# The Deathadder Megathread



## hella

The Unofficial Deathadder Megathread










Hell, it's about time. The Deathadder and the MX518 are arguably two of the most popular gaming mice on the planet. Surprisingly, there's no consolidated information on either of these mice and there's a lot of misinformation regarding them both on the internet. I've recently acquired a ton of knowledge regarding the Deathadder from building kinzuadders and I want to share the knowledge I learned with the community.

*Who this guide is for:* While the wording of this guide will be written towards prospective buyers this page will serve as consolidated Deathadder resource for those who own, are looking to buy, or are curious about the Deathadder and it's releases.

Additionally, please do not be afraid to share information. This is more or less an open source project and I'd love to integrate your feedback in this thread.

*Table of Contents*

*Releases*: The established variations of the Deathadder.
*Performance Characteristics*: Comparing and contrasting differences in lift-off distance and tracking in different variations of the Deathadder.
*Build Quality*: Analyzing material differences and their real-world applications among Deathadder releases.
*Conclusion*: For those set on buying a Deathadder: Which variation should I buy?

<a></a>
*Releases*

*First-Generation PCB*
Deathadder *3G V1*

Sensor: Avago S3688
Never publicly released
These were debuted at CPL 2007 and had many problems. The mouse was never sold and the released CPL edition Deathadder is a Deathadder 3G V2
Deathadder *3G V2*

Sensor: Avago S3688
1st Retail Variation
1800 DPI
Shell will not accept Deathadder 3G V3 / 3.5G.
*Second-Generation PCB*
Deathadder *3G V3*

Sensor: Avago S3688
2nd retail revision. Includes the Mac edition and Voodoo edition.
1800 DPI
Internal shell identical to the 3.5G. The 3G V3's internals can be swapped into a Black Edition shell.
Deathadder *3.5G*

Sensor: S3888
The Deathadder 3.5G includes ANY version with the S3888 sensor, most notably the standard Deathadder 3.5G and the Deathadder Black Edition
3500 DPI
Internal shell identical to the 3G V3
Yep, that's right, the 3G V3 performs more similarly to the 3.5G than the 3G V2. Some may be confused to how this can be. If the 3G V2 and 3G V3 use an identical sensor, the Avago S3688, why does the latter perform more similarly to the Deathadder 3.5G, which uses an entirely different sensor, the Avago S3888?

Well first of all, to clarify things, the S3688 and S3888 are *very similar* sensors. It turns out these sensors are similar enough that another factor creates more pronounced performance differences. What is this factor?

It's the PCB.

In all mice, the PCB, and more specifically the on-board processor interprets what the sensor reads.

So what makes the 3G V2 different from the 3G V3 / 3.5G?

Thunda, through empirical testing found the 3G V2 interprets higher frequency light and detects more red waves than infrared waves, as evidence by the 3G V2 being red-LED swappable and the 3G V3 not. Processors that detect red, as opposed to infrared wavelengths have a lower lift-off distance. This is why red-LED optical mice like the Microsoft IMO 1.1 have virtually no LOD.

So, what does this mean?

Yes, that means two mice with the same sensor can behave extremely differently For example, take the 3.5G Deathadder and the Imperator or the Steelseries Xai and the Razer Mamba. Both of the mice in each corresponding set uses the same sensor and each mouse in the set has different performance characeristics. With that being said, while the sensor is the heart of the mouse, it's not the only performance effecting factor.

So, how exactly are the 3G V2 and 3G V3 different?

The 3G V2 and the 3G V3 / 3.5G actually have *a different dpi* at the lowest setting. Additionally, 3G V2 can be modded for an red-LED to lower lift-off distance.

Another minor difference is that the internal shell of the 3G V2 is unique and it will *not* accept internals from the 3G V3 or 3.5 G, which both share the same internal design. However, it should be noted that the 3G V2 internals can easily be modified with a dremel to fit 3G V3 and 3.5G PCBs.

Since these both have *identical* sensors the only determining factor for the performance differences must come from the PCB itself.

Luckily all Deathadder releases have different boxes, labeling, and plastics. Refer to the build quality section for an in-depth material comparison.

*Deathadder 3G V2*
*Box:*The box features a matte grey, *non*-shiny, *non*-rainbow and *non*-holographic Deathadder logo.










*Mouse:*The Razer logo inlay will be *opaque white*.

*Label:*On the underside of the mouse, the label does not feature the Razer snake logo on the top right. Underneath the label the plastic is smooth, and not rough like the other releases.









*Deathadder 3G V3 / 3.5G*
*3G V3 Box:*The box features a shiny, *non*-rainbow holographic Deathadder logo.

*The Mouse:*The Razer logo will *not* be inlaid and there is no rubber on the logo outline. The logo is translucent. *Please note that I changed the scroll wheel to the Black Edition scroll wheel. Stock 3G V3 / 3.5G mice will have a clear scroll wheel with a blue LED.*










*3.5G Box:*

*3.5G Box:*The box features a shiny, rainbow holographic Deathadder logo.










*Label:*On the underside of the mouse, the label features the Razer snake logo on the top right. Underneath the label the plastic is rough.










*Deathadder Black Edition*
*Box:*The box is clearly labeled as the black edition box. No pictures necessary.

*The Mouse:*The top features a metallic grey coating and rubber sides that make it extremely distinguisable. *Please note that I changed the scroll wheel to the Stock 3G V3 / 3.5G scroll wheel. Stock Black Editions will feature a black rubber wheel.*

*Label:*The label will clearly indicate it's a black edition Deathadder. Underneath the label the plastic is rough.










<a></a>
*Performance Differences*

Now we're on the important part. We wouldn't be here if Razer's different components yielded products that performed exactly the same.

Lift-off distance

Method: Rest one CD below both front skates and one below the back.

Each CD is approximately 1.2mm.

*Deathadder 3G V2:* Tracks at 1 CD, will NOT track at 2 CDs
*Deathadder 3G V3:* Tracks at 2 CDs, will NOT track at 3 CDs.
*Deathadder 3.5G:* Tracks at 3 CDs, will NOT track at 4CDs.

*Tracking*
All Deathadder releases have the best perfect control speed at the 1800 DPI setting. The only discernible difference is that the lowest setting on the 3G V2 tracks faster than the lowest settings on the 3G V3 and the 3.5G. Thunda estimates it's around 520 DPI. I've empirically tested all three mice and I do, indeed feel the 3G V2 is faster.

*DPI Settings*
Deathadder 3G 1800 DPI V1 (Never publicly released)
Unknown

Deathadder 3G 1800 DPI V2 (First retail variation)
*~520 (shown as 450 on box), 900, 1800*

Deathadder 3G 1800 DPI V3 (2nd retail revision)
*450, 900, 1800*

Deathadder 3.5
*450, 900, 1800, 3500*

<a></a>
*Build Quality*

Each mouse also has different build qualities. I'm a pretty big hobbyist and I've been able to tell good, well cured plastics from bad. While this may seem subjective there are obvious differences in materials for all releases of the Deathadder. Included will be a discussion of the building materials and their real-world implications.

*Deathadder 3G V2:* Along with the Black Edition, the 3G V2 is undeniably built the best. Rubber quality is soft, top notch and the plastic is smooth.

However, in a real-world environment these more expensive materials aren't necesarily more rugged, and this is especially true in the case of the Razer Deathadder.

A perfect comparison can be found in leather: Soft, full-grain leather used in Prada shoes is much more expensive than roughened suede found in Redwing work boots. However if you were a construction worker you'd want a pair of shoes that could withstand the harsh environment of your workplace. For you, the boots made of roughened suede would suit your needs. Likewise, when you game with your mouse your hands are filled with oils that attract grime and can cause you too sweat. This environment, while not as extreme as a construction site does favor materials that can absorb moisture and stay grime-free.

The softer, more expensive rubber found in the *3G V2* will feel more saturated when your hand sweats. Additionally, the plastic is smoother than other variations and this lets grime build up. *The 3G V2 is the hardest of all Deathadders to keep clean*. Mouse feet are exactly the same as the *3G V3 / 3.5G* variations and are complete garbage.

*Deathadder 3G V3/ 3.5G*: This build quality the worst. Rubber quality is low and the plastic has a "stickier" feel. However this mouse will, performance wise, outperform the more expensive materials in the *3G V2*.

The *3G V3*'s plastic is not as smooth and will relatively not attract as much grime. The less expensive rubber also doesn't become as oily when exposed to your hands and will remain dry for longer. Mouse feet are exactly the same as the 3G V2 are complete garbage.

*Deathadder Black Edition*: Easily the best build quality. While the plastic underneath is still the ****ty plastic found in the *3G V3 / 3.5G*, Razer has coated the entire upper mouse in rubber. This gives the Deathadder Black Edition the most preferable performance characteristics of any Deathadder.

Sides are rubberized similarly to the *3G V2*. The top is BARELY rubberized, which in fact is the best of all Deathadder tops. This will not attract grime and will not make your hand sweaty.

<a></a>
*Conclusion*

*What mouse is best for you is based on your specific needs*. If the lowest possible lift-off distance is needed and money is not an option the 3G V2 is your only choice. If you don't care about lift-off distance or build quality, the 3.5G will more than satisfy your needs. If braided cables are a serious deal-killer only the 3G and it's variations would suit you.

I compared and contrasted my needs in a mouse. I want something with a relatively low lift-off distance (i.e., I'd only use the 3G V2 or 3G V3) but wanted a mouse that didn't get grimy. There's nothing out on the market that suited my needs so I actually custom built a Razer Deathadder Black Edition 3G using the internals from a 3G V3 and the DA:BE.

Again guys, please submit any information regarding the Deathadder to this thread. Contributions and help are greatly appreciated and discussion is highly encouraged. Happy fraggin guys


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## Skylit

Nice writeup.

I'd like to add that firmware V2.44 (3.5G) and V1.00 (BE release) are likely identical as far as performance goes. V2.44 and V1.00 were updated to 2.45/V1.01 on the same day according to the Razer site.

Just want to avoid confusion as some people assume that the bigger number is better.


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## Darksoul844

Dang nice! i just learned a lot about my mouse


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## jprovido

best mouse I ever used next to the razer copperhead. I peeled off the rubber coating on my deathadder after it wore out after months of extreme usage lol. still looks great


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## ysoto78

DA:BE is awesome.
I've tried other mice such as logitech g9x, razer imperator, etc and DA:BE just has everything for me.


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## HWI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit;15105792*
> Nice writeup.
> 
> I'd like to add that firmware V2.44 (3.5G) and V1.00 (BE release) are likely identical as far as performance goes. V2.44 and V1.00 were updated to 2.45/V1.01 on the same day according to the Razer site.
> 
> Just want to avoid confusion as some people assume that the bigger number is better.


I'd imagine the only real difference between the normal 3.5G firmware and the BE firmware is the lack of LED controls on the BE.


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## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HWI;15106515*
> I'd imagine the only real difference between the normal 3.5G firmware and the BE firmware is the lack of LED controls on the BE.


Yep.


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## hella

I'm glad you guys like it. I plan to add more information as time goes by, especially modding information and firmware information.

I'd also have to agree with y'all, the deathadder black edition shell is astounding. Unfortunately I couldn't deal with the 4CD LOD.

So I hacked together a black edition with a 3G sensor. Surprisingly, it turns out the 3G V2 internals don't fit the BE without dremeling out some parts. For simplicity sake I took a 3G V3 and dropped it in. This mouse, along with the MX518 are my two favorite mice... and I even favor it over my kinzuadder


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## CaptainBlame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella;15105432*
> What mouse is best for you is based on what you need. If the lowest possible lift-off distance is needed and money is not an option the 3G V2 is your only choice.


Is it still possible to buy the 3G V2? I haven't seen it at any of the shops here in Aus.

I have one in perfect condition sitting on my shelf gathering dust.


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## mikez0r

what are the out of box dpi and polling rate and prediction levels of the 3.5g.

what does the sensitivity slider in the razer drivers do? does it override windows senstivity or does it add another layer of sensitvity?


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## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikez0r;15106725*
> what are the out of box dpi and polling rate and prediction levels of the 3.5g.
> 
> what does the sensitivity slider in the razer drivers do? does it override windows senstivity or does it add another layer of sensitvity?


The default settings are: 1800 dpi, 500 hz, and no prediction. You can install new firmware if you want prediction, which razer calls "drift control".

The drivers directly change windows sensitivity and acceleration.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainBlame;15106708*
> Is it still possible to buy the 3G V2? I haven't seen it at any of the shops here in Aus.
> 
> I have one in perfect condition sitting on my shelf gathering dust.


There's a seller on amazon selling 3G deathadders. I believe he's selling 3G V2 versions since that's the box he has on his listing.


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## HWI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella;15106600*
> I'd also have to agree with y'all, the deathadder black edition shell is astounding. Unfortunately I couldn't deal with the 4CD LOD.


Did you try putting some scotch tape on it? I threw some scotch tape on mine and it lowered the LOD. I'm not sure how much it lowered it as I never did a before and after measurement, but it was enough for me.


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## hella

The scotch tape fix works great for lowering LOD. Unfortunately it scratched up my mousepad pretty badly.

I ended up selling my 3.5/BE deathadders to friends. Did you take any measurements on how high the LOD was post-tape fix? I think it'd make a great addition to the thread.


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## toopz

I have DA 3g which has 1 cd lod which is now Kinzuadder
I bought DA BE for nice rubber feel at side but I was disappointed with too much smooth rubber. LOD is as low as 1 cd on my 3.5g DA BE!









Then after a month this problem generated.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uctlq8BS9Yg[/ame[/URL]]

But my problem was started on the right click. It was really annoying.
So didnt wanted to waste my time sending it to Razer.








So I opened it and install old 3g top Shell on the top! bingo problem solved.

But another problem came through that buttons became too sensitive. I just have to give very low force to click and I like solid clicks like DA BE or Mx518 / G400 or Xai.

Thrown away in the drawer.


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## HWI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella;15106981*
> The scotch tape fix works great for lowering LOD. Unfortunately it scratched up my mousepad pretty badly.
> 
> I ended up selling my 3.5/BE deathadders to friends. Did you take any measurements on how high the LOD was post-tape fix? I think it'd make a great addition to the thread.


I have Hyperglides on top of the stock skates, so my LOD would be a little different than most. It's also probably the reason why I haven't had the same issue with the tape screwing up my mousepad.


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## ricken

Getting a DA:BE in a couple days. Gonna replace my years old MX518 which I'm sick of using.


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## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricken;15107855*
> Getting a DA:BE in a couple days. Gonna replace my years old MX518 which I'm sick of using.


Haha, awesome choice dude. The MX518 and DA:BE are two of my favorite mice. Your aiming will be off for about a week since the DA:BE doesn't have prediction. Your hand will also feel cramped if you ever try to go back to the MX518 formfactor.


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## Camph

I've tried pretty much all the big name mouses and the DA has the best sensor by far. In extremely twitch games I found the DA performs pretty much perfect with no positive or negative acceleration and the lack of prediction does make a difference in precision shots.


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## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella;15106827*
> The default settings are: 1800 dpi, 500 hz, and no prediction. You can install new firmware if you want prediction, which razer calls "drift control".
> 
> The drivers directly change windows sensitivity and acceleration.


I don't know if you meant 3G, but the 3.5G never had a "Drift control" firmware


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## hella

Lol, thanks for the correction







. I'm far from a firmware expert.


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## BiGsTaR

Great comparison however I 've one question.

I read on razerfan forums that new ver. of Deathadders (3.5G) have some troubbles on soft mats(QCK) like small ammount of acceleration, and much lower malfunction speed then the 3G. Have you ever experienced something like this?


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## thejoy

Hey ! Very nice article.

I'd like to know, what's the better DPI to use with the DA 1800 version ? I'm a very low sens player so if I go for 1800dpi, I must switch my windows sens to 3/11. What about the drivers ? Should I take the last one ?

Thanks.


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## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thejoy;15124848*
> Hey ! Very nice article.
> 
> I'd like to know, what's the better DPI to use with the DA 1800 version ? I'm a very low sens player so if I go for 1800dpi, I must switch my windows sens to 3/11. What about the drivers ? Should I take the last one ?
> 
> Thanks.


I couldn't find disadvantages on any of the DPI-steps.


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## HWI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiGsTaR;15123659*
> Great comparison however I 've one question.
> 
> I read on razerfan forums that new ver. of Deathadders (3.5G) have some troubbles on soft mats(QCK) like small ammount of acceleration, and much lower malfunction speed then the 3G. Have you ever experienced something like this?


Never heard of or experienced anything like this on the 2 3.5G Deathadders I have and I only use soft mats.


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## Infinite Jest

What kind of skates would you guys recommend for the DA BE?


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## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thejoy;15124848*
> Hey ! Very nice article.
> 
> I'd like to know, what's the better DPI to use with the DA 1800 version ? I'm a very low sens player so if I go for 1800dpi, I must switch my windows sens to 3/11. What about the drivers ? Should I take the last one ?
> 
> Thanks.


The 1,800 dpi setting has the best perfect control speed and tracks the best. I would use this setting, and if possible, use 6/11.

Drivers is a touchy subject. Some people have supposedly killed their mice by using them while I haven't had any problems installing them in the 10 deathadders I've had/sold/made into kinzuadders.

If you like prediction use the DC (drift control) versions. I use 1.39 NDC and I couldn't be happier.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest;15132869*
> What kind of skates would you guys recommend for the DA BE?


The DA:BE comes with thick, excellent skates. I wouldn't replace them at all.


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## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella;15133360*
> The DA:BE comes with thick, excellent skates. I wouldn't replace them at all.


I noticed that they seemed adequate, but I was told on another there'd to throw more on top. Until I'm tearing holes in my mousepad, I think I'll stay stock.


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## HWI

I threw some Hyperglides on my BE, but I put them right over top of the stock ones. I had a set laying around, so I figured why not.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiGsTaR;15123659*
> Great comparison however I 've one question.
> 
> I read on razerfan forums that new ver. of Deathadders (3.5G) have some troubbles on soft mats(QCK) like small ammount of acceleration, and much lower malfunction speed then the 3G. Have you ever experienced something like this?


Hey buddy, I use the QCK and I haven't noticed any acceleration from the 3.5G. You should be fine if you purchase the mouse.


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## ricken

Got my DA:BE today. It's a lot more comfortable than my MX518 was.







The rubber grips are way better too, and it feels so much better having a matte top as opposed to glossy.

Only problem I came into so far as the driver causing BSODs! No matter, I configured it the way I wanted to and uninstalled that junk so I'm set.


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## Infinite Jest

I haven't installed the Razer driver yet. Is it worth doing? So far all I've done is plugged it in and let 'er rip.


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## Aluc13

I also, would like to know the above answer. I have yet to install the Razer drivers. It works fine and everything, but I am wondering if it will be a big performance boost. I heard a lot of people have problems when using razer drivers.


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## yeahi

hey guys some help here i used to claw on a cheapo small mouse and i was only playing CS 1.6 now i built a good pc and i wanna play bf2 BF3 COD and i am lost here i need a mouse that claw/palm so what i choose the DA BE for 50 EURO or the logitech G400 for 40 euro


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeahi;15139436*
> hey guys some help here i used to claw on a cheapo small mouse and i was only playing CS 1.6 now i built a good pc and i wanna play bf2 BF3 COD and i am lost here i need a mouse that claw/palm so what i choose the DA BE for 50 EURO or the logitech G400 for 40 euro


Don't know much about mice. But I am pleased with the Deathadder.


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## yeahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13;15139440*
> Don't know much about mice. But I am pleased with the Deathadder.


yeah i hear that alot


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## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeahi;15139461*
> yeah i heard that alot


Yeah, it's a very good mouse. I haven't installed the firmware on it. Cause that is where I hear a bulk of the problems.


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## yeahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13;15139477*
> Yeah, it's a very good mouse. I haven't installed the firmware on it. Cause that is where I hear a bulk of the problems.


problems ? like what


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## Infinite Jest

Is the default dpi 1800 on the da be?


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## ricken

I gotta say between the mice I've used within the last decade (WMO 1.1A, IM 3.0, MX518, G5, G5 Star Wars Edition), this Deathadder Black Edition is easily the best. The Microsoft mice always felt had that cheap feel to them in use, and it took some adjusting getting used to Logitech mice and I never really liked their scroll wheels.

This thing is easily brings me back to my Intellimouse days, but much better in feel. And it comes with 500hz out of the box, no tinkering required. Love love love it.


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## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeahi;15139541*
> problems ? like what


There's been quite a few people reporting that firmware updates killed their mouse. I assume it's low risk since I haven't had the problem in any of the firmware installations I've done on 10 deathadders.


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## sloppyjoe123

@yeahi

The DeathAdder has the best sensor, and the G400 has acceleration as do the G500/G700. Its slight, but its there. So for CS 1.6 its a very good mouse, as its accurate as hell. it is designed for palm/claw use for ppl with bigger hands. If you have smaller hands, it might not be as comfortable. Comfort > performance anyday imo.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123;15171453*
> @yeahi
> 
> The DeathAdder has the best sensor, and the G400 has acceleration as do the G500/G700. Its slight, but its there. So for CS 1.6 its a very good mouse, as its accurate as hell. it is designed for palm/claw use for ppl with bigger hands. If you have smaller hands, it might not be as comfortable. Comfort > performance anyday imo.


G400 doesn't suffer from neither positive or negative acceleration at average speeds.


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## HWI

What sensor does the G400 use?


----------



## Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HWI;15176145*
> What sensor does the G400 use?


Avago S3095.


----------



## HWI

Well I don't know crap about that sensor. lol


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123;15171453*
> @yeahi
> 
> The DeathAdder has the best sensor, and the G400 has acceleration as do the G500/G700. Its slight, but its there. So for CS 1.6 its a very good mouse, as its accurate as hell. it is designed for palm/claw use for ppl with bigger hands. If you have smaller hands, it might not be as comfortable. Comfort > performance anyday imo.


I agree dude. Comfortability is the most important feature in a mouse second to sensor accuracy.

I ended up switching from the MX518 to the DA only because my hand grew too large for the logitech shape. Both mice are absolutely great.


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## tom2k11

Anyone know where you can purchase a V1 Deathadder in the UK? I've checked retail sites and also ebay & amazon but I can't seem to find one. Anyone got any ideas?


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## r3d33m3r

might be a bit offtopic, but isn't it recommended to always buy from razer store for maximum support?
it would be 53€ if i buy it from online store, 59€ in razer store


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## HWI

I've never bought any Razer product from their store, although I've also never had to rma any Razer product either.


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## sixxxxxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HWI;15177261*
> Well I don't know crap about that sensor. lol


To my understanding it performs around the same (if not better) than the MX518 (which uses the 3080?), so if memory serves me right:

Perfect Control: 2.05+ m/s
Malfunction Speed: 4.5 m/s


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3d33m3r;15212240*
> might be a bit offtopic, but isn't it recommended to always buy from razer store for maximum support?
> it would be 53€ if i buy it from online store, 59€ in razer store


I've RMA'd a razer keyboard and they never ask where you purchased your product. IMO it shouldn't affect the quality of your support.

With that being said, Razer support sucks. It took about 7-8 emails for me to get my RMA through and the person didn't read my posts. They'll listen to you through persistence.


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## mylilpony

hmm still trying to figure out if i want BE for 10 dollars less or the 3g Deathadder....

any suggestions?

Right now I use MX518 and I have 4hd and qck heavy. 
I use 800 DPI for CS, 400 for BC2/BF3, and 1200 for SC2 with various sensitivity sttings. I wish Deathadder had adjustable DPI though...great for when you want to go into tank or AA gun in Battlefield...


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## hella

Between those choices you'll have to evaluate their differences to see what you want in a mouse.

Black Edition

Pros:
- 10$ Cheaper
- Better mousefeel (Arguably)

Cons:
-3 CD Lift-off distance (~4.5mm)

3G

Pros
- Significantly less lift-off distance
- Non-braided cable (which I personally view as a plus)

Cons
- Slippery sides attract grime. Top surface attracts moisture more than the Black Edition

Now, both mice are extremely accurate and have the same ergonomics. These are essentially the two differences in the mice. Pick and choose which attributes you need the most and make your decision based on that.


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## tjangel07

I bought a Deathadder BE last week and so far I love it. But I have a question.

Is the scrollwheel durable? Can it take a lot of punishment?


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## hella

Durable in regards to what? The deathadder uses a top mounted PCB for the scroll wheel functions so it can take a LOT more pressure than bottom mounted scroll wheel PCBs.

The scroll wheels also seem to last longer than Logitech scroll wheels (Which, on all my logitech MX518 based mice double or counter-scrolled after 2-3 months).

However, the scrolling "notch" will become less tactile as the mouse gets more use.


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## tjangel07

Durable to a lot of middle clicks? I can't seem to get used to its scroll button when browsing but when I'm gaming it doesn't bother me as much.

I still think this is the best mouse I ever owned though. The tracking is top notch.


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## hella

I believe the middle mouse switch is not an omron switch. Durability wise mouse switches usually encounter the "double clicking" problem before they fail.

What do you mean when you say you can't use it? Is it too stiff to click or does the click not register?


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## tjangel07

I can definitely use it. My problem is sometimes when I click the scroll wheel it also scrolls.


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## hella

That sucks buddy. I had that problem on my G5 and I couldn't find a solution for it. If it bothers you I'd try returning it for another unit.


----------



## tjangel07

Maybe it will get better in time. It doesn't bother me that much anyway.


----------



## r3d33m3r

okay, so i just got my DeathAdder: Black Edition








the mosue feels great and lies great in the ehand, ther sis a problem though: when i put it on my Goliathus Control, the mouse hangs after aan inch and makes this itching sound, like something got hooked to it underneath?

my 2nd question is, i want to edit the side buttons, but planned to not use the driver. same with the dpi switching, there is this profile button underneath the mouse that will switch between the 4 or 5 dpi settings this mouse has without a driver? what's with the polling rate? what is the standard one when you plug it in and what is the optimum one? i guess either 500hz or 1000hz.
should i update the firmware?
Quote:


> English Release Log: - Fixed polling rate changes back to default when user unplug and re-plug the mouse to the system. Note: Compatible with Razer DeathAdder BlackEdition only.


can i set all this settings, then save it on aprofile and when i plug in the mouse to my computer sometime after a new installation, do i have the same settings without having to use the driver?

questions over questions


----------



## podunk

I just received my Deathadder BE last night. It is definitely an upgrade from my G5 i have been using for 3 years. It's slightly larger though, so I will have to take some time to get used to it.

A few quick notes - the mouse feet are EXTREMELY thin - almost nonexistent. I read about this before buying, and was surprised at how thin they really are. However, the mouse doesn't seem to drag on my Qck heavy; an issue some people were experiencing. Tracking is great on the Qck heavy - I'm not sure how it could be better on a hard pad, I think it's great as it is.

If you want to use the profile button, or use custom button assignments, you have to have the driver installed. I tried assigning a button to change profiles, and then uninstalling driver, but the button didn't work after uninstalling. Also, the profile button you have underneath only works when the driver is installed as well.

The default polling rate is 500hz. I think the mouse kept my profile settings after uninstalling and reinstalling the driver. I'm not sure though, since I messed around with the settings both times, and I really only spent like 5 minutes playing with them.

The black rubber on the sides feels much better the coating on the G5 - much softer and offers more grip. The plastic on top feels really nice as well.

The only gripe I have with the deathadder is the shape. It's slightly more difficult to lift than the g5, since the non-thumb side is convex and doesn't offer anywhere for your pinky and ring finger to get support. This may be due to my small hands - only about 7" from bottom to top of middle finger.

I'm also a palm/fingertip grip, and this mouse fits that shape perfectly.


----------



## r3d33m3r

ok thanks for the clarification. now only tihngs i ned to know is, if i should go to 1000Hz or leave it at 500Hz, and instal the driver first or the firmware?


----------



## podunk

definitely driver first! I did not have to flash the firrmware on mine, since it was already the latest version (1.01 for BE). Install the driver and check the version on the firmware, to make sure you really need to upgrade it.

I switched my polling rate to 1000hz, but I didn't really notice a difference between 500 and 1000. My computer is definitely fast enough to handle 1000hz, so I might as well go for the best performance. If you notice your computer slowing down at 1000hz polling, just switch it back to 500.


----------



## LoveKnight

I just bought DeathAdder Black Edition, too. May I ask why you, r3d33m3r or anyone here suggests that should not install driver?

I access Razer site and see that the newest firmware for Black Edition is 1.01. It is the same as my Black Edition even I have not update firmware yet. It is so weird but I think the Razer manufactory has already installed newest firmware when it releases the mouse.

I tested the mouse by playing 30 minutes CSS and it was really awesome, I killed many but died many too (because I wanted to test the mouse so I usually go at first line ^^). So far so good.

Does anyone here has pdf or video clips of how to replace interior of DeathAdder to Imperator? I watched a clip on Youtube and there was a person who could do that. I still prefer the shape of Imperator to DeathAdder. There are many people out there want the best sensor as DeathAdder but they do not like the shape of DeathAdder like me.


----------



## podunk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LoveKnight*


I just bought DeathAdder Black Edition, too. May I ask why you, r3d33m3r or anyone here suggests that should not install driver?

I access Razer site and see that the newest firmware for Black Edition is 1.01. It is the same as my Black Edition even I have not update firmware yet. It is so weird but I think the Razer manufactory has already installed newest firmware when it releases the mouse.

I tested the mouse by playing 30 minutes CSS and it was really awesome, I killed many but died many too (because I wanted to test the mouse so I usually go at first line ^^). So far so good.

Does anyone here has pdf or video clips of how to replace interior of DeathAdder to Imperator? I watched a clip on Youtube and there was a person who could do that. I still prefer the shape of Imperator to DeathAdder. There are many people out there want the best sensor as DeathAdder but they do not like the shape of DeathAdder like me.


I usually prefer to not install drivers either, unless you absolutely need them. It just adds another layer for something to mess up. However, I need to use the razer driver since I switch between 900 and 1800 dpi between different games.

If you don't need to switch between DPI settings, you can install the drivers - set the DPI and polling rate you want, and then uninstall it.


----------



## Array_

In first post there is something like 
"Deathadder 3.5
450, 900, 1800, 3500"

So I have some questions: if in DA:BE there is a possibility to set DPI on 450, I would need a drivers to do this? But I heard that it's better to not install drivers for deathadder becouse it can cause some problems, is that true? (in my previous mice I have never installed any drivers... (there was just no need for this)).


----------



## snelan

I assume the 3G V2 is the 1st generation? If so, I have one, and know they are supposed to be awesome. After reading this thread, I'm wondering if I should switch my G500 out for the DeathAdder 1st gen. Would that be a wise option?


----------



## ricken

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Array_*


In first post there is something like 
"Deathadder 3.5
450, 900, 1800, 3500"

So I have some questions: if in DA:BE there is a possibility to set DPI on 450, I would need a drivers to do this? But I heard that it's better to not install drivers for deathadder becouse it can cause some problems, is that true? (in my previous mice I have never installed any drivers... (there was just no need for this)).


You would need the drivers to set it to 450dpi, and the drivers do suck in my experiences (they gave me BSOD), but you can change the settings how you like them in the driver and then uninstall it. The mouse will keep the setting so you only need to do it once.


----------



## Array_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ricken*


You would need the drivers to set it to 450dpi, and the drivers do suck in my experiences (they gave me BSOD), but you can change the settings how you like them in the driver and then uninstall it. The mouse will keep the setting so you only need to do it once.


Ok, Thanks for answer. I'm going to buy DA:BE.

And my question on future is how we can change polling rate from 500hz to 1000hz on DA:BE? On abyssus it was like "on the fly" by pulling button, how is that on DA?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Array_;15524113*
> Ok, Thanks for answer. I'm going to buy DA:BE.
> 
> And my question on future is how we can change polling rate from 500hz to 1000hz on DA:BE? On abyssus it was like "on the fly" by pulling button, how is that on DA?


driver setting.


----------



## Skoobs

looking to buy just the scroll wheel from a deathadder black edition. please PM me if anyone knows a place to get these, or has one they would like to get rid of.

will the black scroll wheels work well in the earlier deathadder 1800 that comes with the clear scroll wheel?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs;15533618*
> will the black scroll wheels work well in the earlier deathadder 1800 that comes with the clear scroll wheel?


If it's an early version of the 1800dpi version(rev.2), it won't fit as it's slightly differently shaped.
I'm not even sure if it would fit in a normal 3500dpi edition, but if it does, it will fit also in a rev.3 1800dpi version.


----------



## tom2k11

Hello guys, I have a question about the LOD fix with magic tape on the 3.5g.

I tried this fix earlier and it really made a good improvement to the LOD (especially important because I am quite a low sens player), but sadly it caused the mouse to jitter. I did tests in paints with and without the tape and it definitely was the tape causing the mouse to jitter.

Anyone got any other ideas for me and does anybody else's mouse jitter with the tape fix? I am using the magic tape over the entire sensor.


----------



## Sriracha

I love my Deathadder, but I just hate how the right and left click have worn out so easily after less than a year's use. If they released a Deathadder with microswitches as tactile and responsive as the Abyssus, no glossy sides, and RGB backlighting for the scroll wheel and logo, then it probably would be the end all of gaming mice for me.


----------



## Jmatt110

How it the Black Edition on hard pads? And whats wrong with it at 3500dpi?


----------



## squarebox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jmatt110*
> 
> How it the Black Edition on hard pads? And whats wrong with it at 3500dpi?


Been using my DA for coming to 2 year on a 9HD.
No problems yet.


----------



## xFk

So im looking at buy the black edition but i am now worried about the liftoff distance for FPS games. any advice?


----------



## Jon A. Silvers

What kind of quality is death adder for left-handers?


----------



## azeemzor

I'm interested in buying the black edition mouse, Have been using a IE 3.0 since the first version came out (10 years?). I wonder if the Deathadder is as easy to lift when gaming as the IE 3.0 is.
My play style focus heavily on picking up the mouse, thats why i returned my Naos 5000, could get a good grip to lift it up.


----------



## Infinite Jest

What is the default dpi for the da be? I've been using it for a couple of months and haven't bothered to install and software. Loving it thus far. Blows the g700 out of the water with its consistency.


----------



## tjangel07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> What is the default dpi for the da be? I've been using it for a couple of months and haven't bothered to install and software. Loving it thus far. Blows the g700 out of the water with its consistency.


1800


----------



## tjangel07

I have a question. Will stacking mouse feet lower the perfect control speed of the Deathadder?


----------



## Vikhr

I'm not sure, what I have found is that the sensor resolution seemed to be lower, I had to raise my sensitivity in all of my games to compensate for the seemingly lower DPI.


----------



## Nnimrod

Great mouse







got one like 3-4 years ago, no complaints yet. That's saying a lot, it survived college, sub-zero ambient OC'ing adventures (with coffee ice drops getting in/on it), and everything else. And has helped me get thousands of headshots playing Crysis 2







no upgrade planned. only gripe is that my hand definitely sweats







I luv Razor


----------



## tjangel07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vikhr*
> 
> I'm not sure, what I have found is that the sensor resolution seemed to be lower, I had to raise my sensitivity in all of my games to compensate for the seemingly lower DPI.


Does it help lower the Lift off distance? I don't really mind the LOD right now in my DA but it would be nice if it got lower.


----------



## Vikhr

It does but I'd much rather do the tape fix only.


----------



## Zero4549

Ok, so my 3G V3 Deathadder has developed a half-broken rear side button.

If I press the top half of the button it does not actuate, and instead caves in with absolutely no resistance and goes deep into the interior of the casing (about 1.5mm in. Normally a fully depressed side button on a deathadder is still .5mm or so away from the threshold, on the exterior side).

If I click on the button part, it functions properly, but it is more sensitive (requires less force) and has issues with repeated presses (similar to a cherry mx blue keyboard switch's double-tap issue).

Is there any way to easily fix this?

Also, I've recently bought my GF a DA:BE and am absolutely in love with the feel and quality of the thing. However I don't like the black unlit scroll wheel or it's huge lift-off distance. Hella seem's to have transplanted all the internals (including the scroll wheel, but not the buttons) of a 3G V3 into a DA:BE. This seems like the absolutely perfect solution for me if I can't fix my current one and have to buy a new mouse anyway. So... how exactly would I do about doing that? I'm afraid I have absolutely no tools aside from some screw drivers and a hammer at the moment so what I'm really wanting to hear is that there is no soldering involved. Pretty please? *crosses fingers*

Lastly, my V3 (on a goliathus speed), my old V2 (on a Mantis Control), and even my GF's BE (on a kabuto) have all had the issue of the belly of the mouse dragging across the pad, causing unnecessary friction and pretty much rendering the mouse feet useless. Even replacing the feet on both my DA's with hyperglides barely helped. Does anyone make particularly thick skates for the DA? Or perhaps a custom set that includes a sensor-ring skate to keep the belly from dragging? Or should I just start doubling up on the skates? I don't want to give it TOO much height since I'm so used to the current sensitivity


----------



## Infinite Jest

Are there any major problems presented by razer drivers and software for the DA BE? I'm wondering if I should try them out to fiddle with the DPI.


----------



## Pyroh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Are there any major problems presented by razer drivers and software for the DA BE? I'm wondering if I should try them out to fiddle with the DPI.


No not really, but 1800 DPI is recommended if your game supports raw input as it offers the highest perfect control speed of the 4 settings. Additionally I'd use 500hz over 1000hz as it's more stable. Finally, you probably shouldn't use macros in the Razer drivers as they're relatively delayed imo and not needed.

EDIT: remember to update your firmware to the latest revision right after you install their driver.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Thanks.


----------



## Zero4549

Well, my DA's button has finally completely broken. It just started hanging limply and wiggling around with any move. No matter where it was pressed it wouldn't actuate the switch and wouldn't return to the proper position.

So... I did the only logical thing to do, and opened it up. Inside I found the answer to two questions. firstly, that replacing the internals from one DA to another (assuming the same design) would require nothing other than a screwdriver, and secondly, that the plastic holding the button to the casing was completely broken in half and detached.

Since the internals all seem to be in perfect working condition and it seems like an easy enough process, I'm just about ready to buy a BE and stick my old guts into it.

*While I'm 90% sure, it would mean a lot to me if someone could confirm that my internals will fit into a DA:BE* so to answer this question, as well as for educational purposes for anyone else interested in the subject, here are some half decent shots of the guts of my DA - something that is apparently quite hard to find on the internet somehow.

.


----------



## tjangel07

What do you guys use to clean your DA BE?

I noticed mine had some rough spots on the upper shell but I'm not sure if it's just dirt or something.


----------



## l4n b0y

love my 3.5g its BEAST!


----------



## Gabriel Ruan

Does the original, 1800 DPI DeathAdder track on SteelSeries' Icemats? If so, what colors?


----------



## athwen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjangel07*
> 
> What do you guys use to clean your DA BE?
> 
> I noticed mine had some rough spots on the upper shell but I'm not sure if it's just dirt or something.


Cotton pads dabbed with a little Isopropyl alcohol works fine for me. Don't rub the pad against the mouse too hard, apply slight pressure and rub the dirty areas down slowly will do. After doing that let it air + dry for a minute or more before using and you're done.


----------



## Pyroh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabriel Ruan*
> 
> Does the original, 1800 DPI DeathAdder track on SteelSeries' Icemats? If so, what colors?


As far as I'm aware yes, and I'm fairly certain the color shouldn't matter unlike other mice (SpawN). Although keep in mind it might not track if you're using the tape fix as my DA doesn't track on my laminate desk at all with it.


----------



## Gabriel Ruan

WMO's don't track on my glass desk, but they're sometimes paired with Icemats (toxjq style).
I found a place with many, boxed, second generation DeathAdders. Should I sell them for profit?


----------



## Methoxetamine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabriel Ruan*
> 
> Does the original, 1800 DPI DeathAdder track on SteelSeries' Icemats? If so, what colors?


Yeah, but you can make it malfunction pretty easy though.


----------



## Gabriel Ruan

Damn!


----------



## Jimi

Does anybody know a place on Razer's website where I can report bugs for their drivers? The deathadder 3.5G has a horrible problem where the two side mouse buttons fail to work for ~10 minutes after plugging anything USB into your computer. It's been like this for a year and all my friends have the problem as well.


----------



## Pyroh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimi*
> 
> Does anybody know a place on Razer's website where I can report bugs for their drivers? The deathadder 3.5G has a horrible problem where the two side mouse buttons fail to work for ~10 minutes after plugging anything USB into your computer. It's been like this for a year and all my friends have the problem as well.


I've never heard of this bug ever before, and although I'm sure it happens to you its probably not because of their software. Make sure you're firmware is fully updated in addition to the drivers. Also, what OS are you on?


----------



## senna89

deathadder and other razers have rubber surface ?


----------



## Jimi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyroh*
> 
> I've never heard of this bug ever before, and although I'm sure it happens to you its probably not because of their software. Make sure you're firmware is fully updated in addition to the drivers. Also, what OS are you on?


I've always used the latest firmware and drivers. Windows 7 64bit. This bug has been present for about a year. I know at least 4 other people that experience it on a regular basis. It is a problem with Razer's software, because on GNU/Linux there is no issue.


----------



## Corrupt

Just got my DA black edition. Any stability problems at 1000hz? I'm using 1800dpi with 1000hz on qck.


----------



## ranviper

Loved my DeathAdder mac edition, love my PC edition.


----------



## DarkredDragon

Any word on whether or not Razer plans on adding side scrolling to the DA? That is one feature I really loved to use on my Sidewinder X8 I really like it because I could program just about anything to it whether it be a macro or a simple key click or using it for its intended purpose, scrolling horizontally.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkredDragon*
> 
> Any word on whether or not Razer plans on adding side scrolling to the DA? That is one feature I really loved to use on my Sidewinder X8 I really like it because I could program just about anything to it whether it be a macro or a simple key click or using it for its intended purpose, scrolling horizontally.


As far as I know, they have no intention on continuing the deathadder line. They're too busy trying to convince people to "upgrade" to their inferior but pricier mamba and naga.

Even if they do make a new deathadder however, I'm almost certain that it will not have horizontal scrolling (nor will any other near-future razer mouse).


----------



## Penguana

I just have have two quick questions about the 3.5g:

Firstly, I used to own one (for about a week, but it sadly had to be returned because of a faulty right click, that's not putting me off another on though) and I noticed that whilst it had a nice shape, the sides got slippery. Now I didn't really get a chance to game during that week, just general windows usage, but it was slippery in my hands. I just want to know whether people feel the 3.5g gets too slippery to use in game or not (it always felt like I was about to lose grip of the mouse but never did). I guess this is a preference based opinion, but still, do those who use their 3.5g feel it gets stupidly slippery when gaming?

Second question: I returned mine because of a faulty right click, but that isn't the only reason. I also found that the mouse seemed to heat up (get significantly warmer than it should from my hand resting on it), and it wasn't exactly comfortable or beneficial for my already slippery hands. Now, it was only truly noticeable on the area just above the pulsating logo, but surely one little LED wouldn't produce a warm (considerably warm) feeling on the top of the mouse. So would it have been a fault with mine, or is it a problem inherent with all deathadders because of the lights, and is it fixed in the black edition?

Thanks. This is probably the best place to ask this kind of question, so that's why I'm asking.


----------



## Wheezo

My 3.5G gets semi hot to the touch because of the glowing logo. You can turn it off in the Razer driver software.

The black edition would be free of this problem as it doesn't have any glowing components.

Probably my only gripe about this mouse.


----------



## Zero4549

The "slipperiness" of the 3.5g is inherent to all glossy plastics and is dependent on how sweaty your hands get. If glossy sides don't work for you, the black edition has rubberized sides.

As for the heat, it is a well known fact that deathadders do give off heat (including the black edition, to a lesser degree).


----------



## Penguana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> The "slipperiness" of the 3.5g is inherent to all glossy plastics and is dependent on how sweaty your hands get. If glossy sides don't work for you, the black edition has rubberized sides.
> As for the heat, it is a well known fact that deathadders do give off heat (including the black edition, to a lesser degree).


So would that then be the sensor that causes the heat, because I really can't understand why anything else would. And would I be right in assuming the black edition puts out less heat than the 3.5g because of the plastic top surface as opposed to the rubberised one (I really didn't think one LED could be the cause of the heat, or at least the cause of any noticeable heat). If the pulsating LED on the 3.5g does emit noticeable heat, then so be it, but that really is a surprise to me.


----------



## Zero4549

The top surface on the black edition is still rubberized, just with a different thickness and coating.

Yes, a good deal of the heat from Deathadder mice comes directly from the infrared sensor, but the scroll wheel and logo LEDs, like any light source, do produce some as well.

Due to the way the logo led is installed, the small heat it puts out can easily and (relatively) quickly build up over time, in that exact spot.

The scroll wheel LED is not tightly incased and has some access to open air through the gaps under the buttons and around the wheel itself, and as such it's heat does not build up to as noticeable of a level.

The Black Edition has neither the scroll wheel LED nor the logo LED, and as such should be somewhat cooler.

The logo LED on the normal DA can also be easily removed, if you don't mind losing your warranty (if it is still in effect)


----------



## DeMS

You can just turn the leds off on the drivers. No need to open the mouse.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeMS*
> 
> You can just turn the leds off on the drivers. No need to open the mouse.


That's true, but with all the Razer driver hate in this thread, I thought it best not to mention


----------



## j henderson

i have a naga


----------



## Gunkers

I've gone through countless of mice, but I haven't tried a Razer DeathAdder because of the reputation it holds for various issues. My friend has the first DeathAdder for years now and had no problem with it. I used it and like the feel. I've had Mionix, Kinzu, Logitech G5 (favorite mouse of all time, but dead senor after... 6 years of great usage), G500, and dozens of Microsoft/Acer/Stock Mice. Now what are the chances of getting a faulty DeathAdder or ecountering a problem with them? I will be buying a Black DeathAdder when this post is 8hrs old. Either I need to fully endorse my own decision or change the direction I'm going in.

I never lift off my mice; I wish to have a comfortable, accurate, stable and responsive mouse. I just need to hear personally is this the mouse I'm looking for?


----------



## Zero4549

If you don't.lift your mouse you've already solved one of the deathadder 3 biggest flaws.

It's second big flaw is ability terrible stock mouse feet. You can fix.that easily by just sticking another set on top of the originals (don't replace, add).

The last big flaw is build quality. I own an original, a rev.2, and a black edition. The original is still working fine but it came out of the box with a slightly misaligned right click that will touch the scroll wheel when depressed (and prevent scrolling while held). The rev.2 was flawless but one of its buttons snapped off aftera few years of very heavy use (completely repairs with superglue). The black k edition is by far the nicest and best built one so far. Therefore I have to say that their build quality is a bit of gamble and averages on just standard, however if you get a black edition it increases your chances of a good unit.

Overall if you want a comfortable stable no nonsense mouse, the deathadder is great, but it does involve a degree of luck and a few after-market tweaks.

Ps- please excuse the sloppiness, I'm on a touch screen phone


----------



## Gunkers

K, I'm a gambler. I'm doing it. Links to good aftermarket feet?


----------



## Gunkers

K, I'm a gambler. I'm doing it. Links to good aftermarket feet?

I know there are different models and versions of the DeathAdder, but is this the one I should buy?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunkers*
> 
> K, I'm a gambler. I'm doing it. Links to good aftermarket feet?
> I know there are different models and versions of the DeathAdder, but is this the one I should buy?


Assuming you're right handed, yep that's the "best" one. By far the best construction quality and it has less parts to break. It does have some possible drawbacks though.

It is rubberized instead of glossy which most people prefer but some might find less desirable.
It has no lights, and has a more metallic tone, which is entirely subjective of course. If for some reason you want lights AND a black edition shell, you can swap the internal components of a normal edition into the shell of a black edition. All the parts line up perfectly, but that will of course void your warranty and cost more.
It's stock feet are even worse than the others (actually the material of the feet themselves is better, but they are thinner, and that is the problem. Even the original feet are far too thin and cause the belly of the mouse to drag, which is why I suggest doubling up on feet. Once doubled, this is no more of an issue than it is with any other DA.
The lift-off distance is higher, but can easily be corrected with a piece of scotch tape. This is a non-issue if you don't frequently lift your mouse.
As for mouse feet, Just about any company will do. I'm currently using Corepad skates (they are the only ones available on amazon that are custom fit to the DA), but in the past I have used Hyperglides and even razer's own replacement feet. The corepads are slightly less rounded off which will give them better coverage but also causes them to drag a bit more until they are worn out. The razer ones are black instead of white. That's the only real difference between them.


----------



## Gunkers

Great reply! I already ordered them, they should be coming in today! I really don't tend to lift off my mouse and I prefer a no lights minimalistic look. Rubberized all the way







. Thanks again for ensuring my confidence in buying the mouse and I'll get back with what my thoughts are when I use them!


----------



## Gunkers

Got it today and wow. I am extremely impressed. I have nothing but good to say about this mouse. It fits me perfect and my god is it accurate. The amount of acceleration feels perfect and I am able to do finite things that I couldn't do with my kinzu.


----------



## Penguana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunkers*
> 
> Got it today and wow. I am extremely impressed. I have nothing but good to say about this mouse. It fits me perfect and my god is it accurate. The amount of acceleration feels perfect and I am able to do finite things that I couldn't do with my kinzu.


Correct me if I'm wrong (which I probably am) but I always thought that one of the reasons why optical sensors are so popular for fps gaming is because they have no acceleration (optical/ infrared, I know DA has infrared). Unless, you mean prediction, although again i didn't think the deathadder had any, or much.


----------



## tom2k11

He could have turned Acceleration on via the DA driver and be talking about that


----------



## Penguana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tom2k11*
> 
> He could have turned Acceleration on via the DA driver and be talking about that


Ahh, ok.


----------



## RussianHak

Love my DeathAdder, Razer you have a lifetime customer!


----------



## metal571

hey guys, created a separate topic for this but i feel like i could add to this thread by providing a real-world DeathAdder RAW input low sensitivity performance test, so here we are (this is the 3.5G by the way). i also comment on the inconsistency at 1000 Hz.


----------



## Tuny

i bought a Deathadder black edition last week and im having one problem

the bottom of the mouse is dragging on the mousepad right out of the box, and i think its because of the stock feet that are too thin
im thinking about buy some hyperglide feets, does someone know if this will solve the problem? (im using an everglide titan monstermat as pad)

another question, are the lastest drivers and firmwares for the black edition the 1.02 and 1.01?

thanks very much


----------



## areus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tuny*
> 
> i bought a Deathadder black edition last week and im having one problem
> the bottom of the mouse is dragging on the mousepad right out of the box, and i think its because of the stock feet that are too thin
> im thinking about buy some hyperglide feets, does someone know if this will solve the problem? (im using an everglide titan monstermat as pad)
> another question, are the lastest drivers and firmwares for the black edition the 1.02 and 1.01?
> thanks very much


just cut off these edges with a sharp knife and itll be done ; ) and it wont drag at all

have fun !


----------



## Penguana

I have a light coloured desk and don't really use a mousepad (all the ones I have are too small). I read somewhere that the deathadder's sensor won't track well on a hard light surface. Is this true, or should it work fine using my desk?


----------



## Geglamash

Deathadder master race!


----------



## r0ach

How the F are they still creating mice that drag on the mousepad after all these revisions since original 3g???


----------



## areus

razer worker cant read at all.. theyr just dumbfu*cks ! thats all !


----------



## DeMS

I got scratches under all my DeathAdders from scrapping against the mousepad, which even makes it feel like it's heavier.

I don't have a clue what they're thinking about when designing those mice, but I need to stack up on skates on them all the time, which makes the tracking a bit different, which is not optimal. Also, when reaching the corners of the mousepad, if I go a bit off, the stacked mousefeet will end up dropping, and I'll be left with the original mousefeet glued to the mousepad


----------



## Skylit

Cost.

It's an issue, but not one big enough to cause them to redesign the mold.


----------



## Tuny

can i just change the top of the DA BE with the top of another comom deathadder?

the top of the BE is great, but the other model is entirely ruberized and its black, so i think it would be awesome with the black scroll of the BE


----------



## Warfield

I've had the DA: BE for quite a bit. I've had a few issues with this mouse that I believe make it far from a perfect mouse. The mouse drags pretty badly. This was a huge design flaw that has not been fixed through its many iterations. Thin feet and recessed placement on the mouse make for a bad drag. I just ordered hyperglides so debating on whether to stack them or if they will be thick enough for replacement. I'm not a fan of the braided cable but its not a huge issue. The liftoff distance is awful. I have yet to apply the tape fix but I'll need to look into it. The liftoff distance is painful to play through for low sens (450 dpi). The shape is pretty comfortable though I wish it was a little longer (comparable to the IE 3.0). Overall, not a bad mouse but I'll always be looking out for a better replacement.


----------



## GuiGeek

All those issues can be dealt with.

I have hyperglides and the mouse is awesome with those on. I have tape fixed it and I have ZERO lod, you can even make your own custom LOD using tape and scissors to scratch to the distance you want (I tried this, you can get 0 --> default insane LOD we all agree on this).

Having played with WMO, MS 3.0, 1.1, logitech MX310-518 and abyssus I think this mouse is one of the best I ever played with. SO confortable for long gaming sessions.

Works best with 1800dpi setting IMO, but that's just me I guess.


----------



## Warfield

They can be dealt with but we really shouldn't have to IMO. 1800 DPI is way too sensitive for me. I'm used to the IE 3.0 400 DPI.

I'm assuming you stacked mouse feet? I'll try the tape fix when I get home. Is there any guides on it. Google results didn't seem to pull up any photo guides.

EDIT: I was reading that the mouse malfunctions at lower than 1800 DPI. Not sure if that is true or not. A few posts state to make it 1800 and 3/11 with MarkC. Would that give a 900 DPI or is it calculated differently?


----------



## GuiGeek

I know it shouldn't be this way. I spent some money for this mouse and my first impression was: PISSED OFF! I couldn't believe it. But in the end, everything is fine, I love this mouse and I have an AMAZING time on CS 1.6, QuakeLive, even Vanilla Doom on Windows98 (yes!!!) and other games like Diablo II etc. I often get this warm feeling when the mouse and my hand feel together as one (like hand/mouse love making, best thing after porn for a nerd














).
I had this with the MS 3.0, I now have it with this mouse even better imo.
And seriously, 1800dpi is fine. I went from a MS 3.0 to this without a problem. Sometimes, it has to do with the fps the game you're playing is running at. For example, I was running CS 1.6 @100 fps, I changed to 125fps and







it totally changed the feeling in-game.

Try different things, it's worth the time I tell you.


----------



## Tuny

yeah 1800 dpi is way too sensitive for me too
im using 450 right now, but it is said that at 1800dpi deathadders performs their best

so what sensitivity should i use with 1800dpi to make it the same as 450dpi?

Warfield please report here after you have aplied the hyperglides on you DA, i think i will have to do the same, bacause the drag of it was terrible right out of the box

about the LOD, im using at 450dpi with a black mousepad and i get used to it, doesnt even bother me anymore, but if the tape mod solves it 100% i might look at it later
im afraid that the tape will make the tracking worse


----------



## Warfield

So far I've placed one piece of scotch tape. Seems to lower the LOD a bit but drags more. I'll reattempt it after I get the hyperglides and let you know.


----------



## GuiGeek

Sensitivity is a matter of taste. Now, WINDOWS sensitivity is something else. I always leave it at 6/11. Works fine this way, there's enough possibilites with the in-game sens or mouse driver sens not to change the windows default sens.

Now, you NEED mouse skates + tape to get the DA to work properly.
I personally have used this fix and that fix, and I don't feel any difference with the tracking from both methods. I stick with the second one, and I use a QcK Heavy from Steelseries. Some people say it affects the tracking, I say it depends on the kind of tape you use! I have plenty of them at home (for some random reason) and some did affect the tracking and some don't!

I use a blurry tape and scratch it progressively with scissors to get the LOD I want.


----------



## Tuny

thanks man, i will order some hyperglides anyway, cause this draging makes me mad


----------



## jesusboots

I'm having an issue with my death adder 3500

Any time I have the driver suite installed, after a few hours of use, the mouse works perfectly. However, after the 3-4 hour mark. It keeps disconnecting. Around every 10 seconds it will disconnect, and then reconnect. Which makes it pretty much useless. I like the mouse, but if I cannot use the driver suite I may as well have gotten a cheaper mouse.

Has anyone else had this issue, or a possible fix? Before I have to take this back to the store?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusboots*
> 
> I'm having an issue with my death adder 3500
> Any time I have the driver suite installed, after a few hours of use, the mouse works perfectly. However, after the 3-4 hour mark. It keeps disconnecting. Around every 10 seconds it will disconnect, and then reconnect. Which makes it pretty much useless. I like the mouse, but if I cannot use the driver suite I may as well have gotten a cheaper mouse.
> Has anyone else had this issue, or a possible fix? Before I have to take this back to the store?


Check your USB selective suspend settings.


----------



## jesusboots

Alrite. I just disabled it. I'll reinstall drivers, reboot, and report back.

Razor site is currently not loading correctly. Had to reset router.

Alrite. Back installed and set up the way I want it to be. Testing. I'll check back in another few hours.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusboots*
> 
> Alrite. I just disabled it. I'll reinstall drivers, reboot, and report back.
> Razor site is currently not loading correctly. Had to reset router.
> Alrite. Back installed and set up the way I want it to be. Testing. I'll check back in another few hours.


Good luck


----------



## jesusboots

That seems to have worked. Though while the computer was offed I switched out a usb keyboard for a ps/2 keyboard. Not really certain if that would have also made a difference.


----------



## MangosTea

Just curious, but which type of surface woud a 3.5g work best on? Plastic or cloth, or identical?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusboots*
> 
> That seems to have worked. Though while the computer was offed I switched out a usb keyboard for a ps/2 keyboard. Not really certain if that would have also made a difference.


It could be either or both.

The idea is that your USB controller tries to power down the USB to a sleep state when not actively in use. What triggers inactivity is often quite sketchy, doubly so on overclocked hardware. Even worse, powering back up from a sleep state on a device that is designed to never sleep (such as ANY razer mouse) pretty much always causes issues.

On the other hand, it could be that you were simply overtaxing a particular bus. In which case, removing the keyboard power draw from it could have fixed it. Either way, glad its working!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MangosTea*
> 
> Just curious, but which type of surface woud a 3.5g work best on? Plastic or cloth, or identical?


As I recall, the DA was originally paired up with the Mantis, which is a dark cloth pad. I use mine on a Goliathus which is a flat black pad. Never have any issues. Don't see any reason to switch to a hard pad. Why eat through mouse feet and make your wrist uncomfortable for no reason right?


----------



## MangosTea

Actually, I like my sphex for its smoothness. Havn't tried the Goliathus speed yet, but didnt really like my friends Qck.


----------



## Warfield

Hyperglides came in. Placed them on top of the stock feet. So much better! No more drag. I tried using the tape fix but it seemed like it was having trouble registering subtle movements. I'll try to replace it again today and test. I did love the reduced LOD though. Honestly, if they just replaced the stock feet with taller teflon glides and reduced LOD, would be the perfect mouse for most IME 3.0 users.

Still trying to figure if I'm better off at 450 DPI 6/11 or 1800 3/11 using MarkC Fix. Been reading that there is a lot of acceleration issues under 1800. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## DeMS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> Hyperglides came in. Placed them on top of the stock feet. So much better! No more drag. I tried using the tape fix but it seemed like it was having trouble registering subtle movements. I'll try to replace it again today and test. I did love the reduced LOD though. Honestly, if they just replaced the stock feet with taller teflon glides and reduced LOD, would be the perfect mouse for most IME 3.0 users.
> Still trying to figure if I'm better off at 450 DPI 6/11 or 1800 3/11 using MarkC Fix. Been reading that there is a lot of acceleration issues under 1800. Can anyone confirm this?


I'm interested that you point where you saw those remarks about accel issues under 1800CPI on a DA3.5G.

As far as I can tell all of the DA's perform best at 1800CPI & 500Hz.


----------



## Scozzers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> Hyperglides came in. Placed them on top of the stock feet. So much better! No more drag. I tried using the tape fix but it seemed like it was having trouble registering subtle movements. I'll try to replace it again today and test. I did love the reduced LOD though. Honestly, if they just replaced the stock feet with taller teflon glides and reduced LOD, would be the perfect mouse for most IME 3.0 users.
> Still trying to figure if I'm better off at 450 DPI 6/11 or 1800 3/11 using MarkC Fix. Been reading that there is a lot of acceleration issues under 1800. Can anyone confirm this?


Hi.
I've been using the 3g v2 DA for about a year and a half now and besides my own experiences I've also done a fair bit of "research" (ie trawling through a multitude of forum threads, reviews etc).
The front page of this thread doesn't actually say whether the BE is v3 pcb or v2 pcb but I'm assuming from the info given that it's v3 which means 450 dpi on your mouse will actually be 450 dpi and not 520 dpi (cheers for that info btw OP). In regard to your set up and question, I can provide the following info. Take it as you wish.

DAs perfect contol speed is lower at 900 dpi and lower still at 450 dpi - unless you're mister super swipe, this shouldn't be an issue. I've read a post from a pro CS player (Karrigan?) saying that he used the DA at 450 dpi with no issues. He also went on to say that most other pros he knew, that used the DA, used it at 450 dpi "one way or another" (meaning either 1800 dpi 3/11 or 450 dpi 6/11).
Stacking mouse skates reduces the DAs ability to track at high speeds.
Using scotch tape (cellotape to me) reduces the DAs ability to track at high speeds.
I would guess then, that stacking skates AND using scotch tape AND using 450 dpi is probably a bad idea, especially if you're mister super swipe ... but y'know ... give it a whirl.





 .. claims acceleration problems at 450 dpi. I've not experienced this but haven't used it at 450 dpi extensively. I've also read that the mousing surface can sometimes cause this. Again, give it a whirl.
As I've said, during the periods of time where I've used the DA at 450 dpi, I haven't noticed any adverse acceleration BUT it always felt different and I could never get the speed right even with the correct dpi vs sens calculations. The OPs info that it's actually 520 dpi goes a long way to explaining this.
There are many many reviews with charts and graphs and many many forums with differing info. The majority of which will tell you what I've just told you. I can't think of anything else right now and this is the second typing of all this since my first attempt got completely wiped when I tried to submit = / grrr. I may have left something out but I hope what's here is of some use.
Cheers.


----------



## Warfield

Wow, very nice post. +Rep to you good sir. I'll be playing around with the tape a bit. I don't think I'll be hitting the max tracking speed since I didn't really hit it with the IE 3.0. I play at 450 dpi, 6/11 windows, and 1.3-1.6 in CS:S at 1920x1200. I don't think I'm a super sweeper. I'll have to check how far it takes for a 360. I used the IE 3.0 while I was waiting on the hyperglides and I really missed the low LOD. If I can manage to lower the LOD without sacrificing tracking too much, I'll be happy. I just wanted to make sure I was using the most optimal settings for 450.

Debating if its worth just relearning how to aim with 1800 DPI.


----------



## Scozzers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> Wow, very nice post. +Rep to you good sir. I'll be playing around with the tape a bit. I don't think I'll be hitting the max tracking speed since I didn't really hit it with the IE 3.0. I play at 450 dpi, 6/11 windows, and 1.3-1.6 in CS:S at 1920x1200. I don't think I'm a super sweeper. I'll have to check how far it takes for a 360. I used the IE 3.0 while I was waiting on the hyperglides and I really missed the low LOD. If I can manage to lower the LOD without sacrificing tracking too much, I'll be happy. I just wanted to make sure I was using the most optimal settings for 450.
> Debating if its worth just relearning how to aim with 1800 DPI.


=) Thank you.
Funnily enough I just recieved some hyperglides too. Took about a fortnight to arrive and came in an envelope from singapore lol (with no alcohol swab, I might add =/). I ordered them for different reasons though. I haven't noticed any dragging of the mouse underside and I reckon it's something that would be majorly noticable. I haven't put them on yet.
One thing I forgot to mention is that when I tried 450 dpi, I tried both with the drivers and without and ... it might just be me but .. it did seem to feel better without (driverless is generally the route I go anyway), so there's another avenue of testing for you XD
If, in the end, you decide there is no discernable difference, and you don't just play one game, then stick with 450 dpi. For the simple reason that there are quite a few games that use raw input where the in game sensitivity slider doesn't go low enough for 1800 dpi to be comfortable (which is why, once again I find my self on DA discussion threads). Also, there was one instance for me where 1800 dpi + low in game sens resulted in neg acceleration that was virtually eliminated when I dropped to 450 dpi. It was subsequently fixed but it was a pita at the time.
Um, I'd check how far it takes for a 180 not a 360, since that puts you exactly where you were looking in the first place and imho being able to do that doesn't have enough practical uses to justify raising your sensitivity to the point where you can achieve that in one swipe = )

Cheers again. Happy fragging.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scozzers*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. claims acceleration problems at 450 dpi. I've not experienced this but haven't used it at 450 dpi extensively. I've also read that the mousing surface can sometimes cause this. Again, give it a whirl.
> As I've said, during the periods of time where I've used the DA at 450 dpi, I haven't noticed any adverse acceleration BUT it always felt different and I could never get the speed right even with the correct dpi vs sens calculations. The OPs info that it's actually 520 dpi goes a long way to explaining this.
> There are many many reviews with charts and graphs and many many forums with differing info. The majority of which will tell you what I've just told you. I can't think of anything else right now and this is the second typing of all this since my first attempt got completely wiped when I tried to submit = / grrr. I may have left something out but I hope what's here is of some use.
> Cheers.


Mr shoober is both correct and misinformed. The lower steps of the DA likely have lower max tracking speeds, but he may be ignoring the engine limitations of goldsrc with specific testing.

There was a claim negative accel @ 1800 CPI + 3/11, but it sounds like a issue with the resolution and or FPS he is pulling. (Not entirely mouse limited at this point.) 1800 CPI is inherently 1800 CPI with all windows notches. Just multiplied x "0.25" (3/11) instead of "1" (6/11). Quite similar to how the lower steps of the DA are achieved on the controller level. (ignoring the max speed implications)


----------



## elbandito

been using DA:BE for about a month now, using it on 450DPI 6/11 at 19" 1440x900
replacing the stock feet with PerfectGlideHD on Talent, personally don't mind with the LOD.
before DA:BE, I've been using Xai for a year and a half, the truth is, i like 'em both, but the downside on DA:BE (at least for me) is, the scroll wheel is a tad too loose compare to Xai, and the cable is a bit to thin, that I'm afraid it'd break eventually, because i carry it with me and roll the cable, again, compare to Xai, and, don't have an on-board memory. Besides that, really doesn't feel a downgrade for me, who uses Xai, love the tracking, love the grip.

Why can't razer Synapse 2.0 support DA's? that'd be a huge things for DA's user since DA doesn't have on-board memory thingy. try to email but there's no reply


----------



## Sencha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scozzers*
> 
> =) Thank you.
> Funnily enough I just recieved some hyperglides too. Took about a fortnight to arrive and came in an envelope from singapore lol (with no alcohol swab, I might add =/). I ordered them for different reasons though. I haven't noticed any dragging of the mouse underside and I reckon it's something that would be majorly noticable. I haven't put them on yet.
> One thing I forgot to mention is that when I tried 450 dpi, I tried both with the drivers and without and ... it might just be me but .. it did seem to feel better without (driverless is generally the route I go anyway), so there's another avenue of testing for you XD
> If, in the end, you decide there is no discernable difference, and you don't just play one game, then stick with 450 dpi. For the simple reason that there are quite a few games that use raw input where the in game sensitivity slider doesn't go low enough for 1800 dpi to be comfortable (which is why, once again I find my self on DA discussion threads). Also, there was one instance for me where 1800 dpi + low in game sens resulted in neg acceleration that was virtually eliminated when I dropped to 450 dpi. It was subsequently fixed but it was a pita at the time.
> Um, I'd check how far it takes for a 180 not a 360, since that puts you exactly where you were looking in the first place and imho being able to do that doesn't have enough practical uses to justify raising your sensitivity to the point where you can achieve that in one swipe = )
> Cheers again. Happy fragging.


Yeah I just got a new set in with no swab either. Seriously <3 hyperglide though


----------



## hella

****! I've been MIA for a while and I'm back in action. Over the next few days I'll be going through this thread and picking out information that could be added to the wiki.

Additionally if anyone has any better pictures or things they want added please send me a PM.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penguana*
> 
> I just have have two quick questions about the 3.5g:
> Firstly, I used to own one (for about a week, but it sadly had to be returned because of a faulty right click, that's not putting me off another on though) and I noticed that whilst it had a nice shape, the sides got slippery. Now I didn't really get a chance to game during that week, just general windows usage, but it was slippery in my hands. I just want to know whether people feel the 3.5g gets too slippery to use in game or not (it always felt like I was about to lose grip of the mouse but never did). I guess this is a preference based opinion, but still, do those who use their 3.5g feel it gets stupidly slippery when gaming?
> Second question: I returned mine because of a faulty right click, but that isn't the only reason. I also found that the mouse seemed to heat up (get significantly warmer than it should from my hand resting on it), and it wasn't exactly comfortable or beneficial for my already slippery hands. Now, it was only truly noticeable on the area just above the pulsating logo, but surely one little LED wouldn't produce a warm (considerably warm) feeling on the top of the mouse. So would it have been a fault with mine, or is it a problem inherent with all deathadders because of the lights, and is it fixed in the black edition?
> Thanks. This is probably the best place to ask this kind of question, so that's why I'm asking.


Hey buddy, I don't know if you're still reading this but I have some answers fory ou.

The sides of the normal deathadder are shiny and will attract grime no matter how clean you are. Switching to the Black Edition fixes this as the sides are rubberized. I probably only have to clean the Black Edition sides once every 3 weeks as opposed to multiple times a day for the standard edition deathadder.

With regards to heat my normal edition also had this. Try turning off the LED with the razer drivers. If you're against razers software you can always open up the mouse and yank out the led. Problem solved.

Also, the standard edition heats up easier than the black edition. It's purely a matter of the shell; I use 3G V3 internals with a disconnected LED in the Black Edition shell and have no heating problems whatsoever.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> ****! I've been MIA for a while and I'm back in action. Over the next few days I'll be going through this thread and picking out information that could be added to the wiki.
> Additionally if anyone has any better pictures or things they want added please send me a PM.


I followed your lead and stuck my old 1800dpi internals into a black edition shell when the shell to the 1800dpi broke. Some pics and stuff 6 or so pages ago might be useful.









I've got more (and higher quality) if wanted.


----------



## hella

What a great addition to the thread. You're fortunate that you had the 3G V3 deathadder as the 3G V2 requires you to hack away at the BE case to make it fit.

I'll be adding these tomorrow. Thanks for the pics dude!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> What a great addition to the thread. You're fortunate that you had the 3G V3 deathadder as the 3G V2 requires you to hack away at the BE case to make it fit.
> I'll be adding these tomorrow. Thanks for the pics dude!


NP! I've got a V2 as well sitting on my other computer, So I was able to be somewhat picky, although I'm lucky its the V3 that broke right?









If you want the original pics (higher res) let me know. also check out my profile (i think? if not they're in my camera's SD card) for some more pics that I never added to this thread.

Oh also I'd like to add support for your claim that the V3 shell is inferior - My V2 was slightly defective straight from the factory (but not enough to warrant me going a couple weeks without it for an RMA) so a year or two later I picked up another (the now broken V3) when I built a new rig. The V2 is still in perfect shape where as the V3 obviously broke itself, and in a much shorter time frame.

Lastly, have you considered adding some info on the front page regarding "fixing" the shortcomings of the DA? Namely its lift-off and belly-drag? I've personally got a strip of magic-tape over the sensor hole and doubled up on mouse feet. Made it a thousand times better.


----------



## hella

That's not a bad idea considering this is the deathadder megathread. Nothing's off limits. That's awesome you noted similar observations in build quality between the V2 and V3 deathadders. The more information we can confirm (or deny) the more we can learn about our mouse. A+ for reading the megathread top-to-bottom too!

*Edit:* The main post has been updated. I've rewritten most of to be more noob-friendly and while the post didn't have much technical jargon it's much easier to read to the average consumer.

Formatting has been worked on and the page shuold be must easier to navigate. A table of contents has been added to help people find what they're looking for. Unfortunately OCN doesn't allow internal linking so users will have to scroll to find the corresponding section.

Tomorrow I'll add a section on how to make a *3G* Deathadder Black Edition with the help of Zero4549's pics.


----------



## tjangel07

Is this the right way to open the top part of a DA?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjangel07*
> 
> Is this the right way to open the top part of a DA?


Oh, that top part made me problems.
I still don't think it is 100% safe to get it off, without the buttons breaking.
At least not without cutting the parts off which determine the highest point of them.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> Oh, that top part made me problems.
> I still don't think it is 100% safe to get it off, without the buttons breaking.
> At least not without cutting the parts off which determine the highest point of them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjangel07*
> 
> Is this the right way to open the top part of a DA?


I haven't tried to do it myself, but there seem to be 5 clips that hold the top face on the body. Presumably, one could gently unclip each one and just lift the top off. You need to open up the body and remove the top PCB fist. Don't take my word for it though, there could be some unseen components involved.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> That's not a bad idea considering this is the deathadder megathread. Nothing's off limits.


Awesome. BTW I tried testing the results of the magic tape+doubled skates on my 3G BE. Doesnt track at 1CD. Appears to stop tracking at roughly 1.5 *business cards* (it'll track perfectly with 1, no tracking with 2, tracks if I use two in front and one in back - its a bit sloped buy the sensor is dead center so it should be roughly valid.)


----------



## Ukkooh

Just came to ask what is the BEST small or medium sized mousepad for deathadder? Going to buy a deathadder soon, but I don't think it would track well on my desk.








Max. budget is around 50€. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I also would like to know the native cpi of DA, since I'm going to make it track as good as it can.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Just came to ask what is the BEST small or medium sized mousepad for deathadder? Going to buy a deathadder soon, but I don't think it would track well on my desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Max. budget is around 50€. Thanks in advance.
> Edit: I also would like to know the native cpi of DA, since I'm going to make it track as good as it can.


For the 3.5G Deathadder, stock DPI is set at 1800. You can unlock 3,500 DPI with the razer software.

Before I answer your question about the mousepad, tell me, are you looking for a hard pad or cloth pad?


----------



## Ukkooh

I don't have any preferences, but I've heard that hard pads chew through the feet of the deathadder fast. If that is true a cloth pad it is then.
I'm going to put hyperglides to it though, so if those are resistant to hard pads it shouldn't really matter. My mousing area is unfortunately limited to 270mm X 270mm so it can't be bigger than that.


----------



## hella

That's incredibly tiny in terms of gaming mousepads. The QCK, which is even too small for me is larger at 32cm x 27cm.

To be honest the Deathadder's sensor, the Avago S3888 works well on almost any surface you throw at it. Given that I think this question would be better suited for the general mouse discussion thread since tracking issues won't be a problem for any mousepad you buy.


----------



## Zero4549

The only half decent mousepads know of that are that small are artisan pads and the razer kabuto. The artisans are actually wonderful if you can get a hold of one. The kabuto is just ok - its mostly aimed at being ultra portable and for that it is great.


----------



## aynjell

So is the deathadder 3.5g partial to cloth or hard pads? I have a razer goliathus already, and am curious if I should get a different pad for my second try at a deathadder.


----------



## Zero4549

The deathadder has a wonderful sensor that can track on most surfaces well enough that you wont be able to tell much of a difference between one quality pad and another.

In this case, factors such as size, glide, durability, and comfort are more important.

That said, I still wouldn't suggest something like using it on a bare glass table.

So to answer your question: grab a hard pad if you want to try one - it'll almost certainly glide a lot quicker and wont feel as sticky if you get sweaty, but it isnt really going to improve the tracking quality, and you'll start chewing through mouse feet quicker.


----------



## aynjell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> The deathadder has a wonderful sensor that can track on most surfaces well enough that you wont be able to tell much of a difference between one quality pad and another.
> In this case, factors such as size, glide, durability, and comfort are more important.
> That said, I still wouldn't suggest something like using it on a bare glass table.
> So to answer your question: grab a hard pad if you want to try one - it'll almost certainly glide a lot quicker and wont feel as sticky if you get sweaty, but it isnt really going to improve the tracking quality, and you'll start chewing through mouse feet quicker.


You answered my question, I'll keep my razer clothie for now.


----------



## hella

I'd have to agree, the cloth pad tracks more than amazing for the deathadder. I personally prefer cloth pads since they don't rape the bottom of your mouse and your mouse feet.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> I'd have to agree, the cloth pad tracks more than amazing for the deathadder. I personally prefer cloth pads since they don't rape the bottom of your mouse and your mouse feet.


or your wrist


----------



## pruik6

hello TS,
has the R Deathadder black same left and right buttons sensitivity respons click as the 3.5G version.
I felt both from friends on different computer and i thought the black edition buttons are more responsive am i right?


----------



## hella

The Deathadder 3G, 3.5G, and 3.5G Black Edition all use the same switches for the left/right mouse button.

There's a few things that can make the sensitivity appear different:

First of all, the amount of wear on the mouse will affect the tactility of the click. I've compared new and old deathadders and the differences in response almost makes it feel like a different mouse.

Secondly, the materials used in the Black Edition top makes the click feel different. I've experienced this first hand when I took my Deathadder 3G V3 internals and placed them in a Black Edition shell. The clickyness did feel different because of the materials used in the shell.

Hope this helps buddy.


----------



## pruik6

Okay thanks for the answer.
Is the switch the only difference that make mouse clicks different between mouses or are in side dthe mouse more things like springs or something that make the stifness and pressure sensitivity different .
I'm little bit geek like to know things.

Btw nice collections deathdadders you have when maybe there coming a 4.5G version ,then you make your collection again complete?


----------



## hella

The two things that affect click feel are the switch and the materials of the mouse button. Different switches will have a different innate feel and the mouse button will will modify this innate tactility.

Think, the Steelseries Xai, Deathadder, G400, and MX518 all use the same switch yet they all feel different.

I believe the black edition uses different, cheaper, and mushier sidebutton switches than the Deathadder 3G.


----------



## Diogenes5

Quote:


> First of all, the amount of wear on the mouse will affect the tactility of the click. I've compared new and old deathadders and the differences in response almost makes it feel like a different mouse.


Yep. I believe a lot of razer mice have this problem. My abyssus was gently used for 2 months but the left click started being noticeably stiffer than the right click. It is somewhat annoying. Razer mice tend to use the body-is-the-button design as well and where you apply pressure on the mouse will also affect the kind of tactile feedback you get.
Quote:


> Secondly, the materials used in the Black Edition top makes the click feel different. I've experienced this first hand when I took my Deathadder 3G V3 internals and placed them in a Black Edition shell. The clickyness did feel different because of the materials used in the shell.


I believe this is because of the body-is-the-button effect. The tactile response varies on the shape of your mouse and the material used for the top plate.
Quote:


> Think, the Steelseries Xai, Deathadder, G400, and MX518 all use the same switch yet they all feel different.


I believe they all use omron switches. The CM storm uses it too and feels more tacticle than the above because it has separated, distinct buttons for left and right click instead of using the Chassis. Switches are important but trying out the mouse itself is even more important as they tend to be more (or less) than the sum of their parts.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Think, the Steelseries Xai, Deathadder, G400, and MX518 all use the same switch yet they all feel different.


I doubt that. The Xai had the hardest to press buttons I've ever used on a mouse (but I haven't used a Zowie AM). When I had a deathadder 3g or a G5, I never noticed anywhere near as much pressure being required.


----------



## hella

Actually you're right, the steelseries xai uses D2F-J01F Omron switches while all the others use the Omron D2FC-F-7N. However they are very similar and noticed this when I took them apart. IMO the shape and materials of the xai contribute more to the difference than the switch itself.


----------



## Skylit

delete


----------



## Skylit

Not all Xai are created equal.








I think a majority of them are labeled with D2FC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Think, the Steelseries Xai, Deathadder, G400, and MX518 all use the same switch yet they all feel different.
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt that. The Xai had the hardest to press buttons I've ever used on a mouse (but I haven't used a Zowie AM). When I had a deathadder 3g or a G5, I never noticed anywhere near as much pressure being required.
Click to expand...

It's more to do with the shell design like stated.


----------



## hella

Thanks for the confirmation Skylit. I remembered the Xai having D2FC-F-7N switches when I opened mine. However I recently looked up what switches the Xai had and I found some pictures with D2F-J01F switches.

Looks like Steelseries varies it up with the switch lot.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation Skylit. I remembered the Xai having D2FC-F-7N switches when I opened mine. However I recently looked up what switches the Xai had and I found some pictures with D2F-J01F switches.
> Looks like Steelseries varies it up with the switch lot.


The D2F-J01F are inferior to the D2FC in my opinion anyways.
I couldn't stand them at all - very mushy and the activations point comes very late.
I think even TTC's are better.


----------



## Zero4549

Wear levels and shell do indeed make all the difference on the clickyness of the deathadders.

After using my 3G V3 for a couple years the click was somewhat mushier. Sticking it inside the shell of the black edition has actually made it feel more crisp.

On the other hand, the click on the actual BE switches is still much sharper when you don't have any shell on either. (I played around with them both before sticking them in their respective shells)


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Wear levels and shell do indeed make all the difference on the clickyness of the deathadders.
> After using my 3G V3 for a couple years the click was somewhat mushier. Sticking it inside the shell of the black edition has actually made it feel more crisp.
> On the other hand, the click on the actual BE switches is still much sharper when you don't have any shell on either. (I played around with them both before sticking them in their respective shells)
> 
> This is even more true for the scroll wheels.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> The D2F-J01F are inferior to the D2FC in my opinion anyways.
> I couldn't stand them at all - very mushy and the activations point comes very late.
> I think even TTC's are better.


That's pretty surprising, TTC's are probably some of the worst switches I've ever used.


----------



## pruik6

Why they not make a deathadder just with customize dpi so with memory chip into it but use just the normal sensor no philips twin eyes but just infared.
I reallly want deathadder with like 600 to 700 dpi should be nice for me


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pruik6*
> 
> Why they not make a deathadder just with customize dpi so with memory chip into it but use just the normal sensor no philips twin eyes but just infared.
> I reallly want deathadder with like 600 to 700 dpi should be nice for me


I'm sorry I don't quite understand your English (no offence) but from what I gather, you're asking why they don't make a deathadder with an infrared sensor and custom DPI settings.

Well, the short answer to that is that all Deathadders use an infrared sensor. None of them use the PTE.

They all also have several DPI settings to pick from. As far as I know, the reason that they are at pre-defined intervals rather than completely custom is because the sensor simply tracks best and requires the least amount of calculations when set to these specific intervals. Of course, the optimum tracking is at the sensor's native resolution of 1800dpi.

Will they ever make one with completely custom DPI settings? Highly unlikely. You would be better off finding an original V2 and setting it to its lowest setting (although it is stated to be 450, it is really closer to 550).


----------



## hella

I agree, they do need to add the chip that lets you custom choose your DPI to the deathadder. However given it's popularity I highly doubt Razer would do this since the mouse is already selling extremely well.


----------



## pruik6

yeah but they can make mid end mouse and a high end deathadder with some extra functions. for example


----------



## end0rphine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pruik6*
> 
> yeah but they can make mid end mouse and a high end deathadder with some extra functions. for example


They called that the mamba lol


----------



## reaper12

Hi,

I just got my razor deathadder 3.5g about a few hours ago, and I love the shape and feel of the mouse, but the buttons are terrible. I wonder do I have a faulty one? Or would using the wrong driver and firmware version cause problems?

ok, here is the story, After taking ages to decide what mouse I wanted, I finally picked the razor deathadder black edition. What actually came was the razor deathadder respawn. Now after some more reading I think the BE and respawn are the same except for the rubber on the side of the BE edition. Or have I got that wrong?

My problems are. (I am right handed BTW)

1. Trying to play counterstrike I notice that sometimes the left mouse button just stops working. I am pressing but there is nothing happening. The mouse button doesnt click when this happens. I haven't noticed it on windows yet, but I don't press the button as often.

2. the right mouse button is very sensitive, even just resting my finger on it can sometimes cause it to work. It doesn't make any noise, but yet things happen, like in cs putting the silencer on my M4.

3. when I first plugged it in the dpi in the driver panel only went up as 1800. But after a reboot it went away. Whenever I try to update the firmware the software tells me that it's for 3.5g mouse only.

So are any of these problems common place? can they be fixed by me without sending the mouse back?

I would think this would be an issue, but would the mouse have problems with USB 3 ports? and works better with USB 2?

Thanks for reading.


----------



## axipher

Just my experience with my 3.5G, can;t believe I didn't post here sooner.

Here's my system
- Windows 8 Consumer Preview
- ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX with Fatal1ty mouse port
- Latest firmware on mouse
- Latest Windows 7 driver and software
- F-Stream software for setting the USB's poll rate and seeing how fast the mouse is actually polling based on usage
- Windows 7 12.1 Catalyst drivers + USB filter

My preferred settings are:
- 1800 DPI
- 1000 MHz pooling
- tad above 7 Windows sensitivity
- no acceleration

I'm able to top out at 960 MHz polling in F-Stream software, no driver issues, no mouse lag or freezing, all buttons work and can be re-configured.


----------



## Darkpriest667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper12*
> 
> Hi,
> I just got my razor deathadder 3.5g about a few hours ago, and I love the shape and feel of the mouse, but the buttons are terrible. I wonder do I have a faulty one? Or would using the wrong driver and firmware version cause problems?
> ok, here is the story, After taking ages to decide what mouse I wanted, I finally picked the razor deathadder black edition. What actually came was the razor deathadder respawn. Now after some more reading I think the BE and respawn are the same except for the rubber on the side of the BE edition. Or have I got that wrong?
> My problems are. (I am right handed BTW)
> 1. Trying to play counterstrike I notice that sometimes the left mouse button just stops working. I am pressing but there is nothing happening. The mouse button doesnt click when this happens. I haven't noticed it on windows yet, but I don't press the button as often.
> 2. the right mouse button is very sensitive, even just resting my finger on it can sometimes cause it to work. It doesn't make any noise, but yet things happen, like in cs putting the silencer on my M4.
> 3. when I first plugged it in the dpi in the driver panel only went up as 1800. But after a reboot it went away. Whenever I try to update the firmware the software tells me that it's for 3.5g mouse only.
> So are any of these problems common place? can they be fixed by me without sending the mouse back?
> I would think this would be an issue, but would the mouse have problems with USB 3 ports? and works better with USB 2?
> Thanks for reading.


I had no similar problems even when plugged into a usb 3 port. I think you have got a bad death adder (if the firmware and drivers are updated through the deathadder customization program)

If you have up to date firmware and drivers Id RMA the mouse.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper12*
> 
> Hi,
> I just got my razor deathadder 3.5g about a few hours ago, and I love the shape and feel of the mouse, but the buttons are terrible. I wonder do I have a faulty one? Or would using the wrong driver and firmware version cause problems?
> ok, here is the story, After taking ages to decide what mouse I wanted, I finally picked the razor deathadder black edition. What actually came was the razor deathadder respawn. Now after some more reading I think the BE and respawn are the same except for the rubber on the side of the BE edition. Or have I got that wrong?
> My problems are. (I am right handed BTW)
> 1. Trying to play counterstrike I notice that sometimes the left mouse button just stops working. I am pressing but there is nothing happening. The mouse button doesnt click when this happens. I haven't noticed it on windows yet, but I don't press the button as often.
> 2. the right mouse button is very sensitive, even just resting my finger on it can sometimes cause it to work. It doesn't make any noise, but yet things happen, like in cs putting the silencer on my M4.
> 3. when I first plugged it in the dpi in the driver panel only went up as 1800. But after a reboot it went away. Whenever I try to update the firmware the software tells me that it's for 3.5g mouse only.
> So are any of these problems common place? can they be fixed by me without sending the mouse back?
> I would think this would be an issue, but would the mouse have problems with USB 3 ports? and works better with USB 2?
> Thanks for reading.


That's not right. The buttons are VERY tactile and clicky. They take some (not a lot, but you still have to TRY) force to press and when you press it you know it. The only time I've had a deathadder fail to recognize clicks properly is when the side button on one of mine literally snapped in half and was no longer making proper contact with the switch. Even then I was able to repair it with some glue.

Your issues with the drivers may or may not have something to do with USB3. I have no idea TBH but I'm somewhat doubtful. I've never had issues with the drivers on any of my Deathadders on any of the computers I've used them on.

Lastly, you were shipped the wrong item to begin with, and it isn't even working. Why roll over and take it? Send it back for sure, demand the correct product, and a new one, not some broken return item.


----------



## end0rphine

Here in Australia, a black edition is more expensive than a respawn. I wouldn't take that.


----------



## reaper12

Thanks for the replies guys.

@darkpriest and @Zero4549 Cheers guys, just making sure that the mouse was the problem. I knew it was, but had to make sure anyway, because I hate returning things, I am am going to hate going back to the logitch G9 that I have because the deathadder is just so perfect for my hand and really accurate. I am half tempted to take it apart and see if it's just a simple dirt problem. RMA is a pain in the ass for me as I have to return it to a different country.

@end0rphine really? well, here the Respawn is more expensive than the black edition









And I understand what you guys are saying that I got the wrong mouse, but, it's not really an issue as I was debating between the two and went for the BE because it was cheaper







I just wish it worked is all. I have tried it in a USB 2 port since and still got the same issue and the software still doesn't see what firmware I have installed and the updating program keeps saying I don't have a 3.5G mouse









Yeah I guess it's RMA time. Damn!!


----------



## wongt4

Is this mouse good for RTS games like Starcraft 2 for its price? It seems like a better mouse for FPSes since its pretty bulky

Are there better mice on the market at a DA's price point for RTS games (plan to also use it to play some FPS games later)? I have avg sized hands and use fingertip-claw grip


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaper12*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys.
> @darkpriest and @Zero4549 Cheers guys, just making sure that the mouse was the problem. I knew it was, but had to make sure anyway, because I hate returning things, I am am going to hate going back to the logitch G9 that I have because the deathadder is just so perfect for my hand and really accurate. I am half tempted to take it apart and see if it's just a simple dirt problem. RMA is a pain in the ass for me as I have to return it to a different country.
> @end0rphine really? well, here the Respawn is more expensive than the black edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I understand what you guys are saying that I got the wrong mouse, but, it's not really an issue as I was debating between the two and went for the BE because it was cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wish it worked is all. I have tried it in a USB 2 port since and still got the same issue and the software still doesn't see what firmware I have installed and the updating program keeps saying I don't have a 3.5G mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I guess it's RMA time. Damn!!


Definitely return it bro, you have a defective unit. No mouse should have faulty and inconsistent clicks. Are you able to return it to the store? While razer's RMA is quite long (and frustrating) the mouse will eventually get to you. Be prepared to write 7-8 emails and be prepared to answer the same question a few times; support speed-reads these emails and you'll find yourself repeating yourself many times.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongt4*
> 
> Is this mouse good for RTS games like Starcraft 2 for its price? It seems like a better mouse for FPSes since its pretty bulky
> Are there better mice on the market at a DA's price point for RTS games (plan to also use it to play some FPS games later)? I have avg sized hands and use fingertip-claw grip


I'm an FPS and an RTS/Action-RTS player and I can tell you the DA is better as an RTS mouse. Claw grip / fingertip grip doesn't really matter in RTS since units are easy to click on with just palm grip alone. Fast-paced FPS games benefit the most from fingertip grip since miniscule movements can determine whether or not you make the shot.

Keep in mind that while FPS games do benefit the most from fingertip grip individual playstyle and preference matter more than theoretical mice models. For example, while most FPS players say fingertip grip is the best for FPS games, YZ50, one of the best TF2 scouts of all time, with some of the best twitch-aiming skill in the world palm-grips a Deathadder.

What works out for you is based on your preference. If fingertip/clawgrip is your preferred choice I would steer clear of the Deathadder. If you're into small mice, which for me is the most comfortable choice when I like to fingertip grip, I would try making a Kinzuadder. It has the Deathadder's accuracy in a small Kinzu formfactor.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> I'm an FPS and an RTS/Action-RTS player and I can tell you the DA is better as an RTS mouse. Claw grip / fingertip grip doesn't really matter in RTS since units are easy to click on with just palm grip alone. Fast-paced FPS games benefit the most from fingertip grip since miniscule movements can determine whether or not you make the shot.
> Keep in mind that while FPS games do benefit the most from fingertip grip individual playstyle and preference matter more than theoretical mice models. For example, while most FPS players say fingertip grip is the best for FPS games, YZ50, one of the best TF2 scouts of all time, with some of the best twitch-aiming skill in the world palm-grips a Deathadder.
> What works out for you is based on your preference. If fingertip/clawgrip is your preferred choice I would steer clear of the Deathadder. If you're into small mice, which for me is the most comfortable choice when I like to fingertip grip, I would try making a Kinzuadder. It has the Deathadder's accuracy in a small Kinzu formfactor.


Oddly enough, I fingertip my deathadders in fps and other quick paced action games (assassins creed for instance). Otherwise I palm it. I have very small hands and yet I still find it is the most comfortable mouse when you account for BOTH positions. I wouldn't really want to claw a deathadder, but then I can't understand the appeal of clawing a mouse in general.

At any rate the DA is an excellent mouse for ANYTHING as long as it doesn't require special needs. The biggest downside to the deathadder is it's lack of additional features. If you want to play an MMO exclusively with the 300 buttons found on mouse like the naga or the RAT MMO, then the deathadder just wont work. If you're expecting to instantly change dpi on the fly, it is again a bad choice. For everything else, it has an excellent shape and sensor.


----------



## aynjell

I find that the deathadder is almost designed for claw grip. I can wrest my palm on the back slope, and use my fingers in a claw like fashion. So far I'm liking it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongt4*
> 
> Is this mouse good for RTS games like Starcraft 2 for its price? It seems like a better mouse for FPSes since its pretty bulky
> Are there better mice on the market at a DA's price point for RTS games (plan to also use it to play some FPS games later)? I have avg sized hands and use fingertip-claw grip


ANY game benefits from having a more accurate sensor, and the shaping of the deathadder lends to being used in any of the 3 major grip patterns.

I am going to test the crap out of it tonite playing some starcraft, although using it at work is proving to be fairly enjoyable.


----------



## hella

There's no doubt about the fact that you can fingertip grip or clawgrip a Deathadder. However smaller mice, especially kinzuadders, are much more comfortable to fingertip grip and a smaller mouse allows more room for fingertip control. Keep in mind i have big ass, 8.5" hands.


----------



## Scozzers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sencha*
> 
> Yeah I just got a new set in with no swab either. Seriously <3 hyperglide though


Make a massive difference, don't they.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongt4*
> 
> Is this mouse good for RTS games like Starcraft 2 for its price? It seems like a better mouse for FPSes since its pretty bulky
> Are there better mice on the market at a DA's price point for RTS games (plan to also use it to play some FPS games later)? I have avg sized hands and use fingertip-claw grip


Try out the Abyssus.


----------



## aquaris

Hello Deathadder owners. I have a question for you, especially for the BE owners. That portion around the sensor (it says: 3.5G Infrared sensor . precision 3500 DPI [hope u got it]) started to peel off. I read all this thread and i noticed that this happens with most BE cos of the very thin feet, so the bottom is scratching my goliathus control edition which isn't good for that written part around the sensor(aesthetic wise) nor for my gliding experience. In my country (Romania) i can only find the Corepad ones, hope they're OK cos i just ordered them(2 sets). Now i'm asking you: Should i put both of the sets onto the default ones? so that i have 3 layers (lowering the LOD as effect would be also good)? or one set onto the default is enough? or remove the default and put both new sets? Appreciate the upcoming help from u guys! Cheers.


----------



## end0rphine

I think 1 set on top of default should be enough. putting 2 sets might be too high. If 1 set isn't enough, tape fix it. Don't bother wasting the second set, save it in case.

And yes corepad are great skates.


----------



## Vikhr

I once tried stacking mouse feet on a Deathadder and it gave me weird sensor behavior. The mouse seemed to be running at a lower CPI and it was really easy to make it skip, keep in mind I did this with a tape fix in place so it may behave differently if you just stack the feet without using a tape fix.


----------



## James N

Corepads are really good plus you get 2 sets which is really great. But the best skates i have ever used glidewise are still the GlidePro http://www.alugraphics.de/shop/accessories/glidePRO-mouseglides--241.html (even though they dont offer customized glides). Just a sidenote, if some of you guys are low sense gamers who prefer hardpads this one http://www.alugraphics.de/shop/gaming/gamerPRO/gamerPRO-XXL-ESL--227.html is the best pad with the best tracking i have ever owned (and it comes with a 10 years warranty as well).


----------



## Zero4549

Coprepads are fine. ANY pure Teflon pas will work. They don't even necessarily have to be the right shape (although it's much more aesthetically pleasing and ensures a uniform height with the originals, for stacking purposes)

At any rate, I've got 2 sets of hyperhlides on my original v2 3G DA WITHOUT tape fix, and a set of corepads on top of the original feet on my BE WITH tape fix(technically its a V3 3G in the shell of a BE).

Both setups work flawlessly (perfect tracking, no drag) on my Black Goliathus Speed and Green/Black Mantis Control pads.

Doubling feet will *slightly lower* the DPI/CPI. It will not degrade performance even with tape (unless you are using a v2 3G DA. in other words the black edition is safe) so once you get used to it and compensate it is no problem.

I would not triple the feet. I see no reason to as doubling will fix glide issues and tripling is a waste of feet and will SIGNIFICANTLY lower DPI and may cause issues with the tape fix.


----------



## aquaris

Alright, thank you all for help. I'll put one set over default feet and save the other for days which won't come cos im playing on soft pad and always will ;d.
Now about that tape fix, i've never done that, is it really good to do for the tracking and overall performance of the mouse? I would try, but i dont really know which type to use and where exactly to place it..


----------



## end0rphine

Place some tape in the red area. Careful not to cover the sensor 'cause _that_ will affect tracking. Try some scotch tape.


----------



## aquaris

i only have transparent scotch







i suppose its useless, right?


----------



## end0rphine

Transparent scotch is what you're after seeing as how you'll be covering all the light given the angle the hole bends inwards.

EDIT: woops just re-read it. Yeh you're gonna want *magic tape* sorry for the confusion. That's the tape that looks slightly cloudy.


----------



## Virgle144

Nice, guide, miss my death adder works for a couple hours then shuts of, and have to wait a day to use it.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquaris*
> 
> i only have transparent scotch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i suppose its useless, right?


You can make do with it if you really cant afford to go to the store and pick up a small roll of magic tape. what you will need to do is take one small piece and repeatedly stick it and unstick it to the non-sticky side of another piece until it's sticky side gets all cloudy and "useless", then cut it so its only the size you want to use and stick's non-sticky side onto the middle of the sticky side of the other larger piece of tape, and a stick that whole thing where you want it.


----------



## chaosdude

Excellent write dude! I love my Razer Deathadder. I have the 3.5 G and it has lasted me many years.


----------



## aquaris

The corepads over the default ones lowerd the LOD nicely. before it was 3 CDs - tracking ; 4CDs - stopped! Now its 2CDs - tracking ; 3CDs - stopped. But cool idea u presented there Zero4549, i'll think about it if i'll want to lower the LOD even more.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquaris*
> 
> The corepads over the default ones lowerd the LOD nicely. before it was 3 CDs - tracking ; 4CDs - stopped! Now its 2CDs - tracking ; 3CDs - stopped. But cool idea u presented there Zero4549, i'll think about it if i'll want to lower the LOD even more.


I've got the LOD on mine down to the point where even 1 CD doesn't track but it tracks on the pad just fine. Corepads on top of default Black Edition feet and magic tape over the sensor hole.

That said, I've got a 3g sensor inside instead of the normal 3.5g so that by itself shaves off about 1-2CDs


----------



## thuNDa

http://www.overclock.net/t/1211083/tape-trick-for-lower-liftoff-distance-lod-with-optical-mice


----------



## Warfield

I want to replace the braided cable that comes with the BE. Think this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Mouse-Cable-Miscrosoft/dp/B005KYVA4Q

Should be fairly straightforward I'm assuming.


----------



## end0rphine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> I want to replace the braided cable that comes with the BE. Think this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Mouse-Cable-Miscrosoft/dp/B005KYVA4Q
> Should be fairly straightforward I'm assuming.


If it's a microsoft cable (same as WMO/IO/IE) then it's going to be a stiffer cable.


----------



## Warfield

I was hoping to find a deathadder non braided cable but since I use a bungee, the stiffness wouldn't really affect me.


----------



## Ukkooh

Got my Deathadder Black edition today and so far have loved it. I thought my aim would be off really bad for about a week but I was wrong. The Deathadder feels much more accurate over my mx518 even though I am using it with the same DPI. I've got some hyperglides for my DA, but I'm not sure if I should install them on top of the stock feet or replace them completely. What do you think?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Got my Deathadder Black edition today and so far have loved it. I thought my aim would be off really bad for about a week but I was wrong. The Deathadder feels much more accurate over my mx518 even though I am using it with the same DPI. I've got some hyperglides for my DA, but I'm not sure if I should install them on top of the stock feet or replace them completely. What do you think?


On top of stock feet. One of the DA's biggest issues it that it's belly drags across surfaces (the bottoms are ever so slightly convex and the stock feet are extremely thin and resting in shallow wells, pretty much invalidating them). The DA's (at at least the newest DA's, it's not much of an issue with the older versions) only other glaring issue is it's high LOD.

Doubled up feet improve the glide of the mouse by an astounding degree AND reduce the LOD by a distance equal to the thickness of the added feet. The only "downside" is that doing so will effectively lower the DPI at each setting. Keep in mind that when I say slightly, I mean _*just slightly*_. After 2 years with stock feet, I decided to double them up and it took less than 2 days to fully adjust and completely forget about it.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> On top of stock feet. One of the DA's biggest issues it that it's belly drags across surfaces (the bottoms are ever so slightly convex and the stock feet are extremely thin and resting in shallow wells, pretty much invalidating them). The DA's (at at least the newest DA's, it's not much of an issue with the older versions) only other glaring issue is it's high LOD.
> Doubled up feet improve the glide of the mouse by an astounding degree AND reduce the LOD by a distance equal to the thickness of the added feet. The only "downside" is that doing so will effectively lower the DPI at each setting. Keep in mind that when I say slightly, I mean _*just slightly*_. After 2 years with stock feet, I decided to double them up and it took less than 2 days to fully adjust and completely forget about it.


Would only using hyperglides fix the belly drag issue? So far I haven't had any problems with the DA's high LOD and I'd like to keep the tracking as accurate as possible. Thanks for the response.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Would only using hyperglides fix the belly drag issue? So far I haven't had any problems with the DA's high LOD and I'd like to keep the tracking as accurate as possible. Thanks for the response.


As in replacing the stock feet with hyperglides as opposed to putting the hyperglides on top of stock? MAYBE, but only on a hard mousepad. The hyperglides are only a fraction of a mm thicker than the stock feet.

Doubling will not degrade tracking at all, it will merely lower the DPI. Instead of 1800 you will have something more like 1730.

If slightly increasing sensitivity or increasing the size of your mouse movements by a fraction of a cm is an issue for you BUT you still want to reduce belly drag, I'd suggest putting a ring of teflon tape right around the sensor hole. it won't completely stop the mouse from dragging (in fact the added material will cause some dragging in and of itself), but it will ensure that the point of contact has as little friction as possible (making the dragging feel smoother).


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> As in replacing the stock feet with hyperglides as opposed to putting the hyperglides on top of stock? MAYBE, but only on a hard mousepad. The hyperglides are only a fraction of a mm thicker than the stock feet.
> Doubling will not degrade tracking at all, it will merely lower the DPI. Instead of 1800 you will have something more like 1730.
> If slightly increasing sensitivity or increasing the size of your mouse movements by a fraction of a cm is an issue for you BUT you still want to reduce belly drag, I'd suggest putting a ring of teflon tape right around the sensor hole. it won't completely stop the mouse from dragging (in fact the added material will cause some dragging in and of itself), but it will ensure that the point of contact has as little friction as possible (making the dragging feel smoother).


Looks like the best option is to stack them. Thank you for your very informative replies. Glad to have people like you helping us noobs out.


----------



## hella

Zero, I've been trying to think about how I could add your pictures to the guide to do the DA 3G V2 / Black Edition conversion and none of the pictures show what you need to do. They're just internals and I felt the pictures would confuse more people than help.

If you wanna write a small section on how to do the conversion I'll add it to the first post and credit it to you.

On another note, looks like moderators changed our thread title... we're now the Deathadder Megathread... not the UNOFFICIAL Deathadder Megathread. Grats to everyone for supporting our favorite gaming mouse!


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Got my Deathadder Black edition today and so far have loved it. I thought my aim would be off really bad for about a week but I was wrong. The Deathadder feels much more accurate over my mx518 even though I am using it with the same DPI. I've got some hyperglides for my DA, but I'm not sure if I should install them on top of the stock feet or replace them completely. What do you think?


Grats on the new purchase!

I was worried about purchasing my first Deathadder since I have used the MX518's and G5's for literally 5+ years.

Replacement feet are a must. My stock Deathadder feet lasted 3 months tops on a CLOTH pad before I started scratching up the bottom plastic. Hyperglides are great but are a bit pricy. Try these from eBay, they work great and only cost $4.00 shipped for two sets.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Mamba-DeathAdder-Gaming-Mouse-Feet-Teflon-Black-/320589338565?pt=AU_Input_Peripherals&hash=item4aa49d17c5


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> Zero, I've been trying to think about how I could add your pictures to the guide to do the DA 3G V2 / Black Edition conversion and none of the pictures show what you need to do. They're just internals and I felt the pictures would confuse more people than help.
> If you wanna write a small section on how to do the conversion I'll add it to the first post and credit it to you.
> On another note, looks like moderators changed our thread title... we're now the Deathadder Megathread... not the UNOFFICIAL Deathadder Megathread. Grats to everyone for supporting our favorite gaming mouse!


I'm considering opening it up again to remove the LED under the razer logo or make it functional. I actually transplanted that from the V3 shell into the BE shell with the intention of eventually scraping away a bit of the plastic under the logo area to make it transparent and never got around to it, so as it is's it's just creating heat and adding some (negligible) weight for no reason).

If I ever stop being lazy I'll take some nice new noob friendly pics while I'm at it


----------



## hella

Lol, I did the same thing. The lower LED just makes your hand hot and the blinking is minorly annoying. Plus we don't need it and can't see it with the black edition conversion.


----------



## Ukkooh

Again I have a guestion regarding the Deathadder Black edition: When i scroll my mouse wheel it is almost silent and feels smooth but some of the "gears" make a louder clonck and they also feel a little bit different. Is this normal and if not will it lead to the failure of the scroll wheel? This has been bothering me a lot, because I swap my weapons in FPS games with the scroll wheel and I am a little paranoid.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Again I have a guestion regarding the Deathadder Black edition: When i scroll my mouse wheel it is almost silent and feels smooth but some of the "gears" make a louder clonck and they also feel a little bit different. Is this normal and if not will it lead to the failure of the scroll wheel? This has been bothering me a lot, because I swap my weapons in FPS games with the scroll wheel and I am a little paranoid.
> Thanks in advance.


Not normal. The DA uses a TTC mechanical encoder which is what gives it it's tactile feel. It looks just like this (although the PCB is not the same, the wheel encoder more or less is. this is a pic of an abyssus)



That little bump in the metal leaf (it runs along the top of that circular plastic disc) applies pressure to little teeth on the plastic disk. The wheel turns that disk and therefore has to overcome the pressure from the bump in the metal leaf, giving it the feeling of notches in the wheel.

If those notches are uneven, either the metal leaf is damaged or the teeth on the disk are damaged. either way you should return the item if it's still under warranty.


----------



## snafu22

I have a question regarding DA's driver. Currently i am using a kinzuadder with the mac edition DA pcb mounted and 1.39 NDC firmware. Everything works fine until i installed the latest windows driver that i downloaded from razer's web (v3.05), the sensor skips (it stopped tracking for a second or so) regularly everytime the driver is installed, if I uninstall the driver the skipping issue is gone. Is it because i'm using windows driver instead of mac's? Or is my DA is having the driver issue like you stated in the OP?

I really need the driver to work because i usually use 400 dpi and 1800 dpi is just too fast for me and i don't really wanna mess with the windows sensitivity slider.

Any replies and solutions will be much appreciated


----------



## end0rphine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snafu22*
> 
> I have a question regarding DA's driver. Currently i am using a kinzuadder with the mac edition DA pcb mounted and 1.39 NDC firmware. Everything works fine until i installed the latest windows driver that i downloaded from razer's web (v3.05), the sensor skips (it stopped tracking for a second or so) regularly everytime the driver is installed, if I uninstall the driver the skipping issue is gone. Is it because i'm using windows driver instead of mac's? Or is my DA is having the driver issue like you stated in the OP?
> I really need the driver to work because i usually use 400 dpi and 1800 dpi is just too fast for me and i don't really wanna mess with the windows sensitivity slider.
> Any replies and solutions will be much appreciated


I thought profiles were saved to the deathadder? Meaning you wouldn't need to have the driver open.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snafu22*
> 
> I have a question regarding DA's driver. Currently i am using a kinzuadder with the mac edition DA pcb mounted and 1.39 NDC firmware. Everything works fine until i installed the latest windows driver that i downloaded from razer's web (v3.05), the sensor skips (it stopped tracking for a second or so) regularly everytime the driver is installed, if I uninstall the driver the skipping issue is gone. Is it because i'm using windows driver instead of mac's? Or is my DA is having the driver issue like you stated in the OP?
> I really need the driver to work because i usually use 400 dpi and 1800 dpi is just too fast for me and i don't really wanna mess with the windows sensitivity slider.
> Any replies and solutions will be much appreciated


I'm unaware of this driver issue and I've personally never experienced it. I use both 1.39 NDC firmware and v3.05. Does your mouse only skip when you install it, or whenever your computer opens the driver program?


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Again I have a guestion regarding the Deathadder Black edition: When i scroll my mouse wheel it is almost silent and feels smooth but some of the "gears" make a louder clonck and they also feel a little bit different. Is this normal and if not will it lead to the failure of the scroll wheel? This has been bothering me a lot, because I swap my weapons in FPS games with the scroll wheel and I am a little paranoid.
> Thanks in advance.


A scroll wheel should NEVER be smooth on a deathadder. I have a two year old Deathadder 3G V2 internals I put in my black edition and even after that much use the scroll wheel still has tactile clicks. It's MUCH smoother than a stock one, especially when scrolling fast, but when I scroll slowly I still feel grooves.

Get this checked out buddy. You are either over-exaggerating your progem (which I doubt) or you need a new unit.


----------



## snafu22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *end0rphine*
> 
> I thought profiles were saved to the deathadder? Meaning you wouldn't need to have the driver open.


Sadly, DA has no onboard memory. Can't save/switch profiles without driver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> I'm unaware of this driver issue and I've personally never experienced it. I use both 1.39 NDC firmware and v3.05. Does your mouse only skip when you install it, or whenever your computer opens the driver program?


I haven't tested yet, was afraid it would destroy the sensor if i keep the driver installed.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> A scroll wheel should NEVER be smooth on a deathadder. I have a two year old Deathadder 3G V2 internals I put in my black edition and even after that much use the scroll wheel still has tactile clicks. It's MUCH smoother than a stock one, especially when scrolling fast, but when I scroll slowly I still feel grooves.
> Get this checked out buddy. You are either over-exaggerating your progem (which I doubt) or you need a new unit.


By smooth I meant that the gears are all the same. They feel tactile and I love the scroll wheel except those malfunctioning steps of it. The bad steps slide in without the tactile feel and make a clonck sound when the wheel stops. Sorry for not being able to describe the sound properl. English isn'y my native language. Sadly I haven't had the time to return my DA, but definitely going to do it.


----------



## Snakesoul

hello everyone,

Been reading the last pages and a question popped up....

So to get the LOD "fixed", one of the options is to put some tape on the sensor (from what i understood, the other option is to put some extra skates on top of the original ones).
I had the deathadder black edition and the fix i saw was to cover the whole hole... is this correct? does it affect it's performance?
Or do i have to just tape part of the sensor hole?

I made like this - (not my video but i followed this ....







)






Also can i put the tape on the sensor and also put another pair of skates? does it affet also the mouse performance?

Please feel free to comment and teach me


----------



## axipher

I've got a situation on my hands, after about 2 years of heavy use, my 3.5G has worn out pads and the scroll wheel has lost some of its resistance.

The rear pad is worn down enough that if I apply any downward force on the mouse, the actual bottom casing, right around where the sensor is actually rubs on my mousepad.

The sensor is still nice and accurate and doesn't twitch at all and the 5 buttons are all very responsive and have no loose play, still very tactile.

I'm not so worried about the scroll wheel as I rarely use it other than web-browsing, but the bottom pads really bug me, well the "lack of" bottom pads.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> hello everyone,
> Been reading the last pages and a question popped up....
> So to get the LOD "fixed", one of the options is to put some tape on the sensor (from what i understood, the other option is to put some extra skates on top of the original ones).
> I had the deathadder black edition and the fix i saw was to cover the whole hole... is this correct? does it affect it's performance?
> Or do i have to just tape part of the sensor hole?
> I made like this - (not my video but i followed this ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also can i put the tape on the sensor and also put another pair of skates? does it affet also the mouse performance?
> Please feel free to comment and teach me


Tape + Doubled feet is perfectly fine.

I did that to my my 3G Black edition (which already has a lower LOD than the factory BE) and there are absolutely no issues so doing it on a normal factory BE will be even "safer".

