# [Official] ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 Owners Thread/Club



## garikfox

Here are a few reviews below

http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/zardon/asus-sabertooth-z77-motherboard-review-with-oc-gtx680/

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/04/20/asus_sabertooth_z77_lga_1155_motherboard_review/

http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-sabertooth-z77-review/1

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/motherboards/18247-asus-z77-sabertooth-tuf-intel-lga1155-motherboard-review


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## garikfox

I was wondering if anyone else has a "Disk" error in event viewer after installing the Intel USB 3.0 drivers then once restarted plugged in a USB 3.0 external data drive.

Seems to fire one error after plugging it in, then im not getting anymore errors from the disk, Hopefully its just the Intel USB 3.0 drivers reconfigureing the drive for first time use or something.

Update:
I just ran ATTO three times on the external USB 3.0 data drive hooked up to the Intel USB 3.0 port and got no "Disk" errors in event viewer so Im good, It's what I thought it was a first time driver initialization error.


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## mordocai rp

im looking to buy one of these but want to read some reviews first. And sell my old gigabyte on ofc lol


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## level3tjg

no complaints from me so far... just built new rig on this board yesterday. Seems to be working great and looks sweet!


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## Dousand Thollars

Buying one of these very soon, I'll be right back


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## stevierg

Mine is sitting in my Haf X, with my new Corsair H100 hanging, ready for my 3770k.... now where are you Intel.... Hurry up!


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## staryoshi

I'll have thoughts and pictures as soon as I get my hands on an i7 3770k







That said, we already have an official Sabertooth club... It just needs to be updated with the Z77 model







http://www.overclock.net/t/854493/official-asus-sabertooth-motherboards-club-tuf-series/0_20


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## Starlo77

Hi, this is my first post, but I had the same issue after upgrading from a P67A GIGABYTE board. Ended up installing a fresh windows7 system on a new drive and all was ok. Pretty sure it would have been a driver issue with the new USB 3.0, but all is good now.

On a side note, I've got a 2600k installed currently on my z77 sabertooth, does anyone know what type of ivy bridge CPU would be a better


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlo77*
> 
> Hi, this is my first post, but I had the same issue after upgrading from a P67A GIGABYTE board. Ended up installing a fresh windows7 system on a new drive and all was ok. Pretty sure it would have been a driver issue with the new USB 3.0, but all is good now.
> On a side note, I've got a 2600k installed currently on my z77 sabertooth, does anyone know what type of ivy bridge CPU would be a better


So you too got a "Disk" error in event viewer after installing the Intel USB 3.0 driver ?

P.S: I just ran ATTO three times on the external USB 3.0 data drive hooked up to the Intel USB 3.0 port and got no "Disk" errors in event viewer so Im good, It's what I thought it was a first time driver initialization error.


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## motokill36

If my P67 Sabertooth would hurry up and brake
i could buy new one


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## Abovethelaw

I love mine.

Some current issues:
Sometimes case fans will spin at the minimum set RPMs in the user-defined curve until I open the tool and click apply again. For some reason they default to 60% if 60% is the minimum I have set instead of spinning at 70% based on the temp sensors chosen for example. I'd imagine a BIOS change can rectify this. I've contacted ASUS.
My SATA6G and USB3 sensors run pretty hot, up to 50-55C at times (during gaming). I believe this is due to my GPU. I wonder what a safe operating temp for those chips is? 75C is a pretty standard min for chips like that so that's what I'm assuming.

Everything else is fantastic, and I have no other issues. Great board!


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## level3tjg

Had it installed a few days now... 2700k @ 5.0 Ghz stable. Looking sweet in my case too!


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## garikfox

Yeah indeed thats nice, and a 680 aswell, sweet setup


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## phlogiston

How is the fan noise? Also, does theSabertooth z77 come with the fan xpert software? Thank you.


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## garikfox

I cant hear the two 35mm fans at all, very silent

Yeah im pretty sure the Fan Xpert software is on the included disc, I dont use it so i really didnt check


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## Robilar

Where does the second fan go? I can see the first one just below the cpu.


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Where does the second fan go? I can see the first one just below the cpu.


Here ya go


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## McDown

Still deciding if I want to keep it...


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## level3tjg

That looks freaking sick. Kudos to you!


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## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *level3tjg*
> 
> That looks freaking sick. Kudos to you!


Thanks








But I love my Maximus too


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## FishCommander

How are you owners liking your mobo? I have been stuck between this and the "high end" MSI and Gigabyte for a while now, the only reason I don't pull the trigger on it is the price. I can afford it but looking for a good deal more than anything.


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## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Still deciding if I want to keep it...


i want my rig to look like that... minus the sleeving colors and case lol. Looks amazing mcdown
edit; isnt that cpu block gone now? or is it clear with red water


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## 1010001011001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Still deciding if I want to keep it...


Oh that just looks sooo sweet.
What waterblock are you using?


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## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1010001011001*
> 
> Oh that just looks sooo sweet.
> What waterblock are you using?


EK Supreme-HF v1.2 Red Classified limited edition. I don't think they make it anymore.


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## garikfox

BIOS 1009 , Posted 4/20/2012, It's not on there official servers yet though

SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1009.zip 4210k .zip file


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## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> EK Supreme-HF v1.2 Red Classified limited edition. I don't think they make it anymore.


they dont, how much did you pay for it?


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## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> they dont, how much did you pay for it?


If you have the actual v1.2 revision block you can get the top directly from EK.


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## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> If you have the actual v1.2 revision block you can get the top directly from EK.


oh wow thats 40euros for shipping and total, quite a lot. Theres an actual block up on ebay for 100$ free shipping so i just wanted an estimate of what you paid for it. A new waterblock just for aesthetics is last on my list :/


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## nova_prime

is this worth it compared to the P67...?


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## garikfox

I'd just stay with the Sabertooth P67 if you dont want Ivy Bridge


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## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> I'd just stay with the Sabertooth P67 if you dont want Ivy Bridge


whats the advantage of 77 vs 67? I have an i5 2500k and am not getting ivy bridge


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> whats the advantage of 77 vs 67? I have an i5 2500k and am not getting ivy bridge


Intel USB 3.0

PCIe 3.0 (only with a Ivy Bridge CPU)

Lucid Virtu MVP


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## Robilar

Z68 has USB 3.0 as well as PCI 3.0 (at least the Gen 3 boards do). It's not unique to Z77


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## staryoshi

The Z77 chipset provides 2 to 4 of the USB3 ports. For example, my ASRock P67 Extreme4 uses Etron EJ168A USB3. Personally, I prefer Intel chipsets for most features









But as for PCIE 3.0, that comes with Ivy Bridge CPUs and is supported by some P67/Z68 boards, so that feature is not Z77-specific.


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## garikfox

I had to return my SABERTOOTH Z77

Not sure if it was a hardare level problem or BIOS but the USB 2.0 ports on this board are buggy, When i did a re-install of Win7 i popped the disc in and restarted from the Disc and the windows installation screen appears but the keybaord woudlnt work, The keyboard is lit up and getting power but it wasnt working at all. So I restarted and tried again and it worked, Restarted to try it again and it didnt work.

So the USB 2.0 ports (top 4 in my case) on this baord something is wrong with them, Hopefully a BIOS update could fix this issue.


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## mordocai rp

so if i have a z68 board its pointless to upgrade?


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## Robilar

Pretty much. If you are planning to go with a new 1155 Ivy Bridge chip, make sure the Z68 board you buy has a bios update available to support the chip.


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## mordocai rp

last question then, can i use the thermal armour for other mobos if it fits? I absolutely love the look of it and it is one the major incentives me wanting one lol


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## Robilar

No. the thermal armor matches up with fan mounts and mounting points for the armor itself. I doubt there is any way it would easily fit on another board.


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## level3tjg

Garikfox, I had a similar issue with my usb ports. I just updated the usb drivers from ASUS website and all is well.


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## og4tcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Still deciding if I want to keep it...


Extremely jealous of that case job! Looks gorgeous! I wish mine looked half as good.







I need to find a better way to run my cables. Maybe even do a water set up... I'm all about the clean look of the inside of the case... besides, I want to have it glowing blue like it's supposed to and lookin good


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *level3tjg*
> 
> Garikfox, I had a similar issue with my usb ports. I just updated the usb drivers from ASUS website and all is well.


It was at the hardware level, i.e: when I boot the Win7 Disc to install windows sometimes my keybaord wouldnt work at all, It was powered up but just didnt work, I restarted the computer booted off the Disc once again then it worked, very weird, heh

I just took it back and replaced my i5 2500K with a i7 2700K, Since I already had a P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 I really didnt need the Z77 board.


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## FishCommander

Sorry to hear your leaving us garikfox







my board should arrive Monday sometime, hope I don't have similar issues


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## og4tcm

The only problem I'm having so far (haven't begun OC'ing), is that my computer won't shutdown properly. All USB devices shut off, but the fans and case are still going. But I don't think it's a mobo issue, trying to find a solution currently.


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> Sorry to hear your leaving us garikfox
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my board should arrive Monday sometime, hope I don't have similar issues


I'm not leaving, I'm staying hehee


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> The only problem I'm having so far (haven't begun OC'ing), is that my computer won't shutdown properly. All USB devices shut off, but the fans and case are still going. But I don't think it's a mobo issue, trying to find a solution currently.


By default the BIOS sets the fans to run 1min after you shutdown the computer, It's called "Fan Overtime", It's located in the Monitor section of the BIOS.

Could this be what your seeing ?


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## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> By default the BIOS sets the fans to run 1min after you shutdown the computer, It's called "Fan Overtime", It's located in the Monitor section of the BIOS.
> Could this be what your seeing ?


I love that feature, erminds me of Enermax PSU back in the day, when you shut down your system, fans still spins to cool more.

Question? The small fans used, no one mentioned if you can hear them in a quiet system.


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I love that feature, erminds me of Enermax PSU back in the day, when you shut down your system, fans still spins to cool more.
> Question? The small fans used, no one mentioned if you can hear them in a quiet system.


I couldnt hear them on the Sabertooth I had, They were going fast too 4k RPM's heh


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## tboerdijk

I thought the Z77 Sabertooth was also going to get the Fan Xpert 2 software, but I can't find it :S


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## Majin SSJ Eric

I still love the look of my P67 Sabertooth and the Z77 looks even better! Sweet board!


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## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I love that feature, erminds me of Enermax PSU back in the day, when you shut down your system, fans still spins to cool more.
> Question? The small fans used, no one mentioned if you can hear them in a quiet system.


I won't be setting up my Sabertooth until Wednesday or so after the CPU arrives. However, I did run one in an open air environment at 9V and they were not silent, but not obtrusive either. I think at 7V they would be near-silent (Not sure how that will translate to straight RPMs) I'm going to use both of my fans at near minimum RPM just to add a tiny bit of airflow to the ecosystem, even though they are unnecessary.


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## Costfree

Mine just came in from the egg. Haven't put it together yet since I am still waiting on IVY. This thing looks sweeeet tho!


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## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tboerdijk*
> 
> I thought the Z77 Sabertooth was also going to get the Fan Xpert 2 software, but I can't find it :S


Your are correct, its not in the software package.
You should be able to download from the other mobo and install only the FanExpert II only.


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## Sujeto 1

Any body please tell me, what advantage has this motherboard vs a more cheap Z77 WIFI Gigabyte for example? i mean Gigabyte has WIFI this doesnt, and i dont think this motherboard manage a better overclock or i'm wrong?


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## Robilar

Worth reading this review

http://m.hardocp.com/article/2012/04/20/asus_sabertooth_z77_lga_1155_motherboard_review/

It convinced me to buy the board.

Also, the board is not overly expensive. I paid $225 for it.

The UDH5 (non Wi-Fi) is only about $25 cheaper. I've lost a lot of faith in Gigabyte after the X79 board I tested died horribly...


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## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Worth reading this review
> http://m.hardocp.com/article/2012/04/20/asus_sabertooth_z77_lga_1155_motherboard_review/
> It convinced me to buy the board.
> Also, the board is not overly expensive. I paid $225 for it.
> The UDH5 (non Wi-Fi) is only about $25 cheaper. I've lost a lot of faith in Gigabyte after the X79 board I tested died horribly...


well ok let's say non Gigabyte, so what about a ASUS Z77 PRO is about the same price than Sabertooth, but i think it has a bunch of stuff more than sabertooth, sabertooth just have that thermal armor, which im not tottally sure, i read about a problem of sabertooth with less temps with thermal armor taked off, plus ASUS z77 pro has wifi also.


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Let's be clear, if you are buying the Sabertooth you are buying it for the looks and the warranty (e.g. TUF components). If you want a bang for the buck board the Sabertooth isn't it. You don't like the Thermal Armor definitely get something else...


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## Sujeto 1

im not saying i don't like thermal armore, actually it looks beautifull and TUF and Protection against dust is the special feature that i will like to take since i live in a very dusty region of my country, I clean my current pc year by year and is always FULL of dust and that's why it tend to get high temperatures, however i would'nt like take a motherboard with temperature problems or fault of features just because it say sabertooth.


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## MoYu

i just bought the sabertooth z77 myself and havent installed it in my pc yet. But im just wondering whether or not even if im using this motherboard, ill still need to buy a fan controller


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## saberkick

Hi everybody, I'm a happy owner of a Sabertooth Z77. I have a question though to all of you who have this board. I'd like to know the temps you get on the VCore sensor with thermal radar ?

Cause right now my 2500k is oc at 2,5Ghz / 1,26Vcore, and in load (prime95) my VCore sensor gets to a bit above 50C. And when I put a more extreme set up like my cpu to 5chz with 1,45Vcore, the Vcore goes above 60C, and I wonder if that's ok at all.

I have the 2 little fans installed like recommended by Asus, my case is a pretty well ventilated Lancool K63, and my cpu cooler is a Silver Arrow pointing upward.

Thanks a lot.


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## tboerdijk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Your are correct, its not in the software package.
> You should be able to download from the other mobo and install only the FanExpert II only.


Thanks, that helped a lot! It's way better than the fan control in the Thermal Radar.
I also thought there would be an Auto-Tuning button in the AI Suite, but I haven't found it so far.
Can someone help me out?


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## GeZza200

Hey peoples here is my rig, If anyone could give me a hand getting my 2700k solid at 5GHz that would be great

Cheers


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## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeZza200*
> 
> Hey peoples here is my rig, If anyone could give me a hand getting my 2700k solid at 5GHz that would be great
> Cheers


Your not guaranteed 5Ghz. Every chip and mobo is different.
Its trial and error mostly. havent OC an Intel board in a long time. Once I get mine.


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## GeZza200

yeah true, just wondering what settings people are changing the last board i had was a p45 with q9550 its quite a bit different overclocking these new ones


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Best I could do with my 2600K was 4.8GHz at 1.42V. Anything beyond that would overwhelm my H60 temps-wise...


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## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Best I could do with my 2600K was 4.8GHz at 1.42V. Anything beyond that would overwhelm my H60 temps-wise...


So, this sabertooth Z77 is more fancy than anything else? no better temps?


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## Jcyle

Just got mine yesterday, awesome board


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> So, this sabertooth Z77 is more fancy than anything else? no better temps?


That was on a P67 Sabertooth but no, the Thermal Armor has almost nothing to do with CPU temps, even on Z77. That's completely down to your CPU cooler...


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## saberkick

I'm reposting my previous post on this thread, because I'm really worried about my temps, so there it was:

Hi everybody, I'm a happy owner of a Sabertooth Z77. I have a question though to all of you who have this board. I'd like to know the temps you get on the VCore sensor with thermal radar ?

Cause right now my 2500k is oc at 2,5Ghz / 1,26Vcore, and in load (prime95) my VCore sensor gets to a bit above 50C. And when I put a more extreme set up like my cpu to 5chz with 1,45Vcore, the Vcore goes above 60C, and I wonder if that's ok at all.

I have the 2 little fans installed like recommended by Asus, my case is a pretty well ventilated Lancool K63, and my cpu cooler is a Silver Arrow pointing upward.

Thanks a lot.


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## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> So, this sabertooth Z77 is more fancy than anything else? no better temps?


I think you should buy a different motherboard so I don't have to see your avatar in this thread









Also, my 3770K comes Wednesday with pics/benchies/etc to follow


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## GeZza200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberkick*
> 
> I'm reposting my previous post on this thread, because I'm really worried about my temps, so there it was:
> Hi everybody, I'm a happy owner of a Sabertooth Z77. I have a question though to all of you who have this board. I'd like to know the temps you get on the VCore sensor with thermal radar ?
> Cause right now my 2500k is oc at 2,5Ghz / 1,26Vcore, and in load (prime95) my VCore sensor gets to a bit above 50C. And when I put a more extreme set up like my cpu to 5chz with 1,45Vcore, the Vcore goes above 60C, and I wonder if that's ok at all.
> I have the 2 little fans installed like recommended by Asus, my case is a pretty well ventilated Lancool K63, and my cpu cooler is a Silver Arrow pointing upward.
> Thanks a lot.


With mine at 4.9GHz and 1.41v i see the vcore get to 65c under Prime95 but the CPU is always around 10c lower.


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## Jcyle

Question, how do you control your chasis fan speed? I've tried the bios but no help. My NZXT fans are connected to a 3 pin fan splitte, spinning at a low speed. But the issue is that, my 120mm Yateloons, which are connected to the mobo, are constantly spinning at max rpm. How do you slow it down?

Edit: figured it out.


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## Subclient

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> I had to return my SABERTOOTH Z77
> Not sure if it was a hardare level problem or BIOS but the USB 2.0 ports on this board are buggy, When i did a re-install of Win7 i popped the disc in and restarted from the Disc and the windows installation screen appears but the keybaord woudlnt work, The keyboard is lit up and getting power but it wasnt working at all. So I restarted and tried again and it worked, Restarted to try it again and it didnt work.
> So the USB 2.0 ports (top 4 in my case) on this baord something is wrong with them, Hopefully a BIOS update could fix this issue.


I can confirm, on my board I also have a upper 4 usb ports buggy







... I had same mouse issue - verry fast flikkering.

decide to keep the board - has a plenty other usb ports.


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## garikfox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subclient*
> 
> I can confirm, on my board I also have a upper 4 usb ports buggy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I had same mouse issue - verry fast flikkering.
> decide to keep the board - has a plenty other usb ports.


Ok, Well that tells me my board was ok and its a BIOS (USB module) problem, They'll have to update the USB module in the bios to fix it.

Well that sucks I should've kept my board then


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## rwchui

Add me to the club











I love this motherboard!


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## GeZza200

Just wondering if anyone would know if you can fit a X-fi titanium card in the pci-e slot where the fan is?


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## saberkick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeZza200*
> 
> With mine at 4.9GHz and 1.41v i see the vcore get to 65c under Prime95 but the CPU is always around 10c lower.


Thanks for your answer, so it seems it's normal temp.


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## FishCommander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I think you should buy a different motherboard so I don't have to see your avatar in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my 3770K comes Wednesday with pics/benchies/etc to follow


This


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## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwchui*
> 
> Add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this motherboard!


You should install your assistant fans...


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## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwchui*
> 
> Add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this motherboard!


i love me some ft02 cases. The sabertooth looks aesthetic as fuh in there


----------



## FishCommander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwchui*
> 
> Add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this motherboard!





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Your RAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHHHIITE!







what kind of ram is it? I just bought a Muskin ridgeback kit... but may consider returning it


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## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your RAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHHHIITE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what kind of ram is it? I just bought a Muskin ridgeback kit... but may consider returning it


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233199

Corsair Vengeance Low Voltage DDR3-1600, I assume.

I'm thinking of selling my 16GB to replace with Samsung 30nm modules, not sure yet. (I have 8GB of Samsung from another build already







)


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## FishCommander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233199
> Corsair Vengeance Low Voltage DDR3-1600, I assume.
> I'm thinking of selling my 16GB to replace with Samsung 30nm modules, not sure yet. (I have 8GB of Samsung from another build already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Link didn't work for but I found it Thanks


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## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> Link didn't work for but I found it Thanks


Interesting... Wonder if it's doing something similar to what it does to amazon links. I'll leave it up for those who wish to copy/paste it into the browser







They certainly are good looking ram modules, that's for sure


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## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I think you should buy a different motherboard so I don't have to see your avatar in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my 3770K comes Wednesday with pics/benchies/etc to follow


Well im gettin this mobo, get used to it, i will be even on your dreams tonigth.

plus everybody knows IB sucks as hell don't even bother.


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## Oberon

Add me up


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## Robilar

So far the board has been very stable. As I noted earlier, my only beef is if you mount the NB fan, you can't use the top PCI-X slot for a sound card.


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## GeZza200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> So far the board has been very stable. As I noted earlier, my only beef is if you mount the NB fan, you can't use the top PCI-X slot for a sound card.


Yeah im not sure what to do here, i think i may just remove the fan, the on-board soundcard sounds pretty bad when you have been using x-fi cards for a few years.


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## Robilar

It fits between, I've just always preferred the top slot on Asus boards.


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## GeZza200

oh good, what the temps like with the video cards though?


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## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeZza200*
> 
> oh good, what the temps like with the video cards though?


It isn't long enough to really interfere with the top card's air intake, so it should have no more than a minimal impact, if any at all, on temps.


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## Robilar

Doesn't have any impact on the reference cards. The sound card comes nowhere near the intake fan on the top card and these gpus exhaust hot air out the back of the case.

GPU's that have more than one fan (like my MSI GTX 570 Lightnings for example) could block some airflow.

Given that gpu's are designed to be sandwiched together (tri or quad configs) I doubt it matters much.


----------



## LazyJackson

I'm building a new rig, and wondered if you guys had any input on which cooler to be the best fit for my Sabertooth (nestled in a Phantom), between the Thermalright True Black 120, Prolimatech Megahalems, or even the Zalman CNPS9900?

Edit: Yeahh Zalman.


----------



## AZpen30

So I was playing around with the sabertooth last night that i just picked up and i have to say its quiet a cool board , But is there a Auto tune with this board or is that the PRO only?


----------



## Robilar

Auto tune is pointless. Pick your multi, set your PLL voltage to 1.8, your ram voltage to whatever the ram requires, set AI tweak to manual. Set your vcore to an appropriate setting and away you go.

These boards are so easy to overclock it's almost no fun.


----------



## AZpen30

I know there easy , i just wanted to see what it came up with.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Auto tune is pointless. Pick your multi, set your PLL voltage to 1.8, your ram voltage to whatever the ram requires, set AI tweak to manual. Set your vcore to an appropriate setting and away you go.
> These boards are so easy to overclock it's almost no fun.


Too true, 1155 made overclocking effortless.


----------



## Robilar

I'm not a fan of autotune as it adds way too much vcore, ups PLL voltage and can move BLCK (Which is usually not a good idea).


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I'm not a fan of autotune as it adds way too much vcore, ups PLL voltage and can move BLCK (Which is usually not a good idea).


Agreed. Besides, what's the fun in overclocking if all your gonna do is let the board pick out all the settings for you?


----------



## xxShinobixx

First post had to be in this thread


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxShinobixx*
> 
> First post had to be in this thread


I see people like these RAMs, imo they look awesome; tho I'm only on 2 dims


----------



## xxShinobixx

Yeah, the LED's at the bottom of the sticks are rockin. And clocks well for sandy as well.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxShinobixx*
> 
> Yeah, the LED's at the bottom of the sticks are rockin. And clocks well for sandy as well.


The bottom LEDs are definitely a epic touch, these rams looks nice overall too, a lot better looking than most RAMs out there


----------



## xxShinobixx

Totally agree!


----------



## Jcyle

Question, do I have to register the Sabertooth for the 5 year warranty? Or does it only need proof of purchase?


----------



## Robilar

Asus warranties don't require registration.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Asus warranties don't require registration.


Thanks, nice to hear


----------



## Tisca

I'm trying to decide on a Z77 mobo and have noticed the Sabertooths are very popular. Why is that? Why did you choose the Sabertooth over another Asus board or even brand? You could get Bluetooth and WiFi for 20€ more on the Deluxe model which seems like a no-brainer investment. What's extra/special about the Sabertooth besides the thermal armor which I'm not sure is for any good purpose. I'm sure I've overlooked some features but what are they?


----------



## Robilar

I've never used bluetooth or wi-fi on any desktop system. The Sabertooth has a 5 year warranty instead of the standard 3 and it is pretty swanky looking to boot.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> I'm trying to decide on a Z77 mobo and have noticed the Sabertooths are very popular. Why is that? Why did you choose the Sabertooth over another Asus board or even brand? You could get Bluetooth and WiFi for 20€ more on the Deluxe model which seems like a no-brainer investment. What's extra/special about the Sabertooth besides the thermal armor which I'm not sure is for any good purpose. I'm sure I've overlooked some features but what are they?


5 Years warranty vs 3 on the other boards, Sabertooth looks a lot cleaner in my opinion, and the fact that I just have no interest at all in Asus's baby blue line of motherboards. Gigabyte was famed for bootloop from Z68, who knows if it carried over to their Z77 lineups; MSI's motherboards are alright, but never liked the blue.


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I've never used bluetooth or wi-fi on any desktop system. The Sabertooth has a 5 year warranty instead of the standard 3 and it is pretty swanky looking to boot.


The warranty is a good point, that changes everything.
You know what, I've neither used wifi or BT on a desktop system and don't know if I ever will. Maybe there's ****loads I'll never use and should be looking at something 100€ cheaper instead.
Does the Sabertooth work/keep cool enough without the small fans? I wouldn't want that extra noise. Can you remove the armor like I've seen done on previous models if needed?


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> 5 Years warranty vs 3 on the other boards, Sabertooth looks a lot cleaner in my opinion, and the fact that I just have no interest at all in Asus's baby blue line of motherboards. Gigabyte was famed for bootloop from Z68, who knows if it carried over to their Z77 lineups; MSI's motherboards are alright, but never liked the blue.


Color is a strong selling point. I thought I'd make it easy and go with an red Asus board which left only one option, V Gene but it's probably not the right one for me after all. I don't need anything bigger than mATX but I'm going to use an ATX case anyway and I don't need extra nice integrated sound and that MPCIE thingie that I can only assume adds to the price. Don't want blue either if I can help it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Couldnt wait for more stock of the GTX680 to come in.
Got my Z77 Sabertooth and i5 3570k coming this week I hope. If shipping is not delayed.
$540 with taxes, not too bad of an upgrade.


----------



## staryoshi

You'll notice quite a nice boost in gaming performance coming from a X6







Congrats!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> You'll notice quite a nice boost in gaming performance coming from a X6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats!


Right now, the games I play all are maxed out without issues. Its just been 2 years since my last build, which I do every year.
I need a new toy to play with, and this is my first Intel system.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Right now, the games I play all are maxed out without issues. Its just been 2 years since my last build, which I do every year.
> I need a new toy to play with, and this is my first Intel system.


Whether you're maxing games or not, you'll see increased frame rates across the board. Phenom II X6 1090T to Core i5 2500K was a very worthy upgrade for me, both in terms of performance and power consumption.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Would there be an issue using this ram on the IB system
G.SKILL F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR Sniper SE 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1866 CL9-10-9-28 1.5V Memory Kit
http://www.ncix.ca/products/?sku=59977


----------



## Robilar

No its fine.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Good, just need to figure how to OC on Intel. Should be the same as AMD. Its like starting fresh and new all over.
Feel so noobish...


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Good, just need to figure how to OC on Intel. Should be the same as AMD. Its like starting fresh and new all over.
> Feel so noobish...


Should be fairly simple to understand, 1155 made it so.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm officially official now. Going to overclock/tweak her soon. In the meantime I'm debating between using 8GB Samsung Wonder-Ram, going back to 16GB corsair vengeance ddr3-1600 CL9 1.35v, or buying another 8GB kit for 16GB... So many options









Now to find a new home for my 2500K / P67 Extreme 4


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I'm officially official now. Going to overclock/tweak her soon. In the meantime I'm debating between using 8GB Samsung Wonder-Ram, going back to 16GB corsair vengeance ddr3-1600 CL9 1.35v, or buying another 8GB kit for 16GB... So many options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to find a new home for my 2500K / P67 Extreme 4


Nice build


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> Nice build


Thanks, I just bumped the CPU to 4.2Ghz @ 1.1v (for testing) and the ram to 1866 9-9-9-27 1.45v, stable so far. The best part? The i7 3770k is running under 40C with 23.5C ambient temps (Small FFT, I'll push it with the hard stuff later)







Ivy sure runs hot


----------



## GeZza200

How do these boards handle 4 slots of ram? are they still good for overclocking using all dimms? I know my old P5QPRO didn't like all 4 being used?

Cheers


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> Thanks, I just bumped the CPU to 4.2Ghz @ 1.1v (for testing) and the ram to 1866 9-9-9-27 1.45v, stable so far. The best part? The i7 3770k is running under 40C with 23.5C ambient temps (Small FFT, I'll push it with the hard stuff later)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ivy sure runs hot


Those are some nice voltage for the CPU and RAM, especially the RAM. Definitely push the CPU a little more and see where that leads.


----------



## Blatsz32

Hello all, just a question. currently I wn a gigabyte 990fxa-ud7 and a fx-8150 and it been nothing but headaches since day one. The chip runs hot, the NB runs hot, and the Vdrop is ridiculous. I am considering scraping this set up and switching to a Sabretooth Z77 and an Intel chip. My question is what chip should I go for. I have a budget of 5-600 dollars. i just want the headaches gone. I mostly game and also do some video conversion. Thank you for your help. Anyone wanna buy a UD7 and a FX-8150, LOL!


----------



## MoYu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeZza200*
> 
> How do these boards handle 4 slots of ram? are they still good for overclocking using all dimms? I know my old P5QPRO didn't like all 4 being used?
> Cheers


id also like to know this as well


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxShinobixx*
> 
> First post had to be in this thread


Bro I need to know what ram that is. Epic is an understatement. I am going to get this mobo and i know some similar ram will make my set up complete. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> Bro I need to know what ram that is. Epic is an understatement. I am going to get this mobo and i know some similar ram will make my set up complete. Thanks in advance!


Crucial Tactical Tracers, they look epic and I totally agree


----------



## Viesta

Should both fans be intake or a push/pull setup, and in what direction ?


----------



## FishCommander

I'm one of you now









Still want to WC it... maybe soon


----------



## DoktorCreepy

So far so good I haven't increased wattage limit for ocing yet but with default settings I'm at a 4.6 wall as I have windows stability issues past that. I replaced the 40mm rear I/O fan with a noiseblocker one and I set it up as exhaust.

Idle CPU temp is 36C.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> Crucial Tactical Tracers, they look epic and I totally agree


Thank you soo much! hopefully i will have everything ordered and set up in a few weeks. I will post pics.


----------



## majnu

Subscribed to thread as I have this board, just waiting on my Samsung Green RAM and IB CPU.

BTW - What on board audio does this have, I've heard that it is not as good as the one used on the Asus Z77 Maximus V Gene?


----------



## Sujeto 1

i just grab one from amazon.com, still i dont think this is the best mobo but i must recognize that thermal armor will help me with the lot of dust that come into my house.


----------



## McDown

Just posted mine in For Sale








It was hard decision, I really like the board.


----------



## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Just posted mine in For Sale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was hard decision, I really like the board.


why?? please tell


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> why?? please tell


cuz I love my MIVE-z more


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorCreepy*
> 
> So far so good I haven't increased wattage limit for ocing yet but with default settings I'm at a 4.6 wall as I have windows stability issues past that. I replaced the 40mm rear I/O fan with a noiseblocker one and I set it up as exhaust.
> Idle CPU temp is 36C.


Is the fans 40mm or 50mm being used? Seen different reports on them.
I know the one on the mobo is intake, the rear I/O exhaust. Think it will make a difference doing that instead of intake?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Is the fans 40mm or 50mm being used? Seen different reports on them.
> I know the one on the mobo is intake, the rear I/O exhaust. Think it will make a difference doing that instead of intake?


The fan in the center of the motherboard blows onto the motherboard and the PCH. The fan stationed with the IO ports is intended to be an _intake_ fan that blows over the voltage circuitry heatsinks and it will do a better job bringing cool air in


----------



## xxShinobixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> Bro I need to know what ram that is. Epic is an understatement. I am going to get this mobo and i know some similar ram will make my set up complete. Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> Crucial Tactical Tracers, they look epic and I totally agree


This!







running @ 1866 8-9-9-24 without having to touch any voltages so not just a pretty face.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> The fan in the center of the motherboard blows onto the motherboard and the PCH. The fan stationed with the IO ports is intended to be an _intake_ fan that blows over the voltage circuitry heatsinks and it will do a better job bringing cool air in


The area behind my case is very warm, due to the heat coming out of my case in the rear. With being so close, wouldnt the air be warmer going into the mobo?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The area behind my case is very warm, due to the heat coming out of my case in the rear. With being so close, wouldnt the air be warmer going into the mobo?


Sometimes airflow is airflow!







It wouldn't do any good to have it exhaust, as it will pull very little air from the heatsinks.

The fans are optional, too. I'm half-tempted to take 'em out since I have a robust 5-year warranty


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I will try both ways and see. Nothing hurts when testing.


----------



## og4tcm

Add me if you haven't already ;-). And yes, that is regular clear tape on that fan wire, lol! I'm going to put some sleeving on it this weekend to clean it up.


----------



## Blatsz32

Going to purchase tomorrow, is the mobo bios flashed already for a 3770k IB processor? According to Guru3d i need to flash it. Is that correct?


----------



## adamski07

Add me up!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Going to purchase tomorrow, is the mobo bios flashed already for a 3770k IB processor? According to Guru3d i need to flash it. Is that correct?


Guru3d never mention to update bios?
There is only one bios. All Z77 boards are already made for IB cpu.
Any new ones, would be for stability and compatibility for ram.


----------



## Blatsz32

Thank You Speed. I can't wait to purchase this and a 3770k. It's going to be 10x better than my gigabyte UD-7 and FX-8150. What a nightmare that set up turned out to be. As far as Guru3d: "Important note: most Series 6 motherboards will support Ivy bridge processors! All you need is a BIOS update with support from your motherboard manufacturer. Obviously features like PCIe Gen 3 and native USB support will not kick in.". I may have misunderstood what they were trying to say. I just didn't want to be caught in the same situation AMD pulled on some of their 990 and 970 chipsets where you had to get the bios flash b4 you could use the Bulldozer.

So I'm going to purchase the 3770k do you all think its overkill for gaming or shoud I go with the IB i5? I aalso do some video conversions but nothing major. Again thank you for responding to my query Speed.


----------



## Sxcerino

Personally, I installed the rear small fan as an exhaust.

Having it intake all the exhausted air from my CPU and GPUs just doesn't feel right.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Thank You Speed. I can't wait to purchase this and a 3770k. It's going to be 10x better than my gigabyte UD-7 and FX-8150. What a nightmare that set up turned out to be. As far as Guru3d: "Important note: most Series 6 motherboards will support Ivy bridge processors! All you need is a BIOS update with support from your motherboard manufacturer. Obviously features like PCIe Gen 3 and native USB support will not kick in.". I may have misunderstood what they were trying to say. I just didn't want to be caught in the same situation AMD pulled on some of their 990 and 970 chipsets where you had to get the bios flash b4 you could use the Bulldozer.
> So I'm going to purchase the 3770k do you all think its overkill for gaming or shoud I go with the IB i5? I aalso do some video conversions but nothing major. Again thank you for responding to my query Speed.


3570k is fine for gaming. With HT temps are hotter when you OC, and does nothing for gaming. Good for heavy work loads of video/audio/rendering/photo work.
The 3570k can do video rendering, just 3770k is more efficient at it.
You decide if you want to spend $100 more.


