgrade build.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> No problem there, and thanks for the reply. So how would you recommend approaching an order since the website doesn't allow me to enter the correct information in directly?




This should be the way the form looks for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I still need to install more UV lights and figure out how to get a decent backplate since this V1tech one that I ordered isn't going to work. It is magnetic and the screws for the watercool block are not magnetic.
> 
> EDIT: @Watercool-Jakob What type and size screws are they that come with the Heatkiller IV Pro block for the GTX 1070? I may be able to get some of the exact kind but are also magnetic.....


All screw sizes are specified in the manual.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> All screw sizes are specified in the manual.


I figured that, after I posted the question....lol.
Edit: If I find screws that will work would it be fine just to remove the ones on the card now and replace them with the magnetic ones, or do I really need to take the waterblock off and reapply some thermal paste?


----------



## Scars Unseen

Ah, now I'm conflicted. Do I pull the trigger now and order the backplate later or do I wait for it to come back in stock? My case came in today, so all I'm waiting on now are the water cooling parts...


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Ah, now I'm conflicted. Do I pull the trigger now and order the backplate later or do I wait for it to come back in stock? My case came in today, so all I'm waiting on now are the water cooling parts...


i was in the same position but i just ordered the block anyways. I'm too afraid of the block selling out while i wait for a backplate. Several us retailers carry the backplate so hopefully they'll get a piece of the next ones manufactured.


----------



## Scars Unseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> i was in the same position but i just ordered the block anyways. I'm too afraid of the block selling out while i wait for a backplate. Several us retailers carry the backplate so hopefully they'll get a piece of the next ones manufactured.


That's a good point. Of the two, I'd rather be waiting on the backplate than the water block.

@Watercool-Jakob I tried to order as you suggested, but it's rejecting the Postcode as invalid when I add AP to it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Edit: If I find screws that will work would it be fine just to remove the ones on the card now and replace them with the magnetic ones, or do I really need to take the waterblock off and reapply some thermal paste?


If you only replace one screw at a time, I think this should work just fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Ah, now I'm conflicted. Do I pull the trigger now and order the backplate later or do I wait for it to come back in stock? My case came in today, so all I'm waiting on now are the water cooling parts...


Backplates should be back in stock on Monday









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob I tried to order as you suggested, but it's rejecting the Postcode as invalid when I add AP to it.


Arg, our Shop Script is... well. Highranking on the "things to upgrade in the near future" - list.

Put the AP in the City line. "APO - AP" should work.


----------



## Scars Unseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Backplates should be back in stock on Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arg, our Shop Script is... well. Highranking on the "things to upgrade in the near future" - list.
> 
> Put the AP in the City line. "APO - AP" should work.


Thanks alot. Looks like I'll be ordering Monday then!


----------



## Bart

HeatKiller IV for AM4:


http://imgur.com/WZrbVcy





http://imgur.com/STNxOx9



Thanks to Jakob for getting me the correct AM4 mounts after AM3 ones got shipped by accident.







Great customer service!







Nice timing too, right before a long weekend.







Ryzen 1700 is chilling at under 50C under load during a mild OC (3.7Ghz @ 1.35v).


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> HeatKiller IV for AM4:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/WZrbVcy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/STNxOx9
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to Jakob for getting me the correct AM4 mounts after AM3 ones got shipped by accident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great customer service!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice timing too, right before a long weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ryzen 1700 is chilling at under 50C under load during a mild OC (3.7Ghz @ 1.35v).


Great to see that it all worked out!


----------



## Streetdragon

when vega hits the market, how long will it take to release a waterblock for the reference modell? 1 month?


----------



## LiquidHaus

those AM4 brackets look good.

that reminds me...

https://www.techpowerup.com/233358/amd-ryzen-9-series-threadripper-cpu-socket-detailed

let's get a mounting kit for that SP3r2









I so badly want to get their rumored 1977X 14 Core if that's the route that's actually taken when these things come out.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> those AM4 brackets look good.
> 
> that reminds me...
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/233358/amd-ryzen-9-series-threadripper-cpu-socket-detailed
> 
> let's get a mounting kit for that SP3r2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so badly want to get their rumored 1977X 14 Core if that's the route that's actually taken when these things come out.


If Intels 10 core is almost 2 grand, I can only imagine what 14 cores will cost.


----------



## Scars Unseen

@Watercool-Jakob Okay, so I was able to place the _order,_ but apparently my Paypal payment didn't process because of incomplete shipping address info. How do I go about paying after the fact? My order number is 6562.


----------



## ruffhi

The HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titan X (Pascal) (part #16063) is back in stock at watercool's de site.

But ... please don't flood them with orders as I need them to ship a bunch cheaply to the (closer to me) sites here in the US. Then I can get one without doubling the price just for shipping







.


----------



## Scars Unseen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titan X (Pascal) (part #16063) is back in stock at watercool's de site.
> 
> But ... please don't flood them with orders as I need them to ship a bunch cheaply to the (closer to me) sites here in the US. Then I can get one without doubling the price just for shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, I ordered one from their site yesterday. Fortunately, the shipping cost didn't sting quite as bad since I was also ordering water blocks for both my CPU and GPU. I would have ordered a res at the same time, but I'm not sure what size I'll be using yet.


----------



## PachAz

I just got my heatkiller mosfet blocks, the shipping was pretty fast with fedex. Some pictures:







I always like to watercool the motherboards to increase the complexity of the loop and I am glad WC makes a kit for my motherboard.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@Watercool-Jakob I've received my block and it looks incredible! Can't wait to get it installed! any way you can tell me if Performance-pcs.com in the US will be getting more of your 1080/1070/Titanx backplates?
edit: oh and I know another fella is wondering if they're getting more reservoirs @Emissary of Pain


----------



## Madmaxneo

^ ^ What he asked!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> when vega hits the market, how long will it take to release a waterblock for the reference modell? 1 month?


More or less. We are in close contact to AMD, so depending on when they send us a full layout, we can start designing the new block.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> those AM4 brackets look good.
> 
> that reminds me...
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/233358/amd-ryzen-9-series-threadripper-cpu-socket-detailed
> 
> let's get a mounting kit for that SP3r2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so badly want to get their rumored 1977X 14 Core if that's the route that's actually taken when these things come out.


This really looks interesting!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PachAz*
> 
> I just got my heatkiller mosfet blocks, the shipping was pretty fast with fedex. Some pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always like to watercool the motherboards to increase the complexity of the loop and I am glad WC makes a kit for my motherboard.


Thanks for sharing. Although I can't resist saying that we also make quite some kits for your CPU








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titan X (Pascal) (part #16063) is back in stock at watercool's de site.
> 
> But ... please don't flood them with orders as I need them to ship a bunch cheaply to the (closer to me) sites here in the US. Then I can get one without doubling the price just for shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob I've received my block and it looks incredible! Can't wait to get it installed! any way you can tell me if Performance-pcs.com in the US will be getting more of your 1080/1070/Titanx backplates?
> edit: oh and I know another fella is wondering if they're getting more reservoirs @Emissary of Pain


Those backplates have been our Achilles heel in the last couple of months. We already increased their priority in our manufacturing schedule, but it seems that they become more popular every week!!! We sincerely hope to ship some over the Atlantic very soon!


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Although I can't resist saying that we also make quite some kits for your CPU


Yes indeed, for example:


http://imgur.com/n6kzuQ2





http://imgur.com/KjDyfM0


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for sharing. Although I can't resist saying that we also make quite some kits for your CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


If I ever build a new system in the future, I promise to get MB block, CPU block and GPU block from Heatkiller







. Unless you want to send a free sample for marketing purpose hihi


----------



## Madmaxneo

Oh, I am looking at the awesome watercool waterblock set for my MB. I already have the XPSC set (not connected) but the Watercool ones seem to cover more. But if I were to ever go the route of watercooling the MB I will most definitely need some QDC's, and those are a real pain to search through as I also don't have any experience with QDC's. So I am asking this great community for some suggestions.
Here is my criteria:
1. This is for 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing.
2. Black Chrome please (or at least something dark)
3. Compression fittings are much, much preferred. I already have some XPSC black chrome compression fittings in my loop and they look great! Though barbed may work as long as they look good.
4. Inexpensive as I will probably need at least 4 and do not want to spend $80 on just QDC's.


----------



## muzammil84

Recently changed things around a bit and i thought i'd share. I love how this coolant colour looks in my Heatkiller. I think i'm never gonna change a cpu block again, love it more and more everyday.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Recently changed things around a bit and i thought i'd share. I love how this coolant colour looks in my Heatkiller. I think i'm never gonna change a cpu block again, love it more and more everyday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean!
Can you share what you have in your system along with your case and mods?


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Recently changed things around a bit and i thought i'd share. I love how this coolant colour looks in my Heatkiller. I think i'm never gonna change a cpu block again, love it more and more everyday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!


Beautiful!









Nice job with the tubing runs.

That looks like the Acrylic "Clean" version.
I've been leery about acrylic tops with some other brands, but imo Watercool uses a very thick, high-grade acrylic for their blocks.

Edit:
The AMD Ryzen version also looks great, as in Bart's lovely build.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Although I can't resist saying that we also make quite some kits for your CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes indeed, for example:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/n6kzuQ2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KjDyfM0
Click to expand...


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nice and clean!
> Can you share what you have in your system along with your case and mods?


my system is nothing too special tbh, i'm not a hardcore gamer. it's only 6700k with gtx 1070, Asus z170 Sabertooth mark 1 which I painted white and Silverstone FT02 case which is quite modded too . here are some pics


----------



## Bart

muzammil84: beautiful job man, I wish I had your modding skills!!!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Oh, I see what you did now....lol, the case is face down.

I like what you did with it though.


----------



## 0ldChicken

So worth the wait!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/po8RA480j


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So worth the wait


Wow that looks Great!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*


Watercool should hire you to do some shots for their site. Your pics are always great.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Wow that looks Great!!
> Watercool should hire you to do some shots for their site. Your pics are always great.


Thanks very much!.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/po8RA480j


Nice shot. What tubing is that?


----------



## khemist

Bitspower Nickel/Brass.


----------



## Luckbad

Is the CPU block backplate necessary? Performance PCs is out of them right now.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> Is the CPU block backplate necessary? Performance PCs is out of them right now.


Not for the Heatkiller IV, it just makes the job easier and more consistent.


----------



## Scars Unseen

Does anyone know how long Watercool usually takes to process orders? Mine's been sitting on "viewed" for the last 5 days. This isn't a complaint, mind you(I'm waiting for other parts as well). I just don't know what Watercool's normal pace on these things is.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> Is the CPU block backplate necessary? Performance PCs is out of them right now.


Yes you cannot mount the block without the backplate, there is nothing for the block to hold onto without the backplate. I commented in your original thread about other sites to check for stock as well.


----------



## Luckbad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Yes you cannot mount the block without the backplate, there is nothing for the block to hold onto without the backplate. I commented in your original thread about other sites to check for stock as well.


Thanks. Looks like only Watercool.de actually has stock right now.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Yes you cannot mount the block without the backplate, there is nothing for the block to hold onto without the backplate. I commented in your original thread about other sites to check for stock as well.


yes you can.Heatkiller is supplied with a set of mounting screws, no backplate is required for successful block installation.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> yes you can.Heatkiller is supplied with a set of mounting screws, no backplate is required for successful block installation.


I'm sorry you're right I always thought you needed the backplate for the 1151 platform, but I just checked the PDF and there is mounting screws to accomodate the block without a backplate. Sorry my mistake.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oh, I am looking at the awesome watercool waterblock set for my MB. I already have the XPSC set (not connected) but the Watercool ones seem to cover more. But if I were to ever go the route of watercooling the MB I will most definitely need some QDC's, and those are a real pain to search through as I also don't have any experience with QDC's. So I am asking this great community for some suggestions.
> Here is my criteria:
> 1. This is for 3/8 ID 5/8 OD tubing.
> 2. Black Chrome please (or at least something dark)
> 3. Compression fittings are much, much preferred. I already have some XPSC black chrome compression fittings in my loop and they look great! Though barbed may work as long as they look good.
> 4. Inexpensive as I will probably need at least 4 and do not want to spend $80 on just QDC's.


Koolance QD3 are smply the best QDCs on the market. Period.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Recently changed things around a bit and i thought i'd share. I love how this coolant colour looks in my Heatkiller. I think i'm never gonna change a cpu block again, love it more and more everyday.


Thanks for those great pics, I enjoy them very much









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So worth the wait!


Oh, this looks sexy! I'm trying to convince Mr BossMan to offer the back/copper version as a regular block! Send me pics when it's installed in the loop, I'd love to see more of it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/po8RA480j


Thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> Is the CPU block backplate necessary? Performance PCs is out of them right now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I'm sorry you're right I always thought you needed the backplate for the 1151 platform, but I just checked the PDF and there is mounting screws to accomodate the block without a backplate. Sorry my mistake.


That's correct. If the backplate would be necessary, we would include it in the scope of delivery of the block itself, of course









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Does anyone know how long Watercool usually takes to process orders? Mine's been sitting on "viewed" for the last 5 days. This isn't a complaint, mind you(I'm waiting for other parts as well). I just don't know what Watercool's normal pace on these things is.


Hm. That seems weird. Can you please send me a PM with your order number, then I'll look into it.


----------



## VSG

Seconding Koolance QD3 for quick disconnects


----------



## absmodding

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/po8RA480j


Excellent example of colors and photography.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> So worth the wait!


Okay.... That kind of sexyness would get me to actually not only want the "windowed" blocks, but also find a way to show them off as best as I could...!! Man that's gorgeous!


----------



## 0ldChicken

Glad you guys dig the block as much as I do! I just HAVE to install it vertically, any other orientation would be a crime IMO. I really need to start a build log


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> Is the CPU block backplate necessary? Performance PCs is out of them right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Not for the Heatkiller IV, it just makes the job easier and more consistent.
Click to expand...

It does help to distribute the mounting pressure for the block.

As you, er, VSG, explained very well, in this excellent review:
http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/03/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-cpu-waterblock/


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Koolance QD3 are smply the best QDCs on the market. Period.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seconding Koolance QD3 for quick disconnects


Thanks! But they would be about $80 for a set of 4...so it may be awhile.

The holiday season at the end of the year I will be looking to either build another PC (X99 or Xeon dual chip) or just upgrade this aging X79 I have (thinking 4960x and the next nvidia card), but only time will tell what I do. Either way I go I want to go the route of making the case look sweet with some minor mods and paint or vinyl. If the plastidip works as well on my car (black 300) as it did a friends then I may even go that route instead of regular paint....lol


----------



## 0ldChicken

I wasn't going to share anymore till it's finished but it looks too good on the bench!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Koolance QD3 are smply the best QDCs on the market. Period.


What about the AlphaCool QDC? The reviews I read put them ahead of Koolance. I was thinking of getting some QDC until I read I couldn't have any QDC attached to my flow senor if I wanted proper readings.


----------



## Bart

I have no knowledge on the Alphacool fittings, but +3 (or 4?) on the Koolance QD3's, since I used those before. Never had a leak, they connect / disconnect beautifully, etc. But I must say, once you get a bit more experience with water cooling, you come to realize you don't need to waste money on those things. You just need to implement a good drainage system, and get comfortable draining / refilling your loop. It's not as much work as it seems, and it makes QDCs pretty much a waste of $$$$, unless you're using some external rads / external custom res or something like that.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What about the AlphaCool QDC? The reviews I read put them ahead of Koolance. I was thinking of getting some QDC until I read I couldn't have any QDC attached to my flow senor if I wanted proper readings.


Which reviews? All I can speak for are my own, and overall I would (and have) pay my own money for the Koolance QD3s.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Which reviews? All I can speak for are my own, and overall I would (and have) pay my own money for the Koolance QD3s.


It's been awhile not 100% which ones I was reading. I'm just going by what I remember reading.


----------



## Luckbad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seconding Koolance QD3 for quick disconnects


@Watercool-Jakob

How do the QDCs actually work? Can they go where you'd normally have a compression fitting, or are they only in-line in the tubing?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What about the AlphaCool QDC? The reviews I read put them ahead of Koolance. I was thinking of getting some QDC until I read I couldn't have any QDC attached to my flow senor if I wanted proper readings.


I'm using some Alphacool dqc. They are ok, they do their job plus they have a screwing nut to secure the connection. really good price too(compared to others).


----------



## OCDev

Soooo. I know I'm late to the party but is this club still taking new members?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What about the AlphaCool QDC? The reviews I read put them ahead of Koolance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Which reviews? All I can speak for are my own, and overall I would (and have) pay my own money for the Koolance QD3s.


As with every product from Alphacool, there are obvious reasons why their products are way cheaper than those of their competitors. You have to decide for yourself where on the scale cheap<--->quality you want to place yourself








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> How do the QDCs actually work? Can they go where you'd normally have a compression fitting, or are they only in-line in the tubing?


There are disconnects that have a simple G1/4 port, so you can screw in any fitting in any size you like. Others come with compression fittings installed.

we don't manufacture own QDC, so I can't really go into details about how they work - I simply don't know it :>

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> Soooo. I know I'm late to the party but is this club still taking new members?


We definitely do. Come in, make yourself comfortable, and have a beer. Or a cuppa tea, if that's more your thing


----------



## VSG

There is a male plunger and a female body:



When you push the male plunger half in, it pushes a smaller part inwards creating a circular opening around the two through which the coolant passes:





These are the two disassembled for a closer look inside:


----------



## Phobicsq

Is there any idea on when stock for the heatkiller iv 1080ti/titan blocks will hit vendors?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey folks,
I have a general problem/question:
You people upload some beautiful pictures here in this thread, which I am very thankful for. I appreciate seeing our products in use rather than in shelf, and a lot of your pictures have quite some aesthetic/artistic value. Now, I also run our Twitter and instagram accounts (see signature for links), and I would love to reuse and share many of those pics in this thread to boost the attractiveness of those channels. Up until now, I went and asked each uploader for their individual consent for each individual picture. This is a rather long and complicated process, so I'd like your 2 cents on the following issue:

Would you feel your rights to your pictures feel violated if I'd reupload them to Twitter/instagram while mentioning your forum-nick in the description without asking for explicit permission? Or would you rather feel honored, and the credit "Originally posted by XY on OCN" would be sufficient to you?

This is really just seeing the general "common sense" within this community. I'm not seeking the exact legal counseling here


----------



## Scars Unseen

Personally, I can't see why anyone here would take offense since this entire thread's purpose is to display our support for and interest in the Heatkiller line of products.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I have a general problem/question:
> You people upload some beautiful pictures here in this thread, which I am very thankful for. I appreciate seeing our products in use rather than in shelf, and a lot of your pictures have quite some aesthetic/artistic value. Now, I also run our Twitter and instagram accounts (see signature for links), and I would love to reuse and share many of those pics in this thread to boost the attractiveness of those channels. Up until now, I went and asked each uploader for their individual consent for each individual picture. This is a rather long and complicated process, so I'd like your 2 cents on the following issue:
> 
> Would you feel your rights to your pictures feel violated if I'd reupload them to Twitter/instagram while mentioning your forum-nick in the description without asking for explicit permission? Or would you rather feel honored, and the credit "Originally posted by XY on OCN" would be sufficient to you?
> 
> This is really just seeing the general "common sense" within this community. I'm not seeking the exact legal counseling here


not that my rig would be any good for showing but I wouldn't mind at all. This is what we all do here so why not on some social media/other services?


----------



## VSG

I don't mind, just use VSG instead


----------



## Newtocooling

No trouble at all!


----------



## Newtocooling

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is a male plunger and a female body:
> 
> 
> 
> When you push the male plunger half in, it pushes a smaller part inwards creating a circular opening around the two through which the coolant passes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are the two disassembled for a closer look inside:






In your opionin who makes the best QDC? I have been using Bitspower on a test bench, but it seems most prefer the Koolance brand for QDC.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> 
> In your opionin who makes the best QDC? I have been using Bitspower on a test bench, but it seems most prefer the Koolance brand for QDC.


I haven't used the Bitspower ones so I can't tell. I have experience only with Koolance, Alphacool, EK/CPC, and Swiftech.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I haven't used the Bitspower ones so I can't tell. I have experience only with Koolance, Alphacool, EK/CPC, and Swiftech.


Is Koolancde the one to go with, or would you choose one of the other brands? Just for ease of use and least amount of dripping I'm referring to to. Looks don't mater since I only use them on my test bench. And I don't mean to put you on the spot, if you'd rather not answer I totally understand.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Is Koolancde the one to go with, or would you choose one of the other brands? Just for ease of use and least amount of dripping I'm referring to to. Looks don't mater since I only use them on my test bench. And I don't mean to put you on the spot, if you'd rather not answer I totally understand.


As I said, out of the four brands I have tried I would go with the Koolance QD3.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As I said, out of the four brands I have tried I would go with the Koolance QD3.


Opps sorry didn't see the earlier post. Thanks for the reply


----------



## Wally West

Yeah Jakob, it's all right with me, take all the picture you want from me


----------



## PachAz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I have a general problem/question:
> You people upload some beautiful pictures here in this thread, which I am very thankful for. I appreciate seeing our products in use rather than in shelf, and a lot of your pictures have quite some aesthetic/artistic value. Now, I also run our Twitter and instagram accounts (see signature for links), and I would love to reuse and share many of those pics in this thread to boost the attractiveness of those channels. Up until now, I went and asked each uploader for their individual consent for each individual picture. This is a rather long and complicated process, so I'd like your 2 cents on the following issue:
> 
> Would you feel your rights to your pictures feel violated if I'd reupload them to Twitter/instagram while mentioning your forum-nick in the description without asking for explicit permission? Or would you rather feel honored, and the credit "Originally posted by XY on OCN" would be sufficient to you?
> 
> This is really just seeing the general "common sense" within this community. I'm not seeking the exact legal counseling here


This could be a way to get the name out there and boost sales. Having 2-3 pictures of the specific Watercool part and the full system might motivate people to consume because they want to get the same experiance as shown on the pictures. In marketing it is spoken about what people need and what they want, and a few pictures of real life systems might trigger the "want" feeling that ultimatley will result in a purchase. Real life pictures on systems tell alot more than just plain pictures of the parts itself, at least that is what I feel. If it werent for other peoples builds I wouldn't have upgraded my system to this extent and I think others feel the same. It would also be good with a general description of the system so the viewers can see in what applications the parts are used etc.


----------



## eucalyptus

When you can use your new block for a selfie







Truly an amazing block! Just the fact that's it's MADE IN Germany and not China as every other brand makes me want this block over any other any day









Again Jakob, thank you!




It seems a I made a mistake of assuming I could use my stock backplate, didn't work







So how have you guys solved this matter?

I will probably just make my own backplate


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I have a general problem/question:
> You people upload some beautiful pictures here in this thread, which I am very thankful for. I appreciate seeing our products in use rather than in shelf, and a lot of your pictures have quite some aesthetic/artistic value. Now, I also run our Twitter and instagram accounts (see signature for links), and I would love to reuse and share many of those pics in this thread to boost the attractiveness of those channels. Up until now, I went and asked each uploader for their individual consent for each individual picture. This is a rather long and complicated process, so I'd like your 2 cents on the following issue:
> 
> Would you feel your rights to your pictures feel violated if I'd reupload them to Twitter/instagram while mentioning your forum-nick in the description without asking for explicit permission? Or would you rather feel honored, and the credit "Originally posted by XY on OCN" would be sufficient to you?
> 
> This is really just seeing the general "common sense" within this community. I'm not seeking the exact legal counseling here


I can't speak for anyone else but I'd be honored and glad to have anything shared with others considering your products. As far as credit due, using "XY from OCN" is sufficient in my opinion especially for pictures we've posted on this Heatkiller thread. Perhaps a link to an individual's build-log along with the username if the photo's are taken from there? I know some folks would appreciate the views. I wouldn't say you need to go to extra work to find out if they have a log for that build or anything, but if they've shared a link with the photo then it might be nice to pass that along as well.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> Soooo. I know I'm late to the party but is this club still taking new members?


There is never such a thing as late comers to this party. Dusk til dawn and morning til night, this party never stops!


----------



## OCDev

Ha ha! Right on







I'm rocking the heatkiller IV and the pump top. I didn't realize they had a reservoir too or I would have snagged one of those also. Oh well, I'll fix that when I tear everything down for maintenance next winter.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I have a general problem/question:
> You people upload some beautiful pictures here in this thread, which I am very thankful for. I appreciate seeing our products in use rather than in shelf, and a lot of your pictures have quite some aesthetic/artistic value. Now, I also run our Twitter and instagram accounts (see signature for links), and I would love to reuse and share many of those pics in this thread to boost the attractiveness of those channels. Up until now, I went and asked each uploader for their individual consent for each individual picture. This is a rather long and complicated process, so I'd like your 2 cents on the following issue:
> 
> Would you feel your rights to your pictures feel violated if I'd reupload them to Twitter/instagram while mentioning your forum-nick in the description without asking for explicit permission? Or would you rather feel honored, and the credit "Originally posted by XY on OCN" would be sufficient to you?
> 
> This is really just seeing the general "common sense" within this community. I'm not seeking the exact legal counseling here


So, the overall consensus seems to be that everyone is fine with me re-using pictures that have been publically posted in this thread as long as a mention of the original author is included. This makes me very happy, and I started to take adevatage with no shame








If anyone shopuld ever feel his rights violated or feel misrepresented, please contact me and I'll delete the posts in question! ANd thanks for your support and help in building those channels, it is highly appreciated








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> It seems a I made a mistake of assuming I could use my stock backplate, didn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So how have you guys solved this matter?
> 
> I will probably just make my own backplate


That's what we did: making our own backplate








But I'm super curious to see what you will come up with!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> Ha ha! Right on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm rocking the heatkiller IV and the pump top. I didn't realize they had a reservoir too or I would have snagged one of those also. Oh well, I'll fix that when I tear everything down for maintenance next winter.


Whoa, that looks like some pump overhead. I'm sure you will never have any flow rate problems







Welcome to the party


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I have a general problem/question:
> You people upload some beautiful pictures here in this thread, which I am very thankful for. I appreciate seeing our products in use rather than in shelf, and a lot of your pictures have quite some aesthetic/artistic value. Now, I also run our Twitter and instagram accounts (see signature for links), and I would love to reuse and share many of those pics in this thread to boost the attractiveness of those channels. Up until now, I went and asked each uploader for their individual consent for each individual picture. This is a rather long and complicated process, so I'd like your 2 cents on the following issue:
> 
> Would you feel your rights to your pictures feel violated if I'd reupload them to Twitter/instagram while mentioning your forum-nick in the description without asking for explicit permission? Or would you rather feel honored, and the credit "Originally posted by XY on OCN" would be sufficient to you?
> 
> This is really just seeing the general "common sense" within this community. I'm not seeking the exact legal counseling here


Fine by me.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> Ha ha! Right on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm rocking the heatkiller IV and the pump top. I didn't realize they had a reservoir too or I would have snagged one of those also. Oh well, I'll fix that when I tear everything down for maintenance next winter.


You sure you have enough pumps?

I recall someone once saying you don't want to many pumps in a loop. Since you don't want the coolant to exit to quickly before giving your rads/fans enough time to cool down the liquid inside your rads.


----------



## OCDev

Not so sure about that. With the fans on low it runs IBT at 57. It looks like getting the water through the blocks quickly is more important than time in the radiators.


----------



## atomicus

You categorically 100% do not need multiple pumps in that loop lol! I guarantee your temps would be pretty much the same with just one.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You sure you have enough pumps?
> 
> I recall someone once saying you don't want to many pumps in a loop. Since you don't want the coolant to exit to quickly before giving your rads/fans enough time to cool down the liquid inside your rads.


That isn't how it works.

The lowest possible coolant exit temp is provided by a flow rate of near zero ... but at the same time that will mean that boiling hot coolant is coming out of the water blocks and their temps will be crazy.

In actuality we can't have too high a flow rate in our typical systems. High flow rates provide the most effective cooling of water blocks and also move the heat rapidly to radiators. We actually don't want the coolant to change temp by much going through a radiator. If it does then the rads average temp is lower and less wattage is dissipated. The more wattage dissipated the cooler the overall system temp.

For highest efficiency we want the water blocks to be as cool as possible ... so higher flow rates stop them warming.
At the same time we also want rads to be as warm as possible ... high flow rates stop them cooling.


----------



## M-Sauce

Very interesting. Surprised we don't see more loops with blocks in series and rads in parallel. Would that not achieve the highest possible flow through the blocks and the lowest one through the rads?


----------



## OCDev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> You categorically 100% do not need multiple pumps in that loop lol! I guarantee your temps would be pretty much the same with just one.


Let me correct that statement! I don't need 3 pumps in this loop, just 2.







One D5 doesn't do very well pumping through 2 gpu water blocks, a cpu block and 5 radiators (assorted sizes, 1560mm total).

I added the 3rd pump because there was room and it was just sitting on the shelf in the basement all by itself with nothing to do.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> Let me correct that statement! I don't need 3 pumps in this loop, just 2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One D5 doesn't do very well pumping through 2 gpu water blocks, a cpu block and 5 radiators (assorted sizes, 1560mm total).
> 
> I added the 3rd pump because there was room and it was just sitting on the shelf in the basement all by itself with nothing to do.


I didn't realise you had 5 rads... but how... what case do you have?


----------



## OCDev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I didn't realise you had 5 rads... but how... what case do you have?


Corsair 900D. I put a 480 on top, a 480 on the bottom front, a 240 against the front fans, a 240 on the bottom back, and a 120in the back of the case next to the cpu. The one thing I would change about this build is actually the fan width. I had quite the collection of 38mm scythe ultra kaze's so that's what I went with. Ended up missing clearance for putting the pumps out of sight in the bottom of the case by about 5mm. Wasn't about to buy 16 regular size fans all at once though so I just put the pumps up on the plexi divider I made. Looks a little cluttered but not too bad.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> In actuality we can't have too high a flow rate in our typical systems. High flow rates provide the most effective cooling of water blocks and also move the heat rapidly to radiators. We actually don't want the coolant to change temp by much going through a radiator. If it does then the rads average temp is lower and less wattage is dissipated. The more wattage dissipated the cooler the overall system temp.
> 
> For highest efficiency we want the water blocks to be as cool as possible ... so higher flow rates stop them warming.
> At the same time we also want rads to be as warm as possible ... high flow rates stop them cooling.


Well. Our overall experience is the following (numbers are rough rule of thumb guidelines distilled from 15 years of experience by the whole company):
Below ~30l/h (0.13 GPM) the performance is becoming critical
30l/h - 60l/h (0.26 GPM) performance rises pretty linear
60l/h - 100l/h (0.44 GPM) performance rises almost neglectable (around 1°C)
above 100 l/h Performance changes within the margin of error of standard thermometers

So, in MY opinion, there is a sweet spot for flow rate, and that sweet spot is FAR below what is usually considered as "Highflow".

Considering your "can't have too high flow rate" statement, back in 2011 there actually was a project in a german forum that tried that. He ended up with using 18 D5 pumps and achieved a flowrate of 1115l/h (4.9Gpm) cooling an i7 920 and a GTX480 with two Black Ice Extreme 360 rads. When stress testing the final setup, he had to abort the test, because those 18 pumps emitted so much heat that water temp rose to 48°C







Link to post with temps and Link to post with pics and video. So, while your statement might be true in a theoretical setup, it is highly unrealistic.
And this doesn't even account for the fact that no water block is really designed for those kind of flowrates


----------



## OCDev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well. Our overall experience is the following (numbers are rough rule of thumb guidelines distilled from 15 years of experience by the whole company):
> Below ~30l/h (0.13 GPM) the performance is becoming critical
> 30l/h - 60l/h (0.26 GPM) performance rises pretty linear
> 60l/h - 100l/h (0.44 GPM) performance rises almost neglectable (around 1°C)
> above 100 l/h Performance changes within the margin of error of standard thermometers
> 
> So, in MY opinion, there is a sweet spot for flow rate, and that sweet spot is FAR below what is usually considered as "Highflow".
> 
> Considering your "can't have too high flow rate" statement, back in 2011 there actually was a project in a german forum that tried that. He ended up with using 18 D5 pumps and achieved a flowrate of 1115l/h (4.9Gpm) cooling an i7 920 and a GTX480 with two Black Ice Extreme 360 rads. When stress testing the final setup, he had to abort the test, because those 18 pumps emitted so much heat that water temp rose to 48°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to post with temps and Link to post with pics and video. So, while your statement might be true in a theoretical setup, it is highly unrealistic.
> And this doesn't even account for the fact that no water block is really designed for those kind of flowrates


My takeaway from this is that my 3 pumps is just perfect!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well. Our overall experience is the following (numbers are rough rule of thumb guidelines distilled from 15 years of experience by the whole company):
> Below ~30l/h (0.13 GPM) the performance is becoming critical
> 30l/h - 60l/h (0.26 GPM) performance rises pretty linear
> 60l/h - 100l/h (0.44 GPM) performance rises almost neglectable (around 1°C)
> above 100 l/h Performance changes within the margin of error of standard thermometers
> 
> So, in MY opinion, there is a sweet spot for flow rate, and that sweet spot is FAR below what is usually considered as "Highflow".
> 
> Considering your "can't have too high flow rate" statement, back in 2011 there actually was a project in a german forum that tried that. He ended up with using 18 D5 pumps and achieved a flowrate of 1115l/h (4.9Gpm) cooling an i7 920 and a GTX480 with two Black Ice Extreme 360 rads. When stress testing the final setup, he had to abort the test, because those 18 pumps emitted so much heat that water temp rose to 48°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to post with temps and Link to post with pics and video. So, while your statement might be true in a theoretical setup, it is highly unrealistic.
> And this doesn't even account for the fact that no water block is really designed for those kind of flowrates


Two questions for you Jakob, will the store website ever accept Bitcoins, and what do you personally consider the sweet spot for flowrate? When I first started watercooling I was obsessed with flowrate, then it seemed anything over .50 GPM was fine.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well. Our overall experience is the following (numbers are rough rule of thumb guidelines distilled from 15 years of experience by the whole company):
> Below ~30l/h (0.13 GPM) the performance is becoming critical
> 30l/h - 60l/h (0.26 GPM) performance rises pretty linear
> 60l/h - 100l/h (0.44 GPM) performance rises almost neglectable (around 1°C)
> above 100 l/h Performance changes within the margin of error of standard thermometers
> 
> So, in MY opinion, there is a sweet spot for flow rate, and that sweet spot is FAR below what is usually considered as "Highflow".
> 
> Considering your "can't have too high flow rate" statement, back in 2011 there actually was a project in a german forum that tried that. He ended up with using 18 D5 pumps and achieved a flowrate of 1115l/h (4.9Gpm) cooling an i7 920 and a GTX480 with two Black Ice Extreme 360 rads. When stress testing the final setup, he had to abort the test, because those 18 pumps emitted so much heat that water temp rose to 48°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to post with temps and Link to post with pics and video. So, while your statement might be true in a theoretical setup, it is highly unrealistic.
> And this doesn't even account for the fact that no water block is really designed for those kind of flowrates


18 D5's that is insane, lol.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> My takeaway from this is that my 3 pumps is just perfect!


Imo if you're happy with 3 D5's, that's great.









I've been running dual-D's for years, not so much because of the minimal flow rate gain, but simply for redundancy.

And I can't wait to get them hooked up to my new Watercool goodies!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well. Our overall experience is the following (numbers are rough rule of thumb guidelines distilled from 15 years of experience by the whole company):
> Below ~30l/h (0.13 GPM) the performance is becoming critical
> 30l/h - 60l/h (0.26 GPM) performance rises pretty linear
> 60l/h - 100l/h (0.44 GPM) performance rises almost neglectable (around 1°C)
> above 100 l/h Performance changes within the margin of error of standard thermometers
> 
> So, in MY opinion, there is a sweet spot for flow rate, and that sweet spot is FAR below what is usually considered as "Highflow".
> 
> Considering your "can't have too high flow rate" statement, back in 2011 there actually was a project in a german forum that tried that. He ended up with using 18 D5 pumps and achieved a flowrate of 1115l/h (4.9Gpm) cooling an i7 920 and a GTX480 with two Black Ice Extreme 360 rads. When stress testing the final setup, he had to abort the test, because those 18 pumps emitted so much heat that water temp rose to 48°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to post with temps and Link to post with pics and video. So, while your statement might be true in a theoretical setup, it is highly unrealistic.
> And this doesn't even account for the fact that no water block is really designed for those kind of flowrates


The key wording in the statement was "typical systems". Even an above average system will not achieve even close to those flow rates, or anything like that heat dump.
Though it is true that there can come a point where increasing pump power can cause enough heat dump that it cancels out the benefit of increased flow even in normal single and dual pump systems.

Your data supports the point I was trying to make. Simply that setting a lower flow rate does not give the rad time to cool better. Or, rather it technically does, but not in a helpful way.
In the 18 pump system it is not the flow rate itself that is the problem. If it was done with a pump that did not put it's heat into the coolant out would work fine.

From Fast Fates testing :


The higher the flow rate within the bounds of a normal system capability the better the cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Very interesting. Surprised we don't see more loops with blocks in series and rads in parallel. Would that not achieve the highest possible flow through the blocks and the lowest one through the rads?


That would lower the flow rate through each rad which is the opposite of what we want. Rads are normally the lowest restriction components in a loop so putting them in parallel to increase system flow would provide the lowest increases.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Sorry if this is slightly off topic

So all this talk about pump heat from D5s reminded me of something I was curious of (and I know it's splitting hairs)..... A D5 vario works by voltage regulation which has a tendency to create heat.

So has anyone ever tested to see if a Dual D5 Vario on 3 or 4 has a higher water temp than a Dual D5 PWM loop? If so how much different?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Sorry if this is slightly off topic
> 
> So all this talk about pump heat from D5s reminded me of something I was curious of (and I know it's splitting hairs)..... A D5 vario works by voltage regulation which has a tendency to create heat.
> 
> So has anyone ever tested to see if a Dual D5 Vario on 3 or 4 has a higher water temp than a Dual D5 PWM loop? If so how much different?


I certainly don't believe it has been tested but I doubt it would reveal any difference because as far as I know the d5 vario uses a pwm based motor controller. The control pot the dial is connected to just controls the pwm circuit, it isn't an inline pot on the 12v line.
That's why it is able to have a wide speed range compared to most varying the input voltage also why there is less heat rather than more at low speed.

I believe the pwm versions just tap into the existing pwm motor controller. Which is why they have the same circuit boards.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCDev*
> 
> My takeaway from this is that my 3 pumps is just perfect!


And funny enough, this isn't even the slightest wrong







More flowrate DOES help. My opinion focuses more on efficiency: the amount of additional work and money needed for the higher flowrate isn't worth the gain of only ~1-5°C temperature when that temperature gain could easily have been reached by spinning the fans faster. So to _ME_PERSONALLY_, it seems not efficient. But seeing that watercooling is a hobby, and people are in it for different reasons, your viewpoint is totally valid








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Two questions for you Jakob, will the store website ever accept Bitcoins, and what do you personally consider the sweet spot for flowrate? When I first started watercooling I was obsessed with flowrate, then it seemed anything over .50 GPM was fine.


No, we do not accept Bitcoins.
And I usually throttle the pump down until I reach ~70l/h (0.3GPM)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I've been running dual-D's for years, not so much because of the minimal flow rate gain, but simply for redundancy.


That's actually a good point! For my very first loop, I bought a lot of components on ebay, including a DDC 1T+. Seems this was on ebay for a reason: sometimes, the pump just wouldn't start, and I wouldn't notice it. Let me tell you: when your PC just had an emergency shut down due to the CPU overheating, the sound of boiling water in the CPU block is a REALLY scary sound!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The key wording in the statement was "typical systems". Even an above average system will not achieve even close to those flow rates, or anything like that heat dump.
> 
> From Fast Fates testing :
> 
> 
> The higher the flow rate within the bounds of a normal system capability the better the cooling.


The whole magic of the argument lies in what you consider "typical". In the german watercooling scene, the general consensus is to have your rad fans at 500-800rpms. The focus is way more on silence here. And when the goal is a temp drop of ~5°C, it is way easier to add one rad than to add 4 pumps (because the pumps are all throttled down, too. Because silence







).


----------



## ruffhi

I've been pulling apart my setup, trying to remove 90 turns, move the tubing setup, etc to up my flow rate from 120 lph ... and now you say that I should just accept that as a perfectly adequate flow rate. Where was this post 2 months ago?

I'll start the process of returning those other 20 pumps. j/k


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That's actually a good point! For my very first loop, I bought a lot of components on ebay, including a DDC 1T+. Seems this was on ebay for a reason: sometimes, the pump just wouldn't start, and I wouldn't notice it. Let me tell you: when your PC just had an emergency shut down due to the CPU overheating, the sound of boiling water in the CPU block is a REALLY scary sound!


ah, the good ol' ddc-1t+ startup failure, im still using mine in a dual ddc reservoir, it seems that the damn thing needs some kind of mechanical force to start, so a second ddc in series is doing the job in order to start the first one lmao.


----------



## OCDev

Ok guys, I'm only running 3 pumps because it amuses me every time I look at it. Sheesh. I think it's funny. It's right up there with having 5 rads. I just chuckle when I look at it. The actual temp difference was only 1 degree improvement from the pump. 2 pumps made a big difference though and I'll always use 2 if I'm watercooling because my very first build had a pump fail - not interested in that level of panic ever again.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The whole magic of the argument lies in what you consider "typical". In the german watercooling scene, the general consensus is to have your rad fans at 500-800rpms. The focus is way more on silence here. And when the goal is a temp drop of ~5°C, it is way easier to add one rad than to add 4 pumps (because the pumps are all throttled down, too. Because silence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Not really an argument, just a clarification for someone proposing that lower flow through a rad could improve its performance. Which we know it can't.

I don't know where it seemed that I was promoting super powered ultra flow systems. Just stating facts.
Its still true that you can't have too high a flow rate for cooling. Its just also true that you can have too high a heat and/or noise dump from pumps


----------



## rolldog

I really want to get one of these reservoirs for my new build, but can I use one of these reservoirs with a chrome Monsoon pump cover and top (running the pump from the reservoir) or do I need to use the reservoir with a D5 pump mounted underneath it? I really like the glass reservoir and all the individual options available for the res, but I'm just curious if a 150 reservoir can be used with the pump not installed on the bottom of the reservoir.

I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I really want to get one of these reservoirs for my new build, but can I use one of these reservoirs with a chrome Monsoon pump cover and top (running the pump from the reservoir) or do I need to use the reservoir with a D5 pump mounted underneath it? I really like the glass reservoir and all the individual options available for the res, but I'm just curious if a 150 reservoir can be used with the pump not installed on the bottom of the reservoir.
> 
> I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks.


Our reservoirs come in three versions: the DDC Version is prepared for a DDC pump and the D5 version for a standard D5 pump. These two versions require the respective pump. But the standalone HEATKILLER Tube is just a regular reservoir. It is not compatible to and does not require a specific pump and can be installed and combined with any external pump you like. DDCs or D5s with external pump tops or all kinds of Eheim versions.


----------



## Phobicsq

Quick question, for the reference 1080ti, can it use the backplate for the heatkiller iv titan (16061) or the 1080/1070 (16063)? Looking at the watercool site, the 16063 shows working with the 1080ti but not titan (16061), however, the actual gpu block is for the titan why wouldn't the backplate fit?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> Quick question, for the reference 1080ti, can it use the backplate for the heatkiller iv titan (16061) or the 1080/1070 (16063)? Looking at the watercool site, the 16063 shows working with the 1080ti but not titan (16061), however, the actual gpu block is for the titan why wouldn't the backplate fit?


16061 is for the Maxwell generation of cards. 16063 is for the Pascal generation. So for a 1080Ti, please order 16063.

For the 1080Ti, do NOT order the blocks for the GTX TITAN X. That is the Maxwell card. Nvidia "helped" us all with their great naming scheme, so you want blocks that are compatible to the TITAN X (Pascal). We also offer dedicated blocks that are only compatible to the 1080Ti, but not the TITAN X(p).


----------



## fx3861

hi all, need some experts recommendations as i planing a build consists of just heatkiller products onlu, minus the fittings. Just need some reviews on the 2 radiators which i been eyeing on, HTSF2 4x120 LTX & HTSF2 4x120 LT. Any difference in performance as LTX version is 50g lighter compared


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> hi all, need some experts recommendations as i planing a build consists of just heatkiller products onlu, minus the fittings. Just need some reviews on the 2 radiators which i been eyeing on, HTSF2 4x120 LTX & HTSF2 4x120 LT. Any difference in performance as LTX version is 50g lighter compared


I think even Jakob would say, you are probably better off going with another brand's radiators ATM. Watercool rads are a bit "old tech" at this point. They aren't bad, but something like a Hardware Labs or EK rad will perform noticeably better. Also, Watercool is working on a new generation of rads... so I don't think now is a good time. IMO there isn't anything better for 99% of use cases than Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS/GTX rads.

I guess this is a good time to ask @Watercool-Jakob how the progress is going on the new rads...?


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think even Jakob would say, you are probably better off going with another brand's radiators ATM. Watercool rads are a bit "old tech" at this point. They aren't bad, but something like a Hardware Labs or EK rad will perform noticeably better. Also, Watercool is working on a new generation of rads... so I don't think now is a good time. IMO there isn't anything better for 99% of use cases than Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS/GTX rads.
> 
> I guess this is a good time to ask @Watercool-Jakob how the progress is going on the new rads...?


But in thermalbench site, the tests findings is almost on par with ek pe360 series, although its a abit restrictive. Plus point is that is cheaper for me to get heatkiller rather than ek mainly due to the shipping charges.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> But in thermalbench site, the tests findings is almost on par with ek pe360 series, although its a abit restrictive. Plus point is that is cheaper for me to get heatkiller rather than ek mainly due to the shipping charges.


Performance differences notwithstanding, the quality of materials and manufacturing of the Heatkiller rads, is vastly superior to anything you would get from EK.

*Edit:*

From the Extreme Rigs review: (3x120 version)
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/16/watercool-htsf2-3x120-lt-360-radiator-review/6/

Quote:
*"The Watercool HTSF2 LT is a premium priced radiator being the most expensive by far in the test group. For that money you get precision German engineering and European manufacturing which oozes style and not some stamped out made in China clone. Unfortunately the core design, stylish as it is, does not translate to great thermal performance. It is a restrictive radiator also. Relative performance may improve in push or pull only fans, but with push&pull fans as tested, the HTSF2 fell short of the mark on performance."*

So, there is a tradeoff in overall performance, compared to some of the other rads tested in the review, although more so in push/pull configuration.
Especially now, since it is an older design, as paskowitz mentioned.

Depends on what you value most, quality and the cost / value to you, or overall performance.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> But in thermalbench site, the tests findings is almost on par with ek pe360 series, although its a abit restrictive. Plus point is that is cheaper for me to get heatkiller rather than ek mainly due to the shipping charges.


The only Watercool radiator I tested is the giant MO-RA3 Pro 9x140, are you confusing something else?


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The only Watercool radiator I tested is the giant MO-RA3 Pro 9x140, are you confusing something else?


Sorry, i meant from the extremerig website review


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Sorry, i meant from the extremerig website review


No problem


----------



## jarble

Any word on compatibility with the new TR4 socket on existing iv pro blocks? I have really fallen in love with this block and would hate to see it go. @Watercool-Jakob


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> hi all, need some experts recommendations as i planing a build consists of just heatkiller products onlu, minus the fittings. Just need some reviews on the 2 radiators which i been eyeing on, HTSF2 4x120 LTX & HTSF2 4x120 LT. Any difference in performance as LTX version is 50g lighter compared


The only difference between the LT and the LTX series is the outer housing: the LTX comes with brushed stainless steel, the LT with black powder coat. The core is identical.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> I think even Jakob would say, you are probably better off going with another brand's radiators ATM. Watercool rads are a bit "old tech" at this point. They aren't bad, but something like a Hardware Labs or EK rad will perform noticeably better. Also, Watercool is working on a new generation of rads... so I don't think now is a good time. IMO there isn't anything better for 99% of use cases than Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS/GTX rads.
> 
> I guess this is a good time to ask @Watercool-Jakob how the progress is going on the new rads...?


and
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Performance differences notwithstanding, the quality of materials and manufacturing of the Heatkiller rads, is vastly superior to anything you would get from EK.
> 
> *Edit:*
> 
> From the Extreme Rigs review: (3x120 version)
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/16/watercool-htsf2-3x120-lt-360-radiator-review/6/
> 
> Quote:
> *"The Watercool HTSF2 LT is a premium priced radiator being the most expensive by far in the test group. For that money you get precision German engineering and European manufacturing which oozes style and not some stamped out made in China clone. Unfortunately the core design, stylish as it is, does not translate to great thermal performance. It is a restrictive radiator also. Relative performance may improve in push or pull only fans, but with push&pull fans as tested, the HTSF2 fell short of the mark on performance."*
> 
> So, there is a tradeoff in overall performance, compared to some of the other rads tested in the review, although more so in push/pull configuration.
> Especially now, since it is an older design, as paskowitz mentioned.
> 
> Depends on what you value most, quality and the cost / value to you, or overall performance.


I really like this series of reviews a lot. It really goes in depth with all the details of the rads. Really high-quality material here!
So, if you follow the review closely, you can identify our targeted market niche for this product: low flow systems (0.3 - 0.5GPM) with slow fans (less than 1000rpm). In this niche, I'd say that the HTSF2 ist still one of the best performing rads on the market. So, depending on which factor you concentrate the most, the HTSF2 is still a good choice.

This also has its effects on the development of the new line of rads: we designed the HTSF2 with the german market as our target market, and as I said previously, the focus is WAY more on silence here than on performance. As you all are very aware, we are currently stretching out to the international market (that's why I'm here on OCN, basically







), and there are different preferences. Especially the american market is way more focused on flow rate and tolerates way higher fan speeds than what we are used to. So, the new rads will definitely take this into consideration! I can not specify any numbers yet, as we are still testing how different setups and fin counts perform under different flow- and fanspeed-conditions. But what I CAN definitely promise is that the protruding ports are history! We took quite some beating for them in the last years and will not continue them on the "normal" end customer rads! We are currently leaning towards a terminal solution like the ones on the MO-RA3, including the multiple ports. The protruding ports will, however, continue their life on the industry radiators, because the industry customers LOVE them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Any word on compatibility with the new TR4 socket on existing iv pro blocks? I have really fallen in love with this block and would hate to see it go. @Watercool-Jakob


No definite answer yet. We WANT to support that socket, but we will have to wait till we get a physical sample to experiment with. The Threadripper CPUs are huge in size, actually slightly larger than the cooling plate of our HKIV. So we will have to test if the standard HKIV cooling plate offers enough performance and we only need new holding brackets, that should be easy and quick to deliver. OR if we need a new, bigger cooling plate, which essentially means a completely new CPU block, to be honest. And that would take much longer, of course. We simply don't know yet which route we will go here.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The only difference between the LT and the LTX series is the outer housing: the LTX comes with brushed stainless steel, the LT with black powder coat. The core is identical.
> and
> I really like this series of reviews a lot. It really goes in depth with all the details of the rads. Really high-quality material here!
> So, if you follow the review closely, you can identify our targeted market niche for this product: low flow systems (0.3 - 0.5GPM) with slow fans (less than 1000rpm). In this niche, I'd say that the HTSF2 ist still one of the best performing rads on the market. So, depending on which factor you concentrate the most, the HTSF2 is still a good choice.
> 
> This also has its effects on the development of the new line of rads: we designed the HTSF2 with the german market as our target market, and as I said previously, the focus is WAY more on silence here than on performance. As you all are very aware, we are currently stretching out to the international market (that's why I'm here on OCN, basically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and there are different preferences. Especially the american market is way more focused on flow rate and tolerates way higher fan speeds than what we are used to. So, the new rads will definitely take this into consideration! I can not specify any numbers yet, as we are still testing how different setups and fin counts perform under different flow- and fanspeed-conditions. But what I CAN definitely promise is that the protruding ports are history! We took quite some beating for them in the last years and will not continue them on the "normal" end customer rads! We are currently leaning towards a terminal solution like the ones on the MO-RA3, including the multiple ports. The protruding ports will, however, continue their life on the industry radiators, because the industry customers LOVE them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No definite answer yet. We WANT to support that socket, but we will have to wait till we get a physical sample to experiment with. The Threadripper CPUs are huge in size, actually slightly larger than the cooling plate of our HKIV. So we will have to test if the standard HKIV cooling plate offers enough performance and we only need new holding brackets, that should be easy and quick to deliver. OR if we need a new, bigger cooling plate, which essentially means a completely new CPU block, to be honest. And that would take much longer, of course. We simply don't know yet which route we will go here.


Thanks for the quick reply







. It truly is a colossal socket







I hope that all that is need is new mounting hardware but if we have to wait for a new block I am sure it will be worth the wait.


----------



## fx3861

Thanks Watercool-Jakob, guess I be going for the LT version since its made for silent push fan layout.


----------



## Phobicsq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 16061 is for the Maxwell generation of cards. 16063 is for the Pascal generation. So for a 1080Ti, please order 16063.
> 
> For the 1080Ti, do NOT order the blocks for the GTX TITAN X. That is the Maxwell card. Nvidia "helped" us all with their great naming scheme, so you want blocks that are compatible to the TITAN X (Pascal). We also offer dedicated blocks that are only compatible to the 1080Ti, but not the TITAN X(p).


Thanks for the clarification


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The only difference between the LT and the LTX series is the outer housing: the LTX comes with brushed stainless steel, the LT with black powder coat. The core is identical.
> and
> I really like this series of reviews a lot. It really goes in depth with all the details of the rads. Really high-quality material here!
> So, if you follow the review closely, you can identify our targeted market niche for this product: low flow systems (0.3 - 0.5GPM) with slow fans (less than 1000rpm). In this niche, I'd say that the HTSF2 ist still one of the best performing rads on the market. So, depending on which factor you concentrate the most, the HTSF2 is still a good choice.
> 
> This also has its effects on the development of the new line of rads: we designed the HTSF2 with the german market as our target market, and as I said previously, the focus is WAY more on silence here than on performance. As you all are very aware, we are currently stretching out to the international market (that's why I'm here on OCN, basically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), and there are different preferences. Especially the american market is way more focused on flow rate and tolerates way higher fan speeds than what we are used to. So, the new rads will definitely take this into consideration! I can not specify any numbers yet, as we are still testing how different setups and fin counts perform under different flow- and fanspeed-conditions. But what I CAN definitely promise is that the protruding ports are history! We took quite some beating for them in the last years and will not continue them on the "normal" end customer rads! We are currently leaning towards a terminal solution like the ones on the MO-RA3, including the multiple ports. The protruding ports will, however, continue their life on the industry radiators, because the industry customers LOVE them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No definite answer yet. We WANT to support that socket, but we will have to wait till we get a physical sample to experiment with. The Threadripper CPUs are huge in size, actually slightly larger than the cooling plate of our HKIV. So we will have to test if the standard HKIV cooling plate offers enough performance and we only need new holding brackets, that should be easy and quick to deliver. OR if we need a new, bigger cooling plate, which essentially means a completely new CPU block, to be honest. And that would take much longer, of course. We simply don't know yet which route we will go here.


I just bought 2 of the HTFS2 rads for a new build, and one thing that has me concerned are the 2 ports on the radiators. Of course, I would love to have at least one port on the other end of the rad, but that's not a deal killer. I can work with that. My concern are the ports themselves. I haven't seen one of these rads before, only in pictures, and in the pictures I've seen, none have a good picture of these ports. Are the things in the ports extenders? If so, are they removable or do my fittings need to go into those copper extenders?


----------



## M-Sauce

*"Well. Our overall experience is the following (numbers are rough rule of thumb guidelines distilled from 15 years of experience by the whole company):
Below ~30l/h (0.13 GPM) the performance is becoming critical
30l/h - 60l/h (0.26 GPM) performance rises pretty linear
60l/h - 100l/h (0.44 GPM) performance rises almost neglectable (around 1°C)
above 100 l/h Performance changes within the margin of error of standard thermometers"
*

I'm starting to come to similar conclusions in my current loop. Doing various tests under idle and full load (rog bench) with different flow rates have shown very little, negligible gains in cooling with increased flow rates.

I've settled on about 1.8lpm as min flow rate, achieved with water temp of 20c or less. Then my dual PWM pumps ramp up linearly to 95% by 35c. Only temp gains if I go past 95% on the pumps, plus a bit more noise.

I might even bring this cap down to 90% after further testing, where I see about 2.8lpm.

So I think the long standing 3.8lpm/1gpm is not really necessary and a bit overkill.


----------



## equilni

Moved my setup to my old case. Heatkill IV blocks.


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I just bought 2 of the HTFS2 rads for a new build, and one thing that has me concerned are the 2 ports on the radiators. Of course, I would love to have at least one port on the other end of the rad, but that's not a deal killer. I can work with that. My concern are the ports themselves. I haven't seen one of these rads before, only in pictures, and in the pictures I've seen, none have a good picture of these ports. Are the things in the ports extenders? If so, are they removable or do my fittings need to go into those copper extenders?


Nope, they not extenders, they are the main inlet and outlet of the radiator itself, have an diy idea on how to hide those ports


----------



## Phobicsq

Does anyone know if the HEATKILLER LED VGA strips can be found outside of the WC Shop? I wanted to grab one for my gpu block but all I could find were the small and xs led strips at some online shops. I saw that a couple UK shops had the VGA led's but that's all.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I just bought 2 of the HTFS2 rads for a new build, and one thing that has me concerned are the 2 ports on the radiators. Of course, I would love to have at least one port on the other end of the rad, but that's not a deal killer. I can work with that. My concern are the ports themselves. I haven't seen one of these rads before, only in pictures, and in the pictures I've seen, none have a good picture of these ports. Are the things in the ports extenders? If so, are they removable or do my fittings need to go into those copper extenders?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Nope, they not extenders, they are the main inlet and outlet of the radiator itself, have an diy idea on how to hide those ports


That's correct. As I said, the new line of radiators will not have those kind of ports.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equilni*
> 
> Moved my setup to my old case. Heatkill IV blocks.


Thanks for those pics







That looks really packed in there, which case is this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> Does anyone know if the HEATKILLER LED VGA strips can be found outside of the WC Shop? I wanted to grab one for my gpu block but all I could find were the small and xs led strips at some online shops. I saw that a couple UK shops had the VGA led's but that's all.


I need to double check that. I THINK that those strips weren't sold to resellers, but I'm not absolutely sure.

As some of you know, I work out of my own home in Cologne, Northrhine Westfalia, while the HQ of the company is in Waren, Mecklenburg Vorpommern, good 650km/400miles away. I am currently in Waren for vacation and will do two work days on friday and monday in the main office. I'll try to make some pictures from the workshop and machinery park for you guys. Is there anything you are especially interested in you want me to cover?


----------



## equilni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for those pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks really packed in there, which case is this?


@Watercool-Jakob Cooler Master Elite 130


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> As some of you know, I work out of my own home in Cologne, Northrhine Westfalia, while the HQ of the company is in Waren, Mecklenburg Vorpommern, good 650km/400miles away. I am currently in Waren for vacation and will do two work days on friday and monday in the main office. I'll try to make some pictures from the workshop and machinery park for you guys. Is there anything you are especially interested in you want me to cover?


Pics/videos of the block design, manufacturing and assembly process. Maybe for the HK IV Pro CPU block?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

If possible, cnc machines in action because cnc mills are always neat to watch ^_^


----------



## Bart

CNC videos are ALWAYS cool to watch! Speaking of your pretty GPU blocks, Santa came 6 months early and brought me presents:



http://imgur.com/y15vtyz





http://imgur.com/kZ0FWaj





http://imgur.com/BKvRdH9


----------



## kevindd992002

@Watercool-Jakob

Do you have any plans on creating an EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock?


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> CNC videos are ALWAYS cool to watch! Speaking of your pretty GPU blocks, Santa came 6 months early and brought me presents:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/y15vtyz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/kZ0FWaj
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BKvRdH9


oh boy! you were a good boy!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Do you have any plans on creating an EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock?


I asked him this last week.

Unfortunately, Watercool will not being producing any AIB 1080ti waterblocks.

They have too many resources devoted to other projects currently.


----------



## Rainmaker91

I'm looking at getting the Heatkiller IV pro block for my system, it's going to replace my worn nickel/acrylic EKWB Supremacy block as I'm going for a copper theme instead of a "chrome" theme. I'm also looking at a GPU block, but watercool seems to change the design quite a lot so I'm unsure how a future Vega block will look (the RX480 blocks looks nice but the 1080 blocks have to much chrome to fit my build). Any ideas on what sort of block design Watercool plans to use on future blocks? If it doesn't have enough copper on it then I'll just go with Aquacomputer, but I would prefer to have all out Watercool components.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> CNC videos are ALWAYS cool to watch! Speaking of your pretty GPU blocks, Santa came 6 months early and brought me presents:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/y15vtyz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/kZ0FWaj
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BKvRdH9


Holy Sh...... Bart

look at these beauty

and just found this small but great club









just made the switch to 1080Ti FE and just made an order of a HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080Ti - ACRYL Ni-Bl at watercool.de

finally, The Phoenix will be full Heatkiller system (except rad)


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Holy Sh...... Bart
> 
> look at these beauty
> 
> and just found this small but great club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just made the switch to 1080Ti FE and just made an order of a HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080Ti - ACRYL Ni-Bl at watercool.de
> 
> finally, The Phoenix will be full Heatkiller system (except rad)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice to see you around here Snef!! Your photo skills are as excellent as ever. I hope the custom PC business has been good to you!!


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice to see you around here Snef!! Your photo skills are as excellent as ever. I hope the custom PC business has been good to you!!


Thanks a lot, and to be honest, better than expecting, like some said, if you make something you like for job.working, its not a job.work anymore


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks a lot, and to be honest, better than expecting, like some said, if you make something you like for job.working, its not a job.work anymore


That's fantastic!! Your in a class by yourself, so it's nice to see you"re having success,


----------



## Bart

Damn Snef, dat res!


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnDEYYkWj

Latest.


----------



## kevindd992002

If I buy the Heatkiller CPU WB that has the temp monitor display (I forgot what it's called) from PPCS, how long is the ETA?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pics/videos of the block design, manufacturing and assembly process. Maybe for the HK IV Pro CPU block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> If possible, cnc machines in action because cnc mills are always neat to watch ^_^


I tried to cover these things. No videos, as neither my camera nor the lighting was great, but I noticed the interest. I'll try to make this happen later on (probably autumn / winter).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> Do you have any plans on creating an EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 waterblock?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I asked him this last week.
> 
> Unfortunately, Watercool will not being producing any AIB 1080ti waterblocks.
> 
> They have too many resources devoted to other projects currently.


What he said. Sorry to let you guys down...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm looking at getting the Heatkiller IV pro block for my system, it's going to replace my worn nickel/acrylic EKWB Supremacy block as I'm going for a copper theme instead of a "chrome" theme. I'm also looking at a GPU block, but watercool seems to change the design quite a lot so I'm unsure how a future Vega block will look (the RX480 blocks looks nice but the 1080 blocks have to much chrome to fit my build). Any ideas on what sort of block design Watercool plans to use on future blocks? If it doesn't have enough copper on it then I'll just go with Aquacomputer, but I would prefer to have all out Watercool components.


You'll notice that our design path stayed rather consistent since the R9 Fury / GTX 980. The reason that the designs for Nvidia and AMD cards currently differ a lot is simply that their PCB layouts differ a lot. The sheer dimensions of PCBs and the vastly differing position of the VRMs dictate very different overall designs. Unless AMD changes their general basic PCB design, you can expect the Heatkiller for Vega to fit into the general aesthetics of the RX line.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Holy Sh...... Bart
> look at these beauty
> and just found this small but great club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just made the switch to 1080Ti FE and just made an order of a HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080Ti - ACRYL Ni-Bl at watercool.de
> finally, The Phoenix will be full Heatkiller system (except rad)


Hey Snef, welcome to the Club, great to have you here! You know I love your work and am already super excited about the Phoenix build! Really looking forward to seeing all the surprises you'll have for us!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks a lot, and to be honest, better than expecting, like some said, if you make something you like for job.working, its not a job.work anymore


My life starts to feel like that, too! I spent my evenings in weird Nerd forums for the better part of the last twenty years - but now I'm getting paid for it? AWESOME, MAN!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pnDEYYkWj
> 
> Latest.


Love it! Did you arrange the blue and red tubes corresponding to cold and "hot" water, or by any other system?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I buy the Heatkiller CPU WB that has the temp monitor display (I forgot what it's called) from PPCS, how long is the ETA?


Infinity









That's not our block, you are probably referring to an cuplex kryos NEXT with VISION by AquaComputer. Completely serparate company, though they're also german, and also great quality


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Love it! Did you arrange the blue and red tubes corresponding to cold and "hot" water, or by any other system?


I only thought of that later, it's the wrong way round for that.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You'll notice that our design path stayed rather consistent since the R9 Fury / GTX 980. The reason that the designs for Nvidia and AMD cards currently differ a lot is simply that their PCB layouts differ a lot. The sheer dimensions of PCBs and the vastly differing position of the VRMs dictate very different overall designs. Unless AMD changes their general basic PCB design, you can expect the Heatkiller for Vega to fit into the general aesthetics of the RX line.


I see, well thanks for answering at least. What I was most concerned about was the stainless steel plate covering up the clear acrylic and thus the coppery goodness that is underneath. there is nothing inherently wrong with stainless steel from an aesthetic point of view, it's just that it won't fit my particular build.

When I was referring to inconsistencies in design I was referring to the absence of the stainless steel cover on some blocks and the presence on others.

Some pictures, from Watercool.de
Example of without stainless steel cover (on the RX480 block):


2 examples with the stainless cover on (1080TI and R9 Fury X):



Edit: If the absence of it on the RX480 is due to the other plate being in the way then I completely understand, after all it is used to divert the water flow over the VRM on that card.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I buy the Heatkiller CPU WB that has the temp monitor display (I forgot what it's called) from PPCS, how long is the ETA?


I believe you're thinking about an Aquacomputer product, Watercool 's blocks don't have displays on them


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I tried to cover these things. No videos, as neither my camera nor the lighting was great, but I noticed the interest. I'll try to make this happen later on (probably autumn / winter).
> 
> What he said. Sorry to let you guys down...
> You'll notice that our design path stayed rather consistent since the R9 Fury / GTX 980. The reason that the designs for Nvidia and AMD cards currently differ a lot is simply that their PCB layouts differ a lot. The sheer dimensions of PCBs and the vastly differing position of the VRMs dictate very different overall designs. Unless AMD changes their general basic PCB design, you can expect the Heatkiller for Vega to fit into the general aesthetics of the RX line.
> Hey Snef, welcome to the Club, great to have you here! You know I love your work and am already super excited about the Phoenix build! Really looking forward to seeing all the surprises you'll have for us!
> My life starts to feel like that, too! I spent my evenings in weird Nerd forums for the better part of the last twenty years - but now I'm getting paid for it? AWESOME, MAN!!!
> Love it! Did you arrange the blue and red tubes corresponding to cold and "hot" water, or by any other system?
> Infinity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not our block, you are probably referring to an cuplex kryos NEXT with VISION by AquaComputer. Completely serparate company, though they're also german, and also great quality


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I believe you're thinking about an Aquacomputer product, Watercool 's blocks don't have displays on them


Oh ***! I feel stupid. You guys are right! Sorry.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Wait, so the Heatkiller IV is not exclusively produced by Watercool? This I did not know....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Wait, so the Heatkiller IV is not exclusively produced by Watercool? This I did not know....


Where are you seeing that? The Heatkiller brand belongs to Watercool entirely.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Where are you seeing that? The Heatkiller brand belongs to Watercool entirely.


Oops, just ignore me... another apparently blind and non reader of entire posts idiot just hanging out....lol


----------



## fx3861

is the dc pump wire already sleeved or its diy?


----------



## kevindd992002

@Watercool-Jakob

Jakob, what is the difference between the Heatkiller IV PRO Acryl and Acryl Clean? Is it only the bracket on top that's in the Acryl? So only aesthetics?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> If I buy the Heatkiller CPU WB that has the temp monitor display (I forgot what it's called) from PPCS, how long is the ETA?


Your thinking of Aqua-Computer Vision series. If they have to special order it, have fun waiting. It will be a long time. No sure whats going on with that product line, Everyone constantly has no stock and it takes them months & months to ship more units out.

HeatKiller performs better then vision. Personally I would get a HeatKiller & just get Table Top Unit for vision.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Your thinking of Aqua-Computer Vision series. If they have to special order it, have fun waiting. It will be a long time. No sure whats going on with that product line, Everyone constantly has no stock and it takes them months & months to ship more units out.
> 
> HeatKiller performs better then vision. Personally I would get a HeatKiller & just get Table Top Unit for vision.


Yes, I already realized that as evident by the subsequent posts after that was corrected


----------



## Newtocooling

Jakob if on the Watercool site it says unknown in regards to the EVGA 1080ti SC Gaming version does that mean the the 1080ti block maybe compatible?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> is the dc pump wire already sleeved or its diy?


Nope, they don't come sleeved yet. But we received some requests about that and are looking into it currently.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Jakob, what is the difference between the Heatkiller IV PRO Acryl and Acryl Clean? Is it only the bracket on top that's in the Acryl? So only aesthetics?


Exactly, only aesthetics.

Guys, I have a question to you about our new line of radiators.
So, having different ports for multiple mounting versions came up quite often. We will definitely have ports on the bottom and on the front, So two inlets and two outlets. But the question we asked ourselves is: are two additional ports o the top actually _neccessary_ for anyone? So, has anyone ever had a real-life in-use PC where he used the inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top? Because in our experience, and by everything I ever saw on the internet, people usually use inlet and outlet facing to the same side - because the rad is normally mounted to a case wall (front or top, usually), and it's just not possible to use the other-facing port.
Or can anyone give me a real-world example?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Nope, they don't come sleeved yet. But we received some requests about that and are looking into it currently.
> Exactly, only aesthetics.
> 
> Guys, I have a question to you about our new line of radiators.
> So, having different ports for multiple mounting versions came up quite often. We will definitely have ports on the bottom and on the front, So two inlets and two outlets. But the question we asked ourselves is: are two additional ports o the top actually _neccessary_ for anyone? So, has anyone ever had a real-life in-use PC where he used the inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top? Because in our experience, and by everything I ever saw on the internet, people usually use inlet and outlet facing to the same side - because the rad is normally mounted to a case wall (front or top, usually), and it's just not possible to use the other-facing port.
> Or can anyone give me a real-world example?


Extra ports are useful in adding drain plugs/QDCs, temperature sensors etc. I would say do top and side, instead of top and bottom. Check out what XSPC did with the RX V3 to get an idea of what I meant.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Extra ports are useful in adding drain plugs/QDCs, temperature sensors etc. I would say do top and side, instead of top and bottom. Check out what XSPC did with the RX V3 to get an idea of what I meant.


That is EXACTLY what we will do. Maybe I formulated it ambiguous. My bad. But yeah, there WILL be those four ports. Question is if anyone ever used the additional two ports that (for example) the Alphacool Nexxxos rads offer. Because we think that those two ports will always be blocked by case walls, but maybe we oversaw a mounting position where they will actually be helpful.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That is EXACTLY what we will do. Maybe I formulated it ambiguous. My bad. But yeah, there WILL be those four ports. Question is if anyone ever used the additional two ports that (for example) the Alphacool Nexxxos rads offer. Because we think that those two ports will always be blocked by case walls, but maybe we oversaw a mounting position where they will actually be helpful.


Ahh I understand now. I think four ports are fine, and if you plan to have a fifth on the other side that would be nice also. I don't see anyone using a 6-port radiator end tank.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That is EXACTLY what we will do. Maybe I formulated it ambiguous. My bad. But yeah, there WILL be those four ports. Question is if anyone ever used the additional two ports that (for example) the Alphacool Nexxxos rads offer. Because we think that those two ports will always be blocked by case walls, but maybe we oversaw a mounting position where they will actually be helpful.


I use one of my ports on the Alphacool Nexxxos rads, they are fairly useful for adding a drain-port. I also use the oposite plugs on my top radiator for filling my loop.

Here is a couple of pictures (please ignore the horrible paint-job on those radiators, I didn't have time to redo them before I was forced to assemble my loop):




All in all though, doing extra ports never really hurts as long as it doesn't increase the price to much. Doing them countersunk would also be a good idea so that they could be placed against the case wall without issues.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I already realized that as evident by the subsequent posts after that was corrected
Click to expand...

Must be called "rubbing it in" lol.

I agree that the Heatkiller block is better, imo the best.
I recently bought one to add to my Heatkiller collection, for my infinite upgrade path, lol.
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18002

Solid copper is my material of choice, but if you like their acrylic blocks they are stunning as well.
Pictures just don't do this thing justice, you have to see it in person to really appreciate what a fine piece it is.

As for that other company's "Vision" thingy, that's just a gimmick, lol.

(ok, I do have an Aquaero, but who cares lol.)


----------



## fx3861

any eta on the new rads? kinda hard to hold back the itching on pressing complte purchases


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> As for that other company's "Vision" thingy, that's just a gimmick, lol.
> 
> (ok, I do have an Aquaero, but who cares lol.)


It's definitely not a gimmick. Asus has adopted a similar on-board display on a couple of their X299 motherboards now as well, I also just got done testing the cuplex kryos NEXT with VARIO and VISION and it's really innovative so let's give them credit. It will help push Watercool also so I am sure Jakob is a fan of competition from Aqua Computer too


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It's definitely not a gimmick. Asus has adopted a similar on-board display on a couple of their X299 motherboards now as well, I also just got done testing the cuplex kryos NEXT with VARIO and VISION and it's really innovative so let's give them credit. It will help push Watercool also so I am sure Jakob is a fan of competition from Aqua Computer too


I think Watercool only has to worry once Aquacomputer starts making their hardware look good. While I don't like the display on the CPU block, I do think it would make sense on the GPU block where there is a lot more space.

I also like Asus's implementation as well. Instead of code 44 or whatever, it can say "44 RAM ERROR". I could see this being useful for system crashes as well. Having a display say "Kernal power error" or whatever right after a crash would expedite the troubleshooting process.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> As for that other company's "Vision" thingy, that's just a gimmick, lol.
> 
> (ok, I do have an Aquaero, but who cares lol.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's definitely not a gimmick. Asus has adopted a similar on-board display on a couple of their X299 motherboards now as well, I also just got done testing the cuplex kryos NEXT with VARIO and VISION and it's really innovative so let's give them credit. It will help push Watercool also so I am sure Jakob is a fan of competition from Aqua Computer too
Click to expand...

Ah, you're a very frank reviewer.









But, although I was making humor of the competition, it is certainly an innovative feature.

Your review helped me to choose the Heatkiller cpu block:
http://thermalbench.com/2015/04/03/watercool-heatkiller-iv-pro-cpu-waterblock/#more-530
I like the way Watercool rolls.

Edit:
Forgot to put in my two bits for the new rads.:

I had an Alphacool 480 Monsta in my TJ07 build, the extra ports were nice, but I certainly didn't need 6.
Access space was at a premium as well in that case, big-time.


And the "Designed In Germany" Alphacool rads don't translate all that well quality-wise, when they're actually mass-produced in a factory in the orient.

Imo the four-port plan would be a good way to go.
I hope at least some of the unique characteristics of the existing rads can be continued, unlike most of the mass-produced rads on the market today.

I'd like to see threaded inserts, with screw guards, for the rad screws.
And of course modular construction, perhaps with stainless side panels.

It will be interesting to see how "competitive" the new rads can be made, with some of the current competition, regarding their thermal performance.
But superior construction and materials, which always seems to be a thing in Germany, counts for a lot imo.


----------



## Norlig

@Watercool-Jakob

Will the Watercool HEATKILLER SW-X 80 DIY * , fit the new X299 motherboards?

Specifically the Asus Prime X299-a ?


----------



## ruffhi

My rig uses ports on the top, side and bottom. See pedestal in Liquorice Allsorts (sig).


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> While I don't like the display on the CPU block, I do think it would make sense on the GPU block where there is a lot more space.


Yes! First GPU block to do this gets my money... incredibly useful feature if you ask me, perhaps even a display which shows CPU also.


----------



## Wally West

Hey, does anyone know if heatkiller waterblock fit the any evga 1080 ti?


----------



## rolldog

I finally got around to working on my latest build, and first thing I started was installing my fans onto 2 x Heatkiller HTSF2 3x120 LTX radiators, and I was surprised that they didn't come with any hardware to attach the fans or anything else to the radiators.

Can you tell me if these radiators use M3 or M4 screws? I'm guessing 28mm length given the fans are 25mm, but if going through a mounting bracket, fans, and into the radiators, probably 31mm. Maybe it's better if I just ask how much room do I have before I hit the fins, and do I need M3 or M4 screws for these rads? The rest I can figure out on my own. Thanks!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, does anyone know if heatkiller waterblock fit the any evga 1080 ti?


The Watercool Heatkiller IV for GTX1080TI should be compatible with all "reference" cards, so that includes all of the EVGA designs that fit in to that category. That said, this is the only card specifically listed in Watercools compatability list: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6390-KR

Still, EVGA has a tendency of using reference design PCBs for a lot of their cards with beefier coolers as well, so you can look around to see if any of the others have that design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I finally got around to working on my latest build, and first thing I started was installing my fans onto 2 x Heatkiller HTSF2 3x120 LTX radiators, and I was surprised that they didn't come with any hardware to attach the fans or anything else to the radiators.
> 
> Can you tell me if these radiators use M3 or M4 screws? I'm guessing 28mm length given the fans are 25mm, but if going through a mounting bracket, fans, and into the radiators, probably 31mm. Maybe it's better if I just ask how much room do I have before I hit the fins, and do I need M3 or M4 screws for these rads? The rest I can figure out on my own. Thanks!


The Watercool HTSF2 radiators are listed as using M3 screws _"The HTSF2 constitute a 120 mm heat exchanger series. Their symmetrical layout allows fan mounting on both sides, utilising integrated M3 threads. Two G1/4"-threads are available for various fittings."_. I have no idea how long the screws may be, but you can always measure the distance from the shroud where the screws enter and to the fins themselves. most radiators use 30mm screws as standard, but as you mentioned 28mm is used in some instances as well. I would say that 28mm is probably the safe bet, and then adding length to them depending on the thickness of the fan (if you have 38mm thick fans, or a shroud between for example). So if you have a 5mm shroud between the fan and the radiator you would need to add 5mm more to the length of the screw, which for the most part would mean you need to use 35mm long screws, or 33mm long if you want to be safe.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Jakob if on the Watercool site it says unknown in regards to the EVGA 1080ti SC Gaming version does that mean the the 1080ti block maybe compatible?


Thanks for bringing that up! "Unknown" means that we couldn't verify the PCBs when we added the card to the list. We could now, and unfortunately, the EVGA 108Ti SC2 Gaming is a custom board. We updated the GPU Compatibility list accordingly. Please refresh the page to make sure that you don't just see your browsers cache version of it







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Hey, does anyone know if heatkiller waterblock fit the any evga 1080 ti?


Please see the last answer








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norlig*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Will the Watercool HEATKILLER SW-X 80 DIY * , fit the new X299 motherboards?
> 
> Specifically the Asus Prime X299-a ?


We cannot verify nor deny this. But the DIY kit comes with a rectangular baseplate that every customer can fit to his own mainboard's layout, so technically, it should fit EVERY mainboard. Some own work is required, though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> any eta on the new rads? kinda hard to hold back the itching on pressing complte purchases


First of all, thanks to everybody for their feedback on the port layout. Our general plan right now is that there will be several radiators. We plan to do a 120mm line and a 140mm line, in three thicknesses (~35mm, 50mm, 60mm), as single, dual and triple rads. We will probably do 4*120 rads, but not in all three thicknesses, and will probably not do any 4*140 rads. This adds up to at least 18 new products that are currently in design phase! We will definitely do 4 ports on the thin and medium rads, and 5 or 6 ports on the thick rads. All rads will have tubes instead of "flat tubes", based on the principle layout of our successful MO-RA line. The flat ones will have a 6 parallel U shape, the medium and thick ones will have more passthroughs, keeping the coolant in the rad for a longer time, thus cooling it more. We have a few proof of concept studies in the shop, but no final prototype. So, I guess that the rads will enter the public market in Q4/2017.


----------



## Newtocooling

Jakob are any stores in the U.S getting the 1080ti dedicated blocks? Performance nor ModmyMods even have them listed. Their stock is only showing the TItan X in stock.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

All our resellers are independent companies operating on their own terms. We have no influence whatsoever to what they order from us and want to stock in their own, independent storage rooms. So, If they feel that they make a better bargain by stocking a block that is compatible with two different cards then consuming storage room for an additional block that is only compatible with one card, I can fully understand that logic. But it's entirely up to them. If you want them to stock specific products from our product range, feel free to ask them for it, and maybe, they will order it from us - and we will be very happy to supply them with it







But they operate completely independent from us...


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The Watercool Heatkiller IV for GTX1080TI should be compatible with all "reference" cards, so that includes all of the EVGA designs that fit in to that category. That said, this is the only card specifically listed in Watercools compatability list: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6390-KR
> 
> Still, EVGA has a tendency of using reference design PCBs for a lot of their cards with beefier coolers as well, so you can look around to see if any of the others have that design.
> The Watercool HTSF2 radiators are listed as using M3 screws _"The HTSF2 constitute a 120 mm heat exchanger series. Their symmetrical layout allows fan mounting on both sides, utilising integrated M3 threads. Two G1/4"-threads are available for various fittings."_. I have no idea how long the screws may be, but you can always measure the distance from the shroud where the screws enter and to the fins themselves. most radiators use 30mm screws as standard, but as you mentioned 28mm is used in some instances as well. I would say that 28mm is probably the safe bet, and then adding length to them depending on the thickness of the fan (if you have 38mm thick fans, or a shroud between for example). So if you have a 5mm shroud between the fan and the radiator you would need to add 5mm more to the length of the screw, which for the most part would mean you need to use 35mm long screws, or 33mm long if you want to be safe.


M3, great, that's exactly what I needed to know. In my last build, I used blue anodized screws, which were all too long, so I just took a dremel to them to shorten them out.


----------



## TheDarkSide

bought my first heatkiller product. Heatkiller 200 tube + watercool D5 pump and some accessories. I'm impressed with the quality, and the combo has proven extremely quiet as well







.
You've got yourself a new fan.


----------



## ruffhi

Is anyone looking for a HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titan X (Pascal) from a US based distributor?

If I buy one, it will cost me $34 in shipping to the US. If I buy 7 ... shipping is free. Anyone need one? I am happy to combine order and then reship from my place to yours.

*Edit*: free shipping now requires a purchase of 400 euro ... or 16 backplates. That is too risky for my tastes.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I finally got around to working on my latest build, and first thing I started was installing my fans onto 2 x Heatkiller HTSF2 3x120 LTX radiators, and I was surprised that they didn't come with any hardware to attach the fans or anything else to the radiators.
> 
> Can you tell me if these radiators use M3 or M4 screws? I'm guessing 28mm length given the fans are 25mm, but if going through a mounting bracket, fans, and into the radiators, probably 31mm. Maybe it's better if I just ask how much room do I have before I hit the fins, and do I need M3 or M4 screws for these rads? The rest I can figure out on my own. Thanks!


Wanted to get an exact answer for this. Exact thread size is M3 DIN 7991. The length of the screws should be the thickness of the fans plus 5mm. So, for 25mm fans, you should use M3x30 screws.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is anyone looking for a HEATKILLER® IV eBC - Backplate for GTX 1080, 1070 and Titan X (Pascal) from a US based distributor?
> 
> If I buy one, it will cost me $34 in shipping to the US. If I buy 7 ... shipping is free. Anyone need one? I am happy to combine order and then reship from my place to yours.


So who would pay for shipping to ship it out to the others in the US that want one?


----------



## ruffhi

Well ... if you wanted one, you would pay the 1 seventh of what my CC charged me plus shipping from Boston to your location. I would be the bunny up-fronting the whole cost and running around shipping them to everyone.

If you live in Boston, I will hand deliver it.


----------



## fx3861

HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 - ACRYL Ni-Bl Can it be used on Asus Strix GTx 1080 8GB Advance version, i check on the compatiable list, listed as custom pcb layout & no compatible water block. Just wana be sure b4 placing my order list.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 - ACRYL Ni-Bl Can it be used on Asus Strix GTx 1080 8GB Advance version, i check on the compatiable list, listed as custom pcb layout & no compatible water block. Just wana be sure b4 placing my order list.


It won't fit, as the compatibility list mentions. You will need a block designed for the Asus Strix.


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It won't fit, as the compatibility list mentions. You will need a block designed for the Asus Strix.


Damn, just abt to get all under heatkiller, hopefully they make one soon


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Damn, just abt to get all under heatkiller, hopefully they make one soon


I believe it was mentioned that for this generation, GPU blocks will be reference only.... As resources are tied up with other projects at this time (production, working on new versions of their radiators, and of course, delicious cupcakes (aka secret stuff they haven't commented on yet))


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I believe it was mentioned that for this generation, GPU blocks will be reference only.... As resources are tied up with other projects at this time (production, working on new versions of their radiators, and of course, delicious cupcakes (aka secret stuff they haven't commented on yet))


No worries, guess i have to wait on water cooling my gpu or go for ek for the time being. Another option will be exchanging it for founder edition.


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Norlig*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Will the Watercool HEATKILLER SW-X 80 DIY * , fit the new X299 motherboards?
> 
> Specifically the Asus Prime X299-a ?
> 
> 
> 
> We cannot verify nor deny this. But the DIY kit comes with a rectangular baseplate that every customer can fit to his own mainboard's layout, so technically, it should fit EVERY mainboard. Some own work is required, though
Click to expand...

The screw holes from top to bottomn for the VRM cooler was too wide for the heatsink, so I had to mount it skewered.



But, it works.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 and 1070 - ACRYL Ni-Bl Can it be used on Asus Strix GTx 1080 8GB Advance version, i check on the compatiable list, listed as custom pcb layout & no compatible water block. Just wana be sure b4 placing my order list.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It won't fit, as the compatibility list mentions. You will need a block designed for the Asus Strix.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I believe it was mentioned that for this generation, GPU blocks will be reference only.... As resources are tied up with other projects at this time (production, working on new versions of their radiators, and of course, delicious cupcakes (aka secret stuff they haven't commented on yet))


These answers are both fully correct. Especially the cupcakes part









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norlig*
> 
> The screw holes from top to bottomn for the VRM cooler was too wide for the heatsink, so I had to mount it skewered.
> 
> 
> 
> But, it works.


Thanks for sharing! If I understand you correctly, the screw holes were more than 15mm in vertical direction? Do you have other shots? Especially without the tubing?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for the headsup. Yes, we are aware of this. We didn't offer every version of the CPU blocks for AMD, since there simply was no demand for it. Since AM4, the demand has ryzen (... seewhatididthere?) significantly, so we started to offer the other versions too, but didn't have the time for a proper photoshooting. We'll deliver them asap.


Okay, "asap" took us a while, but we finally delivered: there now are pictures for all Heatkiller IV for AMD CPU versions. And boy, are they gorgeous!





Also, we made the HK IV with the Hardwareluxx special edition top a standard article, both for AMD and for Intel:


----------



## Wally West

Oh wow, I would love to see a build with the HWluxx edition


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for bringing that up! "Unknown" means that we couldn't verify the PCBs when we added the card to the list. We could now, and unfortunately, the EVGA 108Ti SC2 Gaming is a custom board. We updated the GPU Compatibility list accordingly. Please refresh the page to make sure that you don't just see your browsers cache version of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please see the last answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We cannot verify nor deny this. But the DIY kit comes with a rectangular baseplate that every customer can fit to his own mainboard's layout, so technically, it should fit EVERY mainboard. Some own work is required, though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First of all, thanks to everybody for their feedback on the port layout. Our general plan right now is that there will be several radiators. We plan to do a 120mm line and a 140mm line, in three thicknesses (~35mm, 50mm, 60mm), as single, dual and triple rads. We will probably do 4*120 rads, but not in all three thicknesses, and will probably not do any 4*140 rads. This adds up to at least 18 new products that are currently in design phase! We will definitely do 4 ports on the thin and medium rads, and 5 or 6 ports on the thick rads. All rads will have tubes instead of "flat tubes", based on the principle layout of our successful MO-RA line. The flat ones will have a 6 parallel U shape, the medium and thick ones will have more passthroughs, *keeping the coolant in the rad for a longer time, thus cooling it more.* We have a few proof of concept studies in the shop, but no final prototype. So, I guess that the rads will enter the public market in Q4/2017.


Urgghhh!!! Not from you guys too.








The only way to keep coolant in the rad for longer is to lower the flow rate, which if course affects the whole system. There is no design of rad that just keeps the coolant longer than another design.

Rads have a fixed volume, say it's 500ml for simplicity. If the loop flow rate is 4lpm then the coolant in the rad is completely changed 8 times a minute or each ml of water spends 7.5 seconds in the radiator.
To increase this number you must either lower the flow rate or increase the volume. Neither of these is affected by the number of passes or layout of tubes.

I expect better from Watercool than to perpetuate these sort of water cooling myths.
Mayhems similar claims of four pass rads keeping the coolant longer to cool it better was easier to swallow.

PS. If anything 4 pass rad design keeps the coolant for less time because it very slightly shrinks the coolant volume as compared to dual pass. Two extra plates in each end tank are required to split flow to the tubes.


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for sharing! If I understand you correctly, the screw holes were more than 15mm in vertical direction? Do you have other shots? Especially without the tubing?


Well, I did screw up the holes, as I decided to use the left hole on the right, instead of the hole that was used for the stock heatsink, in the middle of mounting.

I could have put the Left screw further down (to lift up the right side) and right screw further up (to lower the left side) and it would be level.

So my previous post was not entirely accurate afterall.
The holes are not too far apart, I just messed up.

I only have this picture, no pic of the VRM block mounted without tubing.



If you want to send me a new copper plate, I can redo it better


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Also, we made the HK IV with the Hardwareluxx special edition top a standard article, both for AMD and for Intel


ohhhh this was a good idea. damn it looks so clean. a flat plane is exactly what I had hoped for with the original full acrylic version, so i'm super excited about this.


----------



## Mads1

Some Watercool heatkiller love here.


----------



## snef

Again








, Some Watercool heatkiller love.

i made a very little mod to the cpu block to not have the txt up side down

buit next time will have the clear top instead,


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

It's quite a wild time currently! So many things are going on, I barely find the time to post everything everywhere! I'm doing my best to keep you guys updated here!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norlig*
> 
> Well, I did screw up the holes, as I decided to use the left hole on the right, instead of the hole that was used for the stock heatsink, in the middle of mounting.
> 
> I could have put the Left screw further down (to lift up the right side) and right screw further up (to lower the left side) and it would be level.
> 
> So my previous post was not entirely accurate afterall.
> The holes are not too far apart, I just messed up.
> 
> If you want to send me a new copper plate, I can redo it better


We actually offer those plates for replacement. This way, you can keep your water block when changing motherboards and only need to cut the new plate! And thanks for the pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Some Watercool heatkiller love here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Some Watercool heatkiller love.
> i made a very little mod to the cpu block to not have the txt up side down
> buit next time will have the clear top instead,


Thanks for all the love, you guys! I can't WAIT to see both of your builds. These are both really awesome pieces of art, and we are happy to be part of it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Rads have a fixed volume, say it's 500ml for simplicity. If the loop flow rate is 4lpm then the coolant in the rad is completely changed 8 times a minute or each ml of water spends 7.5 seconds in the radiator.
> To increase this number you must either lower the flow rate or increase the volume. Neither of these is affected by the number of passes or layout of tubes.


I finally have the pics from the workshop tour ready. Please be aware that I am in no way a professional photographer, so please be gentle with me







I'm bringing this up in this conversation because of one specific pic:


This is the desk of our founder, CEO and Chief Designer, Rico Weber. As you can see, he is currently working on the design of the radiators.

Regarding your critique about my "the fluid stays longer in the rad": I am comparing our tube-style radiators against the more common "flat-tube" radiators. The volume of a flat tube radiator of a given size (say, a 360 rad) will alway be way lower that that of a tube-style rad of the same 360 size. Additionally, we have WAY more passes. We are still evaluating our numbers, but the medium thickness (~45-50mm) will have three or four parallel tubes that will make six or eight passes, and the thick size (~60-65mm) will have four or six parallel tubes making six or eight passes. So, your initial statement is right when staying in the same class of radiators, but I was comparing completely different concepts of rads. What I basically meant was: the fluid will stay longer in a 360rad of ours compared to a 360 rad of any other manufacturer. To get a better idea of our radiator core design, feel free to check this very good review on extremerigs. I hope I made my initial idea clearer










This is a landscape of MO-RA3 Cores









I'll post some more pics from the shop the next couple of weeks, I still try to sort them which matches what best, etc...

Now, other than that, there are currently two great builds going on that I wanted to bring to your attention: Brian from BPSCustoms does



__ https://www.facebook.com/watercool/posts/1487185788005613


and is definitely worth a follow. We sponsored his newest build, as we did with Derek from nxtgenpcs. Both their build progresses are quite entertaining to watch, so give them a try! And last but not least,



__ https://www.facebook.com/watercool/posts/1483769855013873


did an astonishing build for his little daughter that turned out really beautiful and cute.

Sorry for the walloftext, but as I said, a lot of things are happening right now


----------



## ruffhi

re 'the fluid stays longer in the rad' ... maybe it is more accurate to say that these new rads you are looking at contain more fluid than other rads. So, while the flow rate is the same, the fluid does spend more time in these rads because it has further to travel.


----------



## fast_fate

@Watercool-Jakob You can quote me if you want on the description of your radiator cores









"_*Technically we could call this a Parallel Triple Tube, Hex Pass Finned Tube Core*_"

altering to suit the different models available
BUT...that might just confuse people


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob You can quote me if you want on the description of your radiator cores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "_*Technically we could call this a Parallel Triple Tube, Hex Pass Finned Tube Core*_"
> 
> altering to suit the different models available
> BUT...that might just confuse people


PTTHPTC. Rolls right of the tongue...


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> It's quite a wild time currently! So many things are going on, I barely find the time to post everything everywhere! I'm doing my best to keep you guys updated here!
> We actually offer those plates for replacement. This way, you can keep your water block when changing motherboards and only need to cut the new plate! And thanks for the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the love, you guys! I can't WAIT to see both of your builds. These are both really awesome pieces of art, and we are happy to be part of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally have the pics from the workshop tour ready. Please be aware that I am in no way a professional photographer, so please be gentle with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm bringing this up in this conversation because of one specific pic:
> 
> 
> This is the desk of our founder, CEO and Chief Designer, Rico Weber. As you can see, he is currently working on the design of the radiators.
> 
> Regarding your critique about my "the fluid stays longer in the rad": I am comparing our tube-style radiators against the more common "flat-tube" radiators. The volume of a flat tube radiator of a given size (say, a 360 rad) will alway be way lower that that of a tube-style rad of the same 360 size. Additionally, we have WAY more passes. We are still evaluating our numbers, but the medium thickness (~45-50mm) will have three or four parallel tubes that will make six or eight passes, and the thick size (~60-65mm) will have four or six parallel tubes making six or eight passes. So, your initial statement is right when staying in the same class of radiators, but I was comparing completely different concepts of rads. What I basically meant was: the fluid will stay longer in a 360rad of ours compared to a 360 rad of any other manufacturer. To get a better idea of our radiator core design, feel free to check this very good review on extremerigs. I hope I made my initial idea clearer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a landscape of MO-RA3 Cores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some more pics from the shop the next couple of weeks, I still try to sort them which matches what best, etc...
> 
> Now, other than that, there are currently two great builds going on that I wanted to bring to your attention: Brian from BPSCustoms does
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/watercool/posts/1487185788005613
> 
> 
> and is definitely worth a follow. We sponsored his newest build, as we did with Derek from nxtgenpcs. Both their build progresses are quite entertaining to watch, so give them a try! And last but not least,
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/watercool/posts/1483769855013873
> 
> 
> did an astonishing build for his little daughter that turned out really beautiful and cute.
> 
> Sorry for the walloftext, but as I said, a lot of things are happening right now


That makes much more sense of course. A 480 rad holds coolant longer than a 240 rad. Using round rather than flat tubes increases the overall volume but also increases the ratio of coolant in the direct air flow compared to a flat tubes rad with identical volume.

The number of passes though still has no ability to change the time that coolant is exposed to air flow.
If you made two rads with your tubes, one with multiple passes and one a simple U flow layout, the volume is the same. The ratio of coolant in the tubes to in the end tanks is the same. Given the same flow rate the coolant spends the same time in the rad. Only changing the number or size of tubes has an effect.

Thank you for clearing that up. I think it's best that users are as informed as possible and over simplifications can really lead people on the wrong track.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> re 'the fluid stays longer in the rad' ... maybe it is more accurate to say that these new rads you are looking at contain more fluid than other rads. So, while the flow rate is the same, the fluid does spend more time in these rads because it has further to travel.


THANK YOU! This explanation sounds easy enough to be understandable, but accurate enough to get the point across. I'll use that quote...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob You can quote me if you want on the description of your radiator cores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "_*Technically we could call this a Parallel Triple Tube, Hex Pass Finned Tube Core*_"
> 
> altering to suit the different models available
> BUT...that might just confuse people


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> PTTHPTC. Rolls right of the tongue...


...whereas I don't really see myself using THAT on any official statements
















By the way, for everybody still interested in the radiator designing and testing process: up until now, we did all our rads with 7mm tubes. That is the smallest industry standard. But recently, things started to evolve. We found a few suppliers who also started to offer 5mm tube based cores. So, as I said, nothing is fixed yet, and we are currently simulating a LOT of different layouts: how thick the whole package would become with 7mm vs 5mm tubes, how many passes we can cram in there, how the ratio of tube surface to fin surface would change, etc etc etc. It's pretty interesting right now! Unfortunately, "interesting" also means "time consuming", so... the timeframe moved further into Q4/2017 for a product release, I guess...


----------



## VSG

The scientific term best suited here is mean residence time.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> THANK YOU! This explanation sounds easy enough to be understandable, but accurate enough to get the point across. I'll use that quote...
> 
> ...whereas I don't really see myself using THAT on any official statements
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, for everybody still interested in the radiator designing and testing process: up until now, we did all our rads with 7mm tubes. That is the smallest industry standard. But recently, things started to evolve. We found a few suppliers who also started to offer 5mm tube based cores. So, as I said, nothing is fixed yet, and we are currently simulating a LOT of different layouts: how thick the whole package would become with 7mm vs 5mm tubes, how many passes we can cram in there, how the ratio of tube surface to fin surface would change, etc etc etc. It's pretty interesting right now! Unfortunately, "interesting" also means "time consuming", so... the timeframe moved further into Q4/2017 for a product release, I guess...


I don't know about trademarks, but Heatkiller Rad #Size (like Tube) works for me. That being said, I have nothing against MO-RA. I do think for the gaming market, it should be under the Heatkiller name. Heatkiller branded blocks and res... and then MO RA!... kinda seems off.

One thing I hope is still on the table are the customizable colored inserts or plating we talked about a while ago. While I like Primochill's new colored rads and HWL's colored options, but... I (and I think most) would prefer colored accents like on the Tube's struts. Basically a removable metal side plate that can either come painted or be painted by the user.

A super rough mock-up:


----------



## Revan654

One webstore is stating using any Mayhem Coolant voids the warranty of your products. Any truth to this or is it just AlphaCool playing dirty again? I know Mayhem & AlphaCool don't get along due to AlphaCool dirty tactics.

Mayhems fluids void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers:
Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
Use is therefore at one's own risk.
More info about Mayhems liquid can be found here:
https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> One webstore is stating using any Mayhem Coolant voids the warranty of your products. Any truth to this or is it just AlphaCool playing dirty again? I know Mayhem & AlphaCool don't get along due to AlphaCool dirty tactics.
> 
> Mayhems fluids void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers:
> Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
> Use is therefore at one's own risk.
> More info about Mayhems liquid can be found here:
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide


As far as I understood it from that thread, it's only on Alphacool and Phobya products that it's void. That said, I doubt there would be any way for them to actually verify this and I'm unsure if those terms of use even follow the German and EU directives concerning warranty.

Edit: Also just going to mention @Watercool-Jakob, since I'm curious to know the official stance from them as well.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> One webstore is stating using any Mayhem Coolant voids the warranty of your products. Any truth to this or is it just AlphaCool playing dirty again? I know Mayhem & AlphaCool don't get along due to AlphaCool dirty tactics.
> 
> Mayhems fluids void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers:
> Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
> Use is therefore at one's own risk.
> More info about Mayhems liquid can be found here:
> https://mayhems.co.uk/mayhems-coolant-guide


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As far as I understood it from that thread, it's only on Alphacool and Phobya products that it's void. That said, I doubt there would be any way for them to actually verify this and I'm unsure if those terms of use even follow the German and EU directives concerning warranty.
> 
> Edit: Also just going to mention @Watercool-Jakob, since I'm curious to know the official stance from them as well.


We stand by our statement in the original thread. Particle-based fluids (such as Mayhem's Aurora) DO void the guarantee. Everything else from them does NOT.

Guys,we are asking for your feedback and oinion once more: we want to support a few X299 motherboards with VRM water blocks, and ask for your opinions which boards will be the most popular and important to the community. Please vote in our poll and help us develop the RIGHT product for you, our cherished customers


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Really happy with my 200 D5 Red tube + led strip.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Guys,we are asking for your feedback and oinion once more: we want to support a few X299 motherboards with VRM water blocks, and ask for your opinions which boards will be the most popular and important to the community. Please vote in our poll and help us develop the RIGHT product for you, our cherished customers


If I had to pick 3: ASUS ROG Rampage VI Apex
Gigabyte X299 Aorus, and MSI X299 Gaming Pro Carbon.

If I had to pick one: ASUS ROG Rampage VI Apex.

I'm not in the market for X299 because the platform doesn't move the needless for raw FPS and I'm not interested in paying $1K to get >28 PCIE Lanes.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Guys,we are asking for your feedback and oinion once more: we want to support a few X299 motherboards with VRM water blocks, and ask for your opinions which boards will be the most popular and important to the community. Please vote in our poll and help us develop the RIGHT product for you, our cherished customers


See if you can get CAD files for various boards, as I bet multiple will share VRM designs and so one block will thus be compatible with more than one motherboard making it the best option to go with. I would say Asus Prime/ROG Strix-E seem to be one such combination based on what I have seen and that will be a popular combination too. Don't bother doing it for the boards that already come with heatpipes.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We stand by our statement in the original thread. Particle-based fluids (such as Mayhem's Aurora) DO void the guarantee. Everything else from them does NOT.
> 
> Guys,we are asking for your feedback and oinion once more: we want to support a few X299 motherboards with VRM water blocks, and ask for your opinions which boards will be the most popular and important to the community. Please vote in our poll and help us develop the RIGHT product for you, our cherished customers


Ok, good to know. Not sure what the hell AlphaCool issue has become. I think there just trying to get out of there warranty's and shifting blame to others instead of doing a recall on there products. I could go on a rant about all issues I had with there products & how bad there customer support is but I'll leave that for another thread.

As for x299 Asus will defiantly be brand that's most popular(Currently can't load there website with x299 motherboards & see what the boards look like). The Rampage board that would be my first choice to support.

I was wondering did you ever do a Monoblock/Motherboard Kit for Asus Rampage V Edition 10? I know you had a kit for older Rampage V.

Lastly Do you sell the black stuts for Reservoirs(The version that comes with reservoir by default)? I want to replace two of the stuts on my reservoirs with Black. I only see color versions.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was wondering did you ever do a Monoblock/Motherboard Kit for Asus Rampage V Edition 10? I know you had a kit for older Rampage V.
> 
> Lastly Do you sell the black stuts for Reservoirs(The version that comes with reservoir by default)? I want to replace two of the stuts on my reservoirs with Black. I only see color versions.


You can check with the Motherboard compatibility list that's also linked in my signature. There are three versions for that board: nickel/POM, Acryl/Nickel and smokey Acryl/Nickel.

No, we do not sell those struts as a standalone article. (I wonder why?) Please send me an email to [email protected] requesting those struts and providing your shipping address and I'll see how we can help you.

THanks to everyone for their thoughts on the X299 vrm topic. Did you guys also use the poll? Because I'd rather have a clear result then having to manually add or subtract weird numbers without knowing exactly if every person already DID vote and just told me to doublecheck or not or else or... You know?


----------



## VSG

I don't see any way to vote in there by the way. I can see the poll question and options but no way to select and submit.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> THanks to everyone for their thoughts on the X299 vrm topic. Did you guys also use the poll? Because I'd rather have a clear result then having to manually add or subtract weird numbers without knowing exactly if every person already DID vote and just told me to doublecheck or not or else or... You know?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't see any way to vote in there by the way. I can see the poll question and options but no way to select and submit.


Same here, there is no way to actually submit a vote other than just commenting.


----------



## khemist

Can someone tell me if the stock 1080ti FE backplate is compatible with the heatkiller block?, i'm selling my block and the guy wants to know, thanks.


----------



## snef

without modding, no


----------



## khemist

Ok, thanks.


----------



## snef

the last teaser of the Phoenix









cant wait to build another one with these, maybe with heatkiller rad????


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Lastly Do you sell the black stuts for Reservoirs(The version that comes with reservoir by default)? I want to replace two of the stuts on my reservoirs with Black. I only see color versions.


Thanks for your input. The black struts are now available in the shop: 100mm, 150mm and 200mm versions. English translation will come probably on the weekend, so I linked to the german articles









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't see any way to vote in there by the way. I can see the poll question and options but no way to select and submit.


Oh. Yes, you would need to be a loggedin registered user to vote.
Hm. That is suboptimal...
Next time I want to know something from the general public, I'll try to find a more open voting script. Sorry for that.

We'll probably implement it into the new website (ETA: when it's done).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the last teaser of the Phoenix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait to build another one with these, maybe with heatkiller rad????


This is beyond awesome! So looking forward to it!


----------



## l187l

I kinda did a quick search and scanned through this thread a little and didn't find anything about it, so I'll go ahead and ask.

Are you guys working on a threadripper block? If so, any ETA?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l187l*
> 
> I kinda did a quick search and scanned through this thread a little and didn't find anything about it, so I'll go ahead and ask.
> 
> Are you guys working on a threadripper block? If so, any ETA?


Yes, we will definitely bring out a complete new waterblock for Threadripper. New baseplate AND new top design, based on the HK IV. Think of it as a "Heatkiller 4.5" or something like that







I can't comment on the timing yet. We try to get it out as fast as possible


----------



## rolldog

I have a Heatkiller 150 reservoir that I'm not using, without a pump top or adapter kit for a D5 or a DDC pump, and I want to hook it up to a standalone D5 pump to flush my radiators before installing them in my build, but the ports on the 150 reservoir with no pump top aren't labeled as input or output. I'm assuming that neither one is labeled because it doesn't have a D5 or DDR kit attached to it yet. If this is the case, it shouldn't matter which on is the input of the output, right?


----------



## iamjanco

Voted (after creating a user account). You might want to add the Rampage VI Extreme (I chose the Apex).

Es ist eigentlich "suboptimal" weil the meisten hier lesen/sprechen (oder schwätzen) kaum Deutsch (außer ein Bier, bitte)







.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have a Heatkiller 150 reservoir that I'm not using, without a pump top or adapter kit for a D5 or a DDC pump, and I want to hook it up to a standalone D5 pump to flush my radiators before installing them in my build, but the ports on the 150 reservoir with no pump top aren't labeled as input or output. I'm assuming that neither one is labeled because it doesn't have a D5 or DDR kit attached to it yet. If this is the case, it shouldn't matter which on is the input of the output, right?


I also have a Heatkiller 150, with no pump top, not installed yet, for my Dual-D5 setup.

As you mentioned, the version with the pump top has the ports marked in or out:


The one without a pump top doesn't specify in or out:


The manual doesn't specify which ports to use either, for the version without a pump top.

I'm just going to use one of the bottom reservoir ports for the outlet, to my D5's inlet port.

I can't see why it would matter which side port you decide to use, for inlet or outlet.
But please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We stand by our statement in the original thread. Particle-based fluids (such as Mayhem's Aurora) DO void the guarantee. Everything else from them does NOT.
> 
> Guys,we are asking for your feedback and oinion once more: we want to support a few X299 motherboards with VRM water blocks, and ask for your opinions which boards will be the most popular and important to the community. Please vote in our poll and help us develop the RIGHT product for you, our cherished customers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> If I had to pick 3: ASUS ROG Rampage VI Apex
> Gigabyte X299 Aorus, and MSI X299 Gaming Pro Carbon.
> 
> If I had to pick one: ASUS ROG Rampage VI Apex.
> 
> I'm not in the market for X299 because the platform doesn't move the needless for raw FPS and I'm not interested in paying $1K to get >28 PCIE Lanes.
> 
> Same... Apex + block would be something I would look for if going x299.


----------



## snef

yeah same for me , I choose Rampage VI Apex, but to be honest I already have the Apex and I will order the block at the second they release one but no issue at all at this time

I will OC more really soon and look closer to VRM

maybe a full heatkiller motherboard block?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have a Heatkiller 150 reservoir that I'm not using, without a pump top or adapter kit for a D5 or a DDC pump, and I want to hook it up to a standalone D5 pump to flush my radiators before installing them in my build, but the ports on the 150 reservoir with no pump top aren't labeled as input or output. I'm assuming that neither one is labeled because it doesn't have a D5 or DDR kit attached to it yet. If this is the case, it shouldn't matter which on is the input of the output, right?


Exactly right. You can connect any port to your pump top's inlet. Be aware, though, that the right port in the bottom and the right port in the front are the same chamber, and the left port in the front and the left port in the bottom are one chamber. So, if you used a right port for outlet, please use a left port for inlet, or the other way round









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Voted (after creating a user account). You might want to add the Rampage VI Extreme (I chose the Apex).
> 
> Es ist eigentlich "suboptimal" weil the meisten hier lesen/sprechen (oder schwätzen) kaum Deutsch (außer ein Bier, bitte)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


We didn't include the Rampage VI Extreme because we expect ASUS to publish their own block rather soon. And we figured that we will probably not sell a lot of units versus that competition.

The english version of the text is in the bottom half









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yeah same for me , I choose Rampage VI Apex, but to be honest I already have the Apex and I will order the block at the second they release one but no issue at all at this time
> 
> I will OC more really soon and look closer to VRM
> 
> maybe a full heatkiller motherboard block?


Depends on what you mean by "full motherboard block". Monoblock (CPU and VRMs)? We like the idea and consider it. Blocks for the PCH? Unlikely. Modern day chipsets are so efficient that dedicated watercooling for them is not really necessary. Our company is driven by an engineer's point of view, not a salesman's. So, we always aim for the technically most elegant and relevant solution


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have a Heatkiller 150 reservoir that I'm not using, without a pump top or adapter kit for a D5 or a DDC pump, and I want to hook it up to a standalone D5 pump to flush my radiators before installing them in my build, but the ports on the 150 reservoir with no pump top aren't labeled as input or output. I'm assuming that neither one is labeled because it doesn't have a D5 or DDR kit attached to it yet. If this is the case, it shouldn't matter which on is the input of the output, right?
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly right. You can connect any port to your pump top's inlet. Be aware, though, that the right port in the bottom and the right port in the front are the same chamber, and the left port in the front and the left port in the bottom are one chamber. So, if you used a right port for outlet, please use a left port for inlet, or the other way round
Click to expand...

Edit:
You explained that really well.

I find that looking at the photo again, helps to illustrate the bottom and front chambers, and ports, and it is very straight-forward.


I will have to line-up one of the bottom ports on mine, through the hole I drilled through my S8 midplate, to allow the reservoir to fill my pump top underneath.
But I also have the optional top with the ports, so the option is there to use one of those for the reservoir return port, if I don't use the opposite front port of the reservoir for that.


----------



## BucketInABucket

A picture of my PC during a power-on test as a teaser as to what is to come~



Yes, I'm aware the Heatkiller Tube isn't installed yet, the VPP755 I was using died so I'm waiting on an EK D5 PWM.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Depends on what you mean by "full motherboard block". Monoblock (CPU and VRMs)? We like the idea and consider it. Blocks for the PCH? Unlikely. Modern day chipsets are so efficient that dedicated watercooling for them is not really necessary. Our company is driven by an engineer's point of view, not a salesman's. So, we always aim for the technically most elegant and relevant solution


no need for PCH , just CPU+VRM
I think watercool design on a mono block will be insane
















if you need help, I have 2 Apex here,


----------



## paskowitz

Personally, one of my biggest problems with monoblocks is that pretty much all of them have clear acrylic faces that do not match their respective mobo's aesthetic. EK has kinda remedied this recently but not for the majority of their models. Even if it pushes the price north of $200, I would like to see more metal or colored plastic vs just translucent acrylic.


----------



## snef

some pics of Heatkiller piece of art





































http://www.overclock.net/t/1630508/sponsored-the-phoenix-asus-special-build/50_50#post_26241406


----------



## iamjanco

^ very nice, snef







Noted your use of the Rampage VI Apex, which hasn't hit the mainstream yet (can you hear me now, ASUS?).

Edited: my bad, wrong Apex. I was thinking of the x299 board.


----------



## fx3861

Nothing much to compare to others, but still under planning


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> ^ very nice, snef
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noted your use of the Rampage VI Apex, which hasn't hit the mainstream yet (can you hear me now, ASUS?).
> 
> Edited: my bad, wrong Apex. I was thinking of the x299 board.


Thanks and yes , its the Rampage VI Apex X299 in this build







, this build is made for Asus Republic of gamer directly, thats why i received the board before release date


----------



## iamjanco

^ Ah, so it is the x299 version... I thought I was seeing things.

Have you shipped it to ASUS yet?


----------



## snef

nope, still on my desk


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> nope, still on my desk


That looks absolutely spectacular snef


----------



## snef

Thanks


----------



## outofmyheadyo

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/17000

As I tend to swap my GPU-s out quite often, I was lookin for an universal block that I could just keep reusing, but I didnt find any info on it on your site.
If I go for the heatkiller x3 LT universal block, does it have enough height to work for wider cards like the classifieds and by the looks of it zotac-s amp series is a bit wider than the founders cards aswell.
What I mean is can I still access both side of the ports with wider cards ?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> nope, still on my desk
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome look!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> some pics of Heatkiller piece of art
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1630508/sponsored-the-phoenix-asus-special-build/50_50#post_26241406


Oh man! Snef, you really outdid yourself! Great looking build!
I have but one small comment: we strongly recommend connecting the GPU block the other way round from how you did it, so that the inlet is on the "left" side (the side that's closest to the I/O bracket of the card). This way, the fluid is forced through the jet plate above the core area. This improves temperatures by 3-8°C and also slightly improves flow rate. The way you set it up also works, of course!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> 
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/17000
> 
> As I tend to swap my GPU-s out quite often, I was lookin for an universal block that I could just keep reusing, but I didnt find any info on it on your site.
> If I go for the heatkiller x3 LT universal block, does it have enough height to work for wider cards like the classifieds and by the looks of it zotac-s amp series is a bit wider than the founders cards aswell.
> What I mean is can I still access both side of the ports with wider cards ?


Well, You'd have to check this with the dimensions of the desired cards. You can look up the block's dimensions in our download area and compare it to different cards - there are just too many different layouts out there for me to make one definite answer for all of them.
I'd also like to recommend the GPU X3 Core 60 DIY kit which basically consists of a Core LT and a microSW-X 60 VRM block. With this setup, you can also integrate the VRMs of your card into your cooling loop. I personally ran that setup on two different cards in my private rig:

Sapphire 7870XT



Sapphire R9 290X

I used an oversize copper baseplate here and glued passive heatsinks on the additional area. Probably didn't hurt, either


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Oh man! Snef, you really outdid yourself! Great looking build!
> I have but one small comment: we strongly recommend connecting the GPU block the other way round from how you did it, so that the inlet is on the "left" side (the side that's closest to the I/O bracket of the card). This way, the fluid is forced through the jet plate above the core area. This improves temperatures by 3-8°C and also slightly improves flow rate. The way you set it up also works, of course! /quote]
> 
> thnaks a lot,
> 
> already run very cool ,


----------



## ruffhi

Q: Any issues involved if I paint the 'legs' of the CPU block?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Q: Any issues involved if I paint the 'legs' of the CPU block?


no. I did that to mine and no problems at all:


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks ... I'll need to refresh my memory of what the motherboard looks like so i can decide on a color.


----------



## BucketInABucket

My build's done at last! Here's some glamour shots:


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BucketInABucket*
> 
> My build's done at last! Here's some glamour shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build. I really like how the white in the tubing is so bright in contrast to the rest of the build.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Nice looking build. I really like how the white in the tubing is so bright in contrast to the rest of the build.


Thank you! I'm using some really spiffy Nanoxia white LED fittings which were a pain in the ass to use but the results are so cool!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Do your AM4 ready waterblocks need any additional backplates, or do they use the stock amd ones ?
Searched around your site but didnt see any AMD backplates, currently have an EK block for my cpu, but I am so done with EK.
Also any ETA on threadripper blocks? Since they are so big I doubt current blocks will fit.


----------



## iamjanco

Considering the options for TR4 and x299: does anyone know if any of Watercool's generic vrm blocks would work well for use with either? TIA!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Considering the options for TR4 and x299: does anyone know if any of Watercool's generic vrm blocks would work well for use with either? TIA!


The DIY ones should work as far as I know, though you will have to cut the plate to size and drill the mounting holes. I think both Alphacool and Koolance has something similar if watercool isn't available, though watercool has more alternatives regarding block design. If those don't sound apetizing to you then perhaps EKWBs monoblocks would be a good fit if they make one for the particular board that you want and you don't mind having to buy a new CPU block when you upgrade later on.


----------



## iamjanco

^ Thanks, that's what I figured, just wanted to make sure. Size looks about right, and trimming the base plate and drilling holes is np at this end.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yes, we will definitely bring out a complete new waterblock for Threadripper. New baseplate AND new top design, based on the HK IV. Think of it as a "Heatkiller 4.5" or something like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't comment on the timing yet. We try to get it out as fast as possible


Glad to see an update on this







I am going to do my best to hold out for this but the wait may kill me


----------



## Ascendic

Hello Everyone,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I am hoping someone here or maybe the watercool rep can answer a few questions. I am looking to replace my EK block with a Heatkiller IV as I noticed the jet plate on my EK is completely plugged from my six month trial of Aurora which didn't work out (absolutely the best looking coolant period, oh how I wish they could make a more functional version). I thought it might be best to move to a design with no jet plate even though I will be changing out the coolant (likely to pastel).

What exactly is the difference between the Heatkiller IV Pro clean and the hwluxx variant? I have been unable to find this information with my google foo anywhere.

I am also dismantling the system to clean all the blocks due to the aurora particles plugging up everything and it appears that I cannot open the heatkiller block on my gtx1070 without unmounting it from the card, is this correct? If so I will likely need replacement thermal pads of which I can only find for the 1080 ftw edition on the watercool site. Do these also work for the 1070 founders block? Also what about pads for the backplate? I suppose I could always try to find somewhere that sells the right thickness of pads and cut them all to fit if I have to.

PS I absolutely LOVE







the heatkiller block for my 1070. Excellent quality and sexy as hell. This was my first heatkiller block and I am very impressed. I am also a long time aquacomputer customer and let me tell you that you are their only real competitor in my books. However they're stuff is often hard to find and I end up ordering most of it direct from them in Germany. I love their pure copper solderless/weldless rads and their glass reservoirs and I have several of them. Does watercool currently have a plan to release anything similar?

I am also very seriously considering a threadripper build and would love to know when the new block becomes available. I was going to post some vids of my aurora build but it seems the got corrupted on my phone somehow along with the pics....time for a new phone, really upset about that


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Long time lurker, first time poster. I am hoping someone here or maybe the watercool rep can answer a few questions. I am looking to replace my EK block with a Heatkiller IV as I noticed the jet plate on my EK is completely plugged from my six month trial of Aurora which didn't work out (absolutely the best looking coolant period, oh how I wish they could make a more functional version). I thought it might be best to move to a design with no jet plate even though I will be changing out the coolant (likely to pastel).
> 
> What exactly is the difference between the Heatkiller IV Pro clean and the hwluxx variant? I have been unable to find this information with my google foo anywhere.
> 
> I am also dismantling the system to clean all the blocks due to the aurora particles plugging up everything and it appears that I cannot open the heatkiller block on my gtx1070 without unmounting it from the card, is this correct? If so I will likely need replacement thermal pads of which I can only find for the 1080 ftw edition on the watercool site. Do these also work for the 1070 founders block? Also what about pads for the backplate? I suppose I could always try to find somewhere that sells the right thickness of pads and cut them all to fit if I have to.
> 
> PS I absolutely LOVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the heatkiller block for my 1070. Excellent quality and sexy as hell. This was my first heatkiller block and I am very impressed. I am also a long time aquacomputer customer and let me tell you that you are their only real competitor in my books. However they're stuff is often hard to find and I end up ordering most of it direct from them in Germany. I love their pure copper solderless/weldless rads and their glass reservoirs and I have several of them. Does watercool currently have a plan to release anything similar?
> 
> I am also very seriously considering a threadripper build and would love to know when the new block becomes available. I was going to post some vids of my aurora build but it seems the got corrupted on my phone somehow along with the pics....time for a new phone, really upset about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> I feel you on the aurora it is some of the sickest looking coolant but a pain in the but to work with. I recommend breaking your blocks completely down as that stuff even gets into the o rings. As for the thermal pads you should be able to reuse them unless they have really dried out unlike paste that can get air trapped in if you reuse thermal pads are easy to work with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## Ascendic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Long time lurker, first time poster. I am hoping someone here or maybe the watercool rep can answer a few questions. I am looking to replace my EK block with a Heatkiller IV as I noticed the jet plate on my EK is completely plugged from my six month trial of Aurora which didn't work out (absolutely the best looking coolant period, oh how I wish they could make a more functional version). I thought it might be best to move to a design with no jet plate even though I will be changing out the coolant (likely to pastel).
> 
> What exactly is the difference between the Heatkiller IV Pro clean and the hwluxx variant? I have been unable to find this information with my google foo anywhere.
> 
> I am also dismantling the system to clean all the blocks due to the aurora particles plugging up everything and it appears that I cannot open the heatkiller block on my gtx1070 without unmounting it from the card, is this correct? If so I will likely need replacement thermal pads of which I can only find for the 1080 ftw edition on the watercool site. Do these also work for the 1070 founders block? Also what about pads for the backplate? I suppose I could always try to find somewhere that sells the right thickness of pads and cut them all to fit if I have to.
> 
> PS I absolutely LOVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the heatkiller block for my 1070. Excellent quality and sexy as hell. This was my first heatkiller block and I am very impressed. I am also a long time aquacomputer customer and let me tell you that you are their only real competitor in my books. However they're stuff is often hard to find and I end up ordering most of it direct from them in Germany. I love their pure copper solderless/weldless rads and their glass reservoirs and I have several of them. Does watercool currently have a plan to release anything similar?
> 
> I am also very seriously considering a threadripper build and would love to know when the new block becomes available. I was going to post some vids of my aurora build but it seems the got corrupted on my phone somehow along with the pics....time for a new phone, really upset about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> I feel you on the aurora it is some of the sickest looking coolant but a pain in the but to work with. I recommend breaking your blocks completely down as that stuff even gets into the o rings. As for the thermal pads you should be able to reuse them unless they have really dried out unlike paste that can get air trapped in if you reuse thermal pads are easy to work with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> The pads I have used in the past were fairly soft and were quite squished after mounting. I was worried about the pads being squished and not making proper contact with the block of I tried to reuse them.
Click to expand...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Q: Any issues involved if I paint the 'legs' of the CPU block?


Let me get the legal business out of the way first: if you modify any part of our products, this will void the guarantee for that part. (I'm sorry, but my boss wanted me to explicitly say that







) So, if you would paint the holding brackets, we cannot guarantee for them anymore - but we would of course still guarantee for the gaskets or the fins, etc...

Now that that's out of the way: the holding brackets don't really "do" anything, so there's not much to destroy anyways. Make sure that you apply only thin layers of paint so that the bracket can still easily slip into its groove, and you should be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BucketInABucket*
> 
> My build's done at last! Here's some glamour shots:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for sharing (although I would recommend a different CPU block, surprisingly







)! The white coolant looks awesome with those Nanoxia fittings!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Do your AM4 ready waterblocks need any additional backplates, or do they use the stock amd ones ?
> Searched around your site but didnt see any AMD backplates, currently have an EK block for my cpu, but I am so done with EK.
> Also any ETA on threadripper blocks? Since they are so big I doubt current blocks will fit.


You simply use the stock backplates that come with the mainboard.
No ETA on the Threadripper block, though. We are working on it and know that you guys are desperately waiting, so we really hurry up!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Considering the options for TR4 and x299: does anyone know if any of Watercool's generic vrm blocks would work well for use with either? TIA!


Well, the SW-X DIY kits are generic - so they work on pretty much any motherboard. We do expect them to be compatible with the newest boards, too.
We are also planning to support some ASUS motherboards with dedicated VRM blocks. Right now, we plan on the Rampage VI Apex and the X299 Prime boards, but this might be subject to change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> Long time lurker, first time poster. I am hoping someone here or maybe the watercool rep can answer a few questions. I am looking to replace my EK block with a Heatkiller IV as I noticed the jet plate on my EK is completely plugged from my six month trial of Aurora which didn't work out (absolutely the best looking coolant period, oh how I wish they could make a more functional version). I thought it might be best to move to a design with no jet plate even though I will be changing out the coolant (likely to pastel).


Good choice of changing the block







I have to say, though, that you would very likely see clogging with our block and six months of Aurora, too. Aurora has always been a show liquid and was never designed for everyday usage. In fact, Mayhem explicitly stated themselves that you shouldn't run Aurora for longer than 14 days. Even their current product guide warns against using it as a home system fluid.
Quote:


> What exactly is the difference between the Heatkiller IV Pro clean and the hwluxx variant? I have been unable to find this information with my google foo anywhere.


The Acryl Clean version comes in the standard Heatkiller IV design with the step in the middle, whereas the HWLuxx special edition comes with a completely flat surface.
 vs 
Quote:


> I am also dismantling the system to clean all the blocks due to the aurora particles plugging up everything and it appears that I cannot open the heatkiller block on my gtx1070 without unmounting it from the card, is this correct? If so I will likely need replacement thermal pads of which I can only find for the 1080 ftw edition on the watercool site. Do these also work for the 1070 founders block? Also what about pads for the backplate? I suppose I could always try to find somewhere that sells the right thickness of pads and cut them all to fit if I have to.


That is correct for every water block I know of. Please ALWAYS remove the block from the component before opening it. Otherwise, you will most likely get drops of liquid on your component which might cause damage to it. Do never cut the corner when it comes to safety in regards to liquidcooling and electrical components!
Regarding the thermal pads: you can usually use them multiple times. No need to replace them, unless they are completely torn.
Quote:


> PS I absolutely LOVE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the heatkiller block for my 1070. Excellent quality and sexy as hell. This was my first heatkiller block and I am very impressed. I am also a long time aquacomputer customer and let me tell you that you are their only real competitor in my books. However they're stuff is often hard to find and I end up ordering most of it direct from them in Germany. I love their pure copper solderless/weldless rads and their glass reservoirs and I have several of them. Does watercool currently have a plan to release anything similar?


We already have! Both our HTSF2 and MO-RA3 radiators are solder-free pipe radiators. And the next generation of radiators that we will publish later this year will also be! And our Heatkiller Tube reservoirs come with a tube from borosilicate glass


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well, the SW-X DIY kits are generic - so they work on pretty much any motherboard. We do expect them to be compatible with the newest boards, too.
> We are also planning to support some ASUS motherboards with dedicated VRM blocks. Right now, we plan on the Rampage VI Apex and the X299 Prime boards, but this might be subject to change.


Thanks for the update, Jakob, and the heads up about the dedicated blocks for the Asus boards


----------



## Ascendic

I was able to recover some pictures of the aurora build but they are all low quality thumbnails unfortunately. The full images are gone















Edit: Found slightly higher quality ones but they are being downsized when I embed them so I'll have to upload somewhere else I guess.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> I was able to recover some pictures of the aurora build but they are all liw quality thumbnails unfortunately. The full images are gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Found slightly higher quality ones but they are being downsized when I embed them so I'll have to upload somewhere else I guess.


I feel your pain on the loss of data... Living in a digital age has some serious downsides when it comes to holding on to older stuff, though that doesn't even come close to weighing out the upsides to it. I'm personally looking at doing a collection of archival grade DVDs or blue-rays for long term storage of my photos and other things that I can't really afford to loose, I'd prefer being able to laser etch hte binary in crystals, but there isn't really any practical way of writing and reading that at present time so archival optical disks seems like my best option.

Now as for the way photos work on OCN, when uploading or linking to an image you can always click it and choose "original" to get to a link that shows the full sized image as shown below:


There is also an interesting section in the code for images that is used on this forum, between the brackets that say "IMG" there will be a link for the stored image. At the end of it there will be something like "/width/350/height/70", these numbers can be changed to any value that you want and that way you can set a custom image size for you post. Don't abuse this though, as people can see the full sized image by clicking it, so there is no need to do anything like "/width/5184/height/3456" as that will only make the forum thread difficult to navigate. Keep in mind the same principles that webdesigners use, at max set the width of the image to the width of the most common lower resolution that is in use. When I learned HTML that was 1024x768, so 1024 would be the max width. Today though, with the popularity of smartphones with high resolution screens, a max width that is sensible would be 720pixels as there are still a lot of phones with 720x1280.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ascendic*
> 
> I was able to recover some pictures of the aurora build but they are all liw quality thumbnails unfortunately. The full images are gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Found slightly higher quality ones but they are being downsized when I embed them so I'll have to upload somewhere else I guess.


Aurora is a slippery mistress...We've had some good times and some bad times. Thanks for sharing though, looks great! I'm just about to finish up my build with my heatkiller gpu block and I'm really fighting the temptation to dump my "emergency liter" of aurora in there


----------



## LiquidHaus

Looking forward to see what you guys come up with for Threadripper. I plan to put my order in August 10th, cannot wait for it, and all the video content it'll provide.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Q: Any issues involved if I paint the 'legs' of the CPU block?
> 
> 
> 
> Let me get the legal business out of the way first: if you modify any part of our products, this will void the guarantee for that part. (I'm sorry, but my boss wanted me to explicitly say that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) So, if you would paint the holding brackets, we cannot guarantee for them anymore - but we would of course still guarantee for the gaskets or the fins, etc...
> 
> Now that that's out of the way: the holding brackets don't really "do" anything, so there's not much to destroy anyways. Make sure that you apply only thin layers of paint so that the bracket can still easily slip into its groove, and you should be fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info ... especially the part about voiding the warrantee. I got some 3" wide white electricians tape the other day ... I have already modified the 16063 backplate that I got a few days ago with this tape ... I might modify the brackets with the tap too.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for sharing (although I would recommend a different CPU block, surprisingly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )! The white coolant looks awesome with those Nanoxia fittings!


Thank you! I'm tempted to switched to a H IV block if/when I upgrade my CPU to a Ryzen chip, though, as it's been on my mind for a while now







and I lust for those extra cores...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the info ... especially the part about voiding the warrantee. I got some 3" wide white electricians tape the other day ... I have already modified the 16063 backplate that I got a few days ago with this tape ... I might modify the brackets with the tap too.


Okay, wrapping it in electricians tape shouldn't be any problem at all. The groove is tight, but not THAT tight


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No ETA on the Threadripper block, though. We are working on it and know that you guys are desperately waiting, so we really hurry up!


I know whatever you come up with will work awesome








But given that we now know that Threadripper uses two dies in a diagonal mounted pattern, have you given any thought to whether or not with its massive size and the spread apart mounting distance that you could try two jet plates? with two inlets and two outlets per block? End users could either use these for two separate loops, or run it in serial and go in above one die, out the block, in above the other die and then back out the block. Maybe that wouldnt be a good design, but it was just an interesting thought Id have and wondered if you thought about running the numbers on that or not.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I know whatever you come up with will work awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But given that we now know that Threadripper uses two dies in a diagonal mounted pattern, have you given any thought to whether or not with its massive size and the spread apart mounting distance that you could try two jet plates? with two inlets and two outlets per block? End users could either use these for two separate loops, or run it in serial and go in above one die, out the block, in above the other die and then back out the block. Maybe that wouldnt be a good design, but it was just an interesting thought Id have and wondered if you thought about running the numbers on that or not.


In the olden days the "stinger" blocks used a dual outlet design  and more recently by swifttec. I have owned both and while the stinger blocks will always hold a special place in heart (first water block I ever owned







) the added complexity was a pain to work with.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Loving my new Heatkiller IV cpu block. Thing feels heavier than the whole motherboard assembly.





Plan is to add a heatkiller GPU block when I upgrade graphics card in the coming months.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Loving my new Heatkiller IV cpu block. Thing feels heavier than the whole motherboard assembly.


Which is true!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Fished out the GPU, block and the new backplate. This will be fun. Except ... I can't seem to get the backplate to line up with the screw holes. What is going on? Did I end up ordering the wrong backplate?
> 
> This doc (http://gpu.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_GPU_Compatibility.pdf) says that I didn't ...
> 
> _EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 FTW GAMING - 06G-P4-6268 GTX ... back plate #16063_
> 
> But the holes don't line up


Worked out what I was doing wrong. Apparently, the back plate goes on the GPU upside down.

The 'heatkiller' label on the back plate is placed such that you can read it looking into a case with a vertical motherboard (ie horizontal GPU).

My case (Mercury S5) has a horizontal motherboard. As such, the GPU stands up ... with the water block facing out (ie away from the CPU) and the back plate facing in (towards the CPU). This means that the 'heatkiller' label is upside down.

Great. I'll have to give this some thought.


----------



## Newtocooling

I'm setting up my Heatkiller 150mm Reservoir and D5 pump combo, after leak testing just the res and pump combo put together, I get a very slow leak. It took over 24 to empty, I tested with an air bubble mix, and cannot find a leak anywhere. I then decided to put a simple loop from the outlet back into the inlet up top no distilled water leaking either. Any ideas on where the leak might be happening?


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I'm setting up my Heatkiller 150mm Reservoir and D5 pump combo, after leak testing just the res and pump combo put together, I get a very slow leak. It took over 24 to empty, I tested with an air bubble mix, and cannot find a leak anywhere. I then decided to put a simple loop from the outlet back into the inlet up top no distilled water leaking either. Any ideas on where the leak might be happening?


Can you really not find the water? You got a slow leak with just the res/pump combo? Or was that with other components in the loop?

Maybe wrap it with dry paper towels and see where the towels start to get wet after turning on. If there are 12.5 ounces of water going somewhere, you should be able to capture something.


----------



## Aphrenedge

Hey guys,

After following this thread for some months I wanted to add a few photos of my own build, hope you enjoy them! Looking forward to seeing more awesome builds/projects on here.







I may add a couple more photos with the glass off later, that's if I ever get round to it.

If you'd like to see more photos there are pc partpicker links below.
Custom loop:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/DbKBD3
Air cooled:
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/M7WD4D

Also thank you Watercool/Jakob for providing the perfect blocks to complete my custom loop, well worth the wait!


----------



## Juub

I already made a thread in the NVIDIA section but just realized we had this. I'll basically be reposting the same questions.

I own a PNY 1080 Ti FE and would like to water cool it. Mainly for temps and noises purposes. The card goes over 70C under max load and at max RPM, the fans are too loud. During a hot summer, gaming in the same room as it is very inconvenient. Things I need to know:

1. I have a Cooler Master Haf 932 Case, 5 Disks, 2 sticks of RAM and most importantly a Corsair H60 pump and fan for my 4790K. Despite my case being full tower, I don't see where I could even fit a water block in there.

2. What would the best water block be at 200USD or below? What kinds are compatible? Would a 1070 water block be compatible? What about 1080?

3. What kind of temps/noise will I be looking it with said block?

4. How will this affect my cable management?

5. Should I have the water block pre-filled or do it myself? They charge 30$ for pre-filling on EK.

Thank you all in advance for your precious answers. thumb.gif


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Let me start with some Info about the Threadripper blocks: principal design is done, based on all theoretical data that we got. We have narrowed down the block layout to two versions that perform equally good in the simulations. We are now waiting to get a physical sample of the CPU and a motherboard to test both prototypes in real world. When we have decided on the final layout, we will start producing and selling it. We currently aim for a release at end of August.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Loving my new Heatkiller IV cpu block. Thing feels heavier than the whole motherboard assembly.
> [*IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3091397/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> Plan is to add a heatkiller GPU block when I upgrade graphics card in the coming months.


Oh my god that looks so cute! The teeny tiny motherboard there







Thanks for sharing!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I'm setting up my Heatkiller 150mm Reservoir and D5 pump combo, after leak testing just the res and pump combo put together, I get a very slow leak. It took over 24 to empty, I tested with an air bubble mix, and cannot find a leak anywhere. I then decided to put a simple loop from the outlet back into the inlet up top no distilled water leaking either. Any ideas on where the leak might be happening?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Can you really not find the water? You got a slow leak with just the res/pump combo? Or was that with other components in the loop?
> 
> Maybe wrap it with dry paper towels and see where the towels start to get wet after turning on. If there are 12.5 ounces of water going somewhere, you should be able to capture something.


It's really hard to diagnose anything from far away. First, I would recommend disassembling the pump from the reservoir. Check the O-ring. Is it warped? Tilted? Does any spot look or feel different than the rest of the ring? Next up, when reassembling it, moisten the o-ring. I always have a bowl with distilled water next to me when building loops. I simply throw all gaskets/O-Rings/fittings in there, so they are clean and the o-rings are all moistened when installing them. A dry o-ring can "stick" to the surfaces and then become stretched in one spot when tightening everything down, leading to a small leak.
Other than that: do as steadly2004 suggested and wrap the whole thing in paper towels. This should at least give you the exact location of the leak.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aphrenedge*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> After following this thread for some months I wanted to add a few photos of my own build, hope you enjoy them! Looking forward to seeing more awesome builds/projects on here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may add a couple more photos with the glass off later, that's if I ever get round to it.
> 
> Also thank you Watercool/Jakob for providing the perfect blocks to complete my custom loop, well worth the wait!


Oh wow, this really looks unique! I'd be highly interested in some shots without the glass!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juub*
> 
> I already made a thread in the NVIDIA section but just realized we had this. I'll basically be reposting the same questions.
> 
> I own a PNY 1080 Ti FE and would like to water cool it. Mainly for temps and noises purposes. The card goes over 70C under max load and at max RPM, the fans are too loud. During a hot summer, gaming in the same room as it is very inconvenient. Things I need to know:
> 
> 1. I have a Cooler Master Haf 932 Case, 5 Disks, 2 sticks of RAM and most importantly a Corsair H60 pump and fan for my 4790K. Despite my case being full tower, I don't see where I could even fit a water block in there.
> 
> 2. What would the best water block be at 200USD or below? What kinds are compatible? Would a 1070 water block be compatible? What about 1080?
> 
> 3. What kind of temps/noise will I be looking it with said block?
> 
> 4. How will this affect my cable management?
> 
> 5. Should I have the water block pre-filled or do it myself? They charge 30$ for pre-filling on EK.
> 
> Thank you all in advance for your precious answers. thumb.gif


Hm, this is the support thread for a specific company. Of course, a I (and the other users in this thread) can help you, but please be aware that I can only speak for our company, not for any other.

1) Your case isn't ideal for installing a custom loop, that is true. But I feel like you are mixing up the terminology: the water block fits onto the graphics card itself, replacing the blower cooler and heatsink. The radiator would have to fit into the case itself. Your case can fit up to a 3x120 radiator, according to CoolerMaster. But I THINK that you would need to remove the 5,25'' bays then.
2) Only blocks explicitely compatible with 1080Ti will fit. The 1070 and 1080 are based on the same PCB and blocks are compatible with both of these, but the 1080Ti has a completely different PCB and thus needs a completely different block. We offer blocks for the 1080Ti and blocks that are compatible with both TITAN X(p) and 1080Ti. I cannot comment on the product portfolio of our competitors.
3) This highly depends on your radiators, actually, and on each other. Cooling a single 1080Ti with a 2x120mm radiator and slow fans will yield worse temperatures than 2 4x140mm radiators with fast spinning fans. As a general rule of thumb, you will get better temps and less noise than with the stock blower style air cooler, that is for sure!
4) Not at all. The tubes have nothing to do with the cables. It will, of course, affect the overall aesthetics of the interior of your case!
5) I cannot comment on competitor's business practices (even though I have a strong opinion on especially this one. Spoiler alert: not the best opinion.).

You would also need an additional pump and reservoir, which might be hard to fit into your case if you really need all those drives. And I would recommend to go the extra mile and get rid of the Corsair H60 and install a real water block instead. But to be honest: I don't think that this is actually the best way to go for you. Even though I'd love to sell you some premium components (and my boss would LOVE me for it, too







), I don't think that this will really satisfy you right now. You would pretty much have to change your case and invest quite some money. Maybe, looking for an aftermarket air cooler (Raijintek Morpheus or Arctic Accelero for example) would suit you better. To start of a full custom loop, you should first start reading and educate yourself on all the required components.
I'll be very happy to be wrong on this one and help you put together matching components from us, if you decide to go this way, though


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Let me start with some Info about the Threadripper blocks: principal design is done, based on all theoretical data that we got. We have narrowed down the block layout to two versions that perform equally good in the simulations. We are now waiting to get a physical sample of the CPU and a motherboard to test both prototypes in real world. When we have decided on the final layout, we will start producing and selling it. We currently aim for a release at end of August.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my god that looks so cute! The teeny tiny motherboard there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing!
> 
> It's really hard to diagnose anything from far away. First, I would recommend disassembling the pump from the reservoir. Check the O-ring. Is it warped? Tilted? Does any spot look or feel different than the rest of the ring? Next up, when reassembling it, moisten the o-ring. I always have a bowl with distilled water next to me when building loops. I simply throw all gaskets/O-Rings/fittings in there, so they are clean and the o-rings are all moistened when installing them. A dry o-ring can "stick" to the surfaces and then become stretched in one spot when tightening everything down, leading to a small leak.
> Other than that: do as steadly2004 suggested and wrap the whole thing in paper towels. This should at least give you the exact location of the leak.
> Oh wow, this really looks unique! I'd be highly interested in some shots without the glass!
> Hm, this is the support thread for a specific company. Of course, a I (and the other users in this thread) can help you, but please be aware that I can only speak for our company, not for any other.
> 
> 1) Your case isn't ideal for installing a custom loop, that is true. But I feel like you are mixing up the terminology: the water block fits onto the graphics card itself, replacing the blower cooler and heatsink. The radiator would have to fit into the case itself. Your case can fit up to a 3x120 radiator, according to CoolerMaster. But I THINK that you would need to remove the 5,25'' bays then.
> 2) Only blocks explicitely compatible with 1080Ti will fit. The 1070 and 1080 are based on the same PCB and blocks are compatible with both of these, but the 1080Ti has a completely different PCB and thus needs a completely different block. We offer blocks for the 1080Ti and blocks that are compatible with both TITAN X(p) and 1080Ti. I cannot comment on the product portfolio of our competitors.
> 3) This highly depends on your radiators, actually, and on each other. Cooling a single 1080Ti with a 2x120mm radiator and slow fans will yield worse temperatures than 2 4x140mm radiators with fast spinning fans. As a general rule of thumb, you will get better temps and less noise than with the stock blower style air cooler, that is for sure!
> 4) Not at all. The tubes have nothing to do with the cables. It will, of course, affect the overall aesthetics of the interior of your case!
> 5) I cannot comment on competitor's business practices (even though I have a strong opinion on especially this one. Spoiler alert: not the best opinion.).
> 
> You would also need an additional pump and reservoir, which might be hard to fit into your case if you really need all those drives. And I would recommend to go the extra mile and get rid of the Corsair H60 and install a real water block instead. But to be honest: I don't think that this is actually the best way to go for you. Even though I'd love to sell you some premium components (and my boss would LOVE me for it, too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I don't think that this will really satisfy you right now. You would pretty much have to change your case and invest quite some money. Maybe, looking for an aftermarket air cooler (Raijintek Morpheus or Arctic Accelero for example) would suit you better. To start of a full custom loop, you should first start reading and educate yourself on all the required components.
> I'll be very happy to be wrong on this one and help you put together matching components from us, if you decide to go this way, though


That is great news







I can _probably_ hold out that long


----------



## EniGma1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juub*
> 
> I already made a thread in the NVIDIA section but just realized we had this. I'll basically be reposting the same questions.
> 
> I own a PNY 1080 Ti FE and would like to water cool it. Mainly for temps and noises purposes. The card goes over 70C under max load and at max RPM, the fans are too loud. During a hot summer, gaming in the same room as it is very inconvenient. Things I need to know:
> 
> 1. I have a Cooler Master Haf 932 Case, 5 Disks, 2 sticks of RAM and most importantly a Corsair H60 pump and fan for my 4790K. Despite my case being full tower, I don't see where I could even fit a water block in there.
> 
> 2. What would the best water block be at 200USD or below? What kinds are compatible? Would a 1070 water block be compatible? What about 1080?
> 
> 3. What kind of temps/noise will I be looking it with said block?
> 
> 4. How will this affect my cable management?
> 
> 5. Should I have the water block pre-filled or do it myself? They charge 30$ for pre-filling on EK.
> 
> Thank you all in advance for your precious answers. thumb.gif


A res, pump, some tubing, and a GPU block will probably cost you $200 or a bit over (depending on pump model and reservoir you want), so you might want to wait to watercool the CPU till later down the road.

With the Heatkiller block on my GPU I run at 42 degrees max load temp, with a bit higher ambients than most. They are really good blocks and keep the OC frequency nice and stable. I used to bounce all around between 1850-2050MHz with the stock air cooler. The Heatkiller block keeps me at a perfect steady 2050.
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15580


----------



## Juub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 1) Your case isn't ideal for installing a custom loop, that is true. But I feel like you are mixing up the terminology: the water block fits onto the graphics card itself, replacing the blower cooler and heatsink. The radiator would have to fit into the case itself. Your case can fit up to a 3x120 radiator, according to CoolerMaster. But I THINK that you would need to remove the 5,25'' bays then.
> 2) Only blocks explicitely compatible with 1080Ti will fit. The 1070 and 1080 are based on the same PCB and blocks are compatible with both of these, but the 1080Ti has a completely different PCB and thus needs a completely different block. We offer blocks for the 1080Ti and blocks that are compatible with both TITAN X(p) and 1080Ti. I cannot comment on the product portfolio of our competitors.
> 3) This highly depends on your radiators, actually, and on each other. Cooling a single 1080Ti with a 2x120mm radiator and slow fans will yield worse temperatures than 2 4x140mm radiators with fast spinning fans. As a general rule of thumb, you will get better temps and less noise than with the stock blower style air cooler, that is for sure!
> 4) Not at all. The tubes have nothing to do with the cables. It will, of course, affect the overall aesthetics of the interior of your case!
> 5) I cannot comment on competitor's business practices (even though I have a strong opinion on especially this one. Spoiler alert: not the best opinion.).
> 
> You would also need an additional pump and reservoir, which might be hard to fit into your case if you really need all those drives. And I would recommend to go the extra mile and get rid of the Corsair H60 and install a real water block instead. But to be honest: I don't think that this is actually the best way to go for you. Even though I'd love to sell you some premium components (and my boss would LOVE me for it, too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), I don't think that this will really satisfy you right now. You would pretty much have to change your case and invest quite some money. Maybe, looking for an aftermarket air cooler (Raijintek Morpheus or Arctic Accelero for example) would suit you better. To start of a full custom loop, you should first start reading and educate yourself on all the required components.
> I'll be very happy to be wrong on this one and help you put together matching components from us, if you decide to go this way, though


1. Should I replace my case? Would you recommend something in particular? Keep in mind, I've never done a custom loop before but I feel comfortable taking the challenge.

2. Thanks that's what I figured.

3. If I want quiet and low temps in the order of 40-50C, what would you recommend?

Yeah I do need all those drives but I wouldn't mind getting rid of the case if it meant I could fit everything in with no hassle. I want a nice system that is water cooled and quiet. Of course I'd rather not break the bank but if I could get all the components for 300$ USD or less(excluding the case) that would make me a happy camper. Though this might be a tall order considering the water block alone is half of that.

Wouldn't bother me to ditch the H60 either if I can save more space and get a better cooler.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juub*
> 
> 1. Should I replace my case? Would you recommend something in particular? Keep in mind, I've never done a custom loop before but I feel comfortable taking the challenge.
> 
> 2. Thanks that's what I figured.
> 
> 3. If I want quiet and low temps in the order of 40-50C, what would you recommend?
> 
> Yeah I do need all those drives but I wouldn't mind getting rid of the case if it meant I could fit everything in with no hassle. I want a nice system that is water cooled and quiet. Of course I'd rather not break the bank but if I could get all the components for 300$ USD or less(excluding the case) that would make me a happy camper. Though this might be a tall order considering the water block alone is half of that.
> 
> Wouldn't bother me to ditch the H60 either if I can save more space and get a better cooler.


I'm not sure you understand how water-cooling works, so I'd start by looking in to that first. As for the best option for you... I'm sorry to say that I wouldn't recommend any products form the company Watercool, or any products aimed at a custom loop to start with. The best option for you might just to get EVGA's hybrid kit, or get the NZXT Kraken G12 and one of the supported CLC units.

Start up by watching some videos on youtube on what exactly watercooling is, here is one by Jayz2Cents to start you off:





Honestly though I would really think that the hybrid kits are more up your alley, they offer an easy option in to water cooling and offer a significant improvement in temperatures. If you have more questions about the topic you can always check out the official watercooling thread on OCN for custom watercooling and "the mod" thread for hybrid questions. While you can get some answers in this thread, as @Watercool-Jakob mentioned this thread is only focused on 1 particular company named "Watercool" (which makes components for watercooling) while the others are far more suited for such general questions.


----------



## Juub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I'm not sure you understand how water-cooling works, so I'd start by looking in to that first. As for the best option for you... I'm sorry to say that I wouldn't recommend any products form the company Watercool, or any products aimed at a custom loop to start with. The best option for you might just to get EVGA's hybrid kit, or get the NZXT Kraken G12 and one of the supported CLC units.
> 
> Start up by watching some videos on youtube on what exactly watercooling is, here is one by Jayz2Cents to start you off:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly though I would really think that the hybrid kits are more up your alley, they offer an easy option in to water cooling and offer a significant improvement in temperatures. If you have more questions about the topic you can always check out the official watercooling thread on OCN for custom watercooling and "the mod" thread for hybrid questions. While you can get some answers in this thread, as @Watercool-Jakob mentioned this thread is only focused on 1 particular company named "Watercool" (which makes components for watercooling) while the others are far more suited for such general questions.


Thanks for the info and yeah don't have much experience with water cooling if at all. There's a guy with a workshop near where I live who does it but I'd rather take a stab at it myself. Otherwise I'll never get the hang of it.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juub*
> 
> Thanks for the info and yeah don't have much experience with water cooling if at all. There's a guy with a workshop near where I live who does it but I'd rather take a stab at it myself. Otherwise I'll never get the hang of it.


That is not a bad idea, but there are several factors to take in to account when doing this. So I would much rather start off by getting the performance that you want from a CLC and then maybe look at building a custom loop at a later date, though you should allocate about 500$ for that alone as it's best to go for quality on your first try so you don't get disappointed by the solutions used or the performance and looks that you get from it. It is possible to do this on a budget, but in many cases you get sub par solutions that really just make it more difficult for you in the long run or simply don't give you what you want.


----------



## Juub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That is not a bad idea, but there are several factors to take in to account when doing this. So I would much rather start off by getting the performance that you want from a CLC and then maybe look at building a custom loop at a later date, though you should allocate about 500$ for that alone as it's best to go for quality on your first try so you don't get disappointed by the solutions used or the performance and looks that you get from it. It is possible to do this on a budget, but in many cases you get sub par solutions that really just make it more difficult for you in the long run or simply don't give you what you want.


Alright thanks a lot. I'll look into that kit you linked and yeah 500$ is a lot. I'll probably invest that in my next build that'll be fully watercooled.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juub*
> 
> Alright thanks a lot. I'll look into that kit you linked and yeah 500$ is a lot. I'll probably invest that in my next build that'll be fully watercooled.


I'm not saying it's going to be 500$, it could very well be less or more for that matter, but it's a good value to dedicate to just the cooling aspect of it. Just don't go for any aluminium stuff as that seriously limits your options in the future.


----------



## Bart

Water cooling isn't a cheap endeavor, that's for sure. If you think $500 is a lot, just wait until you build a custom loop.







"Custom loop" and "budget" should never be in the same sentence together! Our local water cooling supplier in Canada, Daz, sells kits that contain typical custom loop parts, including a HeatKiller CPU block.

For example: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dual-radiator-ddc-pump-tank-reservoir-complete-watercoling-kit_rev5/

I find these kits to be a great idea for new guys. You *could* buy a closed loop cooler, then do a custom loop later on, but that's only going to cost you more money in the long run. Do lots of research, read up on water cooling, and maybe consider a kit similar to the link, if you can find one locally. They are a great way to get your feet wet (pun intended), and if you really get into WCing, the parts are transferable to other builds (rads / pump / CPU block). You'd just buy different fittings and tube, add more rads if you like, etc. It's a great starting point IMO.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Water cooling isn't a cheap endeavor, that's for sure. If you think $500 is a lot, just wait until you build a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *"Custom loop" and "budget" should never be in the same sentence together!* Our local water cooling supplier in Canada, Daz, sells kits that contain typical custom loop parts, including a HeatKiller CPU block.
> 
> For example: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/dual-radiator-ddc-pump-tank-reservoir-complete-watercoling-kit_rev5/
> 
> I find these kits to be a great idea for new guys. You *could* buy a closed loop cooler, then do a custom loop later on, but that's only going to cost you more money in the long run. Do lots of research, read up on water cooling, and maybe consider a kit similar to the link, if you can find one locally. They are a great way to get your feet wet (pun intended), and if you really get into WCing, the parts are transferable to other builds (rads / pump / CPU block). You'd just buy different fittings and tube, add more rads if you like, etc. It's a great starting point IMO.


I honestly disagree with this statement. If you are going for a custom loop using nice factory made parts specifically designed for PC liquid cooling, it can definitely become pricy, but that is hardly the only option. In fact, the liquid cooling builds before all these liquid cooling companies sprouted up left and right still exist. For example:

*Waterblock*: HeatKiller 3.0 - $85
*Pump*: Via Aqua 1300 - $14
*Radiator*: Copper Heater Core - $30
*Various Fittings*: $15
*Tubing*: Tygon - $50
*Coolant*: 50/50 Anti-Freeze + Distilled Water - $30
*Biocide*: PT Nuke - $5
*T-Line Plug*: AA battery - Priceless

Total: ~$230

What has always made liquid cooling expensive IMO are looks. People like showing off their custom loops so we do things like acrylic tubing, UV coolant, slimmer/sleeker radiators designed with fan sizes in mind, etc. At the heart of it however, the budget build above would still be superior in both thermal regulation and noise level than a tower cooler.


----------



## Bart

I stand by what I said. No one would run the parts you listed these days unless they HAD to due to budget. No one is going to buy a $14 water pump unless they have no other option. 10 years ago, sure, get a cheap aquarium pump and some anti-freeze. Those days are long gone. I get where you're coming from though, I just disagree. Aesthetics is half the point of water cooling IMO. The complete kit that I linked came with a DDC pump, fittings, etc, and was under $300CDN, so still a decent price with no aesthetic "fluff" other than the HeatKiller CPU block.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> I honestly disagree with this statement. If you are going for a custom loop using nice factory made parts specifically designed for PC liquid cooling, it can definitely become pricy, but that is hardly the only option. In fact, the liquid cooling builds before all these liquid cooling companies sprouted up left and right still exist. For example:
> 
> *Waterblock*: HeatKiller 3.0 - $85
> *Pump*: Via Aqua 1300 - $14
> *Radiator*: Copper Heater Core - $30
> *Various Fittings*: $15
> *Tubing*: Tygon - $50
> *Coolant*: 50/50 Anti-Freeze + Distilled Water - $30
> *Biocide*: PT Nuke - $5
> *T-Line Plug**: AA battery* - Priceless
> 
> Total: ~$230
> 
> What has always made liquid cooling expensive IMO are looks. People like showing off their custom loops so we do things like acrylic tubing, UV coolant, slimmer/sleeker radiators designed with fan sizes in mind, etc. At the heart of it however, the budget build above would still be superior in both thermal regulation and noise level than a tower cooler.


While a good fit a AA battery will corrode you ever get it wet it can cause crap (first hand experience)







but I really agree with the point you're trying to make its not always about the best look. If you are willing to get your hands dirty you can get into this hobby for a lot less than most people say you have to have. But this is getting way OT juub needs a separate thread.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> While a good fit a AA battery will corrode you ever get it wet it can cause crap (first hand experience)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I really agree with the point you're trying to make its not always about the best look. If you are willing to get your hands dirty you can get into this hobby for a lot less than most people say you have to have. But this is getting way OT juub needs a separate thread.


Hey, my post has a HeatKiller block in it!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Hey, my post has a HeatKiller block in it!


This post has a heatkiller in it



















edit I just realised I have never posted pictures in this thread I feel ashamed


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> This post has a heatkiller in it


That's a really nice looking block. Nickel plated?


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> It's really hard to diagnose anything from far away. First, I would recommend disassembling the pump from the reservoir. Check the O-ring. Is it warped? Tilted? Does any spot look or feel different than the rest of the ring? Next up, when reassembling it, moisten the o-ring. I always have a bowl with distilled water next to me when building loops. I simply throw all gaskets/O-Rings/fittings in there, so they are clean and the o-rings are all moistened when installing them. A dry o-ring can "stick" to the surfaces and then become stretched in one spot when tightening everything down, leading to a small leak.
> Other than that: do as steadly2004 suggested and wrap the whole thing in paper towels. This should at least give you the exact location of the leak.


Wouldn't soaking all the fittings in distilled water corrode them?


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Wouldn't soaking all the fittings in distilled water corrode them?


Distilled water lacks electrolytes which is what causes galvanic corrosion. This is also why it is dangerous to only drink distilled water.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> That's a really nice looking block. Nickel plated?


Thanks it is indeed nickel plated


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I stand by what I said. No one would run the parts you listed these days unless they HAD to due to budget. No one is going to buy a $14 water pump unless they have no other option. 10 years ago, sure, get a cheap aquarium pump and some anti-freeze. Those days are long gone. I get where you're coming from though, I just disagree. Aesthetics is half the point of water cooling IMO. The complete kit that I linked came with a DDC pump, fittings, etc, and was under $300CDN, so still a decent price with no aesthetic "fluff" other than the HeatKiller CPU block.


The point in recommending a CLC was that he was looking for a solution today to those temperature and noise issues. A hybrid mod for the GPU will solve that, but it offers no options for upgrading in the future (as should be expected). Still I would much rather get to know how things work and maybe get your feet wet by using a CLC than opt for a sub par solution. Of-course you can get things cheaper and more expensive than 500$, but I set that sum as I personally feel that is a realistic price after you account for all the variations that no doubt will present themselves after you account for a ton of different angled fittings, fans, fluid and so on. For about 400-500$ you get a quality pump, a quality GPU and CPU block, a quality reservoir and quality fittings. It's an arbitrary number, but a realistic one IMHO.

Using a CLC as a stepping stone is honestly not a bad idea, though the quality of a lot of them leaves a lot to be desired.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The point in recommending a CLC was that he was looking for a solution today to those temperature and noise issues. A hybrid mod for the GPU will solve that, but it offers no options for upgrading in the future (as should be expected). Still I would much rather get to know how things work and maybe get your feet wet by using a CLC than opt for a sub par solution. Of-course you can get things cheaper and more expensive than 500$, but I set that sum as I personally feel that is a realistic price after you account for all the variations that no doubt will present themselves after you account for a ton of different angled fittings, fans, fluid and so on. For about 400-500$ you get a quality pump, a quality GPU and CPU block, a quality reservoir and quality fittings. It's an arbitrary number, but a realistic one IMHO.
> 
> Using a CLC as a stepping stone is honestly not a bad idea, though the quality of a lot of them leaves a lot to be desired.


I get where you're coming from, but I just don't agree, mainly because I did it that way too, and buying a CLC or an AIO is a waste if you're planning to do a custom loop at some point. That's money wasted unless you're going to re-use the CLC / AIO somewhere else. Agreed on the $500 though, you can put together a nice loop for that sum. But my point was that once you get into it, and see other peoples custom builds, then you start to get horny for "accessories" like light strips, funky coolant colors, nice reservoirs, hard tube, case mods, floor plates, etc. $500 is where it starts, but you can easily slide down the rabbit hole of this expensive little hobby of ours.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Whoa, that's a lot of traffic in a few hours! I love seeing that!

I'll throw my 2 cents in here, too. Please understand that all that follows is my private, personal opinion and not necessarily official company talk, mmkay?

My first watercooling rig came almost entirely from ebay. CPU block, pump/res were ebay, tubing and fittings were new, and the Heatkiller Core DIY 60 because it was the only block that fitted my GPU back then. I still think that ebay is a good starting point for getting in touch with watercooling. You'll have to spend quite some time with cleaning, but that's a good way to really learn something about the inner structures of your components, as well. If someone wants to buy a complete CPU/GPU loop new, I also recommend expecting rather 500$ than 200$. You MIGHT end below 500, but I feel that this is the way more realistic rule of thumb for quality components. If this is above their budget, they can still think about a CPU only loop, and expand it later on.

I'd heavily suggest spending a few months of online time with reading before purchasing any watercooling equipment. Read some "beginner's guide"s, preferably from different people on different forums - each forum tends to develop a certain "common sense", and they usually differ a little bit. So, the more you read, the more realistic idea you'll get about numbers and values. The opinions about what is "silent" and what is "barely tolerable loud" differ extremely, for example. Also, make up your mind about what you expect from the loop. Do you aim for "better and less noisy than air"? Or do you aim for "the last fraction of a degree"?

Regarding the "ghetto rig" vs. "it's all about looks, lately" discussion: when I started to work for Watercool and had to explain to friends and family what exactly it is that this company does, the first question always was: "and who on earth needs this?" And the honest answer is: nobody. No consumer _needs_ a watercooling setup. EVERY consumer PC can be adequately cooled with air cooling. We are a luxury niche, supporting a mere hobby. We, the community, do what we do because we WANT to watercool, not because we NEED to. So, if someone finds his personal Zen in assembling the cheapest possible rig: that's cool with me. If they find their fun in reaching the lowest possible temperature: that's cool with me. If they reach satisfaction by putting something aesthetically pleasing: that's cool with me. In watercooling, there are a few basic outlines of absolute truths (reach at least turbulent flow rate in blocks, lower temps are better, fans emit noise corresponding to their speed, be aware of the metals you mix in your loop), but other than that, we are all in this great hobby for fun and entertainment, so (almost) no system is inherently "wrong" in my eyes.

One last opinion on CLC: I, personally, privately, feel they have their right to exist. I strongly recommend against them on graphics cards, because I feel that there are powerful aftermarket aircoolers (Raijintek Morpheus, for example), but I understand their use on CPUs. But I strongly disagree with saying they would be a stepping stone in the development towards a full custom loop. In my experience, these things are so different from each other that I think you don't really learn something from a CLC CPU cooler that you will later on need for a custom loop.

Again: personal opinions








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Wouldn't soaking all the fittings in distilled water corrode them?


I have them in there while building. A few hours to ~2 days. And on the other hand: their inside will constantly be in contact with distilled water for the whole time of their use in my PC anyway


----------



## OC'ing Noob

I want to clarify that I don't find anything wrong with an aesthetically pleasing custom liquid cooling loop, having setup multiple ones myself. I was simply pointing out that budget loops are completely feasible in this day and age and it is the pursuit of at appearances that primarily drives up costs. Anyways, back to talks about HK products!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Whoa, that's a lot of traffic in a few hours! I love seeing that!
> 
> I'll throw my 2 cents in here, too. Please understand that all that follows is my private, personal opinion and not necessarily official company talk, mmkay?
> 
> My first watercooling rig came almost entirely from ebay. CPU block, pump/res were ebay, tubing and fittings were new, and the Heatkiller Core DIY 60 because it was the only block that fitted my GPU back then. I still think that ebay is a good starting point for getting in touch with watercooling. You'll have to spend quite some time with cleaning, but that's a good way to really learn something about the inner structures of your components, as well. If someone wants to buy a complete CPU/GPU loop new, I also recommend expecting rather 500$ than 200$. You MIGHT end below 500, but I feel that this is the way more realistic rule of thumb for quality components. If this is above their budget, they can still think about a CPU only loop, and expand it later on.
> 
> I'd heavily suggest spending a few months of online time with reading before purchasing any watercooling equipment. Read some "beginner's guide"s, preferably from different people on different forums - each forum tends to develop a certain "common sense", and they usually differ a little bit. So, the more you read, the more realistic idea you'll get about numbers and values. The opinions about what is "silent" and what is "barely tolerable loud" differ extremely, for example. Also, make up your mind about what you expect from the loop. Do you aim for "better and less noisy than air"? Or do you aim for "the last fraction of a degree"?
> 
> Regarding the "ghetto rig" vs. "it's all about looks, lately" discussion: when I started to work for Watercool and had to explain to friends and family what exactly it is that this company does, the first question always was: "and who on earth needs this?" And the honest answer is: nobody. No consumer _needs_ a watercooling setup. EVERY consumer PC can be adequately cooled with air cooling. We are a luxury niche, supporting a mere hobby. We, the community, do what we do because we WANT to watercool, not because we NEED to. So, if someone finds his personal Zen in assembling the cheapest possible rig: that's cool with me. If they find their fun in reaching the lowest possible temperature: that's cool with me. If they reach satisfaction by putting something aesthetically pleasing: that's cool with me. In watercooling, there are a few basic outlines of absolute truths (reach at least turbulent flow rate in blocks, lower temps are better, fans emit noise corresponding to their speed, be aware of the metals you mix in your loop), but other than that, we are all in this great hobby for fun and entertainment, so (almost) no system is inherently "wrong" in my eyes.
> 
> One last opinion on CLC: I, personally, privately, feel they have their right to exist. I strongly recommend against them on graphics cards, because I feel that there are powerful aftermarket aircoolers (Raijintek Morpheus, for example), but I understand their use on CPUs. But I strongly disagree with saying they would be a stepping stone in the development towards a full custom loop. In my experience, these things are so different from each other that I think you don't really learn something from a CLC CPU cooler that you will later on need for a custom loop.
> 
> Again: personal opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have them in there while building. A few hours to ~2 days. And on the other hand: their inside will constantly be in contact with distilled water for the whole time of their use in my PC anyway


I agree, nobody NEEDS watercooling, but it`s so nice to build and tinker with it, and that`s why we do it.

The main problem with watercooling these days is not how loud the watercooling components are, for example I have 1x 560 rad 1x d5 vario pump @ setting 2 since anything above that I can hear and I dont like that, all my fans run at a constant 480 rpm, the watercooling loop is about as loud as a regular brick.
But the problem is 99% of graphics cards have ridiculous coil whine these days, I went through 10+ graphics cards this year, not a single one was coil whine free, I tried different power supplies, different motherboards, even took my pc to a friends house, still coil whine, I am starting to think trying to find a coilwhine free GPU is impossible.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I agree, nobody NEEDS watercooling, but it`s so nice to build and tinker with it, and that`s why we do it.
> 
> The main problem with watercooling these days is not how loud the watercooling components are, for example I have 1x 560 rad 1x d5 vario pump @ setting 2 since anything above that I can hear and I dont like that, all my fans run at a constant 480 rpm, the watercooling loop is about as loud as a regular brick.
> But the problem is 99% of graphics cards have ridiculous coil whine these days, I went through 10+ graphics cards this year, not a single one was coil whine free, I tried different power supplies, different motherboards, even took my pc to a friends house, still coil whine, I am starting to think trying to find a coilwhine free GPU is impossible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Feel you on the coil whine man. My 1080ti's have some of the worst whine I have ever had. One of my big goals on the rebuild I have planned is to swap both pumps from 12v to pwm's and get all of my fans to pwm silentwings. Currently at idle my pumps are the loudest thing in my pc simply from vibration... at load it's coil whine by a long shot.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Sold my second 1080ti already, because unacceptable coilwhine, now waiting for VEGA, perhaps AMD has the sense to use better components.
Also, are you guys already working on VEGA waterblcocks, or has AMD not provided any cards yet ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Whoa, that's a lot of traffic in a few hours! I love seeing that!
> 
> I'll throw my 2 cents in here, too. Please understand that all that follows is my private, personal opinion and not necessarily official company talk, mmkay?
> 
> My first watercooling rig came almost entirely from ebay. CPU block, pump/res were ebay, tubing and fittings were new, and the Heatkiller Core DIY 60 because it was the only block that fitted my GPU back then. I still think that ebay is a good starting point for getting in touch with watercooling. You'll have to spend quite some time with cleaning, but that's a good way to really learn something about the inner structures of your components, as well. If someone wants to buy a complete CPU/GPU loop new, I also recommend expecting rather 500$ than 200$. You MIGHT end below 500, but I feel that this is the way more realistic rule of thumb for quality components. If this is above their budget, they can still think about a CPU only loop, and expand it later on.
> 
> I'd heavily suggest spending a few months of online time with reading before purchasing any watercooling equipment. Read some "beginner's guide"s, preferably from different people on different forums - each forum tends to develop a certain "common sense", and they usually differ a little bit. So, the more you read, the more realistic idea you'll get about numbers and values. The opinions about what is "silent" and what is "barely tolerable loud" differ extremely, for example. Also, make up your mind about what you expect from the loop. Do you aim for "better and less noisy than air"? Or do you aim for "the last fraction of a degree"?
> 
> Regarding the "ghetto rig" vs. "it's all about looks, lately" discussion: when I started to work for Watercool and had to explain to friends and family what exactly it is that this company does, the first question always was: "and who on earth needs this?" And the honest answer is: nobody. No consumer _needs_ a watercooling setup. EVERY consumer PC can be adequately cooled with air cooling. We are a luxury niche, supporting a mere hobby. We, the community, do what we do because we WANT to watercool, not because we NEED to. So, if someone finds his personal Zen in assembling the cheapest possible rig: that's cool with me. If they find their fun in reaching the lowest possible temperature: that's cool with me. If they reach satisfaction by putting something aesthetically pleasing: that's cool with me. In watercooling, there are a few basic outlines of absolute truths (reach at least turbulent flow rate in blocks, lower temps are better, fans emit noise corresponding to their speed, be aware of the metals you mix in your loop), but other than that, we are all in this great hobby for fun and entertainment, so (almost) no system is inherently "wrong" in my eyes.
> 
> One last opinion on CLC: I, personally, privately, feel they have their right to exist. I strongly recommend against them on graphics cards, because I feel that there are powerful aftermarket aircoolers (Raijintek Morpheus, for example), but I understand their use on CPUs. But I strongly disagree with saying they would be a stepping stone in the development towards a full custom loop. In my experience, these things are so different from each other that I think you don't really learn something from a CLC CPU cooler that you will later on need for a custom loop.
> 
> Again: personal opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have them in there while building. A few hours to ~2 days. And on the other hand: their inside will constantly be in contact with distilled water for the whole time of their use in my PC anyway


My point about using a CLC as a "stepping stone" was simply to say that it's a good way to start getting serious about cooling on your cards. Whether or not you choose to do that with air coolers or a CLC is entirely up to the user, but it's good to be somewhat comfortable with taking off the stock cooler and going "custom" before starting to mess around with open loops. That's just my personal opinion, and it's likely biased as hell since that is how I did things. Still CLCs on a GPU has their place, they offer better thermals than a large after-market air cooler as you can simply start using larger radiator CLC solutions (though in my experience the difference between a 120mm and a 240mm CLC on a GPU is negligible). The most important reason not to use massive air coolers on a GPU is simply weight, I have had a PCI-e slot and a graphics card break under the weight of the cooler on 2 different occasions. A CLC prohibits this, though there are solutions such as the support brackets that I see some motherboards are delivered with these days (about time really) but the weight is still there.

Still there is no going wrong with any of the suggestions mentioned here, this is just my personal take on things.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Can you really not find the water? You got a slow leak with just the res/pump combo? Or was that with other components in the loop?
> 
> Maybe wrap it with dry paper towels and see where the towels start to get wet after turning on. If there are 12.5 ounces of water going somewhere, you should be able to capture something.


No I didn't explain myself very well I think. It only leaks air on an air tester, when I fill the res and just run distilled it actually doesn't leak water.







Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Let me start with some Info about the Threadripper blocks: principal design is done, based on all theoretical data that we got. We have narrowed down the block layout to two versions that perform equally good in the simulations. We are now waiting to get a physical sample of the CPU and a motherboard to test both prototypes in real world. When we have decided on the final layout, we will start producing and selling it. We currently aim for a release at end of August.
> Oh my god that looks so cute! The teeny tiny motherboard there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing!





It's really hard to diagnose anything from far away. First, I would recommend disassembling the pump from the reservoir. Check the O-ring. Is it warped? Tilted? Does any spot look or feel different than the rest of the ring? Next up, when reassembling it, moisten the o-ring. I always have a bowl with distilled water next to me when building loops. I simply throw all gaskets/O-Rings/fittings in there, so they are clean and the o-rings are all moistened when installing them. A dry o-ring can "stick" to the surfaces and then become stretched in one spot when tightening everything down, leading to a small leak.
Other than that: do as steadly2004 suggested and wrap the whole thing in paper towels. This should at least give you the exact location of the leak.
Oh wow, this really looks unique! I'd be highly interested in some shots without the glass!
Hm, this is the support thread for a specific company. Of course, a I (and the other users in this thread) can help you, but please be aware that I can only speak for our company, not for any other.

See above Jacob. Is it possible that it can't hold air but it can hold water? I only get an air leak but no water leakage at all.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



1) Your case isn't ideal for installing a custom loop, that is true. But I feel like you are mixing up the terminology: the water block fits onto the graphics card itself, replacing the blower cooler and heatsink. The radiator would have to fit into the case itself. Your case can fit up to a 3x120 radiator, according to CoolerMaster. But I THINK that you would need to remove the 5,25'' bays then.
2) Only blocks explicitely compatible with 1080Ti will fit. The 1070 and 1080 are based on the same PCB and blocks are compatible with both of these, but the 1080Ti has a completely different PCB and thus needs a completely different block. We offer blocks for the 1080Ti and blocks that are compatible with both TITAN X(p) and 1080Ti. I cannot comment on the product portfolio of our competitors.
3) This highly depends on your radiators, actually, and on each other. Cooling a single 1080Ti with a 2x120mm radiator and slow fans will yield worse temperatures than 2 4x140mm radiators with fast spinning fans. As a general rule of thumb, you will get better temps and less noise than with the stock blower style air cooler, that is for sure!
4) Not at all. The tubes have nothing to do with the cables. It will, of course, affect the overall aesthetics of the interior of your case!
5) I cannot comment on competitor's business practices (even though I have a strong opinion on especially this one. Spoiler alert: not the best opinion.).

You would also need an additional pump and reservoir, which might be hard to fit into your case if you really need all those drives. And I would recommend to go the extra mile and get rid of the Corsair H60 and install a real water block instead. But to be honest: I don't think that this is actually the best way to go for you. Even though I'd love to sell you some premium components (and my boss would LOVE me for it, too







), I don't think that this will really satisfy you right now. You would pretty much have to change your case and invest quite some money. Maybe, looking for an aftermarket air cooler (Raijintek Morpheus or Arctic Accelero for example) would suit you better. To start of a full custom loop, you should first start reading and educate yourself on all the required components.
I'll be very happy to be wrong on this one and help you put together matching components from us, if you decide to go this way, though


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I get where you're coming from, but I just don't agree, mainly because I did it that way too, and buying a CLC or an AIO is a waste if you're planning to do a custom loop at some point. That's money wasted unless you're going to re-use the CLC / AIO somewhere else.


Not true. Well it is true for most AIOs but not the Swiftech ones. I have Swiftech AIOs in my system and they are both custom loops. One has the Heatkiller IV Pro CPU block and the other has a Heatkiller IV Pro GPU block. Both units are Swiftech AIOs and they do an amazing job.
As far as I know Swiftech was the first company to come out with a successful AIO that you can customize as you prefer and still have a warranty. I believe I have seen at least one other company that offers AIOs that allow you to turn them into a custom loop.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> No I didn't explain myself very well I think. It only leaks air on an air tester, when I fill the res and just run distilled it actually doesn't leak water.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There is a good chance the air pressure is to much for the seals where the water pressure is not. Air and water apparently provide the same amount of pressure unless your air pump is providing more pressure than the water in the loop is, which like I said is a good possibility.


----------



## steadly2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> No I didn't explain myself very well I think. It only leaks air on an air tester, when I fill the res and just run distilled it actually doesn't leak water.


Ah, so if you're trying to find an air leak, and unhappy just knowing that it will not leak with water.....

You can try spraying some soapy water on it during the pressurized air test, hopefully find some bubbles somewhere. You'd just have to clean it up after with some regular water.

Other than that you could try and submerge some of it while pressurized, although I don't know whether the water pump would be damaged if submerged. The soapy water is more likely not to hurt the pump.

If it doesn't leak with water pumping through. My bet would be somewhere on the cap let's pressure escape but wouldn't affect the system when running unless you ran the pump upside down.


----------



## ruffhi

Mr Drip is known to leak.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I have them in there while building. A few hours to ~2 days. And on the other hand: their inside will constantly be in contact with distilled water for the whole time of their use in my PC anyway


Yeah, I was more worried about the externals of the fittings being corroded


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> There is a good chance the air pressure is to much for the seals where the water pressure is not. Air and water apparently provide the same amount of pressure unless your air pump is providing more pressure than the water in the loop is, which like I said is a good possibility.


Thanks I think this is the case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steadly2004*
> 
> Ah, so if you're trying to find an air leak, and unhappy just knowing that it will not leak with water.....
> 
> You can try spraying some soapy water on it during the pressurized air test, hopefully find some bubbles somewhere. You'd just have to clean it up after with some regular water.
> 
> Other than that you could try and submerge some of it while pressurized, although I don't know whether the water pump would be damaged if submerged. The soapy water is more likely not to hurt the pump.
> 
> If it doesn't leak with water pumping through. My bet would be somewhere on the cap let's pressure escape but wouldn't affect the system when running unless you ran the pump upside down.


No I"ll be running it rightside up.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Mr Drip is known to leak.


This is my second one the first one, by my own dumb hands I cross threaded the pump gauge connection. Both of them have shown very very slow leaks, that did hold water after.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quick question, does the 1080TI block (15590) fit the EVGA Black Edition (11G-P4-6393-KR)? It says that it should in the compatibility chart, but it's not entirely reference since it has the DVI port like the Titan Xp 2016.

I mean, I can still use the Titan block (15580), but considering it's stated that it fits in the compatibility chart I wanted to check for sure.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quick question, does the 1080TI block (15590) fit the EVGA Black Edition (11G-P4-6393-KR)? It says that it should in the compatibility chart, but it's not entirely reference since it has the DVI port like the Titan Xp 2016.
> 
> I mean, I can still use the Titan block (15580), but considering it's stated that it fits in the compatibility chart I wanted to check for sure.


You are absolutely right. Thanks for bringing this to our attention. The 1559X blocks are NOT compatible, the 1558X ones are.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You are absolutely right. Thanks for bringing this to our attention. The 1559X blocks are NOT compatible, the 1558X ones are.


Great, then I'll put in an order for the 15580 and a 18012 when I get my hardware in house. I look forward to try out some products from Watercool, I just hope they live up to my expectations and more importantly the reputation


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

I promised you guys some insights into our workshop, and I shamefully neglected you guys! One, I've been terribly busy. But two, I started a micro-series with this kind of content on instagram. This makes it way easier for me to share the same content with a multitude of forums and social media streams. Nevertheless, please feel free to post your replies to those pics here, too, I really appreciate the feedback you guys are giving me!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I promised you guys some insights into our workshop, and I shamefully neglected you guys! One, I've been terribly busy. But two, I started a micro-series with this kind of content on instagram. This makes it way easier for me to share the same content with a multitude of forums and social media streams. Nevertheless, please feel free to post your replies to those pics here, too, I really appreciate the feedback you guys are giving me!


I will have a picture to post/upload on ig soon as well









keep it up man!


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I promised you guys some insights into our workshop, and I shamefully neglected you guys! One, I've been terribly busy. But two, I started a micro-series with this kind of content on instagram. This makes it way easier for me to share the same content with a multitude of forums and social media streams. Nevertheless, please feel free to post your replies to those pics here, too, I really appreciate the feedback you guys are giving me!


Great looking pics there, do you guys keep all production in house?

Also, looking though the gallery there, I noticed a 1080ti copper block with a black face... how difficult is it to put in these special orders? does it affect cost any, and if so how much?


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Great looking pics there, do you guys keep all production in house?
> 
> Also, looking though the gallery there, I noticed a 1080ti copper block with a black face... how difficult is it to put in these special orders? does it affect cost any, and if so how much?


That is my block and it was extremely easy. I'll let jakob provide exact details but I just ordered the black/nickel block and put in the order notes that I would like it assembled with the copper base plate. Also they actually refunded me the difference in price between a nickel plated block and a copper block! Now that's service


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I will have a picture to post/upload on ig soon as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep it up man!


Those are some nice looking pics!

Someone mentioned in house manufacturing which brings one question to mind... How goes the building expansion you posted about several months ago?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> That is my block and it was extremely easy. I'll let jakob provide exact details but I just ordered the black/nickel block and put in the order notes that I would like it assembled with the copper base plate. Also they actually refunded me the difference in price between a nickel plated block and a copper block! Now that's service


I can't agree more on that, they even have relatively cheap shipping which amazes me (I actually pay less to have it shipped from them in Germany than a simple city to city package within Norway







). It's also quite fascinating that changes like that are made that easily, a lot of companies are really tricky with anything outside of "vanilla". Now if only there existed black mounting hardware for AM4 as well...


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How far are VEGA blocks?


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How far are VEGA blocks?


I'm still waiting for the awesome radiator to finish up also..??


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Great looking pics there, do you guys keep all production in house?
> 
> Also, looking though the gallery there, I noticed a 1080ti copper block with a black face... how difficult is it to put in these special orders? does it affect cost any, and if so how much?


I guess this is what separates us from almost every other watercooling manufacturer out there: our whole production happens under one roof! The only thing we use a subcontractor for is the plating, because these chemical processes cannot be reasonably handled with the quantitys we need - we are simply too small to maintain these chemical baths







But everything else, from design to prototyping to actual CNC milling to assembly to packaging to shipping is done in our very own workshop! That's the reason why we can react to custom wishes that easy, and why we can always reproduce even small batches of older models (need one block for a GTX 480? No problem here, my friend!).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Someone mentioned in house manufacturing which brings one question to mind... How goes the building expansion you posted about several months ago?


The expansion itself is done, the new area can already be used. We are currently in the process of restructuring the whole workshop area. Our business grew very much over the last year, and we need to figure out which new machines to buy and which machine to place where. So, the expansion itself is finished, but not fully used and integrated in the production cycle.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How far are VEGA blocks?


Unsure.
Quite frankly, the last block for AMD cards that sold well was for the R9 290/390. Everthing since then was, actually, rather disappointing. So we want to wait out how and see how the cards perform and how much of them are sold before we decide if we want to invest the development time into a block, at all, or if that time is better invested in other projects. I'll keep you updated when we make a final decision on it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> I'm still waiting for the awesome radiator to finish up also..??


...yup. This would be one of those things colliding with a VEGA block









THREADRIPPER news:
There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.

Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I guess this is what separates us from almost every other watercooling manufacturer out there: our whole production happens under one roof! The only thing we use a subcontractor for is the plating, because these chemical processes cannot be reasonably handled with the quantitys we need - we are simply too small to maintain these chemical baths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But everything else, from design to prototyping to actual CNC milling to assembly to packaging to shipping is done in our very own workshop! That's the reason why we can react to custom wishes that easy, and why we can always reproduce even small batches of older models (need one block for a GTX 480? No problem here, my friend!).
> The expansion itself is done, the new area can already be used. We are currently in the process of restructuring the whole workshop area. Our business grew very much over the last year, and we need to figure out which new machines to buy and which machine to place where. So, the expansion itself is finished, but not fully used and integrated in the production cycle.
> Unsure.
> Quite frankly, the last block for AMD cards that sold well was for the R9 290/390. Everthing since then was, actually, rather disappointing. So we want to wait out how and see how the cards perform and how much of them are sold before we decide if we want to invest the development time into a block, at all, or if that time is better invested in other projects. I'll keep you updated when we make a final decision on it!
> ...yup. This would be one of those things colliding with a VEGA block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I guess this is what separates us from almost every other watercooling manufacturer out there: our whole production happens under one roof! The only thing we use a subcontractor for is the plating, because these chemical processes cannot be reasonably handled with the quantitys we need - we are simply too small to maintain these chemical baths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But everything else, from design to prototyping to actual CNC milling to assembly to packaging to shipping is done in our very own workshop! That's the reason why we can react to custom wishes that easy, and why we can always reproduce even small batches of older models (need one block for a GTX 480? No problem here, my friend!).
> The expansion itself is done, the new area can already be used. We are currently in the process of restructuring the whole workshop area. Our business grew very much over the last year, and we need to figure out which new machines to buy and which machine to place where. So, the expansion itself is finished, but not fully used and integrated in the production cycle.
> Unsure.
> Quite frankly, the last block for AMD cards that sold well was for the R9 290/390. Everthing since then was, actually, rather disappointing. So we want to wait out how and see how the cards perform and how much of them are sold before we decide if we want to invest the development time into a block, at all, or if that time is better invested in other projects. I'll keep you updated when we make a final decision on it!
> ...yup. This would be one of those things colliding with a VEGA block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I guess this is what separates us from almost every other watercooling manufacturer out there: our whole production happens under one roof! The only thing we use a subcontractor for is the plating, because these chemical processes cannot be reasonably handled with the quantitys we need - we are simply too small to maintain these chemical baths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But everything else, from design to prototyping to actual CNC milling to assembly to packaging to shipping is done in our very own workshop! That's the reason why we can react to custom wishes that easy, and why we can always reproduce even small batches of older models (need one block for a GTX 480? No problem here, my friend!).
> The expansion itself is done, the new area can already be used. We are currently in the process of restructuring the whole workshop area. Our business grew very much over the last year, and we need to figure out which new machines to buy and which machine to place where. So, the expansion itself is finished, but not fully used and integrated in the production cycle.
> Unsure.
> Quite frankly, the last block for AMD cards that sold well was for the R9 290/390. Everthing since then was, actually, rather disappointing. So we want to wait out how and see how the cards perform and how much of them are sold before we decide if we want to invest the development time into a block, at all, or if that time is better invested in other projects. I'll keep you updated when we make a final decision on it!
> ...yup. This would be one of those things colliding with a VEGA block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


I've been waiting on an opportunity where I need a new block to go with heatkiller. Threadripper is that opportunity. I've owned so many Ek blocks that I feel that I should be given at least an EK tshirt. Do you have a digram or a render of what option A will look like. It is simply just about to look like a rectangle? Will it come in clear? Thanks


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I guess this is what separates us from almost every other watercooling manufacturer out there: our whole production happens under one roof! The only thing we use a subcontractor for is the plating, because these chemical processes cannot be reasonably handled with the quantitys we need - we are simply too small to maintain these chemical baths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But everything else, from design to prototyping to actual CNC milling to assembly to packaging to shipping is done in our very own workshop! That's the reason why we can react to custom wishes that easy, and why we can always reproduce even small batches of older models (need one block for a GTX 480? No problem here, my friend!).
> The expansion itself is done, the new area can already be used. We are currently in the process of restructuring the whole workshop area. Our business grew very much over the last year, and we need to figure out which new machines to buy and which machine to place where. So, the expansion itself is finished, but not fully used and integrated in the production cycle.
> Unsure.
> Quite frankly, the last block for AMD cards that sold well was for the R9 290/390. Everthing since then was, actually, rather disappointing. So we want to wait out how and see how the cards perform and how much of them are sold before we decide if we want to invest the development time into a block, at all, or if that time is better invested in other projects. I'll keep you updated when we make a final decision on it!
> ...yup. This would be one of those things colliding with a VEGA block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


Love that you are offering both options with the conversion and the dedicated block. I think I will get the dedicated despite having only owned the hkiv for less than a year







. Really look forward to some pictures / order button


----------



## springs113

Thanks subbed


----------



## Rainmaker91

@Watercool-Jakob Hi, I just wanted to ask something about the shipping methods in the watercool.de shop. It has 2 options for Europe shipping with one being EU countries and one for non EU countries, but what exactly entails a EU country? Does this just entail to full members of EU, or also to countries that is part of the European Economic Area (Iceland, Lichtenstein and Norway and to some degree Switzerland)? I always find this difficult as it varies so greatly depending on the specific shop/shipping company.


----------



## ruffhi

Can someone chip in on this?

I have a EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 06G-P4-6268-KR 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card
I also have a Watercool HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 - ACETAL Ni (15578)

According to this NVIDIA GeForce® GTX 1060 Compatibility List - Last Update: 24.10.2016, they should be compatible.

I've removed the fans and the Memory / Mosfet cooling plate ... and my expectation was that I would just be able to add some thermal paste and some pads, put them together, add the screws and bingo ... ready to go.



Am I right in thinking that the chip part (the place where I put the thermal paste and the raised copper square should just sit nice and flush?

Well ... it doesn't. That row of cylinders between the two strips of thermal pads is (simply put) in the way.

What am I missing? Does anyone have a picture of a 'naked' EVGA 1070 so I can compare?

Edit for reference, here is a pic of the 1070 Founders Edition ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Edit2: Someone else complained that the card they got from Amazon wasn't what they ordered.

I found this page at EVGA that shows pictures

Here you can see the 6268 and you cannot see the capacitors.


Spoiler: big picture















Here is the 6262 and you can see the capacitors.


Spoiler: big picture















I'm not sure newegg sent me the right card.


----------



## Memmento Mori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Unsure.
> Quite frankly, the last block for AMD cards that sold well was for the R9 290/390. Everthing since then was, actually, rather disappointing. So we want to wait out how and see how the cards perform and how much of them are sold before we decide if we want to invest the development time into a block, at all, or if that time is better invested in other projects. I'll keep you updated when we make a final decision on it!
> ...yup. This would be one of those things colliding with a VEGA block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


About the part that the last block which was sold god, I just noticed that since the 290/290x cards there was just the black backplates.... I would not buy a combo if the block would be nickel.... But it is just my opinion. I like the look of the block together with the backplate from you for the 290/290x...

Little advice, make a thread and ask the ppl what they want, same as CaseLabs did..... it will give you a view what the "market" demands ...

I would be in for a combo nickel block with a nice nickel plate for the Vega... ( cant help my self, just fell in love with the design of the nickel backplates for the 290....) Just start a thread and let the "Brain-storm" begin...









About the TR block - AWESOME!
Just was expecting to see this news in a news thread







(usually i look there for any kind of news, so i just started it there and was not aware its not so new anymore







)

forgive me....


----------



## Mads1

The Watercool blocks are working great, getting some really good temperture's from them.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


Any word regarding the orientation of the threads/holes?(cough cough email cough)
Vertical or horizontal etc.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Memmento Mori*
> 
> About the part that the last block which was sold god, I just noticed that since the 290/290x cards there was just the black backplates.... I would not buy a combo if the block would be nickel.... But it is just my opinion. I like the look of the block together with the backplate from you for the 290/290x...
> 
> Little advice, make a thread and ask the ppl what they want, same as CaseLabs did..... it will give you a view what the "market" demands ...
> 
> I would be in for a combo nickel block with a nice nickel plate for the Vega... ( cant help my self, just fell in love with the design of the nickel backplates for the 290....) Just start a thread and let the "Brain-storm" begin...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the TR block - AWESOME!
> Just was expecting to see this news in a news thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (usually i look there for any kind of news, so i just started it there and was not aware its not so new anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> forgive me....


I am glad you posted it there..... honestly starting a thread in the news section intimidates me a bit with how often they get closed/moved etc. So I am glad you took the plunge to get the info out to more people







.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Can someone chip in on this?
> 
> I have a EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 06G-P4-6268-KR 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card
> I also have a Watercool HEATKILLER® IV for GTX 1080 - ACETAL Ni (15578)
> 
> According to this NVIDIA GeForce® GTX 1060 Compatibility List - Last Update: 24.10.2016, they should be compatible.
> 
> I've removed the fans and the Memory / Mosfet cooling plate ... and my expectation was that I would just be able to add some thermal paste and some pads, put them together, add the screws and bingo ... ready to go.


That card is not a 1070 reference (as mentioned the electrolytic capacitors are in the way), have you checked the specific part number against the one listed in the compatibility chart?

Edit: from what I can see, your card would be the 06G-P4-6262-KR which has those caps placed there and is not listed in the compatibility chart (in fact its' the only one with visible caps on the EVGA site), as opposed to for example the the SSC and FTW versions which seem to be 1070 reference boards. Does your box say SSC or FTW on the front, or just EVGA?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> That card is not a 1070 reference (as mentioned the electrolytic capacitors are in the way), have you checked the specific part number against the one listed in the compatibility chart?
> 
> Edit: from what I can see, your card would be the 06G-P4-6262-KR which has those caps placed there and is not listed in the compatibility chart (in fact its' the only one with visible caps on the EVGA site), as opposed to for example the the SSC and FTW versions which seem to be 1070 reference boards. Does your box say SSC or FTW on the front, or just EVGA?


Thanks for your post.

I cut and paste from my newegg invoice ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 *06G-P4-6268-KR* 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 FTW GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card


... but I am coming to think that what I got in the box was not what I ordered. I will go over the box and the card tonight and then reach out to newegg to see what they have to say for themselves.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for your post.
> 
> I cut and paste from my newegg invoice ...
> ... but I am coming to think that what I got in the box was not what I ordered. I will go over the box and the card tonight and then reach out to newegg to see what they have to say for themselves.


I see... either EVGA changed the design (which is entirely possible) or you got the wrong card. Just check if you actually have the FTW cooler and the correct part number on the back of the card, if those are correct then I would check with EVGA and Newegg just to be sure (EVGA can always check the serial number and give you the correct info).


----------



## Memmento Mori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> I am glad you posted it there..... honestly starting a thread in the news section intimidates me a bit with how often they get closed/moved etc. So I am glad you took the plunge to get the info out to more people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Thank you for giving me courage







but basically it was a accident as I wasn't aware of this thread here







Tried to search it, but there are not much posts with "TR4"









Still getting used to the OCN forum, sometimes it is hard to find here something...

Hope to not miss the pictures, would post them also at the thread Start....







(if Watercool-Jakob would not mind)...


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Memmento Mori*
> 
> Thank you for giving me courage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but basically it was a accident as I wasn't aware of this thread here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to search it, but there are not much posts with "TR4"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still getting used to the OCN forum, sometimes it is hard to find here something...
> 
> Hope to not miss the pictures, would post them also at the thread Start....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (if Watercool-Jakob would not mind)...


Info around coolers on TR4 is likely to be easier to find in the Threadripper owners club (apparently created today) or in the general AMD CPU section of the forum . As for info specific to blocks by Watercool, this is the thread for that.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I see... either EVGA changed the design (which is entirely possible) or you got the wrong card. Just check if you actually have the FTW cooler and the correct part number on the back of the card, if those are correct then I would check with EVGA and Newegg just to be sure (EVGA can always check the serial number and give you the correct info).


I'm home and my SN returned part #06G-P4-6268-KR which, according to EVGA's pictures shouldn't have any capacitors. I have a service request into EVGA and I am in the chat queue with Newegg.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm home and my SN returned part #06G-P4-6268-KR which, according to EVGA's pictures shouldn't have any capacitors. I have a service request into EVGA and I am in the chat queue with Newegg.


That isn't the serial number, the serial number is unique for each card and should allow EVGA to check what the actual part number is rather than the one just stuck to the card (BTW: don't share your serial number publicly). It could simply be labelled wrong after all, either way they should be able to help you with that as long as it is an EVGA card. As for the return and all that, that would be a concern that Newegg would have to fix.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm home and my SN returned part #06G-P4-6268-KR which, according to EVGA's pictures shouldn't have any capacitors. I have a service request into EVGA and I am in the chat queue with Newegg.
> 
> 
> 
> That isn't the serial number, the serial number is unique for each card and should allow EVGA to check what the actual part number is rather than the one just stuck to the card (BTW: don't share your serial number publicly). It could simply be labelled wrong after all, either way they should be able to help you with that as long as it is an EVGA card. As for the return and all that, that would be a concern that Newegg would have to fix.
Click to expand...

Yeah ... I know. I entered my 16 digit SN into this ... https://www.evga.com/support/guestregister.asp ... and it said my GPU was Part Number: #06G-P4-6268-KR I was just using short hand above.

Edit: This conversation isn't about heatkiller anymore ... so I am taking the balance to my build log.


----------



## fx3861

any idea abt the dimensions of the new heatkiller radiator? hopefully can get the dimensions for the new 480 so i can plan out my Arcylic cuttings


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> THREADRIPPER news:
> There will be two possibilities for Threadripper.
> A) We will have a dedicated block for Threadripper only. This block comes in rectangular shape, and other than all previous Heatkiller CPU blocks, won't have any mounting brackets, but directly mounts into the block.
> B) We had a lot of requests for conversion kit mounting brackets for the standard Heatkiller IV CPU blocks for Threadripper. Since the cold plate of the HKIV is 66mm length, it covers almost the entire DIE area of the Heatkiller packages. The HKIV will cool as Threadripper just fine, where the HKTr will be the best solution for maximum overclocking results. Many people are fine with this kind of compromise, so we listen to our customers once again and give them a choice by offering two different products for the same goal.
> 
> Both the new block and the conversion kit will start shipping on September 6th.


+1 for the dedicated Threadripper block









hoping for a nickel/acrylic and black ano variant!

as it sits right now, I guess this AIO head with a custom bracket, plumbed into my loop will have to do until the block is out. hahaha.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Hi, I just wanted to ask something about the shipping methods in the watercool.de shop. It has 2 options for Europe shipping with one being EU countries and one for non EU countries, but what exactly entails a EU country? Does this just entail to full members of EU, or also to countries that is part of the European Economic Area (Iceland, Lichtenstein and Norway and to some degree Switzerland)? I always find this difficult as it varies so greatly depending on the specific shop/shipping company.


Those rosters are what FedEx predefines. They charge us and we simply transfer that to the customer.
That said, Norway is not in the EU bracket, but in the Europe bracket in this setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> The Watercool blocks are working great, getting some really good temperture's from them.


Thank you! Your build is so amazing and pretty and unique! Really recommend everyone here, go over, read his build log and enjoy this beauty of a PC!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Any word regarding the orientation of the threads/holes?(cough cough email cough)
> Vertical or horizontal etc.


*coughcough* dammit, forgot to answer *coughcough*
The ports on the Threadripper blocks are vertically above each other. Inlet is in the center of the block, outlet is above inlet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm home and my SN returned part #06G-P4-6268-KR which, according to EVGA's pictures shouldn't have any capacitors. I have a service request into EVGA and I am in the chat queue with Newegg.


Arg, that seems to be super annoying! Hope you can sort it out! Let me know if there is something that we can help you with.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> any idea abt the dimensions of the new heatkiller radiator? hopefully can get the dimensions for the new 480 so i can plan out my Arcylic cuttings


Sorry, the dimensions are not fixed yet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> +1 for the dedicated Threadripper block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hoping for a nickel/acrylic and black ano variant!
> 
> as it sits right now, I guess this AIO head with a custom bracket, plumbed into my loop will have to do until the block is out. hahaha.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


HAHAHAHAHA, that is a "custom bracket" alright! Whatever, if it works, it's fine


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Those rosters are what FedEx predefines. They charge us and we simply transfer that to the customer.
> That said, Norway is not in the EU bracket, but in the Europe bracket in this setup.


Yeah, that's why I asked since it varies a bit depending on the company that does the shipping. Thanks for the answer though, I'll put up an order shortly.


----------



## Solarion

..


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> HAHAHAHAHA, that is a "custom bracket" alright! Whatever, if it works, it's fine


hahaha. I'm glad that made you laugh, man. it does indeed work for now but damn does the AIO head create a lot of restriction. It's honestly driving me nuts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solarion*
> 
> Nice! Love the AIO decapitation solution.
> 
> Here's my ghetto water block solution. Will have to do till we get a peek at what watercool has to offer.


very nice sir! definitely make what you got to hold you over!


----------



## Revan654

a Small Mod for my HeatKiller Tube:






UV Lighting inside the lighting Slot using rigid LED Board.


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Jakob Suggestion: I think the LED slot for the Heatkiller Tube should go up the majority of the post (~90%). ATM it goes to ~50% and that makes it a tight fit (as you can see above). I don't think machining an extra inch or two (res size depending) would be too difficult. Making the cable cut out a little taller would be helpful as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Suggestion: I think the LED slot for the Heatkiller Tube should go up the majority of the post (~90%). ATM it goes to ~50% and that makes it a tight fit (as you can see above). I don't think machining an extra inch or two (res size depending) would be too difficult. Making the cable cut out a little taller would be helpful as well.


It doesn't need to go up 90%, Specially if you have good quality LED's. I say about 6" from top to bottom would be good). I just cut the PCB board to reach the very top & there still a bit of extra room at the bottom (Just can't really be seen in the photos). You can also put some LED's behind the res if it's mounted to some sort of backplate.

Allot of this mod was altering the PCB board & soldering.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It doesn't need to go up 90%, Specially if you have good quality LED's. I say about 6" from top to bottom would be good). I just cut the PCB board to reach the very top & there still a bit of extra room at the bottom (Just can't really be seen in the photos). You can also put some LED's behind the res if it's mounted to some sort of backplate.
> 
> Allot of this mod was *altering the PCB board & soldering.*


Don't forget, there are varying reservoir sizes, hence why I said %.

I'd say the vast majority of people wouldn't want to do that and would much prefer a "plug and play" solution.


----------



## nycgtr

Any chance of some renders for what we can expect for the blocks?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Any chance of some renders for what we can expect for the blocks?


this


----------



## Memmento Mori

*English:

"Graphics card cooler for AMD Radeon RX Vega in progress

For the new Radeon RX Vega graphics cards from AMD are coolers already under development. The Radeon RX Vega 56 and 64 series will be supported. Further information on product variants and availability will be announced soon."*

_*German:

"Grafikkartenkühler für AMD Radeon RX Vega in Arbeit

Für die neuen Radeon RX Vega Grafikkarten aus dem Hause AMD sind bereits Kühler in Entwicklung. Unterstützt werden die Baureihen Radeon RX Vega 56 und 64. Weitere Informationen zu Produktvarianten und Verfügbarkeit werden wir in Kürze bekannt geben."*_

*Source: HERE.....*


----------



## Paprika

The next step; Waterblock. SoonTM.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 
> 
> The next step; Waterblock. SoonTM.


The zenith grows on me more every time I see it. If ASUS does not have a ws board out but the time the new heatkiller block is out I may cave and get the zenith.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> The zenith grows on me more every time I see it. If ASUS does not have a ws board out but the time the new heatkiller block is out I may cave and get the zenith.


Just get it. The ws board might be a long wait and honestly I don't see what else it could offer. If your stressing out about sata ports thats rather silly. 3 nvme on board and 6 sata. You can always use an add in card as well if you need more. I have 3 nvmes on this board installed and 6 ssds attached. More than enough for just about any need. If you have THAT MUCH storage space needs you should be looking at another solution that's not piling data on your workstation PC drives.

Oh yeah adding to make you want it more


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> The zenith grows on me more every time I see it. If ASUS does not have a ws board out but the time the new heatkiller block is out I may cave and get the zenith.


Yeah man, just get it.











Edit:

The Asus Prime X399 is supposed to launch today actually.

It's a lot more trimmed down than the Zenith, mainly meant for those wanting a workstation board....or so they say on their page about it.

Their Strix X399 is apparently being released next month.

As far as that, I do not know of any other X399 boards they have planned for the foreseeable future.


----------



## springs113

The prime is sold out on AMZN and Newegg shows the 28th for release date.


----------



## Paprika

Fingers crossed that the Heatkiller block will have integration with the WC-header on the Zenith.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Just get it. The ws board might be a long wait and honestly I don't see what else it could offer. If your stressing out about sata ports thats rather silly. 3 nvme on board and 6 sata. You can always use an add in card as well if you need more. I have 3 nvmes on this board installed and 6 ssds attached. More than enough for just about any need. If you have THAT MUCH storage space needs you should be looking at another solution that's not piling data on your workstation PC drives.
> 
> Oh yeah adding to make you want it more


Main reason was aesthetics and familiarity as the last three boards I have owned were asus ws boards. I like having seven pcie slots because it gives a lot of flexibility and as for sata I am hoping to replace most of my storage setup with nvme drives so its not a deal breaker for me


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Fingers crossed that the Heatkiller block will have integration with the WC-header on the Zenith.


Think only a BP block is confirmed for that. I don't believe heat killer block will.


----------



## Jyve

I finally got one! Excited to tear it all down and install it.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got one! Excited to tear it all down and install it.


Nice


----------



## Revan654

I know X99 is bit older now of days, I was wondering if you guys sell all the hardware to cool all the chips on Asus Rampage V Edition 10? I had a monoblock from EK, However due to spotty construction it's now fall apart before it was ever used. Now EK is trying to get out of warranty trying to blame me for the issues. Screws don't magically unscrew themselves in the box. sorry bit of a rant (They were just really annoying me to the point I don't want to use EK again). Anyways back on topic do you guys have all the blocks required to cool all the chips or would I have to use some of the default cooling plates that came with the board?

I know from my past experience WaterCool makes very high quality parts & they don't fall apart or fell like cheap plastic in comparison.


----------



## thetherington

Didn't you paint it? I don't doubt why they wouldn't want to take back some modified part which can't be refurbished. god know what else you did with it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Didn't you paint it? I don't doubt why they wouldn't want to take back some modified part which can't be refurbished. god know what else you did with it.


It doesn't excuse the fact that they screwed up when creating the block. Yet EK was not aware of any modification (I have not told them yet). They only knew it had a bad screw. Not to mention basic disassembly is covered under there warranty. Others have sent back modded blocks before.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It doesn't excuse the fact that they screwed up when creating the block. Yet EK was not aware of any modification (I have not told them yet). They only knew it had a bad screw. Not to mention basic disassembly is covered under there warranty. Others have sent back modded blocks before.


This doesn't make much sense. In my past experiences and threads I've read ek has a spectacular rep for CS. I can't help but think we're missing something here.


----------



## fx3861

Hi Jakob,

Any updates on the new radiator progress or eta to consumer usage? Fingers getting too itchy to buy myself a rads


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It doesn't excuse the fact that they screwed up when creating the block. Yet EK was not aware of any modification (I have not told them yet). They only knew it had a bad screw. Not to mention basic disassembly is covered under there warranty. Others have sent back modded blocks before.


I have myself experienced two of those blocks start leaking because of shotty manufacturing.

......it's one of the many reasons why i'll never go with EK again, nor will I recommend them to anyone.

I can go on a hugeeee rant about EK.

the ONLY good thing to come of them, is other companies (like Watercool) have been really stepping up their game in watercooling components to sway people away from what is now EK being the de facto company to use first when watercooling. EK pulled this off with the ability to pump out huge numbers (quality goes way down) and buttering up motherboard and graphics cards manufacturers to get hardware wayyy before anyone else.

they post a couple pictures of monoblocks and full cover blocks before the actual hardware is even released, and boom. you got all the sheep flocking to whatever motherboard or graphics card they made a block for. it's a win-win for EK and whatever company they made the block for.

of course you then can snag a crazy monoblock for a motherboard you hadn't decided on yet, or a full cover gpu block you were on the fence about before, but when your system is all but finished, you realize your system looks like almost every other watercooled rig out there.

it kills the ability to be unique, and greatly hinders creativeness.

a very great example of something like this is EK's "new" Threadripper block. in reality, it's the exact same design as their Supremacy - but with 10mm of extra copper/nickel. that's it. their bracket looks almost identical to their AM4 bracket too.

they've simply lost their innovation, all at the cost of "it sells so why change it".

it's been about 5 years now with their designs being the same, iirc - and you'd think with the resources they have these days, it'd almost be too easy to innovate again. and you know what I hope? that their designers and engineers are trying to come up with new stuff all the time, but then get denied from the higher ups because they don't want to ruin the cash cow they've created.

to me I can kinda compare it to Intel and AMD. Intel got lazy, they stopped innovating, then AMD came up and sucker punched them.

in the watercooling world where creativity and innovation thrives, it'll only be a matter of time until EK starts seeing their sales slowly diminish.

now with all that said, I did have a pretty recent pleasant experience with EK support, as my XRes tube started to micro-fracture. I emailed them. they responded with "we've never seen that before so we'll send you a new one" and they did. It was the wrong size, so they sent me the right sized one and told me to just keep the first smaller one they sent. it was fast and easy.

all that said, I still won't buy from them again.

sorry to everyone that felt that wasn't necessary. I just read more and more and experience more and more about EK's issues and they get to me rather easily these days.

in other words.... GO WATERCOOL.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have myself experienced two of those blocks start leaking because of shotty manufacturing.
> 
> ......it's one of the many reasons why i'll never go with EK again, nor will I recommend them to anyone.
> 
> I can go on a hugeeee rant about EK.
> 
> the ONLY good thing to come of them, is other companies (like Watercool) have been really stepping up their game in watercooling components to sway people away from what is now EK being the de facto company to use first when watercooling. EK pulled this off with the ability to pump out huge numbers (quality goes way down) and buttering up motherboard and graphics cards manufacturers to get hardware wayyy before anyone else.
> 
> they post a couple pictures of monoblocks and full cover blocks before the actual hardware is even released, and boom. you got all the sheep flocking to whatever motherboard or graphics card they made a block for. it's a win-win for EK and whatever company they made the block for.
> 
> of course you then can snag a crazy monoblock for a motherboard you hadn't decided on yet, or a full cover gpu block you were on the fence about before, but when your system is all but finished, you realize your system looks like almost every other watercooled rig out there.
> 
> it kills the ability to be unique, and greatly hinders creativeness.
> 
> a very great example of something like this is EK's "new" Threadripper block. in reality, it's the exact same design as their Supremacy - but with 10mm of extra copper/nickel. that's it. their bracket looks almost identical to their AM4 bracket too.
> 
> they've simply lost their innovation, all at the cost of "it sells so why change it".
> 
> it's been about 5 years now with their designs being the same, iirc - and you'd think with the resources they have these days, it'd almost be too easy to innovate again. and you know what I hope? that their designers and engineers are trying to come up with new stuff all the time, but then get denied from the higher ups because they don't want to ruin the cash cow they've created.
> 
> to me I can kinda compare it to Intel and AMD. Intel got lazy, they stopped innovating, then AMD came up and sucker punched them.
> 
> in the watercooling world where creativity and innovation thrives, it'll only be a matter of time until EK starts seeing their sales slowly diminish.
> 
> now with all that said, I did have a pretty recent pleasant experience with EK support, as my XRes tube started to micro-fracture. I emailed them. they responded with "we've never seen that before so we'll send you a new one" and they did. It was the wrong size, so they sent me the right sized one and told me to just keep the first smaller one they sent. it was fast and easy.
> 
> all that said, I still won't buy from them again.
> 
> sorry to everyone that felt that wasn't necessary. I just read more and more and experience more and more about EK's issues and they get to me rather easily these days.
> 
> in other words.... GO WATERCOOL.


Well said, great post.
Rep+

Watercool may not be able to produce a block for every motherboard or gpu/cpu variation out there, but they certainly do have all the main bases covered.
Quality, appearance, and functionality are where they excel.

My Heatkiller blocks and reservoir are still waiting to be installed, but when I do get this system finished, I'll have complete pride and confidence in these parts.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Well said, great post.
> Rep+
> 
> Watercool may not be able to produce a block for every motherboard or gpu/cpu variation out there, but they certainly do have all the main bases covered.
> Quality, appearance, and functionality are where they excel.
> 
> My Heatkiller blocks and reservoir are still waiting to be installed, but when I do get this system finished, I'll have complete pride and confidence in these parts.


I may have caved and bought the Ek tr block but that heatkiller has my name on it when it drops. I will be moving slowly to heatkiller for blocks. Unfortunately, I don't see myself changing gpu blocks anytime soon as my 2 txps really aren't going anywhere for a bit. I would really hate to spend again for blocks and backplates for the same card lol. Next big gpu drop, I am going to wait for heatkiller to drop with blocks. I like Ek but heatkiller had me with the gtx 680 blocks lol, just the wait after launch can be painful.


----------



## springs113

Yea same here, i am thinking of getting both the HK and Swiftech TR4 block...decisions decisions.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Just got my blocks in the mail today, and they look really good. Considering I only really have experience with EK blocks the quality feel of these is a noticeable upgrade from what I'm used to. Also the Titan X block in copper and with a black cover plate looks really good, so good in fact that it baffles me that it's not just the standard choice for the copper blocks to start with.


----------



## Wally West

The quality of these waterblock sure is amazing!


__
https://flic.kr/p/YjPUrt


__
https://flic.kr/p/YjPUrt
 by warplane95, sur Flickr

__
https://flic.kr/p/XHLwqq


__
https://flic.kr/p/XHLwqq
 by warplane95, sur Flickr

__
https://flic.kr/p/X6meZr


__
https://flic.kr/p/X6meZr
 by warplane95, sur Flickr


----------



## kevindd992002

German engineering in the works, just couldn't get any better


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'm glad you guys agree with the quality.

It's crazy because you hear what others say about these Heatkiller components, and you're like whoa okay maybe I should get one. and then you do, and you feel it for yourself and see it for yourself.

It baffles me the top tier premium that is felt when handling one of these components, and knowing that it's going into your system makes the system itself that much nicer all around.


----------



## Rainmaker91

So... quick question. Is it possible to remove the "silver" part on the Heatkiller IV copper CPU blocks? I know it's probably going to void my warranty, but I'm ready for that. Still I would like to paint the silver part, and it's much safer to do that if I can actually remove it from the block before doing that. If it's glued strongly down or even soldered then I'm just going to mask it of and paint it that way, but if it's anything like the badge on the graphics card backplates or the DDC pump top then I figure I might as well remove it before doing stuff to it.

Because even when I'm voiding my warranty, I want to do it carefully









Edit: Figured it out, it is indeed "removable". It's stuck really good on there, but it's double sided tape so that makes things easier (just used increasingly larger flat screwdrivers to get it of). Now, to think of the actual patterns that are going on to it...

I might even add the Watercool W

just to show how happy I am with the block


----------



## Jyve

I just got the acrylic one with the silver overlay. Good to know it's removable if for some reason I need to.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I'm glad you guys agree with the quality.
> 
> It's crazy because you hear what others say about these Heatkiller components, and you're like whoa okay maybe I should get one. and then you do, and you feel it for yourself and see it for yourself.
> 
> It baffles me the top tier premium that is felt when handling one of these components, and knowing that it's going into your system makes the system itself that much nicer all around.


These are indeed beautiful blocks. Though mine didn't seem to perform any better than my old Swiftech Apogee block as my temps are exactly the same as they were before. But this block is definitely much nicer looking. Swiftech just came out with new Apogee blocks which are also pretty sweet looking, and these new Apogee blocks are supposed to out perform the older Apogee blocks by a little more than a few degrees. Personally I don't really think they will perform any better so I am not even sure I want to get one.The deciding factor would be which would like nicer in my build. The new Swiftech blocks are sweet looking but in a different way than my Heatkiller IV Pro clean acrylic.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> These are indeed beautiful blocks. Though mine didn't seem to perform any better than my old Swiftech Apogee block as my temps are exactly the same as they were before. But this block is definitely much nicer looking. Swiftech just came out with new Apogee blocks which are also pretty sweet looking, and these new Apogee blocks are supposed to out perform the older Apogee blocks by a little more than a few degrees. Personally I don't really think they will perform any better so I am not even sure I want to get one.The deciding factor would be which would like nicer in my build. The new Swiftech blocks are sweet looking but in a different way than my Heatkiller IV Pro clean acrylic.


cpu block market is so vast, you can choose from many manufacturers and really only appearance matters, I'm pretty sure all the blocks perform very close(looking at reviews and tests the difference is in 0.x°C), this is not a rocket science and design of a block(in general) is pretty simple, not much can be improved that would change the game.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> cpu block market is so vast, you can choose from many manufacturers and really only appearance matters, I'm pretty sure all the blocks perform very close(looking at reviews and tests the difference is in 0.x°C), this is not a rocket science and design of a block(in general) is pretty simple, not much can be improved that would change the game.


Exactly, even if some reveiws may show one leading with 1*c that is honestly within the margin of error. That doesn't mean manufacturers should stop optimizing stuff, it just means that any loop with a decent rad and more or less any block (short of really old designs) will perform excellent. Chooing componets these days is more about choosing based on quality, customer service, warranty and most of all looks. The all more or less cost the same and they all more or less perform the same so we might as well buy good looking stuff


----------



## hotp4nts182

hey this one gpu block http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-gtx-1080-and-1070-acryl-ni-bl.html#Specifications gonna fit with GTX 1080 TI FE? cuz i coulnd find any other for 1080 TI...


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotp4nts182*
> 
> hey this one gpu block http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-gtx-1080-and-1070-acryl-ni-bl.html#Specifications gonna fit with GTX 1080 TI FE? cuz i coulnd find any other for 1080 TI...


IF you have a 1080 Ti FE card, this is what you need.

On another note, i just purchased a used Nvidia 1080 FE card, but its missing some screws. Im planning to buy this and the backplate.

However, it doesn't say whether the GPU block comes with the necessary screws. What type of screws and length do i need to purchase?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> IF you have a 1080 Ti FE card, this is what you need.
> 
> On another note, i just purchased a used Nvidia 1080 FE card, but its missing some screws. Im planning to buy this and the backplate.
> 
> However, it doesn't say whether the GPU block comes with the necessary screws. What type of screws and length do i need to purchase?


Both the backplate and the block comes with the necessary mounting hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotp4nts182*
> 
> but it isnt the same **** ? 1070/1080/1080ti/titan x FE its not the same size and same screws?


Similar yes, but not identical. You need to understand that the tolerances that we are talking about with a full cover block are quite small so you can't just choose a "similar" block and be done with it. Some companies like EK does however make blocks that fit the entire FE line, but that means that they have added all the grooves and notches needed for all the different cards. The Watercool Heatkiller IV blocks are made specifically for each card, but the Titant X block is also compatible with the 1080TI due to identical PCB (with some exceptions).


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotp4nts182*
> 
> but it isnt the same **** ? 1070/1080/1080ti/titan x FE its not the same size and same screws?


waterblock for the 1070/1080


my waterblock for the 1080 ti


the screws position look identical, but the groove doesn't.


----------



## hotp4nts182

http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-titan-x-pascal-acetal-nickel-bl.html So this is it? Its called (titan x pascal) but looks like for 1070/1080...


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotp4nts182*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-heatkillerr-iv-for-titan-x-pascal-acetal-nickel-bl.html So this is it? Its called (titan x pascal) but looks like for 1070/1080...


Reference boards are nearly identical bar the DVI not being present for the ti and Xp


----------



## Wally West

Just to be 100% certain, except from the 1080 Ti FE, no other card is compatible with other model from Zotac for the 1080 ti?

My 1080 Ti FE is on RMA and Nvidia isnt producing the FE anymore, they will contact hong kong if they have more in stock.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Just to be 100% certain, except from the 1080 Ti FE, no other card is compatible with other model from Zotac for the 1080 ti?
> 
> My 1080 Ti FE is on RMA and Nvidia isnt producing the FE anymore, they will contact hong kong if they have more in stock.


Here is the Watercool Heatkiller compatibility chart: http://gpu.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_GPU_Compatibility.pdf

Other than that here is some compatability lists for other companies delivering water blocks:
http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-nv-eco-gtx-1080-ti.aspx#tab3
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TI.html
https://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=5340
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831984
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/t/58eae7d8be659458e8602cb6/1491789785023/compatibility+gtx+1080+%3A+1080+ti.pdf

Here is a list of blocks for specific Zotac cards:
https://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=5366
Also Bykski seems to have one but that site is impossible to navigate: http://www.bykski.com, also one possible place to buy it.

Other than that you really have to make up your own mind, the Heatkiller block supports the Zotac GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition 11GB GDDR5X ( ZT-P10810A-10P) and the Zotac GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Blower 11GB GDDR5X (ZT-P10810B-10P). It's all in the links that I posted.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Here is the Watercool Heatkiller compatibility chart: http://gpu.watercool.de/WATERCOOL_HEATKILLER_GPU_Compatibility.pdf
> 
> Other than that here is some compatability lists for other companies delivering water blocks:
> http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-nv-eco-gtx-1080-ti.aspx#tab3
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TI.html
> https://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=5340
> https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/waterblock/3831109831984
> https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51998404e4b0ef02d1bd9c2c/t/58eae7d8be659458e8602cb6/1491789785023/compatibility+gtx+1080+%3A+1080+ti.pdf
> 
> Here is a list of blocks for specific Zotac cards:
> https://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=5366
> Also Bykski seems to have one but that site is impossible to navigate: http://www.bykski.com, also one possible place to buy it.
> 
> Other than that you really have to make up your own mind, the Heatkiller block supports the Zotac GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition 11GB GDDR5X ( ZT-P10810A-10P) and the Zotac GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Blower 11GB GDDR5X (ZT-P10810B-10P). It's all in the links that I posted.


Damn, I hope Zotac HK have some 1080 ti FE left :/ I already have the waterblock.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
sorry that I was so silent over the last week or so, I've been damn busy and will be for the next ~3 weeks. Should get better by end of September, I promise! I'm happy to see that you guys can answer the most questions even without me interfering and that this little community here proofs to be alive and vital even when I'm not around!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I know X99 is bit older now of days, I was wondering if you guys sell all the hardware to cool all the chips on Asus Rampage V Edition 10?


You can check this yourself by checking our Motherboard Compatibility Chart (link also in my sig). We do over the block to cool the VRMs, but not the chipset itself. The chipset doesn't emit substantial heat in the latest generations of motherboards and is usually adequately cooled by the heatsinks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Hi Jakob,
> 
> Any updates on the new radiator progress or eta to consumer usage? Fingers getting too itchy to buy myself a rads


No definite updates. We are still super busy with Threadripper and Vega, so radiator development got pushed a bit back. We are currently aiming for a release in late Q4. Probably in time for christmas sales









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> On another note, i just purchased a used Nvidia 1080 FE card, but its missing some screws. Im planning to buy this and the backplate.
> 
> However, it doesn't say whether the GPU block comes with the necessary screws. What type of screws and length do i need to purchase?


All required screws, both for mounting with or without backplate, are part of the delivery scope.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotp4nts182*
> 
> but it isnt the same **** ? 1070/1080/1080ti/titan x FE its not the same size and same screws?


The PCBs have the same physical outer dimensions (lenghtxwidth). But that's about it, really. The differences are bigger than you'd think: 1070/1080 come with 8GB of RAM, 1080Ti and Titan with 11/12 GB. So there are four more physical RAM blocks on those PCBs that need cooling. The 1080 comes with one 8-pin power connector, the 1080Ti with an 8pin AND a 6pin. There are 5 VRM physes versus 7, and so on and so on. Don't let yourself be fooled by the rather similar naming schemes, there are completely different physical components equipped on these PCBs, with different positions, heights, etc.
Please ALWAYS consult the GPU Compatibility Chart before buying a GPU waterblock to avoid frustration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Damn, I hope Zotac HK have some 1080 ti FE left :/ I already have the waterblock.


May I ask why yopu are so fixated on Zotac? There are other manufacturers out there with compatible cards


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> May I ask why yopu are so fixated on Zotac? There are other manufacturers out there with compatible cards


Bought a card from them, it had a huge coil whine, send it to Zotac for the warranty, but they dont have the FE in stock anymore. I'll wait for the hong kong confirmation, if not I'll just resell the other card I'll receive and order another FE.

Also, I'm not sure for other country, but In Canada I only found the EVGA in stock for the 1080 ti.


----------



## Diffident

Can I join?

Please excuse the rushed phone pics. I just got these and I was excited.







They're so pretty.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Both the backplate and the block comes with the necessary mounting hardware.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> All required screws, both for mounting with or without backplate, are part of the delivery scope.


Ok, thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Jyve

I'm really digging that res. I really should be able to just take apart my ek xres Revo D5 combo and plug my d5 into an HK res right?


----------



## emsj86

yea as long as you buy the D5 one. Now make sure you buy the mounting kits. Either basic mounting kit or the stand as it does not come with them unless ordered dricectly through watercool. And they are sweet!!


----------



## Paprika

Fingers crossed for the Threadripper block announcement today.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm really digging that res. I really should be able to just take apart my ek xres Revo D5 combo and plug my d5 into an HK res right?


I run the D5 res with a ALC VPP655, no issues, as Long as you use the o-ring that Comes with the res.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Bought a card from them, it had a huge coil whine, send it to Zotac for the warranty, but they dont have the FE in stock anymore. I'll wait for the hong kong confirmation, if not I'll just resell the other card I'll receive and order another FE.
> 
> Also, I'm not sure for other country, but In Canada I only found the EVGA in stock for the 1080 ti.


You could ask for this card, it should be compatible with the heatkiller blocks and it's technically not a FE card (though it has a reference PCB). There is also the ArcticStorm which comes with a waterblock on it, so maybe you can ask for that one if you pay the difference in pricing between it and an FE.

Other than that, EVGA tends to be a good choice for watercooling.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> You could ask for this card, it should be compatible with the heatkiller blocks and it's technically not a FE card (though it has a reference PCB). There is also the ArcticStorm which comes with a waterblock on it, so maybe you can ask for that one if you pay the difference in pricing between it and an FE.
> 
> Other than that, EVGA tends to be a good choice for watercooling.


OT: I have seen a German Source stating that the ArcticStorm has Aluminium parts in the cooler, if that is true you should pay Attention to the rest of the Loop..


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> OT: I have seen a German Source stating that the ArcticStorm has Aluminium parts in the cooler, if that is true you should pay Attention to the rest of the Loop..


That would be rather problematic if that's the case, a good combo for the EKWB cheap kits though. Still I would have hoped that manufacturers stopped using aluminium in the actual waterways. It's fine to use for radiator fins and such as long as the actual chambers and tubing is copper/brass, but there are far to many pure alu rads out there. Still it's strange if they actually use aluminium in their block.

Either way it's not a card I would ever buy, but as long as it doesn't contain actual aluminium parts then it would be a good substitute for an FE card for the user that is getting a Zotac card though RMA.


----------



## hitzestau

Lots of Heatkiller right here... CPU, GPU and Tube


----------



## jarble

Threadripper arrived today and I am sans heatkiller block







I am really disappointed that they let the launch date slip without any word that it was being pushed back.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Threadripper arrived today and I am sans heatkiller block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am really disappointed that they let the launch date slip without any word that it was being pushed back.


Last word was they started shipping yesterday, aka September 6th. @Watercool-Jakob should hopefully be able to confirm such soon ^_^


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Last word was they started shipping yesterday, aka September 6th. @Watercool-Jakob should hopefully be able to confirm such soon ^_^


I could not find anything on their site, seller sites, or anything from his last post. now they may have meant that it would start shipping to retailers on the sixth and that's cool but something on the site to tell me that we are moving along as intended would have been appreciated


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> I could not find anything on their site, seller sites, or anything from his last post. now they may have meant that it would start shipping to retailers on the sixth and that's cool but something on the site to tell me that we are moving along as intended would have been appreciated


To be fair, they are really not obligated to do so. The only info that has been officially shared on their main page is that the block is under development. I can understand being disappointed having to wait is never fun, but until there is an actual option to buy the blocks they are not really obligated to set a date on it. If the need is that dire then there are option out from EK, XSPC and Bykski already.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing the final block design in action as a specially designed block sounds brilliant for this CPU line.


----------



## Paprika

Will definitely be the block for me. Can't wait to see it, enough for me to constantly poke and annoying Jakob through emails


----------



## Bart

Anything Watercool makes is worth the wait. To quote an old beer commercial "taking the time to do it right".







They were a bit slow on Ryzen too. They don't have the mass manufacturing capability of other companies either, so that's something to keep in mind too. But the quality of their products NEVER disappoints.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> To be fair, they are really not obligated to do so. The only info that has been officially shared on their main page is that the block is under development. I can understand being disappointed having to wait is never fun, but until there is an actual option to buy the blocks they are not really obligated to set a date on it. If the need is that dire then there are option out from EK, XSPC and Bykski already.
> 
> Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing the final block design in action as a specially designed block sounds brilliant for this CPU line.


You are correct there was never a hard launch date but they told prospective buyers that the sixth was the launch date and as a prospective buyer it was a letdown to see this slip without any word. As it is I have a lot of build work to do before I am ready for final plumbing but I am not going to put the build on hold for a cloudy release date. I had my timetable accelerated by my servers pump biting the dust over the weekend so I am in a crunch to get new parts in the main rig so I can move over pumps to the server and get it back online before @Simmons572 keelhaules me


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> You are correct there was never a hard launch date but they told prospective buyers that the sixth was the launch date and as a prospective buyer it was a letdown to see this slip without any word. As it is I have a lot of build work to do before I am ready for final plumbing but I am not going to put the build on hold for a cloudy release date. I had my timetable accelerated by my servers pump biting the dust over the weekend so I am in a crunch to get new parts in the main rig so I can move over pumps to the server and get it back online before @Simmons572 keelhaules me


Oh I completely understand, I just have to explain things sometimes when people go all postal because of over hyping. Not knowing if you would do that or not I simply wanted to explain it (it's tough to read facial expressions online). I'm currently doing a rebuild of my main system as well, so I full well know how much it sucks to be stuck without optimal hardware. Luckily for me I had a case and a cooler left over so I'm running the system in a different case on air/AIO cooling while I build. I burnt myself on this the last time as well since I need my main system to work 24/7 I had to rush my original build.


----------



## The EX1

I am very excited to see what is coming for the Rx Vega cards. I need a waterblock bad, but don't want to purchase one until I see what Watercool has to offer.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Oh I completely understand, I just have to explain things sometimes when people go all postal because of over hyping. Not knowing if you would do that or not I simply wanted to explain it (it's tough to read facial expressions online). I'm currently doing a rebuild of my main system as well, so I full well know how much it sucks to be stuck without optimal hardware. Luckily for me I had a case and a cooler left over so I'm running the system in a different case on air/AIO cooling while I build. I burnt myself on this the last time as well since I need my main system to work 24/7 I had to rush my original build.


Definitely not going postal just wanted to express that I am bummed that the block was not ready to go when I was.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Definitely not going postal just wanted to express that I am bummed that the block was not ready to go when I was.


Didn't think you were either, I just have a tendency of trying to ease the tension at the slightest sign of it. Far to many forum threads get drowned in that stuff, so that's simply my go to reaction these days. And yeah it sucks not having the stuff when you want it, but like you said you have a bit of other work to do on your build anyway so it's not like it really matters at this point, you could always order up the pumps as a separate order though.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Please ALWAYS consult the GPU Compatibility Chart before buying a GPU waterblock to avoid frustration.


Jakob,

I see that you updated the entry for the 06G-P4-6268. I contacted EVGA and asked about the below and they said they were also 'custom'. Sounds like you need to double up your entries for each of these cards.

- 06G-P4-6266
- 06G-P4-6366
- 06G-P4-6368


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Threadripper arrived today and I am sans heatkiller block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am really disappointed that they let the launch date slip without any word that it was being pushed back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Last word was they started shipping yesterday, aka September 6th. @Watercool-Jakob should hopefully be able to confirm such soon ^_^


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Will definitely be the block for me. Can't wait to see it, enough for me to constantly poke and annoying Jakob through emails


Hey guys,
sorry for the delayed answer. We know that you are eagerly waiting for this block, and so are we! We WANT to give this block to you. But the way the mounting mechanism of TR4 works, we'd need a new machine to build the mounting system of the new block. So we decided to outsource this specific part of the block, and the subcontractor had a delay in his production queue. We tried to push them as hard as we could for the last couple of days, but after all, the release of the block itself will be postponed ~3 weeks. So, our new ETA is ~September 27th, unfortunately.

We are very sorry for this delay, but we are confident that you will be compensated by the sheer quality of the product!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Jakob,
> 
> I see that you updated the entry for the 06G-P4-6268. I contacted EVGA and asked about the below and they said they were also 'custom'. Sounds like you need to double up your entries for each of these cards.
> 
> - 06G-P4-6266
> - 06G-P4-6366
> - 06G-P4-6368


Thanks for the reminder! Will take care of that!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> sorry for the delayed answer. We know that you are eagerly waiting for this block, and so are we! We WANT to give this block to you. But the way the mounting mechanism of TR4 works, we'd need a new machine to build the mounting system of the new block. So we decided to outsource this specific part of the block, and the subcontractor had a delay in his production queue. We tried to push them as hard as we could for the last couple of days, but after all, the release of the block itself will be postponed ~3 weeks. So, our new ETA is ~September 27th, unfortunately.
> 
> We are very sorry for this delay, but we are confident that you will be compensated by the sheer quality of the product!
> Thanks for the reminder! Will take care of that!


Thanks for the update


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> sorry that I was so silent over the last week or so, I've been damn busy and will be for the next ~3 weeks. Should get better by end of September, I promise! I'm happy to see that you guys can answer the most questions even without me interfering and that this little community here proofs to be alive and vital even when I'm not around!
> You can check this yourself by checking our Motherboard Compatibility Chart (link also in my sig). We do over the block to cool the VRMs, but not the chipset itself. The chipset doesn't emit substantial heat in the latest generations of motherboards and is usually adequately cooled by the heatsinks.


I just don't like the default block Asus made for the chip. it's why I was asking. I did see you make one for the VRM.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I just don't like the default block Asus made for the chip. it's why I was asking. I did see you make one for the VRM.


you would have to measure the screw holes, but this would probably fit. Otherwise, you may have to look at some more modular solutions like these by Koolance. considering how poor of a job the stock heatsinks do these days you could also just slap on any random regular heatsink there as well if you really wanted to.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> you would have to measure the screw holes, but this would probably fit. Otherwise, you may have to look at some more modular solutions like these by Koolance. considering how poor of a job the stock heatsinks do these days you could also just slap on any random regular heatsink there as well if you really wanted to.


I saw those, EK is selling MonoBlock at 40% off (or should I saw PPCS is). I might just replace it. I would have to cool a few of chips on my motherboard(3 I believe along with CPU). All those blocks will add & likely be more expensive then just replacing the monoblock.

Single blocks would make loop much easier once it gets near the motherboard. I wouldn't have to have the one odd 90 degree-ish tube bend.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I saw those, EK is selling MonoBlock at 40% off (or should I saw PPCS is). I might just replace it. I would have to cool a few of chips on my motherboard(3 I believe along with CPU). All those blocks will add & likely be more expensive then just replacing the monoblock.
> 
> Single blocks would make loop much easier once it gets near the motherboard. I wouldn't have to have the one odd 90 degree-ish tube bend.


The option is there if you want it, if you prefer the mono-block then go for it. I'm simply providing options for some of the questions posed in the thread


----------



## magictoaster

I've just started installing a new Heatkiller GPU cooler and backplate (received it a few days ago with a new Heatkiller CPU cooler) and I was unable to install the backplate screws near the back of the card (the holes where not aligned properly). Uninstalling everything I found out why:



There is a black spacer factory installed where you can see the broken acrylic piece. It was crooked making it impossible to properly install 2 screws.

I guess it did not survive the try from Germany to Canada!







I'll have to use my backup EKWB block (I was going to get an all EKWB setup then decided to 'upgrade' to an all Heatkiller setup). I'm not sure it will be worthwhile to return the block to Germany for an RMA. It's sad because it's a great looking piece of kit.


----------



## serfeldon

Hello, I want to buy the Heatkiller Tube 150 and a Multiport top for it so I can fill from the top of the res. I am in Canada and the only store that carries the Heatkiller Tube only has the Multiport 100 top. I know that the only difference in the versions of the tops is tube length. Does the tubes length matter? What is it's function?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magictoaster*
> 
> I've just started installing a new Heatkiller GPU cooler and backplate (received it a few days ago with a new Heatkiller CPU cooler) and I was unable to install the backplate screws near the back of the card (the holes where not aligned properly). Uninstalling everything I found out why:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a black spacer factory installed where you can see the broken acrylic piece. It was crooked making it impossible to properly install 2 screws.
> 
> I guess it did not survive the try from Germany to Canada!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to use my backup EKWB block (I was going to get an all EKWB setup then decided to 'upgrade' to an all Heatkiller setup). I'm not sure it will be worthwhile to return the block to Germany for an RMA. It's sad because it's a great looking piece of kit.


Hey Magictoaster,
this damage is not okay in our book! Please send me an email to [email protected] with a pic from the damage and a copy of your invoice and we'll get some sort of replacement to you. We want our customers to be COMPLETELY satisfied!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serfeldon*
> 
> Hello, I want to buy the Heatkiller Tube 150 and a Multiport top for it so I can fill from the top of the res. I am in Canada and the only store that carries the Heatkiller Tube only has the Multiport 100 top. I know that the only difference in the versions of the tops is tube length. Does the tubes length matter? What is it's function?


The function of the tube is so that the backflow into the reservoir is below the surface of the fluid inside the res. That way, a "closed loop" is achieved, which brings many benefits in flow rate and air bleeding. If you can make sure that the end of the tube will be below the surface of the liquid in the res, a Multiport 100 top is absolutely fine for a Tube 150.


----------



## magictoaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey Magictoaster,
> this damage is not okay in our book! Please send me an email to [email protected] with a pic from the damage and a copy of your invoice and we'll get some sort of replacement to you. We want our customers to be COMPLETELY satisfied!


Hello Jakob,

Thank you for your help. I've sent you an email a few minutes ago.









Update1: A big thank you to Jakob for his help in resolving the matter! Everything is taken care of and I'm looking forward to finish my build!









Update 2: I've installed my CPU block:



And reservoir/pump combo:



I'm only waiting for the GPU block to install the fittings and tubing, and clean up the cabling. I've ordered some Koolance Q3D that should simplify components swapping (like update to the new Watercool radiators once they become available!







).

Hopefully I'll get an update from Jakob and know when I can plan to complete everything. BTW the Heatkiller IV Pro is simply stunning!


----------



## khemist

Switching from the Anthracite version.


----------



## Paprika

10 days encounting


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 10 days encounting


this.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 10 days encounting


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> this.


What is 10 days encounting? Is this a new video game?....


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is 10 days encounting? Is this a new video game?....


Hahahaha. I mean I was going to correct him, but the message was still sound.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Hahahaha. I mean I was going to correct him, but the message was still sound.


Yeah I got the message but it was to funny to pass up...lol


----------



## kevindd992002

I tried resisting commenting on that too but you guys weren't able to, lol.


----------



## Paprika

Fine, fine. 10 days and counting.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Okay, so I KNOW that you guys are still waiting for any snippet of news on the Threadripper blocks. I am aware of that. But until I get that cleared, I have something else for you:

TADAAAAAA....







Yes, you guessed right: RX Vega blocks! Compatible to reference layouts of Vega 56, Vega 64 and Vega Founders Edition, they will be available on 9/26 (copper base) and 10/5 (nickel plated base) and will cost 104,95€ for copper, 114,95€ for Nickel and 119,95€ for Nickel/black versions. They can be preordered through our shop and I'm working on the english descriptions asap









And yes, I know, you are waiting for the Threadripper block. But maybe, I could sweeten the waiting time


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, so I KNOW that you guys are still waiting for any snippet of news on the Threadripper blocks. I am aware of that. But until I get that cleared, I have something else for you:
> 
> TADAAAAAA....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you guessed right: RX Vega blocks! Compatible to reference layouts of Vega 56, Vega 64 and Vega Founders Edition, they will be available on 9/26 (copper base) and 10/5 (nickel plated base) and will cost 104,95€ for copper, 114,95€ for Nickel and 119,95€ for Nickel/black versions. They can be preordered through our shop and I'm working on the english descriptions asap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I know, you are waiting for the Threadripper block. But maybe, I could sweeten the waiting time












At least you know vega blocks aren't as important.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, so I KNOW that you guys are still waiting for any snippet of news on the Threadripper blocks. I am aware of that. But until I get that cleared, I have something else for you:
> 
> TADAAAAAA....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you guessed right: RX Vega blocks! Compatible to reference layouts of Vega 56, Vega 64 and *Vega Founders Edition*, they will be available on 9/26 (copper base) and 10/5 (nickel plated base) and will cost 104,95€ for copper, 114,95€ for Nickel and 119,95€ for Nickel/black versions. They can be preordered through our shop and I'm working on the english descriptions asap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I know, you are waiting for the Threadripper block. But maybe, I could sweeten the waiting time


hum hum, Frontier Edition, not founders haha







Nice block by the way


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, so I KNOW that you guys are still waiting for any snippet of news on the Threadripper blocks. I am aware of that. But until I get that cleared, I have something else for you:
> 
> TADAAAAAA....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you guessed right: RX Vega blocks! Compatible to reference layouts of Vega 56, Vega 64 and Vega Founders Edition, they will be available on 9/26 (copper base) and 10/5 (nickel plated base) and will cost 104,95€ for copper, 114,95€ for Nickel and 119,95€ for Nickel/black versions. They can be preordered through our shop and I'm working on the english descriptions asap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I know, you are waiting for the Threadripper block. But maybe, I could sweeten the waiting time


By far the best looking Vega blocks out there so far. The long PCB and relatively concentrated cluster of components really shows how the current block design can be used on almost every card with success. The block itself is small, but with the clear acrylic being covered everywhere but the waterways makes the block look far more complete then for example Aquacomputer's offerings (The difference in design on the block and the "cover" makes it look really weird imho).


----------



## BucketInABucket

Is there an option for the Heatkiller IV CPU block to be lit up with LEDs and for the label to be black instead of chrome? I'm thinking of draining my loop and redoing it with orange pastel fluid so it would be a good time to change the CPU block too.


----------



## magictoaster

Not to appear ungrateful (or annoyed) but since my original exchange with Jakob (where he graciously offered a solution for my issue with a new 1080Ti block) I have not received any communication/answers via email or private message.

Can I please get a simple confirmation that a replacement top is on its way? If it's not too much to ask, would it be possible to get a tracking number if it was sent via traceable courrier?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magictoaster*
> 
> Not to appear ungrateful (or annoyed) but since my original exchange with Jakob (where he graciously offered a solution for my issue with a new 1080Ti block) I have not received any communication/answers via email or private message.
> 
> Can I please get a simple confirmation that a replacement top is on its way? If it's not too much to ask, would it be possible to get a tracking number if it was sent via traceable courrier?


They only use Fed-Ex when shipping outside of the country I believe. If you have a Fed-Ex account(You can also create one), you can see if anything is being sent to your house.


----------



## magictoaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> They only use Fed-Ex when shipping outside of the country I believe. If you have a Fed-Ex account(You can also create one), you can see if anything is being sent to your house.


Thanks! I'll try that!


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, so I KNOW that you guys are still waiting for any snippet of news on the Threadripper blocks. I am aware of that. But until I get that cleared, I have something else for you:
> 
> TADAAAAAA....
> 
> Yes, you guessed right: RX Vega blocks! Compatible to reference layouts of Vega 56, Vega 64 and Vega Founders Edition, they will be available on 9/26 (copper base) and 10/5 (nickel plated base) and will cost 104,95€ for copper, 114,95€ for Nickel and 119,95€ for Nickel/black versions. They can be preordered through our shop and I'm working on the english descriptions asap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I know, you are waiting for the Threadripper block. But maybe, I could sweeten the waiting time


Jakob,

Any idea when US resellers will have them?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magictoaster*
> 
> Thanks! I'll try that!


It really does make tracking a lot easier. I also use it to reroute packages to a local FedEx office if I won't be home for my deliveries. People like to snatch packages off door steps in my neighborhood


----------



## magictoaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> It really does make tracking a lot easier. I also use it to reroute packages to a local FedEx office if I won't be home for my deliveries. People like to snatch packages off door steps in my neighborhood


Sadly, there is absolutely nothing listed in FedEx InSight for my address. That does not look promising... I guess I'll try contacting Watercool-Jakob again...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magictoaster*
> 
> Sadly, there is absolutely nothing listed in FedEx InSight for my address. That does not look promising... I guess I'll try contacting Watercool-Jakob again...


Make sure your name your using in Fed-Ex matches name that you used with Water-Cool. Sometimes if you have something like First M Last. Fed-Ex will read it & think it's someone completely different based on the middle letter. I doubt that's the case here.

Sometimes some of those packages are just not tracked. My replacement from Aqua-Computer I got a few months back was not traceable & it took awhile for it to arrive.

I would send a Pm to him on this site(It might take a couple of days before reply, Not sure if he visits every day or not).

For some reason E-mails sometimes do not go through or there blocked based on the service. Yahoo is famous of being filtered into auto-delete or spam folder.


----------



## magictoaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Make sure your name your using in Fed-Ex matches name that you used with Water-Cool. Sometimes if you have something like First M Last. Fed-Ex will read it & think it's someone completely different based on the middle letter. I doubt that's the case here.
> 
> Sometimes some of those packages are just not tracked. My replacement from Aqua-Computer I got a few months back was not traceable & it took awhile for it to arrive.
> 
> I would send a Pm to him on this site(It might take a couple of days before reply, Not sure if he visits every day or not).
> 
> For some reason E-mails sometimes do not go through or there blocked based on the service. Yahoo is famous of being filtered into auto-delete or spam folder.


Again, thanks for you help!

Update: Looks like everything has been taken care of. So, while they might not be the fastest at communication, in the end they do care and genuinely want to address issues and offer good support!


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Bart

Good lord James! You take AMAZING shots!!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Good lord James! You take AMAZING shots!!


Cheers! Helps when the subject is so beautiful


----------



## hitzestau

We really liked the Heatkiller Tube in our most recent project. Here are some images we took before installing it inside the chassis:


----------



## Neezy

Is there a way to mount the Heatkiller reservoir/pump on top of 120mm part of the radiator? Similar to the vertical mount for EK res/pump?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neezy*
> 
> Is there a way to mount the Heatkiller reservoir/pump on top of 120mm part of the radiator? Similar to the vertical mount for EK res/pump?


Something like this? http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230

Other than that, EK's d5 mount should work for any D5 res/pump combo that I have seen so far (in that it just clutches around the pump back end and hold the pump).

Edit: for the d5 you may want this one instead: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30231
Also just combine it with a universal fan/pump mount bracket.


----------



## Neezy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> Something like this? http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230
> 
> Other than that, EK's d5 mount should work for any D5 res/pump combo that I have seen so far (in that it just clutches around the pump back end and hold the pump).
> 
> Edit: for the d5 you may want this one instead: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30231
> Also just combine it with a universal fan/pump mount bracket.


Will those watercool stands mount on top the radiator via 120mm holes?


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neezy*
> 
> Will those watercool stands mount on top the radiator via 120mm holes?


I don't think so, but there is a ton of universal mounts that is designed for that like this one from bitspower. You just screw the watercool bracket in to that and you have a mount that fit on to a 120mm fan (Bitspower also has one for 140mm fans if needed). There is also a ton of other companies that make these universal mounts so you just have to look a bit around for them yourself.


----------



## hitzestau

Watercool offers fan adapters in sizes for 120 and 140 mm fans, you find them in their online shop.

We just used them in a project, here are two images we took. We assembled radiator, fans and reservoir/pump combo (DDC) before we installed it inside the chassis.





When you use the fan adapters, you always need the basic mounting kit as well.

Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30236

Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30233


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Watercool offers fan adapters in sizes for 120 and 140 mm fans, you find them in their online shop.
> 
> We just used them in a project, here are two images we took. We assembled radiator, fans and reservoir/pump combo (DDC) before we installed it inside the chassis.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you use the fan adapters, you always need the basic mounting kit as well.
> 
> Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30236
> 
> Link: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30233


I assumed he wanted it standing on top of it rather than laying down, thus the ones that I linked. If laying down is fine then the brackets that you show are perfectly fine, and a far more attractive option.


----------



## hitzestau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> I assumed he wanted it standing on top of it rather than laying down, thus the ones that I linked. If laying down is fine then the brackets that you show are perfectly fine, and a far more attractive option.


Ok, I see what you mean. The bracket from Watercool can also be be used for an upright position of the reservoir (and radidator), as you can see here:


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitzestau*
> 
> Ok, I see what you mean. The bracket from Watercool can also be be used for an upright position of the reservoir (and radidator), as you can see here:


Of course, but that requires you to be able to mount it to an upright radiator. the simple fact is that when we are doing these elaborate builds, we need as many mounting options as possible since we very often are pressed for space. Either way, both solutions should work fine as long as there is space for it.


----------



## Wally West

deleted


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> 
> I had the exact same problem this morning, so I learned Fusion 360 and Duality92 will print me this:


As long as it's strong enough to hold the weight then that is a terrific and small mounting bracket.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> As long as it's strong enough to hold the weight then that is a terrific and small mounting bracket.


I hope it will be haha, it's half the width







The Heathkiller solution is cheaper and more universal, but I didnt have enough space to fit the GPU and the reservoir/fan/radiator. I had no choice haha.


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I hope it will be haha, it's half the width
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Heathkiller solution is cheaper and more universal, but I didnt have enough space to fit the GPU and the reservoir/fan/radiator. I had no choice haha.


The size isn't really what is of concern to me, it's the strength of the bond in the plastic that gets 3d printed. The original one is made of POM/Acetal so plastic should work fine, and the design look sturdy enough. Still 3d printed plastic has a tendency of not being nearly as strong as casted/milled alternatives, due to the simple fact of how commercial 3d printers work. You won't know until you try of-course, and I sincerely hope it works as planned.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The size isn't really what is of concern to me, it's the strength of the bond in the plastic that gets 3d printed. The original one is made of POM/Acetal so plastic should work fine, and the design look sturdy enough. Still 3d printed plastic has a tendency of not being nearly as strong as casted/milled alternatives, due to the simple fact of how commercial 3d printers work. You won't know until you try of-course, and I sincerely hope it works as planned.


I'll probably put something under the reservoir


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I had the exact same problem this morning, so I learned Fusion 360 and Duality92 will print me this:


Uuuuh... were can I buy this?

Seriously, this would be super helpful for future builds/rebuilds.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Uuuuh... were can I buy this?
> 
> Seriously, this would be super helpful for future builds/rebuilds.


Nowhere. I made them myself and I do not plan to compete against Heatkiller







I used a lot of their design, but it's for personal use.


----------



## CarbonBlack

I finally mounted up my heatkiller iv, with the hardwareluxx top and black mounting brackets


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarbonBlack*
> 
> 
> I finally mounted up my heatkiller iv, with the hardwareluxx top and black mounting brackets


Ordering the same also, looks great!.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey guys,
> sorry for the delayed answer. We know that you are eagerly waiting for this block, and so are we! We WANT to give this block to you. But the way the mounting mechanism of TR4 works, we'd need a new machine to build the mounting system of the new block. So we decided to outsource this specific part of the block, and the subcontractor had a delay in his production queue. We tried to push them as hard as we could for the last couple of days, but after all, the release of the block itself will be postponed ~3 weeks. So, our new ETA is ~September 27th, unfortunately.
> 
> We are very sorry for this delay, but we are confident that you will be compensated by the sheer quality of the product!
> Thanks for the reminder! Will take care of that!


Hi Jakob--

Is the new TR4 block still going to be ready for September 27?

Thanks.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Hi Jakob--
> 
> Is the new TR4 block still going to be ready for September 27?
> 
> Thanks.


soon™


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> ah, the good ol' ddc-1t+ startup failure, im still using mine in a dual ddc reservoir, it seems that the damn thing needs some kind of mechanical force to start, so a second ddc in series is doing the job in order to start the first one lmao.


I just encountered this problem with my DDC-1T PWM and have been looking for a solution. That's what brought me here to this thread in fact, looking for information on the Heatkiller Dual DDC pump top. I figured that adding a second pump for redundancy just might do the trick. Has it solved the issue for you?


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Hi Jakob--
> 
> Is the new TR4 block still going to be ready for September 27?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> soon™
Click to expand...

They said arround sept 27 (on twitter), not sept 27.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> They said arround sept 27 (on twitter), not sept 27.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Even here they said "eta" so I am not going to be surprised if it gets pushed again







. I would love to have the block now but they have had a few production problems so I am willing to wait for them to get it all sorted rather than ship something halfcocked


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Even here they said "eta" so I am not going to be surprised if it gets pushed again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would love to have the block now but they have had a few production problems so I am willing to wait for them to get it all sorted rather than ship something halfcocked


Yeah, I just don't want people to be sad tomorrow haha. I can understand the frustration. I was waiting for a specific set of ram for my build and it was pushed back to December


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Hi Jakob--
> 
> Is the new TR4 block still going to be ready for September 27?
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Even here they said "eta" so I am not going to be surprised if it gets pushed again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would love to have the block now but they have had a few production problems so I am willing to wait for them to get it all sorted rather than ship something halfcocked


Well, you already kinda guessed it: no, the block will not be available this week. In our supplier's shop, the machine that they produced the parts for us on died and had to be replaced. They were able to produce all parts necessary for the mounting brackets, but are seriously behind schedule for the block itself. So, the mixed message is this:


The Conversion kit for the already existing Heatkiller IV CPU blocks is available and ready to be ordered through our shop.

We finally could assemble the two prototypes for the TR4 block itself this Monday and run them through our test benches for the rest of this week. We hope to have enough data to make the final decisions beginning next week, and aim to release the block to the public in ~2 weeks. We are super grateful for your patience and understand and share your excitement.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well, you already kinda guessed it: no, the block will not be available this week. In our supplier's shop, the machine that they produced the parts for us on died and had to be replaced. They were able to produce all parts necessary for the mounting brackets, but are seriously behind schedule for the block itself. So, the mixed message is this:
> 
> 
> The Conversion kit for the already existing Heatkiller IV CPU blocks is available and ready to be ordered through our shop.
> 
> We finally could assemble the two prototypes for the TR4 block itself this Monday and run them through our test benches for the rest of this week. We hope to have enough data to make the final decisions beginning next week, and aim to release the block to the public in ~2 weeks. We are super grateful for your patience and understand and share your excitement.


Sorry to hear that you're having so much trouble from this supplier. I really appreciate that you are keeping us in the know as things develop







.Is there anyway to get in on the first batch that you do get in (preorder etc)?


----------



## Paprika

It'll be worth the wait, I'm sure.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Is there anyway to get in on the first batch that you do get in (preorder etc)?


Currently not. I'll let you guys know how things evolve. We did do pre-orders with the last couple of big releases, so might do one for the TR block, too. But we are undecided as of yet.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Currently not. I'll let you guys know how things evolve. We did do pre-orders with the last couple of big releases, so might do one for the TR block, too. But we are undecided as of yet.


Can we get a render of the block?


----------



## Barefooter

@Watercool-Jakob are you guys going to make a mono block specifically for the Asus Rampage VI? How about a separate VRM block?

Thanks


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Can we get a render of the block?


Seconded, I'm curious about fin area, coverage, aesthetics, etc.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are you guys going to make a mono block specifically for the Asus Rampage VI? How about a separate VRM block?


^ +1 Interested as well.


----------



## The EX1

Anyone happen to know how many of the LED strips are required for each Vega waterblock? I assume it is one?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are you guys going to make a mono block specifically for the Asus Rampage VI? How about a separate VRM block?
> 
> Thanks


We thought about the whole Monoblock theme quite some time. We decided AGAINST doing monoblocks in the near future. We do not think that monoblocks are a good product for the customer: you have to buy a completely new set when changing your motherboard, whereas you can simply take your existing Heatkiller IV (maybe with new holding brackets) on to the next generation. Also, each monoblock requires a lot of time and energy during design phase. As you all are painfully aware of, this already IS our bottleneck, and we do not want to narrow that even more down.

Separate VRM blocks: we want to do some for the X299 boards, since their stock heatsinks and high power demands would benefit greatly from it. But we are currently focusing on getting this d**m Threadripper block out there. So, no ETA at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Can we get a render of the block?


Not yet. As I said we have two completely different prototypes that are currently being tested. We won't publish pictures of prototypes, and we won't publish pictures of products that will never exist for the consumer. WHen we finalized the product, I will finally be able to show you something









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Anyone happen to know how many of the LED strips are required for each Vega waterblock? I assume it is one?


It is one


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Separate VRM blocks: we want to do some for the X299 boards, since their stock heatsinks and high power demands would benefit greatly from it. But we are currently focusing on getting this d**m Threadripper block out there. So, no ETA at all.


Thank you for your response. I would actually prefer a separate VRM and CPU block over a mono block. I for sure want to cool the VRMs though, and I am considering using Watercool blocks in my current build. However, I want all the blocks matching, and from one company, so if you do come out with a VRM block, I most likely will be buying at least four or five blocks from you guys. I'm still several month away from needing them so please keep us updated on the status.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Thank you for your response. I would actually prefer a separate VRM and CPU block over a mono block. I for sure want to cool the VRMs though, and I am considering using Watercool blocks in my current build. However, I want all the blocks matching, and from one company, so if you do come out with a VRM block, I most likely will be buying at least four or five blocks from you guys. I'm still several month away from needing them so please keep us updated on the status.


Again, +1. I'd definitely opt in for a VRM block for the RVIE, as I've already got a Heatkiller CPU block.


----------



## The EX1

Created an account on Watercool's website to pre-order my Vega waterblock. Everything seemed fine but once I tried to re-login, the site said that my account had been deactivated? Anyone else having issues? I sent an email to the support email address on their site, but the emails come back as undeliverable.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Created an account on Watercool's website to pre-order my Vega waterblock. Everything seemed fine but once I tried to re-login, the site said that my account had been deactivated? Anyone else having issues? I sent an email to the support email address on their site, but the emails come back as undeliverable.


Just logged in with my existing credentials; no problems noted in either the shop or the forum. Maybe Jakob will chime in here about your issue (try flagging him).


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Just logged in with my existing credentials; no problems noted in either the shop or the forum. Maybe Jakob will chime in here about your issue (try flagging him).


Thanks for trying it out.

+rep


----------



## eucalyptus

I think I mentioned it a long time ago that I was working on my own custom backplate. Well, now it's done









Sorry for the acrylic, there are still a few stories I can't tell you about just yet







My secret weapon mods for future contests haha

The original screws were too big, so swapped them out for some smaller black ones and decided to use original backplate between. Although, no screw holes fit I used lots of thermal-tape to hold it in place









So PCB is still safe and protected but with a much better-looking backside









Took over 20 hours to make, had some damages in the aluminum and therefore had to polish it from 240 grit sandpaper to 1500 before "brushing". Also chrome shiny edges!























If you think this is cool, just wait for final installation, it will blow your mind completely!!! Hope you like it


----------



## ProRules

Amazing =)


----------



## muzammil84

doing a build with two 1080ti, dual loop and i7 7700k. These Heatkiller blocks are beautiful, can't stop staring at them.

build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1639630/build-log-i7-7700k-1080ti-sli-dual-loop-corsair-900d-by-likwid-mods


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I think I mentioned it a long time ago that I was working on my own custom backplate. Well, now it's done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the acrylic, there are still a few stories I can't tell you about just yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My secret weapon mods for future contests haha
> 
> The original screws were too big, so swapped them out for some smaller black ones and decided to use original backplate between. Although, no screw holes fit I used lots of thermal-tape to hold it in place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So PCB is still safe and protected but with a much better-looking backside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took over 20 hours to make, had some damages in the aluminum and therefore had to polish it from 240 grit sandpaper to 1500 before "brushing". Also chrome shiny edges!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If you think this is cool, just wait for final installation, it will blow your mind completely!!! Hope you like it


Nice clean work! Did you use your own mill or basic tools?


----------



## iamjanco

Yeah, the Heatkiller blocks have to be among the nicest looking, if not the nicest.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Nice clean work! Did you use your own mill or basic tools?


My design and sent to a guy with water cutter. Although, all edges arrives sandblasted so there is quite some work to get them shiny









Would be too difficult to do by hand because I got special parts to fit those screw holes later on


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> My design and sent to a guy with water cutter. Although, all edges arrives sandblasted so there is quite some work to get them shiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be too difficult to do by hand because I got special parts to fit those screw holes later on


Yeah, I hear you. I use a water cutting service myself and usually opt for bead blasting. Designs are done in Illustrator and exported to dxf, which has worked well thus far.


----------



## Ascendic

Finally finished stripping and rebuilding rig after Aurora failure. This time with even more Heatkiller sexyness












Spoiler: More sexyness


----------



## Wally West

Just a sneak peek of my build #3, Octarine. Man, those waterblock are REALLY sexy. sorry for the potato quality.


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## The EX1

Looking good!

Can't wait to order a GPU block for my Vega. Looks like the nickel plated ones didn't meet the release date Watercool announced earlier.


----------



## Phobicsq

I finally got around to setting up my new watercooled rig, Picked up the Heatkiller 4 chrome cpu block (I7 7700k), Heatkiller 150 res with watercool D5 pump, and Heatkiller 4 gpu block and backplate for gtx 1080ti FE.I have to say I love these items and they look amazing. Right now I have my system at 4.7 mhz with 1.2 volts with idle around 29-35 for the cpu and my gpu doesn't get over 35 when running Haven at ultra and all the settings maxed out. I haven't had much time to overclock much but that will be my next move. I am thinking about delidding as when I use CINEBench I get a max temp of 75c.

The heatkiller cpu block went on super easy as did the backplate. The heatkiller res assembles easy but I did have a couple of issues/gripes. One was that there is only one LED strut and I found out after I ordered my res that you can have watercool send you another led post (I read it in a review). A bit sad about that. The other problem was the O-ring that came with my watercool D5 leaked. After replacing it with the one that came with the Heatkiller res no leaks. I'm not sure why the O-ring that came with the pump leaked, if it was defective but it made me upset. The adjustability of the sliding posts for the res is nice but I wish there was an option to use the rubber grommets in the other holes. I had to improvise to fit my situation.

Probably my most annoying issue is that the led for the Heatkiller gpu block is not working. I attached a photo of where I thought it should connect to (circled in red). I bought another led but I am upset that this one isn't working and I'll probably have to take my gpu out of the loop and take the block off. Really, really annoying. That being said the block rocks with cooling.










System:
Asus Maximus IX Formula
I7 7700k
GTX 1080TI FE (MSI)
EVGA 1000p2 psu
Trident Z DD4 PC4-24000
Heatkiller IV CPU Block w/ backplate
Heatkiller 150 res w/ WC D5 pump (led, in/out top, vert mounting)
Heatkiller 4 1080ti block w/ backplate
Primochill deep red PETG tubing
EK Vardar 20000 rpm x5
Thermaltake premium Riing rgb fans x6 (one 140mm exhaust)
nemesis gtx 240 and 360 rads
revolver compression fitting - satin black


----------



## Phobicsq

I finally got around to setting up my new watercooled rig, Picked up the Heatkiller 4 chrome cpu block (I7 7700k), Heatkiller 150 res with watercool D5 pump, and Heatkiller 4 gpu block and backplate for gtx 1080ti FE.I have to say I love these items and they look amazing. Right now I have my system at 4.7 mhz with 1.2 volts with idle around 29-35 for the cpu and my gpu doesn't get over 35 when running Haven at ultra and all the settings maxed out. I haven't had much time to overclock much but that will be my next move. I am thinking about deliding as when I use CINEBench I get a max temp of 75c.

The heatkiller cpu block went on super easy as did the backplate. The heatkiller res assembles easy but I did have a couple of issues/gripes. One was that there is only one LED strut and I found out after I ordered my res that you can have watercool send you another led post (I read it in a review). A bit sad about that. The other problem was the O-ring that came with my watercool D5 leaked. After replacing it with the one that came with the Heatkiller res no leaks. I'm not sure why the O-ring that came with the pump leaked if it was defective but it made me upset. The adjustability of the sliding posts for the res is nice but I wish there was an option to use the rubber grommets in the other holes. I had to improvise to fit my situation.

Probably my most annoying issue is that the led for the Heatkiller gpu block is not working. I attached a photo of where I thought it should connect to (circled in red). I bought another led but I am upset that this one isn't working and I'll probably have to take my gpu out of the loop and take the block off. Really, really annoying. That being said the block rocks with cooling.










System:
Thermaltake View 71
Asus Maximus IX Formula
I7 7700k
GTX 1080TI FE (MSI)
EVGA 1000p2 psu
Trident Z DD4 PC4-24000
Heatkiller IV CPU Block w/ backplate
Heatkiller 150 res w/ WC D5 pump (led, in/out top, vert mounting)
Heatkiller 4 1080ti block w/ backplate
Primochill deep red PETG tubing
EK Vardar 20000 rpm x5
Thermaltake premium Riing rgb fans x6 (one 140mm exhaust)
nemesis gtx 240 and 360 rads
revolver compression fitting - satin black


----------



## jarble

@Watercool-Jakob Any update on the threadripper block?


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Any update on the threadripper block?


Seconded.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> Seconded.


"Thirded"


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> Created an account on Watercool's website to pre-order my Vega waterblock. Everything seemed fine but once I tried to re-login, the site said that my account had been deactivated? Anyone else having issues? I sent an email to the support email address on their site, but the emails come back as undeliverable.


We use a two factor authentification for new accounts. That means that you should have gotten an email with a verification link. Your account won't work before you haven't clicked on that link.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> The heatkiller cpu block went on super easy as did the backplate. The heatkiller res assembles easy but I did have a couple of issues/gripes. One was that there is only one LED strut and I found out after I ordered my res that you can have watercool send you another led post (I read it in a review). A bit sad about that. The other problem was the O-ring that came with my watercool D5 leaked. After replacing it with the one that came with the Heatkiller res no leaks. I'm not sure why the O-ring that came with the pump leaked, if it was defective but it made me upset. The adjustability of the sliding posts for the res is nice but I wish there was an option to use the rubber grommets in the other holes. I had to improvise to fit my situation.
> 
> Probably my most annoying issue is that the led for the Heatkiller gpu block is not working. I attached a photo of where I thought it should connect to (circled in red). I bought another led but I am upset that this one isn't working and I'll probably have to take my gpu out of the loop and take the block off. Really, really annoying. That being said the block rocks with cooling.


Thanks for sharing those pics!

Concerning the O-Rings: the O-ring that comes with the D5 itself and the ones that come with our standalone D5 top and our D5 reservoir have different sizes. For installation of the top or the reservoir, you HAVE to use the ring that came with it, not the standard one that came with the D5.

Concerning the LED strip: all LED strips are tested in our workshop and worked when they left us. That doesn't mean that your specific strip couldn't have been damaged, say in traffic. Please try those three steps:
1. Is the strip plugged in correctly? You really need to push it all the way in.
2. Did the LED port work from the start? meaning, did it work with the original air cooler?
3. The LED port could be disabled in the software. Did you make any changes to the LED appearance? Did you already try to activate it through software (EVGA precision has a built in LED control segment, for example)?

Can you plug the strip into any other 12V supply? that way, you could test if it works altogether.

If your strip is definitely defect, we will of course send you a new strip free of charge!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Any update on the threadripper block?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> Seconded.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> "Thirded"


Fourthed!

...

...

Uh well.
No, to be serious with you guys: Testing of the initial two prototypes wasn't as good as we wanted it to be. We weren't satisfied with the data we received, so we decided to go the hard road and give this damn block yet ANOTHER treatment, so we can deliver you guys the best possible product we are capable of. Yes, that means that it will be delayed again. No, I do not have a fixed date of arrival - probably early November. But rest assured: it will be the BEST. POSSIBLE. BLOCK.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We use a two factor authentification for new accounts. That means that you should have gotten an email with a verification link. Your account won't work before you haven't clicked on that link.
> Thanks for sharing those pics!
> 
> Concerning the O-Rings: the O-ring that comes with the D5 itself and the ones that come with our standalone D5 top and our D5 reservoir have different sizes. For installation of the top or the reservoir, you HAVE to use the ring that came with it, not the standard one that came with the D5.
> 
> Concerning the LED strip: all LED strips are tested in our workshop and worked when they left us. That doesn't mean that your specific strip couldn't have been damaged, say in traffic. Please try those three steps:
> 1. Is the strip plugged in correctly? You really need to push it all the way in.
> 2. Did the LED port work from the start? meaning, did it work with the original air cooler?
> 3. The LED port could be disabled in the software. Did you make any changes to the LED appearance? Did you already try to activate it through software (EVGA precision has a built in LED control segment, for example)?
> 
> Can you plug the strip into any other 12V supply? that way, you could test if it works altogether.
> 
> If your strip is definitely defect, we will of course send you a new strip free of charge!
> 
> Fourthed!
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> Uh well.
> No, to be serious with you guys: Testing of the initial two prototypes wasn't as good as we wanted it to be. We weren't satisfied with the data we received, so we decided to go the hard road and give this damn block yet ANOTHER treatment, so we can deliver you guys the best possible product we are capable of. Yes, that means that it will be delayed again. No, I do not have a fixed date of arrival - probably early November. But rest assured: it will be the BEST. POSSIBLE. BLOCK.


Man what an emotional rollercoaster we are on with this block


----------



## Dotachin

Any reviews of the Apogee SKF-TR4 out there?


----------



## Memmento Mori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Man what an emotional rollercoaster we are on with this block


all good things need some time.... BPB (best possible block) is worth the wait


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We use a two factor authentification for new accounts. That means that you should have gotten an email with a verification link. Your account won't work before you haven't clicked on that link.
> Thanks for sharing those pics!
> 
> Concerning the O-Rings: the O-ring that comes with the D5 itself and the ones that come with our standalone D5 top and our D5 reservoir have different sizes. For installation of the top or the reservoir, you HAVE to use the ring that came with it, not the standard one that came with the D5.
> 
> Concerning the LED strip: all LED strips are tested in our workshop and worked when they left us. That doesn't mean that your specific strip couldn't have been damaged, say in traffic. Please try those three steps:
> 1. Is the strip plugged in correctly? You really need to push it all the way in.
> 2. Did the LED port work from the start? meaning, did it work with the original air cooler?
> 3. The LED port could be disabled in the software. Did you make any changes to the LED appearance? Did you already try to activate it through software (EVGA precision has a built in LED control segment, for example)?
> 
> Can you plug the strip into any other 12V supply? that way, you could test if it works altogether.
> 
> If your strip is definitely defect, we will of course send you a new strip free of charge!
> 
> Fourthed!
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> Uh well.
> No, to be serious with you guys: Testing of the initial two prototypes wasn't as good as we wanted it to be. We weren't satisfied with the data we received, so we decided to go the hard road and give this damn block yet ANOTHER treatment, so we can deliver you guys the best possible product we are capable of. Yes, that means that it will be delayed again. No, I do not have a fixed date of arrival - probably early November. But rest assured: it will be the BEST. POSSIBLE. BLOCK.


If what you say is true, sigh I am going to have a such a tr block collection


----------



## fx3861

Will the new radiator be pushed back as well?


----------



## ProRules

Holy moly.
The Heatkiller IV for TitanXp/1080Ti Nickel/plexi...
First off, this block is STUNNING
Second, with all the blocks i'm working with (EK, BP, Barrow, Bykski etc..) I have never ever seen such a solid block. it is top notch!
Third, its heavy AF, ill have to use a support and foundation to hold it, Totally worth every single penny, thank you HK.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We use a two factor authentification for new accounts. That means that you should have gotten an email with a verification link. Your account won't work before you haven't clicked on that link.
> Thanks for sharing those pics!
> 
> Concerning the O-Rings: the O-ring that comes with the D5 itself and the ones that come with our standalone D5 top and our D5 reservoir have different sizes. For installation of the top or the reservoir, you HAVE to use the ring that came with it, not the standard one that came with the D5.
> 
> Concerning the LED strip: all LED strips are tested in our workshop and worked when they left us. That doesn't mean that your specific strip couldn't have been damaged, say in traffic. Please try those three steps:
> 1. Is the strip plugged in correctly? You really need to push it all the way in.
> 2. Did the LED port work from the start? meaning, did it work with the original air cooler?
> 3. The LED port could be disabled in the software. Did you make any changes to the LED appearance? Did you already try to activate it through software (EVGA precision has a built in LED control segment, for example)?
> 
> Can you plug the strip into any other 12V supply? that way, you could test if it works altogether.
> 
> If your strip is definitely defect, we will of course send you a new strip free of charge!
> 
> Fourthed!
> 
> ...
> 
> ...
> 
> Uh well.
> No, to be serious with you guys: Testing of the initial two prototypes wasn't as good as we wanted it to be. We weren't satisfied with the data we received, so we decided to go the hard road and give this damn block yet ANOTHER treatment, so we can deliver you guys the best possible product we are capable of. Yes, that means that it will be delayed again. No, I do not have a fixed date of arrival - probably early November. But rest assured: it will be the BEST. POSSIBLE. BLOCK.


At least you didn't rush a poor product to market. A lot of is are desperatev here though. It seems that TR4 is waiting for a killer block to destroy the competition.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How is the situation in the shop right now, when I ordered a block for 1080ti @ launch it took few weeks to get it out the door, any hope for same/next day shipping as of now ?
But overall I was so impressed with the quality of it, others cant compare, so I need another block for the new card


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Will the new radiator be pushed back as well?


Yes. We haven't finalized their designs yet, as we had so much headache with the TR blocks. Then, we also squeezed the Vega blocks in between, which also diminished the focus on the rads. So, we have no final timetable for them, but to be honest - I wouldn't be too surprised if they didn't make it in 2017









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Holy moly.
> The Heatkiller IV for TitanXp/1080Ti Nickel/plexi...
> First off, this block is STUNNING
> Second, with all the blocks i'm working with (EK, BP, Barrow, Bykski etc..) I have never ever seen such a solid block. it is top notch!
> Third, its heavy AF, ill have to use a support and foundation to hold it, Totally worth every single penny, thank you HK.


Hey, I'm glad you like it







The weight is no problem, actually. We took good care that the weight stays within the clearances for the structural integrity of normal PCIe slots. And thze block itself is so stiff that the card can't bend. It works even better with a backplate, of course!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How is the situation in the shop right now, when I ordered a block for 1080ti @ launch it took few weeks to get it out the door, any hope for same/next day shipping as of now ?
> But overall I was so impressed with the quality of it, others cant compare, so I need another block for the new card


We usually only have problems during the kick-off phase for a new product. Say in the first ~2 weeks, when production isn't perfectly clocked yet but demand is extra high. After that, we usually ship within one working day.

Re Threadripper block: Thanks to everybody for your understanding. It frustrates us more than you that we still haven't got our product out there, because we lose money by this. But we never want to compromise our own quality expectations. We feel very blessed and are deeply grateful to have such loyal followers like you guys who understand and respect this!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Re Threadripper block: Thanks to everybody for your understanding. It frustrates us more than you that we still haven't got our product out there, because we lose money by this. But we never want to compromise our own quality expectations. We feel very blessed and are deeply grateful to have such loyal followers like you guys who understand and respect this!


I am currently quite fond of the xspc block performance I have but I know from an aesthetics view point that heatkiller is gonna be something else lol. Are you guys considering on doing a VRM block from the zenith? Would sway me away from a monoblock since I know you guys don't really do that stuff. Gotta start converting to watercool now. My next build when next gen titans are out will be all heatkiller (aside from the two d5s and rads kinda not rebuything those lol, will buy heatkiller reservoirs though haha)


----------



## Phobicsq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We use a two factor authentification for new accounts. That means that you should have gotten an email with a verification link. Your account won't work before you haven't clicked on that link.
> Thanks for sharing those pics!
> 
> Concerning the O-Rings: the O-ring that comes with the D5 itself and the ones that come with our standalone D5 top and our D5 reservoir have different sizes. For installation of the top or the reservoir, you HAVE to use the ring that came with it, not the standard one that came with the D5.
> 
> Concerning the LED strip: all LED strips are tested in our workshop and worked when they left us. That doesn't mean that your specific strip couldn't have been damaged, say in traffic. Please try those three steps:
> 1. Is the strip plugged in correctly? You really need to push it all the way in.
> 2. Did the LED port work from the start? meaning, did it work with the original air cooler?
> 3. The LED port could be disabled in the software. Did you make any changes to the LED appearance? Did you already try to activate it through software (EVGA precision has a built in LED control segment, for example)?
> 
> Can you plug the strip into any other 12V supply? that way, you could test if it works altogether.
> 
> If your strip is definitely defect, we will of course send you a new strip free of charge!


Thanks for the response. I figured as much about the O ring on the pump but good to know that info.The LED gpu strip I believe was pushed in all the way, there was only one place to put it and the light function on the air cooler worked. I even installed the led visualizer and it is indeed on. I turned it off and then on again and nothing. I should have tested the LED before placing it in the block but yep that didn't happen. I'll have to take the block off and test the strip, luckily I have another one. Oh and no I didn't do anything to the led other than take put it in the gpu block.


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Concerning the O-Rings: the O-ring that comes with the D5 itself and the ones that come with our standalone D5 top and our D5 reservoir have different sizes. For installation of the top or the reservoir, you HAVE to use the ring that came with it, not the standard one that came with the D5.


Correct me if i'm wrong, i have to buy an o-ring for the D5 pump from the website if i intend to buy a different brand of D5 pump? As i already bought the D5 reservoir but as for the pump i intend to buy a different brand.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> Thanks for the response. I figured as much about the O ring on the pump but good to know that info.The LED gpu strip I believe was pushed in all the way, there was only one place to put it and the light function on the air cooler worked. I even installed the led visualizer and it is indeed on. I turned it off and then on again and nothing. I should have tested the LED before placing it in the block but yep that didn't happen. I'll have to take the block off and test the strip, luckily I have another one. Oh and no I didn't do anything to the led other than take put it in the gpu block.


Hm. that really does sound as if the strip malfunctioned. You said you already have a second strip. When you exchange those, do you have any possibility to check the strip outside of the card? And could you also check the currently installed strip? As I said, if it is faulty, we will definitely replace it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Correct me if i'm wrong, i have to buy an o-ring for the D5 pump from the website if i intend to buy a different brand of D5 pump? As i already bought the D5 reservoir but as for the pump i intend to buy a different brand.


No. The D5 reservoir comes with an O-ring. Please ONLY use that O-ring with any D5. NEVER use the O-ring that came with the pump. But you have everything you need to safely install a D5 pump into the reservoir included in the delivery scope.


----------



## ProRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hey, I'm glad you like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The weight is no problem, actually. We took good care that the weight stays within the clearances for the structural integrity of normal PCIe slots. And thze block itself is so stiff that the card can't bend. It works even better with a backplate, of course!


I do have the backplate of course ^^
What about the vertical mounting? any problems with the weight if i mount it vertically with PCIe riser?


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No. The D5 reservoir comes with an O-ring. Please ONLY use that O-ring with any D5. NEVER use the O-ring that came with the pump. But you have everything you need to safely install a D5 pump into the reservoir included in the delivery scope.


Would this be the correct one if i intend to buy a spare? http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30251 as i always keep a spare O-ring within reach


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> If what you say is true, sigh I am going to have a such a tr block collection


mind sending me the TR4 blocks you have so I can review them on my youtube channel?

only 90% serious.....


----------



## Wally West

Full Heatkiller! Once you go Heatkiller you never look back










(build is not completed)


----------



## muzammil84

some Heatkiller pics here from customer build(finished yesterday), full build log :

http://www.overclock.net/t/1639630/build-log-i7-7700k-1080ti-sli-dual-loop-corsair-900d-by-likwid-mods


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> some Heatkiller pics here from customer build(finished yesterday), full build log :
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1639630/build-log-i7-7700k-1080ti-sli-dual-loop-corsair-900d-by-likwid-mods


Very nice! My only complain is you inversed the color in the loop







Green should go through the Nvidia waterblock and blue in the Intel waterblock


----------



## LiquidHaus

very nice photos you guys. glad to see the some higher quality shots of heatkiller kit. you can never have enough.


----------



## Phobicsq

great pix put mine to shame guys!


----------



## Phobicsq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Full Heatkiller! Once you go Heatkiller you never look back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (build is not completed)


nice man, what temps you getting? is that the hero ix?


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> nice man, what temps you getting? is that the hero ix?


very nice temp! haven't look at it properly yet, but GPU doesnt go above 45C.

Crosshair VI Hero


----------



## Paprika

@Watercool-Jakob are the mo-rads case-mountable?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are the mo-rads case-mountable?


If your talking about the mo-ra3 line you're going to be hard pressed to find a case that can fit it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are the mo-rads case-mountable?


CaseLabs did have one that could fit it, I think it was the TX10 or whatever the gargantuan beast was. Sadly, it was discontinued almost two years ago. Most cases are a touch too small to mount a MO-RA3 onto, although Watercool does sell brackets for wall and/or external case mounting the radiators if you want to go with a DIY solution.


----------



## Paprika

Custom case with 3 of them in it is the plan. So case won't be an issue.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Custom case with 3 of them in it is the plan. So case won't be an issue.


If you're going custom than it should not be a problem. Two notes though, #one is that the mo-ra uses tighter screw spacing than a triple radiator because it is one solid unit. #Two mo-ra's get very heavy once you add fluid (they are no light weights when dry) so make sure whatever you're mounting to can take the weight without flexing.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> If you're going custom than it should not be a problem. Two notes though, #one is that the mo-ra uses tighter screw spacing than a triple radiator because it is one solid unit. #Two mo-ra's get very heavy once you add fluid (they are no light weights when dry) so make sure whatever you're mounting to can take the weight without flexing.


Absolutely. It's basically my next project, so going to spend a lot of time and R&D on it. The main goal is just to see what I can do with it.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Absolutely. It's basically my next project, so going to spend a lot of time and R&D on it. The main goal is just to see what I can do with it.


I loved my MoRa360, it is heavy tho(6 kg empty) so like someone said already, make sure it's fixed properly.
My old project with it:


----------



## Paprika

Two Mo-rad 420s, two normal 420 rads.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two Mo-rad 420s, two normal 420 rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


OH I AM DYING TO SEE THAT BUILT! Don't know cad for my life but that board render job is amazingly detailed.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two Mo-rad 420s, two normal 420 rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting renders to say the least... Love the fact it's a custom Parvum ^_^ there will be a build log for this, right? ^_^;;;;

Also, any particular reason for the dual MO-RA3 radiators as well as the two additional ones? I'm curious about the load they'll be supporting as that's a lot of surface!


----------



## czin125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two Mo-rad 420s, two normal 420 rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks like something that could be sold? Looks nice. It's about 20% larger than 9x360mm EK XTX rads ( older ) and that could cool 8x7990s OC'd. But being inside the case should reduce its potential due to less air volume.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> OH I AM DYING TO SEE THAT BUILT! Don't know cad for my life but that board render job is amazingly detailed.


SketchUp and it's just a picture to scale


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Will the new radiator be pushed back as well?


Out of curiosity what new radiators are you talking about? i must have missed that in this thread


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Interesting renders to say the least... Love the fact it's a custom Parvum ^_^ there will be a build log for this, right? ^_^;;;;
> 
> Also, any particular reason for the dual MO-RA3 radiators as well as the two additional ones? I'm curious about the load they'll be supporting as that's a lot of surface!


Might do a build log, yes. Not quite sure just yet.

Reason for the dual MO-RA3 and additional is.. mostly "why not".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> Out of curiosity what new radiators are you talking about? i must have missed that in this thread


There's new ones on the way, a whole lineup. Should be worth the wait.

Also, my little beast has been refined a bit:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Jk he's a big boy.

Some specs etc:
Dimensions(LxWxH) - 735x510x545~
Motherboard - E-ATX support
Fan support - 48x140mm with radiators in push-pull
Weight - Too heavy


----------



## Excession

Good lord that's a lot of fans. I was going to ask how you were going to control them, but I guess with that much surface area they'd never need to run at anything over minimum speed.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> I do have the backplate of course ^^
> What about the vertical mounting? any problems with the weight if i mount it vertically with PCIe riser?


That depends on your mounting solution. If you get a good grip in something metal and can tighten down the PCIe bracket screws real good, there should be no problem at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Would this be the correct one if i intend to buy a spare? http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30251 as i always keep a spare O-ring within reach


Exactly. And yes, we ship small items in envelope. It's 7,95€ globally, no tracking, runtime to US is declared to be 5-7 working days, but we already had customers where it took over a month.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Full Heatkiller! Once you go Heatkiller you never look back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (build is not completed)


AWESOME build. Already left a comment in your thread, absoluteley loving it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> some Heatkiller pics here from customer build(finished yesterday), full build log :
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1639630/build-log-i7-7700k-1080ti-sli-dual-loop-corsair-900d-by-likwid-mods
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow. Actually, I want to be your customer







I would have recommended to go with Heatkiller Tube reservoirs, ofc, but other than that - it's perfect!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Very nice! My only complain is you inversed the color in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Green should go through the Nvidia waterblock and blue in the Intel waterblock


















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> Out of curiosity what new radiators are you talking about? i must have missed that in this thread


We will do a full new line of radiators. single, dual and triple 120 and 140, maybe even a 4x120, all of them in three different thicknesses. As I said, they are still in design phase, so... The WILL come, we just don't know exactly when.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are the mo-rads case-mountable?