That said, I use a BLACK CLOTH MOUSEPAD. If you are using a hard white pad for example, that could change the results somewhat.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I've got a situation on my hands, after about 2 years of heavy use, my 3.5G has worn out pads and the scroll wheel has lost some of its resistance.
> The rear pad is worn down enough that if I apply any downward force on the mouse, the actual bottom casing, right around where the sensor is actually rubs on my mousepad.
> The sensor is still nice and accurate and doesn't twitch at all and the 5 buttons are all very responsive and have no loose play, still very tactile.
> I'm not so worried about the scroll wheel as I rarely use it other than web-browsing, but the bottom pads really bug me, well the "lack of" bottom pads.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5564/pad-125/Hyperglide_Mouse_Skates_RZ-2_-_6_Skates_-_DeathAdder_DA.html

Problem solved.


----------



## Snakesoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Tape + Doubled feet is perfectly fine.
> I did that to my my 3G Black edition (which already has a lower LOD than the factory BE) and there are absolutely no issues so doing it on a normal factory BE will be even "safer".
> That said, I use a BLACK CLOTH MOUSEPAD. If you are using a hard white pad for example, that could change the results somewhat.
> 
> Lo Zero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your fast reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try it.. .need to buy a spare of skates... is corepad ok? on my country they don't sell hyperglides anymore and shipping becomes expensive...
> The way i fixed it with tape, is that ok? can i cover the whole sensor "hole"?
> i've always used black cloth mousepads.... currently using ozone ground level and love it... it's a bit faster than qck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once again thanks =)


----------



## Zero4549

Yep, corepads are great. I've got corepads on my "be" and hyperglides on my "original".

The Hypers are a bit rounder at the edges which makes them smoother at first, but over time they wear out faster. After about 2 weeks of breaking them in, the corepads are almost as smooth as hypers and simply last longer.

So over all, both are great. Hypers are slightly "better" at first but wear out faster while cores have a brief break-in period but last longer.

As for the sensor hole, you can completely cover it with magic tape just like you did. It'll work fine. You can also half-cover it if you chose. If you half cover it you can use non-transparent tape.

Personally I prefer to fully cover it with magic tape but the other method is great if you cant find magic tape easily.


----------



## Snakesoul

Well then i'll get the corepads for my BE (right now i'm not using it, skates are a little worn out and i'm trying the G400). Hyperglides for some reason aren't for selling where i live, maybe corepad got over the mouse skates market.... (well i can get 2 sets for 7\8€)...
Well i prefer to cover the whole sensor, since it's better to prevent dust to get in the way... (well at least i think it kind of protects), also i'm using magic tape.

Once again thank you so much for your help







+ rep


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Well then i'll get the corepads for my BE (right now i'm not using it, skates are a little worn out and i'm trying the G400). Hyperglides for some reason aren't for selling where i live, maybe corepad got over the mouse skates market.... (well i can get 2 sets for 7\8€)...
> Well i prefer to cover the whole sensor, since it's better to prevent dust to get in the way... (well at least i think it kind of protects), also i'm using magic tape.
> Once again thank you so much for your help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> + rep


No problem. Have fun with the much improved mousing experience when it's all done









BTW, don't bother removing your current skates, just put the corepads right on top of them and apply some firm even pressure for a few min to get them to adhere well. It will give you a better glide and a lower LOD.


----------



## r0ach

I tried doubling mouse feet when I had an original 3g to prevent scraping and it felt like crap, everything just felt a little off. Doesn't sound like a good option to me.

Maybe it was just how the mouse felt in hand, like driving a Crown Victoria on 24 inch rims or something.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I tried doubling mouse feet when I had an original 3g to prevent scraping and it felt like crap, everything just felt a little off. Doesn't sound like a good option to me.
> Maybe it was just how the mouse felt in hand, like driving a Crown Victoria on 24 inch rims or something.


The doubled feet very slightly lower the effective DPI at any given setting. If you are absolutely married to your exact DPI you wont want to double your feet.

Aside from that, the ONLY change is how smooth it glides (most people would consider smoother glide to be better, but for some people it is unwanted because it also means less stopping power when you want to suddenly screech your movement to a halt).

Perhaps you are in one (or both) of those two very small groups of people, or perhaps you were just thrown off by the sudden change (even if it was for the better had you gotten used to it)

EDIT: did you have the ORIGINAL 3g? As in the V2 PCB, not the more common V3 3g? If so, that particular run of the DA has a significantly lower LOD than the other variants. It is possible that doubled feet at that point could introduce minor tracking errors depending on your mouse pad!


----------



## Ch4nKyy

Hi,
I'm planning on buying a DA.
I'm between a 3G Guild Wars edition (43EUR) and a 3.5G BE (57EUR)
I Assume the Guild Wars edition doesn't make any technical difference, does it?

And a few questions:
1) I guess the GW edition is a 3G V2?
2) Can I disable the light of the GW edition (w/o opening it)?
3) The default LOD of the 3G is better, right? And I still could do the tape trick to improve it even more, right?
4) The tape trick does not affect the performance at all? Hard to believe...
5) How much is the sensor affected by the color of the mousepad? I've got a Roccat Sense and I noticed some (laser) mice perform worse at the color edges.
Should I get a blank black mousepad like a QCK or Everglide Titan or is the DA fine with it?
6) I currently use a CM Storm Sentinel and I really love the glide ability compared to Razer mice I used before.
Therefore I'm quite concerned about this aspect, but I don't want to spend too much money.
Do you think it would be possible to use other mouse skatez? I still got the Sentinels backup skatez.
I thought, like adding them at the front/sides/middle to increase the skate surface or cutting them, so they roughly fit the original ones.
Did somebody ever try that?^^
If not, whether I want or not, I'll have to buy extra skatez. Are the ones by corepad also good? Cuz hyperglides are hard to get here.
And how durable are they, if I use a cloth pad? Cuz my Sentinel's skatez float as awesome as on the first day, but I can remember, my Lachesis was worn out so fast on the hard pad, it rather scratched than glided.
7) After all, would you recommend a 3G or a 3.5G? I guess it's laser vs surface, isn't it?


----------



## Infinite Jest

Thanks to all who suggested doubling up the feet. I bought the cheapie pair recommended from eBay and slapped them on an it feels like a whole new mouse. No more belly drag scratching!

Sent from my HP TouchPad using Tapatalk 2 Beta-5


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ch4nKyy*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm planning on buying a DA.
> I'm between a 3G Guild Wars edition (43EUR) and a 3.5G BE (57EUR)
> I Assume the Guild Wars edition doesn't make any technical difference, does it?
> And a few questions:
> 1) I guess the GW edition is a 3G V2?
> 2) Can I disable the light of the GW edition (w/o opening it)?
> 3) The default LOD of the 3G is better, right? And I still could do the tape trick to improve it even more, right?
> 4) The tape trick does not affect the performance at all? Hard to believe...
> 5) How much is the sensor affected by the color of the mousepad? I've got a Roccat Sense and I noticed some (laser) mice perform worse at the color edges.
> Should I get a blank black mousepad like a QCK or Everglide Titan or is the DA fine with it?
> 6) I currently use a CM Storm Sentinel and I really love the glide ability compared to Razer mice I used before.
> Therefore I'm quite concerned about this aspect, but I don't want to spend too much money.
> Do you think it would be possible to use other mouse skatez? I still got the Sentinels backup skatez.
> I thought, like adding them at the front/sides/middle to increase the skate surface or cutting them, so they roughly fit the original ones.
> Did somebody ever try that?^^
> If not, whether I want or not, I'll have to buy extra skatez. Are the ones by corepad also good? Cuz hyperglides are hard to get here.
> And how durable are they, if I use a cloth pad? Cuz my Sentinel's skatez float as awesome as on the first day, but I can remember, my Lachesis was worn out so fast on the hard pad, it rather scratched than glided.
> 7) After all, would you recommend a 3G or a 3.5G? I guess it's laser vs surface, isn't it?


1) it's a 3G V3
2) you can disable the light in the driver(scrollwheel light and logo separatly)
3) I don't exactly know
4) depends on which kind of tape-trick you use
5) DA should be fine on most surfaces
6) don't cut them(sharp edges afterwards), just stick them over/in the actual place meant for the feet
7) i would get a 3G as i like non-braded cords better


----------



## Ch4nKyy

i dont really care about the cable type.
i found a DA BE for 52€, I thought about buying it, because the surface sounds a bit more comfortable and durable to me.
yet, i'm concerned about the lod. my sentinel's default is like 0.6mm and i think everything else would just freak me out








do you think a comparable value is achievable by extra mouse skatez and tape trick? w/o worsening the performance ofc.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ch4nKyy*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm planning on buying a DA.
> I'm between a 3G Guild Wars edition (43EUR) and a 3.5G BE (57EUR)
> I Assume the Guild Wars edition doesn't make any technical difference, does it?
> And a few questions:
> 1) I guess the GW edition is a 3G V2?
> 2) Can I disable the light of the GW edition (w/o opening it)?
> 3) The default LOD of the 3G is better, right? And I still could do the tape trick to improve it even more, right?
> 4) The tape trick does not affect the performance at all? Hard to believe...
> 5) How much is the sensor affected by the color of the mousepad? I've got a Roccat Sense and I noticed some (laser) mice perform worse at the color edges.
> Should I get a blank black mousepad like a QCK or Everglide Titan or is the DA fine with it?
> 6) I currently use a CM Storm Sentinel and I really love the glide ability compared to Razer mice I used before.
> Therefore I'm quite concerned about this aspect, but I don't want to spend too much money.
> Do you think it would be possible to use other mouse skatez? I still got the Sentinels backup skatez.
> I thought, like adding them at the front/sides/middle to increase the skate surface or cutting them, so they roughly fit the original ones.
> Did somebody ever try that?^^
> If not, whether I want or not, I'll have to buy extra skatez. Are the ones by corepad also good? Cuz hyperglides are hard to get here.
> And how durable are they, if I use a cloth pad? Cuz my Sentinel's skatez float as awesome as on the first day, but I can remember, my Lachesis was worn out so fast on the hard pad, it rather scratched than glided.
> 7) After all, would you recommend a 3G or a 3.5G? I guess it's laser vs surface, isn't it?


1) 3G V3

2) Yes, through it's drivers within windows. Takes 2 clicks.

3) Correct - better LOD by default and the tape trick can still be use for further improvement.

4) Depends on the method, but even in the worst case the end result should be very good (hard to notice if noticeable at all for the majority of users)

5) DA sensors (all but the oldest of them anyway) are extremely flexible in terms of mousing surfaces. You shouldn't have any issues.

6) Sure, there's no law saying you cant stick whatever skates you want on it. Keep in mind however that the size, shape, and placement will all have an effect on the dynamics of the mouse. Personally I prefer to simply double up on feet actually designed for a death-adder. Stacking them gives extra lift which VERY much helps glide without changing the other dynamics of the glide or balance of the mouse. Furthermore, the additional height helps improve LOD. Corepads are perfectly fine - I use them on one deathadder and hyperglides on another. No significant difference after initial break-in time. Hypers and Corepads are both fairly durable on a cloth pad, especially when doubled up.

7) Personally I see no reason to pick the 3.5g over a 3g as the 3g has better LOD and they both track best at 1800dpi, making the additional dpi of the 3.5g a completely moot point. However, unlike many others I personally prefer the braided cable on the 3.5g and you might as well.

Obviously the guildwars edition looks different as well. Up to you if that matters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ch4nKyy*
> 
> i dont really care about the cable type.
> i found a DA BE for 52€, I thought about buying it, because the surface sounds a bit more comfortable and durable to me.
> yet, i'm concerned about the lod. my sentinel's default is like 0.6mm and i think everything else would just freak me out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you think a comparable value is achievable by extra mouse skatez and tape trick? w/o worsening the performance ofc.


LOD on the Black Edition is the worst of the whole lot, however it also has the nicest feeling (and possibly most durable) shell. Looks are obviously subjective.

If you want the best of both worlds, and are willing to pay a premium, you can buy both and swap the sensors/PCBs, giving you the wonderful shell of the BE with the superior LOD of the 3G. That is what I did and I couldnt be happier.

And no... you will never get .6mm with perfect tracking on a black edition (unless you swap the sensor and pcb). The 3G however CAN if you double feet AND use tape.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Thanks to all who suggested doubling up the feet. I bought the cheapie pair recommended from eBay and slapped them on an it feels like a whole new mouse. No more belly drag scratching!
> Sent from my HP TouchPad using Tapatalk 2 Beta-5


You're welcome


----------



## Ch4nKyy

regarding 4) the tape trick:
both of you said it depends on the method. what exactly do you mean by that? or shortened: what's the best method to decrease it as much as possible while not touching its perfomance?

yea, i'm between the 3G laser and the 3.5G BE durable and comfy shell.
because i couldnt decide at all, i finally decided to buy both of them (plus corepad skatez), so i can figure it out myself.

i'll probably sell the one i dismiss to a friend, since there are some who are interested in a DA
i like the idea of swapping the best parts, the result would be an awesome 3G BE for me and bascially a normal 3.5G (in a GW shell) - but that would void the guarantee of both, right? :-/


----------



## Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ch4nKyy*
> 
> what's the best method to decrease it as much as possible while not touching its perfomance?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1211083/tape-trick-for-lower-liftoff-distance-lod-with-optical-mice#post_16389304


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ch4nKyy*
> 
> regarding 4) the tape trick:
> both of you said it depends on the method. what exactly do you mean by that? or shortened: what's the best method to decrease it as much as possible while not touching its perfomance?
> yea, i'm between the 3G laser and the 3.5G BE durable and comfy shell.
> because i couldnt decide at all, i finally decided to buy both of them (plus corepad skatez), so i can figure it out myself.
> i'll probably sell the one i dismiss to a friend, since there are some who are interested in a DA
> i like the idea of swapping the best parts, the result would be an awesome 3G BE for me and bascially a normal 3.5G (in a GW shell) - but that would void the guarantee of both, right? :-/


The method derp linked will not have any significant effect on tracking, if any.

The alternative is to cover the whole sensor hole with translucent scotch magictape. This method has PHYSICAL benefits but can degrade performance to a small degree.

Either method will more than likely produce perceptibly identical results in most cases. (the cases where you would have to worry about picking one over the other _due to tracking_ are 1) on surfaces where you are already experiencing less than optimal tracking or 2) if you are a super-low sensitivity gamer who makes huge and fast movements frequently)

As for voiding the warranty - yes it will void both AND there really is no good way as far as I know to get around that. The third screw needed to open the case is dead center under the label sticker and it is seemingly impossible to remove that sticker without any signs of tampering. I personally just gave up and punctured them... but then my 3G is already too old to be under warranty and I cant stand the LOD on an unmodified black edition so it was an easy decision.

It is my personal experience that most issues with a deathadder are due to factory defects. If the thing isnt messed up within a week of use, it likely isn't going to break within it's warranty period. Therefore I'd use each for a week to make sure none of the buttons stick or miss-register, the scroll wheel is properly tactile and the mice are otherwise free of defects, and if all is well, go ahead and make the swap - chances are if you've gotten that far without anything breaking, you won't miss the voided warranty but you will enjoy the improved product!


----------



## aquaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> If the thing isnt messed up within a week of use, it likely isn't going to break within it's warranty period.


I'd like to add something here. I've bought a new DA 3.5G working perfectly in summer 2010 and in summer 2011, in a random day doing usual gaming, the side button (the one closer to the illuminated logo) broke. It didn't have any tactile response anymore, it just went deeply into the mouse without working. I never smash the mouse or anything like that, just gentle gaming. So yes, it can suddenly break before 2y warranty, though it worked perfectly at the beginning. (been having a DA BE without a flaw since the old one broke.)


----------



## tjangel07

Wow I just tried the tape fix. My Deathadder feels like a new mouse now. I love it even more!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquaris*
> 
> I'd like to add something here. I've bought a new DA 3.5G working perfectly in summer 2010 and in summer 2011, in a random day doing usual gaming, the side button (the one closer to the illuminated logo) broke. It didn't have any tactile response anymore, it just went deeply into the mouse without working. I never smash the mouse or anything like that, just gentle gaming. So yes, it can suddenly break before 2y warranty, though it worked perfectly at the beginning. (been having a DA BE without a flaw since the old one broke.)


That happened to my 3G V3, but only after almost 3 years of use. (While playing assassin's creed 2 and smashing the crap out of that button to sprint/climb, lol)

At any rate that is a design flaw in the way that button is attached to the rest of the body. You can easily repair it with some nail glue (ask your mum, sister, girlfriend, wife for some).

That's a good point though that should probably be mentioned more often - that "lower" side button is fragile! do not press it in too hard unless you're willing to RMA or repair it yourself!


----------



## atluu

Is the BE that bad? Not sure which Deathadder to buy.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atluu*
> 
> Is the BE that bad? Not sure which Deathadder to buy.


BAD? no, not at all.

The only "downsides" to the BE over the others are the higher LOD and lack of LEDs.
The LOD is fixable to a decent degree with tape and doubled skated, and the LED's are subjective.

ANY deathadder really needs the doubled skates anyway to fix the universal DA belly-drag issue so it's really just a matter of tossing a piece of 10 cent tape on your sensor and being done with it unless you are part of the super picky crowd like myself who actually care about the LEDs and that last 1-2mm of LOD.


----------



## hella

Bros, I finally got my hand on a mouse I've been searching for for a LONG time.

Brand new Deathadder 3G Mac Edition with the lunar white LEDs. Jesus christ this thing is sexy. I probably won't be turning this one into a black edition 3G.

And Ch4nKyy, both Zero and I use black edition 3G deathadders which are a ******* dream. I wouldn't be worried about voiding your warranty since you're using your old Guild Wars 3G internals anyway, and that's far past the deadline. If your old mouse breaks you'll still have the new 3.5G BE internals you can replace it with.

Make sure you have a Deathadder 3G V3 (and by the sound of it you, do since the GW edition is V3) since the swap process will be a painless drop in. If you have a 3G V2 you'll have to hack the inside of the BE case to make the cable stop and the top PCB fit.


----------



## Skylit

Edited out. GIving out too much info.


----------



## hella

Interesting stuff dude. The first picture is, indeed a 3G V2.

I'll probably be adding a section for this.. the more information we have... the better. I just have to figure out how to fit it into the current iteration of the Deathadder Megathread.

That's also surprising that these all come from the same OEM manufacturer. Perhaps this means that razer's bad QC rap may or may not hold true for the Deathadder.


----------



## Skylit

Edit.


----------



## ca4life

Hey guys, which one should I get?

- Razer Deathadder Black Edition with a Coolermaster Blue LED 120mm fan for 55$ shipped
OR
- Logitech G9x for 70$ shipped (no coolermaster fan)

I have a dilemma between these two >.< Please help meee
I made a thread about this in details also : http://www.overclock.net/t/1239820/logitech-g9x-vs-razer-deathadder-black-edition


----------



## Zero4549

You're posting in a Deathadder thread, the DA is cheaper, and you get a fan too.

What do you think the answer you're going to get will be? lol


----------



## ca4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> You're posting in a Deathadder thread, the DA is cheaper, and you get a fan too.
> What do you think the answer you're going to get will be? lol


Lol yeah you're right, but I thought maybe some G9x owners would say their opinion. Hmm, I guess I'll buy the DA then. Is Razer's RMA/warranty system good in overall?


----------



## Sinani206

Hi guys: I've had my DeathAdder for just over a year and recently reformatted my computer. My mouse was working fine for a few minutes after the reformat, but now it flashes every few seconds, during which it doesn't move. The flashing corresponds to the current profile (e.g. if I'm on profile 4, it will flash 4 times), so I assume it's some kind of connection issue. I tried plugging it into different ports and it still had the issue and also tried plugging my keyboard into its port and it didn't have the issue. I also tried disabling USB selective suspend, but that didn't work either.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sinani206*
> 
> Hi guys: I've had my DeathAdder for just over a year and recently reformatted my computer. My mouse was working fine for a few minutes after the reformat, but now it flashes every few seconds, during which it doesn't move. The flashing corresponds to the current profile (e.g. if I'm on profile 4, it will flash 4 times), so I assume it's some kind of connection issue. I tried plugging it into different ports and it still had the issue and also tried plugging my keyboard into its port and it didn't have the issue. I also tried disabling USB selective suspend, but that didn't work either.


Have you tried reinstalling DA's and mobo's drivers? Sounds like a driver issue to me. You could also try updating mouse firmware or reflashing if possible.


----------



## DeMS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sinani206*
> 
> Hi guys: I've had my DeathAdder for just over a year and recently reformatted my computer. My mouse was working fine for a few minutes after the reformat, but now it flashes every few seconds, during which it doesn't move. The flashing corresponds to the current profile (e.g. if I'm on profile 4, it will flash 4 times), so I assume it's some kind of connection issue. I tried plugging it into different ports and it still had the issue and also tried plugging my keyboard into its port and it didn't have the issue. I also tried disabling USB selective suspend, but that didn't work either.


Sounds very much like your mouse cable is deataching itself from the PCB or is cut inside (it happens from time to time).

Since it also loads your profile, it could be also a firmware issue, you won't lose anything by trying.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Has anyone ever had a problem with the left button double clicking? Mine has started double clicking about 1 year after I got mine and it really didn't bother me much.. But, another year later it has gotten a lot worse and I'm getting extremely annoyed by it. Any fix? Solutions? I've updated the firmware of it too.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Has anyone ever had a problem with the left button double clicking? Mine has started double clicking about 1 year after I got mine and it really didn't bother me much.. But, another year later it has gotten a lot worse and I'm getting extremely annoyed by it. Any fix? Solutions? I've updated the firmware of it too.


Warranty is expired? Open it up and see if there is any evident physical issue. Send us pics if you aren't sure.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Yes, warranty expired. Alright, I'll get on it.


----------



## Sinani206

Tried old firmware and it didn't work. Then I realized that its a driver issue because now it happens if the driver is already open when I connect and the issue goes away when I close and reopen the driver software. Is there any way to fix this?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sinani206*
> 
> Tried old firmware and it didn't work. Then I realized that its a driver issue because now it happens if the driver is already open when I connect and the issue goes away when I close and reopen the driver software. Is there any way to fix this?


you could always uninstall the drivers once its set up how you like.

A clean re install might do the trick too without forcing you to lose any functionality.


----------



## resis

I came across this picture. What edition is the DA on the left? Haven't seen such before.


----------



## SirDrexl

It's the Voodoo edition. I don't know if the symbol is supposed to represent a game or what.


----------



## Zero4549

Voodoo edition comes from old voodoo gaming PCs. That is their brand logo.


----------



## Ch4nKyy

Hi,
I got my DA and I'm quite satisfied.
The only cons are:
-Side buttons don't act when you click them simultaneously
-LOD is high in contrast to my old mouse and the LOD fix doesn't work, no matter which tape i use or how much of the lense I cover. Any ideas?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ch4nKyy*
> 
> Hi,
> I got my DA and I'm quite satisfied.
> The only cons are:
> -Side buttons don't act when you click them simultaneously
> -LOD is high in contrast to my old mouse and the LOD fix doesn't work, no matter which tape i use or how much of the lense I cover. Any ideas?


You could double up the mouse feet to lower the LOD, if you don't mind the better gliding and slightly lower DPI.


----------



## resis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirDrexl*
> 
> It's the Voodoo edition. I don't know if the symbol is supposed to represent a game or what.


Thanks.


----------



## hella

I have to say, after about 8 months of using my deathadder 3g black edition it's starting to show some beautiful wear. The back where my lower palm meets the mouse is starting to get rough and the thin rubber they put on the grey surface is gone. Underneath is a rough, sandy black plastic that feels great.

The surface actually feels better now than when it did brand new. The rubber does not peel when worn, and visibly, I can't tell where the rubber has gone. Right now, I have to admit that the black edition shell has gotten better with age. The side rubber hasn't peeled yet and is still in great shape.

For those of you who hated the grime in the regular deathadder, the black edition for you. I would recommend any of you to pick up the BE after your standard deathadder hits the dust. Cheers


----------



## woll3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> http://www.kingsis.com/mice.html


Does anyone know which sensor they are putting in their mice?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *woll3*
> 
> Does anyone know which sensor they are putting in their mice?


That really isn't relevant to this thread, but regardless of the sensor those mice look plain terrible, why bother?


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *woll3*
> 
> Does anyone know which sensor they are putting in their mice?


They're an OEM. Anything you desire.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> That really isn't relevant to this thread, but regardless of the sensor those mice look plain terrible, why bother?


Old factory mockups on a webpage that hasn't been updated since the early 2000s.

I'm sure they have more to offer in this day and age. OEM shapes are quite popular with a lot of "brands" btw. Especially when starting off.


----------



## hella

So was the original copperhead sensor (pre-3G) a proprietary, and ****ty kingsis sensor?


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> So was the original copperhead sensor (pre-3G) a proprietary, and ****ty kingsis sensor?


Early Agilent (Avago) 20 pin. Just like the current Deathadder.


----------



## Snakesoul

Hello everyone,

I don't know if it's the right thread, but i'll give it a shot....
So right now i'm using DA BE (also using G400...not sure which one i like best







) and i bought a new mouse pad. A razer goliathus control edition and for some reason the DA don't track as it should. When i'm playibg games like cs s or bf3, the mouse seems to skip. I thought it was because i double the mouse feet, so i returned to my old mousepad, the ozone ground level. When i tested again the mouse worked really well... i can say it tracks perfectly.
Does anyone had any issues with this mousepad? (razer goliathus?) should i change for speed edition?
The G400 for some reason tracks well on both mousepads.

Can someone help me?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I don't know if it's the right thread, but i'll give it a shot....
> So right now i'm using DA BE (also using G400...not sure which one i like best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and i bought a new mouse pad. A razer goliathus control edition and for some reason the DA don't track as it should. When i'm playibg games like cs s or bf3, the mouse seems to skip. I thought it was because i double the mouse feet, so i returned to my old mousepad, the ozone ground level. When i tested again the mouse worked really well... i can say it tracks perfectly.
> Does anyone had any issues with this mousepad? (razer goliathus?) should i change for speed edition?
> The G400 for some reason tracks well on both mousepads.
> Can someone help me?


Absolutely no problems with the Goliathus. I use a Speed edition Gol and a Control edition Mantis (which is really just the previous generation of the goliathus control. Different coloring and no fray-protection on the edges but identical surface texture wise).

Both tested with DA 3G V2, V3, BE, and V2-sensor-inside-BE-shell-with-doubled-feet-and-tape. All work great.

Seems something is wrong with your DA. Did you do any mods (aside from feet)?


----------



## Snakesoul

Lo Zero









Besides the double feet\skates, first i had covered the entire sensor hole (before the skates worn out) and now for testing and after that "skip" feeling, i took out the tape and just left the double feet.... and still skips... on ozone ground level (i think the cloth it's similar to razer speed edition) no problems whatsoever..... it works great.... Also G400 works great with this mousepad... i can say also my aim improved (maybe it's a psychological feeling... but the scores speaks for themselves







)

Another question, with this mousepad does the skates worn faster? Asking this because the mousepad feels like an hardpad... (i don't know how to explain....)


----------



## Zero4549

Feet last pretty long on my razer pads, roughly 1-2 years. They wear slightly faster on the control editions but also tend to wear "rounder" (rather than flatter on the speed editions) which I feel actually gives them a nicer glide.

I cant comment on the ozone pad, I've never used it.

What feet did you use? I use Hyperglides and Core Pads (depending on availability and pricing. All things being equal I'd pick hypers but its really a very minor difference). The replacement feet from Razer are pretty much crap. Dunno about other companies.

If the Ozone pad is working for you, great. Just stick with that I guess if you're good with that. I can't really explain why your Goliathus is skipping. I've got doubled feet, tape, and even a sensor with lower LOD (3G v2) in the same body as your BE and it works fine.

Do you have a lot of dust or grime buildup on your sensor lens? What settings do you use on the drivers / windows?


----------



## tjangel07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> I have to say, after about 8 months of using my deathadder 3g black edition it's starting to show some beautiful wear. The back where my lower palm meets the mouse is starting to get rough and the thin rubber they put on the grey surface is gone. Underneath is a rough, sandy black plastic that feels great.
> The surface actually feels better now than when it did brand new. The rubber does not peel when worn, and visibly, I can't tell where the rubber has gone. Right now, I have to admit that the black edition shell has gotten better with age. The side rubber hasn't peeled yet and is still in great shape.
> For those of you who hated the grime in the regular deathadder, the black edition for you. I would recommend any of you to pick up the BE after your standard deathadder hits the dust. Cheers


That also happened to my Black Edition. I don't like how it feels because the surface is not completely rough.


----------



## Snakesoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Feet last pretty long on my razer pads, roughly 1-2 years. They wear slightly faster on the control editions but also tend to wear "rounder" (rather than flatter on the speed editions) which I feel actually gives them a nicer glide.
> I cant comment on the ozone pad, I've never used it.
> What feet did you use? I use Hyperglides and Core Pads (depending on availability and pricing. All things being equal I'd pick hypers but its really a very minor difference). The replacement feet from Razer are pretty much crap. Dunno about other companies.
> If the Ozone pad is working for you, great. Just stick with that I guess if you're good with that. I can't really explain why your Goliathus is skipping. I've got doubled feet, tape, and even a sensor with lower LOD (3G v2) in the same body as your BE and it works fine.
> Do you have a lot of dust or grime buildup on your sensor lens? What settings do you use on the drivers / windows?


Lo Zero,

Thanks for your reply









I use the corepad ones (you recommend me those ones a few pages back







), because hyperglides are difficult to get on my country and the shipment is very expensive.
Well the ozone it's not much different than the normal qck... it has a little bit better glide and it's cheaper than qck (actually i was impressed by it's quality).
I don't have a lot of dust, especially because i had the sensor covered with tape, I only removed when i double the feet, because tracking seems better without the tape, for some reason i loved the very low LOD but the tracking was very strange.....
I'm using 900dpi\cpi, 6\11 on win7 and acceleration off.

Once again thanks for your help


----------



## tech99

Hi,
Is there any difference between 1000hz polling rate vs 500Hz polling rate other than how many times it updates it position/sec? What it actually transaltes into real-world performance? I'm currently using [email protected], 1080p (DA BE).


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Lo Zero,
> Thanks for your reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use the corepad ones (you recommend me those ones a few pages back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), because hyperglides are difficult to get on my country and the shipment is very expensive.
> Well the ozone it's not much different than the normal qck... it has a little bit better glide and it's cheaper than qck (actually i was impressed by it's quality).
> I don't have a lot of dust, especially because i had the sensor covered with tape, I only removed when i double the feet, because tracking seems better without the tape, for some reason i loved the very low LOD but the tracking was very strange.....
> I'm using 900dpi\cpi, 6\11 on win7 and acceleration off.
> Once again thanks for your help


Can you try 1800 DPI with lower sensitivity in games and see how that works for a few days? It will obviously take some getting used to in windows (don't change the windows settings just yet during this test) but in most well programmed games the lower sensitivity should completely compensate for the higher DPI.

The reason I ask is because the DA (even the 3.5g / 3500dpi versions) track best at 1800.

See if that helps at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech99*
> 
> Hi,
> Is there any difference between 1000hz polling rate vs 500Hz polling rate other than how many times it updates it position/sec? What it actually transaltes into real-world performance? I'm currently using [email protected], 1080p (DA BE).


Polling rate is just like you said, the frequency of it's updates. In theory, it doesn't matter since your monitor is never going to reach or exceed even the lowest polling rate option.

The problem is your display frequency and polling frequency are not synced so even at identical rates, there will always be some minor inconsistencies.

The higher the polling rate, the quicker the mouse will recognize a movement. It will also be able to pick up on small back-and-forth movements which occur quicker than a single period of it's cycle on a lower frequency.

In other words, 1000hz will give you a truer representation of actual mouse movement. Anything lower has a greater chance of slight inconsistencies between your movement and the cursor's movement. The difference is small but it does exist.

That all said, higher polling rate means slightly more CPU power is being used, but assuming you aren't running on a 10MHz processor, its a moot point. High polling rates can also be bad for people with serious micro tremors or really really bad mouse-pads.


----------



## aquaris

I tested many mousepads (cloth) and the best one (at least for DA, havent tested any other mice) is by far Goliathus Control Edition. All of the others have mostly the same texture as QcK, Goliathus speed, Taito etc etc which make them wear out pretty easily (a couple of months). Not the case with Goli Control, 1 year passed and no worn out parts whatsoever. I'll always stick with this pad.
I can't believe your mouse is working well if you're saying it tracks badly on goli control. I've also DA BE, and Corepads over the default feet and it feel just great!


----------



## Ukkooh

Just plugged in my 2nd DA Black Edition. I'm just amazed by how much better this beast feels in my hand after using the G400. Actually this DA feels even better than the DA I had to RMA, because it had a bump on the paint on LMB. Going to use this for a few weeks to see if it works perfectly or not and then going to double up the feet with the hyperglies I already bought. Wish me luck.


----------



## Snakesoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Can you try 1800 DPI with lower sensitivity in games and see how that works for a few days? It will obviously take some getting used to in windows (don't change the windows settings just yet during this test) but in most well programmed games the lower sensitivity should completely compensate for the higher DPI.
> The reason I ask is because the DA (even the 3.5g / 3500dpi versions) track best at 1800.
> See if that helps at all.


Lo Zero,

Yes i'll try and change it to 1800 dpi\cpi and in a few days i'll come back to give my feedback... yeah it takes some time to get used in windows but i'll manage, since in games i don't see any problem =)
Once again thank you for helping me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquaris*
> 
> I tested many mousepads (cloth) and the best one (at least for DA, havent tested any other mice) is by far Goliathus Control Edition. All of the others have mostly the same texture as QcK, Goliathus speed, Taito etc etc which make them wear out pretty easily (a couple of months). Not the case with Goli Control, 1 year passed and no worn out parts whatsoever. I'll always stick with this pad.
> I can't believe your mouse is working well if you're saying it tracks badly on goli control. I've also DA BE, and Corepads over the default feet and it feel just great!


Lo Aquaris,

Well i tested also on two pads,... ozone ground level (its almost the same as a quick, goliathus speed etc) and goliathus control. DA tracks perfectly on ozone but on control pad it seems to skip... i tested also G400 and it tracked very well on both pads... it even tracks great on my wood table... DA also skips on it...
Could you please tell me which dpi are you using? (i prefer 900dpi, but i know DA tracks best @1800).

Thanks


----------



## Skylit

I wish I could explain faster or better, but I'm limited on time:

The 900 CPI value is fine. I doubt many people will reach hindering speeds with specific pads.

1800 CPI with lower sensitivity (Default m_yaw and pitch) isn't exactly a good idea if you're looking for that right feel of cursor control you've had with other mice or settings.

1000hz isn't better nor worse than the soft capped values of 1000/2 =500hz or 1000/8 = 125hz. 1000hz is actually more inconsistent if you're not constantly reaching max speed while playing. =x


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> I wish I could explain faster or better, but I'm limited on time:
> 
> The 900 CPI value is fine. I doubt many people will reach hindering speeds with specific pads.
> 
> 1800 CPI with lower sensitivity (Default m_yaw and pitch) isn't exactly a good idea if you're looking for that right feel of cursor control you've had with other mice or settings.
> 
> 1000hz isn't better nor worse than the soft capped values of 1000/2 =500hz or 1000/8 = 125hz. 1000hz is actually more inconsistent if you're not constantly reaching max speed while playing. =x


I'm curious how many boards even support > 500 MHz polling. I know my Fatal1ty 990FX board with a "Fatal1ty Mouse Port" and it can reach about 950 MHz while the other USB ports barely touch 600 MHz.

From my own testing 3500 DPI is way too twitchy on a cloth pad, never tried it on a solid pad though. And for polling rates, I leave it at only 500 MHz anyway because anything over that will start to pick up my bodies natural vibrations.


----------



## Warfield

While I love the shape of the Deathadder, I think I'll be selling it. Have had it since BE release. While the skates fix the belly dragging and reduce LOD, still a nightmare for me to pick up. It just feels so slippery in my hands. I have very dry hands while gaming, not sure if thats the problem.


----------



## aquaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Could you please tell me which dpi are you using? (i prefer 900dpi, but i know DA tracks best @1800).
> Thanks


Hi, i'm using 1800dpi, 6/11 windows sens, 3/10 DA driver sens setting and 500Hz. I'm playing fast-paced games like UT2004 with no problems on a goli control (note that it's the newer version of it, which is thinner and imo the texture is a bit different from the old goli control which i had in the past). Regards!


----------



## Snakesoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquaris*
> 
> Hi, i'm using 1800dpi, 6/11 windows sens, 3/10 DA driver sens setting and 500Hz. I'm playing fast-paced games like UT2004 with no problems on a goli control (note that it's the newer version of it, which is thinner and imo the texture is a bit different from the old goli control which i had in the past). Regards!


Lo Aquaris,

My version of the goliathus is the same as yours. It's a good pad, but from the tests i've been making, i think i like the feel of the ozone pad... but i have to say it's a great mousepad, more slippery but also it feels a bit more accurate than the ozone\quick.
So i was having this problem from mouse skiping on games, but i think it«s solved (well at least last night the "beast" back lol)
I re-installed the drivers and for some reason he started to track every movement and i had no skipping whatsoever...








I think the problem was drivers conflict (maybe because i had installed the logitech's and for some reason when i uninstall it it didn't clean it up....)
I also tried to use 1800 dpi but after the driver installation i see no need to use such an high dpi...
thanks for your help =)


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> While I love the shape of the Deathadder, I think I'll be selling it. Have had it since BE release. While the skates fix the belly dragging and reduce LOD, still a nightmare for me to pick up. It just feels so slippery in my hands. I have very dry hands while gaming, not sure if thats the problem.


It is. My dry hands grip the original (glossy, not rubber like the BE) body better than they grip the BE shell.

It was very annoying when I switched from my original shell to a BE shell in the middle of the winter. Now that its like 110 degrees in my bedroom, the BE is worth it for sure









If you have issues with it. you can peel off the rubber coating, or you can "enhance" its "rubberyness" with a couple coats of plasti-dip. either method should make it more acceptable for clean dry hands.


----------



## cylinder

Hi guys, I have a couple of questions:
1. I just bought BE deathadder recently, and I felt the scroll click is harder than my previous deathadder (3G V3). Also It felt like it has higher actuation point. Is that normal? any way to fix that?
It's annoy me greatly, having to press harder just to find the bottom is shallow.

2. My previous deathadder has its skin peeled off here and there. The peeled off area (somehow) is sticky and gathering dust which I couldn't clean at all. I thought of peeling off the entire rubber skin and maybe coat it with some compound. Is there any tutorial for that? What's beneath the rubber skin? It seems like clear plastic.

thxx


----------



## Skylit

For Reference:

Deathadder Sensitivity Scaling (driver interpolation) :

1800 CPI:

10 = 1800 CPI
9.5 = 1710 CPI
9 = 1620 CPI
8.5 = 1530 CPI
8 = 1440 CPI
7.5 = 1350 CPI
7 = 1260 CPI
6.5 = 1170 CPI
6 = 1080 CPI
5.5 = 990 CPI
5 = 900 CPI
4.5 = 810 CPI
4 = 720 CPI
3.5 = 630 CPI
3 = 540 CPI
2.5 = 450 CPI
2 = 360 CPI
1.5 = 270 CPI
1 = 180 CPI

3500 CPI:

10 = 3500 CPI
9.5 = 3325 CPI
9 = 3150 CPI
8.5 = 2950 CPI
8 = 2800 CPI
7.5 = 2625 CPI
7 = 2420 CPI
6.5 = 2275 CPI
6 = 2100 CPI
5.5 = 1925 CPI
5 = 1750 CPI
4.5 = 1575 CPI
4 = 1400 CPI
3.5 = 1225 CPI
3 = 1050 CPI
2.5 = 875 CPI
2 = 700 CPI
1.5 = 525 CPI
1 = 350 CPI


----------



## Yahar

Can someone explain me the difference between "interpolated" dpi step and "scaled down" dpi or was it called that?

Is the 1800 dpi step the only NATIVE dpi step?

Are the 450/900 dpi steps scaled down, or interpolated? Which is better/worse, interpolation or scaling down, and why?

How is the sensor performance at 450/900 steps?

How do I know if X mouse has a scaled down or Interpolated dpi steps? What are the differences? For example I have Zowie AM, and g400 and cm storm spawn lying around, but I don't know the dpi steps are handled.

I'd really appreciate if someone could answer that, been looking for the answer but haven't been able to find one









Thanks!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahar*
> 
> Can someone explain me the difference between "interpolated" dpi step and "scaled down" dpi or was it called that?
> Is the 1800 dpi step the only NATIVE dpi step?
> Are the 450/900 dpi steps scaled down, or interpolated? Which is better/worse, interpolation or scaling down, and why?
> How is the sensor performance at 450/900 steps?
> How do I know if X mouse has a scaled down or Interpolated dpi steps? What are the differences? For example I have Zowie AM, and g400 and cm storm spawn lying around, but I don't know the dpi steps are handled.
> I'd really appreciate if someone could answer that, been looking for the answer but haven't been able to find one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!!!!!!!


1800/3500.
The 450 and 900 CPI steps listed in drivers are 1800 CPI with down interpolation on hardware level. "2.5" and "5" + 1800 CPI on the Razer Sensitivity slider are equivalent.
Very Good. Razer's DA firmware is really well done.
Evaluating a specific mice and CPI steps tied with other mice using the same or different sensor code.
Putting 1+1 together. Fairly easy if you know what to look for.

G400 has native steps of 800/3600.
CM spawn has native steps of 1800/3500 or 800/1600/4000 (later firmware/srom). *bound to change in future with added step
I believe Zowie AM uses the initial 1800 CPI registry, but it's really up in the air since they're using other 3rd party hardware to manipulate the true CPI value as suggested by the sensor manufacturer. I also believe they made an error listing the Low step CPI value, but I won't know for sure until I get confirmation of what they did for the high step.


----------



## Yahar

Firstly, thanks for the informatin Skylit. That's some great info!

So, I read on another thread that the g400 400 dpi step is scaled down step. Not interpolated, and someone said thus it doesn't affect the tracking precision/quality + max speeds at all, but interpolation does.
Does this mean that scaled down settings are in general better than interpolation? What i've noticed people don't like interpolated dpi steps in general. Are they the same thing or a different thing?

What are the technical differences that affect the tracking on both (interpolation mechanic and scaling down mechanic)?

What I'd really like to know if the non-native, be it interpolated/scaled down step, affect the tracking quality/speed at all? Even minimally since i'd really like to use native steps if possible, but some games (older games) limit what dpi can be used and there isn't an optical mouse with all the steps as native. So I am a bit worried, what kind of effect it has that I playing on the NON-native dpi step on these older games.

Sorry for so many questions but I really don't understand, but I would like to learn how the non-native dpi steps work, and how are they different from native dpi step. And why is native dpi step a better choise, or is it? Maybe I'm just mistaken. :/


----------



## 86JR

I am about to order a DA Black but am a bit worried, I owned 2 DA's in the past and had issues:

First one, the software kept crashing on vista, so I sold it.

Second one, the mouse just decided to not work one day. No matter what usb port i tried the mouse would not even light up. I did a full reinstall of windows and it didnt change anything, I reset the bios and it didnt change anything. But the mouse worked in ANY other computer I tried, both with and without software installed. Wierd.

So I had at the time, a £1800 gaming rig and a £55 mouse that refused to work with it. WAS NOT CHUFFED.


----------



## Riou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahar*
> 
> Firstly, thanks for the informatin Skylit. That's some great info!
> So, I read on another thread that the g400 400 dpi step is scaled down step. Not interpolated, and someone said thus it doesn't affect the tracking precision/quality + max speeds at all, but interpolation does.
> Does this mean that scaled down settings are in general better than interpolation? What i've noticed people don't like interpolated dpi steps in general. Are they the same thing or a different thing?
> What are the technical differences that affect the tracking on both (interpolation mechanic and scaling down mechanic)?
> What I'd really like to know if the non-native, be it interpolated/scaled down step, affect the tracking quality/speed at all? Even minimally since i'd really like to use native steps if possible, but some games (older games) limit what dpi can be used and there isn't an optical mouse with all the steps as native. So I am a bit worried, what kind of effect it has that I playing on the NON-native dpi step on these older games.
> Sorry for so many questions but I really don't understand, but I would like to learn how the non-native dpi steps work, and how are they different from native dpi step. And why is native dpi step a better choise, or is it? Maybe I'm just mistaken. :/


Interpolation means the computer chip inside mouse creates "new data points" between known discrete points. In other words, those are just estimates or guesses based off the native DPI data. It may not be as accurate since it depends upon a mathematical model and not true sampling data.

Scaled down DPI divides evenly from native DPI. It still using the native DPI resolution sampling data. It just omits some data (i.e. 400 DPI from native 800 DPI).


----------



## Yahar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riou*
> 
> Interpolation means the computer chip inside mouse creates "new data points" between known discrete points. In other words, those are just estimates or guesses based off the native DPI data. It may not be as accurate since it depends upon a mathematical model and not true sampling data.
> Scaled down DPI divides evenly from native DPI. It still using the native DPI resolution sampling data. It just omits some data (i.e. 400 DPI from native 800 DPI).


Great, thanks! Now I understand that.

So does that mean that interpolation = any non-native dpi step?

+

1) All interpolated steps that are higher than the highest native step, are bad and should be avoided due to calculation errors/estimates?

2) All interpolated steps that are lower than the highest native step are "scaled down" or "halved counts" and it's not as bad, and can be used? Or does this only work if the dpi step is 1/2 of the native dpi step?
Is there no scaling down if it's for example, 1/4 of the native dpi? Like on Deathadder's case native dpi 1800, and using 450 would be 1/4 of the native dpi step.
Or this works no matter what % is the dpi step of native dpi step? This still called as "scaled down" or "halved" step and it's as good as the "halved" step 900 of 1800?

Thank you very much!!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahar*
> 
> Great, thanks! Now I understand that.
> So does that mean that interpolation = any non-native dpi step?
> +
> 1) All interpolated steps that are higher than the highest native step, are bad and should be avoided due to calculation errors/estimates?
> 2) All interpolated steps that are lower than the highest native step are "scaled down" or "halved counts" and it's not as bad, and can be used? Or does this only work if the dpi step is 1/2 of the native dpi step?
> Is there no scaling down if it's for example, 1/4 of the native dpi? Like on Deathadder's case native dpi 1800, and using 450 would be 1/4 of the native dpi step.
> Or this works no matter what % is the dpi step of native dpi step? This still called as "scaled down" or "halved" step and it's as good as the "halved" step 900 of 1800?
> Thank you very much!!


Not quite. Interpolation can exist regardless of if it's higher or lower than native. In this mode, some or all of the data is based on mathematical predictions rather than actual observed data. Depending on the method used, those predictions can be pretty spot on most of the time, but there's always a chance even with the best solutions to get an incorrect value at any given time - even if it's only slightly incorrect.

As another user stated earlier, there are certain steps (exclusively below native) which are using true points of data. There is no room for error using this method since all the data is real.

Which steps use which method is entirely up the the designers - there is no general rule that can be applied to all mice. I can't tell you which mice use which steps but I'm fairly sure skylit or another user has already broken down a list of a couple popular mice including the DA.

Think of it as the resolution of an image on screen. 100%, the image is crisp. Every pixel is exactly where it belongs in relation to all other pixels. This is native dpi.

At 200%, everything is doubled in size but still correctly placed and proportioned. This is like a non-interpolated scale down.

If you try 161% however, you start getting issues when observing individual pixels. They do not all enlarge at the same rate. Some encroach into the space of others. Proportions on a small scale are thrown off. Colors start getting mixed to simulate the existence of pixels which simply do not physically exist, in order to attempt to force an image to scale to a size it's not physically capable of without distorting the overall size or dimension of the image. When you look at it quickly, or from afar, there is no visible issue, but upon closer inspection, depending on the algorithm used for scaling, you may observe a reduced image quality in some respect or another. This is an interpolated scale.


----------



## Yahar

Thanks for the Explanation Zero4549, I think I'm starting to understand it!

Yeah, that's what I asked:

Interpolation = Any dpi step that is NON-NATIVE, either lower or higher than the native dpi?

The only thing I still don't understand is why for example if user says g400 400 dpi step is "scaled down" and halved counts from 800 dpi native. Is this not interpolation?

Then people say 450 dpi step on DA is interpolated, and not scaled down/halved steps? ~~

Is interpolation the term they both are, but people are just calling lower than native dpi steps as "Scaled down" because it is better than higher than native dpi steps, which they only call "interpolation" ?

Or are they completely different thing, scaling and interpolation?


----------



## Riou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahar*
> 
> Thanks for the Explanation Zero4549, I think I'm starting to understand it!
> Yeah, that's what I asked:
> Interpolation = Any dpi step that is NON-NATIVE, either lower or higher than the native dpi?
> The only thing I still don't understand is why for example if user says g400 400 dpi step is "scaled down" and halved counts from 800 dpi native. Is this not interpolation?
> Then people say 450 dpi step on DA is interpolated, and not scaled down/halved steps? ~~
> Is interpolation the term they both are, but people are just calling lower than native dpi steps as "Scaled down" because it is better than higher than native dpi steps, which they only call "interpolation" ?
> Or are they completely different thing, scaling and interpolation?


The following is not specific to mice but just data in general. Look at these graphs:

Linear interpolation


Cubic interpolation


The interpolated data curve is red. The sample data are bolded points. As you can see, the interpolation model you use may give different results. They are just estimates.

Now when people say scaled down, it is still using the measured sample data. Less data points (or counts) are taken. That is why it is not interpolated.



If we take away every other point on this graph, the remaining data points are still real and measured.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahar*
> 
> Thanks for the Explanation Zero4549, I think I'm starting to understand it!
> Yeah, that's what I asked:
> Interpolation = Any dpi step that is NON-NATIVE, either lower or higher than the native dpi?
> The only thing I still don't understand is why for example if user says g400 400 dpi step is "scaled down" and halved counts from 800 dpi native. Is this not interpolation?
> Then people say 450 dpi step on DA is interpolated, and not scaled down/halved steps? ~~
> Is interpolation the term they both are, but people are just calling lower than native dpi steps as "Scaled down" because it is better than higher than native dpi steps, which they only call "interpolation" ?
> Or are they completely different thing, scaling and interpolation?


Not all lower-than native are interpolated, BUT all higher than native are.

Lower than native can be either interpolated or scaled down. Depends on the wishes of the manufacturer and the dpi you are trying to achieve.

Uusually, a step like 1/2 or 1/4 won't be interpolated because it is so easy to just use actual data.


----------



## 86JR

Just purchased a Razer DeathAdder Black Edition!

How do I go about swapping internals for a 1800DPI, any guides and places to get the hardware? I am in the UK.


----------



## Yahar

Alright, lol, now I understand it!







Thanks a lot!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yahar*
> 
> Alright, lol, now I understand it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot!


Great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86JR*
> 
> Just purchased a Razer DeathAdder Black Edition!
> How do I go about swapping internals for a 1800DPI, any guides and places to get the hardware? I am in the UK.


Do you have a V3 1800dpi on hand? Even a broken one will do if it's electronics still work. That's the easiest way to obtain the parts. If not, it's somewhat difficult to find the correct components. Hella and I could both likely guide you through the process once you have the parts on hand - its very simple.


----------



## 86JR

Not on hand, I will try and source one...couldnt find one for sale at the moment!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86JR*
> 
> Not on hand, I will try and source one...couldnt find one for sale at the moment!


Let us know. also check with friends if any have a broken deathadder you can play with. Perhaps you could tempt them with the prospect of "upgrading" it to 3500 dpi hint hint wink wink


----------



## Qasual

I enjoy reading this thread a lot.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qasual*
> 
> I enjoy reading this thread a lot.


Thumbs up to you for reading the entire thing buddy







. Glad you enjoyed it!


----------



## Zero4549

It's a great thread. Informative, helpful, some nice unique content, and no trolling or silly pointless arguments


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qasual*
> 
> I enjoy reading this thread a lot.


You're not the only one. This thread was a big reason for me to get the DA and still after getting it I check this thread daily.
Note: No issuses with my 2nd DABE yet. Going to slap my hyperglides on next week.


----------



## lexo

So I just ordered a 3.5G Black Edition. I wanted to get the G400 first but the Deathadder felt better when I tried it out in the store. I am aware of the issues like the high LOD. I will look if it will bother me when it arrives. So which mousepad should I choose for it? I am a low sens gamer so I thought of the qck+. I got also recommended the qck heavy but I am not sure if it's really necessary. So on which mousepad does it have the best tracking? And are there any accessoires I have to buy for it? Like are mouseskates really necessary?


----------



## Warfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexo*
> 
> So I just ordered a 3.5G Black Edition. I wanted to get the G400 first but the Deathadder felt better when I tried it out in the store. I am aware of the issues like the high LOD. I will look if it will bother me when it arrives. So which mousepad should I choose for it? I am a low sens gamer so I thought of the qck+. I got also recommended the qck heavy but I am not sure if it's really necessary. So on which mousepad does it have the best tracking? And are there any accessoires I have to buy for it? Like are mouseskates really necessary?


Funny, I just bought a g400 to replace my deathadder. The deathadder tracks on practically every surface. Choose a mousepad to fit your need. Since you are a low sens gamer, qck+ or puretrak talent are solid choices. Mouse skates do two things, eliminate the belly drag and reduce LOD. Belly dragging is caused by the stock feet being recessed into the body of the mouse. This means there is almost no lift from the glides and you are essentially dragging the whole mouse around. You won't need any accessories but possibly tape if you want to reduce LOD.

Sorry if this doesn't make sense, awake for over a day and half now


----------



## 2shellbonus

How does one fix the dodgy wheel encoder ( mine scrolls down once in every 5-6 up scrolls)


----------



## lexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> Funny, I just bought a g400 to replace my deathadder. The deathadder tracks on practically every surface. Choose a mousepad to fit your need. Since you are a low sens gamer, qck+ or puretrak talent are solid choices. Mouse skates do two things, eliminate the belly drag and reduce LOD. Belly dragging is caused by the stock feet being recessed into the body of the mouse. This means there is almost no lift from the glides and you are essentially dragging the whole mouse around. You won't need any accessories but possibly tape if you want to reduce LOD.
> Sorry if this doesn't make sense, awake for over a day and half now


I heard that the Razer Goliathus is the best pad for the deathadder. Is it true? Or will it track on the qck as well?


----------



## Warfield

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexo*
> 
> I heard that the Razer Goliathus is the best pad for the deathadder. Is it true? Or will it track on the qck as well?


Track the same way on both.


----------



## JLthrash

Just got a DA Blk. Edition on a QCK pad.

I am so enthralled with the feel of the mouse - really happy with the purchase.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLthrash*
> 
> Just got a DA Blk. Edition on a QCK pad.
> I am so enthralled with the feel of the mouse - really happy with the purchase.


Double up the feet and chances are you'll love it even more


----------



## tjangel07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2shellbonus*
> 
> How does one fix the dodgy wheel encoder ( mine scrolls down once in every 5-6 up scrolls)


I also want an answer to this.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjangel07*
> 
> I also want an answer to this.


What version are we talking about?


----------



## tjangel07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> What version are we talking about?


Mine's the Black Edition


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjangel07*
> 
> Mine's the Black Edition


Is it still under warranty? If not, are you willing to open it up and take a look inside?


----------



## tjangel07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Is it still under warranty? If not, are you willing to open it up and take a look inside?


No it's not under warranty anymore. Yeah I'm fine with opening it up.


----------



## Ukkooh

Is it reguired to clean up the old mouse feet when installing hyperglides on top of them or will the glue hold? I'm asking because I don't have anything to clean the feet with except water.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukkooh*
> 
> Is it reguired to clean up the old mouse feet when installing hyperglides on top of them or will the glue hold? I'm asking because I don't have anything to clean the feet with except water.


Isopropyl alcohol is usually the solvent of choice for cleaning electronics, but a little soap and water should do the trick.


----------



## Zero4549

As stated, alcohol and any sort of cloth, paper towel, tissue, cotton swab, even a coffee filter will do.

If you don't have alcohol and can't just pick some up at a local store for 50 cents, just use water. Don't put soap on it as it can leave residue which will make the new feet stick even worse than if just wiped with cloth.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2shellbonus*
> 
> How does one fix the dodgy wheel encoder ( mine scrolls down once in every 5-6 up scrolls)


I've read somewhere that it helps to spray some WD40 on the encoder.


----------



## 2shellbonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> I've read somewhere that it helps to spray some WD40 on the encoder.


WD40 gets rid of the squeaking in razer mousewheels. Didnt help the scrolling issue. Had to open the mouse up and soak the damn thing in vodka. Seems to work.


----------



## glover28

Proud owner of a deathadder 3.5g here. Been using this mouse for years now with no issues whatsoever. I see a lot of razer hate on these forums and I cannot understand why.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glover28*
> 
> Proud owner of a deathadder 3.5g here. Been using this mouse for years now with no issues whatsoever. I see a lot of razer hate on these forums and I cannot understand why.


Razer has some REALLY bad quality control and customer service. Also some REALLY gimmicky products.

That said they do produce some great stuff too if you know what you're looking for.


----------



## mksteez

I love this mouse. Currently have the 3.5 DA but i wish i had bought the Black Edition. I dont like the glossy finish on the sides after a few hours of gaming. Is there any vinyl tape that I can put on the side? Or if someone wants to trade me for the BE edition.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> I love this mouse. Currently have the 3.5 DA but i wish i had bought the Black Edition. I dont like the glossy finish on the sides after a few hours of gaming. Is there any vinyl tape that I can put on the side? Or if someone wants to trade me for the BE edition.


You can apply plasti-dip if you're careful. It would in fact be superior to a black edition's coating if you really want a nice rubbery grip.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Razer has some *REALLY bad quality control* and customer service. Also some REALLY gimmicky products.
> That said they do produce some great stuff too if you know what you're looking for.


I don't think its been as bad as with the prior OEM. Their tooling is pretty cheap and iffy though.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> I don't think its been as bad as with the prior OEM. Their tooling is pretty cheap and iffy though.


Lot's of cases of incorrectly put together keyboards and mice recently.

Heck, my first DA was improperly put together but I fixed that myself and it wasn't really an issue for me, but that was way back when the things were first released.

My buddy's only razer product ever - a black widow - has flaky LEDs and cracked keycaps.

*shrug* there's no way to know the real percentages since it's the people with issues who are most outspoken, but I think it's fairly safe to say that their quality-control is sub-optimal at least. at least they make an AWESOME mouse once you fix it up a bit


----------



## mksteez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> You can apply plasti-dip if you're careful. It would in fact be superior to a black edition's coating if you really want a nice rubbery grip.


Wouldn't that be too thick though? and is this the one?
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3573713


----------



## lexo

My deathadder 3.5G black edition just arrived. it feels ******* great.

Now I normally wouldn't need help to install a mouse but I heard that you need a specific driver to run it without any prediction/acceleration. I also need help on how to make sure to disable acceleration everywhere. I know that you can disable it in the mouse settings in windows (i use win7) but I heard that it doesnt disable it completly.

Mine has a 3.5cd high lod but it luckily doesnt bother me at all.


----------



## Skylit

Nope you heard wrong. Angle Snapping (Prediction) is a internal function / ROM disabled within the 3.5G models. Acceleration isn't enabled unless you tick it via driver.

You need to turn off EPP (Enhance pointer precision) in windows, but if you're unsure. Follow this guide. http://donewmouseaccel.blogspot.com/2010/03/markc-windows-7-mouse-acceleration-fix.html


----------



## lexo

Thanks. I plugged the mouse in and applied the fix above and logged off and on. Then I installed the latest driver (http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=574&nav=0 this one and nothing else) and configured the settings.

This are the settings i currently use










Sadly. It seems that prediction is on. Did I get unlucky and get a broken mouse?










I also ran that mousemovement recorder and while most of the time the numbers seemed to be correct when I drove the mouse across the border of the screen i got those errors










Is this all a configuration problem or is my mouse broken?


----------



## Skylit

Angle snapping looks disabled. o_0

You'll get that error regardless if you reach the ends of your screen.


----------



## lexo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Angle snapping looks disabled. o_0
> You'll get that error regardless if you reach the ends of your screen.


Really? I can see a lot of perfectly straight lines.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexo*
> 
> My deathadder 3.5G black edition just arrived. it feels ******* great.
> Now I normally wouldn't need help to install a mouse but I heard that you need a specific driver to run it without any prediction/acceleration. I also need help on how to make sure to disable acceleration everywhere. I know that you can disable it in the mouse settings in windows (i use win7) but I heard that it doesnt disable it completly.
> Mine has a 3.5cd high lod but it luckily doesnt bother me at all.


All the drivers and firmware are on razer's website and are labeled correctly. Should be fairly straight forward once you actually look at them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> Wouldn't that be too thick though? and is this the one?
> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3573713


Yes that is the correct product, but it is also available in "spray paint" versions. The one you're looking at is like a can of liquid paint that you would apply with a brush. Both are the same product internally.

I suggest finding the spray variety as it will be easier to apply a thin even coat. The paint-on kind that you found might, as you say, be a bit thick (although it would still work fine).

The great part is if you mess up, it gets damaged, or you just don't like it, you can peel it right off with no residue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexo*
> 
> Really? I can see a lot of perfectly straight lines.


Nothing looks wrong to me. You will always have some straight lines just because of the digital nature of pixels being displayed on screen. It can't display a chance that is less than the size of a single pixel.


----------



## Tuny

is this correct? i am using the black editon at 1000hz, 450dpi and aceleration off


----------



## Vikhr

Looks a little jittery, have you tried 500hz?

Edit: I could just be seeing things, my DA is pretty similar at both 500hz and 1000hz on a QcK+.


----------



## thejoy

Do you know where I could find some 3G versions ? I didn't find any, even on Ebay. There must be some 3G versions on the internet, somewhere...even special editions.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thejoy*
> 
> Do you know where I could find some 3G versions ? I didn't find any, even on Ebay. There must be some 3G versions on the internet, somewhere...even special editions.










I've got a 3g V2 that I don't necessarily need. Won't help you at all for the black edition shell mod though. At any rate, check the marketplace here. Post a Wanted Classified and eventually you'll get lucky... maybe


----------



## Skylit

Modded a Black Edition wheel into my DA left.

Removed pulsing blue LED and 4 additional daughter board screws (6 total) since they cause more trouble than solve.


----------



## thejoy

Does anyone know what Version is the Guildwars Edition ? Anyone have ever heard of any differences with this special edition ? Any bug ?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thejoy*
> 
> Does anyone know what Version is the Guildwars Edition ? Anyone have ever heard of any differences with this special edition ? Any bug ?


As far as i know its a normal 3g v3 with different top cover and leds unless they updated it to a 3.5g at some point.


----------



## Riou

Please could you try drawing diagonal lines with your mouse held rotated 45 degrees to the left? Hold the mouse 45 degrees to the left and draw straight down (which results in diagonal lines).

My DA:BE creates lots of jitter on one of my Ripper cloth pad when drawn like that. I do not get this with my G400, MX300, or Avago 9500 mice (g9x, d3, sensei) with the same pad.

DA:BE, 900 dpi, 500 Hz



My QcK+ pad seem to work okay with DA:BE, but there still seems to be slight jitter.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riou*
> 
> Please could you try drawing diagonal lines with your mouse held rotated 45 degrees to the left? Hold the mouse 45 degrees to the left and draw straight down (which results in diagonal lines).
> My DA:BE creates lots of jitter on one of my Ripper cloth pad when drawn like that. I do not get this with my G400, MX300, or Avago 9500 mice (g9x, d3, sensei) with the same pad.
> DA:BE, 900 dpi, 500 Hz
> 
> My QcK+ pad seem to work okay with DA:BE, but there still seems to be slight jitter.


Lol wow. Mine are perfectly straight with the 3G BE on goliathus speed.


----------



## Degree

DA Black Edition
Goliathus Speed Fragged


----------



## jordanecmusic

I love my Deathadder 3.5g


----------



## Riou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Lol wow. Mine are perfectly straight with the 3G BE on goliathus speed.


I guess mine is defective, so I am going to send mine back to the store. Plus the Black Edition is too slippery for my hands in palm and claw. Only fingertip is somewhat liftable.


----------



## thuNDa

was the lens maybe dusty or dirty otherwise?

if it was, it still can track good on better suitable surfaces, but will jitter like it did on surfaces which are not optimal.


----------



## Riou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> was the lens maybe dusty or dirty otherwise?
> if it was, it still can track good on better suitable surfaces, but will jitter like it did on surfaces which are not optimal.


The mouse was only about 3 weeks old so there should not have been much dust. The surface of the pad has a somewhat glossy coating at certain angles, so that could explain the massive jitter. I noticed the mouse would not track on slightly glossy plastic. Qck have a more matte finish, so jitter was greatly reduced.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riou*
> 
> The mouse was only about 3 weeks old so there should not have been much dust. The surface of the pad has a somewhat glossy coating at certain angles, so that could explain the massive jitter. I noticed the mouse would not track on slightly glossy plastic. Qck have a more matte finish, so jitter was greatly reduced.


Can you try just a normal cloth pad? Even a cheap one you might have laying around?

My Goliathus is a perfectly matte black uniform cloth surface and as I said my lines are perfectly straight. I AM using a modded mouse though (the guts of an original 3g deathadder inside of the body of the black edition) but I don't think it should make much of a difference.

The lines you have are absolutely crazy (the first ones anyway, second set is reasonable but still not as nice as mine. could just be a matter of a shakier hand or something though).

Also, even only 3 weeks old, it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the lens. blow on it with compressed air if you've got it.


----------



## thorsteNN

hey guys,

i just reactivated my deathadder.
but i noticed that i dont like the overall sensor feeling when the drivers are installed.
so i just uninstalled them and right now using it without drivers.
i just wanted to ask if there is any disadvantage using it without the razer drivers?
it seems the polling rate and dpi setting is saved on the mouse memory.
so what about the performance of the mouse? for example sensorwise?
any argument against using it without drivers?

thanks in advance!


----------



## SirDrexl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorsteNN*
> 
> hey guys,
> i just reactivated my deathadder.
> but i noticed that i dont like the overall sensor feeling when the drivers are installed.
> so i just uninstalled them and right now using it without drivers.
> i just wanted to ask if there is any disadvantage using it without the razer drivers?
> it seems the polling rate and dpi setting is saved on the mouse memory.
> so what about the performance of the mouse? for example sensorwise?
> any argument against using it without drivers?
> thanks in advance!


I don't think the settings are saved on the mouse. Fortunately though, the defaults are good, with the mouse's optimal sensitivity of 1800 DPI along with 500hz polling. If you don't need to change anything, it would be fine.

The only reason I installed the drivers was to make sure the firmware was updated to the latest.


----------



## thorsteNN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirDrexl*
> 
> I don't think the settings are saved on the mouse. Fortunately though, the defaults are good, with the mouse's optimal sensitivity of 1800 DPI along with 500hz polling. If you don't need to change anything, it would be fine.
> The only reason I installed the drivers was to make sure the firmware was updated to the latest.


it is saved. i just unpluged and pluged it in again.
its still 450 dpi and 500 hz.
mine is already on newest firmware version.


----------



## TheOddOne

My DA is having double-click problem, what should I do ?


----------



## Axaion

Not much you can do execpt, opening it and try to clean it, hopeing itll fix it, solder new switches on, or get a new one


----------



## Pudding

I'd just like to say that this is the mouse I use for work, especially now that it's being sold as ergonomic! and the matching horse blanket of a mousepad.


----------



## vittau

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOddOne*
> 
> My DA is having double-click problem, what should I do ?


This. Be gentle while you open the plastic case of the micro-switch, you REALLY don't want to break it (unless you want to do some soldering work to replace the micro-switch entirely).
The tutorial doesn't mention it, but you can also use some contact cleaner spray on the micro-switch, and then rub the two contact areas of the switch with a pencil (it will remove any remaining dirt while also improving conductivity due to the graphite).

I will also share here my past experience with the DeathAdder Left-Hand Edition, to warn potential buyers. I'll just quote here my post on Steam:
Quote:


> So, I've just bought the Razer DeathAdder Left-Hand Edition mouse, it feels great, and has a pretty good sensor. Everything was fine, until I rebooted the computer: after every reboot, 1 or 2 minutes after the system is ready to use, the mouse buttons stop responding for a while, and then all of a sudden everything I tried to do happens at once (probably a poorly handled FIFO queue).
> 
> That was with the 3.0.3 driver (newest). Saw reports (here) that 3.0.2 has this problem too, so I tried 3.0.1.
> 
> The problem with the buttons is gone. But now, there is a memory leak issue: every click seems to raise razerhid.exe memory consumption a little.
> And also, it does not allow the monitor to shutdown after the specified idle time, nor does it allow the screensaver to come up.
> 
> As you can see, I'm not the only one. *[THERE WERE 3 LINKS ORIGINALLY, BUT THEY'RE BROKEN BY NOW]*
> 
> So what's up with that, Razer?
> Great hardware means nothing if your software is a POS. I'll probably return this mouse, and just thought I'd let everyone know.


I ended up returning the mouse. Other people confirmed the issues, apparently only on Left-Hand Edition mice for whatever reason.

Razer has since released the 3.5G driver which fixes the responsiveness problem, but it doesn't mention the other problems. I assume they are still present.


----------



## fjaeger

Remedies for a squeaky mousewheel? Only real complaint I have about the DA Black Edition I bought a week ago.


----------



## IloveKuchen

What do u think off my real black Deathadder?









(the mousewheel is photoshopped, its actually not that white anymore

At first i thought it would get ultra sweaty but actually its okay, nice and warm but not too warm.
The next step should be carbon foil on the mouse but im not sure if im gonna do that since i like it how it is already.


----------



## Warfield

On eBay there are Deathadder mouse covers. Not linking as I believe it's against the rules. Just ordered one to try. Will post pics and review once it comes in.


----------



## Skylit

Razer synapse 2.0 now supports all versions of the Deathadder as of June 6th.
Quote:


> Release Log:
> 
> 1. Added Synapse support for:
> - Razer Taipan
> - Razer DeathAdder
> - Razer DeathAdder 3.5G
> - Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Black


So far Ive only tested it on my Mac Pro and the issues I was experiencing with the previous driver seem to be gone. (LH DA)

DPI is shown in 100 steps in this driver, though I don't know if it goes by the same MCU scaling as the previous driver (Not on a PC to test this)


----------



## Vikhr

My Deathadder BE is also showing DPI in steps of 100, it's also posting very pitiful tracking speeds of roughly 2.2m/s at every cpi setting. It also refuses to change polling rate to 1000hz, instead it just stays at about 500hz.

Edit: Uninstalled the Synapse drivers, the mouse defaulted back to 3500dpi and it's now producing abysmal tracking speeds. I guess I need to install the normal drivers if I want to make the mouse track decently again.


----------



## Skylit

You're right. This driver is a total mess (even though it fixed the replug issues I had with the older client).

-Max IPS is lowered. Around 90 (2.2m/s) coming from ~150.
-Tracking turned to garbage. Maybe the controller values are off.
-1000hz polling rate is stuck a little above 500hz.
- Someone can't think backwards. Left hand DA picture and buttons are heavily mislabeled.


----------



## SirCumference

Ditto. Automatically downloaded because I have synapse running for my Naga Hex. 2.2m/s and cursor almost feels a bit laggy.


----------



## gow3

I downloaded the new drivers and firmware update. I had the left button problem which would decrease the efficiency of the button itself. I changed the mode into the "left-hand edition". Everything works like a charm now!


----------



## IloveKuchen

Quote:


> On eBay there are Deathadder mouse covers


Thx mate, i found them but its not my taste.
I bought carbon foil and i love it.

@drivers: i dont use them, tried sometimes but it never made it better but only worse


----------



## kcuestag

Just got a Razer DeathAdder and a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate, I hope they're a good purchase.


----------



## Infinite Jest

They're great when they work.







. I went from being a Logitech guy (a couple of Logitech keyboards, mx revolution, performance mx, and g700) to a Razer guy (DA:BE and blackwidow vanilla) and from my experience , it has been a build quality and reliability ( giving points to Logitech) vs performance (Razer) trade-off. As long as they hold up, you'll be happy with your purchase.


----------



## Porumy

So I have a deathadder 3G that has lasted about 5-6 years so far. I'm starting to have cable connection problems. It will sometimes not be detected when I plug it into my laptop and certain times my laptop can detect the USB connection.
Is there a guide on how to fix this problem?


----------



## IloveKuchen

http://i.imgur.com/gXqmmh.jpg
Thats the kinzu but the DA is pretty simlilar.
All you need is a new cable, or you need to find the damaged part, cut it off and connect the connector again.

Basicly you can repair anything but the pcb i guess, the cable should be really easy so open your DA and check if theres a damaged part in the cable. If there is its very likely that you will be able to fix it.
Quote:


> it has been a build quality and reliability ( giving points to Logitech) vs performance (Razer) trade-off


Quote:


> o I have a deathadder 3G that has lasted about 5-6 years so far.


Is there a lot more to say?
You say that you feel like, did you break 100razer mice while your 100logitech mice lasted without breaking or how can you say it?
Also, how can you say razer has better performance, i doubt that you can see differences between g400 and DA performance.
Quote:


> This driver is a total mess


Thats right, thankfully i first tried it on my laptop and didnt install it on the desktop
There we go, thats an objective quality issue, but its fixed by using archive drivers.


----------



## tom2k11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Riou*
> 
> Please could you try drawing diagonal lines with your mouse held rotated 45 degrees to the left? Hold the mouse 45 degrees to the left and draw straight down (which results in diagonal lines).
> My DA:BE creates lots of jitter on one of my Ripper cloth pad when drawn like that. I do not get this with my G400, MX300, or Avago 9500 mice (g9x, d3, sensei) with the same pad.
> DA:BE, 900 dpi, 500 Hz
> 
> My QcK+ pad seem to work okay with DA:BE, but there still seems to be slight jitter.


I can also produce this jitter *when the mouse is rotated by 45 degrees*. It happened on all 3 of my DAs. Fortunately I am using a low sens + palm grip so I hardly rotate the mouse, although this could be a killer for claw grip.


----------



## ninjaturtletavo

Okay guys I'm getting a Razer Deathadder Balck edition today in the mail. I heard its very good for gaming and I've been using a cheap dell mouse and been doing pretty good. So I cant wait to try out the mouse with the two side keys! Anyway, how come there is so much discussion over DPI and all that mumbo jumbo? Does it really make a difference? I'm fine with my accuacy on my regular mouse, can I just use the same settings once I get mine?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjaturtletavo*
> 
> Okay guys I'm getting a Razer Deathadder Balck edition today in the mail. I heard its very good for gaming and I've been using a cheap dell mouse and been doing pretty good. So I cant wait to try out the mouse with the two side keys! Anyway, how come there is so much discussion over DPI and all that mumbo jumbo? Does it really make a difference? I'm fine with my accuacy on my regular mouse, can I just use the same settings once I get mine?


In short, yes, it does make a difference.

And No, you cannot replicate the performance of a cheap throw away dell mouse with a deathadder. You can get the sensitivity and DPI roughly similar, but it will always be different (superior) in other aspects.

This is a GOOD thing, you'll see


----------



## ninjaturtletavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> In short, yes, it does make a difference.
> And No, you cannot replicate the performance of a cheap throw away dell mouse with a deathadder. You can get the sensitivity and DPI roughly similar, but it will always be different (superior) in other aspects.
> This is a GOOD thing, you'll see


Lol okay. Its just that I see so many ppl ask they cant get there settings right. So I'm a bit worried I'll be spending more time in the settings menu than Gaming!


----------



## IloveKuchen

Just dont install any drivers and dont change any settings and you get the optimal DA settings. Its easy isnt it?








If you want to use a makro/key on the sidebuttons install the software, set it and after it deinstall the drivers+software again to get best results. Changes are stored in the DA.

The settings you have to do are in the CS mouse optimization guide, get mousefix andwindows pointer to 6and you are done, its a matter of 1minute and one relog.


----------



## karod

Are really all settings stored in the mouse?
I ask because I once uninstalled the software, but the lightning settings (turned off the wheel and the glowing logo) were not saved.

The mouse was illuminated again, after the driver/software was removed.


----------



## IloveKuchen

Hmm sry i cant tell you if the lightning is saved, i like my mouseweel to glow and the backled cant be seen through the carbon foil thats why i didntr try


----------



## SirCumference

The Deathadder doesn't have on board memory to store setting- you have to use the driver software.


----------



## ninjaturtletavo

Okay so how do I bind keys on BF3? i go to settings and it seems to not hold the keys I put for the side keys.....


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjaturtletavo*
> 
> Okay so how do I bind keys on BF3? i go to settings and it seems to not hold the keys I put for the side keys.....


Works fine for me. You have the DA drivers installed? the latest DA specific ones, not the ******ed ass synapse 2.0 stuff.


----------



## ninjaturtletavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Works fine for me. You have the DA drivers installed? the latest DA specific ones, not the ******ed ass synapse 2.0 stuff.


You know I think I have the 2.0 synapse... where do I get the latest drivers, I went directly to Razer website....


----------



## karod

Look under archive drivers.

For the 3500 it would be this one

http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=236&pcid=147&nav=0,76,168,48,147


----------



## ninjaturtletavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Look under archive drivers.
> For the 3500 it would be this one
> http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=236&pcid=147&nav=0,76,168,48,147


Thanks alot! I'll do this once I get home, so I should just uninstall the 2.0 crap right?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjaturtletavo*
> 
> Thanks alot! I'll do this once I get home, so I should just uninstall the 2.0 crap right?


yep. synapse 2.0 should be considered a bad beta driver at best.


----------



## ninjaturtletavo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> yep. synapse 2.0 should be considered a bad beta driver at best.


Okay did that and now I'm just wondering how do I change the DPI settings? The only thing I can do is change in the menu of games by lowering sensitivity.. is that all I can do?


----------



## karod

You are talking about the razer driver?

Don't you see the DPI settings down at the bottom?


----------



## hella

Zero! Glad to see you're still holding down the fort. I haven't been on in a while; is there anything I should update the main page with?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> Zero! Glad to see you're still holding down the fort. I haven't been on in a while; is there anything I should update the main page with?


Thanks. I try to do what I can









I suggest adding a warning not to use the latest "synapse 2.0" drivers, at least until they are fixed. In their current state, a lot of the settings are just plain wrong (along with the labels for left-hand edition).

Unless I'm mistaken, these drivers are now shipping with _all_ new driver-using razer products (starting with the naga hex I believe), and is a single package for all devices (similar to what saitek and logitech do with their respective gaming products).

If someone has bought one of these devices and installed the drivers for it, it will also override the deathadder's drivers. The user will need to pick which device they are willing to go driver-less (or bugged/old drivers) with until the issue is resolved.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjaturtletavo*
> 
> Okay did that and now I'm just wondering how do I change the DPI settings? The only thing I can do is change in the menu of games by lowering sensitivity.. is that all I can do?


The post under yours should solve that issue. If not, make sure you have the latest stable (pre-synapse 2.0) drivers and firmware installed. You may need to find a 32 bit machine in order to flash the firmware if it is out of date.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Thanks. I try to do what I can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suggest adding a warning not to use the latest "synapse 2.0" drivers, at least until they are fixed. In their current state, a lot of the settings are just plain wrong (along with the labels for left-hand edition).
> Unless I'm mistaken, these drivers are now shipping with _all_ new driver-using razer products (starting with the naga hex I believe), and is a single package for all devices (similar to what saitek and logitech do with their respective gaming products).
> If someone has bought one of these devices and installed the drivers for it, it will also override the deathadder's drivers. The user will need to pick which device they are willing to go driver-less (or bugged/old drivers) with until the issue is resolved.


Cool. I actually have a saved copy of the 1.35 NDC, 1.39 NDC, and 1.40 DC drivers in case anyone wants them.

If anyone has a file hosting service let me know. I'd like to have these available on the deathadder megathread so send me a PM.


----------



## ivr56

Got a Deathadder around when BF3 launched.
Solid mouse, well worth the 40 bucks I price matched it at for the 3.5G V3.


----------



## Freeze3371

I was just helping someone who bough a DA:BE and after seeing how bad the synapse driver was, I told them to uninstall it. Should they install another driver, or will it work fine without one?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freeze3371*
> 
> I was just helping someone who bough a DA:BE and after seeing how bad the synapse driver was, I told them to uninstall it. Should they install another driver, or will it work fine without one?


Install previous stand-alone drivers (pre-synapse 2.0) and firmware if necessary in order to get the full feature set of the mouse.

If you prefer to go dirverless, it'll work fine, but you lose the extra functions and control.


----------



## Freeze3371

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Install previous stand-alone drivers (pre-synapse 2.0) and firmware if necessary in order to get the full feature set of the mouse.
> If you prefer to go dirverless, it'll work fine, but you lose the extra functions and control.


Well I did set the polling at 1000hz and it seems to have kept that, and it should be running at 1800dpi. That's really all there is to set up. The reason I'm asking is because I read that the synapse driver introduces tracking and control speed issues.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freeze3371*
> 
> Well I did set the polling at 1000hz and it seems to have kept that, and it should be running at 1800dpi. That's really all there is to set up. The reason I'm asking is because I read that the synapse driver introduces tracking and control speed issues.


correct


----------



## Azuredragon1

Loving my new deathadder black. so much better then the cheapo 10 dollar mouse i was using. any tips for setting the DA right?


----------



## splinterize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azuredragon1*
> 
> Loving my new deathadder black. so much better then the cheapo 10 dollar mouse i was using. any tips for setting the DA right?


Use it driverless


----------



## Zero4549

Driverless if that's your thing.

Otherwise, set the DPI to 1800 and polling to 500 or 1000 (preference).


----------



## Overclock Noob

Can I replace my Deathadder scroll wheel with one from a Diamondback?
And if so, where would the instructions be?
White on black would look real nice.

Thank you

will give rep


----------



## ivr56

I'm on Driver 3.05
DA works perfectly under W7 Pro 64-bit. Never tried Synapse drivers or software yet.

The mouse will be fine without drivers but you would miss out on key, sensitivity and dpi customization unless you install the Deathadder specific config software.


----------



## Overclock Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivr56*
> 
> I'm on Driver 3.05
> DA works perfectly under W7 Pro 64-bit. Never tried Synapse drivers or software yet.
> The mouse will be fine without drivers but you would miss out on key, sensitivity and dpi customization unless you install the Deathadder specific config software.


So the guy that customized his DA scroll wheel lost all those functions?


----------



## Zero4549

Afaik, the scroll wheel in the Black Edition has only need _confirmed_ to be compatible with the wheels from other deathadders (3g v3 and newer). Similar wheels like those found on zowie mice, or in the Razer mamba may also work but have not been tested.

The replacement process is very simple. Remove the mouse feet and puncture through the large sticker on the bottom to gain access to the screws that hold the mouse together. From there it should all be fairly straight forward, just be slow and careful and you will be fine.

This WILL VOID your warranty.

And no, drivers (and all related functionality) have nothing to do with replacing the scroll wheel.


----------



## mksteez

Is the deathadder black edition non glossy all around (top,side)? or just the sides?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> Is the deathadder black edition non glossy all around (top,side)? or just the sides?


It's non-glossy all around. The main difference with the Black Edition is the rubber sides compared to the original which has a glossy side.


----------



## mksteez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> It's non-glossy all around. The main difference with the Black Edition is the rubber sides compared to the original which has a glossy side.


Is the top of the mouse has the same rubbery feel as the original DA3.5?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> Is the top of the mouse has the same rubbery feel as the original DA3.5?


The top is slightly different, it's slightly more smooth.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> It's non-glossy all around. The main difference with the Black Edition is the rubber sides compared to the original which has a glossy side.


Just a small correction: the bottom and front of the black edition are glossy, but you never touch them unless you have a very weird grip, so it is not a problem.


----------



## Sencha

Just got another deathadder after being hooked on ambi mice for the last year. Damn I forgot how much I love the 3.0/DA shape. Perfectly fits my fingertip/palm hybrid grip. Very happy


----------



## Infinite Jest

Has anyone who's owned the DA: BE for a while noticed that the back where your palm rests has developed a rough feeling? My mouse has been great besides the strange texture change (not a big deal) and the spot where my thumb grips wearing through the rubber down to the plastic (slightly bigger deal but still a small issue).


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Has anyone who's owned the DA: BE for a while noticed that the back where your palm rests has developed a rough feeling? My mouse has been great besides the strange texture change (not a big deal) and the spot where my thumb grips wearing through the rubber down to the plastic (slightly bigger deal but still a small issue).


Nope. I take pretty good care of mine though (regular cleaning and such).

If you find the rubber wears off and you do no like the plastic under it, you can always re-coat it with plasti-dip. Might not look quite as nice (or might look nicer depending on your taste) but It will certainly restore the rubbery feeling (perhaps even more so than originally).


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Has anyone who's owned the DA: BE for a while noticed that the back where your palm rests has developed a rough feeling? My mouse has been great besides the strange texture change (not a big deal) and the spot where my thumb grips wearing through the rubber down to the plastic (slightly bigger deal but still a small issue).


The rubber grip wearing down is normally more than average acid on your hands from what I've heard. Do your hands sweat a lot?


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> The rubber grip wearing down is normally more than average acid on your hands from what I've heard. Do your hands sweat a lot?


Hmm, that probably explains it. I definitely get "into" games more than I should, so that probably translates to sweaty hands. I'm going to blame the worn thumb area on Amnesia and the rough palm region on Dead Space 2.


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sencha*
> 
> Just got another deathadder after being hooked on ambi mice for the last year. Damn I forgot how much I love the 3.0/DA shape. Perfectly fits my fingertip/palm hybrid grip. Very happy


I feel ya. I've tried other mice because I wanted something new, I really do like steelseries mice, but, I always come back and stick with the DA...Just can't find a more comfortable mouse...


----------



## jpierson86

Random question--- I have "Voodoo Edition" Deathadder from a few years ago. Are these worth anything now?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpierson86*
> 
> Random question--- I have "Voodoo Edition" Deathadder from a few years ago. Are these worth anything now?


Probably to the right person. It's just a normal 3g v3 with a custom face plate AFAIK (which in and of itself makes it desirable for two different reasons off the top of my head.)


----------



## Skylit

Pretty sure it's a v2.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Pretty sure it's a v2.


You could be right. I've forgotten TBH.


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Pretty sure it's a v2.


It's a V3









Yesss I knew something the master of gaming mice didn't know.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> It's a V3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesss I knew something the master of gaming mice didn't know.


USB plug is reminiscent of the first OEM. Could have swore I've seen one of these tore down too.

Whos wrong?


----------



## Overclock Noob

Just got my Deathadder Black edition today and it's just what I was expecting. High quality gaming mouse in the palm of my hand. Does not have tracking issues. Matched with a Razer Sphex and it glides like cannabis butter.

Bought this a week ago and already the price went down. I paid 50$ but it's 42$ on newegg. Still very happy with it. I would recommend to any of my hardcore gamers out there.

Also I was using a logitech mbt96a that I stole from school before the Deathadder.


----------



## jpierson86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> USB plug is reminiscent of the first OEM. Could have swore I've seen one of these tore down too.
> Whos wrong?


Looks like I'll have to dig it out of my gf's storage unit and put this argument to rest. Might even try to sell it here too haha.

I remember when I got it and the matching Tarantula keyboard. They looked rad together.


----------



## Overclock Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tom2k11*
> 
> I can also produce this jitter *when the mouse is rotated by 45 degrees*. It happened on all 3 of my DAs. Fortunately I am using a low sens + palm grip so I hardly rotate the mouse, although this could be a killer for claw grip.


Those jitters are human error, not the mouse's fault. I can use a palm grip or claw grip comfortably.
I would recommend Razer mouse pads for Razer mice for effortless gliding.









Also I was wondering how I could upgrade the feet on the DA? Clear tape? Or take the feet off my old diamondback and plop it right on top?

Just checked their website and they're selling them again. 16.20$ for a set of 2 feet... hmmm


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> USB plug is reminiscent of the first OEM. Could have swore I've seen one of these tore down too.
> Whos wrong?


Okay, I just looked up some pictures of the voodoo edition. Turns out it has the same sticker as the V2.

You're right this time. BUT I'm gonna trump you on something soon... just you wait


----------



## splinterize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclock Noob*
> 
> Those jitters are human error, not the mouse's fault. I can use a palm grip or claw grip comfortably.
> I would recommend Razer mouse pads for Razer mice for effortless gliding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I was wondering how I could upgrade the feet on the DA? Clear tape? Or take the feet off my old diamondback and plop it right on top?
> Just checked their website and they're selling them again. 16.20$ for a set of 2 feet... hmmm


you could always buy a set of hyperglides, they are 9,65$ including shipping for 2 sets.


----------



## IloveKuchen

http://www.itaktech.com/mouse-feet/razer/deathadder-mamba-0-18mm-black-mouse-feet.html
Least expensive teflon mousefeet.


----------



## manicmonkey

Hey guys, got a DA:BE last week and it blows my old G500 out of the water! I have a question regarding people's grip on the DA. Do you guys position your thumb as far down as possible so its essentially touching the mousepad? Or do you have it higher up resting on the side button?

Reason I ask is I have been having trouble adjusting compared to my G500. When playing and moving my mouse left my thumb pad/ball sticks to the mousepad and increases the friction essentially stopping my movement past a certain point. The only other thing i can think of is its my mousepad (Roccat Taito) which feels clammy after some usage.


----------



## karod

Hi,
I have the normal DA 3500.
When I grip my I have my thumb below the side buttons and the thumb touches the mouse pad a bit.

I use a fingertip grip. The middle finger rests on top of the mouse wheel (in claw grip style), the ring finger on the right mouse button.
The little finger is very low on the rights side, it touches the mouse pad slightly, too.

I guess, that is because I use high dpi (1800) and a hard mouse pad (Razer Destructor). I use my thumb and little finger to stop the mouse, I lift them a little while moving and make a slight downward pressure to stop the mouse more exactly.

PS: From the tip of my middle finger down to the beginning of my palm (carpus) I measure 18,5cm or 7,28"


----------



## hella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicmonkey*
> 
> Hey guys, got a DA:BE last week and it blows my old G500 out of the water! I have a question regarding people's grip on the DA. Do you guys position your thumb as far down as possible so its essentially touching the mousepad? Or do you have it higher up resting on the side button?
> Reason I ask is I have been having trouble adjusting compared to my G500. When playing and moving my mouse left my thumb pad/ball sticks to the mousepad and increases the friction essentially stopping my movement past a certain point. The only other thing i can think of is its my mousepad (Roccat Taito) which feels clammy after some usage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Hi,
> I have the normal DA 3500.
> When I grip my I have my thumb below the side buttons and the thumb touches the mouse pad a bit.
> I use a fingertip grip. The middle finger rests on top of the mouse wheel (in claw grip style), the ring finger on the right mouse button.
> The little finger is very low on the rights side, it touches the mouse pad slightly, too.
> I guess, that is because I use high dpi (1800) and a hard mouse pad (Razer Destructor). I use my thumb and little finger to stop the mouse, I lift them a little while moving and make a slight downward pressure to stop the mouse more exactly.
> PS: From the tip of my middle finger down to the beginning of my palm (carpus) I measure 18,5cm or 7,28"


''

I actually use two different fingertip grips for my deathadder. For FPS, i use my ring, middle, and index finger on the corresponding M1/M3/M2 keys, and in this position, my thumb rests on the mousepad.

For RTS games I have my index finger and my middle finger on M1/M2. In this position my thumb rests on the side of the mouse and does not touch the mousepad.

It sounds like both of your problems are coming from the mousepad. I don't encounter any stickyness with my cloth pad.


----------



## manicmonkey

Update - turns out it was my Roccat Taito that was causing me issues, which lead to me getting paranoid about my grip on the mouse as well! I have since switched to a Razer Goliathus Control and it feels infinitely better.


----------



## Z Overlord

So I got a DA BE and am using it on a brand new Artisan Hayate

It seems to have a sand paper like affect on it, idk why, people said the DA was practically made for this pad


----------



## end0rphine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> So I got a DA BE and am using it on a brand new Artisan Hayate
> It seems to have a sand paper like affect on it, idk why, people said the DA was practically made for this pad


cord scratching against the pad?


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *end0rphine*
> 
> cord scratching against the pad?


no


----------



## DeMS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> no


Did you replace the original mousefeet?


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeMS*
> 
> Did you replace the original mousefeet?


no


----------



## Diogenes5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> So I got a DA BE and am using it on a brand new Artisan Hayate
> It seems to have a sand paper like affect on it, idk why, people said the DA was practically made for this pad


I had the same problem. Death adder feet are just terrible. I replaced them right away.


----------



## Z Overlord

what do I replace them with?


----------



## Zero4549

Corepads and Hyperglides are both great for the DA.

Hypers have a bit more quality to them, cores more durability. Pick your preference.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Corepads and Hyperglides are both great for the DA.
> Hypers have a bit more quality to them, cores more durability. Pick your preference.


just ordered a hyperglides, how long do you imagine it'd take to come? US


----------



## Vikhr

It may take a couple of weeks if you got it straight from Hyperglides, you may want to cancel that order and try this:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5564/pad-125/Hyperglide_Mouse_Skates_RZ-2_-_6_Skates_-_DeathAdder_DA.html if you want to get the feet sooner.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vikhr*
> 
> It may take a couple of weeks if you got it straight from Hyperglides, you may want to cancel that order and try this:http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5564/pad-125/Hyperglide_Mouse_Skates_RZ-2_-_6_Skates_-_DeathAdder_DA.html if you want to get the feet sooner.


ok will do


----------



## Diogenes5

So I took my DeathAdder Black Edition apart to put switch out the switches for some D2F-01F switches. It was easy enough to do but the ribbon cable that connects the top PCB to the Bottom, sensor-containing PCB broke almost instantly. I had to solder it back on very carefully as the ribbon is 10 different leads that are very tiny and close together. However, I was able to solder the cable back on and now have a much softer-feeling but still tactile Death Adder Black. It's good enough for even SC2 now IMO as the clicks now feel like my CM Storm Spawn.

I feel with this small mod, the DE BE becomes the very best Palm Mouse out there.


----------



## Overclock Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *splinterize*
> 
> you could always buy a set of hyperglides, they are 9,65$ including shipping for 2 sets.


Thanks! Will definitely pick them up!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicmonkey*
> 
> Hey guys, got a DA:BE last week and it blows my old G500 out of the water! I have a question regarding people's grip on the DA. Do you guys position your thumb as far down as possible so its essentially touching the mousepad? Or do you have it higher up resting on the side button?
> Reason I ask is I have been having trouble adjusting compared to my G500. When playing and moving my mouse left my thumb pad/ball sticks to the mousepad and increases the friction essentially stopping my movement past a certain point. The only other thing i can think of is its my mousepad (Roccat Taito) which feels clammy after some usage.


When I use a palm grip its more like my palm or hand is moving the mouse, but when I use the claw grip its more like precise click with more wrist movement.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diogenes5*
> 
> So I took my DeathAdder Black Edition apart to put switch out the switches for some D2F-01F switches. It was easy enough to do but the ribbon cable that connects the top PCB to the Bottom, sensor-containing PCB broke almost instantly. I had to solder it back on very carefully as the ribbon is 10 different leads that are very tiny and close together. However, I was able to solder the cable back on and now have a much softer-feeling but still tactile Death Adder Black. It's good enough for even SC2 now IMO as the clicks now feel like my CM Storm Spawn.
> I feel with this small mod, the DE BE becomes the very best Palm Mouse out there.


That sucks about the cable, must have been defective. Good think you're stilled with that iron and great job on the mod


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Hey guys I've just bought this mouse, should be here on Thursday. I was wondering how much of a difference should I notice when using this mouse compared to my generic dell mouse? Right now I'm playing tribes and I suck at aiming. My hand is constantly moving and I'm never making any shots.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hey guys I've just bought this mouse, should be here on Thursday. I was wondering how much of a difference should I notice when using this mouse compared to my generic dell mouse? Right now I'm playing tribes and I suck at aiming. My hand is constantly moving and I'm never making any shots.


Tribes eh? Tribes Ascend I presume? Good man! Should probably mention that if you are new to the tribes franchise, aiming could take some getting used to with _any_ mouse.

The Deathadder is one of the best mice out there. The same, drivers, buttons and such are all subjective of course, but there simply is not a mouse out there that _tracks_ significantly better. Compared to a dell mouse... it should blow it out of the water if you're at all sensitive to tracking.

Also, add me in game, same name. If you're new, I've played all 6 (yes 6) tribes games and would be more than happy to give you some tips. If not, its always nice to play with the few remaining veterans


----------



## ANDMYGUN

haha. I suck right now, once I get better I will add you and we shall *OWN THE WORLD*.


----------



## Michalko

synapse 2.0 is now fixed?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalko*
> 
> synapse 2.0 is now fixed?


Looks like it. I havn't tested it myself yet, but out resident Razer Driver programmer said its good to go. Give it a try!


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Looks like it. I havn't tested it myself yet, but out resident Razer Driver programmer said its good to go. Give it a try!


He's not really a programmer or affiliated directly with Razer.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> He's not really a programmer or affiliated directly with Razer.


Is that so?


----------



## Michalko

help, i set dpi change on 4 and 5 buttons but when i change dpi it auto-change to default.


----------



## Overclock Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalko*
> 
> help, i set dpi change on 4 and 5 buttons but when i change dpi it auto-change to default.


I'm not sure, but maybe the DPI settings are preset. You can try using a DPI setting in the middle and the two side buttons can be default for the lower dpi setting and the higher one.

This is my guess. If this does not work, try AutoHotKey program.


----------



## Michalko

thanks, now it works. But i have another problem. My cursor is lagging when driver loading..


----------



## SinX7

Deathadder Black edition vs. G500.

Which one has better performance?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Deathadder Black edition vs. G500.
> Which one has better performance?


The deathahadder by far. If you like the G500 shape then you should buy the G400, which actually has higher tracking performance than G500. I own a G400 myself and it is a solid mouse.


----------



## Zetachaox

Greetings, first time poster here.

I got a Deathadder black edition a few days ago, its a wonderful mouse, I'm still getting used to the sensitivity, and wondering what dpi should i set the thing to. I come from one of those cheap microsoft mice.

I'm currently using synapse 2.0, it seems fine, but it doesn't load until i login, that means that during the login screen, (and maybe during other bios or recovery menus?) I'm stuck with the default dpi, any way to change this? its too jittery for my taste.

Thank you for your time.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zetachaox*
> 
> Greetings, first time poster here.
> I got a Deathadder black edition a few days ago, its a wonderful mouse, I'm still getting used to the sensitivity, and wondering what dpi should i set the thing to. I come from one of those cheap microsoft mice.
> I'm currently using synapse 2.0, it seems fine, but it doesn't load until i login, that means that during the login screen, (and maybe during other bios or recovery menus?) I'm stuck with the default dpi, any way to change this? its too jittery for my taste.
> Thank you for your time.


Atleast on the DABE the default DPI is 1800 which also happens to be the most accurate DPI on a DA, so bad DPI can't cause the jitter you are experiencing. I'm running my DA without drivers at all and works like a charm so uninstalling Synapse may fix your problem. You could also try the pre Synapse drivers for your deathadder.


----------



## Zetachaox

I didn't mean jittery as in bad tracking, more as in "whoah this is way too sensitive for me to control properly so im moving it all over the place trying to get a handle on it"







jitter probably wasn't the right word for it.

Will using pre-synapse drivers allow me to reconfigure dpi? How do i go about uninstalling synapse and installing the old drivers? i know replacing drivers can be tricky for some things, not sure about mice.

I'm also concerned about the firmware updates, is it true they reduce LOD?


----------



## ANDMYGUN

I got my Deathadder today! yay! one thing is I suck. like badly. I'm still getting used to it. However should I use the drivers?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Is that so?


You actually thought a 17 year old was programming drivers for Razer? Oh gosh.


----------



## Zetachaox

I uninstalled synapse and installed the old drivers, so far they seem to be working better, i was having problems with the mouse using 3500dpi for the first few seconds at boot until synapse loaded, which was a bit disconcerting. Should work better now since old drivers use onboard memory instead of the cloud, A curious thing is that the old driver's 1800dpi seems "slower" or "smoother" than 1800 with synapse, but that could just be a suggestive impression.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zetachaox*
> 
> I didn't mean jittery as in bad tracking, more as in "whoah this is way too sensitive for me to control properly so im moving it all over the place trying to get a handle on it"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jitter probably wasn't the right word for it.
> Will using pre-synapse drivers allow me to reconfigure dpi? How do i go about uninstalling synapse and installing the old drivers? i know replacing drivers can be tricky for some things, not sure about mice.
> I'm also concerned about the firmware updates, is it true they reduce LOD?


You can just uninstall the old drivers and install new ones after that. You can reboot after uninstalling the old ones if you want. The drivers have 4 DPI steps which are 3500, 1800 900 and 450. The advanced sensitivity slider also adjusts DPI AFAIK, but I'm not sure about how much the DPI increases/decreases per step. Also the firmware you got with your DA should be fairly new and updating propably won't decrease LOD.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Can someone help me out. I just installed the drivers and 3.500 dpi is way to high for me. So I'm using 1800 dpi. What is "polling rate" and what should I set it too? also the game I play has a build in sensitivity meter, does the game choose the in game sensitivity or the ones I choose from the driver settings?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Can someone help me out. I just installed the drivers and 3.500 dpi is way to high for me. So I'm using 1800 dpi. What is "polling rate" and what should I set it too? also the game I play has a build in sensitivity meter, does the game choose the in game sensitivity or the ones I choose from the driver settings?


1800dpi is perfectly fine, in fact it is widely considered better than 3500 in terms of tracking.

Polling rate is how frequently the computer reads a new position from the mouse. 1000hz means it will update 1000 times per second. Considering that even the fastest monitors that anyone is likely to be using are 120hz, even the lowest setting is perfectly acceptable for anyone with human reflexes, although there's nothing wrong with a bit of overkill.

Just leave the windows and razer sensitivities at default and adjust within games. Anything else and stuff can get a bit wonky.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> I got my Deathadder today! yay! one thing is I suck. like badly. I'm still getting used to it. However should I use the drivers?


I'm sure they can't hurt, but I've been driverless since I bought the mouse and it has worked flawlessly.


----------



## TheOddOne

Just got my Black Edition for $40 from my local computer store sale







it feels great, but I gotta look out for my cat to not scratch this beauty


----------



## splinterize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOddOne*
> 
> Just got my Black Edition for $40 from my local computer store sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it feels great, but I gotta look out for my cat to not scratch this beauty


Good choice! I hope you'll enjoy yours as much as I do enjoy mine. I keep switching between a G400 and a Deathadder and the DA is def. my favourite.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

I'm super weird. I think it was just me.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> I'm super weird. I think it was just me.


It'll take some getting used to since you've always used cheap OEM mice in the past, from what I recall. Suddenly, acceleration is gone and your sensitivity has multiplied by a factor of 8!

It's all good though. You'll never want to go back once you get used to it. Perhaps try gaming at a lower dpi for the first month or so to get used to the shape and handling of the mouse without having to get used to the higher dpi as well. Once you're more accustomed to it, knock the dpi up one level at a time until you're comfortable at 1800.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Thanks Zero, you always have the answer.


----------



## Overclock Noob

I'll be buying another Deathadder when mine doesn't function properly. IMO it's an awesome gaming mouse. It's almost to good to be true. Also I was looking into buying some Hyperglides for my DA since the stock feet are wearing down and I don't wanna scratch the bottom of the mouse. Is it okay to put the Hyperglides over the stock mouse feet?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclock Noob*
> 
> I'll be buying another Deathadder when mine doesn't function properly. IMO it's an awesome gaming mouse. It's almost to good to be true. Also I was looking into buying some Hyperglides for my DA since the stock feet are wearing down and I don't wanna scratch the bottom of the mouse. Is it okay to put the Hyperglides over the stock mouse feet?


It's not just ok, I recommend it, even on brand new deathadders. The default feet are far too thin and the added thickness of doubling up on feet helps reduce both the LOD and the physical drag of the mouse.


----------



## kamen555

How do I find out what firmware version is on my Deathadder 3.5G? I couldn't find it anywhere on Synapse 2.0. When I try to update the firmware to 2.45, the firmware program says Current Version 0.00 and closes immediately when I clicked OK to begin update. When I open it again it still says Current Version 0.00, so does it mean my firmware wasn't updated?


----------



## karod

Uninstall synapse. Download the older software from the archive at the razer website. Then it shows up at the top


----------



## kamen555

Thanks Deathadder driver 3.02 do show I have firmware 2.45. Now do I keep this old software or Synapse 2.0?


----------



## karod

In my opinion, keep the "old" software.
Seems more stable.

Gesendet von meinem HTC One X mit Tapatalk


----------



## Rakin

The old software is better, synapse doesn't load settings on the memory hence everytime I go to LAN outings I need to install the driver while with the old software the last used setting is remembered on the memory :


----------



## Zero4549

Another vote for non-synapse.


----------



## Dunan

I avoid synapse/cloud drivers like the plague. When I needed drivers/firmware for my DA I went to the archive.


----------



## krokdylz

I don't trust this synapse. For starters when i fire up my pc and log in to win the cursor goes crazy with synapse and sometimes it hangs for a brief time. I just don't get it out of the back of my head that this could happen ingame


----------



## Piospi

Do Steelpad 5L is good for DA 3.5G ?


----------



## boogdud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krokdylz*
> 
> I don't trust this synapse. For starters when i fire up my pc and log in to win the cursor goes crazy with synapse and sometimes it hangs for a brief time. I just don't get it out of the back of my head that this could happen ingame


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but when an update arrives synapse will update *no matter what*. It doesn't matter if you're in a game. Had it happen to me, basically took control of my mouse for about 3-5 minutes. This stuff has to go.


----------



## Vikhr

Just tried the Synapse drivers again to see if they are still terrible, and indeed they are. Still consistent ~2.2m/s tracking speed at all CPI levels, 1000hz polling rate polls 500hz, tracking quality is even worse at higher CPI.

I find it annoying that the older (better) drivers aren't on the main driver page, you actually have to go into a driver archive for your respective mouse and download it from there. Anyone that doesn't know better will download the Synapse drivers thinking that those are the best when in reality the best drivers are hidden obscurely and the ones on the main page are completely awful.

y u do dis razer


----------



## Dunan

I wont use the synapse drivers. I tried the synapse installer the other day for my DA, and the first thing it wanted me to do is create a login & PW. How utterly ridiculous. So just for kicks, I made a login/PW for it and when i went to log in IMMEDIATELY after, it told me my email/username/PW was wrong.

Uninstalled. Went to the driver archive. All is right with the world.









Why is razer doing this now, this really is ridiculous. Hope other companies dont follow suit.


----------



## boogdud

I have no idea why they're doing it. It's really disappointing. At least as a deathadder user you have the option to use old drivers. Any of the newer mice don't even have an archive so you _have_ to use the synapse software.


----------



## Phillychuck

They want to put Cloud mouse on the box to sell more, I wish they just had an Offline mode, or handled start-up a little better. Having the mouse DPI spaz out for a few seconds is just odd on a modern, fast system.


----------



## Dunan

I think I'm going to write razer and tell them that until they start writing normal drivers for their mice, I won't be buying any more products from them, I own quite a few razer mice. The last time I wrote them I told them they sold out after making a mouse for M$ and I got a reply back from the owner about how it was good for business blah blah blah


----------



## Skylit

Just use the old set. Sensitivity scaling is pretty inaccurate on synapse 2.0.

I wrote a list of CPI values via sensitivity slide on both 1800 & 3500 CPI. (original 3.05 Driver) Link

Of course its best to use values 5 and 2.5 as they're evenly calculated.


----------



## karod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> For Reference:
> Deathadder Sensitivity Scaling (driver interpolation) :
> 1800 CPI:
> 10 = 1800 CPI
> 9.5 = 1710 CPI
> 9 = 1620 CPI
> 8.5 = 1530 CPI
> 8 = 1440 CPI
> 7.5 = 1350 CPI
> 7 = 1260 CPI
> 6.5 = 1170 CPI
> 6 = 1080 CPI
> 5.5 = 990 CPI
> 5 = 900 CPI
> 4.5 = 810 CPI
> 4 = 720 CPI
> 3.5 = 630 CPI
> 3 = 540 CPI
> 2.5 = 450 CPI
> 2 = 360 CPI
> 1.5 = 270 CPI
> 1 = 180 CPI


The weird thing is, the slider does not match the lines of the scale.

You can try this, when you set for example Mouse Button 4 to On-the-fly -sensitivity.

The lowest large line is 1, the first line, the small one is zero.
Then you count the big lines till 5 and end up next to the 6.
And in reality, according to the on the fly sensitivity you even didn't select 5, but 5.5


----------



## Skylit

That's exactly how I change the sensitivity. Silly that the image has been off for all these years.


----------



## imagran

I am kinda outdated with Deathadder.

Is the Lod fixed? I remember it was like 3 CDs and you had to fix it with tape.
Is the Jitter gone? If not when does occur?

I want to use it at 900 dpi for CS GO, so I want i to be pretty damn accurate.

thansk for help


----------



## Skylit

There's no specific lift off distance of any mouse, though I understand that you might have issues on most dark cloth surfaces. To answer your first question, the DA is configured properly to work on as many surfaces as possible. It has a lower lift off distance on most hardsurfaces. Lift off is still "higher" on most darker cloth surfaces.

Jitter can occur on any mouse pad. The more optimal mouse pads such as the Goliathus speed don't show me any noticeable jitter at 900 CPI.


----------



## Overclock Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> It's not just ok, I recommend it, even on brand new deathadders. The default feet are far too thin and the added thickness of doubling up on feet helps reduce both the LOD and the physical drag of the mouse.


Thanks for the reply! I ordered the hyperglides a couple days ago. Waiting to double-up on the feet since I already noticed some unsually large scratches on the bottom of my DA.


----------



## BulletSponge

If you like teflon check this out,CS Hyde C4-NGen04 Large Mousepad with Gear. It's a very large mousepad,less than 1mm thick and can be easily cut into whatever shape you need if necessary.


----------



## y2kcamaross

I think even the hyperglides are too thin, I've been using hte puretrak HD feet lately, only problem is they don't round the edges...which is a pain in the butt


----------



## BulletSponge

If you just want some skates for the feet this is a great deal, CS Hyde Teflon Mouse Tape, Tan Color, 0.5" x 5 yds. 15' of mouse tape is a much better value. Bought this myself and have only used about 1' in the last year.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> If you just want some skates for the feet this is a great deal, CS Hyde Teflon Mouse Tape, Tan Color, 0.5" x 5 yds. 15' of mouse tape is a much better value. Bought this myself and have only used about 1' in the last year.


How would you apply that to the death adder? Cut it out so it looks similar to the feet?


----------



## imagran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> There's no specific lift off distance of any mouse, though I understand that you might have issues on most dark cloth surfaces. To answer your first question, the DA is configured properly to work on as many surfaces as possible. It has a lower lift off distance on most hardsurfaces. Lift off is still "higher" on most darker cloth surfaces.
> Jitter can occur on any mouse pad. The more optimal mouse pads such as the Goliathus speed don't show me any noticeable jitter at 900 CPI.


Thanks a lot for your response!









I am still thinking and choosing between Deathadder and Kana.

Kana seems oddly superior to DA. It has low lod, no jitter, high perfect control speed, shape of WMO, no prediction and acceleration.

As I only need 800-900 dpi what is the better choice in terms of tracking and preformance?


----------



## Skylit

Kana lift off distance can get fairly high on some pads. Has an angle snapping (prediction) curve as well.

Tracking wise the Kana is fine at lower 400 and 800 steps, at least on a fair bit of surfaces. The 3200 CPI registry used for the 1600 DPI step doesn't perform well. 3200 CPI is interpolated off that very step.


----------



## imagran

I am just asking about tracking performance of Kana and DA. What about fps of both sensors of both sensors on both mices?


----------



## .:hybrid:.

What are peoples thoughts on buying a refurbished deathadder? These things are really expensive in the netherlands


----------



## ChromeBeauty

I think about going to a DA(again) but this time the BE, what is the difference to the normal 3500 DA?
Lights are missing and the surface on the sides and on top are different, is that all?
If so can anyone describe the surfaces a bit more?
The surface on the side looks like the top surface of a 3500 DA, are they the same?
How is the top of the BE, looks metallic but seems to be rubber(some say glossy?) like?

Another question, the famous double click problem, where is the problem exactly?
Is it the switch or is it the trigger of the mouse button?
I just wonder if changing the switch will resolve the problem or not.


----------



## karod

The top is matt plastic I guess

Gesendet von meinem HTC One X


----------



## nonamed

Black Edition has completely different coating than old DA 3G and DA 350. In BE it is more 'plastic' , not rubber . Personally I moved back to my old DA 3G because BlacEdition was too slippy for my hands (more or less sweaty - depends on temperature) . I wonder why they change the top coating in BE... now I still prefer those raw glossy plastic sides which provides me better grip than BE ''matte plastic' sides...

Regards.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Question between, are new mouse feet recommended?
I had a hard plastic pad at first and it seriously damaged my mouse feet so I didn't use the originals a lot especially not on my cloth pads I used thereafter, so are new Teflon(PTFE) feet recommended or are the originals OK?


----------



## Zero4549

To address the questions asked in the last few posts:

The "doubleclick" issue is caused by the PCB physically bending and rebounding under the pressure of one's fingers when pressing on a switch. Changing the switch, the type of plastic used, or the coating won't ever fix that - it comes down to the PCB itself and the way it is anchored to the shell of the mouse.

Personally, I've only had this issue on one of my four deathadders and it was fixed simply by tightening the anchoring screws. If that still isn't enough, you can use some non-conductive materials to better support the PCB under the switches. (or you can just not press so darn hard







)
__________

The black edition has nearly identical internals to the "normal" 3500 dpi DA. It has the front LED itself and the rear LED power connections removed, as well as the entire rear LED PCB. The anchoring for the rear LED PCB still exists in the shell of the DA:BE, but is unoccupied. The plastic lens may be slightly different as well, though I can't tell if that's because they are actually manufactured that way, or because the Black Edition's is simply newer and less worn.