----------



## Vyperhate

Ok I'm officially baffled as to how to overclock with this board... I've been overclocking CPUs for years and never had any issues but this board just won't use my overclock settings. I've got a 2600K in it and have set up the overclock settings to run at 4.0Ghz everything looks good in the BIOS and a save changes and reset. Get into windows and it's running at stock clock speeds. When I go back to the BIOS all my settings are still there and saved. Why is it reverting to stock settings when I'm in windows? Is there some trick to making this board use the custom clock settings? Please help me out here!


----------



## adamski07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vyperhate*
> 
> Ok I'm officially baffled as to how to overclock with this board... I've been overclocking CPUs for years and never had any issues but this board just won't use my overclock settings. I've got a 2600K in it and have set up the overclock settings to run at 4.0Ghz everything looks good in the BIOS and a save changes and reset. Get into windows and it's running at stock clock speeds. When I go back to the BIOS all my settings are still there and saved. Why is it reverting to stock settings when I'm in windows? Is there some trick to making this board use the custom clock settings? Please help me out here!


Are you running it on full load? try using any stress program that will push your cpu to run on full load and check if the speed goes up to the clock you just set.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vyperhate*
> 
> Ok I'm officially baffled as to how to overclock with this board... I've been overclocking CPUs for years and never had any issues but this board just won't use my overclock settings. I've got a 2600K in it and have set up the overclock settings to run at 4.0Ghz everything looks good in the BIOS and a save changes and reset. Get into windows and it's running at stock clock speeds. When I go back to the BIOS all my settings are still there and saved. Why is it reverting to stock settings when I'm in windows? Is there some trick to making this board use the custom clock settings? Please help me out here!


Enabled turbo? If not, do it


----------



## Sujeto 1

People, would you use the 3570K on a hot enviroment? i mean my weather country is mostly HOT, temps tend to reach 38 - 40 ºC, wouldn't be good idead to have a processor (as faster as it is) that reach that crazys temps to people who live Norway where temps are pretty much low. Is there not a serious risk here of damange in warm enviroments?


----------



## CarmelloTruffle

Hey I just got mine along with a 3770k. I got it running at 4.5 ghz. Vcore is 1.245v. Temps are not what I would like. Running prime 95, I hit past 75. I'm gonna try adjusting my Heatsink. It's a huge phanteks. Also I'll play with the voltage a little. Trying to get maybe 5ghz below 80 if that's possible at 5ghz on auto they had 1.4+ volts and it was in the 90's.


----------



## Starlo77

Hi guys, I've just upgraded my p67 gaming setup to the Sabertooth Z77 setup. Currently running a SB 2600 non-K @4Ghz. Wanted to make sure the system was stable prior to throwing in my new 3570K and corsair H-80 setup.

Regarding temps, a overclocked 3570K should run cooler than a equally overclocked 3770K, yes or no?

Haven't really done any overclocking before, nut is it really as simple as rasing the multipier to the desired number (ie 100Mhz X45 cpu ratio), and maybe adding a little Vcore voltage? or is there more to it?

Pic is of my 2600 setup, GTX 570 Noctua air setup


----------



## Konshu

Ok, I give in and am checking in here to see if anyone has had similar issues.

1) The board insists on booting to the HDMI port, regardless of if anything is plugged in. (Desired result: Boot to PCIe GTX580)
- I have tried several things here, it seems by pure chance that I actually get it to boot on occasion to the GTX580.

2) When I did get it to boot to GTX580 I noticed in High settings on BF3 that there was a "micro stutter" or half second fluttering when running around. These settings btw are based on auto since it was a fresh install. Any idea what is triggering this? (Desired result: Well ideally smooth awesomesauce gameplay. A better understanding on a technical end what actually is doing this.)

3) From the software standpoint does iControl need to be there, what does it do? Does it auto QoS? I have the rough idea that it is a QoS engine for the NIC but my understanding is vague and id like to know more.

Thanks for the help.

System:

Sabertooth Z77
Intel i7 3770K
G.Skill DDR3 8GB RAM
Intel 320 160GB SSD
EVGA GTX 580
Corsair H70


----------



## mordocai rp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Thank You Speed. I can't wait to purchase this and a 3770k. It's going to be 10x better than my gigabyte UD-7 and FX-8150. What a nightmare that set up turned out to be. As far as Guru3d: "Important note: most Series 6 motherboards will support Ivy bridge processors! All you need is a BIOS update with support from your motherboard manufacturer. Obviously features like PCIe Gen 3 and native USB support will not kick in.". I may have misunderstood what they were trying to say. I just didn't want to be caught in the same situation AMD pulled on some of their 990 and 970 chipsets where you had to get the bios flash b4 you could use the Bulldozer.
> So I'm going to purchase the 3770k do you all think its overkill for gaming or shoud I go with the IB i5? I aalso do some video conversions but nothing major. Again thank you for responding to my query Speed.


go witht he i5, you don't need i7(which is an i5 with hyperthreading) unless you convert a lot of movies, or play really heavy cpu intensive games(civilization, large sc2, etc).


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Its here... so happy.
Tomorrow morning I start new. I like the Certificate you get. Nice touch.
I did test each fan and both same time, on silent mode, you dont hear it, once full speed. Well they are louder than all 10 fans in my case.
So we'll see soon enough, might change for different ones.


----------



## majnu




----------



## Sujeto 1

why people with this motherboard dont miss nice features of Gigabyte UDH5 or even Asus Z77 pro with Blue tooth and wifi included, i mean they are so reliable than any sabertooth, i still dont understand the "magic" of sabertooth they dont even overclock better or reduce temps, but they get loud so beside of the vide card, cooler and fans case we also add noise from the motherboard W the heck?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> why people with this motherboard dont miss nice features of Gigabyte UDH5 or even Asus Z77 pro with Blue tooth and wifi included, i mean they are so reliable than any sabertooth, i still dont understand the "magic" of sabertooth they dont even overclock better or reduce temps, but they get loud so beside of the vide card, cooler and fans case we also add noise from the motherboard W the heck?


What?

Sabertooth carries a 5 year warranty and is made of top-notch components, that's the magic. The thermal armor works in conjunction with the included fans nicely and we are granted a massive array of temperature, voltage, and fan speed monitoring with Asus Thermal Radar. Asus also has one of the best BIOS's in the industry, typically.

And my system is very quiet, for the record.


----------



## adamski07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> why people with this motherboard dont miss nice features of Gigabyte UDH5 or even Asus Z77 pro with Blue tooth and wifi included, i mean they are so reliable than any sabertooth, i still dont understand the "magic" of sabertooth they dont even overclock better or reduce temps, but they get loud so beside of the vide card, cooler and fans case we also add noise from the motherboard W the heck?


I'll admit the thermal armor is one of the thing I considered with sabertooth. I needed it for my mod project. It's a personal choice. I think some of the folks who owns this considered the same thing, but not all.


----------



## Sujeto 1

5 yeas warranty vs 2 or 3 years on others asus models isnot a big deal, TUF materials or not, my experience tell me that if a product is defective you probably know at the first year even at firs month, so you can see the extra dollars expent in this motherboard as a purchase of the 2 extra years on warranty, there are a lot of reviews at web, and it doesn't overclock better neither SB or IB, most exact the same OC than other reliable motherboards again of Asus (many other good brands around also), thermal armor obviously here could cool rest of motherboard but not the processor, a good air flow case could do that even better, so cmon lets be realistic, this MOBO is fancy as the word itself. Yes, it looks beautifull mainly in pictures but dont add too much more.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Stupid question. I noticed you get a 5 year warranty, anyone planning on using this board for that long?


----------



## adamski07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Stupid question. I noticed you get a 5 year warranty, anyone planning on using this board for that long?


Probably not for the first user, but that adds up in re-sale value. After selling some stuffs online, buyers would always ask you for warranty information of the item as I do when I buy used item.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Stupid question. I noticed you get a 5 year warranty, anyone planning on using this board for that long?


I'm planning on this being my last major desktop upgrade (besides the GPU), so yes







I'm aiming for 3+ years. I got the Intel OC warranty, too


----------



## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I'm planning on this being my last major desktop upgrade (besides the GPU), so yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm aiming for 3+ years. I got the Intel OC warranty, too


LOL if you are adressing to build the last major desktop upgrade you should wait for 2013, rigthnow hardware is very dissapointing, so not too wise in getting a rig today. powerfulls but expensives video cards, motherboard with no innovations just fancys and fancys tottaly unecesarys, and processors gettin TOO hot increasing proccesing power by 5 %.


----------



## viper0hr

Read your manual


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> LOL if you are adressing to build the last major desktop upgrade you should wait for 2013, rigthnow hardware is very dissapointing, so not too wise in getting a rig today. powerfulls but expensives video cards, motherboard with no innovations just fancys and fancys tottaly unecesarys, and processors gettin TOO hot increasing proccesing power by 5 %.


Current hardware is not disappointing at all. GTX680 that more than doubles the performance of the GTX 560 Ti while performing at similar power levels, Ivy Bridge CPU that clocks well enough and uses less power than Sandy while improving the iGPU and gaining chipset features, SSDs getting cheaper every day. Now's a great time to upgrade.

Complaints about Ivy Bridge are mostly unfounded. My CPU stays well under 70C at 4.4Ghz in a near-silent system with performance mainstream cooling. That's a win in my book. Also, it doesn't matter if a CPU runs hotter if the design can accommodate it. Running hotter yet using less power is fine by me. The Sabertooth brings many great qualities to the table. It's super customizable and super reliable with the best BIOS interface I've ever used.

There will always be something better around the corner if you wait, you have to pull the trigger at some point. And $500 for a flagship GPU is nothing new, if anything it's a lower price point than in years past (8800GTX Ultra, anyone?)


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> "There will always be something better around the corner if you wait, you have to pull the trigger at some point."


Wow that just hit home.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Wow that just hit home.


Your avatar has many triggers to pull


----------



## viper0hr

Hey I just was putting my sabertooth ivy bridge comp together and it seemed like the socket plate took a good amount of force to close and when I did a test boot the cpu failed. any possibility of having damaged my cpu or mobo? I installed it all correctly and lined it all up right. Just wanting to know if anyone had any similar issues.
Also I checked and none of the pins are bent.
I also just tried to boot the mobo without a cpu and the cpu error light came on then went off and the fans started to run. This is my first big build and I'm trying to figure out what went wrong....


----------



## Arizonian

If I want to turn on iGPU using HDMI without discreet video card, where in the UEFI do I find these settings? I'm going to use the mother board HDMI port.

_(Kids getting my 680 while I hunt down a 690) Don't want them touching my new Ivy build with fresh windows 7 install.







_

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Blatsz32

well, I did it. I bought a Sabretooth and IB i5 processor...I couldn't be happier. Going from a 990fx chipset to the z77 is night and day. Love it

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2357633


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> If I want to turn on iGPU using HDMI without discreet video card, where in the UEFI do I find these settings? I'm going to use the mother board HDMI port.
> _(Kids getting my 680 while I hunt down a 690) Don't want them touching my new Ivy build with fresh windows 7 install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> Thanks in advance.


mine worked natively, no settings required (Unless you turned off iGPU; it should be on by default)


----------



## Arizonian

Hey Sujeto......this is a CLUB thread not a debate thread. If you don't like this mobo then don't buy it. Who's forcing you?

Don't come here and push your uneducated garbage logic and waste our time reading a your phsyco babble. You obviously don't know how OCN works or anything about computers which is painfully obvious reading your replies. Again Club thread where those who own the mobo come to discuss it and ask question we may have amongst other Sabertooth owners.

There are other threads your welcome to reply (not that I will ever read again) or even create here on OCN if you hate a product, but not in a CLUB thread.
Your snide comments to Staryoshi were unwarranted. He's got more knowledge in computing than you hands down.

Your on my blocked list so don't bother responding to me I won't be able to read it. Hopefully a moderator removes your posts in here and reference to swear words.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> *snip*


I would debate what you've said, but there isn't any content worth debating.

Don't buy the board and move on if it bothers you so much, you have contributed nothing of value to this thread. (which is the Sabertooth _Owner's_ thread, btw)

P.S. Alluding to swear words is not acceptable in this community, either.

On topic: I think I may remove my assist fans, as I don't particularly need them


----------



## staryoshi

I removed 4 case fans and the assist fans and turned down my two AP14s (with the H100) and set my other fans' speed lower. Got some nice silence going on and small FFTs are still around 55-60C at 4.2Ghz 1.11v or so


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> mine worked natively, no settings required (Unless you turned off iGPU; it should be on by default)


I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. My HDMI cable is 1.4 and I don't think it's that. If I could find the setting for iGPU running off integrated graphics rather that discreet graphics in this new UEFI Bios I'm sure I'd solve the problem. I have no way of determining if it's turned off or not.

I'd also like to enable the iGPU to work in conjunction with my discreet GPU eventually and have yet to figure that out. I've got some homework ahead of me before I even attempt to OC my CPU. It's a new BIOS which seems much better than our 10 yr old BIOS, it has friendly interface but a rather steep learning curve none the less.

If anyone can tell me specifically where to locate the info in UEFI I'd surely appreciate it.


----------



## staryoshi

I do what I do on a volunteer basis. To suggest anything besides that we're looking out for the best interest of our members is entirely incorrect and insulting.

If you are not interested in paying a premium price for a premium product, don't! It's as simple as that. We are aware that there are cheaper options available that perform very well, but we have chosen to live with the premium purchase price to have this specific board for various, perfectly valid reasons. Instead of continuously attacking our purchase decision with invalid points (which are not "facts"), just speak with your wallet and don't buy it for yourself.


----------



## X3NIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> just speak with your wallet and don't buy it for yourself.


Truer words have never been spoken. The guy doesn't own the board and is in an owners thread bashing the product.

Get out.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. My HDMI cable is 1.4 and I don't think it's that. If I could find the setting for iGPU running off integrated graphics rather that discreet graphics in this new UEFI Bios I'm sure I'd solve the problem. I have no way of determining if it's turned off or not.
> I'd also like to enable the iGPU to work in conjunction with my discreet GPU eventually and have yet to figure that out. I've got some homework ahead of me before I even attempt to OC my CPU. It's a new BIOS which seems much better than our 10 yr old BIOS, it has friendly interface but a rather steep learning curve none the less.
> If anyone can tell me specifically where to locate the info in UEFI I'd surely appreciate it.


Might be redundant of a question, but you have selected your monitor to output the HDMI input correct?

Right now I'm using display port on the sabertooth to my monitor, and it works fine.

I believe I only saw options to enable/disable iGPU under ufei, other than the OCing options. I believe it was in the CPU oc tab under AI tuner.

It has worked with old and updated BIOS.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

My first post! So I have been trolling these forums for a week now after discovering them while searching for parts for my new rig. So thanks in advance -- I've copied most of what you guys have put together









I just got back from Microcenter with these:



It's a start but not close to complete.

I have a few questions for all your geniuses out there.

I am about to order 32GB of memory. I run several VMs on my machine so that much memory may not be required but I will feel good about having it. Should I get a 32gb quad channel 4 dimms. Or can I get away with getting 2 x 16gb duel channel dimm kits. Also what brand/model would you guys recommend that you have gotten the best performance with.

Lastly what Power supply would you guys recommend. I am looking at the Corsair Gold AX850.

Thanks!


----------



## Sourtop

As far as I know there doesn't exist 2 x 16 memory kits. I would go with Corsair Vengeance though.

PSU depends on what GPU you're running. If you're planning on running two high end video cards then the AX850 is a solid choice.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> My first post! So I have been trolling these forums for a week now after discovering them while searching for parts for my new rig. So thanks in advance -- I've copied most of what you guys have put together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got back from Microcenter with these:
> 
> It's a start but not close to complete.
> I have a few questions for all your geniuses out there.
> I am about to order 32GB of memory. I run several VMs on my machine so that much memory may not be required but I will feel good about having it. Should I get a 32gb quad channel 4 dimms. Or can I get away with getting 2 x 16gb duel channel dimm kits. Also what brand/model would you guys recommend that you have gotten the best performance with.
> Lastly what Power supply would you guys recommend. I am looking at the Corsair Gold AX850.
> Thanks!


Just get the 8GBs. The new Asus boards works just as well even when all four dimms are occupied. The second dual channel set doesn't piggy back off the first set anymore.

G.skill ram's have been reputable and reliable.

AX850 is a good choice. Any seasonic variants are good choices. I also like the Antec line.


----------



## viper0hr

any help?
Can someone tell me if when they start their mobo without a cpu if the error light comes on? Trying to find out if my cpu or socket is bad...


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Hey Sujeto......this is a CLUB thread not a debate thread. If you don't like this mobo then don't buy it. Who's forcing you?
> Don't come here and push your uneducated garbage logic and waste our time reading a your phsyco babble. You obviously don't know how OCN works or anything about computers which is painfully obvious reading your replies. Again Club thread where those who own the mobo come to discuss it and ask question we may have amongst other Sabertooth owners.
> There are other threads your welcome to reply (not that I will ever read again) or even create here on OCN if you hate a product, but not in a CLUB thread.
> Your snide comments to Staryoshi were unwarranted. He's got more knowledge in computing than you hands down.
> Your on my blocked list so don't bother responding to me I won't be able to read it. Hopefully a moderator removes your posts in here and reference to swear words.


Thanks man, I was growing tired of this thread tbh and you hit the nail on the head that this is the owners and help club, not a friggin' debate club.

P.S - Which port do I plug my SSD in and which port do I put my HD in to enable SSD caching?

I just want to make sure as one of the 6Gb ports is a third party controller and I was advised not to connect the SSD into that.

Thanks


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks man, I was growing tired of this thread tbh and you hit the nail on the head that this is the owners and help club, not a friggin' debate club.
> P.S - Which port do I plug my SSD in and which port do I put my HD in to enable SSD caching?
> I just want to make sure as one of the 6Gb ports is a third party controller and I was advised not to connect the SSD into that.
> Thanks


I agree about Sujeto. Why complain about nothing he owns, and tell others crap about it.
He's been block.
What SSD do you have?
Stick with the Intel ports.
Intel Z77
2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), brown
4 x SATA 3Gb/s port(s), black


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Just get the 8GBs. The new Asus boards works just as well even when all four dimms are occupied. The second dual channel set doesn't piggy back off the first set anymore.
> G.skill ram's have been reputable and reliable.
> AX850 is a good choice. Any seasonic variants are good choices. I also like the Antec line.


Thanks for the quick response! I'm looking at G.Skill's ram selection ... is 1600 the standard to get or has people been able to get 1866 or higher to detect. I'm also planning on OCing. I see a lot of G.skill snipers. Is that the best Gskill has to offer?


----------



## staryoshi

Either is fine:



I have it at 9-9-9-24 now









The Sabertooth can handle high frequency sticks with ease.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I agree about Sujeto. Why complain about nothing he owns, and tell others crap about it.
> He's been block.
> What SSD do you have?
> Stick with the Intel ports.
> Intel Z77
> 2 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s), brown
> 4 x SATA 3Gb/s port(s), black


Crucial M4 128Gb - Which is really cheap in the UK atm because the new Crucials should be out soon.

Thanks for that info, is it okay to plug the ssd into the brown 6Gb/s and the HD into one of the grey 6Gb/s ports?
Or should I just place the SSD and HD into the Brown port? (I think that you're saying that the Brown ports are the Intel ones)

I did try and watch Linus Tech Tips's YouTube video and for some reason he cut that part of the video.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response! I'm looking at G.Skill's ram selection ... is 1600 the standard to get or has people been able to get 1866 or higher to detect. I'm also planning on OCing. I see a lot of G.skill snipers. Is that the best Gskill has to offer?


Newset offering from G.Skill is Trident X and 2400 MHz is fairly inexpensive compared to the 2600 MHz. Though the new Ivy chips don't detect the 2400 MHz or the 2600 MHz you can force it through the BIOS.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Crucial M4 128Gb - Which is really cheap in the UK atm because the new Crucials should be out soon.
> Thanks for that info, is it okay to plug the ssd into the brown 6Gb/s and the HD into one of the grey 6Gb/s ports?
> Or should I just place the SSD and HD into the Brown port? (I think that you're saying that the Brown ports are the Intel ones)
> I did try and watch Linus Tech Tips's YouTube video and for some reason he cut that part of the video.


All those ports there are Intel Chipset. The 2 brown is sata3, while the black is sata2. Use the Sata3 first with SSD/HDD
No need to SSD cache on the 128GB. Install OS on SSD and Take your most played game and install on the SSD.


----------



## MoYu

may i say that is one hell of a sexy case. Good choice


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> All those ports there are Intel Chipset. The 2 brown is sata3, while the black is sata2. Use the Sata3 first with SSD/HDD
> No need to SSD cache on the 128GB. Install OS on SSD and Take your most played game and install on the SSD.


Thanks.

Out of curiosity I do understand that ambient temps can cause motherboard temps to rise, but on idle this is mine, is it fine? considering the cpu is cooler.


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Thanks.
> Out of curiosity I do understand that ambient temps can cause motherboard temps to rise, but on idle this is mine, is it fine? considering the cpu is cooler.


Must be cold there


----------



## zoon

Hi

I also own a Z77 Sabertooth. Beside my crappy 3770K Ivy-CPU (1.32V for 4.6Ghz) I'm having a weird issue with this board.
I am missing 45MB-Ram. No matter if I try with 1,2,3 or 4 sticks. Its always those 45MB-Ram not showing in Task-Manager.
All onboard-devices are disabled except the LAN.

I've enabled Memory Remap in Bios. With disabled Windows recognizes only about 15000MB Memory.

I'm using Win7 64Bit installed in UEFI-Mode.

My IGPU is not activated altough I couldnt find a "disable" option. I only disabled Standby-Render and Mutimonitor-Support in Bios.
Changing the IGPUs available Memory doesnt help either, besides its 45MB-Ram and not 32,64+ etc.
AIDA64 listens IGPU as deactivated.

Is this happening to anyone else?

My sys:

Intel Core i7 3770K @ 4.6Ghz (to be optimized..)
Asus Z77 Sabertooth
4x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600CL7 @ 2000Mhz 9-10-9-27 1T
2x Nvidia Geforce GTX680 SLI
Creative X-Fi Titanium HD
Dell U2711 2560x1440
Enermax Platimax 1200W
2x Intel SSD 520 Series 240GB
Silverstone FT02
Noctua NH-D14


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinate*
> 
> Must be cold there


It's always cold in the UK even in the summer lol


----------



## Jeffrey

Hi OCN Sabertooth z77 owners! I just joined the club. I need a little help overclocking and made a new thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1253342/help-oc-sabertooh-z77-i7-2700k

Thank you OCN!


----------



## Blatsz32

hi guys. Not sure f anyone saw my post b4 but just wanted to join the Club. I bought my Sabretooth on Friday. Loving the board and the features. I also purchased the new IB 3570k i5..only issue is understanding the UEFI bios...I have no clue on how to OC the processor manually. My last intel system was a q6600 on a 680i and my sytem that I replaced was an AMD. The AMD had the old fashion bios.

Anyway, I tried doing the auto OC and the XMP profile. I can only get 3.5ghz OC. I'd like to try it out manually but I don't know where or what the voltage, multiplier or FSB options are. UEFI is a great interface but to someone that doesn't know how to use it it pretty complicated. Is there a tutorial somewhere online or even a guide to over clock the SB or IB on the UEFI Bios?..

Do I have to disable something in the bios to maintain a stable voltage? HELP!!!!! lol


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Hey blatsz32, I too just got Sabertooth this weekend. I haven't even put it together yet but from reading the forums I can tell you that it is fairly easy overclocking ivy bridge. I'm pretty sure there is nothing you need to do on the board and everything to do with bios settings. Don't take me as an expect but I hope I can steer you on the right track so you later help me with OCing


----------



## Blatsz32

oh heh nvm, I think I may have found a light at the end of the tunnel. there seems to be a thread, previous to this one, about overclocking a Z77 UEFI bios. LOL, guess it pays to read.
http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69

Hope that helps Gauntlet. I have yet to check it out completely but hopefully it makes navigating the UEFI bios easier


----------



## Chameleon114

Greetings Sabertooth Z77 owners. I was wondering if any of you happen to own a Mad Catz Tournament Edition Arcade Stick for the PS3 and have been able to get it to work with this Z77 board. I have a Gigabyte Z77 board, and the stick shows up but none of the buttons register so I'm wondering if this Asus board with a different USB controller has any better luck. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Arizonian

First congrats to all who purchsed the Sabertooth. My X58 was great and I'm very confident this Z77 Sabertooth will be as equally well built. One solid mobo.









I figured out how to use the Ivy intergrated graphics temporarily by switching the gold plated 1.4a HMDI cable I was using to a HDMI 1.3 and all worked.









I'm finally excited all is coming together after a two day build and reformat of HDD to start completely fresh after the last 16 months without incident. It's been very refreshing.

The kids finally have their own X58 with GTX 680 to play with and they are so excited to be able to down load and do anything they like to their own computer finally. However not more so than I am that I finally have a system without their clutter all over.

I anxiously await the final piece pre-ordred and will be with intergrated graphics until close to the end of the month when my gorgeous GTX 690 arrives.

I'll be back asking questions eventually as I'm new to the UEFI BIOS as many others on this thread. I'll be reading along and learning from others in the interim. I will be tackling other areas of CPU over clocking soon and have a lot of homework to do as the learning curve is steep yet very fun being a computer enthusiast.


----------



## majnu

Does anyone find it odd that the Assist fan that sits on the motherboard has only 3 screw placements, yet according to the manual pictures it's supposed to have 4?

- Also I think I've not connected my I/O shield correctly as I can't plug the usb leads properly into the back lol. I swear when I installed it the I/O shield clicked into place from the back of the case and the board is resting on the standoffs, so i'm stumped to why it didn't line up properly.


----------



## MoYu

Quote:


> -
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> place from the back of the case and the board is resting on the standoffs, so i'm stumped to why it didn't line up properly.
> 
> 
> 
> that happened to me as well, but what i did was clip the i/o shield onto the motherboard itself and kind of fitted into place, then mount the mobo with the i/o together onto the case.
Click to expand...


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoYu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> place from the back of the case and the board is resting on the standoffs, so i'm stumped to why it didn't line up properly.
> 
> 
> 
> that happened to me as well, but what i did was clip the i/o shield onto the motherboard itself and kind of fitted into place, then mount the mobo with the i/o together onto the case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks, I'll try that, hopefully it wont be hard to take the I/O shield off as it clipped into place.
Click to expand...


----------



## HungryPillow

Hey guys,

I've placed my order and currently waiting for the Sabertooth + i5 3570K to arrive. I checked the Asus Z77 info thread and it has a very helpful list of items, but I just want to confirm what are the necessary drivers to install and which can I skip? I'm upgrading from an E6600 so I can't wait!

Asus Sabertooth Z77
i5 3570K
16GB 1833 RAM
256GB Samsung 830 SSD
Asus Xonar STX sound card
DVD-RW drive
ATI 5850 video card


----------



## Blatsz32

well HungryP, seems you and I are going to have close to the same set-up..Allow me to say that you won't be disappointed. I am extremely happy with this board. My last set-up, a gigabyte 990fxa-UD-7 was a pain to build, 3 boards were DOA (no joke)..this one started up with no issues what so ever. Awesome just awesome.

I spent less money on the basics to start my AMD rig (mobo,cpu, etc) , but I am so happy that I invested the money in this Intel system. Maybe once the kinks are worked out of BD and PD comes out, if it ever does, I'll get my AMD rig back up...

Once you get the set up going HungryP, please post your OC. I can't seem to get any higher than 4.2 with 103 multi. I am unfamiliar with the EUFI bios so I just used the ASUS auto-clock feature.

Also, could anyone tell me if using IGPU is even worth it, if so how do I work out the kinks,? I tried using it but it will not work in tandem with my gtx570.

Thank you.


----------



## itzzjason

Hi everyone. I want to buy this motherboard. But if the Thermalright Silver Arrow can't fit with the TUF armor on then I won't buy it.

Can the Silver Arrow fit on this board?


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzzjason*
> 
> Hi everyone. I want to buy this motherboard. But if the Thermalright Silver Arrow can't fit with the TUF armor on then I won't buy it.
> Can the Silver Arrow fit on this board?


Well a D14 fits with this motherboard, and I've seen someone who uses a Silver Arrow but points upwards.


----------



## NorxMAL

Do this motherboard have a temperature probe header? Are it able to control fan headers independently?


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorxMAL*
> 
> Do this motherboard have a temperature probe header? Are it able to control fan headers independently?


You can control fan headers independently, as well as the 2 assist fans. Or you can set a temperature curve for your fans, so only spin up at a certain degrees.


----------



## NorxMAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NorxMAL*
> 
> Do this motherboard have a temperature probe header? Are it able to control fan headers independently?
> 
> 
> 
> You can control fan headers independently, as well as the 2 assist fans. Or you can set a temperature curve for your fans, so only spin up at a certain degrees.
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> Well a D14 fits with this motherboard, and I've seen someone who uses a Silver Arrow but points upwards.


how is that possible, pics?


----------



## Adam Jenson

Can anyone help me out please! What are the main components that I should look out for, for when it comes to making sure that my system will be compatible? I don't know whether it should only be the Motherboard, Hard Drive, Power Supply, Graphics Card, Sound Card, Processor and Optical Drive.

I have researched online on many forums and people have said to mainly stick with a specific manufacturer. So far for my Graphics Card, Wireless Card and Motherboard is with Asus.

Graphics Card: Asus Nvidia Geforce GTX 560 Ti DirectCU II (2GB, GDDR5, mini HDMI, 2x DVI, Nvidia SLI Technology, Overlclock on arrival)
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth P67 1150 socket REV 3.0 ATX
Wireless Card: Asus N15 300mbps
Memory Module: Vegence Memory 16GB 4x

But for the Processor: Intel core i5 2300 2.8GHz, the Sound Card: is a Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE and the Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200rpm 16mb cache. And for the Optical Drive: LG BH08LS20 AUAR 8x internal BDRW Black.

I would just like to know if all these components are compatible. If any of you could help me with this I would really appreciate it!


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> Can anyone help me out please! What are the main components that I should look out for, for when it comes to making sure that my system will be compatible? I don't know whether it should only be the Motherboard, Hard Drive, Power Supply, Graphics Card, Sound Card, Processor and Optical Drive.
> I have researched online on many forums and people have said to mainly stick with a specific manufacturer. So far for my Graphics Card, Wireless Card and Motherboard is with Asus.
> Graphics Card: Asus Nvidia Geforce GTX 560 Ti DirectCU II (2GB, GDDR5, mini HDMI, 2x DVI, Nvidia SLI Technology, Overlclock on arrival)
> Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth P67 1150 socket REV 3.0 ATX
> Wireless Card: Asus N15 300mbps
> Memory Module: Vegence Memory 16GB 4x
> But for the Processor: Intel core i5 2300 2.8GHz, the Sound Card: is a Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE and the Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200rpm 16mb cache. And for the Optical Drive: LG BH08LS20 AUAR 8x internal BDRW Black.
> I would just like to know if all these components are compatible. If any of you could help me with this I would really appreciate it!


Sticking with the same manufacturer is not true. Every manufacturer is competing so you use their products and they will make it compatible with everyone else.

Your motherboard tells you what is compatible to anchor on it. You look in your motherboards manual to see it's memory QVL (Qualified vendor list) it lists all the tested and qualified memory product numbers (there are about 50+ memory they give you a guarantee it will be at advertised clock speed out of the box). Memory that is not listed there does work but lets stick to the basics.

The motherboard manual (which is also available for download from asus website) also tells you what CPU socket it supports and what generation of Pentiums. It also tells you what expansion slots you have on the motherboard. The only issue u will have with Video cards is if you want to use SLI or crossfire the motherboard chipset has to be capable of it, your power supply must give enough juice to your video card (650W PSU is more than enough for someone without SLI or crossfire), lastly make sure your video card fits in your case!

Hope this helps as a starting point!


----------



## Blatsz32

I dn't see an issue with compatibility at all. When I build my system I make sure that CPU matches the motherboard socket, and that all my hardware has drivers for my OS, Windows 7. Also check to make sure that you aren't buying an HDD or DVD-ROMs with IDE instead of SATA . I bought a mobo a few months ago and didn't look to see the placement of PCI-E and PCI legacy slots..after I had installed my 2 Asus GTX570 CU II I had no more expansion slots so I couldn't use my NIC card or sound card..so thats another thing to look out for. I am using the Corsair Vengeance 4x4gig modules on my mobo now, shoud be fine. What Gaunlet mentioned above about the PSU is important..make sure you have enough juice to run it. When I bought mine I asked the guy at my local PC shop and he suggested 750 watts after I told him what I had..I went with 850watts so I could expand and have peace of mind. Has this system that you mentioned already been built or are you buying all the components?

If you are about to buy all the components check out the IB 3570k i5, it's only a little more than the SB i5 2300. Supposedly there is a bios update for all 6 series mobos that enable you to use IB chips. Frankly I don't think it would hurt to look and see if you can get any "k" processor in your price range as you can overclock it for more performance.

Hope that help or is atleast close to the answer you need bud. Good Luck


----------



## Blatsz32

Oh one more thing..Just because something is all ASUS doesn't always mean it will perform better...It's like the AMD scorpious gimmick. Just cause it's all AMD it doesn't make it perform better than someone that has an Intel chip and chipset and an AMD card.

lol, i can't tell if that makes sense or not..basically, you are good to go on what you have bud. Just research a good PSU and if you can afford it a better cpu ( not that what you have chosen already is bad).


----------



## NorxMAL

You can find reviews for PSU's here and use the PSU Calculator which tells you how big of a PSU you really need


----------



## Z Overlord

So again, that big 'ol Noctua fan really fits on this board?


----------



## jmrios82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> So again, that big 'ol Noctua fan really fits on this board?


According to the Noctua NH D14 Mainboard Compatibility section, yes: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=34&lng=en#LGA1155_Asus


----------



## Adam Jenson

Thank you for the help! I know i'm gonna be abit rusty, but hopefully everything goes well.

Just could you help me out with knowing how much power would ONE of the Asus Nvidia Geforce GTX 560 Ti DirectCU II, GPU draw ?
cause for the power supply I was thinking of an Corsoir 650W Tx V2


----------



## Adam Jenson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Oh one more thing..Just because something is all ASUS doesn't always mean it will perform better...It's like the AMD scorpious gimmick. Just cause it's all AMD it doesn't make it perform better than someone that has an Intel chip and chipset and an AMD card.
> lol, i can't tell if that makes sense or not..basically, you are good to go on what you have bud. Just research a good PSU and if you can afford it a better cpu ( not that what you have chosen already is bad).


Thanks alot for the help too! I have an old Tiny desktop that goes all the way back to 2002 with an ATI Rodeon 9700 SE graphics card lol I'm hoping to get it from my family soon so i can open it up and have a browse around and fiddle. Hopefully it'll give me a better understanding with the interior of a PC. Also would the Corsoir 650W Tx V2 be able to cope with the parts that I've mentioned? especially the Graphics Card.

For the CPU is the i6 worth considering of buying? because I want this computer to be a "Bad Ass Mofo", Pulp Fiction style. But I am making sure that I don't jump the gun with anything. I don't want to sound like a complete noob where i'll just buy all the components and find out i've bought the wrong thing or need more of this or less of that. For my first time I'm trying to make it as flawless as possible.

Thats why I really appreciate all of your support!