Absolutely! Please also see the manual page 6. They come with four 20mm standoffs that can be screwed into many full ATX midtower sidepanels. Other than that, we seperately sell a wall mount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Might do a build log, yes. Not quite sure just yet.
> 
> Reason for the dual MO-RA3 and additional is.. mostly "why not".
> There's new ones on the way, a whole lineup. Should be worth the wait.
> 
> Also, my little beast has been refined a bit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Jk he's a big boy.
> 
> Some specs etc:
> Dimensions(LxWxH) - 735x510x545~
> Motherboard - E-ATX support
> Fan support - 48x140mm with radiators in push-pull
> Weight - Too heavy


Love the concept! But I'd be worried about the air chamber in the back. I'm guessing you will use all MO-RA fans as intake, so they use cool air. That way, you'd have an enormous heat dump in between the two MO-RAs. The two 420s would only consume pre-warmed air and that way quite possibly not add any cooling power at all. It might be worth to remove the top radiator and to just use the top as "exhaust" for all the hot air inside.
Other than that: I'd sub every build log to such an monster INSTANTLY!









Threadripper news, anyone?



This is the cooling plate of a regular Heatkiller IV next to the coolin plate for our upcoming Heatkiller IV for TR4. We finalized the design, and all parts are already in the machines' production cycles. There will be three version: pure copper with a copper top, nickel plated copper, and Acryl Ni/bl, with an acrylic top and a black frame around the nickel. We will show the full copper version early next week, the nickel plated versions will take ~2 weeks longer.


----------



## The L33t

Will you have a pre-order for the TR blocks?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Absolutely! Please also see the manual page 6. They come with four 20mm standoffs that can be screwed into many full ATX midtower sidepanels. Other than that, we seperately sell a wall mount.
> Love the concept! But I'd be worried about the air chamber in the back. I'm guessing you will use all MO-RA fans as intake, so they use cool air. That way, you'd have an enormous heat dump in between the two MO-RAs. The two 420s would only consume pre-warmed air and that way quite possibly not add any cooling power at all. It might be worth to remove the top radiator and to just use the top as "exhaust" for all the hot air inside.
> Other than that: I'd sub every build log to such an monster INSTANTLY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've done some revising to the build already. The top radiator etc was never part of the plan tbh, will most likely just be used for exhaust/fans.
The MO-RAs should be plenty of cooling as they're both intakes as well.

Got any numbers of wattage dissipation on the MO-RA3 420s as well?


----------



## czin125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Might do a build log, yes. Not quite sure just yet.
> 
> Reason for the dual MO-RA3 and additional is.. mostly "why not".
> There's new ones on the way, a whole lineup. Should be worth the wait.
> 
> Also, my little beast has been refined a bit:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Jk he's a big boy.
> 
> Some specs etc:
> Dimensions(LxWxH) - 735x510x545~
> Motherboard - E-ATX support
> Fan support - 48x140mm with radiators in push-pull
> Weight - Too heavy


If you removed the top 420, you could place the motherboard horizontally instead of vertically as it is now. ( And move the 420 to the other spot )


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That depends on your mounting solution. If you get a good grip in something metal and can tighten down the PCIe bracket screws real good, there should be no problem at all.
> Exactly. And yes, we ship small items in envelope. It's 7,95€ globally, no tracking, runtime to US is declared to be 5-7 working days, but we already had customers where it took over a month.
> AWESOME build. Already left a comment in your thread, absoluteley loving it!
> Wow. Actually, I want to be your customer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have recommended to go with Heatkiller Tube reservoirs, ofc, but other than that - it's perfect!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We will do a full new line of radiators. single, dual and triple 120 and 140, maybe even a 4x120, all of them in three different thicknesses. As I said, they are still in design phase, so... The WILL come, we just don't know exactly when.
> Absolutely! Please also see the manual page 6. They come with four 20mm standoffs that can be screwed into many full ATX midtower sidepanels. Other than that, we seperately sell a wall mount.
> Love the concept! But I'd be worried about the air chamber in the back. I'm guessing you will use all MO-RA fans as intake, so they use cool air. That way, you'd have an enormous heat dump in between the two MO-RAs. The two 420s would only pre-warmed air and that way quite possibly not add any cooling power at all. It might be worth to remove the top radiator and to just use the top as "exhaust" for all the hot air inside.
> Other than that: I'd sub every build log to such an monster INSTANTLY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Threadripper news, anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the cooling plate of a regular Heatkiller IV next to the coolin plate for our upcoming Heatkiller IV for TR4. We finalized the design, and all parts are already in the machines' production cycles. There will be three version: pure copper with a copper top, nickel plated copper, and Acryl Ni/bl, with an acrylic top and a black frame around the nickel. We will show the full copper version early next week, the nickel plated versions will take ~2 weeks longer.































Glad to see we are making progress







I cant wait to see more shots. I will order one of the nickel plated ones as soon as you have them posted


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> If you removed the top 420, you could place the motherboard horizontally instead of vertically as it is now. ( And move the 420 to the other spot )


I could, but honestly I quite like how it is now. Not a fan or the horizontal type


----------



## Wally West

Wow, the TR cooling plate is huge!! I can't wait to see the new design.


----------



## SavantStrike

It looks like the cooling plate contains the holes for the scews into the CPU socket. The thermal engine could easily be full IHS sized!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> Will you have a pre-order for the TR blocks?


Kinda undecided on that, but probably not. We just want to get them out to you guys!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Got any numbers of wattage dissipation on the MO-RA3 420s as well?


With 18 140mm fans on full speed, a single MO-RA3 420 can easily dissipate 2500 Watts. That was the maximum that our flow heater could manage that we used for testing. But we guess that the actual "limit" could still be above that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> It looks like the cooling plate contains the holes for the scews into the CPU socket. The thermal engine could easily be full IHS sized!


Yes, absolutely! That was always the plan for the block and one of the reasons why it took us so long! It covers the full IHS and is directly screwed into the socket


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Kinda undecided on that, but probably not. We just want to get them out to you guys!
> With 18 140mm fans on full speed, a single MO-RA3 420 can easily dissipate 2500 Watts. That was the maximum that our flow heater could manage that we used for testing. But we guess that the actual "limit" could still be above that.
> Yes, absolutely! That was always the plan for the block and one of the reasons why it took us so long! It covers the full IHS and is directly screwed into the socket


Have there been any changes to the jet plate design to address the diagonal die configuration found in threadripper or did the "standard" design achieve the desired result?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Kinda undecided on that, but probably not. We just want to get them out to you guys!
> With 18 140mm fans on full speed, a single MO-RA3 420 can easily dissipate 2500 Watts. That was the maximum that our flow heater could manage that we used for testing. But we guess that the actual "limit" could still be above that.
> Yes, absolutely! That was always the plan for the block and one of the reasons why it took us so long! It covers the full IHS and is directly screwed into the socket


So you can claim you have the largest cold plate on the TR4 platform. If you have the fin area to match this should be a very good block indeed.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> With 18 140mm fans on full speed, a single MO-RA3 420 can easily dissipate 2500 Watts. That was the maximum that our flow heater could manage that we used for testing. But we guess that the actual "limit" could still be above that.


5000W it is then


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Kinda undecided on that, but probably not. We just want to get them out to you guys!
> With 18 140mm fans on full speed, a single MO-RA3 420 can easily dissipate 2500 Watts. That was the maximum that our flow heater could manage that we used for testing. But we guess that the actual "limit" could still be above that.
> Yes, absolutely! That was always the plan for the block and one of the reasons why it took us so long! It covers the full IHS and is directly screwed into the socket


What was the temperature delta of the water at 2500W, and what were the fan speeds?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> What was the temperature delta of the water at 2500W, and what were the fan speeds?


Honestly don't know. That was a hardcore test scenario during testing phase before the release of the MO-RA3 series, somewhere in 2010, way before I joined the company. Since then, only the 2,5kW number stuck around. I'll try to find some hard data on this in the archive, but can't promise anything ://


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Honestly don't know. That was a hardcore test scenario during testing phase before the release of the MO-RA3 series, somewhere in 2010, way before I joined the company. Since then, only the 2,5kW number stuck around. I'll try to find some hard data on this in the archive, but can't promise anything ://


Could you poke Christian to check his emails? Haven't heard anything from him.


----------



## skline00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob are the mo-rads case-mountable?


Paprika, I have owned a MO-RA3-420 Pro for a few years and it's a BEAST. I have it as an external free stand using the Watercool pedestal mounts with Koolance Quick release couplings.I use 9 XSPC 140mm fans and have a fan controller to keep them running at minimum level.
Here is a link to a Sep 2016 review of the Mo-RA3-420 done by ThermalBench:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/12/watercool-heatkiller-mo-ra3-420-pro-radiator/


----------



## czin125

You can use 8x 200mm fans on that 420x420 rad. Those fans don't make much noise even at 100%.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> Paprika, I have owned a MO-RA3-420 Pro for a few years and it's a BEAST. I have it as an external free stand using the Watercool pedestal mounts with Koolance Quick release couplings.I use 9 XSPC 140mm fans and have a fan controller to keep them running at minimum level.
> Here is a link to a Sep 2016 review of the Mo-RA3-420 done by ThermalBench:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/12/watercool-heatkiller-mo-ra3-420-pro-radiator/


Awesome, that's great to hear!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> You can use 8x 200mm fans on that 420x420 rad. Those fans don't make much noise even at 100%.


Main problem is availability of 180/200mm fans. Might go for that solution if I can find some decent ones.


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Awesome, that's great to hear!
> Main problem is availability of 180/200mm fans. Might go for that solution if I can find some decent ones.


200mm from Noctua is easy to find, the NF-A20. Not cheap tough.

Anyway Watercool store sells both the noctua and a BitFenix Spectre model, the BitFenix is very affordable.


----------



## czin125

The noctua 800rpm 200mm fan is barely audible at 100%.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> 200mm from Noctua is easy to find, the NF-A20. Not cheap tough.
> 
> Anyway Watercool store sells both the noctua and a BitFenix Spectre model, the BitFenix is very affordable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The noctua 800rpm 200mm fan is barely audible at 100%.


After having a gander, I might just get the Bitfenix 230mm ones. A lot cheaper buying 16 of them compared to 36 140mm ones.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> Paprika, I have owned a MO-RA3-420 Pro for a few years and it's a BEAST. I have it as an external free stand using the Watercool pedestal mounts with Koolance Quick release couplings.I use 9 XSPC 140mm fans and have a fan controller to keep them running at minimum level.
> Here is a link to a Sep 2016 review of the Mo-RA3-420 done by ThermalBench:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/12/watercool-heatkiller-mo-ra3-420-pro-radiator/


Thanks for bringing this up! In my opinion, the 4x large fan versus 9x small fan is an important part, and my private rig runs on a MO-RA3 360 with 4xSilverstone Air Penetrator 180. Of course, you get more "dead space", because the gaps between the 4 fans are larger than those between the small fans. But on the other hand, you have less "dead space" under the rotor hubs. So, the theoretical ideal configuration to reduce any dead space at all would be to equip one side with 4xlarge fans and the other side 9x small fans.

But to be honest - that radiator offers SO MUCH capacity that no end customer will ever push through to its limts. So in my opinion, there is just so much overhead that you can focus on different aspects than sheer efficiency. I focus on silence: my fans do not spin at all until water temp reaches 32°C, which it never does while idling or browsing - so the PC is cooled completely passive in that mode! When gaming, the fans go up parabolic, and usually hit ~400rpm at ~35°C water temp - which is still dead silent to me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Awesome, that's great to hear!
> Main problem is availability of 180/200mm fans. Might go for that solution if I can find some decent ones.


BAM! Here you are, good sir  Be aware that you also need this mounting bracket to install fans from 180mm to 230mm onto a MO-RA3 420.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for bringing this up! In my opinion, the 4x large fan versus 9x small fan is an important part, and my private rig runs on a MO-RA3 360 with 4xSilverstone Air Penetrator 180. Of course, you get more "dead space", because the gaps between the 4 fans are larger than those between the small fans. But on the other hand, you have less "dead space" under the rotor hubs. So, the theoretical ideal configuration to reduce any dead space at all would be to equip one side with 4xlarge fans and the other side 9x small fans.
> 
> But to be honest - that radiator offers SO MUCH capacity that no end customer will ever push through to its limts. So in my opinion, there is just so much overhead that you can focus on different aspects than sheer efficiency. I focus on silence: my fans do not spin at all until water temp reaches 32°C, which it never does while idling or browsing - so the PC is cooled completely passive in that mode! When gaming, the fans go up parabolic, and usually hit ~400rpm at ~35°C water temp - which is still dead silent to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BAM! Here you are, good sir  Be aware that you also need this mounting bracket to install fans from 180mm to 230mm onto a MO-RA3 420.


It really is a versatile radiator... I have used mine for years now in both extremes, enb server fans cooling around 2k watts or the current config with _"low"_ noise fans cooling around 1k watts (excuse the case servers dont get much case love at my house







)


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for bringing this up! In my opinion, the 4x large fan versus 9x small fan is an important part, and my private rig runs on a MO-RA3 360 with 4xSilverstone Air Penetrator 180. Of course, you get more "dead space", because the gaps between the 4 fans are larger than those between the small fans. But on the other hand, you have less "dead space" under the rotor hubs. So, the theoretical ideal configuration to reduce any dead space at all would be to equip one side with 4xlarge fans and the other side 9x small fans.
> 
> But to be honest - that radiator offers SO MUCH capacity that no end customer will ever push through to its limts. So in my opinion, there is just so much overhead that you can focus on different aspects than sheer efficiency. I focus on silence: my fans do not spin at all until water temp reaches 32°C, which it never does while idling or browsing - so the PC is cooled completely passive in that mode! When gaming, the fans go up parabolic, and usually hit ~400rpm at ~35°C water temp - which is still dead silent to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BAM! Here you are, good sir  Be aware that you also need this mounting bracket to install fans from 180mm to 230mm onto a MO-RA3 420.


Will you paint those fans black for me? I'll take 16 of them









In all seriousness though, I'll go with http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/60221 most likely. Unless some new fancy fan comes out in the meanwhile.


----------



## czin125

Does the 4x230mm perform better or worse than 9x140x25mm at ~1500 rpm?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> Does the 4x230mm perform better or worse than 9x140x25mm at ~1500 rpm?


200-230mm fans usually cap out at about 1000rpm either way, but 9x140 at 1500rpm will definitely be better performing.


----------



## ProRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> It really is a versatile radiator... I have used mine for years now in both extremes, enb server fans cooling around 2k watts or the current config with _"low"_ noise fans cooling around 1k watts (excuse the case servers dont get much case love at my house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 3 images


Could easily use that as a fully tuned twin turbo sports car radiator and be good to go.
Why would you possibly need so much cooling power?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Could easily use that as a fully tuned twin turbo sports car radiator and be good to go.
> Why would you possibly need so much cooling power?


Quiet performance.

SLI/Crossfire plus a HEDT chip, or multi machines.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Could easily use that as a fully tuned twin turbo sports car radiator and be good to go.
> Why would you possibly need so much cooling power?


These days quiet cooling for 24/7 load that the server runs. But back in the old days it was for cooling the triple gtx 780's I had clocked to the moon and back








the power those consumed was unreal once you really started pushing the voltage. I had to install a dedicated circuit for that rig as it would blow breakers with ease.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> These days quiet cooling for 24/7 load that the server runs. But back in the old days it was for cooling the triple gtx 780's I had clocked to the moon and back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the power those consumed was unreal once you really started pushing the voltage. I had to install a dedicated circuit for that rig as it would blow breakers with ease.


I've tripped a breaker with my 4 way 1080 TI setup. The breaker was on a dedicated 15A circuit. I couldnt run my amp while my TV was on or I had to throttle my CPU. A 20A circuit fixed the problem. I'm on a phobya extreme Nova 1080 60mm, so it's smaller than the mo-ra but still in the same ballpark.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I've tripped a breaker with my 4 way 1080 TI setup. The breaker was on a dedicated 15A circuit. I couldnt run my amp while my TV was on or I had to throttle my CPU. A 20A circuit fixed the problem. I'm on a phobya extreme Nova 1080 60mm, so it's smaller than the mo-ra but still in the same ballpark.


4 1080ti's is a rare configuration these days that is awesome that you're keeping the quad gpu dream alive







. Yeah same boat here ran a dedicated circuit and 20amp breaker for just the pc. Its overkill for what I am running now but back then I was using as much power as I could get my hands on


----------



## Memmento Mori

*English:

"HEATKILLER® IV graphics card cooler for RX Vega 56 and 64 available

We are pleased to announce that our graphics card coolers for AMD Radeon RX Vega 56 and 64 are now fully available.

The core features include excellent performance with the lowest possible flow resistance. With these coolers, a Radeon RX Vega can be cooled very effectively.

In the lighting we have thought of something new this time. On the one hand, the radiator can be illuminated as usual with a single-color LED stripe. For this, the stripe is simply plugged into the LED connector of the card. Alternatively, can now also an RGB-LED stripe be used. For this purpose the cable is led out of the cooler and connected to one of the RGB LED connectors of the mainboard or another RGB LED controller. This allows the radiator to be easily integrated into an existing lighting concept."*

_*German:

"HEATKILLER® IV Grafikkartenkühler für RX Vega 56 und 64 verfügbar

Wir freuen uns mitzuteilen, dass unsere Grafikkartenkühler für AMD Radeon RX Vega 56 und 64 nun vollständig verfügbar sind.

Zu den Kernfeatures gehört eine hervorragende Leistungsfähigkeit bei möglichst geringem Durchflusswiederstand. Mit diesen Kühlern kann eine Radeon RX Vega sehr effektiv gekühlt werden.

Bei der Beleuchtung haben wir uns diesmal etwas Neues einfallen lassen. Zum einen kann der Kühler wie gewohnt mit einem Single-Color-LED Stripe illuminiert werden. Dazu wird das Stripe einfach in den LED Anschluss der Karte gesteckt. Alternativ kann aber nun auch ein RGB-LED Stripe eingesetzt werden. Hierzu wird das Kabel aus dem Kühler herausgeführt und mit einem der RGB LED Anschlüsse des Mainboards oder einer anderen RGB LED Steuerung verbunden. Dadurch kann der Kühler problemlos in ein bestehendes Beleuchtungskonzept eingebunden werden."*_

*Source: HERE.....*
*Direct shop link: Here*

*Pictures:*

*Acryl:*




*Acryl Ni:*









*Acryl Ni-Bl:*


----------



## JasonMorris

Very nice coolers...Must not be tempted.


----------



## Revan654

Only have a phone to take the photos.

Getting toward the end now, Specially with all my glass tube runs. Also replaced the flex lighting that I bought with the res with UV lighting (I double it with a stick on the res plate) to increase the UV effect.


----------



## Memmento Mori

Are this the Tube 200 in a SM8?

What is the plate you mount them on?

Looks nice


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Memmento Mori*
> 
> Are this the Tube 200 in a SM8?
> 
> What is the plate you mount them on?
> 
> Looks nice


Thanks, There 200 Tubes and no, it's a Case-Labs THW10 with the dual plate.


----------



## Paprika

Heatkiller Tube 200 DDC anyone?


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> This is the cooling plate of a regular Heatkiller IV next to the coolin plate for our upcoming Heatkiller IV for TR4. We finalized the design, and all parts are already in the machines' production cycles. There will be three version: pure copper with a copper top, nickel plated copper, and Acryl Ni/bl, with an acrylic top and a black frame around the nickel. *We will show the full copper version early next week,* the nickel plated versions will take ~2 weeks longer.


How is that coming?









Have my basket full of goodies from you guys, only one thing missing for a full Heatkiller setup.


----------



## TheArkratos

Any possibility of getting a VRM block for the Gigabyte x399 Aorus Gaming 7?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> Any possibility of getting a VRM block for the Gigabyte x399 Aorus Gaming 7?


This board actually does need one. They are going to be doing the zenith so guess we will see.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> Any possibility of getting a VRM block for the Gigabyte x399 Aorus Gaming 7?


I hope they do the x399 Taichi/Fatality first.









No idea if they'll do either though.


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I hope they do the x399 Taichi/Fatality first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No idea if they'll do either though.


It's the first time in a long time that VRM actually benefits from active cooling and long are the days of fans on motherboards.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Sorry, no other boards planned right now... We are aware that there is a huge demand, but we have so much other stuff in the pipeline that we simply need to select possible products and focus our capacities to certain projects. Right now, thats Threadripper, Zenith and Apex, and radiators.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Sorry, no other boards planned right now... We are aware that there is a huge demand, but we have so much other stuff in the pipeline that we simply need to select possible products and focus our capacities to certain projects. Right now, thats Threadripper, Zenith and Apex, and radiators.


Does that mean a full block for the zenith or vrm only?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Does that mean a full block for the zenith or vrm only?


vrm only as far as I understand it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

*ANNOUNCEMENT!!!*

You all waited very patiently, and we are deeply grateful for that. So it's my pleasure to finally be able to show you a visualization for our upcoming Threadripper blocks! All three versions will be available for pre-order in our shop tomorrow, starting with a nice 10% pre-order discount. All blocks come with the new, unique easy-mount system, directly mounted through the cold plate with no additional brackets. All mounting screws are driven with an allen key for the easiest mounting experience.



The full copper block is the pure version for copper enthusiasts. A huge copper base plate and a massive top made from one solid piece of copper offer superior cooling performance. Available from November 10th.



The Nickel block offers the unique nickel shinyness for those that don't like the pure copper aesthetics. Also made from two pieces of massive copper, then nickel plated. Available from November 24th.



The Nickel/black version is the jack of all trades. It offers the nickel plated base plate, an acrylic top, and a black anodized front cover. Under this cover, there's a preinstalled RGB LED strip that comes with a black paracord sleeved cable, long enough to directly connect it to the RGB headers found on all current X399 motherboards. Available from November 24th.

All pictures are pre-visualization renders. Especially the inlet/outlet are not rendered in detail and will look more elaborate in the final product. Also, the jet structure will be more elaborate in the final product.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> *ANNOUNCEMENT!!!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You all waited very patiently, and we are deeply grateful for that. So it's my pleasure to finally be able to show you a visualization for our upcoming Threadripper blocks! All three versions will be available for pre-order in our shop tomorrow, starting with a nice 10% pre-order discount. All blocks come with the new, unique easy-mount system, directly mounted through the cold plate with no additional brackets. All mounting screws are driven with an allen key for the easiest mounting experience.
> 
> 
> 
> The full copper block is the pure version for copper enthusiasts. A huge copper base plate and a massive top made from one solid piece of copper offer superior cooling performance. Available from November 10th.
> 
> 
> 
> The Nickel block offers the unique nickel shinyness for those that don't like the pure copper aesthetics. Also made from two pieces of massive copper, then nickel plated. Available from November 24th.
> 
> 
> 
> The Nickel/black version is the jack of all trades. It offers the nickel plated base plate, an acrylic top, and a black anodized front cover. Under this cover, there's a preinstalled RGB LED strip that comes with a black paracord sleeved cable, long enough to directly connect it to the RGB headers found on all current X399 motherboards. Available from November 24th.
> 
> All pictures are pre-visualization renders. Especially the inlet/outlet are not rendered in detail and will look more elaborate in the final product. Also, the jet structure will be more elaborate in the final product.


Great work--those have to be the best looking TR blocks yet!


----------



## Barefooter

Those Threadripper blocks look great!

I know you guys are super busy right now. I want a VRM block for a Rampage Extreme VI please









It seems like that would be one of the easiest blocks to design and produce. I'll buy all Heatkiller blocks if I can get a VRM block.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I know you guys are super busy right now. I want a VRM block for a Rampage Extreme VI please


^ +1, it would go great with my HEATKILLER® IV PRO and (IMHO) would look soooooo much better than any of the monoblock products currently available elsewhere.









...and I'd still be able to continue using the HEATKILLER® IV PRO


----------



## Revan654

^This was hardest part to do, Holding the radiator trying to get the glass tubing into the other fitting. Screwing the radiator bracket in and Also making sure tubing would not crack or snap.

The last glass tubing has been installed. Next step Leak testing. Hopefully the distilled water will remove all the left over residue from cutting the tubing.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Lol some of you guys are so demanding. I love the fact that we all want Heatkiller blocks for every hardware component we own but the fact of the matter is we have to think about it from their perspective; will it be cost effective to make? Will it be received well and sell even better? Will the initial design to manufacture timeframe remain relevant? Hardware moves fast these days.

In regards to Threadripper, the platform will have years of staying power. It's a great low cost solution for those of us that require the compute power compared to Intel's offerings. AMD's roadmaps and product line are currently designed for that long term usage and value.

Intel's business model essentially dictates motherboard manufacturers to create new hardware every year with very little variance and performance increases. For a watercooling company, this is especially tough. They have to try their hardest to stay ahead of the curve and pump out new product that they feel confident will remain relevant enough that they don't end up sitting on left over product they spent so much time and money producing.

This is pretty much why sometimes Bitspower will make a monoblock for a board and only sell it as a dropship item. While the block would be awesome to be stocked up on, it's not worth it to them to ship so many worldwide when only a select few will actually buy it. They're indeed a bit harder to get compared to EK monoblocks, but Bitspower has still made the smarter move going about it this way.

These are simply my thoughts on the matter. Take it for what you will. But I truly believe that Watercool is going about this in a very smart manner, and the most respectful thing we can do is remain patient, and maybe not be so bossy or demanding.


----------



## Wally West

Exactly, I would love to see more fittings/radiator versus a monoblock for a very specific board.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Lol some of you guys are so demanding. I love the fact that we all want Heatkiller blocks for every hardware component we own but the fact of the matter is we have to think about it from their perspective; will it be cost effective to make? Will it be received well and sell even better? Will the initial design to manufacture timeframe remain relevant? Hardware moves fast these days.
> 
> In regards to Threadripper, the platform will have years of staying power. It's a great low cost solution for those of us that require the compute power compared to Intel's offerings. AMD's roadmaps and product line are currently designed for that long term usage and value.
> 
> Intel's business model essentially dictates motherboard manufacturers to create new hardware every year with very little variance and performance increases. For a watercooling company, this is especially tough. They have to try their hardest to stay ahead of the curve and pump out new product that they feel confident will remain relevant enough that they don't end up sitting on left over product they spent so much time and money producing.
> 
> This is pretty much why sometimes Bitspower will make a monoblock for a board and only sell it as a dropship item. While the block would be awesome to be stocked up on, it's not worth it to them to ship so many worldwide when only a select few will actually buy it. They're indeed a bit harder to get compared to EK monoblocks, but Bitspower has still made the smarter move going about it this way.
> 
> These are simply my thoughts on the matter. Take it for what you will. But I truly believe that Watercool is going about this in a very smart manner, and the most respectful thing we can do is remain patient, and maybe not be so bossy or demanding.


Don't get me wrong, I thoroughly understand the situation and agree with what you said. While I'd love to see WC market a VRM block for the higher end x299 motherboards, my post above was more of a suggestion (a seed, if you will)--I hope it wasn't interpreted as being bossy. That said, I did note that WC is looking to hire an extra designer to help take up some of the slack and I wish them well as they make some of the best water cooling products available today; and their customer service is obviously also fantastic, given the experiences many have already shared about that









LiquidHaus? _Sie sind aber auch Deutscher, ja?_


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I know you guys are super busy right now. I want a VRM block for a Rampage Extreme VI please


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> ^ +1, it would go great with my HEATKILLER® IV PRO and (IMHO) would look soooooo much better than any of the monoblock products currently available elsewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and I'd still be able to continue using the HEATKILLER® IV PRO


Let me answer with a quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Sorry, no other boards planned right now... We are aware that there is a huge demand, but we have so much other stuff in the pipeline that we simply need to select possible products and focus our capacities to certain projects. Right now, that's Threadripper, Zenith and Apex, and radiators.


We are deeply gracious for your input and great ideas, but simply can't cram anything more into our schedule. You all know yourselves that we are way behind on the TR blocks and wanted to have them out earlier, so we really need to cut some attractive and interesting parts out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> What was the temperature delta of the water at 2500W, and what were the fan speeds?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Honestly don't know. That was a hardcore test scenario during testing phase before the release of the MO-RA3 series, somewhere in 2010, way before I joined the company. Since then, only the 2,5kW number stuck around. I'll try to find some hard data on this in the archive, but can't promise anything ://


I still owed you an exact answer here. I did some digging and actually did find some old logs!
Radiator: MO-RA3 360
Fans: 9x120mm Yate Loon
Fan speed: 1200rpm
Flow heater: 1,8 kW
Delta-T: 11°K

As a rule of thumb, equipping the MO-RA on both sides yields a 50% performance boost, so that's where the 2,5kW came from that I had in my mind. Obviously, if you are willing to tolerate worse delta-T or higher fan speed, the maximum coolable temperature grows even further.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Lol some of you guys are so demanding. I love the fact that we all want Heatkiller blocks for every hardware component we own but the fact of the matter is we have to think about it from their perspective; will it be cost effective to make? Will it be received well and sell even better? Will the initial design to manufacture timeframe remain relevant? Hardware moves fast these days.
> 
> In regards to Threadripper, the platform will have years of staying power. It's a great low cost solution for those of us that require the compute power compared to Intel's offerings. AMD's roadmaps and product line are currently designed for that long term usage and value.
> 
> Intel's business model essentially dictates motherboard manufacturers to create new hardware every year with very little variance and performance increases. For a watercooling company, this is especially tough. They have to try their hardest to stay ahead of the curve and pump out new product that they feel confident will remain relevant enough that they don't end up sitting on left over product they spent so much time and money producing.
> 
> [


im agree with you about VRM or mono block, but if you look at Intel CPU block, they have the same mounting for so many years now, i think the R&D for these block are now paid
Z79 X99 and now X299 use exact same block, same for 1155. 1150 and 1151 and older with a simple different mount

i think do a VRM block for most popular board is not a issue at all, here in this situation, i understand Watercool, so many different hardware released in very sort time, impossible to follow

same for GPU, you have no idea how many build i can do with only Watercool product if Strix block was avalaible and i hate mixing brand for waterblock


----------



## nycgtr

Their web shop handler got into an car accident, but they are still looking to get it up on the site for preorder today.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Their web shop handler got into an car accident, but they are still looking to get it up on the site for preorder today.


I will slow my f5 spam


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Lol some of you guys are so demanding. I love the fact that we all want Heatkiller blocks for every hardware component we own but the fact of the matter is we have to think about it from their perspective; will it be cost effective to make? Will it be received well and sell even better? Will the initial design to manufacture timeframe remain relevant? Hardware moves fast these days.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I thoroughly understand the situation and agree with what you said. While I'd love to see WC market a VRM block for the higher end x299 motherboards, my post above was more of a suggestion (a seed, if you will)--I hope it wasn't interpreted as being bossy. That said, I did note that WC is looking to hire an extra designer to help take up some of the slack and I wish them well as they make some of the best water cooling products available today; and their customer service is obviously also fantastic, given the experiences many have already shared about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LiquidHaus? _Sie sind aber auch Deutscher, ja?_


I am quite aware that Watercool currently has their hands full. Like iamjanco my comment was merely to let Watercool know that there is demand for a VRM block for the Asus Rampage VI board. Also there is not much design work necessary for a VRM block compared with all other blocks it is very simple, a certain size rectangular block with two ports. It would be one of the easiest and fastest blocks to design and produce.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im agree with you about VRM or mono block, but if you look at Intel CPU block, they have the same mounting for so many years now, i think the R&D for these block are now paid
> Z79 X99 and now X299 use exact same block, same for 1155. 1150 and 1151 and older with a simple different mount
> 
> i think do a VRM block for most popular board is not a issue at all, here in this situation, i understand Watercool, so many different hardware released in very sort time, impossible to follow
> 
> same for GPU, you have no idea how many build i can do with only Watercool product if Strix block was avalaible and *i hate mixing brand for waterblock*


This is where I am coming from. I also hate to mix water block brands. Shortly I'll be in need of a CPU block, two GPU blocks plus the VRM. So no VRM block produced could cost Watercool the sale of four blocks not just one


----------



## Paprika

Was there some solution to not being able to create an account? Can't for the life of me make one.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Has the pre-order gone live yet? Do I need an account to access it?


----------



## hebrewbacon

I just ordered the copper one. I'm really stoked as I've been waiting for this block for a long time. The EK one was just a stop gap until I got a REAL block in there.


----------



## jarble

Just finished my preorder for the nickel flavor









@Watercool-Jakob Gave you a shout out in the notes







thanks again for keeping us informed on this block through thick and thin


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> I just ordered the copper one. I'm really stoked as I've been waiting for this block for a long time. The EK one was just a stop gap until I got a REAL block in there.


The exact same thing. Hope lots of people buy these to reward Jakob and team.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> This is where I am coming from. I also hate to mix water block brands. Shortly I'll be in need of a CPU block, two GPU blocks plus the VRM. So no VRM block produced could cost Watercool the sale of four blocks not just one


We are absolutely aware of that. Nevertheless, our supply of hands, brains and time is unfortunately limited. SO I can just repeat my previous statements: we know that you wish for more vrm blocks, but we just cannot do it, as much as we'd love too.
And I seriously mean no offense, but I'd really appreciate if we could drop the "please make a vrm block for motherboard XY" - topic until ~January, because I really have nothing to add here and hate repeating myself in every post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Was there some solution to not being able to create an account? Can't for the life of me make one.


We use a two factor authentification. You should have gotten a confirmation email where you have to click a confirmation link. Please check your spam filters.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Has the pre-order gone live yet? Do I need an account to access it?


Yes and yes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Just finished my preorder for the nickel flavor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Gave you a shout out in the notes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again for keeping us informed on this block through thick and thin


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> The exact same thing. Hope lots of people buy these to reward Jakob and team.


Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely forgot to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are absolutely aware of that. Nevertheless, our supply of hands, brains and time is unfortunately limited. SO I can just repeat my previous statements: we know that you wish for more vrm blocks, but we just cannot do it, as much as we'd love too.
> And I seriously mean no offense, but I'd really appreciate if we could drop the "please make a vrm block for motherboard XY" - topic until ~January, because I really have nothing to add here and hate repeating myself in every post.
> We use a two factor authentification. You should have gotten a confirmation email where you have to click a confirmation link. Please check your spam filters.
> Yes and yes.
> 
> Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
> So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


I think you can safely tell your boss you directly created a significant number of sales while also acting as a strong brand ambassador.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> We are absolutely aware of that. Nevertheless, our supply of hands, brains and time is unfortunately limited. SO I can just repeat my previous statements: we know that you wish for more vrm blocks, but we just cannot do it, as much as we'd love too.
> And I seriously mean no offense, but I'd really appreciate if we could drop the "please make a vrm block for motherboard XY" - topic until ~January, because I really have nothing to add here and hate repeating myself in every post.
> We use a two factor authentification. You should have gotten a confirmation email where you have to click a confirmation link. Please check your spam filters.
> Yes and yes.
> 
> 
> 
> Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
> So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


Congratulations









Having a forum presence is a huge plus for the watercool brand imo. It really makes the company much more relatable and personable when I can chat about things without it having to be a helpdesk event







.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> I think you can safely tell your boss you directly created a significant number of sales while also acting as a strong brand ambassador.


Well, I first heard of watercool here. So Jakob is doing an amazing job haha.


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely forgot to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
> So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


Congrats!


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We use a two factor authentification. You should have gotten a confirmation email where you have to click a confirmation link. Please check your spam filters.


Unfortunately nothing for the last few hours.
Hold one off for me and check emails.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely forgot to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
> So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


You can definitely tell Rico we all appreciate you


----------



## Mads1

@Watercool-Jakob Congratz fella on promotion, to one of many few nice's blokes in the PC World that i have dealt with.


----------



## Jyve

Gotta admit you and this thread are the 2 reasons I switched my cpu block over to the HK 4. Gorgeous block and is know if I have any issues or questions I can come here.

Congrats! Much deserved.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> I think you can safely tell your boss you directly created a significant number of sales while also acting as a strong brand ambassador.


THIS, very much this! Congrats Jakob!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Oh, you guys are so sweet! Thanks for all the approval











What's that, you ask? Well yes, this is a Threadripper Heatkiller block coming with an AMD-red front cover! For the full #TeamRed glory







Get it here!


----------



## BakerMan1971

That is one of the best looking blocks ever


----------



## paskowitz

Gosh darn, I wish I could justify Threadripper just for these blocks.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Oh, you guys are so sweet! Thanks for all the approval
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's that, you ask? Well yes, this is a Threadripper Heatkiller block coming with an AMD-red front cover! For the full #TeamRed glory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it here!


Looks nice







any plans for a acrylic top with a nickel surround? I feel the anodised one might be a bit too much black for my build if not the solid nickle I already have on preorder will be just fine.


----------



## fx3861

Has anyone tried using the MB-X kit for Maximus viii Hero b4? Just wondering if it will fiit onto a Maximus X Hero.


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> What's that, you ask? Well yes, this is a Threadripper Heatkiller block coming with an AMD-red front cover! For the full #TeamRed glory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it here!


That looks really nice as well especially for folks who have a red AMD theme going on. I got a blue theme in my build so this would be out of place. Can't wait to show off that copper


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Looks nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any plans for a acrylic top with a nickel surround? I feel the anodised one might be a bit too much black for my build if not the solid nickle I already have on preorder will be just fine.


This does sound like a nice idea...


----------



## snef

another build with Heatkiller block (Darkside Version) For Asus ROG

Crystal Blood


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We are absolutely aware of that. Nevertheless, our supply of hands, brains and time is unfortunately limited. SO I can just repeat my previous statements: we know that you wish for more vrm blocks, but we just cannot do it, as much as we'd love too.
> And I seriously mean no offense, but I'd really appreciate if we could drop the "please make a vrm block for motherboard XY" - topic until ~January, because I really have nothing to add here and hate repeating myself in every post.
> We use a two factor authentification. You should have gotten a confirmation email where you have to click a confirmation link. Please check your spam filters.
> Yes and yes.
> 
> Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely forgot to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
> So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


Congratulations Jakob, you've earned it brother!

I'll take a few minutes to write an email to watercool thanking them for hiring a valuable member to their team. Your service to the community and to watercool is very valuable. A strong rep presence is crucial in specialty markets.

Moving on to the awesome sauce threadripper block, I have three questions:

1. Do you have dimensions for the fin area in mm? If you've got dimensions for the HKIV pro those would be helpful too for comparison purposes.

2. Is Watercool planning to send out a block to HardOCP. I think I asked this before but I forgot the answer. So far HardOCP is the only news outlet to compare multiple TR4 water blocks in a useful format.

3. Is the RED AMD TR4 water block equipped with RGB LEDs like it's black acrylic counterpart? The write up on the site doesn't say conclusively.

I'm really looking forward to this block! I'll probably have some questions soon about the universal VRM blocks water cool sells (SW-X series). I could pair one of those with this block and have an all water cool loop for CPU+Motherboard.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Looks nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any plans for a acrylic top with a nickel surround? I feel the anodised one might be a bit too much black for my build if not the solid nickle I already have on preorder will be just fine.


Currently not. First, we want to kick off with those four versions and see how they sell. We might do that additional top later on, but can't promise anything here...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Has anyone tried using the MB-X kit for Maximus viii Hero b4? Just wondering if it will fiit onto a Maximus X Hero.


Very very unlikely. You might be lucky, but we seriously doubt it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> another build with Heatkiller block (Darkside Version) For Asus ROG
> 
> Crystal Blood
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome build man! Thanksa for sharing those pics here, too!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Moving on to the awesome sauce threadripper block, I have three questions:
> 
> 1. Do you have dimensions for the fin area in mm? If you've got dimensions for the HKIV pro those would be helpful too for comparison purposes.
> 
> 2. Is Watercool planning to send out a block to HardOCP. I think I asked this before but I forgot the answer. So far HardOCP is the only news outlet to compare multiple TR4 water blocks in a useful format.
> 
> 3. Is the RED AMD TR4 water block equipped with RGB LEDs like it's black acrylic counterpart? The write up on the site doesn't say conclusively.
> 
> I'm really looking forward to this block! I'll probably have some questions soon about the universal VRM blocks water cool sells (SW-X series). I could pair one of those with this block and have an all water cool loop for CPU+Motherboard.


1. We do not want to publish those numbers. What I can tell you is that the new fin area is more than 80% bigger than that of the HK IV.
2. Yes, already arranged








3. Yes, it is. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll try to clarify that paragraph.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> *Currently not. First, we want to kick off with those four versions and see how they sell. We might do that additional top later on, but can't promise anything here...*
> Very very unlikely. You might be lucky, but we seriously doubt it.
> Awesome build man! Thanksa for sharing those pics here, too!
> 1. We do not want to publish those numbers. What I can tell you is that the new fin area is more than 80% bigger than that of the HK IV.
> 2. Yes, already arranged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Yes, it is. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll try to clarify that paragraph.


Thanks I just wanted to be sure that it was not about to be announced and I had pounced to soon







. Also good to see that you guys are going to get it reviewed


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 2. Yes, already arranged


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Currently not. First, we want to kick off with those four versions and see how they sell. We might do that additional top later on, but can't promise anything here...
> Very very unlikely. You might be lucky, but we seriously doubt it.
> Awesome build man! Thanksa for sharing those pics here, too!
> 1. We do not want to publish those numbers. What I can tell you is that the new fin area is more than 80% bigger than that of the HK IV.
> 2. Yes, already arranged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Yes, it is. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll try to clarify that paragraph.


@Jakob, is the plan still to ship the all copper version on 11/10 (this Friday)?


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Currently not. First, we want to kick off with those four versions and see how they sell. We might do that additional top later on, but can't promise anything here...
> Very very unlikely. You might be lucky, but we seriously doubt it.
> Awesome build man! Thanksa for sharing those pics here, too!
> 1. We do not want to publish those numbers. What I can tell you is that the new fin area is more than 80% bigger than that of the HK IV.
> 2. Yes, already arranged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Yes, it is. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll try to clarify that paragraph.


You may want to fix the Red version description, on the section "Scope of delivery:" you have "HEATKILLER® IV PRO for Threadripper™ ACRYL NICKEL/*BLACK*" on the RED version


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Currently not. First, we want to kick off with those four versions and see how they sell. We might do that additional top later on, but can't promise anything here...
> Very very unlikely. You might be lucky, but we seriously doubt it.
> Awesome build man! Thanksa for sharing those pics here, too!
> 1. *We do not want to publish those numbers. What I can tell you is that the new fin area is more than 80% bigger than that of the HK IV.*
> 2. Yes, already arranged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Yes, it is. Thanks for the heads-up, I'll try to clarify that paragraph.


I hope it's bigger than the EK waterblock I currently have as the fin coverage on that block is pathetic.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> @Jakob, is the plan still to ship the all copper version on 11/10 (this Friday)?


Shipping will start on Friday. We currently have a lot of pre-orders which is great. But this might also lead to some orders being shipped on Monday.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> You may want to fix the Red version description, on the section "Scope of delivery:" you have "HEATKILLER® IV PRO for Threadripper™ ACRYL NICKEL/*BLACK*" on the RED version


Ugh. I'm sorry, seems I was tired when I did this product description -.- Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> I hope it's bigger than the EK waterblock I currently have as the fin coverage on that block is pathetic.


It definitely is. I got clearance to talk about the fin array, actually: Our fin array covers approx 35x55mm. The cooling structure itself comes from the Heatkiller IV block, with a slotwidth of 0.2mm.


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Sorry, no other boards planned right now... We are aware that there is a huge demand, but we have so much other stuff in the pipeline that we simply need to select possible products and focus our capacities to certain projects. Right now, thats Threadripper, Zenith and Apex, and radiators.


Hi Jakob.

So from your posts I deduced that you guys are preparing an Maximus X Apex VRM block right ? It will not be a monoblock right ? So I can safely get the Heatkiller IV for my CPU now and the vrm block once released ? when is going to be that ??


----------



## Bart

Heatkiller radiators? Nice!


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Heatkiller radiators? Nice!


Yeah! Excited to see what they will come up with. I'm about to pull the trigger on 4x420 rads from Aqua Computer for my monster project but if watercool is coming up with nice rads soon I can wait for it!


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Shipping will start on Friday. We currently have a lot of pre-orders which is great. But this might also lead to some orders being shipped on Monday.
> Ugh. I'm sorry, seems I was tired when I did this product description -.- Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
> It definitely is. I got clearance to talk about the fin array, actually: Our fin array covers approx 35x55mm. The cooling structure itself comes from the Heatkiller IV block, with a slotwidth of 0.2mm.


Need that vrm and cpu combo. Waiting on the vrm block before I drop a heatkiller in. That fin array sounds tasty.


----------



## Paprika

Smaller than Phanteks', but I expect much better results.


----------



## The EX1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Unfortunately nothing for the last few hours.
> Hold one off for me and check emails.


My 2FA email from the Watercool site never made it to my inbox or spam. I had to message sales to get them to activate it for me.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> So from your posts I deduced that you guys are preparing an Maximus X Apex VRM block right ? It will not be a monoblock right ? So I can safely get the Heatkiller IV for my CPU now and the vrm block once released ? when is going to be that ??


Definitely no Monoblock. VRM only is our way to go. ETA: when Threadripper production is hiccup-free and steadily rolling. Probably December-ish...?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Heatkiller radiators? Nice!


Yup







We are designing a full lineup. 120mm and 140mm, slim / medium / thick, single dual triple, maybe even quadrupple 120s. A lot of products that need to be synchronized, tested, reviewed, redesigned, tested again... And all that while this enormous Threadripper block kept making trouble









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Smaller than Phanteks', but I expect much better results.


But then again, Phanteks' channels are way thicker, thusly creating way less surface, and I'm not convinced with the way they direct the flow. We are currently cross-testing competitors' products at our bench and things are looking pretty good









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The EX1*
> 
> My 2FA email from the Watercool site never made it to my inbox or spam. I had to message sales to get them to activate it for me.


We did have a few hiccups lately with the registration form. Please always feel free to contact me if you are experiencing any problems!


----------



## Bart

I look forward to trying these new rads!! I think the only rad manufacturer I haven't tried yet is Hardware Labs. Tried everything else though, and currently have 5 rads from 3 different manufacturers in my current rig. I think I have a rad fetish!


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> But then again, Phanteks' channels are way thicker, thusly creating way less surface, and I'm not convinced with the way they direct the flow. We are currently cross-testing competitors' products at our bench and things are looking pretty good


Figured that'd be the case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are designing a full lineup. 120mm and 140mm, slim / medium / thick, single dual triple, maybe even quadrupple 120s. A lot of products that need to be synchronized, tested, reviewed, redesigned, tested again... And all that while this enormous Threadripper block kept making trouble


..new mo-ra3?


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, I ordered a 120 rad bracket for my Tube res. However, my rads are M4 threaded, and the 120 bracket only shipped with M3 screws. Is there an option for m4 screws? Or do I need to change rads altogether?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys, I ordered a 120 rad bracket for my Tube res. However, my rads are M4 threaded, and the 120 bracket only shipped with M3 screws. Is there an option for m4 screws? Or do I need to change rads altogether?


Maybe some oversized washers?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> I look forward to trying these new rads!! I think the only rad manufacturer I haven't tried yet is Hardware Labs. Tried everything else though, and currently have 5 rads from 3 different manufacturers in my current rig. I think I have a rad fetish!


Hardware Labs is probably one of the best performers out there. I have 3 Hardware Labs radiators, and one Alphacool Monsta with my current setup. Watercool has some tough competition but oh do I have faith in them to deliver.

Even if they aren't the best, the differences would most likely be so minor you wouldn't see a real world difference. And I already know they'll look incredible so I already foresee my system packed full of Heatkiller radiators lol.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys, I ordered a 120 rad bracket for my Tube res. However, my rads are M4 threaded, and the 120 bracket only shipped with M3 screws. Is there an option for m4 screws? Or do I need to change rads altogether?


Not sure how the bracket is setup. I assume there just using a basic M4 screw to attach the bracket to the radiator. Your basic M4 screw should work which most hardware stores sell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Maybe some oversized washers?


Oversized washers wouldn't do a thing. Putting a M3 screw inside M4 threaded hole, The screw will be way to loose and fall out with any kind of vibration.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Oversized washers wouldn't do a thing. Putting a M3 screw inside M4 threaded hole, The screw will be way to loose and fall out with any kind of vibration.


I see I misread pretty badly.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Figured that'd be the case.
> ..new mo-ra3?


There will be a new MO-RA revision one day. We are always trying to improve our products, and from the very first day of any product, we collect ideas and suggestion on how to improve it. So yes, we are tossing ideas around of how a new MO-RA version could be improved, and yes, there will one day be a new improved MO-RA. But we are still in the "collect ideas" phase for this. So, if you have any suggestion, let me hear them! If we develop an even rough ETA, I will keep you updated.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys, I ordered a 120 rad bracket for my Tube res. However, my rads are M4 threaded, and the 120 bracket only shipped with M3 screws. Is there an option for m4 screws? Or do I need to change rads altogether?


The supplied M3 screws are used to screw the bracket into the Basic mounting kit. Please see the attached picture.



The mounting holes through which you screw the bracket into the radiator are 3,2mm in diameter, so they fit a M3 screw. If you definitely need M4 screws to screw into your fans or rad, you'd need to drill these holes open.


----------



## odnilB

Hello Watercool-Jakob! Do you have an ETA on the rads? What about specs?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> There will be a new MO-RA revision one day. We are always trying to improve our products, and from the very first day of any product, we collect ideas and suggestion on how to improve it. So yes, we are tossing ideas around of how a new MO-RA version could be improved, and yes, there will one day be a new improved MO-RA. But we are still in the "collect ideas" phase for this. So, if you have any suggestion, let me hear them! If we develop an even rough ETA, I will keep you updated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The supplied M3 screws are used to screw the bracket into the Basic mounting kit. Please see the attached picture.
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting holes through which you screw the bracket into the radiator are 3,2mm in diameter, so they fit a M3 screw. If you definitely need M4 screws to screw into your fans or rad, you'd need to drill these holes open.


I am not sure how you improve on the mora3







darn thing is a lovable monster







. Honestly the main things I would like to see from a new model would be a more parallel setup to reduce the load on pumps (I know its not as simple as "more parallel"). Maybe a bit more room between the fans and the fins to reduce dead zones. Oh this is one, an optional fan controler.... hear me out here in every build I have done with the mora3 it had been located a fair distance from the pc so I have always had to have a secondary psu and controller for it so that I did not have a crazy long molex cable from the pc to the radiator so the option of having a built in controller/dc converter would be a buy for me.
Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *odnilB*
> 
> Hello Watercool-Jakob! Do you have an ETA on the rads? What about specs?
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by Bart View Post
> 
> Heatkiller radiators? Nice!
> Yup smile.gif We are designing a full lineup. 120mm and 140mm, slim / medium / thick, single dual triple, maybe even quadrupple 120s. A lot of products that need to be synchronized, tested, reviewed, redesigned, tested again... And all that while this enormous Threadripper block kept making trouble biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

It's already been ask before. Once they get past the threadripper blocks they will have a better idea of pipeline


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> There will be a new MO-RA revision one day. We are always trying to improve our products, and from the very first day of any product, we collect ideas and suggestion on how to improve it. So yes, we are tossing ideas around of how a new MO-RA version could be improved, and yes, there will one day be a new improved MO-RA. But we are still in the "collect ideas" phase for this. So, if you have any suggestion, let me hear them! If we develop an even rough ETA, I will keep you updated.


Give me a few days.


----------



## Memmento Mori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Aw, thank you, that is so sweet of you! I really appreciate it, and it'll actually help me! I was so busy that I completely forgot to tell you, but I finally got... erm, kinda promoted. Remember how I told you that I'm working only part-time for Watercool? NO MORE! I started to work here full time! No more double shifts! No more crappy daytime job! Only Watercool - Goodness for me!!!
> So, in all seriousness, having proof to show my Boss that my work is valuable for the company does help. So - thank you


Little bit late but Congratulation









As already told here by others, for us customers, it is important to have support. And you do it in the right way "we are here for you" not the opposite way "if you need something find us" which is most common.....









Keep on the good job









MM


----------



## GreedyMuffin

I have a MO-RA3 420 LT and I love it. I don't know what could be improved on this? The flow perhaps..? My D5 is doing a great job on my setup. Would a dual pump setup decrease the temperatures? I went from XTX360 + XT240 to a MO-RA3 + XT240 and my GPU temps dropped from the mid 50s to 30-33'C..

I am about to pull the trigger on a used CPU block for a second build, and wondering if Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro (Copper/Anthracite) would be better than my current Supremacy EVO?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Guys,
I got two announcements for you today:

We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.



Second, WATERCOOL is hiring! We are looking for an experienced CAD/CAM developer to help with design and construction of new blocks and products. Find all info in the job ad. Yes, that means that if we find someone, we'll probably support more custom PCB GPUs







So go go spread the word and find us some new staff


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Guys,
> I got two announcements for you today:
> 
> We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.


Can be be connected to an addressable rgd or aura header such as found in the maximus x mobo


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Guys,
> I got two announcements for you today:
> 
> We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.
> 
> 
> 
> Second, WATERCOOL is hiring! We are looking for an experienced CAD/CAM developer to help with design and construction of new blocks and products. Find all info in the job ad. Yes, that means that if we find someone, we'll probably support more custom PCB GPUs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So go go spread the word and find us some new staff


Will it work on the GTX 1080 TI also ?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Can be be connected to an addressable rgd or aura header such as found in the maximus x mobo


There your basic RGB 5050 LED strip with female RGB connector. They will work with most RGB controllers & Motherboard headers.

From the product description:
Quote:


> This strip comes with a standardized 4Pin RGB connector that is powered directly from a mainboard's RGB LED header. This strip is compatible with RGB LED by ASRock, AURA by ASUS, AORUS RGB FUSION by GIGABYTE and MYSTIC LIGHT by MSI. It is also compatible with many third-party RGB controllers. The cable is 40cm in lenght and sleeved with black paracord.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Will it work on the GTX 1080 TI also ?


Yes, as long as you have one of the LED enabled blocks. The blocks with acrylic windows, the solid versions are not LED enabled for obvious reasons.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Guys,
> I got two announcements for you today:
> 
> We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.


Nice to see RGB strip added, Any chance be adding UV to tube series in the future?


----------



## Phobicsq

For whatever reason the led for the gpu blocks doesn't really illuminate all that well even having the led on maximum brightness from the nvidia led controller. But the RGB light strips are cool, wish these were out before I put my led strips in.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> There your basic RGB 5050 LED strip with female RGB connector. They will work with most RGB controllers & Motherboard headers.
> 
> From the product description:
> 
> Yes, as long as you have one of the LED enabled blocks. The blocks with acrylic windows, the solid versions are not LED enabled for obvious reasons.


Thanks for answering those









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Nice to see RGB strip added, Any chance be adding UV to tube series in the future?


Currently not planned.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> For whatever reason the led for the gpu blocks doesn't really illuminate all that well even having the led on maximum brightness from the nvidia led controller. But the RGB light strips are cool, wish these were out before I put my led strips in.


Hm. sounds weird still. Are you sure that you installed the strip in the right orientation?

As you can see in this sketch, the strip is supposed to lay on its side, the LEDs facing toward the nickel part of the block.


----------



## SavantStrike

So as it turns out, the RX Vega block announcement did hold me over for the TR4 after all. I just pulled the trigger on a pair of reference Vega 64 cards at a price that I couldn't refuse. The watercool blocks for Vega are gorgeous and are less expensive than some of their competitors' products (which aren't nearly as attractive).

Edit:
@Watercool-Jakob or others who have handled these blocks, are they compatible with the stock backplate?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> So as it turns out, the RX Vega block announcement did hold me over for the TR4 after all. I just pulled the trigger on a pair of reference Vega 64 cards at a price that I couldn't refuse. The watercool blocks for Vega are gorgeous and are less expensive than some of their competitors' products (which aren't nearly as attractive).
> 
> Edit:
> @Watercool-Jakob or others who have handled these blocks, are they compatible with the stock backplate?


Yes, HEATKILLER for RX Vega blocks are compatible with the stock backplate.


----------



## chibi

Thanks for answering my question Jakob. Would you be able to advise the length of the following diagram as well?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yes, HEATKILLER for RX Vega blocks are compatible with the stock backplate.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Yes, HEATKILLER for RX Vega blocks are compatible with the stock backplate.


I found that in the description now







.

These blocks are gosh darn attractive. I'm not sure how I'll sleep at night knowing they are installed and I'm not looking at them (because I'm asleep), but I guess I'll find a way to manage.


----------



## fx3861

Wish they make blocks for custom cards also, but knowing they short of manpower, they dont compromise performance over sales is good enough for me. Hopefully there be one in the near future


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Wish they make blocks for custom cards also, but knowing they short of manpower, they dont compromise performance over sales is good enough for me. Hopefully there be one in the near future


I think the other part is if they make one or two, how do you choose out of the six or seven different ones? No matter which ones you choose, fans of the other ones will clamour for theirs to be made too. If they made MSI and Asus blocks, then there would be a lot of questions asking why there wasn't an EVGA FTW and/or Classified block, or Aorus/Giganyte, and that's not including how sooooooooo many companies with their custom designs tend to change the parts and/or layouts a few months later without telling anyone (EVGA is really bad about this), and sometimes the change is a drastic one making all the time you spent designing the block in the first place feel wasted, and causing more headaches for customers.

Then there's things like do you water cool the memory VRM to retain that full coverage terminology, or do you believe the manufacturer when they say it will be cool enough (this is a comment referencing EKWB and their block for the 780 Classified - anyone who pushed the memory wound up dremelling copper heat sinks to fit and then strapping a fan right over top of it to keep it cool (and usually has them held on with elastic bands if it was a benching rig)


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think the other part is if they make one or two, how do you choose out of the six or seven different ones? No matter which ones you choose, fans of the other ones will clamour for theirs to be made too. If they made MSI and Asus blocks, then there would be a lot of questions asking why there wasn't an EVGA FTW and/or Classified block, or Aorus/Giganyte, and that's not including how sooooooooo many companies with their custom designs tend to change the parts and/or layouts a few months later without telling anyone (EVGA is really bad about this), and sometimes the change is a drastic one making all the time you spent designing the block in the first place feel wasted, and causing more headaches for customers.
> 
> Then there's things like do you water cool the memory VRM to retain that full coverage terminology, or do you believe the manufacturer when they say it will be cool enough (this is a comment referencing EKWB and their block for the 780 Classified - anyone who pushed the memory wound up dremelling copper heat sinks to fit and then strapping a fan right over top of it to keep it cool (and usually has them held on with elastic bands if it was a benching rig)


Well, considering how overbuilt VRMs are on current 3rd party cards (FTW3, Strix, GamingX, etc) and how much lower power consumption is (vs Fermi/Kepler) I don't think VRM cooling is much of an issue, as long as there is some.

If I was Watercool, I'd come to some type of arrangement with EVGA and/or Asus. EVGA leads GPU sales in the US, Asus rest of the world. If I had to do one, I would go with EVGA just because their RMA process is more water cooling friendly vs other brands (no stickers, slap cooler on with TIM and your are good). Then only do the FTW3 and Strix. If this is announced months ahead of time, and Watercool's arrangement stipulates they will get CAD data X days before launch then I guess it would work. If that isn't possible, stick to reference. AIB cards rarely offer any extra performance nowadays anyway.

One improvement I would like to see is a backplate with more active cooling. Doesn't have to be like Aquacomputer with the heat pipe, but simply a plate that makes greater contact with the PCB (GPU die area and VRMs away from the chokes). Maybe this doesn't do much, but it seems like a logical area of improvement.


----------



## Phobicsq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for answering those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently not planned.
> Hm. sounds weird still. Are you sure that you installed the strip in the right orientation?
> 
> As you can see in this sketch, the strip is supposed to lay on its side, the LEDs facing toward the nickel part of the block.




I think it is installed properly as shown from the photo, the light is concentrated on the bottom half of the right corner of the block on the side. Very little is coming across the window and nickel of the blocks front.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Well, considering how overbuilt VRMs are on current 3rd party cards (FTW3, Strix, GamingX, etc) and how much lower power consumption is (vs Fermi/Kepler) I don't think VRM cooling is much of an issue, as long as there is some.
> 
> If I was Watercool, I'd come to some type of arrangement with EVGA and/or Asus. EVGA leads GPU sales in the US, Asus rest of the world. If I had to do one, I would go with EVGA just because their RMA process is more water cooling friendly vs other brands (no stickers, slap cooler on with TIM and your are good). Then only do the FTW3 and Strix. If this is announced months ahead of time, and Watercool's arrangement stipulates they will get CAD data X days before launch then I guess it would work. If that isn't possible, stick to reference. AIB cards rarely offer any extra performance nowadays anyway.
> 
> One improvement I would like to see is a backplate with more active cooling. Doesn't have to be like Aquacomputer with the heat pipe, but simply a plate that makes greater contact with the PCB (GPU die area and VRMs away from the chokes). Maybe this doesn't do much, but it seems like a logical area of improvement.


Do note I mentioned *memory* VRMs, which are something that still isn't really overbuilt in this day and age, and they have a much higher tendency of getting warm, even with "simple" loads like BOINC gpu projects or [email protected] That particular card EVGA had said would be perfectly fine being left bare, but the cards throttled memory pretty bad if active cooling wasn't focused onto them.. And this problem persisted when that company recycled the block for the 980 Classified series. Anything over a light load would run into problems with cooling of the memory VRMs - benching it wouldn't take long, but even ten minutes of gaming could affect things depending on how your case was set up.

Being a bencher (and a gamer) seeing companies take shortcuts like that makes one pause. Core and the main VRMs were nice and cool, but leaving memory VRMs uncooled as a cost cutting measure and having them get rather toasty doesn't leave the best of impressions. This is why I prefer the approach Watercool has, which is to make fewer blocks but ensure everything is properly cooled, and has the best looks on the block to boot!

As for partnering with EVGA, they have a bad habit of changing designs of the PCB several times during its lifespan, and a good portion of the time these are silent changes, where they seem to not acknowledge having done such until there's a decent amount of people being vocal about it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Thanks for answering my question Jakob. Would you be able to advise the length of the following diagram as well?


All measurements are specified in our product descriptions. In this case, it's 118mm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I think the other part is if they make one or two, how do you choose out of the six or seven different ones? No matter which ones you choose, fans of the other ones will clamour for theirs to be made too. If they made MSI and Asus blocks, then there would be a lot of questions asking why there wasn't an EVGA FTW and/or Classified block, or Aorus/Giganyte, and that's not including how sooooooooo many companies with their custom designs tend to change the parts and/or layouts a few months later without telling anyone (EVGA is really bad about this), and sometimes the change is a drastic one making all the time you spent designing the block in the first place feel wasted, and causing more headaches for customers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> If I was Watercool, I'd come to some type of arrangement with EVGA and/or Asus. EVGA leads GPU sales in the US, Asus rest of the world. If I had to do one, I would go with EVGA just because their RMA process is more water cooling friendly vs other brands (no stickers, slap cooler on with TIM and your are good). Then only do the FTW3 and Strix. If this is announced months ahead of time, and Watercool's arrangement stipulates they will get CAD data X days before launch then I guess it would work. If that isn't possible, stick to reference. AIB cards rarely offer any extra performance nowadays anyway.


We'd LOVE to do it this way. We actually did and do try to get better communications with these companies. But it's pretty complicated: they are probably scared of industrial spying, and are very reluctant to hand out any data concerning their products. Plus, WATERCOOL is a rather small player compared to their businesses, so they don't see any benefit for them in deals like this. Maybe we will make it possible one day







Quote:


> One improvement I would like to see is a backplate with more active cooling. Doesn't have to be like Aquacomputer with the heat pipe, but simply a plate that makes greater contact with the PCB (GPU die area and VRMs away from the chokes). Maybe this doesn't do much, but it seems like a logical area of improvement.


Thanks for the input! Noted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phobicsq*
> 
> I think it is installed properly as shown from the photo, the light is concentrated on the bottom half of the right corner of the block on the side. Very little is coming across the window and nickel of the blocks front.


Installation looks correct. Could you send me a shot of the illuminated block?


----------



## tiefox

Just orderer my heatkiller cpu block and gpu block and reservoir!







 excited...should get here later this week...


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We'd LOVE to do it this way. We actually did and do try to get better communications with these companies. But it's pretty complicated: they are probably scared of industrial spying, and are very reluctant to hand out any data concerning their products. Plus, WATERCOOL is a rather small player compared to their businesses, so they don't see any benefit for them in deals like this. Maybe we will make it possible one day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input! Noted.


NP. Honestly, I'm pretty much over AIB cards for water cooling at this point (as I would think most "enthusiasts" are as well). The cost premium and wait time for a block is just not worth it. This would only change if Nvidia start really cheaping out on their reference component suppliers.

I think the main area would be the 1. memory VRM 2. GPU die/package 3. Memory modules. GDDR5X memory VRMs get pretty hot (I assume GDDR#X will continue this)), Pascal is very temp sensitive so even a 1-2c core temp improvement is welcome, memory modules are probably less important but hell why not.


----------



## The L33t

@Watercool-Jakob

How about some real pictures of the TR block now that you have the Final (copper at least) in stock?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> How about some real pictures of the TR block now that you have the Final (copper at least) in stock?


We have a photographer come in and take some shots of the blocks that do them justice. Our own photography skills are... well, we want to wait till the good pics are available


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We have a photographer come in and take some shots of the blocks that do them justice. Our own photography skills are... well, we want to wait till the good pics are available


No such thing as bad pics of sexy blocks man.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> No such thing as bad pics of sexy blocks man.


This. You could take the pics on a camera from the late 90's and it would still look amazing.


----------



## hebrewbacon

Patiently waiting for mine. Just ordered some PETG yesterday as I need to redo my runs for this block. Should have a good side by side shot of the heatkiller block vs EK once I get it.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> This. You could take the pics on a camera from the late 90's and it would still look amazing.


Problem is those ones require developing, and then deciding if you want to push the dev or not... Oh, and don't forget that there's the choices of do you go with Portra 800, Ektachrome, Ektar, Velvia, Superia, something from Ilford, CineStill, etc etc.

.. Oh, you meant digital? Those weren't all that common place (at least affordable ones) until the early 2000's







1990's were still all about 35mm film, because digital cameras at the time were just way too expensive and/or bulky. Canon didn't get into the pro DSLR market until 2001 with their EOS-1D, Nikon was 1999 with their D1 (although was still a film centric company until about 2004), and if we look at consumer oriented devices Canon was 2003 (Digital Rebel in North America, 300D in most other areas), Fuji was 2000 (FinePix S1 Pro), and we didn't get IBIS (in body image stabilization) until 2004 from the Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D (a feature that a lot of digital cameras still lack, with mainly Olympus, Panasonic, and Sony leading the way with such, with some of them able to get really good stabilization going to compensate for shaky hands, wind, etc)

The other thing too is that you can very much so take poor photographs with a high end camera, as every type of photography has a specific skill set you need to develop (street photography requires blending in without coming across as suspicious, a bit of patience, a huuuuuge eye for the scene and its possibilities, an eye for people, an eye for discretion, zone focusing techniques, and a bunch more... Landscape photography requires the patience of a deity for that scene that may or may not happen, a good tripod, a decent tent and waterproof clothing/footwear, an eye for specific colours, etc).

It isn't the camera that makes the image captured be gorgeous - it's the person behind that body and lens that composed it, and used their skills to produce a lovely picture.

Take for example the "black Chrome" finish that's quite popular on a lot of water cooling fittings. In some light, it's barely darker than regular chrome (and looks terrible in my eyes, but I don't like chrome), but change it a bit and hey look, it's this gorgeous Chrome that's almost a shiny black. Use harsh/direct lighting and it comes out differently than it would with soft lighting. Don't use enough lighting, and you get additional noise in the picture. You get the idea









Watercool comes across as a company that is insanely passionate about doing the very best they can, and I suspect that's why they go "we make epic hardware, and so we hire a product photographer to make that absolute gorgeous beauty of our designs stand out strong and true" ... Or something to that effect. ^_^


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> The other thing too is that you can very much so take poor photographs with a high end camera, as every type of photography has a specific skill set you need to develop (street photography requires blending in without coming across as suspicious, a bit of patience, a huuuuuge eye for the scene and its possibilities, an eye for people, an eye for discretion, zone focusing techniques, and a bunch more... Landscape photography requires the patience of a deity for that scene that may or may not happen, a good tripod, a decent tent and waterproof clothing/footwear, an eye for specific colours, etc).


The kicker is that contrary to what many believe, an inexperienced photographer often get a lot better pictures using cheaper cameras. The simple reason being that cheaper DSLRs have more beginner friendly profiles that help set things up for someone not knowing what they are doing. And if we look at even cheaper cameras like smart-phones (Only focusing on the camera bit, as the devices often are expensive) we have software that tries to compensate and help you get the picture as good as possible with zero experience. Meaning that if you give a 10k $ camera to a novice you would most likely see better pictures from a 400$ one. It's weird, but it's a reality that most novice photographers don't think of.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The kicker is that contrary to what many believe, an inexperienced photographer often get a lot better pictures using cheaper cameras. The simple reason being that cheaper DSLRs have more beginner friendly profiles that help set things up for someone not knowing what they are doing. And if we look at even cheaper cameras like smart-phones (Only focusing on the camera bit, as the devices often are expensive) we have software that tries to compensate and help you get the picture as good as possible with zero experience. Meaning that if you give a 10k $ camera to a novice you would most likely see better pictures from a 400$ one. It's weird, but it's a reality that most novice photographers don't think of.


True enough. Even I wouldn't want a $10k camera. $10k in lenses on the other hand... Oh, wait, most of my wishlist is right around $5k CAD total: (Olympus 17mm f1.2 ($1,500 CAD), Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro ($630 CAD), Olympus 45mm f1.2 ($1,500 CAD), and probably the Olympus 8mm f1.8 fisheye ($1,250 CAD, usually on sale for $1,150 CAD), which with GST and the sale pricing puts it at $5,018 CAD with GST ^_^;;;

Even with the assists, while they'll help get the correct settings (or at least close enough), framing, composition, lighting, and what to focus on in the capturing process still rely rather heavily upon the photographer ^_^ Auto modes have gotten a LOT better over the years, which is nice (for those who use full auto, anyways)


----------



## Rainmaker91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> True enough. Even I wouldn't want a $10k camera. $10k in lenses on the other hand... Oh, wait, most of my wishlist is right around $5k CAD total: (Olympus 17mm f1.2 ($1,500 CAD), Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro ($630 CAD), Olympus 45mm f1.2 ($1,500 CAD), and probably the Olympus 8mm f1.8 fisheye ($1,250 CAD, usually on sale for $1,150 CAD), which with GST and the sale pricing puts it at $5,018 CAD with GST ^_^;;;
> 
> Even with the assists, while they'll help get the correct settings (or at least close enough), framing, composition, lighting, and what to focus on in the capturing process still rely rather heavily upon the photographer ^_^ Auto modes have gotten a LOT better over the years, which is nice (for those who use full auto, anyways)


Of course, a good photographer is priceless when you need a specific shot. And a good photographer can get a terrific shot with any camera as long as they are used to using it (ok, maybe not terrific, but at the very least a good shot). The only 10k $ cameras I can think of from the top of my head is Leica, but they always seemed a bit overpriced to me.Heck I'm still at a 10 year old entry DSLR, and for good reason. I just don't need any more, though I have been looking at upgrading from my ageing Pentax K-m to a more modern (and slightly more expensive) Pentax K-3 II. Waht is really making my want this though is that 10 Mega-pixels is starting to show it's age on a 4k monitor, not to mention these older cameras struggle with higher ISO values which is a chore in low light environments. Still, after having tried my fair share of more high end cameras I find that I'm personally more pleased with working with a more entry level product. It's just easier for every day use for someone who may be a "hobby" photographer at the best days and a cellphone pleb on most days.


----------



## snef

im far away to be pro photographer but i understand one thing, lights is the key

light are 70% of the photography, 29% is the guy behind the camera and the last 1% is the equipment
and for 29% for the guy is because he understand how light is applied to the thing he want to photograph

if you do a search on web, you will see a lot of epic photos with iphone 4, any smartphone or any cheap camera

and developing is a i very important steps in the final result, and this is still true with current digital camera


----------



## ruffhi

Just picked up a 1070 (EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING) after chatting to the EVGA at NewEgg (who said the card had a reference PCB) ... and it does! My HeakKiller GPU block and backplate fit ... yay.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> ... every type of photography has a specific skill set you need to develop [...]
> 
> It isn't the camera that makes the image captured be gorgeous - it's the person behind that body and lens that composed it, and used their skills to produce a lovely picture.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> im far away to be pro photographer but i understand one thing, lights is the key
> 
> light are 70% of the photography, 29% is the guy behind the camera and the last 1% is the equipment
> and for 29% for the guy is because he understand how light is applied to the thing he want to photograph
> 
> if you do a search on web, you will see a lot of epic photos with iphone 4, any smartphone or any cheap camera
> 
> and developing is a i very important steps in the final result, and this is still true with current digital camera


You guys are absolutely right, and while being right, still overlook the most important point: we do not have the skills







So, yes, photography can be learned. But it takes time! And I guess, you all realized by now that our schedules are constantly crammed. So, we can either design blocks/ put them online/ ship them/ keep you updated about the existence of those blocks - or take pics of them







So we decided to not learn everything ourselves, but instead pay professionals to do their job - even more so since they do it way better than we could









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just picked up a 1070 (EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING) after chatting to the EVGA at NewEgg (who said the card had a reference PCB) ... and it does! My HeakKiller GPU block and backplate fit ... yay.


Glad to hear that it finally worked out for you! Plus, you made a small upgrade from 1060 to 1070, so congratz


----------



## potato42

I love the photography talk!









I'm about to place my order for the new threadripper block in nickel, and a matching vega 64 block. I'll be happy to post up pics when they arrive! Jakob, could you give me an idea how long I might expect to wait till they arrive in the USA? I know the nickel block will not be available until the 24th, but maybe a week or so after that?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Indeed, I do enjoy reading everyone's views on photography.

I've been doing photography/videography that gets me paid for 9 years now.

To say I've paid off my Canon Rebel with the shots that's come from it, would be an understatement.

I have taken photos in almost every environment and honestly, studio settings shooting computers or computer parts aren't challenging. You have full control of your entire environment. If you consider yourself a novice at it and would like to get better, place yourself in a setting where most people wouldn't be taking photos because at first glance would seem like an ill planned photography session.

You'll end up finding your very own aesthetic in no time, and your shots will end up looking more and more unique and tailored to how you view the world.

An example of one of my aesthetics is I use a Sigma 30mm f1.4 on my Canon Rebel. With the APS-C, it brings focal length to 48mm - which is almost exactly the FOV that humans perceive when focusing on a single object. So I walk around in a way that if I see an angle that can capture the essence of what I'm trying to get, all I have to do is then hold my camera up to my eye, and it sees it exactly how I saw it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> I love the photography talk!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to place my order for the new threadripper block in nickel, and a matching vega 64 block. I'll be happy to post up pics when they arrive! Jakob, could you give me an idea how long I might expect to wait till they arrive in the USA? I know the nickel block will not be available until the 24th, but maybe a week or so after that?


Expect rather more. We are getting really a lot of pre-orders. We had some trouble producing and shipping all the copper blocks in time, and a few are still not out of the door, unfortunately. So, as I said previously, the initial kick-off of a new product always comes with some bumps and readjustments, so rather expect more than one week.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Expect rather more. We are getting really a lot of pre-orders. We had some trouble producing and shipping all the copper blocks in time, and a few are still not out of the door, unfortunately. So, as I said previously, the initial kick-off of a new product always comes with some bumps and readjustments, so rather expect more than one week.


I hope you guys eventually get the market mindshare of EK. As of right now EK isn't worth it's mindshare/market share status. If you guys could match them in time to market, you would outsell them imo over time.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Expect rather more. We are getting really a lot of pre-orders. We had some trouble producing and shipping all the copper blocks in time, and a few are still not out of the door, unfortunately. So, as I said previously, the initial kick-off of a new product always comes with some bumps and readjustments, so rather expect more than one week.


Glad to see there is a strong demand for the block







Fingers crossed that copper stock has not impacted the nickel availability/time line


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You guys are absolutely right, and while being right, still overlook the most important point: we do not have the skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, yes, photography can be learned. But it takes time! And I guess, you all realized by now that our schedules are constantly crammed. So, we can either design blocks/ put them online/ ship them/ keep you updated about the existence of those blocks - or take pics of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So we decided to not learn everything ourselves, but instead pay professionals to do their job - even more so since they do it way better than we could
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear that it finally worked out for you! Plus, you made a small upgrade from 1060 to 1070, so congratz


Quite true - I love it when companies focus on what they're passionate about, and where their skills are. It's why I'm absolutely in love the blocks you guys put out... High performance, and drop dead sexy. Oh, and unlike other companies who've gone full nickel plating Watercool still offers full on copper alongside all the other drop dead sexy options ^_^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Indeed, I do enjoy reading everyone's views on photography.
> 
> I've been doing photography/videography that gets me paid for 9 years now.
> 
> To say I've paid off my Canon Rebel with the shots that's come from it, would be an understatement.
> 
> I have taken photos in almost every environment and honestly, studio settings shooting computers or computer parts aren't challenging. You have full control of your entire environment. If you consider yourself a novice at it and would like to get better, place yourself in a setting where most people wouldn't be taking photos because at first glance would seem like an ill planned photography session.
> 
> You'll end up finding your very own aesthetic in no time, and your shots will end up looking more and more unique and tailored to how you view the world.
> 
> An example of one of my aesthetics is I use a Sigma 30mm f1.4 on my Canon Rebel. With the APS-C, it brings focal length to 48mm - which is almost exactly the FOV that humans perceive when focusing on a single object. So I walk around in a way that if I see an angle that can capture the essence of what I'm trying to get, all I have to do is then hold my camera up to my eye, and it sees it exactly how I saw it.


A nifty fifty (equivalent) is something I wouldn't mind getting my hands on at some point, but I suspect my first prime (for my G85) will be a 32-35mm equivalent (either Sigma 16mm f1.4 or Olympus 17mm f1.2 shortly after they're released) simply because it's what I'm used to working with, and prefer things slightly wider (I "blame" my old point and shoot film cameras - 35mm camera had a 28mm f4.5 on it, and my 110 had a 38mm plastic lens with an unknown f-stop). I love the reach it has, but I generally tend to prefer the slightly wider angle, even if it means having to get closer to achieve what I want. Odds are I'll get more practice with the 50mm focal length soon enough because I'm picking up a film SLR of some description in the soon-ish timeframe, and a LOT of them are paired with 50mm f1.2/f1.4/f1.8 or 55mm f1.8/f1.9/f2.2 lenses, and once I gain more practice with 50mm I suspect I'll probably want the Olympus f1.2 trinity of primes (17mm (34/35mm equivalent), 25mm (50mm equivalent), and 45mm (90mm equivalent)).


----------



## tiefox

I just received my watercool order yesterday.. I'm VERY impressed by the quality of the parts!! It is really awesome!

Now just need to wait for 3 more weeks for my rads to be able to execute my build.


----------



## snef

bahhhhh don't pay for photo, send me all thing you need photo and I will take all you need


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> bahhhhh don't pay for photo, send me all thing you need photo and I will take all you need


That's a good idea. Jakob what about a photo contest? Watercool could sponsor a community photo contest and award prizes to the winner(s). I'd be in for sure!


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Expect rather more. We are getting really a lot of pre-orders. We had some trouble producing and shipping all the copper blocks in time, and a few are still not out of the door, unfortunately. So, as I said previously, the initial kick-off of a new product always comes with some bumps and readjustments, so rather expect more than one week.


I understand. Could you tell me then, if I ordered the copper block instead, how much sooner would I be likely to get it?


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> That's a good idea. Jakob what about a photo contest? Watercool could sponsor a community photo contest and award prizes to the winner(s). I'd be in for sure!


Best pictures of Heatkiller Waterblock I saw was the guy that is doing a Bladerunner theme.

edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1630613/sponsored-tears-in-rain-blade-runner-inspired-computer-art-feat-parvum-systems/200_50#post_26349874


----------



## WhiteWulfe

James Walt I'd say is rather well known for taking excellent product and rig shots! Every rig is always such a lovely looking one!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> That's a good idea. Jakob what about a photo contest? Watercool could sponsor a community photo contest and award prizes to the winner(s). I'd be in for sure!


I'm in








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Best pictures of Heatkiller Waterblock I saw was the guy that is doing a Bladerunner theme.
> 
> edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1630613/sponsored-tears-in-rain-blade-runner-inspired-computer-art-feat-parvum-systems/200_50#post_26349874


They're great, to be sure. I'm sure he has a history for stock photography, though his white balances are uneven slightly.

For example, here are some of my shots, you can consider them my submissions lol


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I'm in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're great, to be sure. I'm sure he has a history for stock photography, though his white balances are uneven slightly.
> 
> For example, here are some of my shots, you can consider them my submissions lol


I have some noob question, what is your lighting setup? Flash or constant light?


----------



## iamjanco

_Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography._

- George Eastman


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I have some noob question, what is your lighting setup? Flash or constant light?


No worries!

The GPU block used a strobe, and the Tube and CPU block used soft boxes


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> _Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography._
> 
> - George Eastman


But, but.... Niiiiight photography, underground photography, low light stuff, etc!







I'm just being silly. Wally at a local store (his store, lol) was having a bit of fun with me being all "ooooooooooooooh" at some of the cameras he has. Gotta figure out how I'm going to sneak $225 CAD or so out of my next week's paycheque budget, because maaaaaaan I want two or three of the cameras he has. Sure, I could get them online for cheaper, but there's something to be said for not only getting to give them a whirl in the store, but also what repairs have been done to them, an epic serial number (it has three 6's (almost in a row) and three 5's in a row), AAAAAND Wally has some rather interesting stories, especially the ones from the early and mid-40's (he's like 87 or 88 now, was 8 years old when Poland was invaded). Really awesome guy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I'm in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're great, to be sure. I'm sure he has a history for stock photography, though his white balances are uneven slightly.
> 
> For example, here are some of my shots, you can consider them my submissions lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Against that, I yield *laughs nervously* Then again, I know I'm an amateur that sometimes overthinks things (usually my worst shots), and occasionally listens to instincts (my favourites at the end of the day).... And street photography is the main thing I want to do, because I'm nuts..... Actually it's because I absolutely haaaaaaate taking pictures of people, but eerily enough the pictures I treasure the most involve people in some form >.>;;;;;


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> No worries!
> 
> The GPU block used a strobe, and the Tube and CPU block used soft boxes


Thanks! I'm only starting, but boy do I love taking pictures of computer parts haha. I don't really have the place, but I'm still debating what to buy to improve my lights. I'm thinking about a softbox over some flashes because it's better if I want to do videos.

also I want to buy a macro lens in the future (Tamron 90mm) and a zoom lens (sony 55-210).



http://imgur.com/k4b07


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> But, but.... Niiiiight photography, underground photography, low light stuff, etc!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just being silly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wally at a local store (his store, lol) was having a bit of fun with me being all "ooooooooooooooh" at some of the cameras he has. Gotta figure out how I'm going to sneak $225 CAD or so out of my next week's paycheque budget, because maaaaaaan I want two or three of the cameras he has. Sure, I could get them online for cheaper, but there's something to be said for not only getting to give them a whirl in the store, but also what repairs have been done to them, an epic serial number (it has three 6's (almost in a row) and three 5's in a row), AAAAAND Wally has some rather interesting stories, especially the ones from the early and mid-40's (he's like 87 or 88 now, was 8 years old when Poland was invaded). Really awesome guy.
> Against that, I yield *laughs nervously* Then again, I know I'm an amateur that sometimes overthinks things (usually my worst shots), and occasionally listens to instincts (my favourites at the end of the day).... And street photography is the main thing I want to do, because I'm nuts..... Actually it's because I absolutely haaaaaaate taking pictures of people, but eerily enough the pictures I treasure the most involve people in some form >.>;;;;;


Doesn't really matter, as light is light. The complete lack of it is something photographers typically don't take pictures of.







Scientists, maybe. Photographers, not so much.

If you want to get started learning more about *light and photography*, there's plenty of information out there of course. For cheap, you can even get some relatively inexpensive lighting setups that will help you along the way, especially some of the cheaper continuous lighting kits, with fluorescents being some of the cheapest.

Check out what's offered at places like *B&H* and/or *Henry's*, the latter geared toward those north of the St. Lawrence.

Once you get done looking at what I've mentioned thus far, have a look at *David Hobby's Strobist site*. It comes highly recommended.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> I'm thinking about a softbox over some flashes because it's better if I want to do videos.


Check out what I said above. If you want to (also) shoot indoor video where supplemental lighting is needed, a continuous lighting kit might be the optimal approach.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> _Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography._
> 
> - George Eastman


Despite working at a company with his name on the side I forget that he was an avid photographer.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Despite working at a company with his name on the side I forget that he was an avid photographer.


Especially if you've been around long enough to know what Dektol and C41 are without Googling them. They're both still available in some flavor or another, mind you.


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Expect rather more. We are getting really a lot of pre-orders. We had some trouble producing and shipping all the copper blocks in time, and a few are still not out of the door, unfortunately. So, as I said previously, the initial kick-off of a new product always comes with some bumps and readjustments, so rather expect more than one week.


I'm hoping I get the block before the 8th of Dec as I will be travelling for 3 weeks and that block would just sit on my porch for 3 weeks


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Especially if you've been around long enough to know what Dektol and C41 are without Googling them. They're both still available in some flavor or another, mind you.


[ot]While my dad would probably know Kodak divested the chemical manufacturing business in the early 90's. It is now known as "Eastman chemical company" but most often just referred to as Eastman. We make some cool stuff like BPA free plastics etc, though there are some legacy lines that still make some of the stuff that goes into film processing. [/ot]

Still holding out hope that the nickel blocks are on schedule.


----------



## Wally West

Does anyone know if the o-ring on the DDC pump that fit on the heatkiller tube ddc is from watercool or laing?

will this fit?
https://dazmode.com/store/product/laing-ddc-oring-50mm-blue/


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Doesn't really matter, as light is light. The complete lack of it is something photographers typically don't take pictures of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scientists, maybe. Photographers, not so much.
> 
> If you want to get started learning more about *light and photography*, there's plenty of information out there of course. For cheap, you can even get some relatively inexpensive lighting setups that will help you along the way, especially some of the cheaper continuous lighting kits, with fluorescents being some of the cheapest.
> 
> Check out what's offered at places like *B&H* and/or *Henry's*, the latter geared toward those north of the St. Lawrence.
> 
> Once you get done looking at what I've mentioned thus far, have a look at *David Hobby's Strobist site*. It comes highly recommended.
> Check out what I said above. If you want to (also) shoot indoor video where supplemental lighting is needed, a continuous lighting kit might be the optimal approach.


There's plenty of light at night, all depends on how you look at things. You'd be amazed just how bright it can be at 02:00 outside, especially in the winter with a foot of snow (or more) covering things. Light pollution in a city becomes a tool to draw attention to various things, and can be used rather creatively ^_^

I said night, not pitch black. Also, by underground, that's what many refer to things like trams, C-Trains (Calgary, Alberta), the Skytrain (Greater Vancouver Area/Region), the LRT (Edmonton, Alberta), the Underground (London, UK), "look at how awesome our engineers are, crafting this through a SWAMP!" (Amsterdam Netherlands - I don't know it's actual name, but a lot of the newer tunnels went through swamps and/or marshland) and whatever Montreal calls their (I forgot its name), where there still is plenty of light and all sorts of interesting things to take pictures of, especially lifestyle/life/street photography, and of course trains.

As for light kits, packing two cameras, maybe a travel or compact tripod, and an extra lens or two (plus snacks and water) is more than enough for me, I'm not hauling several kilos of lighting equipment with me, especially since it would also require batteries to power (no 120V sockets in the middle of nowhere). I also wouldn't have anywhere to store it in my small place.

Glad you didn't mention LED lighting, that stuff is the bane of my existence as I'm light sensitive - very few of them use direct voltage control and instead use PWM control. I'm happy to see tech get there, but it's of little use to me since what I do doesn't require additional lighting.

As for the St Laurence River, most Canadians instead say "North of the 49th parallel" (or just "for Canadians") simply because using a river as a dividing point is only valid for those living in that area, and I'm three provinces over from it. It's like saying "we're around the North Saskatchewan River" to someone in Quebec, they'll look at you funny, doubly so because that river runs a long course through multiple provinces.

For portraiture and product photography, oh yeah, I can see the use of artificial lighting, and how it can help dial in exactly what one wants in short order.

We probably should re-focus on talking about the drop dead gorgeous Watercool products though, as photography isn't the main thing for this thread ^_^


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> There's plenty of light at night, all depends on how you look at things. You'd be amazed just how bright it can be at 02:00 outside, especially in the winter with a foot of snow (or more) covering things. Light pollution in a city becomes a tool to draw attention to various things, and can be used rather creatively ^_^
> 
> I said night, not pitch black. Also, by underground, that's what many refer to things like trams, C-Trains (Calgary, Alberta), the Skytrain (Greater Vancouver Area/Region), the LRT (Edmonton, Alberta), the Underground (London, UK), "look at how awesome our engineers are, crafting this through a SWAMP!" (Amsterdam Netherlands - I don't know it's actual name, but a lot of the newer tunnels went through swamps and/or marshland) and whatever Montreal calls their (I forgot its name), where there still is plenty of light and all sorts of interesting things to take pictures of, especially lifestyle/life/street photography, and of course trains.
> 
> As for light kits, packing two cameras, maybe a travel or compact tripod, and an extra lens or two (plus snacks and water) is more than enough for me, I'm not hauling several kilos of lighting equipment with me, especially since it would also require batteries to power (no 120V sockets in the middle of nowhere). I also wouldn't have anywhere to store it in my small place.
> 
> Glad you didn't mention LED lighting, that stuff is the bane of my existence as I'm light sensitive - very few of them use direct voltage control and instead use PWM control. I'm happy to see tech get there, but it's of little use to me since what I do doesn't require additional lighting.
> 
> *As for the St Laurence River, most Canadians instead say "North of the 49th parallel" (or just "for Canadians") simply because using a river as a dividing point is only valid for those living in that area, and I'm three provinces over from it. It's like saying "we're around the North Saskatchewan River" to someone in Quebec, they'll look at you funny, doubly so because that river runs a long course through multiple provinces.*
> 
> For portraiture and product photography, oh yeah, I can see the use of artificial lighting, and how it can help dial in exactly what one wants in short order.
> 
> We probably should re-focus on talking about the drop dead gorgeous Watercool products though, as photography isn't the main thing for this thread ^_^


Currently under the St-Laurent, but i'm also in Canada







(NB & NS)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Currently under the St-Laurent, but i'm also in Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (NB & NS)


Oooooh, gorgeous scenery out there. A coworker is taking a two week cross-Canadsa trip starting out there specifically because of how gorgeous it is.

Newfoundland will probably be the first Maritimes province I visit though, simply because of Targa, and my desire to participate in that event at some point. ^_^


----------



## iamjanco

Lol, I'm currently about 100 miles south of Montreal, in northern NY.

Agree about getting back on topic.


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Does anyone know if the o-ring on the DDC pump that fit on the heatkiller tube ddc is from watercool or laing?
> 
> will this fit?
> https://dazmode.com/store/product/laing-ddc-oring-50mm-blue/


For the DDC version you use the original o-ring from laing.

On the D5 you have to use the supplied o-ring from Watercool, not the original from laing or it will leak.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Does anyone know if the o-ring on the DDC pump that fit on the heatkiller tube ddc is from watercool or laing?
> 
> will this fit?
> https://dazmode.com/store/product/laing-ddc-oring-50mm-blue/


It might be better to ask @Watercool-Jakob

@L33tBastard
I don't mean to overstep you but it seems we posted at exactly the same time...lol


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> For the DDC version you use the original o-ring from laing.
> 
> On the D5 you have to use the supplied o-ring from Watercool, not the original from laing or it will leak.


thanks! I was disassembling my pump and it appears my cat found the o-ring and hide it somewhere.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Does anyone know if the o-ring on the DDC pump that fit on the heatkiller tube ddc is from watercool or laing?
> 
> will this fit?
> https://dazmode.com/store/product/laing-ddc-oring-50mm-blue/


According to the manual, the DDC version requires a 48x2.5mm o-ring. Double check the manual because there are a few o-rings . http://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_TUBE_A5m.pdf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainmaker91*
> 
> The kicker is that contrary to what many believe, an inexperienced photographer often get a lot better pictures using cheaper cameras.


I agree completely. Cheaper cameras tend to be more "forgiving", especially your typical point and shoot cameras as opposed to DSLR. I wish i could find the full resolution original instead of one resized and crushed by photobucket, then recompressed again to upload it here, but this was originally taken by myself in 2001 using a total potato camera, an Epson 1.3mp 750z. A friend liked it so much, he got it published in URB magazine that year along with an interview he did with the musician in the photo, Brian Transeau. (BT).


----------



## The L33t

Regarding the o´ring, this is a a quote from Jakob on this very same Thread;
Quote:


> First of all, yes, with the D5 versions, we provide an alternative gasket that HAS to be used to seal the pump in the res. With the DDC, however, you simply use the original gasket that comes with the pump.


Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/1150#post_26007322

But yeah, the original Laing o-ring for the DDC is 48x2.5 mm.


----------



## BakerMan1971

Having just fit an AM4 Heatkiller block and D5 Tube to a friend's M-ATX rig, I can certainly vouch for the quality, it has created a large sense of envy among my group of enthusiasts resulting, in many an upgrade plan involving Watercool products







keep it up. If I manage to get hold of any of the pics taken I will get them posted up


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> Regarding the o´ring, this is a a quote from Jakob on this very same Thread;
> Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/528648/official-heatkiller-club/1150#post_26007322
> 
> But yeah, the original Laing o-ring for the DDC is 48x2.5 mm.


thanks for the research!


----------



## ProRules




----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that an LCD display? If so what is it used for and what model of the Heatkiller is that?


----------



## khemist

It's not from Watercool, it's from Aquacomputer.


----------



## ProRules

Yeah like Khemist said, its from Aquacomputer.
The GPU is Heatkiller IV Pro Pascal.
The CPU is Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos next.
And the RAM is Bitspower galaxy.

I think the three look amazing together.
Heatkiller makes amazing GPU and CPU waterblocks.
Aquacomputer makes amazing cpu water blocks, GPU not so much, nothing can beat the heatkiller gpu block in my mind, even the new phanteks glacier can't beat the heatkiller


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*


And bitspower RAM. If he had an Asus Formula board he would have a part from each of the major companies... I do have to say they do look good together


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Any thoughts on making a dark nickel or anthracite GPU block top cover?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Always cool to see when someone decides to mix it up and go with different companies for their watercooling.

Sometimes it's tough to find different parts that have a similar flow (aesthetic wise) but when it does, it's great.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Phew, you guys been busy over this weekend







Nice, I like how this thread really became a community thing! Love to see it, and though I'm no photography nerd myself, I enjoyed your Off Topic









There were a few questions in between there that I'll try to answer nevertheless







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> I hope you guys eventually get the market mindshare of EK. As of right now EK isn't worth it's mindshare/market share status. If you guys could match them in time to market, you would outsell them imo over time.


You need to remember that EK is a really big company. There latest statement included a staff of over 90 people. We are NINE people. So, we take up the fight and try to increase our market share, sales, staff, and output of new products. But we are very aware that they have resources and contacts that we don't have. It's an uphill battle, but thanks to your loyal support, we love it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> I just received my watercool order yesterday.. I'm VERY impressed by the quality of the parts!! It is really awesome!
> 
> Now just need to wait for 3 more weeks for my rads to be able to execute my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Happy to hear that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> bahhhhh don't pay for photo, send me all thing you need photo and I will take all you need


I feel like I did just send out a big box of goodies your way a few days ago, you greedy kitten









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> That's a good idea. Jakob what about a photo contest? Watercool could sponsor a community photo contest and award prizes to the winner(s). I'd be in for sure!


Never thought about that! Sounds like a good idea, actually. I'll toss it around in the office, maybe we can set something up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> Does anyone know if the o-ring on the DDC pump that fit on the heatkiller tube ddc is from watercool or laing?
> 
> will this fit?
> https://dazmode.com/store/product/laing-ddc-oring-50mm-blue/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L33tBastard*
> 
> For the DDC version you use the original o-ring from laing.
> 
> On the D5 you have to use the supplied o-ring from Watercool, not the original from laing or it will leak.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> According to the manual, the DDC version requires a 48x2.5mm o-ring. Double check the manual because there are a few o-rings . http://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_TUBE_A5m.pdf


Those two answers are correct. To the best of our knowledge, the correct dimensions of the o-rings specified by Xylem/Lowara is 48x2.5 . If Daz is selling rings with 50mm and claims them to be suited for DDC pumps, I cannot make a statement about their compatibility. They might be, and given Daz's credibility, I'd expect them to be. Best ask him directly about it... Other than that: aquatuning offers those rings in the US, too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BakerMan1971*
> 
> Having just fit an AM4 Heatkiller block and D5 Tube to a friend's M-ATX rig, I can certainly vouch for the quality, it has created a large sense of envy among my group of enthusiasts resulting, in many an upgrade plan involving Watercool products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep it up. If I manage to get hold of any of the pics taken I will get them posted up


Love to hear that. And would love to get some pics from that rig!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Any thoughts on making a dark nickel or anthracite GPU block top cover?


It's actually quite a hassle to get colored finishes. It all depends on plating companies and which company can offer which chemicals to do which colors. So, you need to find a company that offers the right array of colors, and can do copper-nickel plating, and is careful enough to meet our quality standard. It's really complicated... So, in short: no, we won't do anthracite finishes in the near future, unfortunately...


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Are batch to batch colour variances also an issue with plating? I know they are with anodizing, as a few custom paintball companies I eventually want to buy gear from specifically warn about such when you go to buy.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Glad to see there is a strong demand for the block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fingers crossed that copper stock has not impacted the nickel availability/time line


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> I'm hoping I get the block before the 8th of Dec as I will be travelling for 3 weeks and that block would just sit on my porch for 3 weeks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> I understand. Could you tell me then, if I ordered the copper block instead, how much sooner would I be likely to get it?


Unfortunately, you guys had the right suspicion. We will not be able to deliver the blocks on 24th. We currently plan to ship them on ~1st Dec. But this is not fixed yet, unfortunately. This also depends on schedules at the plaling company and timeframes at the shipping companys between us and the plater, which also tend to get crowded shortly before X-mas... We sincerely apologize for the delay!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Are batch to batch colour variances also an issue with plating? I know they are with anodizing, as a few custom paintball companies I eventually want to buy gear from specifically warn about such when you go to buy.


That is correct. Technically speaking, only the nickel plating is "plating". The coloring on both the black front screens of the GPU blocks and the colored struts from the Tubes are anodized, not plated. And yes, there can be small differences from batch to batch, depending on the exact conditions of the chemicals at the company.


----------



## snef

made a little video how to sleeve a D5 pump

sure full of watercool stuff


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made a little video how to sleeve a D5 pump
> 
> sure full of watercool stuff


At times in the video some of what you were doing was hard to see or bit off screen. Never a close up look at what you were doing or even the finished product. Not sure you can call this a How to video.



I will add some D5 pumps use tape wiring instead of the normal PVC wiring. Which makes it nearly impossible to remove the cover for the pump.

When you do Sleeve it directly inside you lose the ability to tell what each wire is. a good alternative is just use adhesive heatshrink with the sleeving for those who have tape wiring.

---

This is personal preference:

It's also a good idea to wire the pump directly into the PSU instead of using the default "Molex" cable. I wire mine into a spare PCiE slot.


----------



## Jakerz

Nice Vid Snef! I did replace my Molex connector with an XT60 type connector and made a harness for all my fans and what not that just plugs into the PSU.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH56JQJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

Something like that wound up looking a little neater than the giant white Molex plug that was on my pump from the factory, lol.

Jake


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> At times in the video some of what you were doing was hard to see or bit off screen. Never a close up look at what you were doing or even the finished product. Not sure you can call this a How to video.
> 
> 
> 
> I will add some D5 pumps use tape wiring instead of the normal PVC wiring. Which makes it nearly impossible to remove the cover for the pump.
> 
> When you do Sleeve it directly inside you lose the ability to tell what each wire is. a good alternative is just use adhesive heatshrink with the sleeving for those who have tape wiring.
> .


call it or not a how to its your business,
but as i saw in your reply, its clear you fully understand what i show

for close up, im far away than a pro Youtuber but a builder, this video of not monetized and its not my life goal to be a Youtuber and make money with my video
i think its good for a phone video without any lens or video camera

maybe you can make one? im sure it will be way more clear than mine and i will use your as example for all great people who ask me how i do my build

This is personal preference:

i dont like heat shrink,

if you prefer a sleeving job like this one, fine, its your pump and PC


and i see no issue here to tel witch wire is, red (12v+) become purple, Black (12v-) is silver
i dont see any issue here to know what wire is, just different color

again, personal preference:
i dont like direct wiring to PSU, way more easy to use Molex for filling , bleeding and leak test, i use a 25$ PSU to do that, no need to disconnect all cables t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakerz*
> 
> Nice Vid Snef! I did replace my Molex connector with an XT60 type connector and made a harness for all my fans and what not that just plugs into the PSU.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH56JQJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
> 
> Something like that wound up looking a little neater than the giant white Molex plug that was on my pump from the factory, lol.
> 
> Jake


Thanks

ohh, i like these connector, i will take a look for sure


----------



## iamjanco

Nice vid, SNEF.









Btw, Revan, it's called a flex cable, not a tape wire. I'm not sure when AC moved away from individual wires, but if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can disconnect it and resolder the connections once you're finished with what you need to do.


----------



## DerComissar

I enjoyed that video, nicely sped up as well, through the tedious parts!

Is that paracord snef?
Imo, compared to the plastic variety, Paracord has a classy look to it.

And fitting that nicely sleeved D5 into the Heatkiller Tube D5 res. certainly was the icing on the cake.

Rep+


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made a little video how to sleeve a D5 pump
> 
> sure full of watercool stuff


Thanks for sharing! I enjoyed it








I do get where Revan is coming from: while this video is great to show your tools and how you work and which steps you take, there is no explanatory. It is a great video for people who have some experience in sleeving themselves and maybe wanna learn a few little tricks, and not for firs-time sleevers. Nvertheless, I like it! Okay to share elsewhere?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Is that paracord snef?
> Imo, compared to the plastic variety, Paracord has a classy look to it.
> 
> And fitting that nicely sleeved D5 into the Heatkiller Tube D5 res. certainly was the icing on the cake.
> 
> Rep+


Sure is paracord! We started sleeving our RGB LED strips with that stuff, too, just looks soooooooo classy! Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


Yes please!


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for sharing! I enjoyed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do get where Revan is coming from: while this video is great to show your tools and how you work and which steps you take, there is no explanatory. It is a great video for people who have some experience in sleeving themselves and maybe wanna learn a few little tricks, and not for firs-time sleevers. Nvertheless, I like it! Okay to share elsewhere?
> Sure is paracord! We started sleeving our RGB LED strips with that stuff, too, just looks soooooooo classy! Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


Oh pls do!! intemding to buy a d5 pump soon..


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> soooooooo classy! Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


Yes, Sleeved pumps ftw.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Nice vid, SNEF.


Thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I enjoyed that video, nicely sped up as well, through the tedious parts!
> 
> Is that paracord snef?
> Imo, compared to the plastic variety, Paracord has a classy look to it.
> 
> And fitting that nicely sleeved D5 into the Heatkiller Tube D5 res. certainly was the icing on the cake.
> 
> Rep+


Thanks, yes its Paracord,
have a really classy look and way much more color available, more easy to match the color with coolant
the only downside of the paracord you really need to take care is coolant spill , dust and dirt, sleeving will have some spots and impossible to clean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for sharing! I enjoyed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do get where Revan is coming from: while this video is great to show your tools and how you work and which steps you take, there is no explanatory. It is a great video for people who have some experience in sleeving themselves and maybe wanna learn a few little tricks, and not for firs-time sleevers. Nvertheless, I like it! Okay to share elsewhere?
> Sure is paracord! We started sleeving our RGB LED strips with that stuff, too, just looks soooooooo classy! Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


Thanks alot

yes you can share it, like I said you can use all video or photos I did and will do









ohh I understand what Raven said and I was serious about if he make better one, I dont get me wrong on this








just answer it same way as him,
I'm not a youtuber and very bad teacher,








if you look at all my other video, you will understand I will never do this for money








first , everyone already know this , I don't speak English, yes, but never enough to make a video with my narration to explain how to do it
and to make close up, span shot, zoom movement and all I need , I don't have the equipment and skills, dont forget, i used a Galaxy S7 and his ****ty wide angle to film this one and most of my video
i will let real pro Youtuber to do real "How to" i never and will never pretend to do it perfectly
just saw to much pump with sleeving so ......maybe badly sleeved and this by pro modder/builder
just never saw this way and want share it

don't have time and budget to invest in video equipment, I'm more on photo side and same here, I didn't invest a lot on photo equipment

but believe me I really appreciate these comments and I take note for the next one


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Sure is paracord! We started sleeving our RGB LED strips with that stuff, too, just looks soooooooo classy! Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


Like the others, I'll reply with an enthusiastic "yes please, sleeved is great!" ^_^


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> made a little video how to sleeve a D5 pump
> 
> sure full of watercool stuff


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Thanks
> Thanks, yes its Paracord,
> have a really classy look and way much more color available, more easy to match the color with coolant
> the only downside of the paracord you really need to take care is coolant spill , dust and dirt, sleeving will have some spots and impossible to clean
> Thanks alot
> 
> yes you can share it, like I said you can use all video or photos I did and will do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ohh I understand what Raven said and I was serious about if he make better one, I dont get me wrong on this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just answer it same way as him,
> I'm not a youtuber and very bad teacher,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you look at all my other video, you will understand I will never do this for money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> first , everyone already know this , I don't speak English, yes, but never enough to make a video with my narration to explain how to do it
> and to make close up, span shot, zoom movement and all I need , I don't have the equipment and skills, dont forget, i used a Galaxy S7 and his ****ty wide angle to film this one and most of my video
> i will let real pro Youtuber to do real "How to" i never and will never pretend to do it perfectly
> just saw to much pump with sleeving so ......maybe badly sleeved and this by pro modder/builder
> just never saw this way and want share it
> 
> don't have time and budget to invest in video equipment, I'm more on photo side and same here, I didn't invest a lot on photo equipment
> 
> but believe me I really appreciate these comments and I take note for the next one


I understand perfectly what you are trying to say. I loved your video, no bull****, straight to the point and it's very informative. On your next one, can you consider moving the camera a little bit closer if your tripod setup can do it?

Keep the good work!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Unfortunately, you guys had the right suspicion. We will not be able to deliver the blocks on 24th. We currently plan to ship them on ~1st Dec. But this is not fixed yet, unfortunately. This also depends on schedules at the plaling company and timeframes at the shipping companys between us and the plater, which also tend to get crowded shortly before X-mas... We sincerely apologize for the delay!
> That is correct. Technically speaking, only the nickel plating is "plating". The coloring on both the black front screens of the GPU blocks and the colored struts from the Tubes are anodized, not plated. And yes, there can be small differences from batch to batch, depending on the exact conditions of the chemicals at the company.


</3

Really though it gets here when it gets here. I would prefer if it arrived before year ends so I can close the books out properly.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Nice vid, SNEF.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, Revan, it's called a flex cable, not a tape wire. I'm not sure when AC moved away from individual wires, but if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can disconnect it and resolder the connections once you're finished with what you need to do.


Close enough, I can't really solder the pump at this point since it's already installed in my system. There not allot of space to solder, It's would be very tricky to pull off. The picture shows how much I can open the cover without putting any strain on the wiring.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> call it or not a how to its your business,
> but as i saw in your reply, its clear you fully understand what i show
> 
> for close up, im far away than a pro Youtuber but a builder, this video of not monetized and its not my life goal to be a Youtuber and make money with my video
> i think its good for a phone video without any lens or video camera
> 
> maybe you can make one? im sure it will be way more clear than mine and i will use your as example for all great people who ask me how i do my build
> 
> This is personal preference:
> 
> i dont like heat shrink,
> 
> if you prefer a sleeving job like this one, fine, its your pump and PC
> 
> 
> and i see no issue here to tel witch wire is, red (12v+) become purple, Black (12v-) is silver
> i dont see any issue here to know what wire is, just different color


When both wires are sleeved in Black how you going to tell the difference when heatshrinkless method is used? There is no exposed wire.

----

No one likes Heatshrink, there are times that heatshrink has to be used or it's the better option.

----

That's because I been sleeving for ages. Showing this to first or even second timer they would how a hard time following.

It does not take a pro youtube to get a close up shot of your progress, a simple adjustment to the camera/phone. You could also filmed it in segments or atlease show the finished product close up. Then edit video once done filming it.

----
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I do get where Revan is coming from: while this video is great to show your tools and how you work and which steps you take, *there is no explanatory.* *It is a great video for people who have some experience in sleeving themselves* and maybe wanna learn a few little tricks, and not for firs-time sleevers.
> 
> Sure is paracord! We started sleeving our RGB LED strips with that stuff.
> 
> Maybe we'll start to ship our pumps with black sleeves, too. Would you people like that? Or do you prefer to sleeve yourselves and choose your own colors?


Just a quick questions, Why Paracord and not PET? I know most now of days use PET over paracord. I know allot would like PET over paracord (like MDPC-X).

Also If you don't mind a small note on improving sleeving on your one product. Not sure if there been changed or not since early this year. The old solid LED colors for the res, It would be nice to have smaller sleeving. The sleeving used currently has a habit of popping out due to the sleeving being larger then needed(It looks like the sleeving is designed for Sata).

I would have no problem with the pumps being sleeved in black (Maybe heatshrinkless?).


----------



## Wally West

You don't need to know which color is which one. You just put the connector when the pump is open and you close the pump after. You can clearly see which wire go to which wire when the pump is open.

I'm not following your logic.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> You don't need to know which color is which one. You just put the connector when the pump is open and you close the pump after. You can clearly see which wire go to which wire when the pump is open.
> 
> I'm not following your logic.


Just an example, some wait before connecting the wiring back up. I waited few months before I actually connected my pumps to the housing.

It may not be an issue for some but others may run into this issue.

Also I attached my Pump to PSU due to the fact I have no more Sata/Perf slots to use on my PSU(There are also other advantages). It's strange, the P2 version of my PSU has more sata/perf slots and yet the T2(Which I'm using) has less but output allot more watts/voltage. Not sure who needs 10 VGA slots, I would have taken less VGA slots for more Sata/Perf slots.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Close enough, I can't really solder the pump at this point since it's already installed in my system. There not allot of space to solder, It's would be very tricky to pull off. The picture shows how much I can open the cover without putting any strain on the wiring.
> 
> When both wires are sleeved in Black how you going to tell the difference when heatshrinkless method is used? There is no exposed wire.
> 
> *this is true but can be done very easily, like Wally West said or if you have to work a on pump you have sleeved long time ago, just mark the 12v+ before removing it from the connector or reopen the back of the pump to know witch one is,
> I seriously think you already know that and don't understand your point*
> ----
> 
> No one likes Heatshrink, there are times that heatshrink has to be used or it's the better option
> 
> *maybe but I did this video to avoid using it on the pump, who are maybe the last thing who use heatshrink ((fan cable need some)*
> 
> ----
> 
> That's because I been sleeving for ages. Showing this to first or even second timer they would how a hard time following.
> 
> *
> im really curious to see any of your build or work including sleeving, do you have some build log somewhere?
> if I change the tittle for "how I sleeve my D5 pump" instead of "How to" this will make you happy?
> restart for beginning, i made a video to share how i sleeve my pump, not to do an explicit "How to", like i said to Jakob, i will let pro do this, no skill, time, money and most important, interest to do a real "How TO", if my video help someone, perfect, if not, forget it,*
> 
> It does not take a pro youtube to get a close up shot of your progress, a simple adjustment to the camera/phone. You could also filmed it in segments or atlease show the finished product close up. Then edit video once done filming it.
> *
> like i said and I'm really honest, make one with this slleving method and make it like a real "how to" (like you think a real how to is) and i will be more than happy to use and share it instead of mine
> my main hobby and most of my time are into building PC, I'm sure you already know home much time we need to spend on this type of video (like you want it), its a full time job, that's why i said I'm not a pro youtuber
> but yes next time , i will try to have better framing and some close up*


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Close enough, I can't really solder the pump at this point since it's already installed in my system. There not allot of space to solder, It's would be very tricky to pull off. The picture shows how much I can open the cover without putting any strain on the wiring.
> 
> When both wires are sleeved in Black how you going to tell the difference when heatshrinkless method is used? There is no exposed wire.
> 
> *this is true but can be done very easily, like Wally West said or if you have to work a on pump you have sleeved long time ago, just mark the 12v+ before removing it from the connector or reopen the back of the pump to know witch one is,
> I seriously think you already know that and don't understand your point*
> ----
> 
> No one likes Heatshrink, there are times that heatshrink has to be used or it's the better option
> 
> *maybe but I did this video to avoid using it on the pump, who are maybe the last thing who use heatshrink ((fan cable need some)*
> 
> ----
> 
> That's because I been sleeving for ages. Showing this to first or even second timer they would how a hard time following.
> 
> *
> im really curious to see any of your build or work including sleeving, do you have some build log somewhere?
> if I change the tittle for "how I sleeve my D5 pump" instead of "How to" this will make you happy?
> restart for beginning, i made a video to share how i sleeve my pump, not to do an explicit "How to", like i said to Jakob, i will let pro do this, no skill, time, money and most important, interest to do a real "How TO", if my video help someone, perfect, if not, forget it,*
> 
> It does not take a pro youtube to get a close up shot of your progress, a simple adjustment to the camera/phone. You could also filmed it in segments or atlease show the finished product close up. Then edit video once done filming it.
> *
> like i said and I'm really honest, make one with this slleving method and make it like a real "how to" (like you think a real how to is) and i will be more than happy to use and share it instead of mine
> my main hobby and most of my time are into building PC, I'm sure you already know home much time we need to spend on this type of video (like you want it), its a full time job, that's why i said I'm not a pro youtuber
> but yes next time , i will try to have better framing and some close up*
> 
> 
> 
> Actually Fan cables Don't need any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Here is a few I did a long time ago,
> 
> The only Cable I have found that can't be heatshrinkless are the normal Sata cables(Of course some companies do make them). Molex Sata cables are impossible to create heatshrinkless.
> 
> Check my Project Frost, Allot has changed over the year. I would start in later stuff.
Click to expand...


----------



## The L33t

@Watercool-Jakob Any plans for some Black Friday action?


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Actually Fan cables Don't need any.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Here is a few I did a long time ago,
> 
> The only Cable I have found that can't be heatshrinkless are the normal Sata cables(Of course some companies do make them). Molex Sata cables are impossible to create heatshrinkless.
> 
> Check my Project Frost, Allot has changed over the year. I would start in later stuff.


can you put a lot of flex (like 100 degree) on the 4 pin? I'm interested to see how you did them.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You need to remember that EK is a really big company. There latest statement included a staff of over 90 people. We are NINE people. So, we take up the fight and try to increase our market share, sales, staff, and output of new products. But we are very aware that they have resources and contacts that we don't have. It's an uphill battle, but thanks to your loyal support, we love it!


EK has only 7 R&D personnel , reportedly

edit:
Also I'm sure if you needed more help you could easily find it here on OCN.









edit2:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Guys,
> I got two announcements for you today:
> 
> We now offer RGB LED strips, compatible with all GPU blocks from GTX 1080 / AMD RX Vega and up, and the HEATKILLER Tube series. Find all info in the News.
> 
> 
> 
> Second, WATERCOOL is hiring! We are looking for an experienced CAD/CAM developer to help with design and construction of new blocks and products. Find all info in the job ad. Yes, that means that if we find someone, we'll probably support more custom PCB GPUs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So go go spread the word and find us some new staff


Have you posted this bit on hardwareluxx as well? The userbase is more likely to relocate to Germany if they aren't there already.


----------



## LiquidHaus

must. have. photos. of. threadripper. block.










I'm already envisioning just a damn copper ingot with two ports. and it's gonna be AWESOME.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

I'll not get into the whole sleeving conversation. I have never ever sleeved a single cable myself. It's still on my bucket list of things that I want to try, but up until now, I was too scared to mess something up and fry my whole PC







So, I'm super impressed with all the results shown here, and can not and will not judge one method over the other








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Also I'm sure if you needed more help you could easily find it here on OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit2:
> Have you posted this bit on hardwareluxx as well? The userbase is more likely to relocate to Germany if they aren't there already.


Yup, posted it pretty much anywhere. Thanks for the tip, nevertheless! And yes, people: APPLY! SHARE! TELL YOUR FRIENDS! A great job in a wonderful landscape could be waiting for you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> must. have. photos. of. threadripper. block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm already envisioning just a damn copper ingot with two ports. and it's gonna be AWESOME.


That's pretty much it







And MAN this thing is HEAVY!!!! I mean, it's REALLY HEAVY!!! The two massiv blocks come in at ~1kg of pure copper! I mean, the goodperforming tower coolers (DarkRockPro3 and the likes) are even heavier and have way more leverage forces, but still! Holding this puppy in the hand is a FEELING, dude!


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> MAN this thing is HEAVY!!!! I mean, it's REALLY HEAVY!!! The two massiv blocks come in at ~1kg of pure copper! I mean, the goodperforming tower coolers (DarkRockPro3 and the likes) are even heavier and have way more leverage forces, but still! Holding this puppy in the hand is a FEELING, dude!


..Would it be possible to get the copper block in pure black?


----------



## pmc25

I didn't catch if there was any information on either a specific or rough ETA for the new radiator product lines that were mentioned.

Anyone know anything?


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Has anyone received their copper threadripper block yet or even gotten a shipping confirmation email? I preordered on 11/2 and haven’t heard a thing.


----------



## elkwood

I am in the same boat. Ordered the copper on 11/3
Charged for it on 11/6. Sent a email asking about
a update and have yet to hear back.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wally West*
> 
> can you put a lot of flex (like 100 degree) on the 4 pin? I'm interested to see how you did them.


Yes you can put that much flux on the pin/connector. I talked about how to do it in the sleeving thread. If your interested I suggest heading over and reading the post.


----------



## Bill D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Has anyone received their copper threadripper block yet or even gotten a shipping confirmation email? I preordered on 11/2 and haven't heard a thing.


nope
ordered on 11/14 just says closed

I do wish they would open and get to work


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> ..Would it be possible to get the copper block in pure black?


You mean copper coldplate, acrylic/black top? Generally, yes that's possible. It'll take a little longer, though. Please send me an email and I'll look into it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmc25*
> 
> I didn't catch if there was any information on either a specific or rough ETA for the new radiator product lines that were mentioned.
> 
> Anyone know anything?


No fixed ETA yet. We aim to release the first versions in Q1/2018. We don't know yet if we will and can release all 18 versions simultaneously or if they'll be introduced one after another...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Has anyone received their copper threadripper block yet or even gotten a shipping confirmation email? I preordered on 11/2 and haven't heard a thing.


So, we had another setback in the Threadripper process. But the first batch of copper versions shipped yesterday, and all open copper versions will ship Monday. We are very sorry for the delay.


----------



## Wally West

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> No fixed ETA yet. We aim to release the first versions in Q1/2018. We don't know yet if we will and can release all 18 versions simultaneously or if they'll be introduced one after another...


I think the actual demand is bigger with slimmer rad.


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> So, we had another setback in the Threadripper process. But the first batch of copper versions shipped yesterday, and all open copper versions will ship Monday. We are very sorry for the delay.


Could you give me an estimate then, If I was to order the nickel block instead of the copper block, how much longer before it ships? This is one of the last pieces I need for my build, and I really want to use your new threadripper block!


----------



## pmc25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 1)You mean copper coldplate, acrylic/black top? Generally, yes that's possible. It'll take a little longer, though. Please send me an email and I'll look into it.
> 
> 2)No fixed ETA yet. We aim to release the first versions in Q1/2018. We don't know yet if we will and can release all 18 versions simultaneously or if they'll be introduced one after another...


1) Surely all of the TR blocks have full copper cold plates? Some are just nickel plated, and some are naked, polished copper, right? Slightly unclear.

2) May have to use my existing 2 EK Predator 240 AIOs for my Vega 64 (already used on this) and 1920X (shipping soon) build for the time being then. Guess I'll be selling the Predators early next year instead.

IMO, whilst the build quality and materials are great, the performance of the Watercool radiators are the only sub-par part of the product line. It'll be good to see what the revised / new ones can do.


----------



## Bill D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> So, we had another setback in the Threadripper process. But the first batch of copper versions shipped yesterday, and all open copper versions will ship Monday. We are very sorry for the delay.


thank you for the update


----------



## elkwood

Tks for the update !!!


----------



## Paprika

Well, no better way to spend sunday morning and mid-day than making a 3d model because you need it for your build..


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Well, no better way to spend sunday morning and mid-day than making a 3d model because you need it for your build..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where is this site that allows one to do 3d models of builds?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Where is this site that allows one to do 3d models of builds?


I just use an entry-level program called sketchup. Otherwise there's cad, solidworks etc.

Also, Jakob, do you guys have any opinion of what pump would be better for the mo-ra3? I'm thinking a dual ddc for each loop due to the immense pressure drop. Any thoughts?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> Could you give me an estimate then, If I was to order the nickel block instead of the copper block, how much longer before it ships? This is one of the last pieces I need for my build, and I really want to use your new threadripper block!


Roughly two weeks difference between copper and nickel plated.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmc25*
> 
> 1) Surely all of the TR blocks have full copper cold plates? Some are just nickel plated, and some are naked, polished copper, right? Slightly unclear.


Yes of course! ALL coldplates for all Heatkiller blocks are made from 99.99% pure electrolytic copper. Sorry if I I formulated unprecisely. English isn't my mother tongue, so I guess, I still make a few mistakes...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Also, Jakob, do you guys have any opinion of what pump would be better for the mo-ra3? I'm thinking a dual ddc for each loop due to the immense pressure drop. Any thoughts?


Official company answer: we do not recommend pump setups, because they depend heavily on overall loop layout. Often enough, it's easier to reach better temps by adding another radiator instead of another pump, so it really depends on each loop individually.

My private opinion: Considering flow rate, there is a huge difference between the german and the american community: my understanding is that the american community usually goes by "1Gpm is minimum, 1.4Gpm is the sweet spot". Whereas the german community has the rule of thumb "below 50l/h is critical, between 60-80l/h is fine, everything above 100l/h is just overkill". My private rig runs a HK IV CPU block, HKIV GPU block, our motherboard block, aquaero5 block, aquacomputer filter, 2 Koolance QD3s and a MO-RA3 360 on one D5. If I crank it up to 100%, I get 85l/h (0.37gpm). Under heavy load stress tests, the CPU (i5-6600k, 4.7GHz) reaches 55°C, the GPU (EVGA 1070FTW, 2150MHz) 43°C - these temps are more than good enough _for_me_. I guess by adding two more pumps, I could probably lower the temps by 1° - but in _my_private_ opinion, that's so little gain for so much effort that it's simply not worth it.

If you ask for recommendation: a single DDC would probably struggle with both loops. A single DDC per loop should work fine. Dual DDCs per loop are overkill - but hey, so are dual MO-RAs, so go for it


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Official company answer: we do not recommend pump setups, because they depend heavily on overall loop layout. Often enough, it's easier to reach better temps by adding another radiator instead of another pump, so it really depends on each loop individually.
> 
> My private opinion: Considering flow rate, there is a huge difference between the german and the american community: my understanding is that the american community usually goes by "1Gpm is minimum, 1.4Gpm is the sweet spot". Whereas the german community has the rule of thumb "below 50l/h is critical, between 60-80l/h is fine, everything above 100l/h is just overkill". My private rig runs a HK IV CPU block, HKIV GPU block, our motherboard block, aquaero5 block, aquacomputer filter, 2 Koolance QD3s and a MO-RA3 360 on one D5. If I crank it up to 100%, I get 85l/h (0.37gpm). Under heavy load stress tests, the CPU (i5-6600k, 4.7GHz) reaches 55°C, the GPU (EVGA 1070FTW, 2150MHz) 43°C - these temps are more than good enough _for_me_. I guess by adding two more pumps, I could probably lower the temps by 1° - but in _my_private_ opinion, that's so little gain for so much effort that it's simply not worth it.
> 
> If you ask for recommendation: a single DDC would probably struggle with both loops. A single DDC per loop should work fine. Dual DDCs per loop are overkill - but hey, so are dual MO-RAs, so go for it


My problem is the distroplates built into the case itself from Parvum. A lot of VERY sharp angles combined with the two MO-RA3s. Usually I'd just slap a D5 in per loop, might need two per loop at this point.








Got to give it some thought I guess.


----------



## hebrewbacon

Just got a fedex shipping notification that my copper block is shipping today with expected arrival on the 4th! Pretty excited, I might be able to install it before I leave for vacation


----------



## The L33t

I just put my order for TR block (chrome) + tube res + Vega block and some other bits.

Let's see if I can see this build finished before year's end


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Roughly two weeks difference between copper and nickel plated.


Thanks Jakob!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> My problem is the distroplates built into the case itself from Parvum. A lot of VERY sharp angles combined with the two MO-RA3s. Usually I'd just slap a D5 in per loop, might need two per loop at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to give it some thought I guess.


Dual D5's is my personal preference for flow rate and redundancy.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Dual D5's is my personal preference for flow rate and redundancy.


Yeah, leaning towards four D5s.. Too bad the ek revo dual block is uglier than sin


----------



## elkwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> Just got a fedex shipping notification that my copper block is shipping today with expected arrival on the 4th! Pretty excited, I might be able to install it before I leave for vacation


I also got my notification !!! Woot its due on the 12-4-17 also !! Sweet can't wait to get that sucker in and installed


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> I also got my notification !!! Woot its due on the 12-4-17 also !! Sweet can't wait to get that sucker in and installed


I am super jealous


----------



## LiquidHaus

while we all wait for Watercool's own product photography, I better see you guys posting your own photos of the block as it comes in!

Excited to see this beast!!!


----------



## chibi

Although not the TR blocks, I did receive these today! Does anyone know if the LED is compatible with the EVGA 1080 Ti SC Black Edition card?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Although not the TR blocks, I did receive these today! Does anyone know if the LED is compatible with the EVGA 1080 Ti SC Black Edition card?


very nice!

I have one of these on my FTW 1080...



and the LED strip connection should be the same 4 pin across all the EVGA cards. It's at the back end of the GPU so you can visually see if it will. But it should!

I personally hooked up the LED strip in the block to my new motherboard, as EVGA's LED control is very limited versus Asus' AURA.


----------



## chibi

Nice rig! The led I got only has a 2-pin connector and it defaults to white. I honestly wasn’t sure it was compatible when I ordered, but figured I’d add it to the cart anyways since it had to order direct from watercool.de.


----------



## skline00

Paprika: I use a single D5 pump for my external MO-RA3-420 Pro for my 6700k and GTX980TI and it has PLENTY of flow.

One concern I have is your desire to cram 2 MO-RA3s into the case. Personally I think they were designed to be external free standing radiators. I wonder if cramming both of them into that case will cause too much heat gain or failure to dissipate the heat.


----------



## SavantStrike

@Paprika

Are you doing dual loops with a MO-RA on each loop? With rads that big you might do better to plumb them in series. As long as your flow rate stays high enough you might even get away with running passively under light load.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> Paprika: I use a single D5 pump for my external MO-RA3-420 Pro for my 6700k and GTX980TI and it has PLENTY of flow.
> 
> One concern I have is your desire to cram 2 MO-RA3s into the case. Personally I think they were designed to be external free standing radiators. I wonder if cramming both of them into that case will cause too much heat gain or failure to dissipate the heat.


Possibly. Risk I'll just have to take.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> @Paprika
> 
> Are you doing dual loops with a MO-RA on each loop? With rads that big you might do better to plumb them in series. As long as your flow rate stays high enough you might even get away with running passively under light load.


That was the plan, yeah. One for each loop.
By plumbing them in series, you mean the rads or pumps? Pumps will definitely be in series, 2 per loop. Rads in series won't be an option due to different colored coolant per loop.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Possibly. Risk I'll just have to take.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was the plan, yeah. One for each loop.
> By plumbing them in series, you mean the rads or pumps? Pumps will definitely be in series, 2 per loop. Rads in series won't be an option due to different colored coolant per loop.


I meant rads, but of the coolant colors are different then it doesn't really matter. A MO-RA can handle a lot of heat, so it isn't like you'll be short on rad space with two loops.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> Paprika: I use a single D5 pump for my external MO-RA3-420 Pro for my 6700k and GTX980TI and it has PLENTY of flow.
> 
> One concern I have is your desire to cram 2 MO-RA3s into the case. Personally I think they were designed to be external free standing radiators. I wonder if cramming both of them into that case will cause too much heat gain or failure to dissipate the heat.


As long as they are vented correctly it should not be a problem. Freestanding will give better performance but with the amount of surface area he is talking about it won't matter terribly much.

@Paprika What was your loop order going to be again?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> As long as they are vented correctly it should not be a problem. Freestanding will give better performance but with the amount of surface area he is talking about it won't matter terribly much.
> 
> @Paprika What was your loop order going to be again?


Built-in roof reservoirs-> pumps-> radiator-> distroplate-> blocks-> distroplate-> reservoir.

Something along those lines.


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> while we all wait for Watercool's own product photography, I better see you guys posting your own photos of the block as it comes in!
> 
> Excited to see this beast!!!


You bet!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Nice rig! The led I got only has a 2-pin connector and it defaults to white. I honestly wasn't sure it was compatible when I ordered, but figured I'd add it to the cart anyways since it had to order direct from watercool.de.


hey man I just realized something, the block you just got is for the EVGA 1080 FTW...

You have an EVGA 1080ti SC Black Edition.

These are way different pcb layouts.

Be advised, they will not be compatible.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> hey man I just realized something, the block you just got is for the EVGA 1080 FTW...
> 
> You have an EVGA 1080ti SC Black Edition.
> 
> These are way different pcb layouts.
> 
> Be advised, they will not be compatible.


No, I'm good. I ordered based off the compatibility chart









1x 15584
1x 16063
1x 78023 (LED White)


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> No, I'm good. I ordered based off the compatibility chart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1x 15584
> 1x 16063
> 1x 78023 (LED White)


I must have been mistaken identifying that block from your photo.

It really looked like the FTW block lol.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Although not the TR blocks, I did receive these today! Does anyone know if the LED is compatible with the EVGA 1080 Ti SC Black Edition card?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Nice rig! The led I got only has a 2-pin connector and it defaults to white. I honestly wasn't sure it was compatible when I ordered, but figured I'd add it to the cart anyways since it had to order direct from watercool.de.


Yes, the LED strip is compatible with that card. The card comes with a 2pin header where you can connect the strip directly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I must have been mistaken identifying that block from your photo.
> 
> It really looked like the FTW block lol.


All the recent blocks (10X0, 1080Ti, Titan Xp, 10X0FTW, RX Vega) follow the same principle design language. Even I have a hard time sometimes to identify the correct model by just a picture


----------



## chibi

Thanks Jakob, I haven't taken apart the card yet but I'm definitely glad I ordered the LED as well


----------



## elkwood

Just got mine Threadripper block in today!!! Was shocked to get it early like that.Since it was
showing a dec 4 date.

First impression is this thing weighs a ton !! Got to be 2+ pounds.

Here are some poor camera phone pics of it



Have the mouse next for size comparison. Its huge !!



Very impressed with it so far. Ill take it apart and post pics have the cool plate if someone doesn't beat me
to it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

DAMN that's a beast.

I also noticed right away that the outlet placement is different than in the renders.

Looking at the acrylic version render again though, I can see why - the outlet appeared to be path of least resistance, so full fluid pass through within the fin array would have been reduced.

The ports almost look too close together if someone had big diameter fittings but I'm sure because the sheer size of the block itself, the distance is actually greater between outlet and inlet than what it appears.


----------



## jarble

Thanks for the pics


----------



## Paprika

Looks great, but one little detail I noticed..



Aren't the threads in the completely wrong locations like lifeisshort117 mentioned?

Kind of messes with my plans.


----------



## trnewb

Kind of messes with my plans a bit too - especially since you can't rotate it. Though to be quite honest, if it performs - and my expectations are quite high here - I'll be happy to change my plans























Any chance yet to inspect the fin area?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Kind of messes with my plans a bit too - especially since you can't rotate it. Though to be quite honest, if it performs - and my expectations are quite high here - I'll be happy to change my plans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance yet to inspect the fin area?


Just about the same for me tbqh.


----------



## elkwood

Here are a few pics of the insides. Sigh i need a new phone for a better camera













And the fin plate.


----------



## elkwood

Here is one more with the fittings on it. which are Monsoon 7/16 x 5/8


----------



## trnewb

Thanks for the pics and that is one awesome looking waterblock! Seems like I need to order this baby for myself now


----------



## ruffhi

Some pics of my HeatKiller CPU and CPU block ...


----------



## Jakerz

Question for you guys and Jakob. Is there any advantage to ordering the 115X backplate they offer for a Heatkiller IV block going on a Z370 setup? Getting ready to transfer all my stuff and going from EK to all Watercool stuff so I'm just trying to get an idea of what all I need to order.

Thanks!
Jake


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakerz*
> 
> Question for you guys and Jakob. Is there any advantage to ordering the 115X backplate they offer for a Heatkiller IV block going on a Z370 setup? Getting ready to transfer all my stuff and going from EK to all Watercool stuff so I'm just trying to get an idea of what all I need to order.
> 
> Thanks!
> Jake


Interesting. Does the block not come with one or is it not needed as it uses the stock one that comes on the mobo?

I'm using an x99 HK IV so mine didn't come with more need one.

I'm guessing here, but it looks aesthetic. I can't imagine they sell a cpu block that requires a different backplate and not providing one. Could be wrong though.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@ruffhi What case is that?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> @ruffhi What case is that?


Caselab's Mercury S5 with pedestal


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Caselab's Mercury S5 with pedestal


That is a nice case, but expensive. I've been looking for a good "but affordable" case with a vertical MB mount for my next build (when and if that ever happens). I have a few others in my list that are less costly but not as pretty.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Here are a few pics of the insides. Sigh i need a new phone for a better camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the fin plate.


Thanks for the shots







. It looks like the fin array almost covers the heatspreader footprint with some room given for the walls and seals. If I took a guess the renders were from the first build that did not give the performance they were looking for. Thankfully I have not been mocking up my design based on the renders but now that we have some real photos I can start planning the loop layout.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> That is a nice case, but expensive. I've been looking for a good "but affordable" case with a vertical MB mount for my next build (when and if that ever happens). I have a few others in my list that are less costly but not as pretty.


I was about to say CaseLabs SMA8-A but then you said affordable. Still a gorgeous as all sin ncase though!


----------



## elkwood

I spent the afternoon switching over from my xspc blk to the Heat killer. I was
very put out at first for my temps sucked. Now i have concluded it was from some
air trapped in the blk. I pulled the blk off to only find i had great coverage on paste.

I redid paste and found i had even worse temps, I was ticked. So i started playing with the
pump speed and i was able to clear most of what ever it was that was causing my issue. I love
the all copper top but it is nice to have a clear one to see what is going on.

One observation is its a ***** to get the screws in with it all installed in the case with memory
and vc right next to 2 of the screw holes. The screws are very nice but not magnetic and with the
springs and all it was a ***** to get them started.

I found that taking off the springs on 2 of the screws
getting them started allowed me to get the springs + screw going on the other holes. Damn blk was sliding all over the place
otherwise.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> I was about to say CaseLabs SMA8-A but then you said affordable. Still a gorgeous as all sin ncase though!


Oops, I meant horizontal...lol. But yeah that SMA8-A case is sweet looking!


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oops, I meant horizontal...lol. But yeah that SMA8-A case is sweet looking!


My bad, I read vertical GPU instead of what you wrote ^_^


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> I spent the afternoon switching over from my xspc blk to the Heat killer. I was
> very put out at first for my temps sucked. Now i have concluded it was from some
> air trapped in the blk. I pulled the blk off to only find i had great coverage on paste.
> 
> I redid paste and found i had even worse temps, I was ticked. So i started playing with the
> pump speed and i was able to clear most of what ever it was that was causing my issue. I love
> the all copper top but it is nice to have a clear one to see what is going on.
> 
> One observation is its a ***** to get the screws in with it all installed in the case with memory
> and vc right next to 2 of the screw holes. The screws are very nice but not magnetic and with the
> springs and all it was a ***** to get them started.
> 
> I found that taking off the springs on 2 of the screws
> getting them started allowed me to get the springs + screw going on the other holes. Damn blk was sliding all over the place
> otherwise.


And now that you got he air out how are those temps in comparison with the previous setup?

Thx


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Oops, I meant horizontal...lol. But yeah that SMA8-A case is sweet looking!


I spent a while looking for a case like that. I never found one that I really liked. I mean I do dig the caselabs but they are pricey and I wasn't willing to drop that kind of money on a case. I know you get what you pay for, and I'm sure they're worth it. I also like, occasionally, swapping cases. Less likely to do that with some that cost that much.

Mostly wanted the horizontal motherboard for a better look at the gpu block. Now that vertical gpu mounts are the 'it' thing I could expand my search for cases. Ended up with the Thermaltake view 31 tg. Hard to beat at a hundred bucks.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> And now that you got he air out how are those temps in comparison with the previous setup?
> 
> Thx


I'm in very early stages of testing but looks like approximately the same temps as XSPC.


----------



## elkwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> And now that you got he air out how are those temps in comparison with the previous setup?
> 
> Thx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> I'm in very early stages of testing but looks like approximately the same temps as XSPC.


I concur early testing showing me about the same temps. If it wasn't such a pain to do i would pull
the metal divider out and see if that has any effect. Here a screen shot on hw64. Note the peak temp u
see was done while mining the gpu and running cinebench 4 times in rapid order. This is a 1920x set
at 4.05 gigs at 1.3ish volts.


----------



## LiquidHaus

your screenshot shows the package temp for your TR but not individual cores, regardless that package temp is way high.

what is your loop like?


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> your screenshot shows the package temp for your TR but not individual cores, regardless that package temp is way high.
> 
> what is your loop like?


Unfortunately with Ryzen etc you can't see the individual core temps.
63 max tdie isn't inherently bad on any TR4 CPU. My 1950X cruises on 80C in prime95 small blends @4ghz. However that's with an AIO.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Unfortunately with Ryzen etc you can't see the individual core temps.
> 63 max tdie isn't inherently bad on any TR4 CPU. My 1950X cruises on 80C in prime95 small blends @4ghz. However that's with an AIO.


oh my god.

I am so dumb. I've been working on a higher overclock with my other system which uses a 6700k, and because I'm so used to seeing individual core temps on that, seeing that screenshot right after I just assumed to look for it.

AND I have threadripper too. jeez that's embarrassing.

but yeah, my 1920x at 4.15ghz gets no where near high and i'm currently using the Enermax 360 AIO.

so i'm not sure what's going on with that screenshot...maybe time for a bios update??


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> oh my god.
> 
> I am so dumb. I've been working on a higher overclock with my other system which uses a 6700k, and because I'm so used to seeing individual core temps on that, seeing that screenshot right after I just assumed to look for it.
> 
> AND I have threadripper too. jeez that's embarrassing.
> 
> but yeah, my 1920x at 4.15ghz gets no where near high and i'm currently using the Enermax 360 AIO.
> 
> so i'm not sure what's going on with that screenshot...maybe time for a bios update??


What voltage/LLC are you running, and what temps at 100%/prime95 small fft?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> What voltage/LLC are you running, and what temps at 100%/prime95 small fft?


I don't run prime for amd platforms, just aida.

and I am at 1.39v, not sure LLC and temps were at 68c last time I ran it.


----------



## elkwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> your screenshot shows the package temp for your TR but not individual cores, regardless that package temp is way high.
> 
> what is your loop like?


I have a 420 and 280 single loop.

My loop goes res -- 280-- 1080ti--1080ti--420--cpu--res

I'll pull the blk back off and reapply the TIM sometime down the road.Maybe i have
a air pocket or something that is effecting the temps at load. Its strange all my other
temps are great.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I don't run prime for amd platforms, just aida.
> 
> and I am at 1.39v, not sure LLC and temps were at 68c last time I ran it.


Hmm, interesting.

Guess I'll be reporting my numbers when I get the nickel block and run it off've a mo-ra3 420


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Just got mine Threadripper block in today!!! Was shocked to get it early like that.Since it was
> showing a dec 4 date.
> 
> First impression is this thing weighs a ton !! Got to be 2+ pounds.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some poor camera phone pics of it
> 
> 
> 
> Have the mouse next for size comparison. Its huge !!
> 
> 
> 
> Very impressed with it so far. Ill take it apart and post pics have the cool plate if someone doesn't beat me
> to it.


Pretty exactly 1 kg. But yeah, it is an almost massive copper block









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> DAMN that's a beast.
> 
> I also noticed right away that the outlet placement is different than in the renders.


Yeah, we played around with the port situation and the internal design quite a lot. As you noticed, the renders were an earlier version that didn't perform as good as we wanted it to, so we changed things around. That's also one of the reasons why we didn't publish any pics of those pre-series prototypes...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Some pics of my HeatKiller CPU and CPU block ...


Thanks for sharing! Looking good!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakerz*
> 
> Question for you guys and Jakob. Is there any advantage to ordering the 115X backplate they offer for a Heatkiller IV block going on a Z370 setup? Getting ready to transfer all my stuff and going from EK to all Watercool stuff so I'm just trying to get an idea of what all I need to order.
> 
> Thanks!
> Jake


You can install a Heatkiller on a 115X board without the backplate, all required mounting hardware is included. The backplate is optional. It helps spreading and reducing the mechanical stress around the socket area and can, in certain mounting orientations, minimally reduce temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> I spent the afternoon switching over from my xspc blk to the Heat killer. I was
> very put out at first for my temps sucked. Now i have concluded it was from some
> air trapped in the blk. I pulled the blk off to only find i had great coverage on paste.
> 
> I redid paste and found i had even worse temps, I was ticked. So i started playing with the
> pump speed and i was able to clear most of what ever it was that was causing my issue. I love
> the all copper top but it is nice to have a clear one to see what is going on.
> 
> One observation is its a ***** to get the screws in with it all installed in the case with memory
> and vc right next to 2 of the screw holes. The screws are very nice but not magnetic and with the
> springs and all it was a ***** to get them started.
> 
> I found that taking off the springs on 2 of the screws
> getting them started allowed me to get the springs + screw going on the other holes. Damn blk was sliding all over the place
> otherwise.


Thanks for the feedback! We tried bleeding the air both in vertical and horizontal orientation and never had an issue, it bled really fast and easy, running on a single D5 and our MO-RA 420 test setup.
Regarding the installation troubles: did you use the supplied allen wrench? We packed an especially long one so it would be long enough to fit over a video card.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> I concur early testing showing me about the same temps. If it wasn't such a pain to do i would pull
> the metal divider out and see if that has any effect. Here a screen shot on hw64. Note the peak temp u
> see was done while mining the gpu and running cinebench 4 times in rapid order. This is a 1920x set
> at 4.05 gigs at 1.3ish volts.


Okay, firstr of all: ignore Tctl. That is not an actual temperature reading, but an synthetic software calculated scale. Additionally, AMD uses its 27° offset on this value, which reflects perfectly in your numbers: the actual temperature is 63°C in your setup.

For comparison: we run a 1950X at 4.05GHz 1.35V, cooled with a MO-RA 420, and have it at 55.5°C. To compare different blocks more easily: our DeltaT CPU/Water is at 32°C.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty exactly 1 kg. But yeah, it is an almost massive copper block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, we played around with the port situation and the internal design quite a lot. As you noticed, the renders were an earlier version that didn't perform as good as we wanted it to, so we changed things around. That's also one of the reasons why we didn't publish any pics of those pre-series prototypes...
> Thanks for sharing! Looking good!
> You can install a Heatkiller on a 115X board without the backplate, all required mounting hardware is included. The backplate is optional. It helps spreading and reducing the mechanical stress around the socket area and can, in certain mounting orientations, minimally reduce temps.
> Thanks for the feedback! We tried bleeding the air both in vertical and horizontal orientation and never had an issue, it bled really fast and easy, running on a single D5 and our MO-RA 420 test setup.
> Regarding the installation troubles: did you use the supplied allen wrench? We packed an especially long one so it would be long enough to fit over a video card.
> Okay, firstr of all: ignore Tctl. That is not an actual temperature reading, but an synthetic software calculated scale. Additionally, AMD uses its 27° offset on this value, which reflects perfectly in your numbers: the actual temperature is 63°C in your setup.
> 
> For comparison: we run a 1950X at 4.05GHz 1.35V, cooled with a MO-RA 420, and have it at 55.5°C. To compare different blocks more easily: our DeltaT CPU/Water is at 32°C.


Any updates on how the nickel blocks are progressing / official photo shoot?


----------



## The L33t

Hopefully they're ready for the 6th like the website has ATM. Only thing missing to finish my build at this point is my watercool order. Small vacation during christimas would allow the perfect time for some work to be done


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay, firstr of all: ignore Tctl. That is not an actual temperature reading, but an synthetic software calculated scale. Additionally, AMD uses its 27° offset on this value, which reflects perfectly in your numbers: the actual temperature is 63°C in your setup.
> 
> For comparison: we run a 1950X at 4.05GHz 1.35V, cooled with a MO-RA 420, and have it at 55.5°C. To compare different blocks more easily: our DeltaT CPU/Water is at 32°C.


Is that 55.5C at 100% synthetic load?


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Just got mine Threadripper block in today!!! Was shocked to get it early like that.Since it was
> showing a dec 4 date.
> 
> First impression is this thing weighs a ton !! Got to be 2+ pounds.
> 
> Here are some poor camera phone pics of it
> 
> Have the mouse next for size comparison. Its huge !!
> 
> Very impressed with it so far. Ill take it apart and post pics have the cool plate if someone doesn't beat me
> to it.


Missed this post but damn! Mine is out for delivery today. Didn't expect it to weigh that much holy crap. Really happy to see this kind of quality!


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You can install a Heatkiller on a 115X board without the backplate, all required mounting hardware is included. The backplate is optional. It helps spreading and reducing the mechanical stress around the socket area and can, in certain mounting orientations, minimally reduce temps.


Hi Jakob,

Just wanted to give you a quick shout out. I was on the fence with trying some new products with my 8700K build, and initially decided to only give the reservoir a go. Between your active presence on the forums and overall product support for all members here, including a few posts from myself. I've gone ahead and ordered a complete Heatkiller solution for my GPU, CPU and Reservoir. Can't wait for the blocks to arrive!









I too was wondering about the optional backplate, but decided to order it just in case and I'm glad I did. Probably not the smartest way of procuring items, but at least it worked out in the end


----------



## hebrewbacon

My block just came in today. Pretty speechless right now. The weight is just insane


----------



## elkwood

Yep the weight of it really blew me away. Next thing that caught my attention was the quality of the hold down bolts. They look really nice. I had a few issues getting them lined in with
the blk sliding all over the place on me. Next time ill use some blk electrical tape to hold them on the hex wrench. Will free up a hand to keep the blk in place. Also would have been super
easy if the mb not been installed.

I think u will be really happy with the blk !1 Look forward to hearing what u think of it.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> My block just came in today. Pretty speechless right now. The weight is just insane


Looking good


----------



## Paprika

Full nickel block ordered!









To Jakob and the other guys who already got their blocks, the piece with the logo on it, how is it attached to the block itself?
I'd like to vinyl wrap it or alike.

Also a shameless self-quote.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Courtesy of Imersa, the most recent renders for my soon to-be case (it has already changed a bit, but the renders are just too nice):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Heatkiller blocks, WC Pumps and tops, double mo-ra3 420s. It's slowly coming to life.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

So now we know who is causing the worldwide shortage of copper.
And no, this is not Tesla.

The most impressive indeed!


----------



## Bill D

mine showed up today yes it is heavy


----------



## hebrewbacon

I just put it on my scale. It's even more than a Kg


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> I just put it on my scale. It's even more than a Kg


mein herr!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Is that 55.5C at 100% synthetic load?


Ah, sorry, forgot to mention. Yep, prime 95, 12 fixed in place









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hi Jakob,
> 
> Just wanted to give you a quick shout out. I was on the fence with trying some new products with my 8700K build, and initially decided to only give the reservoir a go. Between your active presence on the forums and overall product support for all members here, including a few posts from myself. I've gone ahead and ordered a complete Heatkiller solution for my GPU, CPU and Reservoir. Can't wait for the blocks to arrive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too was wondering about the optional backplate, but decided to order it just in case and I'm glad I did. Probably not the smartest way of procuring items, but at least it worked out in the end


Happy to hear! And congratulations on the good decision, you will most definitely not regret it








I have the CPU backplate for my private rig, too (actually ordered it 2 months before started working here - talk about bad timing







). It just feels more sturdy, robust, and reliable. Now I know that it is not required by Intel's specifications for the sockets, but... YOLO, I guess...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Full nickel block ordered!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To Jakob and the other guys who already got their blocks, the piece with the logo on it, how is it attached to the block itself?
> I'd like to vinyl wrap it or alike.
> 
> Also a shameless self-quote.
> Heatkiller blocks, WC Pumps and tops, double mo-ra3 420s. It's slowly coming to life.


The inlay is held in place by double-sided adhesive tape by 3M. You could possibly force it out with two screwdrivers, but that will probably leave a dent in the copper. I don't recommend using any solvent to soften the glue because there is clear finish on the copper to protect it against corrosion.

And that case looks awesome, really looking forward to that project









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> I just put it on my scale. It's even more than a Kg


After the initial digital design phase, we had the CAD program calculate the weight of this and were shocked ourselves. But then we checked it with AMD's specs for that socket, and we are way within their tolerances. And some of the bigger tower blower coolers (BeQuiet DarkRockPro and such) are even heavier AND have way more leverage, the weight in our block is very concentrated and close to the MB surface in comparison. So no need to worry about the weight









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Yep the weight of it really blew me away. Next thing that caught my attention was the quality of the hold down bolts. They look really nice. I had a few issues getting them lined in with
> the blk sliding all over the place on me. Next time ill use some blk electrical tape to hold them on the hex wrench. Will free up a hand to keep the blk in place. Also would have been super
> easy if the mb not been installed.
> 
> I think u will be really happy with the blk !1 Look forward to hearing what u think of it.


We always installed the blocks on our test bench, so on a horizontal MB. After your comments, I put the MB in an old case and tried installation there. I agree, it is way more complicated. We definitely suggest installing the block while the MB is horizontal!


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The inlay is held in place by double-sided adhesive tape by 3M. You could possibly force it out with two screwdrivers, but that will probably leave a dent in the copper. I don't recommend using any solvent to soften the glue because there is clear finish on the copper to protect it against corrosion.
> 
> And that case looks awesome, really looking forward to that project


I'll just have to figure something out then.
Some careful vinyl wrapping should work wonders even if it's stationary in the block.

And yeah, likewise. However my wallet isn't too happy at all.


----------



## The L33t

@Watercool-Jakob Are we on schedule for the TR nickel tomorrow?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Are we on schedule for the TR nickel tomorrow?


I would also love an update on this...... I am getting jelly of all the people that already have their copper blocks


----------



## hebrewbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> After the initial digital design phase, we had the CAD program calculate the weight of this and were shocked ourselves. But then we checked it with AMD's specs for that socket, and we are way within their tolerances. And some of the bigger tower blower coolers (BeQuiet DarkRockPro and such) are even heavier AND have way more leverage, the weight in our block is very concentrated and close to the MB surface in comparison. So no need to worry about the weight


Oh, I'm not worried at all. I'm just amazed at how hefty this thing is


----------



## pmc25

What's the difference between the D5 WCP and D5 pumps that Watercool carry?


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmc25*
> 
> What's the difference between the D5 WCP and D5 pumps that Watercool carry?


WPC Has a decoration plate on the bottom. No other changes.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Have a Supremacy EVO now, bought a second-hand full nickel IV PRO.

The performance would be on pair?

Using a single MO-RA3 for my 1080Ti (Undervoltet) and comming I7 8770K (Golden & delidded).


----------



## Paprika

Very, very, very early version of the vinyl that will go on the block.
Just need to figure out what font and text size is used.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Have a Supremacy EVO now, bought a second-hand full nickel IV PRO.
> 
> The performance would be on pair?
> 
> Using a single MO-RA3 for my 1080Ti (Undervoltet) and comming I7 8770K (Golden & delidded).


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Are we on schedule for the TR nickel tomorrow?


'Sigh' We were hoping to get them out of the door, but... nope. Still stuck at the plating company. Christmas workload at the shipping companies will probably not help, either, so... We currently expect to ship them on Monday







Very sorry ://
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hebrewbacon*
> 
> Oh, I'm not worried at all. I'm just amazed at how hefty this thing is


Well, it's definitely the biggest massive water block currently on the market









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pmc25*
> 
> What's the difference between the D5 WCP and D5 pumps that Watercool carry?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> WPC Has a decoration plate on the bottom. No other changes.


That is correct.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> 
> 
> Very, very, very early version of the vinyl that will go on the block.
> Just need to figure out what font and text size is used.


Will the Atlas logo stay there? I kinda like it. Right now gives me a "this block carries the weight of this build" feeling, which seems cool, seeing how massive and strong that block is. Regarding the lettering: we don't use a font, it's a graphics design. I can send you a version of the logo that you can use as stencil.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the way these graphs look







But to be perfectly honest, there are tests where the Evo got even closer to the Heatkiller. I don't like EK products, but they are not entirely bad


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Will the Atlas logo stay there? I kinda like it. Right now gives me a "this block carries the weight of this build" feeling, which seems cool, seeing how massive and strong that block is. Regarding the lettering: we don't use a font, it's a graphics design. I can send you a version of the logo that you can use as stencil.


Yes, the Atlas logo will stay.









If you could send it, I'd very much appreciate it!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 'Sigh' We were hoping to get them out of the door, but... nope. Still stuck at the plating company. Christmas workload at the shipping companies will probably not help, either, so... We currently expect to ship them on Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very sorry ://
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well, it's definitely the biggest massive water block currently on the market
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is correct.
> Will the Atlas logo stay there? I kinda like it. Right now gives me a "this block carries the weight of this build" feeling, which seems cool, seeing how massive and strong that block is. Regarding the lettering: we don't use a font, it's a graphics design. I can send you a version of the logo that you can use as stencil.
> 
> 
> *I like the way these graphs look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But to be perfectly honest, there are tests where the Evo got even closer to the Heatkiller. I don't like EK products, but they are not entirely bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I kinda had a feeling








This bit here is gold







You candidness is top notch


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Definitely no Monoblock. VRM only is our way to go. ETA: when Threadripper production is hiccup-free and steadily rolling. Probably December-ish...?


Any news on the APEX VRM







?


----------



## LiquidHaus

in regards to VRM blocks,

they can essentially update their universal line to accommodate newest board designs.

mosfets have got smaller, and with that the capacitors are closer to the chokes. but the pattern I'm seeing with these newer generations boards are skinnier gaps that the block would need to reside.

the current universal line of blocks from Heatkiller are a lot wider, based on older board designs.

If they lock down a refreshed design with a skinnier contact then they can make various length blocks with even more various length cooling plates that you can modify yourself for whatever board you have.

For example:

This is the Apex z370 phase layout...








notice the small channel in which the waterblock would need to sit?

versus some other boards...









the channel is a lot wider, which would most likely be able to work with the current universal blocks that Heatkiller has.

But most of the higher end sought after boardsthese days have the skinnier phase channel, and all current universal blocks on the market right now do not accommodate them.

That's the issue, and we need a solution. Hopefully Heatkiller sees this but I believe they already do.

EDIT:

another example...
Here is the X299 Taichi XE










You see how skinny that phase channel is?










you got the stock heatsink designed to cool the chokes and the mosfets, but most VRM blocks are designed to sit on top of the mosfets only.

Again, these are examples of what would need to happen to create a new universal line of VRM blocks that I know would sell fast.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tiefox*
> 
> Any news on the APEX VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


The copper version has its test seating today! Hooray! Will probably have its photoshooting today or tomorrow, so will become a buyable article in the shop... hm.... let's say monday? Nickel plated versions two weeks later, as usual.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> in regards to VRM blocks,
> 
> they can essentially update their universal line to accommodate newest board designs.
> 
> mosfets have got smaller, and with that the capacitors are closer to the chokes. but the pattern I'm seeing with these newer generations boards are skinnier gaps that the block would need to reside.
> 
> the current universal line of blocks from Heatkiller are a lot wider, based on older board designs.
> 
> If they lock down a refreshed design with a skinnier contact then they can make various length blocks with even more various length cooling plates that you can modify yourself for whatever board you have.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For example:
> 
> This is the Apex z370 phase layout...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> notice the small channel in which the waterblock would need to sit?
> 
> versus some other boards...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the channel is a lot wider, which would most likely be able to work with the current universal blocks that Heatkiller has.
> 
> But most of the higher end sought after boardsthese days have the skinnier phase channel, and all current universal blocks on the market right now do not accommodate them.
> 
> That's the issue, and we need a solution. Hopefully Heatkiller sees this but I believe they already do.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> another example...
> Here is the X299 Taichi XE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You see how skinny that phase channel is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you got the stock heatsink designed to cool the chokes and the MOSFETs, but most VRM blocks are designed to sit on top of the MOSFETs only.
> 
> Again, these are examples of what would need to happen to create a new universal line of VRM blocks that I know would sell fast.


Hm, some interesting ideas. The Apex and Zenith blocks will be part of the MB-X product line, so in a similar design to the Rampage V blocks, for example. So the will also cool both the MOSFETs and the chokes. But your idea about the more standard SW-X line (which we continue to offer as DIY kits for every motherboard that the customer can dream of) is interesting. We know there are many people who want to cool their VRMs. But often enough, it's too small a niche within the niche to be actually cost-efficient for us to design an MB-X kit. But maybe, we could support more boards with SW-X kits with custom fitted baseplates.

What's your opinion, folks: would you want to buy and use those SW-X kits from Watercool? Or would you rather skip them and buy some different solution?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The copper version has its test seating today! Hooray! Will probably have its photoshooting today or tomorrow, so will become a buyable article in the shop... hm.... let's say monday? Nickel plated versions two weeks later, as usual.
> Hm, some interesting ideas. The Apex and Zenith blocks will be part of the MB-X product line, so in a similar design to the Rampage V blocks, for example. So the will also cool both the MOSFETs and the chokes. But your idea about the more standard SW-X line (which we continue to offer as DIY kits for every motherboard that the customer can dream of) is interesting. We know there are many people who want to cool their VRMs. But often enough, it's too small a niche within the niche to be actually cost-efficient for us to design an MB-X kit. But maybe, we could support more boards with SW-X kits with custom fitted baseplates.
> 
> What's your opinion, folks: would you want to buy and use those SW-X kits from Watercool? Or would you rather skip them and buy some different solution?


Personally the biggest selling point for me would be that it has been tested with the board I am trying to cool. I know there are plenty of people out there more than willing to take the measurements and drop something that should work down but for me it needs to very clear that it works with my hardware and not just the dimensions.


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> What's your opinion, folks: would you want to buy and use those SW-X kits from Watercool? Or would you rather skip them and buy some different solution?


I would be interested, especially for threadripper! I assume x299 people would be interested too.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

We discussed the VRM waterblock situation today very thoroughly. Here are some hard facts: it is very time-consuming to exactly measure motherboards. Next up, it is very time-consuming to produce MB-X waterblocks for them. But then, often enough, we only sell a few of those blocks! Inside the big Enthusiast market, watercooling is a niche, and VRM cooling is a niche in this niche, and WATERCOOL is a relatively unknown manufacturer with high quality products (and corresponding prices) - all this adds up to a small market segment that we can aim for. So, if we want to support VRM cooling (which we totally do want!), we need to find a modular system, that doesn't require a lot of designing and machining time for each separate motherboard, but comes with a handful of standardized components that can be assembled to match most motherboards on the market.
We already do have a few ideas how such a system could work, but we need data. We can't simply buy the 100 most popular motherboards to gather that data ourselves, so...

*We need your help*

If you want to help us, provide pictures of your motherboards! That way, we can hopefully build a broad database with which we can start initial designs. We need three clear, focused shots:
- motherboard socket area without the VRM heatsink(s), straight shot from above. Preferably not tilted or angled, but straight frontal shot. Example, Preferred example
- backside of the heatsink with thermal pads still applied (optimal: VRM prints in the pad visible) Example, Example2
- backside of the motherboard (with vrm heatsink backplates mounted, if present) Example

We are only looking for ATX and eATX boards with sockets 1151, 2011, 2011-v3, 2066 or AM4. If you have or want to provide pics, please send them to [email protected] and state the full name of your motherboard.

We cannot and do not promise that this will work out on the long term. As I said, we want to compare measurements and see if we can come up with a simple, modular, one-product-fits-most solution. Maybe we'll fail. But if we get a lot of samples and our initial rough pen sketches work out, we might come up with some sort of solution in 2018.
Thanks for your help!


----------



## SavantStrike

Jakob, are you looking for a specific vintage for motherboards, or all vintages

I'm more than happy to start taking shots of any board I work on of it's helpful!


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Would love VRM cooling for my Z370 HERO X.









Already using a MO-RA3 and installed a Nickel IV Pro.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Would love VRM cooling for my Z370 HERO X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already using a MO-RA3 and installed a Nickel IV Pro.


+1 on that! There are a lot of CH6 Hero owners on here. I'd kill for a Watercool VRM block setup, or a monoblock!


----------



## snef

will try to take some of my Hero X but need to ask if I can dismantle it not sure at this time


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Jakob, are you looking for a specific vintage for motherboards, or all vintages
> 
> I'm more than happy to start taking shots of any board I work on of it's helpful!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Would love VRM cooling for my Z370 HERO X.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already using a MO-RA3 and installed a Nickel IV Pro.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> +1 on that! There are a lot of CH6 Hero owners on here. I'd kill for a Watercool VRM block setup, or a monoblock!


Our ultimate goal is to produce
a) one universal VRM block that can fit (almost) any motherboard
or
b) a modular system of ~5-10 components that can be assembled in different ways to fit (almost) any motherboard.

So, we are in stage 0.1 of the process: we simply want to look at as many different boards, layouts, manufacturers, generations, sockets, as possible. We hope to find reoccurring patterns, similarities, that span over many individual boards. We hope to be able to start designing from there on. So please, just send me pics of what you got. Everything helps in the analysis.
We do not promise anything, not even that we WILL have a produt at the end of this. It IS a shot in the dark. Maybe we will fail. But we are straight about it


----------



## The L33t

@Watercool-Jakob
Those fine TR4 nickel blocks are finally showing in stock at the store. I guess they are really shipping today







?!?

Order *7554* here.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> Those fine TR4 nickel blocks are finally showing in stock at the store. I guess they are really shipping today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?!?
> 
> Order *7554* here.


That is correct! the Copper Nickel block started shipping today. We will have all orders including that block shipped by tomorrow.

The plating company had an issue with the anodize - chemicals for the aluminum front plates, though. They are doing it all over again, but don't know if they can fix the issue. We will know tomorrow (hopefully!). This means that the acrylic versions are pushed back again for a couple of days... Worst case scenario: the whole batch of aluminum covers is destroyed and we have to manufacture it again. I'll keep you updated how this evolves...


----------



## The L33t

Nice! Doubtful I will be Able to finish the build this year but I will at least be able to finally put everything it it's place and start the modding on the case and deciding on tube routings.

Putting 3 360mm rads on the PC-O11 ROG + setting up a vertical mount on top of the bottom rad + pump on the back chamber with some pass throughs... Lots of work to be done!

I can only order the fittings once I have all lined up otherwise I would have to order many extra and try my luck.

Sorry to ear about the issues with the other versions. Very unfortunate.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That is correct! the Copper Nickel block started shipping today. We will have all orders including that block shipped by tomorrow.
> 
> The plating company had an issue with the anodize - chemicals for the aluminum front plates, though. They are doing it all over again, but don't know if they can fix the issue. We will know tomorrow (hopefully!). This means that the acrylic versions are pushed back again for a couple of days... Worst case scenario: the whole batch of aluminum covers is destroyed and we have to manufacture it again. I'll keep you updated how this evolves...


















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Hopefully I get a shipping notice soon so I can spam f5 for updates


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work on the pyramid







.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Nice work on the pyramid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I might have been a touch excited


----------



## ruffhi

Nothing wrong with that


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> That is correct! the Copper Nickel block started shipping today. We will have all orders including that block shipped by tomorrow.











Quote:


> The plating company had an issue with the anodize - chemicals for the aluminum front plates, though. They are doing it all over again, but don't know if they can fix the issue. We will know tomorrow (hopefully!). This means that the acrylic versions are pushed back again for a couple of days... Worst case scenario: the whole batch of aluminum covers is destroyed and we have to manufacture it again. I'll keep you updated how this evolves...


----------



## snef

Watercool at CES2018

working on the tubing and loop today

again Thanks To Watercool to be parts of the project









bad photo quality, cant wait to make a real photoshoot


----------



## jarble

My shipping label just got created







I am stoked to finally get this build back on track and off my desk


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> My shipping label just got created
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am stoked to finally get this build back on track and off my desk


Same here









18th delivery date in my case.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> Same here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 18th delivery date in my case.


Fingers crossed that shipping is kind and we dont have any delays







but I think we are on the home stretch now


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'm excited for you guys! I hope to see some pictures very soon!


----------



## trnewb

@Watercool-Jakob Are all Copper-Nickel blocks shipped already? I ordered mine on the 5th to get that tasty preorder-discount but haven't gotten a shipping notice yet. Would be amazing if it arrived before Xmas


----------



## The L33t

Mine got the label for FedEx printed yesterday but from the tracking it seems it has yet to be picked up.

They're probably trying to ship them all together in one go or something like that









Christmas time is a bit hectic for all vendors and shipping biz. Delays are to be expected.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Are all Copper-Nickel blocks shipped already? I ordered mine on the 5th to get that tasty preorder-discount but haven't gotten a shipping notice yet. Would be amazing if it arrived before Xmas


We rushed the copper parts to the plating shop in several batches, as soon as one box was full, we shipped it there. So, they sent us back the plated parts in several shipments, too. That's why we ran out of plated tops yesterday. We received new plated tops today, and continue to assemble the last few Full Nickel TR4s now. They'll ship today or tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> Mine got the label for FedEx printed yesterday but from the tracking it seems it has yet to be picked up.
> 
> They're probably trying to ship them all together in one go or something like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Christmas time is a bit hectic for all vendors and shipping biz. Delays are to be expected.


It always depends on timing... The FedEx Driver comes to pick up the cargo at our shop somewhere between 2pm and 6pm, depending on his route and workload (that's also true for all other shipping companies). He was rather early yesterday, so your order was probably packed and finished after his pick-up yesterday. Additionally, those tracking info usually is correct-ish within a 12hour timeframe. Sometimes, items that had been picked at our shop don't show up in the tracking until the next day. Personally, I'd recommend taking all tracking info with a grain of salt, they give you an overall estimation of the shipping process, but they are rarely as exactly correct as they seem to be...

Regarding the Acrylic TR blocks: we got good news from the plating company! They could solve the problem with their anodizing chemicals, and sent us the first batch of Aluminum front plates! So the acrylic version TR blocks should also start to ship ~end of this week! YAY!

Additionally, the vrm waterblocks for APEX and Zenith can also be ordered from our store! (Please note: only the Apex copper block is the right picture, all the other pictures are placeholders. But the general look is the same as the placeholder.) And the nickel blocks are (you guessed it) on their way to the plating company. We HOPE to get them back next week, because they are closed from Dec22nd till January 2nd. So it MIGHT be that the nickel plated vrm blocks might not make it this year...

Busy weeks at the Watercool warehouse, I can tell ya!


----------



## tiefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Additionally, the vrm waterblocks for APEX and Zenith can also be ordered from our store! (Please note: only the Apex copper block is the right picture, all the other pictures are placeholders. But the general look is the same as the placeholder.) And the nickel blocks are (you guessed it) on their way to the plating company. We HOPE to get them back next week, because they are closed from Dec22nd till January 2nd. So it MIGHT be that the nickel plated vrm blocks might not make it this year...
> 
> Busy weeks at the Watercool warehouse, I can tell ya!


damm those are the Rampage VI Apex! I was thinking it was the Maximus X APEX VRM blocks...damm I was ready to order


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> It always depends on timing... The FedEx Driver comes to pick up the cargo at our shop somewhere between 2pm and 6pm, depending on his route and workload (that's also true for all other shipping companies). He was rather early yesterday, so your order was probably packed and finished after his pick-up yesterday. Additionally, those tracking info usually is correct-ish within a 12hour timeframe. Sometimes, items that had been picked at our shop don't show up in the tracking until the next day. Personally, I'd recommend taking all tracking info with a grain of salt, they give you an overall estimation of the shipping process, but they are rarely as exactly correct as they seem to be...
> 
> Additionally, the vrm waterblocks for APEX and Zenith can also be ordered from our store! (Please note: only the Apex copper block is the right picture, all the other pictures are placeholders. But the general look is the same as the placeholder.) And the nickel blocks are (you guessed it) on their way to the plating company. We HOPE to get them back next week, because they are closed from Dec22nd till January 2nd. So it MIGHT be that the nickel plated vrm blocks might not make it this year...
> 
> Busy weeks at the Watercool warehouse, I can tell ya!


Just got my pickup notice from FedEx









That Zenith block just got my head spinning.

Had those been available when I ordered all my stuff I would have picked one up definitely... That amount € would have made my shipping free too lol so... would have been just about perfect. Just missed it damnit!

Cannot justify ordering just one part :/

Maybe next time...


----------



## DarkK3y

I´m so hyped about my new Watercool Waterblocks.
The
- TR4 ACRYL NICKEL-BLACK Heatkiller
and now the
- Zenith Extreme HEATKILLER DARK ACRYL Ni








I hope they will be shipped soon.

Cant wait to build it with the VUE Mix from Primochill















Love the Heatkiller Products.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> I concur early testing showing me about the same temps. If it wasn't such a pain to do i would pull
> the metal divider out and see if that has any effect. Here a screen shot on hw64. Note the peak temp u
> see was done while mining the gpu and running cinebench 4 times in rapid order. This is a 1920x set
> at 4.05 gigs at 1.3ish volts.


Has anyone else done any comparisons between the Heatkiller Copper and the XSPC TR4 blocks? Curious how they perform head to head.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We rushed the copper parts to the plating shop in several batches, as soon as one box was full, we shipped it there. So, they sent us back the plated parts in several shipments, too. That's why we ran out of plated tops yesterday. We received new plated tops today, and continue to assemble the last few Full Nickel TR4s now. They'll ship today or tomorrow.
> It always depends on timing... The FedEx Driver comes to pick up the cargo at our shop somewhere between 2pm and 6pm, depending on his route and workload (that's also true for all other shipping companies). He was rather early yesterday, so your order was probably packed and finished after his pick-up yesterday. Additionally, those tracking info usually is correct-ish within a 12hour timeframe. Sometimes, items that had been picked at our shop don't show up in the tracking until the next day. Personally, I'd recommend taking all tracking info with a grain of salt, they give you an overall estimation of the shipping process, but they are rarely as exactly correct as they seem to be...
> 
> Regarding the Acrylic TR blocks: we got good news from the plating company! They could solve the problem with their anodizing chemicals, and sent us the first batch of Aluminum front plates! So the acrylic version TR blocks should also start to ship ~end of this week! YAY!
> 
> Additionally, the vrm waterblocks for APEX and Zenith can also be ordered from our store! (Please note: only the Apex copper block is the right picture, all the other pictures are placeholders. But the general look is the same as the placeholder.) And the nickel blocks are (you guessed it) on their way to the plating company. We HOPE to get them back next week, because they are closed from Dec22nd till January 2nd. So it MIGHT be that the nickel plated vrm blocks might not make it this year...
> 
> Busy weeks at the Watercool warehouse, I can tell ya!


Glad things are starting to go your way







.
I dont think I am going to pre order the vrm block but I may snag one after release


----------



## LiquidHaus

Awesome news about the acrylic black variant blocks!

and EPIC news about the Zenith blocks!

Jakob....this is wonderful.


----------



## iamjanco

Schwarzer Freitag?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Additionally, the vrm waterblocks for APEX and Zenith can also be ordered from our store!
> 
> Busy weeks at the Watercool warehouse, I can tell ya!


Great stuff, Jakob! Still, would have loved to see vrm blocks for the RVIE.


----------



## fx3861

Will i get a notification if my items has already been shipped out via international letters?


----------



## Mega Man

subbing


----------



## LiquidHaus

soo close I can taste it


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Will i get a notification if my items has already been shipped out via international letters?


No, letter shipping is without tracking inforamtion. If you are unsure if it shipped at all, please send me a PM with your order number and I'll find out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Schwarzer Freitag?
> Great stuff, Jakob! Still, would have loved to see vrm blocks for the RVIE.


Well, we are setting up our database to start developing a universal/modular VRM block that shall fit ALL THE MOTHERBOARDZZ!!!! We still need help for this, so if you could send us some pics (see link), it would be awesome!


----------



## Bogga

Hey Jakob!

Thanks for the quick help last time we spoke... Sorry for spamming you guys, but I was in a bit of a hurry! Got the project complete in time for DHW


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Hey Jakob!
> 
> Thanks for the quick help last time we spoke... Sorry for spamming you guys, but I was in a bit of a hurry! Got the project complete in time for DHW


Hey Bogga,
no worries, we want satisfied customers and are happy to go the extra mile for that! I saw some pics of your build on instagram and your facebook page, congratulations, man!


----------



## frostbite

May have been asked before but I'm not going to read all the posts,

I'm looking to get a new cpu block, possibly a IV but I want to know what the difference is between a basic and a pro block

It must be nickel plated and can have any top

Thanks


----------



## elkwood

Just thought i give a update. I reset the block 2 more times before i got a result i was happy with. Its way way
cooler then what i had going before. My tdie hovers in the mid 40's.

The following screen shot is my system under a reasonable load for 8 hours cpu/gpu mining. The cpu i have running
at 4.075 at 1.3ish volts. 3200 mem speed at 14cas.



Just for fun i played with cpuz. Their benchmark don't really stress out the system much.

https://valid.x86.fr/gu5m2i


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Just thought i give a update. I reset the block 2 more times before i got a result i was happy with. Its way way
> cooler then what i had going before. My tdie hovers in the mid 40's.
> 
> The following screen shot is my system under a reasonable load for 8 hours cpu/gpu mining. The cpu i have running
> at 4.075 at 1.3ish volts. 3200 mem speed at 14cas.
> 
> 
> 
> Just for fun i played with cpuz. Their benchmark don't really stress out the system much.
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/gu5m2i


Thanks for the update







. What would you say caused the performance change? Better paste application or some other factor?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Just thought i give a update. I reset the block 2 more times before i got a result i was happy with. Its way way
> cooler then what i had going before. My tdie hovers in the mid 40's.
> 
> The following screen shot is my system under a reasonable load for 8 hours cpu/gpu mining. The cpu i have running
> at 4.075 at 1.3ish volts. 3200 mem speed at 14cas.
> 
> 
> 
> Just for fun i played with cpuz. Their benchmark don't really stress out the system much.
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/gu5m2i


That's kinda warm that you hit 80c on the 12 core.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> That's kinda warm that you hit 80c on the 12 core.


His tDie is 52.3C, which is VERY much within reason.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> His tDie is 52.3C, which is VERY much within reason.


AH my bad saw the wrong line lol.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Schwarzer Freitag?
> Great stuff, Jakob! Still, would have loved to see vrm blocks for the RVIE.


I wonder if the Apex VRM block would fit on the Rampage VI Extreme?

The Bitspower mono blocks show to be compatible with both the Apex and the Rampage VI Extreme.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I wonder if the Apex VRM block would fit on the Rampage VI Extreme?
> 
> The Bitspower mono blocks show to be compatible with both the Apex and the Rampage VI Extreme.


As is the monoblock EK made for the RVIE, good point; though you might still have to do something about the heatsink on the 10g chip.


----------



## RizzayDJ

Proud owner of a new 1080ti block.

Love the look of the LED. Just might have to change it out for RGB though.

Jakob can you tell me whether the white of the RGB led is the same color spectrum as the white only led? Are there any pictures that compare the two? The white only in my photo is a little bluish/purplish compared to the other Darkside LED's in my build. Hoping the RBG could be color matched a little better.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> As is the monoblock EK made for the RVIE, good point; though you might still have to do something about the heatsink on the 10g chip.


the VRMs on the Zenith, R6 and R6 Apex all essentially have the same VRM location.

which means - for the Heatkiller VRM block - anything on or near the I/O doesn't matter...that would include the 10g chip.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RizzayDJ*
> 
> Proud owner of a new 1080ti block.
> 
> Love the look of the LED. Just might have to change it out for RGB though.
> 
> Jakob can you tell me whether the white of the RGB led is the same color spectrum as the white only led? Are there any pictures that compare the two? The white only in my photo is a little bluish/purplish compared to the other Darkside LED's in my build. Hoping the RBG could be color matched a little better.


I can answer this as I have the RGB strip in my 1080 FTW block. The white is unfortunately not very white. it's still very purple even when selected to pure white. This can be fixed though, with a different company LED strip. You can find cut to length strips that you can wire and even sleeve yourself. I did something close to that, and had wired them to work with my motherboard, rather than the RGB port on the graphics card itself.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> the VRMs on the Zenith, R6 and R6 Apex all essentially have the same VRM location.
> 
> which means - for the Heatkiller VRM block - anything on or near the I/O doesn't matter...that would include the 10g chip.


Understood. I was referring more to any potential need for cooling the 10g Aquantia chip located under the plastic shield covering the I/O section of the board. If using 10g, there are a number of ways besides the use of its oem heatsink to mitigate the heat that chip might generate.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Understood. I was referring more to any potential need for cooling the 10g Aquantia chip located under the plastic shield covering the I/O section of the board. If using 10g, there are a number of ways besides the use of its oem heatsink to mitigate the heat that chip might generate.


Is there any sort of active cooling under the I/O of that board? even passive? or is it all aesthetics.

The Zenith at least has the active fan and heatsink, but the 10g that we have is the add in card that has it's own substantial heatsink on it.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Is there any sort of active cooling under the I/O of that board? even passive? or is it all aesthetics.
> 
> The Zenith at least has the active fan and heatsink, but the 10g that we have is the add in card that has it's own substantial heatsink on it.


The heatpipe that exits from the vrm heatsink is connected to a heatsink that sits atop that chip under the shield. No oem fan, just passive heatsink cooling.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> The heatpipe that exits from the vrm heatsink is connected to a heatsink that sits atop that chip under the shield. No oem fan, just passive heatsink cooling.


being that the heatpipe was connected to the VRM heatsink, and that with x299, the VRMs get really hot with the proc, I'd like to think the 10g chip will be alright with the heatpipe cut and with it's own heat sink, not sharing the heat soak with the VRMs.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> being that the heatpipe was connected to the VRM heatsink, and that with x299, the VRMs get really hot with the proc, I'd like to think the 10g chip will be alright with the heatpipe cut and with it's own heat sink, not sharing the heat soak with the VRMs.


Agreed, that is one of the available ways to deal with the situation, especially if 10g isn't used. For users who don't want to cut/disassemble the combined heatsink assy, there's also the possibility of using a different heatsink on the Aquantia chip, e.g., like (or something similar to) the one EK currently provides with its RVIE monoblock kit.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Agreed, that is one of the available ways to deal with the situation, especially if 10g isn't used. For users who don't want to cut/disassemble the combined heatsink assy, there's also the possibility of using a different heatsink on the Aquantia chip, e.g., like (or something similar to) the one EK currently provides with its RVIE monoblock kit.


I went to EK's website to have a look at that heatsink you're referring to but I can't seem to find it. You mind posting a picture of it?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I went to EK's website to have a look at that heatsink you're referring to but I can't seem to find it. You mind posting a picture of it?


I don't have a photo of it readily available, but it is illustrated on the second page of EK's installation instructions:



EK doesn't sell the heatsink separately from the monoblock, at least not yet.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I don't have a photo of it readily available, but it is illustrated on the second page of EK's installation instructions:
> 
> 
> 
> EK doesn't sell the heatsink separately from the monoblock, at least not yet.


Interesting. It looks as though you might be able to get away with an Enzotech copper heat sink if you'd be unlucky in acquiring one of those from EK by itself.

For example:


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Interesting. It looks as though you might be able to get away with an Enzotech copper heat sink if you'd be unlucky in acquiring one of those from EK by itself.
> 
> For example:


Yup, I already have a couple of boxes of the same exact heat sinks. They come in very handy.


----------



## elkwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Thanks for the update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What would you say caused the performance change? Better paste application or some other factor?


I believe it was a better application.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> May have been asked before but I'm not going to read all the posts,
> 
> I'm looking to get a new cpu block, possibly a IV but I want to know what the difference is between a basic and a pro block
> 
> It must be nickel plated and can have any top
> 
> Thanks


The BASIC block comes with 49 fins in its coldplate, the PRO with 78. As one would assume, this comes with slightly better flow rate, but slightly worse thermal performance (see this test by german reviewers HardwareMax, for example). Also, the BASIC is our budget version. That's why there is no nickel plated version. The nickel plating would add to the overall price, which would sort of contradict the budget pricing point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elkwood*
> 
> Just thought i give a update. I reset the block 2 more times before i got a result i was happy with. Its way way
> cooler then what i had going before. My tdie hovers in the mid 40's.
> 
> The following screen shot is my system under a reasonable load for 8 hours cpu/gpu mining. The cpu i have running
> at 4.075 at 1.3ish volts. 3200 mem speed at 14cas.
> 
> 
> 
> Just for fun i played with cpuz. Their benchmark don't really stress out the system much.
> 
> https://valid.x86.fr/gu5m2i


Thanks for sharing. I like seeing those numbers








Although, I gotta admit that AMD's weird 27°C synthetical offset mechanism for Tctl always scares me in the first glimpse









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I wonder if the Apex VRM block would fit on the Rampage VI Extreme?
> 
> The Bitspower mono blocks show to be compatible with both the Apex and the Rampage VI Extreme.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> As is the monoblock EK made for the RVIE, good point; though you might still have to do something about the heatsink on the 10g chip.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> the VRMs on the Zenith, R6 and R6 Apex all essentially have the same VRM location.
> 
> which means - for the Heatkiller VRM block - anything on or near the I/O doesn't matter...that would include the 10g chip.


Thanks for bringing this to our attention! We actually weren't aware of this! We'll try to verify this by our own sources soon!
Regarding the single g10 chip under the I/O Shield of the Extreme: we do manufacture our own passive heatsinks. They are targeted as supply for our universal GPU blocks, that's why they are only 6mm high. We could, of course, pack one of those suckers with the vrm block







Thanks for the input, folks! Very appreciated!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RizzayDJ*
> 
> Proud owner of a new 1080ti block.
> 
> Love the look of the LED. Just might have to change it out for RGB though.
> 
> Jakob can you tell me whether the white of the RGB led is the same color spectrum as the white only led? Are there any pictures that compare the two? The white only in my photo is a little bluish/purplish compared to the other Darkside LED's in my build. Hoping the RBG could be color matched a little better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I can answer this as I have the RGB strip in my 1080 FTW block. The white is unfortunately not very white. it's still very purple even when selected to pure white. This can be fixed though, with a different company LED strip. You can find cut to length strips that you can wire and even sleeve yourself. I did something close to that, and had wired them to work with my motherboard, rather than the RGB port on the graphics card itself.


Thanks for answering, but that's not entirely correct. The strip in the FTW block and the new, separately sold RGB strips are different. The older ones (including the FTW ones) had a 10mm wide PCB which made them incompatible with the TUBEs. That's why we researched a lot and tried many different LED manufacturers and finally found someone who can produce RGB LEDs on 8mm PCB.
Nevertheless, we tested multiple different LED strip manufacturers, and with a normal RGB LED, you will never get a "true" white. The white is always just the mixture of Red, Green, and Blue, obviously. That's only possible with RGBW LEDs.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for bringing this to our attention! We actually weren't aware of this! We'll try to verify this by our own sources soon!
> Regarding the single g10 chip under the I/O Shield of the Extreme: we do manufacture our own passive heatsinks. They are targeted as supply for our universal GPU blocks, that's why they are only 6mm high. We could, of course, pack one of those suckers with the vrm block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input, folks! Very appreciated!


Those heatsinks are pretty much similar in size to the heat sinks made by *Enzotech* and would probably work for someone who wasn't going to use 10g. I'm not sure how much heat the Aquantia chip generates if 10g is used though, but I imagine that's one of the reasons the oem heatsink is much larger and bridged via a heatpipe to the vrm heatsink (allowing heat to disperse in either direction):



Could also be why EK supplies the larger heat sink they do:


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Those heatsinks are pretty much similar in size to the heat sinks made by *Enzotech* and would probably work for someone who wasn't going to use 10g. I'm not sure how much heat the Aquantia chip generates if 10g is used though, but I imagine that's one of the reasons the oem heatsink is much larger and bridged via a heatpipe to the vrm heatsink (allowing heat to disperse in either direction):
> 
> 
> 
> Could also be why EK supplies the larger heat sink they do:


"Typical Power Consumption 6 W at 10 Gbps, 4W at 5 Gbps full length 100 m Cat6a" A passive heatsink is going to cover that power dissipation without a problem


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> "Typical Power Consumption 6 W at 10 Gbps, 4W at 5 Gbps full length 100 m Cat6a" A passive heatsink is going to cover that power dissipation without a problem


Thanks for that. It does make me wonder a bit about why Asus added the heatpipe connection from the VRM heatsink to the Aquantia heatsink, as well as why they used such a large heatsink on the Aquantia. Perhaps additional cooling for the VRM?

In any event I suspect adding a block (sole VRM, monoblock, or whatever) provides sufficient VRM cooling, at least within the constraints of just how much power can be pushed through the VRM before the eps wires start to fry/contacts on the CPU burn off.


----------



## ProRules




----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> "Typical Power Consumption 6 W at 10 Gbps, 4W at 5 Gbps full length 100 m Cat6a" A passive heatsink is going to cover that power dissipation without a problem


Thanks for looking it up









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks for that. It does make me wonder a bit about why Asus added the heatpipe connection from the VRM heatsink to the Aquantia heatsink, as well as why they used such a large heatsink on the Aquantia. Perhaps additional cooling for the VRM?


Exactly. The vrm heatsink is way to small and extremely inefficiently structured. So the second heatsinks main function is to eat away all that additional heat. With the X399 Zenith, there's also that second part under the I/O shield, which isn't connected to ANYTHING on the board. It's just there to help out that teeny tiny aluminum ingot on the vrms... In the last ~3 years, the only vrm heatsink that actually deserves its name and is actually functional would be the 



. A rare example where the mainstream designers actually valued "function" over "aesthetics"...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*


You cut that yoursef? GREAT JOB! WHat tools did you use? I'm thinking about doing something similar to my Fractal Design S. It's either this or this bracket...


----------



## ProRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for looking it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. The vrm heatsink is way to small and extremely inefficiently structured. So the second heatsinks main function is to eat away all that additional heat. With the X399 Zenith, there's also that second part under the I/O shield, which isn't connected to ANYTHING on the board. It's just there to help out that teeny tiny aluminum ingot on the vrms... In the last ~3 years, the only vrm heatsink that actually deserves its name and is actually functional would be the
> 
> 
> 
> . A rare example where the mainstream designers actually valued "function" over "aesthetics"...
> You cut that yoursef? GREAT JOB! WHat tools did you use? I'm thinking about doing something similar to my Fractal Design S. It's either this or this bracket...


Hey Jakob ^^
Thanks for your reply man! thats so nice to hear.
It was hand cut by a disk cutter.
Me and my fella modders are making a very big project. (we call our team Xmodz, biggest in my country but we are realy looking forward to extending and sharing builds worldwide)
To be honest, i have just openned a new thread like a moment ago, i would realy appericiate it if you take a look.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1644104/not-sponsored-xmodz-project-hexoblood


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for looking it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. The vrm heatsink is way to small and extremely inefficiently structured. So the second heatsinks main function is to eat away all that additional heat. With the X399 Zenith, there's also that second part under the I/O shield, which isn't connected to ANYTHING on the board. It's just there to help out that teeny tiny aluminum ingot on the vrms... In the last ~3 years, the only vrm heatsink that actually deserves its name and is actually functional would be the
> 
> 
> 
> . A rare example where the mainstream designers actually valued "function" over "aesthetics"...
> You cut that yoursef? GREAT JOB! WHat tools did you use? I'm thinking about doing something similar to my Fractal Design S. It's either this or this bracket...


No problem







I feel I should add the boilerplate that I only grabbed this off their product page so specific applications may deviate from their marketing material (I have spent too much time around the legal team this week and they are rubbing off on me







). I could not agree more on the vrm trend. Even the WS boards from asus have taken a form over function in the last few iterations (I own the x58 and x79 and they have well designed heatsinks) the current x299 WS "sage" board continues the trend putting solid caps over perfectly good finned heatsinks









In other news I "think" my threadripper block cleared customs today


----------



## The L33t

The big boy is here:


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> The big boy is here:


Got mine in as well love how heavy it is.... really gives it a quality feel. My excitement has been tempered by some very weird bugs in my system but once I can boot with more than eight threads enabled I will give my full impressions


----------



## Paprika

Did you guys receive shipping information and tracking on your orders?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Did you guys receive shipping information and tracking on your orders?


I did although there was an error I need to bring up with @Watercool-Jakob the package was missing the street number... thankfully Fedex bro had my back and called me to see if it was mine as I tend to be the only one on our road that orders internationally


----------



## Paprika

Unfortunately I've yet to receive any tracking number or confirmation of shipment.









Also for the guys out there with blocks, could you do some measurements for me?


From the arrows, mirroring on each side. So the length of the flat piece of metal in total, and then the total length including the slanted sides. Also the width if possible?














I'll be forever grateful.


----------



## ProRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Did you guys receive shipping information and tracking on your orders?


I definetly did get.
Shipping was extremely fast.
But it should depend on your shipping method.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> I definetly did get.
> Shipping was extremely fast.
> But it should depend on your shipping method.


Fedex International Economy, so it should have a tracking number.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Fedex International Economy, so it should have a tracking number.


Yeah shoot Jakob a PM he should be able to get it sorted


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> The big boy is here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can't WAIT to see what you'll do with it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> Got mine in as well love how heavy it is.... really gives it a quality feel. My excitement has been tempered by some very weird bugs in my system but once I can boot with more than eight threads enabled I will give my full impressions


Awesome! And fingers crossed for your system to behave!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> Did you guys receive shipping information and tracking on your orders?


Every order that came with a valid email address is always notified by an automated email with tracking information. The Nickel blocks are, to my knowledge, all out of the door, and the nickel/acryl blocks started shipping yesterday. So maybe, your order will ship tomorrow or Wednesday (we had a TON of Nickel/acryl orders...). But you will receive an automated email with tracking info.
(Note: please also check your spam filters. Sometimes, mails from us have been reported to be flagged as spam.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> I did although there was an error I need to bring up with @Watercool-Jakob the package was missing the street number... thankfully Fedex bro had my back and called me to see if it was mine as I tend to be the only one on our road that orders internationally


Woah. Happy that it all went well. Normally, the system automatically transfers the shipping info provided by the customer directly to the address label on the package. Could you please send me your order number? Then I'll check where that went missing.

Anything else?

...

No one?

...

Okay. It seems it's time for #nsfw Hardwareporn then








































































Oh yes Baby


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Every order that came with a valid email address is always notified by an automated email with tracking information. The Nickel blocks are, to my knowledge, all out of the door, and the nickel/acryl blocks started shipping yesterday. So maybe, your order will ship tomorrow or Wednesday (we had a TON of Nickel/acryl orders...). But you will receive an automated email with tracking info.
> (Note: please also check your spam filters. Sometimes, mails from us have been reported to be flagged as spam.)


Unfortunately nothing. I did get the order confirmation, but nothing else. My order is also marked as "Closed" in the webshop, does that mean it was sent or something else?
My block was also the pure nickel one,


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Okay. It seems it's time for #nsfw Hardwareporn then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yes Baby


AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Can't WAIT to see what you'll do with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! And fingers crossed for your system to behave!
> Every order that came with a valid email address is always notified by an automated email with tracking information. The Nickel blocks are, to my knowledge, all out of the door, and the nickel/acryl blocks started shipping yesterday. So maybe, your order will ship tomorrow or Wednesday (we had a TON of Nickel/acryl orders...). But you will receive an automated email with tracking info.
> (Note: please also check your spam filters. Sometimes, mails from us have been reported to be flagged as spam.)
> Woah. Happy that it all went well. Normally, the system automatically transfers the shipping info provided by the customer directly to the address label on the package. Could you please send me your order number? Then I'll check where that went missing.
> 
> Anything else?
> 
> ...
> 
> No one?
> 
> ...
> 
> Okay. It seems it's time for #nsfw Hardwareporn then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yes Baby


NSFW indeed







all three look sexy as hell.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Can't WAIT to see what you'll do with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! And fingers crossed for your system to behave!
> Every order that came with a valid email address is always notified by an automated email with tracking information. The Nickel blocks are, to my knowledge, all out of the door, and the nickel/acryl blocks started shipping yesterday. So maybe, your order will ship tomorrow or Wednesday (we had a TON of Nickel/acryl orders...). But you will receive an automated email with tracking info.
> (Note: please also check your spam filters. Sometimes, mails from us have been reported to be flagged as spam.)
> Woah. Happy that it all went well. Normally, the system automatically transfers the shipping info provided by the customer directly to the address label on the package. Could you please send me your order number? Then I'll check where that went missing.
> 
> Anything else?
> 
> ...
> 
> No one?
> 
> ...
> 
> Okay. It seems it's time for #nsfw Hardwareporn then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yes Baby


That copper block is just so good looking.

Any updates on when we'll see some reviewers posting their thoughts? I think you said you sent to HardOCP. Anyone else also reviewing?


----------



## ProRules

Oh wow!
Now thats what i am talking about! i realy liked the older heatkiller blocks, but those...








Also, Can you make one just like this:

But with nickel instead of black bezels?


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Oh wow!
> Now thats what i am talking about! i realy liked the older heatkiller blocks, but those...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Can you make one just like this:
> 
> But with nickel instead of black bezels?


Seconded on this.. I am extremely tempted to switch waterblocks after seeing this beauty...


----------



## snef

these block are just ..........epic

but not just AMD block are great

look at this HWLuxx Edition, a beauty










the build is ready for pick-up

cant wait to see it in Asus suite @ CES2018


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> these block are just ..........epic
> 
> but not just AMD block are great
> 
> look at this HWLuxx Edition, a beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the build is ready for pick-up
> 
> cant wait to see it in Asus suite @ CES2018


The HWLuxx and the nickel/acrylic TR4 blocks are my absolute favorites. Such beauty. Nice shot too, man!


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Oh wow!
> Now thats what i am talking about! i realy liked the older heatkiller blocks, but those...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Can you make one just like this:
> 
> But with nickel instead of black bezels?


Yes! I went with a different brand block for nickel/acryl, but I would LOVE to have a heatkiller block to match my beautiful gpu block. Make it happen Jakob!


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Can't WAIT to see what you'll do with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! And fingers crossed for your system to behave!
> Every order that came with a valid email address is always notified by an automated email with tracking information. The Nickel blocks are, to my knowledge, all out of the door, and the nickel/acryl blocks started shipping yesterday. So maybe, your order will ship tomorrow or Wednesday (we had a TON of Nickel/acryl orders...). But you will receive an automated email with tracking info.
> (Note: please also check your spam filters. Sometimes, mails from us have been reported to be flagged as spam.)
> Woah. Happy that it all went well. Normally, the system automatically transfers the shipping info provided by the customer directly to the address label on the package. Could you please send me your order number? Then I'll check where that went missing.
> 
> Anything else?
> 
> ...
> 
> No one?
> 
> ...
> 
> Okay. It seems it's time for #nsfw Hardwareporn then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yes Baby


It's the sexiest block ever!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Oh wow!
> Now thats what i am talking about! i realy liked the older heatkiller blocks, but those...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Can you make one just like this:
> 
> But with nickel instead of black bezels?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> Yes! I went with a different brand block for nickel/acryl, but I would LOVE to have a heatkiller block to match my beautiful gpu block. Make it happen Jakob!


Here is what Jakob had said to me after I had suggested that last week...

"Sadly, that's very complicated. You cannot put nickel on aluminum directly because those two metals don't bond. So you'd have to do a bonding layer on the aluminum first and then can plate that layer with nickel. We tried this extensively for our GPU backplates because people keep asking for them. The problem with the bonding layer is that it adds a structural roughness to the aluminum. Its molecules are bigger and shaped differently than the aluminum or the nickel. If you plate that with the nickel, you either have to make the nickel layer EXTREMELY thick, so that it just plasters all those roughnesses - effectively killing all the cooling capacity of the aluminum. Or you get a very uneven structured surface, which just doesn't look good."

Sorry, guys!


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Here is what Jakob had said to me after I had suggested that last week...
> 
> "Sadly, that's very complicated. You cannot put nickel on aluminum directly because those two metals don't bond. So you'd have to do a bonding layer on the aluminum first and then can plate that layer with nickel. We tried this extensively for our GPU backplates because people keep asking for them. The problem with the bonding layer is that it adds a structural roughness to the aluminum. Its molecules are bigger and shaped differently than the aluminum or the nickel. If you plate that with the nickel, you either have to make the nickel layer EXTREMELY thick, so that it just plasters all those roughnesses - effectively killing all the cooling capacity of the aluminum. Or you get a very uneven structured surface, which just doesn't look good."
> 
> Sorry, guys!


So why does it need to be aluminum? I don't think anyone is concerned about the weight, so just make it out of steel instead!


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> So why does it need to be aluminum? I don't think anyone is concerned about the weight, so just make it out of steel instead!


Steel is nowhere near as good for heat transfer as aluminum. Plus steel has the disadvantage of oxidizing, even stainless steel would oxidize with the chemicals that are used in many loops.


----------



## jarble

A nickel plated copper top/cover over the acrylic window is what people are looking for imo .... keeps the nice clean look while allowing for lights/fluid to show through. Honestly a brushed aluminum top would look nice as well.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I wonder when transparent aluminum blocks will become available?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I wonder when transparent aluminum blocks will become available?










I am not sure I am following the line of thought there. Acrylic and other plastics are much easier to work so why go to that much truble?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Steel is nowhere near as good for heat transfer as aluminum. Plus steel has the disadvantage of oxidizing, even stainless steel would oxidize with the chemicals that are used in many loops.


lol okay,

the plate that we're all referring to, has NO contact with the fluid that you're using. it's essentially a pretty cover plate that goes over the acrylic. the acrylic and nickel are the only materials touching the fluid.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure I am following the line of thought there. Acrylic and other plastics are much easier to work so why go to that much truble?


also I think he was being sarcastic. at least I hope he was.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure I am following the line of thought there. Acrylic and other plastics are much easier to work so why go to that much truble?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> lol okay,
> 
> the plate that we're all referring to, has NO contact with the fluid that you're using. it's essentially a pretty cover plate that goes over the acrylic. the acrylic and nickel are the only materials touching the fluid.
> 
> edit:
> also I think he was being sarcastic. at least I hope he was.


Not really sarcastic. SInce transparent aluminum is now a real thing I would probably be one to get a block just because...lol. I mean who wouldn't want a piece of tech in their PC that was first mentioned on Star Trek!

Sorry but I missed that first part where you were referring to just the cover plate. I saw "why not use steel in a cpu block" and reacted without reading more...lol.


----------



## D3cryp70R

Really looking forward to see some results for this nice looking block. I need to choise between this and the XSPC offering.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I wonder when transparent aluminum blocks will become available?


Beam me up bro


----------



## potato42

I was under the impression that the aluminum piece simply held down the acrylic portion of the top block. Isn't the heat spreader copper and then the acrylic on top of that?

I guess I was imagining it like the TR4 mount phantex acrylic block, where the aluminum is just cosmetic. Maybe watercool could do a brushed aluminum finish as a compromise if chrome is so difficult.


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> You cut that yoursef? GREAT JOB! WHat tools did you use? I'm thinking about doing something similar to my Fractal Design S. It's either this or this bracket...


Dremel disks for the longer lines then used the router bit to gently shave of the smaller lines.
A bit of a gentle filing for a smoother look and it's done. measuring took longer than cutting


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

I'm glad that you all like it so far! See, that's why we waited for the photographer to shoot PROPER images that represent those blocks the way they deserve it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cletus-cassidy*
> 
> Any updates on when we'll see some reviewers posting their thoughts? I think you said you sent to HardOCP. Anyone else also reviewing?


The one for [H]OCP is on it's way, HardwareMax.net is getting one, too, and that's it with reviews right now. We got a few sponsorings for Casemods/YouTube Content, but these are not people doing comparative tests (afaik). If you guys know someone who did comparative tests with a bunch of other Threadripper blocks that I am unaware of, let me know and I'll see if I can get in contact with them...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Oh wow!
> Now thats what i am talking about! i realy liked the older heatkiller blocks, but those...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, Can you make one just like this:
> 
> But with nickel instead of black bezels?


As lifeisshort117 already said, there won't be nickel plated aluminum. We could possibly do raw brushed aluminum... Also, stainless steel is not really an option: we do steel for the GPU front covers, but there it's just bending of a sheet metal. With the TR block, the front cover has depth, this part is also milled out of a solid block. Steel is SO MUCH more complicated to work with, it would take way longer (and hence, would make the overall product so much more expensive). We heard your demand and will think about a solution!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> these block are just ..........epic
> 
> but not just AMD block are great
> 
> look at this HWLuxx Edition, a beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the build is ready for pick-up
> 
> cant wait to see it in Asus suite @ CES2018


Oh, nice tease, Snef! Can't wait to see more of it, either!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Steel is nowhere near as good for heat transfer as aluminum. Plus steel has the disadvantage of oxidizing, even stainless steel would oxidize with the chemicals that are used in many loops.


We take much pride in the fact that Watercool is the ONLY company in the whole industry that NEVER went for the cheap alternative and put Aluminum in the water loop. We used Copper from Day One when it all started out of Rico's Dad's garage (which was way back in 1998), and ner cut the corner when it comes to materials. We will NEVER put aluminum in contact with the water loop in consumer products!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble*


Thanks for the nice pics! Let's see this beast installed









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> I was under the impression that the aluminum piece simply held down the acrylic portion of the top block. Isn't the heat spreader copper and then the acrylic on top of that?


That is correct. The aluminum is only there for aesthetic/cosmetic reasons and has no contact to the fluid. Yes, the coldplate is nickel plated copper.


----------



## ProRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> As lifeisshort117 already said, there won't be nickel plated aluminum. We could possibly do raw brushed aluminum... Also, stainless steel is not really an option: we do steel for the GPU front covers, but there it's just bending of a sheet metal. With the TR block, the front cover has depth, this part is also milled out of a solid block. Steel is SO MUCH more complicated to work with, it would take way longer (and hence, would make the overall product so much more expensive). We heard your demand and will think about a solution!


Maybe a thinner layer of nickel plated copper, which will be ontop of an easier to work with material?
Would look legendary.


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I wonder when transparent aluminum blocks will become available?


we will have transparent aluminum blocks when we have diamond/copper hybrid radiators









on a side note, how are the new radiators going? any pictures you can share? its almost christmas and i have been pretty good


----------



## nycgtr

Seeing pics of the nickel makes me think it's a better choice than the black acrylic. LORDY I DONT KNOW WHAT TO CHOOSE!!! but there is no matching vrm.


----------



## trnewb

Here's hoping that they'll release matching VRM waterblocks. I don't understand why they only have ones with acrylic tops for the Zenith..


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Seeing pics of the nickel makes me think it's a better choice than the black acrylic. LORDY I DONT KNOW WHAT TO CHOOSE!!! but there is no matching vrm.


According to Jakob, I should be able to get a plexi without the aluminum anodized and with a copper base. I'm planning to take the aluminum to get it anodized gold and then hydro dip a pattern on the gold. Maybe you could do something equally crazy?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Seeing pics of the nickel makes me think it's a better choice than the black acrylic. LORDY I DONT KNOW WHAT TO CHOOSE!!! but there is no matching vrm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Here's hoping that they'll release matching VRM waterblocks. I don't understand why they only have ones with acrylic tops for the Zenith..


I understand what you guys are saying about the non matching style VRM block. But I'm trying to come up with ways to make the VRM block somewhat match the black/acrylic version.

Granted the pics you guys are seeing on their website are of the Rampage V I believe, so they might look different.

But I was thinking of something like this



Forgive my terrible work computer MS paint mockup but you get the idea.

I'm trying to think of a way to cover the acrylic up that doesn't have fluid passing it through it, the same way the acrylic TR block is.


----------



## potato42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Here's hoping that they'll release matching VRM waterblocks. I don't understand why they only have ones with acrylic tops for the Zenith..


I agree. I'd buy a nickel plated one but I don't want another acrylic top.


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying about the non matching style VRM block. But I'm trying to come up with ways to make the VRM block somewhat match the black/acrylic version.
> 
> Granted the pics you guys are seeing on their website are of the Rampage V I believe, so they might look different.
> 
> But I was thinking of something like this
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive my terrible work computer MS paint mockup but you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to think of a way to cover the acrylic up that doesn't have fluid passing it through it, the same way the acrylic TR block is.


Worst case you could mask it off and paint it. Wouldn't be too bad.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> on a side note, how are the new radiators going? any pictures you can share? its almost christmas and i have been pretty good


Nope. Current schedule: have prototypes done in the ~first week of Januaray, then EXTENSIVE testing. And I mean: at least one month daily duty, with different kinds of work cycles etc. From here, the schedule gets fuzzy: ~February evaluation, march production, product release April-ish? So unfortunately, we are FAR away from product pictures as of now...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Here's hoping that they'll release matching VRM waterblocks. I don't understand why they only have ones with acrylic tops for the Zenith..


We also had POM tops on previous MB-X blocks. They always sold WAY worse than the plexi tops. So we decided to pass on those this time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I understand what you guys are saying about the non matching style VRM block. But I'm trying to come up with ways to make the VRM block somewhat match the black/acrylic version.


Well, in my opinion, both nickel options will go pretty well with the Acryl/black TR4 block...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *potato42*
> 
> I agree. I'd buy a nickel plated one but I don't want another acrylic top.


You guys are killing me









On a sidenote: I still owe you one pic: Our homage to AMD's brand color and their RedTeam+ scheme. Also works really well in ROG themed builds: The Acryl/Nickel RED:


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well, in my opinion, both nickel options will go pretty well with the Acryl/black TR4 block...
> You guys are killing me


hahahaha.

I was starting to get that feeling that you'd read all these posts and be like man... no one is ever happy!

but Jakob, you gotta remember those VRM block photos look to be from the Rampage V, not the actual Zenith..


----------



## VileLasagna

Hmmm... subbing to keep an eye out for dem VRM blocks =3


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Nope. Current schedule: have prototypes done in the ~first week of Januaray, then EXTENSIVE testing. And I mean: at least one month daily duty, with different kinds of work cycles etc. From here, the schedule gets fuzzy: ~February evaluation, march production, product release April-ish? So unfortunately, we are FAR away from product pictures as of now...
> We also had POM tops on previous MB-X blocks. They always sold WAY worse than the plexi tops. So we decided to pass on those this time.
> Well, in my opinion, both nickel options will go pretty well with the Acryl/black TR4 block...
> You guys are killing me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a sidenote: I still owe you one pic: Our homage to AMD's brand color and their RedTeam+ scheme. Also works really well in ROG themed builds: The Acryl/Nickel RED:


Is there going to be an installation diagram for the vrm block available online? I need to know if I need to take my board out of the case lol. I already have the monoblock on it so the stock stuff is already gone. Taking my board outta the case would require removing the top of my chassis frame ROFL.


----------



## trnewb

Is anybody else here from the pre-order batch still waiting for their Nickel HeatKiller TR4 waterblock? According to Watercool's shop they are in stock, but they're not shipping it







I asked @Watercool-Jakob in a PM last week and it was supposed to ship early this week - but now it's Thursday and still no shipping notice. I asked again this week but didn't get a reply so far.
I'am super pissed right now. Something just ain't right here.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> but Jakob, you gotta remember those VRM block photos look to be from the Rampage V, not the actual Zenith..


That is correct. The pics of the copper blocksd are the actual correct blocks, the nickel blocks for APEX/Zenith are at the plating company right now. We don't have a single nickel plated block yet ourselves, so we can't make pics of it







As soon as the first batch arrives back from plating, we'll change the pics, switch the "in stock" - button and let you know. Probably first week of January.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> Hmmm... subbing to keep an eye out for dem VRM blocks =3


Look no more, they can be ordered through the shop:Zenith and Apex.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Is there going to be an installation diagram for the vrm block available online? I need to know if I need to take my board out of the case lol. I already have the monoblock on it so the stock stuff is already gone. Taking my board outta the case would require removing the top of my chassis frame ROFL.


Depends on the mainboard tray cutout. You'll have to screw the blocks in from the backside of the mainboard. We also re-use the stock backplates for these blocks to spread the pressure more evenly. I'd say it's easier to do with the mainboard out of the case, but you can of course try your luck.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Is anybody else here from the pre-order batch still waiting for their Nickel HeatKiller TR4 waterblock? According to Watercool's shop they are in stock, but they're not shipping it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked @Watercool-Jakob in a PM last week and it was supposed to ship early this week - but now it's Thursday and still no shipping notice. I asked again this week but didn't get a reply so far.
> I'am super pissed right now. Something just ain't right here.


Err. Sorry, lost track of your second request. I'll look into it. My Apologies!


----------



## VileLasagna

Good bye money..... You guys really need one or two more pricing tiers for delivery, though.... Other than that... THE HYPE IS REAL


----------



## lkramer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Is anybody else here from the pre-order batch still waiting for their Nickel HeatKiller TR4 waterblock? According to Watercool's shop they are in stock, but they're not shipping it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked @Watercool-Jakob in a PM last week and it was supposed to ship early this week - but now it's Thursday and still no shipping notice. I asked again this week but didn't get a reply so far.
> I'am super pissed right now. Something just ain't right here.


I am waiting for my pre-ordered Nickel TR4 waterblock to ship as well. I pre-ordered it on 5 December.

When did you pre-order? Out of curiosity, what is your order number? Mine is 7625.


----------



## trnewb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lkramer*
> 
> I am waiting for my pre-ordered Nickel TR4 waterblock to ship as well. I pre-ordered it on 5 December.
> 
> When did you pre-order? Out of curiosity, what is your order number? Mine is 7625.


I also pre-ordered on December 5th and the order number is 7611. What irks me is that they're "In stock" since roughly a week and if that's true would've been on time to rework my loop over the Christmas holiday...


----------



## lkramer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> I also pre-ordered on December 5th and the order number is 7611. What irks me is that they're "In stock" since roughly a week and if that's true would've been on time to rework my loop over the Christmas holiday...


Maybe our orders fell through the cracks _(extremely unlikely)_. Or, maybe, there is too many orders before ours and they have not been able to process our orders yet due to unplanned staff illness and vacation time. The third possibility is the plater had an issue with the second batch which is causing another delay.

In any case, Jakob will hopefully provide us with some insight on our orders.

I have considered cancelling my pre-order and ordering the block again (without the pre-order discount). I would do that if it would help me to get the block sooner.

Did you register on their site during the check out process or did you check out as a guest?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> I also pre-ordered on December 5th and the order number is 7611. What irks me is that they're "In stock" since roughly a week and if that's true would've been on time to rework my loop over the Christmas holiday...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lkramer*
> 
> Maybe our orders fell through the cracks _(extremely unlikely)_. Or, maybe, there is too many orders before ours and they have not been able to process our orders yet due to unplanned staff illness and vacation time. The third possibility is the plater had an issue with the second batch which is causing another delay.
> 
> In any case, Jakob will hopefully provide us with some insight on our orders.


We ran out of nickel plated tops and won't receive a new batch from the plating company before christmas. I am very sorry to say, but we will not be able to completely ship your orders this year. They will be pushed back till early January.

I also took the block in question out of stock in the shop script.

As a small compensation, all I can offer you right now is a 10% discount code, valid for all items in one basket. I already sent both of you a PM. If there's anybody else waiting for a NICKEL COPPER Threadripper block right now, please contact me, so I can at least give you a discount code.

We are fully aware how disappointing this is, as many of us look forward to having some free time to mod on our private PCs, just as you did. We apologize for the additional waiting time...

Edit: Spelling and a (pretty importnant) word.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I am very sorry to say, but we will [NOT] be able to complete ship your orders this year. They will be pushed back till early January.


Jakob - did you miss a word in there?


----------



## lkramer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We ran out of nickel plated tops and won't receive a new batch from the plating company before christmas. I am very sorry to say, but we will not be able to completely ship your orders this year. They will be pushed back till early January.
> 
> I also took the block in question out of stock in the shop script.
> 
> As a small compensation, all I can offer you right now is a 10% discount code, valid for all items in one basket. I already sent both of you a PM. If there's anybody else waiting for a NICKEL COPPER Threadripper block right now, please contact me, so I can at least give you a discount code.
> 
> We are fully aware how disappointing this is, as many of us look forward to having some free time to mod on our private PCs, just as you did. We apologize for the additional waiting time...
> 
> Edit: Spelling and a (pretty importnant) word.


No worries, Jakob, such is life.

I understand the holiday season is now upon us and, in my humble opinion, it can be good to step back from this hobby and spend time with family, loved ones and friends.

Anyway, I still have to wait for a custom PCB to be fabricated and assembled. I am also waiting on the fittings to arrive. In the meantime while I wait the remaining parts to arrive, I can start testing the system components, planning the loop, working on wiring, among other things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Jakob - did you miss a word in there?


Even though Jakob missed that important word, I could still understand what was meant. In full honestly, I have missed that word too.


----------



## SoMBrA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trnewb*
> 
> Is anybody else here from the pre-order batch still waiting for their Nickel HeatKiller TR4 waterblock? According to Watercool's shop they are in stock, but they're not shipping it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked @Watercool-Jakob in a PM last week and it was supposed to ship early this week - but now it's Thursday and still no shipping notice. I asked again this week but didn't get a reply so far.
> I'am super pissed right now. Something just ain't right here.


I didn't check this thread before, now I understand why I haven't received any updates on the order.
I did also pre-order, Nickel TR4.

Too bad


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Dear friends and customers,
> 
> 2017 was the most successful year in the 16 years of WATERCOOL history, and we are deeply grateful for that. Thanks to your ongoing support and love for HEATKILLER products, our staff grew by 50% in one year and we could buy new machines with which we will bring new and exciting products to you guys!
> 
> We will take a small break over the holidays to regenerate: from December 23th till January 1st, we will not ship orders or manufacture new parts. Starting January 2nd, we'll continue business operation with full power!
> 
> Your Watercool Team.


So, everything is a tad slower right now. Me personally, I will continue my routine to check in with you guys daily, but in the backoffice, at the machines, assembly, shipping, there won't be anybody until Jan 2nd.


----------



## BurritoJustice

Is there any cost effective way to get Watercool products in Australia? I want to get a Heatkiller Tube 150 D5 (plus mounting hardware) with the inlet top and I cannot find it anywhere, short of very expensive and time-consuming shipping from Europe.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BurritoJustice*
> 
> Is there any cost effective way to get Watercool products in Australia? I want to get a Heatkiller Tube 150 D5 (plus mounting hardware) with the inlet top and I cannot find it anywhere, short of very expensive and time-consuming shipping from Europe.


Well, obviously, you could order directly from us. Next, Aquatuning stocks our products, too. I don't know their shipping costs or times, though. It might seem off, but maybe TTory Systems could be a good alternative for you? They are our reseller in Korea, so maybe, the (relative) proximity will yield a better shipping price?

We are currently negotiating with a big australian online PC store, but it's not settled yet. If you're not a tight timeframe, maybe wait approx a month, and we'll have a reseller there...


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Well, obviously, you could order directly from us. Next, Aquatuning stocks our products, too. I don't know their shipping costs or times, though. It might seem off, but maybe TTory Systems could be a good alternative for you? They are our reseller in Korea, so maybe, the (relative) proximity will yield a better shipping price?
> 
> We are currently negotiating with a big australian online PC store, but it's not settled yet. If you're not a tight timeframe, maybe wait approx a month, and we'll have a reseller there...


Jacob as to my prior questions about the VRM heatsink on the zenith. I checked and I can access the 2 screws on the factory retention plate for the vrm heatsink. Just a portion of that plate is covered like 25% along the top. As I mentioned before I already have the stock vrm stuff removed so I should be fine as long as I can access the original heatsink backplate I assume?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Jacob as to my prior questions about the VRM heatsink on the zenith. I checked and I can access the 2 screws on the factory retention plate for the vrm heatsink. Just a portion of that plate is covered like 25% along the top. As I mentioned before I already have the stock vrm stuff removed so I should be fine as long as I can access the original heatsink backplate I assume?


If the additional heatsink that is located under the I/O shield is already removed, you will only need those two screws:


You will need to place the thermal pads, the water block on them, and then screw in the screws from the backside, using the stock backplate, while holding the water blöock in place on the front. I guess this might be a tricky task to do alone when it's already installed in a case.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> If the additional heatsink that is located under the I/O shield is already removed, you will only need those two screws:
> 
> 
> You will need to place the thermal pads, the water block on them, and then screw in the screws from the backside, using the stock backplate, while holding the water blöock in place on the front. I guess this might be a tricky task to do alone when it's already installed in a case.


Sweet I can access those screws. I got the EK monoblock on it right now which ofc sucks. I'll just have the wife hold it while I screw it in.







 Will these still be on track for January? Any pics available?


----------



## SoMBrA

Jakob, about the Zenith VRM Waterblock, how can I check if it's compatible with the ASUS X399 Strix Motherboard?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoMBrA*
> 
> Jakob, about the Zenith VRM Waterblock, how can I check if it's compatible with the ASUS X399 Strix Motherboard?


Honestly I think it will fit just about every asus x399 board. I believe the layout is the same across the range for the vrm area. I own the ek monoblock and it fits every asus x399. Jacob you guys should look into it. It also uses the stock bracket on the back to screw into, so the screw positions are the same.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Sweet I can access those screws. I got the EK monoblock on it right now which ofc sucks. I'll just have the wife hold it while I screw it in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will these still be on track for January? Any pics available?


*cough* Yeah, you have your wife help you "screwing". *snicker* *giggle*
Regards ETA: Cannot say, quite honestly. Both the palting company and our own shop are in hibernation this week and will pick up work on January 2nd (January 1st is a bank holiday in Germany). The nickel VRM blcoks SHOULD be one of the first things they start plating, so we SHOULD have them in first week of January, but please don't pin me down on this. Better to expect them in second week and be surprised positively









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoMBrA*
> 
> Jakob, about the Zenith VRM Waterblock, how can I check if it's compatible with the ASUS X399 Strix Motherboard?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Honestly I think it will fit just about every asus x399 board. I believe the layout is the same across the range for the vrm area. I own the ek monoblock and it fits every asus x399. Jacob you guys should look into it. It also uses the stock bracket on the back to screw into, so the screw positions are the same.


Er. Uh. Hm.

*scratches head*

Yeah we... uhm. Totally were aware of that...

...

Yes, they do look extremely similar. Visually, this should definitely work. We haven't had a physical copy of that board yet, so I cannot definitely confirm this. We will try to get a definitive confirmation asap!


----------



## Paprika




----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*


----------



## Alxz

Watercool-Jakob

I want to make some pass-through holes for my case, since they are expected to match GPU waterblocks distance, i would like to know if the design for incoming GPU waterblocks are likely to change center distances betwen inlet/outlet ports, since those have been kind of the same through the years hah.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*


WOw. Looks interesting, but complicated!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Watercool-Jakob
> 
> I want to make some pass-through holes for my case, since they are expected to match GPU waterblocks distance, i would like to know if the design for incoming GPU waterblocks are likely to change center distances betwen inlet/outlet ports, since those have been kind of the same through the years hah.


If I understand you correctly, you are referring to this terminal? We have no intention to change this. The position of the terminal on the block itself does change, however. It depends on the position of the GPU on the graphics card PCB. If the position of the chip itself is moved, the terminal moves along, too. This way, we can guarantee perfect flowpath on every card.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> WOw. Looks interesting, but complicated!
> If I understand you correctly, you are referring to this terminal? We have no intention to change this. The position of the terminal on the block itself does change, however. It depends on the position of the GPU on the graphics card PCB. If the position of the chip itself is moved, the terminal moves along, too. This way, we can guarantee perfect flowpath on every card.


Yes, that one (although i'm not sure if that one is compatible with the IV series), as long the distance between ports is the same i'll be fine hah.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Anyone know if any Stores in the US sell HEATKILLER Tube - struts 200mm - black? I'm trying to avoid paying 30+ dollars in shipping.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Anyone know if any Stores in the US sell HEATKILLER Tube - struts 200mm - black? I'm trying to avoid paying 30+ dollars in shipping.


Performance PCs has those but the black aren't currently in stock. You could get the raw aluminum (in stock with red and blue ones also) and paint them black.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Performance PCs has those but the black aren't currently in stock. You could get the raw aluminum (in stock with red and blue ones also) and paint them black.


I want to go with the Black version. I can't do any painting right now, due to the temperature outside. It would not dry, not to mention I have no where to paint them again due to the temperature outside and all the snow.


----------



## TheDarkSide

Hey everyone,

Been super happy with my Heatkiller tube D5 combo. Was a massive upgrade from my previous XSPC equivalent. However a lot of people seem to be praising singularity computers Protium reservoir combo. thought i'd check if anyone has tried both? I personally like the Heatkiller look more.


----------



## SoMBrA

Tube D5 looks like something "new", Protium reminds me of EK reservoir.
I've only heard/read good things about Singularity's craftmanship, but I think D5 is also more "compact" if that makes sense


----------



## LiquidHaus

Agreed. SC components though nicely refined in their appearance, looks just like more of the same. HK brings something new to the table in terms of aesthetics and the variance in those aesthetics will help this community flourish.


----------



## UMichHockey

Hi,

I have been trying to locate a retailer to purchase a Heatkiller IV GTX 1080 Ti water block in the Nickel and Black option. I was about to buy from Aquatuning.us but it looks like they sold out. Are there any plans to produce more?

Thanks!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Anyone know if any Stores in the US sell HEATKILLER Tube - struts 200mm - black? I'm trying to avoid paying 30+ dollars in shipping.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UMichHockey*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have been trying to locate a retailer to purchase a Heatkiller IV GTX 1080 Ti water block in the Nickel and Black option. I was about to buy from Aquatuning.us but it looks like they sold out. Are there any plans to produce more?
> 
> Thanks!


As you guys know, it's always possible to order directly from us for all parts. FedEx ships to the US in 4 days (usually runtime) for 29,95€. For small parts, such as struts, we can also offer envelope shipping by postal services (Deutsche Post and USPS, respectively), for 7,95€. Envelope shipping is uninsured, comes without tracking, and has a usual runtime of 4-10 business days, but we had reports of up to 30 days.

Other than that, we are currently negotiating enhanced terms with some resellers in the US to get better availability of our parts to you, the customers. But the final decision to place an order is with those resellers themselves. So, if you wish certain Watercool parts, your best bet is to contact https://modmymods.com/ or http://www.performance-pcs.com/ or https://www.dazmode.com/ directly and ask them for it. That way, they know what the customers want, and can order from us.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Just got my Heatkiller block for Vega (Terrible cellphone pic it dosen't do it justice ) I gotta say this is the most beautiful and well built watercooling part i've ever seen


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## LiquidHaus

time for a new sub.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Thanks for sharing your pics here, too, James! Love them! This build is going to look amazing!

*General Warning:*

We had some reports of people overtightening their screws when using the long end of the supplied allen wrench. We supplied an extra long wrench, so people who already had their graphics cards installed would be able to screw in their Heatkiller block. The wrench is long enough to reach over an installed graphics card. Unfortunately, if using the leverage of the full lenght of that wrench, you can sheer the screw off. So we put this warning into every manual now, so that people do not damage their mounting bolts (and potentially their motherboard).


----------



## ProRules

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for sharing your pics here, too, James! Love them! This build is going to look amazing!
> 
> *General Warning:*
> 
> We had some reports of people overtightening their screws when using the long end of the supplied allen wrench. We supplied an extra long wrench, so people who already had their graphics cards installed would be able to screw in their Heatkiller block. The wrench is long enough to reach over an installed graphics card. Unfortunately, if using the leverage of the full lenght of that wrench, you can sheer the screw off. So we put this warning into every manual now, so that people do not damage their mounting bolts (and potentially their motherboard).


Woops


just kidding.


----------



## Excession

There's a simple trick to getting the perfect torque every time: tighten 'til it loosens, then back a quarter turn!


----------



## VileLasagna

Pretty hyped when I got home from work yesterday!



Who's that pokemon?!?!



It's the Heatkiller VRM Block for the Zenith!!!!

It's already on the mobo and all, but have to get those pics out of the camera, took just these two with the phone


----------



## ruffhi

Was it damaged during shipping?


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Was it damaged during shipping?


No, no, nothing like that.
I posted the picture like that for comical effect, as it DID come in that box. But it was all good and proper. with tons of packing and the normal retail box inside that massive delivery one.

The only thing "wrong" with it was that it lacked installation instructions but... then again... it's not like it's particularly mysterious. I've installed it no prob. Will post more pics once I get them off the camera's SD card


----------



## The L33t

Watercool is actually the best company at packing orders from my many years of purchasing on the web, they do not kid around, very well packed and protected. Fear not!


----------



## VileLasagna

Hilariously large box aside, amazing delivery (though quite pricy for an order that was just that block).
Nicely tracked, came surprisingly fast, excessively well packed =P

Can second that. Zero worries regarding transport for anything from them


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> There's a simple trick to getting the perfect torque every time: tighten 'til it loosens, then back a quarter turn!


This makes no sense? Personally I use a Weaver Torque screwdriver for everything


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> There's a simple trick to getting the perfect torque every time: tighten 'til it loosens, then back a quarter turn!


Haha, now that's funny and a bit dangerous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> This makes no sense? Personally I use a Weaver Torque screwdriver for everything


I tighten til they stop, which really isn't that tight at all.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Personally I use a Weaver Torque screwdriver for everything


How do you gauge the correct torque values?


----------



## ruffhi

Oh, that is easy ...


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> This makes no sense?


It's a joke. Think about it for a second.


----------



## VileLasagna

Quick drive by to post promised pics of the Zenith VRM block on the board.

Got my final delivery of parts today so ended up digging through the parts pile and getting the board out.

Will be back when everything's actually hooked up and running but so far, can deffo confirm that I made the right finish choice.
Sorry for not having a Heatkiller on that1920X but these two go together like they were born for each other =3


----------



## MNMadman

Too bad they only have them for the Zenith. Won't buy an overpriced board just for the VRM block.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Too bad they only have them for the Zenith. Won't buy an overpriced board just for the VRM block.


90% chance the block will work on the Prime and Strix.

same VRM design/layout.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> It's a joke. Think about it for a second.


A smile face would have helped. I thought there was an auto correct error or brain fart moment. You are implying strip the threads then back it out 1/4 turn


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> How do you gauge the correct torque values?


I was referring to in general across all hobbies. If the manufacturer has a specified torque I use it. Otherwise you start low and work your way up till you reach what works. I originally bought the wrench for firearm assembly (My other big hobbies are real steel Firearms and Paintball)


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> A smile face would have helped. I thought there was an auto correct error or brain fart moment. You are implying strip the threads then back it out 1/4 turn


That's the joke, yeah.

I actually went back and edited it from a period to an exclamation point to make it a bit more obvious, but I guess that wasn't enough. Dry humor doesn't work well over the internet.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> A smile face would have helped. I thought there was an auto correct error or brain fart moment. You are implying strip the threads then back it out 1/4 turn
> 
> 
> 
> That's the joke, yeah.
> 
> I actually went back and edited it from a period to an exclamation point to make it a bit more obvious, but I guess that wasn't enough. Dry humor doesn't work well over the internet.
Click to expand...

Well, it certainly made me chuckle!


----------



## Alxz

Enjoying my IV so far! Now i'm waiting for next gpu gen hah.


----------



## UMichHockey

I would love to see a version of the Heatkiller IV that looks like that Threadripper block. It would make it so it matches the gpu blocks and tube and tie the whole product line together.


----------



## LiquidHaus

*crickets*

soooo.... how are ya'll doin?


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> *crickets*
> 
> soooo.... how are ya'll doin?


Actually doing plumbing the new system right now.

Sorry to Watercool that what I'm using from them is on the dark side of the motherboard tray


----------



## chibi

Shameless plug to show off my Heatkiller collection


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Shameless plug to show off my Heatkiller collection


Looks awesome chibi


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Shameless plug to show off my Heatkiller collection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! Didi you get the DimasTech frm ModMyMods? I know they had some problems a few years back and *declared bankruptcy back in 2016* (creating a number of unhappy customers), but it looks like they reorganized.

Good luck with the setup


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Nice! Didi you get the DimasTech frm ModMyMods? I know they had some problems a few years back and *declared bankruptcy back in 2016* (creating a number of unhappy customers), but it looks like they reorganized.
> 
> Good luck with the setup


Yea at the time of ordering, Modmymods had a few EasyXL's left in stock.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I saw a nice news article on your website that you are working on a universal mb vrm waterblock, how are things going with that? It would be an instant buy for me, since vrm cooling is a bit of a problem these days on motherboards, and if you change mb-s often you tend to stick to the cheaper boards with not that great vrm coolers, so the universal block would be awesome.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UMichHockey*
> 
> I would love to see a version of the Heatkiller IV that looks like that Threadripper block. It would make it so it matches the gpu blocks and tube and tie the whole product line together.


We heard that request quite often. We are thinking about how to acomplish that. Changes for an actual Heatkiller IV version in that look are rather small, actually, but it's definitely on the list for a possible future revision (ETA: The Future™







).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> Actually doing plumbing the new system right now.
> 
> Sorry to Watercool that what I'm using from them is on the dark side of the motherboard tray
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Shameless plug to show off my Heatkiller collection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for sharing to both of you! I love seeing you people build. It really makes my fingers itch, I got quite a list of things I'd want to do to my private rig, but I can't afford any downtime on it, and can't afford a secondary system, either, so I'm stuck till holidays









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I saw a nice news article on your website that you are working on a universal mb vrm waterblock, how are things going with that? It would be an instant buy for me, since vrm cooling is a bit of a problem these days on motherboards, and if you change mb-s often you tend to stick to the cheaper boards with not that great vrm coolers, so the universal block would be awesome.


Still in research phase. We are still collecting data for as many different boards that we can find to identify unifying characteristics. ETA for the actual block: second half of 2018, maybe later. The whole project is really ambitious, so we don't even know if we will succeed and have a product at the end of it AT ALL.


----------



## ITAngel

Heatkiller incoming in the near future.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UMichHockey*
> 
> I would love to see a version of the Heatkiller IV that looks like that Threadripper block. It would make it so it matches the gpu blocks and tube and tie the whole product line together.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We heard that request quite often. We are thinking about how to acomplish that. Changes for an actual Heatkiller IV version in that look are rather small, actually, but it's definitely on the list for a possible future revision (ETA: The Future™
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I honestly just want an option to have the acrylic blocks light up so they match the GPU. It'll be an instant-buy for me.


----------



## Zero4549

I'm itching for some info on the upcoming radiators optimized for medium speed fans. If the performance metrics are right, it might just be the perfect fit for my next build.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> My EK custom water cooling setup.
> *snip*


you don't have a single Heatkiller product in your rig and you post this in the Heatkiller thread.

lol.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> you don't have a single Heatkiller product in your rig and you post this in the Heatkiller thread.
> 
> lol.


Is killing the heat. Lol


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ITAngel*
> 
> Is killing the heat. Lol










This thread is for watercool high quality sexy goodness, not avg everywhere run of the mill products







lol. I think you just posted in the wrong thread.


----------



## ITAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread is for watercool high quality sexy goodness, not avg everywhere run of the mill products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol. I think you just posted in the wrong thread.


I know, I know.... They do have some nice sexy setup in here. I guess someday I will join the club but I guess for now I will just be happy with what I got.


----------



## Aenra

Don't know how i'd missed it, saw the Heatkiller 200 D5 Tube in some random pic (honestly had no clue), loved the looks of it and started checking reviews.

Man that looks like quality; and the top part? Much preferable a solution, should make filling a breeze. Was decided on an AC Aqualis, but i can honestly say i'm glad i didn't pull that trigger. Waiting for my S8 to arrive so i can measure distances (planning to have it horizontal, bottom left) but once i've got those, add another customer to the list 

On a more general note, anyone here willing to share their experience with Watercool compression fittings? Don't think we've a dedicated thread for those, do we?


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> ...anyone here willing to share their experience with Watercool compression fittings?


I am also curious about this. Was thinking about going with Bitspower fittings, but I might go with WaterCool's if I hear good things.


----------



## paskowitz

Hey @Watercool-Jakob, how we looking on the new radiators?


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> ...anyone here willing to share their experience with Watercool compression fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> I am also curious about this. Was thinking about going with Bitspower fittings, but I might go with WaterCool's if I hear good things.
Click to expand...

And if a follow up is allowed, lol, do they sell st/ro extenders? Cannot find them if so; am i having my blond moment?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BucketInABucket*
> 
> I honestly just want an option to have the acrylic blocks light up so they match the GPU. It'll be an instant-buy for me.


You know that we have high standards regarding aesthetics (and I guess that's one of the reasons why most of you guys are here, after all







). So we don't want simple drill holes with visible LEDs. We tried that and didn't like the look. So we heard the demand for well hidden LED strips, prefereably RGB, in CPU blocks, and are thinking about how we could accomplish that. It's on our list for 2018, but no promises for even a rough ETA.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I'm itching for some info on the upcoming radiators optimized for medium speed fans. If the performance metrics are right, it might just be the perfect fit for my next build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Hey @Watercool-Jakob, how we looking on the new radiators?


What is "medium" fan speed in your opinion? This is a serious question, and I mean all of you guys: we are having a hard time to decide for which fan speed we want the rads to be optimized for. What is you guy's opinion on this?
We do have a couple of prototypes running right now, trying different configurations. ETA for the final product: looking more like Q2/2018, actually. Maybe April? Maybe May?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Don't know how i'd missed it, saw the Heatkiller 200 D5 Tube in some random pic (honestly had no clue), loved the looks of it and started checking reviews.
> 
> Man that looks like quality; and the top part? Much preferable a solution, should make filling a breeze. Was decided on an AC Aqualis, but i can honestly say i'm glad i didn't pull that trigger. Waiting for my S8 to arrive so i can measure distances (planning to have it horizontal, bottom left) but once i've got those, add another customer to the list


Thanks, love to hear that!
Quote:


> On a more general note, anyone here willing to share their experience with Watercool compression fittings? Don't think we've a dedicated thread for those, do we?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I am also curious about this. Was thinking about going with Bitspower fittings, but I might go with WaterCool's if I hear good things.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> And if a follow up is allowed, lol, do they sell st/ro extenders? Cannot find them if so; am i having my blond moment?


We don't have own fittings yet. The fittings currently in our shop are unbranded purchased parts. We will start a cooperation with Barrow in February and will offer their premium quality fittings, both softtubes and hardlines. We do want to close that hole in our product portfolio sometime in the future, but we don't own the necessary machines to produce fittings yet. It is on our bucket list, and we aim to offer an own line of fittings in 2019 latest.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We don't have own fittings yet. The fittings currently in our shop are unbranded purchased parts. We will start a cooperation with Barrow in February and will offer their premium quality fittings, both softtubes and hardlines. We do want to close that hole in our product portfolio sometime in the future, but we don't own the necessary machines to produce fittings yet. It is on our bucket list, and we aim to offer an own line of fittings in 2019 latest.


As someone who is a Barrow retailer, I can genuinely say that's a wise decision. Excellent products for a very good price.
For soft tubing, do you guys have any specific plans there in terms of brands, ala Tygon for example?


----------



## Nameless101

For me personally, medium fan speed is from 800-1000rpm. In other words, definitely audible, but still relatively unobtrusive with quality fans. I always plump for radiators optimised for sub-800rpm fans, which is why I'm currently running Aquacomputer AMS rads and will be shortly moving to a mo-ra3. Are there plans to do a refresh on that by the way? I'm just waiting for those single slot Vega waterblocks before placing my order..


----------



## catbuster

Rads for 800rpm fan pls







cant wait to see fittings also !


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> As someone who is a Barrow retailer, I can genuinely say that's a wise decision. Excellent products for a very good price.
> For soft tubing, do you guys have any specific plans there in terms of brands, ala Tygon for example?


We currently sell Primochill tubing (and are, as far as I know, the only reseller in Europe) and Mayhems. Both offer Very good high quality soft tubes. We also have some budget options, of course.
We are always looking for new cooperation partners in all parts of operation, so there might eventually show up a new Tube, too









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> For me personally, medium fan speed is from 800-1000rpm. In other words, definitely audible, but still relatively unobtrusive with quality fans. I always plump for radiators optimised for sub-800rpm fans, which is why I'm currently running Aquacomputer AMS rads and will be shortly moving to a mo-ra3. Are there plans to do a refresh on that by the way? I'm just waiting for those single slot Vega waterblocks before placing my order..


Ah, you are that email







Yeah, I meant to answer you later on - it's crazy how many emails I get currently









So, we had an inquiry from some people for nonstylish, basic budget water blocks for RX Vega. (I'm guessing mining rigs, but who am I to judge.) So, there will be a new option for RX Vega waterblocks by end of this week, with Acetal covers.

Re Radiator specs: we want to bring the BEST product to the market. We want to bring that product that YOU guys want! So we ask for your opinion: How fast do you want your radiator fans to spin? Please take that 10 second poll and spread the URL so we get as many replies as possible. The more we know about what you truly want, the better products we will offer you!


----------



## D3cryp70R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We will start a cooperation with Barrow in February and will offer their premium quality fittings, both softtubes and hardlines.
> .


Unbranded (as now) or branded ?


----------



## Aenra

@Watercool-Jakob

Would love to see you sell Barrow fittings, not a fan of Ali-baba-express if i'm to be honest. More than happy to purchase them from you instead 

And knowing you buy from someone with more of an actual presence in the field is definitely a bonus, ease of mind, trust, etc. So i definitely hope you go forward with this. Will probably be pointless to mention, but please, if you're to import, import it all. As in you know, not just 'x' variety of fittings that are most commonly used, but also extenders, ball valves, uncommon I/O Diameters and so on. Assuming of course that's possible, i know first hand what the 'joys' of becoming a distributor are, lol

My middle fan speed is around 1500RPM. Might be 'cause i'm an old fart, but am thinking people get too soft/touchy the more you allow them in life. Or have ego issues.. buy 6 rads for one setup, so O.K., gotta excuse the purchase somehow, lol, so let's run fans at 400RPM.. i mean.. anyway, that's just me.

What i could note on a more general level, is that:

1) We already have loads of companies focusing on mid RPM rads; are you guys honestly sure that's where you want to compete in? We'd have to be talking about an exceptionally good rad or an exceptionally cheap one. Do you have the facility to make a production line that cheap?

2) While a lot of Europeans do indeed go for the 'silent' fan treatment, i would warn before categorizing everyone in EU as falling in it. Cost is one factor (run your fan a bit higher, do your job with fewer rads if you go the 60mm route), 'loud minority' being the other. Your clientele should almost definitely be comprised from more than a couple of regular forum posters that happen to coincide on 'x' current trend. Because current and a trend it is. Used to be folks had some sanity, distinguished between noise and cooling. Used to be.

Anyway, my 2c since you asked. Thanks for replying


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Re Radiator specs: we want to bring the BEST product to the market. We want to bring that product that YOU guys want! So we ask for your opinion: How fast do you want your radiator fans to spin? Please take that 10 second poll and spread the URL so we get as many replies as possible. The more we know about what you truly want, the better products we will offer you!


Answered. 800-1200 is usually where my rads operate. 1000rpm with Corsair ML fans is virtually inaudible and provides pretty good performance. Other fans and systems may be different but somewhere in there is your answer.


----------



## Jakerz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> Answered. 800-1200 is usually where my rads operate. 1000rpm with Corsair ML fans is virtually inaudible and provides pretty good performance. Other fans and systems may be different but somewhere in there is you answer.


Yup I agree with this for sure, PWM fans that can go from 800ish to around 1500rpm are perfect. Still silent when they don't need to be loud and can still push good amounts of air is needed!

Jake


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D3cryp70R*
> 
> Unbranded (as now) or branded ?


This will be branded.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Would love to see you sell Barrow fittings, not a fan of Ali-baba-express if i'm to be honest. More than happy to purchase them from you instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And knowing you buy from someone with more of an actual presence in the field is definitely a bonus, ease of mind, trust, etc. So i definitely hope you go forward with this. Will probably be pointless to mention, but please, if you're to import, import it all. As in you know, not just 'x' variety of fittings that are most commonly used, but also extenders, ball valves, uncommon I/O Diameters and so on. Assuming of course that's possible, i know first hand what the 'joys' of becoming a distributor are, lol


We start with a basic set of the most commonly needed parts and see how quickly these sell. Depending on that, we will evaluate if we want to expand to the whole lineup of extenders, rotarys, connectors, splitters andsoonandsoon.
Quote:


> What i could note on a more general level, is that:
> 1) We already have loads of companies focusing on mid RPM rads; are you guys honestly sure that's where you want to compete in? We'd have to be talking about an exceptionally good rad or an exceptionally cheap one. Do you have the facility to make a production line that cheap?
> 2) While a lot of Europeans do indeed go for the 'silent' fan treatment, i would warn before categorizing everyone in EU as falling in it. Cost is one factor (run your fan a bit higher, do your job with fewer rads if you go the 60mm route), 'loud minority' being the other. Your clientele should almost definitely be comprised from more than a couple of regular forum posters that happen to coincide on 'x' current trend. Because current _and_ a trend it is. Used to be folks had some sanity, distinguished between noise and cooling. Used to be.
> 
> Anyway, my 2c since you asked. Thanks for replying


1. Our rad will most likely not be exceptionally cheap







It will definitely be extremely clean and offer a fundamentally different approach to internal layout.
2. That's exactly why we are making this poll: to get hard data on this question. We could exchange guesstimations about size and relevance of the "noise before power" - fraction all day, but this is the only way to get closer to a "true" reading of our customers' taste.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> We start with a basic set of the most commonly needed parts and see how quickly these sell. Depending on that, we will evaluate if we want to expand to the whole lineup of extenders, rotarys, connectors, splitters andsoonandsoon.


Should this be read as 'and soon!! and soon!!' or the more boring 'and so on and so on'?


----------



## MNMadman

I answered 1800-2000 RPM, as I am more concerned with cooling performance than fan noise. The Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR series could use some more competition.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *D3cryp70R*
> 
> Unbranded (as now) or branded ?
> 
> 
> 
> This will be branded.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Would love to see you sell Barrow fittings, not a fan of Ali-baba-express if i'm to be honest. More than happy to purchase them from you instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And knowing you buy from someone with more of an actual presence in the field is definitely a bonus, ease of mind, trust, etc. So i definitely hope you go forward with this. Will probably be pointless to mention, but please, if you're to import, import it all. As in you know, not just 'x' variety of fittings that are most commonly used, but also extenders, ball valves, uncommon I/O Diameters and so on. Assuming of course that's possible, i know first hand what the 'joys' of becoming a distributor are, lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We start with a basic set of the most commonly needed parts and see how quickly these sell. Depending on that, we will evaluate if we want to expand to the whole lineup of extenders, rotarys, connectors, splitters andsoonandsoon.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> What i could note on a more general level, is that:
> 1) We already have loads of companies focusing on mid RPM rads; are you guys honestly sure that's where you want to compete in? We'd have to be talking about an exceptionally good rad or an exceptionally cheap one. Do you have the facility to make a production line that cheap?
> 2) While a lot of Europeans do indeed go for the 'silent' fan treatment, i would warn before categorizing everyone in EU as falling in it. Cost is one factor (run your fan a bit higher, do your job with fewer rads if you go the 60mm route), 'loud minority' being the other. Your clientele should almost definitely be comprised from more than a couple of regular forum posters that happen to coincide on 'x' current trend. Because current _and_ a trend it is. Used to be folks had some sanity, distinguished between noise and cooling. Used to be.
> 
> Anyway, my 2c since you asked. Thanks for replying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1. Our rad will most likely not be exceptionally cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will definitely be extremely clean and offer a fundamentally different approach to internal layout.
> 2. That's exactly why we are making this poll: to get hard data on this question. We could exchange guesstimations about size and relevance of the "noise before power" - fraction all day, but this is the only way to get closer to a "true" reading of our customers' taste.
Click to expand...

I'm glad that you have decided to go with Barrow for your fittings, they really are a good quality product at a reasonable cost.

I also voted in your poll. Would be nice to see you using OCN for future polls, with the results posted here.









Such as it is a personal preference/needs situation though.
I myself prefer "fat", low fpi rads, but of course that depends on the space availability in the case being used, tolerance to fan noise, etc.

There are enough "cheap" and mid-range rads out there now.
Imo, it is good that you are going to continue making a high-quality rad, with no leftover flux issues, etc., so it will be a nice clean design, much as you have done with your previous rads, but with decent performance as well.

looking forward to seeing some updates on your upcoming rads, as their development progresses.


----------



## TheArkratos

I answered 800-1000. Honestly, I tend to just buy HardwareLabs GTS radiators because for slim radiators they are monsters: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

Even without the need for a slim radiator I tend to just buy those anyways because they are still very versatile. I would love to see competition for HardwareLabs. I'm kind of tired of seeing the same radiators in all of my builds. But at this point I own 2 240 U flow, 1 240 X flow, 2 360 U flow, 1 360 X flow GTS radiators along with some random others from when I didn't know about the round up article... (swiftech, EK, etc). To me slim radiators are the most versatile, they fit where thicker will not, and they also work better for lower rpm due to a shorter distance for the air to travel.

So that said, I'd vote the best performing slim radiator you can, which also more than likely means optimized for lower rpm (sub 1200).

However, if you land at the top of the charts and can get Xtremerigs to update the chart, you will sell. Almost every time someone asks about radiators on reddit I just link them that article and let them figure it out.

Edit: Bonus points if it's not as restrictive as the GTS....


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> This will be branded.
> We start with a basic set of the most commonly needed parts and see how quickly these sell. Depending on that, we will evaluate if we want to expand to the whole lineup of extenders, rotarys, connectors, splitters andsoonandsoon.
> 1. Our rad will most likely not be exceptionally cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will definitely be extremely clean and offer a fundamentally different approach to internal layout.
> 2. That's exactly why we are making this poll: to get hard data on this question. We could exchange guesstimations about size and relevance of the "noise before power" - fraction all day, but this is the only way to get closer to a "true" reading of our customers' taste.


For rad price, a Hardware Labs GTX 360 (360x54mm) is around $105 USD. Going to ~$130 USD for a close to equal performing rad but with Watercool build quality and aesthetic isn't much of a stretch. Beyond that, say $150+, expectations would be higher. Multi-port, premium materials, top of the performance charts (thermal dissipation, flow resistance, etc), aesthetic innovation (custom metal plates or whatever), etc. While I am sure there is a market that would, personally, I would not pay >$200 for a 360mm rad, no matter it's features or performance (Hi, Aquacomputer).

Brainstorming here, there would be some capacity for customization similar to the Heatkiller Tube reservoirs, in order to hit a lower entry price but still be able to offer certain features. The basic reservoir is at a price premium, but nothing crazy given the quality of the product. If you want, you can add things like pump tops, res tops, mounting brackets, etc. That drives up the price, but only as needed (those add ons aren't necessarily need for the res to function). A similar, albeit more SKU/model based, approach could be applied to the rads. Instead of metal side plates the basic ships with plastic. Basic is dual port, premium is multiport models. No drain port on basic, drain port on premium. 2 rad sizes, with the thinner having a lower starting price. And so on. IDK if you can make the port top modular with one design for dual port and one design for multiport like the Tube, but that would be interesting. Maybe even a plastic vs metal option. IIRC, Aquacomputer does this.

Size is pretty important as well. There are a couple things to consider. The vast majority of case manufacturers these days design their cases with AIOs in mind and not custom loops. This has made 30mm radiators the only option for anything that isn't a full tower (or the very rare large mid tower). Sure, I put a 360x54mm push/pull rad in my Phanteks Evolv ATX... but I really wish I hadn't. If possible, I think a 30-45mm radiator would be a wise offering and would address the majority of the market. Moving up to the larger size rads, 54-60mm. IMO more than 60mm is just silly The ~54mm rad is what people with a bigger case and a bigger budget (more price flexibility vs thin rad) are likely going to opt for. With that said I think the market for the former is larger than the latter. Finally I wouldn't go any wider than Hardware Labs. Their rads already run into compatibility issues with some cases and anything greater than (their 30mm rads are 133mm wide, 54mm are 154mm wide) that is going to run into a large number of compatibility issues.

In summary, in my imaginary fantasy land, it would look like this...

Watercool Heatkiller S-Rad (30-45mm) (<$100USD entry for 360mm)
- Base: Dual port, plastic insert, basic paint/metal finish, no drain port.
- Lux: Dual port, metal insert, premium paint/metal finish, drain port

Watercool Heatkiller XL-Rad (54-60mm) (<$150USD entry for 360mm)
- Base: Dual port, plastic insert, basic paint/metal finish, no drain port.
- Lux: Multiport port, metal insert, premium paint/metal finish, drain port
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> I answered 800-1000. Honestly, I tend to just buy HardwareLabs GTS radiators because for slim radiators they are monsters: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
> 
> Even without the need for a slim radiator I tend to just buy those anyways because they are still very versatile. I would love to see competition for HardwareLabs. I'm kind of tired of seeing the same radiators in all of my builds. But at this point I own 2 240 U flow, 1 240 X flow, 2 360 U flow, 1 360 X flow GTS radiators along with some random others from when I didn't know about the round up article... (swiftech, EK, etc). To me slim radiators are the most versatile, they fit where thicker will not, and they also work better for lower rpm due to a shorter distance for the air to travel.
> 
> So that said, I'd vote the best performing slim radiator you can, which also more than likely means optimized for lower rpm (sub 1200).
> 
> However, if you land at the top of the charts and can get Xtremerigs to update the chart, you will sell. Almost every time someone asks about radiators on reddit I just link them that article and let them figure it out.


I second this. Get on or near the top of that chart and you will move units. ATM it is really the only way to comparatively recommend radiators to system builders. That, plus a couple sponsored builds and maybe some YouTuber stuff (Daniel at Singularity Computers, I guess Jayz2Cents, etc)


----------



## VileLasagna

@Watercool-Jakob

Answering a bit about your fan question:

To me medium fan speed would be between 1200 and 1700 ish RPM, at least for 120mm fans, 140s usually run slower

I guess sort of by going through available fans, tbh;
Something like Akasa Apaches, I personally still see as some of the best lower speed fans out there. Slower than that, are usually through controllers and/or voltage droppers, aiming for usually 700~800
I believe less than that to be uncommon. Furthermore, if you're that concerned about noise you're likely to be using some sort of fan control, even if it's just a PWM curve for your mobo headers. And even if you WANT the performance at that lower end, you're still somewhat expecting your fans to ramp up a bit sometimes to that 1000~1200 RPM range.

And for high speed, I feel EK's Vardar and Akasa's Viper fans are good solid examples, with the nigh legendary (and justifiably so) Nidec Gentle Typhoon AP15s just getting there with 1850RPM. These are the definitely on the wooshy side of things. And, again, a bit of expectation mayhaps, that if you're looking for high performance, you expect to be running them fast.

It's quite personal, I guess, but those have always been more or less the guidelines (and some fans) I've used.

Regarding rads, I think the most important feature to not let out is having extra ports.It just adds so much as a system builder. I myself am Running XSPC RXs now and even just having the extra set of ports on the bottom of the tank already helped me A TON. So definitely look to do that.

Rads are a bit of a rough market, I guess. They don't usually have much to offer other than their performance. I feel these ports are one of the few things. A removable shroud would be good for modders, but would push assembly price up, I guess. And finally when it comes to RPM range targeting. I guess I echo some people here thinking maybe you should look at high FPI offerings for more performance oriented things. And then really sell it as that.

My reasoning echoes some of what's been said. Most manufacturers seem to target this "mid range" as a compromise so it's a bit crowded. If you're cheap, there's magicool, if you're expensive there's primochill, ek... But off the top of my head the two manufacturers I know make high fpi rads are Koolance and HWLabs, and I haven't seen anything from them in ages (in b4: Don't see many manufacturers with distributors in NZ anyway =P). If you go low FPI, XSPC is still a beast there and there are other manufacurers who tried (looking at you, Alphacool) but kinda disappointed. So maybe a harder target?

I feel there might be better opportunity with high fpi, even if it's not necessarily what I personally like using


----------



## Paprika

Got my TR4 block today. Don't have a camera at hand bar my phone and the lighting is awful, so I'll skip pictures this round.

However, I have to say. Holy hell that's one heavy beast. Popped it open as well, and the milling is spot on.
Huge kudos to Watercool!


----------



## emsj86

Honestly most people seem to buy up the 30-45 rads and run fans usually between 800-1200rpms from what I see. I hope you get narrow fittings as only thing holding me from getting those fittings and I don’t want to deal with Ali express and state side all you can find mostly is just black color barrow fittings


----------



## Zero4549

I consider medium speed to be 1000-1800ish rpm.

I'd consider your current rads to be best suited to extreme low speed (sub 800) fans, and only really suitable up to "normal" low-speed fans (800-1200.

I'm currently using what I would consider high-speed fans (2500rpm panaflos) on a very high density (hwlabs black ice gtx) rad, and I have them voltage controlled on a homemade fan controller. I couldn't tell you the exact speed my fans are spinning due to my setup, but I'd say they're probably spinning at around 1800rpm most of the time.

With the vastly lower heat output of modern parts compared when I built this system, I'm strongly considering medium speed fans an a radiator optimized more for that speed. Your current solutions, while fantastic, are optimized for way too low of a fan speed for me. Between street noises, HVAC noises, my server in the other room, and noises from adjacent apartments, fan speeds under, say, 1000-1200rpm are basically completely inaudible, so anything lower would just be a waste of cooling potential with no advantages.

Ideally, I'd want something optimized around 1200-1500rpm, but without total failure outside of its optimal range. I can't see myself ever needing to run above 2000 on modern parts, and as stated earlier I'd have no reason to run below 1000.

And yes, I realize my fan speed ratings have overlaps. Not all fans are created equal.


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> With the vastly lower heat output of modern parts compared when I built this system, I'm strongly considering medium speed fans an a radiator optimized more for that speed.


Honestly I think last year opened this back up a lot. On the CPU side, particularly the high end platforms (x299 and x399 are quite power hungry). And on the GPU sides, they have become more sensitive to temps now that they're auto-OCing. Plus, if you're on the Team Red side, as I am, Vega is a monster in terms of power draw. If you're OCing you want to give it, what's even worse on this end, because it will go quite a bit further if given the juice (and the cooling, etc).

So yeah... I think your assessment is true for most mainstream components, but we do have some stronk outliers now. Lucky for us, Watercool seems to make a pretty good TR4 block, at least =P


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> Honestly I think last year opened this back up a lot. On the CPU side, particularly the high end platforms (x299 and x399 are quite power hungry). And on the GPU sides, they have become more sensitive to temps now that they're auto-OCing. Plus, if you're on the Team Red side, as I am, Vega is a monster in terms of power draw. If you're OCing you want to give it, what's even worse on this end, because it will go quite a bit further if given the juice (and the cooling, etc).
> 
> So yeah... I think your assessment is true for most mainstream components, but we do have some stronk outliers now. Lucky for us, Watercool seems to make a pretty good TR4 block, at least =P


I mean, even threadripper and vega are tame compared to the i7 920 and dual gtx 295s I originally built this loop for, and even for those parts it was honestly a bit overkill.

I'm thinking a nice medium speed optimized 4x120 radiator should be plenty for any modern system at reasonable clocks, and with the lian-li v3000 I'm eyeing, I could always add a second radiator if necessary.

That said, you are right. We are finally seeing high power parts again for the first time in nearly a decade, just not _that_ high


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I mean, even threadripper and vega are tame compared to the i7 920 and dual gtx 295s I originally built this loop for, and even for those parts it was honestly a bit overkill.
> 
> I'm thinking a nice medium speed optimized 4x120 radiator should be plenty for any modern system at reasonable clocks, and with the lian-li v3000 I'm eyeing, I could always add a second radiator if necessary.
> 
> That said, you are right. We are finally seeing high power parts again for the first time in nearly a decade, just not _that_ high


Well, default TDP for the 920 is 130W, for a 1950X that's 180W. That and Intel's x299 offerings are pretty insane (my 1920X is pretty tame by comparison, it seems. Though I too am very overspecced and "underclocked" atm).

Regarding the 295, well, that's a dual GPU card so that's a bit of a cheating. Vega is pretty similar to the 290 in power draw though, I think the "freer" 64 BIOSes will gladly go to the 300W mark without much trouble

Also: That case is smexy. I was lucky I couldn't find one anywhere when I was speccing my rig XD


----------



## paskowitz

IIRC Pascal GPU overclocking doesn't push power consumption that high since the voltage cap is so low (shunt mods, which do next to nothing, not withstanding). Sure lower temps keep clocks more stable, but you aren't going to push clocks that much higher by going from 42c to 38c. Silicon lottery is going to limit you more than temps once you get below 40c. Not to mention FPS gains from those marginal increases will be minuscule.

The CPU side is a different story. However, it is more about capacity, are you overwhelming your rad(s). In this case the buyer should be smart and buy a case with at least 720mm of total rad support and good airflow so this isn't even a question/problem.

IMO, performance wise, there isn't any "need" to go beyond the top rads that are available now. For me the "needs" right now are overall quality (not that many high end options ATM), features (ports, etc), and aesthetics (all rads look about the same).


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Should this be read as 'and soon!! and soon!!' or the more boring 'and so on and so on'?


Ah. The boring one - sorry









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I also voted in your poll. Would be nice to see you using OCN for future polls, with the results posted here.


We did our last poll on our own forum, and next to no one answered, because people didn't want to create an account "just to vote". So I chose an open software this time, so I could get opinions from different american, international, and german forums, and also twitter and facebook users all in one place.
I'm undecided if I want to fully publish the result. On the one hand, I can see that people are interested in it. On the other hand, I don't want to make it super easy for our competitors









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> I answered 1800-2000 RPM, as I am more concerned with cooling performance than fan noise. The Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTR series could use some more competition.


Let me be honest with you guys: I was full of prejudices before doing this poll. My expectation was that the german hardcore scene will go "500rpm is the tolerable maximum" and that the american scene will go "everything below 1800 isn't worth doing". Actually, the results were way more even across the globe! I am super happy and thankful for the ~250 people who voted in less than 24 hours and I hope to get some more results over the weekend. But now already, I can see a very clear trend where we will push development to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> I answered 800-1000. Honestly, I tend to just buy HardwareLabs GTS radiators because for slim radiators they are monsters: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
> However, if you land at the top of the charts and can get Xtremerigs to update the chart, you will sell. Almost every time someone asks about radiators on reddit I just link them that article and let them figure it out.


Thanks for the heads-up! I had seen that round-up sometime, but wasn't even aware that it was SO dominant for the american community. Appreciate the good advice!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> For rad price, a Hardware Labs GTX 360 (360x54mm) is around $105 USD. Going to ~$130 USD for a close to equal performing rad but with Watercool build quality and aesthetic isn't much of a stretch. Beyond that, say $150+, expectations would be higher. Multi-port, premium materials, top of the performance charts (thermal dissipation, flow resistance, etc), aesthetic innovation (custom metal plates or whatever), etc. While I am sure there is a market that would, personally, I would not pay >$200 for a 360mm rad, no matter it's features or performance (Hi, Aquacomputer).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Brainstorming here, there would be some capacity for customization similar to the Heatkiller Tube reservoirs, in order to hit a lower entry price but still be able to offer certain features. The basic reservoir is at a price premium, but nothing crazy given the quality of the product. If you want, you can add things like pump tops, res tops, mounting brackets, etc. That drives up the price, but only as needed (those add ons aren't necessarily need for the res to function). A similar, albeit more SKU/model based, approach could be applied to the rads. Instead of metal side plates the basic ships with plastic. Basic is dual port, premium is multiport models. No drain port on basic, drain port on premium. 2 rad sizes, with the thinner having a lower starting price. And so on. IDK if you can make the port top modular with one design for dual port and one design for multiport like the Tube, but that would be interesting. Maybe even a plastic vs metal option. IIRC, Aquacomputer does this.
> 
> Size is pretty important as well. There are a couple things to consider. The vast majority of case manufacturers these days design their cases with AIOs in mind and not custom loops. This has made 30mm radiators the only option for anything that isn't a full tower (or the very rare large mid tower). Sure, I put a 360x54mm push/pull rad in my Phanteks Evolv ATX... but I really wish I hadn't. If possible, I think a 30-45mm radiator would be a wise offering and would address the majority of the market. Moving up to the larger size rads, 54-60mm. IMO more than 60mm is just silly The ~54mm rad is what people with a bigger case and a bigger budget (more price flexibility vs thin rad) are likely going to opt for. With that said I think the market for the former is larger than the latter. Finally I wouldn't go any wider than Hardware Labs. Their rads already run into compatibility issues with some cases and anything greater than (their 30mm rads are 133mm wide, 54mm are 154mm wide) that is going to run into a large number of compatibility issues.
> 
> 
> 
> In summary, in my imaginary fantasy land, it would look like this...
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller S-Rad (30-45mm) (<$100USD entry for 360mm)
> - Base: Dual port, plastic insert, basic paint/metal finish, no drain port.
> - Lux: Dual port, metal insert, premium paint/metal finish, drain port
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller XL-Rad (54-60mm) (<$150USD entry for 360mm)
> - Base: Dual port, plastic insert, basic paint/metal finish, no drain port.
> - Lux: Multiport port, metal insert, premium paint/metal finish, drain port


Thanks for those great suggestions! Much appreciated! We already have the problem that we will have at least 12 items (120, 240, 360, 140, 280, 420, thin and thick), which is a lot for resellers to stock. If we add another layer of options, resellers will be even more reluctant. We'll see if we can solve this dilemma somehow...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> Rads are a bit of a rough market, I guess. They don't usually have much to offer other than their performance. I feel these ports are one of the few things. A removable shroud would be good for modders, but would push assembly price up, I guess. And finally when it comes to RPM range targeting. I guess I echo some people here thinking maybe you should look at high FPI offerings for more performance oriented things. And then really sell it as that.
> 
> My reasoning echoes some of what's been said. Most manufacturers seem to target this "mid range" as a compromise so it's a bit crowded. If you're cheap, there's magicool, if you're expensive there's primochill, ek... But off the top of my head the two manufacturers I know make high fpi rads are Koolance and HWLabs, and I haven't seen anything from them in ages (in b4: Don't see many manufacturers with distributors in NZ anyway =P). If you go low FPI, XSPC is still a beast there and there are other manufacurers who tried (looking at you, Alphacool) but kinda disappointed. So maybe a harder target?
> 
> I feel there might be better opportunity with high fpi, even if it's not necessarily what I personally like using


Thanks for the input! Highly appreciated!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> IMO, performance wise, there isn't any "need" to go beyond the top rads that are available now. For me the "needs" right now are overall quality (not that many high end options ATM), features (ports, etc), and aesthetics (all rads look about the same).


Oh we DO aim for high end quality, rest assured









To everyone involved in this discussion: thank you very much! It feels great to see so many constructive discussions with the community, both here and in other forums that I attend. I take a lot from all of this, both personally (I already touched the topic of my own prejudices versus the american preferences, and I am happy that those were dealt with!) and as a company rep. It's really refreshing to get out of the office and talk with you guys about stuff - I always come back to our internal discussions with fresh ideas, and a better understanding what the community really asks for! So please, keep going, this is entertaining, educating, and relevant for me and for all of us!


----------



## The L33t

@Watercool-Jakob

Well, if you could ever find a way to design a modular radiator.. You'd have the stocking issues fixed. Resellers would only have to stock "120 and 140" modules plus top and bottom, the middle part that could be repeated as many times as needed...

That'd be a feat. Not an easy one, because most likely compromises on performance would have to be taken... Could end up a novelty item...

But One can dream..


----------



## Aenra

In a sense i guess one could say i'm biased, but i'd like to think i can be that without losing focus 

So that said?

- RPM =>2000 category:

Anyone currently going for high RPM rads has precious few options and is statistically speaking at least going to end up with a Hardware Labs Nemesis (the reincarnation of the former Black Ice).

No offense to anyone from down there, wherever that is, but personally? I honestly wish there was a local, EU equivalent. Support my own, get the same performance, plus all the boni from having someone i can actually communicate with should i need to. We're talking about literally this one rad.. exceptions applying, bit of competition there should be good for both sides. Us and you guys. This is a chunk of the market that has not seen much in terms of alternatives. Added bonus that snatching a "Performance Award" within it would always carry you onwards, even to other, unrelated categories (good PR). Not very hard to go for a performance award when you've only got one opponent.

- 800<= RPM <=1500 category:

Welcome to the show... you have everyone and their mother competing within it. Barring exceptional performance, surprisingly low price or "aesthetics", you'll be looking at a long, long way up; if ever. Aesthetics might save you, unfortunately such is the market today, RGB gives 23 extra FPS and tempered glass about 8 more. It's a viable approach (again, unfortunately), but a shallow one. Sooner or later it will cost you. Has to others.

- <= 800RPM category:

You plus a couple more companies (one of which being very but very near you ^^). Much easier to make a name for you there. Why?

Size rules out one company almost out of the box, their rads just don't fit in most cases. The others are from across the ocean, so you'll definitely be able to compete with them, as your prices should be noticeably lower, locally anyway. A good place to start, but with a minimum growth potential. The chunk is in the middle for most, vying against each other, or at the top, with pretty much a monopoly.

Results/conclusions self-evident.

(as always, just my opinion)


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Well, if you could ever find a way to design a modular radiator.. You'd have the stocking issues fixed. Resellers would only have to stock "120 and 140" modules plus top and bottom, the middle part that could be repeated as many times as needed...
> 
> That'd be a feat. Not an easy one, because most likely compromises on performance would have to be taken... Could end up a novelty item...
> 
> But One can dream..


That's been attempted to some extent. The result was gloriously sexy, outrageously priced and terribly disappointing.


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> That's been attempted to some extent. The result was gloriously sexy, outrageously priced and terribly disappointing.


The recipe for a novelty item, just as I thought. Notwithstanding.. One can never say neve, it certainly is possible but much more than that has to be accounted for sure.


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Jakob the main reason why I suggested eleventy million SKUs was to get the price down. If that is not a problem then there's 0 need to have multiple configurations, naturally. I can see how selling a radiator like a reservoir it would be far more difficult given the various sizes radiators come in, which is far more extensive than reservoirs.


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> That's been attempted to some extent. The result was gloriously sexy, outrageously priced and terribly disappointing.


What was it? Have a link?


----------



## MNMadman

@Watercool-Jakob

My preferred feature set for radiators is simple:

Copper tubes and fins (tanks too, but I suppose brass is acceptable for those)
45mm and 60mm thicknesses
120mm and 140mm fan sizes
Four or more inlet/outlet ports
Bleed/drain port at opposite end
Optimized for high fan speed
You've already lost this round (for rads anyway) due to not having a dog in the fight. But I build new systems often -- since I started building my own systems the longest I've kept one is 26 months. This is my one vice and I like to keep it interesting. So once you do release your rads, as long as performance doesn't fall off too much at high fan speed I'll give them serious consideration for the next build.

I'll be ordering for this year's build by the second week in February or so. I'll be getting a GPU block & backplate, reservoir & multiport top, and D5 pump & pump top from you guys. CPU cooling is still undecided between one of your TR blocks and a Bitspower monoblock.


----------



## Barefooter

Since we're talking about what people want in a radiator... for me multi-port is a must have! That limits options quite a lot for what is currently available.

I know that does add expense, but for high end rads multi-port is the way to go


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Since we're talking about what people want in a radiator... for me multi-port is a must have! That limits options quite a lot for what is currently available.
> 
> I know that does add expense, but for high end rads multi-port is the way to go


Agree need multi ports and pref a drain port at the opposite end.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> What was it? Have a link?


This isn't the thread for a lengthy discussion on these radiators, but I think he might be talking about Aqua Computer's AMS line of radiators, which are basically modular, look fantastic (especially the copper finned versions) and are indeed outrageously expensive. I run a pair in my current rig as it happens...


----------



## sig0431

I have looked over their website but wanted to check with you all lastly. Is there any HeatKiller support for MSI GTX 1070 Gaming-X? I have a Phanteks Glacier 1080 that is causing me issues and they have already had to send me a replacement. I am using a HeatKiller res in my build and love their products so I would love to get a GPU block for my card as well from them.


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> This isn't the thread for a lengthy discussion on these radiators, but I think he might be talking about Aqua Computer's AMS line of radiators, which are basically modular, look fantastic (especially the copper finned versions) and are indeed outrageously expensive. I run a pair in my current rig as it happens...


This man knows.

Sadly though, i think all reviews I've seen of them ended up with disappointing performance results. I believe that it's largely due to the choice of round pipes. But DAMN THEY SMEXY. I'm saying this and I still want them. That's how smexy they are.



In terms of smexyness, I think Magicool also did some bare copper ones back in the day, their elegant series. They had plastic end tanks and I THINK I heard something about it resulting into problems for some users? Regardless, they DO look pretty at least in the pictures. Might just oxidize later on but shiny copper is amazing. Still think these rads look kinda cool, yellowish end tank and all


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Joining in: here are my entry pieces


----------



## fx3861

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sig0431*
> 
> I have looked over their website but wanted to check with you all lastly. Is there any HeatKiller support for MSI GTX 1070 Gaming-X? I have a Phanteks Glacier 1080 that is causing me issues and they have already had to send me a replacement. I am using a HeatKiller res in my build and love their products so I would love to get a GPU block for my card as well from them.


Unless your Gaming-X have the same design as the reference card, you be able to use the reference edition block. What sort of heating issues using the Phanteks glacier as im using the same as well for strix 1080


----------



## VileLasagna

@nickbaldwin86

I'm partial to a different manufacturer when it comes to CPU blocks but Watercool's GPU blocks are beautiful


----------



## sig0431

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Unless your Gaming-X have the same design as the reference card, you be able to use the reference edition block. What sort of heating issues using the Phanteks glacier as im using the same as well for strix 1080


I am not having a heating issue, I am having a leaking issue haha. They had to replace the first block because there was a crack around a screw and now the new one has what seems to be a internal leak as fluid has blead outside the coolant chambers.


----------



## fx3861

Thats sucks, mines holding up well though, hopefully ??


----------



## sig0431

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fx3861*
> 
> Thats sucks, mines holding up well though, hopefully ??


see below image, you will see a thin layer of blue fluid where there should be no fluid.


----------



## TheArkratos

I know this is a dumb idea, but I would love to have a 1cm thick radiator, that way I could slap a 15mm thick fan on it and literally place it anywhere a 25mm fan would fit. Honestly, it would probably terribly but with enough radiator surface area.... yada yada, I just want to try it.

Kind of want to buy a Aqua Computer AMS radiator just to cut the core down to one layer of tubes instead of the three. I think that would put it around 1 cm thick...?

Enough of that nonsense though, a radiator that thin would probably perform like trash and is probably why no one has done it. Still would be a major boom for case compatibility...

On topic though, I wonder if something completely different would be a good idea for a product? No one has done a non rectangular radiator, yet fans are circles. And the center of the fan is always a dead zone. Call me crazy but I wonder if you had the inlet to the radiator at the center (behind the fan hub) if it would act like a jet plate does for cpu blocks. I'm just brainstorming stupid stuff, but I'm all for market innovation.


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sig0431*
> 
> see below image, you will see a thin layer of blue fluid where there should be no fluid.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's not a leak, it's still inside the o-ring...

Edit: That happens on just about every block if the head pressure of your pump is high enough. Happened on my EK block when I turned my d5 above 3 out of 5.


----------



## sig0431

I will see what lowering my pump may do, thanks for the info. I still want a HeatKiller block though haha


----------



## TheArkratos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sig0431*
> 
> I will see what lowering my pump may do, thanks for the info. I still want a HeatKiller block though haha


Once the coolant is in there you can't get it out unless you pull the block apart and clean it...


----------



## fx3861

Only
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> Once the coolant is in there you can't get it out unless you pull the block apart and clean it...


Only problem is that if he gona take the block apart, it will void the warranty though.???


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> This man knows.
> 
> Sadly though, i think all reviews I've seen of them ended up with disappointing performance results. I believe that it's largely due to the choice of round pipes. But DAMN THEY SMEXY. I'm saying this and I still want them. That's how smexy they are.
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of smexyness, I think Magicool also did some bare copper ones back in the day, their elegant series. They had plastic end tanks and I THINK I heard something about it resulting into problems for some users? Regardless, they DO look pretty at least in the pictures. Might just oxidize later on but shiny copper is amazing. Still think these rads look kinda cool, yellowish end tank and all


This was basically what I was referring to in my way too long post. Modular tops. The problem with Aquacomputer, like you said, is they don't perform well... especially in relation to how much they cost. I could see that being tricky with so many radiator size variations. Maybe only make it an option on one thickness of rad.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paskowitz*
> 
> This was basically what I was referring to in my way too long post. Modular tops. The problem with Aquacomputer, like you said, is they don't perform well... especially in relation to how much they cost. I could see that being tricky with so many radiator size variations. Maybe only make it an option on one thickness of rad.


I used those magicool radiators originally in my loop. 3/4 eventually cracked along the polycarb section, and the 4th arrived already cracked. Too bad, they were beautiful and performed well.

The AquaComputer rads are also absolutely gorgeous but unfortunately they perform very poorly and cost entirely too much to justify buying it for looks alone.


----------



## LiquidHaus

At this point, Hardware Labs has been consistently the top performer, and their value is amazing.

(it appears as though everyone is very pumped on the prospect of new radiators...)


----------



## VileLasagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> At this point, Hardware Labs has been consistently the top performer, and their value is amazing.
> 
> (it appears as though everyone is very pumped on the prospect of new radiators...)


When it comes to high fin density solutions, yeah.. The Black Ice have always been the measuring stick with which to trounce any competition as soon as fans got upwards of 2K2 RPM.Heard good things of its successor line as well. When it comes to more quiet-focused rads, to me the one to beet was always XSPC's RX. Might not have always been THE top, but ti's always there


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> When it comes to high fin density solutions, yeah.. The Black Ice have always been the measuring stick with which to trounce any competition as soon as fans got upwards of 2K2 RPM.Heard good things of its successor line as well. When it comes to more quiet-focused rads, to me the one to beet was always XSPC's RX. Might not have always been THE top, but ti's always there


Seems like you haven't kept up in the recent years. The Black Ice Nemesis GTS/GTX are low RPM tuned, and it is the newer Black Ice Nemesis GTR that is more higher RPM optimized.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> When it comes to high fin density solutions, yeah.. The Black Ice have always been the measuring stick with which to trounce any competition as soon as fans got upwards of 2K2 RPM.Heard good things of its successor line as well. When it comes to more quiet-focused rads, to me the one to beet was always XSPC's RX. Might not have always been THE top, but ti's always there


Look up the SR1 and SR2 line. Meant for super low RPMs and they absolutely kill it.


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seems like you haven't kept up in the recent years. The Black Ice Nemesis GTS/GTX are low RPM tuned, and it is the newer Black Ice Nemesis GTR that is more higher RPM optimized.


And the SR2, that one is also very good at lowRPM. Yet, costly.

I almost went "all HWLabs" on the build I'm doing, I know they are the best. I have no doubt.

But I could not justify the cost vs performance relative to EK and I liked EK's clean look better. I got my EK stuff at very good prices too. For instance I just got a XE 480 for 85€ yesterday, new.

And the 360 PE and XE I have I also managed at VERY good pricing.. looking at the performance metrics, since I have way more cooling capacity than needed, it just would not make sense.

If one goes to review websites and looks at all the graphics and all it is easy to be "fooled" into thinking the end result will be worls different. It's not, not when the final result is a few watts and couple decimals in delta.

HWLabs has ONE very unique radiator, that is the GTS line. Those things outperform way above it's class but also are very restrictive. I would have went all GTS since the price is nice but would end up with a very restrictive loop since I'd end up with 3 x 360 + 480... So I didn't.


----------



## VileLasagna

@geggeg @lifeisshort117

Huh, thaty is interesting news. And yeah, I'm coming back after being more or less in hardware limbo for some 5-6 years =P


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> If one goes to review websites and looks at all the graphics and all it is easy to be "fooled" into thinking the end result will be worls different. It's not, not when the final result is a few watts and couple decimals in delta.
> 
> HWLabs has ONE very unique radiator, that is the GTS line. Those things outperform way above it's class but also are very restrictive. I would have went all GTS since the price is nice but would end up with a very restrictive loop since I'd end up with 3 x 360 + 480... So I didn't.


Ah man, you just contradicted yourself here. The relatively higher flow restriction of radiators is nothing compared to blocks in a loop anyway. Take Watercool's own MORA3 series, which seem restrictive by itself but when you compare it to two quad radiators or even a CPU/GPU block, it seems just fine.


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah man, you just contradicted yourself here. The relatively higher flow restriction of radiators is nothing compared to blocks in a loop anyway. Take Watercool's own MORA3 series, which seem restrictive by itself but when you compare it to two quad radiators or even a CPU/GPU block, it seems just fine.


Not quite.

At 1GPM, one single GTS 360 restricts 0,91 PSI.

3 x GTS 360 will be 2,73 PSI

Now add the GTS 480 and you would have about a 4PSI drop on the rads alone...

A MO-RA2 420 restricts 1.5PSI at 1GPM.....

Even the Swiftech blocks do not restrict as much, only about 2.5 PSI....

4PSI on the rads alone would be too much personaly, adding a single GPU and a CPU block you could easily hit what? 6..7? More depending on the blocks. I'm not even considering 90 degree fittings and other restriction generating things on our loops.

A single D5 puts out about 4.5 PSI at 1GPM. Are we arguing for a dual Dual D5?

Yes, I have one but I do not think having two pumps working hard would be beneficial its not really called for, not when it can be avoided and I have the space for other rads (Parvum L1.0)

One can argue if 1GPM is really needed, but that is another discussion.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> Not quite.
> 
> At 1GPM, one single GTS 360 restricts 0,91 PSI.
> 
> 3 x GTS 360 will be 2,73 PSI
> 
> Now add the GTS 480 and you would have about a 4PSI drop on the rads alone...
> 
> A MO-RA2 420 restricts 1.5PSI at 1GPM.....
> 
> Even the Swiftech blocks do not restrict as much, only about 2.5 PSI....
> 
> 4PSI on the rads alone would be too much personaly, adding a single GPU and a CPU block you could easily hit what? 6..7? More depending on the blocks. I'm not even considering 90 degree fittings and other restriction generating things on our loops.
> 
> A single D5 puts out about 4.5 PSI at 1GPM. Are we arguing for a dual Dual D5?
> 
> Yes, I have one but I do not think having two pumps working hard would be beneficial its not really called for, not when it can be avoided and I have the space for other rads (Parvum L1.0)
> 
> One can argue if 1GPM is really needed, but that is another discussion.


Why would you have 3 x 360 + 480 mm in radiators though? That's like saying I can have a dual socket motherboard and get two CPU blocks, and 4 GPU blocks and at that point one might as well get dual pumps because logic is out of the window


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why would you have 3 x 360 + 480 mm in radiators though? That's like saying I can have a dual socket motherboard and get two CPU blocks, and 4 GPU blocks and at that point one might as well get dual pumps because logic is out of the window


Well... OCD, the case allows for that exact configuration so I "had to" fill it up. And like I said the rads did come very cheap so I figured why not...

Maybe it helps me in the summer (30c ambient temp sometimes).

Initially I was going to build this WC rig around my Threadripper 1950x, but since that system is running important data and work I decided to keep it air cooled... I now have an unused Threadripper block from Heatkiller (nickel)...lol. Will have to sell it....

I have since decided to go with an Intel 7920X and rebuild my "gaming/WC" rig, got it for 750€ new... figured why not. Should overclock pretty well and keep me entertained tweaking a new system to spec on the weekends.

I intend to delid it sometime in the future. Those things get very hot from what I read... Just ordered a Heatkiller block for that too.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I used those magicool radiators originally in my loop. 3/4 eventually cracked along the polycarb section, and the 4th arrived already cracked. Too bad, they were beautiful and performed well.
> 
> The AquaComputer rads are also absolutely gorgeous but unfortunately they perform very poorly and cost entirely too much to justify buying it for looks alone.


While it's true that they scale terribly with high fan speeds, at low rpms they are among the very best. Plus, it's not only looks, but also incredible quality. But I digress... I've been extremely happy with my AMS rads and if they weren't so obscenely expensive I'd probably stack three 420 copper rads instead of buying a Mo-Ra3.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> In a sense i guess one could say i'm biased, but i'd like to think i can be that without losing focus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that said?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> - RPM =>2000 category:
> Anyone currently going for high RPM rads has precious few options and is statistically speaking at least going to end up with a Hardware Labs Nemesis (the reincarnation of the former Black Ice).
> No offense to anyone from down there, wherever that is, but personally? I honestly wish there was a local, EU equivalent. Support my own, get the same performance, plus all the boni from having someone i can actually communicate with should i need to. We're talking about literally this one rad.. exceptions applying, bit of competition there should be good for both sides. Us and you guys. This is a chunk of the market that has not seen much in terms of alternatives. Added bonus that snatching a "Performance Award" within it would always carry you onwards, even to other, unrelated categories (good PR). Not very hard to go for a performance award when you've only got one opponent.
> 
> - 800<= RPM <=1500 category:
> Welcome to the show... you have everyone and their mother competing within it. Barring exceptional performance, surprisingly low price or "aesthetics", you'll be looking at a long, long way up; if ever. Aesthetics might save you, unfortunately such is the market today, RGB gives 23 extra FPS and tempered glass about 8 more. It's a viable approach (again, unfortunately), but a shallow one. Sooner or later it will cost you. Has to others.
> 
> - <= 800RPM category:
> You plus a couple more companies (one of which being very but very near you ^^). Much easier to make a name for you there. Why?
> Size rules out one company almost out of the box, their rads just don't fit in most cases. The others are from across the ocean, so you'll definitely be able to compete with them, as your prices should be noticeably lower, locally anyway. A good place to start, but with a minimum growth potential. The chunk is in the middle for most, vying against each other, or at the top, with pretty much a monopoly.
> 
> 
> Results/conclusions self-evident.
> 
> (as always, just my opinion)


Thanks for the input. It's definitely worth taking into consideration!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MNMadman*
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> My preferred feature set for radiators is simple:
> 
> Copper tubes and fins (tanks too, but I suppose brass is acceptable for those)
> 45mm and 60mm thicknesses
> 120mm and 140mm fan sizes
> Four or more inlet/outlet ports
> Bleed/drain port at opposite end
> Optimized for high fan speed


Thanks for that list! It's a good tool to tick off boxes







I'm currently collecting all the suggestions/demands from all different forums and social media and see which ones pile up. To directly answer to your list:

Copper tubes, ALuminum fins. Copper fins are just TOO expensive. Heard the idea multiple times, though, so maybe we'll do a limited special edition sometime?
The 30/45/60 standard comes from ONE factory in China where ~75% of the global flat tube radiators are mass produced. Our radiators are NOT produced there. We want to offer our OWN product. So, we are free to design the thickness that WE see fit and that performs best.
120mm and 140mm. Check.
Two Inlets, two outlets. Check.
We don't operate with an end tank, but with round tubes. So there is no port, since there is no tank.
Hotly debated as of now








I'll add a box to tick: NO FLUX in the whole radiator! NO soldering residues AT ALL.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sig0431*
> 
> I have looked over their website but wanted to check with you all lastly. Is there any HeatKiller support for MSI GTX 1070 Gaming-X? I have a Phanteks Glacier 1080 that is causing me issues and they have already had to send me a replacement. I am using a HeatKiller res in my build and love their products so I would love to get a GPU block for my card as well from them.


Please see http://gpu.watercool.de to always check for our compatibility. That card is a custom layout, so it is not compatible with any of our blocks, unfortunately.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheArkratos*
> 
> On topic though, I wonder if something completely different would be a good idea for a product? No one has done a non rectangular radiator, yet fans are circles. And the center of the fan is always a dead zone. Call me crazy but I wonder if you had the inlet to the radiator at the center (behind the fan hub) if it would act like a jet plate does for cpu blocks. I'm just brainstorming stupid stuff, but I'm all for market innovation.