The plastic used for construction of the main shell has a rougher matte texture rather than the glossy smooth plastic on the "normal" DA. It is also cured better and lacks the telltale "swirls" of poorly manufactured plastics.

The *top* covering (metallic looking) is _less_ rubbery than on the original deathadder, but is indeed still rubberized. It is a _smoother_ coating than on the original. The *side* coating (matte black) is a bit thicker and rougher than the top, and while it has a more rubbery feel, it is still _less_ rubbery than the top of an original DA.

The only remaining change is purely cosmetic - the scroll wheel is opaque black rather than translucent white. Overall, the changes do not significantly alter the _performance_ compared to a normal 3.5g DA, but it does make it _slightly_ lighter weight. It is obviously visually different, as well as how it feels, but both matters are entirely subjective. The only cut and dry _improvement_ is in the physical shell construction quality.
__________

There is not much point to _replacing_ the default mouse feet on a Deathadder of _any_ type, as they _all_ have belly-dragging issues, even with the thickest of aftermarket feet. The only model that can perhaps get around this issue is the original v2 1800dpi version which has not been available for several years, and even then, only on a hard surface.

_instead of *replacing* the feet, *double stack them*!_ Stick a set of official razer, hyperglide, or corepad deathadder feet right on top of the stock feet. As long as you properly clean the original feet, the second layer will hold just fine and wont fall off. The additional lift will completely solve any dragging issues and significantly prolong the useful lifespan of the replacement feet. It will even help reduce the high LOD that many users complain about.

Hope that covered everything, sorry I haven't had as much time for OCN as usual


----------



## ChromeBeauty

I wonder why some fixes for this problem mention using spray(contact spray) on it, what doesn't resolve the problem but you buy yourself some more months without that problem.
Never thought the problem could be below the switch.

Thanks for the idea with the feet, I will try that although I never had the feeling that the DAs belly rubs over my pad.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> I wonder why some fixes for this problem mention using spray(contact spray) on it, what doesn't resolve the problem but you buy yourself some more months without that problem.
> Never thought the problem could be below the switch.
> Thanks for the idea with the feet, I will try that although I never had the feeling that the DAs belly rubs over my pad.


If the switches themselves get _REALLY_ filthy, they can stick and ride the actuation point, which would also cause a double click issue. In that case it would work.

That said, that issue (much like the PCB bending) can occur on _any_ mechanical switch, but unlike the PCB bending, is (imo) significantly harder to achieve unless you're just completely filthy and reckless with your mouse, which I'm assuming most people on sites like OCN would know better than to do


----------



## Overclock Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> I wonder why some fixes for this problem mention using spray(contact spray) on it, what doesn't resolve the problem but you buy yourself some more months without that problem.
> Never thought the problem could be below the switch.
> Thanks for the idea with the feet, I will try that although I never had the feeling that the DAs belly rubs over my pad.


Also note the front and the bottom of the mouse is still glossy. I put hyperglides on top of the stock feet since they wore out in 2 weeks. They work flawlessly.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Any suggestion for what feet I should use or are any Teflon(PTFE) feet OK?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Any suggestion for what feet I should use or are any Teflon(PTFE) feet OK?


Hyperglides, Corepads, or even the official replacements from razer will all work fine and are pre-cut to the right size and shape to be _stacked on top of the stock feet_. You also get 2 sets with all 3 options, so you can double-up even if you already tossed or ruined your originals.

Personally, I'd suggest hypers if you want the best experience up front, or corepads if you want a longer useful lifespan for the same (or even less) cost, at the expense of a short break-in period. (the hypers are significantly more rounded, which means they have a perfect glide from day 1 but wear out faster as they have less total material. The cores have straighter edges and thus don't glide as smooth until they're worn in a bit, but they'll last longer because of that, and also cost less.)


----------



## Stuuut

Hey just bought and installed the DeathAdder 3.5g








Just a few questions it also installed drivers for DA keyboard which i don't have but when i try to uninstall that the RazerSynapse program doesn't work anymore..... and my Logitech keyboard is acting a little weird keys being stuck and stuff or not registering keystrokes.

Also i assume on the drivers page that HID-Mouse are my old drivers from my old mouse and i can uninstall them?

So anything else i need to know before i start enjoying this mice? BTW i choose the DA 3.5g because i like the rubbery surface more then the smooth one and if i'm correct the Black Edition has a smooth surface right and other then that there are no differences?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Hey just bought and installed the DeathAdder 3.5g
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few questions it also installed drivers for DA keyboard which i don't have but when i try to uninstall that the RazerSynapse program doesn't work anymore..... and my Logitech keyboard is acting a little weird keys being stuck and stuff or not registering keystrokes.
> Also i assume on the drivers page that HID-Mouse are my old drivers from my old mouse and i can uninstall them?
> So anything else i need to know before i start enjoying this mice? BTW i choose the DA 3.5g because i like the rubbery surface more then the smooth one and if i'm correct the Black Edition has a smooth surface right and other then that there are no differences?


Skim through the last page or 2, all your questions have been answered too recently to really justify me saying them again.


----------



## shigen

My old 1800dpi deathadder's shell has started to "bounce" a little. Its hard to explain, since my native language is not english, but ill try my best.

Whenever i press m1 and after that m2, the right side of the shell bounces up a little, and it feels "clonky







" . Does this sound fixable? I tried the bottom screws and they were tight as hell, so i dont think those causes this.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shigen*
> 
> My old 1800dpi deathadder's shell has started to "bounce" a little. Its hard to explain, since my native language is not english, but ill try my best.
> Whenever i press m1 and after that m2, the right side of the shell bounces up a little, and it feels "clonky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " . Does this sound fixable? I tried the bottom screws and they were tight as hell, so i dont think those causes this.


since you've already tested the screws (and thus removed the stickers, voiding the warranty... not that it matters since you said it's a 1800dpi and thus too old to be under warranty im sure), go ahead and open her up. Something could be out of place inside


----------



## pez

Hey guys, figured here was the appropriate place to ask, but what mouse do you guys prefer in mobile gaming? I've always stuck to my DeathAdder because of the shape. I went from a MX518 to an 'original' DeathAdder, and then from that to my Black Edition. I've been looking at Logitech and Razer's wireless options for my MBA for some more easy going gaming, but haven't decided yet. The average 'wireless laptop mouse' is just too small for me.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

So just have a new DA BE in my hands, feels good for now.

Question, what drivers should I use?
The latest(Synapses) is cloud based and I don't like that, especially as the driver wants to install MS Netframework.
What other driver version could/should i use?

Also is the BE driver different from the normal DA driver?
I see a 3.05 driver for the normal DA and a 1.02 driver for the BE.

Not sure what Firmware it uses now but is a firmware update recommended?

Last but not least, I wonder if the foil that is under the mouse could be of any use for better performance on my cloth pad, does anyone leave the foil under it?


----------



## xNEM3S1Sx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Hey guys, figured here was the appropriate place to ask, but what mouse do you guys prefer in mobile gaming? I've always stuck to my DeathAdder because of the shape. I went from a MX518 to an 'original' DeathAdder, and then from that to my Black Edition. I've been looking at Logitech and Razer's wireless options for my MBA for some more easy going gaming, but haven't decided yet. The average 'wireless laptop mouse' is just too small for me.


The Mamba is almost the same shape as the DA, but I doubt your jumping to spend 130 bucks on a mouse for your laptop. The Orochi is decent from what I know, but it isn't quite on par with the DA's performance. Still far better than just a standard low end wireless mouse. It's smaller, but not quite as small as most wireless mice. Certainly still usable.

Watch some reviews, look at all your options. Try out stuff at best buy if you can. Its definitely worth the time spent. Past sensor performance, most of a mouse's characteristics are personal preference.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xNEM3S1Sx*
> 
> The Mamba is almost the same shape as the DA, but I doubt your jumping to spend 130 bucks on a mouse for your laptop. The Orochi is decent from what I know, but it isn't quite on par with the DA's performance. Still far better than just a standard low end wireless mouse. It's smaller, but not quite as small as most wireless mice. Certainly still usable.
> Watch some reviews, look at all your options. Try out stuff at best buy if you can. Its definitely worth the time spent. Past sensor performance, most of a mouse's characteristics are personal preference.


Yeah, I was considering the Mamba, but as you said, I felt it a little crazy to spend that much on a mouse for my laptop. I did also look at the Orochi, but I'm hoping it will be bigger than the average-sized laptop mouse. I took a look at the G700, and I really like that it has the same nano receiver that all other laptop mice do, and it can also be plugged up to charge/play at the same time. Razer just announced another mouse that's wireless, but sadly it looks like it will be the same price as the Mamba.

Also, the Best Buy I have near me is so horrible with their mouse display now. They only really show the more 'mainstream' solutions.


----------



## Dunan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> So just have a new DA BE in my hands, feels good for now.
> Question, what drivers should I use?
> The latest(Synapses) is cloud based and I don't like that, especially as the driver wants to install MS Netframework.
> What other driver version could/should i use?
> Also is the BE driver different from the normal DA driver?
> I see a 3.05 driver for the normal DA and a 1.02 driver for the BE.
> Not sure what Firmware it uses now but is a firmware update recommended?
> Last but not least, I wonder if the foil that is under the mouse could be of any use for better performance on my cloth pad, does anyone leave the foil under it?


Go into the archive on the razer site and DL the last set of drivers available for the BE, not the 3.05 drivers, those are for the original DA. Avoid synapse like the plague. As far as the firmware, look over the changes described, they may make some significant changes to the mouse.

For example, firmware 1.39 for the original DA turns prediction off, 1.40 turns it on.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Thanks, found the BE drivers, seems that i have a brand new BE as the firmware is already up to 1.01.

Anyone here that has use the BE now for some time?
I wonder if the side and top coating is durable, it feels so soft that I fear it will wear down fast. At least I'm not glued to my DA like it was with the glossy version and also it doesn't seem to catch any "dirt" from my hands, I had to clean to glossy DA very often.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Thanks, found the BE drivers, seems that i have a brand new BE as the firmware is already up to 1.01.
> Anyone here that has use the BE now for some time?
> I wonder if the side and top coating is durable, it feels so soft that I fear it will wear down fast. At least I'm not glued to my DA like it was with the glossy version and also it doesn't seem to catch any "dirt" from my hands, I had to clean to glossy DA very often.


\

Mine hasn't worn out at all yet. From other users who _have_ had the coating start to peel (or have peeled it themselves), it is still a nice textured plastic finish under the rubber coating.


----------



## Skylit

Believe they're just coated over the standard poly carbonate as far as sides go. (should be glossy underneath). Top is ABS, but I'm not sure how they approached that.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

@Zero4549
How long to you use the BE now?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> @Zero4549
> How long to you use the BE now?


roughly 8 months


----------



## pez

I love my BE







. One of the few complaints I had about the original DeathAdder was the glossy sides. My mouse hand tends to sweat, so the Black Edition was very welcome.


----------



## hella

My 3G BE's going on about 10-11 months now and it's still holding up strong. The wear on the mouse is only on the top portion; the rough plastic below has worn through on high-use areas and the texture is absolutely lovely. I swear... this black edition shell just gets better with age


----------



## Dunan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> My 3G BE's going on about 10-11 months now and it's still holding up strong. The wear on the mouse is only on the top portion; the rough plastic below has worn through on high-use areas and the texture is absolutely lovely. I swear... this black edition shell just gets better with age


My original DA is going on 5 yrs - both of them


----------



## Stuuut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Hey just bought and installed the DeathAdder 3.5g
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few questions it also installed drivers for DA keyboard which i don't have but when i try to uninstall that the RazerSynapse program doesn't work anymore..... and my Logitech keyboard is acting a little weird keys being stuck and stuff or not registering keystrokes.
> Also i assume on the drivers page that HID-Mouse are my old drivers from my old mouse and i can uninstall them?
> So anything else i need to know before i start enjoying this mice? BTW i choose the DA 3.5g because i like the rubbery surface more then the smooth one and if i'm correct the Black Edition has a smooth surface right and other then that there are no differences?


Still having problems with my Logitech keyboard acting a little weird keys being stuck and stuff or not registering keystrokes all of this happened after installing my DA mouse... anybody seen this happen before?
BTW couldn't find anything like this in the thread


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuuut*
> 
> Still having problems with my Logitech keyboard acting a little weird keys being stuck and stuff or not registering keystrokes all of this happened after installing my DA mouse... anybody seen this happen before?
> BTW couldn't find anything like this in the thread


If I plug in my old deathadder which works fine with my logitech stuff unplugged except right click no working. It makes my g510 and g500 turn off and thats without drivers.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dunan*
> 
> My original DA is going on 5 yrs - both of them


Well if we're talking non-black-editions, my original is also 5 or 6 years old (whenever the heck it first came out) and has only a small area on the top where my ex gf decided it would be a good idea to pick at the coating with her finger nails









my v3 1800 dpi is roughly 304 years old. One of the side buttons broke ~8 months ago. Completely fixed it, but it prompted me to create my customized BE. The internals are still going strong inside the shell of the BE and the repaired shell (which is 100% perfect condition aside from the invisible internal repair I made to the side button) is going strong with the BE's original internals.


----------



## JJHCRazor

I recently got a BE, and I'm loving it so far. the only thing that bugs me si the Razer software that comes with the mouse. Will the mouse still function as normal without this?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJHCRazor*
> 
> I recently got a BE, and I'm loving it so far. the only thing that bugs me si the Razer software that comes with the mouse. Will the mouse still function as normal without this?


It works without the drivers.

If you're using the synapse 2.0 stuff, you can replace it with the older stand-along deathadder drivers which are far superior. If that still bugs you, just go driverless.


----------



## yoi

i got a question ...

is there a way i can make the LED constant and not blink ? and , where can i find a replacement mouse wheel , mine is brown and doesnt even have the brightness that had like 5 years ago lol , in fact , it doesnt even shines lol


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> i got a question ...
> is there a way i can make the LED constant and not blink ? and , where can i find a replacement mouse wheel , mine is brown and doesnt even have the brightness that had like 5 years ago lol , in fact , it doesnt even shines lol


Just remove and wash the wheel, It's simply dirty. The LED is on the circuit board under the wheel, not in the wheel itself.

As for making the rear led not blink... *shrug*.


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> It works without the drivers.
> If you're using the synapse 2.0 stuff, you can replace it with the older stand-along deathadder drivers which are far superior. If that still bugs you, just go driverless.


With the drivers only, can you still adjust dpi and set macros? Or is that only through synapse?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> With the drivers only, can you still adjust dpi and set macros? Or is that only through synapse?


Works through drivers. Synapse 2.0 has only been around for a few months and was designed to replace all the various Razer software with a unified cloud-based package... didn't really work to well tbh.


----------



## duox

My da black is going to arrive today most likely. How likely in a medium sensitivity situation am I to hit the maximum control speed at 800-900 dpi area?

Edit: Been playing on 500hz 900 dpi and so far so good. Compared to my g500 I can actually now aim in short incriments without it jumping all over the place lol.


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Works through drivers. Synapse 2.0 has only been around for a few months and was designed to replace all the various Razer software with a unified cloud-based package... didn't really work to well tbh.


Thanks. Seems like thats the consensus when it comes to razer software. Sorry to be ignorant and not do a search but how is there other synapse software, ie. 1.0 and any version of that series?


----------



## duox

I'm using the pre-synapse drivers that are in the archives and everythings working great so far, cept for this mouses ridiculous lift of distance, but the tracking is so much better than my g500 it is worth it i guess lol


----------



## RegalX

The old driver dont mess with the performance of the mouse right?


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RegalX*
> 
> The old driver dont mess with the performance of the mouse right?


Not as far as I can tell , im playing at 900 dpi and 500 hz and its tracking worlds better than my g500 ever did. I have to use software though cause i need the side button profiles


----------



## Zero4549

Old drivers give superior performance compared to synapse 2.0. Theres no real down side to having them installed, other than simply having them installed, and they give expanded functionality and options compared to going driverless.

As for lift-off issues - Double up on mouse feet and stick some scotch tape on the sensor. Problem solved.


----------



## RegalX

thx


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Old drivers give superior performance compared to synapse 2.0. Theres no real down side to having them installed, other than simply having them installed, and they give expanded functionality and options compared to going driverless.
> 
> As for lift-off issues - Double up on mouse feet and stick some scotch tape on the sensor. Problem solved.


I just added some tape to my worn out feet, not because of lift-off problems, but because the feet were so worn down, the mouse was rubbing against my mouse pad.

I also retired my DeathAdder 3.5G from gaming and is now my office mouse for CAD work. My work has a really horrible network security system that blocks everything so Synapse doesn't work because I can't even log-in.

I was forced to use the good old tried and trusted 3.05 driver.


----------



## Oskason

I've not read the entire thread since it is 58 pages long, so don't flame me if this question has already been answered, please.







Anyway, I was wondering if the lift off is actually a problem with the 3.5G version. Or is the difference between the that and the 3G version so minuscule that only hardcore FPS's would notice? I really like the BE edition because of the rubberized sides but if the lift of is a bit of a problem I may just have to get the 3.5g normal DA instead. Cheers.


----------



## Oskason

I also heard that putting scotch tape over the optical sensor fixed the lift off problem. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## SirCumference

http://www.overclock.net/t/1211083/tape-trick-for-lower-liftoff-distance-lod-with-optical-mice

Use this method. I used black electrical tape for my Deathadder and Spawn and it works great.


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oskason*
> 
> I've not read the entire thread since it is 58 pages long, so don't flame me if this question has already been answered, please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if the lift off is actually a problem with the 3.5G version. Or is the difference between the that and the 3G version so minuscule that only hardcore FPS's would notice? I really like the BE edition because of the rubberized sides but if the lift of is a bit of a problem I may just have to get the 3.5g normal DA instead. Cheers.


I notice lift of distance only when im thinking about it. I play at mediumish sensitivity 900 dpi and the only time I ever really pick my mouse up is to center it on my pad which is always after the fight is over so it has not been a concern really.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oskason*
> 
> I've not read the entire thread since it is 58 pages long, so don't flame me if this question has already been answered, please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if the lift off is actually a problem with the 3.5G version. Or is the difference between the that and the 3G version so minuscule that only hardcore FPS's would notice? I really like the BE edition because of the rubberized sides but if the lift of is a bit of a problem I may just have to get the 3.5g normal DA instead. Cheers.


For me it never was a problem, but i noticed the lod at first. Then I slapped some hyperglides on top of the stock feet and it reduced enough to not be noticeable. Also the mouse glides much smoother on my pad. If you don't want to spend a little on the feet just tape fix it. Get the black edition, you won't regret it.


----------



## Oskason

Thanks for the replys. I ordered the black edition, it should be here tomorrow. Can't wait


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oskason*
> 
> Thanks for the replys. I ordered the black edition, it should be here tomorrow. Can't wait


Enjoy


----------



## Secretninja

Just got my black edition to replace my broken g400. Th only way I can describe the way it feels in my hand is weird. It doesn't feel bad, and the shape is comfortable, but the coating feels very odd to me.


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Secretninja*
> 
> Just got my black edition to replace my broken g400. Th only way I can describe the way it feels in my hand is weird. It doesn't feel bad, and the shape is comfortable, but the coating feels very odd to me.


Haha that how I felt about my original DA 3g. The black feels like a glove to me , though I'm still expecting this thing to fall apart in 3 months like most my razer products lol.


----------



## nhltns

Just got a DA:BE, lovin it and noticing the mouse drags been reading to double up on skates. One thing I got the puretrak HD Glide skates that are 1.2mm thick compared to Hyperglides that are 0.8mm should i still double up? Anyone else got the same skates?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nhltns*
> 
> Just got a DA:BE, lovin it and noticing the mouse drags been reading to double up on skates. One thing I got the puretrak HD Glide skates that are 1.2mm thick compared to Hyperglides that are 0.8mm should i still double up? Anyone else got the same skates?


I'd give it a shot. Even on my modded 1800dpi BE (which has a lower LOD than the standard BE), I can stick hypers on top of the default skates and _still_ apply the "tape trick" with no issues.

That extra 0.4mm shouldn't give you any issues.


----------



## Oskason

Loving the DA:BE so far. One thing I will say though, if you have dry hands then then you may want to look at the normal edition as the BE can be slightly hard to grip onto the sides.


----------



## 2shellbonus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oskason*
> 
> Loving the DA:BE so far. One thing I will say though, if you have dry hands then then you may want to look at the normal edition as the BE can be slightly hard to grip onto the sides.


Use the mouse for a couple of weeks. The coating will loose the shine, pick up some dead skin and will be very comfortable and grippy...even with dry hands.


----------



## hella

The mousefeel will only get better with age. The top shell rubber will thin, and you will get a lovely, rough plastic at high-use points of contact.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2shellbonus*
> 
> Use the mouse for a couple of weeks. The coating will loose the shine, pick up some dead skin and will be very comfortable and grippy...even with dry hands.


After roughly 8 months, that simply has not happened. Perhaps it is because I am more gentle than the average gamer, or perhaps because I clean it twice a week. Guess it wouldn't hurt to find out though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> The mousefeel will only get better with age. The top shell rubber will thin, and you will get a lovely, rough plastic at high-use points of contact.


That's what I've been hearing. Sounds like a good middle ground for people who like the added texture of the BE but don't like the "slipperyness" when held by _dry_ hands.

Of course I'm sure there are people who won't like the lack of rubber. For those, this is your long-term solution: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1C1DVCQ_enUS418US418&sa=X&ei=YqkoUK68J-S96QGw_YCYAg&ved=0CEEQBSgA&q=plasti+dip+spray&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=6fc2be3d81197ff1&biw=1280&bih=659&tch=1&ech=1&psi=YqkoUK68J-S96QGw_YCYAg.1344841861382.3&cid=850612820103305021


----------



## thorsteNN

http://www.razerzone.com/clg-deathadder


----------



## karod

First thought:


----------



## Dunan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorsteNN*
> 
> http://www.razerzone.com/clg-deathadder


Now they are just getting ridiculous.

Rehashing the old DA 3.5 with a new shell. Innovation hard at work, people.


----------



## Skylit

You mean same shell, different paint? ^^

I expect a New DA by next year.


----------



## thorsteNN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dunan*
> 
> Now they are just getting ridiculous.
> Rehashing the old DA 3.5 with a new shell. Innovation hard at work, people.


nope, it was a project announced in autumn last year, where the razer community could vote for a clan, which will get their own mouse/mousepad design. this is the result.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> You mean same shell, different paint? ^^
> I expect a New DA by next year.


yep, would not surprise me if they use the "new" sensor system of the current line Taipan/Orch***productname


----------



## Dunan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> You mean same shell, different paint? ^^
> I expect a New DA by next year.


I meant new paint









If they put a 3090 sensor in it and keep it the way it is, it'll probably be the best selling mouse ever.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dunan*
> 
> I meant new paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they put a 3090 sensor in it and keep it the way it is, it'll probably be the best selling mouse ever.


Why does it need a A3090 branded IC?

I'm not saying that Razer won't have a newer custom variant of labeled S3098 or S3998, but the original A3090 ROM was basically a slightly modified version of Razers custom S3888. I already consider Razers S3888 firmware to be well implemented in terms of tracking fidelity and IPS ^^

PS: I disagree on keeping it the way it is. I would like to see a nicer shell ID for next generation. I don't much care for the current one


----------



## Mcspankles

Hello! I have encountered a recent problem with my Deathadder 1800 dpi. I really like the mouse, it's a little old though. All the lights turn on, but the scroll wheel light. I have looked inside of it and the LED beside the mouse wheel looks just fine. I looked inside the mousewheel itself and I don't know how the scroll wheel light itself lights up. Does anyone know how I can fix this? Any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## stefr

I have a Black Widow ultimate keyboard and want to get a Razer mouse with blue lighting to go along with it.

What's the best one to get? Is the death adder a really good option?


----------



## ChromeBeauty

One thing that annoys me a bit is that the scroll wheel on my new BE sometimes squeaks a bit, I change my grip with the BE and it may be that I scroll the wheel a bit from the side, so maybe that is the problem.
Or it could use some oil, would it be OK to try some oil on it?


----------



## Phillychuck

After rebooting my system and getting annoyed with Synapse slow startup, you know, where your mouse runs hyper speed and takes close to 10 seconds to jerk around to go on the net and download the settings.

All I ask is, why not use the previous settings as the default driver setting and then go check, if its the same then why screw with it.

And I wanted to ask this, so I go to RAZER website to email the suggestion and they play hide and seek with the tech support email. I spent a couple minutes and didn't find it.

Maybe its because I have an boot SSD and auto-login, system comes up real fast, I can load the browser and up to 20 seconds it'll still be derping around with the mouse.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Use older drivers but better none synapses drivers.


----------



## Phillychuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Use older drivers but better none synapses drivers.


I could, but I'm one of those people who like to stay current with drivers and just wanted to offer a suggestion to Razer.

I may roll back.


----------



## maikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phillychuck*
> 
> After rebooting my system and getting annoyed with Synapse slow startup, you know, where your mouse runs hyper speed and takes close to 10 seconds to jerk around to go on the net and download the settings.
> All I ask is, why not use the previous settings as the default driver setting and then go check, if its the same then why screw with it.
> And I wanted to ask this, so I go to RAZER website to email the suggestion and they play hide and seek with the tech support email. I spent a couple minutes and didn't find it.
> Maybe its because I have an boot SSD and auto-login, system comes up real fast, I can load the browser and up to 20 seconds it'll still be derping around with the mouse.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1294522/vote-for-change-on-synapse-razer-driver

i had the exact complaint aswell hope you can vote for it. the more votes the merries so we can send this to the dev teams


----------



## maikon

just wondering will the tracking have any deficiency on cloth mouse pad if i order black edition since its laser sensor compare to regular deathadder 3.5?


----------



## karod

The Black editon has the same 3.5G optical sensor as the "normal DA 3500"


----------



## maikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> The Black editon has the same 3.5G optical sensor as the "normal DA 3500"


aa i guess i was misinformed. nvm this then


----------



## Rickles

So I couldn't stand the DA 3.5g's glossy sides and I found a decent fix. I used sports tape along the sides and rather than that weird slick feeling I actually have a nice textured grip.

Picture is the DA next to my Roccat Kone+ which I still switch back and forth to.


----------



## maikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> So I couldn't stand the DA 3.5g's glossy sides and I found a decent fix. I used sports tape along the sides and rather than that weird slick feeling I actually have a nice textured grip.
> Picture is the DA next to my Roccat Kone+ which I still switch back and forth to.


ghetto style


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Does anyone know the parts number for the Omron switches used in the Deathadder?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Does anyone know the parts number for the Omron switches used in the Deathadder?


omron d2fc-f-7n


----------



## jordanecmusic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> So I couldn't stand the DA 3.5g's glossy sides and I found a decent fix. I used sports tape along the sides and rather than that weird slick feeling I actually have a nice textured grip.
> Picture is the DA next to my Roccat Kone+ which I still switch back and forth to.


you know, because the glossy sides are not grippy?


----------



## maikon

can anyone tell me on the blackedition on the sides is it glossy that is coated with rubber?

because i really dislike my current deathadder since i have really oily fingers heh so i have to whipe my sides like once every two hours :/


----------



## SirCumference

BE sides are coated in rubber. Nice and grippy IMO.


----------



## maikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirCumference*
> 
> BE sides are coated in rubber. Nice and grippy IMO.


i know that but what is below the surface of the coated rubber? thats what im wondering becasue if its glossy below the coated rubber then i wont order black edition and refund my original deathadder


----------



## SirCumference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maikon*
> 
> i know that but what is below the surface of the coated rubber? thats what im wondering becasue if its glossy below the coated rubber then i wont order black edition and refund my original deathadder


I'm not sure. Mine has yet to wear out, so I can't tell you what's underneath.


----------



## Zero4549

It's textured plastic, not glossy.


----------



## Skylit

It's glossy. Same PC material just coated~


----------



## maikon

now im rather confused which of you are saying is true here?? skylit do you actually own the black edition?


----------



## maikon

btw this concerns me http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1712509


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maikon*
> 
> now im rather confused which of you are saying is true here?? skylit do you actually own the black edition?


I don't know where he got his information, but they use the same poly-carbonate on both mice. Wouldn't be wise on Razers part to significantly change materials.

Here's a quick google search of that very question (not mine)

http://www.cybergamer.com.au/forums/thread/347868/page-3/POLL-Razer-Deathadder-v2-vs-Steelseries-Sensei/










And yes, I own a black edition along with many mice ;o


----------



## thorsteNN

quick question:

what's the newest "NON-SYNAPSE" driver version for deathadder 3.5G ?
is it v 3.05?

thank you very much ! =)


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorsteNN*
> 
> quick question:
> what's the newest "NON-SYNAPSE" driver version for deathadder 3.5G ?
> is it v 3.05?
> thank you very much ! =)


its not important
as long as there is Win7 ok, but when comes Win8 Synapse2.0 will support all products, DA included, i think u cant escape by Synapse service.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*


Easy to consume and ruin ?









.


----------



## duszolap

Recently I have installed newest razer software - Synapse. In my short experience it is total failure

Currenlty EVERY time i boot to Windows Synapse update windows show - unfortunately it just hangs in memory with "not responding state" when I try to close it - what's interesting still can click on my profile in right upper corner and minimize (to taskbar) it but cannot close it

If that's how Synapse is designed to work - I rather uninstall drivers at all - after years of using razer products without problems I can't understand decision to make such failed software.

Maybe somebody know fix for this issue - my OS WIndows 7 64-bit


----------



## Dunan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duszolap*
> 
> Recently I have installed newest razer software - Synapse. In my short experience it is total failure
> Currenlty EVERY time i boot to Windows Synapse update windows show - unfortunately it just hangs in memory with "not responding state" when I try to close it - what's interesting still can click on my profile in right upper corner and minimize (to taskbar) it but cannot close it
> If that's how Synapse is designed to work - I rather uninstall drivers at all - after years of using razer products without problems I can't understand decision to make such failed software.
> Maybe somebody know fix for this issue - my OS WIndows 7 64-bit


Uninstall synapse and go into the driver archive and DL the last known set of driver software.


----------



## BradleyKZN

Hey guys, does anyone know which version this DA is?

http://www.razerzone.com.br/products/gaming_mice/razer_deathadder_guildwars/

I won it yesterday









Does anyone know the weight as well by any chance?


----------



## thorsteNN

Hello mates,

I read that the Deathadder performs best at 1800 dpi.
But I prefer using 400/450 dpi on my mice.
Are there any disadvantages using 450 dpi on the Razer Deathadder 3.5G?
Would it make sense to use 1800 dpi and slow it down with the Slider in the Deathadder driver?
Is there a way to calculate which number to use of the Sensitivity Slider?
How does this Slider work ? (technically)

Thank you very much!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorsteNN*
> 
> Hello mates,
> 
> I read that the Deathadder performs best at 1800 dpi.
> But I prefer using 400/450 dpi on my mice.
> Are there any disadvantages using 450 dpi on the Razer Deathadder 3.5G?
> Would it make sense to use 1800 dpi and slow it down with the Slider in the Deathadder driver?
> Is there a way to calculate which number to use of the Sensitivity Slider?
> How does this Slider work ? (technically)
> 
> Thank you very much!


It's mostly personal preference, but I found 1800 DPI @ 500 MHz polling and Windows Sensitivity of 7 was the sweet spot. With Acceleration off of course.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thorsteNN*
> 
> Are there any disadvantages using 450 dpi on the Razer Deathadder 3.5G? *Not really.*
> Would it make sense to use 1800 dpi and slow it down with the Slider in the Deathadder driver? *2.5 for 450 5.0 for 900. If you want a fully constructed list, it's on of these pages. PS: use "on the fly sensitivity" to select those values. The image they constructed isn't accurate.*
> Is there a way to calculate which number to use of the Sensitivity Slider? *Yes. Whole values = 10% recalculation. 1 = 10% of 1800. 1.5 = 15% of 1800 2 = 20% of 1800.. etc...*
> How does this Slider work ? (technically) *Above.*
> Thank you very much!


Bold.


----------



## thorsteNN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Bold.


big thanks +1


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyKZN*
> 
> Hey guys, does anyone know which version this DA is?
> http://www.razerzone.com.br/products/gaming_mice/razer_deathadder_guildwars/
> I won it yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the weight as well by any chance?


its a DA 3g rev.3 and weights ~112g sitting on scale.


----------



## karod

I was in a consumer electronics store (MediaMarkt) yesterday and noticed that the cable of the BlackEdition is a bit thinner, than on the normal edition.

Is that negative?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> I was in a consumer electronics store (MediaMarkt) yesterday and noticed that the cable of the BlackEdition is a bit thinner, than on the normal edition.
> 
> Is that negative?


For regular use, not one bit. For storage and transportation, or if your mouse has many bends to make it to your I/O panel, it might get damaged a little easier.


----------



## BradleyKZN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> its a DA 3g rev.3 and weights ~112g sitting on scale.


Excellent! Thanks very much


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> its a DA 3g rev.3 and weights ~112g sitting on scale.


Looks like an original DA (What hella has listed as V2).










Maybe I can pick up a bit more from this image that most ;o


----------



## axipher

Even though I've changed my gaming mouse, I still haven't forgotten about my DA. I decided to bring it to work for AutoCAD use, what an upgrade form the regular Compaq mouse:


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Looks like an original DA (What hella has listed as V2).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I can pick up a bit more from this image that most ;o


you may be right, considering it was released end of 2007 already.
on the other hand its product code is: "Razer RZ01-00150400-R3M1".


----------



## indstri

Speaking of older Razer DAs, does anyone know where I can pick up a DA Mac Edition with the lunar white LEDs? I'd love to use one in lieu of my BE. I know it may be a long shot, especially since I'm not keen on purchasing used as most aren't in excellent condition.


----------



## Touche

How to assign standard middle click to scroll wheel button? I don't want universal scroll.


----------



## Dunan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touche*
> 
> How to assign standard middle click to scroll wheel button? I don't want universal scroll.


In the DA driver software.


----------



## Touche

There is no option to assign mouse3 or middle click in the driver. I'm using pre-synapse one.


----------



## karod

Indeed there is no Windows Button 3 in the drop-down list.
Even under advanced functions it can't be found.


----------



## barkinos98

thanks for the write up, i was thinking of going for a black edition but couldn't be sure. also was it too hard to change the scroll wheel?


----------



## hella

It wasn't hard at all. Just make sure you use a Deathadder V3 (or Rev. 3) since the Rev. 2 won't fit in the same shell.


----------



## nlmiller0015

so in order for 1000hz to be good you have to keep hitting it o.o?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> so in order for 1000hz to be good you have to keep hitting it o.o?


Hua?


----------



## nlmiller0015

I was referring to skylit post skylit said something about 1000hz being inconsitant


----------



## end0rphine

http://watchmonoblog.blog71.fc2.com/blog-entry-2371.html

Looks like the 1800 DPI version is making a return to south korea.... using synapse 2.0


----------



## karod

But with no side buttons, non illuminated scroll wheel and green logo illumination. And black teflon feet instead of white/grayish


----------



## Skylit

Delete.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *end0rphine*
> 
> http://watchmonoblog.blog71.fc2.com/blog-entry-2371.html
> Looks like the 1800 DPI version is making a return to south korea.... using synapse 2.0


Looks like they had last minute pricing deal... but I find it odd that they're using a freescale 9S08. This will generally mean a brand new firmware different from the original 3G. As for tracking, I can't really say how well this will perform. PCB is redesigned~

Weight is likely a few grams less. 112 > 107~ or so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> I was referring to skylit post skylit said something about 1000hz being inconsitant


Slower movement will "poll" at lower rates.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> so in order for 1000hz to be good you have to keep hitting it o.o?


First off, a lot of USB ports barely hit 600 MHz polling rate as it is. If you are lucky enough to actually have a good USB port that can reach the 1000 Hz polling rate, then it's really nice.

Anyone else feel free to correct me, but here is my basic explanation of it.

*DPI:*


the sensor sensitivity itself
setting too high can cause you to overshoot constantly if you aren't use to moving the mouse a little
requires you to have good control over your mouse

*Polling Rate:*


how fast the computer gets updated info from the mouse
setting this too high can cause your cursor to jitter if your hand isn't perfectly steady
often people set a high polling rate, see the jitter, and compensate by resting all there hands weight on the mouse, this is also a bad idea

*Windows Sensitivity:*


the actual cursor speed in relation to the mouse's info being sent back
simplest way to adjust sensitivity, not the best though
6-7 on the slider tends to be the preferred setting then use your mouse's DPI setting to fine tune the sensitivity

*Pointer Acceleration:*


Windows attempt to increase accuracy
the slower your moving the mouse, the less the cursor moves in relation to the sensor data
crude example: moving your mouse at half speed, you would need to cover twice as much mousepad to move the cursor the same distance


----------



## Secretninja

the rubber costing on the sides of my be is starting to come off after less than a month. I don't have long fingernails or anything. pretty aggravating.


----------



## hella

That's unfortunate. I've had mine 11 months and haven't had any peeling or scratching whatsoever, and I'm far from gentle on my mice.

Try contacting razer customer support. You might be able to RMA the mouse.


----------



## jordanecmusic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> That's unfortunate. I've had mine 11 months and haven't had any peeling or scratching whatsoever, and I'm far from gentle on my mice.
> Try contacting razer customer support. You might be able to RMA the mouse.


Ive had my deathadder for about a year. 0 issues with anything here. stop ordering from ebay guys...


----------



## Confessed

So my DeathAdder 3.5G is having the known clicking issues. Sometimes the double clicking when I only press once, but most of the time the clicks just doing nothing. I've been searching and can't find a fix for this. Any ideas?


----------



## amstech

I take good care of mine and its been a great mouse for a several years now, not a single issue.
Razer products need to be cared for a little more.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Confessed*
> 
> So my DeathAdder 3.5G is having the known clicking issues. Sometimes the double clicking when I only press once, but most of the time the clicks just doing nothing. I've been searching and can't find a fix for this. Any ideas?


Out of warranty? If so, open it up, tighten the screws (use some weak adhesive if needed), clean off the switches and surfaces in contact with the switches. See if that helps and report back, we'll see where to go from there if needed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amstech*
> 
> I take good care of mine and its been a great mouse for a several years now, not a single issue.
> Razer products need to be cared for a little more.


Biggest flaw with the DA itself construction wise is the rear side button. Even that isn't a problem with proper care.

As you imply, people are simply too violent with their gear.


----------



## nlmiller0015

I have a question If I use on the fly on my deathader and lower the 1800 dpi setting by half would it still keep iTS max IPS


----------



## opi

I just got a DA 3.5 a few days ago. Can someone please tell me what DPI and polling rate this mouse performs best at? I've heard 450 and 1800 @ 1000hz.

I am using the old 3.05 driver btw.

Thanks!


----------



## ghost2501

I cane a few 1800's and a new 3500. I installed synapse adn it seems to have updated the firmware on my 1800's to what i dont know adn it wont let me install the old drivers and use it anymore. I talked to support they said i cant rollback teh firmware or it may brick the mouse so i am forced to use synapse which dosent work half the time it says connect a device etc.

Basically has anyone ever brought back a deathadder to a PRE-SYNAPSE 2.0 state? I am really at a loss and really upset here you should have heard the guy he was basically liek you are screwed we are not changing synapse you cant have a reg driver or roll back your firmwar eto use the odldrivers and he was almost laughing. This makes me sick really. I cant pick the mouse up anymore push the button on the bottom and have it switch profies etc. That is the whole reason i bought the mice and now they broke that option on purpose....

any fixes or people mad about this like I am?


----------



## BradleyKZN

Got my guildwars edition yesterday, man, can Razer make a mean mouse! Loving it!

It took a little getting used to, as my hand felt comfortable palming it, but after a while i got a good clawpaw grip and its excellent!

Burst firing and controlling recoil is dead easy with it, actually thought i had a suppressor on an AEK on BF3 before i was told I didnt, the recoil was just that much easier


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opi*
> 
> I just got a DA 3.5 a few days ago. Can someone please tell me what DPI and polling rate this mouse performs best at? I've heard 450 and 1800 @ 1000hz.
> 
> I am using the old 3.05 driver btw.
> 
> Thanks!


1800 MHz @ 1000 MHz polling on a true 1000 MHz port was the ticket for me. That got me by for gaming as well as AutoCAD.


----------



## Secretninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordanecmusic*
> 
> Ive had my deathadder for about a year. 0 issues with anything here. stop ordering from ebay guys...


Pretty sure Amazon.com is a reputable site that sells new merchandise, but hey, fanbois gonna fanboi.


----------



## opi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> 1800 MHz @ 1000 MHz polling on a true 1000 MHz port was the ticket for me. That got me by for gaming as well as AutoCAD.


Is that with the older 1800 ones or with the newer 3.5?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghost2501*
> 
> I cane a few 1800's and a new 3500. I installed synapse adn it seems to have updated the firmware on my 1800's to what i dont know adn it wont let me install the old drivers and use it anymore. I talked to support they said i cant rollback teh firmware or it may brick the mouse so i am forced to use synapse which dosent work half the time it says connect a device etc.
> Basically has anyone ever brought back a deathadder to a PRE-SYNAPSE 2.0 state? I am really at a loss and really upset here you should have heard the guy he was basically liek you are screwed we are not changing synapse you cant have a reg driver or roll back your firmwar eto use the odldrivers and he was almost laughing. This makes me sick really. I cant pick the mouse up anymore push the button on the bottom and have it switch profies etc. That is the whole reason i bought the mice and now they broke that option on purpose....
> any fixes or people mad about this like I am?


I don't know if you've tried the following but this is what I would do in your situation.
-Uninstall everything Razer and reboot
-Download Auslogics registry cleaner or something similar and run and remove entries and reboot
-Open regedit and search for anything razer under current user and local machine. If it's there it will be under software tree in both. Delete if you find anything and reboot
-Download fresh copy of old driver and try to reinstall

It could work if not maybe someone else here has some better info.

BTW I doubt that synapse updates your firmware without noticing you. Flashing firmware alwasy carries a risk of bricking the device and razer doesn't want thousands of angry customers yelling "y u break my mouse??". And I highly doubt the firmware prevents you from using older drivers. I have a 3.5 with the newer firmware and am using the old driver instead of the cloud synapse bs.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> 1800 MHz @ 1000 MHz polling on a true 1000 MHz port was the ticket for me. That got me by for gaming as well as AutoCAD.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that with the older 1800 ones or with the newer 3.5?
Click to expand...

The 3.5 G, I found 3500 DPI was way too sensitive when I had my sound system on. The desk was vibrating just enough that the mouse picked it up, and it was a little too jittery for me.


----------



## meih

Has anyone else had a problem with their DA's (Black Edition) scroll wheel rubbing against the mold? This thing isn't even a month old and it's starting to break.


----------



## Phillychuck

Anyone having an issue with Synapse, it keeps showing the control panel on a reboot. It has had a couple updates this past week.


----------



## superbarnie

I have a Razer Deathadder 3.5 that when i plug it in it says device not recognized. Is there anything I can do?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superbarnie*
> 
> I have a Razer Deathadder 3.5 that when i plug it in it says device not recognized. Is there anything I can do?


Try another USB port, preferably on the rear I/O panel.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meih*
> 
> Has anyone else had a problem with their DA's (Black Edition) scroll wheel rubbing against the mold? This thing isn't even a month old and it's starting to break.


My ORIGINAL Deathadder (What the op refers to as a 3g v2) had this issue due to the top layer (the part that acts as the physical right and left buttons) being improperly seated. Reseating it completely fixed the issue.

I haven't seen this issue in any of the newer versions, but if it's as new as you say it is, just send it in for replacement. Otherwise, try reseating the top layer.


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phillychuck*
> 
> Anyone having an issue with Synapse, it keeps showing the control panel on a reboot. It has had a couple updates this past week.


im not having any issues with synapse, but i have had a few "updates" in the last week or so. But no release notes anywhere on the update? That, i do not like. And the last "update" i did this morning, after it did its thing and restarted the computer, it seemed to have bricked my mouse until I un-pluged it from the USB port and back in. For a few seconds I was scared there.....Other than that, Im loving this thing.


----------



## Touche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Indeed there is no Windows Button 3 in the drop-down list.
> Even under advanced functions it can't be found.


Any solution for the missing middle click?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Touche*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Indeed there is no Windows Button 3 in the drop-down list.
> Even under advanced functions it can't be found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any solution for the missing middle click?
Click to expand...

Restore default settings. I remember that bug.


----------



## royalkilla408

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phillychuck*
> 
> Anyone having an issue with Synapse, it keeps showing the control panel on a reboot. It has had a couple updates this past week.


I'm having the same problem. Everytime I start up my computer the dumb program starts up again. I hate it. Really annoying. I email Razer to let them know to fix it.


----------



## ghost2501

Quote:


> I don't know if you've tried the following but this is what I would do in your situation.
> -Uninstall everything Razer and reboot
> -Download Auslogics registry cleaner or something similar and run and remove entries and reboot
> -Open regedit and search for anything razer under current user and local machine. If it's there it will be under software tree in both. Delete if you find anything and reboot
> -Download fresh copy of old driver and try to reinstall
> 
> It could work if not maybe someone else here has some better info.
> 
> BTW I doubt that synapse updates your firmware without noticing you. Flashing firmware alwasy carries a risk of bricking the device and razer doesn't want thousands of angry customers yelling "y u break my mouse??". And I highly doubt the firmware prevents you from using older drivers. I have a 3.5 with the newer firmware and am using the old driver instead of the cloud synapse bs.


You miss the point a little, synapse is designed to take away the 5 onboard profiles... it even removed that from the deathadder sales page. it used to say onboard profiles switching 5 profiles so you can go to lan tournaments... etc.

1. if you read the synapse website it says automatically updates firmware and drivers right on the synapse faq and info page. If you look at the complaints yeah it updates and then demands you restart in the middle of a game. I watched it do the firmware before my eyes when i plugged in my 1800 mouse and it was unresponsive while it said it, I know it does it.

2. I confirmed multiple times with tech support you cant revert to old drivers or firmware i tried drivers but they said it would brick the firmware I may try on one that has a burnt sensor but it still has firmware and is recognized.

Here is my point. If you read the synapse FAQ they kind of say we did away with the on board memory profiles and force you to use synapse, and yeah if you don't have internet you are screwed.

I bought this mouse because as advertised it has on board memory profiles 5 of them and i can use them on any pc without a driver. THIS IS NOW FALSE

So plug your deathadder into moms pc without any drivers or synapse and try and switch profiles. You cant do this anymore tech support admitted it finally and they say they will not let me switch back.
I used my mouse profiles a lot on lots of pcs many of which i can not use the internet let alone synapse.

What about LAN tournaments where you can t use software etc. now you cant change your settings.

I am jsut simply mad at synapse it ruined my deathadders.


----------



## opi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghost2501*
> 
> You miss the point a little, synapse is designed to take away the 5 onboard profiles... it even removed that from the deathadder sales page. it used to say onboard profiles switching 5 profiles so you can go to lan tournaments... etc.
> 1. if you read the synapse website it says automatically updates firmware and drivers right on the synapse faq and info page. If you look at the complaints yeah it updates and then demands you restart in the middle of a game. I watched it do the firmware before my eyes when i plugged in my 1800 mouse and it was unresponsive while it said it, I know it does it.
> 2. I confirmed multiple times with tech support you cant revert to old drivers or firmware i tried drivers but they said it would brick the firmware I may try on one that has a burnt sensor but it still has firmware and is recognized.
> Here is my point. If you read the synapse FAQ they kind of say we did away with the on board memory profiles and force you to use synapse, and yeah if you don't have internet you are screwed.
> I bought this mouse because as advertised it has on board memory profiles 5 of them and i can use them on any pc without a driver. THIS IS NOW FALSE
> So plug your deathadder into moms pc without any drivers or synapse and try and switch profiles. You cant do this anymore tech support admitted it finally and they say they will not let me switch back.
> I used my mouse profiles a lot on lots of pcs many of which i can not use the internet let alone synapse.
> What about LAN tournaments where you can t use software etc. now you cant change your settings.
> I am jsut simply mad at synapse it ruined my deathadders.


oh crap dude dam... They should really tell you that it will update your firmware automatically in giant red lettering. What if your updating during a t-storm and power goes out? I am using the old 3.05 driver with the new firmware and it works well with the 3500 DA. Didn't brick my mouse or anything but yea idk if I would try it again knowing that.


----------



## ghost2501

yeah if you have the 3.05 driver just be sure before you install synapse and update the firmware you cant go back.


----------



## Phillychuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royalkilla408*
> 
> I'm having the same problem. Everytime I start up my computer the dumb program starts up again. I hate it. Really annoying. I email Razer to let them know to fix it.


I sent a bug report in a couple days ago and the reply said they were aware of the multiple update thing, but totally ignored the part about the control panel appearing each reboot.

You wouldn't happen to have a Wacom tablet would you? I don't think the 2 products drivers like each other much.


----------



## karod

That might be, just look into their forums http://forum.wacom.eu/viewforum.php?f=4&sid=a21b808e13a292af858e20a0792d2070
There are a lot of threads with the tablet not working, or messing around with mouse input. I did also find a post somewhere, where someone had problems with the razer driver.

Edit: here it is http://forum.wacom.eu/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10238&p=41597&hilit=razer#p41597


----------



## kdon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Out of warranty? If so, open it up, tighten the screws (use some weak adhesive if needed), clean off the switches and surfaces in contact with the switches. See if that helps and report back, we'll see where to go from there if needed.
> Biggest flaw with the DA itself construction wise is the rear side button. Even that isn't a problem with proper care.
> As you imply, people are simply too violent with their gear.


I'm having the same problem (random double clicks) on my OOW 3.5g deathadder. Flashed firmware, reinstalled drivers... Going to take it apart and clean the switches/tighten screws and report back!

Edit: Cleaned switches, tightened screws, to no avail :/ any other solutions? Thanks!


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdon*
> 
> I'm having the same problem (random double clicks) on my OOW 3.5g deathadder. Flashed firmware, reinstalled drivers... Going to take it apart and clean the switches/tighten screws and report back!
> Edit: Cleaned switches, tightened screws, to no avail :/ any other solutions? Thanks!


With the top of the shell removed, and the bottom PCB still attached to the bottom of the shell, press on the switches themselves with similar force to what you would do if clicking on the mouse during your gaming sessions / whenever the double click occurs.

If you're not comfortable using that much force, it probably means you click way too hard and should try to tone that down in normal use as well.

Now observe the PCB while "clicking" the switches - does it flex more than 1/3 of a mm or so? If so, you need to find something to brace the PCB with. Something firm but that wont damage the pcb and wont move around. Obviously something non conductive.


----------



## superbarnie

My middle mouse button wiggles around left and right. It gets annoying if I am moving left and right quickly because the middlemouse button will make noise and wiggle about. Is this normal? Mines is the Deathadder 3.5G


----------



## duox

If the death adder was to be discontinued or they stopped offering archived non synapse driversi I would have to go back to Logitech. Luckily I backed up the old drivers on several jump drives so I should be good until they discontinue the mouse, which seems unlikely, I only fear another refresh haha.


----------



## grandpatzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hella*
> 
> Deathadder *3.5G*
> 
> Sensor: S3888
> The Deathadder 3.5G includes ANY version with the S3888 sensor, most notably the standard Deathadder 3.5G and the Deathadder Black Edition
> 3500 DPI
> 
> Internal shell identical to the 3G V3
> Yep, that's right, the 3G V3 performs more similarly to the 3.5G than the 3G V2. Some may be confused to how this can be.


So is the PCB on 3g revision 3 exactly identical to 3.5g?

I have a Razer DA 3.5g and a Kinzu V2 pro, I have seen people dremel the DA 3g and installing it inside a Kinzu.

Now I want to dremel the PCB on a DA 3.5g if possible and make a Kinzuadder V2 Pro 3.5g


----------



## RegalX

how does the da 3.5 track at 450 or 900 dpi. i know 1800 and 3500 dpi is the native but i need something lower . Whats the IPS o.o ?


----------



## popups

Anyone know where I cam get a scroll wheel for a Diamondback Plasma? Is it the same one used it the DeathAdder? The stem on mine broke.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grandpatzer*
> 
> So is the PCB on 3g revision 3 exactly identical to 3.5g?
> I have a Razer DA 3.5g and a Kinzu V2 pro, I have seen people dremel the DA 3g and installing it inside a Kinzu.
> Now I want to dremel the PCB on a DA 3.5g if possible and make a Kinzuadder V2 Pro 3.5g


In terms of shape, yes, identical.


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RegalX*
> 
> how does the da 3.5 track at 450 or 900 dpi. i know 1800 and 3500 dpi is the native but i need something lower . Whats the IPS o.o ?


I use mine at 900 dpi and have had no acceleration and I've yet to hit malfunction speed. I could not imagine gaming or using windows at higher than 1000 dpi it is just terrible lol.


----------



## Phillychuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox*
> 
> I use mine at 900 dpi and have had no acceleration and I've yet to hit malfunction speed. I could not imagine gaming or using windows at higher than 1000 dpi it is just terrible lol.


I used to run it around 800-1200 with windows sensitivity in the middle, now I'm trying 3500dpi and just lowering sensitivity in games/windows to adjust for the hyper drive. My thinking is the device is getting more data for accuracy, and just chill it down with sensitivity. Could be mental but things do seem smoother.

No acceleration, I can't stand that anymore. Remembering back when they added that and it being "useful", in the 90's I guess.


----------



## Skylit

Your accuracy or "precision" actually has nothing to do with a specific DPI value. It's more or less resolution size vs yaw and pitch valve.

DPI serves as speed ^^


----------



## DavidCS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox*
> 
> I use mine at 900 dpi and have had no acceleration and I've yet to hit malfunction speed. I could not imagine gaming or using windows at higher than 1000 dpi it is just terrible lol.


Cant you just adjust the in game sensitivity and leave it on 1800 since its the native. I dont think the deathadder works on optimal level at 900 dpi imo


----------



## karod

I just realized how the cord scratching on the table gets amplified inside the mouse body.

I initially thought that there are crumbs under the mouse feet, but is from the braided cable scraping at the desk. And it doesn't scratch ant the edge of the desk where the cable goes down, no, it scratches on the plain surface.

Lifting the cable a bit with my hand completely mutes the sound.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> I just realized how the cord scratching on the table gets amplified inside the mouse body.
> I initially thought that there are crumbs under the mouse feet, but is from the braided cable scraping at the desk. And it doesn't scratch ant the edge of the desk where the cable goes down, no, it scratches on the plain surface.
> Lifting the cable a bit with my hand completely mutes the sound.


Mouse bungee, nuff said.


----------



## superbarnie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidCS*
> 
> Cant you just adjust the in game sensitivity and leave it on 1800 since its the native. I dont think the deathadder works on optimal level at 900 dpi imo


Changing ingame sensitivity will decrease accuracy.


----------



## grandpatzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superbarnie*
> 
> Changing ingame sensitivity will decrease accuracy.


How do you know this?


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superbarnie*
> 
> Changing ingame sensitivity will decrease accuracy.


Not true. All personal preference.

On a DA related note, had my 3.5G for almost 2 and a half years now, trusty gaming companion.


----------



## Phillychuck

Little issue with my plan at running at 3500, some games don't seem to have a low enough sensitivity reach the speed I like. So back to 1800 and see how that fairs.


----------



## SneakyRabbit

Im kinda new to this PC gaming stuff, and i've been trying to find the right mouse for me. I was using the EC2 Evo from Zowie, but I have some really bad tracking on my Spawn G-TF pad (even though its the same company lol). So I decided to give my old Deathadder 1800 version a try, but I dont know exactly what settings I should be using. I remember back when I first started using it there was some type of Mouse sensitivity slider along with the DPI settings, but its no longer there. I read that you can use 1800 dpi + 2.5 sensitivity on the slider, and 6/11 on windows. Im trying to get the optimal setting, but right now im using 400 DPI, 6/11, 1000hz.. and it feels fine to me. Like I said im not exactly experienced with this stuff.


----------



## meih

Too bad the tapefix worsens the vertical jitter massively. Horizontal is fine. Tried with two black clothpads, QcK heavy and Qpad UC XL. This is with the "recommended" Scotch Magic tape:



I also tried different types of tape I had lying around, but no luck. Jitter also happens when I cover the whole thing -- a method I've seen a few do. Anyone have any ideas...except buying the 1800 dpi version?

edit: Black Edition, 900 dpi, 500hz, 6/11, driver dpi slider untouched.
edit2: Expectedly, least amount of jitter at 1800 dpi and 500hz, but I'd much rather use it without the tape:


----------



## JustinSane

I'm using an 1800 and I don't believe I have that problem. Running it at 450 dpi and 6 windows sens. I have the tape over the whole sensor. Let me know if you want me to post a paint pic like that.


----------



## Zero4549

1800 dpi, full magic tape, doubled mouse feet, black cloth pad, standard sensitivity both in windows and drivers.

Absolutely no jitter. Tracks at 2 of my business cards, stops tracking at 3. (3 is just the tiniest bit thinner than a CD)

I use this thing for graphic art, CAD, and of course gaming, so even If I hadn't tested it, I'd have noticed through normal use.

I don't actually use the 3.5g sensor on my main rig so I guess I should test that at some point.


----------



## Skylit

Both mice use the exact same hardware. (Later 3G and 3.5G)

If there's any difference it's firmware, though I don't really recommend that tape method to begin with.


----------



## JustinSane

Yea I don't really wanna use the tape any more. I wish Razer would just make a DA/Abyssus with a low LOD.

BTW your old avatar was better Skylit







. I miss it already.


----------



## Finwens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinSane*
> 
> Yea I don't really wanna use the tape any more. I wish Razer would just make a DA/Abyssus with a low LOD.
> BTW your old avatar was better Skylit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I miss it already.


That's strange, the LOD in my deathadder is super low, lol. I don't need to use any tape.

900dpi, 6/11, 1000Hz.


----------



## Skylit

Lift off distance is highly surface specific.


----------



## Finwens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Lift off distance is highly surface specific.


Steelseries QcK Mini.


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Finwens*
> 
> That's strange, the LOD in my deathadder is super low, lol. I don't need to use any tape.
> 900dpi, 6/11, 1000Hz.


I ordered 2 DAs when they first came out. One came from TigerDirect, the other from Razer. The first one I opened had a super low lift off and I was in love with it. After a year the clickers started double clicking and messing up on me so I opened up the other box. The lift off was horribly high and I couldn't get used to it so I started looking for a new mouse. Found the Zowie EC1 and I was in love with it until the clickers did the same thing







. Got an evo ec1 and I can't stand the rubber sides so I went back to my old DA with the high lift off. Smacked some tape on it and it's decent till I can get a Zowie AM-FG. Weird how 2 mice ordered on the exact same day (pre-order) could differ so much with the LOD.


----------



## Skylit

LED tolerances.


----------



## duox

Maybe it's be ause I am old, but hen I was a kid with a ball mouse on a free tiny hp mouse pad I got in the practice of lifting my. Ouse very often. I just naturally lift my mouse in a way that lift off distance simply does not matter. Is it really that hard to lift a mouse a little bit higher?


----------



## NotAgain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox*
> 
> Maybe it's be ause I am old, but hen I was a kid with a ball mouse on a free tiny hp mouse pad I got in the practice of lifting my. Ouse very often. I just naturally lift my mouse in a way that lift off distance simply does not matter. Is it really that hard to lift a mouse a little bit higher?


The issue is that the mouse tracks the surface as you're lifting it during gameplay. The higher the lift-off distance, the further the mouse is going to move every time you lift it.


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox*
> 
> Maybe it's be ause I am old, but hen I was a kid with a ball mouse on a free tiny hp mouse pad I got in the practice of lifting my. Ouse very often. I just naturally lift my mouse in a way that lift off distance simply does not matter. Is it really that hard to lift a mouse a little bit higher?


That's where the issue was born lol. I was used to a ball mouse having very small lift off. It's not that I'm not used to lifting. I could probably get used to it but I'd rather be a ***** about it lol.


----------



## karod

My DA 3.5G has pretty close to 3mm LOD with a worn out Razer Destructor pad.
I might test the LOD on the Steelseries 4HD which I've got recently but not opened yet


----------



## nlmiller0015

isnt double stacking mouse feet bad since the optical sensor leaving the surface wont it lower the dpi counts or someting like that


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> isnt double stacking mouse feet bad since the optical sensor leaving the surface wont it lower the dpi counts or someting like that


I've had double stacked feet on for 8ish months now without a perceivable difference in dpi.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I've had double stacked feet on for 8ish months now without a perceivable difference in dpi.


I've noticed a slight DPI drop, and IMO tht's a good thing, Even 1800DPI is stupid high for a lot of games that have more limited sensitivity sliders.


----------



## meih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox*
> 
> Maybe it's be ause I am old, but hen I was a kid with a ball mouse on a free tiny hp mouse pad I got in the practice of lifting my. Ouse very often. I just naturally lift my mouse in a way that lift off distance simply does not matter. Is it really that hard to lift a mouse a little bit higher?


It really only bothers me when I'm playing fps games (I use a low sensitivity) and even then it's not a major issue, I'll just have to readjust the crosshair slightly every time the mouse touches the mousepad again after lifting it. But I thought I'd try the tape trick since I prefer a lower LOD. I just thought to post since so many people use the tapefix with a Deathadder and I haven't heard anyone experiencing the jitter. Anyway, here's at 1800 dpi and 500hz, which I've read should be the optimal settings:



Noticeably less jitter than with 900 dpi, which I use normally. And of course this was done by moving the mouse slowly on a QcK, which yields the worst jitter. I'll just continue using the mouse without any tape on the bottom


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I've noticed a slight DPI drop, and IMO tht's a good thing, Even 1800DPI is stupid high for a lot of games that have more limited sensitivity sliders.


I have to disagree with slightl to high. I am far from a giant mouse pad 450 dpi 1 sens cs player , I consider myself a mediumship sen gamer, but borderlands 2, Gotham city impostors, Monday night combat, and many games of the non shooter genre are straight up unplayable for me above 900 dpi, even on the games lowest sens settings.


----------



## gingerbeard

Hi, first post but long time lurker.

I've purchased a Deathadder 3.5G Black Edition and have been reading into optimising it as much as possible.

I've read some conflicting information here and there (and much of this thread) and wondered if anyone can clarify:


Why the optimal DPI is 1800 for 1:1 tracking? I've been searching for the data sheet for the S3888 but cannot find it anywhere, I have requested it though from a hardware distributor.
Has anyone seen any test results or other evidence to prove that the tracking is worse with the Synapse drivers? (Again I've been searching)
That this mouse is shipped with angle snapping/prediction off?
Also I read FraGTaLiTy's post here and this says that the 3.5G mice go 'out of control when you move it at high speeds' (jitter from what I've read elsewhere). Does anyone know if this was ever addressed by Razer?

Hella suggests that they all perform the same (apart from LOD) and his post is more recent than FraGTaLiTy's. Again I've been searching for issue logs or firmware notes for the Deathadder 3.5G and can't find anything conclusive.

Many thanks,

gingerbeard


----------



## Vikhr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gingerbeard*
> 
> Hi, first post but long time lurker.
> 
> Why the optimal DPI is 1800 for 1:1 tracking? I've been searching for the data sheet for the S3888 but cannot find it anywhere, I have requested it though from a hardware distributor.
> 
> *-* As far as I understand, the belief that 1800 dpi is the best setting is from the 3g DA which had very high tracking speeds at 1800 dpi but much worse tracking speeds at lower steps, I'm not sure about differences in tracking quality. The 3.5g DA appears to track well at 450/900, it maintains high tracking speeds and doesn't have any issues with jitter on most pads.
> Has anyone seen any test results or other evidence to prove that the tracking is worse with the Synapse drivers? (Again I've been searching)
> 
> *-* I wish I had saved some of the screenshots that I had from tests I did with the Synapse drivers, the tracking speed is significantly reduced at every single dpi step and it hovers at around ~2.2 m/s. The tracking itself is different, someone else can elaborate as I didn't spend much time before switching back to the original DA drivers. You also lose out on the onboard memory and a number of other features.
> That this mouse is shipped with angle snapping/prediction off?
> 
> *-* Yes
> Also I read FraGTaLiTy's post here and this says that the 3.5G mice go 'out of control when you move it at high speeds' (jitter from what I've read elsewhere). Does anyone know if this was ever addressed by Razer?
> 
> - I think he could be referring to early firmware versions of the 3.5g, I do believe that they had some issues with jitter (like the abyssus) and possibly tracking speed. Those problems should be absent from your DA unless you're using the Synapse 2.0 drivers then you'll run into the latter.


----------



## Skylit

@ Gingerbeard.

You won't find a S3888 datasheet, nor will anyone be capable of providing you one. (doubt one even exist in the first place.) "S3888" is an exclusive sensor branding for RazerUSA.

Refer to A3080 or A3090 datasheets if you want a basic overview of the operation of the the product.

Your questions:

1800 CPI (and 3500 CPI) is more or less the native sensor resolution. The lower steps (450/900) are halved and quartered from the main step, though I can't say theres much issue with this other than feeling slightly different from a native lower resolution mouse. In terms of IPS, both settings are fine imho.

Yes, the 3.5G is shipped without angle snapping.

FraGTaLiTy's guide is outdated. The 3.5G model of the DA works perfeclty fine (apart from me nitpicking unstable 125 (bout 132) and 1000hz (8xx) polling.) Cursor consistency and fidelity is better than a well majority of mice.


----------



## gingerbeard

Thanks guys

@Vikhr - interesting that you had tested the old drivers against the synapse so extensively, do you happen to know what version of the Synapse drivers you used? In any case this feels like reason enough to load up the old driver.

@Skylit - I thought that about the datasheet but gave it a go in any case. Can 1800 and 3500 both be native? Someone suggested somewhere that 3500 is achieved through interpolation but again it's very difficult to find hard facts on this stuff. Also I wonder if overclocking the USB port using the method here will fix the 1000hz polling rate issue?

I shall ignore FraGTaLiTy's comments on the 3.5G too.


----------



## Skylit

Yes, 2 native steps, and no 3500 isn't interpolated. Whoever stated that is likely confused presenting false info.

About polling. Should work if you default the mouse to 125hz. That method tells windows to poll @ x polling rate instead of the controller.


----------



## gingerbeard

Great, thanks again. I've since seen evidence of negative acceleration at 3500CPI above ~2.5m/s so will stay at 1800CPI as that handles ~5m/s. (Think that was on this site actually)

On polling I've tested my DA:BE and seen that 500 is very consistent so may just stick to that.


----------



## Nenkitsune

Reading this thread kinda makes me miss my DeathAdder. It did me good for something like 3 years. then the right click started getting messed up (the switch was beginning to fail, didn't really click good anymore) then my scrollwheel flat out busted the shaft so i had to take it out. Sensor still works great though.
Best little mouse I ever used and damn was it comfy. Besides the busted scroll wheel and wonky right click it still looks new. It's my backup now


----------



## DavidCS

DA.png 15k .png file
 Well this is how my deathadder look on my Qck+ at 1800 dpi 1000hz

Untitled.png 14k .png file
 this it at 450 and 1000hz is it suppose to be like this

I wonder If it would stop jittering at 500 hz


----------



## JustinB

I'm having some big problems with my DA 1800dpi. Screenshot-> http://snag.gy/YWJ1u.jpg
I'm using latest firmware (1.40) and no drivers. Any ideas?
Happens with every dpi (ss is taken with 1800dpi and 500hz)


----------



## Tuny

i have the blackeddition of the mouse and i'm trying to improve the lod by using a white mousepad
does the deathadder works well on white cloth pads?

thanks


----------



## xxgamxx

Anyone ever open up a 3.5g deathadder? Have pictures?


----------



## nlmiller0015

I have questsion didnt the new deathader 3.5g have screws underneath the mouse feet because my newer on dosent have any


----------



## albatross_

Saw some pages back someone saying that the Razer Synapse 2.0 driver might produce worse tracking than the standard driver. Is there any validity to this claim? I'm currently using 700dpi via the Synapse driver and am noticing some mouse jitter in windows. I don't really notice in game though.


----------



## end0rphine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albatross_*
> 
> Saw some pages back someone saying that the Razer Synapse 2.0 driver might produce worse tracking than the standard driver. Is there any validity to this claim? I'm currently using 700dpi via the Synapse driver and am noticing some mouse jitter in windows. I don't really notice in game though.


Lower PCS.


----------



## Skylit

The software interpolation method used for synapse is much worse than lower tracking speed. Hell, even the old driver could recalculate better.


----------



## maikon

well for me my sensitivty goes a bit high for no reason ... nothjing has been changed on ingame or on synapse.. not going mental since it was so obvious change,, after restarting my computetr i got my old sensitivty back. this happends way too often for me..


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> I have questsion didnt the new deathader 3.5g have screws underneath the mouse feet because my newer on dosent have any


screws should be under the front feet and under the sticker.


----------



## RegalX

edit


----------



## karod

I have a problem.
The mouse doesn't store the settings after uninstalling the driver.

I had a problem, where my external USB3 hdd didn't want to disconnect via the menu in the tray bar.
I then closed all programs and services after another (3rd party stuff).

Suddenly I got a bluescreen. I analyzed it with windbg and the culprit was danew.sys which is the deathadder driver.
So I wanted to uninstall the driver and use the mouse without it.

But now it feels way too fast.

In the driver I had selected 500hz, 1800dpi and 5.5 Sensitivity.

Could it be the Sense setting isn't stored?
How do I get the same 990DPi (1800dpi and razer sens 5.5 of 10) feeling without driver?

PS: The weird thing is, the danew.sys didn't get deleted after uninstalling the driver, so I deleted it manually.


----------



## Skylit

It won't save. Mouse was only setup to half and quater 1800 DPI. (450/900)

You need the driver to use alternative interpolated DPI.


----------



## karod

Ok, if I understand correctly.
The closest to 990dpi I can get without driver is to install the driver select 900dpi, then uninstall the driver.
And it will save 900dpi?

Only the razer sense isn't saved?!


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Ok, if I understand correctly.
> The closest to 990dpi I can get without driver is to install the driver select 900dpi, then uninstall the driver.
> And it will save 900dpi?
> Only the razer sense isn't saved?!


Yup.


----------



## albatross_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *end0rphine*
> 
> Lower PCS.


PCS? Clarification please!


----------



## karod

PCS = perfect control speed
Quote:


> the maximum speed a mouse could handle before it quits on you and skips


(source: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=335510)


----------



## d3adsy

Hey. I ordered razer deathadder 3.5g mouse and i would love to know if i can use it on hard mouse mat like razer exactmat?


----------



## karod

Sure you can.
Hard mats usually have the least problems with tracking.


----------



## d3adsy

Nice. Thanks!


----------



## albatross_

Is it just me or am I getting prediction on my Razer Deathadder BE? I'm not using Synapse. Using the DA driver v1.02. The mouse is on firmware v1.01. The picture was drawn at 900dpi with 1000hz polling rate and acceleration off.


----------



## karod

Sorry to interrupt.
I have uninstalled my driver and the dpi and hz are stored on board.

The light settings were initially stored, too.

But after my pc was disconnected from power overnight. Now all lights are lit up.

Do I now need to reinstall the driver and turn them off again, then uninstall the driver?
I don't want to do this at every boot.

I want the light settings stored. Don't they save on board, too?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Sorry to interrupt.
> I have uninstalled my driver and the dpi and hz are stored on board.
> The light settings were initially stored, too.
> But after my pc was disconnected from power overnight. Now all lights are lit up.
> Do I now need to reinstall the driver and turn them off again, then uninstall the driver?
> I don't want to do this at every boot.
> I want the light settings stored. Don't they save on board, too?


Why didn't you buy a Black Edition if you don't like the lightning?


----------



## karod

Because it didn't exist 4 years ago


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albatross_*
> 
> 
> Is it just me or am I getting prediction on my Razer Deathadder BE? I'm not using Synapse. Using the DA driver v1.02. The mouse is on firmware v1.01. The picture was drawn at 900dpi with 1000hz polling rate and acceleration off.


That isn't angle snapping (coined term prediction)


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Because it didn't exist 4 years ago


Then your mouse can't have warranty anymore so tear it up and unplug the led.


----------



## maikon

does it negative accerleration at 900 dpi


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maikon*
> 
> does it negative accerleration at 900 dpi


Surface/Engine/resolution/frame rate specific.- cs1.6 isn't the best option to test for this as frame rate is too low to refresh cursor positioning (100 fps). You'll be limited by the game before the cursor typically. esp w/ 900 DPI on lower resolutions such as 640x480, 800x600, and 1024x768.

I didn't have any issue on the Goliathus speed when I was playing with a lower sens (900 DPI). DA 3.5G has a different firmware set than the original 3G model that he seems to be quoting when sujoy did his testing.


----------



## albatross_

Does anyone have any information how to calibrate the same sensitivity when moving between different screen resolutions? For example I game at home at 1920x 1080 at 900dpi. But at LAN shops the screen resolution is typically only 1024x768. Would a lower sensitivity would suffice for a lower resolution? The shop uses Deathadders as well.


----------



## Skylit

swapping resolution changes your perception of environment, while I could give you a simple calculation method, it's almost meaningless in terms of how you feel at a specific res.

I would recommend to just play with 1024x768 interpolated on w/e LCD you're using at home.

What games are you playing specifically?


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Hey can someone give me a link to the version everyone's using I think it's a few version old I'm not sure I recently re-installed windows 7 and I was told to use the older drives.


----------



## albatross_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> swapping resolution changes your perception of environment, while I could give you a simple calculation method, it's almost meaningless in terms of how you feel at a specific res.
> I would recommend to just play with 1024x768 interpolated on w/e LCD you're using at home.
> What games are you playing specifically?


Hmm. So you are saying there is no method to reproduce the same sensitivity across resolutions?


----------



## Darkling5499

has anyone run into the problem of the middle button not working at all (no scrolling / clicking)? i've had my DA since they first came out, and i love it, but not having a middle mouse sucks for browsing / vent


----------



## BradleyKZN

Would like some help with this please, it is deathadder related

http://www.overclock.net/t/1314656/help-me-figure-this-out


----------



## DavidCS

Have a question guys when im using my DA BE at 450/500hz dpi it dosent seem to track all my movments when fast swiping why is that im using the razer gloth speed


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Didn't get an answer for my post above so I did a but of back tracking. I noticed a few months ago (when I got this mouse) most people where recommending everyone use the 3.02 drivers. Now it's been a few months, is everyone still using those drivers? If so can I have a link, if not what are you guys using now?


----------



## DavidCS

I dont know if its just me but it seems when i switch to 1800 dpi and use razer on the fly changer at 2.5 instead of 450 dpi option it was able to track my movments


----------



## karod

I use 900dpi, 500hz
Uninstalled the driver and use it without.
Before that I used 3.01

http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=446


----------



## Theobeo

Hey, I am considering to buy a deathadder, but I am weighing following options in if it should be v3.5g or black edition:

I want the LIGHTIEST buttons possible.
I want a very comfortable top feel, I dont want the matellic feel to be too cold or to frictionised.

Still, i want the mouse to have the best build quiality.

What should I choose?

Thank you


----------



## d3adsy

I would go for v3.5g


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theobeo*
> 
> Hey, I am considering to buy a deathadder, but I am weighing following options in if it should be v3.5g or black edition:
> I want the LIGHTIEST buttons possible.
> I want a very comfortable top feel, I dont want the matellic feel to be too cold or to frictionised.
> Still, i want the mouse to have the best build quiality.
> What should I choose?
> Thank you


Both of the mice you are looking at are nearly identical.

Similarities:

- Neither has any sort of "metallic" feel (they are both rubber on top, the black edition is just a metallic colored rubber).
- They have the same sensor, same PCB, and same switches.
- The shell itself under the rubber coatings is identical.
- They both now have the same cord.

Differences:

- Black edition's top coating is slightly smoother (less grippy, less prone to collecting debris and feeling "dirty).
- Black edition's sides are rubber coated (just like the top of the 3.5g), while the 3.5g has glossy hard plastic sides.
- Black edition has a tiny (approx 1x1cm) circuit board and two LEDs removed. This is a mostly cosmetic change, although it does technically make it lighter weight (although only by a negligible degree).
- Black edition's plastic shell is cured better. You probably will never notice this unless you open it up and look on the inside, although it may help the lower side button last a bit longer before breaking off (a flaw in the shell design for both versions)
- Cosmetically, they obviously look different.


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theobeo*
> 
> Hey, I am considering to buy a deathadder, but I am weighing following options in if it should be v3.5g or black edition:
> 
> I want the LIGHTIEST buttons possible. I want a very comfortable top feel, I dont want the matellic feel to be too cold or to frictionised.
> 
> Still, i want the mouse to have the best build quiality. What should I choose?
> Thank you


I bought both and I prefer the regular version over the black edition.

I do not like the rubber sides of the BE. For me they make the mouse "slippery" unlike the glossy version. But that didn't last for long as the coating wore off in 2 weeks. I don't understand why they coat glossy plastic, it won't stick that way. The top coating looks more like paint and feels different than the side coating.

I think the only thing the black edition has over the regular version is the scroll wheel being black.

I did not notice any shape difference. Maybe I will check and edit my post if so. I do not see why there would be.

Which would I choose if I was buying one again? The BE because I have bought mice with clear/white rubber scroll wheels and after some time the rubber would turn yellow.

If you can wait it is likely better to buy a Ninox Aurora. I feel that mouse will be many times more comfortable than the Deathadder. Only if I could get my hands on one early... looking tg buy 2 or 3 of them.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> I bought both and I prefer the regular version over the black edition.
> I do not like the rubber sides of the BE. For me they make the mouse "slippery" unlike the glossy version. But that didn't last for long as the coating wore off in 2 weeks. I don't understand why they coat glossy plastic, it won't stick that way. The top coating looks more like paint and feels different than the side coating.
> I think the only thing the black edition has over the regular version is the scroll wheel being black.
> I did not notice any shape difference. Maybe I will check and edit my post if so. I do not see why there would be.
> Which would I choose if I was buying one again? The BE because I have bought mice with clear/white rubber scroll wheels and after some time the rubber would turn yellow.
> If you can wait it is likely better to buy a Ninox Aurora. I feel that mouse will be many times more comfortable than the Deathadder. Only if I could get my hands on one early... looking tg buy 2 or 3 of them.


Don't take this the wrong way, I'm not trying to be offensive, but for once I need to agree with apple - you're using it wrong.

Those clear/white mouse wheels don't yellow. They get dirty like anything else does. Keep it clean and it won't be a problem. The one on my personal computer is still the same color as the first day I had it even though it is 3 years old.

The one on my other computer (which guests use) gets yellow quickly. I just pop out the wheel once every few months, wash it, and its 100% back to normal. That one is almost 5 years old!

As for the glossy sides, my black edition (shell) has been used every day for the last year and a half or so. It's not worn off one bit.

Now, i can agree that the rubbery sides can actually be more slippery than the glossy sides depending on how sweaty your hands get. That's entirely personal preference.


----------



## Phos

Was no one talking to the web designers? They made this same mistake on all three versions of this image. It's also interesting that they seem to have actually avoided blatant mirroring though I suspect the underlying image was mirrored and the logo was just shopped in correctly.

By the way, does the black edition still have the unsleeved cord?


----------



## Skylit

Looks like a left handed DA







(image is prob mirror'd though)

Black Edition always had a braided cable.


----------



## Phos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Looks like a left handed DA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (image is prob mirror'd though)
> Black Edition always had a braided cable.


I know it's the left handed DA, I'm talking about how they drew the 4G dual sensor malarky underneath it. There's also a picture on their site of a black edition with an unsleeved cable.


----------



## Skylit

Maybe they're hinting future projects. Who knows ^^


----------



## Skar

maybe the leak forces razer to announce it offically before CES - who knows.


----------



## Phos

The imperator already covers Razer's terrible ergonomic mouse market segment, so a 4G dual whatnot deathadder would be redundant. I guess that's why they didn't use the 3888 in the taipan, it would overlap too much with the imperator, so they needed to make it terrible.


----------



## woll3

The pic is just copied and mirrored from the new 3.5g DA Site.


----------



## karod

There we have a shot of the 4G Deathadder box

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f87/razer-deathadder-689310-87.html#post19591051


----------



## woll3

Just saying that i stole it out of the 4G Thread.


----------



## karod

Ah yeah, I found that thread after seeing your post on hardwareluxx.


----------



## Zero4549

Uh oh. Time to say goodbye to good mice with LEDs. You just know they're gonna stop selling the 3.5g now.

Hopefully they'll still keep the BE...


----------



## karod

Hopefully they don't make it a Deathadder Black Edition 4G


----------



## avinin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Hopefully they don't make it a Deathadder Black Edition 4G


Tםם late - it is in mass production already and beta testers got thier samples too (which causes the leak of this mouse)


----------



## Phos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Uh oh. Time to say goodbye to good mice with LEDs. You just know they're gonna stop selling the 3.5g now.
> Hopefully they'll still keep the BE...


Well, the Savu's rather good if it fits your hands and isn't on a Shinden.


----------



## nlmiller0015

Im about to buy atleast 5 more deathadder be. that can last me a life time.


----------



## Corder

Hey guys! Going to replace my Razer Krait with some Safe-Bet from Razer and seems it is DeathAdder Black Edition. Which MousePad would you recommend for it? (I want something stylish and working great with this mouse).

I prefer Palm Grip - would you recommend me checking Imperator before buying DeathAdder BA?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corder*
> 
> Hey guys! Going to replace my Razer Krait with some Safe-Bet from Razer and seems it is DeathAdder Black Edition. Which MousePad would you recommend for it? (I want something stylish and working great with this mouse).
> I prefer Palm Grip - would you recommend me checking Imperator before buying DeathAdder BA?


DA is perfect for palm grip. I like large soft minimalistic mousepads, so the razer goliathus speed alpha is great for me. Dunno if they still sell it though (all black version).


----------



## Dcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corder*
> 
> Hey guys! Going to replace my Razer Krait with some Safe-Bet from Razer and seems it is DeathAdder Black Edition. Which MousePad would you recommend for it? (I want something stylish and working great with this mouse).
> I prefer Palm Grip - would you recommend me checking Imperator before buying DeathAdder BA?


I had the Imperator and I would skip it if I was you. The sensor on the DA blows it out of the water.

In fact the DA is the best tracking mouse I have used so far.


----------



## Corder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dcode*
> 
> I had the Imperator and I would skip it if I was you. The sensor on the DA blows it out of the water.
> In fact the DA is the best tracking mouse I have used so far.


Ok so I guess DA BE is safe bet. What about mouse pad for it?
I can easily get Goliathus Speed, but maby some other Pads are good?


----------



## Dcode

Only used 1 cloth pad which is the Artisan Hein Mid so I can't really comment on other pads. Its tracks very well, just the LOD is a little too high.

If your a low sense gamer which is where I think this mouse works best it might be worth getting the Goliathus as its massive.


----------



## shaippen

Does anyone know roughly when razer updated the non-black edition deathadder with a sleeved cable? I'd like to get a hold of one with a rubber cord.


----------



## end0rphine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaippen*
> 
> Does anyone know roughly when razer updated the non-black edition deathadder with a sleeved cable? I'd like to get a hold of one with a rubber cord.


They updated it with the razer 3.5g. They only ones with a rubber cord are the 3g, obviously discontinued. You'd be lucky to find one in store, probably impossible.


----------



## Skylit

Remove the braiding yourself









That, or find a used/broken 3G model from the 2nd OEM run and transplant the cable.

PS: hella needs to update this thread. Quite a bit of info is wrong/dated.


----------



## Corder

Thanks guys, finally bought it!


----------



## AMD20x6

Just refurbished mine. I installed new left/right click switches and new teflon mouse feet. $10 total for everything including shipping! Now my Deathadder 3.5G no longer randomly double clicks or not at all when I only want to click once.


----------



## Corder

Hey guys, I bought DA BE! And Goliathus Speed. Feels really weird after my old Krait. Which settings (sensetivity etc) would you recommend? Which one is most common?

My definition is 1920x1080

I play League of Legends mostly.


----------



## shaippen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *end0rphine*
> 
> They updated it with the razer 3.5g. They only ones with a rubber cord are the 3g, obviously discontinued. You'd be lucky to find one in store, probably impossible.


Well, that makes me sad, I was so sure I had read someone compare the DA respawn and black edition, with the only significant differences being a sleeved cord and a rubberized coating on the black one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Remove the braiding yourself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That, or find a used/broken 3G model from the 2nd OEM run and transplant the cable.


I just tried removing some of the braid on a steelseries cable i had lying around, had no idea it was possible, but even with it removed I am not completely content with the flexibility, it wasn't a huge difference.

Are there any other ways to get a nice rubber, flexible cord? Is it possible to find a nice usb extension cable and cut off one end and then attach it to the mouse socket thing? or are there any third party plug-and-play cords available?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaippen*
> 
> Well, that makes me sad, I was so sure I had read someone compare the DA respawn and black edition, with the only significant differences being a sleeved cord and a rubberized coating on the black one.
> I just tried removing some of the braid on a steelseries cable i had lying around, had no idea it was possible, but even with it removed I am not completely content with the flexibility, it wasn't a huge difference.
> Are there any other ways to get a nice rubber, flexible cord? Is it possible to find a nice usb extension cable and cut off one end and then attach it to the mouse socket thing? or are there any third party plug-and-play cords available?


There's nothing stopping you from stripping the cable and resleeving it. Wouldn't really recommend that though.

Alternatively, you can take a look at the pin out and create one yourself. It's not super complicated but it's probably more effort than its worth.


----------



## Piospi

I have a DeathAdder 3G, which driver do you recommend ? Razer Synapse 2.0 ?


----------



## indstri

Most would suggest the pre-Synapse drivers at this point:

Razer DeathAdder Windows Driver
http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=235&pcid=131&nav=0,76,168,11,131

Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Windows Driver
http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=236&pcid=147&nav=0,76,168,48,147

Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Black Edition Windows Driver
http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=237&pcid=154&nav=0,76,168,88,154

The latest version for all should be 3.05 except for the BE which is 1.02.


----------



## Reactions

If you set the mouse to for example 900 DPI and 500 Hz in the old DA drivers, then uninstall them, is it true that you'll still have these settings? Haven't gotten around to testing it yet, but the old DA drivers make my mouse bug from time to time, and the new ones are **** so.

Also, if this is possible, is there any reason not to buy the old DA other than less DPI? I found a store which sells the Guild Wars version of it and I'm tempted to buy it as the lift distance on the 3.5G is WAY too high on QCK+ (have to use QPAD CT mat to even be able to use it), I've tried tape fix but it really messed up the sensor and made the tracking non-perfect.

Also, anyone know if the Guild Wars Deathadder (1800 DPI) is 3G v2 or v3? I want a mouse with low lift distance, but without prediction and ****ty sensors (Zowie EC1/EC2







)


----------



## popups

The Zowie doesn't have a bad sensor. It just compromises the potential performance for a low lift off distance. Whereas the DeathAdder doesn't and therefore has the high lift off. The reality is for great tracking you have to have very good illumination. The side effect is high lift off.

Currently every mouse in production have their idiosyncrasies. You have to choose what is more important to you.

Mouse feet thickness, mouse pad and sensor have to be chosen for a certain goal.


----------



## Skylit

^I view it as cutting corners and saving money.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shaippen*
> 
> Well, that makes me sad, I was so sure I had read someone compare the DA respawn and black edition, with the only significant differences being a sleeved cord and a rubberized coating on the black one.
> I just tried removing some of the braid on a steelseries cable i had lying around, had no idea it was possible, but even with it removed I am not completely content with the flexibility, it wasn't a huge difference.
> Are there any other ways to get a nice rubber, flexible cord? Is it possible to find a nice usb extension cable and cut off one end and then attach it to the mouse socket thing? or are there any third party plug-and-play cords available?


The DA Braid/cord isn't that restrictive at all. Completely usable imho.


----------



## popups

@Skylit

How do you lower the LOD without messing with the illumination with a the standard 1.0x lens?

What is the definition of "tracking quality" as referred to by the users here? Let's say between the DeathAdder and the Zowie mice. Do they mean deviation?

I know changing the lens and using a different LED is way easier than testing and programming accordingly.

At the end of the day wouldn't you have to compromise performance on particular mouse pads regardless?


----------



## Reactions

http://www.razerzone.com.br/products/gaming_mice/razer_deathadder_guildwars/

Anyone know if this is 3G V2 or V3? Got a respawn currently, but it has way too high lift distance.


----------



## Skylit

repost.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> @Skylit
> How do you lower the LOD without messing with the illumination with a the standard 1.0x lens?
> What is the definition of "tracking quality" as referred to by the users here? Let's say between the DeathAdder and the Zowie mice. Do they mean deviation?
> I know changing the lens and using a different LED is way easier than testing and programming accordingly.
> At the end of the day wouldn't you have to compromise performance on particular mouse pads regardless?


-I rather not discuss that in public.
-I have my own personal views of "tracking quality" as in what I feel and see.
-It's a lot more complicated then switching a few parts of hardware or programming such and such accordingly, though I feel the easiest way to "fix" the so called "issue" is to promote special surfacing and colored pads that aid in lift off reduction. (Hint: Black cloth isn't helping) Of course, there are multiple ways to achieve such a goal on the hardware itself. I'm just not one to give out free ideas.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reactions*
> 
> http://www.razerzone.com.br/products/gaming_mice/razer_deathadder_guildwars/
> Anyone know if this is 3G V2 or V3? Got a respawn currently, but it has way too high lift distance.


Original or what Hella refers to as "V2"


----------



## popups

@Skylit

Well it is know that certain textures, materials and colours effect the tracking either positively or negatively. The problem is most companies just make black pads and/or with their multi coloured logos.

So should a mouse be developed for the pads people use now or could you convince the mouse pad companies to remove their logos and change from the cheap black to something else?

Although black is the better performing colour overall for the Avago optical sensor.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> @Skylit
> Well it is know that certain textures, materials and colours effect the tracking either positively or negatively. The problem is most companies just make black pads and/or with their multi coloured logos.
> So should a mouse be developed for the pads people use now or could you convince the mouse pad companies to remove their logos and change from the cheap black to something else?
> Although black is the better performing colour overall for the Avago optical sensor.


It's not that black is "cheap". It's because it goes nicely with everyone's everything.

My case is black, my monitor is black, my speakers are black, keyboard is black, mouse is black, g13 is black, foot pedals are black, subwoofer is black, headphones are black, router is black, cd rack is black, radiator is black. Stapler, tape dispenser, and flashlight which all live on my desk are black. My camera and it's tripod are black. My phone is black. All my cables are black.

You think I want an orange mouse pad?


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> @Skylit
> Well it is know that certain textures, materials and colours effect the tracking either positively or negatively. The problem is most companies just make black pads and/or with their multi coloured logos.
> So should a mouse be developed for the pads people use now or could you convince the mouse pad companies to remove their logos and change from the cheap black to something else?
> Although black is the better performing colour overall for the Avago optical sensor.


Depending on how much current the LED is outputting, lighter textures can be a non issue, though we may have a combination of higher lift off and inconsistency in some areas of a surface. Really situational. Rather than just black, a "solid surface color" is optimal within limits. Of course you're right to say black offers very accurate performance, just not really a necessity if you're focused on lowering lift detection.. I do think swapping out surfacing to compromise is a better idea than a majority of possible methods on the hardware itself.

I believe R&D for bigger companies aim for surface compatibility rahter than the absolute max speed or overall tracking. The DA3.5G for example tracks pretty well on my wood and plastic tables. Lift off detection is at a mere minimum. IPS speed isn't anything spectacular, but again, very situational as a table is not a optimal surface. I'm sure a good majority of DA owners don't even own mouse pads. What would happen if these mice didn't track "okayish" on a basic table? I could assume that there would be a whole bunch of unneeded RMAs.


----------



## ZProtoss

I have a question in regards to button response time that I'm hoping someone here might be able to answer:

I recently switched from a Logitech G9X to a Deathadder 3.5g. While the tracking improvement was immediate and noticable, something felt off about the overall response time. Eventually, I came to the rough conclusion (via testing) that the left click response time I was getting on the razer mouse was an average of 15-20ms slower than that of the G9X.

(Note: Testing was done doing mutliple run throughs here: http://aim400kg.ru/train/?a=pr )

This isn't really a subject that seems to come or is even something that people generally test, so finding feedback on this has been difficult. Is it a matter of varying quality microswitches? Mechanical encoder quality? A mouse button just not being broken in yet? Maybe just a bad mouse that wasn't properly QA tested?

Any help/advice would be appreciated.


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Depending on how much current the LED is outputting, lighter textures can be a non issue, though we may have a combination of higher lift off and inconsistency in some areas of a surface.
> 
> I'm sure a good majority of DA owners don't even own mouse pads. What would happen if these mice didn't track "okayish" on a basic table? I could assume that there would be a whole bunch of unneeded RMAs.


Black doesn't reflect light like white does. So why is LOD lower on white?

I have always used a mouse pad. Even when I didn't know how a mouse worked or even cared. I never met anyone who didn't -- that wasn't an old person.

So should BST have a mouse that follows the DeathAdder in that regard (tracking on table tops) over having it perform best on mouse pads the target consumer [gamers] use and will use? Why buy his product when you have the DeathAdder already if that was the case?

I would buy it regardless if it has the same performance as the DeathAdder (including high LOD), if it was in a shell that was nearly identical to the Intellimouse Optical, but with 2 side buttons instead of one. The Zowie AM isn't the same (too narrow) so I wouldn't buy it for the shape and the performance doesn't justify it over the DeathAdder's shape. I did order an EC2 EVO though (for the shape) to contrast the DeathAdder. Might exchange it for the EC1 if it is too small. My hand/wrist couldn't wait any longer for BST's mouse (as I am not beta testing).


----------



## ZProtoss

A few extra bits of info for my above post:

In fairness to the Deathadder, I just opened a mouse i never intended to use (won in a tournament), a Tt saphira mouse. I didn't do anywhere near the repetitions on it that I did for the G9X/deathadder, but the Saphira mouse seems to be identical to the deathadder (or within 5 ms or so anyways).

So right now I'm stuck trying to figure out why my G9X has a button response time that is substantially faster than any of the two above mice. Ugh.


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZProtoss*
> 
> Is it a matter of varying quality microswitches? Mechanical encoder quality? A mouse button just not being broken in yet? Maybe just a bad mouse that wasn't properly QA tested?
> Any help/advice would be appreciated.


It could simply be that the shell is different. That could effect response both on actuation and deactivation. You could bend the internals of the switch or add a buffer to decrease the time and pressure to actuate. It is a leaf spring and a magnet so variation is unavoidable.

How do you use that site?


----------



## ZProtoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> It could simply be that the shell is different. That could effect response both on actuation and deactivation. You could bend the internals of the switch or add a buffer to decrease the time and pressure to actuate. It is a leaf spring and a magnet so variation is unavoidable.
> How do you use that site?


The site I linked (or a similar site here - http://www.humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime/index.php) I use by doing repetitions in large amounts (around 50 usually), and comparing the averages between mice.

How would you recommend bending the internals of the switch to make the response time faster?


----------



## popups

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=506750&sid=9cc68f36c3e79966420af50f43f2f9f3


----------



## jjpjimmy

I've got the same slow input times as zprotoss has. I do not have Synapse, but do have the archived drivers installed

My IME3.0 and Logitech mouses register clicks consistently faster than the DA:BE.

I'll give the Silencing mod a try. I've been looking to silence the mouse anyways.


----------



## Zero4549

Are these slow inputs being experienced on synapse 2.0? That whole thing is a mess. Never had any issues with my Deathsdders without it.


----------



## ranviper

Mine's still clicking away!


----------



## jjpjimmy

Just finished applying the silencing to the mouse and trying out the Human Benchmark's test...

Before 175 (absolute lowest) ~ 220ms

after 143 (absolute lowest) ~ 200ms, very easy sub 200ms on most of them.

If there's a problem with this mod is that the pressure difference from middle button to the rest of them are massively different now.


----------



## ZProtoss

So I think it's worth mentioning here - why have people never gone out of their way to rate mice on button reaction speed?

Given that people are able to get tremendous improvements in reaction speed by doing extremely ghetto mods, I can imagine that those gains can be made much more significant by using microswitches that trigger with less force.

For reference, the poster above me ended up with an almost 20% gain on the fastest end of the spectrum, and roughly a 10% gain (probably more on average noting what he said) on the slower end. That difference is *massive*. Yet, it's completely ignored on almost all levels. Why?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZProtoss*
> 
> So I think it's worth mentioning here - why have people never gone out of their way to rate mice on button reaction speed?
> Given that people are able to get tremendous improvements in reaction speed by doing extremely ghetto mods, I can imagine that those gains can be made much more significant by using microswitches that trigger with less force.
> For reference, the poster above me ended up with an almost 20% gain on the fastest end of the spectrum, and roughly a 10% gain (probably more on average noting what he said) on the slower end. That difference is *massive*. Yet, it's completely ignored on almost all levels. Why?


Almost all mice use the same switches, and the user has significantly more impact on the "reaction time" than the switch itself.


----------



## ZProtoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> *Almost all mice use the same switches*


That's exactly my point. Unlike tracking performance which the gold standard that mouse manufacturers pride themselves on, the quality of the buttons being used is mostly uniform across most brands. Even though there are very clear performance benefits to be gained from either drastically breaking in your mouse, or simply doing a modification as mentioned a bit earlier in the thread.

I don't have the technical skill to easily pull it off, but it'd be interesting to see someone mod a custom microswitch (not just modifying the stock microswitch) into a mouse like the deathadder. Basic research seems to indicate that the resistance force on most microswitches is between 50-75 grams. I believe Omron makes switches as sensitive as 16 grams


----------



## apSlain

I actually own two DeathAdders, and I haven't had a problem with them. I originally had a DeathAdder V2, but I found that my palms sweat too much, so I bought the Black Edition and it's been great.

Just a quick question, though: the ESReality page on the original DeathAdder mentions a clipping issue when using 450DPI and 900DPI. Was this fixed in the latter iterations of the DeathAdder i.e. the V2 and Black Edition? I've searched, but to no avail.

Thanks, to anyone who has information on this


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZProtoss*
> 
> So I think it's worth mentioning here - why have people never gone out of their way to rate mice on button reaction speed?
> Given that people are able to get tremendous improvements in reaction speed by doing extremely ghetto mods, I can imagine that those gains can be made much more significant by using microswitches that trigger with less force.
> 
> For reference, the poster above me ended up with an almost 20% gain on the fastest end of the spectrum, and roughly a 10% gain (probably more on average noting what he said) on the slower end. That difference is *massive*. Yet, it's completely ignored on almost all levels. Why?


Because that would call for a more scientific test to be really taken seriously. The average person doesn't care about milliseconds of delay when playing games. They will use 60Hz monitors, wireless keyboards and mice.

The switches are "leaf" springs; so variance will be there. Trying to reduce the actuation force will increase the fail rate during production and thereby increase costs. Can also reduce the life of the switch. Even if you did do this -- not everyone wants such sensitive switches -- they would be to unforgiving.

Additionally the shell of the mouse would have to be made with tighter tolerances to make use of such switches. The DeathAdder has a little take up before it starts to actuate the switch, that reduces your response time.

In short, too much effort for very little reward, that will go unseen by the masses. Easier to just bend the pole (reduce total travel) closer to the contact yourself.


----------



## nlmiller0015

Are hyperglidez faster than the original deathadder BE: mouse feet


----------



## jjpjimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> Are hyperglidez faster than the original deathadder BE: mouse feet


Yes, but I only faintly remember the stock feet...They got overlapped by the hyperglides so quickly after purchasing the mouse...


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> Are hyperglidez faster than the original deathadder BE: mouse feet


They are noticeably faster. Though my originals were worn.

I put some Diamondback Hyper-Glide feet on my DeathAdder to decrease the LOD by 0.5-0.8mm. They are louder on my Artisan Shiden Kai than the originals. That could be because of a few reasons. At least the bottom of the mouse doesn't hit the pad anymore.

Look at Hot Line games mouse feet on Ebay. Cheaper and seem just as good. You can get them in 0.18mm or 0.5mm. If you are using a black cloth pad you might want to look at Puretrak 1.2mm feet. I like the 0.5mm for my pad as it gives me about 2mm LOD, which I find to be a good in between.


----------



## MrFerrari

I will soon get the hyperglides(probably monday), when I do I can compare it to Razers own aftermarket black skatez. The original skatez sucks, and so does corepads skatez. Razers own black aftermarket skatez are really nice, they are rounded and comes nicely packaged with alcoholswabs. They feel a lot more exclusive than the hyperglides. I've used hyperglides in the past, but when they were out of stock I took the chance and tried corepads and razers.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFerrari*
> 
> I will soon get the hyperglides(probably monday), when I do I can compare it to Razers own aftermarket black skatez. The original skatez sucks, and so does corepads skatez. Razers own black aftermarket skatez are really nice, they are rounded and comes nicely packaged with alcoholswabs. They feel a lot more exclusive than the hyperglides. I've used hyperglides in the past, but when they were out of stock I took the chance and tried corepads and razers.


Id be lost without my hyperglides


----------



## nlmiller0015

Would my deathadder glide well even if there not stacked


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> Would my deathadder glide well even if there not stacked


On a hard mat, _maybe_. On soft? nope.


----------



## MrFerrari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Id be lost without my hyperglides


I haven't noticed any real performance difference between the Hyperglides and Razers own aftermarket skatez. Razer comes in a more exclusive package, but the hyperglides looks to be better made as the corners are rounded. It's hard for me to tell if there is any real difference as I've been using my G400 (with corepad skatez) as primary mouse during the time of the swap, and that mouse glides better than the DA with both skatez. So even if the Hyperglides are better than the Razers, the glide still doesn't feel perfect. I always "break in" my skatez by pressing the mouse down on my ultimat (smooth alupad) and run the mouse in circles for a longer time, and then I push the mouse really hard on a QcK to make the glides even smoother. Otherwise it's common that the skatez doesn't feel as good as they could, if there is a corner or something that's getting stuck on the mousepad the feeling won't be optimal. I also bought the Puretraks perfectglide HD, but I only got the 2 skatez for the front of the mouse :S, and I haven't bother dealing with it. If they can't count to three, fcuk it







but if they read this and want to show how awesome their customer support is







, they can happily PM me. Doesn't matter what company it is, or what you are buying, there's always a chance that the product is faulty, it's just how it is.


----------



## NMunro

Does the tape fix for the DeathAdder affect tracking at all? I put a piece of opaque scotch tape over the sensor of my 3.5G DA and it's LOD is now less than 1 CD.


----------



## popups

Technically it does. In common usage will you notice? Unlikely.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> Technically it does. In common usage will you notice? Unlikely.


Pretty much this.

If you play at super low sensitivity with huge sweeping movements on a poor mousepad, you might notice. Of course in such a case, LOD is pretty much meaningless anyway.


----------



## nlmiller0015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apSlain*
> 
> I actually own two DeathAdders, and I haven't had a problem with them. I originally had a DeathAdder V2, but I found that my palms sweat too much, so I bought the Black Edition and it's been great.
> Just a quick question, though: the ESReality page on the original DeathAdder mentions a clipping issue when using 450DPI and 900DPI. Was this fixed in the latter iterations of the DeathAdder i.e. the V2 and Black Edition? I've searched, but to no avail.
> Thanks, to anyone who has information on this


I think the deathadder at 450 and 900 dpi runs on the same tracking speeds like 1800 dpi now someone correct me if im wrong


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> I think the deathadder at 450 and 900 dpi runs on the same tracking speeds like 1800 dpi now someone correct me if im wrong


it does for a long time already.


----------



## NotAgain

Isn't that only if you are running Synapse?


----------



## Thunderbringer

I dont know which version exactly guess v2, but fw 1.39 driver 3.05.


----------



## MrFerrari

I get over 4m/s with [email protected] in Enotus


----------



## Thunderbringer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFerrari*
> 
> I get over 4m/s with [email protected] in Enotus




Maybe this will bring light into the dark. What info is on/beneath your DA?


----------



## nlmiller0015

I think you need the 3.5g vs thunder is that it


----------



## Skylit

All 3 of the DA releases will differ in terms of IPS tracking speed.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

hey Windows 8 users, what drivers are you using?


----------



## Ino.

Just wanted to let you guys know:

I have bought a new 3.5G Deathadder via Amazon Marketplace and received a fake version!
I've heard of fake Abyssus before, there are now fake Deathadders as well. It was quite easy to distinguish from the original as the lower shell had sharp edges from the injection molding and the plastic was a lot cheaper than the one Razer usually uses. You could see that the surface had kind of little bubbles.

Worst thing was the sensor performance though: 0.5m/s max speed in Enotus.

Also the Razer software couldn't detect any mouse, so there's another hint to it being fake.


----------



## Skylit

Was it from Amazon directly or via 3rd party on amazon?


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Was it from Amazon directly or via 3rd party on amazon?


Third party, sorry not to make that clear. That's what I meant with Amazon Marketplace. Amazon in Germany seems to only seel the DA via third party unfortunately. Now I had to order it somewhere else to get an original one.


----------



## popups

Do you have a link to the seller? What was the items description?


----------



## Ino.

This is the shop where I bought it: MULTI SM

Apperently they don't have anything in stock right now... weird. I can't find the old link to it either. The Item description was the same as usual, the standard Amazon description.


----------



## Azuredragon1

well time for my death adder to be RMA


----------



## Thunderbringer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotAgain*
> 
> I wonder if I should maybe return my DeathAdder Black Edition then. It's just turned up and seems to be malfunctioning at high speeds:
> 
> 
> 
> My old DeathAdder BE (pre-ordered launch unit) did _not_ malfunction like this.
> The wheel design seems to have been updated (an improvement) and the feet are softer than the old ones.


Just received a DA BE as a birthday present







:



So NotAgain you were right, in terms of performance its a degeneration (compared to my old 3G DA). Now i would like to test it with the 1.00 firmware, before i try some LED stuff since it came with 1.01 installed. Has somebody a link to it?


----------



## NotAgain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thunderbringer*
> 
> Just received a DA BE as a birthday present
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1118440/width/350/height/700
> So NotAgain you were right, in terms of performance its a degeneration (compared to my old 3G DA). Now i would like to test it with the 1.00 firmware, before i try some LED stuff since it came with 1.01 installed. Has somebody a link to it?


I don't know that you can downgrade to 1.00, but you wouldn't want to anyway. With the original DeathAdder Black I had, which shipped on 1.00, 1.01 fixed some tracking issues.

I want to point out though, that I haven't had any issues with the tracking above 450 DPI, and I typically run at 1800 DPI in games anyway (with sensitivity at 1 in the game) which seems to track best. That was also on a smooth white mouse pad, something darker or more textured tends to work better with optical mice.

I do wonder if the 4G DeathAdder will perform better - I wouldn't be so sure, because it seems that most mice just keep getting worse these days. Even the newer 3090 mice don't seem to track as well as the 3888 in the DeathAdder. They all seem to fail at high speeds. My Savu did seem to do well at medium speeds and handled 1000Hz better than the DeathAdder does, but I don't like going above 500Hz anyway.

3500 DPI seems better on this than 4000 DPI on the Savu, but that's much higher than anyone should need.


----------



## Skylit

@ thunderbringer. Performance is nearly identical to the 3G results you posted. Other than having slightly different firmware, LED tolerances or rating range can effect max IPS when moving from sample to sample. Meaning you'll have mice with lower and higher Max IPS, granted Enotus can also be off ^^

@NotAgain.

It's more along the lines of surrounding hardware, firmware, and electrical design over the actual sensor. Other than branding ID, there shouldn't be anything really different in terms of the actual sensor processing. I suppose there is one notable change moving onto 3090 though, not that it effects tracking


----------



## Thunderbringer

@Skylit. This is my second DA, so i had not a chance to compare until now. I would not say identical, but similar results (3G - 3.5G)











Tests on same pad as before but red LED.



The lod is now <1.2mm (qck, goliathus med/alpha, mantis control/speed). The surface detection did not suffer, my prime example here: the ss i-2 still tracks on it without a flaw/skip.


----------



## popups

I don't see why that LED would cause deviation. It would lower the maximum performance if it isn't as bright. As long as the m/s is in the mid 3s or higher should be good.

I thought it wasn't possible to use non IR light with the 3.5g.


----------



## Skylit

I would comment, but a lot of that information is quite delicate.


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> I would comment, but a lot of that information is quite delicate.


DO COMMENT NOW! Seriously, I'm more than curious about that!


----------



## nlmiller0015

I just got stock feet from razer you dont need ot stack them im not have that drag feel anymore o.o


----------



## karod

Hey,
I had some time and disassembled my DA.
I cleaned everything.
I scraped off the partially removed rubber coating.
Now it is smooth without feeling like rubber.

One draw-back, the scroll wheel light doesn't work any more
But I don't know why. I don't have drivers installed and only the pulsating Logo lights up.
It doesn't bother me though.

Here are some pics.
Without the flash you don't notice the white lines on the surface. It is all black


----------



## xarge

Hello fellow Deathadder users 

I recently changed to the Deathadder Black Edition, after using a line of ambidextrous mice, like the steelseries sensei and kana and latest (and the one i liked the most) the zowie AM.

Following the change to the beloved deathadder, i have a couple of questions which i hope some of you can help me answer.

The first question: Which driver is the most optimal using? I've read that the synapse 2.0 ones isnt working optimal. In my own experience i find it quite wierd that when you set it to 1000hz, it runs 500 stable (499) and when you choose 500 it doesnt run 500hz as stable as the 1000hz one does? Which indicates for me that something is wrong with this driver.

Secondly: Is there any way to reduce the liftoff distance, without extreme modding? Since i come from the zowie AM which has very low LOD, it's quite hard to get used to the DA's high LOD.

And the very last one: If i choose to go with the non-synapse 2.0 driver (the 1.02 one - i think it's called) would it make my Razer Blackwiddow Ultimate perform worse without a driver? This is quite important since im playing CS:GO competitively.

Im looking to play with 450 DPI (or 400 if im going with the synapse driver) because im a FPS gamer, as i've already mentioned. And when it comes the polling rate it doesn't really matter, as long as it's stable.

Hope some of you can answer my questions, even though this post looks a bit confusing.

Best regards xarge.


----------



## nlmiller0015

Dont use synapse it lower the performance. Use the legacy drivers 1800 and 3500 are the native settings but the other dpi steps are pretty good i use 450 dpi on battlefield 3 and im able to maintain a 25% accuracy there not much difference between 1000 hz and 500hz but it also depends on the input lag on your monitor. I use 1000 hz since it runs fine on my motherboard


----------



## nlmiller0015

edit


----------



## nonamed

Which non-synapse driver is the latest ?? Please give a link or number version .


----------



## nlmiller0015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamed*
> 
> Which non-synapse driver is the latest ?? Please give a link or number version .


This is the link for the 3.5g http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=794


----------



## xarge

And for the DA BE one its 1.02 right?


----------



## nonamed

TU . Finally I found where is the rest of previous drivers on Razer site :

Choose your mouse:

http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=76&pcid=0&nav=0


----------



## thorsteNN

it seems they noticed all the angry users not willin to use their synapse software.
now they again list the classic old driver when u search for your deathadder 3.5G.

they call it "Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Windows Legacy Driver (English)" now.
watching the creation/mod date, it seems to be the latest driver, we all know already.

http://www.razersupport.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=794&nav=0,76,168,48,147


----------



## nonamed

I am using old DA 3G 1800 and I wonder which DPI setting is the best... ? :/ Someone posted that playin FPS games he uses 450DPI , lower DPI is more accurate in this mouse or what ? Can not stand this..

TU


----------



## nlmiller0015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xarge*
> 
> And for the DA BE one its 1.02 right?


Yea i use the be its 102


----------



## nlmiller0015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamed*
> 
> I am using old DA 3G 1800 and I wonder which DPI setting is the best... ? :/ Someone posted that playin FPS games he uses 450DPI , lower DPI is more accurate in this mouse or what ? Can not stand this..
> TU


Im not sure about the 3G. I know on the 3.5g though they fixed the issues with the lower dpi setting not being able to run on higher speed


----------



## Someguy316

What exactly can I do if I tried to reinstall the firmware on my Deathadder and it caused an error thus bricking the mouse? I had reinstalled the firmware before because the scrollwheel was acting up and that fixed it. Well, it does get powered but it just keeps showing up as an "enCoRe III Example Device: BL (3.4.1.20)" being plugged in.


----------



## nonamed

I guess everyone has heared about new 2013 edition of DeathAdder with upgraded sensor and ruuber sides... If no there You are: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder

I wonder what kind of rubber did they use in new DA on TOP ? Is it the same finish as in BlackEdition series or rather the same kind of rubber (very grippy) which covered top cover in 3g and 3.5g respawn...

Maybe someone had a chance to see it and may share more info...


----------



## Jaju123

The deathadder new surface feels like fine sandpaper made of plastic. Very grippy.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nonamed

Realized that theres is already a thread started about 4G DA . Regards


----------



## u-1221

Anyone have Deathadder 3.5G and QCK Heavy mousepad combo???
I want to buy a new mousepad and want to go with QCK Heavy just wondering how well these two go together.
I play COD5 mostly and I play assault running strategy so I am also interested how much glide does this pad have as I really need lots of speed ingame, is it similar to Goliathus speed edition??
THX


----------



## nlmiller0015

you should get goliathus speed the qck heavy kind of slow with the deathaadder


----------



## duox

Arent the qck mass and heavy basically the same? I find it incredibly slick with my deathadder , way more so than my goliathus was, but I cannot remember if I jad the control or the speed version.