----------



## NorxMAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Oh one more thing..Just because something is all ASUS doesn't always mean it will perform better...It's like the AMD scorpious gimmick. Just cause it's all AMD it doesn't make it perform better than someone that has an Intel chip and chipset and an AMD card.
> lol, i can't tell if that makes sense or not..basically, you are good to go on what you have bud. Just research a good PSU and if you can afford it a better cpu ( not that what you have chosen already is bad).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks alot for the help too! I have an old Tiny desktop that goes all the way back to 2002 with an ATI Rodeon 9700 SE graphics card lol I'm hoping to get it from my family soon so i can open it up and have a browse around and fiddle. Hopefully it'll give me a better understanding with the interior of a PC. Also would the Corsoir 650W Tx V2 be able to cope with the parts that I've mentioned? especially the Graphics Card.
> 
> For the CPU is the i6 worth considering of buying? because I want this computer to be a "Bad Ass Mofo", Pulp Fiction style. But I am making sure that I don't jump the gun with anything. I don't want to sound like a complete noob where i'll just buy all the components and find out i've bought the wrong thing or need more of this or less of that. For my first time I'm trying to make it as flawless as possible.
> 
> Thats why I really appreciate all of your support!
Click to expand...

As I have mentioned above, you can use PSU Calculator to find out how big PSU you need.

And here you can find plenty of reviews of PSU's


----------



## Adam Jenson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NorxMAL*
> 
> You can find reviews for PSU's here and use the PSU Calculator which tells you how big of a PSU you really need


OH ****, I missed your comment ><, thank you as well!







I'll check that now, much appreciated!


----------



## Elratauru

I have a little question about this Z77, how does a CoolerMaster V6GT fit on it? I kinda hope it does, I'm planning to jump on the Ivy Bridge wagon along with this one and I dont plan to sell my cooler yet.

Also, How's it about heat? I'm on a Antec 902 case, and I dont doubt its just fine, but I heard some bad things about the past Z68 Sabertooth about that and I was kinda worried.

Thanks~!


----------



## Adam Jenson

I'm just curious is there a processor cooler that doesn't require Thermal Paste? if there isn't is the better option to go for a water cooling system?


----------



## Adam Jenson

ALSO! if I get a water cooler does it need to have a socket 1155? because I'm going for a Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0)


----------



## darkphantom

Someone tell me the cons of owning this board, or any hiccups.

I'm seriously considering this, my 3770k coming on wednesday


----------



## crazedsilence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> I'm just curious is there a processor cooler that doesn't require Thermal Paste? if there isn't is the better option to go for a water cooling system?


To my knowledge, no. There are CPU coolers that come with thermal compound pre-applied, but a lot of people will recommend you to remove that and apply your own, better TIM. Also, a water cooling system still requires thermal compound (you have to put it between the CPU and the block), and if you're going custom it'll cost a lot more than an air cooler. You could take a look into Corsair's H-series coolers, a lot of people have them and swear by them


----------



## Blatsz32

"ALSO! if I get a water cooler does it need to have a socket 1155? because I'm going for a Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0)"

were you considering the closed water loop solution like an Antec 920 or an H100? If you are they come with the mounting hardware for the 1155 Socket. I also remember you mentioning that you had or considered a p68 Sabertooth, make sure there is a bios update for that board that lets you use the Ivy bridge processor. I believe there is but don't quote me on that.

If you are starting from scratch ditch the 6-Series motherboard and go with the 7-Series. It's made for Ivy bridge. Apart from not understanding and being a total noob with the EUFI bios this board is just awesome, the z77 Sabertooth. I think the price is the same if not just a tad bit more expensive. Well worth the extra duckets though. I am very very happy. Then again I'm coming from a Gigabyte 990fxa UD-7. Apples and Oranges IMHO..and I like Oranges ALOT better.


----------



## Adam Jenson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> "ALSO! if I get a water cooler does it need to have a socket 1155? because I'm going for a Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0)"
> were you considering the closed water loop solution like an Antec 920 or an H100? If you are they come with the mounting hardware for the 1155 Socket. I also remember you mentioning that you had or considered a p68 Sabertooth, make sure there is a bios update for that board that lets you use the Ivy bridge processor. I believe there is but don't quote me on that.
> If you are starting from scratch ditch the 6-Series motherboard and go with the 7-Series. It's made for Ivy bridge. Apart from not understanding and being a total noob with the EUFI bios this board is just awesome, the z77 Sabertooth. I think the price is the same if not just a tad bit more expensive. Well worth the extra duckets though. I am very very happy. Then again I'm coming from a Gigabyte 990fxa UD-7. Apples and Oranges IMHO..and I like Oranges ALOT better.


Thanks alot for the help! I did not know that the P67 Mobo would need a BIOS update to support the Ivy bridge processor. If I did get the z77 does it come with 1155 socket?
By the way I haven't got the parts yet, just doing my research before blowing my money without even thinking of how things work for a PC. I did look on the Asus website/BIOS updates and
there are so many! like for the Qualified Vendor List etc

I'm a little worried about the last part when I've finally installed everything on my system and the BIOS don't recognise the Drivers or GPU, CPU etc









It's crazy, I've just been educating myself throughout the last 2 days/day&night with different comments, reviews, videos etc and I finally feel like I'm getting somewhere now.
Planning always pays off.


----------



## Adam Jenson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazedsilence*
> 
> To my knowledge, no. There are CPU coolers that come with thermal compound pre-applied, but a lot of people will recommend you to remove that and apply your own, better TIM. Also, a water cooling system still requires thermal compound (you have to put it between the CPU and the block), and if you're going custom it'll cost a lot more than an air cooler. You could take a look into Corsair's H-series coolers, a lot of people have them and swear by them


Yeah I've been watching youtube vids and some guy was installing a Cooler Master Hyper 212, but are you on about the Corsair's CWCH60 water cooler? I had a look at it and it looks really sweet, also the quality of it and reviews are beyond good. Just I was looking at an image of it and I can't see the heatsink where you'd apply the Thermal Paste?!?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> I'm just curious is there a processor cooler that doesn't require Thermal Paste? if there isn't is the better option to go for a water cooling system?


Quote:


> LSO! if I get a water cooler does it need to have a socket 1155? because I'm going for a Intel 3rd Generation Core i5-3570K CPU (4 x 3.40GHz, Ivy Bridge, Socket 1155, 6Mb L3 Cache, Intel Turbo Boost Technology 2.0)


You need thermal paste in any cooling. Also if your not familiar with watercooling, I would learn before you do anything. Plus post in the correct forum section.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elratauru*
> 
> I have a little question about this Z77, how does a CoolerMaster V6GT fit on it? I kinda hope it does, I'm planning to jump on the Ivy Bridge wagon along with this one and I dont plan to sell my cooler yet.
> Also, How's it about heat? I'm on a Antec 902 case, and I dont doubt its just fine, but I heard some bad things about the past Z68 Sabertooth about that and I was kinda worried.
> Thanks~!


No problem fitting on the Sabertooth. Its like any other coolermaster heatsink.
If you can get a good airflow within your case, it will keep cpu/gpu cool.
The heat will come if you OC too high with higher voltage.
Havent heard bad things from the Z68 Saberooth, kinda being a little blind.


----------



## crazedsilence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> Yeah I've been watching youtube vids and some guy was installing a Cooler Master Hyper 212, but are you on about the Corsair's CWCH60 water cooler? I had a look at it and it looks really sweet, also the quality of it and reviews are beyond good. Just I was looking at an image of it and I can't see the heatsink where you'd apply the Thermal Paste?!?


The thermal paste goes on the CPU no matter what you put on it, so in the case of Corsair's H coolers (H60, H80, H100) it goes on the little block that you mount on your CPU.









Also, side question for anyone who can answer this:
Is this RAM - Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer - compatible with the Z77 Sabertooth? I'm looking at buying the Z77 in the next few weeks, downloaded the .pdf manual to look at the compatible RAM list, and these models were nowhere to be found. I plan on putting two of these kits on the board, for a total of 16GB. The specs for the RAM appear to be compatible with this motherboard, but am I missing anything here? Any help is awesome


----------



## Adam Jenson

What Thermal Paste would be good for the Corsair CWCH60 Water Cooler?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> What Thermal Paste would be good for the Corsair CWCH60 Water Cooler?


The H60 is not a good cooler. Its weak at cooling and not much better than most air coolers.For the price, its a waste.


----------



## Adam Jenson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The H60 is not a good cooler. Its weak at cooling and not much better than most air coolers.For the price, its a waste.


Thanks for telling me that. Quite suprised since the reviews are pretty decent. What about Corsair
CWCH100 Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance CPU Cooler? and if yes what Thermal Paste
would you recommend?

Also would the Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B 8GB 1600Mhz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance Memory Module Kit
be compatible with the Sabertooth z77


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> What Thermal Paste would be good for the Corsair CWCH60 Water Cooler?


I believe they come pre~applied


----------



## Adam Jenson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcyle*
> 
> I believe they come pre~applied


But arn't you supposed to remove the pre-applied paste after some time?


----------



## Adam Jenson

Also when it comes to applying the paste do you apply it only to the CPU heatsink or both heatsinks including the coolers?


----------



## darkphantom

for the TIM (thermal paste), i'd suggest the MX-5 or the Artic silver formula 7


----------



## Blatsz32

aGREED THE h60 ISN'T WORTH it for the price that you pay. Grab the H100 for sure. If the 240mm rad turns you off and you'd prefer not to mount the rad to the top of the case get an Antec 920 it comes bundled with some handy software. As far as Thermal paste go with Arctic Silver. It great paste and easy to work with.

If you want a "set it and forget it" video card go fo NVIDIA, their drivers are usually very stable and constantly evolving. AMD on the other hand seems to always have something wrong with their drivers and are slow to respond to them. This doesn't mean NVIDIA isn't without issues , it just means that NVIDIA addresses them quicker.

Yes the z77 Sabertooth is a 1155 Socket. Sandy and Ivy are both 1155 socket. Talk to your retailer about their return Policy. Microcenter has a great no questions asked return policy. A z77 Sabertooth and the i7 3770k ( from what I gathered you were getting) are a perfect match. You will not be disappointed in your purchase. As far as PSU , it may be over kill for what you are going to get at the beginning but i think 850 watts is perfect. It'll leave you room to upgrade to either a second card or more peripherals.


----------



## nova_prime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> Also when it comes to applying the paste do you apply it only to the CPU heatsink or both heatsinks including the coolers?


apply it on the cpu only...


----------



## Costfree

my sabertooth in a switch 810


----------



## Awful

Anyone know/think a Thermaltake Frio will fit (just temp until I get some more dimes saved up) planning to order the Z77 with my 3770k next week.


----------



## nova_prime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adam Jenson*
> 
> Thanks for telling me that. Quite suprised since the reviews are pretty decent. What about Corsair
> CWCH100 Hydro Series H100 Extreme Performance CPU Cooler? and if yes what Thermal Paste
> would you recommend?
> Also would the Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B 8GB 1600Mhz CL9 DDR3 Vengeance Memory Module Kit
> be compatible with the Sabertooth z77


those rams will work fine


----------



## Starlo77

Just wondering how everyone is going with the Ivy Bridge CPU's?

I'm just starting out and wanted to get a nice solid 4.5GHz over clock for everyday use just for gaming, not really worried about benckmarking to much.

Currently I'm at 1.256v @ 4.5GHz. CPU temps are between 60-65C on 100% load. Using a corsair H-80 for CPU cooling.

So my question is, what seems to be a good voltage for a 4.5GHz overclock? and my temps appear to be ok, what are others getting?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> my sabertooth in a switch 810


Nice, but what is with the tube behind the mobo tray?


----------



## HungryPillow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HungryPillow*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've placed my order and currently waiting for the Sabertooth + i5 3570K to arrive. I checked the Asus Z77 info thread and it has a very helpful list of items, but I just want to confirm what are the necessary drivers to install and which can I skip? I'm upgrading from an E6600 so I can't wait!
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> i5 3570K
> 16GB 1833 RAM
> 256GB Samsung 830 SSD
> Asus Xonar STX sound card
> DVD-RW drive
> ATI 5850 video card


Think my post got stuck on the bottom of one of the pages but I'm still looking for some help on this, thanks


----------



## Imploser

Hi everyone,

I going to buy a Z77 ASUS motherboard but i couldn't decide which one have to be mine =)
I would like to prefer Z77 Sabertooth but i concerned about 1866 Mhz memory limit in ASUS reference guide. Z77 Gene has 2800 Mhz memory support, Sabertooth has 1866 Mhz.
Why is that, is there anyone used upper 1866 Mhz memory with Sabertooth?

Thank you...


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imploser*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> I going to buy a Z77 ASUS motherboard but i couldn't decide which one have to be mine =)
> I would like to prefer Z77 Sabertooth but i concerned about 1866 Mhz memory limit in ASUS reference guide. Z77 Gene has 2800 Mhz memory support, Sabertooth has 1866 Mhz.
> Why is that, is there anyone used upper 1866 Mhz memory with Sabertooth?
> Thank you...


If you go to G.Skills website and look up compatible mother boards, the Sabertooth is listed to handle up to 2600 MHz. I'm running 2400 MHz on my mother board.

Intel says only up to 1600 MHz for the Ivy CPU but its only because they consider anything above 1600 MHz as over clocking.

The Trident X is Z77 & Ivy ready for XMP 1.3 capable perfomance.


----------



## Zantrill

If this is a club, OP needs to add names to the first post. Yesterday I ordered this board and the 3570K. Will post pic when it arrives.


----------



## Blatsz32

hey Hungry Pillow...you'll have to install all the mobo drivers that come with the disk, then you'll have to install the soundcard and VGA drivers. Make sure to install the mobo drivers or you won't be able to use the net


----------



## radar54

Hi,

I'm putting a Sabertooth Z77 system together and want either 8GB or 16GB of g.skill RAM but don't know what is compatible because I can't find Asus's QVL for this motherboard. I also plan to use either a CoolerMaster TPC-812 or a Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler, so RAM height is an issue. Finally, I would like to overclock using Asus' AI software (i.e., nothing real aggressive - somewhere around 4GHz).

Can someone tell me which g.skill RAM is compatible. I prefer either 2x4GB, 4x4GB, or 2x8GB solutions.

Thanks,
radar


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm putting a Sabertooth Z77 system together and want either 8GB or 16GB of g.skill RAM but don't know what is compatible because I can't find Asus's QVL for this motherboard. I also plan to use either a CoolerMaster TPC-812 or a Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler, so RAM height is an issue. Finally, I would like to overclock using Asus' AI software (i.e., nothing real aggressive - somewhere around 4GHz).
> Can someone tell me which g.skill RAM is compatible. I prefer either 2x4GB, 4x4GB, or 2x8GB solutions.
> Thanks,
> radar


corsair


----------



## Viesta

Hey! Just got my Sabertooh z77









I got 2x 4gb G.SKill ram. Do I put it into slots 2 and 4 ??


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viesta*
> 
> Hey! Just got my Sabertooh z77
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 2x 4gb G.SKill ram. Do I put it into slots 2 and 4 ??


Yes counting from the CPU as # 1.


----------



## Viesta

ok and the tiny assistant fan on the side, do I make the sabertooth logo face outwards? i believe that means it's an Intake fan ?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viesta*
> 
> ok and the tiny assistant fan on the side, do I make the sabertooth logo face outwards? i believe that means it's an Intake fan ?


Affectionately known as push or pull fans. The sabertooth manual suggests that you use them both as push fans where air is being pushed into the protective thermal armor. If you notice the armor has exhaust grids / vents that allow air to come out.

Some people use the top fan as a push fan and that side fan as a pull fan. I've not tried it so I'm not sure if that lowers temps any better if it was push and pull rather than both being push. Since I'm not sure on how much air is actually going through the boards to both sides of the thermal armor I've got them both as push fans.

If you can see the sabertooth logo on the mini fan facing you that means it's being used as a push fan. The side fan the logo facing outward so you can see it from the side is also push fan.


----------



## Imploser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> If you go to G.Skills website and look up compatible mother boards, the Sabertooth is listed to handle up to 2600 MHz. I'm running 2400 MHz on my mother board.
> Intel says only up to 1600 MHz for the Ivy CPU but its only because they consider anything above 1600 MHz as over clocking.
> The Trident X is Z77 & Ivy ready for XMP 1.3 capable perfomance.


Thank you for answering me, that helps me a lot. But that is not only Intel thing, Asus explained the other Z77 boards 2800 Mhz(OC), Sabertooth is explained 1866Mhz only. I think this is explanation or warranty issue. Sabertooth has 5 years warranty, maybe upper 1866 Mhz identified out of warranty.


----------



## Arizonian

I'm not sure if they can even see what speed RAM your using, if you were to return their motherboard for an RMA. If they shoukd ask you when you call for the warranty just tell him it was 1600 MHz.


----------



## majnu

what is the latest bios for this board? It would be nice if the OP kept the first post up to date with this info.


----------



## Chameleon114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chameleon114*
> 
> Greetings Sabertooth Z77 owners. I was wondering if any of you happen to own a Mad Catz Tournament Edition Arcade Stick for the PS3 and have been able to get it to work with this Z77 board. I have a Gigabyte Z77 board, and the stick shows up but none of the buttons register so I'm wondering if this Asus board with a different USB controller has any better luck. Thanks in advance.


If someone would let me know if they got a madcatz ps3 tournament edition arcade stick to work on this board, that would be awesome. I'm thinking it's a Z77 thing, but if it's a board thing I'll jump ship.


----------



## Blatsz32

906 is the latest bios Majnu


----------



## brothergc

I am considering this motherboard and wondering if I paired it up with a 2550 sandy and a nvidia 560TI would I still be able to get into the bios seeing that the 2550 has no intergrated GPU . also concerned that their are USB issues setting up windows as a few have posted, My main concern as I have posted is the ability to configure the motherboard to use only my 560TI graphics card


----------



## baboyizm

I just ordered mine to go with a I5-3570K. I'm upgrading from a PII 955.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baboyizm*
> 
> I just ordered mine to go with a I5-3570K. I'm upgrading from a PII 955.


you won't regret it one bit. I have this board and chip. I've upgraded from an 1100tx6 and the Fx-8150 booth used on a Gigabyte 99fxa-ud7...I am very happy


----------



## Viesta

Gaaaah, that little accessory fan in the middle front is annoying, it has a high pitched noise







I may have to remove it.


----------



## Blatsz32

Here is a manual for those wondering, like me, how to overclock with the UEFI bios. It's in a PDF format.

http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Well done, Z77 Sabertooth + 3570k. Performace right now is not bad. Much more snappier than the X6.
Gaming is next for testing.

I might take back the 3570k for the 3770k. I might need the HT later on for video editing, but wont do that for at least 6-8 months.


----------



## joeboey

Just ordered my first gaming rig though have been assembling stuff on and off for over a decade...

Must confess that the new ravishing Asus sabertooth z77 is the one who actually got me started into going for this..

New Stuff Ordered:
CPU: i7 2600k
MB: Asus Sabertooth z77
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 4Gbx2

What I already have:
Graphics: Radeon 4870 512MB
SMPS: Corsair 450VX

Now wondering whether the old would work with the new!? :/

What do you think?


----------



## joeboey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeboey*
> 
> Just ordered my first gaming rig though have been assembling stuff on and off for over a decade...
> Must confess that the new ravishing Asus sabertooth z77 is the one who actually got me started into going for this..
> New Stuff Ordered:
> CPU: i7 2600k
> MB: Asus Sabertooth z77
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 4Gbx2
> What I already have:
> Graphics: Radeon 4870 512MB
> SMPS: Corsair 450VX
> Now wondering whether the old would work with the new!? :/
> What do you think?


would the air cooling coming with the i7 be fine... or is water cooling a must?


----------



## Tslm

Hey all, im looking at buying this board to go with an 3570k but am wondering about the thermal armor and fans.

I'd like to keep the armor on but am concerned about the intake fan next to the CPU clogging everything with dust seeing as it has no filter. Two options are 1. making the fan draw air out of the case or 2. just passively cooling the board. I'm fine with passive cooling but would that mean Id have to take the armor off?

Thanks


----------



## Terronium-12

You can leave the armor as is, the effects the fans would have on the board would be negligible at best in the likeliest of circumstances.

Also, new guy here *waves* I'm also putting a system together the Sabertooth (board is already on-hand), 3570K, and some 12 gig G.Skill Snipers (also on-hand). Once I get the 3570 in my hands it is on! I think I'm going to miss my old Q6600 once I've made the move.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I do have a big issue. The CPU_OPT header is not working.
With the Q-Fan disabled and no fan plugged in, while booting I get CPU Fan error.
I plugged in 2 fans to each fan header and in the bios shows both fan speeds.
The Q-Fan section only shows CPU_FAN, but no option to control CPU_OPT.

Fan Expert and Thermal Armor do not work to control the CPU Header. I also did the Auto Fan test, and no option to control the fans.
I did a bios update to newest, still no Q-Fan option for CPU_OPT.
Even did a reset.

Fan is always at 100%, which defeats to have a silent system at night.


----------



## HungryPillow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> hey Hungry Pillow...you'll have to install all the mobo drivers that come with the disk, then you'll have to install the soundcard and VGA drivers. Make sure to install the mobo drivers or you won't be able to use the net


Thanks. So even though I have a sound card and graphics card, I still need to install audio/graphics drivers for the motherboard/cpu? How about Virtu? And would I need to install both the Intel and ASMedia USB 3.0 drivers?


----------



## Rayleyne

My sabertooth and 3770k should be here tommorow, Wonder if it comes with the assist fans, i'll probly need them since i run water..., ALSO i have two choices, Get my second waterblock for my second 7970 this week, And don't see avengers till next week, Or see avengers this week and get the block next week.


----------



## Outcasst

Just received my sabertooth!

Are there any adverse effects if I plug my sound card in to the bottom x4 PCI-E? I read on some other boards you can lose USB 3.0 functionality or something?


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Just received my sabertooth!
> Are there any adverse effects if I plug my sound card in to the bottom x4 PCI-E? I read on some other boards you can lose USB 3.0 functionality or something?


you'll be fine

i have my stx in there right now


----------



## MoYu

Im just wondering what is better, the on-board sound or ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channel PCI Sound Card 24BIT Dolby Digital DTS 105DB SNR W/ Headphone AMP


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> My sabertooth and 3770k should be here tommorow, Wonder if it comes with the assist fans, i'll probly need them since i run water..., ALSO i have two choices, Get my second waterblock for my second 7970 this week, And don't see avengers till next week, Or see avengers this week and get the block next week.


It does include them. I run a near-silent system and their noise, even at minimum fan speed was noticeable to me. Without them my voltage circuitry crept up into the mid 50s (C), and that was a bit warmer than I would have liked to see.

Also, I hear Avengers is good... I'm going to go see it this weekend


----------



## brothergc

"I am considering this motherboard and wondering if I paired it up with a 2550 sandy and a nvidia 560TI would I still be able to get into the bios seeing that the 2550 has no intergrated GPU . also concerned that their are USB issues setting up windows as a few have posted, My main concern as I have posted is the ability to configure the motherboard to use only my 560TI graphics card "

posted this a few pages ago , so if no one knows then this sabertooth is a no go , see no point in intel crappy graphics when most any add on card will blow away anything intels got so if I cant disable the intel graphics then forget this board bigtime !!


----------



## Zantrill

well, my board was in stock when ordered. now they say it's out of stock and will probably ship friday. blah...


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I do have a big issue. The CPU_OPT header is not working.
> With the Q-Fan disabled and no fan plugged in, while booting I get CPU Fan error.
> I plugged in 2 fans to each fan header and in the bios shows both fan speeds.
> The Q-Fan section only shows CPU_FAN, but no option to control CPU_OPT.
> Fan Expert and Thermal Armor do not work to control the CPU Header. I also did the Auto Fan test, and no option to control the fans.
> I did a bios update to newest, still no Q-Fan option for CPU_OPT.
> Even did a reset.
> Fan is always at 100%, which defeats to have a silent system at night.


Did you want to use both those headers? If not there is an option in the Monitor part of the bios that disables it. When I first started the board I got the F1 error halt as well. I just set it to ignore..most likely a bios setting causeing you probs. The amnt of control you have on this boards ability to cool is staggering. If it's not an issue that you can fix in the bios then you might have to reinstall AI II or ....







rma. Try bios before anything drastic.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brothergc*
> 
> "I am considering this motherboard and wondering if I paired it up with a 2550 sandy and a nvidia 560TI would I still be able to get into the bios seeing that the 2550 has no intergrated GPU . also concerned that their are USB issues setting up windows as a few have posted, My main concern as I have posted is the ability to configure the motherboard to use only my 560TI graphics card "
> posted this a few pages ago , so if no one knows then this sabertooth is a no go , see no point in intel crappy graphics when most any add on card will blow away anything intels got so if I cant disable the intel graphics then forget this board bigtime !!


There should be no issue configuring it at all. I plugged my cards in and it automatically went straight to the PCI boot. There are options to chose you IGPU or discreet GPU. The onlly issue i've had with a USB is the AI Suites USB3 Boost. I set it to boost and it hangs on load...I disabled the option and all is good now


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoYu*
> 
> Im just wondering what is better, the on-board sound or ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channel PCI Sound Card 24BIT Dolby Digital DTS 105DB SNR W/ Headphone AMP


Unlike my last board I've had no issues with the onboard sound what so ever...but I'm stil going to get a sound card. I have the room, y not


----------



## brothergc

opps changed my mind , 240 bucks for a motherboard they gotta be kidding , how do they justify that cost ? and I am hearing bad things about asus costomer service , so no asus for me


----------



## Ferboten

I've been working on overclocking my 3570K with this board but seem to have hit a wall. I can hit 4.6GHz stable with 1.335 VCore and LLC at Ultra-High, but when I try for 4.7 I get BSOD codes suggesting VCCIO is the issue, but I can't find the VCCIO setting in the UEFI. Is there anything that can be done about this? I had similar issues at lower clocks and raising VCore seemed to fix it, but I don't want to go over 1.35v (not sure what's considered 24/7 safe yet). Temps top out at 81C in Prime95, with a NH-D14 cooler.


----------



## Imploser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I'm not sure if they can even see what speed RAM your using, if you were to return their motherboard for an RMA. If they shoukd ask you when you call for the warranty just tell him it was 1600 MHz.


I know, full capacity RMAs understand which frequecies are applied. Only small technical agencies may noy understand that. I read a few QVL and i see having 2800 Mhz support QVL, supported more ram type. 1866 Mhz support QVL supported less ram type and limited frequency such as 2400 Mhz. I think this is explanation type of Asus, but wrong one


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Did you want to use both those headers? If not there is an option in the Monitor part of the bios that disables it. When I first started the board I got the F1 error halt as well. I just set it to ignore..most likely a bios setting causeing you probs. The amnt of control you have on this boards ability to cool is staggering. If it's not an issue that you can fix in the bios then you might have to reinstall AI II or ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rma. Try bios before anything drastic.


I talked to Asus, said to RMA. Sucks.


----------



## LuckySevn

Count me in~!



Not sure if any of you have experienced this, but after finishing building it, the CPU multi would not go past x35 no matter what. Couldn't find any info anywhere. Finally on Monday night, I decided to reflash the BIOS (it came with 0906). And that did it. So if anyone get a similar problem, where your CPU just won't OC, try reflashing the BIOS to the latest one. Chances are that'll fix it.


----------



## Arizonian

Speaking of the little mother board fans.

1. Is there a way to turn down the RPM's on those little suckers?

The loudest noise from my system is those little fans with tiny whirl noise going. I'm not sure I'd want to remove them or disable them based on the fact the heat would be trapped in the thermal armor and raise temps.

2. If I did turn them off do you think that temps would really rise much at all to make a difference?

3. Anyone else have them turned off or not installed at all?


----------



## Viesta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Speaking of the little mother board fans.
> 1. Is there a way to turn down the RPM's on those little suckers?
> The loudest noise from my system is those little fans with tiny whirl noise going. I'm not sure I'd want to remove them or disable them based on the fact the heat would be trapped in the thermal armor and raise temps.
> 2. If I did turn them off do you think that temps would really rise much at all to make a difference?
> 3. Anyone else have them turned off or not installed at all?


I would also like to know.

I think you can change accessory fan speed in bios
and why don't you unplug them and check temps yourself


----------



## darkphantom

Gents:


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> my old set up
> Speaking of the little mother board fans.
> 1. Is there a way to turn down the RPM's on those little suckers?
> The loudest noise from my system is those little fans with tiny whirl noise going. I'm not sure I'd want to remove them or disable them based on the fact the heat would be trapped in the thermal armor and raise temps.
> 2. If I did turn them off do you think that temps would really rise much at all to make a difference?
> 3. Anyone else have them turned off or not installed at all?


isn't there a profile in the ASUS FanXpert that slows it down..only thing is it slows down all the other ones to. Try FanXpert..or did you already?

So, gang, I ran into my first gripe about this board..I have 2 Asus GTX570 CU II, the triple slotters I know this board isn't an eATX board but I'm so bummed that ASUS wouldn't think about the fact that their fanboys would want to fit 2 of their bestly triple slotters into this board. It need a bit more real estate. Just a bit. I hit 90c on my top card playing BF3 at Ultra for 2 hours. I ended up using the last PCIe lane, it's a tight squeeze with my fans, usb and power connectors. Oh well..STILL LOVE THIS BOARD.
I'll add more pics of my CM Storm Trooper beast soon


----------



## Arizonian

When I tried to use ASUS FanXpert - it was incompatible with the new ASUS Z77 mother board and would not allow me to down load it. I loved it with my X58 Sabertooth. It controlled chassis and CPU fans.

I'm new to UEFI BIOS and was wondering if there is a place in there? Have been very busy working and side jobs on Saturdays. On the side F5 smashing just about 24/7 hunting down a GTX 690 since last weekend. Finally scored earlier this afternoon from my iPhone.









If anyone know's, I'd truly appreciate it. I'm sure it will be a great help with other Z77 Sabertooth owners as well.









@ Blatsz32 - The Sabertooth PCIe slots have always had to sandwich two GPU's together. At least my last X58 and this Z77 boards did. It covers the PCIe slot for a dedicated sound card or TV Tuner option if you should.

Hence why a dual GPU might be a great idea for those interested in going SLI. Yes it's not exactly the same performance of two in SLI but the trade offs, PCIe space, temps, and lower power consumption (for those PSU limited). Anyone thinking of going GTX 690 trying a dual GPU for the first time, there's no better time than this one. It comes within 2%-6% of SLI performance. The best scaling on dual GPU ever. I'll take slightly less performance as a trade off for the benefits I'll gain.

There's always the enthusist that can have the option to actually get close to qaud performance with two dual GPU's with the limited space in our boards as well.


----------



## Blatsz32

"When I tried to use ASUS FanXpert - it was incompatible with the new ASUS Z77"

I'm using FanXpert..have you downloaded the new updated utilities from the ASUS site.?

my PCIe switch up didn't work..so bummed. I guess I gotta buy GPU water blocks....









http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


----------



## Zantrill

board should be here monday


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*












p.s. don't lose any screws in the armor, ***** to take out. (hint: magnetic screw driver!!!)


----------



## REWGator

First post! Been reading tons of great advice across the forum here and based alot of my build on it. Thanks in advance for that. I'm upgrading from my first build, which I put together five years ago. It's an old powerhouse that has worked great for me without a single issue, built around the ASUS RoG Striker Extreme. That board did everything I could ever ask of it, so naturally I gravitated to the newest and baddest ASUS board when I decided to join the current generation. I'm going from an E6850 and a GTS 8800 on the Striker X to a z77 Sabertooth with a 3770K and a GTX 680. Needless to say, I'm extremely excited to get started.









I just got the last of my components in the mail, but before I put it all together, I wanted to clear up a question I had about the airflow when using the TUF Armor and the accessory fans on the board. My old box was a front intake, rear exhaust air cooled system in an Antec 900. It was incredibly cool for what I did with it, and I wanted to make sure that I got everything I can out of the set up this time around, also.

Is there a consensus on how to set up the case fans and the accessory fans to provide the best air flow? I see that ASUS recommends using the accessory fans to push, but I really don't like the idea of reversing my case fans and drawing air in from the rear - my desk is in a corner, with the rear opening for the case up against a window, and I live in Florida. I think it'd work out much better pulling cool air from the front, where the air conditioner vent aims at my intake, than it would be pulling air from the rear, where the sun hits the window during the day.

To compound the issue, I went ahead and bought an H80 to cool, so I have to decide how to configure those fans also. I've seen several people argue for each configuration in the cooling subforums, but no one really mentioned coupling the H80 with a Sabertooth. Should I reverse the case fans, the accessory fans, or neither?

Basically, I'm overthinking this incredibly and I was just curious if any of you could talk me down.









My case is the Corsair 500R.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REWGator*
> 
> First post! Been reading tons of great advice across the forum here and based alot of my build on it. Thanks in advance for that. I'm upgrading from my first build, which I put together five years ago. It's an old powerhouse that has worked great for me without a single issue, built around the ASUS RoG Striker Extreme. That board did everything I could ever ask of it, so naturally I gravitated to the newest and baddest ASUS board when I decided to join the current generation. I'm going from an E6850 and a GTS 8800 on the Striker X to a z77 Sabertooth with a 3770K and a GTX 680. Needless to say, I'm extremely excited to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got the last of my components in the mail, but before I put it all together, I wanted to clear up a question I had about the airflow when using the TUF Armor and the accessory fans on the board. My old box was a front intake, rear exhaust air cooled system in an Antec 900. It was incredibly cool for what I did with it, and I wanted to make sure that I got everything I can out of the set up this time around, also.
> Is there a consensus on how to set up the case fans and the accessory fans to provide the best air flow? I see that ASUS recommends using the accessory fans to push, but I really don't like the idea of reversing my case fans and drawing air in from the rear - my desk is in a corner, with the rear opening for the case up against a window, and I live in Florida. I think it'd work out much better pulling cool air from the front, where the air conditioner vent aims at my intake, than it would be pulling air from the rear, where the sun hits the window during the day.
> To compound the issue, I went ahead and bought an H80 to cool, so I have to decide how to configure those fans also. I've seen several people argue for each configuration in the cooling subforums, but no one really mentioned coupling the H80 with a Sabertooth. Should I reverse the case fans, the accessory fans, or neither?
> Basically, I'm overthinking this incredibly and I was just curious if any of you could talk me down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My case is the Corsair 500R.


Well welcome aboard to the club and OCN.









The verdict on the fans isn't out yet. I've got mine as push as the manual sugessted. Personally I'd like to disable them. Funny how the smallest fans in my case are the loudest little whirling going on in there.

The other way I almost went was push on the top and pull out the side through the IO. No one has run tests or we haven't compared temps as of yet. We're all pretty new with Z77 as well.

Very nice upgrade and night and day difference where your coming from.







Welcome back to high end perfomance and even more so to OCN. Be forewarned, there's no word as 'overkill' on this site. It's the norm.


----------



## Imploser

@Arizonian

Have you tried Thermal Radar before? It achieves to obtain as your choices to create your own fan profiles.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

whew just finished assembling. I did run into a problem that my H100 in a push pull config is in a tight fit with the 6 motherboard power cable in my Cosmos II case. I hope I don't damage the cable it is pressed up against it.

Other than that I'm having a hard time finding a overclocking guide that is specific to the sabertooth Bios.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imploser*
> 
> @Arizonian
> Have you tried Thermal Radar before? It achieves to obtain as your choices to create your own fan profiles.


I saw that new feature. I just thought it had to do with temps. Thanks for pointing that out.









Will definetely be delving into the mother boards features soon. Haven't got around to much as of yet since finishing the install.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> whew just finished assembling. I did run into a problem that my H100 in a push pull config is in a tight fit with the 6 motherboard power cable in my Cosmos II case. I hope I don't damage the cable it is pressed up against it.
> Other than that I'm having a hard time finding a overclocking guide that is specific to the sabertooth Bios.