That "dead zone" at the center of the fans is relatively irrelevant. The "loss" of cooling capacity is within the fractions of a degree - usually less than the margin of error in any test setup. Designing the inlet to that specific spot, on the other hand, would require extremely complicated procedures, so it would make the overall product extremely expensive.

Love the discussion that's going on! Very entertaining and educating at the same time! Keep it going, folks


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> I'll add a box to tick: NO FLUX in the whole radiator! NO soldering residues AT ALL.


That's awesome, but usually comes with a caveat ^^

So while, again, this is awesome to hear, can you please expand on the how/material used?

(i will remind you that often enough, expectations are shaped by current facts. And currently, there is only one kind of rad category that has no flux. A category that is rather lacking, performance-wise. Well, compared to its bigger siblings anyhow)

* edit: and unrelated, but as i said in the +rep box, you're doing a good job as a rep. You and Shoggy are my two favorite ones, lol


----------



## nickbaldwin86

I am in love with this GPU block:


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> 
> The 30/45/60 standard comes from ONE factory in China where ~75% of the global flat tube radiators are mass produced. Our radiators are NOT produced there. We want to offer our OWN product. So, we are free to design the thickness that WE see fit and that performs best.


You're not using Hooray as a rad provider? Any info on who you'll be using then?


----------



## iamjanco

Jakob, quick question: do you see any updates occurring to the MO-RA3 line in the relatively near future? @Watercool-Jakob


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> That's awesome, but usually comes with a caveat ^^
> So while, again, this is awesome to hear, can you please expand on the how/material used?
> 
> (i will remind you that often enough, expectations are shaped by current facts. And currently, there is only one kind of rad category that has no flux. A category that is rather lacking, performance-wise. Well, compared to its bigger siblings anyhow)
> 
> * edit: and unrelated, but as i said in the +rep box, you're doing a good job as a rep. You and Shoggy are my two favorite ones, lol


Hm, I don't want to share all of our development steps with our competitors







The inner layout is based on the MO-RA3 cores, but a evolutionary next step from there. Materials in the flow path are only copper and POM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paprika*
> 
> You're not using Hooray as a rad provider? Any info on who you'll be using then?


Hehe. Also look at their reservoirs, and then look at some of the big global players in this industry, both american and european...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Jakob, quick question: do you see any updates occurring to the MO-RA3 line in the relatively near future? @Watercool-Jakob


Quick answer: no.
Long answer: we do have lists with customer suggestions and improvements for EVERY product that we make. Of course, there's also a list for the MO-RA3. Plus, the MO-RA3 was introduced in 2010 - so a general overhaul is due. But we have a lot of other, more pressing topics on our to do list before that, so I wouldn't wait for a possible MO-RA4 - it might easily be a LONG wait.


----------



## Paprika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hehe. Also look at their reservoirs, and then look at some of the big global players in this industry, both american and european...


Oh I'm well aware.








There's also the factory who makes Barrow/EK rads..


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Quick answer: no.
> Long answer: we do have lists with customer suggestions and improvements for EVERY product that we make. Of course, there's also a list for the MO-RA3. Plus, the MO-RA3 was introduced in 2010 - so a general overhaul is due. But we have a lot of other, more pressing topics on our to do list before that, so I wouldn't wait for a possible MO-RA4 - it might easily be a LONG wait.


Thanks for the status update, Jakob!


----------



## MNMadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Materials in the flow path are only copper and POM.


Copper and POM, with no end tank? Color me intrigued. If you need testers with high-heat builds keep me in mind.

Oh, and another thing -- different colors would be appreciated.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> **SNIP**
> 
> *[*] Copper tubes, ALuminum fins. Copper fins are just TOO expensive. Heard the idea multiple times, though, so maybe we'll do a limited special edition sometime?*
> [*] The 30/45/60 standard comes from ONE factory in China where ~75% of the global flat tube radiators are mass produced. Our radiators are NOT produced there. We want to offer our OWN product. So, we are free to design the thickness that WE see fit and that performs best.
> [*] 120mm and 140mm. Check.
> [*] Two Inlets, two outlets. Check.
> [*] We don't operate with an end tank, but with round tubes. So there is no port, since there is no tank.
> [*] Hotly debated as of now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [*] I'll add a box to tick: NO FLUX in the whole radiator! NO soldering residues AT ALL.
> 
> Love the discussion that's going on! Very entertaining and educating at the same time! Keep it going, folks


Love the list, and potential features.

I'd certainly be willing to pay extra for copper fins though.
That was what made the copper fin version of the *cough* Aquacomputer* rads look so outstanding, along with the removable stainless steel side panels.

However, if the extra cost of using copper is really prohibitive, I can understand the use of aluminum for the fins.
A limited edition would be cool (pardon the pun, lol).

One other thing comes to mind, threaded steel inserts for the rad [Edit] "fan" screws, of a decent thickness, such as M4 or 6-32.
Much better than the punched-out threading of the thin steel that you see on mainstream rads.
I suspect you already have decided to use inserts though.


----------



## SavantStrike

So I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of GPU blocks. Do I get the RGB XS strips or the VGA red strips?

Has anyone got pics of a heatkiller that's been lit up?


----------



## VileLasagna

You can always set the RGB to plain red if you later decide that's the better option


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> So I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of GPU blocks. Do I get the RGB XS strips or the VGA red strips?
> 
> Has anyone got pics of a heatkiller that's been lit up?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VileLasagna*
> 
> You can always set the RGB to plain red if you later decide that's the better option


Agreed, get the RGB XS strips, it gives you more options along with being able to go only red, and probably at varying shades also...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> So I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of GPU blocks. Do I get the RGB XS strips or the VGA red strips?
> 
> Has anyone got pics of a heatkiller that's been lit up?


Here's mine lit up


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Here's mine lit up
> 
> [*img]https://i.imgur.com/W2P5s7t.jpg[/img]


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> So I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of GPU blocks. Do I get the RGB XS strips or the VGA red strips?
> 
> Has anyone got pics of a heatkiller that's been lit up?


Worth noting: with the FTW block (that John is showing here), the LED strip went almost over the full lenght of the PCB. It is placed between the window and the PCIe connector. With all other Pascal GTX cards, the strip is placed 90° to that, under the small POM terminal below the power connector:

So the lighting pattern is slightly different.

Also, the cables between the single color and the RGB strip differ- Please see this very professional sketch I just did










The cables are routed out through a small slit in the acrylic plate. the single color ones have short cables and connect directly to the header on the card, so there is no wiring outside of the card necessary. The RGB strips come with a ~40cm long cable that you'll have to route out of the card and then over the Motherboard to a motherboard RGB header or a third party controller.

Edit: Starting with RX Vega, we revised the system:


The strip is placed as shown by redgreenblue, and the cable routed through the back of the card. Plus, the strip can be installed or changed while the block is still mounted: all parts of strip placing can be done when the stainless steel front screen is uninstalled. So maintenance is MUCH easier than with the previous system. Also, we have an extra strip just for Vega cards


----------



## SavantStrike

Oh there we go, I think the RGB is going to be the way I go. I was debating not doing it, but if I'm buying direct any ways,I might as well take advantage of the opportunity.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I honestly had no idea the GPU blocks came in RGB versions. I need to look into this now. Anyone know if any are available in the US yet?


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I honestly had no idea the GPU blocks came in RGB versions. I need to look into this now. Anyone know if any are available in the US yet?


The blocks are the same that have always been. It's just that watercool now offers the Optional led strips in RGB form.

@Watercool-Jakob

What would be the difference between the "extra vega strip" you linked and the standard XS RGB when it comes to the Vega block?

I'm asking because the XS strip mentions compatibility with the Vega block. And that is the one I purchased so I am now wondering if this is the right one. Have yet to install.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@The L33t I figured the blocks are the same, there wasn't any confusion or a question there. I just had no idea they came with RGB lights now.

My question still stands because I didn't see them before; Anyone know if any are available in the US yet?


----------



## The L33t

Since the item is very small your probably better off ordering from watercool directly and choosing to ship it via letter (low shipping cost).

From what I've seen, the usual suspects (USA and Canada VENDORS) they take a good bit of time to stock anything new from watercool. And none of them have it for now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> Since the item is very small your probably better off ordering from watercool directly and choosing to ship it via letter (low shipping cost).
> 
> From what I've seen, the usual suspects (USA and Canada VENDORS) they take a good bit of time to stock anything new from watercool. And none of them have it for now.


This.

I picked up some of the led strips for my Titan block and Heatkiller Reservoir directly from Watercool on my previous order with them, but as The L33t said, they will ship small orders by letter (post) for a very reasonable shipping cost.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

In regards to the topic on fan speeds... While I used to be all about faster fan speeds, I'll take a slight hit to performance but run slower, in the 1000-1200 or 1200-1500rpm categories... One gets decent performance, but nowhere near the noise.


----------



## Section31

Look forward to your future products. Your products are very high quality and reliable. I just installed your X299 Apex vrm block with my previous intel heatkiller iv pro cpu block. It installed without no issues compared to the EKWB Monoblock and I got about 3-5% drop in cpu temperatures. My system is almost all heatkiller products now, would look to eventually add your future radiators (using hwl gtr and gtx360 radiators atm) in future builds.

I had lot of bad experiences with EKWB with leaking reservoirs and radiators(due to damaged g1/4 threads). I even had installation issues like the alumnum heatsink on back of apex motherboard vrm not working with the monoblock. My friends predator aio have had either leaks or the included pump is insufficient to cool an psu and gpu (had to order and use laing/swiftech ddc pump instead). Recently tried the LianLi Bora 120 RGB fans,very good fans and just of them at high brightness will light up the whole caselabs s8 case.


----------



## Aenra

@Section31 is that the Heatkiller 100 or 150 res in there? Was wondering about clearance.

And a second question if you don't mind, because it's not very clear from the pic. Which stand do you have it mounted on?

This, http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230

Or this, http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30231 ?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> The blocks are the same that have always been. It's just that watercool now offers the Optional led strips in RGB form.
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> What would be the difference between the "extra vega strip" you linked and the standard XS RGB when it comes to the Vega block?
> 
> I'm asking because the XS strip mentions compatibility with the Vega block. And that is the one I purchased so I am now wondering if this is the right one. Have yet to install.


The Vega specific strip is 10mm wide. We designed the Vega card to house this strip.
The other, general RGB strips are only 8mm wide and hence fit in many different products.

/Edit: OOps, regarding the availability issue: we are working with both https://modmymods.com/ and http://www.performance-pcs.com/ to improve our ordering and delivering processes with them, so that our products arrive with them earalier, faster, and more frequently. As of now, neither has stocked on RGB strips, so you'd have to order them from us directly. As already stated, we offer a letter shipping for small parts for 7,95€ (no tracking, no insurance, usual runtime 4-10 business days).


----------



## The L33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> The Vega specific strip is 10mm wide. We designed the Vega card to house this strip.
> The other, general RGB strips are only 8mm wide and hence fit in many different products.


Now you have me intrigued. How different would the effect be in reallty? Since I made the "mistake" of going with the 8mm one









I guess I'm buying a new strip soon lol.

Other question, regarding the Barrow fittings. Will you be stocking 12mm hard line ones? Any specific models? You mentioned premium fittings but I can't find any info about any premium line. All seem the same.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The L33t*
> 
> Now you have me intrigued. How different would the effect be in reallty? Since I made the "mistake" of going with the 8mm one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I'm buying a new strip soon lol.
> 
> Other question, regarding the Barrow fittings. Will you be stocking 12mm hard line ones? Any specific models? You mentioned premium fittings but I can't find any info about any premium line. All seem the same.


Strip: No. for the customer it's essentially the same. When we designed the Vega block, there were no RGB strips smaller than 10mm available, so we had to order those. Later this year, first manufacturers were able to produce the smaller PCB width with RGB components. Since the Tube strut defines the maximum PCB width, we had to wait till someone could make a strip in that width.
So, you are absolutely fine, it has more to do with our stock management than anything else









Re Barrowe: yes, we will have 12mm and 16mm Hardtube fittings and 3/8"ID X 1/2"OD and 3/8"ID X 5/8"OD compression fittings. It'll be this style of Hardtube fittings:


----------



## TheAbyss

Lovely! Had to Import those 16mm HT Fittings recently... now that I have planned my Revision of my Loop, I wished I had bought more... could be that they are available when I actualy pull the plug on my System and rebuild it... or just ship the first 20 Fittings to Hannover....


----------



## BucketInABucket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Re Barrowe: yes, we will have 12mm and 16mm Hardtube fittings and 3/8"ID X 1/2"OD and 3/8"ID X 5/8"OD compression fittings. It'll be this style of Hardtube fittings:


Why not the newer barrow style fittings with 3 orings instead of two?


----------



## Eatdamuffin

Anyone know where I can get the multiport top and basic mounting kit in the USA right now? They seem to be sold out everywhere. I can buy the basic 150 tube res but I need the other parts.


----------



## MNMadman

Eatdamuffin said:


> Anyone know where I can get the multiport top and basic mounting kit in the USA right now? They seem to be sold out everywhere. I can buy the basic 150 tube res but I need the other parts.


I ordered from their site directly, as they were the only ones who had all of the parts I wanted.

What I ordered:
Heatkiller IV Pro TR4 Ni-Bl
Heatkiller IV Titan Xp w/ Backplate
Heatkiller Tube 150 w/ MultiPort Top & Basic Mounting Kit & 120mm Adapters
WCP D5-Vario w/ Heatkiller D5-Top

Ordered Sunday, order was closed yesterday. Haven't gotten any updates since.


----------



## Aenra

Lost everything with the forum switch, re-subscribing


----------



## Section31

Aenra said:


> @Section31 is that the Heatkiller 100 or 150 res in there? Was wondering about clearance.
> 
> And a second question if you don't mind, because it's not very clear from the pic. Which stand do you have it mounted on?
> 
> This, http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230
> 
> Or this, http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30231 ?


It is the 150 reservoir using the long stand(double sided velcro to hold it down). I suspect the basic mounting will work with the bracket even better. If you look on caselabs site, the 200 reservoir will even fit but will be extremely tight or require the 39mm extended top.

if you are following mine you will have descent amount of clearance. I am using the 39mm extended top and it wasn't near that.


----------



## SavantStrike

@Watercool-Jakob 

Did water cool produce a stainless backplate for the 1080TI/Titan xP, or was that only for older gen cards. I haven't been able to dig up anything on this from the site or from the store.

If there was no stainless backplate, is the watercool logo on the black anodized backplate a sticker, or is it painted on? If it's a sticker, do you sell the stickers separately?

I'm looking very seriously at getting the black anodized and stripping the anodization so it more closely resembles the stainless front of the copper/acrylic version of the block. I'll either do a brushed finish or a polished one if I go that route. I need to try and preserve the logo though.


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, the VGA LED strip should be able to connect to the Titan Xp pcb correct? I don't want to risk plugging things in and burning something out from not asking first 

I currently have a Heatkiller IV vga block and the white led and want to transfer it from my EVGA 1080 Ti SC Gaming to a Titan Xp.

Thanks!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

chibi said:


> Hey guys, the VGA LED strip should be able to connect to the Titan Xp pcb correct? I don't want to risk plugging things in and burning something out from not asking first
> 
> I currently have a Heatkiller IV vga block and the white led and want to transfer it from my EVGA 1080 Ti SC Gaming to a Titan Xp.
> 
> Thanks!


dont have the instructions in front of me but I do remember them being in there and saying where to plug it into on the PCB, I would assume you can only reach one port so it should be pretty straight forward.


----------



## chibi

nickbaldwin86 said:


> dont have the instructions in front of me but I do remember them being in there and saying where to plug it into on the PCB, I would assume you can only reach one port so it should be pretty straight forward.


Thanks, I just googled the TXp pcb and it does indeed have one 2-pin connector which I assume is for the Heatkiller VGA led strip. My only gripe is that when I had it installed in my 1080Ti, the "white" led strip had more of a blue/purple hue to it when compared to my mobo LEDs. Is there another strip I can try to get a more accurate white to sync with my Asus Maximus X Apex system board?


----------



## nickbaldwin86

chibi said:


> Thanks, I just googled the TXp pcb and it does indeed have one 2-pin connector which I assume is for the Heatkiller VGA led strip. My only gripe is that when I had it installed in my 1080Ti, the "white" led strip had more of a blue/purple hue to it when compared to my mobo LEDs. Is there another strip I can try to get a more accurate white to sync with my Asus Maximus X Apex system board?


you can buy and solder on the connector to any LED strip. 

https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-Water...TF8&qid=1516999616&sr=8-16&keywords=led+strip

Course need to find a strip that is the right width but you can cut them down to any length


----------



## Jyve

Section31 said:


> 
> 
> I had lot of bad experiences with EKWB with leaking reservoirs and radiators(due to damaged g1/4 threads). I even had installation issues like the alumnum heatsink on back of apex motherboard vrm not working with the monoblock. My friends predator aio have had either leaks or the included pump is insufficient to cool an psu and gpu (had to order and use laing/swiftech ddc pump instead). Recently tried the LianLi Bora 120 RGB fans,very good fans and just of them at high brightness will light up the whole caselabs s8 case.


That's a bummer about your friends predator. Lots of leaking issues. I got lucky. Twice. Neither my og or my recall rma unit leaked. 

I have to disagree with you about the pump though. I used a predator 240 to cool an oc 4690k and 980ti and the pump did a fine job with it. More than tolerable temps considering its a single 240 rad but the pump was not an issue at all. 

It is more likely the pump he had was defective in some way.


----------



## Barefooter

*Watercool-Jakob* do you have any confirmation yet if the "Heatkiller MB-X VRM Asus Rampage VI Apex Product no. 1156" is compatible with the Rampage VI Extreme motherboard as well as the Apex?
This one http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...wObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/11561


I know this came up awhile back. I'm ready to pick one up if it fits.


----------



## JLMS2010

Eatdamuffin said:


> Anyone know where I can get the multiport top and basic mounting kit in the USA right now? They seem to be sold out everywhere. I can buy the basic 150 tube res but I need the other parts.


Check modmymods.com


----------



## iamjanco

Jakob, looks like everything I'd like to order is in stock at your end, and given the size of the order it will ship FedEx Intl Economy free of charge. Figured it wouldn't hurt to get a confirmation from you first before pushing the button:



Spoiler















@Watercool-Jakob

I'll be using D5s (a total of 4) in 2x EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial tops to push water through the setup I've got planned (two loops).


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey everybody,
welcome back on board! Seems like the initial shock of the new forum layout settled in, hu? Finally we got some traffic in this thread again 


BucketInABucket said:


> 
> Why not the newer barrow style fittings with 3 orings instead of two?


We talked to some resellers about their experience with Barrows and were told that these are the more popular version. Since we don't want to stock the full and complete Barrow lineup, we had to narrow down our focus somewhere...




SavantStrike said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Did water cool produce a stainless backplate for the 1080TI/Titan xP, or was that only for older gen cards. I haven't been able to dig up anything on this from the site or from the store.
> 
> If there was no stainless backplate, is the watercool logo on the black anodized backplate a sticker, or is it painted on? If it's a sticker, do you sell the stickers separately?
> 
> I'm looking very seriously at getting the black anodized and stripping the anodization so it more closely resembles the stainless front of the copper/acrylic version of the block. I'll either do a brushed finish or a polished one if I go that route. I need to try and preserve the logo though.


No, there is no stainless steel backplate for Pascal cards. The last card that we made stainless steel backplates for was Titan X (Maxwell). 
The Heatkiller logo is laserengraved into a small batch of steel which is then glued in place. You could remove it with some glue remover, pliers and patience, I guess. Be aware that the backplate is made from aluminum, not steel. So it will always look very distinguishely different from the stainless steel front cover. 



chibi said:


> Hey guys, the VGA LED strip should be able to connect to the Titan Xp pcb correct? I don't want to risk plugging things in and burning something out from not asking first
> 
> I currently have a Heatkiller IV vga block and the white led and want to transfer it from my EVGA 1080 Ti SC Gaming to a Titan Xp.
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, it connects to the 2Pin header directly on the graphics card's PCB.



chibi said:


> Thanks, I just googled the TXp pcb and it does indeed have one 2-pin connector which I assume is for the Heatkiller VGA led strip. My only gripe is that when I had it installed in my 1080Ti, the "white" led strip had more of a blue/purple hue to it when compared to my mobo LEDs. Is there another strip I can try to get a more accurate white to sync with my Asus Maximus X Apex system board?





nickbaldwin86 said:


> you can buy and solder on the connector to any LED strip.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-Water...TF8&qid=1516999616&sr=8-16&keywords=led+strip
> 
> Course need to find a strip that is the right width but you can cut them down to any length


Unfortunately, there are a ton of different shades of "white" LEDs out there. We know that it can be frustrating when different strips don't line up perfectly with each other. We had a few different samples here and decided for what was the most "neutral" in our opinion. 
The grooves in our products for LED montage are for 8mm wide strips.



Barefooter said:


> *Watercool-Jakob* do you have any confirmation yet if the "Heatkiller MB-X VRM Asus Rampage VI Apex Product no. 1156" is compatible with the Rampage VI Extreme motherboard as well as the Apex?
> This one http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...wObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/11561
> 
> I know this came up awhile back. I'm ready to pick one up if it fits.


No, no final confirmation yet. We are 95% sure, though. We have on customer who'll get his block today who'll try it on the EXTREME. As soon as I heard back from him, I'll let you know. 
But as I said, we expect it to fit perfectly.



iamjanco said:


> Jakob, looks like everything I'd like to order is in stock at your end, and given the size of the order it will ship FedEx Intl Economy free of charge. Figured it wouldn't hurt to get a confirmation from you first before pushing the button:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I'll be using D5s (a total of 4) in 2x EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial tops to push water through the setup I've got planned (two loops).


Yup, all in stock. Just a heads up: you only selected one set of feet for two MO-RAs. You plan to mount the second rad differently? Or just oversaw the second set of feet?


----------



## catbuster

With all this forum madness i must have missed it. When do u plan start selling barrow fittings? Would be nice to save on shipping and get blocks/fittings from your shop.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

catbuster said:


> With all this forum madness i must have missed it. When do u plan start selling barrow fittings? Would be nice to save on shipping and get blocks/fittings from your shop.


Can't really say. We ordered almost 50kg of fittings from them, and they take some time to produce it all. So, between they're production time plus shipping plus us sorting them and setting up the shop, my best guess right now is that they'll be available in the shop ~beginning of March. I'll keep you updated


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yup, all in stock. Just a heads up: you only selected one set of feet for two MO-RAs. You plan to mount the second rad differently? Or just oversaw the second set of feet?


I plan on stacking the two vertically (unless there's a reason not to), though it might not hurt to add in a second set of feet just in case. I'll add that to the list before ordering.

I've seen them vertically stacked by others, but let me know if you advise against it for some reason.

Thanks, Jakob


----------



## Barefooter

iamjanco said:


> I plan on stacking the two vertically (unless there's a reason not to), though it might not hurt to add in a second set of feet just in case. I'll add that to the list before ordering.
> 
> I've seen them vertically stacked by others, but let me know if you advise against it for some reason.
> 
> Thanks, Jakob


Two MO-RAs stacked! Can't wait to see that :thumb:


----------



## SavantStrike

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, there is no stainless steel backplate for Pascal cards. The last card that we made stainless steel backplates for was Titan X (Maxwell).
> The Heatkiller logo is laserengraved into a small batch of steel which is then glued in place. You could remove it with some glue remover, pliers and patience, I guess. Be aware that the backplate is made from aluminum, not steel. So it will always look very distinguishely different from the stainless steel front cover.


In that case I'll be stuck with an aluminum back plate. Depending on the level of polish on the stainless I might be able to polish the aluminum enough that they both look similar if under case lighting. 

What size are the screw threads on the block for when I cobble something together? Are they 2.5mm?


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Hey everybody,
> We talked to some resellers about their experience with Barrows and were told that these are the more popular version. Since we don't want to stock the full and complete Barrow lineup, we had to narrow down our focus somewhere...


Makes sense, thanks for answering!


----------



## iamjanco

Jakob, I got as far as Paypal after I started processing the order, but Paypal was dropping my shipping street address. When I attempted to add that via Paypal, I received a message that the address Paypal had was what they received from your store and that if I wanted to change it, I'd have to go back to the store and change it there. So I did that, but couldn't find a way to make payment on the pending order after that. 

I also received the pending order in email form from the store.

Help, Cecil, Help! (ref. Beany & Cecil) 

@Watercool-Jakob

Edited: I also just noted that when switching to my account and viewing the order the root address for your shop changed from watercool.de to https://sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf That may be who you're using to process orders, but I changed both my Paypal and Watercool passwords to be on the safe side because of that (please let me know if you're using sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf).


----------



## Revan654

It's been awhile Since I placed an order from WaterCool Webstore. Whats the average time frame for getting Tracking Number for Fed-Ex? My order status is now closed (It's complete). My Fed-Ex account hasn't anything listed as of now for orders.


----------



## MNMadman

Revan654 said:


> It's been awhile Since I placed an order from WaterCool Webstore. Whats the average time frame for getting Tracking Number for Fed-Ex? My order status is now closed (It's complete). My Fed-Ex account hasn't anything listed as of now for orders.


Order processing is normally two days or so. However, they had people out sick and an unusual number of orders last week so there is a backlog.


----------



## Eatdamuffin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Can't really say. We ordered almost 50kg of fittings from them, and they take some time to produce it all. So, between they're production time plus shipping plus us sorting them and setting up the shop, my best guess right now is that they'll be available in the shop ~beginning of March. I'll keep you updated


Hey quick question: Will the Heatkiller D5 Top be able to screw in with a D5 Bitspower Pump Cover on my Swiftech pump?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

iamjanco said:


> I plan on stacking the two vertically (unless there's a reason not to), though it might not hurt to add in a second set of feet just in case. I'll add that to the list before ordering.
> 
> I've seen them vertically stacked by others, but let me know if you advise against it for some reason.
> 
> Thanks, Jakob


I've never seen them stacked, and I'd highly advise against it. Please also see this sketch: you're planning to put a 47cm high body on an only 6.5cm wide standing area, while it contains more than 1liter of moving liquid. To me, this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Maybe, the other examples that you are referencing used the wall mounts? With those, you can hang the MO-RA safely on the wall (which is how I did it with my private rig, btw) above the other one. Maybe even use two wallmounts and hang them next to each other?




SavantStrike said:


> In that case I'll be stuck with an aluminum back plate. Depending on the level of polish on the stainless I might be able to polish the aluminum enough that they both look similar if under case lighting.
> 
> What size are the screw threads on the block for when I cobble something together? Are they 2.5mm?


I talked this through with my boss. We could just send you a non-anodized backplate in raw aluminum and the sticker uninstalled. That way, you could work on it as you wish and wouldn't have to go through the stripping step. Please send me an email to [email protected] if you'd be interested in that. 

The mounting threads in our GPU blocks are M3.




iamjanco said:


> Jakob, I got as far as Paypal after I started processing the order, but Paypal was dropping my shipping street address. When I attempted to add that via Paypal, I received a message that the address Paypal had was what they received from your store and that if I wanted to change it, I'd have to go back to the store and change it there. So I did that, but couldn't find a way to make payment on the pending order after that.
> 
> I also received the pending order in email form from the store.
> 
> Help, Cecil, Help! (ref. Beany & Cecil)
> 
> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Edited: I also just noted that when switching to my account and viewing the order the root address for your shop changed from watercool.de to https://sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf That may be who you're using to process orders, but I changed both my Paypal and Watercool passwords to be on the safe side because of that (please let me know if you're using sage-shop.com/epages/WatercooleK.sf).


The sage-shop url is correct. That is our shop script. 
Regarding your order: to check on an order, I need the order number. Otherwise, I don't know which order to check 



Revan654 said:


> It's been awhile Since I placed an order from WaterCool Webstore. Whats the average time frame for getting Tracking Number for Fed-Ex? My order status is now closed (It's complete). My Fed-Ex account hasn't anything listed as of now for orders.


The status update "closed" means that the order details were transferred from the shop script to the shipping script. The customer cannot make any changes to the order by themselves, hence "closed". The wording is pretty bad, but it's hardcoded to the shopscript and cannot be changed -.-
Please provide your order number, then I'll check it and tell you about its status.



Eatdamuffin said:


> Hey quick question: Will the Heatkiller D5 Top be able to screw in with a D5 Bitspower Pump Cover on my Swiftech pump?


We don't know. We haven't tested it yet, and Bitspower doesn't provide a lot of data about that cover. Judging from the available pictures online, we doubt that it will be compatible.


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I've never seen them stacked, and I'd highly advise against it. Please also see this sketch: you're planning to put a 47cm high body on an only 6.5cm wide standing area, while it contains more than 1liter of moving liquid. To me, this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Maybe, the other examples that you are referencing used the wall mounts? With those, you can hang the MO-RA safely on the wall (which is how I did it with my private rig, btw) above the other one. Maybe even use two wallmounts and hang them next to each other?
> 
> The sage-shop url is correct. That is our shop script.
> Regarding your order: to check on an order, I need the order number. Otherwise, I don't know which order to check


Thanks for the thorough response, Jakob. I have seen them stacked somewhere secured one on top of the other with brackets, but now can't locate where (likely here, on the old version of OCN). They might have been the smaller 360s though. That said, I certainly understand the physics of stacking the two vertically and will use a somewhat different arrangement to stack the two 420s, using an extruded aluminum framework that I'll put together that should certainly be secure enough. 

I also received a Paypal payment request from you guys for *order no. 8072*, thanks for looking into that. Any chance I could add two sets of wall brackets for the two 420s to the order and get an updated Paypal request? It would be much appreciated.


----------



## Revan654

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The status update "closed" means that the order details were transferred from the shop script to the shipping script. The customer cannot make any changes to the order by themselves, hence "closed". The wording is pretty bad, but it's hardcoded to the shopscript and cannot be changed -.-
> Please provide your order number, then I'll check it and tell you about its status.


Atlease the status changed, my last two orders stopped updating at Paid.

I guess it's ok to post order number here: 8059


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for the thorough response, Jakob. I have seen them stacked somewhere secured one on top of the other with brackets, but now can't locate where (likely here, on the old version of OCN). They might have been the smaller 360s though. That said, I certainly understand the physics of stacking the two vertically and will use a somewhat different arrangement to stack the two 420s, using an extruded aluminum framework that I'll put together that should certainly be secure enough.
> 
> I also received a Paypal payment request from you guys for *order no. 8072*, thanks for looking into that. Any chance I could add two sets of wall brackets for the two 420s to the order and get an updated Paypal request? It would be much appreciated.


So I just got the cancellation notice from Paypal for the Payment Request, but no further instructions.

Btw, found the missing image of the stacked dual MO-RA3 setup. It's supposedly buried in the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery thread:



Spoiler


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Revan654 said:


> Atlease the status changed, my last two orders stopped updating at Paid.
> 
> I guess it's ok to post order number here: 8059


It's only one business day old. We didn't get to it today, because of the amount of orders you people are gifting us with  Will probably ship tomorrow or thursday.



iamjanco said:


> So I just got the cancellation notice from Paypal for the Payment Request, but no further instructions.


Yes. Since the order wasn't paid yet and you wanted changes added to it (and I figured, if you want to add the wall mounts, you might want to substract the feet...?), the easisest way is to simply place a new order with all items. That way, nothing can get lost on the way. The unpaid order will be ignored by the system, so don't worry about it.



> Btw, found the missing image of the stacked dual MO-RA3 setup. It's supposedly buried in the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery thread:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Oh wow, that looks impressive! I could get used to that sight... But my wife would most probably kill me  
Nevertheless, _ME_PERSONALLY_ wouldn't feel safe with a setup like this. I am clumsy, I have a clumsy wife and two kids. I'd be SUPER worried about it all tipping over without additional strenghtening / stiffeners. 



Barefooter said:


> *Watercool-Jakob* do you have any confirmation yet if the "Heatkiller MB-X VRM Asus Rampage VI Apex Product no. 1156" is compatible with the Rampage VI Extreme motherboard as well as the Apex?
> This one http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...wObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/11561
> 
> 
> I know this came up awhile back. I'm ready to pick one up if it fits.


HA! LOOK WHO'S BRINGING THE GOOD NEWS!!! THIS GUY!!!! *enthusiastically pointing at own face*
I just got confirmation from the brave guinea pig customer: the block works wonders on his Rampage VI EXTREME. He told me he had 109°C VRM temp with the stock heatsink. With our block, he got them up to 57°C - I'd say that's a nice temp drop alright 
To take the Aquantia chip in consideration, we bundle all MB-X for Rampage VI blocks with a passive heatsink from this morning on.


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> HA! LOOK WHO'S BRINGING THE GOOD NEWS!!! THIS GUY!!!! *enthusiastically pointing at own face*
> I just got confirmation from the brave guinea pig customer: the block works wonders on his Rampage VI EXTREME. He told me he had 109°C VRM temp with the stock heatsink. With our block, he got them up to 57°C - I'd say that's a nice temp drop alright
> To take the Aquantia chip in consideration, we bundle all MB-X for Rampage VI blocks with a passive heatsink from this morning on.


Awesome news! Thanks so much. I see you have already changed the description on your web page showing it is compatible with the Extreme board too :thumb:


----------



## JLMS2010

I'll join.


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes. Since the order wasn't paid yet and you wanted changes added to it (and I figured, if you want to add the wall mounts, you might want to substract the feet...?), the easisest way is to simply place a new order with all items. That way, nothing can get lost on the way. The unpaid order will be ignored by the system, so don't worry about it.


Thanks for the update, Jakob! I've built out an updated order and saved it in my account and will likely push the button tomorrow. Strongly thinking about adding that block for my RVIE to the list.

Edited: went ahead and ordered. I dropped two of the grills and added two sets of wall mounts, dropped the feet (I won't need them), and added the block for the RVIE VRM. Came out to slightly less than the original order with the changes 

Please use the shipping address in the invoice you sent as Paypal dropped the street address again. If need be give me a call via Skype tomorrow (the phone number associated with the order is also my Skype out number). Ich kann auch Schwäbisch schwätzen soll es müssen sein.

Now I just need to source the extruded alu for the framework.

Edited: @Watercool-Jakob: sent you a pm.


----------



## Abaidor

Well I think I can join too as I just received my first package from watercool.de

1) MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel with 2X Grills (took both designs so I can change whenever I get bored)
2) Heatkiller Tube 200 Reservoir + Multiport and RGB LED + several mounting accessories

If I knew that the VRM cooler works with the Asus Rampage VI Extreme I would have added one to the basket. I pretty much prefer this solution + a CPU block (probably heatkiller too) vs a monoblock option for better compatibility with delided CPUs (IHS height differences).

No images as I have not even got to the office to open the package yet. Will do so tonight.


----------



## Abaidor

Well I think I can join too as I just received my first package from watercool.de

1) MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel with 2X Grills (took both designs so I can change whenever I get bored)
2) Heatkiller Tube 200 Reservoir + Multiport and RGB LED + several mounting accessories

If I knew that the VRM cooler works with the Asus Rampage VI Extreme I would have added one to the basket. I pretty much prefer this solution + a CPU block (probably heatkiller too) vs a monoblock option for better compatibility with delided CPUs (IHS height differences).

No images as I have not even got to the office to open the package yet. Will do so tonight.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

.


JLMS2010 said:


> I'll join.


Welcome aboard, have fun building!



iamjanco said:


> Edited: @*Watercool-Jakob* : sent you a pm.


All good 



Abaidor said:


> Well I think I can join too as I just received my first package from watercool.de
> 
> 1) MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel with 2X Grills (took both designs so I can change whenever I get bored)
> 2) Heatkiller Tube 200 Reservoir + Multiport and RGB LED + several mounting accessories
> 
> If I knew that the VRM cooler works with the Asus Rampage VI Extreme I would have added one to the basket. I pretty much prefer this solution + a CPU block (probably heatkiller too) vs a monoblock option for better compatibility with delided CPUs (IHS height differences).
> 
> No images as I have not even got to the office to open the package yet. Will do so tonight.


Mh, sounds like you're gonna have a beastly setup! Good choice, man! 
Sorry that I didn't tell you earlier about the R6 Extreme. I was waiting for the confirmation from that customer...


Speaking of which: we are having the same exact problem with our Asus X399 Zenith vrm blocks: we expect them to be fully compatible with the ASUS ROG Strix X399-E Gaming and ASUS Prime X399-A, we are 95% sure - but we don't know EXACTLY. So, if any of you would happen to have one of these boards and wanted to order these blocks, please let me know! If you test them and report back to me with pictures, I'll throw in a 10% discount code. Plus, we'll take them back if they are incompatible, of course!


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> All good


Thanks, Jakob! I noticed the order status is "Abgeholt" (picked up). Should I be expecting a FedEx tracking number?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

iamjanco said:


> Thanks, Jakob! I noticed the order status is "Abgeholt" (picked up). Should I be expecting a FedEx tracking number?


The status "closed" means that your order has been transferred from the shop system to the shipping system and can no longer be changed by the customer. You will receive an automated email with tracking info from FedEx the day your order shipped (will be monday in this case).



As for the radiator topic: I really enjoyed all the engaged discussion going on here in the thread. We received 340 votes, which is a very good response number in my opinion. And from these 340 votes, a VERY clear and distinct result can be seen:










So. While we appreciate that there are differing opinions by other brand's audiences, the VAST majority of people interested in our products have one and the same focus: silence. We are very grateful for this unambiguous feedback and will, obviously, keep this in mind during the next design steps. Thanks for participating, everybody!

What is your take on these numbers? Did you expect SUCH a drastic and distinct result?


----------



## muzammil84

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The status "closed" means that your order has been transferred from the shop system to the shipping system and can no longer be changed by the customer. You will receive an automated email with tracking info from FedEx the day your order shipped (will be monday in this case).
> 
> 
> 
> As for the radiator topic: I really enjoyed all the engaged discussion going on here in the thread. We received 340 votes, which is a very good response number in my opinion. And from these 340 votes, a VERY clear and distinct result can be seen:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. While we appreciate that there are differing opinions by other brand's audiences, the VAST majority of people interested in our products have one and the same focus: silence. We are very grateful for this unambiguous feedback and will, obviously, keep this in mind during the next design steps. Thanks for participating, everybody!
> 
> What is your take on these numbers? Did you expect SUCH a drastic and distinct result?


I wonder when I will receive ANY reply from you or any other Watercool employee regarding my order paid a week ago and when you stop ignoring my complaints?? You guys don't seem to care much about customer over there, do you?


----------



## ruffhi

Do you have the numbers split by location? You mentioned a few times the Europe v USA view.

And NO - I was not surprised at all.


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The status "closed" means that your order has been transferred from the shop system to the shipping system and can no longer be changed by the customer. You will receive an automated email with tracking info from FedEx the day your order shipped (will be monday in this case).


Ausgezeichnet, danke!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

muzammil84 said:


> I wonder when I will receive ANY reply from you or any other Watercool employee regarding my order paid a week ago and when you stop ignoring my complaints?? You guys don't seem to care much about customer over there, do you?


Well, you received answers from me almost daily through the last week, including reactions to last-second changes. My last answer was this morning, to which you replied in the afternoon. I DO care about our customers - ALL of them. So I allow myself to work through the 30-50 mails and forum posts per day by "first in/first out", serving ALL customers equally. 
I DO take your complaints very seriously, which is why I take EXTRA time for your case to make sure I have the correct and best answer for you. Your last message to me is four hours old, split into two emails and one forum PN which all contradict each other. So please allow me to work through all cases, and then try to sort out your rather complicated case. 



ruffhi said:


> Do you have the numbers split by location? You mentioned a few times the Europe v USA view.
> 
> And NO - I was not surprised at all.


Nope, that Poll system was very basic. I liked it for this, so the users didn't have to register any account or something, and it was unilateral reach- and linkable, so I could get the opinions of people from different forums, chats, facebook, twitter, reddit, and so on all in one place. The downside is that the data is pretty unprocessed. It worked perfectly fine for this purpose, but for more complex matters, I'll most likely try to use something else.
As for my prejudices against the american watercooling community: it's great to see that I was wrong! I love that I did this poll  WATERCOOL was very focused on the german market for more than a decade and broadening our knowledge about our customers definitely helps in bringing you better products


----------



## muzammil84

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, you received answers from me almost daily through the last week, including reactions to last-second changes. My last answer was this morning, to which you replied in the afternoon. I DO care about our customers - ALL of them. So I allow myself to work through the 30-50 mails and forum posts per day by "first in/first out", serving ALL customers equally.
> I DO take your complaints very seriously, which is why I take EXTRA time for your case to make sure I have the correct and best answer for you. Your last message to me is four hours old, split into two emails and one forum PN which all contradict each other. So please allow me to work through all cases, and then try to sort out your rather complicated case.


Well then, I am looking forward to any kind of movement and development in my rather complicated case. Like I said, I can't wait another week for cooling bits so please either refund or send it via special delivery.


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> As for the radiator topic: I really enjoyed all the engaged discussion going on here in the thread. We received 340 votes, which is a very good response number in my opinion. And from these 340 votes, a VERY clear and distinct result can be seen:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. While we appreciate that there are differing opinions by other brand's audiences, the VAST majority of people interested in our products have one and the same focus: silence. We are very grateful for this unambiguous feedback and will, obviously, keep this in mind during the next design steps. Thanks for participating, everybody!
> 
> What is your take on these numbers? Did you expect SUCH a drastic and distinct result?


My take? eLoops might work great 

...as well as some of Corsair's newer fans (e.g., the LL series) for those who prefer disco lighting.


----------



## ruffhi

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nope, that Poll system was very basic.


Fair enough - thx for the reply.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> As for my prejudices against the american watercooling community: it's great to see that I was wrong! I love that I did this poll  WATERCOOL was very focused on the german market for more than a decade and broadening our knowledge about our customers definitely helps in bringing you better products


_friendly pointer in-coming_ ... careful with your word selection here. While google defines (Def #1) 'prejudices' as 'preconceived opinion that is not based on reason or actual experience' (which is exactly how you stated your earlier ideas re fan speed), the word has come to carry a degree of 'harm' associated with it and negative connotations.


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> So. While we appreciate that there are differing opinions by other brand's audiences, the VAST majority of people interested in our products have one and the same focus: silence. We are very grateful for this unambiguous feedback and will, obviously, keep this in mind during the next design steps. Thanks for participating, everybody!
> 
> What is your take on these numbers? Did you expect SUCH a drastic and distinct result?


Your poll results are not surprising. That's pretty much what I would have expected. I voted "up to 800 RPMs".

I placed an order from the Watercool Store this week! I'll be revealing my new goodies on my build log once I receive the order :thumb:


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> Your poll results are not surprising. That's pretty much what I would have expected. I voted "up to 800 RPMs".
> 
> I placed an order from the Watercool Store this week! I'll be revealing my new goodies on my build log once I receive the order :thumb:


Looking forward to the unboxing


----------



## chibi

800 rpm is my limit for rad fans as well. Good to know the Watercool community prioritizes quality _and_ silence. Rock on team!


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool-Jakob said:


> As for the radiator topic: I really enjoyed all the engaged discussion going on here in the thread. We received 340 votes, which is a very good response number in my opinion. And from these 340 votes, a VERY clear and distinct result can be seen:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So. While we appreciate that there are differing opinions by other brand's audiences, the VAST majority of people interested in our products have one and the same focus: silence. We are very grateful for this unambiguous feedback and will, obviously, keep this in mind during the next design steps. Thanks for participating, everybody!
> 
> What is your take on these numbers? Did you expect SUCH a drastic and distinct result?


Did the results surprise me? Not at all.
Did the results disappoint me? Definitely.

I'm part of a tiny niche (prefer high performance over low noise) within a small niche (liquid cooling), so I expect to have few choices. Would have been nice to add another option, but it looks like that won't be happening here.

Oh well. I'll still give your rads consideration for future builds assuming relative performance doesn't drop too much at higher fan speeds. And if you need testers to gauge that high-fan-speed performance, I'll be the first to volunteer.


----------



## Revan654

chibi said:


> 800 rpm is my limit for rad fans as well. Good to know the Watercool community prioritizes quality _and_ silence. Rock on team!


Some fans are still very quiet at 1200 to 1400 RPM's if properly configure in PWM. I have mine sitting around 800 to 900 rpm's.

---------

In other news WaterCool has shipped out my order last night, Should be here on Wednesday.


----------



## JLMS2010

Anybody have this happen? Just finished the build. Finished leak test. I was working and heard a loud pop. Looked around and didn’t see anything. About an hour later my res was low...then found this....


----------



## Aenra

MNMadman said:


> Did the results surprise me? Not at all. Did the results disappoint me? Definitely


My feelings exactly 
The same 'crowd' that "needs" 467352 radiators per single rig (and since they have them, well why not? Let's keep the fans at sub-800 RPM right?), the same 'crowd' that uses double or triple D5s for looks, because again, why not? Money to waste. The same 'crowd' that does a number of other things, slowly but steadily shifting an entire market towards redefining the circle, rather than advancing what can be done with it. 

But such is the way of things in most aspects of life, lol



JLMS2010 said:


> I was working and heard a loud pop. Looked around and didn’t see anything. About an hour later my res was low...then found this.


Ouch.. 
Since your post will get a lot of people worried, mind sharing the details? Ambient temps if you have them, component temps, coolant used, what were you doing when you heard the pop sound, rads used, etc? Would help.
* Edit: Looking at it again, i see the crack's close to where the stands mount.. could it be that you'd overdone it when screwing them in? Mind you, not insinuating or anything here, just an honest question.

And i'm sorry this happened to you. I'd be livid myself, am really careful about my stuff. Hope Jacob sorts you out man.


----------



## Madmaxneo

JLMS2010 said:


> Anybody have this happen? Just finished the build. Finished leak test. I was working and heard a loud pop. Looked around and didn’t see anything. About an hour later my res was low...then found this....


Wow. I've personally have never had this happen but there's a chance it may be a product of not leaving any expansion room for your fill.


----------



## JLMS2010

Sure. It's an X299 ASRock OC Formula with 7820x, 1 EVGA 1080 Ti and a M.2 drive. As far as watercooling goes, it's all heatkiller. Heatkiller IV Pro HWLuxx CPU block, 1080 Ti GPU block and this Res/D5 combo. I have a 280mm HWlabs radiator up front. 

That's true about not leaving enough room for expansion, but I did leave ample room for expansion. I don't think I over tightened the bolts. They only go so far and when they start to get tight I stop. lol POM can be stripped easily. I found out the hard way years and years ago with EK stuff. This was my first time using Heatkiller as I usually use EK stuff. I just got tired of them and I must say Watercool products are much better engineered even with what has happened. I'm sure Jakob will take care of me. I know they sell the spare tubes for 13.95 euro. Problem is it is 29.95 euro for shipping!

It seems like Performance PCs and Modmymods have a few of their products, but a lot of stuff is out of stock and no ETA. That's the only thing that I don't care for much is how hard it is to get some of this stuff.


----------



## Aenra

Madmaxneo said:


> there's a chance it may be a product of not leaving any expansion room for your fill


Had no knowledge of this.. my understanding was fill fill fill, bleed, let run some more, fill again until as near the top as is safe :S
(i keep reservoir horizontal too, which kind of exacerbates this as i fear the pump's potentially sucking air in).

Thank you very much for mentioning this. Assuming you've got the patience, mind stating what 'ample room' signifies? Like, say, 75% filled? 80%? Less perhaps? Give or take obviously, just trying to get an idea here.


----------



## Eatdamuffin

Can the D5 pump top be mounted on a 120mm fan?


----------



## JLMS2010

Aenra said:


> Had no knowledge of this.. my understanding was fill fill fill, bleed, let run some more, fill again until as near the top as is safe :S
> (i keep reservoir horizontal too, which kind of exacerbates this as i fear the pump's potentially sucking air in).
> 
> Thank you very much for mentioning this. Assuming you've got the patience, mind stating what 'ample room' signifies? Like, say, 75% filled? 80%? Less perhaps? Give or take obviously, just trying to get an idea here.




Yeah sure. I’d say it was around 80% full.


----------



## MNMadman

I haven't ever had a problem with filling my reservoirs to the brim (99% or so). But then again, I fill them while the system is running so the coolant is nice and warm and already expanded.


----------



## iamjanco

Strange that *the borosilicate glass cracked*, but even it isn't impervious to bullets. Pyrex has been known to do that of late as well (today's flavor is not your grandma's Pyrex). 

I'd suspect one of the following:



damage during shipment that wasn't noticed, and/or;
overtightening something and/or poor fitment during installation, and/or;
extreme pressure buildup due to overfilling, thermals, or a combination thereof, and/or;
perhaps supplied with some unnoticeable imperfection to Watercool by their source (perhaps Jakob will chime in here) @Watercool-Jakob.

It might not be a bad idea to add something like the relief valve (*membrane valve*) Aquacomputer uses in their pressure-sensing res combos (though I'm not sure it's meant to be used with horizontally mounted reservoirs). It's also my understanding that thermally induced pressure changes in a loop are negligible under normal circumstances, but we do have a number of experts on the forum that might be willing to share their thoughts on that... @geggeg @fast_fate @stren

Though I'm not sure how much *using air to test* such components prior to installation in a loop is worth, it might not be a bad idea to do that as well. 

Also see: *OCN Community Water Cooling Test Thread*.


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> It might not be a bad idea to add something like the relief valve (*membrane valve*) Aquacomputer uses in their pressure-sensing res combos (though I'm not sure it's meant to be used with horizontally mounted reservoirs)


Unfortunately, res needs to be vertical or water would leak through and outside, there's absolutely nothing to stop it if you replace a fill port with the membrane; i PMed Shoggy and asked him a while ago 
(to my understanding this couldn't work otherwise, as sealing it would also entail sealing the air in)

And thanks to you all for the feedback, you got any more tips regarding this, by all means share, lol


----------



## Madmaxneo

JLMS2010 said:


> Sure. It's an X299 ASRock OC Formula with 7820x, 1 EVGA 1080 Ti and a M.2 drive. As far as watercooling goes, it's all heatkiller. Heatkiller IV Pro HWLuxx CPU block, 1080 Ti GPU block and this Res/D5 combo. I have a 280mm HWlabs radiator up front.
> 
> That's true about not leaving enough room for expansion, but I did leave ample room for expansion. I don't think I over tightened the bolts. They only go so far and when they start to get tight I stop. lol POM can be stripped easily. I found out the hard way years and years ago with EK stuff. This was my first time using Heatkiller as I usually use EK stuff. I just got tired of them and I must say Watercool products are much better engineered even with what has happened. I'm sure Jakob will take care of me. I know they sell the spare tubes for 13.95 euro. Problem is it is 29.95 euro for shipping!
> 
> It seems like Performance PCs and Modmymods have a few of their products, but a lot of stuff is out of stock and no ETA. That's the only thing that I don't care for much is how hard it is to get some of this stuff.


It would have taken being overfull and a lot of pressure to have caused it to crack like that. I'm not familiar with that res and assume it is made of acrylic, which is not very flexible and can be easy to break. There is a chance that there was an unseen fracture under one of the seals that happened during the manufacturing process. 
It just really sucks to have that happen in a build. I assume that the fluid didn't get on any other vital areas since you didn't mention it. I hope this gets taken care of for you.


Aenra said:


> Had no knowledge of this.. my understanding was fill fill fill, bleed, let run some more, fill again until as near the top as is safe :S
> (i keep reservoir horizontal too, which kind of exacerbates this as i fear the pump's potentially sucking air in).
> 
> Thank you very much for mentioning this. Assuming you've got the patience, mind stating what 'ample room' signifies? Like, say, 75% filled? 80%? Less perhaps? Give or take obviously, just trying to get an idea here.



More like about 99.9% filled as you don't really need that much room for expansion. I've heard of others over filling their loops to the point that once the water heats up and things begin to expand that it causes leaks. I personally have not had that problem yet.


----------



## iamjanco

Madmaxneo said:


> It would have taken being overfull and a lot of pressure to have caused it to crack like that. I'm not familiar with that res and assume it is made of acrylic, which is not very flexible and can be easy to break. There is a chance that there was an unseen fracture under one of the seals that happened during the manufacturing process.


If you're referring to the Heatkiller res, the tube is made of borosilicate glass.


----------



## Aenra

Madmaxneo said:


> More like about 99.9% filled as you don't really need that much room for expansion. I've heard of others over filling their loops to the point that once the water heats up and things begin to expand that it causes leaks. I personally have not had that problem yet.


Yeah, fair enough. And my thanks for replying


----------



## Madmaxneo

iamjanco said:


> If you're referring to the Heatkiller res, the tube is made of borosilicate glass.


Interesting to know. I wonder if enough heat in a single spot could have caused that to crack...


----------



## SoMBrA

Old problems with reservoir (ek cracks!) got me into looking for alternatives and the heatkiller GPU blocks draw my attention that's how I found the tube reservoir and the tr4 block.
Have those but I'm on a long trip and couldn't check them out until I'm back.
Have my build on hold for 2 more weeks! 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## fx3861

Madmaxneo said:


> Interesting to know. I wonder if enough heat in a single spot could have caused that to crack...


To my knowledge, as i'm using the reservoir also, the glass tube is very thick, and as all knows, glass able to withstand heat at very high temp. Most likely there's a miniature crack or a deep chip during installation that goes unnoticed . Its very hard to noticed it if its all assembled.


----------



## JLMS2010

MNMadman said:


> I haven't ever had a problem with filling my reservoirs to the brim (99% or so). But then again, I fill them while the system is running so the coolant is nice and warm and already expanded.


I fill mine while the system is running as well. After the leak test is complete I run the whole system for a while with the top port open. Then I fill it to the desired level let it run some more before putting the plug in. 
I’ve never had a problem with too much pressure, expansion, etc before either. I’ve built plenty of these in the past.


----------



## JLMS2010

fx3861 said:


> To my knowledge, as i'm using the reservoir also, the glass tube is very thick, and as all knows, glass able to withstand heat at very high temp. Most likely there's a miniature crack or a deep chip during installation that goes unnoticed . Its very hard to noticed it if its all assembled.


Yes, it is very thick which is suprising it cracked unless there was a defect in the glass somewhere. Nothing else was in the case when I installed it to the rad. I distinctly remember being very careful while mounting it, nothing hit it. I’m positive.


----------



## fx3861

JLMS2010 said:


> Yes, it is very thick which is suprising it cracked unless there was a defect in the glass somewhere. Nothing else was in the case when I installed it to the rad. I distinctly remember being very careful while mounting it, nothing hit it. I’m positive.


Guess it might been a defect somewhere. Knowing watercool, all the package, i receive from them is very very well protected. Work in the airport line, so i know how the baggage handlers 'handle' small stuffs around. Try contacting Watercool-Jakob, maybe he's able to get you a replacement.


----------



## JLMS2010

fx3861 said:


> Guess it might been a defect somewhere. Knowing watercool, all the package, i receive from them is very very well protected. Work in the airport line, so i know how the baggage handlers 'handle' small stuffs around. Try contacting Watercool-Jakob, maybe he's able to get you a replacement.


Yeah, I emailed him. I probably won’t hear back until Monday since it is the weekend.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

JLMS2010 said:


> Anybody have this happen? Just finished the build. Finished leak test. I was working and heard a loud pop. Looked around and didn’t see anything. About an hour later my res was low...then found this....


Oh wow. I am very sorry for you, this must be a horrible experience! I'm just happy that no hardware were harmed by this failure!
Indeed, I was busy during the weekend, but we'll get to this problem with highest priority right now. I already sent you an email, aksing for more details of the scenario so we can identify the cause for the failure. It would be great if you could help us finding the reason for this, so we can make sure that it doesn't affect others, too. And of course, we will send you a replacement tube free of charge today!



MNMadman said:


> Did the results surprise me? Not at all.
> Did the results disappoint me? Definitely.
> 
> I'm part of a tiny niche (prefer high performance over low noise) within a small niche (liquid cooling), so I expect to have few choices. Would have been nice to add another option, but it looks like that won't be happening here.





Aenra said:


> My feelings exactly
> The same 'crowd' that "needs" 467352 radiators per single rig (and since they have them, well why not? Let's keep the fans at sub-800 RPM right?), the same 'crowd' that uses double or triple D5s for looks, because again, why not? Money to waste. The same 'crowd' that does a number of other things, slowly but steadily shifting an entire market towards redefining the circle, rather than advancing what can be done with it.


Already expected this reaction from the both of you, given your previous answers 
In our opinion, we already have the perfect product for people seeking maximum performance: 









The MO-RA3! Equip one of these beasts with up to 18 140mm fans, and you will have more cooling power than ANY high-rpm fans setup with internal radiators will EVER offer. If your goal for a watercooling loop is best possible temps, then there's no way around this radiator!




Eatdamuffin said:


> Can the D5 pump top be mounted on a 120mm fan?


No, you'd need an adapter plate.


----------



## JLMS2010

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh wow. I am very sorry for you, this must be a horrible experience! I'm just happy that no hardware were harmed by this failure!
> Indeed, I was busy during the weekend, but we'll get to this problem with highest priority right now. I already sent you an email, aksing for more details of the scenario so we can identify the cause for the failure. It would be great if you could help us finding the reason for this, so we can make sure that it doesn't affect others, too. And of course, we will send you a replacement tube free of charge today!


Thank you Jakob. I knew you guys would take care of this given the past communication and excellent customer service you guys have shown thus far. I responded to your email with answers to all of your questions. I hope that information was useful and if you have more questions, please feel free to ask. I'd like to know what you all think the problem was, even if it was my fault somehow. Haha


----------



## snef

don't think its heat, high pressure or expansion

for heat and high pressure, the thickness of the glass is around 5mm its very very thick , it can take a very high heat, IMO the system will shutdown before the temp limit of the tube
pressure... I really think hardline tubing will pop out of fitting before breaking this tube, I'm sure I can stand on it and I'm not small guy  

as for expansion, everyone with this res saw the 2 o-ring on top and bottom, they are way bigger than it need to accommodate this expansion


----------



## JLMS2010

snef said:


> don't think its heat, high pressure or expansion
> 
> for heat and high pressure, the thickness of the glass is around 5mm its very very thick , it can take a very high heat, IMO the system will shutdown before the temp limit of the tube
> pressure... I really think hardline tubing will pop out of fitting before breaking this tube, I'm sure I can stand on it and I'm not small guy
> 
> as for expansion, everyone with this res saw the 2 o-ring on top and bottom, they are way bigger than it need to accommodate this expansion


Thanks Snef. Yes, those O-rings on the top and the bottom are HUGE. 

I also mentioned to Jakob that when I took the top off to install the mounting bracket that inner portion of the tube is a VERY snug fit on the top. I'm assuming this is normal, but you do have to line it up and push it straight down with a fair amount of pressure, then it seats perfectly.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

snef said:


> don't think its heat, high pressure or expansion
> 
> for heat and high pressure, the thickness of the glass is around 5mm its very very thick , it can take a very high heat, IMO the system will shutdown before the temp limit of the tube
> pressure... I really think hardline tubing will pop out of fitting before breaking this tube, I'm sure I can stand on it and I'm not small guy
> 
> as for expansion, everyone with this res saw the 2 o-ring on top and bottom, they are way bigger than it need to accommodate this expansion


We definitely rule heat, fluid pressure or fluid expansion out. Borosilicate glass is VERY robust, just as Snef said. You'd need such high pressure that many other components in the loop would have failed way earlier: the seals in the blocks, the connection between fittings and tubes, even the acrylic window in the GPU blocks would crack way earlier then the borosilicate glass. Same is true for fluid expansion and heat: the borosilicate glass is the most robust part (next to the full metal parts) in the loop. 




JLMS2010 said:


> Thanks Snef. Yes, those O-rings on the top and the bottom are HUGE.
> 
> I also mentioned to Jakob that when I took the top off to install the mounting bracket that inner portion of the tube is a VERY snug fit on the top. I'm assuming this is normal, but you do have to line it up and push it straight down with a fair amount of pressure, then it seats perfectly.


We do think that this is the reason for the damage. The glass tube is supposed to slide into the groove in the top with ease. It is actually even supposed to have ~1mm wiggle room on the inner and the outer diameter. It seems as if you had a piece of glass tube on the maximum of its tolerances that unfortunately got paired with a top on the minimum of its tolerances. We'll also send you a replacement top, just to be sure that everything is fine now.


----------



## Abaidor

Jakob,

We spoke on the mail earlier, could you please post an image of the passive heatsink supplied with the Rampage VI Extreme VRM block? :Snorkle:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Abaidor said:


> Jakob,
> 
> We spoke on the mail earlier, could you please post an image of the passive heatsink supplied with the Rampage VI Extreme VRM block? :Snorkle:


Yup. It's one of these little fellas. These Heatsinks were initially designed to cool the RAM chips on graphics cards in combination with our HEATKILLER Core series of GPU only water blocks. We compared the data sheets, and they are in the same range. Those heatsinks have proven to be well functioning for years now, so we bundled them with the new VRM heatsink.


----------



## JLMS2010

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We definitely rule heat, fluid pressure or fluid expansion out. Borosilicate glass is VERY robust, just as Snef said. You'd need such high pressure that many other components in the loop would have failed way earlier: the seals in the blocks, the connection between fittings and tubes, even the acrylic window in the GPU blocks would crack way earlier then the borosilicate glass. Same is true for fluid expansion and heat: the borosilicate glass is the most robust part (next to the full metal parts) in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> We do think that this is the reason for the damage. The glass tube is supposed to slide into the groove in the top with ease. It is actually even supposed to have ~1mm wiggle room on the inner and the outer diameter. It seems as if you had a piece of glass tube on the maximum of its tolerances that unfortunately got paired with a top on the minimum of its tolerances. We'll also send you a replacement top, just to be sure that everything is fine now.


Thank you Jakob. I knew you guys would take care of this quickly. If there is supposed to be wiggly room then, I agree that was probably the cause because there wasn't any. Oddly enough, there was wiggly room at the bottom, but not at the top. I just checked fitment of the "bottom" of the tube with the top multiport. Basically reversing it since the "bottom" is still intact, unbroken. If that makes sense. It slides on the top with a little bit of wiggle room, just like the bottom. Meaning the ID of the top of the tube must have been a little smaller than the bottom. It is definitely a much different fit than the "top". I hope I explained that correctly and is helpful.


----------



## Zero4549

Missed the posts about radiators earlier due to the horrible vbulletin transition, and I've gotta say, I'm very disappointed.

You already have the best rads on the market for potato fans. Making a new line of radiators to address the same tiny market you've already dominated makes very little sense from a business perspective, especially when all (English) reviewers give you poor marks for failing to operate outside of that very small niche.

From a personal perspective, as much as I would love to use your beautiful and well-made rads, I simply cannot. 

Your rads are very expensive compared to the competition. This is justifiable given their higher quality and aesthetics, but only with those with money to burn on luxury showcase systems, or for those who are liquid cooling "just because" and not for any functional advantages.

In order to adequately cool a system where liquid makes any sense to begin with (power hungry gaming/workstation systems that can double as home heaters), using your rads, one would need to spend just as much on the loop as on the electronics. (Low cooling capacity per rad means I need more rads, this more fans, and more pumps, and a bigger case, and let's not forget the rads are already the priciest in the market and that low speed optimized fans are often the most expensive as well).

Taking money out of the equation, building a system with your rads would also require more space than I can reasonably allot to a computer. I a suppose with money as no object, my solution is simply to buy a larger house, but now things are becoming absurd.

The real kicker is that, at least where I live (which isn't some noisy dump, I'm on the quieter side of a luxury apartment building in an upper-middle-class neighborhood), anything below 1100-1400rpm is actually below the ambient noise floor in the middle of the night. Up to 1800rpm is still effectively silent during any practical usage hours and with noses created by using the system (input devices, music or game noises, etc). Furthermore, it could easily be argued that one should optimize their rads for "quiet" rather than "silent", as a "quiet" loop can always be made "silent" by turning the fans down a notch but still has the capacity to cool well when under extreme load. Inversely, a loop that caps out at "silent" can only be adjusted to "more silent", which is kind of a useless proposition.

I understand that visitors of your website (mainly wealthy German silent showcase computer enthusiasts) prefer extreme low-speed optimization, but frankly, that is at the expense of your global market, and all for little gain as your current lineup already addresses the extreme silent market.

I would highly advise against making such a redundant product for an already small market, and instead focus on greater fan speed and thus greater coming capacity to volume/price ratio for your next product.

_Edited for phone auto-incorrect, and additional info_


----------



## Aenra

Jacob i'm aware of the MORAs, but i have my limits. Has to fit inside the chassis you see, for terms 100% practical. Space, dust, maintenance, freedom of (my) movement, portability.
Basically @Zero4549 summed it up perfectly above me.. to the surprise of no one, yeah, lol

Unrelated to rads, i had a question though i admit it's a delicate one:
Have seen similar issues with Aqua Computer's bor/te glass reservoirs from time to time. I'd assume the issue stems from the glass manufacturer's side, ie that they cannot guarantee the exact needed dimensions/diameter? Because if so, one'd expect a Q/A process accommodating for such a fact, no?

And as always, thank you for replying


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yup. It's one of these little fellas. These Heatsinks were initially designed to cool the RAM chips on graphics cards in combination with our HEATKILLER Core series of GPU only water blocks. We compared the data sheets, and they are in the same range. Those heatsinks have proven to be well functioning for years now, so we bundled them with the new VRM heatsink.


So do think this small heatsink adequate? I mean NICs using the same Aquantia chip come with large heatsinks, the EK monoblock also has a large passive heatsink as well as the motherboard stock cooling with the heatpipe. 

I am not worried about frying this cheap (it won't) but I am worried about throttling (it does). 

Please bear in mind that although you might find NICs with this chip without any heatsink they are meant to be installed on machines with some airflow. The Rampage VI Extreme has the chip underneath the shroud so there is no direct airflow. 

The chip consumes 6W so at continues operation (big file transfers to NAS) it will need some cooling. 


If you can make a larger heatsink that somehow pulls the heat out of the shroud I would buy it. Just something between the stock solution and EKs heatsink that comes with their monoblock.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zero4549 said:


> Missed the posts about radiators earlier due to the horrible vbulletin transition, and I've gotta say, I'm very disappointed.
> 
> You already have the best rads on the market for potato fans. Making a new line of radiators to address the same tiny market you've already dominated makes very little sense from a business perspective, especially when all (English) reviewers give you poor marks for failing to operate outside of that very small niche.


It seems as if the market of silence enthusiasts isn't "tiny" - on the contrary, 89% of votes wanted to stay below 1200rpm. In fact, the "very small niche" in this poll are the 4% interested in higher than 1800 fans. So, I fully understand that this does not reflect your personal standpoint. But it seems to me that the VAST majority of people interested in our products disagree with your personal standpoint fundamentally.



> In order to adequately cool a system where liquid makes any sense to begin with (power hungry gaming/workstation systems that can double as home heaters), using your rads, one would need to spend just as much on the loop as on the electronics.


As I already said, I don't see any benefit in using internal rads for such a system. We DO already offer the perfect product to cool such systems: The MO-RA.



> I understand that visitors of your website (mainly wealthy German silent showcase computer enthusiasts) prefer extreme low-speed optimization, but frankly, that is at the expense of your global market, and all for little gain as your current lineup already addresses the extreme silent market.


That poll wasn't even posted to our own website (btw, shame on me, of course I should have done that...). It was advertised through our (english speaking) twitter and facebook accounts (and shared into ~15 international facebook groups), the international /r/watercooling subreddit, in this and two other english speaking forums, and one german speaking forum. From the 54 comments that were posted under the poll, only 4 were in german, the rest in english. As I said multiple times, I myself was very surprised with the result, but it seems to indicate that our global market IS the extreme silent market. People following us on facebook, twitter or forums seem to prefer silence over raw performance by a landslide big margin.
Now, I am fully aware that this does not reflect the whole spectrum of the global watercooling community. And I agree with you that most likely, the preferences would shift to a higher spinning rpm number when (for example) ThermalTake or EK would ask the same poll from their customers. And I agree with you that I most likely did not reach everyone interested in our products, though I did my best and tried. But with 340 votes, I think we reached a nice sample size that does not give us true scientific values - but a trustworthy tendency.




Aenra said:


> Have seen similar issues with Aqua Computer's bor/te glass reservoirs from time to time. I'd assume the issue stems from the glass manufacturer's side, ie that they cannot guarantee the exact needed dimensions/diameter? Because if so, one'd expect a Q/A process accommodating for such a fact, no?


Yup, it's definitely a problem with the tolerances of the glass. We're looking into it.



Abaidor said:


> So do think this small heatsink adequate? I mean NICs using the same Aquantia chip come with large heatsinks, the EK monoblock also has a large passive heatsink as well as the motherboard stock cooling with the heatpipe.
> [...]
> If you can make a larger heatsink that somehow pulls the heat out of the shroud I would buy it. Just something between the stock solution and EKs heatsink that comes with their monoblock.


According to the spec sheets of the chip manufacturer and our very good experience with the small heatsinks, we are absolutely sure that they will offer sufficient cooling. Bear in mind that the massive stock heatsink sitting over the Chip is connected to the VRMs. So under usual overclock scenarios, this heatsink will actually heat the chip up, since the VRMs deliver SO MUCH MORE heat than the tiny ~4-5W of the chip.


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> According to the spec sheets of the chip manufacturer and our very good experience with the small heatsinks, we are absolutely sure that they will offer sufficient cooling. Bear in mind that the massive stock heatsink sitting over the Chip is connected to the VRMs. So under usual overclock scenarios, this heatsink will actually heat the chip up, since the VRMs deliver SO MUCH MORE heat than the tiny ~4-5W of the chip.



Ok that's what I wanted to clear up (the spec sheets of the chip manufacturer) so I should not be worried. And you are right that the stock cooling is also connected to the VRM that would certainly transfer heat there - I missed this point. Yet, I was mostly concerned due to the large heatsink EK bundles with their monoblock but I guess they might went that rout for mounting reasons rather than heat dissipation reasons.

Finally, if the chip was not hidden underneath Asus Shield I would not even care but it is so the lack of airflow there got me worried. Anyway should I go this route I will pop a temp sensor there (if there is not one already) and monitor it just for the sake of it. If any thermal throttling arise I can always custom cut a heatsink myself at the end of the day but I doubt it will be needed.


----------



## JLMS2010

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It seems as if the market of silence enthusiasts isn't "tiny" - on the contrary, 89% of votes wanted to stay below 1200rpm. In fact, the "very small niche" in this poll are the 4% interested in higher than 1800 fans. So, I fully understand that this does not reflect your personal standpoint. But it seems to me that the VAST majority of people interested in our products disagree with your personal standpoint fundamentally.


I certainly don't want 1800 rpm fans in my build! People that I talk to always want low rpm fans. I've always used the HW Labs Nemesis GTS radiators with ~1000rpm fans (fan controller for 1200rpm fans). Never had any issues with performance or noise. I haven't tired Watercool's radiators yet...


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yup, it's definitely a problem with the tolerances of the glass. We're looking into it.


Thanks, Jakob. I imagine buyers like me should be able to determine whether or not the tubes they receive are affected, given *what you stated earlier on*. That said, if you stock them preassembled, have you noted instances of the same issue when swapping in the multiport top part of the res? Or do you assemble the res as orders come in?



Watercool-Jakob said:


> According to the spec sheets of the chip manufacturer and our very good experience with the small heatsinks, we are absolutely sure that they will offer sufficient cooling. Bear in mind that the massive stock heatsink sitting over the Chip is connected to the VRMs. So under usual overclock scenarios, this heatsink will actually heat the chip up, since the VRMs deliver SO MUCH MORE heat than the tiny ~4-5W of the chip.


I imagine the heat pipe exists more for the benefit of VRM temps than those of the Aquantia chip. I've actually wondered about that from the time Asus made the change to the heatsink.


----------



## fx3861

Just wondering, if anyone tried the 'goffy' method for the pro version of cpu block on Asus Maximus IX Formula? Need to know if it will bring better performance than the 'normal' method


----------



## Abaidor

iamjanco said:


> Thanks, Jakob. I imagine buyers like me should be able to determine whether or not the tubes they receive are affected, given *what you stated earlier on*. That said, if you stock them preassembled, have you noted instances of the same issue when swapping in the multiport top part of the res? Or do you assemble the res as orders come in?
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine the heat pipe exists more for the benefit of VRM temps than those of the Aquantia chip. I've actually wondered about that from the time Asus made the change to the heatsink.


Well based on an Asus rep comments they did manage to throttle the chip in the lab but I don't know under what conditions so it's not much of a help. 

The NICs from Gigabyte, Asus & ROG based on this chip all come with big heatsinks. However, it could be pure marketing at work with these since the chip does not need that much cooling. It does need some cooling though under heavy use. Again, the only thing causing concerns here is the fact that it is located under the shield so no airflow or just a tiny amount. 

When I will be ready with a 10G connection I will test and see but at the end of the day there is no risk of damage - just throttling.


----------



## Aenra

If for whatever reason you think that sink won't suffice, you can always buy your own from someone like Enzotech; they're just a few bucks each, 100% copper, can come in taller/beefier models than the one linked here and have done the trick for me every time. 

If you have the patience, you can find even bigger/taller ones from some local store, only of course they won't come anodized. It's the RGB pwnage generation, so i guess one needs to point that out in advance, save anyone the time. 
(not that i have an issue with that of course, i mean looks should come first and function last; it's all about the science end of the day)


----------



## Abaidor

Aenra said:


> If for whatever reason you think that sink won't suffice, you can always buy your own from someone like Enzotech; they're just a few bucks each, 100% copper, can come in taller/beefier models than the one linked here and have done the trick for me every time.
> 
> If you have the patience, you can find even bigger/taller ones from some local store, only of course they won't come anodized. It's the RGB pwnage generation, so i guess one needs to point that out in advance, save anyone the time.
> (not that i have an issue with that of course, i mean looks should come first and function last; it's all about the science end of the day)


The heatsink is placed underneath the back I/O shield so looks is not important at all since it won't ever be seen. Yet, I have a bunch of Enzotech solid copper sinks from the days of cooling my Geforce 8800GTXs with standalone GPU blocks. Should it be necessary I would also come up with a way to channel some air in there too. 


BTW - anyone with Heatkiller Pro here and a HCC i9? I intend to use it on a 7940X and I am wondering how it will do.


----------



## Aenra

Abaidor said:


> I have a bunch of Enzotech solid copper sinks from the days of cooling my Geforce 8800GTXs


That's a considerable while; while the adhesive the Enzotechs ship with is a good quality 3M one, time is still time. I'd check for adhesiveness before putting it in and calling it a day. Something that light, you may or may not hear it popping off.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> If you have the patience, you can find even bigger/taller ones from some local store, only of course they won't come anodized.


Be aware that the space around that chip is very limited. There are a bunch of capacitors surrounding it, so bigger heatsinks could run into compatibility issues.


----------



## ProRules

Hey Jakob, are you guys going to release HK Radiators in the future?
With copper and some nice taste of HK logo on it


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Be aware that the space around that chip is very limited. There are a bunch of capacitors surrounding it, so bigger heatsinks could run into compatibility issues.


Yes I am aware of that - if you go bigger then a "creative - mounting" solution and cutting the heatsink like EK has done is needed. I am not worried though- I would use the one you supply and only if there was an issue would look into other options.


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Jakob In the past what has been usual/average lead time from the release date of a new Nvidia reference GPU and your GPU blocks being available to order?


----------



## Aenra

Bit of a general feedback here, was having a look at your GPU blocks (it's gonna be between you, Aqua and XSPC so far).

That lack of a backplate for Vega, maybe other models too? It can be a deterrent. Now obviously you guys have your reasons, am assuming low demand being key factor, but nonetheless.. 'complete' sets are a good thing to have.
I don't use or care for RGB lights, but i do strive for some degree of consistency, color-wise, don't want it to look like a circus in there. Meaning i need somehow 'match' my GPU, CPU, VRM monoblocks with one another. Lacking a back plate can be an issue with that.
Is it enough to stop me from purchasing the block itself? Not really, not per se. But if say 'x' other company offers similar quality _and_ a matching backplate? Then yes.

As wlays, just ideas i get, feel free to ignore them


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ProRules said:


> Hey Jakob, are you guys going to release HK Radiators in the future?
> With copper and some nice taste of HK logo on it


Yes, we will! We are currently in prototyping stage for a complete set of radiators for internal mounting: 120, 240, 360, 140, 280, 420, several thicknesses - it's all there! Plus a complete flux-free internal structure, this will be a nice package. Current ETA: May-June 2018



paskowitz said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* In the past what has been usual/average lead time from the release date of a new Nvidia reference GPU and your GPU blocks being available to order?


If it's a big release of a new generation, we usually launch our blocks 4 weeks after the card itself. Are you thinking about something specific? Did I miss an upcoming new Nvidia card :headscrat



Aenra said:


> Bit of a general feedback here, was having a look at your GPU blocks (it's gonna be between you, Aqua and XSPC so far).
> 
> That lack of a backplate for Vega, maybe other models too? It can be a deterrent. Now obviously you guys have your reasons, am assuming low demand being key factor, but nonetheless.. 'complete' sets are a good thing to have.
> I don't use or care for RGB lights, but i do strive for some degree of consistency, color-wise, don't want it to look like a circus in there. Meaning i need somehow 'match' my GPU, CPU, VRM monoblocks with one another. Lacking a back plate can be an issue with that.
> Is it enough to stop me from purchasing the block itself? Not really, not per se. But if say 'x' other company offers similar quality _and_ a matching backplate? Then yes.
> 
> As wlays, just ideas i get, feel free to ignore them


Thanks for the feedback. It's hard to make the right decisions... For our Nvidia Pascal cards, one of the most common complaints we got was "Why is your block not compatible with the stock backplate? I already paid for that backplate, why do I have to pay for your specialized backplate again?". So we tried to take this into consideration for RX Vega and designed the block so that it's compatible with the stock backplate, as this was explicitly demanded by many customers. 
Now, I'm getting complaints about the lack of Heatkiller backplate for Vega from some customers  So, for the next generation of blocks, I guess we'll try to get it compatible with the stock backplate AND offer our own version. Let's see what customers will not be happy with then


----------



## ProRules

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, we will! We are currently in prototyping stage for a complete set of radiators for internal mounting: 120, 240, 360, 140, 280, 420, several thicknesses - it's all there! Plus a complete flux-free internal structure, this will be a nice package. Current ETA: May-June 2018


Yesss!!
I am excited


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Let's see what customers will not be happy with then


haha, well.. you do have a point obviously ^^
But it's easy really, think colors. The specific Nvidia model you mentioned has a nicely, smoothely textured black backplate, so chances are yes, most folks are gonna be keeping it. A blue backplate on the other hand? With a metallic sheen? Or a yellow one such as in the frontier? Most folks are gonna be looking for a replacement.. just as you said yourself.
So look at stock backplate colors and then you guys visualize those with your monoblocks on the other side of the card. Do they match? If not, well you've got your answer


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, we will! We are currently in prototyping stage for a complete set of radiators for internal mounting: 120, 240, 360, 140, 280, 420, several thicknesses - it's all there! Plus a complete flux-free internal structure, this will be a nice package. Current ETA: May-June 2018
> 
> If it's a big release of a new generation, we usually launch our blocks 4 weeks after the card itself. Are you thinking about something specific? Did I miss an upcoming new Nvidia card :headscrat


Good news on the rads! That's a lot sooner than I expected.

I am certainly AMPED for whatever team green is cooking up.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Well now I'm glad I cheaped out on the rads for my build! ~£30 for two Magicool G2 Slim 360s isn't too much money gone and it'll let me get the Heatkiller IV CPU block too if I decide on it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Anyone up for a tiny spoiler?










Most likely they'll be available tomorrow in our shop


----------



## Revan654

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, we will! We are currently in prototyping stage for a complete set of radiators for internal mounting: 120, 240, 360, 140, 280, 420, several thicknesses - it's all there! Plus a complete flux-free internal structure, this will be a nice package. Current ETA: May-June 2018
> 
> ---
> 
> *Let's see what customers will not be happy with then*


no 560  , Atlease there a 420 option 

---

There be some I guarantee it. Like the old saying you give them gold and they will complain it's to heavy.

------

Got my order last night, It took awhile due to Fed-Ex wanted to travel through every country before it landed in the US. I do have to say the new RGB LED's are allot better sleeved then the old Solid color LED's. The old sleeving was nice but it was to large for two single wires, I think it was designed for sata(It keeping falling off the heatshrink).










This may be an odd question. I was wondering where you get the RGB connector/housing for the cable end? I'm trying to do a few more mods for my cables but I'm out of the RGB connectors. Since you use the same style of connector I was using maybe you know where to buy them from.


----------



## xarot

Hello,

A while ago I got my new Heatkiller IV copper CPU block to replace my EK Supremacy EVO on the Core i9-7980XE. The reason was, that the EK didn't make a good contact at all (on multiple CPUs on multiple HEDT generations). My 7980XE is delidded.

However, the contact with Heatkiller IV was very poor from the start. It only made a little contact from the center only and as the die of this 18-core CPU is huge, it resulted in very poor temps on some of the cores (6 I think). I did two mounts and tightened the screws by hand all the way down until I couldn't tighten anymore, but no change. I used the 2011 mounting screws etc. Then I took the mounting kit from the EK block (I really like it too) and only added the metal washers under the springs and tightened it all the way I could...temps dropped 13c on the hottest core! And then imagine 18 cores.

I don't know if it's even possible to bend the block by tightening but definitely it seems that the pressure got way better with the EK mounting stuff. Has this block been designed to smaller CPUs so it's bowing too much in the center? I hope that the block didn't bend so much it would cause I leak, I guess not because it looks VERY durable. Anyway whatever works, works right? I am still open to ideas on this.

Also, guess who had butterfingers when doing the first installation of the block and one of those metal washers disappeared somewhere between my GPUs and motherboard. Had to disassembly the whole box and turn it around multiple times...it finally dropped on the floor. Phew.


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Anyone up for a tiny spoiler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely they'll be available tomorrow in our shop


Those fitting look really nice! Any chance the shut-off valve has a metal handle on it?

The Bitspower ones have plastic handles and they always break.


----------



## SoMBrA

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Anyone up for a tiny spoiler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely they'll be available tomorrow in our shop


Wow very nice Jakob.
You mentioned earlier that this are barrow fittings right?
Did you guys order rotary fittings too? (need some adapters really. Male to male!) 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## M-oll

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the feedback. It's hard to make the right decisions... For our Nvidia Pascal cards, one of the most common complaints we got was "Why is your block not compatible with the stock backplate? I already paid for that backplate, why do I have to pay for your specialized backplate again?". So we tried to take this into consideration for RX Vega and designed the block so that it's compatible with the stock backplate, as this was explicitly demanded by many customers.
> Now, I'm getting complaints about the lack of Heatkiller backplate for Vega from some customers  So, for the next generation of blocks, I guess we'll try to get it compatible with the stock backplate AND offer our own version. Let's see what customers will not be happy with then


Be aware that when you finally get it compatible with the stock backplate and offer your own version someone will complain that you're now offering _to many choices_ when it comes to backplates! 

When we're on the subject of backplates: is it possible to order a custom backplate made out of copper instead of anodized aluminium from you? Since you have a design for the backplate made to match your waterblock and a means to manufacture it I don't have to my own RnD and then find a manufacturer etc.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Revan654 said:


> There be some I guarantee it. Like the old saying you give them gold and they will complain it's to heavy.


:cheers: to my daily struggle 


Revan654 said:


> This may be an odd question. I was wondering where you get the RGB connector/housing for the cable end? I'm trying to do a few more mods for my cables but I'm out of the RGB connectors. Since you use the same style of connector I was using maybe you know where to buy them from.


It took us more than 8 months to find these, so we don't want to share that information. We would, however, sell you some, if you're interested. Send me an email to [email protected] with the amount needed and shipping address and we'll make it happen 



xarot said:


> A while ago I got my new Heatkiller IV copper CPU block to replace my EK Supremacy EVO on the Core i9-7980XE. The reason was, that the EK didn't make a good contact at all (on multiple CPUs on multiple HEDT generations). My 7980XE is delidded.
> 
> However, the contact with Heatkiller IV was very poor from the start. It only made a little contact from the center only and as the die of this 18-core CPU is huge, it resulted in very poor temps on some of the cores (6 I think). I did two mounts and tightened the screws by hand all the way down until I couldn't tighten anymore, but no change. I used the 2011 mounting screws etc. Then I took the mounting kit from the EK block (I really like it too) and only added the metal washers under the springs and tightened it all the way I could...temps dropped 13c on the hottest core! And then imagine 18 cores.
> 
> I don't know if it's even possible to bend the block by tightening but definitely it seems that the pressure got way better with the EK mounting stuff. Has this block been designed to smaller CPUs so it's bowing too much in the center? I hope that the block didn't bend so much it would cause I leak, I guess not because it looks VERY durable. Anyway whatever works, works right? I am still open to ideas on this.


The way you describe it, it sounds as if you didn't reapply the IHS correctly. Please be aware that our mounting solution is optimized to sit perfectly on the IHS by fractions of a millimeter. So, if you used too much or to little glue to reapply the IHS and thus changed its height, it is most likely that you moved the IHS out of the perfect tolerance.
ANd it's definitely not possible to bend the Heatkiller IV with a few screws, springs, and the force of hand. This thing is STRONG 



Barefooter said:


> Those fitting look really nice! Any chance the shut-off valve has a metal handle on it?
> The Bitspower ones have plastic handles and they always break.


Yup. The handle is milled aluminum, and it's REALLY robust.



SoMBrA said:


> Wow very nice Jakob.
> You mentioned earlier that this are barrow fittings right?
> Did you guys order rotary fittings too? (need some adapters really. Male to male!)


No male to male adapter yet. These 20 pieces is our complete starting lineup. This is our test run to see how well these fittings are received by the customer. If they get bought well, we'll most likely extend the lineup. I'm open to suggestions (yes, I already noted male to male rotary ). 



M-oll said:


> When we're on the subject of backplates: is it possible to order a custom backplate made out of copper instead of anodized aluminium from you? Since you have a design for the backplate made to match your waterblock and a means to manufacture it I don't have to my own RnD and then find a manufacturer etc.


In theory: yes. But: we'd have to resource the source material in the right thickness, make a new program on the machines (Aluminum and copper behave very differently, so you need to modify EVERY step of the program), we'd have to make 2-3 prototypes, the surface needs a special treatment... All for one single piece. We'd easily be in the 4-digit numbers here :// So it's not worth it, neither for you nor for us.


----------



## xarot

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The way you describe it, it sounds as if you didn't reapply the IHS correctly. Please be aware that our mounting solution is optimized to sit perfectly on the IHS by fractions of a milimeter. So, if you used to much or to little glue to reapply the IHS and thus changed its height, it is most likely that you moved the IHS out of the perfect tolerance.
> ANd it's definitely not possible to bend the Heatkiller IV with a few screws, springs, and the force of hand. This thing is STRONG


Thanks Jakob,

It's very possible, although I didn't glue it back and removed the glue from the IHS side only so that it would still sit nicely there instead of floating on the die only.

I have another custom copper IHS I could try, but currently running out of time again so maybe someday.

Really like the looks of the copper HK items.


----------



## catbuster

Great prices on barrow fittings!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

*Announcement:
*









We are proud to announce that from this day on, you can find a selection of BARROW fittings in our online store. To our knowledge, we are the only store in Europe where you can buy Barrow fittings and Mayhems or Primochill tubing in one place. In combination with our very own water blocks, reservoirs, and radiators, customers can now find all premium products from all categories necessary for a watercooling loop in one place!


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> *Announcement:
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are proud to announce that from this day on, you can find a selection of BARROW fittings in our online store. To our knowledge, we are the only store in Europe where you can buy Barrow fittings and Mayhems or Primochill tubing in one place. In combination with our very own water blocks, reservoirs, and radiators, customers can now find all premium products from all categories necessary for a watercooling loop in one place!


Welcome to the barrow club!
Now you just need to release those new rads and you're all good to go.


----------



## Streetdragon

catbuster said:


> Great prices on barrow fittings!


great? hmmm nahhh still cheaper at an GB Seller. Even with shipping lol^^
Sure they wanna make profit... but that is still a bit overpriced.

Example: Barrow Compression Fitting 16/10 black 5.45€
GP-Ebay-seller: 3.60pound -> 4.11€
shipping i a bit more expensive at GB but all in all^^


----------



## ProRules

Barrow fittings?
Glad to hear that! a top quality and great price combination 
You guys are kings.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all, I need a little advice.
I am thinking of going with hardline for my build now but I have never worked with the stuff. 
Right now I have UV tubing with 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD. I am assuming hardline works with different types of fittings also.

What will I need to cut and bend the stuff along with fittings and adapters? Links are extremely helpful as can be short but good tutorials. I tend to loose interest on lengthy tutorials.


----------



## TheArkratos

Madmaxneo said:


> Hey all, I need a little advice.
> I am thinking of going with hardline for my build now but I have never worked with the stuff.
> Right now I have UV tubing with 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD. I am assuming hardline works with different types of fittings also.
> 
> What will I need to cut and bend the stuff along with fittings and adapters? Links are extremely helpful as can be short but good tutorials. I tend to loose interest on lengthy tutorials.


Personal Recommendation: 
Fitting brand: Barrow
Tubing size: 12mm (I find 12mm easier to do clean bends on than larger tubing)
Tubing type: PETG for beginners (personally I use acrylic, I think it looks clearer and doesn't scratch as easily, but it's harder to work with)

Tools needed: 
Heatgun: Any old heatgun will work, but I prefer one with temperature control (Mine is a Wagner)
Silicon insert: Get whatever brand matches your tubing (Personal recommendation, if you are going with 12mm PETG, get bitspower 12mm PETG the inner diameter is 10mm as opposed to barrow that will have 8mm ID. It's not a problem or anything but 10/12 is more common and probably easier to work with)
Cutting tool: with PETG any old set of pipe cutters will work (acrylic needs a saw)
Reamer: Honestly any pipe reamer should work.

Optional tools:
Mandrel set: Some people free hand, I personally don't. For 12mm Barrow makes the cheapest Mandrel set that I know of.
Finishing bit: This is super optional but honestly one of my favorite tools if you have access to a drill. This thing basically replaces the reamer, but also has the ability to shave down the end of the tubing if it's too long. (https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit) 12mm is about 1/2 inch.

Fittings, you are looking for the 12mm hardline compression fittings. There are several versions floating around for barrow, I'd recommend the straight ones being V1 over V4 (the difference is version number, V4 has an extra o-ring making them taller) and I'd recommend the 90 degree rotaries to 12mm compression.

Last recommendation... Buy lots of little extensions of various sizes, they are cheap and will make your life so much easier.


----------



## Madmaxneo

TheArkratos said:


> Personal Recommendation:
> Fitting brand: Barrow
> Tubing size: 12mm (I find 12mm easier to do clean bends on than larger tubing)
> Tubing type: PETG for beginners (personally I use acrylic, I think it looks clearer and doesn't scratch as easily, but it's harder to work with)
> 
> Tools needed:
> Heatgun: Any old heatgun will work, but I prefer one with temperature control (Mine is a Wagner)
> Silicon insert: Get whatever brand matches your tubing (Personal recommendation, if you are going with 12mm PETG, get bitspower 12mm PETG the inner diameter is 10mm as opposed to barrow that will have 8mm ID. It's not a problem or anything but 10/12 is more common and probably easier to work with)
> Cutting tool: with PETG any old set of pipe cutters will work (acrylic needs a saw)
> Reamer: Honestly any pipe reamer should work.
> 
> Optional tools:
> Mandrel set: Some people free hand, I personally don't. For 12mm Barrow makes the cheapest Mandrel set that I know of.
> Finishing bit: This is super optional but honestly one of my favorite tools if you have access to a drill. This thing basically replaces the reamer, but also has the ability to shave down the end of the tubing if it's too long. (https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit) 12mm is about 1/2 inch.
> 
> Fittings, you are looking for the 12mm hardline compression fittings. There are several versions floating around for barrow, I'd recommend the straight ones being V1 over V4 (the difference is version number, V4 has an extra o-ring making them taller) and I'd recommend the 90 degree rotaries to 12mm compression.
> 
> Last recommendation... Buy lots of little extensions of various sizes, they are cheap and will make your life so much easier.


Thanks, but wow. By looking at the tools you recommend I did not realize there was that much involved with this. I will need to see some good tutorials to even think about starting!...lol.


----------



## iamjanco

MO-RA3 package showed up--that was fast!!! From Watercool on Monday to the Adirondacks just now. Box had a decent sized hole in one side and I had FedEx annotate that, then signed for it. That said, on first inspection of the contents, it looks like the "I-beam" that went through the box missed anything that counts. 

I'll check everything closely after work today and maybe share some pix of the unboxing.


----------



## TrippinBimmer

1 - HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1156 - Able to update this waterblock to the new mount? 
1 - HEATKILLERÂ® Backplate LGA1156
2 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² GTX285
1 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² Triple-Link


----------



## TheArkratos

Madmaxneo said:


> Thanks, but wow. By looking at the tools you recommend I did not realize there was that much involved with this. I will need to see some good tutorials to even think about starting!...lol.


It's honestly not bad. Soft tubing is really a situation of: use scissors to cut to length.

hard tubing is: bend tubing (silicone insert, heat gun, mandrels), cut to length (cutters), clean up the tubing end (mandrel, finishing bit).

soft tubing is: buy compression barb fittings. Straight and maybe some 90s...

hard tubing is: buy hardline compression fittings. Straight and definitely some 90s (imo). And those can be a 90 + compression or both built into one fitting. Lastly extensions are far more useful for clean hardline builds than soft tubing because if something doesn't line up either you have to bend the tubing so it does, or use fittings to move the fitting so it does.

Personally since I've really gotten into this stuff, I have a scroll saw, a belt sander, and finishing bit that I use for various things that also make working with tubing much faster.


----------



## MNMadman

iamjanco said:


> MO-RA3 package showed up--that was fast!!! From Watercool on Monday to the Adirondacks just now. Box had a decent sized hole in one side and I had FedEx annotate that, then signed for it. That said, on first inspection of the contents, it looks like the "I-beam" that went through the box missed anything that counts.
> 
> I'll check everything closely after work today and maybe share some pix of the unboxing.


Nice. My first Watercool order should arrive on Monday (three weeks after ordering). I just placed my MO-RA3 (White 360 LT plus accessories) order today, so we'll see how long that takes.

And yes, please share some pics. I want to see this bad boy in action!


----------



## LiquidHaus

It's interested that so many people are purchasing the MO-RA3 when they're launching a completely new line of radiators soon, but I have to be honest and say having one of those monsters would be insane haha


----------



## TheArkratos

lifeisshort117 said:


> It's interested that so many people are purchasing the MO-RA3 when they're launching a completely new line of radiators soon, but I have to be honest and say having one of those monsters would be insane haha


At some point I want to get one and literally use it as the base for building a case.


----------



## fx3861

Madmaxneo said:


> Thanks, but wow. By looking at the tools you recommend I did not realize there was that much involved with this. I will need to see some good tutorials to even think about starting!...lol.


It's not that hard really, i'm a noob in watercooling & in my first built, i jumped straight into hard line. It might take a while to get used to the bending and waste sone tubes for practices. Once you get the hang of it, you wana go for all the crazy bends.???. Now i'm thinkin of goin into glass tubings.


----------



## iamjanco

MNMadman said:


> Nice. My first Watercool order should arrive on Monday (three weeks after ordering). I just placed my MO-RA3 (White 360 LT plus accessories) order today, so we'll see how long that takes.
> 
> And yes, please share some pics. I want to see this bad boy in action!


Thanks, will do 



lifeisshort117 said:


> It's interested that so many people are purchasing the MO-RA3 when they're launching a completely new line of radiators soon, but I have to be honest and say having one of those monsters would be insane haha


One? How about two, stacked vertically with *eight of these* 

@Watercool-Jakob You were right about the heft of these, wow! Now that I have them in my hands, I'm working out the mounting scenario for them (I'm now thinking best mounted to the wall studs as you originally suggested; and I'm going to need a bigger hammer :kookoo. The wall mounting brackets threw me for a loop at first because of the two different sizes in each pair (thought I had a mix of the 360 and 420 brackets). Then I unwrapped one of the rads... (gorgeous). 

Great packing job btw; though if I had to suggest anything, it would be a FedEx-safe steel reinforced outer carton.


----------



## MNMadman

lifeisshort117 said:


> It's interested that so many people are purchasing the MO-RA3 when they're launching a completely new line of radiators soon, but I have to be honest and say having one of those monsters would be insane haha


The new release right now is just an ETA as they are only in the prototyping stage. At some point, you have to pull the trigger on a purchase rather than waiting.

I would gladly test the new rads out for Watercool since I'm in a very small minority that would run them with high-speed fans. But I'm not delaying my new build just for the new rads. For all we know, they may suck (I highly doubt it but the possibility is there).


----------



## M-oll

Watercool-Jakob said:


> In theory: yes. But: we'd have to resource the source material in the right thickness, make a new program on the machines (Aluminum and copper behave very differently, so you need to modify EVERY step of the program), we'd have to make 2-3 prototypes, the surface needs a special treatment... All for one single piece. We'd easily be in the 4-digit numbers here :// So it's not worth it, neither for you nor for us.


Thank you for your reply. I guess I either have to let go of my idea or win the lottery then.


----------



## Wally West

Watercool-Jakob said:


> In theory: yes. But: we'd have to resource the source material in the right thickness, make a new program on the machines (Aluminum and copper behave very differently, so you need to modify EVERY step of the program), we'd have to make 2-3 prototypes, the surface needs a special treatment... All for one single piece. We'd easily be in the 4-digit numbers here :// So it's not worth it, neither for you nor for us.


 Is it possible to have custom backplate in (lets say) gunmetal (or silver) instead of all black?


----------



## muzammil84

Got some incredible bits from Watercool for my Project Luna. These are so heavy and shiny, I can't stop looking at them 











































































link to my full build log:

http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


----------



## ProRules

Stunning GPU block!


----------



## Madmaxneo

muzammil84 said:


> Got some incredible bits from Watercool for my Project Luna. These are so heavy and shiny, I can't stop looking at them


That is an awesome looking MB! It'll look great with those nice and shiny parts!!


----------



## iamjanco

Yeah, it's hard to beat the Heatkiller gpu blocks. Wish they would have made them for the FTW3.

Worked out the framework for what's to become my stacked MO-RA3 dulies (I promised pix which will eventually come, though I'll probably post one or two quickies):

Edited: added one quick, cheap shot of the package contents (apologies). I probably won't use the two sets of wall-mount brackets, nor the reservoir brackets, but I may end up ordering another pair of stainless steel grills. The 3060 framework I have planned will allow me to mount a set on the rear of the rads after some minor mods to accommodate mounting tabs. It will also allow me to go push/pull should the need arise:


----------



## ht_addict

Just got my Heatkiller Pro TR4 for my Threadripper couple weeks ago. Was installing and as I was turning one of the screws to tighten the end broke off in the mounting hole. Watercool was nice enough to send me a couple new screws. Now I have to find the time to remove the motherboard, remove the retention bracket from the motherboard and drill out the screw. Luckily I enjoy taking apart my computer.


----------



## Nineball_Seraph

ProRules said:


> Stunning GPU block!


Damn, thats a beautiful block.


----------



## ProRules

Nineball_Seraph said:


> Damn, thats a beautiful block.


It sure is!
I have worked before with: EK, Barrow, Bykski, Bitspower, XSPC and what not..
The Heatkiller IV GPU blocks are so far, the highest quality for sure.
Truly a master piece above the rest.


----------



## snef

heatkiller on opening scene of the "Evolutionary Maximus Formula - Republic of Gamers" Video


----------



## nickbaldwin86

https://www.facebook.com/racer.baldwin/videos/1186103954859307/


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

TrippinBimmer said:


> 1 - HEATKILLERÂ® CPU Rev3.0 1156 - Able to update this waterblock to the new mount?
> 1 - HEATKILLERÂ® Backplate LGA1156
> 2 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² GTX285
> 1 - HEATKILLERÂ® GPU-XÂ² Triple-Link


Um. Well, I'm not entirely sure what to do with this list. Are you asking for advice, or are you listing your parts?



lifeisshort117 said:


> It's interested that so many people are purchasing the MO-RA3 when they're launching a completely new line of radiators soon, but I have to be honest and say having one of those monsters would be insane haha


I'd say they cater for two different demands: the MO-RA3 is the perfect choice for reaching the smallest possible temperatures, or a near-passive silent mode (with higher temps, ofc). The internal rads that are to come will be for the "standard" mounting positions inside of a case. So, I'd think they don't really compete against each other.



iamjanco said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* You were right about the heft of these, wow! Now that I have them in my hands, I'm working out the mounting scenario for them (I'm now thinking best mounted to the wall studs as you originally suggested; and I'm going to need a bigger hammer :kookoo. The wall mounting brackets threw me for a loop at first because of the two different sizes in each pair (thought I had a mix of the 360 and 420 brackets). Then I unwrapped one of the rads... (gorgeous).
> 
> Great packing job btw; though if I had to suggest anything, it would be a FedEx-safe steel reinforced outer carton.


Oops. Yes, we'll need to integrate the wallmounts to the manual. Thanks for the reminder!
And after seeing that hole in your package, I'm just happy nothing was damaged!



Wally West said:


> Is it possible to have custom backplate in (lets say) gunmetal (or silver) instead of all black?


We can da raw aluminum. But we cannot offer custom paint jobs, unfortunately. You could, however, take the aluminum backplate to an anodizing-shop of your choosing and get custom colors there.



muzammil84 said:


> Got some incredible bits from Watercool for my Project Luna. These are so heavy and shiny, I can't stop looking at them
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> link to my full build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to see what you're gonna do with them! 
And man, that Taichi boards look better with every new generation. And the combination with the Nickel block really works well - this will be good!



ProRules said:


> Stunning GPU block!


Thanks for sharing! Really stunned by your final build!



iamjanco said:


> Worked out the framework for what's to become my stacked MO-RA3 dulies (I promised pix which will eventually come, though I'll probably post one or two quickies):


HA! That looks amazing! Definitely keep us updated, I want to see this monstrosity coming to life 



snef said:


> heatkiller on opening scene of the "Evolutionary Maximus Formula - Republic of Gamers" Video
> 
> http://youtu.be/c8QEUu7pATQ


You're the man!
Btw now I'm doing free promo for ASUS  And, they should have never been allowed to photoshop your color choices, it looked so much better your way!



nickbaldwin86 said:


> https://www.facebook.com/racer.baldwin/videos/1186103954859307/


Nice! Do you also have a longer shot of that? I love seeing how the coolant flows through our block!


----------



## nickbaldwin86

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nice! Do you also have a longer shot of that? I love seeing how the coolant flows through our block!


Please check out my Instagram page @ baldwinracing86 I have a video on there of the filling of the loop. I plan to make more videos now that I have the pump "tuned" for the fluid


----------



## Abaidor

Any advice regarding how to clean / flush the MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel? (I guess the internals are all the same but mentioning just to be sure).

Does it need special cleaning? I was planning on connecting a tap to one of its inlets with 2-3 bars pressure for a good flushing. Then connecting it to my Reverse Osmosis Filter and flush so all remnants of tap water are gone (shaking as well). Then maybe use a light solution of white vinegar for 5-6 hours and finally flush again with constant flow from the filter (it has a pump too) to dissolve any traces of vinegar out of it. 

Is this needed or should I just flush with clean RO/DI water?


----------



## TrippinBimmer

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Um. Well, I'm not entirely sure what to do with this list. Are you asking for advice, or are you listing your parts?
> 
> 
> I'd say they cater for two different demands: the MO-RA3 is the perfect choice for reaching the smallest possible temperatures, or a near-passive silent mode (with higher temps, ofc). The internal rads that are to come will be for the "standard" mounting positions inside of a case. So, I'd think they don't really compete against each other.
> 
> 
> Oops. Yes, we'll need to integrate the wallmounts to the manual. Thanks for the reminder!
> And after seeing that hole in your package, I'm just happy nothing was damaged!
> 
> 
> We can da raw aluminum. But we cannot offer custom paint jobs, unfortunately. You could, however, take the aluminum backplate to an anodizing-shop of your choosing and get custom colors there.
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to see what you're gonna do with them!
> And man, that Taichi boards look better with every new generation. And the combination with the Nickel block really works well - this will be good!
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing! Really stunned by your final build!
> 
> 
> 
> HA! That looks amazing! Definitely keep us updated, I want to see this monstrosity coming to life
> 
> 
> You're the man!
> Btw now I'm doing free promo for ASUS  And, they should have never been allowed to photoshop your color choices, it looked so much better your way!
> 
> 
> Nice! Do you also have a longer shot of that? I love seeing how the coolant flows through our block!



Just listing my parts. Maybe i need new parts lolz


----------



## iamjanco

Abaidor said:


> Any advice regarding how to clean / flush the MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel? (I guess the internals are all the same but mentioning just to be sure).
> 
> Does it need special cleaning? I was planning on connecting a tap to one of its inlets with 2-3 bars pressure for a good flushing. Then connecting it to my Reverse Osmosis Filter and flush so all remnants of tap water are gone (shaking as well). Then maybe use a light solution of white vinegar for 5-6 hours and finally flush again with constant flow from the filter (it has a pump too) to dissolve any traces of vinegar out of it.
> 
> Is this needed or should I just flush with clean RO/DI water?


Waiting for Jakob to chime in here, but I think you'll get a mix of responses ranging the gamut from using plain distilled water to Coca Cola (which you may have already read). I'll be doing the 24-hour big bucket/distilled run through a (5 micron) filter approach myself, as these radiators are supposed to be pretty clean from the get go. If there is anything inside them it'll show up in the filter and should that be case, I'll do a second run, maybe with a bit of something mildly acidic (e.g., vinegar). I'll post some pix once I get the things set up to do that.

Before I do any of that though, I'll connect my (air) pressure test setup to them and run them up to 8-10psi just to make sure they hold air over an extended period of time (e.g., an hour or so). 

That said, I'm a little confused by your mention of connecting the rad to your reverse osmosis filter. Up until about a decade ago, I kept a saltwater aquarium which I used to make my own roi water for using a reverse osmosis filter (four canister setup into a 33 gallon plastic garbage pail). Given the steady (but weak) output of that setup, I don't see how using one like it could provide much in the way of flushing action. Your setup might be different though, simpler, allowing a higher rate of flow output (but perhaps less pure?).


----------



## Abaidor

iamjanco said:


> Waiting for Jakob to chime in here, but I think you'll get a mix of responses ranging the gamut from using plain distilled water to Coca Cola (which you may have already read). I'll be doing the 24-hour big bucket/distilled run through a (5 micron) filter approach myself, as these radiators are supposed to be pretty clean from the get go. If there is anything inside them it'll show up in the filter and should that be case, I'll do a second run, maybe with a bit of something mildly acidic (e.g., vinegar). I'll post some pix once I get the things set up to do that.
> 
> Before I do any of that though, I'll connect my (air) pressure test setup to them and run them up to 8-10psi just to make sure they hold air over an extended period of time (e.g., an hour or so).
> 
> That said, I'm a little confused by your mention of connecting the rad to your reverse osmosis filter. Up until about a decade ago, I kept a saltwater aquarium which I used to make my own roi water for using a reverse osmosis filter (four canister setup into a 33 gallon plastic garbage pail). Given the steady (but weak) output of that setup, I don't see how using one like it could provide much in the way of flushing action. Your setup might be different though, simpler, allowing a higher rate of flow output (but perhaps less pure?).



The flushing action will be done by the tap water which is higher pressure. And you are correct on the RO filter. Mine is a 7 stage one with dual parallel membranes and has a pressure pump since I converted it from using it for a salt water Aquarium to a kitchen filter connected to the tap and the fridge. It also has a secondary pressurized water container since even with dual membranes + pump constant flow pressure was on the low side. I can get up to 20L of water at 1.2 bars like that then the pressure drops until it is refilled (automatically). 


Anyway this will be used for rinsing off any light vinegar solution so I will do some shaking as well. Alternatively I might produce a barrel of clean water and use the pump to flush the rad (EK dual D5s).


----------



## chibi

Hi Jakob,

Do you guys offer a sticker or Heatkiller badge I can stick on my res to cover the two holes circled in red?

Thanks


----------



## tiefox

chibi said:


> Hi Jakob,
> 
> Do you guys offer a sticker or Heatkiller badge I can stick on my res to cover the two holes circled in red?
> 
> Thanks


you can disassemble the res and rotate the bottom part to but the roles in another direction.


----------



## chibi

tiefox said:


> you can disassemble the res and rotate the bottom part to but the roles in another direction.



That's correct, however, I am using the front ports to go directly to a pass-through on the case so there's no tubing and has a floating look.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Abaidor said:


> Any advice regarding how to clean / flush the MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel? (I guess the internals are all the same but mentioning just to be sure).
> 
> Does it need special cleaning? I was planning on connecting a tap to one of its inlets with 2-3 bars pressure for a good flushing. Then connecting it to my Reverse Osmosis Filter and flush so all remnants of tap water are gone (shaking as well). Then maybe use a light solution of white vinegar for 5-6 hours and finally flush again with constant flow from the filter (it has a pump too) to dissolve any traces of vinegar out of it.
> 
> Is this needed or should I just flush with clean RO/DI water?


Our Radiators (and especially the MO-RAs) are praised for being very clean in all the reviews. Since we don't use any internal soldering, there is almost no soldering flux residue. We'd suggest flushing with hot tap water, followed by a flush with regular distilled water. That should, in our opinion, be more than enough to clean that rad.



chibi said:


> Hi Jakob,
> 
> Do you guys offer a sticker or Heatkiller badge I can stick on my res to cover the two holes circled in red?
> 
> Thanks


Unfortunately not


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our Radiators (and especially the MO-RAs) are praised for being very clean in all the reviews. Since we don't use any internal soldering, there is almost no soldering flux residue. We'd suggest flushing with hot tap water, followed by a flush with regular distilled water. That should, in our opinion, be more than enough to clean that rad. (


Great! It's not like I would enjoy a multi-step cleaning process so I will follow your advice.


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> Yeah, it's hard to beat the Heatkiller gpu blocks. Wish they would have made them for the FTW3.
> 
> Worked out the framework for what's to become my stacked MO-RA3 dulies (I promised pix which will eventually come, though I'll probably post one or two quickies):
> 
> Edited: added one quick, cheap shot of the package contents (apologies). I probably won't use the two sets of wall-mount brackets, nor the reservoir brackets, but I may end up ordering another pair of stainless steel grills. The 3060 framework I have planned will allow me to mount a set on the rear of the rads after some minor mods to accommodate mounting tabs. It will also allow me to go push/pull should the need arise:


80/20 t-slot framework for the stacked MO-RA3s arrived (the longer pieces are one meter in length):


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## iamjanco

Jameswalt1 said:


>


Beautiful work, James! :thumb:


----------



## nickbaldwin86

@Jameswalt1 Work of art! 



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nice! Do you also have a longer shot of that? I love seeing how the coolant flows through our block!


Ask and receive! 

Enjoy!


----------



## fx3861

Jameswalt1 said:


>


look like a Robotic spider from the top view to me. Sexy skinny legs...???


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

*First independent review for our Threadripper block available

*I'm happy to say that the first independent testing site published their review of our Threadripper block. Unfortunately, it's german, so most of you won't fully understand how much in love they are with design and build quality - but you will definitely understand the following graphs:

Flow (in liters/hour)










Delta-T CPU/Water at Max Flow










Delta-T CPU/Water at fixed flowrate of 80l/h (0.35gallon/minute)










We are quite happy with these results and look forward to a few more reviews from other testers!



*Barrow fittings:*

We got the final tax- and customs-invoice for our Barrow fittings. It is less than we calculated with, and of course, we want our customers to benefit from this! So we adjusted the prices for many Barrow fittings in our shop!


* New Tubing:*

And we got ANOTHER set of new products: EPDM tubing. These tubes are completely plasticizer-free, very kink-resistant, black matte, without any imprint - the perfect choice for performance-oriented enthusiasts! We offer them in ID 3/8" - 1/2" OD (13/10mm) and ID 3/8" - 5/8" OD (16/10mm). Check it all out!!!




Jameswalt1 said:


>


I am so in love with your work! Can't wait to see it with fluid!



nickbaldwin86 said:


> Ask and receive!
> 
> Enjoy!


Thanks for sharing!


----------



## ruffhi

Watercool-Jakob said:


> *First independent review for our Threadripper block available
> 
> *I'm happy to say that the first independent testing site published their review of our Threadripper block. Unfortunately, it's german, so most of you won't fully understand how much in love they are with design and build quality - but you will definitely understand the following graphs:


There is an english flag (top right) on that site. I am pretty sure that the translate is via google (or similar) ... while it is readable ... it does have some pretty funny translations.

Example: _Cool Water is here the same path as Phanteks. This means that you simply infects the Led controller on the motherboard and adjusting the color via software. If there is something that we like not as good, it is the entrance on the right. Here you have of tubing which is not always equal to the optical Ideal usually crosswise. However, this is also to criticism at the highest level._

Here is google's version of the above (German to English) ... 

_Watercool goes the same way as Phanteks. This means that you just plug the Led Controller into the mainboard and set the color via software. If there's something we do not like so much, it's the entrance on the right. Here you usually have to cross over cross what does not always correspond to the optical ideal. However, this is also criticism at the highest level._


----------



## skline00

Abaidor: I have owned my MO-RA3-420Pro for over 2 years and have used it on a number of cooling projects. The first thing you need are 2 sets of quick release couplings. I spent the $$$ to buy the best Koolaance quick release cuplings at the time. I use 1/2"ID/3/4"OD flexible tubing. My Male Koolance coupling is a QD4-M 13x19 (101341) and the Female coupling is QD4-F 13x19 (101341). I bought 2 sets and being able to quick detach with virtually no leakage is a godsend.

I read online how to construct a filtering system for rads so I'll tell you what I did. 

I went to my local Lowes and bought a Whirlpool inline water filtration unit, mine is the WHKF-DWH. A little salty but comes with two filters and is well made. I also bought a decent submersible water pump (@$20). I bought a Lowes 5 gallon plastic bucket.

You need to drill 2 3/4"holes near the top of the bucket at 90 degrees from each other to route the return water tube and the output water tube. I attached the water filter to 3/4" tubing on both intake and output. On the other end of the tube from the filter you attach a quick connect that attaches to the quick connect on the MO-RA3. The input line to the filter should be coming from the output of the submersible pump. The other end of the MO-RA3 line dumps the water back into the 5 gallon pail. You run the system over night changing water frequently till it is clear. Distilled water is so cheap here (@$1 per gallon that I purchase 5 gallons of distilled and keep replacing them with fresh.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> we got ANOTHER set of new products: EPDM tubing. These tubes are completely plasticizer-free, very kink-resistant, black matte, without any imprint - the perfect choice for performance-oriented enthusiasts! We offer them ..


I for one am happy to see this, good thinking there.
But since we're talking Barrow fittings now, i haz question. Have you tried this specific 10/16 tubing with a 10/16 barrow fitting? If this sounds a bit too self-evident, i'd remind here that similar tubing from other brands comes at a 15,9 diameter (or 16,2 if i was to mention the other variant), making it a non-optimal match. Possible mind, just takes some doing.

If this fits like a glove, win for me. The more i can get from a local/EU seller, the merrier


----------



## iamjanco

Testing forum functionality, please ignore.


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> Testing forum functionality, please ignore.


No worries, have had issues with this specific thread twice now. First time, about a week past, i kept getting subscription notifications even though no new posts were made; second time, wrote something that took a full day to show.. post right above yours in fact.
Hasn't happened anywhere else. Yet.


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> No worries, have had issues with this specific thread twice now. First time, about a week past, i kept getting subscription notifications even though no new posts were made; second time, wrote something that took a full day to show.. post right above yours in fact.
> Hasn't happened anywhere else. Yet.


Yeah, pretty much the same thing here. I actually mentioned it *here*, but when the issue cleared up after I posted the test message to this thread, I wrote it off as "gremlins" being addressed by this WIP (the forum migration).


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> "gremlins" .. the forum migration


Gremlings need a Joe Dante and a house with a vinyl record player to grace you with an appearance. I wouldn't put this on them ^^
But at least we're hip now, forum looking the exact same way all other forums look, so i'm sure that's something, lol

Back on topic, Daz from DazMode is unhappy about Watercool delays, enough to make mention of it in the latest video. Youtube personas unite, i mean how dare they! Irony aside, i never got this.. you know they make them themselves, you know it takes them time, you know they have a backlog. The only reason you purchase from smaller companies in the first place is product quality. So why complain now? :S
And kudos to Watercool.de for not "rushing" Daz's order by jumping it forward (aka to the anonymous' buyer's loss). I respect that immensely.


----------



## MNMadman

Aenra said:


> No worries, have had issues with this specific thread twice now. First time, about a week past, i kept getting subscription notifications even though no new posts were made; second time, wrote something that took a full day to show.. post right above yours in fact.
> Hasn't happened anywhere else. Yet.


I have found that if you change the number of forum posts per page away from Forum Default, it will show the posts correctly. There have been several threads that definitely had new posts but I couldn't see the entire last page of the thread, along with two times where my own post didn't show up for almost a day. The entire problem went away when I set PPP to 50 and I've been good for several weeks now.


----------



## Aenra

MNMadman said:


> I've been good for several weeks now


Thanks a lot for the tip!


----------



## iamjanco

^+1 Thanks as well


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Gremlings need a Joe Dante and a house with a vinyl record player to grace you with an appearance. I wouldn't put this on them ^^
> But at least we're hip now, forum looking the exact same way all other forums look, so i'm sure that's something, lol
> 
> Back on topic, Daz from DazMode is unhappy about Watercool delays, enough to make mention of it in the latest video. Youtube personas unite, i mean how dare they! Irony aside, i never got this.. you know they make them themselves, you know it takes them time, you know they have a backlog. The only reason you purchase from smaller companies in the first place is product quality. So why complain now? :S
> And kudos to Watercool.de for not "rushing" Daz's order by jumping it forward (aka to the anonymous' buyer's loss). I respect that immensely.


I agree, WaterCool serves their customers well.

Daz can just be patient and wait his turn, lol.
All of my orders from WaterCool have been promptly delivered, I really enjoy buying directly from them.


----------



## chibi

DerComissar said:


> I agree, WaterCool serves their customers well.
> 
> All of my orders from WaterCool have been promptly delivered, I really enjoy buying directly from them.



Very true, especially for such a niche market such as pc watercooling. It also really helps with such a great forum presence from Jakob. Job well done sir!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> I for one am happy to see this, good thinking there.
> But since we're talking Barrow fittings now, i haz question. Have you tried this specific 10/16 tubing with a 10/16 barrow fitting? If this sounds a bit too self-evident, i'd remind here that similar tubing from other brands comes at a 15,9 diameter (or 16,2 if i was to mention the other variant), making it a non-optimal match. Possible mind, just takes some doing.
> 
> If this fits like a glove, win for me. The more i can get from a local/EU seller, the merrier


Yes, we tried the tubing and the Barrow fittings together. They are definitely compatible and form a very durable seal. That's why we liked the Barrow fittings in the first place: they have a small "nose" on the inside of the nut that REALLY presses the tubing to the nozzle, much harder and sturdier than most other fittings. Of course, this means that it requires a little more force to screw them down. Since EPDM is "harder" than PVC tubing, it requires even more force to compress it. 
So, they fit with each other - but it's a real work to tighten them down.



Aenra said:


> Back on topic, Daz from DazMode is unhappy about Watercool delays, enough to make mention of it in the latest video. Youtube personas unite, i mean how dare they! Irony aside, i never got this.. you know they make them themselves, you know it takes them time, you know they have a backlog. The only reason you purchase from smaller companies in the first place is product quality. So why complain now? :S
> And kudos to Watercool.de for not "rushing" Daz's order by jumping it forward (aka to the anonymous' buyer's loss). I respect that immensely.


Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I'll talk to Daz and explain our situation to him.



chibi said:


> Very true, especially for such a niche market such as pc watercooling. It also really helps with such a great forum presence from Jakob. Job well done sir!


Thank you 

We are in a strange place right now. Over the last year, we grew so immensely fast. Sales from end customers almost doubled, we scored a BIG industrial contract, demand by resellers grew... A lot of the structures and processes that were fine for many years are suddenly to small-scale, ineffective, or slow. We are working very hard to find additional staff (!!!) and improve our internal process management. But with some things, it simply takes some time to fully analyze how you can improve certain steps.
We are super happy and proud of all the love you guys show us and look forward to growing even more in 2018!


----------



## Paprika

As one of those retailers, one advice would be to just keep us posted as to why things are taking time etc.
Having us prod and push, asking why our orders are delayed etc can easily be worked around by just sending out some updates.

Other then that, great stuff that you're now selling a proper complete ecosystem for watercooling. Just need those rads to come in then full Watercool builds will be the way to go!


----------



## Revan654

DerComissar said:


> I agree, WaterCool serves their customers well.
> 
> Daz can just be patient and wait his turn, lol.
> All of my orders from WaterCool have been promptly delivered, I really enjoy buying directly from them.





Aenra said:


> Back on topic, Daz from DazMode is unhappy about Watercool delays, enough to make mention of it in the latest video. Youtube personas unite, i mean how dare they! Irony aside, i never got this.. you know they make them themselves, you know it takes them time, you know they have a backlog. The only reason you purchase from smaller companies in the first place is product quality. So why complain now? :S
> And kudos to Watercool.de for not "rushing" Daz's order by jumping it forward (aka to the anonymous' buyer's loss). I respect that immensely.


PPCS is waiting for there order Too, According to sales department it was placed back in October and still hasn't arrived yet. 

------

It just seems they can't keep up with the demand.


----------



## Aenra

Revan654 said:


> It just seems they can't keep up with the demand.


That's the one thing i purposefully left out 
This can branch in one of two ways, the good, and the bad. Ramping up within a short period of time is.. a thing. Time will tell.


----------



## paskowitz

Lol, I guess there are too many nice builds out there with Watercool stuff. I have noticed a lot of top modders and nice builds using Watercool lately.


----------



## LiquidHaus

here's the latest revision of the LiquidHaus system..









-








-








-








-








-








-








-


----------



## MNMadman

Nice system. Wish I could do the VRM cooling, but Watercool hasn't put one out for the Taichi board.

Just set my system up over the weekend and discovered that the VRM heatsink heating up BBQs the left-side RAM sticks when the CPU is fully loaded. They get over 20ºC hotter than the right-side RAM sticks.

Now thinking of waiting to install my custom loop until I have either a monoblock or a VRM block. We'll see...


----------



## Aenra

MNMadman said:


> VRM cooling


This is why i resort to EK, CPU+VRM monoblocks are a no-brainer and there's almost never any alternative. Yes, that includes Bitspower, it's almost like they're an Asus company by now; no Asus board? No Bitspower 2-in-1 block. And i never buy Asus boards, so.. 
Anyway, since you've already made a purchase, you could try setting one up yourself. Forget water cooling, buy a nice hefty piece of 100% copper (if you're a member of the RGB generation, i guess you can also anodize it) and drill/saw/file until you can fit it; personally i use thermal paste as inbetween but even silicone will do. Assuming you have an airflow worthy of its name, this is more than enough, trust me*. If you're lucky, the dimensions of the 'block' you will need will be such that you'll able to find one pre-cut to them.. or close enough.

*FX 9590 @ 5.3 core, bridge similarly high, on an Asrock Extreme 9 mobo. VRMs sit around 45-50C, heaven ^^ (well at least they used to, lol, my bro has it now so no idea)


----------



## catbuster

Those bends look amazing every time


----------



## ruffhi

lifeisshort117 said:


> here's the latest revision of the LiquidHaus system..


Are those monsoon EV2 fittings?


----------



## fx3861

lifeisshort117 said:


> here's the latest revision of the LiquidHaus system..


Is that the new byski fitting? Wanted to purchase those fittings for an upgrade soon..


----------



## TheArkratos

fx3861 said:


> Is that the new byski fitting? Wanted to purchase those fittings for an upgrade soon..


Pretty sure it's the new Monsoon Economy fittings.


----------



## LiquidHaus

ruffhi said:


> Are those monsoon EV2 fittings?


Yes, they are EV2s!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

lifeisshort117 said:


> here's the latest revision of the LiquidHaus system..
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -


Oh man, you know how much I love your system!



MNMadman said:


> Nice system. Wish I could do the VRM cooling, but Watercool hasn't put one out for the Taichi board.


We are just very busy with another big project right now. I'll let you know as soon as everything is fixed. But maybe, we'll see each other soon?



Anyone here interested in some more Threadripper test results?

We have the final verdict of Kyle Bennett from [H]ardOCP: you can all read his full review on our block here. But the final result is: our block snagged this shiny trophy...


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> our block snagged this shiny trophy


Congratulations and hopefully one day you'll sort out your universal VRM solution and/or start selling 2-in-1 (cpu+vrm) monoblocks. 
Wrong time to ask for this when you've got so much on your plate, i know, but it would be the cherry on top. Complete Watercool build ^^

Just think competition. It's only EK doing this (bitspower i won't count, because it's only for one brand and it's also too much plastic in it and very expensive to boot). If you could have similar thermal results, which i'm sure you can, in fact they'll probably be better, it's a slice of the pie you could grab. Much to everyone's benefit


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh man, you know how much I love your system!
> 
> We are just very busy with another big project right now. I'll let you know as soon as everything is fixed. But maybe, we'll see each other soon?
> 
> Anyone here interested in some more Threadripper test results?
> 
> We have the final verdict of Kyle Bennett from [H]ardOCP: you can all read his full review on our block here. But the final result is: our block snagged this shiny trophy...


Congrats!



Aenra said:


> Congratulations and hopefully one day you'll sort out your universal VRM solution and/or start selling 2-in-1 (cpu+vrm) monoblocks.
> 
> Wrong time to ask for this when you've got so much on your plate, i know, but it would be the cherry on top. Complete Watercool build ^^
> 
> Just think competition. It's only EK doing this (bitspower i won't count, because it's only for one brand and it's also too much plastic in it and very expensive to boot). If you could have similar thermal results, which i'm sure you can, in fact they'll probably be better, it's a slice of the pie you could grab. Much to everyone's benefit


^+1 -- I'll second that, though I realize just how busy Watercool is at the moment (which is a good thing)


----------



## muzammil84

Still work in progress but this Heatkiller block looks too good not to share some pics )






































full build log(and more Watercool shiny stuff inside!):

http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


----------



## Aenra

I know all some care about is self-promotion, but since this is a forum --not-- dedicated _to_ their self-promoting, at least not exclusively, how about some spoilers please 

Keep the first image out if you just have to show us, but for the rest.. let's make it easier on everyone please.


----------



## muzammil84

Aenra said:


> I know all some care about is self-promotion, but since this is a forum --not-- dedicated _to_ their self-promoting, at least not exclusively, how about some spoilers please
> 
> Keep the first image out if you just have to show us, but for the rest.. let's make it easier on everyone please.


nobody is self promoting. Simply showing pictures of Watercool parts and pointing to more pictures for those who enjoy watching some Heatkiller beauty.


----------



## fx3861

self promoting? showing half completed builds is all abt promoting your ideas, efforts & planning. heck i got almost all of my ideas by looking on how to improvise it. ???


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> I know all some care about is self-promotion, but since this is a forum --not-- dedicated _to_ their self-promoting, at least not exclusively, how about some spoilers please
> 
> Keep the first image out if you just have to show us, but for the rest.. let's make it easier on everyone please.


We're you referring to using spoiler tags when posting multiple large images (sets of images)? I personally think it's a good idea where the shoe fits.  Of course, that's just me. Others may feel differently.


----------



## Barefooter

Aenra said:


> I know all some care about is self-promotion, but since this is a forum --not-- dedicated _to_ their self-promoting, at least not exclusively, how about some spoilers please
> 
> Keep the first image out if you just have to show us, but for the rest.. let's make it easier on everyone please.


It was only four pictures of products that are the topic of this thread.




muzammil84 said:


> nobody is self promoting. Simply showing pictures of Watercool parts and pointing to more pictures for those who enjoy watching some Heatkiller beauty.


I really enjoyed your magnificent pictures, and subscribed to your build log so I can see more as you make progress.


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> I really enjoyed your magnificent pictures, and subscribed to your build log so I can see more as you make progress.


Should have mentioned I enjoyed those build pix as well  Very clean!


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are just very busy with another big project right now. I'll let you know as soon as everything is fixed. But maybe, we'll see each other soon?


I know y'all are busy. I still have to decide whether or not I want to put in the custom loop I have without VRM cooling, now that I know the VRMs are going to get very hot (and cook half of my RAM) with my setup.

Plus I'm getting ticked off at FedEx now. My MO-RA3 was supposed to be delivered on Thursday. Then they delayed it until today. Now today they delayed it again. Grrr!



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Anyone here interested in some more Threadripper test results?
> 
> We have the final verdict of Kyle Bennett from [H]ardOCP: you can all read his full review on our block here. But the final result is: our block snagged this shiny trophy...


I was hoping for an outright win, but a tie for best is almost as good. Looking forward to more reviews as well.


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> Were you referring to using spoiler tags when posting multiple large images (sets of images)?


Yeah ^^

To everyone else, call me cynical first, everything else second 
To ammend then, strike the self-promoting out, accept my apologies and let us re-classify it in any way you find preferable. And again my apologies for being in error. Age often makes me view things the wrong way; if multiple shots of colored fluid and a modder's logo are something to provoke such excitement that one must copy-paste such work/images in multiple threads, by all means go nuts and forgive me for presuming.

Request however remains; please use spoilers, they've remained in the code, decades later, for some very good reasons. You can always keep a good image out of them and include the rest, no reason to clutter the thread and/or force it all on everyone.


----------



## Madmaxneo

muzammil84 said:


> Still work in progress but this Heatkiller block looks too good not to share some pics )
> 
> full build log(and more Watercool shiny stuff inside!):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


I took the images out because there is no way to hide them in a spoiler. 


Nice looking build so far!
Are you doing a steampunk themed build by any chance? I think that would look awesome with that Asrock board you are using.


----------



## muzammil84

Madmaxneo said:


> I took the images out because there is no way to hide them in a spoiler.
> 
> 
> Nice looking build so far!
> Are you doing a steampunk themed build by any chance? I think that would look awesome with that Asrock board you are using.


No steam punk, not my style at all I'm afraid. There's too many steam punk themed builds, I am going a slightly different way pics of finished buuld soon


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

muzammil84 said:


> Still work in progress but this Heatkiller block looks too good not to share some pics )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> full build log(and more Watercool shiny stuff inside!):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


This shot, man! I was highly skeptical about the mirrors, to be honest - but it looks so insanely good! Thanks for sharing! 



Aenra said:


> I know all some care about is self-promotion, but since this is a forum --not-- dedicated _to_ their self-promoting, at least not exclusively, how about some spoilers please
> 
> Keep the first image out if you just have to show us, but for the rest.. let's make it easier on everyone please.


I beg to differ. I continuously encourage people to show pictures of their rigs! I love seeing the multiple ways how people use, change, show off or hide our products! It is a great way of feedback for us, to learn what works good for our customers and what doesn't. And I'd also think it's a great way for other people in the thread to draw inspirations for their own systems from. 



MNMadman said:


> I know y'all are busy. I still have to decide whether or not I want to put in the custom loop I have without VRM cooling, now that I know the VRMs are going to get very hot (and cook half of my RAM) with my setup.
> 
> Plus I'm getting ticked off at FedEx now. My MO-RA3 was supposed to be delivered on Thursday. Then they delayed it until today. Now today they delayed it again. Grrr!
> 
> 
> I was hoping for an outright win, but a tie for best is almost as good. Looking forward to more reviews as well.


Re VRM blocks: We do have our old universal vrmblock series. Judging by pics, they would probably fit the hole pattern of your board. Granted, they are not the prettiest design. They are from an era where it was JUST about function and NOT about design at all  But if I'm getting your approach correctly, this is meant to be a very utilitarian, simplistic rig. Maybe you're happy with them nevertheless? 
Re FedEx: Aw man, sorry to hear that! We had a few shipments to the american east with runtimes longer than normal by 2-4 days in the last few weeks. Let me know when it hits more than a week delay, then we can start an official ticket with them. 
Re Review: someone in the [H]ardOCP forums suggested that maybe, 62°C is the best Kyle's loop can do. The idea is that a single 480 rad could be saturated at that temp, and the blocks (both the Raystorm and ours) could even perform better than that if the rad would be bigger. That would make sense, but unless Kyle wants to upgrade his rig and retest all blocks AGAIN, we'll never know


----------



## Aenra

Jacob you misunderstood me, PMing to clarify (because i don't want to open this discussion a third time here)


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Re VRM blocks: We do have our old universal vrmblock series. Judging by pics, they would probably fit the hole pattern of your board. Granted, they are not the prettiest design. They are from an era where it was JUST about function and NOT about design at all  But if I'm getting your approach correctly, this is meant to be a very utilitarian, simplistic rig. Maybe you're happy with them nevertheless?


If I get desperate enough, I might use one of those. I'd have to buy tools to drill the holes and make it fit. And you're right, the looks don't really matter for this build.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Re FedEx: Aw man, sorry to hear that! We had a few shipments to the american east with runtimes longer than normal by 2-4 days in the last few weeks. Let me know when it hits more than a week delay, then we can start an official ticket with them.


The package arrived this morning, so I'm good.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Re Review: someone in the [H]ardOCP forums suggested that maybe, 62°C is the best Kyle's loop can do. The idea is that a single 480 rad could be saturated at that temp, and the blocks (both the Raystorm and ours) could even perform better than that if the rad would be bigger. That would make sense, but unless Kyle wants to upgrade his rig and retest all blocks AGAIN, we'll never know


I will definitely see when I get my custom loop assembled. Kyle deliberately runs the test Threadripper at 4GHz with more voltage than it actually needs as a worst-case scenario, so you're right it might be overpowering the quad rad.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Can't wait to get this bad boy installed .


----------



## whutt

Wanted to see if the 1080/1070 FTW/FTW2 blocks are compatible with the EVGA 1070 FTW Hybrid cards. It is the only card not listed on the compatibility list - but it is listed on EKWB's chart for their respective 1080 FTW block. Could anyone confirm if Watercool has a block that would work?

Cheers


----------



## andrewmp6

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh man, you know how much I love your system!
> 
> 
> We are just very busy with another big project right now. I'll let you know as soon as everything is fixed. But maybe, we'll see each other soon?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone here interested in some more Threadripper test results?
> 
> We have the final verdict of Kyle Bennett from [H]ardOCP: you can all read his full review on our block here. But the final result is: our block snagged this shiny trophy...


Was that a hint that you will make a block for the x399 asrock taichi maybe?Ek just dropped their monblock for the board,But i rather have heatkiller if i can


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

PuffinMyLye said:


> Can't wait to get this bad boy installed .


Awesome! Make sure to keep us updated, both with temp readings and pics of the final build! Have fun building and thanks for sharing



andrewmp6 said:


> Was that a hint that you will make a block for the x399 asrock taichi maybe?Ek just dropped their monblock for the board,But i rather have heatkiller if i can


No, it wasn't. I'm sorry, sometimes the language barrier catches me out :// We have no plan to make a VRM block for any Motherboard right now. We are super busy with the new radiators and focus our energy on that.



whutt said:


> Wanted to see if the 1080/1070 FTW/FTW2 blocks are compatible with the EVGA 1070 FTW Hybrid cards. It is the only card not listed on the compatibility list - but it is listed on EKWB's chart for their respective 1080 FTW block. Could anyone confirm if Watercool has a block that would work?
> 
> Cheers


We don't know that specific layout yet. It SEEMS like it is just the normal FTW layout with an alternative cooler. If this assumption is correct, our block should be fully compatible. We'll try to get some hard data on this as soon as possible, though!
Thanks for bringing this to our attention!


----------



## Paprika

Hey Jakob, is Christian still around at Watercool? He hasn't been responding any emails lately.


----------



## whutt

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We don't know that specific layout yet. It SEEMS like it is just the normal FTW layout with an alternative cooler. If this assumption is correct, our block should be fully compatible. We'll try to get some hard data on this as soon as possible, though!
> Thanks for bringing this to our attention!


If you guys need a guinea pig let me know


----------



## PuffinMyLye

@Watercool-Jakob Do any of your GPU blocks work with the EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 Edition?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> Hey Jakob, is Christian still around at Watercool? He hasn't been responding any emails lately.


I'm very sorry. There was a misunderstanding between Chris and me, he thought I'd answer you, I thought, he'd do. My bad. Your order is almost done, it will be shipped either Friday or Monday. 



whutt said:


> If you guys need a guinea pig let me know


I researched the card some more, and we are confident that it is, in fact, compatible with our FTW blocks! 



PuffinMyLye said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Do any of your GPU blocks work with the EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 Edition?


Nope, we do not support that card.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nope, we do not support that card.



Damn. I'd swap my two FTW3's if I could find other compatible EVGA cards but they are scarce right now .


----------



## Aenra

Need dimensions (all 3 if possible) for "HEATKILLER® Tube - basic mounting kit". That's product number 30236, seen here: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30236

Anyone that can assist?
Am on the APU upstairs, so not sure if the in-thread search function is faulty or if it's just me, but either way i cannot use it, lol.. so apologies if this has already been answered.


----------



## SoMBrA

Good news!
For the people out there trying to figure out if the Zenith extreme vrm block is compatible with other asus boards I can confirm 100% compatibility with the Asus Strix X399.
And I believe, as other people suggested before, it should be also compatible with the Asus Prime too  @Watercool-Jakob thanks for your help. Hope this helps you with the block sales as the quality is superb. 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Need dimensions (all 3 if possible) for "HEATKILLER® Tube - basic mounting kit". That's product number 30236, seen here: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30236
> 
> Anyone that can assist?
> Am on the APU upstairs, so not sure if the in-thread search function is faulty or if it's just me, but either way i cannot use it, lol.. so apologies if this has already been answered.


Mine measures out to:
L: 90mm
W: 15mm
H: (depth) 28mm 
(not including the mounting screws)


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> Mine measures out to:
> L: 90mm
> W: 15mm
> H: (depth) 28mm
> (not including the mounting screws)



Спасибо комиссáр !


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Спасибо комиссáр !


пожалуйста!

(Yeah, I had to use Google Translate for that, lol.)

Edit for Aenra's post below:
(sorry for the o.t.)
Nah, I'm not Russian, I got that silly name from a song I heard a long time ago, and I evidently spelled it wrong, lol.

Edit again:
Hope the HK brackets work well for you.
I'm not sure if I'm going to use that bracket set, or the stand-alone HK bracket which I also bought for my S8.
You'll likely get yours done before I will though!


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> Yeah, I had to use Google Translate for that, lol



Me too! :wave2:
Name's Comissar, so am thinking Russian more like.. apparently not ^^


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> I'm not sure if I'm going to use that bracket set, or the stand-alone HK bracket which I also bought for my S8.
> You'll likely get yours done before I will though!


Off topic first: I've seen your other build log and it was awesome, the kind of pics that make me wish my hands weren't useless. Art people.. we should all be summarily shot and no one's loss, take it from me, lol.
You really should start another log for the S8. Or if you have, please fix your sig 'cause i looked but i could not find it.

Regarding the bracket alternatives: 
- Not sure which is the extra bracket you're refering to, but going over now to have a look through their shop.
- Am with the SSI-EEB mobo option, so the default vertical plate isn't an option for me as the mobo is right above it and pretty much covers it. Which is perfectly fine for me as from the beginning, my plan was to mount the heatkiller D5 horizontally, bottom left side. I will drill the (empty now obviously) HDD mounting plate so i can screw the brackets on it, plug the res combo there. The joy is that thankfully, the way the screw mounts are oriented, the HDD plate screws from below, outside the chassis. So i'll have it outside the case, with pump already mounted, fill and bleed and let run, externally; when all set, i'll gently lower it until lying horizontal, put it back in. Once back in, i bend down and fasten the HDD mount screws. Have replaced the 'original' screws Caselabs puts there with the other 6/32 variety, the one with the elongated hold. Makes it piss easy to screw and unscrew (which is a good thing, as i cannot see below the chassis and i need go by feel). Having the HD casters set is also a boon, 'cause i don't think there'd be enough space for the 'normal' caster set to spin, not with those tops extruding below. Sometimes OCD is a blessing ^^
Well, that's the plan anyway. If you or anyone else has any objections/comments, do please tell. Size/dimensions-wise am all good for sure, the D5 200 is less than 300mm long and about 87 tall with brackets on; meaning i've got over 60mm before i touch the I/O (and just as much space on the other end, between pump and back fan plate) on the front and about 55mm before i hit the midplate on top. Ports will be on the side, facing towards the external panel, so all good there too.

I'd like to think i've thought this through, but you never know


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Off topic first: I've seen your other build log and it was awesome, the kind of pics that make me wish my hands weren't useless. Art people.. we should all be summarily shot and no one's loss, take it from me, lol.
> You really should start another log for the S8. Or if you have, please fix your sig 'cause i looked but i could not find it.
> 
> Regarding the bracket alternatives:
> - Not sure which is the extra bracket you're refering to, but going over now to have a look through their shop.
> - Am with the SSI-EEB mobo option, so the default vertical plate isn't an option for me as the mobo is right above it and pretty much covers it. Which is perfectly fine for me as from the beginning, my plan was to mount the heatkiller D5 horizontally, bottom left side. I will drill the (empty now obviously) HDD mounting plate so i can screw the brackets on it, plug the res combo there. The joy is that thankfully, the way the screw mounts are oriented, the HDD plate screws from below, outside the chassis. So i'll have it outside the case, with pump already mounted, fill and bleed and let run, externally; when all set, i'll gently lower it until lying horizontal, put it back in. Once back in, i bend down and fasten the HDD mount screws. Have replaced the 'original' screws Caselabs puts there with the other 6/32 variety, the one with the elongated hold. Makes it piss easy to screw and unscrew (which is a good thing, as i cannot see below the chassis and i need go by feel). Having the HD casters set is also a boon, 'cause i don't think there'd be enough space for the 'normal' caster set to spin, not with those tops extruding below. Sometimes OCD is a blessing ^^
> Well, that's the plan anyway. If you or anyone else has any objections/comments, do please tell. Size/dimensions-wise am all good for sure, the D5 200 is less than 300mm long and about 87 tall with brackets on; meaning i've got over 60mm before i touch the I/O (and just as much space on the other end, between pump and back fan plate) on the front and about 55mm before i hit the midplate on top. Ports will be on the side, facing towards the external panel, so all good there too.
> 
> I'd like to think i've thought this through, but you never know


Thank-you.
I don't have a build log for the S8 rebuild yet, but I hope to get started on it soon.™

I should post which other "bracket" I was referring to, it's actually a reservoir stand:
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230

I'm going to install the res. vertically, to the S8 mid-plate, to have it showing through the front window, as I had my previous res. installed.
This one is the Tube 150 res., with the multi-port top.
(I don't think the standard flip-open "bayonet" top would be a good idea for a horizontal reservoir setup though!)

I do like the integrated D5 pump top in your version, it makes for a really slick setup.

That is a really unique plan you have for a horizontal reservoir setup, in the lower left side, the D5 200 should look great there.
I think the styling of these HK reservoirs, with the surrounding cage they have, will lend itself well to a horizontal setup.

There is plenty of room for it in that part of the S8, and using the HDD plate avoids having to drill through the case panels.
Using the 6-32 thumbscrews was a good idea for attaching the HDD plate, to mount the res. in there.
The HD casters are a bit larger apparently, so they will raise the case enough for that extra bit of clearance.

Ports on the side, facing out, that'll give you easy access to them.

I'd say you've thought this out very well.


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> I should post which other "bracket" I was referring to, it's actually a reservoir stand:
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230



I was looking at the Caselabs store, lol.. :headscrat
Yeah, seen that, and with the holes already drilled, i'd do the same if that's where i wanted it. Will you be using any foam sandwich/shock absorbers? I don't know how this plays out on aluminum (first time i'm building in the S8), but i do recall its making a difference on steel surfaces.

* edit: Only just realized.. are you sure i need the multi-port top version? I don't mind either way honestly, i just thought both would do; they do seal, don't they? The flippable tops? 'Cause i've noticed there's an o-ring there.


----------



## ruffhi

PuffinMyLye said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Do any of your GPU blocks work with the EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 Edition?


I was talking to a EVGA tech guy and he said that FTW cards require more power and are never 'standard'.


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> I was looking at the Caselabs store, lol.. :headscrat
> Yeah, seen that, and with the holes already drilled, i'd do the same if that's where i wanted it. Will you be using any foam sandwich/shock absorbers? I don't know how this plays out on aluminum (first time i'm building in the S8), but i do recall its making a difference on steel surfaces.
> 
> * edit: Only just realized.. are you sure i need the multi-port top version? I don't mind either way honestly, i just thought both would do; they do seal, don't they? The flippable tops? 'Cause i've noticed there's an o-ring there.


Lol! I should have specified which HK part that was the first time.

I won't need any vibration dampening for the res., but the 30230 bracket set does come with the "rubberized" mounting bolts, like the ones in their decoupling kit:
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30232

Hopefully that will provide sufficient dampening.

Myself, I have used some foam pads under my dual-D5 mounting brackets, to mount the pumps themselves to the S8 floor, but that's a different situation.
I've had no issues with vibration in the S8, I would think your res./pump combo will work very smoothly.

I don't have the flip-open top, since I ordered my res with the multi-port top.
VSG did a nice review on the HK Tube 200 D5:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/12/13/watercool-heatkiller-tube-200-d5-reservoir/
He compared the two tops on page 2 of his review, as you mentioned, there is an o-ring seal for the top, which should certainly seal the top well.
I just felt that it may not be feasible for horizontal mounting, as it would have to remain closed all the time to avoid spilling coolant, and has no ports on the top for filling/bleeding.

I guess one could tilt the case over to have the reservoir upright, to be able to open it, but that would be a pain! 
For vertical mounting it's certainly a cool idea though, but I prefer to have the extra ports available.


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> I just felt that it may not be feasible for horizontal mounting, as it would have to remain closed all the time to avoid spilling coolant, and has no ports on the top for filling/bleeding. I guess one could tilt the case over to have the reservoir upright, to be able to open it, but that would be a pain!



It's why i'll have it mounted on the HDD mount, itself being so easily detachable 
As mentioned, once everything's mounted, plugged and tubed, i'll take the HDD mount out, lean it on the chassis (so that it's vertical), meaning the res is now vertical too; remember they are one system now. I fill, bleed, still outside the case, once sorted, i just slide it back in. No 50 kilos case tilting required.
Will also have the drain valve attached to a 'T' on the 'Out' port of the pump so draining's gonna be easy too, pump being the lowest point of the entire loop.
(the only downside is the extra tubing length required for taking it all out. But that's O.K.; once back inside, it will be "tied" to the edge of the bottom of the chassis and made to run parallel to it until it makes a 90[ish] degree bend near the front; so even aesthetically speaking, it's gonna look fine)

As to the feasibility of it, let's make sure, lol

@Watercool-Jakob need help. In terms of leaking and _only_ of leaking: For a horizontally mounted Heatkiller D5 200, do i need the alternative multi-port top? Or does the original flippable suffice?


----------



## Aenra

Apologies for the double post but yet again, my last post refuses to appear (even after exiting and deleting cookies) and i need to edit it. Am only posting to see if this helps make page 263 appear for me..

Edit: To Madman: this hasn't helped either, only solution is to have it at 100 posts per page.. anyway, my apologies once again.


----------



## MNMadman

Aenra said:


> Apologies for the double post but yet again, my last post refuses to appear (even after exiting and deleting cookies) and i need to edit it. Am only posting to see if this helps make page 263 appear for me..


Try changing the posts per page in your forum settings. I haven't had a problem with posts or pages displaying since I set mine to 50 PPP.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

SoMBrA said:


> Good news!
> For the people out there trying to figure out if the Zenith extreme vrm block is compatible with other asus boards I can confirm 100% compatibility with the Asus Strix X399.
> And I believe, as other people suggested before, it should be also compatible with the Asus Prime too  @*Watercool-Jakob* thanks for your help. Hope this helps you with the block sales as the quality is superb.


That's great to hear! Thanks for being the guinea pig and confirming it!



DerComissar said:


> I should post which other "bracket" I was referring to, it's actually a reservoir stand:
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30230


Just a quick note: we do over two stand versions, the short stand, and the long stand. If you plan to use a Heatkiller Tube D5, it won't fit with the short stand alone. You'd either have to use the short stand AND the decoupling kit, or the long stand.



ruffhi said:


> I was talking to a EVGA tech guy and he said that FTW cards require more power and are never 'standard'.


The FTW cards also have an extra-wide PCB. I think his question was aiming towards that we do offer blocks that are compatible with the 1080/1070 FTW. But we couldn't manage to make a block for the 1080Ti FTW as well...



DerComissar said:


> I don't have the flip-open top, since I ordered my res with the multi-port top.
> VSG did a nice review on the HK Tube 200 D5:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/12/13/watercool-heatkiller-tube-200-d5-reservoir/
> He compared the two tops on page 2 of his review, as you mentioned, there is an o-ring seal for the top, which should certainly seal the top well.
> I just felt that it may not be feasible for horizontal mounting, as it would have to remain closed all the time to avoid spilling coolant, and has no ports on the top for filling/bleeding.
> 
> I guess one could tilt the case over to have the reservoir upright, to be able to open it, but that would be a pain!
> For vertical mounting it's certainly a cool idea though, but I prefer to have the extra ports available.


Check out this great video by John of Liquidhaus (he's also available in this forum under the name @lifeisshort117 ). You can see how he did exactly that: the bayonet top seals perfectly fine for horizontal mounting.


----------



## Aenra

Thanks for replying Jacob, having a look now 

* Yeah O.K., that's some welcome news right there!
The irony is also not lost on me, as finally here i am, watching a pwetty lightzzz pwnage (!!111!) video like all the other individuals that are somehow attracted to this, wonderful trend, really; just splendid. I can feel my IQ growing just watching those leds going on and off. Oh, and the fittings! He was "*raving* about them in Instagram" man! (his words by the way)! In _Instagram_! Is that not hip or what! Wow, coolzorz! Ah man..

Anyway, ignore the old fart. And once again, many thanks.


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Thanks for replying Jacob, having a look now
> 
> * Yeah O.K., that's some welcome news right there!
> The irony is also not lost on me, as finally here i am, watching a pwetty lightzzz pwnage (!!111!) video like all the other individuals that are somehow attracted to this, wonderful trend, really; just splendid. I can feel my IQ growing just watching those leds going on and off. Oh, and the fittings! He was "*raving* about them in Instagram" man! (his words by the way)! In _Instagram_! Is that not hip or what! Wow, coolzorz! Ah man..
> 
> Anyway, ignore the old fart. And once again, many thanks.





Watercool-Jakob said:


> That's great to hear! Thanks for being the guinea pig and confirming it!
> 
> 
> Just a quick note: we do over two stand versions, the short stand, and the long stand. If you plan to use a Heatkiller Tube D5, it won't fit with the short stand alone. You'd either have to use the short stand AND the decoupling kit, or the long stand.
> 
> 
> The FTW cards also have an extra-wide PCB. I think his question was aiming towards that we do offer blocks that are compatible with the 1080/1070 FTW. But we couldn't manage to make a block for the 1080Ti FTW as well...
> 
> 
> Check out this great video by John of Liquidhaus (he's also available in this forum under the name @lifeisshort117 ). You can see how he did exactly that: the bayonet top seals perfectly fine for horizontal mounting.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJpi39EuHD8


My thanks to you as well Jacob, for posting that amazing video from John at Liquidhaus.
As one can see, there is no problem with the horizontal reservoir setup, with the stock "bayonet" top. 

Also for mentioning the long stand for the HK Tube reservoirs that have the integrated pump. I already bought both versions of the stand, to be able to experiment with the height of my "pumpless" version.

Back to the video, one must appreciate the huge amount of work that John has done, to get all the hard tubing bends so perfect. Incredible.
I keep thinking that it is only missing a nice HK block for the gpu, if it is compatible, but that is what the customer wanted, so that option will always be there.

Meanwhile, I look forward to seeing the new HK radiators when they're done.............


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> one must appreciate the huge amount of work that John has done


Am not a sports person, but i'm sure there's a term for the kind of pass that's done sideways? ^^
Good point there.
I most certainly did not imply anything regarding the technical aspect of his work and/or his merits as a professional modder; is that a term today? Anyway, you get my drift.

Now in as far as mentality, approach and certain trends as existing today, by all means allow me to have my differing, distinct and unpleasant as they may be personal opinions. Just me


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Am not a sports person, but i'm sure there's a term for the kind of pass that's done sideways? ^^
> Good point there.
> I most certainly did not imply anything regarding the technical aspect of his work and/or his merits as a professional modder; is that a term today? Anyway, you get my drift.
> 
> Now in as far as mentality, approach and certain trends as existing today, by all means allow me to have my differing, distinct and unpleasant as they may be personal opinions. Just me


It's all good.

I certainly don't have the ability or talent to match that level of modding creativity, but what counts is that one does what is best for their individual build.
Myself, I'll be running soft tubing again, it works just fine for my needs.

Hooking it up to these lovely HK cpu & gpu blocks, and reservoir, will be a pleasure.


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> Myself, I'll be running soft tubing again, it works just fine for my needs


Likewise, and since they now sell EPDM, i'll be getting all the relevant stuff from them, hopefully more will follow. Competition is good for everyone involved, both sides of the fence.
Am also kinda hoping they'll come up with a dual D5 gizmo that's similar to the D5 200; i'd be seriously tempted to get one even though as things stand, there's hardly any need for such overkill. Just me and my OCD, lol.

Will only - and respectfully - disagree on the rads bit. I switched to "water" cooling to do more with less, not more with more. While there's hardly a need to explain it to me, i get it, this isn't a direction i'm ever liable to head towards. When someone, anyone, makes a rad that beats the Nemesis GTR, by all means inform me.


----------



## MNMadman

DerComissar said:


> Myself, I'll be running soft tubing again, it works just fine for my needs.
> 
> Hooking it up to these lovely HK cpu & gpu blocks, and reservoir, will be a pleasure.


Yeah, flex tubing works for me too. And it was great hooking it up to my Watercool rad, res, pump, and GPU block. I used an EK monoblock though. See the build log link in my sig for pics (not a show PC so it's not awesome like the pros do it).


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> I can feel my IQ growing just watching those leds going on and off. Oh, and the fittings! He was "*raving* about them in Instagram" man! (his words by the way)! In _Instagram_! Is that not hip or what! Wow, coolzorz! Ah man..





Aenra said:


> Now in as far as mentality, approach and certain trends as existing today, by all means allow me to have my differing, distinct and unpleasant as they may be personal opinions. Just me


I sure allow your differing opinions (It is, after all, not in my position to allow or deny ANY opinion). But I would ask you to state them in a polite way. No one needs to be sarcastically harassed for what they share in this thread. We are all here for our mutual passion and hobby, so please cut the sarcasm and stay positive - even if you disagree with something. Thank you. 



MNMadman said:


> Yeah, flex tubing works for me too. And it was great hooking it up to my Watercool rad, res, pump, and GPU block. I used an EK monoblock though. See the build log link in my sig for pics (not a show PC so it's not awesome like the pros do it).


I use flextubing in my private rig, too. I want to try hardline when I'm doing the next big revamp, but that'll might take another year or so... Out of curiosity: have you tried equipping the stock heatsink with sufficient thermal pads for the last two coils and running the Heatkiller block? I'd be curious to see how it performs against the EK block and how bad the vrms go. I'm still trying to push the boss to make a VRM block for the ASRock boards, after all


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> stay positive - even if you disagree with something


I am positive. It never ceases to amaze me, how an opposing view must a priori entail pessimism or a negative approach. 
It's a forum and it's a free world; i constantly, on a daily basis (and _as i should_), get to read opinions or points of view that i disagree with; comes with the concept of a forum. You neither have nor will, ever, see me asking someone to go "positive" (because i happen to disagree), or because their opinion annoys me. That's how it works with forums, you get all kinds. Somehow however, you will occasionally find others expecting that of me. One wonders why.
Now technically speaking, am not sure if this is "your thread", this being not your forum, but for all intents and purposes it might be, in which case feel free to "allow" or "disallow" what you please. I reserve my own right to be myself, consequences inluded.

I mentioned this privately to you before, but since you've no issue with a public discourse, let me repeat this please if only for clarity's sake:
- I am positive.
- I've nothing but great things to say about your company's products; it being a fact easily ascertainable by a simple perusing of my posts here.
- I've nothing against anyone. Disagreeing, no matter how strongly, is simply part of life. 
- I respect and applaud your stance as a hardware rep, you do a wonderful job. Your job however does not entail your criticising my impressions on trends or mentality. Concepts i might add that are UN-related to your function here. You're here about your products. In case it escaped you, trends criticism or lack thereof, we all appreciate them and no criticism involved them, directly or indirectly.
- Prior to judging, take the whole picture in; my very next post indicates i've no problem with any specific individual or the work that they do, but is rather a general thing.
- You've also criticized my requesting, requesting, for spoilers. I don't know how things work in the Watercool forums but this looks like the overclock.net forums to me. We do use spoilers here. Which again, i requested for, not demanded. That too you found negative.

No offense Jacob, but if there's a line being crossed here, it sure is a slim one, and a mutually crossed one at that.
As i've no intention to make your life harder however, consider this the last of its kind. You have my word i will be the absolute perfect poster from here on. Do keep the above in mind however; perception can be paramount. You lack it.


----------



## andrewmp6

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I'm still trying to push the boss to make a VRM block for the ASRock boards, after all


Keep trying for all of us,The asrock x399 taichi is a popular motherboard and one of the lowered priced ones so most go for it.


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Out of curiosity: have you tried equipping the stock heatsink with sufficient thermal pads for the last two coils and running the Heatkiller block? I'd be curious to see how it performs against the EK block and how bad the vrms go. I'm still trying to push the boss to make a VRM block for the ASRock boards, after all


I don't know that I'm curious enough about the temps to drain the loop and take it apart at this point. Maybe after a couple of months or something.

I'm going to keep the Heatkiller IV TR4 Pro block. If y'all make a Taichi VRM block I will buy it the day it becomes available for preorder, as I really would like to have a matching set of blocks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Announcement:










I'LLBE GOING TO PAX EAST! In just one month, we could meet each other!!! So who's coming? Who wants to see all our products, grab some discount codes, see some show cases, and just have a good time with me and our friends of ModMyMods? ​​


----------



## ruffhi

I have a PAX East Sunday ticket that should be with USPS on its way to me ... but for reasons unknown, has decided that the way from Connecticut to Massachusetts (North of CT) is to go via New Jersey (South of CT).


----------



## nycgtr

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Announcement:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'LLBE GOING TO PAX EAST! In just one month, we could meet each other!!! So who's coming? Who wants to see all our products, grab some discount codes, see some show cases, and just have a good time with me and our friends of ModMyMods? ​​


Pass them some product while your there please.


----------



## DerComissar

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Announcement:
> 
> 
> 
> I'LLBE GOING TO PAX EAST! In just one month, we could meet each other!!! So who's coming? Who wants to see all our products, grab some discount codes, see some show cases, and just have a good time with me and our friends of ModMyMods? ​​


Sure wish I could be there.

Be sure to send updates and photos, and above all, have a good time!


----------



## TheArkratos

Awwww man! That's the only USA based PAX that I don't go to...


----------



## Juris

Just wondering has anyone bought from the 'rebate' B-ware section on Watercool's store. I had an order in with Aquatuning for a new Tube D5 200 and other parts but they've made a balls of the total order so looking to get it elsewhere and trying to limit my costs as shipping is a bit more from Watercool to Ireland. If you have bought parts, particularly the Tube how B-ware was B-ware for you?

Is it possible to get 2 led struts or do you have to buy a 2nd set of struts. If I have to buy a 2nd sets of struts is it possible to strip the black paint from one to expose the raw aluminium underneath. Loving the raw aluminium look. 

Also wondering if you guys know if the Watercool led strip cables can be desoldered from the strip. I have to pass the cable heads through M4 holes to make the cable management seamless so will need to remove the 4 pin connectors temporarily (and likely sleeving) to get them to fit. Cheers for any help.


----------



## muzammil84

Project LUNA is finished. It contains a lot too good looking Watercool stuff not to share it here.
Full build log with hundreds of pictures:
http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


----------



## fx3861

omg... its so sinful to make it so sexy....


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ruffhi said:


> I have a PAX East Sunday ticket that should be with USPS on its way to me ... but for reasons unknown, has decided that the way from Connecticut to Massachusetts (North of CT) is to go via New Jersey (South of CT).


Awesome! Looking forward to meet you there!



nycgtr said:


> Pass them some product while your there please.


Will do! In unrelated news: PPCs just got a huge shipment from us, so they have many things back in stock. More to come soon.



DerComissar said:


> Sure wish I could be there.
> 
> Be sure to send updates and photos, and above all, have a good time!


I can't promis that I'll transfer all updates to this forum. But follow us on facebook / twitter / instagram (links in sig), I'll post there as often as possible.



TheArkratos said:


> Awwww man! That's the only USA based PAX that I don't go to...


That's a shame! Would have loved to meet each and everyone of you! This is the first expo we're doing - ever. So, this will be a steep learning curve for me, too... But if this goes well, we'll try to do more expos next year! So, maybe we'll meet you then?



Juris said:


> Just wondering has anyone bought from the 'rebate' B-ware section on Watercool's store. I had an order in with Aquatuning for a new Tube D5 200 and other parts but they've made a balls of the total order so looking to get it elsewhere and trying to limit my costs as shipping is a bit more from Watercool to Ireland. If you have bought parts, particularly the Tube how B-ware was B-ware for you?
> 
> Is it possible to get 2 led struts or do you have to buy a 2nd set of struts. If I have to buy a 2nd sets of struts is it possible to strip the black paint from one to expose the raw aluminium underneath. Loving the raw aluminium look.
> 
> Also wondering if you guys know if the Watercool led strip cables can be desoldered from the strip. I have to pass the cable heads through M4 holes to make the cable management seamless so will need to remove the 4 pin connectors temporarily (and likely sleeving) to get them to fit. Cheers for any help.


Re: B-grade stock: those are mostly parts where something in the plating process didn't work out well. Most of the times, there are small discolorations, specks, or uneven coloration. 
Re LED struts: if you order a normal tube, you can simply put a comment during checkout, aksing for a second LED strut and we will assemble it that way. Also, when you scroll down on a normal tube page, you can select raw aluminum struts as an otpion. You don't have to buy them separately. We cannot offer either of these services for B-grade stock, though.
Re LED strip: yes, these can be desoldered. But you can also order them and leave a comment during checkout that you want the strip and the cable separately, unsoldered, and we'll send it to you that way. Then you'll have clean soldering points to work with. 

If you want to place any of those special orders, please also send me an email to [email protected] with your order number, so I can make sure that everything is understood during assembly 



muzammil84 said:


> Project LUNA is finished. It contains a lot too good looking Watercool stuff not to share it here.
> Full build log with hundreds of pictures:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Amazing build! Thanks for sharing those pics with us!


----------



## springs113

What pumps are you guys using with your Heatkiller Reservoirs?


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool WCP D5 Vario with Heatkiller top (separate from res).


----------



## springs113

MNMadman said:


> Watercool WCP D5 Vario with Heatkiller top (separate from res).


Is this attachable to the res as well?


----------



## SoMBrA

I'm using d5 pump attached to the watercool tube + fan mount  

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

muzammil84 said:


> Project LUNA is finished. It contains a lot too good looking Watercool stuff not to share it here.
> Full build log with hundreds of pictures:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/18082-builds-case-mods/1653017-project-luna-likwid-mods.html


I still haven't figured out how to do spoilers or any of the old normal stuff that was just a button click on the old forums, so I had to delete all the photos. 
Is there a guide somewhere for all that stuff?


But that your completed build is awesome looking!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

springs113 said:


> What pumps are you guys using with your Heatkiller Reservoirs?





springs113 said:


> Is this attachable to the res as well?


You cannot attach the standalone D5 pumptop to the standalone reservoir (while you can, of course, connect them via G1/4 ports and tubing of your choice). You can, however, buy a version of the reservoir that comes preassembled with a mount for a D5 or a DDC pump. And you can also buy either the D5 or the DDC bottompiece if you already own the standalone res. 



Madmaxneo said:


> I still haven't figured out how to do spoilers or any of the old normal stuff that was just a button click on the old forums, so I had to delete all the photos.
> Is there a guide somewhere for all that stuff?


you can either write out the tags: 


Code:


[*spoiler]Spoilered content[/spoiler]

(Of course, you have to remove the * from the BB-Code)
Or use the "S" button in the editor (see attachment). On the other hand, I haven't figured out how to upload a pic in the forum and then integrate it into the post without having it appear a second time in the attachments area, so... I guess we'll all have to do some learning with the new forum software


----------



## woppy101

I know there is a watercool rep on here if he could reply that would be great, how long does it normally take to dispatch the threadripper block I have ordered? I placed my order last Wednesday7th and it was closed on Thursday 8th but I have received no more correspondence and no dispatch email or tracking number. I am rather disappointed with the service provided as it says on the site “The delivery will be done by FedEx in 4-5 working days” here is my order number if it helps Order 8402.


----------



## SoMBrA

woppy101 said:


> I know there is a watercool rep on here if he could reply that would be great, how long does it normally take to dispatch the threadripper block I have ordered? I placed my order last Wednesday7th and it was closed on Thursday 8th but I have received no more correspondence and no dispatch email or tracking number. I am rather disappointed with the service provided as it says on the site “The delivery will be done by FedEx in 4-5 working days” here is my order number if it helps Order 8402.


 @Watercool-Jakob is the one that will help you.
I have the Threadripper Block myself, worth waiting


----------



## MNMadman

woppy101 said:


> I know there is a watercool rep on here if he could reply that would be great, how long does it normally take to dispatch the threadripper block I have ordered? I placed my order last Wednesday7th and it was closed on Thursday 8th but I have received no more correspondence and no dispatch email or tracking number. I am rather disappointed with the service provided as it says on the site “The delivery will be done by FedEx in 4-5 working days” here is my order number if it helps Order 8402.


The processing time for orders is entirely dependent on how busy they are. When I placed my order, they had received an unusual number of orders all at once plus two of their people were out sick at the same time. Mine took 15 days to ship.

The FedEx shipping does take 4-5 working days, _once the product ships_.


----------



## woppy101

MNMadman said:


> The processing time for orders is entirely dependent on how busy they are. When I placed my order, they had received an unusual number of orders all at once plus two of their people were out sick at the same time. Mine took 15 days to ship.
> 
> The FedEx shipping does take 4-5 working days, _once the product ships_.


I won’t be happy if mine takes that long to ship with no corespondance, quite shoddy service if you ask me


----------



## fx3861

woppy101 said:


> I won’t be happy if mine takes that long to ship with no corespondance, quite shoddy service if you ask me


Its all depends on how many backlogs order, newly released products & products that doesnt match up to standard. Believe me it will worth the wait on,if you have the patience for it. Plus the way the pacaking arrive, you duly wont be disappointed. Nothing will ever moves inside there..????


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Announcement:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'LLBE GOING TO PAX EAST! In just one month, we could meet each other!!! So who's coming? Who wants to see all our products, grab some discount codes, see some show cases, and just have a good time with me and our friends of ModMyMods? ​​


What day will you be there?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

woppy101 said:


> I know there is a watercool rep on here if he could reply that would be great, how long does it normally take to dispatch the threadripper block I have ordered? I placed my order last Wednesday7th and it was closed on Thursday 8th but I have received no more correspondence and no dispatch email or tracking number. I am rather disappointed with the service provided as it says on the site “The delivery will be done by FedEx in 4-5 working days” here is my order number if it helps Order 8402.





woppy101 said:


> I won’t be happy if mine takes that long to ship with no corespondance, quite shoddy service if you ask me


Shoddy service? I replied to your PN within 28 minutes  I'd say that ain't such a bad response time 

In all seriousness: we ran out of nickel-plated coldplates for the Threadripper blocks. This happens with every product, all the times: we continuously produce those in certain batch-sizes (say, for ease of calculation, 100 cold plates). Then we estimate a percentage of how many will be needed in pure copper, and how many will be needed nickel plated. Then we ship (for example) 60 coldplates to the plating company, and keep 40 in copper. But sometimes, our guesstimation is slightly off, and more people order the nickel plated version, so we run out of nickel plated ones, while we still have copper ones. And then the waiting game starts: we simply have to wait till the batch returns from the plating company, so we can assemble the final block with all the different top versions. As I said, that happens with GPU blocks, CPU blocks, even radiators (how many front grills do you send to powder coating, how many do you leave bare metal?). We have 17 years of experience in this business and can predict these things and balance them out pretty well, but sometimes, apeak in orders for a certain item ruins the whole schedule, and some customers have to take unusual long waiting times.
We are a small business, and do not and cannot produce huge shelf stock. We know that for the one customer that gets hit with the waiting time, that can be frustrating, and are continuously trying to improve our structures. But given the size of our company, we cannot fully prevent that from ever happening. 



fx3861 said:


> Its all depends on how many backlogs order, newly released products & products that doesnt match up to standard. Believe me it will worth the wait on,y if you have the patience for it. Plus the way the pacaking arrive, you duly wont be disappointed. Nothing will ever moves inside there..????


Thanks for the love 



paskowitz said:


> What day will you be there?


I'll be a tourist in Boston from March 31st till April 3rd. From then on, it'll be a full week of PAX East Madness! Drop by whenever you can, I'll be there and looking forward to each and everyone of you!


----------



## WiSH2oo0

So where do I buy a HEATKILLER IV PRO here in the states?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> you can either write out the tags:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [*spoiler]Spoilered content[/spoiler]
> 
> (Of course, you have to remove the * from the BB-Code)
> Or use the "S" button in the editor (see attachment). On the other hand, I haven't figured out how to upload a pic in the forum and then integrate it into the post without having it appear a second time in the attachments area, so... I guess we'll all have to do some learning with the new forum software


I'm missing something as I see no editor or anything like the buttons in the image you provided. If I can remember that tag I will have to use those next time.


----------



## springs113

So I am looking to purchase the nickel-black heatkiller iv pro...whats the wait time to get that to me in the states?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> you can either write out the tags:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [*spoiler]Spoilered content[/spoiler]
> 
> (Of course, you have to remove the * from the BB-Code)
> Or use the "S" button in the editor (see attachment). On the other hand, I haven't figured out how to upload a pic in the forum and then integrate it into the post without having it appear a second time in the attachments area, so... I guess we'll all have to do some learning with the new forum software


I'm missing something as I don't see an editor or any buttons like in the image you posted. If I can remember the code you posted I will have to use that.


Spoiler



This is a test


----------



## Madmaxneo

None of my replies are showing up....


----------



## woppy101

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Shoddy service? I replied to your PN within 28 minutes  I'd say that ain't such a bad response time
> 
> In all seriousness: we ran out of nickel-plated coldplates for the Threadripper blocks. This happens with every product, all the times: we continuously produce those in certain batch-sizes (say, for ease of calculation, 100 cold plates). Then we estimate a percentage of how many will be needed in pure copper, and how many will be needed nickel plated. Then we ship (for example) 60 coldplates to the plating company, and keep 40 in copper. But sometimes, our guesstimation is slightly off, and more people order the nickel plated version, so we run out of nickel plated ones, while we still have copper ones. And then the waiting game starts: we simply have to wait till the batch returns from the plating company, so we can assemble the final block with all the different top versions. As I said, that happens with GPU blocks, CPU blocks, even radiators (how many front grills do you send to powder coating, how many do you leave bare metal?). We have 17 years of experience in this business and can predict these things and balance them out pretty well, but sometimes, apeak in orders for a certain item ruins the whole schedule, and some customers have to take unusual long waiting times.
> We are a small business, and do not and cannot produce huge shelf stock. We know that for the one customer that gets hit with the waiting time, that can be frustrating, and are continuously trying to improve our structures. But given the size of our company, we cannot fully prevent that from ever happening.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the love
> 
> 
> I'll be a tourist in Boston from March 31st till April 3rd. From then on, it'll be a full week of PAX East Madness! Drop by whenever you can, I'll be there and looking forward to each and everyone of you!


What I mean by shoddy service is I have had no corespondence since I have placed the order nothing to tell me you awaiting stock! Most company’s would send an email saying the item is temporarily unavailable but should be dispatched by x or y date


----------



## woppy101

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Shoddy service? I replied to your PN within 28 minutes  I'd say that ain't such a bad response time
> 
> In all seriousness: we ran out of nickel-plated coldplates for the Threadripper blocks. This happens with every product, all the times: we continuously produce those in certain batch-sizes (say, for ease of calculation, 100 cold plates). Then we estimate a percentage of how many will be needed in pure copper, and how many will be needed nickel plated. Then we ship (for example) 60 coldplates to the plating company, and keep 40 in copper. But sometimes, our guesstimation is slightly off, and more people order the nickel plated version, so we run out of nickel plated ones, while we still have copper ones. And then the waiting game starts: we simply have to wait till the batch returns from the plating company, so we can assemble the final block with all the different top versions. As I said, that happens with GPU blocks, CPU blocks, even radiators (how many front grills do you send to powder coating, how many do you leave bare metal?). We have 17 years of experience in this business and can predict these things and balance them out pretty well, but sometimes, apeak in orders for a certain item ruins the whole schedule, and some customers have to take unusual long waiting times.
> We are a small business, and do not and cannot produce huge shelf stock. We know that for the one customer that gets hit with the waiting time, that can be frustrating, and are continuously trying to improve our structures. But given the size of our company, we cannot fully prevent that from ever happening.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the love
> 
> 
> I'll be a tourist in Boston from March 31st till April 3rd. From then on, it'll be a full week of PAX East Madness! Drop by whenever you can, I'll be there and looking forward to each and everyone of you!


That was in now way directed at yourself it’s great having someone to speak to on the forums, What I mean by shoddy service is I have had no corespondence since I have placed the order nothing to tell me you awaiting stock,! Considering the website is saying the block is on stock, Most company’s would send an email saying the item is temporarily unavailable but should be dispatched by x or y date


----------



## DerComissar

WiSH2oo0 said:


> So where do I buy a HEATKILLER IV PRO here in the states?


Performance PCS;
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?block_cpu_type=582&q=heatkiller+iv+pro

ModMyMods:
https://modmymods.com/cpu-blocks/intel-cpu-blocks.html?manufacturer=8

Edit:
As the US stores tend to go oos at times, buying directly from Watercool is also an option. 
Their service is terrific, and they use Fedex, unless you want it via post for a smaller order.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

WiSH2oo0 said:


> So where do I buy a HEATKILLER IV PRO here in the states?


Performance PCs carries a lot of our stuff. They just got a huge order and placed the next one, so they should have many items stocked.
ModMyMods also has a lot of our products. They are constantly expanding their product range, so contact them directly asking for us and they'll most likely stock it.
Aquatuning also carries our stuff. But seeing how they operate out of Germany, too, you could just order directly from us.
Our own shop carries EVERYTHING from us, obviously  We ship to the US for 29.95€ with FedEx (standard shipping time: 2-4 business days). Free shipping for orders over 400€. Small parts (less than 3cm in height, less than 500g of weight, less than 30€ of value) can also be shipped in a padded envelope for 7,95€ by USPS ( no tracking, no insurance, standard delivery time 4-10 business days, sometimes takes up to 40 days).



Madmaxneo said:


> I'm missing something as I see no editor or anything like the buttons in the image you provided. If I can remember that tag I will have to use those next time.


Go to http://www.overclock.net/forum/profile.php?do=editoptions 
Scroll down to "Miscellaneous Options"
On the "Message Editor Interface", select "Enhanced Interface - WYSIWYG"

Or use one of the other settings, depending on your preferences.



springs113 said:


> So I am looking to purchase the nickel-black heatkiller iv pro...whats the wait time to get that to me in the states?


Are you referring to the Copper AN version? That top is currently not available in our shop. Some of our resellers (list see above) still have some units stocked, but we currently can't produce new units. The plating process that delivered that exact color was banned by the EU, because the Chrome6 that was used in it was defined a danger to the health of the workers. We are currently trying to source another good process that delivers results that we are happy with. I'll let you know when we made a final decision. 



Madmaxneo said:


> None of my replies are showing up...


They did. They just were on a new page, and the forum seems to have a hard time showing new pages in threads... Please read and report to the Bug Report forum to help the OCN staff to track and solve all these issues. Please also be aware that I am in no way affiliated with OCN, I am just a basic user as everyone else, with a fancy title under my username!



woppy101 said:


> That was in now way directed at yourself it’s great having someone to speak to on the forums, What I mean by shoddy service is I have had no corespondence since I have placed the order nothing to tell me you awaiting stock,! Considering the website is saying the block is on stock, Most company’s would send an email saying the item is temporarily unavailable but should be dispatched by x or y date


As I tried to explain, we are a small company and do not have every item digitally tracked. So we cannot pull that data automatically as of yet. We are working on improving this situation!


----------



## Paprika

Gotta spend some of that green you've made from the recent influx of orders to improve your systems!


----------



## springs113

Sorry for the confusion, I meant the threadripper block, the version you sent to Kyle fr Hardocp.


----------



## nycgtr

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Performance PCs carries a lot of our stuff. They just got a huge order and placed the next one, so they should have many items stocked.
> ModMyMods also has a lot of our products. They are constantly expanding their product range, so contact them directly asking for us and they'll most likely stock it.
> Aquatuning also carries our stuff. But seeing how they operate out of Germany, too, you could just order directly from us.
> Our own shop carries EVERYTHING from us, obviously  We ship to the US for 29.95€ with FedEx (standard shipping time: 2-4 business days). Free shipping for orders over 400€. Small parts (less than 3cm in height, less than 500g of weight, less than 30€ of value) can also be shipped in a padded envelope for 7,95€ by USPS ( no tracking, no insurance, standard delivery time 4-10 business days, sometimes takes up to 40 days).
> 
> 
> Go to http://www.overclock.net/forum/profile.php?do=editoptions
> Scroll down to "Miscellaneous Options"
> On the "Message Editor Interface", select "Enhanced Interface - WYSIWYG"
> 
> Or use one of the other settings, depending on your preferences.
> 
> 
> Are you referring to the Copper AN version? That top is currently not available in our shop. Some of our resellers (list see above) still have some units stocked, but we currently can't produce new units. The plating process that delivered that exact color was banned by the EU, because the Chrome6 that was used in it was defined a danger to the health of the workers. We are currently trying to source another good process that delivers results that we are happy with. I'll let you know when we made a final decision.
> 
> 
> They did. They just were on a new page, and the forum seems to have a hard time showing new pages in threads... Please read and report to the Bug Report forum to help the OCN staff to track and solve all these issues. Please also be aware that I am in no way affiliated with OCN, I am just a basic user as everyone else, with a fancy title under my username!
> 
> 
> As I tried to explain, we are a small company and do not have every item digitally tracked. So we cannot pull that data automatically as of yet. We are working on improving this situation!



I hope your bringing some TR vrms coolers and blocks to pax for these us resellers. lol


----------



## chibi

Hi Jakob,

Just curious, are there any plans for a Titan V waterblock?


----------



## woppy101

well almost three weeks now and still no indication from Watercool when my block will be dispatched never mind arrive, I have sent 3 web notes and haven’t had a reply to any of them! very, very shoddy service from Watercool and I almost certainly won’t be placing another order, the worst thing about it is the block is still showing as instock and available on the website and I was told by Jakob on here that the new cold plates should arrive on Wednesday gone. It wouldn’t have been so bad if I had a reply to my messages from explaining the delay from Watercool but I haven’t heard a peep out of them since I placed my order, very shoddy customer service.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Go to http://www.overclock.net/forum/profile.php?do=editoptions
> Scroll down to "Miscellaneous Options"
> On the "Message Editor Interface", select "Enhanced Interface - WYSIWYG"
> 
> Or use one of the other settings, depending on your preferences.
> 
> 
> 
> They did. They just were on a new page, and the forum seems to have a hard time showing new pages in threads... Please read and report to the Bug Report forum to help the OCN staff to track and solve all these issues. Please also be aware that I am in no way affiliated with OCN, I am just a basic user as everyone else, with a fancy title under my username!


Was there some kind of instructions for all this when the forums switched over to this new format? If there was I missed it. 

From what I am seeing it seems that it takes a lengthy amount of time for certain posts to show up. I've noticed many people double or triple posting probably because they do not see their posts at all, so they repeat post and they all show up at once....


----------



## Juris

Watercool-Jakob;2693454
Re: B-grade stock: those are mostly parts where something in the plating process didn't work out well. Most of the times said:


> [email protected][/email] with your order number, so I can make sure that everything is understood during assembly


Thanks Jakob. I think I'll go with a new Tube 200 D5 with the raw aluminium struts. Can't seem to sign up on the Watercool website however. Are there issues at the moment. Thanks.


To anyone with the Watercool Tube res I'm looking to make the Tube 200 D5 a central feature in my Raijintek Paean build. Its a difficult case to light as being a bench case there are no walls or roof to mount led strips and the tempered glass is heavily tinted so each component needs to be illuminated individually. I'll also be using Mayhems Pastel white which of course blocks light. Has anyone used an opaque fluid with led strips in the 2 rear struts and if so would you have some pics. If possible I'd prefer to keep the 2 front struts solid (no led cutouts) to avoid wires showing in the build. Thanks for any info.


----------



## Granpa

You can use my build as a reference for reservoir lighting with pastel white. Reservoir is lighted via 2 of the struts, do note that I am using darkside UV led strips instead of watercool ones.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

woppy101 said:


> well almost three weeks now and still no indication from Watercool when my block will be dispatched never mind arrive, I have sent 3 web notes and haven’t had a reply to any of them! very, very shoddy service from Watercool and I almost certainly won’t be placing another order, the worst thing about it is the block is still showing as instock and available on the website and I was told by Jakob on here that the new cold plates should arrive on Wednesday gone. It wouldn’t have been so bad if I had a reply to my messages from explaining the delay from Watercool but I haven’t heard a peep out of them since I placed my order, very shoddy customer service.


I take full blame if something went wrong. But your order is now 12 days old, which isn't even two weeks, let alone three. You contacted me once via DM here, and received an answer. And then contacted us yesterday, a Sunday, at nighttime, twice within 3 minutes. I take the privilege of working on business days and during the daytime, only, so I just replied to both of them. I explained to you, both in PM and publicly in this thread, that we ran out of a part and were awaiting it back from our subcontractor. Other than waiting and nagging them, we could do literally nothing to speed this up - as I explained to you. 
We received the parts today and assembled your block. It will be picked up by FedEx tomorrow morning. You will receive an automated email with tracking info.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I looked back and seems the heat killer 4 pro is not preforming much better than the ek supremacy or did i see that wrong :/


----------



## MNMadman

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I looked back and seems the heat killer 4 pro is not preforming much better than the ek supremacy or did i see that wrong :/


What did you look at?

HardOCP's review says the Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro block is tied with the XSPC Raystorm Neo for best temps. EK is way behind but would improve if they ever release a revised cooling engine like they did for their monoblocks.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Performance charts on this thread showed they are pretty close.

Yeah ek's are so busy looking with the plastic insert it's just getting too complex I was thinking a more straight forward design would do better 
Plexi blocks it's easy to see the complexities in design.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Granpa said:


> You can use my build as a reference for reservoir lighting with pastel white. Reservoir is lighted via 2 of the struts, do note that I am using darkside UV led strips instead of watercool ones.


What size tubing is that? I really want the Heatkiller reservoir, but I'm having so much trouble justifying leaving my EK TOP for a lesser performing top especially since I'm planning a move to more restrictive rads.


----------



## MNMadman

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Performance charts on this thread showed they are pretty close.


Check the charts in this post. Not close at all, and agrees with HardOCP's review -- though the Heatkiller block beats the Raystorm Neo in this one.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I looked back and seems the heat killer 4 pro is not preforming much better than the ek supremacy or did i see that wrong :/





MNMadman said:


> HardOCP's review says the Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro block is tied with the XSPC Raystorm Neo for best temps. EK is way behind but would improve if they ever release a revised cooling engine like they did for their monoblocks.


I SUPPOSE that you two are missing each other completely: MNMadman is talking about the HEATKILLER IV PRO for Threadripper, which indeed outperforms EK's block by a huge margin. But I GUESS that ThrashZone is referring to the HEATKILLER IV PRO for intel's and AMD's standard sockets. That block is indeed within 1-2°C range to the EK Evo, AC kryos next, and similar state of the art blocks. It pretty much depends on the specific test, reviewer, and hardware used which of those blocks lands shortly before the other.


----------



## Granpa

SlvrDragon50 said:


> What size tubing is that? I really want the Heatkiller reservoir, but I'm having so much trouble justifying leaving my EK TOP for a lesser performing top especially since I'm planning a move to more restrictive rads.


16mm


----------



## axtran

Is it wrong that I ended up buying a Threadripper CPU because of how good the waterblock looks?


----------



## SavantStrike

axtran said:


> Is it wrong that I ended up buying a Threadripper CPU because of how good the waterblock looks?


It's never wrong to buy a threadripper.


----------



## khemist

1080ti block arrived, picked up a replacement top also.


----------



## DerComissar

khemist said:


> 1080ti block arrived, picked up a replacement top also.


Lovely!:thumb:


----------



## fx3861

Need some help, i'm missing 1 short o-ring on the cpu waterblock. Is it possible to use it while waiting for the spare parts?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

khemist said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080ti block arrived, picked up a replacement top also.


That looks nice! Keep us updated how it will look installed!



fx3861 said:


> Need some help, i'm missing 1 short o-ring on the cpu waterblock. Is it possible to use it while waiting for the spare parts?


We offer a replacement kit for the seals. If I'm getting you right, you lost one of the straight ones? Yeah, you should be able to operate your block, but temps might be worse than before. We recommend replacing that gasket.


----------



## fx3861

Thanks Jacob, will definately do. Was wondering why my temp went up to 50-59 deg. Was used to be on low 40s.???


----------



## lemniscate

Hi Jakob, do you have any comparison pictures of the heatkiller 4 acryl clean and the hwluxx version?


----------



## khemist

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That looks nice! Keep us updated how it will look installed!








Keeping the acetal cpu block top on for now.


----------



## Barefooter

Here's my new Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO Acrylic HWLuxx Edition CPU block and the VRM block for the Asus Rampage VI Extreme.



















There's more pictures on this post of my build log if you want to see more.


----------



## lemniscate

Barefooter said:


> Here's my new Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO Acrylic HWLuxx Edition CPU block and the VRM block for the Asus Rampage VI Extreme.
> 
> There's more pictures on this post of my build log if you want to see more.


Thanks for sharing. I couldn't seem to find many pictures on the acrylic clean version (non hwluxx). I want to see how the "bump" would look like with liquid inside, compared to the hwluxx version's flat surface.

Also, nice build. I've been following it since a few months ago.


----------



## khemist




----------



## PuffinMyLye

For those using the Heatkiller IV TR4 block, what's the best method for applying TIM?


----------



## TheArkratos

PuffinMyLye said:


> For those using the Heatkiller IV TR4 block, what's the best method for applying TIM?


This is what I would recommend:


----------



## MNMadman

I used the HardOCP method for my Gelid GC-EXTREME TIM.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

TheArkratos said:


> This is what I would recommend:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcD3DbhNjp8





MNMadman said:


> I used the HardOCP method for my Gelid GC-EXTREME TIM.



Thanks. Just realized I only have AS5 TIM. Worth picking up something else?


----------



## Jyve

This is probably a dumb question but what exactly is the hwluxx version of the heatkiller block? I did a quick search and can't seem to find what makes it different than the standard heatkiller 4. Thx.


----------



## MNMadman

PuffinMyLye said:


> Thanks. Just realized I only have AS5 TIM. Worth picking up something else?


Never used Arctic Silver, so I have no idea. I use Gelid GC-EXTREME because it always seems to be at or near the top of review performance charts, it's very easy to spread at room temperature (comes with a small spatula), is non-conductive, and requires no curing time.


----------



## SavantStrike

PuffinMyLye said:


> Thanks. Just realized I only have AS5 TIM. Worth picking up something else?


I used to really like how AS5 spread, then I found noctua nt-h1 and it's cheaper, spreads better, and beats it by 1-3C. 

If you've only got AS5 and you can't wait then I'd say use it, but otherwise you might as well get some new TIM.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

SavantStrike said:


> I used to really like how AS5 spread, then I found noctua nt-h1 and it's cheaper, spreads better, and beats it by 1-3C.
> 
> If you've only got AS5 and you can't wait then I'd say use it, but otherwise you might as well get some new TIM.



Grrrrrr...Such an oversight on my part. Been ordering so many parts from PPCs over the past few weeks I could have easily picked up new TIM. Now it's either going to hold me up or I'm going to have to live with knowing I could be getting better performance .


----------



## PuffinMyLye

SavantStrike said:


> I used to really like how AS5 spread, then I found noctua nt-h1 and it's cheaper, spreads better, and beats it by 1-3C.
> 
> If you've only got AS5 and you can't wait then I'd say use it, but otherwise you might as well get some new TIM.



Lucked out and found some NT-H1 at a local store on my way home from work today :thumb:.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Jyve said:


> This is probably a dumb question but what exactly is the hwluxx version of the heatkiller block? I did a quick search and can't seem to find what makes it different than the standard heatkiller 4. Thx.


Curious as well. I assumed it was just the cosmetic redesign of the block, looks cleaner IMO.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

My apologies for the response delay in this thread. As you can imagine, I've been super busy with last minute preparations for PAX next week. Also, I'd like to point out that I won't be checking the forums very often in the next week. If someone has an urgent need, please contact me via email: [email protected] . I'll try to check and answer emails daily. 



khemist said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keeping the acetal cpu block top on for now.


Thanks for the pics, love your current build!



Barefooter said:


> Here's my new Watercool Heatkiller IV PRO Acrylic HWLuxx Edition CPU block and the VRM block for the Asus Rampage VI Extreme.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's more pictures on this post of my build log if you want to see more.


Thanks for sharing! Nice pics with that cloth under the pieces. Subbed your build log, looking forward to seeing your progress!



lemniscate said:


> Hi Jakob, do you have any comparison pictures of the heatkiller 4 acryl clean and the hwluxx version?


Unfortunately not. Maybe we'll give both to the photographer next time. Thanks for the inspiration.



Jyve said:


> This is probably a dumb question but what exactly is the hwluxx version of the heatkiller block? I did a quick search and can't seem to find what makes it different than the standard heatkiller 4. Thx.





SlvrDragon50 said:


> Curious as well. I assumed it was just the cosmetic redesign of the block, looks cleaner IMO.


That is correct. Let me walk you through product design: we usually initially design only one version of a product. Let's refer to that as "master layout". For the HKIV, the master was the copper version:









For the HKIV, we wanted to keep the step in the middle around the ports. It's a direct quote from the general design of the Heatkiller 3.0, and we wanted to keep the heritage of the HKIV visible:











Now, after we had the master layout for the HKIV, all other versions are quotes of that master layout: we played around with different materials (POM, Acrylic) and plating processes (Nickel, black chrome). So that's where the "normal" Acrylic tops came from.
Now, WATERCOOL is deeply rooted in the german watercooling enthusiast scene, and one of the most important community forums is the HardwareLuxx forum. Our founder and CEO Rico is still part and active member of that forum. Sometimes, the guys over there have a special idea for a slight modification of a product, and we try to listen to them. So, when colored liquids and visible flow paths became increasingly popular in the watercooling community, some of the regulars in the HWLuxx forum approached us and asked for a special edition: they wanted a planar top, without the characteristic step, because it interfered with flow path visibility. Now, we are a customer-friendly company and take some pride in our ability to accommodate even to small-scale orders. So when 20 people guaranteed that they'd order that top, we fulfilled their wish and thought that would be the end of that story. 
Strangely enough, even though it was never advertised by us anywhere, we had a lot of follow up requests for that top, so we made it available as a replacement article in the shop. And that product ran really well, so we listened to the people again and finally started to offer it as a full-scale product. 
So, although it "breaks" our traditional design language, we fully understand why people like that top so much: our original design came from a metal top, and while it works great with metal and POM variations of that theme, it defies the purpose of an acrylic top: making the flow path visible. Thanks to the input from our devoted followers and fans, we came up with an alternative top that is better suited for fans of acrylic pieces in their loop.

So here you have it: the whole breakdown of the creation history of that special version


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Snip
> 
> Now, after we had the master layout for the HKIV, all other versions are quotes of that master layout: we played around with different materials (POM, Acrylic) and plating processes (Nickel, black chrome). So that's where the "normal" Acrylic tops came from.
> Now, WATERCOOL is deeply rooted in the german watercooling enthusiast scene, and one of the most important community forums is the HardwareLuxx forum. Our founder and CEO Rico is still part and active member of that forum. Sometimes, the guys over there have a special idea for a slight modification of a product, and we try to listen to them. So, when colored liquids and visible flow paths became increasingly popular in the watercooling community, some of the regulars in the HWLuxx forum approached us and asked for a special edition: they wanted a planar top, without the characteristic step, because it interfered with flow path visibility. Now, we are a customer-friendly company and take some pride in our ability to accommodate even to small-scale orders. So when 20 people guaranteed that they'd order that top, we fulfilled their wish and thought that would be the end of that story.
> Strangely enough, even though it was never advertised by us anywhere, we had a lot of follow up requests for that top, so we made it available as a replacement article in the shop. And that product ran really well, so we listened to the people again and finally started to offer it as a full-scale product.
> So, although it "breaks" our traditional design language, we fully understand why people like that top so much: our original design came from a metal top, and while it works great with metal and POM variations of that theme, it defies the purpose of an acrylic top: making the flow path visible. Thanks to the input from our devoted followers and fans, we came up with an alternative top that is better suited for fans of acrylic pieces in their loop.
> 
> So here you have it: the whole breakdown of the creation history of that special version



Great back story! I always wondered why you had two different versions... now I know why.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Wow, awesome! Thanks for the history. Another reason why I'm a diehard Heatkiller fan. I'm a huge fan of the classic Heatkiller look, but I'm really contemplating going with a dye and HWLuxx top.


----------



## Jyve

Happy I asked. Great story and thanks.


----------



## Wally West

That was a nice read!


----------



## TheDarkSide

Is there going to be an easter sale?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

As I said: we are a customer-friendly company, so if I can (and am allowed) to answer questions like this thoroughly, I will always try to do so  Ask and you shall be given...


...which brings us to: a glimps into the future! In this special case: the future of our GPU block design!



















Source: http://watercool.de/en/news So get your wallets out, April 19th is waiting for you  

Next topic: 
A great Youtuber asked us for a sponsoring for a pretty amazing project. Here is part1 of the build:






In unrelated news: Friday and Monday are Bank holidays in Germany, so there will be no order processing and shipping. From Tuesday on, we will continue with normal operations. I myself will not, though: I fly to Boston, MA, on Saturday, and will make final preparations for PAX East. I will have a Laptop with me and check both mails and forums from time to time, but please understand that it might take me a few days to see and answer questions - I will be pretty busy interacting with (hopefully) super many of you guys in RL  

Till then: Happy Easter, you guys!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

I wish when I got my 1070 Strix that the Heatkiller block was out ((( Next GPU!


----------



## tiefox

My heatkiller build is running!! Still going to change some tubes that Im not satisfied with, but loving it so far!


----------



## fx3861

the new gpu waterblock looks so much sexier. Hoping they be will be fitting aftermarket gpu as well


----------



## MNMadman

fx3861 said:


> the new gpu waterblock looks so much sexier.


I actually like the existing design better. Now if the coolant flowed through the extra see-through parts (which would be stupid as there is nothing over there to cool), that would be different.

I wouldn't mind having the extra protrusions in the flow path, as the extra turbulence likely improves cooling for the VRM.

To each their own...


----------



## TheDarkSide

I'm planning on using dual heatkiller tubes 200 (without the pumps) in an upcoming SMA8 build, but i couldn't find any pictures online showing how would that look. My worry is that the largest res heatkiller do would look small in the sma8.. anyone has experience with that or pics to share?


----------



## fx3861

MNMadman said:


> I actually like the existing design better. Now if the coolant flowed through the extra see-through parts (which would be stupid as there is nothing over there to cool), that would be different.
> 
> I wouldn't mind having the extra protrusions in the flow path, as the extra turbulence likely improves cooling for the VRM.
> 
> To each their own...


That I couldn't agree on more, having extra flow giving extra turbulence would give a better cooling effect.


----------



## pmc25

@Watercool-Jakob

Any update on when the new range of radiators is likely to launch? Think you said 3-4 months, 3-4 months ago.

Thanks.


----------



## pmc25

duplicate.


----------



## Stiltz85

I don't mean to crash in here uninvited as I do not own any heatkiller blocks but I do have a 200mm heatkiller tube D5 and I have a question about it as any info I find is vague _(and in German)_.
Can anyone verify if the heatkiller tube is aluminum or copper and/or nickel?

I am getting ready to put a build together and would really like to verify this before I ruin my loop on accident. Depending on the answer I might have one for sale lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Are those vertical gpu stands worth using ?


----------



## Aenra

Stiltz85 said:


> Can anyone verify if the heatkiller tube is aluminum or copper and/or nickel?



I'd wait for Jakob for verification, but where it matters, ie in areas where contact with the coolant occurs, no, there's no aluminum. Where there _is_ aluminum, is on the 4 external support struts and nowhere else; ie nothing to worry about. It's why they're external.
Hope that helps


----------



## MNMadman

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Are those vertical gpu stands worth using ?


They make the build look better.

You'd have to determine for yourself whether or not you like it and whether or not it's "worth it" to you.

I like the look, and will try to have my GPUs vertical in every build I do.


----------



## ThrashZone

MNMadman said:


> They make the build look better.
> 
> You'd have to determine for yourself whether or not you like it and whether or not it's "worth it" to you.
> 
> I like the look, and will try to have my GPUs vertical in every build I do.


Hi,
Yeah I believe on a water block it might insure the fluid fills the block better
Just have to live without any expansion slots available plus hacking the case pretty


----------



## Wally West

Stiltz85 said:


> I don't mean to crash in here uninvited as I do not own any heatkiller blocks but I do have a 200mm heatkiller tube D5 and I have a question about it as any info I find is vague _(and in German)_.
> *Can anyone verify if the heatkiller tube is aluminum or copper and/or nickel?
> 
> I am getting ready to put a build together and would really like to verify this before I ruin my loop on accident. Depending on the answer I might have one for sale lol.*


*

The struts are in Aluminium
I'm pretty sure the top and bottom part are in POM acetal. 
The tube is in borisilicate glass

So yeah, I would say you can use it in an aluminium or copper loop since the water will only touch the acetal and glass.*


----------



## fx3861

Wally West said:


> The struts are in Aluminium
> I'm pretty sure the top and bottom part are in POM acetal.
> The tube is in borisilicate glass
> 
> So yeah, I would say you can use it in an aluminium or copper loop since the water will only touch the acetal and glass.


Plus don't forget brass or brass coated with silver fittings. ??


----------



## Stiltz85

Thanks for the quick replies! I just wanted to make sure before install.


----------



## Jyve

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Are those vertical gpu stands worth using ?


If you are air cooling your gpu then I highly recommend not vertically mounting your gpu. It typically is up close against the side panel and really hurts the cooling efforts of the card. IMO they should only be used if water cooling your video card. Yeah they do look cool but if your card throttles down is it really worth it? Lost performance for looks.

Also as another poster mentioned you'll typically lose access to a lot of your other slots. I was able to squeeze a sound blaster z in mine however. I think it depends on the case.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Finally got home from first day of PAX. holy **** that's been nice! Keep it coming, people, I LOVE meeting you!!!
Now, to open questions:



SlvrDragon50 said:


> I wish when I got my 1070 Strix that the Heatkiller block was out ((( Next GPU!


Don't wait for it. there won't be any new custom PCB compatible blocks for Pascal generation cards. We will try to have more for Ampere gen cards. 



TheDarkSide said:


> I'm planning on using dual heatkiller tubes 200 (without the pumps) in an upcoming SMA8 build, but i couldn't find any pictures online showing how would that look. My worry is that the largest res heatkiller do would look small in the sma8.. anyone has experience with that or pics to share?


You could ask @Revan654 for a shot of the entire inside of his case. Or you work through his entire worklog for one. 
Alternatively, you wait for Brian/BPSCustoms next build log episode. Youtube Link in my last post. 




pmc25 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Any update on when the new range of radiators is likely to launch? Think you said 3-4 months, 3-4 months ago.
> 
> Thanks.


That's about right. We wanted to get them out in April. It now more looks like early June.



Stiltz85 said:


> I don't mean to crash in here uninvited as I do not own any heatkiller blocks but I do have a 200mm heatkiller tube D5 and I have a question about it as any info I find is vague _(and in German)_.
> Can anyone verify if the heatkiller tube is aluminum or copper and/or nickel?
> 
> I am getting ready to put a build together and would really like to verify this before I ruin my loop on accident. Depending on the answer I might have one for sale lol.


Throughout all our products, you will find POM, (nickel plated) copper, stainless steel, borosilicate glass or Plexi touching the water - but NEVER aluminum. We take a lot of pride in the fact that in 17 years of history, we NEVER went with a cheap aluminum product, but ALWAYS went for the higher quality materials.
In your product specifically, there will be POM, borosilicate glass and stainless steel in contact with the fluid.


----------



## Revan654

TheDarkSide said:


> I'm planning on using dual heatkiller tubes 200 (without the pumps) in an upcoming SMA8 build, but i couldn't find any pictures online showing how would that look. My worry is that the largest res heatkiller do would look small in the sma8.. anyone has experience with that or pics to share?





Watercool-Jakob said:


> You could ask @Revan654 for a shot of the entire inside of his case. Or you work through his entire worklog for one.
> Alternatively, you wait for Brian/BPSCustoms next build log episode. Youtube Link in my last post.


I don't have a SMA8 case, My case is THW10, Should give you a general idea how it looks. 


























If your going to with dual setup, make sure you plan ahead and have an easy way to fill the loop. Also a way to take air out and also in.

I use these for Air Exhaust:










and Created an easy Fill port that drains into another reservoir:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Revan654 said:


> I don't have a SMA8 case, My case is THW10, Should give you a general idea how it looks.


Oops. Sorry, remembered that wrong. Nevertheless, thanks for stepping in 

Brian uploaded a pic of the general llop layout on Twitter, btw:
https://twitter.com/BPS_Customs/status/982087859367800832



Then, there is this piece:


----------



## DerComissar

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oops. Sorry, remembered that wrong. Nevertheless, thanks for stepping in
> 
> Brian uploaded a pic of the general llop layout on Twitter, btw:
> https://twitter.com/BPS_Customs/status/982087859367800832
> 
> 
> 
> Then, there is this piece:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us6EiY12Poc


Well done Jakob.

The video was a good showcase for Watercool's finest, and well presented.

I've seen cars with smaller rads than those Moras!


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## TheDarkSide

Revan654 said:


> I don't have a SMA8 case, My case is THW10, Should give you a general idea how it looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your going to with dual setup, make sure you plan ahead and have an easy way to fill the loop. Also a way to take air out and also in.
> 
> I use these for Air Exhaust:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and Created an easy Fill port that drains into another reservoir:





Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oops. Sorry, remembered that wrong. Nevertheless, thanks for stepping in
> 
> Brian uploaded a pic of the general llop layout on Twitter, btw:
> https://twitter.com/BPS_Customs/status/982087859367800832
> 
> 
> 
> Then, there is this piece:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us6EiY12Poc



Thank you both! that helped.


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Revan654 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a SMA8 case, My case is THW10, Should give you a general idea how it looks.
> 
> 
> 
> Oops. Sorry, remembered that wrong. Nevertheless, thanks for stepping in /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Brian uploaded a pic of the general llop layout on Twitter, btw:
> https://twitter.com/BPS_Customs/status/982087859367800832
> 
> 
> 
> Then, there is this piece:
Click to expand...

Great little video. Did you guys draw some onlookers? Maybe stuff like computex etc would be a good venue for you guys? 



Jameswalt1 said:


> https://youtu.be/9F3Pdw-hvpM


Absolutely stunning, love the fan grill design as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

Jyve said:


> If you are air cooling your gpu then I highly recommend not vertically mounting your gpu. It typically is up close against the side panel and really hurts the cooling efforts of the card. IMO they should only be used if water cooling your video card. Yeah they do look cool but if your card throttles down is it really worth it? Lost performance for looks.
> 
> Also as another poster mentioned you'll typically lose access to a lot of your other slots. I was able to squeeze a sound blaster z in mine however. I think it depends on the case.


Hi,
Yep bingo slots gone 
I do have it on the air cooler again the ftw3 did not like the ek copper water block at all
Might try the ek block again could of been assembly error or something that made the ftw3 throw a fit on load 
It idled fine 25c but as soon as load hit it went to 90c :/


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jameswalt1 said:


> https://youtu.be/9F3Pdw-hvpM


DUDE! Okay, I'll try to plan some event in western USA just so I can have a chance to see this PC in person  Super amazing work, love everything about it! Thanks for using our products!



Paprika said:


> Great little video. Did you guys draw some onlookers? Maybe stuff like computex etc would be a good venue for you guys?


Thanks, happy that you guys like it. I hate seeing (and hearing) myself on camera. But I gave that very speech so often, I guess I could recite it in my sleep 
We're not planning to go to Computex as of yet.


----------



## ruffhi

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Then, there is this piece:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us6EiY12Poc


Excellent video ... but I had to laugh when you said 600g to 'how heavy is that CPU block?'. Most Americans refuse to learn metric so I would not be surprised if you answer didn't help the guy with the question. Just try asking for 400g of sliced beef at the deli ... all you get are blank looks.

I'll be at PAX East tomorrow - see you there.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Can anyone who is using the Heatkiller IV TR block on a 1950x report what load temps they are getting. Posting voltage and your cooling capacity would be helpful as well. Trying to determine what I should be expecting out of the TR block on my 1950x being cooled by a single Black Ice SR2 480.


----------



## MNMadman

PuffinMyLye said:


> Can anyone who is using the Heatkiller IV TR block on a 1950x report what load temps they are getting. Posting voltage and your cooling capacity would be helpful as well. Trying to determine what I should be expecting out of the TR block on my 1950x being cooled by a single Black Ice SR2 480.


Check the [H]ardOCP reviews of the Threadripper blocks. They are using an XSPC RX480, so should give you a ballpark figure.


----------



## Jyve

ThrashZone said:


> Jyve said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you are air cooling your gpu then I highly recommend not vertically mounting your gpu. It typically is up close against the side panel and really hurts the cooling efforts of the card. IMO they should only be used if water cooling your video card. Yeah they do look cool but if your card throttles down is it really worth it? Lost performance for looks.
> 
> Also as another poster mentioned you'll typically lose access to a lot of your other slots. I was able to squeeze a sound blaster z in mine however. I think it depends on the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Yep bingo slots gone
> I do have it on the air cooler again the ftw3 did not like the ek copper water block at all
> Might try the ek block again could of been assembly error or something that made the ftw3 throw a fit on load
> It idled fine 25c but as soon as load hit it went to 90c :/
Click to expand...

Are you using an actual ftw3 block? Might be a dumb question but the reference block won't fit the ftw3 card. Watch your temps with that card vertical though. It won't actually 'throttle', but you certainly won't get ideal temps and may in fact drop a couple boost tiers.


----------



## fx3861

Was really hoping for a gtx 1080 asus strix soon...???


----------



## PuffinMyLye

MNMadman said:


> PuffinMyLye said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone who is using the Heatkiller IV TR block on a 1950x report what load temps they are getting. Posting voltage and your cooling capacity would be helpful as well. Trying to determine what I should be expecting out of the TR block on my 1950x being cooled by a single Black Ice SR2 480.
> 
> 
> 
> Check the [H]ardOCP reviews of the Threadripper blocks. They are using an XSPC RX480, so should give you a ballpark figure.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I think I need to try a reseat. I turned the vcore up to 1.4 for a quick test and the temps shot right up to 66-68C. That doesn't seem right given my loop components.


----------



## Aenra

PuffinMyLye said:


> That doesn't seem right



No, it doesn't. 
*Edit: Actually strike that, am now not so sure.. i just remembered what fans you're using.. it could be right you know.. your rad isn't exactly the beefiest in the planet and your fans aren't exactly performance oriented either. 
My apologies, originally thought of this in personal terms, 2500 Vardars push-pull + Nemesis GTR. 
Either way, definitely worth trying a reseating, won't hurt.

And because TR4s are way too large, a bit of advice: 
Start by spreading the paste uniformly all over the IHS, a proper good spread, not too thin either, cover everything. Then add an extra 5 pea-sized paste blobs, so as they form a diamond; yeah, on top of said already applied uniform spread. And leave those be, let the block spread them by itself.
Also, it's possible you're not screwed down all the way, torque notwithstanding; a safer way is to go by the 1-2-3 method, but in two gos. To explain, start with '1', screw it down just a little bit, enough to know it's threaded; go to '2', do same, just a little bit, see if it's threaded in, then '3', likewise; _then_ start the proper screwing down, again in the correct order.

Hope that helps.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Aenra said:


> PuffinMyLye said:
> 
> 
> 
> That doesn't seem right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, it doesn't.
> *Edit: Actually strike that, am now not so sure.. i just remembered what fans you're using.. it could be right you know.. your rad isn't exactly the beefiest in the planet and your fans aren't exactly performance oriented either.
> My apologies, originally thought of this in personal terms, 2500 Vardars push-pull + Nemesis GTR.
> Either way, definitely worth trying a reseating, won't hurt.
> 
> And because TR4s are way too large, a bit of advice:
> Start by spreading the paste uniformly all over the IHS, a proper good spread, not too thin either, cover everything. Then add an extra 5 pea-sized paste blobs, so as they form a diamond; yeah, on top of said already applied uniform spread. And leave those be, let the block spread them by itself.
> Also, it's possible you're not screwed down all the way, torque notwithstanding; a safer way is to go by the 1-2-3 method, but in two gos. To explain, start with '1', screw it down just a little bit, enough to know it's threaded; go to '2', do same, just a little bit, see if it's threaded in, then '3', likewise; _then_ start the proper screwing down, again in the correct order.
> 
> Hope that helps.
Click to expand...


I used the method shown in this video to apply my TIM and install my block. But either way I think I need to try again. 

https://youtu.be/lcD3DbhNjp8


----------



## Dotachin

PuffinMyLye said:


> I used the method shown in this video to apply my TIM and install my block. But either way I think I need to try again.
> 
> https://youtu.be/lcD3DbhNjp8


Just in case you want to try, I used this method and it spreads well. But your temps won't drop much imo.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Ok, just set voltage to 1.3 (reading as 1.25 in HWinfo64) and clock to 3.9Ghz in Ryzen Master. Prime95 SmallFFT Test brought temps up to 62C after just a few minutes. I think I have no choice but to try a reseat. I can't imagine that a TR4 block + 480mm rad isn't enough to OC to 3.9Ghz.


----------



## springs113

I use the x method on my cpu...I think I won the lottery though because gaming @3.7ghz my cpu hovers around 34-36c...I haven't tried 4ghz yet since I switched blocks but I am quite certain I got lucky. I also think the x pattern maybe best, no need to spread the TIM at least not in my op.


----------



## jvillaveces

Stiltz85 said:


> I don't mean to crash in here uninvited as I do not own any heatkiller blocks but I do have a 200mm heatkiller tube D5 and I have a question about it as any info I find is vague _(and in German)_.
> Can anyone verify if the heatkiller tube is aluminum or copper and/or nickel?
> 
> I am getting ready to put a build together and would really like to verify this before I ruin my loop on accident. Depending on the answer I might have one for sale lol.


The tube itself is borosilicate glass, the struts are aluminum, the caps are delrin


----------



## ThrashZone

PuffinMyLye said:


> I used the method shown in this video to apply my TIM and install my block. But either way I think I need to try again.
> 
> https://youtu.be/lcD3DbhNjp8


Hi,
WOW that's looks like the way not to do it what a mess


----------



## fx3861

Any idea which link is the one for the inner tubing used in the multi top. Mine broke at the threaded part, so unable to screw it in.


----------



## Aenra

PuffinMyLye said:


> I used the method shown in this video



Can only advise on what i've tried and have known, beyond doubt, to work; as in making an actual difference. Beyond that..


----------



## Madmaxneo

TBH I've tried a few different methods of applying TIM and there was barely any difference except on a few. Those few used more TIM than normal and the temps seemed slightly higher than normal and there was always a mess to clean up when I removed my chip for one reason or another....


----------



## Aenra

Madmaxneo said:


> and there was barely any difference



Careful.. 

- How good is your thermal paste? If it doesn't have a very high conductivity, it's not the paste to test this with.
- How old is your thermal paste? Literally; shelf time.
- How do you measure said temp variation? If with software... a good indicator, but not enough to take to the bank; especially on OCed CPUs, the sensors get borked real quick.
- If with hardware, how and with what kind of an equipment? The freebie mobile app, the dedicated 20bucks worth one, or the 200bucks one?
- How many times tested before deciding your results are accurate?
- Last and definitely not least, how capable are you of maintaining (relatively) identical ambients in between testings?

* Also, how long did you leave it on before testing? And how sure do you want to be that you're not gonna need to re-paste it in about a year? There's more to this than the immediate benefits.
Just to give some indication, yeah? If you're fine with your system, all good needless to say :thumb:
You wanna take the old fart's word for it, never a reason to be shy with non-conductive thermal paste. Always give it a good one, lol


----------



## springs113

I've used the Amd 5 way method, the pea/blob/x and the aio setup. I find that where the application method really matters is when you are overclocking. As even have been reported by Gamers Nexus.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jumping in to leave one ore video right here: 




It seems as if people are really into our MO-RA3 

I'll be heading to the airport soon. PAX was a blast, thanks to everyone who stopped by (Hi, ruffhi). I'll be trapped in international travel for the next 24 hours, and will go back to normal forums presence by ~Thursday.


----------



## ruffhi

Watercool-Jakob said:


> PAX was a blast, thanks to everyone who stopped by (Hi, ruffhi)


G'Day. I had to cycle past the ModMyMods / Watercool display 3 or 4 times to catch up with the elusive Mr Jakob. Great to see you and I hope you had a good trip home.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Aenra said:


> Careful..
> 
> - How good is your thermal paste? If it doesn't have a very high conductivity, it's not the paste to test this with.
> - How old is your thermal paste? Literally; shelf time.
> - How do you measure said temp variation? If with software... a good indicator, but not enough to take to the bank; especially on OCed CPUs, the sensors get borked real quick.
> - If with hardware, how and with what kind of an equipment? The freebie mobile app, the dedicated 20bucks worth one, or the 200bucks one?
> - How many times tested before deciding your results are accurate?
> - Last and definitely not least, how capable are you of maintaining (relatively) identical ambients in between testings?
> 
> * Also, how long did you leave it on before testing? And how sure do you want to be that you're not gonna need to re-paste it in about a year? There's more to this than the immediate benefits.
> Just to give some indication, yeah? If you're fine with your system, all good needless to say :thumb:
> You wanna take the old fart's word for it, never a reason to be shy with non-conductive thermal paste. Always give it a good one, lol


I have used different kinds of thermal paste and so far the best one I have tried is the thermal grizzly. For shelf time with the grizzly I have used it being a little more than a year old and it puts the temps back to like they were before. I've used both software and hardware to monitor temps. So far the software I have used is dead on with the hardware though sometimes different software show a difference between them by a few degrees. I am currently just using the CAM software from NZXT. It shows the same temps as when I was using it a couple of years ago. 
As far as the other stuff my temps are usually the same year round. I'd say that after a few years of doing this and not noticing any real difference is a good indicator. As long as you have a drop on the center of your die I'd say you are good to go.


----------



## Juris

Can anyone tell me how many mm's a D5 pump sticks out the bottom of the Heatkiller D5 tube. I'm trying to find a way to cover my butt ugly MCP655 PWM and illuminate it through the covers base like the pic below but of course I can't use the standard Bitspower style D5 cover on the Tube. I wish Watercool made a pump cover. Hint hint Jakob


----------



## Memmento Mori

Also here a question....

are the Watercool GPU blocks for VEGA64 fitting also one of the following versions?

SAPPHIRE Radeon RX Vega 64 8G HBM2 Liquid Cooling
SAPPHIRE NITRO+ Radeon RX Vega 64 8G HBM2


Or it fits just the original turbo version? 

Any info, experiance sharing would be nice 

thanks,

BR, MM :axesmiley


----------



## Jyve

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Jumping in to leave one ore video right here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems as if people are really into our MO-RA3 /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> I'll be heading to the airport soon. PAX was a blast, thanks to everyone who stopped by (Hi, ruffhi/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif). I'll be trapped in international travel for the next 24 hours, and will go back to normal forums presence by ~Thursday.


I don't suppose you'll be going to Pax prime (west)? This may or may not determine if I'll be going 🙂


----------



## Jyve

Memmento Mori said:


> Also here a question....
> 
> are the Watercool GPU blocks for VEGA64 fitting also one of the following versions?
> 
> SAPPHIRE Radeon RX Vega 64 8G HBM2 Liquid Cooling
> SAPPHIRE NITRO+ Radeon RX Vega 64 8G HBM2
> 
> 
> Or it fits just the original turbo version?
> 
> Any info, experiance sharing would be nice /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> thanks,
> 
> BR, MM /forum/images/smilies/axesmiley.png


It won't matter what previous cooler is on your Vega but what pcb is underneath. Double check on the card you own if it's a reference pcb or not. If it is then you should be good to go on a heatkiller block.

*edit* it looks like the nitro for sure isn't a reference pcb. Hard to tell about the other. That looks like the reference vega liquid cooled version initially announced when they came out so that MIGHT be. Your best bet is to email sapphire and ask them directly.


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Jakob. So an unfortunate accident. A screw driver rolled down my work area and ran into the intake pipe for my multi-port top. 100% my fault... but it made me realize how fragile that part is. I would say the screw driver barely hit it (speed/force) and yet it cracked it up and down. IDK if it's in the realm of consideration... but have you given any thought to changing the type of glass for this component (I'm assuming it is not borosilicate glass?) or perhaps a plastic? If we order a multiport top through your webstore, could we request an additional pipe?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jyve said:


> I don't suppose you'll be going to Pax prime (west)? This may or may not determine if I'll be going 🙂


We don't currently plan to attend PAX West. I'd love to do so, so if that plan changes, I'll let you know 



Memmento Mori said:


> are the Watercool GPU blocks for VEGA64 fitting also one of the following versions?
> 
> SAPPHIRE Radeon RX Vega 64 8G HBM2 Liquid Cooling
> SAPPHIRE NITRO+ Radeon RX Vega 64 8G HBM2
> 
> Or it fits just the original turbo version?


Please check our GPU comaptibility chart at http://gpu.watercool.de for these kind of questions. The liquid cooling Vegas come with a different backplate which isn't compatible with our standard mounting material. If you want to buy it, please contact me at [email protected] and I'll make sure that you'll get the correct mounting material. The NITRO+ is a custom layout and definitely not compatible.




paskowitz said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* . So an unfortunate accident. A screw driver rolled down my work area and ran into the intake pipe for my multi-port top. 100% my fault... but it made me realize how fragile that part is. I would say the screw driver barely hit it (speed/force) and yet it cracked it up and down. IDK if it's in the realm of consideration... but have you given any thought to changing the type of glass for this component (I'm assuming it is not borosilicate glass?) or perhaps a plastic? If we order a multiport top through your webstore, could we request an additional pipe?


The standpipe is acrylic, that is correct. Yes, we are already planning to replace those with borosilicate glass as well. And yes, if you order from our shop directly and ask for it, we will send you a second standpipe


----------



## paskowitz

Awesome. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Jyve

Ok. Looking at PPC and they have heatkiller iv blocks for the Titan X / gtx 1080ti for 120 and another listing for one for just a 1080ti for 139. What's the difference between the two? Other than 20 bucks? They the same block?


----------



## SavantStrike

Jyve said:


> Ok. Looking at PPC and they have heatkiller iv blocks for the Titan X / gtx 1080ti for 120 and another listing for one for just a 1080ti for 139. What's the difference between the two? Other than 20 bucks? They the same block?


The Titan x variant has a cutout for a DVI port, the 1080 TI version does not.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I would think that was the other way around
1080ti would have a dvi 
Titan Xp would not


----------



## Aenra

Has anyone here used conductonaut between lid and watercool's nickel plated blocks (not die-to-lid, talking about lid-to-block)? And for _over_ a year straight, without re-applying or anything?
If so could you please share your experience? In regard to the block's condition that is.


----------



## Jameswalt1




----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jyve said:


> Ok. Looking at PPC and they have heatkiller iv blocks for the Titan X / gtx 1080ti for 120 and another listing for one for just a 1080ti for 139. What's the difference between the two? Other than 20 bucks? They the same block?





SavantStrike said:


> The Titan x variant has a cutout for a DVI port, the 1080 TI version does not.


Yup. That should be the only differ3ence between those two. Why PPCs has such a big price jump between the two: I have no idea. 



Aenra said:


> Has anyone here used conductonaut between lid and watercool's nickel plated blocks (not die-to-lid, talking about lid-to-block)? And for _over_ a year straight, without re-applying or anything?
> If so could you please share your experience? In regard to the block's condition that is.


We tried it a bunch of times for testing purposes and never had any problems. Those were short-term tests (somewhere between a few hours and a few days, usually). But neither have we ever had a single RMA case involving nickel plated products and conductonaut. SO I guess that they are pretty compatible with each other. 



Jameswalt1 said:


> Spoiler


OH MAN! This thing really became a piece of art! I love everything about it!


----------



## paskowitz

Any idea what the various width of the various Heatkiller rads will be? I am realizing this is one area that really affects case compatibility.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> But neither have we ever had a single RMA case involving nickel plated products and conductonaut. SO I guess that they are pretty compatible with each other



Well i guess i've just volunteered to be the lab rat then 
Will post results and pics in about a year, lol, am really curious as to what it's gonna look like. 

(don't say it..)


----------



## paskowitz

Aenra said:


> Well i guess i've just volunteered to be the lab rat then
> Will post results and pics in about a year, lol, am really curious as to what it's gonna look like.
> 
> (don't say it..)


Totally missed this. I have, kinda. I have had Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra on for like 8 moths. Zero issues. There is some *MILD* staining, but zero adhesion or nickle plating issues.


----------



## Aenra

paskowitz said:


> I have had Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra on for like 8 moths. Zero issues. There is some *MILD* staining, but zero adhesion or nickle plating issues.



That's very good to know, especially given the fact that you're using Colab's, as it (purportedly anyway) tends to.. stain more was it? Or dry out faster? Whatever.
If you wouldn't mind a follow up; have you seen any noticeable temp variations, what with a straight 8 months period?

And my thanks for replying


----------



## paskowitz

Aenra said:


> That's very good to know, especially given the fact that you're using Colab's, as it (purportedly anyway) tends to.. stain more was it? Or dry out faster? Whatever.
> If you wouldn't mind a follow up; have you seen any noticeable temp variations, what with a straight 8 months period?
> 
> And my thanks for replying


Yeah, only temp variation was because I had to clean my whole damn system because EK coolant + Primochill AdvLRT = bad day. So, I can't speak to the CLU affecting temps since I had that going on. I have had CLU on my IHS (in between maintenance) for a while now (more than 8 months in total). Again, no problems. I think the key is to make sure you really take your time with the application. On the die and the IHS. When you put the IHS back on the die... BE CAREFUL... and don't move the IHS once it is on. Secure it with the delid tool and use a small amount of medium strength glue on each corner (NOT under the IHS, on the PCB/IHS sides). Then for the IHS to CPU block, make sure you apply a full, thin and even coat on both the IHS and coldplate. And when I mean thin, I mean, no globs or pools of LM. Then when you set the block on the IHS, again, be careful so you don't have to adjust it.


----------



## Aenra

paskowitz said:


> Then for the IHS to CPU block, make sure you apply a full, thin and even coat on both the IHS and coldplate



hmm, you applied it on both, huh.. was thinking on top of the lid only myself; wavy, not runny, if you get my meaning. I'd fear its leaking outside the contact area if i did both, though obviously you've not run into such an issue. Now you've got me thinking. The problem is that it's a ***** to have a thorough look in between you know? After the block's screwed down i mean.

* Edit: if not obvious, not my first rodeo, done a delidding before; just never applied LM _on top_ of a lid before. Unit is a 1950X, that's a whole lotta (rosie) surface to cover, but one way or another, i have convinced myself it's worth it, lol.. i want to see if i can keep a stable 4.2GHz ^^


----------



## paskowitz

Aenra said:


> paskowitz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Then for the IHS to CPU block, make sure you apply a full, thin and even coat on both the IHS and coldplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmm, you applied it on both, huh.. was thinking on top of the lid only myself; wavy, not runny, if you get my meaning. I'd fear its leaking outside the contact area if i did both, though obviously you've not run into such an issue. Now you've got me thinking. The problem is that it's a ***** to have a thorough look in between you know? After the block's screwed down i mean.
> 
> * Edit: if not obvious, not my first rodeo, done a delidding before; just never applied LM _on top_ of a lid before. Unit is a 1950X, that's a whole lotta (rosie) surface to cover, but one way or another, i have convinced myself it's worth it, lol.. i want to see if i can keep a stable 4.2GHz ^^
Click to expand...

LM doesn't pump as long as you don't over apply it. You should also use the include steel wool to lightly rough up the surfaces of the threadripper and CPU block. This will help contact and adhesion. If you want to be safe, leave a little border of no LM around the edge of the Threadripper IHS. 

Honestly, the only time I've seen LM go over there IHS, was because the person applied the LM while the CPU was in the socket and they shipped while applying the LM. Naturally, don't do that.


----------



## Bill Owen

the Tears in Rain PC turned out really nice.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Bill Owen said:


> the Tears in Rain PC turned out really nice.


Cheers!


----------



## Jokesterwild

Does anyone know if with the Conversion Kit HEATKILLER IV if you need the one with all the hardware or just the plates? Can you use the springs and bolts from the intel on the Ryzen setup?


----------



## Paprika

Waiting for my new case and needed to set up the loop temporarily.

1950X, 1080ti all with nickel heatkiller blocks and a mo-ra420 pro.
Ghetto as hell, but by god it works well.


----------



## Jyve

Paprika said:


> Waiting for my new case and needed to set up the loop temporarily.
> 
> 1950X, 1080ti all with nickel heatkiller blocks and a mo-ra420 pro.
> Ghetto as hell, but by god it works well.


Good luck finding a case to fit that fan! 😉


----------



## Paprika

Jyve said:


> Good luck finding a case to fit that fan! 😉


Getting a case custom made by Parvum.

It'll fit two of the MO-RA3 420s.


----------



## Aenra

Jyve said:


> Good luck finding a case to fit that fan! 😉



Personally i was wondering about its static pressure, must be a new model 'cause i haven't seen it before 

Didn't know Parvum makes custom cases, but then again, i never really bothered with them either, too much acrylic and bling factor, so stopped paying attention a looong time ago.
Paprika when you get it, a few pics would be appreciated, preferably after it's assembled but before it's populated with anything.


----------



## Paprika

There will be a build log, so no worries about that.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jokesterwild said:


> Does anyone know if with the Conversion Kit HEATKILLER IV if you need the one with all the hardware or just the plates? Can you use the springs and bolts from the intel on the Ryzen setup?


The mounting hardware for inteland AMD sockets varies. So if you have an Intel version and want to converse to AMD (or the other way round), you need the full conversion kit, including all the mounting hardware. 



Paprika said:


> Waiting for my new case and needed to set up the loop temporarily.
> 
> 1950X, 1080ti all with nickel heatkiller blocks and a mo-ra420 pro.
> Ghetto as hell, but by god it works well.


That looks so funny! Keep us updated about your progress!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Hey Jakob, would you be able to measure the height of the 1070 Strix waterblock? Getting a Lian Li PC011 Dynamic which is the first case I've ever heard of having a height restriction for horizontal mounting, and I may have to end up buying a new waterblock.


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That looks so funny! Keep us updated about your progress!


Need to get that zenith vrm block and then we'll be in business.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Hey Jakob, would you be able to measure the height of the 1070 Strix waterblock?


Sure! The measurements are none*none mm  

No, joking aside: we don't support the Strix line of GPUs yet. We plan to do so for the next generation of cards, though. But unfortunately, I cannot help you with this card right now.


----------



## snef

ohhhhhh maybe a support for next Strix, you just make my day,


----------



## fx3861

Just hoping the next gen strix will have the same pcb layout for the current ones. Yes i know, its a long shot hope


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Sure! The measurements are none*none mm
> 
> No, joking aside: we don't support the Strix line of GPUs yet. We plan to do so for the next generation of cards, though. But unfortunately, I cannot help you with this card right now.


Oh dang, coulda swore you guys made a Strix block! Must be dreaming heh.


----------



## Aenra

Wish/request:

Cylindrical reservoir from borosilicate glass and high quality delrim; sporting only one outlet below, smack in the middle, and the Heatkiller 'smart' twist top above, just like the Heatkiller Tube default shipping version has. Except yeah, cylindrical.
Why? So that this: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30009 can have a match, for those that don't want a square res or can't fit one as easily as they would a round one. They have their uses and i assume always will.

Plastic, sorry.. Acetal... res, sure, i could find elsewhere, cylindrical too, but.. no way i'm going back to plastic, i'm spoiled now 
Would be cool if you guys made one eventually.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Aenra said:


> Wish/request:
> 
> Cylindrical reservoir from borosilicate glass and high quality delrim; sporting only one outlet below, smack in the middle, and the Heatkiller 'smart' twist top above, just like the Heatkiller Tube default shipping version has. Except yeah, cylindrical.
> Why? So that this: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30009 can have a match, for those that don't want a square res or can't fit one as easily as they would a round one. They have their uses and i assume always will.
> 
> Plastic, sorry.. Acetal... res, sure, i could find elsewhere, cylindrical too, but.. no way i'm going back to plastic, i'm spoiled now
> Would be cool if you guys made one eventually.


Look into Singularity Computers for that. I actually love the rectangular shape of the Heatkiller res and is the main reason I'm considering it. Ack, looks like the cylinder is acrylic.

Jakob, another question. Are the LED strips for the reservoir compatible with Corsair's RGB controller?


----------



## Paprika

Watercool + Barrow = true 😍

Tube 200 ddc, xylem-plus type and about 13 Barrow fittings. Drain and temp sensors included.


----------



## Aenra

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Look into Singularity Computers for that



No i won't. But feel free to buy overpriced components because youtube hype anytime you want to. Me, i'm posting in a watercool.de thread, asking about future Watercool products


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> Wish/request:
> 
> Cylindrical reservoir from borosilicate glass and high quality delrim; sporting only one outlet below, smack in the middle, and the Heatkiller 'smart' twist top above, just like the Heatkiller Tube default shipping version has. Except yeah, cylindrical.
> Why? So that this: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30009 can have a match, for those that don't want a square res or can't fit one as easily as they would a round one. They have their uses and i assume always will.
> 
> Plastic, sorry.. Acetal... res, sure, i could find elsewhere, cylindrical too, but.. no way i'm going back to plastic, i'm spoiled now
> Would be cool if you guys made one eventually.


Thanks for the request. Unfortunately, we're currently not planning on developing such a reservoir. 



Paprika said:


> Watercool + Barrow = true 😍
> 
> Tube 200 ddc, xylem-plus type and about 13 Barrow fittings. Drain and temp sensors included.


Oh wow, that looks like a complicated plumbing job. Really curious to see how that will fit into your build. Have you already opened a build log somewhere? Would love to follow!



SlvrDragon50 said:


> Jakob, another question. Are the LED strips for the reservoir compatible with Corsair's RGB controller?


I cannot definitely confirm, we haven't physically tested Corsair's controller. We tested our strips with RGB LED by ASRock, AURA by ASUS, AORUS RGB FUSION by GIGABYTE, MYSTIC LIGHT by MSI and AquaComputer farbwerk controllers. So if Corsair didn't digress from ALL other major manufacturers, the strips should work perfectly fine.


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh wow, that looks like a complicated plumbing job. Really curious to see how that will fit into your build. Have you already opened a build log somewhere? Would love to follow!


This is for a customer, so no build log unfortunately.

My rig is much more extreme, and Parvum should be cutting the case soonTM.


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Jakob Do you know if the ports on the HK IV Pro align with the reference ##80 Ti GPU blocks? By align I mean center points along X axis and port spacing?

I just had to do a build with Phanteks blocks... a boy oh boy was that not fun. Neither the X axis or port spacing was the same between the blocks. Royal PIA to do parallel runs.


----------



## TheArkratos

paskowitz said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Do you know if the ports on the HK IV Pro align with the reference ##80 Ti GPU blocks? By align I mean center points along X axis and port spacing?
> 
> I just had to do a build with Phanteks blocks... a boy oh boy was that not fun. Neither the X axis or port spacing was the same between the blocks. Royal PIA to do parallel runs.


Doesn't that depend 100% on the motherboard?


----------



## Paprika

paskowitz said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Do you know if the ports on the HK IV Pro align with the reference ##80 Ti GPU blocks? By align I mean center points along X axis and port spacing?
> 
> I just had to do a build with Phanteks blocks... a boy oh boy was that not fun. Neither the X axis or port spacing was the same between the blocks. Royal PIA to do parallel runs.





TheArkratos said:


> Doesn't that depend 100% on the motherboard?



Correct. Spacing of the ports on the block matter a little bit, but mostly the motherboard itself.


----------



## TheArkratos

Well the port spacing doesn't but the X Axis location does.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

paskowitz said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Do you know if the ports on the HK IV Pro align with the reference ##80 Ti GPU blocks? By align I mean center points along X axis and port spacing?
> 
> I just had to do a build with Phanteks blocks... a boy oh boy was that not fun. Neither the X axis or port spacing was the same between the blocks. Royal PIA to do parallel runs.


The distance between the ports both on the GPU terminal and the CPU block is exactly 25mm. So that part would be parallel (if the CPU block is mounted "goofy" as in having the ports next to each other). The X-axis orientation of the socket in relation to the PCI-e slot depends completely on the motherboard, so I cannot comment on that. But with perfectly identical bends from GPU to CPU, a perfectly parallel loop is possible.


----------



## superino

hello guys I also write here seen the support on the official forum I do not answer (shame) 
I'm having a serious problem Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro Intel - Copper Ni, we are sure it is compatible with the Socket 2066?
I explain in any way the mount (any side) with the socket screws 2066 does not adhere perfectly there is a side that does not take the thermal paste I tried everything I thought was the delid is I tried with another cpu without delid but the proplema persists and I find myself with much warmer cores
as a motherboard is an asus rampage vi extreme and cpu intel 7820x
sorry for my english use google


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

superino said:


> hello guys I also write here seen the support on the official forum I do not answer (shame)
> I'm having a serious problem Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro Intel - Copper Ni, we are sure it is compatible with the Socket 2066?
> I explain in any way the mount (any side) with the socket screws 2066 does not adhere perfectly there is a side that does not take the thermal paste I tried everything I thought was the delid is I tried with another cpu without delid but the proplema persists and I find myself with much warmer cores
> as a motherboard is an asus rampage vi extreme and cpu intel 7820x
> sorry for my english use google


I literally just answered your post in our forum. I'll copy/paste that response here, too:



Code:


Hey Superino,
we are not sure if we are fully understanding what your problem is. 
- You wrote about a delidded CPU and incomplete contact and thermal paste spread. Did you reapply the IHS? If so, by which method? Or are you trying to mount the block directly on the die?
- In which orientation are you trying to mount the block onto the CPU? 
- Have you tried placing the block in another orientation?
- How much thermal paste have you been using, and how was it placed or spread?

Can you please provide a few pictures to explain both your mounting situation and your uneven thermal paste spread?

And as I said, a response time of ~20 hours seems pretty okay, in my opinion.


----------



## Barefooter

I see that another company just released a water block for the Intel 900P SSD.

@Jakob; is there any possibility we will see a Heatkiller water block for the Intel 900P?

I know you guys have a lot on your plate right now. I just would prefer to use a Heatkiller block if possible... you know to match the rest of my stuff


----------



## fx3861

Is it possible to convert my 200mm d5 reservoir to a 100mm by buying a spare 100mm glass tube and struts?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Barefooter said:


> I see that another company just released a water block for the Intel 900P SSD.
> 
> Jakob is there any possibility we will see a Heatkiller water block for the Intel 900P?
> 
> I know you guys have a lot on your plate right now. I just would prefer to use a Heatkiller block if possible... you know to match the rest of my stuff


No, we will not jump on that bandwaggon. We value functionality over style and are in watercooling for the performance gains. So we will focus our resources on developing performance-oriented products rather than SSD cooling  



fx3861 said:


> Is it possible to convert my 200mm d5 reservoir to a 100mm by buying a spare 100mm glass tube and struts?


Yes, it is. All components in this product family are modular and can be combined with each other.


----------



## M-oll

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, we will not jump on that bandwaggon. We value functionality over style and are in watercooling for the performance gains. So we will focus our resources on developing performance-oriented products rather than SSD cooling


Just what I'm expecting from German engineering; a no-nonsens design where less is more and performance does not have to take a back seat to aesthetics. Don't get me wrong, I think that your components also are very very beautiful, but I have never perceived that you're going for looks first and performance afterwards. Goethe did not say "It is in self-limitation that a master first shows himself" for nothing.


----------



## fx3861

Will the new rads be releasing soon? Waitng on it to revamp my set-up to dual loop


----------



## MNMadman

fx3861 said:


> Will the new rads be releasing soon? Waitng on it to revamp my set-up to dual loop


One of the new sponsored build logs mentioned that they will be using two of the new Watercool 360 radiators, so I would assume they will be coming Soon™.

Linky


----------



## Aenra

I know i'm often abrupt in my responses; the why isn't of issue, the what it entails however is 
It being that i will often go against my better judgement and look/doubt what i've read with my own eyes anyway, because hey, might be i got it wrong and what i've read notwithstanding. Happens.

So i did just that, and to the person "recommending" me Singularity Computers reservoirs (on a Watercool.de thread no less)?
Where did you see the boro glass dude? 'Cause all i'm seeing is acetal 

I was talking about plastic stuff and why i chose some very select few companies, and you go on to.. what? Refer me to another plastic reservoir?
And when i say 'Youtube/bling hype', people get offended..

Anyway, back to topic!
* Edit: which i forgot to type about, lol.. thanks to DerCommisar and his horrible influence! (it's all his fault!), i am kiiiinda contemplating buying a second Heatkiller top/res combo, run them both in series. Any possible issues i might face doing that? (combo 1 out -> combo 2 in -> combo 2 out -> loop -> combo 1 in). All input welcome, haven't done this before :S


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Aenra said:


> I know i'm often abrupt in my responses; the why isn't of issue, the what it entails however is
> It being that i will often go against my better judgement and look/doubt what i've read with my own eyes anyway, because hey, might be i got it wrong and what i've read notwithstanding. Happens.
> 
> So i did just that, and to the person "recommending" me Singularity Computers reservoirs (on a Watercool.de thread no less)?
> Where did you see the boro glass dude? 'Cause all i'm seeing is acetal
> 
> I was talking about plastic stuff and why i chose some very select few companies, and you go on to.. what? Refer me to another plastic reservoir?
> And when i say 'Youtube/bling hype', people get offended..
> 
> Anyway, back to topic!
> * Edit: which i forgot to type about, lol.. thanks to DerCommisar and his horrible influence! (it's all his fault!), i am kiiiinda contemplating buying a second Heatkiller top/res combo, run them both in series. Any possible issues i might face doing that? (combo 1 out -> combo 2 in -> combo 2 out -> loop -> combo 1 in). All input welcome, haven't done this before :S


If you read what I wrote, I edited in a correction saying it was actually acrylic. I didn't even reply to you, you're just bringing this stuff up on your own. I don't know why you feel the need to go back and stir the pot.

It seems like somehow I offended you incredibly by suggesting you look into Singularity Computers. If for some reason I did, I'm sorry? Though honestly, all you had to do was say, "No, thank you. It's actually an acrylic reservoir." While maybe you don't like Singularity Computers, many people do, and it's rude to call it "Youtube hype". It's not like they're leaking and destroying builds all over the place. We like to pay premiums for Watercool Heatkiller products, other people like Singularity Computers, and other people like Aquacomputer, etc. Heck, I didn't even discover Singularity Computers until I saw it on a build here on OCN, not Youtube.

tl;dr: I'm sorry for offending you by making a mistake and giving you a wrong suggestion.


----------



## Aenra

SlvrDragon50 said:


> It seems like somehow I offended you incredibly



Nope, not at all.
And i'm not trying to pick a bone either; you get one guy asking about apples, you get the very next post being another guy's saying 'Apples? Saw them sold right over there'; naturally, one would assume one post was directly linked to the other? Now if you say coincidence, coincidental it is. As already stated, no probs. Same with your editing, read your post before you edited it apparently.

My only problem (should it matter) is seeing what and why is hyped; that gets me every time. You can call it immature a reaction, and to some extent it really is, you can call it pointless, and it is that too, as man will remain man. It just bothers me; still; notwithstanding. It bothers me because it leads to flawed perceptions, skewed criteria, and an emphasis on the non-tangible, the non-practical and/or the non-optimal. So occasionally i can and will be found having a very vocal opposing view; which i make sure to express. It's something i just do, no matter whom it was that posted/advised something i consider to be hype-related. 
Could even go on to say that i also don't understand this 'Americanism', where strong or opposing opinion instantly equals personal issue/hate, ergo cause for offense, but that's the wrong forum for that.

Let's stick to it's all good and my bad if it was all a coincidence. At the least i'd hope you can see the logic behind my original thinking. A good day regardless


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

fx3861 said:


> Will the new rads be releasing soon? Waitng on it to revamp my set-up to dual loop


Soon™ it is indeed  Current schedule plans the release in the first week of July. But as is the nature of plans, they sometimes don't get put to full reality 



Aenra said:


> * Edit: which i forgot to type about, lol.. thanks to DerCommisar and his horrible influence! (it's all his fault!), i am kiiiinda contemplating buying a second Heatkiller top/res combo, run them both in series. Any possible issues i might face doing that? (combo 1 out -> combo 2 in -> combo 2 out -> loop -> combo 1 in). All input welcome, haven't done this before :S


The only issue I could see from that setup is that fluid levels in both reservoirs won't stay the same. The res that gets the feedback from the loop will collect all the air, essentially "dropping" fluid level, while the other res will have a "rising" fluid level. If you are okay with refilling the one res when all air is bled or planning on topping the reservoirs of anyways, you should be good to go.

And remember to post a pic of it, I'd love to know how it looks and works


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah I would hazard to guess where the best place to use 2 pumps would be before and after any radiator series.
pump/ rad/rad/pump/blocks..


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> And remember to post a pic of it, I'd love to know how it looks and works



Will do! 



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yeah I would hazard to guess where the best place to use 2 pumps would be before and after any radiator series.
> pump/ rad/rad/pump/blocks..



Thanks for chipping in Thrash, and yeah, what you're saying sounds a lot better. The thing is, i don't have the space for that; or rather, i could, but i'd need so much tubing going back and forth that it'd get difficult to work with in the end.
It's an S8 with 2 pedestals, one top, one bottom; imagine both combos on bottom ped, but going upwards and inside the main chassis; bottom left side, where the 2x120 cutout is, if that helps visualise it? One res in each. Got rads on top ped, so while it sounds spacy, ultimately, well.. not so much, lol. So while not ideal (i like your idea more tbh), at least it would be easier for me to manage everything?


----------



## DerComissar

Aenra said:


> Will do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for chipping in Thrash, and yeah, what you're saying sounds a lot better. The thing is, i don't have the space for that; or rather, i could, but i'd need so much tubing going back and forth that it'd get difficult to work with in the end.
> It's an S8 with 2 pedestals, one top, one bottom; imagine both combos on bottom ped, but going upwards and inside the main chassis; bottom left side, where the 2x120 cutout is, if that helps visualise it? One res in each. Got rads on top ped, so while it sounds spacy, ultimately, well.. not so much, lol. So while not ideal (i like your idea more tbh), at least it would be easier for me to manage everything?


Imo you should go with your plan, it's going to be a really unique setup, in that dual-ped S8.

Your idea to keep the tubing runs simpler and less complicated certainly helps to make things more manageable.

I'm looking forward to seeing this progress as well.


----------



## Aenra

DerComissar said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing this progress as well.



Thanks man. All i need is more.. more money! And more time.. which go together don't they! Ah well; but joking aside, am hoping for soon(tm), waiting for the new TRs 

(am also forwarding your address, email and related data to the missus; any complaints she has, she can from now on forward to you, lol)


----------



## Mads1

Waiting on these New Rads, any teasers yet.......... hint hint Jakob


----------



## chibi

Aye, teasers of rads would be excellent. Are you able to share dimensions? ***mm x ***mm x **mm (L x W x H)


----------



## Zero4549

Also chomping at the bit for teasers


----------



## iamjanco

Just a teaser...









...busy rewiring fans so I can hook up the Splitty9s and AQ6.


----------



## Zero4549

*grumbles*


----------



## Abaidor

iamjanco said:


> Just a teaser...
> 
> View attachment 173041
> 
> 
> ...busy rewiring fans so I can hook up the Splitty9s and AQ6.


Damn, since the first day you posted this dual MO-RA set-up my hand is itching.....I have on MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel now with 9X ML140 Pros and I can't stop thinking about buying a second one. Knowing me I will certainly succumb eventually even though I don't really need it. I am only cooling an i9-7940X & 1080Ti. 

Lol the only issue that I see is that the way I have designed my setup would make the second rad reach a height of about 220cm from the floor.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> Thanks man. All i need is more.. more money! And more time..


I know that feeling, man... 



Mads1 said:


> Waiting on these New Rads, any teasers yet.......... hint hint Jakob





chibi said:


> Aye, teasers of rads would be excellent. Are you able to share dimensions? ***mm x ***mm x **mm (L x W x H)





Zero4549 said:


> Also chomping at the bit for teasers


Okay okay, I heard you 
I cannot post pictures just yet. The prototypes aren't pretty, as they are only for performance testing, and the renders don't do the final products justice. So you'll have to wait a little longer for pics. The official release is currently planned for the first week of July, and we are hopüing that this will work out. We will start with the most common versions (240, 360, maybe 280) in the first step, and then release the more rarely used versions later on.
The whole lineup will be formed by single, dual and triple for 120mm and 140mm fans, all of these in slim, medium and thick (currently dubbed S, M, and L - not final release name). When these 18 products (!!!) are on the market and we have first round of feedback, we'll MAYBE even add a quad-rad (480 / 520), but this is still a highly debated topic. The measurements will be:
120mm:
S 132*35*160 (+120, +120...)
M 132*50*160
L 132*60*160

140mm:
S 140*35*180 (+140, +140...)
M 140*50*180
L 140*60*180

The thin rads will have only two ports, the M and L rads will have four ports. And, as stated previously: they are completely soldering-free, there will be no flux whatsoever in the whole flow path - these things will come absolutely clean!



iamjanco said:


> Just a teaser...


Oh wow, this sure looks impressive! Great work on the case setup, I really like it! Keep us updated 



Abaidor said:


> Damn, since the first day you posted this dual MO-RA set-up my hand is itching.....I have on MO-RA3 420 Pro Stainless Steel now with 9X ML140 Pros and I can't stop thinking about buying a second one. Knowing me I will certainly succumb eventually even though I don't really need it. I am only cooling an i9-7940X & 1080Ti.
> 
> Lol the only issue that I see is that the way I have designed my setup would make the second rad reach a height of about 220cm from the floor.


With two MO-RAs, you could proablyeven cool slight gaming loads completely passively! I'd love to see it just for the lulz


----------



## Streetdragon

hmmm i only need quad-rad... Feels bad man


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> With two MO-RAs, you could proablyeven cool slight gaming loads completely passively! I'd love to see it just for the lulz


You can actually cool a non-overclocked 1950X with an overclocked 1080ti passively with a single mo-ra3 420. CPU maxed out at 67C, GPU at ~45C in Witcher 3 1440P with heavy mods.
Pretty cool stuff.


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Okay okay, I heard you
> I cannot post pictures just yet. The prototypes aren't pretty, as they are only for performance testing, and the renders don't do the final products justice. So you'll have to wait a little longer for pics. The official release is currently planned for the first week of July, and we are hopüing that this will work out. We will start with the most common versions (240, 360, maybe 280) in the first step, and then release the more rarely used versions later on.
> The whole lineup will be formed by single, dual and triple for 120mm and 140mm fans, all of these in slim, medium and thick (currently dubbed S, M, and L - not final release name). When these 18 products (!!!) are on the market and we have first round of feedback, we'll MAYBE even add a quad-rad (480 / 520), but this is still a highly debated topic. The measurements will be:
> 120mm:
> S 132*35*160 (+120, +120...)
> M 132*50*160
> L 132*60*160
> 
> 140mm:
> S 140*35*180 (+140, +140...)
> M 140*50*180
> L 140*60*180
> 
> The thin rads will have only two ports, the M and L rads will have four ports. And, as stated previously: they are completely soldering-free, there will be no flux whatsoever in the whole flow path - these things will come absolutely clean!


These will be at the top of my list to consider for my next build in 2019. It's going to be a regular case build with a vertical GPU mount and internal rads this time instead of a bench with external rad. Initial case choices are either a Lian-Li PC O11 Dynamic or a Singularity Computers Spectre, so I'll be needing two or three of the L360 rads. I'll be using flex tubing in either case. Since I still have the unused Heatkiller TR4 block, I might go with a 2920X/2950X and X499 board. Or maybe I'll wait for 3920X/3950X and X599 or whatever...


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> 120mm:
> L 132*60*160



Did someone say 60 thick? Hmm.. Double hmm..
Am hoping you find a proper reviewer for these, i honestly do. Am very curious to see how they'll fare.

Can you by any chance mention the range of RPM they'll be tailored for? I know it's gonna be low (for my standards), but you know, there's low.. and then there's _low_. 
Given the usual watercool quality, i can already admit to temptation assuming they're not for _too_ low a speed range.

(if this goes on like that, i'll need a sticker saying 'sponsored by watercool' so i can put it on the front of the chassis, lol)


----------



## MNMadman

Aenra said:


> Did someone say 60 thick? Hmm.. Double hmm..
> Am hoping you find a proper reviewer for these, i honestly do. Am very curious to see how they'll fare.
> 
> Can you by any chance mention the range of RPM they'll be tailored for? I know it's gonna be low (for my standards), but you know, there's low.. and then there's _low_.
> Given the usual watercool quality, i can already admit to temptation assuming they're not for _too_ low a speed range.
> 
> (if this goes on like that, i'll need a sticker saying 'sponsored by watercool' so i can put it on the front of the chassis, lol)


Based on the poll they ran, likely the 800 RPM or less range. That got 47% of the votes, followed by 800-1000 RPM with 26% of the votes.

I voted in the bottom 2% as I heavily prioritize cooling performance.

And I would also like to have some Watercool vinyl stickers for my systems.


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I know that feeling, man...
> 
> With two MO-RAs, you could proablyeven cool slight gaming loads completely passively! I'd love to see it just for the lulz


Well as soon as I finish my build and the PC is on I will start planning for the second MO-RA! I know I want it. I will post images of the current set-up once finished but I am probably 1-2 weeks away due to excess workload and a huge deficit of time...The time is coming though...



Paprika said:


> You can actually cool a non-overclocked 1950X with an overclocked 1080ti passively with a single mo-ra3 420. CPU maxed out at 67C, GPU at ~45C in Witcher 3 1440P with heavy mods.
> Pretty cool stuff.


Maybe those 9XML140 Pros where not needed after all...damn and they cost some EUROS...


----------



## Aenra

MNMadman said:


> I voted in the bottom 2% as I heavily prioritize cooling performance



Me too, lol.. Life is never fair!


----------



## Barefooter

iamjanco said:


> Just a teaser...
> 
> View attachment 173041
> 
> 
> ...busy rewiring fans so I can hook up the Splitty9s and AQ6.


Awesome rad set up iamjanco!


----------



## Paprika

Abaidor said:


> Watercool-Jakob said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know that feeling, man... /forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif
> 
> With two MO-RAs, you could proablyeven cool slight gaming loads completely passively! I'd love to see it just for the lulz /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Well as soon as I finish my build and the PC is on I will start planning for the second MO-RA! I know I want it. I will post images of the current set-up once finished but I am probably 1-2 weeks away due to excess workload and a huge deficit of time...The time is coming though...
> 
> 
> 
> Paprika said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can actually cool a non-overclocked 1950X with an overclocked 1080ti passively with a single mo-ra3 420. CPU maxed out at 67C, GPU at ~45C in Witcher 3 1440P with heavy mods.
> Pretty cool stuff.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe those 9XML140 Pros where not needed after all...damn and they cost some EUROS...
Click to expand...

I've got two mo-ra3 as well, luckily my fans are sponsored. 
I wouldn't recommend running passive for long times on end, the water Temps will heat up regardless of how much radiator space you have.


----------



## Zero4549

Welp... New rads sound like they're going to be completely useless for my needs. Oh well, I'm sure they'll be useful for someone.


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> Awesome rad set up iamjanco!


Thanks!


----------



## MNMadman

Zero4549 said:


> Welp... New rads sound like they're going to be completely useless for my needs. Oh well, I'm sure they'll be useful for someone.


What makes you say that? Just because they're tuned for one RPM range doesn't mean they'll suck for the rest. I run my fans at max RPM but that doesn't mean I'm going to pass on these without giving them a chance.


----------



## Zero4549

You're right, its not 100% impossible that these rads will fit my usage, it is just exceedingly unlikely. I'd love to see reviews prove me wrong.

That said, it is a pretty safe assessment that sub 800rpm optimized, dual/triple fan premium heatkiller radiators aren't going to be winning best of ANYTHING for me when my usage condition is quad 120mm, 1000-1200RPM fans.

I have no doubt these will work well for small heat loads with silent operation. Thats clearly the target usage. They could probably handle higher loads with higher fan speeds, or with lots of these radiators, but at that point one would really be better served by the likes of HWLabs, or HK's own MORA. 

Im sure build quality and aesthetics will be top notch, possibly even the absolute, best if they can somehow manage to be prettier than AquaComputer's copper rad offerings (unlikely, but if anyone can do it, its Hearltkiller), but again that isn't of much importance for me personally when it wont even physicslly fit cleanly in the location I would like to use it.


----------



## Abaidor

Paprika said:


> I've got two mo-ra3 as well, luckily my fans are sponsored.
> I wouldn't recommend running passive for long times on end, the water Temps will heat up regardless of how much radiator space you have.


I won't go passive since I already have the fans and stocking on more since I want to test different fans. I also just ordered 2 140mm Silent Wings 3 PWM High Speed for testing. 

BTW, do you use filters on the RAD fans or not? How do you handle dust build-up?


----------



## Paprika

Abaidor said:


> I won't go passive since I already have the fans and stocking on more since I want to test different fans. I also just ordered 2 140mm Silent Wings 3 PWM High Speed for testing.
> 
> BTW, do you use filters on the RAD fans or not? How do you handle dust build-up?


I put them inside a case. :^)


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> You can actually cool a non-overclocked 1950X with an overclocked 1080ti passively with a single mo-ra3 420. CPU maxed out at 67C, GPU at ~45C in Witcher 3 1440P with heavy mods.
> Pretty cool stuff.





Paprika said:


> I wouldn't recommend running passive for long times on end, the water Temps will heat up regardless of how much radiator space you have.


As you know, my work consits of forums, social media posts, emails, and a little bit of photoshop. I do this for 7-10 hours a day with an i5-6600K @4.8GHz, an EVGA 1070 FTW and the MB VRMs in the cooling loop going to the wallmounted MO-RA 360. And during this, the fans at my MO-RA do not spin up at all. The water temp slowly rises to ~31°C, where it equalizes and stays. So no, the water temp does NOT heat up regardless of the rad space, which makes perfect sense: the energy put into the loop from the heating components stays approx consistent, and the energy that can be dissipated by the radiator is a constant, so it's just logic that the water temp will reach a certain equilibrium and not rise any more. If you add the same amount of energy on the one end, and remove the same amount of energy at the other end, the energy level of the transport medium in between can not change  




Aenra said:


> Can you by any chance mention the range of RPM they'll be tailored for? I know it's gonna be low (for my standards), but you know, there's low.. and then there's _low_.
> Given the usual watercool quality, i can already admit to temptation assuming they're not for _too_ low a speed range.
> 
> (if this goes on like that, i'll need a sticker saying 'sponsored by watercool' so i can put it on the front of the chassis, lol)





MNMadman said:


> Based on the poll they ran, likely the 800 RPM or less range. That got 47% of the votes, followed by 800-1000 RPM with 26% of the votes.
> 
> I voted in the bottom 2% as I heavily prioritize cooling performance.
> 
> And I would also like to have some Watercool vinyl stickers for my systems.





Zero4549 said:


> I have no doubt these will work well for small heat loads with silent operation. Thats clearly the target usage. They could probably handle higher loads with higher fan speeds, or with lots of these radiators, but at that point one would really be better served by the likes of HWLabs, or HK's own MORA.
> 
> Im sure build quality and aesthetics will be top notch, possibly even the absolute, best if they can somehow manage to be prettier than AquaComputer's copper rad offerings (unlikely, but if anyone can do it, its Hearltkiller), but again that isn't of much importance for me personally when it wont even physicslly fit cleanly in the location I would like to use it.


We do indeed optimize the rads so that they will perform most optimal within the 500-1000rpm range. But that doesn't mean that they will not function at all with 1200rpm  We will obviously send some samples to reputable review sites who will test the rads through a wide range of rpms, no doubt, so you will all have a good comparison to work with. 

But as mentioned by Zero, we see no point in optimizing a radiator for extreme fan speeds (1500rpm and more). If you want optimal cooling capacity, ANY internally mounted rad is always worse than an externally mounted one. If you are after maximum performance, we would ALWAYS recommend going for a MO-RA instead of any internal solution. So designing an internal rad for high rpm would cannibalize our own market segment and undermine our own product, and ultimately deliver a product that is inferior to the product we ALREADY HAVE - this will definitely not happen 

Regarding Case stickers / Batches: We are aware of the desire and look into it. Thanks for reminding me to follow these things up


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Paprika said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can actually cool a non-overclocked 1950X with an overclocked 1080ti passively with a single mo-ra3 420. CPU maxed out at 67C, GPU at ~45C in Witcher 3 1440P with heavy mods.
> Pretty cool stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paprika said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running passive for long times on end, the water Temps will heat up regardless of how much radiator space you have.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As you know, my work consits of forums, social media posts, emails, and a little bit of photoshop. I do this for 7-10 hours a day with an i5-6600K @4.8GHz, an EVGA 1070 FTW and the MB VRMs in the cooling loop going to the wallmounted MO-RA 360. And during this, the fans at my MO-RA do not spin up at all. The water temp slowly rises to ~31°C, where it equalizes and stays. So no, the water temp does NOT heat up regardless of the rad space, which makes perfect sense: the energy put into the loop from the heating components stays approx consistent, and the energy that can be dissipated by the radiator is a constant, so it's just logic that the water temp will reach a certain equilibrium and not rise any more. If you add the same amount of energy on the one end, and remove the same amount of energy at the other end, the energy level of the transport medium in between can not change /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Oh absolutely water will reach an equilibrium, but most people who get mo-ra3 afaik run monstrous rigs. Personally I run a 1080ti and 1950x, which is an entirely different beast than skylake etc. As I'm sure you're well aware of due to internal testing, both those components are infernal when it comes to heat production. 
My statement was more of a blanket one if anything. I simply wouldn't recommend not putting fans on your radiator regardless of how much areal you have.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> I simply wouldn't recommend not putting fans on your radiator regardless of how much areal you have.


Ah, sorry, I got you wrong. Yes, I agree, I would also always recommend HAVING fans and being able to shut them down over not having fans at all and NEEDING them in a heavy use case scenario.



Spoiler



My very first watercooled rig was actually a completely passive cooled one: I used several Cape Cora HF radiators, plus bare copper tubes that I bent to coils, and had all of that arranged around my desk. In summer times, I hit ~45°C water temp with that setup, which made the cheap tubing I had at the time so soft that it slipped out of a fitting, showering my whole motherboard. Twice. It was all a very ghetto rig and I ended that experiment for a good reason


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Hey Jakob,

Would you be able to provide the spacing between holes for the Heatkiller Tube stand? I am planning on mounting it on top of a 120mm fan bracket as I can't find the tube brackets + 120mm fan adapters anywhere in the US.


----------



## chibi

My bench build is getting great temps with the Heatkiller IV Nickel CPU block + Titan Xp block. For some reason, my GPU temp is under ambient?! I'm not sure how that's possible, but that's pretty awesome when idling. I have a 120mm fan running at 1000 rpm pointed towards the GPU's backplate VRM area.

Gaming loads see the GPU raise to 25~27 degrees, synthetic benching I would say around 30~35 degrees.


----------



## Madmaxneo

chibi said:


> My bench build is getting great temps with the Heatkiller IV Nickel CPU block + Titan Xp block. For some reason, my GPU temp is under ambient?! I'm not sure how that's possible, but that's pretty awesome when idling. I have a 120mm fan running at 1000 rpm pointed towards the GPU's backplate VRM area.
> 
> Gaming loads see the GPU raise to 25~27 degrees, synthetic benching I would say around 30~35 degrees.


My GPU runs about least 10 degs less than my CPU on average (if not more). My CPU temps have climbed much higher recently due to the hotter temps in the last week here in Indiana, just last week it was in the 30's and now it is in the 70's (80's the last 3 days)...lol. 
Regardless my GPU tends to stay about 28 deg Cel no matter what. But it never goes above 50 deg celcius under max load with my Heatkiller IV pro block that is paired with my Swiftech H140-X. My CPU temps get no higher than the low 60's under full load on a stress test/benchmark run.... That is off of my Swiftech H240-X paired with a Heatkiller IV Pro Clean block.

EDIT: Ooops My home temps are in fahrenheit and my PC temps are in celcius...LOL


----------



## chibi

I'm so glad I switched over from other vendor blocks and went all Watercool this time around. Awesome products with great performance and aesthetics! :thumb:


----------



## TheArkratos

I really want to say thank you to Jakob and the heatkiller team for having such a simple and good implementation for RGB lighting on the threadripper block. And a second thank you for getting me a non-anodized piece so I could get it anodized gold.









I know it's not the best picture as I haven't set up the Corsair fan's RGB yet, but I was just blown away by how good that block looks.

(Build is "King Ghidorah")


----------



## MNMadman

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We will obviously send some samples to reputable review sites who will test the rads through a wide range of rpms, no doubt, so you will all have a good comparison to work with


I'd be glad to use *Heatripper Threadkiller* to compare the MO-RA3 I have to the new rads. Blast them with a loop that includes a heavily-overclocked 1950X and hot-running VRMs plus an overclocked Titan Xp (pulls 660W from the wall while running RealBench v2.56 stress test). I've even got quick disconnects to make the changeover easy.

Just ship me three samples of the L360s and I'll get you a good real-world temp comparison.

*1080mm Rad Space Showdown* :thumb:


----------



## Paprika

MNMadman said:


> I'd be glad to use *Heatripper Threadkiller* to compare the MO-RA3 I have to the new rads. Blast them with a loop that includes a heavily-overclocked 1950X and hot-running VRMs plus an overclocked Titan Xp (pulls 660W from the wall while running RealBench v2.56 stress test). I've even got quick disconnects to make the changeover easy.
> 
> Just ship me three samples of the L360s and I'll get you a good real-world temp comparison.
> 
> *1080mm Rad Space Showdown* :thumb:


In that case I'd need about 6 L420s!


----------



## Jameswalt1

chibi said:


> My bench build is getting great temps with the Heatkiller IV Nickel CPU block + Titan Xp block. For some reason, my GPU temp is under ambient?! I'm not sure how that's possible, but that's pretty awesome when idling. I have a 120mm fan running at 1000 rpm pointed towards the GPU's backplate VRM area.
> 
> Gaming loads see the GPU raise to 25~27 degrees, synthetic benching I would say around 30~35 degrees.


That bench is sick dude... Love it! Heatkiller <3


----------



## Archea47

VEGA


----------



## Jameswalt1

Archea47 said:


> VEGA
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I was 90% going with the stainless steel on my new build, but now I’m 100%. Those look amazing


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Hey Jakob,
> 
> Would you be able to provide the spacing between holes for the Heatkiller Tube stand? I am planning on mounting it on top of a 120mm fan bracket as I can't find the tube brackets + 120mm fan adapters anywhere in the US.


I'm not entirely sure what exactly you need. Does this sketch solve your question?
Second: Performance PCs just placed a massive order, including all kinds of Tube accessories, so they will have all sorts of brackets available by ~June.
Third: It seems as if radiators in the bottom of the case become increasingly popular with case designers. Hence, we received a lot of requests for a mounting option to install a Tube res vertically on a laying, horizontal rad. We decided to add another mounting option for the tube reservoirs:









This all stainless steel, black powdercoated, wsith integrated vibration dampeners. There will be two versions, for 120mm and 140mm fans/rads. And it will of course be compatible with all three tube versions (D5, DDC, standalone).



chibi said:


> My bench build is getting great temps with the Heatkiller IV Nickel CPU block + Titan Xp block. For some reason, my GPU temp is under ambient?! I'm not sure how that's possible, but that's pretty awesome when idling. I have a 120mm fan running at 1000 rpm pointed towards the GPU's backplate VRM area.
> 
> Gaming loads see the GPU raise to 25~27 degrees, synthetic benching I would say around 30~35 degrees.





chibi said:


> I'm so glad I switched over from other vendor blocks and went all Watercool this time around. Awesome products with great performance and aesthetics! :thumb:





TheArkratos said:


> I really want to say thank you to Jakob and the heatkiller team for having such a simple and good implementation for RGB lighting on the threadripper block. And a second thank you for getting me a non-anodized piece so I could get it anodized gold.





Archea47 said:


> VEGA
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Thanks you guys for all the positive feedback, we highly appreciate it! And thanks for sharing pics of your builds, I always enjoy seeing what you guys make out of our products!



MNMadman said:


> I'd be glad to use *Heatripper Threadkiller* to compare the MO-RA3 I have to the new rads. Blast them with a loop that includes a heavily-overclocked 1950X and hot-running VRMs plus an overclocked Titan Xp (pulls 660W from the wall while running RealBench v2.56 stress test). I've even got quick disconnects to make the changeover easy.
> 
> Just ship me three samples of the L360s and I'll get you a good real-world temp comparison.
> 
> *1080mm Rad Space Showdown* :thumb:


Nice idea! I'll give it a thought.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I'm not entirely sure what exactly you need. Does this sketch solve your question?
> Second: Performance PCs just placed a massive order, including all kinds of Tube accessories, so they will have all sorts of brackets available by ~June.
> Third: It seems as if radiators in the bottom of the case become increasingly popular with case designers. Hence, we received a lot of requests for a mounting option to install a Tube res vertically on a laying, horizontal rad. We decided to add another mounting option for the tube reservoirs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This all stainless steel, black powdercoated, wsith integrated vibration dampeners. There will be two versions, for 120mm and 140mm fans/rads. And it will of course be compatible with all three tube versions (D5, DDC, standalone).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks you guys for all the positive feedback, we highly appreciate it! And thanks for sharing pics of your builds, I always enjoy seeing what you guys make out of our products!
> 
> 
> Nice idea! I'll give it a thought.


I ended up buying a used res with a stand and rad bracket from someone else as I didn't want to wait until June to get the parts. But yes, that is the type of bracket I was looking for! I think I'll be okay with mounting it on the side, but it's good to have options now!


----------



## Abaidor

Jakob

Would you consider making an air filter for the MO-RA radiators? How are we supposed to handle dust built-up?


----------



## Dotachin

Abaidor said:


> Jakob
> 
> Would you consider making an air filter for the MO-RA radiators? How are we supposed to handle dust built-up?


I ordered a custom filter from
https://www.demcifilter.com/

1 x DEMCiflex Filter Ferrous Black/Black O/D 380mm x 380mm (I/D 350mm x 350mm) @ USD 25.14 each (like 2 years ago)

Fits my MORA 360 like a glove.


----------



## Abaidor

Dotachin said:


> I ordered a custom filter from
> https://www.demcifilter.com/
> 
> 1 x DEMCiflex Filter Ferrous Black/Black O/D 380mm x 380mm (I/D 350mm x 350mm) @ USD 25.14 each (like 2 years ago)
> 
> Fits my MORA 360 like a glove.


Thanks! I think I will go for it but for the MORA 420 instead.


----------



## emsj86

Pictures


----------



## Jameswalt1

emsj86 said:


> Pictures


Res looks amazing, easily the best looking res on the market by a mile. Too bad your blocks aren't Heatkiller IV's though  

Just messing  Seriously build looks great!


----------



## Archea47

Heatkiller TR4 style! I ordered direct from Watercool. Quick shipping to USA but most importantly Thank you for taking my request and shipping the acrylic HK4 with a non-standard copper base. Love it


----------



## MNMadman

Archea47 said:


> Heatkiller TR4 style! I ordered direct from Watercool. Quick shipping to USA but most importantly Thank you for taking my request and shipping the acrylic HK4 with a non-standard copper base. Love it


Yep yep. It's great that they're willing to do custom orders like that. They've also done the TR4 block with a non-anodized aluminum top plate so the customer could get it anodized in a gold color somewhere else.

The awesome experience I had building *Heatripper Threadkiller* earlier this year made Watercool my new favorite liquid cooling equipment manufacturer/supplier. I ordered directly from them as well.


----------



## chibi

Most definitely, I'm going to delay my next build in anticipation of their new radiator line up!


----------



## Archea47

My only complaint is that the mosfet/vrm cooler and CPU coolers are different heights. Have to out 2 extenders on the VRM block one on the CPU to make them line up


----------



## Barefooter

Archea47 said:


> My only complaint is that the mosfet/*vrm cooler and CPU coolers are different heights*. Have to out 2 extenders on the VRM block one on the CPU to make them line up


I just realized this recently. I have lots of fittings and can't come up with a good way to connect the VRM to the CPU block with just fittings and a short tube. I'm going to have to bend a tube to make it work for my set-up.

I was thinking the same thing... if only the VRM block was a little taller they would line up perfectly.


----------



## Archea47

Barefooter said:


> I just realized this recently. I have lots of fittings and can't come up with a good way to connect the VRM to the CPU block with just fittings and a short tube. I'm going to have to bend a tube to make it work for my set-up.
> 
> I was thinking the same thing... if only the VRM block was a little taller they would line up perfectly.


I'm doing 20mm and 14mm extensions (bitspower). Looks real close

Edit: also, did you put a fan within the IO side so that the sound card chip still gets cooling? Otherwise it's encased in plastic. I'm reusing the original 40mm fan removed from the stock VRM heatsink, hot glued to the inside of the IO cover


----------



## Paprika

My idea for it:


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Paprika said:


> My idea for it:


How are you guys making these awesome models???


----------



## Archea47

Paprika said:


> My idea for it:


Where do you get the 6mm height change there though?


----------



## Paprika

SlvrDragon50 said:


> How are you guys making these awesome models???


I just use sketchup. Very basic, but easy to give a visual representation for what I need to do.





Archea47 said:


> Where do you get the 6mm height change there though?


I account for height differences etc when I build it, cba to fuss with variables I don't have readily available.


----------



## Barefooter

Archea47 said:


> I'm doing 20mm and 14mm extensions (bitspower). Looks real close
> 
> Edit: also, did you put a fan within the IO side so that the sound card chip still gets cooling? Otherwise it's encased in plastic. I'm reusing the original 40mm fan removed from the stock VRM heatsink, hot glued to the inside of the IO cover


I measured my height difference is a little more than 2mm, so there is no way to use extensions to even it out. I'm just glad that they actually made a VRM block for my board! I'll bend a tube and make it work 

I don't have a 40mm fan on the motherboard. Using an Asus Rampage VI Extreme.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Abaidor said:


> Jakob
> 
> Would you consider making an air filter for the MO-RA radiators? How are we supposed to handle dust built-up?


I put it on the To-Do for possible future revisions. Thanks for the input!



emsj86 said:


> Pictures


Thanks for sharing. It IS a nice looking build, though I'll have to agree with James, there could be better-looking blocks in there 



Archea47 said:


> Heatkiller TR4 style! I ordered direct from Watercool. Quick shipping to USA but most importantly Thank you for taking my request and shipping the acrylic HK4 with a non-standard copper base. Love it


That's the benefit of being a small company AND producing and assembling everything in-house: we don't have to send a request to China to make small modifications like this - we just do everything ourselves!



chibi said:


> Most definitely, I'm going to delay my next build in anticipation of their new radiator line up!


Did I tell you guys the current ETA? At the moment, everything still looks like a release in the first week of July. Maybe, I'll even pair that with a 4thofJuly discount... Hm....That could be interesting....:thinking: 



Archea47 said:


> My only complaint is that the mosfet/vrm cooler and CPU coolers are different heights. Have to out 2 extenders on the VRM block one on the CPU to make them line up


HU! We never even realized that. Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I'll talk to the designer about it, maybe we'll be able to get rid of that difference.


----------



## khemist




----------



## iamjanco

@khemist as usual, beautiful work :thumb:

I do like those Barrow flowmeters, thanks for sharing


----------



## SHNS0

I got a Heatkiller tube last month and boy it's so good. It's crazy expensive but was worth it.

Also ditched a Bykski cpu waterblock for a HK IV Pro


----------



## Juris

Just looking for some info on the Watercool Tube RGB strips. Is there anywhere apart from the Watercool.de shop that stocks the RGB strips in Europe. They seem to only be available directly from WC. 

Also wondering if they can be inserted and removed through the strut holes when the res is full and the system running. Trying to get my Paean build completed asap and the LED may be something I need to add at a later stage but would prefer not to have to drain the loop (its a nightmare on this build).

Just a thought if Jakob is watching I was thinking of a possible different solution to routing the strip wiring. As I'm using the 4 bare aluminium led struts the black cabling coming from the front 2 slots will be noticeable trailing down the front left and right of the D5 Tube (I'm OCD about cabling). Was thinking instead of the cabling coming through holes would it be possible to make little delrin cable channels that slot between the struts so the 4 pin wire can be routed towards the back of the res via them and out of sight. Of course it would obscure a tiny portion of the tube itself but imho it would look very clean. Just a thought. Cheers.


----------



## JasonMorris

Looks like a shop in the UK has them (https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/LED-Light-Strips_218.html) which I've bought from before and the service is pretty good.


----------



## Juris

JasonMorris said:


> Looks like a shop in the UK has them (https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cat/LED-Light-Strips_218.html) which I've bought from before and the service is pretty good.


Cheers. I've bought from WCUK before as well. Actually just waiting on them to restock some other bits before making an order with them. Sadly they seem to have all the Watercool strips apart from the S size RGB Tube strips. Aquatuning carry the smaller XS size but not the larger ones


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I put it on the To-Do for possible future revisions. Thanks for the input!


While you are at it make the filter easily removable so we don't have to unscrew the cover. Slide-in, slide-out type.

The current cover does not offer enough clearance for something like that but since I have two covers and will only use one (wall at the back) I might get down to modding it when I find the time. It needs more height + a laser cut slot and perhaps some kind of guidance for the filter to slide in.

If you offer a new cover with integrated removable filter I would certainly buy it in a heartbeat.

On the bright side my 9X ML140 Pros spin so slow right now (even turn off) that dust might not be such a huge issue after all. But I have not overclocked yet (i9-7940X) and have not added the 1080Ti GPU block to the loop yet. Honestly, I enjoy such a high degree of silence right now that I don't really know if I want to overclok anytime soon, LOL!


----------



## fx3861

Just asking if anyone ever used a uv led strip on the heatkiller reservoir. Which sort of brand would be best. Will Watercool be making a uv strip for the reservoir anytime soon?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

khemist said:


> Spoiler


Beautiful system, mate! I especially like the unnecessary 180 from the GPU to the res. Just a little playful detail there. Thanks for sharing!



Juris said:


> Just looking for some info on the Watercool Tube RGB strips. Is there anywhere apart from the Watercool.de shop that stocks the RGB strips in Europe. They seem to only be available directly from WC.
> 
> Also wondering if they can be inserted and removed through the strut holes when the res is full and the system running. Trying to get my Paean build completed asap and the LED may be something I need to add at a later stage but would prefer not to have to drain the loop (its a nightmare on this build).
> 
> Just a thought if Jakob is watching I was thinking of a possible different solution to routing the strip wiring. As I'm using the 4 bare aluminium led struts the black cabling coming from the front 2 slots will be noticeable trailing down the front left and right of the D5 Tube (I'm OCD about cabling). Was thinking instead of the cabling coming through holes would it be possible to make little delrin cable channels that slot between the struts so the 4 pin wire can be routed towards the back of the res via them and out of sight. Of course it would obscure a tiny portion of the tube itself but imho it would look very clean. Just a thought. Cheers.


Availability: not many resellers stocked these after all, so it might be hard to find someone who does.
Insertion: No, you cannot insert them when the res is assembled. The strip will most likely kink and bend and not illuminate evenly. 
Cabling: Well, we intended for there only to be one strut used with a LED strip. In our experience, this is bright enough for most scenarios. We would definitely advise against using four LED struts for this very problem: the cablers will be shown to the front, which doesn't look good. So we do not plan to change the general Tube base for this very specific and rare use case scenario. 



Abaidor said:


> While you are at it make the filter easily removable so we don't have to unscrew the cover. Slide-in, slide-out type.
> [...]
> On the bright side my 9X ML140 Pros spin so slow right now (even turn off) that dust might not be such a huge issue after all. But I have not overclocked yet (i9-7940X) and have not added the 1080Ti GPU block to the loop yet. Honestly, I enjoy such a high degree of silence right now that I don't really know if I want to overclok anytime soon, LOL!


Great idea to make dust filter slideable. We'll look into it for a possible future revision. Thanks for the input!
My general experience is that the MO-RA offers so much cooling overhead that it won't even matter that much if your CPU is overclocked. If you reach 26°C water temp right now, >I suppose you would end somewhere in the low 30s water temp if you wouldn't even change your fan speed at all  



fx3861 said:


> Just asking if anyone ever used a uv led strip on the heatkiller reservoir. Which sort of brand would be best. Will Watercool be making a uv strip for the reservoir anytime soon?


We do not plan to make UV LED strips currently. 
If you want to make your own strips, be aware that they can only be 8mm wide max to fit into the strut. That's actually why we didn't have RGB strips in the beginning: the technology for RGB strips was too big for 8mm strips, they were all 10 or even 12mm wide. We are pretty happy that we were able to source a manufacturer that can produce on 8mm with decent quality in the meantime.


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We do not plan to make UV LED strips currently.
> If you want to make your own strips, be aware that they can only be 8mm wide max to fit into the strut. That's actually why we didn't have RGB strips in the beginning: the technology for RGB strips was too big for 8mm strips, they were all 10 or even 12mm wide. We are pretty happy that we were able to source a manufacturer that can produce on 8mm with decent quality in the meantime.


Any chance you'll be releasing addressable ones? More and more motherboards are adding headers for ADD-strips in these days.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We do not plan to make UV LED strips currently.
> If you want to make your own strips, be aware that they can only be 8mm wide max to fit into the strut. That's actually why we didn't have RGB strips in the beginning: the technology for RGB strips was too big for 8mm strips, they were all 10 or even 12mm wide. We are pretty happy that we were able to source a manufacturer that can produce on 8mm with decent quality in the meantime.


One thing you may want to consider, if the LED strip channel was just a little bit wider and deeper (~.5mm) and a bit taller (fit 5 inch strips with room for stiff cables), you could probably fit Darkside strips. I tried to squeeze one (UV) in there and the LEDs were touch the glass and the cable was very bent, but it did "kinda" go in. IDK about other manufacturers (Cablemod is pretty wide), but Darkside should work with the existing strut size.

Also, really excited for the new rads. I'm going to try to make my next build all German parts (ok, maybe 90%... not a fan of Alphacool fittings/products). Rads have kinda been the last piece of that puzzle.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Jakob, can I use only one of the 120mm brackets to mounting my D5 res? Have issues with only two pairs of 120mm mounts (right next to each other on two fans) being accessible in mounting my res. The brackets seems pretty beefy so I imagine it should be okay, but I just wanted to confirm.


----------



## Alxz

Just finished my PC-O6s build, heavily inspired by BornEvil and Aphrenedge builds.

Should I use a colored coolant? I'm thinking of a pastel color but not sure.


----------



## Jakerz

Looks great dude! I'm about to start on my PC-06s build hopefully within the week, the polished tubing and chrome fittings look sick with the black Anodizing!

I think a pastel purple or something would look killer!

Jake


----------



## MNMadman

Alxz said:


> Just finished my PC-O6s build, heavily inspired by BornEvil and Aphrenedge builds.
> 
> Should I use a colored coolant? I'm thinking of a pastel color but not sure.


If that were my system, I'd use a clear coolant. She's beautiful just the way she is.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Alxz said:


> Just finished my PC-O6s build, heavily inspired by BornEvil and Aphrenedge builds.
> 
> Should I use a colored coolant? I'm thinking of a pastel color but not sure.


Why not UV instead with a few UV lights here and there? I am not sure what color because that nice black and silver theme already looks pretty sweet, but the right color would make it pop more.


----------



## Jakerz

Madmaxneo said:


> Why not UV instead with a few UV lights here and there? I am not sure what color because that nice black and silver theme already looks pretty sweet, but the right color would make it pop more.


Hmm, now that you said that, what about Mayhems Pastel Black? that'd be pretty sweet looking!

Jake


----------



## Madmaxneo

Jakerz said:


> Hmm, now that you said that, what about Mayhems Pastel Black? that'd be pretty sweet looking!
> 
> Jake


I had no idea they had a black pastel, but that sounds very interesting. TBH I'm not a really great fan of the pastels because they usually require more maintenance that either the clear or the less thick fluids.


----------



## MNMadman

Black would look good, as would white. The problem is that there just isn't enough display area for the colored coolant.


----------



## MNMadman

@Watercool-Jakob

Your earlier comment about passive cooling with two MO-RA3 radiators got me curious. I did a little experiment with trying to run *Heatripper Threadkiller* with just the MO-RA3 cooling passively (fans turned off).

Tried fixed 4.040GHz (40 x 101) 16C/32T with 1.35000v fixed Vcore.
Tried fixed 3.939GHz (39 x 101) 16C/32T with 1.21250v fixed Vcore.
Tried fixed 4.141GHz (41 x 101) 16C/16T with 1.36875v fixed Vcore (my everyday OC).

The CPU and GPU could handle the temps, but the coolant got up to 49C while gaming and that's too close to the loop component failure temp for comfort. So it looks like you were right ... two MO-RA3 radiators are needed for passive cooling an overclocked Threadripper plus VRM and GPU.


----------



## Mad Monk

Hi All,

Infrequent poster long time lurker here.

I have a very slow motion build just starting. For slow motion, read maybe the end of this year to mid next before I buy the MB, CPU, RAM, and other goodness.

I am drooling over, err evaluating the Heatkiller products on their web page. Suffice it to say I'm a tad overwhelmed.

Proposed / desired components are: Asus WS X299 Sage; Intel i9 7900X (subject to change); dual 420mm rads in the top, dual 280mm rads in the basement, dual D5 PWM pumps; one (to start) 1080ti (maybe Voltas by then); and, some SSD goodness on the Mobo. May go dual loop.

I am asking for ideas and recommendations for cooling the CPU, GPU, Mobo, and maybe the SSDs? Ambient temps in the summer are over 32 C with high humidity. I consider overclocking an upgrade path but will play a bit once it is built.

Recommendations and thoughts sure would be appreciated.

Cheers,

MM


----------



## MNMadman

Mad Monk said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Infrequent poster long time lurker here.
> 
> I have a very slow motion build just starting. For slow motion, read maybe the end of this year to mid next before I buy the MB, CPU, RAM, and other goodness.
> 
> I am drooling over, err evaluating the Heatkiller products on their web page. Suffice it to say I'm a tad overwhelmed.
> 
> Proposed / desired components are: Asus WS X299 Sage; Intel i9 7900X (subject to change); dual 420mm rads in the top, dual 280mm rads in the basement, dual D5 PWM pumps; one (to start) 1080ti (maybe Voltas by then); and, some SSD goodness on the Mobo. May go dual loop.
> 
> I am asking for ideas and recommendations for cooling the CPU, GPU, Mobo, and maybe the SSDs? Ambient temps in the summer are over 32 C with high humidity. I consider overclocking an upgrade path but will play a bit once it is built.
> 
> Recommendations and thoughts sure would be appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> MM


Simple.

Watercool Heatkiller IV GPU block.
Watercool Heatkiller IV CPU block.
The Sage's VRM cooling is good all by itself as long as you have some airflow over the heat sinks.
EKWB EK-M.2 heat sinks.
By the time you buy, the new Watercool radiators should be available in most common sizes.

I built a system with mostly Watercool loop equipment a couple of months ago (see build log link in my sig), and I'm very impressed with the products and service. They are my new favorite.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> Any chance you'll be releasing addressable ones? More and more motherboards are adding headers for ADD-strips in these days.