----------



## nlmiller0015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duox*
> 
> Arent the qck mass and heavy basically the same? I find it incredibly slick with my deathadder , way more so than my goliathus was, but I cannot remember if I jad the control or the speed version.


There the same i love using my qck mass for my keyboard as a wrist rest for me I bought razer stock feet for some reason i dont need to double stack them cause there gliding way better than my original ones


----------



## jerronchua55

Not sure if this was asked before but is it possible to swap the 3G V2 PCB onto the 3.5G's shell? The first post only stated that the 3.5G PCB would not fit onto the 3G V2 shell and did not mention anything about vice versa.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerronchua55*
> 
> Not sure if this was asked before but is it possible to swap the 3G V2 PCB onto the 3.5G's shell? The first post only stated that the 3.5G PCB would not fit onto the 3G V2 shell and did not mention anything about vice versa.


no, that doesn't work either.


----------



## Crooksy

4G needs to be added to this thread!


----------



## Blacksetter

Looking at this mouse. I'm not a gamer but I want a high quality mouse. Are the two side buttons able to be assigned funcionality for accessing programs, or just for certain games? I'd like to have a quick way to get to Character Map and one other..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826153072


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacksetter*
> 
> Looking at this mouse. I'm not a gamer but I want a high quality mouse. Are the two side buttons able to be assigned funcionality for accessing programs, or just for certain games? I'd like to have a quick way to get to Character Map and one other..
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826153072


By default they are set to be forward and back buttons in your browser. They do other things in various programs, but with the software I'm pretty sure you could reassign them. Someone will have to confirm this, though as I'm only with my Mac right now.


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blacksetter*
> 
> Looking at this mouse. I'm not a gamer but I want a high quality mouse. Are the two side buttons able to be assigned funcionality for accessing programs, or just for certain games? I'd like to have a quick way to get to Character Map and one other..
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826153072


I don't know about synapse but pre-synapse drivers allow you to use them for pretty much everything. So yes, it is possible.


----------



## Blacksetter

Thanks for the replies, gents.


----------



## nonamed

Will top shell from DA 3.5G fit old DA 1800DPI 3G V3 ? Is the top cover the same in both models ?


----------



## u-1221

Is there any way to lower LOD (lift off distance) on my Deathadder 3.5G, as it is too high atm.I´m using Driver ver. 3.02 and firmware ver. 2.45???
I´ve heard that there is trick with scotch magic tape, you need to cover your sensor with tape and it helps lowering your LOD, but I doubt that sensor works the way it should after you cover it with tape hm..So I was wondering is there any other way to reduce it???
THX


----------



## Skylit

If you don't want to distort cursor innately, find a lighter colored cloth surface or experiment with a few hard pads.


----------



## Nano2k

Just got a Deathadder 3.5, been using Logitech G9-G9x for many years. The Deathadder is really really good, I'm impressed!


----------



## hella

OP here, I've been real out of the loop on the new deathadder. Anyone want to submit some content to add to the front page? Will credit author!


----------



## Finwens

Hey guys. So, I was playing some BF3 when suddenly my left button lost it feedback...? I mean, it's really sensitive now and doesn't make any noise at all, only if i press harder. I could RMA it, but I live in Brazil and I'd had to send it to the USA, and with christmas here it would take literally four or five months to get my mouse back.

So I don't know what to do, maybe I could fix it myself? Buying another mouse is not an option now, and I don't want to buy a cheap one because compared to the razer, I'd rather use it even with this problem.

It is still wotking, but it's a little annoying and it's clicking just by my finger resting on top of the button.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Finwens*
> 
> Hey guys. So, I was playing some BF3 when suddenly my left button lost it feedback...? I mean, it's really sensitive now and doesn't make any noise at all, only if i press harder. I could RMA it, but I live in Brazil and I'd had to send it to the USA, and with christmas here it would take literally four or five months to get my mouse back.
> So I don't know what to do, maybe I could fix it myself? Buying another mouse is not an option now, and I don't want to buy a cheap one because compared to the razer, I'd rather use it even with this problem.
> It is still wotking, but it's a little annoying and it's clicking just by my finger resting on top of the button.


It sounds like you kinda answered your own question, but you could always use a guide (not sure if someone has posted one on here) to take it apart and determine what's wrong with it. Maybe some dust found it's way in places it had no business in. Can't hurt, just make sure you're careful, as you said buying another mouse isn't an option.


----------



## Finwens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> It sounds like you kinda answered your own question, but you could always use a guide (not sure if someone has posted one on here) to take it apart and determine what's wrong with it. Maybe some dust found it's way in places it had no business in. Can't hurt, just make sure you're careful, as you said buying another mouse isn't an option.


I think I'll leave it this way then. I'm not good with opening this kind of stuff and if I **** it up I'll have to use a cheap mouse.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Finwens*
> 
> I think I'll leave it this way then. I'm not good with opening this kind of stuff and if I **** it up I'll have to use a cheap mouse.


I have the same paranoia when it comes to doing things like that. Maybe you could put something between the button and the bottoming plastic of the button (maybe like a piece of a rubber band?) to provide some resistance, as well as letting you rest your finger on the button. I can't imagine not resting my fingers on the buttons.


----------



## SpykeZ

Does anyone here have a dead Deathadder they don't want? The wheel on mine broke today haha, the small pin that controls the scrolling mechanism gave out. I just need the wheel.


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Does anyone here have a dead Deathadder they don't want? The wheel on mine broke today haha, the small pin that controls the scrolling mechanism gave out. I just need the wheel.


Haha, I have one with exactly the same problem, I'm keeping it though for replacement parts and testing. It's a good old 3G


----------



## SpykeZ

haha ya mines a gen 1, love that thing. It's taken quite some abuse. DOTA 2 pissed me off and well...of all the things that had to break it was the mouse wheel lol!

Anywho, hope someone has a spare wheel ^__^


----------



## SpykeZ

Bump, anyone got a dead Deathadder I can use for parts?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Bump, anyone got a dead Deathadder I can use for parts?


You might just want to put a Wanted thread up for broken DeathAdders. I'm sure not everyone that has one is on this thread, especially if their's is broken.


----------



## SpykeZ

...why didn't I think of that lol


----------



## Razor 116

Is it normal or the left click to become much softer than the right click within a month?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor 116*
> 
> Is it normal or the left click to become much softer than the right click within a month?


Which one do you have? I have the original DA and mine isn't too soft. Same as the right click.


----------



## blahblah112

Good mouse , its a shame about the mwheel bug. But at least it works well and should last a long time


----------



## Razor 116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Which one do you have? I have the original DA and mine isn't too soft. Same as the right click.


I have the 3.5g,the right click is the same as when I got it but the left click has become really soft in just one month :/


----------



## Cape Cod

The Deathadder 3.5 is one of the worst mice I have every used!!!!! No on the fly buttons for Dpi?? Really?? I had to set them in profiles which took a good 3-5 sec to change profiles. Could not use it on my desk it wouldn't track so I had to go pick up a mouse pad. Synapse is very glitchy.
I picked it up because of all the rave reviews. Brought it back 3 days later and picked up the Tiapan <<< Now this is what the Deathadder should have been. Jmo. Could have been a much better mouse for one of he best in the world!


----------



## karod

I own my DA 3.5 for 4 years now.
The left click is slightly softer than the right. But I don't notice it in daily use, I have to pay attention to it to be able to notice it.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cape Cod*
> 
> The Deathadder 3.5 is one of the worst mice I have every used!!!!! No on the fly buttons for Dpi?? Really?? I had to set them in profiles which took a good 3-5 sec to change profiles. Could not use it on my desk it wouldn't track so I had to go pick up a mouse pad. Synapse is very glitchy.
> I picked it up because of all the rave reviews. Brought it back 3 days later and picked up the Tiapan <<< Now this is what the Deathadder should have been. Jmo. Could have been a much better mouse for one of he best in the world!


Really? So it's a terrible mouse because of a feature that it's really not natively built for? Good logic.

The DeathAdder is a mouse that is simply cut and dry for the FPS genre. Of course you can use it for other things, but honestly, if you want 'on-the-fly' DPI crap, then buy a Logitech MX518, G400, etc.


----------



## Razor 116

Never really wanted on-the-fly dpi changing, don't see the point personally. I use 1800 dpi all the time. Its marketed for snipers quite a lot but for me I'd rather have a flat dpi across the board for all weapons in a fps game.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Really? So it's a terrible mouse because of a feature that it's really not natively built for? Good logic.
> The DeathAdder is a mouse that is simply cut and dry for the FPS genre. Of course you can use it for other things, but honestly, if you want 'on-the-fly' DPI crap, then buy a Logitech MX518, G400, etc.


Well in his defense, the deathadder was an amazing mouse but the 3.5G edition used a piece of crap sensor that most everyone hated.


----------



## Skylit

You're misinformed spewing nonsense.


----------



## RegalX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Well in his defense, the deathadder was an amazing mouse but the 3.5G edition used a piece of crap sensor that most everyone hated.


Im not trying to be rude or anything but you do know that the DA 3.5 tracks very well on all its settings even though the 3500 dpi setting does have low tracking speed right?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Well in his defense, the deathadder was an amazing mouse but the 3.5G edition used a piece of crap sensor that most everyone hated.


Yet still not the point of which I pointed out.


----------



## Cape Cod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Really? So it's a terrible mouse because of a feature that it's really not natively built for? Good logic.
> The DeathAdder is a mouse that is simply cut and dry for the FPS genre. Of course you can use it for other things, but honestly, if you want 'on-the-fly' DPI crap, then buy a Logitech MX518, G400, etc.


This is JMO don't get your panties in a bunch because your a die hard Deathadder fanboy. I at least gave it a shot and didn't like it.

Coming from a g5 then the g500 for the same money they have many more features than the Deathadder and the programming is not nearly as glitchy.
So the Deathadder is for FPS well it's about the worst mouse for that. Does this mean that everyone here that has a Deathadder play's with the same DPI whether there in a tank on BF3
or sniping from across the map. That just sames real dumb to me.
Yes I didn't like the mouse at all because of the lack of features. I don't understand how you don't have on the fly DPI change in a FPS.
Apparently The Deathadder fanboy's have not used other mice.
Sorry for stating my opinion

The Razer Taipan is a much better mouse for a couple of extra bucks.


----------



## Nivity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cape Cod*
> 
> This is JMO don't get your panties in a bunch because your a die hard Deathadder fanboy. I at least gave it a shot and didn't like it.
> Coming from a g5 then the g500 for the same money they have many more features than the Deathadder and the programming is not nearly as glitchy.
> So the Deathadder is for FPS well it's about the worst mouse for that. Does this mean that everyone here that has a Deathadder play's with the same DPI whether there in a tank on BF3
> or sniping from across the map. That just sames real dumb to me.
> Yes I didn't like the mouse at all because of the lack of features. I don't understand how you don't have on the fly DPI change in a FPS.
> Apparently The Deathadder fanboy's have not used other mice.
> Sorry for stating my opinion
> The Razer Taipan is a much better mouse for a couple of extra bucks.


1. Not all FPS is bf where you swap between vehicle and ground. In fps like CS you dont need to change dpi, you can do everything in config anyway if needed.
2. G500 has a worse sensor then DeathAdder.
3. Taipans sensor is pure garbage, so no its not a much better mouse, much worse would be the correct statement.
4. You complain about others when you have no Idea about anything It seems.

And no I'm not a "die hard DA fanboy", not even using a DA atm, and yes I used G500 aswell among the 30+ mice I had.


----------



## karod

Only the main feature of a mouse is worse in the Taipan, the sensor.


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cape Cod*
> 
> This is JMO don't get your panties in a bunch because your a die hard Deathadder fanboy. I at least gave it a shot and didn't like it.
> Coming from a g5 then the g500 for the same money they have many more features than the Deathadder and the programming is not nearly as glitchy.
> So the Deathadder is for FPS well it's about the worst mouse for that. Does this mean that everyone here that has a Deathadder play's with the same DPI whether there in a tank on BF3
> or sniping from across the map. That just sames real dumb to me.
> Yes I didn't like the mouse at all because of the lack of features. I don't understand how you don't have on the fly DPI change in a FPS.
> Apparently The Deathadder fanboy's have not used other mice.
> Sorry for stating my opinion
> The Razer Taipan is a much better mouse for a couple of extra bucks.


IMO too









who does change DPI's when you jump on a vehicle or gets out in BF3 ... who has the speed / patience and most important atention TO that specific moment .... when u are getting shot at with Rockets or need to repair lol

i just cant see it ... (unless its in a super accesible place to click and even with that i would probably forgot to use it)


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cape Cod*
> 
> This is JMO don't get your panties in a bunch because your a die hard Deathadder fanboy. I at least gave it a shot and didn't like it.
> Coming from a g5 then the g500 for the same money they have many more features than the Deathadder and the programming is not nearly as glitchy.
> So the Deathadder is for FPS well it's about the worst mouse for that. Does this mean that everyone here that has a Deathadder play's with the same DPI whether there in a tank on BF3
> or sniping from across the map. That just sames real dumb to me.
> Yes I didn't like the mouse at all because of the lack of features. I don't understand how you don't have on the fly DPI change in a FPS.
> Apparently The Deathadder fanboy's have not used other mice.
> Sorry for stating my opinion
> The Razer Taipan is a much better mouse for a couple of extra bucks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nivity*
> 
> 1. Not all FPS is bf where you swap between vehicle and ground. In fps like CS you dont need to change dpi, you can do everything in config anyway if needed.
> 2. G500 has a worse sensor then DeathAdder.
> 3. Taipans sensor is pure garbage, so no its not a much better mouse, much worse would be the correct statement.
> 4. You complain about others when you have no Idea about anything It seems.
> And no I'm not a "die hard DA fanboy", not even using a DA atm, and yes I used G500 aswell among the 30+ mice I had.


Well he pretty much summed it up^.

When you get into a frenzy of '!!!' and critical grammatical errors, it makes it seem like you're flaming a product. I have nothing against anyone's opinion, but the way you type on the internet is all someone has to base _their_ opinion off of.

I personally have never liked on-the-fly DPI buttons. On my MX518, it was the most annoying feature, IMO. I would have rather bound them to other features, but was unable to. I could see how they might be useful in certain games, but as Nivity said, it's something that you can change within the game config itself. I'm not a die hard DeathAdder fanboy. It's my mouse of choice. It is light, button placement is perfect for my handsize, and it has everything that I need on a mouse. I have personally owned a Logitech MX518 (loved it dearly until I purchased my first DeathAdder), OG Deathadder, Logitech G700 (way too heavy, and too many buttons for my needs), and a BE DeathAdder. I don't have any bias against any type of mouse, as I honestly have no personal gain in doing so. Keep calm.


----------



## SpykeZ

Actually, the deathadder DID have on the fly DPI change, at least on the 1st gen, however they put it in a stupid as hell spot....on the bottom of the mouse next to the sensor lol. Ya...cause that's totally convenient...right?


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cape Cod*
> 
> This is JMO don't get your panties in a bunch because your a die hard Deathadder fanboy. I at least gave it a shot and didn't like it.
> Coming from a g5 then the g500 for the same money they have many more features than the Deathadder and the programming is not nearly as glitchy.
> So the Deathadder is for FPS well it's about the worst mouse for that. Does this mean that everyone here that has a Deathadder play's with the same DPI whether there in a tank on BF3
> or sniping from across the map. That just sames real dumb to me.
> Yes I didn't like the mouse at all because of the lack of features. I don't understand how you don't have on the fly DPI change in a FPS.
> Apparently The Deathadder fanboy's have not used other mice.
> Sorry for stating my opinion
> The Razer Taipan is a much better mouse for a couple of extra bucks.


Well, if you don't like the DA that's fine, but IMO switching DPI in game is detrimental to your gameplay, because it affects your muscle memory. And BF3 is the worst example for that as you can set different sensitivities to infantry and vehicles.
The most important part about a mouse for FPS is a good sensor, that's why the DA excels and the taipan or G500 are worse. A good mouse with DPI switch buttons is the G400.


----------



## nlmiller0015

The g500 isnt bad if your using a hard pad i have some friends who hit up to 28 - 35% on assualt rifles with thesemice that people consider bad . Use a gaming mouse that fits your hand you will get good with practice


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> The g500 isnt bad if your using a hard pad i have some friends who hit up to 28 - 35% on assualt rifles with thesemice that people consider bad . Use a gaming mouse that fits your hand you will get good with practice


Well, but that's because BF3 hardly needs a good mouse or twitch aiming reflexes. Show me the stats of those guys with LG or Railgun and then say that G500 is equally good. I played with the G500 in BC2 for a while, on a hard pad. And while I had little to no problems in BC2 my aim in Quake or TF2 was off much more than usual. I switched to a G400 and everything was fine again. The G500 is ok, but the random accel of the ADNS 9500 makes it terrible for games that actually require twitch aim.


----------



## trhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ino.*
> 
> Well, but that's because BF3 hardly needs a good mouse or twitch aiming reflexes. *Show me the stats of those guys with LG or Railgun* and then say that G500 is equally good. I played with the G500 in BC2 for a while, on a hard pad. And while I had little to no problems in BC2 my aim in Quake or TF2 was off much more than usual. I switched to a G400 and everything was fine again. The G500 is ok, but the random accel of the ADNS 9500 makes it terrible for games that actually require twitch aim.


http://www.quakelive.com/#!profile/statistics/k1llsen

Killsen plays with the g9x. Considered by many to have the best RG aim in the world. Ridiculous LG too.

Enigma - G500
http://www.complexitygaming.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2797

I know that post is almost 3 years old but at the time he was the best scout in pro scene.
Some top QW players use laser mice such as the Xai, Sensei and G9x.

Perfect tracking 1:1 mice are better, but you can still reach the top with so called "flawed" mice


----------



## Ino.

Thanks, that's interesting. I remember Enigma, beastly aim. But I always thought he was using the mx518. I was never satisfied with the G500 on the Talent, but I never tried 400 DPI either. K1llsen is even more interesting as his playstyle to me always looks like 100% aim while he is lacking in other disciplines.

Btw: isn't enigma still playing with the mix^ guys?


----------



## Skylit

No clue why TF2 players are using noforce commands that literally do nothing on source engine.


----------



## zulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> You're misinformed spewing nonsense.


Who you flaming on skylit


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> No clue why TF2 players are using noforce commands that literally do nothing on source engine.


I never understood that either, but some of them started it and everybody just kept them in as they did no harm. I'm not sure if they did nothing in the beginning of TF2 as there was no option for raw mouse input back then.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ino.*
> 
> I never understood that either, but some of them started it and everybody just kept them in as they did no harm. I'm not sure if they did nothing in the beginning of TF2 as there was no option for raw mouse input back then.


Even on CSS they did nothing. The engine does not trigger the EPP curve as it did on goldsrc.

You technically only needed to disable EPP on source prior to raw input. Mousefix was not needed (unlike 1.6, quake 2 etc..).


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zulk*
> 
> Who you flaming on skylit


The post that was above mine.

The hardware and capabilities didn't change one bit moving from late 3G > 3.5G. 3.5G had a rough launch (ie cursor ripple), though it was corrected by later 2.3x FW.

The only other thing you can complain about is higher lift off detection (fw), but that shouldn't even be considered a flaw.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trhead*
> 
> http://www.quakelive.com/#!profile/statistics/k1llsen
> Killsen plays with the g9x. Considered by many to have the best RG aim in the world. Ridiculous LG too.
> Enigma - G500
> http://www.complexitygaming.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2797
> I know that post is almost 3 years old but at the time he was the best scout in pro scene.
> Some top QW players use laser mice such as the Xai, Sensei and G9x.
> Perfect tracking 1:1 mice are better, but you can still reach the top with so called "flawed" mice


And I think there we can all credit that towards player skill. One of those things that let's you say "must be user error"







.


----------



## Darylrese

I currently own a DiamondBack 3G and although its a great mouse, its getting on a bit at 4 years old! The rubber coating has almost totally gone!

Should i uograde to a DeathAdder Respawn as i can pick one up for £29.99 or not bother?


----------



## 8800Gamer

I'm considering buying a mouse for my new pc. I find the shape of the IE 3.0 comfier and more natural, I used to use logitech G5, g500, mx518 then g400 but I find them uncomfortable now with the silly indentation for your finger. Which is better mouse for a new desk I want to get with a kb tray... The razer abyssus, the razer deathadder or the razer deathadder black edition????

Also what is the stock dpi and polling rate it comes with? Is it good for Starcraft 2 and FPS/RTS and all those type of games?

I used to own the razer DA it was nice but the sides were glossy plastic which picked up all the sweatyness from my hands


----------



## mousefan

I expect one Razer Orbweaver and a Deathadder 2013 in the next days or weeks. don't know how long the order needs to reach me.

One thing is clear, I won't install any Synapsestuff just to ruin my new Hardware or just to make unstable or not working experiences.

And the best is, that's not neccessary anyway. I know the dafult dpi (1800) and the default pollingrate (500hz) of the DA 2013 and it's no problem at all to have exactly the same 40 cm per 360 Sense in CSGO I was used to before. Those default settings should be the best and most stable anyway.

There are a few calculators in the net and it's pretty easy to reach that sense even with 1800 dpi and a ingamesense you can't set below 1.
So I will just halve the windows (from 6/11 to 4/11) sense and enjoy both units out of the box without the need of any drivers.

I even heard some had weird probs with their keyboards after installing and using synapse. There is just no need for me to use Synapse if I can arrange everything I need without it.

Smart isn't it? ^^

And for the new announced and stocked Razer Orbweaver (new mechanical Keypad) I won't need any Drivers anyway. I won't use macros or something like that.

Also used the Nostromo without drivers. it's not a problem at all.

It's always better to get used to a non-driver use anyway. For the Case I would go on Lans with my equip I know their will be no Synapse stuff standing in my way or what I would have to bank on.


----------



## brgil

You can set sensitivity on CSGO below 1, just type in console "sensitivity *value*", I used 0.4 with a 3.5g Deathadder @1800dpi


----------



## mousefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brgil*
> 
> You can set sensitivity on CSGO below 1, just type in console "sensitivity *value*", I used 0.4 with a 3.5g Deathadder @1800dpi


You are sure? I knew this was possible in Source, but i looked at the Mousesettings in the Menues, and the Mousebar wasn't adjustable below 1. But I am familiar with those Configs and know many of the Commands. thx


----------



## brgil

Yeah, I'm sure. You don't even need to do that in console, on the sensitivity adjustment bar, just press the number next to it and type whatever sensitivity you want and it will work, even below 1


----------



## maikon

so i just RMA my deathadder 2013 due to skipping issue. Somethign that may worry me a bit is that im using hyperglide mousefeet. Do you think that will void my warranty because i replaced the stock mouse feet?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maikon*
> 
> so i just RMA my deathadder 2013 due to skipping issue. Somethign that may worry me a bit is that im using hyperglide mousefeet. Do you think that will void my warranty because i replaced the stock mouse feet?


I've never heard of a warranty being denied from feet replacements. Only if you take apart the mouse or return it physically damaged does that void the warranty.


----------



## Ice009

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maikon*
> 
> so i just RMA my deathadder 2013 due to skipping issue. Somethign that may worry me a bit is that im using hyperglide mousefeet. Do you think that will void my warranty because i replaced the stock mouse feet?


Can you please explain this skipping issue to me a bit more? My store has now got the mouse in stock for $69. Should I go ahead and buy it? I really wanted to get it a few months ago, but some of these issues are now putting me off it.


----------



## weirdek

Just got myself the Deathadder BE, wanted to get the 2013 one but it's sold out here








I'm not gonna comment on the sensor because it's perfect as you guys know, but is it just me or does anyone else have a mushy right click and a weird scroll wheel? The Xai had great tactile feel to the clicks and the scroll wheel was great when I got it (it kinda broke after about a year and a half of use) but on the DA BE when I push the scroll wheel to the right it makes a click and when I push it on the left it hits the plastic and wobbles. It feels like it's gonna break soon, although I'm not sure if this is normal. I used to have the original DA a long time ago and the build quality seemed superior to the BE. Either they don't make them as they used to or I got a bad one









Also, the feet are too thin and the mouse drags on my Goliathus Control pad. Specifically the bottom of the mouse seems like it doesn't even have the teflon feet while the 2 top feet are fine. I ordered some quality teflon feet from ebay for the LOD and the dragging, but the right click and the scroll wheel still worry me. Maybe I'm just used to the one's that Xai had


----------



## mousefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brgil*
> 
> Yeah, I'm sure. You don't even need to do that in console, on the sensitivity adjustment bar, just press the number next to it and type whatever sensitivity you want and it will work, even below 1


You were wrong. I tested it and you could do that in Source, but you can't do that in the current Version of CSGO.









By the way got the Deathadder 2013 now Guys.

For you natural Righties, this Mouse should make Dreams come true.

Really excellent Quality which feels for sure better than of the 3.5 G.

The Rubbersidegrip are not only a cheap gimmick and more a sensemaking Gripoption. Means really nice to hold and grip.

And the heart of the Mouse the Sensor is a Beast Guys. Not to mention it's the best optical infrared to date.

The Clickfeeling is also different compared to a 3.5 G and even better. Try it and you will see.

The Mainshape-Material ist excellent and grippy.

And all others elements on this Mouse are well thought and just excellent, like the Mousewheeel for example.

I am using it just out of the box with 1800 dpi and 500 hz without having the plan to install synapse.

To make it short, The Deathadder 2013 is superb, just superb.









For those which underestand a lil bit of german.

My Hands on of the Razer Deathadder 2013 and the new Orbweaver.


----------



## karod

Did they just double the dpi of the 3500 version? (would be 7000)
Or what sensor do they use?

But you can't buy the DA 2013, it uses Synapse. You have to boycott it


----------



## Skylit

6400 DPI.

More or less an updated version of the Agilent/Avago architecture used in the previous DAs as well as many mice.


----------



## mousefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Did they just double the dpi of the 3500 version? (would be 7000)
> Or what sensor do they use?


I have read about the sensor model but don't be sure enough. something like the new adns 3988 or similar. It's da real deal without interpolation.

means it's really new new optical which can handle those dpi steps without interpolation. You also see it on it's trackingspeeds even already on the package with 200 ips or 50 g that it's a new model.


----------



## Skylit

Pretty positive there's interpolation ^^

A3090 (or older model) is capable of the same speed limitation give or take...factoring other hardware.


----------



## mousefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Pretty positive there's interpolation ^^
> 
> A3090 (or older model) is capable of the same speed limitation give or take...factoring other hardware.


hm man now I am talking one time about a thing I got no clue about and skylit says I am wrong. XD

I just guessed it to be honest.

but this mouse is excellent.

if you are familiar with those intelli 3.0, zowie ec1 evo Shapes or ofcourse the deathadder Shape it's your mouse.

For a mouselover, there is no discussion needed. It would be like being overdosed not testing this fine unit. XD

I mean it's the best Deathadder to date. if you loved the old, get the new one if you need a new mouse. it's simple as that. ^^


----------



## mousefan

Especially the new Quality Feeling of the 2013 and the great Tracking will totally please you.

But you shouldn't bet your cards on a stable working synapse and better considering to use it as I do out of the box without any drivers if you don't wanna make a bad Surprise Experience.

lowering the windowssense is no problem at all in terms of tracking quality. that's what I know for sure, Skylit would tell you the same.

1800dpi and 500 hz pollingrate are default.

right now I am using it with windows 4/11 which halves the sense from 1800 to 900 dpi and I use a ingamesense of 1.15. It's about 40 cm for 360 degree.

You could even lower the windowssense more than me and halve it again to 450 dpi for example.

it's no problem at all.

I am using it for Counter Strike Global Offensive by the way.

500 hz pollingrate are totally ok and enough by the way. I used the same rate with my old intelli as many pros doing it, over motnhs and aimed like a young professional with it.


----------



## karod

Thx Skylit.

For the sensor: i wouldn't need more dpi (i'm fine with 800).
But those new rubber sides are really nice, i guess.

I place my thumb all the time on the backward half of the back button. That rubber sits right there.

But only because of the rubber I wont buy a new mouse. Especially if it comes with synapse.


----------



## mousefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Thx Skylit.
> 
> For the sensor: i wouldn't need more dpi (i'm fine with 800).
> But those new rubber sides are really nice, i guess.
> 
> I place my thumb all the time on the backward half of the back button. That rubber sits right there.
> 
> But only because of the rubber I wont buy a new mouse. Especially if it comes with synapse.


yeah and there is a rubber on the opposite side what you also see in my hands on. Believe me, the rubber feels really high quality and well placed.

if you use this mouse like me as a simple plug and play unit and ingnore synapse, you will be absolutely pleased how well build it is and how well it performs on your mousepad.

plus you would never have any problems on a lan.

i wouldn't say it, if it wouldn't be so and I got a huge mouseexperience to differentiate the bad from the good ones.

i bought many of this stuff.


----------



## Skylit

4/11 on windows slider simply skips 1 whole count. The cursor trail is still accurate to original DPI scaling.

Windows sensitivity is only really bad when you go over 6/11 or "1". Positive interpolation distorts the dot per dot trailing.

If your game uses raw input, the above is ignored and forced to the original DPI resolution selected.


----------



## mousefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> 4/11 on windows slider simply skips 1 whole count. The cursor trail is still accurate to original DPI scaling.
> 
> Windows sensitivity is only really bad when you go over 6/11 or "1". Positive interpolation distorts the dot per dot trailing.
> 
> If your game uses raw input, the above is ignored and forced to the original DPI resolution selected.


yeah but i know it from calculators and know it now from personal experience that all it does if you lower it from 6/11 to 4/11 is to halve your mousesense what means it's comparable with a out of the box 1800 dpi mouse as the deathadder works like a 900 dpi one.









The windows sense just works with or like a Mulitplier-System.

those multiplier systems you find in many games and their sensivityoptions also.

it's like the Counter Strike Sensivity. It works with multiplier-principles.


----------



## Skylit

Sensitivity in CS (or engines with a quake background) multiply the default yaw and pitch angle of 0.022. An example would be 0.022 x 2 sensitivity = 0.044.

I'm personally not sure if there's any side effects to scaling with sensitivity opposed to actual yaw and pitch alone. Both ways share a similar outcome regardless when scaled too "high" for a specific resolution value.

Valve had locked the pitch angle in Source (not sure about goldsource), so it's not like it can be used as an alternative solution either.

This is opposed to Quake where you can set sensitivity to 1 and adjust your turning degree by yaw and pitch alone if you so desire. Again, i'm not claiming this to be optimal, but sensitivity of "1" in game is 1:1 with the default 0.022 angle.

Would a sensitivity of "1.5" automatically trigger a 0.033 angle or is there some calculation in between? I don't know. This is kind of a question you need to ask John Carmack about ;o

If I could have it my way, I would delete "sensitivity" and just replace it with simple yaw and pitch slider. Would lead to less overall confusion of "DPI" and what not.

Concluding, windows sensitivity is much different than in game sensitivity, but yes it works on a basic principle of multi.


----------



## end0rphine

Hi guys,

I know some of you who have the deathadder 2013 don't wish to use synapse, hence may have to use a certain sensitivity permanently unless you frequently change windows slider settings before entering into your preferred sensitivity for a given game. Using autohotkey can help change that for you using simple keyboard keys. The deathadder by initial default has 1800 DPI so I will use that in the example. This example should mimic 900 and 450 DPI.

Copy this script into a word processing file such as notepad and save the extension in .ahk and save

Code:



Code:


; GET INTIAL MOUSE SPEED: 
; 0x70 (SPI_GETMOUSESPEED), third parameter is the speed (range is 1-20, 10 is default) 
DllCall("SystemParametersInfo", UInt, 0x70, UInt, 0, UIntP, Mouse_Speed_Orig, UInt, 0)

;Mouse_Speed_Slow := Mouse_Speed_Orig * 0.75 
;Mouse_Speed_Slow := Floor(Mouse_Speed_Slow) 
;Or directly set the speed: 
Mouse_Speed_Slow =6
Return

RAlt:: 
  ; 0x71 (SPI_SETMOUSESPEED), third parameter is the speed (range is 1-20, 10 is default) 
  DllCall("SystemParametersInfo", UInt, 0x70, UInt, 0, UIntP, Mouse_Speed_Now, UInt, 0) 
  If Mouse_Speed_Now =%Mouse_Speed_Orig% 
    DllCall("SystemParametersInfo", UInt, 0x71, UInt, 0, UInt, Mouse_Speed_Slow, UInt, 0) 
  Else 
    DllCall("SystemParametersInfo", UInt, 0x71, UInt, 0, UInt, Mouse_Speed_Orig, UInt, 0) 
Return

The term *RAlt* is the key that is bound for this script to take effect. You can change this to any keyboard/mouse key (see the help file in autohotkey for list of key maps). The line

Code:



Code:


Mouse_Speed_Slow =6

is the minimum value of the windows slider you wish to use. When the key is pressed, the slider is toggled between your current slider position and this set minimum value.

Then download+install autohotkey: http://www.autohotkey.com/
and double click your saved script file.

Code:



Code:


Kudos to these guys. Source: http://www.autohotkey.com/board/topic/8432-script-for-changing-mouse-pointer-speed/

Sorry if this has been posted before.

EDIT: ok some of my descriptions are not quite right. The mouse speed term relates to a different value. I'm looking into it at the moment.

EDIT2: current settings seem to work for mimicing slider position 3 while I have the original set at the fourth. I think that works, but I'm abit confused with the scaling sensitivity (range 1-20 instead of 1-11). If anyone has experience with that section, please inform me.

EDIT3: If the mousespeed at slider 4 is the original value, and that value is multiplied by 0.75, it's likely that the resulting value is something that resembles slider 3. If that's the case, it may be better to use that: simply delete the ";" before the "Mouse_Speed_Slow := Mouse_Speed_Orig * 0.75 " and "Mouse_Speed_Slow := Floor(Mouse_Speed_Slow) " then add a ";" before the line "Mouse_Speed_Slow =6".
Sorry if this looks like rambling.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Hey guys, are the 3.05 rivers still the best for deathadder 3.5? Running Windows 8


----------



## jnk

Just bought a DeathAdder 2013 for such a good price here in my country, first grasp and play wth the mouse and I already feel it's a super upgrade from my Corsair M60. So question is now, should I install Synapse? Are there no drivers only for download?


----------



## Ukkooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hey guys, are the 3.05 rivers still the best for deathadder 3.5? Running Windows 8


Just set the settings you want and then uninstall drivers.

Edit: How does the tracking of the new DA compare to the DA 3.5?


----------



## jnk

Anyway, I went ahead and installed synapse, not really much of a difference without it. The only issues I had so far was synapse freezing randomly, rarely though, and that's about it.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jnk*
> 
> Anyway, I went ahead and installed synapse, not really much of a difference without it. The only issues I had so far was synapse freezing randomly, rarely though, and that's about it.


Is this with the 2013 edition or with 3.5?

Also I bet this has been talked about before but why is there so much hate for the new drivers? I get it's because synaps but what exactly makes it bad? (besides the stuttering of course)


----------



## jnk

I have the deathadder 2013. Not really sure, I am new to the thread, started doing some backreading.


----------



## Scottyyy

Sorry if these have been mentioned but anyone seen one of these before?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-Infrared-gaming-mouse-1800dpi-PC-bang-Edition-/221177793919?pt=Mice&hash=item337f394d7f

No interest in buying it, I just saw it on ebay and thought it looked interesting, assuming it's a genuine product.


----------



## maikon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottyyy*
> 
> Sorry if these have been mentioned but anyone seen one of these before?
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-Infrared-gaming-mouse-1800dpi-PC-bang-Edition-/221177793919?pt=Mice&hash=item337f394d7f
> 
> No interest in buying it, I just saw it on ebay and thought it looked interesting, assuming it's a genuine product.


its just 1800 dpi deathadder on a 2013 shell. But they still have glossy at the sides lol


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maikon*
> 
> its just 1800 dpi deathadder on a 2013 shell. But they still have glossy at the sides lol


Nope, It's an late 3G/3.5G DA mold, with filled sides. Swapped pulsating LED/Wheel.

Internal hardware has been redesigned/changed, focusing on controller. This mouse has a different firmware from the original 3G. Don't expect the same results. Only works w/ Synapse. (100-1800 DPI)

It's legitimate. Meant for South Korean PCbang (Lan cafes).


----------



## scrotelife

Hi guys, I just signed up as I really have something bothering me about the Deathadder. I'll just leave a little story for you to read and thank you if you can help me!

So I was a 518/G400 user and I couldn't be arsed with it breaking on me every 5 weeks and wanted to buy a new mouse. So I thought I'd try the Deathadder and for some reason I bought the black edition (cheaper I guess) anyway I really like the mouse now after getting used to it despite the lift off distance but it's GREAT!

So after about a month I thought let me try the 2013 because I felt the BE was too heavy and after using my brothers 2013 it felt so nice and light. Anyway I have one problem with the 2013; THE MOUSE FEET? my black edition has nice glossy mouse feet that glide along my qck heavy however the 2013 has these dry plastic looking one that have SO much friction on my mousemat it feels like it's just dragging along a bit like when I bought a steelseries KANA that ruined my mousemat with it's sharp ugly mouse feet.

So can anyone tell me why this is? Also where can I buy the same feet as the black edition? Thank you guys


----------



## DavidCS

Well you can try hyperglide mouse feet I use them on every gaming mouse I buy they should have some for the deathadder too


----------



## maikon

i got replacemnet mouse for 2013 version and actually find their stock mouse feet to be more slippery than hyperglides


----------



## scrotelife

I think it could depend on the mousemat too my brother has the razer speed edition and it glides fine you cant feel it, I use it on my qck and literally it feels like sandpaper rubbing against it









However i remember using my brothers one on my mouse mat ages ago and I'm sure it never felt like this, maybe it's a defective batch? Also when I use my brothers one it feels so much lighter than the one I have thats the main reason i bought it but now my one feels just as heave as the black edition :|

are the hyperglides actually proper glides like have you tested them on a cloth mousepad like the qck? can you give me a link


----------



## grandpatzer

My DA 3.5g came with a thin sleeved cable, now it's really stiff.

Is there a way to replace it with a soft plastic usb cable?


----------



## Skylit

You can try de-braiding it, but very risky.

After De-brading, the 3.5G cable is literally the best cable in terms of flex. More so than Zowies or older normal rubberized Deathadders.


----------



## scrotelife

does anyone have any advice for me? and low and behold my deathadder black edition mouse feet are pretty much flush with the mousemat after only a month use


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scrotelife*
> 
> does anyone have any advice for me? and low and behold my deathadder black edition mouse feet are pretty much flush with the mousemat after only a month use


Just toss some hyperglides/corepads/razer replacement feet on top of the originals.

Seriously, it's been said a thousand times before in this thread, including twice specifically to you.


----------



## nlmiller0015

2013 feet are faster than the hyper one


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> 2013 feet are faster than the hyper one


I'd like to see you try to prove that razer's dyed-black teflon is somehow smoother than hyper's identical-minus-dye teflon.

At any rate, it's irrelevant. The quality of the pads is not the issue - the thickness is. The idea is to double up the feet for added thickness, not to replace them with virtually identical ones which will wear down the point that the belly drags again within a month of use.


----------



## xshinox

i don't know if anyone has ever asked this but is it possible to swap the innards of the DA 2013 with the 3500 dpi one? basically so you can use 3G and blue LED. i've seen pics of the innards of the 2013 one and it seems you can swap the blue LED (the glowing one) but the scroll wheel one seems soldered on.


----------



## shedokan

DA with 5 buttons and white light not blue, what version is this? Can it be 1800 version?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shedokan*
> 
> DA with 5 buttons and white light not blue, what version is this? Can it be 1800 version?


sounds like the mac edition. its either 1800 or 3600, i don't remember.


----------



## Vikhr

Mac Edition Deathadder 3g


----------



## shedokan

Was this version good? Perfect control speed lod etc


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shedokan*
> 
> Was this version good? Perfect control speed lod etc


same as the other 3g deathadders. no functional differences.


----------



## ErikAoki

Does anyone know where to find Deathadder 2013 in Vancouver?


----------



## Fuell

Buying a used 3.5G tomorrow for $10. Good deal? Currently using a Storm Xornet and have an unopened M90 that I plan to sell... (I don't need all those freaking buttons, I just have a hard time passing a deal. Another $10 impulse buy







)

Claims its in great shape, and used for 1.5 years. Should the age worry me? Stay away or a good deal? I'm unsure...


----------



## Mackem

Is the Deathadder 2013 much of an improvement over the BE? If so, how much could I get on eBay or something for my BE? Still fully functional, had it for around 7 months, still have the box in pristine condition.


----------



## scrotelife

I heard doubling up mousefeet isn't a good idea, anyone care to explain why? I'm quite picky about stuff affecting my performance in-game (cs)


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scrotelife*
> 
> I heard doubling up mousefeet isn't a good idea, anyone care to explain why? I'm quite picky about stuff affecting my performance in-game (cs)


It will (slightly) lower your effective DPI and on some (very few) surfaces could cause tracking issues.

On the other hand, it will decrease LOD and significantly improve glide - two of the biggest weaknesses of the Deathadder.

In most cases with this particular mouse, the benefits far outweigh the risks - especially since you can just take the second set off if you find you don't like it.


----------



## scrotelife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> It will (slightly) lower your effective DPI and on some (very few) surfaces could cause tracking issues.
> 
> On the other hand, it will decrease LOD and significantly improve glide - two of the biggest weaknesses of the Deathadder.
> 
> In most cases with this particular mouse, the benefits far outweigh the risks - especially since you can just take the second set off if you find you don't like it.


The only DA that I had LOD problem with was the black edition but I got used to that, I find the 2013 LOD to be pretty low I mean I can't really tell the difference between this LOD and my zowie ec1 evo

thank you for the tips though! Do you find the Deathadder 2013 clicks a lot more responsive than the BE?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scrotelife*
> 
> The only DA that I had LOD problem with was the black edition but I got used to that, I find the 2013 LOD to be pretty low I mean I can't really tell the difference between this LOD and my zowie ec1 evo
> 
> thank you for the tips though! Do you find the Deathadder 2013 clicks a lot more responsive than the BE?


No , not really. The 2013 is just newer, thus the switches have less wear on them.


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scrotelife*
> 
> The only DA that I had LOD problem with was the black edition but I got used to that, I find the 2013 LOD to be pretty low I mean I can't really tell the difference between this LOD and my zowie ec1 evo


I think a LOD of 2.7mm is ideal with a lens to surface height (with no feet) of 2.3mm. Using mouse feet of nearly 0.2mm for an out of box 2.7mm LOD allows for usage of 0.6mm mouse feet with not much of a performance hit. Obviously using the 0.6mm feet would give you no tracking at 2.1mm for those who like that. Or you could use a red mouse pad to get 2.1mm LOD without the 0.6mm feet.

I think that is what Razer has done with the 2013 DeathAdder. I would have to get one to test, but I don't want to buy one, the BE is enough for me.

Tell BST and Zowie to do the same.


----------



## scrotelife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *popups*
> 
> I think a LOD of 2.7mm is ideal with a lens to surface height (with no feet) of 2.3mm. Using mouse feet of nearly 0.2mm for an out of box 2.7mm LOD allows for usage of 0.6mm mouse feet with not much of a performance hit. Obviously using the 0.6mm feet would give you no tracking at 2.1mm for those who like that. Or you could use a red mouse pad to get 2.1mm LOD without the 0.6mm feet.
> 
> I think that is what Razer has done with the 2013 DeathAdder. I would have to get one to test, but I don't want to buy one, the BE is enough for me.
> 
> Tell BST and Zowie to do the same.


I don't even know what you said xD

And about the clicks I'm not sure if they are the same, I use low sens and swipe quite hard and even when I would swipe a little bit the mouse would click and fire which really bugged me, it seems to have stopped a little bit and I can't remember if this ever happened with my BE


----------



## scrotelife

After using the zowie I must saying having a flatter hump feels a lot nicer, don't you think the DA would be the perfect mouse if it had a lower hump like the zowie?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scrotelife*
> 
> After using the zowie I must saying having a flatter hump feels a lot nicer, don't you think the DA would be the perfect mouse if it had a lower hump like the zowie?


Depends on grip style and hand size really.

As someone with small size hands, I can agree with you when I'm lazy and my grip slips into it's fingertip/palm/lazysloppypawingofthedevice mode, but otherwise no so much.


----------



## strayakent

So my brother's Deathadder 2013 feet has worn out, what feet do most of you guys recommend?

I saw Corepads for $12 and was thinking those.


----------



## Omega215d

I actually prefer the larger hump on the Deathadder than lower/ flatter one on the G400.


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strayakent*
> 
> So my brother's Deathadder 2013 feet has worn out, what feet do most of you guys recommend?
> 
> I saw Corepads for $12 and was thinking those.


How did they wear out so quickly? Does he use a hard pad? Then I'd advise him to switch to a cloth one with the new feet, that way they'll last forever.


----------



## strayakent

He uses an aluminum pad, he has cloth pads but dislikes them due to the sweat stains


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strayakent*
> 
> He uses an aluminum pad, he has cloth pads but dislikes them due to the sweat stains


Hm, I'd rather have that than the loud noise and the abrasion on the mouse feet. To each his own


----------



## strayakent

That's good to know...? That wasn't my question anyway, i am thinking of buying him some Corepad feet. I was wondering if anyone else had any recommendations? Read the threads and saw something about generics branded feet and was wondering where i could find them.

Couldn't find them on ebay.com.au or any other Aussie stores, i'm from Australia


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strayakent*
> 
> That's good to know...? That wasn't my question anyway, i am thinking of buying him come Corepad feet. I was wondering if anyone else had any recommendations? Read the threads and saw something about generics branded feet and was wondering where i could find them.
> 
> Couldn't find them on ebay.com.au or any other Aussie stores, i'm from Australia


Corepads are fine. Exactly the same as hyperglides except for slightly less bowed bottom and squarer sides. If anything, this is better for hard alum pads since it will last a little longer.


----------



## strayakent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Corepads are fine. Exactly the same as hyperglides except for slightly less bowed bottom and squarer sides. If anything, this is better for hard alum pads since it will last a little longer.


Thanks, just purchased some for $12 + free shipping, how's that price?


----------



## Omega215d

So far it seems that the Deathadder 2013 has won me over and the G400 will be going back. The G400 is a great mouse for $30 but it was a bit narrow for my liking, the main buttons a little vague and it needed LGS to run in order to keep my settings. The Spawn really did spoil me and it will be my backup should the build quality on the Deathadder fail me.


----------



## strayakent

So i just noticed something about my bro's DA 2013. His macro buttons (forward click) has a stronger feedback or click than the (backward click). Anyone else have this issue?

Also anyone used these mousefeet before?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hotline-Games-Razer-Deathadder-Mamba-Mouse-Feet-0-18mm-0-5mm-Hurricane-/111008565454?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19d8a048ce sold by Takasta


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strayakent*
> 
> So i just noticed something about my bro's DA 2013. His macro buttons (forward click) has a stronger feedback or click than the (backward click). Anyone else have this issue?
> 
> Also anyone used these mousefeet before?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hotline-Games-Razer-Deathadder-Mamba-Mouse-Feet-0-18mm-0-5mm-Hurricane-/111008565454?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19d8a048ce sold by Takasta


They're all like that, its due to the way those side buttons are anchored to the shell. They both attach to the same point in the back, so the one in the front doesn't need as much force to be depressed and thus the click can be felt easier.

As for the feet, never heard of em


----------



## phyber

does this version have any issues?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-PC-Bang-Edition-1800dpi-Pro-Gaming-Lazer-Mouse-Mice-Box-/111008204736


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phyber*
> 
> does this version have any issues?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-PC-Bang-Edition-1800dpi-Pro-Gaming-Lazer-Mouse-Mice-Box-/111008204736


it has no side buttons and the internals are different. I can't comment on performance.


----------



## maninblue

some photos of pc-bang 1800dpi edition
http://watchmonoblog.blog71.fc2.com/blog-entry-2371.html


----------



## Skylit

Requires synapse.

Internals are slightly different, specifically controller which has been replaced. ( 8 bit Cypress Gen 3> 8 bit Freescale MC9S08, Same as DA4G) Believe its cheaper, though I haven't looked at prices lately (Ignoring factory deals).

Don't expect DA3G performance. Completely different.


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Requires synapse.
> 
> Internals are slightly different, specifically controller which has been replaced. ( 8 bit Cypress Gen 3> 8 bit Freescale MC9S08, Same as DA4G) Believe its cheaper, though I haven't looked at prices lately (Ignoring factory deals).
> 
> Don't expect DA3G performance. Completely different.


Wait, so the 4G controller is inferior? Or did I read that wrong? Anyway, congrats on post #1000


----------



## Skylit

Not like it matters as much. FW quality and knowledge of specific hardware is more important.

Both models are a bit dated, though reference to above point.


----------



## zer0sum

Love my deathadder but need to fix Razer Synapse as I have some mouse profiles setup and linked to various games which all works great, but once I am done gaming I am stuck on the profile that is linked to that game.

I want to drop back to a default profile once I am done gaming and back at the desktop.

Anyone know how to do that?

thanks


----------



## wompwomp

Question about the deathadder 2013: can you turn the razer logo LED off but leave the mouse wheel LED on?


----------



## Arc0s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> Question about the deathadder 2013: can you turn the razer logo LED off but leave the mouse wheel LED on?


Yes.


----------



## shedokan

Is it worth getting the 2013 DA over EC1 (not evo) if I wanna use higher dpi than 500? Smth like 800-1200? Is the DA closer more in feeling to intelli 3.0 or EC? Thx


----------



## .:hybrid:.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zer0sum*
> 
> Love my deathadder but need to fix Razer Synapse as I have some mouse profiles setup and linked to various games which all works great, but once I am done gaming I am stuck on the profile that is linked to that game.
> 
> I want to drop back to a default profile once I am done gaming and back at the desktop.
> 
> Anyone know how to do that?
> 
> thanks


I don't have a razor mouse or synapse, but maybe its possible to link a profile to explorer.exe?


----------



## James N

Allright, so on a lan someone stole my Deathadder 3g (i had it for years and it was like new , never let me down







) .

A store here still has all the models available , 3g, 3.5g , BE , and 4g.

Skylit, would you say i should just go for the 4g or would you say one of the earlier versions? i dont mind using synapse and i don't care about the price. (I was looking forward to BST's mouse , but this could take a while and i need a new mouse now)


----------



## wompwomp

Is the top shell of the deathadder 2013 painted or is it just a raw plastic?


----------



## Arc0s

It is painted with a matte coating, the plastic underneath is transparent.


----------



## Jinto

Anyone have some good mouse pad recommendations for the 2013 DeathAdder? I've been using the smallest version of Razer's own Goliathus Omega S (control) edition but was thinking about some alternatives.


----------



## Omega215d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Anyone have some good mouse pad recommendations for the 2013 DeathAdder? I've been using the smallest version of Razer's own Goliathus Omega S (control) edition but was thinking about some alternatives.


Been using the Sharkoon Darkglider mouse pad which is supposedly nano coated and other junk but it does feel like it's a bit less resistant than my Goliathus Speed. I've also been meaning to try the Mionix Sargas 400 and still waiting for the Razer Megasoma 2. Considering how thin the skates are I will not be trying this mouse out on any of my hard pads. The hardest pad it's been on is the hybrid SteelSeries 5L.


----------



## ShineAnder

Yesterday, i just bought a new deathadder 2013. But It seems that the Synapse 2.0 doesn't detected my mouse at all.

when i open razer synapse 2.0 it says "Please connect a Razer synapse enabled device ".

I have tried changing different usb ports but nothing seems resolved the problem. And my internet is always on.


----------



## Omega215d

I'm assuming the mouse worked without it, yes? Was Synapse already installed before you bought/ plugged in the mouse?

Did you try uninstalling Synapse, restarting Windows without the mouse plugged in and then plugged it in (and preferably a new port), let it get detected by Windows before installing Synapse?


----------



## shedokan

How to keep the logo light on all the time in the DA 2013? It keeps going on off even tho driver says ON


----------



## strayakent

If you mean by it pulsates or "breaths" then you can't change that


----------



## Omega215d

That was an unfortunate omission for those that like the lighting to be steady. I'm glad we have a separate option for the scrollwheel as I prefer keeping that lit. I think it makes the mouse look better.


----------



## dwaynep

anyone have a broken deathadder they're willing to sell? the plastic attached the mouse scroll broke and now my scroll doesnt work anymore. im in need of a replacement if anyone has a broken deathadder to sell to me. i have the 3.5 version


----------



## pez

Really? Isn't that just a driver thing? I would think to keep the light steadily on would have been a definite 'carry-over'. It was on my previous, non-BE DA.


----------



## Omega215d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Really? Isn't that just a driver thing? I would think to keep the light steadily on would have been a definite 'carry-over'. It was on my previous, non-BE DA.


It should be just a driver thing but you never know what goes on in the minds of these companies...


----------



## ShineAnder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omega215d*
> 
> I'm assuming the mouse worked without it, yes? Was Synapse already installed before you bought/ plugged in the mouse?
> 
> Did you try uninstalling Synapse, restarting Windows without the mouse plugged in and then plugged it in (and preferably a new port), let it get detected by Windows before installing Synapse?


thanks for the solution. Actually i installed synapse 2.0 first before the mouse was plugged into the cmputer. It works flawlessly after i reinstall the synapse.

Do i need to calibrate my deathadder with my qck ?


----------



## Omega215d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShineAnder*
> 
> thanks for the solution. Actually i installed synapse 2.0 first before the mouse was plugged into the cmputer. It works flawlessly after i reinstall the synapse.
> 
> Do i need to calibrate my deathadder with my qck ?


I never used the calibration tool since it performs well enough and I'm switching between my SteelSeries 5L, Razer Goliathus Speed and Sharkoon DarkGlider pad.

If you find yourself having some problems with it on the QCK then you could try using the calibration tool.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zer0sum*
> 
> Love my deathadder but need to fix Razer Synapse as I have some mouse profiles setup and linked to various games which all works great, but once I am done gaming I am stuck on the profile that is linked to that game.
> 
> I want to drop back to a default profile once I am done gaming and back at the desktop.
> 
> Anyone know how to do that?
> 
> thanks


I was thinking about that long and hard not too long ago, and now I think I might have figured out a good way to do this.

Just set your preferred web browser to your "desktop" (that is what I call that profile) profile so when you open your browser it will just switch over


----------



## jayfkay

I will be purchasing a 3g 1800 dpi today,
what are the recommended settings to work it on`?
driver yes/ no? 1000/ 500hz? 1800 dpi? 800? 900?
800 dpi possible?


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayfkay*
> 
> I will be purchasing a 3g 1800 dpi today,
> what are the recommended settings to work it on`?
> driver yes/ no? 1000/ 500hz? 1800 dpi? 800? 900?
> 800 dpi possible?


1800 dpi, 500 Hz (1000 is fine too)


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Anyone have some good mouse pad recommendations for the 2013 DeathAdder? I've been using the smallest version of Razer's own Goliathus Omega S (control) edition but was thinking about some alternatives.


I'm using the Razer Manticor and it's pretty great in my opinion. Takes 2 weeks to break in the mouse feet though, and during that time, it's VERY slow. Now, it's about the same speed as my Scarab
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShineAnder*
> 
> thanks for the solution. Actually i installed synapse 2.0 first before the mouse was plugged into the cmputer. It works flawlessly after i reinstall the synapse.
> 
> Do i need to calibrate my deathadder with my qck ?


You need to manually calibrate. Synapse for DA2013 is bugged and will forget every reboot if you pick a Razer mat.


----------



## LoveKnight

Hi all. It has been a long time that I have just visited this forum sometimes and yesterday I received the Razer Deathadder Black Edition that I gave to my friend couple years ago. That mouse has some problems now such as the left button sometimes does not received signal (look like it skips the left click sometimes), the side button has the same problem but worse and the phantom jump (occasionally move the srollwheel up and down) happens sometimes when I use scrollwheel. I sent it to a shop to let them repair for the mouse for me but I just want to ask you guy if I have another old Razer Deathadder can I change or swap the scrollwheels because I think the srollwheels of Black Editions are horrible.

I know that this kind of question maybe was asked before many times but I forgot where







. Thanks very much for reading my post. Have a nice day, guys.


----------



## Wypuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Nope, It's an late 3G/3.5G DA mold, with filled sides. Swapped pulsating LED/Wheel.
> 
> Internal hardware has been redesigned/changed, focusing on controller. This mouse has a different firmware from the original 3G. Don't expect the same results. Only works w/ Synapse. (100-1800 DPI)
> 
> It's legitimate. Meant for South Korean PCbang (Lan cafes).


Can we expect low LOD and no-prediction? Thanks a lot


----------



## Skylit

Lift off is situational to surface material and color. Just don't expect previous 3G results.

Angle Snapping should be removed.


----------



## Wypuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> ...Just don't expect previous 3G results.


not to expect in a better sense or worse? sorry to bother you . I just wanna try a deathadder and dont wanna pay razer ripoff prices.. coming from NEW g400, thanks

p.s. I am a "lowsenser"


----------



## eXultanCe

Hey guys. I've been using DeathAdders for 7 years now and I absolutely love it. Despite my constant desire to purchase new gear, I've managed to stay with them for so long. Gone from the 1800DPI to the 3.5G, and now to the Black Edition.

Recently felt the need to possibly buy new gear and I wanted some opinions. Would you guys recommend upgrading my Black to the new 2013 version? My BE is quite new, not even 8 months old I think and it works fine (mainly wondering if its worth for the new stuff on the 2013. Or possibly recommend to another mouse like a Taipan (or maybe the Krait if anyone has used it?).

Also, what exactly is changing when I change the polling rate? I've always left at 1000. Would leaving at 500 be better? (If it matters, I play at 800DPI, usually 2-3 sensitivity in most games).

Thanks


----------



## shedokan

Id say use 10000hz if you got 120Hz monitor, otherwise keep it at 500

I never owned any razer product before and I must say i was surprised, quality of the mouse feels higher than most brands and performance is excellent as well


----------



## shedokan

Is 400 dpi a native value for the DA 2013? In the driver stages it says 800 so that means anything lower isnt real or w.e?


----------



## Lenory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shedokan*
> 
> Is 400 dpi a native value for the DA 2013? In the driver stages it says 800 so that means anything lower isnt real or w.e?


The only native is 6400 I belive because for some reason all the steps reach up to 200 ips I doubt that razer made mutiple natives I have one and all the cursor movments feels the same no jitter bettween any dpi settings


----------



## avinin1

I wondered whats are the grams diffrents between the DA 3.5G to the DA 4G? On realife, not razer's site please


----------



## HPE1000

My focus was slightly off, but whatever.


Does this crop look better?


----------



## DavidCS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avinin1*
> 
> I wondered whats are the grams diffrents between the DA 3.5G to the DA 4G? On realife, not razer's site please


th The difference is about 5g which isnt really as light as 90g mouse that what I heard I wondering if I should pick one up from best buy but im hearing people saying stuff about the curssor feel smooth or off. Starting to lean to the 3.5g


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXultanCe*
> 
> Hey guys. I've been using DeathAdders for 7 years now and I absolutely love it. Despite my constant desire to purchase new gear, I've managed to stay with them for so long. Gone from the 1800DPI to the 3.5G, and now to the Black Edition.
> 
> Recently felt the need to possibly buy new gear and I wanted some opinions. Would you guys recommend upgrading my Black to the new 2013 version? My BE is quite new, not even 8 months old I think and it works fine (mainly wondering if its worth for the new stuff on the 2013. Or possibly recommend to another mouse like a Taipan (or maybe the Krait if anyone has used it?).
> 
> Also, what exactly is changing when I change the polling rate? I've always left at 1000. Would leaving at 500 be better? (If it matters, I play at 800DPI, usually 2-3 sensitivity in most games).
> 
> Thanks


The 2013 is FAR better than the Black. I just sold my Black.


----------



## Aluc13

I have the original deathadder I like it. Though, this new one intrigues me. Not sure if I should upgrade to it.


----------



## mwl5apv

hey guys, quick question.

I currently have the Razer Goliathus speed edition mouse pad(the thin cloth one) and it seems like its almost time for it get a cleaning. Can I throw it in the washer with my other laundry? How can I safely go about cleaning it without any ill effects on its surface?


----------



## Aluc13

That's a good question. I think it would wear out the cloth though, not sure though.


----------



## Arc0s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> hey guys, quick question.
> 
> I currently have the Razer Goliathus speed edition mouse pad(the thin cloth one) and it seems like its almost time for it get a cleaning. Can I throw it in the washer with my other laundry? How can I safely go about cleaning it without any ill effects on its surface?


I would probably use a soft bristle brush and some hand soap and see if that gets the job done.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arc0s*
> 
> I would probably use a soft bristle brush and some hand soap and see if that gets the job done.


That is what I did, minus the soap. I used a toe scrubber, the little strip with bristles and a handle and set it in the bathtub and put some water on it and scrubbed. God it was gross, brown water for days.


----------



## drBlahMan

I use a soft bristle brush also. I brush of the pad once a week to keep it clean. So far, I've had no reason to use water to clean it.


----------



## HPE1000

I haven't cleaned mine in months, I might need to soon.


----------



## mwl5apv

Double post


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> That's a good question. I think it would wear out the cloth though, not sure though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arc0s*
> 
> I would probably use a soft bristle brush and some hand soap and see if that gets the job done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> That is what I did, minus the soap. I used a toe scrubber, the little strip with bristles and a handle and set it in the bathtub and put some water on it and scrubbed. God it was gross, brown water for days.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> I use a soft bristle brush also. I brush of the pad once a week to keep it clean. So far, I've had no reason to use water to clean it.


Ill give some water and a soft brissle brush a shot and see how it does. It's not super dirty, and looked clean, but I can feel an ever so slight "glaziness" in the spots where my wrists sit the most.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mwl5apv*
> 
> Ill give some water and a soft brissle brush a shot and see how it does. It's not super dirty, and looked clean, but I can feel an ever so slight "glaziness" in the spots where my wrists sit the most.


After you clean it, try giving it a brush down once a week. This will keep the pad clean & will help avoid using water to keep it clean.


----------



## HPE1000

If you put water on it, be prepared to have a towel ready and don't expect to use it for a day or two if you want it dry.


----------



## Zero4549

I wash mine once every few months. Strong pure (non scented, etc) shampoo + scrub with a soft brush in the shower with the water running on it.

In between washes, I blow it off daily with my datavac (along with my keyboard and radiators) and run a lint roller over it once or twice a week.

Been using it for several years, as well as an even older Mantis Control, with no issues on either one.


----------



## Nazo

So I have a quick question. I haven't been keeping up (I first started watching this thread _ages_ ago when people were first complaining about the new drivers) but I'm wondering if any advances have been made since I last really checked. I have the Razor DeathAdder 3.5g which I absolutely love for the most part, but I do absolutely hate those drivers. There are a LOT of things the new drivers do that simply drive me nuts, but I need a custom DPI (1400) to get the results that work for me (it's complicated, but basically I have acceleration disabled in the USB drivers themselves in XP and disable smoothing in games for a basically 1:1 relationship instead of doing like most people do and trying to solve the issue of the acceleration screwing things up by using a lot of smoothing and sensitivity adjustments which, not coincidentally, results in far less accuracy. I even find that I have more control in things like image editors, not just games.) Honestly, what I'd kill for is to see the firmware hacked such that default values for the things the drivers change could be set, thus letting the mouse run driver-less even in *nix and etc (where there's no official support after all...) I'm guessing no one is really willing to do that and eventually these will be forgotten (if they aren't already -- the 3.5g has been considered "old" for a good while now despite being so good and all anyone needs today for some excellent and accurate gaming...) Alternately, has anyone ever come up with any sort of third party driver that supports manual DPI settings? Something lighter and less bulky and messy than the official drivers?


----------



## Tazzzz

Hi guys i have a deathadder 3.5g edition and i got a question. I noticed that the blue light from logo and scroll wheel goes through the lens. I know that the DA has IR led but i want to ask if this light somehow affects tracking characteristics like lift off distance or max tracking speed? thank you


----------



## Abacus1234

I have been using the 2013 Deathadder for a couple of weeks now, and I have to say, it has the best feeling tracking of any mouse I"ve tried. At least on par with the g400. Defintely going to be sticking with this one for a while. Sadly, CM storm doesn't seem to feel like fixing problems with the Recon.


----------



## theo87

I know it has reduced weight compared to 3.5G, is it noticable? Also does m1/m2 feel the same as 3.5G?


----------



## Jakestax

I have solved the death adder sweat issue!!!!



thats a pc fan btw


----------



## HPE1000




----------



## b0z0

I'm thinking about picking up the DA 2013. I normally play CS Go at 400 dpi. I've been hearing horrible things about this Synapse software. Do I just get the mouse settings how I want then Uninstall the software?


----------



## Scorpion667

I plan on getting the Krait 2013 which uses the same sensor as the Da2013. You guys liking this sensor for low sens?


----------



## test user

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up the DA 2013. I normally play CS Go at 400 dpi. I've been hearing horrible things about this Synapse software. Do I just get the mouse settings how I want then Uninstall the software?


For the 99th time, yes.


----------



## b0z0

Sorry but I wasnt about to read through 106 pages just to find a simple answer. Thanks.


----------



## test user

Sure sure, I was thinking more about googling ("deathadder 2013 onboard memory" got me the results instantly), but I don't blame you for asking either


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *test user*
> 
> Sure sure, I was thinking more about googling ("deathadder 2013 onboard memory" got me the results instantly), but I don't blame you for asking either


Rather +Rep someone for the help


----------



## test user

Hah, nothing wrong with that


----------



## splinterize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakestax*
> 
> I have solved the death adder sweat issue!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> thats a pc fan btw


Reminds me of thermaltake.


----------



## test user

^ What the hell man.


----------



## HPE1000

That TT one has got to sound like a turbine..


----------



## pez

For you guys looking at the DA 2013 in the US, Best Buy currently has it for $54.99. Plus whatever your local tax is, of course.


----------



## Tagkaman

Hello!

I just bought a DA 2013, and it feels great. Does this latest generation perform as well as previous generations?


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up the DA 2013. I normally play CS Go at 400 dpi. I've been hearing horrible things about this Synapse software. Do I just get the mouse settings how I want then Uninstall the software?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *test user*
> 
> For the 99th time, yes.


Ummmm, no. The DA2013 does not have onboard memory....?


----------



## Abacus1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GridIroN*
> 
> Ummmm, no. The DA2013 does not have onboard memory....?


Most people are calling the fact that the DA remembers last DPI used and last polling rate to be "onboard memory," when it is really not what is normally called onboard memory.


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abacus1234*
> 
> Most people are calling the fact that the DA remembers last DPI used and last polling rate to be "onboard memory," when it is really not what is normally called onboard memory.


Ugh, that is weird. I thought it defaulted to 1800/500.


----------



## theo87

Which shell is better for sweaty hands, Black Edition or 2013?


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inox*
> 
> Which shell is better for sweaty hands, Black Edition or 2013?


The B.E. is reportedly slippery, yet the 2013 has a textured finished and rubber sides.


----------



## theo87

So I guess 2013 is better option out of all?


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inox*
> 
> So I guess 2013 is better option out of all?


I suppose that its reported "smoothing" might be a concern, so you would need to try it to know?


----------



## Abacus1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GridIroN*
> 
> Ugh, that is weird. I thought it defaulted to 1800/500.


It does default to that when you plug it in for the first time. But if you configure it once with synapse, it stays there. I set mine to 800dpi and 1000hz, and then uninstalled synapse. Now it defaults to that instead when I plug it in. But it can't remember macros and such, just those two things.


----------



## Jakestax

haha that's ridiculous


----------



## GridIroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L4dd*
> 
> The B.E. is reportedly slippery, yet the 2013 has a textured finished and rubber sides.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inox*
> 
> So I guess 2013 is better option out of all?


I don't know why people say this, but having owned both, I don't believe it's true. The black edition felt great, the dorsal section is coated in vinyl rubber. The 2013 is very rough plastic. It feels good too, but I'd take the rubber coated top of the Black over the plastic of the 2013.

That being said the 2013 is a MUCH better mouse. It's noticebly lighter (for me) and tracks better.


----------



## Skylit

Depends on an individuals own biochemistry. The BE and regular gloss version can both be considered slippery.

Personal level, I can't stand the BE. Glossy is the better alternative for me.


----------



## Arc0s

I have dry hands and there was no way for the BE to stay in my hand, it would slip all the time; the 3.5G and the 2013 are fine though. But like skylit said it all depends on the individual.


----------



## Vikhr

Does the 2013 have scraping problems like the previous DA's? Is it also possible to stack hyperglides or is the lift off distance too low now?


----------



## Abacus1234

Never experienced any "scraping problems" on this or any of the deathadders. But there is no difference in the feet this time around.


----------



## theo87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GridIroN*
> 
> I don't know why people say this, but having owned both, I don't believe it's true. The black edition felt great, the dorsal section is coated in vinyl rubber. The 2013 is very rough plastic. It feels good too, but I'd take the rubber coated top of the Black over the plastic of the 2013.
> 
> That being said the 2013 is a MUCH better mouse. It's noticebly lighter (for me) and tracks better.


i would say that top of 3.5G is ok for me, could be better but is ok. It's the glossy sides that drive me nuts however. After intensive FPS session my fingers just slide on this glossy sides.


----------



## Arc0s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vikhr*
> 
> Does the 2013 have scraping problems like the previous DA's? Is it also possible to stack hyperglides or is the lift off distance too low now?


Mine was scraping on my hayate you could feel it wasn't gliding smooth when you applied pressure on it, so I put an extra set of feet on top of the original ones and the glide is perfect also the lod wasn't affected much but I think this will depend on the mousepad.


----------



## Malhoyer

Anyone know how this mice performs on the puretrak talent? i read before an update the mouse was skipping and was wondering if everything is all fixed now? thx


----------



## xxgamxx

Question, but this might have been answered already but does the 2013 da have the same exact mouse feet as the all other DA's?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Arc0s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Question, but this might have been answered already but does the 2013 da have the same exact mouse feet as the all other DA's?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Yes it does and they are thin (at least on mine) the bottom of the actual mouse was scraping against my mouse pad so I had to add an extra set on top of the factory ones.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arc0s*
> 
> Yes it does and they are thin (at least on mine) the bottom of the actual mouse was scraping against my mouse pad so I had to add an extra set on top of the factory ones.


I see. Thanks. They are indeed really thin (just recieved my 2013). Another question, has anyone been able to match their old DA settings (3.5g) with the new one? Honestly feels far more sensitive on the same DPI on the 2013.


----------



## Mycelus

Anyone know how I would go about modding the green LEDs? I wanna replace em with blue but I dont know what kinda LEDs are inside and whatnot.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Did anyone ever had problem running a DA at an USB 3 port?


----------



## Kris3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Did anyone ever had problem running a DA at an USB 3 port?


Mine is plugged into a usb3 port with no problems.


----------



## cipp

I ordered my DA 2013 on Jan 11th. The middle mouse button is now going out it seems.. I sometimes have to smash it down to get a click to register. Also, the scroll wheel is squeaking when I scroll









This is the third DA I've owned. The first one I had for about 2 years and the right click went out (just wouldn't register a click at all). The second DA I replaced when the DA 2013 came out, but the middle mouse click on that mouse too was being weird (which is why I even considered the upgrade).

I'm gonna see if I have to RMA it or if I can open it up without voiding my warranty. Any advice?


----------



## pez

RMA it, TBH. If it's only that old, then it's defective. I've personally never had a problem with either of my two DAs, but maybe I just have some luck







.


----------



## Thunderbringer

Hey guys, what do you guys think about these: description says 1800 *dp*. A DA 3G for that price is rather nice imo:

http://www.heise.de/preisvergleich/razer-deathadder-guild-wars-edition-rz01-00150400-r3m1-a289833.html#ang

http://www.amazon.de/Razer-Deathadder-Infrarot-schnurgebunden-schwarz/dp/B000V9X2TG/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A3UGNTUN5NMLFN

The second link looks legit. I do not want trouble with a fake DA.


----------



## twerk

Guys, DeathAdder 3.5G vs 2013? Price doesn't matter, just which is better? Thanks


----------



## TheNamesQ

Hey guys,

Need some help on clarifying one thing.

I have DA BE and I have a problem with it not running 1000hz when its clearly set in the Razer Synapse software. It tops out @ ~500hz whether its set to 500 or 1000 polling rate, although it changes to 125hz when Its set that way. Tried uninstalling software, drivers multiple times however couldnt get it to work with synapse.

Also tried non-synapse DA drivers - the mouse works at 1000hz from those drivers/software, however I dont like it and DPI steps arent what I need.

Any suggestions, solutions please?


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNamesQ*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Need some help on clarifying one thing.
> 
> I have DA BE and I have a problem with it not running 1000hz when its clearly set in the Razer Synapse software. It tops out @ ~500hz whether its set to 500 or 1000 polling rate, although it changes to 125hz when Its set that way. Tried uninstalling software, drivers multiple times however couldnt get it to work with synapse.
> 
> Also tried non-synapse DA drivers - the mouse works at 1000hz from those drivers/software, however I dont like it and DPI steps arent what I need.
> 
> Any suggestions, solutions please?


Non-Synapse drivers are much better for 3.5G DAs (like the BE)

Just use them and adjust your sensitivity in the driver (does the same thing as changing dpi in Synapse). For example if you want 1600 dpi just set the DA to 1800 dpi and sensitivity slider to 8.5, that's 1530 dpi.

Otherwise just set it to 500 Hz if it works fine on that setting. There isn't much benefit to 1000 Hz anyway.


----------



## Kyoujin

I've had a Death Adder Black Edition for a while now so I thought I'd just chime in with my two bits. The rubbery plastic on my DABE is peeling after only a few months of light use. Cheap. Also, it has a terribly high LOD (QCK+) that is really detrimental for me. The tracking is quite good though...just so long as I don't lift it off the mouse pad.

I can't help but feel a little duped; I don't think I'll be buying another Razer mouse.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyoujin*
> 
> I've had a Death Adder Black Edition for a while now so I thought I'd just chime in with my two bits. The rubbery plastic on my DABE is peeling after only a few months of light use. Cheap. Also, it has a terribly high LOD (QCK+) that is really detrimental for me. The tracking is quite good though...just so long as I don't lift it off the mouse pad.
> 
> I can't help but feel a little duped; I don't think I'll be buying another Razer mouse.


Same here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1410189/razer-deathadder-coating-degrading-is-this-considered-cosmetic-damage/0_20#post_20422067


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyoujin*
> 
> I've had a Death Adder Black Edition for a while now so I thought I'd just chime in with my two bits. The rubbery plastic on my DABE is peeling after only a few months of light use. Cheap. Also, it has a terribly high LOD (QCK+) that is really detrimental for me. The tracking is quite good though...just so long as I don't lift it off the mouse pad.
> 
> I can't help but feel a little duped; I don't think I'll be buying another Razer mouse.


Seems to be a issue with the acid mixture in your sweat. I do not personally have this issue, but I know others who do.

Use the tape fix if you want to lower your LOD.


----------



## Geglamash

Upgraded my 3.5 to a new 2013 edition.
Plugged my mouse into my USB extension, got the drivers, and off I went.
Put my computer to sleep, came back, aaaaand mouse isn't being detected. Says USB device not recognized.
Lovely, had the same issue with my first 3.5, and had to RMA.
Went back to Fry's, and did an exchange.
This second one won't work with the USB extension, but plugged directly into the mobo works fine.

Odd. Love the new grip of the new DA though!


----------



## matt5072

I just disassembled my Deathadder 3.5g and the ribbon cable got disconnected from the bottom pcb. I have a soldering iron, flux, and solder but theres one thing i'm wondering about. On the 10 dots where the ribbon cable was connected, theres little bits of wire still on there, do i have to remove it somehow or can I just leave it? I've been searching everywhere but can't find an answer.


----------



## matt5072

Never mind. Decided to go for it and its now working


----------



## dewexx

What do you guys think about DA 1800 dpi PC bang edition?


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dewexx*
> 
> What do you guys think about DA 1800 dpi PC bang edition?


*Skylit* posted that it was not the same as the original DeathAdder 3G:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1128321/the-deathadder-megathread/950#post_19124209


----------



## dewexx

Yes I saw that, but I want to know what sensor does it use, does it have prediction and stuff like that so if anyone know anything about mouse it would be nice to post it.


----------



## 86JR

Having issues with mine, only part of my system I am not happy with, other than my left floorstander omitting 0 bass and too late to RMA it to Accoustic Energy









http://www.overclock.net/t/1414745/deathadder-black-edition-problems-tweaking-vs-new-mouse/0_100


----------



## risingstars

Just got my Deathadder 2013 today.

Here's some thoughts comparing it to the DA 3g V2,

It feels lighter, noticeably, but not enough to effect game play.

Looks slightly bigger? (i'll try to upload some pictures)

Yes, the right click feels insanely easy to click. Feels a bit loose. But if I recall, I had a similar experience to my 3g when I first got it. I expect the click to stiffen up with time (like my 3g has).

Just plug and play, the LOD feels fairly similar to my 3g.


----------



## pipnasty

Just got a my new Razer Deathadder 2013 (6400dpi)!

I just want to know why is it that the max polling rate is only 500hz? Isn't it supposed to be 1,000hz?

Btw, I just plugged the mouse in the usb, no synapse driver installs or anything.


----------



## RegalX

you need to set it on synapse


----------



## pipnasty

I head installing synapse is really a pain. I'd rather avoid it all together. Is there any other way to increase polling to 1,000 hz without installing synapse? My old deathadder (1800 dpi) defaults at 1,000 hz without any drivers installed (just plug and play).


----------



## pipnasty

Anyway, went ahead and installed the synapse (2.0) and was able to adjust the dpi and polling.

Doesn't seem all that bad, I don't know why so many people are upset with this synapse.

Working good so far! Really enjoying my new mouse








I just set it to 1800 dpi and 1000 hz polling.


----------



## Phillychuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pipnasty*
> 
> Anyway, went ahead and installed the synapse (2.0) and was able to adjust the dpi and polling.
> 
> Doesn't seem all that bad, I don't know why so many people are upset with this synapse.
> 
> Working good so far! Really enjoying my new mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just set it to 1800 dpi and 1000 hz polling.


Features aside, people didn't like Synapse cause it requires you to SIGN in to an online service to use it.


----------



## pipnasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phillychuck*
> 
> Features aside, people didn't like Synapse cause it requires you to SIGN in to an online service to use it.


It does, but only initially. Once you've installed the software, you can set the synapse to "offline mode" and you never have to be online again. I just tried it and the offline mode is retained even if you restart/power off the computer. So, once you go offline, it's forever unless you turn it on again. Anyway, just wanted to share, people might not know.


----------



## Narmo23

Hey guys, recent owner of a 3.5G here.

I noticed a couple days ago that whenever I shut down my computer, the mouse's sensor would still be on. I've tried to search for a way to turn off the powered USBs on my mobo (P8P67 Pro), but couldn't find more info on it.

I'm assuming it wouldn't be okay to let the sensor stay on like that? Been unplugging the mouse whenever I shut down the computer


----------



## ghost2501

nvm


----------



## Snakesoul

Hi there,

A quick question and help







is it possible to save 2 profiles on DABE and keep them (after uninstalling software?)
Thanks in advance


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> A quick question and help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is it possible to save 2 profiles on DABE and keep them (after uninstalling software?)
> Thanks in advance


No. The button on the bottom doesn't do anything without drivers.


----------



## Dhsidh46434




----------



## pez

That was one of my favorite things about the Logitech mouse I had. It was 'front-heavy' rather than 'back-heavy' like the Razer mice. I was unable to use a wireless Logitech mouse for this reason. The DeathAdder is more 'back-heavy', but I've gotten so used to it over the years...still has nothing on the wireless mouse I had.


----------



## Mbalmer

My Deathadder 2013 just died Friday night. The (main) left button stopped working, so it is useless. I purchased it in April of this year. Anyone know how Razer's RMA process is? Was really happy with it, but now not so much....I have been on their website but I haven't had alot of time to put towards starting the process.

Just thought I would let people know that mine didn't even last 5 months.


----------



## nlmiller0015

they should I think they have a 2 year warrinty


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benigngerm*
> 
> I've been using my Deathadder Black for a month. The grip is kind of bad. I'm a low sensitivity player where I have to keep lifting the mouse up; I have to consciously keep a tight grip on the mouse otherwise it keeps slipping from my hands. The 'rubber' texturing on the sides are a joke. I've never had grip issues with any other mouse I've used(mx310, mx510, g400, WMO, and many other generic mice).


Same for me, try the normal DA. The BE always slipped from my fingers and I really don't understand how anyone can get a decent grip on it.


----------



## shedokan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> My Deathadder 2013 just died Friday night. The (main) left button stopped working, so it is useless. I purchased it in April of this year. Anyone know how Razer's RMA process is? Was really happy with it, but now not so much....I have been on their website but I haven't had alot of time to put towards starting the process.
> 
> Just thought I would let people know that mine didn't even last 5 months.


Welcome to the club, exactly the same happened to me. First and last razer product


----------



## popups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shedokan*
> 
> Welcome to the club, exactly the same happened to me. First and last razer product


That's Omron's fault. Can happen to any mouse that uses those switches. Reason why you need to learn to solder.


----------



## shedokan

What switches do the Zowie mices use?


----------



## Skylit

It would be more appropriate to state that all mechanical sub-miniature switches are subject to early failure ^^

If a brand itself is a testament to longevity, Omron isn't exactly in bad shape considering substantial quantity differences spread across multiple outlets.

@ above. Zowie is contracted with Teng Fei electronics or "Huano".


----------



## Dhsidh46434




----------



## granitov

*benigngerm*, I use both palm and semi-palm grip on my mouse, semi-paming it when gaming.


----------



## Zero4549

BE is gor for sweaty hands and humid environments. Glossy "normal" ones are better for dry hands. I have both, and I can say that the BE is definitely a pain in the winter when it is cold and dry, while the "normal" becomes a mess in the hot humid summer months.

The BE doesn't get nearly as grimy though, and you can fix it's dry grip issues by simply running your hand under the sink for half a second every hour or two (which is a lot easier than trying to keep your hands bone dry for the glossy normal editions to have good grip), so overall I'd have to call it the "better" shell.


----------



## nolonger

So my 3.5G Deathadder has been giving me grief. It releases clicks at random times and double-clicks seemingly at random too. Anyone have a fix before I throw this piece of garbage out the window? RMA is impossible since I bought it in Taiwan and am currently residing in Brazil.


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> Anyone have a fix?


Refer to a link in the second option, but do everything according to the guide.

Double-click issue could happen to any mouse with more or less the same probability, if the default actuation force isn't taken into consideration.


----------



## nolonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> Refer to a link in the second option, but do everything according to the guide.
> 
> Double-click issue could happen to any mouse with more or less the same probability, if the default actuation force isn't taken into consideration.


Couldn't get the cover off the switch. Any recommendation for replacement switches?


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> Couldn't get the cover off the switch. Any recommendation for replacement switches?


Try using an exact knife or a scalpel, the cover could be really stiff before first opening (hold the upper part with your finger so it doesn't fly away). Otherwise just find an old/buy a new cheap mouse with desired switch properties and unsolder them from there. Any switch brand would do: Omron, Huano, TTC, etc. The DA switches are labeled as Omron D2FC-F-7N, any version (2M, 5M, 10M) would be similar to the ones in your mouse.


----------



## xtraL

Been searching for an answer to this question but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Deathadder 2013 or 3.5G?


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtraL*
> 
> Been searching for an answer to this question but I can't seem to find it anywhere. Deathadder 2013 or 3.5G?


The 2013 might be better for grip and/or higher C.P.I. because of an anti-jitter ("smoothing") algorithm and 6,400 C.P.I. or less settings; the 2013 weighs a bit less than the other DeathAdders too.
If you might dislike the "smoothing" of the 2013, the previous DeathAdders might be better.

There are other competitive Avago 3090 sensor based mice...


----------



## Mbalmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L4dd*
> 
> The 2013 might be better for grip and/or higher C.P.I. because of an anti-jitter ("smoothing") algorithm and 6,400 C.P.I. or less settings; the 2013 weighs a bit less than the other DeathAdders too.
> If you might dislike the "smoothing" of the 2013, the previous DeathAdders might be better.
> 
> *There are other competitive Avago 3090 sensor based mice..*.


Can you name a few that would be good for a hybrid palm/claw grip for me? My Deathadder recently died and I am thinking about making a switch so I don't have to mess with this in the future. Razer isn't exactly being quick with their response to my RMA questions.

Thanks.


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> Can you name a few that would be good for a hybrid palm/claw grip for me? My Deathadder recently died and I am thinking about making a switch so I don't have to mess with this in the future. Razer isn't exactly being quick with their response to my RMA questions.
> 
> Thanks.


The Roccat Kone Pure and Savu might be good, but they might be too small if you liked the bigger DeathAdder.


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> Can you name a few that would be good for a hybrid palm/claw grip for me? My Deathadder recently died and I am thinking about making a switch so I don't have to mess with this in the future. Razer isn't exactly being quick with their response to my RMA questions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L4dd*
> 
> The Roccat Kone Pure and Savu might be good, but they might be too small if you liked the bigger DeathAdder.


This!


----------



## Mbalmer

I don't like the side buttons on the Savu, so that is out. I am interested in the Kone Pure, but it is laser. So, the age old debate begins, laser of the Kone Pure or optical in the Deathadder. I play FPS 99% of the time....Suggestions?


----------



## Thunderbringer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I don't like the side buttons on the Savu, so that is out. I am interested in the Kone Pure, but it is laser. So, the age old debate begins, laser of the Kone Pure or optical in the Deathadder. I play FPS 99% of the time....Suggestions?


Roccat Kone Pure Optical!









Review


----------



## PUKED

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I don't like the side buttons on the Savu, so that is out. I am interested in the Kone Pure, but it is laser. So, the age old debate begins, laser of the Kone Pure or optical in the Deathadder. I play FPS 99% of the time....Suggestions?


I'd say tale a look at an EC2.

Fair warning though, if you scroll from the front you will hate the scroll wheel if you don't mod it. It's a stupid flaw on an otherwise good mouse.


----------



## Mbalmer

I just looked on Newegg before and I didn't see the opitical one. After some reading and watching Youtube, I am going to order the Pure Kone Optical. If Razer sends me another Deathadder 2013 I will just keep it for backup. I can't run the risk of having something break when BF4 comes out and I am stuck using my cheap Gigabyte M6800. I didn't realize how bad that mouse sucks until I got the Razer.

Going on vacation so when I get back, the mouse will be waiting for me.

Thanks.

EDIT: SORRY FOR BEING OFF TOPIC.


----------



## wholeeo

I recently purchased the DeathAdder Black Edition and really like the mouse except for the 2.0 drivers which I uninstalled last night and how slippery the thing is. Have there been any easy to do mods to this mouse to make it more anti slip? Also, is there any way to map the side buttons without the drivers? Perhaps a 3rd party app.


----------



## RentoN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> I recently purchased the DeathAdder Black Edition and really like the mouse except for the 2.0 drivers which I uninstalled last night and how slippery the thing is. Have there been any easy to do mods to this mouse to make it more anti slip? Also, is there any way to map the side buttons without the drivers? Perhaps a 3rd party app.


I just glued some pices of a old mouse pad with the bottom side up to the sides of the mouse-
You can basically use anything that gives you a good grip.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RentoN*
> 
> I just glued some pices of a old mouse pad with the bottom side up to the sides of the mouse-
> You can basically use anything that gives you a good grip.


Thanks for the reply. I'm going to have to actually return this mouse. The coating on the mouse just doesn't work well for my usually dry hands. I really need to find a mouse that has similar coating to the G500/G700 mice I'm use to.


----------



## Emospence

What DPI does the 2013 come with out of the box?


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emospence*
> 
> What DPI does the 2013 come with out of the box?


It defaults at 1,800 C.P.I. and 500Hz.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm going to have to actually return this mouse. The coating on the mouse just doesn't work well for my usually dry hands. I really need to find a mouse that has similar coating to the G500/G700 mice I'm use to.


Deathadder 2013 should fit your needs better. Has side rubber grips and a different coating that is similar to the G400.


----------



## Snakesoul

Dmaster,
You have so many mices







are you currently using DA 2013?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Dmaster,
> You have so many mices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are you currently using DA 2013?


I am currently using the DA 2013.


----------



## Snakesoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> I am currently using the DA 2013.


Thanks for your reply Dmaster








Do you think it's better than black edition? Already tried a bunch of mice (roccat, zowie, G400, sanded the lip and it's ok..) but i tend to return to DA... But my scroll wheel is starting to get loose, so... if i have to buy a new one, i'm just wondering if it's an decent upgrade...


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Thanks for your reply Dmaster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think it's better than black edition? Already tried a bunch of mice (roccat, zowie, G400, sanded the lip and it's ok..) but i tend to return to DA... But my scroll wheel is starting to get loose, so... if i have to buy a new one, i'm just wondering if it's an decent upgrade...


I personally have no issues with it. I think it's a upgrade over the BE/3.5G to be honest. People mention that the 2013 version has smoothing, but I honestly don't notice it, nor has it effected my play in CS:GO. My stats have gone up in fact using the 2013 instead of the 3.5G.


----------



## General Crumples

After a year and a half, the mouse wheel on my 3.5g Deathadder has stopped working. I think the wheel came off its axis because iit no longer registers scrolling and spins very "smoothly". I'm actually kind of glad it decided to break now because my warranty expires in December

I really liked this mouse but man it gets gross easily, I'm glad Razer has stopped glossing all their stuff. Synapse is horrible though It's getting a little better.

I emailed Razer and requested an RMA. I gave my info and they said that they were forwarding the email to the RMA dept, a little before that I got an email saying a new product had been registered in my name. So far so good.

Maybe if I ask nicely they will give me the 2013 version, a man can dream.


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> I personally have no issues with it. I think it's a upgrade over the BE/3.5G to be honest. People mention that the 2013 version has smoothing, but I honestly don't notice it, nor has it effected my play in CS:GO. My stats have gone up in fact using the 2013 instead of the 3.5G.


What are your monitor's resolution and refresh rate, mousepad, C.P.I., in-game sensitivity, game's (chosen) input method for your mouse, mouse's U.S.B. polling rate, C.P.U., G.P.U., and etc. things effecting your P.C. as a whole's response time?


----------



## Skylit

^Stop worrying bout the little things. I've presented information relating to such topics, though it's more of a mental block if you're consistently concerned. Just as minor accel and angle snapping for some people.

Edit:
Yeah, it sucks and even considered a downgrade to myself and many, but it's one of those things that won't really break your skills after enough time and adjustment is made.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L4dd*
> 
> What are your monitor's resolution and refresh rate, mousepad, C.P.I., in-game sensitivity, game's (chosen) input method for your mouse, mouse's U.S.B. polling rate, C.P.U., G.P.U., and etc. things effecting your P.C. as a whole's response time?


Meet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> ^Stop worrying bout the little things. I've presented information relating to such topics, though it's more of a mental block if you're consistently concerned. Just as minor accel and angle snapping for some people.


You guys are seriously way too worried such minor issues it's ridiculous.

To answer your question though L4dd.

VG248QE 1920 x 1080 @ 144hz, Razer Goliathuses Control, 400 DPI, 2.3, raw input, 500hz, 2600K, GTX 470 NVIDIA 327.23. Think I covered everything


----------



## Emospence

How would the DA 2013 be for fingertip grip for 7.9 inch hands?


----------



## nlmiller0015

that what i been saying the da 2013 tracking is not bad at all but if your looking for a high ips palm grip mouse it actually pretty good


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Meet
> 
> You guys are seriously way too worried such minor issues it's ridiculous.
> 
> To answer your question though L4dd.
> 
> VG248QE 1920 x 1080 @ 144hz, Razer Goliathuses Control, 400 DPI, 2.3, raw input, 500hz, 2600K, GTX 470 NVIDIA 327.23. Think I covered everything


Thank you, I am surprised that you do not notice the reported "smoothing" algorithm that others did since your P.C. seems rather capable and that you use low C.P.I.!


----------



## Skylit

All mice work upon algorithms in which dictate how a cursor moves or tracks. All modern mice have a form of smoothed cursor control to compensate DPI and other things. This isn't limited to Deathadder 2013.

To state "reported "smoothing" algorithm" might signify that this is an issue or problem solely revolving the DA sensor particularly which isn't exactly the case here.

To state a higher degree of smoothing/smoothed and or relative properties makes more sense, though it will generally confuse people who aren't aware of such sensor aspects.

It would be easier from a general aspect to ask if people experience more lag with x mouse vs x. Though, back on track, this varies as I've stated in past post. Be it hardware or subjective feel.

Relative, I play many AAA titles that are controller centric with an Xbox 360 controller on my PC. When I move to console to play exclusives and or titles I cant get on PC, I immediately notice a difference in response. GTA5 for example felt very sluggish at first, though after adapting half way through the game, I had no issue. My brain had adjusted to the set latency of the given game,console etc.


----------



## ole12

Wow. I just came by to see What you guys think about the DeathAdder. 90% of the post is about Broken mouse or complaints. Defently not gonna go for this mouse.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## Emospence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Wow. I just came by to see What you guys think about the DeathAdder. 90% of the post is about Broken mouse or complaints. Defently not gonna go for this mouse.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4


So did I.

Inorite.


----------



## senna89

I bought DA 2013 yesterday.

When i close synapse 2.0 in windows and restart it immediately after do not recognize my deathadder, required to replug the device


----------



## daav1d

On my 3.5G I have 0,5mm skatez made for 1.1/3.0 stacked on stock feet and it's feels good. Now I have the DA 2013 and another set of the same skatez laying around. Can I add them on top of the stock feet or is the LOD on DA 2013 to low? Need to do something cause the bottom of the mouse scrapes the mouse pad and it doesn't feel nice. Just wondering if someone have done that on the new DA.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> On my 3.5G I have 0,5mm skatez made for 1.1/3.0 stacked on stock feet and it's feels good. Now I have the DA 2013 and another set of the same skatez laying around. Can I add them on top of the stock feet or is the LOD on DA 2013 to low? Need to do something cause the bottom of the mouse scrapes the mouse pad and it doesn't feel nice. Just wondering if someone have done that on the new DA.


Don't stack on the 2013 version. I tried it already and the tracking becomes awful.


----------



## Indilinx

Hey guys,

After owning the Deathadder V2 for more than 4 years, the scrollwheel click started acting up.
It would work SOME TIMES.......
just wondering if there is a fix to it. my warranty is long gone and i have no problems opening it up
if theres no fix then i guess im gona have to upgrade to the 2013.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Don't stack on the 2013 version. I tried it already and the tracking becomes awful.


Well I already tried it now and I don't feel any worse tracking







Glide is great now though


----------



## Emospence

Is the 2013 more stable with 500 or 1000hz?


----------



## reddy89

It's stable at both 500/1000hz.


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indilinx*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> After owning the Deathadder V2 for more than 4 years, the scrollwheel click started acting up.
> It would work SOME TIMES.......
> just wondering if there is a fix to it. my warranty is long gone and i have no problems opening it up
> if theres no fix then i guess im gona have to upgrade to the 2013.


If you know how to solder (there's guides in this forum) you can solder in a new switch.


----------



## Forma

I have a 3.5g (left handed). SO which DPI settings do not add interpolation or anything unwanted? I use 800 but am now wondering if i'd be better off using a different value.

Also, how does a game also affect these things. For example, cs:go, i use 2.5 in game. does this affect whether or not I'll get interpolation?


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forma*
> 
> I have a 3.5g (left handed). SO which DPI settings do not add interpolation or anything unwanted? I use 800 but am now wondering if i'd be better off using a different value.
> 
> Also, how does a game also affect these things. For example, cs:go, i use 2.5 in game. does this affect whether or not I'll get interpolation?


1,800 C.P.I. is the best setting for your DeathAdder, and in-game sensitivity with raw input should not add interpolation; correct me if I am wrong.

*Skylit* posted regarding high C.P.I. with low in-game sensitivity and vice versa assuming raw input would be used, so maybe he will expound on this subject...

Also, its U.S.B. polling rate should be more stable at 500Hz versus 1,000Hz; correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## Emospence

Any idea what the default LOD is with the 2013?


----------



## reddy89

I haven't measured but I would say around 2mm on my QcK heavy. Not too low, not too high.


----------



## xxgamxx

So what are you guys go to replacement mouse feet?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> So what are you guys go to replacement mouse feet?


I've been buying these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tiger-Gaming-Razer-Deathadder-Mouse-Feet-0-65mm-/121071213665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item61d154c0f8

These are also good:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hotline-Games-Razer-Deathadder-Mamba-Mouse-Feet-0-18mm-0-5mm-Hurricane-/121120355194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item61d292927e


----------



## Omega215d

I haven't ordered from them yet but planning to in the near future:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10414/pad-174/Corepad_Skatez_Pro_-_Razer_Death_Adder.html?tl=g12c43s418&id=hVqLGPX4


----------



## Zero4549

I generally grab corepads from Amazon with free 2 day shipping.


----------



## Skylit

For the price, the hotline games skates re-sold on ebay are the best bang for buck.


----------



## nlmiller0015

I perfer hyperglidez work wonders on my Qck Heavy


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nlmiller0015*
> 
> I perfer hyperglidez work wonders on my Qck Heavy


Hypers feel nicer for the first week or so, after that I can't really tell the difference between them and corepads, other than the corepads lasting a lot longer before they wear out.

Personally I'll take whichever of the two is cheaper / easier to find, which is usually corepads due to being on amazon prime.


----------



## xxgamxx

I have a set of puretrak gildes from my DA 3.5g but am hesitant to put them on since the stock ones (from my 2013 DA) felt much better. Might have been that they were rather old though...


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> I've been buying these:
> 
> *http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tiger-Gaming-Razer-Deathadder-Mouse-Feet-0-65mm-/121071213665?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item61d154c0f8*
> 
> These are also good:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hotline-Games-Razer-Deathadder-Mamba-Mouse-Feet-0-18mm-0-5mm-Hurricane-/121120355194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item61d292927e


$50 for mouse feet...What's going on there?

What's the difference between those two? Same manufacture but different feet?


----------



## Vikhr

Just keep the stock skates, they're actually pretty good.
I've used the Puretrak HD's and I was not happy with them at all, overrated imo and nothing like Hyperglides or even the stock feet.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> $50 for mouse feet...What's going on there?
> 
> What's the difference between those two? Same manufacture but different feet?


That's really strange. He must have screwed up the pricing recently. They should be 4.99, at least that's how much I've bought them for the last two times I've bought them from him lol.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> That's really strange. He must have screwed up the pricing recently. They should be 4.99, at least that's how much I've bought them for the last two times I've bought them from him lol.


Well if they're that price, and I read they're same OEM as Razer's mouse feet, now I want them more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vikhr*
> 
> Just keep the stock skates, they're actually pretty good.
> I've used the Puretrak HD's and I was not happy with them at all, overrated imo and nothing like Hyperglides or even the stock feet.


I have hte originals, not the HDs which are the new ones right?


----------



## Vikhr

Oh I've never used the normal Puretrak feet so I wouldn't know what those are like, HD's are a bit thicker and made of pure teflon (or ptfe, w/e you want to call it). I think the normal Puretrak skates are supposed to be slower than normal feet.

That's also not the first time I've seen takasta raise the prices on certain items in his store, it could be due to him running low on stock for that particular item. I've gotten some of the Tiger Gaming feet for an Abyssus and they were exactly the same as the stock feet, the packaging is almost identical to the feet that you can buy from Razer themselves.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> $50 for mouse feet...What's going on there?
> 
> What's the difference between those two? Same manufacture but different feet?


I asked him about that a while ago and he said it was because they were sold out, so he set a very high price so no one buy them and then lower the price again when he have them in. If I got it right.


----------



## Kaskadian

Hey guys, I thought I'd ask this here instead of starting a new thread about it. I just bought what was listed as a ''new in box'' deathadder left handed model off of ebay. The seller is US based (doesn't necessarily mean much), but I was able to snag it for $20. Until stumbling upon this and another thread here, I didn't realize how often razer mice are faked.

I haven't received the mouse yet (I will sometime this next week), and perhaps its paranoia but I'm now worried about snagging a $60 mouse for $20. I'm hoping the seller just wanted to get rid of it, and I was lucky to find a left handed model online (not so many leftys) that not many others were looking for. I suppose I won't know for sure until it arrives, but is there anything in particular I should be looking for when this mouse arrives? I'm hoping people wouldn't waste their time making fake left handed models, but well, they fake everything these days.


----------



## sieungau96

So what is the best cloth pad for DA 2013? I currently use DA 2013 + Goliathus Control (largest version). I need a new small cloth pad for portability purpose
QCK vs Goliathus Speed vs Control ???


----------



## nlmiller0015

with my DA 2K13 I like use the QCK heavy Im ordering another one after 4.5 year of use. It has more friction than the speed edition but its much more comfortable than the speed imo.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sieungau96*
> 
> So what is the best cloth pad for DA 2013? I currently use DA 2013 + Goliathus Control (largest version). I need a new small cloth pad for portability purpose
> QCK vs Goliathus Speed vs Control ???


I currently use a Goliathus Control Extended, same pad. Love it with my DA 2K13.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sieungau96*
> 
> So what is the best cloth pad for DA 2013? I currently use DA 2013 + Goliathus Control (largest version). I need a new small cloth pad for portability purpose
> QCK vs Goliathus Speed vs Control ???


I prefer the QcK, love how smooth it is.


----------



## cKwok

Yea I've tried the goliathus control and speed and hate its accuracy. I use 400dpi, and really low ingame sense, perhaps the goliathus control's grooves are too big. I've been using the Qck+ which I love. It has the perfect control. friction, and slow glide from the mousepads that I have tried. will need a new one soon after years of use. Or I could try the artisan Zero


----------



## ronal

I need some help picking the right driver for my DA 3G. Should I use synapse 2.0 or go with the 3.05 driver/1.39 no drift firmware.


----------



## NitrousX

I use an Xtrac Pads Ripper with my DA 2013. My DA tracks great on it just like my previous QcK+.


----------



## r_age

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> I need some help picking the right driver for my DA 3G. Should I use synapse 2.0 or go with the 3.05 driver/1.39 no drift firmware.


legacy 3.05/1.39 ndc easily ftw


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> I need some help picking the right driver for my DA 3G. Should I use synapse 2.0 or go with the 3.05 driver/1.39 no drift firmware.


http://drivers.razersupport.com//index.php?_m=downloads&_a=downloadfile&downloaditemid=625

Use 3.03, 3.05 has a bug where the cursor freezes for some milliseconds every 10s or so.


----------



## Skylit

Freeze bug can be fixed by ending razerhid.exe process. Issue with re-plugging the mouse for some reason.


----------



## xxgamxx

So I ended up buying the Tiger Gaming Mouse feet and wow! I had 2 pairs of puretrak (originals) and did a mini comparison and found out how bad the puretraks are. I can't believe I used them on my DA 3.5g for so long. They felt extremely scratchy and rough on cloth pads that I had to take them off (1 min of use on two different pads and couldn't handle it anymore). Even on a new cloth pad (which I have as a back up) it felt like I was using the mouse on a paper surface. The Tiger skates on the other hand were as smooth as butter on both surfaces (one pure trak talen (used) and a new xtrac pad). All in all, I think I may order some more Tiger Gaming feet for the future because compared to the puretraks, these are extremely thin.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> So I ended up buying the Tiger Gaming Mouse feet and wow! I had 2 pairs of puretrak (originals) and did a mini comparison and found out how bad the puretraks are. I can't believe I used them on my DA 3.5g for so long. They felt extremely scratchy and rough on cloth pads that I had to take them off (1 min of use on two different pads and couldn't handle it anymore). Even on a new cloth pad (which I have as a back up) it felt like I was using the mouse on a paper surface. The Tiger skates on the other hand were as smooth as butter on both surfaces (one pure trak talen (used) and a new xtrac pad). All in all, I think I may order some more Tiger Gaming feet for the future because compared to the puretraks, these are extremely thin.


Did you order the thickest version?


----------



## popups

You are not supposed to use thick mouse feet. It takes the sensor out of the designed lens range and it can decrease CPI by ~20-50.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Did you order the thickest version?


Ordered what I think was the standard? .65m. That was the only thing that ebay vendor had.


----------



## mousefan

The Deathadder 2013 is a extreme Bossmouse. Everything on this Mouse is bosslike if you like the shape. Perfect sensor with solid performing dpi steps and stable pollingrates no matter if 125/500/1000, perfect switches, the best mousewheeel ever and the quality is aswesome. if i use this mouse i do it with a puretrak complexity and this combination is worldclass approved. the rival would have a almost impossible job to beat it so it's better different in keyareas like shapedimensions and going its own way on the market.

But the extra mm of the rival would be welcome. the deathadder is more the perfect ergonomic fingertipsize and shape for my 21 cm long hand and there are hands that are even bigger. my palm always rests on the pad when controlling the deathadder with the right hand. if am controlling it with the left hand (left hand edition) my grip is totally ****ed up cause I tend to grap the lower palmbody with the palm then with my fingers far over the upper mouse1+2 edge cause my armpositioning is just different when playing left handed. but i mainly jsut tend to grip it different because of my lefthanded ambidextrous mousegriphistory. it's a brainthing. ^^


----------



## CaptainBlame

Thinking of switching back to the Deathadder after a long stint with a CM Spawn. Unfortunately I gave my DA 3G V2 to my brother and now I regret it so I have to buy a new one. Is the 2013 version as good? I see it has higher LOD, is there anything else that is noticeably different? Shape, tracking etc.


----------



## Atavax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainBlame*
> 
> Thinking of switching back to the Deathadder after a long stint with a CM Spawn. Unfortunately I gave my DA 3G V2 to my brother and now I regret it so I have to buy a new one. Is the 2013 version as good? I see it has higher LOD, is there anything else that is noticeably different? Shape, tracking etc.


some people are reporting that it has a bit of mouse smoothing. There is also different material, greater grip on the side for example.

curious because i'm thinking of getting a CM Spawn, why are you moving away from it?


----------



## CaptainBlame

Well in my opinion there is no perfect mouse shape, depending on your grip you make a compromises or benefit in different areas. Mouse shape is way more significant than sensor tracking imo.

For me I feel Spawn is a great mouse for accurate sniping, for using guns like rail. The claw shape allows me to make much more intricate aiming compared to palming. However I feel for tracking fast movement using LG/shotgun and close combat rocket fighting, a mouse shape like Deathadder and palm grip is better. Of course this is my experience and everyone is different.

At the moment I'm just getting into Warsow and I feel that having better movement is worth giving up a bit of accuracy. Now I'm not saying people can't be as accurate with Deathadder, I just noticed when I switched from Deathadder to Spawn I was landing at least 5-10% more rails in Quake.

So which Deathadder would be the best purchase at the moment?


----------



## Dhsidh46434




----------



## rauLquirozZ

Hi guys, I bought my DA2013 sometime ago in USA, being from Mexico, there's no way I can RMA it without going back to the states (which happens about every 6 months when I get the chance). So when I had my first troubles with the mouse I had to open it up and fix the switches myself. Now, there's something that's bothering me.
The scroll wheel, it makes a totally different sound when scrolling up than when scrolling down, like, when I scroll down, there's no sound at all, but the other way around, it sounds... I don't know how to describe it, but it's the exact same as in this video:






Now, the sound doesn't bother me that much, what worries me is the idea that this thing is wrong and can make my mouse break up if I don't fix it, or is this a normal thing and it won't have any impact on the life of it.

Thanks.


----------



## pez

As far as I know, all of my DeathAdders have made that sound. That video kinda dramatizes it because I can also hear his PC or room fans just as loud. Accuracy of it is find, but I guess it doesn't bother me. My OG DA is now with a friend and has been going strong for at least 5 years now. The BE that this will be replacing is still going strong. Only thing I noticed is that the oils/sweat of my palm are starting to eat at the finish of the mouse where the base of my palm rests. It feels a bit sandpaper-y now, but other than that, no issues.

However:

Just picked up a DA2013 at Best Buy for $53 (price-matched Amazon.com).

So far the thumb buttons are very improved. Much more clicky and less 'mushy'. I didn't even consider the OG or BE thumb buttons to be mushy, but these actually feel like actually mouse switches. Side grips are very nice additions and the weight decrease is even more welcome. Only time will be the true test, but my initial impressions are great.


----------



## HPE1000

My deathadder makes the same noise as well, I don't think there is anything wrong with it, I have taken apart my DA many times (not because of that sound) and the internals all looked fine.


----------



## Zero4549

None of my 3 Deathadders make the sound. *Shrug*


----------



## Tagkaman

Hey everybody. I'd like to ask a question to you other deathadder owners: where you you put your pinky when you are holding the mouse? I have trouble finding a place for it because there doesn't seem to be enough space on the right side of the mouse for both my ring finger and my pinky.

Also, where is the middle part of your hand (the underside of your knuckles) supposed to be resting on this mouse? For some reason I think I may be holding it wrong even though I have been using it for almost half a year.


----------



## pez

My pinky slightly drags on the mouse pad, but I've come to be so accustomed to it that it actually kinda helps me steady my aim in FPS games. The underside of my knuckles (pinky and ring finger) are what rest on the mouse, whereas before it was spew over to my middle finger because of the BE being slightly 'taller'.

However, the 2013 is shorter and lighter than the BE, and allows for a very easy claw grip...if that's your thing.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My pinky slightly drags on the mouse pad, but I've come to be so accustomed to it that it actually kinda helps me steady my aim in FPS games. The underside of my knuckles (pinky and ring finger) are what rest on the mouse, whereas before it was spew over to my middle finger because of the BE being slightly 'taller'.
> 
> However, the 2013 is shorter and lighter than the BE, and allows for a very easy claw grip...if that's your thing.


They are exactly the same size: 127 mm x 70 mm x 44 mm


----------



## pez

You're right. The texture and color difference make it seem otherwise. The weight difference must be making me crazy







.


----------



## granitov

The wheel rattle sound was present on my DA2013. No, it won't break it, it's just the wheel jumping up due to not being limited in movement from above. To fix: glue something onto upper shell at the point closest to MMB; any other construction would be suitable.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> I need some help picking the right driver for my DA 3G. Should I use synapse 2.0 or go with the 3.05 driver/1.39 no drift firmware.


You shouldn't use the driver for any mouse, especially ones with on-board memory. It's the equivalent of aksing "would you like your video game programmed for your video card, or would you like to use an inefficient API". All the drivers do is either turn every setting into interpolated, or add something like 10-20ms input lag from having an unnecessary DLL intercept movement.


----------



## pez

I actually don't have the software installed for my BlackWidow Ultimate or any of my DeathAdders. Everything has worked like a charm.


----------



## robyk

Does anyone know if all DA 2013's CPI steps are good ? Like how on Kana the higher steps are bad because they're interpolated and you should use lower ones ? I want to use 1000 cpi but i have this feeling that it's not moving as it should.


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

I picked up a Deathadder 2013 during Black Friday sales to replace a 8.5 year old Logitech G5 and I love this thing! Feels more comfortable and somehow more natural despite my small Asian hands. I did have some concerns about Synapse but seeing offline mode killed the concern for now.

I did run into a problem last night where I had to switch mouse pads to get a more "stability" in FPS games. It felt like insane-o mouse acceleration until I switched. I picked up some sort of Corsair plastic from AMD Fan Day and I had to switch to a thin cloth pad from Logitech (same event day cause I was having a great chat with the rep). Did anyone run into this particular problem?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> I picked up a Deathadder 2013 during Black Friday sales to replace a 8.5 year old Logitech G5 and I love this thing! Feels more comfortable and somehow more natural despite my small Asian hands. I did have some concerns about Synapse but seeing offline mode killed the concern for now.
> 
> I did run into a problem last night where I had to switch mouse pads to get a more "stability" in FPS games. It felt like insane-o mouse acceleration until I switched. I picked up some sort of Corsair plastic from AMD Fan Day and I had to switch to a thin cloth pad from Logitech (same event day cause I was having a great chat with the rep). Did anyone run into this particular problem?


Are you running the mouse pad calibration in the Drivers? If so, dont.


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Are you running the mouse pad calibration in the Drivers? If so, dont.


I currently don't; I also checked if mouse acceleration is in drivers and Windows and its off. I'll be doing testing at various DPI's between the Corsair and Logitech pads tonight during my BF 4 and LoL sessions.

FWIW they do have different surface textures despite both being black. I also don't 100% know if I am affected by Win 8.1 mouse acceleration issues.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> I currently don't; I also checked if mouse acceleration is in drivers and Windows and its off. I'll be doing testing at various DPI's between the Corsair and Logitech pads tonight during my BF 4 and LoL sessions.
> 
> FWIW they do have different surface textures despite both being black. I also don't 100% know if I am affected by Win 8.1 mouse acceleration issues.


Ya, if you're on 8.1. Make sure you use Raw Input in games.


----------



## b0z0

Has anyone removed the rubber grips on the side? Thinking about trying it, since the mouse is still hard to grip when my hands sweat.


----------



## RayzTheRoof

I hate my Deathadder because of the delay for using the sensitivty clutch. Too slow for practical gaming uses for me


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RayzTheRoof*
> 
> I hate my Deathadder because of the delay for using the sensitivty clutch. Too slow for practical gaming uses for me


Perhaps I'm just being pedantic and old fashioned here, but I've never understood the desire for "on the fly" DPI adjustment. pretty much every game worth the time it takes to install it has in game sensitivity settings that are adjustable independently for each scenario that you would want adjustments for (zoomed aim, normal aim, ground vehicle movement, vehicle mounted and stationary turret aim, aircraft movement, etc).

Does it not make more sense to properly configure those settings once, rather than fiddle with a dpi button every time you change scenarios and pray you got the right one, and that your mouse's native steps line up nicely with each scenario?