I posted a guide a few osts back dealing with OC on z77 UEFI bios, not sure if other ASUS Z77 bios are diffrent but it might help. I'm stumped with OC myself in that OC I'm in essence raising the turbo function and not the processor its self..either way its very diffrent than my AMD 990fx bios. In the 990fx the multiplier and FSB was clearly written, in this bios is not hazy but not clear either.


----------



## Blatsz32

New Bios just came out today gang :

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1015
1.Improve Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

Here is link to ASUS site: http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> New Bios just came out today gang :
> SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1015
> 1.Improve Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> Here is link to ASUS site: http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


Ezflash is so easy to use that I dont mind updating my bios anymore


----------



## Outcasst

Got my Sabertooth build set up and running nicely. Had some problems with SSD compatibility but a firmware upgrade sorted that out.

Here's a picture:



I like how the flash of blue on the RAM and green on the cards represents Intel + Nvidia


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Got my Sabertooth build set up and running nicely. Had some problems with SSD compatibility but a firmware upgrade sorted that out.
> Here's a picture:


wow, I didn't think blue sticks would look good with this board. But it looks pretty dang good. Also it gives me an idea what sli 680's look like on the sabertooth. (and the H100) Thanks for the photo.


----------



## Groto

Will the Z77 Asus Sabertooth board work with the thermalright silver arrow or silver arrow-e? I will be using a silverstone FT02 case. I would like to get ram with the large heatspreaders because it looks cool and cost the same as much of the low profile ram. Would I be able to fit corsair vengeance RAM on the board with this heatsink if I use slots 2 and 4 for the ram instead of 1 and 3? Is there any downside to not using 1 and 3 as primary?
Am I only limited to low profile RAM?
I would appreciate any thoughts on this. Thanks


----------



## ckenda1

Add me to the list of Sabertooth Z77 owners.

I have a 3770k installed running at 4.6GHz at 1.216 volts.



Settings are as follows:

AI Overclock Tuner: X.M.P.
Turbo Ratio: Manual
Ratio Synchronizing Control: Enabled
(1-4) Core Ratio Limit: 46
Internal PLL Overvoltage: Enabled
Memory Frequency: DDR3-2400
CPU Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: -
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.015

This completes 20 runs of IBT at Maximum and will run Prime95 for hours.

I think I ended up with a pretty nice chip and this board is great!

Now to decide on a 4GB EVGA Superclocked+ GTX 670 or a 4GB EVGA GTW GTX 680?!


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckenda1*
> 
> Add me to the list of Sabertooth Z77 owners.
> I have a 3770k installed running at 4.6GHz at 1.216 volts.
> 
> Settings are as follows:
> AI Overclock Tuner: X.M.P.
> Turbo Ratio: Manual
> Ratio Synchronizing Control: Enabled
> (1-4) Core Ratio Limit: 46
> Internal PLL Overvoltage: Enabled
> Memory Frequency: DDR3-2400
> CPU Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
> CPU Current Capability: 140%
> CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
> Offset Mode Sign: -
> CPU Offset Voltage: 0.015
> This completes 20 runs of IBT at Maximum and will run Prime95 for hours.
> I think I ended up with a pretty nice chip and this board is great!
> Now to decide on a 4GB EVGA Superclocked+ GTX 670 or a 4GB EVGA GTW GTX 680?!


Thanks for sharing your settings.

I'm trying to OC with Turbo Evo



As you can see my Vcore runs hot for some reason. I don't know if that is normal or not. Should I bring down my Vcore like you have?


----------



## McDown

The last run before I sell my Saber


----------



## id_mew

I have a big problem. So today I picked up my Sabertooth Z77 and I started upgrading from my old rig.
Took a couple of hours, and finally when I was ready to plug in my DVD drive, I found out there's no IDE port on the motherboard.
So now I can't install my operating stystem or do anything.
is there a solution for this other than getting a new drive with Sata?
I never use my drive to install anything, so it's a waist to buy a new one
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> The last run before I sold my Saber


Why did you sale your Sabertooth?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I have a big problem. So today I picked up my Sabertooth Z77 and I started upgrading from my old rig.
> Took a couple of hours, and finally when I was ready to plug in my DVD drive, I found out there's no IDE port on the motherboard.
> So now I can't install my operating stystem or do anything.
> is there a solution for this other than getting a new drive with Sata?
> I never use my drive to install anything, so it's a waist to buy a new one
> Thanks in advance.


Buy a new dvd sata drive. there cheap for under $20.

You can install the OS via USB drive and all drivers from the web.

Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool
http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool

Official Windows 7 SP1 ISO
http://www.mydigitallife.info/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-from-digital-river

You download the ISO, use the software to convert the ISO to USB bootable format so you can Install the OS.


----------



## Arizonian

OK starting to fool around in the UEFI BIOS. Updated the BIOS to 1015 May 2, 2012 update. ALL good there.

Overclocking n00b here with this CPU and UEFI. Going to take some time. I've got the XMP profile with 2400 MHz RAM and 4.200 CPU. Going to take it slow. When I tried 4.500 it crashed. I'm sure I don't have all my settings correct either.

Turbo Boost is on and so is Speed Step both enabled atm. Not sure what to do with that.



Going to run like this for a while to see how it turns out. GTX 690 should be arriving tomorrow.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Buy a new dvd sata drive. there cheap for under $20.
> You can install the OS via USB drive and all drivers from the web.
> Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool
> http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool
> Official Windows 7 SP1 ISO
> http://www.mydigitallife.info/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-from-digital-river
> You download the ISO, use the software to convert the ISO to USB bootable format so you can Install the OS.


That makes life alot easier.
Thank you for this helpful rely.
+1 rep


----------



## OcTroll

This is my first post here and wanted to let you know that I have just received my Z77 Sabertooth and 3770k!
There might be a not of noob questions coming out of me, so I apologize ahead of time. While searching for a cooler to get for this set up, I have found that most people get the H100.

I want to order mine today and was wondering if I should run it stock or spend some extra money and get additional fans for it?
Please advise on what fans work best/value. I have the HAF X case

I cant wait to order more parts and start my first real OC!

Look forward to hearing from everyone!


----------



## id_mew

I'm really confused from all these sata ports on the saber.
I have an Intel SSD as my boot drive and a one drive as my storage.
Do I plug in my SSD in the 6/G brown intel sata port and my storage drive in the 3/G brown intel sata port?
I'm such confused wether to use the 6gig sata port or the 3gig sata port.
and witch Sata port does a DVD drive go into?
Thank you all.


----------



## Viesta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I'm really confused from all these sata ports on the saber.
> I have an Intel SSD as my boot drive and a one drive as my storage.
> Do I plug in my SSD in the 6/G brown intel sata port and my storage drive in the 3/G brown intel sata port?
> I'm such confused wether to use the 6gig sata port or the 3gig sata port.
> and witch Sata port does a DVD drive go into?
> Thank you all.


I thought the brown and white are both 6gb/s, and the black is 3g/sec

My plan was to put my SSD and 1TB HDD both into the Brown plugs, and my CD/DVD drive into the Black plugs.

Those are the only sata connections I have.


----------



## iARDAs

Guys add me to the club









I just purchased my board but i will be able to install it on July 3rd









Few questions i would like to ask

1-) Do i need to format my PC or something to make the new motherboard work well?

2-) is there a guide that you know of which shows step by step how to install this motherboard?

3-) Would my zalman CNPS 11x CPU cooler with well?

4-) I have a Asus p8z68v-le motherboard. It has UEFI. Is it the same as the one which is in sabertooth z77?

5-) Is it easy to OC this motherboard?

6-) I have 2 Corsair 4gb rams at 1600 mhz. Would they be good with this motherboard. I also have a if 2500k and at the moment have a 590 gtx but probably change it with a 670 SLI or 680 SLI.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Guys add me to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased my board but i will be able to install it on July 3rd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few questions i would like to ask
> 
> 1-) Do i need to format my PC or something to make the new motherboard work well?
> 
> *Clean format is always recommended, but not required*
> 
> 2-) is there a guide that you know of which shows step by step how to install this motherboard?
> 
> *Installation is easy peasy lemon squeezy. Just install the mini-fans on the mobo in the 2 spots, rest is as simple as screwing in the mobo to the chassis (don't forget the I/O plate!)*
> 
> 3-) Would my zalman CNPS 11x CPU cooler with well?
> *
> Not sure how big it is, but I think it should be fine. Just get the measurements and compare it to the placement on the board w/ the thermal armor.*
> 
> 4-) I have a Asus p8z68v-le motherboard. It has UEFI. Is it the same as the one which is in sabertooth z77?
> *
> not sure if it is the same, but it has UEFI.
> *
> 5-) Is it easy to OC this motherboard?
> *lots of option with an asus optimal, so I would assume yes. Will try today, but need find a guide first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 6-) I have 2 Corsair 4gb rams at 1600 mhz. Would they be good with this motherboard. I also have a if 2500k and at the moment have a 590 gtx but probably change it with a 670 SLI or 680 SLI.
> *Sounds like a good setup, you should be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


good luck!


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcTroll*
> 
> This is my first post here and wanted to let you know that I have just received my Z77 Sabertooth and 3770k!
> There might be a not of noob questions coming out of me, so I apologize ahead of time. While searching for a cooler to get for this set up, I have found that most people get the H100.
> I want to order mine today and was wondering if I should run it stock or spend some extra money and get additional fans for it?
> Please advise on what fans work best/value. I have the HAF X case
> I cant wait to order more parts and start my first real OC!
> Look forward to hearing from everyone!


I was in the same boat. This is also my first OC. I made sure that the H100 would fit my case and I had enough motherboard clearance from the 6 pin power cable at the top of the motherboard. I barely got it in there. I setup my H100 in a push pull config. I have 2 vortex's below and 2 on top. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002

The stock fans are noisy and have a low CFM. There are 2 other fans other than the vortex's that people on these forums put on their H100. A little searching and you will find them.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viesta*
> 
> I thought the brown and white are both 6gb/s, and the black is 3g/sec
> My plan was to put my SSD and 1TB HDD both into the Brown plugs, and my CD/DVD drive into the Black plugs.
> Those are the only sata connections I have.


If your drive can exceed the SATA II interface (anything over 300mbps transfer speeds) then yes plug it in SATA III (600mbps max transfer)

I would use the brown SATA III's for hard-drives and all my peripherals on the black. I would only use the white ones once my brown ones are used up for hard drives. The brown is intels controller the white is ASmedia controller.


----------



## OcTroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> I was in the same boat. This is also my first OC. I made sure that the H100 would fit my case and I had enough motherboard clearance from the 6 pin power cable at the top of the motherboard. I barely got it in there. I setup my H100 in a push pull config. I have 2 vortex's below and 2 on top. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002
> The stock fans are noisy and have a low CFM. There are 2 other fans other than the vortex's that people on these forums put on their H100. A little searching and you will find them.


Thanks,

I was thinking of getting the Vortex's like other have said. Do you have the fans bringing in air through the radiator or pushing air out of the case?

Can anyone post any other fans that make more sense to get or setting up with a HAF X?

Also, what decent wireless keyboard/mouse combos are people using for their set ups?


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> If your drive can exceed the SATA II interface (anything over 300mbps transfer speeds) then yes plug it in SATA III (600mbps max transfer)
> I would use the brown SATA III's for hard-drives and all my peripherals on the black. I would only use the white ones once my brown ones are used up for hard drives. The brown is intels controller the white is ASmedia controller.


That cleared things up a bit. I guess ill plug my ssd and hard drive in the brown port and the rest of the stuff in the black Sara ports.
Thanks


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> good luck!


Thanks for the answers

I will probably not be lazy and install my win7 again. but first i will try the system as it is and format if it is neccesary. I just formated my PC last week.


----------



## garikfox

Windows 7 Install is easy hehee

I have OCD: Windows Clean install habit, I clean install for the most stupid reasons lol









Bad msg in event viewer = Clean install

New Video card drivers = Clean install

New Intel RST drivers = Clean install

Yes !, I'm weird, LOL


----------



## LuckySevn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> New Bios just came out today gang :
> SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1015
> 1.Improve Improve system stability.
> 2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> Here is link to ASUS site: http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## id_mew

So i got Kingston 8 gig (4*2) hyperX Genesis ddr3 1600mhz but its only running at 1300mhz.
Is there something wrong with it? Or I have to change something manually?
Thanks in advance


----------



## JWMutant

Can someone please set something right for me.

I have bought the board, am buying the 3770K.

What ram should I be looking at, for the love of god someone tell me.

should I be looking at 1866 or will 2400 work nicely without me rooting around in bios to much?


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWMutant*
> 
> Can someone please set something right for me.
> I have bought the board, am buying the 3770K.
> What ram should I be looking at, for the love of god someone tell me.
> should I be looking at 1866 or will 2400 work nicely without me rooting around in bios to much?


I was in the same boat as u. Did lots a research and found out that 1600mhz is the sweat spot.
Anything higher will only be good for benchmarking but not actuall improvment in gaming or applications.
So save urself some money.
U can't go wrong with corsair, Kingston or G Skill.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> So i got Kingston 8 gig (4*2) hyperX Genesis ddr3 1600mhz but its only running at 1300mhz.
> Is there something wrong with it? Or I have to change something manually?
> Thanks in advance


change it to the right SPD in the bios, my Patriot Vipre 1866 did the same thing


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcTroll*
> 
> Thanks,
> I was thinking of getting the Vortex's like other have said. Do you have the fans bringing in air through the radiator or pushing air out of the case?
> Can anyone post any other fans that make more sense to get or setting up with a HAF X?
> Also, what decent wireless keyboard/mouse combos are people using for their set ups?


I have mine pushing air out of the case. I figure since heat travels up and I have the side and front as exhausts i'll push it up on top. Good thing fans have directional arrows on them so you don't get confused which side is what.

I used to always get the latest logitech wireless stuff. I hated the lag you would get coming back from the computer being on sleep wigging the mouse and sometimes the keyboard wouldn't respond right typing emails. Wired all the way.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWMutant*
> 
> Can someone please set something right for me.
> I have bought the board, am buying the 3770K.
> What ram should I be looking at, for the love of god someone tell me.
> should I be looking at 1866 or will 2400 work nicely without me rooting around in bios to much?


If you look in the mother board manual which is also available online there is a QVL (Qualified Vendor List) for memory. This shows you around 50 memory modules of different brands they have tested. From my understanding using one from their QVL -- ASUS bios will automatically detect it's clock speed. Anything else will work but you will have to manually adjust the clock in BIOS. I bought 1866 and I have it overclocked to 2100.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I was in the same boat as u. Did lots a research and found out that 1600mhz is the sweat spot.
> Anything higher will only be good for benchmarking but not actuall improvment in gaming or applications.
> So save urself some money.
> U can't go wrong with corsair, Kingston or G Skill.


I put Corsair Vengeance in mine. I did also call G.Skill and their techie recommended their Z and X series to me.


----------



## JWMutant

Thanks for the reply and have now settled for the 16gb 1866 G Skill.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> change it to the right SPD in the bios, my Patriot Vipre 1866 did the same thing


I ended switching to xmp profile that my memory went to 1600mhz.
Is xmp a good thing? Should i keep it on?


----------



## OcTroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> I have mine pushing air out of the case. I figure since heat travels up and I have the side and front as exhausts i'll push it up on top. Good thing fans have directional arrows on them so you don't get confused which side is what.
> I used to always get the latest logitech wireless stuff. I hated the lag you would get coming back from the computer being on sleep wigging the mouse and sometimes the keyboard wouldn't respond right typing emails. Wired all the way.


Do I need 4 new fans or just add 2 vertex's to the bottom? I guess since I'm investing in this, might as well go all the way.

I know what you mean about the lag, but I will be running everything on my TV at least for now, so i will need wireless to sit on the couch and play games or do what ever.

Need to find a good guide to OC from scratch without knowing anything. Is there anything step by step?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> So i got Kingston 8 gig (4*2) hyperX Genesis ddr3 1600mhz but its only running at 1300mhz.
> Is there something wrong with it? Or I have to change something manually?
> Thanks in advance


SB is native 1333, while IB native is 1600.
I'm using 1866 ram, as the cost compared to 1600 is the same or close to it.

You can use the XMP profile to have the ram set correctly in the bios.


----------



## id_mew

Yeah I did that already, and it's running at 1600mhz.

Just wondering do I need to dowload the latest VGA drivers from intel (Intel Graphics Accelerator) even though I'm using a graphic card?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> Yeah I did that already, and it's running at 1600mhz.
> Just wondering do I need to dowload the latest VGA drivers from intel (Intel Graphics Accelerator) even though I'm using a graphic card?


No need install the intel gpu drivers.
I have set in my bios gpu setting to PCI-e as main graphics.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcTroll*
> 
> Do I need 4 new fans or just add 2 vertex's to the bottom? I guess since I'm investing in this, might as well go all the way.
> I know what you mean about the lag, but I will be running everything on my TV at least for now, so i will need wireless to sit on the couch and play games or do what ever.
> Need to find a good guide to OC from scratch without knowing anything. Is there anything step by step?


I'd get 4. I'm very happy with them and I know you'd be too.

I'm still looking for a good step by step one that is specific to the Sabertooth. Pretty much when it comes to OC it's a matter of what hardware you have and what temperatures you are getting. There are some guides here that is specific to the Z77 motherboard and as long as your voltage falls between the recommended values and your temperatures don't go too high under full stress testing then you are fine.

The conclusion that I've come to with OCing is whatever setting I choose run it in Prime95 for 4-6 hours and see if your windows crashes. If it does not it will handle anything you throw at it.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> No need install the intel gpu drivers.
> I have set in my bios gpu setting to PCI-e as main graphics.


You've been really helpfull, Thanks!


----------



## darkphantom

Has someone made a guide to OC the sabertooth yet?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Has someone made a guide to OC the sabertooth yet?


Check out this post for IB/Z77 overclocking.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I'll have thoughts and pictures as soon as I get my hands on an i7 3770k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, we already have an official Sabertooth club... It just needs to be updated with the Z77 model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/854493/official-asus-sabertooth-motherboards-club-tuf-series/0_20


looks like he has not updated members since 2011?


----------



## Dudaims

Can some one help me?
Can u guys see this thread thar i started?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1256298/sabertooth-driving-me-crazy


----------



## Outcasst

Hi guys, I have a problem with this board.

My computer won't shut down!

After I click shutdown from Windows, the screen turns off but the PC does not. Everything is still running. I have tried 4 fresh installs of Windows and all of them do the same thing.

This has nothing to do with the fan overtime setting since all fans are connected to the PSU. It is set to disabled anyway.

Edit: *Problem was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue.*


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem with this board.
> My computer won't shut down!
> After I click shutdown from Windows, the screen turns off but the PC does not. Everything is still running. I have tried 4 fresh installs of Windows and all of them do the same thing.
> This has nothing to do with the fan overtime setting since all fans are connected to the PSU. It is set to disabled anyway.
> Edit: *Problem was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue.*


Funny you should say that , I am having the same issue. However I am on amd. So if anyone has any insight into this I would love to here how to fix this.


----------



## Blatsz32

there is it, my Sabertooth Z77. wireing is a bit messy


----------



## Orc Warlord

Hey I just bought this motherboard from newegg.

Do you think I made a good decision


----------



## jackbrennan2008

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> Hey I just bought this motherboard from newegg.
> Do you think I made a good decision


The motherboard is good, but if you need dual ethernet ports then you made a bad decision!

In other words: Without knowing what you need how can we really answer that question?


----------



## Orc Warlord

my old motherboard only had 1 ethernet port, and I only need 1 because I plug into my router, and use that router to get on the internet from my phone and laptop.

so its not a big deal right?










This motherboard looks great (main reason I wanted it) and its probably a huge upgrade over my old MSI board which cost like 60 bucks and I had to RMA it twice because of faults


----------



## advion

Finally upgraded but only went with a 2500k and this board, pretty pumped for it all to get here Tuesday.


----------



## JYJelly

Hey guys,

got this board just recently and I'm planning to install a push/pull configuration with the h60. I'm sorry if this is an obvious question but does 1 fan header go to the CPU_FAN and the other goes to CPU_OPT? and does it matter which fan in the push/pull is connected to CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT? I'm a complete noob when it comes to pc building and I'm just wondering if that's how it works.


----------



## darkphantom

Main fan that goes on the radiator connects to the CPU_FAN, the other would go into the optional. You should be fine either way.

If anything, you can always get a splitter and stick it in the CPU_FAN.

Other thoughts:
Stable, but temps were too high.

Z77 Sabertooth Asus

Bclk: 100
Ratio: 47
PLL: Enabled
DRAM ratio: 100:133
Memory Frequency: 1600mhz
EPU Power saving: disabled

Ram timings: 9-9-9-24 2T
CPU Ratio: 47(same as above)
Speedstep: disabled

CPU Load-line calibration: extreme
CPU Voltage Frequency: Manual
Set at 350kHZ (someone said this is good for IB)
CPU Power Phase Control: Extreme
CPU Power Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Power Thermal Control: 130
CPU Power Response Control: Ultra Fast
Dram Current Capability: 100%
Dram Voltage Frequency: Auto
Dram Power Phase Control: Extreme
Dram Power Thermal Control: 110

CPU Voltage: 1.35v
DRAM Voltage: 1.5v (memory spec)
VCCSA Voltage: Auto (shows as 0.925v)
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto (Shows as 1.816v)
PCH Voltage: Auto (Shows as 1.072v)
Other DRAM Settings set to auto (CHA/CTRl REF for CHA and CHB)

CPU Spread spectrum: disabled
BCLK recovery: Disabled

*Cpu configuration*
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
HT: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Max: Disabled
Execute Disable bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Hardware Prefetcher: enabled
Adjacent Cache Line prefetch: enabled

*CPU Power Management*
CPU ratio: 47 (as mentioned above)
Speedstep technology: Disabled
CPU C1E: Disabled
CPU C3 Report: Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Disabled
Package C state Support: Disabled

I think that about covers it. Any recommendations to get something stable without the vcore being so high?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem with this board.
> My computer won't shut down!
> After I click shutdown from Windows, the screen turns off but the PC does not. Everything is still running. I have tried 4 fresh installs of Windows and all of them do the same thing.
> This has nothing to do with the fan overtime setting since all fans are connected to the PSU. It is set to disabled anyway.
> Edit: *Problem was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue.*


Mine does the same and it does my head in.

I can press the power switch and it just hibernates/sleeps.

Or I can click start and shutdown and it just hibernates/sleeps.

In order to shut it down properly I have to hold the power button; but then when I start the PC it says my PC wasn't shut down properly and recommends to boot in safe mode.

I have Windows 7 Home Premium SP1.

I even went to advanced settings in power control, scroll down to and click "Power buttons and lid". Click power button action and click "shut down" in the drop down box.

This didn't fix it. What are these graphics drivers you've mentioned?


----------



## majnu

Put some ram coolers over the samsung greens today


----------



## darkphantom

Ha! looks interesting. I don't really touch the ram for much, so no need to worry about the temps.


----------



## Arizonian

I can't find in the UEFI how to turn down the RPM's for the onboard mini-fans. I went to the area that shows chasis fans 1-4 and the two others should be the on board fans but they did nothing by turning those down.

Anyone know where I should look?


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I can't find in the UEFI how to turn down the RPM's for the onboard mini-fans. I went to the area that shows chasis fans 1-4 and the two others should be the on board fans but they did nothing by turning those down.
> Anyone know where I should look?


I think you can manually set those, no?

I got the 3770k at a good OC, 4.4 @ 1.16v


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I can't find in the UEFI how to turn down the RPM's for the onboard mini-fans. I went to the area that shows chasis fans 1-4 and the two others should be the on board fans but they did nothing by turning those down.
> Anyone know where I should look?


Why do you need it in the UEFI? Just use thermal armor or fan xpert 2.


----------



## id_mew

I have a big problem, I just installed a Western digital 1tb hard drive as my storage drive, but I don't see it anywhere.
I just see my C:/ drive witch is my SSD.
I can see it in the bios, and when I right click my computer go to manage than disk management I see it there too.
Can somebody please help me?

Here's a screenshot:


----------



## Viesta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I have a big problem, I just installed a Western digital 1tb hard drive as my storage drive, but I don't see it anywhere.
> I just see my C:/ drive witch is my SSD.
> I can see it in the bios, and when I right click my computer go to manage than disk management I see it there too.
> Can somebody please help me?
> Here's a screenshot:


this happen to me. you need to update drivers for intel sata

otherwise, plug it into the brown sata port. then it will show up.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinate*
> 
> Why do you need it in the UEFI? Just use thermal armor or fan xpert 2.


Thanks for telling me this. I tried to down load ASUS Fan Xpert software I'm using for my second rig X58. Didn't realize that it's in version 2.

However I went to the ASUS website and under the Sabertooth Z77 list of down loads I did not see Fan Xpert 2. I tried to download it from one of the other mother boards down load list and it said it wasn't for my version of mother board.

Can anyone direct me to the ASUS Fan Xpert 2 down load link?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I have a big problem, I just installed a Western digital 1tb hard drive as my storage drive, but I don't see it anywhere.
> I just see my C:/ drive witch is my SSD.
> I can see it in the bios, and when I right click my computer go to manage than disk management I see it there too.
> Can somebody please help me?
> Here's a screenshot:


have you named it? As in D: or E:? When I reinstall windows my 1TB drive always disappears till I rename it in the diskm manager


----------



## Viesta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> have you named it? As in D: or E:? When I reinstall windows my 1TB drive always disappears till I rename it in the diskm manager


oh, I replied without looking closely at the screenshot.

All you have to do is right-click the big ///// area with 931.51 GB and click format or something, i forgot what exactly.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> I think you can manually set those, no?
> I got the 3770k at a good OC, 4.4 @ 1.16v


I think yours runs pretty hot for being 4.4. I'm new to OCing but here is where I am with my OC:



If you raise your Vcore from 1.16 it should lower your temps right? I see no advantage of running the Vcore that low.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viesta*
> 
> oh, I replied without looking closely at the screenshot.
> All you have to do is right-click the big ///// area with 931.51 GB and click format or something, i forgot what exactly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viesta*
> 
> this happen to me. you need to update drivers for intel sata
> otherwise, plug it into the brown sata port. then it will show up.


finally solved it, man this thing drove me crasy.
it was already plugged in the brown port, I just had to right cick and intialize and do some fancy stuff. boy pretty complicated, never had to do this before.
Thanks you guys!!


----------



## jtCheeKz

Hello everyone, new-comer / new-builder / new-owner-of-a-sabertooth-mobo, here =D



As of right now I'm still slowly buying parts and putting my new computer together. I'm not in a rush at all so it'll be a while until I will be able to actually start seeing how this mobo will treat me.

Here are my parts list currently:
CPU: Intel IvyBridge i5-3570k
Motherboard: Asus Z77 Sabertooth
PSU: Seasonic Xseries 650w modular

Future stuff:
Crucial SSD 128gb (Already bought, on its way)
WD 1tb 7200rpm 32mb cache (Already bought, on its way)
Corsair Vengeance 2x4gb ddr3 1600mhz (Already bought, on its way)
Corsair H100 cooling system
Corsair Carbide 500r case
XFX DD Radeon HD 7870 2gb


----------



## garikfox

Very Nice !









make sure you Memtest that memory when you get it Ive had horrible results with Vengeance ram I swear 50% or more of the Vengeance kits are bad or go bad.

Make sure it passes at least one pass of memtest then two weeks later test it again.


----------



## id_mew

Everytime I go to the bios i see that my settings are set to power saving mode. I always switch it to optimal performance but than went i restart and go back in the bios its back to power saving. Any idea why?
In windows I set it to high performance.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> I think yours runs pretty hot for being 4.4. I'm new to OCing but here is where I am with my OC:
> 
> If you raise your Vcore from 1.16 it should lower your temps right? I see no advantage of running the Vcore that low.


Raising vcore generally raises temps.


----------



## darkphantom

You guys having any issue with vdroop?

I have everything set to extreme but I still see .01-.03v differences in what I set and what is being shown in CPU-z and hwmonitor


----------



## Outcasst

Having some strange results.

My P67 Deluxe could run this chip at 4.6GHz 10hrs prime stable at 1.36v in CPUz under load.

The sabertooth requires at least 1.392v under load to stay stable.

All the other options are identical since both boards have pretty much the same options.


----------



## Arizonian

Ok - I found it! It was on the ASUS website and just above in the *P8Z77-V PRO* section of downloads. *ASUS Fan Xpert 2* does work on the Windows 7 version of Sabertooth Z77 board I can confirm.

Finally I quieted that silly mini fan to less than a whirl from a high pitch 'zzzzzzzz' LOL.


----------



## thor316c

Awesome, gonna try this out!


----------



## Jacer200

I just bought this and it looks great!! I'm using this board for my first build and should be done this weekend. I hope everything goes smooth.


----------



## homestyle

does this board light up anywhere when on?


----------



## smithyzbak

Will either the primary (beige) pcie 3.0 x16 slot and secondary (black one underneath it) pcie 3.0 x16 slot run at x16 if only a single vid card has been installed? My secondary pcie x16 only runs my card at x8 enough though I do not sli, and I wanted to know if it was the same for everyone.


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Having some strange results.
> My P67 Deluxe could run this chip at 4.6GHz 10hrs prime stable at 1.36v in CPUz under load.
> The sabertooth requires at least 1.392v under load to stay stable.
> All the other options are identical since both boards have pretty much the same options.


This is my main concern at the moment regardign this board... Can it OC well or not when compared to another similar Z77 or Z68/67 board... I am at 5Ghz right now, and even thought game plays don't increase in quality that much, other programs do bennefit from it, so I don't want to go to the next best thing only to have it perform at a lesser value... not really a upgrade in that respect then...

I am torn between this and the V-pro. Is it worth the extra $20 for the armour and fans and 5yr warranty over more PCIe3.0 slots... or do I go X79 and a 3820 and 32GB of RAM for a 25Gb RAM disc & load BF2 & BF3 on it for outstanding game performance...?

Oh, $ I lvoe the sig, vrey aweosme, the hmuan mnid is a vrey inertetsnig bio-gtae... HAHAH LOL!!


----------



## gtfoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> does this board light up anywhere when on?


I wanted to add some LED's under the armour to make it glow out from under the cover... I think that would look sweet. I was thinking of adding soem vinyl graphics to the cover as well to match my Red themed ensemble not much just some striping and maybe some reflective flames, I like Flame jobs


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *****xy*
> 
> This is my main concern at the moment regardign this board... Can it OC well or not when compared to another similar Z77 or Z68/67 board... I am at 5Ghz right now, and even thought game plays don't increase in quality that much, other programs do bennefit from it, so I don't want to go to the next best thing only to have it perform at a lesser value... not really a upgrade in that respect then...
> I am torn between this and the V-pro. Is it worth the extra $20 for the armour and fans and 5yr warranty over more PCIe3.0 slots... or do I go X79 and a 3820 and 32GB of RAM for a 25Gb RAM disc & load BF2 & BF3 on it for outstanding game performance...?
> Oh, $ I lvoe the sig, vrey aweosme, the hmuan mnid is a vrey inertetsnig bio-gtae... HAHAH LOL!!


If you on SB at the moment going to IB isn't going to be any big jump in performance. Running SB at 5.0 is the same at running IB at 4.5 from what I've heard. I got mine at 4.3 stable ATM but haven't figured out the UEFI yet.


----------



## Dudaims

Hi my friends
So basically i just got my z77 yesterday and i am trying until now just to set my memories to 2133mhz.
If i set them to 1600mhz the pc wont even boot =(
I tried to update to the latest bios and then the Multiplier option was gone it only apears BCLK ''100''. =S
i set the timing to 11-11-11-30-2 @ 2133mhz 1.65 and same.
I cant overclock i cant set it to 2133mhz cause it only boots at [email protected]
And that option that automatically overclocks the CPU (Asus Optimal) doesnt work either it wont boot.

Am i missing some option or something?
Thanks mates
Pls some one =(

Intel 2600k
Gskill RipJaws X F3-17000CL11 4gbx2
Asus sabertooth z77

Another thing i disabled the speed step but the cpu still drops to 1600mhz.
here is the shot with the missing ratio option





































Already flashed the bios and still nothing

Intel 2600k

RipjawsX F3-17000CL11D-8GBXL
http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=397


----------



## Sxcerino

Anyone getting an issue with Fan Xpert 2 where the assist fans can't be turned down?
i.e. it's showing minimum RPM for assist fan 1 as 80%.

Also there's no option for CPU_OPT?


----------



## darkphantom

the multi is in the CPU power management.

If you're overclocking, you need to get your voltages off auto, atleast for your vcore,dram and pll


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Ok - I found it! It was on the ASUS website and just above in the *P8Z77-V PRO* section of downloads. *ASUS Fan Xpert 2* does work on the Windows 7 version of Sabertooth Z77 board I can confirm.
> Finally I quieted that silly mini fan to less than a whirl from a high pitch 'zzzzzzzz' LOL.


I tried to tell you that a few posts ago, even posted the link







you didn't belive me


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> does this board light up anywhere when on?


bottom of PCie slot-3. small green light lets you know that theres current in the board.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudaims*
> 
> Hi my friends
> So basically i just got my z77 yesterday and i am trying until now just to set my memories to 2133mhz.
> If i set them to 1600mhz the pc wont even boot =(
> I tried to update to the latest bios and then the Multiplier option was gone it only apears BCLK ''100''. =S
> i set the timing to 11-11-11-30-2 @ 2133mhz 1.65 and same.
> I cant overclock i cant set it to 2133mhz cause it only boots at [email protected]
> And that option that automatically overclocks the CPU (Asus Optimal) doesnt work either it wont boot.
> Am i missing some option or something?
> Thanks mates
> Pls some one =(
> Intel 2600k
> Gskill RipJaws X F3-17000CL11 4gbx2
> Asus sabertooth z77
> Another thing i disabled the speed step but the cpu still drops to 1600mhz.
> here is the shot with the missing ratio option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already flashed the bios and still nothing
> Intel 2600k
> RipjawsX F3-17000CL11D-8GBXL
> http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=397


Sorry bout the triple post gang. Anyway, I went to the link about your memory and not sure I'm reading it right but it says it's XMP ready. have you tried seting the OC to XMP instead of manual? Maybe the board will set itself to teh right ratio. Or maybe you have to set the mem ratio manually to either 100:133 or 100:100..., oh also try that little "mem ok" button" it's supposed to fix issues like what you are having. To be honest I just manually set it to the right mem setting and let the board to it's own OC. It's my first Intel set up in 10yrs and it alot faster than any AMD set up I've had

4228.98 multi: x41 Bus: 103.0


----------



## Z Overlord

So is this board worth it? To me, this seems like the best board for an i5 3570K and one graphics card


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> So is this board worth it? To me, this seems like the best board for an i5 3570K and one graphics card


Well this board is definitively the best quality built board IMO.









All the boards have their difference in terms of features and capabilities. So really it's up to you and your specific needs you want out of your board.

Read all the ASUS boards features and ask yourself what will you utilize and or would like to or could use.

**On a side note**

I'm trying to track down the ASUS Auto Tune Utility to let ASUS software over clock my CPU.

Saw this very informative video by Newegg TV and I'd feel a whole lot better being sort of n00bish over clocking Ivy to let a utility that will take all different varying factors into consideration as it monitors the over clocking procedure.






Again I'm not seeing this on the ASUS website under our Sabertooth Z77 utility down loads.


----------



## darkphantom

I believe this is in the AI suite. I am downloading the previous revision to the latest release as that doesn't want to install for me.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> I believe this is in the AI suite. I am downloading the previous revision to the latest release as that doesn't want to install for me.


I just down loaded the AI ASUS Suite II 1.02.33 and it's not included in that.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Anyone getting an issue with Fan Xpert 2 where the assist fans can't be turned down?
> i.e. it's showing minimum RPM for assist fan 1 as 80%.
> Also there's no option for CPU_OPT?