Yup. We are currently working on those, too. We have a bunch of samples from different suppliers in the shop and our electrics guy is testing compatibilitys, while developing our own controller, too. So....Yes, we will release some. But no timetable yet. 




paskowitz said:


> One thing you may want to consider, if the LED strip channel was just a little bit wider and deeper (~.5mm) and a bit taller (fit 5 inch strips with room for stiff cables), you could probably fit Darkside strips. I tried to squeeze one (UV) in there and the LEDs were touch the glass and the cable was very bent, but it did "kinda" go in. IDK about other manufacturers (Cablemod is pretty wide), but Darkside should work with the existing strut size.


The struts are 10mm, the LED cutout is 8mm. So it's only 1mm left on both sides. We currently do not want to cut away more from the sides.




SlvrDragon50 said:


> Jakob, can I use only one of the 120mm brackets to mounting my D5 res? Have issues with only two pairs of 120mm mounts (right next to each other on two fans) being accessible in mounting my res. The brackets seems pretty beefy so I imagine it should be okay, but I just wanted to confirm.


We'd strongly suggest against that. We advise to use both mounting positions, and have them at least 5cm apart from each other. A filled tube res gan develop a lot of torque if it's monted to only one basic mount. We could not guarantee that this will not significantly wear your fan/rad. 




Alxz said:


> Just finished my PC-O6s build, heavily inspired by BornEvil and Aphrenedge builds.
> 
> Should I use a colored coolant? I'm thinking of a pastel color but not sure.


Wow, I love it (as already displayed on twitter and instagram)! Thanks for sharing, it's a great piece!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We'd strongly suggest against that. We advise to use both mounting positions, and have them at least 5cm apart from each other. A filled tube res gan develop a lot of torque if it's monted to only one basic mount. We could not guarantee that this will not significantly wear your fan/rad.


Dang, is there any chance an offset type mount could be made?

Just not possible to have mounting points that far apart in my case.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Dang, is there any chance an offset type mount could be made?
> 
> Just not possible to have mounting points that far apart in my case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Ha, I commented on this build on Reddit this morning, didn't I?  Funny how the same people pop up in different places 


Judging by the looks, this seems to work fine. It's not ideal, and it might be slightly less than 5cm, but it looks okay. You really just should try to get some space between the two mounting spots, so the torque is evened out a little bit. Your improvised solution looks okay to us. Kudos for the out-of-the-box thinking!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Ha, I commented on this build on Reddit this morning, didn't I?  Funny how the same people pop up in different places
> 
> 
> Judging by the looks, this seems to work fine. It's not ideal, and it might be slightly less than 5cm, but it looks okay. You really just should try to get some space between the two mounting spots, so the torque is evened out a little bit. Your improvised solution looks okay to us. Kudos for the out-of-the-box thinking!


Haha, yes you did. Reddit is nice for fast responses, but I trust the expertise here more  I had originally planned on having the thick rad up top so the res could be mounted on the middle bracket, but it didn't work out  

Thanks!


----------



## Mad Monk

*Thank you*

Thank you!

Off to check out how much I will need to save to apply this intel. The info about VRM cooling is appreciated. I like, but am not married to, the SR2 rads so I'll be checking out these also. The insight about M.2 coolers surprised me. very cool and thanks.

My game plan is dual 420mm rads up top and dual 280mm rads in the basement. Still not sure about a single or dual loops. Dual D5 pumps for peace of mind.

Cheers,

MM




MNMadman said:


> Simple.
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller IV GPU block.
> Watercool Heatkiller IV CPU block.
> The Sage's VRM cooling is good all by itself as long as you have some airflow over the heat sinks.
> EKWB EK-M.2 heat sinks.
> By the time you buy, the new Watercool radiators should be available in most common sizes.
> 
> I built a system with mostly Watercool loop equipment a couple of months ago (see build log link in my sig), and I'm very impressed with the products and service. They are my new favorite.


----------



## Petehmb

Hi all, I was told I should post this hear for more eyes on the issue...

Basically, I've had my build for less than a year now and have been mostly very happy with it. However, I noticed some air was starting to creep into the system (from just evaporation looks like, others have posted how they lose about 1/2 - 1" of liquid in their reservoir per year) and so I decided to re-do my loop. Upon taking it apart, I noticed a few things:

1. GPU block had some discoloration and residue from something
2. Gunk in my quick-release fittings
3. Discolored tubing

I used plain distilled water w/ some PT Nuke for the original fill, flush, and running for the last 7-8 months. I used "Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing" from FrozenCPU both the first time and for this last weekend's rebuild. Fittings are mostly Swiftech with a couple XSPC adaptors. Radiator is a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240, GPU block is a Heatkiller IV, CPU block is the Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump / cpu block combo. 

Please see pics below. Trying to figure out if this is normal or not for the Heatkiller GPU block - there're some mixed opinions in the thread I started on it. Thanks.



















Note: in this 2nd pic of the gunk, the first fitting looked identical before I "popped" the little plastic blisters with the Q-tip. There's water/coolant trapped in there and it squirted out like a popped pimple when I was trying to just scrape it out with the Q-tip. Obviously not good, but how does that happen? I thought I was being pretty careful with the plasticizer free tubing and whatnot. When I initially put the loop together there were mixed opinions on anti-corrosives, coolant, etc so I tried to keep it as simple and clean as possible.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Did you use PT Nuke or Nuke PHN (aka, copper sulfate or benzalkonium chloride)?


----------



## Petehmb

PT Nuke. Linked in the other thread, copying it over here.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EGYJ54?tag=vs-tech-convert-amazon-20


----------



## DaaQ

Petehmb said:


> Hi all, I was told I should post this hear for more eyes on the issue...
> 
> Basically, I've had my build for less than a year now and have been mostly very happy with it. However, I noticed some air was starting to creep into the system (from just evaporation looks like, others have posted how they lose about 1/2 - 1" of liquid in their reservoir per year) and so I decided to re-do my loop. Upon taking it apart, I noticed a few things:
> 
> 1. GPU block had some discoloration and residue from something
> 2. Gunk in my quick-release fittings
> 3. Discolored tubing
> 
> I used plain distilled water w/ some PT Nuke for the original fill, flush, and running for the last 7-8 months. I used "Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing" from FrozenCPU both the first time and for this last weekend's rebuild. Fittings are mostly Swiftech with a couple XSPC adaptors. Radiator is a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240, GPU block is a Heatkiller IV, CPU block is the Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump / cpu block combo.
> 
> Please see pics below. Trying to figure out if this is normal or not for the Heatkiller GPU block - there're some mixed opinions in the thread I started on it. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: in this 2nd pic of the gunk, the first fitting looked identical before I "popped" the little plastic blisters with the Q-tip. There's water/coolant trapped in there and it squirted out like a popped pimple when I was trying to just scrape it out with the Q-tip. Obviously not good, but how does that happen? I thought I was being pretty careful with the plasticizer free tubing and whatnot. When I initially put the loop together there were mixed opinions on anti-corrosives, coolant, etc so I tried to keep it as simple and clean as possible.


 @Watercool-Jakob other than your opinion, on the Heatkiller 4 block I think poster has concerns if it will void warranty to disassemble block, could you clarify?


----------



## MisterMusculo

Hi,

I own an old Crosshair V Formula-Z motherboard with fx 8350 cpu, which is currently @ 4.8ghz. I've had this system for quite some years, but I've recently decided to do a complete overhaul by adding a gpu to the loop, switch to solid tubing, a couple of rgb fans etc. But most importantly I wanted to throw in a motherboard block, because vrm and nb on that board tends to get extremely hot with higher voltages.

So I've bought a used and slightly modified heatkiller block from ebay (there was no block made exactly for Formula-z revision). Now the problem is the seller did not provide me with all the screws needed, also I haven't received a user manual. I have some troubles with correctly installing the block. So if anyone would know anything about this old block/still have a user manual or know which screws are needed, I would greatly appreciate that. 

Thanks!


----------



## Dotachin

@Petehmb
I've seen posts in the custom water club against using PT Nuke with nickel blocks. Idk if you asked there as well.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Petehmb said:


> PT Nuke. Linked in the other thread, copying it over here.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EGYJ54?tag=vs-tech-convert-amazon-20


PT Nuke reacts with nickel. You have to use PT Nuke PHN. Pretty sure disassembling the block doesn't void the warranty as cleaning is standard.


----------



## Abaidor

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Dang, is there any chance an offset type mount could be made?
> 
> Just not possible to have mounting points that far apart in my case.


My build is not 100% finished aesthetics wise but I am posting just to demonstrate a different way of mounting the Heatkiller Tube.
I still need to sleeve some cables and cover certain parts with plexi + adding hard tubes but I could not wait any longer without powering it up. 

I am using an L-Shaped metal strip screwed on each mounting bracket (in the middle) and the strip is screwed on the side of the 5.25" bays here. The case is a Cosmos 2 that I had sitting in its box unused.


----------



## Petehmb

SlvrDragon50 said:


> PT Nuke reacts with nickel. You have to use PT Nuke PHN. Pretty sure disassembling the block doesn't void the warranty as cleaning is standard.


Crap...I don't recall ever seeing anyone point that out before. Guess I'll order some of that then and flush / swap fluids ASAP.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Petehmb said:


> Crap...I don't recall ever seeing anyone point that out before. Guess I'll order some of that then and flush / swap fluids ASAP.


Yup. Don't worry though, it's only cosmetic. Will function 100%


----------



## DaaQ

MisterMusculo said:


> Hi,
> 
> I own an old Crosshair V Formula-Z motherboard with fx 8350 cpu, which is currently @ 4.8ghz. I've had this system for quite some years, but I've recently decided to do a complete overhaul by adding a gpu to the loop, switch to solid tubing, a couple of rgb fans etc. But most importantly I wanted to throw in a motherboard block, because vrm and nb on that board tends to get extremely hot with higher voltages.
> 
> So I've bought a used and slightly modified heatkiller block from ebay (there was no block made exactly for Formula-z revision). Now the problem is the seller did not provide me with all the screws needed, also I haven't received a user manual. I have some troubles with correctly installing the block. So if anyone would know anything about this old block/still have a user manual or know which screws are needed, I would greatly appreciate that.
> 
> Thanks!


Are you referring to the upper vrm block?

I believe I have the same setup as you, I modified the original block to fit the CVZ. I think I used a ziptie up top corner of vrm block. I'd have to get a picture.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Petehmb said:


> Hi all, I was told I should post this hear for more eyes on the issue...
> 
> Basically, I've had my build for less than a year now and have been mostly very happy with it. However, I noticed some air was starting to creep into the system (from just evaporation looks like, others have posted how they lose about 1/2 - 1" of liquid in their reservoir per year) and so I decided to re-do my loop. Upon taking it apart, I noticed a few things:
> 
> 1. GPU block had some discoloration and residue from something
> 2. Gunk in my quick-release fittings
> 3. Discolored tubing
> 
> I used plain distilled water w/ some PT Nuke for the original fill, flush, and running for the last 7-8 months. I used "Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing" from FrozenCPU both the first time and for this last weekend's rebuild. Fittings are mostly Swiftech with a couple XSPC adaptors. Radiator is a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 240, GPU block is a Heatkiller IV, CPU block is the Swiftech Apogee Drive II pump / cpu block combo.
> 
> Please see pics below. Trying to figure out if this is normal or not for the Heatkiller GPU block - there're some mixed opinions in the thread I started on it. Thanks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: in this 2nd pic of the gunk, the first fitting looked identical before I "popped" the little plastic blisters with the Q-tip. There's water/coolant trapped in there and it squirted out like a popped pimple when I was trying to just scrape it out with the Q-tip. Obviously not good, but how does that happen? I thought I was being pretty careful with the plasticizer free tubing and whatnot. When I initially put the loop together there were mixed opinions on anti-corrosives, coolant, etc so I tried to keep it as simple and clean as possible.


As already pointed out, the reason for this kind of corrosion is simply the PT Nuke. It basically is a copper salt, turning the whole fluid into a mild acid, which attacks nickel plating. Please drain and flush the loop. The block itself is safe to use, the discolorization will not effect it's cooling performance. But for future usage, we STRONGLY advise against ANY biocide additives - they all come with a lot of risks, and aren't that necessary, in our experience. We DO, however, recommend using a corrosion inhibitor. All major brands (EK Cryofuel, Innovatek protect and rebrands, Aquacomputer double protect, all major ready-to-use colored or opaque fluids) have biocidal abbilities integrated, rendering the risky biocide-only additives completey unneccessary. 




DaaQ said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* other than your opinion, on the Heatkiller 4 block I think poster has concerns if it will void warranty to disassemble block, could you clarify?


Of course you are allowed to open your block. But of course, we cannot guarantee for it being leakfree when you have done so. Warranty issues, like a mechanical defect in the product itself, will be covered nevertheless. But that occurs almost never...




MisterMusculo said:


> Hi,
> 
> I own an old Crosshair V Formula-Z motherboard with fx 8350 cpu, which is currently @ 4.8ghz. I've had this system for quite some years, but I've recently decided to do a complete overhaul by adding a gpu to the loop, switch to solid tubing, a couple of rgb fans etc. But most importantly I wanted to throw in a motherboard block, because vrm and nb on that board tends to get extremely hot with higher voltages.
> 
> So I've bought a used and slightly modified heatkiller block from ebay (there was no block made exactly for Formula-z revision). Now the problem is the seller did not provide me with all the screws needed, also I haven't received a user manual. I have some troubles with correctly installing the block. So if anyone would know anything about this old block/still have a user manual or know which screws are needed, I would greatly appreciate that.
> 
> Thanks!


As stated in our email conversation, but also for everyone else with a similar problem: there never was a dedicated manual for that kit, it shipped with the standard SW-X manual. And you will be sent the correct mounting material today, as discussed via email 




Abaidor said:


> I am using an L-Shaped metal strip screwed on each mounting bracket (in the middle) and the strip is screwed on the side of the 5.25" bays here. The case is a Cosmos 2 that I had sitting in its box unused.


I really like the creativity behin this mounting solution! Great idea to come up with those L-shapes!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah premix all the way ek cryofuel seems fine for me personally a lot easier than mixing...


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I really like the creativity behin this mounting solution! Great idea to come up with those L-shapes!


Once I finish with the Plexi pieces (lazer cutting) I will post more images. Nevertheless, the middle hole of your mounting brackets works like a charm and wide cut holes on the sides of the L-Shaped strip allows for adjustment on both sides (in-out / left-right).


----------



## MisterMusculo

DaaQ said:


> Are you referring to the upper vrm block?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I have the same setup as you, I modified the original block to fit the CVZ. I think I used a ziptie up top corner of vrm block. I'd have to get a picture.




Well first thanks for the reply, actually after putting some thought into it, I’ve decided to order an original screwset for that block from watercool. I’ve also ordered some other minor stuff like an XS bracket for the universal SB/NB block (based on my measuring it will be a better fit than the S sized bracket. 

I’m a bit worried about that back side of the motherboard vrm because there’s some chips too. Those chips were cooled by 2 very thin backplates (2mm) by default, which also served as a mounting mechanism for the default front heatsink. However I cannot just reuse those backplates because there are those thin standoffs protruding through the other side, and the waterblock has only 3 mounting holes, which would result in a strange uneven installation of the both the block and those vrm backplates. 

I was thinking about finding some very thin heatsinks (up to 4mm height and just put those on the back vrm’s). However that idea has a downside. There is only 6mm of clearance between my mobo and the case (measuring the mobo standoffs). I think that 4mm heatsinks would pass, but they would be touching the case if you know what I mean, that would happen just on the upper vrm’s but still. Should those heatsinks not be touching the chassis at any point? I’m not sure about this, I will provide a photo how this will look approximately.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MisterMusculo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> As stated in our email conversation, but also for everyone else with a similar problem: there never was a dedicated manual for that kit, it shipped with the standard SW-X manual. And you will be sent the correct mounting material today, as discussed via email




Hey thx for the reply of course, I wrote this post prior to receiving your answer via email, it is much appreciated. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juris

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Availability: not many resellers stocked these after all, so it might be hard to find someone who does.
> Insertion: No, you cannot insert them when the res is assembled. The strip will most likely kink and bend and not illuminate evenly.
> Cabling: Well, we intended for there only to be one strut used with a LED strip. In our experience, this is bright enough for most scenarios. We would definitely advise against using four LED struts for this very problem: the cablers will be shown to the front, which doesn't look good. So we do not plan to change the general Tube base for this very specific and rare use case scenario. /QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply and info Jakob (didn't spot it till now). As I'm building in a Raijintek Paean open bench/showcase where the glass is so darkly tinted somebody could be hiding behind it & you wouldn't know and there is no possibility of using roof or wall mount lighting as there is no roof or walls  I'll be using the Heatkiller Tube D5 as a lighting focal point in the build hence the overpowered 4 Led strips.
> 
> Like a little glowing temple on the cityscape. Yes its almost a religious experience.
> 
> Re the cabling I'll get my modding brain on with the help of some black and silver stray paint and acrylic inserts over the holes. Cheers.


----------



## Petehmb

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Yup. Don't worry though, it's only cosmetic. Will function 100%


Well that's a relief at least.


----------



## Petehmb

Watercool-Jakob said:


> As already pointed out, the reason for this kind of corrosion is simply the PT Nuke. It basically is a copper salt, turning the whole fluid into a mild acid, which attacks nickel plating. Please drain and flush the loop. The block itself is safe to use, the discolorization will not effect it's cooling performance. But for future usage, we STRONGLY advise against ANY biocide additives - they all come with a lot of risks, and aren't that necessary, in our experience. We DO, however, recommend using a corrosion inhibitor. All major brands (EK Cryofuel, Innovatek protect and rebrands, Aquacomputer double protect, all major ready-to-use colored or opaque fluids) have biocidal abbilities integrated, rendering the risky biocide-only additives completey unneccessary.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course you are allowed to open your block. But of course, we cannot guarantee for it being leakfree when you have done so. Warranty issues, like a mechanical defect in the product itself, will be covered nevertheless. But that occurs almost never...


Thanks for the reply! Any recommendations for a corrosion inhibitor? And just plain distilled water or alphacool then? 

As for opening the block and cleaning it - Do you have a PDF or something on doing that? Should be sufficient in this case I would think...or do you think this block looks bad enough to send back? I don't recall seeing anything saying "don't use biocide" (and in fact, just checked again, and there's nothing on the product page). It would have been nice to know straight from the horse's mouth so to speak rather than having to scour forums for opinions on whether or not to use it...

It's mounted in an Ncase M1 so the windowed part is facing downwards and not visible anyway but I AM concerned about the gunk in there.


----------



## Mad Monk

MNMadman,

Thank you for the reply.

Cheers,

MM


----------



## TheArkratos

Corsair started teasing my King Ghidorah build on social media. I still want to say thanks to the Heatkiller team for making such a beautiful block and helping me get one I could anodize to fit my needs.


----------



## MNMadman

Mad Monk said:


> MNMadman,
> 
> Thank you for the reply.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> MM


No problem. Feel free to post any other questions you might have and we'll get you the answers you need.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Petehmb said:


> Thanks for the reply! Any recommendations for a corrosion inhibitor? And just plain distilled water or alphacool then?
> 
> As for opening the block and cleaning it - Do you have a PDF or something on doing that? Should be sufficient in this case I would think...or do you think this block looks bad enough to send back? I don't recall seeing anything saying "don't use biocide" (and in fact, just checked again, and there's nothing on the product page). It would have been nice to know straight from the horse's mouth so to speak rather than having to scour forums for opinions on whether or not to use it...
> 
> It's mounted in an Ncase M1 so the windowed part is facing downwards and not visible anyway but I AM concerned about the gunk in there.


XT1, X1, EK Cryofuel.

Just open up the block and take pictures of disasssembly if you want. It's pretty striaghtforward.


----------



## gamefoo21

Proud owner of a Heatkiller R9 Fury X full cover block, back plate, and I even bought the single slot replacement port cover. I got the block in nickle and clear with the black surround to match the back plate. Made everything so heavy feeling but looks nice.

1) I have an issue though, the screws for the pci plate to port, are hitting the block, and it bent my card so the pcb twists enough to touch the back plate. I caught it before installing the card and powering it. I really hope I didn't toast my Fury X. I see the plexi cover is chamfered, to allow the screws to clear, but it needs another mm shaved to clear. Will I void my warranty if I file the plexi back?

2) I also have a question about the chipset block. I have a MSI 970 Gaming motherboard, and the southbridge cooler bugs me. MSI made the mounting holes so close together though, that the Heatkiller chipset cooler, comes close, but even fully restricted, it's mounting is about 2mm too wide. Is it possible to mod the bracket or get one made to allow for installation? Can it even be installed, or would making it able to get into the holes make it impossible to get at the hardware?

Thanks!


----------



## killer8297

I have a Heatkiller IV PRO Copper AN used for less than a year. I used distilled water for my loop and flushed it out once after 5 months. 

Recently I noticed shinny particles in my reservoir and that prompted me to investigate. I took my CPU block apart and was disappointed to find the nickle plating of the block top was flaking away. The base plate on the other hand seems to be perfectly fine.

The picture shows the area where the block is fading from. The golden areas seems to have more severe flaking.

I would like to know if I am able to continue using this waterblock and how I should proceed moving forward.

How can I prevent further degradation? I'm planning on using XT-1 Nuke in the future.

Will the faded areas corrode quicker compare to the area not affected?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

killer8297 said:


> I have a Heatkiller IV PRO Copper AN used for less than a year. I used distilled water for my loop and flushed it out once after 5 months.
> 
> Recently I noticed shinny particles in my reservoir and that prompted me to investigate. I took my CPU block apart and was disappointed to find the nickle plating of the block top was flaking away. The base plate on the other hand seems to be perfectly fine.
> 
> The picture shows the area where the block is fading from. The golden areas seems to have more severe flaking.
> 
> I would like to know if I am able to continue using this waterblock and how I should proceed moving forward.
> 
> How can I prevent further degradation? I'm planning on using XT-1 Nuke in the future.
> 
> Will the faded areas corrode quicker compare to the area not affected?


Did you add anything to the distilled water?


----------



## killer8297

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Did you add anything to the distilled water?


Plain distilled water


----------



## SlvrDragon50

killer8297 said:


> Plain distilled water


Hmm, not sure why it would corrode then. What else is in your loop? Any silver? XT-1 should prevent any future corrosion.


----------



## fx3861

killer8297 said:


> Plain distilled water


Plain DI water on its own can be quite corrosive if its been given time on its own,especially when in a water loop with 1 or more mixed metal components. It's acts a medium for ions of different metals in the loop to interact. Although it will definately will took a long time, judging from the looks of your block and the given time of interactions, i highly suspect there's some residues of acids or cleaners during the flushing process. Did you uses and vinergar solution or blitz products prior b4 the DI? Just my wild guess.


----------



## killer8297

fx3861 said:


> Plain DI water on its own can be quite corrosive if its been given time on its own,especially when in a water loop with 1 or more mixed metal components. It's acts a medium for ions of different metals in the loop to interact. Although it will definately will took a long time, judging from the looks of your block and the given time of interactions, i highly suspect there's some residues of acids or cleaners during the flushing process. Did you uses and vinergar solution or blitz products prior b4 the DI? Just my wild guess.


 The most acidic solution I have used with the CPU block is 99% alcohol when opening it up and cleaning it.


----------



## KnyghtFall

killer8297 said:


> The most acidic solution I have used with the CPU block is 99% alcohol when opening it up and cleaning it.


How'd you prepare your radiators beforehand?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Petehmb said:


> Thanks for the reply! Any recommendations for a corrosion inhibitor? And just plain distilled water or alphacool then?
> 
> As for opening the block and cleaning it - Do you have a PDF or something on doing that? Should be sufficient in this case I would think...or do you think this block looks bad enough to send back? I don't recall seeing anything saying "don't use biocide" (and in fact, just checked again, and there's nothing on the product page). It would have been nice to know straight from the horse's mouth so to speak rather than having to scour forums for opinions on whether or not to use it...


Disassembly: no, we do not have a guide on it. But it is not that complicated. The most important part is to take your time to seat the gaskets properly before screwing everything back together. Do not overtighten screws, and always screw in in a crosswise pattern.


About biocides: well, the community evolved. Back when we started, people were using open buckets as reservoirs, and tap water as a coolant. Biocides were absolutely mandatory back then. Nowadays, people clean their components, have closed loops, and use distilled water - bio-infestation does not happen under these circumstances. Additionally, there are always copper or brass components in the loop, releasing copper ions into the fluid over time, which function as a biocide themselves. So, our general recommendation policy changed over the years, but you are right to call us out on how that hasn't manifested in our manuals. We'll try to improve in that regard.
Additionally, we don't know EVERY and ANY product some company somewhere on the planet releases. So we cannot make official general statements. I'm sure there are some biocides that are okay to use. But we cannot guarantee on the products of other companies. So our general rule of thumb is: stay clear of biocides, use corrosion inhibitors instead - they usually cover both risks.




TheArkratos said:


> View attachment 201190
> 
> 
> Corsair started teasing my King Ghidorah build on social media. I still want to say thanks to the Heatkiller team for making such a beautiful block and helping me get one I could anodize to fit my needs.


That turned out BEAUTIFULLY! I wasn't even aware that this was a build for Corsair until it popped up in my feed  Congratulations, and thanks for choosing HEATKILLER products!




gamefoo21 said:


> Proud owner of a Heatkiller R9 Fury X full cover block, back plate, and I even bought the single slot replacement port cover. I got the block in nickle and clear with the black surround to match the back plate. Made everything so heavy feeling but looks nice.
> 
> 1) I have an issue though, the screws for the pci plate to port, are hitting the block, and it bent my card so the pcb twists enough to touch the back plate. I caught it before installing the card and powering it. I really hope I didn't toast my Fury X. I see the plexi cover is chamfered, to allow the screws to clear, but it needs another mm shaved to clear. Will I void my warranty if I file the plexi back?
> 
> 2) I also have a question about the chipset block. I have a MSI 970 Gaming motherboard, and the southbridge cooler bugs me. MSI made the mounting holes so close together though, that the Heatkiller chipset cooler, comes close, but even fully restricted, it's mounting is about 2mm too wide. Is it possible to mod the bracket or get one made to allow for installation? Can it even be installed, or would making it able to get into the holes make it impossible to get at the hardware?
> 
> Thanks!


About the Fury X: could you please send me some pics of the card and block and the collision to [email protected] ? This sounds very weird and hasn't happened before, to our knowledge. Maybe you used a wrong screw somewhere and we'll be able to identify it?
About the MB: are you aware of the replacement holding brackets for the SB block? It is compatible with a hole distance of 45,3-52,9 mm. Maybe that'll solve your problem?




killer8297 said:


> I have a Heatkiller IV PRO Copper AN used for less than a year. I used distilled water for my loop and flushed it out once after 5 months.
> 
> Recently I noticed shinny particles in my reservoir and that prompted me to investigate. I took my CPU block apart and was disappointed to find the nickle plating of the block top was flaking away. The base plate on the other hand seems to be perfectly fine.
> 
> The picture shows the area where the block is fading from. The golden areas seems to have more severe flaking.
> 
> I would like to know if I am able to continue using this waterblock and how I should proceed moving forward.
> 
> How can I prevent further degradation? I'm planning on using XT-1 Nuke in the future.
> 
> Will the faded areas corrode quicker compare to the area not affected?


Hm. Could you please send me your personal details (address, when and where you purchased the block) via mail to [email protected] ? We'll see how we can help you. any further.
Broadly speaking: this looks very similar to nickel corrosion we have seen in loops using silver components as a biocide (see above, too ), since silver is way higher on the electric chart, thus turning the nickel into the victim anode and corroding it away. Our general recommendation to avoid this is: do not use silver kill coils, especially not when using nickel plated components. Add corrosion inhibitors to your loop.


----------



## Paprika

The double MO-RA3 420 case has evolved slightly. Getting into the final stages and Parvum should be cutting it soon™.


----------



## iamjanco

Paprika said:


> The double MO-RA3 420 case has evolved slightly. Getting into the final stages and Parvum should be cutting it soon™.


Really great concept, nice work! Any idea how much Parvum's bill will be, roughly speaking?


----------



## Paprika

iamjanco said:


> Really great concept, nice work! Any idea how much Parvum's bill will be, roughly speaking?


That has been paid in full already. Give or take $1700 pre-VAT.


----------



## iamjanco

Paprika said:


> That has been paid in full already. Give or take $1700 pre-VAT.


Expensive, but the design is exquisite and quality comes with a price :thumb:


----------



## Paprika

iamjanco said:


> Expensive, but the design is exquisite and quality comes with a price :thumb:


Yeah we'll see. It's my own design from scratch, so they had to take it all apart and make it work.
Two distroplates etc etc, it adds to the cost quite drastically.

Fingers crossed it'll be worth the cost and loong wait.


----------



## Dotachin

@Watercool-Jakob

With the rumors on a 24/32-core threadripper 2 later this year, us poor x399 taichi owners are going to need a vrm solution. And we all know EK's one isn't up to the job...


----------



## muzammil84

first lot of Heatkiller beauties for Project Heavy Reign. This is special custom brushed version of Heatkiller IV block. I hope you all love it as much as I do.


----------



## MNMadman

Dotachin said:


> And we all know EK's one isn't up to the job...


I've got the new EK monoblock and it handles the 1950X pulling 400W+ and the hot VRMs with no issues. The whole system pulls up to 660W from the wall (Kill A Watt EZ meter) while fully loaded, so the system is pulling about 600W from the power supply. That makes it likely that HWiNFO64 is at least somewhat accurate as far as power draw.

Would a Watercool monoblock perform better? Probably. I was hoping they would make one. But from past posts by Jakob, they aren't likely to. They aren't likely to do a VRM-only block either.


----------



## Dotachin

MNMadman said:


> I've got the new EK monoblock and it handles the 1950X pulling 400W+ and the hot VRMs with no issues. The whole system pulls up to 660W from the wall (Kill A Watt EZ meter) while fully loaded, so the system is pulling about 600W from the power supply. That makes it likely that HWiNFO64 is at least somewhat accurate as far as power draw.
> 
> Would a Watercool monoblock perform better? Probably. I was hoping they would make one. But from past posts by Jakob, they aren't likely to. They aren't likely to do a VRM-only block either.


I thought EK had only updated the TR4 cpu block. Did they update the monoblocks as well?

edit: about the wattage, maybe I got my connectors max draw wrong in the other thread... can't trust the internet these days and I just googled it without checks.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Love brushed metal!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> The double MO-RA3 420 case has evolved slightly. Getting into the final stages and Parvum should be cutting it soon™.


WOW! Dude, that looks GORGEOUS! Can't WAIT to see your build in this! Please make a build log and leave a link here!




Dotachin said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> With the rumors on a 24/32-core threadripper 2 later this year, us poor x399 taichi owners are going to need a vrm solution. And we all know EK's one isn't up to the job...





MNMadman said:


> I've got the new EK monoblock and it handles the 1950X pulling 400W+ and the hot VRMs with no issues. The whole system pulls up to 660W from the wall (Kill A Watt EZ meter) while fully loaded, so the system is pulling about 600W from the power supply. That makes it likely that HWiNFO64 is at least somewhat accurate as far as power draw.
> 
> Would a Watercool monoblock perform better? Probably. I was hoping they would make one. But from past posts by Jakob, they aren't likely to. They aren't likely to do a VRM-only block either.


We will definitely not make a Monoblock - we trust our products, and want our customers to be able to keep their CPU block for ~10 years (heck, we even still support the HK3.0 with spare parts and upgrades for AM4 ALTHOUGH we released the HKIV). So we would be talking about a VRM only solution. As far as we know, the industry isn't settled yet if they'll release the X499 chipset with according new motherboards to come with the Threadripper2 CPUs. So we will not start supporting an X399 board right now, if chances are that it'll be obsolete in ~2 months. As soon as we get trustworthy information about this aspect, we'll reevaluate.
And yes, ASRock Taichi is the top of my list for additional motherboard support 




muzammil84 said:


> first lot of Heatkiller beauties for Project Heavy Reign. This is special custom brushed version of Heatkiller IV block. I hope you all love it as much as I do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Your pictures are great, as always! I'm glad you like the looks of it, we had to do quite a few test runs and ruined a bunch of the inlays until we were satisfied with the result  This build will look really cool!


----------



## HippoLOL

I'm in Australia where is best place to order 1 DDC Heatkiller Tube and 1 D5 Heatkiller tube?

Also, my D5 was was this EK Pump / Res combo. I can just take out the pump and use it in the heatkiller right?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump

Thanks


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Paprika said:
> 
> 
> 
> The double MO-RA3 420 case has evolved slightly. Getting into the final stages and Parvum should be cutting it soon™️.
> 
> 
> 
> WOW! Dude, that looks GORGEOUS! Can't WAIT to see your build in this! Please make a build log and leave a link here!
Click to expand...

For sure, that's the plan. It has come a long way from just being a big black box i made in sketchup as a meme for radiator space.. 

Heatkiller all over as well, with a dash of Thermaltake and barrow.


----------



## Bluebell

I've finally finished putting my rig under water. This is my first time so I know it's not perfect and there are some changes that I want to make when the time comes to perform some maintenance. For now though, it works and allows me to overclock both the cpu and gpu without hitting heat limits in normal use.


----------



## fx3861

Sorry but does anyone have the measurements for the screws needed for the multi-top? Misplaced mine somewhere...


----------



## Juris

fx3861 said:


> Sorry but does anyone have the measurements for the screws needed for the multi-top? Misplaced mine somewhere...


They are M4 20mm cap head.


----------



## pmc25

@ Jakob
Any updates on launch window for the new radiator range?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

HippoLOL said:


> I'm in Australia where is best place to order 1 DDC Heatkiller Tube and 1 D5 Heatkiller tube?
> 
> Also, my D5 was was this EK Pump / Res combo. I can just take out the pump and use it in the heatkiller right?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump
> 
> Thanks


You can keep the pump, that is correct. As for ordering... Please check our reseller list. I guess the closest to Australia would be TTory in Korea, but I have no idea about there general shipping fees. Maybe, Aquatuning would be best? You can, of course, always order directly from us, we ship to Australia for 39.95€, free shipping for orders over 400€. 




Bluebell said:


> I've finally finished putting my rig under water. This is my first time so I know it's not perfect and there are some changes that I want to make when the time comes to perform some maintenance. For now though, it works and allows me to overclock both the cpu and gpu without hitting heat limits in normal use.


Congratulations on getting your feet wet  




pmc25 said:


> @ Jakob
> Any updates on launch window for the new radiator range?



Nothing new. Still July/August.







In totally unrelated news - anybody up for some eyecandy? The faster you click, the longer you'll enjoy 


Spoiler















































































Yup, these are our HEATKILLER IV for TITAN V, which are available with stainless steel or black anodized front covers, and which come with integrated RGB glory.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nothing new. Still July/August.


I bought cheap radiators specifically so I can upgrade to yours when they come out! So hyped 



Watercool-Jakob said:


> (Snip)
> 
> Yup, these are our HEATKILLER IV for TITAN V, which are available with stainless steel or black anodized


DROOLS


----------



## Paprika

Hey Jakob, are the port locations the same for all your GPUs? You might've answered it before, but I can't recall.
Need to be 110% certain.


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## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> In totally unrelated news - anybody up for some eyecandy? The faster you click, the longer you'll enjoy
> 
> 
> Spoiler
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> 
> 
> Yup, these are our HEATKILLER IV for TITAN V, which are available with stainless steel or black anodized front covers, and which come with integrated RGB glory.


:drool: Beautiful blocks!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> Hey Jakob, are the port locations the same for all your GPUs? You might've answered it before, but I can't recall.
> Need to be 110% certain.


No, they are not. The GPU itself is placed differently on different cards. Since all water channel orientations are based on the perfect flow characteristics over the DIE, the terminal also is placed differently between different cards. 



The ports in relation to each other are all the same: 25mm apart.


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, they are not. The GPU itself is placed differently on different cards. Since all water channel orientations are based on the perfect flow characteristics over the DIE, the terminal also is placed differently between different cards.
> 
> 
> 
> The ports in relation to each other are all the same: 25mm apart.


Ah I see. Would you happen to have the port locations for your 1080ti block in relation to the pci bracket?


----------



## Jakerz

Paprika said:


> Ah I see. Would you happen to have the port locations for your 1080ti block in relation to the pci bracket?


I'm getting 95mm from the front of the PCI bracket to the center of the first hole on the 1080Ti block.

Jake


----------



## Paprika

Jakerz said:


> Paprika said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah I see. Would you happen to have the port locations for your 1080ti block in relation to the pci bracket?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting 95mm from the front of the PCI bracket to the center of the first hole on the 1080Ti block.
> 
> Jake
Click to expand...

I got the exact same measurement, so I guess that confirms it.


----------



## Streetdragon

i have a quetion like this.
I have a X99 system. CPU and GPU heatkiller blocks on it. GPU in the first PCI slot (asus rampage v extreme)
If i change to a 1151 system, can i just unplug the GPU from the board and the CPU cooler, slide the old board out, place the new board and set the CPU-block and gpu on the new board? Are the measurements between cpu socket and pcie plae the same?
Dont wanna build my loop apart because it works and im lazy^^


----------



## TheArkratos

Streetdragon said:


> i have a quetion like this.
> I have a X99 system. CPU and GPU heatkiller blocks on it. GPU in the first PCI slot (asus rampage v extreme)
> If i change to a 1151 system, can i just unplug the GPU from the board and the CPU cooler, slide the old board out, place the new board and set the CPU-block and gpu on the new board? Are the measurements between cpu socket and pcie plae the same?
> Dont wanna build my loop apart because it works and im lazy^^


That depends 100% on the motherboards. Not all motherboards, for a given series even, have the cpu in the same location.


----------



## BucketInABucket

So I took apart my Heatkiller IV Titan xP/1080ti model to clean the inside but now I'm not sure which screws go where. There are two short screws and the rest long...


----------



## khemist




----------



## Wally West

BucketInABucket said:


> So I took apart my Heatkiller IV Titan xP/1080ti model to clean the inside but now I'm not sure which screws go where. There are two short screws and the rest long...


The 2 shorts screw goes on you the back of the card (near the port)

Take a look at this (it will download the Instruction PDF):
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...scal_A5m.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3FyiDf-VGdTjSUEKtQuRMh


----------



## BucketInABucket

Wally West said:


> The 2 shorts screw goes on you the back of the card (near the port)
> 
> Take a look at this (it will download the Instruction PDF):
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...scal_A5m.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3FyiDf-VGdTjSUEKtQuRMh


I should've specified I mean the ones that seal the plexi to the copper baseplate.


----------



## lkramer

@Watercool-Jakob

Do you know when the backplate for the Titan V will be back in stock on your site?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

BucketInABucket said:


> So I took apart my Heatkiller IV Titan xP/1080ti model to clean the inside but now I'm not sure which screws go where. There are two short screws and the rest long...





BucketInABucket said:


> I should've specified I mean the ones that seal the plexi to the copper baseplate.


It becomes obvious if you check the backsite:








The two shorter screws are placed at the two red marked holes. They are short because they would protrude into the PCB components if they were the same length, since there are pockets milled out of the copper.




khemist said:


> Spoiler


Thanks for sharing! Beautiful pictures indeed!




lkramer said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Do you know when the backplate for the Titan V will be back in stock on your site?


Yes. It went back in stock yesterday


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It becomes obvious if you check the backsite:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two shorter screws are placed at the two red marked holes. They are short because they would protrude into the PCB components if they were the same length, since there are pockets milled out of the copper.


Got it, thanks Jacob! 

My 6700k actually died so I'm starting to think of getting the Heatkiller IV CPU block for AMD, since I'm considering a Ryzen 2700x for my replacement. Would it be possible to get the Acryl version, but have the metal plate be anodized black with white lettering like the GPU? (And possibly have it put on the other side of the block).

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18014


----------



## Aenra

Jakob this is probably superfluous (am sure you're aware of it), but in time, perhaps you guys could add a proper pic here? Instead of a diagram? Could help 

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30263
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30264


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

BucketInABucket said:


> My 6700k actually died so I'm starting to think of getting the Heatkiller IV CPU block for AMD, since I'm considering a Ryzen 2700x for my replacement. Would it be possible to get the Acryl version, but have the metal plate be anodized black with white lettering like the GPU? (And possibly have it put on the other side of the block).


Nope, that's not (easily) possible. The inlay is made from stainless steel, not from aluminum, so it can't be anodized in the same way as aluminum. We are currently working hard to bring the Copper AN color theme back. Once that is done, we can start working with the plating company on a way to achieve black chrome platings for stainless steel parts (black CPU block mounting brackets, anyone?). So, there MIGHT be a possibility in the future for a black inlay - but currently, it's not possible. Sorry...




Aenra said:


> Jakob this is probably superfluous (am sure you're aware of it), but in time, perhaps you guys could add a proper pic here? Instead of a diagram? Could help
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30263
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30264


Thanks for the reminder. Yes, those parts are at the photographer currently. We are waiting for the pics any day now. I'll ring him up again


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nope, that's not (easily) possible. The inlay is made from stainless steel, not from aluminum, so it can't be anodized in the same way as aluminum. We are currently working hard to bring the Copper AN color theme back. Once that is done, we can start working with the plating company on a way to achieve black chrome platings for stainless steel parts (black CPU block mounting brackets, anyone?). So, there MIGHT be a possibility in the future for a black inlay - but currently, it's not possible. Sorry...


No worries! Maybe I should go for silver parts instead...


----------



## chibi

July is coming, does that mean the rads are too?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

chibi said:


> July is coming, does that mean the rads are too?


Unfortunately: no, not quite yet. We weren't fully satisfied with them, so we push them back a little bit, so we can give you guys the best possible product. Current guesstimation: Beginning of Autumn.


----------



## chibi

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Unfortunately: no, not quite yet. We weren't fully satisfied with them, so we push them back a little bit, so we can give you guys the best possible product. Current guesstimation: Beginning of Autumn.


----------



## paskowitz

Personally, I'm fine with that. There isn't any new CPU/GPU hardware on the immediate horizon and I've quite frankly had enough of products being released before they are ready (thanks video game industry s/ ). 



IDK if you can answer this, but for the 50mm thick rads (and 60mm as well), do you think we'll be able to get away with just push or will push/pull be recommended (given 800-1200rpm range)?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

paskowitz said:


> IDK if you can answer this, but for the 50mm thick rads (and 60mm as well), do you think we'll be able to get away with just push or will push/pull be recommended (given 800-1200rpm range)?


It's a bit of a shot in the dark. Generally, we are fully aware that radiators do perform better in Push/Pull then Push only. But the root of our company and our overall general philosophy of the last 18 years is using watercooling to decrease the overall noise level. So we do feel that if your loop layout relies on the necessity to equip your radiator(s) in Push/Pull or the whole loop won't work out, your basic loop concept is flawed. We would always recommend more rad space instead of more fans on the same rad (that's, btw, the general backstory to the MO-RA...). So I would be EXTREMELY surprised if our engineers would develop a product that would NOT be optimized to run in a Push only config in the 600-1200 range.


Sorry if this is a bit vague, but the test scenarios with various fin densities and various fans are being done right now, so I don't know the final results as of yet.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's a bit of a shot in the dark. Generally, we are fully aware that radiators do perform better in Push/Pull then Push only. But the root of our company and our overall general philosophy of the last 18 years is using watercooling to decrease the overall noise level. So we do feel that if your loop layout relies on the necessity to equip your radiator(s) in Push/Pull or the whole loop won't work out, your basic loop concept is flawed. We would always recommend more rad space instead of more fans on the same rad (that's, btw, the general backstory to the MO-RA...). So I would be EXTREMELY surprised if our engineers would develop a product that would NOT be optimized to run in a Push only config in the 600-1200 range.
> 
> 
> Sorry if this is a bit vague, but the test scenarios with various fin densities and various fans are being done right now, so I don't know the final results as of yet.



Not vague at all. Perfect answer. I'm not worried about thermals just curious about product positioning. Certain rads (EK XE, HWL GTR) scale well with push/pull, while others (EK PE, HWL GTX) don't benefit as much, comparatively).


----------



## BucketInABucket

Hi Jakob, would it be possible to ask about a small order I made shipped via letter? It still hasn't arrived and I'm getting a little worried.


----------



## Aenra

paskowitz said:


> worried


My response, so ignore it if you wish 

- For one, you need always keep context in mind. Context in this instance being the representative having once described a 2000 RPM speed as "insane" (and that's an actual quote).
Now unless you're totally new to this all, the above alone provides you, or should, with some understanding. Not just in terms of what they're selling, but also in terms of their sense of judgement/criteria (or lack thereof).

- 'Generally speaking' is a dangerous path to take; so in practice? A tangible performance gain (ie resulting in an actual clock decrease) from push-pull comes only when it's applied to something like an EK-XE or a HW Nemesis GTR. While in theory yes, all do benefit, the gains are too minimal, whereas instead? The DBs go up around 3-5 (double the fans at same speed and makeup that's what you're looking at), the total fan power supply goes up (and 90% of the ""hubs"" out there are not equipped to handle that many fans), the fan controlling/safely powering becomes more complex; all for a benefit no one would write home about. 
A.k.a not worth it, unless, again, we're talking about 100% performance oriented rads. Not the kind of rads Watercool makes. He cannot tell you this outright for obvious reasons, but i can. Don't even bother.


----------



## paskowitz

I'm in this thread a quite a bit, but I don't have the time or memory to follow every post Jakob makes (I don't think that's reasonable). Also, IDK who you are replying to, me or Jakob? Either way, I asked a question and got a satisfactory answer.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

BucketInABucket said:


> Hi Jakob, would it be possible to ask about a small order I made shipped via letter? It still hasn't arrived and I'm getting a little worried.


Letter shipping is uninsured and comes without tracking information. The usual runtime as stated by the global post treaty is 4-10 business days, but we had some orders that seem to get stuck (or maybe lost...?) somewhere in the process between the different postal services and took up to 35 days once. If you can provide your order number, I'll try to see if I can get a better answer for you.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Letter shipping is uninsured and comes without tracking information. The usual runtime as stated by the global post treaty is 4-10 business days, but we had some orders that seem to get stuck (or maybe lost...?) somewhere in the process between the different postal services and took up to 35 days once. If you can provide your order number, I'll try to see if I can get a better answer for you.


Order number 9085 I believe. 🙂


----------



## LiquidHaus

It's great to see this thread almost at 300 pages! Bummer when I had only got into this thread on page 50 or whatever, it should have been page 20! lol.

Jakob I still owe you some stuff, I have not forgotten - work has completely taken over my life however. 

*gets on knees* "WE'RE NOT WORTHY, WE'RE NOT WORTHY!!"



also, someone was talking about no Threadripper motherboard support from Watercool?

They have VRM blocks for the Asus boards, which by the way, the Zenith Extreme is one of the only boards that'll handle Threadripper 2's TDP.

Here's mine:










Suffice to say - thanks to Watercool, I'm not worried about Threadripper 2's power demands.


----------



## MNMadman

lifeisshort117 said:


> It's great to see this thread almost at 300 pages! Bummer when I had only got into this thread on page 50 or whatever, it should have been page 20! lol.
> 
> Jakob I still owe you some stuff, I have not forgotten - work has completely taken over my life however.
> 
> *gets on knees* "WE'RE NOT WORTHY, WE'RE NOT WORTHY!!"
> 
> 
> 
> also, someone was talking about no Threadripper motherboard support from Watercool?
> 
> They have VRM blocks for the Asus boards, which by the way, the Zenith Extreme is one of the only boards that'll handle Threadripper 2's TDP.
> 
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suffice to say - thanks to Watercool, I'm not worried about Threadripper 2's power demands.


You _should_ be worried, if you're overclocking. On Auto/stock most Gen1 Threadripper boards will be able to handle a Gen2 CPU. But not when overclocked and fully loaded.

Have you seen this?






I was thinking the same way as you, before I saw that. Not so much, now. My overkill cooling can handle it, but my mainboard won't -- and it's got the same VRM as the Zenith Extreme.


----------



## iamjanco

This one is mostly for Jakob. It's the artwork for the proofed panel that I'll be mounting on my dual MO-RA3 setup. Should be going to the waterjet cutter very soon:

Full *screenshot of panel with asset tag* (linked image, uploads still borked at my end).

Also swapped out two of the Aquacomputer D5 pumps. Replaced those with Watercool pumps.


----------



## paskowitz

Another Jakob question. I think this might have been answered a while ago... but I can't find the answer. Do IV Pro CPU blocks work with 1551 direct die kits? I know the IV Pro has a very exact mounting pressure, so I would assume the answer is no, but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe this is something worth looking into, different mounting mechanism specs.


----------



## LiquidHaus

MNMadman said:


> You _should_ be worried, if you're overclocking. On Auto/stock most Gen1 Threadripper boards will be able to handle a Gen2 CPU. But not when overclocked and fully loaded.
> 
> Have you seen this?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKe7CnZT9ZE
> 
> I was thinking the same way as you, before I saw that. Not so much, now. My overkill cooling can handle it, but my mainboard won't -- and it's got the same VRM as the Zenith Extreme.


Finally had the chance to watch that video today. Very interesting info. The crazy thing about it, is if all that info is at least 80% true, it's a really big problem to have. And MSI's tease at their new offering, makes it seem like other board makers are waiting a bit to refresh their X399 boards. Because we would/should have seen something from at least a few other board makers other than just MSI. That being said, MSI was the only maker to have a greater than 8 phase board. Theirs was a 10+3. So they came out the game with more phases than necessary for TR1.


It'll be very interesting to see how this all starts panning out in the next few months. 

For myself, I have no reason to purchase the 32 core. Even though the 24 core has the same specs as the 32, I'd still want to try the 24 on my Zenith. Plug in some manual voltage monitors up and see how it fares. 



paskowitz said:


> Another Jakob question. I think this might have been answered a while ago... but I can't find the answer. Do IV Pro CPU blocks work with 1551 direct die kits? I know the IV Pro has a very exact mounting pressure, so I would assume the answer is no, but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe this is something worth looking into, different mounting mechanism specs.


I've ran the IV Pro direct to die. 

As long as you have the back plate, you match up the thread pitch with some longer all-threads, and start to thumb screw them down.

I had continued to torque it down until the board registered the correct amount of pressure to the CPU, and it posted with no issues.

EK also had a delid kit back in the day, I don't think they have it anymore.


----------



## pmc25

MNMadman said:


> You _should_ be worried, if you're overclocking. On Auto/stock most Gen1 Threadripper boards will be able to handle a Gen2 CPU. But not when overclocked and fully loaded.
> 
> Have you seen this?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKe7CnZT9ZE
> 
> I was thinking the same way as you, before I saw that. Not so much, now. My overkill cooling can handle it, but my mainboard won't -- and it's got the same VRM as the Zenith Extreme.


Gen1 boards will be fine for the core counts they were designed for. They're over-engineered.

If you want to overclock the TR.gen2 CPUs with more than 16 cores, obviously it would be sensible to buy a gen2 motherboard.


----------



## Marcel1ne

amazing waterblock quality and design


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

iamjanco said:


> This one is mostly for Jakob. It's the artwork for the proofed panel that I'll be mounting on my dual MO-RA3 setup. Should be going to the waterjet cutter very soon:
> 
> Full *screenshot of panel with asset tag* (linked image, uploads still borked at my end).
> 
> Also swapped out two of the Aquacomputer D5 pumps. Replaced those with Watercool pumps.


I don't fully understand what I am looking at, to be honest. It looks complicated, impressive and very elaborate, so I guess you'll be fine. WOuld you give us a rough overview what this panel will be for?





BucketInABucket said:


> Order number 9085 I believe. 🙂


Yeah, letter shipping is a b&%ch. Since there is no tracking code available, I cannot investigate that order any more than you could. I can only tell you that it shipped on 6/18, so it should be there by now, usually. 

Please keep me updated if it won't be there by end of this week, then we'll find a solution!




lifeisshort117 said:


> It's great to see this thread almost at 300 pages! Bummer when I had only got into this thread on page 50 or whatever, it should have been page 20! lol.
> 
> Jakob I still owe you some stuff, I have not forgotten - work has completely taken over my life however.


I know that feeling, bro - so no worries 




paskowitz said:


> Another Jakob question. I think this might have been answered a while ago... but I can't find the answer. Do IV Pro CPU blocks work with 1551 direct die kits? I know the IV Pro has a very exact mounting pressure, so I would assume the answer is no, but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe this is something worth looking into, different mounting mechanism specs.


Our blocks were not intended for direct die mounting. So you'd have to ask the manufacturer of the direct die kit in question how they address the height differences, if at all. I know that the direkt die frame for Skylake-X by der8auer is compatible with our blocks, for example, since he took those differences in consideration. What solution are you looking to get? Maybe, I can find some compatibility datas for you. And just for the record: our own research revealed that direct die mounting does not yield any positive results whatsoever on Skylake, btw. 




Marcel1ne said:


> amazing waterblock quality and design


Thanks for sharing


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yeah, letter shipping is a b&%ch. Since there is no tracking code available, I cannot investigate that order any more than you could. I can only tell you that it shipped on 6/18, so it should be there by now, usually.
> 
> Please keep me updated if it won't be there by end of this week, then we'll find a solution!


Will do, thank you!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

It's TEASER-TIME!












So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
- extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
- Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
- Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed. 

-Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled. 

- RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
- ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
- Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.


The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's TEASER-TIME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
> - extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
> - Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
> - Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.
> 
> -Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.
> 
> - RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
> - ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
> - Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.
> 
> 
> The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


I think my panties are wet...with coolant. COOLANT!


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our blocks were not intended for direct die mounting. So you'd have to ask the manufacturer of the direct die kit in question how they address the height differences, if at all. I know that the direkt die frame for Skylake-X by der8auer is compatible with our blocks, for example, since he took those differences in consideration. What solution are you looking to get? Maybe, I can find some compatibility datas for you. And just for the record: our own research revealed that direct die mounting does not yield any positive results whatsoever on Skylake, btw.



TBH, I totally forgot about the raised corners of the socket on 1551. Not really work it end of the day, was just curious. Thanks for the answer!




Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's TEASER-TIME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
> - extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
> - Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
> - Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.
> 
> -Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.
> 
> - RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
> - ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
> - Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.
> 
> 
> The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


Looks amazing. Finally, some competition for Aquaero (EK you had your chance xD). If there is still time for feedback, I do have a couple suggestions. 


Hardware:

1. ATM, I am not aware of any controller that has two flow sensors (for two loops). No really a "big" feature, but if possible, a point of differentiation.
2. Addressable RGB header. This is a can of worms, but IMO, a big deal if you can pull it off. Hardware wise, I'm sure this isn't that complex... software wise though... eeehhhh. The main "benefit" of this would be so people with older or lower tier motherboards could use addressable RGB devices through 9 pin USB. IMO, this is a pretty big market and I could see people buying this/a controller for that feature alone. How this would interface with the variety of addressable RGB devices is obviously the challenge. Aquacomputer just announced the RGBpx which works with Corsair and NZXT aRGB fans. Since there is that and Corsair and NZXT also have their own (objectively awful) control solutions (CUE and HUE), maybe leave them to it. Phanteks and Cablemod currently do not have any aRGB to USB solution. Since this only makes their products better, maybe partner with them? At this point, this is looking like an entirely different product, but something I thought should be brought up none the less.
3. More than one controller connected to the system, with both recognized in software (shared or independent control)
4. SATA power possible?



Software:
1. This may seem silly, but one feature I have always wanted was for the WC PWM control solution to recognize that I am done playing a game (program) and to ramp the fans down to a more different (silent) profile (and visa versa). Basically, application based fan control. I'm not sure if Aquasuite does this, but I know no motherboard based solution does. Basically, the software would look to see if an application is running or not. This obviously has relevance to benchmarks as well.
2. In a similar vein, if the above is not possible, then keyboard shortcuts to control PWM profiles.
3. PWM curve smoothing (basic, but hey)
4. This is a bit hard to explain, but I'll try to lay it out. We have two separate loops, with a set of intake fans that feed both loop's respective radiators. In this scenario the ability to set the intake fans to either an average or the greater value of the two water temps (each loop has it's own temp sensor) would be beneficial. Basically, this is pairing a single PWM signal to multiple sensor values. This is pretty niche, but would be a "nice to have".
5. PWM signal cut off (totally stop power to specific fan channels. Manual or sensor value)
6. Ability to rename PWM channels/sensors in software (basic, but hey).
7. Data logging and output
8. Maybe some type of integration with Riva Statistics Tuner and/or HWinfo.


TBH though, anything that is better than motherboard software based PWM control is a win and worth paying for in my book.


----------



## gamefoo21

How does it drop the voltage to the fans? That's a lot of heat to hide in that kind of space and a plastic housing.

Beside's price, that's my only concern.

I look forward to seeing some comparison tests, as I'm kind of curious to see just how much better the digital temp sensors are.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Tell me ya price son!

And more pics with oled bay display.

😎


Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's TEASER-TIME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
> - extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
> - Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
> - Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.
> 
> -Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.
> 
> - RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
> - ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
> - Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.
> 
> 
> The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


----------



## BucketInABucket

gamefoo21 said:


> How does it drop the voltage to the fans? That's a lot of heat to hide in that kind of space and a plastic housing.
> 
> Beside's price, that's my only concern.
> 
> I look forward to seeing some comparison tests, as I'm kind of curious to see just how much better the digital temp sensors are.


Maybe it's actually an aluminium housing


----------



## gamefoo21

BucketInABucket said:


> Maybe it's actually an aluminium housing


Looking at the picture... the engineering sample is definitely using an aluminum shell. heh


----------



## BucketInABucket

gamefoo21 said:


> Looking at the picture... the engineering sample is definitely using an aluminum shell. heh


Yeah, it was the only way I could see the controller not overheating because it would be a right old oven if it was a plastic shell


----------



## LiquidHaus

Jakob you had to have known...

you tease us with a good time and expect we wouldn't demand more!?

I gotta see this OLED, and some basic info about the software would be cool.

It'd be nice to use this platform in a system that has no space for a fan controller.


----------



## BucketInABucket

I've actually been looking for a screen that fits into a 5.25 inch bay and displays computer stats for my latest project and I couldn't find anything apart from the aquaero but now Jakob has blessed us!!


----------



## M-oll

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's TEASER-TIME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
> - extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
> - Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
> - Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.
> 
> -Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.
> 
> - RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
> - ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
> - Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.
> 
> 
> The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


It looks and sounds amazing! Only thing I want to add is an addressable RGBW header and double flow sensors for dual loops.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Our Announcement/Teaser is well received! Through all the platforms and forums, I received a ton of questions. Please understand that I can't answer everything: some things aren't finalized yet and we are looking for your feedback, some things we on't want to talk about yet to not give hints to the competition - and some suggestions from the users flat out got us by surprise! So we are still asking for your ideas, suggestions, feedback - I'll read it all!
So here's my (incomplete) list of answers right now:
- Power delivery: there will be adapter cables for SATA and Molex available, so you can chooesewhich connector suits you best.
- Heat: we are using a highly efficient system, so the components do not heat up at all. The housing is completely made from aluminum, so it can dissipate the little heat that might arise easily. The controller does not requie an additional cooler or fan. 
- Software: the system will be compatible with Windows and Linux.
- Integration: we will try to integrate as many third partysensor systems as possible. High on our list: HWinfo and Riva Tuner. 
- Flow sensor: at launch, there will be a mechanical flow sensor available from Watercool. The software will be perfectly trimmed to this flow sensor. We also have plans for a non-mechanical flow sensor, but it's uncertain if and when we'll ever get that to end customer market. 
- Additional connections: you will be able to hook up two controllers. One will function in "slave mode" and only supply additional connectors and channels, if needed. 
- Display: there will be two display units: one will be mounted in a 5,25'' bay, and the other will come with it's own external housing that can be placed anywhere within cable reach to the controller. Both units will offer a simple, intuitive input device that can control and configure all relevant parts of the controller. 
- LEDs: we currently have one 3pin header for adressable/programmable RGB LEDs available. We are thinking about adding a second header, so you can even run two independent LED cycles in your system. 
- Price: there is no price point set yet. It will be competitive! And given it's a modular system, you'll be able to tailor the right control ecosystem for your own needs!


We appreciate your input and support and look forward to your feedback!


----------



## wheatpaste1999

One suggestion for the device, for installations behind the motherboard it'd be desirable to have the various connectors lay flat. Meaning that the connections are made on the sides rather than the top of the device. Many cases have an inch or less of space behind the motherboard tray and the rear panel. With the thickness of the device (+ velcro for attachment), the connector, and bend radius for the wire it can be really difficult to make it all fit.

90 degree adapter cables/extensions might also work if the headers can't be reconfigured.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our Announcement/Teaser is well received! Through all the platforms and forums, I received a ton of questions. Please understand that I can't answer everything: some things aren't finalized yet and we are looking for your feedback, some things we on't want to talk about yet to not give hints to the competition - and some suggestions from the users flat out got us by surprise! So we are still asking for your ideas, suggestions, feedback - I'll read it all!
> So here's my (incomplete) list of answers right now:
> - Power delivery: there will be adapter cables for SATA and Molex available, so you can chooesewhich connector suits you best.
> - Heat: we are using a highly efficient system, so the components do not heat up at all. The housing is completely made from aluminum, so it can dissipate the little heat that might arise easily. The controller does not requie an additional cooler or fan.
> - Software: the system will be compatible with Windows and Linux.
> - Integration: we will try to integrate as many third partysensor systems as possible. High on our list: HWinfo and Riva Tuner.
> - Flow sensor: at launch, there will be a mechanical flow sensor available from Watercool. The software will be perfectly trimmed to this flow sensor. We also have plans for a non-mechanical flow sensor, but it's uncertain if and when we'll ever get that to end customer market.
> - Additional connections: you will be able to hook up two controllers. One will function in "slave mode" and only supply additional connectors and channels, if needed.
> - Display: there will be two display units: one will be mounted in a 5,25'' bay, and the other will come with it's own external housing that can be placed anywhere within cable reach to the controller. Both units will offer a simple, intuitive input device that can control and configure all relevant parts of the controller.
> - LEDs: we currently have one 3pin header for adressable/programmable RGB LEDs available. We are thinking about adding a second header, so you can even run two independent LED cycles in your system.
> - Price: there is no price point set yet. It will be competitive! And given it's a modular system, you'll be able to tailor the right control ecosystem for your own needs!
> 
> 
> We appreciate your input and support and look forward to your feedback!



This all sounds good. A second aRGB header is the only thing that I would say, 100% do that before release (if possible). It's kinda sad, but there are lots of people who will buy something like this just for RGB support.




wheatpaste1999 said:


> One suggestion for the device, for installations behind the motherboard it'd be desirable to have the various connectors lay flat. Meaning that the connections are made on the sides rather than the top of the device. Many cases have an inch or less of space behind the motherboard tray and the rear panel. With the thickness of the device (+ velcro for attachment), the connector, and bend radius for the wire it can be really difficult to make it all fit.
> 
> 90 degree adapter cables/extensions might also work if the headers can't be reconfigured.



That's a tricky one. Vertical is better for the PSU area, but horizontal is better flat on the midplate.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Awesome, please tease us all with pic of the bay display... 

I want to drive this dual D5 pump puppy...(yes i will add your tubekiller into build) 







Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our Announcement/Teaser is well received! Through all the platforms and forums, I received a ton of questions. Please understand that I can't answer everything: some things aren't finalized yet and we are looking for your feedback, some things we on't want to talk about yet to not give hints to the competition - and some suggestions from the users flat out got us by surprise! So we are still asking for your ideas, suggestions, feedback - I'll read it all!
> So here's my (incomplete) list of answers right now:
> - Power delivery: there will be adapter cables for SATA and Molex available, so you can chooesewhich connector suits you best.
> - Heat: we are using a highly efficient system, so the components do not heat up at all. The housing is completely made from aluminum, so it can dissipate the little heat that might arise easily. The controller does not requie an additional cooler or fan.
> - Software: the system will be compatible with Windows and Linux.
> - Integration: we will try to integrate as many third partysensor systems as possible. High on our list: HWinfo and Riva Tuner.
> - Flow sensor: at launch, there will be a mechanical flow sensor available from Watercool. The software will be perfectly trimmed to this flow sensor. We also have plans for a non-mechanical flow sensor, but it's uncertain if and when we'll ever get that to end customer market.
> - Additional connections: you will be able to hook up two controllers. One will function in "slave mode" and only supply additional connectors and channels, if needed.
> - Display: there will be two display units: one will be mounted in a 5,25'' bay, and the other will come with it's own external housing that can be placed anywhere within cable reach to the controller. Both units will offer a simple, intuitive input device that can control and configure all relevant parts of the controller.
> - LEDs: we currently have one 3pin header for adressable/programmable RGB LEDs available. We are thinking about adding a second header, so you can even run two independent LED cycles in your system.
> - Price: there is no price point set yet. It will be competitive! And given it's a modular system, you'll be able to tailor the right control ecosystem for your own needs!
> 
> 
> We appreciate your input and support and look forward to your feedback!


----------



## rolldog

I’m in the process of rebuilding my waterloop, and I have a Heatkiller Tube 150 basic that I’d like to incorporate into by build. I’ve been using an Alphacool Cape Cool Coolplex HF metal reservoir with an Alphacool Laing DDC310 Eisdecke Complete Edition, which includes the Alphacool Eisdecken V.2 pump top, but I’d like to mount my DDC pump to the bottom of my Heatkiller Tube 150 basic. The bottom of the Heatkiller reservoir has 2 x G1/4” connectors, but I’m having trouble finding the right part that would allow me to mount my DDC pump to the bottom of this Heatkiller Tube so the reservoir, pump, pump top, etc are all integrated together. 

Does Heatkiller make parts for me to integrate a DDC pump onto the bottom of the Heatkiller Tube 150 Basic or do I need to use a separate housing/pump top to use a DDC pump with this reservoir or do any other DDC pump tops and housings work with this reservoir? I’d appreciate any advice. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I’m not 100% familiar with these product lines. Thanks!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

rolldog said:


> I’m in the process of rebuilding my waterloop, and I have a Heatkiller Tube 150 basic that I’d like to incorporate into by build. I’ve been using an Alphacool Cape Cool Coolplex HF metal reservoir with an Alphacool Laing DDC310 Eisdecke Complete Edition, which includes the Alphacool Eisdecken V.2 pump top, but I’d like to mount my DDC pump to the bottom of my Heatkiller Tube 150 basic. The bottom of the Heatkiller reservoir has 2 x G1/4” connectors, but I’m having trouble finding the right part that would allow me to mount my DDC pump to the bottom of this Heatkiller Tube so the reservoir, pump, pump top, etc are all integrated together.
> 
> Does Heatkiller make parts for me to integrate a DDC pump onto the bottom of the Heatkiller Tube 150 Basic or do I need to use a separate housing/pump top to use a DDC pump with this reservoir or do any other DDC pump tops and housings work with this reservoir? I’d appreciate any advice. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I’m not 100% familiar with these product lines. Thanks!


YOu can get the DDC bottom piece as a spare part. It replaces the standard bottom piece, so your pump is directly integrated with the res.


----------



## rolldog

Thank you very much! That’s exactly what I need!


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, just finished my rebuild in a new case!


----------



## kkass

I just made an account to tell Watercool how nice their GPU block is. 

My first copper block too, only used the EK Fluid Gaming aluminium stuff until now. It'll go into a build once all the rest of my components arrive this week. Including the RGB LED strip for the block, which was a bit hard to track down, as no one had it in stock except for Watercool themselves, despite many retailers having it in their catalogs. Finally got it from Aquatuning. Also, the V1 Tech custom backplate is supposed to be mounted with magnets (for easy removal), but the screws supplied with the Vega Heatkiller block sadly aren't metal enough for the magnets to work. Thus it is held on by double-sided tape, and I'll need a sharp knife if I want to get at the card again. 




chibi said:


> Hey guys, just finished my rebuild in a new case!


Awesome build! Fully Watercooled, if my eyes don't deceive me. I spy a both a CPU and GPU block, plus a reservoir. Hardline always looks so cool, but then I think about the cost of all the fittings and go with soft tubing instead. Have you noticed any appreciable difference from using a dedicated sound card?


----------



## Barefooter

^^ That looks real nice chibi :thumb:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

chibi said:


> Hey guys, just finished my rebuild in a new case!


Oh that looks sweet, man! Thanks for sharing! I think I'll switch to an O11 too for my next private rig overhaul. This case just looks so good in every build!




kkass said:


> I just made an account to tell Watercool how nice their GPU block is.
> 
> My first copper block too, only used the EK Fluid Gaming aluminium stuff until now. It'll go into a build once all the rest of my components arrive this week. Including the RGB LED strip for the block, which was a bit hard to track down, as no one had it in stock except for Watercool themselves, despite many retailers having it in their catalogs. Finally got it from Aquatuning. Also, the V1 Tech custom backplate is supposed to be mounted with magnets (for easy removal), but the screws supplied with the Vega Heatkiller block sadly aren't metal enough for the magnets to work. Thus it is held on by double-sided tape, and I'll need a sharp knife if I want to get at the card again.


Thanks for the effort of making an account just for us! I appreciate that!
About the screws: we use DIN 7991 VA screws. These are completely made from stainless steel, instead of using cheap zinc-plated screws. We care about material quality in every aspect of our products, and stainless steel screws are more reliable, corrosion resistant, and have a way longer lifespan. Additionally, stainless steel is, as you realized, non-magnetic. In our opinion, using screw sets that CAN be induced with a magnet field so close to extremely sensitive electronic components like GPUs and VRMs is an unnecessary security risk. We are proud to go the extra mile to make every aspect of our components as safe as possible.


Please be very careful with not carrying anything from the aluminum kit over to your copper loop. I fully understand that it's very frustrating having to buy EVERY component again. But that's the longterm price EK makes you pay for using their aluminum kit in the first place ://


----------



## VileLasagna

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our Announcement/Teaser is well received! Through all the platforms and forums, I received a ton of questions. Please understand that I can't answer everything: some things aren't finalized yet and we are looking for your feedback, some things we on't want to talk about yet to not give hints to the competition - and some suggestions from the users flat out got us by surprise! So we are still asking for your ideas, suggestions, feedback - I'll read it all!
> So here's my (incomplete) list of answers right now:
> [...]
> - Software: the system will be compatible with Windows and Linux.
> - Integration: we will try to integrate as many third partysensor systems as possible. High on our list: HWinfo and Riva Tuner.
> [...]
> - LEDs: we currently have one 3pin header for adressable/programmable RGB LEDs available. We are thinking about adding a second header, so you can even run two independent LED cycles in your system.
> [...]


What is this: Why is my wallet leaking? Wallet, STAHP!


but yeah, geez. You guys are just rubbing salt in my Zenith Extreme shaped wound =P

Following this pretty darn closely


----------



## chibi

kkass said:


> Awesome build! Fully Watercooled, if my eyes don't deceive me. I spy a both a CPU and GPU block, plus a reservoir. Hardline always looks so cool, but then I think about the cost of all the fittings and go with soft tubing instead. Have you noticed any appreciable difference from using a dedicated sound card?



You're correct! I went with Watercool where possible in terms of blocks and reservoir. I was going to wait for the new rads as well, but couldn't go without a computer for too long as I occasionally work from home. In terms of sound card, it is more for convenience. I have my speakers and headphones plugged into their own dedicated jacks so I do not need to pull and swap cables out every time. The Creative software enables switching between the two via the app.



Barefooter said:


> ^^ That looks real nice chibi :thumb:





Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh that looks sweet, man! Thanks for sharing! I think I'll switch to an O11 too for my next private rig overhaul. This case just looks so good in every build!


Thank you guys! :cheers:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Okay, this post is slightly Off-Topic, but since my brain is cooked, I hope you'll forgive me:


Outside, it's 36°C (=97°F) in the shade. At my workplace, it's still ~32°C (90°F). So I invented this lifehack:
- Take a MO-RA3 360 Radiator
- Equip it with four Silverstone Air Penetrator 180mm fans and a fan grill
- hang a wet cloth right in front of the intake
- ramp up the fans to fullspeed (1200rpm)
- enjoy a 4°C temp drop instantly
























Voila, makeshift Airconditioning unit 


Hope you guys and your PCs find good ways to stay cool, as well...


----------



## chibi

Hahaha that's awesome! Summer months here in Canada are brutal too! My office faces the sun so it heats up the ambient to 30 degrees during the afternoon as well.


----------



## Aenra

Thirty is brutal?! _Brutal_!? 
Wanna switch countries, lol? I'll even put in the transportation ^^

I recently bought me an A+++ 22K BTU Toyotomi inverter air conditioning unit. Cleans itself, no filter maintenance required, auto-regulates down to the decimal, with an external temp sensor placed on the remote (meaning it can be below zero outside, you still wouldn't 'fool' it); Wi-Fi encrypted connection to the router. I classify it as "la-Z class".
Have always had good AC units, but nothing even near this beast.

Of course, it's better if you don't need one in the first place..

Japanese first, German second; all else a distant third


----------



## TheArkratos

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Okay, this post is slightly Off-Topic, but since my brain is cooked, I hope you'll forgive me:
> 
> 
> Outside, it's 36°C (=97°F) in the shade. At my workplace, it's still ~32°C (90°F). So I invented this lifehack:
> - Take a MO-RA3 360 Radiator
> - Equip it with four Silverstone Air Penetrator 180mm fans and a fan grill
> - hang a wet cloth right in front of the intake
> - ramp up the fans to fullspeed (1200rpm)
> - enjoy a 4°C temp drop instantly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voila, makeshift Airconditioning unit
> 
> 
> Hope you guys and your PCs find good ways to stay cool, as well...


That or get a second Mo-ra3, get a bucket, an aquarium pump. Use the bucket as a giant reservoir and fill with ice from the store. Use that mo-ra to blow some nice cold air around in your room. When the ice melts, buy more. (Don't put electronics in this loop) Bonus points if you insulate the bucket so the only heat it picks up is from cooling the air being blown.


----------



## Simmons572

TheArkratos said:


> That or get a second Mo-ra3, get a bucket, an aquarium pump. Use the bucket as a giant reservoir and fill with ice from the store. Use that mo-ra to blow some nice cold air around in your room. When the ice melts, buy more. (Don't put electronics in this loop) Bonus points if you insulate the bucket so the only heat it picks up is from cooling the air being blown.


Why stop there? Get a couple TEC's hook the cold side up to the MoRa3, and boom, makeshift electrical AC unit.


----------



## gamefoo21

Simmons572 said:


> Why stop there? Get a couple TEC's hook the cold side up to the MoRa3, and boom, makeshift electrical AC unit.


Don't forget the need to exhaust the hot side of the TECs outside, or you'll just make the room hotter. Though some 4000RPM 38MM San-ace fans you'll want them outside anyways... lol


----------



## YNONO

Hey Jakob,
Any word on the new radiators?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

I should have known that a forum with tech geeks would probably take this as a serious attempt - instead of me just being DESPERATE 



YNONO said:


> Hey Jakob,
> Any word on the new radiators?


Nope. We are testing 28 radiator prototypes currently, but aren't fully convinced of them. This might actually mean that we'll go back to the drawing board and redesign them yet again. But that's just how we roll: rather delay a product by a year than releasing something half-assed...


In other news:
A big german reviewer site just received a full pimped out MO-RA set from us to utilize in their upcoming test series of a "high core count CPU with extremely high TDP". Gee, what could that be... Anyways, we grabbed the opportunity to simply machine and test a design idea that was floating around for quite some time, so please check out this laser cut MO-RA3 fan grill version:






















As I said, it's a unique piece and prototype as of now. Right now, it's also custom fitted for the Noctua 200m fans (how do you like them in black, btw?). But depending on the feedback from the community (that means you crazy guys ), we might turn this into a standard fan grill version available in the shop. So how do you like it: is it hot or not?


----------



## Mad Monk

*A few questions and the grill looks nice.*



Watercool-Jakob said:


> In other news:
> A big german reviewer site just received a full pimped out MO-RA set from us to utilize in their upcoming test series of a "high core count CPU with extremely high TDP". Gee, what could that be... Anyways, we grabbed the opportunity to simply machine and test a design idea that was floating around for quite some time, so please check out this laser cut MO-RA3 fan grill version:
> 
> As I said, it's a unique piece and prototype as of now. Right now, it's also custom fitted for the Noctua 200m fans (how do you like them in black, btw?). But depending on the feedback from the community (that means you crazy guys ), we might turn this into a standard fan grill version available in the shop. So how do you like it: is it hot or not?


Watercool Jakob.

I did not see those Noctua fans on your web site. Are they 30mm thick? Will the existing adapter mounting plate fit these also? Is the grill metal thick enough to ward off bumps?

I like the clean lines of the grill. I like that they wrap around. I like it enough that if I get a couple yes answers the MoRa just went back on my parts list.

Cheers,

MM


----------



## porschedrifter

So what's the deal with this cooler? I'm looking to upgrade my block for my ryzen. Should I look into this one, and why?


----------



## Mad Monk

*A few questions please*



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our Announcement/Teaser is well received! Through all the platforms and forums, I received a ton of questions. Please understand that I can't answer everything: some things aren't finalized yet and we are looking for your feedback, some things we on't want to talk about yet to not give hints to the competition - and some suggestions from the users flat out got us by surprise! So we are still asking for your ideas, suggestions, feedback - I'll read it all!
> So here's my (incomplete) list of answers right now:
> - Power delivery: there will be adapter cables for SATA and Molex available, so you can chooesewhich connector suits you best.
> - Heat: we are using a highly efficient system, so the components do not heat up at all. The housing is completely made from aluminum, so it can dissipate the little heat that might arise easily. The controller does not requie an additional cooler or fan.
> - Software: the system will be compatible with Windows and Linux.
> - Integration: we will try to integrate as many third partysensor systems as possible. High on our list: HWinfo and Riva Tuner.
> - Flow sensor: at launch, there will be a mechanical flow sensor available from Watercool. The software will be perfectly trimmed to this flow sensor. We also have plans for a non-mechanical flow sensor, but it's uncertain if and when we'll ever get that to end customer market.
> - Additional connections: you will be able to hook up two controllers. One will function in "slave mode" and only supply additional connectors and channels, if needed.
> - Display: there will be two display units: one will be mounted in a 5,25'' bay, and the other will come with it's own external housing that can be placed anywhere within cable reach to the controller. Both units will offer a simple, intuitive input device that can control and configure all relevant parts of the controller.
> - LEDs: we currently have one 3pin header for adressable/programmable RGB LEDs available. We are thinking about adding a second header, so you can even run two independent LED cycles in your system.
> - Price: there is no price point set yet. It will be competitive! And given it's a modular system, you'll be able to tailor the right control ecosystem for your own needs!
> 
> We appreciate your input and support and look forward to your feedback!


Hello Watercool Jakob and all,

I'm starting a very slow motion build so holding off on a few things until you bring this to market is very doable. Understanding this is a prototype (subject to change) I've a few questions I hope you will answer.

I am assuming the unit controls both pumps and fans? How many fans? PWM? DC? Or both? How many pumps? PWM? DC? Or both?

If I missed this please accept my apologies for bringing it up again, Modular?

Let me try it this way: Case - *ThermalTake Core X-9; **CPU - i7 7820X; MB down to an EATX and an ATX X299 boards; Storage - solid state with HDD for backup; GPU(s) - 1080 TI and, before I saw what you did to the MoRa further on a single loop with duel D5s, 1 200 X 200 rad in front, one 200 X 400 rad on top. two 280 rads in the basement, and a 140mm exhaust fan. So right now I am looking at two D5s, three Noctua 200mms fans, and five 140mm fans.

It gets warm here. RGB is not my thing anymore but... If this unit can change colors based on temperatures and or flow rates I'll go there. An audible alarm for flow rate with an auto shut down feature is lusted after also.

Can it do this?

Cheers,

MM
*Until I get the build done, I can rent out part of the case as a small apartment. ;-)
** Still researching Silicone Lottery; if they check out they have delidded pre-binned CPUs. Has to be better than my ham handed efforts and guaranteed stable overclock. Happy dance.


----------



## warpuck

I still have my 9590 water cooling solution, should I ever get the urge to cool a 900 watts of GPU and CPU heat again. That looks a lot more elegant that what I cobbled together.
Note the HK3 is still nice and shiny


----------



## Jakerz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Okay, this post is slightly Off-Topic, but since my brain is cooked, I hope you'll forgive me:
> 
> 
> Outside, it's 36°C (=97°F) in the shade. At my workplace, it's still ~32°C (90°F). So I invented this lifehack:
> - Take a MO-RA3 360 Radiator
> - Equip it with four Silverstone Air Penetrator 180mm fans and a fan grill
> - hang a wet cloth right in front of the intake
> - ramp up the fans to fullspeed (1200rpm)
> - enjoy a 4°C temp drop instantly
> 
> Voila, makeshift Airconditioning unit
> 
> 
> Hope you guys and your PCs find good ways to stay cool, as well...


This made me laugh, we do the same thing at work when we have our Gas Turbines at full load, we have a media material in the intake that we run water through, it'll drop the temps on the inlet 10-15 degrees on a day with lowish humidity, they're called "Evap Coolers". Lower inlet temp = more dense air = more Megawatts, same principal here though!

Jake


----------



## iamjanco

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I should have known that a forum with tech geeks would probably take this as a serious attempt - instead of me just being DESPERATE
> 
> Nope. We are testing 28 radiator prototypes currently, but aren't fully convinced of them. This might actually mean that we'll go back to the drawing board and redesign them yet again. But that's just how we roll: rather delay a product by a year than releasing something half-assed...
> 
> In other news:
> A big german reviewer site just received a full pimped out MO-RA set from us to utilize in their upcoming test series of a "high core count CPU with extremely high TDP". Gee, what could that be... Anyways, we grabbed the opportunity to simply machine and test a design idea that was floating around for quite some time, so please check out this laser cut MO-RA3 fan grill version:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, it's a unique piece and prototype as of now. Right now, it's also custom fitted for the Noctua 200m fans (how do you like them in black, btw?). But depending on the feedback from the community (that means you crazy guys ), we might turn this into a standard fan grill version available in the shop. So how do you like it: is it hot or not?


Honestly? They look sharp  I especially like the black versions of the 200mm Noctuas. Whether those perform better than smaller fans, might be another matter of course.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I should have known that a forum with tech geeks would probably take this as a serious attempt - instead of me just being DESPERATE
> 
> 
> Nope. We are testing 28 radiator prototypes currently, but aren't fully convinced of them. This might actually mean that we'll go back to the drawing board and redesign them yet again. But that's just how we roll: rather delay a product by a year than releasing something half-assed...
> 
> 
> In other news:
> A big german reviewer site just received a full pimped out MO-RA set from us to utilize in their upcoming test series of a "high core count CPU with extremely high TDP". Gee, what could that be... Anyways, we grabbed the opportunity to simply machine and test a design idea that was floating around for quite some time, so please check out this laser cut MO-RA3 fan grill version:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, it's a unique piece and prototype as of now. Right now, it's also custom fitted for the Noctua 200m fans (how do you like them in black, btw?). But depending on the feedback from the community (that means you crazy guys ), we might turn this into a standard fan grill version available in the shop. So how do you like it: is it hot or not?


 That looks interesting but as with many fan grills won't it slightly interfere with air flow?


----------



## Diffident

Does Watercool make a TR4 block with an acetal top? I only see a copper, nickel or clear acrylic. Copper or nickel isn't the look I'm going for, and I'm leary of ports in clear acrylic tops. I had a block with a clear top from EK that over time exhibited cracks emanating from the ports.

Every other block has an acetal top option.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Mad Monk said:


> Watercool Jakob.
> 
> I did not see those Noctua fans on your web site. Are they 30mm thick? Will the existing adapter mounting plate fit these also? Is the grill metal thick enough to ward off bumps?
> 
> I like the clean lines of the grill. I like that they wrap around. I like it enough that if I get a couple yes answers the MoRa just went back on my parts list.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> MM


Those are the standard Noctua NF-A20, we just painted them black for this custom build. They are, indeed, 30mm thick. Of course, our standard mounting plate is absolutely compatible with those. Please understand that this fan grill is a single unit custom piece and not available in the shop at all. We do have a wide selection of fan grills in our shop, though. The High Version grill is also compatible with the 30mm fans. 








porschedrifter said:


> So what's the deal with this cooler? I'm looking to upgrade my block for my ryzen. Should I look into this one, and why?


I don't fully understand which cooler you are talking about. Could you please specify?




Mad Monk said:


> Hello Watercool Jakob and all,
> 
> I'm starting a very slow motion build so holding off on a few things until you bring this to market is very doable. Understanding this is a prototype (subject to change) I've a few questions I hope you will answer.
> 
> I am assuming the unit controls both pumps and fans? How many fans? PWM? DC? Or both? How many pumps? PWM? DC? Or both?
> 
> [...]
> 
> It gets warm here. RGB is not my thing anymore but... If this unit can change colors based on temperatures and or flow rates I'll go there. An audible alarm for flow rate with an auto shut down feature is lusted after also.
> 
> Can it do this?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> MM


Please check my original post about the controller, there's also a lot of info there. Fans: four channels, each can provide 2Ampere. It's up to you how many fans that will be. Each channel can control DC or PWM fans. Each pump channel can also control DC or pwmPumps. This controller provides an aRGB header. You can obviously configure it so that it'll change colors depending on water temp. An Auto shut down feature is already< implemented via the "ATX" labeled header.






Diffident said:


> Does Watercool make a TR4 block with an acetal top? I only see a copper, nickel or clear acrylic. Copper or nickel isn't the look I'm going for, and I'm leary of ports in clear acrylic tops. I had a block with a clear top from EK that over time exhibited cracks emanating from the ports.
> 
> Every other block has an acetal top option.


No, there is no Threadripper block with an Acetal top. 

Maybe you'll find some peace in the fact that we only use true Evonik Plexiglas® GS. This is the highest possible grade of acrylic. And we only use the GS version, which is cast acrylic, not extruded. This is more expensive, but the acrylic does not contain any micro tensions, which is what leads to many acrylic products beinig so easy to crack.


----------



## Dotachin

Hi Jakob, a couple questions if you don't mind:

With no new threadripper chipset in sight, can we expect a block for the x399 taichi vrm?

If the reference 1180/2080 comes out without a dvi port (I'm not getting another monitor until oled/joled), which non reference models usually get a waterblock (eventually)?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Dotachin said:


> Hi Jakob, a couple questions if you don't mind:
> 
> With no new threadripper chipset in sight, can we expect a block for the x399 taichi vrm?
> 
> If the reference 1180/2080 comes out without a dvi port (I'm not getting another monitor until oled/joled), which non reference models usually get a waterblock (eventually)?


Sure, I'm here to answer questions, that's my job 


We do plan to release some more VRM water blocks in the near future. Demand is constantly high, so we want to cater for that. I cannot make any promises for which boards these blocks will be, though. We are currently evaluating the market to make up our decision. 



"Usually", we do not support ANY nonreference PCBs at all  We tested that with the 1080FTW and were pretty happy with the results. So we are definitely planning to support nonreference cards for the next generation, as well! The obvious candidates are Asus Strix and EVGA FTW, but I cannot make a definite statement just yet. Let's have the reference cards and blocks first, shall we


----------



## Barefooter

That Mora grill looks awesome!


----------



## pmc25

Madmaxneo said:


> That looks interesting but as with many fan grills won't it slightly interfere with air flow?


Yes, it will.

Cooling performance isn't so much of an issue. 

However, noise would be significantly increased, both from the air passing between the grilles, and from increased turbulence.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Sure, I'm here to answer questions, that's my job
> 
> 
> We do plan to release some more VRM water blocks in the near future. Demand is constantly high, so we want to cater for that. I cannot make any promises for which boards these blocks will be, though. We are currently evaluating the market to make up our decision.
> 
> 
> 
> "Usually", we do not support ANY nonreference PCBs at all  We tested that with the 1080FTW and were pretty happy with the results. So we are definitely planning to support nonreference cards for the next generation, as well! The obvious candidates are Asus Strix and EVGA FTW, but I cannot make a definite statement just yet. Let's have the reference cards and blocks first, shall we



How long does it usually take from reference board release to waterblock release?


----------



## Aenra

Can someone give me some help pls? 
It would save me a looot of time taking everything apart to see for myself :S

I need to know if the highlighted threading in the following pic is M4 or M3?
( for the actual item, see here: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30232 )


----------



## Aenra

* I need a set of these, or similar ones, for a custom-made pump mount base i got going (will be mounted on one of my two S8 pedestals through decouplers); except i need the males to be M3 and i can't recall if they are. I know Aqua's are M4, but no longer sure what watercool's are 
Again, am only interested in the male threading as shown above, as that is the side to be threading into the actual chassis.


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> * I need a set of these, or similar ones, for a custom-made pump mount base i got going (will be mounted on one of my two S8 pedestals through decouplers); except i need the males to be M3 and i can't recall if they are. I know Aqua's are M4, but no longer sure what watercool's are
> Again, am only interested in the male threading as shown above, as that is the side to be threading into the actual chassis.


Both brands are M4s. That said, see a pm for some additional info.


----------



## Aenra

To the rescue indeed; once again man, thanks a lot


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jokesterwild said:


> How long does it usually take from reference board release to waterblock release?


We are pushing very hard, and there still is a possibility that we'll have a block at launch day. If this version of events will not work out, we'll have one within 2 weeks after launch of the card. 




Aenra said:


> Can someone give me some help pls?
> It would save me a looot of time taking everything apart to see for myself :S
> 
> I need to know if the highlighted threading in the following pic is M4 or M3?
> ( for the actual item, see here: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30232 )


That thread is M4. We usually try to use M4 anywhere possible, and only switch to M3 if we can't fit an M4 thread in the specific place. But our standard got to solution is M4.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We usually try to use M4 anywhere possible, and only switch to M3 if we can't fit an M4 thread in the specific place


Yeah, just me being dumb honestly.. don't know how it got to me, that it's M3.. Anyway, thanks for replying


----------



## skingun

When 2080 TI block?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

We are working very hard with our partners to have a block at release date. If this should not work, we'll have a block within two weeks after release.


I'm at gamescomthis week, so I won't be around here as much. You can find some coverage from gamescom through my facebook account and through the Watercool accounts on facebook and twitter (links in sig).


----------



## Wally West

Cant wait for the new Nvidia waterblock 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Barefooter

Wally West said:


> Cant wait for the new Nvidia waterblock


Me too :thumb:



Watercool-Jakob said:


> *We are working very hard with our partners to have a block at release date. If this should not work, we'll have a block within two weeks after release.*
> 
> 
> I'm at gamescomthis week, so I won't be around here as much. You can find some coverage from gamescom through my facebook account and through the Watercool accounts on facebook and twitter (links in sig).


Put me down for two HEATKILLER IV for RTX 2080Ti - ACRYL Ni upon release Jakob!

Also would love to have nickel plated backplates too please 


.


----------



## skingun

@Watercool-Jakob if that's the case I will wait for you. I prefer your products over EK but won't be able to resist a purchase for long after launch.

Nickel plated backplates would be great. Put me down for 2!


----------



## Mad Monk

*Watercool-Jakob, Thank you*

@Watercool-Jakob 

Thank you for your responses and patience.

Sometimes what I read and understand are not the same thing so I ask. For what it is worth, once I read the original post on your, hopefully soon to be released controller, my plans went back on the drawing board. Looking forward to more information as it becomes available. Edit: Yes Sir, I read the proposed release date. Suffice it to say what you have shared is exciting.

That MoRa grill! It is to be lusted after.  My bad about the fan color. I am using old cases to learn how to paint a case. I knew fans can be painted. It just never occurred to me you would do the same thing.

Once again, thank you for your time and patience.

Cheers,

MM


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Any news on waterblocks for the new 2080/2080Ti GPUs?


----------



## Aenra

Remember folks, the more GPUs you buy, the more you save.

Don't be a victim, pre-order two of them for SLI.
Personally i'm going for three, just in case one of the two breaks down.

The more you buy, the more you save.
Now with pre-orders.


----------



## kevindd992002

Aenra said:


> Remember folks, the more GPUs you buy, the more you save.
> 
> Don't be a victim, pre-order two of them for SLI.
> Personally i'm going for three, just in case one of the two breaks down.
> 
> The more you buy, the more you save.
> Now with pre-orders.


LOL. Stupid Jensen.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Some Watercool p0rn


----------



## iamjanco

Jameswalt1 said:


> Some Watercool p0rn
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Beautiful, as usual, especially the product photography. :thumb:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Jameswalt1 said:


> Some Watercool p0rn
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


Wow, love your pics! Thanks for sharing!




wheatpaste1999 said:


> Any news on waterblocks for the new 2080/2080Ti GPUs?


We will have two sets of blocks: one for the 2080, and another for the 2080Ti. We will have blocks with a copper coldplate available at 9/20. Nickel plated blocks will follow 1-2 weeks later.We are currently working out the details to pre-order them. I will let you know as soon as we got that finalized.


In another note: i will take some time off. I'll be out of office from tomorrow, 8/30 till 9/9. From Monday, 9/10 on, I'll check in as usual 






//Edit: okay, one final thing: I just uploaded our current new updated Heatkiller GPU Compatibility Chart. This represents our current state of knowledge, I'll try to fill in as many of those "Unknown"s when I'll be back in the office


----------



## rioja

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's TEASER-TIME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
> - extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
> - Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
> - Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.
> 
> -Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.
> 
> - RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
> - ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
> - Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.
> 
> 
> The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


Hi Jacob, this controller looks very promising, finally there is an alternative to Aquaero 6 which is at least mentally outdated, it was introduced 5 years ago!

However, I found 2 major things to improve 

1) It is not logical to have 2 pumps and one flow sensor, 2 pumps means in most cases dual loops which leads to necessity of having 2 flow sensors.
So it's better to have equal quantity of pumps and flow sensors, 1 pump and 1 flow sensor or 2 pumps with 2 flow sensors.

2) 4 pwm fan outputs is so few, very often one loop has more than on radiator, so it means it's required to control let's say up to 6 fans in one loop (and even more)
And there is second loop and in addition there are case fans. Even 2 control units in conjunction won't allow to control more than 10 pwm fans (even if 2 fans will be on pump connectors).
For example, in my case I need to control 12 radiator fans and 1 case fan

Ideally, the unit should have 1 pump, 1 flow sensor and 6-8 pwm fans. And then you can sell 2 units for one system (one unit per each loop)

I really really hope it is possible to change it before product launch)


----------



## Abaidor

I have 17 fans to control (9 on MORA) and I do it all through the motherboard right now (QFAN Bios) because Asus AI Suite & Fan Expert 4 is full of bugs. 
I was considering an Aquaero in order to be able to control everything from windows vs the BIOS so I will be eagerly waiting to see how this pans out.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We will have two sets of blocks: one for the 2080, and another for the 2080Ti. We will have blocks with a copper coldplate available at 9/20. Nickel plated blocks will follow 1-2 weeks later.We are currently working out the details to pre-order them. I will let you know as soon as we got that finalized.
> )


Thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing the new blocks!


----------



## skingun

@Watercool-Jakob ready to pre order as soon as you say GO!

Can we get nickel plated backplates on pre order too please 🙂


----------



## kevindd992002

@Watercool-Jakob

How does the "external housing" connect to the controller? Any remote chance that this can be achieve wirelessly (RF frequency)? This is for cases without 5.25" bays.


----------



## Barefooter

skingun said:


> @Watercool-Jakob ready to pre order as soon as you say GO!
> 
> Can we get nickel plated backplates on pre order too please 🙂





kevindd992002 said:


> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> How does the "external housing" connect to the controller? Any remote chance that this can be achieve wirelessly (RF frequency)? This is for cases without 5.25" bays.


If you missed his post above, he's on Holiday until the 10th of September, so you probably won't get an answer before then.


----------



## JasonMorris

I posted this in the main watercooling thread but maybe somebody here will have a more detailed explanation or tips: HEATKILLER® IV for TITAN X and GTX 1080Ti (https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1707364-heatkillera-iv-titan-x-gtx-1080ti.html)

Hope somebody can help me with this as my flow has dropped off a cliff since installing this block on my new 1080. I have 2 D5's in serial and my flow at 100% on both is now 125 lph!! where before it was over 200 on my 980 on an EK block. At 25% i get no registered flow at all where previously it was 50 lph.
I've tried several combinations of in / out and have settled on the ones pictured on various videos where the inlet is on the bracket side front and the outlet next to it. I also have quite a large air bubble in the block but that shouldn't kill the flow that much.
I've done the usual tilting etc but its quite hard in a fully loaded Caselabs S8. I've also drained and refilled but to no avail.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## skingun

Could be the air bubble if it is big. I have two of these blocks in my main rig running in parallel with 2 aquacomputer D5 pumps and at max speed I push 400lph. That's with 2 HWLabs SR2 360 rads and a Alphacool XT45 in the side chamber. 

Although I am switching the top rads to Alphacool UT60's next month and modding the GPU cable run in honour of @fast_fate. I tried to do this with the SR2's but the multiport design is clunky and I can't fit the vertical cable tray between the rads.


----------



## skingun

double post


----------



## JasonMorris

Thanks for the post. I will try and wiggle it about and get that bubble shifted. I'm using two Monsta 360's in my pedestal and they are quite restrictive compared to my old XPC RX v3's but the Monsta's are very nice rads to work with and look good as well.


----------



## skingun

My understanding is that Alphacool Monsta radiators are low restriction.

https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/3/


----------



## JasonMorris

Sounds like I probably have a dead mouse living in my radiator.
So can you have the inlet and outlet on different sides? Checking the EK site they also show both on one side but I think this is just for the glossy pictures. In the manual they have inlet on back and outlet on front which is my preferred way based on the inlet coming from the CPU and the outlet going back to the res.


----------



## JasonMorris

Re-reading the instruction manual it says "The HEATKILLER® IV VGA series has a defined input and output. The connector closest to the slot bracket has to be used as the inlet. " so it does look like you can have inlet one side and outlet the other. I will change it again, 3rd time lucky, and see if I can shift that bubble.


----------



## JasonMorris

Anybody from Watercool.de able to chip in and confirm please?


----------



## skingun

One port is inlet, the other is outlet. The direction of the fitting is irrelevant.


----------



## Bart

Damn, this specified inlet / outlet is news to me. Which probably means I'm running in the wrong direction! I wonder how much of a difference that makes in either temps or flow rate?


----------



## Wally West

Bart said:


> Damn, this specified inlet / outlet is news to me. Which probably means I'm running in the wrong direction! I wonder how much of a difference that makes in either temps or flow rate?


3-4c IIRC.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Jacob has Watercool ever considered making a Serial Dual D5 top? I understand I could just hook up 2 singles or a Res/Top into a single but a Dual D5 with a Double wide reservoir would not only have a better aesthetic but also a rectangle shape res would do a great job of reducing any cyclone action.


----------



## Streetdragon

ChiTownButcher said:


> Jacob has Watercool ever considered making a Serial Dual D5 top? I understand I could just hook up 2 singles or a Res/Top into a single but a Dual D5 with a Double wide reservoir would not only have a better aesthetic but also a rectangle shape res would do a great job of reducing any cyclone action.


Something like that would be nice^^


----------



## JasonMorris

Bracket side are the inlets. It's on the last page or so in the install guide but not exactly clear or obvious and with all the photo's showing them both 'front side' I think it's easy to make a mistake. To be honest the install guides could do with a bit of work when compared to EK ones.


----------



## Bart

So in the screenshot below, I'm pumping water up into the bottom card. Am I flowing backwards here?


----------



## Wally West

Bart said:


> So in the screenshot below, I'm pumping water up into the bottom card. Am I flowing backwards here?


Looks like it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Paprika

Bart said:


> So in the screenshot below, I'm pumping water up into the bottom card. Am I flowing backwards here?


Yep.


----------



## Bart

I figured, LOL! Why can't I accidentally gets something RIGHT for once! Oh well, I was thinking about redoing the tube and changing the fluid to purple anyways! Thanks for the confirmation guys.


----------



## YNONO

*My Water cool build*

Hi Everyone,

Here are a couple of pictures of my build as of now it’s just mocked up right now.
I did pressure test it and it passed fine so everything is good that way. 
The flow goes out of the pump into the video card/video card to the top radiator 
top radiator to CPU/CPU to bottom radiator and then back to the reservoir at the top.

Boy before even posting I made a change, The feed to the video card is now two 45
fittings. I'll post both pic's.
With the 45s it works out better, It keeps the tubing further away from the glass in the front.

The radiators are the one on the bottom is a Magicool pro slim profile 3x120 mm.
The top one is a Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 full copper 360 mm.

I wanted to use two of the Alphacool XT45s but there wasn't room with the reservoir
with the inlet at the top.

The case is a Lian Li PC-011WW
The CPU is a i7 4770K . The MB a MSI z97 Gaming 5 (in the pic's is a z87)
Video card is a GTX 1070 founders edition.

I'll be using Mayhem's x1 clear coolant, Down the line I might die the coolant dark red/Blood Red
whatever they call it.
The only RGB in the system is in the video card and the reservoir.


My plan is if everything works fine the way the set up is right now( temps/airflow) I’ll switch over to hard to tubing.
Besides the looks that’s part of the reason why I went with the Monsoon free center compression fittings.
For about $40 I can convert them all to use hard tubing so it saves some money on fittings. 

So what you guys think? Be nice..


----------



## ryan92084

It isn't how i would have run the tubing but it isn't a big deal and you are planning to switch anyway. Otherwise as a fellow LianLi and monsoon user :thumb:


----------



## YNONO

ryan92084 said:


> It isn't how i would have run the tubing but it isn't a big deal and you are planning to switch anyway. Otherwise as a fellow LianLi and monsoon user :thumb:


Thanks for the feedback.

OK I reconfigured the loop to have the radiators connected in series at the front. The tie-rap on the tube from the GPU to the CPU has to be there to be able to make that tight of a turn. When I convert to hard tubing I won’t need the tie-rap.

It definitely looks cleaner this way and I already know that temps won’t really be any different.
And so far in the pressure test it is doing just fine.

Changing the loop is not that big of a deal. I bought 20 feet of this tubing because I knew I'd be changing it around and it's cheap.

Converting it over to hard tubing will several months down the line if not 6 or more but will be done as funds become available.

OK I got the pictures out of order but you get the idea.


----------



## Streetdragon

looks good so far.
As long as the tube between GPU and CPU wont kink^^


----------



## Section31

Heatkiller makes great products i will say. Eagerly await your RTX2080TI GPU Block.

Even in my budget build for my friend (also tribute to caselabs) looks great and worth the investment.


----------



## ryan92084

YNONO said:


> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> OK I reconfigured the loop to have the radiators connected in series at the front. The tie-rap on the tube from the GPU to the CPU has to be there to be able to make that tight of a turn. When I convert to hard tubing I won’t need the tie-rap.
> 
> It definitely looks cleaner this way and I already know that temps won’t really be any different.
> And so far in the pressure test it is doing just fine.
> 
> Changing the loop is not that big of a deal. I bought 20 feet of this tubing because I knew I'd be changing it around and it's cheap.
> 
> Converting it over to hard tubing will several months down the line if not 6 or more but will be done as funds become available.
> 
> OK I got the pictures out of order but you get the idea.


Looking good. If you are up for more experimentation then I would try rotating the bottom rad so the ports are in back of the case,pointing the pump toward the back and going:

Pump>bottom rad>gpu>cpu>top rad>res
or 
Pump>gpu>bottom rad>cpu>top rad>res

Edit: ah I see the horizontal mouting bracket has a platform that gets in the way. Never mind then. Unless you can get the pump to easily go directly into the bottom rad then pointing the pump toward the back and shortening the tube between the pump and GPU would be my only suggestions.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys, I'm back from my break. I'm currently trying to catch up with all of you please forgive me if I overlook something and feel free to ask again! 



rioja said:


> 1) It is not logical to have 2 pumps and one flow sensor, 2 pumps means in most cases dual loops which leads to necessity of having 2 flow sensors.
> So it's better to have equal quantity of pumps and flow sensors, 1 pump and 1 flow sensor or 2 pumps with 2 flow sensors.
> 
> 2) 4 pwm fan outputs is so few, very often one loop has more than on radiator, so it means it's required to control let's say up to 6 fans in one loop (and even more)
> And there is second loop and in addition there are case fans. Even 2 control units in conjunction won't allow to control more than 10 pwm fans (even if 2 fans will be on pump connectors).
> For example, in my case I need to control 12 radiator fans and 1 case fan


Thanks for your feedback!
1) yep, we heard this feedback before. We'll try to fit in a second flow header there.
2) Each fan output can carry up to 2 Amps, so it really depends on what fans you are using. For example, this would be enough to use 28 120mm eloops (according to manufacturer specs) - on ONE channel of the controller!






skingun said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* ready to pre order as soon as you say GO!
> 
> Can we get nickel plated backplates on pre order too please 🙂


Nope :> 

We don't have nickel plated backplates yet. We are aware of the demand, and will try to make it work, but definitely not in the first few batches.




kevindd992002 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> How does the "external housing" connect to the controller? Any remote chance that this can be achieve wirelessly (RF frequency)? This is for cases without 5.25" bays.


In the current stage, it will be connected by cable. Thanks for the input with the RF, we'll look into that.




JasonMorris said:


> Hope somebody can help me with this as my flow has dropped off a cliff since installing this block on my new 1080. I have 2 D5's in serial and my flow at 100% on both is now 125 lph!! where before it was over 200 on my 980 on an EK block. At 25% i get no registered flow at all where previously it was 50 lph.
> I've tried several combinations of in / out and have settled on the ones pictured on various videos where the inlet is on the bracket side front and the outlet next to it. I also have quite a large air bubble in the block but that shouldn't kill the flow that much.


I'd agree to everybody else: most likely some air bubbles throughout your system. Since your post is a few days old, maybe it already got better yet?




Bart said:


> Damn, this specified inlet / outlet is news to me. Which probably means I'm running in the wrong direction! I wonder how much of a difference that makes in either temps or flow rate?


Generally speaking, you'll loose 3-8K in temp, but gain a little bit in flow rate. 




ChiTownButcher said:


> Jacob has Watercool ever considered making a Serial Dual D5 top? I understand I could just hook up 2 singles or a Res/Top into a single but a Dual D5 with a Double wide reservoir would not only have a better aesthetic but also a rectangle shape res would do a great job of reducing any cyclone action.


New pump tops, including serial tops, are planned for late 2018/early 2019.




Bart said:


> So in the screenshot below, I'm pumping water up into the bottom card. Am I flowing backwards here?


Yes, that is backwards.


----------



## alanthecelt

Sorry, i asked on your facebook page, figure might get a response on here better
2080TI Blocks, i want to know if i should dive in on an Alphacool block or wait.....
any details that can be confirmed please? ie basic looks? colour options, and i read somewhere there maybe an active backplate option? if so colour me interested and i can leave the 2080TI in its box a little longer
thanks


----------



## YNONO

Streetdragon said:


> looks good so far.
> As long as the tube between GPU and CPU wont kink^^


Thanks,
I did change it. I used a 90 coming out of the GPU to reduce the 
possibility of kinking. (see the pic below)


----------



## YNONO

ryan92084 said:


> Looking good. If you are up for more experimentation then I would try rotating the bottom rad so the ports are in back of the case,pointing the pump toward the back and going:
> 
> Pump>bottom rad>gpu>cpu>top rad>res
> or
> Pump>gpu>bottom rad>cpu>top rad>res
> 
> Edit: ah I see the horizontal mouting bracket has a platform that gets in the way. Never mind then. Unless you can get the pump to easily go directly into the bottom rad then pointing the pump toward the back and shortening the tube between the pump and GPU would be my only suggestions.


Thanks,
I thought about doing that with the bottom radiator but it just doesn’t work.
I did a couple minor changes I added the 90° coming out of the GPU to the CPU which got rid of the zip tie and added 45 to the CPU return to the top radiator. 

I have 12 more feet of tubing so I’m up for any changes that will improve performance or looks.

The next big change I’ll be doing is moving the drain valve to the back, So I need to order a couple of fittings and then do that because I don’t like looking at it in the front.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> New pump tops, including serial tops, are planned for late 2018/early 2019


Details! Details! :thumbsups

And welcome back, lol


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Preorder for Turing blocks are live:

October 1st for Copper
October 8th for nickel plated
October 15th for the black aluminium backplate


----------



## skingun

Pre-order placed


----------



## GAN77

Fitzcaraldo said:


> Preorder for Turing blocks are live:



Pre-order with a discount?


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Apparently, yes.


----------



## empyr

Nickel backplate please 😞


----------



## skingun

empyr said:


> Nickel backplate please 😞


It was said that nickle backplates are being considered but won't be prioritized in first batch.


----------



## empyr

skingun said:


> empyr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel backplate please 😞
> 
> 
> 
> It was said that nickle backplates are being considered but won't be prioritized in first batch.
Click to expand...

Thank you, but I would hope that consideration ain't going to leave people like myself hanging when we would want it sooner than later.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Fitzcaraldo said:


> Preorder for Turing blocks are live:
> 
> October 1st for Copper
> October 8th for nickel plated
> October 15th for the black aluminium backplate


Oh man, you guys are quick... I was still working on my...




:drum::drum::drum:Announcement:cheers::cheers::cheers:​ 


> Pre-Order for our Heatkiller for Nvidia Geforce RTX 2080 and RTX 2080Ti starts today! We returned with the same five versions that were very popular in the Pascal generation. Coldplates in bare copper or nickel-plated copper, tops in Acetal (POM) or Plexiglas, front screens in stainless steel or anodized aluminum.
> In our material selection, we took the next technological step: our coldplates are no longer electrolytically plated, but chemically. The ever-growing range of radiators and show fluids with extreme properties offers increasing wear and tear to the nickel plating. So we decided to choose the technological more complex, more elaborate and more expensive plating: the chemical plating is more durable, more robust, and forms a more stable bond with the copper.
> Additionally, the blocks with nickel plated coldplate and acrylic top now also come with preinstalled RGB illumination. The copper acryl version can be equipped with an RGB strip by the customer.
> 
> The blocks with copper coldplate will start shipping on October 1st, the versions with nickel plated cold plate will start shipping on October 8th. The perfectly matched backplate for RTX 2080 and RTX 2080Ti follows on October 15th. All blocks come with a 10€ pre-order discount, valid till October 8th.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, an old friend of ours makes his return to our product portfolio: the Heatkiller IV COPPER AN CPU blocks were very popular. Unfortunately, a new EU regulation made it impossible to continue the specific plating at the beginning of this year. So it's our great pleasure to announce that we are now able to offer a new version of this classic: the HEATKILLER IV BLACK COPPER. The shade of grey is slightly darker as with the original Copper An, but the BLACK COPPER still keeps the metallic gloss in its almost black surface. Combined with case lighting, this offers absolutely unique and never before seen possibilities!
> 
> The BLACK COPPER also is completely chemically nickel plated, which makes it extremely robust against dirty loops or aggressive fluids.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, we added a small, but powerful accessory to our lineup: with the PCI slot pass-through bracket, it is super simple to connect external radiators to your internal cooling loop without having to modify or damage your case. The bracket is the perfect link between our popular MO-RA3 radiators and your internal loop!





empyr said:


> Nickel backplate please 😞


We are aware of the demand. We do not have nickel plated backplates as of now. As soon as the whole RTX 20 thing is rolling, well make another attempt to get a plating that satisfies our desire for perfection.


----------



## empyr

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are aware of the demand. We do not have nickel plated backplates as of now. As soon as the whole RTX 20 thing is rolling, well make another attempt to get a plating that satisfies our desire for perfection.



Good to hear. Do you happen to have a picture of where the RGB Strip is positioned / where the wire is routed on the 2080 Ti block?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

empyr said:


> Good to hear. Do you happen to have a picture of where the RGB Strip is positioned / where the wire is routed on the 2080 Ti block?


Not yet. I'll post pictures of all blocks as soon as they'll become available.


----------



## empyr

Watercool-Jakob said:


> empyr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good to hear. Do you happen to have a picture of where the RGB Strip is positioned / where the wire is routed on the 2080 Ti block?
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet. I'll post pictures of all blocks as soon as they'll become available.
Click to expand...

Alright, one question however, on your list the EVGA XC and XC ULTRA are listed as the reference pcb. However today I received a email from EVGAs EU support saying they are not?

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

empyr said:


> Alright, one question however, on your list the EVGA XC and XC ULTRA are listed as the reference pcb. However today I received a email from EVGAs EU support saying they are not?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


That's interesting. Thanks for letting me know, I'll look into it.


----------



## TheArkratos

Yesterday I learned that AMD reference cards are about 5mm wider than Nvidia cards. I have a RX480 reference and a Titan X (Maxwell) with EK blocks on them both. So I have to do some modding to the terminal connectors to get them to line up cleanly. So since I'm no longer buying EK blocks (if I can help it)... Do you guys do any compensation to make sure the terminal connectors end up in the same location for each card? That way they work nicely in a multi gpu set up even if cards are mismatched?

If you are curious why I'm mismatching cards, I'll be running Linux and want my most powerful card as the primary. But for virtual machines, AMD cards play nicer.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

TheArkratos said:


> Yesterday I learned that AMD reference cards are about 5mm wider than Nvidia cards. I have a RX480 reference and a Titan X (Maxwell) with EK blocks on them both. So I have to do some modding to the terminal connectors to get them to line up cleanly. So since I'm no longer buying EK blocks (if I can help it)... Do you guys do any compensation to make sure the terminal connectors end up in the same location for each card? That way they work nicely in a multi gpu set up even if cards are mismatched?
> 
> If you are curious why I'm mismatching cards, I'll be running Linux and want my most powerful card as the primary. But for virtual machines, AMD cards play nicer.



Let me start with the part that matters most: the GPU DIE. The location of the DIE on a card varies, as does the size. Since the DIE is the most important component, we focus our effort on having the optimal flow to and on the DIE area. So all other channels are routed around this. The next problem is that the RTX 20 cards have very different positions for mounting screws than the Pascal cards had. The position of those screws also dictates the possible water channels on the surface of the block. These two factors (and a few minor ones) dictate the position of the terminal block. So, setting a fixed position on the terminal block to force it into compatibility with other cards could impact flow rate and, in the worst case, even thermal performance of the block itself.
Because of this, terminal block position has almost no priority during design phase. IF it is possible to keep it compatible, we'll do so. But we won't diminish the overall performance for it.


----------



## Paprika

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Let me start with the part that matters most: the GPU DIE. The location of the DIE on a card varies, as does the size. Since the DIE is the most important component, we focus our effort on having the optimal flow to and on the DIE area. So all other channels are routed around this. The next problem is that the RTX 20 cards have very different positions for mounting screws than the Pascal cards had. The position of those screws also dictates the possible water channels on the surface of the block. These two factors (and a few minor ones) dictate the position of the terminal block. So, setting a fixed position on the terminal block to force it into compatibility with other cards could impact flow rate and, in the worst case, even thermal performance of the block itself.
> Because of this, terminal block position has almost no priority during design phase. IF it is possible to keep it compatible, we'll do so. But we won't diminish the overall performance for it.



Any info yet on where the terminal will be placed yet?
Asking for a friend who has a lot of distroplates.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Paprika said:


> Any info yet on where the terminal will be placed yet?
> Asking for a friend who has a lot of distroplates.


Still testing. We also wait for the Nvidia NV Link to arrive, so we don't run in compatibility issues with it.


I just updated our compatibility chart and wanted to address an issue that came up with the RTX20 compatibilities. We received contradicting statements about a bunch of cards, often even from the same company. We were able to get this cleared, now: 











The official Nvidia Founders Edition used only the connector, marked in green. They connected a foil cable, that went to an additional PCB inside the top cover of the cooler assembly, where it was split to the fans and the LEDs. There is no separate LED header on the card at all. Zotac and Palit seem to use this approach, as well. There are, however, two fan headers printed out on the PCB as well. On the Founders Edition, those were NOT populated - but they are populated on many AIB cards. Asus, MSI, EVGA, and Gigabyte, for example, use those fan headers. So, while you could be nit-picking that cards WITH those fan headers are not technical identical with the Founders edition and hence non-reference, you could be nit-picking even more and point out that the fan headers are prepared for on the actual PCB. Since they are printed on the reference PCB, we decided to identify those cards as "reference PCB layout" as well, and all our RTX20 waterblocks will have a cutout that takes these fan headers in consideration.


----------



## skingun

Are you still shipping on 8 October for the ACRYL Ni RGB Ti block and 15 October for the backplate?


----------



## Diffident

When can we see pictures of the RTX blocks?


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> all our RTX20 waterblocks will have a cutout that takes these fan headers in consideration.


Since you mentioned nitpicking, nothing like that, don't even own (or plan to) an RTX GPU.
But out of curiosity since it's still watercooling-related, why leave the headers accessible at all?

Usually, it's two scenarios:
1) driving GPU-centric fans
2) and/or driving 'external' fans, say your case's intake ones, so as to modulate your airflow relative to the GPU's fans' RPM.

None of which apply with a full block; right? :thinking:


----------



## empyr

Awesome Jakob, thanks for looking into it!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

skingun said:


> Are you still shipping on 8 October for the ACRYL Ni RGB Ti block and 15 October for the backplate?


We will definitely start shipping on the respective dates. We already received a lot of pre-orders, though, and we will not be able to ship all of them on the exact same date. So if you pre-order now, your shipment will be be a copupleof days later. 




Diffident said:


> When can we see pictures of the RTX blocks?


Soon™ 




Aenra said:


> Since you mentioned nitpicking, nothing like that, don't even own (or plan to) an RTX GPU.
> But out of curiosity since it's still watercooling-related, why leave the headers accessible at all?


Uh, Misunderstanding. We will not leave the fan headers accesible. As you said, they won't be needed. But we will make a cut out in the cold plate so it doesn't collide with them, so that cards that had these headers in the first place will still be compatible. They will be inaccessible and invisible under the block. 




empyr said:


> Awesome Jakob, thanks for looking into it!


Thank you for the heads up which pushed me in the right direction


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Uh, Misunderstanding ... They will be inaccessible and invisible under the block


Figures 
Thanks for replying ^^


----------



## Wally West

Now im only waiting for those waterblock 









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skingun

@Watercool-Jakob what is the thickness of the thermal pad supplied with the HEATKILLER®️ MB-X VRM ASUS X399?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

skingun said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* what is the thickness of the thermal pad supplied with the HEATKILLER®️ MB-X VRM ASUS X399?


It's 1mm thick.


----------



## YNONO

Well my system is up and running. I decided to go back to my original plan of running the tubing and it looks a little messy as it is, 
But once I go to the hard tubing I think it will look OK.
With the two 360 radiators temperatures are really good.
The other thing I will be doing when I switch too hard tubing is painting the radiators white and sleeve the cables.
OK anyhow here’s a couple pictures.


----------



## Jokesterwild

YNONO said:


> OK anyhow here’s a couple pictures.



You didn't want to run your return to the top of the res? Would have made for cleaner layout no? Nice setup though. Rest looks well thought out.


----------



## YNONO

Jokesterwild said:


> You didn't want to run your return to the top of the res? Would have made for cleaner layout no? Nice setup though. Rest looks well thought out.


Yes it would’ve been cleaner if I ran the return from the CPU directly to the RES, But if I did that then I’d miss the bottom radiator.
The flow goes from the PUMP to the GPU, GPU to the TOP RAD, TOP RAD to the CPU, CPU to the BOTTOM RAD, BOTTOM RAD to the TOP of the RES.
I did this basically to give both the GPU and CPU their own RAD.

I do understand that it really doesn’t matter by doing this, Because once the coolant is saturated. It will basically be the same Temp throughout the loop.
When I switch over to hard tubing I’m going to put temperature sensors on the outlet of the GPU/CPU and the PUMP just to see what happens.


----------



## Aenra

YNONO said:


> it really doesn’t matter


In terms of components' thermals (ie internally), no, it doesn't.
In overall terms however, it does 

For your setup, the ideal would be pump->cpu+gpu->top rad as exhaust->bottom rad as intake.
Warm air recycling is bad and should be avoided if possible.
(way you currently have it, all the heat dissipated from your CPU is going straight back into your chassis.. further affecting the performance of your top rad as well, as it sucks air from inside)


----------



## BucketInABucket

Aenra said:


> YNONO said:
> 
> 
> 
> it really doesn’t matter
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of components' thermals (ie internally), no, it doesn't.
> In overall terms however, it does /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> For your setup, the ideal would be pump->cpu+gpu->top rad as exhaust->bottom rad as intake.
> Warm air recycling is bad and should be avoided if possible.
> (way you currently have it, all the heat dissipated from your CPU is going straight back into your chassis.. further affecting the performance of your top rad as well, as it sucks air from inside)
Click to expand...

Actually it doesn't really make a difference at all. The (negligible) performance drop will be there no matter what order your components are in. If you really want to gain one or two degrees you can set both rads to intake or exhaust.


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## Biggus86

It hath arriveth... Part of my first water cooled loop. Can't wait to get going with this.


----------



## Aenra

BucketInABucket said:


> Actually it doesn't really make a difference at all


If you say so, then so it must be.
Let us all switch our rads around, have all the heat dissipated staying right inside out chassis, make a nice warm heat loop; the very purpose of water cooling in the first place, containing all the heat where it shouldn't be.

Now of course you're entitled to your own beliefs and have every right to express them. I'd only request, kindly, that you cease tagging me when doing so.


----------



## YNONO

lifeisshort117 said:


>


Ooo Shiny!!


----------



## YNONO

Aenra said:


> In terms of components' thermals (ie internally), no, it doesn't.
> In overall terms however, it does
> 
> For your setup, the ideal would be pump->cpu+gpu->top rad as exhaust->bottom rad as intake.
> Warm air recycling is bad and should be avoided if possible.
> (way you currently have it, all the heat dissipated from your CPU is going straight back into your chassis.. further affecting the performance of your top rad as well, as it sucks air from inside)


As far as looking clean (the tubing that is) I agree with you for loop order, But as far as loop temperature I have to disagree.
Once the loop reaches its saturation point the temperature at the top radiator or bottom radiator will essentially be the same.
Even in your example you're pumping hot air into the chassis from the bottom radiator.
And my radiators are bottom intake top exhaust


----------



## BucketInABucket

Aenra said:


> If you say so, then so it must be.
> Let us all switch our rads around, have all the heat dissipated staying right inside out chassis, make a nice warm heat loop; the very purpose of water cooling in the first place, containing all the heat where it shouldn't be.
> 
> Now of course you're entitled to your own beliefs and have every right to express them. I'd only request, kindly, that you cease tagging me when doing so.


As the person I quote below also says, once the loop reaches saturation, it makes no difference which direction the radiators blow air. You'll get the same kind of temperatures no matter what. It's the same reason why loop order doesn't matter in terms of heat and is only done because of practicality.

If you want to not be tagged then you should keep your opinions to yourself. That's what forums are for, after all. The sharing and discussion of opinions.



YNONO said:


> As far as looking clean (the tubing that is) I agree with you for loop order, But as far as loop temperature I have to disagree.
> Once the loop reaches its saturation point the temperature at the top radiator or bottom radiator will essentially be the same.
> Even in your example you're pumping hot air into the chassis from the bottom radiator.
> And my radiators are bottom intake top exhaust


----------



## empyr

Hey Jakob, do you happen to have the amount and sizes (width, length, thickness) of the thermal pads for the RTX Ti block and backplate?


----------



## Zammin

Wally West said:


> Now im only waiting for those waterblock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Nice, I ordered the exact same GPU with the intention of watercooling it as well. Out of curiosity, how well does the 2 slot air cooler work? I read in some thread on the EVGA forums that some guy had his hitting 75-80C in games which sounds hotter than the FE card and I thought that can't be right.. It looks more effective than the FE cooler for sure..


----------



## Wally West

Zammin said:


> Nice, I ordered the exact same GPU with the intention of watercooling it as well. Out of curiosity, how well does the 2 slot air cooler work? I read in some thread on the EVGA forums that some guy had his hitting 75-80C in games which sounds hotter than the FE card and I thought that can't be right.. It looks more effective than the FE cooler for sure..


It's really silent at idle. Mine is overclocked to +100clock +50 voltage and its not loud in games (mostly overwatch). Problem is my CPU heatsink is louder.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

I'd like to jump in on the loop order discussion:


> Warm air recycling is bad and should be avoided if possible.


That is generally true. It's always most effective to use cold, fresh, ambient air for your radiators. So the theoretical optimal layout would be to use all radiator fans as intake - but then, you'd have to equal that out with a large amount of fans as exhaust, to transport all the heat load out of the in-case-air, which makes this route impractical in reality. 



> way you currently have it, all the heat dissipated from your CPU is going straight back into your chassis..


That is wrong. All the heat from all components is going back into the chassis. The temperature difference between the hottest and coldest part of a loop is usually around 2-5°C, no matter the components (not considering loops with a seriously undersized rad-space). The running order within the loop doesn't matter, and it also doesn't really matter which rad you use as intake and which as outtake - one of them will have to deal with the pre-warmed air from the other one. The only way around that paradox is an external radiator, which has constant access to fresh ambient air and never dumps it's warmed air back into the case.


> I did this basically to give both the GPU and CPU their own RAD.


This idea FEELS logical on first sight, but it's actually not wort the hassle: as said, the temperature increase when running directly from the GPU to the CPU is so small that it will be completely unnoticeable within measuring tolerances. 



If you want to stick to internal rads, I would agree to use the bottom rad as intake, and the top rad as outtake. You could add one fan in the back, feeding in colder ambient air from outside, so the top rad is fed with slightly colder air - but the component temp gain will most likely be marginal.
If you want to optimize your tube runs, I would suggest to route from the bottom rad to the front inlet port of the reservoir. That would save you the additional tubing run on the side of the res. Functionally, it's the same, but would look cleaner, in my opinion. 







Biggus86 said:


> It hath arriveth... Part of my first water cooled loop. Can't wait to get going with this.


I always loved the bulky look of the FTW blocks! Keep us updated about your build!


----------



## Zammin

Wally West said:


> It's really silent at idle. Mine is overclocked to +100clock +50 voltage and its not loud in games (mostly overwatch). Problem is my CPU heatsink is louder.


How are the temps under 100% GPU load?


----------



## YNONO

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I'd like to jump in on the loop order discussion:
> That is generally true. It's always most effective to use cold, fresh, ambient air for your radiators. So the theoretical optimal layout would be to use all radiator fans as intake - but then, you'd have to equal that out with a large amount of fans as exhaust, to transport all the heat load out of the in-case-air, which makes this route impractical in reality.
> 
> 
> That is wrong. All the heat from all components is going back into the chassis. The temperature difference between the hottest and coldest part of a loop is usually around 2-5°C, no matter the components (not considering loops with a seriously undersized rad-space). The running order within the loop doesn't matter, and it also doesn't really matter which rad you use as intake and which as outtake - one of them will have to deal with the pre-warmed air from the other one. The only way around that paradox is an external radiator, which has constant access to fresh ambient air and never dumps it's warmed air back into the case.
> 
> This idea FEELS logical on first sight, but it's actually not wort the hassle: as said, the temperature increase when running directly from the GPU to the CPU is so small that it will be completely unnoticeable within measuring tolerances.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to stick to internal rads, I would agree to use the bottom rad as intake, and the top rad as outtake. You could add one fan in the back, feeding in colder ambient air from outside, so the top rad is fed with slightly colder air - but the component temp gain will most likely be marginal.
> If you want to optimize your tube runs, I would suggest to route from the bottom rad to the front inlet port of the reservoir. That would save you the additional tubing run on the side of the res. Functionally, it's the same, but would look cleaner, in my opinion.
> 
> 
> I agree with you about The component order.
> In one of my earlier posts I had it rigged up that way GPU/CPU/Rad/Rad/Pump Res. There’s a picture of it a couple of pages back.
> I did it this way just to be different, No other reason.
> When I switch over to hard tubing I’ll revisit the loop order and all that.
> For temperatures everything is really good during stress testing the highest temperatures I get is 50c
> on the CPU the GPU in gaming is 45c.
> We will see down the road.


----------



## Wally West

Zammin said:


> How are the temps under 100% GPU load?


75 iirc, will give you a better answer tonight.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That is wrong. All the heat from all components is going back into the chassis. The temperature difference between the hottest and coldest part of a loop is usually around 2-5°C, no matter the components


Am happy to see you say i'm right in everything else. No irony/sarcasm/gloating, just glad to see a rep stepping in and adding their input. This is an important factor in W/C loops.

Now as to this latter part i'm quoting you on.. 
i) have a K+ of wattage dissipated mere centimeters away from your motherboard, then come back to me; even the fans heat up, the very motors. So, no offense, but.. 
ii) it's not _just_ the water-cooled components inside your chassis now is it. Have said same K+ of wattage, again dissipated mere centimeters away from your motherboard, and have a look at how your NVMe drives fare; or your proffessional capture card, or your RAID array. Or more to the point, how the hardware _longevity_ thereof is affected. Hint, negatively.
Again, no offense, but..

Physics can be daunting, occasionally complicated. It is however based on pure logic.
We pay grand after grand to keep heat outside. Outside. Not inside, eternally looping it.
(this last is not directed to Jakob, but to the posters before him having had.. err, differentiating opinions)


----------



## Wally West

Zammin said:


> How are the temps under 100% GPU load?


Unigine heaven: 98% load + 75C + 2025rpm


----------



## BucketInABucket

Aenra said:


> Watercool-Jakob said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is wrong. All the heat from all components is going back into the chassis. The temperature difference between the hottest and coldest part of a loop is usually around 2-5°C, no matter the components
> 
> 
> 
> Am happy to see you say i'm right in everything else. No irony/sarcasm/gloating, just glad to see a rep stepping in and adding their input. This is an important factor in W/C loops.
> 
> Now as to this latter part i'm quoting you on..
> i) have a K+ of wattage dissipated mere centimeters away from your motherboard, then come back to me; even the fans heat up, the very motors. So, no offense, but..
> ii) it's not _just_ the water-cooled components inside your chassis now is it. Have said same K+ of wattage, again dissipated mere centimeters away from your motherboard, and have a look at how your NVMe drives fare; or your proffessional capture card, or your RAID array. Or more to the point, how the hardware _longevity_ thereof is affected. Hint, negatively.
> Again, no offense, but..
> 
> Physics can be daunting, occasionally complicated. It is however based on pure logic.
> We pay grand after grand to keep heat outside. Outside. Not inside, eternally looping it.
> (this last is not directed to Jakob, but to the posters before him having had.. err, differentiating opinions)
Click to expand...

Not sure where you got the idea that I was being in any way ironic, sarcastic or gloating.

In the end, it's incredibly hard to guess at the intentions of someone purely from looking at the style of their typing. It was not my intention to cause offence.

If you mean the water cooled components in your system heating up the rest, it depends on whether you have sufficient airflow or not.

If you do, the hot air will be a few degrees hotter than ambient at most, which won't be detrimental.

Of course, if you don't, then your entire system will get rather too toasty which I think we all agree is a bad thing.


----------



## Zammin

Wally West said:


> Unigine heaven: 98% load + 75C + 2025rpm


Thanks man


----------



## YNONO

BucketInABucket said:


> Not sure where you got the idea that I was being in any way ironic, sarcastic or gloating.
> 
> In the end, it's incredibly hard to guess at the intentions of someone purely from looking at the style of their typing. It was not my intention to cause offence.
> 
> If you mean the water cooled components in your system heating up the rest, it depends on whether you have sufficient airflow or not.
> 
> If you do, the hot air will be a few degrees hotter than ambient at most, which won't be detrimental.
> 
> Of course, if you don't, then your entire system will get rather too toasty which I think we all agree is a bad thing.


I agree,, I don't get it.


----------



## GAN77

Hi guys!

Do Watercool have discount coupons?)


----------



## BucketInABucket

AM HYPE


----------



## skingun

Patiently waiting for pictures of the new 2080 Ti waterblock...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> Do Watercool have discount coupons?)


There is no public discount promotion active at the moment. 




BucketInABucket said:


> AM HYPE


Oh, I love this case so much! Thanks for sharing, and have fun with your build!




skingun said:


> Patiently waiting for pictures of the new 2080 Ti waterblock...


 Yup. We all are 


No, to be serious: the blocks are at the photographer's studio atm. I'll post the pics as soon as possible.


----------



## Aenra

This might have been mentioned, in which case my apologies;

I was looking for fittings the other day and saw you're out of stock; Barrow ones anyway. Is there an ETA you could share?


----------



## skingun

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, to be serious: the blocks are at the photographer's studio atm. I'll post the pics as soon as possible.



Awesome


----------



## snef

still a lot of work to do but some pics to give an idea where im going

https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222864&thumb=1

https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222868&thumb=1

https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222866&thumb=1


----------



## skingun

@snef nice work! Would love to see what's going on under the top cover.


----------



## Zammin

snef said:


> still a lot of work to do but some pics to give an idea where im going
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222864&thumb=1
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222868&thumb=1
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222866&thumb=1


Is that a Maximus XI Formula? are they for sale already? I cant find any Z390 boards for sale here in Australia except some low end Gigabyte boards.

Wicked looking build btw.


----------



## khemist

Zammin said:


> Is that a Maximus XI Formula? are they for sale already? I cant find any Z390 boards for sale here in Australia except some low end Gigabyte boards.
> 
> Wicked looking build btw.



https://www.scan.co.uk/products/asu...3-dual-m2-2-way-sli-3-way-crossfire-5gbe-wifi

For sale in the UK.


----------



## snef

Zammin said:


> Is that a Maximus XI Formula? are they for sale already? I cant find any Z390 boards for sale here in Australia except some low end Gigabyte boards.
> 
> Wicked looking build btw.



thanks

yes, its a Maximus XI Formula, no they are not on sale but they will soon 

edit: available on some online store


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> This might have been mentioned, in which case my apologies;
> 
> I was looking for fittings the other day and saw you're out of stock; Barrow ones anyway. Is there an ETA you could share?


The last I was told by Barrow are 2-3 weeks. 




snef said:


> still a lot of work to do but some pics to give an idea where im going


Wow....Snef, this build is really beautiful! And the BLACK COPPER block works perfectly with the color scheme! Love it, thanks for sharing!


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The last I was told by Barrow are 2-3 weeks


Thanks Jakob 
Will wait, lol..


----------



## Matt-Matt

Hey guys,

I haven't really posted here much in the last few years, however just saw this in the active feed and thought I'd show off my Heatkiller 115x 3.0.

Likely going to sell it for a monoblock soon for a z390 board or similar. I am not set on that however.

It's done me well on my 3570k and now 3770k, both de-lidded.

Do Heatkiller make/plan to make Monoblocks at all? I'd be really keen on that.


----------



## GAN77

I did not wait for live photos Water Blocks for RTX 2080Ti. And the discount for pre-order was canceled (


----------



## Jokesterwild

Aenra said:


> This might have been mentioned, in which case my apologies;
> 
> I was looking for fittings the other day and saw you're out of stock; Barrow ones anyway. Is there an ETA you could share?


depending on what you are looking for darkside is the exact same as barrow and you can buy them from dazmode in Canada


----------



## Aenra

Jokesterwild said:


> and you can buy them from dazmode in Canada


Darkside _is_ Dazmode ^^
And no, you can't; no international shipping.
(mailed him to ask once, he won't make exceptions, even for big shipments)

As i keep saying to folks, contrary to common understanding? This planet has many, many countries, only one of which happens to be the US.
I do thank you for the pointer however, much obliged


----------



## Zammin

Aenra said:


> As i keep saying to folks, contrary to common understanding? This planet has many, many countries, only one of which happens to be the US.


Man, I feel ya. It's becoming increasingly difficult to get high end enthusiast stuff here in Australia too. When it comes to watercooling, the only brands that are stocked locally is mostly EKWB and Thermaltake, with a few odd bits and pieces from XSPC and Phanteks. Many places do not ship outside of the US and Canada, and with a change in our laws recently (applying GST and import duties to all purchases outside of Australia, not just over $1000) many businesses have either cut down their range for Aus (for example Newegg) or stopped shipping to us all together. Amazon.com no longer ships to Australia, they started Amazon.com.au which has literally a tiny fraction of the range that the US site has and the prices are outrageous in almost every instance (we're talking often more than double for stuff brought over from the US).

I know some countries have it worse, but I totally get it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Matt-Matt said:


> Do Heatkiller make/plan to make Monoblocks at all? I'd be really keen on that.


We have no set schedule to do so. But since the question comes reappearing, we are open for it. As soon as the RTX20 blocks are fully done with, we will reevaluate.




GAN77 said:


> I did not wait for live photos Water Blocks for RTX 2080Ti. And the discount for pre-order was canceled (


The pre-order discount was valid till10/8, so it ended as planned on Monday. 




Zammin said:


> Man, I feel ya. It's becoming increasingly difficult to get high end enthusiast stuff here in Australia too. When it comes to watercooling, the only brands that are stocked locally is mostly EKWB and Thermaltake, with a few odd bits and pieces from XSPC and Phanteks.


I might be able to help in this regard: we started a cooperation with Mwave! They carry a small range of our products since July! If you want something they don't currently carry, please feel free to contact them directly and ask for it, we'd be happy to expand their product range


----------



## Aenra

Zammin said:


> Amazon.com no longer ships to Australia


Ouch.. irrelevant, but you wouldn't happen to know why, would you?



Watercool-Jakob said:


> re: monoblocks. We have no set schedule to do so. But since the question comes reappearing, we are open for it


Please do; sometimes, it's all the difference in the world. 
A.. ah.. certain competitor of yours, has noticeably lower quality components, with measurably worse temps. But when said temp differential is a few measly Celsius?
What do i do if on a board that has poor VRM cooling?

- Buy your universal blocks and try find my way with them, extra tubing and fittings included? Or rather, not included?
- Or buy a monoblock and call it a day? Few Cs higher won't change anything for my CPU clocks or longevity, but 20Cs lower on the VRM sure does. And at no extra cost too.

Obviously, yeah, for you it's also a matter of ROI. But if you think you can have one (return that is), please do reconsider it.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I might be able to help in this regard: we started a cooperation with Mwave! They carry a small range of our products since July! If you want something they don't currently carry, please feel free to contact them directly and ask for it, we'd be happy to expand their product range


Thanks Jakob. I did see that announced on Mwave's Facebook page recently. It's a small range but definitely a step in the right direction. I should probably call them and ask if they can bring in some of your products that aren't listed on their site, such as the 2080Ti blocks once they become available. 



Aenra said:


> Ouch.. irrelevant, but you wouldn't happen to know why, would you?


They stopped shipping to Australia as soon as Amazon.com.au came online. I'm not really sure why they chose to shut us out and leave us with the super tiny AU Amazon site, but if I had to guess it might have something to do with the recent changes to our stupid laws. It's such a bummer. Every time I search for stuff online Amazon links come up but it's always the US Amazon.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Its only a self impossed AMAZON Action - They didnt want to incur handling costs of processing collection the GST tax on behalf of the sellers forwarding the payment to Australian govt.

Freight fowarders are your freinds in this instance if desperate for giving your harf earned mula to Amazon.

Just buy direct where you can.





Zammin said:


> Watercool-Jakob said:
> 
> 
> 
> I might be able to help in this regard: we started a cooperation with Mwave! They carry a small range of our products since July! If you want something they don't currently carry, please feel free to contact them directly and ask for it, we'd be happy to expand their product range /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Jakob. I did see that announced on Mwave's Facebook page recently. It's a small range but definitely a step in the right direction. I should probably call them and ask if they can bring in some of your products that aren't listed on their site, such as the 2080Ti blocks once they become available.
> 
> 
> 
> Aenra said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch.. irrelevant, but you wouldn't happen to know why, would you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They stopped shipping to Australia as soon as Amazon.com.au came online. I'm not really sure why they chose to shut us out and leave us with the super tiny AU Amazon site, but if I had to guess it might have something to do with the recent changes to our stupid laws. It's such a bummer. Every time I search for stuff online Amazon links come up but it's always the US Amazon. /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
Click to expand...


----------



## Zammin

4WDBenio said:


> Its only a self impossed AMAZON Action - They didnt want to incur handling costs of processing collection the GST tax on behalf of the sellers forwarding the payment to Australian govt.
> 
> Freight fowarders are your freinds in this instance if desperate for giving your harf earned mula to Amazon.
> 
> Just buy direct where you can.


Yeah it all started happening (including Newegg massively cutting their range for Aus customers) around the time the $1000 threshold for GST on overseas purchases was lifted. I saved a fair bit buying stuff from Newegg and Amazon, sadly not anymore.

Sorry for momentarily derailing this thread haha.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Aenra said:


> Ouch.. irrelevant, but you wouldn't happen to know why, would you?


It's due to taxes, Australia recently started import taxes on goods under $1,000 AUD.

So before if I ordered a GTX1070 for $500 US it'd just be the card + shipping.
Now it's the $500 for the card, shipping and 10% tax.

A few places have just stopped selling to Australia totally, Amazon does have Amazon.com.au but it is nowhere near as good unfortunately.

There are postal forwarding places, like hop shop go that are very good however.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> We have no set schedule to do so. But since the question comes reappearing, we are open for it. As soon as the RTX20 blocks are fully done with, we will reevaluate.
> 
> The pre-order discount was valid till10/8, so it ended as planned on Monday.
> 
> I might be able to help in this regard: we started a cooperation with Mwave! They carry a small range of our products since July! If you want something they don't currently carry, please feel free to contact them directly and ask for it, we'd be happy to expand their product range


Nice! That's good to know, I've never personally used Mwave, but a few friends have.

Yeah that's fair enough, it IS a lot of R&D + Risk for blocks like that, especially given how many boards there are and that it'd have to specifically fit.

I mean at this point (dare I say) that I'll be going with an EK Monoblock and an Asus Strix board as that's the only choice it seems.


----------



## Zammin

Matt-Matt said:


> It's due to taxes, Australia recently started import taxes on goods under $1,000 AUD.
> 
> So before if I ordered a GTX1070 for $500 US it'd just be the card + shipping.
> Now it's the $500 for the card, shipping and 10% tax.
> 
> A few places have just stopped selling to Australia totally, Amazon does have Amazon.com.au but it is nowhere near as good unfortunately.
> 
> There are postal forwarding places, like hop shop go that are very good however.


I had not looked into forwarding services previously but I might start checking them out now. Thanks for the recommendation, do you know if we avoid GST by using hop shop? Or will we still get charged once the item reaches Aus?


----------



## chibi

snef said:


> still a lot of work to do but some pics to give an idea where im going
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222864&thumb=1
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222868&thumb=1
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=222866&thumb=1



Hey snef, what radiator is that in the front?


----------



## Aenra

Am too old for this, lol.. i had to google hop shop ^^


----------



## Jokesterwild

Aenra said:


> Darkside _is_ Dazmode ^^
> And no, you can't; no international shipping.
> (mailed him to ask once, he won't make exceptions, even for big shipments)
> 
> As i keep saying to folks, contrary to common understanding? This planet has many, many countries, only one of which happens to be the US.
> I do thank you for the pointer however, much obliged


Yes, I know he is darkside. been buying from him for years. As a Canadian, I wasn't aware he didn't ship to other countries. That's unfortunate and seems like an oversight on his part imo.


----------



## Zammin

Hey Jakob

I'm not sure if you're allowed to disclose this info yet, but I was wondering how many microchannels the Heatkiller blocks for the 2080Ti have? I'm considering cancelling my order on the EK Vector (29 Microchannels) since more options are popping up, I'm debating whether to get the Alphacool block (35 microchannels), the Heatkiller block or the upcoming Aquacomputer one in November (40 microchannels, but short).

These new GPUs seem to run hotter than Pascal so I'm down for whatever will give me the best results. I love the aesthetic of the last generation of Heatkiller blocks and I'm very interested in the new one. Can't wait for pics!


----------



## Zammin

I contacted Mwave today and from what the guy said it doesn't sound like they are intending to bring in the Heatkiller 2080Ti blocks, at least in the near future.. Damn.

Interestingly when I said Heatkiller he initially thought it was an EKWB product... :/


----------



## Matt-Matt

Zammin said:


> I had not looked into forwarding services previously but I might start checking them out now. Thanks for the recommendation, do you know if we avoid GST by using hop shop? Or will we still get charged once the item reaches Aus?


Yes, HopShopGo will tax you based on what you specify the price as.

I ordered some car parts (Shipping to Australia was exorbant) and saved around $80 USD by combining two orders.

I _could_ have specified lower values, but I believe that it can cause issues with Customs + HopShopGo in that case if it was found out.

I just specified the USD values without shipping.

Back on-topic.

I'm super keen to see some Monoblocks, can my vote for this count as two?


----------



## Zammin

Matt-Matt said:


> Yes, HopShopGo will tax you based on what you specify the price as.
> 
> I ordered some car parts (Shipping to Australia was exorbant) and saved around $80 USD by combining two orders.
> 
> I _could_ have specified lower values, but I believe that it can cause issues with Customs + HopShopGo in that case if it was found out.
> 
> I just specified the USD values without shipping.


I see. Thanks for the info man.


----------



## Aenra

Jokesterwild said:


> I wasn't aware he didn't ship to other countries. That's unfortunate and seems like an oversight on his part imo.


Nuh, nothing like that.
It's time and money, that's all. Depending on how much product you need to 'move' and how fast, the logistics can be quite restrictive; as a buyer, you think 'click, pay, logout', but as a retailer, it's a lot more involved before you're at a point where the client can do this. Time and money


----------



## skingun

Pictures are up!!!

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15620


----------



## Jokesterwild

Picked up the HEATKILLER IV PRO HWLuxx Edition, love how it looks. Fits with the style of my build. Had the black acetal top block before.


----------



## Strokin3s

Does anyone know how to switch off the tops for the CPU Block? I bought the :

HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) COPPER NI

but I decided I want the clear top so i can see the liquid which is why I bought the acryl top seperately so I can swap it out.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Strokin3s said:


> Does anyone know how to switch off the tops for the CPU Block? I bought the :
> 
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) COPPER NI
> 
> but I decided I want the clear top so i can see the liquid which is why I bought the acryl top seperately so I can swap it out.


super easy, on the bottom are the four bolts that hold the block together. once you take those out the top and base come apart. Careful that you ensure the o-ring is properly in place when putting the new top on.


----------



## BucketInABucket

So I ran Prime95 with the 'small FFTs' option for over an hour...max my R5 2600 peaked at is 54c with water at 34c so far...damn impressive!


----------



## snef

chibi said:


> Hey snef, what radiator is that in the front?



its a Watercool HTSF2 3x120 LTX 
i think its the best quality i ever saw, i just love it
the quality of the rad is just........no word to describe hahahaha



and now some teaser


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

We are happy and proud to finally show of the first pics of our HEATKILLER for RTX 2080Ti:




























As you can see, this block uses the biggest coldplate we ever used on a block for single GPU card. This is due to Nvidia's new power delivery technology which uses additional components. These components require cooling, according to Nvidia, so we obviously won't simply ignore them. Please find the drawing of thermal pad placement below to get an idea of just HOW MANY parts of the card are integrated into our cooling solution. The huge coldplate (which weighs 800g of pure copper!) also spreads to all edges of the card's PCB, delivering a smooth and edgeless look from all angles. But we also improved our DIE cooling engine: on overclocked cards under stress tests, we reached a DeltaT from DIE to water from only 10K. We are looking forward to your opinions on the design, and your test results!














P.S.: Pics from the Nickel plated versions, including RGB lit pics, will follow in ~1 week.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are happy and proud to finally show of the first pics of our HEATKILLER for RTX 2080Ti


Looks great!


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are happy and proud to finally show of the first pics of our HEATKILLER for RTX 2080Ti:


Looks fantastic! Looking forward to seeing the black/nickel pics.


----------



## Barefooter

That block looks fantastic :thumb:

Can't wait to order a pair of the nickel plated ones!


----------



## skingun

Shipping still happening for nickel blocks tomorrow?


----------



## empyr

skingun said:


> Shipping still happening for nickel blocks tomorrow?



Doesn't look like it. Didn't get any order update today.


----------



## skingun

I've been following. I placed my pre order the day they went live. Hoping for a delivery in time for the weekend.
@Watercool-Jakob is there a problem with manufacture?


----------



## skingun

Anyone heard anything re the nickel plated 2080 Ti blocks? Shipping was supposed to be from Monday. No stock on the website. Sent an email to support but had no reply.


----------



## empyr

skingun said:


> Anyone heard anything re the nickel plated 2080 Ti blocks? Shipping was supposed to be from Monday. No stock on the website. Sent an email to support but had no reply.


Nope, haven't heard anything. Jakob haven't been on here since the 15th either. 

Maybe they're having some issues with the Nickel last minute. Would be nice if they would update their customers though.


----------



## skingun

Agreed. Don't mind waiting. Don't like not being updated.

Edit: I've reluctantly placed an order for 2x Bitspower Lotan blocks.


----------



## Vlada011

I always mixed 3 brands, Alphacool, Aqua Computer and Watercooling.de.
Special Aqua Computer and Watercooling.de...

Who make highest quality products, between them... on first look I think Watercool.de
With big flaw, D5 Body is visible on every part. If they fix that detail as EK...
EK lead in D5 section with covered body and small Revo parts easy to fit everywhere, 
but Watercool.de make insane DDC Heatkiller 100 Tube closed completely.


----------



## empyr

Still nothing. Very interesting way of going about things.


----------



## SoMBrA

Thought I would share this with you.
I live in Europe and my 2080 Ti Ni RGB was shipped today. I did try to contact Jakob days ago for an update but didn't get any answer, I guess they are busy with the launch (it happend last time with the TR4 blocks which I also bought months ago!)

Will update when arrives home


----------



## empyr

SoMBrA said:


> Thought I would share this with you.
> I live in Europe and my 2080 Ti Ni RGB was shipped today. I did try to contact Jakob days ago for an update but didn't get any answer, I guess they are busy with the launch (it happend last time with the TR4 blocks which I also bought months ago!)
> 
> Will update when arrives home



Thats nice to hear. When did you order exactly? I'm from Europe too and i ordered the day they went up on the site and i have yet to see any order update.


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

The fact that none of the nickel plated blocks are having their design shown as a preview means they are likely overwhelmed with orders to be shipped. Add the possibility that Jakob might simply be ill and a "smallish" company like Watercool might have their hands full for a couple of weeks.


----------



## SoMBrA

empyr said:


> Thats nice to hear. When did you order exactly? I'm from Europe too and i ordered the day they went up on the site and i have yet to see any order update.


As soon as they were available 
I really wanted to complete my "Heatkiller" build and I did the mistake of buying a non reference 1080Ti, had a hard time finding a Waterblock for it.


----------



## Vlada011

Heatkiller have only one flaw, before several weeks I talk with them and recommended them to close D5 Body with one part.
And they think about that to cover body of D5 on heatkiller tube and D5 Top.
They somehow improve body of D5 with stainless steal part, but not whole. 
From other side EK D5 Body on Revo is hidden completely.

Same part should keep D5 on place and cover body of D5, similar as DDC Tube variant. 
Heatkiller advantage is because you can buy Tube only 79$, and example D5 Top 40$. If you don't like you sell D5 Top Heatkiller and buy bottom part for Heatkiller Tube for D5 30$. After 2 years you build small case, you remove D5 Bottom and add DDC bottom. Or add multi port top.
No RGB you add RGB strap, replace struts in silver/aluminium or red. 
From that side is very good and adjustable.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

empyr said:


> Nope, haven't heard anything. Jakob haven't been on here since the 15th either.


Hey guys,
I'm sorry, I was out of office last week to take care of some family affairs that needed my attention and forgot to let you know. I'll try to post an out-of-office note next time again  



As for the launch dates: I just updated all availability dates on all product pages for the RTX 2080 and RTX 2080Ti blocks and backplate. 

The bottom line is: since most people ordered a 2080Ti block and a backplate, they will get their orders starting next Monday. For those with a 2080block, it will unfortunately take a little while longer. 



We are aware that this situation is frustrating for people, and be assured, it is frustrating for us, as well. There were several delays in this product launch, starting at Nvidia themselves, and reaching down to a number of partners and subcontractors, which led to the situation at hand. We are deeply grateful to all people who put their trust in our product and pre-ordered "blindly", and we apologize for the delays. Since we are already within the production cycle, we are very confident that the now given ETAs will be final.


----------



## Neville0

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> We are aware that this situation is frustrating for people, and be assured, it is frustrating for us, as well. There were several delays in this product launch, starting at Nvidia themselves, and reaching down to a number of partners and subcontractors, which led to the situation at hand. We are deeply grateful to all people who put their trust in our product and pre-ordered "blindly", and we apologize for the delays. Since we are already within the production cycle, we are very confident that the now given ETAs will be final.


That's good to hear that all the issues have been fixed. I hope that all the worldwide resellers got the updated eta as well so hopefully that is final as well.


----------



## Vlada011

Watercool-Jakob...

I think it's time to Watercool hide body of D5 pumps on Heatkiller D5 Top and Heatkiller D5 Tube.
That's possible to build on several way.

This Silver part for holding pump is best way for mount D5 to the top. Most durable.
But could be build to cover D5 same part and only to have hole on back side for wires or manual control of D5 Vario.










I'm not sure why I don't like to separate pump and reservoir because this top and heatkiller tube 100 would be my first choice.
But combo are somehow attractive for me. And watercool should offer some fittings on their site, not Barrow "clones".

Koolance example new series, FIT-V10X13-BK and FIT-V10X13, FIT-L10X13, ADT-DXG45.
Old school reliable manufacturer.

And little better availability on Caseking.de, I think half East Europe supply from them and they are weak with spare parts.

This D5 Top I posted have some option to sit on 120mm fan place or radiator?


----------



## GAN77

Vlada011 said:


> Watercool-Jakob...
> 
> 
> This D5 Top I posted have some option to sit on 120mm fan place or radiator?


You need to add EK-Revo D5 Pump Mount+EK UNI Pump Bracket 120mm FAN Vertical. 
Below is an example for Aquacomputer D5 Top


----------



## Vlada011

Uuuuuu... that's one amazing Hybrid.
That' could be mount even on Sentinel 4 D5 Top.
I have EK Uni Bracket. 

Aqualis is nice series, old but effective.
Aqualis glass have thread on top and bottom?


----------



## GAN77

Vlada011 said:


> Aqualis is nice series, old but effective.
> Aqualis glass have thread on top and bottom?



No, i used Aqualis micro for pump adapters 165 ml art. 34083 and Pump adapter for D5 pumps art. 41094. 
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3265

I build an external radiator with a pump).


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Vlada011 said:


> Watercool-Jakob...
> 
> I think it's time to Watercool hide body of D5 pumps on Heatkiller D5 Top and Heatkiller D5 Tube.
> That's possible to build on several way.


Keep in mind that by now, the d5 next from Aquacomputer needs an exposed pump body to be compatible with the heatkiller tube. So whatever may be the solution for your request, it needs to be optional.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Vlada011 said:


> I think it's time to Watercool hide body of D5 pumps on Heatkiller D5 Top and Heatkiller D5 Tube.
> That's possible to build on several way.


Thanks for the input. We'll keep it on our to-do list for future revisions. We have no immediate plans to put something like this in place right now.




> And watercool should offer some fittings on their site, not Barrow "clones".
> 
> Koolance example new series, FIT-V10X13-BK and FIT-V10X13, FIT-L10X13, ADT-DXG45.
> Old school reliable manufacturer.


We started to list Barrow this January, after discussing and sampling with many different fitting manufacturers. We are happy with the price structure and quality of Barrow original fittings, and have currently no plan to change the manufacturer any time soon.




> And little better availability on Caseking.de, I think half East Europe supply from them and they are weak with spare parts.


Please feel free to contact Caseking directly about this, and feel free to request specific parts from them.
Apart from that, we will have a more closely relationship in the future and are looking forward to expand our lineup in their shop. 





> This D5 Top I posted have some option to sit on 120mm fan place or radiator?


No, the hole patterns do not align at all.


----------



## Vlada011

I must say I made mistake, German quality is famous in world, even more in Europe, in almost every section of industry.
I made mistake because Alphacool as German brands didn't look me as real German quality and than I didn't pay attention on Watercool.de at all.
Or even Aqua Computer, but Watercool are little nicer I think.
Now I have impression that Waterool is real German quality.

Jakob maybe have right, Koolance fittings have different G 1/4 threads I know for that from 2014-2015 only I was not sure why their fittings need their radiators. 
I'm more for these fittings...

Who sell this kind of fittings, I think they are more affordable but reliable as all others more expensive and these little part below fittings is part of complete or should be bought later.










I would never used D5 Next, personaly look me as toy and I have such impression that everything could finish as VP755.
Best possible if D5 Laing original is available. 

This is 3/8 thread but because top is not necessary you have Laing D5. But price is 200$










or 1/2 140$

https://www.amazon.de/Laing-D5-Pump..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=Z48NM053D3270NEFCFQF

My EK D5 G2 PWM you can't hear below 50%, after that you start to hear and become really loud.
On 3 speed ruin whole watercooling silence. And I notice many people say EK D5 Vario Lowara non PWM is better choice.
Anyway I need backup pump, and immediately when I buy new non PWM I will make video of my pump at the moment to see how much is loud.


----------



## Solarity

I am curious if a Heatkiller VRM cooler for a Sabertooth z77 can be easily modified to fit different boards? It looks like the top of the block sits on a 1/8" sheet of copper that has been cut and to match the Sabertooth z77 board. I assume that the blocks are sealed with a black rubber gasket and are just fasten with the screws that were counter sunk in the copper cool plate to the block. I am looking at mounting this to my Z370 Gaming 7 if possible. One block measures 120mm the other is 100mm.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Solarity said:


> I am curious if a Heatkiller VRM cooler for a Sabertooth z77 can be easily modified to fit different boards? It looks like the top of the block sits on a 1/8" sheet of copper that has been cut and to match the Sabertooth z77 board. I assume that the blocks are sealed with a black rubber gasket and are just fasten with the screws that were counter sunk in the copper cool plate to the block. I am looking at mounting this to my Z370 Gaming 7 if possible. One block measures 120mm the other is 100mm.


We sell this system as universal blocks. You'll have to measure your motherboard and cut the copper coldplate to fit your specific board layout. And yes, obviously the tops are sealed witthgaskets against the coldplate.


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> [...]
> 
> The bottom line is: since most people ordered a 2080Ti block and a backplate, they will get their orders starting next Monday. For those with a 2080block, it will unfortunately take a little while longer.
> 
> [...]we are very confident that the now given ETAs will be final.


The ETA for the Acrylic Black Nickel block changed once more. While not affected, what about the backplate? Do we have to expect that availability will be postponed once more?


----------



## Vlada011

I wait in Monday new Graphic card to arrive than I will sell my GPU and I want to change some watercooling parts I made mistake.
Nemesis GTX 360 radiator and maybe Heatkiller Tube. I'm not sure now D5 Tube or Tube + D5 Top. Mounting options play big role.
Later when everything is finish I will explain why.
I'm sorry because I didn't choose Watercool immediately because probably I would finish loop before month.
It's true that I didn't notice them, Alphacool make me to doubt in German quality because looking their video clips and pictures doesn't look durable and quality at all, maybe that's wrong imnpression but when I saw Heatkiller I start to thought this is real deal. 
And I didn't know that one seller could bring me everything from Caseking, bought everything from EKWB and made mistake.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

I have a Heatkiller IV Pro for my delided 8700K and I wonder if it is possible to put Liquid Metal paste (Conductonaut) between the Heatkiller IV Pro and the IHS. Could this be dangerous for the block? 

Many thanks in advance!


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

The LM will react with the block, yes. While not necessarily causing a negative effect it will "pit" the block, causing microcratering.


----------



## MoDeNa

Fitzcaraldo said:


> The LM will react with the block, yes. While not necessarily causing a negative effect it will "pit" the block, causing microcratering.


Ops, so then I forget about that... will keep going with the kryonaut. 


I guess it happens the same for the IHS with the LM between the die and the IHS...


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Yes, that also happens there. But as these components usually are not meant to be separated again, any kind of microcratering isn't going to cause much of an issue.


----------



## empyr

So Jakob, what's with the backplates, are you having a tough time meeting the demands / huge backlog of orders to do?


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Backplates are considered in stock, so the orders should go out this week


----------



## GAN77

I need a photo HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti ACETAL Ni Prod. no.: 15624 (Chemically nickel plated copper coldplate, black acetal top)


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a Heatkiller IV Pro for my delided 8700K and I wonder if it is possible to put Liquid Metal paste (Conductonaut) between the Heatkiller IV Pro and the IHS. Could this be dangerous for the block?
> 
> Many thanks in advance!


A pure Copper block will be damaged by liquid metal over time. If yu use a nickel plated blocks, you should be fine.




empyr said:


> So Jakob, what's with the backplates, are you having a tough time meeting the demands / huge backlog of orders to do?


The backplates FINALLY came back from the plating company today. We start shipping all backplate orders today and try to get through the backlog asap. 

The black front plates for the Black Nickel version of the 2080Ti block also came back today and start shipping today.
The copper versions of the 2080 blocks are also available since today.
The nickel versions of the 2080blocks will take ~7-10 days, then the whole lineup is comppletely available. 




GAN77 said:


> I need a photo HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti ACETAL Ni Prod. no.: 15624 (Chemically nickel plated copper coldplate, black acetal top)


We will provide pictures for all blocks as soon as possible.


----------



## MoDeNa

Watercool-Jakob said:


> A pure Copper block will be damaged by liquid metal over time. If yu use a nickel plated blocks, you should be fine.
> 
> ...


The CPU waterblock I have is this one

Then, can I use Conductonaut between the IHS and my CPU block without cause damage to the CPU waterblock? Apologies to insist, but I need to be 100% sure.


Many thanks for your answer


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*

Thank you for your reply!


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The backplates FINALLY came back from the plating company today. We start shipping all backplate orders today and try to get through the backlog asap.
> 
> The black front plates for the Black Nickel version of the 2080Ti block also came back today and start shipping today.
> The copper versions of the 2080 blocks are also available since today.
> The nickel versions of the 2080blocks will take ~7-10 days, then the whole lineup is comppletely available.


Are you still planning on eventually having nickel plated backplates? 

I need two please


----------



## SoMBrA

Barefooter said:


> Are you still planning on eventually having nickel plated backplates?
> 
> I need two please


One for me please! 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

MoDeNa said:


> The CPU waterblock I have is this one
> 
> Then, can I use Conductonaut between the IHS and my CPU block without cause damage to the CPU waterblock? Apologies to insist, but I need to be 100% sure.
> 
> 
> Many thanks for your answer


That block has a nickelplated coldplate, so you should be safe to go, according to our knowledge. If you need to be 100% certain, please conduct the manufacturer of the thermal compound in question - I can only speak for OUR product, not theirs  





Barefooter said:


> Are you still planning on eventually having nickel plated backplates?
> 
> I need two please





SoMBrA said:


> One for me please!


I hear you  Yes, still on the "planned to do soon" list. No ETA yet, but since we didn't get samples back, I personally doubt that they would become available to end customers in 2018.


----------



## MoDeNa

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That block has a nickelplated coldplate, so you should be safe to go, according to our knowledge. If you need to be 100% certain, please conduct the manufacturer of the thermal compound in question - I can only speak for OUR product, not theirs
> 
> ...


Understood! Many thanks Jakob for your help. It is much appreciated


----------



## empyr

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The backplates FINALLY came back from the plating company today. We start shipping all backplate orders today and try to get through the backlog asap.



Good to hear, thank you


----------



## Vlada011

Did customers or testing lab recognize significant difference between Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper and Heatkiller IV Pro Acetal.
They are same look but one cost 20 more.

Black Copper is 90 euro
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18034

Acetal is 70 euro
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18005

RGB should die.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> RGB should die.


Lol that was very blunt


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Vlada011 said:


> Did customers or testing lab recognize significant difference between Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper and Heatkiller IV Pro Acetal.
> They are same look but one cost 20 more.
> 
> Black Copper is 90 euro
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18034
> 
> Acetal is 70 euro
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18005
> 
> RGB should die.


The coldplate as the deciding factor is the same, therefore you are paying for aesthetics. Your choice.
And yes, RGB must die. Rainbow barfing builds are a disgrace.


----------



## Vlada011

You think aesthetic is difference, to me they look same.
Maybe I didn't pay attention. 
In such situation I usually buy model with little higher price if they are similar look.


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

They look indeed similar but they are actually very different. One is blackened copper which looks and feels different from acetal. The other is acetal. Coloured metal vs "plastic".


----------



## Vlada011

Thank you on explanation, I believe Caseking.de will have soon Black Copper on stock. Now they have only Acetal version from my link.
I never sorry to pay nice CPU block. It's true that for this platform I have block. But for next CPU Block is max I could buy.
Black Copper is definitely better than.


----------



## Okt00

The Black Copper is very nice looking. I might have to go for that over the HWLuxx edition... 

Anyone have any experience ordering direct from Watercool ( http://shop.watercool.de ) to Canada? 

I was going to order from our Canadian water-cooling shop DazMode, but the inventory selection isn't too hot at the moment for the items I'm after.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Vlada011 said:


> Did customers or testing lab recognize significant difference between Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper and Heatkiller IV Pro Acetal.
> They are same look but one cost 20 more.
> 
> Black Copper is 90 euro
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18034
> 
> Acetal is 70 euro
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18005
> 
> RGB should die.



The BLACK COPPER is a top milled out of a solid piece of copper. It is then plated with black nickel. The Acetal version is just... well, Acetal :> So it's basically the budget version, since it's "only" a plastic top.
They do look different in reality, though: the BLACK COPPER version still has the metal shine to it where the Acetal top is simply matte plastic. So the BLAC COPPER top will still reflect and break light. ALso, it's not completely black, it's more like a very very dark grey - JUST before true black
And finally, the Copper top obviously helps in spreading the heat and transferring it to the medium: it usually has slightly better performance (around 0.5 to 1K).




Okt00 said:


> Anyone have any experience ordering direct from Watercool ( http://shop.watercool.de ) to Canada?
> 
> I was going to order from our Canadian water-cooling shop DazMode, but the inventory selection isn't too hot at the moment for the items I'm after.


I have - we do that all the time  What exactly is your question about? We ship to Canada for 29.95€, free shipping for orders above 400€. We ship with FedEx, they usually take 4-5 business days from Germany to Canada.


----------



## Zammin

Hey I noticed the Heatkiller RTX blocks are now listed on Aquatuning AU, the prices are really good although they don't have an ETA for when they will have stock.

http://www.au.aquatuning.com/water-...killer-iv-for-rtx-2080-ti-acryl-ni-rgb?c=7187

I was wondering why the prices are so much lower than the Watercool direct online outlet? For the product linked above, the price on the Watercool shop is 134.95€ which is about $214 AUD plus around $60 shipping, but the same product through Aquatuning is $168 AUD and only $9 for shipping. I mean this is great news for us Australians since normally overseas shipping is an absolute killer, but it puzzles me how there can be such a large difference in cost.

They don't have the back plates listed though which is unfortunate, hopefully they will list them in the future when they actually have stock of the waterblocks. To be honest I don't really like dealing with Aquatuning but when there is such a large difference in total cost it's too good to pass up.


----------



## Vlada011

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The BLACK COPPER is a top milled out of a solid piece of copper. It is then plated with black nickel. The Acetal version is just... well, Acetal :> So it's basically the budget version, since it's "only" a plastic top.
> They do look different in reality, though: the BLACK COPPER version still has the metal shine to it where the Acetal top is simply matte plastic. So the BLAC COPPER top will still reflect and break light. ALso, it's not completely black, it's more like a very very dark grey - JUST before true black
> And finally, the Copper top obviously helps in spreading the heat and transferring it to the medium: it usually has slightly better performance (around 0.5 to 1K).
> 
> 
> 
> I have - we do that all the time  What exactly is your question about? We ship to Canada for 29.95€, free shipping for orders above 400€. We ship with FedEx, they usually take 4-5 business days from Germany to Canada.



Thank you Watercool, you won my attention. 
Black Copper or nothing. You only should courage Caseking.de for better supplies with details.
No mounting mechanisms, no D5 Top, no premium IV Pro Black Copper, no aluminium parts for Heatkiller tube...


----------



## isabirov

@Watercool-Jakob, Hi Jakob.
You should really consider making small form factor HK tube  Folks on https://smallformfactor.net/forum/, including me, making their own modifications


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> Hey I noticed the Heatkiller RTX blocks are now listed on Aquatuning AU, the prices are really good although they don't have an ETA for when they will have stock.
> 
> http://www.au.aquatuning.com/water-...killer-iv-for-rtx-2080-ti-acryl-ni-rgb?c=7187
> 
> I was wondering why the prices are so much lower than the Watercool direct online outlet? For the product linked above, the price on the Watercool shop is 134.95€ which is about $214 AUD plus around $60 shipping, but the same product through Aquatuning is $168 AUD and only $9 for shipping. I mean this is great news for us Australians since normally overseas shipping is an absolute killer, but it puzzles me how there can be such a large difference in cost.
> 
> They don't have the back plates listed though which is unfortunate, hopefully they will list them in the future when they actually have stock of the waterblocks. To be honest I don't really like dealing with Aquatuning but when there is such a large difference in total cost it's too good to pass up.


The 134.95 is our MSRP including euorpean tax of 19%. Obviously, you don't have to pay that tax when the block is exported to Australia. Nevertheless, their offer is still underpriced. I don't know why, though. Thanks for bringing it to my attention nevertheless  






Vlada011 said:


> Thank you Watercool, you won my attention.
> Black Copper or nothing. You only should courage Caseking.de for better supplies with details.
> No mounting mechanisms, no D5 Top, no premium IV Pro Black Copper, no aluminium parts for Heatkiller tube...


Please contact caseking directly and suggest these additional products 




isabirov said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* , Hi Jakob.
> You should really consider making small form factor HK tube  Folks on https://smallformfactor.net/forum/, including me, making their own modifications


Nice mod, looks really cute! We still do offer our DDC Tank LT as a small form factor solution. We are aware of the demand for a high quality reservoir for SFF folks, so we plan to make a dedicated reservoir with compact dimensions. We will not, however, simply make a small Tube res - in our opinion, the width-to-height ratio isn't exactly pleasing in this format. So we plan to do something different for SFF folks eventually. No ETA yet, though.


----------



## Vlada011

isabirov said:


> @Watercool-Jakob, Hi Jakob.
> You should really consider making small form factor HK tube  Folks on https://smallformfactor.net/forum/, including me, making their own modifications


This is size I want, I like such stuff when pump and small reservoir are connected and hang on radiator and everything look like one unit.
Really bad because I scare DCC Pump, I mean he is not so reliable, hot and more loud average than D5. But it's cue and completely fit inside reservoir while D5 is body visible beyond and that's only visual flaw, nothing else. It's was probably too complicate to D5 fit inside on same way.
But mounting way of Heatkiller DDC and D5 are most durable and widely usable because of that. 

How you done that.
But 100 version is small enough.


----------



## Neville0

@Watercool-Jakob , Hey Jakob.

Have you shipped out the 2080ti blocks to the North American resellers such as MonMyMods, PerformancePCs, and etc. Just curious when I can expect the blocks to be coming in to the other regions.


----------



## bigboy678

@Watercool-Jakob sorry if this is been answered already but can you give us any updates on the watercool radiator line? i remember you saying back towards i think july/august that you guys werent happy with the samples and you were starting again


----------



## Vlada011

Watercool.de not make waterblocks for ASUS 1080Ti Strix.
Because if one day I decide to install full cover block instead Poseidon I would not like to depend from EKWB.
I don't want that company to profit only to lose money because of me.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

bigboy678 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* sorry if this is been answered already but can you give us any updates on the watercool radiator line? i remember you saying back towards i think july/august that you guys werent happy with the samples and you were starting again


That is correct. We are still in develop phase of the new-new radiators, so I cannot give you any release date.





Vlada011 said:


> Watercool.de not make waterblocks for ASUS 1080Ti Strix.
> Because if one day I decide to install full cover block instead Poseidon I would not like to depend from EKWB.
> I don't want that company to profit only to lose money because of me.


Nope, we didn't do a block for that card. We will do a block for the 2080Ti Strix, however!


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob *

You have a live photo for HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti - ACETAL Ni Product no.: 15624?


----------



## tiefox

What happened with the new Radiator lineup ?


----------



## BucketInABucket

tiefox said:


> What happened with the new Radiator lineup ?


As quoted:


Watercool-Jakob said:


> bigboy678 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @*Watercool-Jakob* sorry if this is been answered already but can you give us any updates on the watercool radiator line? i remember you saying back towards i think july/august that you guys werent happy with the samples and you were starting again
> 
> 
> 
> That is correct. We are still in develop phase of the new-new radiators, so I cannot give you any release date.
Click to expand...


----------



## Vlada011

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That is correct. We are still in develop phase of the new-new radiators, so I cannot give you any release date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, we didn't do a block for that card. We will do a block for the 2080Ti Strix, however!



That's sad news for me, I have ASUS GTX1080Ti Poseidon and if I decide to use full cover block I can't install Waterool block, I would like to switch to Watercool custom loop.

Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper
Heatkiller Tube 100
Heatkiller D5 Top
Laing D5T-38/810N 
Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360

I strongly believe looking careful video clips that's what I need.
That's one of biggest hardware mistake in life because I didn't go with Watercool.de.
Looking pictures, installation, unboxing it's impossible not to like their profile and installation way and characteristics.


----------



## SweetVandal

Does anyone know if the RTX series blocks are compatible with the stock Nvidia backplate?

Edit: I think I found the answer, thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

The biggest chunk of RTX 20 orders should now be dealt with. If you ordered before October 15th and haven't received a shipping notification by Monday, please send me a PN, so I can check if there is any problem. 





Good News: PICTURES!!! We got the pics back from the photographer, so I can show a bit of Hardwareporn today...



















































Next projekt: waterblock for ASUS 2080Ti Strix...


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The biggest chunk of RTX 20 orders should now be dealt with. If you ordered before October 15th and haven't received a shipping notification by Monday, please send me a PN, so I can check if there is any problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good News: PICTURES!!! We got the pics back from the photographer, so I can show a bit of Hardwareporn today...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
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> Next projekt: waterblock for ASUS 2080Ti Strix...


This is weird. In your post there are not pictures and in fact the areas around the text are blank. But when I hit the quote button the links show up in the reply box. 

They look awesome!


EDIT: In my reply I put the images in a spoiler tags but once it posted the spoiler drop down is empty....


----------



## iamjanco

Madmaxneo said:


> This is weird. In your post there are not pictures and in fact the areas around the text are blank. But when I hit the quote button the links show up in the reply box.
> 
> They look awesome!
> 
> EDIT: In my reply I put the images in a spoiler tags but once it posted the spoiler drop down is empty....


The images are not displaying properly on OCN because their urls are coded as "http" (not using ssl) instead of "https" (using ssl), resulting in mixed (secure vs. insecure) content issues. That said, the following links will open the images Jakob shared in a new tab/window (they do look nice):

*HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_1.jpg*

*HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_2.jpg*

*HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_5.jpg*

*HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_Bl_4.jpg*

*HK_IV_2080Ti_Acetal_1.jpg*


----------



## Barefooter

Thank you iamjanco!

I see you have the "Bug detective" badge now. Nice!


----------



## empyr

Got my block installed on the 2080 Ti, leak testing still currently. But holy **** Jakob, you guys packed the PCB up real nicely with Thermal pads. Can't wait to see the results.


Quality seems outstanding. Feels really solid. Well done!


----------



## Zammin

The black nickel one looks incredible. If Aquatuning AU gets them in stock later down the track I might buy one


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> Thank you iamjanco!
> 
> I see you have the "Bug detective" badge now. Nice!


YW, and thanks


----------



## Vlada011

This block look amazing.











I looked motherboard kit for RVE and probably work on RVE10...How much nicer look compare to EK.
What happen in head of people who work in EK to 5th Monoblock for Rampage series launch with passive cooling for PCH.
When before that they normaly made them with active cooling CPU-VRM-PCH.
Than launch RGB block and decide just like to save cost. 

I will not forgive myself because I didn't look better what I'm doing.


----------



## GAN77

Zammin said:


> The black nickel one looks incredible. If Aquatuning AU gets them in stock later down the track I might buy one


This black anodized aluminum


----------



## Zammin

GAN77 said:


> This black anodized aluminum


Oh right, that's okay either way it looks joocy.


----------



## Barefooter

@Watercool-Jakob can you tell us what coolant is in the block of this picture?


----------



## Ironsmack

iamjanco said:


> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_1.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_2.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_5.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_Bl_4.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acetal_1.jpg*




I just wish i could afford 2080ti (or two) so i can run this beautiful block. IMO, it seems most people seem to underrate your blocks when it comes to aesthetics and quality compared to *ahem* the other competition.


----------



## Vlada011

Ironsmack said:


> I just wish i could afford 2080ti (or two) so i can run this beautiful block. IMO, it seems most people seem to underrate your blocks when it comes to aesthetics and quality compared to *ahem* the other competition.



I'm not sad because can't afford RTX2080Ti, but I would like to Watercool make blocks for ASUS GTX1080Ti Strix and Poseidon.
Many people ignore Watercool because they not advertise self so much as EK.
But satisfied customers should help them to become more popular. That would stop me for sure to make mistake with EK.

Now I need to plan some changes with Watercool de, how to mount them inside case and etc...
Heatkiller 100 versions looks like is to short to be mount for radiator 120mm place.


EDIT:

Positive things of ownership ASUS GTX1080Ti Poseidon over Founders Edition.
1.Factory Overclocked
2. Better PCB
3. Better Temperatures
4. More Silent Cooler
5. Pre-Installed Water block
6. Available Full Cover Waterblock as FE and Strix

Negative

1. Full Cover Waterblock is not Watercool Heatkiller, its EKWB.

Someone say Watercool is not so much advertised as quality and they deserve.
That will change after I figure out how to mount Heatkiller D5 Tube to 360mm Nemesis GTX360.

After that I can bet I will not calm down until I replace Monoblock with VRM block for RVE and probably fit on RVE10 and Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper.
Only to hear someone who cry because mobo not have Monoblock available and need to install CPU block, I want to explain them few things.

i want this on my board...
Active VRM, active PCH, CPU block.
Quality is obvious and other side have nice plastic spacers, easy for installtion.
Little paste on PCH, small peace of thermal pad over chip and cooler over.
I always install thermal pad on chipset, never only paste.

I think this fit and on my RVE10.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Vlada011 said:


> I'm not sad because can't afford RTX2080Ti, but I would like to Watercool make blocks for ASUS GTX1080Ti Strix and Poseidon.
> Many people ignore Watercool because they not advertise self so much as EK.
> But satisfied customers should help them to become more popular. That would stop me for sure to make mistake with EK.
> 
> 
> Someone say Watercool is not so much advertised as quality and they deserve.


I agree 100%. I also feel the same way about the Sweiftech AIOs, which are awesome and configurable. I have added two Watercool Blocks to my Swiftech AIOs and they work great together.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I've just discovered that using a "descaling" solution (used for coffee makes like the Keurig) works much better in flushing a water loop than traditional methods. 

I may try this next weekend when I was planning on refilling my loop anyway.

Has anyone here tried this yet?


----------



## Vlada011

Madmaxneo said:


> I agree 100%. I also feel the same way about the Sweiftech AIOs, which are awesome and configurable. I have added two Watercool Blocks to my Swiftech AIOs and they work great together.


I hope and mine will works but I don't know where to start.
What to use D5 Top + Heatkiller 100 tube or Heatkiller 100 D5.

I'm not sure how to mount Heatkiller 100 to radiator.
Probably to sit on this way, because 100 version is shorter and I believe can't be installed with 120mm fan holders as longer version.
Probably is this only option. But maybe even Heatkiller tube could sit in EK Mount. Anyway EK D5 Mount is made to tight over D5 boby and D5 body is visible and on Heatkiller D5 Tube.

I hope Watercool will give answer but I belive only bigger reservoir could stay like this...










probably this is best way


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

iamjanco said:


> The images are not displaying properly on OCN because their urls are coded as "http" (not using ssl) instead of "https" (using ssl), resulting in mixed (secure vs. insecure) content issues. That said, the following links will open the images Jakob shared in a new tab/window (they do look nice):
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_1.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_2.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_5.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_Bl_4.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acetal_1.jpg*


Thanks for pointing this out! I was so confused why the pics wouldn't be displayed properly. I'll try to find a different solution in the future.





empyr said:


> Got my block installed on the 2080 Ti, leak testing still currently. But holy **** Jakob, you guys packed the PCB up real nicely with Thermal pads. Can't wait to see the results.
> 
> 
> Quality seems outstanding. Feels really solid. Well done!


Thanks for the feedback. But actually, we just provide cooling to every component that is defined by Nvidia's engineers to be cooled. We simply do not cut corners or pretend that we'd be smarter than the actual engineers that made the card in the first place. We are simply thorough 




Vlada011 said:


> I hope and mine will works but I don't know where to start.
> What to use D5 Top + Heatkiller 100 tube or Heatkiller 100 D5.
> 
> I'm not sure how to mount Heatkiller 100 to radiator.
> Probably to sit on this way, because 100 version is shorter and I believe can't be installed with 120mm fan holders as longer version.
> Probably is this only option. But maybe even Heatkiller tube could sit in EK Mount. Anyway EK D5 Mount is made to tight over D5 boby and D5 body is visible and on Heatkiller D5 Tube.


You can not mount the Tube 100 onto 120mm radiators. The mounting holes of 120mm fans are 105mm apart from each other. So it is incompatible with the 100mm struts of the Tube 100. The stand for fan mounting will be compatible, of course.


----------



## Vlada011

That was I afraid, OK thank for answer.
Watercool didn't plan some mount for Heatkiller D5 Top for 120mm fan.


I looke better pictures of Heatkiller IV PRO Copper Ni, probably full copper block.
Jesus, he is beatuful, hard hard decision between Black Copper 18034 and Copper Ni 18001.

Universal High Quality CPU Block is best investment. 


Guys what is your recommendation 100 or 150?
Heatkiller D5 Top + Reservoir or D5 Tube size 100 or 150?

I'm more for D5 Tube 100, 79 euro on Caseking.de and GTX360 radiator for Black Friday from Watercooling.UK.
And than when everything inside PC is darker no RGBs only on GPU I could install on Heatkiller RGB Size XS and only reservoir to shine.
I have UV Red Coolant Mayhem.


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> The images are not displaying properly on OCN because their urls are coded as "http" (not using ssl) instead of "https" (using ssl), resulting in mixed (secure vs. insecure) content issues. That said, the following links will open the images Jakob shared in a new tab/window (they do look nice):
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_1.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_2.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_5.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acryl_Ni_Bl_4.jpg*
> 
> *HK_IV_2080Ti_Acetal_1.jpg*





Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for pointing this out! I was so confused why the pics wouldn't be displayed properly. I'll try to find a different solution in the future.


YW, Jakob.  You can avoid the issue in the future by not using the "shop.watercool.de" submain to post your pix here. While there is an ssl certificate installed on the server for that site, something may be misconfigured as that cert is assigned to sage-shop.com (see the screen capture that follows)

You can avoid the issue by uploading the pix you'd like to share here to https://watercool.de instead. Btw, if you find this a bit too technical, check with whomever manages your web sites--they should be able to help clear things up.


----------



## empyr

Looking good so far with the 2080 Ti block. 42c max temp after 2 hours looping.


----------



## GAN77

empyr said:


> Looking good so far with the 2080 Ti block. 42c max temp after 2 hours looping.


Great temperature!

How much temperature do you have in your room and which radiators?


----------



## empyr

GAN77 said:


> Great temperature!
> 
> How much temperature do you have in your room and which radiators?


Around 21-22c in my room. Using 3x EK PE 360mm, water temp is around 23-25c according to the Barrowch temp sensor.


----------



## Ironsmack

Madmaxneo said:


> I've just discovered that using a "descaling" solution (used for coffee makes like the Keurig) works much better in flushing a water loop than traditional methods.
> 
> I may try this next weekend when I was planning on refilling my loop anyway.
> 
> Has anyone here tried this yet?



Yup. I used the Keurig de-scaler to clean my loop (including the pump). Just followed the instructions on the bottle (pretending im cleaning a Keurig machine). Then rinse it with DI water until its clear.

Not sure if i should run the de-scaler for a few hours in the loop. But so far, the Mayhem's Pastel hasn't discolored and its been doing good for almost a year this Feb.

YMMV and a healthy dose of skepticism.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Ironsmack said:


> Yup. I used the Keurig de-scaler to clean my loop (including the pump). Just followed the instructions on the bottle (pretending im cleaning a Keurig machine). Then rinse it with DI water until its clear.
> 
> Not sure if i should run the de-scaler for a few hours in the loop. But so far, the Mayhem's Pastel hasn't discolored and its been doing good for almost a year this Feb.
> 
> YMMV and a healthy dose of skepticism.


I am a bit confused as to what you did exactly. 

According to the bottles I have the instructions want you to "brew" 1 full reservoir at the largest cup setting then run it through 3 reservoirs of straight water. 
My understanding was to run the system with the de-scaler in the loop for a few hours then drain and rinse with distilled water. 

FYI my fluid is still crystal clear but I have been thinking of cleaning and reapplying TIM to the CPU so I might as well flush and drain.

My room temps are about 70f (21c) in my room and right now my system is at 36c, which is lower than what it usually sits at (which is about 42c). But when I stress test or benchmark the highest temp reached is usually in the low 60s (celsius).
FYI the first few months after I did my last flush and refill my system sat at the high 20s low 30s. Then over a few weeks it slowly crept up to the low 40s and has been there ever since. 
Also these are my low usage/idle temps.


----------



## Ironsmack

Madmaxneo said:


> I am a bit confused as to what you did exactly.
> 
> According to the bottles I have the instructions want you to "brew" 1 full reservoir at the largest cup setting then run it through 3 reservoirs of straight water.
> My understanding was to run the system with the de-scaler in the loop for a few hours then drain and rinse with distilled water.
> 
> FYI my fluid is still crystal clear but I have been thinking of cleaning and reapplying TIM to the CPU so I might as well flush and drain.
> 
> My room temps are about 70f (21c) in my room and right now my system is at 36c, which is lower than what it usually sits at (which is about 42c). But when I stress test or benchmark the highest temp reached is usually in the low 60s (celsius).
> FYI the first few months after I did my last flush and refill my system sat at the high 20s low 30s. Then over a few weeks it slowly crept up to the low 40s and has been there ever since.
> Also these are my low usage/idle temps.




I re-read what i wrote and i see why you got confused. So yes, i filled up 12 cups of water in a pitcher, added the solution to it and filled the loop with that solution. Ran the loop for an hour, rinse it with DI. And i did the whole thing twice. Dis-assembled my loop and clean my GPU/CPU block apart and cleaned it.

I thought about running the solution for a few hours, but i wasn't sure how the o-rings and pump would handle that. So i didnt do it.


----------



## Juris

Hi @Watercool-Jakob just wondering if there has been any progress on the Watercool controller system and if its still on schedule for a Christmas 2018 release? I know you guys must be busy with the RTX blocks but looking forward to your system to replace my Aquaero's. Cheers.


----------



## Vlada011

Juris said:


> Hi @Watercool-Jakob just wondering if there has been any progress on the Watercool controller system and if its still on schedule for a Christmas 2018 release? I know you guys must be busy with the RTX blocks but looking forward to your system to replace my Aquaero's. Cheers.


Controller System? Did you saw him maybe, what they plan to launch?


----------



## Juris

Vlada011 said:


> Controller System? Did you saw him maybe, what they plan to launch?


Yep we got a teaser a little while ago in post 2990 https://www.overclock.net/forum/27529440-post2990.html


----------



## Vlada011

Thank you very much. I didn't saw before.
But for me I don't see that as necessary. I have small ASUS Fan Extension Card I got with board and I will use her.

I swear I'm in love with these Heatkiller Series.
They even offer Glass if someone love own pump/res combo but need to switch in small or bigger case and could change 200 to 100 ot opposite with Glass and struts.

I only didn't saw where customers to find screws for 120mm fan adapter.
OK Basic mounting kit have screws to be installed on 120mm fan adapter, 
but If I saw good you don't get 4 screws for installation them on radiator or fan.
They are not included in package. 










This is hobby, newbies come here fast, in watercooling world and stop to buy new platform for every 10% improvement and leave AIO System in RIG of your sisters and young brothers. I would like every part of Heatkiller series to change on 3 months orientation and position of watercooling parts but only D5 series, everything... D5 Top and 100 Tube and Bootom for D5 and Multi Port Top and Basic Mount kit and 120mm adapter and short Tube Stand, and Stand for Fan...
How I missed them, I can't believe. Guy who bought parts from me live in Germany and EK sent parts to him. I should order from Watercool.de and Black Ice Nemesis GTX from Watercooling Uk, idiot. Lesion learned.


----------



## empyr

Not sure if i understood correctly, but; They *are* included. You get 4 screws for mounting them.

I know, because i installed a Heatkiller Tube myself less than a week ago, with the Basic Mounting Kit and 120mm Fan Adapter. All screws required for mounting is included.


----------



## pontiacmn11

I would have to second that, I am installing 2 reservoirs this coming week hopefully and these bolts were in little package attached to the side of the fan adapter package.


----------



## Vlada011

Thanks guys, than I wrongly read that screws are not included in package. 
That mean both Basic kit and Fan Adapters have screws in separate part of foil.
Thanks.


----------



## rj2

Hello.A ? in regards the Watercool HEATKILLERTube 150.
the standalone res not with the integrated pump

On the bottom of the res there are 2 g-1\4 ports
can either one be used to connect to a pump top or are they designated as inlet and outlet.
I have looked around net and have seen no info about this ?
thanks


----------



## pontiacmn11

Those are both outlet ports as far as I can tell looking up in the bottom of my 200 tubes, and I believe I read somewhere they are both outlets also.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Ironsmack said:


> I re-read what i wrote and i see why you got confused. So yes, i filled up 12 cups of water in a pitcher, added the solution to it and filled the loop with that solution. Ran the loop for an hour, rinse it with DI. And i did the whole thing twice. Dis-assembled my loop and clean my GPU/CPU block apart and cleaned it.
> 
> I thought about running the solution for a few hours, but i wasn't sure how the o-rings and pump would handle that. So i didnt do it.


That's pretty much how I was going to do it. 
But, as I just remembered, I have at least 2/3 gallon left of the stuff I used last time. It worked great and my system is still clean after just about a year. I ran that solution in my system for 2 days the last time I did it. For the life of me I can't remember the name!!...lol


----------



## rj2

pontiacmn11 said:


> Those are both outlet ports as far as I can tell looking up in the bottom of my 200 tubes, and I believe I read somewhere they are both outlets also.


thanks for your reply,appreciated!!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Juris said:


> Hi @*Watercool-Jakob* just wondering if there has been any progress on the Watercool controller system and if its still on schedule for a Christmas 2018 release? I know you guys must be busy with the RTX blocks but looking forward to your system to replace my Aquaero's. Cheers.


Hey, thanks for asking. We received a lot of feedback from the community when we showed that first Teaser. We had to build new prototypes to check and test some of the requested features, so the development is still ongoing. We are currently expecting a release more likely in Q2/2019.
Yes, that project is our "Duke Nukem", but we are dedicated to bring it to live eventually 





Vlada011 said:


> I only didn't saw where customers to find screws for 120mm fan adapter.
> OK Basic mounting kit have screws to be installed on 120mm fan adapter,
> but If I saw good you don't get 4 screws for installation them on radiator or fan.
> They are not included in package.


We include four M3x6 screws to mount the fan bracket onto a rad. We went with M3 screws as this is the size that most radiators use. If you want to mount the adapter bracket on installed fans, or your rad uses M4 or UNC 6/32 threads, you will have to adjust your screws accordingly. 




rj2 said:


> On the bottom of the res there are 2 g-1\4 ports
> can either one be used to connect to a pump top or are they designated as inlet and outlet.
> I have looked around net and have seen no info about this ?
> thanks


The ports on the standalone version are not dedicated as in- or outlet. When connecting the res, you should make sure that you align in- and outlet to different internal chambers, though: the left port in the front an the left port in the bottom lead into one chamber, and the two right ports do so, too. So you should hook up the inlet to one side, and outlet to the other side - but you are free to choose if you want to use the front or the bottom ports for that.


----------



## Aenra

I learn new things every day around here.
Today i learned that "most" rads use M3.. "most" mind you as in depicting the highest percentage, sold or used, the world over and so on.

I never knew M3 denotes a 3.5mm diameter! Or second best, a 4 mm one!

Sarcasm aside, just get yourself a tap and re-thread it, it's honestly no biggie.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Ijustupdated the Compatibility chart at http://gpu.watercool.de and added the RTX2070 page. As you can see, there are still some question marks, so if anyone has any of those cards and could provide a pic of the PCB, please send me a PN or email. Also, if you know of a review or such that shows the PCB, please send me a PN, so we can try to complete the chart over time. 

Thanks!


----------



## VOST3

@Watercool-Jakob

Any chance we are going to see a EVGA 2080Ti FTW3 full waterblock from you guys ?


----------



## SoMBrA

VOST3 said:


> @Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Any chance we are going to see a EVGA 2080Ti FTW3 full waterblock from you guys ?


That would be very nice!
I already gave a 2080ti reference PCB block but would insta buy a evga ftw3 block and later change to that card 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Happy Hepo

Won't happen, as EVGA changed mind on making a block themselves, so Watercool sees not enough potential market for an own block.
That was answered when the questiuon came up last time.


----------



## VOST3

Happy Hepo said:


> Won't happen, as EVGA changed mind on making a block themselves, so Watercool sees not enough potential market for an own block.
> That was answered when the questiuon came up last time.


EVGA making their own waterblocks doesnt mean anything, companies specialized in watercooling will probably have better performing waterblocks (maybe even cheaper) than EVGA's.

I do like how Watercool's Heatkiller 4 are FULL waterblocks. Meaning that more space for heat to go away, cant wait to see some reviews on thermalbench or similar sites.

*see the pic below


----------



## Dotachin

Now that the RTX WB launch is behind us, are there any updates on the x399 vrm front?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

VOST3 said:


> Any chance we are going to see a EVGA 2080Ti FTW3 full waterblock from you guys ?


A chance: yes. But it's rather small. We are currently developing the block for the 2080Ti Strix. This will keep developemt busy till ~end of November. December is pretty booked with an industrial customer (which might potentially lead to some fallout for the endcustomer segment in form of Quadro and Tesla blocks...). We'll have to make a good market analysis if it's really worth it to invest development time into an FTW3 block in January, or if it's not more efficient to give this attention to the radiators and controller unit.
Ah, the troubles of a small company 




Dotachin said:


> Now that the RTX WB launch is behind us, are there any updates on the x399 vrm front?


Nothing fixed is planned yet. Do you have any request for a specific board in mind?


----------



## VOST3

Small company or not , i do appreciate the answer you posted. *thumbsup*


----------



## Dotachin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nothing fixed is planned yet. Do you have any request for a specific board in mind?


Yes please: x399 Asrock Taichi. I have no problem with delays, just please don't forget us when x499 launches :thumb:


----------



## empyr

Not sure if it was the same with the 1080 Ti Heatkiller, but.. man oh man, the attention to detail on the 2080 Ti block is just oustanding. I honestly believe this is #1. After seeing the EK Blocks and others, they don't even come close to the quality the Heatkiller provides. Mad props to the team Jakob, really really impressive stuff. That goes for the CPU Block and Reservoir too btw.

For anybody thinking about buying the EK block or others over the Heatkiller, don't do it! Buy the Heatkiller+Backplate, you won't be disappointed. 

https://i.imgur.com/V9DGhQl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vU0FVd8.jpg

Only thing i could wish for was a Nickel backplate, perhaps in due time eh?


----------



## Vlada011

empyr said:


> Not sure if it was the same with the 1080 Ti Heatkiller, but.. man oh man, the attention to detail on the 2080 Ti block is just oustanding. I honestly believe this is #1. After seeing the EK Blocks and others, they don't even come close to the quality the Heatkiller provides. Mad props to the team Jakob, really really impressive stuff. That goes for the CPU Block and Reservoir too btw.
> 
> For anybody thinking about buying the EK block or others over the Heatkiller, don't do it! Buy the Heatkiller+Backplate, you won't be disappointed.
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/V9DGhQl.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/vU0FVd8.jpg
> 
> Only thing i could wish for was a Nickel backplate, perhaps in due time eh?



I believe you. Your watercooling parts are great.
EVGA customers would be more happier to see Hydro Copper with Watercool

Only your experience and because I strong believe in him make me sad, because wrong choice with limited budget and because Watercool don't want to build at least small number of blocks for GTX1080Ti Strix and Poseidon. They have same PCB and owners of both GPU need that block.
At least one model and backplate. I made great deal with ASUS GTX1080Ti Poseidon and card is significantly faster than FE, both Strix Advanced OC and Poseidon. Except that I have 2 years warranty from reliable source and changing ASUS Poseidon for EVGA or ASUS GTX1080Ti FE because Watercool block Is very hard to find so good deal, and I lose min 10% performance because I'm not sure how many cards could work on clocks of Strix OC and Poseidon. I was aware of that before I bought card, but I didn't had good deals for FE and Poseidon saved me some money in first moment.
With FE I would need to invest instantly 150 euro.

Watercool, please make at 50-100 blocks for GTX1080Ti Strix, compatible with both revision and Poseidon.
I will send order immediately for one when they reach store in Europe.


----------



## SoMBrA

empyr said:


> Not sure if it was the same with the 1080 Ti Heatkiller, but.. man oh man, the attention to detail on the 2080 Ti block is just oustanding. I honestly believe this is #1. After seeing the EK Blocks and others, they don't even come close to the quality the Heatkiller provides. Mad props to the team Jakob, really really impressive stuff. That goes for the CPU Block and Reservoir too btw.
> 
> For anybody thinking about buying the EK block or others over the Heatkiller, don't do it! Buy the Heatkiller+Backplate, you won't be disappointed.
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/V9DGhQl.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/vU0FVd8.jpg
> 
> Only thing i could wish for was a Nickel backplate, perhaps in due time eh?


I would pay a nickel backplate in advance just to make it happen 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Vlada011

It would be nice to hit some football matches as before few months when I bought EK Parts to spend everything immediately on Watercool de Shop or Caseking.de... 1. Heatkiller IV PRO Pure Black CPU block and Heatkiller D5 Tube 100 or 150 with Multi Port Top and mounting parts.
Only negative side of Heatkiller is because people can't mount 100 version on vertical radiator 120 fan places. 
No such adapter. But 150 is not to big.

I would keep them clean, to shine. 
Koolance inline filters on Heatkiller Tube and on CPU GPU block to protect parts for longer use.


----------



## skingun

Had a look at that koolance filter. Looks nice but really not necessary if you clean your equipment properly and use a decent coolant.


----------



## Ironsmack

Just got my block for my 1080s... and damn. 

They're gorgeous AF.

Just prepping and painting the backplate and i cant wait to re-do and finally WC my last 1080.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Dotachin said:


> Yes please: x399 Asrock Taichi.


Noted. Can't make promises, but added to the queue. 




empyr said:


> Not sure if it was the same with the 1080 Ti Heatkiller, but.. man oh man, the attention to detail on the 2080 Ti block is just oustanding. I honestly believe this is #1. After seeing the EK Blocks and others, they don't even come close to the quality the Heatkiller provides. Mad props to the team Jakob, really really impressive stuff. That goes for the CPU Block and Reservoir too btw.
> 
> For anybody thinking about buying the EK block or others over the Heatkiller, don't do it! Buy the Heatkiller+Backplate, you won't be disappointed.
> 
> https://i.imgur.com/V9DGhQl.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/vU0FVd8.jpg
> 
> Only thing i could wish for was a Nickel backplate, perhaps in due time eh?


Thanks for the love and recommendation! 




SoMBrA said:


> I would pay a nickel backplate in advance just to make it happen


We sent samples to some plating companysto finally get the nickel plated backplate issue of the table. It is a weirdly complicated process, given how simple it seems, but we are hoping to have a solution within 4-6 weeks. 




Vlada011 said:


> Watercool, please make at 50-100 blocks for GTX1080Ti Strix, compatible with both revision and Poseidon.


Nope. Pascal is pretty much EOL, we are not investing into this generation any more. 




Ironsmack said:


> Just got my block for my 1080s... and damn.
> 
> They're gorgeous AF.
> 
> Just prepping and painting the backplate and i cant wait to re-do and finally WC my last 1080.


Thanks for the pics and kind words! Looking forward to seeing it in your build!


----------



## Vlada011

Pascal is not EOL, still more people buy Pascal than RTX2080Ti. 
I suppose you need a lot of work and preparation to build one GPU waterblock, it's not just like that...
But I can bet Watercool could sell at least 100 GPU blocks for ASUS GTX1080Ti Strix/Poseidon.
Special if he is compatible with both Strix versions and Poseidon.

Heatkiller IV blocks for GTX1080 are fantastic. 
They are in pair with Heatkiller IV PRO Copper Nickel CPU block.

No, I'm definitely in love, if someone is not capable to recognize good quality from high resolution pictures could be in big problems.
I simply didn't pay attention on that at all. 

For radiator and fittings I decide. Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360, Koolance fittings, same series as they made for hard tubes, new Koolance for hard and soft tube are same design, and waterblocks Heatkiller. Reservoir, CPU and GPU Block.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> SNIP


Hey Jakob, sorry for the odd question but I was wondering if you happen to know how many micro-channels there are on the 2080Ti VGA blocks?


----------



## atomicus

Vlada011 said:


> Pascal is not EOL, still more people buy Pascal than RTX2080Ti.



It is EOL, Nvidia aren't making them anymore and prices are going up. Every Pascal GPU out there is old stock and once sold, it's gone forever. Most people watercooling Pascal have done so already... it's just not worth it for any company to be making more blocks, they'll just sell what they have, the same as what's happening with Pascal GPUs themselves. Going forwards, 20xx is where their focus will be, and rightly so... from a business sense anyway. Bottom line, if you want to watercool Pascal, you just have to buy a GPU you KNOW you can get a block for, as there are still plenty out there.


----------



## NewType88

Anyone know when they will release a block for the 2080 ti FTW3 ?


----------



## VOST3

NewType88 said:


> Anyone know when they will release a block for the 2080 ti FTW3 ?


i asked that few posts back, they dont know without market research. aka nothing planned yet


----------



## NewType88

VOST3 said:


> i asked that few posts back, they dont know without market research. aka nothing planned yet


Thanks. Market research ? EVGA cant keep their cards or ftw3 blocks in stock for more than 5 minutes lol.


----------



## VOST3

NewType88 said:


> Thanks. Market research ? EVGA cant keep their cards or ftw3 blocks in stock for more than 5 minutes lol.



Yes, Watercool is another waaay smaller company so they have to be careful, didnt EVGA just released a waterblock for the FTW3 ? of course out of stock and most likely lower quality.
Its sad that they didnt prepare for this , since Turing is a way bigger chip and they still didnt improve their production.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> Pascal is not EOL, still more people buy Pascal than RTX2080Ti.





atomicus said:


> It is EOL, Nvidia aren't making them anymore and prices are going up. Every Pascal GPU out there is old stock and once sold, it's gone forever. Most people watercooling Pascal have done so already... it's just not worth it for any company to be making more blocks, they'll just sell what they have, the same as what's happening with Pascal GPUs themselves. Going forwards, 20xx is where their focus will be, and rightly so... from a business sense anyway. Bottom line, if you want to watercool Pascal, you just have to buy a GPU you KNOW you can get a block for, as there are still plenty out there.


^^ atomicus is right, it is definitely EOL at this point. No point developing more blocks for a very specific pascal model now that already has some blocks available from other brands.

Vlada, I have a Strix 1080Ti in my watercooled system at the moment with a Phanteks GPU block fitted. It looks great and is fantastic quality. The Plexi is super clear and the nickel plated copper block is super thick and heavy. Even the packaging it came in was premium. I'm sure the Heatkiller blocks probably cool a few degrees better (on the founders edition of course) but this one keeps my Strix 1080Ti under 40C even during extended full load gaming sessions with two 360 rads in the loop. It's always within 10C of the water temp. I know you have issues with EK, who are the other manufacturer that makes a block for your card, so maybe give Phanteks a try. It will definitely do a better job than the hybrid cooler and you won't be disappointed in the quality seeing as that is a major deciding factor for you.

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TiAS.html


----------



## AllenG

Jakob, what would be the waterblock to choose for the chipset of a Asus Zenith Extreme? Also, how is the stock on the Asus x399 VRM blocks? I've noticed they're out of stock everywhere in the US. Recently purchased a one of the TR4 and Vega Blocks, beautiful pieces!


----------



## Zammin

Another question for those of you who have the Heat Killer 2080Ti block, what is your max water temp to GPU temp delta? I haven't been able to find any reviews of the block yet but I've been told it's a very good performer. Keen to know the numbers as I am considering buying one.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

AllenG said:


> Jakob, what would be the waterblock to choose for the chipset of a Asus Zenith Extreme? Also, how is the stock on the Asus x399 VRM blocks? I've noticed they're out of stock everywhere in the US. Recently purchased a one of the TR4 and Vega Blocks, beautiful pieces!


Please find all info about compatibility at http://mb.watercool.de (link also available in my signature under every post from me). We still produce the Asus X399 blocks. Can't say for sure if there are current open backorders with our US partners. When in doubt, please contact your reseller of choice and ask them for the block, so they can decide if they want to restock it. 





NewType88 said:


> Anyone know when they will release a block for the 2080 ti FTW3 ?





VOST3 said:


> Yes, Watercool is another waaay smaller company so they have to be careful, [...]





Vlada011 said:


> Pascal is not EOL, still more people buy Pascal than RTX2080Ti.
> I suppose you need a lot of work and preparation to build one GPU waterblock, it's not just like that...
> But I can bet Watercool could sell at least 100 GPU blocks for ASUS GTX1080Ti Strix/Poseidon.



In addition to my previous post, please let me elaborate:
There are currently 12 people working at Watercool, so yes, we are a small company. This comes with a few benefits, as we are very flexible and can quickly adapt to changes - but it also means that every individual person's workforce is extremely valuable, and we need to prioritize who does what when. To give you a rough idea: from the moment we receive a graphics card to the moment when we can ship the first water block for it, development takes roughly one person's workforce for one complete month. So development cost for a block can be viewed as one highly trained engineer's monthly salary (from the financial aspect), plus one month of productivity that can not be allocated to other projects (from the time aspect). So, to make it worth it on our end, we'll need to sell a small three digit number of blocks, just to make up for the financial development cost - and then we haven't earned a cent on it! To create profit with a product, we need to sell even more! 

That's only the financial aspect. And then comes the time aspect: if we allocate our resources (as in bare working hours) to that specific block, no other project will be going forward. So the block in question also needs to be more profitable than any other project that could be done in the same timespan. 



So, to break down the theoretical idea to the questions at hand: 

A block for the 1080Ti FTW3 would only fit this specific card, so the whole potential market is only what was sold of this specific model - which isn't that much, compared to all cards that are compatible with the reference layout block. Plus, it's been out for ~1.5 years, so most people who even want to watercool that card already have a block for it. And those few people who a) have bought that card and b) want to watercool it and c) don't want any of the blocks already available, we'd still need to reach with the good news of a new block being brought to market. Nope, this will definitely not be worth it, so that block is 100% not coming.


For the 2080Ti, the problem is similar: Development is currently busy with the Strix block. In December, they will be busy with an industrial customer. So they could theoretically START with development in January, which would lead to market availability in ~February-March. Then, you need to keep in mind that we are dealing with a niche within a niche: 

- only very few people have the funds to afford a 2080Ti FTW card, to start with
- of these, only a fraction wants to watercool their card
- of these, only a fraction do not automatically go to EK
- of these, only a fraction know us, and are willing to pay for our blocks - after all, we are not the cheapest manufacturer in the field.
And this small portion of people will not only have blocks from EK and potentially other manufacturers available to them, but also from EVGA themselves - available for MONTHS before our block even hits the market. So, potential sales for that block do not look that super bright, to begin with. 



And then, there's also the timing aspect: R&D has been busy with nothing but RTX20 since August. Since August, there was virtually no new development with the radiators, pump covers or controllers. So, will we really want to invest another month into a block with mediocre sales potential in January? Or won't it make more sense to then go back to all these other projects, and call it a day on RTX20? After all, we WILL have blocks for reference layout and one of the most relevant custom layouts then, do we really NEED another custom layout? And won't a new radiator be more valuable for the next ~2-5 years, compared to a graphics card's lifespan of 1-1.5years? Plus, maybe Nvidia will stick to their previous routine of announcing a new premium card next march (potentially imaginable TITAN RTX), and we simply will have to make a block for that card. That would mean virtually no movement on the rads from ~August till March/April!







So. I hope that this might help you to understand the thought process behind the products that we end up doing. It's not that we do not WANT to do blocks for every graphics card, motherboard, or socket - it's the fact that we have very limited resources, and constantly have to balance those out against each possible product. On the bright side: 2018 seems to be a new all-time record in business sales, we are constantly growing, expanding, buying additional machines, and hiring additional staff. So we are optimistic that we will be able to make more new product lines in the same time in the next year!


----------



## empyr

Zammin said:


> Another question for those of you who have the Heat Killer 2080Ti block, what is your max water temp to GPU temp delta? I haven't been able to find any reviews of the block yet but I've been told it's a very good performer. Keen to know the numbers as I am considering buying one.


Max water temp for me was 30-31c, room temp 21-23c. Haven't seen the GPU go past 46c yet. However the important for me is the fact that every component is being cooled. The block is just incredible. PS, that's with a +145 Core and 750 Mem OC.


----------



## Happy Hepo

Edit: Should check if Im already on the last page of the thread


----------



## NewType88

Man, that's to bad. I really want a heat killer GPU block since I'm going to get one for the CPU. I would of never bought a FTW3 if I knew I was going to end up water cooling my system. The lack of cooling performance doesn't justify the premium. Guess Ill go EK/evga for the GPU this time and get a reference card next TI release so I can get a heat killer block.


----------



## Ironsmack

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the pics and kind words! Looking forward to seeing it in your build!



Thanks Jakob! Btw, i was wondering - is the Heatkiller logo on your backplates glued on? 

If it is... Can i use a heatgun on low heat to take off?


----------



## Zammin

empyr said:


> Max water temp for me was 30-31c, room temp 21-23c. Haven't seen the GPU go past 46c yet. However the important for me is the fact that every component is being cooled. The block is just incredible. PS, that's with a +145 Core and 750 Mem OC.


Thanks for the info. So in your case the max delta is about 15C between the water and GPU temp. I'm trying to compile results from people with waterblocked 2080Ti's so I can get an idea of which blocks perform the best. There's not really any comprehensive online reviews yet so this is about the best I can do. The only other one I have gotten info on is JPMboy's Bitspower block which he says has a max delta of 12C, but he uses chilled water I think, so that may skew the result. Not sure.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> SNIP


Jakob, are you able to answer the below question?



Zammin said:


> Hey Jakob, sorry for the odd question but I was wondering if you happen to know how many micro-channels there are on the 2080Ti VGA blocks?


----------



## Aenra

@Watercool-Jakob really appreciate the honest and detailed response; puts a lot of stuff under perspective (and as such should help avoid misunderstandings or 'demands' [well.. for most people anyway]).

This isn't 2080/Ti-related, i mean generally.
(and by the way, you've nailed it i think.. niche within a niche within a niche; vocal minority excluded, not that big of an audience)

Personally looking forward to the new dual pump volutes; have really come to appreciate the _lack_ of cheap plastic in components so central to a PC setup; if in order to have that quality we need occasionally forgo a thing or two, by all means let us.
Plastic we can buy elsewhere, it's not why we're here


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> Hey Jakob, sorry for the odd question but I was wondering if you happen to know how many micro-channels there are on the 2080Ti VGA blocks?


There are 35 microchannels.





Zammin said:


> Another question for those of you who have the Heat Killer 2080Ti block, what is your max water temp to GPU temp delta? I haven't been able to find any reviews of the block yet but I've been told it's a very good performer. Keen to know the numbers as I am considering buying one.


From what I've heard and seen, customers achieved Temp-Deltas between 10 and 16K with our block, depending on OC settings. 




Ironsmack said:


> Thanks Jakob! Btw, i was wondering - is the Heatkiller logo on your backplates glued on?
> 
> If it is... Can i use a heatgun on low heat to take off?


Depends. On the Maxwell and Pascal generations, the logo is laser engraved on a stainless steel plate. This plate is glued into a groove in the backplate and can be taken out with some heat and gentle force. From the Volta generation on, the logo is laser engraved directly onto the aluminum and cannot be removed.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> There are 35 microchannels.
> 
> From what I've heard and seen, customers achieved Temp-Deltas between 10 and 16K with our block, depending on OC settings.


Thanks a lot


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> There are 35 microchannels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I've heard and seen, customers achieved Temp-Deltas between 10 and 16K with our block, depending on OC settings.





Zammin said:


> Thanks a lot


Well I just joined the Heatkiller club. Placed an order for a 2080 Ti block and back plate. I am praying that I don't get hit with GST once it reaches Australia. My last order from Aquatuning (also Germany) got through okay so hopefully I can dodge it this time as well, otherwise I'm in for around $350 instead of $300...


----------



## knightriot

Placed an order for a 2080 Ti block and back plate too  , after 10 days, skill "waiting"


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Zammin said:


> Thanks for the info. So in your case the max delta is about 15C between the water and GPU temp. I'm trying to compile results from people with waterblocked 2080Ti's so I can get an idea of which blocks perform the best. There's not really any comprehensive online reviews yet so this is about the best I can do. The only other one I have gotten info on is JPMboy's Bitspower block which he says has a max delta of 12C, but he uses chilled water I think, so that may skew the result. Not sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Jakob, are you able to answer the below question?


Heatkiller IV RTX 2080 Ti AC NI BL

Ambient ~22°C
Water T max ~28°C (on a 560 rad, fans @750RPM)
GPU T max ~38°C


----------



## Zammin

Fitzcaraldo said:


> Heatkiller IV RTX 2080 Ti Nickel Black AL
> 
> Ambient ~22°C
> Water T max ~28°C (on a 560 rad, fans @750RPM)
> GPU T max ~38°C


Nice. Thanks for the info 

I'm currently on two 360 rads with an 8700k and 1080Ti. Considering throwing another 240 in there when I swap out the hardware for the 9900k and 2080Ti. Hope I can get temps as good as yours. Is your 560 rad dedicated to the GPU? or is it for the whole system?


----------



## Fitzcaraldo

Dedicated for the GPU.
There is a separate 480 for the TR.

Thus you can deduct directly how well the block performs.


----------



## empyr

Zammin said:


> Thanks for the info. So in your case the max delta is about 15C between the water and GPU temp. I'm trying to compile results from people with waterblocked 2080Ti's so I can get an idea of which blocks perform the best. There's not really any comprehensive online reviews yet so this is about the best I can do. The only other one I have gotten info on is JPMboy's Bitspower block which he says has a max delta of 12C, but he uses chilled water I think, so that may skew the result. Not sure.


 Just to note, I'm running a single loop with 3x 360 PE radiators, fan speed around 800-900 RPM (Noiseblocker eLoops). I forgot to mention that.




Zammin said:


> Well I just joined the Heatkiller club. Placed an order for a 2080 Ti block and back plate. I am praying that I don't get hit with GST once it reaches Australia. My last order from Aquatuning (also Germany) got through okay so hopefully I can dodge it this time as well, otherwise I'm in for around $350 instead of $300...


Good lad! Enjoy it! :thumb:


----------



## svntwoo

Hey Heatkillers! Looking to join the club soon, hoping for some help. 

I am in the process of putting my list together for a Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case build.

I am hoping someone might have a Lian Li PC-011D case with a similar setup that I am looking to order, right now I cannot track down an HK Tube 200 D5 res, so I am considering ordering the 150 but want to make sure it's not going to look too small in the case. 

Is there a mounting bracket for the D5/Tube Res that allows for a bottom mount? As in mounting to the floor of a case?

Planned build is:
pump- WaterCool WCP D5-Vario 12v Pump 
res- WaterCool Heatkiller Tube 150 D5 | OR | Tube 200 D5
cpu- WaterCool Heatkiller IV PRO Intel Acryl
gpu- WATERCOOL HEATKILLER IV FOR RTX 2080 TI - ACRYL
rads- XSPC TX360 ULTRATHIN RADIATOR (qty 2) 
fans- BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 - 120mm PWM High Speed fans (qty 6) 
fit- BITSPOWER G1/4" MATTE BLACK ENHANCE MULTI-LINK FOR OD 16MM (qty 10) 
tube- Bitspower None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Neville0

svntwoo said:


> Hey Heatkillers! Looking to join the club soon, hoping for some help.
> 
> I am in the process of putting my list together for a Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case build.
> 
> I am hoping someone might have a Lian Li PC-011D case with a similar setup that I am looking to order, right now I cannot track down an HK Tube 200 D5 res, so I am considering ordering the 150 but want to make sure it's not going to look too small in the case.
> 
> Is there a mounting bracket for the D5/Tube Res that allows for a bottom mount? As in mounting to the floor of a case?
> 
> Planned build is:
> pump- WaterCool WCP D5-Vario 12v Pump
> res- WaterCool Heatkiller Tube 150 D5 | OR | Tube 200 D5
> cpu- WaterCool Heatkiller IV PRO Intel Acryl
> gpu- WATERCOOL HEATKILLER IV FOR RTX 2080 TI - ACRYL
> rads- XSPC TX360 ULTRATHIN RADIATOR (qty 2)
> fans- BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 - 120mm PWM High Speed fans (qty 6)
> fit- BITSPOWER G1/4" MATTE BLACK ENHANCE MULTI-LINK FOR OD 16MM (qty 10)
> tube- Bitspower None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube
> 
> Thanks in advance!


There should be a bottom install where a fan goes in the watercool.de store for the heatkiller tube. 

For the PC-011D, the side rad if you're going to install in in the back chamber is more dependent on rad width and you should get a rad of max 125mm width, obviously there is a 50mm max thickness clearance. This will help clear usb clearance issues. The top is prety much "thickness free" clearance. I would get atleast 30mm rads with the PC-O11D as it can easily fit it, and potentially thicker so it does not look empty, however that is just me though.

The fans have wierd responses depend on what controller you're going.


----------



## svntwoo

Neville0 said:


> There should be a bottom install where a fan goes in the watercool.de store for the heatkiller tube.
> 
> For the PC-011D, the side rad if you're going to install in in the back chamber is more dependent on rad width and you should get a rad of max 125mm width, obviously there is a 50mm max thickness clearance. This will help clear usb clearance issues. The top is prety much "thickness free" clearance. I would get atleast 30mm rads with the PC-O11D as it can easily fit it, and potentially thicker so it does not look empty, however that is just me though.
> 
> The fans have wierd responses depend on what controller you're going.


I assume you are referring to the HEATKILLER® Tube - Stand for fan mounting (120mm fans) for vertical mounting? 

Brings me to the next question of how are you able to adjust the Vario pump when it is mounted vertically? I guess it's time to drill an access hole in the bottom of the case since rigid tube wont allow me to un-mount the pump/res once connected.


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> In addition to my previous post, please let me elaborate:
> There are currently 12 people working at Watercool, so yes, we are a small company. This comes with a few benefits, as we are very flexible and can quickly adapt to changes - but it also means that every individual person's workforce is extremely valuable, and we need to prioritize who does what when. To give you a rough idea: from the moment we receive a graphics card to the moment when we can ship the first water block for it, development takes roughly one person's workforce for one complete month. So development cost for a block can be viewed as one highly trained engineer's monthly salary (from the financial aspect), plus one month of productivity that can not be allocated to other projects (from the time aspect). So, to make it worth it on our end, we'll need to sell a small three digit number of blocks, just to make up for the financial development cost - and then we haven't earned a cent on it! To create profit with a product, we need to sell even more!
> 
> That's only the financial aspect. And then comes the time aspect: if we allocate our resources (as in bare working hours) to that specific block, no other project will be going forward. So the block in question also needs to be more profitable than any other project that could be done in the same timespan.
> 
> 
> So, to break down the theoretical idea to the questions at hand:
> 
> A block for the 1080Ti FTW3 would only fit this specific card, so the whole potential market is only what was sold of this specific model - which isn't that much, compared to all cards that are compatible with the reference layout block. Plus, it's been out for ~1.5 years, so most people who even want to watercool that card already have a block for it. And those few people who a) have bought that card and b) want to watercool it and c) don't want any of the blocks already available, we'd still need to reach with the good news of a new block being brought to market. Nope, this will definitely not be worth it, so that block is 100% not coming.
> 
> 
> For the 2080Ti, the problem is similar: Development is currently busy with the Strix block. In December, they will be busy with an industrial customer. So they could theoretically START with development in January, which would lead to market availability in ~February-March. Then, you need to keep in mind that we are dealing with a niche within a niche:
> 
> - only very few people have the funds to afford a 2080Ti FTW card, to start with
> - of these, only a fraction wants to watercool their card
> - of these, only a fraction do not automatically go to EK
> - of these, only a fraction know us, and are willing to pay for our blocks - after all, we are not the cheapest manufacturer in the field.
> And this small portion of people will not only have blocks from EK and potentially other manufacturers available to them, but also from EVGA themselves - available for MONTHS before our block even hits the market. So, potential sales for that block do not look that super bright, to begin with.
> 
> 
> And then, there's also the timing aspect: R&D has been busy with nothing but RTX20 since August. Since August, there was virtually no new development with the radiators, pump covers or controllers. So, will we really want to invest another month into a block with mediocre sales potential in January? Or won't it make more sense to then go back to all these other projects, and call it a day on RTX20? After all, we WILL have blocks for reference layout and one of the most relevant custom layouts then, do we really NEED another custom layout? And won't a new radiator be more valuable for the next ~2-5 years, compared to a graphics card's lifespan of 1-1.5years? Plus, maybe Nvidia will stick to their previous routine of announcing a new premium card next march (potentially imaginable TITAN RTX), and we simply will have to make a block for that card. That would mean virtually no movement on the rads from ~August till March/April!
> 
> 
> So. I hope that this might help you to understand the thought process behind the products that we end up doing. It's not that we do not WANT to do blocks for every graphics card, motherboard, or socket - it's the fact that we have very limited resources, and constantly have to balance those out against each possible product. On the bright side: 2018 seems to be a new all-time record in business sales, we are constantly growing, expanding, buying additional machines, and hiring additional staff. So we are optimistic that we will be able to make more new product lines in the same time in the next year!


Great post Jakob!

Very forthcoming, insightful, and puts things in perspective.

For all the people that come on here asking for a waterblock for their custom PCB video card... you are doing it COMPLETELY BACKWARDS!

You are going out and buying a card with a few more power phases, a slightly higher factory overclock, and a fancy air cooler that you are going to take off and never use. Now cards like the Asus Strix or the EVGA FTW3 are great choices if you are going to run the card with the stock air cooling.

If you know you are going to water cool your video card then you should select the waterblock you want to use _first_. Most waterblocks won't vary too much performance wise. You can select your waterblock however you like whether it's brand loyalty, one that fits your build style, or simply which one you think looks the best :thumb:

Once you have selected your waterblock, _then_ you can choose your video card off of the list of cards that fit your waterblock


----------



## Wally West

Exactly, always buy a reference design

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Jyve

Amen! 



Wally West said:


> Exactly, always buy a reference design
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Vlada011

Wally West said:


> Exactly, always buy a reference design
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Now is not necessary with RTX series.
But example with GTX1080Ti, reference Founders Edition is 1000 points weaker than Poseidon or Strix in TimeSpy.
It's much easier when card is overclocked through BIOS than every time software to OC after boot.

OK now and Founders Edition are overclocked and Watercool make blocks for RTX2080Ti Strix.
It's bad because no some kind of full cover universal blocks and than customer only to change maybe some little parts than completely new block.
For me is tragic because no Heatkiller IV for Poseidon.


----------



## skingun

When you watercool a card it clocks higher anyway as the thermal limits are not reached. Don't bother yourself with aircooled clock speeds if you are watercooling. It makes no difference.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> Now is not necessary with RTX series.
> But example with GTX1080Ti, reference Founders Edition is 1000 points weaker than Poseidon or Strix in TimeSpy.
> It's much easier when card is overclocked through BIOS than every time software to OC after boot.
> 
> OK now and Founders Edition are overclocked and Watercool make blocks for RTX2080Ti Strix.
> It's bad because no some kind of full cover universal blocks and than customer only to change maybe some little parts than completely new block.
> For me is tragic because no Heatkiller IV for Poseidon.


I know it's not your first choice brand but did you have a look at the Phanteks block I linked you for the Strix? I guarantee you won't be disappointed with the quality. It's a decent performer as well, keeps my Strix 1080Ti under 40C with a mild overclock most of the year, with a water to GPU temp delta of less than 10C using Kryonaut thermal paste. In TPU's testing it was also one of the best at cooling the VRM. Newegg and many other places still sell them, since Heatkiller don't make a block for your card and you don't like EK you should snag one of these while stock is still around.


----------



## Vlada011

Maybe I will not even use full cover block if default Poseidon block finish job. 
I don't need 45C temperatures.


----------



## jura11

Vlada011 said:


> Now is not necessary with RTX series.
> But example with GTX1080Ti, reference Founders Edition is 1000 points weaker than Poseidon or Strix in TimeSpy.
> It's much easier when card is overclocked through BIOS than every time software to OC after boot.
> 
> OK now and Founders Edition are overclocked and Watercool make blocks for RTX2080Ti Strix.
> It's bad because no some kind of full cover universal blocks and than customer only to change maybe some little parts than completely new block.
> For me is tragic because no Heatkiller IV for Poseidon.


Hi there 

As above suggestion, I would go with Phanteks Glacier block,I used them like on GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme and MSI Gaming X 1080Ti and in both cases these blocks performed pretty good

Regarding the Founders Edition or reference PCB, its always easier to get WB for these cards as first than for non reference PCB like is Strix or FTW3 

Have tried on GTX1080Ti FTW3 three WB,first has been EVGA one which has been one poor WB, then EK one which performed bit better and at the end cheap or cheaper Bykski one which has performed on par with EK or has been hotter by 2-3°C as max

Regarding the making something like universal GPU block, I don't think we will see that as RTX abd GTX does have different mounting of block, PCB is different and few other things are different etc 

Hard to see someone will come with modular GPU block, maybe once yes but you will need to spend serious amount of money and time and R&D to this and not sure if Watercool can afford this, maybe I'm wrong on this 

I owned few Founders Edition GTX1080 and GTX1080Ti and most of them has been exceptionally good OC, my last Ti is running 2113MHz at 1.07v,other Ti which I owned has been able 2100MHz easy wh8ch I can't say about the Aorus or FTW3 or MSI Gaming X as they usually clocked to 2050-2088MHz

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

svntwoo said:


> I am hoping someone might have a Lian Li PC-011D case with a similar setup that I am looking to order, right now I cannot track down an HK Tube 200 D5 res, so I am considering ordering the 150 but want to make sure it's not going to look too small in the case.
> 
> Is there a mounting bracket for the D5/Tube Res that allows for a bottom mount? As in mounting to the floor of a case?


I would strongly suggest trying to get a 200 tube. The 150 can look a little bit lost in the O11D. You can order directly from us, or through one of our international partners, depending on where you live.


We have four different stands for bottom mounting: The short stand can fit a standalone or DDC Tube, for a D5 Tube, it'll need the addition of the rubber decouplers. The long stand can fit all versions and can be combined with the decouplers if you wish to do so. Then there is a vertical stand to mount onto 120mm fan holes or 140mm fan holes if you want to mount it onto a fan, radiator, or simply want to use preexisting holes in your case. 






Vlada011 said:


> It's bad because no some kind of full cover universal blocks and than customer only to change maybe some little parts than completely new block.





jura11 said:


> Regarding the making something like universal GPU block, I don't think we will see that as RTX abd GTX does have different mounting of block, PCB is different and few other things are different etc


We do have a universal waterblock for GPU only. It can be combined with an additional waterblock for the VRMs, and works pretty well - but you shouldn't expect highscores or extreme overclocks, of course. It is NOT a full cover block, and it cannot fully compete with one. Nevertheless, it's still better than air, so....


----------



## svntwoo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I would strongly suggest trying to get a 200 tube. The 150 can look a little bit lost in the O11D. You can order directly from us, or through one of our international partners, depending on where you live.
> 
> 
> We have four different stands for bottom mounting: The short stand can fit a standalone or DDC Tube, for a D5 Tube, it'll need the addition of the rubber decouplers. The long stand can fit all versions and can be combined with the decouplers if you wish to do so. Then there is a vertical stand to mount onto 120mm fan holes or 140mm fan holes if you want to mount it onto a fan, radiator, or simply want to use preexisting holes in your case.
> 
> 
> We do have a universal waterblock for GPU only. It can be combined with an additional waterblock for the VRMs, and works pretty well - but you shouldn't expect highscores or extreme overclocks, of course. It is NOT a full cover block, and it cannot fully compete with one. Nevertheless, it's still better than air, so....


I ended up ordering the HK 150 D5 tube, I do agree it may look a tad small in that case. If I can find one in the US I will likely order the 200, but they seem to be out of stock everywhere right now.


----------



## YNONO

svntwoo said:


> I ended up ordering the HK 150 D5 tube, I do agree it may look a tad small in that case. If I can find one in the US I will likely order the 200, but they seem to be out of stock everywhere right now.


You can convert the 150 mm tube to 200 mm with new aluminum struts and a 200 mm tube, Both parts are in stock at 
Performance PC. .It will add about 40 to $45 to your order. 
If you really want it, That's what you can do.

I have the Lian Li PC 011WW with a 200 mm D5 res. pump combo. 
Here is a pic to help you git an idea.


----------



## Mad Monk

*Heatkiller's controller*

Watercool-Jakob

Good day to you sir and please accept my best wishes to you and your plus the entire Heatkiller team for a happy and healthy Christmas and New Years.

A few weeks back you shared that the Heatkiller controller was pushed back until Q one or two (forgot which - sorry) 2019 to incorporate our feedback into the prototype. Bravo! To this I say take as long as needful to get it right.

The posts on this week's summary of posts have made it very clear, Heatkiller is up to it's hind end in alligators and the way you explained was appreciated. Thank you for your candor and honesty, a refreshing breath of fresh air.

Pictures would be appreciated but not needful for me; perhaps others. 

Make no mistake, I covet, desire, and if I can afford it, as it has been shared here, shall buy this controller. What I would appreciate, when you can spare the time, is an update on what Heatkiller is planning to bring to market. A generic, will not hold you to it, price point would be very helpful and I'll not hold anybody to it in the prototype phase. If you need beta testers I am offering my paltry system and dubious skills to be of assistance.

With all that on the record, any updates would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your time and hoped for update.

Cheers,

MM
PS: I actually registered for your website just to say thank you for your efforts here. Silly perhaps, but since I am vociferous when I have a complaint, it seemed fair to me to acknowledge a good thing and hopefully provide encouragement for a continuation.  Thank you once again!


----------



## Zammin

Hey sorry for what might be a silly question, but when you guys order your blocks from the Watercool website how long does it normally take before they ship? The website says within 5-7 days but I read earlier that someone has been waiting a month. Can't find the post now though so I'm not sure what the deal is.

I'm super excited to get my hands on the 2080Ti block I ordered


----------



## bites

Zammin said:


> Hey sorry for what might be a silly question, but when you guys order your blocks from the Watercool website how long does it normally take before they ship? The website says within 5-7 days but I read earlier that someone has been waiting a month. Can't find the post now though so I'm not sure what the deal is.
> 
> I'm super excited to get my hands on the 2080Ti block I ordered


Bought a few items from Watercool website the past month, it takes about 2-3 days to ship and a total of 7 days to arrive. The delay might of been a product out of stock.


----------



## Zammin

bites said:


> Bought a few items from Watercool website the past month, it takes about 2-3 days to ship and a total of 7 days to arrive. The delay might of been a product out of stock.


That's pretty quick! The items I ordered were in stock so hopefully next week all being well


----------



## svntwoo

YNONO said:


> You can convert the 150 mm tube to 200 mm with new aluminum struts and a 200 mm tube, Both parts are in stock at
> Performance PC. .It will add about 40 to $45 to your order.
> If you really want it, That's what you can do.
> 
> I have the Lian Li PC 011WW with a 200 mm D5 res. pump combo.
> Here is a pic to help you git an idea.


Looks awesome! I did add 200mm struts and 200mm tube to the order, rather than have to take it apart later.


----------



## Ironsmack

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Depends. On the Maxwell and Pascal generations, the logo is laser engraved on a stainless steel plate. This plate is glued into a groove in the backplate and can be taken out with some heat and gentle force. From the Volta generation on, the logo is laser engraved directly onto the aluminum and cannot be removed.



Thanks Jakob 


Im switching to silver/chrome tubes later on. I wanted to see what the silver would look like with the loop.

Backplate all painted. But im going to redo the paint and actually take off the logo sometime this year. But for now, im going to enjoy this setup until i get the rest of my parts for my X399 re-build.


----------



## Section31

Just installed the RTX2080TI Black Nickel Block. Really nice and will put it in my system on the weekend (requires too much work that can't be done in an evening after work). Hopefully this GPU is not one of the random dying ones, it was more work to install this than the 1080TI block.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> Hey sorry for what might be a silly question, but when you guys order your blocks from the Watercool website how long does it normally take before they ship? The website says within 5-7 days but I read earlier that someone has been waiting a month. Can't find the post now though so I'm not sure what the deal is.
> 
> I'm super excited to get my hands on the 2080Ti block I ordered


Usually, an order is built, processed and shipped within 1-2 business days. Unfortunately, the story is a little bit different for RTX20 components: we are still receiving more orders for these blocks and backplates daily than we can produce. So we are still on a backorder for these parts. This means that orders containing RTX20 components have a significantly longer waiting time. It continuously gets better, and we are working hard to catch up to the current demand, but truth be told: you should still expect at least a week of waiting for RTX orders. 




Mad Monk said:


> A few weeks back you shared that the Heatkiller controller was pushed back until Q one or two (forgot which - sorry) 2019 to incorporate our feedback into the prototype. Bravo! To this I say take as long as needful to get it right.
> (...)
> Make no mistake, I covet, desire, and if I can afford it, as it has been shared here, shall buy this controller. What I would appreciate, when you can spare the time, is an update on what Heatkiller is planning to bring to market. A generic, will not hold you to it, price point would be very helpful and I'll not hold anybody to it in the prototype phase. If you need beta testers I am offering my paltry system and dubious skills to be of assistance.
> 
> With all that on the record, any updates would be appreciated.
> 
> (...)
> PS: I actually registered for your website just to say thank you for your efforts here. Silly perhaps, but since I am vociferous when I have a complaint, it seemed fair to me to acknowledge a good thing and hopefully provide encouragement for a continuation.  Thank you once again!


Hey, thank you for the kind words, I appreciate your feedback! 



About the controller: as you remember correctly, we received a lot of feedback for it, and are working on integrating it. As you know, we are a heavy tooling company, so the assembly of the PCBs is outsourced. The next batch of prototypes with all new features is currently in assembly. The programmers are also constantly working on the project, but are currently a bit on hold, since they are waiting for the new prototypes. But after all, the project is moving along, and we make progress on all parts. 

We do not have a set price point. But the unit will, obviously, be competing against a certain product from another german company (), so the pricing will be competitive. Due to the modular nature of the whole system, you will be able to get a rather cheap entry point, but the full system with all thinkable features will well be in the three-digit numbers. 

ETA is still up for debate. We do not release a product unless it is DONE. So the current schedule does, indeed, point to a release in first half of 2019, but if we realize that we're not absolutely convinced by the product, we have no problem with postponing it and making it RIGHT before we release it. 




Ironsmack said:


> Thanks Jakob
> 
> 
> Im switching to silver/chrome tubes later on. I wanted to see what the silver would look like with the loop.
> 
> Backplate all painted. But im going to redo the paint and actually take off the logo sometime this year. But for now, im going to enjoy this setup until i get the rest of my parts for my X399 re-build.





Section31 said:


> Just installed the RTX2080TI Black Nickel Block. Really nice and will put it in my system on the weekend (requires too much work that can't be done in an evening after work). Hopefully this GPU is not one of the random dying ones, it was more work to install this than the 1080TI block.


Thanks for the pictures, I always love to see our products put to use by you guys! And even though that the general setup is basically similar, it's great to see all the differences between systems!


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Usually, an order is built, processed and shipped within 1-2 business days. Unfortunately, the story is a little bit different for RTX20 components: we are still receiving more orders for these blocks and backplates daily than we can produce. So we are still on a backorder for these parts. This means that orders containing RTX20 components have a significantly longer waiting time. It continuously gets better, and we are working hard to catch up to the current demand, but truth be told: you should still expect at least a week of waiting for RTX orders.


When you say back order, do you mean you don't have stock of the blocks and back plates? Because both the block and back plate said "in stock" on the online store when I ordered, in fact all the RTX 2080Ti blocks say in stock right now.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> the unit will, obviously, be competing against a certain product from another german company ()


I couldn't possibly guess whom you're talking about ^^

If you don't mind my asking, will soon be in need of a second autonomous controller; so with my full understanding that everything's still subject to change, etc. etc., i was wondering if you can provide some general.. broad..(?) outline of what you're going for in terms of fan control? Specifically for the fan speed controlling aspect, we leave everything else aside;
Like, 
1) 'x' number of fan channels total _and_ simultaneous, 
2) 'y' number of fans per channel, conditions there may be (and/or how many before 'z' extra requirement), 
3) options we may have in terms of autonomy. For instance, contrary to most, i opt for running my Aquaero unconnected to the mobo, no link. Will there be a similar option without our needing to sacrifice functions?

Your capability/willingness to answer aside, a humble suggestion: Send out samples _before_ its official launch; you aren't the first company to go for an Aquaero equivalent, could remind of famous brands that attempted to and ultimately gave up or were met with err, lukewarm reception; and of course, some of us here remember those; what i'm trying to say is that it's a bit of a thing, spending 478462544128 euro for a rig, 3 or 4 days setting it up, and then finding out your controller's insufficient.. just emptying the loop and disassembling again.. so i could fathom a certain hesitation coming into play, for first adopters i mean (self included). Advance samples being sent to select individuals would surely help in that aspect.


----------



## Vlada011

Section31 said:


> Just installed the RTX2080TI Black Nickel Block. Really nice and will put it in my system on the weekend (requires too much work that can't be done in an evening after work). Hopefully this GPU is not one of the random dying ones, it was more work to install this than the 1080TI block.


It's beautiful block.
But I prefer Acetal Ni with backplate.
They are most beautiful on market.


----------



## Mad Monk

*Thank You*

About the controller: as you remember correctly, we received a lot of feedback for it, and are working on integrating it. As you know, we are a heavy tooling company, so the assembly of the PCBs is outsourced. The next batch of prototypes with all new features is currently in assembly. The programmers are also constantly working on the project, but are currently a bit on hold, since they are waiting for the new prototypes. But after all, the project is moving along, and we make progress on all parts. 

We do not have a set price point. But the unit will, obviously, be competing against a certain product from another german company (), so the pricing will be competitive. Due to the modular nature of the whole system, you will be able to get a rather cheap entry point, but the full system with all thinkable features will well be in the three-digit numbers. 

ETA is still up for debate. We do not release a product unless it is DONE. So the current schedule does, indeed, point to a release in first half of 2019, but if we realize that we're not absolutely convinced by the product, we have no problem with postponing it and making it RIGHT before we release it. 

Thank You Sir!

I can understand the dance between prototyping, resources, and release. With that acknowledged, this is the first time I have been this *excited *about a new product in a long time.  Please, keep us updated as this product moves from prototype to release. Your mention of "*ut the full system with all thinkable features..." Is both exciting and scary. Mayhaps, in January you could expand in this a tad?! Email, PM, Public post, or smoke signals make no-never-mind, as and when you can share updates will be appreciated; just begging for what you can share when you can share it.

Once again thank you!

Cheers,

MM*


----------



## Zammin

Zammin said:


> When you say back order, do you mean you don't have stock of the blocks and back plates? Because both the block and back plate said "in stock" on the online store when I ordered, in fact all the RTX 2080Ti blocks say in stock right now.


Sorry to keep bugging you @Watercool-Jakob but can you please clarify this for me? I'm confused about the whole "in stock" thing when you mentioned the products are on back order.. This is my first time ordering from Watercool so I don't fully understand what this means.


----------



## Vlada011

Guys let's make Heatkiller products more popular and help to less people who first time enter in watercooling finish in situation as me to long save money for watercooling and than to need to replace few things again to finaly finish loop instead to buy Samsung 970 1TB as I planned need to compensate bad quality and politic of EKWB turned in RGB direction and show room RIGs.
In one moment I asked self how EK give so many sponsorships and now I think that QC with more tolerance to error and bad quality easy compensate that.


----------



## paskowitz

Vlada011 said:


> Guys let's make Heatkiller products more popular and help to less people who first time enter in watercooling finish in situation as me to long save money for watercooling and than to need to replace few things again to finaly finish loop instead to buy Samsung 970 1TB as I planned need to compensate bad quality and politic of EKWB turned in RGB direction and show room RIGs.
> In one moment I asked self how EK give so many sponsorships and now I think that QC with more tolerance to error and bad quality easy compensate that.



I try to steer people to quality brands (Watercool one among them) whenever/wherever I can. It's not some "love for a brand", their products are just flatly better than the vast majority of the competition. When you are spending $,$$$ and hours of time on a custom loop, that matters (more than just your typical DIY rig). Not to mention fixing faulty products in a custom loop because of low QC brands is a nightmare that I wish upon no person. Doubly so if you are building a compute for a paying custom (my situation). 

IMO, the best thing for a quality company like Watercool is that once you own the product, that's pretty much it, it speaks for itself and then that WOM carries. I do think the point of sponsorship is rather annoying though. 

EK, Alphacool and TT have a death grip on YouTube where the majority of the impressions and impressionable are. It's not just money though, the content that works (views) for these YT'ers is mostly "look at this shinny build" and that plays well to EK/Alphacool/TT brand image and product positioning. It's nice to see YT'ers like Steve from Gamer's Nexus using the MO-RA for his benchmarking purposes. IMO, the main problem is there is no "large" YT'ers who focus on benchmarking and comparative analysis of custom water cooling products. In fact, you've only got 3 websites that even do this (Thermalbench, ExtremeRigs and HardOCP. Maybe another I am missing). In this type of content, Watercool (and other quality brands) would stand out because, again, the quality of the product would speak for itself.

I've been lobbying Steve from Gamer's Nexus to get into custom water cooling content. While he is "receptive" to the idea, he simply doesn't have the bandwidth for that type of content right now (setting up a new production space). 

The good news is Watercool's products are selling. You don't really need Jakob to tell you that. I've definitely notice more Heatkiller products in builds this year vs previous years.


----------



## Vlada011

I completely understand you... First time I was desperate with computer parts...
I couldn't install tube on fitting because bad EK batch, coolant arrived yellowish instead clear, D5 G2 PWM pump grind, radiator core move inside housing.
What to say on such things... Normal brand refund such things and ask parts back. They didn't even offered crosshiping RMA to give me 2-3 days to be without of computer not 15 days.

Now new D5 pump, new radiator and new pump/res combo.
Later new CPU waterblock. It's terrible when you buy expensive parts and someone sold you Not Passed QC Products.

Only to replace radiator and pump/res combo and everything will be easier.
But it's not only pump/res combo, for other type I need to buy basic mount kit and 120 radiator mount. That's 30 euro only mounting kit plus multi top port.
That's 50 euro extra because I planned completely different parts and both different mounting bracket.


----------



## Vlada011

Caseklng get IV PRO Black Copper week after I asked.
Now I seriously think to buy MO-RA3 Stainless Steel 360 to put from left side of Monitor and connect to Lian Li with Koolance PCI-E slot bracket.

https://www.caseking.de/koolance-pc...1-4-zoll-durchfuehrungen-silber-wazu-752.html

Than my Lian Li will be clean of radiators and I will have whole system later if I want to use small PC-Q37.

Dear god, where to find money for 6 Noctua NF-A12x25, I have 3 I need 6 more.
If someone notice some good review of MO-RA3 360 Stainless Steel and what you get inside package should post here.
Because I see some pictures with mask and grills with and without and no video clips.


----------



## GAN77

Vlada011 said:


> https://www.caseking.de/koolance-pc...1-4-zoll-durchfuehrungen-silber-wazu-752.html


http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50601


----------



## Vlada011

Hm thanks that's even better. 

But you know how much cost rest of fans in my part East of Europe.
36 euro x6. 216 euro 6 fans... and 300 for all accessories for radiators with him.
With Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM on 1500 RPM, that would be temperatures similar to two GTS 560.

But to be honest they look bad ass with their silve mask on them and grill and Heatkiller tube hooked on side.
Exactly tubes could go behind monitor and in PC case. I believe D5 on 5 is enough pressure.


----------



## svntwoo

Official. I am part of the club.


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> Official. I am part of the club.


God damn you got your 2080Ti block fast. Mine still hasn't shipped and I still don't have a clear picture as to what's going on. The website still says in stock but Jakob says they're all on back order. But you got yours pretty fast so IDK what's going on anymore lol

Do you remember what date you placed your order?


----------



## Jspinks020

That is Heatkiller...Block has masss to it too. It is good days for good Blocks at least.


----------



## svntwoo

Zammin said:


> God damn you got your 2080Ti block fast. Mine still hasn't shipped and I still don't have a clear picture as to what's going on. The website still says in stock but Jakob says they're all on back order. But you got yours pretty fast so IDK what's going on anymore lol
> 
> Do you remember what date you placed your order?


I ordered from PPCs on Cyber Monday. 




Jspinks020 said:


> That is Heatkiller...Block has masss to it too. It is good days for good Blocks at least.


This thing is HEAVY as heck, I had an EK block I picked up and since returned to MC but it weighed half what this Heatkiller does! 
Gonna have to figure out some support options.


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> I ordered from PPCs on Cyber Monday.


Oh you ordered from a reseller. That explains it. I ordered direct from Watercool since nowhere else had the Black RGB nickel version in stock.

I'm still confused about the whole item being in stock according to the website but according to Jakob they're on back order. Perhaps there's something to the process that isn't made clear during purchase or something that I just don't understand since this is the first time I've dealt with Watercool. I asked Jakob if he could clarify what he meant a few days ago but he hasn't checked back in here yet. I was originally expecting to get the block within a week or so since the store said (and still says) "In Stock" and the shipping was _very_ expensive (DHL Express to Australia 3-4 days) but nothing has shipped and the status still reads "in processing" :/

This is the last thing I need to do my build and we are approaching Christmas.. so I really hope it ships soon..


----------



## Jspinks020

svntwoo said:


> I ordered from PPCs on Cyber Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is HEAVY as heck, I had an EK block I picked up and since returned to MC but it weighed half what this Heatkiller does!
> Gonna have to figure out some support options.


Block Collection will be ever increasing. The Ryzen Block will be one of those Byski's, like I said looks sorta like something Barrow did, Nickel base and all. I think will work well and Wonder about the LED, red and lit up would look cool with all this rgb junk lol.


----------



## Vlada011

What you need support, some kind of holder for VGA.
You can find on MNPCTECH or Barrowch made. MNPCTECH if from aluminum and look great.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> What you need support, some kind of holder for VGA.
> You can find on MNPCTECH or Barrowch made. MNPCTECH if from aluminum and look great.


The MNPCTECH one looks awesome but they appear to be out of stock for all versions :/


----------



## empyr

I use this to prevent any sag, it works well: http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/999.html


----------



## Zammin

empyr said:


> I use this to prevent any sag, it works well: http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/999.html


I actually just ordered one of those now since the MNPC brackets weren't available. Good to know they work well. I ordered a black one for $28AUD posted which seemed like a pretty good deal. It's interesting how there aren't many aluminium options on the market, most are plastic/plexi. The metal is much nicer IMO.


----------



## empyr

Zammin said:


> I actually just ordered one of those now since the MNPC brackets weren't available. Good to know they work well. I ordered a black one for $28AUD posted which seemed like a pretty good deal. It's interesting how there aren't many aluminium options on the market, most are plastic/plexi. The metal is much nicer IMO.


I personally didn't see the MNPC bracket when i was looking at one, but it looks solid too.

Enjoy the purchase however! I've got a black one aswell. :thumb:


----------



## NewType88

I use this for sag prevention. https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graph...TF8&qid=1543781589&sr=8-1&keywords=uphere+gpu


----------



## svntwoo

I may be changing my mind on the vertical mount, I have read so many negative reviews of issues with the PCI extenders that I am going back to default config. 

I have to say props to the custom loop guys, I struggled off and on all day trying to figure out how to mount my pump/res. I think I finally got it figured out, wish I could get the drain lower but this will work with some tilting of the case to drain.


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> I may be changing my mind on the vertical mount, I have read so many negative reviews of issues with the PCI extenders that I am going back to default config.
> 
> I have to say props to the custom loop guys, I struggled off and on all day trying to figure out how to mount my pump/res. I think I finally got it figured out, wish I could get the drain lower but this will work with some tilting of the case to drain.


Don't worry about it too much man, if you want to mount it vertically go for it. The Lian Li riser cable is one of the better quality ones. I've been using a basic Cooler Master one that came with the vertical mounting kit I bought before the Lian Li one was available and it's fine.

I love the vertical mount look but I may return to horizontal mounting so I can put another radiator on the floor. Otherwise I'd definitely stick with it.


----------



## svntwoo

Zammin said:


> Don't worry about it too much man, if you want to mount it vertically go for it. The Lian Li riser cable is one of the better quality ones. I've been using a basic Cooler Master one that came with the vertical mounting kit I bought before the Lian Li one was available and it's fine.
> 
> I love the vertical mount look but I may return to horizontal mounting so I can put another radiator on the floor. Otherwise I'd definitely stick with it.


Ah... more delays if I order the LIAN LI O11D-1X, however, I did email Baron and he said they have them in stock for $59 shipped directly from LL. I'll decide tomorrow.


----------



## Section31

Thanks Heatkiller for making best looking and high quality stuff at ekwb pricing.

Beautiful GPU block and matches with the system. Only the best but some parts cost more than they are worth (Heatkiller/Aquacomputer/HardwareLabs/Bitspower/Mayhem). At some point in the future, I will replace one of the two d5's with the newly announced Aquacomputer d5 next pump i just preordered.


----------



## skingun

Woohoo another S8. Nice rig. Here's mine...


----------



## Zammin

A question for those of you that have the Heatkiller tube reservoirs or pump combo units with LED strips fitted to the struts, where did you run your cables for the lighting strips so that they were out of sight? I can see the ease of installation in that you just stick the strips on the inside of the struts but I have no clue where to run the wires so that they can't be seen.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> When you say back order, do you mean you don't have stock of the blocks and back plates? Because both the block and back plate said "in stock" on the online store when I ordered, in fact all the RTX 2080Ti blocks say in stock right now.


Yeah, I understand how that seems a bit odd. You need to bear in mind that we are a manufacturer in the first place. Our own shop is only an added optional distribution way. We list everything "in stock" that we can currently manufacture. So "in stock" does not mean "there is a physical copy of this product laying in the shelf, ready to be shipped immediately", but rather "we are currently producing this item or still can re-produce new batches of it". This system works well for us with all established product lines, but we see it reaching its limit on new product releases, as with RTX20: we were getting more orders each day then what we can produce per day, which obviously meant that our in-house supply ran dry. So we are manufacturing these parts at full speed, trying to catch up to the increased demand. So for the next major product release, we will need to change this system.





svntwoo said:


> This thing is HEAVY as heck, I had an EK block I picked up and since returned to MC but it weighed half what this Heatkiller does!
> Gonna have to figure out some support options.


The block weighs about 1250 grams. This is still well within the ATX specifications for PCI slots. In our tests, we didn't experience any significant sag: since the block covers the entire length of the PCB with rigid copper, it prevents any warping or tilting all by itself. We recommend screwing in all PCI bracket holding screws fully, obviously, and checking them once in a while.
Also, we do not recommend routing the power cables from the card to the ground, as this can apply additional force. If possible, we recommend routing the power cables from above the card. 




Zammin said:


> A question for those of you that have the Heatkiller tube reservoirs or pump combo units with LED strips fitted to the struts, where did you run your cables for the lighting strips so that they were out of sight? I can see the ease of installation in that you just stick the strips on the inside of the struts but I have no clue where to run the wires so that they can't be seen.


Usually, you'll use one of the two struts that are in the back of the res for the lighting strip. This way, it's usually pretty easy to route the cables out through the back.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yeah, I understand how that seems a bit odd. You need to bear in mind that we are a manufacturer in the first place. Our own shop is only an added optional distribution way. We list everything "in stock" that we can currently manufacture. So "in stock" does not mean "there is a physical copy of this product laying in the shelf, ready to be shipped immediately", but rather "we are currently producing this item or still can re-produce new batches of it". This system works well for us with all established product lines, but we see it reaching its limit on new product releases, as with RTX20: we were getting more orders each day then what we can produce per day, which obviously meant that our in-house supply ran dry. So we are manufacturing these parts at full speed, trying to catch up to the increased demand. So for the next major product release, we will need to change this system.


Right, I see now. I was not previously aware that Watercool does not keep stock of items, but rather makes them to order. I have to say though, for new buyers like myself who have never dealt with Watercool before, when we see "In Stock" on a product listing we will always assume this means the product is readily available and on hand, as that is what the term "In Stock" means in a literal sense.

During my checkout process I just saw that all the items in the order were in stock and the delivery method was DHL Express shipping with an estimate of a few days. Naturally based off this information I assumed that I'd have the items within a week or so.

A a suggestion, perhaps it would be worth replacing the word "In Stock" on the appropriate product pages to an ETA on manufacturing to shipping. Such as "Made to order, typically ships within X days" so that newcomers like me will know what to expect. If I wasn't a participant of this forum and hadn't sent a message to support I would still be left wondering what was happening with my order at this point. I hope this suggestion is helpful to avoid misunderstandings in future.

Sorry to bug you with this, but any idea what the expected wait time is from today? My order number is #10499 and I'm wondering how far back I am in the queue seeing as you mentioned that you guys are getting hammered with orders. The block is the last thing I need to start my build, and with Christmas approaching I don't know if DHL will be slowing down or closing down at some point.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Usually, you'll use one of the two struts that are in the back of the res for the lighting strip. This way, it's usually pretty easy to route the cables out through the back.


Ah right, I was thinking if I were to use one of these I would want the LED strips on the front struts so the LEDs aren't in direct line of sight. I suppose one could run the cables down the front struts and curve them around the glass cylinder and out the back.

Alternatively, might you happen to know if there is enough clearance between the glass tube and the struts to fit one of these? http://www.au.aquatuning.com/modding/leds/21102/alphacool-aurora-led-ring-60mm-rgb


----------



## empyr

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The block weighs about 1250 grams. This is still well within the ATX specifications for PCI slots. In our tests, we didn't experience any significant sag: since the block covers the entire length of the PCB with rigid copper, it prevents any warping or tilting all by itself. We recommend screwing in all PCI bracket holding screws fully, obviously, and checking them once in a while.
> Also, we do not recommend routing the power cables from the card to the ground, as this can apply additional force. If possible, we recommend routing the power cables from above the card.



Personally, i just had some slight sag. It wasn't significant in any way, I just wanted to be on the safe side and make sure it's got the support it requires at all times.


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> I may be changing my mind on the vertical mount, I have read so many negative reviews of issues with the PCI extenders that I am going back to default config.
> 
> I have to say props to the custom loop guys, I struggled off and on all day trying to figure out how to mount my pump/res. I think I finally got it figured out, wish I could get the drain lower but this will work with some tilting of the case to drain.


Hey svntwoo, that's a tube 200 D5 you've got there in your O11-DX case yeah? Could you please do me a favor and take a photo of it from a flat side view of the case?

I just ordered mine for my O11-DX and I'm keen to see what it looks like height-wise.


----------



## svntwoo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The block weighs about 1250 grams. This is still well within the ATX specifications for PCI slots. In our tests, we didn't experience any significant sag: since the block covers the entire length of the PCB with rigid copper, it prevents any warping or tilting all by itself. We recommend screwing in all PCI bracket holding screws fully, obviously, and checking them once in a while.
> Also, we do not recommend routing the power cables from the card to the ground, as this can apply additional force. If possible, we recommend routing the power cables from above the card.


Thanks! Another quick one for you, with the Heatkiller IV LGA1151 CPU block, do you need to use the HEATKILLER® IV Backplate INTEL 1150/1151/1155/1156 Product no.: 10013

I completely spaced ordering backplates when I placed my order from PPC's, so I was going to overnight both the CPU and GPU backplates, but they do not have a CPU backplate in stock, nor does anyone in the US. Is the cpu backplate needed or should the stock backplate work? ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero board. 


Side note: Confirmed the stock Gigabyte RTX 2080ti Windforce OC backplate will not work the Heatkiller IV gpu block.


----------



## Section31

svntwoo said:


> Thanks! Another quick one for you, with the Heatkiller IV LGA1151 CPU block, do you need to use the HEATKILLER® IV Backplate INTEL 1150/1151/1155/1156 Product no.: 10013
> 
> I completely spaced ordering backplates when I placed my order from PPC's, so I was going to overnight both the CPU and GPU backplates, but they do not have a CPU backplate in stock, nor does anyone in the US. Is the cpu backplate needed or should the stock backplate work? ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero board.
> 
> 
> Side note: Confirmed the stock Gigabyte RTX 2080ti Windforce OC backplate will not work the Heatkiller IV gpu block.


I have tried it before with friends build, not required but I generally order in case. Better safe than sorry.


----------



## paskowitz

svntwoo said:


> Thanks! Another quick one for you, with the Heatkiller IV LGA1151 CPU block, do you need to use the HEATKILLER® IV Backplate INTEL 1150/1151/1155/1156 Product no.: 10013
> 
> I completely spaced ordering backplates when I placed my order from PPC's, so I was going to overnight both the CPU and GPU backplates, but they do not have a CPU backplate in stock, nor does anyone in the US. Is the cpu backplate needed or should the stock backplate work? ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero board.
> 
> 
> Side note: Confirmed the stock Gigabyte RTX 2080ti Windforce OC backplate will not work the Heatkiller IV gpu block.



Backplate is not needed. It provides more distributed and even mounting pressure. This puts a less stress on the board and may result in marginally better contact with the CPU.


----------



## svntwoo

paskowitz said:


> svntwoo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Another quick one for you, with the Heatkiller IV LGA1151 CPU block, do you need to use the HEATKILLER®️ IV Backplate INTEL 1150/1151/1155/1156 Product no.: 10013
> 
> I completely spaced ordering backplates when I placed my order from PPC's, so I was going to overnight both the CPU and GPU backplates, but they do not have a CPU backplate in stock, nor does anyone in the US. Is the cpu backplate needed or should the stock backplate work? ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero board.
> 
> 
> Side note: Confirmed the stock Gigabyte RTX 2080ti Windforce OC backplate will not work the Heatkiller IV gpu block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backplate is not needed. It provides more distributed and even mounting pressure. This puts a less stress on the board and may result in marginally better contact with the CPU.
Click to expand...

I have looked everywhere online in the US, not a single vendor has the backplate in stock. Weird being such a low cost item, I would think they would have a handful in stock. I could either YOLO without it or order direct from Watercool who does have it in stock.


----------



## Kapov

*Backplate*

Hey guys, just bought a Heatkiller block for my evga 2080 xc. Do i need the extra backplate or can i use the stock one? 



Really nice builds in here, hope i can post something in the future too


----------



## svntwoo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The block weighs about 1250 grams. This is still well within the ATX specifications for PCI slots. In our tests, we didn't experience any significant sag: since the block covers the entire length of the PCB with rigid copper, it prevents any warping or tilting all by itself. We recommend screwing in all PCI bracket holding screws fully, obviously, and checking them once in a while.
> Also, we do not recommend routing the power cables from the card to the ground, as this can apply additional force. If possible, we recommend routing the power cables from above the card.


I didn't mean it negatively, it is a sign of a quality product and more mass to dissipate heat


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> A a suggestion, perhaps it would be worth replacing the word "In Stock" on the appropriate product pages to an ETA on manufacturing to shipping. Such as "Made to order, typically ships within X days" so that newcomers like me will know what to expect.


Thanks for the input. We are unhappy with how the shop works currently, as well, and are looking for improvements, so your feedback is appreciated. We'll discuss your suggested changes!





> Alternatively, might you happen to know if there is enough clearance between the glass tube and the struts to fit one of these? http://www.au.aquatuning.com/modding/leds/21102/alphacool-aurora-led-ring-60mm-rgb


Won't work. Our glass tube has an outer diameter of 65mm, not 60mm. Plus, the aluminum struts sit flush to the glass, so this will not be compatible at all.




svntwoo said:


> Thanks! Another quick one for you, with the Heatkiller IV LGA1151 CPU block, do you need to use the HEATKILLER® IV Backplate INTEL 1150/1151/1155/1156 Product no.: 10013


It's not required. You can install the block without any problem without the backplate. But it makes installation significantly easier and helps in spreading the pressure.




Kapov said:


> Hey guys, just bought a Heatkiller block for my evga 2080 xc. Do i need the extra backplate or can i use the stock one?


The stock backplate will not be compatible. If you want a backplate, you'll have to either modify the stock one, or get ours.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the input. We are unhappy with how the shop works currently, as well, and are looking for improvements, so your feedback is appreciated. We'll discuss your suggested changes!



No worries, looking forward to seeing how it turns out in the future. If you do get a chance to check on my order status (maybe an ETA based on my position in the queue) please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated. I've got everything here ready to go, once I have the GPU block I can commence the work.



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Won't work. Our glass tube has an outer diameter of 65mm, not 60mm. Plus, the aluminum struts sit flush to the glass, so this will not be compatible at all.


Ah yes you are correct.. I don't know why I thought it was 60mm.. Damn. Thanks for the info.


----------



## NewType88

Hey so I’m getting real interested in the mo-ra3 and I was wondering how would I control pump and fans if not connecting it to my Mobo or power supply ? I’d like to maintain control over rpms.


----------



## Jspinks020

Well I don't know that's a big copper thing. LM still kinda eats into it and you need to sand it. Nickel/Base just gets kinda stained of sorts.


----------



## Dotachin

NewType88 said:


> Hey so I’m getting real interested in the mo-ra3 and I was wondering how would I control pump and fans if not connecting it to my Mobo or power supply ? I’d like to maintain control over rpms.


If you get the 360, you can use 4 silverstone AP181 ($20 to $25 each) which come with an integrated 3-step switch for rpm (and also already have a plastic grill if used in pull).


----------



## NewType88

Dotachin said:


> If you get the 360, you can use 4 silverstone AP181 ($20 to $25 each) which come with an integrated 3-step switch for rpm (and also already have a plastic grill if used in pull).


If I get the 360 I’m going to get nf-a12’s, but I’m thinking if I’m going to get this big rad might as well get the 420 version. So I’ll probably get 4 200mm fans. Either way I’d like to have full control over rpm even though the fans will never have to ramp up because there’s so much surface area.

This is what I have in mind. Just don’t know my options for pump and fan control this route.


----------



## NewType88

How did this guy do this ? I'm not seeing information on power switches or if the guys that are mounting reservoirs are doing it because they drilled holes in the unit ? Would love some help....


----------



## DaLiu

Any idea if Aqua-Computer D5 NEXT Pump can be mounted on HEATKILLER® Tube 200 D5? Thank you!


----------



## GAN77

DaLiu said:


> Any idea if Aqua-Computer D5 NEXT Pump can be mounted on HEATKILLER® Tube 200 D5? Thank you!


A good idea! It is realizable!


----------



## GAN77

Watercool released HEATKILLER® IV for ASUS RTX 2080 Ti STRIX

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15626


----------



## SoMBrA

GAN77 said:


> A good idea! It is realizable!


Is that combo yours? Looks very good. I didn't know it would fit?
Can you put the pump at any direction? Like turn it to out the display where the inlet outlet are located? 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## GAN77

This is not my photo. I think there is no problem turning the pump with the display. Nothing prevents this.


----------



## SoMBrA

GAN77 said:


> This is not my photo. I think there is no problem turning the pump with the display. Nothing prevents this.


Thanks!
You need Aquaero in order to use this pump or it works as a standalone device? (screen configuration and so) 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## GAN77

SoMBrA said:


> Thanks!
> You need Aquaero in order to use this pump or it works as a standalone device? (screen configuration and so)


Enough software aquasuite.

I apologize for the offtopic


----------



## broodro0ster

SoMBrA said:


> Thanks!
> You need Aquaero in order to use this pump or it works as a standalone device? (screen configuration and so)
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk




No. You can connect it via internal USB and control it with Aquasuite.


----------



## Section31

I am going to do that exactly for my friends build. Heatkiller stuff so hard to find unless you buy direct from them (thats what i've been doing last few orders for their parts). Works out same price wise so costs are no issue thankfully. Mounting it might be an concern as I forgot that I may need the basic mount and fan mounts. Currently only have an unused long stand but forgot the pump might be too big for it. I guess worse come to worse, I have to do some work with stryofoam.

I ordered one also for my backup pump but will put it in at some point. I wonder how does the fan header works, can we somehow connect it with aquacomputer fan controller extension (not the aquaero).


----------



## DaLiu

Section31 said:


> I am going to do that exactly for my friends build. Heatkiller stuff so hard to find unless you buy direct from them (thats what i've been doing last few orders for their parts). Works out same price wise so costs are no issue thankfully. Mounting it might be an concern as I forgot that I may need the basic mount and fan mounts. Currently only have an unused long stand but forgot the pump might be too big for it. I guess worse come to worse, I have to do some work with stryofoam.
> 
> I ordered one also for my backup pump but will put it in at some point. I wonder how does the fan header works, can we somehow connect it with aquacomputer fan controller extension (not the aquaero).


I think Aqua-Computer SPLITTY9 will do the job, I am thinking for the same combination and control the pump and the fans from the Aqua-Computer software.


----------



## Zammin

Got my 2080 Ti block today. Thanks Jakob!

Just waiting on my Tube 200 D5, although I bought that one through a re-seller (only decided to buy one after I already placed my GPU block order) and I think they used some really slow form of DHL this time so I might not see it until next year :/


----------



## CaliLife17

Got my 2x 2080ti blocks and back plates yesterday. Coming from EKWB vector blocks, and man do these Heatkillers have some weight to them.

Does anyone know what the thermal conductivity is for the included thermal pads with the Heatkiller blocks? I normally replace EKWB’s stock thermal pads as they are pretty bad. So wondering how the stock thermal pads with Heatkiller blocks perform to see if I should order some Grizzly Pads or Fujipoly pads. @Watercool-Jakob I didn’t see this info anywhere on the website, either on the blocks page, or even the shop page for the replacement pads.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

NewType88 said:


> If I get the 360 I’m going to get nf-a12’s, but I’m thinking if I’m going to get this big rad might as well get the 420 version. So I’ll probably get 4 200mm fans. Either way I’d like to have full control over rpm even though the fans will never have to ramp up because there’s so much surface area.
> 
> This is what I have in mind. Just don’t know my options for pump and fan control this route.





NewType88 said:


> How did this guy do this ? I'm not seeing information on power switches or if the guys that are mounting reservoirs are doing it because they drilled holes in the unit ? Would love some help....
> 
> https://youtu.be/s9-EzxVssRc


The most common solution are splitters and cable extensions. If you want to have it neat and tidy, you can consider soldering your own custom cable - a lot of our customers went with Lumberg connectors. 

If you are interested in the specific solution by this specific builder, you should contact them directly.






CaliLife17 said:


> Does anyone know what the thermal conductivity is for the included thermal pads with the Heatkiller blocks? I normally replace EKWB’s stock thermal pads as they are pretty bad. So wondering how the stock thermal pads with Heatkiller blocks perform to see if I should order some Grizzly Pads or Fujipoly pads. @*Watercool-Jakob* I didn’t see this info anywhere on the website, either on the blocks page, or even the shop page for the replacement pads.


Our pads are rated at 3W/mK.


----------



## NewType88

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The most common solution are splitters and cable extensions. If you want to have it neat and tidy, you can consider soldering your own custom cable - a lot of our customers went with Lumberg connectors.
> 
> If you are interested in the specific solution by this specific builder, you should contact them directly.



It has begun ! I bought the PCI pass through yesterday. Ok, thanks. My pc is on the desk and I will have the rad on the floor. Would (2) 3ft extension cables degrade the signal for the fans or pump ? I wanna have enough slack because my desk is also height adjustable. Would a single D5 be enough ?

I contacted that guy, maybe Ill get a response one day......mean while I guess the extensions are the easiest solution.

Oh and will your block for the EVGA XC ultra fit the XC2 ultra ? Only difference I think is the temp sensors ? I check your compatibility list, but not sure if its up to date or not. Thanks !


----------



## xSneak

any idea when the 2080 ti waterblocks will be in stock for us retailers?


----------



## svntwoo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Question for Jacob


With a delidded 8700k, using a Heatkiller IV cpu block on an ASUS ROG Maximus Hero mobo, is there any change needed to make certain the block seats correctly to the cpu heatspreader? 

Dual TX360 rads - loop temp is 24c
Heatkiller IV CPU block - idle 31c and under full load 80c+
Heatkiller IV GPU block - idle 24c and under full load 45c

I am wondering if I am not making good contact with the CPU block based on temps alone, I have reseated the cpu block three times and temps are not getting much better. I have added more thermal compound (thermaltake TG-7) each time and temps are out of bounds from what I am reading. Prior Corsair AIO cpu temps where steady around 66-68c. 

Thoughts please?


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> With a delidded 8700k, using a Heatkiller IV cpu block on an ASUS ROG Maximus Hero mobo, is there any change needed to make certain the block seats correctly to the cpu heatspreader?
> 
> Dual TX360 rads - loop temp is 24c
> Heatkiller IV CPU block - idle 31c and under full load 80c+
> Heatkiller IV GPU block - idle 24c and under full load 45c
> 
> I am wondering if I am not making good contact with the CPU block based on temps alone, I have reseated the cpu block three times and temps are not getting much better. I have added more thermal compound (thermaltake TG-7) each time and temps are out of bounds from what I am reading. Prior Corsair AIO cpu temps where steady around 66-68c.
> 
> Thoughts please?


Sorry I know this question was for Jakob, but as an owner of a delidded 8700k under water as well I wanted to chime in. If you're not heavily overclocked 80c with a water temp of 24c sounds quite high with liquid metal. I'm usually in the mid 70's (peak core temp) at 5Ghz and 1.35V (load) during heavy stress testing with a water temp of 28-30C (after 30 mins). That's with an EK Supremacy block, so it wouldn't be better than a Heatkiller one I don't think..

If this is the first time you have tested the CPU after delidding, could it be your liquid metal application?


----------



## svntwoo

Zammin said:


> Sorry I know this question was for Jakob, but as an owner of a delidded 8700k under water as well I wanted to chime in. If you're not heavily overclocked 80c with a water temp of 24c sounds quite high with liquid metal. I'm usually in the mid 70's (peak core temp) at 5Ghz and 1.35V (load) during heavy stress testing with a water temp of 28-30C (after 30 mins). That's with an EK Supremacy block, so it wouldn't be better than a Heatkiller one I don't think..
> 
> If this is the first time you have tested the CPU after delidding, could it be your liquid metal application?


Took the loop apart and checked, I had the block mounted "goofy" and it was not seating correctly as it was hitting capacitors on the left side... I am redoing the loop tomorrow and will let you know if temps drop, the delid was previously tested with an AIO and temps were far more stable.


----------



## J7SC

Looking forward to :wheee: the Heatkiller IV for X399...should arrive Monday just in time for the new Threadripper 2950X build, and it is the last outstanding item on the build list not in my hands yet (or on the floor, as the case may be...)


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

NewType88 said:


> It has begun ! I bought the PCI pass through yesterday. Ok, thanks. My pc is on the desk and I will have the rad on the floor. Would (2) 3ft extension cables degrade the signal for the fans or pump ? I wanna have enough slack because my desk is also height adjustable. Would a single D5 be enough ?
> 
> I contacted that guy, maybe Ill get a response one day......mean while I guess the extensions are the easiest solution.
> 
> Oh and will your block for the EVGA XC ultra fit the XC2 ultra ? Only difference I think is the temp sensors ? I check your compatibility list, but not sure if its up to date or not. Thanks !





xSneak said:


> any idea when the 2080 ti waterblocks will be in stock for us retailers?


Signal degradation is not a noticeable issue over that distance. 



The EVGA XC2 models (both 208 and 2080Ti) use a customized PCB layout that is not compatible with our blocks. And yes, the compatibility chart is always up to date. As soon as we learn about any change, we apply that 





svntwoo said:


> With a delidded 8700k, using a Heatkiller IV cpu block on an ASUS ROG Maximus Hero mobo, is there any change needed to make certain the block seats correctly to the cpu heatspreader?
> 
> Dual TX360 rads - loop temp is 24c
> Heatkiller IV CPU block - idle 31c and under full load 80c+
> Heatkiller IV GPU block - idle 24c and under full load 45c
> 
> I am wondering if I am not making good contact with the CPU block based on temps alone, I have reseated the cpu block three times and temps are not getting much better. I have added more thermal compound (thermaltake TG-7) each time and temps are out of bounds from what I am reading. Prior Corsair AIO cpu temps where steady around 66-68c.
> 
> Thoughts please?





svntwoo said:


> Took the loop apart and checked, I had the block mounted "goofy" and it was not seating correctly as it was hitting capacitors on the left side... I am redoing the loop tomorrow and will let you know if temps drop, the delid was previously tested with an AIO and temps were far more stable.



That is exactly what I wanted to recommend: on some 1151 boards, some manufacturers decided to pull the caps extremely close to the keep out areas around the socket. Our blocks are always compatible with the regular orientation (ports above each other vertically). But there are some 1151 boards where the goofy orientation (ports next to each other horizontally) is not compatible due to these caps. I expect your loop to perform normally as soon as you change the block to normal orientation.


----------



## svntwoo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That is exactly what I wanted to recommend: on some 1151 boards, some manufacturers decided to pull the caps extremely close to the keep out areas around the socket. Our blocks are always compatible with the regular orientation (ports above each other vertically). But there are some 1151 boards where the goofy orientation (ports next to each other horizontally) is not compatible due to these caps. I expect your loop to perform normally as soon as you change the block to normal orientation.



Sure enough, that was the issue and now corrected with normal orientation. Only suggestion I have would be to include something on the Watercool website showing what normal vs goofy is, I looked all over and never came across anything, I could have missed it somewhere though.


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> Sure enough, that was the issue and now corrected with normal orientation. Only suggestion I have would be to include something on the Watercool website showing what normal vs goofy is, I looked all over and never came across anything, I could have missed it somewhere though.


That looks really good man. Are you using a single LED strip or two on the res? We even have the exact same cables lmao.

How are those new TX360 radiators going for you? I bought one of those TX radiators in the 240mm size to use on the floor of my O11. Gonna see if I can still mount my GPU vertically with the radiator underneath, perhaps with a bit of modding to the bracket if need be.


----------



## J7SC

Rudolf dropped by  ...can't believe how heavy this Heatkiller IV for Threadripper is / I like it, very meaty. 

@*Watercool-Jakob* : 

Q1 - The '[directional?] flange' bit at the bottom of the inlet in the second pic below is supposed to be there, I take it ?

Q2 - Any reason why I shouldn't use MX4 as TIM. I also sill have some liquid metal but not sure how old it is and how it would react with the Nickel plating....MX4 is my go-to TIM


----------



## svntwoo

Zammin said:


> That looks really good man. Are you using a single LED strip or two on the res? We even have the exact same cables lmao.
> 
> How are those new TX360 radiators going for you? I bought one of those TX radiators in the 240mm size to use on the floor of my O11. Gonna see if I can still mount my GPU vertically with the radiator underneath, perhaps with a bit of modding to the bracket if need be.


Single red LED strip, add's just enough to the case... Even though I am considering some Mayhems X1 blood red coolant in the future, not for certain as I really do not want to have to mess with fall out or particles in the jet plates. 

So far the rads seem to work pretty well, loop temp sits between 22-23c, GPU idles at 24-25c maxes at 43c full OC load and the CPU idles at 28-29c and maxes at 62-65c with a 5.3GHz OC full load. I hoped for better CPU temps and considering a 9900k to replace the 8700k, brain says "don't do it" but I kinda don't care what rational thinking says.


----------



## Zammin

svntwoo said:


> Single red LED strip, add's just enough to the case... Even though I am considering some Mayhems X1 blood red coolant in the future, not for certain as I really do not want to have to mess with fall out or particles in the jet plates.
> 
> So far the rads seem to work pretty well, loop temp sits between 22-23c, GPU idles at 24-25c maxes at 43c full OC load and the CPU idles at 28-29c and maxes at 62-65c with a 5.3GHz OC full load. I hoped for better CPU temps and considering a 9900k to replace the 8700k, brain says "don't do it" but I kinda don't care what rational thinking says.


Wow 65C at 5.3Ghz is bloody good. My 8700k is in the mid 70's at 5Ghz, sounds like you have a great chip.

I bought a 9900k but I don't think I got a good one. Haven't got it on water yet but initial testing suggests it will need more than 1.32V load to sustain 5Ghz with AVX. If I had your 5.3Ghz chip I probably wouldn't swap it for a 9900k since you got such a good 8700k. I always seem to get average chips so it's all the same to me lol.

23C loop temp is incredible if that is under sustained full load (something like Time Spy Extreme stress test or full load gaming for 30mins+). My loop will reach around 30C under sustained full load with 2 360 radiators (EK XE360 and XSPC EX360) and fans at 1600RPM. Those TX360's must be incredibly good to sustain low 20's especially given how slim they are.

I'm still waiting on my Heatkiller Tube 200 D5 from aquatuning (no idea why postage is taking so long) so I probably won't have my system together until next year, but when I do I will post my results. Looking forward to seeing how the Heatkiller 2080Ti block does.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

svntwoo said:


> Sure enough, that was the issue and now corrected with normal orientation. Only suggestion I have would be to include something on the Watercool website showing what normal vs goofy is, I looked all over and never came across anything, I could have missed it somewhere though.


Well, it's in the manual, in the chapter "important information on the alignment"  Glad to hear that you're achieving really good temps now 




J7SC said:


> Rudolf dropped by  ...can't believe how heavy this Heatkiller IV for Threadripper is / I like it, very meaty.
> 
> @*Watercool-Jakob* :
> 
> Q1 - The '[directional?] flange' bit at the bottom of the inlet in the second pic below is supposed to be there, I take it ?
> 
> Q2 - Any reason why I shouldn't use MX4 as TIM. I also sill have some liquid metal but not sure how old it is and how it would react with the Nickel plating....MX4 is my go-to TIM


1) Yes, this directs the flow towards the jetplate and is intentional.
2)Liquid metal works great with nickel plated surfaces. It will destroy aluminum, and it forms a bond with copper, so it shouldn't be used on either of these - but it's perfectly fine with nickel plated surfaces, as this block and your IHS. So it's essentially up to you, which TIM you wanna choose.


----------



## J7SC

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, it's in the manual, in the chapter "important information on the alignment"  Glad to hear that you're achieving really good temps now
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Yes, this directs the flow towards the jetplate and is intentional.
> 2)Liquid metal works great with nickel plated surfaces. It will destroy aluminum, and it forms a bond with copper, so it shouldn't be used on either of these - but it's perfectly fine with nickel plated surfaces, as this block and your IHS. So it's essentially up to you, which TIM you wanna choose.



Thank you very much :thumb:


----------



## dasd12eqdsa

I just finished my new all-Heatkiller build. Heatkiller reservoir with a D5, Heatkiller 1080ti GPU block, and a Heatkiller CPU block. I'd have bought a Heatkiller NVME heatsink too but it doesn't look like you guys make those, so I'm stuck with the EK one for now.

This was my first build using Watercool parts, and I'm definitely a convert. The quality and design of the parts is amazing, and the customer support wonderful (I had a stripped out hole on a part of the reservoir, and Heatkiller shipped the part out immediately, no questions asked). All in all, a very pleasant experience.


----------



## Lunchbox88

@Watercool-Jakob Have you guys testing any direct die cooling on Intel 9th gen stuff with the Heatkiller IV? 
Looks like Caseking/Der8auer is selling a direct die cooling bracket now. I would be interested to see a difference in cooling temps.

Link to the bracket: https://www.caseking.de/detail/index/sArticle/51241


----------



## broodro0ster

dasd12eqdsa said:


> I just finished my new all-Heatkiller build. Heatkiller reservoir with a D5, Heatkiller 1080ti GPU block, and a Heatkiller CPU block. I'd have bought a Heatkiller NVME heatsink too but it doesn't look like you guys make those, so I'm stuck with the EK one for now.
> 
> This was my first build using Watercool parts, and I'm definitely a convert. The quality and design of the parts is amazing, and the customer support wonderful (I had a stripped out hole on a part of the reservoir, and Heatkiller shipped the part out immediately, no questions asked). All in all, a very pleasant experience.


Nice build dude! I have the same case and my Pastel Blue came in two weeks ago to pour it in my loop after the rebuild. It's a sexy color!
And just a question, what part is that between the heatkiller res brackets and the radiator?


----------



## dasd12eqdsa

broodro0ster said:


> Nice build dude! I have the same case and my Pastel Blue came in two weeks ago to pour it in my loop after the rebuild. It's a sexy color!
> And just a question, what part is that between the heatkiller res brackets and the radiator?



Thanks! I'm super happy with how it turned out. The Pastel blue is just an amazing color, I never imagined it would look so clean.

Those are actually brackets that I designed and 3D-Printed. I needed to drop the res down a bit, so I designed the brackets to give me the extra clearance I needed for my fill tube (it's not connected in this picture). I printed them with PETG and they've held perfectly well. I was worried they might transmit vibration and make it loud, but they don't seem to at all.


----------



## Zammin

Just in time for Christmas. Fantastic looking reservoir, feels very high quality. Only criticism is the packaging, it arrived intact but the only packing inside the box was two tiny bits of foam (maybe 5x1cm) and it was wrapped in some very thin paper that was kind of ripped up a bit. Would have liked to see some larger foam inserts considering these things get knocked around a lot during international postage (my shipping boxes from everywhere almost always come dented and damaged..) but it's a good thing Watercool designed the unit with the 4 struts around the glass tube, even if it wasn't the original intention they so seem to protect the glass from impacts during shipping. Looking forward to swapping my EK D5 pump into this thing.


----------



## Lunchbox88

Heatkiller IV Pro and Heatkiller Tube 100, installed with some custom mounting bracket work.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

dasd12eqdsa said:


> I just finished my new all-Heatkiller build. Heatkiller reservoir with a D5, Heatkiller 1080ti GPU block, and a Heatkiller CPU block. I'd have bought a Heatkiller NVME heatsink too but it doesn't look like you guys make those, so I'm stuck with the EK one for now.
> 
> This was my first build using Watercool parts, and I'm definitely a convert. The quality and design of the parts is amazing, and the customer support wonderful (I had a stripped out hole on a part of the reservoir, and Heatkiller shipped the part out immediately, no questions asked). All in all, a very pleasant experience.


Great to hear, and thanks for the positive feedback. Congratulations on your build, looks really nice! But yes, you are correct, we don't have an M.2 heatsink (yet). 




Lunchbox88 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Have you guys testing any direct die cooling on Intel 9th gen stuff with the Heatkiller IV?
> Looks like Caseking/Der8auer is selling a direct die cooling bracket now. I would be interested to see a difference in cooling temps.
> 
> Link to the bracket: https://www.caseking.de/detail/index/sArticle/51241


No, we haven't tested that product yet. But according to the product description, this bracket is not compatible with coolers (and waterblocks) with a fixed mounting height. This would include our blocks. So you'll either have to modify the mounting solution to make up for the changed mounting height, or you can't use the Heatkiller. 




Zammin said:


> Just in time for Christmas. Fantastic looking reservoir, feels very high quality. Only criticism is the packaging, it arrived intact but the only packing inside the box was two tiny bits of foam (maybe 5x1cm) and it was wrapped in some very thin paper that was kind of ripped up a bit. Would have liked to see some larger foam inserts considering these things get knocked around a lot during international postage (my shipping boxes from everywhere almost always come dented and damaged..) but it's a good thing Watercool designed the unit with the 4 struts around the glass tube, even if it wasn't the original intention they so seem to protect the glass from impacts during shipping. Looking forward to swapping my EK D5 pump into this thing.


Thanks for the feedback. But after more than two years of product live and thousands of units shipped worldwide, we haven't had a single glass tube break during shipping. So while I understand that it might FEEL not to well protected, the facts prove that the padding is sufficient. 




Lunchbox88 said:


> Heatkiller IV Pro and Heatkiller Tube 100, installed with some custom mounting bracket work.


Nice build, thanks for sharing!















> 2018 has been a very successful year for WATERCOOL! Not only could we finish some important industry contracts, but we could also expand our reach, market share and product portfolio for end customers. We are deeply grateful to all our customers, supporters and partners for this development!
> 2019 will see some hefty investments: several large machine purchases are already fixed. And our workshop is getting to small, again: we will build another appendix to our small factory, to accommodate additional machines and staff. With these developments, we will improve our product availability worldwide!
> To relax and regenerate for the upcoming challenges, WATERCOOL will be closed from 12/24/2018 until 1/1/2019. Emails and Support forums will neither be read nor answered. The Shop will be open and accept new orders. But we will only see, process and build these orders in 2019. Shipping is scheduled to start at 1/4/2019 again.
> We wish a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to all our customers, suppliers and partners!