As for switching DPI levels while in a single scenario (ex: switching from one dpi to another while running around with a pistol both times), how can that really help? I've never once said to myself "gee, I need to turn a sharp corner with this shotgun, I should switch to a really high dpi right before I turn and then reduce it back down to something really low as soon as I make the turn so that I can accurately aim at the guy on the other side". I just move my mouse quickly when turning the corner and slower when aiming. Much more consistent, less buttons to press, more focus on what actually needs to get done, and less chance of error.


----------



## pez

My old MX518 had an 'on-the-fly' DPI adjustment but I never used it. I could see it for vehicle sensitivity, but never really found it useful otherwise. That's just me, though. In that situation^, all it would take is one game to NOT have that setting and it would ruin the feature.


----------



## Berserker1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Perhaps I'm just being pedantic and old fashioned here, but I've never understood the desire for "on the fly" DPI adjustment. pretty much every game worth the time it takes to install it has in game sensitivity settings that are adjustable independently for each scenario that you would want adjustments for (zoomed aim, normal aim, ground vehicle movement, vehicle mounted and stationary turret aim, aircraft movement, etc).
> 
> Does it not make more sense to properly configure those settings once, rather than fiddle with a dpi button every time you change scenarios and pray you got the right one, and that your mouse's native steps line up nicely with each scenario?
> 
> As for switching DPI levels while in a single scenario (ex: switching from one dpi to another while running around with a pistol both times), how can that really help? I've never once said to myself "gee, I need to turn a sharp corner with this shotgun, I should switch to a really high dpi right before I turn and then reduce it back down to something really low as soon as I make the turn so that I can accurately aim at the guy on the other side". I just move my mouse quickly when turning the corner and slower when aiming. Much more consistent, less buttons to press, more focus on what actually needs to get done, and less chance of error.


Its just some stupid thing people started doing to justify that "on the fly dpi adjustment" marketing.When in reality its very bad doing this in-game, only ultra high sens casual shooter like bf4 players do this. Low dpi for sniper rifle, high for assault rifles/shotguns.


----------



## CptDanko

Deathadder is nice and smooth like woman. Unlike logitechs which give carpel tunel


----------



## RayzTheRoof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Perhaps I'm just being pedantic and old fashioned here, but I've never understood the desire for "on the fly" DPI adjustment. pretty much every game worth the time it takes to install it has in game sensitivity settings that are adjustable independently for each scenario that you would want adjustments for (zoomed aim, normal aim, ground vehicle movement, vehicle mounted and stationary turret aim, aircraft movement, etc).
> 
> Does it not make more sense to properly configure those settings once, rather than fiddle with a dpi button every time you change scenarios and pray you got the right one, and that your mouse's native steps line up nicely with each scenario?
> 
> As for switching DPI levels while in a single scenario (ex: switching from one dpi to another while running around with a pistol both times), how can that really help? I've never once said to myself "gee, I need to turn a sharp corner with this shotgun, I should switch to a really high dpi right before I turn and then reduce it back down to something really low as soon as I make the turn so that I can accurately aim at the guy on the other side". I just move my mouse quickly when turning the corner and slower when aiming. Much more consistent, less buttons to press, more focus on what actually needs to get done, and less chance of error.


You see, I don't always want that super low sensitivity when I am using a zoomed aim or aiming down the sights. I want the ability to aim at a high sensitivity while scoped in but with the ability to lower it a lot when I need to. I don't want to be limited to a low sensitivity when scoped in ALL the time. I like having the ability to turn sharply and aim at any target I need to quickly, but I also want to be able to lower the dpi when trying to take an accurate shot.


----------



## Lynchie

My black edition has been great for the 10 months ive had it. though unfortunately now the scroll wheel squeaks like crazy


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RayzTheRoof*
> 
> You see, I don't always want that super low sensitivity when I am using a zoomed aim or aiming down the sights. I want the ability to aim at a high sensitivity while scoped in but with the ability to lower it a lot when I need to. I don't want to be limited to a low sensitivity when scoped in ALL the time. I like having the ability to turn sharply and aim at any target I need to quickly, but I also want to be able to lower the dpi when trying to take an accurate shot.


You could perhaps move your arm/wrist at different speeds to get the same effect? I mean, I know its a novel idea and all, but it MIGHT just work!


----------



## RayzTheRoof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> You could perhaps move your arm/wrist at different speeds to get the same effect? I mean, I know its a novel idea and all, but it MIGHT just work!


No need to be rude. Moving my hand at a different speed will have zero effect. No matter how fast I move my hand, the same amount of space moved will result in the same amount of cursor movement. Speed isn't the issue.

Regardless, I want a high sensitivity, but if I scope in, that high sensitivity can make it difficult to get a precise shot because a slight movement in my hand can result in a large crosshair movement. You could say then just to settle for a low sensitivity, but then I would have to pick up my mouse and slide it over when turning corners because a small movement would not be enough to turn myself.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RayzTheRoof*
> 
> No need to be rude. *Moving my hand at a different speed will have zero effect. No matter how fast I move my hand, the same amount of space moved will result in the same amount of cursor movement.* Speed isn't the issue.
> 
> Regardless, I want a *high sensitivity*, but if I scope in, that high sensitivity can make it difficult to get a precise shot because a slight movement in my hand can result in a large crosshair movement. You could say then just to settle for a *low sensitivity*, but then I would have to pick up my mouse and slide it over when turning corners because a small movement would not be enough to turn myself.


Erm... so your mouse just magically stops tracking past a certain distance? The same distance covered in less time means more distance covered in the same time. Unless you're hardcore gaming on a 3 inch mousepad, I fail to see how mouse movement speed would NOT be a factor in on screen cursor movement distance.

Could always just use that elusive _medium_ sensitivity option. You know, somewhere between a 200dpi steel ball mouse and a 30,000dpi quad laser transformer eyeball. Like, say, 1800 or so. Too bad no such mouse exists.


----------



## RayzTheRoof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Erm... so your mouse just magically stops tracking past a certain distance? The same distance covered in less time means more distance covered in the same time. Unless you're hardcore gaming on a 3 inch mousepad, I fail to see how mouse movement speed would NOT be a factor in on screen cursor movement distance.
> 
> Could always just use that elusive _medium_ sensitivity option. You know, somewhere between a 200dpi steel ball mouse and a 30,000dpi quad laser transformer eyeball. Like, say, 1800 or so. Too bad no such mouse exists.


I would much prefer to do a small movement with my mouse, rather than a really fast movement that stretches across my mousepad. I don't understand your logic at all. And I play with 2400dpi, and really precise sniping or aiming can often benefit from quickly lowering that. Once again, I have no idea why you are attacking me and being so rude. It is just a feature I like and want to see perfected. I am sorry if my opinion on how I like to use a mouse bothers you, but there is no need to be a dick about it.


----------



## Lysergix710

My mouse disconnects and reconnects randomly, only for like a sec or two and then catches up to where the movement was at. Its getting quite frustrating.

Its only been since i did a fresh install of win8.1, I tried re installing drivers and reinstalling usb root hubs with no luck. Any ideas ??


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lysergix710*
> 
> My mouse disconnects and reconnects randomly, only for like a sec or two and then catches up to where the movement was at. Its getting quite frustrating.
> 
> Its only been since i did a fresh install of win8.1, I tried re installing drivers and reinstalling usb root hubs with no luck. Any ideas ??


Make sure you're plugged into a USB 2.0 Port.


----------



## fuzzybass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Deathadder is nice and smooth like woman. Unlike logitechs which give carpel tunel


So I'm not the only one who has issues with the shape of Logitech mice, then. They put in all these weird curves and angles on all their mice (G700, G602, G400, etc.), as if to say that's for the sake of "comfort", but in practice, all those weird shapes and sizes just makes for uncomfortable mice.









This is not to say I praise Razer as the greatest mouse manufacturer of the world, though. I absolutely love the shape of their mice (Deathadder and Taipan), but I think their build quality could use some improvement.


----------



## Lysergix710

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Make sure you're plugged into a USB 2.0 Port.


Thanks, seems to be working. Ive only got 3's on the back though, is it possible to change one to usb2 ?


----------



## VindalooJim

Can anyone confirm whether these DA 3.5Gs are fake or not? I am guessing they're are...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-3500dpi-3-5G-USB-Ergonomic-Gaming-Mouse/111185070945?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D286%26meid%3D3185743804738092638%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1048%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D291030403748%26

There has been 131 sold! Yet you can't find them anywhere else...


----------



## daav1d

There is a store in my town that have Deathadder Black Edition in stock. Is these different from regular 3.5 in some way since they got different drivers? Think I heard about higher lod or something. Would be nice to stack up one if modding project come along sometime.


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

After almost a week of gaming I'm really getting used to this mouse. I thought I wouldn't like a actual Razer mouse since I watched all my friends have issues. Something about the mouse's shape is keeping my hands less strained and sweaty, esp in LoL and BF4 where things can get hectic real quick.

I had to uninstall Synapse as that was sometimes causing hardlocks after I log into Windows; not sure what's going on despite it being in offline mode. Anyone had this happen before?


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuzzybass*
> 
> So I'm not the only one who has issues with the shape of Logitech mice, then. They put in all these weird curves and angles on all their mice (G700, G602, G400, etc.), as if to say that's for the sake of "comfort", but in practice, all those weird shapes and sizes just makes for uncomfortable mice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not to say I praise Razer as the greatest mouse manufacturer of the world, though. I absolutely love the shape of their mice (Deathadder and Taipan), but I think their build quality could use some improvement.


Its not the shape of logitechs that bothered me it was the stiffness of buttons. My fingers would literally hurt after long sessions


----------



## pez

The most sensitive switches I've used on a mouse to date are the Steelseries Kinzu mouse' I have. The rear thumb button on the 2013 DeathAdder is noticeably more sensitive before which is actually very nice.


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

A question for DA owners, are these fake or real (price wise they look like fakes, but you never know):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200854298263?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-2013-6400dpi-4G-Optical-Gaming-Wired-USB-Mouse/121231222917?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D3252717303034587748%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D200854298263%26

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Skylit

First one is Korean model made for Lan Cafe. Does not have side buttons and pricing is bumped a little for resale.

2nd one uses official pictures and is priced very very low. I wouldn't bother risking it. Fake 4G's were quick to market.


----------



## viowastaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> First one is Korean model made for Lan Cafe. Does not have side buttons and pricing is bumped a little for resale.
> 
> 2nd one uses official pictures and is priced very very low. I wouldn't bother risking it. Fake 4G's were quick to market.


On one end I agree with you, but look at that sellers feedback. All he sells is:
The deathadder 4g,
Two abyussus mice
One Razer Naga
and a single mouse pad.

Yet he has virtually no negative feedback.

If I needed any of those mice I may have considered rolling the dice. If worst comes to worst and it is indeed a fake, you could always just return it to the seller as per paypal/ebay policy.


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

I meant to buy it as a gift, as I personally am not that into razer mice. Besides that I'm quite happy with my current mice (won't troll which in respect to DA owners).

Is the sensor on the first one the same as on a regular DA 1800, or is it a different beast also? I ask because it's more feasible that the first one might be genuine....


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viowastaken*
> 
> On one end I agree with you, but look at that sellers feedback. All he sells is:
> The deathadder 4g,
> Two abyussus mice
> One Razer Naga
> and a single mouse pad.
> 
> Yet he has virtually no negative feedback.
> 
> If I needed any of those mice I may have considered rolling the dice. If worst comes to worst and it is indeed a fake, you could always just return it to the seller as per paypal/ebay policy.


At that price, paying return from US (example) would cost as high or higher than actual product cost. I'll also extend to mention that feedback might not be a good indication of legitimacy.

I've personally ordered a fake product from an ebay seller with the exact same setup a couple years back, including 99.x% rating with over 1000 related sales.

I suppose it depends who you're buying from, but please understand a DA4G at that price is much lower than you can actually buy in domestic china outlets.

In my case, it was more along the lines of normal exchange rate, which is why I was shocked to find I had gotten a fake.

tl;dr. Just a warning. Buy at your own risk.


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obi.van.kenobi*
> 
> I meant to buy it as a gift, as I personally am not that into razer mice. Besides that I'm quite happy with my current mice (won't troll which in respect to DA owners).
> 
> Is the sensor on the first one the same as on a regular DA 1800, or is it a different beast also? I ask because it's more feasible that the first one might be genuine....


Same sensor, different HW components and FW.

Completely different mouse from an original 3G. I would say it's genuine, I mean whos going to fake a stripped variation of a popular mouse?









Pricing listed is average.


----------



## VindalooJim

If it seems too good to be true, it usually is.


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Same sensor, different HW components and FW.
> 
> Completely different mouse from an original 3G. I would say it's genuine, I mean whos going to fake a stripped variation of a popular mouse?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pricing listed is average.


Thanks, all I needed to know...

p.s. I shouldn't have said I'm happy with my mouse, because it became cursed (mouse button 2 stopped working).


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viowastaken*
> 
> On one end I agree with you, but look at that sellers feedback. All he sells is:
> The deathadder 4g,
> Two abyussus mice
> One Razer Naga
> and a single mouse pad.
> 
> Yet he has virtually no negative feedback.
> 
> If I needed any of those mice I may have considered rolling the dice. If worst comes to worst and it is indeed a fake, you could always just return it to the seller as per paypal/ebay policy.


While that may be true...you might be hard pressed to find someone who paid around 30% of the retail price and got 90% of the functionality for the mouse they really wanted.


----------



## justnvc

Can someone confirm the 3.02 / 3.05 deathadder 3.5g drivers work with Windows 8.1? Thanks


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justnvc*
> 
> Can someone confirm the 3.02 / 3.05 deathadder 3.5g drivers work with Windows 8.1? Thanks


Would also like to know this...


----------



## Thyr4n

Hi guys,

I have always used Razer mice so I am used to the easy clicking. I like that the drag is very low.

Now I am change my Imperator (1. Gen) against a Deathadder model.
I ordered two DAs, the 2013 and the black edition.

The sensor of the black edition is very accurate but the buttons are strange for my Razer experience.
The left button is different to the right (this seems to be normal, because this is the same on 2013),
but the left button is stiff to press. It is almost so stiff like on a Logitech MX500 etc. On the 2013 both buttons are easy to press (like on my Imperator).

Is this normal because of the coating/other plastic?

I know that I can change the black against the DA 3.5G, but the black edition was a lot cheaper.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thyr4n*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have always used Razer mice so I am used to the easy clicking. I like that the drag is very low.
> 
> Now I am change my Imperator (1. Gen) against a Deathadder model.
> I ordered two DAs, the 2013 and the black edition.
> 
> The sensor of the black edition is very accurate but the buttons are strange for my Razer experience.
> The left button is different to the right (this seems to be normal, because this is the same on 2013),
> but the left button is stiff to press. It is almost so stiff like on a Logitech MX500 etc. On the 2013 both buttons are easy to press (like on my Imperator).
> 
> Is this normal because of the coating/other plastic?
> 
> I know that I can change the black against the DA 3.5G, but the black edition was a lot cheaper.


its just the cheap plastic used and the design of the DA 2013.

it's not a mouse like a g400 by Logitech where the left and right click are solid regardless of mouse design.


----------



## Thyr4n

So you have experienced the same stiff left button and its a generell issue with the black edition because of the plastic?

The G400 may have a good sensor and form, but for me the buttons are to stiff.
I used to long Razer mice.


----------



## DavidCS

So Witch DA is accurate at 1800 dpi and has more precision . The 3.5g or the 2013


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidCS*
> 
> So Witch DA is accurate at 1800 dpi and has more precision . The 3.5g or the 2013


Both are good at 1800 DPI but some people notice input lag on 2013/4G. If you can find a 3.5G I would recommend that.


----------



## Syncope

If you get the 3.5, try not to use it with Synapse; 1800 DPI should then be zero interpolated, etc.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syncope*
> 
> If you get the 3.5, try not to use it with Synapse; 1800 DPI should then be zero interpolated, etc.


If he want to use 1800 DPI he doesn't even have to use drivers.


----------



## Syncope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> If he want to use 1800 DPI he doesn't even have to use drivers.


Not using Synapse is resulting in the precise and accurate 1800 DPI step he wants -- that's my point in mentioning it to him.


----------



## VindalooJim

Real of fake?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-3500dpi-3-5G-USB-Ergonomic-Gaming-Mouse-/221285003205?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_JoysticksJoypadsGamepads&hash=item33859d2fc5


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thyr4n*
> 
> So you have experienced the same stiff left button and its a generell issue with the black edition because of the plastic?
> 
> The G400 may have a good sensor and form, but for me the buttons are to stiff.
> I used to long Razer mice.


Never really noticed the difference until you pointed it out, but I have a new 2013, and a Black Edition that I've had for quite some time. Both left-click buttons are stiffer than the right-click buttons.


----------



## justnvc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justnvc*
> 
> Can someone confirm the 3.02 / 3.05 deathadder 3.5g drivers work with Windows 8.1? Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Would also like to know this...


I've just installed Windows 8.1 and my Razer Deathadder 3.02 drivers, they're working just fine! I've only tried games that support Raw Input so far (Quake and TF2).


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Never really noticed the difference until you pointed it out, but I have a new 2013, and a Black Edition that I've had for quite some time. Both left-click buttons are stiffer than the right-click buttons.


also, when you right click and move your finger to the right, do you have the feeling that your mouse button is going to snap off?


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justnvc*
> 
> I've just installed Windows 8.1 and my Razer Deathadder 3.02 drivers, they're working just fine! I've only tried games that support Raw Input so far (Quake and TF2).


Cool. Out of curiosity is there any particular reason you use v3.02 instead of v3.05?


----------



## justnvc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Cool. Out of curiosity is there any particular reason you use v3.02 instead of v3.05?


Sometimes when i would restart start the pc using 3.05 (on windows 7 64bit) my mouse would keep disconnecting every 5-10 seconds, on 3.02 it didn't. The 3.02 drivers also don't install some random process relating to macros, which is a plus i guess!


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justnvc*
> 
> Sometimes when i would restart start the pc using 3.05 (on windows 7 64bit) my mouse would keep disconnecting every 5-10 seconds, on 3.02 it didn't. The 3.02 drivers also don't install some random process relating to macros, which is a plus i guess!


Thanks. You just earned yourself your first +REP!


----------



## justnvc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Thanks. You just earned yourself your first +REP!


<3 You're wecome!

I also bought the Razer Deathadder 2013 on it's launch and had to return it due to a 'weird input lag feeling', I later found out that this feeling was due to the heavy smoothing built in to combat the higher DPI. It's annoying because I do like Synapse 2.0 at its core i.e. being able to run multiple Razer peripherals through it is great, but losing the native 1800 DPI stepping on the Razer Deathadder 3.5G is not a good trade off (1800 DPI on Synapse 2.0 is definitely slightly lower than when using 3.02/3.05). Had 3.02 not worked I was considering a swap to the Zowie EC1 eVo CL, which I didn't particularly want to do given 2300 is such a high value, and 1150 is apparently inferior given it's non-native. That said, I'm still open to trying one!

Anyway, I'm thankful that it all worked out!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> also, when you right click and move your finger to the right, do you have the feeling that your mouse button is going to snap off?


I actually don't notice that on my 2013 or BE. The most that happens on either mouse is the left-click button moves slightly to the left if pushed that way because of the separation in the plastic. Any harder of a press and my finger just slides. I'm also one of the few that has apparently never had any serious issues with any of my Razer products.

I also use a BlackWidow Ultimate OG and 2013 (as of Monday) and I don't use any of the software for either...still no problems







.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I actually don't notice that on my 2013 or BE. The most that happens on either mouse is the left-click button moves slightly to the left if pushed that way because of the separation in the plastic. Any harder of a press and my finger just slides. I'm also one of the few that has apparently never had any serious issues with any of my Razer products.
> 
> I also use a BlackWidow Ultimate OG and 2013 (as of Monday) and I don't use any of the software for either...still no problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah I hear you. The separation in plastic which allows this is the poor design and cheap quality plastic








Also, yes more people complain about products than they do praise it online, except razer is the exception. I'm always amazed seeing a razer fan because it makes me wonder how they got so lucky with working products or accept such poor quality items


----------



## xxgamxx

Anyone elses DA 2013 LEDs stay on after computer shut down? Rather annoying having to turn it off again or disconnecting USB from the back every time it does this.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Anyone elses DA 2013 LEDs stay on after computer shut down? Rather annoying having to turn it off again or disconnecting USB from the back every time it does this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> also, when you right click and move your finger to the right, do you have the feeling that your mouse button is going to snap off?


Mine does this. I just keep mine on. No issues at all.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Anyone elses DA 2013 LEDs stay on after computer shut down? Rather annoying having to turn it off again or disconnecting USB from the back every time it does this.


just another example of why razers products are nowhere near "top of the line" or "quality"


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> just another example of why razers products are nowhere near "top of the line" or "quality"


Happens on quite a few other products actually. Happens on my G400S as well. It's amazing how you continually trash talk Razer products when similar or exact same issues occur on other brands.

Considering this is a Deathadder MegaThread, for Deathadder owners. There's no reason you should even be in this thread if you don't like the product.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Yeah I hear you. The separation in plastic which allows this is the poor design and cheap quality plastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, yes more people complain about products than they do praise it online, except razer is the exception. I'm always amazed seeing a razer fan because it makes me wonder how they got so lucky with working products or accept such poor quality items


I'm not quite sure if you're trying to attack me or not, so I'll leave it at this:

All three versions of my Razer DAs have been great for me, and built like tanks.

Both of my BlackWidow Ultimates have been great for me, and built like tanks.

You appear to not be contributing in any positive manner to this thread.


----------



## Thyr4n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Anyone elses DA 2013 LEDs stay on after computer shut down? Rather annoying having to turn it off again or disconnecting USB from the back every time it does this.


Do you have something in the BIOS like wake through USB devices or something similar on? Or is it a USB port which delivery power even when your system is off to charge smartphones etc?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> just another example of why razers products are nowhere near "top of the line" or "quality"


It is definitely not a Razer issue. I have seen Logitechs mouses with this isse too. Its a BIOS setting.
It belongs not in this thread but Logitech some products have a poor quality and overrated prices. I bought 2x mechanical G710+ keyboards and both has issues like scratches, problems with certain buttons and a crack sound when I use the volume wheel. The support is kind, but need long time to react.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thyr4n*
> 
> Do you have something in the BIOS like wake through USB devices or something similar on? Or is it a USB port which delivery power even when your system is off to charge smartphones etc?
> It is definitely not a Razer issue. I have seen Logitechs mouses with this isse too. Its a BIOS setting.
> It belongs not in this thread but Logitech some products have a poor quality and overrated prices. I bought 2x mechanical G710+ keyboards and both has issues like scratches, problems with certain buttons and a crack sound when I use the volume wheel. The support is kind, but need long time to react.


true, I don't think it compares to the razer keyboard I got with a cherry switch that was flawed in the V, to get a replacement keyboard that the spacebar would get stuck, to get another replacement that would put an extra space every 20-50 characters you typed.

I was told by razer to uninstall and reinstall the software multiple times ( they didn't care ) I had to pay for shipping for their defective keyboards also, until they started telling me to CUT the cord on the back of the board and send them a pic

however, we would be silly to compare razer with Logitech







sure both companies have their pros and cons, but it's silly comparing a company like razer to one like Logitech.
we can have opinions about it, but the track record and statistics is out there on the internet. you can find a lot of information if you look for it.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

I'm glad we can communicate and understand each others point of views.









I can't lay out in one sentence what they have done in general or to one of the products without digging for links from forums, history, and blogs... razer's been known to be as cost effective as they can be (of course every company is)

I have never liked how they don't have a forum, it's easy to run with any sales pitch when community can't give feedback, as much as I would like to "love" their products they never give me a reason to.

maybe this deathadder I own will give me some hope for the future. i'll have to buy the mouseskates from amazon to get a real glide on the mouse though!


----------



## pez

It's too early for me to even make a reasonable comment on any of that.

I've used plenty of different mouse(s) to know what I like. I've probably never used some of the more obscure brands, but I have a good idea of what I like in a mouse. My two previous DeathAdders are still working. My OG DeathAdder which is now close to 4 or 5 years old is still going strong to this day. The first mouse to actually ever give me problems was a Logitech MX518. It doesn't mean it was a bad mouse, rather, it gave out after 3 or 4 years of really intense use.

Since then I made the move to the DA OG and I preferred it. The side buttons were easier to access, the shape was better for me, and I liked the scroll wheel much better. In between all of this time, I've used a couple different MS gaming mouse(s), a few of the new Logitech mouse(s), a Razer Naga, and now recently, a couple Steelseries Kinzu v2s. Out of all of these, my least favorite were the MS mouse(s). Thumb buttons were stiff, the mouse was rather big, and felt quite hollow if you didn't like a certain amount of weighting added to it. However, at the same accord, my brother loved it. This is after him using my Logitech and DA mouse(s).

Everyone has an opinion of what they like, and there's nothing wrong with that. It's not like I'm dragging a bundle of plastic fragments across a mouse pad and calling it the golden child of products. I'm just saying that I like my DA(s), and they work amazingly for me. On the same note, both of my BlackWidow Ultimates have worked amazingly for me. For these two products alone, user preference is a much stronger weight in decision than supposed 'quality' or lack thereof.


----------



## Bboy500

I remember reading back when I was buying a mouse for myself 2 or so years ago that the DeathAdder at that time had the most accurate tracking out of most (All?) gaming mice.

Is my memory off or is the statement above correct? Just want to clear it up for myself since I cant seem to find the info anymore.


----------



## thuNDa

this comes a bit late, but i took camparision pics back then between DA 3G rev2 and rev3.

you can browse this album:



http://imgur.com/olrhX


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> this comes a bit late, but i took camparision pics back then between DA 3G rev2 and rev3.
> 
> you can browse this album:
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/olrhX


Is there anything I can do to reduce the weight on my DA 3.5G? Since i don't want the LED in the logo I could remove it, will not do much difference though.... Was thinking of repaint the top shell so I can make it glossy. Got any tips on how you did? (Saw your moded 3G)


----------



## kurtextrem

I wonder if Razer will release a DeathAdder 2014 any soon?
(2013 was released in december 2012 I think.. and the previous DeathAdder in early 2011)

or just a completely new mouse with a newer sensor?


----------



## VindalooJim

I doubt it, the DA 3G came out in 2006 and lasted 3 years, the DA 3.5G came out in 2009 lasted 3 years also (somebody correct me if I am wrong).

If they did release a new DA it would most definitely retain the 4G sensor and just be a "refresh" like the black edition was for the 3.5G.

Maybe in 2015...


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> Is there anything I can do to reduce the weight on my DA 3.5G? Since i don't want the LED in the logo I could remove it, will not do much difference though.... Was thinking of repaint the top shell so I can make it glossy. Got any tips on how you did? (Saw your moded 3G)


LED for logo isn't even 1g i think, but you can just unplug it, so it's no work to remove it anyways.

i used paint for cars, actual color(VW scirocco green







)+ glossy finish for my green DA.



http://imgur.com/VDJ5N


but in the end i removed it again to get this mouse to weight only 101g.



http://imgur.com/4QHXKZY




http://imgur.com/T4HxTlF


----------



## pez

One thing that they seem to have gotten down is the coating for the palm/finger surfacing for the mouse. The first gen. scratched very easily. The BE I had started to get sandpaper-y at the base/palm area, but this one just has a generally better feeling coat on it.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/T4HxTlF


That poor DA looks like a right old mess


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> LED for logo isn't even 1g i think, but you can just unplug it, so it's no work to remove it anyways.
> 
> i used paint for cars, actual color(VW scirocco green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )+ glossy finish for my green DA.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/VDJ5N
> 
> 
> but in the end i removed it again to get this mouse to weight only 101g.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/4QHXKZY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/T4HxTlF


How much did the painting weight?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> How much did the painting weight?


2-3g maybe.
painting didn't went so smoothly as i wished.









(don't use a primer if you want to paint your mice like this, as the paint is agressive enough, but primer melts that plastic like it's butter







)


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> 2-3g maybe.
> painting didn't went so smoothly as i wished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (don't use a primer if you want to paint your mice like this, as the paint is agressive enough, but primer melts that plastic like it's butter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Haha ok


----------



## justnvc

Using 3.5g on Synapse 2.0 removes native 1800dpi, but 3500dpi is as good as using Legacy drivers correct? What about the original 3g on synapse, since 1800dpi is the max setting, does that mean it's native and as good as using Legacy also?

Thanks!


----------



## VindalooJim

Why would you use synapse with the 3G and 3.5G?

Just use the legacy drivers. Or even better run it driverless.


----------



## killerbeee

I got the v2 and since then i think i m not gonna change it for good. its just the perfect mouse . i was wondering about cahnging to v3 but as i see it wont make any difference


----------



## justnvc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VindalooJim*
> 
> Why would you use synapse with the 3G and 3.5G?
> 
> Just use the legacy drivers. Or even better run it driverless.


if you have more than one razer product you have to use synapse, there's no way to run the mouse from legacy and others from synapse afaik


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Just picked up another mouse, experiencing same issues with the mouse clicks and design









This would probably be the only mice I consider a winner since the Logitech MX518/intellimouse 3.0 days.

I've used a g400 due to being an "improved" version of the mx518, solid design, consistent clicks, and a long lasting device. (I have my decade old mx518 and it works even after the million of clicks )

The thing I am upset about is the grinding of right click of the mouse and the sharp edge on the right click. Two things that were ignored in order to produce a more cost effective mice. Last but not least, if I drop my g400 from 1cm I don't feel much anything shake or rattle, if I do so with my DeathAdder 2013, you can hear and feel everything in the mouse shake and rattle. This is what upsets me most when reading about peoples mouse dying withing a year or two and not knowing why!

Razer really needs a forum, they need to stop dodging positive and negative feedback for their products! If only consumers realized their powers









Overall - great mouse for the price ( if you buy it on sale ) minor cosmetic and performance issues which could easily make this a hands down best mouse per dollar you could buy.


----------



## Lysergix710

Anyone recieve there 2013 with the feet not stuck properly ? Now ive pushed them down but they seem a little uneven.

May have to buy new ones


----------



## pez

Hmmm, does it look like the glue/adhesive is properly put on? That may be a fix...or RMA/exchanging it from where you got it from.


----------



## Zero4549

All my deathadders except for the original (3g, pre revision) have come with the feet barely attached. just press on them firmly and they'll be fine.


----------



## Lysergix710

Yeh i had to press them down pretty hard one was the glue seems a little uneven to be honest. I emailed razer but am just going to buy some extra gliders.. i read someone putting them ontop of the standard ones, would this be a positive in any way or should i just remove the oldies ?

Also is there any way of converting a usb3 to usb2 ? Ive only got usb2 on the front of my computer and cant use usb3 ports for my mouse


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lysergix710*
> 
> Yeh i had to press them down pretty hard one was the glue seems a little uneven to be honest. I emailed razer but am just going to buy some extra gliders.. i read someone putting them ontop of the standard ones, would this be a positive in any way or should i just remove the oldies ?
> 
> Also is there any way of converting a usb3 to usb2 ? Ive only got usb2 on the front of my computer and cant use usb3 ports for my mouse


Stacking is optimal.


----------



## pez

Would help for any LOD issues you might have, too. Though it wouldn't be guaranteed to be noticeable.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lysergix710*
> 
> Yeh i had to press them down pretty hard one was the glue seems a little uneven to be honest. I emailed razer but am just going to buy some extra gliders.. i read someone putting them ontop of the standard ones, would this be a positive in any way or should i just remove the oldies ?
> 
> Also is there any way of converting a usb3 to usb2 ? Ive only got usb2 on the front of my computer and cant use usb3 ports for my mouse


On the 2013 DA I would remove the old and apply thicker mousefeet. The LOD is not as high as on previous versions.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> One thing that they seem to have gotten down is the coating for the palm/finger surfacing for the mouse. The first gen. scratched very easily. The BE I had started to get sandpaper-y at the base/palm area, but this one just has a generally better feeling coat on it.


THANK YOU, that is exactly what happened to my black edition, nobody wanted to agree with me when I said it happened. I had to end up sanding off the coating to just plain plastic.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> THANK YOU, that is exactly what happened to my black edition, nobody wanted to agree with me when I said it happened. I had to end up sanding off the coating to just plain plastic.


Haha yep. I'm considering doing a light sanding to see if I can get it down to being a bit smooth again. Did you try this? Or did you just go straight into sanding with a lower grit? I've got some 2k grit that I purchased in the anticipation of having to use it on the keyboard paint job, but ended up not needing it. I'm thinking a wetsand with that grit might do it some good.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha yep. I'm considering doing a light sanding to see if I can get it down to being a bit smooth again. Did you try this? Or did you just go straight into sanding with a lower grit? I've got some 2k grit that I purchased in the anticipation of having to use it on the keyboard paint job, but ended up not needing it. I'm thinking a wetsand with that grit might do it some good.


Well I sanded it with 1000 grit and painted it, but since it was my only mouse I couldn't let it sit for a couple days and the clear coat ended up not sticking. So I sanded everything down, I think I started at 400 grit (not suggested, but I had to cut through enamel paint) and worked my way up to 2000 grit. I just recently sanded it back down to 600 grit though because it gives it more grip although it makes it not look as nice.

It did look like this, if only I had a back up mouse, it might have worked.


----------



## pez

Wow that did look good! One of my most hated things of the OG were the glossy sides. My hands don't overly sweat, but they do produce. The sides of the OG got scratched and they got 'dingy'. Not to mention, the coating on the OG palm rest made my palms sweat more than normal. I still loved that mouse to death, though







. Even the rubber grips on the sides of the 2013 can get a bit slimy on intense sessions.

Might have to try the wetsanding method with the 2k grit tomorrow. I need another project







.


----------



## Soulfire

Hey guys.

I've been using the DA for a good 4-5 years now, and I'm currently on my 3rd one, a Black Edition. It's getting to the point where I need to replace the feet, and my question is a pretty simple one: what is the most efficient way for me to apply my Hyperglide feet for minimum friction?

A while back when I was asking this same question the general answer was to stack them on top of the stock feet. Is this still the recommended course of action? Does it really matter if I'm not all that concerned about LOD? Will there be any issues with scraping on the pad if I remove the stock feet and use just hyperglides?

Thanks!


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Stacking is optimal.


+1 Just double stacked feet on my 3.5G and it's great.

Slightly lower the LOD, and, more importantly, the bottom of the mouse is no longer scraping across the mouse mat. Stock feet are too thin.


----------



## Lysergix710

A couple of opinions regarding that were posted the page prior.

Anyone know a way to turn usb3 ports into usb2 so i can use my deathadder from behind the pc.. thanks


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lysergix710*
> 
> A couple of opinions regarding that were posted the page prior.
> 
> Anyone know a way to turn usb3 ports into usb2 so i can use my deathadder from behind the pc.. thanks


USB 3.0 is backwards compatible with USB 2.0.

You might have to enable Legacy support to get the ports to work with USB 2.0 devices.


----------



## Lysergix710

Thanks but that isnt my issue.

Its just that the mouse is glitchy when being used via usb3 but not 2 and i only have two ports on the front.


----------



## VindalooJim

I usually is recommended not to use mice and keyboards in USB 3.0 but it should be possible for you to get it working.

Do you have Legacy Support enabled in your BIOS? Are your USB 3.0 drivers up to date?


----------



## Lysergix710

Yeh i think its weird the mouse and keyboard usb inputs are usb3 when thats the case.

Legacy is enabled and drivers seem upto date.


----------



## Zero4549

You can't convert your USB 3 to USB 2. Not without physically swapping out the controller, and hacking your motherboard's BIOS to accept it, which is well beyond the capabilities of pretty much anyone other than the manufacturers themselves, who would never do such a thing as it would probably be cheaper for them to just produce an entirely new board.

Stack your feet. It reduces friction AND lowers LOD. If you don't believe me just read the last 131 pages of this thread.


----------



## Soulfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Stack your feet. It reduces friction AND lowers LOD. If you don't believe me just read the last 131 pages of this thread.


If I may ask for a quick explanation, as I've read through many pages of this thread and cannot find one: why does stacking the feet reduce friction? My physics knowledge is failing me right now.

Thanks so far guys!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Soulfire*
> 
> [quote name="Zero4549" url="/t/1128321/the-deathadder-megathread/1310#post_21436712"
> Stack your feet. It reduces friction AND lowers LOD. If you don't believe me just read the last 131 pages of this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> If I may ask for a quick explanation, as I've read through many pages of this thread and cannot find one: why does stacking the feet reduce friction? My physics knowledge is failing me right now.
> 
> Thanks so far guys!
Click to expand...

Quite a few people report that to boot, their DeathAdders drag, causing an annoying drag/friction against their mouse pad. I've been lucky enough to not have this problem, so YMMV. Also, with dragging, if you use a 'hard' mouse pad, it's much more noticeable, and 10 times more annoying. Another contributing factor is how much weight you put on the mouse. As solid as the mouse feels, I'm sure putting a few pounds of pressure on it with your hand could make any mouse drag.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulfire*
> 
> If I may ask for a quick explanation, as I've read through many pages of this thread and cannot find one: why does stacking the feet reduce friction? My physics knowledge is failing me right now.
> 
> Thanks so far guys!


The stock factory feet on the DeathAdders are usually not thick enough to raise the mouse up far enough. The end result is the base of the mouse scrapping across your mouse mat. Stacking up two layers of feet raise it to a height where I feel that it should be out of the factory. It's kind of the DA's only flaw. I know it's fairly high LOD could be considered a flaw but stacking two pairs of mouse feet helps lower the LOD too slightly.


----------



## Forma

what feet do people go for? UK here.


----------



## VindalooJim

I went for CorePad Skatez about 2 weeks ago as the selection in the UK is very limited.

I bought them here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COREPAD-Skatez-Replacement-Mouse-Feet-Razer-DeathAdder-Mouse-Feet-CS27690-/111101760967?pt=UK_Computing_Other_Computing_Networking&hash=item19de2e55c7

I think they're very good, just as good, if not better than the replacement feet Razer sells.

I hear a lot of good things about hyperglides, but I could not find them in the UK.


----------



## Forma

yeah, i don't feel like waiting 3 weeks for feet from hyperglide. It's very odd they need three weeks, makes entirely no sense to me.


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forma*
> 
> yeah, i don't feel like waiting 3 weeks for feet from hyperglide. It's very odd they need three weeks, makes entirely no sense to me.


Probably made to order.

Check out the feet I linked, they're good and a decent price.


----------



## Soulfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forma*
> 
> yeah, i don't feel like waiting 3 weeks for feet from hyperglide. It's very odd they need three weeks, makes entirely no sense to me.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5564/pad-125/Hyperglide_Mouse_Skates_RZ-2_-_6_Skates_-_DeathAdder_DA.html


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulfire*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5564/pad-125/Hyperglide_Mouse_Skates_RZ-2_-_6_Skates_-_DeathAdder_DA.html


That's in the US. We're in the UK.

Using the shipping calculator on frozencpu:

USPS First Class International (15-30 days) $7.99
USPS Priority Mail International $38.75
USPS Express Mail International $42.91
UPS Worldwide Expedited $77.60
UPS Worldwide Express $83.10
UPS Worldwide Saver $80.25

I don't know about you but I know I'd give it a miss.


----------



## Forma

as already said, I'm in the UK. Thanks anyway


----------



## VindalooJim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forma*
> 
> as already said, I'm in the UK. Thanks anyway


Give the the CorePads a try.


----------



## Soulfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Forma*
> 
> as already said, I'm in the UK. Thanks anyway


Sorry, missed that point, my bad.







I doubt that the Corepads would be much different; there's only so much you can do to vary performance beyond material.


----------



## grahad

I have a DA v3 (Mac Edition) whose chassis I sort of broke thanks to a stripped screw. Wondering if anyone has the pinout diagram for the motherboard since I've also apparently broken the somewhat lousy ribbon cable from the mainboard to the daughterboard (Between superglue, rubber bands etc I sort of rage quit.) and figured I might as well 3D print my own shell.


----------



## pez

I'm sure the version you have is different, but this should still be slightly relevant:

Take Apart My DeathAdder, Dawg


----------



## grahad

What they have in pictures is what I have in front of me now.

I'd probably just solder another more flexible flex cable in it's place and modify switch layout off the daughterboard (tracing the traces has me in a headache), but thanks nonetheless.


----------



## Frozzy

Just found out the 3.5G sensor isn't compatible with the Artisan Zero... Guess i'll have to go back to the 2013


----------



## Soulfire

So the time has come for a new mouse as my DA BE's clicks are getting a little meh. Normally I'd just buy another DA (2013 edition seems to be the most logical right now) and play the microswitch roulette, but I'm curious aobut the Zowie EC1/EC2. Has anyone here who owns a DA tried either of the mice? Any comments? The shape seems to be similar to the DA, though I'm not sure if I'd prefer the EC1 or EC2. The most appealing thing to me is the microswitches in the left and right click, which apparently are superior to the DA's and at the very least consistent.

And as a side question, if I were to buy a new DA, would the 2013 be my best bet, or does it have any flaws that the black edition lacks?

Thanks!


----------



## pez

I like the switches that my SS Kinzu V2 has, but it's a backup mouse. They're definitely a step above the DA, but I like the DA for the shape, and familiarity. Plus, it's never failed me







. The thumb-button switches have improved over the BE on the 2013. More click and crisp. The 2013 being lighter was a great thing for me, so I consider that a benefit as well.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grahad*
> 
> What they have in pictures is what I have in front of me now.
> 
> I'd probably just solder another more flexible flex cable in it's place and modify switch layout off the daughterboard (tracing the traces has me in a headache), but thanks nonetheless.


just solder pin-1 of the main-PCB to pin-1 on the button-PCB and so on?



http://imgur.com/7mIgt


pin-1 should be for LED on the button-PCB, and pin-9 should be GND also for LED.(the last missing pin would be m5)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulfire*
> 
> Has anyone here who owns a DA tried either of the mice? Any comments? The shape seems to be similar to the DA, though I'm not sure if I'd prefer the EC1 or EC2. The most appealing thing to me is the microswitches in the left and right click, which apparently are superior to the DA's and at the very least consistent.


i was quite obsessed with DA's in the past, but i like the shape of the EC1 better.
it's more comfortable for my hand, because it does not have unnecessary wide front shape.
on the other hand, the clicks could be problematic for you on the EC1(which i would highly recommend when u liked the size of the DA).
it is also a luckgame with this mouse, to get a unit with perfectly clicking main buttons.


----------



## Soulfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> i was quite obsessed with DA's in the past, but i like the shape of the EC1 better.
> it's more comfortable for my hand, because it does not have unnecessary wide front shape.
> on the other hand, the clicks could be problematic for you on the EC1(which i would highly recommend when u liked the size of the DA).
> it is also a luckgame with this mouse, to get a unit with perfectly clicking main buttons.


Thanks for the response! Could you elaborate a bit on the clicks being problematic for me? The supposedly superior clicks were one of the reasons I was considering the switch. Also, what's the issue with the main buttons?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulfire*
> 
> Thanks for the response! Could you elaborate a bit on the clicks being problematic for me? The supposedly superior clicks were one of the reasons I was considering the switch. Also, what's the issue with the main buttons?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1432003/zowie-announce-ec-evo-cl-series/280#post_21506693

otherwise the clicks should feel a bit more responsive compared to the Deathadder.


----------



## xmr1

I somehow managed to find one brand new in box DeathAdder 3G (Guild Wars edition) at a local shop and snatched it up fairly cheap. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet but if I end up using it I have some questions.

Is there a particular firmware that's seen as optimal? I know there's ones with and without prediction (I prefer without) but I'm not sure if one version # has other advantages or fewer problems than the rest. I've read some people have had their mouse completely bricked by a failed firmware update, so is an update even worth chancing? Also, would it be wise to buy a 3.5G model now to have a replacement shell ready just in case, or do you think they'll still be readily available in the future if something happens? I assume they're discontinued at this point.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmr1*
> 
> Is there a particular firmware that's seen as optimal?


1.39NDC is what you want.








and don't use driverversion 3.05, but use 3.03 instead.
3.05 has a bug where the cursor stops for some millisecons every 5 seconds or so.


----------



## xmr1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> 1.39NDC is what you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and don't use driverversion 3.05, but use 3.03 instead.
> 3.05 has a bug where the cursor stops for some millisecons every 5 seconds or so.


Thanks, got that up and running. Have to wait for some new mouse feet in the mail before I give it a spin though. The drag out of the box is too much.


----------



## Zero4549

I prefer firmware 1.27. for some reason it just seems to work better. I agree with driver 3.03, and you certainly should indeed get some extra feet to stack up on top of the originals.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I prefer firmware 1.27. for some reason it just seems to work better. I agree with driver 3.03, and you certainly should indeed get some extra feet to stack up on top of the originals.


What's working better with 1.27 over 1.39? I had no problem with 3.03 and 1.39.


----------



## Thunderbringer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I prefer firmware 1.27. for some reason it just seems to work better. I agree with driver 3.03, and you certainly should indeed get some extra feet to stack up on top of the originals.


Slightly higher polling rate. I have tested 1.27, 1.28 and 1.35 all of these give full 1000Hz.


----------



## metal571

Does anyone have a DeathAdder 3G that they'd like to sell, or know where to find them? I'm having a serious problem trying to find one and my google skills are pretty good...

I'm in the USA. Zero listing for that stuff on eBay, except if you consider the PC-Bang edition stuff good which I assume it isn't


----------



## thuNDa

is it just mine, or is the DA 3.5G like total crap on a black QcK in general?

i mean on my razer gol. speed i can flick it around as fast as i want, and it never freaks out, but on my qck heavy it freaks out regulary when i do 180° flicks.
never thought the 3.5G is so different performancewise compared to the 3G version.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> is it just mine, or is the DA 3.5G like total crap on a black QcK in general?
> 
> i mean on my razer gol. speed i can flick it around as fast as i want, and it never freaks out, but on my qck heavy it freaks out regulary when i do 180° flicks.
> never thought the 3.5G is so different performancewise compared to the 3G version.


Never got mine to fail on QcK Heavy.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> Never got mine to fail on QcK Heavy.


aww...









well, that is strange, it happens only on my qck heavy i use as main mousepad, but not at all on an old one.
i notice that the new one i use mainly, has some sort "glittering" in the surface, like some coating.
does yours have that too?

i thought i had already finished my senseiadder, but now i'm unsure if the sensor is good or not.(never should have taken a 3.5G for it







)


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> aww...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well, that is strange, it happens only on my qck heavy i use as main mousepad, but not at all on an old one.
> i notice that the new one i use mainly, has some sort "glittering" in the surface, like some coating.
> does yours have that too?
> 
> i thought i had already finished my senseiadder, but now i'm unsure if the sensor is good or not.(never should have taken a 3.5G for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeah I might have some "glittering" in my pad as well. Senseiadder..... marry me


----------



## kazuyamishima

Question for the knowledgeable people in this thread.

I am quite enjoying the glossy versions that came out of the DA 3.5G. I was wondering whether a glossy 2013 version was released at some point, or whether this is something we have not seen yet.

Anyone spotted them?

Maybe a cool project would be to switch the body of the 2013 with a glossy 3.5G somehow. But I'd rather wait for a release.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> Yeah I might have some "glittering" in my pad as well. Senseiadder..... marry me


seems like the transparent base of the sensei raw was causing it.
some tape here and there and now it works as expected.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> seems like the transparent base of the sensei raw was causing it.
> some tape here and there and now it works as expected.


Sweet, how's the weight after the mod?


----------



## Ino.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazuyamishima*
> 
> Question for the knowledgeable people in this thread.
> 
> I am quite enjoying the glossy versions that came out of the DA 3.5G. I was wondering whether a glossy 2013 version was released at some point, or whether this is something we have not seen yet.
> 
> Anyone spotted them?
> 
> Maybe a cool project would be to switch the body of the 2013 with a glossy 3.5G somehow. But I'd rather wait for a release.


I only know of the CLG edition, but not if it's glossy. Top doesn't look glossy.


----------



## Nivity

No It's not glossy, It is smoother then the 2013 however since the coating/Grainy top of that is just horrible imo.

Takasta got a quick overlook of it.






The CLG version is quite sexy though, I love the black and white.
Would rathet use that then the 2013 normal by far.


----------



## kazuyamishima

Thanks for the feedback all. Unfortunately no DA 2013 glossy version yet. I guess I will continue to use the 3.5G with the tape-fix until they release one, if they release one.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> Sweet, how's the weight after the mod?


i'm not completly done, but it should be around 93g sitting on a scale, with cable attached.
i think the sensei raw weights the same under those circumstances, but i will check that with my other sensei raw.


----------



## daav1d

Anyone here got fw 2.33 for DA 3.5G? Can't find it on their website. http://cdn.overclock.net/9/92/9282d135_response_test_overall_140108.png


----------



## thuNDa

i found it here: http://drivers.downloadatoz.com/vendor_razer_type_input-device/142397,razer-deathadder-3500dpi-mouse-firmware-updater-v-2-33/download.html
and it seems to be even legit.









BTW: http://www.esreality.com/post/2547855/senseiadder-raw/


----------



## Qu1ckset

Im just going to go with the 2013 deathadder then, thanks for your feedback!


----------



## spiderga

Just received DA2013. Should I go Synapse 2.0? Just without drivers? Alternative ones with specific version? I'm lost in this thing.


----------



## nlmiller0015

you might as well use synapse wether installed or not it will perform the same since the mouse sensor is based of it


----------



## mksteez

Is there any way to activate a secondary DPI when right click is pressed? my purpose is trying to slow down the ADS on some games that only have one sensitivity setting.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mksteez*
> 
> Is there any way to activate a secondary DPI when right click is pressed? my purpose is trying to slow down the ADS on some games that only have one sensitivity setting.


Via macro you could do this. I'm not sure if Razer's software alone is capable, but if not, it can be done in conjunction with AHK.


----------



## ronal

I'm thinking about getting the Razer Deathadder Bang Edition. This will replace my CM Spawn for the time being until the new Alcor comes out in the US. What do you guys think about the Bang Edition? I know it has 3 buttons but is the sensor performance good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-Razer-DeathAdder-1800Dpi-Gaming-Mouse-PC-bang-Edition-/181260833349?pt=Mice&hash=item2a33fcd245


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> I'm thinking about getting the Razer Deathadder Bang Edition. This will replace my CM Spawn for the time being until the new Alcor comes out in the US. What do you guys think about the Bang Edition? I know it has 3 buttons but is the sensor performance good.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-Razer-DeathAdder-1800Dpi-Gaming-Mouse-PC-bang-Edition-/181260833349?pt=Mice&hash=item2a33fcd245


As far as I can tell it's just the 1800dpi version of the standard 3.5G Deathadder sensor. I'd probably just buy a regular black edition deathadder and be done with it. It's a great mouse and has a ton more features than the PC Bang edition, but then again I need the two side buttons.


----------



## ronal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> As far as I can tell it's just the 1800dpi version of the standard 3.5G Deathadder sensor. I'd probably just buy a regular black edition deathadder and be done with it. It's a great mouse and has a ton more features than the PC Bang edition, but then again I need the two side buttons.


Its only $30 which is a good price because I don't want to spend $60 now and another $60 when the Alcor comes out, but I want something that is better than my Spawn. Its pretty much this mouse or the Kinzu v2 which is $20.


----------



## mksteez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Via macro you could do this. I'm not sure if Razer's software alone is capable, but if not, it can be done in conjunction with AHK.


Just downloaded AHK and I have no idea what command to set. Do you happen to know the command?


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> Its only $30 which is a good price because I don't want to spend $60 now and another $60 when the Alcor comes out, but I want something that is better than my Spawn. Its pretty much this mouse or the Kinzu v2 which is $20.


If It's just between those two mice, I'd buy the deathadder.


----------



## ronal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> If It's just between those two mice, I'd buy the deathadder.


One more thing, how is the LOD on the 3.5G sensor.


----------



## metal571

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> One more thing, how is the LOD on the 3.5G sensor.


Not good at all without the tape fix.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal571*
> 
> Not good at all without the tape fix.


What he said.


----------



## ctlavender

Just wonder why Deathadder considered as a good mice since the LOD is unadjustable. Too bad I'm emphasizing on this, 4CD LOD distance is the way too much, even 1CD is not acceptable by me.

I'm still doing researching on gaming mice and I had tried Razer Lachesis and SteelSeries Sensei RAW so far. I'm fine with Lachesis LOD but not the latter one, which is about the distance of 1CD as well for the LOD.

Is there any fix on this, despite of using tape?


----------



## Contra9

Deathadder 2013 has LOD adjustment in Synapse 2.0 and by default has very low LOD. There is zero need to get an older model.

Edit: I guess price could be a factor, but the 2013 model does go on sale occasionally (got mine for $42).


----------



## nlmiller0015

you can use the calibration feature to get around 1cd but it lower the max tracking i believe


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctlavender*
> 
> Just wonder why Deathadder considered as a good mice since the LOD is unadjustable. Too bad I'm emphasizing on this, 4CD LOD distance is the way too much, even 1CD is not acceptable by me.
> 
> I'm still doing researching on gaming mice and I had tried Razer Lachesis and SteelSeries Sensei RAW so far. I'm fine with Lachesis LOD but not the latter one, which is about the distance of 1CD as well for the LOD.
> 
> Is there any fix on this, despite of using tape?


The combination of the Deathadder's belly shape and teflon feet well depth pretty much requires that users stack an extra set of feet on the original ones in order to get a good glide. That alone brings the LOD down to acceptable levels.

Using the right mousepad and/or applying the "tape fix" can further lower LOD to very good levels.

Swapping LEDs can give further improvements still.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contra9*
> 
> Deathadder 2013 has LOD adjustment in Synapse 2.0 and by default has very low LOD. There is zero need to get an older model.
> 
> Edit: I guess price could be a factor, but the 2013 model does go on sale occasionally (got mine for $42).


Older versions have superior sensors, and don't require the atrocious synapse 2.0 in order to be configured. They also can subjectively feel and look nicer.


----------



## L4dd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Older versions have superior sensors


Are they considered superior by you for not having such prominent "smoothing" algorithms versus the latter 2013 model's?


----------



## Contra9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Older versions have superior sensors, and don't require the atrocious synapse 2.0 in order to be configured. They also can subjectively feel and look nicer.


Superior is a bit of a stretch, preferred by you and many others is reasonable, but in most measurable ways, such as polling rate stability and malfunction speed, the 2013 has the edge. The ways the 2013 version is criticized are very subjective, smoothing (aka not-enough-jitter







) and input lag have not been shown to exist in an empirical way, people just say they "feel" it.

In other personal preference aspects, IMO the 2013 has better grip, scroll wheel and side buttons.

I don't get the hate for Synapse software, to me its like any other mouse software like setpoint or Steelseries. The cloud thing doesn't bother me, I did the same with my Logitech Harmony One remote years ago. The Razer software can be uninstalled after the mouse is set, but I don't know why people think the Microsoft driver from 2006 is the end-all of mouse drivers. I prefer the recent software developed for the mouse and the modern features they have, such as polling rate.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contra9*
> 
> Superior is a bit of a stretch, preferred by you and many others is reasonable, but in most measurable ways, such as polling rate stability and malfunction speed, the 2013 has the edge. The ways the 2013 version is criticized are very subjective, smoothing (aka not-enough-jitter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and input lag have not been shown to exist in an empirical way, people just say they "feel" it.
> 
> In other personal preference aspects, IMO the 2013 has better grip, scroll wheel and side buttons.
> 
> I don't get the hate for Synapse software, to me its like any other mouse software like setpoint or Steelseries. The cloud thing doesn't bother me, I did the same with my Logitech Harmony One remote years ago. The Razer software can be uninstalled after the mouse is set, but I don't know why people think the Microsoft driver from 2006 is the end-all of mouse drivers. I prefer the recent software developed for the mouse and the modern features they have, such as polling rate.


I would much rather work on improving my hand's precision and steadyness than just blanket everything with an overly aggressive smoothing algorithm. There is no significant jitter on the older models, further smoothing at that point is akin to tossing FXAA on top of an image that is already supersampled and passed through 16x MSAA - there are no more aliased edges to fix, all you are accomplishing at this point is image quality reduction.

DPI steps on older versions are practical. 450, 900, and 1800 are all very useable, and can suit pretty much any game engine and play style. 3600 is already impractical for most users, there is ability no need to double that further still, especially not at the cost of inferior tracking. This is made worse the fact that all DPI settings below the impractically high native resolution are all poorly interpolated (hence the need for the previously mentioned excessive smoothing).

As for my issue Synapse 2.0 itself, it has nothing to do with features and everything to do with implementation. Added features are always a nice bonus, but they only go so far. The features new to synapse 2.0 are few and weak, and do not make up for the platform's serious flaws. Those flaws of course being the widely documented compatibility issues with other software, the constant random mouse input lockups, windows boot issues, and BSODs.

The only improvements the 2013 model bring to the table are the (subjectively) better side grips, the nifty but entirely unneeded adjustable LOD, and the "better" scroll wheel that is really a double edged sword, not a straight improvement.


----------



## nlmiller0015

actually i be glad for lift off adjustment if it was possible to add on the older models wouldnt have to waste money on mouse skates


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I would much rather work on improving my hand's precision and steadyness than just blanket everything with an overly aggressive smoothing algorithm. There is no significant jitter on the older models, further smoothing at that point is akin to tossing FXAA on top of an image that is already supersampled and passed through 16x MSAA - there are no more aliased edges to fix, all you are accomplishing at this point is image quality reduction.
> 
> DPI steps on older versions are practical. 450, 900, and 1800 are all very useable, and can suit pretty much any game engine and play style. 3600 is already impractical for most users, there is ability no need to double that further still, especially not at the cost of inferior tracking. This is made worse the fact that all DPI settings below the impractically high native resolution are all poorly interpolated (hence the need for the previously mentioned excessive smoothing).
> 
> As for my issue Synapse 2.0 itself, it has nothing to do with features and everything to do with implementation. Added features are always a nice bonus, but they only go so far. The features new to synapse 2.0 are few and weak, and do not make up for the platform's serious flaws. Those flaws of course being the widely documented compatibility issues with other software, the constant random mouse input lockups, windows boot issues, and BSODs.
> 
> The only improvements the 2013 model bring to the table are the (subjectively) better side grips, the nifty but entirely unneeded adjustable LOD, and the "better" scroll wheel that is really a double edged sword, not a straight improvement.


I've used my 2013 DA in comparison to my DA:BE and I have to tell ya... Outside of the horrid liftoff distance of the BE there is little difference of the cursor movements between either one. DEFINITELY not anything that caused me to miss a shot vs the other one. That's just my take away from the whole deal. Granted I play at 900 DPI, I'm no professional, but I am anal retentive and couldn't fault the new DA. I don't use Synapse, so that stuff doesn't bother me.


----------



## Contra9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I would much rather work on improving my hand's precision and steadyness than just blanket everything with an overly aggressive smoothing algorithm. There is no significant jitter on the older models, further smoothing at that point is akin to tossing FXAA on top of an image that is already supersampled and passed through 16x MSAA - there are no more aliased edges to fix, all you are accomplishing at this point is image quality reduction.
> 
> DPI steps on older versions are practical. 450, 900, and 1800 are all very useable, and can suit pretty much any game engine and play style. 3600 is already impractical for most users, there is ability no need to double that further still, especially not at the cost of inferior tracking. This is made worse the fact that all DPI settings below the impractically high native resolution are all poorly interpolated (hence the need for the previously mentioned excessive smoothing).
> 
> As for my issue Synapse 2.0 itself, it has nothing to do with features and everything to do with implementation. Added features are always a nice bonus, but they only go so far. The features new to synapse 2.0 are few and weak, and do not make up for the platform's serious flaws. Those flaws of course being the widely documented compatibility issues with other software, the constant random mouse input lockups, windows boot issues, and BSODs.
> 
> The only improvements the 2013 model bring to the table are the (subjectively) better side grips, the nifty but entirely unneeded adjustable LOD, and the "better" scroll wheel that is really a double edged sword, not a straight improvement.


How do you determine if the DA 2013 has "an overly aggressive smoothing algorithm"? If a mouse has prediction, that is easy to show as is jitter and acceleration. Nobody has demonstrated smoothing on any mouse, just assume it has it because there is no jitter at high dpi. That doesn't prove anything but everyone has accepted that the new mice such as Rival, DA 2013 and Mionix 7000 have smoothing and written them off, based mostly on conjecture.

Why does smoothing come at the cost of inferior tracking? All mice have smoothing, excessive amounts would be close to prediction, but no one has ever shown the DA 2013 to have any kind of prediction. It would be easy to show. So why does it have inferior tracking, or rather what have you observed that has lead to that conclusion?

I am fortunate that I have had none of those problems with Synapse software and it would be frustrating for those that do. But given how many people use Razer mice, I can't imagine those problems are very common, else forums would be flooded with complaints. I know a couple of people who use Synapse and it has been fine for them. Razer drivers seem to have the same percent of problems as other manufacturers, just given the amount of users it seems like more.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> I've used my 2013 DA in comparison to my DA:BE and I have to tell ya... Outside of the horrid liftoff distance of the BE there is little difference of the cursor movements between either one. DEFINITELY not anything that caused me to miss a shot vs the other one. That's just my take away from the whole deal. Granted I play at 900 DPI, I'm no professional, but I am anal retentive and couldn't fault the new DA. I don't use Synapse, so that stuff doesn't bother me.


I'm in agreement with this as well. It was a huge relief not to have that pretty 'meh' LOD of the BE. Other than that, it was fantastic. I think the coating on the 2013 is better, though.


----------



## Zero4549

So, my scroll wheel on my "Original in BE's Skin" Deathadder finally started to fritz out on me about 3 days ago. Scrolling in either direction would sometimes either just shake the screen, or scroll the wrong way. Today it got to the point that the wheel was pretty much 100% unusable.

The wheel and all associated components are from my 2007 3G model, and have been used for over 20 thousand hours.

Took the mouse apart, removed and cleaned the wheel, use some DeOxit D5 on the wheel encoder assembly, reseated the wheel, put it back together, annnnnnd...

Good as freaking new.









This guy just keeps going. Hopefully this helps some of you guys with mouse wheel issues. I know it is a very commonly reported issue without much of a successful fix rate, and this is the first time I've had a chance to experience and thus take a crack at solving it myself.


----------



## drc003

So I was at the grocery with my wife and saw they had the Razer DeathAdder 3500dpi marked down to $27.99. I've been using a Krait for 7 years with no issues. I haven't really kept up with the different DeathAdder models. Is this a good deal or just a low price for a bad model?


----------



## L4dd

$28 for a 3.5G DeathAdder seems good to me...


----------



## reddy89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drc003*
> 
> So I was at the grocery with my wife and saw they had the Razer DeathAdder 3500dpi marked down to $27.99. I've been using a Krait for 7 years with no issues. I haven't really kept up with the different DeathAdder models. Is this a good deal or just a low price for a bad model?


All the DAs are good. Looks like a good deal if legit.


----------



## Zero4549

If legit, go for it.


----------



## RavoKed

I say go for the deathadder 3.5g


----------



## drc003

I went ahead and grabbed the Deathadder 3.5 for $27 at Meijers and I'm glad I did. The mouse has a great feel and the tracking works well for my style. I'm somewhat low sens but not as severe as many. Probably low-medium. The LOD isn't bad for how I lift my mouse either. I guess using a Krait and MX518 has conditioned me to lift high enough. At $27 this mouse was an absolute steal.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions on drivers/firmware/setup with the 3.5G? I personally chose to install the standalone legacy drivers and left the firmware as it came. I believe it was 2.45? I left the dpi at the native 1800 and set the driver config to 4 out of 10. Seems to be tracking great in Titanfall and BF. Haven't tested with CS and TF2 yet.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drc003*
> 
> I went ahead and grabbed the Deathadder 3.5 for $27 at Meijers and I'm glad I did. The mouse has a great feel and the tracking works well for my style. I'm somewhat low sens but not as severe as many. Probably low-medium. The LOD isn't bad for how I lift my mouse either. I guess using a Krait and MX518 has conditioned me to lift high enough. At $27 this mouse was an absolute steal.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions on drivers/firmware/setup with the 3.5G? I personally chose to install the standalone legacy drivers and left the firmware as it came. I believe it was 2.45? I left the dpi at the native 1800 and set the driver config to 4 out of 10. Seems to be tracking great in Titanfall and BF. Haven't tested with CS and TF2 yet.


Seems like a solid setup, man. The only thing I didn't like about my 3.5G deathadder was the LOD. I used the tape trick and never looked back. Used it for several years. I don't think you'll have any issues with that driver and firmware. I prefer the legacy driver myself.


----------



## Yahar

Anyone figured a way to delete Virtual HID minidriver in device manager? Using DA 3g driver 3.03


----------



## Blaikie

I'm using a DeathAdder 3.5G with blue lights and I have the 3.05 legacy drivers installed. It is set to the native DPI 1800 which I like but having such a low sensitivity in-game makes it kind of awkward when switching to the desktop as it escalates. Is there a solution to tone down the desktop sensitivity without effecting in-game sensitivity and the windows pointer speed?


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaikie*
> 
> I'm using a DeathAdder 3.5G with blue lights and I have the 3.05 legacy drivers installed. It is set to the native DPI 1800 which I like but having such a low sensitivity in-game makes it kind of awkward when switching to the desktop as it escalates. Is there a solution to tone down the desktop sensitivity without effecting in-game sensitivity and the windows pointer speed?


You can shift the DPI down on the mouse to 900DPI, and then change the ingame sensitivity to whatever you're comfortable with. Just one idea. I'm sure others here have multiple ways to address the problem. I just use 800-1200 across the board.


----------



## Dhsidh46434




----------



## avinin1

Look what was waiting for me to come back home..


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avinin1*
> 
> Look what was waiting for me to come back home..


Sweet







Where did you buy it?


----------



## erobuR

Today I had an update via Synapse to my DA2013. And now everything just seems much more balanced in terms of tracking. The smoothing is way lesser.

Can anyone confirm?


----------



## JustinSane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erobuR*
> 
> Today I had an update via Synapse to my DA2013. And now everything just seems much more balanced in terms of tracking. The smoothing is way lesser.
> 
> Can anyone confirm?


I just updated mine and it does feel a bit different. A little more snappy. Hmm, interesting.


----------



## Blashyrkh

I updated the software, but not sure if firmware has been updated...how could i check that?


----------



## Chuck89

Today another DA 2013 arrived and although the left side button now has a more responsive feeling to it now, i still experience the fact that both mouse buttons are loose.
There is a space between the button and the microswitch. Another flaw i have found within minutes is that the scroll wheel isn't firmly fixed in place.

I uploaded a video of these flaws:






My questions regarding the DA 2013 is: how many DAs do i have to buy to get one without these loose buttons?

A friend of mine does have a flawless one and ive seen at least 3 DAs in an electronics store near me which are flawless, too. So, is it just bad luck or what?


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chuck89*
> 
> Today another DA 2013 arrived and although the left side button now has a more responsive feeling to it now, i still experience the fact that both mouse buttons are loose.
> There is a space between the button and the microswitch. Another flaw i have found within minutes is that the scroll wheel isn't firmly fixed in place.
> 
> I uploaded a video of these flaws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My questions regarding the DA 2013 is: how many DAs do i have to buy to get one without these loose buttons?
> 
> A friend of mine does have a flawless one and ive seen at least 3 DAs in an electronics store near me which are flawless, too. So, is it just bad luck or what?


It could have been a change in the manufacturing spec or process. I have a couple of the first run 2013's and the one I actually use doesn't have the issues you've explained. Maybe newer DA2013's have a more lax spec for QC. No other reason I can think of, other than you've just had a run of bad luck.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> It could have been a change in the manufacturing spec or process. I have a couple of the first run 2013's and the one I actually use doesn't have the issues you've explained. Maybe newer DA2013's have a more lax spec for QC. No other reason I can think of, other than you've just had a run of bad luck.


I've actually found the newer DA2013's to be better. I kept having issues with the shell of Mouse5 breaking. I've had the current DA for 3 months now and it hasn't broken.

I've had better luck with the current DA i'm using than all my other DA's. Maybe I just got lucky?


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> I've actually found the newer DA2013's to be better. I kept having issues with the shell of Mouse5 breaking. I've had the current DA for 3 months now and it hasn't broken.
> 
> I've had better luck with the current DA i'm using than all my other DA's. Maybe I just got lucky?


It's very possible. I've been really happy with how well their new Blackwidows have been performing compared to the 2011 and 2012 versions. I don't have any newer Razer mice, so I can't really compare.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> I've actually found the newer DA2013's to be better. I kept having issues with the shell of Mouse5 breaking. I've had the current DA for 3 months now and it hasn't broken.
> 
> I've had better luck with the current DA i'm using than all my other DA's. Maybe I just got lucky?


I think the new DA got better scroll wheel, lighter and more crisp buttons. Very good feel on all Mouse1-5. But it's so slippery. Old glossy sides were perfect. I have not used mine more than a couple of days due to I can't hold it. But it does feel very solid imo. I have only had 1 problem with DA before. One 3G DA started to doubleclick. Other than that I never had problem with DA broking.


----------



## Nixtix

My left mouse button on the Deathadder 2013 broke after a year, but I was able to replace the switch with spare switches within an old busted Logitech MX510. The switch was an Omron D2FC but I'm guessing its a slightly older model that requires higher actuation force, but I think I prefer it to the overly sensitive switch the DA had.


----------



## Warfield

Sadly my deathadder not only died, it fried two of my usb ports on my computer. I loved the mouse but I think I'll be moving on. Can't trust something like that only after a year.


----------



## Bastard Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> Sadly my deathadder not only died, it fried two of my usb ports on my computer. I loved the mouse but I think I'll be moving on. Can't trust something like that only after a year.


Wow. Good job Razer...

Did you find a good replacement to your DA?


----------



## Warfield

Went back to the Savu for now. I don't like the way it tracks on cloth pads (low tracking speeds). Probably going to pick up a G400. Wasn't crazy about the shape but loved the sensor.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warfield*
> 
> Went back to the Savu for now. I don't like the way it tracks on cloth pads (low tracking speeds). Probably going to pick up a G400. Wasn't crazy about the shape but loved the sensor.


Look hard at the G400. Remember the G400s is not the same mouse you liked in the G400 v2. Same shape, but the sensors were different.


----------



## Warfield

Ah, wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

How the hell can a mouse fry an USB port???


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> How the hell can a mouse fry an USB port???


It happens more than you think. I've had a couple motherboards with dead USB ports over the years. They are powered data ports. A shorted or bent USB plug is all it takes and say good bye to your port. Hopefully it doesn't take the whole motherboard along with it.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Does anyone knows why I can't have the 1000Hz poling rate on my Deathadder 3.5G Black? I already did the Changing USB Polling Rate to 1000hz (or lower) steps, re-installed the Synapse and it doesn't work at all. Without the Synapse I get the 1000Hz, but 524Hz is all what I have when Synapse is on.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Does anyone knows why I can't have the 1000Hz poling rate on my Deathadder 3.5G Black? I already did the Changing USB Polling Rate to 1000hz (or lower) steps, re-installed the Synapse and it doesn't work at all. Without the Synapse I get the 1000Hz, but 524Hz is all what I have when Synapse is on.


There are a couple things here. First, why do you want Synapse? If you've changed the mouse to the DPI and polling rate you want, why do you need it anymore. It's just a resource hog that sits in your tray and adds input lag to your mouse...

Second, you can try the Deathadder legacy driver. It's the only thing that I will use with my non-2013 Deathadders.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> There are a couple things here. First, why do you want Synapse? If you've changed the mouse to the DPI and polling rate you want, why do you need it anymore. It's just a resource hog that sits in your tray and adds input lag to your mouse...
> 
> Second, you can try the Deathadder legacy driver. It's the only thing that I will use with my non-2013 Deathadders.


I use it for on-the-fly DPI changing and macros. Oh, I tryed the Legacy Driver but it does not recognize my mouse...


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> I use it for on-the-fly DPI changing and macros. Oh, I tryed the Legacy Driver but it does not recognize my mouse...


Is there any way you can try it on a different computer?

Also, you can use the button on the bottom of the mouse for profile swapping. I'm assuming it would be faster than using the software.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> Is there any way you can try it on a different computer?
> 
> Also, you can use the button on the bottom of the mouse for profile swapping. I'm assuming it would be faster than using the software.


I do use that button, but it only works when Synapse is on. That's why I need it.... What I just can't understand is why the poling rate is set to 1000Hz at Synapse and at USB with that trick and it does not go over 500Hz at dimr! Why?







When Synapse is turned off the poling rat instantly goes up to 1000Hz, but when I install it or open it again, it goes down back to 500Hz, EVEN THOUGH I set 1000Hz there. Man, what a mess. I can try it on another computer btw, will do it asap.


----------



## DeMS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> I do use that button, but it only works when Synapse is on. That's why I need it.... What I just can't understand is why the poling rate is set to 1000Hz at Synapse and at USB with that trick and it does not go over 500Hz at dimr! Why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When Synapse is turned off the poling rat instantly goes up to 1000Hz, but when I install it or open it again, it goes down back to 500Hz, EVEN THOUGH I set 1000Hz there. Man, what a mess. I can try it on another computer btw, will do it asap.


Try another polling - checking - utility.

Some of them were borked and would only go that far.

(I can't remember if dimr was one of those, but there are better alternatives out there for sure)


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeMS*
> 
> Try another polling - checking - utility.
> 
> Some of them were borked and would only go that far.
> 
> (I can't remember if dimr was one of those, but there are better alternatives out there for sure)


Have just tried dimr, Mouse Rate and Mouse Movement Recorder, all said I only have 500Hz...


----------



## DivineDark

Definitely try it on another computer. If that doesn't work, I'd try to exchange the mouse. If you were anywhere close to me I could probably hook you up with a regular 3.5g death adder. At least to test with.


----------



## hajabooja

Been jumping from mouse to mouse and discovered that I really enjoy the exact shape of the Deathadders. I have a 2013 and just got a 3.5g. Just curious if I really need to run the mouse at 1800 CPI? I'd like to run it at 450, but I'm not sure of the adverse affects of doing so. Could someone enlighten me?


----------



## metal571

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajabooja*
> 
> Been jumping from mouse to mouse and discovered that I really enjoy the exact shape of the Deathadders. I have a 2013 and just got a 3.5g. Just curious if I really need to run the mouse at 1800 CPI? I'd like to run it at 450, but I'm not sure of the adverse affects of doing so. Could someone enlighten me?


I don't think there's any issue on the 2013, but you'll have a severely decreased max PCS on the 3.5G if you use any step that isn't 1800.


----------



## duhizy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal571*
> 
> I don't think there's any issue on the 2013, but you'll have a severely decreased max PCS on the 3.5G if you use any step that isn't 1800.


I've heard people complain about negative acceleration on the 3.5g on anything that isn't 1800, do you know the extent of this? I like using between 800-1400 and i havent had an issue so far, is it only when you exceed PCS and, therefore, it is less likely to happen to someone using 800-1400 because they don't move as fast?


----------



## metal571

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhizy*
> 
> I've heard people complain about negative acceleration on the 3.5g on anything that isn't 1800, do you know the extent of this? I like using between 800-1400 and i havent had an issue so far, is it only when you exceed PCS and, therefore, it is less likely to happen to someone using 800-1400 because they don't move as fast?


I'm not sure exactly what you mean but if you are using a step that's not 1800 you're looking at about 2 m/s instead of 4 m/s.


----------



## duhizy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal571*
> 
> I'm not sure exactly what you mean but if you are using a step that's not 1800 you're looking at about 2 m/s instead of 4 m/s.


How hard would u say it is to exceed 2 m/s on 800 or 1400 dpi? I don't want to waste time on a dpi if i'll eventually exceed 2 m/s and have it effect my play.


----------



## metal571

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhizy*
> 
> How hard would u say it is to exceed 2 m/s on 800 or 1400 dpi? I don't want to waste time on a dpi if i'll eventually exceed 2 m/s and have it effect my play.


Quite easily if you are lower than say 40+cm/360 or so.


----------



## Deadeye

That new DA 2013 update that came out a month ago is no comparable with 3.5G in terms of response and smoothing?


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadeye*
> 
> That new DA 2013 update that came out a month ago is no comparable with 3.5G in terms of response and smoothing?


The update was a Synapse update, not a DA 2013 firmware update. I've heard some people say it made the mouse a bit more snappy, but it sucks that people that choose to not use software for their mice couldn't enjoy the benefits.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metal571*
> 
> Quite easily if you are lower than say 40+cm/360 or so.


I can't get my 3.5G to malfunction on 450 or 900 DPI (legacy drivers). But I can get a Zowie mouse to malfunction pretty easy for example. The 3G didn't like anything other than 1800 DPI but I haven't experienced any negative effects by lowering the DPI on the 3.5G, at least if you are doing it with legacy drivers and not Synapse.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> I can't get my 3.5G to malfunction on 450 or 900 DPI (legacy drivers). But I can get a Zowie mouse to malfunction pretty easy for example. The 3G didn't like anything other than 1800 DPI but I haven't experienced any negative effects by lowering the DPI on the 3.5G, at least if you are doing it with legacy drivers and not Synapse.


That's interesting. I get around a full m/s lower on a Deathadder 3.5g/Black at 900DPI compared to the EC EVO/AM/FK. I still haven't been able to make a Zowie mouse malfunction at 1150.


----------



## metal571

Yeah strange. I was easily able to get negative acceleration on steps that weren't 1800 back when I had my 3.5G.


----------



## duhizy

i don't go past 1 m/s when i play anyways, the 3.5g is indeed 2 m/s on anything other then 1800; however, it isn't something that will effect me in game.


----------



## pez

The software was terrible for me and tried to control my keyboard, too....do not want.


----------



## garage0racing

Is there any difference fit-wise between the cover of the DA generations?
I want to replace it and I'm not sure if I have the V2 or the V3. Found one on ebay for the 3.5G and I was wondering if the cover is gonna fit.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garage0racing*
> 
> Is there any difference fit-wise between the cover of the DA generations?
> I want to replace it and I'm not sure if I have the V2 or the V3. Found one on ebay for the 3.5G and I was wondering if the cover is gonna fit.


3.5G fits for rev.3:


http://imgur.com/6xDoX


----------



## garage0racing

I guess I have a V3. Thanks for your help.

I'll order the 3.5G cover for it.


----------



## hiccup

After reading so much about the old 3g sensor, I did get one deathadder guildwars edition. The 3g sensor feels so much better in cs:go compared to Deathadder 2013.
Unfortunately the buttons are not that crisp compared to my deathadder 2013. Is it possible to put the 3g sensor in to DA 2013 shell?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiccup*
> 
> After reading so much about the old 3g sensor, I did get one deathadder guildwars edition. The 3g sensor feels so much better in cs:go compared to Deathadder 2013.
> Unfortunately the buttons are not that crisp compared to my deathadder 2013. Is it possible to put the 3g sensor in to DA 2013 shell?


no, it's an entirely new design of everything inside the mouse.


----------



## Nilizum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiccup*
> 
> After reading so much about the old 3g sensor, I did get one deathadder guildwars edition. The 3g sensor feels so much better in cs:go compared to Deathadder 2013.
> Unfortunately the buttons are not that crisp compared to my deathadder 2013. Is it possible to put the 3g sensor in to DA 2013 shell?


Not only that, but the shell is not the major contributing factor to the 'crisp' feeling you're getting; the microswitches being used are different.


----------



## pez

Steelseries has a couple models with even better switches than the 2013. If the two I had happened to have the thumb buttons I need, they'd have replaced my DA 2013 long ago







.


----------



## DaFaRsHeR

So virtually any mouse thread I find contains a "Deathadder is the mouse of choice" comment, how do you all overcome the lack of an on the fly sensitivity adjustment button? Seems to me a mouse with the rep that the Deathadder has should have a dedicated button for it, do you agree?


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaFaRsHeR*
> 
> So virtually any mouse thread I find contains a "Deathadder is the mouse of choice" comment, how do you all overcome the lack of an on the fly sensitivity adjustment button? Seems to me a mouse with the rep that the Deathadder has should have a dedicated button for it, do you agree?


I don't ever toggle different sensitivities ingame so I have no use for that kind of button. But as long it's not in the way, I don't care if the mouse got one.


----------



## DaFaRsHeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> I don't ever toggle different sensitivities ingame so I have no use for that kind of button. But as long it's not in the way, I don't care if the mouse got one.


Do you not find rotation of tank turrets in BF4 etc. is a bit too slow using only one sensitivity?


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaFaRsHeR*
> 
> Do you not find rotation of tank turrets in BF4 etc. is a bit too slow using only one sensitivity?


I have only tried BF3... which I found extremely boring, way to slow. I did a 45 min gaming session and uninstalled it right away.







Atm I'm only playing CS:GO as a FPS game. Some years ago I did play a bit of COD4 Promod and some COD:MW2. But at those games it was the same, never toggled sensitivity.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaFaRsHeR*
> 
> Do you not find rotation of tank turrets in BF4 etc. is a bit too slow using only one sensitivity?


IIRC, you could modify the config files, so that the turrets were faster in BF BC2, doesn't that work in BF3/4?


----------



## metal571

Vehicle sens is separate. The problem in BF4 is gunner sens is insanely high if you set tank turret sens to something reasonable, but whatever. I found a compromise for vehicle sens, and then inf sens is exact via config file.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaFaRsHeR*
> 
> So virtually any mouse thread I find contains a "Deathadder is the mouse of choice" comment, how do you all overcome the lack of an on the fly sensitivity adjustment button? Seems to me a mouse with the rep that the Deathadder has should have a dedicated button for it, do you agree?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaFaRsHeR*
> 
> Do you not find rotation of tank turrets in BF4 etc. is a bit too slow using only one sensitivity?


Even when I had a MX518, I never used those 'on-the-fly' DPI settings. It would only end up screwing me up for when I needed to quickly hop out of a tank or something and then end up spinning endless circles next to a near-extinct tank/vehicle.

And like the others said, I thought that was pretty much configurable?


----------



## htda

I have a couple of questions about the DA 2013 I hope someone could answer.

Is it lighter than the Logitech G400s? The g400's listed weight is 133g, but that's including cable. Is the DA2013's 104g with or without the cable?

Also, would you say the DA2013 is horrible for fingertip grip?


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htda*
> 
> I have a couple of questions about the DA 2013 I hope someone could answer.
> 
> Is it lighter than the Logitech G400s? The g400's listed weight is 133g, but that's including cable. Is the DA2013's 104g with or without the cable?
> 
> Also, would you say the DA2013 is horrible for fingertip grip?


I think G400 is also 104-105 gram. DA 4G is indeed 104 without cable. I would say DA is better shaped for fingertip grip than G400, but both of them aren't shaped for it and they are pretty heavy for that grip as well.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *htda*
> 
> I have a couple of questions about the DA 2013 I hope someone could answer.
> 
> Is it lighter than the Logitech G400s? The g400's listed weight is 133g, but that's including cable. Is the DA2013's 104g with or without the cable?
> 
> Also, would you say the DA2013 is horrible for fingertip grip?


Coming from the two previous versions I had of the DeathAdder, the 2013 is certainly the lightest, and most ergonomic of the three for fingertip grip.

Personally, I feel the gripping on the lower sides, and the weight loss that happened with the 2013 model helped put it into that category, but at the same time, some people consider some mice too heavy for fingertip grip either way. I'd say test one out (if you can),. It's light enough and it would work for me if I used that play-style 100% of the time. However, I have large hands, where someone with small hands might not consider the DA of any variant to be a 'fingertip' mouse.


----------



## pedmunds

How does the original Deathadder compare to the later models? I'm thinking of buying an original one (in very good condition) on eBay for £20..


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pedmunds*
> 
> How does the original Deathadder compare to the later models? I'm thinking of buying an original one (in very good condition) on eBay for £20..


Heavy by today's standards, but a fantastic mouse.


----------



## pedmunds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Heavy by today's standards, but a fantastic mouse.


Thanks, it was local so I've picked it up already. It seems near-new condition...just teflon feet are slightly worn, but I guess those are easy to replace. Bargain for £20!


----------



## hiccup

After playing around with my Deathadder 3g (Guild Wars Edition), I can't go back to my DA 2013, at least not at CS:GO








The mouse movement feels so much more direct (Display 60Hz, Dell U2312HM), now I can understand why Roach was complaining about all mice with smoothing.
One thing I'd like to change are the switches on my DA 3g.

1. What OMRON switches would you guys recommend for replacement?
2. Is it also possible to replace the side button switches?

Thx


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiccup*
> 
> After playing around with my Deathadder 3g (Guild Wars Edition), I can't go back to my DA 2013, at least not at CS:GO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mouse movement feels so much more direct (Display 60Hz, Dell U2312HM), now I can understand why Roach was complaining about all mice with smoothing.
> One thing I'd like to change are the switches on my DA 3g.
> 
> 1. What OMRON switches would you guys recommend for replacement?
> 2. Is it also possible to replace the side button switches?
> 
> Thx


your DA has already Omron D2FC-F-7N.
if you want them to be crispier, you can go for Omron D2F-01F.
sidebuttons could be changed to Omron D2F-01-A1 if you can find those, or Omron D2F-01F-A1 if you want them to be as light as the mainbuttons.


----------



## hiccup

Ah thank you, will look in to it


----------



## Hackshot

Does calibrating the LoD with the DA 2013 affect it's sensor performance? If so, what would you guys estimate the max perfect control speed be at lowest LoD, using a Goliathus Speed?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pedmunds*
> 
> Thanks, it was local so I've picked it up already. It seems near-new condition...just teflon feet are slightly worn, but I guess those are easy to replace. Bargain for £20!


Yeah, if it's just feet, that's not a problem. The only thing that really bothers me on Razer products is when the plastic/matte/soft-touch paint gets scratched off.


----------



## RespawnCake

I'm having a problem with mouse cursor freezing..
Been using DA 2013 for 3-4 months without any problems.Yesterday i started to get some weird mouse cursor freezing.It would freeze for a 1-2 sec every once in a while(every 40-50 sec).I tried my old mouse and didn't had that problem so at least i'm sure it's not hardware related( fx6300,8gb ddr3,gtx760).

So far i tried most of the things from google search which includes deleting drivers,razer synapse etc. but didn't help anything.
Does anyone had any similar problem or maybe someone have any help tip?
Last thing i'm doing now i Scanning for any malware but i doubt that will help because like i said my other mouse is working properly


----------



## MechanimaL

is it possible to change the da2013 switches on mouse 1+2 to more responsive ones and which ones would you suggest? sometimes when using them rapidly i get stuck for half e second which feels like eternetiy then ingame ^^ and i dont have this problem with my 1.1 or other mice i tried.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RespawnCake*
> 
> I'm having a problem with mouse cursor freezing..
> Been using DA 2013 for 3-4 months without any problems.Yesterday i started to get some weird mouse cursor freezing.It would freeze for a 1-2 sec every once in a while(every 40-50 sec).I tried my old mouse and didn't had that problem so at least i'm sure it's not hardware related( fx6300,8gb ddr3,gtx760).
> 
> So far i tried most of the things from google search which includes deleting drivers,razer synapse etc. but didn't help anything.
> Does anyone had any similar problem or maybe someone have any help tip?
> Last thing i'm doing now i Scanning for any malware but i doubt that will help because like i said my other mouse is working properly


Try replacing mouse feet, worn out feet can cause tracking problems since the distance between lens-sensor is reduced.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> is it possible to change the da2013 switches on mouse 1+2 to more responsive ones and which ones would you suggest? sometimes when using them rapidly i get stuck for half e second which feels like eternetiy then ingame ^^ and i dont have this problem with my 1.1 or other mice i tried.


Sounds like a dying microswitch.

Try contact cleaner on the switch nub (white part that presses down)

Or replace with D2FC F 7N (10m) (20m) switch


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RespawnCake*
> 
> I'm having a problem with mouse cursor freezing..
> Been using DA 2013 for 3-4 months without any problems.Yesterday i started to get some weird mouse cursor freezing.It would freeze for a 1-2 sec every once in a while(every 40-50 sec).I tried my old mouse and didn't had that problem so at least i'm sure it's not hardware related( fx6300,8gb ddr3,gtx760).
> 
> So far i tried most of the things from google search which includes deleting drivers,razer synapse etc. but didn't help anything.
> Does anyone had any similar problem or maybe someone have any help tip?
> Last thing i'm doing now i Scanning for any malware but i doubt that will help because like i said my other mouse is working properly


I actually had a similar problem the moment I installed Synapse. Once I got rid of it it fixed it for me, but not sure what else it would be...I wouldn't think your feet are that bad already unless you're not using a mousepad at all. Might sound silly, but you've checked to make sure your sensor on the bottom is clean, right? Try a Q-Tip with alcohol.


----------



## MechanimaL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Sounds like a dying microswitch.
> 
> Try contact cleaner on the switch nub (white part that presses down)
> 
> Or replace with D2FC F 7N (10m) (20m) switch


i havent used it much so i would not think it's dying it might be there from the begining . in another place i saw an older deathadder and clicked the mouse buttons they felt better







have razer changed the switches or the style they are pushed?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> i havent used it much so i would not think it's dying it might be there from the begining . in another place i saw an older deathadder and clicked the mouse buttons they felt better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have razer changed the switches or the style they are pushed?


the shell maybe, but switches are the same for all gaming mouse (omrons are factory standard)


----------



## Toxsick

Anyone knows why my deathadder 2013 feels so slow and sluggish compared to my G9?
it just feels so slower.. im playing at 1800 DPI. tried mixing up with the settings in snyapse 1800 dpi doesnt seem to go that fast compared to my g9, probably because of the lasor sensor the g9 has?
to be fair it feels just slow and unresponsive overall compared to my old g9.. im little bit confused the shape of the DA is 'ok' but the sensor feels weird... its like i have no controll over it at all..

Mousepad is Steelseries 9HD.


----------



## Blashyrkh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toxsick*
> 
> Anyone knows why my deathadder 2013 feels so slow and sluggish compared to my G9?
> it just feels so slower.. im playing at 1800 DPI. tried mixing up with the settings in snyapse 1800 dpi doesnt seem to go that fast compared to my g9, probably because of the lasor sensor the g9 has?
> to be fair it feels just slow and unresponsive overall compared to my old g9.. im little bit confused the shape of the DA is 'ok' but the sensor feels weird... its like i have no controll over it at all..
> 
> Mousepad is Steelseries 9HD.


I noticed that in windows with the RAT MMO7

i had to crank up DPI to 3000, while keeping the MMO7 at 2500 to have the same speed feeling.
I think this is due to the smoothness many are talking about.

actually i'm now using the G502...it blows away any other mouse i had


----------



## Toxsick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blashyrkh*
> 
> I noticed that in windows with the RAT MMO7
> 
> i had to crank up DPI to 3000, while keeping the MMO7 at 2500 to have the same speed feeling.
> I think this is due to the smoothness many are talking about.
> 
> actually i'm now using the G502...it blows away any other mouse i had


is the g502 compareable to the G9?


----------



## Blashyrkh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toxsick*
> 
> is the g502 compareable to the G9?


sensorwise?


----------



## Toxsick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blashyrkh*
> 
> sensorwise?


yes or movement wise?


----------



## Shift_

So I own a V2...according to the OP, owned it since new...must of bought it...well a very long time ago (has even moved with me to different countries and cities!)

I've honestly never given it a proper clean, just a bit of a damp cloth and wipe off anything. But I'd like to give it a proper clean what is everyone doing to clean their DAs?


----------



## Blashyrkh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toxsick*
> 
> yes or movement wise?


what do you mean movement wise?

sensor wise, there's absolutely no comparison, the 12000dpi delta zero is maybe something that will not be beatable for years.
no acceleration, no smoothnes, no dpi scaling, tons of dpi (actually they are too much), laser-like surface tracking capabilities, and obviously top notch precision.

the shape and weight is something you must try for yourself.
the g9 is maybe the best shape for me, it's wider and shorter, i liked it with the big cover much more than the g502.
but i can handle the g502 at high levels of comfort even if it is less wide. actually comfortable shape in normal conditions doesn't mean better grip or more comfortable to use in game....
the g502 is the best during high peaced action games

the sniper button can be bothersome for many, but with my grip i can't even press it in normal condition.


----------



## JackCY

G502 seems to have quite a few quality issues. New mice scratched from factory, imbalanced wheels that vibrate or make noise, etc.
They seem to return not so rarely here in shops from comments I read due to poor quality of a not so cheap mouse.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shift_*
> 
> So I own a V2...according to the OP, owned it since new...must of bought it...well a very long time ago (has even moved with me to different countries and cities!)
> 
> I've honestly never given it a proper clean, just a bit of a damp cloth and wipe off anything. But I'd like to give it a proper clean what is everyone doing to clean their DAs?


If you don't favor taking it a part, an old soft bristled toothbrush would be good for getting those hard to reach areas. I'd be careful with the 'soft touch' type of material as it scratches easily (I'm sure this is obvious after your many years of ownership). Some compressed air wouldn't hurt, and a room temperature water-dampened rag wouldn't hurt. I'm weary of using alcohol on mine, but others may have more experience.


----------



## Soulfire

Hey guys,

Pretty simple question, looking for experiences from you guys; have the microswitches in your DAs gotten easier or harder to click as you've used the mouse?

I have a feeling that my old DeathAdder BE's clicks got to be much more sensitive (easier to click) over the years that I used the mouse, and now I'm having trouble replacing the mouse with another DA BE because the left click always feels so hard.

Thanks guys!


----------



## bobola

those with 2013 deathadder, is your side rubber where your thumb rest wearing off?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soulfire*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Pretty simple question, looking for experiences from you guys; have the microswitches in your DAs gotten easier or harder to click as you've used the mouse?
> 
> I have a feeling that my old DeathAdder BE's clicks got to be much more sensitive (easier to click) over the years that I used the mouse, and now I'm having trouble replacing the mouse with another DA BE because the left click always feels so hard.
> 
> Thanks guys!


Hmmm, I've been through 3 DeathAdders (not quality issues, just eventually upgraded each time) and I couldn't say. If it did, it happens at a very slight rate to where I don't notice it. However, each time I've gotten a new mouse, I did feel it needed to be 'broken in'.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobola*
> 
> those with 2013 deathadder, is your side rubber where your thumb rest wearing off?


Mine will build up some dirt, but after a good warm water/alcohol cleanse, it looks good as new. At worst it might be a tad faded. I'll take a closer look tonight.


----------



## Zero4549

I haven't had any issue with using rubbing alcohol on my BE. I do have a little wear on the area where my index and middle fingers touch though. The spots still have rubber, but it is thinner, slightly different texture, and darker color.


----------



## etre

I made the mistake to clean my mouse also with alcohol, and now the rubber is peeled off on some portions.
My mouse is a Razer Diamondback 3G, which has the same sensor as one of the Deathadders, if I am not mistaken. The sensor is Avago S3688, 1800dpi.

I know this is not exactly the same mouse, but is quite similar in some regards.

Anyway, I am looking for a replacement and after reading a s..t load of forum threads about all the aspects surrounding the gaming mice I am still baffled and nowhere near to a firm conclusion. It's like when I try to flash a custom rom on my android phone and I start reading again XDA. There are a myriad of factors to consider, that will take days to make an educated decision.

Furthermore, the quality of the mice seem to vary greatly even for the same manufacturer, from generation to generation, or even from batch to batch.

I still have my old WMO, with all the paint off, the rubber on the side buttons is barely there anymore and still, that thing works perfectly after more then 15 years.
Also, my Razer Diamondback 3G is in perfect condition, except for the rubber coating.

And then, I got a SS Xai. Jittery performance on black cloth pads (Qck mini) and one button failed (double click) after few months of light use (I was switching it for the Razer, trying to decide which one I like the most). I tested also another laser mouse, but for me, optical seem more reliable.

And now, 3090 sensor I read that it has LoD problems. 3310 and 3366 seems the way to go, but this sensors are in expensive mice ... I don't feel like buying an expensive mouse for a whim.

I wonder if there is any reason to upgrade.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *etre*
> 
> I made the mistake to clean my mouse also with alcohol, and now the rubber is peeled off on some portions.
> My mouse is a Razer Diamondback 3G, which has the same sensor as one of the Deathadders, if I am not mistaken. The sensor is Avago S3688, 1800dpi.
> 
> I know this is not exactly the same mouse, but is quite similar in some regards.
> 
> Anyway, I am looking for a replacement and after reading a s..t load of forum threads about all the aspects surrounding the gaming mice I am still baffled and nowhere near to a firm conclusion. It's like when I try to flash a custom rom on my android phone and I start reading again XDA. There are a myriad of factors to consider, that will take days to make an educated decision.
> 
> Furthermore, the quality of the mice seem to vary greatly even for the same manufacturer, from generation to generation, or even from batch to batch.
> 
> I still have my old WMO, with all the paint off, the rubber on the side buttons is barely there anymore and still, that thing works perfectly after more then 15 years.
> Also, my Razer Diamondback 3G is in perfect condition, except for the rubber coating.
> 
> And then, I got a SS Xai. Jittery performance on black cloth pads (Qck mini) and one button failed (double click) after few months of light use (I was switching it for the Razer, trying to decide which one I like the most). I tested also another laser mouse, but for me, optical seem more reliable.
> 
> And now, 3090 sensor I read that it has LoD problems. 3310 and 3366 seems the way to go, but this sensors are in expensive mice ... I don't feel like buying an expensive mouse for a whim.
> 
> I wonder if there is any reason to upgrade.


Honestly, I upgraded to the 2013 because I knew I was going to eventually get the BWU 2013. Silly, but oh well. However, both my OG DeathAdder, and DeathAdder Black Edition are still going strong and being used by my brother and best friend. A mouse is a hard thing to recommend sometimes, as it can get a little personal, and personally, I like my DeathAdders







.


----------



## kantxcape

Anyone knows if Razer is going to released a new version of the Deathadder (with a better sensor, the 3310 for example)?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kantxcape*
> 
> Anyone knows if Razer is going to released a new version of the Deathadder (with a better sensor, the 3310 for example)?


forget it.
the sensor of the DA 2013 is a "better" sensor for razer than the 3310 already, and is also not any older either.


----------



## Merenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kantxcape*
> 
> Anyone knows if Razer is going to released a new version of the Deathadder (with a better sensor, the 3310 for example)?


I wish but I kinda doubt it they might try to counter Logitech 12000 dpi optical knowing razer there probably have something in the works if they do hopefully this time it don't have crappy tracking like death 2k13


----------



## catbuster

Hi guys, my oldschool DA 1800dpi started to double click with right click. I love the shape of DA, but seems 2k13 is not good mouse to upgrade. Or this is just hate on razer spread on forums xD


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Hi guys, my oldschool DA 1800dpi started to double click with right click. I love the shape of DA, but seems 2k13 is not good mouse to upgrade. Or this is just hate on razer spread on forums xD


Buy: www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-Micro-Switch-OMRON-D2FC-F-7N-10M-For-Mouse-New-/201144421379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed5244c03


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Hi guys, my oldschool DA 1800dpi started to double click with right click. I love the shape of DA, but seems 2k13 is not good mouse to upgrade. Or this is just hate on razer spread on forums xD


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Buy: www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-Micro-Switch-OMRON-D2FC-F-7N-10M-For-Mouse-New-/201144421379?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed5244c03


Clean and lube the switch before you replace it. Less work, less money, less chance of screwing up your solder job.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Clean and lube the switch before you replace it. Less work, less money, less chance of screwing up your solder job.


Is where any guide/tutorial for this?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Is where any guide/tutorial for this?


I'm not sure. When I did it for the first time, I looked for guides, and there were just a few youtube clips, single photos, little text snippets etc. all about one or another particular aspect, of one particular switch, on one particular mouse. Nothing complete. Was a few years ago though.

I decided that I couldn't kill it any worse than it already was though, and gave it a shot. Wasn't too hard to figure out once I started.

From personal experience, opening that particular deathadder requires removal of the two top small teflon feet, and either removal, or puncturing through the large sticker on the bottom half of the mouse (the hole is about 1cm directly above the top center of the bottom teflon foot. If you press the area with firm pressure with your finger, you should be able to feel it), in order to gain access to three screws that hold the shell together.

Once screws are removed, gently pry the two halves apart, but be careful not to rip the soldered on cables connecting the top and bottom PCBs.
Open it up like a book, and use a screwdriver to detach at least one of the PCBs from its side of the shell, so that you can gain unfettered access to the internals.

If I recall correctly, all the microswitches are mounted in the upper PCB, and you will need to remove that PCB to access them. All the microswitches have a plastic snap on cover which can be removed via a latch on the side. Try using something like DeoxIT D5 on the still-assembled switch before opening it, if you aren't confident with your fine motor skills, etc. Once you open the switch, you must make sure to put the tiny pieces back exactly as it was. You want to clean any physical debris from the plastic button, and then use a contact cleaner on the metal leaf. You also may need to bend the metal leaf a bit as over time they can fatigue but be very careful if you attempt this. There are some guides on this particular aspect.

While you're in there, flush out the mechanical encoder wheel with some contact cleaner too. Also, if you lube one switch, you're gonna wanna lube the other as well, otherwise the clicks will feel uneven. Make sure you keep the liquid away from the optical encoder. They aren't very good friends, and tend to not play nicely together.

Put everything together again and you're set. Also be careful of the little profile switch button, screws, and also the plastic optical lense. they like to fall out when you open the DA and can get easily lost.

Do yourself a favor and apply some new mouse feet when you're done. If you're really careful removing them with a razor or utility knife, you might be able to save the old ones, but they probably won't feel quite right so you might as well upgrade to some new, unworn ones, and give your venerable gaming companion a nice factory-new (or better, really, as the stock feet are too damn thin!) feel.


----------



## xxgamxx

Ah, seemed about the right time for problems.

My Deathadder 2013 is now not registering some scroll clicks (middle mouse click) and sometimes it double clicks. Anyone have a similar problem with their 7 month old DA?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> Ah, seemed about the right time for problems.
> 
> My Deathadder 2013 is now not registering some scroll clicks (middle mouse click) and sometimes it double clicks. Anyone have a similar problem with their 7 month old DA?


No issues, and I have a DA 2013 from release.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> My Deathadder 2013 is now not registering some scroll clicks (middle mouse click) and sometimes it double clicks. Anyone have a similar problem with their 7 month old DA?


Mine started to double click after 12 months. I sent it to RMA.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> No issues, and I have a DA 2013 from release.


The golden batch. It's funny though, I rarely use middle click besides the obvious chrome use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> Mine started to double click after 12 months. I sent it to RMA.


Did they replace yours (received refurbished?) or just fix it?


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> The golden batch. It's funny though, I rarely use middle click besides the obvious chrome use.
> Did they replace yours (received refurbished?) or just fix it?


Razer CS told me to return it to the store. So I expect to receive a new mouse next week.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zalbard*
> 
> Razer CS told me to return it to the store. So I expect to receive a new mouse next week.


That's odd, they told me to return it to them. Why on earth would they want someone to return it to a store, what if you bought it second hand? (rhetorical question).

Edit: Just noticed you're in Germany, that explains everything. I'm in California, only 30 mins away from their RMA center, so of course they want it back haha.


----------



## xxgamxx

So I sent mine in for an RMA. Bought a Razer from Best Buy temporarily (15 day return policy) and noticed immediately that the coating for the main part of the mouse is way different than when I bought mine. It's a lot more like the DA 3.5Gs old new coating. The one I recieved new in late 2013 was a lot more bumpy and rocky which definitely helped with the sweaty palms. This one is more soft touch. Not sure which I prefered now to be honest.


----------



## MechanimaL

hey guys, maybe someone can give ma a short advice: my windows update presents me an "optional" update for the deathadder. it says nov2013 original date of the file and may14 releasedate. what is this? I have synapse running and up to date, so what should I do, just ignore it?


----------



## xxgamxx

Just recieved my refurbed DA 2013 back. Feels a lot more "tougher" in the clicks and the scroll wheel is definitely needs a lot more effort to scroll than my first DA and the temp DA i bought from Best Buy . Not sure if I like it yet....


----------



## justyourimage

I'm by no means a Razer fanboy but I just came across this on YouTube and had to share that Mouse-Porn with you:


----------



## Konkistadori

I have 5 working 1800dpi deathadders, one is v2 model i guess pcb didn't fit newer ones. I like the switch feel on V2 deathadder.
sixth deathadder got broken wheel... plastic part broken, if some one has broken dadder send me that scroll wheel









And i use SS Sensei mousefeets.


----------



## leothelion

Is the clicks any harder to press than on the first version? I'm looking for a new mouse but I remember the click being hyper sensitivite on the first Deathadder which made me click it by accident when swiping/lifting the mouse. If it's still like that it's not a mouse for me. I liked everything else about it though.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leothelion*
> 
> Is the clicks any harder to press than on the first version? I'm looking for a new mouse but I remember the click being hyper sensitivite on the first Deathadder which made me click it by accident when swiping/lifting the mouse. If it's still like that it's not a mouse for me. I liked everything else about it though.


The very first version? As in the pre-revision 3G?

Yeah, the clicks have been less sensitive since literally a few _months_ after that version was released. Personally, I still prefer that version... too bad they no longer make them


----------



## pez

My OG DA finally bit the dust on my friend recently. Right click finally stopped registering without a pretty immense pressure.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My OG DA finally bit the dust on my friend recently. Right click finally stopped registering without a pretty immense pressure.


How long did she last?


----------



## Zero4549

Open em up, clean out the switches and wheel, bend them back into shape if needed, lube them up, and put it all back.

Unless something is physically broken, it will work (almost) like new.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Open em up, clean out the switches and wheel, bend them back into shape if needed, lube them up, and put it all back.
> 
> Unless something is physically broken, it will work (almost) like new.


Or you could just be like me and buy a truck load of them, so when one dies, you can just swap to the next one.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> Or you could just be like me and buy a truck load of them, so when one dies, you can just swap to the next one.


Or... you could save the cost of like 30 extra mice, and just service yours once every 2-5 years as needed for half the cost of a pack of replacement mouse feet? *shrug*


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Or... you could save the cost of like 30 extra mice, and just service yours once every 2-5 years as needed for half the cost of a pack of replacement mouse feet? *shrug*


NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivineDark*
> 
> How long did she last?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Open em up, clean out the switches and wheel, bend them back into shape if needed, lube them up, and put it all back.
> 
> Unless something is physically broken, it will work (almost) like new.


I considered it, but idk if he's thrown the mouse away yet. It was his b-day recently so I got him a 2013 (sucks that the Chroma just came out/got announced now). However, since it's the OG, the 'softtouch' is half there, looks awful, and the awful glossy-ness of it is scratched and worn. It was time. I believe that mouse is AT LEAST 6 years old. I bought it before college. It was a trooper, and may it RIP.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I considered it, but idk if he's thrown the mouse away yet. It was his b-day recently so I got him a 2013 (sucks that the Chroma just came out/got announced now). However, since it's the OG, the 'softtouch' is half there, looks awful, and the awful glossy-ness of it is scratched and worn. It was time. I believe that mouse is AT LEAST 6 years old. I bought it before college. It was a trooper, and may it RIP.


The soft touch on my original is only missing a small spot where my ex decided it would be a good idea to dig her fingernail into. Glossy sides are still glossy... Guess I'm just really careful with my stuff.

That said, you can recoat the top in plasti-dip, and hit the sides too since you don't seem to like the glossy finish anyway. Just sand them a bit first.


----------



## DivineDark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I considered it, but idk if he's thrown the mouse away yet. It was his b-day recently so I got him a 2013 (sucks that the Chroma just came out/got announced now). However, since it's the OG, the 'softtouch' is half there, looks awful, and the awful glossy-ness of it is scratched and worn. It was time. I believe that mouse is AT LEAST 6 years old. I bought it before college. It was a trooper, and may it RIP.


That mouse had a good life. Much longer than most mice out there that aren't stamped with the Logitech logo.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> The soft touch on my original is only missing a small spot where my ex decided it would be a good idea to dig her fingernail into. Glossy sides are still glossy... Guess I'm just really careful with my stuff.
> 
> That said, you can recoat the top in plasti-dip, and hit the sides too since you don't seem to like the glossy finish anyway. Just sand them a bit first.


I guess. Just not worth so much to do it anymore. It's pretty beat up from my friend's end.


----------



## runtheon

ive got a very old wrecked Deathadder 3Gv3, however I couldn't find anything to replace it.
Sidekeys are broken out and screws are wrecked, the wheel is rarely doublescrolling.
And that after years of extreme gaming









Anyone knows a symetric alternative, 3g sensor is just op?

PS: here a pic from a old digicam without filter for the sensor light


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Open em up, clean out the switches and wheel, bend them back into shape if needed, lube them up, and put it all back.
> 
> Unless something is physically broken, it will work (almost) like new.


What's the best place to look for replacement like cover? My original DA 3.5's grip is completely worn so I would love to replace it.


----------



## ronal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> What's the best place to look for replacement like cover? My original DA 3.5's grip is completely worn so I would love to replace it.


I bought mine from them, they are legit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-3500dpi-3-5G-Mouse-Shell-Cover-Replacement-outer-case-covering-/281305956169?pt=Mice&hash=item417f243f49


----------



## Infinite Jest

My DA:BE has started to develop an issue with the right click where A. It is less clicky, and B. Even resting my finger on that portion will often activate the right click with very little force. Does this sound like the switch is going or might this be salvageable?


----------



## ronal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> My DA:BE has started to develop an issue with the right click where A. It is less clicky, and B. Even resting my finger on that portion will often activate the right click with very little force. Does this sound like the switch is going or might this be salvageable?


Open up the mouse and check under the right click to see if the piece that actuates the switch didn't crack off from all the years of usage, if not then buy new switches and solder them in.


----------



## xxgamxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronal*
> 
> I bought mine from them, they are legit.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-3500dpi-3-5G-Mouse-Shell-Cover-Replacement-outer-case-covering-/281305956169?pt=Mice&hash=item417f243f49


How hard is this to replace?


----------



## ronal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxgamxx*
> 
> How hard is this to replace?


Takes literally 5-10 min max. Remove the screws on top that are under the mouse skates, the third screw is above the bottom skate where it says "Patent Pending", just use tour finger and scan the that location and you'll find it, then its a matter of removing the housing and putting the new one in and putting everything back together. Also when I ordered mine it came with a brand new set of mouse skates. Good luck!!!


----------



## e4stw00t

Just curios is the Chroma some sort of special edition or will we not see a genuine 2015 edition later this year?


----------



## DivineDark

I'm pretty certain the Chroma DA is the edition following up the 2013. Frys are sold out of the 2013 and they are only getting Chromas in.


----------



## sandywind

Just a confirmation: can one switch off all lights with the legacy drivers in 3.5g and retain that setting without drivers installed? I tried, but it doesn't work.


----------



## Nafu

i have Razer DA 3.5G, worked flawless, 2 years but after that its *left click giving problem*, its missing clicks while gaming, even on desktop it missing and unresponsive, *have to click 2, 3 times hard*. I dont know what to do.............now.

any suggestion guys, how to fix it................


----------



## hasukka

Hey, which drivers/firmware I should use with a 3.5G razer DA? Kinda want the firmware that removes prediction, I remember there was a version when I had the mouse back in the day.


----------



## Nafu

what you have problem with latest driver version>


----------



## Torongo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nafu*
> 
> i have Razer DA 3.5G, worked flawless, 2 years but after that its *left click giving problem*, its missing clicks while gaming, even on desktop it missing and unresponsive, *have to click 2, 3 times hard*. I dont know what to do.............now.
> 
> any suggestion guys, how to fix it................


First of all, try to open your DA to see where is the problem. Try focusing on top shell switch activator (that part which presses on switch) and the switch itself. If it's pretty normal then it's switch fault. There are numerous tutorials how to clean them.


----------



## Tennobanzai

Is it possible to remove the braiding/sleeving on the cord?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Is it possible to remove the braiding/sleeving on the cord?


Possible? Sure. Not easy though. Much easier to just get a non-braided cable and swap it in.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai*
> 
> Is it possible to remove the braiding/sleeving on the cord?


it is, with the 3.5G cable at least, but takes quite some time, so i did it only to the first 40cm which come out of the mouse.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Possible? Sure. Not easy though. Much easier to just get a non-braided cable and swap it in.


but you wouldn't find a better cable, once you debraided the 3.5G cable.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> it is, with the 3.5G cable at least, but takes quite some time, so i did it only to the first 40cm which come out of the mouse.
> but you wouldn't find a better cable, once you debraided the 3.5G cable.


Theres nothing wrong with the non-braided cables from older deathadders (pre 2012 I believe?). They're basically identical to the new ones, sans braid. There are a lot of people with "broken" or unwanted deathadders you can snag a cable off of.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Theres nothing wrong with the non-braided cables from older deathadders (pre 2012 I believe?). They're basically identical to the new ones, sans braid. There are a lot of people with "broken" or unwanted deathadders you can snag a cable off of.


sure, they would be also nice, but if you are impatient, you can get it done in the next 30mins or so with your current mouse.


----------



## Aluc13

For fixing the clicking issue I saw that I need electronics cleaner, what's a good one to buy? I wasn't sure which one to get at all and I want to be sure. Other than that my Deathadder has been awesome.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> For fixing the clicking issue I saw that I need electronics cleaner, what's a good one to buy? I wasn't sure which one to get at all and I want to be sure. Other than that my Deathadder has been awesome.


DeoxIT D5 is what you want.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> DeoxIT D5 is what you want.


Thanks. I'll be buying that the next time I show up at radioshack.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Thanks. I'll be buying that the next time I show up at radioshack.


Radioshack rebrands it as something else at some locations. Don't remember the name, but be aware.

EDIT: found it. http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-anti-corrosive-lubricant-spray/6400057.html

This is the exact same stuff as DeoxIT D5, just rebranded.