I had the same issue with mine for the CPU_OPT. It was there, then it disappeared.
I was told from Asus to RMA the mobo, as it was defective.

The Assist fans I can control in bios, FE2 and TR.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I just down loaded the AI ASUS Suite II 1.02.33 and it's not included in that.


What is that software called, do you know?

edit: Asus-Iverse

I don't think it is released yet as I can't find any links anywhere...


----------



## Arizonian

It's called 'ASUS Power Tune' - the video I linked shows the ASUS rep with the Newegg host over clocking the Ivy CPU on an ASUS mother board using this software utility.

It's seems the safest way to over clock the CPU.

I have a strong feeling my crashing and not getting better scores are from an unstable over clock to my CPU where I haven't properly set specs correctly. Setting voltages etc.... Once I get this over clock on CPU squared away I'll be able to see what my GPU really has to offer. My stability on benching is varying and I'm sure I can do better since I haven't scratched the surface correctly on my CPU.


----------



## darkphantom

Ah, thanks for correcting me! Let me know if you find a download link, will do the same!


----------



## Zantrill




----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> I think you can manually set those, no?
> I got the 3770k at a good OC, 4.4 @ 1.16v


Hey, I saw that darkphantom OC is at 4.7 1.35V and yours is 4.4 1.16V are there advantages to not overclocking it so high but having it low voltage?

Right now I'm at 4.5 with 1.2 Voltage which goes up to 1.21. My PLL voltage is 1.8 my CPU temp in AI Suite II is 57 C but using Core Temp each core goes around 69-79 C.

I Changed my Voltage from 1.2 to 1.19 and my PLL from 1.8 to 1.7 and after 30 minutes of running Prime95 it blue screened.

Would you recommend me going to 4.4 or tweaking voltage and PLL around?


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I had the same issue with mine for the CPU_OPT. It was there, then it disappeared.
> I was told from Asus to RMA the mobo, as it was defective.
> The Assist fans I can control in bios, FE2 and TR.


Thanks.

Is there another program that I could use to configure fan speed? I kind of want to associate some of my fan speeds either GPU or CPU temp if possible.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Thanks.
> Is there another program that I could use to configure fan speed? I kind of want to associate some of my fan speeds either GPU or CPU temp if possible.


I was looking for the same thing. Found it on the ASUS website under a different mother board download list of utilities called ASUS Fan Xpert 2. I posts the link three pages back.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/380#post_17226611

Works perfect with the Sabertooth Z77. I had to lower the little mobo mini fans. I'm not sure if it comes with our AI Suite which can be found on the ASUS site under the Sabertooth downloads section.

It under the *P8Z77-V PRO* section.


----------



## AZpen30

I'm having an issue getting the asmeida sata 3 ports on by board to recognize any SSD's i plug into them, the drivers are install and showing in the device manger in win 7, but cant see the ports in the bios (1015) or the drives the the drive manager. what am I doing wrong here!


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Hey, I saw that darkphantom OC is at 4.7 1.35V and yours is 4.4 1.16V are there advantages to not overclocking it so high but having it low voltage?
> Right now I'm at 4.5 with 1.2 Voltage which goes up to 1.21. My PLL voltage is 1.8 my CPU temp in AI Suite II is 57 C but using Core Temp each core goes around 69-79 C.
> I Changed my Voltage from 1.2 to 1.19 and my PLL from 1.8 to 1.7 and after 30 minutes of running Prime95 it blue screened.
> Would you recommend me going to 4.4 or tweaking voltage and PLL around?


personal preference I guess, lower your pll to 1.5-1.6, temps should go down quite a bit.

All about experimenting.


----------



## JollyMan

Hello everyone!

I am proud to say that I am a new owner of the Sabertooth z77 and i5 3570k. I thought i would just introduce myself because I am sure I will be in here a lot in the next few days/weeks looking for info from you exeperienced Asus z77 users.

I originally purchased the gigabyte UD5H board, because it was cheaper and seemed to offer more options than the sabertooth. Turns out I had a major issue with the board, incompatabilities with hardware or a bios issue that wasnt allowing me to even post a code. So, i decided instead of RMAing for a replacement Gigabyte board, I opted for the more expensive (and super sexy) sabertooth. I got the board today and installed everything at one time(gtx580, 16gb g.skill ram, a second video card for dedicated physx) it booted without a hitch! I was so stoked. Anyway, thats all i have for now, I only had the board long enough to get it up and runnig and perform fresh OS install, unfortunately had to go to work soon after. I will attempt to install all drivers tonight/tomorrow and come back with questions if I have any. Just in case, is there any specific order i need to install the drivers and are there any drivers that anyone recommends i dont install?

thanks ahead of time!

Sam


----------



## smithyzbak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithyzbak*
> 
> Will either the primary (beige) pcie 3.0 x16 slot and secondary (black one underneath it) pcie 3.0 x16 slot run at x16 if only a single vid card has been installed? My secondary pcie x16 only runs my card at x8 even though I do not sli, and I wanted to know if it was the same for everyone.


Saw a video on newegg on this board stating that the 2nd pcie slot was wired for x8, anyone able to confirm this or has someone been able to run a single card at x16 in that slot?


----------



## Outcasst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithyzbak*
> 
> Saw a video on newegg on this board stating that the 2nd pcie slot was wired for x8, anyone able to confirm this or has someone been able to run a single card at x16 in that slot?


Only the top PCI-E slot is wired for x16.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithyzbak*
> 
> Saw a video on newegg on this board stating that the 2nd pcie slot was wired for x8, anyone able to confirm this or has someone been able to run a single card at x16 in that slot?


Outcasst is correct the first slot is x16 the second x8.

Furthermore If you run two in SLI/Crossfire they both run x8.

If you run one dual GPU then that one dual GPU runs x16. One of the many reasons I also chose a dual over two single configs in my current rig.


----------



## smithyzbak

Ok, you two are awesome. I was worried there might be something wrong with my board, but now I am relieved. Thanks for the confirmation.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithyzbak*
> 
> Ok, you two are awesome. I was worried there might be something wrong with my board, but now I am relieved. Thanks for the confirmation.


Your very welcome.







and welcome to OCN.


----------



## GeZza200

Just put some new fans in, not sure I like the color haha, but they work great and have really cut alot of noise from my system.


----------



## Z Overlord

Can someone post a pic with the Noctua cpu cooler on it?


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I was looking for the same thing. Found it on the ASUS website under a different mother board download list of utilities called ASUS Fan Xpert 2. I posts the link three pages back.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/380#post_17226611
> Works perfect with the Sabertooth Z77. I had to lower the little mobo mini fans. I'm not sure if it comes with our AI Suite which can be found on the ASUS site under the Sabertooth downloads section.
> It under the *P8Z77-V PRO* section.


Fan expert 2 is actually the software that i'm having problems with =/

what was the default software that i was suppose to use to control the sabertooth fans?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Fan expert 2 is actually the software that i'm having problems with =/
> what was the default software that i was suppose to use to control the sabertooth fans?


I did not find any. ASUS only uses Fan Xpert 2 for the latest boards. Not sure why we don't have one in our download area.

I had to run through a config run that verified all the fans and calibrated then when I initially started the software. Not sure how to help beyond that. It recognize them and configured it.

Now if I can only find auto power tune I'll be able to overclock my CPU on the board.


----------



## Explicit528

Just ordered this board









What OC do you guys think an average i5 2500k with a Noctua NH-D14 can pull off 24/7 on this board?


----------



## GeZza200

They seem to be pulling pretty much the same numbers as the p67/z68 boards.


----------



## Ferboten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> Can someone post a pic with the Noctua cpu cooler on it?


Here you go:


----------



## Unleashin

Hey guy's.

Im looking to buy the i7 3770k ivy, with the Z77 SABERTOOTH board, but do NOT want to have the same problem i had with the board i have now. It was'nt compatible with the board so i had to use its feature that sets it to a setting where its usable, and its at 1066... and the ram at the time were the best on the market. 1600mhz 7-7-7-20.

So i tried finding a list stating what the board was compatible with, and couldn't find anything.... Asus havent put one up, does anyone know if this would work, and i would NOT have to use the feature to setting it to a setting where its usable?

http://www.centrecom.com.au/catalog/cmz16gx3m4a1600c9-corsair-ddr3-16gb-vengeance-1600mhz-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9-p-49693.html?sort=3a

Looking at that there.

Ill also grab an Intel 520 120GB SSD for fast OS and gaming


----------



## GeZza200

You will find that your ram at 1066MHz is actualy running at 2133MHz. The 1600MHz sticks you have will show 800MHz but actualy run at 1600MHz. Its just how it shows it. Sweet Gemini by the way


----------



## Unleashin

Bro, legend for the car respect ahaha.

Nah man, on boot up screen it says 1066mhz. In CPU-ID i havent checked yet, but i was disappointed


----------



## GeZza200

haha yeah there sweet cars especially with SR20's haha.

That's annoying then. In CPU-Z it will show 533MHz if its actually running at 1066Mhz then.


----------



## PaulZ001337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem with this board.
> My computer won't shut down!
> After I click shutdown from Windows, the screen turns off but the PC does not. Everything is still running. I have tried 4 fresh installs of Windows and all of them do the same thing.
> This has nothing to do with the fan overtime setting since all fans are connected to the PSU. It is set to disabled anyway.
> Edit: *Problem was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Funny you should say that , I am having the same issue. However I am on amd. So if anyone has any insight into this I would love to here how to fix this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem with this board.
> My computer won't shut down!
> After I click shutdown from Windows, the screen turns off but the PC does not. Everything is still running. I have tried 4 fresh installs of Windows and all of them do the same thing.
> This has nothing to do with the fan overtime setting since all fans are connected to the PSU. It is set to disabled anyway.
> Edit: *Problem was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Mine does the same and it does my head in.
> I can press the power switch and it just hibernates/sleeps.
> Or I can click start and shutdown and it just hibernates/sleeps.
> In order to shut it down properly I have to hold the power button; but then when I start the PC it says my PC wasn't shut down properly and recommends to boot in safe mode.
> I have Windows 7 Home Premium SP1.
> I even went to advanced settings in power control, scroll down to and click "Power buttons and lid". Click power button action and click "shut down" in the drop down box.
> This didn't fix it. What are these graphics drivers you've mentioned?


I got this shut down issue with my new Z77 Sabertooth too. Anyone know how to fix it?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaulZ001337*
> 
> I got this shut down issue with my new Z77 Sabertooth too. Anyone know how to fix it?


The not being able to shut down power bug seems to be effecting Z77 boards and Nvidia combinations. Not all OCN members have their specs listed hard to say exact pin point.

(Which btw makes it very helpful to list your BIO specs if your seeking help, by helping those helping you know what your dealing with).

As mentioned on prior posts was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. *Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue*. OR other solution is just use sleep mode when walking away from your computer. It has no wake from sleep bugs and next driver release it will be addressed. If your one of those that power down when you leave from your system then you should roll back to previous driver.

Welcome to OCN PaulZ


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferboten*
> 
> Here you go:


That ram looks like a tight fit, any way to know if a ram kit you are looking for is compatible?


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unleashin*
> 
> Hey guy's.
> Im looking to buy the i7 3770k ivy, with the Z77 SABERTOOTH board, but do NOT want to have the same problem i had with the board i have now. It was'nt compatible with the board so i had to use its feature that sets it to a setting where its usable, and its at 1066... and the ram at the time were the best on the market. 1600mhz 7-7-7-20.
> So i tried finding a list stating what the board was compatible with, and couldn't find anything.... Asus havent put one up, does anyone know if this would work, and i would NOT have to use the feature to setting it to a setting where its usable?
> http://www.centrecom.com.au/catalog/cmz16gx3m4a1600c9-corsair-ddr3-16gb-vengeance-1600mhz-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9-p-49693.html?sort=3a
> Looking at that there.
> Ill also grab an Intel 520 120GB SSD for fast OS and gaming


I have the 16gb vengeance 1866 mhz kit. works perfectly .. I OC'ed it to 2100.

Also compatibility list (QVL) - http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/
Download the manual and go to the QVL list. Those are tested and the board will auto detect settings. Other rams up to 2400mhz will work but requires bios settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> That ram looks like a tight fit, any way to know if a ram kit you are looking for is compatible?


http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=34

According to Noctua it says you won't have any compatibility issues using this motherboard using any ram sticks.


----------



## Sxcerino

what BIOS settings are you guys using for the quickest post?
mine seems to take a while even with full splash screen disabled and post report - 1 second


----------



## darkphantom

try disabling hibernate for those shutdown issues.

start>cmd>run as administrator>powercfg -h off


----------



## Unleashin

Im officially a Z77 SABERTOOTH user.

I just ordered mine 10 seconds ago, along with the 3770k, 16gb corsair sam, and an intel 520 120gb ssd.

I can't wait to play around with this beast!

Now who wants to buy my i7 920 b0 stepping, asus v-deluxe motherboard and 6gb of 7-7-7-20 ram?








Oh and my ps3 with 10 games, 2 controllers and bluetooth earpiece.
And also my guitar hero collection for xbox 360, like 5-6 games and two guitars. Australia only.









XD


----------



## JollyMan

Hey guys just wondering if there is a specific order that I need to install sabertooth drivers?


----------



## Arizonian

Congrats Unleashin.









On a side note...how do we know if we are running the PCIe in 3.0? The BIOS shows x1 and the other choice is x4. Is it automatic?


----------



## baboyizm

Finally got everything built over the weekend. I bought all new components except for my power supply and case. I notice the difference in speed from my AMD PII 955. It might be the Velociraptor or a combination of new cpu. The board is really nice and I love the bios. I can't wait to start overclocking.

Asus Sabetooth Z77
i5-3570k
XFX 5770
H100
8GB Corsair Vengeance
WD Velociraptor 600 GB
Corsair HX620
Corsair 700D


----------



## baboyizm

I was just browsing the Asus forums and it looks like Fan Xpert 2 and Auto Tune are not for the Sabertooth Z77 or TUF series motherboards. Thats why they took the download links down.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baboyizm*
> 
> I was just browsing the Asus forums and it looks like Fan Xpert 2 and Auto Tune are not for the Sabertooth Z77 or TUF series motherboards. Thats why they took the download links down.


I have a feeling your right. The Fan Xpert 2 does work enough to control those mini fans on the mother board. Prior to my adjustment they were louder than all my chassis fans and 690 GPU fan put together. Loud little buggers. High pitched whirl since install. The moment they got turned down was like I finally could enjoy this new build.

Now I'm moving on to over clocking the CPU. I'm unstable trying to bench my new GPU and crashing. I've not applied correct voltage as of yet not sure which way to go about it through the new UEFI BIOS.

If auto tune isn't certified for the Sabertooth then I'm not going to try like Fan Xpert. I tried Fan Xpert 2 because Fan Xpert worked on my last X58 Sabertooth.

Now to try and find a comprehensive OC guide to Ivy 3770K.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> try disabling hibernate for those shutdown issues.
> start>cmd>run as administrator>powercfg -h off


Hey bud, I turned off hibernate from power management.

What is CMD? I lost you on that path.

Thanks. Willing to give it a try.


----------



## Unleashin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Hey bud, I turned off hibernate from power management.
> What is CMD? I lost you on that path.
> Thanks. Willing to give it a try.


CMD is command, go start> then search cmd>open that, then follow the rest of what arizonian said.
Its just a command application you can use to basically do anything to you rPC with, (if you know how to use it) lol


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unleashin*
> 
> CMD is command, go start> then search cmd>open that, then follow the rest of what arizonian said.
> Its just a command application you can use to basically do anything to you rPC with, (if you know how to use it) lol


Go it.

Open the Start Menu.

Click on All Programs and Accessories, then right click on Command Prompt and click on Run as administrator. (see screenshot below)



Ok turned it off and confirmed it worked. However even with 'hibernation' off it did not fix the power off bug. Really good try though. +1 rep to dark phantom for a good suggestion anyway.


----------



## OcTroll

Random question. Got all of my parts ordered and will post pics once everything is installed.

I am now looking for a wireless keyboard and mouse. It doesnt have to be a combo, but I do need both to be wireless.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I just dont see a reason to spend $150 on those logitech sets unless people really recommend them over other models.

Thanks!


----------



## Bobmitch

I have a quick question! My first post...since I just found this thread last night. I purchased a 3770K and Sabertooth z77. All the memory I am finding, locally, is 1.65V. Can I use 1.65V DDR3-1866 on this board with no issues? I was under the assumption that the Ivy Bridge requred 1.5V.

Thanks in advance...

Bob


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> I have a quick question! My first post...since I just found this thread last night. I purchased a 3770K and Sabertooth z77. All the memory I am finding, locally, is 1.65V. Can I use 1.65V DDR3-1866 on this board with no issues? I was under the assumption that the Ivy Bridge requred 1.5V.
> Thanks in advance...
> Bob


I'm using Patriot Sector2 Vipre 1866 at 1.65..I've had no issue at all. I had to manually set it in the bios but past that everything's running smooth.


----------



## Bobmitch

What do you think of this memory...will have to get two kits...

http://www.frys.com/product/6580013?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Thanks


----------



## likethegun

Just bought this baby and STOKED to get it in the mail. Paid for one day shipping and everything!


----------



## likethegun

I'd get 1600mhz rated @ 1.5 v or lower for this board, but this opinion just comes from research because I don't even have my board yet!


----------



## Zantrill

wha?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcTroll*
> 
> Random question. Got all of my parts ordered and will post pics once everything is installed.
> I am now looking for a wireless keyboard and mouse. It doesnt have to be a combo, but I do need both to be wireless.
> Does anyone have any suggestions? I just dont see a reason to spend $150 on those logitech sets unless people really recommend them over other models.
> Thanks!


I've had a logitech trackman wheel optical (its not wireless, but same exact make as the cheaper new wireless ones) for years now and it is the BEST dang mouse I have ever had! Takes a minute to get used to using your thumb, but I will seriously never go back to the standard mice ever again. The response time when you get down to just a flick of your thumb to move the cursor from one end of the monitor to the other is phenomenal! Best part is you don't even have to pick up the mouse, so your trigger fingers stay intact!


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> What do you think of this memory...will have to get two kits...
> http://www.frys.com/product/6580013?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
> Thanks


Thats the memory I use, I like it, ALOT.
In my haste to replace my terrible FX_8150 and Gigabyte 990fxa-ud7 I neglected to measure out the space between each pci slot. Having 2 graphics cards that take up 3 slots I starting to get major over heating issues as the top cards fans are seled up by the bottom one and it's getting no air flow. I hit 90c the other day and just today BF# shut itself down, due to heat, I think. Anyone got any ideas on what to do? I'd hate to go to a single card solution..it's going to be expensive to match the performance of 2 Asus GTX 570 CUII in SLI.


----------



## MoYu

Can someone give opinion on the difference between motherboard fan controls vs. a physical fan controller? Im running 10 fans on my PC.


----------



## pjneder

*Help please with initial build problem!*

I just got my Sabertooth + i5 3570K + G.Skill 1600 8GB ram kit in today. I started the build on my bench and things seemed to be going OK. I ran the OC tuner and let that play for a minute and did some very basic config with no SSD's attached. Once I added my SSD's it would not POST. I cleared CMOS and still no post. I ran through a bunch of different debug steps including the BIOS Recovery load on the read button back to 1015.

The problem is this: I cannot get into UEFI no matter what I do. When it says "enter setup" and "Press F1" if I do that it just hangs. The built in HDMI port no longer puts out anything. I must have a PCIe GPU card installed.

Making it weirder is this: If I plug in a ODD and slap a Win7 disk it will boot all the way to Win7 install!

Any ideas to recover before I RMA back to Newegg and start over?

Thanks!!!

P.S. I went so far as to take the "armor" off and remove CMOS batt to clear. I've also downgraded/upgraded BIOS and flashed from the DOS flash utlity as well as BIOS recovery button.


----------



## xxShinobixx

Hey guys, i wonder if any of you have the same issue with Thermal Radar.

Basically, when the CPU is under load or over around 55C TR does not show the correct temperature and can be a good 15-20C off CoreTemp sometimes.

To give you an idea of what do i mean, here's a screenshot i took recently:



See how TR reports temp to be @ 49C, when in fact it is 62C. When the CPU idles, or is not 100 both programs are pretty close until the actual CPU temp reaches low 50s. At this point Thermal radar starts lagging behind.

Can someone please run a stress test to see if you get the same issue?

Thanks


----------



## GeZza200

With my Ripjaws 2133MHz, it defaults to 1.6v, is that ok or too high?


----------



## xxShinobixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjneder*
> 
> *Help please with initial build problem!*
> I just got my Sabertooth + i5 3570K + G.Skill 1600 8GB ram kit in today. I started the build on my bench and things seemed to be going OK. I ran the OC tuner and let that play for a minute and did some very basic config with no SSD's attached. Once I added my SSD's it would not POST. I cleared CMOS and still no post. I ran through a bunch of different debug steps including the BIOS Recovery load on the read button back to 1015.
> The problem is this: I cannot get into UEFI no matter what I do. When it says "enter setup" and "Press F1" if I do that it just hangs. The built in HDMI port no longer puts out anything. I must have a PCIe GPU card installed.
> Making it weirder is this: If I plug in a ODD and slap a Win7 disk it will boot all the way to Win7 install!
> Any ideas to recover before I RMA back to Newegg and start over?
> Thanks!!!
> P.S. I went so far as to take the "armor" off and remove CMOS batt to clear. I've also downgraded/upgraded BIOS and flashed from the DOS flash utlity as well as BIOS recovery button.


Try removing all memory sticks but one and boot that way. Before you do tho, disconnect from the power socket and let it sit for a little while.


----------



## GeZza200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxShinobixx*
> 
> Hey guys, i wonder if any of you have the same issue with Thermal Radar.
> Basically, when the CPU is under load or over around 55C TR does not show the correct temperature and can be a good 15-20C off CoreTemp sometimes.
> To give you an idea of what do i mean, here's a screenshot i took recently:
> 
> See how TR reports temp to be @ 49C, when in fact it is 62C. When the CPU idles, or is not 100 both programs are pretty close until the actual CPU temp reaches low 50s. At this point Thermal radar starts lagging behind.
> Can someone please run a stress test to see if you get the same issue?
> Thanks


Its the Vcore you should be looking at, which is 61c


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxShinobixx*
> 
> Try removing all memory sticks but one and boot that way. Before you do tho, disconnect from the power socket and let it sit for a little while.


Thanks but that was one of the first things I did. I also ran the MemOK switch, which came right back after only 1 test run. I'll try the other mem stick just for fun. It's been off of standby power for over an hour now, so it should be dead.

BTW, memory is only in A2 slot.


----------



## xxShinobixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoYu*
> 
> Can someone give opinion on the difference between motherboard fan controls vs. a physical fan controller? Im running 10 fans on my PC.


Fan Xpert is not very accurate i found. I have 3 GT 1850 Typhoons connected to 1 FAN heather and it reports something like 1600 RPM to be the minimum speed the fan can be run at, which is bollocks. If you decide to run with onboard fan management i think you'd be best if just plug 1 fan per header and let the software calibrate itself. Only after that add more fans to a harnes if you want in order to connect more than one. Just make sure they do not drain too much current.

Also note that although fans can run at certain low wattage, often they require higher current during start up. For example mt GT's are rated @ 0.038A but require 0.36 to get things going so you can't really connect more than 3 onto one FAN header safely, eve though, when you look at their rated power, theoretically you should be able to.

hth


----------



## xxShinobixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeZza200*
> 
> Its the Vcore you should be looking at, which is 61c


Thanks, so what is the CPU then?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjneder*
> 
> *Help please with initial build problem!*
> I just got my Sabertooth + i5 3570K + G.Skill 1600 8GB ram kit in today. I started the build on my bench and things seemed to be going OK. I ran the OC tuner and let that play for a minute and did some very basic config with no SSD's attached. Once I added my SSD's it would not POST. I cleared CMOS and still no post. I ran through a bunch of different debug steps including the BIOS Recovery load on the read button back to 1015.
> The problem is this: I cannot get into UEFI no matter what I do. When it says "enter setup" and "Press F1" if I do that it just hangs. The built in HDMI port no longer puts out anything. I must have a PCIe GPU card installed.
> Making it weirder is this: If I plug in a ODD and slap a Win7 disk it will boot all the way to Win7 install!
> Any ideas to recover before I RMA back to Newegg and start over?
> Thanks!!!
> P.S. I went so far as to take the "armor" off and remove CMOS batt to clear. I've also downgraded/upgraded BIOS and flashed from the DOS flash utlity as well as BIOS recovery button.


Have you checked the boot priority on the first page of the BIOS? Even that though doesn't explain y it hangs at the "f1" part.
It does boot wiht the ODD and the SSD installed?


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Have you checked the boot priority on the first page of the BIOS? Even that though doesn't explain y it hangs at the "f1" part.
> It does boot wiht the ODD and the SSD installed?


I cannot get into UEFI to set or see the boot priority. That is the problem. The BIOS settings just don't come up.

If I put any sort of bootable disc or USB in the board it will boot that OS.

Seems like UEFI is broken/hung or something.


----------



## Arizonian

Is there a Overclocking guide to our Sabertooth?


----------



## id_mew

Hi guys, something is bothering me, my i73770k keeps going to 1604.75.mhz I tried going to control panel and putting it to high performance instead of power saving moving but it didn't solve it.
I tried to see if it's something in the bios, but I can't figure it out.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Is there a Overclocking guide to our Sabertooth?


Not that I know of, but would really like one.

I had my OC stable at 1.15vcore and 1.5vPLL, but it crashed during games :-/

Had to raise it to 1.17 to not crash during games.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> Hi guys, something is bothering me, my i73770k keeps going to 1604.75.mhz I tried going to control panel and putting it to high performance instead of power saving moving but it didn't solve it.
> I tried to see if it's something in the bios, but I can't figure it out.
> Thanks in advance.


disable the speed step and c1e in bios to prevent downclocking iirc.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

After a lot of tweaking I come in at Vcore: 1.2V PLL @1.65 at full load my Vcore goes up to 1.225V I'm guessing .025 is my Vdroop.

Do you guys think this is a good OC with my temps and voltage settings?


----------



## krazyaaron

Hey I just built a rig and have this motherboard. Ive checked all my connections and it seems like everything should go fine, but pressing the power button does nothing. When I switch on my power supply, a green light on the mobo lights up, as well as the usb bios flash blue light on the back, but pressing the power button just does nothing. I have checked the power switch hookups and it should be working, but I cant figure out whats wrong. Anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks, Aaron


----------



## darkphantom

Aaron, please check the connectors on your case and make sure they are plugged in properly to the connectors on the motherboard. (pw switch,reset,hdd led...etc)


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Geez. I really want this motherboard. I am in a pickle between this or the ASUS Maximus V GENE. Can someone help me pick one. Here's the story.

I'm building a new computer, it being my first gaming pc I really want to look around for the best I can afford. 40$ more isn't really much and I'm torn, The thing making me want this Motherboard more is the fact that it has a 5 year warranty but I'm not sure I'd actually use it for that long. (not big into reselling) So I'll list my parts and you guys help me make a decisions please.

Cm 690 II - Already own but upgrading in the near future.
Seasonic x750 PSU - Already own.
CM 212+ Heatsink - already own but I plan to upgrade soon.
4 AP-15 GT's - Already own.
Corsair Vengeance - already own.
Any 7850 - Not yet bought but planning to upgrade every 2 years.

With those specs and with knowing Haswell is around the corner can I use this pc for at least the next 3-4 years and still be pretty relevant?


----------



## MoYu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krazyaaron*
> 
> Hey I just built a rig and have this motherboard. Ive checked all my connections and it seems like everything should go fine, but pressing the power button does nothing. When I switch on my power supply, a green light on the mobo lights up, as well as the usb bios flash blue light on the back, but pressing the power button just does nothing. I have checked the power switch hookups and it should be working, but I cant figure out whats wrong. Anyone have a suggestion?
> Thanks, Aaron


happened to me today as well as i was putting together mines, apparently i used a wrong power cable which connecting psu to mobo


----------



## iARDAs

Our Asus Sabertooth is not 3 WAY SLI capable right folks?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Geez. I really want this motherboard. I am in a pickle between this or the ASUS Maximus V GENE. Can someone help me pick one. Here's the story.
> I'm building a new computer, it being my first gaming pc I really want to look around for the best I can afford. 40$ more isn't really much and I'm torn, The thing making me want this Motherboard more is the fact that it has a 5 year warranty but I'm not sure I'd actually use it for that long. (not big into reselling) So I'll list my parts and you guys help me make a decisions please.
> Cm 690 II - Already own but upgrading in the near future.
> Seasonic x750 PSU - Already own.
> CM 212+ Heatsink - already own but I plan to upgrade soon.
> 4 AP-15 GT's - Already own.
> Corsair Vengeance - already own.
> Any 7850 - Not yet bought but planning to upgrade every 2 years.
> With those specs and with knowing Haswell is around the corner can I use this pc for at least the next 3-4 years and still be pretty relevant?


I think it's a sound investment. The warranty really can't be beat. Just keep in mind, if you plan on going xfire go with the V Gene. The Sabertooth lowers PCI bandwidth to x8 when 2 slots are populated. I personally wasn't ready for that, but doing research the consensus is that there isn't much of a performance hit.

"Our Asus Sabertooth is not 3 WAY SLI capable right folks?" Yes it is tri-sli..but what the reviews fail to mention is that it lowers it pci bandwidth. I'm not sure if it lower to x8 when 3 are used but when 2 are used it lowers it to x8. Also when you enable the 3rd one you lose your 3 x1 pci slots.
I would stick with dual cards.


----------



## iARDAs

@ Blatsz32

Thank you

I will be sticking to a 2way SLI than.


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krazyaaron*
> 
> Hey I just built a rig and have this motherboard. Ive checked all my connections and it seems like everything should go fine, but pressing the power button does nothing. When I switch on my power supply, a green light on the mobo lights up, as well as the usb bios flash blue light on the back, but pressing the power button just does nothing. I have checked the power switch hookups and it should be working, but I cant figure out whats wrong. Anyone have a suggestion?
> Thanks, Aaron


The BIOS Flashback button/light should not be on unless you are actually flashing the BIOS. Take all of the case header connections off and make sure it is ok with just the 8pin and 24pin ATX connections.


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> @ Blatsz32
> 
> Thank you
> 
> I will be sticking to a 2way SLI than.


Another important thing to remember is that the Sabertooth supports 2 slots of PCIe *3.0*. One slot and card running at 3.0 speeds will have more bandwidth than 2x of the 2.0 cards at 16x.


----------



## Blatsz32

"No GPU can max PCIe 2.x let alone 3.0 slots. Getting a mobo with 3.0 slots is really a future proofing exercise that in all honesty I dont think you will see a benefit for a couple of years."

we haven't used u the capacity of 2.0x16 slots yet. 3.0 won't come into play till the end of the year or so. Either way having a 3.0 PCI slot is still nice cause we are future proofed.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Not that I know of, but would really like one.
> I had my OC stable at 1.15vcore and 1.5vPLL, but it crashed during games :-/
> Had to raise it to 1.17 to not crash during games.
> disable the speed step and c1e in bios to prevent downclocking iirc.


Thanks bud. I'll give it a shot tonight and see how it goes.


----------



## OcTroll

Did you guys apply new thermal paste on the H100 when installing or is the one already on there good to go?

Thanks!


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcTroll*
> 
> Did you guys apply new thermal paste on the H100 when installing or is the one already on there good to go?
> Thanks!


The one already on it is excellent. Don't apply any new thermal paste.

I got 24 C idle temp when booted it for the first time on it.


----------



## Blatsz32

My watercooling loop is down, my pump failed. Y you make poopy pump Thermaltake? oh well. Going to have to buy a good pump and stick with th stock 3570k cooler...it's not to bad actually.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

I have an external USB drive that is compatible with usb 3.0. It has music on it that I used usb 2.0 to put on. Now when trying to read the music off usb 3.0 it asks me if I want to format the drive and it keeps trying to initialize the drive. Do we have to manually update the USB drivers on the sabertooth?


----------



## pjneder

Well, I RMA'd my Sabertooth back to Newegg. Gah, I am beyond stupid. I spent so much time to make it look nice and clean when I sent it back however I FORGOT to take the backing plate off for my Noctua NH-14D!!!!







I've put in a request to Newegg RMA dept to look for it. Any idea on the odds of getting that back?

Meanwhile I went to the CompUSA up the street, who just happened to have 2 Sabertooth's in stock. One ended up on my bench...how'd that happen?







I had a serious case of the instant gratificationitist.

Got Win7 Ultimate installed on my Raid0 SSD array. Initial boot time ~20 sec. I installed the drivers and AI suite from Asus DVD and now I'm up to ~52 sec!?!?! Is there something I should take off or disable? That was a horrible increase for the drivers, no anti-virus or any other cruft yet.

On another note, whats the consensus on the Assist Fans? Joy or crap?

Thanks.


----------



## krazyaaron

Thanks everyone for your replies to my problem, I definately had an "I'm a ******" moment when I read all your replies and it suddenly clicked, oh! that's not a flashing BIOS light, its a button!! Haha, unclicked it and machine is booting up fine, installing windows right now, thanks guys!!


----------



## likethegun

Hey guys I need help! I think i'm going to go insane... So I have the Corsair professional series AX850, trying to wire up my new rig, but I don't think Corsair gave me the correct EATX12v cable!!! It comes with two, but neither of them are pinned properly for the Sabertooth z77.

Does anyone have an experience with this??

Thanks!


----------



## albatross_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> I think it's a sound investment. The warranty really can't be beat. Just keep in mind, if you plan on going xfire go with the V Gene. The Sabertooth lowers PCI bandwidth to x8 when 2 slots are populated. I personally wasn't ready for that, but doing research the consensus is that there isn't much of a performance hit.
> "Our Asus Sabertooth is not 3 WAY SLI capable right folks?" Yes it is tri-sli..but what the reviews fail to mention is that it lowers it pci bandwidth. I'm not sure if it lower to x8 when 3 are used but when 2 are used it lowers it to x8. Also when you enable the 3rd one you lose your 3 x1 pci slots.
> I would stick with dual cards.


Wait correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression that since the Sabertooth is on PCI-E 3.0, the lowering of the lanes to x8 would essentially be still equal to a x16 PCI-E 2.0 lane since the bandwidth is doubled. So technically the lowering to x8 is a non-issue.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Ignore.


----------



## PaulZ001337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> The not being able to shut down power bug seems to be effecting Z77 boards and Nvidia combinations. Not all OCN members have their specs listed hard to say exact pin point.
> (Which btw makes it very helpful to list your BIO specs if your seeking help, by helping those helping you know what your dealing with).
> As mentioned on prior posts was caused by the 301.34 graphics drivers. *Rolling back to 301.25 fixed the issue*. OR other solution is just use sleep mode when walking away from your computer. It has no wake from sleep bugs and next driver release it will be addressed. If your one of those that power down when you leave from your system then you should roll back to previous driver.
> Welcome to OCN PaulZ


Thank you for your reply. I am using AMD ATi HD7870 DirectCUII but not Nvidia.

On the other hand, the options "Turbo Ratio" and "Internal PLL overvoltage" are missing under Ai Tweaker menu. I tried to update my BIOS but these option are still disappear.

My build:
CPU: i5 2500k
Mother Board: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth
RAM: 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance DD3 1866
Graphic card: ASUS ATi HD7870DirectCUII
SSD: Samsung 830 128GB

Hope someone can help. Thank you.