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the feedback. But after more than two years of product live and thousands of units shipped worldwide, we haven't had a single glass tube break during shipping. So while I understand that it might FEEL not to well protected, the facts prove that the padding is sufficient.


Yeah I haven't heard of any breaking, I just noticed it was less packed than other models I've bought in the past. I think it was ThermalBench that said something similar in their review a while back, but honestly after getting my hands on it I think it's built so sturdy that even without the additional foam you'd have to hit it pretty damn hard to break it. Excellent work on the design.

Can't wait to put my system together with all these new parts, just waiting on my graphics card RMA if bloody Nvidia will ever respond to my emails lol..


----------



## empyr

Wish you and the rest of the Watercool team Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays. Keep on making leaps in 2019! Dont forget us Nickel backplate lovers 😄 but honestly thank you a lot for all the people you help on a daily basis, its nice to know you can get in contact with support if its required so easily! <3


----------



## J7SC

Watercool-Jakob said:


>



*' Fröhliche Weihnachten Watercool-Jakob ! '*

Also, thanks for your help the other day re. Threadripper Nickel block...the Liquid Metal Pro syringe was never opened and still in its original package - from 2012 ! Seems fine, but tests will show how it performs...MX4 tube on stand-by...


----------



## Dotachin

@Watercool-Jakob just to let you know, Asrock released a new x399 board (Phantom Gaming 6, cheapest one there is afaik $250), and it _seems_ to use the same 8 phase vrm layout as the others. So if you're still considering a vrm block for my Taichi, you could strike 4 boards with one block...


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> Just in time for Christmas. Fantastic looking reservoir, feels very high quality. Only criticism is the packaging, it arrived intact but the only packing inside the box was two tiny bits of foam (maybe 5x1cm) and it was wrapped in some very thin paper that was kind of ripped up a bit. Would have liked to see some larger foam inserts considering these things get knocked around a lot during international postage (my shipping boxes from everywhere almost always come dented and damaged..) but it's a good thing Watercool designed the unit with the 4 struts around the glass tube, even if it wasn't the original intention they so seem to protect the glass from impacts during shipping. Looking forward to swapping my EK D5 pump into this thing.


Could you describe how the dampers are made? Is it just 1 solid piece of metal through the rubbers? Or are they separate pieces that are held together by the rubber?
I would like to mount a Heatkiller 150 or 200 rad to my front rad, but I want good damping because most noise comes from vibrations. Even my desk start to vibrate when I put my pump above 4000rpm and this is with the EK soft rubbers (the one with the pins on it) in the mount.


----------



## NewType88

Can I mount a heat killer pump top to the mo-ra3 adapter ? I want the option to mount a second pump under a mounted heat killer tube and pump. Which leads me to my second question. Anyone know if you can mount TWO heat killer tube - MO-RA3 Adapters ? Its been very time consuming trying to find measurements for everything.


----------



## Madmaxneo

broodro0ster said:


> Could you describe how the dampers are made? Is it just 1 solid piece of metal through the rubbers? Or are they separate pieces that are held together by the rubber?
> I would like to mount a Heatkiller 150 or 200 rad to my front rad, but I want good damping because most noise comes from vibrations. Even my desk start to vibrate when I put my pump above 4000rpm and this is with the EK soft rubbers (the one with the pins on it) in the mount.


Your pump vibrates that badly? I've heard of vibration issues but this is crazy! 
I personally have never had an issue with vibration.


----------



## broodro0ster

Madmaxneo said:


> Your pump vibrates that badly? I've heard of vibration issues but this is crazy!
> I personally have never had an issue with vibration.


Yes, I can feel the vibration in my case at full speed and it transfers to my desk. It's not a heavy desk (Ikea) so it pretty easy to make it resonating. It's not that my desk is going to walk away, but I feel the vibrations in my hands and I don't like. So that's my I run my pump at 4000rpm or slower. 
I would to switch to Heatkiller if this can fix my issues.


----------



## Zammin

broodro0ster said:


> Could you describe how the dampers are made? Is it just 1 solid piece of metal through the rubbers? Or are they separate pieces that are held together by the rubber?
> I would like to mount a Heatkiller 150 or 200 rad to my front rad, but I want good damping because most noise comes from vibrations. Even my desk start to vibrate when I put my pump above 4000rpm and this is with the EK soft rubbers (the one with the pins on it) in the mount.


Hey man, yeah they appear to be male and female threaded ends with rubber in between, You can sort of squash the ends together with your fingers so they are indeed decoupled by the rubber damper.

I know what you mean regarding the EK reservoir. My current one is mounted to the floor of my case and I can feel some vibration on the desk near it at high RPM. I was able to slightly decrease it by loosening the two small bolts on the clamp so they were barely threaded in. That seems to reduce it's grip on the pump.

When I get all my new stuff together I'll post here if the vibrations go away or reduce with the HeatKiller res combo and decoupling kit.



broodro0ster said:


> Yes, I can feel the vibration in my case at full speed and it transfers to my desk. It's not a heavy desk (Ikea) so it pretty easy to make it resonating. It's not that my desk is going to walk away, but I feel the vibrations in my hands and I don't like. So that's my I run my pump at 4000rpm or slower.
> I would to switch to Heatkiller if this can fix my issues.


Yeah I've got an Ikea desk as well lol. One of those Bekant electric sit/stand units. Looks good but the wooden deck is thin. You can actually replace the deck on top with a much thicker one (I've seen this done a lot on youtube) but that is probably a more drastic measure than changing a reservoir haha.


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> Hey man, yeah they appear to be male and female threaded ends with rubber in between, You can sort of squash the ends together with your fingers so they are indeed decoupled by the rubber damper.
> 
> I know what you mean regarding the EK reservoir. My current one is mounted to the floor of my case and I can feel some vibration on the desk near it at high RPM. I was able to slightly decrease it by loosening the two small bolts on the clamp so they were barely threaded in. That seems to reduce it's grip on the pump.
> 
> When I get all my new stuff together I'll post here if the vibrations go away or reduce with the HeatKiller res combo and decoupling kit.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I've got an Ikea desk as well lol. One of those Bekant electric sit/stand units. Looks good but the wooden deck is thin. You can actually replace the deck on top with a much thicker one (I've seen this done a lot on youtube) but that is probably a more drastic measure than changing a reservoir haha.


Thanks man! I'm really looking forward to your review. I wanted to buy a Heatkiller res combo, but I decided a little late and I didn't order it because I wanted to finish my hard tube conversion during the holidays. It's good to hear that both ends of the dampers are decoupled.
But since rebuild I'm hunting down a really nasty vibration in my case. I've tried losening the screws, but it doesn't help. Sometimes it's better than I put a little pressure on the PSU shroud or the backplate. Maybe because hardtubing also transfers a little bit of vibrations...

I could run my pump perfectly at 4000rpm without any issues in my previous softtube builds and now it's acting weird. Although I think everything was fine yesterday.
The best thing would be decoupling my pump from the res and use a really soft pad to mount the pump, but my R6 is a little to small for that. I would need a big case with a pedestal for that...

My Ikea desk is also a Bekant, but without the electronics.


----------



## Abaidor

@jacob

Is there any chance you come out with a Stainless Steel HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter? There are only white and black options and this makes them less than ideal for my Stainless Steel MO-RA....
I am actually thinking of using one for covering the fan cables and also "guide" the top inlet tube there.....

As it stands now I might have to buy a black one and custom make a stainless steel version through a local Machining shop but this could cost a lot for what it's worth...Another way would be a custom plexi + stainless steel construction out of lazer cut pieces.....will test and see....

Nice little challenge isn't it...


----------



## Section31

For those who are thinking about mounting an aquacomputer d5 next onto an heatkiller tube d5, It does work but you have to remove the bottom of the pump that has the lcd, control and inputs. In my case, I had to remove the housing and then push out the unit. I hope the process did not damage anything. Guess I am the guinea pig to see whats inside of the housing.


----------



## Abaidor

Hmmm....that is not that nice then..Why get this pump if you have to remove the most important part of it...


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> For those who are thinking about mounting an aquacomputer d5 next onto an heatkiller tube d5, It does work but you have to remove the bottom of the pump that has the lcd, control and inputs. In my case, I had to remove the housing and then push out the unit. I hope the process did not damage anything. Guess I am the guinea pig to see whats inside of the housing.



Good to see they (AC) lost the flex cable between the back cover and the main board of the motor. That was sore spot for me, could be one of the reasons why they opted to make the new pump:


----------



## Section31

Abaidor said:


> Hmmm....that is not that nice then..Why get this pump if you have to remove the most important part of it...


You have to remove it before it can fit inside the res/pump combo then you reinsert the next portion of the pump. Only issue i have is that gold like connector, is it suppose to connect to something or as is in picture. I will do such an setup for my friends build but for mine, I have aquacomputer new d5 pump top i will be using (hopefully higher flow rate to complement my d5/combo res).


----------



## broodro0ster

Abaidor said:


> Hmmm....that is not that nice then..Why get this pump if you have to remove the most important part of it...


You have to do this to be able to slide the locking ring over the pump for the Heatkiller res. But the part that you can take off the pump, shouldn't come apart. I don't know if he did this on purpose or that I just can apart by accident.


----------



## Abaidor

So you can plug it in after it is secured on the Heatkiller base?


----------



## Abaidor

iamjanco said:


> Good to see they (AC) lost the flex cable between the back cover and the main board of the motor. That was sore spot for me, could be one of the reasons why they opted to make the new pump:
> 
> View attachment 243388



Is that a Dual Revo on the Image? I have this on my main rig and was also wondering if the D5 Next can be used with it.


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> You have to do this to be able to slide the locking ring over the pump for the Heatkiller res. But the part that you can take off the pump, shouldn't come apart. I don't know if he did this on purpose or that I just can apart by accident.


Apparently I got one that maybe was just too tight so when I attempted to disconnect the next portion of the pump, the bottom of the housing came off too. The pump will still work just that the temperature sensor may not work (minor issue). Fortunately aquacomputer support is excellent and i will get new housing (minus impeller and next controller). So the bottom portion is removable easily, probably better if they packaged it seperately for future users. After my experience with other brands, I rather pay and go with the high end German Brands whenever possible, great warranty, design and quality control.


----------



## broodro0ster

Abaidor said:


> So you can plug it in after it is secured on the Heatkiller base?




Yep!


----------



## iamjanco

Abaidor said:


> Is that a Dual Revo on the Image? I have this on my main rig and was also wondering if the D5 Next can be used with it.


Yup, it is. I suspect you'd have to use the same approach used with the Heatkiller res though because of the lock rings that come with the Revo. Not necessarily a huge hurdle, it should be doable if done right. Either way, I'd firm all that up with both Shoggy and Jakob before making such purchase for that purpose.

Edited: just read this on AC's *page for the D5 NEXT*: 



> For installation of the locking ring, the controller unit can be removed from the pump, thereby ensuring compatibility with tops and reservoirs of many manufacturers.


Additionally, the assembly portion of the pump's User and installation manual (*pdf download*) says the following:



> *4. Assembly instructions 4. Assembly instructions*
> 
> *4.1. Detachable control unit, mounting options 4.1*.
> 
> Detachable control unit, mounting options The controller unit of the pump can be removed by pulling it off the pump motor unit in a straight line. Make sure that no power is supplied to the pump whenever the controller unit is being removed from or re-attached to the pump motor unit! The controller unit can only be attached to the pump motor unit in a given orientation. Do not use excessive force but re-check the orientation if you encounter problems re-attaching the controller unit.


----------



## Abaidor

iamjanco said:


> Yup, it is. I suspect you'd have to use the same approach used with the Heatkiller res though because of the lock rings that come with the Revo. Not necessarily a huge hurdle, it should be doable if done right.


As long as it is doable then its fine. At this point I have no real need for the Next's extra features since Q-Fan in my UEFI is doing a great job at managing fans tied to several temp sensors. 
I will keep the D5s Next on my list for future upgrades should I decide to go with the Aquaero / AquaSuite system for managing fans & LEDs.


----------



## Section31

Abaidor said:


> As long as it is doable then its fine. At this point I have no real need for the Next's extra features since Q-Fan in my UEFI is doing a great job at managing fans tied to several temp sensors.
> I will keep the D5s Next on my list for future upgrades should I decide to go with the Aquaero / AquaSuite system for managing fans & LEDs.


I started with swiftech pwm controller and q-fan/aisuite (garbage increasingly) then went to the cw-611 fan controller. Then I got blown away by the aqauero suite and when i switched to the a12x25 fans, it was worth the change. I hope heatkiller fan controller is going to top it. Might consider it in my next rig (intel 7nm, second gen 7nm GPU). I would love to build an all heatkiller cooling pc (wanted heatkiller radiators but there performance is not up to the hardwarelabs radiator).


----------



## Abaidor

Section31 said:


> I started with swiftech pwm controller and q-fan/aisuite (garbage increasingly) then went to the cw-611 fan controller. Then I got blown away by the aqauero suite and when i switched to the a12x25 fans, it was worth the change. I hope heatkiller fan controller is going to top it. Might consider it in my next rig (intel 7nm, second gen 7nm GPU). I would love to build an all heatkiller cooling pc (wanted heatkiller radiators but there performance is not up to the hardwarelabs radiator).


The Q-Fan on the Asus Rampage VI Extreme works surprisingly well and I can control 17 Fans + 2 D5 PWM pumps with proper curves tied to temp sensors. 9X ML140 Pro fans are controlled through the High Amp Header on the M/B (3 Amps) and the rest are spread on several fan headers and the Asus Fan Extension Card. The board also has 2X Water pump headers and multiple temp sensors. AI Suit is garbage and I uninstalled it soon after I installed it since it is not working and kept dropping my profiles....I don't want extra services loading on startup anyway and Q-Fan works great..My setup is tuned to very low rpms (rad fans never exceed 550rpm (external MO-RA 420) and case fans are also on 40% duty cycles...

The Aquasuite is great but I see no reason to add yet another device to my system when what I have works great, save for the initial trouble of multiple reboots before final settings were locked. I am watching the Heatkiller fan controller and might give it a try for another build first though. 


BTW - Anyone knows whatever happened to the new internal Radiators Watercool would release some months back? I need two internal 360s for another build and it would be nice to go with them...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Dotachin said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* just to let you know, Asrock released a new x399 board (Phantom Gaming 6, cheapest one there is afaik $250), and it _seems_ to use the same 8 phase vrm layout as the others. So if you're still considering a vrm block for my Taichi, you could strike 4 boards with one block...


Thanks for the heads-up, we'll check it out!




NewType88 said:


> Can I mount a heat killer pump top to the mo-ra3 adapter ? I want the option to mount a second pump under a mounted heat killer tube and pump. Which leads me to my second question. Anyone know if you can mount TWO heat killer tube - MO-RA3 Adapters ? Its been very time consuming trying to find measurements for everything.


None of your two ideas will be possible out of the box. You would have to make additional custom mounting brackets yourself. 




Abaidor said:


> @*jacob*
> 
> Is there any chance you come out with a Stainless Steel HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter? There are only white and black options and this makes them less than ideal for my Stainless Steel MO-RA....
> I am actually thinking of using one for covering the fan cables and also "guide" the top inlet tube there.....
> 
> As it stands now I might have to buy a black one and custom make a stainless steel version through a local Machining shop but this could cost a lot for what it's worth...Another way would be a custom plexi + stainless steel construction out of lazer cut pieces.....will test and see....
> 
> Nice little challenge isn't it...


Thanks for the great suggestion! We never thought of it, but it's an obvious demand, so here you go  The first batch will be available in ~2 weeks, but you can order it right now. 




Abaidor said:


> BTW - Anyone knows whatever happened to the new internal Radiators Watercool would release some months back? I need two internal 360s for another build and it would be nice to go with them...


We produced almost 30 prototypes, but weren't satisfied with any of them. So before releasing a mediocre product, we decided to scrap the whole project and start it all over again from step1. We only want to release products that we are absolutely convinced of, ourself, so we rather take some extra time than releasing half-assed solutions.


----------



## Aenra

Good approach :thumb:

I'm personally looking forward to that dual pump..pump/res? 
I'm _not_ looking forward to the inevitable trip to the CnCer, again, lol, so as to have a new.. new custom base fashioned ^^

(he must already think me a weirdo.. which O.K., i guess i am, but you know..)

* Oh, and happy new year!


----------



## Abaidor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the great suggestion! We never thought of it, but it's an obvious demand, so here you go  The first batch will be available in ~2 weeks, but you can order it right now.


Haha...you are amazing! Thanks for acting so fast...it will go to my basket for the next order that contains several items for a new build..

I am also thinking of getting a second MO-RA3 and go way overkill but I am currently thinking / designing how to mount it....when and if your designers are in the mood, ask them to design a nice stand/mounting solution (stainless steel) preferably for a Dual MO-RA3 420 setup. It could be modular so that it can be usable with 360 MO-RAs as well....




Watercool-Jakob said:


> We produced almost 30 prototypes, but weren't satisfied with any of them. So before releasing a mediocre product, we decided to scrap the whole project and start it all over again from step1. We only want to release products that we are absolutely convinced of, ourself, so we rather take some extra time than releasing half-assed solutions.


Do you think you might have something by June-July? I am building a no rush gaming PC on an Evolv-X case and the rads could wait till then....


----------



## NewType88

@Watercool-Jakob Ya I eventually came to that conclusion, thanks for confirming though. Thankfully some users with the mo-ra3 actually responded to some of my questions and I'm going with just the single pump after all. What's the typical shipping time to the USA ?

Oh and does your pwm D5 run full speed if not connected to a pwm header ? I keep getting conflicting user experiences with pwm D5 pumps of various brands.


----------



## pmc25

Any ETA on Radeon VII rads?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Abaidor said:


> Do you think you might have something by June-July? I am building a no rush gaming PC on an Evolv-X case and the rads could wait till then....


That sounds reasonable enough. Should be released by then, we hope.




NewType88 said:


> What's the typical shipping time to the USA ?


We ship with Fedex, which has a standard runtime of 4 business days. 






pmc25 said:


> Any ETA on Radeon VII rads?


No ETA yet. But we are very likely to make a block for that card, yes.


----------



## NewType88

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We ship with Fedex, which has a standard runtime of 4 business days.



Nice, when do you guys ship your orders ? Because your site says my order was received on the 6th, but nothing has shipped yet.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No ETA yet. But we are very likely to make a block for that card, yes.


I assume you've not received a sample PCB from AMD yet and will do shortly.

However, do you think it's possible / likely that they kept the same PCB design as for the Vega 64? The interposer package is the same size (shrunk GPU & double the HBM2). The wattage rating is identical. The GPU itself is virtually the same.

It looked like it was probably identical in length to me.

Shroud and cooling are obviously different though.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

NewType88 said:


> Nice, when do you guys ship your orders ? Because your site says my order was received on the 6th, but nothing has shipped yet.


We ran out of nickel plated coldplates for 2080Ti and had to wait till the latest batch came back from the plating company. It arrived yesterday, so we start assembling RTX2080Ti blocks again today and will then work through all open orders. We currently expect a delay of roughly a week. Sorry for the bad news ://




pmc25 said:


> I assume you've not received a sample PCB from AMD yet and will do shortly.
> 
> However, do you think it's possible / likely that they kept the same PCB design as for the Vega 64? The interposer package is the same size (shrunk GPU & double the HBM2). The wattage rating is identical. The GPU itself is virtually the same.
> 
> It looked like it was probably identical in length to me.
> 
> Shroud and cooling are obviously different though.


Can't comment on any of that :h34r-smi


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We ran out of nickel plated coldplates for 2080Ti and had to wait till the latest batch came back from the plating company. It arrived yesterday, so we start assembling RTX2080Ti blocks again today and will then work through all open orders. We currently expect a delay of roughly a week. Sorry for the bad news ://


 @Watercool-Jakob I assume I'm in this same boat, although my order says it is closed when I check status, and no tracking info. Order #11136 placed 2nd of January. 

Not in a huge rush, just want to make sure there's no issue with my order. Thanks!


----------



## SoMBrA

Run out of nickel... So I assume can't expect any nickel backplate anytime soon ;(

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Can't comment on any of that :h34r-smi


I will take that to mean very possibly 

It would certainly make the 'Vega 7' make a lot more sense for AMD. If they can use the same PCB design, then the obviously considerable cost of the work needed to shrink it to 7nm as a stopgap product, when NAVI is waiting not that far away, probably seems a lot more desirable.

If this transpires, I'll likely sell my Vega 64 with waterblock as is and get a new one, as I expect most will, but WB makers could rejoice ... day one WB compatibility would be fairly unprecedented on recent high end launches.


----------



## mithiral67

Can I join the heatkiller club?


----------



## NewType88

@Watercool-Jakob Spoke to soon, just got a tracking number ;p Could you confirm for me if your PWM D5 pump will run full speed if not connected to a pwm header for bleeding purposes.


----------



## mithiral67

NewType88 said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Spoke to soon, just got a tracking number ;p Could you confirm for me if your PWM D5 pump will run full speed if not connected to a pwm header for bleeding purposes.


Mine do.


----------



## Section31

iamjanco said:


> Yup, it is. I suspect you'd have to use the same approach used with the Heatkiller res though because of the lock rings that come with the Revo. Not necessarily a huge hurdle, it should be doable if done right. Either way, I'd firm all that up with both Shoggy and Jakob before making such purchase for that purpose.
> 
> Edited: just read this on AC's *page for the D5 NEXT*:
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally, the assembly portion of the pump's User and installation manual (*pdf download*) says the following:


I probably had an bad d5 next. I tried it on the second d5 next i had ordered (was for friend) and it removes without any issue. Pull it from the front (where the lcd is located). Here it is with the new aquacomputer d5 top.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

wheatpaste1999 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* I assume I'm in this same boat, although my order says it is closed when I check status, and no tracking info. Order #11136 placed 2nd of January.
> 
> Not in a huge rush, just want to make sure there's no issue with my order. Thanks!


Yes, the order is currently being processed and is in queue for shipping. I can't give you an estimated shipping date, though ://




SoMBrA said:


> Run out of nickel... So I assume can't expect any nickel backplate anytime soon ;(


No, those are two completely separate things: 

we mill all our coldplates out of solid copper. The backplates are milled from solid aluminum. Both are then sent to a plating company, who do the nickel plating on the copper coldplates and the black anodizing on the backplates for us, and then they are shipped back to us, where we assemble them with all the other parts. So when I say "we ran out of nickel plated coldplates", this only means that the latest batch of XXX parts is currently still sitting at the plating company, either waiting to be plated, or waiting to be shipped back to us. This has nothing to do with the raw nickel, as we do not even handle that ourselves.


The nickel-plated coldplates are a completely different problem: it is not possible to plate aluminum with nickel directly. Those two metals do not form a bond. You first have to add a different layer with which both elements CAN form a bond. That makes the whole process more expensive, and adds a level of risk which is out of our control: if that transferring layer is not perfectly even, the whole backplate is wasted. We ran sever prototypes with different plating companies to find the right partner who could live up to our high quality demands, but produce at a reasonable pricepoint. It's just a lot more R&D than with simply anodizing, so it takes time and consumes resources. 





mithiral67 said:


> Can I join the heatkiller club?


You're already in it, my friend 




NewType88 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Spoke to soon, just got a tracking number ;p Could you confirm for me if your PWM D5 pump will run full speed if not connected to a pwm header for bleeding purposes.


As far as we know, that is a specialty of the pwm standard in pump integrations: to our knowledge, ALL D5 pumps that are original Laing/Xylem products run at approx 60% pump speed when the pwm is unplugged.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, the order is currently being processed and is in queue for shipping. I can't give you an estimated shipping date, though ://


No worries, thanks for the update.


----------



## Kapov

I love the quality of the Heatkiller parts. Really happy with my first attempt at hardtubing.


----------



## arnolf

Kapov said:


> I love the quality of the Heatkiller parts. Really happy with my first attempt at hardtubing.



Amazing build! Congrats! I really love how clean it looks. 



Is that a Lian Li WGX? 



I am also planning my first build (for the log:https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...n-li-pc-o11-wgx-rog-2080-ti.html#post27795370).


I was going to order the heatkiller tube 200 when I found your post. 



The idea to fill the reservoir by the top and to use bottom connection for the valve is very good. I added the top cap with holes to my basket ;-)



Do you have a build log? I would be very interested in seeing more pics of your build (if you don't mind).


----------



## Kapov

arnolf said:


> Amazing build! Congrats! I really love how clean it looks.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Lian Li WGX?
> 
> 
> 
> I am also planning my first build (for the log:https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...n-li-pc-o11-wgx-rog-2080-ti.html#post27795370).
> 
> 
> I was going to order the heatkiller tube 200 when I found your post.
> 
> 
> 
> The idea to fill the reservoir by the top and to use bottom connection for the valve is very good. I added the top cap with holes to my basket ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a build log? I would be very interested in seeing more pics of your build (if you don't mind).


Yes its the exact same case that you ordered too. ROG Version of the "classic" PC-O11.
Here are some more pics from different angles, and the ugly ones with light haha. hope it helps you, finding a good loop layout


----------



## shiokarai

Any plans to make separate (or as an option) plexi/acrylic blocks terminal? (Top part of the block with the g ¼ fittings connections). Your blocks are so perfect yet this little thing is sticking out like a sore thumb.. beautiful acrylic/plexi block and ugly fat black acetal terminal 😉


----------



## arnolf

Kapov said:


> Yes its the exact same case that you ordered too. ROG Version of the "classic" PC-O11.
> Here are some more pics from different angles, and the ugly ones with light haha. hope it helps you, finding a good loop layout



Thanks! Appreciated


----------



## Zammin

shiokarai said:


> Any plans to make separate (or as an option) plexi/acrylic blocks terminal? (Top part of the block with the g ¼ fittings connections). Your blocks are so perfect yet this little thing is sticking out like a sore thumb.. beautiful acrylic/plexi block and ugly fat black acetal terminal 😉


Is it acetal? I thought it was metal, maybe I'm wrong. Either way I know it's all totally subjective but I am of the opposite opinion, I reckon the sleek black inlet/outlet terminal looks great, and in my eyes is a sign of higher quality compared to regular plastic (Alphacool) or acrylic terminals. It goes really well with the blocks with black aluminium front plates. My Phanteks 1080Ti block was like this as well and I love the way it looks.

If you like full acrylic blocks Bitspower do that sort of thing, and Phanteks have some blocks coming out with acrylic terminal as well. I'm sure there are other brands that do them as well. I don't think an acrylic terminal would fit with the Heatkiller blocks aesthetic unless the entire block was acrylic with no metal plates, which doesn't really fit the design IMO.


----------



## shiokarai

Zammin said:


> shiokarai said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any plans to make separate (or as an option) plexi/acrylic blocks terminal? (Top part of the block with the g ¼ fittings connections). Your blocks are so perfect yet this little thing is sticking out like a sore thumb.. beautiful acrylic/plexi block and ugly fat black acetal terminal 😉
> 
> 
> 
> Is it acetal? I thought it was metal, maybe I'm wrong. Either way I know it's all totally subjective but I am of the opposite opinion, I reckon the sleek black inlet/outlet terminal looks great, and in my eyes is a sign of higher quality compared to regular plastic (Alphacool) or acrylic terminals. It goes really well with the blocks with black aluminium front plates. My Phanteks 1080Ti block was like this as well and I love the way it looks.
> 
> If you like full acrylic blocks Bitspower do that sort of thing, and Phanteks have some blocks coming out with acrylic terminal as well. I'm sure there are other brands that do them as well. I don't think an acrylic terminal would fit with the Heatkiller blocks aesthetic unless the entire block was acrylic with no metal plates, which doesn't really fit the design IMO.
Click to expand...

Yes, I’m aware other brands do this (even EK has a separate option to buy a clear plexi terminal), but Heatkiller blocks are simply put better so it’s a tough one for me... form or function or both? It looks better with rgb, too (I know, I know... 😉 )


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Kapov said:


> I love the quality of the Heatkiller parts. Really happy with my first attempt at hardtubing.


Wow, that build looks super slick! I really love the white LED fans behind the red fluid reservoir, it's a great effect! Congratulations!





shiokarai said:


> Any plans to make separate (or as an option) plexi/acrylic blocks terminal? (Top part of the block with the g ¼ fittings connections). Your blocks are so perfect yet this little thing is sticking out like a sore thumb.. beautiful acrylic/plexi block and ugly fat black acetal terminal 😉


We are not a big fan of acrylic terminals. We are aware of the demand, though, and are looking into it.


----------



## Kapov

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Wow, that build looks super slick! I really love the white LED fans behind the red fluid reservoir, it's a great effect! Congratulations!



Thanks, i really appreciate your feedback on reddit to help optimise my cpu/gpu temps. Could bring it down a few degrees. Greetings from Hamburg!:thumb:


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are aware of the demand, though, and are looking into it.


I'd ask you to visualise an imgur or you-name-it uploading, showing a nicely cracked waterblock with the _Watercool_ logo on it; and i'd then ask you to imagine the inevitable "damn, they used to be something, now they're like 'x' brand" comment that someone's just bound to make.
You could also imagine a similar uploading, albeit with a clogged block because hey, RGB wars, except it's the pic that stays, with your logo in it.

We call it history; and it does tend to repeat itself.
Not the first brand looking to 'expand' just a tad more, just a little bit extra. It's surely O.K., plus, they want us to.

Just my thinking needless to say.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> I'd ask you to visualise an imgur or you-name-it uploading, showing a nicely cracked waterblock with the _Watercool_ logo on it; and i'd then ask you to imagine the inevitable "damn, they used to be something, now they're like 'x' brand" comment that someone's just bound to make.


That's exactly the reason why we haven't done it yet: plexi is a very suboptimal material for this kind of appliances. That's why we only use the significantly more expensive cast plexi instead of the cheaper extruded one. But we were up to this point not yet fully convinced to use it for terminals, as well, where customers are more likely to use inadequate force while screwing things in, compared to water block tops.


----------



## shiokarai

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That's exactly the reason why we haven't done it yet: plexi is a very suboptimal material for this kind of appliances. That's why we only use the significantly more expensive cast plexi instead of the cheaper extruded one. But we were up to this point not yet fully convinced to use it for terminals, as well, where customers are more likely to use inadequate force while screwing things in, compared to water block tops.


I wondered this myself, hence the question - how is it different to the already existing acrylic HeatKiller IV CPU blocks? Doesn't seem there are any problems with those blocks cracking, right? (or are they?) All in all it's better to have solid performance and durability AND appearance, but only to the extent of not compromising the former.


----------



## Turfboy

Man this is a massive piece of metal.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That's exactly the reason why we haven't done it yet: plexi is a very suboptimal material for this kind of appliances


/hat off ^^

I understand the financial aspect better than most, so speaking strictly business, i could see the logic behind certain things. I just have the luxury to judge according to my needs as a consumer. And i do 'need' companies like yours. Like it or not, the two cannot go hand in hand. So i took the opportunity to comment on this now, in advance, as i won't be if it ever comes to be, no point at that time. Thanks for listening.
Hopefully, you won't take the route, err, damnit i can't use names, lol, certain other WC companies have taken; i'd effing hate to see that happen. 

I'm sure you know this, our (many) past disagreements notwithstanding; i've a lot of respect for Watercool, i use your products for everything except rads, lol, and if you ever made 2k plus RPM-optimised rads, i'd be buying those too.
I appreciate the quality, the support, and the openess to customer feedback. Not an easy thing today. Most times, one feels all one gets is the middle finger; even after having paid


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey folks, 

we were having a quick question and would appreciate your input. To organize it over a multitude of platforms, it would be great if you could invest less than 1 minute and answer this quick survey: 





:cheers::cheers::cheers:>>> Click me, I'm a link to a survey <<<:cheers::cheers::cheers:​


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> we were having a quick question and would appreciate your input. To organize it over a multitude of platforms, it would be great if you could invest less than 1 minute and answer this quick survey:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :cheers::cheers::cheers:>>> Click me, I'm a link to a survey <<<:cheers::cheers::cheers:​


Done!


----------



## Aenra

...

Who on earth would spend around a K if not more on custom watercooling .. and use a thermal pad, lol?
This survey worries me ^^

What was the rationale behind this, honestly.


----------



## broodro0ster

Aenra said:


> ...
> 
> Who on earth would spend around a K if not more on custom watercooling .. and use a thermal pad, lol?
> This survey worries me ^^
> 
> What was the rationale behind this, honestly.


It's about thermal pads for MEMORY, not for the GPU die  Thermal pads is how 95% of the manufactures are doing it right now.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Aenra said:


> ...
> 
> Who on earth would spend around a K if not more on custom watercooling .. and use a thermal pad, lol?
> This survey worries me ^^
> 
> What was the rationale behind this, honestly.


They are talking about on the Memory and VRM not the GPU die. Fujipoly makes some outstanding thermal pads that are more than sufficient for VRM and RAM without the mess or concerns about being conductive. They are asking because it may effect the tolerance they cut a block with. In my "opinion" for 99% of people it's not worth the added mess/risk of using paste for the very nominal benefits over high quality pads.


----------



## GAN77

* Watercool-Jakob*

What is the thermal conductivity of memory pads?


----------



## pontiacmn11

I have and will always use thermal pads with a light coating of thermal paste on both sides. Been doing that for years with good luck,


----------



## ChiTownButcher

GAN77 said:


> * Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> What is the thermal conductivity of memory pads?


Depends on the pad but...

Fujipoly Extreme is 11 W/mK
Fujipoly Ultra Extreme is 17 W/mK

For comparison some thermal paste's are only 5 to 8 W/mK. (Coolermaster is JUST about to release an improved thermal paste that is 11 W/mK and Thermal Grizzly is 12.5 W/mK. Liquid Metal is about 73 W/mK and you only gain a few degrees compaired to paste.

Again.... For 99% of users good pads are more than sufficient and it's not worth the mess or risk for what little gain you will get even from high end paste. And basic paste may be a wash or downgrade compared to high end pads.

What I wish is just cut the block so it's all .5mm pads and I dont need 2 thicknesses.

What makes paste better than pads on things like GPU core or CPU is it's much thinner.


----------



## Zammin

GAN77 said:


> * Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> What is the thermal conductivity of memory pads?


Pretty sure they are 3W/mK


----------



## GAN77

ChiTownButcher said:


> Depends on the pad but...
> 
> Fujipoly Extreme is 11 W/mK
> Fujipoly Ultra Extreme is 17 W/mK



The higher the thermal conductivity, the higher the hardness of the thermal pad. This will give the problem of assembling a water block.


----------



## Aenra

ChiTownButcher said:


> They are talking about on the Memory and VRM not the GPU die


I saw pads, saw GPU, went /sigh, stopped paying attention, ergo missed "memory", my bad 

Feel free to throw stones at me, lol


----------



## ChiTownButcher

GAN77 said:


> ChiTownButcher said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the pad but...
> 
> Fujipoly Extreme is 11 W/mK
> Fujipoly Ultra Extreme is 17 W/mK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The higher the thermal conductivity, the higher the hardness of the thermal pad. This will give the problem of assembling a water block.
Click to expand...

While you are correct they do get more firm as conductivity goes up "I CHALLANGE" Show me where people have had issues mounting the GPU water block SPECIFICALLY because of the use of Fujipoly Extreme pads. I have used them for years on all of my builds and friends builds without issue. 

I have never used Ultra Extreme just because it's not worth the added cost but do know many people on here and other forums have used them and never did I see someone claim they could not mount their waterblock because the pad was too hard unless the pad was old and "dried out"


----------



## cmpxchg8b

You need to use correct thickness of thermal pads. Then they fill the gap exactly, with no slack, and no squeezing. Then it does not matter how hard the thermal pads are. No problems mounting the waterblock, either.

What's true though is that FujiPoly pads with higher thermal conductivity are more brittle. So when you remove the waterblock, they will disintegrate. Because of this, you need a new set of thermal pads every time you re-mount the waterblock. Grey FujiPoly pads are very prone to this. The reddish ones with lower thermal conductivity are easier to reuse.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

cmpxchg8b said:


> You need to use correct thickness of thermal pads. Then they fill the gap exactly, with no slack, and no squeezing. Then it does not matter how hard the thermal pads are. No problems mounting the waterblock, either.
> 
> What's true though is that FujiPoly pads with higher thermal conductivity are more brittle. So when you remove the waterblock, they will disintegrate. Because of this, you need a new set of thermal pads every time you re-mount the waterblock. Grey FujiPoly pads are very prone to this. The reddish ones with lower thermal conductivity are easier to reuse.


Correct on all accounts.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> ...
> 
> Who on earth would spend around a K if not more on custom watercooling .. and use a thermal pad, lol?
> This survey worries me ^^
> 
> What was the rationale behind this, honestly.


You and everybody else on this forum are doing exactly that  The survey is about the RAM modules alone! Not VRMs, not DIE - only RAMs 




GAN77 said:


> * Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> What is the thermal conductivity of memory pads?


We currently use pads which are rated at 5W/mK. 



This survey has two simple reasons: 

a) Since Christmas, I received roughly the same amount of "what thermal conductivity do your pads have" questions as in the whole year of 2018 before that. I don't know where this sudden spike comes from, I don't understand the sudden questioning of a metric that is, ultimately, irrelevant, when you see the thermals that the memory banks are at in the end - but the topic suddenly seems to be there.
b) A competitors product was recently released, and they are using paste on the RAMs, again, so we were asked if we'd not be able to do it. 



So. We made the conscious decision some years ago to not use thermal paste on RAM. While it is actually easier to make the block fit with paste instead of pads, we decided not to go that route. At that time, pastes with silver were top of the line, which posed the risk of electrical shorts on the PCB. If inexperienced customers would use to much paste on the RAM modules with these kinds of pastes, this could have posed the risk of frying cards. Additionally, we hated applying and cleaning paste very much, and pads are way more convenient. Seeing how the difference in thermal performance is within fractions of a percent of the distance to throttling temp, we consciously decided for pads. 

With this new arising discussion about thermal conductivity, we have the feeling that the topic needs to be re-evaluated. So there are several solutions imaginable: 
- stay with the current pads. Our blocks outperform all the competition, so why even bother improving a metric that is not even relevant to clocks?
- Use better pads. We already ordered a sample set of different pads to conduct experiments with. The downside is that more expensive pads would lead to more expensive overall block prices.
- Use thinner pads. GPU manufacturing tolerances are significantly better than 10 years ago. maybe, we can reduce the pads thicknesses, to see if that improves thermals. It makes the pads more fragile, though, so they are more prone to tearing. While that would inevitably boost our replacement pad kit sales, this is not the way we want to do business.
- Use paste on the memory instead. This comes with the overall messiness of thermal paste, both in applying and removing, and making the whole process less first-time-builder-friendly. While we appreciate our hardcore fans since decades, we also want to help new people to get into our shared hobby, and try to encourage them by making installation processes more user-friendly.


So. there you have it, that's the general rationale behind this all  If you want to share, I'd love to hear all of your input!


My personal 2 cents are: memory modules are rated for a TJmax of 95°C. With our current blocks and our current pads, the memory modules sit at ~15 - 19K over water temp. Most people will have a water temp somewhere around 25-35°C, so memorys will be somewhere between 40-55°C - still at around HALF of its TJmax. I don't see any reason at all to burn extra money to get better rated pads that will maybe get the memory temp down to ~12-16K over water - the impact on the card's performance is exactly zero in everyday scenarios. And serious extreme overclockers who are competing in benchmark tables are free to spend the extra buck to maybe reach a better position. But in _my_personal_not_my_employer's_ opinion, we shouldn't force this extra cost on everybody else, as well.


----------



## broodro0ster

Watercool-Jakob said:


> My personal 2 cents are: memory modules are rated for a TJmax of 95°C. With our current blocks and our current pads, the memory modules sit at ~15 - 19K over water temp. Most people will have a water temp somewhere around 25-35°C, so memorys will be somewhere between 40-55°C - still at around HALF of its TJmax. I don't see any reason at all to burn extra money to get better rated pads that will maybe get the memory temp down to ~12-16K over water - the impact on the card's performance is exactly zero in everyday scenarios. And serious extreme overclockers who are competing in benchmark tables are free to spend the extra buck to maybe reach a better position. But in _my_personal_not_my_employer's_ opinion, we shouldn't force this extra cost on everybody else, as well.


I agree with you. If you want better thermals on the RAM module, just buy some aftermarket pads. Personally I'm not too worried about my RAM modules. Cool GPU temps is what I care the most about.


----------



## Dotachin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> You and everybody else on this forum are doing exactly that  The survey is about the RAM modules alone! Not VRMs, not DIE - only RAMs
> 
> 
> 
> We currently use pads which are rated at 5W/mK.
> 
> 
> 
> This survey has two simple reasons:
> 
> a) Since Christmas, I received roughly the same amount of "what thermal conductivity do your pads have" questions as in the whole year of 2018 before that. I don't know where this sudden spike comes from, I don't understand the sudden questioning of a metric that is, ultimately, irrelevant, when you see the thermals that the memory banks are at in the end - but the topic suddenly seems to be there.
> b) A competitors product was recently released, and they are using paste on the RAMs, again, so we were asked if we'd not be able to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> So. We made the conscious decision some years ago to not use thermal paste on RAM. While it is actually easier to make the block fit with paste instead of pads, we decided not to go that route. At that time, pastes with silver were top of the line, which posed the risk of electrical shorts on the PCB. If inexperienced customers would use to much paste on the RAM modules with these kinds of pastes, this could have posed the risk of frying cards. Additionally, we hated applying and cleaning paste very much, and pads are way more convenient. Seeing how the difference in thermal performance is within fractions of a percent of the distance to throttling temp, we consciously decided for pads.
> 
> With this new arising discussion about thermal conductivity, we have the feeling that the topic needs to be re-evaluated. So there are several solutions imaginable:
> - stay with the current pads. Our blocks outperform all the competition, so why even bother improving a metric that is not even relevant to clocks?
> - Use better pads. We already ordered a sample set of different pads to conduct experiments with. The downside is that more expensive pads would lead to more expensive overall block prices.
> - Use thinner pads. GPU manufacturing tolerances are significantly better than 10 years ago. maybe, we can reduce the pads thicknesses, to see if that improves thermals. It makes the pads more fragile, though, so they are more prone to tearing. While that would inevitably boost our replacement pad kit sales, this is not the way we want to do business.
> - Use paste on the memory instead. This comes with the overall messiness of thermal paste, both in applying and removing, and making the whole process less first-time-builder-friendly. While we appreciate our hardcore fans since decades, we also want to help new people to get into our shared hobby, and try to encourage them by making installation processes more user-friendly.
> 
> 
> So. there you have it, that's the general rationale behind this all  If you want to share, I'd love to hear all of your input!
> 
> 
> My personal 2 cents are: memory modules are rated for a TJmax of 95°C. With our current blocks and our current pads, the memory modules sit at ~15 - 19K over water temp. Most people will have a water temp somewhere around 25-35°C, so memorys will be somewhere between 40-55°C - still at around HALF of its TJmax. I don't see any reason at all to burn extra money to get better rated pads that will maybe get the memory temp down to ~12-16K over water - the impact on the card's performance is exactly zero in everyday scenarios. And serious extreme overclockers who are competing in benchmark tables are free to spend the extra buck to maybe reach a better position. But in _my_personal_not_my_employer's_ opinion, we shouldn't force this extra cost on everybody else, as well.


May be relevant:


----------



## GAN77

Thank you for the detailed answer!


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> You and everybody else on this forum are doing exactly that


I have my blonde moments.. more and more often as time goes by, lol

As to the topic, for me it's more a matter of ease/practicality than of temps; as you said, variances are minimal and of no import.
Putting a block together and taking it apart however, that can be a thing; hold it just so, flip just so, align it just so, screw it in in just such an order, oops, let's go again. Did it sit? No? Who knows? Let's put it all together and if not, why, take it all apart again! After draining, and disassembling... Would have been easier to do so with paste than with pads (just me of course), would have also been a more.. worry-free procedure as i wouldn't have to worry about over-pressured pads, re-re-re-applied pads (and whether there's a limit there?) and so on. Paste is paste, much easier to work with and if some spills, no one cares.

Your point is valid, regarding short-circuiting, but i don't know if it's.. reasonable, even for back then; i mean if one goes into all this trouble, should one also not have _some_ understanding of the risks involved/steps undertaken? You don't go straight into this now do you. In theory, you have some previous understanding of the DOs and DON'Ts plus the awareness that you're entering gray waters; warranty issues, risks entailed, etc. etc. All rhetorical of course, but..


----------



## Turfboy

I have no problems seeing pads and welcome the cost savings. If I am overclocking the card to the point the pads are not working then I use paste. I do not expect to see paste from the manufacturer.


----------



## broodro0ster

@jacob: I've placed my first order via the official watercool website for a Heatkiller D5 200 reservoir + accessoires to mount it on my radiator.
Everything was in stock and the website says that it should be delivered in 4-5 days, but I haven't received a tracking code yet. Is this normal?

I bought it via the official store because my local suppliers have it all on backorder.


----------



## Zammin

broodro0ster said:


> @jacob: I've placed my first order via the official watercool website for a Heatkiller D5 200 reservoir + accessoires to mount it on my radiator.
> Everything was in stock and the website says that it should be delivered in 4-5 days, but I haven't received a tracking code yet. Is this normal?
> 
> I bought it via the official store because my local suppliers have it all on backorder.


I ran into this when I placed my first order as well, although mine was a GPU block. It's not mentioned on the product pages as far as I know and it isn't made 100% clear during checkout, but Jakob explained to me that the "in stock" indicator on their website actually means it's ready to be made/manufactured, and there is a small-ish wait (depending on the demand) for the product to be made first and then shipped. Not trying to speak on their behalf of course, I'm sure Jakob will be able to let you know what's going on in this case but I thought it was worth mentioning since that was what delayed the shipping of my first order so it could be the case here as well.


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> I ran into this when I placed my first order as well, although mine was a GPU block. It's not mentioned on the product pages as far as I know and it isn't made 100% clear during checkout, but Jakob explained to me that "in stock" actually means it's ready to be made/manufactured, and there is a small-ish wait (depending on the demand) for the product to be made first and then shipped. Not trying to speak on their behalf of course, I'm sure Jakob will be able to let you know what's going on in this case but I thought it was worth mentioning since that was what delayed the shipping of my first order so it could be the case here as well.


I read your post about a month ago. I can understand since the demand for RTX is probably very high and there a multiple versions of it.
But the Heatkiller reservoir has been on the market for 2? years so I would think that have enough stock to keep up with demand.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

broodro0ster said:


> @*jacob* : I've placed my first order via the official watercool website for a Heatkiller D5 200 reservoir + accessoires to mount it on my radiator.
> Everything was in stock and the website says that it should be delivered in 4-5 days, but I haven't received a tracking code yet. Is this normal?
> 
> I bought it via the official store because my local suppliers have it all on backorder.


We are currently simply flooded by orders, so everything takes longer than normal. Please sne me a mail to [email protected] with your order number and I'll check the estimated shipping date.


----------



## broodro0ster

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are currently simply flooded by orders, so everything takes longer than normal. Please sne me a mail to [email protected] with your order number and I'll check the estimated shipping date.


Thank you for the quick answer! I guess that means that business is going good for Watercool 
I'll send you an email asap.


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*,

Good day!

HEATKILLER® GPU waterblock RTX2080TI compatibility list indicates it is not compatible for ZOTAC RTX2080Ti AMP ZT-
T20810D-10P.
PCB Zotac reference design, but has additional soldered connectors. I marked the places. Can you give advice?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> *Watercool-Jakob*,
> 
> Good day!
> 
> HEATKILLER® GPU waterblock RTX2080TI compatibility list indicates it is not compatible for ZOTAC RTX2080Ti AMP ZT-
> T20810D-10P.
> PCB Zotac reference design, but has additional soldered connectors. I marked the places. Can you give advice?


Thanks for bringing this to my attention! This is, indeed, the reference PCB layout, so our block is fully compatible. The fan headers are part of the reference layout (they are not populated in the FE cards, but in many other cards, as well) and are accounted for in our block. I'll update our list immediately.


----------



## knightriot

GAN77 said:


> *Watercool-Jakob*,
> 
> Good day!
> 
> HEATKILLER® GPU waterblock RTX2080TI compatibility list indicates it is not compatible for ZOTAC RTX2080Ti AMP ZT-
> T20810D-10P.
> PCB Zotac reference design, but has additional soldered connectors. I marked the places. Can you give advice?


i can confirm it still work good,i using this zotac amp 2080ti + hkIV copper 
and their's vga have them too:
https://www.tomshw.de/2018/12/10/wa...om-loop-wasserkuehlung-bei-380-watt-igorslab/



Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for bringing this to my attention! This is, indeed, the reference PCB layout, so our block is fully compatible. The fan headers are part of the reference layout (they are not populated in the FE cards, but in many other cards, as well) and are accounted for in our block. I'll update our list immediately.


lol next time check carefully bro, it working perfect...


----------



## Section31

I finally got my friends build up. Love heatkiller products. It looks great with the d5 next.

Couple of my friends have said will go heatkiller blocks for future builds. Most of my friends recent builds are using your reservoir at minimum.


----------



## Wally West

knightriot said:


> lol next time check carefully bro, it working perfect...


Mistake is happening to the best of us haha 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## J7SC

1x* Heatkiller IV for Threadripper* + 2x MPC755 pumps + 2x XSPC 360 rads + 6x 120mm Gentle Typhoons = 1x happy 2950X OC :wheee::Snorkle::wheee:


----------



## paskowitz

Build log is up...


----------



## madbrayniak

The new Swiftech Maelstrom.V2 was shown today and it looks allot like the heatkiller tube res. I have a DDC right now so I think I'm going to get the heatkiller tube DDC res and put my pump in it. Goal is to have two of them soon so I can run them half speed in series for quiet operation but with better pressure for my 3 rad setup.


----------



## Section31

madbrayniak said:


> The new Swiftech Maelstrom.V2 was shown today and it looks allot like the heatkiller tube res. I have a DDC right now so I think I'm going to get the heatkiller tube DDC res and put my pump in it. Goal is to have two of them soon so I can run them half speed in series for quiet operation but with better pressure for my 3 rad setup.


It does look similar. The quality of heatkiller is better. Prior to this build, I was using Swiftech mcp50x. Great pumps and customer service (they replace stuff with minimum hassle) just limited mounting options because there pump top is incompatible with laing ddc tops.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

madbrayniak said:


> The new Swiftech Maelstrom.V2 was shown today and it looks allot like the heatkiller tube res.


Well, we are used to the whole industry following our ideas. Nevertheless, thanks for bringing it to our attention. The marketing jimbo about the "unique design" gave me a nice laugh, my day needed that


----------



## broodro0ster

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, we are used to the whole industry following our ideas. Nevertheless, thanks for bringing it to our attention. The marketing jimbo about the "unique design" gave me a nice laugh, my day needed that


I received my Heatkiller 200 D5 res yesterday and I can tell you that the quality is very nice! 
The next time I get a new GPU, I'm going to buy a founders edition so I can buy a watercool block for it


----------



## madbrayniak

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, we are used to the whole industry following our ideas. Nevertheless, thanks for bringing it to our attention. The marketing jimbo about the "unique design" gave me a nice laugh, my day needed that


That has to be frustrating from a manufacturers perspective. I sale my service so I know it can't be replicated...not sure if anyone would want to replicate it though....


----------



## SoMBrA

I've finally installed the 2080ti block that I ordered about 2 months ago! 
I was worried that the card would die so I tried to stress the GPU before redoing the loop and mount the GPU and CPU block.
Block performs really well, as we all already know, but man the looks...just wow really well done!
Also like the little rgb that really gives that nice little final touch 

Let me take some pictures and I will post then over here aswell 

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Wally West

Teaser of my build. Watercool is looking ridiculously beautiful in everything









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## TheArkratos

Wally West said:


> Teaser of my build. Watercool is looking ridiculously beautiful in everything
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Heads up you are going into your threadripper block backwards, and that WILL cause you to have much higher temps.


----------



## Wally West

TheArkratos said:


> Heads up you are going into your threadripper block backwards, and that WILL cause you to have much higher temps.


Yup, I know. It not going above 55c, so I'm fine with it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Jyve

TheArkratos said:


> Wally West said:
> 
> 
> 
> Teaser of my build. Watercool is looking ridiculously beautiful in everything
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Heads up you are going into your threadripper block backwards, and that WILL cause you to have much higher temps.
Click to expand...

Not much higher no. It's pretty common knowledge that most if not all blocks CAN be routed opposite the recommended way. The loss is not very significant. It's usually better to base it on your loop than on temps. Anything that helps clean it up and makes it look pretty.


----------



## MURDoctrine

So I'm tired of my EK blocks and have had good luck with the heatkiller series in the past. Looking to switch from my EK Evo Supremacy CPU and EK 1080ti block. However, I noticed that there seem to be 2 versions of the Heatkiller Acryl waterblock for the 1080ti. Is there any difference between the one for the Titan X/1080ti and just 1080Ti version other than the longer front cover?


----------



## madbrayniak

How much height does the fan stand mount add?

I have an EK XE360 rad with Vardar fans in push on the bottom of my Caselabs M8 and added an EK PE360 with Vardar fans on top.

I'm wanting to add the heatkiller tube ddc150 x2 as I think the 200 will be too tall but want to make sure the 150 would fit with the stand.


----------



## isabirov

Watercool-Jakob said:


> madbrayniak said:
> 
> 
> 
> The new Swiftech Maelstrom.V2 was shown today and it looks allot like the heatkiller tube res.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, we are used to the whole industry following our ideas. Nevertheless, thanks for bringing it to our attention. The marketing jimbo about the "unique design" gave me a nice laugh, my day needed that /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Wish you had HK tube in 50 too ))


----------



## NewType88

If I bought a heatkiller 4 block for my 6700k and decide to buy a 3700x in the future, would it be just a matter of swapping out the mounting hardware ? I don't know if that's something you can know now. I'm assuming the IHS will still be within the dimensions for the block to work, but I'm just speculating.


----------



## madbrayniak

NewType88 said:


> If I bought a heatkiller 4 block for my 6700k and decide to buy a 3700x in the future, would it be just a matter of swapping out the mounting hardware ? I don't know if that's something you can know now. I'm assuming the IHS will still be within the dimensions for the block to work, but I'm just speculating.


Heatkiller 4 CPU blocks aren't universal. EK Supremacy Evo works for both Intel and AMD but not sure if you can get them anymore. Alphacool Eisblock XPX works for both Intel and AMD.

I'm hoping the 3700X ends up being killer too, currently on a 2700X myself.


----------



## ryan92084

NewType88 said:


> If I bought a heatkiller 4 block for my 6700k and decide to buy a 3700x in the future, would it be just a matter of swapping out the mounting hardware ? I don't know if that's something you can know now. I'm assuming the IHS will still be within the dimensions for the block to work, but I'm just speculating.





madbrayniak said:


> Heatkiller 4 CPU blocks aren't universal. EK Supremacy Evo works for both Intel and AMD but not sure if you can get them anymore. Alphacool Eisblock XPX works for both Intel and AMD.
> 
> I'm hoping the 3700X ends up being killer too, currently on a 2700X myself.


They sell a conversion kit. http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14072


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

MURDoctrine said:


> So I'm tired of my EK blocks and have had good luck with the heatkiller series in the past. Looking to switch from my EK Evo Supremacy CPU and EK 1080ti block. However, I noticed that there seem to be 2 versions of the Heatkiller Acryl waterblock for the 1080ti. Is there any difference between the one for the Titan X/1080ti and just 1080Ti version other than the longer front cover?


It's exactly the same coldplate, just the top cover is different: the 1080Ti only version covers the whole PCB, the Titan X version has the cutout for the DVI port, of course. 







madbrayniak said:


> How much height does the fan stand mount add?
> 
> I have an EK XE360 rad with Vardar fans in push on the bottom of my Caselabs M8 and added an EK PE360 with Vardar fans on top.
> 
> I'm wanting to add the heatkiller tube ddc150 x2 as I think the 200 will be too tall but want to make sure the 150 would fit with the stand.


Which fan stand exactly are you talking about? If you are talking about the basic stands, you can find drawings with measurements in the tube res articles. If you need the height for the stand on horizontal rads, I'll get back to you later on.




NewType88 said:


> If I bought a heatkiller 4 block for my 6700k and decide to buy a 3700x in the future, would it be just a matter of swapping out the mounting hardware ? I don't know if that's something you can know now. I'm assuming the IHS will still be within the dimensions for the block to work, but I'm just speculating.


Yes, that is correct. We sell the mounting conversion kits separately.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob, 

Good day!

HEATKILLER Tube - MultiPort Top does it have holes, is there a thread? I found the following photo:


----------



## Bartouille

Hi Watercool-Jakob,

Is it possible to purchase some backplate screws and some of the screws that hold the acrylic to the copper part of the block for this wb http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15046 ?

Thanks.


----------



## Meech

Hi Jakob,


I'm sure you're very busy but is it possible you could send me an update on my order (#11586)?
I've sent a couple of emails to [email protected] but haven't heard anything yet.
Thanks in advance!


Demetrius


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Hi Jakob.

Are you guys planning on making a block for the Radeon VII?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> Good day!
> 
> HEATKILLER Tube - MultiPort Top does it have holes, is there a thread? I found the following photo:



Yes, that is correct. Those are thread M4. If you have a standalone tube without pump, you could mount the res on these positions (there are two more in the bottom piece, as well). We don't recommend doing so when you have an integrated pump version, as that would transfer vibrations to the case.





Bartouille said:


> Hi Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> Is it possible to purchase some backplate screws and some of the screws that hold the acrylic to the copper part of the block for this wb http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/15046 ?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes. Please send me a mail to [email protected] with your shipping address and phone number and the exact screws that you'll need, and I'll make you a custom quote.


----------



## Hale59

...


----------



## pmc25

@ Jakob

Any news yet on Radeon VII blocks?

Not that they'll be of any great utility until Wattman / other utilities are functioning properly ...


----------



## SoMBrA

@Watercool-Jakob my Heatkiller build is finished!










Heatkiller Partlist:
- CPU Block: TR4 Block - Nickel
- GPU Block: 2080 Ti Nickel RGB (synched with Reservoir strips)
- VRM: Asus X399 Block
- Reservoir: 150 D5 with Silver struds and RGB strips (synched with GPU)

Next time I should use your rads


----------



## dasd12eqdsa

@Watercool-Jakob

I currently have a 1080ti with a Heatkiller GPU block. I also have a hardline watercooling build, so I can't adjust my tube positions. If I were to upgrade to a 2080ti and buy a Heatkiller GPU block for it, are the inlets at the same spatial position as the 1080ti blocks? I tried to figure it out from the pictures on your site but I can't. Basically, I want to know if I could take my Heatkiller 1080ti block out of my loop and replace it with a Heatkiller 2080ti block without having to rebend/recut any tubes.


----------



## shiokarai

SoMBrA said:


> @Watercool-Jakob my Heatkiller build is finished!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heatkiller Partlist:
> - CPU Block: TR4 Block - Nickel
> - GPU Block: 2080 Ti Nickel RGB (synched with Reservoir strips)
> - VRM: Asus X399 Block
> - Reservoir: 150 D5 with Silver struds and RGB strips (synched with GPU)
> 
> Next time I should use your rads


Looks gorgeous! What is this display with flow rate etc.? I Saw some Barrowsomething displays but they are aluminium inside so it's a no go for me, is this that one? Also - glass tube or you just don't like bending tubes


----------



## SoMBrA

shiokarai said:


> Looks gorgeous! What is this display with flow rate etc.? I Saw some Barrowsomething displays but they are aluminium inside so it's a no go for me, is this that one? Also - glass tube or you just don't like bending tubes


Thank you for the nice words! 
You are right, that is the Barrow display (I have 2 of them, one for the flow and another one for inline water temperature, next to the reservoir), and you don't have to worry since the internals have no aluminium parts, the aluminium alloy is just used for the external frame!
For the tubes just acrylic, I did bend tubes in the past but I didn't mind using more fittings, as I was going for this kind of industrial finish. If you want to know more I have a worklog just to don't flood the Heatkiller Club post


----------



## chibi

shiokarai said:


> Looks gorgeous! What is this display with flow rate etc.? I Saw some Barrowsomething displays but they are aluminium inside so it's a no go for me, is this that one? Also - glass tube or you just don't like bending tubes



SoMBrA is correct, the Barrowch inline temp + flow sensor internals are acetal - only the faceplate / frame is aluminum. Water does not come in contact with the frame assembly so there is no worry for galvanic corrosion.


----------



## shiokarai

chibi said:


> SoMBrA is correct, the Barrowch inline temp + flow sensor internals are acetal - only the faceplate / frame is aluminum. Water does not come in contact with the frame assembly so there is no worry for galvanic corrosion.


That's what I wanted to know, thanks guys!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

SoMBrA said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* my Heatkiller build is finished
> 
> Heatkiller Partlist:
> - CPU Block: TR4 Block - Nickel
> - GPU Block: 2080 Ti Nickel RGB (synched with Reservoir strips)
> - VRM: Asus X399 Block
> - Reservoir: 150 D5 with Silver struds and RGB strips (synched with GPU)
> 
> Next time I should use your rads


Oh wow, this came out beautifully, thanks for sharing the pic! I'll check out your worklog, as well!




pmc25 said:


> @ Jakob
> 
> Any news yet on Radeon VII blocks?
> 
> Not that they'll be of any great utility until Wattman / other utilities are functioning properly ...


We are interested in that card, but have not yet finally decided if we want to do a block for it. We currently have two other projects in pipeline that need to be finished first, so I'll update you as the schedule goes.




dasd12eqdsa said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I currently have a 1080ti with a Heatkiller GPU block. I also have a hardline watercooling build, so I can't adjust my tube positions. If I were to upgrade to a 2080ti and buy a Heatkiller GPU block for it, are the inlets at the same spatial position as the 1080ti blocks? I tried to figure it out from the pictures on your site but I can't. Basically, I want to know if I could take my Heatkiller 1080ti block out of my loop and replace it with a Heatkiller 2080ti block without having to rebend/recut any tubes.



No, the position of the terminal had to be changed. The position of the chip on the PCB is differnet, which dictates the optimal flow paths, and the NVlink pins are wider than the SLI pins were, so the terminal had to be moved a bit.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob,

Any news about 
HEATKILLER® IV for ASUS RTX 2080 Ti?

Thank!


----------



## Silvina

Hi All,
I am planning on getting the MO-RA3 external radiator, as well as the pump/rest to be mounted on the radiator itself.

My shopping list is currently as follows
https://imgur.com/a/XfjMxxS

Planning to run 8x200mm fans in push pull
As this is the first time i am doing an external radiator setup, i am wondering if 
- is there any parts missing. 
- How do i power the electronics for the fans, pumps, controller etc
- How do you guys deal with dust on the radiators, do you guys use Demcifilter filters for this?


----------



## Dotachin

Is there an adapter to mount a d5-top to a 120/140mm fan place? ty


----------



## J7SC

*@Watercool-Jakob *


...while the 'Orca with Rucksack' build is not entirely finished yet (about 70% complete; includes 5x 360 rads on 2 loops, select copper tubing etc), I have been putting it to the test and the Heatkiller IV Threadripper performs incredibly well w/ my 2950X and 2x 2080 TIs...so far, even with overclocking on all cores/threads, temps have never even been in the 60 c or higher range.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> Any news about
> HEATKILLER® IV for ASUS RTX 2080 Ti?
> 
> Thank!


The blocks will be available in the next 14 days.




Silvina said:


> Hi All,
> I am planning on getting the MO-RA3 external radiator, as well as the pump/rest to be mounted on the radiator itself.
> 
> My shopping list is currently as follows
> https://imgur.com/a/XfjMxxS
> 
> Planning to run 8x200mm fans in push pull
> As this is the first time i am doing an external radiator setup, i am wondering if
> - is there any parts missing.
> - How do i power the electronics for the fans, pumps, controller etc
> - How do you guys deal with dust on the radiators, do you guys use Demcifilter filters for this?


The shopping list looks fine. As for cabling: I just run an extension from the PC in which I have all cables sleeved together.




Dotachin said:


> Is there an adapter to mount a d5-top to a 120/140mm fan place? ty


We do have 120 and 140mm adapter brackets. Those were designed for Eheim and DDC pumps, that was before the D5 era. I just checked, if you use additional washers, you could mount the D5 top onto these brackets in one position, though!


----------



## Dotachin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We do have 120 and 140mm adapter brackets. Those were designed for Eheim and DDC pumps, that was before the D5 era. I just checked, if you use additional washers, you could mount the D5 top onto these brackets in one position, though!


Thanks. Sadly it's not in ppcs. I guess I'll just get a metal sheet and drill some holes.


----------



## LeadbyFaith21

Hopefully someone here will be able to answer this, I'm looking at getting a couple of Heatkiller items off of Aquatuning and they're showing as "Delivery Date Exceeded." Is that Aquatuning's way of saying they're out of stock permanently?

If so, does anyone know where I could buy the Heatkiller IV ACRYL Ni-Bl for Vega in the USA? Looks like everything else I'm wanting is on PPCS, but the Vega block is out of stock there.


----------



## Zammin

LeadbyFaith21 said:


> Hopefully someone here will be able to answer this, I'm looking at getting a couple of Heatkiller items off of Aquatuning and they're showing as "Delivery Date Exceeded." Is that Aquatuning's way of saying they're out of stock permanently?


I had some confusion about this with my first Aquatuning order as well, but to answer your question, no it doesn't mean they are out of stock permanently. The way they handle stock reporting is it will say "Delivery in X days/weeks" if they have an ETA for inbound stock, if that ETA is missed (which happens all the time with them, often more than once for the same delivery) it will say "Delivery date exceeded" until they are given a new ETA. My first Aquatuning order missed it's ETA about 4 times before they actually got stock and sent it lol.

You can still place an order for a product when it says "Delivery date exceeded" but you won't know when you will receive it as they will keep your order on hold until stock arrives.


----------



## isabirov

Dotachin said:


> Thanks. Sadly it's not in ppcs. I guess I'll just get a metal sheet and drill some holes.


There is perfect universal holder from bitspower. https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Universal-Water-Mount-Radiator/dp/B074JM6BWC
However, it's available only in 120 and seems like it's discontinued. What I like in it - you can mount pump or reservoir at required height and it's perfectly adjustable.

@Watercool-Jakob, maybe you should consider to make similar in 120 and 140


----------



## LeadbyFaith21

Zammin said:


> I had some confusion about this with my first Aquatuning order as well, but to answer your question, no it doesn't mean they are out of stock permanently. The way they handle stock reporting is it will say "Delivery in X days/weeks" if they have an ETA for inbound stock, if that ETA is missed (which happens all the time with them, often more than once for the same delivery) it will say "Delivery date exceeded" until they are given a new ETA. My first Aquatuning order missed it's ETA about 4 times before they actually got stock and sent it lol.
> 
> You can still place an order for a product when it says "Delivery date exceeded" but you won't know when you will receive it as they will keep your order on hold until stock arrives.


Perfect, thank you!


----------



## arnolf

Hello,


In term of mounting options for a heatkiller Tube 200 D5, I hesitate between the fan mounting kit (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30263) and the basic mounting kit with fan adapter.


I know both include a decoupling kit but I was wondering if there was an important difference between those options in term of vibrations.


Basic mounting kit would obviously look cleaner. Just a bit afraid it would be noisier.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

isabirov said:


> There is perfect universal holder from bitspower. https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Universal-Water-Mount-Radiator/dp/B074JM6BWC
> However, it's available only in 120 and seems like it's discontinued. What I like in it - you can mount pump or reservoir at required height and it's perfectly adjustable.
> 
> @*Watercool-Jakob* , maybe you should consider to make similar in 120 and 140


Didn't know this product. Thanks for bringing this to my attention, we'll have a look into it. On first sight, it seems way to fragile, in my opinion, but it has potential to make it into something good. 








arnolf said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> In term of mounting options for a heatkiller Tube 200 D5, I hesitate between the fan mounting kit (http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30263) and the basic mounting kit with fan adapter.
> 
> 
> I know both include a decoupling kit but I was wondering if there was an important difference between those options in term of vibrations.
> 
> 
> Basic mounting kit would obviously look cleaner. Just a bit afraid it would be noisier.



Those two options are not interchangeable. The basic mounting kit with fan adapters allows you to mount the res on a VERTICAL radiator. The tube stand on 120mm fan places is for installation on a HORIZONTAL radiator. If your case setup offers both options, I would always recommend the vertical installation. Looks cleaner, simpler to fill, easier to use.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The tube stand on 120mm fan places


Dimensions for which (i'd remind) are still not available in your website; now O.K., it sits on a 120, so screw spacing is 105mm, all good; but just to name an example, how much height does it add to a res?
Would help if you guys added that.


----------



## arnolf

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Didn't know this product. Thanks for bringing this to my attention, we'll have a look into it. On first sight, it seems way to fragile, in my opinion, but it has potential to make it into something good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those two options are not interchangeable. The basic mounting kit with fan adapters allows you to mount the res on a VERTICAL radiator. The tube stand on 120mm fan places is for installation on a HORIZONTAL radiator. If your case setup offers both options, I would always recommend the vertical installation. Looks cleaner, simpler to fill, easier to use.


Thanks Jakob,

In my case I have 120mm fan holes for rad mounting on the bottom so that both option would work for vertical mount.

I already bought the fan adapter mount but now regrets a bit because as you mentionned the basic mounting kit looks a lot cleaner.

I will probably go this way.

Just one question: What screws are included with the fan adapter for the basic mounting kit? Are they M4 long enough to mount on a rad through fans?


----------



## Zammin

Just completed my O11-DX rebuild with 9900k and 2080Ti, using Heatkiller GPU block and D5 Res paired with an Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump. I don't know what it is about this combo but the pump is dead quiet at all speeds with this setup, where as my previous EK D5 pump/res combo would make a whirring/whining/humming sound that was very audible above 50% until you hit 100% where it was quiet again.


----------



## arnolf

Nice to hear. Thanks for sharing. 

Your build look awesome. Congrats!


----------



## Zammin

arnolf said:


> Nice to hear. Thanks for sharing.
> 
> Your build look awesome. Congrats!


Thank you


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> Dimensions for which (i'd remind) are still not available in your website; now O.K., it sits on a 120, so screw spacing is 105mm, all good; but just to name an example, how much height does it add to a res?
> Would help if you guys added that.


Good feedback, I'll look into it, thanks!



arnolf said:


> Just one question: What screws are included with the fan adapter for the basic mounting kit? Are they M4 long enough to mount on a rad through fans?


There are M3x6 screws included. If you want to screw through a fan, you'll have to get the corresponding screws yourself. 


Zammin said:


> Just completed my O11-DX rebuild with 9900k and 2080Ti, using Heatkiller GPU block and D5 Res paired with an Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump. I don't know what it is about this combo but the pump is dead quiet at all speeds with this setup, where as my previous EK D5 pump/res combo would make a whirring/whining/humming sound that was very audible above 50% until you hit 100% where it was quiet again.


Great build! And thanks for the positive feedback!


----------



## Barefooter

Zammin said:


> Just completed my O11-DX rebuild with 9900k and 2080Ti, using Heatkiller GPU block and D5 Res paired with an Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump. I don't know what it is about this combo but the pump is dead quiet at all speeds with this setup, where as my previous EK D5 pump/res combo would make a whirring/whining/humming sound that was very audible above 50% until you hit 100% where it was quiet again.


Looks great! I like how the tubing bend to left of the video card matches the tubing above the CPU :thumb:

Curious as to what coolant you have in there?


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Great build! And thanks for the positive feedback!


Thank you! And thanks for making great products 



Barefooter said:


> Looks great! I like how the tubing bend to left of the video card matches the tubing above the CPU :thumb:
> 
> Curious as to what coolant you have in there?


Cheers man, I did my best to try and make them look similar and to allow the GPU block to be seen mostly unobstructed 

The coolant is Aquacomputer Double Protect Ultra in red. I used to have EK Cryofuel but it left some nasty hazy residue throughout my loop whenever I drained it so I ditched it to try something else. This stuff has pretty much the exact same colour but hopefully it doesn't come with any nasty side effects. Time will tell. I have some Mayhems Biocide+, Inhibitor+ and Non-Stain Red Dye on standby if anything goes wrong, that way I can switch to those in distilled water if need be later.


----------



## tictoc

LeadbyFaith21 said:


> Hopefully someone here will be able to answer this, I'm looking at getting a couple of Heatkiller items off of Aquatuning and they're showing as "Delivery Date Exceeded." Is that Aquatuning's way of saying they're out of stock permanently?
> 
> If so, does anyone know where I could buy the Heatkiller IV ACRYL Ni-Bl for Vega in the USA? Looks like everything else I'm wanting is on PPCS, but the Vega block is out of stock there.



I think the only place you are going to find Vega blocks is direct from Watercool. They do ship to the US and the price is reasonable. http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...es/Wasserkühler/GPU_Kuehler/"Radeon RX Serie"


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
can you help me please?
thinking of getting the heatkiller vega blocks in black, but is there a conflict with the block and an xspc system as they mention aluminum in the heatkiller block and wondered if its in the coating inside the block, that suposedly conflicts with copper/brass.


----------



## Zammin

MrPerforations said:


> hello,
> can you help me please?
> thinking of getting the heatkiller vega blocks in black, but is there a conflict with the block and an xspc system as they mention aluminum in the heatkiller block and wondered if its in the coating inside the block, that suposedly conflicts with copper/brass.


There's no aluminium in the block, it should just be the front cover plate over the acrylic. The blocks themselves are made of copper or nickel plated copper.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I really don't see a difference in the hk iv basic and pro besides copper base which I'd rather have over nickle 
Both are identical except one is basic and one is pro and 11.us more for nickle 
http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-basic-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html


----------



## ryan92084

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I really don't see a difference in the hk iv basic and pro besides copper base which I'd rather have over nickle
> Both are identical except one is basic and one is pro and 11.us more for nickle
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-basic-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html


Different channels in the base https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/2/


----------



## ThrashZone

ryan92084 said:


> Different channels in the base https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/2/


Hi,
Thank you I see now why it's not visually noticeable

Now why don't they make a pro with copper and plexi :/


----------



## ryan92084

ThrashZone said:


> ryan92084 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Different channels in the base https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/04/22/watercool-heatkiller-iv-cpu-water-block-review/2/
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Thank you I see now why it's not visually noticeable
> 
> Now why don't they make a pro with copper and plexi :/
Click to expand...

I've heard that if you contact them directly they will swap tops and plates into combos that aren't normally available


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

MrPerforations said:


> hello,
> can you help me please?
> thinking of getting the heatkiller vega blocks in black, but is there a conflict with the block and an xspc system as they mention aluminum in the heatkiller block and wondered if its in the coating inside the block, that suposedly conflicts with copper/brass.


In none of our end-customer products, aluminum will ever be in contact with the fluid. We are very proud that we were one of the first companies that followed the "copper only" route back in 2001, and we always stayed with this principle. 




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I really don't see a difference in the hk iv basic and pro besides copper base which I'd rather have over nickle
> Both are identical except one is basic and one is pro and 11.us more for nickle
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-basic-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/heatkillerr-iv-pro-intel-processor-acryl-clean.html


The BASIC coldplate has 49 channels, where the PRO baseplate has 78. 




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thank you I see now why it's not visually noticeable
> 
> Now why don't they make a pro with copper and plexi :/


We currently have 10 versions of CPU blocks, with brackets for Intel and AMD. This makes it 20 products for resellers being forced to stock if they want to cover the full range. This makes it very inconvenient for them, so we tried to narrow it down to the most popular versions. 

As Ryan said, you can contact us at [email protected] and ask for a block made for you in a custom combination, and we're happy to make a one-off for you. Please include your shipping address and phone number in that mail, so we can make a quote directly, and we'll be happy to help you!


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> so we can make a quote directly


This may not be answered and i'd understand why completely 
But since i'm here as a consumer, might i enquire for a very rough estimate? Just so that us non-affluent folks can have an idea?

Say i wanted a Heatkiller IV Pro for AM4, nickel plating for contact, full/only copper above (aka no nickel 'touches' on top or anywhere visible); what would the ballpark be?

* i want to once, just once, make a post that doesn't need editing, lol.. just once so i can tell myself, there!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Thanks yep wouldn't of thought a copper plexi would be a custom job since you do have a all copper pro.
Too many nickle items seems to me frankly.


----------



## Barefooter

Got my Heatkiller video card blocks installed.

Check out the custom chrome plated backplates 




























More pics on my build log here


.


----------



## socialite2dot0

*Stock*

@Watercool-Jakob just wondering what the stock is like on your plain Heatkiller Tube 200 reservoirs without pump connections and how long would it take to get them to me here in Texas. I'm interested in picking up a pair of 'em and don't want to buy used. I noticed they are out of stock everywhere but your shop(they show as available), yet a guy on your forum has been waiting since last month to get his... I'm a bit impatient and don't know I'd be able to do that


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> This may not be answered and i'd understand why completely
> But since i'm here as a consumer, might i enquire for a very rough estimate? Just so that us non-affluent folks can have an idea?
> 
> Say i wanted a Heatkiller IV Pro for AM4, nickel plating for contact, full/only copper above (aka no nickel 'touches' on top or anywhere visible); what would the ballpark be?
> 
> * i want to once, just once, make a post that doesn't need editing, lol.. just once so i can tell myself, there!



The rough estimate would be pretty much the same as the standard blocks, if it's just a standard variety of all the parts that are already there. So it's more like "Take the Copper price, add some bucks for the nickel plating, subtract some bucks for the plexi instead of metal top" kind of calculation. 




Barefooter said:


> Got my Heatkiller video card blocks installed.
> 
> Check out the custom chrome plated backplates
> 
> More pics on my build log here


Awesome, love you could make it work!




socialite2dot0 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* just wondering what the stock is like on your plain Heatkiller Tube 200 reservoirs without pump connections and how long would it take to get them to me here in Texas. I'm interested in picking up a pair of 'em and don't want to buy used. I noticed they are out of stock everywhere but your shop(they show as available), yet a guy on your forum has been waiting since last month to get his... I'm a bit impatient and don't know I'd be able to do that


The reservoirs are constantly in production. We are currently receiving a very large amount of orders, so we can't hold our standard turn around time of 2 days. The current standard turn around time that you'll need to be comfortable with is 7-14 days, unfortunately.


----------



## Yomny

Just got mine, thanks to this thread which i saw browsing around and figured this little guy had to be a champ.

HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) - Acryl Clean. Great fitment and it seems to be doing a great job.


----------



## Aenra

Thanks for the reply Jakob


----------



## Wally West

Full HK for the win.



Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Jokesterwild

Wally West said:


> Full HK for the win.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Great build! The top of the heatkiller tube has to be drilled and tapped correct? It doesn't come with an top port stock?


----------



## chibi

Jokesterwild said:


> Great build! The top of the heatkiller tube has to be drilled and tapped correct? It doesn't come with an top port stock?



No, buy the multiport top accessory and you have two top ports.


----------



## Abaidor

Jokesterwild said:


> Great build! The top of the heatkiller tube has to be drilled and tapped correct? It doesn't come with an top port stock?


There is a multiport top you can order instead of the standard on watercool.de at no extra cost or order it separately. No need to drill and tap anything.


----------



## pmc25

@Watercool-Jakob

Any chance of a more informed ETA on the Radeon VII waterblocks, now that presumably much of the design work has been done?

The EKWB one looks predictably decent, but all the recent reports about EK's problems with plating leave me cold. Bykski looks alright, but would rather not have all the RGB LED gubbins by default.


----------



## Silvina

About to make my purchases within the next couple of days, are there any coupons flying around for the watercool.de site?


----------



## Silvina

Need some sizing help too.

https://www.att-distribution.com/me...7136e95/h/e/heatkiller_tube_preview_012_m.jpg

Assuming the rad in the picture is 420,
what size of rest should i get to achieve this look? Will the 200mm be too big?


----------



## Wally West

Silvina said:


> Need some sizing help too.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.att-distribution.com/me...7136e95/h/e/heatkiller_tube_preview_012_m.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming the rad in the picture is 420,
> 
> what size of rest should i get to achieve this look? Will the 200mm be too big?


90% sure this is the 200mm in the picture.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Silvina

Wally West said:


> 90% sure this is the 200mm in the picture.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Thanks!


----------



## 414347

Heatkiller was always my favourite. I just got the new Black Copper CPU block to replace my Copper Nickel


----------



## elkwood

Nice setup !!! Looks so clean.


----------



## mirkata

Thank you Watercool!!

GPU block works great and the reservoire is classes above anything

Will be using and suggesting your products in the future.


----------



## J7SC

@*Watercool-Jakob
*
I recently put the finishing touches on my O/R build - which started back just before Christmas... Heatkiller IV on Threadripper 16c/32t (4250 MHz all cores @ 1.325v) performs flawlessly and gets the most out of two 360/60 rads and two pumps for the CPU...usually between 55c and 58c max during heavy / 100% loads. Here are some pics from my build-log pic collection re. the Heatkiller block


----------



## Section31

I have an heatkiller tube 150 with d5 next installed. Has anyone had issues with the flow meter reading 0l/h (its obviously not).


----------



## GAN77

Can someone tell me the coupon code?)

I will be grateful!


----------



## GAN77

Section31 said:


> I have an heatkiller tube 150 with d5 next installed. Has anyone had issues with the flow meter reading 0l/h (its obviously not).


On a running pump, you must press the hose and set "0". Read the manual


----------



## pmc25

What's the difference between the D5-VARIO and the WCP D5-VARIO pumps on Watercool's website?

Also, I'm assuming the 'long stand' is not long enough for the Heatkiller Tube D5 to accommodate the Aquacomputer D5 Next .. or is it? This:

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30231

Maybe the decoupling kit gives enough space? Anyone know?


----------



## GAN77

Hi guys!

Discount coupon shop.watercool.de, it works!

Sorry, Watercool-Jakob) 
Today I saw it on your twitter, a grand exhibition!


----------



## pklop

*whistle in heatkille tube d5 next combination*



Section31 said:


> I have an heatkiller tube 150 with d5 next installed. Has anyone had issues with the flow meter reading 0l/h (its obviously not).


Besides doing the calibration: according to the manual and messages on their forum you also have to use their fluid for accurate readings.

If you don't mind i have a question for you.
I have a loud annoying whistle coming from my heatkiller tube / D5 next combination. Do you experience that also?
It's not the sound of a working pump but a higher pitched tone. The pitch varies with the rpm of the pump.
I keep my pump at 100% now because when i lower it the whistle is louder.

I contacted aqua-computer and they believe that the pump is fine and the problem is the adapter (pump-top / reservoir).
Because they have had complaints about this combination before i approached them about this.
Since you have the same combination i wanted to ask about your experiences?

Kind regards,

Peter


----------



## springs113

Anyone here...I need to mount my res to a 360mm rad or my case. What do you guys use? I'm in the states by the way.


----------



## pmc25

pklop said:


> Besides doing the calibration: according to the manual and messages on their forum you also have to use their fluid for accurate readings.
> 
> If you don't mind i have a question for you.
> I have a loud annoying whistle coming from my heatkiller tube / D5 next combination. Do you experience that also?
> It's not the sound of a working pump but a higher pitched tone. The pitch varies with the rpm of the pump.
> I keep my pump at 100% now because when i lower it the whistle is louder.
> 
> I contacted aqua-computer and they believe that the pump is fine and the problem is the adapter (pump-top / reservoir).
> Because they have had complaints about this combination before i approached them about this.
> Since you have the same combination i wanted to ask about your experiences?
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> Peter


I don't understand why this should be a problem. The D5 Next is identical to all the other genuine D5s regarding the actual pump and its impeller / interface with the 'top' of the Tube, or any other. AFAIK every other D5 works fine with the Tube top / reservoir.

If the D5 Next does not, then the non pump part of its package is causing some kind of resonance, or the pump controller is causing issues with the pump itself.


----------



## Section31

One of my friends has d5 next making some noise. Myself i have not noticed but i was little unlucky, had four pumps in total (one was for friend and two of them had low fan speed error). I run the pump at 0% power (1900ish rpm) generally for your reference.

I tried caliberating it but i guess i cant do the kink with hard tubing and cant really fit an ball valve either. Also, i use mayhem solution so possibly just doesnt work at all. I will just install my barrows flow meter whenever i replace an part or build a new rig.


----------



## pklop

Thanks for the responses / feedback.


----------



## Section31

I have question with those using mora rads. I am thinking of downsizing from an caselabs s8 and going sliger cerebus x sff and using an mora rad for cooling. How much cooler would it be than two hwl 360mm rads(gtr and gtx). Also i assume i would still need say an 240mm rad setup inside the case correct?

This would be for an one cpu and gpu loop. Right now is an x299, 7920x (delidded) and 2080ti but looking to jump to amd 7nm/intel 10nm and 7nm gpu in 2020/2021. I would be transplanting cases only for now.


----------



## Abaidor

Section31 said:


> I have question with those using mora rads. I am thinking of downsizing from an caselabs s8 and going sliger cerebus x sff and using an mora rad for cooling. How much cooler would it be than two hwl 360mm rads(gtr and gtx). Also i assume i would still need say an 240mm rad setup inside the case correct?
> 
> This would be for an one cpu and gpu loop. Right now is an x299, 7920x (delidded) and 2080ti but looking to jump to amd 7nm/intel 10nm and 7nm gpu in 2020/2021. I would be transplanting cases only for now.


I am extremely happy with my MO-RA 420 Pro cooling the system in my sig. 99% my fans ( 9X Corsair ML140Pro) run at 550rpm. I have 3X waterblocks VRM, CPU, GPU full cover.

CPU is a 7940X @ 4.8 all cores
GPU 1080Ti Strix 2083/12000 
VRM - well CPU is pulling up to 400 Watt (package) 

I have mine placed on a shelf on the wall (coldest wall in a room made of concrete walls) just above the back of my PC Case. During the summer last year I was also very happy with it with worse ambients up to 26-27C (not allowing more anyway).


----------



## poisson21

I have also a MORA3-420 pro with 9 aeroccol shark fan on it and it cool a cpu (an amd 1800x, not really hot) and 2 oced vega64 (they can go up to 450W each) so i can say that in most case a MORA is sufficient by itself in most loop.


----------



## Section31

Thanks for your input. Its very tempting. Its either downsize and go external rad or go route of larger case and single 480mm rads (and reuse my 360mm hwl rads). Invested a lot already so would love to reuse the waterparts as much as can.

I would go with 360 version as my fans are the noctua a12x25.


----------



## Silvina

Hi, just ordered my MO-RA 420 Pro, can someone provide me the internal measurements of the grill, so that i can order a custom demcifilter dust filter for it? 
A picture like this would be great https://www.demcifilter.com/userfiles/image/HOME/Custom 2.jpg / https://www.demcifilter.com/Custom-Filters


----------



## NewType88

I have a mo-ra3 420 as well, with 4 nf-a20. WC does not make a block for my card, I will get one next gen though. I wish the ports were not spaced out as much to give the tubes coming from the cpu block more symmetry.


----------



## Mordorr

My block:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> What's the difference between the D5-VARIO and the WCP D5-VARIO pumps on Watercool's website?
> 
> Also, I'm assuming the 'long stand' is not long enough for the Heatkiller Tube D5 to accommodate the Aquacomputer D5 Next .. or is it? This:
> 
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30231
> 
> Maybe the decoupling kit gives enough space? Anyone know?


The WCP pumps come with an engraved stainless steel plate on the back, the standard pumps only have a sticker.
No, the NEXT pump isn't compatible with our stands, as it is clearly out of D5 specs.







springs113 said:


> Anyone here...I need to mount my res to a 360mm rad or my case. What do you guys use? I'm in the states by the way.


Basic mounting kit and 120mm adapter brackets are your friends for mounting on a vertical rad. Basic mounting kit alone to mount directly to the case wall (you might need to drill the right holes). 120mm stand for mounting on a horizontal rad.






pklop said:


> I have a loud annoying whistle coming from my heatkiller tube / D5 next combination. Do you experience that also?
> It's not the sound of a working pump but a higher pitched tone. The pitch varies with the rpm of the pump.
> I keep my pump at 100% now because when i lower it the whistle is louder.
> 
> I contacted aqua-computer and they believe that the pump is fine and the problem is the adapter (pump-top / reservoir).
> Because they have had complaints about this combination before i approached them about this.
> Since you have the same combination i wanted to ask about your experiences?
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> Peter


As stated before, the pump motor should be a standard D5. I have never heard about a noise complaint with any of our tubes ever, so it must be something with their additional modifications.
Just to be sure: you do have fluid in the res, right?




Section31 said:


> I have question with those using mora rads. I am thinking of downsizing from an caselabs s8 and going sliger cerebus x sff and using an mora rad for cooling. How much cooler would it be than two hwl 360mm rads(gtr and gtx). Also i assume i would still need say an 240mm rad setup inside the case correct?
> 
> This would be for an one cpu and gpu loop. Right now is an x299, 7920x (delidded) and 2080ti but looking to jump to amd 7nm/intel 10nm and 7nm gpu in 2020/2021. I would be transplanting cases only for now.


If you have an externally mounted MO-RA, you will definitely not need an additional internal 240. The MO-RA has way more surface, and it is constantly fed with cold ambient air, while not dumping the heat load back into the case. Definitely the most efficient cooling solution!


----------



## Shawnb99

How much of a benefit would getting the back-plate be? PPC's hasn't had one in stock for weeks now and anywhere else that has one shipping is to much to order it on it's own. Would be for the build in my Sig.
I'm running fine without it but if it would off any improvement in temps I'd like to get one if I can. Thanks


----------



## Aenra

@*Watercool-Jakob* Any updates on the dual pump volute and/or the fan controller?

And speaking of which, belated like crazy, but i -did- think of something crucial. The AQ (mentioning it since, well, basically that's the only competitor in this instance) has a very long startup time, resulting often in motherboard automated shutdowns; they detect no fan signal and go danger-mode on you.
Yes, this feature can be disabled in the BIOS, sure. Except:

i)a) One needs first power up the system with an extra fan attached to the CPU header.
i)b) Which let's be honest, often means some rearranging, as we're talking water-cooled rigs here, more components, higher build complexity; so more work for no reason.
ii) Not all motherboards support this. And between you and me, NO motherboard should be offering this at all, but.. it is what it is. Now excluding what disabling this entails (given the audience and all), i'd also remind that "features" and "custom graph tables" aside, a PWM fan controller is a welcome tool for many, not just overclockers. And currently, there really is only one external+autonomous fan controller. If you could introduce a second one that unlike the AQ did _not_ require hoops to do the basics (controlling the fans), that would be great. I can understand the need to sell (hence their adding more and more features) and i can understand the, err, oddities(?) of this particular community. But when in order to "offer" more you make the basic, the most needed and essential part (controling said fans.. shouldn't be a science to it now should there) such a chore.. problem.. And again, a dangerous chore at that; one shouldn't have to disable basic security features so as to control a few measly fans.

* Which incidentally, tells one just how irrational/illogical this community often is.. this should have been the number one issue in as far as the AQ may be concerned; and as such, equally prominent, yeah? And yet i had to buy one myself before i learned of it.. mind you, that's despite reading the relevant thread for page after page. I may be many things, but impatient i'm not.


----------



## Section31

Section31 said:


> I have question with those using mora rads. I am thinking of downsizing from an caselabs s8 and going sliger cerebus x sff and using an mora rad for cooling. How much cooler would it be than two hwl 360mm rads(gtr and gtx). Also i assume i would still need say an 240mm rad setup inside the case correct?
> 
> This would be for an one cpu and gpu loop. Right now is an x299, 7920x (delidded) and 2080ti but looking to jump to amd 7nm/intel 10nm and 7nm gpu in 2020/2021. I would be transplanting cases only for now.


If you have an externally mounted MO-RA, you will definitely not need an additional internal 240. The MO-RA has way more surface, and it is constantly fed with cold ambient air, while not dumping the heat load back into the case. Definitely the most efficient cooling solution![/QUOTE]

Thanks. Looks like that the direction i should for next pc irregardless of the case i use. Look forward to your future products, i've reccomended your products to all my friends who want to watercool.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Finally got my build up and working!

Specs: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/BucketInABucket/saved/Wxytgs


----------



## JasonMorris

very nice build.


----------



## erikbarone

Does anyone know where to find a Pump Cover for the Heatkiller 200mm D5 Combo? I dont think Watercool sell this since I couldn't find any on their site. Does other pump cover work with on this combo? Thanks


----------



## pmc25

erikbarone said:


> Does anyone know where to find a Pump Cover for the Heatkiller 200mm D5 Combo? I dont think Watercool sell this since I couldn't find any on their site. Does other pump cover work with on this combo? Thanks


I asked in DMs on their Twitter. Response was that the Barrow / Bitspower ones didn't fit.

I'm surprised Watercool don't make one themselves, I'm sure it'd be popular.


----------



## erikbarone

There is no pump bottom cover on the market that can be used on their pump/res combo I think due to the pump and res attachment system that they use. Altho the pump cables can be sleeved or tugged away and all, but still what a bummer. Well, too bad because i was planning for a Heatkiller everything build but i guess i m gonna go for singularity computer res instead


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Probably not the best place to ask, but how do EK blocks compare to heatkiller? CPU or GPU


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pmc25

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Probably not the best place to ask, but how do EK blocks compare to heatkiller? CPU or GPU
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thermal performance, usually not well, GPU wise. CPU, depends on the CPU and whether it's cheap or better EK solution; EK's first Threadripper block was dire for example.

Build quality much better on Heatkiller.

But Watercool seem to have some major supply issues at the moment. EK are available everywhere.


----------



## TheArkratos

Anyone know if the Heatkiller block can be used on a Asus 2080 Turbo? And if so anyone know where I can get a single slot IO bracket for it?
I need a new graphics card soon, would prefer Nvidia as I have a gsync panel but I need it to be single slot, every other RTX card has dual slot IO...


----------



## pmc25

Tbh you're going to get more current performance out of a Radeon VII than a 2080 if you're putting it under water, and it's not any more expensive - cheaper in most cases. Long term I'd expect it to age significantly better, as is usually the case.

With NVIDIA finally caving and supporting adaptive sync, staying hitched to monitors with a discrete Gsync controller doesn't seem very prudent. I'd ditch it and then you can move between AMD and NVIDIA (and soon Intel), depending on budget and what's on the market at the time. Discrete Gsync is dead long term, whatever NVIDIA say.


----------



## NewType88

If you guys ever make a D5 pump cover - design it to kill high frequency noise.


----------



## pmc25

NewType88 said:


> If you guys ever make a D5 pump cover - design it to kill high frequency noise.


That would be easy if it was designed to not fit flush, but instead had padding. If heat was an issue, line it with Fujipoly.

I'm surprised none of the D5 covers do this.

Tons of elaborate DDC covers on the market though.


----------



## TheArkratos

pmc25 said:


> Tbh you're going to get more current performance out of a Radeon VII than a 2080 if you're putting it under water, and it's not any more expensive - cheaper in most cases. Long term I'd expect it to age significantly better, as is usually the case.
> 
> With NVIDIA finally caving and supporting adaptive sync, staying hitched to monitors with a discrete Gsync controller doesn't seem very prudent. I'd ditch it and then you can move between AMD and NVIDIA (and soon Intel), depending on budget and what's on the market at the time. Discrete Gsync is dead long term, whatever NVIDIA say.


I agree, just there isn't a good 27" IPS 1440p 144hz+ freesync monitor at the moment that I know of, that and buying a 700$ GPU + Waterblock + >400$ monitor is a lot right now, but if I could find a monitor I would think about it. I have been eyeing the Radeon VII.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

TheArkratos said:


> Anyone know if the Heatkiller block can be used on a Asus 2080 Turbo? And if so anyone know where I can get a single slot IO bracket for it?
> 
> I need a new graphics card soon, would prefer Nvidia as I have a gsync panel but I need it to be single slot, every other RTX card has dual slot IO...




I know EK makes a single slot adapter for the 1080ti and I’m fairly sure it doesn’t matter what block you use with it. I wonder if it’ll work with the rtx. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vlada011

BucketInABucket said:


> Finally got my build up and working!
> 
> Specs: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/BucketInABucket/saved/Wxytgs



Great build, you only need Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper to replace XSPC Raystorm block.
He would look much better. Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper will be my CPU block choice forever starting from next platform.
No reason no to replace Monoblock with him even he would give me 5C better temperatures at least.
Even if Watercool.de launch Heatkiller V Pro I would maybe bought IV Pro because it's proven.


----------



## pmc25

TheArkratos said:


> I agree, just there isn't a good 27" IPS 1440p 144hz+ freesync monitor at the moment that I know of, that and buying a 700$ GPU + Waterblock + >400$ monitor is a lot right now, but if I could find a monitor I would think about it. I have been eyeing the Radeon VII.


There are a bunch Acers and no-name (small name) Asian brands which are good. I'd also consider VA (SVA - Samsung VA) too. Responsiveness isn't quite as good as the 'gaming' IPS ones, but it's not far off, and there's no IPS glow, and contrast / black levels are way better. Also, Samsung provide the panels very cheaply, so almost all the monitors based on them are very good value, and there are loads of them. I'd stay away from AUO's VA panels (though upcoming gen may be better), they still have serious responsiveness issues at higher refresh rates.

IMO your best bet is to keep your current monitor and then look at the market after Computex, as there'll be literally dozens of new monitors announced. Including lots of new gen IPS / VA with adaptive sync. With a Radeon VII > 2000Mhz on water, you're not going to be dropping to low FPS in the vast majority of games until you get well above 2560x1440 anyway, so not having sync for a while isn't going to hurt much.


----------



## Section31

Actually you can see the panels that are coming up. There is an site that shows what lg, auo,etc are coming out with. Just that it takes like 2-3years to actually hit the market. The price might actually scare you too, the 4k ips with true hdr10 (individual zones) and 120-144fps are turning out to be ridiculous expensive.


----------



## TheArkratos

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I know EK makes a single slot adapter for the 1080ti and I’m fairly sure it doesn’t matter what block you use with it. I wonder if it’ll work with the rtx.


Sadly it doesn't fit perfectly because RTX cards have that type-C port. It might fit, just not perfectly... I'll look into this...



Section31 said:


> Actually you can see the panels that are coming up. There is an site that shows what lg, auo,etc are coming out with. Just that it takes like 2-3years to actually hit the market. The price might actually scare you too, the 4k ips with true hdr10 (individual zones) and 120-144fps are turning out to be ridiculous expensive.


Personally I don't like 4k, scaling is still an issue for most applications. So I'll stick with my triple 1440p set up, just my primary has Gsync and I don't want to give up IPS 144hz to jump over to freesync :/


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*, Good day!

Help me please with sending my order. №12804.
22 days waiting to ship.


----------



## pmc25

So I bought the top for the Tube 100 D5 that allows you to have tubes come into the top of it.

However it comes with absolutely no instructions, and there's nothing on WaterCool's site either.

It's unclear what you're meant to do with it, or what you can do with it.

Can you have in and outflow at the top? Only in? Only out? What's the glass tube for and where do you mount it?

I was hoping to have water come in at the top, and go out at the bottom (from the usual port).


----------



## Section31

I think that tube purpose is similar to ekwb pipe they provide. Basically have to use for inlet/outlet. I didnt use mine as my top is acting as fillport.


----------



## pmc25

So as there's only one, are you saying the top can only act as in or out, and not both? 

Or is the pipe specifically for in, or specifically out? 

Or in the dark like I am?


----------



## sidewinder11

Use one top port as a fill port, attach the pipe to the underside of the other top port to use as an inlet (stops air getting into your loop), and use the bottom port as an outlet.


----------



## pmc25

Thanks.


----------



## pmc25

Well that's the end of that. Screwed the plastic pipe in. Decided I wanted it in the other port. Went to unscrew it. Got it maybe a fifth of a turn undone and it sheered clean off. 

No way of removing it, so that writes the whole top off.

Sending it back to Watercool is out of the question as it'll delay the build another 3 weeks given their lead times. Hopefully the dealer will take it back - they have stock fortunately.


----------



## Section31

If you need that tube and afraid of sheering, you can always order in an ekwb plastic tube. They sell it as an accessory. The ports are g1/4 so shouldnt be issue.


----------



## Mordorr

Guys your help:

This week i will receive a HEATKILLER® Tube 100 D5.


Can i upgrade later to 150? I have only to buy tube (150) plus struts, correct?

Thank you!


----------



## pmc25

Section31 said:


> If you need that tube and afraid of sheering, you can always order in an ekwb plastic tube. They sell it as an accessory. The ports are g1/4 so shouldnt be issue.


Thanks. Decided to just order another Multiport Tube Top from the dealer and I'll use that. When I build my second PC I'll get an EK tube, and hopefully find some way to extract the broken threads from the existing one.



Mordorr said:


> Guys your help:
> 
> This week i will receive a HEATKILLER® Tube 100 D5.
> 
> 
> Can i upgrade later to 150? I have only to buy tube (150) plus struts, correct?
> 
> Thank you!


Yes, correct.


----------



## Mordorr

Thank you!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

TheArkratos said:


> Anyone know if the Heatkiller block can be used on a Asus 2080 Turbo? And if so anyone know where I can get a single slot IO bracket for it?
> I need a new graphics card soon, would prefer Nvidia as I have a gsync panel but I need it to be single slot, every other RTX card has dual slot IO...


You can always check our compatibility chart at http://gpu.watercool.de for this kind of questions. Yes, our block should be compatible with that card!





pmc25 said:


> So I bought the top for the Tube 100 D5 that allows you to have tubes come into the top of it.
> 
> However it comes with absolutely no instructions, and there's nothing on WaterCool's site either.
> 
> It's unclear what you're meant to do with it, or what you can do with it.
> 
> Can you have in and outflow at the top? Only in? Only out? What's the glass tube for and where do you mount it?
> 
> I was hoping to have water come in at the top, and go out at the bottom (from the usual port).


The top is a replacement for the standard top. Hence you'll have to unscrew the standard top and install the Multiport Top instead of it.
No, it is not possible to use this reservoir with one of the top ports as outlet. The pump is installed in the bottom part, and the outlet of the pump is integrated into that bottom part. You will have to use the port specified "Out" as an outlet. 

Yes, you can use one of the top ports as inlet.




pmc25 said:


> Well that's the end of that. Screwed the plastic pipe in. Decided I wanted it in the other port. Went to unscrew it. Got it maybe a fifth of a turn undone and it sheered clean off.
> 
> No way of removing it, so that writes the whole top off.
> 
> Sending it back to Watercool is out of the question as it'll delay the build another 3 weeks given their lead times. Hopefully the dealer will take it back - they have stock fortunately.



Ouch, that sounds unfortunate! You probably screwed it in slightly twisted. Sorry that happened to you! If you need it replaced, we do sell the standpipes as separate spare parts as well. But you should be able to still use both ports, anyways. Obviously, you can't screw another standpipe into that port without removing the debris first, but the top part of that port should still be able to accept fittings.


----------



## ryan92084

For those that didn't notice it in GAN77's post last month Watercool showed off their TCC fan controller at pax east a bit. Not a whole lot of new info but nice to see progress. @ 5.25 https://www.facebook.com/EnviousMod/videos/260787034870376/


----------



## Vlada011

Heatkiller dominate in watercooling world.
If you can afford Bitspower fittings, find Black Ice Nemesis radiators and chooce Heatkiller blocks and reservoir you shouldn't look nothing else.
That should be sad to new watercooling customers.

This MO-RA3 360 PRO Stainless Steal with 9 Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM and Fan Grill over is excellent to stay from other side of monitor opposite of PC, and on other end small 
Mini ITX Aluminum Lian Li PC-Q37 with Heatkiller IV PRO and Heatkiller GPU block. Tubes 2m long under table and quick disconnect fittings on back of case-GREAT, GREAT.

Mini ITX Case with 45C on GPU and CPU without fans and radiators inside.


----------



## pmc25

Availability is WaterCool's huge problem. Stock is minimal to non-existent almost everywhere, with most stockists either having marked stuff as finished, or no re-stock date when you ask them. Direct, they seem to be taking 2-3 weeks to ship at the moment. Plus, new products seem to be being delayed badly. New radiator range is about a year late ... initial ETA for Radeon VII block is more than a month past now, with no idea when it'll appear or if work has even begun on it.

They make some awesome products, but it's getting more and more difficult to obtain or use them.


----------



## GAN77

I'm still waiting for sending my order, it's been 33 days.
And no one with support does not answer me, I already wrote three times.


----------



## pmc25

I wonder if they have cashflow issues.


----------



## Vlada011

I will buy Watercool.de over Caseking.de and their office in Hungary like most of stuff.
Caseking.de could easy to find some parts I need from Watercool.de... 

That's most wanted watercooling parts at the moment and I believe only company who nicely represent famous German quality, maybe Aqua Computer have some nice parts but they are too complicate and I don't like such things...But DDC Aqualis is nice example.


----------



## pmc25

Vlada011 said:


> I will buy Watercool.de over Caseking.de and their office in Hungary like most of stuff.
> Caseking.de could easy to find some parts I need from Watercool.de...


Dunno how you come to that conclusion.

Caseking have removed most of Watercool's range from their site, and about half is now 'unbekannt' (unknown - i.e. replacements are not ordered and it's not known if there will be any more stock). Most of the stuff in stock is older stuff. Only a very few items out of stock are showing as ordered. Indeed, Caseking are OverclockersUK's parent, and the latter have completely discontinued WaterCool's entire range, after having stock problems for months. When I spoke to OCUK they said there were no plans to restock anything. When I spoke to Caseking and asked if they could order stuff, they said there were supply problems and wouldn't go into it any further. This mirrors experience when I've spoken to other distributors.

Have they actually told you (recently) that they can order things for you? I have my doubts.


----------



## Vlada011

Because before few months, 3-4 maybe, my friend asked me for reservoir pump combo and I advice him to buy Heatkiller 150 D5, he buy immediately but Mounting mechanism for fan was not avaialble, I asked them and he asked for Black Copper block for Intel. For month I saw them on stock and he bought.

Because of that I thought they want to bring parts from customers because both companies are from Germany.
I asked them and for HW Labs radiators, but looks like they had bed experience before several years when HW Labs radiators were dirty, many customers complain and they didn't offer them. But that would be best possible advice if they start to bring Watercool de parts and HW Labs Black Ice Nemesis.

It's true now a lot of parts are out of stock, but that's only evidence that people want them.
Same as Swiftech Maelstrome D5 X500/100/200 was fast out of stock, and now they have Version 2 and that will be sold very fast.
That;s two best quality pump-res combo available Heatkiller and Maelstrom D5 X.


----------



## GAN77

Good day, *Watercool-Jakob*!

I placed and paid for the order on April 1, 2019.
Order has been assigned a number #12804.
Order has not been sent today.
I wrote several letters, but I did not receive a response in time.

Please inform me. When you plan on sending my order 12804?

Thank you and with respect,
Aliaksandr Harakhovich


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> Availability is WaterCool's huge problem. Stock is minimal to non-existent almost everywhere, with most stockists either having marked stuff as finished, or no re-stock date when you ask them. Direct, they seem to be taking 2-3 weeks to ship at the moment. Plus, new products seem to be being delayed badly. New radiator range is about a year late ... initial ETA for Radeon VII block is more than a month past now, with no idea when it'll appear or if work has even begun on it.
> 
> They make some awesome products, but it's getting more and more difficult to obtain or use them.


This is both true and wrong at the same time  

You are absolutely right that our availability is pretty bad right now. The reason is simple: we were overrun by orders. We were receiving more orders per day than we could produce in the same time for several months in a row. This obviously led to a massive backorder problem. We are continuously growing both our staff and our machine park, and bought several extremely expensive new machines throughout 2019. These already led to higher production capacities. Our estimation is that we will be back to ship new orders within 1-3 days by late summer, while also being back to supplying all our resellers worldwide with product. 

So yes, availability was pretty rough for the last 6-9 months. But no, the peak is through, and it is currently getting better again. 




GAN77 said:


> Good day, *Watercool-Jakob*!
> 
> I placed and paid for the order on April 1, 2019.
> Order has been assigned a number #12804.
> Order has not been sent today.
> I wrote several letters, but I did not receive a response in time.
> 
> Please inform me. When you plan on sending my order 12804?


Please see the mail that I sent you today regarding this


----------



## Mordorr

Did Buy Heatkiller D5 100Ml 2 weeks ago and receive one week ago the reservator + Watercooler D5 Vario pump + some fittings...

No problems.

But yes....their foruns some users are complain about "nickel" shortage...

Anyway...

Heatkiller IV Nickel WB + Reservator and im very very happy with this choice.

Die Best!:Snorkle::thumb:


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Please see the mail that I sent you today regarding this


Good day!
Thank you, I received a reply in the mail.
I can expand the order, while there is time, add a few positions?


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> This is both true and wrong at the same time
> 
> You are absolutely right that our availability is pretty bad right now. The reason is simple: we were overrun by orders. We were receiving more orders per day than we could produce in the same time for several months in a row. This obviously led to a massive backorder problem. We are continuously growing both our staff and our machine park, and bought several extremely expensive new machines throughout 2019. These already led to higher production capacities. Our estimation is that we will be back to ship new orders within 1-3 days by late summer, while also being back to supplying all our resellers worldwide with product.
> 
> So yes, availability was pretty rough for the last 6-9 months. But no, the peak is through, and it is currently getting better again.


You really need to be much more active communicating this to both the punters and your resellers, then. Most of the latter appear to be completely in the dark or despairing. Also, most indicated that supply has been an issue for much longer than 6-9 months.

In order to get a Tube 100 D5 I had to cannibalise the pump top from the 200 D5 that I was going to use for a later build, and order a normal Tube 100 from one of the last resellers with stock, then a Multiport 100 and tall standing bracket from a different reseller with stock of those. The standing bracket isn't ideal for my case, though, I've found. Now I need to order 120mm fan brackets and the reservoir holders ... but none of your resellers have them (resellers being out of most of the accessories and spare parts is maybe the worst bit), and it'd take weeks more from you. Furthermore, I need to now obtain a new D5 Tube pump top for the 200 Tube, and a new Borosilicate glass vessel too, as the bottom of it shattered when I unscrewed it**.

It's really frustrating that it's like this. Hope it gets resolved sooner rather than later.

**N.B. to anyone taking their Tube apart, do each screw a few rotations at a time very slowly - if there's uneven pressure on the glass it will fail. Same with doing it back up, do it very slowly with even pressure.

Edit: Given the situation, have you not considered stopping new orders for a couple of weeks, so you can get caught back up? Surely that would be better than prolonging the current status quo.


----------



## GAN77

Council for the manufacturer.
The HEATKILLER® Tube - 120 / 140mm fan adapter can be replaced with a similar design. This will allow the reservoir to shift to the left and right from the vertical axis, which may be convenient when assembling on solid (hard) tube.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Good day!
> Thank you, I received a reply in the mail.
> I can expand the order, while there is time, add a few positions?


Let's discuss this per mail, please. The status of one individual order is of no interest for everyone else in the thread, and will just clog the thread for all the other interested persons. 




pmc25 said:


> You really need to be much more active communicating this to both the punters and your resellers, then. Most of the latter appear to be completely in the dark or despairing. Also, most indicated that supply has been an issue for much longer than 6-9 months.
> 
> In order to get a Tube 100 D5 I had to cannibalise the pump top from the 200 D5 that I was going to use for a later build, and order a normal Tube 100 from one of the last resellers with stock, then a Multiport 100 and tall standing bracket from a different reseller with stock of those. The standing bracket isn't ideal for my case, though, I've found. Now I need to order 120mm fan brackets and the reservoir holders ... but none of your resellers have them (resellers being out of most of the accessories and spare parts is maybe the worst bit), and it'd take weeks more from you. Furthermore, I need to now obtain a new D5 Tube pump top for the 200 Tube, and a new Borosilicate glass vessel too, as the bottom of it shattered when I unscrewed it**.
> 
> It's really frustrating that it's like this. Hope it gets resolved sooner rather than later.
> 
> **N.B. to anyone taking their Tube apart, do each screw a few rotations at a time very slowly - if there's uneven pressure on the glass it will fail. Same with doing it back up, do it very slowly with even pressure.
> 
> Edit: Given the situation, have you not considered stopping new orders for a couple of weeks, so you can get caught back up? Surely that would be better than prolonging the current status quo.


Well, you can always order directly from us. Small parts, like a few accessories for a Tube, are usually shipped within 2 days. EVen an order for just a tube with like couple of mounts is usually shipped within ~2-5 days. 

We are aware of the bad availability, and as I said in my previous post: we are working very hard to solve this situation. But please understand that I cannot comment on our internal communication patterns with our B2B partners. I heard your feedback, and can only repeat myself: we are pushing very hard to solve the issues.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, you can always order directly from us. Small parts, like a few accessories for a Tube, are usually shipped within 2 days. EVen an order for just a tube with like couple of mounts is usually shipped within ~2-5 days.


Just ordered the reservoir brackets directly from you (and RGB LED strip), all marked as in stock. Hopefully it does ship as quickly as you say.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool WCP D5-PWM №30048 and D5-PWM №30046 - What is the fundamental difference?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> Just ordered the reservoir brackets directly from you (and RGB LED strip), all marked as in stock. Hopefully it does ship as quickly as you say.


If I put yournickname to the correct order, it seems as if it shipped today. 







GAN77 said:


> Watercool WCP D5-PWM №30048 and D5-PWM №30046 - What is the fundamental difference?


THe standard pump has a paper sticker glued to the back. The WCP pump has a nice laser engraved stainless steel plaque instead. There is no functional difference between the two.


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*

Thanks for the answer!

The clarifying question is, what is the PWM duty cycle for these pumps? 20-100% or other meanings?

Thank!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Thanks for the answer!
> 
> The clarifying question is, what is the PWM duty cycle for these pumps? 20-100% or other meanings?
> 
> Thank!


If the pwmcable is not connected, the pumps run with roughly 60%. When connected, they can be controlled from 20-100%.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> If the pwmcable is not connected, the pumps run with roughly 60%. When connected, they can be controlled from 20-100%.



Thank you again for your help!


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> If I put your nickname to the correct order, it seems as if it shipped today.


Thank you, it did indeed ship today. Indicating a Thursday delivery.

Unrelated question:

Are you guys planning to revisit your AM4 blocks? With it now being an open secret that Ryzen 3 chips will include both 12 and 16 core CPUs, when overclocked, even at 7nm, these are likely to output a lot more heat than the Ryzen 1 & 2 8 cores. If that wasn't the case, then the X570 boards wouldn't be getting beefier VRMs and heatsinks. Maybe more fins or a different design for the block would help?

Also, another nag re: the Radeon VII block. Any progress?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> Thank you, it did indeed ship today. Indicating a Thursday delivery.
> 
> Unrelated question:
> 
> Are you guys planning to revisit your AM4 blocks? With it now being an open secret that Ryzen 3 chips will include both 12 and 16 core CPUs, when overclocked, even at 7nm, these are likely to output a lot more heat than the Ryzen 1 & 2 8 cores. If that wasn't the case, then the X570 boards wouldn't be getting beefier VRMs and heatsinks. Maybe more fins or a different design for the block would help?
> 
> Also, another nag re: the Radeon VII block. Any progress?



Zen2 blocks:we are aware of the new design and are currently trying to get a test sample to determine how our current block performs on that layout. Dependingon that data, we will make the call if a dedicated block is necessary.


Radeon VII block: no update, sorry.


----------



## lb_felipe

@Watercool-Jakob, does this on this fit in this (150mm clearance) horizontally?


----------



## ryan92084

lb_felipe said:


> @Watercool-Jakob, does this on this fit in this (150mm clearance) horizontally?


I could be wrong but I believe the original O11 from your link has a larger than 150mm clearance. Did you mean the dynamic/air?


----------



## lb_felipe

ryan92084 said:


> I could be wrong but I believe the original O11 from your link has a larger than 150mm clearance. Did you mean the dynamic/air?


In Lian Li's website, it is told whatever PC-O11 has just 150mm (in some parts, it is 159mm what is confusing). E.g. according some Newegg customers's reviews, Aorus RTX 2080 Ti WB doesn't fit horizontally. It is 159mm width.

Though this is a PC-O11D, if whatever PC-O11 has the same clearance, it shows up that that graphics card doesn't fit: https://youtu.be/NTvsW0x3pi0?t=660

The question is if the Strix RTX 2080 Ti outfitted with a Heatkiller IV fits inside a PC-O11 (any one) horizontally.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

lb_felipe said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* , does this on this fit in this (150mm clearance) horizontally?



The only information that I can give you is that our block is 137mm wide on the widest part, including the terminal. I don't know if the "150mm" clearance is measured from the MB tray, the MB itself, or the top of a PCIe Slot. So I can't make a final statement on wether it will fit in this specific case. Please contact Lian Li directly for more information on their definition of "clearance".
But my personal guesstimation is that it should just work out.


----------



## lb_felipe

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The only information that I can give you is that our block is 137mm wide on the widest part, including the terminal. I don't know if the "150mm" clearance is measured from the MB tray, the MB itself, or the top of a PCIe Slot. So I can't make a final statement on wether it will fit in this specific case. Please contact Lian Li directly for more information on their definition of "clearance".
> But my personal guesstimation is that it should just work out.


Okay. Fair enough but what is the width of the combo (Strix RTX 2080 Ti + Heatkiller IV)?

Edit:

Or even better, what is the width increase (if there is some one) when Heatkiller IV is attached to Strix RTX 2080 Ti?


----------



## ryan92084

lb_felipe said:


> In Lian Li's website, it is told whatever PC-O11 has just 150mm (in some parts, it is 159mm what is confusing). E.g. according some Newegg customers's reviews, Aorus RTX 2080 Ti WB doesn't fit horizontally. It is 159mm width.
> 
> Though this is a PC-O11D, if whatever PC-O11 has the same clearance, it shows up that that graphics card doesn't fit: https://youtu.be/NTvsW0x3pi0?t=660
> 
> The question is if the Strix RTX 2080 Ti outfitted with a Heatkiller IV fits inside a PC-O11 (any one) horizontally.


The D is the dynamic so again it depends on which version of the o11 you are asking about, there are several. The air/dynamic/razer are the ones with potential clearance issues. They maintain a list gpu waterblock list for those models here but unfortunately don't test heatkiller blocks but they have been pretty decent about answering questions if you contact them.

The older o11 models (like your link) are a little bigger and don't have the staggered motherboard tray. I thought their clearance was better but after poking around it might just be a little different.


----------



## lb_felipe

ryan92084 said:


> The D is the dynamic so again it depends on which version of the o11 you are asking about, there are several. The air/dynamic/razer are the ones with potential clearance issues. They maintain a list gpu waterblock list for those models here but unfortunately don't test heatkiller blocks but they have been pretty decent about answering questions if you contact them.
> 
> The older o11 models (like your link) are a little bigger and don't have the staggered motherboard tray. I thought their clearance was better but after poking around it might just be a little different.


Both PC-O11 and PC-O11D have same specs as regards graphics cards clearance. See image below. The same is with CPU cooler clearance: 150mm.

Update: If PC-O11's specs page says it is 150mm clearance for graphics card and if an 159mm card (Aorus RTX 2080 Ti WB) didn't fit inside PC-O11D (whose specs page says it is 159mm for VGA and 155mmm for CPU cooler), then PC-O11 is narrower than PC-O11D, right?

Anyway, what is important is how much Strix RTX 2080 Ti's size is increased by using a Heatkiller IV.


----------



## Talon720

TheArkratos said:


> I agree, just there isn't a good 27" IPS 1440p 144hz+ freesync monitor at the moment that I know of, that and buying a 700$ GPU + Waterblock + >400$ monitor is a lot right now, but if I could find a monitor I would think about it. I have been eyeing the Radeon VII.


The nixeus edg 27inch is pretty good the freesync range 40-144hz ips it also can be found on sale. The 2nd version coming out is including freesync over hdmi as well.


----------



## jarcsp

Loving my Heatkiller stuff  (2080Ti block, CPU Block and Res with multiport and bare aluminium studs) Miles away from EK in the quality department.


----------



## 414347

jarcsp said:


> Loving my Heatkiller stuff  (2080Ti block, CPU Block and Res with multiport and bare aluminium studs) Miles away from EK in the quality department.


Freakishly nice build  you can only get that with Heatkiller


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

lb_felipe said:


> Or even better, what is the width increase (if there is some one) when Heatkiller IV is attached to Strix RTX 2080 Ti?


The width increase from the edge of the PCB to the edge of the terminal is 21mm.


----------



## lb_felipe

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The width increase from the edge of the PCB to the edge of the terminal is 21mm.


That's so helpful. Thank you.

By my calcs Strix 2080 Ti with Heatkiller IV would be 130.4+21 mm = 151.4 mm width. I am going to post that on Lian Li's thread and ask if that combo fits inside a PC-O11, PC-O11ROG or PC-O11D. (oddly Lian Li states sometimes 150 mm or 159 mm of clearance).


----------



## Vlada011

Guys what's your common choice for hard tubing 12/10mm. 
Acrylic, PETG, brand...?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Vlada011 said:


> Guys what's your common choice for hard tubing 12/10mm.
> Acrylic, PETG, brand...?


We currently only carry acrylic tubes. They come in 12/10, 14/10 and 16/12 sizes.


----------



## 414347

Vlada011 said:


> Guys what's your common choice for hard tubing 12/10mm.
> Acrylic, PETG, brand...?


Unless you working on small form factor 16mmOD its very good size. Not that the size really matter when comes to performance, it doesn't, its strictly the aesthetics. 

If you planing on doing your first loop I would go straight to acrylic, its solid material, unlike PETG will absorb some of the liquid, maybe not quickly but over time once will start, it will absorb faster also, PETG its not crystal clear opposed to acrylic.

Since the beginning I personalty have used 16mmOD Monsoon and they are great but after about 8 years once I have tried Bitspowers 16mmOD clear acrylic I can tell big difference in quality between them both. 

Monsoon has very thin walls it feels cheep compare top Bitspowers acrylic. 

I remember when I was first getting into custom loop I was going to use soft tubing and someone advised me to do acrylic right from Get-go, it would take me much longer to complete but at the end I would be much happier so I did and I am so glad I took that advice.

The only advantage that some ppl might see with PETG over acrylic is the quicker time of heating up the material and that makes it "easier" of bending...I honestly think that is lame excuse considering that you still have to bend and the benefits of acrylic is much grater.

Be prepare to waist few pcs. ..no big deal. I just did my separate custom loop and I have wasted few pcs. so even if you good at it, you will find yourself to mess up on occasions but as long as you wont change much of your configuration other then changing GPU(s) acrylic will last years and years in your build.


----------



## chibi

Hey Jakob, any updates on the new rads? I remember hearing about them this time last year. Thanks!


----------



## Section31

Looking like im going to get amd 7nm. Should i get the am4 adapter or wait for the new potential cpu block.


----------



## Vlada011

I believe every CPU blocks available now will get adapter for new sockets.
I saw some Heatkiller IV PRO new color version on some video clip In here on topic.
Black Nickel Plated, dark. 

But I'm huge fan of silver-black combination and IV PRO Black Copper is my favorite. My next block for next platform.
If they launch V PRO again I would left few months or rather choose IV because it's used without complains.
I special like how they resolve him inside, without extra parts. Actually I think block is from 3 parts.
People who pay attention on quality more then RGB effect like to see this...











Simple, sturdy, robust, beautifull mounting mechanism, nice performance, no corrosion problems in combination with same material, good tradition, what else enthusiasts could wish for.

Radiator is not easy to build at all. I would left to companies specialized for that build me radiator and I would give him only finish.
Imagine Black Ice Nemesis GTS in stainless steel or aluminum housing by Watercool.de. That would be best radiator on market.
Only need two choose two versions GTR/GTX and GTS and give them nice housing and grills.


----------



## pmc25

Potentially relevant to possible future Radeon VII block design. This appears to be getting better results than anything else, and modified CPU blocks generally seem to be getting the best results.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/27975726-post1309.html


----------



## ChiTownButcher

With the rumors on the new Zen 3000 series and the chipset running warm I wonder if there are plans for full cover blocks. If there is a [email protected] 10000% I am going Zen and would be very interested in a full block (VRM, CPU and Chipset).


----------



## Vlada011

Watercool.de didn't expect probably so high demand last 12 months for Heatkiller Tube Series and CPU Blocks, they are out of stock everywhere. .


----------



## Vlada011

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's TEASER-TIME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what are you looking at? This is the main component of our soon-to-come controller System! Some main features:
> - extremely compact in size: with only 82x67x15mm, the main PCB can be installed on the backside of the mainboard tray, hiding all the cables. It is also compatible with standard 2,5'' mounting points, but is so lightweight that we actually plan to just add some good velcro for ultimate mounting flexibility.
> - Modular Bus system. With a single 4pin Bus cable, an optional Display unit can be connected. This unit comes with an OLED and will be able to configure and control the whole loop without an array of buttons. It can be installed in 5,25'' front bays or can come with an external housing to sit neatly on your desktop.
> - Four separately controllable fan channels, each can carry up to 2 Ampere. These channels are also compatible with PWM fans. Additionally, two PWM pumps can be installed.
> 
> -Wide sensor input: you can use up to four standard NTC Tempsensors. But you can also use our new HPT (HighPerformanceTemperatureprobe) Sensors - fully digital sensors with improved accuracy. A Flow sensor (will also be available at Watercool) can also be controlled.
> 
> - RGB everything: a header for programmable RGB LEDs is already integrated into the controller!
> - ATX breaker contact: to power off the system in the case of an emergency.
> - Power comes from an adapter cable directly from a PSU Molex connector.
> 
> 
> The system already runs in some industrial appliances. We are currently finalizing the end-user software applications, and aim to release the whole system until X-mas 2018!


This is nice, I don't need to search more for ASUS Fan Extension Card II,
In my case have some nice place for mounting SSD or 2.5' HDD

Here... now I install there ASUS Fan Extension Card first model.


----------



## pmc25

I'm assuming you need to take the Tube apart (dismount struts before adding these and remounting)? The instructions on the shop page seem to imply that you just slide them on, with no mention of disassembly .... but I don't see how that's possible?


----------



## InfoSeeker

pmc25 said:


> I'm assuming you need to take the Tube apart (dismount struts before adding these and remounting)? The instructions on the shop page seem to imply that you just slide them on, with no mention of disassembly .... but I don't see how that's possible?



Yes, remove the four screws from either the top or bottom, slide the mounts on, then reinstall the top/bottom cap.
When loosening the screws, do so a bit at a time crosswise, as the cap is under compression from the O-ring. Tighten the same way on reinstall.


----------



## pmc25

InfoSeeker said:


> Yes, remove the four screws from either the top or bottom, slide the mounts on, then reinstall the top/bottom cap.
> When loosening the screws, do so a bit at a time crosswise, as the cap is under compression from the O-ring. Tighten the same way on reinstall.


Thanks. Yes, I'm aware. I did try to do that the first time I opened one up, but clearly not carefully enough ... huge crack shot through the glass. IMO they should ship with a warning to do it VERY slowly and carefully.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> I'm assuming you need to take the Tube apart (dismount struts before adding these and remounting)? The instructions on the shop page seem to imply that you just slide them on, with no mention of disassembly .... but I don't see how that's possible?


The whole process is explained in the manual.


----------



## Wally West

pmc25 said:


> I'm assuming you need to take the Tube apart (dismount struts before adding these and remounting)? The instructions on the shop page seem to imply that you just slide them on, with no mention of disassembly .... but I don't see how that's possible?


Simply need to remove the top slowly, loose the 4 screw, insert the two brackets and put the top back on.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jvillaveces

The time is approaching for me to start my new build. I'm curious about the status of two product developments announced here last year:

- The new family of radiators
- The controller system mentioned a few posts back

Any chance they will be available in the near future? I would love to give them a try and I'm not too concerned with the risk of being an early adopter, but I don't know whether it makes sense to wait a few weeks. Should I opt instead for the usual suspects in those categories?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

This is why I asked if full blocks are in the future for X570 especiallywith the chipset running hot and those of us who build for silence... Sexy AF!


----------



## pmc25

ChiTownButcher said:


> This is why I asked if full blocks are in the future for X570 especiallywith the chipset running hot and those of us who build for silence... Sexy AF!


Assume that's the AsRock X570 Water?

Wish they'd done everything but the CPU socket, then we could have used our own choice for that. 

Still, curious how performance might be. I expect not hugely brilliant, as the flow restriction might be pretty high, and cold plate designs are usually terrible when they're from mobo or gpu OEMs. If they've partnered with one of the Taiwanese OEMs for the block designs, then Bitspower and Tt aren't exactly class leading wrt to blocks (though some of their other products are very good).


----------



## ChiTownButcher

pmc25 said:


> ChiTownButcher said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is why I asked if full blocks are in the future for X570 especiallywith the chipset running hot and those of us who build for silence... Sexy AF!
> 
> 
> 
> Assume that's the AsRock X570 Water?
> 
> Wish they'd done everything but the CPU socket, then we could have used our own choice for that.
> 
> Still, curious how performance might be. I expect not hugely brilliant, as the flow restriction might be pretty high, and cold plate designs are usually terrible when they're from mobo or gpu OEMs. If they've partnered with one of the Taiwanese OEMs for the block designs, then Bitspower and Tt aren't exactly class leading wrt to blocks (though some of their other products are very good).
Click to expand...

And that is why I would love for them to make full blocks for like Aorus Master and Extreme, MSI Godlike, Asus Crosshar VIII formula ect.

I like the heatkiller aesthetic and performance.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ChiTownButcher said:


> With the rumors on the new Zen 3000 series and the chipset running warm I wonder if there are plans for full cover blocks. If there is a [email protected] 10000% I am going Zen and would be very interested in a full block (VRM, CPU and Chipset).


We are aware of theinteresting changes that come with Zen2, and are already in cooperation with AMD to develop a perfectly tailored block for the CPUs.
We also do plan to make VRM blocks for some selected boards, as well. While we already have a lineup of chipset blocks, we also want to redesign those for the new X570 boards. 

But we do not plan to make fullcover-monoblocks for Mainboards. In our opinion, this isn't the best approach. 




jvillaveces said:


> The time is approaching for me to start my new build. I'm curious about the status of two product developments announced here last year:
> 
> - The new family of radiators
> - The controller system mentioned a few posts back
> 
> Any chance they will be available in the near future? I would love to give them a try and I'm not too concerned with the risk of being an early adopter, but I don't know whether it makes sense to wait a few weeks. Should I opt instead for the usual suspects in those categories?


I can't give you an ETA on either, so it will be more than a few weeks. I'll announce them to the thread as soon as it's final!


----------



## Section31

Great news. I will wait for your ryzen 3000 cpu blocks then.


----------



## Shawnb99

How much longer till stores start getting in more stock of the Heatkiller IV backplate for Intel? Only been looking for it for 6 months now with no where having it in stock.

It’s hard to recommend your gear to others when it’s never in stock.


----------



## Dotachin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We also do plan to make VRM blocks for some selected boards, as well. While we already have a lineup of chipset blocks, we also want to redesign those for the new X570 boards.
> !


I assume by now I should stop waiting for a x399 asrock vrm block right? :sad-smile :sad-smile


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are aware of theinteresting changes that come with Zen2, and are already in cooperation with AMD to develop a perfectly tailored block for the CPUs.
> We also do plan to make VRM blocks for some selected boards, as well. While we already have a lineup of chipset blocks, we also want to redesign those for the new X570 boards.


I assume as Zen 2 is probably the biggest CPU launch in 10 years, you intend to have revised Ryzen 3 blocks out either at or shortly after July the 7th, unlike the various other projects which have been delayed?

Is it likely that the TR4 block also gets upgraded? I feel like it's almost as good as it gets already, but maybe the smaller node and revised IO chiplet change things there too?

Re: VRM blocks, I hope you do the existing X399 Taichi, as well as newer X570 / X599 (think it's going to be X599 as Intel's 'new' stuff is X499). It's been the best and most heavily used board for overclocking on Zen and Zen+, and I can't imagine it not being more than sufficient still for Zen 2 TR4.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We also do plan to make VRM blocks for some selected boards.



Do so, or even better!

I'll be the first in line to buy!


----------



## Vlada011

Monoblocks look cool but flaws are not so good performance as CPU block and because can't be used for next platform.
For Intel mainstream choice is very easy, no reason for investing in Monoblock twice money of high end CPU block.
For Intel Skylake-X watercooling of VRM is welcomed. First time that manufacturers of motherboards were not ready for power consumption and temperatures and improved VRM section and cooling. 

I'm in love in Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper and I doubt even if show something newer from Watercool.de that I will like as him.
Black-Silver give me nice visual experience and silver parts not allow to black become monotonous after some time.
I believe i could use this combination forever. But for Heatkiller D5 Tube I want black struts to stay with RGB led strip.


----------



## Zammin

Does anyone have any idea where I can get maybe a generic RGB strip the same size as the Heatkiller size S one for the tube reservoirs? They are incredibly hard to find in stock outside of the Watercool web store, and the official store wants 39.99 Euro to ship a 9.20 Euro LED strip....

My understanding is that it's just an 8mm wide RGB strip, but looking on ebay I only seem to be able to find 10mm wide ones which I don't think will fit in the strut of the reservoir.

I'm in Australia but I don't mind buying from overseas if they don't want double the cost of the item or more for delivery. We actually have one store here in Aus that sell Watercool stuff (Mwave) but they only sell a very small range (pretty much just one radiator, three reservoirs, one or two last gen GPU blocks and a few CPU blocks) but they don't sell these and they refuse to order in anything from Watercool other than the tiny range they currently have even though they claim to be our Australian Watercool reseller....


----------



## InfoSeeker

Zammin said:


> Does anyone have any idea where I can get maybe a generic RGB strip the same size as the Heatkiller size S one for the tube reservoirs? They are incredibly hard to find in stock outside of the Watercool web store, and the official store wants 39.99 Euro to ship a 9.20 Euro LED strip....
> 
> My understanding is that it's just an 8mm wide RGB strip, but looking on ebay I only seem to be able to find 10mm wide ones which I don't think will fit in the strut of the reservoir.
> 
> I'm in Australia but I don't mind buying from overseas if they don't want double the cost of the item or more for delivery. We actually have one store here in Aus that sell Watercool stuff (Mwave) but they only sell a very small range (pretty much just one radiator, three reservoirs, one or two last gen GPU blocks and a few CPU blocks) but they don't sell these and they refuse to order in anything from Watercool other than the tiny range they currently have even though they claim to be our Australian Watercool reseller....



Not sure if this is much help, but it looks like Performance-PCs ships to Australia. The total from Perfomance-PCs should be around $42AUD with U.S. Postal Service, about half what you're seeing from Germany.


----------



## SHNS0

Some Heatkiller goodness here.

Acetal/Ni for CPU and GPU (RTX 2080), with a Heatkiller Tube 100 DDC.

God I love their stuff.


----------



## Mordorr

Is it normal Heatkiller 100D, loose liquid from top?


----------



## Vlada011

SHNS0 said:


> Some Heatkiller goodness here.
> 
> Acetal/Ni for CPU and GPU (RTX 2080), with a Heatkiller Tube 100 DDC.
> 
> God I love their stuff.


I dream about possibility to Heatkiller 100 D5 hang like that from radiator place.
But you probably drill something. I don't want to drill my Lian Li.

Heatkiller 100 Tube is so good. 
Because it's not so small as people think, could serve in normal loop size and could fit in smaller PC Case.
Ideal is mounting like that with D5 Next pump or Laing D5 w Speed Controller.
I can't wait to hold in hand. Anyway I would install multitop port without internal tube even if not use top inlet port.

You use Delta fans? Probably you not care about noise. 
How much is max speed on them? 2500-3000?


----------



## 414347

SHNS0 said:


> Some Heatkiller goodness here.
> 
> Acetal/Ni for CPU and GPU (RTX 2080), with a Heatkiller Tube 100 DDC.
> 
> God I love their stuff.


Sick looking hardware


----------



## SHNS0

Vlada011 said:


> I dream about possibility to Heatkiller 100 D5 hang like that from radiator place.
> But you probably drill something. I don't want to drill my Lian Li.
> 
> Heatkiller 100 Tube is so good.
> Because it's not so small as people think, could serve in normal loop size and could fit in smaller PC Case.
> Ideal is mounting like that with D5 Next pump or Laing D5 w Speed Controller.
> I can't wait to hold in hand. Anyway I would install multitop port without internal tube even if not use top inlet port.
> 
> You use Delta fans? Probably you not care about noise.
> How much is max speed on them? 2500-3000?


I didn't drill anything, luckily there was compatible mounting points. You can also use one of their multiple adapter brackets to try mounting it like on a fan, without any modification involved 

I bought the combo before the D5 Next was released, if it wasn't for that I definitely would've gone for it!

Yeah Delta fans, I like them a lot, I don't care much about noise but they can be silent. Max speed is 3500rpm, with min speed at around 400 rpm.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Dotachin said:


> I assume by now I should stop waiting for a x399 asrock vrm block right? :sad-smile :sad-smile


Yes, we do not plan to support that board. Sorry ://




Shawnb99 said:


> How much longer till stores start getting in more stock of the Heatkiller IV backplate for Intel? Only been looking for it for 6 months now with no where having it in stock.
> 
> It’s hard to recommend your gear to others when it’s never in stock.


It's back in stock at PPCS, Dazmode, Caseking. A new shipment to MMM will leave this week. So yes, availability was bad. But we are improving.




pmc25 said:


> I assume as Zen 2 is probably the biggest CPU launch in 10 years, you intend to have revised Ryzen 3 blocks out either at or shortly after July the 7th, unlike the various other projects which have been delayed?
> 
> Is it likely that the TR4 block also gets upgraded? I feel like it's almost as good as it gets already, but maybe the smaller node and revised IO chiplet change things there too?
> 
> Re: VRM blocks, I hope you do the existing X399 Taichi, as well as newer X570 / X599 (think it's going to be X599 as Intel's 'new' stuff is X499). It's been the best and most heavily used board for overclocking on Zen and Zen+, and I can't imagine it not being more than sufficient still for Zen 2 TR4.


Yes, the Ryzen 3000 block has the highest priority right now, and will be released in summer. 

No, we currently do not plan to make a new TR block, our current design should still be more than sufficient. 

No, we do not plan to support more X399 boards. 




Zammin said:


> Does anyone have any idea where I can get maybe a generic RGB strip the same size as the Heatkiller size S one for the tube reservoirs? They are incredibly hard to find in stock outside of the Watercool web store, and the official store wants 39.99 Euro to ship a 9.20 Euro LED strip....
> 
> My understanding is that it's just an 8mm wide RGB strip, but looking on ebay I only seem to be able to find 10mm wide ones which I don't think will fit in the strut of the reservoir.
> 
> I'm in Australia but I don't mind buying from overseas if they don't want double the cost of the item or more for delivery. We actually have one store here in Aus that sell Watercool stuff (Mwave) but they only sell a very small range (pretty much just one radiator, three reservoirs, one or two last gen GPU blocks and a few CPU blocks) but they don't sell these and they refuse to order in anything from Watercool other than the tiny range they currently have even though they claim to be our Australian Watercool reseller....


Shipping: we do offer a letter shipping method for small parts. It's 7,50€ for international letters. It comes without tracking or insurance. Standard runtime is specified as 4-10 days. 

Mwave: I am currently trying to persuade them to carry a wider range. If they get requests from customer side, as well, this might improve the availability in your region! So any support is appreciated!




Mordorr said:


> Is it normal Heatkiller 100D, loose liquid from top?


I'm not sure if I understand you correctly. If your reservoir is leaking, could you please send me pictures to [email protected] and specify the products you are using? That'll make it easier to help you directly, instead of via a forum.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Shipping: we do offer a letter shipping method for small parts. It's 7,50€ for international letters. It comes without tracking or insurance. Standard runtime is specified as 4-10 days.
> 
> Mwave: I am currently trying to persuade them to carry a wider range. If they get requests from customer side, as well, this might improve the availability in your region! So any support is appreciated


Thanks for the reply Jakob.

About the international letter shipping option, how do you select that? I don't recall seeing it as an option during checkout. Are you also able to tell me what kind of SMD LEDs are used on those strips? (e.g. SMD5050)

I have tried to request more of your range from Mwave but they didn't seem to want to hear about it. They were very firm on "this is what we have, at this stage we don't plan on bringing in any more". Unfortunately in Australia none of the online PC stores seem to be interested in stocking much high end enthusiast watercooling gear, it would be great if we had a Performance PC's over here so we don't have to keep ordering everything from across the globe.


----------



## Vlada011

Heatkiller reservoir have great mechanism for opening top of reservoir to put liquid.
But for my taste Multiport Top is better option and I like more to put liquid through G 1/4 port.
And to be honest look great with two Allen key Plugs.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> About the international letter shipping option, how do you select that? I don't recall seeing it as an option during checkout. Are you also able to tell me what kind of SMD LEDs are used on those strips? (e.g. SMD5050)


 The option comes up during the checkout process.
Yes, the strips are SMD5050.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, the strips are SMD5050.


Interesting, must be on a custom PCB/strip yeah? The Heatkiller strip says it's 8mm wide and I can't find any other SMD5050 strips that are less than 10mm wide.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Zammin said:


> Interesting, must be on a custom PCB/strip yeah? The Heatkiller strip says it's 8mm wide and I can't find any other SMD5050 strips that are less than 10mm wide.


Well. We spent quite some time sourcing it, that's for sure


----------



## SHNS0

I'd also like to come in on the LED's for the Heatkiller tube: could we get a light diffuser option for it?

I tried some bare LED strips in it and they're pretty harsh unless you run pastel coolant.


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well. We spent quite some time sourcing it, that's for sure


If I order the RGB strip I figure I should probably grab something else as well since I don't order from the store often, so I was thinking of grabbing a set of red 200mm reservoir struts, would the international letter option be suitable for those and an RGB LED strip? I understand it's not tracked or insured but as long as it fits and the letter has some kind of packing that would be okay with me.


----------



## lb_felipe

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, the Ryzen 3000 block has the highest priority right now, and will be released in summer.


Why would *HEATKILLER IV PRO (AMD processor)* not work properly with Ryzen 3000?


----------



## pmc25

lb_felipe said:


> Why would *HEATKILLER IV PRO (AMD processor)* not work properly with Ryzen 3000?


It will work 'properly'. But Zen 2 Ryzen isn't the same layout as Zen and Zen+ Ryzen. It has a discrete I/O die, and the 12 (and 16?) core version have 2 x 8 core dies.

The 12 & 16 core versions will also pull more power when OC'd.

For optimal cooling, changes would be needed.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

SHNS0 said:


> I'd also like to come in on the LED's for the Heatkiller tube: could we get a light diffuser option for it?
> 
> I tried some bare LED strips in it and they're pretty harsh unless you run pastel coolant.


Currently not planned, sorry ://




Zammin said:


> If I order the RGB strip I figure I should probably grab something else as well since I don't order from the store often, so I was thinking of grabbing a set of red 200mm reservoir struts, would the international letter option be suitable for those and an RGB LED strip? I understand it's not tracked or insured but as long as it fits and the letter has some kind of packing that would be okay with me.


Yes, that would work.




lb_felipe said:


> Why would *HEATKILLER IV PRO (AMD processor)* not work properly with Ryzen 3000?


Well, it will work properly. But seeing the off-center placement of the chiplets on the Ryzen 3000 family, we think that there is room for optimization, and that a dedicated block will be able to perform even better!


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> Does anyone have any idea where I can get maybe a generic RGB strip the same size as the Heatkiller size S one for the tube reservoirs? They are incredibly hard to find in stock outside of the Watercool web store, and the official store wants 39.99 Euro to ship a 9.20 Euro LED strip....
> 
> My understanding is that it's just an 8mm wide RGB strip, but looking on ebay I only seem to be able to find 10mm wide ones which I don't think will fit in the strut of the reservoir.
> 
> I'm in Australia but I don't mind buying from overseas if they don't want double the cost of the item or more for delivery. We actually have one store here in Aus that sell Watercool stuff (Mwave) but they only sell a very small range (pretty much just one radiator, three reservoirs, one or two last gen GPU blocks and a few CPU blocks) but they don't sell these and they refuse to order in anything from Watercool other than the tiny range they currently have even though they claim to be our Australian Watercool reseller....


If you run a pastel or any other coolant that's not transparant, you can just use transparant double side tape and attach a normal ledstrip to the glass. That's how I did it and the effect is great on my pastel blue coolant. 
And because the pastel is so dense, you can't see the individual leds. Just a glow coming from the center of the tube


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, that would work.


Cheers, I'll probably place the order this weekend. 



broodro0ster said:


> If you run a pastel or any other coolant that's not transparant, you can just use transparant double side tape and attach a normal ledstrip to the glass. That's how I did it and the effect is great on my pastel blue coolant.
> And because the pastel is so dense, you can't see the individual leds. Just a glow coming from the center of the tube


That's a pretty cool idea actually haha. However this is for my main system which is running transparent red so you'll definitely see it through the glass.


----------



## broodro0ster

Zammin said:


> That's a pretty cool idea actually haha. However this is for my main system which is running transparent red so you'll definitely see it through the glass.


It won't look pretty with transparant fluids, so the Heatkiller leds will be better


----------



## GAN77

I grab my parcel) :good:


----------



## Vlada011

On Caseking almost everything from W.Heatkiller is out of stock and unknown when will become available.
High Flow as well. Actually store in USA are better supplied.
Caseking have office in few other East Europe countries and then it's easier for us who are not part of EU to buy them.
Most important for me is to get 
-Heatkiller D5 100, 
-Multitop port, 
-Tube Stand for 120mm fan 
-Decoupling kit.

That and Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360 are my first change on loop.

I will buy Barrow Aluminum Bracket for GPU and yesterday I ordered CoolerMaster ATX 24pin 90 degree Adapter for motherboard.
That will improve cable management.


----------



## GAN77

Good day, *Watercool-Jakob*!

LED Stripes Size M RGB compatible with HEATKILLER® Tube 150 D5?


----------



## Shawnb99

So I finally ordered the back plate for the my Heatkiller IV Pro. I also ordered the direct die kit from Rockit Cool so I'm wondering do i need to modify, augment, or change out any part of the mounting hardware for direct die cooling?


----------



## Section31

Ignore this message. Something is wrong with Android and responding on this site.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Good day, *Watercool-Jakob*!
> 
> LED Stripes Size M RGB compatible with HEATKILLER® Tube 150 D5?


No, for the tube 150 you need the Size S. Please check the compatibility list in the article description.




Shawnb99 said:


> So I finally ordered the back plate for the my Heatkiller IV Pro. I also ordered the direct die kit from Rockit Cool so I'm wondering do i need to modify, augment, or change out any part of the mounting hardware for direct die cooling?


We don't know that kit, so we can't comment on it. You would have to ask Rockit Cool if their kit takes height changes into account and to what extent.


----------



## Shawnb99

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, for the tube 150 you need the Size S. Please check the compatibility list in the article description.
> 
> 
> 
> We don't know that kit, so we can't comment on it. You would have to ask Rockit Cool if their kit takes height changes into account and to what extent.




K thanks will do


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*

PAX2019 no longer working?


----------



## Zammin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Shipping: we do offer a letter shipping method for small parts. It's 7,50€ for international letters. It comes without tracking or insurance. Standard runtime is specified as 4-10 days.


Hi Jakob, it's been 2 weeks since I placed my small order (just an LED strip and some red reservoir struts) and I haven't received a shipping notification. My order number is 13595. I know for water blocks and other primary components that there is a wait time on manufacturing before the items are sent out, but I figured with these being essentially accessories/spare parts they would be in stock. The website said they were both in stock anyway. Any idea when it might be sent out? Thanks.


----------



## Section31

Just curious if there's any estimated time frame for the new am4 cpu waterblock coming out. I ask because I am debating if i need to order the adapter for existing Heatkiller CPU IV till you guys come out with the new block.


----------



## skingun

I would guess at least a month after launch, based on when other new blocks from Watercool have been made available for general sale.


----------



## Section31

OCN needs to fix the posting from mobile browser bug. I will wait and see then. Worse thing is if I'm in urgent need, I will order the Adapter to hold me over.


----------



## Vlada011

Guys from Watercool should prepare everything to make waterblocks for AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT.
Demand will be huge from people who didn't upgrade 4-5 years because they get almost GTX1080Ti performance for 450$.

That mean for single RTX2080Ti custom as Lightning, Matrix, K|NGP|N you can buy RX 5700 XT Crossfire to outperform best NVIDIA model RTX Titan to cooldown Navi with liquid, (two GPU waterblocks) and full custom loop, two radiators Black Ice Nemesis 360, Heatkiller D5 Tube, CPU block Heatkiller IV Pro, Bitspower fittings, tubing, coolant, everything you need for cooling whole computer for price of premium RTX2080Ti.
With so good option simply no excuse as single card is better, GeForce... PhysX, RT,... no excuse, 
Crossfire faster then RTX2080Ti plus complete watercooling of premium parts for price of custom RTX2080Ti because they ask over 1500$ for them.

Demand will be huge and cards will need waterblocks, it's 230W power consumption.
Picture will be sharpest ever seen. I believe customers will be surprised with picture quality of new Radeon.
And off course everything will look much better with Watercool block. Now no Heatkiller for Radeon VII, that's maybe and good decision because NAVI will push out Radeon VII. But if no Watercool blocks immediately you think on some other graphic cards compatible with their block.


----------



## Zammin

Vlada011 said:


> Guys from Watercool should prepare everything to make waterblocks for AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT.
> Demand will be huge from people who didn't upgrade 4-5 years because they get almost GTX1080Ti performance for 450$.
> 
> That mean for single RTX2080Ti custom as Lightning, Matrix, K|NGP|N you can buy RX 5700 XT Crossfire to outperform best NVIDIA model RTX Titan to cooldown Navi with liquid, (two GPU waterblocks) and full custom loop, two radiators Black Ice Nemesis 360, Heatkiller D5 Tube, CPU block Heatkiller IV Pro, Bitspower fittings, tubing, coolant, everything you need for cooling whole computer for price of premium RTX2080Ti.
> With so good option simply no excuse as single card is better, GeForce... PhysX, RT,... no excuse,
> Crossfire faster then RTX2080Ti plus complete watercooling of premium parts for price of custom RTX2080Ti because they ask over 1500$ for them.
> 
> Demand will be huge and cards will need waterblocks, it's 230W power consumption.
> Picture will be sharpest ever seen. I believe customers will be surprised with picture quality of new Radeon.
> And off course everything will look much better with Watercool block. Now no Heatkiller for Radeon VII, that's maybe and good decision because NAVI will push out Radeon VII. But if no Watercool blocks immediately you think on some other graphic cards compatible with their block.


This is kinda off topic but I wanted to give my opinion on this, IMO if we are talking about dual GPUs in games here, Crossfire/SLI doesn't often scale as well as you'd want it to. There are only a few titles I know of with really good dual GPU scaling, and quite often in other titles crossfire/SLI is not supported at all. I had dual R9 280X's back in 2013-2016 and I'd say around 40% of the games I played didn't support dual GPU at all, and many of the games that did support it required tweaking of config files to get it to work. Often when it was working, even though the frame rate was higher, the frame time consistency suffered. It was a real headache. Since then I've just purchased the best single GPU I could afford and I think that's what most people currently do. 

I guess what I'm saying is that two RX 5700 XT's doesn't equal 200% performance scaling (outside of maybe one of two titles and maybe 3Dmark), and when you buy dual GPUs you need to be happy with the performance of one of them because there will be titles that don't support dual GPUs at all.

I think if someone wants 2080Ti performance, they'll buy a 2080Ti. I don't personally think two RX 5700XT's is going to be a better option, you might get similar performance levels in one or two titles but most of the time it probably won't scale as well as you'd want it to.

We'll have to wait for third party benchmarks but it's looking like the 5700 XT is closer to GTX 1080 performance rather than 1080Ti. From what AMD have said the RX 5700 XT sits below the Radeon VII in the stack, and on it's own seems to be a good competitor to the RTX 2070 and AMD have some cool features to go with it, but I don't think there's going to be a whole tonne of people buying two and expecting to match or exceed a 2080Ti.

I'd be interested to see how much demand there is for waterblocks on the RX 5700 XT, when considering for the price of a 5700 XT and a really nice waterblock like Heatkiller you could probably justify buying a faster graphics card instead.

Those are my thoughts anyway.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Hi all together!

I got my Heatkiller IV PRO and the PCI bracket for my case ,looks good so far .
Just testing for any leakage.
Seems to be good for 2 hours right now.

Really need new fittings 16pcs. and 2male+2female *highflow* quickrelease connectors, is koolance the way to go or CPC ?
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50701
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50700
https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Products/Liquid-Cooling

Which fittings for 13/10mm Tubing would you guys recommend in general ?

Are the barrow ones a good deal ?!

My last ones were EKWB from 2012 or so and meanwhile they have slight corrosions .

The MORA 420 PRO i used with my old rig will come into life back soon,i think cleaning it would be a good thing, how do you guys manage that ?

Cheers fuchs


----------



## bullydog

Quick thanks to Jakob for all email response and prior arrangements to help me obtain my Heatkiller Asus Strix RTX 2080ti waterblock.


----------



## pmc25

Vlada011 said:


> Guys from Watercool should prepare everything to make waterblocks for AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT.
> Demand will be huge from people who didn't upgrade 4-5 years because they get almost GTX1080Ti performance for 450$.
> 
> That mean for single RTX2080Ti custom as Lightning, Matrix, K|NGP|N you can buy RX 5700 XT Crossfire to outperform best NVIDIA model RTX Titan to cooldown Navi with liquid, (two GPU waterblocks) and full custom loop, two radiators Black Ice Nemesis 360, Heatkiller D5 Tube, CPU block Heatkiller IV Pro, Bitspower fittings, tubing, coolant, everything you need for cooling whole computer for price of premium RTX2080Ti.
> With so good option simply no excuse as single card is better, GeForce... PhysX, RT,... no excuse,
> Crossfire faster then RTX2080Ti plus complete watercooling of premium parts for price of custom RTX2080Ti because they ask over 1500$ for them.
> 
> Demand will be huge and cards will need waterblocks, it's 230W power consumption.
> Picture will be sharpest ever seen. I believe customers will be surprised with picture quality of new Radeon.
> And off course everything will look much better with Watercool block. Now no Heatkiller for Radeon VII, that's maybe and good decision because NAVI will push out Radeon VII. But if no Watercool blocks immediately you think on some other graphic cards compatible with their block.


I doubt Crossfire will be supported in games on the 5xxx series. There haven't been any new DX11 CF profiles in years now. DX12 / Vulkan, the only game I can think of that supports it decently is DOOM 2016. Ashes of The Singularity does to some extent.

Also, yes there will be considerable demand for Navi. But it's doubtful there will be considerable supply, at least initially. There are a finite number of wafers, and Navi, Vega 20, Ryzen 3xxx, and new EPYC & TR4 series will all be on the same TSMC 7nm. EPYC / TR4 / Ryzen 3950 are all ready, but they can't launch them if they don't have enough silicon.

5700XT is unlikely to come near RVII performance. Big Navi launch is likely well behind the priority of everything else mentioned above, so depending on how much time it takes to secure the wafer volume they need, it may take some while ... and enterprise versions of Vega 20 certainly aren't going anywhere.

Anyway, yeah, it'd be good to get updated Ryzen blocks in a timely fashion, 5700 & RVII blocks .. but I'm not holding out much hope at the moment for product launches except the revised Ryzen HKIV. They're years behind schedule on the radiators, let alone other stuff.


----------



## skingun

I've always used koolance qdc. Never had any problems. QDC4 usually. If need panel mount or G1/4 threaded then QDC3.


----------



## Vlada011

I believe NAVI will be 20% slower then Radeon VII.
Gaming market really need that GPU with less then 500$ price.
To bad because it's not performance of GTX1080Ti and RTX2080.

AMD will sell NAVI at least 2 years. They always have intention to keep graphic cards longer before new replace then NVIDIA.
OK I have GTX1080Ti significantly overclocked by ASUS, H20 Hybrid liquid cooler saved me money and I will not upgrade on full cover block because nice temperatures. Anyway Watercool no available waterblock for my GPU model. 

I'm glad because these insane prices on market if no money for new I could use mine second hand GTX1080Ti launched 2016 same period as Radeon VII and NAVI.
GTX1080Ti will not become obsolete before NAVI for sure, and that's long time for 3 years old GPU.
If AMD now launch card little slower then GTX1080Ti that mean Pascal will be good long time.

If someone decide to offer full cover waterblock for RX 5700 XT for 100$... excellent.
Could sell double of waterblocks then for expensive GeForce. 
One Acetal - Nickel and other Acrylic for people who want colorful coolant are enough.

I believe market interest for GTX1070, GTX1070Ti, RTX2060, even RTX2070 who don't want to pay fortune for GPU will be interest for NAVI.
Long time AMD advertise them and expect good selling. I would not be surprised to price go up to 550$ soon after launch date if supplies are really low.

AMD often strugle with low supplies and with previous models.
Special because miners clean shelves fast.


----------



## socialite2dot0

Is it confirmed that there will be no waterblock for Radeon VII from Watercool? Please say it isn't so as I planned to use all Heatkiller blocks...


----------



## napych

I need R VII block (or two) for my next build too.
Not interested in 5700-whatever.


----------



## Barefooter

I finally finished my Big Red "Devastator" build. It has four Heatkiller blocks which are just magnificent! 















































There's more pictures here *Final Daytime shots* and here *Final Nighttime shots*


.


----------



## 414347

Barefooter said:


> I finally finished my Big Red "Devastator" build. It has four Heatkiller blocks which are just magnificent!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's more pictures here *Final Daytime shots* and here *Final Nighttime shots*.


Beautiful layout and match of colours. Heatkiller is definitely superb component


----------



## Zammin

Zammin said:


> Hi Jakob, it's been 2 weeks since I placed my small order (just an LED strip and some red reservoir struts) and I haven't received a shipping notification. My order number is 13595. I know for water blocks and other primary components that there is a wait time on manufacturing before the items are sent out, but I figured with these being essentially accessories/spare parts they would be in stock. The website said they were both in stock anyway. Any idea when it might be sent out? Thanks.


Hey just to update this, the package arrived today which is good. I never got a shipping notification though.


----------



## 414347

I have used Heatkiller for a very long time and it has been always exceptional experience with both, product and their service but Christian and even Rico world be the one dealing with but lately I've notice many, very unhappy and rightfully so frustrated users with their shipping process and supports responsiveness as it seem to become delayed trend these days.

I hope Heatkiller isn't slowly vanishing, they make some of the best products, It would be sad


----------



## SlvrDragon50

NewUser16 said:


> I have used Heatkiller for a very long time and it has been always exceptional experience with both, product and their service but Christian and even Rico world be the one dealing with but lately I've notice many, very unhappy and rightfully so frustrated users with their shipping process and supports responsiveness as it seem to become delayed trend these days.
> 
> I hope Heatkiller isn't slowly vanishing, they make some of the best products, It would be sad


I feel like that's been the norm with Heatkiller. I've only ever been able to get contact through Jakob which is usually fast but depends on trade shows and whatnot.


----------



## 414347

SlvrDragon50 said:


> I feel like that's been the norm with Heatkiller. I've only ever been able to get contact through Jakob which is usually fast but depends on trade shows and whatnot.


Heatkiller have always made the most exotic and very good performing and I think the longest lasting components.

I still have some close to 10 years old blocks that are in use in my older system and they performing exceptionally well and e.g. nickel plating still looks like the day one I got it.

Having said that I also see some changes in support, not like it used to be. There are fairly long delays in responsiveness and orders processing and this have been going on for year or two now.

Jacob was always easy to reach I would email him one day and receive response either the next day or day after but now people waiting week or even longer so It's a bit concerning.


----------



## Zammin

NewUser16 said:


> Heatkiller have always made the most exotic and very good performing and I think the longest lasting components.
> 
> I still have some close to 10 years old blocks that are in use in my older system and they performing exceptionally well and e.g. nickel plating still looks like the day one I got it.
> 
> Having said that I also see some changes in support, not like it used to be. There are fairly long delays in responsiveness and orders processing and this have been going on for year or two now.
> 
> Jacob was always easy to reach I would email him one day and receive response either the next day or day after but now people waiting week or even longer so It's a bit concerning.


If I had to guess I'd say it's because demand for their products has probably gone up quite a lot (based on having a large backlog of orders since around the time the 2080Ti blocks launched), and going off what Jakob said a while back I think they are a fairly small team of staff (apologies if I remembered incorrectly but was it something like 12 people all up?). Hopefully they will be able to increase their number of staff to help with some of the issues. It's good that we have an active staff member here on OCN that we can still work with for the time being.


----------



## 414347

Zammin said:


> If I had to guess I'd say it's because demand for their products has probably gone up quite a lot (based on having a large backlog of orders since around the time the 2080Ti blocks launched), and going off what Jakob said a while back I think they are a fairly small team of staff (apologies if I remembered incorrectly but was it something like 12 people all up?). Hopefully they will be able to increase their number of staff to help with some of the issues. It's good that we have an active staff member here on OCN that we can still work with for the time being.


It crossed my mind as well. Imagine, enthusiasts from all over the world want a piece of Heatkiller I can see that become overwhelming for a small company, lets hope that that's all is to it


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> *Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> PAX2019 no longer working?


Nope, was valid through April and May, ran out with June. 




Zammin said:


> Hi Jakob, it's been 2 weeks since I placed my small order (just an LED strip and some red reservoir struts) and I haven't received a shipping notification. My order number is 13595. I know for water blocks and other primary components that there is a wait time on manufacturing before the items are sent out, but I figured with these being essentially accessories/spare parts they would be in stock. The website said they were both in stock anyway. Any idea when it might be sent out? Thanks.





Zammin said:


> Hey just to update this, the package arrived today which is good. I never got a shipping notification though.


You selected letter shipping. As I said, this comes without tracking. Unfortunately, the "your order was shipped" notification is tied to the FedEx tracking system, so letter shipping doesn't receive an automated "was shipped" notification. That is a flaw in our procedure, thanks for bringing this to my attention. I'll see if we can find a workaround for that!




Section31 said:


> Just curious if there's any estimated time frame for the new am4 cpu waterblock coming out. I ask because I am debating if i need to order the adapter for existing Heatkiller CPU IV till you guys come out with the new block.


No official ETA. The initial design of the block looks good, the simulations look good. Depending on when we get a sample and how the real world physical tests perform, it COULD be released within July. Please do NOT understand this as an official ETA - this is pure speculation on my part! The official statement is still: In summer 2019.







Vlada011 said:


> Guys from Watercool should prepare everything to make waterblocks for AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT.
> Demand will be huge from people who didn't upgrade 4-5 years because they get almost GTX1080Ti performance for 450$.


We definitely plan to support the 5700 cards!





Wuest3nFuchs said:


> The MORA 420 PRO i used with my old rig will come into life back soon,i think cleaning it would be a good thing, how do you guys manage that ?
> 
> Cheers fuchs


This highly depends on what fluids you had in the system before. I would always start with hot tap water (simply connect the shower hose to a G1/4 port and give it a THOROUGH flush. Then, let some distilled water sit in the rad for a day. Pour, collect the liquid, and check how it looks. Any discoloration? Any debris? If so, start using cleaning agents.




socialite2dot0 said:


> Is it confirmed that there will be no waterblock for Radeon VII from Watercool? Please say it isn't so as I planned to use all Heatkiller blocks...


Yes, we will NOT make a block for the Radeon VII. It's a bummer, the card is pretty interesting. But we had too many other projects on our plate and couldn't make a block in a reasonable timeframe, and releasing a block this summer will not be economically sane.




Barefooter said:


> I finally finished my Big Red "Devastator" build. It has four Heatkiller blocks which are just magnificent!
> 
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> There's more pictures here *Final Daytime shots* and here *Final Nighttime shots*
> 
> 
> .


Thanks for sharing! Your build looks awesome, congratulations on the great work!




NewUser16 said:


> I have used Heatkiller for a very long time and it has been always exceptional experience with both, product and their service but Christian and even Rico world be the one dealing with but lately I've notice many, very unhappy and rightfully so frustrated users with their shipping process and supports responsiveness as it seem to become delayed trend these days.
> 
> I hope Heatkiller isn't slowly vanishing, they make some of the best products, It would be sad





Zammin said:


> If I had to guess I'd say it's because demand for their products has probably gone up quite a lot (based on having a large backlog of orders since around the time the 2080Ti blocks launched), and going off what Jakob said a while back I think they are a fairly small team of staff (apologies if I remembered incorrectly but was it something like 12 people all up?). Hopefully they will be able to increase their number of staff to help with some of the issues. It's good that we have an active staff member here on OCN that we can still work with for the time being.



That's really all there is to it: Demand for our products skyrocketed from 2017 to now. We were just not able to grow the production capacities in the same insane speed as the demand exploded. That obviously leads to shortages, which leads to frustration. But yes, our company is more healthy, active and productive than we ever were in the 19 years of our history! We are continuously expanding production capacities, buying additional machines, hiring more staff, to get the supply side of things up to speed with the demand again.


We will expand our factory by 300m² (~3300 sq ft) by end of summer. We had to move a car port last week to make room for the additional construction work:


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Watercool-Jakob said:


> This highly depends on what fluids you had in the system before. I would always start with hot tap water (simply connect the shower hose to a G1/4 port and give it a THOROUGH flush. Then, let some distilled water sit in the rad for a day. Pour, collect the liquid, and check how it looks. Any discoloration? Any debris? If so, start using cleaning agents.
> 
> That's really all there is to it: Demand for our products skyrocketed from 2017 to now. We were just not able to grow the production capacities in the same insane speed as the demand exploded. That obviously leads to shortages, which leads to frustration. But yes, our company is more healthy, active and productive than we ever were in the 19 years of our history! We are continuously expanding production capacities, buying additional machines, hiring more staff, to get the supply side of things up to speed with the demand again.
> 
> We will expand our factory by 300m² (~3300 sq ft) by end of summer. We had to move a car port last week to make room for the additional construction work:


Geiler Kran!

Thanks for the respond.
Nice you guy's do a great job , keep growing !
I already cleaned it and the MORA 420 PRO is more than ok ,no corrosion or other remnants .
But when i looked into other 5 radiators yesterday, which were from phobya they had a massive corrosion .
I had this also with ekwb + alphacool parts. will post fotos later .

Maybe the coolant or the additive from phobya made this mess !
All 5 radiators into trashbin ! :thumbsdow

You guys also make better products from the ground up in my opinion .
And thank you for the nice flush guide !

WATER:specool: ForTheWin

Used the alphacool coolants and phobya additive for more than 10 years now, which i 'll ditch them right now.

What does watercool recommend for a coolant ?

I have read that watercool likes destillated water with a tip of citric acid .
I think i read that on your Website but cant find it anymore .


----------



## 414347

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Geiler Kran!
> 
> Thanks for the respond.
> Nice you guy's do a great job , keep growing !
> I already cleaned it and the MORA 420 PRO is more than ok ,no corrosion or other remnants .
> But when i looked into other 5 radiators yesterday, which were from phobya they had a massive corrosion .
> I had this also with ekwb + alphacool parts. will post fotos later .
> 
> Maybe the coolant or the additive from phobya made this mess !
> All 5 radiators into trashbin ! :thumbsdow
> 
> You guys also make better products from the ground up in my opinion .
> And thank you for the nice flush guide !
> 
> WATER:specool: ForTheWin
> 
> Used the alphacool coolants and phobya additive for more than 10 years now, which i 'll ditch them right now.
> 
> What does watercool recommend for a coolant ?
> 
> I have read that watercool likes destillated water with a tip of citric acid .
> I think i read that on your Website but cant find it anymore .


If you want the best protection for your blocks and radiators including aluminum, get Mayhems Biocide+ & inhibitor+, it works absolutely magic. 

2 tiny bottles will last you for at least a year and you will get the best protection, it works great with all mixed metals and will keep your system spotless clean.

What's great about Inhibitor+ & Biocide+ is that If you don't use dyes you won't have to change liquid for up to 3-4 years, just keep adding drop of each every 3 months and if you do use dyes, change liquid annually and you all set.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

NewUser16 said:


> If you want the best protection for your blocks and radiators including aluminum, get Mayhems Biocide+ & inhibitor+, it works absolutely magic.
> 
> 
> 
> 2 tiny bottles will last you for at least a year and you will get the best protection, it works great with all mixed metals and will keep your system spotless clean.
> 
> 
> 
> What's great about Inhibitor+ & Biocide+ is that If you don't use dyes you won't have to change liquid for up to 3-4 years, just keep adding drop of each every 3 months and if you do use dyes, change liquid annually and you all set.


Thank you for the info and nice Post!Never used any dyes or colorations in my watercoolingsystem.

These two here ?









Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


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## 414347

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Thank you for the info and nice Post!Never used any dyes or colorations in my watercoolingsystem.
> 
> These two here ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk



Yes. I have used them for over 2 years now with distilled water only. I actually have never used colour liquids as well, this is the best thing you can get. I used Mayhems Extreme for years but these 2 are something else, you wont regret it.


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## Wuest3nFuchs

NewUser16 said:


> Yes. I have used them for over 2 years now with distilled water only. I actually have never used colour liquids as well, this is the best thing you can get. I used Mayhems Extreme for years but these 2 are something else, you wont regret it.


thx man!

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


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## 414347

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> thx man!
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


FYI.

If you decide to get that, there has been some confusion among users on how to use it, some people put too much and it's not necessary, this stuff is very strong.

Initially, use 2-3 drops of each per 1 L of distilled water I use 3 drops due to amount of blocs I have, but try not to exceed that and then, every 3 months after that add 1-2 drops of each.

I say 1-2 drops depending on your loops size. If your loop(s) holds more than 1.5 L use 2 drops, less then that 1 drop its plenty and keep on adding the same way every 3 months and you can go on for 3-4 years.


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## Wuest3nFuchs

NewUser16 said:


> FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> If you decide to get that, there has been some confusion among users on how to use it, some people put too much and it's not necessary, this stuff is very strong.
> 
> 
> 
> Initially, use 2-3 drops of each per 1 L of distilled water I use 3 drops due to amount of blocs I have, but try not to exceed that and then, every 3 months after that add 1-2 drops of each.
> 
> 
> 
> I say 1-2 drops depending on your loops size. If your loop(s) holds more than 1.5 L use 2 drops, less then that 1 drop its plenty and keep on adding the same way every 3 months and you can go on for 3-4 years.


sounds very good man ,thank you for the nice information !i'll order them!

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


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## LiquidHaus

Excited to be getting some new/different Heatkiller products for my Ryzen 3000 endeavors!

Can't decide which block to get though, the Hardwareluxx edition or the OG nickel/acrylic!


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## isabirov

@Watercool-Jakob, Hi Jakob. Any hints on if existing fullcovers for 2080 will be compatible with 2080 Super? Thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

isabirov said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* , Hi Jakob. Any hints on if existing fullcovers for 2080 will be compatible with 2080 Super? Thanks.


 Obviously I can't make a final official statement, as the NDA is still valid for ~2 weeks, but we expect the 2080 Super to be compatible to our 2080 waterblocks, yes.


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## Wuest3nFuchs

@Watercool-Jakob

If i remember correctly on your Website: watercool likes destillated water with a tip of citric acid ? Cheers

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


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## socialite2dot0

@Watercool-Jakob just wondering if the new Heatkiller blocks for the Ryzen 3000 series will have the same design language as the current generation or do you guys intend to change it? Hopefully the former, because I really like the minimalistic look of your products and would hate for you guys to completely change it up, i.e. the EK CSQ disaster, lol.


----------



## Vlada011

Do you like my plan for redesign my watercooling loop for next platform.
That will look so cool inside my Lian Li PC-O11 WXC original version not Dynamic... you can't imagine.
GPU block is not on picture because I will not change GTX1080Ti Poseidon significant time and after new platform, but GPU will be most likely GeForce but must be compatible with Watercool GPU block, reference if need, probably EVGA because they support installation waterblock.
Example now RTX2080 Super with price 699$ fit in my budget, but I didn't know that price will drop and changing GPU on almost same performance would be bad.










These parts are not choose for show room RIG. They are carefully selected to last long and to be cleaned and reinstalled several times and still to look like new.
That mean performance, durability instead China production, RGB, hard tubing and suspicious coolant made for short time and blocks who easy corrode. 
But after 2-3 years my parts will look same when acrylic pars become foggy, nickel from China corrode, and colorful coolant cause to people buy everything from start again for new RIG.


----------



## Shawnb99

Vlada011 said:


> Do you like my plan for redesign my watercooling loop for next platform.
> 
> That will look so cool inside my Lian Li PC-O11 WXC original version not Dynamic... you can't imagine.
> 
> GPU block is not on picture because I will not change GTX1080Ti Poseidon significant time and after new platform, but GPU will be most likely GeForce but must be compatible with Watercool GPU block, reference if need, probably EVGA because they support installation waterblock.
> 
> Example now RTX2080 Super with price 699$ fit in my budget, but I didn't know that price will drop and changing GPU on almost same performance would be bad.




Add a flow meter and water temp sensor.


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## Vlada011

Flow Meter and Temp Sensor.
Maybe from Aqua Computer if I recognize small and not complicate tool both in one tool, not separate. 
But I will add Koolance Inline Filter one on inlet to pump and one on inlet to CPU block, pump will work on 4 instead of 3 because of that but never mind.
Except if someone explain me that flow need to be much faster to compensate obstruction.
There is two filter, one is for bigger part and one real filter cost 24$ and I afraid could cause obstruction.

My dream to have Bitspower fitting complete will end because they are to expensive, and something tell me that these Koolance fittings in Chrome color could stay same after long use if you tight them with wet microfiber cloth.
I'm not maniac for lowest temperatures, because I always use safe OC, that mean processors never go to max stable clock and graphic cards in most case I keep fabric OC frequency or OC reference card to same frequency of some fabric overclocked models. Never to the last MHz. And because of that temperatures even 55-56C and one 360mm radiator for CPU and GPU are fine for me. I not insist to invest 200 more for second radiator and 3 more fans to keep temps on 45-46C. I only want to stay below 60C because performance and better stability.


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## Shawnb99

Run Mayhems blitz kit part 1 and 2 and you shouldn’t need the filters.

I’m using the Aquacomputer high flow pump and inline temp sensors and they work very well


----------



## 414347

Vlada011 said:


> My dream to have Bitspower fitting complete will end because they are to expensive, and something tell me that these Koolance fittings in Chrome color could stay same after long use if you tight them with wet microfiber cloth.


BP fittings are very expansive but worth every penny. Not only they are safest fittings but they are lifetime investment, purchase once and they will last pretty much for as long as you own your WC system.


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## Section31

Vlada011 said:


> Flow Meter and Temp Sensor.
> Maybe from Aqua Computer if I recognize small and not complicate tool both in one tool, not separate.
> But I will add Koolance Inline Filter one on inlet to pump and one on inlet to CPU block, pump will work on 4 instead of 3 because of that but never mind.
> Except if someone explain me that flow need to be much faster to compensate obstruction.
> There is two filter, one is for bigger part and one real filter cost 24$ and I afraid could cause obstruction.
> 
> My dream to have Bitspower fitting complete will end because they are to expensive, and something tell me that these Koolance fittings in Chrome color could stay same after long use if you tight them with wet microfiber cloth.
> I'm not maniac for lowest temperatures, because I always use safe OC, that mean processors never go to max stable clock and graphic cards in most case I keep fabric OC frequency or OC reference card to same frequency of some fabric overclocked models. Never to the last MHz. And because of that temperatures even 55-56C and one 360mm radiator for CPU and GPU are fine for me. I not insist to invest 200 more for second radiator and 3 more fans to keep temps on 45-46C. I only want to stay below 60C because performance and better stability.


Koolance are only good for there QDC. It depends on how many fittings you need. The individual cost difference between barrows and bitspower is like 2-3USD. It only makes significant difference when you need a lot. The biggest difference is with the angled compression fittings, angled adapters, ball valves and specialized multi g1/4 fittings (if they have it). If you don't require adapters or angled fittings, you can still go all bitspower. Check out the combo packages on amazon.com You can also look at bitspower premium, for some reason on amazon.com, they are cheap in package of four.

Aquacomputer sensors are quite big, can look at others or get Aquacomputer D5 Next Pump. The temperature sensor and virtual flow meter are combined in it. Just remember to use product aquacomputer uses as biocide/solution. I suspect its not compatible with mayhem dye.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Koolance are only good for there QDC. If its me, I would go barrows/barrowsch if you are not going bitspower. I would still use bitspower for some specialized fittings. Aquacomputer sensors are quite big, can look at others or get Aquacomputer D5 Next Pump. The temperature sensor and virtual flow meter are combined in it. Just remember to use product aquacomputer uses as biocide/solution. I suspect its not compatible with mayhem dye.




Be aware the Temp sensor in the pump is not close the water so not very accurate. Flow meter on the pump requires it to be calibrated by stopping all flow in your loop for 30 seconds.
I’d advise getting a simple inline one. 

All manufacturers want you to use their own fluid, you should be ok using Mayhems just make you use the Blitz kit first and be aware that dye stains over time.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Be aware the Temp sensor in the pump is not close the water so not very accurate. Flow meter on the pump requires it to be calibrated by stopping all flow in your loop for 30 seconds.
> I’d advise getting a simple inline one.
> 
> All manufacturers want you to use their own fluid, you should be ok using Mayhems just make you use the Blitz kit first and be aware that dye stains over time.


Thanks Shawnb99, I was not going to buy another bitspower mini ball valve just to calibrate the flow meter. I already have three of the royal blue variants.

I was going to put in my barrows flow valve back into service once I do my 3900X upgrade.


----------



## Vlada011

Temp sensors are not priority for me and flow meters to be honest.
If I could save 50$ on them OK.

These Koolance fittings are series made for Hard and Soft Tubings, same type. 
And I believe they are as other fittings.
I need 10 straight fittings, 2x 45 angled, 2x 90 angled, 2x Male to Male Rotary, X Spliter and Ball Valve.
That's everything I need and Bitspower cost 200 euro.


----------



## isabirov

Vlada011 said:


> Temp sensors are not priority for me and flow meters to be honest.
> If I could save 50$ on them OK.
> 
> These Koolance fittings are series made for Hard and Soft Tubings, same type.
> And I believe they are as other fittings.
> I need 10 straight fittings, 2x 45 angled, 2x 90 angled, 2x Male to Male Rotary, X Spliter and Ball Valve.
> That's everything I need and Bitspower cost 200 euro.


Get Barrow fittings from Aliexpress. They are same but much cheaper. Or you can purchase Barrow fittings from Watercool.


----------



## Vlada011

Caseking have Koolance 13/10mm but in black color. I'm not sure... But Koolance black color and fonts on them and Heatkiller tube would look cool together. Only Chrome are easier for cleaning and scratches are less visible.

They could look in combo with Heatkiller Tube as well, price is 5 euro.
I will rather them then Barrow.


----------



## Section31

Vlada011 said:


> Temp sensors are not priority for me and flow meters to be honest.
> If I could save 50$ on them OK.
> 
> These Koolance fittings are series made for Hard and Soft Tubings, same type.
> And I believe they are as other fittings.
> I need 10 straight fittings, 2x 45 angled, 2x 90 angled, 2x Male to Male Rotary, X Spliter and Ball Valve.
> That's everything I need and Bitspower cost 200 euro.


Barrows does not have 2x45 and 2x90 and maybe no X Splitter. You have to buy an g1/4 adapter and regular straight fitting. Have you checked out bitspower own site, you can order directly from them rather than your local supplier. The BP Ball Valve is expensive that's for sure.


----------



## Zammin

Section31 said:


> Barrows does not have 2x45 and 2x90 and maybe no X Splitter.


What? Yes they do, they make just about every type of fitting you can think of. Check out their website www.barrowint.com they're all there under products>fittings. The 2x45 and 180 degree rotaries are under the 360 rotary section. The splitters come in 3 way, 4 way, 5 way.


----------



## Vlada011

Section31 said:


> Barrows does not have 2x45 and 2x90 and maybe no X Splitter. You have to buy an g1/4 adapter and regular straight fitting. Have you checked out bitspower own site, you can order directly from them rather than your local supplier. The BP Ball Valve is expensive that's for sure.


You didn't understand me well, I didn't explain properly.
Everything I need is here... That's all set I need included 2 reserve for second radiator.


----------



## Section31

In the end, every brand works about the same. The true best for you is your decision.


----------



## Barefooter

Section31 said:


> In the end, every brand works about the same. The true best for you is your decision.


I completely disagree with that! Every brand is not the same.




NewUser16 said:


> BP fittings are very expansive but worth every penny. Not only they are safest fittings but they are lifetime investment, purchase once and they will last pretty much for as long as you own your WC system.


My opinion is to listen to this wise advice!

The amount of money you would save on the average build using Barrow fittings over Bitspower is chump change compared with what you spend on the hardware!

I bought two Barrow shut off valves just for my drain tubes because they were cheap, they are only used when draining the system, and they don't even cut off the flow completely 

You get what you pay for. Risking your hardware to save a few bucks just isn't worth it imo.

.


----------



## Section31

Barefooter said:


> I completely disagree with that! Every brand is not the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My opinion is to listen to this wise advice!
> 
> The amount of money you would save on the average build using Barrow fittings over Bitspower is chump change compared with what you spend on the hardware!
> 
> I bought two Barrow shut off valves just for my drain tubes because they were cheap, they are only used when draining the system, and they don't even cut off the flow completely
> 
> You get what you pay for. Risking your hardware to save a few bucks just isn't worth it imo.
> 
> .


I actually had that happen to one of my friends barrows ball valves. Another friend of mine has an bp mini ball valve that doesn't completely shut. There's bit of luck involved, remember each brand will have items that should not pass QC. Some more than others. If you have unlimited or high budget, you don't cut corners. My own experience, I have encountered BP soft compression fittings/male-male fittings that are so tight that I ended up using an vice grip to unscrew the fitting, which stripped off the paint. I ended up ordering new ones when I did future upgrades and just giving the bad ones to my friends. End of the day, get what you think is best for your budget.

I have found if you are serious about bitspower stuff, there site has the most selection. I was looking for pink hard tubing compression fittings from there aqua line of products and the only place I could order it was BP own site. What scared me off was the shipping to North America and the person who wanted it could live with my existing bp fittings. I would consider ordering though them next time I go back to Hong Kong.


----------



## 414347

Section31 said:


> Another friend of mine has an bp mini ball valve that doesn't completely shut.



FYI.

This is just for your future reference, this might help whomever uses BP mini ball valve.

There were few people that didn't realize that BP Mini Valve has a quite a bit of resistance before you get to the end (95%) of closing the valve. 

The valve feels that is totally closed but if you put more force and turn the handle further, it will actually snap close, you will fill very noticeable lack of the valve and after that it will be more forgiving so you will still feel the snap but in saddle way, otherwise the valve is not totally closed even thou wont leak.

BP uses very tight tolerance of their fittings, that's why they are considered to be the safest


----------



## Zammin

Barefooter said:


> I completely disagree with that! Every brand is not the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My opinion is to listen to this wise advice!
> 
> The amount of money you would save on the average build using Barrow fittings over Bitspower is chump change compared with what you spend on the hardware!
> 
> I bought two Barrow shut off valves just for my drain tubes because they were cheap, they are only used when draining the system, and they don't even cut off the flow completely
> 
> You get what you pay for. Risking your hardware to save a few bucks just isn't worth it imo.
> 
> .


Depending on where you live, the difference in cost for BP vs other brands can be pretty big. Here in Australia they aren't sold locally, so we have to order from overseas. Fairly basic fittings such as a standard 90 degree single rotary adapter from BP cost around $20 AUD each before postage. The same thing from Barrow is around $5 AUD each before postage through Ali Express. For us the difference ranges between $10-15 AUD per fitting for most types of fittings when comparing the two brands. When you add up the amount of fittings needed to do a full custom loop, you end up saving a lot.

While I'm not claiming Barrow fittings to be equal or better than BP in terms of quality, I'm honestly super impressed with their fittings and tubing after I did a build with them recently. I had been using EK fittings previously because that was pretty much all that was available locally other than Thermaltake, and I'd take Barrow over EK next time in a heartbeat. Much nicer than EK, even the packaging. Maybe not as good as BP, but for us it's nowhere near as expensive as BP, while still being better quality than EK (our main local option). They also don't have their brand logo printed on the sides of their angled adapters and splitters, which some will prefer.

Sorry to hear your shut off valve isn't working right, I would be frustrated as well. The drain valve was actually the one fitting in the build I mentioned that I didn't go with Barrow for, I grabbed an XSPC one that was on sale locally as it was cheaper and the same colour (black). All the Barrow fittings I used in that build have been holding up great though, all the rotaries were nice and tight and the compression fittings have a good tight seal on the tubing. Haven't had any leaks or issues.

I guess the tl;dr of what I'm trying to say is, I know Bitspower are top notch, but Barrow do make some good fittings, and the amount of money you save by going with them or any other brand over Bitspower can vary wildly depending on where you are in the world. Watercool also sell them on their store, which I don't think they would do if they didn't approve of them.


----------



## Barefooter

Section31 said:


> I actually had that happen to one of my friends barrows ball valves. Another friend of mine has an bp mini ball valve that doesn't completely shut. There's bit of luck involved, remember each brand will have items that should not pass QC. Some more than others. If you have unlimited or high budget, you don't cut corners. My own experience,* I have encountered BP soft compression fittings/male-male fittings that are so tight that I ended up using an vice grip to unscrew the fitting, which stripped off the paint.* I ended up ordering new ones when I did future upgrades and just giving the bad ones to my friends. End of the day, get what you think is best for your budget.
> 
> I have found if you are serious about bitspower stuff, there site has the most selection. I was looking for pink hard tubing compression fittings from there aqua line of products and the only place I could order it was BP own site. What scared me off was the shipping to North America and the person who wanted it could live with my existing bp fittings. I would consider ordering though them next time I go back to Hong Kong.


 One thing that I have found helpful with tight fittings is to soak them in a small container of distilled water for five to ten minutes, then take them out turn the rotary portion several times, then soak them again. This lubricates the inside o-ring and usually makes them turn easier and come off easier. If you have never tried that, give it a go next time.





NewUser16 said:


> FYI.
> 
> This is just for your future reference, this might help whomever uses BP mini ball valve.
> 
> There were few people that didn't realize that BP Mini Valve has a quite a bit of resistance before you get to the end (95%) of closing the valve.
> 
> The valve feels that is totally closed but if you put more force and turn the handle further, it will actually snap close, you will fill very noticeable lack of the valve and after that it will be more forgiving so you will still feel the snap but in saddle way, otherwise the valve is not totally closed even thou wont leak.
> 
> BP uses very tight tolerance of their fittings, that's why they are considered to be the safest


I wish the BP Mini Valves came with a metal handle! I've broken the plastic handle on several of those things then had to use a crescent wrench to open and close it. The Barrow ones I bought do have a metal handle, but don't completely close no matter how hard I turn the valve.






Zammin said:


> Depending on where you live, the difference in cost for BP vs other brands can be pretty big. Here in Australia they aren't sold locally, so we have to order from overseas. Fairly basic fittings such as a standard 90 degree single rotary adapter from BP cost around $20 AUD each before postage. The same thing from Barrow is around $5 AUD each before postage through Ali Express. For us the difference ranges between $10-15 AUD per fitting for most types of fittings when comparing the two brands. When you add up the amount of fittings needed to do a full custom loop, you end up saving a lot.
> 
> While I'm not claiming Barrow fittings to be equal or better than BP in terms of quality, I'm honestly super impressed with their fittings and tubing after I did a build with them recently. I had been using EK fittings previously because that was pretty much all that was available locally other than Thermaltake, and I'd take Barrow over EK next time in a heartbeat. Much nicer than EK, even the packaging. Maybe not as good as BP, but for us it's nowhere near as expensive as BP, while still being better quality than EK (our main local option). *They also don't have their brand logo printed on the sides of their angled adapters and splitters, which some will prefer.*
> 
> Sorry to hear your shut off valve isn't working right, I would be frustrated as well. The drain valve was actually the one fitting in the build I mentioned that I didn't go with Barrow for, I grabbed an XSPC one that was on sale locally as it was cheaper and the same colour (black). All the Barrow fittings I used in that build have been holding up great though, all the rotaries were nice and tight and the compression fittings have a good tight seal on the tubing. Haven't had any leaks or issues.
> 
> I guess the tl;dr of what I'm trying to say is, I know Bitspower are top notch, but Barrow do make some good fittings, and the amount of money you save by going with them or any other brand over Bitspower can vary wildly depending on where you are in the world. Watercool also sell them on their store, which I don't think they would do if they didn't approve of them.


Wow I did not realize the Bits Power fittings were so expensive there. I do wish they did not have the dang logos on all the fittings, it would give a much cleaner look without the logos.

Since this is veering "off topic" here I'll just say that the Bits Power fittings are some of the best fittings you can buy... like Heatkiller waterblocks are some of the best waterblocks you can use :thumb:

.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep I suggested soaking fittings before assembly and you'd think I talked bad about someones (fill in blank) from the responses


----------



## NewType88

I have 7 barrow ball valves and they all work fine for me.


----------



## pmc25

IMO once the higher binned parts are out, and presumably process improvements / MB BIOS / chipset drivers come too, there will be some relatively significant OC gains to be had on Zen 2.

From the look of temperatures, the layout, and the known density, Ryzen will absolutely need a distinct block / fin layout to suit its needs best. We know from Jakob that WaterCool are working on that ....

However, I expect direct die cooling to yield significant results, at least with regard to temperature. Any plans to facilitate that with frames to add on to the blocks for Ryzen (& TR4) 3xxx?

Despite the very low power draw (lower than Ryzen 2xxx and much lower than Intel), those cores are furnaces.


----------



## LiquidHaus

pmc25 said:


> IMO once the higher binned parts are out, and presumably process improvements / MB BIOS / chipset drivers come too, there will be some relatively significant OC gains to be had on Zen 2.
> 
> From the look of temperatures, the layout, and the known density, Ryzen will absolutely need a distinct block / fin layout to suit its needs best. We know from Jakob that WaterCool are working on that ....


I will agree that after a few months, we will see some slightly higher overclocking potential for the 3000 series.

But I don't think I agree with needing a new fin layout for the 3000 series.

If that was the case, you really don't think this is sufficient enough?










for this?










The fin array being too narrow and you've got Ryzen die sitting passed the array? Since they're mounted vertically?

I just edited them to create the scenario that you are describing:










Is that what you're saying? The fin array is actually too small for Ryzen 3000?

I wish I had dimensions for everything to confirm.


----------



## pmc25

lifeisshort117 said:


> I will agree that after a few months, we will see some slightly higher overclocking potential for the 3000 series.
> 
> But I don't think I agree with needing a new fin layout for the 3000 series.
> 
> If that was the case, you really don't think this is sufficient enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fin array being too narrow and you've got Ryzen die sitting passed the array? Since they're mounted vertically?
> 
> I just edited them to create the scenario that you are describing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that what you're saying? The fin array is actually too small for Ryzen 3000?
> 
> I wish I had dimensions for everything to confirm.


It's not about the total fin area or coverage. It's that it's all off centre. The chiplets are going to output probably 95% of the heat on a 3950X and not much less on a 3900X, and they're both crammed into the top side. The IO die won't need much cooling.

For a block to minimise temperatures on those chiplets, it will need a lot of cooling capacity directly above them. I don't think any existing designs really meet this requirement. I'd imagine for maximum performance they'll probably have to do something like Nexalus are doing with Caseking / OCUK, dense fins of varying heights to maximise cooling capacity on that top side, and some kind of new flow arrangement to funnel the water over that side first. Also, I'd assume they'd use a thinner copper base than usual, as the heat won't be evenly spread or centralised on the package's heatsink (or direct with direct die) and they'll want minimum thickness on the hot side.

I don't think it requires a revolution, but it would likely benefit from a different approach. I'm sure EK are working on something ..... they wouldn't miss a launch like this to sell new kit - after the debacle with their original TR4 product, and the completely unconventional layout of this chip, I suspect even they are taking their time with this one, hence why we've yet to see an announcement.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> IMO once the higher binned parts are out, and presumably process improvements / MB BIOS / chipset drivers come too, there will be some relatively significant OC gains to be had on Zen 2.
> 
> From the look of temperatures, the layout, and the known density, Ryzen will absolutely need a distinct block / fin layout to suit its needs best. We know from Jakob that WaterCool are working on that ....
> 
> However, I expect direct die cooling to yield significant results, at least with regard to temperature. Any plans to facilitate that with frames to add on to the blocks for Ryzen (& TR4) 3xxx?
> 
> Despite the very low power draw (lower than Ryzen 2xxx and much lower than Intel), those cores are furnaces.



We are currently testing block layouts on Ryzen 3000 series CPUs, to verify how much of a difference different flow patterns over the chiplets actually make. The standard Heatkiller IV is definitely powerful enough to cool a Ryzen 3000 - but maybe, we can optimize it even more, so that it'll be even cooler!






Apart from that, we are also planning to support some X570 motherboards with dedicated VRM blocks, and are planning an universalchipset block. Please fill out this quick survey to help us decide which motherboards exactly are the most relevant to support!


----------



## Bart

Survey completed Jakob! Now get your boys to modernize the next HeatKiller CPU blocks with quality lighting and more color selection. Brighten up that line up son, it's looking a bit dull!  Take a cue from the awesomeness that is the new Heatkiller reservoirs. Those things are gorgeous!


----------



## chas1723

Are heatkiller planning on coming out with a block for the 5700xt?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

chas1723 said:


> Are heatkiller planning on coming out with a block for the 5700xt?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes, we will definitely release a block for this card!


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> survey


Not the easy kind of question, but.. that's me, isn't it 
Given your usual workload and tight time schedule, you guys certain releasing VRM blocks is wise? For this platform specifically mind you;

- High end X570 mobos are mostly OK if not overkill (Gigabyte's for example.. 51C highest i've counted, prof probe, at a 26C controlled room ambient, with no air directed to it at all.. says a lot).
- Low end X550 mobos could .. possibly .. benefit from a block, but i) they don't really need it, ii) some are way too space-limited and iii) all of them target a different audience altogether, the one decidedly not willing/capable of paying for custom water cooling. I cannot see how one would skimp 100 or 150 euro on a mobo but go out of their way and spend a whooping 500-1500euro on cooling alone.

What kind of a niche are you hoping to get here and at what a dividend? Am honestly not seeing it :S


----------



## lb_felipe

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are currently testing block layouts on Ryzen 3000 series CPUs, to verify how much of a difference different flow patterns over the chiplets actually make. The standard Heatkiller IV is definitely powerful enough to cool a Ryzen 3000 - but maybe, we can optimize it even more, so that it'll be even cooler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apart from that, we are also planning to support some X570 motherboards with dedicated VRM blocks, and are planning an universalchipset block. Please fill out this quick survey to help us decide which motherboards exactly are the most relevant to support!


Nice. The PCH water block to get rid of the freak active cooler that there is is the my biggest hope.


----------



## Bart

lb_felipe said:


> Nice. The PCH water block to get rid of the freak active cooler that there is is the my biggest hope.


Mine too. My chipset fan is whining already and that's only in the BIOS, no OS yet.


----------



## pmc25

Re: VRM cooling ... the VRMs on most of the higher end boards are so massively over-specced that they barely need heatsinks, or don't at all. Let alone water cooling them. IMO this is wasted effort for WaterCool. Just take a look at some of Buildzoid's breakdowns. You'd have to be going huge voltages at sub ambient clocks to need anything more than stock heatsinks on virtually all the higher end boards.

What would be nice is bespoke passive heatsinks to replace the fan for the PCH. Again, water cooling totally unnecessary.


----------



## lb_felipe

pmc25 said:


> Re: VRM cooling ... the VRMs on most of the higher end boards are so massively over-specced that they barely need heatsinks, or don't at all. Let alone water cooling them. IMO this is wasted effort for WaterCool. Just take a look at some of Buildzoid's breakdowns. You'd have to be going huge voltages at sub ambient clocks to need anything more than stock heatsinks on virtually all the higher end boards.
> 
> What would be nice is bespoke passive heatsinks to replace the fan for the PCH. Again, water cooling totally unnecessary.


 You're right. I doubt Watercool will even be going to run that route (no-watercooling), but it'd be nice if they do it, like EK has made SSD passive cooling. Please, Watercool, make passive heatsinks for some best X570 motherboards.


----------



## Halo_003

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, we will definitely release a block for this card!


Hey Jakob, I know you guys are working through huge demand right now but do you have any rough estimates on when it may release?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Aenra said:


> Not the easy kind of question, but.. that's me, isn't it
> Given your usual workload and tight time schedule, you guys certain releasing VRM blocks is wise? For this platform specifically mind you;
> 
> - High end X570 mobos are mostly OK if not overkill (Gigabyte's for example.. 51C highest i've counted, prof probe, at a 26C controlled room ambient, with no air directed to it at all.. says a lot).
> - Low end X550 mobos could .. possibly .. benefit from a block, but i) they don't really need it, ii) some are way too space-limited and iii) all of them target a different audience altogether, the one decidedly not willing/capable of paying for custom water cooling. I cannot see how one would skimp 100 or 150 euro on a mobo but go out of their way and spend a whooping 500-1500euro on cooling alone.
> 
> What kind of a niche are you hoping to get here and at what a dividend? Am honestly not seeing it :S





lb_felipe said:


> Nice. The PCH water block to get rid of the freak active cooler that there is is the my biggest hope.





pmc25 said:


> Re: VRM cooling ... the VRMs on most of the higher end boards are so massively over-specced that they barely need heatsinks, or don't at all. Let alone water cooling them. IMO this is wasted effort for WaterCool. Just take a look at some of Buildzoid's breakdowns. You'd have to be going huge voltages at sub ambient clocks to need anything more than stock heatsinks on virtually all the higher end boards.
> 
> What would be nice is bespoke passive heatsinks to replace the fan for the PCH. Again, water cooling totally unnecessary.


Thank you guys for the feedback, it is highly valuable for us! I didn't anticipate this direction. Maybe, I should have added an "don't want watercooling on the VRMs" as an option. 




Halo_003 said:


> Hey Jakob, I know you guys are working through huge demand right now but do you have any rough estimates on when it may release?


Rough estimate: Q3/2019.


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thank you guys for the feedback, it is highly valuable for us! I didn't anticipate this direction. Maybe, I should have added an "don't want watercooling on the VRMs" as an option


I thank you for taking both the good and the bad into account, and with a similarly positive disposition at that!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Well I want separate VRM and PCH blocks on my Aorus Xtreme because it's just that...XTREME.

I have yet to boot the board up yet as I am waiting for my 3900X to come in on Thursday (wont even be in town when it arrives) but as always I am planning out a loop design for the build.

Being that the Xtreme has a connected heat pipe to the VRM heatsink, It will be tough for me to slap a waterblock on the PCH only. I would have to cut the heatpipe off the VRM heatsinks and that will SUCK since they need to stay connected. 










So for that board, it's essentially needed for both a VRM and PCH block. 

There won't be many sales for the Xtreme as there will be for the lower end boards (AMD customers statistically spend less than Intel customers) and so because of that, there won't be many $700 board owners running around out there, and that's for all manufacturers that made a $700 board. 

It is indeed time for the lower end boards to get some love, that I will not disagree with. But at the same time I secretly hope some blocks get made for the Aorus Xtreme lol.


----------



## pmc25

LiquidHaus said:


> Well I want separate VRM and PCH blocks on my Aorus Xtreme because it's just that...XTREME.
> 
> I have yet to boot the board up yet as I am waiting for my 3900X to come in on Thursday (wont even be in town when it arrives) but as always I am planning out a loop design for the build.
> 
> Being that the Xtreme has a connected heat pipe to the VRM heatsink, It will be tough for me to slap a waterblock on the PCH only. I would have to cut the heatpipe off the VRM heatsinks and that will SUCK since they need to stay connected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So for that board, it's essentially needed for both a VRM and PCH block.
> 
> There won't be many sales for the Xtreme as there will be for the lower end boards (AMD customers statistically spend less than Intel customers) and so because of that, there won't be many $700 board owners running around out there, and that's for all manufacturers that made a $700 board.
> 
> It is indeed time for the lower end boards to get some love, that I will not disagree with. But at the same time I secretly hope some blocks get made for the Aorus Xtreme lol.


All you'll achieve is completely messing up the look of the board, clutter everywhere, and reducing flow in the rest of your loop, where it is needed.

The VRM is so overbuilt on that board that you'd barely see a temperature reduction by water cooling it when running huge voltages on LN2. It's completely pointless.

Watercooling the PCH ... it's just facepalm. You already have a perfect solution on that board. Heatpipe to the VRM heatsink.

All the IR camera photos I've seen of the boards above $200 so far show the the heatsinks barely getting warm at 4.3-4.4 all core OC, up to 1.45V, doing Cinebench or Prime 95. i.e. they're under or around 30C.

I'll state again. Water cooling is COMPLETELY useless for VRM if you have a decent X570 board.


----------



## GAN77

pmc25 said:


> I'll state again. Water cooling is COMPLETELY useless for VRM if you have a decent X570 board.




It is your opinion. As they say - the taste and color of comrades is not. Someone DDR4 cools, this is also not necessary.


----------



## pmc25

GAN77 said:


> It is your opinion. As they say - the taste and color of comrades is not. Someone DDR4 cools, this is also not necessary.


It's not an opinion, it's a fact. You can't and won't improve performance or cooling with a water block. All you will do is diminish flow rate, thereby reducing performance around the rest of the loop.

Cooling DDR4, whilst most people consider it not worth the effort, will potentially improve performance, temperatures & stability, and allow you to either go higher clocks, or more likely, lower timings.

The VRMs - to state it yet again - on the higher end X570 boards, are massively overbuilt. They don't get hot. Simple as. On the really overbuilt ones, the existing heatsinks don't really serve any function either, other than protecting them from damage.

This isn't X299 / Z390, which have a combination of potentially insane power draw / amperages, and weak VRMs.


----------



## GAN77

pmc25 said:


> The VRMs - to state it yet again - on the higher end X570 boards, are massively overbuilt. .



I may agree with you.
But not all boards will be such as the example below.

_GIGABYTE X570 Aorus Master

The VRM is in a 12+2 phase configuration, and it's a true 12 phase that doesn't utilize doublers
Both the CPU VCC and SoC VRMs use International Rectifier 50A IR3556 PowIRstages, and are controlled by the Infineon XDPE132G5C digital PWM controller.
Read more: https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/9060/gigabyte-x570-aorus-master-amd-motherboard-review/index3.html_


----------



## Section31

I bought the AM4 conversion Kit and am wondering what is the nut that is used to hold the mounting screws (on backside of motherboard). Not sure if it was suppose to be included or do I have to find it among the parts from the regular IV block kit (intel). Worse I look among my other cpu blocks to see if i can find something that can perform the same role.

Disregards, apparently the cpu backplate feel off when i was removing the screws to install the waterblock.


----------



## LiquidHaus

pmc25 said:


> All you'll achieve is completely messing up the look of the board, clutter everywhere, and reducing flow in the rest of your loop, where it is needed.
> 
> The VRM is so overbuilt on that board that you'd barely see a temperature reduction by water cooling it when running huge voltages on LN2. It's completely pointless.
> 
> Watercooling the PCH ... it's just facepalm. You already have a perfect solution on that board. Heatpipe to the VRM heatsink.
> 
> All the IR camera photos I've seen of the boards above $200 so far show the the heatsinks barely getting warm at 4.3-4.4 all core OC, up to 1.45V, doing Cinebench or Prime 95. i.e. they're under or around 30C.
> 
> I'll state again. Water cooling is COMPLETELY useless for VRM if you have a decent X570 board.


Yeah, I hear you for sure. And if that’s the case, then so be it. I’ve always got a kick out of the aesthetic mainly. I really don’t care about flow rates being diminished however. I have more than enough headroom for the additional restriction. Not many real reviewers received that board to do independent thermal testing. So seeing real ones would be very intriguing. Because yes on paper, it seems amazing. 

One issue I’ll have to solve is getting some moving air across the VRM heatsink since because I normally don’t have moving air passing over the motherboard.


----------



## Section31

The bigger concern is the PCH Fan more than VRM. I will say heatkiller CPU block is very well built though. I got a look inside when i was installing the conversion kit to AM4. Will change to the new AM4 block when its out for sure.


----------



## pmc25

GAN77 said:


> I may agree with you.
> But not all boards will be such as the example below.
> 
> _GIGABYTE X570 Aorus Master
> 
> The VRM is in a 12+2 phase configuration, and it's a true 12 phase that doesn't utilize doublers
> Both the CPU VCC and SoC VRMs use International Rectifier 50A IR3556 PowIRstages, and are controlled by the Infineon XDPE132G5C digital PWM controller.
> Read more: https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/9060/gigabyte-x570-aorus-master-amd-motherboard-review/index3.html_


To state yet again ... ALL the higher end boards have overbuilt VRMs. All of them. The water cooling companies aren't going to produce anything for lower end boards, and the market wouldn't want them anyway.

The only board I can see it being of any use for is the ASUS ITX board, the expensive one. ROG Impact? It has a big actively cooled VRM heatsink integrated into the area around the rear I/O. It looks hideous, and will almost certainly be noisy if it's running. But then this board is aimed squarely at the sub ambient (namely LN2) crowd. So they won't care about noise and won't water cool the VRM. That said, there may be a small number of people who use it in ultra compact builds where air flow is non existent and the VRMs will heat up due to high case temp ... there it may make sense.

One issue I’ll have to solve is getting some moving air across the VRM heatsink since because I normally don’t have moving air passing over the motherboard.



LiquidHaus said:


> One issue I’ll have to solve is getting some moving air across the VRM heatsink since because I normally don’t have moving air passing over the motherboard.


Unlikely it'll be needed. As I said, the VRMs don't even need the heatsinks. 

You may have noticed that a bunch of the LN2 videos don't show fans directed at the VRMs on the open benches on X570. There's a reason. Even at silly voltages and power draw, the high spec VRMs handle it pretty easily.

Rear exhaust fan should be more than enough.


----------



## LiquidHaus

pmc25 said:


> To state yet again ...


Lol people can read dude. No need to state something “yet again” within two or three posts from one another. 

Here’s the thing, people will do what they want regardless if they need it or not. You might just have to come to terms with that.


----------



## sharyn

Hi guys,
Is there a clearance issue with Asus Maximus X hero and Heatkiller IV Pro. When I tried to mount CPU block in a proper way I could not get proper seal between CPU and block. Upper half of cpu was clean.
When I tried "goofy" mount it worked, but temps are baaad 
Mount is without backplate. 
Any suggestions guys?


----------



## dansi

Hey Jakob, why does your http://shop.watercool.de show as not secure on chrome?

I am scared to be phished?


----------



## LiquidHaus

sharyn said:


> Hi guys,
> Is there a clearance issue with Asus Maximus X hero and Heatkiller IV Pro. When I tried to mount CPU block in a proper way I could not get proper seal between CPU and block. Upper half of cpu was clean.
> When I tried "goofy" mount it worked, but temps are baaad /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> Mount is without backplate.
> Any suggestions guys?


Sounds like you had an air bubble in your block maybe? Are you saying the block was only filling halfway when the pump was running? If so, then that’s the case. Most blocks do that one the first fill.


----------



## ThrashZone

sharyn said:


> Hi guys,
> Is there a clearance issue with Asus Maximus X hero and Heatkiller IV Pro. When I tried to mount CPU block in a proper way I could not get proper seal between CPU and block. Upper half of cpu was clean.
> When I tried "goofy" mount it worked, but temps are baaad
> Mount is without backplate.
> Any suggestions guys?





LiquidHaus said:


> Sounds like you had an air bubble in your block maybe? Are you saying the block was only filling halfway when the pump was running? If so, then that’s the case. Most blocks do that one the first fill.


Hi,
No I believe he's saying the water block is not making full contact with the cpu thermal paste isn't spreading on top.


----------



## sharyn

Yeah, that's it. The lower part of CPU is properly covered with tpaste but the upper part is clean without paste.


----------



## ThrashZone

sharyn said:


> Yeah, that's it. The lower part of CPU is properly covered with tpaste but the upper part is clean without paste.


Hi,
Have you thought to make a straight edge out of a small ruler and set it on top of the chip see which cap/... the water block is touching ?
Sounds like the vrm cooler is a tad too close about the only thing on top that might be in the way.


----------



## pmc25

LiquidHaus said:


> Lol people can read dude. No need to state something “yet again” within two or three posts from one another.
> 
> Here’s the thing, people will do what they want regardless if they need it or not. You might just have to come to terms with that.


Yet again. There is no market.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

sharyn said:


> Hi guys,
> Is there a clearance issue with Asus Maximus X hero and Heatkiller IV Pro. When I tried to mount CPU block in a proper way I could not get proper seal between CPU and block. Upper half of cpu was clean.
> When I tried "goofy" mount it worked, but temps are baaad
> Mount is without backplate.
> Any suggestions guys?


We recommend the installation where the outlet port is straight above the inlet port. This orientation is always possible. On some 1151 boards, the 90° flipped orientation (both ports are horizontally next to each other) is incompatible. Can you please let me know if you tried the orientation that I just described as working ("regular" and "goofy" are completely arbitrary, unfortunately. I have seen both words describing all four mounting positions, depending on what the person feels SHOULD be normal ). 





dansi said:


> Hey Jakob, why does your http://shop.watercool.de show as not secure on chrome?
> 
> I am scared to be phished?


There are some pictures and graphics used in the shop that are hosted on non-secure third-party servers. The shop itself is secure, though.
As soon as you get to the page where you enter data, it is completely secure, btw. So in a total worst-case scenario, an attacker would be able to see which product you selected - but would be blocked out from your data. We are working on fixing this situation!




pmc25 said:


> Yet again. There is no market.


Thank you for your input. The data of our survey tends to disagree strongly. I also receive numerous requests for VRM blocks for X570 via forum posts and DMs. I totally get your point, it might not be the most necessary thing to cool, from a technical standpoint. Nevertheless, people still want it. So, yes, there is a market.


----------



## dansi

Thanks jakob, hope you fix it soon.

Regards cpu block oreintation, what about 90 casing? The outlet port should always be on top, so in this case, goofy will be defualt?

What happens if forced to put the 2 ports in horizontal to each other? I guess not enough water will flow to the top end and reduce perf?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

dansi said:


> Thanks jakob, hope you fix it soon.
> 
> Regards cpu block oreintation, what about 90 casing? The outlet port should always be on top, so in this case, goofy will be defualt?
> 
> What happens if forced to put the 2 ports in horizontal to each other? I guess not enough water will flow to the top end and reduce perf?


I don't understand what you mean by "90 casing". As I said, please do not use the word "goofy", as it is not a clear definition - I have seen this word describing all four mounting positions and can't have any idea to which you refer it.


As I said, on most sockets, all four mounting orientations are perfectly possible and will not make any performance difference (if you take margin of error of temp sensors into account). On some 1151 boards, there are capacitors so close to the socket that the mounting brackets collide with those in the ports-horizontally-position. If you would try to force the block into that position then, you would most likely damage the capacitors, essentially turning your motherboard into a brick.


----------



## dansi

Oh i mean with casing like silverstone rv02 where cpu socket is 'parallel' to ground. Thinking of getting your hk block for am4 mounting, which i think cannot be reoreintated since its rectangular?


----------



## Shawnb99

sharyn said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Is there a clearance issue with Asus Maximus X hero and Heatkiller IV Pro. When I tried to mount CPU block in a proper way I could not get proper seal between CPU and block. Upper half of cpu was clean.
> 
> When I tried "goofy" mount it worked, but temps are baaad
> 
> Mount is without backplate.
> 
> Any suggestions guys?




The XI Formula has the same issue. Wasn’t able to install it anyway but goofy or vertical.
Will see if the Apex is any different when it gets here
The capacitors get in the way otherwise.


----------



## dansi

So Jakob i see you guys will make a new ryzen3000 block? 
Not sure if i get a current Hk4p or wait for it, which is coming Jul if not Aug...enough time for 3950x i guess.

Will it also be compatible with intel mounting, just in case?


----------



## JedixJarf

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I don't understand what you mean by "90 casing". As I said, please do not use the word "goofy", as it is not a clear definition - I have seen this word describing all four mounting positions and can't have any idea to which you refer it.


I assume goofy would refer to the positioning as if you were skateboarding/surfing etc. 

Did you guys have any plans to release southbridge chipset blocks?(I got my answer a page back ) My x570 taichi fan sounds like a dying ddc pump.


----------



## JedixJarf

GAN77 said:


> It is your opinion. As they say - the taste and color of comrades is not. Someone DDR4 cools, this is also not necessary.


def not opinion. buildzoid himself stated you dont even need a vrm heatsink on that board due to the overbuilt vrms.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

dansi said:


> Oh i mean with casing like silverstone rv02 where cpu socket is 'parallel' to ground. Thinking of getting your hk block for am4 mounting, which i think cannot be reoreintated since its rectangular?


The orientiation of the AM4 blocks is defined by the mounting mechanism. They can, of course, be flipped 180°. 




dansi said:


> So Jakob i see you guys will make a new ryzen3000 block?
> Not sure if i get a current Hk4p or wait for it, which is coming Jul if not Aug...enough time for 3950x i guess.
> 
> Will it also be compatible with intel mounting, just in case?


We are currently expermenting with different designs to see IF Ryzen 3000 would actually benefit from a decentralised flow pattern. IF this yields any benefit, we will make the final call if we make separate Intel and AMD blocks, or if we can combine them in one product line. I'll let you know in this thread. 




JedixJarf said:


> Did you guys have any plans to release southbridge chipset blocks?(I got my answer a page back ) My x570 taichi fan sounds like a dying ddc pump.


Our current lineup of chipset blocks should already be compatible with your board. But yes, we also plan to redo the chipset blocks and release a new version in 2019.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thank you for your input. The data of our survey tends to disagree strongly. I also receive numerous requests for VRM blocks for X570 via forum posts and DMs. I totally get your point, it might not be the most necessary thing to cool, from a technical standpoint. Nevertheless, people still want it. So, yes, there is a market.


It's based on lack of knowledge though. Will they still want this 'cooling' when they realise that it's actually heating in a number of cases (because water temperature will be higher than VRM temp without water cooling)?


----------



## JedixJarf

pmc25 said:


> It's based on lack of knowledge though. Will they still want this 'cooling' when they realise that it's actually heating in a number of cases (because water temperature will be higher than VRM temp without water cooling)?


Yes, they will. You underestimate the people who spend $700 on an AM4 board, they just want the absolute "best" money can buy, even if that board won't OC your 3900x any higher than a $200 x570 board.


----------



## NewType88

I hope your new cpu blocks can be mounted with the in/out horizontal, like you can with intel. On the amd boards you can only go vertical with the ports.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey guys,

Who is the guy that made the CNC'd RGB ring/shroud for the Heatkiller IV Pro?

Can't seem to find it, any help would be great. Thanks!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

NewType88 said:


> I hope your new cpu blocks can be mounted with the in/out horizontal, like you can with intel. On the amd boards you can only go vertical with the ports.


Thanks for the suggestion! I'll put it on the list.




LiquidHaus said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Who is the guy that made the CNC'd RGB ring/shroud for the Heatkiller IV Pro?
> 
> Can't seem to find it, any help would be great. Thanks!


It's Martin from Customrigs.de. I can't remember his OCN nickname, but I'll connect you via facebook. He even offers a step for the part on his page.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It's Martin from Customrigs.de. I can't remember his OCN nickname, but I'll connect you via facebook. He even offers a step for the part on his page.


Thanks for the info Jakob! I knew it was someone I was familiar with! 

Check out Narada MkX


----------



## Barefooter

Very nice tubing! That one from the CPU block to the GPU is amazing :thumb:


----------



## chibi

^ I concur, very impressive multi-point bends! :thumb:


----------



## CustomRigsDe

i think you will **** it


----------



## Bart

chibi said:


> ^ I concur, very impressive multi-point bends! :thumb:


+2!!! Having only *just* completed my first two triple-bend tubes, this is *very* impressive to me. I bet this man built himself one heck of a bending jig setup!

EDIT: Heatkiller'ed everywhere but the RAM!


----------



## JedixJarf

CustomRigsDe said:


> i think you will **** it
> 
> https://youtu.be/3_YFIuOKq6o


Soooooooooooo legit. Sexy.


----------



## Section31

Amazing Setup. I love all heatkiller builds. I've been thinking in the future about doing custom water loop (GPU and CPU) in define meshify C. Just need an mini GPU with block so i can fit in heatkiller tube with d5 next and fan controller.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Does anyone here know if the RTX 2080 FE backplate is compatible with the Heatkiller block?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Barefooter said:


> Very nice tubing! That one from the CPU block to the GPU is amazing :thumb:





chibi said:


> ^ I concur, very impressive multi-point bends! :thumb:





Bart said:


> +2!!! Having only *just* completed my first two triple-bend tubes, this is *very* impressive to me. I bet this man built himself one heck of a bending jig setup!


Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words! In all honesty, I use only a 90 degree die (mandrel in the real world) to start my bends and then finish the rest by hand.


On another note, something I've been working on this past week!


















The initial idea and first design iteration came from CustomRigsDe.

After some thought however, it was clear to me to make some changes and also add some LiquidHaus flair!

This is an RGB LED shroud for the Heatkiller IV block. LEDs will be mounted on both sides with the face acting as a shroud so the diodes themselves aren't visible. Similar to how Watercool does their GPU blocks.

The LH will be lit up as light passes through the cutout. I'm super excited about this! Almost as much as I was for the block itself lol.


----------



## Bart

LiquidHaas: damn dude, you're making ME super excited too, since I DESPERATELY need something like this in my rig! The lack of LEDs in the CPU area is driving my OCD crazy, since my Aorus Master X570 board has the most USELESS LEDs EVER (dimmer than my dumbest ex-girlfriend, and that was pretty dim). Would you ever consider selling one of those things?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Bart said:


> LiquidHaas: damn dude, you're making ME super excited too, since I DESPERATELY need something like this in my rig! The lack of LEDs in the CPU area is driving my OCD crazy, since my Aorus Master X570 board has the most USELESS LEDs EVER (dimmer than my dumbest ex-girlfriend, and that was pretty dim). Would you ever consider selling one of those things?


I'd love to! But I wouldn't feel comfortable selling something based on someone else's design. I do plan on making a completely new version that is indeed my own design.

I've had many talks with Jakob about shrouds for their CPU and VRM blocks so that it's not just bare acrylic on the top. Obviously this is just my opinion, but they nailed it on the acrylic/black version of the TR4 Pro block for Threadripper. Acrylic face, with a CNC'd shroud that integrates RGB into the block in a super clean manner. 

It still bothers me at times when companies do full acrylic tops with no shroud around the outside, like EK. They recently added a one sided shroud on their GPU/CPU blocks that hides the RGB strip at the bottom of the block which is cool and all but I personally prefer full shrouds.

Again, just my opinion and I'm sure there are many people that like full acrylic blocks as is, but that's the point of modding right?!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Papa Emeritus said:


> Does anyone here know if the RTX 2080 FE backplate is compatible with the Heatkiller block?


No, it is not. You would have to drill all holes open to fit our screws through. Plus, the FE backplate does not provide any additional structural rigidity, it's mere cosmetic. So you most likely would have to apply a lot of force to the backplate to achieve sufficient mounting pressure on the thermal pads. 




LiquidHaus said:


> On another note, something I've been working on this past week!
> 
> The initial idea and first design iteration came from CustomRigsDe.
> 
> After some thought however, it was clear to me to make some changes and also add some LiquidHaus flair!
> 
> This is an RGB LED shroud for the Heatkiller IV block. LEDs will be mounted on both sides with the face acting as a shroud so the diodes themselves aren't visible. Similar to how Watercool does their GPU blocks.
> 
> The LH will be lit up as light passes through the cutout. I'm super excited about this! Almost as much as I was for the block itself lol.


I liked the original layout! I don't see any change initially, other than the lit logo (which is a cool idea!). Looking forward to seeing it in final form! 



A Heatkiller V (which will come eventually) will be a logic evolution of our design. So I wouldn't be surprised if it would have some version of the acrylic top/full around shroud that we implemented with the Pascal GPU blocks and then transferred to the Threadripper blocks. Me personally, I really like the design on the Turing block, as it is not as "closed down". We'll have to wait for what our designers come up with. But I can definitely confirm that there will be Heatkiller CPU blocks with LED integration somewhere in the future.


And since some smug smarta** will ask about an ETA: most likely before 2025. Yes, this is the best I can give you right now


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, it is not. You would have to drill all holes open to fit our screws through. Plus, the FE backplate does not provide any additional structural rigidity, it's mere cosmetic. So you most likely would have to apply a lot of force to the backplate to achieve sufficient mounting pressure on the thermal pads.



Thank's for the reply Jakob! I knew it wouldn't be particularly rigid or provide any decent cooling, i just wondered on pure cosmetic grounds.


----------



## Section31

Dont mean to rush you but curious if any updates on the development of the new ryzen 3000 cpu blocks.


----------



## JedixJarf

Section31 said:


> Dont mean to rush you but curious if any updates on the development of the new ryzen 3000 cpu blocks.


ETA: most likely before 2025


----------



## chas1723

Heatkiller products seem to be completely sold out at the normal places in the US. They have all told me that orders have not been coming in very often. It sounds like watercool is way behind in production but seems to have everything in stock on their own website. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## NewType88

chas1723 said:


> Heatkiller products seem to be completely sold out at the normal places in the US. They have all told me that orders have not been coming in very often. It sounds like watercool is way behind in production but seems to have everything in stock on their own website.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


They still have to make it, I think. In stock doesn't mean they pull it off the shelf. Less than a month to get my order though and I’ve ordered twice.


----------



## hellasinc

Has anyone ordered straight from there website ? I was going to order a reservoir and blocks but they haven't responded to any of my messages going on 3 weeks now


----------



## broodro0ster

hellasinc said:


> Has anyone ordered straight from there website ? I was going to order a reservoir and blocks but they haven't responded to any of my messages going on 3 weeks now


Yes. I ordered a reservoir a while ago and it was shipped after 1 week.


----------



## napych

The shop is slow. 1-2 weeks if you're lucky. Shop support is unresponsive.
I had much better experience ordering Heatkiller parts from PPCs (to Europe, heh).


----------



## hellasinc

napych said:


> The shop is slow. 1-2 weeks if you're lucky. Shop support is unresponsive.
> I had much better experience ordering Heatkiller parts from PPCs (to Europe, heh).


PPC ?


----------



## napych

hellasinc said:


> PPC ?



Performance-pcs.com


----------



## hellasinc

napych said:


> Performance-pcs.com


ah ok unfortunately im in Europe and the tax will be a lot if I order from them


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

chas1723 said:


> Heatkiller products seem to be completely sold out at the normal places in the US. They have all told me that orders have not been coming in very often. It sounds like watercool is way behind in production but seems to have everything in stock on their own website.


It is correct that the demand throughout the last year outgrew our production capabilities. We are constantly upgrading, buying new machines and hiring new staff to get the situation under control again.




NewType88 said:


> They still have to make it, I think. In stock doesn't mean they pull it off the shelf. Less than a month to get my order though and I’ve ordered twice.


This is correct. We are a manufacturer, not a retailer. So we sell directly out of the running production cycle, not from the shelf. If an item is marked as "available", this means that this item is part of the production cycle and can be shipped soon-ish. Hence the "7-14 days" warning. Depending on how much was produced in the last batch, how much was sold, and how soon the next batch is scheduled, we try to ship orders as fast as possible, and it CAN be shipped within 1-2 days. But it CAN also take 14 days. 





hellasinc said:


> Has anyone ordered straight from there website ? I was going to order a reservoir and blocks but they haven't responded to any of my messages going on 3 weeks now


This seems odd. Please send me a dm how you tried to contact us. Then I'll be able to help you better.


----------



## Shawnb99

In regards to the Mo-Ra3 420 pro do you guys recommend going with all 140mm fans or going with 200mm fans and what are the differences in cooling between the two?

Looking at possibly adding one to my system for even better results.


----------



## lb_felipe

What? Does Heatkiller Tube come with this base? Is it multiport?


----------



## NewType88

Shawnb99 said:


> In regards to the Mo-Ra3 420 pro do you guys recommend going with all 140mm fans or going with 200mm fans and what are the differences in cooling between the two?
> 
> Looking at possibly adding one to my system for even better results.


You may of been referencing my comment from another thread about the (4) 200mm fans vs (9) 140mm fans. I had a good read here. https://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f137/der-offizielle-mo-ra3-sammelthread-758692-33.html

Honestly, cant remember specifics, but I ended up ordering (4) nf-a20 fans ;p


----------



## BucketInABucket

Hey Jacob, do you still have the DDC Tank for sale? I can't seem to find it on the website. I'm thinking of switching to mITX and want to use that for the build.


----------



## GAN77

BucketInABucket said:


> Hey Jacob, do you still have the DDC Tank for sale? I can't seem to find it on the website. I'm thinking of switching to mITX and want to use that for the build.


http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30207
http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/31000


----------



## Alxz

I'm back again, now running a 3900x


----------



## BucketInABucket

GAN77 said:


> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30207
> http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/31000


Doesn't help. I need the DDC Tank specifically because of its size. I already have a Tube 150 and it's way too big for mITX. I meant this: https://watercool.de/en/ddc-tank-series


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Shawnb99 said:


> In regards to the Mo-Ra3 420 pro do you guys recommend going with all 140mm fans or going with 200mm fans and what are the differences in cooling between the two?
> 
> Looking at possibly adding one to my system for even better results.


As a rule of thumb: 4 200mm fans are quieter, 9 140mm fans will cool better. But the difference is around ~0.5 to 1K better water temp, so rather negligible, in my opinion. 





lb_felipe said:


> What? Does Heatkiller Tube come with this base? Is it multiport?


This is the standard base of the standard Tube. 




BucketInABucket said:


> Hey Jacob, do you still have the DDC Tank for sale? I can't seem to find it on the website. I'm thinking of switching to mITX and want to use that for the build.


Nope. The DDC tank was discontinued, sorry to say.




Alxz said:


> I'm back again, now running a 3900x


Still a beautiful system! Congrats!


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*

Any news about Water Blocks for Zen2?


----------



## BucketInABucket

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nope. The DDC tank was discontinued, sorry to say.


Noo! I guess I'll have to use a micro res from another company


----------



## Krisztias

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are currently testing block layouts on Ryzen 3000 series CPUs, to verify how much of a difference different flow patterns over the chiplets actually make. The standard Heatkiller IV is definitely powerful enough to cool a Ryzen 3000 - but maybe, we can optimize it even more, so that it'll be even cooler!
> 
> Apart from that, we are also planning to support some X570 motherboards with dedicated VRM blocks, and are planning an universalchipset block. Please fill out this quick survey to help us decide which motherboards exactly are the most relevant to support!


I have filled the survey too!  I would like too have an x570 chipset cooler for my C8HW 
I hope that the new Ryzen 3000 CPU cold plate will be compatible with the Heatkiller IV, because I recently buyed one to change my EK Velocity...


----------



## BucketInABucket

I'd love a cooling solution for x570 itx boards :3


----------



## Alxz

For either monoblock or universal VRM, I would pay double for a solution compatible with x570m pro4!

No other matx on production other than the biostar one which seems even worse


----------



## TheArkratos

BucketInABucket said:


> I'd love a cooling solution for x570 itx boards :3


Me too, I already have a waterblock for my gigabyte x570 itx build, but would happily replace it with a monoblock from heatkiller


----------



## shALKE

I'm planning a new build, but the shipping cart is over 400Euro, does anyone know of any promo codes for discounts on watercool.de ?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Finally pulled the trigger and bought a heatkiller 4 pro plexi/ nickle little pricey on amazon just under 100.us
Also picked up a copper base plate from modmymods too for it might get a chance to test it this weekend see what all the fuss is about 

Looks nice and all but the mount for 2066/... is pretty bad seeing all other blocks for these sockets have studs to help center the block and simple nuts... to hold it on :/
I used my Intel ek supremacy mount instead worked just fine just didn't have to tighten it so much because the HK is a little higher plane off the cpu than the ek block is by about 1/8".


----------



## springs113

Any coupon for shopping on the Heatkiller site? Looking to make a purchase.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Over 200. euro you get free dhl shipping about 30 euro off.


----------



## Vlada011

For next build I will use only CPU block except if Watercool build VRM block.
I don't overclock so much to experience problems because too much heat on VRM.
VRM is pretty resistant to heat. System could work easy with temps over 80C.
Active cooling is necessary only on Central Processor and Graphic processor.
Cooling of VRM section of graphic card is recommended but not absolutely necessary as well. 

Because of that Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper. and TR4 Nickel - Nickel + Copper with Heatkiller IV Acetal + Nickel for GPU are best options at the moment. Maybe if someone stretch system to the limits could check some Watercool VRM block is it compatible with his motherboard but I will be fine with CPU-GPU Block.

I hope we increased little demand for Watercool parts, I don't want to see people to make mistake as me.
Nothing worse then save money long time and make mistake with parts.
And off course I hope Watercool will continue with quality they used years.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

shALKE said:


> I'm planning a new build, but the shipping cart is over 400Euro, does anyone know of any promo codes for discounts on watercool.de ?





springs113 said:


> Any coupon for shopping on the Heatkiller site? Looking to make a purchase.


Sorry, we do not have any coupons or discounts active currently.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Sorry, we do not have any coupons or discounts active currently.


Hi,
Saw you do have discounts on shipping above 200 euros.


----------



## Ironsmack

Just got my order from Watercool today and as always, it just screams quality. Heck, even just the AM4 brackets for the Heatkiller IV is hefty AF.

Slowly but surely, my TR4 build is coming along. Thanks Jakob and the Watercool team!

Now, just patiently waiting on a block for the 5700/XT 😬🤔


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Saw you do have discounts on shipping above 200 euros.


Err. Well, yes, there is free shipping for orders above 200€ within Germany / above 400€ in Europe, North America and parts of Asia. I don't register that as "discount", because this is our standard setting and always on, not part of a promotion or campaign. But yes, you are right, I could and should advertise this as a discount


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*,

Any news about release the waterblock for Zen 2?


----------



## chas1723

Jacob I am planning a large order through your website once I finalize my build. Would you wait and ship everything at once or would you ship as pieces become available?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## wot

Guys, any rep here?
Im sending emails to [email protected] but nobody seems to care?! I have corroded gpu block (Order 8319) wich im trying to RMA...
Next time I'll use aquacomputer block for sure!

Edit:
Only used with distill water and one drop anti-bacteria. The CPU block is like new but the gpu total trash!


----------



## 414347

Not to say that It's OK to have corrosion on any brand of WC block, but what makes you think you won't get corrosion on AQ product

In fact I used AQ block years ago that got corroded after 3 weeks of use (defective block, that's all) manufacturers defects happens.

Some of the antibacterial additives are too acidic and can potentially cause issues, when you get your new block It can help you on a long run If you add some Mayhem's inhibitor+ or some sort of anti-corrosive additive, It's not wise using only antibacterial, there is always mixed metals even in the most "similar metal" water-loop builds.


----------



## Aenra

wot said:


> nobody seems to care
> 
> Only used with distill water and one drop anti-bacteria



Nobody should care, sorry to break it to you.
You've been an active user since 2009 and you still haven't learned you shouldn't be using additives..? 
Your fault entirely; use it right and if it breaks still,_ then_ complain.

* I forgot it's the ADHD era, so here: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3127
(don't know if watercool will ever release their own, but until something else comes along? The above's recommended. And then some)


----------



## Bart

Aenra said:


> Nobody should care, sorry to break it to you.
> You've been an active user since 2009 and you still haven't learned you *shouldn't* be using additives..?
> Your fault entirely; use it right and if it breaks still,_ then_ complain.
> 
> * I forgot it's the ADHD era, so here: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3127
> (don't know if watercool will ever release their own, but until something else comes along? The above's recommended. And then some)


Umm, don't you mean SHOULD be using additives? No one runs just distilled water dude, we're ALL using additives if we're running distilled. This fool just didn't just any corrosion inhibitor, which is a standard thing in ANY pre-mixed coolant. Anyone using distilled water should be adding biocide AND corrosion inhibitor. That's where he failed. It's certainly not Watercool's fault.


----------



## Aenra

Bart said:


> Umm, don't you mean SHOULD be using additives?


Stick to watching cartoons "Bart".

No, you shouldn't be using additives, as it'd entail your having bought straight distilled water and just adding whatever you think (see: 'tailored' for a contrast) is best in it. So no. So as stated, buy a ready-made solution that UNLIKE general use additives DIY mixes, has been tailored to the application at hand.
So basically, just like EEEVERYONE has been saying for like who knows how long by now, do NOT buy additives to put in your distilled water as they're proven to cause issues; different metals, different conditions, different tolerances, etc. It being why the entire industry has kiiinda moved on. Like you know, all the way to forbidding DIY distilled water + additives. Yes, it is what the companies do too, but no, it's not the same as doing it yourself; you have not their data to know what the longterm effects are of your super market purchased general use anti-younameit, you have not their knowhow -which they do not disclose- and you have not any assurance regarding compatibility, it being why it's not recommended. 
I hope that helps.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
1000 ml
0.5 ml biocide 
0.5 ml inhibitor 
999 ml distiller water
Should be fine but ph should be checked every couple months 



skupples said:


> wait wait... i'm tired one sec... this'll do
> 
> https://sciencing.com/ph-distilled-water-4623914.html
> 
> "The pH of distilled water immediately after distillation is 7, but within hours after distillation, it has absorbed carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and become acidic with a pH of 5.8."
> 
> it should stabilize after mixing.





Mayhem said:


> Perfect PH is 7.2
> 
> 6.8 to 7.8 is fine


----------



## wot

Aenra said:


> Nobody should care, sorry to break it to you.
> You've been an active user since 2009 and you still haven't learned you shouldn't be using additives..?
> Your fault entirely; use it right and if it breaks still,_ then_ complain.
> 
> * I forgot it's the ADHD era, so here: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3127
> (don't know if watercool will ever release their own, but until something else comes along? The above's recommended. And then some)


Watercool clams 2 years warranty (my order is from 26/02/2018) support must care or Im wrong? Im using distill with drop of pt nuke since 2009 without a single problem 5+ personal rigs. So far I had problem with Alphacool dirty rads, ek nickel fiasco and recent watercool block.


----------



## Bart

Aenra said:


> Stick to watching cartoons "Bart".
> 
> No, you shouldn't be using additives, as it'd entail your having bought straight distilled water and just adding whatever you think (see: 'tailored' for a contrast) is best in it. So no. So as stated, buy a ready-made solution that UNLIKE general use additives DIY mixes, has been tailored to the application at hand.
> So basically, just like EEEVERYONE has been saying for like who knows how long by now, do NOT buy additives to put in your distilled water as they're proven to cause issues; different metals, different conditions, different tolerances, etc. It being why the entire industry has kiiinda moved on. Like you know, all the way to forbidding DIY distilled water + additives. Yes, it is what the companies do too, but no, it's not the same as doing it yourself; you have not their data to know what the longterm effects are of your super market purchased general use anti-younameit, you have not their knowhow -which they do not disclose- and you have not any assurance regarding compatibility, it being why it's not recommended.
> I hope that helps.


That really doesn't help dork, since I was referring to additives SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR WATER COOLING. I don't know what weird general additives you're referring to, but I'm talking about stuff built for PC water cooling, not your bloody car radiator.


----------



## ryan92084

wot said:


> Guys, any rep here?
> Im sending emails to [email protected] but nobody seems to care?! I have corroded gpu block (Order 8319) wich im trying to RMA...
> Next time I'll use aquacomputer block for sure!
> 
> Edit:
> Only used with distill water and one drop anti-bacteria. The CPU block is like new but the gpu total trash!


Standard stagnant area nickel dissolving/flaking/erosion/corrosion whatever you want to call it. Either use an anti corrosive or don't use nickel plated products particularly gpu blocks which have a lot of these types of stagnant areas. Also which type of petras additive? One of them (CU?)is pretty harsh on nickel.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

wot said:


> Watercool clams 2 years warranty (my order is from 26/02/2018) support must care or Im wrong? Im using distill with drop of pt nuke since 2009 without a single problem 5+ personal rigs. So far I had problem with Alphacool dirty rads, ek nickel fiasco and recent watercool block.





ryan92084 said:


> Standard stagnant area nickel dissolving/flaking/erosion/corrosion whatever you want to call it. Either use an anti corrosive or don't use nickel plated products particularly gpu blocks which have a lot of these types of stagnant areas. Also which type of petras additive? One of them (CU?)is pretty harsh on nickel.


PT Nuke is copper sulfate, a product known and well documented to cause problems with nickel plating. You said it yourself, you had issues with nickel plating getting peeled off from two different manufacturers now, both using this additive. Doesn't that ring a warning bell for you?


Warranty covers manufacturer's faults. The block isn't faulty - you added a chemical that attacked it. As a gesture of good will, we sent you a replacement coldplate, as discussed via mail. But we would like to encourage you not use aggressive chemicals like copper sulfate in your loop, and instead use a corrosion inhibitor - all current ones double function as biocide anyways and hence render all these solutions useless. We made good experiences with Mayhems X-1, for example.


----------



## wot

Watercool-Jakob said:


> PT Nuke is copper sulfate, a product known and well documented to cause problems with nickel plating. You said it yourself, you had issues with nickel plating getting peeled off from two different manufacturers now, both using this additive. Doesn't that ring a warning bell for you?
> 
> 
> Warranty covers manufacturer's faults. The block isn't faulty - you added a chemical that attacked it. As a gesture of good will, we sent you a replacement coldplate, as discussed via mail. But we would like to encourage you not use aggressive chemicals like copper sulfate in your loop, and instead use a corrosion inhibitor - all current ones double function as biocide anyways and hence render all these solutions useless. We made good experiences with Mayhems X-1, for example.


Thank you for that.
Still dont explain how the cpu block is like new? My last two gpu blocks also from watercool (780ti's) also looked like new. Maybe is my fault Ok but what bothers me is watercool support ignorance. I did send 2 msg from watercool site and 2 email to [email protected] and a post here...


----------



## 414347

I have used Heatkiller blocks for darn very long time and have never had issues and I used Mayhems Biocide Extreme at first which is copper sulfate then Biocide + & Inhibitor+.

With all fairness I think, in this case, it was more of a Heatkiller problem, bad nickel plating, although I would strongly recommend from this point on use inhibitors as well, it does help.


----------



## Mordorr

Bart said:


> That really doesn't help dork, since I was referring to additives SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR WATER COOLING. I don't know what weird general additives you're referring to, but I'm talking about stuff built for PC water cooling, not your bloody car radiator.



Actually, i use only radiator car for more than 13 years and 0 issues.....quite nice stuff.


----------



## ThrashZone

wot said:


> Thank you for that.
> Still dont explain how the cpu block is like new? My last two gpu blocks also from watercool (780ti's) also looked like new. Maybe is my fault Ok but what bothers me is watercool support ignorance. I did send 2 msg from watercool site and 2 email to [email protected] and a post here...


Hi,
CPU block is smaller and doesn't have near as much dead zones in it like a much larger gpu blocks do.

Could also just lucky on the cpu block.

I was looking to strip some nickle off a perfectly good ek gpu block maybe PT Nuke is the answer ek has the worst nickle plating by far I've read 
I hate nickle plating personally I really don't see the point and the popularity of it.
Copper plexi dammit


----------



## chibi

Hello, I need replacement thermal pads for my Titan Xp. When I took my waterblock off for maintenance, the pads were hard and cracked/peeled after 1 year of usage.

Also, how is the shelf life of thermal pads? If I order two sets, can my extra piece be left in storage for 1-2 years? 
@Watercool-Jakob - are thermal pads under warranty? If not, would these be the correct ones to order? 

Replacement thermal pads for backplate for TITAN Xp
Product no.: 79463

Replacement thermal pads for HEATKILLER IV TITAN Xp
Product no.: 79368


----------



## 414347

chibi said:


> Hello, I need replacement thermal pads for my Titan Xp. When I took my waterblock off for maintenance, the pads were hard and cracked/peeled after 1 year of usage.
> 
> Also, how is the shelf life of thermal pads? If I order two sets, can my extra piece be left in storage for 1-2 years?
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob - are thermal pads under warranty? If not, would these be the correct ones to order?
> 
> Replacement thermal pads for backplate for TITAN Xp
> Product no.: 79463
> 
> Replacement thermal pads for HEATKILLER IV TITAN Xp
> Product no.: 79368


Since you not getting response yet, at least in the forum this might help 

I remember whey back when I inquired the same info and Christian said, but don't quote me on that, things could have change, but he stated thermal pads have 2 year manufactures warranty.

Also, I still have some older thermal pads from Titan black, probably 3-4 years old (the purple once) and they are still good, but what I usually do is put them in ziplack and suck all the air out of the bag, so they are pretty much hermetically sealed, then put them in cool dark place.


----------



## chibi

NewUser16 said:


> Since you not getting response yet, at least in the forum this might help
> 
> I remember whey back when I inquired the same info and Christian said, but don't quote me on that, things could have change, but he stated thermal pads have 2 year manufactures warranty.
> 
> Also, I still have some older thermal pads from Titan black, probably 3-4 years old (the purple once) and they are still good, but what I usually do is put them in ziplack and suck all the air out of the bag, so they are pretty much hermetically sealed, then put them in cool dark place.



Thanks, I'll order 2 sets and put the extra in a ziploc baggy. Probably too small an issue to request a warranty claim and it would be quicker if I just ordered a new set anyways. No response yet, but I appreciate your post though. :thumb:


----------



## 414347

chibi said:


> Thanks, I'll order 2 sets and put the extra in a ziploc baggy. Probably too small an issue to request a warranty claim and it would be quicker if I just ordered a new set anyways. No response yet, but I appreciate your post though. :thumb:


----------



## GAN77

NewUser16 said:


> Since you not getting response yet, at least in the forum this might help
> 
> I remember whey back when I inquired the same info and Christian said, but don't quote me on that, things could have change, but he stated thermal pads have 2 year manufactures warranty.
> 
> Also, I still have some older thermal pads from Titan black, probably 3-4 years old (the purple once) and they are still good, but what I usually do is put them in ziplack and suck all the air out of the bag, so they are pretty much hermetically sealed, then put them in cool dark place.


Buy at any store. The thickness is indicated in the manual.


----------



## broodro0ster

wot said:


> Still dont explain how the cpu block is like new.


It happens only in stagnant area's. So between the plexi and the block where there isn't a lot of flow. 
Products with copper sulfate will cause this issue. PT nuke is one of them. It's fine in a copper loop, but not in a nickel loop.

Get some mayhems Inhibitor+ and biocide+. A bottle of each will last you a lifetime and it's super safe for nickel. Or use a Mayhems premix. Either option is fine.


----------



## 414347

GAN77 said:


> Buy at any store. The thickness is indicated in the manual.


Yap, the org. are light and dark purple but you can get any thermal pads as long as they are 0.5 and 1.0 mm


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

wot said:


> Thank you for that.
> Still dont explain how the cpu block is like new? My last two gpu blocks also from watercool (780ti's) also looked like new. Maybe is my fault Ok but what bothers me is watercool support ignorance. I did send 2 msg from watercool site and 2 email to [email protected] and a post here...


Corrossiveprocesses happen faster and more aggressivly in areas where the liquid can interact over prolonged times. So they happen at stagnant areas much faster then in areas with high flow speed. The CPU block has virtually no stagnant area.
I only received one email to the support email address and replied to it after we checked and verified the process internally.




chibi said:


> Hello, I need replacement thermal pads for my Titan Xp. When I took my waterblock off for maintenance, the pads were hard and cracked/peeled after 1 year of usage.
> 
> Also, how is the shelf life of thermal pads? If I order two sets, can my extra piece be left in storage for 1-2 years?
> 
> @*Watercool-Jakob* - are thermal pads under warranty? If not, would these be the correct ones to order?
> 
> Replacement thermal pads for backplate for TITAN Xp
> Product no.: 79463
> 
> Replacement thermal pads for HEATKILLER IV TITAN Xp
> Product no.: 79368


This is the first time in 19 years that we heard about something like this. Pads usually only become hard when exposed to sunlight and oxigen. When installed in a block, they are usually protected against sunlight, and the contact to oxigen is very limited, so they usually last for years. As a gesture of good will, we will send you a new set free of charge. Please send me an email with your shipping address and phone number.


Shelf life depends on storage conditions: if in a sealed bag and protected against sun light, they last for 2-5 years.


----------



## chibi

Watercool-Jakob said:


> This is the first time in 19 years that we heard about something like this. Pads usually only become hard when exposed to sunlight and oxigen. When installed in a block, they are usually protected against sunlight, and the contact to oxigen is very limited, so they usually last for years. As a gesture of good will, we will send you a new set free of charge. Please send me an email with your shipping address and phone number.
> 
> 
> Shelf life depends on storage conditions: if in a sealed bag and protected against sun light, they last for 2-5 years.



Hey Jakob, PM sent, thank you for your response. Can I get your email address as well if you would prefer contact through email?


----------



## snef

Hi everyone

long time i post something on OCN

i just finish 2 build for Asus ROG with the, so appreciate, help of Watercool and i just cant forget OCN 

here the first one, the second , im under NDA until next week


how you like Heatkiller product in full white?????

the first one is named "Fleurs" and this one will be my fife's gaming pc









































































a little teaser to the second one


----------



## GAN77

Hi guys!))


----------



## jvillaveces

Beautiful work as always Snef! So tasteful and elegant


----------



## isabirov

snef said:


> Hi everyone
> 
> long time i post something on OCN
> 
> i just finish 2 build for Asus ROG with the, so appreciate, help of Watercool and i just cant forget OCN
> 
> here the first one, the second , im under NDA until next week
> 
> 
> how you like Heatkiller product in full white?????
> 
> the first one is named "Fleurs" and this one will be my fife's gaming pc


Beautiful! Your wife should be happy, as she has the most eye pleasing pc ever.


----------



## isabirov

Everyone is busy with modding, so here are my two cents 
I've been planning SFF build for quite a while. Hope to finish it in near future.
First problem that I met is that HK tube D5 is too long for my build, even in it's 100 version.
So, presenting you brand new HK tube 50 D5 black edition (black tinted borosilicate glass).
I got 50mm black tinted glass tube and cut 50mm from struts and standpipe. Total height is 141 mm now, just as 140mm fan.
Looks bulky, but I like it.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

isabirov said:


> Everyone is busy with modding, so here are my two cents
> 
> I've been planning SFF build for quite a while. Hope to finish it in near future.
> 
> First problem that I met is that HK tube D5 is too long for my build, even in it's 100 version.
> 
> So, presenting you brand new HK tube 50 D5 black edition (black tinted borosilicate glass).
> 
> I got 50mm black tinted glass tube and cut 50mm from struts and standpipe. Total height is 141 mm now, just as 140mm fan.
> 
> Looks bulky, but I like it.


niiiiiiicer than nice!

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## pmc25

@Watercool-Jakob

Any update on the Ryzen 3xxx waterblock? ETA was late summer.

Related - thought this was interesting.

https://www.igorslab.media/en/does-...t-air-coolers-due-to-its-asymmetrical-design/

Igor seems to think that specific designs to cope with the asymmetry could bear fruit.

Edit: I wonder if WaterCool, and or others, will offer different cold plates for the 2 chiplet (39xx) and 1 chiplet (38xx, 37xx, 36xx) designs, or only bother with the 2 chiplet ones, as they're the high end. Obviously, designing one cold plate for both would defeat the objective.


----------



## chibi

isabirov said:


> Everyone is busy with modding, so here are my two cents
> I've been planning SFF build for quite a while. Hope to finish it in near future.
> First problem that I met is that HK tube D5 is too long for my build, even in it's 100 version.
> So, presenting you brand new HK tube 50 D5 black edition (black tinted borosilicate glass).
> I got 50mm black tinted glass tube and cut 50mm from struts and standpipe. Total height is 141 mm now, just as 140mm fan.
> Looks bulky, but I like it.



What the heck, that's so cute! Where did you get the tinted glass from? I wouldn't mind the black tint instead of clear. 

Also, do you think the reservoir has enough volume to effectively bleed out the air? The top multi-port looks like it may be setup as your intake. There is not much room for the air bubbles to travel and it might just get sucked right into the pump and recirculate back into your loop. Maybe run the pump on low? Let us know how it works out in the end regardless! :thumb:

For the struts, did you have to tap new threads?


----------



## Aenra

pmc25 said:


> Igor


has a lot of money to waste and some pretty good contacts on top; for this kind of hobby anyway..

Regardless, you can see that at best, he got a 3C variation and that only at 40ltr/hr; with better flowrates, the differences were all within margin of error. Three degrees won't change anything, except maybe the manufacturing cost, which as always, will be rolled down to you.
Lastly, we're soon to have (something less than a year from now) multi-CCD Ryzen SKUs coming out where once again, uniform will be best as said CCDs will be spread out evenly around the I/O die.

I'd vote for keeping it real.
Of course, we've got people that spent 800euro for a Gigabyte Xtreme only so as to watercool it, lol.. so..


----------



## Aenra

Sorry for double posting, but just saw this:


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Aenra said:


> Sorry for double posting, but just saw this:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmxrxowWWFw


thank you so much for posting the video. cause i thought myself i visit them in the near future, that saves me money and time. 

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Aenra

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> thought myself i visit them in the near future


You're welcome 

Not sure if i'd ever consider visiting, but.. if i was one of the people working there, or say the owner, i could.. see me camping inside during the w/ends, lol.. long as it took, no issues, lol
I'd buy a looooot of aluminium! Make myself that Caselabs Mercury S9 i dream about! With that kind of equipment, goddamn, the case one could make.. from what i've seen, they have everything you could possibly need!
(ironically, i bought my S8 and pedestals believing that sooner or later, the time would come for an upgrade to the inevitable S9 and as such, it'd feel like money for nothing; and here we are now, no more Caselabs)

Anyway, it's always cool seeing such stuff; plus, you know, always some extra value when it's from a company you like.. they have production issues as it is and yet, you ask for something custom, they'll make it for you. That's awesome for me really.

Now if SOMEONE in there finalised that dual pump design!!!


----------



## 414347

Aenra said:


> Sorry for double posting, but just saw this:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmxrxowWWFw


I wont lie, this was the best video I have watched in a while. I am huge Watercool/Heatkiller fan and I have been always talking to Jacob, Christian and Rick, Its nice to put a face to a voice.

Thanks Aenra


----------



## Barefooter

Yes very cool video and nice to get a peek inside WaterCool :thumb:


----------



## Aenra

Much obliged myself, thanks for the rep


----------



## Vlada011

isabirov said:


> Everyone is busy with modding, so here are my two cents
> I've been planning SFF build for quite a while. Hope to finish it in near future.
> First problem that I met is that HK tube D5 is too long for my build, even in it's 100 version.
> So, presenting you brand new HK tube 50 D5 black edition (black tinted borosilicate glass).
> I got 50mm black tinted glass tube and cut 50mm from struts and standpipe. Total height is 141 mm now, just as 140mm fan.
> Looks bulky, but I like it.


OMG, this is amazing.
I have some economic problems, I can't wait to switch from EKWB XRES D5 to Heatkiller 100 D5 + WCP D5 w Speed Controller.


----------



## Section31

Vlada011 said:


> OMG, this is amazing.
> I have some economic problems, I can't wait to switch from EKWB XRES D5 to Heatkiller 100 D5 + WCP D5 w Speed Controller.


Same here.


----------



## Vlada011

Look what guy done with Heatkiller, this is amazing.
Market lack of this size of combo pump and reservoir. 
Long time I didn't saw something cool like this... 

Mini ITX build will need maybe 8/10 tubing and fittings size in future, and could look fantastic.
I saw Bitspower fittings 8/10 and 8/11, cheaper and nicer then standard size.

Only flaw of Heatkiller reservoir is radiator mounting kit didn't design with idea to every version fit on radiator. 
Becuase of that I can't use 100 version on this way only 150... but I could install 100 on stand on PC-O11 floor. I would rather die then drill mine case.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

isabirov said:


> Everyone is busy with modding, so here are my two cents
> I've been planning SFF build for quite a while. Hope to finish it in near future.
> First problem that I met is that HK tube D5 is too long for my build, even in it's 100 version.
> So, presenting you brand new HK tube 50 D5 black edition (black tinted borosilicate glass).
> I got 50mm black tinted glass tube and cut 50mm from struts and standpipe. Total height is 141 mm now, just as 140mm fan.
> Looks bulky, but I like it.


You know I really love your hands-on approach! But in our opinion, the Heatkiller Tube design is already pretty bulky in the 100mm version, and we don't feel that the design is very functional or aesthetical pleasing in shorter versions, so we will not produce a stock 50mm version. We still do want to make a reservoir for small form factor needs, but it will be outside of the Heatkiller Tube design.
But again: love your modding! Keep it up!





pmc25 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Any update on the Ryzen 3xxx waterblock? ETA was late summer.
> 
> Related - thought this was interesting.
> 
> https://www.igorslab.media/en/does-...t-air-coolers-due-to-its-asymmetrical-design/
> 
> Igor seems to think that specific designs to cope with the asymmetry could bear fruit.
> 
> Edit: I wonder if WaterCool, and or others, will offer different cold plates for the 2 chiplet (39xx) and 1 chiplet (38xx, 37xx, 36xx) designs, or only bother with the 2 chiplet ones, as they're the high end. Obviously, designing one cold plate for both would defeat the objective.


Yup. Our internal testing is completely in line with Igor's results: the Heatkiller IV is absolutely sufficient to cool Zen2 CPUs. There is no urgent need to change the design.
The results will, of course, be integrated into possible future product developments.




Aenra said:


> Sorry for double posting, but just saw this:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmxrxowWWFw


We've been working with Daz for over 10 years now, and never met in person. So it was a great day to finally hang out together! I'm happy to see that you like his video! 





Vlada011 said:


> Look what guy done with Heatkiller, this is amazing.
> Market lack of this size of combo pump and reservoir.
> Long time I didn't saw something cool like this...
> 
> Mini ITX build will need maybe 8/10 tubing and fittings size in future, and could look fantastic.
> I saw Bitspower fittings 8/10 and 8/11, cheaper and nicer then standard size.
> 
> Only flaw of Heatkiller reservoir is radiator mounting kit didn't design with idea to every version fit on radiator.
> Becuase of that I can't use 100 version on this way only 150... but I could install 100 on stand on PC-O11 floor. I would rather die then drill mine case.


Oh. OH! I will have the right product for you in the next2-3 days. New mounting adapter bracket for the HK Tube is coming. If I forgot to crosspost it here, nudge me on Wednesday


----------



## Vlada011

That's nice to hear... I believe Heatkiller Tube design is best option to replace EK Glass...
First I plan to stay on floor with multi top port...

I don't know why they build top ports when no inlet tube... I need to use this tool I made specifically to drain computer in such situation.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh. OH! I will have the right product for you in the next2-3 days. New mounting adapter bracket for the HK Tube is coming. If I forgot to crosspost it here, nudge me on Wednesday



Interesting news! I will wait. Maybe I'll change plans again)

A preliminary diagram or drawing is possible for clarity?


----------



## Section31

Thanks for the update.


----------



## Krisztias

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh. OH! I will have the right product for you in the next2-3 days. New mounting adapter bracket for the HK Tube is coming. If I forgot to crosspost it here, nudge me on Wednesday


Can you tell us when the C8H/C8HW Chipset waterblock is coming?


----------



## snef

a little project i just finish with a week notice with Watercool and Asus ROG

based on a new Crosshair VIII Impact and a strix 5700 XT

and with so great Heatkiller product


----------



## 414347

snef said:


> a little project i just finish with a week notice with Watercool and Asus ROG
> 
> based on a new Crosshair VIII Impact and a strix 5700 XT
> 
> and with so great Heatkiller product
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27ju7tk0xms&t=00s


Everything you've picked for that build, even the music is great.
Thanks for the video


----------



## snef

NewUser16 said:


> Everything you've picked for that build, even the music is great.
> Thanks for the video



Thanks a lot, appreciate


----------



## Vlada011

snef said:


> a little project i just finish with a week notice with Watercool and Asus ROG
> 
> based on a new Crosshair VIII Impact and a strix 5700 XT
> 
> and with so great Heatkiller product
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27ju7tk0xms&t=00s



Amazing. Ultimate combination Lian Li + Watercool.de.
Did you modified something or you used AGB Stand 120 and Basic AGB Mounting kit for Tube.
I didn't know they could be combined like that to fit on 120mm radiator. That mean I could install on same way on vertical fan place.
Great, I didn't imagine that these two stuff could be combined. That's everything I need.

Jesus I like these Heatkiller products. 
Where was mine brain to recognize that earlier.


----------



## isabirov

chibi said:


> What the heck, that's so cute! Where did you get the tinted glass from? I wouldn't mind the black tint instead of clear.
> 
> Also, do you think the reservoir has enough volume to effectively bleed out the air? The top multi-port looks like it may be setup as your intake. There is not much room for the air bubbles to travel and it might just get sucked right into the pump and recirculate back into your loop. Maybe run the pump on low? Let us know how it works out in the end regardless! :thumb:
> 
> For the struts, did you have to tap new threads?


Got this tube from chinese glass manufacturers 
I asked for the sample and they have sent it to me without any charge, just shipping costs. Totally 3 tubes, two transparent 50mm and one black tinted 50mm. Luckily, I had a friend visiting China, so they shipped it to his address and he brought it to me. Now, I have additional 2 50mm transparent tubes in reserve 

For the volume, i'm sure it will be OK. Air bubbles will not be sucked if I fill reservoir to the top and after some time, when air collects in reservoir, I'l just put more water.

Story to be continued. Promise to post full build log


----------



## isabirov

Watercool-Jakob said:


> You know I really love your hands-on approach! But in our opinion, the Heatkiller Tube design is already pretty bulky in the 100mm version, and we don't feel that the design is very functional or aesthetical pleasing in shorter versions, so we will not produce a stock 50mm version. We still do want to make a reservoir for small form factor needs, but it will be outside of the Heatkiller Tube design.
> But again: love your modding! Keep it up!
> 
> Oh. OH! I will have the right product for you in the next2-3 days. New mounting adapter bracket for the HK Tube is coming. If I forgot to crosspost it here, nudge me on Wednesday


Thank you, Jakob.
I also think that it's bulky, but have no other choices. Another suggestion is to make pump holding bottom to cover pump fully. HK tube is rectangular in design, but the pump itself is round :/ I would suggest to make bottom longer and provide longer screws so whole resservoir will be in similar design (sorry for my english, hope you could understand what I mean )

For my build, I need custom mount for my res, since it will not be centered to 140 rad but slided to the right and port on rad and port on top of res will align. Now I'm designing the mount and will post it when it's ready. 
Anyway, I'm curious what new holder will look like. If it's something like universal holder from bitspower, which I suggested, I will shoot myself in head


----------



## LiquidHaus

That mini Tube is AWESOME.

I can imagine that mounted on top of a DDC pump would just be so cool.

XSPC used to make an very small square reservoir that mounted to a DDC that I always loved. Was in my first ever watercooled rig and I miss that thing. This Heatkiller Mini Tube would be the perfect replacement for that form factor solution.


----------



## isabirov

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Oh. OH! I will have the right product for you in the next2-3 days. New mounting adapter bracket for the HK Tube is coming. If I forgot to crosspost it here, nudge me on Wednesday


Jakob, reminding you to post the bracket


----------



## Vlada011

How I didn't saw earlier that Heatkiller tube size 100 could be mounted on 120 mm fan place like on picture above with combination of Basic kit and Stand.
First time I saw that someone use them on that way and I google and examine hundreds pictures of heatkiller mounting solutions.
Only one more evidence how they necily design parts to fit and to be combined together.
Lack of option to people install 100 Tube on fan place or radiator on that way was from my perspective only flaw of series.
Now I see I was wrong.

And looks like Stand for 120mm place is not so big as someone could think, on picture look bigger.
With Heatkiller tube installed size is perfect. Look amazing even on stand.


----------



## Section31

I have question. What screws do i need to mount the fan brackets onto an hardware labs radiators.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
#8-32 I believe length depends.


----------



## Section31

Thanks.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
EK rads are #6-32 thinner.
Pity they don't use same sizes life would be simpler


----------



## valvehead

Section31 said:


> I have question. What screws do i need to mount the fan brackets onto an hardware labs radiators.


Hardware Labs uses M4.0 threads.


----------



## iamjanco

Section31 said:


> I have question. What screws do i need to mount the fan brackets onto an hardware labs radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> ThrashZone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> #8-32 I believe length depends.
Click to expand...

#8-32 = M4x .7 (Hardware Labs specs the metric version).

Like TZ stated, be careful of the lengths you use to avoid any punctures under the screw hole openings. While I believe their newer products do, not all of the Hardware Labs radiators have those little protective plates under the screw hole openings:









If need be, you can pick up a cheap tool that has screw cutters in it and cut the lengths to size yourself. Something *like this* will work, and there are less expensive versions of it out there.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah #8-32 stainless is the home depot equivalent


----------



## valvehead

It is not 8-32. The thread pitch is not the same.


----------



## ThrashZone

valvehead said:


> It is not 8-32. The thread pitch is not the same.


Hi,
What is this baseball lol 
They work just fine I'm using many of them for push/ pull fans on four HW labs rads.


----------



## valvehead

Left (black): M4 provided by HL
Right: 8-32







About 10 metric threads for every 9 standard.

You can get away with 8-32 in sheet metal (like the mounting flange of said radiator), but you're still messing up the threads if you do.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Gezz how much of the thread is needed into a radiator wait I'll tell you about 3/16" of threaded area so even by you're side by side is perfectly fine


----------



## iamjanco

valvehead said:


> Left (black): M4 provided by HL
> Right: 8-32
> View attachment 297572
> 
> About 10 metric threads for every 9 standard.
> 
> You can get away with 8-32 in sheet metal (like the mounting flange of said radiator), but you're still messing up the threads if you do.


I stand corrected, I should have said: #8-32 ~ M4x .7 (Hardware Labs specs the metric version; but #8-32 is considered its SAE/UNC equivalent and will work in this instance).


----------



## Section31

Thanks again. I just need to get an drill bit to make the thread on the fan mount larger (it designed for 6/32) only.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Vlada011 said:


> Only flaw of Heatkiller reservoir is radiator mounting kit didn't design with idea to every version fit on radiator.





isabirov said:


> Jakob, reminding you to post the bracket


Her you go, boys: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/30269





snef said:


> a little project i just finish with a week notice with Watercool and Asus ROG
> 
> based on a new Crosshair VIII Impact and a strix 5700 XT
> 
> and with so great Heatkiller product
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27ju7tk0xms&t=00s


Thank you for the great build and video, really love it!






Krisztias said:


> Can you tell us when the C8H/C8HW Chipset waterblock is coming?


They are scheduled for late October!


----------



## napych

Usually I have to drill wider holes in heatkiller mounts to make stock HWL screws fit. I can’t take photos right now. I’ll post them later of someone’s interested.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi Jakob, I've ordered some stuff from your online shop and I need to make one change if it is possible. I send you a PM.

Many thanks in advance.


----------



## Section31

Thanks for update. The PCH block waterblock i would be interested in (though it never really goes up above 70degrees).

Curious, do the new radiator mounting brackets support M4 screws?


----------



## pmc25

snef said:


> Hi everyone
> 
> long time i post something on OCN
> 
> i just finish 2 build for Asus ROG with the, so appreciate, help of Watercool and i just cant forget OCN
> 
> here the first one, the second , im under NDA until next week
> 
> 
> how you like Heatkiller product in full white?????
> 
> the first one is named "Fleurs" and this one will be my fife's gaming pc
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> a little teaser to the second one


 @Watercool-Jakob

Is it possible to get Tube / Brackets in factory white?


----------



## Krisztias

Watercool-Jakob said:


> They are scheduled for late October!


Thank you for your answer!
I hope my 16/10 compression fittings will fit...


----------



## Section31

An WIP build (Using 5700XT with corsair block/3700X/Asus x570Tuff) so I can do loop testing without taking apart my 3900x/2080TI/Hero VII build. Will be transferring them plus some other minor parts over to the new case after paint job and testing of the loop.


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey Jakob,

Any info/ETA for the 5700/XT blocks?


----------



## Arctucas

*Where to buy?*

I currently have a copper 3.0 CPU block, and I want to upgrade to the PRO IV nickel version.

I cannot seem to find a retailer or etailer in the U.S. that carries them.

Anyone know of a source?

Thanks


----------



## Section31

I think they are out of stock atm. You can look at ordering direct from them and even consider dazmode from canada if he has stock.


----------



## ThrashZone

Arctucas said:


> I currently have a copper 3.0 CPU block, and I want to upgrade to the PRO IV nickel version.
> 
> I cannot seem to find a retailer or etailer in the U.S. that carries them.
> 
> Anyone know of a source?
> 
> Thanks


Hi,
I've just skipped the middle men and gone directly to watercool.de and ordered 
Shipping is high 29 euro but is fedex

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wat...ercooleK/Categories/Wasserkühler/"CPU Kühler"

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18003


----------



## Section31

Shipping from heatkiller direct is flat rate.So you order multiple items and the shipping savings are even greater.


----------



## Vlada011

This is DazMode personal RIG. As you see Heatkiller DOMINATE. As you see aluminum Silverstone TJ11, or some other case. Look like TJ11.
Nickel block for Threadripper look amazing, every person I show like him.
I'm so impatience to build my Heatkiller 100 D5 with WCP D5.

Watercool.de rule. 

If you can't find some little additional parts, controllers, etc then Aqua Computer is allowed, but if Watercool produce...
Then choice is obvious. I can't wait to build and share pictures. Koolance fititings will perfectly match with Heatkiller, I didn't saw that someone else use them together.
I mean on Koolance new series, they have newer and old, newer is same as Kollance HT Fittings. I didn't decide black or chrome.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Is it possible to get Tube / Brackets in factory white?


No, we do not offer a white version.




Arctucas said:


> I currently have a copper 3.0 CPU block, and I want to upgrade to the PRO IV nickel version.
> 
> I cannot seem to find a retailer or etailer in the U.S. that carries them.
> 
> Anyone know of a source?
> 
> Thanks


Our partners in America are ModMyMods, Performance PCs and Dazmode. We restock all of them continously.


----------



## Leonko

Any news on your new fan/pump controler? 9. july 2018 HK announced that it will be released before christmas and still nothing.


----------



## GHADthc

This has probably been asked already, but can you use an EK nickel plated 1080Ti backplate with a Heatkiller IV Titan/1080Ti block?


----------



## Arctucas

Watercool-Jakob said:


> <SNIP>
> 
> Our partners in America are ModMyMods, Performance PCs and Dazmode. We restock all of them continously.


ModMyMods is out of stock, PPCs is out of stock, and DazMode is in Canada and is so restrictive on payment options that I cannot buy from them, although, they do show stock.

Thanks anyway.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Leonko said:


> Any news on your new fan/pump controler? 9. july 2018 HK announced that it will be released before christmas and still nothing.


The project is still in development. You can check out the Video from Daz' visit to us, where he got to play around with the current engineering sample.










GHADthc said:


> This has probably been asked already, but can you use an EK nickel plated 1080Ti backplate with a Heatkiller IV Titan/1080Ti block?


Not out of box. You will need to modify the mounting material. I don't know their current backplate in person, but in previous generations, they used smaller screw sizes, and thus mounting holes, so you would need to drill open the holes in the backplate, as well.




Arctucas said:


> ModMyMods is out of stock, PPCs is out of stock, and DazMode is in Canada and is so restrictive on payment options that I cannot buy from them, although, they do show stock.
> 
> Thanks anyway.


Well, as I said, we restock them continously. A shipment to MMM left yesterday, and a shipment to PPCs will go out next week. Unfortunately, we can currently not resupply all shops as fast as they sell out :// We are expanding and modernizing all year, and improve our resupply schedule continously.


----------



## KedarWolf

Can you mount a Heatkiller direct die with a 9900k without modding the posts etc.?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

We haven't done it ourself yet, but our great customer Martin did and reported that it went without any complication:


----------



## Vlada011

I always said, if you want to delid, don't install IHS again.
Use CPU Guard because installation of IHS is moment when some guys destroy everything they done.
I hope he will build and for X299 Dark motherboard now when Cascade Lake-X show up.

Waterblock from video is beautifull. I mean Nickel, Black Copper and this one all of them are excellent, only personal taste or color scheme of build or motherboard could help with decision. Personally Black Copper is mine favorite.

I had EVGA Z77 FTW motherboard, and had really cool CPU sample, one of best results on OC lists of Ivy Bridge here.
But in that moment I didn't had watercooling and only that stop me to push i7-3770K on 5.0GHz.
Maybe for next platform I again jump from ROG to EVGA motherboard, depend of models. X299 Dark is amazing, Z390 Dark from his Youtube clip as well.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Interesting he used MX-4 lol what happened to LM


----------



## iamjanco

Yeah, I was wondering about that as he was putting it down while there was nothing protecting the area immediately around the chip.


----------



## Arctucas

Watercool-Jakob said:


> <SNIP>
> Well, as I said, we restock them continously. A shipment to MMM left yesterday, and a shipment to PPCs will go out next week. Unfortunately, we can currently not resupply all shops as fast as they sell out :// We are expanding and modernizing all year, and improve our resupply schedule continously.


You do not know, perchance, if any Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel blocks are included in either of those orders?

I suppose you have no way of knowing if those vendors regularly re-stock the same items, or if they order on an as-needed basis? I seem to recall some vendors stating the Heatkiller IV blocks were six to eight weeks backorder.

Thanks

EDIT:

Jakob,

Are the Heatkiller IV PRO blocks compatible with direct die kits, such as are available from RockitCool or Der8auer?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Arctucas said:


> You do not know, perchance, if any Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel blocks are included in either of those orders?
> 
> I suppose you have no way of knowing if those vendors regularly re-stock the same items, or if they order on an as-needed basis? I seem to recall some vendors stating the Heatkiller IV blocks were six to eight weeks backorder.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Jakob,
> 
> Are the Heatkiller IV PRO blocks compatible with direct die kits, such as are available from RockitCool or Der8auer?




PPCs has a "Subscribe to back in stock notification" option, which sends you an email when they log the item in stock.

ModMyMods currently has "Backorder" available for the item, so it appears they are expecting it, and you will hold your place in line.

EDIT: oops, my bad, I had the wrong block... but PPCs still has the notification option. If you shoot an email to sales at both shops they will give you their best back-in-stock estimates. They are very responsive.


----------



## sharyn

Hi Jakob
Can you tell me when we can expect this item http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14072 on caseking.de
My order is on hold until that item arrives


----------



## Vlada011

Caseking need...

Heatkiller IV PRO Black Copper for AMD
Heatkiller 100/150/200 D5
Multitop Port
AGB Stand for 120mm 
AGB Stand Short
Watercool D5 WCP versions I advice them to order, why not, they are only version with nice ss bottom others have plastic sticker.
Heatkiller IV PRO Copper Ni for Intel and AMD
Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel Threadripper
Basic AGB Monting Kit
RGB LED Strip for Heatkiller Reservoir both size...

and few more products, but these are most important...
This time Casekind.de should order WCP Versions of D5, both, PWM and Speed Controller.


----------



## Hale59

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The project is still in development. You can check out the Video from Daz' visit to us, where he got to play around with the current engineering sample.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmxrxowWWFw


Such sophisticated set up and you can't make Nickel back plates for the GPUs? 
Any plans to go solve this?
https://www.igorslab.media/en/does-...t-air-coolers-due-to-its-asymmetrical-design/
https://www.igorslab.media/en/ryzen...ymmetrical-design-with-interesting-results/2/


----------



## ThrashZone

Arctucas said:


> You do not know, perchance, if any Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel blocks are included in either of those orders?
> 
> I suppose you have no way of knowing if those vendors regularly re-stock the same items, or if they order on an as-needed basis? I seem to recall some vendors stating the Heatkiller IV blocks were six to eight weeks backorder.
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT:
> Jakob,
> Are the Heatkiller IV PRO blocks compatible with direct die kits, such as are available from RockitCool or Der8auer?


Hi,
You can skip the middle men and buy directly from watercool and get your stuff in 2 weeks or less.

He's already posted a youtube video showing yes they are compatible with direct die mount so read back some.


----------



## Leonko

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The project is still in development. You can check out the Video from Daz' visit to us, where he got to play around with the current engineering sample.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hm thats too bad. You overestimated it alot with first release date, then,... I must say


----------



## pmc25

Hale59 said:


> Such sophisticated set up and you can't make Nickel back plates for the GPUs?
> Any plans to go solve this?
> https://www.igorslab.media/en/does-...t-air-coolers-due-to-its-asymmetrical-design/
> https://www.igorslab.media/en/ryzen...ymmetrical-design-with-interesting-results/2/


Initially we heard they were working hard to get out a solution by late summer, but last we heard, when I asked, was that their in house testing tallied with Igor's results and it wasn't worth the effort, so the project was discontinued.

Would be nice to know the status of the Navi blocks, though. I'm assuming radiators are now next year at the earliest, as nothing more has been said.


----------



## Section31

Hope so. I hope there expansion goes well so when the 3080ti and 5900xt are out, we can have blocks out on timely basis.


----------



## chibi

@Watercool-Jakob

Hello, is the inlet/outlet terminal symmetrical? My case is inverted so my Watercool logo will be upside down if installed as is. Can I take it apart and turn it around?


----------



## 414347

Hey chibi!

It is symmetrical, there is no specific in-out port so you can flip it no problem


----------



## chibi

NewUser16 said:


> Hey chibi!
> 
> It is symmetrical, there is no specific in-out port so you can flip it no problem



That's great! One more thing on my to-do list! :thumb:


----------



## 414347

Ya I just checked as I have at least dozen of them laying around here I never use them and its 100% identical all around no difference in ports in-out


----------



## cdnGhost

Hello all cant find a direct answer for this, I have a Titan xp heatkiller block but wanted to add an LED strip to it... where does it go lol.... bought the heatkiller XS rgb strip but just not sure were i will end up installing it... 

Thanks.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ModMyMods


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi! I've just received my Heatkiller IV block for my RTX 2080 Ti and I wonder if I can remove the led cable (I'm not going to use it) without disassemble the block?

Cheers!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Arctucas said:


> You do not know, perchance, if any Heatkiller IV PRO Nickel blocks are included in either of those orders?
> 
> Are the Heatkiller IV PRO blocks compatible with direct die kits, such as are available from RockitCool or Der8auer?


ModMyMods just received an order, PPCS will get theirs this week. Both do contain Nickle blocks. 
About the direct die kits: we dontknow - you'll have to ask the manufacturers of those, how they addressed the possible issues of changed heights. 






sharyn said:


> Hi Jakob
> Can you tell me when we can expect this item http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14072 on caseking.de
> My order is on hold until that item arrives


I'm sorry about that. Caseking is planned for next week, I'll make sure that this part is integrated into that shipment.




Hale59 said:


> Any plans to go solve this?
> https://www.igorslab.media/en/does-...t-air-coolers-due-to-its-asymmetrical-design/
> https://www.igorslab.media/en/ryzen...ymmetrical-design-with-interesting-results/2/


I don't see a problem that needs solving. The current Heatkiller IV CPU blocks perform perfectly fine on Ryzen 3 CPUs. Any change that we tested yielded close to no improvement in temperatures, so we keep the current product and focus our resources on other projects. 






Leonko said:


> hm thats too bad. You overestimated it alot with first release date, then,... I must say


Well - you're right  We did underestimate how long certain steps of this product took. 




chibi said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Hello, is the inlet/outlet terminal symmetrical? My case is inverted so my Watercool logo will be upside down if installed as is. Can I take it apart and turn it around?


Yup, this part is completely symmetrical and can be flipped over as it fits your build. 




cdnGhost said:


> Hello all cant find a direct answer for this, I have a Titan xp heatkiller block but wanted to add an LED strip to it... where does it go lol.... bought the heatkiller XS rgb strip but just not sure were i will end up installing it...
> 
> Thanks.














For an RGB LED, you'll have to route the cable out of the block, obviously. 





MoDeNa said:


> Hi! I've just received my Heatkiller IV block for my RTX 2080 Ti and I wonder if I can remove the led cable (I'm not going to use it) without disassemble the block?
> 
> Cheers!



Well, you can snip it and just leave the useless LED strip inside the block. That will most likely impact resale value, though. To take the strip out without damaging it, simply unscrew this two screws:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> Would be nice to know the status of the Navi blocks, though. I'm assuming radiators are now next year at the earliest, as nothing more has been said.


Sorry, oversaw this question on the first go-around, but I feel like it's important enough to justify a double-post:




 RX Navi blocks will become available starting next week! Backplate and single-slot I/O bracket will become available together with the nickel blocks, 10/30.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Finally got my x299 apex heatkiller copper plexi vrm block pretty 
Not a bad turn around direct from watercool 8 working days


----------



## MoDeNa

Watercool-Jakob said:


> ...
> Well, you can snip it and just leave the useless LED strip inside the block. That will most likely impact resale value, though. To take the strip out without damaging it, simply unscrew this two screws:


Done! Very easy! 

Many thanks Jakob


----------



## valvehead

My CPU block just arrived today. Finally I got to remove that noisy and somewhat ugly stock AM4 cooler.











CPU temps dropped about 15C, and it's much quieter now. :thumb:


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

valvehead said:


> My CPU block just arrived today. Finally I got to remove that noisy and somewhat ugly stock AM4 cooler.
> 
> 
> View attachment 300106
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temps dropped about 15C, and it's much quieter now. :thumb:


hi valvehead,

is that epdm tubing ? Nice rig!


Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## valvehead

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> hi valvehead,
> 
> is that epdm tubing ? Nice rig!
> 
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


Thanks! it's EK ZMT tubing. No more plasticizer leaching!

This is an old Lian-Li A77A case, but I recently upgraded it from a 2600K to a 3800X. I decided to redo most of the water loop while I was in there.


----------



## 414347

valvehead said:


> My CPU block just arrived today. Finally I got to remove that noisy and somewhat ugly stock AM4 cooler.
> 
> 
> View attachment 300106
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temps dropped about 15C, and it's much quieter now. :thumb:


If I was ever to switch to soft tubing, not that I would because I love acrylic to much, but, your tubing looks great. My nephew uses: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50273 I think its the same one you're using
Its been 2 years and no leach at all.

Is that the black copper block, I got one while ago, but never used it, It looks freakishly nice.


----------



## chas1723

valvehead said:


> My CPU block just arrived today. Finally I got to remove that noisy and somewhat ugly stock AM4 cooler.
> 
> 
> View attachment 300106
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temps dropped about 15C, and it's much quieter now. :thumb:


You have done a very similar build to what I was planning. I have a 3800x/x570 Taichi showing up today. Eventually when new video cards come out, I plan heatkiller IV black copper CPU and heatkiller IV acetyl GPU for a black and silver there. How are you liking the setup?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Arctucas

Got my Heatkiller IV Pro Nickel block from ModMyMods. Waiting on a few more parts to do the direct die setup.

Thanks to Jakob for pointing me in the right direction. Rep+


----------



## valvehead

NewUser16 said:


> If I was ever to switch to soft tubing, not that I would because I love acrylic to much, but, your tubing looks great. My nephew uses: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50273 I think its the same one you're using
> Its been 2 years and no leach at all.
> 
> Is that the black copper block, I got one while ago, but never used it, It looks freakishly nice.


I haven't tried acrylic yet. I have some tube and a bunch of fittings so that I can get my work PC under water, but I haven't tried bending yet. I'm trying to plan out the loop so that I can have only a single bend in each tube. I think I might be able to pull it off.

My CPU block has an acetal top. I didn't really feel like spending the extra money for the black copper since you're unlikely to tell the difference unless you look really closely.



chas1723 said:


> You have done a very similar build to what I was planning. I have a 3800x/x570 Taichi showing up today. Eventually when new video cards come out, I plan heatkiller IV black copper CPU and heatkiller IV acetyl GPU for a black and silver there. How are you liking the setup?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I'm enjoying the setup quite well. The basic layout of the loop hasn't changed much since I first assembled it back in 2011. There are only a few minor things I want to change, one of which is the location of the flow meter. Currently it's mounted vertically between the res and the pump. This puts the res up high near the rad fans, and it's a little difficult to get the tube from the fill bottle in there. If I move the flow meter after the pump before the GPU, then I can get a taller res in there and still have more space to fill it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

valvehead said:


> Thanks! it's EK ZMT tubing. No more plasticizer leaching!


We also carry our own brand of EPDM tubing in 13/10 and 16/10, if anybody wants to look into that as well 




valvehead said:


> My CPU block has an acetal top. I didn't really feel like spending the extra money for the black copper since you're unlikely to tell the difference unless you look really closely.


The visual difference between the two is subtle, but existent: the black copper top is milled from solid copper, then plated with a black nickel. It is still a metalic surface, so it reflects light. It really shows in illuminated casemods! The acetal top is made from plastic, so it will never light up and sparkle just as the black copper one will. Performance wise, the copper top obviously has the longer lifespan, and will also help in spreading the heat load over the whole water channel.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We also carry our own brand of EPDM tubing in 13/10 and 16/10, if anybody wants to look into that as well


That's the plan i have in my mind, maybe i'll need about +700€ on your shop when xmas money is finally here. 



Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

I was in the process of gathering up the parts for the X299 Apex VRM that i was going to give to my friend but I can't remember what the screws were. Also my friend might need to get new thermal pads as mine are starting to wear down. What were the thickness of them (I guess 0.5mm). I can't find the manual online and I threw mine out long time ago. Thanks for your help


----------



## scgt1

Is there any tech testing data on the Heatkiller IV RTX 2080 TI block vs other blocks? I'm having a tough time finding comparison information. Swapping over cases to the Antec TORQUE and it's sat on my kitchen table so long I'm moving out my dual GTX 1080FTW's for a single EVGA RTX 2080 TI XC Ultra. Torn between the mentioned block in Acetel/Nickel or the Acrylic/Nickel so the nickel matches my IV PRO cpu block along with the accents on my MXIF mobo and the EK Vector RTX RE 2080 TI block which is going to be a very close fit in relation to my res/pump. Wish I had both Heatkiller blocks in hand to see how they look with my build. LOL 

Was hard to move away from my custom powder coated and painted Carbide Air 540 build. Sorry about the sloppy quality quick photo on the TORQUE only one i have right now as I haven't taken any others of the whole build. This one is about a month old lol yet it's still sitting in the same place. My fiance is starting to grumble about the table and kitchen counters being overrun with parts and boxes so I gotta come up with something soon or it and maybe me will be outside. LOL


----------



## Section31

I know they compared bunch of 2080ti gpu water blocks but nothing about cross generation. Those results are for blocks at launch, since then couple more have been released

Tomhardware germany did one. Basically the heatkiller was 2-3degrees cooler than the ekwb and aquacomputer was about 1-2degree cooler then heatkiller. Bykski performed the same as Ekwb. Bitspower, Phantek, Corsair, Optimus blocks werent out yet.


----------



## sharyn

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I'm sorry about that. Caseking is planned for next week, I'll make sure that this part is integrated into that shipment.


Nice, ty Jakob


----------



## scgt1

Section31 said:


> I know they compared bunch of 2080ti gpu water blocks but nothing about cross generation. Those results are for blocks at launch, since then couple more have been released
> 
> Tomhardware germany did one. Basically the heatkiller was 2-3degrees cooler than the ekwb and aquacomputer was about 1-2degree cooler then heatkiller. Bykski performed the same as Ekwb. Bitspower, Phantek, Corsair, Optimus blocks werent out yet.


Nice to know about the Heatkiller vs EK but that was more then likely the original design and not the RE model which they "claim" to have better cooling performance. LOL Yet can't find anything to back it up anywhere as to what the difference is. I don't really like the looks of any other blocks available although never heard of Optimus. Corsair just needs to go home as their block is hideous! My opinion anyway. LOL Never been a fan of the old school chunky finned heatsink design with an acrylic or any other block slapped in between. To me those always look like they just did the minimum in design and went for basic function. I mean I get what fins do and their purpose I just don't think they belong on GPU blocks as they never look good to me. I'm more of a smooth refined full cover block kinda guy.


----------



## Section31

I had the link but yeah it needs updating. The tester was igorlabs i am certain. https://www.igorslab.media/corsair-...rtx-2080-ti-mit-380-watt-einstand-gelungen/2/ Looks like he updated his testing with some more blocks. Though imo, all the blocks are all going to work well. Its about what looks best in you rig. 

Cosair design is kind of polarizing. I prefer heatkiller myself but still good thing having more players. Each person has there own thoughts and design rig that suits them.more Also enhances and expands interest among the community. Its going to be difficult to develop something that significantly drops temperatures without working with the intel/amd/nvidia directly on the design level.


----------



## SoMBrA

Hello everyone! Long time since my last post here  @Watercool-Jakob did you release Nickel backplates for the 2080ti Waterblock? :O
I think you mentioned last year that it was planed ...