----------



## HITTI

I have the deathadder 2013.

Do you guys find sometimes when you bootup to win7 login screen the mouse does not work and must be unplugged for 10-15 seconds and plugged back in, and even sometimes that don't work as logging into win7 after typing password, it starts working, and even sometimes after login of win7, the mouse doesn't work for atleast 10 seconds?

I am finding this very irritating.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> I have the deathadder 2013.
> 
> Do you guys find sometimes when you bootup to win7 login screen the mouse does not work and must be unplugged for 10-15 seconds and plugged back in, and even sometimes that don't work as logging into win7 after typing password, it starts working, and even sometimes after login of win7, the mouse doesn't work for atleast 10 seconds?
> 
> I am finding this very irritating.


I've often heard that is an issue with synapse 2.0

Can't tell you first hand though.


----------



## Aluc13

That happens to my keyboard. It hasn't happened to my mouse though. My keyboard is also a razr product


----------



## phamtom

Can you put the DA.BE internals on a DA 2013?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamtom*
> 
> Can you put the DA.BE internals on a DA 2013?


Buy me one of each and I'll let you know









On a more serious note, you probably could, but you would have to file/cut off some bits, and perhaps add some padding in other areas. The PCBs from what I've seen aren't the same size/shape.


----------



## zulk

I just swapped back from da be to the 2013, I know that people complain about the smoothing issue on the 2013, but the 2013 on 400 dpi feels more natural than the 450dpi on the da be.

just my 2 cents but my flicks shots are more accurate on the 2013 than the da be at 450 dpi


----------



## Aventadoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zulk*
> 
> I just swapped back from da be to the 2013, I know that people complain about the smoothing issue on the 2013, but the 2013 on 400 dpi feels more natural than the 450dpi on the da be.
> 
> just my 2 cents but my flicks shots are more accurate on the 2013 than the da be at 450 dpi


Then the question is:
Is DA BE better @ 1800 dpi? vs DA2013 at any dpi


----------



## Toxsick

just got the deathadder chroma, though one thing that i noticed when i shake the mouse from side to side i hear a loose scroll wheel,its not really that lose or makes noise while gaming but i just noticed this.. when shaking the mouse decently i heard it though. anyone else has this with their deathadders?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toxsick*
> 
> just got the deathadder chroma, though one thing that i noticed when i shake the mouse from side to side i hear a loose scroll wheel,its not really that lose or makes noise while gaming but i just noticed this.. when shaking the mouse decently i heard it though. anyone else has this with their deathadders?


The scroll wheel is only attached on one side, and simply rests on the microswitch on the other, held down by gravity and guided by a channel in the top of the shell. Without gravity (or if you overcome it with a greater force) it is free to move up and down that channel, causing what you are hearing.


----------



## Toxsick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> The scroll wheel is only attached on one side, and simply rests on the microswitch on the other, held down by gravity and guided by a channel in the top of the shell. Without gravity (or if you overcome it with a greater force) it is free to move up and down that channel, causing what you are hearing.


Alright thanks for that.

another problem seems to be the polling rate, its on 500hz atm, and Mouse Rate keeps showing this polling rate.
even though changed it to 1000hz but it doesnt seem to change at mouse rate program..



i do feel a difference though when changing them... 1000hz feels more slower then 500hz


----------



## phamtom

Oh well that's a shame :c , thanks anyway


----------



## erobuR

That might be windows 8.1 bug? Can you confirm?


----------



## Toxsick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erobuR*
> 
> That might be windows 8.1 bug? Can you confirm?


tried with other software. and it worked.

seems mouse rater didnt work for me.


----------



## Toxsick

Well, it seems mine is already broken, it already starts to double click on my right click... this has to be a joke right?


----------



## Zero4549

Girlfriend bought me a Chroma. Will be arriving soon.

Never used either the 2013 or the Chroma before, so I'll finally get to see first hand how it stacks against my Black Edition, 3.5g, 3g v2, and 3g original, and hybrids.

I know it won't be news but I'll post my opinions anyway. I doubt many people have had as many Deathadders, or got to know them as intimately as I have (pervs), so it might be useful to some of you.

That said, I will not be opening it up until the warranty expires or something breaks that Razer won't cover - whichever happens first - so please no asking me to make a hybrid with it and an older model, or any other internal related stuff, unless you are willing to ship me a spare first







.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Girlfriend bought me a Chroma. Will be arriving soon.
> 
> Never used either the 2013 or the Chroma before, so I'll finally get to see first hand how it stacks against my Black Edition, 3.5g, 3g v2, and 3g original, and hybrids.
> 
> I know it won't be news but I'll post my opinions anyway. I doubt many people have had as many Deathadders, or got to know them as intimately as I have (pervs), so it might be useful to some of you.
> 
> That said, I will not be opening it up until the warranty expires or something breaks that Razer won't cover - whichever happens first - so please no asking me to make a hybrid with it and an older model, or any other internal related stuff, unless you are willing to ship me a spare first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've used every single DA. I prefer the Deathadder 2013/Chroma over the older ones.


----------



## pez

Like you, I've had an OG (3G, I believe), BE, and now a 2013. Curious to know what you think. If it's as light as the 2013, I think you'll appreciate that. That's the single best thing I loved about going to the 2013. That and the better coating.


----------



## YEESUS

Hi new forum member here, i joined to ask this question specifically.
Now there are 150+ pages here, so i'm not going to lie and say I've read through them all.

But from what i have read, i can gather that all Deathadders run best at 1800Dpi 500Hz?
Mine is the Black Edition (*stock*).

I use it on PC and with a device called the XIM4 which allows me to use mouse & keyboard on XBOX360, X1 / PS3, PS4.
One of the recommendations when using this device is that you use your mouses fullest DPI and Hz settings.

Now to the Question/s:

- If i have been using the driver on PC will that effect how the mouse runs when not plugged into the PC, *e.g* the XIM4?
If so is there a way to revert the mouse or download a specific firmware that will allow the mouse to run optimally?

- In a nutshell i'm looking for my mouse to run the very best it can. e.g no prediction or acceleration if possible.
I'm completely fine with lift of distance as it's never bothered me so far, does scotch tape really work? Without skipping?

I've been looking everywhere for a new mouse but no matter what i use, i always come back to the Deathadder.
Nothing else fits my hand as good as this mouse, my hand literally rejects every other mouse it touches.

So I've decided to get used to what i have and try to have it working in its best possible state.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YEESUS*
> 
> Hi new forum member here, i joined to ask this question specifically.
> Now there are 150+ pages here, so i'm not going to lie and say I've read through them all.
> 
> But from what i have read, i can gather that all Deathadders run best at 1800Dpi 500Hz?
> Mine is the Black Edition (*stock*).
> 
> I use it on PC and with a device called the XIM4 which allows me to use mouse & keyboard on XBOX360, X1 / PS3, PS4.
> One of the recommendations when using this device is that you use your mouses fullest DPI and Hz settings.
> 
> Now to the Question/s:
> 
> - If i have been using the driver on PC will that effect how the mouse runs when not plugged into the PC, *e.g* the XIM4?
> If so is there a way to revert the mouse or download a specific firmware that will allow the mouse to run optimally?
> 
> - In a nutshell i'm looking for my mouse to run the very best it can. e.g no prediction or acceleration if possible.
> I'm completely fine with lift of distance as it's never bothered me so far, does scotch tape really work? Without skipping?
> 
> I've been looking everywhere for a new mouse but no matter what i use, i always come back to the Deathadder.
> Nothing else fits my hand as good as this mouse, my hand literally rejects every other mouse it touches.
> 
> So I've decided to get used to what i have and try to have it working in its best possible state.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Consoles can't use mouse controls properly. The XIM4 Emulates analoug stick movement, so as long as you are comfortable with your mouse, and it isn't skipping or doing something seriously wrong, that is all that matters. Even with all the worst options, your black edition is still "pretty good", which is well above the standard of quality needed for XIM4.

With that out of the way, focus on getting the mouse how you like it on PC.

1000Hz is better, but only if your system can poll at 1000 steadily. If you have a lot of polling rate jitter at 1000 (common on older motherboards, boards with cheap USB controllers, certain operating systems, and when you simply have wayyyy too many things plugged in via USB, etc), dropping to 500Hz will be more consistant and generally better. Check your polling rate and find out which option is best for you.

1800 DPI has the best tracking on the original 3g, revision 3g, 3.5g, black edition, and all of their varients. I don't know about the 2013 or Chroma.

Yes, scotch tape really does work for reducing LOD. As for having adverse effects, that depends mostly on your mouse surface. With tape, my 3g V2 won't track at all on my Monoprice "alumnium" pad, tracks mostly correct on my no-name cloth pad, and tracks absolutly flawlessly on my Razer Goliathus.


----------



## Redeemer

Razer DeathAdder 2013 Edition 4G, picking one up today for $45. My couple year old deathadder Black edition has served me very well and will be missed


----------



## YEESUS

@Zero4549 Thank you very much for the detailed reply








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redeemer*
> 
> Razer DeathAdder 2013 Edition 4G, picking one up today for $45. My couple year old deathadder Black edition has served me very well and will be missed


Is this the best Death Adder out of them all?


----------



## AnimalK

If any Canadians are looking to buy either a Deathadder 3.5G or a Deathadder 2013, they are on sale at Canada Computers if you can find any left.


----------



## SLOWION

I just picked up my first ever Razer product, the DeathAdder Chroma













^^^ my thoughts on the mouse







It's a pretty good looking mouse overall IMO


----------



## Zero4549

Got my Chroma in today. Haven't used it or disassembled yet, but my first impressions from looking/holding it are as follows:

PROS:

I really like the rubber side grips. Much better than the glossy sides on the 3G, 3.5G, Left handed, and co-branded (guild wars, transformers, etc) Deathadders. Better than the slightly rubberized coating on the black edition too, but not quite as huge of a difference (at least once the black edition is broken in a bit. when it is new the BE feels awful)!

I also really like the the way the new side buttons are attached. The old style was very sloppy, leaving a lot of play in all directions, and prone to fatigue and eventually failure. I don't see this being a problem with this new style.

Cable is much much more flexible.

Mouse wheel steps/notches are much more pronounced than older versions.

Left and right click finally feel even. Right click always required more force on previous versions.

It looks like a Deathadder. Deathadders look cool.

You can change the lights. Obviously.

CONS:

Not a fan of the new textured bottom. The smooth bottom on previous versions allowed easier non-standard mouse skate placement.

Really not a fan of the new textured hard plastic surfaces. I prefer literally all the other surfaces the DA has ever had over this. Glossy felt better. Lightly rubberized felt better, heavily rubberized felt better. Yuck!

All the top switches feel worse. Even my most used Deathadder (3G version 2, eventually transplanted into a BE shell, but still the same switches) has better feeling switches after all this time. The new switches require slightly more force (in reality, it is probably that my old worn in switches simply need less than they used to, so no fault here) but at the same time have less tactile response than the old ones (this part is definitely an issue. My old switches are _ancient_ and have lost much of their tactility / precision feel when actuated compared to when new. The brand new switches in the Chroma should feel much, much more responsive when in reality they feel even mushier!).

While the side switches feel tighter and more precise (which is good, but I think this is actually due to the attachment method of the buttons as mentioned in the PROS), the actuation requires significantly more force (which is bad, IMO. I don't missclick. My mouse should obey my hand, not second guess it. I suppose others might disagree).

Mouse wheel shape and material, while cooler looking, are inferior. It has less grip and thus is less tolerant of misalignment between wheel and the finger scrolling it. This is actually very pronounced. With my old wheels, I can scroll with my finger not even on the wheel but rather just next to it. With the new wheel, even top scrolling requires fairly precise alignment in order to not skip at all. For heavier handed people, especially with wide fingers, I imagine it could cause a lot of accidental left/right clicking. For people with skinny fingers and a light touch like myself, it might mean skipped scrolls in frantic moments where alignment isnt perfect.

You can now click the main buttons from even further back on the mouse than before. Personally I don't see this as a problem, but a LOT of users complained in the past about it being too easy to accidently click the main buttons using their palms. I imagine for those users, this would be even worse than before.

Comparing them with the lights off, the older DAs looked better. The rubber sides break the clean aesthetic, and there are a LOT more visible seams on the bottom and front. I especially prefer color on the top coating for the black edition, and the classier black logo, but that part is subjective I suppose.

Braiding on the cable is less smooth.


----------



## exitone

Nice to see razer go for a more classy packaging that doesn't say 10k dpi sensor. Maybe they will stop using cheap plastic for their mice in the future


----------



## jprovido

this is my third deathadder. I just bought this deathadder 2013 last july and the left click is already giving out. damn razer! if only I can find another mouse that I like sadly the deathadder is perfect for my hands


----------



## erobuR

da 3.5g coating is way for better than 2013 coating for my taste.


----------



## OkanG

Does anyone have experience with modding the Deathadder 2013 LEDs? I want to swap them out with some white ones, but I don't know which size and if it's easy to do.


----------



## metal571

EC1 EVO is supposedly a similar but more comfortable shape


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> Nice to see razer go for a more classy packaging that doesn't say 10k dpi sensor. Maybe they will stop using cheap plastic for their mice in the future


10k dpi is listed on the back.

All companies use "cheap plastic", and the same switches too. A few use aluminium, sure, but that simply makes the mouse heavier and harder to grip (and a pain to use in the winter!)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> this is my third deathadder. I just bought this deathadder 2013 last july and the left click is already giving out. damn razer! if only I can find another mouse that I like sadly the deathadder is perfect for my hands


I seriously don't understand why everyone would rather buy a new mouse constantly than just repair theirs for dirt cheap and learn to maintain it in the future.

Even worse when it is still within warranty and you can get it replaced for free *cough* last july is less than 2 years ago *cough*.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Does anyone have experience with modding the Deathadder 2013 LEDs? I want to swap them out with some white ones, but I don't know which size and if it's easy to do.


I haven't taken my Chroma apart yet, and I don't have a 2013, but all previous versions of the DA were really very simple to LED swap. The LEDs have exposed tails, and I believe they are 3mm. I suspect the 2013 is similar, but you could always take it apart to be sure (or find some pics of someone else who has).


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


> seriously don't understand why everyone would rather buy a new mouse constantly than just repair theirs for dirt cheap and learn to maintain it in the future.
> 
> Even worse when it is still within warranty and you can get it replaced for free *cough* last july is less than 2 years ago *cough*.


what gave you the Idea i've been "buying a new mouse constantly" . I've used three deathadders since 2009. the deathadder 2013's left click is already having problems 6 months in, can you tell if that is normal? razer's quality has gotten worse over the years a mouse having issues 6 months in is unacceptable. don't assume everyone are idiots it's annoying


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> what gave you the Idea i've been "buying a new mouse constantly" . I've used three deathadders since 2009. the deathadder 2013's left click is already having problems 6 months in, can you tell if that is normal? razer's quality has gotten worse over the years a mouse having issues 6 months in is unacceptable. don't assume everyone are idiots it's annoying


I own 4 Deathadders, and countless other mice both from razer and from others. I am an extremely heavy computer user, with more hours of active computer use per day than most people accumulate in an entire week.

I have broken exactly 1 mouse in my entire life. One of plastic tabs that hold the side buttons in place snapped off. I fixed it with some super glue. It still works 3 years later.

Every day on this forum alone, I see at least 10 people complaining about how their mouse or keyboard is "broken" because a switch doesn't work absolutely perfectly every once in a while. They then proceed to blame the manufacturer (whoever it may be) and immediately buy a new mouse or keyboard from some other company.

Without fail, every single person who has actually taken my advice (or who I know in person and was thus able to go to their house with a screwdriver and bottle of contact cleaner), has reported 100% success with their keyboard or mouse.

Simple fact is all modern mice are made the same darn way. Omron, or omron-like switches. Plastic bits that bend under pressure to depress said switches. Either an optical or a mechanical wheel encoder, and a wheel. A couple of them have fancy accelerometers, or mechanisms to partially decouple the wheel in order to allow a smoother spin. That's it. They are all the same.

Differences come in terms of shape, weight, sensor, and firmware used, and those aren't the parts that break - ever. It always comes down to the wheel encoder, the plastic buttons, and the switches.

Generally speaking if you break the plastic before the expected lifespan of the mouse, you were physically abusing it. That leaves encoders and switches, which always being the same in all mice, are also susceptible to the same issues in all mice. The issues with microswitches are 1) getting a solvent in them that dissolves the lubricant, or 2) getting debris in them that conflict either mechanically or electronically. Since no mice use 100% sealed shells, nor do their switches, this is just a fact of life with mice (and mechanical keyboards, aside from topre switches). A little contact cleaner works every time.

It isn't just mice and keyboards. This general principle applies to most products you can buy. People simply treat everything as disposable and blame failures on the products. 9/10 times, it is either user error, or lack of basic maintenance. I can't tell you the number of times I've been given "broken" computers, 3D printers, stereos, air filters, heaters, you freaking name it. Almost all of them can be quickly and cheaply "fixed" like some kind of miracle.

It is with this experience that I make this claim: If you have a mouse or keyboard that has failed in a very short period of time, you either directly caused the failure, or you have a defective product, which happens to literally every product line from every company - and is exactly why warranty programs exist in the first place. In all other cases, the product has in reality not failed at all, and you simply haven't yet taken the very basic, very cheap, very easy steps to maintain it.

If you go through the warranty process 3 times in a row, and 3 times in a row you get a mouse from the same product line that fails, all while taking the proper maintenance steps, then perhaps you can make the claim that the product line or it's manufacturer is at fault.

If you're just going to do the "well it isn't working so everything else like it must also be terrible and it can't ever be my fault" thing, you're getting lumped into the same group as everyone else who does that. That's just how it works in my experience. Doesn't matter how annoying you find that.


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jprovido*
> 
> what gave you the Idea i've been "buying a new mouse constantly" . I've used three deathadders since 2009. the deathadder 2013's left click is already having problems 6 months in, can you tell if that is normal? razer's quality has gotten worse over the years a mouse having issues 6 months in is unacceptable. don't assume everyone are idiots it's annoying


While I agree with what Zero says, there is some truth to Razers products generally having a shorter lifespan than other peripheral manufacturers. I've had several Razer mice, and they've never lasted that long, and it hasn't been because of wear but known issues with the mice. I would like to say though that the Deathadder is the only Razer mouse I've had so far that has lasted for almost a year now without showing any signs of wear whatsoever. The Deathadder IS a durable mouse, and this is coming from a previous Razer Vespula, Carcharias, Lachesis and Orochi owner which all failed my within 6-8 months of daily use


----------



## Klompet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> While I agree with what Zero says, there is some truth to Razers products generally having a shorter lifespan than other peripheral manufacturers. I've had several Razer mice, and they've never lasted that long, and it hasn't been because of wear but known issues with the mice. I would like to say though that the Deathadder is the only Razer mouse I've had so far that has lasted for almost a year now without showing any signs of wear whatsoever. The Deathadder IS a durable mouse, and this is coming from a previous Razer Vespula, Carcharias, Lachesis and Orochi owner which all failed my within 6-8 months of daily use


I agree with this because it's the common experience, all of my friends have had horror stories with Razer durability. That said, I bought a razor diamondback in 2009, and used it til 2014. I replaced it with a Deathadder 2013 revision, and have used it until next week when I am chosing to upgrade. It took 5 years for the left click on my diamondback to get faulty. To me their quality has only been good, but I feel like the lucky exception.


----------



## pran

I've been using my Deathadder for four years now without any problems or maintenance at all. Am I just lucky?


----------



## pez

Part of it may be how hard people are on stuff. I had my OG DeathAdder for about 3 or so years before giving it to a friend. And then he preceded to use it nearly twice as heavy (not more usage, just rather harder on the equipment) for another two years before the click started going. Could have fixed it, but the whole mouse at that point was almost glossy, lol.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pran*
> 
> I've been using my Deathadder for four years now without any problems or maintenance at all. Am I just lucky?


Not really. People just like to abuse their stuff and pretend they don't know why it broke.

You will probably be due for a wheel encoder cleaning and lube within the next year or so though.

On another note, I remember someone mentioning the sharp edge the front right edge of his 2013. This was before I got my chroma and I had no idea what he was talking about as my BE, 3.5g, and both 3g Deathadders never had anything sharp there. Now that I have my Chroma (same shell as the 2013 I believe), I can confirm there is indeed a sharpish edge there. If you have really long fingers and hold your mouse funky, that could certainly be a pain.


----------



## Wroxx

Hello,
I want to upgrade from A4Tech Bloody v7 to Deathadder, but I still can't decide which one to get, if 3.5G or 4G 2013. Some people say they prefer 3.5G because of the buttons and surface, some prefer 4G. 3.5G is quite old but the price is also lower.. What do you think guys?

Thanks.


----------



## Zero4549

I rememb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wroxx*
> 
> Hello,
> I want to upgrade from A4Tech Bloody v7 to Deathadder, but I still can't decide which one to get, if 3.5G or 4G 2013. Some people say they prefer 3.5G because of the buttons and surface, some prefer 4G. 3.5G is quite old but the price is also lower.. What do you think guys?
> 
> Thanks.


Both are good.

The 3.5 has a nicer top surface, nicer left/right clicks, and better sensor IF you run strictly at 1800DPI. It also has more stable, less resource hogging legacy drivers, that won't cause as much latency (if you have synapse 2.0 installed for another Razer device however, you will have use that on the 3.5 too or it will conflict with the legacy drivers).

The 4K Deathadders (2013, Classic, and Chroma) have really nice rubber side grips, better side buttons, better scroll wheel, and have much more flexible DPI options. If you leave the drivers installed, you also get the ability to adjust LOD which can be nice, and in the case of the Chroma you get a bunch of color and lighting options (obviously).

They are both quite good though, even in their weak points. The 3G sensor was even better than the 3.5G sensor at 1800 DPI for instance, but I still don't have any issue switching between my 3G and my Chroma. They're pretty close in the grand scheme of things.


----------



## Wroxx

Thanks for reply. I'm using 400 DPI so the 4G sensor is better for me I guess, also LOD adjust is a cool feature but I see a lot of people here complaining about defective 4G after few months, it's a general problem of 4G 2013's or it's just about luck? Which one do you recommend?

Thanks again.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wroxx*
> 
> Thanks for reply. I'm using 400 DPI so the 4G sensor is better for me I guess, also LOD adjust is a cool feature but I see a lot of people here complaining about defective 4G after few months, it's a general problem of 4G 2013's or it's just about luck? Which one do you recommend?
> 
> Thanks again.


I only recently acquired a 4G (chroma), so I can only speculate, but I imagine people are having a typical overblown reaction as with most mice and keyboards.

I have only once in my entire life truly break on me. It was a 3G V2 Deathadder. One of the side buttons broke after I abused the heck out of it playing all the Assassin's Creed games in a row (4 at the time) with it, using said side button as the free run/climb/jump button (you know, the one you hold down the entire time you are playing the game). The mouse was already 3 years old at that point, and had been used every day for those 3 years, at least 6 hours a day. It wasn't even the switch that failed, the plastic tab that holds the external button just snapped off. I took it apart and fixed it with some superglue, and it still works today.

Every other mouse "failure" I've ever had, on any mouse, from any company, including ball mice from the 90s and no name generic junk, has always come down to simply needing to be cleaned. Be it cleaning the sensor, cleaning the mouse ball, the wheels that read the balls, or in most cases for modern mice, cleaning the switches and scroll wheel encoder.

I spend more hours actively using my mice in a day than many people do in a week, and my mice last forever. At the same time I constantly hear people complaining how the exact same mouse is "super fragile", and breaking under "normal use" after "a few days/weeks/months". I call nonsense. These people are either using their mice as frisbees, or they aren't broken at all and the owner just needs to clean out the cheeto dust and stop using his mouse ad a eating utensil.

So to come back to your question, I believe the 4G Deathadders will last a long time, at least as long as any other plastic mouse on the market. I haven't seen any indications of mine being poorly built, it hasn't given me any issues so far, and in general, mice never really do unless you are doing something incredibly stupid with them.


----------



## michiKo

got my da 3.5g and immediately broke it by updating the firmware...

i was installing the firmware and suddenly the lights stopped glowing then windows said something about encore III drivers being installed. after this i have been unable to use the mouse as windows says its a "unknown device"

is there anyway to fix this or is my brand new deathadder dead? :/


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michiKo*
> 
> got my da 3.5g and immediately broke it by updating the firmware...
> 
> i was installing the firmware and suddenly the lights stopped glowing then windows said something about encore III drivers being installed. after this i have been unable to use the mouse as windows says its a "unknown device"
> 
> is there anyway to fix this or is my brand new deathadder dead? :/


plug it to another usb-port and try to reflash it with older/newer firmwares.
this is the only older than 2.45 i got: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p2recnedok560v6/DeathAdder3500_fwupdater_v2.33_Eng.exe?dl=0

maybe try even installing synapse


----------



## michiKo

did not work because the computer does not recognize it as 'Razer Deathadder' so there is nothing to update.
any other possible fixes to this? there must be some way to "force" the drivers to it or something


----------



## navynuke499

So I just broke my 3.5G a week ago and have been using the new chroma. I have been having terrible lift off problems. Does anyone else get this? Im tempted to pull the wheel out of this one and put it in to my old one since thats all that broke.


----------



## NotAgain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> So I just broke my 3.5G a week ago and have been using the new chroma. I have been having terrible lift off problems. Does anyone else get this? Im tempted to pull the wheel out of this one and put it in to my old one since thats all that broke.


Without explaining what your "terrible lift-off problems" are, how is anyone supposed to help?

Is the distance too high? You will need to use the drivers to perform surface calibration and adjust the LoD if that is the case.
If the problem is the opposite, where the LoD is too low, then I'm not sure what your options are other than replacing the mousing surface, as I think the mouse ships at the highest LoD setting.


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotAgain*
> 
> Without explaining what your "terrible lift-off problems" are, how is anyone supposed to help?
> 
> Is the distance too high? You will need to use the drivers to perform surface calibration and adjust the LoD if that is the case.
> If the problem is the opposite, where the LoD is too low, then I'm not sure what your options are other than replacing the mousing surface, as I think the mouse ships at the highest LoD setting.


I have the LoD currently set to 10, it came to me at 1. I have done the calibration as well.

The problem I am having is that I lift the mouse to much when playing quick games such as CS:GO and Battlefield. This was never an issue before with my 3.5G. I dont see any difference in shape or size and I cant tell any real difference in weight, so it leaves me to believe the sensor is what is causing it.


----------



## MechanimaL

a high lod is not normal. have you tried another surface? maybe sth is wrong with your mouse. i guess you already have tried the calibration and have done it like explained in the calibration window? have you tried the mouse without calibration active?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> I have the LoD currently set to 10, it came to me at 1. I have done the calibration as well.
> 
> The problem I am having is that I lift the mouse to much when playing quick games such as CS:GO and Battlefield. This was never an issue before with my 3.5G. I dont see any difference in shape or size and I cant tell any real difference in weight, so it leaves me to believe the sensor is what is causing it.


Stock LOD on the DA 2013 and Chroma are actually lower than the 3.5G. Either something is wrong with your DA, or it could be the pad.


----------



## NotAgain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> I have the LoD currently set to 10, it came to me at 1. I have done the calibration as well.
> The problem I am having is that I lift the mouse to much


Why do you have it set to 10 then?


----------



## LinkPro

For me the liftoff setting in synapse did next to nothing to my DAs' (2013 and Chroma) on my Manticor pad. I wanted to use thick feet cuz the stock ones were too thin but couldn't, with the thick feet on the mouse wouldn't track at all even with liftoff set to 10.


----------



## NotAgain

Are you performing surface calibration before adjusting the LoD setting? It makes an obvious difference here with my DA2013
I also found it best to set the highest height before using surface calibration.


----------



## LinkPro

I did, the Manticor wasn't in the list so I had to do a manual calibration.


----------



## MechanimaL

is manticor a hard pad? the only hardpad i tested my da13 on was the func 1030 (i guess thats the name) and i dont remember any changes in lod. da13 (same sensor) has a very decent lod so if you encounter the high lod on other surfaces as well i guess sth is wrong with your device. how many cds (height) is your lod on the manticore??


----------



## Zero4549

LoD settings work great on my Chroma. No more need for triple stacking feet and using scotch tape to reduce it to a useable level. On some of my surfaces I even have to set it a bit higher as the default will stop tracking on certain colors/textures. Yet to encounter any surface it WONT track on once calibrated - including hard dark pads like the manticore, and with double stacked feet.


----------



## rivage

Hi peeps, I'm a proud owner of the DA 2k13 and in the past few weeks I've noticed that the bottom of my mouse (around the glide part) scratches against the mat (goliathus speed edition), what should I do? buy the Corepad glidez for deathadders?... I don't know what to do, any suggestions is highly recommended, thank's


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> Hi peeps, I'm a proud owner of the DA 2k13 and in the past few weeks I've noticed that the bottom of my mouse (around the glide part) scratches against the mat (goliathus speed edition), what should I do? buy the Corepad glidez for deathadders?... I don't know what to do, any suggestions is highly recommended, thank's


Just stick a second set of feet on top of the originals. They can be corepad, hyperglide, tiger gaming, deathadder official replacement, or any other decent quality normal thickness.

You could try replacing the feet entirely with just thicker feet, but the only ones I know of are PureTrak PerfectGlided HD and those are absolutely awful on cloth pads so avoid that unless you want to destroy your goliathus and also hate your mouse glide.


----------



## rivage

This forum is so awesome that it answers questions that you're about to ask.. Thank you for the recommandations! I'll go with a second pair of feet and I'll put them on top of the old ones cuz yeah replacing them is bad apparently...


----------



## M0rb1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Just stick a second set of feet on top of the originals. They can be corepad, hyperglide, tiger gaming, deathadder official replacement, or any other decent quality normal thickness.
> 
> You could try replacing the feet entirely with just thicker feet, but the only ones I know of are PureTrak PerfectGlided HD and those are absolutely awful on cloth pads so avoid that unless you want to destroy your goliathus and also hate your mouse glide.


I replaced the original mousefeet with hyperglides and the mouse has been gliding like a charm on my QCK Heavy.


----------



## LinkPro

Yeah. The Puretrak feet work pretty well.


----------



## Jiiks

I love this mouse but i just had the middle click break for the 4th time(this lasted a whopping 5 months), guess it's time to get a better build quality mouse or replace the switch with something better









Has anyone replaced the switch? If so can you give me the part#


----------



## trriL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiiks*
> 
> I love this mouse but i just had the middle click break for the 4th time(this lasted a whopping 5 months), guess it's time to get a better build quality mouse or replace the switch with something better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the switch? If so can you give me the part#


Which DA? I'm pretty sure you can buy replacement scroll wheel assembly for the 3G and 3.5G off ebay.


----------



## Jiiks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trriL*
> 
> Which DA? I'm pretty sure you can buy replacement scroll wheel assembly for the 3G and 3.5G off ebay.


Current one is the 2013, i already replaced the microswitch on my previous one but it was way too stiff to be used for long.


----------



## rivage

I finally got my new feet, I bought the corepad ones and put them on top of the old ones just like you told me. Works like a charm, I thought there wouldn't be another pair but I was wrong so that's good. My mouse glide is liquid smooth now, thank's again for the help! @Zero4549


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiiks*
> 
> I love this mouse but i just had the middle click break for the 4th time(this lasted a whopping 5 months), guess it's time to get a better build quality mouse or replace the switch with something better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the switch? If so can you give me the part#


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiiks*
> 
> Current one is the 2013, i already replaced the microswitch on my previous one but it was way too stiff to be used for long.


Were the previous ones also 2013? I've never used a 2013 or "Classic" but I've had every previous version, and have now been using a Chroma for about a month. I've never encountered a broken wheel or microswitch.

Have you ever attempted to fix or diagnose the issue with the microswitch, or have you simply replaced the mouse and moved on? I know you said you replaced the switch itself once but didn't like how so I'm assuming you didn't really go any further with that one.

The truth is 90% of mice on the market today use the same handful of microswitches. In the case of the currently sold Deathadders (left hand edition is an exception, they are still selling old stock of the 3.5G) all switches are omron (widely considered the best switches on the market, and are used by basically every mouse maker for at least the main 2 buttons, with the exception of zowie) and kailh (afaik they are the most well known / biggest maker of omron and cherry mx clone switches. Logitech uses these too).

Basically what im saying is that if your DA microswitches are acting up, you are going to get the same issue with just about any other mouse, so you should probably learn to fix it or prevent it.

The only real difference I can see having any potential effect on switch life between different mice using the same switches would be how many openings are in the shell (and thus how much dust, liquid, and other junk can actually get into the mouse and make your switch dirty. There is no such thing as a sealed mouse, so this would just slow or quicken the problem, not actually solve it).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> I finally got my new feet, I bought the corepad ones and put them on top of the old ones just like you told me. Works like a charm, I thought there wouldn't be another pair but I was wrong so that's good. My mouse glide is liquid smooth now, thank's again for the help! @Zero4549


Works every time. Glad you gave it a shot


----------



## Jiiks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Were the previous ones also 2013? I've never used a 2013 or "Classic" but I've had every previous version, and have now been using a Chroma for about a month. I've never encountered a broken wheel or microswitch.


I had the original, black and the last 2 were 2013s.
I don't the remember how long the first 2 lasted, first 2013 lasted almost a year and this one barely 5 months.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Have you ever attempted to fix or diagnose the issue with the microswitch, or have you simply replaced the mouse and moved on? I know you said you replaced the switch itself once but didn't like how so I'm assuming you didn't really go any further with that one.


Basically the metal plate inside the switch just wears out/loses it's tension.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> The truth is 90% of mice on the market today use the same handful of microswitches. In the case of the currently sold Deathadders (left hand edition is an exception, they are still selling old stock of the 3.5G) all switches are omron (widely considered the best switches on the market, and are used by basically every mouse maker for at least the main 2 buttons, with the exception of zowie) and kailh (afaik they are the most well known / biggest maker of omron and cherry mx clone switches. Logitech uses these too).
> 
> Basically what im saying is that if your DA microswitches are acting up, you are going to get the same issue with just about any other mouse, so you should probably learn to fix it or prevent it.
> 
> The only real difference I can see having any potential effect on switch life between different mice using the same switches would be how many openings are in the shell (and thus how much dust, liquid, and other junk can actually get into the mouse and make your switch dirty. There is no such thing as a sealed mouse, so this would just slow or quicken the problem, not actually solve it).


Well i've never had this issue with any other mouse, other razer mice included.


----------



## pran

After playing around with a few other mice in the last few weeks, I noticed a slight click delay on my Deathadder Black Edition, it almost feels like there's a spring in both mouse buttons and it just doesn't feel as snappy as other mice when clicking anymore. Is this a common problem or is something wrong with my mouse?


----------



## kevinzone

i have the deathadder chroma. is it stable at 1000hz. It's pretty much a da 2013 since it's the same sensor. So im wondering if the deathadder is considered really stable at 1000hz ? or should i go down to 500hz. I play very competitively and am semi pro for cs go so i want the best thing possible. and for me personally, the feeling doesnt matter to me because it's all the same, so i just want whatever is stable and is technically the best. like with the fk i used 500hz and the g400s i used 1000hz
Thanks in advance


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiiks*
> 
> I had the original, black and the last 2 were 2013s.
> I don't the remember how long the first 2 lasted, first 2013 lasted almost a year and this one barely 5 months.
> Basically the metal plate inside the switch just wears out/loses it's tension.
> Well i've never had this issue with any other mouse, other razer mice included.


As far as I recall, the mouse wheel button is the same bog standard omron used in both main buttons in the older DAs. Same exact switch used in 90% of mice main switches on the market. It DOES wear out, but not very quickly (it will take several years to start feeling softer, and at least twice as long to actually break, for most users).

Any other mouse using the same switches will wear out just as quickly. You can open the switch and bend that leaf spring back into shape to extend its life a few more years, but after doing that once or twice the metal will usually be so fatigued that it will be better to replace it if you somehow find yourself using the same mouse 15 years later and considering your 3rd or 4th repair.

As for the 2013/Classic/Chroma, I believe the wheel button now uses one of those tiny convex dome switches. I don't believe there is anything you can really do to fix those ones, although on the up side they are less susceptible to dust issues. I'm not sure how long they last, but I imagine something like 60-70% of the lifespan of an omron leaf spring microswitch. Also not sure who makes the one in the DA2013, so if it is a kalih and not an omron, you could add or subtract about another 20% of the lifespan, depending on which source you trust more (kalih, and companies like Logitech and Razer who use their switches claim they last longer than omron and cherry switches. Users on these forums tend to say otherwise).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pran*
> 
> After playing around with a few other mice in the last few weeks, I noticed a slight click delay on my Deathadder Black Edition, *it almost feels like there's a spring in both mouse buttons and it just doesn't feel as snappy as other mice when clicking anymore*. Is this a common problem or is something wrong with my mouse?


That's because there IS a spring in the switches (specifically a leaf spring), and it does indeed fatigue after a few million clicks. You can bend the leaf back into the original shape, or just replace the whole switch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinzone*
> 
> i have the deathadder chroma. is it stable at 1000hz. It's pretty much a da 2013 since it's the same sensor. So im wondering if the deathadder is considered really stable at 1000hz ? or should i go down to 500hz. I play very competitively and am semi pro for cs go so i want the best thing possible. Thanks in advance


My older DAs all were perfectly stable at 1000. My Chroma has a little variance, but it is still probably better at 1000 than at 500, considering even the fastest monitors only refresh at 144hz and there is no such thing as a 400+ tick game server AFAIK. Of course, that extra polling DOES have a significant CPU hit, so it is your choice between 500 and 1000.


----------



## Jiiks

left/right are omron switches, side buttons are kahil switches, middle click is a standard tac switch with no manufacturer so no way of telling who made it.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiiks*
> 
> left/right are omron switches, side buttons are kahil switches, middle click is a standard tac switch with no manufacturer so no way of telling who made it.


Looks to be a Kalih TA603201SXX for what it's worth. Rated for 100,000 clicks. The same rating Omron and many others give most of their similar style switches. Significantly less than Omron's newest model which boasts 3,000,000 clicks though.

Again, this is only on the 2013/Classic/Chroma. Older models have used various switches. Always Omron for left and right clicks, but various other cheaper alternatives have been used on the middle and side. Middle has previously always been a omron-style leaf spring.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Again, this is only on the 2013/Classic/Chroma. Older models have used various switches. Always Omron for left and right clicks...


not that it matters much anymore, but later 3G rev.2's had these switches instead of omrons:


----------



## thizito

thunda, when you will make my kinzuadder shipping to brazil for 100$? :x


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> not that it matters much anymore, but later 3G rev.2's had these switches instead of omrons:


Huh... that looks nothing at all like any of mine. The only recognisable piece is the LED... even the PCB is a different shape. How very odd. Sure it isn't a knockoff?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Huh... that looks nothing at all like any of mine. The only recognisable piece is the LED... even the PCB is a different shape. How very odd. Sure it isn't a knockoff?


no, it's no knockoff, it's just like the earlier DA 3G's were build from end of 2006 - 2008 or something.
then they made significant changes to the DA 3G overall:


http://imgur.com/olrhX


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> no, it's no knockoff, it's just like the earlier DA 3G's were build from end of 2006 - 2008 or something.
> then they made significant changes to the DA 3G overall:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/olrhX


Huh... neither of my 3Gs look quite like either of those, although one of them looks almost like the one in the first pic (which also looks a lot like my Black Edition).


----------



## MrFerrari

Just got my Deathadder Chroma. Plugged it in, Windows started to install synapse and then the mouse dies. I can't get it back to life, I even tried connecting it to my laptop running linux and it's still dead. Any ideas?


----------



## bond10

Are there any glossy deathadders? I wish they had more coating options.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond10*
> 
> Are there any glossy deathadders? I wish they had more coating options.


All the pre 2013, non black edition DAs had glossy sides. Some of the branded ones (transformer edition for instance) also had glossy tops.


----------



## mrvirtualboy

Is there a specific DPI step the S3988 Deathadders work best on like the S3668 ones? Was thinking of buying the classic during the promotion on Razer's website where you get a free Goliathus.

Also a bit curious about the firmware updates for the new 4G adders. Any specific improvements?


----------



## Maximillion

I remember Skylit saying that all sensors have a "native" CPI step but it's not as relevant with newer, more advanced sensors (3988, 3310, 3366). For some reason on the e-manual for the DA 4G it says it's best to use 1600-1800, not sure why.


----------



## mrvirtualboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> I remember Skylit saying that all sensors have a "native" CPI step but it's not as relevant with newer, more advanced sensors (3988, 3310, 3366). For some reason on the e-manual for the DA 4G it says it's best to use 1600-1800, not sure why.


I just checked it out. Interesting. Probably just a recommended setting for most users. I'd assume the average user runs at sensitivity in that range.

Heard there were some issues with Synapse and the Deathadder 4G as well, but not sure what the specific issues are or if they've been ironed out yet. Didn't it mess with the cursor or something?


----------



## kemotox

Hey guys!
I have a DA 3.5G and i saw that it can remember the last DPI and polling rate settings. I dont want to use profiles, i just want to set up it once, and have the settings forever. How can i do it? I tried the legacy driver and it doesn't work. (Tried on win8.1 and 7 too) Synapse works fine but its a piece of ****, i dont want to login every time. And there is no Linux version. Pls help me. Thanks.


----------



## NotAgain

You have to configure the mouse using the legacy drivers for your settings to "stick".
If you connect it to a system running Synapse 2.0, it will clear the internal memory.

Synapse handles all the profiles in software with legacy devices (all CPI settings in Synapse 2.0 are interpolated in software from the highest native setting) and does not write its settings to their memory.
So if you have a DA3.5G and set it to 900 CPI for example, the mouse is actually running at 3500 CPI which is interpolated down to 900, rather than using the native 900 setting on the mouse.

Non-legacy hardware such as the DA2013/Chroma _does_ get profile changes written to the mouse via Synapse 2.0.

On the one-hand, it allows you to adjust the CPI in steps of 100 on legacy hardware which could previously only do 450/900/1800/3500.
On the other-hand this interpolation makes the mouse lag and no longer saves your settings to the mouse.

It sucks that they treat the legacy hardware this way and expect you to either deal with it or buy a new mouse. It's one of the many reasons I'm done with Razer.


----------



## dlano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrvirtualboy*
> 
> Is there a specific DPI step the S3988 Deathadders work best on like the S3668 ones? Was thinking of buying the classic during the promotion on Razer's website where you get a free Goliathus.
> 
> Also a bit curious about the firmware updates for the new 4G adders. Any specific improvements?


Yeah I saw the promotion coming up too, was gonna buy one since they'd be cheap and see how they stack up nowadays.

Is there any real difference between the Classic and the Chroma? Like is it just a rebranded 2013 or a Chroma with just blue LEDs. Matching colors doesn't bother me as long as there's no other differences, so may as well get the classic.


----------



## reddy89

Exact same as a DA 2013 with blue LEDs.


----------



## beasway

Ive been reading this thread for a while, but i couldnt find a straight answer to my question, which is:

If DA 2013 native dpi is 6400 (or whatever any number it is), what would be the difference between 500 dpi and 400dpi in terms of accuracy and precision? And what about these so called native steps? 6400/400 = 16, 6400/800= 8 and 6400/500= 12.8 , why would all this matter to the integrated chip? Its not like the answer is something like .33 where you cannot divide equally? Not sure if correct at all at this tho.

TLDR; DA 2013 difference in terms of precision and accuracy between interpolated 400 and 500 dpi?


----------



## mrvirtualboy

Great information. My Deathadder 3G is a v3, and in the OP it says that the v3 doesn't feel the same as the v2 due to PCB differences, which kind of disappointed me.

I was thinking about grabbing a Salmosa 3G off eBay, but I'm not going to do it unless it's similar to the Deathadder 3Gv2 in the sense that its PCB/internals make it more similar to the Deathadder 3Gv2 than the 3.5G.

Basically, is the Salmosa 3G closer to the Deathadder 3Gv2 or 3Gv3? I'd try to get my hands on a 3Gv2, but I can't find them anywhere, and even my 3Gv3 was brutally challenging to find.


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beasway*
> 
> TLDR; DA 2013 difference in terms of precision and accuracy between interpolated 400 and 500 dpi?


From what I heard and tried myself, not much, if any difference at all. It uses some more advanced type of smoothing algorithm, which introduces (supposingly) a small delay but evens out CPI steps in terms of tracking fidelity. All steps, even the native one x Windows multiplier felt generally the same to me.


----------



## Aventadoor

For the past 3 months ive been using a Rival cause its a very comfertable shape.
I decided to try my DA2013 again on friday, and my gawd is feels so much more precise...
I can instantly hit better, there must be something funny with Steelseries mice...


----------



## woll3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I decided to try my DA2013 again on friday, and my gawd is feels so much more precise...
> I can instantly hit better, there must be something funny with Steelseries mice...


IMO that is mostly due to the shape, difference in Performance isnt that high, Rival is very high and wide in the back which imo is comfortable in its own way but hinders movement to a certain extent.


----------



## CtrlAltel1te

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> For the past 3 months ive been using a Rival cause its a very comfertable shape.
> I decided to try my DA2013 again on friday, and my gawd is feels so much more precise...
> I can instantly hit better, there must be something funny with Steelseries mice...


probably just the shape that makes it feel more precise.


----------



## Aventadoor

I have a friend who feels exactly the same, he went from Rival to G400s


----------



## AlCZ

I tested both and Rival isn't good for me... It looks and have very similar shape as old Genius mouse, but is too high.... DeathAdder have better ergonomics(and cable.) (I own 2013 version).


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> not that it matters much anymore, but later 3G rev.2's had these switches instead of omrons:


I've seen those switches in the Diamondback 3g's and original Krait's that I have. They are also in the Diamondback plasma,Copperhead and pro solutions mice iirc.


----------



## M0rb1d

Does anyone know if the mousewheel from the 3G fits in the Chroma?


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rb1d*
> 
> Does anyone know if the mousewheel from the 3G fits in the Chroma?


If the Chroma is the same as 4G, then no, it doesn't. Otherwise it's still unlikely that it does.


----------



## TheExaltedOne

Hey, can someone tell me what revision my 3G deathadder is, judging only by the pcb? (label on the underside is scratched off). I would say v2, but I'm not not sure. - It's important because I'm trying to build a Kinzuadder.
Thanks!


----------



## Shwiqo6434

..


----------



## ramen ramon

Seems to me that the other big difference between the DA variants would be the Mousewheel. Where are the differences and which do you prefer, disregarding esthetics?
I broke my Diamondback's 2 times and steered away from Razer a bit, but want to add an older DA to my collection. Thinking BE, cause the older ones usually look quite used/dirty.


----------



## Toxsick

Well, here we go again, second chroma double clicking. first one had it too, so i contacted razor, they said they would do a onetime service which is cut the cord and show it in picture, so i didnt have to send it back. so they send me the second one and it happends again... any chance to fix this on your own?


----------



## freedumb

I've been using my DA2013 at 500 hz so far with without issues. Today I figured why not try 1000.



It is rare but why would my polling rate jump like that?


----------



## AnimalK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freedumb*
> 
> I've been using my DA2013 at 500 hz so far with without issues. Today I figured why not try 1000.
> 
> 
> 
> It is rare but why would my polling rate jump like that?


It is an attempt to keep an average of 1000Hz. So a very high polling is preceded by a very low polling rate.


----------



## freedumb

Is there a problem with my mouse or computer, or should I ignore it?


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## mwl5apv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oubadah*
> 
> I'm seeing the lights of my new DA Chroma staying on after the system is shut down sometimes This is very intermittent. I've mostly had it on a P5Q-Pro, but I also saw it happen on a modern (z97) system a couple of times. Does anyone else have this?


I had that same problem on my DA 3.5 and the Crosshair V. I installed the latest USB drivers and made sure all USB charging option were disabled in the BIOS. Also installed all latest Razer drivers with Synapse. That cured those issues


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oubadah*
> 
> I'm seeing the lights of my new DA Chroma staying on after the system is shut down sometimes This is very intermittent. I've mostly had it on a P5Q-Pro, but I also saw it happen on a modern (z97) system a couple of times. Does anyone else have this?


Do you have the drivers installed? I know you can have the lighting turn off when the display is off.

It's because power is still being sent through your USB.


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## Nafu

is there any way to fix left click missing problem????


----------



## jjpjimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toxsick*
> 
> Well, here we go again, second chroma double clicking. first one had it too, so i contacted razor, they said they would do a onetime service which is cut the cord and show it in picture, so i didnt have to send it back. so they send me the second one and it happends again... *any chance to fix this on your own?*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nafu*
> 
> is there any way to fix left click missing problem????


Yeah, open up the switch and bend it back... I did it with mine and it is clicking like NEW. I had to do this for the mouse5 button as well.

It's very precise work though.




Sorry i didn't take very many pictures, didn't intend to take any but decided against it while doing it.


----------



## michiKo

My Deathadder 3.5g bricked while updating firmware. Is there anything I can do to bring it back alive?


----------



## greasemonky89

i love mine so far but if someone has a good link on mouse set-up for n00b like myself would be nice.


----------



## Crizzl

Does anybody know if the chroma is good in terms of click latency?


----------



## AnimalK

I am having some weird behaviour with my DA 2013.

When I use 500Hz polling I get the following clean plot:


When I use 1000Hz polling I get the following chaotic plot:


What is going on here?


----------



## AnimalK

Sorry double post.


----------



## calci

Same with mine. I have disabled Intel C-STATE in my MB bios and this issue has gone.


----------



## Aventadoor

You can now adjust LOD on DA2013!
(why would u adjust it anyway? huh...







)


----------



## woll3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> You can now adjust LOD on DA2013!
> (why would u adjust it anyway? huh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Icemat?


----------



## SmashTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizzl*
> 
> Does anybody know if the chroma is good in terms of click latency?


There was a bump test somewhere in the click thread between the G502 but the owner of the latency chart doesn't have a new Deathadder as fast as I know.


----------



## mikesn

edit: nevermind, able to return mouse.


----------



## thatgold

Interested in purchasing a Deathadder 2013 edition. But a few things I've seen around have concerned me and would like to know a few things before I make up my mind on this purchase

- This 4g sensor has been reported by some as having a large amount of smoothing, and by others as having none. Does having razer mouse software effect the performance of the mouse negatively or positively, or is there anything I can do to make sure there is no smoothing.

- https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZzbKDmFOqsP_ut2RdctD01OEbZzbXol6HLwqVkSmZcg/edit?pli=1#gid=0 - This list of flawless mice sensors by H1ghlander says that the 4g deathadder has a preferred dpi setting of 1800. Does this sensor work best at that dpi? Also what is the best poling rate for this mouse.

Thanks to anyone who can help me with this


----------



## freedumb

That 1800 dpi is suggested but I don't see any performance differences vs 400 or 800 on mine.. If you look for "pro players" that use the 2013, you'd find they use 400 dpi 99% of the time. I use 800 cpi, have zero smoothing, and have no trouble reaching speeds of almost 5m/s. I did not notice any difference in performance between having synapse installed or not.


----------



## hmmtheos

I picked up a new Deathadder Chroma and the right click has a bit of play, before actually touching the switch, should I be worried?


----------



## overvolted

Just picked up a chroma, and not very pleased. The DA2013 was a solid performing sensor and the Chroma feels nothing like it. Not as responsive, almost seems like there's pixel skipping, and the cursor in general just doesn't go where I want it to. If you have the option to get the 2013, go that route.


----------



## Infinite Jest

I've been keep my DA:BE edition alive for a while now, but in the past 3 months, I've had to open it up and try to fix the scroll-wheel misbehavior four time already by squeezing the metal around the gear. I've been gently squeezing the top of it with pliers, but now I can't seem to get it back to being fully functional again. Is there a particular area of that thing that needs to be squeezed for optimal results? What needs to contact what? I've got another, unopened DA in a box next to my desk (bestbuy deal), but I'm trying to keep this one alive as long as possible. Thanks.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I've been keep my DA:BE edition alive for a while now, but in the past 3 months, I've had to open it up and try to fix the scroll-wheel misbehavior four time already by squeezing the metal around the gear. I've been gently squeezing the top of it with pliers, but now I can't seem to get it back to being fully functional again. Is there a particular area of that thing that needs to be squeezed for optimal results? What needs to contact what? I've got another, unopened BE in a box next to my desk (bestbuy deal), but I'm trying to keep this one alive as long as possible. Thanks.


I'm curious, but what issue are you having? I've noticed that BF4 (it seems only this game) seems to affect the 'sensitivity' of the middle click if I Alt-Tab. I'm paranoid and really can't eliminate it down to that yet, but it's been really strange. Scrolling is fine, and even right now, middle-clicking to open stuff in new tabs is working flawlessly. Not really sure what's going on.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I'm curious, but what issue are you having? I've noticed that BF4 (it seems only this game) seems to affect the 'sensitivity' of the middle click if I Alt-Tab. I'm paranoid and really can't eliminate it down to that yet, but it's been really strange. Scrolling is fine, and even right now, middle-clicking to open stuff in new tabs is working flawlessly. Not really sure what's going on.


Sorry, should have been more concise. When I scroll the wheel, it has a mind of its own. e.g. I may scroll down but it just up


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Sorry, should have been more concise. When I scroll the wheel, it has a mind of its own. e.g. I may scroll down but it just up


Ah, I see. I've just kinda confirmed my mouse is doing the middle click thing now even in my browser. I bit disappointed as the 2013 will be the first one I've had to fail...and even at that, this soon.


----------



## Bucake

how is the deathadder 3.5g..?
because i'm interested in its left handed model









is there any acceleration, jitter, prediction?
(i read there was firmware that fixed a jitter it has, but the razer site apparently doesn't have firmware downloads anymore..)

so, does it have on-board memory?
or would i have to install synapse on anything i want to use the mouse with?

(i presume synapse can update the firmware?)


----------



## mrvirtualboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> how is the deathadder 3.5g..?
> because i'm interested in its left handed model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there any acceleration, jitter, prediction?
> (i read there was firmware that fixed a jitter it has, but the razer site apparently doesn't have firmware downloads anymore..)
> 
> so, does it have on-board memory?
> or would i have to install synapse on anything i want to use the mouse with?
> 
> (i presume synapse can update the firmware?)


I think the left-handed model still supports the old drivers, so you wouldn't need to use Synapse if you didn't want to. Other than that, aside from the shape, it's identical to the right-handed 3.5G.


----------



## Toxsick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmmtheos*
> 
> I picked up a new Deathadder Chroma and the right click has a bit of play, before actually touching the switch, should I be worried?


Well, my second deathadder chroma started to double click alot again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjpjimmy*
> 
> Yeah, open up the switch and bend it back... I did it with mine and it is clicking like NEW. I had to do this for the mouse5 button as well.
> 
> It's very precise work though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry i didn't take very many pictures, didn't intend to take any but decided against it while doing it.


Thanks for this. Rep+

CBA to return them to Razer and get another one which will double click after 1-2 months of usage.


----------



## zen06

I'm planning to get a DA soon but I want a mouse that will last a long time so between DA:2013 and Chroma which is better in terms of build quality and sensor?


----------



## pez

I was ready to praise my 2013 a week ago, but I'm not 100% that I've fixed my middle-click button registering all the time. I cleaned the scroll wheel itself and clicked after each incremental scroll, and that's seemed to have fixed it...for now.


----------



## mtzgr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zen06*
> 
> I'm planning to get a DA soon but I want a mouse that will last a long time so between DA:2013 and Chroma which is better in terms of build quality and sensor?


They're essentially the same, the Chroma is only a slight improvement.


----------



## Bucake

can i trust the 3.05 drivers to not mess up the deathadder 3.5g..?

because i'm close to ordering one,
but i want to be sure that i can safely disable both lights (without messing up the sensitivity/tracking/hz/buttons/etc).

with all the dumb settings and half-broken sensitivity sliders i see in pictures of the driver-software, i just feel a bit paranoid :/


----------



## Zero4549

For the thousandth time, contact cleaner is your friend, use it!


----------



## pez

Is there a special brand that works better? And taking apart the mouse isn't really in my interest if it's unnecessary. Very helpful post for those that don't stick to the thread like glue, though!


----------



## overvolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zen06*
> 
> I'm planning to get a DA soon but I want a mouse that will last a long time so between DA:2013 and Chroma which is better in terms of build quality and sensor?


2013 has better sensor performance. Razer has even admitted to me in support emails the Chroma feels off and likely will be fixed with firmware updates but until then it doesn't match the 2013 on consistency.


----------



## mtzgr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overvolted*
> 
> 2013 has better sensor performance. Razer has even admitted to me in support emails the Chroma feels off and likely will be fixed with firmware updates but until then it doesn't match the 2013 on consistency.


Care to post these emails?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Is there a special brand that works better? And taking apart the mouse isn't really in my interest if it's unnecessary. Very helpful post for those that don't stick to the thread like glue, though!


DeoxIT D5 is wonderful for general purpose use and is easily available, but there are countless alternatives that work better for specific cases.

I personally find D5 can leave a little too much lubricant behind when dealing with tactile switches (Cherry MX Blues in my keyboard and Omron microswitches in my mice lose their "click" feel for a month or two) if I really need to flush out a lot of junk, but in small quantities it works fine. I keep a can on hand at all times as it is useful just about everywhere around the house.

When dealing with tactile switches or system interfaces (PCI-E slots for instance), I like to use a non-lubricating contact cleaner, or sometimes a little of one followed by the other. Non lubricating contact cleaner is incredibly common (most generics are non lubricating) so you can pick up whatever is convenient for that.


----------



## Toxsick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overvolted*
> 
> 2013 has better sensor performance. Razer has even admitted to me in support emails the Chroma feels off and likely will be fixed with firmware updates but until then it doesn't match the 2013 on consistency.


i honestly dont feel the "off" feeling.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> DeoxIT D5 is wonderful for general purpose use and is easily available, but there are countless alternatives that work better for specific cases.
> 
> I personally find D5 can leave a little too much lubricant behind when dealing with tactile switches (Cherry MX Blues in my keyboard and Omron microswitches in my mice lose their "click" feel for a month or two) if I really need to flush out a lot of junk, but in small quantities it works fine. I keep a can on hand at all times as it is useful just about everywhere around the house.
> 
> When dealing with tactile switches or system interfaces (PCI-E slots for instance), I like to use a non-lubricating contact cleaner, or sometimes a little of one followed by the other. Non lubricating contact cleaner is incredibly common (most generics are non lubricating) so you can pick up whatever is convenient for that.


That's good to know. I'm still iffy about taking my mouse apart, just for the fact I'd have to remove the feet, but I never really thought about using MX switch lube for the same task. Makes a lot of sense now







.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That's good to know. I'm still iffy about taking my mouse apart, just for the fact I'd have to remove the feet, but I never really thought about using MX switch lube for the same task. Makes a lot of sense now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Honestly, I feel the Deathadders need a second set of mouse feet stacked on top of the original anyway to get the right glide feel. With just the one set of feet, the belly of the mouse drags on surfaces and adds extra friction. Because I do this anyway, peeling up the feet carefully with a razor doesn't do any harm and I can just stick them back on after.


----------



## pez

Now mouse feet I've seen you recommend, but could you mention them again?


----------



## SmashTV

Hyperglides?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Now mouse feet I've seen you recommend, but could you mention them again?


At the moment I'd suggest the Tiger Gaming mouse feet. IMO they're the best overall value today. I haven't used hotline yet though, and I hear they are roughly equivalent.

I've also used Razer OEM feet, Corepad feet, and Hyperglide feet. Hypers are slightly nicer than Tigers, but they cost so much more that they aren't worth it IMO.


----------



## Contra9

I got Hotline competition feet for my DA2013 and I really like them. I put them overtop the original feet and like Zero said the mouse benefits from the extra height. Sensor didn't feel any different either


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmashTV*
> 
> Hyperglides?


That was the first thing that came to mind







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> At the moment I'd suggest the Tiger Gaming mouse feet. IMO they're the best overall value today. I haven't used hotline yet though, and I hear they are roughly equivalent.
> 
> I've also used Razer OEM feet, Corepad feet, and Hyperglide feet. Hypers are slightly nicer than Tigers, but they cost so much more that they aren't worth it IMO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contra9*
> 
> I got Hotline competition feet for my DA2013 and I really like them. I put them overtop the original feet and like Zero said the mouse benefits from the extra height. Sensor didn't feel any different either


Thanks guys. Probably going to put in an order for one of each on Amazon. Shipping time says 26-43 days lol. But if the mouse decides to work ok until then, it's not a big deal.


----------



## Bucake

i got myself a 3.5g today









should i bother with firmware or legacy drivers?
i'm scared i might break the mouse







i've read some worrying experiences


----------



## dlano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> i got myself a 3.5g today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should i bother with firmware or legacy drivers?
> i'm scared i might break the mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've read some worrying experiences


Legacy drivers are fine, but when I tried to change the firmware from the newest to 2.33 (supposedly had lowest click latency) on my new 3.5G it bricked it.

Barely even plugged it in


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlano*
> 
> Legacy drivers are fine, but when I tried to change the firmware from the newest to 2.33 (supposedly had lowest click latency) on my new 3.5G it bricked it.
> 
> Barely even plugged it in


ouch :/
pretty stupid that an older version actually has better click latency..

thanks for your reply, man.
i kind of want to turn off the 2 lights, and see how (un)stable 1000hz is..
but after i came across *this post*, i've sort of lost my appetite.

oh well.. i can probably get used to the lights








and nevermind taking the risk of bricking my $65 piece of hardware


----------



## falcon26

I just ordered the Chroma. If I installed the software on one PC. Then I set it to turn off the LED on the mouse will those settings stick if I use the mouse in another PC without the software installed on it?


----------



## Contra9

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I just ordered the Chroma. If I installed the software on one PC. Then I set it to turn off the LED on the mouse will those settings stick if I use the mouse in another PC without the software installed on it?


That's how my DA2013 works, so the Chroma should be the same. You just can't store multiple profiles like some mice can. It only remembers the last setting including LED, dpi, polling rate.


----------



## falcon26

OK got it. Thanks..I got the chroma for $50 shipped is that price OK?


----------



## Maximillion

Decent price, haven't seen it much lower than that.


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> Decent price, haven't seen it much lower than that.


It's cheaper in Australia but Australia is Australia ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


----------



## Vikerness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> For Reference:
> 
> Deathadder Sensitivity Scaling (driver interpolation) :
> 
> 1800 CPI:
> 
> 10 = 1800 CPI
> 9.5 = 1710 CPI
> 9 = 1620 CPI
> 8.5 = 1530 CPI
> 8 = 1440 CPI
> 7.5 = 1350 CPI
> 7 = 1260 CPI
> 6.5 = 1170 CPI
> 6 = 1080 CPI
> 5.5 = 990 CPI
> 5 = 900 CPI
> 4.5 = 810 CPI
> 4 = 720 CPI
> 3.5 = 630 CPI
> 3 = 540 CPI
> 2.5 = 450 CPI
> 2 = 360 CPI
> 1.5 = 270 CPI
> 1 = 180 CPI


Hi guys, i own a 3.5G and i just want the answer to a question that hasnt been adressed exactly
So, using the legacy driver, 1800 dpi and 5/10 sensitivity is the same as using 900 dpi and 10/10 sensitivity ? Same method of interpolation, no difference at all, right ?

1800 dpi 10/10 is double the amount im used to and if im using 900 dpi i feel like there's a bit of smoothing and i just want to know the best possible solution


----------



## Bucake

is it possible to make the changes i make to my 3.5g stick, using the legacy drivers?

i used the 3.05 drivers to check what my firmware version was. turns out it already was at 2.45.
but since i had installed/started the software, i figured i might as well turn off the lights while i was there..
so i turn the lights off in the drivers, click apply, and i see both lights go off on my mouse.
i uninstall the drivers; mouse still works, lights are still off.

but after i turned off my pc, and the next day booted it up again, the lights are on again..?
what's the deal?


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

Anyone have any advice on how to make my fingertips stop sweating from the rubber side grips on the Chroma?


----------



## AnimalK

I am also shopping for new skates for my DA 2013. Razer wants 12$ for two sets and wants to charge 50$ to ship to Canada. What a joke.


----------



## Bucake

$50? what the hell. it's just a few grams of material..

personally, i bought hyperglides for my razer. although a bit overpriced, i think they feel fantastic.
i paid €14 for four sets of feet. shipping cost was €1,25

you could also check out Tiger Gaming feet, or Hotline Games feet. i see both brands get recommended frequently.
i vouch for tiger gaming, i use them on my G400 and the glide feels quite sweet.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy*
> 
> Anyone have any advice on how to make my fingertips stop sweating from the rubber side grips on the Chroma?


Clean the grips well with some alcohol. At least for me, my fingers sweat more when the mouse is dirty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> is it possible to make the changes i make to my 3.5g stick, using the legacy drivers?
> 
> i used the 3.05 drivers to check what my firmware version was. turns out it already was at 2.45.
> but since i had installed/started the software, i figured i might as well turn off the lights while i was there..
> so i turn the lights off in the drivers, click apply, and i see both lights go off on my mouse.
> i uninstall the drivers; mouse still works, lights are still off.
> 
> but after i turned off my pc, and the next day booted it up again, the lights are on again..?
> what's the deal?


Do you also have synapse 2.0 installed? I've only seen settings not stick when conflicting software was also installed.

Either way, if it is just the light bothering you, it is very easy to disconnect the LEDs internally.Completely reversible, and non destructive.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnimalK*
> 
> I am also shopping for new skates for my DA 2013. Razer wants 12$ for two sets and wants to charge 50$ to ship to Canada. What a joke.


Tiger Gaming feet are 100% identical to the ones from Razer. I'd go with those unless you can get hypers for very cheap. Corepads are also good, but they are usually more expensive than the Tiger feet without being any better. I hear hotline is also good but I haven't personally tried those.


----------



## Bucake

@Zero4549

thanks alot for your reply.
i don't have synapse installed.
i guess i'll try one more time using the legacy drivers. i'd rather not waste a pare of feet on this.
but if it again fails, i guess i'll go with your suggestion.
will it be obvious to me, what i should disconnect?

thanks again


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> @Zero4549
> 
> thanks alot for your reply.
> i don't have synapse installed.
> i guess i'll try one more time using the legacy drivers. i'd rather not waste a pare of feet on this.
> but if it again fails, i guess i'll go with your suggestion.
> will it be obvious to me, what i should disconnect?
> 
> thanks again


Yeah it should be obvious once you are inside. Just go slow and gentle and make sure you don't break any of the connections or lose any of the small pieces.

The LED on the scroll wheel is soldered in. You can desolder it or even just snap it off if you don't intend on ever putting it back in. If you aren't comfortable with that, just stick some black electrical tape over the LED to block out the light.

The LED under the logo is attached with a white 3 pin connector. Just gently pull to dislodge. It is similar to a 3 pin fan connection, just smaller.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Random thought. Would it be impossible mod a deathadder 3g to fit in a diamondback 3g shell?

Also, anyone have experience doing weight reduction on a deathadder 3g? Was curious as to how low I could get the weight.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Random thought. Would it be impossible mod a deathadder 3g to fit in a diamondback 3g shell?
> 
> Also, anyone have experience doing weight reduction on a deathadder 3g? Was curious as to how low I could get the weight.


No clue on the diamondback bit, but as for weight reduction, there are a few things you can do, but it won't be very dramatic. There are no big useless metal plates in there like logitech likes to do or anything like that.

1) Remove the logo LED and the PCB it is connected to.

2) Remove the profile switch button (the plastic bit over the actual switch. you can still actuate it with a pointed object).

3) File down or otherwise remove some extra plastic protrusions on the inner top shell.

4) Remove both the interior and exterior rear screws.

The mouse will still be fully functional, and as long as you aren't rough with it, it should hold together. Total weight reduction will be small, but perhaps enough for your needs.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Random thought. Would it be impossible mod a deathadder 3g to fit in a diamondback 3g shell?
> 
> Also, anyone have experience doing weight reduction on a deathadder 3g? Was curious as to how low I could get the weight.


i did a weight reduction on my DA 3g, and it was 101g then, still with my modded rubbergrips tho.
that was with a DA 3G rev.2, which weights only about 106g originally, while the rev.3 weights 112g.



http://imgur.com/cMKr7x4




http://imgur.com/K9CACUx


so i basically cut out the housing for the blue LED, and a piece infront of it, under the right button.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Yeah I'd ideally like to get that 106g down to 98g'ish. Buttttttt that will probably mean removing the scroll wheel along with everything else. As long as m1 and m2 work I'll be fine with the result. Time to borrow a dremel too I guess.


----------



## Bucake

has anyone ever replaced the braided cable with a non-braided one?
i want to try it, but don't really know where/how to get a cable, or if they're available at all..


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> has anyone ever replaced the braided cable with a non-braided one?
> i want to try it, but don't really know where/how to get a cable, or if they're available at all..


You can swap in the cable from an older version. I personally did the opposite and upgraded my 3G to the shell and cable of a black edition.

Alternatively, you can cut off the braid.


----------



## aerowalk30

Is this a fake deathadder? Something doesn't seem right but I can't put my finger on it. It has kailh switches all around from what I can see. Its shell is using a black injection rather then a clear plastic from my old DA unless its been spray painted. The box is completely different and looks more like the original 1.8g box but blown up to the size of the 3.5g box. Bought it on amazon.



http://imgur.com/a


It's also giving me this issue ingame. I'm guessing its hitting its max speed and just cutting out but I'm no expert.


----------



## Agareth

I have a DA 2013 and wheel switch(square one) started to miss some clicks. I want to replace it but can't find any info on it. Does anybody know what kind of switch razer used? Like model and manufacturer?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aerowalk30*
> 
> Is this a fake deathadder? Something doesn't seem right but I can't put my finger on it. It has kailh switches all around from what I can see. Its shell is using a black injection rather then a clear plastic from my old DA unless its been spray painted. The box is completely different and looks more like the original 1.8g box but blown up to the size of the 3.5g box. Bought it on amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a
> 
> 
> It's also giving me this issue ingame. I'm guessing its hitting its max speed and just cutting out but I'm no expert.


the "Deathadder" writing, is missing the TM (trademark) on the box, but the performance speaks for itself anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agareth*
> 
> I have a DA 2013 and wheel switch(square one) started to miss some clicks. I want to replace it but can't find any info on it. Does anybody know what kind of switch razer used? Like model and manufacturer?


panasonic square microswitch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Brand-New-Panasonic-Square-MicroSwitch-micro-switch-or-Microsoft-IE4-0-/351007067376


----------



## Agareth

Hm, the cap looks slightly different but i guess it's not a big deal. I'll give it a try, thx.


----------



## Melan

I thought about getting DA as a backup mouse for 303 and noticed that my amazon actually has DA 3.5g along with chroma for sale. So my main question, is croma worth those extra 15-20 euros (40 for 3.5g) over 3.5g or not really? I know what artisan say about bad 3.5g and zero compatibility, so no need to remind me.


----------



## Zero4549

hfhfhfhfhfhf
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> I thought about getting DA as a backup mouse for 303 and noticed that my amazon actually has DA 3.5g along with chroma for sale. So my main question, is croma worth those extra 15-20 euros (40 for 3.5g) over 3.5g or not really? I know what artisan say about bad 3.5g and zero compatibility, so no need to remind me.


I prefer the Chroma to the 3.5G. Original (first revision, not V2) 3G is still my favorite, but good luck getting your hands on one of those.

Chroma is just as good as the V2 3G. Better really, considering the improved shell, wheel, side buttons and lighting.

I'd say its worth it. YMMV of course.


----------



## rivage

is the Chroma actually more worth buying than the 2k13? cuz I might buy it from Amazon


----------



## Aventadoor

Just buy whatever is cheaper


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> is the Chroma actually more worth buying than the 2k13? cuz I might buy it from Amazon


2013 and chroma are almost identical performance wise.

If your choice is between those two, the only factors to really consider are cost and lighting options.


----------



## Brightmist

2 month old Chroma (not mine).


I guess Razer is lowering its plastic quality


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brightmist*
> 
> 2 month old Chroma (not mine).
> 
> 
> I guess Razer is lowering its plastic quality


Meh, stupid people can break anything. Every day I see people posting broken items from any company you can think of and claiming they are poorly built, but 25 years of heavy tech use later I've only ever broken two items, both of which I was able to repair myself.


----------



## AuraDesruu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Meh, stupid people can break anything. Every day I see people posting broken items from any company you can think of and claiming they are poorly built, but 25 years of heavy tech use later I've only ever broken two items, both of which I was able to repair myself.


That's pretty much how I feel about people claiming the build quaility on the Chroma. The chroma feels much more sturdier and well built then the 5 mices I've owned except for the G400s. Rival and the G402 dont feel as solid as my Chroma in my opinion. My friend has had his 2013 DA for 2 years and hasn't had any plastic or listed issues on the internet. He games daily and plays a lot of FPS. Yes, you could argue that he maybe got the "lucky" batch. He treats his tech with care


----------



## Sol9

Love the ergonomics of the deathader but i switched back to using my steelseries sensei raw.


----------



## pez

Outside of my scroll wheel being intermittent, I've never had a DeathAdder fail on me (or either of my two BlackWidow Ultimates). And the scroll wheel sounds like something I just need to pop open to fix. In the meantime, I picked up a M65. It's a totally different scope for me after 8 years + with the DeathAdder series. Going from palm grip and optical sensor to claw and laser is definitely weird, but so far, claw is working really great for me and I've actually been doing consistently better (at CS:GO) since I've gotten used to the mouse/grip.

Also, you guys mentioned good feet to get to replace mine, but do you have a suggestion of where to get them from? I was going to pop open my mouse before I got a new one, but wanted to put new feet on at the same time. However, it had an estimated ship date on Amazon of about 18+ days from every seller. Needless to say I got a new mouse in the meantime, but still plan on fixing this one up...possibly just giving it away again.


----------



## Melan

Get hyperglides directly from their site.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Outside of my scroll wheel being intermittent, I've never had a DeathAdder fail on me (or either of my two BlackWidow Ultimates). And the scroll wheel sounds like something I just need to pop open to fix. In the meantime, I picked up a M65. It's a totally different scope for me after 8 years + with the DeathAdder series. Going from palm grip and optical sensor to claw and laser is definitely weird, but so far, claw is working really great for me and I've actually been doing consistently better (at CS:GO) since I've gotten used to the mouse/grip.
> 
> Also, you guys mentioned good feet to get to replace mine, but do you have a suggestion of where to get them from? I was going to pop open my mouse before I got a new one, but wanted to put new feet on at the same time. However, it had an estimated ship date on Amazon of about 18+ days from every seller. Needless to say I got a new mouse in the meantime, but still plan on fixing this one up...possibly just giving it away again.


TigerGaming/Hotlines From Ebay (Takasta).


----------



## illitirit

I just bought some hyperglides from their home website. Hopefully shipping doesnt take the full 3 weeks they quoted but I am not hopeful as I buy tons of stuff from china which uses singapore post.

I think I had a package take 3 months to come in once from singapore post, another time was 12 days... so they are wildly inconsistent.

All said and done, I am excited for the hyperglides.


----------



## Melan

Well, they say 3 weeks and they mean it. My hyperglides never took longer than that for sure. Fastest were 11 days.
But trust me, It's worth the weight wait.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> Get hyperglides directly from their site.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> TigerGaming/Hotlines From Ebay (Takasta).


Thanks guys, I guess I'll have to suck it up and just be patient







.


----------



## Sol9

Are hyperglides worth it? I don't really play that many First Person Shooters but i do play a lot of rpg's.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sol9*
> 
> Are hyperglides worth it? I don't really play that many First Person Shooters but i do play a lot of rpg's.


Not really. Tigers are by far the better value per dollar. Hypers are only really the right choice if you are about to go to a competition and your mouse feet happen to be completely worn out at the same time, or just otherwise can't stand the ~1-2 week break in period for the tigers on cloth, or ~1-2 days on hard surfaces.


----------



## rivage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Not really. Tigers are by far the better value per dollar. Hypers are only really the right choice if you are about to go to a competition and your mouse feet happen to be completely worn out at the same time, or just otherwise can't stand the ~1-2 week break in period for the tigers on cloth, or ~102 days on hard surfaces.


I just ordered hyperglides, I'm so sad right now.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> I just ordered hyperglides, I'm so sad right now.


Don't be too sad, there is nothing wrong with hypers other than the cost. They _are_ technically the best feet, they just aren't worth the 400% price markup for the 1% of added quality over tigers or hotlines.


----------



## acroback

Is it just me or my Deathadder 2013 has smoothing at 800 DPI?

I play CS:GO and I almost always overshoot the target or corner by a fair margin.

And yes, I do know how to play CS:GO just fine.

So, I changed to my trusty G400S and lo behold I am overshooting corners anymore much less now.









Is it placebo? Or something is wrong with my sensor?

I use a large cloth XXL mat if it matters. I play at low sensitivity and do very fast flicks to snap on to corners. 1.1 at 800 dpi or 2 at 400 dpi.

Someone faced this?

Thanks,


----------



## illitirit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acroback*
> 
> Is it just me or my Deathadder 2013 has smoothing at 800 DPI?
> 
> I play CS:GO and I almost always overshoot the target or corner by a fair margin.
> 
> And yes, I do know how to play CS:GO just fine.
> 
> So, I changed to my trusty G400S and lo behold I am overshooting corners anymore much less now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it placebo? Or something is wrong with my sensor?
> 
> I use a large cloth XXL mat if it matters. I play at low sensitivity and do very fast flicks to snap on to corners. 1.1 at 800 dpi or 2 at 400 dpi.
> 
> Someone faced this?
> 
> Thanks,


Define what smoothing is? I dont know what this means.

I play CS:GO all the time and find that the deathadder accuracy is spot on to me. I use DPI : X=800 Y=1000 , In game sensitivity is about 3.4 or so. I also use an XXL desk mat

I have improved my playing since switching from my old mouse (mionix naos 7000).


----------



## RDno1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illitirit*
> 
> accuracy is spot on to me. I use DPI : X=800 Y=1000 , In game sensitivity is about 3.4 or so.


Sorry, but I don't think you could tell with a sensitivity that high.


----------



## acroback

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illitirit*
> 
> Define what smoothing is? I dont know what this means.
> 
> I play CS:GO all the time and find that the deathadder accuracy is spot on to me. I use DPI : X=800 Y=1000 , In game sensitivity is about 3.4 or so. I also use an XXL desk mat
> 
> I have improved my playing since switching from my old mouse (mionix naos 7000).


You can search Google to find definition for Mouse Smoothing.

That said, I play with rather low sensitivity. So I swipe really fast to lock on to corners and targets. And quite often, I do not land on intended place at all. And it happens a lot with DA







.

If this is not smoothing, then what is it?

I love the mouse shape just that I overshoots or refuses to stop where I intend it to.

OTOH, like i said G400S seems like working just fine.


----------



## bond10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acroback*
> 
> You can search Google to find definition for Mouse Smoothing.
> 
> That said, I play with rather low sensitivity. So I swipe really fast to lock on to corners and targets. And quite often, I do not land on intended place at all. And it happens a lot with DA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If this is not smoothing, then what is it?
> 
> I love the mouse shape just that I overshoots or refuses to stop where I intend it to.
> 
> OTOH, like i said G400S seems like working just fine.


Sounds more like mouse acceleration.

With smoothing, I feel like flick shots aren't crisp. It's almost like your cursor is lagging a millisecond or two behind behind your actual mouse movement.


----------



## thedogman

If I uninstall the razer synapse software will my dpi setting be saved?


----------



## Melan

Afaik it saves CPI settings. Not the macros though.


----------



## Contra9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedogman*
> 
> If I uninstall the razer synapse software will my dpi setting be saved?


Yes, the dpi and the polling rate will be saved. I don't have Synapse installed anymore and the mouse is running at 800dpi with 1000hz rate, the last setting I had in the software.


----------



## Z Overlord

What is the difference between the Deathadder 2013 and the Deathadder Chroma? Do either have native DPI of 800? What are the native DPI steppings? What are the out of the box polling rates? I play CSGO.


----------



## Bartouille

My deathadder 2013 mouse wheel died in less than 6 months of use... It was working perfectly fine and then all of a sudden the mouse wheel lost all its resistance and stopped working. I knew Razer was simply cheap crap and gimmick leds right from the beginning but it was 50 bucks free ship... should have stayed away.


----------



## cryptos9099

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> What is the difference between the Deathadder 2013 and the Deathadder Chroma? Do either have native DPI of 800? What are the native DPI steppings? What are the out of the box polling rates? I play CSGO.


The only difference between the two is the Chroma has RGB lighting and DPI settings above 6400, otherwise they are the same.


----------



## rivage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Don't be too sad, there is nothing wrong with hypers other than the cost. They _are_ technically the best feet, they just aren't worth the 400% price markup for the 1% of added quality over tigers or hotlines.


just got my hyperglide in the mail this morning, 6th of may > 15th of may was shorter than expected... anyway gonna use them today! thank's again for reassuring me : D


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> just got my hyperglide in the mail this morning, 6th of may > 15th of may was shorter than expected... anyway gonna use them today! thank's again for reassuring me : D


Awesome, I bet you'll enjoy them. Are you stacking them on top of your old feet, or removing the old ones first? Also, what kind of mouse pad are you using?

If you haven't actually decided yet, I would suggest double stacking if you are using a cloth pad


----------



## rivage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Awesome, I bet you'll enjoy them. Are you stacking them on top of your old feet, or removing the old ones first? Also, what kind of mouse pad are you using?
> 
> If you haven't actually decided yet, I would suggest double stacking if you are using a cloth pad


I'm using a deathadder 2013, I still haven't placed them, I wanted to replace them instead of double stacking cuz I have Corepad skates but they worn out (I only have them, I didn't stack them with the razer feet) so what should I do?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> I'm using a deathadder 2013, I still haven't placed them, I wanted to replace them instead of double stacking cuz I have Corepad skates but they worn out (I only have them, I didn't stack them with the razer feet) so what should I do?


I suggest stacking on top of your corepad skates. Especially if you are using a cloth pad. The design of the deathadder has extremely low clearance and on cloth pads often causes the plastic belly to drag. The extra clearance from the stacked skates will ensure that contact is only with the PTFE feet, and not the plastic belly of the mouse.

If you are using a hard pad, double stacked skates _might_ not track well, depending on the color and texture of the surface. On the other hand, the extra height will give the feet a longer lifespan, which can save you a few bucks. You will have to test it out yourself, or just use your best judgement.


----------



## rivage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I suggest stacking on top of your corepad skates. Especially if you are using a cloth pad. The design of the deathadder has extremely low clearance and on cloth pads often causes the plastic belly to drag. The extra clearance from the stacked skates will ensure that contact is only with the PTFE feet, and not the plastic belly of the mouse.
> 
> If you are using a hard pad, double stacked skates _might_ not track well, depending on the color and texture of the surface. On the other hand, the extra height will give the feet a longer lifespan, which can save you a few bucks. You will have to test it out yourself, or just use your best judgement.


I'm using the goliathus speed edition. I'll give it a try then.


----------



## rivage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> I'm using the goliathus speed edition. I'll give it a try then.


So I just double stacked them on top of my corepad. Holy hell, it's like i'm using a WHOLE different mouse... the glide is just so different and so much better. The wait was more than worth it.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> So I just double stacked them on top of my corepad. Holy hell, it's like i'm using a WHOLE different mouse... the glide is just so different and so much better. The wait was more than worth it.


----------



## illitirit

I just got mine in too. Stacked them on top of my original feet.

I had a bit of a goof though however.

When I put the hyperglides on, my mouse wasnt registering movement anymore.

I thought it was because of the lift off distance in razer synapse, went to go change it and the entire mouse stopped functioning (is this why everyone says razer software sucks?).

Turns out all I had to do was recalibrate again using the surface calibration tool.

After I did it, all is well.

10/10 product and im glad that it came with another set.

I use a cloth mouse pad so I doubt the hyperglide will ever wear out on me.


----------



## obikenobi27

This should be transformed into a Deathadder owners club. Just a thought.

EDIT: I also reviewed the Chroma if anybody wants to see my thoughts.


----------



## mtzgr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> This should be transformed into a Deathadder owners club. Just a thought.


I'd rather this subforum be about in-depth reviews, informed opinions, and good information--and not have it turn into a circlejerk (at least anymore than it already is).


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtzgr*
> 
> I'd rather this subforum be about in-depth reviews, informed opinions, and good information--and not have it turn into a circlejerk (at least anymore than it already is).


I respect that opinion. Just thought it would be useful for non-deathadder owners to know the person they are asking owns a Deathadder and what particular Deathadder (not that anybody is actually lying about owning a mouse







)


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illitirit*
> 
> I just got mine in too. Stacked them on top of my original feet.
> 
> I had a bit of a goof though however.
> 
> When I put the hyperglides on, my mouse wasnt registering movement anymore.
> 
> I thought it was because of the lift off distance in razer synapse, went to go change it and the entire mouse stopped functioning (is this why everyone says razer software sucks?).
> 
> Turns out all I had to do was recalibrate again using the surface calibration tool.
> 
> After I did it, all is well.
> 
> 10/10 product and im glad that it came with another set.
> 
> I use a cloth mouse pad so I doubt the hyperglide will ever wear out on me.


I generally find that on cloth pads I replace my feet approximately once a year. I could probably make them last two years but they're cheap enough that I don't worry about the slight wastefulness, and I enjoy the extra DPI consistency that I preserve by not allowing the distance between the mouse and the surface to change significantly.

From what I've seen on this forum and know of my personal friends, people who are in the market for replacement feet are likely to also replace their mice for one reason or another at least once every two years, so a single pack of feet is usually going to last you the entire lifespan of the mouse.

I've also noticed that hyperglides, due to being "broken in" more before use than other companies, tend to last slightly shorter than other PTFE feet such as Corepads or Tiger Gaming. They also are pure PTFE while some other companies mix other (more durable, but higher friction) materials such into their feet, so this also contributes to a lower lifespan compared to low quality feet, but I would never suggest using low quality feet to begin with. Regardless, hypers still last a good long while on cloth and shouldn't really bother anyone who was in the market for them in the first place.

As for the popular opinion that Razer sucks, I can't agree at all. I've found them in my personal experience to be no different than any of their competitors. There are a lot of people who claim that their products break easily, yet I've owned far more computer peripherals than most users, and use those products longer and harder than most users, and the only one I've truly broken was a cheap no name chinese webcam that fell off my desk and shattered its lense.

Razer _software_ certainly has its issues (the latest Synapse 2.0 in particular is known to cause conflicts with other software including gaming software like origin, and even java, as well as causing instability with older Razer products made before the introduction of Synapse 2.0) and I prefer to run either entirely without it, or with stripped down version of it, but the same is true for logitech software, steelseries software, madcatz/saitek software, etc.

I believe it is just popular to hate on Razer because they were the first real enthusiast gaming peripheral company and are still one of the largest. Logitech of course is bigger, but most of their products are aimed at the mainstream.


----------



## illitirit

Hey! Cool write up,

I share your sentiments about people bashing razer.

I too have owned countless peripherals over the years and I dont think one thing has ever died on me.

My mom is still using my i believe 8 year old razer diamondback. It still works perfectly fine. The only issues are after so many years of dirty hands touching the mouse, there is so much gunk buildup between the gaps of the mouse that the buttons kind of stick. But after tearing it apart and cleaning it, it is like its brand new again.

All over amazon reviews on razer products is the same type of reviews :

"breaks in 2 weeks, gg"
"Dont buy, it will fail on you in a month"
"Chinese made crap"

It makes me wonder how these people are using their items. *** are they doing? smashing it against the wall when they get owned in CSGO? Seems like a bunch of people just dont treat their electronics like electronics.

I think in the 20+ years I have been purchasing electronics products I have never had anything fail on me.

My 9 year old Logitech G15 is still working perfectly. I only recently stopped using it because I became addicted to mechanical keyboards.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illitirit*
> 
> Hey! Cool write up,
> 
> I share your sentiments about people bashing razer.
> 
> I too have owned countless peripherals over the years and I dont think one thing has ever died on me.
> 
> My mom is still using my i believe 8 year old razer diamondback. It still works perfectly fine. The only issues are after so many years of dirty hands touching the mouse, there is so much gunk buildup between the gaps of the mouse that the buttons kind of stick. But after tearing it apart and cleaning it, it is like its brand new again.
> 
> All over amazon reviews on razer products is the same type of reviews :
> 
> "breaks in 2 weeks, gg"
> "Dont buy, it will fail on you in a month"
> "Chinese made crap"
> 
> It makes me wonder how these people are using their items. *** are they doing? smashing it against the wall when they get owned in CSGO? Seems like a bunch of people just dont treat their electronics like electronics.
> 
> I think in the 20+ years I have been purchasing electronics products I have never had anything fail on me.
> 
> My 9 year old Logitech G15 is still working perfectly. I only recently stopped using it because I became addicted to mechanical keyboards.


I've had a few of the internal components of my system fail. Overclocked GPUs that were folding 24/7 in the summer would sometimes fall victim to high heat and pollen buildup for instance... But like you, and as I mentioned earlier, never have I had a peripheral actually break without me doing something incredibly stupid to it. I've had to open a few mice to clean out dirty wheel encoders, I've had to replace worn out feet, and I've had to clean and lube some dirty MX Blue switches, but that is just maintenance - nothing broken.

In fact, I had been using the same Deathadder 3G for something like 7 years straight, 8+ hours a day, before my GF bought me a Chroma earlier this year, and it was still working just fine.

I agree, people must be violently abusing their peripherals if they manage to break them so frequently, and if so, no brand is safe.


----------



## Melan

There is a certain fault rate for everything. Imperfections exist everywhere and no QC will ever fix this. My 11 year old MX500 still works like new and it still has original parts, yet I purchased DA chroma which only lived for about 12 hours before failing on me.
That's why warranty and return period exist.
As for OCed parts, they were not designed to go past their default specifications, neither they are supposed to violently combust if you OC them but their life span will be shorter.


----------



## Bucake

synapse has always been my personal gripe with razer. i disagree with alot of their products, and especially marketing, but they are actually barerly/no different from other companies'.
after all, they're just companies ;p

unfortunately, most companies now force you to install software if you want to configure your mouse. i just can't be bothered with that stuff.
so i guess i'm doomed to stick with zowie from now on. i really hope they'll never change their no-software vision









i still own and use a left-handed razer deathadder (3.5g), but if it needed synapse to work then i would've given it away ;p
same goes for my logitech g400; if it needed software to be used, i wouldn't even have it.

as for razer their build quality, i'm not really under the impression that it's any worse than other companies'.


----------



## Vorsplummi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> unfortunately, most companies now force you to install software if you want to configure your mouse. i just can't be bothered with that stuff.
> so i guess i'm doomed to stick with zowie from now on. i really hope they'll never change their no-software vision


I don't know about Razer but most Logitech and SS mice have internal storage nowdays. You can configure your mouse once and then uninstall drivers or just not make them start at boot like I do.

I prefer to have software instead of clumsy LCD display like Sensei has or incomplete settings like Zowie has.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Go figure. Turns out my Deathadder 3g is the later bizarro revision with sweeta dm1 switches instead of omrons. Got it down to 95g removing a bunch of stuff.

Didn't use a dremel so I might still somehow cut it down to 90g when I eventually work on it again.


----------



## obikenobi27

I just got myself a Razer Goliathus Extended (Control) to use with my Deathadder Chroma. It feels completely different and so much smoother. CS:GO recoil is so much easier to control when your mousepad is made with alot more quality.


----------



## theo87

Razer Goliathus is excellent mousepad that doesn't get much credit. High quality tracking, great build quality and quite durable I would say. Sadly many people will buy QCK that will be worn out after 6 months of use.


----------



## bond10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inox*
> 
> Razer Goliathus is excellent mousepad that doesn't get much credit. High quality tracking, great build quality and quite durable I would say. Sadly many people will buy QCK that will be worn out after 6 months of use.


I had two goliathus speed pads (both of them are the new versions with green all over). They were fine at first but wore down fast and turned into crap, the pad has patterns of my mouse movement so my mouse drifts towards this pattern. The QCK wasn't as amazing at first but it wore down nicely with more friction but at least it's consistent all around unlike that razer pad.


----------



## pez

My QCK did wear down fairly quickly. I bought a Goliathus extended and really love it. I'm only not using it now because it's too large for my desk. Those stitched edges are what makes it worth even more IMO. My QCK edges frayed/peeled, and even my Corsair MM200 is trying to do it. I'm honestly probably going to get a smaller Goliathus. Used it for months with absolutely no issue or sign of wear.


----------



## axipher

I'm still rocking my old DeathAdder on some scotch tape feet that I change once a month on just some fake wood desk.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm still rocking my old DeathAdder on some scotch tape feet that I change once a month on just some fake wood desk.


That poor mouse. At least spend 5 bucks and slap some tiger gaming feet on there instead of the tape. Heck, you can even see where the table has rubbed a hole in the sticker due to the feet being so worn out that they no longer provide clearance.


----------



## pez

Just ordered the Tiger Gaming 2015 feet off of the eBay store for my DA 2013, my brother's DA BE, and also a couple sets for my Kinzu V2 Pro's. Even though I'm moving on from the Deathadder, I'm still going to give them a shot with the new feet and use this opportunity to finally open up my DA and clean that middle click switch.


----------



## Serandur

I love the shape of the Deathadder, but wow are they poorly built. It hasn't even been a year and Deathadder 2013's mouse buttons wore down so much and feel so creaky/shifty rather than solid. I got a Chroma as a replacement and after a week, its buttons are exhibiting the same problem. Got yet another Chroma and it's the same thing after a mere week. What's going on?


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serandur*
> 
> I love the shape of the Deathadder, but wow are they poorly built. It hasn't even been a year and Deathadder 2013's mouse buttons wore down so much and feel so creaky/shifty rather than solid. I got a Chroma as a replacement and after a week, its buttons are exhibiting the same problem. Got yet another Chroma and it's the same thing after a mere week. What's going on?


Had a Deathadder 2013, never had any of those issues. Have a Chroma now, and only got it because I had a BestBuy giftcard and again still no issue. I've had the 2013 since release and the Chroma since release.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serandur*
> 
> I love the shape of the Deathadder, but wow are they poorly built. It hasn't even been a year and Deathadder 2013's mouse buttons wore down so much and feel so creaky/shifty rather than solid. I got a Chroma as a replacement and after a week, its buttons are exhibiting the same problem. Got yet another Chroma and it's the same thing after a mere week. What's going on?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> Had a Deathadder 2013, never had any of those issues. Have a Chroma now, and only got it because I had a BestBuy giftcard and again still no issue. I've had the 2013 since release and the Chroma since release.


Gotta agree with dmasteR here.

My Chroma has given me no issues other than the software it comes with (which gave me about the same amount of issues as logitech's software, saitek's software, etc until I forcibly started removing certain offending components of it).

Never had a 2013, but neither of my two BEs ever gave me any issues.

My original 3G never gave me any issues other than a slight defect in the moulding of the right button cover that caused it to rub against the scroll wheel when depressed (I opted into some light sanding to fix it rather than RMA and risk getting a V2 back. still works fine to this day).

My 3G V2's only issue was the scroll wheel encoder becoming a bit loose after 7 solid years of continuous hardcore use (and which I could have and would have fixed myself had my GF not suprised me with a Chroma).


----------



## pez

I guess I can agree that the buttons are a bit 'shifty', but such is so with the nature of the design. I.e. the gap it has between Mouse1 and Mouse2. However, my one consistent issue with Mouse1 and Mouse2 that I've even noticed with the Steelseries Rival is that the buttons feel a little disconnected. Almost as if there's a little too much material between your finger and the switch. Think of the actuation feeling in a MX Blue switch and the actuation in a Kalih Blue switch. Both the same switch, but the Kalihs are known to actuate higher and in turn feel a little more crisp and precise. It's a nitpick really, and it seems different depending on how you position your fingers on the buttons (i.e. higher up/closer to being right on top of the switch).


----------



## uNfEiL

Was considering buying this mouse (chroma) but it seems like this mouse gets defective very often and very fast so not sure about it now. Or where's the truth? Is it really that low durability mouse?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uNfEiL*
> 
> Was considering buying this mouse (chroma) but it seems like this mouse gets defective very often and very fast so not sure about it now. Or where's the truth? Is it really that low durability mouse?


I generally believe people just abuse their stuff and like to blame it on the manufacturer rather than accept personal responsibility. This goes for every company, not just Razer.

Razer also is more popular to hate on due to its size, marketing, and market dominance. Similar to how everyone here likes to hate on Intel, even though they know AMD is even worse.

At any rate, if you actually look at the guys complaining about how "every Razer product" is "fragile" or "defective", you will notice that most of them either never owned any, or only owned one or two Razer products. They make sweeping generalizations about the entire product line, based on a single product (often their more popular, poorer quality products like their keyboards), and if you track them back far enough you will see them posting complaints about every other company they've tried as well (conveniently avoiding whatever is enjoying cult status at any given time. WMO for instance).

My point being, look into actual products, not companies. Go read some actual reviews instead of people just throwing their epeens and brand loyalties around on a message board. In the case of the Deathadder line in specific, it is one of the longest running, best performing lines currently out there, and people who actually use them don't seem to have any real issues.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uNfEiL*
> 
> Was considering buying this mouse (chroma) but it seems like this mouse gets defective very often and very fast so not sure about it now. Or where's the truth? Is it really that low durability mouse?


As a user of the Deathadder Chroma for around a year now, my Deathadder has suffered no damage other than the cord fraying and eventually separating the two sections of the cord sleeving. This is probably due to my desk which has sharper edges than most. It does not affect the mouse performance whatsoever, and I have experienced no other issues. The mouse is plenty solid and the Chroma lighting is very even across the logo. Definitely recommend. Negative reviews usually seem to be from overly frustrated nerds who have common cases of ¨nerd rage,¨ a disease in which too much time is spent listening to screaming ten year olds playing CoD, in which they should return to consoles and come to the PC for a real game (*ahem Counter Strike *ahem).

In summary, my experience with the mouse has been great with no issues other than the cord fraying (which is probably my fault), and I am more than satisfied with the quality. This could just be me, but I do think that the Razer Goliathus mousemat (Control) gives the best feel for this particular mouse. It is really nice compared to other products I have used. I do have a review here if you are still curious about other aspects of the mouse.

P.S. Some people complain about the buttons and mouse wheel being a bit rickety, but my Deathadder has the most solid mouse wheel I have felt and the buttons only feel slightly rickety if you click on the far outer corners (which I have no idea why anybody would do that).


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm still rocking my old DeathAdder on some scotch tape feet that I change once a month on just some fake wood desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That poor mouse. At least spend 5 bucks and slap some tiger gaming feet on there instead of the tape. Heck, you can even see where the table has rubbed a hole in the sticker due to the feet being so worn out that they no longer provide clearance.
Click to expand...

Might look in to some, I forget how long I've even had this mouse, been years and it's treating me great as my work mouse for AutoCAD 3D work.


----------



## uNfEiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I generally believe people just abuse their stuff and like to blame it on the manufacturer rather than accept personal responsibility. This goes for every company, not just Razer....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Razer also is more popular to hate on due to its size, marketing, and market dominance. Similar to how everyone here likes to hate on Intel, even though they know AMD is even worse.
> 
> At any rate, if you actually look at the guys complaining about how "every Razer product" is "fragile" or "defective", you will notice that most of them either never owned any, or only owned one or two Razer products. They make sweeping generalizations about the entire product line, based on a single product (often their more popular, poorer quality products like their keyboards), and if you track them back far enough you will see them posting complaints about every other company they've tried as well (conveniently avoiding whatever is enjoying cult status at any given time. WMO for instance).
> 
> My point being, look into actual products, not companies. Go read some actual reviews instead of people just throwing their epeens and brand loyalties around on a message board. In the case of the Deathadder line in specific, it is one of the longest running, best performing lines currently out there, and people who actually use them don't seem to have any real issues.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> As a user of the Deathadder Chroma for around a year now, my Deathadder has suffered no damage other than the cord fraying and eventually separating the two sections of the cord sleeving...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is probably due to my desk which has sharper edges than most. It does not affect the mouse performance whatsoever, and I have experienced no other issues. The mouse is plenty solid and the Chroma lighting is very even across the logo. Definitely recommend. Negative reviews usually seem to be from overly frustrated nerds who have common cases of ¨nerd rage,¨ a disease in which too much time is spent listening to screaming ten year olds playing CoD, in which they should return to consoles and come to the PC for a real game (*ahem Counter Strike *ahem).
> 
> In summary, my experience with the mouse has been great with no issues other than the cord fraying (which is probably my fault), and I am more than satisfied with the quality. This could just be me, but I do think that the Razer Goliathus mousemat (Control) gives the best feel for this particular mouse. It is really nice compared to other products I have used. I do have a review here if you are still curious about other aspects of the mouse.
> 
> P.S. Some people complain about the buttons and mouse wheel being a bit rickety, but my Deathadder has the most solid mouse wheel I have felt and the buttons only feel slightly rickety if you click on the far outer corners (which I have no idea why anybody would do that).


What I'm also afraid of is the software. The most people complain about sensor being unrensponsive (etc) with synapse running and without it you can't even change DPI.


----------



## axipher

Picked a set of Tiger Gaming Razer Deathadder Mouse Feet 0.65mm, smallest was a pack of two so I'll have an extra set, either buy another DA for them, or just leave them in my drawer at work as back-ups.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Picked a set of Tiger Gaming Razer Deathadder Mouse Feet 0.65mm, smallest was a pack of two so I'll have an extra set, either buy another DA for them, or just leave them in my drawer at work as back-ups.


Good man! I suggest you slap them right on top of your current worn out feet instead of removing the old ones. The extra clearance is really nice on Deathadders. Not sure why Razer hasn't figured that out yet all these years later... still shipping them with the too-thin feet from the original all those years ago!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uNfEiL*
> 
> What I'm also afraid of is the software. The most people complain about sensor being unrensponsive (etc) with synapse running and without it you can't even change DPI.


The core of Synapse 2.0 isn't too bad (at least on devices that were designed for it. It does really weird stuff with older hardware that was made before Synapse 2.0 was released, like screwing with the tracking on the older 3g/3.5g deathadders). What IS bad is all the garbage bundled in with Synapse 2.0, like Razer Stats Tracker, Cloud Profiles, etc.

I personally stripped all these out and just left the core of Synapse 2.0 running on my system with the Chroma. Works great.

I use the old legacy drivers for systems with older pre-synapse 2.0 hardware to avoid any weird issues. Can't mix old with new because of that, but that is fine with me.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Picked a set of Tiger Gaming Razer Deathadder Mouse Feet 0.65mm, smallest was a pack of two so I'll have an extra set, either buy another DA for them, or just leave them in my drawer at work as back-ups.
> 
> 
> 
> Good man! I suggest you slap them right on top of your current worn out feet instead of removing the old ones. The extra clearance is really nice on Deathadders. Not sure why Razer hasn't figured that out yet all these years later... still shipping them with the too-thin feet from the original all those years ago!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *uNfEiL*
> 
> What I'm also afraid of is the software. The most people complain about sensor being unrensponsive (etc) with synapse running and without it you can't even change DPI.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The core of Synapse 2.0 isn't too bad (at least on devices that were designed for it. It does really weird stuff with older hardware that was made before Synapse 2.0 was released, like screwing with the tracking on the older 3g/3.5g deathadders). What IS bad is all the garbage bundled in with Synapse 2.0, like Razer Stats Tracker, Cloud Profiles, etc.
> 
> I personally stripped all these out and just left the core of Synapse 2.0 running on my system with the Chroma. Works great.
> 
> I use the old legacy drivers for systems with older pre-synapse 2.0 hardware to avoid any weird issues. Can't mix old with new because of that, but that is fine with me.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I'll try them over top of the existing feet first when they come in, probably a couple weeks though knowing eBay shipping to Canada.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Picked a set of Tiger Gaming Razer Deathadder Mouse Feet 0.65mm, smallest was a pack of two so I'll have an extra set, either buy another DA for them, or just leave them in my drawer at work as back-ups.
> 
> 
> 
> Good man! I suggest you slap them right on top of your current worn out feet instead of removing the old ones. The extra clearance is really nice on Deathadders. Not sure why Razer hasn't figured that out yet all these years later... still shipping them with the too-thin feet from the original all those years ago!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *uNfEiL*
> 
> What I'm also afraid of is the software. The most people complain about sensor being unrensponsive (etc) with synapse running and without it you can't even change DPI.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The core of Synapse 2.0 isn't too bad (at least on devices that were designed for it. It does really weird stuff with older hardware that was made before Synapse 2.0 was released, like screwing with the tracking on the older 3g/3.5g deathadders). What IS bad is all the garbage bundled in with Synapse 2.0, like Razer Stats Tracker, Cloud Profiles, etc.
> 
> I personally stripped all these out and just left the core of Synapse 2.0 running on my system with the Chroma. Works great.
> 
> I use the old legacy drivers for systems with older pre-synapse 2.0 hardware to avoid any weird issues. Can't mix old with new because of that, but that is fine with me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the tip, I'll try them over top of the existing feet first when they come in, probably a couple weeks though knowing eBay shipping to Canada.
Click to expand...

Yep, just remove that scotch tape you have over them and give them a quick scrub with the provided alcohol swab. They should stick well and give you a really lovely glide.


----------



## Bucake

yooo!
I can't believe how nice and smooth my deathadder feels right now.. 

went by someone's advice (probably Zero's) to install a set of feet on top of the original ones, mainly to remove the belly drag.
so i got myself some hyperglides, alcohol-cleaned the original feet and placed the new feet on top of them.
well.. it was absolutely worth the money for me.

i have the praised tiger gaming feet on my G400, but the difference between the brands is actually quite big.
i think the only reason for me to ever get anything other than hyperglides now, would be unavailability.

but aside from the sexy new glide, the removal of the belly drag is by far the bigger bonus in this case.
i've owned plenty of mice that had significant flaws, some of them quite nasty, but i'm gonna go ahead and say that the belly drag of the deathadder is the worst flaw i've ever seen.

of course i can imagine someone actually preferring other feet over hyperglides, or just think they're not worth the money, but i'm just gonna go ahead and say that hyperglides are simply the best.
as for the Deathadder: i don't know if all models have the same belly drag as my 3.5g has, but if it does: *STACK FEET*!!!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Picked a set of Tiger Gaming Razer Deathadder Mouse Feet 0.65mm, smallest was a pack of two so I'll have an extra set, either buy another DA for them, or just leave them in my drawer at work as back-ups.
> 
> 
> 
> Good man! I suggest you slap them right on top of your current worn out feet instead of removing the old ones. The extra clearance is really nice on Deathadders. Not sure why Razer hasn't figured that out yet all these years later... still shipping them with the too-thin feet from the original all those years ago!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *uNfEiL*
> 
> What I'm also afraid of is the software. The most people complain about sensor being unrensponsive (etc) with synapse running and without it you can't even change DPI.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The core of Synapse 2.0 isn't too bad (at least on devices that were designed for it. It does really weird stuff with older hardware that was made before Synapse 2.0 was released, like screwing with the tracking on the older 3g/3.5g deathadders). What IS bad is all the garbage bundled in with Synapse 2.0, like Razer Stats Tracker, Cloud Profiles, etc.
> 
> I personally stripped all these out and just left the core of Synapse 2.0 running on my system with the Chroma. Works great.
> 
> I use the old legacy drivers for systems with older pre-synapse 2.0 hardware to avoid any weird issues. Can't mix old with new because of that, but that is fine with me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the tip, I'll try them over top of the existing feet first when they come in, probably a couple weeks though knowing eBay shipping to Canada.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep, just remove that scotch tape you have over them and give them a quick scrub with the provided alcohol swab. They should stick well and give you a really lovely glide.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the tips









Now I've got to figure something out for my tT eSports Saphira.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> yooo!
> I can't believe how nice and smooth my deathadder feels right now..
> 
> went by someone's advice (probably Zero's) to install a set of feet on top of the original ones, mainly to remove the belly drag.
> so i got myself some hyperglides, alcohol-cleaned the original feet and placed the new feet on top of them.
> well.. it was absolutely worth the money for me.
> 
> i have the praised tiger gaming feet on my G400, but the difference between the brands is actually quite big.
> i think the only reason for me to ever get anything other than hyperglides now, would be unavailability.
> 
> but aside from the sexy new glide, the removal of the belly drag is by far the bigger bonus in this case.
> i've owned plenty of mice that had significant flaws, some of them quite nasty, but i'm gonna go ahead and say that the belly drag of the deathadder is the worst flaw i've ever seen.
> 
> of course i can imagine someone actually preferring other feet over hyperglides, or just think they're not worth the money, but i'm just gonna go ahead and say that hyperglides are simply the best.
> as for the Deathadder: i don't know if all models have the same belly drag as my 3.5g has, but if it does: *STACK FEET*!!!


The belly drag is universal among all models of the Deathadder, unfortunately. Double stacked feet all the way


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> When I get my feet, will I have to up the liftoff distance in synapse 2.0? I currently have it set at 1.


It's possible, depending on your mouse pad and how much "extra" LOD you currently have.

Either way it shouldn't be an issue.

Oh, as for where to get the Tiger Gaming feet, the links in the last few posts are correct. You can also get them on Amazon if you are willing to buy larger quantities I believe. I did this once, but generally wouldn't recommend it unless you have an actual use for like 12 sets of feet (Ssh, I have a lot of Deathadders, don't judge me!)


----------



## Bucake

sad to see my coating is starting to go after a few months (3.5g) :-(

the spots where i click M1 and M2 are starting to lose the coating. you feel it, and a bit of shine shows.
it's just stupid that it has to be the coating that's gonna make me change mice.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> sad to see my coating is starting to go after a few months (3.5g) :-(
> 
> the spots where i click M1 and M2 are starting to lose the coating. you feel it, and a bit of shine shows.
> it's just stupid that it has to be the coating that's gonna make me change mice.


That is one of the issues I have seen with the deathadder 3Gs. I didn't think it happened so soon. I've used my chroma for over a year and the finish is still flawless.


----------



## orcus286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Oh, as for where to get the Tiger Gaming feet, the links in the last few posts are correct. You can also get them on Amazon if you are willing to buy larger quantities I believe. I did this once, but generally wouldn't recommend it unless you have an actual use for like 12 sets of feet (Ssh, I have a lot of Deathadders, don't judge me!)


Looks like they now sell them in lesser quantities on amazon ... 2 pack is $5.99

http://www.amazon.com/Gaming-Razer-Deathadder-Skates-Teflon/dp/B00QE5K2CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433715721&sr=8-1&keywords=tiger+gaming+feet+deathadder


----------



## orcus286

Best buy has deathadder chromas on sale right now for $54.99 if anyone is looking to pick one up.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/razer-deathadder-chroma-optical-gaming-mouse-black/8501032.p?id=1219340874786&skuId=8501032


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orcus286*
> 
> Looks like they now sell them in lesser quantities on amazon ... 2 pack is $5.99
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Gaming-Razer-Deathadder-Skates-Teflon/dp/B00QE5K2CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1433715721&sr=8-1&keywords=tiger+gaming+feet+deathadder


Nice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orcus286*
> 
> Best buy has deathadder chromas on sale right now for $54.99 if anyone is looking to pick one up.
> 
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/razer-deathadder-chroma-optical-gaming-mouse-black/8501032.p?id=1219340874786&skuId=8501032


Sale appears to be over


----------



## dwnfall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Nice.
> Sale appears to be over


On sale at Amazon, $52.99 + Free Shipping for Chroma

http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Chroma-Multi-Color-Ergonomic/dp/B00MYTSDU4


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Anyone got an idea of how to fix a skippy mouse wheel?
Mine sometimes jumps in the other direction, for example I scroll down suddenly it scrolls a step up but than again scrolls down.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Anyone got an idea of how to fix a skippy mouse wheel?
> Mine sometimes jumps in the other direction, for example I scroll down suddenly it scrolls a step up but than again scrolls down.


Sounds like a dirty encoder. If the mouse is still under warranty, just go through the RMA process. If not, open it up and use some contact cleaner and lube on the wheel encoder.


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Thanks but it was bad idea to open that crap mouse, all wires of the big gray cable that connects both PCB simply separated I guess because of some bending, why didn't they used a damned connector like they do for the USB cable, I guess that is the failsafe for anyone who tries to fix a deathadder that got struck by the various problems that hunt this series.
And really great is that I can't even replacement my Black Edition because that thing isn't sold anymore, god am I pissed, never in the past I had such quality problems with a mouse not even with those much cheaper that this expensive china junk.

Ok is there anything that can replace the DA Black Edition properly? Preferably one that doesn't need to be fixed by the owner sooner or later?


----------



## jjpjimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Thanks but it was bad idea to open that crap mouse, all wires of the big gray cable that connects both PCB simply separated I guess because of some bending, why didn't they used a damned connector like they do for the USB cable, I guess that is the failsafe for anyone who tries to fix a deathadder that got struck by the various problems that hunt this series.
> And really great is that I can't even replacement my Black Edition because that thing isn't sold anymore, god am I pissed, never in the past I had such quality problems with a mouse not even with those much cheaper that this expensive china junk.
> 
> Ok is there anything that can replace the DA Black Edition properly? Preferably one that doesn't need to be fixed by the owner sooner or later?


Just desolder the old joints, trim cables, and solder it back on. I broke mine too when I opened it for the 20th time.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Thanks but it was bad idea to open that crap mouse, all wires of the big gray cable that connects both PCB simply separated I guess because of some bending, why didn't they used a damned connector like they do for the USB cable, I guess that is the failsafe for anyone who tries to fix a deathadder that got struck by the various problems that hunt this series.
> And really great is that I can't even replacement my Black Edition because that thing isn't sold anymore, god am I pissed, never in the past I had such quality problems with a mouse not even with those much cheaper that this expensive china junk.
> 
> Ok is there anything that can replace the DA Black Edition properly? Preferably one that doesn't need to be fixed by the owner sooner or later?