----------



## JollyMan

Having an issue with shutting down my comp. When i go to shutdown the fans stay on. I have to hold down the power button to get the cop to go ff. Then when i reboot it says "overclocking failed go to bios and adjust settings", or something to that effect. This is after i just passed 8 hours of prime95 blend testing with no errors. I went into bios, didnt change anything with overclock, I disabled the option to make the fans run after shutting down. and rebooted. Tried shutting down from windows again and still the fans run.

I have seen some of you guys with a similar issue, any solution for the problem yet? I am running 0906 bios. Will updating bios fix the issue?

Thanks


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Having an issue with shutting down my comp. When i go to shutdown the fans stay on. I have to hold down the power button to get the cop to go ff. Then when i reboot it says "overclocking failed go to bios and adjust settings", or something to that effect. This is after i just passed 8 hours of prime95 blend testing with no errors. I went into bios, didnt change anything with overclock, I disabled the option to make the fans run after shutting down. and rebooted. Tried shutting down from windows again and still the fans run.
> I have seen some of you guys with a similar issue, any solution for the problem yet? I am running 0906 bios. Will updating bios fix the issue?
> Thanks


Are you using the latest beta drivers? The issue you have is common with those drivers. 301.24 if i am not mistaken.

Also do you always get the overclocking fail message? if not dont worry about it. I had a very stable CPU OC and few of the times i also encountered that message, nothing to worry about.


----------



## JollyMan

using 296.1 official from nvidia website. And yes i do get the fail overclock everytime. Maybe i should try and go to beta driver above 296.1??

Thanks for the reassurance!


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> using 296.1 official from nvidia website. And yes i do get the fail overclock everytime. Maybe i should try and go to beta driver above 296.1??
> Thanks for the reassurance!


I have been having the same shutdown problem however I am running a 7970 so I wonder how I can get mine fixed.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I have been having the same shutdown problem however I am running a 7970 so I wonder how I can get mine fixed.


Are you on an ASUS Sabertooth Z77 mobo too using Ivy? I'm assuming since you posted here you are. Rig is showing you with an AMD CPU.

Trying to figure out the common denominator to the issue and whom is being effected.
I'm experiencing the same power down problem.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Are you on an ASUS Sabertooth Z77 mobo too using Ivy? I'm assuming since you posted here you are. Rig is showing you with an AMD CPU.
> Trying to figure out the common denominator to the issue and whom is being effected.
> I'm experiencing the same power down problem.


Yea, look at my intel system.


----------



## Zantrill

hmm. All of you having probs with Saber/Ivy? I' get my DDR3 Mem next Thursday and will finally have my Sabertooth/3570K up and running. Will I be disappointed ?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> hmm. All of you having probs with Saber/Ivy? I' get my DDR3 Mem next Thursday and will finally have my Sabertooth/3570K up and running. Will I be disappointed ?


No not all. Limited. It an issue when we shut windows off and though windows shut down the case, GPU, CPU (if you have fans on CPU), and mother board fans all stay powered up. A hard shut down is required but no problem restarting up.

Also there is no issues with powering down to go to sleep or waking up from sleep there's no problems at all. So if you don't shut off your computer and you just put it to sleep and wake up from sleep you have no problems.

I'm sure that there's going to be a driver update that's an easy fix to shut it down. I have had a good suggestion from another OCN member to disable hibernate but that didn't work.


----------



## Zantrill

ok, thanks. And I don't ever use hibernate. I have had MANY problems in the past with it stemming back to Win 98. It even killed an HDD once.


----------



## microc

i got my motherboard to do it twice. I just unplugged it from the wall after i turned it off by holding the off button in. i left the power supply drain. i5-3540. 8g of gskills ram (f3-12800cl9q-16gbsr) yes it not on the qal list. video card is a 550ti in a antec one gaming case..550w dablotec (sp??) power supply. intel 520 ssd with seagate one gig drive as the data drive. has bios 1015 and the ram is using the xmp profile of 1600 at 9-9-9 1.5v. the second time was when i reloaded windows 8 cs. cpu cooler is entermax with 140mm fan. I have the two case fans plugged into ps molex. I also have 2 blue led strips plugged into the molex plug. non overclocked the cpu is running stock 3.1 speeds. im thiking is could be there new digi power that is having issue thinking the mb was is going into sleep mode and thrying to wake up/reboots.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Hey guys I need help! I think i'm going to go insane... So I have the Corsair professional series AX850, trying to wire up my new rig, but I don't think Corsair gave me the correct EATX12v cable!!! It comes with two, but neither of them are pinned properly for the Sabertooth z77.
> Does anyone have an experience with this??
> Thanks!


I guess everyone is ignoring me... So I suppose I should ask this in a different way. Is anyone else running a 4 pin connector to their EATx12v on the mobo instead of 8?

The corsair pro series AX850 comes with 2 eatx12v cables, but neither of them are pinned properly for the sabertooth (actually doing some forum running and it sounds like it's a problem with just about all ASUS boards with the corsair ax850 psu).

Anyway, I had to just connect the 4 pin to the psu and the 8 pin to the power, but I would REALLY like to be able to use an 8 pin to the mobo for better stabiility. I'm trying to find out two things. First, how is corsair's customer service in regards to replacing/offering parts? Second, does anyone else have a 4 pin eatx12v to their board and if so, have you had any issues?

Thanks guys.


----------



## alex1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I guess everyone is ignoring me... So I suppose I should ask this in a different way. Is anyone else running a 4 pin connector to their EATx12v on the mobo instead of 8?
> The corsair pro series AX850 comes with 2 eatx12v cables, but neither of them are pinned properly for the sabertooth (actually doing some forum running and it sounds like it's a problem with just about all ASUS boards with the corsair ax850 psu).
> Anyway, I had to just connect the 4 pin to the psu and the 8 pin to the power, but I would REALLY like to be able to use an 8 pin to the mobo for better stabiility. I'm trying to find out two things. First, how is corsair's customer service in regards to replacing/offering parts? Second, does anyone else have a 4 pin eatx12v to their board and if so, have you had any issues?
> Thanks guys.


GAH! Ive got the AX750 and it has the same cables as the 850 and now im afraid of buying the board! I hope this isnt a big issue D: if it helps im getting bitfenix extension cables so does any1 know if thatll fix it aswel?

cheers guys, help us out!


----------



## twitchyzero

hey everyone

i am currently contemplating between this mobo and the P877-V Pro

I haven't seen any reviews that compare the two side-by-side

I want to know which one can achieve a higher stable overclock...I realize the V Pro has 12+4 VRM while the Sabertooth has 8+4+2.

I will be going with the 3570K

I am also afraid the TUF armour will get in the way of liquid cooling options like the H100 and the upcoming CM Eisberg


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> hey everyone
> i am currently contemplating between this mobo and the P877-V Pro
> I haven't seen any reviews that compare the two side-by-side
> I want to know which one can achieve a higher stable overclock...I realize the V Pro has 12+4 VRM while the Sabertooth has 8+4+2.
> I will be going with the 3570K
> I am also afraid the TUF armour will get in the way of liquid cooling options like the H100 and the upcoming CM Eisberg


The H100 will be fine on this board.


----------



## Awful

Just got back from UPS (yeah, so what if I went at 7 am before they put it on the truck?) I'm impatient! Can't wait to get this in. Going to be a several day long game-a-thon. Sorry for low quality not diggin' out the dslr at 7:54 am. I'm a noon+ kind of guy.


Also hangin out in the pic i7-3770k


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awful*
> 
> Just got back from UPS (yeah, so what if I went at 7 am before they put it on the truck?) I'm impatient! Can't wait to get this in. Going to be a several day long game-a-thon. Sorry for low quality not diggin' out the dslr at 7:54 am. I'm a noon+ kind of guy.
> 
> Also hangin out in the pic i7-3770k


----------



## supercross

Hi, currently have my Z77 working great, apart from the fact that the rear eSata ports do not work.

Both devices I am trying to use work perfectly on my laptop, but do not power up or show up in device manager.

The ports are enabled in the bios, but are there some extra drivers I need to install or something?


----------



## djchapm

@pneder - Would like to see what you find out with SSD on RAID 0, Figured this would boot faster than 20s let alone 52s. I saw something in another forum, can't remember where, maybe extremesystems - saying ASUS boards will try to load a lot of additional drivers/tools that aren't needed, can't find it though.


----------



## thegane20100

hey guys is the problem with the corsair ax 850 is real or what

and do you think the seasonic platinum 860w full modular beter than the corsair thnx


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> hey guys is the problem with the corsair ax 850 is real or what
> and do you think the seasonic platinum 860w full modular beter than the corsair thnx


The Corsair AX850 is a gold certified PSU Professional grade. It's recieived great reviews from multiple sources. Ultra low ripple and effective even beyond wattage specs.









No wrong choice between AX850 or Seasonic Platnium 860 at all.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> hey guys is the problem with the corsair ax 850 is real or what
> and do you think the seasonic platinum 860w full modular beter than the corsair thnx


I prefer the seasonic, but both are awesome.


----------



## microc

for that slow raid boot...check that your using the newer drivers on intel web page and your using the brown and not the sliver ports. the silver ports are run by another controller.


----------



## dimitryi

Wow, looks like I am not the only one having having the shut down power issues. Every time I shut down my PC, the fans keep spinning and the LEDs stay lit. Happens when I put my computer into Sleep mode too. I've just been dealing with it for now by flicking the power supply switch off, but it is getting annoying.

Here's the info on my system in case it's helpful tracking down the problem.

Motherboard: Asus Z77 Sabertooth (BIOS 1015)
Processor: Intel i5-2500k
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz - 16GB (2x8GB)
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6950 (Catalyst Suite 12.4)
Storage: Crucial m4 128GB SSD and Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB SATA HDD
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit


----------



## darkphantom

Fans as in the mobo fans or what? I know the fans on the armor spin for a bit but eventually turn off.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Fans as in the mobo fans or what? I know the fans on the armor spin for a bit but eventually turn off.


and I remember reading that this is normal.


----------



## Tslm

I haven't had the shutdown problem on this board but I had it for a bit on the Crosshair V. Flashing to the newest bios and then clearing cmos using the jumper and removing the cmos battery fixed the problem. Its more likely a bios issue than a nvidia one


----------



## Sxcerino

the mobo fans (the two small ones) aren't suppose to turn off after your pc turns off. There's an option to stop them from doing that however in bios. It's called Over fan or something.

if you're having the mobo fan won't turn off "problem"


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> the mobo fans (the two small ones) aren't suppose to turn off after your pc turns off. There's an option to stop them from doing that however in bios. It's called Over fan or something.
> if you're having the mobo fan won't turn off "problem"


It's ALL the case fans and GPU fans that won't turn off. Including any LED lights you have in the case, not just the mini mobo fans.

Has anyone tried rolling back a driver set? Did it work?


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I guess everyone is ignoring me... So I suppose I should ask this in a different way. Is anyone else running a 4 pin connector to their EATx12v on the mobo instead of 8?
> The corsair pro series AX850 comes with 2 eatx12v cables, but neither of them are pinned properly for the sabertooth (actually doing some forum running and it sounds like it's a problem with just about all ASUS boards with the corsair ax850 psu).
> Anyway, I had to just connect the 4 pin to the psu and the 8 pin to the power, but I would REALLY like to be able to use an 8 pin to the mobo for better stabiility. I'm trying to find out two things. First, how is corsair's customer service in regards to replacing/offering parts? Second, does anyone else have a 4 pin eatx12v to their board and if so, have you had any issues?
> Thanks guys.


Not ignoring, I just haven't caught back up since I was doing a final assembly on my rig tonight. The "Beast with a Billion Backs" is up and running!

Anyway, I am using only the 4 pin connector so far with no problems. My old P5Q-Deluxe only needed the 4 pin and I had the extension cable to route that one properly. My PSU has an 8pin EATX but it isn't long enough to go from bottom of Antec 1200 to top of the board. I have no idea if it causes stability issues or whatnot. I'm not pushing my CPU past stock voltages and a simple 4.4GHz overclock.

You should be plenty fine AFAICT.

Cheers!


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchapm*
> 
> @pneder - Would like to see what you find out with SSD on RAID 0, Figured this would boot faster than 20s let alone 52s. I saw something in another forum, can't remember where, maybe extremesystems - saying ASUS boards will try to load a lot of additional drivers/tools that aren't needed, can't find it though.


I got this sorted out, at least on my setup. The naughty piece was the Realtek driver package and utilities garbage. Installing that piece added 25s to my boot!!!







It is not necessary unless you like the auto detect plugin or you use any of that equalization junk. The base drivers come in Windows and work just fine. I would avoid installing that package if possible.

As to my boot time it stabilized right around 30-35s. That is Win7 Ultimate 64b with all Intel drivers, ASMedia USB and SATA drivers, ATI CCC, AISuite and Avast anti-virus. With both of the SATA BootROMs and BIOS I get ~14s until the Starting Windows screen. That is almost as long as all of the software combined. The Z77 Sabertooth has so many devices that have to be enumerated and init'd as well as the fan software, etc it takes a while. That is a side-effect of having a feature rich board such as this one.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjneder*
> 
> Not ignoring, I just haven't caught back up since I was doing a final assembly on my rig tonight. The "Beast with a Billion Backs" is up and running!
> Anyway, I am using only the 4 pin connector so far with no problems. My old P5Q-Deluxe only needed the 4 pin and I had the extension cable to route that one properly. My PSU has an 8pin EATX but it isn't long enough to go from bottom of Antec 1200 to top of the board. I have no idea if it causes stability issues or whatnot. I'm not pushing my CPU past stock voltages and a simple 4.4GHz overclock.
> You should be plenty fine AFAICT.
> Cheers!


Yeah, I just went with the 4 pin as I was impatient, but trying to do some more research before I push my OC. I'm just at a measly 4.2 now. My thoughts are that if they put an 8 pin on the board, it must be for a reason...? Haha thanks!


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex1337*
> 
> GAH! Ive got the AX750 and it has the same cables as the 850 and now im afraid of buying the board! I hope this isnt a big issue D: if it helps im getting bitfenix extension cables so does any1 know if thatll fix it aswel?
> cheers guys, help us out!


No problems at all with the psu. Matter of fact it IS top of the line quality. The only issue I was discussing is the eatx12v cables they include (supposedly for various compatibilty, both of which have 2x4 pin side-by-sides for 4 pin mobo connect) aren't the correct ones for the sabertooth z77 (and just about any other asus 8 pin board i have run across). Therefore, the only issue is you have to run the 4 pin instead of the 8 pin. Which may or may not be an issue...? That is what we are trying to figure out in regards to stability.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twitchyzero*
> 
> hey everyone
> i am currently contemplating between this mobo and the P877-V Pro
> I haven't seen any reviews that compare the two side-by-side
> I want to know which one can achieve a higher stable overclock...I realize the V Pro has 12+4 VRM while the Sabertooth has 8+4+2.
> I will be going with the 3570K
> I am also afraid the TUF armour will get in the way of liquid cooling options like the H100 and the upcoming CM Eisberg


The armor doesn't get in the way of anything, actually may help in many instances. I am running an H100 and it has more than enough room. The eisberg is taller than the h100, but doesn't look much wider (if at all) so should fit just fine as well.

Here is a link that helped me make the very decision you are facing regarding the mobo! http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/pc-components/motherboards/asus-sabertooth-z77-1075395/review there was another that I can't seem to find right now.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> It's ALL the case fans and GPU fans that won't turn off. Including any LED lights you have in the case, not just the mini mobo fans.
> Has anyone tried rolling back a driver set? Did it work?


I am kind of leaning toward 2 possibilities. First, I'm wondering if it has to do with the fan overtime settings or the AI suite II controls in general. I don't know how many previous versions there are, but maybe something off there... I realize this wouldn't account necessarily for the gpu fans continuing to spin... but?

The second possibilty that I tam leaning towards is i'm wondering if this has to maybe do with the intel rapid smart technology or windows power saving options. Have you tried disabling the rapid start technology and messing with the power saving options in windows?

Or maybe a mix of both... As in the OS thinks its powering the system off, but it's really just going into S3 or something.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I am kind of leaning toward 2 possibilities. First, I'm wondering if it has to do with the fan overtime settings. Did you try disabling fan overtime? I realize this wouldn't account for the gpu fans continuing to spin... but that may just be a fluke. The second possibilty that I think is probably the culprit is i'm wondering if this has to maybe do with the intel rapid smart technology or windows standby modes. As in the OS thinks its powering the system off, but it's really just going into S3 or something. Have you tried disabling the rapid start technology and messing with the power saving options in windows?


Yes I have it disabled in the bios and still no luck, havent disabled the fabs though. Will try


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Yes I have it disabled in the bios and still no luck, havent disabled the fabs though. Will try


There are 3 unique things that likethegun was referring to:

1. Fan overtime (which *should* only run the 2 assist fans)
2. Intel Smart Response Technology (which is the drive caching trick)
3. Intel Rapid Start Technology (which is the smart sleep/restart trick)

There is a 4th here as well called the Intel Smart Connect (which wakes up the computer to check for updates).

The *Rapid Start Technology* will bring the computer back awake right after you sleep it while it saves off state to the SSD hibernation partition. That will make it seem like the fans are still running, because they are until it finishes.

The Smart Connect does I don't know what because I haven't enabled it.

Numbers 2-3 are configured in the PCH settings in BIOS. Make sure you have that turned off as well as the Fan overtime. Speaking for FanOvertime there is a place in BIOS *and* in the AISuite to turn that on/off. Make sure it is off in both places just in case.

Hope this helps. Otherwise you have a poltergeist in your BIOS/CMOS and might have to RMA.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjneder*
> 
> There are 3 unique things that likethegun was referring to:
> 1. Fan overtime (which *should* only run the 2 assist fans)
> 2. Intel Smart Response Technology (which is the drive caching trick)
> 3. Intel Rapid Start Technology (which is the smart sleep/restart trick)
> There is a 4th here as well called the Intel Smart Connect (which wakes up the computer to check for updates).
> The *Rapid Start Technology* will bring the computer back awake right after you sleep it while it saves off state to the SSD hibernation partition. That will make it seem like the fans are still running, because they are until it finishes.
> The Smart Connect does I don't know what because I haven't enabled it.
> Numbers 2-3 are configured in the PCH settings in BIOS. Make sure you have that turned off as well as the Fan overtime. Speaking for FanOvertime there is a place in BIOS *and* in the AISuite to turn that on/off. Make sure it is off in both places just in case.
> Hope this helps. Otherwise you have a poltergeist in your BIOS/CMOS and might have to RMA.


Atm I have all of that disabled and still no luck, I posted in the Asus forum but haven't got a reply yet.
May try the cmos jumper.


----------



## navit

Well sometimes I feel like a total moron. I cleared the cmos with the jumper and wouldnt ya know it, shut down just like it should







.
There are times I would really just like to







myself.


----------



## Orc Warlord

Hey guys I put together my build finally and I have this motherboard.

Its paired up with a i7 3770k, and I'm wondering if someone will help me with overclocking it.

What all do I have to change?

How do I turn off turbo and igpu?

What settings for PLL, LLC, etc.?

Basically, this is my first time overclocking and I would appreciate it if other sabertooth z77 owners would help a newbie out









Thx!


----------



## dimitryi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> It's ALL the case fans and GPU fans that won't turn off. Including any LED lights you have in the case, not just the mini mobo fans.
> Has anyone tried rolling back a driver set? Did it work?


Second this. It's every single fan in the case that keeps running as well as my case LEDs. I am also seeing strange behavior with sleep mode. My computer went to sleep while idle this morning and I couldn't wake it. Not via any USB devices and not even by pressing the power button. I held down the power button for a few seconds and everything went off. Then I pressed the power button again and it resumed from sleep, with my open applications still open.

I'll be looking into this today and I'll try some of the suggestions here. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


----------



## dimitryi

Just ran two tests suggested over on the Asus Republic of Gamers forum.
Quote:


> First test: Drained the motherboard power. I shut down Windows, switched off the power supply, and unplugged the power cord for ten minutes.
> 
> Result: No change. I powered back on after ten minutes, let Windows load up fully, then shut down again. All fans kept running and case LEDs stayed lit up after shutdown.


Quote:


> Second test: Returned the BIOS to defaults. Went into the BIOS (v1015) and pressed F5 to return the BIOS to optimized defaults. Saved the settings and exited with F10.
> 
> Result: No change. Windows booted up fully and then I shut down again. Fans stayed running and case LEDs stayed on after shutdown.


So neither of those two suggestions fixed the shut down issue. Next I'm going to go into the BIOS and make sure the following are disabled: Fan Overtime, Intel Smart Response, and Intel Rapid Start.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimitryi*
> 
> Second this. It's every single fan in the case that keeps running as well as my case LEDs. I am also seeing strange behavior with sleep mode. My computer went to sleep while idle this morning and I couldn't wake it. Not via any USB devices and not even by pressing the power button. I held down the power button for a few seconds and everything went off. Then I pressed the power button again and it resumed from sleep, with my open applications still open.
> I'll be looking into this today and I'll try some of the suggestions here. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimitryi*
> 
> Just ran two tests suggested over on the Asus Republic of Gamers forum.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> First test: Drained the motherboard power. I shut down Windows, switched off the power supply, and unplugged the power cord for ten minutes.
> Result: No change. I powered back on after ten minutes, let Windows load up fully, then shut down again. All fans kept running and case LEDs stayed lit up after shutdown.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Second test: Returned the BIOS to defaults. Went into the BIOS (v1015) and pressed F5 to return the BIOS to optimized defaults. Saved the settings and exited with F10.
> Result: No change. Windows booted up fully and then I shut down again. Fans stayed running and case LEDs stayed on after shutdown.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So neither of those two suggestions fixed the shut down issue. Next I'm going to go into the BIOS and make sure the following are disabled: Fan Overtime, Intel Smart Response, and Intel Rapid Start.
Click to expand...

Guys try the CMOS jumper, it worked for me . Now it shuts down as it should.


----------



## dimitryi

Third test: Went into the BIOS and made sure the following were disabled: Fan Overtime, Intel Rapid Start, and Intel Smart Response. The latter two were already disabled by default, but I turned off Fan Overtime.

Result: No change. Windows booted up fully, then I shut down and the fans kept running and the case LEDs stayed lit.

Next up is resetting the CMOS jumper.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimitryi*
> 
> Third test: Went into the BIOS and made sure the following were disabled: Fan Overtime, Intel Rapid Start, and Intel Smart Response. The latter two were already disabled by default, but I turned off Fan Overtime.
> Result: No change. Windows booted up fully, then I shut down and the fans kept running and the case LEDs stayed lit.
> Next up is resetting the CMOS jumper.


----------



## dimitryi

Uh oh, that wasn't so good.

Fourth test: Reset the CMOS. Powered off, unplugged, and let any power drain for about five minutes. Moved the CMOS jumper from the 1-2 position to the 2-3 position for ten seconds. Put the jumper back to the 1-2 position. Plugged the power back in and started it up.

Result: not good. I can't get past POST now. The motherboard LEDs indicate a DRAM problem. This actually happened to me last Tuesday when I put all these components together. I'm not even sure how I fixed it, I had chalked it up to not having one of the DIMMs seated properly. But I didn't touch the DIMMs this time. Now I've got to figure out how to fix that again so I can even get past POST.


----------



## dimitryi

Good news!

I was able to correct the DRAM POST issue by using the MemOK button on the z77 motherboard. I pressed that until it was flashing, let the system reboot and it got past POST. I went into the BIOS and it looks like it downclocked my 1600MHz DRAM to 1333MHz. I've been told that since I have a Sandy Bridge processor this is normal, because 1600MHz is considered overclocked for a Sandy Bridge proc. Still, I wonder if I should be concerned that my computer will not boot if the RAM is at its manufactured speed.

Also good news is that once I fixed the DRAM issue, now when I shut down, the fans and case LEDs shut off properly. So Navit gets props for that suggestion; it appears to have worked for me.


----------



## bfgDennis

For some reason the Intel LAN driver or the built in card is causing me to have slow upload speeds, does anyone else have this issue ?


----------



## iARDAs

Do you guys use the Auto Cpu OCing on this board? or do it manually?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimitryi*
> 
> Good news!
> I fixed the DRAM issue, now when I shut down, the fans and case LEDs shut off properly. So Navit gets props for that suggestion; it appears to have worked for me.


Glad it worked for you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Do you guys use the Auto Cpu OCing on this board? or do it manually?


manual
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfgDennis*
> 
> For some reason the Intel LAN driver or the built in card is causing me to have slow upload speeds, does anyone else have this issue ?


yes on some sites, ocn included.


----------



## Mp0wer

Does anyone know if ai suite ll will load a overclock preset when windows loads?


----------



## JWMutant

Has anyone notice any odd reading for the Vcore (Back) when using ASUS Suite 2.

More to the point has anyone ever heard of Vcore (Back).

Temp for this sensor is saying 122.0 degrees centigrade.

The actual Vcore temp is fine at 30 odd degrees


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWMutant*
> 
> Has anyone notice any odd reading for the Vcore (Back) when using ASUS Suite 2.
> More to the point has anyone ever heard of Vcore (Back).
> Temp for this sensor is saying 122.0 degrees centigrade.
> The actual Vcore temp is fine at 30 odd degrees


Vcore back is a temp sensor located near the chokes, mine reads 30c

BTW nice avatar


----------



## JWMutant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Vcore back is a temp sensor located near the chokes, mine reads 30c
> BTW nice avatar


Cheers,

So the question is should I be concerned with the odd temp knowing the actual Vcore temp is fine.

And is that sensor viewable in Bios so I can at least confirm the temp reading.


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JWMutant*
> 
> Cheers,
> So the question is should I be concerned with the odd temp knowing the actual Vcore temp is fine.
> And is that sensor viewable in Bios so I can at least confirm the temp reading.


The sensor could be giving you a false reading, here is a picture with the location of that sensor, not sure if you can read it in the bios?

Also do you have a temperature gun to check the temp in that location to see if it is showing the right temp?


----------



## JWMutant

I am sure it is simply a false reading but will open up the case and see if I can find anything.

What gives it away that its a false reading is it takes about 20 seconds to go from powered off state to being on the desktop and ASUS suite give me the reading of 122 degrees straight off the bat.

And there is no way on gods green earth it will give that temp in 20 seconds specials seeing as I dont overclock.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> The only issue I was discussing is the eatx12v cables they include (supposedly for various compatibilty, both of which have 2x4 pin side-by-sides for 4 pin mobo connect) aren't the correct ones for the sabertooth z77 (and just about any other asus 8 pin board i have run across)


I have no issue connecting ax850's 8pin motherboard cable to either rampage 3 formula or z77 sabertooth.
Either you are mounting it wrong or your cable is faulty.
Post a pic.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Do you guys use the Auto Cpu OCing on this board? or do it manually?


I've played around with both. With the auto, vcore is way too high for the benefit... it auto clocks at 3.8-3.9 for stability without you having to touch anything, but it pushes 1.2v+ ... I was able to get a stable clock with the Ai suite II at 4.5 but my vcore was between 1.31-1.33. My rig is still brand new so I haven't had time to manually OC it yet. Have only had it for 4 days and I work grave yards







But the gain from all the auto garbage is definitely not worth it in my opinion. Can be MUCH more efficient (according to other's results) with a manual OC.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I have no issue connecting ax850's 8pin motherboard cable to either rampage 3 formula or z77 sabertooth.
> Either you are mounting it wrong or your cable is faulty.
> Post a pic.


Cables are just fine and I don't think I know what you mean by mounting it wrong... I think that would be impossible. It's a modular and the connector is part of the mobo... the problem is the 8 pin mobo connect has the square, round, round, square but the cables are round,round,round, square. If that makes no sense I will can try to better explain.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mp0wer*
> 
> Does anyone know if ai suite ll will load a overclock preset when windows loads?


Nope, it's not designed that way. You can save the profile, but it does not change the BIOS settings. So if you are using ai suite, you have to save the profile, then just load it when windows starts to get your exact settings back. I highly dislike the program for what it's worth... the sabertooth has a great BIOS so the program is not really needed. The only thing I have used it for (i have only had my rig set up for 4 days though) has been to monitor fans and heat on area of the mobo.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> the problem is the 8 pin mobo connect has the square, round, round, square but the cables are round,round,round, square. If that makes no sense I will can try to better explain.


I get what you mean mate, but just don't worry about the patterns.
All "rounds" fit into the "squares" without a problem.

sabertooth-ax850.jpg 215k .jpg file


sabertooth-ax850b.jpg 268k .jpg file


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I get what you mean mate, but just don't worry about the patterns.
> All "rounds" fit into the "squares" without a problem.


The rounds fit in the squares yes, but the squares dont fit in the rounds, which is where the problem lies... Do you actually have the ax850? Because it clearly does not come with the correct 8 pin cable, and no matter what you try, you will not be able to plug an 8 pin into the sabertooth. I realize I can just purchase a seperate cable, but the main topic stemmed from wondering if this was an error on corsairs part (meaning I got an incorrect cable), and if anyone has had stability issues just running a 4 pin to eatx.

EDIT:I don't think I have the same cable as the one in your pictures. I tried everything and messed around and triple checked everything for a good 20 mins thinking I was going crazy... I will look again, but dont think my 4 pins are set up the same.


----------



## Jacer200

I just recently installed the Sabertooth in my new build. I went over to Asus website downloaded and installed all the updated drivers. I installed all the utilities from the download section for the Sabertooth and found that I had a ton of processes running in the background. So I uninstalled just the utilities and now I get an error at when I first turn on my computer. I would appreciate it if anyone had any ideas on how to remedy this problem.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Do you actually have the ax850? Because it clearly does not come with the correct 8 pin cable, and no matter what you try, you will not be able to plug an 8 pin into the sabertooth.
> ...
> I will look again, but dont think my 4 pins are set up the same.


I do own an ax850 and a sabertooth z77 also.
The pics I showed you are not random google pics, they are mine, I took them this morning.

How about taking a picture of your cable and let's compare it to mine.
(there are two of those cables in the ax850 bundle if the one inside your case is troubling to photograph)

Isn't one 4pin with only "round" pins in your cable?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacer200*
> 
> I just recently installed the Sabertooth in my new build. I went over to Asus website downloaded and installed all the updated drivers. I installed all the utilities from the download section for the Sabertooth and found that I had a ton of processes running in the background. So I uninstalled just the utilities and now I get an error at when I first turn on my computer. I would appreciate it if anyone had any ideas on how to remedy this problem.


Just a do a clean install on your OS.
No need to install every piece of software Asus has. Only install what you're going to use.


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Was thinking of getting this board. Did a search and couldn't find the answer to this question.

Can I remove the thermal armor? And 2- does it void the warranty? I've seen a few pictures of it without the armor and I was just curious.

Also will it default my 1600 ram to 1600? Or still 1333







thanks


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SocksWthSandals*
> 
> Was thinking of getting this board. Did a search and couldn't find the answer to this question.
> Can I remove the thermal armor? And 2- does it void the warranty? I've seen a few pictures of it without the armor and I was just curious.
> Also will it default my 1600 ram to 1600? Or still 1333
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


You can remove the armor via ~8 screws on the back. You have to do this should you need to service the CMOS battery. The warranty states that the product should not be altered by non-authorized facilities. It is ambiguous about whether removing the thermal armor is an alteration. The installations of the Assist fans is optional, so maybe the armor is optional...

The BIOS will default to the JEDEC profile in the ram. AFAIK speeds over 1333 are in XMP profiles, which must be selected from the BIOS.


----------



## SocksWthSandals

I was thinking of calling tomorrow to ask. I can't imagine removing that would void the warranty :/


----------



## Jacer200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Just a do a clean install on your OS.
> No need to install every piece of software Asus has. Only install what you're going to use.


Lol i'm such a noob and apparently a terrible google searcher. I found the problem.

Removed with register editor next lines:

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Schedule\TaskCache\Tree\ASUS\i-Setup180917]
"Id"="{4960FFCF-AAED-4C16-AE65-B0BE6C318F7E}"
"Index"=dword:00000002"
NT\CurrentVersion\Schedule\TaskCache\Tree\ASUS\i-Setup 202634]
"Id"="{4960FFCF-AAED-4C16-AE65-B0BE6C318F7E}"
"Index"=dword:00000002"
NT\CurrentVersion\Schedule\TaskCache\Tree\ASUS\i-Setup 202634]
"Id"="{4960FFCF-AAED-4C16-AE65-B0BE6C318F7E}"
"Index"=dword:00000002"


----------



## duffy502

Any advice for slowing my cooler down, it's the only fan in the case I can hear.
I have changed the setting in the bios to silent, but it is still spinning at about 570rpm.
I have an 3770k oc'd to 4.3 the temp is 32 at idle
My cooler is a Dark Rock Pro with is obviously power by the mobo, all the chassis fans are connected to my fan controller in my Haf-x.
The cooler is supposed to be approx 20db, but is actually 52?


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duffy502*
> 
> Any advice for slowing my cooler down, it's the only fan in the case I can hear.
> I have changed the setting in the bios to silent, but it is still spinning at about 570rpm.
> I have an 3770k oc'd to 4.3 the temp is 32 at idle
> My cooler is a Dark Rock Pro with is obviously power by the mobo, all the chassis fans are connected to my fan controller in my Haf-x.
> The cooler is supposed to be approx 20db, but is actually 52?


what?? 52 

Why not grab some AP-15 GTs?


----------



## duffy502

52db
The one you suggested is louder than the dark rock fan, I need to slow it down really, not replace it.


----------



## Jcyle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duffy502*
> 
> 52db
> The one you suggested is louder than the dark rock fan, I need to slow it down really, not replace it.


Plg it into the motherboard, download thermalradar software from Asus, set your fan curves.


----------



## duffy502

It is plugged into the mobo, and the profile I already have on thermal radar is silent.
I can't figure out using a user profile how to slow more than the silent setting does. Silent really is not silent.


----------



## Mp0wer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duffy502*
> 
> It is plugged into the mobo, and the profile I already have on thermal radar is silent.
> I can't figure out using a user profile how to slow more than the silent setting does. Silent really is not silent.


Have you checked the allow fan stop in thermal radar

Edit: You need to use a chassis fan plug to use that option


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duffy502*
> 
> Any advice for slowing my cooler down, it's the only fan in the case I can hear.
> I have changed the setting in the bios to silent, but it is still spinning at about 570rpm.
> I have an 3770k oc'd to 4.3 the temp is 32 at idle
> My cooler is a Dark Rock Pro with is obviously power by the mobo, all the chassis fans are connected to my fan controller in my Haf-x.
> The cooler is supposed to be approx 20db, but is actually 52?


Where you getting 52dba from. There is no way you should be hearing the fan at 570rpm. Either your reading something completely wrong, or the fan is not making the noise.


----------



## 9Thermal9

Well, I drove to Microcenter in Ilinoise with the intention to purchase I7 3770K and Asus Sabertooth Z77, only. I got there and figured what the heck, build the system. (I plan to upgrade the video card, memory and monitor latter)

ASUS Sabertooth Z77 1155 ATX .... $239.99
I7 3770 $289.99
Corsair H80 Cooling .......................$98.99
Intell SSD520 180 GB .....................$229.99
Corsair 850 TX2 PSU..................... $134.99
Antec Lanboy Air Blue Case ...........$149.99
BlueRay Burner............................... $79.99
Total: $1,340.20 w tax.

Sorry, Newegg. I built all my other computers from Newegg. I was a Newegg fanboy, but Microcenter matched or bet all prices. I didn't get a combo deal, however walked out of Microcenter satified. Good deal? Good Build?

I am sorta concerned about only 850 PSU and Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996744 (This is from my Gigabyte build)

I can't get the new build to boot. I tried booting from bare set up, too. This system is more difficult to put together than my Gigabyte build.


----------



## JollyMan

Anyone find a solution to the fans running past shut down issue? I have yet to find a fix? new Bios out yet?