----------



## Ashcroft

scgt1 said:


> Nice to know about the Heatkiller vs EK but that was more then likely the original design and not the RE model which they "claim" to have better cooling performance. LOL Yet can't find anything to back it up anywhere as to what the difference is. I don't really like the looks of any other blocks available although never heard of Optimus. Corsair just needs to go home as their block is hideous! My opinion anyway. LOL Never been a fan of the old school chunky finned heatsink design with an acrylic or any other block slapped in between. To me those always look like they just did the minimum in design and went for basic function. I mean I get what fins do and their purpose I just don't think they belong on GPU blocks as they never look good to me. I'm more of a smooth refined full cover block kinda guy.


Doing a decent GPU block comparo test is a big commitment that takes a lot of time and money if you risk your own card testing. Testing has wrecked cards before and its difficult to get any sort of sponsorship for something so niche.

All the tests to date really show how close all the major brands are unless there is a significant design difference in one like XSPC had one time with no active flow over the VRM section.
Honestly you are better off buying whatever looks best or suits the look you are after best. It will make you much happier in the long run.


----------



## Vlada011

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Finally got my x299 apex heatkiller copper plexi vrm block pretty
> Not a bad turn around direct from watercool 8 working days


Great, forgot on Monoblocks, if you need active cooling as X299 motherboards buy separate Watercool.de VRM block and that's it.
For X299 I would bought as well, for Z390 Heatkiller IV Pro is enough.


----------



## Filters83

Hi all i have a question, actually i have a custom water loop whit EK supremacy Evo on my Ryzen 5 3600X but im not so happy, on the old 2600x was working great but now ... whit liquid metal on stock+pbo i reach 70c on Cb20 and like 75C on prime 95 small FTT max heat test ( AVX disabled ).
So im wondering it worth to move on a Heatkiller 4 pro ? Can make difference ? I already know the problem is the Die of the cpu not centered and this is the real problem, so this heatkiller compared to my Ek supremacy Evo have more fins to better cover this particular new Ryzen 3000 chipset ?
Thx in advance


----------



## jvillaveces

Hi Jakob, I have a couple of questions before I make my final decision on watercooling for my next build:

- Does Watercool have mosfet or chipset blocks for the MSI MEG X570 Godlike?
- Are you planning a monoblock for that board?
- Is the nickel backplate for the reference 2080ti block finally available?

Thanks!


----------



## Vlada011

NewUser16 said:


> If I was ever to switch to soft tubing, not that I would because I love acrylic to much, but, your tubing looks great. My nephew uses: http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/50273 I think its the same one you're using
> Its been 2 years and no leach at all.
> 
> Is that the black copper block, I got one while ago, but never used it, It looks freakishly nice.



You have him... Hooohooo... best CPU block, Heatkiller IV Black Copper. 
I love him so much. In live is probably even nicer then on pictures.


----------



## Hale59

@Watercool-Jakob and everyone else,

ROG CROSSHAIR VII HERO...did anyone install water blocks on VRM/MOSFET/CHIPSET? If yes, are there any photos?

I *want* to but need some guidance. Thanks


----------



## Hale59

Filters83 said:


> Hi all i have a question, actually i have a custom water loop whit EK supremacy Evo on my Ryzen 5 3600X but im not so happy, on the old 2600x was working great but now ... whit liquid metal on stock+pbo i reach 70c on Cb20 and like 75C on prime 95 small FTT max heat test ( AVX disabled ).
> So im wondering it worth to move on a Heatkiller 4 pro ? Can make difference ? I already know the problem is the Die of the cpu not centered and this is the real problem, so this heatkiller compared to my Ek supremacy Evo have more fins to better cover this particular new Ryzen 3000 chipset ?
> Thx in advance


https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-399.html#post28153410


----------



## Filters83

Hale59 said:


> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-399.html#post28153410


I already read this but still dont answer my question  
Can i improve compared to my EK evo or is similar like 2 or 3 C ? I mean if is 10C better is worth but if not im not gonna spend more money


----------



## Hale59

Filters83 said:


> I already read this but still dont answer my question
> Can i improve compared to my EK evo or is similar like 2 or 3 C ? I mean if is 10C better is worth but if not im not gonna spend more money


You are asking a question about an EK product on the Heatkiller Club. Don't!! Rather ask that question somewhere else.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Filters83 said:


> I already read this but still dont answer my question
> Can i improve compared to my EK evo or is similar like 2 or 3 C ? I mean if is 10C better is worth but if not im not gonna spend more money





Hale59 said:


> You are asking a question about an EK product on the Heatkiller Club. Don't!! Rather ask that question somewhere else.



I believe that may be a valid question for this forum. He is asking is the Heatkiller product sufficiently better than his existing EK product to warrant spending additional monies buying new Heatkiller gear.

The difference may be more an aesthetic issue than a cooling efficiency issue.


----------



## Filters83

InfoSeeker said:


> Filters83 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I already read this but still dont answer my question /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> Can i improve compared to my EK evo or is similar like 2 or 3 C ? I mean if is 10C better is worth but if not im not gonna spend more money /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hale59 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You are asking a question about an EK product on the Heatkiller Club. Don't!! Rather ask that question somewhere else.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I believe that may be a valid question for this forum. He is asking is the Heatkiller product sufficiently better than his existing EK product to warrant spending additional monies buying new Heatkiller gear.
> 
> The difference may be more an aesthetic issue than a cooling efficiency issue.
Click to expand...

Thx god Someone able TO read
I already look for comparison but i found only couple and its not about a ryzen 3000 cpu, so i was wondering if Someone have already did test whit on this cpu. 
Looking at dismounted block, appear that the heatkiller have more and larger fins coverage thats why i was curiopus and in relation to that igor laboratory test 

Sry for my bad eng and thx


----------



## ThrashZone

Filters83 said:


> Thx god Someone able TO read
> I already look for comparison but i found only couple and its not about a ryzen 3000 cpu, so i was wondering if Someone have already did test whit on this cpu.
> Looking at dismounted block, appear that the heatkiller have more and larger fins coverage thats why i was curiopus and in relation to that igor laboratory test
> 
> Sry for my bad eng and thx


Hi,
Heatkiller iv pro is a lot better than ek evo by more than just looks and build quality 

Evo has a lot of water escape routes it can take I do have a couple evo's if you don't believe this test it yourself 
Disassemble flip razor blade jet plate the opposite direction or tape it up and see where the escape route are you might be surprised 

Heatkiller iv pro does not all water goes across the cooling fins and there is no narrow jet plate.

EK does have a newer block but it's not named evo can't remember what it is atm.


----------



## tm.b1ast

Greetings all, long time lurker dipping my toes into custom loops. I've been using a Noctua DH-15s for a while now but want to build a new rig for good CPU overclocking. 

I plan on grabbing a Heatkiller IV Black Copper and pairing it to an Apex XI/9900ks. I've been researching water cooling for a little while now reading stuff on Martins Liquid Lab/lots of stuff here and have some questions to clear up. First one being -- I've read that VRM waterblocks are fairly useless for high tier boards, at best they provide little value and at worst they can fry your mobo. I wanted to confirm if this was accurate because like with everything ever, the vast majority of information has caveats, especially on the high end of things/with people who know what they're talking about. 

An aside: I won't be cooling a GPU in this loop. 

Originally I had planned to pickup a Phanteks P600s because from what I understand it's a solid air cooling case but when the ks was announced I figured I'd try to hit 5.5ghz so that kind of went out the window. Lately I've been eyeing the Lian Li O11 Dynamic but because I'm so new to the water cooling domain I want to make sure this would be a solid case. 

For rads I was looking at HWlabs GTR/GTX series. Just to clear this up -- for avoiding corrosion it's essential that your waterblock and rads are the same types of metal correct? AKA copper blocks and aluminum rads are a big no-no? Additionally, if I'm cooling just the CPU would I see any realistic benefit going from a 240 to 360 rad? And if I'm running a 54mm thick rad would I need to push-pull or should I just get really strong static pressure fans?

Admittedly I still don't know much about pumps. Any advice/info is greatly appreciated!


----------



## D-EJ915

tm.b1ast said:


> I plan on grabbing a Heatkiller IV Black Copper and pairing it to an Apex XI/9900ks. I've been researching water cooling for a little while now reading stuff on Martins Liquid Lab/lots of stuff here and have some questions to clear up. First one being -- I've read that VRM waterblocks are fairly useless for high tier boards, at best they provide little value and at worst they can fry your mobo. I wanted to confirm if this was accurate because like with everything ever, the vast majority of information has caveats, especially on the high end of things/with people who know what they're talking about.


You won't need a VRM waterblock for the Apex XI.

For distilled you can get anti corrosive and anti microbials like what mayhems sells. If you are using a premix most have those included in them already. Push/pull helps but you could always install with one set and then add more fans if necessary. IMO increasing radiator size is a better thing to do than add double the fans for the money.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Section31 said:


> I was in the process of gathering up the parts for the X299 Apex VRM that i was going to give to my friend but I can't remember what the screws were. Also my friend might need to get new thermal pads as mine are starting to wear down. What were the thickness of them (I guess 0.5mm). I can't find the manual online and I threw mine out long time ago. Thanks for your help


The original screws of that block areM3x14 DIN7991. The pads are 2 pieces of 90x8x1mm.




SoMBrA said:


> Hello everyone! Long time since my last post here
> @*Watercool-Jakob* did you release Nickel backplates for the 2080ti Waterblock? :O
> I think you mentioned last year that it was planed ...


Not quite yet... Will be released in 2019, I promise 




jvillaveces said:


> Hi Jakob, I have a couple of questions before I make my final decision on watercooling for my next build:
> 
> - Does Watercool have mosfet or chipset blocks for the MSI MEG X570 Godlike?
> - Are you planning a monoblock for that board?
> - Is the nickel backplate for the reference 2080ti block finally available?
> 
> Thanks!


1. We do have universal chipset blocks. We also have universal VRM blocks that require customization by you. We do not have a tailored solution for this board, though.
2. No, we don't.
3. See above: will be released soon 




Hale59 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* and everyone else,
> 
> ROG CROSSHAIR VII HERO...did anyone install water blocks on VRM/MOSFET/CHIPSET? If yes, are there any photos?
> 
> I *want* to but need some guidance. Thanks


I don't know about Crosshair Vii. But there is this custom mod for the Crosshair VIII:




The installation of the block itself is pretty straightforward: remove the stock heatsink, turn the block till you can line up the holding brackets with the mounting holes 




Filters83 said:


> I already read this but still dont answer my question
> Can i improve compared to my EK evo or is similar like 2 or 3 C ? I mean if is 10C better is worth but if not im not gonna spend more money


The most recent CPU block comparison that I am aware of is from @customrigsde. He compared to an EK Velocity, which the successor of the Evo, and our block beat that, as well. Keep in mind that that review is on an intel i7-8700k, so results on a Zen2 chip WILL vary.
But based on this, I am pretty confident that yes, you will see measurable improvement over your current block. I cannot predict how much, though, and it will most definitely not be close to 10K.




tm.b1ast said:


> Greetings all, long time lurker dipping my toes into custom loops. I've been using a Noctua DH-15s for a while now but want to build a new rig for good CPU overclocking.
> 
> I plan on grabbing a Heatkiller IV Black Copper and pairing it to an Apex XI/9900ks. I've been researching water cooling for a little while now reading stuff on Martins Liquid Lab/lots of stuff here and have some questions to clear up. First one being -- I've read that VRM waterblocks are fairly useless for high tier boards, at best they provide little value and at worst they can fry your mobo. I wanted to confirm if this was accurate because like with everything ever, the vast majority of information has caveats, especially on the high end of things/with people who know what they're talking about.
> 
> An aside: I won't be cooling a GPU in this loop.
> 
> Originally I had planned to pickup a Phanteks P600s because from what I understand it's a solid air cooling case but when the ks was announced I figured I'd try to hit 5.5ghz so that kind of went out the window. Lately I've been eyeing the Lian Li O11 Dynamic but because I'm so new to the water cooling domain I want to make sure this would be a solid case.
> 
> For rads I was looking at HWlabs GTR/GTX series. Just to clear this up -- for avoiding corrosion it's essential that your waterblock and rads are the same types of metal correct? AKA copper blocks and aluminum rads are a big no-no? Additionally, if I'm cooling just the CPU would I see any realistic benefit going from a 240 to 360 rad? And if I'm running a 54mm thick rad would I need to push-pull or should I just get really strong static pressure fans?
> 
> Admittedly I still don't know much about pumps. Any advice/info is greatly appreciated!



VRM blocks:
It highly depends on the platform: on X299, the VRM blocks were really bad, and waterblocks made a lot of sense. The same goes for the first generation of Threadripper X399 boards. But on Z270 boards and up, most VRM solutions are sufficient. On the other hand, the stock blocks require airflow over them to be efficient. This airflow is usually created by the CPU cooler - if you change that for a waterblock, there is no more airflow, which can heavily impact the VRM stock cooler's performance. This, again, can be countered by a water block... So, it's a "yes, but..., but then..." kinda answer for your platform.



Case: 

The O11 Dynamic is a great case to display your hardware. It does have good functionality, as well, so it's a solid choice. 



Materials: 

Simply put: avoid any aluminum contacting your fluid. That's it, you're good to go. Copper, Nickel, and bass are so close to each other that they can be considered compatible with each other. Add some kind of corrosion inhibitor, and you should never have a problem at all. 



Rads: 

As a rule of thumb, more surface always beats more thickness. So if possible, yes, do upgrade to a 360 rad. A standard 360 rad will perform better than a thick 240 rad, unless you SIGNIFICANTLY go up with the fan speed (or go push/pull). When in doubt, I would always try to improve surface area rather than thickness or fan speed. _I_PERSONALLY_ came in watercooling because I hated fan noise, and by improving the surface area, you can keep fan speed and noise relatively low.

And yes, this basic thinking obviously leads to a MO-RA3, which is simply the best solution for everybody 


Pumps:
Don't overthink it. A D5 is the best pump currently available for ~80% of the use-cases.


----------



## Vlada011

MO-RA3 Pro Stainless Steal is best exterior watercooling variant recommended for people who want liquid cooling hardware in small Mini ITX Case.
Special if customer connect quick disconnect fittings on back of the case.
To cooldown high end hardware example in Lian Li PC-Q37 you need MO-RA3.

If some boards need VRM Cooling that's X299 Series.
Actually they need more liquid cooling then any other Intel chipset last 10 years.
I can't remember, but I think manufactureres never re-design VRM cooling because problems at the beginning.
And now when guys decide to OC Cascade Lake-X its nice if they can use small VRM cooling on Apex and similar boards.

Situation is more serious if people try to OC best processors on cheaper mobo models.
Most expensive models are better protected. EVGA X299 Dark example have active cooling and it's easier to use only Heatkiller IV PRO CPU Block.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
lol yeah thought he would post a realistic rad system for a single case not dual


----------



## Hale59

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I don't know about Crosshair Vii. But there is this custom mod for the Crosshair VIII:
> https://youtu.be/wxiGEiqn-nU
> The installation of the block itself is pretty straightforward: remove the stock heatsink, turn the block till you can line up the holding brackets with the mounting holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Does not help.
I will use that chipset cooler on the VII.
What I need you to tell me is what blocks to use in the VRMs and Mosfets.


----------



## Hale59

Filters83 said:


> I already read this but still dont answer my question
> Can i improve compared to my EK evo or is similar like 2 or 3 C ? I mean if is 10C better is worth but if not im not gonna spend more money


Did you read you private message?
Anyway, here are the results of another test done for Intel at more or less the same time.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hale59 said:


> Does not help.
> I will use that chipset cooler on the VII.
> What I need you to tell me is what blocks to use in the VRMs and Mosfets.


As I said in the very same post, just one line above what you quoted: we do have a lineup of universal VRM blocks. These need to be adjusted by the customer to the specific situation present on their motherboard. This can include filing, but will definitely require the customer to drill the mounting holes in the copper baseplate to mount it on his individual motherboard.


We do not have dedicated blocks for the Crosshair VII.


----------



## Filters83

Hale59 said:


> Did you read you private message?
> Anyway, here are the results of another test done for Intel at more or less the same time.


Ye thx all for answer but due to the specific Ryzen3000 setup i would prefer specific test  
I will keep try and if i decide to buy one i will do my self the comparison!


----------



## Krisztias

Dear @Watercool-Jakob

is it normal, that my Heatkiller IV Pro AMD Waterblock spins on the table? Shouldn't be flat?


----------



## chibi

Hi everyone, is there an option to get the Copper Coldplate 2080 Ti GPU Block + Black Acrylic Window? I only see the Copper Cold Plate + Silver Acrylic Window option.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Krisztias said:


> Dear @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> is it normal, that my Heatkiller IV Pro AMD Waterblock spins on the table? Shouldn't be flat?


Yes, this is normal. The HK IV blocks have a very slightly convex coldplate, as internal tests showed that this is the optimal setup.




chibi said:


> Hi everyone, is there an option to get the Copper Coldplate 2080 Ti GPU Block + Black Acrylic Window? I only see the Copper Cold Plate + Silver Acrylic Window option.


Please send an email to [email protected] with this request and your full shipping address incl phone number.


----------



## Vlada011

Not only Heatkiller CPU block, same is situation with many CPU Coolers.
Thermal paste resolve that. 
In past people sometimes polish IHS or plate on Air coolers to mirror finish.
It's not necessary. Best result is off course completely removing IHS. OC Frame or CPU Guard depend on model protect die from hard pressure.
Nothing can compare with installation block directly on die, only liquid metal should be avoided because could damage block surface.


----------



## TheArkratos

Any word on a new CPU block that supports RGB out of the box? (AM4)


----------



## Wonderboy9610

Hi Jakob, I dropped you a PM regarding my order. Can help me take alook?


----------



## Vlada011

Caseking.de is German seller... and I sent them request to order D5-Vario WCP with Speed Control from Watercool.de.
I want to buy that pump. Caseking.de have office in Hungary, and my friends visit there every week and bring me parts without shipping cost etc...
Only regular price from site. If I go on Heatkiller 100 D5 and I would like to have D5-Vario WCP... and Caseking offer only EKWB D5 Lowara.
That's good pump, same, only not modified bottom and why to pay them if WCP is nicer. 
As German seller Aqua Computer and Watercool.de should have priority.


----------



## GAN77

Hi, *Watercool-Jakob*!
Hi *guys*!


Is it important to keep the input / output ports connected? Or can I connect an input to an output? Have you had internal testing of the connection method?

Thank!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Reversing designed flow is silly.


----------



## Krisztias

Krisztias said:


> Can you tell us when the C8H/C8HW Chipset waterblock is coming?





Watercool-Jakob said:


> They are scheduled for late October!


I would like to order my sample  Can you tell when can I push the "Add to basket" button?


----------



## Wonderboy9610

Hi guy, can I check I am using Lian Li XL case. Will be using hardwarelab SR2 at the bottom with gts 360 at the top and the side. Do you think the Heatkiller Res 200 D5 will be able to fit? Or should I go for the 150 D5


----------



## GAN77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Reversing designed flow is silly.


I saw such an assembly. Reversing designed flow.

I would like to hear a comment *Watercool-Jakob*


----------



## InfoSeeker

GAN77 said:


> I saw such an assembly. Reversing designed flow.
> 
> I would like to hear a comment *Watercool-Jakob*



I believe Jakob addresses this in his last comment in THIS THREAD.


----------



## GAN77

InfoSeeker said:


> I believe Jakob addresses this in his last comment in THIS THREAD.


Thank!

*Jakob*:_We usually see a temp drop in the 3-5° range. _

I think, 3-5° it's a lot.


----------



## Wonderboy9610

Hi! Can I check for the led strips on the reservoir. Can I just buy from watercool directly and mount it on the struts without having the cut outs? I know when I buy the res one of the struts will have the cut out to put the led strip.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

TheArkratos said:


> Any word on a new CPU block that supports RGB out of the box? (AM4)


Nope, no news on this front. It is planned to be integrated in the next generation, but absolutely no idea when that will be released. 




GAN77 said:


> Hi, *Watercool-Jakob*!
> Hi *guys*!
> 
> 
> Is it important to keep the input / output ports connected? Or can I connect an input to an output? Have you had internal testing of the connection method?
> 
> Thank!


If you use reverse flow, you will have slightly worse temps on the DIE. It heavily depends on the GPU you are using, but usually isn't significant. 




Krisztias said:


> I would like to order my sample  Can you tell when can I push the "Add to basket" button?


No release date yet, I'm sorry.




Wonderboy9610 said:


> Hi guy, can I check I am using Lian Li XL case. Will be using hardwarelab SR2 at the bottom with gts 360 at the top and the side. Do you think the Heatkiller Res 200 D5 will be able to fit? Or should I go for the 150 D5


Please take your own measurements and then compare them to this drawing:











Wonderboy9610 said:


> Hi! Can I check for the led strips on the reservoir. Can I just buy from watercool directly and mount it on the struts without having the cut outs? I know when I buy the res one of the struts will have the cut out to put the led strip.


No, you cannot place an LED strip between a strut without cutout and the glass. That's why we integrated the cutout...


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob said:


> If you use reverse flow, you will have slightly worse temps on the DIE. It heavily depends on the GPU you are using, but usually isn't significant.


I use in assembly HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti.
But I found a solution for standard connection)


----------



## Vlada011

Why Caseking not import Watercool.de D5 Vario WCP?
Buyer for my EKWB kit wait me to find new pump-res for me. 
I could buy Heatkiller 100 Tube but not D5 Vario WCP because Caseking not sell them. 

It's nice chance because at the end I switch from EKWB to Heatkiller will cost me only 30 euro.
And mounting kit for Heatkiller. It would be nice to Caseking sell D5 Vario WCP. I sent them message and asked them.


----------



## sharyn

sharyn said:


> Hi Jakob
> Can you tell me when we can expect this item http://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14072 on caseking.de
> My order is on hold until that item arrives


Ty for your help @Watercool-Jakob . Arrived last week and it's already installed.


----------



## Bart

Watercool-Jakob: silly question, regarding your anodized back plates. Assuming you do your own anodizing in-house, is it possible to get them anodized in anything other than black?


----------



## ProRules

Hey Jakob, are there any pictures of the 5700 XT blocks? coming out 15th this month. (I've seen only render images).
There are apparently 4 blocks for 5700 XT on watercool.de while two of them contain render images, and two don't have any at all.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Vlada011 said:


> Why Caseking not import Watercool.de D5 Vario WCP?


I can't comment on the buying policy of third party companies. We offer it to them, it's their choice if they want to order it. If you want them tocarry it, please contact them directly. 




Bart said:


> Watercool-Jakob: silly question, regarding your anodized back plates. Assuming you do your own anodizing in-house, is it possible to get them anodized in anything other than black?


We do not make the plating or anodizing in house, this is done by an external subcontractor. We currently do not want to offer additional colors.
If you want to anodize a backplate on a custom color yourself, please contact [email protected], and we can arrange to ship a raw aluzminum backplate to you - you can then have it anodized locally, if you want to. 




ProRules said:


> Hey Jakob, are there any pictures of the 5700 XT blocks? coming out 15th this month. (I've seen only render images).
> There are apparently 4 blocks for 5700 XT on watercool.de while two of them contain render images, and two don't have any at all.


There are 5 different blocks. No, we don't have real world pictures of them yet. Yes, as soon as the photoshooting is done, I will edit the products, and will also post the pics here.






Announcement:
Starting this Friday, we carry the Noctua NF-A20 PWM chromax.black.swap 800rpm (200x200x30) fans that many of you have been waiting for! These fans are the perfect combination for our MO-RA3 420 radiators!
*
*


----------



## Bart

Another question for you Jakub! I see via Daz that you guys are making radiators now, I had no clue, LOL! What's the difference between the LT and LTX versions of your new radiator line?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Bart said:


> Another question for you Jakub! I see via Daz that you guys are making radiators now, I had no clue, LOL! What's the difference between the LT and LTX versions of your new radiator line?


Well, we've been making the HTSF2 radiators since 2012... The long sides of the LT radiators are made from black powdercoated steel, where the LTX uses stainless steel. So it's a color option, really.


----------



## ProRules

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, we've been making the HTSF2 radiators since 2012... The long sides of the LT radiators are made from black powdercoated steel, where the LTX uses stainless steel. So it's a color option, really.


Is there a plan to make copper fins instead of aluminum on htsf2 radiators? 
Man i love the look of Watercool. It fits so well together with those rads + blocks.
After i had some equipment from different manufacturers, I must say that Watercool and Aquacomputer have the best quality.
EK and bitspower are nowhere close... I've never seen such a perfect finish ever before.


----------



## shiokarai

So... I've removed my Heatkiller IV Pro Intel block yesterday and to my surprise, it seems that the block isn't making a proper contact with CPU IHS??? Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero, CPU: i9-9900KS, Block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel. I've reseated the block - same thing, checked the manual etc. - everything is being done properly. So the question is - is this supposed to be like this? ie. block not making the contact with IHS on the whole surface? Or do I have a bad block/IHS? (everything stock, nothing modified). Pics in attachments


----------



## KedarWolf

Does a Heatkiller Pro come with an 1151 mounting kit, or do I need to order it separately?


----------



## ThrashZone

KedarWolf said:


> Does a Heatkiller Pro come with an 1151 mounting kit, or do I need to order it separately?


Hi,
Compatible with Intel sockets period.
https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18002



> Water coolers from the HEATKILLER® CPU series are among the most popular and top-selling CPU water coolers. Ever since the launch of the first HEATKILLER® CPU water cooler in 2001, the series has been constantly improved and optimised. The HEATKILLER® IV presents the most extensive alterations, so far.
> 
> The focus of innovation was the new cooling structure. Finer micro fins greatly enlarge the contact surface of cooling liquid and cooler. Flow characteristics became optimised as well. These changes increased the cooling performance by up to 3°C compared to the predecessor. The flow efficiency benefits too supported by large-volume receptacles. The HEATKILLER® IV features a real high flow design, making it perfectly suitable also for lower performing pumps.
> 
> By the way, the new cooling structure completely does without a jet plate. This improves the cooler's reliability because less dust particles can accumulate within the cooling structure.
> 
> The HEATKILLER® IV also comes up with an improved feature set. This includes the comfortable Easy-Mount-System. After initial installation, the cooler can be mounted or de-mounted tool-free at any time without the need to dismount the mainboard as well. And the mounting brackets do now precisely define the contact pressure, thus mounting errors virtually do not appear.
> 
> If you prefer big fittings, you will be glad to hear of the enlarged distance between the G 1/4” threads – which is now 25mm. This makes the HEATKILLER® IV compatible with all common thread types, up to the size of 19/13.
> 
> The HEATKILLER® IV is a product “made in Germany”, manufactured on state-of-the-art CNC machines at the Watercool headquarters.
> 
> Specifications:
> Material: Copper (top, bottom plate), polished stainless steel (brackets, inlay), nickel-plated brass ( Easy-Mount-System)
> Dimensions (L x W x H): 66 x 59 x 17 mm
> Weight: ca. 450 g
> Sealing: NBR 70
> Threads: 2x G ¼ inch (DIN ISO 228-1)
> Thread distance: 25 mm
> *Socket compatibility INTEL:1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 1366, 2011, 2011-3, 2066*
> 
> Included:
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) PURE COPPER
> Mounting material / Manual


----------



## chibi

shiokarai said:


> So... I've removed my Heatkiller IV Pro Intel block yesterday and to my surprise, it seems that the block isn't making a proper contact with CPU IHS??? Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero, CPU: i9-9900KS, Block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel. I've reseated the block - same thing, checked the manual etc. - everything is being done properly. So the question is - is this supposed to be like this? ie. block not making the contact with IHS on the whole surface? Or do I have a bad block/IHS? (everything stock, nothing modified). Pics in attachments



Get a razor blade and check the surface of the block for any uneven spots. Do the same for the CPU. You will most likely find your CPU is slightly convex which is why you do not see full coverage. Easy to blame the Heatkiller block, but after some testing you will see it's not the case. :thumb:

There's a youtube video about the CPU Spin Test which will also help to diagnose the problem.


----------



## shiokarai

chibi said:


> Get a razor blade and check the surface of the block for any uneven spots. Do the same for the CPU. You will most likely find your CPU is slightly convex which is why you do not see full coverage. Easy to blame the Heatkiller block, but after some testing you will see it's not the case. :thumb:
> 
> There's a youtube video about the CPU Spin Test which will also help to diagnose the problem.


I'm not blaming the Heatkiller block - I'm just curious if it's the normal, expected TIM spread with this block on the 9900ks or is there something wrong? afaik, intel IHS are concave so the water blocks are slightly convex (Heatkiller, EK etc.) - but I wonder if it's true with 9900k/s and what can be done about it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Either way you used way too much thermal paste


----------



## shiokarai

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Either way you used way too much thermal paste


Got anything helpful to add or just casually ****posting?

ps. please educate yourself:


----------



## chibi

shiokarai said:


> I'm not blaming the Heatkiller block - I'm just curious if it's the normal, expected TIM spread with this block on the 9900ks or is there something wrong? afaik, intel IHS are concave so the water blocks are slightly convex (Heatkiller, EK etc.) - but I wonder if it's true with 9900k/s and what can be done about it.



I can let you know in a few weeks. I have a KS and Heatkiller IV CPU block coming and will get back to you. :thumb:


----------



## ThrashZone

shiokarai said:


> Got anything helpful to add or just casually ****posting?
> 
> ps. please educate yourself:


Hi,
That dude is obviously a grunge slob just like you are :thumb:


----------



## ALSTER868

Hey Watercool-Jakob

Not sure if I'm asking this in the right thread, but could you please help with fans for MO-RA3 420 LT?
I'd like to use 4x200 (230) mm fans with MO-RA3 420 Bracket for 180-230 mm Fans, and you have some new Noctua NF-A20 PWM chromax.black.swap 800rpm or Bitfenix Spectrix 230 mm in your online shop recomended for this version of the rad. The question is whether this 200-230 mm/30 mm thick fans will fit under a fan grill. The fan grill is mandatory in my case. AFAIK only 25 mm thick and 230 mm fans can fit in there so my main concern is the 30 mm thickness.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## ProRules

shiokarai said:


> So... I've removed my Heatkiller IV Pro Intel block yesterday and to my surprise, it seems that the block isn't making a proper contact with CPU IHS??? Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero, CPU: i9-9900KS, Block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel. I've reseated the block - same thing, checked the manual etc. - everything is being done properly. So the question is - is this supposed to be like this? ie. block not making the contact with IHS on the whole surface? Or do I have a bad block/IHS? (everything stock, nothing modified). Pics in attachments


Quote from Watercool Jakob: "Yes, this is normal. The HK IV blocks have a very slightly convex coldplate, as internal tests showed that this is the optimal setup"
(from page 406)


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

shiokarai said:


> So... I've removed my Heatkiller IV Pro Intel block yesterday and to my surprise, it seems that the block isn't making a proper contact with CPU IHS??? Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero, CPU: i9-9900KS, Block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel. I've reseated the block - same thing, checked the manual etc. - everything is being done properly. So the question is - is this supposed to be like this? ie. block not making the contact with IHS on the whole surface? Or do I have a bad block/IHS? (everything stock, nothing modified). Pics in attachments


The HEATKILLER coldplate is slightly convex, intentionally. On all previous intel generations, this proved to be the optimal setup. We haven't tested it on a 9900KS ourselves, yet.
The paste imprint that you provided shows that the contact between the block and the area under which the actual DIE is seated is perfect. But the contact on the outer edges of the IHS is less than optimal, indeed. So, I'd expect the thermal performance to be unrestricted - the relevant contact is there, and it's perfect.


But we do thank you for the heads-up, and we will check on it internally!




KedarWolf said:


> Does a Heatkiller Pro come with an 1151 mounting kit, or do I need to order it separately?


Depends. The blocks noted with "INTEL processor" come with a mounting kit for 115X, 1366 and 20XX, but no mounting for AMD. The blocks noted with "AMD processor" come with a mounting kit for 939, 940, AM2, AM3, FM2, AM4, but no mounting kit for intel. So it really depends on which product you're buying.
Sidenote: We do offer conversion kits for both intel and AMD sockets. So if you bought the one system, and want to upgrade to the other later on, you can still do this with this little accessory.




ALSTER868 said:


> Hey Watercool-Jakob
> 
> Not sure if I'm asking this in the right thread, but could you please help with fans for MO-RA3 420 LT?
> I'd like to use 4x200 (230) mm fans with MO-RA3 420 Bracket for 180-230 mm Fans, and you have some new Noctua NF-A20 PWM chromax.black.swap 800rpm or Bitfenix Spectrix 230 mm in your online shop recomended for this version of the rad. The question is whether this 200-230 mm/30 mm thick fans will fit under a fan grill. The fan grill is mandatory in my case. AFAIK only 25 mm thick and 230 mm fans can fit in there so my main concern is the 30 mm thickness.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


The standard fan grills are designed for 25mm fans, that is correct.So when the Noctua NF-A20 became widely popular, we made a special "high version" fan grill, that can house fans up to 37mm thickness. The "high version" grills are also available in black, white, and stainless steel, to match the MO-RA.
The Bitfenix 230mm fans do not fit under the fan grills, at all, as they are to wide (as seen in the adapter bracket pictures).


----------



## shiokarai

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The HEATKILLER coldplate is slightly convex, intentionally. On all previous intel generations, this proved to be the optimal setup. We haven't tested it on a 9900KS ourselves, yet.
> The paste imprint that you provided shows that the contact between the block and the area under which the actual DIE is seated is perfect. But the contact on the outer edges of the IHS is less than optimal, indeed. So, I'd expect the thermal performance to be unrestricted - the relevant contact is there, and it's perfect.
> 
> 
> But we do thank you for the heads-up, and we will check on it internally!


Thanks for the info! It's sure looking like it's touching exactly where the actual CPU die is. I'm in the process of delidding + going direct die with 9900ks (after some more testing) so I assume contact patch like this would pe perfect for direct die? Also, I would assume going with horizontal inlet/outlet would be detrimental with this kind of contact water block is making with my 9900ks? afaik 9900k/s has thicker PCB substrate and die so maybe the actual water block shape is not 100% optimised for it?

Any tips for mounting my heatkiller IV pro with 9900k/s direct die? (I'll be using Rockit Cool direct die guard).


----------



## ALSTER868

> The standard fan grills are designed for 25mm fans, that is correct.So when the Noctua NF-A20 became widely popular, we made a special "high version" fan grill, that can house fans up to 37mm thickness. The "high version" grills are also available in black, white, and stainless steel, to match the MO-RA.
> The Bitfenix 230mm fans do not fit under the fan grills, at all, as they are to wide (as seen in the adapter bracket pictures).


Thanks Jacob.
Can a 27 mm thick 140 mm fan fit under a regular fan grill or the ''high version'' of the grill is required in this case?

Thanks!


----------



## NewType88

ALSTER868 said:


> Thanks Jacob.
> Can a 27 mm thick 140 mm fan fit under a regular fan grill or the ''high version'' of the grill is required in this case?
> 
> Thanks!


All of the dimensions are on their site. The height of the Regular grill is 27mm and the high version is 40mm. I would just get the high version.


----------



## KedarWolf

I received my Heatkiller IV Pro Intel Black Copper CPU waterblock today. 

I'm direct die, but I've had issues with my EK Velocity and direct die.


----------



## shiokarai

KedarWolf said:


> I received my Heatkiller IV Pro Intel Black Copper CPU waterblock today.
> 
> I'm direct die, but I've had issues with my EK Velocity and direct die.


How did you setup your heatkiller IV pro with direct die? any mounting issues/quirks? aby tips? I'm waiting for my rockit cool direct die bracket and then I'm going direct die  Please share the knowledge how it's working for you


----------



## KedarWolf

shiokarai said:


> How did you setup your heatkiller IV pro with direct die? any mounting issues/quirks? aby tips? I'm waiting for my rockit cool direct die bracket and then I'm going direct die  Please share the knowledge how it's working for you


Haven't set it up, yet, but the Rockit kits comes with washers, I'm pretty sure you put one between the Heatkiller backplate and the bottom of the motherboard for each post and you're good to go. It makes up for the distance you lose removing the CPU IHS.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

shiokarai said:


> Thanks for the info! It's sure looking like it's touching exactly where the actual CPU die is. I'm in the process of delidding + going direct die with 9900ks (after some more testing) so I assume contact patch like this would pe perfect for direct die? Also, I would assume going with horizontal inlet/outlet would be detrimental with this kind of contact water block is making with my 9900ks? afaik 9900k/s has thicker PCB substrate and die so maybe the actual water block shape is not 100% optimised for it?
> 
> Any tips for mounting my heatkiller IV pro with 9900k/s direct die? (I'll be using Rockit Cool direct die guard).


I do not know that kit, so I can't make any comments about it. The general problem with removing the IHS is that you lose some height. So you need some kind of solution to make up for that. I don't knmow if the rockit kit does.




ALSTER868 said:


> Thanks Jacob.
> Can a 27 mm thick 140 mm fan fit under a regular fan grill or the ''high version'' of the grill is required in this case?
> 
> Thanks!


No, the regular size is optimized for 25mm fans. I would recommend the "high version".


----------



## KedarWolf

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I do not know that kit, so I can't make any comments about it. The general problem with removing the IHS is that you lose some height. So you need some kind of solution to make up for that. I don't knmow if the rockit kit does.
> 
> 
> 
> No, the regular size is optimized for 25mm fans. I would recommend the "high version".


Like I said earlier, Rockit kit comes with washers you put between the backplate of the mounting kit and the bottom of the motherboard around the posts to make up for the lost height.


----------



## ALSTER868

Hi Jacob,

Is there a real and stringent need for a high static pressure fans for MO-RA3? As far as I see the FPI count should be small (7 to 10 my guess), so almost any more or less decent fan should be able to cope with it. What's your opinion on that?
Which are best value 140 mm fans for MO-RA?

Thanks and sorry for asking about it here, I'm not sure if I could cathch you in other threads


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ALSTER868 said:


> Hi Jacob,
> 
> Is there a real and stringent need for a high static pressure fans for MO-RA3? As far as I see the FPI count should be small (7 to 10 my guess), so almost any more or less decent fan should be able to cope with it. What's your opinion on that?
> Which are best value 140 mm fans for MO-RA?
> 
> Thanks and sorry for asking about it here, I'm not sure if I could cathch you in other threads


That's correct. The MO-RA is optimized for silence, for fan-speeds of 300-800rpm. So no, you do not need high static pressure at all. 



We usually recommend Noiseblocker fans, as our customers usually prioritize noise levels. Other than that, I can't really make any recommendations...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Okay, folks, who's ready for some hardwarep0rn for the weekend? Let me know how you like our new HEATKILLER® IV for Radeon RX 5700 blocks!


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

This beauty looks like a beast !

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## TheArkratos

Beautiful! Also is it single slot? and if so does it come with a single slot bracket?


----------



## Bart

Supersexy as usual!! Love em!


----------



## ProRules




----------



## Section31

The old heatkiller cpu iv block saved my build. I had overheating issues with the optimus block. Still got to investigate the issue on my transplant build to come but good thing i can always rely on heatkiller.


----------



## keeph8n

Most everything in my benching loop is from Watercool.

MO-RA3 420 w/ TT 200mm Fans
200mm Tube D5 w/ D5 NEXT mounted to MO-RA3
All of my blocks for benching are Heatkiller IV Pros
EK ZMT Tubing
Koolance QDCs


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

TheArkratos said:


> Beautiful! Also is it single slot? and if so does it come with a single slot bracket?


No, it's more like 1.3 slots. the split flow design adds a little bit of height to the block... We do sell a single slot bracket for RX Navi separately!




Section31 said:


> The old heatkiller cpu iv block saved my build. I had overheating issues with the optimus block. Still got to investigate the issue on my transplant build to come but good thing i can always rely on heatkiller.


Great to hear that we could help you! Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool planning a black friday in company store?


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

nope they wont do it

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----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Watercool planning a black friday in company store?


We will not run any discounts or promos in 2019. No Black friday, no X-mas. Please check out the various vendors, many of them run discount codes, including our gear.


----------



## Bart

Older gen Threadripper 2950X, with HeatKiller treatment:


----------



## SoMBrA

Oops


----------



## SoMBrA

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Okay, folks, who's ready for some hardwarep0rn for the weekend? Let me know how you like our new HEATKILLER[emoji2400] IV for Radeon RX 5700 blocks


Those look incredible! Any update on the 2080ti nickel backplate? 






Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


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## Watercool-Jakob

SoMBrA said:


> Those look incredible! Any update on the 2080ti nickel backplate?


 Yup. It's available now


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob,

Complete rear panel screws have low strength. I damaged the cap of the hexagon screw.
The complete Allen key has clearances in the screw. Therefore, there is a risk of damage to the faces of the screw. And so it happened.


----------



## ALSTER868

Hey Jacob,

Do I need to flush/rinse my new MO-RA3 radiator before putting it into use? What should I use to clean it? Thanks.


----------



## SoMBrA

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yup. It's available now


Ordered already! Thanks  

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

Thanks Watercool for making excellent products. I have decided to order in another heatkiller CPU IV block for my 3700X. The optimus performed very poorly on the 3900X.


----------



## Vlada011

I'm glad because more and more people are satisfied and because Heatkiller IV Pro and Reservoir series become more popular in 2018-2019 them before.
Heatkiller is only watercooling products I advice and Aqua Computer for monitoring tools if people have more money and want more complicate loop with monitoring of everything.

This is rear situation in PC industry where people don't need to pay stuff build in China.
Aqua Computer Germany
Watercool Germany
Bitspower Taiwan
HW Labs Philippines 
everything else is Made in China and combination of Watercool blocks and reservoir, Aqua Computer monitoring tools, Bitspower fittings and HW Labs radiators is best watercooling equipment money could buy.

You only could be happy if someone could give you such advice when you build loop first time.


----------



## iamjanco

ALSTER868 said:


> Hey Jacob,
> 
> Do I need to flush/rinse my new MO-RA3 radiator before putting it into use? What should I use to clean it? Thanks.


My MO-RA3s were pretty clean when I got them. I did run Mayhem's Blitz Part 2 followed by hot, distilled water through them, but nothing showed up in the filter I use in my flushing setup, which gets the job done pretty easily. I say that because unlike my Hardware Labs SR2s, flushing them manually can be a bear because of how the tubes snake back and forth through the MO-RA3s. 

One piece of advice: if you do flush your rads, after you're done doing so, get yourself some ph test strips and check for a neutral ph (~7.0). That'll help prevent problems down the road.

Anyway, let Jacob chime in as well just in case he has any additional advice. 

My flushing setup follows:


----------



## DooRules

From what I have found it seems that the Heatkiller IV that fits TR4 mobo will also fit the new TRX40 series. Can someone confirm that?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> Complete rear panel screws have low strength. I damaged the cap of the hexagon screw.
> The complete Allen key has clearances in the screw. Therefore, there is a risk of damage to the faces of the screw. And so it happened.


I have no idea what product you are talking about. But it seems that this is not a general question, but an individual problem, so I would like to encourage you to send a mail to [email protected] , then I will be able to help you individually.




ALSTER868 said:


> Hey Jacob,
> 
> Do I need to flush/rinse my new MO-RA3 radiator before putting it into use? What should I use to clean it? Thanks.


Generally, the MO-RA is extremely clean, as there are no internal soldering spots. But it's always possible that some dirt could find its way in there. So we generally recommend to flush it out with hot water once. We don't think that any kind of cleaning agent is necessary.




DooRules said:


> From what I have found it seems that the Heatkiller IV that fits TR4 mobo will also fit the new TRX40 series. Can someone confirm that?


That is correct. Socket sTRX4 is physically identical to TR4, so our exiting TR4 blocks are absolutely compatible with the new socket.


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Generally, the MO-RA is extremely clean, as there are no internal soldering spots. But it's always possible that some dirt could find its way in there. So we generally recommend to flush it out with hot water once. We don't think that any kind of cleaning agent is necessary.


Still rockin a Mo-Ra 3 420 Pro since 2012 !
Best radiator IMHO.

Btw Jakob i have a discoloration(not inside) on my HK 4 Basic w. Copperplate at bottom ,build in since 3 weeks . could higher humidity be the bad guy in my flat which caused this?

Cheers 

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----------



## chas1723

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Still rockin a Mo-Ra 3 420 Pro since 2012 !
> Best radiator IMHO.
> 
> Btw Jakob i have a discoloration(not inside) on my HK 4 Basic w. Copperplate at bottom ,build in since 3 weeks . could higher humidity be the bad guy in my flat which caused this?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


What fans are you running on your MORA?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Silent Ex

Any chance of a Evga 2080ti FTW3 gpu block from HeatKiller being released? @Watercool-Jakob


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

chas1723 said:


> What fans are you running on your MORA?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


In 2-3 days i'll use 4x NF-A20 Noctua NF-A20 PWM chromax.Black.swap, Leiser Premium-Lüfter, 4-Pin (200x30mm, Schwarz) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZH5S199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oJx5DbHRM9ZJR

Currently and used years before Silverstone SST-AP181 v2.0 with a 3 way speed switch .And i'm fine with them since years .

SilverStone SST-AP181 - Air Penetrator 180 mm Hochleistungs-Gehäuselüfter mit einzigartiger Luftstrom-Kanalisierung, schwarz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003S96Y7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fOx5DbQFS4DAR

I hope the NF-A20 does a good job too since Noctua has a good Reputation with their fans. I prefered bequiet fans the Last 1.5 yrs for the case .And since Noctua is from the same Country as me ... why not try them.
Will report asap as i installed and tested them.

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----------



## ugotd8

Just got a HK IV Pro for TR4 and can't use it. This is a sealed hardware package. What's up with QC at Watercool?


----------



## Bart

Full HeatKiller treatment on my new workstation build. HeatKiller GPU blocks / back plates, TR40 Pro CPU block, and 150ml reservoir with D5 pump mount. All in black.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> Still rockin a Mo-Ra 3 420 Pro since 2012 !
> Best radiator IMHO.
> 
> Btw Jakob i have a discoloration(not inside) on my HK 4 Basic w. Copperplate at bottom ,build in since 3 weeks . could higher humidity be the bad guy in my flat which caused this?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


Well, bare copper is very easy to tarnish. If you touch it with bare hands, the fat that sticks to your fingertips can already corrode the copper. You can usually simly polish it with a mild metal polish to remove the tarnish. 

Sidenote: the tarnish does not affect cooling performance at all. It's just an optical issue.




Silent Ex said:


> Any chance of a Evga 2080ti FTW3 gpu block from HeatKiller being released? @*Watercool-Jakob*


We currently do not plan to support that card.




ugotd8 said:


> Just got a HK IV Pro for TR4 and can't use it. This is a sealed hardware package. What's up with QC at Watercool?


 That sucks, man! Can you please send me your shipping address and phone number via mail to [email protected] or via DM here in the forum? Then you'll get the missing post asap.
/Edit: Nevermind, just saw your mail from last night. Replacement bolt is on the way!


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Well, bare copper is very easy to tarnish. If you touch it with bare hands, the fat that sticks to your fingertips can already corrode the copper. You can usually simly polish it with a mild metal polish to remove the tarnish.
> 
> Sidenote: the tarnish does not affect cooling performance at all. It's just an optical issue.
> 
> 
> 
> We currently do not plan to support that card.
> 
> 
> 
> That sucks, man! Can you please send me your shipping address and phone number via mail to [email protected] or via DM here in the forum? Then you'll get the missing post asap.
> /Edit: Nevermind, just saw your mail from last night. Replacement bolt is on the way!


Thank you for the explanation, yeah fatfingers shouldn't touch watercooling Equipment .


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----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

chas1723 said:


> What fans are you running on your MORA?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Got the NF-A20 today !! Packaging is impressive!










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----------



## ugotd8

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That sucks, man! Can you please send me your shipping address and phone number via mail to [email protected] or via DM here in the forum? Then you'll get the missing post asap.
> /Edit: Nevermind, just saw your mail from last night. Replacement bolt is on the way!


Thank you!


----------



## ThrashZone

ugotd8 said:


> Just got a HK IV Pro for TR4 and can't use it. This is a sealed hardware package. What's up with QC at Watercool?


Hi,
That looks like the Intel 2066/ 2011-v3 bolts


----------



## ugotd8

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That looks like the Intel 2066/ 2011-v3 bolts


Yes, might be the same. They also look exactly like the ones in the installation pdf for the TR4.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> That looks like the Intel 2066/ 2011-v3 bolts


They do look similar, but are, in fact, different in Threads and measurements. You will not be able to install a Threadripper with the 2066 bolts and vice versa.


----------



## keeph8n

@Watercool-Jakob per usual loving all the products. Finally have some of the GPU Universal blocks on the way to do some ambient testing on my collection. 

Supposedly getting sent an Optimus block for TR4, because they want to see it compete with the best. Will have to see how it stacks up against my Heatkiller block on the 3970X, chip is quite rowdy on ambient and the Heatkiller does a fantastic job keeping it cool. 


Keep up all the hard work you guys and can't wait to see more innovative stuff from ya'll.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> They do look similar, but are, in fact, different in Threads and measurements. You will not be able to install a Threadripper with the 2066 bolts and vice versa.


HI,
Love your water blocks 
Hate your mounting hardware 

Odd to have awkward bolts instead of studs and nuts
Stud system helps a lot to keep water block centered while adding the springs and nuts way less awkward and less likely to cross thread mother board socket threads too.


----------



## Aenra

ThrashZone said:


> Odd to have awkward bolts


He may not be able to tell you the former, so allow me to 

If by the above you're commenting on the different threads -pitch / length-, the inevitable incompatibility and the reasoning behind it, well.. profit.
I don't mean this the bad way (though yes, sure it can be exploited), not necessarily; they're a smaller company targetting a niche audience that let us be honest, has zero reason to exist today. Because barring irrational projects (overkill cooling for no reason, or RGB cascade effects), one no longer needs, needs mind you, custom W/Cing at all. They gotta make a profit somehow, keep it all afloat. Despite all that. This includes mounting-related paraphernalia, which i am sure they need order from third parties; it too has a cost that needs to be factored in.

The second reason, and this Jakob might be able to shed some light to, can be purely mechanical. Great sizes (TR-like) require different pressure, different material tolerances; or lacking those, i assume they _do_ reuse _some_ things, a differing thread pitch or overall length. The higher the torque..
Given their record thus far -it being exceptional products-, i wouldn't worry so much about why they're doing this.

Could be either, or a combination of the two, just.. since i had to post the former, might as well post both, keep it fair ^^


----------



## TheArkratos

TR4 coolers mount directly to the socket bracket. Cooler manufacturers have zero choice in what thread they use.

2066 existed before TR4 so there is no way they would have known what threading they would want to use if they were to match TR4.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's my understanding.


----------



## chas1723

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> In 2-3 days i'll use 4x NF-A20 Noctua NF-A20 PWM chromax.Black.swap, Leiser Premium-Lüfter, 4-Pin (200x30mm, Schwarz) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZH5S199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oJx5DbHRM9ZJR
> 
> Currently and used years before Silverstone SST-AP181 v2.0 with a 3 way speed switch .And i'm fine with them since years .
> 
> SilverStone SST-AP181 - Air Penetrator 180 mm Hochleistungs-Gehäuselüfter mit einzigartiger Luftstrom-Kanalisierung, schwarz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003S96Y7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fOx5DbQFS4DAR
> 
> I hope the NF-A20 does a good job too since Noctua has a good Reputation with their fans. I prefered bequiet fans the Last 1.5 yrs for the case .And since Noctua is from the same Country as me ... why not try them.
> Will report asap as i installed and tested them.
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


I currently have 4 noiseblocker eloop 140mm pwm. I am trying to decide if adding 5 more of them (9 total) or 4 of the Noctua 200mm fans would be better. The noctua would be cheaper but I bet 9 140s would cool better and could still go down to 300rpm for quite running. Those noctua you got look nice. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

chas1723 said:


> I currently have 4 noiseblocker eloop 140mm pwm. I am trying to decide if adding 5 more of them (9 total) or 4 of the Noctua 200mm fans would be better. The noctua would be cheaper but I bet 9 140s would cool better and could still go down to 300rpm for quite running. Those noctua you got look nice.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


and i was thinking noctua is expensive...noisblocker is expensive too...!
Yeah their nice and quiet!

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> Love your water blocks
> Hate your mounting hardware
> 
> Odd to have awkward bolts instead of studs and nuts
> Stud system helps a lot to keep water block centered while adding the springs and nuts way less awkward and less likely to cross thread mother board socket threads too.


Thanks for the feedback! We received a lot of praise for the new mounting solution, as it simplified the mechanism. You only need to screw one piece in, instead of having several threads on each of the four positions. This reduces the chance of fauilure by customer, and helps guarantee optimal mounting pressure over thousands of different users.


But I do understand and appreciate your critique about the mouning posts helping aligning the block. That is a good pont, and we will see if we can find a clever solution for both possible issues. 




Aenra said:


> He may not be able to tell you the former, so allow me to
> 
> If by the above you're commenting on the different threads -pitch / length-, the inevitable incompatibility and the reasoning behind it, well.. profit.
> I don't mean this the bad way (though yes, sure it can be exploited), not necessarily; they're a smaller company targetting a niche audience that let us be honest, has zero reason to exist today. Because barring irrational projects (overkill cooling for no reason, or RGB cascade effects), one no longer needs, needs mind you, custom W/Cing at all. They gotta make a profit somehow, keep it all afloat. Despite all that. This includes mounting-related paraphernalia, which i am sure they need order from third parties; it too has a cost that needs to be factored in.
> 
> The second reason, and this Jakob might be able to shed some light to, can be purely mechanical. Great sizes (TR-like) require different pressure, different material tolerances; or lacking those, i assume they _do_ reuse _some_ things, a differing thread pitch or overall length. The higher the torque..
> Given their record thus far -it being exceptional products-, i wouldn't worry so much about why they're doing this.
> 
> Could be either, or a combination of the two, just.. since i had to post the former, might as well post both, keep it fair ^^





TheArkratos said:


> TR4 coolers mount directly to the socket bracket. Cooler manufacturers have zero choice in what thread they use.
> 
> 2066 existed before TR4 so there is no way they would have known what threading they would want to use if they were to match TR4.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's my understanding.



Nope, Aenra, both your points are totally irrelevant to this problem: both TR4 and 2066 screw directly into the given mounting positions and holes defined by AMD and intel, respectively. We have exactly zero choice about the threading. The height of the posts is also defined by the chip manufacturers, as they define the optimal mounting pressure for their respective CPUs, and these vary wildly. And as the last problem in all of this, AMD uses metric system for their internal constructioon, so both mounting positions, threading, etc is all in metric - where intel uses imperial measurements for everything. This OBVIOUSLY makes every solution for one manufacturer incompatible with the other...



We would LOVE to have one universal mounting system for all sockets that we can just mass produce indefinitely, instead of having to switch tooling, machine configurations, etc. Would make production plann9ng way easier and efficient. And believe me, the margin that we make on the CPU block mounting hardware is so small. If our company would depend on exploiting this tiny item, we would have made many mistakes in the more important and profitable product categories


----------



## DaLiu

Optimus v2 vs Heatkiller
Performance Pcs did a performance comparison between the blocks stated in the title.






the result is shown at 10:00 mark

I hope the results are not true and if they are, waiting a proper response from Heatkiller, I expect them to be number 1 as always


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the feedback! We received a lot of praise for the new mounting solution, as it simplified the mechanism. You only need to screw one piece in, instead of having several threads on each of the four positions. This reduces the chance of fauilure by customer, and helps guarantee optimal mounting pressure over thousands of different users.
> 
> 
> But I do understand and appreciate your critique about the mouning posts helping aligning the block. That is a good pont, and we will see if we can find a clever solution for both possible issues.


Hi,
The only thing that might help on the bolt mounts is making the threaded end a little longer so we might be able to start the thread in the socket mount easier without dealing with spring pressure too 
As it is now on 2066 and 2011-v3 (yes I have both with heatkiller iv pro on them) the spring stops it from easily getting started 
I have to fight the springs to get down far enough to start the thread.

The mounting holes on the socket go all the way through the mother boards it just has a black sealant sheet one can poke a hole through no problem for a little longer thread on the bolts.

As it is now I use the ek evo mounting studs/ nut system I just have to play with the pressure a little since the height is different than heatkillers.

I noticed 1151 socket mount has studs and nuts system :/


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nope, Aenra, both your points are totally irrelevant to this problem


I think you missed the point, but am thankful for the explanation nonetheless


----------



## TheArkratos

DaLiu said:


> I hope the results are not true and if they are, waiting a proper response from Heatkiller, I expect them to be number 1 as always


I'm hoping for a Ryzen 3000 optimized block, with RGB. Something with a similar design language to their TR4 block would make me super happy. My heatkiller TR4 block is still my favorite CPU waterblock I've ever owned. I've owned swiftech, multiple different EK, bitspower... Heatkiller makes amazing quality, just time to update the mainstream CPU block design language and jetplate/fin area or something.


----------



## chas1723

Wuest3nFuchs said:


> and i was thinking noctua is expensive...noisblocker is expensive too...!
> Yeah their nice and quiet!
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


Yeah the ones I would get are about $26 per and I need 5. Only need 4 of the noctua at $30 per. 



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## KedarWolf

Had a slight issue installing the 1151 posts for my HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) - BLACK COPPER on my new motherboard. One of the posts had a burred bottom on the threaded part and it wouldn't screw all the way tight. It actually was loose and turned in the motherboard hole even though it was screwed as far as I could screw it. I couldn't find my emery board to file it down, so I just added an extra washer I had from another waterblock I'm not going to use, then it screwed tight.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

DaLiu said:


> I hope the results are not true and if they are, waiting a proper response from Heatkiller, I expect them to be number 1 as always


I can't make any comment about those results... As you can see in the video, it is a rather quick and dirty test, only one run with each block, it doesn't take mounting variations in consideration, etc. It's a rough estimation, and as such, we obviously respect it! We will have a sample in our own laboratory soon and will analyze it. 




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> The only thing that might help on the bolt mounts is making the threaded end a little longer so we might be able to start the thread in the socket mount easier without dealing with spring pressure too
> As it is now on 2066 and 2011-v3 (yes I have both with heatkiller iv pro on them) the spring stops it from easily getting started
> I have to fight the springs to get down far enough to start the thread.
> 
> The mounting holes on the socket go all the way through the mother boards it just has a black sealant sheet one can poke a hole through no problem for a little longer thread on the bolts.
> 
> As it is now I use the ek evo mounting studs/ nut system I just have to play with the pressure a little since the height is different than heatkillers.
> 
> I noticed 1151 socket mount has studs and nuts system :/


Thankis for thze feedback, we'll take this in consideration!




TheArkratos said:


> I'm hoping for a Ryzen 3000 optimized block, with RGB. Something with a similar design language to their TR4 block would make me super happy. My heatkiller TR4 block is still my favorite CPU waterblock I've ever owned. I've owned swiftech, multiple different EK, bitspower... Heatkiller makes amazing quality, just time to update the mainstream CPU block design language and jetplate/fin area or something.



The Heatkiller IV CPU block is almost 5 years old. We are aware of how aesthetics developed, the need for RGB integration, and performance improvements on the market. We are still happy with this rather old product, but will of course react to the developments that are available nowadays. It's nice to see how other companies have adapted a lot of our design features: metal-to-metal screw connections, cast acrylic, integrated jet plate, chemical nickel plating, are all features that our block carries for 5 years now. So the next CPU block from WATERCOOL will include all the above features, and more improvements. Keep your eyes peeled is all I can say


----------



## keeph8n

My body and wallets are ready Jakob


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I can't make any comment about those results... As you can see in the video, it is a rather quick and dirty test, only one run with each block, it doesn't take mounting variations in consideration, etc. It's a rough estimation, and as such, we obviously respect it! We will have a sample in our own laboratory soon and will analyze it.
> 
> 
> 
> Thankis for thze feedback, we'll take this in consideration!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Heatkiller IV CPU block is almost 5 years old. We are aware of how aesthetics developed, the need for RGB integration, and performance improvements on the market. We are still happy with this rather old product, but will of course react to the developments that are available nowadays. It's nice to see how other companies have adapted a lot of our design features: metal-to-metal screw connections, cast acrylic, integrated jet plate, chemical nickel plating, are all features that our block carries for 5 years now. So the next CPU block from WATERCOOL will include all the above features, and more improvements. Keep your eyes peeled is all I can say


Sounds like there's something in development! 

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## newls1

TheArkratos said:


> I'm hoping for a Ryzen 3000 optimized block, with RGB. Something with a similar design language to their TR4 block would make me super happy. My heatkiller TR4 block is still my favorite CPU waterblock I've ever owned. I've owned swiftech, multiple different EK, bitspower... Heatkiller makes amazing quality, just time to update the mainstream CPU block design language and jetplate/fin area or something.


is this why im not happy with the performance of cooling using the all copper Pro IV waterblock on my 3950x?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep amd has a complex chip now days 
You can either have a flow that goes top to bottom or side to side but in seems hitting the middle and going both direction is not very joyful temp wise.
Seems the first would be preferred and just adjust for which chips get hit first :/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SGDB6...76d72b9258e71efc05d5927c2&language=en_US&th=1


----------



## newls1

waiting to see what the AMD Optimus block performance like. in the last 3 weeks ive bought the EK Velocity, and the heatkiller blocks, and EK performs slightly better. Before I drop another 100$+ im going to do my homework first and wait and see how the optimus goes


----------



## Vlada011

Heatkiller IV CPU block is still very effective.
Some companies launch new products before testing and later customers need to deal with corrosion and bad nickel plating, poor build quality, etc.

If someone search for watercooling parts only to visual satisfied people arround self and on net then could buy blocks even over Aliexpress.
Who want quality on first place will buy Heatkiller IV even if market have newer blocks.

It's important to customers still use Heatkiller IV launched before Skylake-X and with different model and size of processors.
Heatkiller V will probably to work even better. 
I can't wait day to proudly replace EK RGB Monoblock with Heatkiller IV CPU block and EK XRES D5 Revo with Heatkiller D5 100.
I will be perfectly satisfied without RGB and my computer will get new form.

I special like how Heatkiller Threadripper look in cases with some high end motherboards from ASUS and GIGABYTE.


Optimus look OK, it's never but Heatkiller IV PRO Pure Copper is excellent.
On Optimus site you will see explanation how watercooling industry caused problems to customers, selling them expensive parts and forcing them to use different inhibitors to protect waterblocks from corrossion if people use water... Experts immediately knew that's something is wrong and how much suffering customers survived trying desperately to prevent corrosion while companies blamed coolant, cleaning process, combination of parts from different brands, etc... At least Watercool never had problems with corrossion but some companies had several affairs and that's only result of saving cost in production.
If they done job properly then charge insane price advertising as special high quality for just normal products.

Personally I don't believe in 5C temperature difference between watercblocks, except good blocks and craps worth 20$.
Maybe 3C, but 5C not. Optimus is more style for guys who likes EK blocks to buy Optimus as better quality, more precise and newer.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Only difference for us in the U.S. is no outrageous shipping rates 
But it's never stopped performance pc to over charge on shipping so who knows 

I did like the looks of the copper plexi but is it better than heatkiller 4 pro 
I could care a less about rgb.

Bad thing about fine cooling fins they seem to pickup every little particle in the fluid thus clogging the block in short time.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Section31 said:


> I have an heatkiller tube 150 with d5 next installed. Has anyone had issues with the flow meter reading 0l/h (its obviously not).


Quick question. When connecting the D5 Next to a Heatkiller Tube 150 do you need to modify anything or does it just install as easy as any other pump?


----------



## Section31

Vlada011 said:


> Heatkiller IV CPU block is still very effective.
> Some companies launch new products before testing and later customers need to deal with corrosion and bad nickel plating, poor build quality, etc.
> 
> If someone search for watercooling parts only to visual satisfied people arround self and on net then could buy blocks even over Aliexpress.
> Who want quality on first place will buy Heatkiller IV even if market have newer blocks.
> 
> It's important to customers still use Heatkiller IV launched before Skylake-X and with different model and size of processors.
> Heatkiller V will probably to work even better.
> I can't wait day to proudly replace EK RGB Monoblock with Heatkiller IV CPU block and EK XRES D5 Revo with Heatkiller D5 100.
> I will be perfectly satisfied without RGB and my computer will get new form.
> 
> I special like how Heatkiller Threadripper look in cases with some high end motherboards from ASUS and GIGABYTE.
> 
> 
> Optimus look OK, it's never but Heatkiller IV PRO Pure Copper is excellent.
> On Optimus site you will see explanation how watercooling industry caused problems to customers, selling them expensive parts and forcing them to use different inhibitors to protect waterblocks from corrossion if people use water... Experts immediately knew that's something is wrong and how much suffering customers survived trying desperately to prevent corrosion while companies blamed coolant, cleaning process, combination of parts from different brands, etc... At least Watercool never had problems with corrossion but some companies had several affairs and that's only result of saving cost in production.
> If they done job properly then charge insane price advertising as special high quality for just normal products.
> 
> Personally I don't believe in 5C temperature difference between watercblocks, except good blocks and craps worth 20$.
> Maybe 3C, but 5C not. Optimus is more style for guys who likes EK blocks to buy Optimus as better quality, more precise and newer.


Daz has an point. I own the optimus and am using it. The difference is really 3degrees max. However, I am still going to keep the Heatkiller CPU IV Black Nickel i own. I will probably go back to heatkiller V for Intel 7nm/AMD 5nm in couple years. Heatkiller next CPU block redesign is probably going to be game changing. I was originally thinking of using optimus for 3080TI block but after that episode, I am sticking to heatkiller for it.


----------



## Section31

ChiTownButcher said:


> Quick question. When connecting the D5 Next to a Heatkiller Tube 150 do you need to modify anything or does it just install as easy as any other pump?


No modification needed. Just remember to pull off the OLED Controller before you insert into the Tube 150 D5 mount. The flow meter thing I gave up on, I just bought an barrowsch OLED flow meter to do its job instead


----------



## MoDeNa

I had one Optimus for AM4 and Ryzen 3000 here for testing purposes but finally I decline to install it because of its mounting accesories. 

They don't use backplate to spread tension, no springs, no washers... You need to use your common sense and intuition to finally install the block. I am sorry but for the price they ask for this block these things should be addressed.

I keep waiting for Watercool new waterblocks to upgrade the Heatkiller IV Pro.


----------



## Section31

Just some advice, i dont recommend screwing the heatkiller block tight either. You will pull out the cpu too whenever you pull out the block. Little bit is all you need


----------



## ugotd8

Heatkiller IV Pro doing it's job on the new Threadripper 3960X. Ambient temp around 23.5C. D5 pump set to ~45% power and all noctua rad fans set to quiet.


----------



## Hequaqua

Hi, joining the club.

I'm using the Watercool HEATKILLER® IV PRO (AMD, AM4 ready) ACRYL (18014) with a Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS radiator. This is my first loop. ATM it's soft tubing, but I'm going to swap it over to 16mm OD hard tubing as soon as all the parts get here. I hope I'm ready to start trying to bend some PETG....we'll see.

:thumb:


----------



## shiokarai

Heatkiller IV Pro cooling nicely 9900ks delidded & direct die with RockIt Cool Direct Die Frame - no modifications needed to the mounting whatsoever, working like a charm 

5.3 Ghz


----------



## ProRules

*prorules*



MoDeNa said:


> I had one Optimus for AM4 and Ryzen 3000 here for testing purposes but finally I decline to install it because of its mounting accesories.
> 
> They don't use backplate to spread tension, no springs, no washers... You need to use your common sense and intuition to finally install the block. I am sorry but for the price they ask for this block these things should be addressed.
> 
> I keep waiting for Watercool new waterblocks to upgrade the Heatkiller IV Pro.


Well, TBH there are no reviews yet on the Optimus blocks.
On the other hand you have Heatkiller that are proven to be superb at both build quality and performance.
I really doubt that there's a 4-6C difference and like you said it has no backplate support.
They do look promising, but the asking price is too high for my liking at this stage of development.

I do like one thing from them and it's the fact that they are using an O ring on the GPU block to separate the jet and central area so fluid doesn't get there. I once had a HK GPU block that had fluid get stuck in between the plexi and the central piece.
Sure, I am a bit bias in favor of HK with good reasons, but i must be unbias and say that i do too believe that all should have an O ring like optimus have on their GPU blocks.


----------



## Vlada011

Nice, Caseking have Watercool.de 360mm fan grills. 
Great options for people who don't want accidentaly to touch fans or want to cover them.
Maybe some people don't like color of Noctua but use fan because it's best and this could help a lot.

Nicest fan grill on market.
I would like to Watercool build new one batch from aluminum when they sold these one, but never mind.
Brushed and black aluminum would be extremely cool for us, owners of Lian Li and aluminum fans.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Only difference for us in the U.S. is no outrageous shipping rates


Well, shipping from Germany to America IS expensive. We have pretty good discount rates with FedEx, which is why we can even offer a rate at 29,95€ for US. I wouldn't call this outrageous - if you take into consideration that you will have your product in ~4-6 days over a distance of ~eightthousand kilometers, this sounds reasonable to me. Of course it's still not cheap at all - but I think that the offered service is worth the price.




Section31 said:


> Just some advice, i dont recommend screwing the heatkiller block tight either. You will pull out the cpu too whenever you pull out the block. Little bit is all you need


Our mounting system is designed to deliver precisely the correct mounting pressure as specified by Intel's and AMD's design guidelines. We definitely recommend screwing the nuts all the way down till they hit the stop! When your thermal paste is that adhesive, you should consider using a higher quality thermal paste instead to avoid this problem.




shiokarai said:


> Heatkiller IV Pro cooling nicely 9900ks delidded & direct die with RockIt Cool Direct Die Frame - no modifications needed to the mounting whatsoever, working like a charm
> 
> 5.3 Ghz


Thanks for the feedback


----------



## MoDeNa

Watercool-Jakob said:


> ....
> 
> Our mounting system is designed to deliver precisely the correct mounting pressure as specified by Intel's and AMD's design guidelines. We definitely recommend screwing the nuts all the way down till they hit the stop! When your thermal paste is that adhesive, you should consider using a higher quality thermal paste instead to avoid this problem.
> ...


I confirm this 100%. I changed my Heatkiller IV for AM4 at least three times and I did not have any kind of issues unmounting the waterblock. In fact I realized that it was very smooth.


----------



## InfoSeeker

A holiday special for all water-cooling enthusiasts who do NOT have a local vendor available to them.

MODDIY.com Christmas Sale is now LIVE!
FREE Shipping Worldwide ALL Products for all orders $50+!

Plus when I logged on today I got a message "Get 10% off all products today with coupon code LA10, enjoy!"


----------



## Section31

MoDeNa said:


> I confirm this 100%. I changed my Heatkiller IV for AM4 at least three times and I did not have any kind of issues unmounting the waterblock. In fact I realized that it was very smooth.


Good to know. I use Noctua NH-1 Thermal Paste (used to use EKWB included gelid one but mine dried up since I haven't bought there stuff for years). Its probably I put too much force into taking out the block. Call it used to Intel LGA1151/2066 mechanism and just pulling it out with force is enough.


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> Good to know. I use Noctua NH-1 Thermal Paste (used to use EKWB included gelid one but mine dried up since I haven't bought there stuff for years). Its probably I put too much force into taking out the block. Call it used to Intel LGA1151/2066 mechanism and just pulling it out with force is enough.



Twist the block first to break and loosen the TIM before pulling. This helps a lot so you don't pull the CPU out of the socket.


----------



## ProRules

*prorules*



Section31 said:


> Good to know. I use Noctua NH-1 Thermal Paste (used to use EKWB included gelid one but mine dried up since I haven't bought there stuff for years). Its probably I put too much force into taking out the block. Call it used to Intel LGA1151/2066 mechanism and just pulling it out with force is enough.


Maybe it's the fault of your motherboard?
Could be a weak retention mechanism.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

chibi said:


> Twist the block first to break and loosen the TIM before pulling. This helps a lot so you don't pull the CPU out of the socket.





ProRules said:


> Maybe it's the fault of your motherboard?
> Could be a weak retention mechanism.



To be fair, I had this happen to me with my first AM3 system back in the day, as well: CPU stuck to the (stock ) cooler. I can't go into details, as you would lose every bit of respect that you might ever have had for me, but: I finally bent all the pins back, and the CPU worked another couple of years 


So: yes, wiggle and twist before pulling up. And even if the CPU sticks to your block: you can usually get if off with slight force anyway. But my best tip: Definitely invest the +6 bucks into better thermal paste


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
NT-H1 & H2 are good paste matter of fact only 1 maybe 2c off top rated pastes which is thermal grizzly kronaut usually overpriced.
NT-H1 has never dried out on me H2 acts differently though and does and is why I stick "no pun intended"  with NT-H1


----------



## DaLiu

Another test from https://twitter.com/Optimus_WC


----------



## Idea

I just purchased the Nickel/Acrylic 2080ti block and I had a question about the LED's. I saw a post in this thread earlier mentioning where the LED strip is on a Titan XP block, is it in the same location in the 2080ti block? Also, does anyone know the length of the LED? Reason I ask is because I'm wanting to change out the RGB strip to an aRGB strip. I think I saw somewhere that Watercool actually sells aRGB strips for this block, but apparently you can only get it as an upgrade option when buying the block from their website? Doesn't seem like it would be too hard to put in your own aRGB LED's though. 

Also, anyone know where you can get a nickel backplate for these waterblocks in the US? Seems like all the NA online retailers only have the black one.


----------



## Barefooter

Idea said:


> I just purchased the Nickel/Acrylic 2080ti block and I had a question about the LED's. I saw a post in this thread earlier mentioning where the LED strip is on a Titan XP block, is it in the same location in the 2080ti block? Also, does anyone know the length of the LED? Reason I ask is because I'm wanting to change out the RGB strip to an aRGB strip. I think I saw somewhere that Watercool actually sells aRGB strips for this block, but apparently you can only get it as an upgrade option when buying the block from their website? Doesn't seem like it would be too hard to put in your own aRGB LED's though.
> 
> Also, anyone know where you can get a nickel backplate for these waterblocks in the US? Seems like all the NA online retailers only have the black one.


I shortened and sleeved the cables on the RGB strips that came with my blocks. Here's a few pics so you can see what it looks like.


----------



## Idea

Barefooter said:


> I shortened and sleeved the cables on the RGB strips that came with my blocks. Here's a few pics so you can see what it looks like.


OMG you're a saint. This is exactly what I needed!! Thank you! The only tricky part I see is at the end of the LED strip, the cable is bent back 180 degrees, and comes out the side of the block. I assume they just bent that cable and then just wrapped the end to tidy it up? I think I might grab the EKWB Digital RGB strip and then cut it to length. Unless anyone else here has suggestions for ARGB strips that are good quality LED's? idk if that even matters or if they're all about the same. Technically I could cut one of my Corsair strips down, and then plug that in with the rest of my Corsair stuff so it's all linked together.


----------



## J7SC

It's been a year now since I got my Heatkiller IV Pro 'Nickel' for my 2950X build... So I figured after a year, it was time to change some fluids (CPU loop is separate from GPU loop, CPU loop has dual XSPC RX360 V3s and dual D5-type pumps)...but absolutely no discoloration, no mini-particles floating about, no loss of fluids or performance in tests with the same external parameters, such as ambient temp. Daily use setting is all-c 4.275 GHz @ 1.3375v, benchmark setting is all-c 4.3 GHz @ 1.384v...RAM is either 32 GB or 64GB @ tight 3466. Highest (summer) load temp ever per HWInfo64 was 73c, average load temp is 68c.

While I am always on the lookout for new stuff, the proof is in the pudding so to speak and two upcoming TRX40 builds (work, play) in the new year will also get Heatkiller IV Pro Nickel blocks...what's good for the (12nm) goose is good for the (7nm) gander 



Spoiler


----------



## Barefooter

Idea said:


> OMG you're a saint. This is exactly what I needed!! Thank you! The only tricky part I see is at the end of the LED strip, *the cable is bent back 180 degrees*, and comes out the side of the block. I assume they just bent that cable and then just wrapped the end to tidy it up? I think I might grab the EKWB Digital RGB strip and then cut it to length. Unless anyone else here has suggestions for ARGB strips that are good quality LED's? idk if that even matters or if they're all about the same. Technically I could cut one of my Corsair strips down, and then plug that in with the rest of my Corsair stuff so it's all linked together.



The top picture is how it came stock. I tried to copy that and bend the heat shrink back like the factory one, but it was just too big around to fit in the slot.

If you look at the bottom picture the way I did it you can see a little bit of heat shrink coming out of the waterblock, but I found this worked best :thumb:


----------



## Madmaxneo

I have a heatkiller IV pro clear acrylic on my CPU and nickel plated one on my GPU. Specs should be below in the sig.
Over the last few months I noticed a slow creep up in temps on my CPU. On a minimal load my CPU was running about 42 c whereas my GPU seemed fine as it has run between 35 c to 50 c from idle to full load. My CPU is OC'd to 4.2ghz but my GPU is not OC'd at all. 
When taking out my Swiftech H240 to drain and refill I decided to reapply the kyronaut. I found the thermal paste had mostly deteriorated into nothing. I also discovered the fluid in my H140 (or is it a 120?...lol) for the GPU had evaporated some. I added some fluid to the GPU swiftech unit and refilled and reinstalled the CPU swiftech unit with new Phanteks PH-F140MP fans. 
After a few days it seems my idle temp for my CPU is about 33 c on average and my GPU idle temp has also dropped to about the mid 20's. So all seems good. It had been a little over a year since I had refilled the H240 for the CPU but the fluid and the block were still clean as a whistle.

So all in all it was a good idea to clean and refill.

Is it normal for the Kryonaut paste to deteriorate like that?


----------



## J7SC

Madmaxneo said:


> I have a heatkiller IV pro clear acrylic on my CPU and nickel plated one on my GPU (...) but the fluid and the block were still clean as a whistle.
> 
> So all in all it was a good idea to clean and refill.
> 
> Is it normal for the Kryonaut paste to deteriorate like that?


 
...I am certainly NOT a Thermal Interface Material expert to the last degree, but back in my days of sub-zero and HWBot, I used all kinds of concoctions good for up to -180c. Then there were the liquid metals for CPU and GPU for barely positive temps on chillers.

But for 'daily' builds that have lasted seven years plus without disassembly or temp deterioration, it is either Arctic MX4 or Gelid (TC-GC-03-A). I just wish I could still get those 20mg Arctic MX4 tubes instead of those mini 4mg ones now


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Idea said:


> I just purchased the Nickel/Acrylic 2080ti block and I had a question about the LED's. I saw a post in this thread earlier mentioning where the LED strip is on a Titan XP block, is it in the same location in the 2080ti block? Also, does anyone know the length of the LED? Reason I ask is because I'm wanting to change out the RGB strip to an aRGB strip. I think I saw somewhere that Watercool actually sells aRGB strips for this block, but apparently you can only get it as an upgrade option when buying the block from their website? Doesn't seem like it would be too hard to put in your own aRGB LED's though.
> 
> Also, anyone know where you can get a nickel backplate for these waterblocks in the US? Seems like all the NA online retailers only have the black one.


We do offer aRGB strips separately as well as an optional upgrade for blocks that come with preinstalled standard RGB.
FOr your block, you'd need the size XS - angled strip. Of course, you can use any other strip that you like instead. you'll just have to make sure that it's 8mm wide or less to fit into the groove.


When assembling the strips, we solder the cabled in a way that they already come with this angle, so they fit into our products perfectly. 




J7SC said:


> It's been a year now since I got my Heatkiller IV Pro 'Nickel' for my 2950X build... So I figured after a year, it was time to change some fluids (CPU loop is separate from GPU loop, CPU loop has dual XSPC RX360 V3s and dual D5-type pumps)...but absolutely no discoloration, no mini-particles floating about, no loss of fluids or performance in tests with the same external parameters, such as ambient temp. Daily use setting is all-c 4.275 GHz @ 1.3375v, benchmark setting is all-c 4.3 GHz @ 1.384v...RAM is either 32 GB or 64GB @ tight 3466. Highest (summer) load temp ever per HWInfo64 was 73c, average load temp is 68c.
> 
> While I am always on the lookout for new stuff, the proof is in the pudding so to speak and two upcoming TRX40 builds (work, play) in the new year will also get Heatkiller IV Pro Nickel blocks...what's good for the (12nm) goose is good for the (7nm) gander


Thanks for the positive feedback!


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

@Watercool-Jakob 

Hello,

could it be that the epdm-tube has remnants, i had this after 2-3 weeks of using it. 










after washing/cleaning tube and the wholeq Loop again it went away. 

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Good example why plexi top is awesome you could see that a mile away


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Yeah but i didnt have luck with plexi ,im more a POM/ACETAL Freak.
10yr old waterblock which i ran a amd opteron on it.
Falled from 60cm and cracked. 
Good thing i had an extra plexitop for it. 









Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## keeph8n

Seems like a loop not cleaned completely? Never had anything like that with EPDM tubing


----------



## Madmaxneo

J7SC said:


> ...I am certainly NOT a Thermal Interface Material expert to the last degree, but back in my days of sub-zero and HWBot, I used all kinds of concoctions good for up to -180c. Then there were the liquid metals for CPU and GPU for barely positive temps on chillers.
> 
> But for 'daily' builds that have lasted seven years plus without disassembly or temp deterioration, it is either Arctic MX4 or Gelid (TC-GC-03-A). I just wish I could still get those 20mg Arctic MX4 tubes instead of those mini 4mg ones now


Thanks, I will look into those.

I forgot to mention that I use the Mayhems XT-1 in my system and it has always been great at keeping anything from growing in my loops. I am almost done with the bottle of XT-1 I have and may try to go with their less toxic version of the same stuff next time.


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> I shortened and sleeved the cables on the RGB strips that came with my blocks. Here's a few pics so you can see what it looks like.


This is really interesting. How did you sleeve them? I don't know how to remove the connectors, or for that matter, where to find appropriate pins or connectors.


----------



## Hequaqua

jvillaveces said:


> This is really interesting. How did you sleeve them? I don't know how to remove the connectors, or for that matter, where to find appropriate pins or connectors.


ModMyMods sells just about everything you would need.


----------



## jvillaveces

Hequaqua said:


> ModMyMods sells just about everything you would need.


I just looked through their site and couldn't find either pins or connectors for this purpose. Can you point me to the specific items you suggest? Thanks!


----------



## Hequaqua

jvillaveces said:


> I just looked through their site and couldn't find either pins or connectors for this purpose. Can you point me to the specific items you suggest? Thanks!


Just give them a call if you don't see exactly what you're looking for...talk to Kevin or Brony....great guys, and very helpful.

I'm not sure of exactly what you are looking for. I know I got some pins and connectors a while back. If not there, maybe Performance-PC.

Here is the link to that page:

https://modmymods.com/connectors-pins.html


----------



## Barefooter

jvillaveces said:


> This is really interesting. How did you sleeve them? I don't know how to remove the connectors, or for that matter, where to find appropriate pins or connectors.


I used the LED strips and wire harness that came with the water blocks. I cut the existing heat shrink off, unsoldered the wires at the LED strip. Then shorten them, put my sleeving on, soldered the wires back onto the LED strip with the heat shrink already on top of the sleeving just pulled back, and then shrunk it down :thumb:

I showed how I did it in this *post* on my build log.


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> I used the LED strips and wire harness that came with the water blocks. I cut the existing heat shrink off, unsoldered the wires at the LED strip. Then shorten them, put my sleeving on, soldered the wires back onto the LED strip with the heat shrink already on top of the sleeving just pulled back, and then shrunk it down :thumb:
> 
> I showed how I did it in this *post* on my build log.


Thank you


----------



## jvillaveces

Hequaqua said:


> Just give them a call if you don't see exactly what you're looking for...talk to Kevin or Brony....great guys, and very helpful.
> 
> I'm not sure of exactly what you are looking for. I know I got some pins and connectors a while back. If not there, maybe Performance-PC.



There are plenty of good sources for sleeving, wire, connectors and pins all over the internet. Neither of those two sites is among with my favorites. My specific question, to which you pretended to know the answer, was about pins and connectors for RGB cables, as those are notoriously difficult to source for mere modders.


----------



## Hequaqua

jvillaveces said:


> There are plenty of good sources for sleeving, wire, connectors and pins all over the internet. Neither of those two sites is among with my favorites. My specific question, to which you pretended to know the answer, was about pins and connectors for RGB cables, as those are notoriously difficult to source for mere modders.


My bad....I didn't pretend to know the answer....I just was giving what I thought was good info, at least the best I had the time. Looking back, I see what your are saying though. I apologize. I would say though, ModMyMods might have the info or a source of where you might find specific connectors/pins. Like I said...I bought some years ago, and figured they may stock what you were after. I haven't looked into RGB pins/connectors specifically. 

On another note....I'm not sure...but maybe Ensourced. He does custom cables...not sure if he does RGB, but he may have info to a source for what you are after. I don't see any RGB listed, but again, he may be able to point you in the right direction.

https://www.ensourced.net/


----------



## Bart

I finally caved and picked up a 2080TI on sale:










And dressed him in a fine German HeatKiller tuxedo:










For temps, my mind is blown right now. So blown I almost think something must be misreading somewhere. I'm currently overclocking the boogers out of this little Zotac 2080Ti, up to +250mhz core / + 700mhz memory. It's surviving Time Spy Extreme / Fire Strike Ultra stress tests. But the mind boggling thing is this: it hasn't hit 36C yet. It tops out at 35C!! Under full overclocked load!! 2145mhz core, 8000mhz memory, 35 degrees Celsius!! I might need to Furmark this thing.


----------



## khemist

That seems very strange, almost too low even for water, i would expect it to hit nearer 50C.


----------



## Bart

khemist said:


> That seems very strange, almost too low even for water, i would expect it to hit nearer 50C.


Yes indeed, hence my question.  There's no way that should be accurate, even in a killer loop in a cold basement in Canadian winter. Makes me wonder if there's a goofy sensor on this card or something.


----------



## ThrashZone

Bart said:


> Yes indeed, hence my question.  There's no way that should be accurate, even in a killer loop in a cold basement in Canadian winter. Makes me wonder if there's a goofy sensor on this card or something.


Hi,
Run some benchmarks
Time spy/ fire strike/ even superposion and see how you line up with other 2080ti's.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/21-benchmarking-software-discussion/


----------



## Bart

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Run some benchmarks
> Time spy/ fire strike/ even superposion and see how you line up with other 2080ti's.
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/21-benchmarking-software-discussion/


I did that most of yesterday.  Apparently I'm smack in the middle, if I use OCNs 3dmark thread as a baseline. Top Time Spy score was 15,333, top Time Spy Extreme score was 7401. That's with a Ryzen 3900X. It passed Time Spy Extreme / Fire Strike Ultra stress tests multiple times in a row. I know that's not conclusive, but I've found those to be a pretty decent GPU clock stability test. But that 35C temp *has* to be wrong.


----------



## ThrashZone

Bart said:


> I did that most of yesterday.  Apparently I'm smack in the middle, if I use OCNs 3dmark thread as a baseline. Top Time Spy score was 15,333, top Time Spy Extreme score was 7401. That's with a Ryzen 3900X. It passed Time Spy Extreme / Fire Strike Ultra stress tests multiple times in a row. I know that's not conclusive, but I've found those to be a pretty decent GPU clock stability test. But that 35C temp *has* to be wrong.


Hi,
Superposion is a pure gpu test with many different resolutions to test with.
It a better gpu test but not too many people run it around here because they only allow a paid version 
Try comparing with this thread 

https://www.tenforums.com/benchmarking/74871-unigine-superposition.html#post913668


----------



## Bart

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Superposion is a pure gpu test with many different resolutions to test with.
> It a better gpu test but not too many people run it around here because they only allow a paid version
> Try comparing with this thread
> 
> https://www.tenforums.com/benchmarking/74871-unigine-superposition.html#post913668


Forgot about that benchmark, probably because as you say, no one uses it. I'll give that a whack, thanks! Seeing your name on that list with three different GPUs will give me good comparison points.


----------



## ThrashZone

Bart said:


> Forgot about that benchmark, probably because as you say, no one uses it. I'll give that a whack, thanks! Seeing your name on that list with three different GPUs will give me good comparison points.


Hi,
I don't have a rtx card but Heaven has a lot of 2080ti scores also it's also pretty close to a pure gpu benchmark but cpu oc effects it so not near as gpu as superposion is but still fun to run 
This is an easy to do benchmark forum lots of free version 
https://www.tenforums.com/benchmarking/14046-heaven-benchmark.html


----------



## J7SC

Bart said:


> Yes indeed, hence my question.  There's no way that should be accurate, even in a killer loop in a cold basement in Canadian winter. Makes me wonder if there's a goofy sensor on this card or something.


 
...I think it is entirely possible. Below is a pic with temps from 3DM PortRoyal DUAL 2080 Ti (Gigabyte Aorus xtr factory-water-blocked)...and yes, in a cooler CDN fall climate. That said, the system also has a HD cooling system just for the GPUs which consists of a total of 1080mm x 55m rads and dual D5-type pumps, along with GentleTyphoon fans. 

Typically, the delta to ambient on a water-cooled 2080 Ti should be between 15c and 20c under load, depending of course to some extent on the overall w-cooling setup. In any case, t looks like you got yourself a nice 2080 Ti with a great (and well-mounted !) water block


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

> We are very thankful to all our partners, friends, and especially customers for an extremely successful 2019! It's the third time in a row that we could celebrate "most successful year in the company's history", and we are deeply grateful for the loyalty, passion, and trust that we receive!
> 
> We have great plans for 2020: we will launch several new product categories that we have never tackled in 19 years in business, but will also release evolutionary successors to trusted and well-established products - keep your eyes peeled, 2020 will be exciting!
> 
> We will take a short break over the holidays: the whole company (offices, production, shipping) will be closed from 12/23/2019 until 1/1/2020. We will be back at 1/2/2020, answering mails and processing orders.
> 
> We wish all our partners, suppliers and customers a merry Christmas and a happy new Year 2020!


----------



## Hequaqua

Watercool-Jakob said:


>


Thanks...hope all of you have a great holiday!


----------



## J7SC

Season's Greetings to all


----------



## ugotd8

J7SC said:


> Season's Greetings to all


Thanks J7SC, you too sir.


----------



## deme

Watercool-Jakob said:


>


Merry Christmas!

(Is that a new rgb pump there?)


----------



## Section31

Hope to see new products from you soon.


----------



## ProRules

Watercool-Jakob said:


> To be fair, I had this happen to me with my first AM3 system back in the day, as well: CPU stuck to the (stock ) cooler. I can't go into details, as you would lose every bit of respect that you might ever have had for me, but: I finally bent all the pins back, and the CPU worked another couple of years
> 
> 
> So: yes, wiggle and twist before pulling up. And even if the CPU sticks to your block: you can usually get if off with slight force anyway. But my best tip: Definitely invest the +6 bucks into better thermal paste


Got the MX-4 2019 edition as the Kryonaut was out of stock on watercool.de :s
Anyways, just ordered a bunch of things. Lian Li + HK + HWlabs radiators = best combo ^^


----------



## Omar Rana

hi everyone, first of all, I finally was able to water cool my GPU after a month struggle from waiting for the products to arrive and so on.
Since this was my first gaming pc build after more than 12 years, my last graphics card was GeForce 2 MX after that i gave up pc gaming and switched to console.
Recently my friend offered me his cheap pc to buy and i gave it a shot. And guess what, the pc that was supposed to be budget pc is now turned in to completely high end with an RTX 2080 ti card( was the only reason i wanted to stay away from pc gaming, now too late.) 

Anyways i bought alphacool eiswolf for the GPU to control the temps of my graphics card, it, unfortunately, did not fit because i was such a noob that i did not notice there was a black cover on the PCB of GPU that needed to removed as well.

Then i ordered heat killer 4, i combined it with alphacool eisbaer aio for CPU.
Now i have 2x radiator 240mm, cpu+ gpu.

I am seeing 48 c under full load for my GPU without oc. If i oc it, I get 52 max.

I have not used heat killer 4 backplate, I wanted to ask is it worth ordering the black plate? will it make any difference?
Thanks, everyone.


----------



## ProRules

Omar Rana said:


> hi everyone, first of all, I finally was able to water cool my GPU after a month struggle from waiting for the products to arrive and so on.
> Since this was my first gaming pc build after more than 12 years, my last graphics card was GeForce 2 MX after that i gave up pc gaming and switched to console.
> Recently my friend offered me his cheap pc to buy and i gave it a shot. And guess what, the pc that was supposed to be budget pc is now turned in to completely high end with an RTX 2080 ti card( was the only reason i wanted to stay away from pc gaming, now too late.)
> 
> Anyways i bought alphacool eiswolf for the GPU to control the temps of my graphics card, it, unfortunately, did not fit because i was such a noob that i did not notice there was a black cover on the PCB of GPU that needed to removed as well.
> 
> Then i ordered heat killer 4, i combined it with alphacool eisbaer aio for CPU.
> Now i have 2x radiator 240mm, cpu+ gpu.
> 
> I am seeing 48 c under full load for my GPU without oc. If i oc it, I get 52 max.
> 
> I have not used heat killer 4 backplate, I wanted to ask is it worth ordering the black plate? will it make any difference?
> Thanks, everyone.


I can't say much on the backplate as i have never tested without one.
What i can say tho is that i was running a HK IV for 1080Ti with a backplate. I also had a 7700K OCed to 5.2Ghz 1.36v and the CPU was 75-80ish on full load. Besides the main 2 blocks, I also had a RAM block and all three were cooled by just Alphacool ST30 240mm and ST30 480mm.

The GPU was 38C under full load.
I bet the backplate does help, but your issue might also be the radiator placement/fans circulation of hot and cold air, and maybe the thermal paste.

My ambient temp was 24-25 ish as it was not winter.


----------



## Omar Rana

ProRules said:


> I can't say much on the backplate as i have never tested without one.
> What i can say tho is that i was running a HK IV for 1080Ti with a backplate. I also had a 7700K OCed to 5.2Ghz 1.36v and the CPU was 75-80ish on full load. Besides the main 2 blocks, I also had a RAM block and all three were cooled by just Alphacool ST30 240mm and ST30 480mm.
> 
> The GPU was 38C under full load.
> I bet the backplate does help, but your issue might also be the radiator placement/fans circulation of hot and cold air, and maybe the thermal paste.
> 
> My ambient temp was 24-25 ish as it was not winter.


my room temperature is 25c and i 2x 240mm radiator, the pump is running at 2900 rpm . I can try 360mm radiator at front but in general 48c is it too bad temperature that i should be worried?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Hey guys I am wondering if I'm missing something here with a Heat Killer IV CPU block on an LGA1151 motherboard (the Asus Maximus XI Extreme in this case). I have another block on a 2066 Asus Rampage VI Extreme and that one has been fantastic, but removing the 1151 rig's block today to swap CPUs, I found that the thermal paste had barely spread out, not even covering half of the IHS. There was plenty on there, it just hadn't spread out - indicating far too low mounting pressure.

This is where I'm confused because I followed the instructions as far as I can tell - on 1151 without a back plate, you just run 4 screws with plastic washers through the back of the board, then thread on the block standoffs from the other side until finger tight - again with another plastic washer between the standoff and PCB. The block then slides down onto the standoffs, and the thumb screws are attached with a metal washer first, then a spring, then the nut until tight.

Now, I used some pliers to hold the standoffs and cranked on the rear mounting screws to really snug the standoffs down as much as I dared, and made 200% sure that the thumb screws are mounted properly and all the way down but this 9900ks is still hitting 95 C or so (room ambient today is 19 C) in Cinebench R20, with all BIOS settings stock except Asus's MCE enabled (looks like it is doing an all-core boost of only 4.7ghz). This seems very hot for stock, and more to the point I'm still not convinced the block is making good contact with the CPU.

The bigger worry here is that I intend on running direct-die in this, and if the Heat Killer block can't even make good contact with a stock CPU, it won't even touch a naked die...

Am I missing something about installing this on 1151 sockets?


----------



## D-EJ915

Make sure something on the board is not in the way, boards like to sneak some bits that stick up inside the "keep out" zone around the socket which may be interfering.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

D-EJ915 said:


> Make sure something on the board is not in the way, boards like to sneak some bits that stick up inside the "keep out" zone around the socket which may be interfering.


Thank you! after reading that and going over a much earlier post in this thread I realized that the block was 'goofy' orientation (I installed it with the branding text horizontal thinking that was 'normal') with the text normal, the out port to the left of the inlet port.

Twisting the block around to 'normal' orientation (text is vertical, outlet port is below inlet port) I could already tell it was becoming much tighter while threading down the thumb screws, and a quick Cinebench R15 run confirmed it - max temps were 62-63 C, where they were hitting 95+ with the block rotated previously... and I didn't even clean off the thermal paste for another fresh application yet!


----------



## badkarma3059

Hi folks. Could use a little help and figured this would be the place to ask. I cannot for the life of me figure out to install the LED strip into the heatkiller IV block for my 2080ti. I didn't see anything in the block instructions or the LED packaging.

Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hi, I'm back 




Bart said:


> I finally caved and picked up a 2080TI on sale:
> 
> For temps, my mind is blown right now. So blown I almost think something must be misreading somewhere. I'm currently overclocking the boogers out of this little Zotac 2080Ti, up to +250mhz core / + 700mhz memory. It's surviving Time Spy Extreme / Fire Strike Ultra stress tests. But the mind boggling thing is this: it hasn't hit 36C yet. It tops out at 35C!! Under full overclocked load!! 2145mhz core, 8000mhz memory, 35 degrees Celsius!! I might need to Furmark this thing.


We usually see a Delat-T from water temp to GPU temp of ~15K. So, if your water temp is around 20°C, this would be absoluteley what I would be expecting. Without a water temp to correlate the GPU temp to, I can't say if the sensor reading is okay or not ://




deme said:


> Merry Christmas!
> 
> (Is that a new rgb pump there?)





Section31 said:


> Hope to see new products from you soon.


One of you is the answer for the other one :hypocrite




Omar Rana said:


> hi everyone, first of all, I finally was able to water cool my GPU after a month struggle from waiting for the products to arrive and so on.
> Since this was my first gaming pc build after more than 12 years, my last graphics card was GeForce 2 MX after that i gave up pc gaming and switched to console.
> Recently my friend offered me his cheap pc to buy and i gave it a shot. And guess what, the pc that was supposed to be budget pc is now turned in to completely high end with an RTX 2080 ti card( was the only reason i wanted to stay away from pc gaming, now too late.)
> 
> Anyways i bought alphacool eiswolf for the GPU to control the temps of my graphics card, it, unfortunately, did not fit because i was such a noob that i did not notice there was a black cover on the PCB of GPU that needed to removed as well.
> 
> Then i ordered heat killer 4, i combined it with alphacool eisbaer aio for CPU.
> Now i have 2x radiator 240mm, cpu+ gpu.
> 
> I am seeing 48 c under full load for my GPU without oc. If i oc it, I get 52 max.
> 
> I have not used heat killer 4 backplate, I wanted to ask is it worth ordering the black plate? will it make any difference?
> Thanks, everyone.


See above: we usually expect the RTX cards to be about ~15-18K above water temp. Without a water temp reading, I can't comment if there is an issue with your GPU block's mounting. I will say though that this is very little radiator, anf the pump is also rather weak for your loop. SO even if the mounting is optimal, there would be ways to improve this loop.


To your question: the backplate definitely improves cooling, as it functions as an aluminum heatsink. As such, it benefits from airflow, but seeing your setup, I'm assuming that you have that.




Kalm_Traveler said:


> Thank you! after reading that and going over a much earlier post in this thread I realized that the block was 'goofy' orientation (I installed it with the branding text horizontal thinking that was 'normal') with the text normal, the out port to the left of the inlet port.
> 
> Twisting the block around to 'normal' orientation (text is vertical, outlet port is below inlet port) I could already tell it was becoming much tighter while threading down the thumb screws, and a quick Cinebench R15 run confirmed it - max temps were 62-63 C, where they were hitting 95+ with the block rotated previously... and I didn't even clean off the thermal paste for another fresh application yet!


Glad to hear that was easy to fix  One word so, we recommend the orientation with the outlet ABOVE the inlet - makes bleeding the air significantly easier.




badkarma3059 said:


> Hi folks. Could use a little help and figured this would be the place to ask. I cannot for the life of me figure out to install the LED strip into the heatkiller IV block for my 2080ti. I didn't see anything in the block instructions or the LED packaging.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated



You have to unscrew the two screws on the backside of the block:










Then, the inlay comes lose, and you can place the strip there.


----------



## TheArkratos

*Copper RGB on RX 5700 xt (Black)*

Jakob,

Is it possible to get a this without the nickel plating? HEATKILLER® IV for Radeon RX 5700 / XT - ACRYL Ni-Bl RGB

I would like the black top, with RGB, but there isn't a copper offering...


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Glad to hear that was easy to fix  One word so, we recommend the orientation with the outlet ABOVE the inlet - makes bleeding the air significantly easier.


Ah ok I just followed the illustrations in the manual, which show it oriented with the outlet below the inlet 


When I remove the block again for delidding + direct die I will flip it around the other way.


----------



## badkarma3059

Awesome! Thanks for the info


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

TheArkratos said:


> Jakob,
> 
> Is it possible to get a this without the nickel plating? HEATKILLER® IV for Radeon RX 5700 / XT - ACRYL Ni-Bl RGB
> 
> I would like the black top, with RGB, but there isn't a copper offering...


Sure. Please send an email with this request to [email protected] . Please include your full shipping address, incl phone number, and we'll make a custom quote for you.




Kalm_Traveler said:


> Ah ok I just followed the illustrations in the manual, which show it oriented with the outlet below the inlet
> 
> 
> When I remove the block again for delidding + direct die I will flip it around the other way.


Ah, I understand why you came to this conclusion! In the manual in chapter3, we stated our recommended orientation, but without a picture. It's not an issue, at all, though - the block usually bleeds air very well. Having the outlet on top just makes it easier, you won't need to shuffle the case around, it just bleeds the air by itself. Your current setup should be just fine.


Note: when using a delidded CPU, you will need to take the changed height into consideration. The feedback that we received from the community is that the HKIV's mounting material is forgiving enough, and the installation works fine. But we never tested it ourself. So please check and double check if you are making good contact!


----------



## TheArkratos

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Sure. Please send an email with this request to [email protected] . Please include your full shipping address, incl phone number, and we'll make a custom quote for you.



You guys are amazing, I'll email you today!


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Ah, I understand why you came to this conclusion! In the manual in chapter3, we stated our recommended orientation, but without a picture. It's not an issue, at all, though - the block usually bleeds air very well. Having the outlet on top just makes it easier, you won't need to shuffle the case around, it just bleeds the air by itself. Your current setup should be just fine.
> 
> 
> Note: when using a delidded CPU, you will need to take the changed height into consideration. The feedback that we received from the community is that the HKIV's mounting material is forgiving enough, and the installation works fine. But we never tested it ourself. So please check and double check if you are making good contact!


Thank you Jakob, i will be delidding and reinstalling the 9900ks for direct-die cooling today (using der8auer's direct die frame) and will definitely double check. I hope that it works because I really enjoy the Water Cool quality vs your competitors that I've used over the years. Last year I had a regular 9900k direct die cooled under an EK Supremacy Evo water block and that one mounted just fine, which is a similar design to the Heat Killer IV so hopefully the HKIV will also work.


----------



## chibi

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Thank you Jakob, i will be delidding and reinstalling the 9900ks for direct-die cooling today (using der8auer's direct die frame) and will definitely double check. I hope that it works because I really enjoy the Water Cool quality vs your competitors that I've used over the years. Last year I had a regular 9900k direct die cooled under an EK Supremacy Evo water block and that one mounted just fine, which is a similar design to the Heat Killer IV so hopefully the HKIV will also work.



KT, are you planning to use liquid metal between the cpu die and heatkiller block or thermal paste? I'm undecided if I want to commit to delidding my KS, but I will stick with thermal paste for between the die and noctua d15s heatsink if I do.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

chibi said:


> KT, are you planning to use liquid metal between the cpu die and heatkiller block or thermal paste? I'm undecided if I want to commit to delidding my KS, but I will stick with thermal paste for between the die and noctua d15s heatsink if I do.


liquid metal.

My personal view is that if you're going as far as delidding a soldered CPU, no reason to opt for anything less than the best TIM - if max performance was not the goal, we wouldn't have delidded (voiding our warranty) in the first place.

Also, I ran LM on a 9900k direct die setup last year. Worked just fine under an EK Supremacy Evo water block, so i am hoping that this Heatkiller block will also work.


----------



## Shawnb99

Kalm_Traveler said:


> liquid metal.
> 
> 
> 
> My personal view is that if you're going as far as delidding a soldered CPU, no reason to opt for anything less than the best TIM - if max performance was not the goal, we wouldn't have delidded (voiding our warranty) in the first place.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I ran LM on a 9900k direct die setup last year. Worked just fine under an EK Supremacy Evo water block, so i am hoping that this Heatkiller block will also work.




The Heatkiller block works perfectly fine. I used it with the Rockit Cool direct die mount for great results. Switched over to the Optimus Signature since then.

When going direct die LM is the way to go, save the thermal paste for the IHS


----------



## J7SC

My :2cents:

...on both 1155 and 1150 delidded, the difference between liquid metal (ie. Coollabs Liquid Ultra) and MX4 and Noctua Nh X was about 3c to 4c at full load such as with CB15 and with Prime 95 back in the day....nothing to sneeze at, but at the end of the day, MX4 and Noctua NHx are still compliant now, while liquid metal has dried out...

*EDIT*

GN's interesting workstation build TR3 (w/Heatkiller IV P) in a Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL, and with dual Tesla V100 (  )...


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

chibi said:


> KT, are you planning to use liquid metal between the cpu die and heatkiller block or thermal paste? I'm undecided if I want to commit to delidding my KS, but I will stick with thermal paste for between the die and noctua d15s heatsink if I do.


hey friend just in case you were curious - just finished delidding and direct die installing the 9900ks, though at the same time I swapped one of the radiators from 280mm to 420mm (2 rads in this system, front was already 420, top was swapped today).

Oddly, so far as I'm letting the air bubbles bleed out again, basic Windows use temp is pretty much identical to stock and 420 + 280 rads, but running Cinebench back to back max temps are down a lot - one core hit 60 for a split second but temps overall settled at 55 C ( ambient is 22.1 C at the moment). Light use temps in Windows are 34-35 C, which is exactly what they were pre-delidding/direct die.


----------



## boostedevo

Is goofy mount preferred on the 9900k with the IV Pro and does it matter if the inlet is on top or bottom? Inlet on bottom would be cleaner tube route for me but the pics of goofy I see are inlet on top.


----------



## ThrashZone

boostedevo said:


> Is goofy mount preferred on the 9900k with the IV Pro and does it matter if the inlet is on top or bottom? Inlet on bottom would be cleaner tube route for me but the pics of goofy I see are inlet on top.


Hi,
9900k has a vertical die so the water jet should also be vertical so no goofy would likely be worse horizontal
But never hurts to try both unless you're hard tube.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

ThrashZone said:


> boostedevo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is goofy mount preferred on the 9900k with the IV Pro and does it matter if the inlet is on top or bottom? Inlet on bottom would be cleaner tube route for me but the pics of goofy I see are inlet on top.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 9900k has a vertical die so the water jet should also be vertical so no goofy would likely be worse horizontal
> But never hurts to try both unless you're hard tube.
Click to expand...

Also the inlet is in the middle, not towards the edge. 

They recommend installing with the outlet at the top for easier air bubble bleeding I think.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

boostedevo said:


> Is goofy mount preferred on the 9900k with the IV Pro and does it matter if the inlet is on top or bottom? Inlet on bottom would be cleaner tube route for me but the pics of goofy I see are inlet on top.


 First of all, the designated inlet is in the center of the block. The port on the outside should be used as exit.
About orientation: we never registered significant temperature differences between goofy and standard orientation. Also, on some 1151 motherboards, goofy orientation is not possible, as some capacitors are so close to the socket area that our mounting brackets collide with them.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> First of all, the designated inlet is in the center of the block. The port on the outside should be used as exit.
> About orientation: we never registered significant temperature differences between goofy and standard orientation. Also, on some 1151 motherboards, goofy orientation is not possible, as some capacitors are so close to the socket area that our mounting brackets collide with them.


Hi,
You should reach out to mods and have them change the title of this thread and remove your naming 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1740052-watercool-heatkiller-corrosion.html

Not sure why it was allowed to exist frankly.


----------



## Mordorr

Is that Goofy thing, the way CPU WB is mounted?


----------



## ProRules

ThrashZone said:


> Watercool-Jakob said:
> 
> 
> 
> First of all, the designated inlet is in the center of the block. The port on the outside should be used as exit.
> About orientation: we never registered significant temperature differences between goofy and standard orientation. Also, on some 1151 motherboards, goofy orientation is not possible, as some capacitors are so close to the socket area that our mounting brackets collide with them.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> You should reach out to mods and have them change the title of this thread and remove your naming
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1740052-watercool-heatkiller-corrosion.html
> 
> Not sure why it was allowed to exist frankly.
Click to expand...

 What does watercool have to do with that topic? The OP blames EK's rad (which I don't necessarily agree with). Also it's most likely OP's fault for running distilled water without any inhibitors or biocide for a while. I've seen a couple of EK blocks corroded to a point where you'd throw them to the bin.


----------



## ThrashZone

ProRules said:


> What does watercool have to do with that topic? The OP blames EK's rad (which I don't necessarily agree with). Also it's most likely OP's fault for running distilled water without any inhibitors or biocide for a while. I've seen a couple of EK blocks corroded to a point where you'd throw them to the bin.


Hi,
Pretty much my point watercool has nothing to do with it 
It's flame thread nobody there could prove one way or another any claims
Nobody even has a heatkiller water block with any corrosion except a linked thread they could of continued their disagreement on 

All watercool gets is a wildly inaccurate web searchable title and yes it does come up on top of search results.

That whole thread needs to be merged with the original or deleted completely.


----------



## ProRules

ThrashZone said:


> ProRules said:
> 
> 
> 
> What does watercool have to do with that topic? The OP blames EK's rad (which I don't necessarily agree with). Also it's most likely OP's fault for running distilled water without any inhibitors or biocide for a while. I've seen a couple of EK blocks corroded to a point where you'd throw them to the bin.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Pretty much my point watercool has nothing to do with it
> It's flame thread nobody there could prove one way or another any claims
> Nobody even has a heatkiller water block with any corrosion except a linked thread they could of continued their disagreement on
> 
> All watercool gets is a wildly inaccurate web searchable title and yes it does come up on top of search results.
> 
> That whole thread needs to be merged with the original or deleted completely.
Click to expand...

Oh now i understand you. Yeah you are right.. that's kind of bs that the mods didn't remove it. Some people would just read the title and assume things.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You should reach out to mods and have them change the title of this thread and remove your naming
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1740052-watercool-heatkiller-corrosion.html
> 
> Not sure why it was allowed to exist frankly.


Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I'll look into it.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I'll look into it.


Hi,
No problem hope you get a helpful ear I seldom do only enterprise seems sensible.


----------



## originxt

Hi, I'm having some really poor performance with my heatkiller iv pro block. I tried remounting multiple times with different orientations and different pastes (kryonaut and hydronaut.) I cleaned out the block and made sure each piece put back as I disassembled. Processor is the 10980xe on the x299 dark. I have 3x 360 with an ambient water temperature of 30.5c. It seems most people are getting temperatures of high 70s and low 80s running the x265 benchmark or Cinebench at 4.8ghz but I'm getting huge deltas of 20c+ into the mid 90s.
1.85 vccin, 1.23 vcore, 32 mesh, 1.2 vmesh.

Also had unusually higher temperatures on my delidded 7700k prior to this build. 

I would normally think it might just be lottery but if a person using a 280 aio gets better temps, there might be a different reason. 

Ill post a screenshot of my hwinfo64 when I get back home. Unsure if it's the processor or the block at this point as I'm getting a good spread of tim on the block when I take it off.


----------



## Hale59

@Watercool-Jakob

PM sent. Please look into it and give your honest opinion.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> Hi, I'm having some really poor performance with my heatkiller iv pro block. I tried remounting multiple times with different orientations and different pastes (kryonaut and hydronaut.) I cleaned out the block and made sure each piece put back as I disassembled. Processor is the 10980xe on the x299 dark. I have 3x 360 with an ambient water temperature of 30.5c. It seems most people are getting temperatures of high 70s and low 80s running the x265 benchmark or Cinebench at 4.8ghz but I'm getting huge deltas of 20c+ into the mid 90s.
> 1.85 vccin, 1.23 vcore, 32 mesh, 1.2 vmesh.
> 
> Also had unusually higher temperatures on my delidded 7700k prior to this build.
> 
> I would normally think it might just be lottery but if a person using a 280 aio gets better temps, there might be a different reason.
> 
> Ill post a screenshot of my hwinfo64 when I get back home. Unsure if it's the processor or the block at this point as I'm getting a good spread of tim on the block when I take it off.


Hi,
Yeah I had absolutely horrible results with HK 4 pro and the water jet vertical for some odd reason so bad I didn't post them in my testing
Only horizontal mount worked well on a 9940x

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1733810-optimus-waterblock-59.html#post28261118


----------



## ProRules

originxt said:


> Hi, I'm having some really poor performance with my heatkiller iv pro block. I tried remounting multiple times with different orientations and different pastes (kryonaut and hydronaut.) I cleaned out the block and made sure each piece put back as I disassembled. Processor is the 10980xe on the x299 dark. I have 3x 360 with an ambient water temperature of 30.5c. It seems most people are getting temperatures of high 70s and low 80s running the x265 benchmark or Cinebench at 4.8ghz but I'm getting huge deltas of 20c+ into the mid 90s.
> 1.85 vccin, 1.23 vcore, 32 mesh, 1.2 vmesh.
> 
> Also had unusually higher temperatures on my delidded 7700k prior to this build.
> 
> I would normally think it might just be lottery but if a person using a 280 aio gets better temps, there might be a different reason.
> 
> Ill post a screenshot of my hwinfo64 when I get back home. Unsure if it's the processor or the block at this point as I'm getting a good spread of tim on the block when I take it off.


Did you screw the block all the way in? (the four long legs/screws).
What is your block's mountain orientation? Because there could be stuck air.
Maybe the pump is running too slow?


----------



## originxt

ProRules said:


> Did you screw the block all the way in? (the four long legs/screws).
> What is your block's mountain orientation? Because there could be stuck air.
> Maybe the pump is running too slow?


I screwed it in all the way, applying equal cross twists. The loop has been completely bled and it's currently mounted horizontally with logo on top. D5 pump is being run at 3400ish rpm. Trying out the optimus block soon, might be the chip or the hk block. The block itself had some weird scuffing on the cold plate when I first bought it new so we'll see if it was maybe a defect.


----------



## vagrant

originxt said:


> I screwed it in all the way, applying equal cross twists. The loop has been completely bled and it's currently mounted horizontally with logo on top. D5 pump is being run at 3400ish rpm. Trying out the optimus block soon, might be the chip or the hk block. The block itself had some weird scuffing on the cold plate when I first bought it new so we'll see if it was maybe a defect.


That still seems like unusual temps even in that instance.


----------



## ProRules

originxt said:


> I screwed it in all the way, applying equal cross twists. The loop has been completely bled and it's currently mounted horizontally with logo on top. D5 pump is being run at 3400ish rpm. Trying out the optimus block soon, might be the chip or the hk block. The block itself had some weird scuffing on the cold plate when I first bought it new so we'll see if it was maybe a defect.


Running goofy shouldn't have such a bad effect on temps if any at all. Usually it's recommended to run with the outlet on top, that's to maximize the air bleeding process.
But something is truly wrong with your temps. I have a question tho.. You said you are running with the logo on top, hence goofy/ports on both sides. Is it possible that some of the block's mounting bracket is hitting one of the capacitors or maybe the motherboard's heatsink? Basically, there's an obstacle that prevents the block from sitting all the way on the CPU? Some mobos support only normal mounting and not goofy.


----------



## originxt

ProRules said:


> Running goofy shouldn't have such a bad effect on temps if any at all. Usually it's recommended to run with the outlet on top, that's to maximize the air bleeding process.
> But something is truly wrong with your temps. I have a question tho.. You said you are running with the logo on top, hence goofy/ports on both sides. Is it possible that some of the block's mounting bracket is hitting one of the capacitors or maybe the motherboard's heatsink? Basically, there's an obstacle that prevents the block from sitting all the way on the CPU? Some mobos support only normal mounting and not goofy.


I should clarify unless I am misunderstanding. I currently have my block mounted in this orientation: http://i.imgur.com/oIoU2udl.jpg at the time of testing. I have no obstructions in mounting the block in any orientation.


----------



## ThrashZone

originxt said:


> I should clarify unless I am misunderstanding. I currently have my block mounted in this orientation: http://i.imgur.com/oIoU2udl.jpg at the time of testing. I have no obstructions in mounting the block in any orientation.


Hi,
That is default position water jet spray vertical if it was a plexi top you'd see it
Sometimes rotating 90 degrees/ Goofy and a horizontal water jet spray will do better my 5930k & 9940x likes it like this.


----------



## Mordorr

I prefer opposite. Heat goes up.
But its a theoretical mine idea lacking proper testing


----------



## D-EJ915

originxt said:


> I should clarify unless I am misunderstanding. I currently have my block mounted in this orientation: http://i.imgur.com/oIoU2udl.jpg at the time of testing. I have no obstructions in mounting the block in any orientation.


Have you opened it up to check to make sure there is nothing in the block causing a blockage? Since you said it was not the best before as well I kind of wonder if there is not an odd problem like water jet not sealing properly or something... I've never used one of these blocks before but it might be worth looking into.


----------



## originxt

D-EJ915 said:


> Have you opened it up to check to make sure there is nothing in the block causing a blockage? Since you said it was not the best before as well I kind of wonder if there is not an odd problem like water jet not sealing properly or something... I've never used one of these blocks before but it might be worth looking into.


Opened and cleaned the block before testing. Still the same issue.


----------



## Madmaxneo

originxt said:


> Opened and cleaned the block before testing. Still the same issue.


Could it have been the delidding process? Has this chip (after delidding) ever run better temps?


----------



## originxt

Madmaxneo said:


> Could it have been the delidding process? Has this chip (after delidding) ever run better temps?


Can't really delid the 10980xe.


----------



## Madmaxneo

originxt said:


> Can't really delid the 10980xe.


Oh, sorry. I had seen where you mention delidding and not getting good temps. I assume then that was with a different CPU but the same loop.

Do you get good flow with the loop?

Have you flushed your loop with a cleaning solution?


----------



## vagrant

Anyone happen to know what screws are needed for the 2080 ti block backplate? 

I’m trying to reuse a backplate I already have but it’s not from Watercool so the screws don’t fit the block.


----------



## Mordorr

Question:


Does my* Heatkiller IV Niquel*, still compatible with last Ryzen models 3xxx?


----------



## ThrashZone

Mordorr said:


> Question:
> 
> 
> Does my* Heatkiller IV Nickle*, still compatible with last Ryzen models 3xxx?


Hi,
If it has a amd mount it will fit if that's what you mean.


----------



## Mordorr

Yes.
I own a 2700X. Hope it goes for this year 4xxx generation too.

Again, thanks!


----------



## vagrant

Does anyone know of a 2080 ti reference backplate that works with the HK block? Seems like it will be a while before I’d track down a watercool one in stock.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

originxt said:


> Hi, I'm having some really poor performance with my heatkiller iv pro block. I tried remounting multiple times with different orientations and different pastes (kryonaut and hydronaut.) I cleaned out the block and made sure each piece put back as I disassembled. Processor is the 10980xe on the x299 dark. I have 3x 360 with an ambient water temperature of 30.5c. It seems most people are getting temperatures of high 70s and low 80s running the x265 benchmark or Cinebench at 4.8ghz but I'm getting huge deltas of 20c+ into the mid 90s.
> 1.85 vccin, 1.23 vcore, 32 mesh, 1.2 vmesh.


We are currently discussing how we can help you. I'm following this, but have no real solution at hand right now. I'll be in touch when we have a troubleshooting process for you.




vagrant said:


> Anyone happen to know what screws are needed for the 2080 ti block backplate?
> 
> I’m trying to reuse a backplate I already have but it’s not from Watercool so the screws don’t fit the block.


The threads in our block are M3. If you use our backplate, we supply M3x12 screws. If you use a different backplate, I can not comment on how long the screws need to be, as I have no knowledge on how thick your backplate is. 

Also, I do not know if your backplate is compatible with the hex head screws that we use to mount our block under the backplate.


----------



## BradleyW

originxt said:


> Hi, I'm having some really poor performance with my heatkiller iv pro block. I tried remounting multiple times with different orientations and different pastes (kryonaut and hydronaut.) I cleaned out the block and made sure each piece put back as I disassembled. Processor is the 10980xe on the x299 dark. I have 3x 360 with an ambient water temperature of 30.5c. It seems most people are getting temperatures of high 70s and low 80s running the x265 benchmark or Cinebench at 4.8ghz but I'm getting huge deltas of 20c+ into the mid 90s.
> 1.85 vccin, 1.23 vcore, 32 mesh, 1.2 vmesh.
> 
> Also had unusually higher temperatures on my delidded 7700k prior to this build.
> 
> I would normally think it might just be lottery but if a person using a 280 aio gets better temps, there might be a different reason.
> 
> Ill post a screenshot of my hwinfo64 when I get back home. Unsure if it's the processor or the block at this point as I'm getting a good spread of tim on the block when I take it off.


I'm sorry if this sounds insulting to a degree but I've seen this happen before with the same block and I believe the same platform....is the block or mounting hardware making any contact with any component around the CPU socket, causing poor seating? A nearby capacitor for instance?


----------



## originxt

BradleyW said:


> I'm sorry if this sounds insulting to a degree but I've seen this happen before with the same block and I believe the same platform....is the block or mounting hardware making any contact with any component around the CPU socket, causing poor seating? A nearby capacitor for instance?


Not insulting at all and I could see that happening to people. But as I stated before, I have no clearance issues.


----------



## Shawnb99

originxt said:


> Can't really delid the 10980xe.




Why can’t you! There’s already deliding kits out there 


https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/co...99-delid-and-relid-kit-for-skylakex-kabylakex


----------



## originxt

Shawnb99 said:


> Why can’t you! There’s already deliding kits out there
> 
> 
> https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/co...99-delid-and-relid-kit-for-skylakex-kabylakex







Because this can happen 

The delid kits are mostly for the 79xx processors where the tim between the ihs and die were still not solder. Starting from the 9900x and up, they began using stim again making it more difficult for the normal guy to delid the cpu. Better for those pursuing extreme overclocks but not for the "general" users. General in quotes since I don't think most people would delid their processors and apply liquid metal. Niche within niche lol.


----------



## Mordorr

Too much thermic paste between cpu and WC (never will understand why people put in the middle only thermic paste).
wrong Vcore values or too much high.
Insufficient radiator for the OC 

First time i use Heatkiller IV with my ryzen i was surprised see it jumping from 21º to 69º load.
Previous Q6600 G0 even at 4G had this problems.


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Why can’t you! There’s already deliding kits out there
> 
> 
> https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/co...99-delid-and-relid-kit-for-skylakex-kabylakex


Hi,
Delidding a soldered chip would not be something advisable 
If it has issues and it does indeed sound like it does 
It would be best to rma it instead of flushing 3 year warranty down the drain.

9900k is a lot different than 10-99-79..xe series
79..xe being the easy one to delid but still not a smart thing to do.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Has anyone heard any news about Watercool's new radiator plans? I remember them talking about it a few months ago on here, and I'm assuming it was referenced in their New Year's post.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

LiquidHaus said:


> Has anyone heard any news about Watercool's new radiator plans? I remember them talking about it a few months ago on here, and I'm assuming it was referenced in their New Year's post.


Still planned, still no release date yet. Sorry.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Still planned, still no release date yet. Sorry.


That's okay, that was enough for me to decide it's still worth it snagging a mo-ra


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

LiquidHaus said:


> That's okay, that was enough for me to decide it's still worth it snagging a mo-ra


You wont regret it!!


Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Aenra

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Still planned


Speaking of plans, my quarterly question repeat! Any news on the dual pump reservoir combos?


----------



## originxt

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are currently discussing how we can help you. I'm following this, but have no real solution at hand right now. I'll be in touch when we have a troubleshooting process for you.


Appreciate it.


----------



## Shenhua

originxt said:


> Hi, I'm having some really poor performance with my heatkiller iv pro block. I tried remounting multiple times with different orientations and different pastes (kryonaut and hydronaut.) I cleaned out the block and made sure each piece put back as I disassembled. Processor is the 10980xe on the x299 dark. I have 3x 360 with an ambient water temperature of 30.5c. It seems most people are getting temperatures of high 70s and low 80s running the x265 benchmark or Cinebench at 4.8ghz but I'm getting huge deltas of 20c+ into the mid 90s.
> 
> 1.85 vccin, 1.23 vcore, 32 mesh, 1.2 vmesh.
> 
> 
> 
> Also had unusually higher temperatures on my delidded 7700k prior to this build.
> 
> 
> 
> I would normally think it might just be lottery but if a person using a 280 aio gets better temps, there might be a different reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Ill post a screenshot of my hwinfo64 when I get back home. Unsure if it's the processor or the block at this point as I'm getting a good spread of tim on the block when I take it off.


I'm not a liquid cooling enthusiast, but air, and i dont know more than the basic stuff, or the things that make sense. 

That being said, and discarding things you already tried or considered, thermal density it's usually the cause, but considering what you said about other ppl and the 7700k, that sounds very unlikely. Also GPU overheating the loop it's highly unlikely due to the size of the loop, and your water temps.

If contact, it's not the problem, thermal density it's not the problem, filth is not a problem, water temps it's not a problem, the only thing that makes sense is that the block for some reason doesn't get enough water moved through it. You might wanna look into that, both directly and indirectly. Pump broken, not enough? Positioning of parts into the loop? Some radiator f..... up? Or maybe an obstruction at some other level?......


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

LiquidHaus said:


> That's okay, that was enough for me to decide it's still worth it snagging a mo-ra


A MO-RA is always worth it, my friend  Definitely the best and longest lasting PC part I ever bought, way before I even worked for this company myself.




Aenra said:


> Speaking of plans, my quarterly question repeat! Any news on the dual pump reservoir combos?


Nope, no news yet. Sorry.


----------



## Aenra

Appreciate the response nonetheless


----------



## chibi

For those with MO-RA, what are some possibilities in running a dual d5 top? Looking at the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 top, thanks.

Either that, or have the standard Res+D5 on the side of the MO-RA with a second D5 inside the computer case could be a possibility.


----------



## Khyzer

I have always had an fascination for the MO-RA series in regards to my dream setup. Specifically running a MO-RA3 420 Pro with 200mm Fans on it under my desk (built into the support legs of the desk to hide from view) and use quick disconnects and a 2nd pump to account for the increased distance. But my main hang up regarding this configuration is how to control the fans. At that distance, the best I can come up with is to use the 5V usb version of the fans and plug them all into a USB hub which connects to the PC. Though it sure would be slick to be able to have fine tune control over PWM. Any ideas about how to make such a setup work? How to control 4 or 8 fans at such a distance?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Khyzer said:


> I have always had an fascination for the MO-RA series in regards to my dream setup. Specifically running a MO-RA3 420 Pro with 200mm Fans on it under my desk (built into the support legs of the desk to hide from view) and use quick disconnects and a 2nd pump to account for the increased distance. But my main hang up regarding this configuration is how to control the fans. At that distance, the best I can come up with is to use the 5V usb version of the fans and plug them all into a USB hub which connects to the PC. Though it sure would be slick to be able to have fine tune control over PWM. Any ideas about how to make such a setup work? How to control 4 or 8 fans at such a distance?



I would place a QUADRO or an OCTO at the MO-RA, and run a Molex power lead & USB lead between it and your system. Then set fan controller curves in the aquasuite.

You can even add a flow sensor and some temperature sensors out there and run through the QUADRO/OCTO.

Edit: Actually, I would forgo the QUADRO and use the OCTO, even if you have only 4 fans. The OCTO has built-in pull-up circuitry to address fans that do not fully comply with the Intel PWM specification.

Edit2: sebastian advised the QUADRO also has the pull-up resistor implemented.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Ordered the MO-RA last night along with another D5 Tube 200 and all the accessories needed to mount them up. Gonna have it hooked up to the 3950x with a new build refresh. Stoked!


----------



## NewType88

Hi, what is the best way method to store a radiator away, for use later ? I might have to do so with my Mo-ra3 420. I have just used DW with X1 clear for coolant. Thanks.


----------



## crappy

Built a nice rig for my brother after his PSU exploded and took the rest of his system with it.


2020-02-08_06-10-14 by The_Crapman, on Flickr


2020-02-08_06-08-55 by The_Crapman, on Flickr


2020-02-07_01-59-55 by The_Crapman, on Flickr

Just love the Watercool blocks. Edged my brother into using them over others, having both CPU and GPU blocks in my own system and being blown away by the quality and performance. They even made me a custom copper block for my 980Ti, as they've previously only done nickel plated versions of the XL block.


DSC_1495 by The_Crapman, on Flickr


2020-02-11_02-09-17 by The_Crapman, on Flickr


----------



## KedarWolf

Can't go direct die with an ASUS Apex XI when both my Velocity and Heatkiller IV Pro waterblock. Here are capacitors around the direct die mount that interfere with both waterblock. 



I bought a Rockit Copper IHS and relidding kit, waiting for it to arrive.


----------



## badkarma3059

my modest contribution


----------



## Darket1234

heya all! Im undecided with what GPU to purchase for video editing with Davinci Resolve. Resolve uses GPU more than CPU so will it be worth it to watercool a RTX 2070 or a 2080? thanks!

Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Madmaxneo

badkarma3059 said:


> my modest contribution


You seem to be missing half your loop....


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Madmaxneo said:


> badkarma3059 said:
> 
> 
> 
> my modest contribution
> 
> 
> 
> You seem to be missing half your loop....
Click to expand...

If you are referring to the plug in his Rad I would have to assume multisport radiator. Given the shape of the end tank and it's a top rad my bet is Alphacool xt45


----------



## badkarma3059

Madmaxneo said:


> You seem to be missing half your loop....



I am terrible at pictures, just wanted to show off the CPU block. Though at the time things were in progress and not complete


----------



## pmc25

Darket1234 said:


> heya all! Im undecided with what GPU to purchase for video editing with Davinci Resolve. Resolve uses GPU more than CPU so will it be worth it to watercool a RTX 2070 or a 2080? thanks!
> 
> Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


Buy a used Radeon VII for Resolve (or two of them).


----------



## Krisztias

Hy Jakob,

can you tell us when the C8H/C8HW chipset coolers will be available?
Did you guys planning to make Ryzen 3000/4000 optimized (full IHS coverage-microfin) waterblock?


----------



## 414347

Hey guys, is watercool.de forum offline or its just me.


----------



## 414347

I am surprised, not a single response and yet, their forum still unavailable..o well


----------



## Asunder

@NewUser16 I've been trying to get to the forums as well and it's not working. Been checking their public pages for some updates, I hope they fix it soon, though.


----------



## 414347

OK thanks I appreciate your confirmation.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Krisztias said:


> Hy Jakob,
> 
> can you tell us when the C8H/C8HW chipset coolers will be available?
> Did you guys planning to make Ryzen 3000/4000 optimized (full IHS coverage-microfin) waterblock?


Sorry, no ETA yet on the CH8 blocks.
The next generation of CPU blocks will take the chiplet design in consideration. No ETA yet.


Our R&D is currently completely booked by a large scale project. We are supplying the cooling solution for yet another car company's selfdriving vehicle project. These kind of projects usually occupy a lot of time and energy, but help us in developing new technologies and buying new eqauipment that we can then use for the end-customer sector. So we try to balance both. 




NewUser16 said:


> Hey guys, is watercool.de forum offline or its just me.


Yes, the forum is currently down. We are aware and try to solve it. If you need assistance, please contact [email protected] via mail.


----------



## sultanofswing

Is there anyone in the U.S. that has a Heatkiller nickel backplate for the 2080ti Reference card?


----------



## J7SC

@Watercool-Jakob 

Does the Heatkiller IV Pro TR4 fully cover the 8 chiplets in an AMD 3990X ? Thanks


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

sultanofswing said:


> Is there anyone in the U.S. that has a Heatkiller nickel backplate for the 2080ti Reference card?


Dazmode is currently receiving a bunch of them.




J7SC said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Does the Heatkiller IV Pro TR4 fully cover the 8 chiplets in an AMD 3990X ? Thanks


Yes, it does.


----------



## J7SC

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Dazmode is currently receiving a bunch of them.
> 
> Yes, it does.


 
Thanks


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Sorry, no ETA yet on the CH8 blocks.
> The next generation of CPU blocks will take the chiplet design in consideration. No ETA yet.
> 
> 
> Our R&D is currently completely booked by a large scale project. We are supplying the cooling solution for yet another car company's selfdriving vehicle project. These kind of projects usually occupy a lot of time and energy, but help us in developing new technologies and buying new eqauipment that we can then use for the end-customer sector. So we try to balance both.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the forum is currently down. We are aware and try to solve it. If you need assistance, please contact [email protected] via mail.


Thanks for the update. It's good to have such other avenues in the current global economic climate. We also benefits from the new equipment,etc eventually.


----------



## originxt

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are currently discussing how we can help you. I'm following this, but have no real solution at hand right now. I'll be in touch when we have a troubleshooting process for you.





originxt said:


> Appreciate it.


Any updates by chance?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi, @Watercool-Jakob

Any issues you've run across with people using Mayhems Inhibitor + and Mayhems Biocide + especially with your nickle plating ?

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ives/mayhems-inhibitorplus-15ml-minh15ml.html

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...itives/mayhems-biocideplus-15ml-mbio15ml.html


----------



## Asunder

I meant to check the forums on this topic but since they've been down for a couple of days...are there advantages to running a nickel-plated block vs full copper? Was wondering if it's better to get the nickel version if the silver fittings are also nickel-plated. Afaik the thermal difference should be insignificant, but then again, that's why I'm asking.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Asunder said:


> I meant to check the forums on this topic but since they've been down for a couple of days...are there advantages to running a nickel-plated block vs full copper? Was wondering if it's better to get the nickel version if the silver fittings are also nickel-plated. Afaik the thermal difference should be insignificant, but then again, that's why I'm asking.


All other factors being equal it's with in margin of error. Nickel Plating is an aesthetic thing for the most part and MILDLY less thermallyconductive than copper but is so thin a plating it's not worth thinking about. If the same cold plate is used in theory the fins are a few microns wider and the grooves a few microns narrower there by making the block SLIGHTLY more restrictive, but should not have a large impact on performance. As for whether or not manufacturers take this into account and build the copper base to a different tolerance before plating I dont know. 

Get what you like the look of. 1-2c in real world performance is the same thing.


----------



## Asunder

ChiTownButcher said:


> All other factors being equal it's with in margin of error. Nickel Plating is an aesthetic thing for the most part and MILDLY less thermallyconductive than copper but is so thin a plating it's not worth thinking about. If the same cold plate is used in theory the fins are a few microns wider and the grooves a few microns narrower there by making the block SLIGHTLY more restrictive, but should not have a large impact on performance. As for whether or not manufacturers take this into account and build the copper base to a different tolerance before plating I dont know.
> 
> Get what you like the look of. 1-2c in real world performance is the same thing.


Thanks for the explanation! I was thinking more in terms of reliability than the looks, to be honest. Well, not that I wouldn't like a cohesive theme for a custom build, but I have to use different finishes anyway due to lack of stock so there's that. 

Since nickel plating peeling off seems to be a pretty frequent topic I read, I was wondering if it was worth getting the pure copper version even when taking potential Cu oxidation into consideration.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Asunder said:


> Thanks for the explanation! I was thinking more in terms of reliability than the looks, to be honest. Well, not that I wouldn't like a cohesive theme for a custom build, but I have to use different finishes anyway due to lack of stock so there's that.
> 
> Since nickel plating peeling off seems to be a pretty frequent topic I read, I was wondering if it was worth getting the pure copper version even when taking potential Cu oxidation into consideration.


While I am sure someone is going to come along a disagree very soon and dozens of people are going to say they have been doing it for years and blah blah ect ect....

Almost all of the Nickel Plating issues I have seen have been related to not following manufacturers instructions. Using straight distilled (bad), using PTNuke (bad), using silver coils (bad), using show fluids with abrasive particles in them that also plug blocks (bad), mixed metals in the loop IE Copper and Aluminum (bad). And again they will say they have done it for years with no problem but almost all of the threads I have read they have done one of the afore mentioned. 

My advice if its worth 2 cents... 

Loop prep...Clean out you rads thoroughly with distilled and lots of shaking to remove large solder/flux debris, Blitz part1, Distilled flush 2x on rads, connect system, Blitz part 2 entire system, flush system 3 times with distilled letting the pump run filled with distilled 30 minutes between drain and refill. 

Then use a quality pre mixed coolant approved by your block manufacturer or distilled with a few drops of Mayhems Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ and change the fluid every 4-6mo. I have never seen a thread (other than a known bad batch of blocks from a manufacturer that I will not name) that followed this and had an issue.

Now for the swarm of people who will undoubtedly tell you I am wrong.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

originxt said:


> Any updates by chance?


Not really. I'd still like to help you. Can you please send your system information and thermal paste spread shots to [email protected] so we have everything in one place? Maybe, wen can help you to find the cause of your problems.




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> Any issues you've run across with people using Mayhems Inhibitor + and Mayhems Biocide + especially with your nickle plating ?
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ives/mayhems-inhibitorplus-15ml-minh15ml.html
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...itives/mayhems-biocideplus-15ml-mbio15ml.html


Never heard of any issue at all. Should be fine.




Asunder said:


> I meant to check the forums on this topic but since they've been down for a couple of days...are there advantages to running a nickel-plated block vs full copper? Was wondering if it's better to get the nickel version if the silver fittings are also nickel-plated. Afaik the thermal difference should be insignificant, but then again, that's why I'm asking.


Nickel vs Copper is a purely aesthetics decision. The nickel layer is only microns thick, if it SHOULD make any difference, this is well withoin the margin of error of any test we have ever seen.
The only other real world benefit of nickel: it will not oxidize. We coat the outside of our Pure Copper blocks, so these will not tarnish, as well, but the cold plate is pure, untreated copper - it will usually tarnish over time and have some discoloration. This also does NOT affect performance in any way, it's just an aesthetic "minus" that you should be aware of. 




ChiTownButcher said:


> While I am sure someone is going to come along a disagree very soon and dozens of people are going to say they have been doing it for years and blah blah ect ect....
> 
> Almost all of the Nickel Plating issues I have seen have been related to not following manufacturers instructions. Using straight distilled (bad), using PTNuke (bad), using silver coils (bad), using show fluids with abrasive particles in them that also plug blocks (bad), mixed metals in the loop IE Copper and Aluminum (bad). And again they will say they have done it for years with no problem but almost all of the threads I have read they have done one of the afore mentioned.
> 
> My advice if its worth 2 cents...
> 
> Loop prep...Clean out you rads thoroughly with distilled and lots of shaking to remove large solder/flux debris, Blitz part1, Distilled flush 2x on rads, connect system, Blitz part 2 entire system, flush system 3 times with distilled letting the pump run filled with distilled 30 minutes between drain and refill.
> 
> Then use a quality pre mixed coolant approved by your block manufacturer or distilled with a few drops of Mayhems Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ and change the fluid every 4-6mo. I have never seen a thread (other than a known bad batch of blocks from a manufacturer that I will not name) that followed this and had an issue.
> 
> Now for the swarm of people who will undoubtedly tell you I am wrong.


 Fully agree. We even use a chemical plating process instead of electrolytic plating. It's extremely hard to get that nickel layer off of the copper, even if you intend to do so! There are basically three ways to damage your nickel plating:
- having an acidic fluid
- creating an electrolytic corossion process (usually by mixed metals)
- setting the block under a current (usually happens by an excessively long soldering pin on the PCB or by wrong installation)
If you make sure that none of these three can happen, you will not have any nickel plating failing.


----------



## Asunder

ChiTownButcher said:


> My advice if its worth 2 cents...
> 
> Loop prep...Clean out you rads thoroughly with distilled and lots of shaking to remove large solder/flux debris, Blitz part1, Distilled flush 2x on rads, connect system, Blitz part 2 entire system, flush system 3 times with distilled letting the pump run filled with distilled 30 minutes between drain and refill.
> 
> Then use a quality pre mixed coolant approved by your block manufacturer or distilled with a few drops of Mayhems Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ and change the fluid every 4-6mo. I have never seen a thread (other than a known bad batch of blocks from a manufacturer that I will not name) that followed this and had an issue.





Watercool-Jakob said:


> Nickel vs Copper is a purely aesthetics decision. The nickel layer is only microns thick, if it SHOULD make any difference, this is well withoin the margin of error of any test we have ever seen.
> The only other real world benefit of nickel: it will not oxidize. We coat the outside of our Pure Copper blocks, so these will not tarnish, as well, but the cold plate is pure, untreated copper - it will usually tarnish over time and have some discoloration. This also does NOT affect performance in any way, it's just an aesthetic "minus" that you should be aware of.
> 
> Fully agree. We even use a chemical plating process instead of electrolytic plating. It's extremely hard to get that nickel layer off of the copper, even if you intend to do so! There are basically three ways to damage your nickel plating:
> - having an acidic fluid
> - creating an electrolytic corossion process (usually by mixed metals)
> - setting the block under a current (usually happens by an excessively long soldering pin on the PCB or by wrong installation)
> If you make sure that none of these three can happen, you will not have any nickel plating failing.


Kudos to both of you for sharing your insights! 
Follow-up on the fluid, is there any way to tell if it's acidic or not? More interested as in a general rule, if manufacturers typically use acidic solutions or not. Asking because I'm quite sure, based on availability, I'll probably not find Mayhems stuff and such and might need to go other routes once I need to replace the liquid. Innovatek says their concentrate is based on a percentage of glycol? Doesn't state anything in regards to acidity, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong btw!


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

Asunder said:


> Kudos to both of you for sharing your insights!
> Follow-up on the fluid, is there any way to tell if it's acidic or not? More interested as in a general rule, if manufacturers typically use acidic solutions or not. Asking because I'm quite sure, based on availability, I'll probably not find Mayhems stuff and such and might need to go other routes once I need to replace the liquid. Innovatek says their concentrate is based on a percentage of glycol? Doesn't state anything in regards to acidity, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong btw!


test with a ph meter or ph stripes or papers and test your fluid/liquid between ph 6.5 -7.5 .maybe you can also try 6-8 if i had that correctly in my head from the mayhems thread.
7 is neutral and if i water my plants for example i have to take care of the ph because innsbruck in austria(where i live) has calcareous water and it has a ph of 8.2 which is nearer to a base.

....you dont wanna run acid(just for cleaning if!! )in your loop and if you like nickelplating, it hurts!

ph of Distilled water 
https://sciencing.com/ph-distilled-water-4623914.html

Measurement of the pH

https://translate.googleusercontent...t.html&usg=ALkJrhjFaimjyxlTZCDyV6RW5rAsrnJ3Ew




Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Asunder said:


> Kudos to both of you for sharing your insights!
> Follow-up on the fluid, is there any way to tell if it's acidic or not? More interested as in a general rule, if manufacturers typically use acidic solutions or not. Asking because I'm quite sure, based on availability, I'll probably not find Mayhems stuff and such and might need to go other routes once I need to replace the liquid. Innovatek says their concentrate is based on a percentage of glycol? Doesn't state anything in regards to acidity, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong btw!


What country do you live in? Its readily available in North America and Europe for Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ thru mail order. 15ml of each will last you years mixed with distilled and they are small dropper bottles so they are easy to store in a desk drawer.


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Jakob Any approx. release date of the new pump that was shown in the xmas/n.year pic?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Asunder said:


> Kudos to both of you for sharing your insights!
> Follow-up on the fluid, is there any way to tell if it's acidic or not? More interested as in a general rule, if manufacturers typically use acidic solutions or not. Asking because I'm quite sure, based on availability, I'll probably not find Mayhems stuff and such and might need to go other routes once I need to replace the liquid. Innovatek says their concentrate is based on a percentage of glycol? Doesn't state anything in regards to acidity, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong btw!


You can test with standard ph-testing methods.


All dedicated watercooling fluids and additives are ph neutral (or close enough to neutral, at least). The problem with acidity usually arises when people clean their loops with aggressive cleaning agents (the notorious "Cilit Bang cleaning method", for example) and do not flush extensively enough. Even when small amounts of a cleaning agent like that remain somewhere in a tube, dead-end port or wherever, they can reduce the overall ph of the system. Over a long time period, this can definitely damage nickel plating. 




deme said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Any approx. release date of the new pump that was shown in the xmas/n.year pic?


Nope, no ETA yet. The whole supply chain for electric components currently suffers under the Corona-crisis. This also affects our product development.


----------



## pmc25

New pump or new pump top?

A new pump would certainly be news ..


----------



## 414347

Well...seems that the official Watercool website took the forum of the grid. I can only assume to many people were persistent (rightfully so) and asking about their orders fulfillment that was delayed extensively.....Am I wrong


----------



## CrazyDiamond

Any info on a block for the Strix RX 5700XT?

Only ones I can find are EK and bitspower.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> New pump or new pump top?
> 
> A new pump would certainly be news ..


Yes, we do plan a new pump, based on the D5. It will include some RGB goodness, sensor reading, and fan control. 




NewUser16 said:


> Well...seems that the official Watercool website took the forum of the grid. I can only assume to many people were persistent (rightfully so) and asking about their orders fulfillment that was delayed extensively.....Am I wrong


You are wrong. The forum software was updated and became incompatible with our general homepage system. Our (very old) homepage only supports up to a ceretain HTML version, and the new forum software went above that. As we are already in the final stage of a new homepage, we decided to focus ressources on the new page, rather than worrying on compatibility on the old one which would be relevant only for a few months. This is also published in the corresponding news. 





CrazyDiamond said:


> Any info on a block for the Strix RX 5700XT?
> 
> Only ones I can find are EK and bitspower.


We do not plan to make a block for that custom PCB layout.


----------



## ruffhi

NewUser16 said:


> Well...seems that the official Watercool website took the forum of the grid. I can only assume to many people were persistent (rightfully so) and asking about their orders fulfillment that was delayed extensively.....Am I wrong


What a rude comment 



Watercool-Jakob said:


> You are wrong.


Jakob ... fixed your response for you. You should have just left it as above.

Or ...



Watercool-Jakob said:


> WRONG


... would have worked too.



Spoiler



just joking ... poking fun at newuser16


----------



## BeeDeeEff

I've got a Heatkiller Pro VI AMD block on a 3950X (bottom right of attached picture) and I'm wondering if I should spin it 180° on the socket, and have the inlet on the bottom, and outlet in the center of the block....in order to try and better center the inlet flow over the core chiplets. I saw derbauer's video on brackets that let you choose how to center a block over the ryzen IHS, but from what I can see of the jetplate of the clear version of the block I might get most of the benefit by just spinning the block around without buying anything......its hard to tell the internal flow pattern from just the bit of the plate I can see though.


Anyone else test different mounting orientations on a 3950x or 3900x (2-chiplet ryzen 3000 cpus) or have any insight on this? If results are similar to der8auer's stuff might get a handful of °C drop when under max load, useful for pushing benchmarks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

BeeDeeEff said:


> I've got a Heatkiller Pro VI AMD block on a 3950X (bottom right of attached picture) and I'm wondering if I should spin it 180° on the socket, and have the inlet on the bottom, and outlet in the center of the block....in order to try and better center the inlet flow over the core chiplets. I saw derbauer's video on brackets that let you choose how to center a block over the ryzen IHS, but from what I can see of the jetplate of the clear version of the block I might get most of the benefit by just spinning the block around without buying anything......its hard to tell the internal flow pattern from just the bit of the plate I can see though.
> 
> 
> Anyone else test different mounting orientations on a 3950x or 3900x (2-chiplet ryzen 3000 cpus) or have any insight on this? If results are similar to der8auer's stuff might get a handful of °C drop when under max load, useful for pushing benchmarks.


The internal layout of the block comes with a jetplate. This jetplate is fixed under the central inlet. The purpose of this inlet is to accelerate the velocity on the moment of impact of the fluid onto the baseplate. This causes more turbulence, and more turbulence can carry more heat load away.
If you connect your block the other way round, NOT using the jetplate at all, you will usually receive temperatures that are 3-5K worse than the designated orientation.


We haven't had the chance to test Romany design ourself, so we can't comment on how much of a difference you will see under a Heatkiller.


----------



## BeeDeeEff

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The internal layout of the block comes with a jetplate. This jetplate is fixed under the central inlet. The purpose of this inlet is to accelerate the velocity on the moment of impact of the fluid onto the baseplate. This causes more turbulence, and more turbulence can carry more heat load away.
> If you connect your block the other way round, NOT using the jetplate at all, you will usually receive temperatures that are 3-5K worse than the designated orientation.
> 
> 
> We haven't had the chance to test Romany design ourself, so we can't comment on how much of a difference you will see under a Heatkiller.



From reading this, I realized I've been using the word jetplate incorrectly. For some reason I was using it as shorthand for the finned block itself.....rather than a plate designed to create or direct and distribute jets of liquid. With that in mind, it makes a lot of sense why I wouldn't want to change the inlet/outlet.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not sure I'd call anything a jet plate 
There is a *cold plate* 
There is a *inlet fluid funnel* that directs and spreads the flow across the center area of the cold plate.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, we do plan a new pump, based on the D5. It will include some RGB goodness, sensor reading, and fan control.


So is that a 'smart' D5, like AquaComputer's D5 Next?

Or is it a new pump that just retains pump top compatibility with the D5, like AlphaCool's garbage VP755?

[Not implying that your product will be bad if it's a new design, like the VP755]


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> So is that a 'smart' D5, like AquaComputer's D5 Next?
> 
> Or is it a new pump that just retains pump top compatibility with the D5, like AlphaCool's garbage VP755?
> 
> [Not implying that your product will be bad if it's a new design, like the VP755]


The pump mechanics will be original Xylem D5. We only add the monitoring and controlling capabilities to the known and trustworthy pump.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Back at it again. Think I went too far? Yes? Good.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The pump mechanics will be original Xylem D5. We only add the monitoring and controlling capabilities to the known and trustworthy pump.


So something akin to the AC D5 Next ... 

IMO one cool differentiating factor you could do is allow for a display and controls to be put on the BOTTOM of the pump housing, rather than sides as with the D5 Next. Some conventional setups have the bottom exposed anyway, or could be orientated to do so. But distro plates are a huge thing now ... and virtually all of them (D5 or not) have the bottom facing towards the case window. Including the huge number of new EK D5 distro plates recently announced (with more incoming apparently). Also think that D5 distro plates previously being rarer won't be the case going forward. More and more people don't want to compromise on performance / noise with distro plates.


----------



## Barefooter

LiquidHaus said:


> Back at it again. Think I went too far? Yes? Good.


I love this build... a Heatkiller CPU block would top it off :thumb:


----------



## skupples

does the EK badge come pre-stuck on the new blocks? feel like I remember one of my recent blocks coming with it coming as a badge I could apply, if I wanted.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi, @LiquidHaus
What happened to the amd optimus foundation ?


----------



## ThrashZone

skupples said:


> does the EK badge come pre-stuck on the new blocks? feel like I remember one of my recent blocks coming with it coming as a badge I could apply, if I wanted.


Hi,
Yes really stuck on need heat gun to take it off
But there is also a round recess there too for the logo so unless you have something else to put there you'll have a hole 
Here it is removed and polished down to the brass sigV2 too


----------



## Rainmaker91

skupples said:


> does the EK badge come pre-stuck on the new blocks? feel like I remember one of my recent blocks coming with it coming as a badge I could apply, if I wanted.


As far as I know all EK blocks come with the badge pre applied, and it has so for quite a while (at least from Supremacy and forward). Now while I do love Watercool blocks (I really do prefer them in front of nearly any other brand), their CPU blocks has one big downside compared to for example EK blocks. If you are mounting it on an AMD CPU, then there is no way to rotate the block so that you get the inlet/outlet spaced horizontally rather than vertically. It's something that has annoyed me with my current build as I am doing CPU and GPU in paralell, in my case I just ahve to get creative with the bends (on the plus side copper pipes can be bent multiple times).


----------



## broodro0ster

I bought the Heatkiller 200 pumpres combo a year ago, but never installed it. But since my holidays abroad are canceled due to the Corona virus, I finally stripped my PC and changed the reservoirs. 
The Heatkiller res looks very good and is quality, but once installed, my pump is so much more quite with this res. I was using the EK pump/res combo and my case and desk started to resonate when the pump speed was above 4300rpm. 
I'm using the optional fan mount brackets to mount it and the enclosed dampers do a really good job. Now I can barely hear the pump at full speed if my fans are running and there is not a single vibration in the case. I'm really happy with the upgrade!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Picked up the last MO-RA3 360 PRO stainless steel (25022) in stock over at sidewinder pc 
No telling when it will appear or how clean it will be 
I assume part 1 & 2 are in order or just part 2 ?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

broodro0ster said:


> I bought the Heatkiller 250 pumpres combo a year ago, but never installed it. But since my holidays abroad are canceled due to the Corona virus, I finally stripped my PC and changed the reservoirs.
> The Heatkiller res looks very good and is quality, but once installed, my pump is so much more quite with this res. I was using the EK pump/res combo and my case and desk started to resonate when the pump speed was above 4300rpm.
> I'm using the optional fan mount brackets to mount it and the enclosed dampers do a really good job. Now I can barely hear the pump at full speed if my fans are running and there is not a single vibration in the case. I'm really happy with the upgrade!


Thanks for the feedback, we appreciate it!




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Picked up the last MO-RA3 360 PRO stainless steel (25022) in stock over at sidewinder pc
> No telling when it will appear or how clean it will be
> I assume part 1 & 2 are in order or just part 2 ?


I do not understand what the question is.


----------



## broodro0ster

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Picked up the last MO-RA3 360 PRO stainless steel (25022) in stock over at sidewinder pc
> No telling when it will appear or how clean it will be
> I assume part 1 & 2 are in order or just part 2 ?


I don't know how clean the MORA rads are, but always do part 1 in the radiators to be safe. Then mount everything and flush the whole loop with part 2 and preferable a filter that picks up the debris.
It's not worth it to skip part 1 to gain some time, but then find out the whole loop is clogged because of some debris in the rads.


----------



## ThrashZone

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Picked up the last MO-RA3 360 PRO stainless steel (25022) in stock over at sidewinder pc
> No telling when it will appear or how clean it will be
> I assume part 1 & 2 are in order or just part 2 ?





Watercool-Jakob said:


> I do not understand what the question is.


Hi,
My bad forgot to say Mayhems part 1 which is solely for cleaning radiators if that was necessary most radiators don't come with plugs on the ports so I was just wondering how well you guys clean before shipping them out do you run them to clean out flux/.... ?
Mayhems part 2 is automatic use product 



broodro0ster said:


> I don't know how clean the MORA rads are, but always do part 1 in the radiators to be safe. Then mount everything and flush the whole loop with part 2 and preferable a filter that picks up the debris.
> It's not worth it to skip part 1 to gain some time, but then find out the whole loop is clogged because of some debris in the rads.


Hi,
Thanks 
Yeah this is normal policy I was just asking really how does watercool clean before shipping these units
Obvious leak testing maybe... supposed to come with plugs so that alone would be a new thing seeing no other rad has ever come with any.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> My bad forgot to say Mayhems part 1 which is solely for cleaning radiators if that was necessary most radiators don't come with plugs on the ports so I was just wondering how well you guys clean before shipping them out do you run them to clean out flux/.... ?
> Mayhems part 2 is automatic use product
> 
> 
> Yeah this is normal policy I was just asking really how does watercool clean before shipping these units
> Obvious leak testing maybe... supposed to come with plugs so that alone would be a new thing seeing no other rad has ever come with any.


The MO-RA radiators are tube radiators, not flat style radiators. There is no internal soldering, so there obviously is no soldering flux in these radiators at all. It is, of course, theoretically possible that chips from the POM or other physical particles could fall into a tube. So we do recommend flushing them out with water before installing them. Other than that, no cleaning is required.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The MO-RA radiators are tube radiators, not flat style radiators. There is no internal soldering, so there obviously is no soldering flux in these radiators at all. It is, of course, theoretically possible that chips from the POM or other physical particles could fall into a tube. So we do recommend flushing them out with water before installing them. Other than that, no cleaning is required.


Hi,
Thank you :thumb:


----------



## keeph8n

I can't decide if I want to do yet another MORA3 420 for my daily setup....


----------



## sdmf74

LiquidHaus said:


> Back at it again. Think I went too far? Yes? Good.


Sweet setup! I didnt know Noiseblocker had released new fans till I saw this pic & went searchin.
I assume these are the NB-Eloop X fans.

Can you please confirm for me if they suffer from the same annoying audible defect as the previous NB-Eloop fans when mounted horizontally???

Usually when ran above 1350rpm


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> Sweet setup! I didnt know Noiseblocker had released new fans till I saw this pic & went searchin.
> I assume these are the NB-Eloop X fans.
> 
> Can you please confirm for me if they suffer from the same annoying audible defect as the previous NB-Eloop fans when mounted horizontally???
> 
> Usually when ran above 1350rpm


As far as I know Eloops don't react to horizontal mounting. What they do react to is anything placed in front of them, mostly when it's closer than 20-30mm, the effect is noticable above roughly 1000rpm. I could be wrong though, so if there is another issue with them then I would apreciate if you clearify it for me.


----------



## sdmf74

You might be right I just assumed it was caused from horizontal mounting cause the ones I've used vertically dont make that awful noise but they also weren't attached to a radiator.
The six I had mounted to my top HL rad are the ones that sounded awful so it could have been the close proximity to the radiator.
I remember seeing several posts about it but it's been a while & I dont remember the specific cause. I just replaced them with x3m EK fans so I dont have to worry about it anymore but I am curious if Noiseblocker Has fixed the problem in the new ones.

Now that I think about it that's a terrible defect to have considering fans are mostly used mounted to radiators. I cant image NB making that same mistake again


----------



## Rainmaker91

sdmf74 said:


> You might be right I just assumed it was caused from horizontal mounting cause the ones I've used vertically dont make that awful noise but they also weren't attached to a radiator.
> The six I had mounted to my top HL rad are the ones that sounded awful so it could have been the close proximity to the radiator.
> I remember seeing several posts about it but it's been a while & I dont remember the specific cause. I just replaced them with x3m EK fans so I dont have to worry about it anymore but I am curious if Noiseblocker Has fixed the problem in the new ones.
> 
> Now that I think about it that's a terrible defect to have considering fans are mostly used mounted to radiators. I cant image NB making that same mistake again


It's only an issue if the fans are mounted in a "pull" configuration behind a grill, radiator or heatsink. When placed in a "push" config they are fine, so we might be talking about different issues here.

As far as design changes goes... They would have to do something fairly drastic to fix the isse, because it's a design characteristic of how the blades funtion. So they might have fixed it, but I can't really say for certain. They are spectacular fans all things considered, just wish they didn't have those issues.


----------



## sdmf74

I really liked them that is why I was inquiring about the new ones. Had I known about them a few days ago I may not have bought 8 of the new EKs


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Got the mora 3 pro 360 no feet includes 
Blitz part 2 in a temp loop picking up a little in the filter no biggie


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Got the mora 3 pro 360 no feet includes
> Blitz part 2 in a temp loop picking up a little in the filter no biggie


We offer four different mounting solutions:
- you can install the radiator to the side of your case with the included M4 spacer bolts
- black POM feet

- clear acrylic feet
- wall mounting brackets to hang the rad on any horizontal surface (romm walls, for example)


We decided to include only the simplest solution, so we wouldn't have to overcharge everybody else with a mounting solution that they don't need or want.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We offer four different mounting solutions:
> - you can install the radiator to the side of your case with the included M4 spacer bolts
> - black POM feet
> 
> - clear acrylic feet
> - wall mounting brackets to hang the rad on any horizontal surface (romm walls, for example)
> 
> 
> We decided to include only the simplest solution, so we wouldn't have to overcharge everybody else with a mounting solution that they don't need or want.


Hi,
Thanks yeah feet would of just been in the way I'm just going to use 20" box fans and be done.

Only issue I see is the fan screws really 
All stainless steel #1 tip easy to strip very small head, too small for most fans so lots of washers probably would fit on ML120mm fans.

Most of the stuff in the mora was black plastic from the water ports milling.


----------



## sdmf74

I've never even considered it matter of fact I'm ashamed to admit I didnt even know watercool made the MO-RA radiators but after visiting this thread I'm thinking that MO-RA3 420 PRO - WHITE would look sexy next to my black & white caselabs! especially with the right fans.
Guess I might start looking into what all I would need. You guys think I would need another D5? My flow rates arent that impressive anyway.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
If already using dual d5's no probably wouldn't need a third d5.

I'm already using dual d5's in a single cpu/ gpu loop so flow should still be fine I do have a third if i think I need it though


----------



## sdmf74

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> If already using dual d5's no probably wouldn't need a third d5.
> 
> I'm already using dual d5's in a single cpu/ gpu loop so flow should still be fine I do have a third if i think I need it though /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif


No I've just got the single D5pwm right now


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> No I've just got the single D5pwm right now


Hi,
420 is bigger than a 360 mora so yeah likely would at the least need to add another d5 if flow is really slow.
Most slow the pumps down to around 3500 rpm anyway from full blast 4800 rpm so there is a little room for flow drop.


----------



## jura11

sdmf74 said:


> I've never even considered it matter of fact I'm ashamed to admit I didnt even know watercool made the MO-RA radiators but after visiting this thread I'm thinking that MO-RA3 420 PRO - WHITE would look sexy next to my black & white caselabs! especially with the right fans.
> Guess I might start looking into what all I would need. You guys think I would need another D5? My flow rates arent that impressive anyway.


Hi there 

I would personally add extra D5 or DDC pump to loop

In my Caselabs M8 with pedestal I'm running 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm and I'm using or running 1*XSPC D5 Vario and dual Laing DDC 3.25 18W pumps and my flow rate too is not very impressive... 

My flow rate is somewhat in 130-150LPH as max with all pumps running at max speeds, MO-ra3 360mm is around 1m away from Caselabs M8 and really recommend use EK ZMT or Watercool EPDM or Tygon A-60-G tubing, tried to use other tubings and I recommend add Quick Disconnect fittings to loop, it will makes everything much more easier 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## sdmf74

It would be awesome if watercool figured out a way to incorporate a D5 pump directly into the MO-RA.

Yeah I considered quick disconnects that would make things much easier & I have a ton of ZMT. Which QD's do you use with your MO-RA?


----------



## Abaidor

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 420 is bigger than a 360 mora so yeah likely would at the least need to add another d5 if flow is really slow.
> Most slow the pumps down to around 3500 rpm anyway from full blast 4800 rpm so there is a little room for flow drop.


I have the big Stainless Steel MORA with 9X ML 140 Pro fans.......it is above my Tower in a shelf on the wall.

I run it with the Dual D5 Revo from EK and have the pumps @ 2.500rpm and the fans run at 550rpm most of the time...that is with ambient temps at 20C......It is only during stress testing that the fans accelerate at 1200rpm and pumps at 3.500....

It's the most quiet system I ever had......

With that said.....I am so tempted to ad a second MORA sometime in the future although it is not needed.......might run it passive too....


----------



## ThrashZone

sdmf74 said:


> It would be awesome if watercool figured out a way to incorporate a D5 pump directly into the MO-RA.
> 
> Yeah I considered quick disconnects that would make things much easier & I have a ton of ZMT. Which QD's do you use with your MO-RA?


Hi,
Optimus 75.00 pwm D5 has sata powered and local if the pump has issue it would be a local rma anything else would be rma to Germany no fun or micro center with additional costs for in store warranty.
Any base reservoir combo would be fine.

https://optimuspc.com/


----------



## keeph8n

I use the Koolance QDCs with my 420 setup. Work like a charm. I also run a single D5 Next from AQ at 100% all the time. Never hear it. 



For fans I use TT Riing at their lowest RPM setting and never have any issues with temps.


I've had up to four GPUs and a single CPU on this setup at one time with no issues and no crazy drop that would affect performance.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yep koolance direct from their website are the best deals 26.00 a pair I just got 4 pairs from them.
Amazon/... usually 10 more a pair.


----------



## Satanello

Good afternoon and best wishes for a happy Easter to all 
A couple of days ago I received the beautiful Mo-ra 360 with the 9 NB-eLoop B12-1 fans I can't wait to install it but unfortunately one of the fans does not work well and emits an annoying squeak during operation I will have to do immediately rma (order 17906).
Jackob the rma form exists only in german?
At this Youtube link I uploaded a video where I compare a perfectly functioning fan with the one that "squeaks": 



Thanks in advance for your feedback.


----------



## lkramer

*Mounting Hardware for HEATKILLER IV PRO for Threadripper*

@Watercool-Jakob

I somehow lost one of the springs for the HEATKILLER IV PRO for Threadripper.

I have several spare springs from the HEATKILLER IV (INTEL processor) block, the LGA 2011 Narrow ILM conversion kit and the AM4 conversion kit.

Would I be able to use any of those springs as a replacement? If none of those are suitable replacements, would it be possible to purchase the mounting hardware for the HEATKILLER IV PRO for Threadripper block or do I have to purchase a new block?


----------



## warpuck

https://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_IV.pdf ON the HKIII you just used a dial caliper to measure the spring compression. It appears the difference with the HKIV is you use the same studs for AMD and different washers to change the spring compression. If every thing is pretty much the same between AMD and Intel I would guess that the thinner ones are for AMD as the CPU body can withstand more pressure.
Edit: I am only guessing. Somebody from WaterCool will either confirm or deny my best guess on this. I almost wrote WasserKuhl.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi, @Watercool-Jakob
I could really use four more assembly screws for intel heatkiller 4 pro cold plate...

Bought a HK 4 Pro off amazon mom/ pop store turns out it was used and screws were darn near stripped pretty bad for hex head lol 
But either way I need four more exact size or can they be purchased and cheaply shipped to the US ?

Tried some bitspower screws right size just a little too short and don't go all the way through the mounting plate :/


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> @Watercool-Jakob
> I could really use four more assembly screws for intel heatkiller 4 pro cold plate...
> 
> Bought a HK 4 Pro off amazon mom/ pop store turns out it was used and screws were darn near stripped pretty bad for hex head lol
> But either way I need four more exact size or can they be purchased and cheaply shipped to the US ?
> 
> Tried some bitspower screws right size just a little too short and don't go all the way through the mounting plate :/


Are these the parts you are looking for? Watercool has spare parts for a ton of stuff at their own store if you need something, otherwise they also have good custommer support at their site (and Watercool-Jacob is always helpful to). If you need something right now then I would look for 4mm screws at the correct length or get something that is to long and cut it to size. I can't speak for the intel mounting hardware, but the AMD hardware is 4mm.

Or maybe I am thinking about the wrong screws, either way every watercool product I have seen uses metric sized screws wityh a standard thread so you can get them fairly easily. though it might be slightly harder if you live in a non metric country (as in you have to find them on amazon instead of just the local hardware store).


----------



## ThrashZone

Rainmaker91 said:


> Are these the parts you are looking for? Watercool has spare parts for a ton of stuff at their own store if you need something, otherwise they also have good custommer support at their site (and Watercool-Jacob is always helpful to). If you need something right now then I would look for 4mm screws at the correct length or get something that is to long and cut it to size. I can't speak for the intel mounting hardware, but the AMD hardware is 4mm.
> 
> Or maybe I am thinking about the wrong screws, either way every watercool product I have seen uses metric sized screws wityh a standard thread so you can get them fairly easily. though it might be slightly harder if you live in a non metric country (as in you have to find them on amazon instead of just the local hardware store).


Hi,
Thank you but no 
I need the four cold plate screws that go into the mounting plate and holds everything together.
Yeah not a high dollar item just need to know exact sizes.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thank you but no
> I need the four cold plate screws that go into the mounting plate and holds everything together.
> Yeah not a high dollar item just need to know exact sizes.


I see, did yours come without them at all ordon't you have the tools to measure yourself? Given that the block is the same I can do some measurements for you on my block if you want, it's in a box next to my desk so it shouldn't be to difficult to do.

Edit: 
Did a quick measurement with a goniometer and calipers:

Diameter and thread: 3mm and standard m3 thread
Length: 10mm
Length from angle: 8mm
angle of head: 21 degrees


----------



## ThrashZone

Rainmaker91 said:


> I see, did yours come without them at all ordon't you have the tools to measure yourself? Given that the block is the same I can do some measurements for you on my block if you want, it's in a box next to my desk so it shouldn't be to difficult to do.


Hi,
I could take them to the hardware store if coronavirus wasn't an issue 
But yeah I was hopping for exact thread size mostly 
Most US stuff doubt I could get hex head screws usually only Philips heads are common.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I could take them to the hardware store if coronavirus wasn't an issue
> But yeah I was hopping for exact thread size mostly
> Most US stuff doubt I could get hex head screws usually only Philips heads are common.


Updated my previous post with the measurements. The angle might be 20* or 22* as my instruments are not that accurate, but it should be enough to give you an idea. Do you need the diameter of the head as well or is what I posted sufficient?

Do you plan on drilling them out? I'm curious how you would take them out without damaging the threads in the block. I have some ideas, but I am also always looking for other peoples view on how to do things to.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I got the originals out okay I just don't feel good about reusing them 
The black ones in the image I posted before are the bitspower screws that do fit just don't go near as far into the silver mounts as the originals did so not sure I feel all that good about using them either since they don't go all the way through the mounting bracket :/


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I got the originals out okay I just don't feel good about reusing them
> The black ones in the image I posted before are the bitspower screws that do fit just don't go near as far into the silver mounts as the originals did so not sure I feel all that good about using them either since they don't go all the way through the mounting bracket :/


I see, well I did a test fit with some 10mm long standard m3 screws that I have laying around and the fit is perfect. It doesn't matter if it's star/philips head, flat head, hex/unbraco head or even torx. Just make sure it's got a flat head and an angle unlike the dome headed ones I used in this picture (it might work, but they can porctrude a bit from the plate).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Thanks yeah I prefer cast screws if Philips heads but indeed looks like home depot probably has some that will work okay


----------



## Section31

Wonder how is the supply chain going for the radiators. Reason i ask is i'm thinking about doing an self-enclosed radiator project this summer based on an Mo-Ra3. Haven't decided between the 360 and 420 models. That and waiting out for global shipping issues to be resolved.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Missed the PPC discount codes and looked a couple days before they had a 420 mora I would of gotten it with the 15% off if I'd known :/
360 mora is doing okay knocked 4c of my max water temp so far 
Now 30c before was hitting 34c 
Translation in core temps I'm still working on that one lower clocks 4.5-4.7 looking good 3c cooler but loosing it at 4.8 it's only 1c cooler so still some contact issue might can be improved.


----------



## lkramer

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Thank you but no
> I need the four cold plate screws that go into the mounting plate and holds everything together.
> Yeah not a high dollar item just need to know exact sizes.


The cold plate screws are standard 10mm long M3 0.5mm thread hex drive flat head screws. They have a 90 degree countersunk angle.

You can other them in Black-Oxide Alloy Steel (part no. 91294A130), 18-8 Stainless Steel (part no. 92125A130) or 316 Stainless Steel (part no. 93395A204) from McMaster-Carr. They are also available from Fastenal. Your local hardware store may also have them.


----------



## Section31

I do have question on the external Mo-Ra3 360 vs 420. How much improvement in water loop temperature do you generally get from using one in a loop. Doing some cost benefit analysis. Right now my water temps are high 20's on idle and hit near 40 on heavy load.


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> I do have question on the external Mo-Ra3 360 vs 420. How much improvement in water loop temperature do you generally get from using one in a loop. Doing some cost benefit analysis. Right now my water temps are high 20's on idle and hit near 40 on heavy load.


And what's ambient temp right now? And what's your current radiator setup? That also play a role. But if you're hitting 40's right now, it will drop quite a bit.
I'd guess you delta T will be halved with a MORA. Maybe even more if you don't have an efficient rad setup.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> I do have question on the external Mo-Ra3 360 vs 420. How much improvement in water loop temperature do you generally get from using one in a loop. Doing some cost benefit analysis. Right now my water temps are high 20's on idle and hit near 40 on heavy load.


Hi,
360 mora has been about 4c cooler max water temp 
Went from 34c max to now 30c max idles around 28c with 9 assorted low rpm fans and one 20" box fan with a filter though 

Before only had 2-280 gtx rads on 2-D5's 30c idle and max 34c
Flow took a little bit of a hit but still seems fine no way to measure flow besides reservoir activity.
But mora 360 does just about double my rad surface.

But indeed your 40c water max is a lot seeing your idle is so much lower at 20c ? really burrrrr


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 360 mora has been about 4c cooler max water temp
> Went from 34c max to now 30c max idles around 28c with 9 assorted low rpm fans and one 20" box fan with a filter though
> 
> Before only had 2-280 gtx rads on 2-D5's 30c idle and max 34c
> Flow took a little bit of a hit but still seems fine no way to measure flow besides reservoir activity.
> But mora 360 does just about double my rad surface.
> 
> But indeed your 40c water max is a lot seeing your idle is so much lower at 20c ? really burrrrr


Mo-Ra is actually less restrictive than most regular radiators due to them being based on tubes rather than small chambers and restrictive channels through the fins. The pure size might be a bit impactful though.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
It does have lots of tubing to go through I'd guess 50 foot


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It does have lots of tubing to go through I'd guess 50 foot


Yep, though those are not restrictive at all compared to a regular radiator. Still the actual length of the run could be quite impactful for flow rate, though only actual measurements could say how much it matters.


----------



## Section31

My setup is dual GTR360 with single d5 next. Rad Fans are A12x25 running at 75%. It hit high 30s only if stressing the system out. Pump usually runs at 40% unless i am benchmarking. Room temperature is like 25-26 degrees.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You really need to use rig builder and add your rigs to your signature


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You really need to use rig builder and add your rigs to your signature /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I had it on old ocn but they lost it on transition. It’s never an final project lol. First i was thinking about moving the setup in question back into my caselabs s8 (from a pc-011xl) and adding extra radiator and d5 res/pump. However it would get cramped pretty fast from my experience with x299 in it. So it became an external rad project.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You really need to use rig builder and add your rigs to your signature /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


This all started because i wanted to do an project this year that has long term value as 2022 is Intel 7nm/amd 5nm. That and its looking like 3080ti is 2021/2022 project at this time. Figured why not try to improve the cooling of my existing setup. I wouldn’t need to get new case as i doubt there will something akin to the sma8a revision quality wise and its radiator support it offered.


----------



## newls1

i have a brand new Heatkiller Pro IV All Copper Intel block sitting here and was wondering if this will still be a great WB for the 10900k about to drop, OR ..... does heatkiller have a new optimized block coming out soon??? Thank you for any reply


----------



## Rainmaker91

newls1 said:


> i have a brand new Heatkiller Pro IV All Copper Intel block sitting here and was wondering if this will still be a great WB for the 10900k about to drop, OR ..... does heatkiller have a new optimized block coming out soon??? Thank you for any reply


I'm sure you could potentially optimize it more for a specific CPU, but in reality there is actually very little difference in performance between a block from 10 years ago and a brand new one (there is some sure, but not as much as you might suspect). The only CPUs that benefit from a total redesign are ones where the die on the CPU streches further to the edge of the interposer (and thus IHS) than the fins of the block covers. Examples of this is some blocks for Ryzen CPUs and the obvious one is Threadripper/Epyc where the issue was more that the blocks didn't even come close to cover the dies of the CPU for some of companies (Asetek and EKWB mainly) as they simply adapted a block that was to small for the job.

So some nice rules to follow is this: 
1. Does the actual finstack of the block cover the die area? if so then you are fine, if not get a new block.
2. does the block fit the new CPU socket or have a way to be adapted to fit it? if so then you are fine, if not then get something that does fit.

Now I know some people will come with the argument that "if they don't improve that much, why release a new design at all?" and I can understand that standpoint. However just becasue what they had still works fine doesn't mean they shouldn't make incremental updates to the design over time for people who don't have a block laying around.

So in most cases it really won't matter that much as long as the 2 "rules" still apply to the block you already have it's going to be perfectly fine for any new CPU design as well. There may be exceptions to the rule ofcourse, but I seriously doubt that the 10900k will come with anything revolutionary. It's your money though, so if you feel like returning what you have and waiting to see if soemthing new comes along then feel free to do so, but it won't make that much of a difference at the end of the day.


----------



## Section31

newls1 said:


> i have a brand new Heatkiller Pro IV All Copper Intel block sitting here and was wondering if this will still be a great WB for the 10900k about to drop, OR ..... does heatkiller have a new optimized block coming out soon??? Thank you for any reply


I think they said in the past they wouldn’t come out since there results show minimal gains. Again, its hard to say as ekwb magnitude, optimus has maybe changed there minds. 

That being said, i wonder if they are finished there car water cooling project yet. They mentioned that it was there main focus atm. They got new equipment for it etc. In that post, they mentioned they got delays on the new pumps. I imagine they also probably are being asked to retooled to help make respirators,etc too.


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> My setup is dual GTR360 with single d5 next. Rad Fans are A12x25 running at 75%. It hit high 30s only if stressing the system out. Pump usually runs at 40% unless i am benchmarking. Room temperature is like 25-26 degrees.


That's strange. Do you have dual GPU's or something like that?
I have 2x GTS 360 radiators with a single D5. My fans spin at 1250rpm and my watertemps are about 33-34°C with 25-26°C room temps. 

At first I was running the front radiator as intake and the top one as exhaust. Then I tried both radiators as intake and my water temps dropped 5°C. So you might try that if you have one intake and one exhaust radiator.

Also, the GTR radiators aren't so good with lower fans speeds. They need at least 2000rpm to perform as good as any other radiator and above 2500rpm it slams every radiator. But that's really loud. 
I always advise against the GTR. The SR2 or GTS is the best choice for low noise setups. The GTX is somewhere in between SR2 and GTR as far as noise/performance.


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> That's strange. Do you have dual GPU's or something like that?
> I have 2x GTS 360 radiators with a single D5. My fans spin at 1250rpm and my watertemps are about 33-34°C with 25-26°C room temps.
> 
> At first I was running the front radiator as intake and the top one as exhaust. Then I tried both radiators as intake and my water temps dropped 5°C. So you might try that if you have one intake and one exhaust radiator.
> 
> Also, the GTR radiators aren't so good with lower fans speeds. They need at least 2000rpm to perform as good as any other radiator and above 2500rpm it slams every radiator. But that's really loud.
> I always advise against the GTR. The SR2 or GTS is the best choice for low noise setups. The GTX is somewhere in between SR2 and GTR as far as noise/performance.


I will look into altering the radiator intake and exhaust idea though. Could explain the difference. Once I setup the aquacomputer flow meter, i will get better idea (barrows one is inaccurate). 

I have read the reviews done by VSG/Thermal Bench on it. I wasn't actually aiming for low noise setup, just maximum fan speed i can run on normal usage without being extremely loud. That's why I went with the A12x25. I can run them at higher range than I could with my Gentle Typhoon 2150rpm (they got loud around 60%). Even at 100%, the A12x25 (2000rpm) are not loud and cooling numbers aren't that different. That being said, an Mo-ra3 external rad makes an interesting project for an portable water cooler - perfect for testing out parts on


----------



## Section31

I ended up getting of the last of the local supply of the mo-ra3 420LT. My question is can I run it on the internal d5 pump in my computer. Otherwise I can setup an reservoir less d5 pump (I have an spare d5 ultitop and d5 next around).

Reason is I still haven't decided on the reservoir for it as I may endup getting an Optimus Absolute reservoir and then would move over the existing heatkiller tube with pump over to the Mo-Ra3.


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> I ended up getting of the last of the local supply of the mo-ra3 420LT. My question is can I run it on the internal d5 pump in my computer. Otherwise I can setup an reservoir less d5 pump (I have an spare d5 ultitop and d5 next around).
> 
> Reason is I still haven't decided on the reservoir for it as I may endup getting an Optimus Absolute reservoir and then would move over the existing heatkiller tube with pump over to the Mo-Ra3.


I shouldn't be a problem. The MORA adds some restriction. It's about 2-3x the restriction of a normal radiator IRC. So 1 D5 will do although you'll have some lower flow rates.
I would install an extra D5 externally if you have one laying around but I'm not sure if will improve your temps. But I guess it can't hurt to test it ;-)


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

lkramer said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> 
> I somehow lost one of the springs for the HEATKILLER IV PRO for Threadripper.
> 
> I have several spare springs from the HEATKILLER IV (INTEL processor) block, the LGA 2011 Narrow ILM conversion kit and the AM4 conversion kit.
> 
> Would I be able to use any of those springs as a replacement? If none of those are suitable replacements, would it be possible to purchase the mounting hardware for the HEATKILLER IV PRO for Threadripper block or do I have to purchase a new block?


Yup, you can totally use the springs from the other moutning kits, they are all the exact same. Difference in mounting pressures is achieved via different mounting bolts. Nevertheless, we also do have two accessory packs for Threadriopper, as well:
https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18051
https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18052




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> @*Watercool-Jakob*
> I could really use four more assembly screws for intel heatkiller 4 pro cold plate...
> 
> Bought a HK 4 Pro off amazon mom/ pop store turns out it was used and screws were darn near stripped pretty bad for hex head lol
> But either way I need four more exact size or can they be purchased and cheaply shipped to the US ?
> 
> Tried some bitspower screws right size just a little too short and don't go all the way through the mounting plate :/


Yup, these screws are available here: https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18050 If you want to source them locally, they areM3x10 DIN7991 A2 screws.




Section31 said:


> Wonder how is the supply chain going for the radiators. Reason i ask is i'm thinking about doing an self-enclosed radiator project this summer based on an Mo-Ra3. Haven't decided between the 360 and 420 models. That and waiting out for global shipping issues to be resolved.


The supply chain is good, all MO-RA3 rads are readily available. Depending on your country, our shipping partners DHL and/or FedEx might apply restrictions. These change daily, unfortunately. I can only recommend to check their status reports.




Section31 said:


> I do have question on the external Mo-Ra3 360 vs 420. How much improvement in water loop temperature do you generally get from using one in a loop. Doing some cost benefit analysis. Right now my water temps are high 20's on idle and hit near 40 on heavy load.


It is impossible to give a fixed number here. It all depends on ambient temperature, flow rate, fan setup, fan speed, air volume, etc. 

As a comparison: My private system is a highly overclocked i5 6600K and EVGA 1070FTW. The Mora 360 is equipped with four Silverstone Air penetrator 180mm fans. In idle, they spin with 200rpm, water temp is ~26°C (ambient ~22°C). Under 1 hour Furmark and prime 95, the fans ramp up to ~750rpm and water temp reaches ~35°C.


As the square area of the MO-RA 420 is 36% bigger than that of the MO-RA 360, you will also yield accordingly better results.




Rainmaker91 said:


> Mo-Ra is actually less restrictive than most regular radiators due to them being based on tubes rather than small chambers and restrictive channels through the fins. The pure size might be a bit impactful though.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> It does have lots of tubing to go through I'd guess 50 foot


MO-RA3 360: 28meter (90ft) of copper tubing
MO-RA3 420: 36meter (118)ft of copper tubing
In both cases, they are in quadruple parallel, so the water has to flow over a distance of 22ft/29ft. A round copper pipe of 6.5mm inner diamter provides close to no restriction, no matter the length of it. 




newls1 said:


> i have a brand new Heatkiller Pro IV All Copper Intel block sitting here and was wondering if this will still be a great WB for the 10900k about to drop, OR ..... does heatkiller have a new optimized block coming out soon??? Thank you for any reply


Nope, there is no new block planned for the intel platform currently. Your existing HKIV is more than capable of cooling this CPU. 




Section31 said:


> That being said, i wonder if they are finished there car water cooling project yet. They mentioned that it was there main focus atm. They got new equipment for it etc. In that post, they mentioned they got delays on the new pumps. I imagine they also probably are being asked to retooled to help make respirators,etc too.


We are constantly producing our standard gear! My comment was more about the development of new products that was slowed down by that big industrial project. But yes, we are also constantly developing new products for our end customers, as well. I'll keep you updated when products are ready for release!


----------



## sakete

I just got in a new Heatkiller block for my 980ti (got one since I'll probably have it for another year until Nvidia releases the 3080ti). Is it recommended to clean these first? Or are they perfectly clean and ready to use? Either way I'll be running Blitz 2 through my entire loop as I'm also installing another radiator. Will that be sufficient?


----------



## Section31

Thanks all for input. Looking forward to how the mo-ra3 420LT performs. Going to be using Arctic Cooling P140 Fans. Will add its own pump/res and other stuff in the coming months. 

Its good to be ready for summer time when the rig ambient temps going to jump up a lot. Right now its not needed as temperatures are pretty cool.

Will keep eye on heatkiller new products too.


----------



## lkramer

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yup, you can totally use the springs from the other moutning kits, they are all the exact same. Difference in mounting pressures is achieved via different mounting bolts. Nevertheless, we also do have two accessory packs for Threadriopper, as well:
> https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18051
> https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18052


Thank you for letting me know about the springs. I will use the springs from one of my unused mounting kits.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

sakete said:


> I just got in a new Heatkiller block for my 980ti (got one since I'll probably have it for another year until Nvidia releases the 3080ti). Is it recommended to clean these first? Or are they perfectly clean and ready to use? Either way I'll be running Blitz 2 through my entire loop as I'm also installing another radiator. Will that be sufficient?


No, you do not need to clean the block. Just install it in your system and run Blitz2, that is more than enough.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Thanks Jacob found some at home depot only difference is flat head instead of hex


----------



## Dante444

Hello, I recently bought a Heatkiller Tube D5, the problem is that I do the leak test with the EKWB Leak Test and at 0.5 / 0.6 it gives me a leak. I emailed watercool and they tell me that their tanks are designed to hold water, not pressurized air. 
What is your opinion? take a risk is it normal to have air leakage?

Thanks and greetings


----------



## Rainmaker91

Dante444 said:


> Hello, I recently bought a Heatkiller Tube D5, the problem is that I do the leak test with the EKWB Leak Test and at 0.5 / 0.6 it gives me a leak. I emailed watercool and they tell me that their tanks are designed to hold water, not pressurized air.
> What is your opinion? take a risk is it normal to have air leakage?
> 
> Thanks and greetings


They are correct in saying that the parts are designed to hold water and not air in. Air has entirelly different properties than water and while you could potentially leak test something with air that doesn't necessarily mean it's leak free with water, and the same can be said the other way around.

Some propertries of water that are really important for this specific test:
- Water needs a lot higher pressure to compress than air does, and in a loop that is virtually impossible to achieve. What needs to be adressed in a loop is that water expands quite drastically when temperature increases, so always leave some air in your reservoir to acount for that. My old bitspower reservoir started leaking every time the water temp increased, draining some water and leaving a bit of air in the reservoir fixed that.
- Water moulecules are significantly larger than air molecules, which means that a gasket designed to hold water perfectly fine could leak when pressure testing with air. This means that you are unlikely to have any issues with leaks with water in the loop rather than air.

If you are concerned about your reservoir, so a simple leak test outside your system with a simple tubing run going from the pump to the reservoir (you can add the blocks and rads to the loop if you want to test them to, but if all you want to test is the reservoir then just have that in the loop) then set it to run for a while with paper towels at all the connecting points (fittings, gaskets, and whatever else you might have). You will know really quickly wheter or not the pump/res is an issue or not.


----------



## Dante444

I understand, is what Jacob told me about watercool.
He wanted to know more if someone did this test and he was also leaking.
Thank you very much for your explanation.


----------



## Abaidor

When I tested my loop with pressurized air including my Heatkiller reservoir it passed perfectly fine (no D5 version though)...........just make sure o-rings are properly seated....but still Rainmaker91 is right.....


----------



## Dante444

Abaidor said:


> When I tested my loop with pressurized air including my Heatkiller reservoir it passed perfectly fine (no D5 version though)...........just make sure o-rings are properly seated....but still Rainmaker91 is right.....



At what pressure did you try it and how long did you leave it? did you do it with the EKWB test? Thank you.


----------



## Abaidor

Dante444 said:


> At what pressure did you try it and how long did you leave it? did you do it with the EKWB test? Thank you.


Not too much pressure......certainly no more than 2 Bars and yes I tested with an EK Velocity....

I tested for 24 Hours....

BTW you can't know which part leaks air to be honest.....it could be the fittings too....I use all Bitspower including quite a lot of complex parts.


----------



## Dante444

Abaidor said:


> Not too much pressure......certainly no more than 2 Bars and yes I tested with an EK Velocity....
> 
> I tested for 24 Hours....
> 
> BTW you can't know which part leaks air to be honest.....it could be the fittings too....I use all Bitspower including quite a lot of complex parts.


I am testing it outside the pc, I mounted it and seeing that it was leaking I reassembled my old alphacool.

I really don't see a leak with liquid, outside the pc I made a mini loop and started it with my replacement pump for 30 minutes and it doesn't leak.

My only problem is that with air it does not last 10 minutes at 0.5 bar.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Dante444 said:


> Hello, I recently bought a Heatkiller Tube D5, the problem is that I do the leak test with the EKWB Leak Test and at 0.5 / 0.6 it gives me a leak. I emailed watercool and they tell me that their tanks are designed to hold water, not pressurized air.
> What is your opinion? take a risk is it normal to have air leakage?


 There are several things here:
First of all, to set the theoretical basis here: we all need to understand that "leakfree" does not exist. No connection known to mankind is leakfree. In engineering, leak rates are defined as "how much of which material leaks under which pressure over which time". As you see, there are four variables in this term: quantity, material, pressure and time. Under these four variables, you can define which leak rate is acceptable for your application. This, for example, is the reason why every watercooling loop will loose water over time: the NBR o-rings have a leak rate, as well. And so does PVC or EPDM tubing: your loop DOES leak through both your tubes and your -rings - it's just so little quantity and so slow that it doesn't matter. 

Secondly, there is an inherent problem with the commercial pressure drop products: they come with several connections on their own. You usually connect the pump, the gauge, the ball valves with fittings of some sorts. All these connections and all these parts themselves can be leaking air on themselves. Seeing a pressure drop does only indicate that the SYSTEM is loosing pressure, not necessarily the product that is being put to test. Users usually only operate with these pressure drop products once: when assembling a loop. They usually have very little experience with them. So getting false-negative results can very often be traced back to incorrect assembly or handling.

Now, after we got these two base parameters out of the way, let's assume that Dante444 used the Leak Tester correctly, so there actually is a drop loss in the Reservoir. This still does by all means not necessarily mean that the reservoir is defect. So, what could be the problem?
The Heatkiller reservoir in it's standard edition has a wide opening in the top that can be opened by hand. This opening is sealed with a very small o-ring. This o-ring is absolutely not designed to hold pressurized air - hell, it's not even designed to hold water! It is only there to close the lid tight. We assume that this o-ring might be the weak spot when stressed with pressurized air. Is this a problem? not at all. This part of the loop will never be under the coolant level (or the pump would run dry). So while the Leak Tester technically gives a leak, it is completely within specs: the "leak" was never meant to hold water, to begin with. Even more: it is a benefit that air pressure can normalize over this. Else, you would have negative pressure in your reservoir over time, and this makes it incredibly hard to ever open the reservoir again.

So, as stated via email, we recommend testing the reservoir in it's designated usecase, when in doubt: vertically, filled with water. I am very sure that you will find that it does not leak water at all.


(btw, fun fact: we test all our components with 2bar (~30psi) of air pressure, including the reservoirs. They do not leak under that pressure. Sounds weird? Yup, it is. We assume that 2bar put that much stress on the o-ring that it deforms so strongly that it actually holds the seal, while 0,5bar does just not put ENOUGH stress on it. Remember how I said that the term "leakfree" comes under a number of conditions and with several variables in the beginning and that the same item can be "leaking" and "leakfree" when changing these variables?)


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Not sure anyone does this but it is best to wet o-rings before tightening stuff against them so they don't get damaged and you can get a snugger fit that have a better chance of not leaking or also being air tight.
Any brand base reservoir combo can leak even ek's I have two that leak if too much air is still in the system and turning the system on and off you can clearly see the water level drop and rise doing this.
That water level difference creates a suction turning on and a push turning off so usually a leak in the weakest place will appear if fittings... are snug as possible = wet all o-rings.


----------



## iamjanco

Blowing bubbles. You can leak test anything (including your air leak tester) using air by spraying it with the right soapy water mixture. Same principle as blowing bubbles.

That's not so say of course that what holds water under pressure will work exactly the same way for air (what Jakob shared). But if you're losing pressure while testing using air, you can at least narrow the possibilities down to where the air is leaking, then inspect closely. I use a higher-end Palmerwahl gauge in my setup these days, because one of the cheaper so-called pressure drop testers failed on me.


----------



## Dante444

Watercool-Jakob said:


> There are several things here:
> First of all, to set the theoretical basis here: we all need to understand that "leakfree" does not exist. No connection known to mankind is leakfree. In engineering, leak rates are defined as "how much of which material leaks under which pressure over which time". As you see, there are four variables in this term: quantity, material, pressure and time. Under these four variables, you can define which leak rate is acceptable for your application. This, for example, is the reason why every watercooling loop will loose water over time: the NBR o-rings have a leak rate, as well. And so does PVC or EPDM tubing: your loop DOES leak through both your tubes and your -rings - it's just so little quantity and so slow that it doesn't matter.
> 
> Secondly, there is an inherent problem with the commercial pressure drop products: they come with several connections on their own. You usually connect the pump, the gauge, the ball valves with fittings of some sorts. All these connections and all these parts themselves can be leaking air on themselves. Seeing a pressure drop does only indicate that the SYSTEM is loosing pressure, not necessarily the product that is being put to test. Users usually only operate with these pressure drop products once: when assembling a loop. They usually have very little experience with them. So getting false-negative results can very often be traced back to incorrect assembly or handling.
> 
> Now, after we got these two base parameters out of the way, let's assume that Dante444 used the Leak Tester correctly, so there actually is a drop loss in the Reservoir. This still does by all means not necessarily mean that the reservoir is defect. So, what could be the problem?
> The Heatkiller reservoir in it's standard edition has a wide opening in the top that can be opened by hand. This opening is sealed with a very small o-ring. This o-ring is absolutely not designed to hold pressurized air - hell, it's not even designed to hold water! It is only there to close the lid tight. We assume that this o-ring might be the weak spot when stressed with pressurized air. Is this a problem? not at all. This part of the loop will never be under the coolant level (or the pump would run dry). So while the Leak Tester technically gives a leak, it is completely within specs: the "leak" was never meant to hold water, to begin with. Even more: it is a benefit that air pressure can normalize over this. Else, you would have negative pressure in your reservoir over time, and this makes it incredibly hard to ever open the reservoir again.
> 
> So, as stated via email, we recommend testing the reservoir in it's designated usecase, when in doubt: vertically, filled with water. I am very sure that you will find that it does not leak water at all.
> 
> 
> (btw, fun fact: we test all our components with 2bar (~30psi) of air pressure, including the reservoirs. They do not leak under that pressure. Sounds weird? Yup, it is. We assume that 2bar put that much stress on the o-ring that it deforms so strongly that it actually holds the seal, while 0,5bar does just not put ENOUGH stress on it. Remember how I said that the term "leakfree" comes under a number of conditions and with several variables in the beginning and that the same item can be "leaking" and "leakfree" when changing these variables?)


Right now I am testing the tank alone, absolutely alone, without any fittings, only caps and the Ek Test, I also tested that the Ek test worked correctly doing a test only to the test. 
My tank is multiport superior, all the tests my alphacool tank has passed without problem, that's why I was a little scared that the heatkiller did not. 

I will do the test with soap and water as the partner says. Thank you.


----------



## NewType88

@Watercool-Jakob Hey, what is the best way to store a mo-ra3 ? I will probably will have to discontinue using one, but I dont know for how long.


----------



## Rainmaker91

NewType88 said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Hey, what is the best way to store a mo-ra3 ? I will probably will have to discontinuing using one, but I dont know for how long.


Same way as any other radiator, run Blitz kit 1 and then 2 in it (blitz 1 removes all debris, while blitz 2 makes sure it's PH neutral for long term storage). Then you just pack it howevr you think you need to store it somewhere, idealy in the original packaging but a couple of layers of bubble wrap works fine to (maybe put some cardboard over the fins for extra protection). This is how I both store mine long term and prepare them for sale and subsequent sending to, and other than the size I don't see how a Mo-Ra would be any different.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I didn't use blitz part 1 on the mora I got just blitz part 2 
I asked the same question a page or two back blitz part 2 was the reply.


----------



## Rainmaker91

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I didn't use blitz part 1 on the mora I got just blitz part 2
> I asked the same question a page or two back blitz part 2 was the reply.


True, if it's already relatively clean then you can get by with just using part 2. I use part 1 as well since the fluid is reusable after you clean your rads (at least for a couple of rinses), and blitz part 2 neutralizes part 1 which is nice. The least expensive option would be to just flush it with distilled water/DI water, but it won't remove as much as blitz.


----------



## Darket1234

Anyone know if the MSI RTX 2070 Aero code V373-009 will have gpu issues with rtx block? the gpu compatibility guide says V373-002R
thanks!

Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## ThrashZone

Rainmaker91 said:


> True, if it's already relatively clean then you can get by with just using part 2. I use part 1 as well since the fluid is reusable after you clean your rads (at least for a couple of rinses), and blitz part 2 neutralizes part 1 which is nice. The least expensive option would be to just flush it with distilled water/DI water, but it won't remove as much as blitz.


Hi,
Yeah mora fewer places for crap to be 
Pretty straight forward design and dude did say there is no soldering so that would take away a lot of stuff part 1 is to clean.
Only some black plastic was in the filter I used to catch stuff.


----------



## NewType88

Rainmaker91 said:


> Same way as any other radiator, run Blitz kit 1 and then 2 in it (blitz 1 removes all debris, while blitz 2 makes sure it's PH neutral for long term storage). Then you just pack it howevr you think you need to store it somewhere, idealy in the original packaging but a couple of layers of bubble wrap works fine to (maybe put some cardboard over the fins for extra protection). This is how I both store mine long term and prepare them for sale and subsequent sending to, and other than the size I don't see how a Mo-Ra would be any different.


Right on, sounds like a good way to go about it. Would you attempt to dry it out with an air compressor or something as well ?


----------



## Rainmaker91

NewType88 said:


> Right on, sounds like a good way to go about it. Would you attempt to dry it out with an air compressor or something as well ?


Nah there is no need, but it doesn't hurt. All you need to make sure of is that the last flush of the radiator is PH neutral, as that will determine wheter or not you got all previous debris/fluid away or Blitz1 away. Just check with some cheap PH paper strips (Blitz kits come with some), storing a radiator with acids or bases can degrade the copper tubing over time (even if it may take a decade for it to do so).

All in all you just want it to be clean before storing it over time, how you achieve that doesn’t really matter as long as the end result is a PH neutral surface inside the radiator.


----------



## NewType88

Rainmaker91 said:


> Nah there is no need, but it doesn't hurt. All you need to make sure of is that the last flush of the radiator is PH neutral, as that will determine wheter or not you got all previous debris/fluid away or Blitz1 away. Just check with some cheap PH paper strips (Blitz kits come with some), storing a radiator with acids or bases can degrade the copper tubing over time (even if it may take a decade for it to do so).
> 
> All in all you just want it to be clean before storing it over time, how you achieve that doesn’t really matter as long as the end result is a PH neutral surface inside the radiator.


Cool, this is what I will do then. Thanks for your help.


----------



## PTcyap

Shawnb99 said:


> The Heatkiller block works perfectly fine. I used it with the Rockit Cool direct die mount for great results. Switched over to the Optimus Signature since then.
> 
> When going direct die LM is the way to go, save the thermal paste for the IHS


Hi.. I am about to do the same. Direct die using a rockitcool direct die frame. I do have a couple of question though as this is my first time doing a direct die.
1. How did you mount your Heatkiller block.. Standard(Inlet and outlet are vertical)? or Goofy(Inlet and outlet are horizontal)?
2. Did you use the optional intel backplate from watercool?
3. Did you use washers between the standoff and the motherboard? (because according to rockitcool's EK waterblock video guide in youtube, they removed the stock washer between the standoff and the motherboard so the waterblock can mount lower to compensate of the IHS thickness allowing it to make contact with the die)

I am using a Z390 Aorus Master motherboard.. Please someone help a newbie here.. I kept searching all over the internet and I came up with zero answers so far. I emailed rockitcool 3 times and no response. I commented on their youtube video and also no response. I am running out of options of where to get an answer for my concerns.


----------



## InfoSeeker

@Watercool-Jakob - is there a black version available for a "MO-RA3 420 Fan Grill (high version)"?
I only see a WHITE option at the web-shop.


----------



## iamjanco

InfoSeeker said:


> @Watercool-Jakob - is there a black version available for a "MO-RA3 420 Fan Grill (high version)"?
> I only see a WHITE option at the web-shop.


I see a *black version*.


----------



## PTcyap

shiokarai said:


> Heatkiller IV Pro cooling nicely 9900ks delidded & direct die with RockIt Cool Direct Die Frame - no modifications needed to the mounting whatsoever, working like a charm
> 
> 5.3 Ghz


Well that is a relief. I do have a couple of questions though.
1. I assume you used Liquid metal as TIM?
2. Did you try mounting it in Goofy(Inlet and outlet are horizontal)?


----------



## InfoSeeker

iamjanco said:


> I see a *black version*.



Thank you!

I was looking in the wrong place, Radiators>Accessories>MO-RA3 Accessories
But it is only listed under Radiators>MO-RA3>MO-RA3 420 Accessories


----------



## GAN77

Hi guys!

What do you think about the new i9-10900K and the size of the crystal?

The dimensions of the cold platinum Watercool Heatkiller IV CPU Water Block is 27 mm. Can a cold plate block the crystal?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I believe the area is 31mm or 1-3/16" so should cover the die on 10900k or kfc
Heatkiller 4 pro mounting would be best with the ports side by side seeing the die is vertical not horizontal like the 7900x is.


----------



## PTcyap

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I believe the area is 31mm or 1-3/16" so should cover the die on 10900k or kfc
> Heatkiller 4 pro mounting would be best with the ports side by side seeing the die is vertical not horizontal like the 7900x is.


When you say side by side you mean in the goofy mounting position right? Like this?










https://imgur.com/bqHC3fb


----------



## ThrashZone

PTcyap said:


> When you say side by side you mean in the goofy mounting position right? Like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://imgur.com/bqHC3fb


Hi,
Yes that is goofy mount with in/ outlet ports side by side.
8700k/ 9900k and i imagine 10900k are all vertical die's 
Only the 7900x and some 78 series have horizontal dies.

I like testing both positions personally to see which performs best.


----------



## GAN77

ThrashZone said:


> I like testing both positions personally to see which performs best.


I think, the best position is the “inkjet plate” along the crystal.
Correspondingly, the edges of the cold plate are perpendicular to the crystal.


----------



## PTcyap

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes that is goofy mount with in/ outlet ports side by side.
> 8700k/ 9900k and i imagine 10900k are all vertical die's
> Only the 7900x and some 78 series have horizontal dies.
> 
> I like testing both positions personally to see which performs best.


The way I understand how the jet plate works is that it should be the same position as the die for optimal performance. I am not sure though if I can mount it goofy style in a direct die setup without hitting any capacitors.


----------



## ThrashZone

GAN77 said:


> I think, the best position is the “inkjet plate” along the crystal.
> Correspondingly, the edges of the cold plate are perpendicular to the crystal.


Hi,
Yes but your blue rectangle is opposite of the way the die is orientated on the socket 
That blue rectangle should be vertical not horizontal 

Proper water jet flow should be this way the same direction as the die is


----------



## GAN77

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes but your blue rectangle is opposite of the way the die is orientated on the socket
> That blue rectangle should be vertical not horizontal


You're right. Just the photo is rotated 90 degrees. In fact, the crystal is vertical. You can mentally rotate the photo)


----------



## ThrashZone

PTcyap said:


> The way I understand how the jet plate works is that it should be the same position as the die for optimal performance. I am not sure though if I can mount it goofy style in a direct die setup without hitting any capacitors.


Hi,
Heatkiller 4 pro is pretty high off the socket so I would be surprised if anything was in the way 
10900k I interested in this release too 
Doubt I would direct die a new chip with unknown life cycle though seeing that flushes 3 year warranty bye bye.


----------



## GAN77

PTcyap said:


> The way I understand how the jet plate works is that it should be the same position as the die for optimal performance. I am not sure though if I can mount it goofy style in a direct die setup without hitting any capacitors.


Another problem may occur. The waterblock fixture is very close to the memory slots.
For example Asus rogstrix z490-e


----------



## ThrashZone

GAN77 said:


> You're right. Just the photo is rotated 90 degrees. In fact, the crystal is vertical. You can mentally rotate the photo)


Hi,
Yes but we were talking about optimum rotation which your image is not so it's misleading the way it is so just trying to be clear what goofy mount is with the other fellow


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Heatkiller 4 pro has a pretty stout mount plate so it can be manipulated with a dremel easily if need be.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

InfoSeeker said:


> Thank you!
> 
> I was looking in the wrong place, Radiators>Accessories>MO-RA3 Accessories
> But it is only listed under Radiators>MO-RA3>MO-RA3 420 Accessories


Thanks for pointing this out! I'll correct that!




ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Yes that is goofy mount with in/ outlet ports side by side.
> 8700k/ 9900k and i imagine 10900k are all vertical die's
> Only the 7900x and some 78 series have horizontal dies.
> 
> I like testing both positions personally to see which performs best.



As far as we know, our current Heatkiller IV will be compatible with socket 1200. We are currently awaiting our test samples, so we can make a definite statement. We will, of course, also test orientations, so we can make a recommendation that isn't just pure speculation.


Please also keep in mind that on Socket 1151, some boards had capacitors so close to the socket area that sometimes, only the normal orientation (ports vertically above each other) was possible. We can't comment on wether this problem persists on 1200 boards yet.


----------



## farpetrad

I'd like to join, have a Heatkiller iv tr4-pro all copper. Just got it installed over the weekend and loving the look of the block.


----------



## NullARC10

One of the two 140mm fan mounts for my reservoirs came with six M4x8 screws instead of two M4x8 and four M4x6 screws .

Thankfully I had bought a bunch of extra/spare parts, and ended up using the screws from a heatkiller anti-vibration mount kit instead, but they're a different style of screw (rounded "button" head instead of the cylindrical "cap" head), so now the mounts don't match :thumbsdow.

After some research I figured out the correct terminology/type for those screws, but I can't find anything that matches the style _and_ color on my local hardware store's site...the closest I could find were some screws that looked somewhat similar, but were still _way_ too long. I guess either I need to buy the longer ones and cut them shorter with a dremel, or try to find a closer match online at a different shop... Kinda annoyed that this slipped past QC, especially at this price point, but it's an understandable mistake. If anyone knows where I could find an exact or very close match to the original screws, please let me know!

I also managed to break the standpipe for my second reservoir's alternate top while screwing it in :doh:! Turns out these dip tubes are made of extruded acrylic ("Plexiglas XT"), although I had fastened and removed the standpipe on my first reservoir multiple times without incident... Anyways, that was my screwup for not being careful enough, and I ended up buying a couple replacement standpipes along with a bunch of misc spare/replacement parts and some flashy colored struts & aRGB LED strips from watercool.de. Somewhat painfully expensive, but ah well, at least I'll get some nice colored struts and aRGB LEDs out of it, and if I break (almost) anything else I'll have a replacement on hand...


----------



## Section31

FYI it looks like any orders heading out of Germany now are hit by logistics delays. So be patient all.


----------



## InfoSeeker

NullARC10 said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> One of the two 140mm fan mounts for my reservoirs came with six M4x8 screws instead of two M4x8 and four M4x6 screws .
> 
> Thankfully I had bought a bunch of extra/spare parts, and ended up using the screws from a heatkiller anti-vibration mount kit instead, but they're a different style of screw (rounded "button" head instead of the cylindrical "cap" head), so now the mounts don't match :thumbsdow.
> 
> 
> After some research I figured out the correct terminology/type for those screws, but I can't find anything that matches the style _and_ color on my local hardware store's site...the closest I could find were some screws that looked somewhat similar, but were still _way_ too long. I guess either I need to buy the longer ones and cut them shorter with a dremel, or try to find a closer match online at a different shop... Kinda annoyed that this slipped past QC, especially at this price point, but it's an understandable mistake. If anyone knows where I could find an exact or very close match to the original screws, please let me know!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I also managed to break the standpipe for my second reservoir's alternate top while screwing it in :doh:! Turns out these dip tubes are made of extruded acrylic ("Plexiglas XT"), although I had fastened and removed the standpipe on my first reservoir multiple times without incident... Anyways, that was my screwup for not being careful enough, and I ended up buying a couple replacement standpipes along with a bunch of misc spare/replacement parts and some flashy colored struts & aRGB LED strips from watercool.de. Somewhat painfully expensive, but ah well, at least I'll get some nice colored struts and aRGB LEDs out of it, and if I break (almost) anything else I'll have a replacement on hand...



McMaster.com is my go-to site for screws... and just about ANY hardware I need.


----------



## Darket1234

@Watercool-Jakob *jedi mind trick* you wish to update the GPU compatibility to include RTX 2060 Super


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> As far as we know, our current Heatkiller IV will be compatible with socket 1200. We are currently awaiting our test samples, so we can make a definite statement. We will, of course, also test orientations, so we can make a recommendation that isn't just pure speculation.
> 
> 
> Please also keep in mind that on Socket 1151, some boards had capacitors so close to the socket area that sometimes, only the normal orientation (ports vertically above each other) was possible. We can't comment on wether this problem persists on 1200 boards yet.


Hi,
Probably find that out too seeing 10900k I might end up with 

Think you missed this inquiry here
https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-440.html#post28435926


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Darket1234 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* *jedi mind trick* you wish to update the GPU compatibility to include RTX 2060 Super


As far as we know, all 2060 Super use the layout of the 2070 reference PCB. as that is the short version, none of our blocks is compatible with any 2060 Super. I don't really see the point of adding ONLY incompatible cards... If you know of any 2060 super using the long PCB layout (=2080 reference), please send me their details, preferably to [email protected] , and I'll check them out. 




ThrashZone said:


> Think you missed this inquiry here
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-...fficial-heatkiller-club-440.html#post28435926


Nope, I didn't. Please re-read my last answer regarding sockelt 1200. Right now, everything I could comment would be pure speculation, and I don't think it's fruitful if I participate in that with an official account. When we received our testing samples, we will provide a fact-based answer to this. Until then, we'll just have to wait.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
You guys test heatkiller 4 pro against ek magnitude yet ?


----------



## InfoSeeker

@Watercool-Jakob:

Is it possible to raise the HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter, as depicted in the snapshot below, in order to mount two of the adapters to the side of a MO-RA3?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> You guys test heatkiller 4 pro against ek magnitude yet ?


We tested it on a Ryzen 3950X. On that CPU, theHeatkiller was between 0,8 and 1,4°C better than the competitor. 

We didn't test on an intel platform, as we disassembled the 1151 system, and are waiting to set up the 1200 system. 




InfoSeeker said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* :
> 
> Is it possible to raise the HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter, as depicted in the snapshot below, in order to mount two of the adapters to the side of a MO-RA3?


Nope, this is not possible. The upper and lower holes are only guidance holes for the fan grills, not threaded mounting holes.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We tested it on a Ryzen 3950X. On that CPU, theHeatkiller was between 0,8 and 1,4°C better than the competitor.
> 
> We didn't test on an intel platform, as we disassembled the 1151 system, and are waiting to set up the 1200 system.


You have a socket 1200 cpu already? I have been searching for release dates or pre-orders for the 10900k but I haven't been able to find anything. I already have the ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula Z490 ready to go for pre-order but I will need the cpu by the end of this month. Otherwise I will go with either an AMD 3950 or an intel 9900k setup (which both look to be a little more expensive than the socket 1200 system when it is released).


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Key work being waiting to setup a 1200 system


----------



## Madmaxneo

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Key work being waiting to setup a 1200 system


I get that, but am hoping his response is when and/or where I can pre-order...lol.


----------



## ThrashZone

Madmaxneo said:


> I get that, but am hoping his response is when and/or where I can pre-order...lol.


Hi,
Last I saw posted newegg has some preorder options on boards.
Say release is 5-20-2020


----------



## Madmaxneo

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Last I saw posted newegg has some preorder options on boards.
> Say release is 5-20-2020


Yeah, I've got the ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula Z490 in my cart ready for preorder, but I see no sense in ordering it if there is no way to pre-order the 10900k.


----------



## ThrashZone

Madmaxneo said:


> Yeah, I've got the ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula Z490 in my cart ready for preorder, but I see no sense in ordering it if there is no way to pre-order the 10900k.


Hi,
Got to start somewhere 
B & H photo usually has pre-order stuff


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Madmaxneo said:


> I get that, but am hoping his response is when and/or where I can pre-order...lol.


I obviously can't comment on that, as we are also under NDA from intel. You'll have to wait for them to make the final announcements.


----------



## Section31

Thank you all for your advise. Good timing for me to get the Mo-Ra3 Radiator. 

First hot summer day and water temps were hitting 40 meaning room temps must have been 29-30 degrees. No major effect on cpu and water loop temps thankfully. Now to finish the project off.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Thank you all for your advise. Good timing for me to get the Mo-Ra3 Radiator.
> 
> First hot summer day and water temps were hitting 40 meaning room temps must have been 29-30 degrees. No major effect on cpu and water loop temps thankfully. Now to finish the project off.


Hi,
Just picked up another mora this time the 360LT black cleaning now on a separate loop like I did on 360 pro stainless
Looks better than the preview images on performance pc thankfully and matches the images on watercool site but fan brackets weren't preinstalled as said they were said to be
No big deal all parts were there enough for fans on one side


----------



## Section31

WIP of my Mo-Ra3. Waiting for the Optimus Fittings to come in and the BP Advanced White 12mm/BP White Fittings and Tubing so I can do the outlet(heatkiller tube 150 d5) to inlet of the Mo-Ra3. Front is clear, Back is where all the fans are.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Nice got my 360LT black all ready just ran out of mods fluid might show up tomorrow and get it going


----------



## PTcyap

Happy to report that the direct die project is a success. No modifications needed with the heatkiller cpu block. Fully compatible with rockitcool direct die kit and with the Z390 Aorus Master. Screw color coordination. I am very happy with how silent the system is.


----------



## GAN77

PTcyap said:


> I am very happy with how silent the system is.


Great build!

Anything about processor temperatures you got?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Just noticed you guys only make one 140mm x3 rad HTF4 and it's not really in the shop either 
https://watercool.de/en/node/397

So can I assume there is no 140x2 or 280 in this.

Also so you guys going to make a vrm water block for the Maximus XII APEX ??


----------



## farpetrad

I assume the inlet/outlet ports on the Heatkiller IV 2080 block can be changed? Can I put a fitting on the outlet and a temp sensor on the other side instead of the plug?


----------



## Section31

farpetrad said:


> I assume the inlet/outlet ports on the Heatkiller IV 2080 block can be changed? Can I put a fitting on the outlet and a temp sensor on the other side instead of the plug?


I have seen parallel builds using Heatkiller blocks and they used all four sides of the blocks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just noticed you guys only make one 140mm x3 rad HTF4 and it's not really in the shop either
> https://watercool.de/en/node/397
> 
> So can I assume there is no 140x2 or 280 in this.
> 
> Also so you guys going to make a vrm water block for the Maximus XII APEX ??


That is correct, we don't have any 140mm radiators currently (apart from the MO-RA3 420, of course, but I'm assuming you mean internal radiators). The HTF4 series is EOL since ~8 years. 




farpetrad said:


> I assume the inlet/outlet ports on the Heatkiller IV 2080 block can be changed? Can I put a fitting on the outlet and a temp sensor on the other side instead of the plug?


Yes, it can be changed. Yes, you could install a temp sensor on the other side of the terminal. You will have to make sure that the temp sensor will not protrude that far that it blocks of flow through the fitting.


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob*,

Good Day!

You got a new processor I9-10900 for tests with HEATKILLER IV PRO?


----------



## ThrashZone

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Just noticed you guys only make one 140mm x3 rad HTF4 and it's not really in the shop either
> https://watercool.de/en/node/397
> 
> So can I assume there is no 140x2 or 280 in this.
> 
> *Also so you guys going to make a vrm water block for the Maximus XII APEX ??*





Watercool-Jakob said:


> That is correct, we don't have any 140mm radiators currently (apart from the MO-RA3 420, of course, but I'm assuming you mean internal radiators). The HTF4 series is EOL since ~8 years.
> .


Hi,
Pity no Internal 140mm options besides exterior mora 420 when you have every 120mm length you can think of 

But what about the vrm block for apex ?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> You got a new processor I9-10900 for tests with HEATKILLER IV PRO?


Yes, we do. I'll let you know our conclusions when we are done testing AND are cleared by intel.


ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> But what about the vrm block for apex ?


Currently not planned, sorry.


----------



## rioja

Hi dear Watercooling.de
Sorry if it was asked before (I’m sure it was) but are you going to make motherboard sets (VRMs+chipset) or even monoblock for any modern/upcoming motherboards? I checked all major vendors but it looks it is not a trend any more like it was several years ago, any changes for future maybe ?
Thx


----------



## pmc25

@Watercool-Jakob Are the radiators likely to launch this year, or is their launch / development postponed indefinitely now?


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Currently not planned, sorry.


Hi,
Bummer but yeah ek has one built in for the asus maximus 12 formula can't be much different than that on the apex or extreme :/
https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-maximus-xii-formula/p/N82E16813119292


----------



## D-EJ915

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Bummer but yeah ek has one built in for the asus maximus 12 formula can't be much different than that on the apex or extreme :/
> https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-maximus-xii-formula/p/N82E16813119292


They don't need waterblocks so there's no reason for people to make ones, not like HEDT where they have lower phase count and is crammed in a tiny space so it helps a lot.


----------



## CantingSoup

I’m pretty sure of the answer to this, but I’m going to ask anyway. Can the Strix block be used with the 2080 super?


----------



## ThrashZone

D-EJ915 said:


> They don't need waterblocks so there's no reason for people to make ones, not like HEDT where they have lower phase count and is crammed in a tiny space so it helps a lot.


Hi,
More of a "I want" than a "It needs" a vrm water block 
But yeah likely pass on 10...k series and just wait for 4k amd release.


----------



## GAN77

HEATKILLER® IV PRO must be productive.

22,4 мм against 27 мм)


----------



## rioja

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> More of a "I want" than a "It needs" a vrm water block
> But yeah likely pass on 10...k series and just wait for 4k amd release.


Will it be with new chipset? If so, those motherboards must be hot in vrm and chipset and should last long so cooling solution for motherboard (up to full monoblock) would be appreciated


----------



## ThrashZone

rioja said:


> Will it be with new chipset? If so, those motherboards must be hot in vrm and chipset and should last long so cooling solution for motherboard (up to full monoblock) would be appreciated


Hi,
No way I'd waste time on another mono block they only look cool 
I'd much rather have a separate vrm and cpu cooler not to mention how much easier it is to change cpu blocks opposed to messing with a mono block from the back of the board and often have to pull the board unless you make adjustments on the back panel and still a large pain to deal with.

But yeah I did get the XII formula tonight next weekend will be fun


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

rioja said:


> Hi dear Watercooling.de
> Sorry if it was asked before (I’m sure it was) but are you going to make motherboard sets (VRMs+chipset) or even monoblock for any modern/upcoming motherboards? I checked all major vendors but it looks it is not a trend any more like it was several years ago, any changes for future maybe ?
> Thx


We do want to develop a universal block that can support many different VRM layouts. But that project has a low priority for us right now, so there is no ETA. In the meantime, maybe you can put our current system of universal vrm blocks to use?




pmc25 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Are the radiators likely to launch this year, or is their launch / development postponed indefinitely now?


Yes, the rads are planned to launch in Q3/2020! I'll provide more info when we come clooser to the launch.




CantingSoup said:


> I’m pretty sure of the answer to this, but I’m going to ask anyway. Can the Strix block be used with the 2080 super?


No, it cannot. Please always check http://gpu.watercool.de for all questions regarding GPU block compatibility.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, the rads are planned to launch in Q3/2020! I'll provide more info when we come clooser to the launch.


That would be great if so. I'd love to have a new rig all built up waiting for Ryzen 4xxx and RDNA2 in September. Also hoping you offer them in white - shroud that is, not fins.


----------



## Section31

Thanks for the update on the rads, good to see them finally happening. I assume they are still designed for low rpm usage correct?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> That would be great if so. I'd love to have a new rig all built up waiting for Ryzen 4xxx and RDNA2 in September. Also hoping you offer them in white - shroud that is, not fins.


 That timeline should work out.
Also yes: we will definitely have the radiators in white, as well!



Section31 said:


> Thanks for the update on the rads, good to see them finally happening. I assume they are still designed for low rpm usage correct?


That is correct. Our fan base gathers more on the "silence" side of the silence-vs-performance-slider. Plus, if you just need the most brutal cooling performance, ANY internal rad layout will always lose against a good MO-RA setup


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob,

maybe there are test results I9-10900 and HEATKILLERIV PRO?


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> That timeline should work out.
> Also yes: we will definitely have the radiators in white, as well!
> 
> 
> That is correct. Our fan base gathers more on the "silence" side of the silence-vs-performance-slider. Plus, if you just need the most brutal cooling performance, ANY internal rad layout will always lose against a good MO-RA setup


Does that mean you're likely to start offering Tubes and blocks in white, as well as the standard black?

I assume you'll be going for something along the lines of HWL BI GTS and GTX competitors, or if only one SKU then somewhere between the two? If you can match those performance wise, that'd be great. Also, from the information I'm aware of, GTR or similar rads sell very poorly these days ... so I doubt it's even worth doing something very dense and thick.


----------



## Section31

pmc25 said:


> Watercool-Jakob said:
> 
> 
> 
> That timeline should work out.
> Also yes: we will definitely have the radiators in white, as well!
> 
> 
> That is correct. Our fan base gathers more on the "silence" side of the silence-vs-performance-slider. Plus, if you just need the most brutal cooling performance, ANY internal rad layout will always lose against a good MO-RA setup /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean you're likely to start offering Tubes and blocks in white, as well as the standard black?
> 
> I assume you'll be going for something along the lines of HWL BI GTS and GTX competitors, or if only one SKU then somewhere between the two? If you can match those performance wise, that'd be great. Also, from the information I'm aware of, GTR or similar rads sell very poorly these days ... so I doubt it's even worth doing something very dense and thick.
Click to expand...

I hope so myself. Wanted your rads for longest time but was waiting for new model since you announced its development in 2017.

It will time well with 3080ti launch. I will just delay my proposed swap of 3950x into caselabs s8 till fallish.


----------



## ryouiki

For the Heatkiller IV Pro on AM4, orientation shouldn't make any difference correct? e.g. inlet toward the bottom of the board vs. the top.


----------



## Hequaqua

ryouiki said:


> For the Heatkiller IV Pro on AM4, orientation shouldn't make any difference correct? e.g. inlet toward the bottom of the board vs. the top.


I had it mounted in both orientations, little to no difference iirc. Inlet on the bottom might be a bit better on Zen3(I'm running a 3700X). I don't think either mounting will be earth shattering though.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> Does that mean you're likely to start offering Tubes and blocks in white, as well as the standard black?
> 
> I assume you'll be going for something along the lines of HWL BI GTS and GTX competitors, or if only one SKU then somewhere between the two? If you can match those performance wise, that'd be great. Also, from the information I'm aware of, GTR or similar rads sell very poorly these days ... so I doubt it's even worth doing something very dense and thick.


We will not offer white POM parts. POM has a VERY wide tolerance of what is considered "white", and quite frankly, this is not good enough for our quality standard. So we would either have very large amounts of unusable raw material, which would make the parts extremely expensive - or we'd have sub-par products. Neither is attractive to us.
White blocks or block covers are theoretically possible, but we don't really see a market for that. It's such a small niche that we currently do not plan for that.


The radiators will come in 30 and 45mm thickness. They are optimized for slow spinning fans, as I said. Thick and dense radiators are not efficient, in our opinion. If a customer aims for maximum cooling efficiencey, we'd always recommend an external MO-RA instead of any internal rad. 




ryouiki said:


> For the Heatkiller IV Pro on AM4, orientation shouldn't make any difference correct? e.g. inlet toward the bottom of the board vs. the top.


Inlet should NEVER be in the top or bottom, but always in the center! The jet is at the center of the block! Connecting outlet in the top of the block makes bleeding the air a lot easier, but putting outlet in the bottom shouldn't change the thermal performance.


----------



## newls1

GAN77 said:


> Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> maybe there are test results I9-10900 and HEATKILLERIV PRO?


WORKS AMAZING! My 10900k @ 5.2 all core with 1.279v under load max core temp is 74c. I might be able to dig up a pic proving that... im at work so give me a sec

dug this pic up from another thread here. I know its just a few seconds in on that stress test, but like i said, my hottest core will only get to 73/74c. This is using the heatkiller PRO IV all copper block with new fresh orings on the inside and slightly modded stiffer springs.


----------



## GAN77

newls1 said:


> WORKS AMAZING!


Why is the water block in this orientation? Horizontal mounting should be better for a long crystal I9-10900.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> pmc25 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does that mean you're likely to start offering Tubes and blocks in white, as well as the standard black?
> 
> I assume you'll be going for something along the lines of HWL BI GTS and GTX competitors, or if only one SKU then somewhere between the two? If you can match those performance wise, that'd be great. Also, from the information I'm aware of, GTR or similar rads sell very poorly these days ... so I doubt it's even worth doing something very dense and thick.
> 
> 
> 
> We will not offer white POM parts. POM has a VERY wide tolerance of what is considered "white", and quite frankly, this is not good enough for our quality standard. So we would either have very large amounts of unusable raw material, which would make the parts extremely expensive - or we'd have sub-par products. Neither is attractive to us.
> White blocks or block covers are theoretically possible, but we don't really see a market for that. It's such a small niche that we currently do not plan for that.
> 
> 
> The radiators will come in 30 and 45mm thickness. They are optimized for slow spinning fans, as I said. Thick and dense radiators are not efficient, in our opinion. If a customer aims for maximum cooling efficiencey, we'd always recommend an external MO-RA instead of any internal rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ryouiki said:
> 
> 
> 
> For the Heatkiller IV Pro on AM4, orientation shouldn't make any difference correct? e.g. inlet toward the bottom of the board vs. the top.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Inlet should NEVER be in the top or bottom, but always in the center! The jet is at the center of the block! Connecting outlet in the top of the block makes bleeding the air a lot easier, but putting outlet in the bottom shouldn't change the thermal performance.
Click to expand...

Keep us informed, the performance numbers intrigues me. Planning an rebuild of the 3950x system into the caselabs s8


----------



## ThrashZone

GAN77 said:


> Why is the water block in this orientation? Horizontal mounting should be better for a long crystal I9-10900.


Hi,
Think the capacitors are in the way from being mounted that way.


----------



## newls1

GAN77 said:


> Why is the water block in this orientation? Horizontal mounting should be better for a long crystal I9-10900.


waterblock is in the correct orintation... do your research and see where the die is, then look at the hotplate of the block.... i have it going the right way


----------



## GAN77

newls1 said:


> waterblock is in the correct orintation... do your research and see where the die is, then look at the hotplate of the block.... i have it going the right way


I think you are not correct. Crystal in the socket vertically. The rest will show a photo.


----------



## newls1

sorry, dont see how i mounted it wrong. Water is flowing over the entire core and leaving thru the side.... optimal in my thinking... no?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Optimus foundation and sigV2 blocks hit the die in the vertical middle and go across the die horizontal each way from center.
Better well we shall see 

But you are installed as heatkiller suggests 
My 7900x and 9940x preferred horizontal mount as you have it now exception would be optimus blocks work incredibly well as image is rotated optimus recommended install.


----------



## newls1

hey brother..... so i did mount it right? I have an optimus as well but for am4.. didnt want to re-buy another block when i had this PRO IV sitting in the closet. Looks like optimus does sell the retention bracket so i guess i could convert my am4 foundation block to an intel block, but right now i see absolutely no reason too.


----------



## ThrashZone

newls1 said:


> hey brother..... so i did mount it right? I have an optimus as well but for am4.. didnt want to re-buy another block when i had this PRO IV sitting in the closet


Hi,
You said it too the caps might be in the way going the other direction 
It probably would perform better as the optimus image shows mount though 
But yeah you'd have to see if the caps allow rotating if not you're good.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, the rads are planned to launch in Q3/2020! I'll provide more info when we come clooser to the launch.


I know you might not be able to talk about it but would it be a good idea for someone looking to buy a MO-RA420 to wait until the new ones come out to buy new rad in the same or perhaps BIGGER size, will you still have rads in chonkerXXL size ?


----------



## 39life

Hi everyone! Can someone give me a quick tip. Do I need to use any spacers(washers) when going to direct die with rockitcool oc frame? 9900k+heatkiller iv pro. Will appreciate any answers. Thank you in advance !


----------



## Section31

outofmyheadyo said:


> Watercool-Jakob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the rads are planned to launch in Q3/2020! I'll provide more info when we come clooser to the launch.
> 
> 
> 
> I know you might not be able to talk about it but would it be a good idea for someone looking to buy a MO-RA420 to wait until the new ones come out to buy new rad in the same or perhaps BIGGER size, will you still have rads in chonkerXXL size ?
Click to expand...

I got an mo-ra3 before this news though still going to consider there new rads if they perform as good as hwl gts/gtx rads.


----------



## broodro0ster

newls1 said:


> WORKS AMAZING! My 10900k @ 5.2 all core with 1.279v under load max core temp is 74c. I might be able to dig up a pic proving that... im at work so give me a sec
> 
> dug this pic up from another thread here. I know its just a few seconds in on that stress test, but like i said, my hottest core will only get to 73/74c. This is using the heatkiller PRO IV all copper block with new fresh orings on the inside and slightly modded stiffer springs.


Nice setup you've got there! The waterblock matches the mobo very well. it's like the waterblock is a part of the mobo.
Don't worry about the mounting orientation. Goofy vs regular is 1-2°C max.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

GAN77 said:


> Watercool-Jakob,
> 
> maybe there are test results I9-10900 and HEATKILLERIV PRO?


No, we didn't get around to really make a proper test run. I can confirm that both our block and the backplate are compatible, and it performs pretty good. But we haven't had time for a true calibrated test setup. 




newls1 said:


> WORKS AMAZING! My 10900k @ 5.2 all core with 1.279v under load max core temp is 74c. I might be able to dig up a pic proving that... im at work so give me a sec
> 
> dug this pic up from another thread here. I know its just a few seconds in on that stress test, but like i said, my hottest core will only get to 73/74c. This is using the heatkiller PRO IV all copper block with new fresh orings on the inside and slightly modded stiffer springs.


Thank you for your data!




outofmyheadyo said:


> I know you might not be able to talk about it but would it be a good idea for someone looking to buy a MO-RA420 to wait until the new ones come out to buy new rad in the same or perhaps BIGGER size, will you still have rads in chonkerXXL size ?


We currently have no plan for a new MO-RA! The new rads coming out will only be standard internal rads: 1x120 up to 4x120, in 30 and 45mm thickness, optimized for slow rpm fans. So yes, the MO-RA3 will stay active for the foreseeable future. IF it should ever get replaced, we will only replace it with units in the same size category.




39life said:


> Hi everyone! Can someone give me a quick tip. Do I need to use any spacers(washers) when going to direct die with rockitcool oc frame? 9900k+heatkiller iv pro. Will appreciate any answers. Thank you in advance !


Sorry, I can't comment on it and would recommend asking rockit about it. Maybe any of the fine gentlemen herehas some experience with it?




GAN77 said:


> I think you are not correct. Crystal in the socket vertically. The rest will show a photo.


I know that the orientation is your pet peeve. But over the last 5 generations of intel CPUs, the orientation has never been a relevant factor. In most test scenarios, the difference was less than the tolerance of the used thermal sensors. In our own tests with calibrated sensors, we never saw more than 0.9K difference by changing the orientation.
I understand how it FEELS relevant - but this is just one of the cases where actual scientific data does not fit into the perceived emotional expectations.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah you might want to ask how many is "Many 420 rads" actually means on @newls1 build lol


----------



## Alxz

Moved my build from my Lian Li PC-O6SX to the INWIN 909 I finally could get my hands on. Made some distribution plates and pump top for it! [Work still in progress]

Heatkiller as my main choice for blocks as usual


----------



## Circaflex

is the IV Pro still a good block for current chips? I ordered a 10900k and wonder if i can same some money and not purchase a new CPU block again


----------



## Circaflex

newls1 said:


> WORKS AMAZING! My 10900k @ 5.2 all core with 1.279v under load max core temp is 74c. I might be able to dig up a pic proving that... im at work so give me a sec
> 
> dug this pic up from another thread here. I know its just a few seconds in on that stress test, but like i said, my hottest core will only get to 73/74c. This is using the heatkiller PRO IV all copper block with new fresh orings on the inside and slightly modded stiffer springs.


did you use the heatkiller backplate with the CPU?


----------



## ThrashZone

Circaflex said:


> did you use the heatkiller backplate with the CPU?


Hi,
I don't believe heatkiller 4 pro comes with a back plate 
I have two neither one came with one.


----------



## Circaflex

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't believe heatkiller 4 pro comes with a back plate
> I have two neither one came with one.


Correct, but HK does sell one.


----------



## Mikecdm

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't believe heatkiller 4 pro comes with a back plate
> I have two neither one came with one.


You have to buy it separately


----------



## ThrashZone

Circaflex said:


> Correct, but HK does sell one.


Hi,
I imagine so
I use a different mount system I never like 2066/ 2011-v3 mount so I use an ek evo mount or bitspower summit or optimus foundation mounts any one of them will work just fine some came with back plates for 1151/.. socket compatibility.


----------



## newls1

Circaflex said:


> did you use the heatkiller backplate with the CPU?


no, i wanted too, but you cant purchase it ANYWHERE! I didnt want to order it directly from heatkiller as shipping was 30$...... for a 7$ part. No need for it really. I checked paste coverage before I did its final mount and it was perfect.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Circaflex said:


> is the IV Pro still a good block for current chips? I ordered a 10900k and wonder if i can same some money and not purchase a new CPU block again


Our 5 year old block is still within ~1°C with the latest releases of our competitors in most independent tests. So yes, we are confident to say that the Heatkiller IV is absolutely compatible and with adequate performance for 10900k CPUs.



ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I don't believe heatkiller 4 pro comes with a back plate
> I have two neither one came with one.





newls1 said:


> no, i wanted too, but you cant purchase it ANYWHERE! I didnt want to order it directly from heatkiller as shipping was 30$...... for a 7$ part. No need for it really. I checked paste coverage before I did its final mount and it was perfect.


There are several different mounting mechanisms: on AMD AM4, Intel 1366 and Intel 20XX, we use the integrated backplates that come with the motherboard. On Intel 115X and 1200, we supply mounting material with the block to install it safely and correctly. But we also offer a separate backplate. This backplate makes installation quicker and simpler. It also spreads the mechanical stress around the socket, so the pressure does not sit on the four mounting holes alone. It is an optional upgrade and not required for a safe and optimal-performing installation. You can learn more about the different mounting options in the manual: https://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_IV.pdf


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Sorry for the double post, but: we are currently planing a complete overhaul of our pump tops. We want to refresh, expand, and homogenize the lineup, make the parts compatible with each other, and give it a new, modern design. We already have many criteria fixed internally - but on some questions, we are completely open for input. So we want to ask you, our customers and users, for your opinions on these issues: what do you expect from a new pump top? This survey has 8 questions and takes less than 5 minutes to complete.
Please help us developing the perfet product for YOU!


>>>CLICK HERE FOR THE SURVEY<<<​


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Sorry for the double post, but: we are currently planing a complete overhaul of our pump tops. We want to refresh, expand, and homogenize the lineup, make the parts compatible with each other, and give it a new, modern design. We already have many criteria fixed internally - but on some questions, we are completely open for input. So we want to ask you, our customers and users, for your opinions on these issues: what do you expect from a new pump top? This survey has 8 questions and takes less than 5 minutes to complete.
> Please help us developing the perfet product for YOU!
> 
> 
> >>>CLICK HERE FOR THE SURVEY<<<​



Some of those questions require two of the options be selectable, i.e "dual D5 orientation". I see uses for both the 'facing' and 'side-by-side' options, depending on build.

EK screwed that up by EOling the side-by-side model when they introduced the Xtop. dual version.


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> The new rads coming out will only be standard internal rads: 1x120 up to 4x120, in 30 and 45mm thickness, optimized for slow rpm fans.


No 140 width rads?


----------



## Section31

Almost done (the caselabs s8 holding it up). Lucked out that black sparkle tubing was all that was left at ppcs.


----------



## ryouiki

Watercool-Jakob said:


> You can learn more about the different mounting options in the manual: https://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_IV.pdf


Jakob,

Was there a change to the mounting mechanism from the HK IV Pro on AM4? The manual linked above is not the same as the manual included with my block...

In the manual I have, section 10 (AM4 only) has "Knurled nut -> plastic washer -> spring -> thinn metal washer -> stud -> baseplate", however the one listed above is slightly different moving the washer underneath the stud.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

pmc25 said:


> No 140 width rads?


Not with initial release. Depending on how the 120 radiators perform, we will add a 140mm line later on. 




ryouiki said:


> Jakob,
> 
> Was there a change to the mounting mechanism from the HK IV Pro on AM4? The manual linked above is not the same as the manual included with my block...
> 
> In the manual I have, section 10 (AM4 only) has "Knurled nut -> plastic washer -> spring -> thinn metal washer -> stud -> baseplate", however the one listed above is slightly different moving the washer underneath the stud.


This sounds like a rather old manual and/or misprint. We recommend only the method in the online manual!


----------



## ryouiki

Watercool-Jakob said:


> This sounds like a rather old manual and/or misprint. We recommend only the method in the online manual!


Hmm I just opened the 2nd block and see that the mounting hardware is different between the two blocks. I'm not entirely sure what difference it will make, but the washers are not the same size between the two... actually what is listed as the "knurled nut" in the manual on the older block has a washer that looks like its permanently attached/glued in place and is slightly shorter then the new one.

See attached pictures (mounting hardware from new block, exterior packaging, mounting hardware from "older" block/picture of AM4 conversion kit from your website)

Is it possible to get matching hardware for these blocks? Sadly I just finished building with the first one so that means a loop teardown.


----------



## Section31

The mo-ra3 worked great. I effectively hit sub 60 and water loop temperature remained at room temperature of 22-23degrees.


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> The mo-ra3 worked great. I effectively hit sub 60 and water loop temperature remained at room temperature of 22-23degrees.


What do you mean by sub 60?


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> Section31 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The mo-ra3 worked great. I effectively hit sub 60 and water loop temperature remained at room temperature of 22-23degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by sub 60?
Click to expand...

I basically got reduction of temps by another 5-6degrees. Went from 65-66 to 59-60.


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> I basically got reduction of temps by another 5-6degrees. Went from 65-66 to 59-60.


I guess you mean on the CPU then? Do you also have a GPU in the loop? And at what temp is it running?


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> I guess you mean on the CPU then? Do you also have a GPU in the loop? And at what temp is it running?


Haven't tested with gaming yet. Will do so sometime this weekend.

Just did some gaming runs with D3 (bad game to test) but i got CPU temps of 42degrees and GPU temps of 33degrees. Water Loop temperature remained at 22degrees. I don't have to even run the pump at 100% for benchmarking either and hit 60degrees on cinebench.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ryouiki said:


> Hmm I just opened the 2nd block and see that the mounting hardware is different between the two blocks. I'm not entirely sure what difference it will make, but the washers are not the same size between the two... actually what is listed as the "knurled nut" in the manual on the older block has a washer that looks like its permanently attached/glued in place and is slightly shorter then the new one.
> 
> See attached pictures (mounting hardware from new block, exterior packaging, mounting hardware from "older" block/picture of AM4 conversion kit from your website)
> 
> Is it possible to get matching hardware for these blocks? Sadly I just finished building with the first one so that means a loop teardown.


Yup, that's pre-2017 mounting hardware. Man, you got a block with a long shelf life! Please send me a mail to [email protected], and we'll send you the updated mounting hardware.


----------



## kotory22

Anyone with Heatkiller and 5700XT here?
What kind of temps are u getting with it?


----------



## Madmaxneo

I currently have a 4930k on an Asus Rampage IV Black Ed MB being cooled by a Swiftech H240-X with a Heatkiller IV block. In the next few days I will be converting over to a Ryzen 3900x on an X570 board. I'd like to know what adapter I will need to cool my Ryzen with the Heatkiller IV block. I am pretty sure the Ryzen chips weren't out when I got my Heatkiller IV block a few years ago and if it was I highly doubt I could find it in with my CPU parts. 
I am in the US so I would need a place that I can order from and possible offer faster shipping.


----------



## Circaflex

Madmaxneo said:


> I currently have a 4930k on an Asus Rampage IV Black Ed MB being cooled by a Swiftech H240-X with a Heatkiller IV block. In the next few days I will be converting over to a Ryzen 3900x on an X570 board. I'd like to know what adapter I will need to cool my Ryzen with the Heatkiller IV block. I am pretty sure the Ryzen chips weren't out when I got my Heatkiller IV block a few years ago and if it was I highly doubt I could find it in with my CPU parts.
> I am in the US so I would need a place that I can order from and possible offer faster shipping.


All you need friend is the AM4 conversion.

https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14072


https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...eatkiller-iv-for-amd-processors-wc-14072.html


----------



## Madmaxneo

Circaflex said:


> All you need friend is the AM4 conversion.
> 
> https://shop.watercool.de/epages/WatercooleK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/14072
> 
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...eatkiller-iv-for-amd-processors-wc-14072.html


Thank You! I searched for something like this but used AMD Bracket as my search term which is apparently why I couldn't find it.

I ordered through PPCS and hopefully it will be here by the end of the week. One thing, the PPCS site is the slowest site I have visited in weeks. I was searching to see if there was anything else I wanted but gave up after taking about 30 seconds per page to load....lol.


----------



## Madmaxneo

@Watercool-Jakob (How do you even mention people on this site?)

I may have an issue that may or may not be serious.
I got a new case and discovered that I have to temporarily combine my GPU and CPU into the same loop (they were both in separate loops with Swiftech AIO's for much easier maintenance).

When I started breaking down and draining both loops I noticed some weird white residue on the fill cap for the GPU loop, so I looked it over. In the Heatkiller IV pro block there was some more of that white residue so I decided to run it with sysprep before combining the loops. After running sysprep for awhile I noticed the white residue is not in an area where the water normally runs. I am not sure but I think it may be some kind of glue. At this point I am not even sure it is safe to run this in a loop because if that white stuff in the image is the stuff in the loop then it could cause everything to go bad. 

Waterblock and white residue image:










Is this bad? How long is the warranty on these things?

Edit: Apparently the two image hosting sites don't work for me. What site works for posting images here now?

Here is a link to the image: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NEdq1dDsWSdrH8Qh9


----------



## Circaflex

What type of tubing were you using? What type of coolant was in that?


----------



## Carniflex

This white-gray stuff seems to be the usual thing that is leeched out of tubing over the time (as far as I understand that is one of the reasons why old/used tubes tend to get stiff over long use). It's kind of plastic-like residue and likes to collect in spots where there is a bit slower flow. I have seen it a bit more in loops where I have used antifreeze but it happens also in loops where using only pure distilled water (no biocide or anything) is used. 

In my experience, cooling capabilities are not dramatically affected. It looks ugly ofc - maybe if it manages to entirely fill up some block maybe it might be problematic then.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Madmaxneo said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* (How do you even mention people on this site?)
> 
> I may have an issue that may or may not be serious.
> I got a new case and discovered that I have to temporarily combine my GPU and CPU into the same loop (they were both in separate loops with Swiftech AIO's for much easier maintenance).
> 
> When I started breaking down and draining both loops I noticed some weird white residue on the fill cap for the GPU loop, so I looked it over. In the Heatkiller IV pro block there was some more of that white residue so I decided to run it with sysprep before combining the loops. After running sysprep for awhile I noticed the white residue is not in an area where the water normally runs. I am not sure but I think it may be some kind of glue. At this point I am not even sure it is safe to run this in a loop because if that white stuff in the image is the stuff in the loop then it could cause everything to go bad.
> 
> Waterblock and white residue image:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this bad? How long is the warranty on these things?
> 
> Edit: Apparently the two image hosting sites don't work for me. What site works for posting images here now?
> 
> Here is a link to the image: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NEdq1dDsWSdrH8Qh9





Carniflex said:


> This white-gray stuff seems to be the usual thing that is leeched out of tubing over the time (as far as I understand that is one of the reasons why old/used tubes tend to get stiff over long use). It's kind of plastic-like residue and likes to collect in spots where there is a bit slower flow. I have seen it a bit more in loops where I have used antifreeze but it happens also in loops where using only pure distilled water (no biocide or anything) is used.
> 
> In my experience, cooling capabilities are not dramatically affected. It looks ugly ofc - maybe if it manages to entirely fill up some block maybe it might be problematic then.


Of course I cannot make a 100% certain statement, but I agree, it looks like pasticizer washed out of the tubing. Particles, dirt, and corrossive substances usually collect in the areas where there are little to no flow. This is the case in the tiny slit between coldplate and plexi top. Fluid crawls into this tiny gap and can sit there. This is usually not a problem - but when there is contamination with whatever in the loop, this is the place where it becomes visible first.


To solve your problem: I'd suggest opening the block and clean it with soapy water. This should usually clean all of these remains away. After putting the block and the loop back together, we receommend flushing and draining it at least once.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Of course I cannot make a 100% certain statement, but I agree, it looks like pasticizer washed out of the tubing. Particles, dirt, and corrossive substances usually collect in the areas where there are little to no flow. This is the case in the tiny slit between coldplate and plexi top. Fluid crawls into this tiny gap and can sit there. This is usually not a problem - but when there is contamination with whatever in the loop, this is the place where it becomes visible first.
> 
> 
> To solve your problem: I'd suggest opening the block and clean it with soapy water. This should usually clean all of these remains away. After putting the block and the loop back together, we receommend flushing and draining it at least once.


If that is the case then this is a bit odd because I am using Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing which is supposed to be plasticizer free. I also had two loops in my system and the one with the white residue in the block and the tubing (after further investigation) is newer by more than a year than the CPU loop. Plus that particular loop is for my GPU so it stayed pretty cool (no higher than about 42 deg on stress testing or benchmarks). EDIT: The CPU loop is completely clear of any white residue.


I will try to do what you recommend after I get the new tubing. Which will not be easy because of how this loop is installed in this new system.
Now everything is in one loop and it was a pain to get it all in the system as one loop. I dread when the new tubing comes in to change it out. I will probably have to somehow support the case on it's side over something to catch the fluid once I start loosening and pulling off some of the tubing. Drain flush and refill is not really an option with this because of the way it is set up. Maybe I can pull everything off without it issue....lol.

I still need to install some UV lights into this system of which I'm not even sure how that's going to go cause I am still not used to working in a regular ATX case as opposed to an EATX case...lol.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> If that is the case then this is a bit odd because I am using Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing which is supposed to be plasticizer free.


I've seen a rash of posts stating this recently, where is it coming from? Nowhere does Primochill claim Advanced LRT is plasticizer free. They make statements about "preventing plasticizer from leeching", which is very, very different. So, while Advanced LRT is better than some of the other tubing out there in terms of plasticizer leeching (but far from perfect), it is not plasticizer free.


----------



## Madmaxneo

ciarlatano said:


> I've seen a rash of posts stating this recently, where is it coming from? Nowhere does Primochill claim Advanced LRT is plasticizer free. They make statements about "preventing plasticizer from leeching", which is very, very different. So, while Advanced LRT is better than some of the other tubing out there in terms of plasticizer leeching (but far from perfect), it is not plasticizer free.


Interesting. When doing a search for plasticizer free tubing Primoflex is one of the results. 

Thanks for pointing that out!


----------



## InfoSeeker

@Watercool-Jakob Just received my Mo-Ra3 420 with some optional bits, including the feet. Unfortunately, it looks like a bit used to drill the mounting holes may have been dull, or pushed too fast as the POM material appears to have melted during the process. The residue from the melting has the mounting screw not reaching through the foot, so I cannot get a bite into the radiator mounting hole. I was considering contacting the vendor, but they are out of this item at the moment. Is there a recourse for me?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

InfoSeeker said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Just received my Mo-Ra3 420 with some optional bits, including the feet. Unfortunately, it looks like a bit used to drill the mounting holes may have been dull, or pushed too fast as the POM material appears to have melted during the process. The residue from the melting has the mounting screw not reaching through the foot, so I cannot get a bite into the radiator mounting hole. I was considering contacting the vendor, but they are out of this item at the moment. Is there a recourse for me?


Please send a mail with a quick description, this picture, and your full shipping address including phone number to [email protected] and we'll send you a new foot.


----------



## CantingSoup

My unintentional two-tone 420. I’m still waiting on the fans and power connectors.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I need a little help in choosing a rad/pump/res combo. 

I've only used the configurable AIOs from Swiftech and had a separate loop for my GPU (H140) and my CPU (H240-X). I had my H140 on the back fan mount and the H240-X in the top. Unfortunately this new case (Lian Li Cool 2) only has mounting option for 120 mm fans in the back of the case, so I had to combine my GPU and CPU into one loop with the H240-X, of which it handles just fine. I need more cooling power (AMD build) and was looking at the H360-X3 for the front of the case but the rad mount in the front will not accept the H360-X3 with the res mounted on the rad, plus you can mount a 360 rad in the top of the case. 

So I am looking to get a 360 rad (maybe fans also) along with the res and pump. I'd prefer it to be as easy to maintain as possible (which is why I had only gone the Swiftech AIOs prior to this) with something like the pump mounted on top of the res or something similar. I have two of the really good Phanteks fans for the rad so I would need to get another one if I stay with them.


----------



## ciarlatano

Madmaxneo said:


> I need a little help in choosing a rad/pump/res combo.
> 
> I've only used the configurable AIOs from Swiftech and had a separate loop for my GPU (H140) and my CPU (H240-X). I had my H140 on the back fan mount and the H240-X in the top. Unfortunately this new case (Lian Li Cool 2) only has mounting option for 120 mm fans in the back of the case, so I had to combine my GPU and CPU into one loop with the H240-X, of which it handles just fine. I need more cooling power (AMD build) and was looking at the H360-X3 for the front of the case but the rad mount in the front will not accept the H360-X3 with the res mounted on the rad, plus you can mount a 360 rad in the top of the case.
> 
> So I am looking to get a 360 rad (maybe fans also) along with the res and pump. I'd prefer it to be as easy to maintain as possible (which is why I had only gone the Swiftech AIOs prior to this) with something like the pump mounted on top of the res or something similar. I have two of the really good Phanteks fans for the rad so I would need to get another one if I stay with them.


If you don't want to go crazy, why not just add a 240mm or 360mm rad to the existing loop you made with the H240-X? Normally, I would recommend an HWL GTS, but they are very restrictive for a rad and might be a little taxing on the H240-X pump. But an Alphacool ST30 or XSPC EX or TX would do a nice job for you.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

CantingSoup said:


> My unintentional two-tone 420. I’m still waiting on the fans and power connectors.


Haha, I remember that order  This is really unique. I think it looks pretty cool!


----------



## outofmyheadyo

This is a brand new heatkiller iv pro full copper after 1 mount on a 2700x, there is a clear indent in the shape of the ihs, is this normal ? Never had something like this with some of the other blocks I`ve had.


----------



## iamjanco

^looks used. Where'd you get it from?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

iamjanco said:


> ^looks used. Where'd you get it from?


As i said it was new few days ago in a sealed plastic bag, mounted once on a 2700x and that is the result.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

outofmyheadyo said:


> This is a brand new heatkiller iv pro full copper after 1 mount on a 2700x, there is a clear indent in the shape of the ihs, is this normal ? Never had something like this with some of the other blocks I`ve had.


 Is it actually a physical indent, or just discoloration? The base of the coldplate is not sealed, so the heat transfer is not obstructed. So depending on atmosphere, air humidity, thermal interface material, and how clean your handling was during installation, the parts exposed to air (or your fingers) and the parts that were sealed by the thermal interface material can tarnish in different speeds and to different extent. That is absolutely normal for pure copper and no reason to worry. Also, the tarnish is only an optical effect, it does not influence cooling performance at all.


The tarnishing can only be prevented by applying clear coat onto the copper. That way, it will forever look nice - but the coat obviously introduced a non-heat transferring layer between the copper of the block and the thermal paste. Since we will always value performance over looks, we do not apply clear coat on the cold plate. We do, however, apply clear coat on the out side of the copper tops - it doesn't interfere with thermal performance there.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

No i dont mean the discoloration i mean the physical indent in the shape of the ihs. I dont think a block should need lapping after every mount, very strange problem.


----------



## ThrashZone

outofmyheadyo said:


> No i dont mean the discoloration i mean the physical indent in the shape of the ihs.


Hi,
Most cpu's have cove/ bowl shape some more than others.
Most cpu water blocks had humps in them to try and fit the bowl of the cpu's shape
Newer design cpu blocks have more than older design water blocks do so they tend to perform better.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I understand but the block is not made of bread, it should not deform or have these marks on it after just 1 mount ?


----------



## ThrashZone

outofmyheadyo said:


> I understand but the block is not made of bread, it should not deform or have these marks on it after just 1 mount ?


Hi,
Movement and pressure scratches copper because copper is a soft metal it's just that simple 
If you don't like that get nickle plated but be aware even that can be scratched.
Copper you can polished nickle you can't well you can but nickle plating is very thin so it goes bye bye very easily and you'll be back with copper


----------



## outofmyheadyo

It`s not my first waterblock, Ive had nickel and copper blocks before without issue, but there is like a groove in the shape of the ihs corner on the waterblock. It`s not a scratch of scuff, it`s clearly from the pressure of the mount.


----------



## ThrashZone

outofmyheadyo said:


> It`s not my first waterblock, Ive had nickel and copper blocks before without issue, but there is like a groove in the shape of the ihs corner on the waterblock. It`s not a scratch of scuff, it`s clearly from the pressure of the mount.


Hi,
Can't tell all I see is the scratches 
Put a straight edge and a light behind it to show anything weird forms.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

These show it better.


----------



## ThrashZone

outofmyheadyo said:


> This is a brand new heatkiller iv pro full copper after 1 mount on a 2700x, there is a clear indent in the shape of the ihs, is this normal ? Never had something like this with some of the other blocks I`ve had.


Hi,
Problem is your not showing an "indent" 
That would need a straight edge to be noticed which you have yet to do 
So get a ruler and set it on top of the copper cold plate corner to corner and lets see what it looks like.

If there is a "indent" you'll see light in the middle of the ruler
If not the ruler will not sit flat corner to coner the ends will be higher.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Check the first picture of my last post...


----------



## ThrashZone

outofmyheadyo said:


> Check the first picture of my last post...


Hi,
You don't seem to understand 
You can not show anything without a straight line on the warped object.
Otherwise you're just wasting image space.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Find another word to describe it then and listen to what im trying to explion, a waterblock should not have a Ihs shaped mark on it after one mount.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Simply put, over tightening will cause that combined with water block shifting as it's being tightened 
Pretty tough to tighten all four studs at once with the same tension so the block goes straight down without shifting.
You simply show three corners were over tightened and one was looser since no marks on one of four corners.

AMD socket maybe off make sure all four mounting bolts are the same torque onto the board or the board is flexing without a back plate too possibly did you use a back plate.


----------



## garyd9

outofmyheadyo said:


> Find another word to describe it then and listen to what im trying to explion, a waterblock should not have a Ihs shaped mark on it after one mount.


I think there might be some confusion. Is the problem that the cold plate is physically indented from the IHS (meaning that the plate is actually thinner over the entire area where the IHS made contact) or is the problem that there's a raised outline around the area where the IHS sat?

If the latter, it's probably just dirt that can be polished off (or corrosion of some kind - which might reflect an issue.)

If the former, placing a ruler edge on the cold plate and holding it up to the light would demonstrate the indent and more importantly would allow Watercool to better evaluate what is going on. The only other way to get Watercool to even be able to guess would be to ship the block to them in Germany (and be prepared to pay return shipping.)


----------



## chas1723

outofmyheadyo said:


> These show it better.


Why is your block so scratched? Did you try to lap it? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## outofmyheadyo

chas1723 said:


> Why is your block so scratched? Did you try to lap it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


No I havent done anything to it, mounted on the 2700x cleaned off the thermal paste, and thats it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

This does seem very weird indeed. Our blocks do normally not become bent or indented or imprinted or take away any physical damage by simply mounting them to a CPU. So there seems to be something else at play here. Can you please send me an email to [email protected] with pictures from how your block was mounted, when and where you bought the block, your shipping address including phone number, and any assorted information on what could have happened? We will then help you!


----------



## CantingSoup

Posting to say that the MO-RA3 is outstanding.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Seems normal to me with old design water blocks
All newer cpu's are coming out with shoulders or concave like a bowl dude just won't put a straight edge on either the chip or the water block and see the difference :doh:

Heatkiller 4 pro doesn't have near the bow in the cold plate to match these chips concave so all pressure is sitting on top of the chips outside corners thus leaving marks

If the water block has a lot of bow it's first contact is on the center of the cpu and more tightening spreads the bow to fit the cpu concave better.

I can't get a good picture showing how little the HK 4 pro bow is because it has so very little bow and all my new design Optimus water blocks are installed 
But here's the bow on a new ek magnitude clearly showing quite a bit of bow on the cold plate.


----------



## 414347

So! going back 3-4 months ago, maybe even longer when Watercool.de forum was taking of and my theory behind that was due to customers complaining (rightfully so) about their orders been delayed for weeks, even months, the answer from rep was we updating other things and so is the website...that is taking awfully long...maybe I was correct about my suspicion


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

NewUser16 said:


> So! going back 3-4 months ago, maybe even longer when Watercool.de forum was taking of and my theory behind that was due to customers complaining (rightfully so) about their orders been delayed for weeks, even months, the answer from rep was we updating other things and so is the website...that is taking awfully long...maybe I was correct about my suspicion


 Nope, you were not 

It's just that we try to get a lot of things done at the same time currently, so the website relaunch is delayed, as well. But we improved the general delay timings for end customer orders: usually, orders are processed and shipped within 2-5 days again (unless an item on an order is currently not in stock, obviously...).


If people have the need to complain about our shipping time, they have plenty of ways to reach me: I'm here, on facebook, Twitter, instagram, reddit, and several german forums. So if somebody feels the need to start a public outcry, they still have plenty opportunity to do so - usually, simply writing a polite email helps more, though. Jussayin'.


----------



## tiefox

I've been ordering quite some stuff from watercool lately and have had amazing shipping time responses. I'm Denmark btw, so close by.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Soon I will be taking apart my loop, doing a deep clean, adding another Rad, upgrading the pump, and changing out the tubing. 

In doing this I need to take apart my heatkiller Pro IV waterblocks to thoroughly clean them. Because of this I anticipate having to replace the thermal pads on my graphics card, but I forget what thickness of thermal pads I need. 


Does anyone know _what thickness pads_ I will need for my *EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING*?


----------



## ryouiki

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yup, that's pre-2017 mounting hardware. Man, you got a block with a long shelf life! Please send me a mail to [email protected], and we'll send you the updated mounting hardware.


Thank you for the response, sorry I didn't realize this had been posted sooner.

I found somewhere semi-local that had a set of mounting hardware, looks like the original block had the 18022 mounting plate, just different standoffs/washers/etc. I had to drain the loop for another reason so I went ahead and re-mounted with the new hardware and all is well. I appreciate your help!


----------



## andydabeast

hi guys its hard to search this thread. Anyone do any mods with the removable chrome/black metal front plate on the Heatkiller IV GPU block? looks like just a couple hex screws to remove it.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Madmaxneo said:


> Soon I will be taking apart my loop, doing a deep clean, adding another Rad, upgrading the pump, and changing out the tubing.
> 
> In doing this I need to take apart my heatkiller Pro IV waterblocks to thoroughly clean them. Because of this I anticipate having to replace the thermal pads on my graphics card, but I forget what thickness of thermal pads I need.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know _what thickness pads_ I will need for my *EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC GAMING*?


We usually use 0.5mm pads on the VRMA and 1mm pads on all other components. On that block, there also is a small 1.5mm pad. You can find the manual here: https://watercool.de/sites/default/files/downloads/MA_HK_IV_VGA_1080_and_1070_A5m.pdf
You can find replacement thermal pad kits for it here: https://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wa...wObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/79367




andydabeast said:


> hi guys its hard to search this thread. Anyone do any mods with the removable chrome/black metal front plate on the Heatkiller IV GPU block? looks like just a couple hex screws to remove it.


Yes, this is a quite common mod to our GPU blocks. Examples:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CB3EIlNA5HZ/
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCfpf9TAepm/


----------



## andydabeast

Yes said:


> https://www.instagram.com/p/CB3EIlNA5HZ/[/url]
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CCfpf9TAepm/


Any painting advice? It is aluminum right?


----------



## ppkstat

I am currently considering a Mo ra for my next setup. Silence is of the upmost importance for me and I am planning to run it with 4 200mm Noctua Fans. 

I'd like to also go with the heatkiller D5 res attached to the mo-ra. Considering the fact that the D5 will probably need to be at high rpms to achieve >0.5 gpm I am worried about pump noise. I am aware that there's a built in decoupling mechanism and the mo-ra will be quite heavy by itself (which will help with vibration dampening) but can anyone with the same setup comment on how audible the sound was? I currently have my d5 mounted internally on a shoggy sandwich and therefore I am quite sensitive with noise.


----------



## ThrashZone

ppkstat said:


> I am currently considering a Mo ra for my next setup. Silence is of the upmost importance for me and I am planning to run it with 4 200mm Noctua Fans.
> 
> I'd like to also go with the heatkiller D5 res attached to the mo-ra. Considering the fact that the D5 will probably need to be at high rpms to achieve >0.5 gpm I am worried about pump noise. I am aware that there's a built in decoupling mechanism and the mo-ra will be quite heavy by itself (which will help with vibration dampening) but can anyone with the same setup comment on how audible the sound was? I currently have my d5 mounted internally on a shoggy sandwich and therefore I am quite sensitive with noise.


Hi,
D5 pumps are not noisy unless they have a lot of restriction like a clogged water block to force through 
Mora's are not restrictive period.


----------



## ppkstat

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> D5 pumps are not noisy unless they have a lot of restriction like a clogged water block to force through
> Mora's are not restrictive period.


D5s can get very noisy if not decoupled properly. They are also audible to me at high speeds even in a very non-restrictive loop. I had 2 D5's in my lifespan and both lasted for more than 6 years. They also tend to resonate at specific rpms due to differences in impeller balance and this range is different in each pump.


----------



## ThrashZone

ppkstat said:


> D5s can get very noisy if not decoupled properly. They are also audible to me at high speeds even in a very non-restrictive loop. I had 2 D5's in my lifespan and both lasted for more than 6 years. They also tend to resonate at specific rpms due to differences in impeller balance and this range is different in each pump.


Hi,
I run 2-D5's in parallel in both rigs and I can't hear any of them so yeah it's sort of automatic to use rubber washers/... so there isn't any vibration 
If the case is bad then replace the case.
Only time I did was when cpu block was clogged with ek crapfuel.


----------



## ciarlatano

ppkstat said:


> D5s can get very noisy if not decoupled properly. They are also audible to me at high speeds even in a very non-restrictive loop. I had 2 D5's in my lifespan and both lasted for more than 6 years. They also tend to resonate at specific rpms due to differences in impeller balance and this range is different in each pump.





ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> I run 2-D5's in parallel in both rigs and I can't hear any of them so yeah it's sort of automatic to use rubber washers/... so there isn't any vibration
> If the case is bad then replace the case.
> Only time I did was when cpu block was clogged with ek crapfuel.


I have always been able to hear D5s, even at moderate speeds. What I hear has nothing to do with decoupling, the resonant frequencies and/or vibrations are a completely different matter that can be overcome. I agree with @ThrashZone , the more restriction you put in the loop, the more audible they are. That said, they are still the quietest pump out there.


----------



## NewType88

ppkstat said:


> I am currently considering a Mo ra for my next setup. Silence is of the upmost importance for me and I am planning to run it with 4 200mm Noctua Fans.
> 
> I'd like to also go with the heatkiller D5 res attached to the mo-ra. Considering the fact that the D5 will probably need to be at high rpms to achieve >0.5 gpm I am worried about pump noise. I am aware that there's a built in decoupling mechanism and the mo-ra will be quite heavy by itself (which will help with vibration dampening) but can anyone with the same setup comment on how audible the sound was? I currently have my d5 mounted internally on a shoggy sandwich and therefore I am quite sensitive with noise.


I have that exact setup. Mora3 420 with 4 a20's with a pwm d5 pump and heatkiller res decoupled to that rad. All zmt tubing, all standard compression fittings with no extra bends in the loop.

I went through 3 D5 pumps because they all emitted a high pitched frequency around 14khz from the capacitor. So if you cant hear up that high you should be good, because the pump noise it self is not loud.

I dont have any sensors so I cant give you any more data. I do not even use a fan curve. All of my system fans and rad fans stay pretty much around 500ish RPM. When I game I just open up speed fan and turn the pump to 100%. The pitch is there at lower speeds, so I just run it full blast.

I do wonder if in the future they/we can use a different capacitor that resonates at a higher frequency above human hearing, but I dont know enough about it to know whether or not that is possible.


----------



## ppkstat

NewType88 said:


> I have that exact setup. Mora3 420 with 4 a20's with a pwm d5 pump and heatkiller res decoupled to that rad. All zmt tubing, all standard compression fittings with no extra bends in the loop.
> 
> I went through 3 D5 pumps because they all emitted a high pitched frequency around 14khz from the capacitor. So if you cant hear up that high you should be good, because the pump noise it self is not loud.
> 
> I dont have any sensors so I cant give you any more data. I do not even use a fan curve. All of my system fans and rad fans stay pretty much around 500ish RPM. When I game I just open up speed fan and turn the pump to 100%. The pitch is there at lower speeds, so I just run it full blast.
> 
> I do wonder if in the future they/we can use a different capacitor that resonates at a higher frequency above human hearing, but I dont know enough about it to know whether or not that is possible.


This is actually very helpful, thank you.


----------



## kacsa

Whats the difference between the am4 heatkiller IV Acryl clean and hwluxx edition?


----------



## opt33

If D5 pump will be outside of the case, you can wrap base/bottom in soundproofing material "box", wont overheat D5 since cooled by water, if your not worried about looks, though doesnt look horrible. (wouldnt wrap ddc pump in one but D5 is fine). 

My D5 (quietest of 4) is inside F31 sound suppressor case, adjusted to avoid worst whines around setting 4, decoupled with industrial velcro shoggy sandwich with thermaltake sound reduction aluminum covering (aluminum doesnt touch water), and still was too loud above 900 rpm 140mm noctua fans. But after wrapping base and bottom in soundproofing "box" then could no longer hear it above fans. 

looks like pic:https://www.overclock.net/forum/28538884-post110315.html
@kacsa, the hwluxx is for intel cpus, am4 hk is for amd cpus.


----------



## kacsa

@opt33 Its cleary marked as AM4 socket compatible, even the picture shows am4 mounting.
https://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wa...?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18019


----------



## opt33

kacsa said:


> @opt33 Its cleary marked as AM4 socket compatible, even the picture shows am4 mounting.
> https://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wa...?ObjectPath=/Shops/WatercooleK/Products/18019


your right...the one I clicked on was the intel version, looks like they have intel/amd versions of both.


----------



## NewType88

opt33 said:


> If D5 pump will be outside of the case, you can wrap base/bottom in soundproofing material "box", wont overheat D5 since cooled by water, if your not worried about looks, though doesnt look horrible. (wouldnt wrap ddc pump in one but D5 is fine).
> 
> My D5 (quietest of 4) is inside F31 sound suppressor case, adjusted to avoid worst whines around setting 4, decoupled with industrial velcro shoggy sandwich with thermaltake sound reduction aluminum covering (aluminum doesnt touch water), and still was too loud above 900 rpm 140mm noctua fans. But after wrapping base and bottom in soundproofing "box" then could no longer hear it above fans.
> 
> looks like pic:https://www.overclock.net/forum/28538884-post110315.html
> 
> @kacsa, the hwluxx is for intel cpus, am4 hk is for amd cpus.


Very clean build. Can you link me the product that you used on your pump ?


----------



## opt33

Thanks. The sound dampening material is the single extra sheet 17x18 inch of 7mm thick 3 layer acoustipak, $20, link below. dont buy whole pack that costs $47 with 7mm sheet along with 2 of unneeded 4mm sheets. I wrapped pump 360 deg around base and then sheet underneath so fully enclosed (except reservoir outlet through top of course) and small hole for wires to pass through at bottom. 

https://www.coolerguys.com/products/acoustipack-extra-sheet-pc-soundproofing-material-item-apexts

For pump, I have the thermaltake aluminum covered pump/res combo at link below, which is comparable noise suppression wise to my EK pump/res combo with its rubberized/acetal covered base. alumun or rubber/acetyl suppresses some noise, the sound dampening box and being inside case did rest.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...vtargid=pla-491632289413&psc=1&language=en_US


----------



## D-EJ915

kacsa said:


> Whats the difference between the am4 heatkiller IV Acryl clean and hwluxx edition?


hwluxx has a flat top and the clean just doesn't have the plate bit on top but still has the bevels cut into it.


----------



## Section31

Curious hows the progress on the new rads. Interested in knowing the performance of the new internal rads.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

andydabeast said:


> Any painting advice? It is aluminum right?


There are two versions: plain stainless steel and bloack anodized aluminum. No, I can't comment on painting, as we don't have any experience in this sector. Me personally, I would use vinyl wrap. 




ppkstat said:


> I am currently considering a Mo ra for my next setup. Silence is of the upmost importance for me and I am planning to run it with 4 200mm Noctua Fans.
> 
> I'd like to also go with the heatkiller D5 res attached to the mo-ra. Considering the fact that the D5 will probably need to be at high rpms to achieve >0.5 gpm I am worried about pump noise. I am aware that there's a built in decoupling mechanism and the mo-ra will be quite heavy by itself (which will help with vibration dampening) but can anyone with the same setup comment on how audible the sound was? I currently have my d5 mounted internally on a shoggy sandwich and therefore I am quite sensitive with noise.


The decouplöing of the tube works very well. A full Tube 200 also provides quite some mass - in this combination, you have no vibration noise from the MO-RA at all. You will, of course, hear the pump itself. In my opinion, this is a very subtle noise, and doesn't annoy me at all, but this is highly subjective. 




kacsa said:


> Whats the difference between the am4 heatkiller IV Acryl clean and hwluxx edition?


The Acryl Clean version has the characteristic step in the middle of the top. But this step is only executed in acrylic, and doesn't come with the stainless steel inlay. The HW-Luxx Version has a completeley planar top, without the step. 




Section31 said:


> Curious hows the progress on the new rads. Interested in knowing the performance of the new internal rads.


We still aim for a release in Q3/2020. Can't comment on performance data yet.


----------



## storm-chaser

This is my HEATKILLER IV PRO all copper, for a six core 9600KF... Project is still in the works...


----------



## NewType88

@Watercool-Jakob Are you guys planning to have your dual pump top to be compatible with the mo-ra3 decoupling system ?


----------



## Asunder

Is there any chance of Watercool doing a special HK for Ryzen, seeing that the next gen will most likely be chiplets as well? Kind of like how AQ did it with the mounting displacement, that would be nice to have too.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> There are two versions: plain stainless steel and bloack anodized aluminum. No, I can't comment on painting, as we don't have any experience in this sector. Me personally, I would use vinyl wrap.
> 
> 
> 
> The decouplöing of the tube works very well. A full Tube 200 also provides quite some mass - in this combination, you have no vibration noise from the MO-RA at all. You will, of course, hear the pump itself. In my opinion, this is a very subtle noise, and doesn't annoy me at all, but this is highly subjective.
> 
> 
> 
> The Acryl Clean version has the characteristic step in the middle of the top. But this step is only executed in acrylic, and doesn't come with the stainless steel inlay. The HW-Luxx Version has a completeley planar top, without the step.
> 
> 
> 
> We still aim for a release in Q3/2020. Can't comment on performance data yet.


Thanks for the update. Looking like I will be ordering two of them at the current rate. Just got to wait for performance between the 30mm and 45mm.


----------



## Section31

Also, this Mo-Ra3 has proven to be one of my best water cooling investment right off the bat. Right now the computer room, air con is broken ands its 30ish degree. Typically, the water loop would be 40degrees now but with this Mo-Ra3, its staying at room temperature. Love this investment.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Asunder said:


> Is there any chance of Watercool doing a special HK for Ryzen, seeing that the next gen will most likely be chiplets as well? Kind of like how AQ did it with the mounting displacement, that would be nice to have too.


Yes, we are working on a special Ryzen Edition. No ETA yet.




NewType88 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* Are you guys planning to have your dual pump top to be compatible with the mo-ra3 decoupling system ?


Yes, when the DUal pump tops are released, we will offer a MO-RA mounting bracket for them, as well.




Section31 said:


> Also, this Mo-Ra3 has proven to be one of my best water cooling investment right off the bat. Right now the computer room, air con is broken ands its 30ish degree. Typically, the water loop would be 40degrees now but with this Mo-Ra3, its staying at room temperature. Love this investment.


 Love to hear that, thanks for the feedback!




Announcement:
Starting today, we now carry Mayhems cooling fluids! We start with clear, red, green and UV blue X1 fluids and the Blitz Kit. Depending on how they perform, we will expand the line-up down the road. Please feel free to let me know if you have wishes or suggestions for other Mayhems fluids, as well (not guaranteed to be fulfilled, though ). It is now possible to get ALL components for a liquid cooling loop in the WATERCOOL shop!


---> MAYHEMS in the WATERCOOL Shop <---
​


----------



## garyd9

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Y
> Starting today, we now carry Mayhems cooling fluids! We start with clear, red, green and UV blue X1 fluids and the Blitz Kit.


From your picture, it appears that you only have the "X1 Clear" and didn't get stock of the "X1 Pastel UV Clear." You should see about getting the latter. Under ultraviolet light, it becomes even clearer and more pastel.


(I really hope no one takes this message seriously.)


----------



## Shawnb99

@Watercool-Jakob How long after launch do you guys expect to release blocks for the 3080TI's?


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> @Watercool-Jakob How long after launch do you guys expect to release blocks for the 3080TI's?


Good question. Last time i remember it was two months after release with preorders available right around launch date.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Shawnb99 said:


> @*Watercool-Jakob* How long after launch do you guys expect to release blocks for the 3080TI's?





Section31 said:


> Good question. Last time i remember it was two months after release with preorders available right around launch date.


It highly depends on what support we will receive from Nvidia. Unfortunately, that varies highly from launch to launch. For the RTX Generation, we had blocks available 1 month after launch. This would be the worst case scenario. We'll try our best to have blocks earlier than that, but can currently not give any date.


----------



## Shawnb99

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It highly depends on what support we will receive from Nvidia. Unfortunately, that varies highly from launch to launch. For the RTX Generation, we had blocks available 1 month after launch. This would be the worst case scenario. We'll try our best to have blocks earlier than that, but can currently not give any date.



Ok thanks. Here’s hoping you have them soon after launch


----------



## Darket1234

Shawnb99 said:


> Ok thanks. Here’s hoping you have them soon after launch


I just hope that RTX 2000 blocks is compatible with 3000


----------



## pmc25

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It highly depends on what support we will receive from Nvidia. Unfortunately, that varies highly from launch to launch. For the RTX Generation, we had blocks available 1 month after launch. This would be the worst case scenario. We'll try our best to have blocks earlier than that, but can currently not give any date.


Do you have a relationship with AMD?

It looks like Navi 2X is going to be a massive launch for them. Biggest since 4xxx (2008) or 5xxx (2010). By extension, probably the biggest AMD waterblock demand ever, by a long way.


----------



## chas1723

Darket1234 said:


> I just hope that RTX 2000 blocks is compatible with 3000


Highly unlikely. GPU blocks tend not to work the way CPU blocks do. They are very individual on the components they work with. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## InfoSeeker

I wanted to control the RGB LEDs for my HEATKILLER® Tube 100, but do not want to use unsightly adaptors. So I wanted to try using a RGBpx ready LED strip... and it worked great.

I cut the strip to 8 LEDs to fit the reservoir post slot, and folded the 'IN' connector back on itself and added the cable.

I run a clear fluid, so the light gets refracted, but not reflected. To improve the lighting effect, I glued a PrimoChill Clear PMMA Tower Plug to the under side of the reservoir lid.

The video link under the spoiler shows the end result, but it is a large file (173,821 KB)



Spoiler



http://h8bs.com/RGBpx_ops.MP4


----------



## Madmaxneo

InfoSeeker said:


> I wanted to control the RGB LEDs for my HEATKILLER® Tube 100, but do not want to use unsightly adaptors. So I wanted to try using a RGBpx ready LED strip... and it worked great.
> 
> I cut the strip to 8 LEDs to fit the reservoir post slot, and folded the 'IN' connector back on itself and added the cable.
> 
> I run a clear fluid, so the light gets refracted, but not reflected. To improve the lighting effect, I glued a PrimoChill Clear PMMA Tower Plug to the under side of the reservoir lid.
> 
> The video link under the spoiler shows the end result, but it is a large file (173,821 KB)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> http://h8bs.com/RGBpx_ops.MP4


Nice, well done!


----------



## Madmaxneo

What is the best way to clean plasticizer off of the Heatkiller IV pro blocks?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Darket1234 said:


> I just hope that RTX 2000 blocks is compatible with 3000


It is almost perfectly certain that this will not be the case. Blocks are tailored to match a certain PCB layout by 0,1mm (that is 0,004inch). If components on the PCB are moved around by more than that, the block usually becomes incompatible. The rumored new power delivery section will definitely render any previous block useless for that generation. 




pmc25 said:


> Do you have a relationship with AMD?
> 
> It looks like Navi 2X is going to be a massive launch for them. Biggest since 4xxx (2008) or 5xxx (2010). By extension, probably the biggest AMD waterblock demand ever, by a long way.


Yes, we have a pretty good relationship with AMD and are looking forward to more information about the rumored release. We will most likely support that card with a block as well, but generally, the same restrictions as with nvidia apply: release date of a block depends on when and what we will get from the manufacturers. 




InfoSeeker said:


> I wanted to control the RGB LEDs for my HEATKILLER® Tube 100, but do not want to use unsightly adaptors. So I wanted to try using a RGBpx ready LED strip... and it worked great.
> 
> I cut the strip to 8 LEDs to fit the reservoir post slot, and folded the 'IN' connector back on itself and added the cable.
> 
> I run a clear fluid, so the light gets refracted, but not reflected. To improve the lighting effect, I glued a PrimoChill Clear PMMA Tower Plug to the under side of the reservoir lid.
> 
> The video link under the spoiler shows the end result, but it is a large file (173,821 KB)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> http://h8bs.com/RGBpx_ops.MP4


Interesting project, thanks for sharing!




Madmaxneo said:


> What is the best way to clean plasticizer off of the Heatkiller IV pro blocks?


Open the block, wash all components in a tub of soapy water. That usually already gets most plasticizer off. If there is gunk sitting between the cooling fins, try washing the cold plate under the running tap. If that doesn't clean, it, use a toothbrush. That usually does the trick.


----------



## Wadkiller

I bought a second hand block, there are small spider cracks next to inlet and outlet. They are no more than 0.5mm deep ranging from 2 - 3mm long.

Should I be concerned? Can I fix it, or do I just replace the top?


----------



## keeph8n

Jakob,


Congratulations on a beautiful piece of art with the release of the new Industrial pump top.


Getting ready to place my order and I'm curious if you know if that will allow a D5 Next to fit or if only conventional pumps will


----------



## keeph8n

Went ahead and purchased. If the D5 Next fits, great and I'll report back. If not I'll toss a couple of Koolance 450s in and be done.


----------



## Circaflex

Wadkiller said:


> I bought a second hand block, there are small spider cracks next to inlet and outlet. They are no more than 0.5mm deep ranging from 2 - 3mm long.
> 
> Should I be concerned? Can I fix it, or do I just replace the top?


Id personally replace the top, I am sure you could use it for some time but I wouldnt feel comfortable knowing there are cracks starting to form.


----------



## Barefooter

Wadkiller said:


> I bought a second hand block, there are small spider cracks next to inlet and outlet. They are no more than 0.5mm deep ranging from 2 - 3mm long.
> 
> Should I be concerned? Can I fix it, or do I just replace the top?


Yeah looks like the fittings were over tightened to me. I would not trust or use that top.

I think you can buy just a replacement top.


----------



## Section31

The dual pump top looks amazing. Exciting times ahead with GPU blocks to come out and those new radiators too.


----------



## Section31

keeph8n said:


> Went ahead and purchased. If the D5 Next fits, great and I'll report back. If not I'll toss a couple of Koolance 450s in and be done.


I think they will fit. Just have to rotate the oled control unit in different direction so they dont bump into eachother


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Wadkiller said:


> I bought a second hand block, there are small spider cracks next to inlet and outlet. They are no more than 0.5mm deep ranging from 2 - 3mm long.
> 
> Should I be concerned? Can I fix it, or do I just replace the top?


We would recommend to replace it. You cannot fix this, and the cracks will grow over time. It could become an issue in the future.
We only use PLEXIGLAS GS directly from Evonik for all of our acrylic parts. SInce this is cast acrylic and not extruded, it doesn't come with internal microtensions, so it usually doesn't crack. But if people use alcohol on it (for example cleaning agents containing alcohol), it will still crack: alcohol dries the acrylic out and makes it brittle. Most likely, that's what happened to this top. 


If something like this happens, please simply send a mail to [email protected] and we'll offer you a top separately. @Waldkiller, please check your emails, and we'll sort this out together 



keeph8n said:


> Jakob,
> 
> 
> Congratulations on a beautiful piece of art with the release of the new Industrial pump top.
> 
> 
> Getting ready to place my order and I'm curious if you know if that will allow a D5 Next to fit or if only conventional pumps will


Yes, two D5 NEXT will fit next to each other.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

WATERCOOL's unique selling point has always been our own production capabilities: we truly are manufacturing industry and produce all of our products on our own machines in our own workshop. The heart of our production lines are clearly the CNC-milling centers. They are involved in the making of virtually all of our products! SO we are very happy that we could enhance our machining park this week: thanks to the ever rising demand for our popular HEATKILLER® products, we could get another two 4-axis CNC milling machines this week!


The machines will be set up, connected, and calibrated in the next weeks. This will enable us to raise our productivity and improve the availability of our products globally!


In the same step, we will also restructure and enhance our storage capacities. We will have additional packing stations to process orders more efficiently. A new customized fully digital management system will support our staff in every step.


----------



## keeph8n

Looks fantastic Jakob! Congratulations on the expansion!


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Yeah might free up a machine to make new heatkiller 4 pro intel mounts so the block can be rotated 90 degrees on any mother board


----------



## Darket1234

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> 
> Yeah might free up a machine to make new heatkiller 4 pro intel mounts so the block can be rotated 90 degrees on any mother board


more like AMD AM4 that could be rotated like intel ones

Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

Cool Expansion. Down to the radiators and GPU/GPU block and i put my build back together. Really not much I can do except start working on setting up the portion of the loop in the bottom chamber.


----------



## mr. biggums

So been banging my head trying to find the answer does anyone have the dimensions on this part watercool has the part listed as #30263 its the 120mm varient I essentially need to know how much height it adds to the ddc resevoir combo.


----------



## shiokarai

EK is promising blocks for new RTX 30XX series at launch, question: what about Heatkiller? 

link:

https://videocardz.com/newz/ek-promises-geforce-rtx-30-water-blocks-ready-at-or-close-to-launch

Hope you'll have the blocks ready!


----------



## broodro0ster

shiokarai said:


> EK is promising blocks for new RTX 30XX series at launch, question: what about Heatkiller?
> 
> link:
> 
> https://videocardz.com/newz/ek-promises-geforce-rtx-30-water-blocks-ready-at-or-close-to-launch
> 
> Hope you'll have the blocks ready!


EK is the biggest player in business and they have good contacts.
I'm afraid that the smaller companies get the info later so they will probably be a bit later with their blocks. But it will be worth the wait!


----------



## InfoSeeker

shiokarai said:


> EK is promising blocks for new RTX 30XX series at launch, question: what about Heatkiller?
> 
> link:
> 
> https://videocardz.com/newz/ek-promises-geforce-rtx-30-water-blocks-ready-at-or-close-to-launch
> 
> Hope you'll have the blocks ready!



If we are going to be honest, much of EK's blocks are like Volvos of the 1990s, square and boxy looking... hence easier to design and build.

*slips on asbestos suit*


----------



## shiokarai

InfoSeeker said:


> If we are going to be honest, much of EK's blocks are like Volvos of the 1990s, square and boxy looking... hence easier to design and build.
> 
> *slips on asbestos suit*


Well, yes, but still they seem to be ready to launch their blocks alongside the new cards. I hope Heatkiller blocks will be ready soon too! 20xx gen I went with aquacomputer blocks which were almost impossible to get and I've waited for them something like 3-4 months, not to mention design with paste on the mem chips = mess.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

shiokarai said:


> EK is promising blocks for new RTX 30XX series at launch, question: what about Heatkiller?
> 
> Hope you'll have the blocks ready!