Opened like 5 different Deathadders, like 10 times each. Never broke the ribbon cable. You can just resolder it though.

Anyway, the 2013/Classic version and the Chroma are both quite nice.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChromeBeauty*
> 
> Thanks but it was bad idea to open that crap mouse, all wires of the big gray cable that connects both PCB simply separated I guess because of some bending, why didn't they used a damned connector like they do for the USB cable, I guess that is the failsafe for anyone who tries to fix a deathadder that got struck by the various problems that hunt this series.


they used a connector on the DA 3G rev.2










http://imgur.com/QMnUxCc


----------



## ChromeBeauty

Yea thanks for rubbing salt in my wound...

Anyhow another DA isn't an option, I bought the DA BE only because it was a lot cheaper and at that time I didn't have the time to properly search for a replacement for my old DA that fell victim to the double click problem.
Don't know why I should throw out 60 bucks for a series that already let my down twice.
Fool me once shame on you, fool my twice shame on me.


----------



## jjpjimmy

Found some of the images of my own repair..

Trimming Cable


Desoldering existing connections


Desoldered


Fitting wires through


LOL SOLDER


Trimmed


----------



## Bucake

anyone know if *this 2013 scroll wheel* would fit in a 3.5g (lefthanded) model?
i ask because i figured that they may have changed the size/shape..
as for left vs right, i presume that does not matter?


----------



## obikenobi27

So my Tiger Gaming Feet just arrived in the mail, and, by recommendation, I just stuck the feet on top of my current ones. Now my Deathadder Chroma has difficulty tracking on the Razer Goliathus Control even though I maxed out my liftoff distance. Is there something I am missing here? Should I just stick with single feet and not stack?


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> So my Tiger Gaming Feet just arrived in the mail, and, by recommendation, I just stuck the feet on top of my current ones. Now my Deathadder Chroma has difficulty tracking on the Razer Goliathus Control even though I maxed out my liftoff distance. Is there something I am missing here? Should I just stick with single feet and not stack?


Never mind. I found a fix to the problem. If you have a Razer mouse pad selected, you need to use a custom calibration for the mouse to track properly. All of this is under the "Calibration" tab.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> anyone know if *this 2013 scroll wheel* would fit in a 3.5g (lefthanded) model?
> i ask because i figured that they may have changed the size/shape..
> as for left vs right, i presume that does not matter?


The Deathadder wouldn't seem to have changed enough around the center for that to be a problem. I do know that the 2013 doesn't have a rocking scrollwheel and only has a middle click. If the 3.5G has that functionality, it might not work.


----------



## twiz0r0r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> The Deathadder wouldn't seem to have changed enough around the center for that to be a problem. I do know that the 2013 doesn't have a rocking scrollwheel and only has a middle click. If the 3.5G has that functionality, it might not work.


First, no need to triple post my friend. You can discuss more than one topic in your post AND there is an edit button.

On topic: I picked up a Chroma yesterday and I love it. I have very small hands and the shape and side button placement is perfect. I can see how people with very large hands could say that the side buttons are too far back for them. I love the side grips. The only thing I think I would change is to have the scroll wheel protrude a little higher. But I bet in a week I won't be able to notice this.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twiz0r0r*
> 
> First, no need to triple post my friend. You can discuss more than one topic in your post AND there is an edit button.
> 
> On topic: I picked up a Chroma yesterday and I love it. I have very small hands and the shape and side button placement is perfect. I can see how people with very large hands could say that the side buttons are too far back for them. I love the side grips. The only thing I think I would change is to have the scroll wheel protrude a little higher. But I bet in a week I won't be able to notice this.


Sorry, can't edit posts in Tapatalk.


----------



## Zero4549

AFAIK, the 2013/Classic and Chroma wheels are compatible with each other, but will not fit previous versions.

The 3G v1 wheel will also not fit any other version.

3G V2, 3.5G, 3.5G Left Hand Edition, Black Edition, and branded versions (guild wars, transformers, etc) will all fit each other.

As for the tracking issues after stacking feet, you will need to recalibrate using Razer Synapse 2.0. Depending on the surface, you may need to select custom instead of the actual Razer pad (assuming it is a Razer pad to begin with).


----------



## granitov

To all owners of DA 3G V2 and 3.5G: does the mouse auto scroll when plugged in, on each second wheel step? Try plugging the mouse in when in a middle of a folder with a lot of files or a scrollable web page. If it doesnt, make one step with a scroll in any direction and plug it in again.

I've recently ordered 3 deathadders from online sellers, all have genuine internals, and they all do this. The most important is that the mouse wheel skips randomly (about 2% chance on fast scrolls and about 5% on slow scrolls), like if something is wrong with signal debouncing. Can't define if it's MCU or circuit fault.

Also, anyone who knows how to select correct R and C values for debouncing curcuit are welcome, since I would like to try fixing it manually.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> AFAIK, the 2013/Classic and Chroma wheels are compatible with each other, but will not fit previous versions.
> 
> The 3G v1 wheel will also not fit any other version.
> 
> 3G V2, 3.5G, 3.5G Left Hand Edition, Black Edition, and branded versions (guild wars, transformers, etc) will all fit each other.


thanks 
too bad, though; i'd have rather had that 2013 wheel in my 3.5g


----------



## pez

My TIger gaming feet were damaged/lost/stolen in the mail and I received an empty envelope from USPS. So now I wait another 2-3 weeks for the replacements. Seller seems cool, though. Not his fault, just bummed







.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> thanks
> too bad, though; i'd have rather had that 2013 wheel in my 3.5g


For what its worth, the 2013 wheel itself, while nicer looking, isn't quite as nice feeling.

Now, the way they have it installed in the 2013 is much better than previous versions, but that wouldn't carry over to the older models even if you did manage to get the newer wheel into them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> My TIger gaming feet were damaged/lost/stolen in the mail and I received an empty envelope from USPS. So now I wait another 2-3 weeks for the replacements. Seller seems cool, though. Not his fault, just bummed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yikes. Sorry to hear that.


----------



## Bucake

Zero the deathadder-encyclopedia








thank for the info

@pez
you always hope that you're not gonna be that guy for whom something goes wrong. you got unlucky :-(


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> Zero the deathadder-encyclopedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank for the info


XD Just try to help where I can.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> For what its worth, the 2013 wheel itself, while nicer looking, isn't quite as nice feeling.
> 
> Now, the way they have it installed in the 2013 is much better than previous versions, but that wouldn't carry over to the older models even if you did manage to get the newer wheel into them.
> Yikes. Sorry to hear that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> Zero the deathadder-encyclopedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank for the info
> 
> @pez
> you always hope that you're not gonna be that guy for whom something goes wrong. you got unlucky :-(


Yeah. I'm glad it wasn't something like a GPU or CPU. I'll take the hit on the extra wait time, though. He responded in less than a day, and in summation said it was probably lost/stolen/damaged in customs and they would ship out a replacement. Great to get a response that wasn't in half-broken English, too. Good CS, IMO.

Sadly, I probably won't use the DeathAdder again, but I may try it out with the new skates. Since I've moved to the Rival, I can't even comfortably grip the Deathadder as the sides have just become a bit too slippery for me to really get a good, consistent grip on. Any ideas on a way to dry it out (2013 w/ rubber sides)? I've just been using a microfiber cloth/towel to wipe them down. I may try some warm water, and as a last resort some alcohol to really dry it out. It's lighter than the Rival, though a bit shorter.

On a side note, I should have ordered some for my Rival.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> For what its worth, the 2013 wheel itself, while nicer looking, isn't quite as nice feeling.
> 
> Now, the way they have it installed in the 2013 is much better than previous versions, but that wouldn't carry over to the older models even if you did manage to get the newer wheel into them.
> 
> Yikes. Sorry to hear that.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> Zero the deathadder-encyclopedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank for the info
> 
> @pez
> 
> you always hope that you're not gonna be that guy for whom something goes wrong. you got unlucky :-(
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah. I'm glad it wasn't something like a GPU or CPU. I'll take the hit on the extra wait time, though. He responded in less than a day, and in summation said it was probably lost/stolen/damaged in customs and they would ship out a replacement. Great to get a response that wasn't in half-broken English, too. Good CS, IMO.
> 
> Sadly, I probably won't use the DeathAdder again, but I may try it out with the new skates. Since I've moved to the Rival, I can't even comfortably grip the Deathadder as the sides have just become a bit too slippery for me to really get a good, consistent grip on. Any ideas on a way to dry it out (2013 w/ rubber sides)? I've just been using a microfiber cloth/towel to wipe them down. I may try some warm water, and as a last resort some alcohol to really dry it out. It's lighter than the Rival, though a bit shorter.
> 
> On a side note, I should have ordered some for my Rival.
Click to expand...

Could try taking the mouse apart and Plasti-dip the slippery sides with matte black or some other color.


----------



## pez

It's the 2013, so the issue is actually with the rubber getting a bit slippery. Now that I've gone back and used it, I almost prefer the plain glossy, or matte sides of the BE and previous gens.

EDIT:

I'm gonna look up a dis-assembly of the side grips and see if I can't just possibly remove them and I'll just have an indention there. That actually might work really well for me.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah. I'm glad it wasn't something like a GPU or CPU. I'll take the hit on the extra wait time, though. He responded in less than a day, and in summation said it was probably lost/stolen/damaged in customs and they would ship out a replacement. Great to get a response that wasn't in half-broken English, too. Good CS, IMO.
> 
> Sadly, I probably won't use the DeathAdder again, but I may try it out with the new skates. Since I've moved to the Rival, I can't even comfortably grip the Deathadder as the sides have just become a bit too slippery for me to really get a good, consistent grip on. Any ideas on a way to dry it out (2013 w/ rubber sides)? I've just been using a microfiber cloth/towel to wipe them down. I may try some warm water, and as a last resort some alcohol to really dry it out. It's lighter than the Rival, though a bit shorter.
> 
> On a side note, I should have ordered some for my Rival.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> For what its worth, the 2013 wheel itself, while nicer looking, isn't quite as nice feeling.
> 
> Now, the way they have it installed in the 2013 is much better than previous versions, but that wouldn't carry over to the older models even if you did manage to get the newer wheel into them.
> 
> Yikes. Sorry to hear that.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> Zero the deathadder-encyclopedia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank for the info
> 
> @pez
> 
> you always hope that you're not gonna be that guy for whom something goes wrong. you got unlucky :-(
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah. I'm glad it wasn't something like a GPU or CPU. I'll take the hit on the extra wait time, though. He responded in less than a day, and in summation said it was probably lost/stolen/damaged in customs and they would ship out a replacement. Great to get a response that wasn't in half-broken English, too. Good CS, IMO.
> 
> Sadly, I probably won't use the DeathAdder again, but I may try it out with the new skates. Since I've moved to the Rival, I can't even comfortably grip the Deathadder as the sides have just become a bit too slippery for me to really get a good, consistent grip on. Any ideas on a way to dry it out (2013 w/ rubber sides)? I've just been using a microfiber cloth/towel to wipe them down. I may try some warm water, and as a last resort some alcohol to really dry it out. It's lighter than the Rival, though a bit shorter.
> 
> On a side note, I should have ordered some for my Rival.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Could try taking the mouse apart and Plasti-dip the slippery sides with matte black or some other color.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> It's the 2013, so the issue is actually with the rubber getting a bit slippery. Now that I've gone back and used it, I almost prefer the plain glossy, or matte sides of the BE and previous gens.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I'm gonna look up a dis-assembly of the side grips and see if I can't just possibly remove them and I'll just have an indention there. That actually might work really well for me.


The plastidip idea sounds like it is worth a try if you are unhappy with the current texture. I've actually thought about doing so myself to a couple my my mice but never got around to it.

That said, I've always regularly cleaned all my mice, including my Chroma, with isopropyl alcohol. I've never had any become slippery or build up much grime. I'd suggest giving that a try first.


----------



## mint567

I have the same problem with the side grips getting too slippery after some time of use. If you take alcohol and wipe/clean the side grips they aren't slippery but it is only a temporary fix. The oil from my hands make the deathadder hard to grip. I don't have the problem with the rival grips getting slick. I've never tried to take the deatadder grips off and plastidip them. If you do decide to do this let me know how it turns out.


----------



## Bucake

within just a few hours (or just an hour of intense gaming) i already get a build-up of gunk on the glossy side-grips of my 3.5g
quite annoying, but luckily some warm water + microfiber cleans it just fine.

i have this problem with every mouse, though. i guess my (oily) skin just sheds easily, or something









i stopped using alcohol because you never really know if the plastic/coating of your peripheral is immune to it


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> within just a few hours (or just an hour of intense gaming) i already get a build-up of gunk on the glossy side-grips of my 3.5g
> quite annoying, but luckily some warm water + microfiber cleans it just fine.
> 
> i have this problem with every mouse, though. i guess my (oily) skin just sheds easily, or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i stopped using alcohol because you never really know if the plastic/coating of your peripheral is immune to it


Your 3.5G's glossy sides are made of ABS. Completely immune. Not sure what they used for the rubber coating on top, but isopropyl has never degraded mine for what that is worth.

I find the glossy side DA's build up a lot more gunk than the BE's rubberized sides, or the 2013 and newer's actual rubber and textured ABS top. Never has any real issue with the rubberized part of the 3G or 3.5G though.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Your 3.5G's glossy sides are made of ABS. Completely immune. Not sure what they used for the rubber coating on top, but isopropyl has never degraded mine for what that is worth.
> 
> I find the glossy side DA's build up a lot more gunk than the BE's rubberized sides, or the 2013 and newer's actual rubber and textured ABS top. Never has any real issue with the rubberized part of the 3G or 3.5G though.


thanks for the info 

i figured it's a good habit for me to stick with water. maybe the DA can handle alcohol fine, but some other mouse might not.
besides, as long as water does the job, i don't really feel the need to go back to using alcohol


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> thanks for the info
> 
> i figured it's a good habit for me to stick with water. maybe the DA can handle alcohol fine, but some other mouse might not.
> besides, as long as water does the job, i don't really feel the need to go back to using alcohol


Yeah, whatever works is good enough. I prefer isopropyl as it removes oils better, and I know my equipment is safe, but if I was using something with paint or unknown plastics I would probably be pretty hesitant to use any sort of cleaner.


----------



## Sol9

My DA croma is starting to feel a little slippery where the rubber side grips are also but still a very good mouse


----------



## pez

Thought I had replied previously, but I see the message was still sitting in the box.

I did try the alcohol and it seemed to help a lot, though my hands tend to sweat a bit while playing, so it was back pretty quickly. Still not on the level it was, though. After many tries, though, after using the Rival, I just cannot get used to the DeathAdder again. So a tribute goes to this great mouse as I'm going to find it a good home once I get the replacement feet, and get it cleaned up. It's about time for one of my friends to upgrade, anyways







.


----------



## mint567

For those wondering, I did try to plastidip the side grips. I did not take them off but I covered and taped the mouse around the rubber side grips. I used 3-4 coats of plastidip and it looked wonderful. The problem is the plastidip will not stick to the rubber material. I cleaned it thoroughly and it was dry. I read about plastidip not playing well with rubber pieces. I'm not willing to sand the rubber pieces in order to see if it will adhere any better.


----------



## Michalko

Hello, I have DeathAdder Chroma and Goliathus Speed. When I turn surface calibration to on, I have mouse skipping issues. Is this normal?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalko*
> 
> Hello, I have DeathAdder Chroma and Goliathus Speed. When I turn surface calibration to on, I have mouse skipping issues. Is this normal?


Are you selecting it from the Razer mat list? I know there's a 'Razer mats' option and an 'Other mats' option (maybe not those exact words).


----------



## Michalko

Yes, I selected it from the list.. I have also tried manual calibration - causing much less mouse skipping but still.. Not as good as without surface calibration..


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalko*
> 
> Hello, I have DeathAdder Chroma and Goliathus Speed. When I turn surface calibration to on, I have mouse skipping issues. Is this normal?


Calibration software is know to change (usually lower) LOD for mice that employ it. That's probably what's causing the skipping you experience w/ calibration enabled. Generally speaking, it's better to just use the mouse at the default factory setting.


----------



## Poopsticker

Does the Deathadder Chroma have any smoothing?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poopsticker*
> 
> Does the Deathadder Chroma have any smoothing?


All modern mice have smoothing. The question to ask is _how much_ smoothing does it have. The answer is not enough for it to bother me, despite using an original DA 3G for 8 years straight.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalko*
> 
> Yes, I selected it from the list.. I have also tried manual calibration - causing much less mouse skipping but still.. Not as good as without surface calibration..


All calibration does is adjust LOD. If you aren't getting consistent tracking on a Goliathus pad, you probably have a dirty sensor/lense or a knockoff Goliathus. I'd suggest checking the sensor/lense first, and if that isn't the issue, try using custom calibration along with manual manipulation of the LOD slider.

If custom calibration + manual adjustment of the LOD slider can get you proper tracking, then you aren't missing out on anything by not using the "goliathus" preset and shouldn't worry about it.

If you still have issues, you might want to consider a different mousing surface. If you still have issues on other surfaces or you are 100% certain your goliathus isn't a counterfeit, then I would RMA the mouse as it is likely defective (or itself a counterfeit, but in that case it would be unlikely to work with Synapse, so I'd assume that is not the case).


----------



## Bucake

there are knockoff mouse mats..? pfffff


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> there are knockoff mouse mats..? pfffff


Yep. The Goliathus is actually the most commonly counterfeited mouse pad. If you see a Goliathus being sold with non-typical features, it is almost certainly a counterfeit (black and white instead of green is fairly common, although the fakes can look just like the real ones as well).

Incidentally, the Deathadder shares the title of most counterfeited mouse, along side the ever popular WMO/Intellimouse. There have been incidents where knockoff Deathadders have even shown up in mainstream stores like Newegg and Best Buy in the past, sold as the genuine article.


----------



## kevinzone

whats the perfect control speed like on the 2013/ chroma?


----------



## granitov

What is the best firmware for DA 3G (V2, with MCU on the bottom side of the PCB)?

What driver version should be used for a safe FW update?


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

fw 1.35ndc was one of the better ones iirc. I cannot recall the driver I used with it though.


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> fw 1.35ndc was one of the better ones iirc. I cannot recall the driver I used with it though.


If anyone guides me to a link for that 1.35 version that'd be awesome, I seem to come across almost every version except that one.

EDIT: thanks French warez site


----------



## dwnfall

DA or FinalMouse?


----------



## wareya

I vastly prefer the FM to the DA but I got a FM with a defective sensor so I had to return it. DA on the other hand, I've never even heard of one with a defective sensor.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwnfall*
> 
> DA or FinalMouse?


I would base your decision off of your hand shape. If you have longer fingers and a slim hand, the FinalMouse is probably the better option. However, if your hand is wider, the Deathadder would be a better option. There isn't a huge difference between the mouse sizes, but if it is that tough of a decision, you can easily decide based on hand shape and size.

The dimensions of each mouse are:
Deathadder (Chroma): 5" (Length) x 2.8" (Width) x 1.7" (Height); 3.7 oz
Final Mouse (2015): 5.4" (Length) x 2.2" (Width) x 2.1" (Height) ; 4.3 oz

Another deciding factor (if it matters to you) is the lighting. The Deathadder Chroma has 100% even lighting around the logo and mouse wheel and can change color to match your setup (again, if that matters). The FinalMouse only has a white light around the logo. This doesn't really matter to most of the people buying the FinalMouse because they are most often looking for a mouse that just works well.


----------



## wareya

if you have a fingertip grip then the FM is definitely superior to the DA for any hand size. The DA's height and angles are just trashy.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wareya*
> 
> if you have a fingertip grip then the FM is definitely superior to the DA for any hand size. The DA's height and angles are just trashy.


Really? Even though I use a palm grip on my Deathadder (due to personal preference), I find it easy and comfortable to use with any grip. Palm is definitely the grip it was made for, but I wouldn't say any of the other grips are impossible or "trashy." When I fingertip the Deathadder, my palm rests easily on the mouse mat and I can move the mouse with ease. I do have long fingers though. That might just be a per user complaint.


----------



## wareya

I have been using the DA since the 3.5g came out, I have a legitimate opinion. I also have long fingers and "my palm rests easily on the mouse mat" too. That doesn't mean that the shape isn't bad for my grip, it's just servicable. Even the KPM is better for me, and it has a big ol' lump sticking right out where my pinky goes.


----------



## tampix

One of my DA 3G sensor found a new home :




Kana v2 shell + wheel, Kinzu v1 pro front pcb, DA 3G v3 sensor pcb.

I knew i was right to buy some DA 3G for almost nothing just after the 3.5 came out









The 3G sensor is still my favorite sensor out of all the mice i have, with the MLT04 in WMO and IE3.0.


----------



## dwnfall

I picked up a DeathAdder Chroma from Best Buy today.. so far I love it. Big upgrade in the shape from the G303 pointy hell. I like that the area where the thumb rests is indented opposed to winged out or pointing out.. saving me a lot of pain in the thumb web area.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

You sir inspired me to drill more holes in my deathadder shell. A whopping 2.5 grams was taken off!

Yeah, it's hopeless.

The ugly duckling of all R1 deathadder 3g's. The Revision G.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wareya*
> 
> if you have a fingertip grip then the FM is definitely superior to the DA for any hand size. The DA's height and angles are just trashy.


I would say it's the other way around. The FM shape is really bad, the right side feels like **** for anything other than palm grip. The main button clicks and the weight are amazing and sensor is good, but that right side is so bad it's not usable for me.


----------



## pez

For my hands and the way they perspire, the grips on the 2013 and Chroma make it harder to fingertip-grip the mouse--however, still feasible should it be necessary. The BE has the best sides IMO, though it's slightly heavier...and that made a big difference for me before.


----------



## MechanimaL

why do you suggest that finalmouse thing ? half of the amazon reviews in my country say it stops working after about 4 weeks, that seems highly unreliable and yes I know DA has it's issues too in some cases but that seems like some serious problems..


----------



## wareya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daav1d*
> 
> I would say it's the other way around. The FM shape is really bad, the right side feels like **** for anything other than palm grip. The main button clicks and the weight are amazing and sensor is good, but that right side is so bad it's not usable for me.


It's funny, because the right side on the FM is literally the best thing that ever happened to my grip.


----------



## dwnfall

1000 or 500 Hz?

(I play LoL with 1800 DPI)


----------



## wareya

1000hz unless your computer can't handle it, then 500hz. You only lose ~0.5ms.


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

Got my self deathadder (had to see what's all the fuss about...).

Out of the box it worked ok, didn't try to test it extensively. However, reading on the internets I did hear that 3.5 (mine) is best to be used with firmware 2.33 and driver 3.03. Almost instantly i downloaded the stuff, installed and downgraded the firmware (at first it was on 2.45).

Problems arose immediately. When i boot into windows with the mouse plugged in, it seems that it's bugging out windows. Some icons on desktop don't respond, explorer uses back function by it self, etc. When I boot into windows the computer works fine.

Then I tried to revert back to 2.45 firmware, but the mouse still seems somewhat bugged. When i try to scroll (up or down), the screen goes one notch up, and then one notch down (and vice versa, depending on which direction the wheel is pulled).

Is there a way I can fix this to make it work? Any good stable firmwares???

I think it has to be a software/firmware problem, because the mouse seemed ok before my shananagans.

I'm on win 8.1 64bit, but I have tried it on the same computer (different partition/windows 7 32bit install), and the problem is still there.

Suggestions please.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obi.van.kenobi*
> 
> Got my self deathadder (had to see what's all the fuss about...).
> 
> Out of the box it worked ok, didn't try to test it extensively. However, reading on the internets I did hear that 3.5 (mine) is best to be used with firmware 2.33 and driver 3.03. Almost instantly i downloaded the stuff, installed and downgraded the firmware (at first it was on 2.45).
> 
> Problems arose immediately. When i boot into windows with the mouse plugged in, it seems that it's bugging out windows. Some icons on desktop don't respond, explorer uses back function by it self, etc. When I boot into windows the computer works fine.
> 
> Then I tried to revert back to 2.45 firmware, but the mouse still seems somewhat bugged. When i try to scroll (up or down), the screen goes one notch up, and then one notch down (and vice versa, depending on which direction the wheel is pulled).
> 
> Is there a way I can fix this to make it work? Any good stable firmwares???
> 
> I think it has to be a software/firmware problem, because the mouse seemed ok before my shananagans.
> 
> I'm on win 8.1 64bit, but I have tried it on the same computer (different partition/windows 7 32bit install), and the problem is still there.
> 
> Suggestions please.


You might want to check windows settings for the scrolling issue. In mouse and keyboard settings there is a way to adjust how many lines are scrolled and an option to scroll 1 page per scroll. Otherwise i would just reinstall all your mouse drivers and whatnot. If that still doesn't work, try different USB ports. Hope one of these helps!


----------



## dmasteR

Unable to help with your issue, but honestly you should have gotten the latest Deathadder and not a discontinued model. 3.5G has been discontinued for nearly two years..


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obi.van.kenobi*
> 
> Is there a way I can fix this to make it work? Any good stable firmwares???.


quoting an official razer rep: "it is not possible to downgrade the firmware of the mouse"

it's dangerous to downgrade firmware on the 3.5g, it can mess your mouse up, and could even kill it.
if you start up the drivers, does it actually say it's using firmware version 2.33?


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

Well, I got this deathadder dirt cheap, that's why i bought the old version.

Didn't know that downgrading is dangerous, esr forums suggest that you downgrade.

I have tried many different combinations, and the scroll wheel is still buged.

Would black edition firmware work on a regular 3.5g, since they are basically the same mouse (now I ask the question before flashing


----------



## tech99

I'm going to buy a DA pretty soon. I am thinking about getting a DA:BE. Actually my local store has DA 2013 (Green LED) ,Chroma and BE edition. Which one is most accurate in terms of tracking @ 800DPI?


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> The ugly duckling of all R1 deathadder 3g's. The Revision G.


Is there any info on DA 3G revisions? I've got an "E" revision. Wondering if it makes any difference.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> Is there any info on DA 3G revisions? I've got an "E" revision. Wondering if it makes any difference.


Thunda would probably know more. But I don't think so. Revision G was just the last of the R2 deathadders, so they were the cost down version.

Diamondback, Copperhead and Krait all had different pcb revisions throughout their product lives so it's no different.

Edit: For example the Copperhead. Revisions were 3.0, 3.1, 3.2. 3.3., 3.3A. 3.0 was the pre release press sample. After all the changes from 3.0 to 3.1, all the changes through to 3.3A were just different ic's and such.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obi.van.kenobi*
> 
> Would black edition firmware work on a regular 3.5g, since they are basically the same mouse (now I ask the question before flashing


the black edition has its own firmware, so my guess is no.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech99*
> 
> I'm going to buy a DA pretty soon. I am thinking about getting a DA:BE. Actually my local store has DA 2013 (Green LED) ,Chroma and BE edition. Which one is most accurate in terms of tracking @ 800DPI?


if you want 800dpi then i suggest the 2013 or chroma.
the black edition uses the 3.5g sensor, which tracks fine at 900dpi, but better at 1800.
still, i recommend the 2013 or chroma. they are way more flexible when it comes to dpi : )


----------



## Bucake

double post : (


----------



## tech99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> the black edition has its own firmware, so my guess is no.
> if you want 800dpi then i suggest the 2013 or chroma.
> the black edition uses the 3.5g sensor, which tracks fine at 900dpi, but better at 1800.
> still, i recommend the 2013 or chroma. they are way more flexible when it comes to dpi : )


But I don't want to install that POS Synapse. Without the Synapse, is there any way I can switch DPI by changing the profile or something?


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> the black edition has its own firmware, so my guess is no.
> if you want 800dpi then i suggest the 2013 or chroma.
> the black edition uses the 3.5g sensor, which tracks fine at 900dpi, but better at 1800.
> still, i recommend the 2013 or chroma. they are way more flexible when it comes to dpi : )
> 
> 
> 
> But I don't want to install that POS Synapse. Without the Synapse, is there any way I can switch DPI by changing the profile or something?
Click to expand...

I doubt it. To be honest, synapse 2.0 isn't as bad as people make it out to be. Just use what you need and leave the rest alone. It's not like the software is laggy. If say it's just as good as any other mouse software.


----------



## tech99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> I doubt it. To be honest, synapse 2.0 isn't as bad as people make it out to be. Just use what you need and leave the rest alone. It's not like the software is laggy. If say it's just as good as any other mouse software.


The last time I used a DA, Synapse didn't exist. I had to install Just another Razer driver software like any other mouse. I don't have any problem with Razer Synapse as long as it is not affecting the mouse performance negatively in any manner. I'm worried about having Synapse on as many people have commented that Synapse messes up the tracking of DA. Is it true?


----------



## mint567

If you are worried just install synapse and change the default settings if you need and uninstall. It is not required to use the mouse.


----------



## axipher

I have the installer for the Death Adder 3.02 software at home somewhere if anyone needs it. Pretty sure anyway


----------



## tech99

That I can do. But as I've said earlier, I need the ability to switch between at least 2 DPIs which can't be done if I uninstall Synapse. Is there any actual proof that Synpase indeed messes up the tracking?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech99*
> 
> That I can do. But as I've said earlier, I need the ability to switch between at least 2 DPIs which can't be done if I uninstall Synapse. Is there any actual proof that Synpase indeed messes up the tracking?


Synapse 2.0 is perfectly fine for mice that were made AFTER synapse 2.0 released, like the 2013/Chroma Deathadders. It will mess up tracking on OLDER mice, like the 3G/3.5G/BE Deathadder.

Synapse 2.0 also comes with some other garbage like razer stats manager, cloud backup, etc. These additional components are known to cause general computing issues, but as long as you disable them, you will be fine.


----------



## tech99

I see. Guess it's a choice between 2013 and Chroma then. Out of these two, which has the better sensor? Or do they both perform equally well in terms of trackong?


----------



## wareya

They're pretty much the same mouse. I don't know about possible minor differences, though.


----------



## Zero4549

Chroma technically has a higher max DPI, but you would have to be crazy to max out the DPI on even the 3.5G, never mind the 2013 or Chroma. Also it achieves this higher DPI via interpolation, so any DPI value above what the 2013 could achieve, will have inferior tracking on the Chroma (DPIs within the range that the 2013 is capable of, will track identically on the Chroma).

Aside from that, the only difference between the models is the lighting. Chroma has RGB lighting, 2013 has green lighting (and the "classic" or whatever its called is the same as the 2013 but with blue lighting).


----------



## tech99

I don't care much about all those high DPI marketing gimmicks. Max DPI I probably would ever need is 1800. But since both are more or less same, I would go with the Chroma. Will be receiving a EC1-A soon. Will try to post a comparison.


----------



## pez

I'd be curious to see that comparison. I'm considering giving a Zowie or even the FM 2015 a shot.


----------



## u-1980

Hi guys,

I have 2 questions for Chroma owners If someone can help. Please notice that the mouse is brand new right out of the box. SO about the questions:

1. What is the color coming from sensor of the mouse is it blue or red??
The color coming out from the sensor on mine is red, is it supposed to be blue like on previous versions or??

2. My mouse wheel have this annoying rattling sound. When you scroll down it is not that bad but when you scroll up it is pretty loud rattling sound it is rather annoying.
Also When u move mouse wheel left to right it has lots of space it feels pretty loose and makes clicking sounds..annoying. Anyone else experiencing same issues??
Thx in advance.

Greets


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u-1980*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have 2 questions for Chroma owners If someone can help. Please notice that the mouse is brand new right out of the box. SO about the questions:
> 
> 1. What is the color coming from sensor of the mouse is it blue or red??
> The color coming out from the sensor on mine is red, is it supposed to be blue like on previous versions or??
> 
> 2. My mouse wheel have this annoying rattling sound. When you scroll down it is not that bad but when you scroll up it is pretty loud rattling sound it is rather annoying.
> Also When u move mouse wheel left to right it has lots of space it feels pretty loose and makes clicking sounds..annoying. Anyone else experiencing same issues??
> Thx in advance.
> 
> Greets


I believe you either have a fake or a defect.

The new scroll wheel assembly is one of the major changes that distinguish the 2013/Chroma from older models. Your Chroma should have a very solid feeling. It should have little to no give either left or right, should not wobble or rattle, and should feel similar scrolling both up and down.

What you describe your wheel like sounds a lot more like the 3.5G/BE, but even those weren't too severe until they aged. The only really noticeable one on a new 3.5G/BE is usually the upward scrolling feeling a little less solid than downward.

As for the sensor LED, all Deathadder models have used an infrared sensor. The LED itself has varied a bit from dull red to basically true infrared (and thus invisible to the human eye). On my Chroma, you can see a very faint red if you have the lights off in your room and look at it from a very acute angle. Otherwise it is invisible.

The reason older models may have appeared blue is due to the blue LED lighting on the scroll wheel and Razer logo bleeding out the bottom a little bit. The Chroma has better isolation of the LEDs, so much less, if any, light should be bleeding from the visible LEDs into the sensor area.

Edited to remove phone keyboard autocorrect nonsense.


----------



## u-1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I believe you either have a fake or a defect.
> 
> The new scroll wheel assembly is one of the major changes that distinguish the 2013/Chroma from older models. Your Chroma SKILLS have a very solid feeling. It should have little to no give either left or right, should not wobble or rattle, and should feel similar scrolling both up and down.
> 
> What you describe your wheel like sounds a lot more like the 3.5G/BE, but even those weren't too severe until they aged. The only really noticeable one on a new 3.5G/BE is usually the upward scrolling feeling a little less solid than downward.
> 
> As for the sensor LED, all Deathadder models have used an infrared sensor. The LED itself has varied a bit from dull red to basically true infrared (and thus invisible to the human eye). On my Chroma, you can see a very faint red if you have the lights off in your room and look at it from a very acute angle. Otherwise it is invisible.
> 
> The reason older models may have appeared blue is due to the blue LED lighting on the scroll wheel and Razer logo bleeding out the bottom a little bit. The Chroma has better isolation of the LEDs, so much less, if any, light should be bleeding from the visible LEAds into the sensor area.


Hi,

First of all thx your your reply.

Mouse is genuine 100% and 100% brand new. It is recognized by Razer synapse and I can tell it is genuine because I had Razer mouse before and speed and mouse tracking is superb, just the problem with the scroll wheel noise and "loose" positioning of the scroll wheel.
The mouse is brand new was in sealed box. I ordered it from Taiwan of Ebay from top rated seller with 99% positive feedback and I am pretty sure that there are no fake items from Taiwan.

I searched on google a bit and found that many users have the same issue with loose and rattling scroll wheel.

I will contact the seller for solution.

Thx once again for help.

Greetings


----------



## granitov

*u-1980,* judging by the 2013 edition I could say that it has an IR LED (faint purple or reddish glow visible coming from the LED) and the rattling scroll wheel is OK.

As for the rattling wheel - don't be upset about it too much, a lot of modern gaming mice have that.


----------



## u-1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> *u-1980,* judging by the 2013 edition I could say that it has an IR LED (faint purple or reddish glow visible coming from the LED) and the rattling scroll wheel is OK.
> 
> As for the rattling wheel - don't be upset about it too much, a lot of modern gaming mice have that.


Thx for reply, yeah it's not that big of a deal the most important is that the mouse works perfectly I will get used to the rattling scroll sound eventually


----------



## granitov

*u-1980,* you could hand-make a spring for the wheel if you wish to disassemble the mouse.


----------



## philhalo66

My deathadder 2013 just got the dreaded double click. Should i RMA it or just replace the microswitch? Also what microswitch should i get for it if i do decide to replace it?


----------



## exitone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> My deathadder 2013 just got the dreaded double click. Should i RMA it or just replace the microswitch? Also what microswitch should i get for it if i do decide to replace it?


rma as replacing microswitch will void warranty


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exitone*
> 
> rma as replacing microswitch will void warranty


I know, but i been thinking that all they will do is send me a used refurb that will get the same problem a few months down the road but if i swap out the microswitch it will fix it for alot longer plus my mouse looks brand new i dont want some scratched up refurb.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> I know, but i been thinking that all they will do is send me a used refurb that will get the same problem a few months down the road but if i swap out the microswitch it will fix it for alot longer plus my mouse looks brand new i dont want some scratched up refurb.


i don't believe razer would send out "refurbs" in RMA cases.
to "refurb" would be way more expensive for them, than just shipping out a new one.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> i don't believe razer would send out "refurbs" in RMA cases.
> to "refurb" would be way more expensive for them, than just shipping out a new one.


the RMA request Email i got said

"The replacement unit may or may not include the original box and packaging that came with the unit. Some replacements are simply sent out in a plain brown box and packaging. Rest assured your replacement unit is a genuine Razer refurbished product that is fully tested and warranted for the full length of your original warranty period or for 90 days whichever is greater."


----------



## the1onewolf

When I RMA'd my chroma I got a new one in a new box.
Very fast and simple process too.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> the RMA request Email i got said
> 
> "The replacement unit may or may not include the original box and packaging that came with the unit. Some replacements are simply sent out in a plain brown box and packaging. Rest assured your replacement unit is a genuine Razer refurbished product that is fully tested and warranted for the full length of your original warranty period or for 90 days whichever is greater."


this is kind of...


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> this is kind of...


unacceptable?


----------



## KenRayadon

Looking to buy a deathadder. Where ought I buy it?

I'm looking at a used one. I'm not sure if it's genuine. This is the only image: http://gyazo.com/6f4c76a863e2e3cf1c5b62649507d197
Is that genuine?

Are these genuine?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3-5G-3500-DPI-Gaming-Mouse-100-NEW-/121527314772?rmvSB=true


----------



## AuraDesruu

I think it's real...
It has a gold plated USB connector


----------



## KenRayadon

Got a second image, the used one looks real (no wavey poor-quality plastic)...

Looks like one of the old versions... which one is it?

It's still a good mouse, right?

http://gyazo.com/584c7520c5d876888f506fcd729e97c0


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenRayadon*
> 
> Got a second image, the used one looks real (no wavey poor-quality plastic)...
> 
> Looks like one of the old versions... which one is it?
> 
> It's still a good mouse, right?
> 
> http://gyazo.com/584c7520c5d876888f506fcd729e97c0


Not sure since i don't have my deathadder with me (on vacation). I do see the serial number is not directly under the Barcode, and the cord has what looks like a camera USB thing (for lack of a better term) that I'm pretty sure isn't on my chroma. May want to get a second opinion though.


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenRayadon*
> 
> Looking to buy a deathadder. Where ought I buy it?
> 
> I'm looking at a used one. I'm not sure if it's genuine. This is the only image: http://gyazo.com/6f4c76a863e2e3cf1c5b62649507d197
> Is that genuine?
> 
> Are these genuine?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3-5G-3500-DPI-Gaming-Mouse-100-NEW-/121527314772?rmvSB=true


dont ever buy razer products from ebay 2 reasons 1. no warranty razer will flat out refuse to give you any support if you mention its from ebay 2. those mice from china are knock offs don't trust them they are junk. I buy my razer stuff from newegg.


----------



## granitov

*KenRayadon,* takasta's one (from Ebay) is legit. The used one on the photos also looks legit judging by the sticker (it's the 3G v3).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66*
> 
> dont ever buy razer products from ebay 2 reasons 1. no warranty razer will flat out refuse to give you any support if you mention its from ebay 2. those mice from china are knock offs don't trust them they are junk. I buy my razer stuff from newegg.


Who ever buys used stuff from Ebay hoping to claim the warranty?


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> *KenRayadon,* takasta's one (from Ebay) is legit. The used one on the photos also looks legit judging by the sticker (it's the 3G v3).
> Who ever buys used stuff from Ebay hoping to claim the warranty?


even if it's new stuff razer will void the warranty if it's from ebay


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> Who ever buys used stuff from Ebay hoping to claim the warranty?


A great number of people. People generally do dumb things.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

I finally opened one of the several sealed Guild Wars DA's I have.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I was met with this. I thought Guild Wars DA's were R3's?

So it's an R2 Rev:G with R3 on the box and sticker underneath the mouse. Classic Razer incompetence. So I don't actually own a R3 Deathadder. I'm okay with that, I guess.


----------



## granitov

*uaokkkkkkkk,* why do you even need a R3? The say it's pretty much the 3.5G with a tad bit lower lod and 1800 dpi.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> *uaokkkkkkkk,* why do you even need a R3? The say it's pretty much the 3.5G with a tad bit lower lod and 1800 dpi.


Yeah not something you normally see someone whine about. Just thought I could see if the R3 had a different internal debounce delay compared to R2.


----------



## thuNDa

R2 is lighter by ~6g compared to R3.
later R2's(which the GW ed. probably is) use cheapo switches tho, and have a bit stiffer cable.
R2's coating lasts longer tho - from all the shells i kept when building a kinzuadder, ALL R3 coatings became sticky and easy to scrape off.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> R2 is lighter by ~6g compared to R3.
> later R2's(which the GW ed. probably is) use cheapo switches tho, and have a bit stiffer cable.
> R2's coating lasts longer tho - from all the shells i kept when building a kinzuadder, ALL R3 coatings became sticky and easy to scrape off.


I actually sorta like Sweeta DM1 switches. Lower quality than Omron of course.


----------



## Patryk249

Hello,

Does anyone of you know if rubbered, plastic top from DA 1800DPI is compatible with DA Chroma edition? I've got a totally broken DA1800 and I can buy cheaply Chroma with broken top.


----------



## granitov

*Patryk249,* no, it isn't. You would need another Chroma or 2013 shell.


----------



## Biscuits

Morning all,

Looking for a little guidance. Recently treated myself to the Razer Deathadder Chroma 2014. Up until then I've been using the Logitech MX510 / MX518 for years and fancied a change - tried the G500s on a friend's PC and immediately didn't get on with it.

Having used Logitech's for so many years I'm still getting used to the Razer shape/feel which is normal I imagine. However I've an issue regarding the enabling/disabling of mouse acceleration, particularly within FPS games.

For testing purposes I set the Razer the same as what my MX518 was (as a starting point):

DPI: 800
Polling: 125

The Synapse Software as you know gives the option of acceleration - of which I chose 1.

The issue I'm having in-game is when I'm strafing _left_ (for example) but moving my mouse _right_ (looking around corners etc) - the cursor is barely moving right unless I really "snap" the mouse to the right. If I try and do it slowly I hardly turn.

This suggests the acceleration is the problem? Not even sure if the MX518 had on-board acceleration truth be told.

I've turned off "use acceleration" in the game settings and that helps to an extent but it's still notably off.

I appreciate there's always going to be a bit of difference going from one mouse form-factor to another but at the moment FPS games feel really unintuitive to play. Any feedback would be appreciated.


----------



## pez

Have you tried a 500hz polling rate? Try to set it to 500hz/800DPI and uninstall synapse. It'll keep your settings stores on the mouse. This way you can somewhat rule out the Synapse software as a culprit.


----------



## Biscuits

Right ok I'll try that tonight. Many thanks.

Wondering if enabling acceleration within the game but turning it off on the mouse might help. But then I suspect there's no acceleration for the game to see. Conundrum.


----------



## granitov

*Biscuits,* I'd avoid using any Synapse settings besides DPI, polling rate and LED control. Just set them to your preferences ([email protected]) and uninstall Synapse. If you need accel use game settings.


----------



## Biscuits

Thank you both for suggesting I remove Synapse - this has pretty much solved the problem for me - which is both a relief and frustrating.

A relief in I can now actually play FPS games, but frustrating in that a software suite essentially breaks the product *it was made for*? Madness.

Sorted now - largely just a case of getting used to the new mouse shape.

With regards to acceleration on the mouse itself - is it best practice to disable it completely and rely on game settings as you said? I suppose it's personal preference. I only ask as I believe the MX518 had acceleration on it (Enhanced Pointer Precision) according to the Logitech software:



However that wouldn't have been set on the mouse itself due to no on-board memory. So how would that effect the inherent Enhanced Pointer Precision setting in Windows Control Panel > Mouse Settings?


----------



## pez

Ideally that's what you want. Even fro CS:GO, it's recommended that if you want to use any type of acceleration that you do it in game. *Usually* you can fine tune it more in games. That's not always the case, though.


----------



## wareya

Using source engine acceleration.

Enjoy your blisters.


----------



## Mych

Tbh it's very rare for a game to offer good customization for acceleration. Good mouse customization options are rare enough.


----------



## wareya

Source engine mouse acceleration is framerate dependent. Even if it weren't, it's not in sync with updates from your mouse drivers. It's best to use windows acceleration or driver-level acceleration like the pov's.


----------



## pez

Ah, maybe I was wrong then. I don't use acceleration at all, so I'm a bad judge at that.


----------



## granitov

Well, I've never played the new CS, but Quake Live's acceleration settings feel pretty consistent to me. I think it's dependant on the engine. And the asker never told what exact game does he play.


----------



## wareya

quake live is a game with correctly functioning mouse acceleration. pov's driver is even called "the quake mouse acceleration driver".

source engine mouse acceleration simply does not work correctly and you should not use it period unless you have either a consistent capped framerate which is roughly an even division of your mouse's polling rate, or a framerate which is faster than your mouse's polling rate (which is a minority of players)


----------



## KenRayadon

Thank you guys for verifying the ebay link is legit. The deathadder I got is mostly functioning (and legit), but intermittently stops dragging (sending mouse1down when it's held down physically). Luckily, the seller seems to want to let me return it. I'll be having to order from ebay then.

I don't hope to claim warranty on it. Either it works until warranty would have ended anyway, or I'll have money to buy a better mouse by the time it breaks.

What really shocked me is how good the tracking is compared to any other mice I had. I felt like the IME 3.0 was the end-all, but this kicks its ass...


----------



## KenRayadon

Thank you guys for verifying the ebay link is legit. The deathadder I got is mostly functioning (and legit), but intermittently stops dragging (sending mouse1down when it's held down physically). Luckily, the seller seems to want to let me return it. I'll be having to order from ebay then.

I don't hope to claim warranty on it. Either it works until warranty would have ended anyway, or I'll have money to buy a better mouse by the time it breaks.

What really shocked me is how good the tracking is compared to any other mice I had. I felt like the IME 3.0 was the end-all, but this kicks its ass...


----------



## pez

Yeah, I'm back to using my DeathAdder 2013 for a 2-week spurt to pretty much confirm my thoughts in comparing it to the SS Rival. I want to get another couple of mouses to try as well to make one big review. The Rival has just as good of a sensor, but somewhere in the way that feels natural to swipe fast with it, and the way the sensor is placed on the mouse, I don't get a 'straight' side-to-side swipe like I do with the DeathAdder. However, I will let the next week and some days do the story-telling.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenRayadon*
> 
> I'll be having to order from ebay then.


I know a lot of people love buying off Ebay (me included) but if you want 100% authenticity, why not buy it from Razer's Retail webstore?

No worries about getting a product that's 100% supported via RMA returns, without question.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

I thought this was interesting. For some reason after fw1.31ndc came out for the DA 3G, instead of using that as a framework to base 1.33ndc on, 1.33ndc used 1.28ndc's base instead. Which is why the debounce times are bizarrely lower on 1.33ndc(not the same level as 1.28 so I assume who ever was programming compromised), but every firmware after that it's doubled.


----------



## KenRayadon

Just got the mouse. It's legit, and I'm now very happy I returned the original 1800. The texture of the mouse is much better too.

There wouldn't happen to be 3D models for the "grip" ie. part that has the logo? Getting a custom 3D printed one would be neat...


----------



## Bastynasterd

Hello all,

I have a Deathadder 3.5G running on Windows 7 64 bit with the *"Razer DeathAdder 3.5G Windows Driver v3.05" legacy driver* (no synapse)

I was wondering if the legacy driver will still work under Windows 10, since i will probably be upgrading soon, had anybody tested it yet?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## daniel0731ex

Yes.


----------



## NicoNicoNii

I just got a Chroma, does the mouse save settings if I uninstall Synapse after changing DPI and stuff?


----------



## daniel0731ex

Yes,


----------



## Melan

Mouse saves only CPI step (steps?) and polling with synapse gone.


----------



## pez

Should also save any LOD settings as well. It's basically just hard-programming the settings into the chip.


----------



## hasukka

Do DA 2013 and DA Chroma have the same sensor performance and little to no smoothing with proper firmware?


----------



## pez

I believe it's the same sensor to the 'T'. The only difference is the lighting customization and that it is software 'enhanced' to provide a higher DPI.


----------



## snaf2k

cool thread its exactly for me all previous MX518s still got one from Battlefield 2 pack and now Razer DEATHADDER CHROMA (all capital) its a mouse that can me described only with capital letters - the best - 10,000 dpi


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snaf2k*
> 
> cool thread its exactly for me all previous MX518s still got one from Battlefield 2 pack and now Razer DEATHADDER CHROMA (all capital) its a mouse that can me described only with capital letters - the best - 10,000 dpi


You don actually use 10,000 DPI do you?


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snaf2k*
> 
> cool thread its exactly for me all previous MX518s still got one from Battlefield 2 pack and now Razer DEATHADDER CHROMA (all capital) its a mouse that can me described only with capital letters - the best - 10,000 dpi


Imma let you be happy, but your mouse got pwned by Razer MAMBA TOURNAMENT CHROMA EDITION's 16,000 dpis.


----------



## snaf2k

That mamba tournament seems great. I'm used to that shape, been using similar for like 17+ years.. but 16k sensor refresh is nice... even though i'd probably be using default 1800 even if i got mamba chroma... 1800 is my comfort sliding rate


----------



## eXecuution

It's a sad day. My DA 2013 scroll wheel click died







everything else works fine. Ordered a SS rival to replace it, will eventually getting around to replacing the microswitch in the deathadder to use it as a backup mouse.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eXecuution*
> 
> It's a sad day. My DA 2013 scroll wheel click died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> everything else works fine. Ordered a SS rival to replace it, will eventually getting around to replacing the microswitch in the deathadder to use it as a backup mouse.


I'm sure Razer would honor their warranty if you registered the product on their site or in Synapse. Maybe you could get a new 2013 all together.


----------



## Snakesoul

Just curious... In the new model, chroma do you have to put extra skates to lower lod? I remember when I had my black edition I had to put an extra pair to lower lod...


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Just curious... In the new model, chroma do you have to put extra skates to lower lod? I remember when I had my black edition I had to put an extra pair to lower lod...


Stock 2013/Chroma's LOD is lower than your Black Edition. You can also lower your LOD in synapse.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snakesoul*
> 
> Just curious... In the new model, chroma do you have to put extra skates to lower lod? I remember when I had my black edition I had to put an extra pair to lower lod...


Even though the lift-off distance is lower, a few of the Deathadder experts here (Zero4549) recommend putting extra feet on top of the originals to remove the bottoming out that the Deathadder models seem to have. I've done this myself, and the Deathadder feels better and the sensor reads identically, at least from what I can feel in games.


----------



## eXecuution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> I'm sure Razer would honor their warranty if you registered the product on their site or in Synapse. Maybe you could get a new 2013 all together.


hopefully, will definitely look into it


----------



## hella

Hey guys,

I've finally graduated my university and I'll be able to devote more time to gaming.

Look for updates to come. Most of the stuff for the Chroma and 2013 are out there, but nothings put in one, condensed place.

Major updates will come with newly released deathadders. Keep your eyes peeled!


----------



## AuraDesruu

I just realized that the chroma I recieved today
the switch on the left is louder than that of the right switch
It's also noticibly harder to press the left than the right
Is this normal?


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraDesruu*
> 
> I just realized that the chroma I recieved today
> the switch on the left is louder than that of the right switch
> It's also noticibly harder to press the left than the right
> Is this normal?


Pretty much. DA's are known for sensitive/light clicks, especially the right one. It was even worse on the '13 iirc.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraDesruu*
> 
> I just realized that the chroma I received today
> the switch on the left is louder than that of the right switch
> It's also noticeably harder to press the left than the right
> Is this normal?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> Pretty much. DA's are known for sensitive/light clicks, especially the right one. It was even worse on the '13 iirc.


Both Deathadders are made with excessively light click force. The 2013 model is rated with less of a click force than the Chroma model. You have to remember that the Deathadder is made for the professional gamers in mind. Folks like ScreaM are very "clicky" people who probably prefer the light click force. If you find yourself clicking accidentally, don't worry. You will get used to it over time. I had a very "fat-finger" experience when I first got my Deathadder Chroma. As for the left click being harder to press than the right click, I have the same experience. I think it may be to compensate for those who use their third or fourth finger on the right mouse button instead of the middle finger like I tend to do. Also, the left switch being louder is probably due to it having a heavier click force. Your Deathadder is normal though. Nothing to worry about.


----------



## pez

I'll have to test. It may be because my 2013 was older, but I just got my Chroma and the clicking didn't feel too much different. However, I've been doing consistently better with the same settings. I doubt it's so much the hardware for me than just the psychological aspect of it lol.


----------



## AuraDesruu

My friend reported the same feeling with the chroma that I gave to him. The left click is more tactile compared to that of the right is what I'm trying to say. The left click feels like steelseries switch and the right click feels like a G402's omron switch.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraDesruu*
> 
> My friend reported the same feeling with the chroma that I gave to him. The left click is more tactile compared to that of the right is what I'm trying to say. The left click feels like steelseries switch and the right click feels like a G402's omron switch.


My chroma is the other way around, with the right click being more tactile than the left. It is a minor difference though that you really would never notice in actual use and only when examining it critically trying to find flaws, and is something that is not unique to the Deathadder but rather universal to any mouse that has asymmetrical buttons.


----------



## AuraDesruu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> My chroma is the other way around, with the right click being more tactile than the left. It is a minor difference though that you really would never notice in actual use and only when examining it critically trying to find flaws, and is something that is not unique to the Deathadder but rather universal to any mouse that has asymmetrical buttons.


So it's completely normal for the clicks to be less tactile on the right then left because of the shell design right? People have talked about how the ergonomic shape of the mouse changes the feedback you recieve due to the shell design. I notice this on my Steelseries rival, G303, and my G402.
Majority of the time, my left click on my steelseries rival is stiffer than my right click on the mouse. However, the G402, G303, FK1's right click had a stiffer tactile feel than that of the left click on the mice. I don't know whether I should get my deathadder RMAed.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraDesruu*
> 
> So it's completely normal for the clicks to be less tactile on the right then left because of the shell design right? People have talked about how the ergonomic shape of the mouse changes the feedback you recieve due to the shell design. I notice this on my Steelseries rival, G303, and my G402.
> Majority of the time, my left click on my steelseries rival is stiffer than my right click on the mouse. However, the G402, G303, FK1's right click had a stiffer tactile feel than that of the left click on the mice. I don't know whether I should get my deathadder RMAed.


It isn't always one side or the other, but yes, it is normal for the clicks to feel a little different from each other on ergonomic mice because ergonomic mice by design are not symmetrical. If the right click button is larger than the left click, for instance, it will press on the microswitch with different force and angle, causing a slightly different feel.


----------



## DanzoMeteor

So am I right here? You can't set this mouse to 800 dpi?


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

I always wondered how bad the Deathadder V1 was. I thought it could be enlightening to track one down and experience it's supposed awfulness.

However, I realized I didn't need to track one down.....

I already had one! The Diamondback 3G!


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanzoMeteor*
> 
> So am I right here? You can't set this mouse to 800 dpi?


I can set my DA Chroma to 800 DPI no problem.


----------



## DanzoMeteor

Great, does it work without interpolating the Cpi?
Some reason when I test the G100s, 850cpi still appears as 800 in the ruler measurement tests


----------



## pez

The DA should have native steps of either 400 or 800, so yes, either way, 800 should definitely work. For some reason, it's set to 1000 at default, though.


----------



## wareya

aren't its native DPIs 450 and 900?


----------



## qsxcv

no mouse is 450 native
3988 and 3989 are native on every step


----------



## wareya

is the 3888's native dpi 1800, then?


----------



## qsxcv

i think 1800 and 3500 or something like that
http://www.overclock.net/t/1397590/deathadder-native-dpi/0_100#post_20115895


----------



## pez

Hmm could be. I'm having no issues on 800 DPI, though.


----------



## pilgor

My Deathadders' cord is all kinked up, frayed and in just bad condition. I don't want another braided cord. Can I use a replacement Logitech cord off ebay instead of a replacement deathadder cord?


----------



## raucous

My Deathadder 2013 cord is also in poor nick. Mouse is nearly two years old. Cord is now difficult to loop on my desk.

On another topic - do any owners here utilise the 'sensitivity clutch' (sniper button) mouse function in Synapse?

I do, and occasionally when I press the button it causes the mouse to lose all signal









I have to then restart the computer or disconnect and reconnect the Deathadder to restore functionality. Once I reconnect the mouse the mouse sensitivity in Synapse is changed to my clutch setting.

Have any owners experienced this issue?

I have completed a warranty claim form with my retailer, however, the issue is so hard to replicate I'm unlikely to return the mouse.

I don't know if the issue is to do with my particular mouse or the driver (seems more likely). I reported the issue directly to Razer however have not heard back.


----------



## pez

I'd get it replaced and try again. Does the mouse lose all power/lights? If that's the case, it almost sounds like a hardware issue. Potentially driver, but no power is no bueno.


----------



## Zero4549

I use synapse as minimally as possible, so I have no experience with the sniper button.

As for the cords - you can use any cord with the same connector, but if the cord is particularly thin or thick you may need to make some slight modifications to it to make it fit through the opening in the front of the mouse and also to stay in place. A little shaving of the protective coating and/or hot glue usually works.

That said, I never understood how people have so much issue with braided cords. The only scenario I can see them really being an issue is when using them flat on large cloth mouse pads, due to the extra friction of cloth on cloth. I've never had a braided cord on a mouse, headphone, or anything else develop the kinking issues everyone seems to have. Perhaps there is a bigger issue to address than just the material of the cord.


----------



## raucous

I'm not sure if the power/lights turn off the Deathadder when it stops working - I will have to monitor this next time. Usually I'm in the middle of an entertaining game when suddenly my mouse stops working. I normally ctrl + alt + del and use tab and the arrow keys to close the game and restart the computer. I have now connected another mouse via USB for when this problem occurs next









I have tried replicating the problem in windows by button bashing and pressing sensitivity clutch in quick succession together with other mouse buttons - I have been unable to crash the mouse on purpose so far. It is a rare event but still unacceptable. I'm worried that if I do return the mouse under warranty they will likely test it, find no problem and then return the mouse to me


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raucous*
> 
> I'm not sure if the power/lights turn off the Deathadder when it stops working - I will have to monitor this next time. Usually I'm in the middle of an entertaining game when suddenly my mouse stops working. I normally ctrl + alt + del and use tab and the arrow keys to close the game and restart the computer. I have now connected another mouse via USB for when this problem occurs next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried replicating the problem in windows by button bashing and pressing sensitivity clutch in quick succession together with other mouse buttons - I have been unable to crash the mouse on purpose so far. It is a rare event but still unacceptable. I'm worried that if I do return the mouse under warranty they will likely test it, find no problem and then return the mouse to me


I would try to include visual proof of the defect before I send it back for a warranty claim.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I use synapse as minimally as possible, so I have no experience with the sniper button.
> 
> As for the cords - you can use any cord with the same connector, but if the cord is particularly thin or thick you may need to make some slight modifications to it to make it fit through the opening in the front of the mouse and also to stay in place. A little shaving of the protective coating and/or hot glue usually works.
> 
> That said, I never understood how people have so much issue with braided cords. The only scenario I can see them really being an issue is when using them flat on large cloth mouse pads, due to the extra friction of cloth on cloth. I've never had a braided cord on a mouse, headphone, or anything else develop the kinking issues everyone seems to have. Perhaps there is a bigger issue to address than just the material of the cord.


I'm kinda in the same mindset of braided cables, too. I really like them. If anything, I'm not a huge fan of my Rivals non-braided cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raucous*
> 
> I'm not sure if the power/lights turn off the Deathadder when it stops working - I will have to monitor this next time. Usually I'm in the middle of an entertaining game when suddenly my mouse stops working. I normally ctrl + alt + del and use tab and the arrow keys to close the game and restart the computer. I have now connected another mouse via USB for when this problem occurs next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried replicating the problem in windows by button bashing and pressing sensitivity clutch in quick succession together with other mouse buttons - I have been unable to crash the mouse on purpose so far. It is a rare event but still unacceptable. I'm worried that if I do return the mouse under warranty they will likely test it, find no problem and then return the mouse to me


Try it in a USB 3.0 port and a USB 2.0 port as well. If you've got all 3.0 ports, you may need to enable a legacy mode for the ones you can to try. I can't imagine that happening in a game like CS:GO for me, because I'd throw a mouse quick for that lol.


----------



## raucous

I still have a 1366 platform and have no USB 3 ports. Recently I have tried the mouse in a different USB 2 port and the problems still occurs. I will take a picture of the mouse when it stops working again.


----------



## pez

Keep us updated. Hopefully when it comes to a replacement, they don't try to push you around.


----------



## qu6te

Hey, has anyone had any type of experience with the white glossy deathadder? Seems to be released only in some parts of Asia and Brazil. Funnily enough it has no side buttons, and seems to be sporting the s3688 and a nice white rubber cable.







The packaging seems legit so idk if its a fake or not. Looks pretty real.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qu6te*
> 
> Hey, has anyone had any type of experience with the white glossy deathadder? Seems to be released only in some parts of Asia and Brazil. Funnily enough it has no side buttons, and seems to be sporting the s3688 and a nice white rubber cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The packaging seems legit so idk if its a fake or not. Looks pretty real.


Seems to be an update to the PCBANG edition, which was essentially a cut down cheaper version sold to internet/gaming cafes in Asia.


----------



## daunow

I think mines is ******* up already, lasted me around a year so it's fine.

anyways the problem i am having is that it double clicks for some reason every now and than


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daunow*
> 
> I think mines is ******* up already, lasted me around a year so it's fine.
> 
> anyways the problem i am having is that it double clicks for some reason every now and than


Dirty or damaged microswitches. You can clean/fix/replace them for less than 5 bucks and in less than 10 min.


----------



## daunow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Dirty or damaged microswitches. You can clean/fix/replace them for less than 5 bucks and in less than 10 min.


Probably gonna end up getting a new mouse, but thanks for telling me tough.


----------



## pez

Before doing so, unless you're just in for something different, take some canned air and gently lift the mouse button. Blow some air in there and see if that helps. You can also use some electrical cleaner (unplug first) and clean it the same way.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Before doing so, unless you're just in for something different, take some canned air and gently lift the mouse button. Blow some air in there and see if that helps. You can also use some electrical cleaner (unplug first) and clean it the same way.


If you use electrical contact cleaner (which I do highly suggest for dirty switches), you should really open the mouse and apply it directly to the switches rather than just spraying it in through the openings in the outer shell and hoping it lands in the right spots.

If you use one that is safe on plastics (which you should) it won't be a big deal either way, but there is a good chance you will totally miss the switch and do nothing, causing you to think the switch is broken when it is really still just dirty.

You also run the risk of getting the sensor or lense dirty, and while it won't do any permanent damage, it will negatively affect tracking until you open the mouse up and clean them properly, so you might as well just open it and apply the cleaner right the first time.


----------



## pez

Yeah. I had a friend just use canned air and it's worked perfectly for him since.


----------



## ljubinko

I have deathadder 3G v3, do i need to use razer synapse or legacy drivers to change dpi what is better.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Nope just use the old legacy drivers.


----------



## ljubinko

Thanks.


----------



## mr squishy

My Deathadder Black Edition doesn't track on white surfaces, is this a known issue?


----------



## ljubinko

After i set dpi in synapse and uninstal synapse dpi is not saved, if anyone know why.


----------



## Bashslash

You always need synase on to save settings


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bashslash*
> 
> You always need synase on to save settings


Don't use synapse for 3 or 3.5G. On 4G and Chroma, DPI, polling rate, lightning etc is saved after you uninstall synapse.


----------



## Bashslash

My msitake then, thank you


----------



## raucous

Well I returned my Deathadder to the retailer. I sent a video of the mouse demonstrating the problem and they agreed to offer a credit. When the mouse failed the lighting remains on but the mouse doesn't work. I was given a credit for the original purcahse price of the mouse so I bought the new Deathadder Chroma. The Chroma is very similar compared to the 2013 model. The scroll wheel on the Chroma has more defined notches and the scroll click is slightly stiffer to click - not sure if I like these differences or not. Unfortunately the scroll wheel on my new Chroma is noisy whereas my 2013 DA was silent. I like how the DPI steps on the Chroma can be adjusted in steps of 50 compared to the 100 for the 2013 model.

For some reason the Chroma does not always work when I boot into Windows and sometimes I will need to disconnect the mouse and reconnect it to get the mouse pointer to move

Before using the Chroma I immediately stacked new mouse feet on the stock feet to help lower lift off distance and prevent any 'belly dragging'. I also applied some PTFE Tape I purcahsed from a very popular online retailer. The new mouse feet are nothing special but the mouse tape is amazing and greatly reduces friction. It makes a used/worn QCK feel quick. I highly recommend it. The mouse tape is very thin and would be best used on a soft pad.

I would link the mouse tape but not sure if there are forum rules preventing this sort of thing.


----------



## pez

You're not advertising for personal gain (well I assume so at least), so it won't hurt to post. I got some Hyperglides for my Deathadder(s) for Xmas, and I really enjoy them. The Tiger Gaming feet were nice, but I'd say they're about 85-90% as 'smooth' as the Hyperglides. I would go so far to say on a QcK Heavy (the thicker, denser, and less smooth version) that the Hyperglides may be a better match and on the QcK+ (not as thick, though the same WxD & smoother surface) the TG feet may be better. I am liking the HG feet on the QcK+, though.

Glad they were able to take care of you, though.


----------



## raucous

The mouse feet I stacked are not Hyperglides but something similar and probably not as good as Hyperglides.

The mouse tape I used is linked below. The tape is available in a 0.5 inch width and 1 inch width from available from Amazon. I bought the 0.5 inch width tape and luckily it just covers the feet on the DA. I do not recommend layering the mouse tape as the tape would get caught.

0.5 inch: http://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-PTFE-Mouse-Color/dp/B003DZ16X4?tag=hardfocom-20
1 inch: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000REJN48?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The fact that my DA does not work when Windows is first booted is getting a bit annoying. Is this sort of thing common?


----------



## pez

I've had it happen with my keyboard a couple times, but usually never a problem with any of my recent mouse(s). This includes the DA2013, SS Rival and DA Chroma. I want to say I got my KB issue addressed between KB drivers, motherboard drivers and playing with USB settings and BIOS. I know that's a bit vague, but maybe it's a start?


----------



## raucous

Thanks. I have a dual boot system with Ubuntu which the mouse works fine. I'll look into it.


----------



## pez

Hmm, do you select which to boot each time, or is it an auto-boot to one partition unless a certain key combo is pressed? My thought is it could be trying to load up very basic drivers initially and that could be causing a conflict. Maybe when pulling up your Windows side, try to open device manager to see how it reacts as your PC is being booted. Possibly check out event viewer, too.


----------



## Twiffle

Is the DeathAdder Chroma same size as the 3g - 3.5g Deathadders?


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Is the DeathAdder Chroma same size as the 3g - 3.5g Deathadders?


Yeah, only difference is weight I believe.

*Razer DeathAdder Chroma Specs:*
Approximate size: 127mm/5" (Length) x 70mm/2.76" (Width) x 44mm/ 1.73" (Height)
Approximate weight: 105g/0.23lbs

The Deathadder 3G/3.5G was 148grams / 0.33lbs


----------



## granitov

150g with cord. 105-108 without


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> 150g with cord. 105-108 without


Is that confirming my post was correct, or saying it was wrong? Not sure if the DA 3G/3.5G listed @ 148g/0.33lbs was with cord, and the DA 2013/Chroma listed @ 105g/0.23lbs is without cord.


----------



## agsz

Anyone here use their DeathAdder on a Zowie G-SR mousepad? I've never used _*Surface Calibration*_ in the past with my SteelSeries QcK Heavy since the Lift off Distance felt fine, but on the Zowie G-SR pad it felt like it doubled. I can literally pick it up a bit off the pad and it tracks still.

Also curious how people feel about Surface Calibration now, since a while back in this thread people said it was buggy and to stay away from it.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Anyone here use their DeathAdder on a Zowie G-SR mousepad? I've never used _*Surface Calibration*_ in the past with my SteelSeries QcK Heavy since the Lift off Distance felt fine, but on the Zowie G-SR pad it felt like it doubled. I can literally pick it up a bit off the pad and it tracks still.
> 
> Also curious how people feel about Surface Calibration now, since a while back in this thread people said it was buggy and to stay away from it.


Surface calibration is something I have stayed away from ever since it gave me tracking issues. I stacked my mouse feet and the surface calibration completely screwed up, even after I recalibrated. I would stay away unless the stock mouse LOD or something is giving you trouble.


----------



## Twiffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Yeah, only difference is weight I believe.
> 
> *Razer DeathAdder Chroma Specs:*
> Approximate size: 127mm/5" (Length) x 70mm/2.76" (Width) x 44mm/ 1.73" (Height)
> Approximate weight: 105g/0.23lbs
> 
> The Deathadder 3G/3.5G was 148grams / 0.33lbs


Hmmh. Just had to be sure since seen reviews and in some of them the Chroma looks much bigger. And oddly it seems Chroma is lighter than the previous versions.


----------



## falcon26

What is the default DPI and polling rate of the Chroma?


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> What is the default DPI and polling rate of the Chroma?


1800 DPI @ 500Hz, I believe.


----------



## falcon26

I have the Chroma, just got the Mionix Castor. At first I started liking the Castor better. But I almost finding myself going back to the Chroma. I like a fingertip/Claw grip and I have large hands. All the reviews I have seen say the Castor is the new King of Mice. I'm finding that I'm leaning towards the Chroma again, am I nuts?


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I have the Chroma, just got the Mionix Castor. At first I started liking the Castor better. But I almost finding myself going back to the Chroma. I like a fingertip/Claw grip and I have large hands. All the reviews I have seen say the Castor is the new King of Mice. I'm finding that I'm leaning towards the Chroma again, am I nuts?


You are certainly not crazy. I've been playing with mine for about 3 days now, at first i liked it too, now ? Noooot as much, idk why, i will say it could be that i feel it's just a tad too small in some ways. The hump is more centered which is fine by me, but it is lower than the Ec1-A(which is thus far my favorite mouse) in height.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I have the Chroma, just got the Mionix Castor. At first I started liking the Castor better. But I almost finding myself going back to the Chroma. I like a fingertip/Claw grip and I have large hands. All the reviews I have seen say the Castor is the new King of Mice. I'm finding that I'm leaning towards the Chroma again, am I nuts?


It's probably just the joy of a different feeling. When I have to use other mice (whether good or bad) I always tend to get a feeling of relief when I return to my main peripherals.


----------



## obikenobi27

This is kind of unrelated to the DeathAdder, but more to just Razer in particular. Does anybody know where I can get a 10-keyless Blackwidow with MX Brown switches for cheap? I still believe MX is the best for those who do not strictly game, so I am not too keen on the Razer Greens or Oranges.


----------



## pez

Check out Woot.com from time to time. I'd recommend subscribing as they will alert you when they have 'Woot Offs'. Usually at the same time they have Razer refurb products that go on sale and I know I've seen the Tournament and Stealth editions pop up there. Woot.com is an Amazon affiliated company I believe.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Check out Woot.com from time to time. I'd recommend subscribing as they will alert you when they have 'Woot Offs'. Usually at the same time they have Razer refurb products that go on sale and I know I've seen the Tournament and Stealth editions pop up there. Woot.com is an Amazon affiliated company I believe.


Thanks. Will check it out.


----------



## Twiffle

Is it possible to change Deathadder Chroma shell to the one they used in 3G - 3.5G? I kind of liked the plastic sides more than these gum grips on sides.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Is it possible to change Deathadder Chroma shell to the one they used in 3G - 3.5G? I kind of liked the plastic sides more than these gum grips on sides.


You can just take the grips off I think.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Is it possible to change Deathadder Chroma shell to the one they used in 3G - 3.5G? I kind of liked the plastic sides more than these gum grips on sides.


no, they are not compatible in the slightest anymore.


----------



## Twiffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> no, they are not compatible in the slightest anymore.


Well that sucks.







Perhaps I should try to look for 3.5g on amazon then or something. Although I've heard there's a lot of fakes there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> You can just take the grips off I think.


Just wonder what kind of feeling it would give if I took them off. And are those grips attached there just with some sort of little tap's or with some adhesive.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Well that sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should try to look for 3.5g on amazon then or something. Although I've heard there's a lot of fakes there.
> Just wonder what kind of feeling it would give if I took them off. And are those grips attached there just with some sort of little tap's or with some adhesive.


I'm pretty sure it is adhesive, but you could easily use some Goof-Off or rubbing alcohol. Goof-off works miracles. Got the tree sap off my windshield.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twiffle*
> 
> Well that sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should try to look for 3.5g on amazon then or something. Although I've heard there's a lot of fakes there.
> Just wonder what kind of feeling it would give if I took them off. And are those grips attached there just with some sort of little tap's or with some adhesive.


this one should be legit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3-5G-3500-DPI-Gaming-Mouse-100-NEW-/121527314772?hash=item1c4b97a954


----------



## Twiffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it is adhesive, but you could easily use some Goof-Off or rubbing alcohol. Goof-off works miracles. Got the tree sap off my windshield.


Yeah I got some rubbing alcohol, but I think I'll just return my Chroma and get 3.5G instead. Shouldn't be too big of a downgrade.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> this one should be legit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3-5G-3500-DPI-Gaming-Mouse-100-NEW-/121527314772?hash=item1c4b97a954


Ahh alright. Thank you a lot!


----------



## pez

Yeah my brand new Chroma already had an issue with the sides coming loose. It's not necessarily super-glued down lol.


----------



## phamtom

anyone know how thick the rubber sides are? I might remove them since they provide no grip but I dont want to make the gripping area too thin


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phamtom*
> 
> anyone know how thick the rubber sides are? I might remove them since they provide no grip but I dont want to make the gripping area too thin


They aren't extremely thick or anything, I removed them on my old DA '13 for the same reason but I'd advise against it. It literally leaves two uncomfortable "cavities" with somewhat sharp edges on the sides of the mouse, and doesn't help grip at all imo. You're better off putting something on top (gun tape, or whatever) unless you have something to "fill" the spots where the grips were.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah my brand new Chroma already had an issue with the sides coming loose. It's not necessarily super-glued down lol.


I got a DA Chroma recently, and I'm on #4 from BestBuy since mid December. The three that I returned; all had side grips falling off and random stuff on the bottom. Either plastic bits where it shouldn't be that I couldn't remove, or this part (image below) hanging too low where the pieces meet in the middle, all causing it to scrape my mousepad badly enough to make a newish QcK Heavy look years old


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> I got a DA Chroma recently, and I'm on #4 from BestBuy since mid December. The three that I returned; all had side grips falling off and random stuff on the bottom. Either plastic bits where it shouldn't be that I couldn't remove, or this part (image below) hanging too low where the pieces meet in the middle, all causing it to scrape my mousepad badly enough to make a newish QcK Heavy look years old


Yikes!

Your best buy must have received a large shipment from a bad batch or something.

Have you tried any other sources, or just your local BB?


----------



## phamtom

thanks, may try some of the the stuff you mentioned. +rep


----------



## falcon26

Is anyone using the DA at 1000 polling rate and if so any issues? I just set mine to 1000 polling rate and 1000 DPI. What do most people have their DPI set too?


----------



## agsz

Has anyone else had a DeathAdder _Chroma_ that randomly just stopped working, and you had to press the cord into the mouse/twist it to get it to work? (Image below for reference) On my DeathAdder 2013, the tube like piece the cord goes through is very firm/stiff, while on the DeathAdder Chroma, it seems to be very loose. This is the second DeathAdder Chroma I've had in the past ~2 weeks that broke from the same issue, and I've barely been playing CS:GO, let alone on the computer. Not sure if this is a common issue, or just my horrible luck .


----------



## Gamefreak565

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Has anyone else had a DeathAdder _Chroma_ that randomly just stopped working, and you had to press the cord into the mouse/twist it to get it to work? (Image below for reference) On my DeathAdder 2013, the tube like piece the cord goes through is very firm/stiff, while on the DeathAdder Chroma, it seems to be very loose. This is the second DeathAdder Chroma I've had in the past ~2 weeks that broke from the same issue, and I've barely been playing CS:GO, let alone on the computer. Not sure if this is a common issue, or just my horrible luck .


This isn't going to add anything, but I can relate to you about bad luck.

I picked up an FK1 the other day and ended up having the scroll wheel issue where it won't register half of the scrolls, then I picked up a ZA12 today as an exchange and the mouse wheel rattles like you'd expect on a 12$ Belkin mouse.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gamefreak565*
> 
> This isn't going to add anything, but I can relate to you about bad luck.
> 
> I picked up an FK1 the other day and ended up having the scroll wheel issue where it won't register half of the scrolls, then I picked up a ZA12 today as an exchange and the mouse wheel rattles like you'd expect on a 12$ Belkin mouse.


Did you get your Zowie mice from Rexflo? My friend bought an EC1-A from there that had the rattle. Their new _Zowie * BenQ_ revised mice apparently have a much better scroll wheel and lighter switches. I'm curious if the new scroll wheel they use, doesn't have that issue where it randomly scrolls up/down, or in your case won't register some scrolls at all.


----------



## Gamefreak565

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Did you get your Zowie mice from Rexflo? My friend bought an EC1-A from there that had the rattle. Their new _Zowie * BenQ_ revised mice apparently have a much better scroll wheel and lighter switches. I'm curious if the new scroll wheel they use, doesn't have that issue where it randomly scrolls up/down, or in your case won't register some scrolls at all.


No, I live in Canada and bought them via Canada Computers..

When I unboxed the ZA12 I honestly couldn't believe how much the scroll wheel rattles, it genuinely feels like a cheap beater mouse in terms of that. I might eventually look at the BenQ version, but to be honestly I'm fairly fed up with Zowie as a whole right now.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Is anyone using the DA at 1000 polling rate and if so any issues? I just set mine to 1000 polling rate and 1000 DPI. What do most people have their DPI set too?


1000 worked fine with great stability on all of the Deathadders I've ever used, but I have seen reports from others of instability at 1000hz causing drops as low as 700.

As far as I can tell it likely comes down to differences in your motherboard's USB implementation, BIOS settings, CPU load, and software/drivers that induce a large DPC latency hit.

Assuming your system has well implemented USB controllers, and your DPC latency isn't already in ridiculously, game-breakingly, high levels, you should be alright. Give it a test yourself, you can always revert to 500hz.

That said, I've never really been able to feel much if any difference between 500 and 1000. I'd be pretty skeptical of anyone who claims they can considering the number of things that have several orders of magnitude more impact on your end-to-end latency than your mouse polling rate ever could, and the fact that no currently existing game server, no monitor, etc will even register differences between 500 and 1000. In fact, anything over 250hz (stable) is overkill for practical use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Has anyone else had a DeathAdder _Chroma_ that randomly just stopped working, and you had to press the cord into the mouse/twist it to get it to work? (Image below for reference) On my DeathAdder 2013, the tube like piece the cord goes through is very firm/stiff, while on the DeathAdder Chroma, it seems to be very loose. This is the second DeathAdder Chroma I've had in the past ~2 weeks that broke from the same issue, and I've barely been playing CS:GO, let alone on the computer. Not sure if this is a common issue, or just my horrible luck .


Can't say I've seen many people complain about that particular issue... or the other ones you've been having either. For reference, (albeit anecdotal) the moulding around the cable where you've shown fits tightly with the shell of the mouse on my personal Chroma.

For the most part, people either just don't subjectively like the DA, have software issues with Synapse, get knots in their cables (I still don't understand this one, but apparently some people just literally cannot use braided cables on anything or they will magically explode) or gunk up the wheel encoders and think that the mouse is broken when all they need to do is clean it.

There was also a point when a lot of people were getting knockoff DAs and didn't realize it - in fact even Newegg and BestBuy were carrying the fakes for a while before realizing what happened months later and pulling them off the shelves. I know fakes are still common on ebay, alibaba, etc, but I'm pretty sure most major retailers have solved that issue years ago... 'course, they didn't know about it the first time, so who's to say it hasn't happened again without them knowing?

There are of course all sorts of other issues that can come up, ranging from defective hardware to misuse, but none of those are really all that common and are rather just the isolated cases of sheer randomness you will find with any piece of hardware.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> 1000 worked fine with great stability on all of the Deathadders I've ever used, but I have seen reports from others of instability at 1000hz causing drops as low as 700.
> 
> As far as I can tell it likely comes down to differences in your motherboard's USB implementation, BIOS settings, CPU load, and software/drivers that induce a large DPC latency hit.
> 
> Assuming your system has well implemented USB controllers, and your DPC latency isn't already in ridiculously, game-breakingly, high levels, you should be alright. Give it a test yourself, you can always revert to 500hz.
> 
> That said, I've never really been able to feel much if any difference between 500 and 1000. I'd be pretty skeptical of anyone who claims they can considering the number of things that have several orders of magnitude more impact on your end-to-end latency than your mouse polling rate ever could, and the fact that no currently existing game server, no monitor, etc will even register differences between 500 and 1000. In fact, anything over 250hz (stable) is overkill for practical use.
> Can't say I've seen many people complain about that particular issue... or the other ones you've been having either. For reference, (albeit anecdotal) the moulding around the cable where you've shown fits tightly with the shell of the mouse on my personal Chroma.
> 
> For the most part, people either just don't subjectively like the DA, have software issues with Synapse, get knots in their cables (I still don't understand this one, but apparently some people just literally cannot use braided cables on anything or they will magically explode) or gunk up the wheel encoders and think that the mouse is broken when all they need to do is clean it.
> 
> There was also a point when a lot of people were getting knockoff DAs and didn't realize it - in fact even Newegg and BestBuy were carrying the fakes for a while before realizing what happened months later and pulling them off the shelves. I know fakes are still common on ebay, alibaba, etc, but I'm pretty sure most major retailers have solved that issue years ago... 'course, they didn't know about it the first time, so who's to say it hasn't happened again without them knowing?
> 
> There are of course all sorts of other issues that can come up, ranging from defective hardware to misuse, but none of those are really all that common and are rather just the isolated cases of sheer randomness you will find with any piece of hardware.


How would I go about telling if it's fake? My first two DeathAdder Chroma's had random plastic bits that I couldn't remove and/or pieces hung lower than the mouse skates, causing it to drag on my mousepad really bad. Easily my favorite mouse, but it's odd that my DeathAdder 2013 has a much more stiffer mousecord, while the Chroma is really loose and I have to twist it a bit and push it in to get it to work for a few minutes.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> How would I go about telling if it's fake? My first two DeathAdder Chroma's had random plastic bits that I couldn't remove and/or pieces hung lower than the mouse skates, causing it to drag on my mousepad really bad. Easily my favorite mouse, but it's odd that my DeathAdder 2013 has a much more stiffer mousecord, while the Chroma is really loose and I have to twist it a bit and push it in to get it to work for a few minutes.


Honestly the last time fakes were really on my radar was with the original 3G and 3.5G versions.

The fakes very frequently had _very slightly_ different labels and/or boxes that could be spotted in a direct side by side comparison but were very difficult to distinguish otherwise.

They often has issues similar to yours of poorly moulded plastic, especially around the edges were multiple pieces meet.

Many of them has poor results in benchmarks compared to the legitimate models, but still more or less worked, and even sometimes registered with the old Synapse 1.0 software (but some of the settings would cause issues due to the lack of true compatibility).

I couldn't tell you what exactly to look for in a faked Chroma, but looking to the past, those common indicators for the fake 3/3.5G DAs might be a place to start.

EDIT: Did a quick search to find this old thread - http://www.overclock.net/t/1324292/warning-fake-deathadders-around


----------



## Gamefreak565

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> How would I go about telling if it's fake? My first two DeathAdder Chroma's had random plastic bits that I couldn't remove and/or pieces hung lower than the mouse skates, causing it to drag on my mousepad really bad. Easily my favorite mouse, but it's odd that my DeathAdder 2013 has a much more stiffer mousecord, while the Chroma is really loose and I have to twist it a bit and push it in to get it to work for a few minutes.


Is there anywhere in your area you can grab one that isn't from your local Bestbuy? To me it sounds like they just have a bad batch of them.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> I got a DA Chroma recently, and I'm on #4 from BestBuy since mid December. The three that I returned; all had side grips falling off and random stuff on the bottom. Either plastic bits where it shouldn't be that I couldn't remove, or this part (image below) hanging too low where the pieces meet in the middle, all causing it to scrape my mousepad badly enough to make a newish QcK Heavy look years old


Yeah, I've noticed some of the edges are a bit more sharp, but nothing crazy outside of the side grip. If your BB is constantly producing you bad models, I'd go through RMA to get a replacement. Steelseries may even be helpful to you about the mousepad, though I've never dealt with their CS. Hopefully they wouldn't be cruel enough to just brush you off because it was the cause of another product







.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, I've noticed some of the edges are a bit more sharp, but nothing crazy outside of the side grip. If your BB is constantly producing you bad models, I'd go through RMA to get a replacement. Steelseries may even be helpful to you about the mousepad, though I've never dealt with their CS. *Hopefully they wouldn't be cruel enough to just brush you off because it was the cause of another product*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Unfortunately, that is basically the policy of EVERY modern company, although every once in a while you will get lucky with a company that values PR over short term profits (lol...as if those existed).


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Unfortunately, that is basically the policy of EVERY modern company, although every once in a while you will get lucky with a company that values PR over short term profits (lol...as if those existed).


Lol exactly. That was me hoping for the best for him







. However, I think Steelseries may be cool enough to bite the bullet on replacing a mouse pad. I mean the worst they can do is say no and you have to replace the mouse pad anyways, right?







.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Lol exactly. That was me hoping for the best for him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . However, I think Steelseries may be cool enough to bite the bullet on replacing a mouse pad. *I mean the worst they can do is say no and you have to replace the mouse pad anyways, right?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Right indeed. I mean, mousepads are essentially considered disposable anyway. It is just a matter of time before you wear it out and it stops gliding well.


----------



## pez

Speaking of gliding; I've found that the Hyperglides are definitely worth the extra couple of bucks over the Tiger gaming feet. They are definitely smoother overall. I bought a set for my SS Rival as well and am genuinely impressed. It's a bit weird because the LOD for the Rival is pretty low and having to adjust to literally none at this point is a bit strange







.


----------



## falcon26

Yeah after using the DA at 1000 polling rate I notice no difference at all between 1000 and 500.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Yeah after using the DA at 1000 polling rate I notice no difference at all between 1000 and 500.


i think tests showed jitter at 1000hz. no idea where those results were posted, though.


----------



## bond10

DA2013 on 1000hz feels MUCH MUCH better than 500hz. After playing with 1000 hz for a few months, I can for sure say 500hz feels like it has this heavy delay/smoothing.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond10*
> 
> DA2013 on 1000hz feels MUCH MUCH better than 500hz. After playing with 1000 hz for a few months, I can for sure say 500hz feels like it has this heavy delay/smoothing.


I've always used 1000Hz; but using 500Hz on desktop you see/feel the difference quite a bit, perhaps more @ 400 DPI. But in CS:GO, I didn't really notice a different to be completely honest, granted I didn't test it out for that long though.


----------



## hasukka

1000hz/500hz difference on most mice (like the DA) is personal preference.


----------



## Scrimstar

What are the differences between DA13/Chroma and Mamba TE?

I know the coating is different on 13/chroma. There is more rubber on the TE and it has different shaped buttons. The sensor should be better on the DA? Is there a difference in shape/ weight/ and button hardness?

Price does not matter, I want to buy one of these 3. I want easy lifting and smooth plastic. i play fps


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> What are the differences between DA13/Chroma and Mamba TE?
> 
> I know the coating is different on 13/chroma. There is more rubber on the TE and it has different shaped buttons. The sensor should be better on the DA? Is there a difference in shape/ weight/ and button hardness?
> 
> Price does not matter, I want to buy one of these 3. I want easy lifting and smooth plastic. i play fps


Mamba is expensive, wireless, and extremely heavy. Get the Deathadder instead.

As for which DA, that is a personal choice. 2013 and "Classic" are identical with different color LEDs (green and blue respectively). Chroma is a 2013 with a revised firmware and user-selectable light color.

Technically the Chroma is the "best", but you would need to be gaming at a stupidly high DPI (6401-10000) for that to matter, so it really just boils down to which lighting scheme you want and how much you are willing to pay for it.

EDIT: just realized you were talking about the newer Mamba TE and not the "normal" Mamba. The shape and sensor are different, it weighs more than the DA (but not quite as much as the wireless mamba), and has different lighting. Other than that I can't really comment on it as I do not own one and it is fairly unpopular and thus there is very little information available about it other than official specs, marketing material, and paid off reviews.


----------



## Scrimstar

anyone have weight real weight specs? DA is supposed to be 105g w/o cable vss 133 Mamba TE. Which DA has the best firmware? The chroma is more rough and the rubber and m4/m5 is different from Mamba. Was wondering if other ppl on this thread had in hand xp with these mice to answer my questions.

I am using the ec2-a and i dont like the plastic material.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> What are the differences between DA13/Chroma and Mamba TE?
> 
> I know the coating is different on 13/chroma. There is more rubber on the TE and it has different shaped buttons. The sensor should be better on the DA? Is there a difference in shape/ weight/ and button hardness?
> 
> Price does not matter, I want to buy one of these 3. I want easy lifting and smooth plastic. i play fps


Stay away from the Mamba if you want consistent performance. To get the 16000 DPI label, Razer had to compromise with an inconsistent sensor. The Deathadder 2013 and Chroma both have "perfect" sensors.


----------



## Scrimstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> Stay away from the Mamba if you want consistent performance. To get the 16000 DPI label, Razer had to compromise with an inconsistent sensor. The Deathadder 2013 and Chroma both have "perfect" sensors.


are they the same firmware? I might get the world of tanks or CoD Bo3 version for the shell

anyone know the dif in shell btween each DA version? Chroma is rough correct


----------



## pez

I would do mouse reviews, but I'm not really into specs when it comes to mouses/mice. I play at 800 DPI and 1.4 sensitivity in CS:GO, so I just need a mouse that simply doesn't dysfunction with high speed swiping. DA: BE, DA 2013, DA Chroma are easy to recommend for those not too blind to think Razer is crap because they had one bad one. I've had 4 different DeathAdders that have all seen heavy use (some more than others), and I've yet to have an issue outside of a dirty scrollwheel on a 5+ year old mouse. I'm currently switching between the SS Rival and DA Chroma. Both perform excellently to the point that I would recommend either, and only bias once I know a person's grip, hand-size and their idea of 'heavy' or 'light'.


----------



## Bucake

because i know there are some 3G DA nutters:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3G-V3-1800-DPI-Infrared-Gaming-Mouse-/252238208738?hash=item3aba919ee2:g:yoAAAOSwGotWiwhh

a used 1800dpi DA 3G V3 on ebay
seems like the coating is pretty much gone, though
pictures indicate it comes in original box. nice bonus


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> because i know there are some 3G DA nutters:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3G-V3-1800-DPI-Infrared-Gaming-Mouse-/252238208738?hash=item3aba919ee2:g:yoAAAOSwGotWiwhh
> 
> a used 1800dpi DA 3G V3 on ebay
> seems like the coating is pretty much gone, though
> pictures indicate it comes in original box. nice bonus


$30. In that condition?


----------



## agsz

Not sure if this makes any sense but; does using a lower DPI (e.g 400 DPI), provide a smaller margin for error, than if you used say 1600-1800 DPI? I was thinking about how it makes sense theoretically, but couldn't find any info when Googling it.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Not sure if this makes any sense but; does using a lower DPI (e.g 400 DPI), provide a smaller margin for error, than if you used say 1600-1800 DPI? I was thinking about how it makes sense theoretically, but couldn't find any info when Googling it.


In terms of FPS games, its the same as using a lower sensitivity. One inch of error moves the mouse a lot more on 1800 DPI compared to 400 DPI. In CS:GO, 1 inch of error moves the cross hair way more on 5 sensitivity compared to 1 sensitivity. Does it lower the margin of error? Not sure, but on a bad day, your mouse movement mistakes will impact the game less if you use lower DPI or sensitivity. I would just leave the DPI at something you find comfortable for basic Windows browsing and use the in game sensitivity when worrying about margins of error. A higher DPI is not more precise than a lower DPI.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> In terms of FPS games, its the same as using a lower sensitivity. One inch of error moves the mouse a lot more on 1800 DPI compared to 400 DPI. In CS:GO, 1 inch of error moves the cross hair way more on 5 sensitivity compared to 1 sensitivity. Does it lower the margin of error? Not sure, but on a bad day, your mouse movement mistakes will impact the game less if you use lower DPI or sensitivity. I would just leave the DPI at something you find comfortable for basic Windows browsing and use the in game sensitivity when worrying about margins of error. A higher DPI is not more precise than a lower DPI.


Eh, I only changed DPI from 400 DPI to 800 DPI to make Desktop browsing easier, I use 1.9 sens in-game @ 400 DPI / 1000Hz + rawinput, so it's not really a drastic change in DPI I guess.


----------



## daunow

Been getting this doubleclick bug, any of you gotten it? before it happened sometimes, but now it's happening so many times that I am thinking of getting a new mouse.

Basically clicking once, but apparently the mouse registers it as two clicks for some reason, also only happens with the left side.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Out of warranty?

Are the supplies needed to solder new switches on the mouse cheaper than a new mouse?


----------



## qsxcv

do this
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/29955/how-do-i-fix-an-omron-d2fc-f-7n-microswitch-from-unwanted-clicks
but don't take off the spring, just use a small screwdriver or needle and scratch the contact points a bit


----------



## daunow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Out of warranty?
> 
> Are the supplies needed to solder new switches on the mouse cheaper than a new mouse?


More than likely, probably just gonna get something when a mouse goes on sale or something, can't really afford a mouse at full right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qsxcv*
> 
> do this
> http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/29955/how-do-i-fix-an-omron-d2fc-f-7n-microswitch-from-unwanted-clicks
> but don't take off the spring, just use a small screwdriver or needle and scratch the contact points a bit


I would try this but at the same time, I don't wanna mess it up anymore than this, thanks tough


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daunow*
> 
> Been getting this doubleclick bug, any of you gotten it? before it happened sometimes, but now it's happening so many times that I am thinking of getting a new mouse.
> 
> Basically clicking once, but apparently the mouse registers it as two clicks for some reason, also only happens with the left side.


Is it on the DA 2013/Chroma? There was a firmware update for it.


----------



## Zero4549

Double/triple/multi click issues are universal to all traditional mechanical switches. It doesn't matter if you are talking about a Razer Deathadder, a Steelseries Sensei, or even your Cherry MX Keyboard. They happen due to imperfections in manufacturing tolerances, bad debounce times, dirty switches, or fatigued metal within the switches.

The first is always a chance with any switch. The second is usually in the hands of the device manufacturer. Given enough use and time, the last two are inevitable and universal.

Firmware updates can help refine the debounce time. If you have a switch that is only slightly off, you might just get lucky there.

Otherwise, as I've said a thousand times and will say a thousand more, open up your mouse and clean the microswitches with electrical contact cleaner, and bend the springs back into shape if needed, or if they are particularly far gone you can remove the whole switch and solder on a new one. These are fairly simple and dirt cheap fixes / maintenance tasks that I feel everyone should become accustomed to unless they just want to buy new devices constantly.

Of course, as always, RMA before doing any repairs yourself, as long as it is still in warranty.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Double/triple/multi click issues are universal to all traditional mechanical switches. It doesn't matter if you are talking about a Razer Deathadder, a Steelseries Sensei, or even your Cherry MX Keyboard. They happen due to imperfections in manufacturing tolerances, bad debounce times, dirty switches, or fatigued metal within the switches.
> 
> The first is always a chance with any switch. The second is usually in the hands of the device manufacturer. Given enough use and time, the last two are inevitable and universal.
> 
> Firmware updates can help refine the debounce time. If you have a switch that is only slightly off, you might just get lucky there.
> 
> Otherwise, as I've said a thousand times and will say a thousand more, open up your mouse and clean the microswitches with electrical contact cleaner, and bend the springs back into shape if needed, or if they are particularly far gone you can remove the whole switch and solder on a new one. These are fairly simple and dirt cheap fixes / maintenance tasks that I feel everyone should become accustomed to unless they just want to buy new devices constantly.
> 
> Of course, as always, RMA before doing any repairs yourself, as long as it is still in warranty.


Do you think if Zowie had Firmware updates, they'd be able to avoid re-calling all of their new mice?


----------



## daunow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Is it on the DA 2013/Chroma? There was a firmware update for it.


Chroma (Latest one)

and yeah I am on the latest firmware


----------



## raucous

Does anyone prefer not to use Synapse?

I keep hearing it is bad and should be uninstalled once the mouse DPI is set. What negative impact does it have?


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raucous*
> 
> Does anyone prefer not to use Synapse?
> 
> I keep hearing it is bad and should be uninstalled once the mouse DPI is set. What negative impact does it have?


Most people will say to uninstall it, but I don't find any problems with it either way.


----------



## daunow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raucous*
> 
> Does anyone prefer not to use Synapse?
> 
> I keep hearing it is bad and should be uninstalled once the mouse DPI is set. What negative impact does it have?


I didn't uninstalled it, tough I do suggest you remove it from starting up with windows.

ctrl+alt+esc > startup tab > disable razer synapse

I also remember razer came with gamesensor or whatever, you might as well disable that as well..


----------



## illitirit

Has anyone here with a deathadder cut the braided portion of the cable off?

Would it be as easy as taking a razor and slicing it open carefully?

I want to replace the stock cable on my G303 with my deathadder one since I dont use it anymore since the stock g303 cable is terribad.


----------



## bruzanHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illitirit*
> 
> Has anyone here with a deathadder cut the braided portion of the cable off?
> 
> Would it be as easy as taking a razor and slicing it open carefully?
> 
> I want to replace the stock cable on my G303 with my deathadder one since I dont use it anymore since the stock g303 cable is terribad.


Yeah be careful to not go through the rubber.


----------



## thuNDa

i used these wire cutters(which are awesome BTW







) to safely get the braid off.


----------



## celltech

would like to use a deathadder chroma but i cant stand/grip the rubber sidegrips.

looking for a plane rubber-pad or smth that comes close to the sidegrip of a sensei to replace the original grips with.

any ideas?


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celltech*
> 
> would like to use a deathadder chroma but i cant stand/grip the rubber sidegrips.
> 
> looking for a plane rubber-pad or smth that comes close to the sidegrip of a sensei to replace the original grips with.
> 
> any ideas?


Did you ask the misc?


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

After destroying my first (and what i thought last) deathadder, a friend gave me his (who dislikes it even more than me). Since I don't plan to be using it that much, I thought it would be nice to try some firmware experiments ot see if it gets any better.

Currently it has the latest and gratest 2.45 firmware. Any suggestion for changing it to a different (lower) version? So far I've tried 2.33 (read on esreality that it's better, and fixes the 1000 issue), but it certainly has some other tracking issues.


----------



## wareya

2.33 also has way lower clicking latency, you might be feeling the difference.

I had tracking issues on *all* firmware versions, forced me onto a different mouse.

As for now, make sure you're using 1800dpi


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

I really do not understand why did/do people recommend this as a great gaming mouse? Even my stupid/old A4tech x760 tracks better (with correction mind you).

Maybe marketing at it's best


----------



## pez

I've yet to have an issue with tracking on a DeathAdder. Not to be that guy, but there's way too many people that don't have issues for it to be an issue that is specific to the mouse. There's plenty of variables all the way from your motherboard's USB ports to the mouse pad you're using.


----------



## granitov

Depends on what are those tracking issues exactly.


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I've yet to have an issue with tracking on a DeathAdder. Not to be that guy, but there's way too many people that don't have issues for it to be an issue that is specific to the mouse. There's plenty of variables all the way from your motherboard's USB ports to the mouse pad you're using.


Well, from what i have read this is not true. Many people have issues with the deathadder 3.5g.

The trouble is that there is so many fanboys who just need it it to glow in the dark. Sheep i say...


----------



## pez

Outside of not having Synapse, I don't see the reason to not be using the the 2013 or Chroma. I've had the 3.5, BE, 2013 and Chroma, and I've yet to have an issue with tracking. I guess I could see those that don't care for the side grips, but then you have the BE.

I'm not saying your issues are trivial or non-existent, however. We just need more details to assist you as a community forum. More than, 'My DA 3.5 has tracking issues...' that is then followed with calling people who like the product 'sheep.' This is an informative/appreciation/discussion thread, and coming in with an attitude as such is somewhat counterproductive.


----------



## wareya

I got tracking issues on the 3.5 on random part of illustrations. They would do something weird to the sensor and make it extremely jittery.


----------



## obi.van.kenobi

I've noticed that on 900dpi and on 450dpi it doesn't always track the same to the left and to the right. Meaning the correlation between distance traveled physically by the mouse and the crosshair isn't always the same. And I'm not talking about speed above it's control rate (for which enotus mouse test reports at about 3.8m/s). This I have noticed in cs go @ 1 sens, raw mode on.

At 3500 dpi it stutters like hell. Although I don't mind it since i do not use it ever ever.


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obi.van.kenobi*
> 
> I've noticed that on 900dpi and on 450dpi it doesn't always track the same to the left and to the right. Meaning the correlation between distance traveled physically by the mouse and the crosshair isn't always the same. And I'm not talking about speed above it's control rate (for which enotus mouse test reports at about 3.8m/s). This I have noticed in cs go @ 1 sens, raw mode on.
> 
> At 3500 dpi it stutters like hell. Although I don't mind it since i do not use it ever ever.


Are you using synapse?


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obi.van.kenobi*
> 
> I've noticed that on 900dpi and on 450dpi it doesn't always track the same to the left and to the right. Meaning the correlation between distance traveled physically by the mouse and the crosshair isn't always the same. And I'm not talking about speed above it's control rate (for which enotus mouse test reports at about 3.8m/s). This I have noticed in cs go @ 1 sens, raw mode on.
> 
> At 3500 dpi it stutters like hell. Although I don't mind it since i do not use it ever ever.


that might have to do with the different polling rates you get for different directions you move with FW 2.45(move right and it does 1000hz, move left and it only does 850hz or something)


----------



## journey

For how much do 3Gs go for these days? I have five of them which I was going to turn into Kinzuadders but gave up on that and they've been sitting in my drawer for the past two years or so. They're all in perfect working condition and one of them is the mac-edition with the white led.


----------



## kr0w

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *journey*
> 
> For how much do 3Gs go for these days? I have five of them which I was going to turn into Kinzuadders but gave up on that and they've been sitting in my drawer for the past two years or so. They're all in perfect working condition and one of them is the mac-edition with the white led.


Are they V2 or V3? I sold a used V3 on eBay for $25 including shipping. V2's are sought after because they use the red visible light wavelength to track movement so LOD is a bit lower. Probably can get a little bit above retail price for the V2


----------



## granitov

Where to buy cheap white/silver DAs (3 buttons)? Or their PCBs. Or a decent version of PCBang PCB (with max speed above 1 m/s).


----------



## bruzanHD

Has anyone ever found any performance differences between the 2013 and chroma?


----------



## kr0w

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Has anyone ever found any performance differences between the 2013 and chroma?


MKohler might have one on YouTube; 4G vs Chroma


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Has anyone ever found any performance differences between the 2013 and chroma?


Don't own a 2013, but my Chroma works great. I think they're the same price on Amazon too.


----------



## Bucake

just got a used 3G v2. _why_? because it was just 5 euros. 

initial impressions:
- awesome clicks. just wow. compared to my 3.5g, these buttons feel incredible.
M2, M4 and M5 have really good tactility. they're very snappy with a nice force curve, and the sound is actually great as well.
M1 unfortunately is a lot less defined, and it also suffers from the famous double-click. hopefully this is fixable!
- scroll wheel is meh. i'm not sure if it's because of wear or not - but it's very heavy, and the steps are quite undefined. i'm hoping it's not too worn out to fix.
also, the scroll wheel sometimes doesn't register a scroll, or it registers up when you scrolled downwards and vice versa.
M3 is alright. a tad too heavy for my taste, but in my opinion it's a bunch nicer than M3 from the 3.5g in both sound and feel.
- the coating feels great, a lot nicer than that of the 3.5g. unfortunately it's in sad shape, clearly the mouse has been used a lot 
- mouse feet are trash. absolute trash.
- sensor feels very sharp. i haven't done a lot of comparing/testing yet, but it certainly doesn't feel like a downgrade from the 3.5g.
- nice cable. a tiny bit stiff, but there's plenty of flex for me. non-braided! big, big upgrade from the 3.5g cable.

so, hopefully i can fix the scroll wheel and, more importantly, M1.
and if i succeed in fixing M1 then i'll just slap on a new set of feet and this will be a very good 5 euros spent 

(and hopefully i can get this smell out - like it's been deep-fried for 20 years straight)


----------



## kr0w

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> just got a used 3G v2. _why_? because it was just 5 euros.
> 
> initial impressions:
> - awesome clicks. just wow. compared to my 3.5g, these buttons feel incredible.
> M2, M4 and M5 have really good tactility. they're very snappy with a nice force curve, and the sound is actually great as well.
> M1 unfortunately is a lot less defined, and it also suffers from the famous double-click. hopefully this is fixable!
> - scroll wheel is meh. i'm not sure if it's because of wear or not - but it's very heavy, and the steps are quite undefined. i'm hoping it's not too worn out to fix.
> also, the scroll wheel sometimes doesn't register a scroll, or it registers up when you scrolled downwards and vice versa.
> M3 is alright. a tad too heavy for my taste, but in my opinion it's a bunch nicer than M3 from the 3.5g in both sound and feel.
> - the coating feels great, a lot nicer than that of the 3.5g. unfortunately it's in sad shape, clearly the mouse has been used a lot
> - mouse feet are trash. absolute trash.
> - sensor feels very sharp. i haven't done a lot of comparing/testing yet, but it certainly doesn't feel like a downgrade from the 3.5g.
> - nice cable. a tiny bit stiff, but there's plenty of flex for me. non-braided! big, big upgrade from the 3.5g cable.
> 
> so, hopefully i can fix the scroll wheel and, more importantly, M1.
> and if i succeed in fixing M1 then i'll just slap on a new set of feet and this will be a very good 5 euros spent
> 
> (and hopefully i can get this smell out - like it's been deep-fried for 20 years straight)


Are the switches Omron? I was told some of the 3G's (not sure if v2 or v3) had different variations


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Rev G Deathadder V2's have Sweeta DM1 switches. Which I didn't mind at all. I'm quite used to those switches.

Their company motto is a good example of engrish too. "Sense The Rule Of Technology"


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Sweeta DM1 switches


I somehow always thought they are labelled under Multicomp.


----------



## Shwiqo6434

..


----------



## axmadka

Heyo guys, anyone knows if razer plans to upgrade the DeathAdder this year? As I've had two chromas and both had defects and felt very cheap :/ While the previous versions of DA I had (original, black edition) were solid and had no issues at all. - should I look for them instead ?


----------



## daunow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axmadka*
> 
> Heyo guys, anyone knows if razer plans to upgrade the DeathAdder this year? As I've had two chromas and both had defects and felt very cheap :/ While the previous versions of DA I had (original, black edition) were solid and had no issues at all. - should I look for them instead ?


I'll be honest, surprised people get so many defects one, when my refurb one was perfect, except for double clicks after a year that started to get annoying.

but I guess i got kinda lucky.. but 1 year for a mouse to break down is actually really bad.. I've had a cheaper wireless mouse for 5 years before and nothing on it broke hell it still works today...


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kr0w*
> 
> Are the switches Omron? I was told some of the 3G's (not sure if v2 or v3) had different variations


M1 and M2 are omrons. M4 and M5 have 'DM1' on them so i presume those are the Sweeta switches mentioned.
no clue what M3 is using. the plastic is very worn so i suppose its quality is a bunch less. the plastic is red in stead of the usual white. the switch has a fancy-looking D on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *przem33k*
> 
> I have plenty of 3G V2, some of them have Omron D2FC-G-7S and as uaokkkkkkkk mentioned - Sweeta DM1. Make sure to flash the firmware to 1.27DC or 1.28NDC after you fix the buttons, these have the lowest debounce time (~3ms).


cheers 
i suppose 1.31 and later just increase the debounce time in the firmware, to 'fix' the double-click issue.









well i don't think i am able to clean this scroll wheel without de-soldering it. i'm simply unable to reach in-between the tiny gaps. unfortunately i don't have soldering equipment. rip scroll wheel.

what's worse is i destroyed the 2 screw-holes that hold the PCB in place..
the screws wouldn't move, so i just increased force. then i noticed that no matter how often i'd rotate, they wouldn't actually go up..
turns out they are inverted screws that you must rotate clockwise to get out.. it really made me mad, i damaged a good mouse right there.
god damnit


----------



## Shwiqo6434

..


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Well 1.28 is the lowest(2-3ms) after that is 1.31(7ms). Except for that, all the other fw's have +13ms~ added button delay.

1.31 was a preview of the amount of delay commonly used in modern Razer mice.

Oh except for the part where they might have bumped the release delay on the switches to 48ms~(at least on the Diamondback Chroma). Remember bst's mouse? That had it set at 50ms. \o/


----------



## Bucake

i just tested M1 and there doesn't seem to be a double-click issue anymore. 
however, i do not really understand why, since there wasn't even any dirt inside the omron switch itself, but only on top of it..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Well 1.28 is the lowest(2-3ms) after that is 1.31(7ms). Except for that, all the other fw's have +13ms~ added button delay.
> 
> 1.31 was a preview of the amount of delay commonly used in modern Razer mice.
> 
> Oh except for the part where they might have bumped the release delay on the switches to 48ms~(at least on the Diamondback Chroma). Remember bst's mouse? That had it set at 50ms. \o/


48, 50..? my head hurts..

is there a way to check the current firmware of a DA 3g v2? and is it dangerous to downgrade firmware?
i'm scared to brick the mouse, heh.. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *przem33k*
> 
> If you're from Europe, I can send you a new top/bottom shell If you cover the cost of shipping.


wow, you actually have spare parts for a DA 3g v2..?
if the parts are not broken and you are serious about your offer, then i'd gladly take them from you.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

I had flashed mine with every firmware available to it(on 3 units too) and never had it brick. Driver should show which firmware is being used by the mouse.

I think it was the DA 3.5G that had the issue with only being able to flash certain fw versions in a certain order. Was quite bizarre since not even the Copperhead had that issue(the beta firmware meant for the a6010 version of the Copperhead didn't brick mine, and I was able to flash it back to 6.16i).


----------



## Bucake

1.28 NDC

any ideas?


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> 1.28 NDC
> 
> any ideas?


Oh, it's been a while. You have the driver installed on your system before you run the firmware updater right?


----------



## defhed

Have you considered the Mamba? I just got one and had a DA before it and I really feel it's just like a better DA. It has very slight differences in the design and curves that make the mouse feel more comfortable than the DA.


----------



## daav1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defhed*
> 
> Have you considered the Mamba? I just got one and had a DA before it and I really feel it's just like a better DA. It has very slight differences in the design and curves that make the mouse feel more comfortable than the DA.


The sensor is pretty bad for fps games at least. Shape looks better imo but otherwise I would not use it even if I got it for free.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Oh, it's been a while. You have the driver installed on your system before you run the firmware updater right?


i actually did not have the drivers installed, heh.
so thanks a lot  that did the trick.
i found that 3.05 works for both the 3.5g and 3g, so having that installed and running allowed me to upgrade the firmware to 1.28. works like a charm!

i also opened up the mouse again because i still had the occasional double-click. this time i didn't go easy on the switch and just stretched it way out. it now has a nice click again  and no double-click so far!
scroll wheel also seems to be without issues after cleaning it a bit.

just need some new feet!

edit: boom! still had some hyperglides  LOD seems low enough so i didn't stack feet on this one.
yeah, nice mouse. glad i went for it!


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> i actually did not have the drivers installed, heh.
> so thanks a lot  that did the trick.
> i found that 3.05 works for both the 3.5g and 3g, so having that installed and running allowed me to upgrade the firmware to 1.28. works like a charm!
> 
> i also opened up the mouse again because i still had the occasional double-click. this time i didn't go easy on the switch and just stretched it way out. it now has a nice click again  and no double-click so far!
> scroll wheel also seems to be without issues after cleaning it a bit.
> 
> just need some new feet!
> 
> edit: boom! still had some hyperglides  LOD seems low enough so i didn't stack feet on this one.
> yeah, nice mouse. glad i went for it!


AFAIR, the 3.05 drivers causing a short cursor lag every ~5 seconds.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> AFAIR, the 3.05 drivers causing a short cursor lag every ~5 seconds.


Oh god I forgot about that









Quote:


> Oh and driver 3.05 made me waste time by making me tear apart and re test everything. Why? It caused random spikes. Was seeing +200ms in the program during this. Had to uninstall and reboot for it to go away. Driver 3.03 did not do this though, which is what I then used to update the firmware.


Yeah, it was pretty bad.


----------



## AlCZ

My DeathAdder 2013 passed away after 1.5 year of intensive service.... Sad, sad news.... I have now a brand new Chroma and from whell goes "strange noises" (from 2013) too. "2013" have double click issue :/. I was very disappointed of building quality of "2013" - first DeathAdder serviced me a long seven years...







(And Croma is most expensive as first DA and around 8Euro/8USD/200CZK pricing higher as "2013" and for 50% expensive as original DeathAdder ! I found a Razer now make two DeathAdders - DeathAdder Classic (with sensor from 2013 ?) and blue lighting and Croma...(with 10 000DPi)and RGB... (Really good joke is CoD Black Ops for 100Euro/110USD/2700CZK !!!