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Anyone find a solution to the fans running past shut down issue? I have yet to find a fix? new Bios out yet?


how about read this thread before posting?


----------



## Mati1983

Can somebody tell me how to overclock 2500K with SABERTOOTH Z77?

When I set CPU ratio to 45 and Voltage az 1.3 I'm having a blue screen and it's not working
Also it happended when i put 1.25 V and ratio 44








On my previous board P8P67 Deluxe it was working well with above settings.

I would like to set my 2500K to 4.5-4.6 Ghz but i don't know what to change on motherboard to get it work properly.

I don't know a lot about overclocking and a little help would be a appreciated


----------



## grambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Where you getting 52dba from. There is no way you should be hearing the fan at 570rpm. Either your reading something completely wrong, or the fan is not making the noise.


This. Unless the fan is mounted horizontally and/or has some weird motor issue with running at ~600rpm/low voltage, it should be very close to silent at that speed.

Re: fans running after shutdown, it's a feature (to clear the hot air out of the PC after shutdown) that you can disable, read the thread.


----------



## duffy502

I will try checking that box, does it actually stop the fan? That's scary!
I can turn all the chassis fans off with my fan controller, so I know the noise is coming from the cooler as its the only other fan running, oh just thought, my psu fan may be guilty?
It's a Coolermaster GX750. Never thought about that, can I change the fan inside that?
And I have a iPhone sound meter app for checking the volume, I know it's not 100% accurate but I also know I shouldn't be able to hear 20db without trying to.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I do own an ax850 and a sabertooth z77 also.
> The pics I showed you are not random google pics, they are mine, I took them this morning.
> How about taking a picture of your cable and let's compare it to mine.
> (there are two of those cables in the ax850 bundle if the one inside your case is troubling to photograph)
> Isn't one 4pin with only "round" pins in your cable?


Sorry I didn't mean to sound accusatory I know the pics were yours, but was thinking maybe the cable came from somewhere else. At home I grind on my games all day with the little time I have, so I am only in the forums when I work (graveyards), so I can't post pics right now.

My 4 pins would work if I reversed them if that makes sense. Like if the locking clip is turned around to the other side it would work, but any other combination in which they would lock how they should will not. The 4 pin I have with the rounds has the 12 pin (4 empty) on the other side (which doesn't plug into the psu because there is no room).

Right now I have just the 4 pin plugged in with no problems running my machine, but I am still trying to find out if anyone has had problems with stability from their overclocks running just a 4 pin (anyone with a 850w psu, no matter the make, running a 4 pin can help input on this for me).


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mati1983*
> 
> Can somebody tell me how to overclock 2500K with SABERTOOTH Z77?
> When I set CPU ratio to 45 and Voltage az 1.3 I'm having a blue screen and it's not working
> Also it happended when i put 1.25 V and ratio 44
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my previous board P8P67 Deluxe it was working well with above settings.
> I would like to set my 2500K to 4.5-4.6 Ghz but i don't know what to change on motherboard to get it work properly.
> I don't know a lot about overclocking and a little help would be a appreciated


what do you mean by "ratio"? If you mean your multiplier, then what is your fsb? Every chip is going to be a bit different. You can't expect to nail it the first time, or even the second time (as it seems like your taking some pretty big leaps in your settings). Just mess with it till you get it right, and do some more forum surfing to make sure whatever your doing is correct. There are HUNDREDS of threads out there that explain everything.

I am not famililar with the 2500k, but from my understanding your vcore should be lower with that chip for the 4.5-4.6 range if your doing everything right. That seems to be about the norm for the 3570k though.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *9Thermal9*
> 
> I am sorta concerned about only 850 PSU and Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996744 (This is from my Gigabyte build)
> I can't get the new build to boot. I tried booting from bare set up, too. This system is more difficult to put together than my Gigabyte build.


850w is MORE than plenty. I would try to check all your wiring. Doesn't seem like it should be difficult to get that set up and running. What does it do exactly when you try to boot?


----------



## JollyMan

@Zantrill

p.49 Post #487

I posed this question the fist time because it seemed as though other people were having problems and I was hoping to get a solution. I know that it wa mentioned earlier in the thread, and someone said it was an nvidia beta driver causing the issue, but I am not using a beta driver and someone else has the same issue and they are running an ATI card. No one offered a real solution, from what I saw. So I decided to come back in and see if anyone found anything.

Did you see a solution as you were reading this this thread, Zantrill? If so, please point it out to me, page and post # please. It would be greatly appreciated.

@ Grambo

I am fully aware of that option and have it disabled, which is why it IS a problem when all of my fans continue to run after system shutdown. Wouldnt have bothered coming on here to ask a question if it were that simple of a fix.

So, was any one able to find a fix for this?


----------



## JollyMan

Well then, I just read throught eh last 5 pages of the thread and found the supposed answer. Sorry for the attitude Zantrill. Apparently resetting teh CMOS is the trick. We will see. ITs worked for 2 people now. Hopefully it works for me..


----------



## 9Thermal9

Anyone have good links to Sabertooth Z77 videos? Installation quides etc. YouTube only has unboxing videos....lots. I have just enough intelligence to open the box, after that a little assistance needed.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *9Thermal9*
> 
> Anyone have good links to Sabertooth Z77 videos? Installation quides etc. YouTube only has unboxing videos....lots. I have just enough intelligence to open the box, after that a little assistance needed.


Assistance with what exactly? It's all pretty self explanatory and in chronological order of operation (for the most part) in the manual that comes with the mobo.


----------



## 9Thermal9

I know, and it is not like I haven't built systems before. I just get power up and shut down. The fans don't spin up and no beeps. Nothing. I tried panel wire re-configuation and tried booting without the optical drive and stuff.


----------



## JollyMan

Still having the shutdown issue. Fans run after shutdown. Going to try the newer bios, if i could just find my damn jump drive.


----------



## 9Thermal9

Pulled everything apart, tested and posted like a dream. Guess I didn't have the plugs in tight.


----------



## alex1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I do own an ax850 and a sabertooth z77 also.
> The pics I showed you are not random google pics, they are mine, I took them this morning.
> How about taking a picture of your cable and let's compare it to mine.
> (there are two of those cables in the ax850 bundle if the one inside your case is troubling to photograph)
> Isn't one 4pin with only "round" pins in your cable?


Any light on this?? Im about to buy and im worried that it wont fit!


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex1337*
> 
> Any light on this?? Im about to buy and im worried that it wont fit!


From what I can see it looks like he isn't using the CPU power cable to the board. Check out the connectors in red that should be sqaured thats on the mother board and take a look at his CPU power cable I have highlighted.



Something is not right and it's not the CPU power connector on the mother board but the one side of his connector. He must be using the wrong power cable.

I had the perfect fit for mine using a Corsair AX850 PSU.


----------



## Z Overlord

What ram should I get for this board and an i5 3570k? I will be OCing and use a noctua nh-d14 cpu cooler, so the that's a tight fit for some ram kits.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> From what I can see it looks like he isn't using the CPU power cable to the board. Check out the connectors in red that should be sqaured thats on the mother board and take a look at his CPU power cable I have highlighted.
> 
> Something is not right and it's not the CPU power connector on the mother board but the one side of his connector. He must be using the wrong power cable.
> I had the perfect fit for mine using a Corsair AX850 PSU.


it's all the same. He just posted the picture to show me that his cable fits into the atx on the board. MY issue is that none of my cables fit, you can put a "round" into a "square" but not a "square" into a "round"... Neither of my cables had the correct configuration, however, then pins are all the same... its just the connector head that is wrong. I had to use a 4 pin and my rig works fine... however, i would like to be able to use 8. And if you had no problems with your ax850 cables and they plugged right in, then apparently corsair doesn't stay uniform with their cables.


----------



## Arizonian

I'm glad to hear you figured that out. I didnt notice when plugging mine in, it went smoothly.

I'm sure so will Alex1337 who had some reserve in buying the mobo it seemed from reading about the issue.

Thanks for that update.


----------



## alex1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I'm glad to hear you figured that out. I didnt notice when plugging mine in, it went smoothly.
> I'm sure so will Alex1337 who had some reserve in buying the mobo it seemed from reading about the issue.
> Thanks for that update.


Just purchased, thanks! +rep









Heres what ive got:

650D
EVGA GTX 670
H100 W/ AP-15'S
WHITE VENGEANCE LP
CORSAIR AX 750W
2X 500GB BLUES IN RAID0
SABER TOOTH Z77

getting bitfenix white extensions, and will single sleeve the front panel connectors and front audio in white aswel.

Things is, im unsure on something... I dont know if I should get the 670 FTW edition or the normal card....

can anyone with an artistic eye tell me if the normal card would look like **** with the white cables/general white theme in the case? Also, if it matters im getting the EVGA backplate and if anyone also knows will it fit on the FTW edition?

Thanks.


----------



## supercross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supercross*
> 
> Hi, currently have my Z77 working great, apart from the fact that the rear eSata ports do not work.
> Both devices I am trying to use work perfectly on my laptop, but do not power up or show up in device manager.
> The ports are enabled in the bios, but are there some extra drivers I need to install or something?


Anyone got any ideas for this? Really need to get my rear Esata ports working!

Thanks!


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> What ram should I get for this board and an i5 3570k? I will be OCing and use a noctua nh-d14 cpu cooler, so the that's a tight fit for some ram kits.


The Samsung 30nm modules are great they are out of stock at Newegg but, your local Micro Center might have some.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096

These kits are great too.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231538

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226303

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148554


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex1337*
> 
> Just purchased, thanks! +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres what ive got:
> 650D
> EVGA GTX 670
> H100 W/ AP-15'S
> WHITE VENGEANCE LP
> CORSAIR AX 750W
> 2X 500GB BLUES IN RAID0
> SABER TOOTH Z77
> getting bitfenix white extensions, and will single sleeve the front panel connectors and front audio in white aswel.
> Things is, im unsure on something... I dont know if I should get the 670 FTW edition or the normal card....
> can anyone with an artistic eye tell me if the normal card would look like **** with the white cables/general white theme in the case? Also, if it matters im getting the EVGA backplate and if anyone also knows will it fit on the FTW edition?
> Thanks.


I went white too. See Ivy Cruncher in sys specs for close up shot. You'll find a good source of colored cables in below link. (I didn't do the CPU cable because I had the connection come up the back side and much of the wire was hiden to see anyway).

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g2/c537/list/p1/Cables-Bitfenix_Alchemy_Multisleeved.html

The EVGA GTX 670 or 680 FTW Backplates are not the same as the reference ones and will not fit. At the moment they are not out but will be soon. Estimated time is the end of the month to mid June latest from the word in the EVGA forums.

At the moment the only version that sells with one when released is the GTX 670 FTW 4GB card with Back plate.

http://www.evga.com/products/prodlist.asp?family=GeForce+600+Series+Family

Good luck. It's a nice looking build you got there.


----------



## Sxcerino

Is it possible to adjust fan speed for temperatures above 75C in Thermalarmor? I don't want it to default to 100% =/


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Is it possible to adjust fan speed for temperatures above 75C in Thermalarmor? I don't want it to default to 100% =/


In the ASUS Suite II software you can download from our mother board page at ASUS.com.

There is a section in the suite where you can view the fans and an adjust settings area. Allows for a user set profile you can apply to your personal needs or preset variations.

Asus Suite II / Thermal Radar - click the tower icon - click the chasis fan - click settings pop up.


----------



## Lotus52

Hey All,

New here, was wondering if anyone else is having this problem, I put my computer into sleep mode and it wakes itself up on its own. And each time it wakes up is random sometimes it's after.10 seconds and sometimes it's 10 minutes later.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lotus52*
> 
> Hey All,
> New here, was wondering if anyone else is have this problem, I put my computer into sleep mode and it wakes itself up on its own.


Is your mouse set as wake up? Maybe the optical/lazer is not on a proper pad? I used to have a problem with that as I had it on a wooden desk that had texture. Once I put on solid color, I had no more problems.


----------



## Lotus52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> Is your mouse set as wake up? Maybe the optical/lazer is not on a proper pad? I used to have a problem with that as I had it on a wooden desk that had texture. Once I put on solid color, I had no more problems.


Yea I got my mouse on a mouse pad how would I go about checking if it's set as wake up


----------



## pjneder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> What ram should I get for this board and an i5 3570k? I will be OCing and use a noctua nh-d14 cpu cooler, so the that's a tight fit for some ram kits.


G.Skill RipjawsX 1600 is a good option and will fit just fine. 2 or 4 banks, it will all fit.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lotus52*
> 
> Yea I got my mouse on a mouse pad how would I go about checking if it's set as wake up


you will need to go into the UEFI/bios. You should see options for wake up, like keyboard, mouse, etc.


----------



## Lotus52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> you will need to go into the UEFI/bios. You should see options for wake up, like keyboard, mouse, etc.


I can't find that option any where


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lotus52*
> 
> I can't find that option any where


My build will be up and running in 2 days. If you haven't figured it out by then, I'll go into the bios and find for you with screen shots. Or, maybe someone else here will point you the right direction.


----------



## Lotus52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> My build will be up and running in 2 days. If you haven't figured it out by then, I'll go into the bios and find for you with screen shots. Or, maybe someone else here will point you the right direction.


Thank you so much, I think I fix it problem started happening when I added a printer I change the setting of the printer to not share and it seems to of fixed it.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> In the ASUS Suite II software you can download from our mother board page at ASUS.com.
> There is a section in the suite where you can view the fans and an adjust settings area. Allows for a user set profile you can apply to your personal needs or preset variations.
> Asus Suite II / Thermal Radar - click the tower icon - click the chasis fan - click settings pop up.


Opps, in my original post I meant thermal radar and not thermal armor as I have already installed the software and tried to set up a profile.

It's just that I'm unable to adjust the fan curve nodes past 75C, beyond 75C it's just a straight line @ 100% with no node









Any ideas?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Opps, in my original post I meant thermal radar and not thermal armor as I have already installed the software and tried to set up a profile.
> It's just that I'm unable to adjust the fan curve nodes past 75C, beyond 75C it's just a straight line @ 100% with no node
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


I came across that same issue. I even tried ASUS Fan Xpert 2 on the Sabertooth even though it's not issued for it and it didn't work properly. Might be a limitation on the 'user profile'.

I have a case fan control 'low, medium, high' option on the NZXT Phantom 410. I turn it up to high when I play games and then turn it back down to low for normal use, plus have Thermal Radar fan settings to 'user' and lower the percent even further.

Perhaps they will have that option down the road we can hope.


----------



## Awful

So I don't know who has seen my other thread, but I'm now looking for a cooler that is actually compatible with my Sabertooth. I see alot of folks using the h80 and h100. Would anyone have a back of the mobo picture? I want to see the mounting bracket not interfering with the transistors. Can anyone suggest a good Air cooler that is compatible? Here's the thread I mentioned, displaying the problem.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1260267/thermaltake-frio-not-compatible-with-sabertooth-z77#post_17304558


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I came across that same issue. I even tried ASUS Fan Xpert 2 on the Sabertooth even though it's not issued for it and it didn't work properly. Might be a limitation on the 'user profile'.
> I have a case fan control 'low, medium, high' option on the NZXT Phantom 410. I turn it up to high when I play games and then turn it back down to low for normal use, plus have Thermal Radar fan settings to 'user' and lower the percent even further.
> Perhaps they will have that option down the road we can hope.


I guess we could only hope

I doubt asus will actually release something like that however (afraid of people breaking hardware due to low fan speeds)


----------



## Treu62

New to the Forum so I'm not quite sure if I'm in the right place (but seeing as this refers specifically to my Sabertooth Z77 I thought I would ask) if some one could give me some advice or point me in the right direction that would be great!

Issue: The is my second PC build last one being about 5 years ago so I am a bit rusty, The boot device LED is on, on my Sabertooth Z77 mobo but it seems to be booting up properly with no issues check all the settings in the BIOS I could think of... I have yet install my OS, should I just go ahead and install my OS? also I get one beep out my system speaker and I read the description in the manual which doesn't quite make sense because my keyboard works just fine.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> What ram should I get for this board and an i5 3570k? I will be OCing and use a noctua nh-d14 cpu cooler, so the that's a tight fit for some ram kits.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220562
i use those, works great. 7.9 on the windows rating thing..if that means anything. Have it (memory) OC to 1922 and my cpu at 4.4 with 1.23v 103 fsb


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Treu62*
> 
> New to the Forum so I'm not quite sure if I'm in the right place (but seeing as this refers specifically to my Sabertooth Z77 I thought I would ask) if some one could give me some advice or point me in the right direction that would be great!
> Issue: The is my second PC build last one being about 5 years ago so I am a bit rusty, The boot device LED is on, on my Sabertooth Z77 mobo but it seems to be booting up properly with no issues check all the settings in the BIOS I could think of... I have yet install my OS, should I just go ahead and install my OS? also I get one beep out my system speaker and I read the description in the manual which doesn't quite make sense because my keyboard works just fine.
> Thanks for the help!


if it's a green LED it's ok. Also, one beep means all is good. Go ahead and install your OS


----------



## thegane20100

guys ihave this mobo for 2days but ihave a proble with the ram
its like this :‎ F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL :4x4GB G.Skill RipJaw Edition Dual Channel CL9-9-9-24

if i instal two dims ia bank a1 and a2 it works like a charam if instal them in banks b1 and b2 it hangs on the red led
tried updating bios and clear cmos and memok ok boton is there any thing can i do


----------



## Noirdeathe

Hi guys! I've a problem and perhaps someone can help me.

My 1st PCI-E slot (the beige one) does not seem to recognise my GTX 460. Everything turns on, whirrs up and generally makes the correct noises but the monitor doesn't turn on, the card works fine in the second PCI-E slot.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I've heard rumors I might need to RMA it .. which I really don't want to do.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noirdeathe*
> 
> Hi guys! I've a problem and perhaps someone can help me.
> My 1st PCI-E slot (the beige one) does not seem to recognise my GTX 460. Everything turns on, whirrs up and generally makes the correct noises but the monitor doesn't turn on, the card works fine in the second PCI-E slot.
> Has anyone had a similar problem? I've heard rumors I might need to RMA it .. which I really don't want to do.


My card works fine in that slot, I trust you have checked the bios and made sure it's set up right ?


----------



## Mati1983

I would like to Overclock a Core i5-2500K to 4.5GHz .
Are this settings correct?

-Set the CPU multiplier to 45x
-Enable Load-Line Calibration
-Set the CPU voltage to 1.3-1.35V
-Set the CPU PLL to 1.9V
-Set the VCCSA to 1.1V
-Set the VCCIO to 1.106V


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mati1983*
> 
> I would like to Overclock a Core i5-2500K to 4.5GHz .
> Are this settings correct?
> -Set the CPU multiplier to 45x
> -Enable Load-Line Calibration
> -Set the CPU voltage to 1.3-1.35V
> -Set the CPU PLL to 1.9V
> -Set the VCCSA to 1.1V
> -Set the VCCIO to 1.106V


why? UEFI will auto OC it to 4.5 even 4.8 stable.


----------



## Mati1983

You mean OC Tuner? Auto OC is 4.3 Ghz


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mati1983*
> 
> You mean OC Tuner? Auto OC is 4.3 Ghz


There should be software on the mobo cd you installed in windows. You run that program and it should keep testing machine for stable Max OC. Newegg got the 2500 to 4.8 on a Asus Z68 3rd Gen mobo. The sabertooth should have the same soft.

I say "should" becuase I won't have mine up and running till tommorow when my memory comes in but it is all tied to the same UEFI type bios.


----------



## Mati1983

Ok I have a look to find this software







Thanks


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mati1983*
> 
> Ok I have a look to find this software
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


OK, I found the Newegg Vid on this. Hope this helps. I know he has a i7 2600K Sandybridge, but the 2500K shouldn't be that much difference if any.


----------



## d1ckw00d

Hey guys, has anyone tried to put a Zalamn Cnps9900max on this board yet? I thinking about removing the thermal armor because the fans so huge I cant get at the bolts.....suggestions?


----------



## Blatsz32

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2380038
CPU-Z


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2380038
> CPU-Z


I will have my machine up and running tommorow. Same specs. Saber/3570K/16 Gigs lat 9 1.5V What all did you change to get this 4.5 and is it stable?


----------



## Blatsz32

yes very stable. I played BF3 for 4 hours only issue was my card over heating...which being an Asus CUII triple slotter its going to be an ongoing issue. First I let the BIOS do its Auto clock thing to see what my stable memory and bus frequency would be..then I just tweaked the power settings. changed my CPU core to 44 and also changed my voltage to 1.25. I read somewhere on AnandTech that IB doesn't like huge voltage increases..tends to sky rocket temps and cause instability, therefore I lowered it a bit to 1.22, nothing major.
I disabled the EPU voltage, speed step, c1e..My cpu still down clocks itself when I'm not doing anything which is fine. When it's working full load it hits 4.5. I tried OCCT for 8hours, IntelBurn Test 10 runs, and the faithful BF3 stability test. All went well. My temps idle are 24,32,32,18c ( core 1234) and load 49-65. To be honest I'm not entirely sure what the safe temp limit it.

Here is the article I was talking about ..http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> yes very stable. I played BF3 for 4 hours only issue was my card over heating...which being an Asus CUII triple slotter its going to be an ongoing issue. First I let the BIOS do its Auto clock thing to see what my stable memory and bus frequency would be..then I just tweaked the power settings. changed my CPU core to 44 and also changed my voltage to 1.25. I read somewhere on AnandTech that IB doesn't like huge voltage increases..tends to sky rocket temps and cause instability, therefore I lowered it a bit to 1.22, nothing major.
> I disabled the EPU voltage, speed step, c1e..My cpu still down clocks itself when I'm not doing anything which is fine. When it's working full load it hits 4.5. I tried OCCT for 8hours, IntelBurn Test 10 runs, and the faithful BF3 stability test. All went well. My temps idle are 24,32,32,18c ( core 1234) and load 49-65. To be honest I'm not entirely sure what the safe temp limit it.
> Here is the article I was talking about ..http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge


I'll have to check this out tomorrow. Thanks. Now another question. I know eyes will







but I really don't know. When you changed the volt to 1.25 is that the same volt as memory? As in my memory will be 1.5 stock, is that the volts you are changing? Or is that just different all together?


----------



## Mati1983

I don' have auto tuning on AI Suite II on SABERTOOTH Z77.
Fan Xpert 2 and Auto Tune are not for the Sabertooth Z77 series motherboards









Are this settings correct to Overclock a Core i5-2500K to 4.5GHz?

AI Overclock Tuner- Manual
BCLK- 100
Turbo Ratio-By Per Core
1-45
2-45
3-45
4-45
Internal PLL Overvoltages- Enabled
Memory Frequency-1866 Mhz

CPU Power Management:
CPU Voltage- *Between 1.3-1.35*
DRAM Voltage- Auto
VCCSA Voltage- *Auto?*
CPU PLL Voltage- *Auto?*
PCH Voltage- *Auto?*

CPU Ratio- Auto
Enhanced Intel Speedstep technology- Enabled
Turbo Mode- Enabled

Digi+Power Control:
CPU Load Line Calibration- High
CPU Voltage Frequency- Manual
CPU Fixed Frequency- 350
CPU Power Phase Control- Extreme
CPu Power Duty Control- Extreme
CPU Current Capability- 130%
CPU Power Response Control- Auto
DRAM Current Capability- 100%
DRAM Voltage Frequency- Auto
DRAM Power Phase Control- Auto
DRAM Power Thermal Control- 130


----------



## thegane20100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> guys ihave this mobo for 2days but ihave a proble with the ram
> its like this :‎ F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL :4x4GB G.Skill RipJaw Edition Dual Channel CL9-9-9-24
> if i instal two dims ia bank a1 and a2 it works like a charam if instal them in banks b1 and b2 it hangs on the red led
> tried updating bios and clear cmos and memok ok boton is there any thing can i do


some one help plz


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> some one help plz


Have you read the manual? Page 2-5. It says recommended memory configurations. For one stick use A2. For two sticks use A2 and B2. NOT a1 a2 or b1 b2.


----------



## thegane20100

ihave 4 sticks when i instal the for the system hangs on red ram led


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> ihave 4 sticks when i instal the for the system hangs on red ram led


K, try one stick at a time..try and narrow it down to finding out if the RAM is bad..if everything is good then start pairing them up, try every possible pairing you can in the correct slots, the same color slots. I'm inclined to think its your RAM thats bad and all you need is to get new RAM. worst case scenario...you have bad RAM slots and you need to return your board and get a new one.

The most important thing at this point is narrowing it down..you need to find out whats bad. Gl bud. Be patient, it's not a rush job.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> ihave 4 sticks when i instal the for the system hangs on red ram led


Had the same issue with mine when I first put it together. I found I could only use one stick, but after I updated to the latest bios all was fine with all four. If you have to, just use one stick to get everything up and running, then flash to new bios..


----------



## id_mew

I'm trying to connect my display using an HDMI cable strait to the Sabertooth z77 but I keep getting no signal.
I looked to see if I'm missing any drivers but I don't think so.
Am I missing something?
thanks


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Had the same issue with mine when I first put it together. I found I could only use one stick, but after I updated to the latest bios all was fine with all four. If you have to, just use one stick to get everything up and running, then flash to new bios..


Good call Navit, the new BIOS is a stability and memory compatibility update.
http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/

"I'm trying to connect my display using an HDMI cable strait to the Sabertooth z77 but I keep getting no signal.
I looked to see if I'm missing any drivers but I don't think so.
Am I missing something?
thanks"

Try enabling, in the BIOS, the on-board HDMI as your primary or are you trying to use it as your secondary?


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Good call Navit, the new BIOS is a stability and memory compatibility update.
> http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/
> "I'm trying to connect my display using an HDMI cable strait to the Sabertooth z77 but I keep getting no signal.
> I looked to see if I'm missing any drivers but I don't think so.
> Am I missing something?
> thanks"
> Try enabling, in the BIOS, the on-board HDMI as your primary or are you trying to use it as your secondary?


I'm trying to connected as primary cause I'm selling my graphic card.
I couldn't find that setting the on- board HDMI where is it under?
I enabled igpu under graphics but now my graphic card don't display anything.
I guess I'm stuck in resetting the jumper.

Update: so I reset my jumper now my display is up and running but using the graphic card not the on board HDMI on the sabertooth.
Do I have to physically remove my GPU in order for the motherboard to use the HDMI output?
I really want to figure this out, otherwise if I sell my GPU I'll be left with the computer that doesn't work.
thanks


----------



## Nepcros

Hello new to this thread just finished my build and a similar one for my friend my board was shot so i had to return it and get a new one once i replaced my board it all worked fine. My friends board wouldn't boot up without both cpu cooling fans being wired up... i gave him his full build but just put a extra fan on the cpu cooler no problems just really odd... I was curios if anybody else had any problems like this, i updated the bios and it runs fine now but if you remove that second fan off the board it doesn't start at all... even if its disabled in the bios... me and my friend are both loving the Z77 Sabertooth with our I5 3570k chips fastest thing i've ever seen... i still need to finish some machining on my cpu cooling block before i'm done and start pushing the overclock but i'm trying to learn more about the UEFI anybody got any good links I would appreciate it... it all seems so simple it freaks me out...


----------



## ToadGunner

Has anyone run across the onboard graphics cropping your screen? I am bulding from all new parts. Video card has not yet arrived so I used the onboard HDMI port. Screen was cropped on boot screen, windows loading screen, windows, everything. I updated bios to latest version and this fixed the cropping while booting. Reinstalled windows, no cropping until I loaded the video driver. Seems like a driver issue to me. Has anyone else tried using the onboard graphics rather than a dedicated board and did you have this issue? Running an i7-3770. I would rather not have to do an RMA for a replacement if the issue is not hardware. ASUS Customer support was not helpful at all.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I'm trying to connected as primary cause I'm selling my graphic card.
> I couldn't find that setting the on- board HDMI where is it under?
> I enabled igpu under graphics but now my graphic card don't display anything.
> I guess I'm stuck in resetting the jumper.
> Update: so I reset my jumper now my display is up and running but using the graphic card not the on board HDMI on the sabertooth.
> Do I have to physically remove my GPU in order for the motherboard to use the HDMI output?
> I really want to figure this out, otherwise if I sell my GPU I'll be left with the computer that doesn't work.
> thanks


Have you downloaded the intel drivers for the igup ?
I also run the setting in the bios on auto and run igpu to the tv out if the boards hdmi And the gpu to the monitor. Could never get to work till I Went to the intel site and dl the latest driver for the hd 400


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToadGunner*
> 
> Has anyone run across the onboard graphics cropping your screen? I am bulding from all new parts. Video card has not yet arrived so I used the onboard HDMI port. Screen was cropped on boot screen, windows loading screen, windows, everything. I updated bios to latest version and this fixed the cropping while booting. Reinstalled windows, no cropping until I loaded the video driver. Seems like a driver issue to me. Has anyone else tried using the onboard graphics rather than a dedicated board and did you have this issue? Running an i7-3770. I would rather not have to do an RMA for a replacement if the issue is not hardware. ASUS Customer support was not helpful at all.


Adjust your overscan and that should fix it.


----------



## jseals121403

Hi all,
I have spent all morning reading this thread and finally decided to join.

Waiting on UPS to get my order from newegg here (and thermaltake).

Have a Thermaltake Armor+LCS (With the clip for the 1155 socket on its way from Thermaltake).

Ordered myself a Sabertooth, Core I7-3770, and Corsair Vengeance 1600 (4X4gb) Ram. Here is to hoping I dont have any issues but this forum has been amazing with all the watch outs so far! (crosses fingers for no DOA parts).


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Have you downloaded the intel drivers for the igup ?
> I also run the setting in the bios on auto and run igpu to the tv out if the boards hdmi And the gpu to the monitor. Could never get to work till I Went to the intel site and dl the latest driver for the hd 400


Hey Navit, thanks for trying to help me. I tried downloading the VGA drivers from the Asus saber tooth website but when I try to install it,
It gives me an error message saying" This computer does not meet the minimum requirements of installing the software."
Do you think I have to uninstall my GPU drivers and remove the card in order for it to work?

Once again thank you.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> Hey Navit, thanks for trying to help me. I tried downloading the VGA drivers from the Asus saber tooth website but when I try to install it,
> It gives me an error message saying" This computer does not meet the minimum requirements of installing the software."
> Do you think I have to uninstall my GPU drivers and remove the card in order for it to work?
> Once again thank you.


Don't go to asus, go to intel site and get it off there and glad to help


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Don't go to asus, go to intel site and get it off there and glad to help


I finally solve it.
I uninstalled my Nvidia drivers, removed my GPU from my case and than it worked.
Thanks bud.


----------



## atinoco

Hello all, I have a Triple Head Nvidia Surround Gaming RIG with 3 Dell Ultrasharp Monitors powered by 2 Nvidia GTX 570 Video cards in SLI. I purchased my 2 Video cards and my 3 monitors like 6 months ago, and I've been wanting to update the case, mobo and cpu on my system for a bit, so I just ordered a new Haf-X Case, IB i7 3770k CPU and an Asus Sabertooth Z77. I might update my SSD also...

I need some advice on memory guys, i got DDR3 2000 Ram on my current setup, but I never got it to run even close to that speed, so i kinda wasted cash there....I don't want that to happen again this time....so I just read all 64 pages of this thread to see what people use....I see a lot of people use DDR3 1866 Ram, I see Corsair Vengeance in a lot of signatures, some others use faster memory up to DDR3 2400.

I'd like to get 16 GB of ram that it's super easy to setup, I plan to do a mild overclock on the CPU but I don't have much free time lately so I like to keep all things simple this time, I'd like to buy ram that runs at specs without any special tweaks.....so i can just focus on the cpu overclock and enjoy my system....

so i'm looking at the QVL for tested ram, i see a G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB 1866 Kit (Model F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL) kit that it's in the QVL and it's super cheap, that's one option.....The very popular Corsair Vengeance 1866 Kit in the QVL it's a 2x4GB kit CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R so I'd have to buy 2 of those for 16 GB, I'd prefer buy a 16 GB (4 x 4GB) Vengeance kit but that one is NOT in the QVL, are the modules on the 16 GB kit the same ones on the 8 GB Vengeance kit that is on the QVL? if that 16 Gb kit it's 100% compatible I might get it over the G.Skill kit....

there's also faster ram at cheap prices, but I'm afraid I'd need to do a lot of tweaks to get them working..., what do you guys think? what would be your choice for Memory for this Mobo if you plan to overclock you CPU?

thanks in advance

-Andres


----------



## ToadGunner

Edit: Ignore this post (any way to delete?) Will repost with history


----------



## ToadGunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Adjust your overscan and that should fix it.


Thanks for the lead. I researched overscan and it seams to be a monitor/tv problem and I have no adjustments for this. I called ASUS Tech support again and this time told them that I have updated BIOS and it fixed the problem for theBIOS Screen but did not fix the problem in windows. The guy told me he sees this about 5 times a month and I need to replace it MB if the BIOS update didnt fix all problems. First new egg RMA for me.


----------



## navit

Really? Did you go to your desktop and right clik to bring up the properties? You are running your Igpu right? If so do what I said and look for graphic options, overscan is in there.


----------



## majnu

When I connect my corsair h60's 3 pin fan connector to my lamptron fc5 instead of the motherboards's cpu fan header I keep getting "CPU fan error" in bios and it won't load into windows, even though both fans connected to the rad are running. What am I doing wrong? When I connect one fan to the CPU fan header on the motherboard I can get into windows, but I want to control all my fans using the Lamptron.

Also these Assistant fans are doing my nuts in. Even when I select disable they refuse to turn off and spin at 3000rpm. Either I am doing something wrong or there is a bug in the AI suite.

Can someone please help with the above problems?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> When I connect my corsair h60's 3 pin fan connector to my lamptron fc5 instead of the motherboards's cpu fan header I keep getting "CPU fan error" in bios and it won't load into windows, even though both fans connected to the rad are running. What am I doing wrong? When I connect one fan to the CPU fan header on the motherboard I can get into windows, but I want to control all my fans using the Lamptron.
> Also these Assistant fans are doing my nuts in. Even when I select disable they refuse to turn off and spin at 3000rpm. Either I am doing something wrong or there is a bug in the AI suite.
> Can someone please help with the above problems?


Well if something is not plugged into the cpu header then you will always get that error, I always just plug a random fan from my case into and never have a problem. have you gone into the bios and tried to disable the cpu fan?


----------



## trawentino

Hello everyone.

There is a cross of two Asus 7970 DC2T, in cross in the first graphics card gpu-z shows the system bus interface PCI-Ex8, and the second PCI-Ex4, in single PCI-Ex16. The idea and the first and the second should work in a cross race in the mode of PCI-Ex8. Maybe there is some setting in the BIOS of the motherboard ASUS Sabertooth X77.
Cards are inserted in second (PCI-E X16) and fourth (PCI-E X8) connectors. Yet there is a caveat cross does not work, freezes (blue screen) on the driver AMD_Catalyst_12.4

CPU: Intel Core i7 2700K @ 4.5 GHZ
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth X77
RAM: 8GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR3 1600MHz @ CL8-8-8-24
Video: 2х ASUS HD7970-DC2T-3GD5 1000Mhz
SSD: 1 x 64GB OCZ-VERTEX2
HDD: 1 x 500 ГБ WDC WD5000AADS
1 x 500 ГБ WDC WD5000AAKS
PSU: Chieftec APS-1000C 1000W
OS: Windows 7 x64 SP1
AMD_Catalyst_12.5_Beta[/quote]


----------



## toyopl

What cpu coolers are you guys using ? I'm looking for something that will work fairly quiet with small overclocks, not trying to beat any numbers here, just first time overclocking just to see what the fuss is all about.