We are working hard to have our blocks ready as soon as possible. We depend, of course, on support by the manufacturers: when we will receive data and samples from them will directly influence when our blocks will be available. This will mean somewhere between "ready at launch date" and "4-6weeks after launch". I'll let you know when we have a reliable availability date.




///Personal note: I'll undergo some minor surgery tomorrow and will be on sick leave for 1-2 weeks. This thread will not be monitored or questions answered until at least 9/7. If you have any problems, please send an email to [email protected] . That mailbox will be monitored and replied to. I know that you'll all be exploding with curiosity after 9/1, probably - please feel free to copy and spread my above statement


----------



## Section31

shiokarai said:


> EK is promising blocks for new RTX 30XX series at launch, question: what about Heatkiller? 🙂
> 
> link:
> 
> https://videocardz.com/newz/ek-promises-geforce-rtx-30-water-blocks-ready-at-or-close-to-launch
> 
> Hope you'll have the blocks ready!


I will gladly wait that time for the blocks myself. I rather not use ekwb. I rather go barrows then swap over to optimus (that’s probably 6months at least). So 4-6weeks from heatkiller is fine with me.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> shiokarai said:
> 
> 
> 
> EK is promising blocks for new RTX 30XX series at launch, question: what about Heatkiller? 🙂
> 
> Hope you'll have the blocks ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are working hard to have our blocks ready as soon as possible. We depend, of course, on support by the manufacturers: when we will receive data and samples from them will directly influence when our blocks will be available. This will mean somewhere between "ready at launch date" and "4-6weeks after launch". I'll let you know when we have a reliable availability date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ///Personal note: I'll undergo some minor surgery tomorrow and will be on sick leave for 1-2 weeks. This thread will not be monitored or questions answered until at least 9/7. If you have any problems, please send an email to [email protected] . That mailbox will be monitored and replied to. I know that you'll all be exploding with curiosity after 9/1, probably - please feel free to copy and spread my above statement /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks. My build is held up by the new radiators coming out and GPU coming out. I hope you guys come out at similar time. Finished my build lower chamber so just your new rads and gpu holding up the rest.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are working hard to have our blocks ready as soon as possible. We depend, of course, on support by the manufacturers: when we will receive data and samples from them will directly influence when our blocks will be available. This will mean somewhere between "ready at launch date" and "4-6weeks after launch". I'll let you know when we have a reliable availability date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ///Personal note: I'll undergo some minor surgery tomorrow and will be on sick leave for 1-2 weeks. This thread will not be monitored or questions answered until at least 9/7. If you have any problems, please send an email to [email protected] . That mailbox will be monitored and replied to. I know that you'll all be exploding with curiosity after 9/1, probably - please feel free to copy and spread my above statement


Awesome and good luck with your surgery. Please take it easy for the next couple of weeks!


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are working hard to have our blocks ready as soon as possible. We depend, of course, on support by the manufacturers: when we will receive data and samples from them will directly influence when our blocks will be available. This will mean somewhere between "ready at launch date" and "4-6weeks after launch". I'll let you know when we have a reliable availability date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ///Personal note: I'll undergo some minor surgery tomorrow and will be on sick leave for 1-2 weeks. This thread will not be monitored or questions answered until at least 9/7. If you have any problems, please send an email to [email protected] . That mailbox will be monitored and replied to. I know that you'll all be exploding with curiosity after 9/1, probably - please feel free to copy and spread my above statement


Hope for successful surgery and wish you quick recovery. Stay safe.


----------



## Zyther

Any idea how to mount the Tube directly to a case and not a rad/fan?

I saw this im guessing he has a nut/washer behind it?
https://pictures-cdn02.prod.builds.gg/user_images/1000/1193/1193_1920.jpg


----------



## Zyther

Also anyone know what screws they use? im guessing ether 6-32 or m3


----------



## InfoSeeker

Zyther said:


> Any idea how to mount the Tube directly to a case and not a rad/fan?
> 
> I saw this im guessing he has a nut/washer behind it?
> https://pictures-cdn02.prod.builds.gg/user_images/1000/1193/1193_1920.jpg



You can mount the Tube bottom directly to a case wall using the M4 threaded screws holes.


----------



## isabirov

Zyther said:


> Any idea how to mount the Tube directly to a case and not a rad/fan?
> 
> I saw this im guessing he has a nut/washer behind it?
> https://pictures-cdn02.prod.builds.gg/user_images/1000/1193/1193_1920.jpg


I bought basic mounting kit for Heatkiller Tube, unscrewed decoupling modules (screws with rubber) and mounted Tube directly to case using this decoupling modules. Works well, no vibration is being transferred to case.


----------



## chas1723

Cant wait to see what heatkiller comes out with for the 3070 and 3080. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

chas1723 said:


> Cant wait to see what heatkiller comes out with for the 3070 and 3080.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


And the 3090


----------



## sakete

Yes, @ watercool, please share more details on 3080 waterblocks once you have them. It's unclear at this point which boards from which manufacturers will be reference designs and which will be custom. Typically with EVGA, their XC line is based on the reference PCB, but there's some uncertainty in the EVGA forum that this is the case this time.


----------



## chas1723

Bastiaan_NL said:


> And the 3090


Not interested in that beast. Just way too expensive 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## InfoSeeker

chas1723 said:


> Not interested in that beast. Just way too expensive
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


But you can't SLI the 70 or 80, only the 90 ($3,000) :thumbsups


----------



## chas1723

SLI is dead in gaming anyway 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Darket1234

chas1723 said:


> Not interested in that beast. Just way too expensive
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


true. the 3070 or even the 3080 is more than enough for gaming. For those who want it to video edit will habe to wait for benchmarks from puget systems

Enviado desde mi G8141 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## paskowitz

Just a suggestion, there should be a ranked choice poll, for which AIB block Watercool should do, as soon as possible since availability for the 3090 is likely going to be very limited. IMO, the two main contenders are the Asus Strix (been a Watercool staple for a while and good WW availability) and EVGA FTW3 (EVGA's hydrocopper blocks look especially terrible this time and their warranty is the friendliest). 



Something like this...


----------



## chibi

paskowitz said:


> Just a suggestion, there should be a ranked choice poll, for which AIB block Watercool should do, as soon as possible since availability for the 3090 is likely going to be very limited. IMO, the two main contenders are the Asus Strix (been a Watercool staple for a while and good WW availability) and EVGA FTW3 (EVGA's hydrocopper blocks look especially terrible this time and their warranty is the friendliest).
> 
> Something like this...



I second this idea and would also vote EVGA FTW 3 as my first choice of 3090 water block preference.


----------



## sakete

chibi said:


> I second this idea and would also vote EVGA FTW 3 as my first choice of 3090 water block preference.


I third this idea, but then for the 3080 FTW3


----------



## paskowitz

FTW3 has a few advantages over the Strix. 1 row of rear I/O so a single slot bracket is possible, 2x8pin power and not a ridiculous 3x8pin, EVGA ICX temp sensors (nbd but nice to see how the block is performing), EVGA warranty. With that said, the Strix is more widely available globally, will sell more and thus offer a bigger market for a block. Maybe 2 can be done this time since VRM layouts seem to be pretty similar due to the PCB density and layout.


----------



## Thebc2

Strix 2080ti had a far superior power delivery/pcb for the 2080ti, but agree with the rest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Hequaqua

For anyone that might be interested. Parting with my Heatkiller Pro for AM4.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/147...y-acryl-18014-50-00-shipped.html#post28596416


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> I second this idea and would also vote EVGA FTW 3 as my first choice of 3090 water block preference.


Same for me. I was just coming here to ask if Heatkiller was making a block for this.


----------



## sakete

I emailed them and they said so far they're focusing on the Strix.

Honestly, I'll go for whatever card I can get my hands on. I'd prefer EVGA, but if they sell out within a minute I'll just have to pick up something else, maybe a Strix in this case.


----------



## Shawnb99

I refuse to buy GPU’s from Asus. After having two of my 2080ti die on me i do not want to deal with Asus crappy CS. 

Guess I won’t be buying Heatkiller if they don’t come out with a FTW3 block


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> I refuse to buy GPU’s from Asus. After having two of my 2080ti die on me i do not want to deal with Asus crappy CS.
> 
> Guess I won’t be buying Heatkiller if they don’t come out with a FTW3 block


Yeah, it's hard to not go for EVGA. Maybe I'll go for the XC3, which should be based on reference PCB (not confirmed yet though). Should be easier to find blocks for a reference design.

I just remember my experience with ordering a 980ti 5 years ago. It took me over a month to finally get my hands on one, as it would sell out within a minute whenever there was new stock. I absolutely hate scalpers.


----------



## LiquidHaus

I would say to remain a bit more open minded in this situation.

Think about it from a logistics and revenue mindset.

Most blocks will be for reference PCB cards (FE's are NOT reference).

These will sell the most.

Custom PCBs won't sell as many, in which case they'll go for the PCB that sold the most the last generation. Which in this case was the Strix.

There's nothing wrong with the Strix cards. I have dealt with many of them in the past, and not a single one has ever given me any issues whatsoever. Neither have EVGA cards, but again we're talking about potential revenue for Watercool. They'll go with what will sell/has sold the most. I'd consider ourselves lucky if they decide to go with an AIB block on top of reference blocks. No other company is revealing info about custom PCB blocks, just reference.


----------



## Fluxmaven

It's interesting that the founders edition is not a reference PCB this time around. I'll wait patiently until reference cards and blocks are in stock before pulling the trigger on anything. I noticed Watercool recently got two additional CNC machines. Hopefully once they get their blocks developed they can crank out enough to stay on top of the demand.


----------



## chibi

LiquidHaus said:


> I would say to remain a bit more open minded in this situation.
> 
> Think about it from a logistics and revenue mindset.
> 
> Most blocks will be for reference PCB cards (FE's are NOT reference).
> 
> These will sell the most.
> 
> Custom PCBs won't sell as many, in which case they'll go for the PCB that sold the most the last generation. Which in this case was the Strix.
> 
> There's nothing wrong with the Strix cards. I have dealt with many of them in the past, and not a single one has ever given me any issues whatsoever. Neither have EVGA cards, but again we're talking about potential revenue for Watercool. They'll go with what will sell/has sold the most. I'd consider ourselves lucky if they decide to go with an AIB block on top of reference blocks. No other company is revealing info about custom PCB blocks, just reference.



From a performance perspective (2000 series comparison), the better candidate to utilize water cooling would be the FTW as the Power Limit is higher at 373 W, compared to the Strix 325 W (Strix can vary as well depending on the strix model you choose.). Stock 2000 series PL is 320 W and that gets throttled hard even at stock card settings. The extra 5 W PL from the Strix is negligible. 

As well, the better warranty and customer service from EVGA trumps ASUS any day.


----------



## TheArkratos

Shawnb99 said:


> I refuse to buy GPU’s from Asus. After having two of my 2080ti die on me i do not want to deal with Asus crappy CS.
> 
> Guess I won’t be buying Heatkiller if they don’t come out with a FTW3 block



EVGA's warranty support is legendary. I've experienced it first hand along with several friends. Including several who had a last card gen act up (one the fan was just clicking) that were given a new gen card for free.


Asus on the other hand has legendarily bad customer support. Especially when it comes to waterblocks. I either go founders edition or EVGA if I block a card. Or pick up a card from microcenter and use their warranty, I had to do that last gen as I NEEDED a single slot card, only single slot (IO) 20 series was the Asus turbo from what I could find, sad I had to go with EK to get a single slot block. This gen I'm trying to wait to see what heatkiller does.


----------



## Madmaxneo

TheArkratos said:


> EVGA's warranty support is legendary. I've experienced it first hand along with several friends. Including several who had a last card gen act up (one the fan was just clicking) that were given a new gen card for free.
> 
> 
> Asus on the other hand has legendarily bad customer support. Especially when it comes to waterblocks. I either go founders edition or EVGA if I block a card. Or pick up a card from microcenter and use their warranty, I had to do that last gen as I NEEDED a single slot card, only single slot (IO) 20 series was the Asus turbo from what I could find, sad I had to go with EK to get a single slot block. This gen I'm trying to wait to see what heatkiller does.


I'll second or third that EVGA's warranty support is legendary, also a personal experience... that is how I got my current 1070.

I would disagree with Asus being legendarily bad, also because of personal experience. The worst experience I've encountered so far is with Gigabyte customer support. It seems that a ton of people agree with this where many have sent in RMA's only to have the item they sent in disappear completely with Gigabyte claiming to have either sent it back or to have never received it... Many also reporting getting stuff back that was worse when they got it, etc, etc...


----------



## paskowitz

Ok. Some updates. It appears that the Nvidia "Founders Edition" PCB is different from the "reference" PCB that AIB's will use (and should be the same across AIBs I have personally confirmed this from Jacob on EVGA's end). More likely than not... this means there would need to be a specific Founders Edition block and then a reference block (and then a big boi AIB block if possible). That's quite a mess of a situation. Honestly, if I was Watercool... I would not even bother with a "Founders" block if it can't be merged with the "reference" design. All of the different brand's reference sales will be higher than the Founders Edition. EDIT: Lol I should have scrolled up. I was LTTP with this... :upsidedwn


----------



## TheArkratos

The one thing I like about the FE card is the PCB will be tiny and that is REALLY appealing to me. I'm still over here hoping Heatkiller will somehow make their blocks thin enough to be single slot too.


----------



## Section31

TheArkratos said:


> The one thing I like about the FE card is the PCB will be tiny and that is REALLY appealing to me. I'm still over here hoping Heatkiller will somehow make their blocks thin enough to be single slot too.


Another mess. At least we know early so we can avoid founders cards. I really don't know what card to get. AIB is going to be hell to get here in Canada. I more or less am looking to get from US online shops (that ship here).


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Another mess. At least we know early so we can avoid founders cards. I really don't know what card to get. AIB is going to be hell to get here in Canada. I more or less am looking to get from US online shops (that ship here).


Yeah I've given up all hope of buying it locally. I'll be ordering direct from EVGA or wherever


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> I refuse to buy GPU’s from Asus. After having two of my 2080ti die on me i do not want to deal with Asus crappy CS.
> 
> Guess I won’t be buying Heatkiller if they don’t come out with a FTW3 block


Hi,
Best thing about evga they do the hydro copper so no waiting for a block at release.
FTW3 though I believe all they have is a hybrid this time which sux.
Only hydro copper I saw in 3090 is a FE


----------



## originxt

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Best thing about evga they do the hydro copper so no waiting for a block at release.
> FTW3 though I believe all they have is a hybrid this time which sux.
> Only hydro copper I saw in 3090 is a FE


It was my understanding the evga blocks werent that great? Unsure how dated the info is. Actually, how much of a difference are we even expecting from different blocks in terms of temperature? Like 5>? Or is the biggest draw just aesthetics at this point?


----------



## NewType88

I would rather go with EVGA, but I dont think they will make a block for it. So I think I will get a strix this time.

Are the strix and ftw3 releasing in sept too ? Anyone see prices for USA ?


----------



## Section31

Once Jakob come back from his surgery (successful recovery), we will get more direct answers.


----------



## sakete

Any updates on 3080 blocks?


----------



## paskowitz

I was going to post this yesterday... I hope Watercool strongly considers this type of layout. IDK if it makes the most sense engineering/performance wise, but given the form factor of the PCB it makes a lot of practical and aesthetic sense. Specifically, I could see it working well with the Heatkiller design language (seems EK figured out covering the acrylic looks better).























This just looks infinitely better than a stubby, near square card like what we see from the latest Bitspower block for the Strix. Not to mention, by moving the terminal to the side, you reduce the spatial conflicts tall AIB cards run into (SFF cases or even some larger cases like the O11D in horizontal orientation).










Bottom line... I hope Watercool takes some risks.


----------



## Neville0

Do we have a timeline of when the rtx 3000 and the ryzen cpu blocks will be available for pre-order?


----------



## Section31

Neville0 said:


> Do we have a timeline of when the rtx 3000 and the ryzen cpu blocks will be available for pre-order?


I think they said two months for gpu block. Its fits with the rumored difficultly to get the cards.

I don’t think they are updating the ryzen cpu blocks. There isn’t much change in design. Last they mentioned it was 1-2degree difference they noticed with larger cold plate.


----------



## Section31

Neville0 said:


> Do we have a timeline of when the rtx 3000 and the ryzen cpu blocks will be available for pre-order?


I don’t see major redesign of blocks till ryzen 6000 (am5) and intel alderlake/meteorlake (lga1700).


----------



## Krisztias

originxt said:


> It was my understanding the evga blocks werent that great? Unsure how dated the info is. Actually, how much of a difference are we even expecting from different blocks in terms of temperature? Like 5>? Or is the biggest draw just aesthetics at this point?


I have bought the 2080 Super FTW3 Hydro Copper version and after the first maintenance wasn't able to remount the block correctly again (2 times) 
After that I bought the EK block+backplate and everything went fine for the first run and gained -10°C (stock 53-55, EK 43-45)
So yeah... something is f****d.


----------



## Circaflex

I need some help from the Heatkiller guru's. My gtx 2080 ti was hitting high 60s at stock under water, which made no sense. Figured the block wasnt mounted correctly and sure enough it wasn't. The weird thing is, I have a reference card and its almost like there is a piece protruding, keeping the block from being flush. I tried to attach pictures, but why is this happening? It was flexing my board and thats how I noticed it. You can see in the 2nd pic that washer has no chance of ever being flat.


----------



## Circaflex

well it seems I was actually given a 2080 block and not the 2080 ti that I paid for. shoot I didnt recognize this sooner, as the 30 days are well beyond. Going 3xxx is too costly right now for me so i ordered another heatkiller 2080ti in hopes this is correct. I did email titanrigs, original purchase place, in hopes that they will take it back and give me a half credit or something to their store.


----------



## Section31

Any updates on the radiator


----------



## nam2912

I just bought a used 2080 heatkiller IV block for my evga 2080 super xc ultra gaming, and i have some questions:

i bought it from ebay, the old owner says he's been using it for a few months, but i look at it is stained inside, is it due to the coolant? and how can i clean it
is there any in and out way of 2080 heatkiller IV block?
Thanks.


----------



## ThrashZone

nam2912 said:


> I just bought a used 2080 heatkiller IV block for my evga 2080 super xc ultra gaming, and i have some questions:
> 
> i bought it from ebay, the old owner says he's been using it for a few months, but i look at it is stained inside, is it due to the coolant? and how can i clean it
> is there any in and out way of 2080 heatkiller IV block?
> Thanks.
> 
> View attachment 2458961


Hi,
Disassemble and clean.
Tooth brush and tooth paste usually does well.


----------



## InfoSeeker

nam2912 said:


> I just bought a used 2080 heatkiller IV block for my evga 2080 super xc ultra gaming, and i have some questions:
> 
> i bought it from ebay, the old owner says he's been using it for a few months, but i look at it is stained inside, is it due to the coolant? and how can i clean it
> is there any in and out way of 2080 heatkiller IV block?
> Thanks.
> 
> View attachment 2458961


I believe the block works best with the flow going THROUGH the jet plate INTO the micro channels over the GPU, so coolant IN should be the open port in your picture (either side), and coolant OUT should be the plugged port in your picture (either side).


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Disassemble and clean.
> Tooth brush and tooth paste usually does well.


This works pretty good. I cleaned my Heatkiller IV strix block 2 weeks ago using this method (with the same looking buildup)  



InfoSeeker said:


> I believe the block works best with the flow going THROUGH the jet plate INTO the micro channels over the GPU, so coolant IN should be the open port in your picture (either side), and coolant OUT should be the plugged port in your picture (either side).


Same way I run mine. If the card is installed in a "normal" case with the backplate up it'll feed the card from the bottom left and exit through the top right hole.
The same holes as the previous user has been using.


----------



## nowarranty

Section31 said:


> I don’t see major redesign of blocks till ryzen 6000 (am5) and intel alderlake/meteorlake (lga1700).


Do you think I'd see negligible performance switching from an ek supremacy to a heatkiller iv pro?
I was debating getting a new block earlier, just not sure if any other block would make much of a difference. Been thinking about switching my block for a vertical flow, wondering if that would maybe improve one of the ryzen 3000 chiplets temps. The heatkiller iv pro is the only one I've considered outside optimus blocks. I don't think I'll ever purchase an EK product again though.


----------



## Section31

nowarranty said:


> Do you think I'd see negligible performance switching from an ek supremacy to a heatkiller iv pro?
> I was debating getting a new block earlier, just not sure if any other block would make much of a difference. Been thinking about switching my block for a vertical flow, wondering if that would maybe improve one of the ryzen 3000 chiplets temps. The heatkiller iv pro is the only one I've considered outside optimus blocks. I don't think I'll ever purchase an EK product again though.


my guess 1-3degrees max


----------



## nam2912

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Disassemble and clean.
> Tooth brush and tooth paste usually does well.


i tried using a car polish








it's out of dirty, but some of the places i rubbed more were brighter than others


----------



## Section31

nowarranty said:


> Do you think I'd see negligible performance switching from an ek supremacy to a heatkiller iv pro?
> I was debating getting a new block earlier, just not sure if any other block would make much of a difference. Been thinking about switching my block for a vertical flow, wondering if that would maybe improve one of the ryzen 3000 chiplets temps. The heatkiller iv pro is the only one I've considered outside optimus blocks. I don't think I'll ever purchase an EK product again though.


To clarify the heatkiller block is an 2015 Block. It and most blocks (ekwb) were about same (margin of error). The aquacomputer/koolance were 1-2degree cooler. The only new blocks to beat these blocks are optimus and ekwb magnitude lineup. Even then its that 1-2degree more. Basically lot of the cpu blocks have not been updated in last five years with exception of rgb add ons.


----------



## nowarranty

Section31 said:


> To clarify the heatkiller block is an 2015 Block. It and most blocks (ekwb) were about same (margin of error). The aquacomputer/koolance were 1-2degree cooler. The only new blocks to beat these blocks are optimus and ekwb magnitude lineup. Even then its that 1-2degree more. Basically lot of the cpu blocks have not been updated in last five years with exception of rgb add ons.


thanks, that makes a lot more sense. i've been thinking about rotating the supremacy because after looking at the chiplet design I've been assuming one chiplet is running 3-5C+ hotter than the other one. overclocks are limited on that chiplet too, but I just was not sure the fin density on the evo was decent enough. I thought the heatkiller iv pro was newer. I don't think I could stomach spending $100 on a new cpu block right now though


----------



## Section31

nowarranty said:


> Do you think I'd see negligible performance switching from an ek supremacy to a heatkiller iv pro?
> I was debating getting a new block earlier, just not sure if any other block would make much of a difference. Been thinking about switching my block for a vertical flow, wondering if that would maybe improve one of the ryzen 3000 chiplets temps. The heatkiller iv pro is the only one I've considered outside optimus blocks. I don't think I'll ever purchase an EK product again though.





nowarranty said:


> thanks, that makes a lot more sense. i've been thinking about rotating the supremacy because after looking at the chiplet design I've been assuming one chiplet is running 3-5C+ hotter than the other one. overclocks are limited on that chiplet too, but I just was not sure the fin density on the evo was decent enough. I thought the heatkiller iv pro was newer. I don't think I could stomach spending $100 on a new cpu block right now though


If you are considering am5/lga1700, i would wait for new blocks to come out for them before buying imo. If your sticking with am4 then any of the blocks are good imo


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> To clarify the heatkiller block is an 2015 Block. It and most blocks (ekwb) were about same (margin of error). The aquacomputer/koolance were 1-2degree cooler. The only new blocks to beat these blocks are optimus and ekwb magnitude lineup. Even then its that 1-2degree more. Basically lot of the cpu blocks have not been updated in last five years with exception of rgb add ons.


The Heatkiller block was about 2-3°C cooler than the EK block on a 2080TI.


----------



## robbee

Hello everyone,
I just scored a second hand RX5700 and I would like to watercool it with a Heatkiller block. The only problem I have is that my case only allows single slot cards. EKWB is very clear about their block being single slot, but I cannot find any information nor pictures about the Heatkiller block being strictly single slot. I do see they the block is 2mm thicker than the EKWB one but I don't know if that means that it actually protrudes the IO bracket. Does anyone have information that could help me?
Thanks!

EDIT: nevermind! I just found the info I needed at an earlier page:



Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, it's more like 1.3 slots. the split flow design adds a little bit of height to the block... We do sell a single slot bracket for RX Navi separately!


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> The Heatkiller block was about 2-3°C cooler than the EK block on a 2080TI.


We were discussing the cpu blocks. The GPU blocks are bigger difference.


----------



## Daepilin

Do we have any update from watercool on what blocks are supposed to come for 3080/90?
I managed to grab a strix from amazon.fr when they accidentally listed in on the weekend(not canceled by them yet) and am a bit on the edge if I should keep the order or switch to trying to get a FE tomorrow... I tried contacting watercool on their contact page but they are likely way to busy to answer (though I also don't know if the contact from worked as there was no confirmation 'your ticket has been created' sent to may email. But I don't want to resent), but has anyone seen/heard anything?


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> We were discussing the cpu blocks. The GPU blocks are bigger difference.


Sorry, I thought I read GPU instead of CPU blocks. Yea, indeed your totally right about it.


----------



## Daepilin

got a reply from watercool:

"
Hallo Herr XYZ,
es wird voraussichtlich Kühler für die Referenzlayouts von 3080 und 3090
geben sowie für die Founders Edition. Die Kühler werden voraussichtlich
in 4-6 Wochen veröffentlicht. Wir werden nähere Infos über mögliche
Vorbestellung über unsere Homepage sowie social media Kanäle ankündigen.
"

"Hello Mr XYZ,
there will likely be coolers for the reference layout of 3080 and 3090 as well as for the founders edition. The coolers will most likely be available withing 4-6 weeks. We will announce details on possible pre orders on our website as well as social media"

Makes me think again if I want to stay with the strix, which might only get okayish coolers (EK) for quite high prices... on the other hand most reference cards (at least if the lists from alphacool and ek are to be believed) don't keep warranty after cooler removal..

what would you guys think will deliver better performance: strix + ek block or zotac trinity (entry level) + heatkiller? Surely the heatkiller will be the better block, but I doubt that will be enough to beat the potentially better binned chip + higher powerlimit :/


----------



## broodro0ster

Daepilin said:


> got a reply from watercool:
> 
> "
> Hallo Herr XYZ,
> es wird voraussichtlich Kühler für die Referenzlayouts von 3080 und 3090
> geben sowie für die Founders Edition. Die Kühler werden voraussichtlich
> in 4-6 Wochen veröffentlicht. Wir werden nähere Infos über mögliche
> Vorbestellung über unsere Homepage sowie social media Kanäle ankündigen.
> "
> 
> "Hello Mr XYZ,
> there will likely be coolers for the reference layout of 3080 and 3090 as well as for the founders edition. The coolers will most likely be available withing 4-6 weeks. We will announce details on possible pre orders on our website as well as social media"
> 
> Makes me think again if I want to stay with the strix, which might only get okayish coolers (EK) for quite high prices... on the other hand most reference cards (at least if the lists from alphacool and ek are to be believed) don't keep warranty after cooler removal..
> 
> what would you guys think will deliver better performance: strix + ek block or zotac trinity (entry level) + heatkiller? Surely the heatkiller will be the better block, but I doubt that will be enough to beat the potentially better binned chip + higher powerlimit :/


With EVGA you should keep warranty after installing a waterblock. I will probably go with the XC3 Ultra and a Heatkiller block. At least, I hope that the XC3 will be a reference layout. I haven't found confirmation on this.

Those FTW3 and Strix cards look nice with their probably higher power limits, but I prefer to run my cards slighly undervolted to keep boost clocks stable and my watertemp cool. My 1080TI even runs at a higher than stock, but at 60% of the power. I hope I can do the same with the 3080.


----------



## Daepilin

broodro0ster said:


> I hope that the XC3 will be a reference layout. I haven't found confirmation on this.


At least its neither on EKs nor on Alphacools compatibility list for their reference block. Otherwise I would've likely gone for evga


----------



## broodro0ster

Daepilin said:


> At least its neither on EKs nor on Alphacools compatibility list for their reference block


Yes, I know. Asus TUF and EVGA XC3 should be reference PCB as far as I've heard, but I want confirmation before I order. 
I'm not sure if they are not the EK list because they haven't a sample yet or because it doesn't fit. but it's possible that the list will grow in the next few days. Maybe the support could clarify on this.


----------



## Daepilin

The PCB is definitely a bit longer than the 'reference' cards. But according to aquacomputer at least the evga is close to reference. So it might be possible.


----------



## broodro0ster

Daepilin said:


> The PCB is definitely a bit longer than the 'reference' cards. But according to aquacomputer at least the evga is close to reference. So it might be possible.


I just read on the EK website that there will be a separate block for the Asus TUF cards. So it's probably not a reference design.
I hope the EVGA card will be a reference design. All those other reference boards listed by EK are less popular brands and I don't know how the warranty is with them when once you removed the stock cooler.

EDIT: In video Jay says that the XC3 Ultra isn't a reference board: 



 There goes my hope :-(


----------



## Daepilin

yeah, I just ordered a zotac trinity as backup, in casae the strix does not get shipped (as the product page is still broken... though the order seems fine...).

The zotac is definitely reference and at least at some point the allowed cooler change.


----------



## paskowitz

I wonder which will be available first... a 3090 or blocks... today was probably one of the most insane launches for a GPU I've experienced. 8 seconds and everything was sold out. Tons of people running scripts. Lines 12hrs! 12!!! in advance at Microcenter.

Is it 100% confirmed there will be a Strix block? I've seen one mention of that, but the email posted above only mentions FE and ref.


----------



## Daepilin

paskowitz said:


> I wonder which will be available first... a 3090 or blocks... today was probably one of the most insane launches for a GPU I've experienced. 8 seconds and everything was sold out. Tons of people running scripts. Lines 12hrs! 12!!! in advance at Microcenter.
> 
> Is it 100% confirmed there will be a Strix block? I've seen one mention of that, but the email posted above only mentions FE and ref.


not from Watercool. Jakob basically repeated my quote from further up again in a german forum(hardwareluxx) and said for now there is no plan. Of course it might happen at some point, but with needing a reference and an fe block already, possibly in multiple configurations 3080/90 if required (though other manufacturers claim their blocks fit both) zen3 and the radeon cards which might be promising they are incredibly busy.

But he also said they are not eliminating the possibility of making a block for a custom card (he suggested ftw3 or strix) in the future.

EK and Byski are, so far, the only ones that have a strix block on pre order.

Aquacomputer said they are focusing on 'close to reference' cards like EVGA and are also looking at ways to support Asus but did not confirm if they are talking about TUF or STRIX (TUF is a bit closer to reference, but likely strix will be a lot more common with OCers and enthusiasts)

In the german forum the idea came up that with FE supply being so low and all the issues of losing warranty when disassembling they should just ditch the FE in favor of one or two custom cards, but of course they have a good look at the bigger picture of how many blocks for which type of card are actually ordered and maybe FEs are still incredibly popular, who knows


----------



## paskowitz

Daepilin said:


> not from Watercool. Jakob basically repeated my quote from further up again in a german forum(hardwareluxx) and said for now there is no plan. Of course it might happen at some point, but with needing a reference and an fe block already, possibly in multiple configurations 3080/90 if required (though other manufacturers claim their blocks fit both) zen3 and the radeon cards which might be promising they are incredibly busy.
> 
> But he also said they are not eliminating the possibility of making a block for a custom card (he suggested ftw3 or strix) in the future.
> 
> EK and Byski are, so far, the only ones that have a strix block on pre order.
> 
> Aquacomputer said they are focusing on 'close to reference' cards like EVGA and are also looking at ways to support Asus but did not confirm if they are talking about TUF or STRIX (TUF is a bit closer to reference, but likely strix will be a lot more common with OCers and enthusiasts)
> 
> In the german forum the idea came up that with FE supply being so low and all the issues of losing warranty when disassembling they should just ditch the FE in favor of one or two custom cards, but of course they have a good look at the bigger picture of how many blocks for which type of card are actually ordered and maybe FEs are still incredibly popular, who knows


Gotcha. TY. Personally, if the FE enables Watercool to do a unique design, and such a design is feasible to do, I would be all for it. Especially the double sided water block mention in the hardwareluxx forum post.

I'm trying to set up 3 builds... a rebuild for myself, and 2 builds for clients. So figuring out which cards to get / tell them to get is very 🙃 ATM. Is what it is .


----------



## Daepilin

Getting better... Apparently even some of the 'reference designs' might not fit reference blocks... 









[Sammelthread] - Nvidia Ampere [Sammelthread]


Varianten: 3090 Cuda-Kerne 10496 Speichermenge 24GB GDDR6X Breite der Speicherschnittstelle 384-bit Basis/Boost-Takt 1.4/1.7Ghz 3080 Cuda-Kerne 8704 Speichermenge 10GB GDDR6X Breite der Speicherschnittstelle 320-bit Basis/Boost-Takt 1.44/1.71Ghz 3070 Cuda-Kerne 5888...




www.hardwareluxx.de





Someone overlayed the reference pcb with a teardown photo of a zotac card which seems to be slightly longer... So depending on block setup there is more and more variables to consider...


----------



## paskowitz

I guess points for the FE in that case. This whole launch is a crap shoot.


----------



## broodro0ster

Daepilin said:


> Getting better... Apparently even some of the 'reference designs' might not fit reference blocks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Sammelthread] - Nvidia Ampere [Sammelthread]
> 
> 
> Varianten: 3090 Cuda-Kerne 10496 Speichermenge 24GB GDDR6X Breite der Speicherschnittstelle 384-bit Basis/Boost-Takt 1.4/1.7Ghz 3080 Cuda-Kerne 8704 Speichermenge 10GB GDDR6X Breite der Speicherschnittstelle 320-bit Basis/Boost-Takt 1.44/1.71Ghz 3070 Cuda-Kerne 5888...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hardwareluxx.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone overlayed the reference pcb with a teardown photo of a zotac card which seems to be slightly longer... So depending on block setup there is more and more variables to consider...


Thank you for your research. I guess I'll wait and see what Watercool lists as compatible cards and wait to buy. 
I wanted to go Watercool for my 1080TI, but I was able to buy an MSI Seahawk X (factory blocked with EK block) for the price of an aircooled card, so that saved me 200euro's. 
But now I really want to go Watercool since their stuff is so nice.


----------



## Daepilin

Just want to make clear: That was not my research!

btw: amazon.fr just canceled all strix orders -.- so no 3080 for me for now, as they waited until everything else is sold out...


----------



## ppkstat

This launch is a mess watercooling wise. I really wanted to get something from watercool this time and it seems highly unlikely. The reference boards seem to be very few and EVGA seems for the first time not to be an option as they haven't released a single reference card. This is our only chance here in Europe to get a card and not void the warranty. All the ASUS cards come with warranty stickers here.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

warranty avoid stickers mean nothing in the EU


----------



## Daepilin

outofmyheadyo said:


> warranty avoid stickers mean nothing in the EU


Additionally asus confirmed to German website "computerbase" that changing the cooler is allowed and does not void warranty. They asked all the major players about this (which is why I won't by Gainward, Palit and stuff even though they are reference) 

I can link the article tomorrow but don't have it on my phone


----------



## ppkstat

Well here they will not honor the warranty with a broken sticker. I asked the official retailer specifically for my ASUS RTX 2080S.


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> Thank you for your research. I guess I'll wait and see what Watercool lists as compatible cards and wait to buy.
> I wanted to go Watercool for my 1080TI, but I was able to buy an MSI Seahawk X (factory blocked with EK block) for the price of an aircooled card, so that saved me 200euro's.
> But now I really want to go Watercool since their stuff is so nice.


I agree. Heatkiller blocks are really high quality and for there price are very good deal i feel. They perform close to aquacomputer but are cheaper. I imagine Optimus GPU block (if they do come out with it) and its top performer, same situation. The industrial look of them is one of my favourite. Even EKWB short founders seem to have copied them.


----------



## paskowitz

Perhaps I'm on the koolaid a bit... but... the IV Pro still looks/performs great after what seems like an eternity of service and is top quality (I do hope a V comes "soon" though). How long has it taken for EK to release something of comparable quality (Magnitude)? The 2000 series blocks were arguably the best looking blocks for that gen (and possibly my all time favorite). Now EK seems to have figured out some metal over the acrylic is a more premium look (FE 3K block). Very few tube reservoirs match the HK Tube in terms of quality/price/aesthetics/mounting capability. You get what you pay for, and you get a lot with Heatkiller.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Perhaps I'm on the koolaid a bit... but... the IV Pro still looks/performs great after what seems like an eternity of service and is top quality (I do hope a V comes "soon" though). How long has it taken for EK to release something of comparable quality (Magnitude)? The 2000 series blocks were arguably the best looking blocks for that gen (and possibly my all time favorite). Now EK seems to have figured out some metal of the acrylic is a more premium look (FE 3K block). Very few tube reservoirs match the HK Tube in terms of quality/price/aesthetics/mounting capability. You get what you pay for, and you get a lot with Heatkiller.


The main thing with the heatkiller tube is compared to the other combo rez, is that pump is removable without taking apart the loop so you can get allen key to unscrew the bolts say to the pump. That’s where i offer improvement but heatkiller tube is otherwise solid.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Hey guys,
busy weeks! I'm back from surgery, and at full speed again. Sorry I missed out on some topics last week, but as you can imagine, things have been extremely busy for us, as well. It took us some time to figure this launch out, as there were so many colliding and contradicting information about different PCB layouts floating around. We will proceed with a 3 step plan:
- Step1: water block for the so-called "partner reference layout". With this block, we will support as many different cards from as many different manufacturers as possible. You can now find a list of supported 3080 cards at http://gpu.watercool.de . This list is constantly updated as new information is available and we learn more about cards, layouts, and variations. This block will be available from mid to end of October.
- Step2: customized water block for the EVGA XC3 layout. This layout is heavily based on the partner reference layout, and only requires some minor adaptions. It will become available by early to mid November.
- Step3: a fully custom block for one of the "True" custom cards. We are currently undecided between Asus TUF, Asus Strix and EVGA FTW. We will run a poll after the first block is released to learn more about your preferences. Please do not post your individual preferences in this thread right now, as those will ne neither noted nor kept. Please wait for the poll later on.

I will be monitoring this thread again from today on, so if there are any urgent open questions, please repost them, and I'll answer right away.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Hey guys,
> busy weeks! I'm back from surgery, and at full speed again. Sorry I missed out on some topics last week, but as you can imagine, things have been extremely busy for us, as well. It took us some time to figure this launch out, as there were so many colliding and contradicting information about different PCB layouts floating around. We will proceed with a 3 step plan:
> 
> Step1: water block for the so-called "partner reference layout". With this block, we will support as many different cards from as many different manufacturers as possible. You can now find a list of supported 3080 cards at http://gpu.watercool.de . This list is constantly updated as new information is available and we learn more about cards, layouts, and variations. This block will be available from mid to end of October.
> Step2: customized water block for the EVGA XC3 layout. This layout is heavily based on the partner reference layout, and only requires some minor adaptions. It will become available by early to mid November.
> Step3: a fully custom block for one of the "True" custom cards. We are currently undecided between Asus TUF, Asus Strix and EVGA FTW. We will run a poll after the first block is released to learn more about your preferences. Please do not post your individual preferences in this thread right now, as those will ne neither noted nor kept. Please wait for the poll later on.
> 
> I will be monitoring this thread again from today on, so if there are any urgent open questions, please repost them, and I'll answer right away.


Glad to see you back. Any update on rads timeline


----------



## paskowitz

Glad to see you back Jakob! Overall, the current plan seems pretty good. Couple questions...
1. Seems like FE blocks are off the table. Any particular reasoning for this? They score well in terms of $, size, novelty, and demand due to other manufacturers making blocks for them (I buy this card, I know there will be a block). Also, it seems it is possible to design one block (roughly) for both cards (Aquacomputer).
2. That double sided block design mentioned early on in the hardwareluxx forum... is that still a possibility. All indications point to the memory chips needing extra cooling this go around. Perhaps a robust backplate is enough?
3. Assuming a fully custom block is determined by mid October, how long do you estimate it would take to bring to market? The problem now is just figuring out which card to purchase (waiting for something specific or just getting what you can). Chaos!


----------



## mr. biggums

good to see the block plans, that pretty much settles me on an xc3 card whenever I can get my hands on one in canadaland. 
As for step 3 my vote from a purely business standpoint would be the tuf it seems to be the most recommend card from just browsing reddit and based off youtube reviews and would probably have the most sales outside all the other single options, my enthusiast side tells me the strix but until we see proper overclocking and reviews of the top end of 3080's it's difficult to consider them for the price premium they have.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Glad to see you back Jakob! Overall, the current plan seems pretty good. Couple questions...
> 1. Seems like FE blocks are off the table. Any particular reasoning for this? They score well in terms of $, size, novelty, and demand due to other manufacturers making blocks for them (I buy this card, I know there will be a block). Also, it seems it is possible to design one block (roughly) for both cards (Aquacomputer).
> 2. That double sided block design mentioned early on in the hardwareluxx forum... is that still a possibility. All indications point to the memory chips needing extra cooling this go around. Perhaps a robust backplate is enough?
> 3. Assuming a fully custom block is determined by mid October, how long do you estimate it would take to bring to market? The problem now is just figuring out which card to purchase (waiting for something specific or just getting what you can). Chaos!


Yup. I'm going FTW or Strix OC at this point.


----------



## ppkstat

Thank God you decided to make blocks for the XC3s. Now I ll be able to get one to go with my new mo-ra and never buy something from EK again.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

I am looking forward to 3080 AIB waterblocks! Gigabyte/Asus/EVGA preferred. The new 12pin Connector on the Founders card makes it a no-go for me as the adapter is Dog Turd ugly in a sleeved system. I love the Heatkiller GPU block look and hope the design authentic will carry over.


----------



## Chamidorix

Strix vs FTW 3090 is an interesting argument.... short term, it certainly seems the Strix should win out given the 40W higher max PL. However, the FTW has more VRM stages (24!) and the convenience of temp sensors so if vbios flashing is as prolific as with turing (buildzoid is of the opinion firmware will be mostly digitally abstracted from the hardware, so vbios cross compatibility should be very good) ,the ftw3 should objectively be the better pcb. Furthermore, if the rumors of Kingpin using the same PCB as FTW are true, then even with KPE release it will still be the best 3090 PCB until Galax and HOF shenanigans arrive. (good luck getting one). Plus I guess you could maybe use a ftw block on a kingpin, which would be sweet since EVGA dropped the ball so hard on the 2080ti kingpin hydroblock.


----------



## tiefox

I already ordered my 3090 strix! waiting for this block anxiously


----------



## ThrashZone

Chamidorix said:


> Strix vs FTW 3090 is an interesting argument.... short term, it certainly seems the Strix should win out given the 40W higher max PL. However, the FTW has more VRM stages (24!) and the convenience of temp sensors so if vbios flashing is as prolific as with turing (buildzoid is of the opinion firmware will be mostly digitally abstracted from the hardware, so vbios cross compatibility should be very good) ,the ftw3 should objectively be the better pcb. Furthermore, if the rumors of Kingpin using the same PCB as FTW are true, then even with KPE release it will still be the best 3090 PCB until Galax and HOF shenanigans arrive. (good luck getting one). Plus I guess you could maybe use a ftw block on a kingpin, which would be sweet since EVGA dropped the ball so hard on the 2080ti kingpin hydroblock.


Hi,
EVGA lost one of their best engineers too some dude named Tin, did all the mad scientist stuff for KPE...


https://xdevs.com/guide/


----------



## Daepilin

And there are rumors that asus will also still announce some higher tier Strix cards than the oc.

I think it will be incredibly difficult to judge which will be better/more widely bought and no matter what, you will disappoint quite a few people. But that is of course inevitable for a small company with limited R&D.

Ps: techpoweredup said the Strix would be the best pcb they saw so far, but I'm not sure if they had the FTW3 already. They don't have a review up I think but of course they might still have one.


----------



## chas1723

Sad you are not doing a founder's edition block. Maybe for the 3070. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

Daepilin said:


> And there are rumors that asus will also still announce some higher tier Strix cards than the oc.
> 
> I think it will be incredibly difficult to judge which will be better/more widely bought and no matter what, you will disappoint quite a few people. But that is of course inevitable for a small company with limited R&D.
> 
> Ps: techpoweredup said the Strix would be the best pcb they saw so far, but I'm not sure if they had the FTW3 already. They don't have a review up I think but of course they might still have one.


I went with the strix cards in the end because of the pcb. Hope im right. Its really confusing between the oc and non-oc card, same label for them


----------



## Daepilin

Pcbs are the same. Only the bios is different. Maybe the die is binned slightly differently, but nothing more.


----------



## Mordorr

Guys:

I onw a Heatkiller IV platinated WB. Unfortunately, seems some remains of Plasticizer keep coming from inside despite flush of water..

Question:

Is there a tutorial how to open it? tools, pressure, orings used...etc,etc?

Thank you!

P.S Found this:


Contact Support



Seems very easy.....


----------



## Chamidorix

I've swapped to the Strix camp after buildzoid's video and poking around some more into looking up the components in the TPU strix review. Clearly Asus has spared no expense with components and there is a good chance the 22 stages on Strix has higher efficiency than 24 on FTW3 (important while we are power limit gated). Obviously as well the higher quality is indicated by the higher manufacturer approved TDP..

I'm aware of TiN leaving EVGA and assumed this was why KPE edition was sticking with the same or near same pcb as ftw, unlike the 2080ti where they took 6 months to basically make the perfect PCB.

i think the ROG Matrix/equivalent vs Kingpin will be very interesting this generation if Strix vs FTW is anything to go by. If only you could buy Galax HOF easily in America.

I've got a FTW 3090 arriving on Monday and I think I'll be keeping it the box for a bit until we get some more info on Strix 3090 release. It's crazy we have no confirmation of launch date; the ancient facebook video indicates it would be next week or 1st week october but then bestbuy has a release date end of October.


----------



## bkrownd

A waterblock for the xc3 is good, since it's a shorter card that will fit in more cases.


----------



## Daepilin

Do you mean less high? Because lengthwise tuf/Strix are shorter I think. They are just a lot higher

Smalles boards are FE and partner reference


----------



## bkrownd

Daepilin said:


> Do you mean less high? Because lengthwise tuf/Strix are shorter I think. They are just a lot higher


"Less high" if you prefer - perpendicular from the motherboard. "length" is not an issue in my 011 Dynamic


----------



## Asunder

I hope everything went well @watercool-Jacob! Quick question, could we have a (potentially very) rough ETA on step 3? Or at least knowing if the wait is going to be considerably long, while I'd love to have a HK block for a custom board, I'm not willing to beta test nvidia's cards any longer so I'm sure a decent lot among us would rather avoid all the reference stuff.


----------



## Section31

This is one wacky launch. Most of us looking at nov before we get our cards (in my case can change to 20gb or etc as i didn’t even have to provide credit card). I just hope the radiator launch isn’t severely delayed


----------



## pmc25

It's looking to me like the RDNA2 cards will be much more important for water blocks.

It's difficult to imagine it will be as dysfunctional as the Ampere launch, PCBs will likely be much more standardized, availability couldn't really help but be better ... and if clocks being reported are correct (i.e. well over 2Ghz at stock), they're likely to respond well to water cooling. Performance _should_ be competitive given what we know about the PS5 and XB.

AMD pretty much have an open goal. Hopefully they don't send it over the bar.


----------



## Daepilin

Performance yes, but what from sources like igorslab claim ands board partners got their parts lists (bom) really late and he does not expect partnercards this year. 

Might of course be wrong, but he was right about everything with ampere.


----------



## pmc25

Daepilin said:


> Performance yes, but what from sources like igorslab claim ands board partners got their parts lists (bom) really late and he does not expect partnercards this year.
> 
> Might of course be wrong, but he was right about everything with ampere.


Traditionally, AMD's reference PCBs are pretty over-specced on their high end cards. If that holds true, then reference cards and blocks should be more than good enough for most, given the huge mess NVIDIA have made for themselves.

If they cheapen them because they know they've got a winner, then it'll suck. Hopefully they won't.


----------



## Section31

pmc25 said:


> It's looking to me like the RDNA2 cards will be much more important for water blocks.
> 
> It's difficult to imagine it will be as dysfunctional as the Ampere launch, PCBs will likely be much more standardized, availability couldn't really help but be better ... and if clocks being reported are correct (i.e. well over 2Ghz at stock), they're likely to respond well to water cooling. Performance _should_ be competitive given what we know about the PS5 and XB.
> 
> AMD pretty much have an open goal. Hopefully they don't send it over the bar.


For this launch i think so. The more interesting thing i have mentioned is the number of people simply putting off the GPU upgrades. More people i have spoken with will wait till 2022 and do it with next generation of CPU (with DDR5, etc).


----------



## Felgor

Hi all,

I have been lurking this thread for a while, but have a huge Watercool order on the way to Australia.

Which leads me to ask if anyone knows how Watercool handle invoices? There is no invoice in my account on watercool.de, only the order confirmation via email.

I have emailed watercool for a copy as I need it for customs - hopefully I can get a copy asap, as the gear is in NSW awaiting clearance...but I need the invoice first.

That aside, I have a Heatkiller IV Pro AMD, 3x 360 rads, GPU-X, NB block and noiseblocker fans, hard tubing and a heap of Barrow fittings in the order, so very keen to plan it out!

@watercool-Jacob - Keep up the quality work! Looking fwd to a full GPU block and my decision on which GPU will hinge on what you guys put into production.

_Edit_ Got the invoice, gear is out of customs. All good now.


----------



## EniGma1987

@watercool-Jacob Any plans for making an active backplate for use with the 3090?


----------



## nam2912

Hi, can i use heatkiller iv 2080ti block for my 2080 super XC ultragaming
this block








HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti - ACETAL


High-end fullcover water block for Nvidia Geforce RTX 2080 TI and TITAN RTX graphics cards. Copper coldplate, black acetal top (POM).




shop.watercool.de


----------



## Circaflex

nam2912 said:


> Hi, can i use heatkiller iv 2080ti block for my 2080 super XC ultragaming
> this block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti - ACETAL
> 
> 
> High-end fullcover water block for Nvidia Geforce RTX 2080 TI and TITAN RTX graphics cards. Copper coldplate, black acetal top (POM).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de


Yes, your card is reference design which that block will work with. I love mine.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Section31 said:


> Glad to see you back. Any update on rads timeline


Yes. The radiators are finished technically. We are currently finishing packaging, marketing, pictures, etc, these kind of details. So we are aiming for a final release in November.


paskowitz said:


> Glad to see you back Jakob! Overall, the current plan seems pretty good. Couple questions...
> 1. Seems like FE blocks are off the table. Any particular reasoning for this? They score well in terms of $, size, novelty, and demand due to other manufacturers making blocks for them (I buy this card, I know there will be a block). Also, it seems it is possible to design one block (roughly) for both cards (Aquacomputer).
> 2. That double sided block design mentioned early on in the hardwareluxx forum... is that still a possibility. All indications point to the memory chips needing extra cooling this go around. Perhaps a robust backplate is enough?
> 3. Assuming a fully custom block is determined by mid October, how long do you estimate it would take to bring to market? The problem now is just figuring out which card to purchase (waiting for something specific or just getting what you can). Chaos!


1. We can only develop one block at a time, so we had to prioritize which block will yield better results for us: partner reference or FE. In our opinion, the partner reference layout will have the superior reach, simply by it being used by a multitude of manufacturers, instead of just one. So we expect better results from that block.
2. Yes, we do still plan an active backplate which will cool the RAM chips and secondary components on the backside of a 3090 with water.
3. Current very rough guesstimation for the FTW or STRIX block is December/January. But we'll need to take it slowly and do one block after another.


Asunder said:


> I hope everything went well @watercool-Jacob! Quick question, could we have a (potentially very) rough ETA on step 3? Or at least knowing if the wait is going to be considerably long, while I'd love to have a HK block for a custom board, I'm not willing to beta test nvidia's cards any longer so I'm sure a decent lot among us would rather avoid all the reference stuff.


See above 


Felgor said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have been lurking this thread for a while, but have a huge Watercool order on the way to Australia.
> 
> Which leads me to ask if anyone knows how Watercool handle invoices? There is no invoice in my account on watercool.de, only the order confirmation via email.
> 
> I have emailed watercool for a copy as I need it for customs - hopefully I can get a copy asap, as the gear is in NSW awaiting clearance...but I need the invoice first.
> 
> That aside, I have a Heatkiller IV Pro AMD, 3x 360 rads, GPU-X, NB block and noiseblocker fans, hard tubing and a heap of Barrow fittings in the order, so very keen to plan it out!
> 
> @watercool-Jacob - Keep up the quality work! Looking fwd to a full GPU block and my decision on which GPU will hinge on what you guys put into production.
> 
> _Edit_ Got the invoice, gear is out of customs. All good now.


Just to explain our standard procedure: the invoice is created when we actually physically ship the order. We always bag three copies of the invoice with the shipment: one is for FedEx, one is for the destination country's customs, and one for the customer. in 99.9% both FedEx and the customs people are competent enough to understand this and just do the customs declaration by the documents that they get delivered into their office  If any of you ever has trouble with customs declarations, please contact [email protected] , we can also send you a pdf copy of your invoice, of course.


EniGma1987 said:


> @watercool-Jacob Any plans for making an active backplate for use with the 3090?


See above 


nam2912 said:


> Hi, can i use heatkiller iv 2080ti block for my 2080 super XC ultragaming
> this block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® IV for RTX 2080 Ti - ACETAL
> 
> 
> High-end fullcover water block for Nvidia Geforce RTX 2080 TI and TITAN RTX graphics cards. Copper coldplate, black acetal top (POM).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2460434


You can always check http://gpu.watercool.de for this kind of question.


----------



## Felgor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Just to explain our standard procedure: the invoice is created when we actually physically ship the order. We always bag three copies of the invoice with the shipment: one is for FedEx, one is for the destination country's customs, and one for the customer. in 99.9% both FedEx and the customs people are competent enough to understand this and just do the customs declaration by the documents that they get delivered into their office  If any of you ever has trouble with customs declarations, please contact [email protected] , we can also send you a pdf copy of your invoice, of course.


Thank you Jakob, Customs paid and everything received. In this instance there was only a basic packing slip on the box.

Everything is amazing quality, especially the radiators. Very tight in the O11D XL with 3x360 rad, 200mm res and gpu, CPU, chipset blocks but I am getting there. Modding the case, removing the D5 bottom cover, just to gain half a mm of space. 

Hopefully I don't regret it when I see the new radiators!


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes. The radiators are finished technically. We are currently finishing packaging, marketing, pictures, etc, these kind of details. So we are aiming for a final release in November.
> 
> 1. We can only develop one block at a time, so we had to prioritize which block will yield better results for us: partner reference or FE. In our opinion, the partner reference layout will have the superior reach, simply by it being used by a multitude of manufacturers, instead of just one. So we expect better results from that block.
> 2. Yes, we do still plan an active backplate which will cool the RAM chips and secondary components on the backside of a 3090 with water.
> 3. Current very rough guesstimation for the FTW or STRIX block is December/January. But we'll need to take it slowly and do one block after another.
> See above
> 
> Just to explain our standard procedure: the invoice is created when we actually physically ship the order. We always bag three copies of the invoice with the shipment: one is for FedEx, one is for the destination country's customs, and one for the customer. in 99.9% both FedEx and the customs people are competent enough to understand this and just do the customs declaration by the documents that they get delivered into their office  If any of you ever has trouble with customs declarations, please contact [email protected] , we can also send you a pdf copy of your invoice, of course.
> See above
> 
> You can always check http://gpu.watercool.de for this kind of question.


Thanks Jakob. Great news on Rads and GPU front.


----------



## Mordorr

2 years Heatkiller IV Platinium.
Can someone tell me if they are bad, very bad, or this normal. 
Already cleaned the rests of plasticizer, wich was expected.

I have doubts about decolourisation.....on the corners.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes. The radiators are finished technically. We are currently finishing packaging, marketing, pictures, etc, these kind of details. So we are aiming for a final release in November.
> 
> 1. We can only develop one block at a time, so we had to prioritize which block will yield better results for us: partner reference or FE. In our opinion, the partner reference layout will have the superior reach, simply by it being used by a multitude of manufacturers, instead of just one. So we expect better results from that block.
> 2. Yes, we do still plan an active backplate which will cool the RAM chips and secondary components on the backside of a 3090 with water.
> 3. Current very rough guesstimation for the FTW or STRIX block is December/January. But we'll need to take it slowly and do one block after another.
> See above


Hype! TY so much for the reply. One point of clarification, I'm assuming the double sided block would only be for the 3090?

I use it all the time, but I did not know, until I looked it up just now, that guesstimate is an actual word in the Webster's English Dictionary. Neat!


----------



## EniGma1987

Watercool-Jakob said:


> See above


Thanks for the reply! Glad to see an active backplate block is in the works. I will be eagerly awaiting for its release



paskowitz said:


> Hype! TY so much for the reply. One point of clarification, I'm assuming the double sided block would only be for the 3090?
> 
> I use it all the time, but I did not know, until I looked it up just now, that guesstimate is an actual word in the Webster's English Dictionary. Neat!


EK says their block is compatible with both 3080 and 3090 for the same block, that and because both chips use the same original die I would guess they share a PCB this go around. That would mean that the Watercool block _should_ be compatible with either card as well. Only the 3090 has memory chips on the back and needs some sort of backplate, but I suppose for extra cooling of the card someone could use it on a 3080 too. The only issue I would see is that you would need to get thermal pads to place over the blank memory chip spots so that the backplate block doesnt touch the PCB and cause a short.


----------



## paskowitz

I guess you could just use a thicker thermal pad for the 3080, and then a thinner one for the 3090. Considering how meh the reference PCB is, I hope this double sided block is for the FTW3/Strix. It'll be interesting to see how they would get the water to the top side of the GPU. A larger terminal with 4 ports in split flow would be the most logical. G1/4 ports on the topside block would look weird but probably the easiest method. The main problem with this is I/O shield and RAM clearance when the GPU is installed in the top PCIE slot. You would likely have to do vertical mounting in that situation.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes. The radiators are finished technically. We are currently finishing packaging, marketing, pictures, etc, these kind of details. So we are aiming for a final release in November.
> 
> 1. We can only develop one block at a time, so we had to prioritize which block will yield better results for us: partner reference or FE. In our opinion, the partner reference layout will have the superior reach, simply by it being used by a multitude of manufacturers, instead of just one. So we expect better results from that block.
> 2. Yes, we do still plan an active backplate which will cool the RAM chips and secondary components on the backside of a 3090 with water.
> 3. Current very rough guesstimation for the FTW or STRIX block is December/January. But we'll need to take it slowly and do one block after another.
> See above
> 
> Just to explain our standard procedure: the invoice is created when we actually physically ship the order. We always bag three copies of the invoice with the shipment: one is for FedEx, one is for the destination country's customs, and one for the customer. in 99.9% both FedEx and the customs people are competent enough to understand this and just do the customs declaration by the documents that they get delivered into their office  If any of you ever has trouble with customs declarations, please contact [email protected] , we can also send you a pdf copy of your invoice, of course.
> See above
> 
> You can always check http://gpu.watercool.de for this kind of question.


Also thank you for keeping us informed. I am waiting to order 2 x 360mm and try them out. Deciding between 30mm and 45mm done. That and GPU will complete the build (with exception of gpu block). Hopefully we get some performance information so can order once announced


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Mordorr said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2461018
> 
> View attachment 2461019
> 
> 
> 
> 2 years Heatkiller IV Platinium.
> Can someone tell me if they are bad, very bad, or this normal.
> Already cleaned the rests of plasticizer, wich was expected.
> 
> I have doubts about decolourisation.....on the corners.


There is no "platinium" block, from the pictures, I'm assuming that this is a Copper NI block.
It's hard to tell by pictures alone, but I'd say that there is no problem here. It looks to be just discoloration, and you should most likely be able to clean this off with soap water or a mild metal polish. Either way, this should only be an optical issue, and should not influence performance at all.


paskowitz said:


> Hype! TY so much for the reply. One point of clarification, I'm assuming the double sided block would only be for the 3090?
> 
> I use it all the time, but I did not know, until I looked it up just now, that guesstimate is an actual word in the Webster's English Dictionary. Neat!


We are developing only one block that fits both 3080 and 3090. For this block, there will be both a standard passive backplate and an actively cooled backplate. The customer can choose which they prefer. The active backplate will be technically compatible with 3080, as well, but as you pointed out, it doesn't make a ton of sense, as there are no active components on the backside of the PCB. There won't be a risk of a short, as our backplates come with insulating plastic standoffs to keep the minimal safety distance, even when the memory slots are not populated. But you are right, there would be no thermal contact between the memory area and the backplate on a 3080, unless we use crazy thick pads (and I seriously doubt that this will be efficient, after all). 

Oh wow, I also always thought that this "word" would be rather mockery than proper english. Neat indeed!


----------



## Mordorr

Yes you`re right its the Copper Ni Block.

Thank you for your help and answer, Jacob.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

When is the STRIX vs FTW3 vs TUF poll coming up, or wait dont bother just make the strix =)


----------



## paskowitz

From what I can tell the Strix is just now making it's way to customers in the UK and some EU etailers are getting shipments. Nothing for the US so far. Asus sure is taking their sweet time. Given that, I'd say the FTW3 has a decent sales lead ATM. EVGA's recent move to a queue based system for their own store is a plus as well (you'll get a card eventually). We'll see how things pan out through October.

It may seem totally vain, but the main reason I'd prefer the FTW3 is that it's actually a traditional full size PCB. The Strix/TUF PCBs stop short of the end of the cooler. The FTW3 goes all the way to the end. Most of the other cards are going to look kinda weird with blocks on (squarish). Especially in big cases. If you are in a small case, you're likely going FE/ref/XC3 anyways. IMO, ref/XC3/FTW3 is a nice logical progression for WC. EVGA's blocks look especially hideous this year. Biggest competition will be from EK/Bits/Phanteks/etc, which is always be the case. FTW3 is also less expensive.


----------



## Kazimir

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes. The radiators are finished technically. We are currently finishing packaging, marketing, pictures, etc, these kind of details. So we are aiming for a final release in November.


You mentioned the new rads are complete. Will this update include all rads, just internal, or just mora line?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

outofmyheadyo said:


> When is the STRIX vs FTW3 vs TUF poll coming up, or wait dont bother just make the strix =)


I'll post the link in this thread when we are ready to start the poll.


Kazimir said:


> You mentioned the new rads are complete. Will this update include all rads, just internal, or just mora line?


This will only be internal rads. An update for the MO-RA line is on the to-do-list, but without any ETA yet. More pressing products are already queued in the pipeline.

Our RTX 30 blocks can now be pre-ordered! As you can see, we offer six versions for this block: coldplate made from bare copper or nickel plated copper, top made from POM or acryl, and front cover made from stainless steel or anodized aluminum on the acrylic tops. The two versions with nickel plated cold plate and acrylic top come with integrated aRGB illumination.
No, there is no preview render or similar - if you want to pre-order, you'll have to take our word that those blocks are stunningly beautiful! We will of course provide real world pictures once the blocks launch!
Shipping of the copper versions starts on November 5th, shipping of the nickel plated and/or anodized versions, including the passive backplates, starts on November 12th. The active backplate will be added in a later step. 
We will ship pre-orders strictly following first-in-first-out, so the sooner you place (and pay) your order, the earlier in the queue you will be!


----------



## paskowitz

Yes! This block is strictly for the "partner reference" design, correct? Also, nice you are shipping with Kryonaut. Couple questions on the accessories listed. There is a passive bp and an active one. I assume the backplate listing you have up now is the passive one? If yes, I assume active is coming at a later date? Finally there is a "vertical port terminal". is this the stock terminal, just with different materials... or is it a different port with the ports on the sides vs the top/bottom?


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I'll post the link in this thread when we are ready to start the poll.
> 
> This will only be internal rads. An update for the MO-RA line is on the to-do-list, but without any ETA yet. More pressing products are already queued in the pipeline.
> 
> Our RTX 30 blocks can now be pre-ordered! As you can see, we offer six versions for this block: coldplate made from bare copper or nickel plated copper, top made from POM or acryl, and front cover made from stainless steel or anodized aluminum on the acrylic tops. The two versions with nickel plated cold plate and acrylic top come with integrated aRGB illumination.
> No, there is no preview render or similar - if you want to pre-order, you'll have to take our word that those blocks are stunningly beautiful! We will of course provide real world pictures once the blocks launch!
> Shipping of the copper versions starts on November 5th, shipping of the nickel plated and/or anodized versions, including the passive backplates, starts on November 12th. The active backplate will be added in a later step.
> We will ship pre-orders strictly following first-in-first-out, so the sooner you place (and pay) your order, the earlier in the queue you will be!


Thank you for the update. Hopefully the new rads time out well with the actual strix/ftw3 block pre-order dates. Nice to know an update to the Mo-Ra3 is coming, definitely will keep an eye on that.


----------



## Shawnb99

Can we get any more info on the radiators? Sizes, how do they stack up to HWL's, colors and multiport or just the standard dual? What info can you share with us now to wet our appetites'


----------



## rayuma

No renders before pre-ordering? Not a good look.


----------



## ppkstat

Will we get a copper/POM version for the XC3s as well?


----------



## Section31

rayuma said:


> No renders before pre-ordering? Not a good look.


Heatkiller design are generally among the best. I wouldn't be too worried about it. Though last time they had early bird discount for pre-ordering the 2080TI blocks.


----------



## kacsa

I would love to see how it looks like before pre-ordering.


----------



## shiokarai

Will the reference blocks fit Zotac Trinity 3080/3090 cards?


----------



## GAN77

shiokarai said:


> Will the reference blocks fit Zotac Trinity 3080/3090 cards?


This board is slightly longer than the partner reference. The rest is similar.


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Jakob CPU waterblocks for Ryzen 5000 series will be the same or should we expect a refresh?


----------



## DaLiu

deme said:


> @Watercool-Jakob CPU waterblocks for Ryzen 5000 series will be the same or should we expect a refresh?


Yes, I have the same question


----------



## Bart

Why would there be new blocks for Ryzen when the socket isn't changing? They already have Heatkiller blocks of all varieties for AM4.


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Yes, I have the same question


I doubt it, techn blocks results kind of support what jakob said about ryzen 3000 blocks. Techn one is combination of threadripper size coldplate with optimus microfins. The difference is literally 1-2degrees. We will see new blocks for ryzen 6000 (am5) and lga1700 i feel.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

paskowitz said:


> Yes! This block is strictly for the "partner reference" design, correct? Also, nice you are shipping with Kryonaut. Couple questions on the accessories listed. There is a passive bp and an active one. I assume the backplate listing you have up now is the passive one? If yes, I assume active is coming at a later date? Finally there is a "vertical port terminal". is this the stock terminal, just with different materials... or is it a different port with the ports on the sides vs the top/bottom?


Backplates: yes, the currently listed backplates are the passive ones. Generally the same layout as the current RTX 20 backplates. Yes, the active backplate will be added in a later step. We now focus on the block itself.
Vertical terminal: This will be a completely alternative terminal where the ports do not face to front and back of the PCB, but 90° turned, so upwards away from the PCB. This port layout has been requested by many SFF people, and we want to help them for their systems, as well.


kacsa said:


> I would love to see how it looks like before pre-ordering.





rayuma said:


> No renders before pre-ordering? Not a good look.


We see the current pre-order stage as a way to honor our most dedicated hardcore fans: people who have enough faith in our brand to order without even seeing the block will receive it first. People who wait for the pictures will have to wait longer for the blocks. So, it really is a way to pay the trust back to our fans.

Second of all, the Heatkiller V will come with a completely never before seen way to connect the block to the loop. We changed the way a GPU block was made back in 2007 when we invented the separate port terminal, and we will change the flow pattern layout in a similar way with this block. We don't think that a mere render would do the new technology justice, ss we want to present it in best possible way, which will be pictures of the real block.



ppkstat said:


> Will we get a copper/POM version for the XC3s as well?


No. Current plan for EVGA XC3 and Zotac Trinity is that they will only get nickel-plated versions.


shiokarai said:


> Will the reference blocks fit Zotac Trinity 3080/3090 cards?


No. The Zotac Trinity will use the same coldplate, but a different top than the reference layout. So, for us during assembly, it's basically a variation of the same block. For end customers, it's a different product with different product numbers and all.


deme said:


> @Watercool-Jakob CPU waterblocks for Ryzen 5000 series will be the same or should we expect a refresh?


We will not make a new CPU block dedicated to Ryzen 5000. We do have plans for a Heatkiller V CPU block, but there is no ETA yet.


----------



## DaLiu

Bart said:


> Why would there be new blocks for Ryzen when the socket isn't changing? They already have Heatkiller blocks of all varieties for AM4.


One reason, OptimusPC, I love Heatkiller brand but performance wise Optimus have a better block for AM4 right now.


----------



## Bart

DaLiu said:


> One reason, OptimusPC, I love Heatkiller brand but performance wise Optimus have a better block for AM4 right now.


That's a pretty weak reason. I have an Optmius block and multiple HeatKillers, there isn't much difference. Plus, Heatkillers have a far superior mounting system, look much better, etc.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Our survey is now online! Please help us and let us know for which custom RTX 30 PCB layout you would want to buy a HEATKILLER V block!

----> CLICK ME I'M A LINK TO AN IMPORTANT SURVEY <---​


----------



## EniGma1987

Both seem like great cards, but I wouldnt buy the FTW3 because of its single HDMI output where the Strix has two. So far the general sentiment seems to lean towards Strix for a new block so hopefully that is the one that gets made.


----------



## GAN77

Done. Strix.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Strix it is!


----------



## NewType88

Strix as well.


----------



## Chamidorix

Every single other WB manufacturer is doing already doing strix. Only EK and Bysski are doing FTW3 (both mediocre). Also, FTW3 will have perfect compatibility with kingpin BIOS making it the best card to go under water, with 520W power limit or even 1000+ with XOC. Strix will not with its different display output configuration. So we need a premium waterblock manufacturer for the FTW3.

Finally, Asus has been extremely nebulous about strix availability while EVGA is the only vendor to offer a sensible queue system to purchase their cards, and we know there are many FTW3s out in the wild already.

Vote FTW3!


----------



## EniGma1987

Chamidorix said:


> Every single other WB manufacturer is doing already doing strix. Only EK and Bysski are doing FTW3 (both mediocre)


Other than EK, Bysski, and Optimus who else is there? Those are the only other "reputable" companies I have heard from people, though I hesitate to have Bysski even in that list. Seems like If Watercool had a new generation Heatkiller 5 block on Strix they wouldnt be competing with either of their main rivals if they are only doing FTW3 blocks.


----------



## Shawnb99

Strix is Asus the same company that voids your warranty when you install the block you all want. Least with EVGA you can install what you want and don't have to deal with the crap Asus calls CS.


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Jakob Last year you have uploaded a Christmas teaser with a few new products expected to be released within 2020 (rgb pump & a few other stuff) but then covid happened. Are these products still going to be released or they are on hold?


----------



## Daepilin

Shawnb99 said:


> Strix is Asus the same company that voids your warranty when you install the block you all want. Least with EVGA you can install what you want and don't have to deal with the crap Asus calls CS.


Asus confirmed to a German media outlet that they won't void the warranty for cooler switch. And at least you can get Strix here... Evga had I think 2 tiny shipments so far and norhing else... 

Imho the main competitor here would be aquacomputer. While they haven't shown it yet, they claim to be working on a Strix block in their forums.


----------



## Shawnb99

Daepilin said:


> Asus confirmed to a German media outlet that they won't void the warranty for cooler switch. And at least you can get Strix here... Evga had I think 2 tiny shipments so far and norhing else...
> 
> Imho the main competitor here would be aquacomputer. While they haven't shown it yet, they claim to be working on a Strix block in their forums.


Asus also will deny a warranty claim if a sticker is removed so sorry if I don’t trust what one person claims to the media. I wouldn’t trust ASUSfor any warranty claims.
They can make whatever claims they want, the thousands of complaints of their RMA system tells me the real truth


----------



## Daepilin

It wasn't just one pr person it was a higher up, but of course I can't tell you more than that, I just know what I've read.


----------



## GAN77

*Watercool-Jakob ,*

Pay attention to the RGB highlighted connector. This is a reference board from INNO3D RTX 3080 iCHILL X4.
Do you have any compatibility issues? For EK waterblock had to bite off the connector.


----------



## Eulerian

Is there a rough idea when we'll hear the results of which card the block will be made for? (I've been waiting to see which card WC will support before trying to go for any particular 3090 model)


----------



## Daepilin

On the German hardwareluxx forum they said next week


----------



## arrow0309

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our survey is now online! Please help us and let us know for which custom RTX 30 PCB layout you would want to buy a HEATKILLER V block!
> 
> ----> CLICK ME I'M A LINK TO AN IMPORTANT SURVEY <---​


Done, for the MSI X Trio (no hope anyway) 😢


----------



## Turgin

The outcome of this poll will determine which card I try to buy once I actually can exchange my money for one. I have the FTW3 in mind simply because I like the EVGA warranty the best but I really want a Watercool block so that will sway my choice the most. Or, I may just wait for the Hydro Copper if FTW3 isn’t chosen. I could just aim for the XC model too I guess.


----------



## Section31

Chamidorix said:


> Every single other WB manufacturer is doing already doing strix. Only EK and Bysski are doing FTW3 (both mediocre). Also, FTW3 will have perfect compatibility with kingpin BIOS making it the best card to go under water, with 520W power limit or even 1000+ with XOC. Strix will not with its different display output configuration. So we need a premium waterblock manufacturer for the FTW3.
> 
> Finally, Asus has been extremely nebulous about strix availability while EVGA is the only vendor to offer a sensible queue system to purchase their cards, and we know there are many FTW3s out in the wild already.
> 
> Vote FTW3!


Optimus is doing FTW3 too. They already have an sample (provided by an user). My preference is probably watercool based on what they have said about there block but lot of it is timing of block release and GPU availability.


----------



## Shawnb99

Chances are Strix will win the poll. Asus and Strix are way more well known and thus popular then anything EVGA does. Best bet for the FTW3 will be Optimus for a third party card, otherwise just with the 2080ti's FTW3 owners will be limited to the Hydrocopper or EK.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

deme said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Last year you have uploaded a Christmas teaser with a few new products expected to be released within 2020 (rgb pump & a few other stuff) but then covid happened. Are these products still going to be released or they are on hold?


We are in the last steps to finally release the new internal radiator lineup. As you can imagine, a lot of attention and resources is currently diverted to the whole RTX 30 topic, so that slows things down, but we are still optimistic to release the radiators in November.
The pump is still in progress. There were several setbacks with the PCB, and we are still working on it.


GAN77 said:


> *Watercool-Jakob ,*
> 
> Pay attention to the RGB highlighted connector. This is a reference board from INNO3D RTX 3080 iCHILL X4.
> Do you have any compatibility issues? For EK waterblock had to bite off the connector.


Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Our block will be compatible with that connector.


Eulerian said:


> Is there a rough idea when we'll hear the results of which card the block will be made for? (I've been waiting to see which card WC will support before trying to go for any particular 3090 model)


Rough idea: we'll have the decision by next week. I will of course update you here in this thread.


arrow0309 said:


> Done, for the MSI X Trio (no hope anyway) 😢


All hope is lost, indeed. Sorry to say, but the Trio is below 2% - even though we always said that the result of the survey is not mandatory for us, but only one of several tools to hel making our decision, I think it's rather unlikely that the Trio will make the final cut, buddy.


----------



## broodro0ster

The problem with EVGA is that it's harder to source in Europe and their prices are even higher than ASUS. 
We can't even order on the official EVGA website right now. Everything is out of stock and there hasn't been any stock on their website since the release in Europe. I'm checking daily and signed up for notifications, but nothing so far.

My local dealer has direct line with ASUS for warranty and he builds custom watercooling PC's, so for him it's not an issue to get watercooled ASUS cards warrantied. I guess I'll buy a Strix or TUF at his stock once he has them in stock.


----------



## paskowitz

As much as I want the FTW3 to be the card selected, it does seem like EVGA doesn't have good distribution in Europe. UK seems to get them somewhat reliably. While the Strix is extremely hard to get in the US right now, I'm sure it will be more available come next year. Flip side is, pretty much every block manufacturer is making a Strix block. So lots of competition, even on the high end (Optimus, Aquacomputer, and EK. For the later, only in terms of pricing ). Bits, Bykski, Barrow, Alphacool, etc all seem to have very poor performing blocks according to early reports (>10c water temp to core temp delta). I think other brands "plan" on doing FTW3 blocks... but it seems like they are months off as well. Is what it is. I'm going to try to get both models and just trade or sell if I don't have the right one on hand. It's going to be months before the block is going to be available, so plenty of time. Hell, 3080 20gb may be out by then.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are in the last steps to finally release the new internal radiator lineup. As you can imagine, a lot of attention and resources is currently diverted to the whole RTX 30 topic, so that slows things down, but we are still optimistic to release the radiators in November.
> The pump is still in progress. There were several setbacks with the PCB, and we are still working on it.
> 
> Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Our block will be compatible with that connector.
> 
> Rough idea: we'll have the decision by next week. I will of course update you here in this thread.
> 
> All hope is lost, indeed. Sorry to say, but the Trio is below 2% - even though we always said that the result of the survey is not mandatory for us, but only one of several tools to hel making our decision, I think it's rather unlikely that the Trio will make the final cut, buddy.


Me and my friends are waiting for more info on your radiators.


----------



## Shawnb99

Same eagerly awaiting radiator news. Interested in seeing how they stack up to HWL's and if I need to make a change


----------



## Daepilin

please don't make them look to good or my will might break... happy with the mora of course and it's easily enough to cool my system, but from the begining I was thinking of adding at least one 360mm internally to make the system at least short term independent from the mora...


----------



## paskowitz

My biggest hope for the rads is chrome and/or some form of color option like the HK Tube struts/posts (or raw alu inserts that can be DIY anodized). All rads look the same and I wish there was some aesthetic variety to choose from. That would be ace. Performance doesn't have to be has good as/better than HWL, just close. Multiport is nice to have, but not necessary.


----------



## InfoSeeker

How does the MO-RA3 420 D5-Dualtop Modul bracket attach to the MO-RA3?
I did not find a manual on the download page.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

paskowitz said:


> As much as I want the FTW3 to be the card selected, it does seem like EVGA doesn't have good distribution in Europe. UK seems to get them somewhat reliably. While the Strix is extremely hard to get in the US right now, I'm sure it will be more available come next year. Flip side is, pretty much every block manufacturer is making a Strix block. So lots of competition, even on the high end (Optimus, Aquacomputer, and EK. For the later, only in terms of pricing ). Bits, Bykski, Barrow, Alphacool, etc all seem to have very poor performing blocks according to early reports (>10c water temp to core temp delta). I think other brands "plan" on doing FTW3 blocks... but it seems like they are months off as well. Is what it is. I'm going to try to get both models and just trade or sell if I don't have the right one on hand. It's going to be months before the block is going to be available, so plenty of time. Hell, 3080 20gb may be out by then.


All of these considerations go into our decision-making. We are of course aware of the complicated availablitiy, we are in Europe as well, and many of us are desperately trying to get RTX 30 cards for our private systems, as well - hey, we are also just enthusiasts 
As I said, the decision is not finally made yet, I will let you know when the time comes.



Section31 said:


> Me and my friends are waiting for more info on your radiators.





Shawnb99 said:


> Same eagerly awaiting radiator news. Interested in seeing how they stack up to HWL's and if I need to make a change





Daepilin said:


> please don't make them look to good or my will might break... happy with the mora of course and it's easily enough to cool my system, but from the begining I was thinking of adding at least one 360mm internally to make the system at least short term independent from the mora...





paskowitz said:


> My biggest hope for the rads is chrome and/or some form of color option like the HK Tube struts/posts (or raw alu inserts that can be DIY anodized). All rads look the same and I wish there was some aesthetic variety to choose from. That would be ace. Performance doesn't have to be has good as/better than HWL, just close. Multiport is nice to have, but not necessary.


I hear your demand. I will provide all the info on the radiators when we are closer to release date.


InfoSeeker said:


> How does the MO-RA3 420 D5-Dualtop Modul bracket attach to the MO-RA3?
> I did not find a manual on the download page.


It is screwed in on the four M4 threads on the sides of the MO-RA.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> It is screwed in on the four M4 threads on the sides of the MO-RA.


That makes sense, and is what I expected, but the picture shows no screw holes, only the larger holes that appear to align with the grill mounting holes. May I assume the M4 screw holes are the same as those for the HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter?


----------



## raggazam

Hello guys, I recently put the preparation "Cloud White" and I noticed that some spots or small infiltration of liquid appear on the gpu block?





Spoiler: Block GPU


----------



## ging

Like everyone else, eagerly awaiting the results of the RTX 3000 series waterblock poll 

I emailed a few months back and Marcus hinted that there may be a follow up to the industrial dual D5 pump top aimed at the consumer / enthusiast market.
Is there any update for these, or are they still on the back burner until after the GPU blocks and new radiators have been launched?

Been itching to place a large order from overseas (freight costs to Australia sucks), but rather wait for these Watercool product to launch before I pull the trigger.


----------



## EniGma1987

raggazam said:


> Hello guys, I recently put the preparation "Cloud White" and I noticed that some spots or small infiltration of liquid appear on the gpu block?


Very nice looking system.
Those areas are most likely because they are simply "walls" in the block to direct the flow of water, however, they are not attached to the top plexiglass. The glass just sits over them. Theoretically, it should be completely up against the wall tops. However, the pressure of the fluid has most likely caused the glass to flex ever so slightly and so some fluid got over there.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

InfoSeeker said:


> That makes sense, and is what I expected, but the picture shows no screw holes, only the larger holes that appear to align with the grill mounting holes. May I assume the M4 screw holes are the same as those for the HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter?


No, the tube adapter holes are only M3, and are cut into the sheet metal. The larger M4 holes are fixed with threaded rivets and sit farther on the outside of the MO-RA (see this sketch). These larger holes that you see fit perfectly over the outer edge of these rivets, and align the bracket perfectly on the MO-RA.


raggazam said:


> Hello guys, I recently put the preparation "Cloud White" and I noticed that some spots or small infiltration of liquid appear on the gpu block?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Block GPU


This is normal behavior and no need to worry. The acrylic top and the copper cold plate just sit on top of each other, there will always stay an extremely small gap (less than 0.5mm). But the liquid can crawl into that gap due to the capillary effect. This is usal behavior, and can not be completely avoided. It does NOT mean that the block will perform any different.


ging said:


> Like everyone else, eagerly awaiting the results of the RTX 3000 series waterblock poll
> 
> I emailed a few months back and Marcus hinted that there may be a follow up to the industrial dual D5 pump top aimed at the consumer / enthusiast market.
> Is there any update for these, or are they still on the back burner until after the GPU blocks and new radiators have been launched?
> 
> Been itching to place a large order from overseas (freight costs to Australia sucks), but rather wait for these Watercool product to launch before I pull the trigger.


We plan a complete refresh of all pump tops, pump mountings, etc. But this will definitely take some time, so I don't expect it in the first half of 2021. It is on the to-do, but has no priority, let alone ETA. I would recommend you use the industrial pump top if you want to build your system in the near future.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, the tube adapter holes are only M3, and are cut into the sheet metal. The larger M4 holes are fixed with threaded rivets and sit farther on the outside of the MO-RA (see this sketch). These larger holes that you see fit perfectly over the outer edge of these rivets, and align the bracket perfectly on the MO-RA.


Nice sketch, it would be handy if that were posted on the MO-RA3 420 product page.

OK, I see those M4 sockets on my unit.
I 'assume' the M4 rivets are used because the M3 threaded holes for the tube adapter cannot take the load?

I'm asking because I am making my own mount for a dual pump/res layout, and it uses an old EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ (cough) I have in inventory. Plus it will include a small box for electronics (OCTO & adaptors/cables). The mount I am making is currently designed to hang off the tube adapter.

If the tube adapter is not capable of holding a dual pump top (with pumps) and a Tube 100, then I may need to purchase the MO-RA3 420 D5-Dualtop Modul. Is the modul mounting plate available separately, as a spare part, without the pump top?

Below is a photo of my home-made pump/res mount:


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

InfoSeeker said:


> Nice sketch, it would be handy if that were posted on the MO-RA3 420 product page.
> 
> OK, I see those M4 sockets on my unit.
> I 'assume' the M4 rivets are used because the M3 threaded holes for the tube adapter cannot take the load?
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I'm asking because I am making my own mount for a dual pump/res layout, and it uses an old EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ (cough) I have in inventory. Plus it will include a small box for electronics (OCTO & adaptors/cables). The mount I am making is currently designed to hang off the tube adapter.
> 
> If the tube adapter is not capable of holding a dual pump top (with pumps) and a Tube 100, then I may need to purchase the MO-RA3 420 D5-Dualtop Modul. Is the modul mounting plate available separately, as a spare part, without the pump top?
> 
> Below is a photo of my home-made pump/res mount:
> View attachment 2462444


Oh wow, your homemade solution looks really complex, congratulations on it! Yes, the M4 threads can obviously carry more weight and can handle the torque better, that's why we chose those. I can't tell you if the standard M3 threads "can not handle the load", as we never tested it - if possible, we always aim for the more resilient solution.


----------



## Bart

Hey Jakob, what's the word on blocks for AMDs forthcoming GPUs?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Really want that dual D5 mount.

But I don't wanna give up this...










Miss you Jakob! I see you guys are doing great in here!


----------



## paskowitz

Any ETA on when the poll will close/FTW3 Vs. Strix decision will be made?

Oh and one other thing... single slot brackets. For the Partner Reference, XC3 and FTW3 (all have single row rear I/O) if that is the selected full custom card. IMO, this is huge for those with SFF cases and even ATX cases who want flexibility to selected which PCIE slot they populate. Not to mention, your previous brackets were far superior to the stock ones which were often flimsy.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Day one purchase/pre order if you make a block for the ftw3 for me. I think you'll get a lot of demand for it from the US. Also interested in details on rads. I'm going to start buying parts for my new build soon.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Bart said:


> Hey Jakob, what's the word on blocks for AMDs forthcoming GPUs?


We plan to support the top tier of these cards with a dedicated block, as well. We'll have to wait till we have more detailed information from AMD to make final statements.


LiquidHaus said:


> Really want that dual D5 mount.
> 
> But I don't wanna give up this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Miss you Jakob! I see you guys are doing great in here!


A Tube 150 fits just above the Dual pump mount. I think it could still look beatuiful!



Eulerian said:


> Is there a rough idea when we'll hear the results of which card the block will be made for? (I've been waiting to see which card WC will support before trying to go for any particular 3090 model)





Turgin said:


> The outcome of this poll will determine which card I try to buy once I actually can exchange my money for one. I have the FTW3 in mind simply because I like the EVGA warranty the best but I really want a Watercool block so that will sway my choice the most. Or, I may just wait for the Hydro Copper if FTW3 isn’t chosen. I could just aim for the XC model too I guess.





ging said:


> Like everyone else, eagerly awaiting the results of the RTX 3000 series waterblock poll
> Been itching to place a large order from overseas (freight costs to Australia sucks), but rather wait for these Watercool product to launch before I pull the trigger.





paskowitz said:


> Any ETA on when the poll will close/FTW3 Vs. Strix decision will be made?
> 
> Oh and one other thing... single slot brackets. For the Partner Reference, XC3 and FTW3 (all have single row rear I/O) if that is the selected full custom card. IMO, this is huge for those with SFF cases and even ATX cases who want flexibility to selected which PCIE slot they populate. Not to mention, your previous brackets were far superior to the stock ones which were often flimsy.





Edge0fsanity said:


> Day one purchase/pre order if you make a block for the ftw3 for me. I think you'll get a lot of demand for it from the US. Also interested in details on rads. I'm going to start buying parts for my new build soon.


We took this question very seriously: we did not only run our own survey, but also had behind the scenes conversations with retailers and distributors and did an in-depth maket analysis. The conclusion we draw from all these sources combined is: we will make a HEATKILLER® V for EVGA RTX 30 FTW3 water block!

Some numbers from the survey, as I'm sure your curious: there were just over 2000 votes, which is a really good outcome. As expected, the MSI Trio was completeley out of the field with merely 2.65%. But I was surprised to see that the Asus TUF also only got 14.22%, even though the card itself is very popular. It seems that my previous assumption that this card is more popular with air cooling fans is likely. The by far biggest chunk of votes went to Asus STrix and EVGA FTW. We made our final decision not only based on this survey, but also on other data points: availability of water blocks by competing watercooling manufacturers, international spread, availability of cards, manufcaturer support, and RMA handling were all taken into consideration.
We are aware that this decision will make some of you unhappy, but unfortunately, we just don't have the capacity to make both blocks.


----------



## Mroberts95

Sweet. Another block to chose from.


----------



## ThrashZone

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Spoiler: what
> 
> 
> 
> We plan to support the top tier of these cards with a dedicated block, as well. We'll have to wait till we have more detailed information from AMD to make final statements.
> 
> A Tube 150 fits just above the Dual pump mount. I think it could still look beatuiful!
> We took this question very seriously: we did not only run our own survey, but also had behind the scenes conversations with retailers and distributors and did an in-depth maket analysis. The conclusion we draw from all these sources combined is: we will make a HEATKILLER® V for EVGA RTX 30 FTW3 water block!
> 
> Some numbers from the survey, as I'm sure your curious: there were just over 2000 votes, which is a really good outcome. As expected, the MSI Trio was completeley out of the field with merely 2.65%. But I was surprised to see that the Asus TUF also only got 14.22%, even though the card itself is very popular. It seems that my previous assumption that this card is more popular with air cooling fans is likely
> 
> 
> .* The by far biggest chunk of votes went to Asus STrix and EVGA FTW*.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: what 2
> 
> 
> 
> We made our final decision not only based on this survey, but also on other data points: availability of water blocks by competing watercooling manufacturers, international spread, availability of cards, manufcaturer support, and RMA handling were all taken into consideration.
> We are aware that this decision will make some of you unhappy, but unfortunately, we just don't have the capacity to make both blocks.


HI,
So does all that mean you're going make a stiix and ftw lol or what


----------



## paskowitz

Thank you Jakob for going through this process (for us!). 

Can't wait to put a paper back over my FTW3 air cooler and never look at it again.


----------



## Eulerian

Thanks for the confirmation, Jakob! 

Just need to get the 3090 EVGA FTW3 card now... how hard can it be, right?


----------



## shiokarai

So, STRIX and TUF blocks are out of question? Is there any ETA? Can't quite comprehend what's the problem... alphacool is pumping blocks for almost any card there is yet we need polls here?


----------



## GAN77

The magic of the word "Evga" has not worked for me for a long time. Occasional deliveries to Europe, Russia - the issue with the guarantee has not been resolved. A year or two ago, the showdown inside the company does not add optimism. Leaving eugi kinping means a lot.
3080/3090 from evgi, selection of chips in the FTW version? Dismiss) Review EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3 showed the presence of cheap mofsets from an unknown firm alpha and omega. Their efficiency is lower than the plinth. But no worse than China)
On foreign forums, their latest bios are hacked, which work better on third-party cards.
Watercool wants to please the US consumer? I do not know. I do not approve of their choice.

For a snack, a wretched FTW board, which was stupidly and hastily increased to the reference. Reference frame)


----------



## Daepilin

I feel kinda the same... this is about growing in the us market at the cost of the european market. There is not that much of a different reason to support both EVGA cards but no Asus (or even MSI/Gigabyte, although MSI did horrible in the poll). Sure, the XC3 is close to reference and not that hard to support, but still... EVGA is basically non existant and really expensive here compared to other brands and their fabled warranty is also supposedly worse in europe (although I've only read about that, not experienced it myself). My guess would be the strix won the poll but they still went with EVGA because of competition/wanting to get into a market they are not as big in. Still, they never said they would just follow the poll, so...

But oh well, there is still aquacomputer for the strix, sending back the card and switching is no option in this shortage


----------



## paskowitz

Irrespective of specific pcb components, it seems like most 3080/90 cards perform within a very close margin of each other (thanks to the very power inefficient 8nm process) when they have a raised power limit. So, while one card may use higher quality components... the end result to the consumer is barely noticeable. Seems like FTW3s can handle XOC as well. I don't think it warrants concern. I do feel for your EU folks though. Hopefully you can get your hands on an EVGA card and they better expand their support there.


----------



## gengar

GAN77 said:


> Watercool wants to please the US consumer? I do not know. I do not approve of their choice.





Daepilin said:


> I feel kinda the same... this is about growing in the us market at the cost of the european market.


USA-based and won't buy the FTW3 as I want at least 2x HDMI, so the Strix would have been much preferable. I acknowledge Watercool's point about the warranty/RMA, but I'm not sure there's that much pragmatic difference between the companies. In any case, who knows if/when I'll ever get a 3080 anyway. May very well wind up going for the AMD pending availability.


----------



## Section31

gengar said:


> USA-based and won't buy the FTW3 as I want at least 2x HDMI, so the Strix would have been much preferable. I acknowledge Watercool's point about the warranty/RMA, but I'm not sure there's that much pragmatic difference between the companies. In any case, who knows if/when I'll ever get a 3080 anyway. May very well wind up going for the AMD pending availability.


It sucks but for those it means, you got to be in the lottery for both Strix/FTW3. FTW3 and Strix will still have good options per say. FTW3 - Heatkiller, Optimus and Strix - Optimus, Aquacomputer. If i snag an Radeon 6900XT, I am going to just see if optimus needs an sample and send it over to them to get an free GPU block in return.


----------



## Section31

That being said i am leaning more and towards Optimus if i am Strix User, i would just go with copper and thin backplate option. It's under 300USD.


----------



## gengar

Section31 said:


> That being said i am leaning more and towards Optimus if i am Strix User, i would just go with copper and thin backplate option. It's under 300USD.


I just can't consider Optimus any longer given their garbage customer service. I hope they improve.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> That being said i am leaning more and towards Optimus if i am Strix User, i would just go with copper and thin backplate option. It's under 300USD.


Hi,
Ditch those fuji pads too a lot less.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ditch those fuji pads too a lot less.


Lol. I actually have done a lot of word of mouth for optimus. Started the thread here (took gamble on the block) then i convinced quite a number of people including my friends to use them for watercooling needs.


----------



## Section31

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Ditch those fuji pads too a lot less.


Also your work on the optimus sig v2 convinced people i knew to go switch to optimus.


----------



## Asunder

@Daepilin those are some very good points/thoughts, most of them make a lot of sense and I agree, EVGA is a huge premium to pay overseas. But when it comes to "growing in the us market at the cost of the european market", everyone does this dude, that's been the case for a long time especially in the wa-kü market. The us market is too big not to profit off of it so everyone caters to it, they sell in eu regardless because what else would you do, pay customs?! I would say Watercool is actually one of the better ones, compared to what others are doing.


----------



## ThrashZone

Section31 said:


> Also your work on the optimus sig v2 convinced people i knew to go switch to optimus.


HI,
If optimus would give more options we can drill the price down to a realistic number


----------



## Section31

Asunder said:


> @Daepilin those are some very good points/thoughts, most of them make a lot of sense and I agree, EVGA is a huge premium to pay overseas. But when it comes to "growing in the us market at the cost of the european market", everyone does this dude, that's been the case for a long time especially in the wa-kü market. The us market is too big not to profit off of it so everyone caters to it, they sell in eu regardless because what else would you do, pay customs?! I would say Watercool is actually one of the better ones, compared to what others are doing.


I agree. The main issue is launch was bad including the whole no actual reference card issues. That founders custom PCB screwed things up.


----------



## broodro0ster

I really hoped it would be the TUF or Strix card 
I'll have a look at the Aquacomputer or EK blocks. Damn, I was really looking to my first Heatkiller block after having such a great experience with their pump/res combo.


----------



## tarkus33

Any updates on the timeline for release for the FTW3 block?


----------



## Neville0

Will there be a ftw3 backplate available from watercool or will we have to use the stock backplate.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> So does all that mean you're going make a stiix and ftw lol or what


No, it means we will make the FTW block. As of now, we will not make a Strix block at all.


shiokarai said:


> So, STRIX and TUF blocks are out of question? Is there any ETA? Can't quite comprehend what's the problem... alphacool is pumping blocks for almost any card there is yet we need polls here?





tarkus33 said:


> Any updates on the timeline for release for the FTW3 block?


No official ETA, but we aim for a release in December.
We do everything in house. We measure, the cards, design the block, develop the technologies necessary to build it, we machine it, test it, assemble it, ship it - all in house. Other companies only do the design process and then have their products built in China - Of course they can offer a greater variance of versions, as they can just commission another factory for the next production line. This is a different business model, and they do find their customers - but we believe in highest quality instead of lowest price, so we do it differently. And to be able to guarantee the best possible result, we need to focus our capacities to a limited amount of products, so each of these can be truly outstanding.


Daepilin said:


> I feel kinda the same... this is about growing in the us market at the cost of the european market. There is not that much of a different reason to support both EVGA cards but no Asus (or even MSI/Gigabyte, although MSI did horrible in the poll). Sure, the XC3 is close to reference and not that hard to support, but still... EVGA is basically non existant and really expensive here compared to other brands and their fabled warranty is also supposedly worse in europe (although I've only read about that, not experienced it myself). My guess would be the strix won the poll but they still went with EVGA because of competition/wanting to get into a market they are not as big in. Still, they never said they would just follow the poll, so...
> 
> But oh well, there is still aquacomputer for the strix, sending back the card and switching is no option in this shortage


Both assumptions are incorrect. The FTW did win the poll, but we do not want to publish the raw numbers - if other manufacturers are interested in the international market's opinion, they should make the effort to run their own market analysis, we are not willing to hand our results over for free. We do have a good share of the US market already, and while it is true that we want to expand our foothold there, the same is true for the european market, as well - our biggest competitor is in south eastern europe, not in the US  Also, nothing about this block is "at the cost of the european market". While it is true that there is a better supply of Asus cards in Europe, there is demand for a FTW block in Europe and for Strix blocks in the US, just as well. Yes, this decision is a disappointment for Strix owners - but in the RTX 20 Generation, the exact same disappointment was issued by FTW owners, when we supported only the Strix card and not the FTW card. 

Ultimately, this is not about us playing favorites for one or the other side - there ARE NO SIDES, and I would appreciate if we wouldn't boost up a rather small product development decision to something life altering. This is not us being disrespectful to anybody, or favoring one group over the other - this is just us being transparent and inclusive on the decision making of our product lineup.


----------



## Daepilin

I'm sorry if it sounded disrespectful from me, that was not the intention. 

I just really dislike how this launch went, how long everything took (so one could not take your decision into account if one wants a card before mid of 2021) and everything. 

I would have really liked a heatkiller only system but it was not meant to be this time.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, it means we will make the FTW block. As of now, we will not make a Strix block at all.
> 
> 
> No official ETA, but we aim for a release in December.
> We do everything in house. We measure, the cards, design the block, develop the technologies necessary to build it, we machine it, test it, assemble it, ship it - all in house. Other companies only do the design process and then have their products built in China - Of course they can offer a greater variance of versions, as they can just commission another factory for the next production line. This is a different business model, and they do find their customers - but we believe in highest quality instead of lowest price, so we do it differently. And to be able to guarantee the best possible result, we need to focus our capacities to a limited amount of products, so each of these can be truly outstanding.
> 
> Both assumptions are incorrect. The FTW did win the poll, but we do not want to publish the raw numbers - if other manufacturers are interested in the international market's opinion, they should make the effort to run their own market analysis, we are not willing to hand our results over for free. We do have a good share of the US market already, and while it is true that we want to expand our foothold there, the same is true for the european market, as well - our biggest competitor is in south eastern europe, not in the US  Also, nothing about this block is "at the cost of the european market". While it is true that there is a better supply of Asus cards in Europe, there is demand for a FTW block in Europe and for Strix blocks in the US, just as well. Yes, this decision is a disappointment for Strix owners - but in the RTX 20 Generation, the exact same disappointment was issued by FTW owners, when we supported only the Strix card and not the FTW card.
> 
> Ultimately, this is not about us playing favorites for one or the other side - there ARE NO SIDES, and I would appreciate if we wouldn't boost up a rather small product development decision to something life altering. This is not us being disrespectful to anybody, or favoring one group over the other - this is just us being transparent and inclusive on the decision making of our product lineup.


We will learn to live with results. This generation is planning your card around the waterblock. I got hold on both ftw3/strix with eye on 6900xt (no money committed yet).

I am more interested in your internal radiator launch. Its most critical part to complete my loop planning. Rest will come when it does.


----------



## ThrashZone

HI,
FTW3 Ultra or just vanilla ftw ?


----------



## Shawnb99

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> FTW3 Ultra or just vanilla ftw ?


Think it's the same design either way. Should share it with the Kingpin as well or least last gen did. 

Nice thing about supporting the FTW3 is if the Kingpin shares the same board there will be multiple options for blocks and no more limited Hydrocopper


----------



## ThrashZone

Shawnb99 said:


> Think it's the same design either way. Should share it with the Kingpin as well or least last gen did.
> 
> Nice thing about supporting the FTW3 is if the Kingpin shares the same board there will be multiple options for blocks and no more limited Hydrocopper


Hi,
Okay yeah vanilla is evga XC3 line all others are ftw3


----------



## Eulerian

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No official ETA, but we aim for a release in December.
> We do everything in house. We measure, the cards, design the block, develop the technologies necessary to build it, we machine it, test it, assemble it, ship it - all in house. Other companies only do the design process and then have their products built in China - Of course they can offer a greater variance of versions, as they can just commission another factory for the next production line. This is a different business model, and they do find their customers - but we believe in highest quality instead of lowest price, so we do it differently. And to be able to guarantee the best possible result, we need to focus our capacities to a limited amount of products, so each of these can be truly outstanding.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No official ETA, but we aim for a release in December.
> We do everything in house. We measure, the cards, design the block, develop the technologies necessary to build it, we machine it, test it, assemble it, ship it - all in house. Other companies only do the design process and then have their products built in China - Of course they can offer a greater variance of versions, as they can just commission another factory for the next production line. This is a different business model, and they do find their customers - but we believe in highest quality instead of lowest price, so we do it differently. And to be able to guarantee the best possible result, we need to focus our capacities to a limited amount of products, so each of these can be truly outstanding.


One only need to look at LTT's latest video for a stark contrast 😉

I'm sure it would be a bit tricky to do for all models, but which models will the active back plate be available for?

I called EVGA today. They have no plans for single slot brackets for the XC3 or FTW3 ATM. The Hydrocopper versions will both ship with the stock 2 slot bracket. IDK if there is bandwidth for you guys to make a 1 slot bracket for both models, but it would be a nice option for the SFF market. Personally, I just like the flexibility it gives when vertical mounting (aligning tube runs). This was a great feature on the 1080 Ti FE.


----------



## EniGma1987

@Watercool-Jakob Well, I guess ill start it off since I'm sure so many will ask:
What is the estimated timeframe for a Heatkiller V block for reference AMD 6x00 cards?


----------



## chas1723

I hope they make reference blocks as I will probably be going 6800xt. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

ThrashZone said:


> HI,
> FTW3 Ultra or just vanilla ftw ?


As far as we currently know, all FTW cards use one and the same PCB layout, so our block will be compatible with all of them.


paskowitz said:


> I called EVGA today. They have no plans for single slot brackets for the XC3 or FTW3 ATM. The Hydrocopper versions will both ship with the stock 2 slot bracket. IDK if there is bandwidth for you guys to make a 1 slot bracket for both models, but it would be a nice option for the SFF market. Personally, I just like the flexibility it gives when vertical mounting (aligning tube runs). This was a great feature on the 1080 Ti FE.


Thanks for the request! I'll pass it o to the designers, but I think that a single slot bracket should be absolutely no problem - they are comparatively quick and easy to design and produce.


EniGma1987 said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Well, I guess ill start it off since I'm sure so many will ask:
> What is the estimated timeframe for a Heatkiller V block for reference AMD 6x00 cards?


Yes, we will definitely make a HEATKILLER V block for the Radeon 6000 cards! As you can imagine, we are still pretty occupied with the RTX 30 blocks, so I can't give a final ETA yet, but we try to release it in December. If worst comes to worst, it would be pushed back to January, but we are definitely highly interested in these cards!


----------



## chas1723

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, we will definitely make a HEATKILLER V block for the Radeon 6000 cards! As you can imagine, we are still pretty occupied with the RTX 30 blocks, so I can't give a final ETA yet, but we try to release it in December. If worst comes to worst, it would be pushed back to January, but we are definitely highly interested in these cards!


I was not excited about the product until I saw some of the announcement. That 16 gigs of vram will make me feel better since I run 4k and a 1200p monitor. If you could release a Heatkiller Pro V Ryzen CPU block it would be great. I want to go all new blocks for my system once I get a new graphics card. Got to get rid of this EK junk.


----------



## paskowitz

Maybe instead of a whole new block (not happening), maybe just a limited edition CPU mounting bracket anodized in red?


----------



## pmc25

Well, RIP Ampere by the look of it.

Hope the 6xxx blocks come soon, because the 3xxx are completely off the table now for me.

Edit: Has anybody ascertained yet if 6800 and 6900 reference PCBs are different? I'd be kind of surprised if they are. It would make more sense to have a single PCB and overspec it for 6800, to accommodate the 6900, than have 2-3 different PCBs.


----------



## Turgin

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No official ETA, but we aim for a release in December.


Will you open pre-orders?


----------



## Section31

Hopefully you guys have some good news on the radiator front.


----------



## paskowitz

I guess one thing that would be nice to know for the rads, so we can know if they will even fit... the available thicknesses and width (for 120mm and 140mm varients).


----------



## chibi

paskowitz said:


> I guess one thing that would be nice to know for the rads, so we can know if they will even fit... the available thicknesses and width (for 120mm and 140mm varients).


I believe the current sizes will be 30 mm and 45 mm for 120 mm fans. Not sure what the plans are for 140 mm variants or the widths.


----------



## paskowitz

chibi said:


> I believe the current sizes will be 30 mm and 45 mm for 120 mm fans. Not sure what the plans are for 140 mm variants or the widths.


Cool. As long as there is a 30mm I'm good. Then it comes to release date. If I can do XC3 blocks and the rads all in one order that would be ideal.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I believe the current sizes will be 30 mm and 45 mm for 120 mm fans. Not sure what the plans are for 140 mm variants or the widths.





paskowitz said:


> Cool. As long as there is a 30mm I'm good. Then it comes to release date. If I can do XC3 blocks and the rads all in one order that would be ideal.


Hopefully Jakob has some updates for us on that. That's more exciting than the GPU Blocks in my opinion. Nice to see new radiators come out, that area is sorely lacking behind in new products.


----------



## paskowitz

I think the last rad to do anything remarkable is the XSPC TX (20mm and performs well). Otherwise we've pretty much had the same looking/performing rads for what has to be the greater part of a decade.


----------



## EniGma1987

Pardon my ignorance, but do radiators really have any new tech that makes new ones better than older ones? I know fin count makes a difference in cooling potential at the cost of restriction and needing faster fans, and thickness gives you more area to pull away heat and all. But is there really any new tech that is making these exciting?


----------



## chibi

^I'm just in it for the claim of no cleaning needed. I'm not interested in blitzing rads anymore.


----------



## Section31

EniGma1987 said:


> ave any new tech that makes new ones better than older ones? I know fin count makes a difference in cooling potential at the cost of restriction and needing faster fans, and thickness


It's nice to have an actual new radiator to look forward too versus just having option of only x radiator recommended for last couple year.


----------



## broodro0ster

EniGma1987 said:


> Pardon my ignorance, but do radiators really have any new tech that makes new ones better than older ones? I know fin count makes a difference in cooling potential at the cost of restriction and needing faster fans, and thickness gives you more area to pull away heat and all. But is there really any new tech that is making these exciting?


I think it's very hard to beat the HWLabs line up. Their radiators are really optimised and I don't think a lot of gains can be made anymore. It would an achievement for Watercool to achieve the same performance as HWLabs. But if they can beat it, it would be spectacular.


----------



## Section31

Hoping next week we get some news on the new radiators


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, it means we will make the FTW block. As of now, we will not make a Strix block at all.
> 
> 
> No official ETA, but we aim for a release in December.
> We do everything in house. We measure, the cards, design the block, develop the technologies necessary to build it, we machine it, test it, assemble it, ship it - all in house. Other companies only do the design process and then have their products built in China - Of course they can offer a greater variance of versions, as they can just commission another factory for the next production line. This is a different business model, and they do find their customers - but we believe in highest quality instead of lowest price, so we do it differently. And to be able to guarantee the best possible result, we need to focus our capacities to a limited amount of products, so each of these can be truly outstanding.
> 
> Both assumptions are incorrect. The FTW did win the poll, but we do not want to publish the raw numbers - if other manufacturers are interested in the international market's opinion, they should make the effort to run their own market analysis, we are not willing to hand our results over for free. We do have a good share of the US market already, and while it is true that we want to expand our foothold there, the same is true for the european market, as well - our biggest competitor is in south eastern europe, not in the US  Also, nothing about this block is "at the cost of the european market". While it is true that there is a better supply of Asus cards in Europe, there is demand for a FTW block in Europe and for Strix blocks in the US, just as well. Yes, this decision is a disappointment for Strix owners - but in the RTX 20 Generation, the exact same disappointment was issued by FTW owners, when we supported only the Strix card and not the FTW card.
> 
> Ultimately, this is not about us playing favorites for one or the other side - there ARE NO SIDES, and I would appreciate if we wouldn't boost up a rather small product development decision to something life altering. This is not us being disrespectful to anybody, or favoring one group over the other - this is just us being transparent and inclusive on the decision making of our product lineup.


Hi Jakob, Just wondering if any update on the new Radiator


----------



## Shawnb99

Yes please more radiator news!


----------



## JasonMorris

Dumb question but....I've got a 420 Bracket for 180-230 mm Fans and I can't see how to attach my Noctua NF-A20 200mm fans to it as there are no threads on the bracket?. There are only one set of screws provided that are long enough at 35mm are these the correct ones to use? 
thanks


----------



## JasonMorris

Aha... got to use them nutz


----------



## paskowitz

3080 blocks available in 2 days...🔍404 no pics found😬


----------



## Felgor

I hope Sapphire Nitro+ 6800xt is a possibility for the full water block. The backplate is super sexy.


----------



## GAN77

November 12 has arrived. There is no live photo, there is no update of information about fullcaves RTX3000.


----------



## InfoSeeker

GAN77 said:


> November 12 has arrived. There is no live photo, there is no update of information about fullcaves RTX3000.


Oh, the Humanity... time for a full-throated temper tantrum 😄


----------



## kacsa

soonTM

edit: delayed till november 19, 26 and i strongly assume everything else is delayed so no end of november for xc3 either.


----------



## JasonMorris

On a HEATKILLER® Tube 200 does it matter which port you use for in and out on the front below the tube if you do not have a pump attached to it as it is not marked? Some other reservoirs I have owned mark the ports. Thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Section31 said:


> Hoping next week we get some news on the new radiators


I know that you guys are waiting for the radiators. I will publish updates on them very soon. We are currently finishing another big project. DIrectly after that, by end of November, you will get all Infos on the radiators!


paskowitz said:


> 3080 blocks available in 2 days...🔍404 no pics found😬


Unfortunately, we had to push all RTX 30 products back a little bit. The reference layout blocks are currently scheduled for end of November, and the long verison and XC3 version will follow shortly thereafter.


Felgor said:


> I hope Sapphire Nitro+ 6800xt is a possibility for the full water block. The backplate is super sexy.


No final decision is made yet, but usually: no. FOr AMD cards, it usually doesn't make a lot of sense to support custom PCB layouts, so I expect that we will focus on the reference layout only.


JasonMorris said:


> On a HEATKILLER® Tube 200 does it matter which port you use for in and out on the front below the tube if you do not have a pump attached to it as it is not marked? Some other reservoirs I have owned mark the ports. Thanks.


On a standalone tube without any pump integration, it doesn't matter which port is used as in or out, the internal structure can function both ways.


----------



## Leonko

any news on fan regulator which should be announced on christmas 2018 ?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> any news on fan regulator which should be announced on christmas 2018 ?


Nothing in 2 years? I'd say that puppy is dead. Just get an OCTO & be done with it.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I know that you guys are waiting for the radiators. I will publish updates on them very soon. We are currently finishing another big project. DIrectly after that, by end of November, you will get all Infos on the radiators!
> 
> Unfortunately, we had to push all RTX 30 products back a little bit. The reference layout blocks are currently scheduled for end of November, and the long verison and XC3 version will follow shortly thereafter.
> 
> No final decision is made yet, but usually: no. FOr AMD cards, it usually doesn't make a lot of sense to support custom PCB layouts, so I expect that we will focus on the reference layout only.
> 
> On a standalone tube without any pump integration, it doesn't matter which port is used as in or out, the internal structure can function both ways.


Thanks for the updates. As always, much appreciated!


----------



## JasonMorris

Thanks Jakob.


----------



## deme

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We are currently finishing another big project.


Any info for that big project? 😁


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> I know that you guys are waiting for the radiators. I will publish updates on them very soon. We are currently finishing another big project. DIrectly after that, by end of November, you will get all Infos on the radiators!
> 
> Unfortunately, we had to push all RTX 30 products back a little bit. The reference layout blocks are currently scheduled for end of November, and the long verison and XC3 version will follow shortly thereafter.
> 
> No final decision is made yet, but usually: no. FOr AMD cards, it usually doesn't make a lot of sense to support custom PCB layouts, so I expect that we will focus on the reference layout only.
> 
> On a standalone tube without any pump integration, it doesn't matter which port is used as in or out, the internal structure can function both ways.


Thanks for update


----------



## Felgor

Thanks Jakob, now to find a reference 6800xt one released.


----------



## Turgin

Can someone tell me which brand and color fittings most closely match the Heatkiller nickel plating? Please don't say ek...


----------



## GAN77

12,19, 27,,, (( I think there will be other dates.

Evga produces cards with its own fullcaver with a slight price difference compared to air.
I was right, I had to do an asus)


----------



## Section31

Turgin said:


> Can someone tell me which brand and color fittings most closely match the Heatkiller nickel plating? Please don't say ek...


I would imagine silver of most brands. If you want nickel color, you could use optimus fittings.


----------



## chibi

Turgin said:


> Can someone tell me which brand and color fittings most closely match the Heatkiller nickel plating? Please don't say ek...


I'd get a Bitspower Blacksparkle and compare with the dark nickel from Heatkiller. I know my Heatkiller IV Pro Nickel Intel block matched pretty well with those fittings.


----------



## paskowitz

GAN77 said:


> 12,19, 27,,, (( I think there will be other dates.
> 
> Evga produces cards with its own fullcaver with a slight price difference compared to air.
> I was right, I had to do an asus)


True... but they are pretty hideous, have a stupid terminal layout and if previous generations are anything to go by, don't perform all that well. Also, having no air cooler makes the card hard to sell down the road. It's not a free lunch.


----------



## Leonko

InfoSeeker said:


> Nothing in 2 years? I'd say that puppy is dead. Just get an OCTO & be done with it.


irony with this is, that octo is 60+ days unavailable  but i have 2 OCTOs already. i just wanted to see how competitive heatkiller can be.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> irony with this is, that octo is 60+ days unavailable  but i have 2 OCTOs already. i just wanted to see how competitive heatkiller can be.


It;s more than just the hardware, the aquasuite is what makes the difference.

ModMyMods has OCTOs in stock atm... probablly wont last long, but...


----------



## Section31

Leonko said:


> irony with this is, that octo is 60+ days unavailable  but i have 2 OCTOs already. i just wanted to see how competitive heatkiller can be.


It's honestly hard to compete with aquacomputer. Once you start investing into there ecosystem you never change. There new flow/temp sensor alone just keeps you within there eco-system. Lot of people ordered them from the looks. It's basically there version of Barrows Digital one but is actually an good and accurate one.


----------



## pmc25

The wait begins for the AMD block ...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Folks, I am very happy to announce: Our new website is finally online! You can find it at Startseite - Watercool , as usual. We did a completely new design, new site navigation, and created completely new content.

The shop is completely new, as well: it has many new functions, filters, settings, layout and look. You can still find it at http://shop.watercool.de All open orders from the old system will, of course, still be fulfilled and shipped, even though you cannot enter or check old orders. For new orders, you will have to create a new account, as it is not possible to migrate the existing accounts to the new system.

And finally, the underlying ERP and inventory management system are completely new. This will make our internal processes faster, more efficient, order tracking and organisation will become more transparent and digitally trackable, and our whole processing will become just - better. Due to the whole system change and relaunch, there will be a delay in shipping this week, but we will honor all existing orders nevertheless!

As you can imagine, this whole project consumed a lot of time, brain capacity, resources, and money, and we are extremely proud to finally present it to you guys! Please start exploring the site as much as you want. If you find any bugs, you can help us by reporting them to [email protected] (this address will not be responded from). We look forward to any feedback here, be it about looks, functions, or suggestions!


----------



## Shawnb99

The new radiators on there?


----------



## paskowitz

Website seems pretty good. Some things are still in German when I have the English version selected, but NBD. Mostly just options (when configuring a product). One thing I noticed, the XC3 has no backplate product listing (reference and Zotac do). I assume you'll announce here when the XC3 goes up for preorder? On that note, one thing that would be nice would be stock/preorder notifications (email) for various products. That way we don't have to bug you .


----------



## JasonMorris

Can't login and when I ask for a password reset it says no such email address which is wrong as I had an order delivered today.


----------



## EniGma1987

JasonMorris said:


> Can't login and when I ask for a password reset it says no such email address which is wrong as I had an order delivered today.





Watercool-Jakob said:


> All open orders from the old system will, of course, still be fulfilled and shipped, even though *you cannot enter or check old orders*. For new orders, you will have to create a new account, as *it is not possible to migrate the existing accounts to the new system.*


----------



## LiquidHaus

Jakob...You said XC3, but did you mean FTW3?


----------



## Barefooter

The new web site and store looks great Jakob! Nice upgrade


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Jakob Nice upgrade! Much much better than the old site, good job!

Jakob, since the EVGA 3080 XC3 black gaming has no backplate, is there any backplate compatible for this one?

Furthermore, should we expect any black Friday discount/coupon?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Shawnb99 said:


> The new radiators on there?


Not yet.


paskowitz said:


> Website seems pretty good. Some things are still in German when I have the English version selected, but NBD. Mostly just options (when configuring a product). One thing I noticed, the XC3 has no backplate product listing (reference and Zotac do). I assume you'll announce here when the XC3 goes up for preorder? On that note, one thing that would be nice would be stock/preorder notifications (email) for various products. That way we don't have to bug you .


I like the notification idea. We'll see if we can implement that. Thank you.


LiquidHaus said:


> Jakob...You said XC3, but did you mean FTW3?


Depends on the context, but most likely not. I don't know which context you are referring to, so I can't comment on it. We will make blocks for both layouts.


Barefooter said:


> The new web site and store looks great Jakob! Nice upgrade


thanks 🙏


deme said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Nice upgrade! Much much better than the old site, good job!
> 
> Jakob, since the EVGA 3080 XC3 black gaming has no backplate, is there any backplate compatible for this one?
> 
> Furthermore, should we expect any black Friday discount/coupon?


We plan to make the XC3 block compatible with the stock backplate, so we do not plan a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for it. This might change doewn the road, but this is current planning.
No, we will not do black friday promo.


----------



## paskowitz

No XC3 backplate... that's disappointing TBH. The stock one is pretty hideous with that red stripe (not to mention 3090 XC3 buyers would get practical use out of a backplate). I'd be willing to bet 9/10 XC3 block buyers would order a backplate. Personally, so much so I would purchase a backplate from another brand, assuming it's compatible, if there is no other option from Watercool.


----------



## kacsa

I would rather have a matching backplate for my xc3 than order it from a different brand or use the stock one.


----------



## broodro0ster

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We plan to make the XC3 block compatible with the stock backplate, so we do not plan a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for it. This might change doewn the road, but this is current planning.


Please reconsider this. No one wants a nice Heatkiller block and use the stock back plate. Really no one


----------



## Biggu

broodro0ster said:


> Please reconsider this. No one wants a nice Heatkiller block and use the stock back plate. Really no one


I for one would like to keep the stock one. My build had red in it so im fine.


----------



## paskowitz

Biggu said:


> I for one would like to keep the stock one. My build had red in it so im fine.


Ok, well, almost no one.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Heatkiller IV Pro at the heart of the Cyberpunk 2077 Build we just finished:


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We plan to make the XC3 block compatible with the stock backplate, so we do not plan a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for it. This might change doewn the road, but this is current planning.
> No, we will not do black friday promo.


Thanks for the info Jacob. the XC3 is the only evga 3090 card that will fit in my build with a waterblock. Otherwise I would have bought an FTW3. I was wondering whether the XC3 block will be full cover or there will be part of the pcb that is bare at the end since the reference blocks are shorter. I would also really appreaciate a full cover backplate for the XC3 as well


----------



## jjxaker

Where can I buy an analog HEATKILLER® TUBE - SPARE PARTS -STANDPIPE FOR MULTIPORT 150 but, the material is stainless steel???
Acrylic tube that comes with a crack immediatel. it cracks by itself, i can't even take it in your hands. I will cut off the cracked part, but I want to see the replacement as
metal! How much can use this **** in the form of acrylic...







Watercool can be made to order? i ready to pay up to 50$.
Need an analog, but 120mm. or at least 80mm.


----------



## ThrashZone

LiquidHaus said:


> Heatkiller IV Pro at the heart of the Cyberpunk 2077 Build we just finished:


Hi,
Looks nice I'm very confused on the piping with the flow meter though.


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Jakob any idea when this baby will be back in stock?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

broodro0ster said:


> Please reconsider this. No one wants a nice Heatkiller block and use the stock back plate. Really no one


Thank you all for the feedback on this issue. I'll pass it on to R&D and we'll see what will be decided.


LiquidHaus said:


> Heatkiller IV Pro at the heart of the Cyberpunk 2077 Build we just finished:


Love the build!


jjxaker said:


> Where can I buy an analog HEATKILLER® TUBE - SPARE PARTS -STANDPIPE FOR MULTIPORT 150 but, the material is stainless steel???
> Acrylic tube that comes with a crack immediatel. it cracks by itself, i can't even take it in your hands. I will cut off the cracked part, but I want to see the replacement as
> metal! How much can use this **** in the form of acrylic...
> View attachment 2466557
> 
> Watercool can be made to order? i ready to pay up to 50$.
> Need an analog, but 120mm. or at least 80mm.
> View attachment 2466558
> View attachment 2466559


We don't offer anything like this in metal. I can offer to send you a replacement acrylic tube, if that helps. If you are interested, please send a mail with your shipping info to [email protected]


deme said:


> @Watercool-Jakob any idea when this baby will be back in stock?


It will be back in stock next week


----------



## jjxaker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> We don't offer anything like this in metal. I can offer to send you a replacement acrylic tube, if that helps. If you are interested, please send a mail with your shipping info to [email protected]


Thank you for your reply. I will look for a metal tube of the required length on my own. 
I will temporarily use this little metal tube, overall not bad.


----------



## Stephen.

jjxaker said:


> Thank you for your reply. I will look for a metal tube of the required length on my own.
> I will temporarily use this little metal tube, overall not bad.
> View attachment 2466611


Bitspower makes a metal version of this and it's called the aquapipe, comes in different finishes not too sure about exact lengths though.


----------



## chibi

jjxaker said:


> Where can I buy an analog HEATKILLER® TUBE - SPARE PARTS -STANDPIPE FOR MULTIPORT 150 but, the material is stainless steel???
> Acrylic tube that comes with a crack immediatel. it cracks by itself, i can't even take it in your hands. I will cut off the cracked part, but I want to see the replacement as
> metal! How much can use this **** in the form of acrylic...
> 
> Watercool can be made to order? i ready to pay up to 50$.
> Need an analog, but 120mm. or at least 80mm.





Stephen. said:


> Bitspower makes a metal version of this and it's called the aquapipe, comes in different finishes not too sure about exact lengths though.


Bitspower Aqua Pipe 1 - it's 110mm length and comes in various finishes. I've used it in past builds with my Heatkiller Tube multiport top.


----------



## InfoSeeker

chibi said:


> Bitspower Aqua Pipe 1 - it's 110mm length and comes in various finishes. I've used it in past builds with my Heatkiller Tube multiport top.


I believe the aqua-pipe I is actually 50 mm long:


----------



## D-EJ915

Can confirm my shining aqua pipe I BP-WTP-C17 is 55mm long from end to end.


----------



## Section31

jjxaker said:


> Thank you for your reply. I will look for a metal tube of the required length on my own.
> I will temporarily use this little metal tube, overall not bad.
> View attachment 2466611


Theres another variant too of it. It comes with an extended g1/4 end. Aquapipe II i think


----------



## InfoSeeker

jjxaker said:


> Thank you for your reply. I will look for a metal tube of the required length on my own.
> I will temporarily use this little metal tube, overall not bad.


An easy, and fairly elegant solution, could be to get a Coated Brass Tube of the diameter/color that fits your build, cut it to the length you need, and add a matching fitting to mount it.


----------



## jjxaker

InfoSeeker said:


> An easy, and fairly elegant solution, could be to get a Coated Brass Tube of the diameter/color that fits your build, cut it to the length you need, and add a matching fitting to mount it.


An interesting suggestion, I didn't even think about such an easy way...


----------



## InfoSeeker

jjxaker said:


> An interesting suggestion, I didn't even think about such an easy way...


Please don't purchase anything immediately!

I just saw a comment under Features for their Brass Tubing that states:


> Features:
> 1. Only Compatible With Bitspower Fitting C47/C48/ML Series.


I believe the ML series includes their Enhanced and Advanced Multi-Link fittings, but I sent an email to Bitspower requesting confirmation.

Edit: received a reply from Bitspower, and as suspected, any of their hard tube fittings will work with their brass tubing.


> Sorry, the information of BP-NCBHT12BS-L500 is not comprehensive.
> All of our fitting which fits for OD12mm hard tube is compatible.
> Includes BP-BSEMLA12.


----------



## Felgor

@Watercool-Jakob Would you be able to do a 3080 XC3 block like the below in regards to being acrylic top, nickel trim and bare copper cold plate? I couldn't see an Acrylic with just copper, only Ni plated.


----------



## kacsa

You guys pulling a cyberpunk on us.


----------



## Felgor

kacsa said:


> You guys pulling a cyberpunk on us.


Better that than an AMD...


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Felgor said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Would you be able to do a 3080 XC3 block like the below in regards to being acrylic top, nickel trim and bare copper cold plate? I couldn't see an Acrylic with just copper, only Ni plated.
> 
> View attachment 2466764


Correct, we only plan nickel plated blocks for the XC3. But we are absolutely able to make a special one-off in bare copper, if you send a mail to [email protected] and ask nicely. Please be aware that this will take a few weeks, since we will have to wait for the next production run of coldplates, and obviously, this offer only becomes valid after the release of the block itself. In other words: asking for it right now is pointless 


kacsa said:


> You guys pulling a cyberpunk on us.


Our highest priority has always been pristine quality. We do not make ANY compromise on quality and perfection. If this means that our product is delayed, we accept that. We are absolutely fine with being the last to market, as long as we are the BEST. We are also fully aware that we are hurting our sales by this policy - seeing how everybody else is selling blocks in big numbers really grinds my gears, I can tell you! But our quality demand is just more important to us than making a quick buck...


----------



## GAN77

GAN77 said:


> 12,19, 27,,, (( I think there will be other dates.



The priority of quality is good. But the deadlines for full cavers have shifted by a month. There is also no live photo. "You tell us and everything will be fine")


----------



## jjxaker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Our highest priority has always been pristine quality. We do not make ANY compromise on quality and perfection. If this means that our product is delayed, we accept that. We are absolutely fine with being the last to market, as long as we are the BEST. We are also fully aware that we are hurting our sales by this policy - seeing how everybody else is selling blocks in big numbers really grinds my gears, I can tell you! But our quality demand is just more important to us than making a quick buck...


I support this policy. I don't even care how your products will look, I will choose you anyway. Even if I temporarily buy a product from another brand.
Being a blind fan, is bad. but what can, do if you really like the quality. the appearance is of secondary importance. so I'm ready to pay even, for what I don't see.
If the quality does not fall over the years, I will buy all the components only from Watercool. The delay in the release of new products is not at all scary, you can even wait three months. if it really burns, then temporarily you can buy a waterblock from the Chinese for a penny, the quality will be at the level EKWB


----------



## paskowitz

I expected a delay given the pandemic and factory upgrade. That doesn't really bother me. People buy Watercool for the quality.

With that said... the no photo part is a bit concerning/irking. No teasers, nothing. You could roll it out in phases. Shot of the machines running, then a block getting milled, block after it's plated, acrylic milling, final assembly, then the final product studio shots. Same deal with the rads. Seeing something may lessen the flow of people "jumping ship".


----------



## pmc25

@Watercool-Jakob now that we know AMD ref models are going to be very sparse, then stop completely early next year, which non-ref models are you looking at?

Powercolor Red Devil and Sapphire Nitro/Pulse look like the ones to have.


----------



## Felgor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Correct, we only plan nickel plated blocks for the XC3. But we are absolutely able to make a special one-off in bare copper, if you send a mail to [email protected] and ask nicely. Please be aware that this will take a few weeks, since we will have to wait for the next production run of coldplates, and obviously, this offer only becomes valid after the release of the block itself. In other words: asking for it right now is pointless


Awesome, thank you. If my pre order for the XC3 sticks I'll email you guys.


----------



## paskowitz

I'm sincerely hoping this is the final delay...


----------



## Felgor

paskowitz said:


> I'm sincerely hoping this is the final delay...
> View attachment 2467101


I think that is for the next production run ?


----------



## paskowitz

Felgor said:


> I think that is for the next production run ?


Wait... it already went up for pre order?!?!? Where the heck was the announcement!?!? Nothing on twitter. Nothing on Facebook. Nothing here. That's pretty messed up if true.


----------



## Felgor

paskowitz said:


> Wait... it already went up for pre order?!?!? Where the heck was the announcement!?!? Nothing on twitter. Nothing on Facebook. Nothing here. That's pretty messed up if true.


See below, to me that indicates the first run was already underway. I don't remember if it was listed as pre order or not.

If my own 3080 xc3 order is confirmed, I'll be emailing Watercool to pre order, back order, whatever. 





Watercool-Jakob said:


> Correct, we only plan nickel plated blocks for the XC3. But we are absolutely able to make a special one-off in bare copper, if you send a mail to [email protected] and ask nicely. Please be aware that this will take a few weeks, since we will have to wait for the next production run of coldplates, and obviously, this offer only becomes valid after the release of the block itself. In other words: asking for it right now is pointless
> 
> Our highest priority has always been pristine quality. We do not make ANY compromise on quality and perfection. If this means that our product is delayed, we accept that. We are absolutely fine with being the last to market, as long as we are the BEST. We are also fully aware that we are hurting our sales by this policy - seeing how everybody else is selling blocks in big numbers really grinds my gears, I can tell you! But our quality demand is just more important to us than making a quick buck...


----------



## Streetdragon

so no infos for a new Waterblock for the 6800 XT FE


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

paskowitz said:


> I'm sincerely hoping this is the final delay...
> View attachment 2467101


I can't promise if this is the final delay. If we will find that the block is not ready for release, we will push it back again to make sure that it'll be the BEST possible block.


paskowitz said:


> Wait... it already went up for pre order?!?!? Where the heck was the announcement!?!? Nothing on twitter. Nothing on Facebook. Nothing here. That's pretty messed up if true.


No, there was no production run yet, let alone a pre-order phase. Felgor misunderstood my previous statement. What I meant is that special wishes like his ALWAYS come with a waiting period and I wanted to prepare them for that. I was talking about the hypothetical next production run from the time point where they place that custom wish. Not the factual next production run from November 27th.


Streetdragon said:


> so no infos for a new Waterblock for the 6800 XT FE


We will make blocks for RTX 6800, 6800XT and 6900. They are currently scheduled for a release in January.


----------



## mattxx88

hi, no plan for a 3090 FE waterblock?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

The current GPU block release plan is, in this order:

RTX 30 Reference
RTX 30 Zotac
RTX 30 XC3
Radeon 6000 Reference
RTX 30 FTW

We estimate that XC3 and Radeon might be introduced in December, but will start to become available in January. No, we do not plan any blocks for RTX 30 Founders Edition cards.


----------



## chibi

Jakob, how far along are the new radiators? Any news you can share please?


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Jakob, how far along are the new radiators? Any news you can share please?


That make's it literally three of us from the same area asking about that.


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Correct, we only plan nickel plated blocks for the XC3. But we are absolutely able to make a special one-off in bare copper, if you send a mail to [email protected] and ask nicely. Please be aware that this will take a few weeks, since we will have to wait for the next production run of coldplates, and obviously, this offer only becomes valid after the release of the block itself. In other words: asking for it right now is pointless
> 
> Our highest priority has always been pristine quality. We do not make ANY compromise on quality and perfection. If this means that our product is delayed, we accept that. We are absolutely fine with being the last to market, as long as we are the BEST. We are also fully aware that we are hurting our sales by this policy - seeing how everybody else is selling blocks in big numbers really grinds my gears, I can tell you! But our quality demand is just more important to us than making a quick buck...





Watercool-Jakob said:


> The current GPU block release plan is, in this order:
> 
> RTX 30 Reference
> RTX 30 Zotac
> RTX 30 XC3
> Radeon 6000 Reference
> RTX 30 FTW
> 
> We estimate that XC3 and Radeon might be introduced in December, but will start to become available in January. No, we do not plan any blocks for RTX 30 Founders Edition cards.


Will the RTX 30 XC3 be full cover?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

chibi said:


> Jakob, how far along are the new radiators? Any news you can share please?





Section31 said:


> That make's it literally three of us from the same area asking about that.


Soon™, my dears!



djwarreng said:


> Will the RTX 30 XC3 be full cover?


Yes, the block will cover the entire PCB.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Please forgive my double post, but I guess that this is relevant information for some of you:
- We renamed the "Zotac Trinity" blocks to "Long version". A PCB layout from Inno3D will also be compatible with this block. Please check our compatibility list (and press ctrl+F5) for all current information.
- Due to your input and demand, we decided to make a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for the XC3 blocks.
- Both the "Long Version" and the XC3 blocks and backplates can now be pre-ordered in our shop!


----------



## zerone

Sorry if this was answered already, cant find the search thread option in the new layout.

Are you planning a 3080 FTW3 block as well? Don't see it listed on the website here:




__





Waterblocks - GPU GeForce® RTX 3080/3090


GPU Universal, Backplates, Accessories, Spare Parts




shop.watercool.de


----------



## kacsa

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Please forgive my double post, but I guess that this is relevant information for some of you:
> 
> We renamed the "Zotac Trinity" blocks to "Long version". A PCB layout from Inno3D will also be compatible with this block. Please check our compatibility list (and press ctrl+F5) for all current information.
> Due to your input and demand, we decided to make a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for the XC3 blocks.
> Both the "Long Version" and the XC3 blocks and backplates can now be pre-ordered in our shop!


Little confusing.
You gonna make a dedicated xc3 blackplate later but for now the "long version" is compatible or the "long version" is the dedicated blackplate xc3 blackplate?


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Please forgive my double post, but I guess that this is relevant information for some of you:
> 
> We renamed the "Zotac Trinity" blocks to "Long version". A PCB layout from Inno3D will also be compatible with this block. Please check our compatibility list (and press ctrl+F5) for all current information.
> Due to your input and demand, we decided to make a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for the XC3 blocks.
> Both the "Long Version" and the XC3 blocks and backplates can now be pre-ordered in our shop!


Awesome! Thanks for putting that up. Order placed. Since we don't have final details on the rads... is it correct to assume if they are announced for preorder before the XC3 blocks ship, I can add them to my (XC3) order? 

I'll worry about the backplate later, I assume that is far behind. Like kasca said though, for the XC3 backplate I assume that is a separate listing from the "long version"?

Finally... FTW3... ~February-March at this point?


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Awesome! Thanks for putting that up. Order placed. Since we don't have final details on the rads... is it correct to assume if they are announced for preorder before the XC3 blocks ship, I can add them to my (XC3) order?
> 
> I'll worry about the backplate later, I assume that is far behind. Like kasca said though, for the XC3 backplate I assume that is a separate listing from the "long version"?
> 
> Finally... FTW3... ~February-March at this point?


I hope not. I thought was January lol. February-March seems long. The competitors FTW3 blocks would be out before then


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Please forgive my double post, but I guess that this is relevant information for some of you:
> 
> We renamed the "Zotac Trinity" blocks to "Long version". A PCB layout from Inno3D will also be compatible with this block. Please check our compatibility list (and press ctrl+F5) for all current information.
> Due to your input and demand, we decided to make a dedicated Heatkiller backplate for the XC3 blocks.
> Both the "Long Version" and the XC3 blocks and backplates can now be pre-ordered in our shop!


Hey Jacob...thanks for making he xc3 block and dedicated backplate. I would like to preorder both the xc3 block and backplate but can't find the backplate in the store. Is the xc3 backplate the "long version"


----------



## Grumfuddock

I do like the Heatkiller aesthetic. Interested to see FTW3 blocks when they come out


----------



## djwarreng

Can't wait to preorder both the xc3 waterblock and backplate...I am very excited after jacob's announcement today that watercool will be giving the full heatkiller treatment to the xc3 cards because it is the only card that will fit in my new caselabs bh8 build. Also, I just got my evga 3080 xc3 card today and I am also hoping to get my 3090 xc3 card soon; which is also compatible with the same waterblock. However, all this waiting has me reflecting on why I truly love heatkiller waterblocks. I remember my first experience building a water cooling loop...I consulted dozens of people to learn which products were the highest quality and even the caselabs community recommended heatkiller waterblocks for "bullet proof" quality...there is really nothing that compares except for maybee aquacomputer...but aquacomputer will only do a couple blocks. Really grateful for the consistent quality over the years from heatkiller. I appreciate your attention to detail and that is why I am building my current rig around your 3000 series waterblocks


----------



## haicaramba

djwarreng said:


> Can't wait to preorder both the xc3 waterblock and backplate...I am very excited after jacob's announcement today that watercool will be giving the full heatkiller treatment to the xc3 cards because it is the only card that will fit in my new caselabs bh8 build. Also, I just got my evga 3080 xc3 card today and I am also hoping to get my 3090 xc3 card soon; which is also compatible with the same waterblock. However, all this waiting has me reflecting on why I truly love heatkiller waterblocks. I remember my first experience building a water cooling loop...I consulted dozens of people to learn which products were the highest quality and even the caselabs community recommended heatkiller waterblocks for "bullet proof" quality...there is really nothing that compares except for maybee aquacomputer...but aquacomputer will only do a couple blocks. Really grateful for the consistent quality over the years from heatkiller. I appreciate your attention to detail and that is why I am building my current rig around your 3000 series waterblocks
> 
> 
> View attachment 2467486


That's great! I will be building my first watercooling system and have chosen to go with both Heatkiller CPU and GPU blocks - not just for the aesthetics, but the overwhelming consensus on the quality.

Jakob, first, thank you for being on here and dedicating time in listening to feedback from the community. Add one more person to the list on who is excited for the XC3 backplate! To also add to everyone's confusion, the GPU compatibility PDF for the XC3 backplate has the number 16075. When looking that up on the shop, at the bottom of the description - compatible with and scope of delivery sections says its for the Zotac Trinity.


----------



## paskowitz

haicaramba said:


> That's great! I will be building my first watercooling system and have chosen to go with both Heatkiller CPU and GPU blocks - not just for the aesthetics, but the overwhelming consensus on the quality.


You have chosen wisely. I've had people say "_weeeellll_, does that extra quality _reallly _matter?". Yeah, yeah it does. When the incrEdibly crappy plating on your blocKs fail (even though you cleaned and flushed your loop)... it's a genuinely perturbing experience. When thE acrylic cracKs on your terminal because you tightened a fitting a fraction too much, that sucks. 0 issues with a single Watercool product after I'd say about 4-5 years at this point. Aquacomputer makes great products as well... but unfortunately they are frequently hideous.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

zerone said:


> Sorry if this was answered already, cant find the search thread option in the new layout.
> 
> Are you planning a 3080 FTW3 block as well? Don't see it listed on the website here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waterblocks - GPU GeForce® RTX 3080/3090
> 
> 
> GPU Universal, Backplates, Accessories, Spare Parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de


Yes, we are planning blocks for the RTX 30 FTW layout. No, they are not yet for pre-order or sale. They are currently scheduled for late January.



kacsa said:


> Little confusing.
> You gonna make a dedicated xc3 blackplate later but for now the "long version" is compatible or the "long version" is the dedicated blackplate xc3 blackplate?





djwarreng said:


> Hey Jacob...thanks for making he xc3 block and dedicated backplate. I would like to preorder both the xc3 block and backplate but can't find the backplate in the store. Is the xc3 backplate the "long version"





haicaramba said:


> Jakob, first, thank you for being on here and dedicating time in listening to feedback from the community. Add one more person to the list on who is excited for the XC3 backplate! To also add to everyone's confusion, the GPU compatibility PDF for the XC3 backplate has the number 16075. When looking that up on the shop, at the bottom of the description - compatible with and scope of delivery sections says its for the Zotac Trinity.


ARGL!!! GNARFGRMBLLLL!!!🤬🤯
_breathes_
Okay. So. Turns out, the new shop software does automatically fill in SOME fields of new articles - while NOT filling in certain changes to certain fields nevertheless! How very handy and useful that some changes automatically carry over from the German to the English product page - and others don't! Great, I've learned that the hard way now and made myself look like an idiot for a day. Thanks, new shopsystem.

Anyways: thanks for your feedback, I corrected the articles now IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE SELECTION as well. They are now displayed correctly. Sorry for the confusion.


paskowitz said:


> Awesome! Thanks for putting that up. Order placed. Since we don't have final details on the rads... is it correct to assume if they are announced for preorder before the XC3 blocks ship, I can add them to my (XC3) order?


Yes, you can always add or adjust existing orders. Please send a mail to [email protected] to do so.


----------



## djwarreng

haicaramba said:


> That's great! I will be building my first watercooling system and have chosen to go with both Heatkiller CPU and GPU blocks - not just for the aesthetics, but the overwhelming consensus on the quality.
> 
> Jakob, first, thank you for being on here and dedicating time in listening to feedback from the community. Add one more person to the list on who is excited for the XC3 backplate! To also add to everyone's confusion, the GPU compatibility PDF for the XC3 backplate has the number 16075. When looking that up on the shop, at the bottom of the description - compatible with and scope of delivery sections says its for the Zotac Trinity.


when you get used to heatkiller's quality, it's very hard to go back. Never had a bad experience.


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Jakob said:


> ARGL!!! GNARFGRMBLLLL!!!🤬🤯
> _breathes_
> Okay. So. Turns out, the new shop software does automatically fill in SOME fields of new articles - while NOT filling in certain changes to certain fields nevertheless! How very handy and useful that some changes automatically carry over from the German to the English product page - and others don't! Great, I've learned that the hard way now and made myself look like an idiot for a day. Thanks, new shopsystem.
> 
> Anyways: thanks for your feedback, I corrected the articles now IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE SELECTION as well. They are now displayed correctly. Sorry for the confusion.


Just preordered the xc3 block and backplate. Do you think it will ship before january? Thanks


----------



## D-EJ915

I did get the Xeon Narrow ILM 3647 block recently and it works really well, much better than both the Phanteks or Bitspower equivalent blocks. I think its mounting plate is as wide as specification allows so it is right up against my memory modules in my Gigabyte C621 Aorus Xtreme board however so if you are nervous about those sorts of things just an FYI. The other two are not as wide, I am not sure about the EK models I have not tried them. It does work with the CPU retention bracket as well as the Phanteks and Bitspower blocks, I am unsure about the EK ones.

@Watercool-Jakob Just a question about this block can it be made with the clear acrylic top or nickel like the regular heatkiller IV Pro models?


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

djwarreng said:


> Just preordered the xc3 block and backplate. Do you think it will ship before january? Thanks


No, definitely not! It will most likely be shown shortly before Christmas, but mass production and shipping will start in January.


D-EJ915 said:


> I did get the Xeon Narrow ILM 3647 block recently and it works really well, much better than both the Phanteks or Bitspower equivalent blocks. I think its mounting plate is as wide as specification allows so it is right up against my memory modules in my Gigabyte C621 Aorus Xtreme board however so if you are nervous about those sorts of things just an FYI. The other two are not as wide, I am not sure about the EK models I have not tried them. It does work with the CPU retention bracket as well as the Phanteks and Bitspower blocks, I am unsure about the EK ones.
> 
> @Watercool-Jakob Just a question about this block can it be made with the clear acrylic top or nickel like the regular heatkiller IV Pro models?


Thanks for the praise and the constructive feedback, we appreciate it very much!
No, there is no version with acrylic or metal top. This is primarily an industrial product in our perspective, so we went for materials and designs as industrial customers prefer them.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, definitely not! It will most likely be shown shortly before Christmas, but mass production and shipping will start in January.
> 
> Thanks for the praise and the constructive feedback, we appreciate it very much!
> No, there is no version with acrylic or metal top. This is primarily an industrial product in our perspective, so we went for materials and designs as industrial customers prefer them.


Thanks for all the updates during these times. Patiently will wait for your radiators. Hopefully can combine everything i need into one order including more potential Mo-Ra3 related accessories i need.


----------



## D-EJ915

Watercool-Jakob said:


> No, there is no version with acrylic or metal top. This is primarily an industrial product in our perspective, so we went for materials and designs as industrial customers prefer them.


I kind of figured as much, thanks.


----------



## GAN77

Congratulations on your release! 

We are waiting for a live photo!


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

Not much to say today. I'll let the pics do the talking:



















Symmetrical flow path, flow direction in two layers crossing over each other, superior cooling performance - BOOM!

Have a great weekend, fellas.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,


----------



## chibi

Awe yes, that's what we're talking about. Bring on the goodies!


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Not much to say today. I'll let the pics do the talking:
> 
> View attachment 2467829
> 
> 
> View attachment 2467830
> 
> 
> Symmetrical flow path, flow direction in two layers crossing over each other, superior cooling performance - BOOM!
> 
> Have a great weekend, fellas.


Very interesting


----------



## Eulerian

If I am to be honest, for my own tastes, I'm not in love with the look. I preferred the more hard-angle aesthetic of the previous gen. I get more of an Aquacomputer vibe from the rounded lines. Just my opinion though, I may be in the minority.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Eulerian said:


> If I am to be honest, for my own tastes, I'm not in love with the look. I preferred the more hard-angle aesthetic of the previous gen. I get more of an Aquacomputer vibe from the rounded lines. Just my opinion though, I may be in the minority.


I got an AC vibe as well, though I won't doubt these as being the better performers. I'm curious as to what they'll look like with black faceplates rather than chrome faceplates.


...I might try and photoshop it.

I think they look good. I didn't mind the AC block design either. The only one I loathe is the Johnny 5 block; Alphacool's.


----------



## chibi

Eulerian said:


> If I am to be honest, for my own tastes, I'm not in love with the look. I preferred the more hard-angle aesthetic of the previous gen. I get more of an Aquacomputer vibe from the rounded lines. Just my opinion though, I may be in the minority.


I personally love it! It's a nice change compared to previous hard lines. I had the Titan Xp block and this one will look amazing with my upcoming FTW3 build. 

I had an Aquacomputer 1080 Ti block with the active backplate and there was definitely fitment issues with the direct memory contact, and questionable thermal pad sizes. There was some parts where the thermal pad was too thin and wasn't even making contact with the block. The active backplate imo, is kind of gimicky but the results do show improvement compared to passive backplate just for the vrm area.

Overall from both experiences, I would go with Heatkiller as the fitment is spot on with no major gaps and I prefer the full over block design overall.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Okay I photoshopped it.

I think it looks great with the black! Can't wait to see more photos of the actual blocks Jakob


----------



## MageTank

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Not much to say today. I'll let the pics do the talking:
> 
> View attachment 2467829
> 
> 
> View attachment 2467830
> 
> 
> Symmetrical flow path, flow direction in two layers crossing over each other, superior cooling performance - BOOM!
> 
> Have a great weekend, fellas.


This is exactly what I've been waiting on, the copper version looks absolutely stunning. Is it easy to remove the RGB cable? I have a pure steel/copper build coming up with no RGB elements and I'd like to avoid having the cable hang out if at all possible.

Thank you for the pictures!


----------



## deme

WOW


LiquidHaus said:


> Okay I photoshopped it.
> 
> I think it looks great with the black! Can't wait to see more photos of the actual blocks Jakob


Wow, that looks sexy!


----------



## Jokesterwild

Well thats horrendous. Great job. You went from the best blocks to the worst.


----------



## MageTank

Jokesterwild said:


> Well thats horrendous. Great job. You went from the best blocks to the worst.


I like it myself, though I can definitely see why some might not. Is it the shape of the plexi panel that bothers you? Or just the overall aesthetics in general?


----------



## DaLiu

I don't know why but I really like the SE ones from EK, i know, quality wise, EK is not great but as look, these I found them really nice and more than double in price.


----------



## paskowitz

Certainly not going to change my order... but... pulling no punches... it's definitely not as aesthetically attractive as the 2000 series blocks (seems to be the prevailing consensus). Now, a lot of that is probably due to the stubby size of the partner reference PCB and the new flow path. There is less space to do anything with and aesthetics have to follow engineering, not the other way around. With that said... in my not educated, no real world awareness of design implications, but with that said big fan of Watercool products, view... these are my very long winded thoughts...

Since the 900 series HK blocks have always had angled sides to the cover plate. The 2000 series had that little angled cover plate and 2 long acrylic runs along side it. For me, those were really unique and attractive design elements that instantly made HK blocks stand out from other brands. The 2000 series especially.










For the 3000 series, both those elements are no longer present. Is the design still recognizable? Yes, but the longer angles and lines are no longer present (obviously in part due to the shorter PCB). Also, I think the right LED / Ampere element doesn't match the rest of lines. IMO, the flat, sharp fall off on the 900-2000 series was cleaner. This is pretty clear when you compare the lines of the 2 generations. Perhaps more than the angles of the acrylic window, this part really throws things off visually. If possible, I would ditch this part.









TBH, I don't think there is a "better" route though. About the only thing I would do is cover the o-rings so their curves don't clash with the angles of the cover... but this adds another parallel angled element to each side and kinks the bottom. 1 step forward, .5 steps back.










Let's just assume the PCB sizes are similar so that's not an implication (so that would be reference long/XC3). For those cards, I would try (IDK if it would work IRL) to take this approach. I'm absolutely not a Ps wizard so this is very rough. But the general idea is, keep the lines that run across the cover plate (which visually lengthen the card), and integrate the floating cover plate element. Keep each side of the acrylic roughly similar in terms of angles. I would also reduce the prominence of the LED/Ampere element or just make it a hard edge like the previous blocks. Mostly hidden o-rings.









That's my 2 cents for whatever it's worth. I'm still excited for these blocks and perhaps outside of the EK FE block, these are the best looking around (EK/Bits/Alphacool/etc are all just slabs of acrylic and Aquacomputer has an unnatural love for *LETTERING*). We'll see what the XC3 and FTW3 bring.


----------



## Jokesterwild

MageTank said:


> I like it myself, though I can definitely see why some might not. Is it the shape of the plexi panel that bothers you? Or just the overall aesthetics in general?


What the above just laid out essentially


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Not much to say today. I'll let the pics do the talking:
> 
> View attachment 2467829
> 
> 
> View attachment 2467830
> 
> 
> Symmetrical flow path, flow direction in two layers crossing over each other, superior cooling performance - BOOM!
> 
> Have a great weekend, fellas.


Sadly, I will most likely have to cancel my preorder. the extra length added to the end of the block with the rgb element will most likely cause the block to be too long for my build...I only have 3-4mm of space after the length of the xc3 pcb...do you know how long the rgb element is? this would be a huge dissapointment


----------



## Eulerian

Completely agree with @paskowitz


----------



## jura11

No waterblock for Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC @Watercool-Jakob ? 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## NewType88

I like the previous design better too. If I WC my ftw3 Im still going to get this brand though. Copper and black !

Looks like you can screw the RGB thing off ?

Can the lights do a true WHITE and not the RGB fakery ?


----------



## Felgor

I like the previous aesthetic better too, but still like the new one. The PCB layout and size obviously impact what can be done, and the 2x8pin connectors right on the edge don't help, and the PCB is heaps taller. Adding cutouts near the IO shield would make it ugly with the DP/HDMI connectors being visible imo.


----------



## GAN77

What will an active backplate look?


----------



## rioja

Hi, am I correct that 3080 blocks will be available only for these cards - reference, EVGA XC3, Zotac Trinity?


----------



## haicaramba

Noticed the reference and Zotac blocks have their measurements listed - when can we expect to know for the XC3?


----------



## paskowitz

haicaramba said:


> Noticed the reference and Zotac blocks have their measurements listed - when can we expect to know for the XC3?


If you find the length of the Zotac PCB, subtract the difference between that and the HK block, and then add that to the size of the XC3 PCB length.


----------



## Biggu

Curious to the locations of the water inlets / outlets? my case has been drilled for the outlets of the hydrocopper and im curious to see how terrible the holes will line up .


----------



## ppkstat

What happened to the XC3 acetal versions? All I can see in the website is acrylic, have you changed your mind in making them?


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Paint it black.


----------



## Felgor

@Watercool-Jakob Will you be making 6900XT reference blocks too? In Aus, 6900XT reference price looks to be similar to some 3080 AIB's.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

MageTank said:


> This is exactly what I've been waiting on, the copper version looks absolutely stunning. Is it easy to remove the RGB cable? I have a pure steel/copper build coming up with no RGB elements and I'd like to avoid having the cable hang out if at all possible.
> 
> Thank you for the pictures!


Yes, removing the LED strip is really simple! It is directly accessible under the steel front cover.
The copper versions come without LEDs, anyways.


paskowitz said:


> Certainly not going to change my order... but... pulling no punches... it's definitely not as aesthetically attractive as the 2000 series blocks (seems to be the prevailing consensus). Now, a lot of that is probably due to the stubby size of the partner reference PCB and the new flow path. There is less space to do anything with and aesthetics have to follow engineering, not the other way around. With that said... in my not educated, no real world awareness of design implications, but with that said big fan of Watercool products, view... these are my very long winded thoughts...
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Since the 900 series HK blocks have always had angled sides to the cover plate. The 2000 series had that little angled cover plate and 2 long acrylic runs along side it. For me, those were really unique and attractive design elements that instantly made HK blocks stand out from other brands. The 2000 series especially.
> 
> View attachment 2467873
> 
> 
> For the 3000 series, both those elements are no longer present. Is the design still recognizable? Yes, but the longer angles and lines are no longer present (obviously in part due to the shorter PCB). Also, I think the right LED / Ampere element doesn't match the rest of lines. IMO, the flat, sharp fall off on the 900-2000 series was cleaner. This is pretty clear when you compare the lines of the 2 generations. Perhaps more than the angles of the acrylic window, this part really throws things off visually. If possible, I would ditch this part.
> View attachment 2467876
> 
> 
> TBH, I don't think there is a "better" route though. About the only thing I would do is cover the o-rings so their curves don't clash with the angles of the cover... but this adds another parallel angled element to each side and kinks the bottom. 1 step forward, .5 steps back.
> View attachment 2467881
> 
> 
> 
> Let's just assume the PCB sizes are similar so that's not an implication (so that would be reference long/XC3). For those cards, I would try (IDK if it would work IRL) to take this approach. I'm absolutely not a Ps wizard so this is very rough. But the general idea is, keep the lines that run across the cover plate (which visually lengthen the card), and integrate the floating cover plate element. Keep each side of the acrylic roughly similar in terms of angles. I would also reduce the prominence of the LED/Ampere element or just make it a hard edge like the previous blocks. Mostly hidden o-rings.
> View attachment 2467887
> 
> 
> That's my 2 cents for whatever it's worth. I'm still excited for these blocks and perhaps outside of the EK FE block, these are the best looking around (EK/Bits/Alphacool/etc are all just slabs of acrylic and Aquacomputer has an unnatural love for *LETTERING*). We'll see what the XC3 and FTW3 bring.


Thanks for the feedback. I'll try to explain some of the key decisions in the development process.
One of the main flaws of the separatable terminal has always been that the passageway from the terminal to the block itself is very narrow. This is one of the major flow restrictive factors in GPU water blocks. So one of our main goals was to open up more area for the passageway. This resulted in the Dual Layer layout: by stacking in- and outlet above each other into top and colplate separately, instead of placing them next to each other both in the cold plate, we were able to increase the square area for in- and outlet by over 30%, each. This obviously reduces flow restriction.
Further down the flow path, we decided to use the central split flow design: the flow splits in the cooling engine above the GPU, and then flows symmetrically over the left and right side of the block, to be combined back at the outlet. All channels are rounded out, as the natural flow characteristic of liquids prefers round corners, instead of sharp edges. There are also no more sharp 180° turns, which are additional flow brakes. All of these measures combined reduced the overall flow restriction dramatically! Up to a point where we were able to increase the fin area on the GPU AND reduce the thinness of the channels in the cooling engine, which obviously increases cooling performance.
When these functional aspects were set, it came to design: we wanted to emphasize the symmetrical structure of the block. This is why the window is not angled or tilted as the previous generations, but rectangular (with two slight angled corners for looks).
Regarding o-rings: this comes down to personal taste, we don't find visible o-rings as unattractive as you seemingly do. 
Regarding the long lines running to the edge of the card: these came to being because of the long cold plate on the RTX 20 cards. We had the extra copper and wanted to show it. On RTX 30, there are no relevant components that require cooling in that area of the card, so we do not lengthen the copper artificially to cover that area. So making cutouts in the cover would only make the PCB visible - which is something that we DO consider unattractive. So no, we will not add those long runs.

Regarding the POM part: first of all, this has nothing to do with LEDs. our LEDs run along the bottom of the block over the full length of the window. That POM block serves two functions: an aesthetical one and a functional one.
Because of the high capacitors on this card, we had to use a very thick piece of copper: 10mm. this means that in the rear end of the card, there is a 10mm gap between the PCB and the top. The top is essentially floating above the PCB. This doesn't look good, so we added the POM backpiece to close the gap visually and give the block a nice and even finish at the end of the card. But also, there are no mounting holes in the end of the PCB - both the block and the backplate would wiggle around without any fixation on this sector of the card. So the POM block also eliminates this problem: the block and the backplate both screw in evenly into the POM part, so that both have a tight and firm grip, and nothing is loose. The edge of the PCB is completely hidden, and there is a nice finish in one style on the end of the card.



jura11 said:


> No waterblock for Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC @Watercool-Jakob ?
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Nope, we do not plan to support this card.


NewType88 said:


> I like the previous design better too. If I WC my ftw3 Im still going to get this brand though. Copper and black !
> 
> Looks like you can screw the RGB thing off ?
> 
> Can the lights do a true WHITE and not the RGB fakery ?


Technically, you can screw the POM part off, yes. This doesn't really make sense, though, see above.
No, there are no white LEDs, it is an adressable RGB strip.


rioja said:


> Hi, am I correct that 3080 blocks will be available only for these cards - reference, EVGA XC3, Zotac Trinity?


No. Please check HTTP://gpu.watercool.de for a full list of compatible cards.


ppkstat said:


> What happened to the XC3 acetal versions? All I can see in the website is acrylic, have you changed your mind in making them?


We do not and never have planned acetal versions for XC3.


ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Paint it black.


A version with black front screen is available.


Felgor said:


> @Watercool-Jakob Will you be making 6900XT reference blocks too? In Aus, 6900XT reference price looks to be similar to some 3080 AIB's.


Yes, we plan blocks for 6800, 6800XT and 6900XT reference cards. They are scheduled for a release in January.
No, we do not plan to make any blocks for non-reference Radeon 6000 cards currently.


----------



## GAN77

Watercool-Jakob

Will the active backplate for the partner reference 3090 be released for sale?


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I'll try to explain some of the key decisions in the development process.


I really appreciate the detailed reply. All that makes sense. I think the engineering side is great and like I said, comes first. Like with a sports car, the designer has to work with what the engineers give him/her.

Purely taking the design at face value... Obviously people choose Heatkiller blocks because of their performance, quality, reliability, comparatively reasonable cost, etc etc... but I think the biggest reason, across the spectrum, is that other brands are just dreadfully bland or ugly (particularly GPU blocks) and Heatkiller blocks stand out from the heard. It seems, on balance, people sense a bit of that has been lost. The new design is just not as comparatively distinct/novel as the previous generations.This is probably the first Watercool design I've seen that hasn't been (nearly) unanimously praised. It's subtle, but clearly meaningful.

IDK what the practical or cost implications would be, but one solution to "not showing the PCB" (which I do agree is not a good look) but still doing something with that right area would be to simply apply a thin layer of mirrored (nickel version) or just black (copper version) acrylic under the main piece that goes over the exposed PCB. Or instead of continuing the cold plate, just a correspondingly finished piece of metal that affixes to the main acrylic piece from the bottom. This way you have an opportunity to do something on the face of the cover (while not wasting a big chunk of copper).

Regardless of my view, I hope others see things differently and the product does well.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Yes, removing the LED strip is really simple! It is directly accessible under the steel front cover.
> The copper versions come without LEDs, anyways.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I'll try to explain some of the key decisions in the development process.
> One of the main flaws of the separatable terminal has always been that the passageway from the terminal to the block itself is very narrow. This is one of the major flow restrictive factors in GPU water blocks. So one of our main goals was to open up more area for the passageway. This resulted in the Dual Layer layout: by stacking in- and outlet above each other into top and colplate separately, instead of placing them next to each other both in the cold plate, we were able to increase the square area for in- and outlet by over 30%, each. This obviously reduces flow restriction.
> Further down the flow path, we decided to use the central split flow design: the flow splits in the cooling engine above the GPU, and then flows symmetrically over the left and right side of the block, to be combined back at the outlet. All channels are rounded out, as the natural flow characteristic of liquids prefers round corners, instead of sharp edges. There are also no more sharp 180° turns, which are additional flow brakes. All of these measures combined reduced the overall flow restriction dramatically! Up to a point where we were able to increase the fin area on the GPU AND reduce the thinness of the channels in the cooling engine, which obviously increases cooling performance.
> When these functional aspects were set, it came to design: we wanted to emphasize the symmetrical structure of the block. This is why the window is not angled or tilted as the previous generations, but rectangular (with two slight angled corners for looks).
> Regarding o-rings: this comes down to personal taste, we don't find visible o-rings as unattractive as you seemingly do.
> Regarding the long lines running to the edge of the card: these came to being because of the long cold plate on the RTX 20 cards. We had the extra copper and wanted to show it. On RTX 30, there are no relevant components that require cooling in that area of the card, so we do not lengthen the copper artificially to cover that area. So making cutouts in the cover would only make the PCB visible - which is something that we DO consider unattractive. So no, we will not add those long runs.
> 
> Regarding the POM part: first of all, this has nothing to do with LEDs. our LEDs run along the bottom of the block over the full length of the window. That POM block serves two functions: an aesthetical one and a functional one.
> Because of the high capacitors on this card, we had to use a very thick piece of copper: 10mm. this means that in the rear end of the card, there is a 10mm gap between the PCB and the top. The top is essentially floating above the PCB. This doesn't look good, so we added the POM backpiece to close the gap visually and give the block a nice and even finish at the end of the card. But also, there are no mounting holes in the end of the PCB - both the block and the backplate would wiggle around without any fixation on this sector of the card. So the POM block also eliminates this problem: the block and the backplate both screw in evenly into the POM part, so that both have a tight and firm grip, and nothing is loose. The edge of the PCB is completely hidden, and there is a nice finish in one style on the end of the card.
> 
> 
> Nope, we do not plan to support this card.
> 
> Technically, you can screw the POM part off, yes. This doesn't really make sense, though, see above.
> No, there are no white LEDs, it is an adressable RGB strip.
> 
> No. Please check HTTP://gpu.watercool.de for a full list of compatible cards.
> 
> We do not and never have planned acetal versions for XC3.
> 
> A version with black front screen is available.
> 
> Yes, we plan blocks for 6800, 6800XT and 6900XT reference cards. They are scheduled for a release in January.
> No, we do not plan to make any blocks for non-reference Radeon 6000 cards currently.


Thank you for the detailed information. Looks like gathering more items to order and will be putting in an local group order once the gpu block and radiator are both out.


----------



## Watercool-Jakob

On a personal note:
I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.

As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.

I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.

My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.

WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> On a personal note:
> I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.
> 
> As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.
> 
> I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.
> 
> My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.
> 
> WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


Godspeed & good luck with your future endeavors.


----------



## Felgor

Watercool-Jakob said:


> On a personal note:
> I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.
> 
> As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.
> 
> I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.
> 
> My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.
> 
> WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


Thank you for letting us know and I hope you go far in your next venture.

You have really been the face of Watercool and I can blame you for indirectly influencing my decision to go Watercool for everything in my current build. I hope this thread gets the same attention once you leave.

Take care.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Jakob said:


> On a personal note:
> I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.
> 
> As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.
> 
> I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.
> 
> My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.
> 
> WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


Wish you luck and thank you for your many years of service to the community


----------



## Bart

Section31 said:


> Wish you luck and thank you for your many years of service to the community


Very much this!! Jakob you have provided excellent forum support during your tenure, and I hope Rico realizes that you were a key part in a lot of us becoming Watercool supporters. The excellent hardware is only one aspect of the brand, but having support like you guys is arguably a more important aspect, and you have represented the company incredibly well. You will be missed!


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Jakob said:


> On a personal note:
> I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.
> 
> As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.
> 
> I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.
> 
> My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.
> 
> WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


Best of luck to you Jakob. You were an awesome rep and will be missed!


----------



## paskowitz

I echo everyone's sentiments. Thank you for being a great rep and we wish you all the best on your future endeavors.


----------



## chibi

All the best to you and your fam jam Jakob. Was a pleasure working with you throughout the years as Watercool has been choice for a few of my builds.


----------



## DaLiu

Still no news about the new radiators?


----------



## Biggu

Watercool-Jakob said:


> On a personal note:
> I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.
> 
> As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.
> 
> I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.
> 
> My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.
> 
> WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


Wish you nothing but the best in your future endeavors!


----------



## JasonMorris

All the best Jakob and thanks for the excellent service you have provided over the years.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Watercool-Jakob You’ll be missed, this thread won’t be the same without you. Best wishes.
Whoever replaces you will have big shoes to fill


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Still no news about the new radiators?


Nothing. I think will be 2021 before we see anything.


----------



## broodro0ster

It's sad to see you go, but good luck Jacob with your future education/job! I hope Watercool knows what you've done for them and try to find an equal replacement.
Thank you for all the support and listening to our ideas.
And thanks to you and this thread, I became a Watercool customer. Now I'm patiently waiting on the EVGA 3080 XC3 block and black plate


----------



## Ironsmack

I'll miss your helpful, useful information/advice @Watercool-Jakob. Good luck to you with your endeavors and stay safe man


----------



## EniGma1987

@Watercool-Jakob Thank you for all the hard work you have put in over the years. I wish you luck with wherever the future takes you.


----------



## jvillaveces

Jakob, you will be missed here. You have been an asset to the community and to Watercool. Best of luck with your future endeavors!


----------



## djwarreng

heads up fellas...some new images live at shop.watercool.de


----------



## Hequaqua

Does the block orientation make a difference?


----------



## paskowitz

Nickel Black looks decent.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Nickel Black looks decent.


It does. Heatkiller Black Nickel Block always looked really nice.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Copper/ black wish it had a copper jet plate too though


----------



## EniGma1987

Has anyone else from the US ordered from the new website? It looks like the new store does not format US addresses correctly, and put the street address in the wrong format and does not allow selecting the State it is going to. Anyone had an issue with this yet?


----------



## djwarreng

EniGma1987 said:


> Has anyone else from the US ordered from the new website? It looks like the new store does not format US addresses correctly, and put the street address in the wrong format and does not allow selecting the State it is going to. Anyone had an issue with this yet?


I placed a preorder to the US and sent an email to support about the incorrect address formatting issue. They just launched the new website, so I'm assuming they're aware there are some bugs


----------



## NOFX

ThrashZone said:


> Hi,
> Copper/ black wish it had a copper jet plate too though


Hello!
Do you think 
HEATKILLER® IV PRO (AMD PROCESSOR) BLACK COPPER
is great for new Ryzen 5900X and 5950X?


----------



## ThrashZone

NOFX said:


> Hello!
> Do you think
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (AMD PROCESSOR) BLACK COPPER
> is great for new Ryzen 5900X and 5950X?


Hi,
I don't know anything about amd blocks I only have intel.


----------



## Section31

NOFX said:


> Hello!
> Do you think
> HEATKILLER® IV PRO (AMD PROCESSOR) BLACK COPPER
> is great for new Ryzen 5900X and 5950X?


The best source is heisen.de review of techn am4 block and igorslab review. Found in techn page. Add 10degrees on top of full load to get max temp.


----------



## NOFX

Section31 said:


> The best source is heisen.de review of techn am4 block and igorslab review. Found in techn page. Add 10degrees on top of full load to get max temp.


Thank you 👍


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Good luck Jakob!


----------



## J7SC

Watercool-Jakob said:


> On a personal note:
> I will leave Watercool on 12/31/2020. My last working day will be this Friday, December 11th.
> 
> As some of you know, I have always been working remotely for most time of the month. This arrangement worked out pretty well for several years. But this year with Corona lockdowns, it became quite difficult to really perform well, especially as I had two small children at home with me over several months. Secondly, the restructuring process at Watercool moves along quite satisfactorily. We will become more productive and efficient. But the new structures and processes made it increasingly difficult to loop me in remotely. And finally, the remote work and many business trips became more and more of a burden on my private life and my family. So Rico (CEO of WATERCOOL) and I sat down together and agreed to end my employment at Watercool.
> 
> I will be eternally grateful to Rico for giving me a chance to leave my old career path and start over again at WATERCOOL almost 5 years ago, despite having no previous professional experience in this line of work. I always enjoyed working in the company, but especially in and for this community. Even when you sometimes almost drove me crazy with your questions, it has always been my greatest pleasure and honor to wear the Watercool - W and represent the brand.
> 
> My personal perspective is that I want to get back to get some education and a proper degree. Depending on what and how I can finance it, I want to get more theoretical knowledge about all the things I've been mostly winging for the last five years.
> 
> WATERCOOL will continue to monitor this thread.


Thank you for your great support over the years, and all the best in your future endeavors !


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Still no news about the new radiators?


Have to e-mail them


----------



## Liquid4rt

Ordered the new Heatkiller V block for my rtx 3090 reference but unfortunately i missed the deadline for posting! Have to wait till after 04/01/2021 now before it can be dispatched... so gutted 












Can't wait to switch out the Alphacool block for it.


----------



## EniGma1987

Liquid4rt said:


> Ordered the new Heatkiller V block for my rtx 3090 reference but unfortunately i missed the deadline for posting! Have to wait till after 04/01/2021 now before it can be dispatched... so gutted


Not a big deal, FedEx seems to have stopped operations either for covid or holiday anyway. My block shipped a while ago and it has just been sitting in Frankfurt for over a week now. FedEx loves to twist the knife too, updating tracking over and over to keep telling me "hey we havent moved it at all!"


----------



## Liquid4rt

EniGma1987 said:


> Not a big deal, FedEx seems to have stopped operations either for covid or holiday anyway. My blocked shipped a while ago and it has just been sitting in Frankfurt for over a week now. FedEx loves to twist the knife too, updating tracking over and over to keep telling me "hey we havent moved it at all!"


Not looking forward to that then... In the UK with the brexit crap i can see this being delayed even further especially with the whole shipping port fiasco recently.


----------



## NOFX

EniGma1987 said:


> Not a big deal, FedEx seems to have stopped operations either for covid or holiday anyway. My block shipped a while ago and it has just been sitting in Frankfurt for over a week now. FedEx loves to twist the knife too, updating tracking over and over to keep telling me "hey we havent moved it at all!"


Yeah, the covid did a lot of harm in all areas!


----------



## Section31

Going forward, i expect this thread to become like the Aquacomputer one. If we want up to date information from Heatkiller, just e-mail them. It's going to be difficult to plan builds when there's good chance we get the like Aquacomputer Surprise Launch of New Product going forward.


----------



## Rangerscott

Wish I could find a pro IV all Ni copper for 2066 under $85 here in the US.


----------



## Liquid4rt

NOFX said:


> Yeah, the covid did a lot of harm in all areas!


I think for us in the UK, it had more to do with the Brexit deal than covid tbh. Now that we have a deal, lets see how things really pan out cos tbh i dont have a good feeling about it...


----------



## Pedros

Hello to all,
I'm starting a project of an external "water box" and MO-RA3 was one of the solutions for this. Meanwhile, it came to my attention that Watercool may update the MO-RA3 soon. 

Is there any specific information about this, anything about timelines?

Thank you so much,
Pedro S.


----------



## Chiraq

I just installed my Heatkiller IV PRO on a 3700x and I must say both the quality and performance is really good. If anyone remembers FstFrddy Stinger V8 thats the one I'm comparing it to and for now all the Heakiller IV lacks to that is that second exhaust barb.


----------



## Section31

Pedros said:


> Hello to all,
> I'm starting a project of an external "water box" and MO-RA3 was one of the solutions for this. Meanwhile, it came to my attention that Watercool may update the MO-RA3 soon.
> 
> Is there any specific information about this, anything about timelines?
> 
> Thank you so much,
> Pedro S.


Jakob is no longer around so i doubt the rep will answer these questions. If you must ask, please e-mail them at this point.


----------



## DaLiu

wrong post


----------



## EniGma1987

@DaLiu and why are you posting new Aquacomputer products in a Heatkiller thread? Another user posted the exact same thing as you in the 3090 thread, are you a spam bot account or paid by Aquacomputer?


----------



## DaLiu

No, im not, sorry for posting that here, my mistake.


----------



## Rebeleleven

Hey all. 

Does anyone have a good idea on how much liquid the Mo-Ra 3 420 holds? Trying to estimate how much coolant to pick up before it arrives.


----------



## CantingSoup

Rebeleleven said:


> Hey all.
> 
> Does anyone have a good idea on how much liquid the Mo-Ra 3 420 holds? Trying to estimate how much coolant to pick up before it arrives.


I used a 3.76L jug of distilled water in mine and finished filling it with just under half of it left, so I’d say it holds around 1.9-2L.


----------



## paskowitz

Now would sure be a good time to show off that FTW3 block... competition is getting spicy. No XC3 pics is more immediately concerning though. Little over a week away from the stated availability date.


----------



## djwarreng

paskowitz said:


> Now would sure be a good time to show off that FTW3 block... competition is getting spicy. No XC3 pics is more immediately concerning though. Little over a week away from the stated availability date.


that actually looks amazing


----------



## Section31

djwarreng said:


> that actually looks amazing


Wish Pricing would be more competitive though lol.


----------



## Bart

I'd wait on performance numbers too. Aquacomputer have a history of making pretty things that don't perform as well as their competition.


----------



## D-EJ915

Bart said:


> I'd wait on performance numbers too. Aquacomputer have a history of making pretty things that don't perform as well as their competition.


Their 2080 Ti block was one of the best when igorslab compared them so wonder if this will continue that. I've never really paid attention to them before so not sure how they used to be so that is interesting.


----------



## DaLiu

I'm wondering if Heatkiller still have those radiators in the pipeline or ...


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> I'm wondering if Heatkiller still have those radiators in the pipeline or ...


Its still coming out. Last heard this month.


----------



## DaLiu

I need to buy some new radiators this month so i have to decide if i wait for Heatkillers or im going for Black Ice Nemesis.


----------



## Pedros

i was in the same position. I decided to go with nemesis because if we keep waiting for everything that’s coming without having a deadline.... can be frustrating


----------



## paskowitz

I had to get with HWL as well. I've got all my parts and I can't continue to delay for months. Gotta draw a line at some point.


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> I need to buy some new radiators this month so i have to decide if i wait for Heatkillers or im going for Black Ice Nemesis.


Up to you. I don’t expect any performance difference vs gts. Gts will be cheaper too but its more i want something different as i have owned gts before


----------



## Rebeleleven

Hey guys. Does anyone know, for the Mo-Ra Dual pump mount, which hole is the inlet and which is the outlet? I'm used to there being arrows, markings, something...

My mount also seems to be reversed from product pictures? Not sure.


----------



## tarkus33

Sorry to be that guy but anyone heard of any updates for the 3080 FTW3 block?


----------



## GAN77

Rebeleleven said:


> My mount also seems to be reversed from product pictures? Not sure.


----------



## paskowitz

tarkus33 said:


> Sorry to be that guy but anyone heard of any updates for the 3080 FTW3 block?


Watercool's twitter said "If nothing goes wrong it will launch by the end of january". Given that we don't even have an image of the XC3 block 5 days from it's "stated" (on website) availability date... I'm not holding my breath. Months of delays has made me pretty jaded at this point.


----------



## tarkus33

paskowitz said:


> Watercool's twitter said "If nothing goes wrong it will launch by the end of january". Given that we don't even have an image of the XC3 block 5 days from it's "stated" (on website) availability date... I'm not holding my breath. Months of delays has made me pretty jaded at this point.


Yep I'm close to giving up and just getting the Bykski block, probably not a day and night difference in terms of performance although I'm not sure.


----------



## Section31

tarkus33 said:


> Yep I'm close to giving up and just getting the Bykski block, probably not a day and night difference in terms of performance although I'm not sure.


I hear the ekwb are say 5 degrees higher than the optimus. So that’s probably the range you are looking at. I am guessing heatkiller/optimus/aquacomputer are very close to each other overall.


----------



## Section31

tarkus33 said:


> Sorry to be that guy but anyone heard of any updates for the 3080 FTW3 block?


Also you have to email them for responses now.


----------



## ging

Rebeleleven said:


> Hey guys. Does anyone know, for the Mo-Ra Dual pump mount, which hole is the inlet and which is the outlet? I'm used to there being arrows, markings, something...
> 
> My mount also seems to be reversed from product pictures? Not sure.
> 
> View attachment 2473466


Pretty sure pump 2 is inlet, with pump 1 as outlet.

Inlet port usually goes to the centre of the pump, and impeller spins it outwards to the sides.

You'll need to flip both your dual pump top and reservoir to match Watercool's setup for easier fitting routing.


----------



## Felgor

I emailed WC to check on my 3080 reference block, delays on Barrow fittings were holding up the shipping. I cancelled the out of stock fittings so I should have the block in 1 to 2 weeks...depending on Germany to Australia shipping delays.

Currently limited by heat and then power on this Galax 3080 SG. Hopefully the much better cooling and a bios change will let me see a stable 2000+ mhz core clock.

Ill post results, 1080mm of heatkiller rad space built for silence.


----------



## Liquid4rt

I got a email reply from watercool yesterday regarding delays sending orders to UK due to covid. Basically the delivery companies have stopped delivery to UK, but got another reply today that they should resume deliveries in the next few days! Fingers crossed!


----------



## Chiraq

I'm getting real tired of the delivery excusers. I would just shop elsewhere. I drop all companies making that excuse on a regular basis. They all need something to keep them on their toes, whats better than customers shopping elsewhere because they don't try hard enough.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Chiraq said:


> I'm getting real tired of the delivery excusers. I would just shop elsewhere. I drop all companies making that excuse on a regular basis. They all need something to keep them on their toes, whats better than customers shopping elsewhere because they don't try hard enough.


Problem is, i can't buy the heatkiller V block from anywhere else other than from the main supplier. Thats for the UK anyway, dont know about the rest of europe... this really sucks!


----------



## Shawnb99

Chiraq said:


> I'm getting real tired of the delivery excusers. I would just shop elsewhere. I drop all companies making that excuse on a regular basis. They all need something to keep them on their toes, whats better than customers shopping elsewhere because they don't try hard enough.



It’s not like there is still a pandemic on or anything. They just don’t “try” hard enough. Lol 🙄


----------



## Liquid4rt

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s not like there is still a pandemic on or anything. They just don’t “try” hard enough. Lol 🙄


Worlds gone to proper ****, i can't see it getting better any time soon. All thats missing is world war 3 lol.


----------



## Avacado

Liquid4rt said:


> All thats missing is world war 3 lol.


Not gonna have to wait long for that one brother.


----------



## Chiraq

Shawnb99 said:


> It’s not like there is still a pandemic on or anything. They just don’t “try” hard enough. Lol 🙄


I know theres a pandemic. Thats not the problem for companies in the hardware and pc enthusiast segment. The problem is all the companies using the pandemic as an opportunity to cut costs. Example: Buying just about anything from Amazon for me this christmas didnt take a day longer now than a year ago. Pandemic doesnt affect them. Ebay then? Or the regular pc parts pusher in my country? No delays there. 

So yes they don't try hard enough. 

Some areas of business do suffer from the pandemic, the software and hardware market does not. They just increase their profits. 

But I feel your pain Liquid4rt, it's a good waterblock. Is it good enough to keep waiting for though. I dunno if it's that much better cooling than other chunk of metal type of blocks out there.


----------



## Section31

Chiraq said:


> I know theres a pandemic. Thats not the problem for companies in the hardware and pc enthusiast segment. The problem is all the companies using the pandemic as an opportunity to cut costs. Example: Buying just about anything from Amazon for me this christmas didnt take a day longer now than a year ago. Pandemic doesnt affect them. Ebay then? Or the regular pc parts pusher in my country? No delays there.
> 
> So yes they don't try hard enough.
> 
> Some areas of business do suffer from the pandemic, the software and hardware market does not. They just increase their profits.
> 
> But I feel your pain Liquid4rt, it's a good waterblock. Is it good enough to keep waiting for though. I dunno if it's that much better cooling than other chunk of metal type of blocks out there.


It's most waiting for everything. You are waiting for shipping, whole bunch of us are waiting for them to announce those new radiators lol. Just be glad scalpers haven't caught onto the waterblock fight issues on high end or they would be coming in. As i have been saying in Optimus Thread, how would you take waiting into 6months for an Yamaha Mini-Grand Electric Piano to ship from Japan and I'm still chasing down beyond customs (south africa) for my custom sleeved cables (running into couple months already).


----------



## paskowitz

End of the day, I just wish companies would realize it's a better strategy to underpromise and over deliver in uncertain times. In my opinion, trusting what a company says is more important than the positivity or negativity of what they say.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> End of the day, I just wish companies would realize it's a better strategy to underpromise and over deliver in uncertain times. In my opinion, trusting what a company says is more important than the positivity or negativity of what they say.


I get you and we all want our things quicker but we really can't do much about it. There are always people in worst situation than you atm, etc. Try to stay think positive and we will get through over this logistics and supply crisis.


----------



## jura11

Liquid4rt said:


> Problem is, i can't buy the heatkiller V block from anywhere else other than from the main supplier. Thats for the UK anyway, dont know about the rest of europe... this really sucks!


Add to pain Brexit and VAT, import charges and Royal Mail/DPD/FedEx fees which you will need to pay as well, ordered something from EU recently and got fees to pay, for item which cost me £35 I paid £25 in VAT and import taxes etc

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Wanted to get some opinions before I have an expensive mistake. 

Fluid I am using is Distilled Water and Mayhems Biocide + and Corrosion Inhibitor + with a typical drain/flush/fill every 4-6mo. Blitz 2 whenever I replace a CPU or GPU block. Considering adding Monsoon Economy V2 Hardline fittings to the loop as I like the esthetic of them. My concern they are either silver plated or silver plated with a clear coat. 

Is this a mixed metal issue where I should be concerned? Current Loop I am concerned about: D5 Next Pump, Several XSPC and Bitspower Black Chrome/Sparkle extensions/fittings and ball valve, 3x Hardware labs radiators (Cleaned with Blitz 1&2), Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper CPU Block and Heatkiller GPU Block that are both Nickel Plated Copper, Res is acrylic distro panel, PETG hard tube. 

What are your thoughts?


----------



## Shawnb99

ChiTownButcher said:


> Wanted to get some opinions before I have an expensive mistake.
> 
> Fluid I am using is Distilled Water and Mayhems Biocide + and Corrosion Inhibitor + with a typical drain/flush/fill every 4-6mo. Blitz 2 whenever I replace a CPU or GPU block. Considering adding Monsoon Economy V2 Hardline fittings to the loop as I like the esthetic of them. My concern they are either silver plated or silver plated with a clear coat.
> 
> Is this a mixed metal issue where I should be concerned? Current Loop I am concerned about: D5 Next Pump, Several XSPC and Bitspower Black Chrome/Sparkle extensions/fittings and ball valve, 3x Hardware labs radiators (Cleaned with Blitz 1&2), Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper CPU Block and Heatkiller GPU Block that are both Nickel Plated Copper, Res is acrylic distro panel, PETG hard tube.
> 
> What are your thoughts?


Silver isn’t one of the metals to be concerned over. So I wouldn’t be concerned, specially if you’re really going to flush/change fluids that often. You should have no issues. 
Only concern with any coating is possible flaking. Nickel or silver.
One thing to be aware of the lower temp limits on PETG. Hopefully you have a water temp sensor.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Shawnb99 said:


> Silver isn’t one of the metals to be concerned over. So I wouldn’t be concerned, specially if you’re really going to flush/change fluids that often. You should have no issues.
> Only concern with any coating is possible flaking. Nickel or silver.
> One thing to be aware of the lower temp limits on PETG. Hopefully you have a water temp sensor.


Thank you for the reply. Yes water temp and estimated flow rate are built into the D5 Next.


----------



## Shawnb99

Don’t trust the flow meter, it’s only a virtual one so not that accurate. Still better then nothing. 
Temp sensor is good though.


----------



## Liquid4rt

jura11 said:


> Add to pain Brexit and VAT, import charges and Royal Mail/DPD/FedEx fees which you will need to pay as well, ordered something from EU recently and got fees to pay, for item which cost me £35 I paid £25 in VAT and import taxes etc
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Great got even more **** to deal with before it even lands in my hands! Not looking forward to all these fees... the block and backplate plus packaging alone has already cost me over £200...


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Great got even more **** to deal with before it even lands in my hands! Not looking forward to all these fees... the block and backplate plus packaging alone has already cost me over £200...


Feel your pain. I once had to return an cellphone because of manufacturing defects to the UK and i got hit with nearly 200cad in import fees eventhough i stated it was an return.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Feel your pain. I once had to return an cellphone because of manufacturing defects to the UK and i got hit with nearly 200cad in import fees eventhough i stated it was an return.


Wow what did you do in the end??


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Wow what did you do in the end??


Nothing ate it up. Not buying from UK again.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Can anyone confirm, there are shipping issues with FedEx from Germany to UK? I've had a look myself and from what i can see services are running as normal???

I don't get what the actual delay is as they're being vague in the replies via email.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Hi everyone,

I am Daniel from Watercool and I will continue the work of Jakob. 

I wanted to give you a short update on the current shipping situation:
Due to Brexit and the associated changes in customs regulations, we unfortunately werent able to ship to the UK before the beginning of the week. Over the Christmas holidays there was also an enormous amount of orders. We are currently working at highest pressure to process all orders as quickly as possible. We can understand your displeasure at this point, but unfortunately we are only humans. We apologize for any inconvenience and assure you that your packages will be shipped as soon as possible.


----------



## anr11

Welcome Daniel! Glad to see another rep is stepping in to take over for Jakob.


----------



## paskowitz

Welcome Daniel! Things are a bit grumpy ATM, but we welcome and appreciate you being here none the less.


----------



## Shawnb99

Welcome to the forums @Watercool-Daniel 

Any news on the new radiators?


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Welcome Daniel! Things are a bit grumpy ATM, but we welcome and appreciate you being here none the less.


Everyone grumpy in general during these times.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I am Daniel from Watercool and I will continue the work of Jakob.
> 
> I wanted to give you a short update on the current shipping situation:
> Due to Brexit and the associated changes in customs regulations, we unfortunately werent able to ship to the UK before the beginning of the week. Over the Christmas holidays there was also an enormous amount of orders. We are currently working at highest pressure to process all orders as quickly as possible. We can understand your displeasure at this point, but unfortunately we are only humans. We apologize for any inconvenience and assure you that your packages will be shipped as soon as possible.


Welcome new rep.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Everyone grumpy in general during these times.


I find as I’m growing older the more of an ******* I become. Then again I’ve always been a little prick so I didn’t have far to turn


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I am Daniel from Watercool and I will continue the work of Jakob.
> 
> I wanted to give you a short update on the current shipping situation:
> Due to Brexit and the associated changes in customs regulations, we unfortunately werent able to ship to the UK before the beginning of the week. Over the Christmas holidays there was also an enormous amount of orders. We are currently working at highest pressure to process all orders as quickly as possible. We can understand your displeasure at this point, but unfortunately we are only humans. We apologize for any inconvenience and assure you that your packages will be shipped as soon as possible.


Welcome Daniel! Glad to see a rep taking over for Jakob.


----------



## kacsa

Anyone can show me a build picture/video with heatkiller V in it?


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I am Daniel from Watercool and I will continue the work of Jakob.
> 
> I wanted to give you a short update on the current shipping situation:
> Due to Brexit and the associated changes in customs regulations, we unfortunately werent able to ship to the UK before the beginning of the week. Over the Christmas holidays there was also an enormous amount of orders. We are currently working at highest pressure to process all orders as quickly as possible. We can understand your displeasure at this point, but unfortunately we are only humans. We apologize for any inconvenience and assure you that your packages will be shipped as soon as possible.


Thanks for the update Daniel...it's perfectly understandable...does this also delay ETA and shipping for the XC3 block? I live in the United States and I don't believe we have the same problems with international shipping...I shipped a 38" monitor to Israel and it arrived in 3 days


----------



## Chiraq

Welcome Daniel good to have a rep back. I live outside of any EU or Brexit high political bullshit, so with DHL I get packages from Amazon in 3-5 days all the way to Svalbard after shipping out.


----------



## dbterp24

Welcome Daniel, thanks for the update. is there any information you can provide about the FTW3 block?


----------



## paskowitz

I don't think it was posted here, at least there is a render of the XC3 block now. Looks good. Improvement over the partner reference block (which wasn't "bad", just bland) IMO. This has a little more going on but is cleaner overall.


----------



## dbterp24

paskowitz said:


> I don't think it was posted here, at least there is a render of the XC3 block now. Looks good. Improvement over the partner reference block (which wasn't "bad", just bland) IMO. This has a little more going on but is cleaner overall.
> 
> View attachment 2474339


thanks, I actually saw it earlier today, which has me hoping that the FTW3 follows similar design to the XC3


----------



## MageTank

paskowitz said:


> I don't think it was posted here, at least there is a render of the XC3 block now. Looks good. Improvement over the partner reference block (which wasn't "bad", just bland) IMO. This has a little more going on but is cleaner overall.
> 
> View attachment 2474339


Now if only we could get a stainless/copper version of this block. Sadly, based on what was said earlier in the thread, I doubt we will be seeing that without some kind of special order.


----------



## kacsa

Release got delayed until february 5 though.....


----------



## InfoSeeker

kacsa said:


> Anyone can show me a build picture/video with heatkiller V in it?











OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery


ZMT is some good tubing and easy to work with - pretty much has been my preference for the past 4+yrs Just stiffer and can be a pain to get onto the fittings. Not as bendy as some tubing.




www.overclock.net


----------



## JasonMorris

Hi Daniel and welcome.


----------



## djwarreng

paskowitz said:


> I don't think it was posted here, at least there is a render of the XC3 block now. Looks good. Improvement over the partner reference block (which wasn't "bad", just bland) IMO. This has a little more going on but is cleaner overall.
> 
> View attachment 2474339


I like this design much better...and hopefully the argb notch doesn't protrude past the end of the pcb like the reference card blocks do


----------



## Section31

Nicer design. For those not liking the delay, expect everything delayed.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> .


Just a design suggestion... I think this part would look nice in chrome on the black model (vs black on black in the render). I'm assuming on the all nickel version it would be chrome anyways (so you would just use that). This accomplishes the same thing, making the acrylic window more dynamic, but also simplifies the overall profile. If you offer replacement covers for the block like previous models, you wouldn't even have to change anything... just order the all nickel version and then a black cover as an option. Or just as a special request. Do you think this is possible?


----------



## DaLiu

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I am Daniel from Watercool and I will continue the work of Jakob.
> 
> I wanted to give you a short update on the current shipping situation:
> Due to Brexit and the associated changes in customs regulations, we unfortunately werent able to ship to the UK before the beginning of the week. Over the Christmas holidays there was also an enormous amount of orders. We are currently working at highest pressure to process all orders as quickly as possible. We can understand your displeasure at this point, but unfortunately we are only humans. We apologize for any inconvenience and assure you that your packages will be shipped as soon as possible.


Hi Daniel, welcome, please let us know what is the plan with the new radiators, there are some people here, me is one of them who are looking to buy new radiators, at least give us an ETA on the new radiators.


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Hi Daniel, welcome, please let us know what is the plan with the new radiators, there are some people here, me is one of them who are looking to buy new radiators, at least give us an ETA on the new radiators.


Expect delays lol. So ETA is useless. Better to give us some performance numbers so we can decide if we should continue to wait.


----------



## tarkus33

Also registering my very keen interest in a 3080 FTW3 block! Any kind of ETA would be appreciated


----------



## Alxz

Hi Daniel! I'm happy to know you are here 

I guess I will still need to wait for my 3090 block, ordered it on january 4th and I don't know if has been ever shipped or not... (as I'm currently asking for updates to Markus as support representative)
Strange that i haven't seen any photo of a heatkiller v block yet!


----------



## knightriot

Waiting for heatkiller for rnda2 😂


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I am Daniel from Watercool and I will continue the work of Jakob.
> 
> I wanted to give you a short update on the current shipping situation:
> Due to Brexit and the associated changes in customs regulations, we unfortunately werent able to ship to the UK before the beginning of the week. Over the Christmas holidays there was also an enormous amount of orders. We are currently working at highest pressure to process all orders as quickly as possible. We can understand your displeasure at this point, but unfortunately we are only humans. We apologize for any inconvenience and assure you that your packages will be shipped as soon as possible.


Hello, welcome to the group!

I've spoke to Markus over email on numerous occasions about this already but its good to know you're here to update us. Please let us know if there's any further information, it's been awhile and we're eager to receive these blocks


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Hello, welcome to the group!
> 
> I've spoke to Markus over email on numerous occasions about this already but its good to know you're here to update us. Please let us know if there's any further information, it's been awhile and we're eager to receive these blocks


That and more information on the rads too


----------



## Bart

Section31 said:


> That and more information on the rads too


And information on 6800xt/6900xt blocks, since those are slowly starting to be listed in Canada.


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> And information on 6800xt/6900xt blocks, since those are slowly starting to be listed in Canada.


Expect delays. Dazmode going to take while to get them in.


----------



## Bart

Section31 said:


> Expect delays. Dazmode going to take while to get them in.


If I can get a 6900XT, I'll probably order direct from Germany if a block is available. Right now EVERYTHING is delayed, and I'm the only patient guy on this forum.


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> If I can get a 6900XT, I'll probably order direct from Germany if a block is available. Right now EVERYTHING is delayed, and I'm the only patient guy on this forum.


There are many of them actually we just don’t say much. I am patient too


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> That and more information on the rads too


I'll post again if theres an update on my order, give people a rough idea on timescale at least.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool just shipped my block! 

Excited!


----------



## Felgor

My 3080 ref block arrived yesterday. Cleaned up the pcb and test fitted but not plumbed in yet. My 5800x should arrive today to replace the 2600.

I think it looks great! I'm going to change to clear liquid, it should look super clean with a touch of white lighting.

Ignore the mess of right angles going to the cpu block, this was temporary when i pulled out the 1070ti and installed the 3080 on air.


----------



## Section31

Felgor said:


> My 3080 ref block arrived yesterday. Cleaned up the pcb and test fitted but not plumbed in yet. My 5800x should arrive today to replace the 2600.
> 
> I think it looks great! I'm going to change to clear liquid, it should look super clean with a touch of white lighting.
> 
> Ignore the mess of right angles going to the cpu block, this was temporary when i pulled out the 1070ti and installed the 3080 on air.
> View attachment 2474868
> 
> View attachment 2474869
> 
> View attachment 2474870


Love the heatkiller internal radiators look. They always looked the best of all the internal rads out there. I hope the new internal ones performance are on GTS level and retain same look.


----------



## djwarreng

Felgor said:


> My 3080 ref block arrived yesterday. Cleaned up the pcb and test fitted but not plumbed in yet. My 5800x should arrive today to replace the 2600.
> 
> I think it looks great! I'm going to change to clear liquid, it should look super clean with a touch of white lighting.
> 
> Ignore the mess of right angles going to the cpu block, this was temporary when i pulled out the 1070ti and installed the 3080 on air.
> View attachment 2474868
> 
> View attachment 2474869
> 
> View attachment 2474870


Can I ask you a huge favor? Can you measure to see how long the argb notch extends past the length of the PCB...and also what the total length of the waterblock + notch is? Thanks..trying to determine if it will fit in a specific build


----------



## Felgor

djwarreng said:


> Can I ask you a huge favor? Can you measure to see how long the argb notch extends past the length of the PCB...and also what the total length of the waterblock + notch is? Thanks..trying to determine if it will fit in a specific build


No problem, I'll measure and overlay the dimensions on photos later after work.


----------



## Felgor

djwarreng said:


> Can I ask you a huge favor? Can you measure to see how long the argb notch extends past the length of the PCB...and also what the total length of the waterblock + notch is? Thanks..trying to determine if it will fit in a specific build


End of pcb to end of notch = 16.5mm









Total block length is 229mm according to Watercool but bracket to end of block is 232mm

























Other photos that may be of interest


----------



## Chiraq

That is one super nice water block. Once GPUs become available again (lol) I'll be looking for a heatkiller gpu block before any other brand.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Going through the last few posts I think there are 2 main questions here:

*#1 New Radiators*

The new radiators are basically done. You can expect them to be available in the next couple of weeks in sizes from 120mm - 480mm with a thickness of either 30mm or 50mm. They will have our typical, clean Watercool style and will deliver a great performance on low and medium fanspeed 

*#2 EVGA FTW3 and AMD 6800/6900(xt) blocks*

We need a bit more time for the blocks.You can expect them to be available anytime between february and march.


One more thing: Due to the recently high order volume, we will no longer offer pre-orders for now. We ask for your understanding.


----------



## Avacado

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Going through the last few posts I think there are 2 main questions here:
> 
> *#1 New Radiators*
> 
> The new radiators are basically done. You can expect them to be available in the next couple of weeks in sizes from 120mm - 480mm with a thickness of either 30mm or 50mm. They will have our typical, clean Watercool style and will deliver a great performance on low and medium fanspeed
> 
> *#2 EVGA FTW3 and AMD 6800/6900(xt) blocks*
> 
> We need a bit more time for the blocks.You can expect them to be available anytime between february and march.
> 
> 
> One more thing: Due to the recently high order volume, we will no longer offer pre-orders for now. We ask for your understanding.


Perfect, can we get the exact name of the new rads? So we know what to search for. Also, any insight to which retailers will be receiving the first shipments?


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Avacado said:


> Perfect, can we get the exact name of the new rads? So we know what to search for. Also, any insight to which retailers will be receiving the first shipments?


Donty worry, I will inform you here once the radiators are available


----------



## Avacado

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Donty worry, I will inform you here once the radiators are available


----------



## Liquid4rt

Felgor said:


> No problem, I'll measure and overlay the dimensions on photos later after work.


Looks amazing mate, can't wait to get mine. I ordered the black one.

How was the assembly? Does it use thermal pads for the ram chips or paste?

Cheers


----------



## paskowitz

Thanks for the replies Daniel.


----------



## djwarreng

Felgor said:


> End of pcb to end of notch = 16.5mm
> View attachment 2474920
> 
> 
> Total block length is 229mm according to Watercool but bracket to end of block is 232mm
> View attachment 2474922
> 
> View attachment 2474923
> 
> View attachment 2474924
> 
> 
> Other photos that may be of interest
> View attachment 2474925
> 
> View attachment 2474926
> 
> 
> View attachment 2474927
> 
> 
> View attachment 2474928


Thank you soo much Felgor! very much appreciated


----------



## Bart

Watercool-Daniel: what are the plans for the Radeon blocks? Will we be seeing updates to gpu.watercool.de shortly? Asking because I have a 6900XT on order, had my choice between Asus or Sapphire, and I chose Asus, hoping they're both reference designs.


----------



## Felgor

Liquid4rt said:


> Looks amazing mate, can't wait to get mine. I ordered the black one.
> 
> How was the assembly? Does it use thermal pads for the ram chips or paste?
> 
> Cheers


Yea black would be nice with coloured coolant and other black hardware.

RAM and VRM use a mix of .5mm and 1mm pads.

The backplate also uses 1mm pads to cover the solder joints of components.



djwarreng said:


> Thank you soo much Felgor! very much appreciated


No problem at all.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> View attachment 2474979


Woot thats great news. I am ordering with couple people here for that lol


----------



## Fluxmaven

I don't even need any radiators and I'm still excited


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Going through the last few posts I think there are 2 main questions here:
> 
> *#1 New Radiators*
> 
> The new radiators are basically done. You can expect them to be available in the next couple of weeks in sizes from 120mm - 480mm with a thickness of either 30mm or 50mm. They will have our typical, clean Watercool style and will deliver a great performance on low and medium fanspeed
> 
> *#2 EVGA FTW3 and AMD 6800/6900(xt) blocks*
> 
> We need a bit more time for the blocks.You can expect them to be available anytime between february and march.
> 
> 
> One more thing: Due to the recently high order volume, we will no longer offer pre-orders for now. We ask for your understanding.


Is there anyway i could get them shipped in one shipment per say. I got group buy consisting of two orders of 3080xc3 blocks in and at least 4 x 50mm 360mm rads.

None of us in an hurry but Its going to be tough to buy them at once and be in stock. Couple of the builds aren’t planned till summer as my friends need to use my mo-ra3 setup to test there systems.


----------



## chibi

Hi Daniel, will the new rads come in black finish as well? The current bright silver clashes with my intended build. Thanks!


----------



## Felgor

Section31 said:


> Is there anyway i could get them shipped in one shipment per say. I got group buy consisting of two orders of 3080xc3 blocks in and at least 4 x 50mm 360mm rads.
> 
> None of us in an hurry but Its going to be tough to buy them at once and be in stock. Couple of the builds aren’t planned till summer as my friends need to use my mo-ra3 setup to test there systems.


What are the customs and import taxes like where you live? My first, large order over $1500AUD stung me around $350 on import duties and tax. My recent order under $500AUD had no additional charges.

Just something to consider if the group buy will actually work out cheaper.


----------



## Section31

Felgor said:


> What are the customs and import taxes like where you live? My first, large order over $1500AUD stung me around $350 on import duties and tax. My recent order under $500AUD had no additional charges.
> 
> Just something to consider if the group buy will actually work out cheaper.


In Canada, its processing fees (dependent on carrier but small if non-ups) plus government and provincial sales tax or hst. The advantage of group buy is more saving on shipping (free if over 400euros) but only makes sense if its within same region within canada. I wouldn't recommend people on the east coast join in as domestic shipping will kill the savings.


----------



## Section31

Felgor said:


> What are the customs and import taxes like where you live? My first, large order over $1500AUD stung me around $350 on import duties and tax. My recent order under $500AUD had no additional charges.
> 
> Just something to consider if the group buy will actually work out cheaper.


The other bigger way of savings but more complicated is you ship to tax free country and then bring it back yourself. I have looked at this option before (ship to my parent's Hong Kong address) and bring back to Canada myself or get friend to bring in. However, its not recommended unless you can wait to get ahold of the product.


----------



## Felgor

Section31 said:


> The other bigger way of savings but more complicated is you ship to tax free country and then bring it back yourself. I have looked at this option before (ship to my parent's Hong Kong address) and bring back to Canada myself or get friend to bring in. However, its not recommended unless you can wait to get ahold of the product.


Fair enough if you travel frequently. Even with the taxes and duties in Australia, The Heatkiller gear was either more expensive or simply not available anyway. 

If you need fittings, the Barrow stuff Watercool stock is quite good. I find the finish quite durable and tripple o ring seal with double o ring on the collar is really secure. Though my only comparisons are EK and Swiftech soft tubing compression fittings.

I'm still going on plumbing this 3080 in, should be up and running tonight provided no disasters.


----------



## Felgor

All plumbed in now, 5800x installed as well. Pressure test is perfect, so I will refill with clear Mayhems tomorrow. Pretty sure I updated the bios a few weeks ago  for Zen 3 support.

The Lianli vertical pcie bracket cannot be installed properly with a 50mm rad and 25mm fans and is a bit flimsy if you want the video card at 90degrees and needs support.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Felgor said:


> Yea black would be nice with coloured coolant and other black hardware.
> 
> RAM and VRM use a mix of .5mm and 1mm pads.
> 
> The backplate also uses 1mm pads to cover the solder joints of components.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem at all.


Thank you for the info mate, getting mine very soon. Will post up some pictures when its done too.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Going through the last few posts I think there are 2 main questions here:
> 
> *#1 New Radiators*
> 
> The new radiators are basically done. You can expect them to be available in the next couple of weeks in sizes from 120mm - 480mm with a thickness of either 30mm or 50mm. They will have our typical, clean Watercool style and will deliver a great performance on low and medium fanspeed
> 
> *#2 EVGA FTW3 and AMD 6800/6900(xt) blocks*
> 
> We need a bit more time for the blocks.You can expect them to be available anytime between february and march.
> 
> 
> One more thing: Due to the recently high order volume, we will no longer offer pre-orders for now. We ask for your understanding.


I hope you guys do reopen preorders. The reason being work gets busy for me around Mar-April so I won't have time to keep track of the listings and I have no plans to finish my build till summer time.


----------



## Liquid4rt

@Felgor can you just confirm what gpu you have mounted to your heatkiller block?
Thanks


----------



## Liquid4rt

My blocks arrived in the UK finally, glad its not stuck somewhere in europe! However... as expected i got slapped with a £50 duty and tax bill! That 20% tax... wish it came before the new year damn!


----------



## Felgor

Liquid4rt said:


> @Felgor can you just confirm what gpu you have mounted to your heatkiller block?
> Thanks


Galax 3080 SG 1 click OC

Simply because it was the only reference board available...and my 1070ti was a Galax and I was happy with it.



Liquid4rt said:


> My blocks arrived in the UK finally, glad its not stuck somewhere in europe! However... as expected i got slapped with a £50 duty and tax bill! That 20% tax... wish it came before the new year damn!


Damn tax. At least you have it in your sights now. Do you have a card yet?


----------



## Chiraq

6800/6900 block is obviously no rush, the cards aren't available either. But I take it a some AIB cards will be supported as well? I will await what cards your blocks support and order when they can be ordered. Thank you for reporting back to us!


----------



## Mxj1

I've ordered some pieces to start on my new project of ITX and external Mo-Ra 420. I'm going to be using four NF-A20 fans and a d5 mounted to the mo-ra, and I've got some questions regarding electrical cables to the mo-ra.

I've been browsing the hardwareluxx thread the past several days and have seen some nice cables using circular DIN cables. I would really like to go this route, and have no problem making the cable. However, I'm concerned about the start-up amperage of the NF-A20. AC says it can be as much as 8A. Most DIN connectors I've found are ~2A per terminal max, with an exception being 7.5A connector. This is taking me to a different thought of needing two connectors/cables - one will supply 12v, the other will be rpm/pwm signal from the pump and fans.

I am capable of creating a custom molex cable to make the connection, but I'm really keen on these round connectors now that I've seen them 

As anyone here come up with a nice, tasteful solution to this problem?


----------



## Alxz

Happy to say that im impresed with the heatkiller V, rocking my 3090 with this piece of craftmanship! 

This is the zotac trinity one


----------



## Liquid4rt

My rig is screaming for the heatkiller block! Still waiting!


----------



## Bart

*Liquid4rt: *how is "WALL-E" performing?* 🙃 *


----------



## Mxj1

Alxz said:


> Happy to say that im impresed with the heatkiller V, rocking my 3090 with this piece of craftmanship!
> 
> This is the zotac trinity one


I'm curious - why are these blocks missing the top of the oring in the inlet? The product pictures on the website show an oring in the entire groove.


----------



## Felgor

Alxz said:


> Happy to say that im impresed with the heatkiller V, rocking my 3090 with this piece of craftmanship!
> 
> This is the zotac trinity one
> View attachment 2475515


Looks great ! 

I think we need to gather some performance data now.

Just quickly without listing absolutely everything...after heat soaking a while running Heaven.

Running a Galax 3080 on stock bios, 2010mhz at 1.012v, +1000 memory. Heatkiller V block, conductonaut liquid metal. 3x 360mm HTSF2 LTX with noiseblocker pwm fans, D5 pump, AMD 5800x in the loop under a Heatkiller IV, PBO on.

Ambient temp 24.5c
Load 52c in silent mode (fan rpm all 600, pump 1150rpm) air out temp was 42c peak. 
Load 42c with fans on full , 1500 rpm and pump 3200rpm.
Didnt measure water temp...I'll need to stick a probe in the res, maybe later.

Compared to other 3080 users and blocks i think my max rpm temp is ok, but without knowing their fan speeds and ambient temps it is hard to be sure. Then add the blazing inferno that is the 5800x without tdp limits...


----------



## Liquid4rt

Bart said:


> *Liquid4rt: *how is "WALL-E" performing?* 🙃 *


Honestly its okay, not the best if im honest... Runs around 50c with fans set to 1400rpm on lian li unifans. It's quiet but would be nice to sit under 45c, think a better paste would help too.. may try LM when my block arrives.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Felgor said:


> Galax 3080 SG 1 click OC
> 
> Simply because it was the only reference board available...and my 1070ti was a Galax and I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn tax. At least you have it in your sights now. Do you have a card yet?


Yeah its coming just the damn wait... my delivery is pending from Fedex . Before it said delivery Monday 25th but its back to pending now, god knows whats going on.

Yup i have my card, got it on day 1 release Palit gamingpro 3090.. was lucky!


----------



## ppkstat

Mxj1 said:


> I've ordered some pieces to start on my new project of ITX and external Mo-Ra 420. I'm going to be using four NF-A20 fans and a d5 mounted to the mo-ra, and I've got some questions regarding electrical cables to the mo-ra.
> 
> I've been browsing the hardwareluxx thread the past several days and have seen some nice cables using circular DIN cables. I would really like to go this route, and have no problem making the cable. However, I'm concerned about the start-up amperage of the NF-A20. AC says it can be as much as 8A. Most DIN connectors I've found are ~2A per terminal max, with an exception being 7.5A connector. This is taking me to a different thought of needing two connectors/cables - one will supply 12v, the other will be rpm/pwm signal from the pump and fans.
> 
> I am capable of creating a custom molex cable to make the connection, but I'm really keen on these round connectors now that I've seen them
> 
> As anyone here come up with a nice, tasteful solution to this problem?


You can use an 8-pin EPS connector mounted on a pci slot. This is what I did to mine, I got the idea from elsewhere. It features 7 cables 2 for D5 12V, 2 for D5 pwm+rpm and 3 for controlling the Noctuas A 20 (non-pwm version). Pump 12V is on 17AWG wires and the rest are on 24AWG. I wasn't aware that the Noctuas draw around 8A when starting but it appears to be a very short spike. I wouldn't think that this would be a problem with a 2A connector because if this was the case it would also be an issue for the cables as well. Running 8A through the factory noctua fan connectors is simply not possible without something melting. 
You can see pictures of mine below.


----------



## Mxj1

I've also seen that 8 pin connector method. That was actually my fall-back plan.  However, this is going to be used in a very premium-esque ITX build and I really wanted that to translate into the Mo-Ra application.

I also have been fighting myself over the amperage spike, and the logical opinion that even the wires supplied with the Noctua extension would not handle 8A.

I've settled on building a cable using a couple Neutrix circular 6 pole connectors.


----------



## ppkstat

Mxj1 said:


> I've settled on building a cable using a couple Neutrix circular 6 pole connectors.





Mxj1 said:


> Most DIN connectors I've found are ~2A


I've never seen Neutrik DIN connectors in the past. You might be referring to XLR connectors and if that's the case I highly doubt these won't be able to handle the load.
How are you planning to control the fans and what cable are you going to use?

In any case you can assemble everything outside the case with a male and female connector and perform a sort of stress test in which you continuously turn the fans on and off. But again, I can't imagine 4 noctua fans knocking down an XLR connector.


----------



## Mxj1

ppkstat said:


> I've never seen Neutrik DIN connectors in the past. You might be referring to XLR connectors and if that's the case I highly doubt these won't be able to handle the load.
> How are you planning to control the fans and what cable are you going to use?
> 
> In any case you can assemble everything outside the case with a male and female connector and perform a sort of stress test in which you continuously turn the fans on and off. But again, I can't imagine 4 noctua fans knocking down an XLR connector.


I was referring to DIN as the round style of connector - XLR may be more accurate to say. I dunno. These to say.

I will run 12v and ground directly from the PSU to the rear of the case where I will either a- install a receptacle, b- run a small length outside of the case for a pigtail. this will occupy 2/6 pins. I will use this 12v and gnd for the four NF-A20s and D5 mounted on the Mo-Ra. I will bring the RPM and PWM from the fans back into the case to a Quadro on pins 3/4. I will bring the RPM and PWM of the D5 back in on pins 5/6 to the quadro. The two other channels of the quadro will be used for a D5 and four fans inside the case.

I am still toying with a couple of the variables.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

NEED HELP. For the Heatkiller CPU Block should I tighten the thumb screws until the bottom out? Or just a little to compress the springs?


----------



## Liquid4rt

ChiTownButcher said:


> NEED HELP. For the Heatkiller CPU Block should I tighten the thumb screws until the bottom out? Or just a little to compress the springs?


I don't think you should bottom them out, it can bend the board. I never ever bottom them screws out, the mounting pressure can be alot. Best way to test is to mount, screw it down then unmount and see how evenly spread the paste is. If its good contact you know you've reached a good limit. If its over tightened you'll normally find the center paste is pushed out alot more, if its under tightened you'll find the paste not spread to the edges.


----------



## Liquid4rt

@Watercool-Daniel 

Can you just confirm something for me, a member on another forum mentioned that he received an email from you guys stating that the Palit Gamingpro RTX 3090 would not fit the Heatkiller V block reference design? The GPU is reference though and is down on your compatibility list. 

Can you confirm it fits? Thanks


----------



## ppkstat

Mxj1 said:


> I was referring to DIN as the round style of connector - XLR may be more accurate to say. I dunno. These to say.


You'll be fine with these. Please post pictures of the cable setup when done. I also had a look on the German thread and it was quite interesting.


----------



## Mxj1

ppkstat said:


> You'll be fine with these. Please post pictures of the cable setup when done. I also had a look on the German thread and it was quite interesting.


Will do.

I'm still waiting on some of the Mo-Ra accessories, and the WinterOne case that I'll need before I commit to a cable length.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Unboxed and installed the Heatkiller V block finally







, mega happy with it. Not tested the temps yet but idles around 26c with a room temp of around 22c, will do some game testing later for a comparison with the Alphacool block. The light distribution inside the block is insane, its very well lit and hits just the right spots around the channels of the flow. Highly recommend this block to anyone looking for one now. Well done Watercool, done a fantastic job on this and worth every penny!

Warning PIC HEAVY


----------



## DaLiu

wrong post


----------



## DaLiu

Liquid4rt said:


> Unboxed and installed the Heatkiller V block finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , mega happy with it. Not tested the temps yet but idles around 26c with a room temp of around 22c, will do some game testing later for a comparison with the Alphacool block. The light distribution inside the block is insane, its very well lit and hits just the right spots around the channels of the flow. Highly recommend this block to anyone looking for one now. Well done Watercool, done a fantastic job on this and worth every penny!
> 
> Warning PIC HEAVY


What brand of 3080 you used for the block?


----------



## Liquid4rt

DaLiu said:


> What brand of 3080 you used for the block?


It's a Palit GamingPro 3090


----------



## Felgor

Liquid4rt said:


> Unboxed and installed the Heatkiller V block finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , mega happy with it. Not tested the temps yet but idles around 26c with a room temp of around 22c, will do some game testing later for a comparison with the Alphacool block. The light distribution inside the block is insane, its very well lit and hits just the right spots around the channels of the flow. Highly recommend this block to anyone looking for one now. Well done Watercool, done a fantastic job on this and worth every penny!
> 
> Warning PIC HEAVY


Looks awesome. The dual loops and colour is cool.


----------



## broodro0ster

Liquid4rt said:


> My blocks arrived in the UK finally, glad its not stuck somewhere in europe! However... as expected i got slapped with a £50 duty and tax bill! That 20% tax... wish it came before the new year damn!


I've read somewhere that you payed German VAT before 31/12/20 and after 31/12/20 you don't pay German VAT, but you pay the UK VAT import fee. So normally you should get the VAT refunded from Watercool, since you pay VAT twice now.


----------



## Barefooter

Anybody have an Aquacomputer D5 Next pump mounted under a Heatkiller Tube reservoir?

I'm getting ready to do a new build and want to wall mount the pump - reservoir assembly to the back panel and am just curious how it would look.

Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Bart

Liquid4rt: looking good, can't wait to hear about the temps. My 6900XT is literally _dying_ to be blocked, like all AMD cards.


----------



## Mxj1

Barefooter said:


> Anybody have an Aquacomputer D5 Next pump mounted under a Heatkiller Tube reservoir?
> 
> I'm getting ready to do a new build and want to wall mount the pump - reservoir assembly to the back panel and am just curious how it would look.
> 
> Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!


Here's an old one from last time around with Heatkiller tube.


----------



## Barefooter

Mxj1 said:


> Here's an old one from last time around with Heatkiller tube.


Awesome thank you! 

Did put any insulating material between the Heatkiller tube mounting brackets and the back panel or just attach it directly?


----------



## Crraved

Is there any dimension data on the XC3 block? Can't find it on the product page. I sent an email to the support team a while ago but haven't heard back yet.


----------



## djwarreng

@Watercool-Daniel is there any data on the total length of the XC3 waterblock and backplate?
are we getting close to seeing some images?


----------



## Mxj1

Barefooter said:


> Awesome thank you!
> 
> Did put any insulating material between the Heatkiller tube mounting brackets and the back panel or just attach it directly?


It was attached to a GTS 360 using these two parts:






Watercool Heatkiller Tube Ausgleichsbehälter Basis Montagekit, 19,95 €


Ideales Montagekit zur Montage intern im Gehäuse. Gefertigt aus massivem Acetal, bieten das Basismontagekit die einfachste Installation unseres Tube AGBs.




shop.watercool.de










Watercool Heatkiller 120mm Fan Adapter Montagekit für AGB, 14,95 €


Watercool Heatkiller Montagekit für die Montage des Tube AGB an einem 120mm Lüfterplatz.




shop.watercool.de





The mounting kit incorporates rubber isolators to reduce vibrations and noise.


----------



## Liquid4rt




----------



## Barefooter

Mxj1 said:


> It was attached to a GTS 360 using these two parts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller Tube Ausgleichsbehälter Basis Montagekit, 19,95 €
> 
> 
> Ideales Montagekit zur Montage intern im Gehäuse. Gefertigt aus massivem Acetal, bieten das Basismontagekit die einfachste Installation unseres Tube AGBs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller 120mm Fan Adapter Montagekit für AGB, 14,95 €
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller Montagekit für die Montage des Tube AGB an einem 120mm Lüfterplatz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting kit incorporates rubber isolators to reduce vibrations and noise.


Thanks for the links and gave you a Rep!


----------



## DaLiu

Liquid4rt said:


> Unboxed and installed the Heatkiller V block finally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , mega happy with it. Not tested the temps yet but idles around 26c with a room temp of around 22c, will do some game testing later for a comparison with the Alphacool block. The light distribution inside the block is insane, its very well lit and hits just the right spots around the channels of the flow. Highly recommend this block to anyone looking for one now. Well done Watercool, done a fantastic job on this and worth every penny!
> 
> Warning PIC HEAVY


You connected the aRGB of videocard directly to the motherboard or....? How do you control the lighting?


----------



## arvinz

@Watercool-Daniel 

Any plans in the future for TUF/Strix 3080/3090 owners?


----------



## lkramer

@Watercool-Daniel

Are there plans in the future for an ASUS TUF RX 6800 XT block?


----------



## Section31

Barefooter said:


> Anybody have an Aquacomputer D5 Next pump mounted under a Heatkiller Tube reservoir?
> 
> I'm getting ready to do a new build and want to wall mount the pump - reservoir assembly to the back panel and am just curious how it would look.
> 
> Any pictures would be greatly appreciated!


Has been done by many. It works and looks good.


----------



## Liquid4rt

DaLiu said:


> You connected the aRGB of videocard directly to the motherboard or....? How do you control the lighting?


Hi mate, the rgb on the gpu block is connected to a controller instead. Everything else is connected via the motherboard, i found having a controller is quite useful to change things on the fly without having to go into the settings.


----------



## DaLiu

Liquid4rt said:


> Hi mate, the rgb on the gpu block is connected to a controller instead. Everything else is connected via the motherboard, i found having a controller is quite useful to change things on the fly without having to go into the settings.


Mind sharing what king of controller are you using?


----------



## Liquid4rt

DaLiu said:


> Mind sharing what king of controller are you using?


It's an old but gold Antec controller that came bundled with the Antec Prism fans. Fans have long gone but i still use the controller as it has the standard 4pin pwm fan headers and 3pin rgb headers (4 of each on the controller) and a bonus with it being sata powered as well. Think there's an adapter for motherboard control as well but i don't use it, its a standalone unit for me.


----------



## paskowitz

arvinz said:


> @Watercool-Daniel
> 
> Any plans in the future for TUF/Strix 3080/3090 owners?


ATM, they have said they have no plans for any blocks outside of "partner reference", "reference long", EVGA XC3 and EVGA FTW3. It was a tough call this gen. Hopefully the recent investments in their facility enable them to produce blocks for a wider variety of models down the road.


----------



## Mxj1

ppkstat said:


> You'll be fine with these. Please post pictures of the cable setup when done. I also had a look on the German thread and it was quite interesting.


I've got the fans and pump wired up to the 6 pin receptacle that I've mounted on the fan shroud. I used connections on the inside so that I could unplug the outlet when I take the fan cover off.



















I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.


----------



## Felgor

Has anyone lapped a Heatkiller IV Pro AMD and 5xxx series cpu?

My 5800x is doing my head in at 150w, and I am not sure if it is the mounting or just how the cpu is.


----------



## MageTank

Felgor said:


> Has anyone lapped a Heatkiller IV Pro AMD and 5xxx series cpu?
> 
> My 5800x is doing my head in at 150w, and I am not sure if it is the mounting or just how the cpu is.


I've contemplated doing this for my 5950X, however I've been told conflicting information about doing this with bowed blocks. Some say not to do it, others say it's fine. Difficult to take that risk on an $800 CPU that I already struggled to find in the first place, lol.


----------



## Section31

Just realized the people who joined my heatkiller group buy got potential great deal. 180euro before taxes and you can get an xc3 block plus backplate.


----------



## paskowitz

I spy with my little eye...


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> I spy with my little eye...


Omg. Beautiful


----------



## Section31

CustomRigsDe (@customrigsde) • Instagram photos and videos


22K Followers, 379 Following, 1,610 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from CustomRigsDe (@customrigsde)




www.instagram.com


----------



## djwarreng

paskowitz said:


> I spy with my little eye...


are those the new radiators? or can I buy them now?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Mxj1 said:


> I've got the fans and pump wired up to the 6 pin receptacle that I've mounted on the fan shroud. I used connections on the inside so that I could unplug the outlet when I take the fan cover off.
> 
> View attachment 2476287
> 
> 
> View attachment 2476322
> 
> 
> I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.


That is awesome! Mind sharing some more pics?


----------



## Mxj1

LiquidHaus said:


> That is awesome! Mind sharing some more pics?


Sure, anything particular in mind? The setup is still unused - waiting on a new case for plumbing up.


----------



## Darket1234

snef said:


> Hi everyone
> 
> long time i post something on OCN
> 
> i just finish 2 build for Asus ROG with the, so appreciate, help of Watercool and i just cant forget OCN
> 
> here the first one, the second , im under NDA until next week
> 
> 
> how you like Heatkiller product in full white?????
> 
> the first one is named "Fleurs" and this one will be my fife's gaming pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a little teaser to the second one


Heya. Any news about this proyect? I cant find many SFF cases that can fit a heatkiller reservoir 100. Thanks!


----------



## Darket1234

isabirov said:


> Everyone is busy with modding, so here are my two cents
> I've been planning SFF build for quite a while. Hope to finish it in near future.
> First problem that I met is that HK tube D5 is too long for my build, even in it's 100 version.
> So, presenting you brand new HK tube 50 D5 black edition (black tinted borosilicate glass).
> I got 50mm black tinted glass tube and cut 50mm from struts and standpipe. Total height is 141 mm now, just as 140mm fan.
> Looks bulky, but I like it.


Heya. How you got one of those?! Its exactly what I need for my sff project!


----------



## broodro0ster

paskowitz said:


> ATM, they have said they have no plans for any blocks outside of "partner reference", "reference long", EVGA XC3 and EVGA FTW3. It was a tough call this gen. Hopefully the recent investments in their facility enable them to produce blocks for a wider variety of models down the road.


Indeed, but I also hope they add more cards in the future. I live in Europe and I'm on the waitlist from a EVGA 3080 XC3 since Watercool announced a block for it. And I'm still waiting for a card.
I've had multiple chances to buy an Asus TUF card, but I really want the Heatkiller block


----------



## DaLiu

broodro0ster said:


> I live in Europe and I'm on the waitlist from a EVGA 3080 XC3 since Watercool announced a block for it. And I'm still waiting for a card.


I am also from Europe and looking to buy EVGA 3080, could you please tell me where you preorder it? Thanks a lot!


----------



## broodro0ster

DaLiu said:


> I am also from Europe and looking to buy EVGA 3080, could you please tell me where you preorder it? Thanks a lot!


The official EU evga website. Other resellers ask 200euro more. If you fill in your e-mailadres in the notify pop-up, you get a unique link to order one when it’s your turn.


----------



## DaLiu

broodro0ster said:


> The official EU evga website. Other resellers ask 200euro more. If you fill in your e-mailadres in the notify pop-up, you get a unique link to order one when it’s your turn.


I did that, but it is news to me that I will get a unique link to order, I thought it will notify everybody and first come, first served. Thank you!


----------



## DaLiu

Watercool-Daniel said:


> *#1 New Radiators*
> 
> The new radiators are basically done. You can expect them to be available in the next couple of weeks in sizes from 120mm - 480mm with a thickness of either 30mm or 50mm. They will have our typical, clean Watercool style and will deliver a great performance on low and medium fanspeed


Couple of weeks almost passed and we don't have any news about the radiators, some concept, pictures, details, anything will be great from you guys.


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Couple of weeks almost passed and we don't have any news about the radiators, some concept, pictures, details, anything will be great from you guys.


Read the last couple posts. We may have gotten an sneak peak at the radiator. It's obviously not heatkiller current rad (this looks like its 30mm thick).









[Official] Heatkiller Club


You connected the aRGB of videocard directly to the motherboard or....? How do you control the lighting? Hi mate, the rgb on the gpu block is connected to a controller instead. Everything else is connected via the motherboard, i found having a controller is quite useful to change things on the...




www.overclock.net


----------



## broodro0ster

DaLiu said:


> I did that, but it is news to me that I will get a unique link to order, I thought it will notify everybody and first come, first served. Thank you!


You get a personal link that ensures you can order one, but the link is only 8 hours valid. So you really have to jump on it as soon as you get the mail. And I hope it doesn't get send out during the night...


----------



## Mxj1

LiquidHaus said:


> That is awesome! Mind sharing some more pics?


I was tinkering last night and took a few minutes to get some better photos of my cable/connector.




























and a test lead that allows me to run the pump/fans on my external psu:










For materials, these are all Neutrik XX 6 pin XLR connectors.

6 pin female on both ends of the cable. I did not want the cable to be directional.
6 pin male outlet on the Mo-Ra. The male connection at the case has not been made yet. I'm awaiting delivery of my WinterOne before finalizing that connection. I would really like to use a socket on the case, but I'm not going to modify the case until (_if_) I can get replacement parts for it.

Neutrik parts were ordered from Mouser.

I'm using six conductor Belden 8446 wire to make the cable. 12v and Ground go in on 18 ga. wires, and the remaining four are 22 ga. for PWM/RPM of the fans and pump... and of course I sleeved the cables in black paracord. 

I'll say that this execution is a little spendy considering some of the other approaches I've seen, but I did not want to use an ATX connector, or result in extension cables to make the connection from case to Mo-Ra. I'm definitely going for a premium, buy-once-cry-once approach with this.


----------



## paskowitz

Sigh. Here we go again. 1 day until XC3 block "product availability" an no pictures of the actual block or announcements.


----------



## Liquid4rt

paskowitz said:


> Sigh. Here we go again. 1 day until XC3 block "product availability" an no pictures of the actual block or announcements.


It's gonna be delayed, you just know it. Pictures always come before launch, no pictures means no launch. Saying that though there weren't even any pictures of the backplates but they still launched... i dont know.


----------



## LiquidHaus

It may just be photos being released the same day as launch. I've worked for a few companies where this was their model. Strange, I know. But it exists. Especially now with Jakob no longer working at Heatkiller. They don't really have an ear to the ground anymore. Makes no sense imo.


----------



## djwarreng

Liquid4rt said:


> It's gonna be delayed, you just know it. Pictures always come before launch, no pictures means no launch. Saying that though there weren't even any pictures of the backplates but they still launched... i dont know.


The xc3 backplate says available on 12.2.2021.
So I am assuming they will delay shipping my xc3 block until they have my full order ready anyways


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> It may just be photos being released the same day as launch. I've worked for a few companies where this was their model. Strange, I know. But it exists. Especially now with Jakob no longer working at Heatkiller. They don't really have an ear to the ground anymore. Makes no sense imo.


Jakob is really missed for that. He was one of the best reps.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> It's gonna be delayed, you just know it. Pictures always come before launch, no pictures means no launch. Saying that though there weren't even any pictures of the backplates but they still launched... i dont know.


So the XC3, Radiator People and the FTW3 people are basically waiting.


----------



## DaLiu

Any idea about what thermal pads Heatkiller is using on their 3080/3090 waterblocks?

Im wondering if I should buy Thermalright Extreme Odyssey Thermal Pad 12.5W/mK or stick with what Heatkiller is putting in the package.


----------



## Barefooter

DaLiu said:


> Any idea about what thermal pads Heatkiller is using on their 3080/3090 waterblocks?
> 
> Im wondering if I should buy Thermalright Extreme Odyssey Thermal Pad 12.5W/mK or stick with what Heatkiller is putting in the package.


I have found the thermal pads that come with the water blocks work quite well, and they are already cut to size. Not sure what exact brand it is though.


----------



## Felgor

DaLiu said:


> Any idea about what thermal pads Heatkiller is using on their 3080/3090 waterblocks?
> 
> Im wondering if I should buy Thermalright Extreme Odyssey Thermal Pad 12.5W/mK or stick with what Heatkiller is putting in the package.


Not sure on brand, but they keep memory at +1200 on my Galax 3080 SG at 64c load, with minimal case air flow.


----------



## Darket1234

Hello all! I'm looking for a SFF case that you can see the components. I would like a windowed like the Ncase M1 if the HK reservoir wasnt that bulky (pic of someone who placed a DCC one:









https://i.redd.it/o3ck9zdsb9c11.jpg 

... and only found the a slim tower like the Thermaltake G3. Anyone can refer to a sff case with window?
Thanks

PS: watercool: this would have been a solution if you make a smaller 50ml Reservoir like Isarirov (sept 2019) did:


https://www.overclock.net/attachments/img_20190913_161031-jpg.295296/




https://www.overclock.net/attachments/img_20190913_155059-jpg.295298/




https://www.overclock.net/attachments/img_20190913_155750-jpg.295300/




https://www.overclock.net/attachments/img_20190913_162722-jpg.295302/




https://www.overclock.net/attachments/img_20190913_161659-jpg.295304/




https://www.overclock.net/attachments/img_20190913_162822-jpg.295306/


----------



## ging

Darket1234 said:


> Hello all! I'm looking for a SFF case that you can see the components. I would like a windowed like the Ncase M1...


CoolerMaster NR200P should fit the bill nicely.

Comes with both tempered glass side panel and mesh panel.
Vertical GPU mount and rise included.
Can fit a 240mm radiator on the bottom (280 with a custom bracket), and a slim 240 radiator with 15mm fans if you mod the top panel.
Also has a side bracket for another 240mm radiator, though I doubt you'll use that if you're going for aesthetics.

Check out reddit.com/r/sffpc & reddit.com/r/watercooling for some NR200P builds.


----------



## srg3037

Felgor said:


> Not sure on brand, but they keep memory at +1200 on my Galax 3080 SG at 64c load, with minimal case air flow.
> View attachment 2477290
> View attachment 2477291



No pads on the inductors/chokes? How are the temps? I ended up getting one for my 3080 XC3 which already has the EKWB vector block/backplate on it. Was not happy with the missteps EKWB had on the block/backplate so curious to see the difference.


----------



## djwarreng

xc3 block now says availability on the 10th


----------



## EniGma1987

srg3037 said:


> No pads on the inductors/chokes? How are the temps? I ended up getting one for my 3080 XC3 which already has the EKWB vector block/backplate on it. Was not happy with the missteps EKWB had on the block/backplate so curious to see the difference.


I dont believe the chokes really get too hot, it is mostly the mosfets that produce the heat.
But regardless, I used a glob of TIM on top of each choke to give it some heat transfer into the block anyway just in case.


----------



## djwarreng

heads up..the chrome xc3 blocks says "available now"...the black xc3 block still says the 10th...anyone get an update for shipping on the chrome xc3?


----------



## paskowitz

Update from the (German) Hardwareluxx forum:










I guess this means the FTW3 block is probably at least a month out. At least it's nice to see the XC3 block is close.


----------



## djwarreng

paskowitz said:


> Update from the (German) Hardwareluxx forum:
> 
> View attachment 2477599
> 
> 
> I guess this means the FTW3 block is probably at least a month out. At least it's nice to see the XC3 block is close.


That is great news..I like the design for the xc3 better than the reference


----------



## Liquid4rt

It's coming along but its just gonna take awhile, they're working under pandemic conditions still so bare with it.


----------



## Liquid4rt

So in an attempt to bring temps down even more, i jerry rigged another 360 radiator i had spare to the loop on QD's It's a TX360 in push pull config. Surprisingly managed to drop temps down from 48-50c down to 41-42c. Doesn't make much of a difference atm as im power limited on my 3090 without a shunt mod but nice non the less to see significantly lower temps with a slim rad added to the loop. I'm waiting on a pci pass through so the tubes are dangling around loosely.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> It's coming along but its just gonna take awhile, they're working under pandemic conditions still so bare with it.


The radiator wait is also super long. Thats holding up my order with friends.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> The radiator wait is also super long. Thats holding up my order with friends.


No chance of getting your other stuff first and then post the radiator later when its ready?


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> No chance of getting your other stuff first and then post the radiator later when its ready?


Nope. Free shipping with that order as over 400euro in total


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Nope. Free shipping with that order as over 400euro in total


Damn, guess you're stuck waiting then. I'm still trying to sort out that duty/tax/interest i paid on the block, waiting for a letter to come through with all the break down of the fees.


----------



## _cycl0ne

Any update on 6800/6900 blocks?


----------



## Section31

_cycl0ne said:


> Any update on 6800/6900 blocks?


They posted an update to there german forum. It was in progress. Hardwareluxx.de

Theres two rep - one being marcus/the owner (saw on hardwareluxx) and the rep here daniel.


----------



## djwarreng

Wow...the nickel xc3 block looks amazing...I still prefer the black version but I love the design of this block....absolutely stunning...It was definitely worth the wait





HEATKILLER® V for EVGA XC3 RTX 3080/3090 - ACRYL Ni aRGB, 174,95 €


Watercool HEATKILLER V Grafikkartenkühler für die aktuelle Nvidia Grafikkartengeneration der 3080/90 Serie. Neueste Revision des legendären GPU-Kühlers.




shop.watercool.de


----------



## Chiraq

Killer ^^ Wish they had one coming for 68/6900xt, like, right now. lol


----------



## Section31

djwarreng said:


> Wow...the nickel xc3 block looks amazing...I still prefer the black version but I love the design of this block....absolutely stunning...It was definitely worth the wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® V for EVGA XC3 RTX 3080/3090 - ACRYL Ni aRGB, 174,95 €
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER V Grafikkartenkühler für die aktuelle Nvidia Grafikkartengeneration der 3080/90 Serie. Neueste Revision des legendären GPU-Kühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478183
> 
> View attachment 2478184
> 
> View attachment 2478185
> 
> View attachment 2478186


They finally listened and made it look like there 20xx blocks.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> So in an attempt to bring temps down even more, i jerry rigged another 360 radiator i had spare to the loop on QD's It's a TX360 in push pull config. Surprisingly managed to drop temps down from 48-50c down to 41-42c. Doesn't make much of a difference atm as im power limited on my 3090 without a shunt mod but nice non the less to see significantly lower temps with a slim rad added to the loop. I'm waiting on a pci pass through so the tubes are dangling around loosely.


Is it actually feasible to do what you did with your QDC (one end is hard and one is soft)? I very much to do that on mine if its actually feasible.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Is it actually feasible to do what you did with your QDC (one end is hard and one is soft)? I very much to do that on mine if its actually feasible.


Yup works perfectly fine, i used ZMT because i dont need to worry about leeching from clear tubing. Gives me the flexibility to move the rad around too while keeping the aesthetics in the case clean.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Yup works perfectly fine, i used ZMT because i dont need to worry about leeching from clear tubing. Gives me the flexibility to move the rad around too while keeping the aesthetics in the case clean.


Thanks. I am doing hybrid soft/brass tubing based build too. So i can consider that option too.


----------



## MageTank

djwarreng said:


> Wow...the nickel xc3 block looks amazing...I still prefer the black version but I love the design of this block....absolutely stunning...It was definitely worth the wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® V for EVGA XC3 RTX 3080/3090 - ACRYL Ni aRGB, 174,95 €
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER V Grafikkartenkühler für die aktuelle Nvidia Grafikkartengeneration der 3080/90 Serie. Neueste Revision des legendären GPU-Kühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478183
> 
> View attachment 2478184
> 
> View attachment 2478185
> 
> View attachment 2478186


If they'd sell this without the nickel plating, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. I really prefer the copper aesthetic of the previous generation blocks and reference PCB's are next to impossible to find in the US.


----------



## paskowitz

djwarreng said:


> Wow...the nickel xc3 block looks amazing...I still prefer the black version but I love the design of this block....absolutely stunning...It was definitely worth the wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER® V for EVGA XC3 RTX 3080/3090 - ACRYL Ni aRGB, 174,95 €
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER V Grafikkartenkühler für die aktuelle Nvidia Grafikkartengeneration der 3080/90 Serie. Neueste Revision des legendären GPU-Kühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478183
> 
> View attachment 2478184
> 
> View attachment 2478185
> 
> View attachment 2478186


Damn. That's clean AF.


----------



## Felgor

MageTank said:


> If they'd sell this without the nickel plating, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. I really prefer the copper aesthetic of the previous generation blocks and reference PCB's are next to impossible to find in the US.


Email them...I asked a few months ago about a copper argb version and Jacob said to email about a custom order they could do in the next production run.


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> Thanks. I am doing hybrid soft/brass tubing based build too. So i can consider that option too.


I did this a few months back in my build. It certainly makes sense if you tinker a lot.


----------



## DaLiu

Where are the radiators, Heatkiller?


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Where are the radiators, Heatkiller?


Follow hardwareluxx forums. I see Rico and Markus post there frequently. WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo

Theres recent post there talking about the rads


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Where are the radiators, Heatkiller?











WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


, post: 28145664, member: 311030"] Wir wissen nicht immer exakt wann bspw. der Beschichter die Teile fertig hat. Wir haben damit zwar viel Erfahrung aber hin und wieder lässt es sich doch nicht ganz perfekt timen. Wir haben immer gleich viel Stress, völlig egal ob ich jetzt die Termine anpasse...




www.hardwareluxx.de





Big update on rads


----------



## djwarreng

love the look of these XC3 blocks...For the first time ever, I think the nickel may even look better than the black...but this one matches my build better, soo I'm sticking with the black


----------



## Section31

djwarreng said:


> love the look of these XC3 blocks...For the first time ever, I think the nickel may even look better than the black...but this one matches my build better, soo I'm sticking with the black
> View attachment 2479278
> 
> View attachment 2479279


They look nice. I think though hardwareluxx heatkiller product page is more useful than here (even if it in german). Apparently the stock xc3 blackplates work too.


----------



## paskowitz

While not as good looking as the reference 2080 TI block, the XC3 block is nice. Hopefully next gen's PCBs aren't as limiting logistically and aesthetically.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> While not as good looking as the reference 2080 TI block, the XC3 block is nice. Hopefully next gen's PCBs aren't as limiting logistically and aesthetically.











WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


Wollte nur mal fragen weil meine Karte wird hochkant stehen




www.hardwareluxx.de





At this point, i think its worth bookmarking the product info page for heatkiller on hardwareluxx than watch here. More information is going on there versus here. Google translate to english to see what's being said


----------



## paskowitz

Section31 said:


> WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo
> 
> 
> Wollte nur mal fragen weil meine Karte wird hochkant stehen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hardwareluxx.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, i think its worth bookmarking the product info page for heatkiller on hardwareluxx than watch here. More information is going on there versus here. Google translate to english to see what's being said


I've been doing that for a couple weeks now .


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> I've been doing that for a couple weeks now .


same here


----------



## Wuest3nFuchs

hi all !
what happened to the d5 rgb pump they Introduced? if i remember correctly winter 2019/2020.
...didnt had the time to read the last 120 posts of you all..sry

Gesendet von meinem SM-G950F mit Tapatalk


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Hey guys, sorry for the long silence, I will try to check in more often in the future. If you have any urgent requests, feel free to PM me here or on Facebook.

Short info about the radiators: We are entering the hot phase! Probably at the end of Q1 you will be able to buy the radiators in the sizes 120/240/360/480mm in our store. There will be three color versions. Besides the already shown version with brushed stainless steel, the radis will also be available in black and white with powder coating. Just a little more patience 










Regarding the FTW3 and AMD coolers: Please don't expect the FTW3 cooler during the next days. We still have some work to do here. For the AMD coolers we have some news to share soon.

About the D5 pump: The pump is still in work


----------



## ChiTownButcher

[QUOTE = "Watercool-Daniel, post: 28745355, member: 643689"]
Hey guys, sorry for the long silence, I will try to check in more often in the future. If you have any urgent requests, feel free to PM me here or on Facebook.

Short info about the radiators: We are entering the hot phase! Probably at the end of Q1 you will be able to buy the radiators in the sizes 120/240/360 / 480mm in our store. There will be three color versions. Besides the already shown version with polished stainless steel, the radis will also be available in black and white with powder coating. Just a little more patience: D

[ATTACH = full] 2479879 [/ ATTACH]

Regarding the FTW3 and AMD coolers: Please don't expect the FTW3 cooler during the next days. We still have some work to do here. For the AMD coolers we have some news to share soon.

About the D5 pump: The pump is still in work
[/ QUOTE]
And word on the thickness of the rads and how they perform (Thermal, Restriction, ect)? They look fantastic and if the rest is compelling enough I might swap out the rads I just got for those. Also are the logos pre-applied? I know it sounds silly and don't mind them being there, I just want them facing the right direction.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

The radiators will be available in 30mm and 50mm thickness. The Logo plates are mounted with 3M heavy duty adhesive tape. Therefore if you want to remove them you have to apply some force ^^


----------



## tiefox

Watercool-Daniel said:


> The radiators will be available in 30mm and 50mm thickness. The Logo plates are mounted with 3M heavy duty adhesive tape. Therefore if you want to remove them you have to apply some force ^^


What about the width and full length?
Want to make sure it will fit in my tight case, about to buy a rad now but can wait a few more weeks for these!


----------



## Chiraq

Any ETA on gpu blocks for XFX 6800XT cards?


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Hey guys, sorry for the long silence, I will try to check in more often in the future. If you have any urgent requests, feel free to PM me here or on Facebook.
> 
> Short info about the radiators: We are entering the hot phase! Probably at the end of Q1 you will be able to buy the radiators in the sizes 120/240/360/480mm in our store. There will be three color versions. Besides the already shown version with polished stainless steel, the radis will also be available in black and white with powder coating. Just a little more patience
> 
> Regarding the FTW3 and AMD coolers: Please don't expect the FTW3 cooler during the next days. We still have some work to do here. For the AMD coolers we have some news to share soon.
> 
> About the D5 pump: The pump is still in work


Good to hear radiators are close. Question about the colors. Are the colors "interchangeable" (side plate that can be taken off and swapped)? Regardless, it's really nice to see multiple colors offered. This is something sorely needed in the product category. I really hope the rads are successful and get some attention from the YT/mod community.

Thanks for the update on the FTW3 block. Some questions... no problem if you can't answer. Which do you think is more likely, before end of March or after? Do you plan on doing a single slot bracket like other 30#0 models? Do you think the "active" backplate, if still planned, will be available at the same time the block is? I will celebrate the day I no longer have to look at my hideous FTW3 air cooler.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> The radiators will be available in 30mm and 50mm thickness. The Logo plates are mounted with 3M heavy duty adhesive tape. Therefore if you want to remove them you have to apply some force ^^


Been following on hardwareluxx but again would like to know some benchmarks on how they perform say to an hwl gts360. I am patiently waiting for them to come out and got big group order coming in for it. Got couple more local people interested in your products.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

The new radis will perform great on low and medium fanspeed. We will answer all other questions on release.

There is still no ETA for the AMD blocks. And the FTW3 block will be released when its done. We are giving our best to make it happen by the end of march, but I cant make any promoieses. We ask for your understanding.


----------



## Section31

Hope its isolated incident








WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


@Sladen Bei mir sind die Pads, die dabei waren nicht rosa und Ram Temp ist bei ca 65-70 Grad. Pads sehen aus wie in dem Video hier: Bei mir waren die rosa pads dabei... Kompletter Müll... Muss ich nicht verstehen wieso watercool verschiedene pads beim gleichen kühler raus schickt...




www.hardwareluxx.de


----------



## Felgor

Section31 said:


> Hope its isolated incident
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo
> 
> 
> @Sladen Bei mir sind die Pads, die dabei waren nicht rosa und Ram Temp ist bei ca 65-70 Grad. Pads sehen aus wie in dem Video hier: Bei mir waren die rosa pads dabei... Kompletter Müll... Muss ich nicht verstehen wieso watercool verschiedene pads beim gleichen kühler raus schickt...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hardwareluxx.de


One dude ranting about thermal pads not making contact, but no photos and he didnt contact Watercool to ask. I wouldn't think twice about it.


----------



## Section31

Felgor said:


> One dude ranting about thermal pads not making contact, but no photos and he didnt contact Watercool to ask. I wouldn't think twice about it.


Appears so. Never expected ranters to start ranting about heatkiller stuff. That and the guy asking about rad pricing and where the rad made in.


----------



## Chiraq

PC cooling components are usually crap to medium anyway and alot of end users are pretty much technically uninclined parrots, BUT Heatkiller products are on the higher end. My HK IV cpu block is on par with Fstfrddy's stuff if anyone remembers those chunks. Very good. Cant wait to grab a gpu block.


----------



## Section31

Chiraq said:


> PC cooling components are usually crap to medium anyway and alot of end users are pretty much technically uninclined parrots, BUT Heatkiller products are on the higher end. My HK IV cpu block is on par with Fstfrddy's stuff if anyone remembers those chunks. Very good. Cant wait to grab a gpu block.


Its unfortunate we are seeing the parrots join the party. The reddit watercooling group being one of them.


----------



## Mxj1

Fellow reddit-whyamireadingthis-user checking in. Tinkered with the Mo-Ra and mounted my D5 Next, complete with new 7-conductor cable to give power and usb control.










...and the abomination of a 3900x and 3090 currently being cooled.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Fellow reddit-whyamireadingthis-user checking in. Tinkered with the Mo-Ra and mounted my D5 Next, complete with new 7-conductor cable to give power and usb control.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and the abomination of a 3900x and 3090 currently being cooled.


Lot of temporary builds nowadays. Nice work with your Mo-Ra


----------



## Liquid4rt

Just an update on the heatkiller V block after over a months worth of use so far. Freakin love it is all i have to say! Memory junction temps are good too surprisingly! The old alphacool block would be sitting around 88c(roughly) but the heatkiller block will keep it at 76c while gaming. I'm running a total of 1080 radiator space(Dual loop system) and it keeps the gpu temps as low as 38c while gaming. Mega happy with it and so worth the wait. 

The only thing i've noticed with this block/backplate is im getting a little coilwhine on desktop while moving the mouse around. Didn't before with the alphacool block or on the stock cooler. It is barely noticeable but it is defo there, more so when the tempered glass side panel is off as well.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Happy to read that you are pleased with the block  Great temps tho.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Happy to read that you are pleased with the block  Great temps tho.


Any plans for making flow sensors like Aquacomputers NEXT Vision on their gpu inlet/outlet manifolds? Quite intrigued to increase my watercool range with you guys.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Well, we are working on something  But this will surely take some time until we have something to show.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Well, we are working on something  But this will surely take some time until we have something to show.


Oh dont say that, the wait is gonna kill me. Hopefully we get all this postage and VAT stuff sorted with the UK as well. Its a mess right now.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Oh dont say that, the wait is gonna kill me. Hopefully we get all this postage and VAT stuff sorted with the UK as well. Its a mess right now.


Well there was that in development fan controller we haven’t heard anything about for couple years


----------



## Shawnb99

Gotta long way to go to bear AC in terms of monitoring. Aquasuite is just as important as the hardware.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Well, we are working on something  But this will surely take some time until we have something to show.


As we've seen with EK... having a controller isn't the problem, it's the software. I'm sure Watercool is capable of designing better hardware than EK and as good as AC... but it's going to take a pretty robust and clean software offering to get me to move away from Aquasuite. It does pretty much everything I want it to, without any big issues.

On the XC3s... I know dead horse. I assume the hold up ATM is the backplates? Seems like people in the EU and US are getting them which is nice to see.


----------



## djwarreng

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Well, we are working on something  But this will surely take some time until we have something to show.


Hey Daniel, i saw over at the hardwareluxx forum that many people who had pre-ordered the xc3 block + backplate had mentioned that their order had been shipped or delivered. I have sent a few emails to support wondering if there is any kind of firm shipping timeline for my order.
Not trying to be pushy, but I haven't received a response back and these people pre-ordered their blocks at a later date than me and already have them in hand.
order # is 32317


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

@djwarreng according to our team your order should be shipped next week 

@paskowitz the backplates were one of the reasons  We are getting back on track and our shipping department is working with full force.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> @djwarreng according to our team your order should be shipped next week
> 
> @paskowitz the backplates were one of the reasons  We are getting back on track and our shipping department is working with full force.


Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated .


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> @djwarreng according to our team your order should be shipped next week
> 
> @paskowitz the backplates were one of the reasons  We are getting back on track and our shipping department is working with full force.


How are XC3 supplies looking like. I am waiting for the release of the new radiators then i will be placing my order.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool-Daniel said:


> @djwarreng according to our team your order should be shipped next week
> 
> @paskowitz the backplates were one of the reasons  We are getting back on track and our shipping department is working with full force.


Is there any news on the actively cooled backplates? I'm holding off getting a 3rd party backplate block and hoping watercool will launch something soon.


----------



## matique

Finally got my heatkiller rig going. Sort of a temporary build, till my bigger sff case comes in that can support 2x 280 rads. Loving the heatkiller gear, temps are great and so is the build quality. Instructions were good too and shipping was quick from watercool.de direct. 

Build: 
FormD T1
AMD 5600x w/ Heatkiller Pro IV Black Copper
Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
Corsair 32GB 3733mhz C15-19-12-12
Corsair MP600 2TB
Corsair MP510 2TB
Corsair SF750
Zotac Trinity 3090 w/Heatkiller V + Backplate

Components:
Magicool G2 240
Noctua A12x15, F12
EKWB DDC 3.2 PWM
Barrow Integral DDC Pump Res
Alphacool TPV tubing
Alphacool TPV brass compression x5
Alphacool TPV nylon compression x2
Koolance 90 degree elbow fittings x2
EK 45 degree rotary x2
Barrow double 45 degree rotary
Barrow 45 degree rotary
Barrow 90 degree rotary x3
Barrow G1/4 water sensor
Barrow QDC (paired with external rad if i wanna push my 3090)
Aquacomputer Quadro


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

@Liquid4rt there is no release date yet for the backplate.

@matique incredible how you fit that much hardware in such a small case


----------



## matique

Watercool-Daniel said:


> @Liquid4rt there is no release date yet for the backplate.
> 
> @matique incredible how you fit that much hardware in such a small case


Heh thank you. It was a challenge but i am glad i made it fit. I was the guy that was so disappointed there isn't a 280 HK rad hahaha. I hope the HK active backplate comes soon, but I'd rather you guys take your time and get it right. Do it once, do it well. Also, hope it comes too for the trinity too and not just the reference. Would it be an integrated terminal + backplate setup?


----------



## deme

Wait, are we expecting an active backplate for the 3080/3090? That's awesome! Sign me up for the Trinity one as well!


----------



## Mxj1

this weekend I powder coated the brackets for the HKIV blocks I have. One set got gloss, and the other matte. The gloss is on the acrylic block, and the matte is on the full nickel block - no pics of it yet. 










installed in my wife's computer (3200G APU)


----------



## jvillaveces

I haven't been able to log in to watercool.de today. I get a message that "data doesn't tally". Is there something wrong with the site? Do I need to create a new account?


----------



## InfoSeeker

jvillaveces said:


> I haven't been able to log in to watercool.de today. I get a message that "data doesn't tally". Is there something wrong with the site? Do I need to create a new account?


Just tested and I get the same thing... it is probably an issue on their site... try tomorrow.


----------



## djwarreng

jvillaveces said:


> I haven't been able to log in to watercool.de today. I get a message that "data doesn't tally". Is there something wrong with the site? Do I need to create a new account?


I am able to log in


----------



## Mxj1

The Mora is done. No other improvements can be added... save for dual d5 pumps, but i also have a ddc in the case, so going to steer clear of that for now.










I'll need to take some better photos...


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> The Mora is done. No other improvements can be added... save for dual d5 pumps, but i also have a ddc in the case, so going to steer clear of that for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll need to take some better photos...


I wish next version of mo-ra has built in reservoir option. It looks more cleaner that way. Lot of areas for them to improve on. The fan mount need to be redesigned to fit the new super wide rgb fans.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool-Daniel said:


> @Liquid4rt there is no release date yet for the backplate.
> 
> @matique incredible how you fit that much hardware in such a small case


I really really hope your design is nothing like EK's lazy design for backplate cooling. They literally just slapped a rectangular block on the back and called it done... you could quite literally do that with any ramblock on the market right now. We need something thats innovative and looks great/melded in with the design. I believe in you guys!


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> I really really hope your design is nothing like EK's lazy design for backplate cooling. They literally just slapped a rectangular block on the back and called it done... you could quite literally do that with any ramblock on the market right now. We need something thats innovative and looks great/melded in with the design. I believe in you guys!


I think an water cooled backplate would be the most interesting.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> I think an water cooled backplate would be the most interesting.


Indeed, since the inlet/outlet manifold is removable as well it would be nice to see a complete unit that replaces this so the water connection is more seamless.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Section31 said:


> I wish next version of mo-ra has built in reservoir option. It looks more cleaner that way. Lot of areas for them to improve on. The fan mount need to be redesigned to fit the new super wide rgb fans.


I made a mounting plate that will hopefully make a more presentable solution.
It is out being powder-coated atm, will post a pic when it is assembled.


----------



## Barefooter

InfoSeeker said:


> I made a mounting plate that will hopefully make a more presentable solution.
> It is out being powder-coated atm, will post a pic when it is assembled.
> View attachment 2482157


Nice fab work there InfoSeeker! Looking forward to seeing it with everything mounted up and a nice powder coating.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Barefooter said:


> Nice fab work there InfoSeeker! Looking forward to seeing it with everything mounted up and a nice powder coating.


I don't want to mislead... I designed the thing and sent it out to a CNC shop to make.

Local shop quoted me around $400 to make it. 
Luckily I found metalscut4u.com who made it for $79 + shipping. 
I highly recommend them, easy to work with.
Their online design software is fail atm, they are upgrading soon.
Send him a design and ask for quote.
Attaching my design sketch.


----------



## Barefooter

InfoSeeker said:


> I don't want to mislead... I designed the thing and sent it out to a CNC shop to make.
> 
> Local shop quoted me around $400 to make it.
> Luckily I found metalscut4u.com who made it for $79 + shipping.
> I highly recommend them, easy to work with.
> Their online design software is fail atm, they are upgrading soon.
> Send him a design and ask for quote.
> Attaching my design sketch.


Well $79 for that custom work is cheap! Bookmarked them for future reference


----------



## storm-chaser




----------



## Chiraq

^^^ Yup thats the one. Awesome piece! 

Hey Watercool Daniel & crew, get crackin on the XFX Merc 6800XT blocks! If they are done by april I'll put a full width Heatkiller logo on my windshield. 

No ****.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Would love to see more of the new radiators.


----------



## MageTank

storm-chaser said:


>


I am such a huge fan of this block. My pictures aren't as fancy, but this is mine (getting my loop back up & running after cutting some copper pipes, still working on bending & sanding them)









Need to get some custom sleeved silver/copper colored cables for my PSU to tie this all together.


----------



## Shawnb99

Barefooter said:


> Well $79 for that custom work is cheap! Bookmarked them for future reference


At that price I'm thinking if they can reproduce some Caselab parts.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> At that price I'm thinking if they can reproduce some Caselab parts.


My thought also


----------



## storm-chaser

MageTank said:


> I am such a huge fan of this block. My pictures aren't as fancy, but this is mine (getting my loop back up & running after cutting some copper pipes, still working on bending & sanding them)
> View attachment 2482593
> 
> 
> Need to get some custom sleeved silver/copper colored cables for my PSU to tie this all together.


Sounds like an interest project. I think copper tubing here would really make it "pop" ... that is what you are doing right? Using copper piping for your loop?


----------



## MageTank

storm-chaser said:


> Sounds like an interest project. I think copper tubing here would really make it "pop" ... that is what you are doing right? Using copper piping for your loop?


Yeah, 5/8 Type L copper piping with some monsoon imperial chrome fittings. Trying to figure out the loop order now, using 2x240mm rads and 2x360mm rads with a CPU block, GPU block and memory block. This is my current plan:










I know I am going into the GPU outlet, but in my personal testing, I only saw a 1-2C penalty for reversing the flow on this block. 

On a side note, anyone know where to get some decent custom cable sleeving here in the states? I'd like to get a silver/copper pattern on some cables, might buy sleeved extenders to keep my current PSU and allow myself to upgrade later on. Definitely loving these heatkiller blocks though, hoping I can get my hands on a reference PCB 3000 series card so I can use that copper/nickel 3080 block.


----------



## Mxj1

I've purchased atx cables sleeved from ensourced and itx cables from pslate customs.

If you want to sleeve your own, grab some 550 paracord from paracord planet.


----------



## ppkstat

My new heatkiller tube (with multiport attached) almost drove me insane. It was failing air leak testing and I could not find the leak. I used soapy water on all seams and plugs but got nothing.
Next I 've set up a basic loop with the multiport, outlet of the res->top>inside the glass via the tube. There were no leaks but the unit could not bleed properly, probably due to the fact that air was somewhere introduced to the system.
As a last resort I pressurized the unit and prayed it with soapy water in case I find the leak. The leak quickly revealed itself, it was on the top of the unit where the glass meets the multiport top.






The issue has been addressed here before and the official answer was the following:



Watercool-Jakob said:


> There are several things here:
> First of all, to set the theoretical basis here: we all need to understand that "leakfree" does not exist. No connection known to mankind is leakfree. In engineering, leak rates are defined as "how much of which material leaks under which pressure over which time". As you see, there are four variables in this term: quantity, material, pressure and time. Under these four variables, you can define which leak rate is acceptable for your application. This, for example, is the reason why every watercooling loop will loose water over time: the NBR o-rings have a leak rate, as well. And so does PVC or EPDM tubing: your loop DOES leak through both your tubes and your -rings - it's just so little quantity and so slow that it doesn't matter.
> 
> Secondly, there is an inherent problem with the commercial pressure drop products: they come with several connections on their own. You usually connect the pump, the gauge, the ball valves with fittings of some sorts. All these connections and all these parts themselves can be leaking air on themselves. Seeing a pressure drop does only indicate that the SYSTEM is loosing pressure, not necessarily the product that is being put to test. Users usually only operate with these pressure drop products once: when assembling a loop. They usually have very little experience with them. So getting false-negative results can very often be traced back to incorrect assembly or handling.
> 
> Now, after we got these two base parameters out of the way, let's assume that Dante444 used the Leak Tester correctly, so there actually is a drop loss in the Reservoir. This still does by all means not necessarily mean that the reservoir is defect. So, what could be the problem?
> The Heatkiller reservoir in it's standard edition has a wide opening in the top that can be opened by hand. This opening is sealed with a very small o-ring. This o-ring is absolutely not designed to hold pressurized air - hell, it's not even designed to hold water! It is only there to close the lid tight. We assume that this o-ring might be the weak spot when stressed with pressurized air. Is this a problem? not at all. This part of the loop will never be under the coolant level (or the pump would run dry). So while the Leak Tester technically gives a leak, it is completely within specs: the "leak" was never meant to hold water, to begin with. Even more: it is a benefit that air pressure can normalize over this. Else, you would have negative pressure in your reservoir over time, and this makes it incredibly hard to ever open the reservoir again.
> 
> So, as stated via email, we recommend testing the reservoir in it's designated usecase, when in doubt: vertically, filled with water. I am very sure that you will find that it does not leak water at all.
> 
> 
> (btw, fun fact: we test all our components with 2bar (~30psi) of air pressure, including the reservoirs. They do not leak under that pressure. Sounds weird? Yup, it is. We assume that 2bar put that much stress on the o-ring that it deforms so strongly that it actually holds the seal, while 0,5bar does just not put ENOUGH stress on it. Remember how I said that the term "leakfree" comes under a number of conditions and with several variables in the beginning and that the same item can be "leaking" and "leakfree" when changing these variables?)


This may not apply here as I am not using the standard port but the multiport. When using a multiport and an internal tube the system must be airtight. If its not then you'll get either a leak or air being introduced to the system, it depends if the internal tube is set up as suction or an outlet. The fact that it's not leaking water does not mean anything is such a case. Mine was not leaking water but it was completely unusable because it could not bleed properly. I contacted support but I didn't receive an answer, it's been two days now.

Fortunately I found the solution thanks to @ThrashZone. I lubricated the glass orings with some water and the problem was solved. Its completely air-tight now.

I spent nearly a whole week of my life in this. I think it's something that has to be addressed by the company instead of blaming leak testers, assuming user errors and stating that problems arise when air testing with low pressure (0.5 bar) because the orings do not deform enough to seal properly.


----------



## paskowitz

Any US folks get tracking numbers for their XC3 blocks/backplates? Haven't seen anything online for a week or two.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Jakob said:


> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> There are several things here:
> First of all, to set the theoretical basis here: we all need to understand that "leakfree" does not exist. No connection known to mankind is leakfree. In engineering, leak rates are defined as "how much of which material leaks under which pressure over which time". As you see, there are four variables in this term: quantity, material, pressure and time. Under these four variables, you can define which leak rate is acceptable for your application. This, for example, is the reason why every watercooling loop will loose water over time: the NBR o-rings have a leak rate, as well. And so does PVC or EPDM tubing: your loop DOES leak through both your tubes and your -rings - it's just so little quantity and so slow that it doesn't matter.
> 
> Secondly, there is an inherent problem with the commercial pressure drop products: they come with several connections on their own. You usually connect the pump, the gauge, the ball valves with fittings of some sorts. All these connections and all these parts themselves can be leaking air on themselves. Seeing a pressure drop does only indicate that the SYSTEM is loosing pressure, not necessarily the product that is being put to test. Users usually only operate with these pressure drop products once: when assembling a loop. They usually have very little experience with them. So getting false-negative results can very often be traced back to incorrect assembly or handling.
> 
> Now, after we got these two base parameters out of the way, let's assume that Dante444 used the Leak Tester correctly, so there actually is a drop loss in the Reservoir. This still does by all means not necessarily mean that the reservoir is defect. So, what could be the problem?
> The Heatkiller reservoir in it's standard edition has a wide opening in the top that can be opened by hand. This opening is sealed with a very small o-ring. This o-ring is absolutely not designed to hold pressurized air - hell, it's not even designed to hold water! It is only there to close the lid tight. We assume that this o-ring might be the weak spot when stressed with pressurized air. Is this a problem? not at all. This part of the loop will never be under the coolant level (or the pump would run dry). So while the Leak Tester technically gives a leak, it is completely within specs: the "leak" was never meant to hold water, to begin with. Even more: it is a benefit that air pressure can normalize over this. Else, you would have negative pressure in your reservoir over time, and this makes it incredibly hard to ever open the reservoir again.
> 
> So, as stated via email, we recommend testing the reservoir in it's designated usecase, when in doubt: vertically, filled with water. I am very sure that you will find that it does not leak water at all.
> 
> 
> (btw, fun fact: we test all our components with 2bar (~30psi) of air pressure, including the reservoirs. They do not leak under that pressure. Sounds weird? Yup, it is. We assume that 2bar put that much stress on the o-ring that it deforms so strongly that it actually holds the seal, while 0,5bar does just not put ENOUGH stress on it. Remember how I said that the term "leakfree" comes under a number of conditions and with several variables in the beginning and that the same item can be "leaking" and "leakfree" when changing these variables?)


This explanation goes against the Laws of Physics. The manner in which the reservoir O-rings are retained has compression applied by the struts/screws. Increasing the pressure inside the reservoir will increase pressure on the struts/screws, and tend to reduce pressure on the O-rings for both the tube and the lid, not increase it.


----------



## srg3037

paskowitz said:


> Any US folks get tracking numbers for their XC3 blocks/backplates? Haven't seen anything online for a week or two.


Mine (block and backplate) was shipped last Friday. It is scheduled to be delivered today. I pre-ordered on 12/10/2020.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

@ppkstat Nice to read that you found a solution. I forwarded your post and the video to our product team. They will have a look! If you run into issues again, dont hesitate to contact our support: [email protected] !

@Chiraq I'm sorry if I have to shatter your dreams, but I dont think the AMD blocks will be ready by april  😱


----------



## coccosoids

Is there a significant difference between Mo-ra3 420 vs. Mo-ra3 360 in terms of cooling performance?
My loop will consist of 1x10940x cpu + 2x3090 gpus. 
Will the 360 handle the ~1000W or should I seriously consider the 420?
Thank you.


----------



## Section31

coccosoids said:


> Is there a significant difference between Mo-ra3 420 vs. Mo-ra3 360 in terms of cooling performance?
> My loop will consist of 1x10940x cpu + 2x3090 gpus.
> Will the 360 handle the ~1000W or should I seriously consider the 420?
> Thank you.


Just go Mo-Ra3 420 if you can. If you need the extra cooling afterwards, it will just cost more and you paid double.


----------



## InfoSeeker

coccosoids said:


> Is there a significant difference between Mo-ra3 420 vs. Mo-ra3 360 in terms of cooling performance?
> My loop will consist of 1x10940x cpu + 2x3090 gpus.
> Will the 360 handle the ~1000W or should I seriously consider the 420?
> Thank you.


With the cost of the components you are cooling, I know the 30 euro delta is not an issue. If your environment can handle the additional 60mm length and 47mm height, I agree with @Section 31, go for the daddy... you can't have too much cooling.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

coccosoids said:


> Is there a significant difference between Mo-ra3 420 vs. Mo-ra3 360 in terms of cooling performance?
> My loop will consist of 1x10940x cpu + 2x3090 gpus.
> Will the 360 handle the ~1000W or should I seriously consider the 420?
> Thank you.


I agree with the last comments. There is no substitute for cooling surface, the more the better, especially with your system specs. If you have the space go for the 420.


----------



## Chiraq

Watercool-Daniel said:


> @ppkstat Nice to read that you found a solution. I forwarded your post and the video to our product team. They will have a look! If you run into issues again, dont hesitate to contact our support: [email protected] !
> 
> @Chiraq I'm sorry if I have to shatter your dreams, but I dont think the AMD blocks will be ready by april  😱


Danke schön Daniel. It's not a dream it's a matter of which block I can grab first. Alphacool have announced 3-4 weeks now until the XFX Merc blocks are launched. That said I would prefer yours, but if yours are like may, june, I'm not gonna be able to hold on any longer...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Daniel said:


> I agree with the last comments. There is no substitute for cooling surface, the more the better, especially with your system specs. If you have the space go for the 420.


I made an agregious error assuming the 420 had greater tube length and fin area than the 360.

But going back and looking at the specifications for the MO-RA3 360 LT and the MO-RA3 420 LT on the webshop, the tubing and fin specifications for both appear to be identical (quoted below), with only fan size being different.

The 360:


> Nothing beats surface
> 
> To cool big heat loads like that, you require big amounts of material. In one MO-RA3, we use over 36 meters (118 ft) of copper pipes, connected to more than 3 square meter (33 sq ft) of aluminum fins. The fin geometry is optimized for fans with low rotations per minute.
> We organized the copper pipes in four parallel rows to minimize the flow restriction. The coolant flows through 80 parallel pipes which transfer the heat to the cooling fins. The massive overall surface guarantees high cooling performance!


The 420:


> Nothing beats surface
> 
> To cool big heat loads like that, you require big amounts of material. In one MO-RA3, we use over 36 meters (118 ft) of copper pipes, connected to more than 3 square meter (33 sq ft) of aluminum fins. The fin geometry is optimized for fans with low rotations per minute.
> We organized the copper pipes in four parallel rows to minimize the flow restriction. The coolant flows through 80 parallel pipes which transfer the heat to the cooling fins. The massive overall surface guarantees high cooling performance!


EDIT:
OK, another erroneous assumption is the data on the webshop are correct. Looking at pictures of the MO-RA3 360 Core and the MO-RA3 420 Core, it appears the 360 has 8 columns of 4 tube pairs while the 420 has 9 columns of 4 tube pairs.


360420


----------



## coccosoids

InfoSeeker said:


> I made an agregious error assuming the 420 had greater tube length and fin area than the 360.
> 
> But going back and looking at the specifications for the MO-RA3 360 LT and the MO-RA3 420 LT on the webshop, the tubing and fin specifications for both appear to be identical (quoted below), with only fan size being different.
> 
> The 360:
> 
> The 420:
> 
> EDIT:
> OK, another erroneous assumption is the data on the webshop are correct. Looking at pictures of the MO-RA3 360 Core and the MO-RA3 420 Core, it appears the 360 has 8 columns of 4 tube pairs while the 420 has 9 columns of 4 tube pairs.
> 
> 
> 360420


Hmm... very good find. Let's wait for Watercool to respond to this. The 420 will clearly be better every time, I would have just liked to know by _how much_.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

@InfoSeeker the 360 Mora uses 28 meters of copper pipes, connected to more than 2,5 square meter of aluminum fins. This will be corrected soon.


----------



## coccosoids

Will there ever be a 3090 FE waterblock from Watercool?


----------



## Section31

coccosoids said:


> Will there ever be a 3090 FE waterblock from Watercool?


no


----------



## coccosoids

Section31 said:


> no


Thank you. If someone from Watercool can enforce this then I know what I need to move on to.


----------



## coccosoids

Watercool has two offerings for EPDM 13/10MM tubing on their site:

HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 13/10 (ID3/8") schwarz - 3m Retailbox
and
EPDM Tubing ID 3/8" - 1/2" OD (13/10mm) black matte

I have three questions:
1. are they compatible with EK 10/13mm soft tubing fittings or do I need to get something different?
2. what are the main differences between the two offerings and is one definitely recommended over the other?
3. can I use these tubings to connect my waterblocks as well, otherwise why are they only available under the radiators section?

Thank you!


----------



## InfoSeeker

coccosoids said:


> Watercool has two offerings for EPDM 13/10MM tubing on their site:
> 
> HEATKILLER EPDM Tubing 13/10 (ID3/8") schwarz - 3m Retailbox
> and
> EPDM Tubing ID 3/8" - 1/2" OD (13/10mm) black matte
> 
> I have three questions:
> 1. are they compatible with EK 10/13mm soft tubing fittings or do I need to get something different?
> 2. what are the main differences between the two offerings and is one definitely recommended over the other?
> 3. can I use these tubings to connect my waterblocks as well, otherwise why are they only available under the radiators section?
> 
> Thank you!


1: Match types:

10/13mm tubing is compatible with 10/13mm compression fittings and 10mm barbs/13mm clamps
10/13mm tubing may be used with 3/8" barbs &1/2" clamps
3/8"-1/2" tubing is compatible with 3/8"-1/2" compression fittings and 3/8" barbs/1/2" clamps
3/8"-1/2" tubing may be used with 10mm barbs & 13mm clamps
2. The first number set is the actual measurements and the second is an approximation:

10/13mm = 0.394"/0.512"
3/8"-1/2" = 0.375"/0.500" = 9.525mm/12.700mm
recommendation is to use metric tubing with metric fittings & vice versa
3. Yes, anywhere you can attach a fitting you can use tubing. Listing location is probably an oversight, it should have it's own category


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

coccosoids said:


> Thank you. If someone from Watercool can enforce this then I know what I need to move on to.


Section31 is right, we dont offer gpu blocks for the Nvdidia 3080/3090 FE cards.


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Section31 is right, we dont offer gpu blocks for the Nvdidia 3080/3090 FE cards.


People don’t really follow this thread or the one on hardwareluxx. Unfortunate whats going on there with recent postings by users.


----------



## jvillaveces

It's the utmost irony that customers impatient for a product they want to buy from a vendor unable to produce it in time, are seen as the immature, unreasonable, aggressors, while the delinquent vendors are perceived as the innocent victims.


----------



## coccosoids

Section31 said:


> People don’t really follow this thread or the one on hardwareluxx. Unfortunate whats going on there with recent postings by users.





jvillaveces said:


> It's the utmost irony that customers impatient for a product they want to buy from a vendor unable to produce it in time, are seen as the immature, unreasonable, aggressors, while the delinquent vendors are perceived as the innocent victims.


If these are related to my recent queries then please direct it at me.
Otherwise, I should note that neither @Watercool-Daniel nor @Section31 understood my question. I did not ask whether there _are _any 3090 FE water blocks, as in now in the present, I asked if there will ever be any, as in _then _in the future.


----------



## Shawnb99

jvillaveces said:


> It's the utmost irony that customers impatient for a product they want to buy from a vendor unable to produce it in time, are seen as the immature, unreasonable, aggressors, while the delinquent vendors are perceived as the innocent victims.


It's not irony when it's deserved. It's ironic you use terms you don't understand like *Delinquent* describes something or someone who fails to accomplish that which is required by law, duty, or contractual agreement, such as the failure to make a required payment or perform a particular action. Having a product get delayed during a pandemic isn't delinquent and you calling it that is why you get labeled as immature, unreasonable, aggressors


----------



## InfoSeeker

coccosoids said:


> If these are related to my recent queries then please direct it at me.
> Otherwise, I should note that neither @Watercool-Daniel nor @Section31 understood my question. I did not ask whether there _are _any 3090 FE water blocks, as in now in the present, I asked if there will ever be any, as in _then _in the future.


I thought @Watercool-Daniel's reply was clear, WC does not offer a 3090 FE block, not too much ambiguity there.


----------



## InfoSeeker

jvillaveces said:


> It's the utmost irony that customers impatient for a product they want to buy from a vendor unable to produce it in time, are seen as the immature, unreasonable, aggressors, while the delinquent vendors are perceived as the innocent victims.


Bit of a woke position?


----------



## Section31

InfoSeeker said:


> Bit of a woke position?


Probably shouldn't say that, too much of that on the internet. They can vote with there wallot if its important to them.


----------



## Section31

coccosoids said:


> If these are related to my recent queries then please direct it at me.
> Otherwise, I should note that neither @Watercool-Daniel nor @Section31 understood my question. I did not ask whether there _are _any 3090 FE water blocks, as in now in the present, I asked if there will ever be any, as in _then _in the future.


My opinion is that if you are going FE, your current options are all you have. EKWB one is probably best choice. I wouldn't put much faith in Optimus FE Block since its probably behind even Ryzen 6000 Blocks and they are only getting Strix ready (followed by KPE)


----------



## jvillaveces

Shawnb99 said:


> It's not irony when it's deserved. It's ironic you use terms you don't understand like *Delinquent* describes something or someone who fails to accomplish that which is required by law, duty, or contractual agreement, such as the failure to make a required payment or perform a particular action. Having a product get delayed during a pandemic isn't delinquent and you calling it that is why you get labeled as immature, unreasonable, aggressors


I guess I do understand the meaning of the word, because that is precisely the sense in which I used it. But that is where the problem lies: instead of considering supply and demand a business problem, and the individual decisions of vendors and consumers a related business problem, all of a sudden the discussion has become about accusing or excusing vendors for their inability or unwillingness to meet demand, and accusing consumers for voicing their frustration at their inability to have their demand met by vendors, or for expecting them to keep their promises. All of a sudden it's no longer a commercial issue but a moral one? I do find this ironic, perhaps a sign of the times...


----------



## jvillaveces

coccosoids said:


> If these are related to my recent queries then please direct it at me.
> Otherwise, I should note that neither @Watercool-Daniel nor @Section31 understood my question. I did not ask whether there _are _any 3090 FE water blocks, as in now in the present, I asked if there will ever be any, as in _then _in the future.


Sorry if you felt attacked. I wan´t directing my remarks at you, but rather reacting to a few posts back where there was a reference to the latest exchanges in the hardwareluxx board.


----------



## Shawnb99

jvillaveces said:


> I guess I do understand the meaning of the word, because that is precisely the sense in which I used it. But that is where the problem lies: instead of considering supply and demand a business problem, and the individual decisions of vendors and consumers a related business problem, all of a sudden the discussion has become about accusing or excusing vendors for their inability or unwillingness to meet demand, and accusing consumers for voicing their frustration at their inability to have their demand met by vendors, or for expecting them to keep their promises. All of a sudden it's no longer a commercial issue but a moral one? I do find this ironic, perhaps a sign of the times...


I must of missed the part where they signed a contract to produce GPU blocks by a set date. Or maybe that's a new law. I admit I don't always keep up with the latest BS... I mean news.

Not sure how this become a moral issue but then again I don't understand much of your argument or if you even have one.


----------



## Darb

Been running a Heatkiller build for 1 month now. 2080 Super water block, 150 D5 reservoir, and a AMD block for a Ryzen 5900. Very happy with my temps. I am overclocking the 5900 25% and the GPU 33%. After hours of 1440 gaming temps always stabilize at 37C for the CPU and 38C for the GPU. My next build I want to wall mount one of these. Watercool MO-RA3 LT black, 199,95 €. My question is how much gap should I leave between the wall and rad. Planning on the fans pushing the air thru the rad exiting towards the wall.


----------



## Ninhalem

That's a clean looking build! Did you sight bend the tubes or use a jig?

I would be hesitant to mount the rad close to the wall because as the "hot" air exits the fins on the wall side, the flow will bend back around to the front side and get sucked back in the intake.

Edit: You could try angling the mounting so that the rad is at a 20 or 30 degree angle with the wall that would allow the hot air to not feed back into your intake. Poor diagram below. This would be looking at the side of the radiator along the wall.


----------



## Bravoroni

Ok guys I got a noob / stupid question. I was just about to install my new HeatKiller IV pro Black copper AM4 and realized it doesn’t come with a back plate. Am I supposed to just use my motherboards back plate?


----------



## Chiraq

Bravoroni said:


> Ok guys I got a noob / stupid question. I was just about to install my new HeatKiller IV pro Black copper AM4 and realized it doesn’t come with a back plate. Am I supposed to just use my motherboards back plate?


Yep


----------



## Darb

Ninhalem said:


> That's a clean looking build! Did you sight bend the tubes or use a jig?
> 
> I would be hesitant to mount the rad close to the wall because as the "hot" air exits the fins on the wall side, the flow will bend back around to the front side and get sucked back in the intake.
> 
> Edit: You could try angling the mounting so that the rad is at a 20 or 30 degree angle with the wall that would allow the hot air to not feed back into your intake. Poor diagram below. This would be looking at the side of the radiator along the wall.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483632


Good idea! I used a jig for ally bends. Attempted a couple of free hand bends. They ended up in the junk pile LOL.


----------



## MageTank

Darb said:


> View attachment 2483628
> 
> Been running a Heatkiller build for 1 month now. 2080 Super water block, 150 D5 reservoir, and a AMD block for a Ryzen 5900. Very happy with my temps. I am overclocking the 5900 25% and the GPU 33%. After hours of 1440 gaming temps always stabilize at 37C for the CPU and 38C for the GPU. My next build I want to wall mount one of these. Watercool MO-RA3 LT black, 199,95 €. My question is how much gap should I leave between the wall and rad. Planning on the fans pushing the air thru the rad exiting towards the wall.


Very nice! wish I had a way to make a jig for copper piping but it was a bit of a pain to bend even after annealing and using a large pipe bender. Here is my current setup:









I am still thinking about redoing that CPU to GPU run with a straight tube instead, not sure I like the excess fittings and off-angle. I also need to get some cable combs to tame the mess of my cables.


----------



## Darb

MageTank said:


> Very nice! wish I had a way to make a jig for copper piping but it was a bit of a pain to bend even after annealing and using a large pipe bender. Here is my current setup:
> View attachment 2483646
> 
> 
> I am still thinking about redoing that CPU to GPU run with a straight tube instead, not sure I like the excess fittings and off-angle. I also need to get some cable combs to tame the mess of my cables.


Love the look of the copper. Nice smooth angles
Is the piping raw or has a coating to prevent tarnishing?


----------



## MageTank

Darb said:


> Love the look of the copper. Nice smooth angles
> Is the piping raw or has a coating to prevent tarnishing?


Right now it is raw (just polished with some steel wool and brasso). I have some brass lacquer that I plan to coat the pipes with once I am satisfied with the final layout of the runs. I am trying to reduce my reliance on fittings to show off the copper some more, but I ran out of compression fittings so I need to get more. This is actually my first real hardline system as I've only really done soft tubing with my MORA3 back in the day. Jumped off the deep end a bit, lol.


----------



## Darb

MageTank said:


> Right now it is raw (just polished with some steel wool and brasso). I have some brass lacquer that I plan to coat the pipes with once I am satisfied with the final layout of the runs. I am trying to reduce my reliance on fittings to show off the copper some more, but I ran out of compression fittings so I need to get more. This is actually my first real hardline system as I've only really done soft tubing with my MORA3 back in the day. Jumped off the deep end a bit, lol.


Looks great. Love the look. Well done.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Any news on the 6900 blocks? I did have a look through the thread but couldn't see anything (sorry if I missed it).


----------



## paskowitz

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Any news on the 6900 blocks? I did have a look through the thread but couldn't see anything (sorry if I missed it).


No concrete word, but AMD is next in the GPU block list, then 30## FTW3. I'd assume late April early May. Then probably late May early June for FTW3????? Sucks, since the FTW3 was the first block announced. Is what it is.


----------



## Section31

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Any news on the 6900 blocks? I did have a look through the thread but couldn't see anything (sorry if I missed it).


Follow the hardwareluxx ones. Its more up to date than here


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I think I'm finally ready to make the investment into a Mo-Ra setup. Question on fans, is it worth going 200mm fans on the 420? Or is it better to run 140mm fans? Looking the Noctua NF-A20 in black on watercool's website.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> I think I'm finally ready to make the investment into a Mo-Ra setup. Question on fans, is it worth going 200mm fans on the 420? Or is it better to run 140mm fans? Looking the Noctua NF-A20 in black on watercool's website.


Better order soon. Apparently they are increasing prices lol. Check out Hardwareluxx forum


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> Better order soon. Apparently they are increasing prices lol. Check out Hardwareluxx forum


Have everything I need sitting in the cart ready to go. Just need an answer on fans. Should have bought this last year when I was thinking about it. Exchange rate was a lot better.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Have everything I need sitting in the cart ready to go. Just need an answer on fans. Should have bought this last year when I was thinking about it. Exchange rate was a lot better.


i would order without fans lol. The 200mm fan mount isn't expensive add on to get from them.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Section31 said:


> i would order without fans lol. The 200mm fan mount isn't expensive add on to get from them.