:/ (I really upset :/)


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlCZ*
> 
> My DeathAdder 2013 passed away after 1.5 year of intensive service.... Sad, sad news.... I have now a brand new Chroma and from whell goes "strange noises" (from 2013) too. "2013" have double click issue :/. I was very disappointed of building quality of "2013" - first DeathAdder serviced me a long seven years...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (And Croma is most expensive as first DA and around 8Euro/8USD/200CZK pricing higher as "2013" and for 50% expensive as original DeathAdder ! I found a Razer now make two DeathAdders - DeathAdder Classic (with sensor from 2013 ?) and blue lighting and Croma...(with 10 000DPi)and RGB... (Really good joke is CoD Black Ops for 100Euro/110


That Black Ops razer equipment is such a joke. Game is a joke when it comes to the Glorious PC Master Race. Unfortunately, it is a market, and Razer has decided to acknowledge it. SteelSeries knows where it's at. They have the Rival Fade for us CS:GO fans. I would never buy such a thing for the same reason I don't buy skins, but I bet that is a somewhat popular product for them.


----------



## Alya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> That Black Ops razer equipment is such a joke. Game is a joke when it comes to the Glorious PC Master Race. Unfortunately, it is a market, and Razer has decided to acknowledge it. SteelSeries knows where it's at. They have the Rival Fade for us CS:GO fans. I would never buy such a thing for the same reason I don't buy skins, but I bet that is a somewhat popular product for them.


SteelSeries has no clue where it's at, if they did then they wouldn't put out every mouse they have ever made in the state they're in. Awful optical sensors, laser sensor galore, mushy buttons, bad click latency, terrible firmware problems.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alya*
> 
> SteelSeries has no clue where it's at, if they did then they wouldn't put out every mouse they have ever made in the state they're in. Awful optical sensors, laser sensor galore, mushy buttons, bad click latency, terrible firmware problems.


Woah! Calm down. Just talking from a marketing standpoint using the Rival Fade as an example. All I'm saying is that while Razer goes after the uncommon PC CoD player with their Black Ops equipment, SteelSeries has gone after the more common Counter Strike market. I wasn't making any reference to the product quality itself. No need to get all aggravated about it. EDIT: If you thought I prefered the Rival, I don't. The Deathadder Chroma is my weapon of choice. It's much nicer to me.


----------



## ramraze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> Woah! Calm down. Just talking from a marketing standpoint using the Rival Fade as an example. All I'm saying is that while Razer goes after the uncommon PC CoD player with their Black Ops equipment, SteelSeries has gone after the more common Counter Strike market. I wasn't making any reference to the product quality itself. No need to get all aggravated about it. EDIT: If you thought I prefered the Rival, I don't. The Deathadder Chroma is my weapon of choice. It's much nicer to me.


His tits seemed pretty calm to me. Don't think he got aggravated. Just saying. I think both Ss and Razer are equally lost sheep in terms of technical aspects and build quality. Every brand has some stengths while having other weaknesses. For Logitech the strength is technical details and weakness is shape I guess.


----------



## Alya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> Woah! Calm down. Just talking from a marketing standpoint using the Rival Fade as an example. All I'm saying is that while Razer goes after the uncommon PC CoD player with their Black Ops equipment, SteelSeries has gone after the more common Counter Strike market. I wasn't making any reference to the product quality itself. No need to get all aggravated about it. EDIT: If you thought I prefered the Rival, I don't. The Deathadder Chroma is my weapon of choice. It's much nicer to me.


I wasn't saying you prefer either/or, I was just saying that both Razer and SteelSeries are really out of the loop, the Fade version of the Rival begins to peel after a few weeks so from a marketing standpoint you might draw in a few casual players but you won't get too far with it, sorry if I seemed a little bit angry or whatever, I didn't intend to make it come off that way. I was just pointing out that SS is really dreadful with their QC and design.


----------



## AlCZ

But i have problem - DeathAdder is only mouse which is 100% ergonomic for my hand. When my original DA 2007 "died" i testet Logitech G502 Proteus Core and SteelSeries Rival, but from G502 i have pain in my wrist and the same was Rival. G502 i have as travel mouse for MacBook but only ideal and total "painless and highly comfortable" is only DeathAdder. For this reason i was very sad a build quality go down :/. G502 have strange shape under thumb - here may be more bulbous (fat) and another marks of mouses i don´t test... Shape of DeathAdder is still great. I don´t know mice with better ergonomic (i nicknamed DA as "1911" - it is a legendary "weapon" as famous Colt automatic..." ).


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> AFAIR, the 3.05 drivers causing a short cursor lag every ~5 seconds.


yeah, you're right. i didn't know 3.03 didn't do that, so i bared with it.
but all i cared to do was flash the firmware, anyway  though it's too bad that the LED-settings do not get saved on the mouse after uninstalling the software, heh.


----------



## axmadka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlCZ*
> 
> But i have problem - DeathAdder is only mouse which is 100% ergonomic for my hand. When my original DA 2007 "died" i testet Logitech G502 Proteus Core and SteelSeries Rival, but from G502 i have pain in my wrist and the same was Rival. G502 i have as travel mouse for MacBook but only ideal and total "painless and highly comfortable" is only DeathAdder. For this reason i was very sad a build quality go down :/. G502 have strange shape under thumb - here may be more bulbous (fat) and another marks of mouses i don´t test... Shape of DeathAdder is still great. I don´t know mice with better ergonomic (i nicknamed DA as "1911" - it is a legendary "weapon" as famous Colt automatic..." ).


Did you try mionix castor? Many say it is kinda like DA, a bit smaller, but built with better quality


----------



## AlCZ

No, i don´t try a Mionix Castor. I found a picture where is with DeathAdder side by side but i i don´t think a Minonix is comparable with DeathAdder - have totaly different shape of shell. And i this is problem... I can use only DeathAdder (or 1:1 copy of its shell/body under another label. But i´m not sure who makes a straight copy of DeathAdder - one of A4 looks familiar, but i prefer expensive mouses :/


----------



## ramraze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlCZ*
> 
> No, i don´t try a Mionix Castor. I found a picture where is with DeathAdder side by side but i i don´t think a Minonix is comparable with DeathAdder - have totaly different shape of shell. And i this is problem... I can use only DeathAdder (or 1:1 copy of its shell/body under another label. But i´m not sure who makes a straight copy of DeathAdder - one of A4 looks familiar, but i prefer expensive mouses :/


Castor is way flatter than the Deathadder. It feels like 38 mm, even though specs say 40, it really feels a lot flatter. Don't recommend unless pure claw / fingertip.


----------



## Bucake

is the 3g v2 scroll wheel compatible with the 3.5g scroll wheel?
(also, i presume that the 3.5g (right-handed) scroll wheel is compatible with the left-handed edition?)


----------



## daunow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> Game is a joke when it comes to the Glorious PC Master Race



some kids man
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alya*
> 
> SteelSeries has no clue where it's at, if they did then they wouldn't put out every mouse they have ever made in the state they're in. Awful optical sensors, laser sensor galore, mushy buttons, bad click latency, terrible firmware problems.


Honestly barely ever experienced any of this things with their cheap mices, but me telling you that I didn't doesn't mean that it didn't happen, however neither have my friends.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alya*
> 
> I wasn't saying you prefer either/or, I was just saying that both Razer and SteelSeries are really out of the loop, the Fade version of the Rival begins to peel after a few weeks so from a marketing standpoint you might draw in a few casual players but you won't get too far with it, sorry if I seemed a little bit angry or whatever, I didn't intend to make it come off that way. I was just pointing out that SS is really dreadful with their QC and design.


I have a SS Rival Fade and the 'skin' imperfections were the first thing I noticed while wiping it off. Mine isn't peeling so much as I can see the edges where they didn't get it perfect. My original Rival's inner grip seems to be eating away (not a 'Rival 300') so I can't even feel good about giving it away like that.


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> is the 3g v2 scroll wheel compatible with the 3.5g scroll wheel?
> (also, i presume that the 3.5g (right-handed) scroll wheel is compatible with the left-handed edition?)


nope, v2 is a bit fatter, and the shaft has a shape which make it fit only in the orginal mouse.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thuNDa*
> 
> nope, v2 is a bit fatter, and the shaft has a shape which make it fit only in the orginal mouse.


it was too good to be true!
thanks you for the response 
this'll save me opening the mice up and possibly needing to replace the feet!


----------



## thuNDa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> it was too good to be true!
> thanks you for the response
> this'll save me opening the mice up and possibly needing to replace the feet!


----------



## Eutheran

Alright boys only had to return 3 DAs to find one without a defect. I have used the EC1a for quite awhile and was interested in the DA. So far I have no complaints other than QC, but I hear that is standard for Razer right?

Anyone have tips on what version of synapse to use or some tricks/settings for the mouse? Right now I am using it at 1800 cpi since that was native on the old DAs.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eutheran*
> 
> Alright boys only had to return 3 DAs to find one without a defect. So far I have no complaints other than QC, but I hear that is standard for Razer right?


Too right, if you want truly dodgy quality and limited working life for any input device made by Razer, then that's the misery you have to put up with







.


----------



## defhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlCZ*
> 
> But i have problem - DeathAdder is only mouse which is 100% ergonomic for my hand. When my original DA 2007 "died" i testet Logitech G502 Proteus Core and SteelSeries Rival, but from G502 i have pain in my wrist and the same was Rival. G502 i have as travel mouse for MacBook but only ideal and total "painless and highly comfortable" is only DeathAdder. For this reason i was very sad a build quality go down :/. G502 have strange shape under thumb - here may be more bulbous (fat) and another marks of mouses i don´t test... Shape of DeathAdder is still great. I don´t know mice with better ergonomic (i nicknamed DA as "1911" - it is a legendary "weapon" as famous Colt automatic..." ).


Try the Mamba. It's essentially the same with very slight differences. I'm not sure what you don't like about the build quality of the new DA so I can't really say if you'll notice the same in the Mamba, but I haven't had any concerns about it.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlCZ*
> 
> Try the Mamba. It's essentially the same with very slight differences. I'm not sure what you don't like about the build quality of the new DA so I can't really say if you'll notice the same in the Mamba, but I haven't had any concerns about it.


The NEW Mamba shape you're using (PLN sensor), is it the exact same size as a DeathAdder or smaller?


----------



## pez

Looks like they reduced the weight on the Mamba, but it's still on the heavy side, and a laser sensor which may be hit or miss for FPS gaming.


----------



## Conditioned

I wonder Im considering getting tthe deathadder chroma, can I isntall the drivers, put my settings (1khz lights off 800 dpi etc) save the settings on the mouse and uninstall the drivers?


----------



## ramraze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> I wonder Im considering getting tthe deathadder chroma, can I isntall the drivers, put my settings (1khz lights off 800 dpi etc) save the settings on the mouse and uninstall the drivers?


Of course. It doesnt save lift off though.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramraze*
> 
> Of course. It doesnt save lift off though.


It does, but it won't cause your mousewheel LED to turn off when you reach max Lift off Distance when Razer Synapse is no longer installed.


----------



## defhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> The NEW Mamba shape you're using (PLN sensor), is it the exact same size as a DeathAdder or smaller?


I dont know if its "exactly" the same size.. but I couldnt tell a difference in that aspect.. Just overall I like the shape better with the subtle differences like the left and right buttons dont flare out in the front. You should go watch a comparison review in youtube.


----------



## SmashTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> It does, but it won't cause your mousewheel LED to turn off when you reach max Lift off Distance when Razer Synapse is no longer installed.


You sure of this? Was led to believe otherwise from others. Any test you can run to clarify would help greatly.


----------



## Bucake

how is the DA PCBang Edition its performance? does it perform as well as the regular 3g v2 / 3g v3?
the reason i ask is i'd rather have a DA without side-buttons, and i also prefer the non-braided cable.

supposedly it does have different internals and different firmware, but i couldn't find test-results or user-experience.


----------



## granitov

DA PCBang I've got performs poorly in terms of max. tracking speed, capping at only 1 m/s. But you could order it for the shell and swap the internals from a standard Deathadder.

The new white/silver DAs could have a fixed firmware, though, as they all (PCBang edition included) sport the S3668 sensor and a 16-bit Freescale controller. Buttons 4 and 5 also function if you add microswitches.


----------



## reddy89

Anyone know the weight of PCBang version?


----------



## Conditioned

Has anyone taken da 3g pcb and put it in one of the zowie shells, say ec2/1-a?


----------



## ramraze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> Has anyone taken da 3g pcb and put it in one of the zowie shells, say ec2/1-a?


Shell design is quite different mate. I don't think they fit at all.


----------



## Conditioned

Yea I held them up against eachother and it doesn't look like they fit, but I figured I could ask. Shame, zowie has the most comfy shell which fits sweaty hands but the sensor and buttons lag :/


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> DA PCBang I've got performs poorly in terms of max. tracking speed, capping at only 1 m/s. But you could order it for the shell and swap the internals from a standard Deathadder.
> 
> The new white/silver DAs could have a fixed firmware, though, as they all (PCBang edition included) sport the S3668 sensor and a 16-bit Freescale controller. Buttons 4 and 5 also function if you add microswitches.


those on ebay don't ship to my country :/
too bad. whenever i use my WMO or G100s, i really love that there are no side-buttons. on almost every mouse they are just in the way of my grip. bastards.


----------



## granitov

Check the DA PCBang thread here, some users reported its tracking performance on par with your standard Deathadder. Probably there were several revisions of this mouse, and Razer haven't announced anything (just as they always do, in addition to low popularity of that mouse), so you could try playing a lottery. Or if you have an exchangeable PCB from a convenient Deathadder - no lottery at all.

http://www.amazon.com/Razer-DeathAdder-Infrared-1800dpi-PC-bang/dp/B00B6AYXTW


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

I will say, with the most recent update, my left handed Deathadder actually works the way I want it too haha.


----------



## rivage

Hi,

What's the current best mousepad for DA? PureTrak Talent?
I own a DA 2K13 on a Goliathus Speed Edition. I was just wondering if I should consider changing it since I'm not too sure if it's the right fit for me.

Thank you.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rivage*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> What's the current best mousepad for DA? PureTrak Talent?
> I own a DA 2K13 on a Goliathus Speed Edition. I was just wondering if I should consider changing it since I'm not too sure if it's the right fit for me.
> 
> Thank you.


I use a Goliathus Control and I love it. Razer says that their mats work best with their mice, but that might just be snake oil. I do know that the mat optimization thing in Synapse is just extra hassle. Leaving it off is probably best.


----------



## Conditioned

Is the button at the bottom of the razer 3g used for anything? I can't detect a difference when using it.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conditioned*
> 
> Is the button at the bottom of the razer 3g used for anything? I can't detect a difference when using it.


it switches between profiles saved on your PC with the legacy software. (i assume it also works with synapse.)


----------



## Conditioned

Thanks.


----------



## LzbeL

guys, is required driver for works well the world of tanks version deathadder?? have any important bugs or errors? i want buy it for csgo.


----------



## AlCZ

Mamba (both version - wired or wireless) - are in Czech Republic Very expensive. (exchange rate: Tournament - 100USD/2800CZK and Mamba 16000 cost 195USD/4800CZK)... I haven´t mood a tested another mices with limited budget


----------



## omar231

CAn any 1 locate the exact point the deathadder black m1 switch is placed so i can put my finger on the shell correctly for 1taps


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omar231*
> 
> CAn any 1 locate the exact point the deathadder black m1 switch is placed so i can put my finger on the shell correctly for 1taps


Take a flashlight and shine it in between the big flat "button" and the body of the mouse from the front.

See that solid rectangle thing going from the button to the body? That is the stem that pushes on the switch.

I have no idea why you would ever need to click directly on it, but since you asked, there it is.


----------



## omar231

cant open the right screw under mouse 1 my scroll wheel went loose on me ***


----------



## raucous

So what would you like to see in the next upgrade to the Razer Deathadder?

My wish list:

1) New Sensor (3366 sensor). I have never used this sensor but hear it is the best.
2) Reduced pretravel on MB1 and MB2. I like the light switches on the mouse but not the pretravel.
3) Reduced weight if possible
4) Better cable (current cable often kinks in places)
5) Higher quality rubberised finish - after testing other mice I realise how cheap the coating on the Deathadder feels. I have applied tape to the sides of my deathadder as I find the rubber grips are not grippy.
6) General mouse improvements and quality control (fix squeeky/rattling scroll wheel etc)

I have tested a number of other popular gaming mice and I still prefer the shape of Deathadder and how it conforms to your hand.

So what would you like to see improved in the next version of the Deathadder?


----------



## ramraze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raucous*
> 
> What would you like to see in the next upgrade to the Razer Deathadder?
> 
> I would like:
> 
> New Sensor (3366 sensor)
> Reduced pretravel on MB1 and MB2. I like the light switches on the mouse but not the pretravel.
> Reduced weight
> Better cable (current cable often kinks in places)
> Higher quality rubberised finish, after testing other mice you realise how cheap the coating on the Deathadder feels.
> General mouse improvements (fix squeeky scroll wheel)
> 
> So what would you like to see improved in the next version of the Deathadder?


Riddance of sharp edges, bigger rubber sides







(high quality ones).
Better QC. Ability to store lod and other settings without synapse.

For example, the G402 has completely rubber sides, without any qc issues or stability issues or silly condom textures.


----------



## raucous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramraze*
> 
> Riddance of sharp edges, bigger rubber sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (high quality ones).
> Better QC. Ability to store lod and other settings without synapse.


The sharp edges at the front of the mouse do not really bother me as my fingers do not extend that far. Which part of the mouse bothers you? I agree with the side grips. I also do not like the material used currently and find them slippery. I have stacked two sets of mouse feet on my Deathadder and applied some special mouse tape over the top. This completely eliminates static friction for me, even on a worn QCK. Also helps lower the LOD.


----------



## Bucake

less pre-travel
slightly lower bump
more rounded right side of the front
back to the switches used in the 3g
back to the rubber cable used in the 3g
different scroll wheel for sure
coated sides (not glossy or straight-up rubber)
on-board memory
3366 i guess


----------



## obikenobi27

I'd like a scroll wheel that has left and right clicks. Also make the wheel a little less stiff. It doesn't need to stop as soon as I stop spinning it.


----------



## omar231

i want the 3g back 1800 dpi and 3.5gv2 just updated same sensor same stuff use the mouse switches on da black on all 3


----------



## daav1d

Straighter right side, fully glossy and lower weight.


----------



## Zero4549

I Honestly think most of you are being unrealistic and unreasonable with your "wishlists".

The Deathadder is more or less defined by its shape and its focus as a solid no frills no nonsense gaming mouse.

You might claim that the new Chroma with RGB lighting blurs that line a little, but in actuality switching out the single color LED for a RGB LED doesn't impact the design or performance of the mouse in any way, and only artificially increases price (actual component cost difference is less than a penny per mouse).

You could also argue that Synapse 2.0 adds a bunch of "frills", but that is also a non-start as Synapse 2.0 is universal to all modern Razer products, and can also be uninstalled.

So what does this all mean? It means that if Razer were to make a new Deathadder, there is almost zero chance they will change the outer shape or size in any significant way. Weight is a little more flexible, but I wouldn't expect major changes there either. Additional switches, or major changes to the existing functions (tilting or free spinning scroll wheels for instance) simply are not going to happen.

That isn't to say that a mouse with your ideas will never be make, but if your ideas deviate from the above, then it almost certainly will never see the light of say as part of the Deathadder family. An example of this would be the Mamba. It isn't called the "Deathadder Wireless" for reason. Despite being a close cousin to the Deathadder, it has enough departures from the basic defining principles of the DA line that is simply does not quality as part of it.

Now, as for what I would want in a DA refresh - larger, better quality rubber would be nice, as a few of you mentioned.

Weight reduction would be nice, but as I said I wouldn't expect it to be very significant.

I actually like the wheel itself in this version a lot more than previous wheels (it is a lot less wobbly and has better defined notches), although the new dome shaped microswitch under the wheel is a bit too stiff, so I wouldn't mind that switch reverting to older omron style microswitch.

I would really love a return to the M1 and M2 switches and crisp button feel of my original 3G. Every version since has seemed to get progressively mushier.

The side buttons on the newest versions are the best designed yet, with less change of snapping off, and a better (straighter) mechanical design. Absolutely keep those, but replace the switches themselves with those of the 3G's M1 and M2.

And for the love of all things good - Redesign the feet! I shouldn't have to double up on mouse feet just to stop the bottom of the mouse from dragging, nor should I have to manually round out the right-angle edges of the feet to stop them from snagging on cloth surfaces. Make the two top feet round instead of funky caved in pentagons, and make the bottom foot a nice rounded oval. Make all the feet a little larger than they currently are, and then reduce the depth of the wells they reside in (or even replace them with very short, walled pedestals), so that they protrude more and do not require stacking.

A final, somewhat unrealistic wish (Razer would after all prefer you buy a new mouse rather than service your current one), would be that the screws that hold the two main halves of the shell be moved away from under stickers/feet. Additionally, replace the inner clips that retain the top button cover with some more screws. All of this would be to make servicing the mouse easier and safer.


----------



## Bucake

lol. you say our wishlists are unrealistic, and then you give us another unrealistic wishlist.
but i don't think anyone posted their wishes while thinking those were actually a possibility, anyway. most of us realize just fine what kind of peripherals we can expect from razer.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> lol. you say our wishlists are unrealistic, and then you give us another unrealistic wishlist.
> but i don't think anyone posted their wishes while thinking those were actually a possibility, anyway. most of us realize just fine what kind of peripherals we can expect from razer.


Everything in my list:

A) Will 100% retain the spirit of the Deathadder
B) Will have minimal impacts on cost and manufacturing, and
C) Will actually _improve_ the mouse, with no drawbacks
D) Will not conflict with other Razer products or marketing
E) Has enough detail to actually be implemented in the right direction

In other words, my wishlist is far more realistic, and more importantly, reasonable, than most of those presented so far (including your wish for the new DA to have a completely different shape, to go against Razer's interest (specifically with Synapse 2.0 adoption and price of manufacture) with onboard memory, and to have a "different" but completely unspecified wheel). There is nothing in my list that could be automatically ignored when it comes to a redesign.

Now, it is _likely_ that _anything_ we say here will be heard and implemented by Razer? No, not particularly, but that doesn't mean we should just throw out any form of common sense or best practices when discussing the topic. Even as just a thought exercise, this discussion is far more useful if assumed to take place in the real world.

Furthermore, it is not unheard of for a company to google search their own products to see user opinions and ideas before releasing a new version. In the event Razer actually does look at this thread in the future, would you rather they get some useful information out of it and produce an objectively better DA as a result, or would you rather they see a bunch of people talking out their butts and ignore us entirely?


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raucous*
> 
> So what would you like to see in the next upgrade to the Razer Deathadder?


he didn't ask "what do you think would be reasonable for us to ask Razer to add in a possible future version of the DA" or "what do you think are improvements we might see in a possible next version of the DA", or whatever.
the lists weren't to be taken seriously.

but.. for argument's sake, what makes you think Razer is willing to up quality of things like coating and switches?
with the DA, they've been cutting costs wherever they think they can get away with it ever since the first release. cheaper switches, cheaper plastic, cheaper coating, cheaper this, cheaper that.
and you're basically saying "i want a DA, but with better quality". well, that doesn't sound realistic to me.
i agree with changing the feet, because that would not be a big deal for them to change. though, they have been the same for like 10 years now, so i wouldn't have too much hope.
but i don't really see a reason for them to change the positions of the screws. you, me, we're with the minority who wants to open that stuff up and fix or change things.

don't get me wrong though, i agree with your points, but i think you're being too optimistic about what's realistic.
and in case it makes you feel any better, yes your list was more realistic.








good on you for being optimistic sir


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> he didn't ask "what do you think would be reasonable for us to ask Razer to add in a possible future version of the DA" or "what do you think are improvements we might see in a possible next version of the DA", or whatever.
> the lists weren't to be taken seriously.
> 
> but.. for argument's sake, what makes you think Razer is willing to up quality of things like coating and switches?
> with the DA, they've been cutting costs wherever they think they can get away with it ever since the first release. cheaper switches, cheaper plastic, cheaper coating, cheaper this, cheaper that.
> and you're basically saying "i want a DA, but with better quality". well, that doesn't sound realistic to me.
> i agree with changing the feet, because that would not be a big deal for them to change. though, they have been the same for like 10 years now, so i wouldn't have too much hope.
> but i don't really see a reason for them to change the positions of the screws. you, me, we're with the minority who wants to open that stuff up and fix or change things.
> 
> don't get me wrong though, i agree with your points, but i think you're being too optimistic about what's realistic.
> and in case it makes you feel any better, yes your list was more realistic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good on you for being optimistic sir


3G V2 was a quality improvement in most ways over the V1.

The Black Edition was a quality improvement over the 3.5G.

2013/Basic/Chroma is a quality improvement over Black Edition and 3.5G

The only downgrade was the 3G > 3.5G.

There is absolutely precedence for Razer upgrading rather than downgrading their next version.

Furthermore, if we are going to toss around completely unrealistic and silly suggestions just because you don't feel it was meant to be serious, than I want the next Deathadder to be:

Mady by NASA out of carbonfiber, aerogel, vantablack, and room temperature superconductors.
Print genuine $100 USD bills out of thin air
Shrink down the Hubble space telescope and use it as a sensor.
Dumb, right?


----------



## Bucake

lighten up


----------



## Curleyyy

Has anyone looked into IRQ's for mice?

My USB controller is on IRQ 23 and I want to lower it to 16 as I've read it to be better / priority.


----------



## obikenobi27

How cool would it be if the Deathadder was made out of carbon fiber?


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Curleyyy*
> 
> Has anyone looked into IRQ's for mice?
> 
> My USB controller is on IRQ 23 and I want to lower it to 16 as I've read it to be better / priority.


IRQ 23 is on it's own normally, while IRQ 16 is shared with your Video Card and a few others. Your front USB 2.0 ports should be IRQ 16 if you want to try it out though.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Everything in my list:
> 
> A) Will 100% retain the spirit of the Deathadder
> B) Will have minimal impacts on cost and manufacturing, and
> C) Will actually _improve_ the mouse, with no drawbacks
> D) Will not conflict with other Razer products or marketing
> E) Has enough detail to actually be implemented in the right direction
> 
> In other words, my wishlist is far more realistic, and more importantly, reasonable, than most of those presented so far (including your wish for the new DA to have a completely different shape, to go against Razer's interest (specifically with Synapse 2.0 adoption and price of manufacture) with onboard memory, and to have a "different" but completely unspecified wheel). There is nothing in my list that could be automatically ignored when it comes to a redesign.
> 
> Now, it is _likely_ that _anything_ we say here will be heard and implemented by Razer? No, not particularly, but that doesn't mean we should just throw out any form of common sense or best practices when discussing the topic. Even as just a thought exercise, this discussion is far more useful if assumed to take place in the real world.
> 
> Furthermore, it is not unheard of for a company to google search their own products to see user opinions and ideas before releasing a new version. In the event Razer actually does look at this thread in the future, would you rather they get some useful information out of it and produce an objectively better DA as a result, or would you rather they see a bunch of people talking out their butts and ignore us entirely?


Everything with your list, plus the FinalMouse 2016 braided cable. The FinalMouse 2016's braided cable feels a lot better, and holds whatever shape you give it.


----------



## CptPrice

Hi, guys! I contacted one seller on AliExpress and asked him to send me some photos of his Razer Deathadder 3500 (see attached pictures).
I noticed that the "backing" is black ("backing" is marked with the red arrow on photos). On the Internet I found a lot of pictures where this backing was green, and there were no pictures where it was black. So, guys, what do you think: is it fake or not?


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptPrice*
> 
> Hi, guys! I contacted one seller on AliExpress and asked him to send me some photos of his Razer Deathadder 3500 (see attached pictures).
> I noticed that the "backing" is black ("backing" is marked with the red arrow on photos). On the Internet I found a lot of pictures where this backing was green, and there were no pictures where it was black. So, guys, what do you think: is it fake or not?


Ordered 3 DA's from AliExpress. 1 3.5G and 2 2013's. The 3.5G worked 100% fine with synapse but the left and right click travel distance was insane. I never owned a DA 3.5G before that and don't know if this was the norm for them. Opened it up and the PCB seemed to be legit. Both 2013's felt 100% fine and worked perfectly with synapse. Again, the PCB seemed real. However, the top coating on the second one I recieved felt slightly different. The first one was rougher than the second. I can link you the sellers, if you want.

Edit: The packaging will almost definitely be fake. Why would they still make genuine packaging for a 7 year old mouse? The mouse, however, might be good. My 2013's felt great. Not 100% convinced by the 3.5G. Maybe they took the internals and made a copy of the shell. No idea.


----------



## pez

The clicks and side grips are my biggest gripes. After Steelseries fixed the atrocity that was the side grips on the Rival, it made the mouse instantly better. I've always felt my recent Deathadders never felt as great as I originally remember. After playing with the Rival for quite some time, and recently a Logitech G303, G402 and G502, the DeathAdder 2013 and Chroma both pale in comparison. My left-click is clickier than my right click. I'd go as far to say the right click is mushy and the left click isn't.

The grips would almost make weight a non-factor to me. The Rival and G502 are both heavier mice by default, but don't bother me as much because their weight distribution is even. I can grab the Rival and G502 with my thumb and middle or ring finger in their respective 'halfway' points and they don't tilt forward or backwards. With the Chroma, it will distinctively either tilt forward, or the grips kick and it falls out of that grip for me. It sounds like I'm giving the mouse a lot of flak, but it's still a special mouse to me. I actually prefer a fingertip grip on it now if I do use it as the grips are appropriately placed, and the mouse is properly shaped. However, when you use a proper (palm) mouse like the Rival or the G502/G402, you get to see the true flaws of the mouse.

I'd never want to see the shape of the DeathAdder change. Reducing or increasing the hump is simply a stupid wish and would make it...well...not a DeathAdder (sorry, not sorry).


----------



## CptPrice

Guys, I'm choosing between DA 3500 and DA 2013 for CS: GO. So, the question is: which one is the most comfortable for playing CS GO?
I've read that side grips of DA 2013 become very slippery after about 20 minutes of using and they also quickly come unstuck.
But what about glossy sides of DA 3500? Are they comfortable?


----------



## daniel0731ex

I think the 3.5G sensors has less tracking lag than the smoothed 3988 sensors, according to rafa's Abyssus test.


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptPrice*
> 
> Guys, I'm choosing between DA 3500 and DA 2013 for CS: GO. So, the question is: which one is the most comfortable for playing CS GO?
> I've read that side grips of DA 2013 become very slippery after about 20 minutes of using and they also quickly come unstuck.
> But what about glossy sides of DA 3500? Are they comfortable?


If you're getting it from AliExpress, I'd recommend the 2013 as the 3.5G (that I got from AliExpress) was quite difficult to use even in L4D2, nevermind CSGO. There are more drawbacks to the 3.5G than the 2013. The 3.5G has about 2mm of pre-travel before the left/right buttons actuate which will obviously increase your reaction times by at least a few ms. The lift-off is incredibly high and tape doesn't seem to work too well. The cursor jitters slightly when you get to the tip of the LOD. Also, the 3.5G from Ali is a Synapse mouse so most of the CPI steps will be interpolated, excluding 900, 1800 and 3500. Not good if you're a 400 user. The only issues I had with the 2013 were the materials and the mouse feet. The 2013 has a sandpaper-y top whereas the 3.5G has a smooth rubber which is much nicer. The glossy sides I prefer as it sticks to my fingers better. The rubber strips on the 2013 are way too small for them to be useful for lifting. The mouse feet are god awful on both. Both are incredibly thin and the base scrapes the mouse pad. Invest in something thicker. If Razer just made a 2013 with better materials (smooth top, full rubber or glossy sides for grip) I'd be happy as Larry.


----------



## pez

Yeah, the grips slowly became the worst thing about this mouse for me. Maybe Razer will create a RAW edition like SS did to the Sensei and bring back onboard profiles storage, plain sides, and less weight.

Sticking the grips back on is easy and can be fixed with super glue, but the material and texture of the grips themselves are terrible.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, the grips slowly became the worst thing about this mouse for me. Maybe Razer will create a RAW edition like SS did to the Sensei and bring back onboard profiles storage, plain sides, and less weight.
> 
> Sticking the grips back on is easy and can be fixed with super glue, but the material and texture of the grips themselves are terrible.


They do seem to come off quite easily, but I liked the texture. I guess the Rival's were a bit better though. I wish the Zowie EC1-A had side grips, I'm not sure if I'm just really used to having them on a mouse, or if I actually prefer them yet.


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> They do seem to come off quite easily, but I liked the texture. I guess the Rival's were a bit better though. I wish the Zowie EC1-A had side grips, I'm not sure if I'm just really used to having them on a mouse, or if I actually prefer them yet.


There's always the gun tape


http://imgur.com/T5rIY

. I did the same with one of my recently acquired mice. Overall it serves the purpose, albeit it's a bit more abrasive than I'd like.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> There's always the gun tape
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/T5rIY
> 
> . I did the same with one of my recently acquired mice. Overall it serves the purpose, albeit it's a bit more abrasive than I'd like.


I saw that awhile ago, not sure if on this forum or elsewhere. That was the first thing that came to mind regarding it, that it would be kind of rough and not comfortable. Would you say it's tedious to put on?


----------



## Bucake

any insight as to why this is happening?
my DA 3g is flashed to 1.28 NDC, but on aluminium it seems to have Drift Control?

paint images:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



this is my DA 3g on cloth pad:

imgur link: http://i.imgur.com/U9O4is2.png

this is the same DA 3g on aluminium:

imgur link: http://i.imgur.com/XhC2CHR.png



i found out when testing the mouse on my aluminium pad, to see if there would be less jitter than there is on my cloth mat - i could just feel the cursor snap to and snap from lines..
so i decided to check it in paint, and there you go. peculiar!

- no synapse installed (never have)
- no legacy drivers installed (i had 3.05 installed so i could flash the mouse to 1.28, but I uninstalled it afterwards)
- i cleaned my registry from razer-related left-overs, just in case.

oh, and on this topic, is there a certain cloth mat on which the DA is less jittery?
currently i'm using an all-black corepad deskpad one, but as you can see the mouse is quite jittery on it.


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> I saw that awhile ago, not sure if on this forum or elsewhere. That was the first thing that came to mind regarding it, that it would be kind of rough and not comfortable. Would you say it's tedious to put on?


Well it depends on the mouse. But for a simple shape like the EC it'd be a piece of cake. Remember you can get creative, you don't necessarily have to cover the entire side(s), just your main points of contact if you wanted.

I've actually considered covering a mouse (probably one of the smaller ones) entirely with the stuff, partially for aesthetics. Not quite sure if I'll follow through w/ that one tho


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> Well it depends on the mouse. But for a simple shape like the EC it'd be a piece of cake. Remember you can get creative, you don't necessarily have to cover the entire side(s), just your main points of contact if you wanted.
> 
> I've actually considered covering a mouse (probably one of the smaller ones) entirely with the stuff, partially for aesthetics. Not quite sure if I'll follow through w/ that one tho


Do you have any pics of yours by any chance?

*Edit*:


http://imgur.com/T5rIY


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Do you have any pics of yours by any chance?


I did it with the new Tek Syndicate mouse.

 

Since these pics I've cleaned/trimmed it up a bit more. I was in a rush at the time.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> I did it with the new Tek Syndicate mouse.
> 
> 
> 
> Since these pics I've cleaned/trimmed it up a bit more. I was in a rush at the time.


That looks really good. Hypothetically; if in the future you want to remove it, does removing it ruin the sides of the mouse?


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> That looks really good. Hypothetically; if in the future you want to remove it, does removing it ruin the sides of the mouse?


Nah, that's what's so great about the gun tape. It doesn't leave behind any sticky residue (or any other sign it was ever there). Not to sound like I'm sponsored by them or anything, but I can only say this about "GT-5000 Grip Tape", YMMV w/ alternatives.


----------



## Klopfer

yea , best type of Griptape ...
but I didnt used it on mices







, i used it on my Sportguns







( CO² , & .22 )


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> Nah, that's what's so great about the gun tape. It doesn't leave behind any sticky residue (or any other sign it was ever there). Not to sound like I'm sponsored by them or anything, but I can only say this about "GT-5000 Grip Tape", YMMV w/ alternatives.


Did you use the same type as the imgur album I linked? Can't really tell due to the lighting in your pics.


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Did you use the same type as the imgur album I linked? Can't really tell due to the lighting in your pics.


Yup


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

All I know is, I'm sad that my hand is too small to use the Deathadder well







. Mainly because my thumb can't reach the buttons that well.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> They do seem to come off quite easily, but I liked the texture. I guess the Rival's were a bit better though. I wish the Zowie EC1-A had side grips, I'm not sure if I'm just really used to having them on a mouse, or if I actually prefer them yet.


Yeah...my favorite DeathAdder to date has been the Black Edition. Matte, grip-able sides, but a tad heavier than the successors of it. The gun tape mod could be a good one if the shape is just truly for you, but I'm not sure I'll ever 'daily' the DeathAdder again until it's 'fixed'.


----------



## Alya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah...my favorite DeathAdder to date has been the Black Edition. Matte, grip-able sides, but a tad heavier than the successors of it. The gun tape mod could be a good one if the shape is just truly for you, but I'm not sure I'll ever 'daily' the DeathAdder again until it's 'fixed'.


I've been debating getting the Black Edition off of Amazon, but apparently it feels terrible, there's tons of pre travel on the clicks, and 1000Hz is unstable? What else is there?


----------



## pez

Honestly I used the mouse for CS:Source a bunch. I played a crap ton of modded servers (1300 hours of glass maps, gun game and surf). I never had any qualms with the mouse at that point. However, I did not play or focus on the whole 'low sensitivity for competitive gaming' thing until CS:GO. I'm currently using a G502 as it's a bit of nostalgia for me considering my favorite mouse ever was the MX518. It's only missing the deeper thumb design of the MX518 and G500.


----------



## shatterboxd3

Any chance anyone knows if the Black Edition's shell (sides specifically) would work with the rest of the Chroma? I'd rather the rubberized coating than the rubber grips as they feel slippery to me once my hand warms up.


----------



## bruzanHD

How is QC ad build quality on the latest DA chromas?


----------



## pez

People have complained mostly of sharper edges than previous models and side grips that don't stay on. Edges have yet to bother me, though they are sharper, and one of my grips was this way, but was easily fixed with some glue.

My biggest complaint is that the grips get slick way too quickly. I'm going to possibly try out gun tape on it, or see if I can find some replacement grips for the Rival v2/300 and cut to fit.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> How is QC ad build quality on the latest DA chromas?


Build quality is fine on the Chroma. My braided cable frayed on the side of my desk until the braid eventually split. My desk is very haphazardly build though and I have sharp angles on my desk. Regarding the side grips, they are still intact for me. My only complaint is that they get slippery when wet. It is comparable to the Tour Wrap Golf Pride grip if that makes sense to you. They are great until they get wet. Then you through your club down the fairway unintentionally.


----------



## bruzanHD

Are they built as sturdily as ZOWIEs? I have an FK1 that I broke and want to try something other than EC2-A.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Are they built as sturdily as ZOWIEs? I have an FK1 that I broke and want to try something other than EC2-A.


Never owned a Zowie. For comparison, the mouse is very similar in build quality to a Wii Nunchuck (Not as shiny though; It has a rubberized finish). Sturdy enough to be thrown around, but light enough for ease of use.


----------



## Bucake

i suppose the Guild Wars Edition is a 3G v3 with similar shell as 3.5g?

edit: yep.


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> i suppose the Guild Wars Edition is a 3G v3 with similar shell as 3.5g?
> 
> edit: yep.


Are we talking about this guy?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> I finally opened one of the several sealed Guild Wars DA's I have.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was met with this. I thought Guild Wars DA's were R3's?
> 
> So it's an R2 Rev:G with R3 on the box and sticker underneath the mouse. Classic Razer incompetence. So I don't actually own a R3 Deathadder. I'm okay with that, I guess.


Rev G was just the Kingsis version with Sweeta DM1's.


----------



## Bucake

thanks!

so basically a cheaper R2? that's a shame.
well i have one coming in anyway, NIB even, so hopefully the shell/coating is nice  i actually like the R2 rubber coating, but from pictures it doesn't look like it's the same stuff


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

I can't really hate Sweeta DM1's. They are an acquired taste though.


----------



## m0uz

I introduce to you, the DeathKrait

Just a DA 2013 with an orange LED


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> I introduce you to the DeathKrait
> 
> Just a DA 2013 with an orange LED


Bro, just make it RGB. Just kidding. The only reason I have a Chroma is because it was somehow cheaper.


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> Bro, just make it RGB. Just kidding. The only reason I have a Chroma is because it was somehow cheaper.


I'd need help from the teensy master, qsxcv, to make it a working RGB LED

And to get 10,500 native CPI


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

More like DeathTaipan. That small taipan mouse is an abomination compared to the original Krait.


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> More like DeathTaipan. That small taipan mouse is an abomination compared to the original Krait.


The Krait 2013 was indeed awful in terms of size and build quality but the Krait was always Razer's orange illuminated mouse. For that reason I'll stick with DeathKrait


----------



## trism

Why is it abomination? I'd really want to test it because it seems like optimal width for my gripstyle. My thumb<->pinkie tip distance is around that when my hand is relaxed. I'm really thinking about trying one but CBA to pay 40eur for it shipped in case it's not what I am after









Kinzu is my favorite shape I guess, just can't use it because it doesn't have side buttons. Also, I dislike the 1800 CPI my side buttoned Kinzuadder has.


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trism*
> 
> Why is it abomination? I'd really want to test it because it seems like optimal width for my gripstyle. My thumb<->pinkie tip distance is around that when my hand is relaxed. I'm really thinking about trying one but CBA to pay 40eur for it shipped in case it's not what I am after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinzu is my favorite shape I guess, just can't use it because it doesn't have side buttons. Also, I dislike the 1800 CPI my side buttoned Kinzuadder has.


Krait 2013 doesn't have sidebuttons either, though.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> I can't really hate Sweeta DM1's. They are an acquired taste though.






ebay link

any ideas? same story as the Guild Wars edition, a later R2 with sweetas?


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

This is mr.@thuNDa's territory tbh.

random thoughts
1.lol pax08
2.there were a lot of v2 and v3 versions that differed only cosmetically for promotional usage
3. first time i have seen this one
4. how much leftover stock did razer have if this is from 2008? 2008 was when v3 was the common retail version
5. ask thunda


----------



## thuNDa

from the first looks, it seems to be a Rev.2, unlike the sticker suggests.
On ebay, you see a picture which shows where the cable is leaving the mouse:



http://imgur.com/dAsADoE


Rev.3 would have some small support for the cable there:



http://imgur.com/tIDajoU


----------



## Bucake

thanks guys. great pics too


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> How is QC ad build quality on the latest DA chromas?


I got one with a new font on the bottom of the box for the Serial Number, and it was much better than the prior ones I had gotten, all with issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Are they built as sturdily as ZOWIEs? I have an FK1 that I broke and want to try something other than EC2-A.


It's really toss up, you just pray you get a good one. Local BestBuy's got a new batch, it has a new font and it's bold for the Serial Number, and it was much better quality. All the other ones I got with Serial Numbers extremely close together, had a magnitude of issues.

I'm just assuming the new serial number font is indication of a new batch, I could be completely wrong of course.


----------



## dakuzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay link
> 
> any ideas? same story as the Guild Wars edition, a later R2 with sweetas?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> 2.there were a lot of v2 and v3 versions that differed only cosmetically for promotional usage


I ended making an offer and buying that deathadder. Just based off the LOD it feels like a V3 inside a V2 shell


----------



## Bucake

cool  it looked like it's still in pretty good shape
coating looks like that of 3.5g, which i guess is similar to V3?


----------



## dakuzo

The top coating is pretty tacky. Feels really good with my dry hands.
The glossy coating on the sides feel similar to the 3.5g sides


----------



## Scrimstar

Are the non LED DAs lighter (ie BO3 ed), and which mouse skates are good replacements for DA


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dakuzo*
> 
> I ended making an offer and buying that deathadder. Just based off the LOD it feels like a V3 inside a V2 shell


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> This is mr.@thuNDa's territory tbh.
> 
> random thoughts
> 1.lol pax08
> 2.there were a lot of v2 and v3 versions that differed only cosmetically for promotional usage
> 3. first time i have seen this one
> 4. how much leftover stock did razer have if this is from 2008? 2008 was when v3 was the common retail version
> 5. ask thunda


You can tell without opening by looking at cable tip. That's a kingsis design







Internal parts are the original manufacture or "v2".

Otherwise it would look like this:



vs.


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> Are the non LED DAs lighter (ie BO3 ed), and which mouse skates are good replacements for DA


Logic says that they would be lighter. I use these mouse skates on top of the originals top prevent bottoming out the mouse. You can buy them from the eBay seller somewhere. They come in packs of two and are the ones Razer sells as replacement. They just aren't at Razer prices.


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scrimstar*
> 
> which mouse skates are good replacements for DA


hyperglides

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> You can tell without opening by looking at cable tip. That's a kingsis design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Internal parts are the original manufacture or "v2".


good to know 
thanks!

edit: the GW edition is obviously v2.
unfortunately i got scammed a bit. it was sold as NIB, but the mouse has obviously been used. the box had clearly been opened before, but a new round sticker had been applied. you really couldn't tell from the pictures..
dirty tricks from low people.


----------



## Scrimstar

are these good

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Sets-Razer-Deathadder-Competition-Hotline-Games-Mouse-Feet-2014-Edition-0-28mm-/271743695783?hash=item3f452fbba7:g:kfAAAOSwmrlUuY3r


----------



## pez

Hotline feet are good for the price, but ultimately I like the Hyperglides better.


----------



## Bucake

$15 - Deathadder 2013:
"Buttons work, but scroll wheel has a problem. Overall very well maintained..AS IS. NO RETURN - NO REFUND - NO WARRANTY."

in case someone in the US wants it for parts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-Ergonomic-Gaming-Mouse-/162048891907?hash=item25badddc03:g:lEIAAOSwU0RXHNt-#viTabs_0


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> $15 - Deathadder 2013:
> "Buttons work, but scroll wheel has a problem. Overall very well maintained..AS IS. NO RETURN - NO REFUND - NO WARRANTY."
> 
> in case someone in the US wants it for parts:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-DeathAdder-Ergonomic-Gaming-Mouse-/162048891907?hash=item25badddc03:g:lEIAAOSwU0RXHNt-#viTabs_0


For a used mouse, I'd expect a lot more pics, and a video if possible of said mousewheel issue.


----------



## Tmfs

Fake? http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA9JN3FR9243


----------



## axmadka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tmfs*
> 
> Fake? http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA9JN3FR9243


more like OEM, which can be registered in synapse


----------



## Coffee Bean

Any tips how to easly remove that rubbery coating on mouse? I am palmer and this coating is too slippery for me.


----------



## pnoozi

I just picked up a DA Chroma from Best Buy. I noticed different serial numbers so I grabbed one at the front of the shelf with serial number starting with "SI16" in hopes that it's the newest revision.


----------



## pez

Something different about a new revision? I wasn't aware that there was a recent revision.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnoozi*
> 
> I just picked up a DA Chroma from Best Buy. I noticed different serial numbers so I grabbed one at the front of the shelf with serial number starting with "SI16" in hopes that it's the newest revision.


Revision?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Something different about a new revision? I wasn't aware that there was a recent revision.


Nothing has been revised from my knowledge at all. The overwatch DA has the newer scroll. That's about it.


----------



## pez

Ah, I see the design is actually different, but is it any difference then the bumps? I.e. a new switch?


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> Nothing has been revised from my knowledge at all. The overwatch DA has the newer scroll. That's about it.


Yep, sounds like Razer as always - Release a new Colour shell then pretend it's better than it's other Chromas.

Typical, shame nothing ever changes with them







.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> Yep, sounds like Razer as always - Release a new Colour shell then pretend it's better than it's other Chromas.
> 
> Typical, shame nothing ever changes with them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I doubt that's what this is considering they've done game and team-based designs before.


----------



## pnoozi

Does the DA still use Omron switches?


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pnoozi*
> 
> Does the DA still use Omron switches?


Yea they do.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pnoozi*
> 
> Does the DA still use Omron switches?
> 
> 
> 
> Yea they do.
Click to expand...

You have to respect them for that at least, STILL using Omrons verses SteelSeries cheapening out with horrid TTCs and their own rubbish-named versions.

Actually now hate SteelSeries more than Razer, Go figure







.


----------



## Alya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> You have to respect them for that at least, STILL using Omrons verses SteelSeries cheapening out with horrid TTCs and their own rubbish-named versions.
> 
> Actually now hate SteelSeries more than Razer, Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've hated SS more than Razer since the start, the Kinzu v1 and Siberia are the only 2 products I have bought from them, and I think it's gonna stay that way for a long time. Aren't SS Oranges actually Kailh though?


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> You have to respect them for that at least, STILL using Omrons verses SteelSeries cheapening out with horrid TTCs and their own rubbish-named versions.
> 
> Actually now hate SteelSeries more than Razer, Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


The SS switches in the Rival 700 are great to me. They should have all the mice they produce feel just as good.

Edit: speaking of, i suppose Razer is close to pushing the new DA soon.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> Edit: speaking of, i suppose Razer is close to pushing the new DA soon.


We'll see, let's hope it's a new 3360 version.

Then behold the mice world is rapidly populating itself with the 3360 sensor this time. BRILLIANT for any Gamers out there







.


----------



## Aymanb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> The SS switches in the Rival 700 are great to me. They should have all the mice they produce feel just as good.
> 
> Edit: speaking of, i suppose Razer is close to pushing the new DA soon.


I can't relate to the rival 700, but the 300 definitely had fantastic buttons and a beautiful design of them aswell.

300 still my favorite mouse but impossible to perform with it with that size. Shame about the 700 price.


----------



## e4stw00t

I only used the 300 for some time, but if I remember correctly the switches been...okay I would say, little bit soft, tad mushy, not as crisp or tactile as I prefer. No idea if they reused them in the 7000 as well or used an updated version of their switches.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> We'll see, let's hope it's a new 3360 version.
> 
> Then behold the mice world is rapidly populating itself with the 3360 sensor this time. BRILLIANT for any Gamers out there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yea they'll call it something different though. Lol

I would like to see them make the 1 & 2's seperate. If not i'm still good with it. The upper right corner not being sharp will help those who hate that about the mouse as well.

Said it before & will say it again, the DA already has the best sidebuttons in the game. Best placement as well, effortless to click either forward or back.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aymanb*
> 
> I can't relate to the rival 700, but the 300 definitely had fantastic buttons and a beautiful design of them aswell.
> 
> 300 still my favorite mouse but impossible to perform with it with that size. Shame about the 700 price.


700 price is dumb as hell. The shape though is fantastic. Along with the buttons.


----------



## kokoska

I bought a deathadder from aliexpress to test it, here is the outcome


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> The SS switches in the Rival 700 are great to me. They should have all the mice they produce feel just as good.
> 
> Edit: speaking of, i suppose Razer is close to pushing the new DA soon.


Where's everyone hearing about the news of a new DA? Just want to read for myself is all







.


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokoska*
> 
> I bought a deathadder from aliexpress to test it, here is the outcome


damn bro, that sucks. you deserve every penny back. hopefully that process goes smoothly for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Where's everyone hearing about the news of a new DA? Just want to read for myself is all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


No official word, just seems to be "about that time".


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Where's everyone hearing about the news of a new DA? Just want to read for myself is all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


As Max said, no real official word really. It's been 3 years since the DA was updated really. The chroma doesn't count. Only difference is the upped DPI(10k) & the purrrrrdddy colors.

I doubt Razer will let the upcoming Holiday pass without a New iteration of the DA. No idea what they will really do, but we can all guess. Some have said the Mamba fixes the DA's issues but the Sensor kills that mouse.

Some see the Mamba as a DA killer, but i doubt they'll let go of a Flagship like the DA. IF RaZer doesn't pop with something this year i'll be surprised.


----------



## ncck

I wouldn't be surprised if the liquid guys had a new DA along with that new mouse pad

@koko

Isn't ali express a website mainly for counterfeits?


----------



## pez

Ah, I see. I would welcome a DA with the side grips of the Mamba. They seem to be infinitely more useful and less slippery. The revised Rival 300 or plastic-molded Rival 100 are my favorite so far besides no side grips at all. I have avoided the Mamba due to the laser sensor, but has there been reports of the sensor exhibiting malfunctioning or terrible acceleration?


----------



## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kokoska*
> 
> I bought a deathadder from aliexpress to test it, here is the outcome


maybe it's a fake:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1324292/warning-fake-deathadders-around
0.5m/s, does that sound about right? (you can check with MouseTester.)

_if_ yours is fake, then it looks fairly well done. you could try to find find some 3.5g pictures online to compare yours with. the cable, the stickers, the feet, scroll wheel, etc
not that it really matters, obviously there's something wrong.


----------



## Aymanb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Ah, I see. I would welcome a DA with the side grips of the Mamba. They seem to be infinitely more useful and less slippery. The revised Rival 300 or plastic-molded Rival 100 are my favorite so far besides no side grips at all. I have avoided the Mamba due to the laser sensor, but has there been reports of the sensor exhibiting malfunctioning or terrible acceleration?


According to rocketjumpninja it has issues tracking small movements and other inaccuracies.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aymanb*
> 
> According to rocketjumpninja it has issues tracking small movements and other inaccuracies.


Yep, I actually just got finished watching that video







. It's a shame. I'm currently in the process of RMA'ing a GB XM-300 and Zowie EC1-A. Both great mice for those of you that like the DA shape. Just hoping the ones I get back are flawless







.


----------



## DanzoMeteor

Anyone have the Overwatch version of the new Razer mouse? Can anyone confirm is there any differences? Sometimes we assume its precisely the same, but sometimes it isn't.
How do you like it?


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanzoMeteor*
> 
> Anyone have the Overwatch version of the new Razer mouse? Can anyone confirm is there any differences? Sometimes we assume its precisely the same, but sometimes it isn't.
> How do you like it?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1579555/razer-overwatch-deathadder-chroma-goliathus-speed

I talked about it in this thread here. Also posted pics of the mouse. Only real change is the scroll wheel design.

The front right of the mouse isn't sharp as some have talked about in their chromas.


----------



## e4stw00t

I tried the Overwatch version at a friend of mine and to be honest I don't see much they desperately need to improve.

Outside of the scroll wheel which is a bit flimsy - as it's the case on a lot of mice - the build quality seemed surprisingly good.

Also personally I see the 3366 as a minor upgrade to the 3988. Maybe this will look different once 3366 mice in shells that suit me personally better become available.

If DA would be a bit wider around the center I might actually use the current version - unfortunately the current one makes my hand cramp after longer periods of use.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e4stw00t*
> 
> I tried the Overwatch version at a friend of mine and to be honest I don't see much they desperately need to improve.
> 
> Outside of the scroll wheel which is a bit flimsy - as it's the case on a lot of mice - the build quality seemed surprisingly good.
> 
> Also personally I see the 3366 as a minor upgrade to the 3988. Maybe this will look different once 3366 mice in shells that suit me personally better become available.
> 
> If DA would be a bit wider around the center I might actually use the current version - unfortunately the current one makes my hand cramp after longer periods of use.


Wider?? What mousedo you currently use?


----------



## DanzoMeteor

*PhiZaRoaH* thanks guys for p ointing out the thread








I really prefer the design of the Overwatch color scheme over the green. Looks like the mouse delivers !
But wider..really? Dude must have big hands.


----------



## bruzanHD

Is this a fake? Or real?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Original-Razer-Deathadder-mouse-1800DPI-Gaming-Mouse-With-Original-Box-White-/322021934307?hash=item4afa00c4e3:g:Fy8AAOSwFNZW0viZ


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Is this a fake? Or real?
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Original-Razer-Deathadder-mouse-1800DPI-Gaming-Mouse-With-Original-Box-White-/322021934307?hash=item4afa00c4e3:g:Fy8AAOSwFNZW0viZ


I Believe that is a PC bang edition isn't it? was it ever confirmed if the sensor performs the same as a regular 3g DA?


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Is this a fake? Or real?
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Original-Razer-Deathadder-mouse-1800DPI-Gaming-Mouse-With-Original-Box-White-/322021934307?hash=item4afa00c4e3:g:Fy8AAOSwFNZW0viZ
> 
> 
> 
> I Believe that is a PC bang edition isn't it? was it ever confirmed if the sensor performs the same as a regular 3g DA?
Click to expand...

It is, so go and get some







.


----------



## bruzanHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> It is, so go and get some
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


SOooo it's real?


----------



## pez

Man if it had the side buttons and a DPI switch, it'd just about be perfect







.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> SOooo it's real?


yea it is, I was looking into them while searching for a 3g a bit ago. They have a Silver and black version too.


----------



## bruzanHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> yea it is, I was looking into them while searching for a 3g a bit ago. They have a Silver and black version too.


I'm probably gonna have to get one, I need a cheap mouse. I'm sure they are better than the rival 100 for likr the same price.


----------



## Shwiqo6434

..


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *przem33k*
> 
> Nevermind...


Don't be shy.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *przem33k*
> 
> Nevermind...
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be shy.
Click to expand...

You're young only once and I doubt these type of Razer Models will keep on being available within the near future.

Buy it, you'll be amazed at the quality compared to the expensive junk being sold already through their retail outlets.


----------



## bruzanHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> You're young only once and I doubt these type of Razer Models will keep on being available within the near future.
> 
> Buy it, you'll be amazed at the quality compared to the expensive junk being sold already through their retail outlets.


Assuming you have one, what is the max tracking speed/PCS? Is it 1.5m/s?


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruzanHD*
> 
> Assuming you have one, what is the max tracking speed/PCS? Is it 1.5m/s?


I DESPISE everything to do with Razer







.

So I won't be spending any moolah on their junk, especially now.


----------



## granitov

Expecting that new 3-button Silver edition soon. Will see if the sensor is as decent as original 3G (actually it's the firmware that matters).


----------



## SLOWION

Lenovo has a mouse on the way with the same/similar shape to the DeathAdder, uses an Avago 3050 though


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLOWION*
> 
> Lenovo has a mouse on the way with the same/similar shape to the DeathAdder, uses an Avago 3050 though


Why do the keep using that awful sensor?


----------



## Melan

3050 isn't bad at all. Well... as long as you stay below 1000 cpi that is.


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> 3050 isn't bad at all. Well... as long as you stay below 1000 cpi that is.


99% of 3050 mice have an extreme lift-off distance. Some have a low PCS even at 500. Then there's the constant extrapolation and the limiting of the number of available steps.

Edit: I'd genuinely take a laser based mouse over a 3050


----------



## Melan

Low pcs as in how low? Most can easily track have max speed of 4m/s, which is beyond what you'll reach during gaming.
While lod is pretty high, you can tape it. I find 3988 lod even more disgusting tbh.
3050 has native steps of 250. If you're hellbent on having 400 or 800 cpi, yeah it's not a good choice. Otherwise I don't see why anyone wouldn't just slightly decrease sensitivity.

And on that note, idk what you expect from lenovo.


----------



## davezoo

Hi guys!

I need a little help. I have a DeathAdder 2013 mouse and the middle button first started to double click then stopped working. I want to replace the tactile switch but i don't know the size of it. My main interest would be the height of the switch. Is this switch changed or is it the same in the earlier models?

Any help is appreciated.

Regards,
Dave


----------



## Luiz88

Hello people , I need your help to recover my deathadder , can someone tell me the place marked in the picture?
I burned some tracks without wanting to change the flat cable.

Someone would have the electrical diagram it?

https://s32.postimg.org/6d8f9t145/IMG_20.jpg

Thanks


----------



## granitov

davezoo, you'll need a Huano square switch which is a bit shorter than most of the others.

Looks like this:


----------



## granitov

Luiz88, it's as following (same on both boards)

10 - wheel LED an.
9 - scroll middle pin
8 - mouse4 NO
7 - mouse3
6 - mouse2 NO
5 - mouse1 NO
4 - mouse5 NO
3 - scroll lower pin
2 - wheel LED cat.
1 - gnd


----------



## Luiz88

Very thanks, granitov.
It was of great help , I saved!!!!


----------



## benllok

Hey guys, does anybody know if its possible to use a DA 3.5G shell with a DA chroma internals? My DA chroma has a crack in the middle of the left button which is preventing me from clicking. Warranty is over so I just thought on buying a second hand DA 3.5G for cheap and use its shell to install on the DA chroma. Would you say this is gonna work?

Sorry if this has been answered before


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benllok*
> 
> Hey guys, does anybody know if its possible to use a DA 3.5G shell with a DA chroma internals? My DA chroma has a crack in the middle of the left button which is preventing me from clicking. Warranty is over so I just thought on buying a second hand DA 3.5G for cheap and use its shell to install on the DA chroma. Would you say this is gonna work?
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered before


no, they don't fit with eachother.


----------



## RealityBoost

So I got my hands on a Black Ops 3 Deathadder Chroma for 40€. Think it works great, have any of you this version of the mouse?


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RealityBoost*
> 
> So I got my hands on a Black Ops 3 Deathadder Chroma for 40€. Think it works great, have any of you this version of the mouse?


Probably not many due to it mostly being severely overpriced


----------



## RealityBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> Probably not many due to it mostly being severely overpriced


Yeah, that's probably right. It got a huge price cut at Webhallen, so it was about 25€ less than a regular Deathadder Chroma, so it felt like a good deal.


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RealityBoost*
> 
> Yeah, that's probably right. It got a hugeprice cut at Webhallen, so it was about 25€ less than a regular Deathadder Chroma, so it felt like a good deal.


€40 is what a DeathAdder _should_ cost, if even that. I have a DA2013 which I got for £27/€32/$35 and the materials are god awful. The scroll wheel grinded against the LED PCB so I had to remove it. All the buttons click nicely but the general feeling of the mouse is so cheap it's unbelievable. Performance is fine apart from the mouse feet being far too thin, making the base scrape the mousepad. I had to fill in the grooves and put new mouse feet on top to make it glide properly.


----------



## RealityBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> €40 is what a DeathAdder _should_ cost, if even that. I have a DA2013 which I got for £27/€32/$35 and the materials are god awful. The scroll wheel grinded against the LED PCB so I had to remove it. All the buttons click nicely but the general feeling of the mouse is so cheap it's unbelievable. Performance is fine apart from the mouse feet being far too thin, making the base scrape the mousepad. I had to fill in the grooves and put new mouse feet on top to make it glide properly.


Huh, sounds pretty bad. I remember that the sidegrips started to get loose on my normal DA2013, which made me try the Zowie FK1. Several mouses later, I'm currently rocking the Rival 700/Deathadder Chroma, two mice I really like.

Anyhow, which brand of skates should I get for the Deathadder Chroma? Hyperglides or Hotline Games 0.6mm Competition?


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> Low pcs as in how low? Most can easily track have max speed of 4m/s, which is beyond what you'll reach during gaming.
> While lod is pretty high, you can tape it. I find 3988 lod even more disgusting tbh.
> 3050 has native steps of 250. If you're hellbent on having 400 or 800 cpi, yeah it's not a good choice. Otherwise I don't see why anyone wouldn't just slightly decrease sensitivity.


Low PCS as in <60ips. I've had 3050 mice that geniunely malfunction [at 500] at worse speeds than a WMO.
Yes, you can tape it but some don't take it well and start jittering when you lift it.
When I said there's limited CPI steps, I meant when companies only let you use, say, 1000, 2000 and [extrapolated] 4000, for example, without any way to adjust them. I don't mind using 500.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> And on that note, idk what you expect from lenovo.


True








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RealityBoost*
> 
> Huh, sounds pretty bad. I remember that the sidegrips started to get loose on my normal DA2013, which made me try the Zowie FK1. Several mouses later, I'm currently rocking the Rival 700/Deathadder Chroma, two mice I really like.
> 
> Anyhow, which brand of skates should I get for the Deathadder Chroma? Hyperglides or Hotline Games 0.6mm Competition?


I, personally, wouldn't dream of buying such premium (HyperGlide) mouse skates for such a cheaply made product.

Edit: Also, what's this?

http://www.razerzone.com/gb-en/store/razer-deathadder-classic


----------



## RealityBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> I, personally, wouldn't dream of buying such premium (HyperGlide) mouse skates for such a cheaply made product.
> 
> Edit: Also, what's this?
> 
> http://www.razerzone.com/gb-en/store/razer-deathadder-classic


Alright, fair enough. And I have no clue actually, did that come up just now?

EDIT: NVM, found this: http://www.razersupport.com/gaming-mice/razer-deathadder-classic/

"What is the difference between the Classic Version and the original version?
Razer products were first established with a distinctive blue, only to be replaced by the striking green of today. To pay homage to Razer's origins we have released the classic version that that utilizes the signature blue LED's while featuring current generation tech specs and features."


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> Edit: Also, what's this?
> 
> http://www.razerzone.com/gb-en/store/razer-deathadder-classic


Just a Blue 2013 DA pretty much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RealityBoost*
> 
> Huh, sounds pretty bad. I remember that the sidegrips started to get loose on my normal DA2013, which made me try the Zowie FK1. Several mouses later, I'm currently rocking the Rival 700/Deathadder Chroma, two mice I really like.
> 
> Anyhow, which brand of skates should I get for the Deathadder Chroma? Hyperglides or Hotline Games 0.6mm Competition?


Hyperglides all day...ALLL DAY.


----------



## nsdjoe

I just bought my first DeathAdder (Chroma) a few days ago off Amazon and was pleasantly surprised by the build quality. The plastic itself is maybe slightly cheap feeling (I would have preferred rubberized all around), but overall it seems very well put together. No rattles at all when I shake it, not even the scrollwheel, and I think this is the first mouse that I can say that about.

So either the Chroma has just always been better put together than the 2013, or they improved their processes in the intervening years.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nsdjoe*
> 
> I just bought my first DeathAdder (Chroma) a few days ago off Amazon and was pleasantly surprised by the build quality. The plastic itself is maybe slightly cheap feeling (I would have preferred rubberized all around), but overall it seems very well put together. No rattles at all when I shake it, not even the scrollwheel, and I think this is the first mouse that I can say that about.
> 
> So either the Chroma has just always been better put together than the 2013, or they improved their processes in the intervening years.


My Chroma never had any issues. Although, honestly, I've owned MANY Deathadders, and only the very first 3G V1 ever has any manufacturing errors. I'm pretty sure people just like making up nonsense to confirm their bias regarding Razer build quality.


----------



## nsdjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> My Chroma never had any issues. Although, honestly, I've owned MANY Deathadders, and only the very first 3G V1 ever has any manufacturing errors. I'm pretty sure people just like making up nonsense to confirm their bias regarding Razer build quality.


Well, I haven't had the best luck with them in the past myself. Had a Razer keyboard that went bad in just over a year, and a Razer Blade laptop that broke within a month of receiving it. No problem getting it repaired of course, but still annoying.


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> I'm pretty sure people just like making up nonsense to confirm their bias regarding Razer build quality.


Incorrect. The 2013 edition I have had (bought shortly after release) had numerous issues - scroll rattle, oversensitive RMB, shell squeak when I pushed on it - generally felt like a thin cheap PoS. Fixed the RMB with microswitch replacement (funny that they decided to install a switch with 15...20g less OF), homemade a small spring to stabilize the wheel.

I even went to shop to touch the Chroma and, damn, it does have the same oversensitive right click (I only slightly put finger on it and it clicks). Unsure if the shell is as crappy as it was in 2013, but internally it looks the same on the photos. Abyssus 2014 build quality isn't much better. Older Deathadders, on the other hand, feel a bit sturdier.

Pretty sure people who praise Razer either won a QC lottery or barely stress quality of the product.


----------



## nsdjoe

I'm also pleasantly surprised by the weight - I was expecting in the 105g range.


----------



## SmashTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benllok*
> 
> Hey guys, does anybody know if its possible to use a DA 3.5G shell with a DA chroma internals? My DA chroma has a crack in the middle of the left button which is preventing me from clicking. Warranty is over so I just thought on buying a second hand DA 3.5G for cheap and use its shell to install on the DA chroma. Would you say this is gonna work?
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered before


Couldn't you buy a shell on say eBay or something? Least I recall you could.


----------



## benllok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> no, they don't fit with eachother.


K, thanks for confirming that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmashTV*
> 
> Couldn't you buy a shell on say eBay or something? Least I recall you could.


Yea that's the next thing to look for. I just had a chance to get an used DA 3.5G for real cheap and thought it could be compatible. There's a chinese seller in ebay selling the chroma shell for $20, I hope it's not a fake because there aren't many options at this point.

Thanks for the suggestion


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> Expecting that new 3-button Silver edition soon. Will see if the sensor is as decent as original 3G


It isn't.


----------



## Alya

Epic 1m/s malfunction speed.


----------



## Bucake

lol. are they fakes or actually really low budget?
has no-one opened one up to see what the sensor actually is then?


----------



## granitov

They're all genuine. Maybe it's 'cause the MCU's architecture is 8-bit (it's the same as in 2013/Chroma besides this aspect). Doubt they would downgrade the firmware like that intentionally, because DA 3G is a very decent mouse tracking-wise.


----------



## SmashTV

Picked up a 2013 at a yard sale for $10. Can't remember the last time I used this shape but the hump makes it feel needlessly bulky.

Clicks are surprisingly nice.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmashTV*
> 
> Picked up a 2013 at a yard sale for $10. Can't remember the last time I used this shape but the hump makes it feel needlessly bulky.
> 
> Clicks are surprisingly nice.


Love the hump, it hugs right up under my index knuckle.


----------



## k2015

does anyone of you know an alternative mouse with the same sensor as the deathadder 2013?


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k2015*
> 
> does anyone of you know an alternative mouse with the same sensor as the deathadder 2013?


Xm 300 is the most popular one i's say currently with the same sensor.

Roccat kone xtd optical is another mouse.


----------



## k2015

it has the same shape so its nothing for me?you know an other mice with an Ambidextros shape?


----------



## SmashTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> Love the hump, it hugs right up under my index knuckle.


I'm getting used to it with a little bit of use. I know they tweaked the shape a bit since it feels slightly different to me ye olde 2012 Mamba. It's not an ergonomic design I'm familiar with to say the least. I wish the coating was as good as the G402. I just washed my hands and I can grip the G402 that's been unused today but the DA which has seen some use isn't as easy to grab.

Nitpicking. Otherwise so far so good, triple so at the price I paid for it.

Also Synapse installer constantly crashing during install in my VM was an amusing experience.


----------



## r_aquarii

i had 2 dead deathadder 2013 mouse over the past 1yr. i love the shape of the mouse but given up on the quality.
is there any good gaming mice which has same or similar shape as DA?


----------



## drewno

zowie ec1-a / ec2-a or gigabyte xm300, both are rather equal to DA in case of the overall quality


----------



## fuzzybass

Quote:


> I know they tweaked the shape a bit since it feels slightly different to me ye olde 2012 Mamba.


Just as an FYI, the actual shape of the Deathadder has always stayed the same (with some minor tweaks like the rubber grips). It's the Mamba that has always been slightly different than the Deathadder in shape (slightly smaller for the 2012, and slightly less curvy for the current generation).


----------



## revoc

So I picked up a brand new DA Chroma and noticed some imperfections. I see what looks like a hairline crack at the bottom arrow. Does anyone else have this? GG Razer quality control.


----------



## granitov

Not the worst flaw you could encounter, that's pretty much nothing. Keep looking.


----------



## revoc

Thinking about exchanging it for another one. But if it's a common defect then what's the point?


----------



## Bucake

imo it's a valid reason to return it. personally i never bother because it's often a pain to deal with customer service, but i can imagine being annoyed by the damage.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> So I picked up a brand new DA Chroma and noticed some imperfections. I see what looks like a hairline crack at the bottom arrow. Does anyone else have this? GG Razer quality control.


I do not have any such issues with any of my 6 Deathadders.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granitov*
> 
> Not the worst flaw you could encounter, that's pretty much nothing. Keep looking.


Don't be a ****. We all know it is popular to act like Razer QC is the devil, but you know full well that this is an uncommon and unacceptable flaw for a brand new mouse.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> Thinking about exchanging it for another one. But if it's a common defect then what's the point?


It is not common, you should absolutely exchange it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> imo it's a valid reason to return it. personally i never bother because it's often a pain to deal with customer service, but i can imagine being annoyed by the damage.


Where do you buy your mice from? Almost any reputable retailer or e-retailer would accept that exchange as soon as they saw the mouse / picture of the mouse. There are some scummy small companies, and individual-to-individual sales like ebay or craigslist that might hassle you for this stuff I guess, but I've never found either of those options to be significantly cheaper when it comes to NIB current-generation computer peripherals.


----------



## granitov

Emotion's like you're Razer's marketer or something. It's known they have low QC threshold. Small dots and moulding imperfections, shell skewness, uneven button pretravel - all pass the QC. This is what could be related to isolated cases of improper moulding and assembly (wish they upped the 3d moulds to the level of their older mice at least; maybe they did in new Mambas, will never find out). There also were cases when early DA2013s failed completely in the first few hours of use.

All could be rightfully considered a reason for return, but think they shouldn't appear in the first place. Don't think they're much worse than Steelseries, though, as their Kinzu is like that (my Sensei RAWs had no isolated flaws but rather a design flaw of wheel being rather loose). Could call me fussy but that doesn't make their QC better.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> Where do you buy your mice from? Almost any reputable retailer or e-retailer would accept that exchange as soon as they saw the mouse / picture of the mouse. There are some scummy small companies, and individual-to-individual sales like ebay or craigslist that might hassle you for this stuff I guess, but I've never found either of those options to be significantly cheaper when it comes to NIB current-generation computer peripherals.


If he bought it off Fleabay then it's EASY to get a FULL Refund off them.

Upload the pics onto their claims section and a month later get your money back in full. As much as I despise Fleabay, Paypal at least guarantees a full refund on any bought and broken item(s).


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drewno*
> 
> zowie ec1-a / ec2-a or gigabyte xm300, both are rather equal to DA in case of the overall quality


Pretty much this. I recommend the Zowie over the XM-300, but either will satisfy the shape requirements.


----------



## revoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> So I picked up a brand new DA Chroma and noticed some imperfections. I see what looks like a hairline crack at the bottom arrow. Does anyone else have this? GG Razer quality control.


I exchanged it yesterday without any troubles. The lady was very friendly. Very happy with this mouse so far. Let's see what kind of durability it has. I had a Steelseries Rival (1st version) and after a year, after warranty expired, had issue with scroll wheel where when you scrolled down the webpage scrolled up.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> I exchanged it yesterday without any troubles. The lady was very friendly. Very happy with this mouse so far. Let's see what kind of durability it has. I had a Steelseries Rival (1st version) and after a year, after warranty expired, had issue with scroll wheel where when you scrolled down the webpage scrolled up.


That is a common issue with not just steelseries but also every other mouse that uses mechanical wheel encoders. You can usually fix it with some electrical contact cleaner if you want to revive your Rival (and prolong the life of any future mice). Eventually though, it will just wear out to the point where it no longer is fixable with simple cleaning, but in my personal experience that takes something like 5 years of constant use. At that point you need solder on a new encoder or replace the mouse.


----------



## agsz

Anything new with the latest Synapse update? Last time I updated / was on my desktop PC, Razer Synapse Framework_V1.18.21.28549v2 had just come out.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Anything new with the latest Synapse update? Last time I updated / was on my desktop PC, Razer Synapse Framework_V1.18.21.28549v2 had just come out.


It fixes some bugs that they introduced a few version ago, and consolidates a few of the processes. I haven't seen any new features, or bugs, but I also run Synapse fairly stripped down (only the core process) so there might be more going on with the stat tracker or heat maps or some of the other frilly stuff that someone else can tell you about.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> It fixes some bugs that they introduced a few version ago, and consolidates a few of the processes. I haven't seen any new features, or bugs, but I also run Synapse fairly stripped down (only the core process) so there might be more going on with the stat tracker or heat maps or some of the other frilly stuff that someone else can tell you about.


Ah, I disable GameScanner and the Chroma SDK services as well. Thanks for the response.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> I exchanged it yesterday without any troubles. The lady was very friendly. Very happy with this mouse so far. Let's see what kind of durability it has. I had a Steelseries Rival (1st version) and after a year, after warranty expired, had issue with scroll wheel where when you scrolled down the webpage scrolled up.


Not uncommon at all, unfortunately. Just be careful for the uncut plastic on the buttom near the mousefeet area, it will destroy your mousepad in a short amount of time if you don't notice it.


----------



## frunction

$38 on Amazon again, maybe we'll see a new DeathAdder soon.


----------



## gunit2004

Decided to check out the Deathadder Chroma. Ended up returning it. Not a fan of the build quality.

Feet were very scratchy on my mouse pad at first but it went away. However, the rubber on the right side (which is essentially a thin rubber sticker) was already peeling off at the front of the mouse and kept prodding my pinky.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunit2004*
> 
> Decided to check out the Deathadder Chroma. Ended up returning it. Not a fan of the build quality.
> 
> Feet were very scratchy on my mouse pad at first but it went away. However, the rubber on the right side (which is essentially a thin rubber sticker) was already peeling off at the front of the mouse and kept prodding my pinky.


That's one of the most common flaws, is the side-grips falling off upon opening the box, and also the loose/bouncy mouse-wheel issue.


----------



## Sol9

Bulid quality on the DA is terrible. I had my old DA Chroma for 1 year side grips started to peel off. I just got a new one about a week ago it's fine so far but there is a hairline crack on one of the corners.


----------



## frunction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sol9*
> 
> Bulid quality on the DA is terrible >I had my old DA Chroma for 1 year side grips started to peel off. I just got a new one about a week ago it's fine so far but there is a hairline crack on one of the corners.


I hope in the new version they just go back to plain sides like they had in the Black Edition.


----------



## granitov

Find it quite funny they've used a black rubber paint over a _glossy_ surface on DA:BE. Peels just as fine, and not as easily fixable as rubber grips.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frunction*
> 
> I hope in the new version they just go back to plain sides like they had in the Black Edition.


This so much. I had no issues with peeling on that mouse. I wouldn't mind the side grips if they didn't get slippery for me. After glossy sides and the sides like the BE, I still find the rubber side grips to be the worst among them all. Hell, the XM-300 by GB has side grips that are vastly superior.


----------



## revoc

I think the "hairline crack" in the picture I posted on page 235 is normal. The new one I exchanged it for has it to. Looks like part of the mould...


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> I think the "hairline crack" in the picture I posted on page 235 is normal. The new one I exchanged it for has it to. Looks like part of the mould...



Ignore the dust. This is my 2 year old Chroma. Used for 8+ hours every single day. No chips or cracks. If your replacement looks like this (well, this but cleaner) then you're great. If not, return it and buy from somewhere else as your local store clearly has a bad batch.


----------



## revoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> 
> Ignore the dust. This is my 2 year old Chroma. Used for 8+ hours every single day. No chips or cracks. If your replacement looks like this (well, this but cleaner) then you're great. If not, return it and buy from somewhere else as your local store clearly has a bad batch.


My mouse is good. I'm keeping it. Your picture made my OCD kick in though. I want to dust it off with a duster and use a lens wipe to clean the surface, LOL.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> My mouse is good. I'm keeping it. Your picture made my OCD kick in though. I want to dust it off with a duster and use a lens wipe to clean the surface, LOL.


You and me both. I actually use a datavac and an alcohol drenched microfiber cloth on it daily, including just before that photo. Unfortunately my area is just so dusty that in the time it took to unlock my phone and open the camera app, that much dust had resettled. I suppose the camera flash didn't help, but ultimately I live in a asthma experimental research center and I am the unwitting sucker who signed up as the test subject.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero4549*
> 
> You and me both. I actually use a datavac and an alcohol drenched microfiber cloth on it daily, including just before that photo. Unfortunately my area is just so dusty that in the time it took to unlock my phone and open the camera app, that much dust had resettled. I suppose the camera flash didn't help, but ultimately I live in a asthma experimental research center and I am the unwitting sucker who signed up as the test subject.


The DataVac is the best $50 I've ever spent. Shouldn't you avoid using isopropyl alcohol on mice, since it can strip the coating?


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Shouldn't you avoid using isopropyl alcohol on mice, since it can strip the coating?


Generally it's safe for soft-touch and rubber, unsafe for bare paint. Unsure about glossy surface and bare plastic.


----------



## Bucake

it attacks some rubber coatings like some earlier razer / logitech products were using


----------



## granitov

Could be. But funnily enough when I've been cleaning the Sensei RAW shell with isopropyl alcohol the bare plastic has melted noticeably, while the soft-touch coated surface has been left unharmed. At first I was, like, 'where does all this black residue come from?'. That was a shame.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Shouldn't you avoid using isopropyl alcohol on mice, since it can strip the coating?


CORRECT.

Never use isopropyl on any plastic coating because of the risks involved. Remember there are thousands of recipes using a variety of ABS coatings so some will dissolve with certain chemicals when used.

Safest way to clean anything is soap and water, basically a hand cleanser type of liquid. It has to be gentle and be able to remove dried, dead skin particles off any plastic coating.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> CORRECT.
> 
> Never use isopropyl on any plastic coating because of the risks involved. Remember there are thousands of recipes using a variety of ABS coatings so some will dissolve with certain chemicals when used.
> 
> Safest way to clean anything is soap and water, basically a hand cleanser type of liquid. It has to be gentle and be able to remove dried, dead skin particles off any plastic coating.


Is there a specific soap to use, or chemical(s) to avoid? I use a damp rag now only, but before someone told me to stop using Isopropyl Alcohol on my Deathadder 2013 + the mousefeet on it, I would clean it weekly with 'Curad Alcohol Wipes', and surprisingly it never destroyed the coating or the mousefeet (no clue why I thought using Isopropyl Alcohol on mousefeet was a good idea







). I guess it did sort of wear down the texture and it didn't feel as 'gritty' after cleaning it repeatedly. Did the same with my old Zowie EC1-A and that never peeled either.

Even though I would never clean my peripherals with it again, I'm surprised it never destroyed anything of mine in the past


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Is there a specific soap to use, or chemical(s) to avoid?


I now use Mrs. Meyer's Liquid Hand Soap, Lemon Verbena is my favorite







.

All I do is squirt a little on a soft cotton rag mix it with a spray of water and then squash the rag together to get the soap and bubble action happening. Just wipe surfaces with it then use another clean, wet cotton rag to wipe off the soap.

Using this method I have cleaned all my mice and certain keyboards quite easily.


----------



## kyotkyotkyot

I have that in my bathroom! Awesome stuff.

Sidenote elrick...been looking for a cmstorm power rx mousepad and can only find 1. And its in Australia.

39.00 and just 99.00 for shipping. What kind of tragic irony is this..

Convict town 1
Kyot 0


----------



## dutC4

I tried Isopropyl on my Zowie AM-GS once and it seemed to melt the finish on the side buttons so I went back to using windex multisurface disinfectant.. I'm sure there's something better I could use but it seems to work well enough to me


----------



## agsz

For people with DeathAdder Chromas (since this didn't occur on any DeathAdder 2013 I had), in the image below where the cord goes into the mouse, does it feel loose and wobble quite easily without any force? I've noticed this on every DeathAdder Chroma so far, and leads to the mouse disconnecting at random when swiping usually.


----------



## pez

Not an issue on my 2013. Never had disconnecting issues on the Chroma that I gave away, either. Sounds like a bad batch or user-error.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyotkyotkyot*
> 
> Sidenote elrick...been looking for a cmstorm power rx mousepad and can only find 1. And its in Australia.
> 
> 39.00 and just 99.00 for shipping. What kind of tragic irony is this..
> 
> Convict town 1
> Kyot 0


Now you know how we feel when buying anything off ebay, from your Country







.

Surprised that neither Newegg or Amazon would have it in stock, maybe it's an out dated design so CM is preparing a new mousepad for release (guessing here).

It's up to you to bend over and prepare for the normal shipping rate raping, that we all here in Australia must endure when buying anything off the internet







.


----------



## Alya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> Now you know how we feel when buying anything off ebay, from your Country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Surprised that neither Newegg or Amazon would have it in stock, maybe it's an out dated design so CM is preparing a new mousepad for release (guessing here).
> 
> It's up to you to bend over and prepare for the normal shipping rate raping, that we all here in Australia must endure when buying anything off the internet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It's our turn now.


----------



## Curleyyy

I'm slowly going through the thread; would appreciate some quick answers!









I have:

Deathadder Black Edition - without any mods, drivers and firmware is latest.
Hyperglide Mouse Skates - with the stock ones removed.
Tracks at 1 CD but does NOT track at 2 CD's.

*1.)* I read that the 3G V2 tracked the best and people are using it's internals with other mice.

*2.)* What is it about the 3G V2 that tracked so well; is it just due to the processing of the data gathered? I noticed in OP's post it mentioned about the frequency of light it detected and you'll notice a red light underneath the mouse. The DA:BE that I have, has this red light underneath.

*3.)* All that needs to be done is a bit of plastic removal to get the 3G V2 internal to fit inside the DA:BE?

*4.)* Is the DA:BE its own version or is it a version of the 3.5G?

*5.)* Is it possible to swap the DA:BE braided cable for a non braided one?

*6.)* The DA:BE I have polls consistently at 999/1000/1001. If I swapped the internals to the 3G V2, how would this be affected?

*7.)* Are the buttons on the variations of the DA's the same or different?

*8.)* My scroll wheel acts up a lot, is there anything I can do to fix that?
_- I use scroll wheel to BHOP in CS:GO and occasionally it'll jump without my input.
- Sometimes in Chrome it'll over/under shoot my scroll or add an extra step / half scroll._

*9.)* The DA:BE is listed as 148 grams, for me that feels too heavy. What can I do?


----------



## granitov

Curleyyy,

1), 2). Personally I've never felt the 3G and the 3.5G are really much different in terms of tracking. The 3G has lower LoD, but, again, it could be due to the lens used (the 3.5G lens in the 3G gives a higher LoD for me). A user I've talked to on this matter (iirc it was Falkentyne) told me that the 3.5G has a fixed framerate, while the 3G behaves similarly to PMW3366 (has sleep states depending on idle time, moving speed and such). Don't rely on me on that matter, as both 3G and 3.5G are sufficient for me in terms of tracking and I haven't made a thorough research on this matter.

What's also different is that the lowest click latency that could be achieved on the 3G is ~3ms (fw 1.28, other have it set to ~8ms and ~13ms), while on the 3.5G it's ~8ms (it also has 13ms firmwares). In both cases setting it to low values could lead to double clicking, though.

3). Yes, it seems that you have to shave a plastic part or a PCB where the front of the wheel is. Hint: consider soldering the 3G sensor PCB to an existing 3.5G buttons PCB, would require no fitting.

4). Black Edition has its own firmware.

5). Yes, as it is with virtually any mouse.

6). With 1.28NDC firmware it's ~995...1005 Hz at full speed, could vary between firmares. A 500 Hz setting gives ~497...502 Hz values.

7). Early 3Gs have D2FC-F-7N as main buttons, later ones have Multicomp DM1. The 3G has DM1 (stiffer type) side buttons, the 3.5G has Kailh. Middle button is a standard square switch in the 3.5G, the 3G has a 3-pin type switch (unsure which label it is). On the 3.5G middle button is also positioned farther away from the wheel (the 3G wheel has a shorter shaft).

8). The main gripe about the wheel on all early Deathadders (I believe it also applies to all earlier Razer mice) is that it has no hysteresis coded into firmware, which means it has an explicit transition point between forward and back steps (you could catch it and wheel would literally spazz out going back and forth from any vibration; can't do that on Abby 14, for example).

You could partially avoid that by using an encoder with well-defined notches (such as ALPS), using AHK scripts, etc., but you can't completely cure it. I have no software skills, and a programmer asks around 100 bucks to hack and edit a firmware. Bit pricey for me, so I'm outta luck here.

9). 148 grams is cable included, it's 100-110 without it. You could try drilling some holes and doing some cutting on the middle section, but you'll win just 3-4 grams (tried that).


----------



## RTagg

Could you guys tell me the default dpi of the Deathadder Essential before driver installation/tweaks?

Thanks!


----------



## dmasteR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTagg*
> 
> Could you guys tell me the default dpi of the Deathadder Essential before driver installation/tweaks?
> 
> Thanks!


1800DPI if I remember correctly.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RTagg*
> 
> Could you guys tell me the default dpi of the Deathadder Essential before driver installation/tweaks?
> 
> Thanks!


1800


----------



## RTagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmasteR*
> 
> 1800DPI if I remember correctly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> 1800


Thanks!


----------



## bond10

Where's the Deathadder 10 year anniversary edition equipped with 3360 and full rubber coating and cable. Make it happen Razer!


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond10*
> 
> Where's the Deathadder 10 year anniversary edition equipped with 3360 and full rubber coating and cable. Make it happen Razer!


It's getting close to Christmas time, so I would bet they are working on something in the lab. No idea if they feel they need to re-up the DA at all cause you know, sales. Still though, with Logi(the only comp they probably feel they have) dropping direct DA competition, maybe they will push the DA out better than ever.

drop more weight
Separate buttons(this is not an issue to me personally)
Sensor to 3366(if they feel it matters)


----------



## m0uz

inb4 Razer Rival 500 copy


----------



## Bucake

3368 DA without side-buttons and good build quality! 100% chance


----------



## uaokkkkkkkk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> inb4 Razer Rival 500 copy


Razer back in 2010 maybe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> 3368 Diamondback with original styling and good build quality! 0% chance


I was about to say FTFY but when I got to the 100% chance part I laughed.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uaokkkkkkkk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m0uz*
> 
> inb4 Razer Rival 500 copy
> 
> 
> 
> Razer back in 2010 maybe.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> 3368 Diamondback with original styling and good build quality! 0% chance
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was about to say FTFY but when I got to the 100% chance part I laughed.
Click to expand...

Love this, TRUE 100% unadulterated OCN optimism, displayed to the World







.

Pity Razer seems to inspire such sentiment even during 2016.


----------



## m0uz

Funny price, this is









https://www.amazon.co.uk/Razer-Deathadder-Re-Spawn-3500DPI-Gaming/dp/B002RL9A2O/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1473956923&sr=8-47&keywords=gaming+mouse

(£38.88 as of this post)


----------



## ondoy

anyone having a double click issue on win 10 ?
no win 7 it's working fine.


----------



## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> anyone having a double click issue on win 10 ?
> no win 7 it's working fine.


Haven't had an issue at all on win 10.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> anyone having a double click issue on win 10 ?
> no win 7 it's working fine.


That's always been a hardware issue. I've been through 4 death adders because of that. I stopped using them since


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> That's always been a hardware issue. I've been through 4 death adders because of that. I stopped using them since


Did the plastic piece in-between the mouse 1 & the switch break? There's also a firmware update for double-click issues for DA 2013 & Chromas.


----------



## PeterMadachHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> anyone having a double click issue on win 10 ?
> no win 7 it's working fine.


you sure it only does that on win10? involuntary double clicks are almost always come from bad microswitches. you can swap them to new ones if you can solder or find someone who does it for you, just need to buy new microswitches, take out the old ones and solder in the new. i recommend the OMRON D2F-01F, it has longer lifetime and better clicking comfort than the D2FC-F-7N most "gaming" mice comes with.

and I have a question of my own: have anyone tried to use the scrollwheel from the 2013 (or later) editions in the 3G V2 variant? something like this. does it fit? does it work?


----------



## rexbinary

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> anyone having a double click issue on win 10 ?
> no win 7 it's working fine.


Yes big time with my Deathadder Chroma. I found the fix though. There is an unlisted firmware update that fixed it for me. Found it here:


----------



## GHADthc

Anybody attempted to make a Kinzuadder out of a Chroma RGB? I'm wondering what the PCB is like, and whether it will work or not, the red LED on my current Kinzuadder has come un-soldered and the pcb has been worked on too many times and I can no longer attach a new LED, so I'm just gonna start again, when I get the time.

Just wondered whether it might be worth my while to attempt it with a newer Deathadder?


----------



## Shiotcrock

Hey I never bought a Death Adder but I would like to try one out how many months of life can I expect to get off a Essential Deathadder?

Or is the Chroma better than the Essential?

Maybe if I use a regular mouse for regular Duty and swith to the Razer Deathadder when I game only.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiotcrock*
> 
> Hey I never bought a Death Adder but I would like to try one out how many months of life can I expect to get off a Essential Deathadder?
> 
> Or is the Chroma better than the Essential?
> 
> Maybe if I use a regular mouse for regular Duty and swith to the Razer Deathadder when I game only.


Do you typically count mouse lifespan in months or are you just freaked out by the vocal minority of neanderthals who do? Your answer to that question should also answer your own.


Spoiler: Here be dragons... I mean rants



My Chroma is nearly a year old, used daily for 8+ hours a day. Not a single issue.

The other 3 Deathadders (3G, 3GV2, and BE) all also still work, and were each retired after many years of constant use not because they broke, but because I upgraded into newer models

My heavyhanded GF who managed to break 3 cellphones in a year is still using her nearly 3 year old BE. The only issue she has ever had with it was the backwards scrolling issue that is common to all mice that use mechanical wheel encoders due to getting too dirty (in this case because she lets her pet bird play with the mouse), and I was able to fix that in 5 min with some electrical contact cleaner and a tiny bit of knowledge.

In fact, I've never had a single mouse break on me. Not one, from any brand, not even the generic unbranded dollar store mice that came with prebuilt systems or the dinky discount wireless mice I use on the go for laptops. I still have functional mice with PS/2 connections and serial ports knocking around in a box in the closet.

If your mouse only lasts a few months, it is probably a rare case of a defective mouse. Mice, like any mass produced product, have occasional defective units. Just send it back and get a replacement.

If _all_ your mice break, it is because _you_ break them. Perhaps put down the cheetos, wash your hands, and stop trying to play basketball with your input devices.


----------



## Shiotcrock

I really want to try one out but just don't want to be burned that is all as long as I stay away from the Fake ones.


----------



## doza

just gave up on my 3-4 year old g700 crap of a mouse and bought croma,mouse is working flawless,it will take time to get use to it but that is expected.Went in battlefield 1 and as soon as i started to play i felt no mouse acceleration on croma,g700 was killing me in fps games, it was impossible to play with it.


----------



## Iceman2733

After reading thru this thread and a few other reviews I decided to finally get rid of my Roccat Tyon mouse and glad I did. I got the Deathadder Chroma and love the mouse a lot better than the Tyon mouse. I wish it did have one extra button the side nice for a Reload, Nade, Melee combo for the mouse hand.


----------



## pez

Saw that they had a 'DeathAdder Classic' on the official store and the previously mentioned 'Essential' on Amazon. Was really hoping that meant one would be sans-side grips for old-time's sake







.


----------



## Maximillion

lol, forgot about the DA Classic. Probably the most irrelevant mouse they've ever "come up" with (which is saying something for Razer).

They literally released a single-color Deathadder well AFTER the Chroma was out.

For perspective, imagine Logitech releasing the G502 Proteus Core AFTER the Proteus Spectrum.


----------



## arandomguy

So Deathadder Chroma vs Deathadder 2013/Essential. Aside from the RGB lighting is the only difference in the sensor? That the Chroma has higher DPI via interpolation?

$13 price difference.


----------



## pez

The essential is $33 on Amazon and looks to just be a DA 2013. If that's truly the case, I see no reason to not go with it unless you want RGB/Chroma lighting.


----------



## SmashTV

I threw packing tape in the side of my 2013 and boy oh boy is grip substantially improved. I can use it for more than a week now.


----------



## Aytex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arandomguy*
> 
> So Deathadder Chroma vs Deathadder 2013/Essential. Aside from the RGB lighting is the only difference in the sensor? That the Chroma has higher DPI via interpolation?
> 
> $13 price difference.


God don't buy the Chroma, it looks good but its prone to so many issues, Im on my 3rd DA Chroma after 2 RMA's

Go for the 2013


----------



## obikenobi27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aytex*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *arandomguy*
> 
> So Deathadder Chroma vs Deathadder 2013/Essential. Aside from the RGB lighting is the only difference in the sensor? That the Chroma has higher DPI via interpolation?
> 
> $13 price difference.
> 
> 
> 
> God don't buy the Chroma, it looks good but its prone to so many issues, Im on my 3rd DA Chroma after 2 RMA's
> 
> Go for the 2013
Click to expand...

I haven't had a problem... What did you RMA for?


----------



## Aytex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *obikenobi27*
> 
> I haven't had a problem... What did you RMA for?


Both for double click issue


----------



## Tarinth

I had double klick issues with my Chroma after one year of use...
The only DA i can recommend and you can still get new is the 3.5G.


----------



## jorj02

i just realized that Razer Elite is Usbport.sys DPC hog i go back to my old g403 the usbport.sys beeter then this crap mouse


----------



## jorj02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorj02*
> 
> i just realized that Razer Elite is Usbport.sys DPC hog i go back to my old g403 the usbport.sys beeter then this crap mouse


update move the mouse fast right-left


----------



## jorj02

found fix for that hog latency i think its the buttons on mouse should disable its add a lot usb ports on mouse



disable those 4 and unplug/replug the mouse boom latency Fixed enjoy all







but still sensor smoothing killing me xD


----------



## m0uz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorj02*
> 
> but still sensor smoothing killing me xD


It's already been said that the DA Elite has very little smoothing under 1800cpi. Possibly the same 2 frames as the 3360 <=2000


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tarinth*
> 
> I had double klick issues with my Chroma after one year of use...
> The only DA i can recommend and you can still get new is the 3.5G.


Where can you reliably get a legitimate/authentic 3.5G from? I REALLY miss my BE/3.5G.


----------



## Melan

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Razer-Deathadder-3-5G-3500-DPI-Gaming-Mouse-100-NEW-/121527314772?hash=item1c4b97a954


----------



## pez

Generic eBay link? I know there are illegitimate versions of this mouse...was looking more to be directed to a reputable seller.


----------



## Melan

It is a reputable seller.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> It is a reputable seller.


Ah, the first link was just taking me to the main page







.

Also, oh crap! I JUST bought some mouse feet via takasta. I had no clue he sold these. Big thanks for showing me this







.


----------



## Tarinth

Jup, got mine from takasta and can confirm it's not a fake.


----------



## dongdongdongs

Think I PMed you, but I have a single 3.5G that needs new feet and I'm happy to sell it.

I can take pictures of it, or honestly you can paypal me when you get it. Selling rarity mice is a pain in the ass, if you run away with it, whatever (you're a jerk, but whatever).


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dongdongdongs*
> 
> Think I PMed you, but I have a single 3.5G that needs new feet and I'm happy to sell it.
> 
> I can take pictures of it, or honestly you can paypal me when you get it. Selling rarity mice is a pain in the ass, if you run away with it, whatever (you're a jerk, but whatever).


Was this meant for me?


----------



## dongdongdongs

Yeah.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dongdongdongs*
> 
> Yeah.


Ah, I didn't get a PM, but funds are somewhat tight (well not trying to frivolously spend) while I'm in the process of moving. I might have a budget for this later in the month. I do appreciate the offer







.


----------



## revoc

I accidentally dropped my Chroma and now I can't remember. When you shake the mouse, is it normal to hear the mouse wheel rattle? Also, when I tap the mouse wheel with my index finger, I can feel it rattle a little bit.


----------



## Maximillion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revoc*
> 
> I accidentally dropped my Chroma and now I can't remember.


Well, just imagine how the mouse feels.

But on a serious note some minimal rattle or "looseness" (a bit of play side-to-side) is fairly common with a lot of wheels. I wouldn't sweat it too much as long as it's still functional. My G403 does the same.


----------



## revoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximillion*
> 
> Well, just imagine how the mouse feels.
> 
> But on a serious note some minimal rattle or "looseness" (a bit of play side-to-side) is fairly common with a lot of wheels. I wouldn't sweat it too much as long as it's still functional. My G403 does the same.


Nice word play. Just needed some peace of mind. Thanks!


----------



## karod

One question about my DA 2013.
I have double click issues but sporadically.

The design of the part of the top shell that presses on the microswitch is different on M1 and M2.

On M2 it is a square, flat surface. But on M1, at least on my DA 2013 it is like a flat head screw driver tip. But that tip also has a groove in it like on the bracket sign ]
Does the groove produce the double click?
Is the groove there from the beginning? Or did it wear down and formed that groove.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> One question about my DA 2013.
> I have double click issues but sporadically.
> 
> The design of the part of the top shell that presses on the microswitch is different on M1 and M2.
> 
> On M2 it is a square, flat surface. But on M1, at least on my DA 2013 it is like a flat head screw driver tip. But that tip also has a groove in it like on the bracket sign ]
> Does the groove produce the double click?
> Is the groove there from the beginning? Or did it wear down and formed that groove.


It's most likely from a dirty micro switch. If you can (and haven't already), get a can of air (hopefully that's a thing in Germany) and point the straw under the affected button and give it a few good bursts. This might resolve it, though temporarily, usually.

If not, it would require you to open up and clean with an electronics cleaner. The mouse is super easy to disassemble, but it's hard not to ruin the stock feet while doing so.


----------



## granitov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Is the groove there from the beginning? Or did it wear down and formed that groove.


Shave off the piece that has that groove and glue a thin square piece of rigid plastic in place of it. Quite a few "gaming" mice with such a button (more specifically lever) design. We're talking about manufacturers making their mice prone to wear deliberately.

Still, no - while these wear traces make pressing the buttons more difficult they don't cause double clicking by themselves. Solution is covered by the post above mine; you might also want to replace the switch completely via soldering.


----------



## karod

Ok, so I already had it opemed some weeks ago to clean it inside. The mouse wheel had a lot of travel/play between the notches. I removed some hair and bend the metal part of the encode a bit inwards, now the wheel works great again.

The housing of the M1switch seemed to be a little more wiggly than that of M2.

I don't really want to open the switch itself, since I did that on my old DA 1800 or was it the respawn? I didn't get the spring back in place inside the switch. And gave up.

I have look in the basement/cellar if we have compressed air or contact cleaner. (we had once, but don't know if we restocked).

Concerning the stock feet. The can be removed without problem with a thin sharp knife, even a Victorinox Cadet worked.


----------



## karod

i don't know if it is supposed to be like that, but here you can maybe see what I am talking about. The platic piece is shaped like a cross but the surface is not even.


----------



## karod

*EDIT: I don't want to jinx it, but it seems to work without double clicks now!! Yeay.*

So I opened the switch housing but the contact and spring was clean.
It was a hassle to get the spring back in place. But after 20 min I got it.

Interestingly, the spring was bent on one side. I don't know if it happened when opening the switch, or if it had been before.
I removed that bend and after closing the switch the switch housing fits tighter than before and doesn't wiggle anymore.

Let's see if the culprit was that bent part.


----------



## pez

That's pretty awesome!







. Since it was a bit intermittent prior, hopefully it is actually fixed. Keep us updated







.


----------



## Ipak

Hi, I'm proud user of first gen DA, now 11y old. It had double click issue after 6y, but it stops after few months. Its possible that it stops after firmware update and synapse driver.
Unfortunate now it started not register clicks at all. I will try to clean the switch.
If it won't help I definitely buy another DA


----------



## karod

It seems to be true, after one day of usage not a single appearance of double-clicking.

I may report again in a couple of days.


----------



## Bucake

first gen DA best gen DA
don't give up on it son

clean the switch, scratch the contacts, bend or straighten the leaf. otherwise, replace the switch entirely


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> first gen DA best gen DA
> don't give up on it son
> 
> clean the switch, scratch the contacts, bend or straighten the leaf. otherwise, replace the switch entirely


Listen to Bukkie here, that 1st Gen is worth a lot now considering it's quality and outstanding longevity.

Razer no longer makes anything that will last past two years, so your model is worth keeping forever. Don't let some tosser here on this forum convince you to sell it to them, once lost you won't find another ever again.

Telling you the truth before some scum bag decides to target you in a scam swap or what not







.


----------



## karod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> It seems to be true, after one day of usage not a single appearance of double-clicking.
> 
> I may report again in a couple of days.


Final report, after over 1 week I can definitely say that I fixed the double clicking issue. Great


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karod*
> 
> Final report, after over 1 week I can definitely say that I fixed the double clicking issue. Great


That's awesome to hear. You should post some pics of the mouse as it is now to make all of the non-OG DA users green with envy







. (or should I saw blue?







)


----------



## Strafie

Can i put internals of 3.5g to 2013?


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strafie*
> 
> Can i put internals of 3.5g to 2013?


Not without physically modifying the casing. It doesn't have the same internal layout as previous models.


----------



## Strafie

Much thanks Zero. I consider buying 3.5g. Does it shell has decent grip? Glossy sides, I mean.


----------



## Zero4549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strafie*
> 
> Much thanks Zero. I consider buying 3.5g. Does it shell has decent grip? Glossy sides, I mean.


The original 3.5 is glossy sides and lightly rubberized top. The Black Edition is lightly rubberized top and sides. The 3.5 special editions (transformers, esports teams, etc) are either glossy side rubber top or all glossy depending on the model (most are all glossy).

Whether that is good or bad depends on your personal preference. Personally, I've been able to use all models with good success, but some had different care requirements than others to keep in the optimal condition.


----------



## MaTpr0F

Hi Everyone!

I was wondering after the 3.5G have all of the deathadders lost their "normal" on-board memory?


----------



## karod

Since my DA2013 can store lighting settings after uninstalling Synapse, I guess that at least the DA2013 still stores settings in the mouse.


----------



## MaTpr0F

Can you check for me if it can store some basic key combos? 2 keys at max. Would be much appreciated!


----------



## Bucake

i wouldn't call 3.5g memory "normal on-board". what did it save again? only cpi iirc? maybe polling rate as well.
the profile switch button is useless without the software installed and the lighting will turn back on after uninstalling software + unplugging the mouse. (let alone macros.)

edit: sorry for pointless post. high five!


----------



## deadscreem

Is there any detailed sensor info (regarding smoothing etc) and mousetester plots for the older DAs? I found a thread with info for the new DA Elite but nothing older.


----------



## Bucake

http://www.overclock.net/t/1563813/somewhat-objectively-evaluating-sensor-responsiveness/380#post_24401212
http://www.overclock.net/t/1563813/somewhat-objectively-evaluating-sensor-responsiveness/240#post_24332243
http://www.overclock.net/t/1554228/visualizing-smoothing-in-mousetester/10#post_24192776

da chroma should be the same (as da2013).
da 3.5g and 3g shouldn't have smoothing, i don't think hardware averaging was a thing yet back then. they have other quirks though.


----------



## deadscreem

No wonder I couldn't find anything, they were listed from the evga torq x5! thanks.


----------



## SmashTV

Any reputable seller for the Transformers edition? Looking for one as a gift to someone else.


----------



## Ipak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ipak*
> 
> Hi, I'm proud user of first gen DA, now 11y old. It had double click issue after 6y, but it stops after few months. Its possible that it stops after firmware update and synapse driver.
> Unfortunate now it started not register clicks at all. I will try to clean the switch.
> If it won't help I definitely buy another DA


I manage to still use the mouse, by clicking button little sideways. It wasn't very comfortable to use this way, but it works. Anyway, i took mouse apart to check switches. What was surprising that switches worked better when pressing them just with finger/nails, making nice audible click.

Problem happens to be the bottom part of buttons that presses switch, all of them have this very noticeable dent in middle. File them off flat and done! Working like new!









This also could be a cause of double click.


----------



## Bucake

imo it's better to "fill" the dent


----------



## granitov

File the plunger part that is used to actuate the switch 'til it's flat (having its height measured beforehand) and stick some solid piece of plastic or whatever onto it. You're gonna like it, just have to fiddle with that piece's dimensions.


----------



## badben25

Can someone here please help me with finding firmware 2.33 and legacy driver 3.03 for the Deathadder 3.5G?
The Razer website does not provide any firmware updaters and only has 3.05 legacy driver.

I don't want to google and download from an 'unknown' site, so I am hoping someone here has the official files from the Razer website.

Help?
@uaokkkkkkkk
@Falkentyne
@qsxcv
@Alya


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## Bucake

http://s000.tinyupload.com/download.php?file_id=52735778903316827214&t=5273577890331682721445238

if tinyupload and .zip are ok with you, then there you go
it was too big to upload to ocn directly


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## Sol9

Anyone know what sensor the DA PC bang edition uses?


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## granitov

It's s3668, but you should note that the MCU behaves differently (from the default 3G version). Search through the thread.


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## Sol9

Thanks, sorry i mostly just lurk.
Seems like it has max tracking issues.


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## granitov

I've seen a post where the poster claims their PCBang edition tracks as well as the original (at 3+m/s max speed), but I can't verify. Asian market is pretty obscure, and the ones that I've got my hands on were no good.


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## badben25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> http://s000.tinyupload.com/download.php?file_id=52735778903316827214&t=5273577890331682721445238
> 
> if tinyupload and .zip are ok with you, then there you go
> it was too big to upload to ocn directly


Thanks a bunch dude!


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## 86JR

I had a deathadder many years ago.

I found one of those white intellimouse explorers is better... and Zowie FK2 is better than both of them. Been rocking the zowie since release, still ez mode.


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## sandywind

Is the latest version of Synapse still worsening the performance of the Deathadder 3.5g?

I would hope it acted as a "pass-through" function at the native steps of 1800 an 3500 DPI. And that the processing at 900 DPI is fast enough to cause minimal problems, as it is basically a /2 divisor.


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## czin125

Deathadder Elite default settings?

Does anyone know what the default settings are before installing any drivers?

What's the default Hz
Default DPI?
Is mouse accel off by default?


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## Klopfer

500Hz
800,1800,4500,9000,16000 dpi
Mouseaccel off


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## PhiZaRoaH

Who else is still running with a 3.5G Black edition or prior? Lol


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## Bucake

DA left-handed has been my main for a good while now, and for right-handed i will still take a da3g or a da black edition out


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## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> DA left-handed has been my main for a good while now, and for right-handed i will still take a da3g or a da black edition out


A real 3G DA is rough to find, saw a transformer one on Amazon for $99. I said nahhhhhh. Lol


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## senileoldman

The 3.5G's sensor feels better than the 3G's one. Don't know why people say otherwise.

The 3.5G sort of reacts faster to tiny movements, just like the G400, compared to other sensors.

I actually think it's the best sensor around. Didn't like Roccat's 3360; didn't like Zowie's sensors, except for maybe the FK's, which I guess is placebo because of the shape; didn't like the MTL04; didn't like Ninox Aurora's sensor.

I used all of them, except for the MTL04 and Aurora, at 1800 dpi.

Donkeys cursores, my frrrrrrriends.










I also didn't like Logitech's 3366


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## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senileoldman*
> 
> The 3.5G's sensor feels better than the 3G's one. Don't know why people say otherwise.
> 
> The 3.5G sort of reacts faster to tiny movements, just like the G400, compared to other sensors.
> 
> I actually think it's the best sensor around. Didn't like Roccat's 3360; didn't like Zowie's sensors, except for maybe the FK's, which I guess is placebo because of the shape; didn't like the MTL04; didn't like Ninox Aurora's sensor.
> 
> I used all of them, except for the MTL04 and Aurora, at 1800 dpi.
> 
> Donkeys cursores, my frrrrrrriends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also didn't like Logitech's 3366


What do you use your 3.5g at??(dpi)


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## senileoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> What do you use your 3.5g at??(dpi)


I use all of my mice at 1800 dpi.

I'm currently using a WMO, because I love the shape, but I'm thinking about changing the sensor (400 dpi is too low for me) and make a WMOadder, or buy a 3360 and a Teensy.


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## pez

I actually really miss my black edition DA. Maybe I'll work on modding my DA: Elite side grips to better suit me.


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## PhiZaRoaH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I actually really miss my black edition DA. Maybe I'll work on modding my DA: Elite side grips to better suit me.


Still running with mine. Hard to let go of her. Been darn good. Still my GOAT mouse.


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## Bucake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhiZaRoaH*
> 
> A real 3G DA is rough to find, saw a transformer one on Amazon for $99. I said nahhhhhh. Lol


Unless I remember incorrectly, the transformer DA is a 3.5g. are there "fake 3g" deathadders, though? i was under the impression that it was the 3.5 that was so massively copied.

when i still had the time i was looking for 3g deathadders multiple times a week, i was desperate to find one in good shape.
i did get a handful over time, but most were double clicking and or/had destroyed coating.
i still have one or two in nice shape, i really really love that coating.

the black edition is also pretty nice imo. no disco light as a bonus, and incredibly comfortable coating (on the sides, too!)
i went all midlife-crisis on it when i found a source of NIB ones, i got four of them.
myeah, four...


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## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bucake*
> 
> Unless I remember incorrectly, the transformer DA is a 3.5g. are there "fake 3g" deathadders, though? i was under the impression that it was the 3.5 that was so massively copied.
> 
> when i still had the time i was looking for 3g deathadders multiple times a week, i was desperate to find one in good shape.
> i did get a handful over time, but most were double clicking and or/had destroyed coating.
> i still have one or two in nice shape, i really really love that coating.
> 
> the black edition is also pretty nice imo. no disco light as a bonus, and incredibly comfortable coating (on the sides, too!)
> i went all midlife-crisis on it when i found a source of NIB ones, i got four of them.
> myeah, four...


So like...you trynna sell one of those BEs?


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## sandywind

My Deathadder 3.5G is configured in Synapse for 800DPI on my laptop, but the perceived DPI value on my external 4K monitor is much higher, about twice as much, whereas on the laptop FullHD monitor the resolution is correct. Could there be a setting somewhere that doubles the mouse DPI for the external monitor?


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## DarthBaggins

Just picked up a DA Chroma (Black Ops III Ed), so far like the weight and feel. Now I just need to test it in games and see how I like it (Normally a EC1-A/G403/Flick G1 User)


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