Any suggestions on 140mm fans for sub 1000rpm? Finding stock on anything right now is a pain, was trying to make this easy on myself. Tempted to just buy the mora 360 because I have plenty of fans in that size but it doesn't support the dual pump bracket.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Any suggestions on 140mm fans for sub 1000rpm? Finding stock on anything right now is a pain, was trying to make this easy on myself. Tempted to just buy the mora 360 because I have plenty of fans in that size but it doesn't support the dual pump bracket.


Arctic Bionix P140, Arctic Cooling P14, LianLi SL140 (for easy cable management), Noctua A20. Pick your choice. You got to consider cable management too. One guy here did nice job of combining the cables or you can go indepedent method like seperate fan controller (aquacomputer/lianli controller).


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Just bought it with the A20s. That exchange rate hurts. Would love to get the SL140s, I have the 120s in my case right now but they're botted and scalped for $40-50 per fan.


----------



## Mxj1

I went with the a20s in push/pull on mine. I'm happy with the sounds and performance.


----------



## Section31

Edge0fsanity said:


> Just bought it with the A20s. That exchange rate hurts. Would love to get the SL140s, I have the 120s in my case right now but they're botted and scalped for $40-50 per fan.


Only thing with sl140 is this. The mounting mechanism is creative due to fans being too wide.
I had to do three in one row screwed in one direction then the bottom screwed in one direction and then squeeze the middle in and screw it in one direction. Use gravity to hold the rest in


----------



## InfoSeeker

Edge0fsanity said:


> Just bought it with the A20s. That exchange rate hurts. Would love to get the SL140s, I have the 120s in my case right now but they're botted and scalped for $40-50 per fan.


Noctua has an OUTLET on Amazon (STORE_FRONT)... most likely free shipping ($25 & up sans Prime).


----------



## Mxj1

I get all my noctua products from Amazon. They're usually cheaper than any of the distributors, and free prime shipping..


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> I get all my noctua products from Amazon. They're usually cheaper than any of the distributors, and free prime shipping..


I kind of am waiting for noctua to announce/release 140mm version of a12x25 with lianli daisy chaining feature. I kind of wonder if keeping 1900rpm fans on the mo-ra3 was better idea.


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> I kind of am waiting for noctua to announce/release 140mm version of a12x25 with lianli daisy chaining feature. I kind of wonder if keeping 1900rpm fans on the mo-ra3 was better idea.


I just modified all off the extension cables to connect via one for pin connector.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I kind of am waiting for noctua to announce/release 140mm version of a12x25 with lianli daisy chaining feature. I kind of wonder if keeping 1900rpm fans on the mo-ra3 was better idea.


I'm waiting on Noctua to not charge extra for black models and then skimp on the extras included. I'm likely waiting forever for that. Not happy paying more for a color change and then lose out on the rubber fan mounts and stuff.
Is the daisy chain like Lian Li in the plans?


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm waiting on Noctua to not charge extra for black models and then skimp on the extras included. I'm likely waiting forever for that. Not happy paying more for a color change and then lose out on the rubber fan mounts and stuff.
> Is the daisy chain like Lian Li in the plans?


Its an wish more than actual. The game of chasing minimal temp gains lol.?


----------



## Asunder

I've been hoping they did that for ages and eventually went with Arctic fans... just 3 of them are basically the price equivalent of a whole tier of quality jump for a different part like a better radiator or fittings/block. They're even more expensive now, so much that I would rather get NB e-loops, they have a smooth sound and at least as good dampening.


----------



## Fifise

Do we have any news about the release date of the HEATKILLER V FOR RTX 3080 EVGA FTW ?, I have been waiting for this block since November ... my card need cooling


----------



## paskowitz

Fifise said:


> Do we have any news about the release date of the HEATKILLER V FOR RTX 3080 EVGA FTW ?, I have been waiting for this block since November ... my card need cooling


All we know is it's coming after the AMD 6XXX block.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> All we know is it's coming after the AMD 6XXX block.


Yup and the radiator wait continues lol


----------



## Fifise

paskowitz said:


> All we know is it's coming after the AMD 6XXX block.


Ok, so by the time the block get out, the 3080ti will be out , if only the other block for 3080 FTW were not the ugly


----------



## Chiraq

paskowitz said:


> All we know is it's coming after the AMD 6XXX block.


I didnt know AMD came before anything but hell yeah thats great!


----------



## Fifise

Chiraq said:


> I didnt know AMD came before anything but hell yeah thats great!


Yep, I guess Watercool don't want my money, I have enough : I already waited 5 month and now a card that was release month later is prioritise
-> I order an EK block, there block are perhaps uglier and less good but at least it's exist.


----------



## deme

Fifise said:


> Yep, I guess Watercool don't want my money, I have enough : I already waited 5 month and now a card that was release month later is prioritise
> -> I order an EK block, there block are perhaps uglier and less good but at least it's exist.


Be careful with the EK block since I read horror stories with totaled EVGA FTW models in reddit. I would stay away from EK.


----------



## Chiraq

Fifise said:


> Yep, I guess Watercool don't want my money, I have enough : I already waited 5 month and now a card that was release month later is prioritise
> -> I order an EK block, there block are perhaps uglier and less good but at least it's exist.


In all fairness Heatkiller blocks IS a step up from EK blocks. The fans on my XFX 6800XT merc is really annoying but they will have to be alot louder before I consider EK block on a pricey gpu. Just sayin'.


----------



## coccosoids

Quick question on MO-RA 3 420: can I do pull config with 9 fans?


----------



## Mxj1

coccosoids said:


> Quick question on MO-RA 3 420: can I do pull config with 9 fans?


Yes.
In general, low speed fans > pull, high speed fans > push.


----------



## InfoSeeker

coccosoids said:


> Quick question on MO-RA 3 420: can I do pull config with 9 fans?


Yes, but you must be careful to seal around the fans to stop short cycling of the air (looping around the fan).

Pull-only is what I am doing for my Mo-Ra3 420 build (soon to be finished), and what I did for my current external radiator consisting of 3 airplex modularity system 420s, 2 with pumps and 1 without.

I set a gasket on the radiator, then I a shroud to create a plenum space between the fans and the radiator core. This leaves a gap between the shrouds, which I seal by running a bead of MOLYKOTE 111 between shrouds. Then an individual fan gasket for each fan/shroud, and you are good to go.

Building a plenum space between the radiator core and fans allows a more uniform low pressure area to build for better coverage of airflow across the core. If you set the fans directly on the radiator, the center fan area (motor) sees little, if any airflow.

The reason I use pull-only, is to keep dust from stacking up on the radiator core. I also use a filter on the entry side which can easily be cleaned to keep heat transfer at best. Don't want it too get to THIS.

With the current setup I see sub 5C on the coolant/ambient delta, with a fan rpm of 480 for standard conditions. Gaming I see up to 6C, with a fan a RPM upto 750. My current coolant flow is 2 lpm (120 lph), which is expected to increase when the Mo-Ra3 is brought online.

Here are a couple shots of my current external radiator. I like the integration of the pumps, but I think the coolant flow is not as efficient through the radiator as it will be the Mo-Ra3... we will see. (You can see dust build up on the filter)


----------



## EniGma1987

Has there been any kind of new word on the 3090 active backplate? I know it was said that it would take a while, but 6 months is going on quite a bit now with no even estimated release


----------



## paskowitz

EniGma1987 said:


> Has there been any kind of new word on the 3090 active backplate? I know it was said that it would take a while, but 6 months is going on quite a bit now with no even estimated release


Would be nice to know if they plan to release it along side the FTW3 block or if it's pushed back even further. Assuming the active backplate doesn't shift the position of the ports on the terminal, I'd rather the block just come out first if that is an option.


----------



## coccosoids

InfoSeeker said:


> Yes, but you must be careful to seal around the fans to stop short cycling of the air (looping around the fan).
> 
> Pull-only is what I am doing for my Mo-Ra3 420 build (soon to be finished), and what I did for my current external radiator consisting of 3 airplex modularity system 420s, 2 with pumps and 1 without.
> 
> I set a gasket on the radiator, then I a shroud to create a plenum space between the fans and the radiator core. This leaves a gap between the shrouds, which I seal by running a bead of MOLYKOTE 111 between shrouds. Then an individual fan gasket for each fan/shroud, and you are good to go.
> 
> Building a plenum space between the radiator core and fans allows a more uniform low pressure area to build for better coverage of airflow across the core. If you set the fans directly on the radiator, the center fan area (motor) sees little, if any airflow.
> 
> The reason I use pull-only, is to keep dust from stacking up on the radiator core. I also use a filter on the entry side which can easily be cleaned to keep heat transfer at best. Don't want it too get to THIS.
> 
> With the current setup I see sub 5C on the coolant/ambient delta, with a fan rpm of 480 for standard conditions. Gaming I see up to 6C, with a fan a RPM upto 750. My current coolant flow is 2 lpm (120 lph), which is expected to increase when the Mo-Ra3 is brought online.
> 
> Here are a couple shots of my current external radiator. I like the integration of the pumps, but I think the coolant flow is not as efficient through the radiator as it will be the Mo-Ra3... we will see. (You can see dust build up on the filter)
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484924
> View attachment 2484925


Thank you, I just did a ghetto 5 fan mount directly connected to motherboard headers for now because I ran out of time this weekend due to a lot of problems with the components I received. I will place some orders this week and maybe finish it this weekend when I will return to this post. 

Is this what you by 'plenum':








If so, do you really believe it's worth it? Did you measure performance before?


----------



## coccosoids

Boxed *Heatkiller IV Intel* waterblock missing mounting kit for* LGA 2066. *
Furthermore the manual has to be one of the most phlegmatically designed ones in the history of UX.
Screenshot from their manual for the 2066 platform:








My box is missing the big bolts in red. I do not know if the springs come in different sizes but the ones included are very long compared to what is illustrated.
At the moment I managed to use the old mounting mechanism with *studs *from an older EKWB Velocity block.

PS:
Here is another screenshot from their manual:








I do not see anywhere in the manual any mention of what the numbers represent. I suppose number 3 is what is missing from my package.


----------



## InfoSeeker

coccosoids said:


> Thank you, I just did a ghetto 5 fan mount directly connected to motherboard headers for now because I ran out of time this weekend due to a lot of problems with the components I received. I will place some orders this week and maybe finish it this weekend when I will return to this post.
> 
> Is this what you by 'plenum':
> View attachment 2485345
> 
> If so, do you really believe it's worth it? Did you measure performance before?


I am not sure what your schematic is trying to convey, particularly the red circle.

I have done no comparison tests regarding having a space between the fans and the radiator, but I have read about the disadvantage of placing a fan directly on the radiator core. It makes sense to me having a space for a more consistent pressure delta across the entire core is more efficient. Perhaps we have an aerodynamic expert in house?


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

FYI: Our new HEATKILLER® Multitop for high-performance DDC pumps features solid acetal in 30mm thickness, a maximum flow capacity due to unique duct routing and is virtually infinitely scalable thanks to its modular design. The top will be available in the next two to three weeks.

Additionally, the new HEATKILLER® Multitop will also be available as a Nickel-plated metal version during the fourth quarter of this year. More information will be available in the next days on our homepage.


----------



## Shawnb99

Multiple stacked side by side is very nice. Will they be sold as singles and pairs or just singles?


----------



## Barefooter

Watercool-Daniel said:


> FYI: Our new HEATKILLER® Multitop for high-performance DDC pumps features solid acetal in 30mm thickness, a maximum flow capacity due to unique duct routing and is virtually infinitely scalable thanks to its modular design. The top will be available in the next two to three weeks.
> 
> Additionally, the new HEATKILLER® Multitop will also be available as a Nickel-plated metal version during the fourth quarter of this year. More information will be available in the next days on our homepage.
> View attachment 2485894


Any plans for a Nickel-plated metal version for dual D5 pumps?


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> FYI: Our new HEATKILLER® Multitop for high-performance DDC pumps features solid acetal in 30mm thickness, a maximum flow capacity due to unique duct routing and is virtually infinitely scalable thanks to its modular design. The top will be available in the next two to three weeks.
> 
> Additionally, the new HEATKILLER® Multitop will also be available as a Nickel-plated metal version during the fourth quarter of this year. More information will be available in the next days on our homepage.
> View attachment 2485894


Nice. Hopefully you guys have some updates on the radiators lol. I'm seriously considering replacing all my internal radiators with them so 3 x 50mm version. One big order coming your way.


----------



## Shawnb99

I want to see the new Mora design. I don't have enough radiator space I need more!!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Watercool-Daniel said:


> FYI: Our new HEATKILLER® Multitop for high-performance DDC pumps features solid acetal in 30mm thickness, a maximum flow capacity due to unique duct routing and is virtually infinitely scalable thanks to its modular design. The top will be available in the next two to three weeks.
> 
> Additionally, the new HEATKILLER® Multitop will also be available as a Nickel-plated metal version during the fourth quarter of this year. More information will be available in the next days on our homepage.
> View attachment 2485894


Brings to mind *airplex modularity system*


----------



## coccosoids

coccosoids said:


> Boxed *Heatkiller IV Intel* waterblock missing mounting kit for* LGA 2066. *
> Furthermore the manual has to be one of the most phlegmatically designed ones in the history of UX.
> Screenshot from their manual for the 2066 platform:
> View attachment 2485346
> 
> My box is missing the big bolts in red. I do not know if the springs come in different sizes but the ones included are very long compared to what is illustrated.
> At the moment I managed to use the old mounting mechanism with *studs *from an older EKWB Velocity block.
> 
> PS:
> Here is another screenshot from their manual:
> View attachment 2485347
> 
> I do not see anywhere in the manual any mention of what the numbers represent. I suppose number 3 is what is missing from my package.


A little sad that I have no official reply to this yet.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

coccosoids said:


> A little sad that I have no official reply to this yet.


Please write me a pm for such things. I dont always have time to read all posts here. However for missing things or damages and so on you can also contact [email protected] directly. The guys from the support will help you out.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

My Mo-Ra order shipped today, not a bad turn around time of 10 days. Can't wait to get this into my loop, my temps are abysmal due to the case design even with fans running at 100%.


----------



## Pannum

Hi all, just got my order from watercool to build my first custom loop. In the middle of finishing up installing it all now. 
Just wondering what fluid you all recocmend so I don't have any of the nickel plating wear off or any corrosion. 
I'd like to go a purple fluid but Im happy to stay on clear fluid if it means no issues at all. 
I'm just not sure on what a to corrosive fluid to use. I've read don't use this or that all of the Web but would rather hear from people using the same waterblocks. 
Thanks.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Pannum said:


> Hi all, just got my order from watercool to build my first custom loop. In the middle of finishing up installing it all now.
> Just wondering what fluid you all recocmend so I don't have any of the nickel plating wear off or any corrosion.
> I'd like to go a purple fluid but Im happy to stay on clear fluid if it means no issues at all.
> I'm just not sure on what a to corrosive fluid to use. I've read don't use this or that all of the Web but would rather hear from people using the same waterblocks.
> Thanks.


Run a Blitz Part 1 on all of your rads. Then a Blitz part 2 on the assembled loop.

After that all you need is 1 drop of each of these for 1000ml of distilled..

Mayhems Biocide + and Inhibitor +


----------



## EniGma1987

Personally I just clean the radiators with any random radiator cleaner product I happen to see with good reviews on amazon when I search for it. Then I run a coolant with built in biocide. The one time I added biocide with a bottle I had lots of gunk buildup in 6 months. Since I stopped that and have only used premixed stuff I have been able to go 2 years easy with not the slightest bit of buildup on anything. And the only reason I change my coolant that often is because I upgrade a part and need to drain the loop and put a different block in.


----------



## Pannum

ChiTownButcher said:


> Run a Blitz Part 1 on all of your rads. Then a Blitz part 2 on the assembled loop.
> 
> After that all you need is 1 drop of each of these for 1000ml of distilled..
> 
> Mayhems Biocide + and Inhibitor +
> 
> Cheers for that, sadly though to get those into Australia will cost me $100. Seems quite expensive. We don't seem to have as many options here beside corsair and ek.


----------



## Pannum

EniGma1987 said:


> Personally I just clean the radiators with any random radiator cleaner product I happen to see with good reviews on amazon when I search for it. Then I run a coolant with built in biocide. The one time I added biocide with a bottle I had lots of gunk buildup in 6 months. Since I stopped that and have only used premixed stuff I have been able to go 2 years easy with not the slightest bit of buildup on anything. And the only reason I change my coolant that often is because I upgrade a part and need to drain the loop and put a different block in.


What coolant do you run? 
Australian stores seem to lack a lot of brands and importing can get expensive for shipping.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Except those two small droppers will last you YEARS if you have access to distilled water. There are between 250/300 drops per 15ml bottle. Your first fill you use 2 drops each per 1000ml. Then when you top off your reservoir every 3 months you use 1 drop each per 500ml. Drain/Fill each year. That's 13/14 drops the first year and 11 drops of each per year after or somewhere around 20-25 years of fluid. The plastic dropper bottle will degrade before you need a second bottle LOL. AND THAT IS ME OVER USING THE PRODUCT....

From Mick himself in an email to me... "Just use 1 drop of biocide per 1 Ltr of fluid in a new cleaned system then every 3 months top up with 1 drop. Same goes with inhibitor plus.

Mick"


----------



## Pannum

ChiTownButcher said:


> Except those two small droppers will last you YEARS if you have access to distilled water. There are between 250/300 drops per 15ml bottle. Your first fill you use 2 drops each per 1000ml. Then when you top off your reservoir every 3 months you use 1 drop each per 500ml. Drain/Fill each year. That's 13/14 drops the first year and 11 drops of each per year after or somewhere around 20-25 years of fluid. The plastic dropper bottle will degrade before you need a second bottle LOL. AND THAT IS ME OVER USING THE PRODUCT....
> 
> From Mick himself in an email to me... "Just use 1 drop of biocide per 1 Ltr of fluid in a new cleaned system then every 3 months top up with 1 drop. Same goes with inhibitor plus.
> 
> Mick"


Yeha might just have to fork out for it. As for distilled water, I literally can't find anywhere that sells it haha. Closest we have is deoironised and demineralised water. I've heard deoironised is the same petty much so I guess I'm stuck with that.


----------



## Avacado

Pannum said:


> Yeha might just have to fork out for it. As for distilled water, I literally can't find anywhere that sells it haha. Closest we have is deoironised and demineralised water. I've heard deoironised is the same petty much so I guess I'm stuck with that.


I'm in the medical field, and CPAP water should be just fine, won't this work from Amazon.au?









Snugell Distilled Water for Humidifiers | 6 Bottle Pack 20oz H20 | Travel Friendly | 20oz H2O | Made in USA | : Amazon.com.au: Health, Household & Personal Care


Snugell Distilled Water for Humidifiers | 6 Bottle Pack 20oz H20 | Travel Friendly | 20oz H2O | Made in USA | : Amazon.com.au: Health, Household & Personal Care



www.amazon.com.au


----------



## EniGma1987

Pannum said:


> What coolant do you run?
> Australian stores seem to lack a lot of brands and importing can get expensive for shipping.


Ive been using this for the past 2-3 years without anything else added to the system:








Amazon.com: Koolance LIQ-702CL-B 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz) : Electronics


Amazon.com: Koolance LIQ-702CL-B 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz) : Electronics



www.amazon.com




I notice it is kinda expensive right now. I think I paid like $17 for it last time.





ChiTownButcher said:


> Except those two small droppers will last you YEARS if you have access to distilled water. There are between 250/300 drops per 15ml bottle. Your first fill you use 2 drops each per 1000ml. Then when you top off your reservoir every 3 months you use 1 drop each per 500ml. Drain/Fill each year. That's 13/14 drops the first year and 11 drops of each per year after or somewhere around 20-25 years of fluid. The plastic dropper bottle will degrade before you need a second bottle LOL. AND THAT IS ME OVER USING THE PRODUCT....
> 
> From Mick himself in an email to me... "Just use 1 drop of biocide per 1 Ltr of fluid in a new cleaned system then every 3 months top up with 1 drop. Same goes with inhibitor plus.
> 
> Mick"


That just seems like so much work. Why would anyone want to bother with all that when instead you can just fill the loop up and forget about it? And I only need to top off the reservoir once a year when I bring the tower down to blow out the fans and radiators with compressed air.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

I noticed that Heatkiller blocks are not hardly in stock in the US anywhere. Are things slow to cross the pond or what?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

A nice big box from germany showed up today. I now have a full mora 420 setup. Plan to tear down and start modifications to the case and loop this weekend. Before I get started can anyone tell me if the rad needs aggressive cleaning? Guessing it doesn't since it's not soldered together. A quick blast with the garden hose enough or does it need a vinegar soak?


----------



## D-EJ915

EniGma1987 said:


> Ive been using this for the past 2-3 years without anything else added to the system:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Koolance LIQ-702CL-B 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz) : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Koolance LIQ-702CL-B 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz) : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice it is kinda expensive right now. I think I paid like $17 for it last time.


It may be worthwhile to watch koolance webstore if you want to buy more, they put some colours on sale sometimes like yellow bottle and green jug are on sale right now. Liquid Coolant


----------



## Pannum

Avacado said:


> I'm in the medical field, and CPAP water should be just fine, won't this work from Amazon.au?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snugell Distilled Water for Humidifiers | 6 Bottle Pack 20oz H20 | Travel Friendly | 20oz H2O | Made in USA | : Amazon.com.au: Health, Household & Personal Care
> 
> 
> Snugell Distilled Water for Humidifiers | 6 Bottle Pack 20oz H20 | Travel Friendly | 20oz H2O | Made in USA | : Amazon.com.au: Health, Household & Personal Care
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com.au


I could get that but with shipping that's $70. haha not paying that for distilled water.


----------



## Pannum

Voodoo Rufus said:


> I noticed that Heatkiller blocks are not hardly in stock in the US anywhere. Are things slow to cross the pond or what?


I order mine at the start of February and just recieved them a week ago, so a little bit of a wait but from what I hear it's worth it. Plus I love the look of the gpu block.


----------



## Avacado

Pannum said:


> I could get that but with shipping that's $70. haha not paying that for distilled water.


I didn't notice the shipping costs. Surely you can find a similar product with more acceptable shipping costs?


----------



## skline00

EdgeofSanity: A number of years ago I found a neat way to clean out radiators. 

Buy a 5 gallon bucket at Lowes, a cheap submersible garden water pump and the most expensive is a water filter that is typically installed below a kitchen sink to filter tap water.

Drill 2 holes in the bucket at 180 degrees from each other a couple inches from the top. Use cheap 3/4 inch flexible tubing and attach the submersible pump outlet placed inside the bucket to the inlet of the radiator outside the bucket. Then attach the outlet of the radiator to the inlet of the water filter. Then attach the outlet of the water filter and route the hose so it discharges into the other hole in the bucket. Fill the bucket with enough distilled water (I buy it cheap at the grocery store or Walmart) to cover the pump. The flow will be from pump to rad to filter and then back into bucket for pump to use. Run for @24 hours and rad should be clean.


----------



## InfoSeeker

skline00 said:


> EdgeofSanity: A number of years ago I found a neat way to clean out radiators.
> 
> Buy a 5 gallon bucket at Lowes, a cheap submersible garden water pump and the most expensive is a water filter that is typically installed below a kitchen sink to filter tap water.
> 
> Drill 2 holes in the bucket at 180 degrees from each other a couple inches from the top. Use cheap 3/4 inch flexible tubing and attach the submersible pump outlet placed inside the bucket to the inlet of the radiator outside the bucket. Then attach the outlet of the radiator to the inlet of the water filter. Then attach the outlet of the water filter and route the hose so it discharges into the other hole in the bucket. Fill the bucket with enough distilled water (I buy it cheap at the grocery store or Walmart) to cover the pump. The flow will be from pump to rad to filter and then back into bucket for pump to use. Run for @24 hours and rad should be clean.


The only thing I would do different for this setup is place the filter before the radiator, so as not to introduce any contaminants from the bucket/pump.


----------



## Section31

The new rads looks amazing. The wait has been super long though. It’s last item holding up my build. Hope for some good news


----------



## kotory22

looking forward to see how these new rads compare with hwlabs gts and gtx


----------



## Section31

kotory22 said:


> looking forward to see how these new rads compare with hwlabs gts and gtx


Hope heatkiller answers those questions soon. Stop teasing us, many of us have saved up cash in the bank for ordering those. Look at daliu and him commenting on heatkiller hardwareluxx forum.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Anyone know what size screws these are with the MoRa 420 dual pump mount? The ones they supply are barely long enough with the washer. With the addition of the wall mount they do not work at all, need a longer screw.

Screw goes in the hole to the left, frustrating that these screws are not sized correctly.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Edge0fsanity said:


> Anyone know what size screws these are with the MoRa 420 dual pump mount? The ones they supply are barely long enough with the washer. With the addition of the wall mount they do not work at all, need a longer screw.
> 
> Screw goes in the hole to the left, frustrating that these screws are not sized correctly.
> View attachment 2488268


M4


----------



## Section31

Daliu here really got heatkiller to explain the quietness on new internal rads. One small component missing


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Daliu here really got heatkiller to explain the quietness on new internal rads. One small component missing


That seems to be the new normal. One or two minor parts hold up everything.


----------



## coccosoids

Edge0fsanity said:


> Anyone know what size screws these are with the MoRa 420 dual pump mount? The ones they supply are barely long enough with the washer. With the addition of the wall mount they do not work at all, need a longer screw.
> 
> Screw goes in the hole to the left, frustrating that these screws are not sized correctly.
> View attachment 2488268


Had similar problems recently with their Heatkiller block for intel's X299 platform. The entire mounting mechanism was missing from the package.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

coccosoids said:


> Had similar problems recently with their Heatkiller block for intel's X299 platform. The entire mounting mechanism was missing from the package.


They need to provide screws that a couple mm longer for the dual pump mount. With the washer in place they are barely long enough to even grab the threads. They also need to think about providing longer screws, or at least offering the option, for the wall mount brackets so they can be used with the dual pump mount. Probably was never intended to have both in place at the same time since the dual pump mount is newer and the wall mount has been around awhile.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Section31 said:


> Nice. Hopefully you guys have some updates on the radiators lol. I'm seriously considering replacing all my internal radiators with them so 3 x 50mm version. One big order coming your way.


There will be news on the radiators soon


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Watercool-Daniel said:


> There will be news on the radiators soon


I am very interested as well! Also I realize it's very early and the cards are not even released yet but any thoughts on what AIB 3080ti you will be making blocks for? I am considering using vacation time to camp a Microcenter on launch day and want to make sure I buy the right one 😉


----------



## Section31

ChiTownButcher said:


> I am very interested as well! Also I realize it's very early and the cards are not even released yet but any thoughts on what AIB 3080ti you will be making blocks for? I am considering using vacation time to camp a Microcenter on launch day and want to make sure I buy the right one 😉


I suspect same as 3080/3090


----------



## Section31

ChiTownButcher said:


> I am very interested as well! Also I realize it's very early and the cards are not even released yet but any thoughts on what AIB 3080ti you will be making blocks for? I am considering using vacation time to camp a Microcenter on launch day and want to make sure I buy the right one 😉


pls check your pm


----------



## ciarlatano

Watercool-Daniel said:


> There will be news on the radiators soon


Great to hear. I'm definitely curious on these. Looking forward to seeing more details.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> Great to hear. I'm definitely curious on these. Looking forward to seeing more details.


see pm.


----------



## Fluxmaven

ChiTownButcher said:


> I am very interested as well! Also I realize it's very early and the cards are not even released yet but any thoughts on what AIB 3080ti you will be making blocks for? I am considering using vacation time to camp a Microcenter on launch day and want to make sure I buy the right one 😉


I don't even need more radiators and I'm interested lol.
Also, If I had a Microcenter even remotely close to me I would definitely go camp out for a 3080ti.


----------



## kotory22

I just wish these new rads to be competitive with hwlabs stuff - by far the best rads i've ever had. Also 140 mm versions would be welcome.


----------



## ciarlatano

It would be nice if this release prompted XtremeRigs to update the Radiator Roundup. Add in teh Heatkiller, XSPC TX and Alphacool V2. Looking at that, it's kind of sad that is basically all the activity in the rad market the last four years.


----------



## Section31

For those out in east coast of Canada, there is an group buy being started by an another individual that also wants the radiators.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> It would be nice if this release prompted XtremeRigs to update the Radiator Roundup. Add in teh Heatkiller, XSPC TX and Alphacool V2. Looking at that, it's kind of sad that is basically all the activity in the rad market the last four years.


Add Optimus too. They have come out saying they want to make rads but see when they actually release them. They are just another caselabs, son’s pet project located in parent’s manufacturing factory.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

ciarlatano said:


> It would be nice if this release prompted XtremeRigs to update the Radiator Roundup. Add in teh Heatkiller, XSPC TX and Alphacool V2. Looking at that, it's kind of sad that is basically all the activity in the rad market the last four years.


Agreed! I also would like to see 360mm Heatkiller 30mm & 50mm vs HWL GTS & GTX & SR2-MP vs Alphacool ST30 V2 & XT45 V2 vs XSPC TX & RX vs EK PE & XE and if needed to fill the chart Corsair Hydro Series tested all at the same relative time with the same equipment. Let's face it if you are looking at a radiator these days that is the list you are most likely to be choosing from depending where you live in the world and availability.


----------



## Section31

ChiTownButcher said:


> Agreed! I also would like to see 360mm Heatkiller 30mm & 50mm vs HWL GTS & GTX & SR2-MP vs Alphacool ST30 V2 & XT45 V2 vs XSPC TX & RX vs EK PE & XE and if needed to fill the chart Corsair Hydro Series tested all at the same relative time with the same equipment. Let's face it if you are looking at a radiator these days that is the list you are most likely to be choosing from depending where you live in the world and availability.


Yeah. In canada corsair rads are cheap and they are oem hwl rads more or less. Much cheaper than getting in an gts/gtx/gtr rad from the states


----------



## ciarlatano

ChiTownButcher said:


> Agreed! I also would like to see 360mm Heatkiller 30mm & 50mm vs HWL GTS & GTX & SR2-MP vs Alphacool ST30 V2 & XT45 V2 vs XSPC TX & RX vs EK PE & XE and if needed to fill the chart Corsair Hydro Series tested all at the same relative time with the same equipment. Let's face it if you are looking at a radiator these days that is the list you are most likely to be choosing from depending where you live in the world and availability.





Section31 said:


> Yeah. In canada corsair rads are cheap and they are oem hwl rads more or less. Much cheaper than getting in an gts/gtx/gtr rad from the states


The Corsair rads are HWL L-Series rads with a little sailboat sticker on them. Same rads as the Bitspower Leviathon, as well. Would like to see the L-Series better represented.


----------



## LiquidHaus

All I can say for now.. Quality 10/10!


----------



## chibi

Looks amazing. Please please please live up to the hype and come 100% clean without any junk in the internal tubes.


----------



## jura11

Personally I don't care how radiator looks, if it performs on par with HWLabs radiators or they will outperform them and it will be a bit cheaper then I would use them, pricing will be crucial to for me

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> All I can say for now.. Quality 10/10!


Damn beauty. Bunch of us in Canada getting them too. I know people who total group has 14rads in total to be ordered. Some more enquiring/debating. Heatkiller has an hit on its hand. 

It might sell out at launch literally.


----------



## Section31

delete


----------



## Darb

kotory22 said:


> I just wish these new rads to be competitive with hwlabs stuff - by far the best rads i've ever had. Also 140 mm versions would be welcome.


Same. 140mm rads would be great.


----------



## Section31

Darb said:


> Same. 140mm rads would be great.


Only 120mm atm, hopefully 140mm comes later. I think we will find out soon. Liquidhaus has them.


----------



## Section31

jura11 said:


> Personally I don't care how radiator looks, if it performs on par with HWLabs radiators or they will outperform them and it will be a bit cheaper then I would use them, pricing will be crucial to for me
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


See your pm also


----------



## Biggu

Id be curious on pricing of them. Ive been using my ut60 for so long and wouldn't be upset changing out for something else.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Id be curious on pricing of them. Ive been using my ut60 for so long and wouldn't be upset changing out for something else.


You should just go ahead and get them imo. I think you could resell your ut60 and probably not cover much extra to get one. This is as long as you can get that 400euro order in and effectively get free shipping.


----------



## Section31

photography — LiquidHaus







liquid-haus.squarespace.com





Lot of pictures on the heatkiller rads. Great job liquidhaus


----------



## Section31

Great News. I myself plan an giveaway for one of these rads 360 30mm black whenever i can get my hands on them. Help out the local pc water cooling community. I likely will let international individual enter though won't cover shipping part. Will post on canadian hardware swap reddit.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> photography — LiquidHaus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> liquid-haus.squarespace.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lot of pictures on the heatkiller rads. Great job liquidhaus



Thank you sir!

Wanted to drop a photo here. The new HK radiator was perfect for this build's aesthetic!


----------



## DecimetSales

InfoSeeker said:


> I don't want to mislead... I designed the thing and sent it out to a CNC shop to make.
> 
> Local shop quoted me around $400 to make it.
> Luckily I found metalscut4u.com who made it for $79 + shipping.
> I highly recommend them, easy to work with.
> Their online design software is fail atm, they are upgrading soon.
> Send him a design and ask for quote.
> Attaching my design sketch.



We could have also done that for you for the same affordable price. Decimet Sales Inc. Experts in Machining & Metal Fabrication Productivity - since 1982.


----------



## Section31

DecimetSales said:


> We could have also done that for you for the same affordable price. Decimet Sales Inc. Experts in Machining & Metal Fabrication Productivity - since 1982.


Interesting. I have some custom work in early exploration phase i am looking to get done on my caselabs s8. Looking at making an 80mm top version of there extended top (the current top max is 35mm) among things


----------



## LiquidHaus




----------



## Darb

Section31 said:


> photography — LiquidHaus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> liquid-haus.squarespace.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lot of pictures on the heatkiller rads. Great job liquidhaus


Nice work! Hoping for a future 140mm format rad release. Still waiting on HWL GTXs so still time before I make a purchase.


----------



## Section31

Jerry rigged as random experiment while i wait for my order. So it works


----------



## Section31

Per Hardwareluxx: It's coming


----------



## Darb

Sweet


----------



## onMute

Any performance data out yet?


----------



## Section31

onMute said:


> Any performance data out yet?


Only liquidhaus and other professional builders have tested them out. The key figures like flow restriction we need the pro-reviewers with equipment for that


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

Those rads look nice, to bad I already got rads picked .

Any word on the 6000 series blocks?


----------



## Section31

Aussiejuggalo said:


> Those rads look nice, to bad I already got rads picked .
> 
> Any word on the 6000 series blocks?


Follow there Hardwareluxx forums honeslty. Some of the ocn ppl joined there because they get information faster than here.


----------



## paskowitz

Nice to see the rads finally approaching the finish line. Shame I couldn't get them in time for some builds I was doing but there's always next time. I wonder if Watercool would sell the side colored accents separately. It would be nice to be able to change out each color based on a new build's theme, or paint/anodize the raw variant.

Now to send myself into hibernation for the FTW3 block. Hopefully it is available around when the 3080 Ti is out.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Looking at making an 80mm top version of there extended top (the current top max is 35mm) among things


I'd suggest at least 110mm or bigger for the extended top. That way you can fit the thicker radiators and fans in push/pull up there with room to spare.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I'd suggest at least 110mm or bigger for the extended top. That way you can fit the thicker radiators and fans in push/pull up there with room to spare.


First is cleaning up the mess from bp brass tubing and that hwl gtr rad. I suspect it was always present in the old system loop just that the stuff never stuck to an components in the loop except the CPU block.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

FYI: The new HEATKILLER RADs can now be preordered: RAD-Serie 
Be gentle with our shop


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Also check out the techpowerup reviews: Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-L Review and Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-S Review


----------



## Section31

Nice. Basically the 30mm is near gts level with lower flow resistance (lot), which is great news. The 50mm is competitive to hwl gtx series


----------



## EniGma1987

Wish you would have also had a 30fpi version for top cooling performance instead of optimized for low speed fans again.


----------



## Darb

Interesting. They look great. Two things come up for me. 

1) HWL GTX still out performs at sub 1000 RPM speeds, but not by much. I would assume the 360 - L might be cleaner from factory as Watercool products, I find, are well made and finished. 
2) No 140mm form factor which is a deal breaker for me. When looking at radiator performance the amount of real estate is always a top factor for me. What I mean is the surface area available for the heat transfer. Take a 480mm rad = 57600 mm2 of cooling surface. A 420mm rad is 58800 mm2 cooling surface using 1 less fan. 

I have always been a 140mm form factor guy. Personal preference. Hopefully Watercool will bring out 140mm form factor. I would be all over them if they do. Looking forward to seeing the results in different builds. Great looking product!


----------



## ciarlatano

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Also check out the techpowerup reviews: Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-L Review and Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-S Review


Great results, and really nice looking rads. I'm a fan.


----------



## Biggu

Agreed, Nice looking and performing. Sadly for me ill be keeping with what I got since I need Multiport one on the top and one on the bottom.


----------



## dwolvin

Darb said:


> Interesting. They look great. Two things come up for me.
> 
> 1) HWL GTX still out performs at sub 1000 RPM speeds, but not by much. I would assume the 360 - L might be cleaner from factory as Watercool products, I find, are well made and finished.
> 2) No 140mm form factor which is a deal breaker for me. When looking at radiator performance the amount of real estate is always a top factor for me. What I mean is the surface area available for the heat transfer. Take a 480mm rad = 57600 mm2 of cooling surface. A 420mm rad is 58800 mm2 cooling surface using 1 less fan.
> 
> I have always been a 140mm form factor guy. Personal preference. Hopefully Watercool will bring out 140mm form factor. I would be all over them if they do. Looking forward to seeing the results in different builds. Great looking product!


 Agree 100%. I'd much rather have a couple of 420's than a monster (I can get 2x 420 in my P3).


----------



## Shawnb99

Darb said:


> Interesting. They look great. Two things come up for me.
> 
> 1) HWL GTX still out performs at sub 1000 RPM speeds, but not by much. I would assume the 360 - L might be cleaner from factory as Watercool products, I find, are well made and finished.
> 2) No 140mm form factor which is a deal breaker for me. When looking at radiator performance the amount of real estate is always a top factor for me. What I mean is the surface area available for the heat transfer. Take a 480mm rad = 57600 mm2 of cooling surface. A 420mm rad is 58800 mm2 cooling surface using 1 less fan.
> 
> I have always been a 140mm form factor guy. Personal preference. Hopefully Watercool will bring out 140mm form factor. I would be all over them if they do. Looking forward to seeing the results in different builds. Great looking product!


140mm means you can't use the best fan on the market, they NF-A12's so you have to "downgrade" to the Industrial model which is means louder fans. Until Noctua comes out with the updated 140mm model I'll stick to 120mm radiators.


----------



## Darb

Shawnb99 said:


> 140mm means you can't use the best fan on the market, they NF-A12's so you have to "downgrade" to the Industrial model which is means louder fans. Until Noctua comes out with the updated 140mm model I'll stick to 120mm radiators.


I use the 140mm Noctua NF - A14 FLX with great results in the sub 1000 RPM speeds with fantastic results. The AF12 is an industry standard fan for sure. Also trying out the NOISEBLOCKER NB-ELOOP B14-PS BIONIC FAN which also has great results.


----------



## Shawnb99

Darb said:


> I use the 140mm Noctua NF - A14 FLX with great results in the sub 1000 RPM speeds with fantastic results. The AF12 is an industry standard fan for sure. Also trying out the NOISEBLOCKER NB-ELOOP B14-PS BIONIC FAN which also has great results.


Yeah I have that one as well, it's a great fan but the NFA12's are better. Will be glad to see the 140mm version come out this year. I'm also partial to 120mm since almost all my mounts are for 120mm. Sadly one of the few bad design choices on the earlier Caselabs


----------



## Section31

EniGma1987 said:


> Wish you would have also had a 30fpi version for top cooling performance instead of optimized for low speed fans again.


The new mo-ra in couple years is going to be insane. Must buy at this point


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Agree 100%. I'd much rather have a couple of 420's than a monster (I can get 2x 420 in my P3).


I see 140 version as replacement for heatkiller own mo-ra3 myself. Using Liquid Haus own external rad mounting kit.


----------



## Section31

These rads might genuinely sell out with the level of interest i am seeing among the watercooling community.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> These rads might genuinely sell out with the level of interest i am seeing among the watercooling community.


Everything sells out these days


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> Everything sells out these days


Other good news for canadians is that an competitor to dazmode going to be opened. Spoke to an watercooling individual on reddit and this competitor will hope to carry heatkiller, optimus, aquacomputer. Dazmode pricing getting too expensive imo and his shipping isn't cheap.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Section31 said:


> Other good news for canadians is that an competitor to dazmode going to be opened. Spoke to an watercooling individual on reddit and this competitor will hope to carry heatkiller, optimus, aquacomputer. Dazmode pricing getting too expensive imo and his shipping isn't cheap.



Any knowledge as to where they will be based out of?


----------



## Section31

Jokesterwild said:


> Any knowledge as to where they will be based out of?


see optimus thread. Link is there but still rough opening not official. I am no way affliated with it at all. Just spreading the news. I ordered myself and do group buy with friends/etc.


----------



## dwolvin

Section31 said:


> I see 140 version as replacement for heatkiller own mo-ra3 myself. Using Liquid Haus own external rad mounting kit.


Oh yeah, if the external mount looked clean I could really see moving. MoRa are great but not clean looking (to me). I wonder if it would be do able to set up an external with its own power supply to get rid of the spaghetti mess...


----------



## Section31

Not unexpected but shipping prices have gone up from 30euro to 40euro now and minimum for free shipping went from 400euro to 500euro.


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> Oh yeah, if the external mount looked clean I could really see moving. MoRa are great but not clean looking (to me). I wonder if it would be do able to set up an external with its own power supply to get rid of the spaghetti mess...


Would love to know your opinion of what clean is.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

LiquidHaus said:


> Would love to know your opinion of what clean is.


I dont know about dwolvin but I would consider a "clean" Mora where in chambers on the side edges it has the reservoir and a D5Next and Quadro for fan control and the other is a power brick to run the pump and fans with a wireless internal USB dongle to communicate with Aquasuite. The only thing going to the PC would be in/out hoses and a power cord for the wall outlet. One Piece grill on the fans should have the option of various mesh patterns to match popular cases (Slits, Pills, Hex Mesh, Round Holes) and come in Black Paint, White Paint, Dark Brushed Aluminum, Brushed Stainless.

I know it would not happen, I am just throwing out a thought.


----------



## dwolvin

Yeah, basically what CTB said, it would be cool if we could get down to a power connection and an couple of hoses.


----------



## Section31

dwolvin said:


> Yeah, basically what CTB said, it would be cool if we could get down to a power connection and an couple of hoses.


Wireless power for watercooling and wireless fans. Whoever creates that will get rich


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Section31 said:


> Wireless power for watercooling and wireless fans. Whoever creates that will get rich


The Pump and Fans are not wireless, they are powered by a PSU inside the Mo-Ra frame. Think Brick style PSU almost like a server rack PSU on the right side (Inside and hidden) and a Heatkiller Tube with a spot for a D5 Below on the left side (Inside the Chasis) with a Quadro or Octo above the reservoir (Inside the chasis) and space for Pull or Push/Pull 25mm thick fans (Inside the chasis) all in a package that looks like a Large Fractal Node 202 with mesh side panels where the Mo-Ra/Fans are.

The USB communication from the Quadro/D5 to the computer would be wireless with a receiver dongle either in a back USB port on the computer or internal header. Aquasuite allows for PWM fan curves VIA USB to the Quadro/Octo.

If this was done all you would need is 2 hoses connecting the external chasis to you computer loop and a power cord for the PSU on the unit. Everything else is self contained and the look would be very clean and simple.


----------



## dwolvin

And all fans in pull for easy cleaning (hey, I have pets).


----------



## Mxj1

LiquidHaus said:


> Would love to know your opinion of what clean is.





dwolvin said:


> Yeah, basically what CTB said, it would be cool if we could get down to a power connection and an couple of hoses.


This is as clean as I could make it - but I think it would fit your bill. Two hoses with Koolance qdcs, and a single five pin neutrik cable that transmits 12v, 5v, ground and twisted pair for usb data.
























also, new radiators _look_ awesome, but I'm out because of no 140, and the performance is not _that _much better than GTS.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> This is as clean as I could make it - but I think it would fit your bill. Two hoses with Koolance qdcs, and a single five pin neutrik cable that transmits 12v, 5v, ground and twisted pair for usb data.
> 
> View attachment 2511764
> View attachment 2511765
> View attachment 2511766
> 
> 
> also, new radiators _look_ awesome, but I'm out because of no 140, and the performance is not _that _much better than GTS.


Damn that one nice add-on. Giving me more ideas, time to order more fittings lol. How do i hide the planned farbwerk360 for my mora.

Going to have one of the first rgb mo-ra3 out there finally turned on lol.


----------



## Mxj1

Mine had rgb... In the res. But I think you have the uni fans. I have a farbwerk, but didn't try mounting. I'm not sure if it will clear the high version grill unless you use a right angle molex. Fwiw, I've got a hubby 7 under one of the side covers and it fits well.

I'm also using the nfa20 fans, which I think gives more room under the grill.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Mine had rgb... In the res. But I think you have the uni fans. I have a farbwerk, but didn't try mounting. I'm not sure if it will clear the high version grill unless you use a right angle molex. Fwiw, I've got a hubby 7 under one of the side covers and it fits well.
> 
> I'm also using the nfa20 fans, which I think gives more room under the grill.


I don’t have room for the grill so i didn’t buy it. Test concept (only one have one cable that can run off the octo) All the fans led on might be really annoying.


----------



## Streetdragon

I wanna change my twi 480mmx45mm Rads for one Mo-Ra3 420. Is the flow restriction lower or higher iwth the mo-ra3? I cant find any tests that answers that question.
I have only one D5


----------



## Section31

Streetdragon said:


> I wanna change my twi 480mmx45mm Rads for one Mo-Ra3 420. Is the flow restriction lower or higher iwth the mo-ra3? I cant find any tests that answers that question.
> I have only one D5


Thermal bench did an test on it


----------



## iamjanco

Link to TB review: *Watercool Heatkiller MO-RA3 420 PRO Radiator*


----------



## LiquidHaus

This is as clean as I could make mine










Also about the new Heatkiller Rads regarding the HWL GTS rads... I have a 360mm, 280mm, and 420mm in GTS rads. They are SO restrictive, by far the most restrictive aspects of any loop they're incorporated in with. However the new Heatkiller Rads flow soo much easier. Your pumps will most definitely thank you, going with the new Heatkillers. 

I can definitely understand the stance about utilizing 140mm fans versus 120mm fans. I am also hopeful that Watercool will do 140mm variants. I have sold tons of my 140mm EXT stands lately, it's clear that people prefer the bigger platform if given the opportunity. Space wise, I'm not surprised that people utilizing radiators inside their cases means running 120mm platform rads.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> This is as clean as I could make mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also about the new Heatkiller Rads regarding the HWL GTS rads... I have a 360mm, 280mm, and 420mm in GTS rads. They are SO restrictive, by far the most restrictive aspects of any loop they're incorporated in with. However the new Heatkiller Rads flow soo much easier. Your pumps will most definitely thank you, going with the new Heatkillers.
> 
> I can definitely understand the stance about utilizing 140mm fans versus 120mm fans. I am also hopeful that Watercool will do 140mm variants. I have sold tons of my 140mm EXT stands lately, it's clear that people prefer the bigger platform if given the opportunity. Space wise, I'm not surprised that people utilizing radiators inside their cases means running 120mm platform rads.


The next mo-ra only needs to incorporate new rad tech (but for high performance fans) and have way less flow resistance for it to be success. That and improved cable management for us (conduits for us to hide those cables is all we need).

Wish lists includes an more compact version of aquacomputer quadro or built splitty 9 like device. Design it with external psu powered in mind (saves us buying all those extension psu cables and in some cases custom sleeved psus one). I also would love integrated glass reservoir with dual pump top.


----------



## Mxj1

LiquidHaus said:


> This is as clean as I could make mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also about the new Heatkiller Rads regarding the HWL GTS rads... I have a 360mm, 280mm, and 420mm in GTS rads. They are SO restrictive, by far the most restrictive aspects of any loop they're incorporated in with. However the new Heatkiller Rads flow soo much easier. Your pumps will most definitely thank you, going with the new Heatkillers.
> 
> I can definitely understand the stance about utilizing 140mm fans versus 120mm fans. I am also hopeful that Watercool will do 140mm variants. I have sold tons of my 140mm EXT stands lately, it's clear that people prefer the bigger platform if given the opportunity. Space wise, I'm not surprised that people utilizing radiators inside their cases means running 120mm platform rads.


Yours looks good. I think the contention most people have is the wiring... But that's easily solved with a custom cable.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Yours looks good. I think the contention most people have is the wiring... But that's easily solved with a custom cable.


Yeah. That makes an clean mo-ra3 ultra expensive.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Yours looks good. I think the contention most people have is the wiring... But that's easily solved with a custom cable.


I am wondering how i can cleanup those fan cables from the sl140 and hide the farbwerk360/quadro. Tried these (have these in the house)


----------



## Section31

This is my setup for reference. Cleaned up the cable managemen side. You won’t see the pump side of the mo-ra3 and i run the controls of the mo-ra3 through an usb hub velcro on the external psu (which is connected to my motherboard usb ports through amazon extensiom cable)


----------



## LiquidHaus

The main key to a clean MoRa3 setup is the optional grill for them that Watercool makes. It gives you about an inch of room on both the left and right to manage your wiring and hide them under said grill. I've got 18 fans, with a single D5 and all the wiring is kept under the grill, so that I've got one PWM cable, and one Molex cable coming from it, along with the tubing of course.

It's really not too tough. I am honestly surprised many people aren't using the grill as well since they're super functional and they also happen to look good.


----------



## Section31

LiquidHaus said:


> The main key to a clean MoRa3 setup is the optional grill for them that Watercool makes. It gives you about an inch of room on both the left and right to manage your wiring and hide them under said grill. I've got 18 fans, with a single D5 and all the wiring is kept under the grill, so that I've got one PWM cable, and one Molex cable coming from it, along with the tubing of course.
> 
> It's really not too tough. I am honestly surprised many people aren't using the grill as well since they're super functional and they also happen to look good.


I wish it was possible but the lianli sl140 are too wide for them. Installing them was not ideal either. Bottom row can’t be screwed in except on one side


----------



## LiquidHaus

Section31 said:


> I wish it was possible but the lianli sl140 are too wide for them. Installing them was not ideal either. Bottom row can’t be screwed in except on one side


Yeah I know what you mean about the SL's. I can't use them either with my EXT stands on the rear, since mounting heights change by 1/4". Those fans need to be all on the same plane.


----------



## InfoSeeker

I performed an informal pump-top test for a couple of pump tops and placed the results in fast_fate's Test Thread.


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> Yeah. That makes an clean mo-ra3 ultra expensive.


I don't necessarily agree with this. If you can solder the cable yourself, this could come in under $100 for the setup. When we're talking mora, $100 isn't that much - you and i both spent more than that on the fans.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> I don't necessarily agree with this. If you can solder the cable yourself, this could come in under $100 for the setup. When we're talking mora, $100 isn't that much - you and i both spent more than that on the fans.


Yeah very true. Its for newcomers who are on tight budgets. For us here, our budgets allow for more luxury’s


----------



## dwolvin

@LiquidHaus That is the cleanest setup I've ever seen! And I just realized that if you only have the fans on intake you can still clean by blowing from the backside, correct?


----------



## LiquidHaus

dwolvin said:


> @LiquidHaus That is the cleanest setup I've ever seen! And I just realized that if you only have the fans on intake you can still clean by blowing from the backside, correct?


Thank you sir! My MoRa3 has push and pull fans, however that doesn't stop me from using my air compressor from blowing air from both sides to get all the dust out when it's time to clean it.


----------



## dwolvin

Fair enough- My only mistake setting up my current system is that the rads are a pain to clean (well, one of them is).


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> I am wondering how i can cleanup those fan cables from the sl140 and hide the farbwerk360/quadro. Tried these (have these in the house)
> 
> View attachment 2511887
> 
> View attachment 2511888


That will be challenging without the grill. If I was in this predicament I would mount the devices on the back and run the cables to the back. The big, bulky conduits make me cringe. I would just focus on having the wires as tightly bunched and secured as possible. Perhaps some of the stick on cable tie anchors would help give you points to secure to.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> That will be challenging without the grill. If I was in this predicament I would mount the devices on the back and run the cables to the back. The big, bulky conduits make me cringe. I would just focus on having the wires as tightly bunched and secured as possible. Perhaps some of the stick on cable tie anchors would help give you points to secure to.


Thanks something to look into.


----------



## ProRules

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Also check out the techpowerup reviews: Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-L Review and Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-S Review


Wow finally some good radiators!
I always loved the looks of the older rads that were offered by HK, but their performance was mediocre.
These new radiators are marvelous! First of all, they look slick AF, even better than HWLabs which in my opinion were leading up until now. 
And I just can't ignore the fantastic flow and performance. Germans are at it again!


----------



## Section31

ProRules said:


> Wow finally some good radiators!
> I always loved the looks of the older rads that were offered by HK, but their performance was mediocre.
> These new radiators are marvelous! First of all, they look slick AF, even better than HWLabs which in my opinion were leading up until now.
> And I just can't ignore the fantastic flow and performance. Germans are at it again!


Finally updates to there remaining old products (a lot). It's same thing happening with Aquacomputer, EKWB even. I suspect the likes of LGA1700/AM5, etc pushed up those timetables and the new players out there (Techn, Optimus) also played an role.


----------



## ProRules

Section31 said:


> Finally updates to there remaining old products (a lot). It's same thing happening with Aquacomputer, EKWB even. I suspect the likes of LGA1700/AM5, etc pushed up those timetables and the new players out there (Techn, Optimus) also played an role.


What updates did Aquacomputers have recently btw? I really liked their Cuplex Kryos Nexxt with vision.


----------



## Shawnb99

ProRules said:


> What updates did Aquacomputers have recently btw? I really liked their Cuplex Kryos Nexxt with vision.


High Flow Next. Really all the "Next" line is new


----------



## Section31

RGB Mo-Ra


----------



## Section31

Disco Mo-Ra3


----------



## dwolvin

Those fans look so nice.


----------



## paskowitz

3080 Ti FTW3 acquired. Surely these good fortunes mean the FTW3 block is coming soon


----------



## DeXel

Just got 3080 XC3 block.










Got a bit scared because one of the memory chips has moved from left to the top compared to the installation manual, but just had to use the extra 3090's thermal pad.


----------



## ProRules

Is there any plan to make 140mm Rads aswell?


----------



## blitzraider

Hey,

Anybody have these items used they would be interested in parting with or want to join in on a group buy direct from the store? I'm located in Western Canada. I really only need one reservoir and radiator at the moment, but stacking on the other items saves on shipping and lets me start gathering parts for a backup build. I'm in no rush so let me know.


----------



## c5USSR72

Good day all,

Are we still waiting for EVGA FTW3 3080 block or was it scraped for XC3 block?


----------



## Section31

c5USSR72 said:


> Good day all,
> 
> Are we still waiting for EVGA FTW3 3080 block or was it scraped for XC3 block?


Heatkiller Block is scheduled in Summer (after Radeon 6000). See your PM


----------



## Section31

ProRules said:


> Wow finally some good radiators!
> I always loved the looks of the older rads that were offered by HK, but their performance was mediocre.
> These new radiators are marvelous! First of all, they look slick AF, even better than HWLabs which in my opinion were leading up until now.
> And I just can't ignore the fantastic flow and performance. Germans are at it again!


Lucky you. Some of us have our orders held up by German Customs (anything over 1000euro has to get there clearance)


----------



## blitzraider

Will there be a 420mm HK radiator in the future? Trying to decide if I should wait for get a HWLabs.


----------



## Section31

blitzraider said:


> Will there be a 420mm HK radiator in the future? Trying to decide if I should wait for get a HWLabs.


In the future. Don’t get hwl. Lot of new rads coming that perform similar with lower flow resistance


----------



## ciarlatano

Section31 said:


> In the future. Don’t get hwl. Lot of new rads coming that perform similar with lower flow resistance


A lot? Such as?


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> A lot? Such as?


EKWB, Optimus (whenever that is). Aquacomputer needs to update there radiator lineup too. Some of the other brands. Based on what heatkiller did with flow restriction reduction, it means other brands will do it too. I have feeling even HWL will refresh there lineup in next couple years. Even the legendary Mo-Ra3 is being updated.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> A lot? Such as?


I am even tempted to jump ship earlier back to Intel for Alderlake if there's an new CPU block that comes out. I am close to done with AMD.


----------



## DaLiu

Section31 said:


> I am even tempted to jump ship earlier back to Intel for Alderlake if there's an new CPU block that comes out. I am close to done with AMD.


Do you really think Intel will catch up with AMD anytime soon?


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Do you really think Intel will catch up with AMD anytime soon?


No clue on that. I prefer intel over amd after using it. Amd is the best chip on the market though atm and they will be competitive no matter what.


----------



## DaLiu

Section31 said:


> No clue on that. I prefer intel over amd after using it. Amd is the best chip on the market though atm and they will be competitive no matter what.


Can I ask you why or what does bother you on AMD, I am asking this because I am switching for AMD after 15 years of Intel.


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Can I ask you why or what does bother you on AMD, I am asking this because I am switching for AMD after 15 years of Intel.


Minor things like overclocking (non existent) and the power draw issue is overstated for ambient custom loops. We still just as much cooling and still get high temps as before moment we overclock stuff


----------



## jura11

Section31 said:


> Minor things like overclocking (non existent) and the power draw issue is overstated for ambient custom loops. We still just as much cooling and still get high temps as before moment we overclock stuff


Everything is not as bad as you are saying hahaha, overclocking is not bad, with PBO 2 and curve optimizer you are good to go and if your signature is correct then X570 Dark Hero is one of the best motherboards 

You always can run static OC as with Intel, I have 5950X and I'm very happy with performance of 5950X, temperatures can be issues but that's depending on your PPT, EDC and TDC settings

My load temperatures in OCCT or Cinebench are in low to mid 70's on Aquacomputer Kryos Next that's with two RTX 3090 GamingPro's in one loop 

What PPT, EDC and TDC are you using now? 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Section31

jura11 said:


> Everything is not as bad as you are saying hahaha, overclocking is not bad, with PBO 2 and curve optimizer you are good to go and if your signature is correct then X570 Dark Hero is one of the best motherboards
> 
> You always can run static OC as with Intel, I have 5950X and I'm very happy with performance of 5950X, temperatures can be issues but that's depending on your PPT, EDC and TDC settings
> 
> My load temperatures in OCCT or Cinebench are in low to mid 70's on Aquacomputer Kryos Next that's with two RTX 3090 GamingPro's in one loop
> 
> What PPT, EDC and TDC are you using now?
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Forgot. System been down for months. Waiting for water parts etc. Honestly thinking of cashing out and going back to 5800x/5900x level and using funds for 2023/2024 rig.

Its going to be expensive considering everything likely needs to be replaced. I expect new water parts for it (reuse my fittings) That and i have to decide do i spend money on paint job/modernization process or buy new case like lianli v3000+.


----------



## jura11

Section31 said:


> Forgot. System been down for months. Waiting for water parts etc. Honestly thinking of cashing out and going back to 5800x/5900x level and using funds for 2023/2024 rig.
> 
> Its going to be expensive considering everything likely needs to be replaced. I expect new water parts for it (reuse my fittings) That and i have to decide do i spend money on paint job/modernization process or buy new case like lianli v3000+.


Ohh okay I didn't know that
If you have buyer right now who will buy from or take from you 5950X and motherboard and you are happy go with 5800X or 5900X then I would do it, personally I use PC for rendering and therefore I will use all that power of that CPU 

Yup it will be again expensive when new CPU from Intel and AMD drop, new DDR5 plus new waterblocks etc as with every generation of CPUs sadly 

What case right now do you have? Caselabs or Lian Li? 

I don't think I will change my case, currently have Caselabs M8 with pedestal and only case which I would consider or want is TX-10 or TH-10 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Section31

jura11 said:


> Ohh okay I didn't know that
> If you have buyer right now who will buy from or take from you 5950X and motherboard and you are happy go with 5800X or 5900X then I would do it, personally I use PC for rendering and therefore I will use all that power of that CPU
> 
> Yup it will be again expensive when new CPU from Intel and AMD drop, new DDR5 plus new waterblocks etc as with every generation of CPUs sadly
> 
> What case right now do you have? Caselabs or Lian Li?
> 
> I don't think I will change my case, currently have Caselabs M8 with pedestal and only case which I would consider or want is TX-10 or TH-10
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I have caselabs s8 but needs paint job and would like to get custom parts to improve the case. However cost of those are high.


----------



## paskowitz

Am I the only person who has never had an issue with HWL restrictive flow and five that characters to be totally overblown. I've had 2xGTS 360s and 1 240 in a loop run just fine in a single D5. After about 2500rpm, the temp decrease was 1-2c. At that speed a D5 isn't kids enough to be noticeable over fans at about 1000-1200rpm. 

Perhaps if you had something like an Entho Pro with max GTS rads on one D5 sure... bit just get another D5??? lol. I don't get it. 

That said, I'm bored with their looks after what seems like an eternity and will switch to Heatkiller next build.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Am I the only person who has never had an issue with HWL restrictive flow and five that characters to be totally overblown. I've had 2xGTS 360s and 1 240 in a loop run just fine in a single D5. After about 2500rpm, the temp decrease was 1-2c. At that speed a D5 isn't kids enough to be noticeable over fans at about 1000-1200rpm.
> 
> Perhaps if you had something like an Entho Pro with max GTS rads on one D5 sure... bit just get another D5??? lol. I don't get it.
> 
> That said, I'm bored with their looks after what seems like an eternity and will switch to Heatkiller next build.


Looks/change is one thing. I agree on flow thing, its more to keep us going in this hobby. Otherwise there isn’t need to change or watercool in general.


----------



## rgod55

Section31 said:


> Heatkiller Block is scheduled in Summer (after Radeon 6000). See your PM


Awesome news! Can't wait!!


----------



## Section31

rgod55 said:


> Awesome news! Can't wait!!


Thats an guess only lol. I myself managed to side grade to strix 3080ti and gained some cash. Now working on reselling the optimus ftw3 block (proving more difficult than thought)


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> Thats an guess only lol. I myself managed to side grade to strix 3080ti and gained some cash. Now working on reselling the optimus ftw3 block (proving more difficult than thought)


aint that the truth, ive got an intel signature v2 block for sale with no interest!


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> aint that the truth, ive got an intel signature v2 block for sale with no interest!


Its all about pricing and timing.


----------



## Shawnb99

paskowitz said:


> Am I the only person who has never had an issue with HWL restrictive flow and five that characters to be totally overblown. I've had 2xGTS 360s and 1 240 in a loop run just fine in a single D5.


Do you have a flow meter? Otherwise you're just in ignorance if you have an issue or not. I've never had issues with a lot of things I never monitored or checked, doesn't mean it's all fine.


----------



## paskowitz

Shawnb99 said:


> Do you have a flow meter? Otherwise you're just in ignorance if you have an issue or not. I've never had issues with a lot of things I never monitored or checked, doesn't mean it's all fine.


You don't need to know what the flow is to know if I have an issue with temps. If I can monitor the relationship between pump speed and processor temp (which is all that matters at the end of the day) with a relatively steady load, I don't need to know flow. The only metric that matters is temps (and noise relative to that). Even with 3x GTS rads, past 2500rpm the temp decrease is minimal in my experience. And 2500rpm on a D5 is not loud at all, especially if the fans are 1000rpm or more. Even if I had to apply more pump speed to take the delta from say +6c to +3c, that would only matter if I could hear the pump at that higher RPM. Knowing the flow rate may help detect buildup in the loop TBF... but that shouldn't happen if you do proper loop prep.


----------



## Shawnb99

paskowitz said:


> You don't need to know what the flow is to know if I have an issue with temps. If I can monitor the relationship between pump speed and processor temp (which is all that matters at the end of the day) with a relatively steady load, I don't need to know flow. The only metric that matters is temps (and noise relative to that). Even with 3x GTS rads, past 2500rpm the temp decrease is minimal in my experience. And 2500rpm on a D5 is not loud at all, especially if the fans are 1000rpm or more. Even if I had to apply more pump speed to take the delta from say +6c to +3c, that would only matter if I could hear the pump at that higher RPM. Knowing the flow rate may help detect buildup in the loop TBF... but that shouldn't happen if you do proper loop prep.


Sure and I don't need a speedometer on my car. I just judge the speed on the noise of the engine and the amount of people jumping or not out of the the way. Living in ignorance sure is bliss


----------



## ciarlatano

Section31 said:


> EKWB, Optimus (whenever that is). Aquacomputer needs to update there radiator lineup too. Some of the other brands. Based on what heatkiller did with flow restriction reduction, it means other brands will do it too. I have feeling even HWL will refresh there lineup in next couple years. Even the legendary Mo-Ra3 is being updated.


I have absolutely no faith that EK will make a rad that I would choose over HWL. Their last attempt at a slim rad was/is absolutely abysmal, and their 45mm thick rad performs on par with a 30mm GTS. Plus, the vid they showed from Computex certainly makes it appear that they are targeting those new to liquid cooling and the RGB-first crowd - which follows the quality downtrend in the name of mass sales path that they have embraced for five years or more now.

Has Optimus released any solid info on rads yet? I have seen them state that they are in their plans, but no actual information. If their rads follow the quality of their blocks, res and fittings, that will be one to watch.

The Heatkiller rads look great, and tested very well so far. But, EK, Optimus and Aquacomputer are all speculative at this point. It's hard to say that there are "lots of new rads with similar performance and less restriction than HWL" when the only one with any actual facts available is Heatkiller. I would also add in that the GTS is the only HWL with restriction issues.


----------



## Darb

ciarlatano said:


> I have absolutely no faith that EK will make a rad that I would choose over HWL. Their last attempt at a slim rad was/is absolutely abysmal, and their 45mm thick rad performs on par with a 30mm GTS. Plus, the vid they showed from Computex certainly makes it appear that they are targeting those new to liquid cooling and the RGB-first crowd - which follows the quality downtrend in the name of mass sales path that they have embraced for five years or more now.
> 
> Has Optimus released any solid info on rads yet? I have seen them state that they are in their plans, but no actual information. If their rads follow the quality of their blocks, res and fittings, that will be one to watch.
> 
> The Heatkiller rads look great, and tested very well so far. But, EK, Optimus and Aquacomputer are all speculative at this point. It's hard to say that there are "lots of new rads with similar performance and less restriction than HWL" when the only one with any actual facts available is Heatkiller. I would also add in that the GTS is the only HWL with restriction issues.


I agree, I have 2 GTX HWL rads waiting on my next build. They always score excellent for fluid restriction and heat dissipation at low fan rpms. I was very sad when Heatkiller just released 120 form factor rads. I have been running 140mm rads for a couple of years and do not see any reason to go back to 120mm. I am a big fan of Heatkiller and am using their products in my current build. Their rads look great and seem to perform better at medium fan speeds and higher.


----------



## Percy

Section31 said:


> Heatkiller Block is scheduled in Summer (after Radeon 6000). See your PM


source? I've been constantly checking twitter with no updates.


----------



## Section31

Percy said:


> source? I've been constantly checking twitter with no updates.


Go to hardwareluxx forum. Translate it to english. Basically Heatkiller owner and Markus respond to comments


----------



## paskowitz

Summer is June 20th to September 22nd... yikes. Please don't tell me they said FTW3 in "fall"... lol. IDK what they could be cooking up from a design perspective that could take this long (not taking into account manpower, logistics, etc). Perhaps they area designing the active backplate feature as a single model and thus can't just release a "normal" block first. Regardless, it would be nice to get some update at this stage. It's been months since the last one.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Joined the club with one of their blocks now. Got a HK IV Pro black copper and backplate coming my way. I'll either use it on my 2600K or maybe build a 4th gen system for fun.

I also have their 2080Ti block which is super clean and works very nicely on my FE.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Summer is June 20th to September 22nd... yikes. Please don't tell me they said FTW3 in "fall"... lol. IDK what they could be cooking up from a design perspective that could take this long (not taking into account manpower, logistics, etc). Perhaps they area designing the active backplate feature as a single model and thus can't just release a "normal" block first. Regardless, it would be nice to get some update at this stage. It's been months since the last one.


I doubt it. Look at there launches this year. Delayed. They stopped issuing updates timetables


----------



## paskowitz

In case anyone was wondering, 7-8c water temp to die temp delta with the XC3 block on a 3080 (2000-2130 core boost range, 10K memory, 108% power). I'd call those pretty good numbers.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> In case anyone was wondering, 7-8c water temp to die temp delta with the XC3 block on a 3080 (2000-2130 core boost range, 10K memory, 108% power). I'd call those pretty good numbers.


That's great result. How are the backplate resutls because if what Optimus said about there own active backplate solution, EKWB solution looks really expensive.


----------



## paskowitz

Section31 said:


> That's great result. How are the backplate resutls because if what Optimus said about there own active backplate solution, EKWB solution looks really expensive.


Testing the backplate on a 3080 wouldn't be indicative of much since I'm sure the block itself cools the memory just fine. Probably takes away a few C°. On a 3090, I'd have to imagine it wouldn't be much better than your average metal backplate. There isn't a ton of mass or machined fins for more surface area. It's not a similar spec to Optimus. 

I'm sure the FTW3 block will make for a good comparison. I only have a 3080 Ti and not a 3090, so similar situation. Perhaps I can lend it to somebody I know with a 3090 FTW3 to test once it's finally out.

Aesthetically, I just can't buy into EK's offering. Their quality isn't great either. Optimus has terrific build quality but the design is painfully bland. Aquacomputer's sideways "RTX" is a crime against humanity. Sigh.


----------



## Biggu

Anyone here have the 2011 narrow ILM adapter or block with adapter already on it?


----------



## lkramer

Biggu said:


> Anyone here have the 2011 narrow ILM adapter or block with adapter already on it?


I have a spare Heatkiller IV Basic Acetal Clean CPU block with the 2011 narrow ILM adapter.


----------



## Biggu

lkramer said:


> I have a spare Heatkiller IV Basic Acetal Clean CPU block with the 2011 narrow ILM adapter.


How does it do? I’ve got a heat killer iv pro acrylic nickel now but I just bought a dual cpu motherboard with narrow ilm. Considering buying the brackets to convert this and either buying a heat killer iv clean with narrow ilm already on it. I’ve also got a spare ek supremacy block laying around and the cheap part of me kinda wants to get the conversion block for that and just run one heat killer and one ek. I know this will work but it will bother me having mismatched blocks. I know if I buy the clean and do that with my pro it will bother me but atleast they will be same block style.


----------



## Takla

Shawnb99 said:


> Sure and I don't need a speedometer on my car. I just judge the speed on the noise of the engine and the amount of people jumping or not out of the the way. Living in ignorance sure is bliss


Such a bad analogy to compare a flowmeter for water with a speedometer of a car.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Reps!

Any idea when you'll be planning on releasing active backplates? Been waiting and waiting and its killing me 😌


----------



## lkramer

Biggu said:


> How does it do? I’ve got a heat killer iv pro acrylic nickel now but I just bought a dual cpu motherboard with narrow ilm. Considering buying the brackets to convert this and either buying a heat killer iv clean with narrow ilm already on it. I’ve also got a spare ek supremacy block laying around and the cheap part of me kinda wants to get the conversion block for that and just run one heat killer and one ek. I know this will work but it will bother me having mismatched blocks. I know if I buy the clean and do that with my pro it will bother me but atleast they will be same block style.



The Heatkiller IV Acetal Basic block performs very well. It is within a 1 C of the Pro block and has less slightly less flow restriction if I remember correctly. I have not used the block since late 2017 when I switched to Threadripper.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Reps!
> 
> Any idea when you'll be planning on releasing active backplates? Been waiting and waiting and its killing me 😌


Did you read optimus findings that there passive backplate cools just as well as ekwb active. I think that means the thermal pads and airflow play major role. So assuming watercool backplate is same thickness as the rest then changing the thermal pads are all you need.


----------



## Section31

lkramer said:


> The Heatkiller IV Acetal Basic block performs very well. It is within a 1 C of the Pro block and has less slightly less flow restriction if I remember correctly. I have not used the block since late 2017 when I switched to Threadripper.


It does just that we all know the next gen cpu block is coming from them (lga1700/am5)


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Did you read optimus findings that there passive backplate cools just as well as ekwb active. I think that means the thermal pads and airflow play major role. So assuming watercool backplate is same thickness as the rest then changing the thermal pads are all you need.


Tbh i did because my backplate on mine are around 70c (with 2 x small 40mm fans i can get it as low as 66c) ambient 21c.

But you know when you want something just because haha!

I'm about to test with heatsinks + 92mm fans blowing on the back and see what temps i can get it to. Will be using Arctic cooling thermal pads. Will report back tomorrow evening.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Tbh i did because my backplate on mine are around 70c (with 2 x small 40mm fans i can get it as low as 66c) ambient 21c.
> 
> But you know when you want something just because haha!
> 
> I'm about to test with heatsinks + 92mm fans blowing on the back and see what temps i can get it to. Will be using Arctic cooling thermal pads. Will report back tomorrow evening.


Hope it works


----------



## Chiraq

It appears the people at XFX have decided to make a v1 and a v2 version of their Merc cards. V1 is prolly replaced now, and that demands the waterblock makers have to redo their design for the V2 Merc cards, 6800/6900xt. 

Will Heatkiller please please please make a block that fits the v2 6800/6900xt XFX Merc cards? Please?


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> It does just that we all know the next gen cpu block is coming from them (lga1700/am5)


I mean we know a new next gen is coming out, I was asking specifics about the heatkiller IV basic / Pro performance on 2011 narrow ILM. I ended up getting a conversion kit for the block I already had and just bought a new one for the second CPU. it would bother me having two different blocks.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Hope it works


It works! Knocked nearly 10c off my vram temps!!!!

i used 9x 50x25mm 11mm tall heatsinks
Arctic Cooling Thermal Pads 0.5mm
2 x Noctua A9x14 92mm Chromax Fans

Fans at 1920rpm ~ 76c (previous 84c with ambient at 25c no heatsinks or fans)
Fans at 2200rpm ~ 74x (previous 84c with ambient at 25c no heatsinks or fans)

It is abit Janky but its helping keep temps down when Mining with it.


----------



## EniGma1987

Ya I had to add heatsinks and a fan onto my 3090 too otherwise I would get crashes after gaming for a while. Need a real active backplate.


----------



## Section31

Updated Mo-Ra3


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2514212
> View attachment 2514213
> 
> View attachment 2514214
> 
> 
> Updated Mo-Ra3


Is it really necessary to run 2 pumps? I ran a 1080 setup, more restrictive cos it was 3 single 360 rads and the D5 didn't break a sweat.


----------



## Shawnb99

Liquid4rt said:


> Is it really necessary to run 2 pumps? I ran a 1080 setup, more restrictive cos it was 3 single 360 rads and the D5 didn't break a sweat.


Do you have a flow meter cause otherwise you have no clue if it broke a sweat or not. I’d be very surprised if you were even pushing 0.5GPM


----------



## Liquid4rt

Shawnb99 said:


> Do you have a flow meter cause otherwise you have no clue if it broke a sweat or not. I’d be very surprised if you were even pushing 0.5GPM


Yup had a flow meter, the flow rate was sitting around 2.5lpm which translates to around 0.66gpm? This was on setting 4 on the D5's dial. I had 2 corsair XR7's (1 in the case and 1 external) then a thinner XR5 external mounted ontop of the XR7 for a total of 1080 rad space. It was a janky setup and still is but it works .


----------



## Shawnb99

Liquid4rt said:


> Yup had a flow meter, the flow rate was sitting around 2.5lpm which translates to around 0.66gpm? This was on setting 4 on the D5's dial. I had 2 corsair XR7's (1 in the case and 1 external) then a thinner XR5 external mounted ontop of the XR7 for a total of 1080 rad space. It was a janky setup and still is but it works .


Not bad flow then. I take back my criticism since most who make claims of no issues rarely have a flow meter.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Shawnb99 said:


> Not bad flow then. I take back my criticism since most who make claims of no issues rarely have a flow meter.


Yeah flow meters are the first thing i install, no matter installing loads of rads and cooling without knowing what your flow rates are. Also helps with diagnosing issues too, like when my cpu temps were high, the flow rate gave me a good indication of what could be the cause and with the help from some of the people on here we narrowed it down to the cpu block being bunged up.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Is it really necessary to run 2 pumps? I ran a 1080 setup, more restrictive cos it was 3 single 360 rads and the D5 didn't break a sweat.


Not sure but i was having issues with whining d5 pumps (not the pumps because i tried multiple ones).


----------



## Section31

Now for leak testing and pump testing.


----------



## Section31

Anyone with the mo-ra3 dual pump top know what is the expected difference in water temp readings between both pump if on


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> Anyone with the mo-ra3 dual pump top know what is the expected difference in water temp readings between both pump if on


They should be _very_ close to same. You may need to calibrate one or both of the sensors in aquasuite.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> They should be _very_ close to same. You may need to calibrate one or both of the sensors in aquasuite.


Thanks. I will do so when I finish the build.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> They should be _very_ close to same. You may need to calibrate one or both of the sensors in aquasuite.


I fixed that. How are you finding flow rates. I noticed to get 1gpm you need each pump at 60-70%. At least the pump whining noise gone


----------



## Mxj1

Section31 said:


> I fixed that. How are you finding flow rates. I noticed to get 1gpm you need each pump at 60-70%. At least the pump whining noise gone


Flow rates not great, about where yours are.


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Flow rates not great, about where yours are.


Good to know. Hopefully next mo-ra improves greatly on flow restrictions parts.


----------



## djwarreng

Liquid4rt said:


> It works! Knocked nearly 10c off my vram temps!!!!
> 
> i used 9x 50x25mm 11mm tall heatsinks
> Arctic Cooling Thermal Pads 0.5mm
> 2 x Noctua A9x14 92mm Chromax Fans
> 
> Fans at 1920rpm ~ 76c (previous 84c with ambient at 25c no heatsinks or fans)
> Fans at 2200rpm ~ 74x (previous 84c with ambient at 25c no heatsinks or fans)
> 
> It is abit Janky but its helping keep temps down when Mining with it.


That looks great...do you have a link to the heatsinks...I saw some on watercool's website that were smaller and meant for ram but I think your setup seems very efficient.
I was originally planning on buying a bunch of these and just putting them on the backplate and then blasting noctua ippc 3000 fans at them from the top of my case





passive cooler for VGA RAM (12-pack), 12,95 €


Passiv Kühlkörper für RAM Bausteine auf Grafikkarten Idieal zur Verwendung mit der HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ Core Serie




shop.watercool.de


----------



## Liquid4rt

djwarreng said:


> That looks great...do you have a link to the heatsinks...I saw some on watercool's website that were smaller and meant for ram but I think your setup seems very efficient.
> I was originally planning on buying a bunch of these and just putting them on the backplate and then blasting noctua ippc 3000 fans at them from the top of my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> passive cooler for VGA RAM (12-pack), 12,95 €
> 
> 
> Passiv Kühlkörper für RAM Bausteine auf Grafikkarten Idieal zur Verwendung mit der HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ Core Serie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2514926


I used these which work great









sourcing map Electronic Radiators Heatsink for MOS GPU IC Chip Black 50 x 25 x 5 mm 6pcs: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science


sourcing map Electronic Radiators Heatsink for MOS GPU IC Chip Black 50 x 25 x 5 mm 6pcs: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science



www.amazon.co.uk





Wanted bigger ones so its less work sticking them down. I laid down a big piece of thermal pad that is measured to the exact size of the heatsinks combined. The whole job took around 5 mins. 

Went with the Arctic cooling Thermal pad as its less sticky so easy to remove when it comes to it and won't leave residue.


----------



## djwarreng

Liquid4rt said:


> I used these which work great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sourcing map Electronic Radiators Heatsink for MOS GPU IC Chip Black 50 x 25 x 5 mm 6pcs: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science
> 
> 
> sourcing map Electronic Radiators Heatsink for MOS GPU IC Chip Black 50 x 25 x 5 mm 6pcs: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted bigger ones so its less work sticking them down. I laid down a big piece of thermal pad that is measured to the exact size of the heatsinks combined. The whole job took around 5 mins.
> 
> Went with the Arctic cooling Thermal pad as its less sticky so easy to remove when it comes to it and won't leave residue.


Thanks! That looks perfect for this.


----------



## Liquid4rt

djwarreng said:


> Thanks! That looks perfect for this.


You're very welcome mate.


----------



## Section31

These just came in


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Daniel Can you please update us regarding the compatibility of the blocks for the 3080 Ti line? The online gpu compatibility is outdated. For example, I purchased a EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra Hybrid card, is there any block suitable for this gpu?


----------



## Section31

deme said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Can you please update us regarding the compatibility of the blocks for the 3080 Ti line? The online gpu compatibility is outdated. For example, I purchased a EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra Hybrid card, is there any block suitable for this gpu?


It should be compatible if its 3090XC3 (3080TI XC3 just doesn't have the backside memory)


----------



## Barefooter

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2515052
> 
> View attachment 2515053
> 
> 
> These just came in


Beautiful radiators!

If they made them with multi ports I would consider using them in the future.


----------



## Biggu

Barefooter said:


> Beautiful radiators!
> 
> If they made them with multi ports I would consider using them in the future.


Same here, if they were multi port Id be all over them


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Same here, if they were multi port Id be all over them


I predict they will be replaced by optimus in next build


----------



## Bart

I just cannot get excited about radiators, LOL! I think I have too many already, so they're never a thought for me.


----------



## Section31

Bart said:


> I just cannot get excited about radiators, LOL! I think I have too many already, so they're never a thought for me.


I gave the bulk of mine away or sold off.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

deme said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Can you please update us regarding the compatibility of the blocks for the 3080 Ti line? The online gpu compatibility is outdated. For example, I purchased a EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra Hybrid card, is there any block suitable for this gpu?


All of our 3080/3090 blocks will also fit the 3080Ti models if the manufacturers dont changed the pcb which isnt the case for the EVGA XC3 card and I think for most of the other 3080Ti cards.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Surprise! Our Heatkiller V for RX 6800/6900 XT is ready for preorder: HEATKILLER V for RX 6800/6900XT

Compared to the previous model, a few things have been optimised in order to improve cooling performance and flow rate.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Surprise! Our Heatkiller V for RX 6800/6900 XT is ready for preorder: HEATKILLER V for RX 6800/6900XT
> 
> Compared to the previous model, a few things have been optimised in order to improve cooling performance and flow rate.
> 
> View attachment 2516998


Milling looks great as usual. Hopefully clear skies ahead for the FTW3 block.


----------



## deme

@Watercool-Daniel any news regarding the FTW3 block?


----------



## srg3037

deme said:


> @Watercool-Daniel any news regarding the FTW3 block?


I emailed Watercool this weekend because I was lucky enough to land a 3080 TI FTW3. He responded back this morning and said "Already working on cooler...it will take a few weeks to go through." Not sure if that means availability but my guess that means when production starts. 

On a side note, I already have a 3080 XC3 with a heatkiller block on it already. So if anyone is interested let me know through PM. Probably will have it ready to sell this weekend.


----------



## Section31

hardwareluxx forum is where they post quickest to let people know


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

We still dont have a release date for the ftw3 block, but it wont take long anymore since after the AMD blocks we can now fully concentrate on the evga block. And trust me the ftw3 block will benefit from the lessons we have learned with the amd block


----------



## Section31

Watercool-Daniel said:


> We still dont have a release date for the ftw3 block, but it wont take long anymore since after the AMD blocks we can now fully concentrate on the evga block. And trust me the ftw3 block will benefit from the lessons we have learned with the amd block


Thanks for the update. I saw the posts by markus on hardwareluxx weeks ago.


----------



## Michaelnt16

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2515052
> 
> View attachment 2515053
> 
> 
> These just came in


How long did you wait for them? I ordered over a week ago and I’m still waiting on any updates


----------



## Section31

Michaelnt16 said:


> How long did you wait for them? I ordered over a week ago and I’m still waiting on any updates


7-14days if international


----------



## Liquid4rt

Any update on the active cooled backplates? Still waiting as you guys said it would be a thing soonish.


----------



## paskowitz

Liquid4rt said:


> Any update on the active cooled backplates? Still waiting as you guys said it would be a thing soonish.


I wouldn't hold your breath. There was a fair amount of time between the XC3 block and the AMD blocks (which still don't have product pics).


----------



## Liquid4rt

paskowitz said:


> I wouldn't hold your breath. There was a fair amount of time between the XC3 block and the AMD blocks (which still don't have product pics).


 4000 series will be out by the time we get these, i'm still gonna hold out for it i think. The MP5 Works backplate block is looking more and more tempting though.


----------



## paskowitz

So, basically EVGA XC3 face design, partner reference end piece, and a backplate that wraps around the top side.

 https://shop.watercool.de/mediafiles/Manuals/MA_HK_V_VGA_RX_6000_Series_A5.pdf
 https://shop.watercool.de/mediafiles/Manuals/MA_HK_V_VGA_RX6800_Series_Backplate_A5.pdf


----------



## djwarreng

paskowitz said:


> So, basically EVGA XC3 face design, partner reference end piece, and a backplate that wraps around the top side.
> 
> https://shop.watercool.de/mediafiles/Manuals/MA_HK_V_VGA_RX_6000_Series_A5.pdf
> https://shop.watercool.de/mediafiles/Manuals/MA_HK_V_VGA_RX6800_Series_Backplate_A5.pdf
> 
> View attachment 2519748
> 
> View attachment 2519749


The XC3 Block looks amazing...the backplate is slightly different on this one though


----------



## alucardu

Hi, hope I'm in the right place. I want to mount my heatkiller reservoir horizontal. I got the basic mounting kit and the dual port top, but i didn't get any screws with the basic mounting kit to secure the reservoir to the case.

I've found out it's a M4 and it looks like it's 10mm long, is there anyone who mounted there reservoir horizontally and secured it with the basic mounting kit? What screws did you use?

I'm considering these 10mm ones: 1https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-inbusbout-m4-x-10-mm-platkop-verzinkt-12-stuks/p/B458099


----------



## InfoSeeker

alucardu said:


> Hi, hope I'm in the right place. I want to mount my heatkiller reservoir horizontal. I got the basic mounting kit and the dual port top, but i didn't get any screws with the basic mounting kit to secure the reservoir to the case.
> 
> I've found out it's a M4 and it looks like it's 10mm long, is there anyone who mounted there reservoir horizontally and secured it with the basic mounting kit? What screws did you use?
> 
> I'm considering these 10mm ones: 1https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-inbusbout-m4-x-10-mm-platkop-verzinkt-12-stuks/p/B458099


I have not mounted a HeatKiller reservoir horizontally, but it should be doable as long as you do not use the big-mouth top. Also keep in mind filling the loop.

The screw you list appears to be a flat head, which usually have sloped heads. Here are some options for M4x10mm screws at HighFlow.nl.


----------



## paskowitz

Navi block


----------



## TeslaHUN

I have msi 3080 gamingx trio ,but I can't find Heatkiller V block for it . Am I bliind or they don't have such block ?


----------



## Section31

TeslaHUN said:


> I have msi 3080 gamingx trio ,but I can't find Heatkiller V block for it . Am I bliind or they don't have such block ?


no block planned for that. Reference, xc3, ftw3 only supported from nvidia side.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Section31 said:


> no block planned for that. Reference, xc3, ftw3 only supported from nvidia side.


Thanks ! Guess Im going for Barrow LRC 2.0 3090 block then.


----------



## Section31

TeslaHUN said:


> Thanks ! Guess Im going for Barrow LRC 2.0 3090 block then.


Sorry but this year the support is lacking from Aquacomputer/Watercool/Techn/Optimus.


----------



## paskowitz

TeslaHUN said:


> Thanks ! Guess Im going for Barrow LRC 2.0 3090 block then.


Obviously this GPU gen was a mess, but in a future ideal world... I would always try to target getting the reference card (this gen was garbage for that) for the quickest block availability. Asus's Strix model or EVGA's FTW3 are also good options as they sell more than other models (Aorus/MSI/PNY/Zotac) and almost always get a block from the smaller, higher end brands (Aquacomputer/Watercool/Optimus/etc) ... but...the wait will be long (even in an ideal world).


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Obviously this GPU gen was a mess, but in a future ideal world... I would always try to target getting the reference card (this gen was garbage for that) for the quickest block availability. Asus's Strix model or EVGA's FTW3 are also good options as they sell more than other models (Aorus/MSI/PNY/Zotac) and almost always get a block from the smaller, higher end brands (Aquacomputer/Watercool/Optimus/etc) ... but...the wait will be long (even in an ideal world).


What can we do. One screwed up generation lol. I always buy reference (founders) but this generation nope. Ended up buying 3090FTW3 then trading down to 3080TI Strix with Cash. Three blocks in total too (One Optimus FTW3, One Temporary Bitspower 3090 Strix and one Optimus Strix). Broke relatively even on the block side except the BP one.


----------



## Liquid4rt

finally ordered a MO-RA3 360 LT! Just wondering whats the best way to mount a single D5 pump with top to the side of the radiator? Can't see any mounting brackets available to do this.

Also anyone got a flow direction/diagram of the MO-RA3 360 LT?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Liquid4rt said:


> finally ordered a MO-RA3 360 LT! Just wondering whats the best way to mount a single D5 pump with top to the side of the radiator? Can't see any mounting brackets available to do this.
> 
> Also anyone got a flow direction/diagram of the MO-RA3 360 LT?


Easiest way to use a single D5 pump is to get one of these brackets (black, white, SS), and one of these D5 integrated reservoirs (100, 150, 200), plus a Basic Mounting Kit.









There is no preferred flow direction. It can go from top to bottom or bottom to top, with the same cooling efficiency.

Edit: below is a picture of the core to follow the flow path:


----------



## Streetdragon

MoRa is nice


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> finally ordered a MO-RA3 360 LT! Just wondering whats the best way to mount a single D5 pump with top to the side of the radiator? Can't see any mounting brackets available to do this.
> 
> Also anyone got a flow direction/diagram of the MO-RA3 360 LT?


I would go dual pump top option. Something like the one done by user here including an aquacomputer next flow meter. 

If you do prefer single, just an headsup but i randomly tested aquacomputer ultitube on the original mount. It works even though one of the securing screws requires drilling. Then i would go with the aquacomputer leak shield under the circumstance. This is one of the cases i can see it being useful.


----------



## dymONE

@Watercool-Daniel
Do you have something on the table like a MO-RA4 based on the new RAD series radiator design?


----------



## Liquid4rt

InfoSeeker said:


> Easiest way to use a single D5 pump is to get one of these brackets (black, white, SS), and one of these D5 integrated reservoirs (100, 150, 200), plus a Basic Mounting Kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no preferred flow direction. It can go from top to bottom or bottom to top, with the same cooling efficiency.
> 
> Edit: below is a picture of the core to follow the flow path:





Section31 said:


> I would go dual pump top option. Something like the one done by user here including an aquacomputer next flow meter.
> 
> If you do prefer single, just an headsup but i randomly tested aquacomputer ultitube on the original mount. It works even though one of the securing screws requires drilling. Then i would go with the aquacomputer leak shield under the circumstance. This is one of the cases i can see it being useful.


Was thinking about that bracket and drilling my own holes as i have a variety of different pump mounts from EK that i could use. Have no thought on using another res in the loop as i will be purely relying on the one in the rig. I think from looking at it, Dual D5's should be enough with 1 on the radiator and 1 in the rig run in Serial. 

Does the leakshield work with soft tubing as i use a mix of both? I figured it wouldn't as it would just collapse any soft tubing with the vacuum.


----------



## Shawnb99

Liquid4rt said:


> Was thinking about that bracket and drilling my own holes as i have a variety of different pump mounts from EK that i could use. Have no thought on using another res in the loop as i will be purely relying on the one in the rig. I think from looking at it, Dual D5's should be enough with 1 on the radiator and 1 in the rig run in Serial.
> 
> Does the leakshield work with soft tubing as i use a mix of both? I figured it wouldn't as it would just collapse any soft tubing with the vacuum.


It doesn't work with more then 1 pump in the loop either, least not unless you run them at lower speeds.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Shawnb99 said:


> It doesn't work with more then 1 pump in the loop either, least not unless you run them at lower speeds.


Wait so what are you saying? I can only run 1 pump in the gpu loop for the Mo-RA3 360?


----------



## Shawnb99

Liquid4rt said:


> Wait so what are you saying? I can only run 1 pump in the gpu loop for the Mo-RA3 360?


Only 1 pump is recommended for the Leakshield


----------



## Liquid4rt

Shawnb99 said:


> Only 1 pump is recommended for the Leakshield


Ah fair enough! Forgot about that!

Hmmm may need to rethink this then unless i don't run the leak shield.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Liquid4rt said:


> Ah fair enough! Forgot about that!
> 
> Hmmm may need to rethink this then unless i don't run the leak shield.





NEW: LEAKSHIELD - the safest liquid cooling system in the world - English forum - Aqua Computer Forum


----------



## Liquid4rt

InfoSeeker said:


> NEW: LEAKSHIELD - the safest liquid cooling system in the world - English forum - Aqua Computer Forum


Thanks will have a read into it today. Been really interested in the system since they released it.


----------



## Liquid4rt

I've finally completed my main rig! Over the friggin moon with it!


----------



## djwarreng

Liquid4rt said:


> I've finally completed my main rig! Over the friggin moon with it!
> 
> View attachment 2520711


looks fantastic!


----------



## Liquid4rt

djwarreng said:


> looks fantastic!


Thanks mate, really pleased with it. The Mo-RA3 is the last piece of the puzzle to implement, just a shame its a few weeks away.


----------



## chibi

Thinking about a MORA 420, I assume the Tube 200 D5 would be best fit to the side for filling the gap vertically?

@LiquidHaus - can you share what spec you used for your D5 Tube on your MORA? Is it the 420 model? Thanks


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Thinking about a MORA 420, I assume the Tube 200 D5 would be best fit to the side for filling the gap vertically?
> 
> @LiquidHaus - can you share what spec you used for your D5 Tube on your MORA? Is it the 420 model? Thanks


Look at cennis2018 diy mo-ra3. Its an better idea imo.

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/p44bub

For Mo-Ra3 420, I tried watercool and even aquacomputer ultitube works on the mo-ra3 mount (both wor).


----------



## chibi

Section31 said:


> For Mo-Ra3 420, I tried watercool and even aquacomputer ultitube works on the mo-ra3 mount (both wor).


Can I get a picture of your MORA setup? Only thing holding me off from external rad is the cable management to get power/pwm to the fans and pump/res haha. I saw something posted a DIY cable somewhere here before and it looked amazing. I think it was an aviator cable or something.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Can I get a picture of your MORA setup? Only thing holding me off from external rad is the cable management to get power/pwm to the fans and pump/res haha. I saw something posted a DIY cable somewhere here before and it looked amazing. I think it was an aviator cable or something.


It's hidden somewhere here or Optimus Thread. Also i think guy you are referring to was MX1J, very nicely done.


----------



## chibi

I'm thinking 420 + 4x NF-A20 fans. But that will come later, I'm always going back and forth for my next build lol. I changed cases twice now and now I don't know what case to get, that depends really if I get the MORA or not.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I'm thinking 420 + 4x NF-A20 fans. But that will come later, I'm always going back and forth for my next build lol. I changed cases twice now and now I don't know what case to get, that depends really if I get the MORA or not.


v3000+. Mo-Ra3 will always help with tdp going up. If you need extra cooling use it and it helps when testing out new loops.


----------



## Symbiose

Hello!

I'm thinking to build a pc with two heatkiller rad 360-L and a heatkiller tube 100 D5 inside a Lian li o11 mini case, I made the calcs of dimensionais and if I am correct I Will have 3mm remain inside the case. With this config I cant tube above of heatkiller tube 100 because theres only 3mm between the rads and the reservoir.

Has anyone here already set up a water cooled system inside the lian li o11 mini?


----------



## Section31

Symbiose said:


> Hello!
> 
> I'm thinking to build a pc with two heatkiller rad 360-L and a heatkiller tube 100 D5 inside a Lian li o11 mini case, I made the calcs of dimensionais and if I am correct I Will have 3mm remain inside the case. With this config I cant tube above of heatkiller tube 100 because theres only 3mm between the rads and the reservoir.
> 
> Has anyone here already set up a water cooled system inside the lian li o11 mini?


It might be tight but doable. You got to place fill and drain port in different location.


----------



## Liquid4rt

chibi said:


> Can I get a picture of your MORA setup? Only thing holding me off from external rad is the cable management to get power/pwm to the fans and pump/res haha. I saw something posted a DIY cable somewhere here before and it looked amazing. I think it was an aviator cable or something.


I use Arctic cooling P12's with the daisy chain cable, literally only have 1 pwm cable running to a controller in the case which is powered by sata. It's tidy and efficient without cable mess. If you get a pump with a dial on the back for manual control then you only need a sata or molex cable to power it so in total 2 cables to run which can be tied to the inlet or outlet line going back into the rig.


----------



## cennis

I am running a D5 next with my MORA, which only requires one sata power from the PC. It is powering 8 A12x25 fans using a splitty9. The D5 next can be programmed to have a fan curve etc.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Yesterday I ordered a MO-RA3 420 stainless directly from Watercool. How long would it take to be delivered to the US?


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Yesterday I ordered a MO-RA3 420 stainless directly from Watercool. How long would it take to be delivered to the US?


2weeks if it in stock. The Mo-ra3 been backordered in the past even at watercool


----------



## Yul

Hi there. I have two 150 heatkiller tubes. The first one passes the leak test without losing air for 8 hours. It has a 5mm ring at the bottom and a 4mm ring at the top multiport. However, the second one I bought came with two 5 and 4 mm rings. This one does not pass any type of test. If I install two rings of 5 it improves in terms of pressure loss. However, in a 10 minute test you can see how the needle moves slightly.
Has something similar happened to someone?

Thanks and best regards.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> We still dont have a release date for the ftw3 block, but it wont take long anymore since after the AMD blocks we can now fully concentrate on the evga block. And trust me the ftw3 block will benefit from the lessons we have learned with the amd block


Any chance the FTW3 block makes it off the assembly line before the 1 year anniversary of the 3080/3090 😉


----------



## deme

It's really annoying to not have a block almost a year after the 3080/3090 presentation...I am really considering jumping the EK wagon, despite not liking it at all. It's ridiculous waiting for such a long time 😕. Its so bad from Watercool's side that its easier to grab a 3080/3090 than their block lol


----------



## Turgin

deme said:


> It's really annoying to not have a block almost a year after the 3080/3090 presentation...I am really considering jumping the EK wagon, despite not liking it at all. It's ridiculous waiting for such a long time 😕. Its so bad from Watercool's side that its easier to grab a 3080/3090 than their block lol


That's exactly what I did. Bought the ek block for my 3080 FTW3 a few months ago because I got tired of waiting. I will still swap to a Watercool block when I can get my hands on one. It works but I just feel dirty with it in there


----------



## Section31

Turgin said:


> That's exactly what I did. Bought the ek block for my 3080 FTW3 a few months ago because I got tired of waiting. I will still swap to a Watercool block when I can get my hands on one. It works but I just feel dirty with it in there


Actually another option if your in the us is optimus blemish ftw3 blocks. 270usd for copper. Thats not much more than watercool and ekwb one.


----------



## djwarreng

deme said:


> It's really annoying to not have a block almost a year after the 3080/3090 presentation...I am really considering jumping the EK wagon, despite not liking it at all. It's ridiculous waiting for such a long time 😕. Its so bad from Watercool's side that its easier to grab a 3080/3090 than their block lol


I would go Optimus if you really want a really high quality block now and can't wait for the heatkiller block


----------



## EniGma1987

Optimus high quality? Lol. I tried their blocks one generation and hated it. Felt like nothing but cheap plastic someone machines in their garage home shop. Doesnt even come close to touching Watercool products.


----------



## deme

djwarreng said:


> I would go Optimus if you really want a really high quality block now and can't wait for the heatkiller block


As a European, Optimus products are pretty much not a viable option at all. With the same amount of money I could buy an EK block + a Heatkiller one (if ever released) 😅


----------



## Section31

deme said:


> As a European, Optimus products are pretty much not a viable option at all. With the same amount of money I could buy an EK block + a Heatkiller one (if ever released) 😅


Just be patient with watercool. There products look very good, even better than Aquacomputer though i wish they have better backplate solution (active).


----------



## Section31

Watercool CPU IV after 6years of usage


----------



## Liquid4rt

Finally got my Mo-RA3 yesterday after 2 months wait! Such a beast of a radiator and my god its heavy! The wife answered the door and the DPD guy gave it her and she caught it with 1 hand not realising how heavy it was and nearly dropped it ! Got it all built up last night and works great, running basically ideal fan speed 600rpm and still maintaining 44c gpu core temp while playing flight sim. My old setup would require at least 1500rpm fan speed to maintain this temp, such a difference. Not tested it further yet as i finished quite late.

Just a slight issue with one of my QD's, its rattling when there's flow going through it so i think there's either something trapped in it and rattling or its fault. The locking mechanism is a little stiff as well, doesn't pull back smoothly like it use to. Anyone experienced this with QD's?


----------



## xi3deiam

So... long story short, I was tired when I ordered my Mora3 and I grabbed the 360 instead of the 420... and when I realized my mistake, it was when I was opening it and shipping it back to Europe just didn't sound like the best plan to me. So I went with it and it works perfectly fine.

My question is. Does anyone know if the D5 dual top pump by watercool will work attaching to the 360? I know there is the whole unit (the module that has the top and the mounting plate) which won't work (since the 360 is smaller than the 420), but I wasn't sure if just the double pump housing could be attached. Anyone happen to know?


----------



## Liquid4rt

Has anyone used the new T30 Phantek fans on their MO-RA's yet? Is it worth the £240 upgrade?

Contemplating life choices right now lol....


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Has anyone used the new T30 Phantek fans on their MO-RA's yet? Is it worth the £240 upgrade?
> 
> Contemplating life choices right now lol....


I replaced my a12x25 with them (watercool new internal rads). Not much performance improvement but super clean cable management.










Im waiting for 140mm version to replace the SL140.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> I replaced my a12x25 with them (watercool new internal rads). Not much performance improvement but super clean cable management.
> 
> View attachment 2523206
> 
> 
> Im waiting for 140mm version to replace the SL140.


Also what size screws come with the T30's? Wondering because if i was to replace my fans on my Mo-RA3 360, would the screws that come with the T30 fit in the MO-RA3 360.

Are they M3 Screws?


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Also what size screws come with the T30's? Wondering because if i was to replace my fans on my Mo-RA3 360, would the screws that come with the T30 fit in the MO-RA3 360.
> 
> Are they M3 Screws?


i had to order m3 35mm screws. Included screws are 6/32


----------



## Shawnb99

I wish there was a standard among radiator screws. All need to use the same screw at least be it M4 or whatever


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> i had to order m3 35mm screws. Included screws are 6/32


Thanks mate



Shawnb99 said:


> I wish there was a standard among radiator screws. All need to use the same screw at least be it M4 or whatever


Same, i have a box full of different length and thread size screws just because of this. It's really annoying, it would make so much more sense if it was standardised!


----------



## chibi

I agree, I would go with M3 or 6/32 screws smallest. This lets you put a silicon sleeve over to reduce vibrations further. Not necessarily needed, but fun overkill nice to have


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> silicon sleeve over to reduce vibrations further.


Even I didn't think of going this far. I like that idea now


----------



## chibi

Even with thicker screws, M4 for example, you just need to drill out the fan frame and it slips right in.


----------



## D-EJ915

I'd want something with threading that won't strip out from being re-screwed a bunch of times lol.


----------



## chibi

M3 would be a good middle ground then. Even re-screwing 6/32 you just need to go in easy. I find before starting the turn, just spin it counter clockwise until you feel it fall into place. Never stripped a screw using that method for work or play.


----------



## Liquid4rt

@Watercool-Daniel what's the word with compatibility with LGA 1700 CPU blocks? Will you be releasing brackets to fit existing hardware? 

Thanks


----------



## paskowitz

I think they said they are doing a new gen (Heatkiller V) of CPU blocks for LGA1700 (Intel) and LGA1718 (AMD)???


----------



## Liquid4rt

paskowitz said:


> I think they said they are doing a new gen (Heatkiller V) of CPU blocks for LGA1700 (Intel) and LGA1718 (AMD)???


Wonder if they will release in time for the new socket launch. Now that they've got the new radiator launch out of the way, should be seeing active backplates next and hopefully New cpu block.


----------



## Jokesterwild

@Watercool-Daniel will the 6800/6900 XT back plate be coming in more options than black in the near future?


----------



## Hequaqua

Jokesterwild said:


> @Watercool-Daniel will the 6800/6900 XT back plate be coming in more options than black in the near future?


I don't think Daniel is around anymore. I'm not 100% sure though.


----------



## Section31

Jokesterwild said:


> @Watercool-Daniel will the 6800/6900 XT back plate be coming in more options than black in the near future?


Go to hardwareluxx forum. WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo

You will find markus there posting


----------



## Liquid4rt

Got my T30's a few days ago and mounted on the MO-RA3. Looks absolutely epic and temps are great with little to no noise.


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Got my T30's a few days ago and mounted on the MO-RA3. Looks absolutely epic and temps are great with little to no noise.


Im waiting for 140m versions myself


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Im waiting for 140m versions myself


Not heard anything about them yet but im sure its in the works. Be interesting to see how they perform over the T30 120's.

Man had this discussion on reddit yesterday with a guy who was adamant that the T30's were rubbish with really low static pressure compared to everything else, even crappy QL's and basic fans. He quoted that the T30's only managed a measly 0.13 H20 static pressure where as everything else even noctuas being the best could manage a 2.7... I only then realised that he was confusing inch H20 and mm H20 lol as the Phanteks site quotes 0.13 in H20 and not in mm. Corrected him and he never replied again.... 😅


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Not heard anything about them yet but im sure its in the works. Be interesting to see how they perform over the T30 120's.
> 
> Man had this discussion on reddit yesterday with a guy who was adamant that the T30's were rubbish with really low static pressure compared to everything else, even crappy QL's and basic fans. He quoted that the T30's only managed a measly 0.13 H20 static pressure where as everything else even noctuas being the best could manage a 2.7... I only then realised that he was confusing inch H20 and mm H20 lol as the Phanteks site quotes 0.13 in H20 and not in mm. Corrected him and he never replied again.... 😅


They are in development. Couple of ppl including me, shawnb99 are interested in 140mm version for our mo-ra3 420. The 140mm fans options aren’t great.


----------



## ciarlatano

Liquid4rt said:


> Not heard anything about them yet but im sure its in the works. Be interesting to see how they perform over the T30 120's.
> 
> Man had this discussion on reddit yesterday with a guy who was adamant that the T30's were rubbish with really low static pressure compared to everything else, even crappy QL's and basic fans. He quoted that the T30's only managed a measly 0.13 H20 static pressure where as everything else even noctuas being the best could manage a 2.7... I only then realised that he was confusing inch H20 and mm H20 lol as the Phanteks site quotes 0.13 in H20 and not in mm. Corrected him and he never replied again.... 😅


Reddit is such a special place..... 🤣


----------



## dwolvin

There is so much truth in that statement you should be expecting a knock at the door...


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Liquid4rt said:


> @Watercool-Daniel what's the word with compatibility with LGA 1700 CPU blocks? Will you be releasing brackets to fit existing hardware?
> 
> Thanks


We are working on a conversion kit for LGA 1700.




Jokesterwild said:


> @Watercool-Daniel will the 6800/6900 XT back plate be coming in more options than black in the near future?


Yes, there are plans for a nickel backplate


----------



## Antykain

@Watercool-Daniel Sorry to bug ya.. Just curious about the 3080 FTW3 block progress. Itching to get my hands on one.. 🤔

Thanks!


----------



## deme

Antykain said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Sorry to bug ya.. Just curious about the 3080 FTW3 block progress. Itching to get my hands on one.. 🤔
> 
> Thanks!


Soon™ 😅 (Don't get your hopes up)


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

deme said:


> Soon™ 😅 (Don't get your hopes up)


I couldn't have said it any better  (Sorry no news so far)


----------



## deme

Watercool-Daniel said:


> I couldn't have said it any better  (Sorry no news so far)


@Watercool-Daniel Out of curiocity, is there any specific reason for such a delay? I could understand the delay if your other competitors delayed their launch too but this is not the case. Is the pcb that problematic or the FTW3 block is put in low priority?


----------



## paskowitz

deme said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Out of curiocity, is there any specific reason for such a delay? I could understand the delay if your other competitors delayed their launch too but this is not the case. Is the pcb that problematic or the FTW3 block is put in low priority?


IIRC, like the XC3 block (and AMD?), the design has been revised/redone a few times. That, plus COVID, plus small company with limited bandwidth who gets most of their revenue from B2B accounts, so B2C takes a back seat, would be my guess.

That said, given the whole situation, I think those left waiting for the FTW3 block would really appreciate some info:

A render (or even at least a teaser of a render) when it is close to finalized (I don't think the competition cares at this point)
Dimensions of the card once they are finalized (so we can at least plan fitment ahead of time)
Will the active backplate be available when the block is available? Alternate terminals, single slot I/O bracket? Again, helps planning.



Watercool-Daniel said:


> I couldn't have said it any better  (Sorry no news so far)


Perhaps it's not Watercool's style or philosophy or within their bandwidth, but just food for thought... Optimus has had a similar situation with delays. However, over time, they are providing detailed written and picture updates as they go through the manufacturing and development process. This is where we are at, here is a pic of a block on a mill, here is the render ATM, here is a change we made, here is something new we are working on, etc. Beyond just satiating impatience, I think people genuinely enjoy and are interested in this kind of content. It builds affinity with the brand. I think Watercool should strongly consider doing this in the future.


----------



## Antykain

deme said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Out of curiocity, is there any specific reason for such a delay? I could understand the delay if your other competitors delayed their launch too but this is not the case. Is the pcb that problematic or the FTW3 block is put in low priority?


With as many 3080/3090 FTW3's there are out there in the wild, I would figure the water block would have been a higher priority. Surely they will sell like hot cakes. I've already bought into the EK water block for my 3080 FTW3, but had still planned on getting the Heatkiller V FTW3 block upon release.. I guess it's time to keep moving on, from the sounds of it. 

Unfortunate..


----------



## xPvn

I remember when the ETA for the ftw3 waterblocks was February or March. I didn't realize this eta was for the year 2022. I've already purchased a alphacool & bykski card in the meantime.
You would think this would be a priority considering all the cards which share the ftw3 Pcb.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Ladies and Gents, does anyone know if the grill (High version) for the MO-RA3 fits over the T30 fans? I suspect it should as it says it fits for upto 32mm high fans but just want to double check.



Cheers


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Liquid4rt said:


> Ladies and Gents, does anyone know if the grill (High version) for the MO-RA3 fits over the T30 fans? I suspect it should as it says it fits for upto 32mm high fans but just want to double check.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Yes, I have the high version and there is more than 1cm clearance beyond my 25mm ML140 fans.


----------



## storm-chaser

Heakiller IV with bluetooth cooling lines.


----------



## Liquid4rt

0451 said:


> Yes, I have the high version and there is more than 1cm clearance beyond my 25mm ML140 fans.


perfect thanks man!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2514212
> View attachment 2514213
> 
> View attachment 2514214
> 
> 
> Updated Mo-Ra3


What 90 degree elbows are those?


----------



## Hequaqua

0451 said:


> What 90 degree elbows are those?


Look like EK to me.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

paskowitz said:


> IIRC, like the XC3 block (and AMD?), the design has been revised/redone a few times. That, plus COVID, plus small company with limited bandwidth who gets most of their revenue from B2B accounts, so B2C takes a back seat, would be my guess.


The problem with FTW3 is simply that we announced a date way too early back then, raising expectations that we unfortunately had to disappoint over and over again. So I can fully understand your frustration about that. The whole pandemic has not made it any easier for us.
All I can say at the moment is that we are working very hard on the finalization of the cooler. I'll try to get an update from the production team in the form of a render or photos.


Since there also was a question for the active backplate:

We follow a modular approach here. The goal is to cover a large part of the cards with a few basic types. A HEATKILLER V is necessary as a basis. But everything is still under reserve, the final tests are still pending.


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> The problem with FTW3 is simply that we announced a date way too early back then, raising expectations that we unfortunately had to disappoint over and over again. So I can fully understand your frustration about that. The whole pandemic has not made it any easier for us.
> All I can say at the moment is that we are working very hard on the finalization of the cooler. I'll try to get an update from the production team in the form of a render or photos.
> 
> 
> Since there also was a question for the active backplate:
> 
> We follow a modular approach here. The goal is to cover a large part of the cards with a few basic types. A HEATKILLER V is necessary as a basis. But everything is still under reserve, the final tests are still pending.


Thanks for the reply! It's an unfortunate situation. Hopefully, things will be smoothed out come next GPU generation (hopefully Nvidia makes things easier with a unified Founders and Reference PCB). I'm sure any info you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

One trend I noticed is that EVGA produced a lot more of the FTW3 model than the XC3 (at least in the US). In Europe, Asus cards are more readily available than EVGA. If only 2 non reference blocks can be made for a given generation, maybe the best strategy is to support the EVGA FTW3 and Asus TUF (or Strix) and not even consider anything else. Hopefully PCB schematics are available earlier next gen.


----------



## chibi

@Watercool-Daniel - can the Mora 360 support the watercool industrial dual d5 pump?

Also, is anyone able to assist with building this cable to connect to the Mora? 









DIY Power and USB Supply for external Radiator


This post shows how to solder a power supply for an external watercooling radiator




www.dev-eth0.de


----------



## InfoSeeker

chibi said:


> @Watercool-Daniel - can the Mora 360 support the watercool industrial dual d5 pump?
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is anyone able to assist with building this cable to connect to the Mora?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DIY Power and USB Supply for external Radiator
> 
> 
> This post shows how to solder a power supply for an external watercooling radiator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.dev-eth0.de


The MO-RA 360 cannot take the industrial dual pump mounting bracket for 420
But you could make your own bracket to mount to the HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter

This is a picture of a sidecar I designed:


----------



## Barefooter

InfoSeeker said:


> The MO-RA 360 cannot take the industrial dual pump mounting bracket for 420
> But you could make your own bracket to mount to the HEATKILLER® Tube - MO-RA3 Adapter
> 
> This is a picture of a sidecar I designed:
> View attachment 2525823


That looks awesome @InfoSeeker


----------



## InfoSeeker

Got my Mo-Ra3 420 sidecar mounted. Still need to move the fans over from the existing radiator, but pretty much ready to go. The unit is fully self contained with an OCTO, Hubby7 & small PCB for the LED light over the flow meter, all in the J-Box. There is a USB and a Molex 5V/12V 4-pin connector into the J-box.

FullFrontal
Sidecar1
Sidecar2
Sidecar3
FlowMeter
AlarmVid

Edit: there is a High Flow Next in the loop, in case you don't see it.


----------



## chibi

InfoSeeker said:


> Got my Mo-Ra3 420 sidecar mounted. Still need to move the fans over from the existing radiator, but pretty much ready to go. The unit is fully self contained with an OCTO, Hubby7 & small PCB for the LED light over the flow meter, all in the J-Box. There is a USB and a Molex 5V/12V 4-pin connector into the J-box.
> 
> FullFrontal
> Sidecar1
> Sidecar2
> Sidecar3
> FlowMeter
> AlarmVid


That's an awesome setup, great execution!


----------



## InfoSeeker

The analog meter and Flow NEXT sensor on my Mo-Ra3 side car are very close in their results.


Blue IndustriesFlow NEXT


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> Got my Mo-Ra3 420 sidecar mounted. Still need to move the fans over from the existing radiator, but pretty much ready to go. The unit is fully self contained with an OCTO, Hubby7 & small PCB for the LED light over the flow meter, all in the J-Box. There is a USB and a Molex 5V/12V 4-pin connector into the J-box.
> 
> FullFrontal
> Sidecar1
> Sidecar2
> Sidecar3
> FlowMeter
> AlarmVid
> 
> Edit: there is a High Flow Next in the loop, in case you don't see it.


Great work. I think the best thing to come from Covid is the great Mora builds. 😄


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> The analog meter and Flow NEXT sensor on my Mo-Ra3 side car are very close in their results.
> 
> 
> Blue IndustriesFlow NEXT
> View attachment 2526497
> 
> View attachment 2526498


Where can I find that analog flow meter?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> Where can I find that analog flow meter?


Spec sheet (model # F-40376LN-6 in table at bottom)
Vendor (0.2 - 2 GPM - 3/8" FPT)
Adapter (G 3/8 to G 1/4)
The end ports of the flow meter are 3/8 FNPT, which is a tapered pipe thread. But the short length of the BSPP adapter does NOT require a tap on the ports, it works fine as is.


----------



## ciarlatano

InfoSeeker said:


> Adapter (G 3/8 to G 1/4)


Totally unrelated, but that gave me a flashback to my XSPC Photon.....which is a really nice res, btw.


----------



## Section31

ciarlatano said:


> Totally unrelated, but that gave me a flashback to my XSPC Photon.....which is a really nice res, btw.


Those are nice adapter. If i ever go industrial solution like cpc colder lq6, those are what i need.


----------



## acoustic

I never saw this thread, but I love my HKIV Pro <3


----------



## dansi

anyone knows what condition are B-stock on heatkiller webstore? 
is it safe to get b-stock water blocks


----------



## InfoSeeker

dansi said:


> anyone knows what condition are B-stock on heatkiller webstore?
> is it safe to get b-stock water blocks


b-stock would indicate cosmetic issues, but fully functional.


----------



## geriatricpollywog




----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> View attachment 2527287


Clean runs


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Clean runs


Thanks. I’m happy with the way it turned out.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Got the fans moved over to the Mo-Ra3 420


----------



## Section31

InfoSeeker said:


> Got the fans moved over to the Mo-Ra3 420
> 
> View attachment 2527381


Nice. I cant wait till T30-140 come out. Perfect fans for the mo-ra3 420.


----------



## storm-chaser

Regarding the heatkiller IV copper water block:

*I just want to warn people to be very careful re-torqeing the screws that hold the base plate to the upper portion of the water block.* Be VERY careful when tightening the screws back up (like after block cleaning, etc) because the screws will strip in the soft copper VERY easily. I had to drill out the hole and use a helicoil to fix the problem and it wasn't fun. I was very very gentle with it, but still managed to strip the screw with just a very limited amount of pressure / torque on the allen key. Not sure if this was a fluke and perhaps I got one that was defective, as the other three seemed fine and torqued down with more force without stripping, but I figured I would put this out there anyway to save you the trouble.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

All done!


----------



## storm-chaser

0451 said:


> All done!
> 
> View attachment 2527405
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527406
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527408
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527409
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527407
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527410


What is this? A chiller? You aren't fooling around, I can see that much.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

storm-chaser said:


> What is this? A chiller? You aren't fooling around, I can see that much.


It's an ambient radiator with 9 x 140mm 2000 RPM fans, but it will become a chiller if I put it outside in the winter. I have 2 x 4.5 ft hoses and 2 x 8.5 ft hoses, so I can mount the radiator up to 13 feet away from the case. To the right of my case is my patio door.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> It's an ambient radiator with 9 x 140mm 2000 RPM fans, but it will become a chiller if I put it outside in the winter. I have 2 x 4.5 ft hoses and 2 x 8.5 ft hoses, so I can mount the radiator up to 13 feet away from the case. To the right of my case is my patio door.


I wonder how much better the in development replacement for mo-ra3 will be lol


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> I wonder how much better the in development replacement for mo-ra3 will be lol


Better looking you mean?


----------



## storm-chaser

0451 said:


> It's an ambient radiator with 9 x 140mm 2000 RPM fans, but it will become a chiller if I put it outside in the winter. I have 2 x 4.5 ft hoses and 2 x 8.5 ft hoses, so I can mount the radiator up to 13 feet away from the case. To the right of my case is my patio door.


I know my idea here is almost comical but it would be fun to test a full size car radiator and see how that performs. I'm almost curious enough to try it.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Better looking you mean?


I assume should be better performance. Would love if they can reduce the flow resistance and make and more usable cover per say. Other things include include better reservoir mounting and cable management.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> I assume should be better performance. Would love if they can reduce the flow resistance and make and more usable cover per say. Other things include include better reservoir mounting and cable management.


The radiator holds a lot of water and reducing its volume by flattening the pipes could improve flow rate. A flush square-body dual pump / res combo that doesn’t require 90 degree elbows could also improve flow rate and make it easier to set up, but this would take away from the art of the build. It would just become a fancy AIO at some point.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> The radiator holds a lot of water and reducing its volume by flattening the pipes could improve flow rate. A flush square-body dual pump / res combo that doesn’t require 90 degree elbows could also improve flow rate and make it easier to set up, but this would take away from the art of the build. It would just become a fancy AIO at some point.


I like those ideas as options


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Another angle. I friggin love this thing


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Another angle. I friggin love this thing
> View attachment 2527569


You do such an beautiful job. You should open an business helping other do these sort of setups. Even for myself, i may endup eventually paying someone to build my next rig (with my design input/customization). Right now i can make time for it and will do so but going forwards will look for builders or might even go the Asia route now i know i can just pay an individual there 5-15K HKD for them to do the bulk of the process and still use high end watercooling brands, etc.


----------



## SirCrabsAlot

0451 said:


> Another angle. I friggin love this thing
> View attachment 2527569


I don't know why I haven't considered going this route sooner. Rather than try and cram everything together and make it fit, this is so much easier and plus it looks so badass. Besides the obvious extra room required, do you know of any drawbacks, at all, going with a MORA (or similar) versus conventional in-case Watercooling? in your personal experience I mean.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> You do such an beautiful job. You should open an business helping other do these sort of setups. Even for myself, i may endup eventually paying someone to build my next rig (with my design input/customization). Right now i can make time for it and will do so but going forwards will look for builders or might even go the Asia route now i know i can just pay an individual there 5-15K HKD for them to do the bulk of the process and still use high end watercooling brands, etc.


Thanks! This build is my entire portfolio and I am nowhere near the level if LiquidHaus. I would be interested in doing all-stainless and glass builds for North American customers. Shipping to Asia would be expensive and time consuming. I really want to get into glass working and do a build by cutting and re-annealing laboratory glassware with ground-glass fittings.


SirCrabsAlot said:


> I don't know why I haven't considered going this route sooner. Rather than try and cram everything together and make it fit, this is so much easier and plus it looks so badass. Besides the obvious extra room required, do you know of any drawbacks, at all, going with a MORA (or similar) versus conventional in-case Watercooling? in your personal experience I mean.


There are no drawback, only benefits.

-Mora can be positioned anywhere you want, including outside or another room.

-Case can be fanless and dust-free. I only have to clean 1 radiator instead of 5. I just disconnect the hoses, remove the fans, and hit it with the pressure washer.

-External rads run cooler.

-Build is easier to transport because the weight and size are divided into 2 parts. I can take my build to a LAN party where before I couldn’t.

-Ice bucket benchmarking is easy. No internal rads to warm up the water.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Thanks! This build is my entire portfolio and I am nowhere near the level if LiquidHaus. I would be interested in doing all-stainless and glass builds for North American customers. Shipping to Asia would be expensive and time consuming. I really want to get into glass working and do a build by cutting and re-annealing laboratory glassware with ground-glass fittings.
> 
> There are no drawback, only benefits.
> 
> -Mora can be positioned anywhere you want, including outside or another room.
> 
> -Case can be fanless and dust-free. I only have to clean 1 radiator instead of 5. I just disconnect the hoses, remove the fans, and hit it with the pressure washer.
> 
> -External rads run cooler.
> 
> -Build is easier to transport because the weight and size are divided into 2 parts. I can take my build to a LAN party where before I couldn’t.
> 
> -Ice bucket benchmarking is easy. No internal rads to warm up the water.
> 
> View attachment 2527781


My only suggestion is don't go the sponsored route. I have talked with builder who got sponsored by one major water cooling companies and they get heavily restricted. Do freelance sponsorship with emphasis on doing customer builds (where the money is truly at).


----------



## Mxj1

0451 said:


> Another angle. I friggin love this thing


I did something similar with mine.  I powder coated my dual d5 brackets - so mine is like the opposite of yours... but i've always like the full stainless setup!
I need to sort out the lower 45 fitting, it needs a couple mm's of spacer on it to make it parallel.










That transition begs for a metal harldine, imo.



















I use a hubby on a 3dp mount in conjunction with my xlr cable to power the mora and give me usb control of the pumps.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> My only suggestion is don't go the sponsored route. I have talked with builder who got sponsored by one major water cooling companies and they get heavily restricted. Do freelance sponsorship with emphasis on doing customer builds (where the money is truly at).


The sponsored builds I see here are lame and I want nothing to do with that scene.



Mxj1 said:


> I did something similar with mine.  I powder coated my dual d5 brackets - so mine is like the opposite of yours... but i've always like the full stainless setup!
> I need to sort out the lower 45 fitting, it needs a couple mm's of spacer on it to make it parallel.
> 
> View attachment 2527788
> 
> 
> That transition begs for a metal harldine, imo.
> 
> View attachment 2527789
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527790
> 
> 
> I use a hubby on a 3dp mount in conjunction with my xlr cable to power the mora and give me usb control of the pumps.
> 
> View attachment 2527791


That's a nice setup with much cleaner fan-wire management than mine. Can you send me a product link to that fan mount? Also, where did you get this?










You have to shim the reservoir mount with 1-2 thin nylon washers from Ace Hardware. Long story, but I left my Heatkiller Konfigurator reservoir on the shelf at Ace and it got stolen and I had to order a new one.


----------



## Shawnb99

SirCrabsAlot said:


> Besides the obvious extra room required, do you know of any drawbacks, at all, going with a MORA (or similar) versus conventional in-case Watercooling? in your personal experience I mean.


The restriction is likely the main and only drawback where it’s highly recommended to go dual pumps because if it, though that’s also to help compensate for the added tubing as well.

Really looking forward to how they improve upon the Mora.


----------



## Biggu

Man seeing all these Mora builds really makes me want to go Mora and put the rad on the other side of the wall from my PC for a nice and quiet build.


----------



## Section31

Biggu said:


> Man seeing all these Mora builds really makes me want to go Mora and put the rad on the other side of the wall from my PC for a nice and quiet build.


Wait for New Mo-Ra3


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Wait for New Mo-Ra3


Do you mean MO-RA4? Has anything been announced?


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Do you mean MO-RA4? Has anything been announced?


It's in development per Jakob. They also are working on CPU V Block. No news since then. If you want to ask please to go to Hardwareluxx Watercool thread. Markus/Rico(owner of watercool) reply there. That or send an email off to watercool store support (Markus will reply to you).


----------



## acoustic

Any chance they said when the Heatkiller V CPU block would potentially arrive? Any info on it at all? I'm not on Hardwareluxx; I've never even heard of that site before lol.

I have noticed that ever since COVID hit they have slowed to a snail pace when it comes to development. The Ampere selection has been really bad, and they still haven't put an ETA for the Ampere FTW3 cards; at this point, just scrap the idea all together and work on getting materials for production on Lovelace and the new Heatkiller V CPU block.


----------



## chibi

I think their Ampere FTW3 card will go the way of Optimus 2080 Ti block - vaporware.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Any chance they said when the Heatkiller V CPU block would potentially arrive? Any info on it at all? I'm not on Hardwareluxx; I've never even heard of that site before lol.
> 
> I have noticed that ever since COVID hit they have slowed to a snail pace when it comes to development. The Ampere selection has been really bad, and they still haven't put an ETA for the Ampere FTW3 cards; at this point, just scrap the idea all together and work on getting materials for production on Lovelace and the new Heatkiller V CPU block.











WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


@Markus [WATERCOOL] Doch, das habe ich. Über das Kontaktformular auf der Page, glaube ich. Ich habe Rückantwort und ein Label erhalten. Radiator ist schon auf dem Weg zurück. Im Karton liegt der E-Mail-Verlauf mit farblich markierten, wichtigen Hinweisen. läuft alles schon. :)




www.hardwareluxx.de


----------



## Section31

WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


@Markus [WATERCOOL] Doch, das habe ich. Über das Kontaktformular auf der Page, glaube ich. Ich habe Rückantwort und ein Label erhalten. Radiator ist schon auf dem Weg zurück. Im Karton liegt der E-Mail-Verlauf mit farblich markierten, wichtigen Hinweisen. läuft alles schon. :)




www.hardwareluxx.de





Markus (Watercool):

Hello,

The FTW3 is quite advanced. After that, we will also announce further details on accessories such as vertical connection terminal and active backplate.


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> I think their Ampere FTW3 card will go the way of Optimus 2080 Ti block - vaporware.


Will be interesting how much people need it considering the north american side may have just gotten an Optimus Block in the end.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo
> 
> 
> @Markus [WATERCOOL] Doch, das habe ich. Über das Kontaktformular auf der Page, glaube ich. Ich habe Rückantwort und ein Label erhalten. Radiator ist schon auf dem Weg zurück. Im Karton liegt der E-Mail-Verlauf mit farblich markierten, wichtigen Hinweisen. läuft alles schon. :)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hardwareluxx.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Markus (Watercool):
> 
> Hello,
> 
> The FTW3 is quite advanced. After that, we will also announce further details on accessories such as vertical connection terminal and active backplate.


I really hope they don't get discouraged when it sells terribly. They are way, way too late to the party. My EK block performs very well (imo) with a 14c delta in absolute worst case scenario. I can't justify spending another $300+ for a block to get a 4-5c drop in delta that will give me a 0% performance increase, and I don't see 90% of buyers doing that either. The ultra enthusiasts already have purchased an Optimus block, and the rest of us probably grabbed a block already and won't be interested in buying another one when Lovelace is likely less than a year away at this point.

I love Watercool and their products, and their customer support was fantastic. I'll be buying a Heatkiller V block day1, even if it's only a marginal upgrade over the HK IV Pro.

Thanks for the link!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I just noticed you have the slim silicone RGB ring. I wondered what those were in the box for. I just installed mine after seeing this.



Section31 said:


> It's in development per Jakob. They also are working on CPU V Block. No news since then. If you want to ask please to go to Hardwareluxx Watercool thread. Markus/Rico(owner of watercool) reply there. That or send an email off to watercool store support (Markus will reply to you).


I'm not getting a 2nd one any time soon, just curious. I am not sure what my true flow rate is since my D5 NEXT are not calibrated yet. It is telling me 58g/h and that's with 4 total D5s running at 100%: 2 EK pumps in the case and 2 D5 NEXT on the sidecar.



acoustic said:


> I really hope they don't get discouraged when it sells terribly. They are way, way too late to the party. My EK block performs very well (imo) with a 14c delta in absolute worst case scenario. I can't justify spending another $300+ for a block to get a 4-5c drop in delta that will give me a 0% performance increase, and I don't see 90% of buyers doing that either. The ultra enthusiasts already have purchased an Optimus block, and the rest of us probably grabbed a block already and won't be interested in buying another one when Lovelace is likely less than a year away at this point.
> 
> I love Watercool and their products, and their customer support was fantastic. I'll be buying a Heatkiller V block day1, even if it's only a marginal upgrade over the HK IV Pro.
> 
> Thanks for the link!


I'm seeing 16165 in PR with my HC block which is near the best non-LN2 result on the Hall of Fame of 16396. Hopefully people who receive the Optimus KP block are well into the 16K range in PR so they get their money's worth.


----------



## paskowitz

acoustic said:


> I really hope they don't get discouraged when it sells terribly. They are way, way too late to the party. My EK block performs very well (imo) with a 14c delta in absolute worst case scenario. I can't justify spending another $300+ for a block to get a 4-5c drop in delta that will give me a 0% performance increase, and I don't see 90% of buyers doing that either. The ultra enthusiasts already have purchased an Optimus block, and the rest of us probably grabbed a block already and won't be interested in buying another one when Lovelace is likely less than a year away at this point.
> 
> I love Watercool and their products, and their customer support was fantastic. I'll be buying a Heatkiller V block day1, even if it's only a marginal upgrade over the HK IV Pro.
> 
> Thanks for the link!


I don't expect it to sell well either. I'm one of the few that has held out (stupid me), but I'm setting myself a deadline of Christmas. If it's not out by then, I'll get an Optimus or Bitspower block.


----------



## acoustic

paskowitz said:


> I don't expect it to sell well either. I'm one of the few that has held out (stupid me), but I'm setting myself a deadline of Christmas. If it's not out by then, I'll get an Optimus or Bitspower block.


As much as people **** on EK here (which made me really skeptical about buying one) my EK STRIX block has done a phenomenal job on my 3080TI STRIX. From what I've seen/read/personal experience, for an Ampere block on FTW3 or STRIX, it's Optimus > EK > everyone else. I've seen some have terrible delta's with their EK block but I can't tell if it's user error or machining defects. I have a 14c delta with the card raging at 440-450w pegged for hours and 100w from my CPU in a high ambient with water temp at 40c. Card was cruising at 54c. Normally my water temp doesn't get higher than 33-34c under full load and the card stays around a ~10-12c delta, but it was one of those 'specially hot days and my central A/C was struggling.

With that being said, I'd just cut to the chase now and order an Optimus block. You should be able to have it in-hand within 6 weeks, and actually enjoy your PC and GPU through Christmas


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> As much as people **** on EK here (which made me really skeptical about buying one) my EK STRIX block has done a phenomenal job on my 3080TI STRIX. From what I've seen/read/personal experience, for an Ampere block on FTW3 or STRIX, it's Optimus > EK > everyone else. I've seen some have terrible delta's with their EK block but I can't tell if it's user error or machining defects. I have a 14c delta with the card raging at 440-450w pegged for hours and 100w from my CPU in a high ambient with water temp at 40c. Card was cruising at 54c. Normally my water temp doesn't get higher than 33-34c under full load and the card stays around a ~10-12c delta, but it was one of those 'specially hot days and my central A/C was struggling.
> 
> With that being said, I'd just cut to the chase now and order an Optimus block. You should be able to have it in-hand within 6 weeks, and actually enjoy your PC and GPU through Christmas


The issue with optimus is some want the ceratoke finish now lol


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> I don't expect it to sell well either. I'm one of the few that has held out (stupid me), but I'm setting myself a deadline of Christmas. If it's not out by then, I'll get an Optimus or Bitspower block.


Get an ceratoke optimus in early 2022.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> The issue with optimus is some want the ceratoke finish now lol


Meh. They won't have that **** ready for a while on non-KP blocks. Look how much of a delay it's caused on the KP.. they just keep pushing it back further and further after saying "next week!" every other week.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> Any chance they said when the Heatkiller V CPU block would potentially arrive? Any info on it at all? I'm not on Hardwareluxx; I've never even heard of that site before lol.
> 
> I have noticed that ever since COVID hit they have slowed to a snail pace when it comes to development. The Ampere selection has been really bad, and they still haven't put an ETA for the Ampere FTW3 cards; at this point, just scrap the idea all together and work on getting materials for production on Lovelace and the new Heatkiller V CPU block.


My take on it (complete guess). Late 2022/Early 2023 so RaptorLake or MeteorLake/AM5 Gen 1. They are releasing an LGA1700 adapter so that means it's not coming within next 6-8months.


----------



## paskowitz

acoustic said:


> As much as people **** on EK here (which made me really skeptical about buying one) my EK STRIX block has done a phenomenal job on my 3080TI STRIX. From what I've seen/read/personal experience, for an Ampere block on FTW3 or STRIX, it's Optimus > EK > everyone else. I've seen some have terrible delta's with their EK block but I can't tell if it's user error or machining defects. I have a 14c delta with the card raging at 440-450w pegged for hours and 100w from my CPU in a high ambient with water temp at 40c. Card was cruising at 54c. Normally my water temp doesn't get higher than 33-34c under full load and the card stays around a ~10-12c delta, but it was one of those 'specially hot days and my central A/C was struggling.
> 
> With that being said, I'd just cut to the chase now and order an Optimus block. You should be able to have it in-hand within 6 weeks, and actually enjoy your PC and GPU through Christmas


I've had mixed experiences with EK in the past (1080 Ti Strix terminal leaked after almost a year of use). I installed an FTW3 block on a friend's GPU and it's not well designed. The RGB cable hangs out on the right side of the block between the PCB and the acrylic. The acrylic itself is eh quality. And the little end piece makes an already long card, even longer. Bitspower, while not my favorite aesthetic and often a bit worse in terms of performance compared to EK, I find to be higher quality. EK isn't bad as they seem on forums/discord/reddit/etc... they are acceptable... which is fine.

Really, I should have gotten the Bykski block the day it was available and then just waited for the Heatkiller block. That would have been the least expensive way to double dip. A bit late now though. 

Hopefully, Watercool can sort out their production roadblocks next gen. I would target reference (FE if it is the same), and then whatever flagship PCB for Asus or EVGA they can get the specs for earliest. I would skip cards like the XC3. Asus has better EU/WW availability and EVGA is better in the US. Start with the AIB PCB that can be produced the earliest, and then do the 2nd one when the bandwidth is available.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> I've had mixed experiences with EK in the past (1080 Ti Strix terminal leaked after almost a year of use). I installed an FTW3 block on a friend's GPU and it's not well designed. The RGB cable hangs out on the right side of the block between the PCB and the acrylic. The acrylic itself is eh quality. And the little end piece makes an already long card, even longer. Bitspower, while not my favorite aesthetic and often a bit worse in terms of performance compared to EK, I find to be higher quality. EK isn't bad as they seem on forums/discord/reddit/etc... they are acceptable... which is fine.
> 
> Really, I should have gotten the Bykski block the day it was available and then just waited for the Heatkiller block. That would have been the least expensive way to double dip. A bit late now though.
> 
> Hopefully, Watercool can sort out their production roadblocks next gen. I would target reference (FE if it is the same), and then whatever flagship PCB for Asus or EVGA they can get the specs for earliest. I would skip cards like the XC3. Asus has better EU/WW availability and EVGA is better in the US. Start with the AIB PCB that can be produced the earliest, and then do the 2nd one when the bandwidth is available.


Next Gen its likely an three way battle (getting card will be tough) so Nvida/AMD/Intel. However i agree that the Reference would be best as long as founders go back to that route. This time i hope they go the Iphone route and just allow backorders, that will kill the need to lineup for cards. Sure there will be delays.


----------



## Mxj1

0451 said:


> The sponsored builds I see here are lame and I want nothing to do with that scene.
> 
> 
> That's a nice setup with much cleaner fan-wire management than mine. Can you send me a product link to that fan mount? Also, where did you get this?
> 
> View attachment 2527812
> 
> 
> You have to shim the reservoir mount with 1-2 thin nylon washers from Ace Hardware. Long story, but I left my Heatkiller Konfigurator reservoir on the shelf at Ace and it got stolen and I had to order a new one.
> 
> View attachment 2527811


Which mount are you talking about? I designed and printed the hubby mount.

I designed and printed that clip that's holding the RGB wires.


----------



## Mxj1

0451 said:


> View attachment 2527851
> 
> 
> I just noticed you have the slim silicone RGB ring. I wondered what those were in the box for. I just installed mine after seeing this.
> 
> 
> I'm not getting a 2nd one any time soon, just curious. I am not sure what my true flow rate is since my D5 NEXT are not calibrated yet. It is telling me 58g/h and that's with 4 total D5s running at 100%: 2 EK pumps in the case and 2 D5 NEXT on the sidecar.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seeing 16165 in PR with my HC block which is near the best non-LN2 result on the Hall of Fame of 16396. Hopefully people who receive the Optimus KP block are well into the 16K range in PR so they get their money's worth.



Also note, D5 next flow sensor is spotty at best, and power AC is not intended to function in a loop with more than one pump.

You could probably run one pump and get an idea, then add 25% to account for the second.

Or just get a stand alone flow meter...


----------



## Mxj1

0451 said:


> You have to shim the reservoir mount with 1-2 thin nylon washers from Ace Hardware. Long story, but I left my Heatkiller Konfigurator reservoir on the shelf at Ace and it got stolen and I had to order a new one.
> 
> View attachment 2527811


You don't need to use the isolators with this setup. The res can be rigid mounted to the adapter plate.


----------



## Shawnb99

Mxj1 said:


> Also note, D5 next flow sensor is spotty at best, and power AC is not intended to function in a loop with more than one pump.
> 
> You could probably run one pump and get an idea, then add 25% to account for the second.
> 
> Or just get a stand alone flow meter...


D5 Next’s flow meter is virtual and not very accurate, plus it can’t measure more then 1 pump so it’s more of a gimmick then useful


----------



## Section31

Mxj1 said:


> Also note, D5 next flow sensor is spotty at best, and power AC is not intended to function in a loop with more than one pump.
> 
> You could probably run one pump and get an idea, then add 25% to account for the second.
> 
> Or just get a stand alone flow meter...


You give some interesting ideas for next mo-ra3 (let say mo-ra4).


----------



## InfoSeeker

I Don't understand why buy a D5 NEXT @ €119.90, when a D5 PWM @ €74.90 plus a quadro @ €45.90 has more operational features. For €15.00 more you can get a D5 PWM and an OCTO.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

InfoSeeker said:


> I Don't understand why buy a D5 NEXT @ €119.90, when a D5 PWM @ €74.90 plus a quadro @ €45.90 has more operational features. For €15.00 more you can get a D5 PWM and an OCTO.


I went with the D5 NEXT so I could have fan and pump control on the MO-RA. This gives the build a cleaner overall look.


----------



## InfoSeeker

0451 said:


> I went with the D5 NEXT so I could have fan and pump control on the MO-RA. This gives the build a cleaner overall look.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2527982


That makes sense.
I added a J-box.


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> I Don't understand why buy a D5 NEXT @ €119.90, when a D5 PWM @ €74.90 plus a quadro @ €45.90 has more operational features. For €15.00 more you can get a D5 PWM and an OCTO.



The single d5 next would be enough, but you know, mo-ra... right?

Octo is unnecessary for the mo-ra, imo. some crafty wiring can sort that out. My d5 next controls fan speeds and leds in the reservoir. I do have a quadro in the case. It controls the 4x 140mm rad fans and the ddc.


----------



## acoustic

What case is that?


----------



## chibi

acoustic said:


> What case is that?


That would be the Winter One case  









Home | Winter Design







www.winterdesign.co


----------



## geriatricpollywog

I figured out my flow rate by putting a hose inlet in a bucket of water and a hose outlet in an empty gallon jug. With all 4 pumps at 100%, the jug filled in about 40 seconds. At 80%, it took a little over 50 seconds. I’ll be running the pumps at 75% from now on.


----------



## chibi

0451 said:


> I figured out my flow rate by putting a hose inlet in a bucket of water and a hose outlet in an empty gallon jug. With all 4 pumps at 100%, the jug filled in about 40 seconds. At 80%, it took a little over 50 seconds. I’ll be running the pumps at 75% from now on.


Rough calculation of GPM

1) Weigh your bucket
2) Set timer to 1 minute and run your pumps
3) Weigh your bucket with fluid, then subtract weight of your empty bucket in step one
4) Take total net weight of water in bucket and divide by 8.32 (1 gallon of water weighs 8.32 lbs) to get GPM

Example:
1) bucket weighs 2 lbs
2) pump water into bucket for one minute
3) total weight is 15 lbs, subtract empty bucket weight = 13 lbs
4) 13 lbs / 8.32 = 1.56 GPM


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> I figured out my flow rate by putting a hose inlet in a bucket of water and a hose outlet in an empty gallon jug. With all 4 pumps at 100%, the jug filled in about 40 seconds. At 80%, it took a little over 50 seconds. I’ll be running the pumps at 75% from now on.


Have you considered starting an site like techpowerup vsg. Consider he started thermalbench then eventually got hired by techpowerup. It’s only him, igorslab and another german site at this point.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

chibi said:


> Rough calculation of GPM
> 
> 1) Weigh your bucket
> 2) Set timer to 1 minute and run your pumps
> 3) Weigh your bucket with fluid, then subtract weight of your empty bucket in step one
> 4) Take total net weight of water in bucket and divide by 8.32 (1 gallon of water weighs 8.32 lbs) to get GPM
> 
> Example:
> 1) bucket weighs 2 lbs
> 2) pump water into bucket for one minute
> 3) total weight is 15 lbs, subtract empty bucket weight = 13 lbs
> 4) 13 lbs / 8.32 = 1.56 GPM


Shouldn’t an empty 1 gallon water jug hold 1 gallon? I don’t need to weigh it because I don’t need an exact flow rate.

@Section31 If I can get Watercool to send me a prototype MO-RA4, I’ll start a new Thermalbench. I sent then an email asking if one was coming out soon and they said no.


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Shouldn’t an empty 1 gallon water jug hold 1 gallon? I don’t need to weigh it because I don’t need an exact flow rate.
> 
> @Section31 If I can get Watercool to send me a prototype MO-RA4, I’ll start a new Thermalbench. I sent then an email asking if one was coming out soon and they said no.


Thank you for asking. I assumed it was going to be awhile before they released one.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> Thank you for asking. I assumed it was going to be awhile before they released one.


Since he did not share any secrets, I’ll just copy and paste:

_So for now there will be no MORA4. But we have already collected many ideas for a new one. Let's see what comes  I can not give away too much ^^_


----------



## Section31

0451 said:


> Since he did not share any secrets, I’ll just copy and paste:
> 
> _So for now there will be no MORA4. But we have already collected many ideas for a new one. Let's see what comes  I can not give away too much ^^_


Basically its in early stage of R&D (like CPU IV Block, its fan controller) still.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Basically its in early stage of R&D (like CPU IV Block, its fan controller) still.


At the rate Watercool has been going, that means 2+ years LOL


----------



## dangershi

@Watercool-Daniel 

Hello all, need your feedback

is HKV supposed to be this bad as my photos?

Got one from HEATKILLER® V FOR RTX 3080/3090 - ACRYL

Was it my mistake buying from PPCS? There is no indication on their it is bad stock...


----------



## paskowitz

dangershi said:


> @Watercool-Daniel
> 
> Hello all, need your feedback
> 
> is HKV supposed to be this bad as my photos?
> 
> Got one from HEATKILLER® V FOR RTX 3080/3090 - ACRYL
> 
> Was it my mistake buying from PPCS? There is no indication on their it is bad stock...


I haven't seen a single Watercool block with staining or abrasion out if the box. Looks like PPCs is selling a returned item (looks like skin oils and a bit of thermal compound on there) as new. I would not accept that and ask for a return. Maybe go with ModMyMods instead, if they have the same block in stock.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Section31 said:


> Basically its in early stage of R&D (like CPU IV Block, its fan controller) still.


I watched that fan controller way back in 2018/2019 i think i t was, is it still in development?!


----------



## EniGma1987

@Watercool-Daniel Any updates on the testing you guys were supposed to do on the active backplates yet?


----------



## deme

Watercool-Daniel said:


> The problem with FTW3 is simply that we announced a date way too early back then, raising expectations that we unfortunately had to disappoint over and over again. So I can fully understand your frustration about that. The whole pandemic has not made it any easier for us.
> All I can say at the moment is that we are working very hard on the finalization of the cooler. I'll try to get an update from the production team in the form of a render or photos.


@Watercool-Daniel any update please? It's been 1 month since your msg and no update or info yet.


----------



## Liquid4rt

EniGma1987 said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Any updates on the testing you guys were supposed to do on the active backplates yet?


Same been waiting as well, i got a feeling its not coming. By the time they release it 4000 series will be announced and they'll be working on that instead. 

If its coming its gotta drop before Christmas to get any attention as alot of people have already jumped on the EK block with the active backplate... im holding out for Watercool!


----------



## Section31

Liquid4rt said:


> Same been waiting as well, i got a feeling its not coming. By the time they release it 4000 series will be announced and they'll be working on that instead.
> 
> If its coming its gotta drop before Christmas to get any attention as alot of people have already jumped on the EK block with the active backplate... im holding out for Watercool!


Next gen is late 2022/early 2023 at earliest. So i think there will be plenty of time.


----------



## Chiraq

Any HK water blocks in the works for the XFX V2 pcb cards? Aka the newest cards. Seems like we bought the cat in the back all of us that buy XFX 6000 series cards these days. XFX is releasing a partnership card with EK but I have asked both XFX and EK. They do no sell the water block separately. 

I'm just about done with those two companies tbh.


----------



## deme

Since, as it seems, no one from Watercool is active in this thread, I saw this update from hardwarelux forum:



> After the thing with the FTW3 cooler is escalating again, I want to make a statement. We have already communicated several times that we cannot keep the deadlines due to the currently still very difficult market situation. Believe us, we're interested in finally getting the cow off the ice ourselves. The release of the FTW3 cooler was set to Q4 2021 and this time it will be adhered to! It will again be a very attractive cooler in the HK V design with optically very appealing improvements. As always, actually


----------



## paskowitz

Well, that's good news. I am very much looking forward to a conclusion to this saga. I may have missed it but was there any announcement on Intel 1700 socket? It looks like there will be a need for a new mounting kit due to the different Z height and hole spacing.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Well, that's good news. I am very much looking forward to a conclusion to this saga. I may have missed it but was there any announcement on Intel 1700 socket? It looks like there will be a need for a new mounting kit due to the different Z height and hole spacing.


Asus boards have lga1200 adapter fyi


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> Asus boards have lga1200 adapter fyi


That must be where the extra costs come from...


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Would also like to know ETA on lga 1700 mounting kits/backplates for heatkiller iv pro waterblocks


----------



## paskowitz

outofmyheadyo said:


> Would also like to know ETA on lga 1700 mounting kits/backplates for heatkiller iv pro waterblocks


TLDR: Existing blocks will work for now, but with reduced performance. An upgrade/adapter kit will be offered to offer the right mounting pressure. The previous Intel backplate will not work, so there will be a new one for LGA 1700. Everything should be available next Thursday.









Intel Alder Lake Mounting-Kit for HEATKILLER IV CPU-Cooler - Watercool


The matching WATERCOOL HEATKILLER IV conversion kits for the latest Intel Alder Lake generation, are available in our store from Thursday.




watercool.de







> INTEL’s 12th processor generation will be available in stores next week. The 12th generation, called Alder Lake, features an increased number of cores and a brute performance as well as a maximum MTP (Maximum Turbo Power) of up to 241 watts. In addition with LGA1700, a new socket also makes its debut.
> 
> Due to the newly developed, larger socket, slight adjustments to our HEATKILLER IV mounting kit were necessary. We used all technical data available in order to produce the new mounting kit for the Alder Lake processors. Especially in the area of contact pressure, a lot has changed. For this, we again relied on our proven Easy Mount system in order to comply with the manufacturer’s specifications. A quick check in our lab showed that our existing mounting kit also makes a flawless mounting possible for the time being. However, this does not achieve the maximum contact pressure and sacrifices some performance.
> 
> Just in time for the INTEL release, you can buy a conversion kit for the LGA1700 socket in our store starting Thursday and adapt your HEATKILLER IV processor cooler to the new platform. In addition to the conversion kit, you can also order a suitable backplate later on. Furthermore, the Intel Alder Lake versions are newly created in our store, so that there will be no confusion.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thats`s great!


----------



## TeslaHUN

Anybody knows ; the Watercool dual d5 industrial top  is compatible with the Alphacool vpp755 pumps ? It says officially only vpp655 . Thx


----------



## xPvn

100% this.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Sorry I was on vacation. Let me answer your questions:

@dangershi I saw that your question has been answered by Markus already. All I can say here is that we dont ship blocks that look like that.

@EniGma1987 No news on the backplate, sorry  Finishing the FTW3 has the highes prio atm.

@deme The FTW3 cooler is currently in the finalization process. It will be available for order in our store by the end of 2021.



Besides this you can now order the LGA1700 Upgrade Kit and an adapted backplate for the new Intel socket:





Watercool Heatkiller IV Upgrade Kit für Intel Alder Lake, 4,95 €


Intel LGA 1700 Upgrade Kit für HEATKILLER IV Intel CPU Kühler




shop.watercool.de









HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €


Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.




shop.watercool.de














We have also created a small survey about the optimal positioning of the outlet port of our HEATKILLER IV cooler. We would be grateful if you could participate, it will only take a minute.





ERROR!







surveys.watercool.de


----------



## paskowitz

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Sorry I was on vacation. Let me answer your questions:
> 
> @dangershi I saw that your question has been answered by Markus already. All I can say here is that we dont ship blocks that look like that.
> 
> @EniGma1987 No news on the backplate, sorry  Finishing the FTW3 has the highes prio atm.
> 
> @deme The FTW3 cooler is currently in the finalization process. It will be available for order in our store by the end of 2021.
> 
> 
> 
> Besides this you can now order the LGA1700 Upgrade Kit and an adapted backplate for the new Intel socket:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller IV Upgrade Kit für Intel Alder Lake, 4,95 €
> 
> 
> Intel LGA 1700 Upgrade Kit für HEATKILLER IV Intel CPU Kühler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €
> 
> 
> Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have also created a small survey about the optimal positioning of the outlet port of our HEATKILLER IV cooler. We would be grateful if you could participate, it will only take a minute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ERROR!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> surveys.watercool.de


Hope you had a good vacation. For the survey I would not, I'm okay with vertical orientation inlet port at the top. The only thing that makes this not number one is that sometimes the bottom port interferes with a high-mounted / tall PCB GPU block and in the past it has performed slightly worse for mainstream Intel sockets (IIRC). 

FTW3 block > active back plate is definitely the right call. I think it's safe to assume the stock Heatkiller back plate will be more than adequate for the time being.


----------



## acoustic

Watercool-Daniel said:


> Sorry I was on vacation. Let me answer your questions:
> 
> @dangershi I saw that your question has been answered by Markus already. All I can say here is that we dont ship blocks that look like that.
> 
> @EniGma1987 No news on the backplate, sorry  Finishing the FTW3 has the highes prio atm.
> 
> @deme The FTW3 cooler is currently in the finalization process. It will be available for order in our store by the end of 2021.
> 
> 
> 
> Besides this you can now order the LGA1700 Upgrade Kit and an adapted backplate for the new Intel socket:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller IV Upgrade Kit für Intel Alder Lake, 4,95 €
> 
> 
> Intel LGA 1700 Upgrade Kit für HEATKILLER IV Intel CPU Kühler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €
> 
> 
> Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have also created a small survey about the optimal positioning of the outlet port of our HEATKILLER IV cooler. We would be grateful if you could participate, it will only take a minute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ERROR!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> surveys.watercool.de


Good to see you back!!!


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Daniel  Thanks for getting this to us quickly!

On a side note (rant)... the Asus ROG mobos for this gen are really disappointing. I got a Hero in and the quality is terrible for the price ($600 USD) compared to something like the Gigabyte Master which is $480. The higher end boards are even more insanely priced. Asus has always been a slight premium... but this gen is egregious.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> 1700 socket mounting kit and backplate are now available in the Watercool.de shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €
> 
> 
> Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller IV Upgrade Kit für Intel Alder Lake, 4,95 €
> 
> 
> Intel LGA 1700 Upgrade Kit für HEATKILLER IV Intel CPU Kühler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Watercool-Daniel  Thanks for getting this to us quickly!
> 
> On a side note (rant)... the Asus ROG mobos for this gen are really disappointing. I got a Hero in and the quality is terrible for the price ($600 USD) compared to something like the Gigabyte Master which is $480. The higher end boards are even more insanely priced. Asus has always been a slight premium... but this gen is egregious.


I found the hero to be quite nice (similar to my x570 hero dark). Apex is better but it also costs more.

Gigabyte i agree is better overall quality but the issue with me is i hate gigabyte bios/uefi. I have used it on z390/z490 and x570. I even had one of there boards brick on me because of just doing bios updates.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

paskowitz said:


> 1700 socket mounting kit and backplate are now available in the Watercool.de shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €
> 
> 
> Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool Heatkiller IV Upgrade Kit für Intel Alder Lake, 4,95 €
> 
> 
> Intel LGA 1700 Upgrade Kit für HEATKILLER IV Intel CPU Kühler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Watercool-Daniel  Thanks for getting this to us quickly!
> 
> On a side note (rant)... the Asus ROG mobos for this gen are really disappointing. I got a Hero in and the quality is terrible for the price ($600 USD) compared to something like the Gigabyte Master which is $480. The higher end boards are even more insanely priced. Asus has always been a slight premium... but this gen is egregious.


If you got the AM4 waterblock you also need an intel conversion kit for it am I right? 





Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® IV for INTEL processors, 19,95 €


Hochwertiges Umrüstkit für unsere Heatkiller IV Prozessorkühler. Passend für alle aktuellen Intel Prozessoren.




shop.watercool.de


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

outofmyheadyo said:


> If you got the AM4 waterblock you also need an intel conversion kit for it am I right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® IV for INTEL processors, 19,95 €
> 
> 
> Hochwertiges Umrüstkit für unsere Heatkiller IV Prozessorkühler. Passend für alle aktuellen Intel Prozessoren.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de


Yes, you need the Intel conversion kit for the mounting brackets and then the LGA1700 upgrade kit to adapt the pressure. (In case we are talking about the LGA1700 socket here)


----------



## 39life

any ETA on 420 mo-ra3?


----------



## Kendragon

Can we still use the current hardware, screws and springs while we wait on the 1700 backplate and springs? I ordered the kits, but will have my board and cpu November 15th


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

39life said:


> any ETA on 420 mo-ra3?


We await a restock for mid of december.



Kendragon said:


> Can we still use the current hardware, screws and springs while we wait on the 1700 backplate and springs? I ordered the kits, but will have my board and cpu November 15th


Yes, the Heatkiller block will also work with the "old" mounting kit. But the temps will be better with the new one.


----------



## CyberBongi

Hey I would like to know if Watercool have any plans for maybe HK fittings? Seeing the late designs (My 1080Ti HK and 5700 XT HK blocks look spectacular, new lineup is as impressive if not more impressive, also the new RAD series is an Eyegasm), I can only imagine how impressive HK fittings would look!


----------



## paskowitz

CyberBongi said:


> Hey I would like to know if Watercool have any plans for maybe HK fittings? Seeing the late designs (My 1080Ti HK and 5700 XT HK blocks look spectacular, new lineup is as impressive if not more impressive, also the new RAD series is an Eyegasm), I can only imagine how impressive HK fittings would look!


I think they have enough on their plate already (capacity)... and I'm pretty sure the tooling for a variety of fittings isn't trivial. There is a reason they sell Barrow fittings on their site.


----------



## CyberBongi

paskowitz said:


> I think they have enough on their plate already (capacity)... and I'm pretty sure the tooling for a variety of fittings isn't trivial. There is a reason they sell Barrow fittings on their site.


Well I didn't necessarily mean fittings that are made in Germany. There are great manufacturers like Barrow that might be able to manufacture for them. I don't mean a private label either, rather a whole new slick design, just like Barrow likes to test new designs of their own. Only Monsoon and maybe Phanteks stand out with their fittings, while most look kinda similar except EK maybe.
I mean, if WC has QC over the manufacturing process and if the manufacturer is very good, is it still an issue? IMO by far Phanteks have the best looking fittings, but holy smokes 17$ per 1 rotation connector, and well AFAIK Barrow is Bitspower without the logo.


----------



## anr11

CyberBongi said:


> and well AFAIK Barrow is Bitspower without the logo.


This is false. There used to be a statement from Bitspower on their website stating that they have never had any relationship with Bykski or Barrow. It was on their front page for several years but it seems they have now removed the statement. Anyway, in my experience with Barrow fittings, the finish quality is hit and miss, whereas Bitspower has always been consistent for all of the fittings I have purchased.


----------



## CyberBongi

anr11 said:


> This is false. There used to be a statement from Bitspower on their website stating that they have never had any relationship with Bykski or Barrow. It was on their front page for several years but it seems they have now removed the statement. Anyway, in my experience with Barrow fittings, the finish quality is hit and miss, whereas Bitspower has always been consistent for all of the fittings I have purchased.


I mean, anyone could say anything, good luck traveling to the factory and checking it out lol. Don't forget that Taiwan is very close to China. Anyways, Bitspower could pay more for a thicker layer of paint/higher quality of paint (I don't say it to talk down on BP, I actually like their products a lot). But I don't wanna talk about Bitspower here too much because it's not the point of this thread.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

If you go industrial, there are options for all stainless rotary fittings and tubing. I paid $38.70 each for Swagelok 1/2” OD rotaries but they gave me pre-bent 316L tubing for free.


----------



## Section31

CyberBongi said:


> Hey I would like to know if Watercool have any plans for maybe HK fittings? Seeing the late designs (My 1080Ti HK and 5700 XT HK blocks look spectacular, new lineup is as impressive if not more impressive, also the new RAD series is an Eyegasm), I can only imagine how impressive HK fittings would look!


It would be nice but the market is in odd situation. Not 100% sure worth it. Too many competitors in the bottom and top area and the barrows/bykski/formulamod fittings are pretty much good enough now. The new redesign of them are quite nice (they copied ekwb torque design) and there sister brands (barrowsch/granzon) have produced some interesting design fittings. I do find the Granzon products on the higher end price side.

Also, the top end market is quite expensive. The most expensive fittings are Phantek/Optimus and while from all users/reports they are top fittings but they really are expensive per fitting.


----------



## broodro0ster

CyberBongi said:


> and well AFAIK Barrow is Bitspower without the logo.


I've worked with both Barrow and Bitspower fittings and I can tell they are not the same. But the quality is great of both brands as far as fittings go. I haven't tried their other products.


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> I've worked with both Barrow and Bitspower fittings and I can tell they are not the same. But the quality is great of both brands as far as fittings go. I haven't tried their other products.


The Barrowsch and Granzon (Bykski premiere brand) make some interesting design fittings. They also make some interesting looking rads and aio solutions. I haven’t tried them though


----------



## Jashin

@Watercool-Daniel 

Hi Daniel. You've written some time ago about FTW3 block being released at the end of Q4 2021 and that you intend to uphold that date. Are there any news regarding release date as of now -we're already in December.

Or just to put it straight are there any hopes of FTW3 block being released before the middle of December (let's say 15th) so we can actually get it before Christmas (before all package carriers will get overwhelmed) or are we speaking about EOM or a new year.


----------



## paskowitz

I'm losing confidence as well.


----------



## Jashin

paskowitz said:


> I'm losing confidence as well.


Tbh if Optimus block shipment wouldn't cost a one fourth of it's price since there are no Europe based resellers I would have probably already went with it right now - right now my only option is EK - I was hoping for a full cover but given how long those few more weeks have been taking I am beginning to be willing anything that market can offer - the very sheer amount of few more weeks declarations just undermined my trust in any communication from company - I was reading yesterday a Hardwareluxx forums hoping for any additional information but it's the same there. No info besides Q4 from over a month ago.

You're lucky to be US based in that regard.


----------



## Section31

Jashin said:


> Tbh if Optimus block shipment wouldn't cost a one fourth of it's price since there are no Europe based resellers I would have probably already went with it right now - right now my only option is EK - I was hoping for a full cover but given how long those few more weeks have been taking I am beginning to be willing anything that market can offer - the very sheer amount of few more weeks declarations just undermined my trust in any communication from company - I was reading yesterday a Hardwareluxx forums hoping for any additional information but it's the same there. No info besides Q4 from over a month ago.
> 
> You're lucky to be US based in that regard.


Optimus is another hell actually. Not necessarily better, look at all the kingpin block people. People probably waited longer than watercool ftw3. Also have limited communication with customer.


----------



## Jashin

Do you mean here quality issues with Kingpin Blocks or do they have a hellish delivery times as well?


----------



## Section31

Jashin said:


> Do you mean here quality issues with Kingpin Blocks or do they have a hellish delivery times as well?


Very hellish delivery time.


----------



## acoustic

Any idea when we could see US Retailers with the LGA1700 conversion kits? I really don't want to pay crazy shipping costs just to ship 15euro worth of items lol .. wish I needed something to get the free shipping hit, but really don't need anything else.


----------



## InfoSeeker

acoustic said:


> Any idea when we could see US Retailers with the LGA1700 conversion kits? I really don't want to pay crazy shipping costs just to ship 15euro worth of items lol .. wish I needed something to get the free shipping hit, but really don't need anything else.


If your interest is the Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® IV for INTEL processors, there is an option to ship by International Letter for 7.95€... or you could purchase from ModMyMods (in stock at 2021.12.04 07:45 eastern time).

Edit: If you also want the recommended HEATKILLER IV Upgrade Kit for Intel LGA 1700, you should probably go to Watercool. It appears you can order both items and still use the International Letter shipping option for 7.95€.


----------



## acoustic

InfoSeeker said:


> If your interest is the Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® IV for INTEL processors, there is an option to ship by International Letter for 7.95€... or you could purchase from ModMyMods (in stock at 2021.12.04 07:45 eastern time).
> 
> Edit: If you also want the recommended HEATKILLER IV Upgrade Kit for Intel LGA 1700, you should probably go to Watercool. It appears you can order both items and still use the International Letter shipping option for 7.95€.


Looking for the upgrade kit as well as the LGA1700 Backplate. I'll see if the shipping is still letter! I didn't know they even had a letter shipping option, so that would help GREATLY. Thanks!


----------



## storm-chaser

I have an all copper heatkiller IV for LGA 1151, but after cleaning last month I stripped one of the bolts out that hold the two halves together. It seemed to strip so easily, has anyone else had this problem? I was putting about 3lb on it at most. Luckly once you tighten everything up the CPU "sandwiches" both halves so I havent had a leak or anything like that.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

Jashin said:


> @Watercool-Daniel
> 
> Hi Daniel. You've written some time ago about FTW3 block being released at the end of Q4 2021 and that you intend to uphold that date. Are there any news regarding release date as of now -we're already in December.
> 
> Or just to put it straight are there any hopes of FTW3 block being released before the middle of December (let's say 15th) so we can actually get it before Christmas (before all package carriers will get overwhelmed) or are we speaking about EOM or a new year.


The FTW3 block is still on track for a release this year  So just hit that F5 button hard on our shop 
...
..
.
Just kidding, I will inform you when it can be ordered


----------



## InfoSeeker

.


----------



## J7SC

Watercool-Daniel said:


> (...)


Hello Daniel - Please check the OCN PM re. a Watercool customer service issue. Thanks.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

After it was pretty quiet around the FTW3 topic the last weeks, we now have some good news for you! We have finalized the base plate of the FTW3 cooler and it is already in production. The final design of the top cover is also currently being printed. This means that you will be able to pre-order the long-awaited EVGA FTW3 cooler in the next 1-2 weeks. There will be a separate announcement about this.

The delivery will start later in January. This is simply because many of the companies we work with are closed around Christmas.


----------



## paskowitz

Light at the end of the tunnel! Regardless of the wait, we do appreciate the work that went into getting this product to market.









If you can answer, I have a couple of questions:

What accessories will be available at launch? (passive backplate, single slot I/O bracket, alternative terminal, active backplate, etc)
Color/finishes? (Black/Nickel, Nickel, Black/Copper, Nickel/Copper)
Is the vertical height of the block the usual PCB height + terminal (22mm)?


----------



## acoustic

Watercool-Daniel said:


> After it was pretty quiet around the FTW3 topic the last weeks, we now have some good news for you! We have finalized the base plate of the FTW3 cooler and it is already in production. The final design of the top cover is also currently being printed. This means that you will be able to pre-order the long-awaited EVGA FTW3 cooler in the next 1-2 weeks. There will be a separate announcement about this.
> 
> The delivery will start later in January. This is simply because many of the companies we work with are closed around Christmas.
> 
> View attachment 2536443
> View attachment 2536444
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536442


So happy to see you guys finally get this thing pushed out. Wish you'd make a STRIX block too, but I understand 

Crushing it guys!


----------



## MageTank

Watercool-Daniel said:


> After it was pretty quiet around the FTW3 topic the last weeks, we now have some good news for you! We have finalized the base plate of the FTW3 cooler and it is already in production. The final design of the top cover is also currently being printed. This means that you will be able to pre-order the long-awaited EVGA FTW3 cooler in the next 1-2 weeks. There will be a separate announcement about this.
> 
> The delivery will start later in January. This is simply because many of the companies we work with are closed around Christmas.
> 
> View attachment 2536443
> View attachment 2536444
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536442


Any word on whether there will be any copper-acetal versions of this block? My build is pretty specific on the aesthetics and I would like to find a Heatkiller V block for the RTX 3000 series that doesn't require a reference PCB since PNY cards are extremely hard to find here in the US.

My build for reference:









I reached out via the contact form to see if they would be able to make a one-off EVGA XC3 block but no luck. I definitely refuse to use other blocks as I am too used to this quality at this point, lol.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Has anyone hung there MO-RA radiators outside the building over winter for max cooling/low temps? If so how did it fair when it rained or when below zero? Any corrosion on the radiator itself?


----------



## Jashin

Watercool-Daniel said:


> After it was pretty quiet around the FTW3 topic the last weeks, we now have some good news for you! We have finalized the base plate of the FTW3 cooler and it is already in production. The final design of the top cover is also currently being printed. This means that you will be able to pre-order the long-awaited EVGA FTW3 cooler in the* next 1-2 weeks*. There will be a separate announcement about this.
> 
> The delivery will start later in January. This is simply because many of the companies we work with are closed around Christmas.
> 
> View attachment 2536443
> View attachment 2536444
> 
> 
> View attachment 2536442


So 2 weeks are up and there is no information nor any announcement whatsoever - do you plan to release it on the Christmas Eve or during the Christmas as a present cuz you seriously have no idea how bad of an idea it is. Christmas are for people to rest / connect with their families to sit and refresh your site with F5 / check forums in order to buy something before bloody scalpers will buy our the small stock you're going to have for the launch.


----------



## deme

FTW3 cooler is listed in the store!


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Liquid4rt said:


> Has anyone hung there MO-RA radiators outside the building over winter for max cooling/low temps? If so how did it fair when it rained or when below zero? Any corrosion on the radiator itself?


I put mine outside when it was -3C. No issues with the pumps running, which was my only concern. As long as you know the freezing point of your coolant mixture you should be okay. A total freeze-over could be bad. Mine is stainless steel so I’m not worried about condensation rust, but the fans and pumps are not waterproof.


----------



## Jashin

deme said:


> FTW3 cooler is listed in the store!


Thank you for the information. I think we can forget about my previous post. I just wonder whenever was that Watercool original plan or did somebody from their stuff read my whining and realized that releasing it during the Christmas Break is not such a great idea after all  Doubt it but maybe after all - neither Daniel nor Marcus messaged us, not is there any new post on their Facebook


----------



## deme

@Jashin They have uploaded a msg in hardwareluxx.de a few minutes ago. Actually I was randomly checking their store when I saw that, before their post. Probably I grabbed one of the first ones.


----------



## Jashin

deme said:


> @Jashin They have uploaded a msg in hardwareluxx.de a few minutes ago. Actually I was randomly checking their store when I saw that, before their post. Probably I grabbed one of the first ones.


Out of curiosity what was the delivery time in days for the first ones (in days)?


----------



## deme

Jashin said:


> Out of curiosity what was the delivery time in days for the first ones (in days)?


I believe the same. There is no difference at all.


----------



## djwarreng

Finally, some renderings of the FTW3 block


----------



## dwolvin

Interesting, wonder how it will look (LED's?).


----------



## paskowitz

Looks good. Pretty similar to the 2080 Ti Strix block visually. Will be interesting to see the performance compares to the competition. Price is actually a bit lower than I expected and very reasonable.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Received my Watercool order today:









which included a 5 day 'operational delay [takes time to destroy a box to this extent]:









One can only hope Watercool stops using FedEx. I have had more issues with FedEx than any other shipper, including the USPS, which is saying a lot.

Luckily the contents were well packed and are all OK.


----------



## Barefooter

Looking at that box it's amazing it is all ok!


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Any US sources for the new FTW3 block? Or hang tight and wait a bit?


----------



## acoustic

Voodoo Rufus said:


> Any US sources for the new FTW3 block? Or hang tight and wait a bit?


I would order direct from Germany and eat the shipping. Their new products have taken a significant amount of time to get to US Retailers.


----------



## ciarlatano

Perhaps I missed it along the way, but has there been an announcement of an LGA 1700 specific block coming? Just trying to get my thoughts in order for a platform upgrade.


----------



## paskowitz

I lost track if we got an definitive answer to that. My guess is it won't be in the immediate future. Probably later this year???


----------



## jvillaveces

ciarlatano said:


> Perhaps I missed it along the way, but has there been an announcement of an LGA 1700 specific block coming? Just trying to get my thoughts in order for a platform upgrade.


Not until it's an obsolete socket...


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Daniel  Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.


----------



## yzonker

For the Heatkiller V owners, what block delta are you seeing? If you respond please include the actual power draw to qualify it if you can and your pump speed, # of pumps. 

Right now I have a Corsair block on a Zotac 3090 Trinity. Block delta is [email protected] [email protected] This is with 2 D5s at 100%. 3 rads, 2 blocks. Unfortunately no flow meter. 

Just wondering if I would see a significant improvement with the Heatkiller block. 

I did a little searching in this thread and found a couple of hits, but not too much. Probably more buried in here somewhere, so apologies if this has been covered.


----------



## paskowitz

yzonker said:


> For the Heatkiller V owners, what block delta are you seeing? If you respond please include the actual power draw to qualify it if you can and your pump speed, # of pumps.
> 
> Right now I have a Corsair block on a Zotac 3090 Trinity. Block delta is [email protected] [email protected] This is with 2 D5s at 100%. 3 rads, 2 blocks. Unfortunately no flow meter.
> 
> Just wondering if I would see a significant improvement with the Heatkiller block.
> 
> I did a little searching in this thread and found a couple of hits, but not too much. Probably more buried in here somewhere, so apologies if this has been covered.


I set up a buddy's custom loop. 3080/XC3 block. I don't remember what the exact power draw was, but I'd say 330-350w. 1 D5 at 100%. IDK about flow but it wouldn't have been high since he had 3x HWL GTS rads and an HK IV Pro block. Delta was about 7c (Port Royal demo loop). Maybe with better flow, you could be looking at 8-9c even with the higher power draw.


----------



## yzonker

paskowitz said:


> I set up a buddy's custom loop. 3080/XC3 block. I don't remember what the exact power draw was, but I'd say 330-350w. 1 D5 at 100%. IDK about flow but it wouldn't have been high since he had 3x HWL GTS rads and an HK IV Pro block. Delta was about 7c (Port Royal demo loop). Maybe with better flow, you could be looking at 8-9c even with the higher power draw.


Thanks for the info. Looks like about 9C for my block in that power range. That's about what I was thinking based on the few reports I found.


----------



## yzonker

I went ahead and ordered the Heatkiller V while Titanrig had one. I'll report back with results when I get the card mounted.


----------



## Watercool-Daniel

The development of our active backplate is finished and therefore the serial production will start soon. We decided to go for an uncompromising full-copper variant!
The active backplate will be available only as nickel-plated version to match the FTW3 cooler. However, you will be able to choose between a dark or a silver glossy heatsink. We still have to think about the final price.
Final pics in combination with the ftw3 block will follow.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Watercool-Daniel said:


> The development of our active backplate is finished and therefore the serial production will start soon. We decided to go for an uncompromising full-copper variant!
> The active backplate will be available only as nickel-plated version to match the FTW3 cooler. However, you will be able to choose between a dark or a silver glossy heatsink. We still have to think about the final price.
> Final pics in combination with the ftw3 block will follow.
> View attachment 2542540


Wait so it will only be compatible with the FTW3 block? What about the reference blocks? I have a palit 3090 gamingpro which is a reference design,will this active backplate fit? I've been waiting forever and this is good news!


----------



## EniGma1987

Liquid4rt said:


> Wait so it will only be compatible with the FTW3 block? What about the reference blocks? I have a palit 3090 gamingpro which is a reference design,will this active backplate fit? I've been waiting forever and this is good news!


From what Daniel said, to me it sounds like the active backplate will only come in 2 versions where both have nickel plated copper, and this plating look matches the new FTW3 block. But the difference between the two versions is that the heatsinks (on top? inside the block?) will come in a black style or silver glossy style.


----------



## paskowitz

EniGma1987 said:


> From what Daniel said, to me it sounds like the active backplate will only come in 2 versions where both have nickel plated copper, and this plating look matches the new FTW3 block. But the difference between the two versions is that the heatsinks (on top? inside the block?) will come in a black style or silver glossy style.


I'm a bit confused as well. Hopefully we get pics soon (of the main block as well) to clarify. Info on the other accessories (vertical terminal and single slot I/O bracket) would also be appreciated.


----------



## chibi

Looking at the raw copper, my opinion is that it will come in two pieces. The copper backplate itself, and a water channel that gets screwed ontop of the copper. As for the copper, it will be finished in two colour choices. One is the shiney silver, and the other is the "black nickel" darker version. Regardless, it will be cool to see what will come of it.


----------



## bern43

Will the active backplate be the same thickness as the passive? Can't really tell from the pictures.


----------



## yzonker

Posted this over in the 3090 thread, hopefully nobody minds if I post it here too.

Got my Zotac mounted in the Heatkiller block complete with thermal putty.

Mining mem temps are down about 6C from the Corsair. Running at 62C @120mh right now. 23C ambient. Not sure if the putty is actually better, or it's the block. The Heatkiller block only uses 0.5mm pads for the front VRAM and 1.0mm pads on the backplate.

Still not stellar in this crowd necessarily, but block delta at 500w is 13-14C. My Corsair block when running the same test was 16-17C. (running Kombustor for a steady load) 

All in all I'm happy with it. Probably not really worth swapping, but I was just bored and wanting to try something new and they were actually in stock for once. If I were going to start over and pic one, the Heatkiller would be the obvious choice.

This is what my Corsair block looked like when I pulled the card out. Kryonaut Extreme was still soft and not dried out. (about 6 months) Notice though the half circles in the pads. Those are screw holes directly under the mem chips. I had forgotten it had those. Not ideal.

View attachment 2542990


No need to double washer the Heatkiller as the screws can go all the way to the bottom of the standoff. Not sure why they used plastic on those though. Also don't know why they needed to tag on that copper shim for the single mem chip. Probably my only 2 complaints with the block.

View attachment 2542991


----------



## chibi

yzonker, do you have a pic of the ftw3 block assembled? If so, can you please share it? Thank you!


----------



## acoustic

13-14c delta is equivalent to my EK block. I'd expect better from HK.. I'd try remounting or tightening the block a bit more.


----------



## yzonker

chibi said:


> yzonker, do you have a pic of the ftw3 block assembled? If so, can you please share it? Thank you!


No I didn't, but it's not a FTW3 block anyway. Reference block for my Zotac 3090. Techpowerup has some good pics in their review.









Watercool Heatkiller V RTX 3080/3090 + eBC Backplate Review


Watercool introduces its brand-new GPU block series with the Heatkiller V featuring aesthetic updates, including a bolder design language and optional ARGB lighting, as well as a new cooling engine altogether. We examine the RTX 3080 version and take a look at both its function and form.




www.techpowerup.com


----------



## yzonker

acoustic said:


> 13-14c delta is equivalent to my EK block. I'd expect better from HK.. I'd try remounting or tightening the block a bit more.


I kinda doubt it would improve. I snugged the screws pretty well and had a nice even spread of paste. Even used the putty to maximize contact pressure. Not sure what I would do differently. From the little bit of data I could find, this is about what I expected relative to the Corsair block.


----------



## acoustic

yzonker said:


> I kinda doubt it would improve. I snugged the screws pretty well and had a nice even spread of paste. Even used the putty to maximize contact pressure. Not sure what I would do differently. From the little bit of data I could find, this is about what I expected relative to the Corsair block.


HK is usually in the 9-10c Delta range from their past blocks iirc. 13-14c is ... Not what I would expect from HK.


----------



## yzonker

acoustic said:


> HK is usually in the 9-10c Delta range from their past blocks iirc. 13-14c is ... Not what I would expect from HK.


There are various factors that play in to the numbers people see. Flow rate, flatness of the die, tolerances that affect contact pressure, true power draw. 

Was just checking the hotspot delta. Saw 10-11C depending on what I was running and power level. About 1C better than the Corsair. Doesn't suggest a bad mount either.


----------



## yzonker

Interesting test of both the HKV and Next.









WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


@Dampfkanes Wäre schön wenn du dann nochmal ein Diagramm machst mit konkreten Messwerten, dann hätte man mal nen Vergleich wie gut der WC ist. Ich wünsche dir schonmal einen unfeuchten Umbau.




www.hardwareluxx.de





Kinda looked like the Next got cheated though with the paste spread. So those #'s may be suspect. 

But the HKV didn't get anywhere near [email protected] It was [email protected] and appeared to be flattening out at the highest flow rates. Quite a bit worse than what I'm seeing. I really need a flow meter...


----------



## bern43

Anyone doing the washer mod with their Heatkiller IV and Alder Lake? I've got the replacement springs and backplate for my block and am not sure whether to bother with the 1mm washers.


----------



## bscool

bern43 said:


> Anyone doing the washer mod with their Heatkiller IV and Alder Lake? I've got the replacement springs and backplate for my block and am not sure whether to bother with the 1mm washers.


I would check temps first. If high then try it.

I have raystorm block/custom loop and also a Arctic 420 I have used on 12900kf n tried torx bolt loosening and 1mm washer n saw no differenc. But temps were very good to start with.

I also use liquid metal which helps a few c.


----------



## paskowitz

bern43 said:


> Anyone doing the washer mod with their Heatkiller IV and Alder Lake? I've got the replacement springs and backplate for my block and am not sure whether to bother with the 1mm washers.


I did a test before I put my system together. Contact was near perfect with the block and backplate (Z690 Apex), no washer mod. Even/thin spread around the die, with only a very slight bias to one side around the edge (likely due to TIM application, not the block). Temps have been fine. <40c water to CPU max core temp delta in Cinebench R23. Average <35c.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Voltage makes a difference for water-to-die delta. I usually have both voltage dip switches ON when I play games (don’t worry, I have the 10 year warranty). This raises the delta by a degree or 2. The undervolting community probably sees lower deltas.


----------



## yzonker

So I've always noticed quite a bit of lag in my water temp reading with it in a spare port in my reservoir (when it was cooling, I would see a negative block delta). So I decided to move the sensor to the input side of my gpu block to get it in more direct flow and get what seems like the best reading for my block delta. Made a 1-2C difference. Now I'm showing [email protected] with the Heatkiller V. A little surprised it made that much difference although seemed like that part of the res was kinda cutoff from the main flow, so maybe it's always slightly cooler? Not sure really.


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

I have a heatkiller IV pro has heat killer solved the LGA1700 bending issue? Is the fix free?


----------



## matique

Kommando Kodiak said:


> I have a heatkiller IV pro has heat killer solved the LGA1700 bending issue? Is the fix free?


you can purchase the backplate from their site. install the backplate first, then install the cpu. Should reduce the amount of flex.


----------



## Section31

The copper issue staining is bugging me everytime i take out and find copperish elements stuck on fittings. Mostly cleanable (wippable) but its all coming around fittings around the mo-ra3. Machine hasn’t been on for long periods of time since finishing too. Highly doubt changing the mo-ra3 will make any difference.

Then the bitspower royal blue lol. Found chip painting from the g1/4 thread and its within the loop but not sticking to anything thankfully.


----------



## Kommando Kodiak

matique said:


> you can purchase the backplate from their site. install the backplate first, then install the cpu. Should reduce the amount of flex.












do i need all of this?


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Section31 said:


> The copper issue staining is bugging me everytime i take out and find copperish elements stuck on fittings. Mostly cleanable (wippable) but its all coming around fittings around the mo-ra3. Machine hasn’t been on for long periods of time since finishing too. Highly doubt changing the mo-ra3 will make any difference.
> 
> Then the bitspower royal blue lol. Found chip painting from the g1/4 thread and its within the loop but not sticking to anything thankfully.


My Hydrocopper block turned dark blue. I’ve never seen copper oxidize so fast.


----------



## Ryle Kittenhouse

geriatricpollywog said:


> My Hydrocopper block turned dark blue. I’ve never seen copper oxidize so fast.


Did you use a chemical to clean your mora before use examples would be mayhems blitz, primochill radclean, citric acid, or vinegar


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Ryle Kittenhouse said:


> Did you use a chemical to clean your mora before use examples would be mayhems blitz, primochill radclean, citric acid, or vinegar


No, I went through several changes of tap water over the first 3 weeks of having the MO-RA. Then I switched to distilled with 30% Mayhems XT-1 concentrate. I don’t know if my tap water is treated with chlorine.


----------



## tabascosauz

Got a question for y'all that have the Tube 100 - how do you mount this one to a (or a pair of) 140mm fan?

A guide out there says that Tube 100 is too short to have the necessary spacing for any 120/140mm fan, so mounting with 30236+30234 seems like it's out of the question. But that doesn't leave me with any alternatives. I have a rather chunky 45mm rad with push pull config going into a Thermaltake P3, so I fear that I won't have the clearance to use the reservoir mounting plate that Thermaltake includes (it sits below where the rads are and mounts res vertically, which might be a problem with a push-pull rad).

Worst case I'll just get a Tube 150 instead, I just have some plans down the road and would rather not replace the 150 because it doesn't fit a smaller case


----------



## EniGma1987

yzonker said:


> So I've always noticed quite a bit of lag in my water temp reading with it in a spare port in my reservoir (when it was cooling, I would see a negative block delta). So I decided to move the sensor to the input side of my gpu block to get it in more direct flow and get what seems like the best reading for my block delta. Made a 1-2C difference. Now I'm showing [email protected] with the Heatkiller V. A little surprised it made that much difference although seemed like that part of the res was kinda cutoff from the main flow, so maybe it's always slightly cooler? Not sure really.


Wouldnt the radiator be right before the reservoir? While the whole loop does reach a general sort of equilibrium on temperature, it will be slightly cooler immediately after the radiator and slightly hotter immediately after say a CPU or GPU block. Now if you are running straight from your res, through a pump, into the GPU and havent gone through any block yet, then it is a bit strange to already see 1-2c different without having yet picked up a source of heat into the water. It could be ad you say, direct flow path vs corner pooling.


----------



## yzonker

EniGma1987 said:


> Wouldnt the radiator be right before the reservoir? While the whole loop does reach a general sort of equilibrium on temperature, it will be slightly cooler immediately after the radiator and slightly hotter immediately after say a CPU or GPU block. Now if you are running straight from your res, through a pump, into the GPU and havent gone through any block yet, then it is a bit strange to already see 1-2c different without having yet picked up a source of heat into the water. It could be ad you say, direct flow path vs corner pooling.


Loop order is, 

Res with D5-->280 rad-->360 rad-->cpu block-->gpu block-->external 480 rad with D5-->Res

With the temp sensor in the new location I tried running Cinebench to see if the cpu block raised the water temp reading, but it didn't change even 1C. I have dual D5's. 

Seems like I have a similar amount of rad cooling before either location. That external rad is a CL480 with push/pull fans. So I suspect it's fairly equivalent to the 2 smaller internals (both 30mm thick).


----------



## karnivor

Does anyone know if Watercool operates on a 5 day work week? Just trying to verify whether or not a "35 workday" shipping time will be approximately 7 weeks. Thanks!


----------



## Jashin

karnivor said:


> Does anyone know if Watercool operates on a 5 day work week? Just trying to verify whether or not a "35 workday" shipping time will be approximately 7 weeks. Thanks!


This is from Hardwareluxx forum posted on a day of the preorder for FTW3080 by Markus



> Wir haben unseren HEATKILLER V für die FTW3 endlich fertig gestellt. Der Kühler ist ab sofort vorbestellbar und wird ab der 3.-4. Jänner Woche versendet. Grund der Verzögerung der Auslieferung sind die weihnachtlichen Betriebsruhen, in welche wir uns ab dem 24.12. auch verabschieden. Die erste Charge wurde schon produziert und befindet sich in der Beschichtung. Für die lange Wartezeit möchten wir uns mit einem kleinen Rabatt bei unseren treuen Fans und Stammkunden bedanken. Der Rabatt gilt bis zum 3.1.2022. In den letzten Monaten haben wir uns intensiv mit den Ram-Temperaturen der aktuellen Nvidia RTX GPUs beschäftigt und viele Erfahrungen gesammelt. Aktuell laufen die Tests mit einer aktiven Backplate, konkrete News gibt es dazu in der ersten Jänner Woche.


Which roughly translated to:

We have finally completed our HEATKILLER V for the FTW3. The cooler is available for pre-order now and will be available from the 3rd-4th. Shipped week of January. The reason for the delay in delivery is the Christmas shutdown, which we will be going into from December 24th. also say goodbye. The first batch has already been produced and is being coated. We would like to thank our loyal fans and regular customers for the long wait with a small discount. The discount is valid until January 3rd, 2022. In the last few months we have been intensively involved with the ram temperatures of the current Nvidia RTX GPUs and have gained a lot of experience. The tests are currently running with an active backplate, concrete news will be available in the first week of January. 

Google translate for some reason recognizes 3-4 as April which contradicts next statement about January shipment. If the translator didn't do a huge prank on me they should be shipping preordered FTW3080 somewhere about now.


----------



## smokedawg

Jashin said:


> Google translate for some reason recognizes 3-4 as April which contradicts next statement about January shipment. If the translator didn't do a huge prank on me they should be shipping preordered FTW3080 somewhere about now.


You are correct. "3.-4. Jänner Woche" means 3rd to 4th week of January.


----------



## EniGma1987

@Watercool-Daniel Any word on release date and final price of the active backplate?


----------



## karnivor

smokedawg said:


> You are correct. "3.-4. Jänner Woche" means 3rd to 4th week of January.


Am I correct in understanding that this is for preorders only? And that my order of a FTW3 waterblock from today will take 33-37 workdays from today to be processed and shipped? I'm fine with waiting for a quality product, just trying to accurately plan the timeline for my build. Thanks again.


----------



## deme

From the hardwarelux forums, today's post from Watercool (Markus). I hope the translation from google is correct 😅 



> the base plates of the nickel plate that were shipped in December reached us today 💪 and we are really doing our best to make you satisfied. These are quick and dirty pictures where the base plate has not yet been refurbished


----------



## mandrix

Hope I'm in the right thread here....
I bought a heatkiller DDC pump multitop x2 a while back, and just bought a single multitop to place in between, making it a DDC multitop x 3. However it came with only screws to attach a pump. I can see no way to attach the single multitop unit in between the two "end" pump tops, as there were no longer screws provided with the single unit. The existing screws are only long enough for the original x2 pump top.
What gives here, or what am I missing?


----------



## mandrix

mandrix said:


> Hope I'm in the right thread here....
> I bought a heatkiller DDC pump multitop x2 a while back, and just bought a single multitop to place in between, making it a DDC multitop x 3. However it came with only screws to attach a pump. I can see no way to attach the single multitop unit in between the two "end" pump tops, as there were no longer screws provided with the single unit. The existing screws are only long enough for the original x2 pump top.
> What gives here, or what am I missing?


Never mind, I see there is an "expansion kit". Would have been nice to know that when I bought the units.


----------



## Alxz

I want to buy a 480-L Stainless Steel and a 240-L SS from the Heatkiller but the 62 - 63 workdays for estimate shipping is throwing me off a bit, is that the time to process the shipping or for the product to arrive? 

By the way, is there a way to use the IV CPU block in AMD to mount it in a way that ports are faced horizontally rather than vertically?


----------



## paskowitz

Alxz said:


> I want to buy a 480-L Stainless Steel and a 240-L SS from the Heatkiller but the 62 - 63 workdays for estimate shipping is throwing me off a bit, is that the time to process the shipping or for the product to arrive?
> 
> By the way, is there a way to use the IV CPU block in AMD to mount it in a way that ports are faced horizontally rather than vertically?


I ordered some 360mm rads a week ago and they shipped out within like 3-4 days. So maybe it's not as bad as the website says.

Also, another month... no FTW3 block pics or ship date 🥲


----------



## paskowitz

WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


I think WC's big mistake was leaving the ftw3 block last. It was in the star block of this generation, until a survey was made. A year passed and nothing! Also her active backplate was shown something but there is no presale (the price is not known). Weeks go by and neither the block nor the...




www.hardwareluxx.de







> Hello,
> 
> short feedback on the FTW3 cooler. Due to an optimization of the spacers, there were further delays. It is also related to the fact that our supplier had difficulties with the delivery dates. Here I have pictures of the nickel version. The black version will be submitted in the next few days. In the next 1-2 days you will also see the information about the active backplate. Since our hut is on fire, I will address the open questions in the coming days.


----------



## acoustic

Best looking blocks on the market.

Really hope to see more blocks for cards like the STRIX, and a more useful release time for next-gen.


----------



## Jashin

acoustic said:


> Best looking blocks on the market.
> 
> Really hope to see more blocks for cards like the STRIX, and a more useful release time for next-gen.


*Best looking blocks who maybe will be be released in an unknown future to the market.


----------



## deme

Active backplates are live!


----------



## EniGma1987

@Watercool-Daniel Does that activate backplate that says it is for the FTW3 model also work for reference designs?


----------



## bern43

I'm guessing the active backplate isn't going to fit under the heatsink on my Apex z690 board? I've got a drive under there so I really don't want to take the heatsink off.


----------



## paskowitz

bern43 said:


> I'm guessing the active backplate isn't going to fit under the heatsink on my Apex z690 board? I've got a drive under there so I really don't want to take the heatsink off.


Looks like it's going to be tight for a number of boards 😬


----------



## chibi

@Watercool-Daniel - can you let me know which i/o single slot bracket is compatible with the FTW3? On the site, I see two options available. One is XC3 specific, and the other is the generic 3080/90. Can either be used on the FTW3?


----------



## Section31

bern43 said:


> I'm guessing the active backplate isn't going to fit under the heatsink on my Apex z690 board? I've got a drive under there so I really don't want to take the heatsink off.


The good thing is you can remove that extra thick heatsink and use something like cooper heatsink to cool the nvme stored there.


----------



## Turgin

Is it worth getting the active backplate for an original 3080 10GB card? I'm thinking not since there isn't any memory on the back but with an opportunity to add one to my order before it ships I'd like to be sure.


----------



## yzonker

Turgin said:


> Is it worth getting the active backplate for an original 3080 10GB card? I'm thinking not since there isn't any memory on the back but with an opportunity to add one to my order before it ships I'd like to be sure.


Not unless you are looking for that last 0.5% for benchmarking or something like that. If you use good pads your mem temps will be very low with just the block. Even my 3090 with nothing on the backplate mines ETH at 70C or so. Heatsink and fan brings that down to 60-62C. It's a reference Zotac, HK V block, and that good thermal putty from Digikey. Good pads like Gelid Extreme will be about the same.


----------



## Turgin

yzonker said:


> Not unless you are looking for that last 0.5% for benchmarking or something like that.


Kind of what I thought. Thanks.


----------



## bern43

I got an email back from WC indicating that they tested it with a number of motherboards, so it sounds like it might fit the Apex Z690. Looks like it will be tight though.

What's the expected temp drop for the active backplate? Not sure it's worth it.


----------



## EniGma1987

I got an email back from WC support that this active backplate only fits the FTW3 model like it says on the store page. No other cards are compatible. Really unfortunate because I had thought Watercool said they were making an active backplate for reference design like a year ago


----------



## paskowitz

bern43 said:


> I got an email back from WC indicating that they tested it with a number of motherboards, so it sounds like it might fit the Apex Z690. Looks like it will be tight though.
> 
> What's the expected temp drop for the active backplate? Not sure it's worth it.


Probably similar (maybe a few degrees better) to other ABPs... so about a 20/25c drop on the memory hotspot/junction. Maybe 1c on the core. Considering it may not fit in the horizontal position... I would 100% make sure you have the option to do a vertical mount. If you don't (or really don't want to), then definitely don't get it.


----------



## yzonker

paskowitz said:


> Probably similar (maybe a few degrees better) to other ABPs... so about a 20/25c drop on the memory hotspot/junction. Maybe 1c on the core. Considering it may not fit in the horizontal position... I would 100% make sure you have the option to do a vertical mount. If you don't (or really don't want to), then definitely don't get it.


I doubt it's that much if you use good pads. My 3090 mines at 70-74C with nothing on the backplate. I'm not sure I've seen anyone hit 50C with an active backplate while mining. Probably more like 10-15C. And of course a heatsink and fan on the backplate gets me down to 60-64C depending on room temp. Probably only worth getting the active backplate for asthetics.


----------



## paskowitz

(not mine)* Orders are going out.


----------



## acoustic

Wish they made one for the STRIX. Looks damn good! Hope the performance matches up


----------



## paskowitz

acoustic said:


> Wish they made one for the STRIX. Looks damn good! Hope the performance matches up


Yeah. Next gen, I hope they do reference, Strix and FTW3. That should cover the broadest market. It would help if the reference and founders use the same PCB next time around.


----------



## chibi

It looks like that block is missing the o-ring for the inlet channel to the core fins. I am seeing incorrectly?


----------



## paskowitz

chibi said:


> It looks like that block is missing the o-ring for the inlet channel to the core fins. I am seeing incorrectly?


They could be using a clear o-ring for that area.


----------



## Suteyaten

paskowitz said:


> They could be using a clear o-ring for that area.


I have the Navi 21 block and I can confirm that's the case for that block. It's not a complete o of a ring though, it's open at the top for water to flow through and over the jet plate. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same situation for the FTW3 block.


----------



## deme

My block was shipped yesterday. Cant wait! (no active packplate, just the passive one)


----------



## Jashin

I've recived today a shippment number for silver one.


----------



## paskowitz

Still nothing for me (ordered on the 23rd) 😓


----------



## coolpipes

Confirming my FTW3 block has shipped as well


----------



## Alxz

Alxz said:


> I want to buy a 480-L Stainless Steel and a 240-L SS from the Heatkiller but the 62 - 63 workdays for estimate shipping is throwing me off a bit, is that the time to process the shipping or for the product to arrive?
> 
> By the way, is there a way to use the IV CPU block in AMD to mount it in a way that ports are faced horizontally rather than vertically?


looks like yes, it might take a while! The order has not updated since Feb 1st. Maybe at the end of month  I feel like waiting for keyboard group buys lol


----------



## Jashin

Passive Backplate + Silver FTW3 has arrived today!


----------



## arieldeboca

Jashin said:


> View attachment 2550640
> 
> 
> Passive Backplate + Silver FTW3 has arrived today!


Hello. Can you upload photos of the block and backplate instructions? Thank you


----------



## Ironsmack

For those that got their 3080/3090 FTW3 blocks, whats the thermal pad thickness?


----------



## paskowitz

Ironsmack said:


> For those that got their 3080/3090 FTW3 blocks, whats the thermal pad thickness?


They are all 1mm. IDK about the backplate though.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

hey all
I have the HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL PROCESSOR) PURE COPPER 
not the lga 1x00 version. Is this one compatible with lga1700 ? is it compatible with the lga1700 backplate and upgrade kit? Any one using it on 12th gen?


----------



## Section31

Huseyinbaykal said:


> hey all
> I have the HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL PROCESSOR) PURE COPPER
> not the lga 1x00 version. Is this one compatible with lga1700 ? is it compatible with the lga1700 backplate and upgrade kit? Any one using it on 12th gen?


Basically depends on your mobo. If your asus you are fine with lga1200. Otherwise just need the backplate and screws.


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

Z690 apex. Should I buy the 1700 backplate and springs?


----------



## bscool

Huseyinbaykal said:


> Z690 apex. Should I buy the 1700 backplate and springs?


I would use the lga1700 mounting kit as it makes a big difference in temps if the mounting pressure is not correct. A good 15c diference.

Also lga1200 holes in backplate dont line up and willl not lay flat. It will work but not ideal. Lga1200 has 2 hole and lga1700 had 4 holes in backplates.



https://shop.watercool.de/media/image/product/2529/lg/heatkiller-iv-backplate-intel-1700_1~2.jpg





https://shop.watercool.de/media/image/product/920/lg/heatkillerz-iv-backplate-intel-1150-1151-1155-1156-1200.jpg


----------



## Huseyinbaykal

thanks for help m8


----------



## Marty Z

I have a large watercool shipment coming in, CPU block, FTW3 block, and res and pump. Unfortunately it's been sitting in France for the last 5 days due to operational delays. Thank you Fedex!!!


----------



## Turgin

Marty Z said:


> I have a large watercool shipment coming in, CPU block, FTW3 block, and res and pump. Unfortunately it's been sitting in France for the last 5 days due to operational delays. Thank you Fedex!!!


I hate having to use FedEx for anything. I am/was in a similar situation but only waiting on a FTW3 block, backplate, and LGA 1700 mounting kit. Thankfully it only sat in France for a little over a day to then be held up in NJ for the past 3 days. All the while the delivery date was "pending" and now says tomorrow by 8pm but I have < 0 confidence in that. I've waited this long what's a few more days?


----------



## Marty Z

Marty Z said:


> I have a large watercool shipment coming in, CPU block, FTW3 block, and res and pump. Unfortunately it's been sitting in France for the last 5 days due to operational delays. Thank you Fedex!!!


I just love Fedex logistics. 2 days from Germany to France, a 5 day layover in France, and then 1 day from France to my doorstep in NJ 🤦‍♂️, makes no sense to me. But it is what it is, I finally got my order. I am finally a member of the heatkiller club.


----------



## ArchStanton

Marty Z said:


> I am finally a member of the heatkiller club.


I have been very pleased with my IV CPU block. If you have any "gunk" in your loop, expect to find it in the micro channels directly below the inlet port after about a week. Also, when dismounting the block for maintenance it is sometimes advantageous to hold the lower knurled portion of the mounting studs with curved forceps while unscrewing the upper knurled nut.


----------



## acoustic

Marty Z said:


> I just love Fedex logistics. 2 days from Germany to France, a 5 day layover in France, and then 1 day from France to my doorstep in NJ 🤦‍♂️, makes no sense to me. But it is what it is, I finally got my order. I am finally a member of the heatkiller club.


Block looks awesome - please be sure to do some thorough testing on how it performs! I had a good experience with Fedex on my Heatkiller order, also to NJ.

I assume I'll see you one day at the Microcenter in St. David's, PA, unless you're in Northern Jersey and up by Newark.


----------



## Marty Z

I was not aware of the microcenter in PA, I go to the one in Northern Jersey. I'm actually in Southern Jersey but according to google maps I'm dead center between the 2.


----------



## acoustic

Marty Z said:


> I was not aware of the microcenter in PA, I go to the one in Northern Jersey. I'm actually in Southern Jersey but according to google maps I'm dead center between the 2.


The one in PA is awesome - large store so they get a lot of stock.

I'm also southern, just close to the PA border. Next time you need something from Heatkiller, let me know, we can always do a group-order to save on shipping fees if we both need something.


----------



## lordkahless

I just received shipping notification for a Heatkiller V and active backplate. Originally this was going onto a 3090 FTW3 that is mounted vertically on a Thermaltake P5 case. Replacing an EK Vector block. But this Heatkiller block looks so good that I am thinking about putting it in a different PC I have that would be mounted horizontally on a Z690 Apex. I know the EK active backplate won't fit on a Z90 Apex with the Nvme heatsink coming in contact. Has anyone determined if the Heatkiller active backplate will work with this motherboard? The photos are hard to tell. It almost looks like the Heatkiller is not as thick as the EK one. 

EK Active backplate on a Z690 Apex









Heatkiller active backplate


----------



## paskowitz

lordkahless said:


> I just received shipping notification for a Heatkiller V and active backplate. Originally this was going onto a 3090 FTW3 that is mounted vertically on a Thermaltake P5 case. Replacing an EK Vector block. But this Heatkiller block looks so good that I am thinking about putting it in a different PC I have that would be mounted horizontally on a Z690 Apex. I know the EK active backplate won't fit on a Z90 Apex with the Nvme heatsink coming in contact. Has anyone determined if the Heatkiller active backplate will work with this motherboard? The photos are hard to tell. It almost looks like the Heatkiller is not as thick as the EK one.
> 
> EK Active backplate on a Z690 Apex
> View attachment 2553264
> 
> 
> Heatkiller active backplate
> View attachment 2553265


I believe the Heatkiller ABP is 10mm taller than the standard backplate. It's going to be tight.


----------



## lordkahless

I currently have an Optimus Absolute block on it. Their back plate is definitely thicker then most and there is a tiny amount of clearance. Maybe I can find out how thick the Optimus plate is.


----------



## lordkahless

Looks like the Optimus back plate with the fujipoly pad is 7.6mm thick

This is how much space I have between the Optimus block and the heatsink. Maybe 3mm? So total of 10.5mm-ish to play with.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Got my FTW3 block for my 3080Ti and a passive backplate. Germany to my door in California in two days. That's simply amazing. 
Plus the LGA1700 backplate and upgrade kit for future use.


----------



## paskowitz

Got mine in as well. While the wait was painful, at least the final product doesn't disappoint.


----------



## paskowitz

Looks like the FTW3 block may not work with the upcoming 3090 Ti









Oh no, anyway.


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Looks like the FTW3 block may not work with the upcoming 3090 Ti
> View attachment 2553396
> 
> 
> Oh no, anyway.


Its just the beginning i fear. We are getting new psus connector (12+4) and this could lead to atx12vo being implemented in diy market. So new psu plus new psu custom cables too. Worst time to implement these things.


----------



## Ironsmack

paskowitz said:


> They are all 1mm. IDK about the backplate though.



Thanks man, appreciate it 👍🏽


----------



## paskowitz

For anyone dumb enough to get a 3090 Ti... the WC HK 30X0 block will 100% not work.

3090 Ti









3090


----------



## lordkahless

Just got my Heatkiller V FTW3 and active back plate in. I discussed more with Watercool if the active will fit on a Z690 hero under the Nvme block. They sent me a more detailed schematic of the dimensions. Determined its about 3.3mm too thick for the Asus nvme block. Oh well, it will go onto a different computer in a vertical orientation on a Crosshair Dark Hero board.

The active backplate is seriously thick and heavy. Could knock somebody out with that thing.


----------



## cneuhauser

So... Heatkiller IV Pro (Copper) LGA 1700... where can I get one WITH the backplate and correct hardware.

I've seen a couple listings at Newegg and Titan Rig, but absolutely NO mention of the backplate. I'm assuming the backplate is necessary? (Why don't they just include it?)

Thanks for the assistance.


----------



## ArchStanton

@cneuhauser you are specifically looking for a domestic (US) retailer? I ask because of the links provided by @matique in HeatKiller IV Pro (AlderLake?) vs EKW Velocity 2 | Overclock.net


----------



## bscool

cneuhauser said:


> So... Heatkiller IV Pro (Copper) LGA 1700... where can I get one WITH the backplate and correct hardware.
> 
> I've seen a couple listings at Newegg and Titan Rig, but absolutely NO mention of the backplate. I'm assuming the backplate is necessary? (Why don't they just include it?)
> 
> Thanks for the assistance.


As far as I know Heatkiller has never included backplate they have always had it optional. Look at the instructions for the block it just uses the standoffs.



https://shop.watercool.de/mediafiles/Manuals/MA_HK_IV.pdf



when I looked into getting the lga 1700 backplate I would have had to get it from Heatkiller/overseas and with shipping it made it not worth it so I didnt go with Heatkiller.


----------



## acoustic

cneuhauser said:


> So... Heatkiller IV Pro (Copper) LGA 1700... where can I get one WITH the backplate and correct hardware.
> 
> I've seen a couple listings at Newegg and Titan Rig, but absolutely NO mention of the backplate. I'm assuming the backplate is necessary? (Why don't they just include it?)
> 
> Thanks for the assistance.


Unfortunately, you can't buy the block with the backplate (it's optional and was not really necessary ((imo)) before LGA1700) and LGA1700 mounting springs. You'll need to order the block, and then the backplate + mounting kit separately. I'm not sure if the mounting kit + backplate have made it to US Retailers, but for small orders, the shipping from Germany is actually really cheap - they use DHL and it comes in a small parcel bag.

Looking at my order, I paid very little in shipping. It was 20Euro total for the backplate, mounting kit, and shipping. 7.95 Euro for the shipping alone, which is nothing.


----------



## Section31

cneuhauser said:


> So... Heatkiller IV Pro (Copper) LGA 1700... where can I get one WITH the backplate and correct hardware.
> 
> I've seen a couple listings at Newegg and Titan Rig, but absolutely NO mention of the backplate. I'm assuming the backplate is necessary? (Why don't they just include it?)
> 
> Thanks for the assistance.


Backplate was always optional lol. I have done installs without the backplate. I even have an set (failed optimus block experiment) if you want them (mounting and backplate) for shipping only


----------



## anr11

Does the 3080 FTW3 even have any components mounted on the backside that would benefit from an active backplate? I assume it's only really beneficial for the 3090's.


----------



## paskowitz

anr11 said:


> Does the 3080 FTW3 even have any components mounted on the backside that would benefit from an active backplate? I assume it's only really beneficial for the 3090's.


That is correct. I asked Watercool what the temp difference on a 3080 Ti w/ABP would be and they said about 0.5-1c on the core and <5c on the memory. Certainly not enough to change OC stability. Perhaps if you used Fujipoly 17w/mk pads it would be a bit more, but that's hardly worth the cost.


----------



## acoustic

I don't see much reason to go active backplate for a 3080/3080TI, but heat from the memory and chip will soak the PCB, so I guess if you cooled the back of the PCB, it would transfer a small amount of heat even though the components are on the other size. I wouldn't invest the extra money for the active, but I guess there would be a small benefit to it.


----------



## EniGma1987

@Watercool-Daniel Now that someone has shown that replacing the memory chip thermal pads with solid coppper and using standard high-end TIM gives quite a lot better temps than even using good pads does, will your company consider making a change to your blocks on the next gen where the memory spots are "deeper" and would touch the memory chips directly? It would be really nice to have this sort of thing built into the waterblock itself rather than using a custom machines spacer block to replace the pads.

Maybe also experiment with adding some small microchannels over the memory chip locations in the path of the water too for some even better cooling on the now quite power hungry memory chips being used these days.



Spoiler












Copper plate mod for GeForce RTX 30 GPUs lowers memory temperature by 20% - VideoCardz.com


Lowering Ampere’s memory temperature has never been simplier Last month, we reported on an interesting modification made by DandyWorks. He replaced the thermal pads for the memory for the RTX 3070 Ti graphics card with copper shims, which resulted in 46°C lower memory temperature. As it turned...




videocardz.com


----------



## yzonker

EniGma1987 said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Now that someone has shown that replacing the memory chip thermal pads with solid coppper and using standard high-end TIM gives quite a lot better temps than even using good pads does, will your company consider making a change to your blocks on the next gen where the memory spots are "deeper" and would touch the memory chips directly? It would be really nice to have this sort of thing built into the waterblock itself rather than using a custom machines spacer block to replace the pads.
> 
> Maybe also experiment with adding some small microchannels over the memory chip locations in the path of the water too for some even better cooling on the now quite power hungry memory chips being used these days.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper plate mod for GeForce RTX 30 GPUs lowers memory temperature by 20% - VideoCardz.com
> 
> 
> Lowering Ampere’s memory temperature has never been simplier Last month, we reported on an interesting modification made by DandyWorks. He replaced the thermal pads for the memory for the RTX 3070 Ti graphics card with copper shims, which resulted in 46°C lower memory temperature. As it turned...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> videocardz.com


Has that really been shown to help a lot compared to using a HK block with 0.5mm high quality pads or putty?


----------



## paskowitz

EniGma1987 said:


> @Watercool-Daniel Now that someone has shown that replacing the memory chip thermal pads with solid coppper and using standard high-end TIM gives quite a lot better temps than even using good pads does, will your company consider making a change to your blocks on the next gen where the memory spots are "deeper" and would touch the memory chips directly? It would be really nice to have this sort of thing built into the waterblock itself rather than using a custom machines spacer block to replace the pads.
> 
> Maybe also experiment with adding some small microchannels over the memory chip locations in the path of the water too for some even better cooling on the now quite power hungry memory chips being used these days.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper plate mod for GeForce RTX 30 GPUs lowers memory temperature by 20% - VideoCardz.com
> 
> 
> Lowering Ampere’s memory temperature has never been simplier Last month, we reported on an interesting modification made by DandyWorks. He replaced the thermal pads for the memory for the RTX 3070 Ti graphics card with copper shims, which resulted in 46°C lower memory temperature. As it turned...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> videocardz.com


That's on an air cooler though. FAR less mounting pressure than a water block. So I doubt the differences would be significant. Other than an ABP of course, the easiest way to drop a few degrees is to use Fujipoly pads and put a *tiny* dot of quality TIM on the memory module and top side of the pad. Even then, the temp decrease isn't going to increase you max vram OC and the cost would be relatively significant.

It would be interesting to see Watercool experiment with perhaps different ABP designs that cover the entire backside of the block with water flow and thermal pads (Optimus KPE block). Optimus and EK both claim this reduces "PCB heatsoak"... but my gut tells me that's likely just an excuse to charge more. 

I would like to see a return of more "styled" backplates. I like the current minimalist design and I think most people would concur. However, after seeing how nice the ABP looks on the FTW3 block, I think carrying over some of the design language from the front face of the block would be a nice touch. A combination of the Navi and FTW3 wrap around enclosure for the backplate would be ace as well. No exposed PCB. This is the one thing I like about the new EK blocks, they look like a solid piece.


----------



## EniGma1987

paskowitz said:


> That's on an air cooler though. FAR less mounting pressure than a water block. So I doubt the differences would be significant.


Hmm. Maybe it is time for me to spend some money on these copper shims and do some testing on differences myself to see what they do with a waterblock then.

The memory chip thermal pads are 0.5mm thickness?
These are the ones I should get, correct?
https://www.amazon.com/mod-smart-Fujipoly-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=I7BZDVVQ3OWX&keywords=Fujipoly+0.5mm&qid=1649877028&sprefix=fujipoly+0.5mm,aps,147&sr=8-1

Should I use standard Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut TIM (12.5w/k) for the copper pad replacements or should I step it up to Conductonaut (73w/k) just to give the copper even more of an advantage? I personally dont really like the COnductonaut because LM TIMs corrode the copper slowly. Id probably get another year or two out of the block before Id have to replace it and the copper shims (assuming to keep the copper ones on in the end)


----------



## InfoSeeker

Strong Dollar or weak Euro?

Purchased a "HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL LGA 1X00) BLACK COPPER" direct from watercool:

waterblock (no VAT) = 83.99 €
shipping (UPS 4 day) = 24.95 €
total = 108.94 €
108.94 € showed on credit-card charge as $118.46
TitanRig is only U.S. vendor I found with product (not on their webshop, but listed on Amazon & eBay):

waterblock = $134.99
free shipping = $0.00
sales tax (TX) = $11.14
total = $146.13


----------



## acoustic

The dollar is most certainly, definitely, 100% not strong right now.. lol.

I would imagine it's an up-charge due to being a US retailer and the low availability from US retailers.


----------



## paskowitz

Shipping costs for Amazon sellers and general retailers have gotten up due to gas prices and inflation. I believe Amazon just instituted a 5% surcharge.

Stock of watercool products is so spotty in the US, It makes more sense to just order from Germany anyway. With that said, I do wish things like reservoir accessories were better stocked stateside.


----------



## InfoSeeker

acoustic said:


> The dollar is most certainly, definitely, 100% not strong right now.. lol.
> 
> I would imagine it's an up-charge due to being a US retailer and the low availability from US retailers.


The dollar has been appreciating against the Euro over the past year.


----------



## acoustic

InfoSeeker said:


> The dollar has been appreciating against the Euro over the past year.


That does not make the USD strong. My point regardless, is that your price comparison is not due to a weak Euro or strong Dollar.


----------



## InfoSeeker

acoustic said:


> That does not make the USD strong. My point regardless, is that your price comparison is not due to a weak Euro or strong Dollar.


Not sure what you mean. The USD, EURO exchange rate is very favorable to the USD atm. Does that not indicate USD strength, or EURO weakness?


----------



## acoustic

InfoSeeker said:


> Not sure what you mean. The USD, EURO exchange rate is very favorable to the USD atm. Does that not indicate USD strength, or EURO weakness?


The higher pricing you're seeing on the HKIV Pro at a US retailer is not due to the exchange rate, is what I'm sauing. The numerous other inflationary factors that are going on are the primary drivers of the cost difference. I wouldn't be surprised if a US retailer jacked the price up a few bucks on a product that is not really available from any other US retailer right now. Last time I looked, PPCS was out of stock too.

Either way, focusing on the HKIV Pro ..


----------



## yzonker

Titanrig's pricing is always higher on Amazon. I buy from their web shop whenever possible because of that. Although sometimes it's a wash since they charge shipping and I never pay shipping on Amazon since I'm a Prime member.


----------



## CyberBongi

Does anyone know if Heatkiller Rad 360-L will fit in the back chamber of the O11 Dynamic (NON-XL)? The only concern is the thickness, otherwise width and height seem perfect.


----------



## acoustic

Even in my XL, I don't know if the 360-L would fit. If that's your plan, I would measure out the 360-S for that placement.


----------



## Ironsmack

So i got my FTW3 WB and im having difficulty getting the card to post.

I have re-installed the air cooler twice, booted up and the card shows up on BIOS and im able to get video from the GPU.

However, when i installed the WB (twice now) im unable to get the BIOS recognize the GPU. It doesn't show up on the BIOS PCIe slot. 

Obviously the PCIe slot on the mobo works, so it got me thinking. Im looking at the PCIe fingers and it *looks to me*, its not _seated_ in all the way with the WB installed.

So i took the GPU off and reinstalled the I/O shield back cover and pushed it fwd towards the outside of the case, as best as i can.

After all of that, its seems to me that its not all the way in.











What does your installation look like? Does it look similar to mine? Or its seated further in?


----------



## Ironsmack

Ironsmack said:


> So i got my FTW3 WB and im having difficulty getting the card to post.
> 
> I have re-installed the air cooler twice, booted up and the card shows up on BIOS and im able to get video from the GPU.
> 
> However, when i installed the WB (twice now) im unable to get the BIOS recognize the GPU. It doesn't show up on the BIOS PCIe slot.
> 
> Obviously the PCIe slot on the mobo works, so it got me thinking. Im looking at the PCIe fingers and it *looks to me*, its not _seated_ in all the way with the WB installed.
> 
> So i took the GPU off and reinstalled the I/O shield back cover and pushed it fwd towards the outside of the case, as best as i can.
> 
> After all of that, its seems to me that its not all the way in.
> 
> 
> View attachment 2556684
> 
> 
> What does your installation look like? Does it look similar to mine? Or its seated further in?



Update to my problem:

I found out that my PCB doesn't like 2mm thermal pads on its active backplate, even though it was on Watercool's written manual.

Ive gone through a process of elimination and with my situation - the active backplate works with 1mm thermal pads.

Im currently doing some testing with mining - and at 75% power, my core is at 57 ish C and VRAM is between 72 - 75 C at 25C ambient.









So for anyone that followed the written instruction from Watercool and you didn't get a video out from your GPU. Try using 1mm thermal pads. Hopefully, im the only one that has this issue.

But ill leave this here, just in case someone else has an issue similar to mine with a EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 + Heatkiller FTW3 GPU and AB combo.


----------



## Liquid4rt

@Watercool-Daniel do you sell spare orings for the heatkiller V 3090 reference block? 

The middle oring over the jetplate has broke in half to my surprise!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Should have my 'HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL LGA 1X00) BLACK COPPER' in the next few days. I was downloading the manual, when I saw items 'HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700' and 'HEATKILLER IV Upgrade Kit for Intel LGA 1700' listed.

I believe I need the backplate, but am not sure about the upgrade kit.

Anyone with experience to provide guidance?


----------



## acoustic

InfoSeeker said:


> Should have my 'HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL LGA 1X00) BLACK COPPER' in the next few days. I was downloading the manual, when I saw items 'HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700' and 'HEATKILLER IV Upgrade Kit for Intel LGA 1700' listed.
> 
> I believe I need the backplate, but am not sure about the upgrade kit.
> 
> Anyone with experience to provide guidance?


The backplate is not necessary, but I recommend it. The mounting "upgrade kit" is definitely something you want to grab. If you have an ASUS board, it'll work without the upgrade it, but any other board manufacturer does not have LGA11xx/1200 sizing.

I would email Watercool and ask if you need the upgrade kit, or if it's included with your new block purchase. They have excellent support and always answer quickly; just remember the timezone difference.


----------



## InfoSeeker

acoustic said:


> The backplate is not necessary, but I recommend it. The mounting "upgrade kit" is definitely something you want to grab. If you have an ASUS board, it'll work without the upgrade it, but any other board manufacturer does not have LGA11xx/1200 sizing.
> 
> I would email Watercool and ask if you need the upgrade kit, or if it's included with your new block purchase. They have excellent support and always answer quickly; just remember the timezone difference.


Thank you.


----------



## deme

The Heatkiller family (with a little bit of aquacomputer's help 😋) is finally united!


----------



## ArchStanton

@deme Okay, under these lighting conditions, I can look at the G.Skill "Bling Ram" without wanting to 🤮. Well done.


----------



## Marty Z

deme said:


> The Heatkiller family (with a little bit of aquacomputer's help 😋) is finally united!


That looks very nice. Similar hardware as I will be using so I'm already liking how mine will eventually look.


----------



## deme

ArchStanton said:


> @deme Okay, under these lighting conditions, I can look at the G.Skill "Bling Ram" without wanting to 🤮. Well done.


Hahaha that's why they always stay OFF. They are too distracting.


----------



## CyberBongi

acoustic said:


> Even in my XL, I don't know if the 360-L would fit. If that's your plan, I would measure out the 360-S for that placement.


IT FITS!


----------



## EniGma1987

CyberBongi said:


> IT FITS!
> View attachment 2559049


Thats crazy. Looks so nice having three 360mm radiators fit in there like that.
But what about airflow on them?


----------



## CyberBongi

EniGma1987 said:


> Thats crazy. Looks so nice having three 360mm radiators fit in there like that.
> But what about airflow on them?


I'll add the fans soon, when I figure out which ones to buy, but there's enough space for them if that's the concern :d


----------



## dwolvin

What's the clearance between the vertical rad and the other pair? No fan concern? Looks really nice like this- I'd be tempted to hide all the fans...


----------



## broodro0ster

dwolvin said:


> What's the clearance between the vertical rad and the other pair? No fan concern? Looks really nice like this- I'd be tempted to hide all the fans...


Doesn't really matter since the rad sits behind the motherboard tray and the fans come in front of the tray.


----------



## dwolvin

broodro0ster said:


> Doesn't really matter since the rad sits behind the motherboard tray and the fans come in front of the tray.


Ah, so there is a bunch of room? Nice.


----------



## CyberBongi

dwolvin said:


> What's the clearance between the vertical rad and the other pair? No fan concern? Looks really nice like this- I'd be tempted to hide all the fans...


Actually, about 67mm.


----------



## Alxz

Starting a build with some watercool stuff  (motherboard is just for reference)

It is possible to use the AMD waterblock in horizontal position? last time I tried with my IV I couldn't but maybe there are new mounting hardware?


----------



## hdtvnut

acoustic said:


> The backplate is not necessary, but I recommend it. The mounting "upgrade kit" is definitely something you want to grab. If you have an ASUS board, it'll work without the upgrade it, but any other board manufacturer does not have LGA11xx/1200 sizing.
> 
> I would email Watercool and ask if you need the upgrade kit, or if it's included with your new block purchase. They have excellent support and always answer quickly; just remember the timezone difference.


I just got off the phone with Christian at watercool. Even if you have an Asus board, they recommend the upgrade kit. The posts should be about 0.8mm shorter.

Also, they are a week or two from coming out with a new 1700 cold-plate for the HK IV which should match the "bent" CPU better, doing away with needing washers or a replacement ILM like the der8auer.


----------



## acoustic

hdtvnut said:


> I just got off the phone with Christian at watercool. Even if you have an Asus board, they recommend the upgrade kit. The posts should be about 0.8mm shorter.
> 
> Also, they are a week or two from coming out with a new 1700 cold-plate for the HK IV which should match the "bent" CPU better, doing away with needing washers or a replacement ILM like the der8auer.


Yeah, I definitely would not run a block without the upgrade kit. The difference is certainly there. The issue with a cold-plate coming out to match a "bent" CPU concerns me, because what happens if Raptor Lake does not suffer from this "bending" phenomenon? Are we going to switch cold-plates with each chip now?

We're going down a weird path. I think swapping the ILM is a much better solution rather than messing with the block. I'm surprised to see Watercool even bothering with it.


----------



## hdtvnut

acoustic said:


> Yeah, I definitely would not run a block without the upgrade kit. The difference is certainly there. The issue with a cold-plate coming out to match a "bent" CPU concerns me, because what happens if Raptor Lake does not suffer from this "bending" phenomenon? Are we going to switch cold-plates with each chip now?
> 
> We're going down a weird path. I think swapping the ILM is a much better solution rather than messing with the block. I'm surprised to see Watercool even bothering with it.


I also prefer the idea of a replacement "contact frame". But the problem mentioned on the der8auer/Grizzly site is that removal of the original ILM is grounds for the mobo maker to refuse to honor the warranty. I'm wondering if they could detect or care that four screws were removed and replaced.

Thinking about ordering the contact frame.


----------



## acoustic

hdtvnut said:


> I prefer the idea of a replacement "contact frame". But the problem mentioned on the der8auer/Grizzly site is that removal of the original ILM is grounds for the mobo maker to refuse to honor the warranty. I'm wondering if they could detect that four screws were removed and replaced.


I had ran direct-die on my Z490 MSI MEG ACE (removed ILM). I RMA'd the board for a bad DIMM slot .. got my board back just fine. There's really no way to tell afaik, unless you're a dipshit and damage the board heavily.. and even then, they'd likely still take it.


----------



## hdtvnut

I cannot find a der8auer/Thermal 1700 contact frame in stock except overclockers.uk, which will not send it International Mail; DHL costs about 44 ero. CaseKing has no stock. Anybody know of a source?

I shortened my HK IV posts by 0.3 mm and have replacement top washers that are 0.5mm thinner. Now am waiting for the backplate to arrive.


----------



## hdtvnut

hdtvnut said:


> I cannot find a der8auer/Thermal 1700 contact frame in stock except overclockers.uk, which will not send it International Mail; DHL costs about 44 ero. CaseKing has no stock.


Just found them on Ebay/Titanrig for $48


----------



## hdtvnut

For 1700, you need to order the adapter kit from Watercool, as PPC/Kyle just told me their stock of HK IV Pro is not new enough to include the parts, nor do they have the kit or 1700 backplate. I won't know if my shortening the posts will work until I get the backplate.


----------



## Voodoo Rufus

Got my Heatkiller V installed on my FTW3 finally. Got my fans dialed in for a max of 1200rpm at these water temps. 

House: 72F/22C

Running Heaven demo:
GPU: 55C
GPU power: 375W
GPU clocks on stock curve: 1950-1980MHz
CPU power: 60-100W
Water temp: 40C 

I call this a win! I don't see a point to going full torture test with Furmark and Prime 95 simultaneously as it's not a real life load for me. I think I've got some OC headroom on the GPU with these temps.....


----------



## Jashin

Oh God time for some shame walking. My FTW 3080 Ti block has lied in a box for over 3 months since delivery - well you know war in the neighbourhood (got it few days after the war has started) not a really great time to reassemble the loop. 

Yesterday I've manged to finished putting the block on a card (btw did you also have had few small thermal pads remaining at the end of setup?) along with a steel backplate using original EVGA bracket. The problem is this block is heavy really heavy compared to original cooler and I would love to mount it vertically in my 719 (without any support from the bottom only the riser cable).

Looking at the construction the card is attached to the bracket using like 5 screws - and 3 of them are actually connected to the HDMI/Display Port connectors. The 4th one connects only to the PCB. Only the fifth one actually connects PCB, Bracket and Block. Is it really reasonable to mount a GPU Vertically without any support from the bottom that way (given how heavy the block actually is?).


----------



## Marty Z

Here is my official entry into the club. Still playing with the fan curves, might consider replacing the ll120s with noctuas. struggling to keep the water temp below 41c with fans below 2,000rpms after 1 hour of satisfactory.


----------



## rj2

Hi All.In the middle of assembling an evga 3080 ftw3 ultra 10g with the new heatkiller block and backplate,
Reading the last page of backplate installation,it talks about clearances between plate and solder points etc,using paper to check,beforer using

I have found 1 instance of the backplate supposedly shorting the card and bricking it,which was a 3080 xc3
Has anybody had any issues with this backplate or even bother checking these clearances out?

I am thinking of just buying some Kapton Tape and using that pretty much everywhere on backside of the plate


----------



## Marty Z

rj2 said:


> Hi All.In the middle of assembling an evga 3080 ftw3 ultra 10g with the new heatkiller block and backplate,
> Reading the last page of backplate installation,it talks about clearances between plate and solder points etc,using paper to check,beforer using
> 
> I have found 1 instance of the backplate supposedly shorting the card and bricking it,which was a 3080 xc3
> Has anybody had any issues with this backplate or even bother checking these clearances out?
> 
> I am thinking of just buying some Kapton Tape and using that pretty much everywhere on backside of the plate


Take a look at the pic above your post, that is the heatkiller V FTW3 block on a EVGA 3080 FTW3 Ultra LHR GPU. You just need to make sure that all the plastic standoffs are there in the backplate, that none are missing. What I did with mine after installing is shine a flashlight from the back so that I can see all solder points. No issues yet, has been running nonstop for over a week straight.


----------



## rj2

thanks for the tip,i saw that pic but was more focused on the small screen in case
thanks again


----------



## hdtvnut

Now have the HK IV Pro Copper, Backplate and der8auer Contact Frame installed. Temp 87C on R23, about six deg lower than Signature V2 with BIOS 1304 default and all else the same. Asus AI OC lowers that to 83C.

Still experimenting. Don't like the warp in my Hero board around the CPU area; have to custom adjust the posts because socket is not well aligned with the post base area,


----------



## Marty Z

rj2 said:


> thanks for the tip,i saw that pic but was more focused on the small screen in case
> thanks again


here is the screen

Amazon.com: Ingcool 7 inch HDMI LCD 1024x600 Resolution Capacitive Touch Screen IPS Display Module Compatible with Raspberry Pi 4 3 2 1 B B+ A+, PC, Supports Windows 10/8.1/8 / 7 : Electronics 

I can send you the .stl file for the bezel if you want.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Updated the rig, no more Phanteks Evolv Shift X. Downsized to a 11 litre Dan A4 H20 case! The MoRa 360 towers over this case and casts its own shadow lol. 

Is Watercool still going to bring out a active backplate for the heatkiller blocks? I keep asking but don't see anything being mentioned.


----------



## EniGma1987

Liquid4rt said:


> Is Watercool still going to bring out a active backplate for the heatkiller blocks? I keep asking but don't see anything being mentioned.


No, apparently they decided at some point the active blocks would only be for the FTW3 model and nothing else so everyone who had been waiting on those for the reference design the whole past year got shafted.


----------



## Section31

EniGma1987 said:


> No, apparently they decided at some point the active blocks would only be for the FTW3 model and nothing else so everyone who had been waiting on those for the reference design the whole past year got shafted.


Next gen is coming so lets hope 40xx founders is reference this time around


----------



## Liquid4rt

EniGma1987 said:


> No, apparently they decided at some point the active blocks would only be for the FTW3 model and nothing else so everyone who had been waiting on those for the reference design the whole past year got shafted.


That's a real shame, i had a feeling this would happen when they weren't giving any further info on it. Let's hope they do better for the 4000 series though im not sure if im gonna upgrade if im honest. 
The wait for the block i have now was a real wait time!


----------



## paskowitz

Section31 said:


> Next gen is coming so lets hope 40xx founders is reference this time around


Yeah. I really hope we get an FE block this time. Also, hopefully, the FE is the same as reference this time (like with 10 and 20 series).


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Yeah. I really hope we get an FE block this time. Also, hopefully, the FE is the same as reference this time (like with 10 and 20 series).


Totally. For me it will also depend on performance. If ifs 4k144 native on high end games then worth it since that’s endgame for long time.


----------



## Liquid4rt

Does anyone know if Heatkiller sell the covers for the gpu blocks separately? I couldn't find it in their spares part on their website. I want to change my cover from black to silver.


----------



## Marty Z

Ok, so here is a question I have and a problem I ran into when first installing my heatkiller IV cpu block and would just like some insight for the future.

We all know that with AM4 we need to be careful on removing the block to avoid pulling the CPU out of the socket, and that is exactly what happened to me when I tried to remove the block to check thermal paste coverage, luckily my cpu came straight out and was not damaged.

Now I know that with AM4 you need to twist and slide the block off and therein lies the problem. This block is so tight against the posts that there is absolutely no wiggle room to twist and slide the block. So how do others remove the block without pulling the cpu out?


----------



## Suteyaten

Marty Z said:


> Ok, so here is a question I have and a problem I ran into when first installing my heatkiller IV cpu block and would just like some insight for the future.
> 
> We all know that with AM4 we need to be careful on removing the block to avoid pulling the CPU out of the socket, and that is exactly what happened to me when I tried to remove the block to check thermal paste coverage, luckily my cpu came straight out and was not damaged.
> 
> Now I know that with AM4 you need to twist and slide the block off and therein lies the problem. This block is so tight against the posts that there is absolutely no wiggle room to twist and slide the block. So how do others remove the block without pulling the cpu out?


Run the system for a few minutes to warm and loosen up the thermal paste. Given your situation, I'd use a heat gun or hair dryer and then a plastic spudger to pry the CPU if it's still stuck on the block's cold plate. Do it over a pillow something else that can cushion the CPU in case it flings off.


----------



## travisthegrant

ppkstat said:


> My new heatkiller tube (with multiport attached) almost drove me insane. It was failing air leak testing and I could not find the leak. I used soapy water on all seams and plugs but got nothing.
> Next I 've set up a basic loop with the multiport, outlet of the res->top>inside the glass via the tube. There were no leaks but the unit could not bleed properly, probably due to the fact that air was somewhere introduced to the system.
> As a last resort I pressurized the unit and prayed it with soapy water in case I find the leak. The leak quickly revealed itself, it was on the top of the unit where the glass meets the multiport top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue has been addressed here before and the official answer was the following:
> 
> 
> 
> This may not apply here as I am not using the standard port but the multiport. When using a multiport and an internal tube the system must be airtight. If its not then you'll get either a leak or air being introduced to the system, it depends if the internal tube is set up as suction or an outlet. The fact that it's not leaking water does not mean anything is such a case. Mine was not leaking water but it was completely unusable because it could not bleed properly. I contacted support but I didn't receive an answer, it's been two days now.
> 
> Fortunately I found the solution thanks to @ThrashZone. I lubricated the glass orings with some water and the problem was solved. Its completely air-tight now.
> 
> I spent nearly a whole week of my life in this. I think it's something that has to be addressed by the company instead of blaming leak testers, assuming user errors and stating that problems arise when air testing with low pressure (0.5 bar) because the orings do not deform enough to seal properly.


This is my issue as well! Identical setup. I’ll try and I soapy water trick tomorrow!


----------



## Brickokermis

rj2 said:


> Hi All.In the middle of assembling an evga 3080 ftw3 ultra 10g with the new heatkiller block and backplate,
> Reading the last page of backplate installation,it talks about clearances between plate and solder points etc,using paper to check,beforer using
> 
> I have found 1 instance of the backplate supposedly shorting the card and bricking it,which was a 3080 xc3
> Has anybody had any issues with this backplate or even bother checking these clearances out?
> 
> I am thinking of just buying some Kapton Tape and using that pretty much everywhere on backside of the plate



Hi, have you seen this kind of watercool backplate problem with an RTX 3080 XC3?

Because honestly I have a RTX 3080 EVGA XC3, with a Watercool XC3 waterblock, and I have never seen this type of problem with watercool.
I do remember seeing this type of problem with EKWB cards with RTX 3080 FTW3s, and some XC3s, and more briefly with ASUS STRIXs on the EVGA forum.

But at Watercool, I have searched all the internet for almost 6 months, I did not find this type of problem with watercool blocks and backplates, that's even why I decided to go to watercool.

I haven't put my loop together yet... I will do it during July.
But you made me doubt this point...
After I have Kapton... in doubt, but still, I don't seem to have seen this type of problem in the past


----------



## rj2

Brickokermis said:


> Hi, have you seen this kind of watercool backplate problem with an RTX 3080 XC3?
> 
> Because honestly I have a RTX 3080 EVGA XC3, with a Watercool XC3 waterblock, and I have never seen this type of problem with watercool.
> I do remember seeing this type of problem with EKWB cards with RTX 3080 FTW3s, and some XC3s, and more briefly with ASUS STRIXs on the EVGA forum.
> 
> But at Watercool, I have searched all the internet for almost 6 months, I did not find this type of problem with watercool blocks and backplates, that's even why I decided to go to watercool.
> 
> I haven't put my loop together yet... I will do it during July.
> But you made me doubt this point...
> After I have Kapton... in doubt, but still, I don't seem to have seen this type of problem in the past


i read of the same issue as well so to be safe i bought some kapton tape and put everywhere on the backplate other than the thermal pad contacts
tedious but who knows??


----------



## vf-

CyberBongi said:


> IT FITS!
> View attachment 2559051
> 
> View attachment 2559049
> 
> View attachment 2559050


I never saw this until now. How did you manage to get a side radiator to line up? I couldn't get mine to fit no matter how. The chunky power blocks cables for the power button circuit kept pushing mine to the right not allowing the screws to line up.

Somebody else said force was required but no matter how hard I tried it was jamming against those chunky block cable connectors to the power circuit that I couldn't push further without something badly crunching. Which was the power button circuit.


----------



## CyberBongi

vf- said:


> I never saw this until now. How did you manage to get a side radiator to line up? I couldn't get mine to fit no matter how. The chunky power blocks cables for the power button circuit kept pushing mine to the right not allowing the screws to line up.
> 
> Somebody else said force was required but no matter how hard I tried it was jamming against those chunky block cable connectors to the power circuit that I couldn't push further without something badly crunching. Which was the power button circuit.


Do you have the exact same setup? I mean exact same radiator, and case?
I can take some photos for you


----------



## vf-

Yeah, I still have the original 011 though all the 3 radiators are in the XL.


----------



## vf-

So had to completely dissasemble my loop yesterday and what was left of today. Somehow my Gigabyte Aorus Z490 Xtreme motherboard went into some sort of BIOS software lockout after being shutdown from the previous night that was working fine. No life at all. Not even a jump start. So got it back up after popping the cr2032 battery which the clear CMOS button in the back would not. As the battery was behind some panels of the motherboard, fun and games this was. Flashed both BIOS's as it's apparently somehow related to older bugs in the BIOS after researching apparently.

So while I've got the system fully dismantled, I thought I'd replace a faulty fan that wont run full speed and also see which Heatkiller IV Pro Intel block to purchase. Do I go full copper or copper/acetal or copper/nickel/acetal or nickel/copper/acrylic top?

Having a dilemma which block to choose... I'd like maybe the acrylic so I can see the micro fins but if I get better performance with the full copper enclosure... Hmmm?


----------



## vf-

Decided to go with the Acrylic block with the partial silver cover so I can see the condition of the fins.

This persons build was the deal breaker on the block for me.






Foreground Eclipse by alxz - Intel Core i7-8700K, GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, Lian Li PC-O6S HTPC - PCPartPicker


Foreground Eclipse by alxz - Intel Core i7-8700K, GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, Lian Li PC-O6S HTPC




pcpartpicker.com





Something looks really sexy for the silver and acrylic.








Watercool HEATKILLER IV Pro CPU Waterblock, Intel CPU, Acryl (5be894182e9c420a8d26f8f3ff4dd58e) - PCPartPicker


Watercool HEATKILLER IV Pro CPU Waterblock, Intel CPU, Acryl (5be894182e9c420a8d26f8f3ff4dd58e)




pcpartpicker.com


----------



## chibi

I bought the black copper, in hind sight, I should have bought the full copper. Don't want to deal with any potential flaking issues.


----------



## vf-

chibi said:


> I bought the black copper, in hind sight, I should have bought the full copper. Don't want to deal with any potential flaking issues.


More chances of EK flaking than anything else I'd imagine. Considering my Velocity block is still fine 10 months in. Even the stainless steel jet plate is still pristine.


----------



## vf-

These Heatkiller Blocks are sexy. Cannot wait to get it all connected. The EK Velocity looks like a toy compared to this.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Quick question about mounting the 2080 Ti Heatkiller IV block -- does the screw torque sequence recommended in the manual affect thermal performance? I recently cleaned my block, which Ive done many times, but this time I reassembled and my delta from water temp to GPU temp (under similar heat load) is not 5c higher than it was. One thing occurred to me after noticing this -- I did not start with the 4 screws around the GPU die and started from the outside-in when I re-attached the block to the PCB. Is this likely the reason I have higher temps? 

If so, the good thing is that it should be an easy fix as I will only need to remove the backplate, loosen all the mounting screws underneath it, and then re-tighten them starting with the 4 around the GPU die area.


----------



## RiffageGalore

vf- said:


> These Heatkiller Blocks are sexy. Cannot wait to get it all connected. The EK Velocity looks like a toy compared to this.


 They look so nice. I have the all black acetal PRO version, but I've been eyeing the ones with nickel/metal look lately....


----------



## RiffageGalore

vf- said:


> Decided to go with the Acrylic block with the partial silver cover so I can see the condition of the fins.
> 
> This persons build was the deal breaker on the block for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Foreground Eclipse by alxz - Intel Core i7-8700K, GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, Lian Li PC-O6S HTPC - PCPartPicker
> 
> 
> Foreground Eclipse by alxz - Intel Core i7-8700K, GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, Lian Li PC-O6S HTPC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pcpartpicker.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something looks really sexy for the silver and acrylic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER IV Pro CPU Waterblock, Intel CPU, Acryl (5be894182e9c420a8d26f8f3ff4dd58e) - PCPartPicker
> 
> 
> Watercool HEATKILLER IV Pro CPU Waterblock, Intel CPU, Acryl (5be894182e9c420a8d26f8f3ff4dd58e)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pcpartpicker.com


Good choice -- there is actually very little performance difference between versions of this, even between the BASIC and PRO versions. The basic versions actually get better flow as they are less restrictive.


----------



## CluckyTaco

I'm looking to purchase an Intel CPU block and would someone clarify what the difference between these versions of the blocks mean? The prices are all similar so I'm not finding the actual difference in the website description other than "clear plexiglass".






Watercool Heatkiller IV high-end waterblock ACRYL Clean, 74,95 €


Watercool Heatkiller IV water blocks "Made in Germany" for current intel CPUs are among the most powerful water blocks that we ever created.




shop.watercool.de









Watercool Heatkiller IV high-end waterblock copper nickel, 74,95 €


Watercool Heatkiller IV water blocks "Made in Germany" for current intel CPUs are among the most powerful water blocks that we ever created.




shop.watercool.de









Watercool Heatkiller IV high-end waterblock copper nickel, 74,95 €


Watercool Heatkiller IV water blocks "Made in Germany" for current intel CPUs are among the most powerful water blocks that we ever created.




shop.watercool.de





My CPU is an 11900k and my plan is to direct die.


----------



## vf-

This block absolutely oozes style. What a job it is working with matte piping. Had to use masking tape so it wouldn't scratch from fitting tests, as it scratches so easily. Worse than clear acrylic.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Anyone holding off on a GPU upgrade until the RTX 4000 series comes out, but is also wondering whether Watercool will release blocks for this upcoming series earlier rather than later in its release? Anyone hear anything about Watercool's plans for the 40xx series cards?

I'm waiting for the 40xx series to upgrade, but I am a fan of Heatkiller blocks. So I won't be buying a 40xx card until I know more about what kind of Heatkiller blocks we will have for them.


----------



## broodro0ster

I don't know, but if history repeats...
I love Watercool products and I skipped my 3080 XC3 reservation because it wasn't sure what Watercool was going to support at the time. A few months later the block was finally there, but by then it was impossible to get the card again here in Belgium. Unless you wanted to pay 2300euro for a 800euro card.

So for next gen I will go again with an EK block I suppose. EK is fine, but Watercool looks nicer and performs better... I just cannot wait until after a year of the release of a new gen. By then the following generation is only a year away.


----------



## RiffageGalore

broodro0ster said:


> I don't know, but if history repeats...
> I love Watercool products and I skipped my 3080 XC3 reservation because it wasn't sure what Watercool was going to support at the time. A few months later the block was finally there, but by then it was impossible to get the card again here in Belgium. Unless you wanted to pay 2300euro for a 800euro card.
> 
> So for next gen I will go again with an EK block I suppose. EK is fine, but Watercool looks nicer and performs better... I just cannot wait until after a year of the release of a new gen. By then the following generation is only a year away.


Yeah, that's my thinking as well. This time around, with the crypto bubble popped, we probably won't have that price gouging issue though. I do hope that Watercool somehow gets the schematics for some of these cards quickly, decides which manufacturers to make them for quickly, and produces a block within 6 months of the release.


----------



## Section31

broodro0ster said:


> I don't know, but if history repeats...
> I love Watercool products and I skipped my 3080 XC3 reservation because it wasn't sure what Watercool was going to support at the time. A few months later the block was finally there, but by then it was impossible to get the card again here in Belgium. Unless you wanted to pay 2300euro for a 800euro card.
> 
> So for next gen I will go again with an EK block I suppose. EK is fine, but Watercool looks nicer and performs better... I just cannot wait until after a year of the release of a new gen. By then the following generation is only a year away.


I really wonder what the R&D plans are now myself. I spoke to someone who talked with the owner couple months ago and they are uncertain too. Apparently alphacool product launches has taken an chunk out of demand. It feels like the rush of new products the last two-three years will be slowing down a lot. It was fun having new products to try.


----------



## paskowitz

@Watercool-Daniel 



 well... looks like it's Asus (and reference, maybe FE) going forward.


----------



## tiggerlator

RiffageGalore said:


> Good choice -- there is actually very little performance difference between versions of this, even between the BASIC and PRO versions. The basic versions actually get better flow as they are less restrictive.


I'm using the basic, still better than the EK i was using. wanted acrylic so i can see if the fins need cleaning.


----------



## hemirunner426

12900k cooled by a Heatkiller IV Acetal basic. Very pleased with its performance.


----------



## vf-

hemirunner426 said:


> 12900k cooled by a Heatkiller IV Acetal basic. Very pleased with its performance.


What temperatures is it producing?


----------



## djwarreng

Now that the NVIDIA 4000 series is upon us, I wonder how long it will take to get a waterblock this time around from watercool


----------



## paskowitz

Ideally... FE, reference, Strix. Small, medium, large. Simple. 

If reference and FE are the same or very close, that would be ideal. Then you would honestly only need 2 blocks. 

I think the real problem could be different PCBs for the 4080 12gb, 4080 16gb and 4090. That would suck.


----------



## hemirunner426

vf- said:


> What temperatures is it producing?


At a 5.1 all core OC it runs around 85C after 10 minutes of cinebench.

I did not use a backplate nor did I use a contact plate.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk


----------



## Section31

paskowitz said:


> Ideally... FE, reference, Strix. Small, medium, large. Simple.
> 
> If reference and FE are the same or very close, that would be ideal. Then you would honestly only need 2 blocks.
> 
> I think the real problem could be different PCBs for the 4080 12gb, 4080 16gb and 4090. That would suck.


Check the Hardwareluxx forum. Tentative is Strix and Founders (was ftw3). CPU V Block is coming too

Beitrag im Thema 'WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo'
WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


----------



## Section31

djwarreng said:


> Now that the NVIDIA 4000 series is upon us, I wonder how long it will take to get a waterblock this time around from watercool


Watercool best resource is its Hardwareluxx forum where rico/markus are.


----------



## RiffageGalore

Hey all -- can someone tell me if the Heatkiller V FTW3 3080/3090 waterblock is really THAT much larger than the Heatkiller V 3080/3090 Reference design waterblock? The size difference according to the listed dimensions appears to be huge. I want to get a 3080 Ti or 3090 FTW3 or a reference design, but I'm not sure I can fit a FTW3 block in my case if it is indeed that big (almost 295mm long, 150mm tall). That seems to be way bigger than it needs to be? THe reference block is only 230mm long and like 120mm tall.

Thanks


----------



## yzonker

RiffageGalore said:


> Hey all -- can someone tell me if the Heatkiller V FTW3 3080/3090 waterblock is really THAT much larger than the Heatkiller V 3080/3090 Reference design waterblock? The size difference according to the listed dimensions appears to be huge. I want to get a 3080 Ti or 3090 FTW3 or a reference design, but I'm not sure I can fit a FTW3 block in my case if it is indeed that big (almost 295mm long, 150mm tall). That seems to be way bigger than it needs to be? THe reference block is only 230mm long and like 120mm tall.
> 
> Thanks


Unfortunately the FTW3 PCB is as big as the air cooler that comes on it. I have both a reference 3090 and a 3080Ti FTW3. Both in blocks.


----------



## RiffageGalore

yzonker said:


> Unfortunately the FTW3 PCB is as big as the air cooler that comes on it. I have both a reference 3090 and a 3080Ti FTW3. Both in blocks.


Ah, so you have both! Then you would really know. I currently have an Heatkiller 2080 Ti reference block on my EVGA 2080 ti and will be upgrading. I was suprised to see the dimentions for the FTW3 is so much bigger than what I have. I have a Phanteks p500A case, but even with that case I would need to take off my rear mounted 140mm exhaust fan because the Heatkiller FTW3 block is so high/tall.

So I am assuming your reference 3090 block is a hell of a lot smaller than that FTW3?

My interest in the FTW3 surrounds the 450w bios, and slight advantage in FPS with high resolutions. The idea of being limited to 350w with a reference 3090 or 3080 ti bums me out, lol.


----------



## Alex132

Oh I guess I can join this club now. Just trying to future-proof my cooling set up.


----------



## sakete

Any news on blocks for the 4090? Does anyone know for which cards blocks will be built?


----------



## paskowitz

sakete said:


> Any news on blocks for the 4090? Does anyone know for which cards blocks will be built?


4090 FE and Strix is what has been announced at the moment. Watercool's FE block will have side terminals like the EK SE block for the 30#0 FEs.


----------



## vf-

What's the overclock.net straps?


----------



## sakete

Anyone know if the Strix block will also fit the TUF? I know that Optimus is building a block that will fit both the Strix and TUF as they have a very similar (or identical) board layout. Wondering if the Heatkiller will fit that as well.


----------



## Section31

sakete said:


> Any news on blocks for the 4090? Does anyone know for which cards blocks will be built?


follow the hardwarelux forum for watercool not ocn. Heatkiller cpu v is also releasing. Me and my friend are going founders with watercool this generation


----------



## Alex132

vf- said:


> What's the overclock.net straps?


Got that plus a hat and OCN Ducky keyboard from winning some OCN contest ages ago (when the site was still good).


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> follow the hardwarelux forum for watercool not ocn. Heatkiller cpu v is also releasing. Me and my friend are going founders with watercool this generation


I remember when you said you were skipping this gen!


----------



## sakete

Section31 said:


> follow the hardwarelux forum for watercool not ocn. Heatkiller cpu v is also releasing. Me and my friend are going founders with watercool this generation


Well, I don't need a new block for my CPU, still on AMD AM4 (5950X), the Optimus Foundation block is just fine for that.


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I remember when you said you were skipping this gen!


 Its close enough to 4k120 im going for it.


----------



## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Its close enough to 4k120 im going for it.


I'm so tempted but I have a wedding to pay for and house renovation stuff.. just can't justify it. I could do it and be fine but .. meh. I will wait for 5000 series, or 4090TI


----------



## Section31

acoustic said:


> I'm so tempted but I have a wedding to pay for and house renovation stuff.. just can't justify it. I could do it and be fine but .. meh. I will wait for 5000 series, or 4090TI


Very common. Everything is an thought process on how to carefully spend our dollars now.


----------



## dwolvin

It's called 'Adulting' and it's stupid and I hate it.


----------



## vf-

Section31 said:


> follow the hardwarelux forum for watercool not ocn. Heatkiller cpu v is also releasing. Me and my friend are going founders with watercool this generation


Interesting. Heatkiller V CPU blocks. I don't see information or pictures on that?


----------



## Section31

vf- said:


> Interesting. Heatkiller V CPU blocks. I don't see information or pictures on that?


No pictures just talk on it. Rico is Watercool Boss and Markus is the sales rep.


----------



## Chiraq

Anyone using HK IV Pro block on AM5 yet? I have it on AM4 and the part number 18012 says it will fit AM5 but the mounting holes arent identical between AM4 and AM5.


----------



## EniGma1987

Any info on what AMD 7000 series GPUs other than reference will be supported? Strix probably?


----------



## Shoggoth

Chiraq said:


> Anyone using HK IV Pro block on AM5 yet? I have it on AM4 and the part number 18012 says it will fit AM5 but the mounting holes arent identical between AM4 and AM5.



HK IV Pro works perfectly here, with a 7700X on an MSI X670E Carbon WiFi. Great temps too.


----------



## originxt

Unsure if posted before, but an early version render of the 4090 FE cooler. Noted to have terminals on the opposite side as well. Makes sense in terms of the placement since it's so tall now compared to it's length. Shouldn't pose a problem with most builds I would think. Now just a race between this and Optimus on which I buy lol.


----------



## Alex132

originxt said:


> View attachment 2581164
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure if posted before, but an early version render of the 4090 FE cooler. Noted to have terminals on the opposite side as well. Makes sense in terms of the placement since it's so tall now compared to it's length. Shouldn't pose a problem with most builds I would think. Now just a race between this and Optimus on which I buy lol.


Hope there's also in/out on the bottom too.


----------



## originxt

Alex132 said:


> Hope there's also in/out on the bottom too.


Yep there is. Like I said, terminals on the opposite side as well.


----------



## Section31

EniGma1987 said:


> Any info on what AMD 7000 series GPUs other than reference will be supported? Strix probably?


Ask on hardwareluxx side, best chance to get responses. Some of us have accounts there and they do respond to english posts


----------



## paskowitz

originxt said:


> View attachment 2581164
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure if posted before, but an early version render of the 4090 FE cooler. Noted to have terminals on the opposite side as well. Makes sense in terms of the placement since it's so tall now compared to it's length. Shouldn't pose a problem with most builds I would think. Now just a race between this and Optimus on which I buy lol.


It appears like Optimus will actually have a block (Strix/TUF) out before Watercool, but I would assume Watercool's FE block will be out before Optimus's FE block. 

For me though, I'll wait for Watercool. The right side ports are too appealing, especially if one is tight on space. Proportionally it looks better as well.


----------



## Alex132

originxt said:


> Yep there is. Like I said, terminals on the opposite side as well.


I'm impressed at how I somehow read what you posted and didn't read it at the same time lol. Regardless, liking this compact block designs that are coming from the shorter cards.


----------



## originxt

Didn't realize how much I wanted a block until the fans for the 4090 fe ramped to 1.9-2k rpm on auto holding 70c, even at 80% PL. Mid-end November block sales, I'm ready lol.

Also, plan to get a small external 360-480 thicker rad outside my case with 3-4 A12x25s at around 1k-1.2k rpm. How does heat killer rad L series compare to something like a gtx 360/480? How clean are the rads? Currently run 3x360s with 2 pumps in a distroplate but may add a 3rd pump as I feel there is too much restriction.


----------



## acoustic

I love my 2x 360-L. I ordered a 480-L yesterday as I'm planning on grabbing the V3000+ next month.

Still recommend cleaning them, but they're extremely high performance with minimal restriction. IMO, best rads on the market right now.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Didn't realize how much I wanted a block until the fans for the 4090 fe ramped to 1.9-2k rpm on auto holding 70c, even at 80% PL. Mid-end November block sales, I'm ready lol.
> 
> Also, plan to get a small external 360-480 thicker rad outside my case with 3-4 A12x25s at around 1k-1.2k rpm. How does heat killer rad L series compare to something like a gtx 360/480? How clean are the rads? Currently run 3x360s with 2 pumps in a distroplate but may add a 3rd pump as I feel there is too much restriction.
> 
> View attachment 2584448


Techpowerup vsg review is best answer. His rad reviews are most up to date.


----------



## chibi

Should I blitz my Mora 420 before first usage? Or is it solder/flux free build?


----------



## acoustic

chibi said:


> Should I blitz my Mora 420 before first usage? Or is it solder/flux free build?


Always clean it.


----------



## chibi

Man not really feeling like doing a long arse flush again, but it'll have to do I guess.


----------



## Barefooter

chibi said:


> Man not really feeling like doing a long arse flush again, but it'll have to do I guess.


No short cuts @chibi


----------



## Section31

chibi said:


> Man not really feeling like doing a long arse flush again, but it'll have to do I guess.


Do the same method as your watercool rads


----------



## originxt

Section31 said:


> Techpowerup vsg review is best answer. His rad reviews are most up to date.


Read the review for the 360-L, I really like his test setup with the 780ti. Performance is chart topping at the rpms I'm hoping to hold which is pretty nice but it all kind of looks like margin of error near the top. Also like how the radiators look which is good since I plan to use it externally. Probably place an order for the 480 stainless and put some nice brown noctua fans on it.


----------



## Section31

originxt said:


> Read the review for the 360-L, I really like his test setup with the 780ti. Performance is chart topping at the rpms I'm hoping to hold which is pretty nice but it all kind of looks like margin of error near the top. Also like how the radiators look which is good since I plan to use it externally. Probably place an order for the 480 stainless and put some nice brown noctua fans on it.


it is. Radiatior tech hasn’t improved just flow restrictions coming down.


----------



## Alex132

chibi said:


> Should I blitz my Mora 420 before first usage? Or is it solder/flux free build?


I just poured distilled water in it, shook it around, repeated that twice and that was that. Even after the first flush I don't think anything came out. The way in which they're made compared to traditional radiators should result in a lot less gunk/flux/paint/etc. inside of it.


----------



## ChaosAD

Any plans for 140mm S-L rads? I can only see 120mm available.


----------



## CosmicKet

Good Morning,

Would anyone know the proper way to disassemble a Heatkiller FTW3 water block so that I may scrub the nickel-plate for cleaning?

Here's what I have:
HEATKILLER V FOR RTX 3080/3090 EVGA FTW3 - ACRYL NI-BL ARGB (15660)

HEATKILLER V EBC - ACTIVE BACKPLATE FOR RTX 3080/3090 EVGA FTW3 - NI BLACK ARGB (16080)

I followed the instructions on their manual but this is as far as I got last night and honestly I'm stumped as to where to go from here.

I've attempted to pull the active backplate apart; however, it feels as if the thermal pads are really glued down to the block itself. How would I go about removing this properly as it feel as if I'm just yanking on the gpu board right now? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.


----------



## Section31

ChaosAD said:


> Any plans for 140mm S-L rads? I can only see 120mm available.


Go pose these sort of questions on hardwareluxx german forum. The rep hasn’t responded here for while but rico/markus are active there.









WATERCOOL --> Produktinfo


In diesem Thread möchten wir neue Produkte und Weiterentwicklungen vorstellen, Meinungen einholen und in den direkten Kontakt mit Euch treten. Anregungen und Wünsche, aber auch Kritik sind hier gerne gesehen. Unser Ansporn ist es, die Produkte von Watercool immer besser zu machen. Das geht nur...




www.hardwareluxx.de


----------



## Jashin

CosmicKet said:


> Good Morning,
> 
> Would anyone know the proper way to disassemble a Heatkiller FTW3 water block so that I may scrub the nickel-plate for cleaning?
> 
> Here's what I have:
> HEATKILLER V FOR RTX 3080/3090 EVGA FTW3 - ACRYL NI-BL ARGB (15660)
> 
> HEATKILLER V EBC - ACTIVE BACKPLATE FOR RTX 3080/3090 EVGA FTW3 - NI BLACK ARGB (16080)
> 
> I followed the instructions on their manual but this is as far as I got last night and honestly I'm stumped as to where to go from here.
> 
> I've attempted to pull the active backplate apart; however, it feels as if the thermal pads are really glued down to the block itself. How would I go about removing this properly as it feel as if I'm just yanking on the gpu board right now? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thank you.


Yea there are few hidden screws on the waterblock.


Actually it's shown pretty good in the manual https://shop.watercool.de/mediafiles/Manuals/MA_HK_V_VGA_RTX_30_Series_EVGA_FTW3_A5_Druck.pdf section 4:

What you need to do is remove 4 screws first:

Two near inlet and outlet out the card and 2 "screwalike" pins using small torx if I recall correctly. This will allow you to get to the real screws holding the Acrylic Glass and Card together. If I recall correctly you will also have to remove entire block from GPU to unscrew 3 screws from the bottom of the block holding the FTW 3080 plate which hides additional screws holding acrylic glass. When unscrewing acrylic screws it is good idea to draw block alike layout on a card of paper and mark screw holes to assure that you won't confuse the screws lengths. Than simply lift the acrylic glass and you have access to everything.

Side note: If I recall correctly the card fins are protected by unremovable jet plate out of plexi glass so it's kind of hard to clean them up (I've personally used compressed air).


----------



## Mainstream

Anyone having issues with heatkiller iv hitting 100 degrees on 13900k? GPU block is working flawlessly though at below 30 degrees idle for EVGA FTW3 and below 60 for timespy


----------



## ciarlatano

Mainstream said:


> Anyone having issues with heatkiller iv hitting 100 degrees on 13900k? GPU block is working flawlessly though at below 30 degrees idle for EVGA FTW3 and below 60 for timespy


First reaction is "sounds like a bad mount".


----------



## Mainstream

ciarlatano said:


> First reaction is "sounds like a bad mount".


Used the frame + remounted . First attempt was to thin/bad spread in the middle . At 5600 all p core + 4400 Ecore hitting 100 . 3x 360 rads +D5 pump


----------



## Jashin

Mainstream said:


> Used the frame + remounted . First attempt was to thin/bad spread in the middle . At 5600 all p core + 4400 Ecore hitting 100 . 3x 360 rads +D5 pump


I see only two options either the mount is still somehow bad and you are not getting proper contact or you have somehow no flow through the block. Are you sure inlet and outlet sockets were properly connected (not the other way around?). Do you any kind of flow sensor? If not you can try touching the block on workload [Possible burn warning] the block shouldn't be "burning hot". If it is than most likely you have no flow through it. How long it took you to assemble the loop? Have you rinsed the parts before mount (I am asking cuz maybe your fins in the block got blocked by all the garbage from loop assembly). Garbage/dust is capable of fully blocking the flow in your loop if it accumulates on CPU Block fins (most restrictive place in the loop).


----------



## Mainstream

Jashin said:


> I see only two options either the mount is still somehow bad and you are not getting proper contact or you have somehow no flow through the block. Are you sure inlet and outlet sockets were properly connected (not the other way around?). Do you any kind of flow sensor? If not you can try touching the block on workload [Possible burn warning] the block shouldn't be "burning hot". If it is than most likely you have no flow through it. How long it took you to assemble the loop? Have you rinsed the parts before mount (I am asking cuz maybe your fins in the block got blocked by all the garbage from loop assembly). Garbage/dust is capable of fully blocking the flow in your loop if it accumulates on CPU Block fins (most restrictive place in the loop).


Loop I know is good because GPU is below 60 degrees full underload so that removes the idea of fluid flow/fluid temp are bad. I did flush my loop 3 times due to acrylic debris so think its possible fins are clogged ?Idle temps are low 30s. Obviously I could have over tightened the block creating another uneven spread again however hard to believe that .

Or this could just be usual on 13900ks overclocked . Im use to AMD temps which rarely hit this high . Screen shot is max temp after running R23 once.


----------



## Jashin

Mainstream said:


> Loop I know is good because GPU is below 60 degrees full underload so that removes the idea of fluid flow/fluid temp are bad. I did flush my loop 3 times due to acrylic debris so think its possible fins are clogged ?Idle temps are low 30s. Obviously I could have over tightened the block creating another uneven spread again however hard to believe that .
> 
> Or this could just be usual on 13900ks overclocked . Im use to AMD temps which rarely hit this high . Screen shot is max temp after running R23 once.
> 
> View attachment 2585446


About overtightened highly doubt it. If mount system is using sprints similar to the version IV it's impossible. Before anything else are you running your CPU serial or parallel in your loop?

What about your Processor IHS? Some time ago there was a lot of talk about Intel LGA1700 mount problem (coolers not making proper contact with the CPU due to design flaw) - and CPU IHS being bent by the mount.





 - Gamers Nexus Video about topic. - there is a chance that your motherboard loading mechanism is "flawed" unless intel somehow fixed the issue for the 13th gen. If your processor is getting uneven pressure from the socket it would result in uneven contact with the cooler/block leading to subpar transfer. 87 Degrees is "acceptable under prime95 full load" 100 is not.






*EDIT:


https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/yagkcy
 - maybe it's not so abnormal after all. *


----------



## Mainstream

Jashin said:


> About overtightened highly doubt it. If mount system is using sprints similar to the version IV it's impossible. Before anything else are you running your CPU serial or parallel in your loop?
> 
> What about your Processor IHS? Some time ago there was a lot of talk about Intel LGA1700 mount problem (coolers not making proper contact with the CPU due to design flaw) - and CPU IHS being bent by the mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Gamers Nexus Video about topic. - there is a chance that your motherboard loading mechanism is "flawed" unless intel somehow fixed the issue for the 13th gen. If your processor is getting uneven pressure from the socket it would result in uneven contact with the cooler/block leading to subpar transfer. 87 Degrees is "acceptable under prime95 full load" 100 is not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:
> 
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/yagkcy
> - maybe it's not so abnormal after all. *



Correct that error is a thing, however, i used the LGA1700 frame to prevent that error from occurring so the is flush with the ihs . The loop is in serial to the EK front distro and not in parallel 
Will double check that reddit post now , seems people got worse performance than myself but better to run through all errors . Thanks , just trying to eliminate all possible bottle necks . With the price I paid for this loop should atleast be a little more efficient.


----------



## Jashin

Mainstream said:


> Correct that error is a thing, however, i used the LGA1700 frame to prevent that error from occurring so the is flush with the ihs . The loop is in serial to the EK front distro and not in parallel
> Will double check that reddit post now , seems people got worse performance than myself but better to run through all errors . Thanks , just trying to eliminate all possible bottle necks . With the price I paid for this loop should atleast be a little more efficient.


" loop should atleast be a little more efficient." It may not be the fault of your loop. What's leaning towards mount/contact issue is the fact that only cores 1-8 seem to be getting higher temps. I don't know what intel is using to connect processor to IHS right now but maybe the fault is in processor itself not the loop. 3x360 should handle this and GPU without a sweat. That means it's unlikely for the problem to be "not sufficient thermal performance of the loop" cuz you could most likely add GTX 4090 there and still be ok. Unfortunately you don't have temp sensors in your loop so we can't get the coolant delta however given all the data we have:

Either: You've got a ****ty unit of 13900k resulting in to high temps on on CCD from your bench only cores 1-8 seems to affected. It's either ****ty silicon or maybe the IHS/processor connection within the processor unit is of bad quality. It doesn't matter how good the loop and the block is if the heat isn't getting properly transferred to IHS first. 
Or: There is still some kind of mount contact problem between block on processor.(One side not fully making contact). 

But you won't be able to test it without another 13900K or some really good air cooler.


----------



## bscool

Mainstream said:


> Used the frame + remounted . First attempt was to thin/bad spread in the middle . At 5600 all p core + 4400 Ecore hitting 100 . 3x 360 rads +D5 pump


Are you using the new mounting springs/hardware for lga1700? I have AIO on 13900k and get better temps than your getting. I also have an old Raystorm block and get better temps. But I needed to add washers to increase mounting pressure on the Raystorm. Using the washers dropped temps 15c.

lga1700 is 1mm lower than lga1200 so it needs different springs on the HK or add washers if using the older lga1200 springs/mounts.

I hit 90c+ running y cruncher using Arctic 420 AIO which is a bit hotter than running r23









bscool`s y-cruncher - Pi-2.5b score: 47sec 553ms with a Core i9 13900K


The Core i9 13900K @ 5600MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the y-cruncher - Pi-2.5b benchmark. bscoolranks #10 worldwide and #9 in the hardware class. Find out more at HWBOT.




hwbot.org





Edit also if using Auto voltages it will give more voltage then you need in many cases and raise temps. Also check your cooler score and it should be in the 170 to 180+ range(in bios) if you have a good mount.


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## Mainstream

bscool said:


> Are you using the new mounting springs/hardware for lga1700? I have AIO on 13900k and get better temps than your getting. I also have an old Raystorm block and get better temps. But I needed to add washers to increase mounting pressure on the Raystorm. Using the washers dropped temps 15c.
> 
> lga1700 is 1mm lower than lga1200 so it needs different springs on the HK or add washers if using the older lga1200 springs/mounts.
> 
> I hit 90c+ running y cruncher using Arctic 420 AIO which is a bit hotter than running r23
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bscool`s y-cruncher - Pi-2.5b score: 47sec 553ms with a Core i9 13900K
> 
> 
> The Core i9 13900K @ 5600MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the y-cruncher - Pi-2.5b benchmark. bscoolranks #10 worldwide and #9 in the hardware class. Find out more at HWBOT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hwbot.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit also if using Auto voltages it will give more voltage then you need in many cases and raise temps. Also check your cooler score and it should be in the 170 to 180+ range(in bios) if you have a good mount.


Currently using the LGA 1700 contract frame as well as the springs/metal washers that came with the cpu block . Checking voltages now, however on the asus z790 strix E gaming boards no real Vcore in the bios unless im blind .


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## bscool

Mainstream said:


> Currently using the LGA 1700 contract frame as well as the springs/metal washers that came with the cpu block . Checking voltages now, however on the asus z790 strix E gaming boards no real Vcore in the bios unless im blind .


If they are the older springs/washer that came with the block from a year ago or more they are probably not the newer springs that apply more pressure. If you bought the block recently they should be the lga1700 springs.

"Due to the newly developed, larger socket, slight adjustments to our HEATKILLER IV mounting kit were necessary. We used all technical data available in order to produce the new mounting kit for the Alder Lake processors. Especially in the area of contact pressure, a lot has changed. For this, we again relied on our proven Easy Mount system in order to comply with the manufacturer’s specifications. A quick check in our lab showed that our existing mounting kit also makes a flawless mounting possible for the time being. However, this does not achieve the maximum contact pressure and sacrifices some performance.

Just in time for the INTEL release, you can buy a conversion kit for the LGA1700 socket in our store "









Intel Alder Lake Mounting-Kit for HEATKILLER IV CPU-Cooler - Watercool


The matching WATERCOOL HEATKILLER IV conversion kits for the latest Intel Alder Lake generation, are available in our store from Thursday.




watercool.de





They use to sell the lga 1700 springs/washer kit Watercool HEATKILLER IV Upgrade Kit for Intel LGA 1700

Also if not using a backplate on the HK site they say

"INTEL LGA-1700 (For optimal performance, we recommend the backplate with part number: 10014. )"






Conversion Kit HEATKILLER® IV for INTEL processors, 19,95 €


Hochwertiges Umrüstkit für unsere Heatkiller IV Prozessorkühler. Passend für alle aktuellen Intel Prozessoren.




shop.watercool.de










HEATKILLER IV Backplate INTEL 1700, 9,95 €


Backplate zur idealen Lastverteilung für Intel Mainstream Prozessoren. Maximiert die optimale Leistung des Heatkiller IV Wasserkühlers.




shop.watercool.de





I would try adding a 1mm washer to increase mounting pressure and if temps drop 10-15c plus like they did for me you know what the issue is.


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## ciarlatano

Mainstream said:


> Currently using the LGA 1700 contract frame as well as the springs/metal washers that came with the cpu block . Checking voltages now, however on the asus z790 strix E gaming boards no real Vcore in the bios unless im blind .


No LGA 1700 backplate?


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## Mainstream

ciarlatano said:


> No LGA 1700 backplate?


Sorry forgot to include that since most mbs come with a backplate but I installed the heavy-duty one with the cpu block


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## cletus-cassidy

I ordered the Intel Conversion Kit which apparently replaces the LGA 1700 upgrade kit. It didn't come with current instructions (and the instructions I have found online do not mention LGA 1700). Can anyone advise how to setup for LGA 1700? Assuming I do the same setup as LGA 1151/1200, but the new screws will make it work properly with LGA 1700?


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## ESRCJ

What are good replacement washers for the black plastic ones included with the HK IV Pro? These are the ones for installing on mainstream Intel platforms that go below the metal stands.


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## Section31

For those who need to contact watercool, please email them going forward. The hardwareluxx forum is good as gone for now. Here just inactive.


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## acoustic

Section31 said:


> For those who need to contact watercool, please email them going forward. The hardwareluxx forum is good as gone for now. Here just inactive.


What happened to luxx??


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## Section31

acoustic said:


> What happened to luxx??


Closed down thread by request of watercool


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## acoustic

Section31 said:


> Closed down thread by request of watercool


Hmph.. did they state why? That's strange. I hope they're not going under


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## RichKnecht

Mainstream said:


> Anyone having issues with heatkiller iv hitting 100 degrees on 13900k? GPU block is working flawlessly though at below 30 degrees idle for EVGA FTW3 and below 60 for timespy


I feel your pain. I am using an Optimus Sig V2 with 3 360s and 2 D5s in a CPU only loop and my temps on the P cores are 90-93C. Also, the spread between cores is up to 15C. This loop previously cooled a 10980XE running at 4.8 all core. I am using a backplate, contact frame, and kryonaut paste. Tried remounting 3 times with the same results. Going to take the loop apart and make sure the frame isnt cranked down too tight. I may also remove it and reinstall the OEM bracket using the “washer mod” to see what happens. I have an old EK Supremacy Evo sitting here as well as an Optimus Foundation block I can try. I also have a HK IV in my Amazon cart. It has me puzzled indeed.


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## vf-

Mainstream said:


> Anyone having issues with heatkiller iv hitting 100 degrees on 13900k? GPU block is working flawlessly though at below 30 degrees idle for EVGA FTW3 and below 60 for timespy


I assume your FTW3 is a 3090?


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## Section31

acoustic said:


> Hmph.. did they state why? That's strange. I hope they're not going under


Didn’t say but its probably nothing to worry about


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## Barefooter

Section31 said:


> For those who need to contact watercool, please email them going forward. The hardwareluxx forum is good as gone for now. Here just inactive.


That's too bad. The last rep I think it was Jakob was very responsive on this thread for quite some time.


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## Section31

Barefooter said:


> That's too bad. The last rep I think it was Jakob was very responsive on this thread for quite some time.


Jakob no longer around but Markus is the watercool guy on email. Very helpful and responsive too.


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## superino091

I noticed that the wareblock bottom touches the ram, do you think it could cause some kind of instability over time?
the system is very stable


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## chibi

4090 FE and Strix now listed as coming soon in Watercool shop.


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## dwolvin

superino091 said:


> I noticed that the wareblock bottom touches the ram, do you think it could cause some kind of instability over time?
> the system is very stable


I can't say for sure (since I'm not there), but it it's just touching (no pressure) it should be fine.


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## cennis

chibi said:


> 4090 FE and Strix now listed as coming soon in Watercool shop.


Got me excited for a sec. 
The listing was up as "coming soon" since 11/08/2022 or before, are you referring to something different?


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## chibi

Yikes, didn't know it was up for that long. I was just browsing their shop recently and happen to see it.


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## nyk20z3

After many water cooled builds over the years i finally decided to go external. I was debating a Lian LI V3000 Plus because i have enough gear to fill it up but going back n fourth the MO-RA 420 made more sense. Max performance, the aesthetics i am seeking, less overall components to break down from inside the case, i think its a win/win situation. I always wanted an excuse to work with Heat Killer products and this was the ultimate reason to do so, i am very picky and have a passion working with higher end PC components. The plan is to use EK ZMT tubing and Koolance QD4 fittings to connect the loop to the PC, i might do another set of Noctua NF-A20's on the back in push/pull but that's still up for debate.


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## chibi

^double check your mora fan grill. The NF-A20 fans require the "High" grill in order for clearance. If you have the standard grill, it will only fit 25mm fans. The 200mm fans are a bit thicker at 30mm.


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## nyk20z3

chibi said:


> ^double check your mora fan grill. The NF-A20 fans require the "High" grill in order for clearance. If you have the standard grill, it will only fit 25mm fans. The 200mm fans are a bit thicker at 30mm.


Honestly I had no idea they where thicker, I did go with the non high so I will have to contact them to change it.


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## nyk20z3

Been doing some digging and found these, going to run 2 for both D5 pumps. I will just have them on a switched outlet so I can turn them on and off with the pc. The tach cables and single pwm cable for the 4 Noctua fans I will need I can run through a PCI pass through grommet.


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## originxt

HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 - FOUNDERS EDITION ACRYL Ni aRGB, 225,95 €


Our new HEATKILLER V PRO graphics card cooler for Nvidia's RTX 4090 Founders Edition has been especially designed to cope with the high power dissipation of




shop.watercool.de










HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 FOUNDERS EDITION - Acryl Ni-Bl aRGB, 225,95 €


Our new HEATKILLER V PRO graphics card cooler for Nvidia's RTX 4090 Founders Edition has been especially designed to cope with the high power dissipation of




shop.watercool.de





Pre-orders for FE up!


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## Section31

originxt said:


> HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 - FOUNDERS EDITION ACRYL Ni aRGB, 225,95 €
> 
> 
> Our new HEATKILLER V PRO graphics card cooler for Nvidia's RTX 4090 Founders Edition has been especially designed to cope with the high power dissipation of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 FOUNDERS EDITION - Acryl Ni-Bl aRGB, 225,95 €
> 
> 
> Our new HEATKILLER V PRO graphics card cooler for Nvidia's RTX 4090 Founders Edition has been especially designed to cope with the high power dissipation of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shop.watercool.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pre-orders for FE up!


I think watercool is the direction to go this time. Very good prices compared to Optimus and you don’t lose much performance (maybe none at all).


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## originxt

Section31 said:


> I think watercool is the direction to go this time. Very good prices compared to Optimus and you don’t lose much performance (maybe none at all).


I agree. Ordered the standard with black aluminum. With the fittings on the side and redesigned block, I don't think I'll have any complaints since I can close my damn case with no issue. Plus it'll be the only piece of equipment in my computer with RGB .... But probably turned off LOL.

In seriousness, I doubt there will be a measurable, if any, difference in performance between this and Optimus. I've never had issues with watercool quality either. Pretty excited for the launch, even if it's in the middle of audit busy season.


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## chibi

The RGB if it's like their other blocks, is a removeable strip. Previous blocks I've always left the rgb strip out.


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## Fluxmaven

As I get into HWBOT I figured it would be good to have nice blocks for all the common platforms so it's quicker to swap things around.

Bought a new 2011 narrow heatkiller iv pro for $38 on clearance from titanrig. Bought a used hkiv basic for $30 on eBay. Intel backplate and am4 conversion from PPCS for another $30.

So it ended up being a bit cheaper than just buying lga 1x00 and am4 blocks. Plus I have the 2011 mount if I ever pick up one of those platforms.


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## dwolvin

Wow- those are amazing prices!


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## Fluxmaven

dwolvin said:


> Wow- those are amazing prices!


I like looking for deals lol. I was actually in the market for a TechN AMD block and got in a bit of a bidding war with someone on eBay. Once it got too high I gave up and ordered the HKIV AM4 conversion. Then the person I bid against had all their bids cancelled and I ended up getting the TechN block for $50 shipped.


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## dwolvin

Nice! I have a cheap Chinese one that I grabbed because I needed it quickly, but have not stumbled on something better like that. I gave myself a limit since let's face it- even a heatkiller isn't likely to reduce more than a few degrees on a mild overclock.


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## Fluxmaven

When I got the HKIV from Titanrig I also picked up an RTX 2080 block on clearance for $47. I actually really wanted a HK block when I first got the card but got impatient and went with a cheap Chinese Barrow block. I've had zero issues with the Barrow but I'm about to repurpose the 2080 and figure might as well toss a fresh block on.


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## nyk20z3

Is Heat Killer customer service normally slow ?. I sent en email over a week ago about fixing an order with the wrong 420 cover. Just don’t want to see it shipped and never heard anything 😕


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## acoustic

nyk20z3 said:


> Is Heat Killer customer service normally slow ?. I sent en email over a week ago about fixing an order with the wrong 420 cover. Just don’t want to see it shipped and never heard anything 😕


they closed on Dec24 for the holiday. Won’t be open until Jan, I believe. They sent out emails and it’s posted on their website.

im surprised they didn’t get back to you before the break, but they were likely swamped. They pushed a lot of orders out the door before their holiday break. I made s decent sized order on Dec23 and they got it out before they closed up.


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## anr11

They are currently closed for the holidays. You'll likely hear something from the first week of January.


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## nyk20z3

Yes I had noticed after I was just trying to avoid the headache of potentially shipping a cover back that didn’t fit. And honestly after I realized the 1200rpm AF-A20 is exclusive to Heat Killer I would have to place another order anyway. If I could correct the issue i have now and add those to my existing order then that would be sweet.


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## acoustic

nyk20z3 said:


> Yes I had noticed after I was just trying to avoid the headache of potentially shipping a cover back that didn’t fit. And honestly after I realized the 1200rpm AF-A20 is exclusive to Heat Killer I would have to place another order anyway. If I could correct the issue i have now and add those to my existing order then that would be sweet.


I'm sure they'll get back to you ASAP once they open. Heatkiller's support has always been very good; I had a few questions when I was building my first custom-loop and Markus was extremely helpful.


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## nyk20z3

acoustic said:


> I'm sure they'll get back to you ASAP once they open. Heatkiller's support has always been very good; I had a few questions when I was building my first custom-loop and Markus was extremely helpful.


Markus got back to me today and was very helpful, unfortunately for me to add the 1200rpm A20's i would have to cancel the order and start over. He was able to swap the classic grill for a high so that was very helpful. Very good customer service from them . Should ship tomorrow, i will update the thread when i can.


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## acoustic

nyk20z3 said:


> Markus got back to me today and was very helpful, unfortunately for me to add the 1200rpm A20's i would have to cancel the order and start over. He was able to swap the classic grill for a high so that was very helpful. Very good customer service from them . Should ship tomorrow, i will update the thread when i can.


Glad you were able to get in touch with them. Markus is awesome!


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## chibi

Markus is one of the best vendor reps we can get for this hobby. Dealt with him plenty of times and he's always on top of things and accommodating.


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## DeXel

I was impressed with Heatkiller 3080 XC3 block last year, so figured time to swap to Watercool parts for Lian Li V3000 Plus build  (also Heatkiller 480L rad prices were really attractive at TitanRig).


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## nyk20z3

DeXel said:


> I was impressed with Heatkiller 3080 XC3 block last year, so figured time to swap to Watercool parts for Lian Li V3000 Plus build  (also Heatkiller 480L rad prices were really attractive at TitanRig).
> 
> View attachment 2592100


Massive bro, I was going to go the same route but chose to do a MORA 420 instead. Lots of PC porn in that thing.

Package came today and super fast, 2 days from Germany.


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## acoustic

Yeah I dunno what kind of crack Watercool is smoking, but their shipping has been absurdly quick! I made an order Dec23, and they managed to get it out of the door before closing up for the holidays. Got my package Dec 27, but it was in the US by Dec25, just stuck due to Christmas.

They're killing it!


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## This is a hat.

I had a peak of around 400 watts but I get jealous when I see MORA users. In the middle of summer, I had to turn on the air conditioner when I played the game because I was afraid that the block would deform.


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## nyk20z3

Heavy 😆


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## chibi

Haha, I'm not the only weirdo that dons the nitril gloves when building my loop/rig!  

I'm going to show my wife your pic and tell her I'm not alone!


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## nyk20z3

Lmao no fingerprints. My wife thinks I am weird as well but I deal with so many water cooling components I don’t want to contaminate any surface and then cleaning finger prints or smudge later. I am also kinda OCD and just like to handle these type of things delicately. I did a little building last night with the MORA just to take a look!

I had a few questions for you guys though -

I don’t see clear instructions that dictate the in and out ports on the radiator so I can see exactly what my options are as far as configuration. Also I would like to know how many liters of coolant it holds ?. I am going to place an order with Koolance for fittings and fluid next.


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## chibi

In and Out can be any combination of the top and bottom sections of the mora. As long as you use one port from the top and bottom. Litres about 1.4 for the rad. Factoring in the res and short tube runs will be around 2 litres. Add in blocks and distance between pc and rad for a bit more.


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## acoustic

I'm surprised there aren't _preferred_ In/Out ports, though. The D5 Top manual says you can use any combination of the 2 In/2 Out ports, but In1/Out1 are preferred for optimal flow. Nice pics btw!

Picked up a LGA1700 HEAVY backplate as I needed to spend a few bucks extra for some free shipping anyway. Already had the original LGA1700 Backplate. Really like how the Thermalright contact frame screws into the backplate now. Temps actually seem even better with my 13900K. I’d say a ~2-3c drop on my chip.

Once again, Watercool remains my favorite company


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## nyk20z3

Placed an order with PPCS for a few things, it’s become increasingly harder to find a place with everything I need in stock so it will just be all over the place. I installed one D5 last night, I am going to custom sleeve the pump cables and remove the white label to replace it with some 3M carbon fiber sticker. The Carbon Black pipe will be used for the one hard run from the reservoir to the MORA.


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