Here's my rig,
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W

CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W ATX12V

ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX

CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CML16GX3M4A1600C9

EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Asus VG236H 23" Full HD 120Hz 3D multimedia Height & Swivel Adjustable WideScreen LCD Monitor w/nVidia 3D Vision Kit hard bundle

Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

Corsair Obsidian Series 550D Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)


----------



## Zantrill

Well, I've had my baby up and running since this afternoon. (late evening here now), and I have had no problems at all. Great board!



yes I know, the push pull fan wires are ugly, I'll solve that later.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nepcros*
> 
> Hello new to this thread just finished my build and a similar one for my friend my board was shot so i had to return it and get a new one once i replaced my board it all worked fine. My friends board wouldn't boot up without both cpu cooling fans being wired up... i gave him his full build but just put a extra fan on the cpu cooler no problems just really odd... I was curios if anybody else had any problems like this, i updated the bios and it runs fine now but if you remove that second fan off the board it doesn't start at all... even if its disabled in the bios... me and my friend are both loving the Z77 Sabertooth with our I5 3570k chips fastest thing i've ever seen... i still need to finish some machining on my cpu cooling block before i'm done and start pushing the overclock but i'm trying to learn more about the UEFI anybody got any good links I would appreciate it... it all seems so simple it freaks me out...


You can disable the cpu fan monitor in the BIOS. Go to Advanced Settings-Monitor-CPU FAN- IGNORE. once you do that you should be able to boot to the OS without gtting the F1 stop...seems alot of you are having the F1 CPU FAN stop issue...just follow what I wrote and you should all be set. Now, as for your assist fans..go to your ASUS AISuite-Thermal Armor- In the large Mobo mapping, at the bottom, there are tabs, chose the Fan- Click Assist fan-Settings- I have mine set to Turbo ( I don't mind the speed). Set your to silent or which evr setting you want. Little fans like that ie 80mm fans spin fast so 4000rpm isn't to wied. Heck, mines almost at 4600rpms..


----------



## Zantrill

ok, how do I make the CPU always on Turbo so I can do a CPUz screen?


----------



## ths61

Just built out my Sabertooth Z77 last night and have a couple of questions. Everything appears to work except for the Display Port.

1) Anyone able to use the Display Port ??? I am not getting any output on the Display Port, only the HDMI port. I have tried both the AUTO and iGPU settings in the BIOS.

2) With the Intel HD4000 iGPU, is it possible to use simultaneously both the HDMI and Display Port in a dual headed configuration without using a separate PCIe Graphics Card ?

3) Also, does anyone have any favorite aftermarket air coolers that will fit? I am trying to build a very quiet 24x7 machine.

Thanks,
Tim

i7-3770S
8GB Corsair Vengeance
256GB OCZ Vertex 4 SSD
Asus Sabertooth Z77
57-in-1 USB3 Card Reader
Plextor Blu-Ray Burner / LightScribe
Platinum fan-less power supply
Wyred-4-Sound Micro-DAC (16/44 to 24/192)

WEI 7.7, 7.7, 6.7, 6.7, 7.7

Idles @ 38 watts


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Hello all, I have a Triple Head Nvidia Surround Gaming RIG with 3 Dell Ultrasharp Monitors powered by 2 Nvidia GTX 570 Video cards in SLI. I purchased my 2 Video cards and my 3 monitors like 6 months ago, and I've been wanting to update the case, mobo and cpu on my system for a bit, so I just ordered a new Haf-X Case, IB i7 3770k CPU and an Asus Sabertooth Z77. I might update my SSD also...
> I need some advice on memory guys, i got DDR3 2000 Ram on my current setup, but I never got it to run even close to that speed, so i kinda wasted cash there....I don't want that to happen again this time....so I just read all 64 pages of this thread to see what people use....I see a lot of people use DDR3 1866 Ram, I see Corsair Vengeance in a lot of signatures, some others use faster memory up to DDR3 2400.
> I'd like to get 16 GB of ram that it's super easy to setup, I plan to do a mild overclock on the CPU but I don't have much free time lately so I like to keep all things simple this time, I'd like to buy ram that runs at specs without any special tweaks.....so i can just focus on the cpu overclock and enjoy my system....
> so i'm looking at the QVL for tested ram, i see a G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB 1866 Kit (Model F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL) kit that it's in the QVL and it's super cheap, that's one option.....The very popular Corsair Vengeance 1866 Kit in the QVL it's a 2x4GB kit CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R so I'd have to buy 2 of those for 16 GB, I'd prefer buy a 16 GB (4 x 4GB) Vengeance kit but that one is NOT in the QVL, are the modules on the 16 GB kit the same ones on the 8 GB Vengeance kit that is on the QVL? if that 16 Gb kit it's 100% compatible I might get it over the G.Skill kit....
> there's also faster ram at cheap prices, but I'm afraid I'd need to do a lot of tweaks to get them working..., what do you guys think? what would be your choice for Memory for this Mobo if you plan to overclock you CPU?
> thanks in advance
> -Andres


K, the last build I had I used Corsair Vengeance. I went from 1333-1600..I liked it, it was stable, and it was fas but it didn't overclock for dog poopt. I used the Ram on an FX8150 and a Gigabyte 990FXA-ud7. No I have this rig, thought about transferring my 1600 over to it but I decided to buy some Patriot Sector 2 Viper 1866 RAM..let me tell you what....Freaking awesome RAM. Overclocked like a dream..way over the XMP and its stable. My first time buying Patriot anything and I am actually a convert ..so I'm going to push you into researching
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/3824/quick_review_patriot_viper_xtreme_division_2_pc3_15000_8gb_kit/index.html

Zantril, I verified my CPU-Z while I was running my tests.


----------



## Blatsz32

OK gang, I posted it a while back but I'll bring it up again now. It's a guide to using the Z77 UEFI bios and how to overclock. Now keep in mind, the setting in the UEFI wil be different for the i5 and i7 and the "k" series chips. I checked the link out and it's safe. Its also a good reference and starting point

http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69

Also, looks like the member SimpleTech started an ASUS bios/z77 information post. here is the link to the thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1248928/asus-z77-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-5-18


----------



## atinoco

thanks for the reply *Blatsz32* will definitelly look that one up... I don't think i want to overclock the ram though, kinda looking for a 100% compatible option, because i don't want to spend a lot of time tweaking the ram to make it work....that's why i was looking at the QVL, i don't live in the US so i can't return it if it doesn't work well....

the fastest ram i saw one of the users in this post have were these G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 but they are NOT in the Asus QVL, but in g.skill site it says it's Z77 compatible and it has a QVL list at the bottom with our motherboard in it....they use 1.65V most people here use 1.5V ram, is there a reason for that?. any other ideas? what do you guys think? should i go for the FASTEST ram like these DDR 2400 Kit or just play it safe and get a 1866 Kit that's in the QVL? I read somewhere that these boards are kinda picky with the ram, i don't want to make a mistake....


----------



## Nepcros

thanks it still didn't work disabling the opt fan or the cpu fan it doesn't matter i just put 2 fans on the cooler master air cooler and it works fine but if ever even with both fan sesnsors disabled i disconnect one or the other or both it just refuses to boot up... no twitches or flickers... nothing at all. But with both fans hooked up it runs fine...


----------



## ToadGunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Really? Did you go to your desktop and right clik to bring up the properties? You are running your Igpu right? If so do what I said and look for graphic options, overscan is in there.


Yes, I tried changing the setting in your screenshot. Pretty sure it is not an aspect ratio / overscan issue. The igpu only shows the bottom right portion of the desktop, not a "zoomed in" portion. If I rotate my screen 90 degrees and adjust the setting for a 90 degree display then I can see the bottom left portion (thats how I get to my start menu at the moment).

Got my Dedicated Graphics Card today and installed. no cropping problem at all running this. Even though I do not plan on using the igpu, I am still going to return the MB and get a new one because really everything should work. Guess I get to wait another week or so before my build is complete...

I will post update and let you know if it fixes everything once I get my new MB in. Thanks for the advise.


----------



## Jockeyshift

Noob here. I've read this thread from beginning to end and made the plunge for this mobo. Runs like a champ. Wanted to say thanks for all the great info here.









My rig:
Case: Thermaltake Level 10 GT
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K @ 3.4 GHZ (haven't played with overclocking yet)
RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance
Video: EVGA 015-P3-1582-AR GeForce GTX 580 SuperClocked
SSD: 240 GB OCZ-VERTEX2
Cooling: Corsair H100
PSU: Ultra X4 750-Watt
OS: Windows 7 x64 Ultimate SP1
Fan controller: NZXT Sentry LX


----------



## jmrios82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jockeyshift*
> 
> Noob here. I've read this thread from beginning to end and made the plunge for this mobo. Runs like a champ. Wanted to say thanks for all the great info here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My rig:
> Case: Thermaltake Level 10 GT
> Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K @ 3.4 GHZ (haven't played with overclocking yet)
> RAM: 8GB Corsair Vengeance
> Video: EVGA 015-P3-1582-AR GeForce GTX 580 SuperClocked
> SSD: 240 GB OCZ-VERTEX2
> Cooling: Corsair H100
> PSU: Ultra X4 750-Watt
> OS: Windows 7 x64 Ultimate SP1
> Fan controller: NZXT Sentry LX


I think that you've put your memory in the wrong slots, take a look at the user manual of the motherboard, at the section 2-5, you should be using DIMM_A2 and DIMM_B2, you are using now DIMM_A1 and DIMM_A2


----------



## Jockeyshift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmrios82*
> 
> I think that you've put your memory in the wrong slots, take a look at the user manual of the motherboard, at the section 2-5, you should be using DIMM_A2 and DIMM_B2, you are using now DIMM_A1 and DIMM_A2


Thanks, I saw a post earlier about that. I'll check the book when I get home. I have the machine here at work, just switched it and it runs the same.







But, I want to do it right. lol


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jockeyshift*
> 
> Thanks, I saw a post earlier about that. I'll check the book when I get home. I have the machine here at work, just switched it and it runs the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, I want to do it right. lol


the mem should be in A2 B2 so it can run in its native dual channel..it'll run the way you have it but not theway its supposed to


----------



## Lord Xeb

Does anyone know how the VCCSA voltage is setup. I know it is a stepdown of VTT.


----------



## ths61

Sxcerino,

How did you get your Display Port to work? Any specific configurations?

Also, have you tried to use both the Display Port and HDMI port at the same time ?

Thanks,
Tim


----------



## Mati1983

I would like to Overclock a Core i5-2500K to 4.5GHz
Can someone tell me who have Sandy Bridge ( like 2500K, 2600K or 2700K) and overclocked to 4.5 Ghz oraz higher - what to put on in this particular Bios settings:

VCCSA Voltage- *Auto?*
CPU PLL Voltage- *Auto?*
PCH Voltage- *Auto?*

I suppose "Auto" isn't corrent

Look at my post 618


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mati1983*
> 
> I would like to Overclock a Core i5-2500K to 4.5GHz
> Can someone tell me who have Sandy Bridge ( like 2500K, 2600K or 2700K) and overclocked to 4.5 Ghz oraz higher - what to put on in this particular Bios settings:
> VCCSA Voltage- *Auto?*
> CPU PLL Voltage- *Auto?*
> PCH Voltage- *Auto?*
> I suppose "Auto" isn't corrent
> Look at my post 618


I googles VCCSA voltage tonight, I was curious. There seems to be mixed opinions on it. I left mine alone (3570k i5). Set my CPU core to 44, bclk to 103.0, and manually raised my voltage to 1.25..I've gone as low as 1.22 b4 but I don't think it makes that huge of a diff..a friend of mine on OCN told me to stay below "80-85is" as far as temps goes..if thats the case I think I can bump my overclock a bit more with a voltage boost and core boos cause I'm sitting pretty at 65c on load.t.

As fas as the VCCSA I left it alone. I have no clue what it does and I don't want to mess anything up. CPU PLL Voltage same thing I left it alone. I figure if I can be stable with just doing the 3 things I did y play with anything else..sorry I can't be much help but my suggestion leave it alone


----------



## Z Overlord

I got mine installed and my body is ready









What is Management Engine Interface? I see it as an option on the install disc.


----------



## 7tronic

Hey all,

Looking to buy a Sabertooth Z77, I have no mobo at present (fried the last one







), so need to get one fast. I like how these boards are reviewing, plus they look great.

The plan is to get a new mobo, then to flog my 7970's and get a pair of Gainward Phantoms instead.

I have a question about the PCI-e slot spacing, would you fit two 3 slot GTX 680's (or similar) in SLI on this board? Can someone please confirm?

Many thanks.

G.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7tronic*
> 
> Hey all,
> Looking to buy a Sabertooth Z77, I have no mobo at present (fried the last one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), so need to get one fast. I like how these boards are reviewing, plus they look great.
> The plan is to get a new mobo, then to flog my 7970's and get a pair of Gainward Phantoms instead.
> I have a question about the PCI-e slot spacing, would you fit two 3 slot GTX 680's (or similar) in SLI on this board? Can someone please confirm?
> Many thanks.
> G.


I believe so but its going to be tight at that point.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> What cpu coolers are you guys using ? I'm looking for something that will work fairly quiet with small overclocks, not trying to beat any numbers here, just first time overclocking just to see what the fuss is all about.
> Here's my rig,
> Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
> CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W ATX12V
> ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX
> CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CML16GX3M4A1600C9
> EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
> Asus VG236H 23" Full HD 120Hz 3D multimedia Height & Swivel Adjustable WideScreen LCD Monitor w/nVidia 3D Vision Kit hard bundle
> Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
> Corsair Obsidian Series 550D Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
> Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)


Nice rig!







I have an almost identical setup... I am sportin' the corsair H100 and I can barely hear my machine purr when running at full load with stock radiator fans (the fans I want are 20$ a piece and will come in the second wave of upgrades along with more hard drive space).


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7tronic*
> 
> Hey all,
> Looking to buy a Sabertooth Z77, I have no mobo at present (fried the last one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), so need to get one fast. I like how these boards are reviewing, plus they look great.
> The plan is to get a new mobo, then to flog my 7970's and get a pair of Gainward Phantoms instead.
> I have a question about the PCI-e slot spacing, would you fit two 3 slot GTX 680's (or similar) in SLI on this board? Can someone please confirm?
> Many thanks.
> G.


K, currently I have a 3slot Asus gtx 570 running in SLI....heat issues galore. I had to put one of the little covers that go in the assist fan slot between the 2 cards to give my top card breathing room. Also, i run the fans on my top card at 50% when I game. Without the spacer I've hit temps as high as 90...the game shut itself down at that point. with the spacer and the fan running at 50% I get normal gaming temps. And no, the spacer isn't an aesthetic problem, I have it tucked way back so no one can see it.

But with my understanding of the EVGA reference card cooling the way the air runs is out the card through the front slots..so, it might not be that huge of a problem as I'm having where the air blows directly onto the bottom card, and because they were so close together, the air had no where to go.

Either way, I love this board, the proximity of the cards is a minor issue cause it can be handled with a fans or brackets to level out the cards ( fix the droop), and in my case a spacer

wow just checked on your card..589 euros!!!!!! WOW! Check the cooling solution on that card, looks like its like mine, air blows down. Not sure thoght so research it.....580 EUROS!!!!!!!


----------



## atinoco

Hey guys any of you guys know if the CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 model CMZ16GX3M4X1866C9R work well with this mobo?, the 8 GB kit (2x 4 GB) Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9 it's in the QVL but the 16 GB isn't, are those the same modules in the 8 GB and the 16 GB kit? should I go for the 16 GB kit or get 2 or the 8 GB kits that are in QVL? I'd rather get the 16 GB 4x4 GB matched kit if it's the same ram, since i might use the same memory next year if I upgrade to a quad channel motherboard.



thanks for the feedback

-Andres


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Hey guys any of you guys know if the CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 model CMZ16GX3M4X1866C9R work well with this mobo?, the 8 GB kit (2x 4 GB) Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9 it's in the QVL but the 16 GB isn't, are those the same modules in the 8 GB and the 16 GB kit? should I go for the 16 GB kit or get 2 or the 8 GB kits that are in QVL? I'd rather get the 16 GB 4x4 GB matched kit if it's the same ram, since i might use the same memory next year if I upgrade to a quad channel motherboard.
> 
> thanks for the feedback
> -Andres


it'll work, same memory, different kits.
I have that Patriot memory at the bottom of your list. Or at least the same timings. I bought mine in 2x4 kits total of 16gigs.

quad channel mobo should get quad channel Ram. But thats a whole diffrent upgrade. I'm sure it'll run the dual you get though


----------



## atinoco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> it'll work, same memory, different kits.
> I have that Patriot memory at the bottom of your list. Or at least the same timings. I bought mine in 2x4 kits total of 16gigs.
> quad channel mobo should get quad channel Ram. But thats a whole diffrent upgrade. I'm sure it'll run the dual you get though


Ty for the reply Blatsz32, since I have my eye on the 16 GB 4x 4 GB Kit which I assume it's a quad channel kit....my only concern would be the quad channel kit running on a dual channel board, I guess it should work...just want to know if someone knows for sure....I live in south America and i get these parts from the US....so returning them means extra costs that i want to avoid....


----------



## 7tronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I believe so but its going to be tight at that point.


Thanks for your reply navit, I will go with one so.







Worst case the Evga 4GB are standard form factor, though the Phantoms appear to have better cooling.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ths61*
> 
> Sxcerino,
> How did you get your Display Port to work? Any specific configurations?
> Also, have you tried to use both the Display Port and HDMI port at the same time ?
> Thanks,
> Tim


The DP port on my Sabertooth worked automatically. But this was when I didn't have a GPU installed. I did not have to change any of the default settings in UFEI.
It's worth noting that my monitor is DP1.2 (samsung s23a750d).

The HDMI did not work if you're using a HDMI 1.4 cable. It will work with 1.3 HDMI cable, as another user mentioned earlier.
My HDMI was working when i used a HDMI -> DVI-D cable. But my HDMI1.4 didn't.

Hope that helps.


----------



## ths61

Thanks for the response. I just got my Display Port working.

I was using a DisplayPort-2-DVI cable that worked on a DELL PC that I have. I guess it didn't like this cable. I switched to a standard Display Port cable and hooked it up to the Display Port on the 30" Dell flat screen. That configuration worked fine. I now have 2560x1600 via Display Port on a 30" Dell flat screen and 1920x1200 on a 24" Dell flat screen in an extended desktop configuration.

This is pretty impressive dual head setup for an on-chip graphics co-processor. This PC is going to be an office machine replacing an old ASUS build, so no gaming is required.

I wonder why it didn't like the DisplayPort-2-DVI cable were my other machines use it fine?

Also, the ASUS specs page indicate "... Maximum shared memory of 1696 MB ...", but in the BIOS, the max memory they allow you to dedicate to Graphics is 1024MB. The Spec and the BIOS seem out of sync.

Well it is working now. This is the 1st of 2 Sabertooth Z77's that I will be building out. I wanted to get the kinks out of the first one before pulling the trigger on the second one.

Now to see if I can get it any quieter by replacing fans and stock cooler. Any recommendations on a silent CPU cooler that will fit ?

The onboard audio via Toslink Optical out into a Wyred 4 Sound MicroDAC sounds really nice. Again, pretty impressive for an onboard audio solution.

Thanks again,
Tim


----------



## Z Overlord

So sometimes my PC wouldn't display video when I start the PC and nothing would boot, updated bios hope it fixes this

BTW, does the Bios detect the default settings for the Samsung Green Ram? Thanks

I ask since there is no XMP profile and it could be wrong ram settings that causes it


----------



## iARDAs

Updating the bios on this motherboard is as easy as using Asus Ezflash right guys?

Download the bios to the USB and update it via Asus EZFlash?

When i first put my system up, should updating the bios be my priority?


----------



## SPMOkc73

So I ordered the stuff in my signature yesterday and of course have been working Google over for every video/install/review I can find. Im upgrading from a AMD 965BR with a GTX 580 and only a HD no SSD to the sig. I cant wait to see what this board and the intel ivy chip can do in comparison, I know its going to be lovely. Are there any basic tips for installing it that I need to know, I admit I only scanned the 69 pages of text so far and info may already be there.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Updating the bios on this motherboard is as easy as using Asus Ezflash right guys?
> 
> Download the bios to the USB and update it via Asus EZFlash?
> 
> When i first put my system up, should updating the bios be my priority?


yes to all

This is my first Asus board, I simply put the bios file into my flash drive and made sure to put the flash drive in the usb port labeled bios flash or something along those lines

The update fixes some stability issues and adds more cpu model support.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Updating the bios on this motherboard is as easy as using Asus Ezflash right guys?
> 
> Download the bios to the USB and update it via Asus EZFlash?
> 
> When i first put my system up, should updating the bios be my priority?


Yes


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> So I ordered the stuff in my signature yesterday and of course have been working Google over for every video/install/review I can find. Im upgrading from a AMD 965BR with a GTX 580 and only a HD no SSD to the sig. I cant wait to see what this board and the intel ivy chip can do in comparison, I know its going to be lovely. Are there any basic tips for installing it that I need to know, I admit I only scanned the 69 pages of text so far and info may already be there.


I came from an AMD 1090 and it's night and day to be honest, although I would have done a sd if I were you , what a difference it made.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ths61*
> 
> Thanks for the response. I just got my Display Port working.
> I was using a DisplayPort-2-DVI cable that worked on a DELL PC that I have. I guess it didn't like this cable. I switched to a standard Display Port cable and hooked it up to the Display Port on the 30" Dell flat screen. That configuration worked fine. I now have 2560x1600 via Display Port on a 30" Dell flat screen and 1920x1200 on a 24" Dell flat screen in an extended desktop configuration.
> This is pretty impressive dual head setup for an on-chip graphics co-processor. This PC is going to be an office machine replacing an old ASUS build, so no gaming is required.
> I wonder why it didn't like the DisplayPort-2-DVI cable were my other machines use it fine?
> Also, the ASUS specs page indicate "... Maximum shared memory of 1696 MB ...", but in the BIOS, the max memory they allow you to dedicate to Graphics is 1024MB. The Spec and the BIOS seem out of sync.
> Well it is working now. This is the 1st of 2 Sabertooth Z77's that I will be building out. I wanted to get the kinks out of the first one before pulling the trigger on the second one.
> Now to see if I can get it any quieter by replacing fans and stock cooler. Any recommendations on a silent CPU cooler that will fit ?
> The onboard audio via Toslink Optical out into a Wyred 4 Sound MicroDAC sounds really nice. Again, pretty impressive for an onboard audio solution.
> Thanks again,
> Tim


Not sure about the memory part.

Just about any CPU cooler will fit. If you're not overclocking, you could just passive cool it without a fan.

Silver arrow and D14 are popular choices for high end air cooling. H100 for closed loop water. Hyper 212 Evo for cheap and quiet but not as cool of a solution.


----------



## Pinesse

Is there a way to disable the green led?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I came from an AMD 1090 and it's night and day to be honest, although I would have done a sd if I were you , what a difference it made.


The new build will have SSD the Corsair Force Series 3 120Gb and a 2TB HD.


----------



## Vispre

Anyone using G.skill Trident X Series RAM? I just purchased the 2x 8GB for my Sabertooth Z77 / IB 3770k build. I'd love to know if anyone has had any issues?


----------



## Blatsz32

To all the AMD converts..welcome to the club. I came from a 990fxa-ud7 I used a 1100t and an FX-8150...tell you what, I'll nvr go back to the 8150 ..EVER! I wish I still had my 1100t cause I'd use it on my UD-7 as a server. I am so glad I went with INTEL. The 1100tx6 served me well and I would probably have stuck with AMD but when I got Bulldozer and the FX-8150 ...well I don't know how to describe it without being vulgar.

I should have known from the day of purchase that the new AMD chipset would be doomed. I had to return the mobo I purchased 5 times( Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5, they ran out of boards to exchange so I had to pay extra to get the ud-7) to exchange it for one that worked. This board, the Sabertooth, I built and fired up with np. I am very pleased, actually i am beyond pleased. I'm sure I'll run into hiccups and such but in the meantime I'll ride my roller coaster of satisfaction and enjoy it.

A good passive Heatsink should be fine for a low noise cooling solution. All the coolers mentioned above are great selections. For lower ambiant heat output I'd go with a closed water loop. The H100 or the Antec 920. I have used both and they performed very well. I used them on My AMD chips, both notorious for high temps..I did like the Antec 920 due to the bundled software that monitored temps and enabled you to control the fan via desktop opposed to manually pressing a button to raise fan speed and pump speed. the H100, to me, had a better placement. Being on the top it was nice to have an exhaust that conformed to the laws of physics ( heat rises) to relase the heat my gpus made.

I've also used the 212 evo before. It was nice. reasonble temp for the price but to me it felt like there was more ambiant heat than either of the water loops...If you are looking for cooler with a good price tag go with the 212. If you are willing to pay for good temps , ( in my opinion) lower ambiant heat, and easy control over fans then go with the Antec920 or H100.


----------



## Bobmitch

I have a question about my Sabertooth z77 board.

Here are some specs

Intel i7 3770K
16 GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1866 9-10-9-27
Corsair HX850 PSU
EVGA GTX 580 SC
Installed in a Thermaltake Overseer RX-1 Case

Now here is the issue I am having...it is random and unpredictable and only effects this one peripheral.

I have a Thermaltake Challenger Ultimate keyboard. It has two connectors...one for the Keyboard and one for the lighting system. I have the keyboard, itself, connected to the USB 2.0 hub up top. I have the power connector in the Asmedia 3.0. Now...I don't know if many of you are familiar with the issues that the Logitech G series keyboard have with X58, and P67 chipset motherboards, but my situation somewhat is a mirror of that. I can use the keyboard 95% of the time, normally. Then for no reason, the keys become un-responsive. I can reboot and the keyboard stays un-responsive...now catch this...I can reboot...hit esc to enter the bois of the MB and get in with no problems...I can reboot into an Acronis recovery disk and the keyboard will work. In order to get the keyboard to respond in Windows...I have to either unplug and replug...or shut down and power back up. Sometimes it happens when the machine is dead cold. Sometimes, it happens for no reason. I have chatted with Thermaltake support about this. As with the people on the Logitech boards, they have almost the exact symptoms. What's on common? These keyboards have USB hubs built into them. Also...the software to program the keyboards is written by the same company for both Thermaltake and Logitech.

One thing that seemed to aggravate the situation the other day...I upgraded my Asus AI suite....my take...when something polls the hardware of my machine...the keyboard seems to go asleep. I have the latest bios 1015 and have been tempted to backflash to the 900 one. The new bios was supposed to fix some USB compatibility issues with some peripherals...obviously not the keyboard.

Anyone familiar with this kind of issue???

Thanks in advance....

Bob


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> To all the AMD converts..welcome to the club. I came from a 990fxa-ud7 I used a 1100t and an FX-8150...tell you what, I'll nvr go back to the 8150 ..EVER! I wish I still had my 1100t cause I'd use it on my UD-7 as a server. I am so glad I went with INTEL. The 1100tx6 served me well and I would probably have stuck with AMD but when I got Bulldozer and the FX-8150 ...well I don't know how to describe it without being vulgar.
> I should have known from the day of purchase that the new AMD chipset would be doomed. I had to return the mobo I purchased 5 times( Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5, they ran out of boards to exchange so I had to pay extra to get the ud-7) to exchange it for one that worked. This board, the Sabertooth, I built and fired up with np. I am very pleased, actually i am beyond pleased. I'm sure I'll run into hiccups and such but in the meantime I'll ride my roller coaster of satisfaction and enjoy it.
> A good passive Heatsink should be fine for a low noise cooling solution. All the coolers mentioned above are great selections. For lower ambiant heat output I'd go with a closed water loop. The H100 or the Antec 920. I have used both and they performed very well. I used them on My AMD chips, both notorious for high temps..I did like the Antec 920 due to the bundled software that monitored temps and enabled you to control the fan via desktop opposed to manually pressing a button to raise fan speed and pump speed. the H100, to me, had a better placement. Being on the top it was nice to have an exhaust that conformed to the laws of physics ( heat rises) to relase the heat my gpus made.
> I've also used the 212 evo before. It was nice. reasonble temp for the price but to me it felt like there was more ambiant heat than either of the water loops...If you are looking for cooler with a good price tag go with the 212. If you are willing to pay for good temps , ( in my opinion) lower ambiant heat, and easy control over fans then go with the Antec920 or H100.


Sorry...posted to the wrong question...


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Hey guys any of you guys know if the CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 model CMZ16GX3M4X1866C9R work well with this mobo?, the 8 GB kit (2x 4 GB) Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9 it's in the QVL but the 16 GB isn't, are those the same modules in the 8 GB and the 16 GB kit? should I go for the 16 GB kit or get 2 or the 8 GB kits that are in QVL? I'd rather get the 16 GB 4x4 GB matched kit if it's the same ram, since i might use the same memory next year if I upgrade to a quad channel motherboard.
> 
> thanks for the feedback
> -Andres


I purchased this memory and it is solid and fast!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233248&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&PageSize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true#scrollFullInfo

Not a big Windows index score person...but gives a 7.9 on the Sabertooth z77.


----------



## barryhhh

Hi all , about time i joined!
i have had a sabertooth in a box for a while waiting on my other components and they are finally here
i am running a 3770k with an antec h20 920 and after the motherboard splash screen a warning appears about the cpu fan , however it seem to be running fine.
are there any bios settings i need to change?
i could check my self however if there is a problem with the fan i dont want to keep it running for very long at all incase of cpu damage.

any ideas would be appreciated

complete specs:
sabertooth z77 Mobo
3770k cpu
antec h20 920 cooling
Corsair Vengeance 32GB Dual Channel kit 4x 8GB PC12800 DDR3
SilverStone ST75F 750W PSU
Silverstone SST-TJ09B Case

Currently deciding on a new gfx card , ,running an old asus 5870 while waiting

ill post pics once all running .


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barryhhh*
> 
> Hi all , about time i joined!
> i have had a sabertooth in a box for a while waiting on my other components and they are finally here
> i am running a 3770k with an antec h20 920 and after the motherboard splash screen a warning appears about the cpu fan , however it seem to be running fine.
> are there any bios settings i need to change?
> i could check my self however if there is a problem with the fan i dont want to keep it running for very long at all incase of cpu damage.
> any ideas would be appreciated
> complete specs:
> sabertooth z77 Mobo
> 3770k cpu
> antec h20 920 cooling
> Corsair Vengeance 32GB Dual Channel kit 4x 8GB PC12800 DDR3
> SilverStone ST75F 750W PSU
> Silverstone SST-TJ09B Case
> Currently deciding on a new gfx card , ,running an old asus 5870 while waiting
> ill post pics once all running .


You should be able to go into the bios and set the monitor for CPU fan to "Ignore" and that should stop the message.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barryhhh*
> 
> Hi all , about time i joined!
> i have had a sabertooth in a box for a while waiting on my other components and they are finally here
> i am running a 3770k with an antec h20 920 and after the motherboard splash screen a warning appears about the cpu fan , however it seem to be running fine.
> are there any bios settings i need to change?
> i could check my self however if there is a problem with the fan i dont want to keep it running for very long at all incase of cpu damage.
> any ideas would be appreciated
> complete specs:
> sabertooth z77 Mobo
> 3770k cpu
> antec h20 920 cooling
> Corsair Vengeance 32GB Dual Channel kit 4x 8GB PC12800 DDR3
> SilverStone ST75F 750W PSU
> Silverstone SST-TJ09B Case
> Currently deciding on a new gfx card , ,running an old asus 5870 while waiting
> ill post pics once all running .


Mine has the same fan error. Just turn it off in the bios. I have a H100 and I have it pluged in via molex. So no fan is connect to the CPU fan port. Also, I think the same happens when you plug a 3 pin in the 4pin CPU connect


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Hey guys any of you guys know if the CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 1866 model CMZ16GX3M4X1866C9R work well with this mobo?, the 8 GB kit (2x 4 GB) Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9 it's in the QVL but the 16 GB isn't, are those the same modules in the 8 GB and the 16 GB kit? should I go for the 16 GB kit or get 2 or the 8 GB kits that are in QVL? I'd rather get the 16 GB 4x4 GB matched kit if it's the same ram, since i might use the same memory next year if I upgrade to a quad channel motherboard.
> 
> thanks for the feedback
> -Andres


I have 16g corsair quad channel in this board now. Works just fine. No harm done and can upgrade boards in the future.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> yes to all
> This is my first Asus board, I simply put the bios file into my flash drive and made sure to put the flash drive in the usb port labeled bios flash or something along those lines
> The update fixes some stability issues and adds more cpu model support.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Yes


Thank you guys


----------



## iARDAs

I am now worried if my Zalman CNPS 11X Cpu cooler will fit this board.

Any ideas?

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1616/1/

Also what would I loose if i dont install the motherboard fan near the CPU. I will install the one on the rear though.


----------



## warakawa

I forgot to install the fans onto the Z77 Sabertooth before installing this motheboard to the case, does that I have to uninstall the motherboard in order to install the fans? Are the fans really worth the effort?


----------



## mikefromvegas

both fans can be installed after the mb is in the case.
As to if they are really worth it? I'm not sure.


----------



## OcSlave

Hi,
The fans must do something, without them there is non moving air under the armour.
Note that the mobo fan behind the pcie 1x slot makes the 1x slot impossible to use, i tried putting a titanium hd soundcard there and it would'nt fit into the 1x slot due to how high the little fan is, as i sli i had to get a 1x extension cable and adapter







, could'nt take the fan off without taking the nh-d14 off.

Ended up using teh 4x slot


----------



## Zantrill

3570K OC 4.1
This board
H100
800D
16 GB's of Corsair V LP XMP 1600MHz

With Fans = Mobo is 30c while room is at 70f

Anyone leave the fans off with sim spec's could maybe post Thermal Radar temp?


----------



## Arizonian

I'd install the fans only to keep the air underneath the thermal armor with air moving even if user defined to lower speeds at least it's something vs nothing. I can see having hot air trapped in between may raise temps.

I've got a question regarding the PCIe Express x16_3 (black) bandwidth setting in UEFI.

I can run it in *x1 mode* or x*4 mode*. It's default to x1.

At x4 mode the PCIe x16_3 the PCIe_3 slot runs x4 mode for high performance support. PCIe_1, PCIe_2, PCIe_3 are disabled.

At x1 mode the PCIe)_3 run at x1 mode with all slots enabled.

If I've only got the one dual GPU card which setting is best for me to run it at?


----------



## OcSlave

I'd think you's want to leave it at 1x unless you have 4x pcie card allready.
Here's just one card that can use 4x, there's many more uses for it like raid ect.
http://www.dabs.com/products/startech-com-4x-pcie-serial-adapter-card-67CQ.html

If your using the 4x slot with a 1x card i'd leave it at 1x as there would be no benifit


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcSlave*
> 
> I'd think you's want to leave it at 1x unless you have 4x pcie card allready.
> Here's just one card that can use 4x, there's many more uses for it like raid ect.
> http://www.dabs.com/products/startech-com-4x-pcie-serial-adapter-card-67CQ.html
> If your using the 4x slot with a 1x card i'd leave it at 1x as there would be no benifit


Thank you for the response with answer. I kind of felt that was the case just wanted to make sure.


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Thank you for the response with answer. I kind of felt that was the case just wanted to make sure.


That's ok


----------



## 7tronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> K, currently I have a 3slot Asus gtx 570 running in SLI....heat issues galore. I had to put one of the little covers that go in the assist fan slot between the 2 cards to give my top card breathing room. Also, i run the fans on my top card at 50% when I game. Without the spacer I've hit temps as high as 90...the game shut itself down at that point. with the spacer and the fan running at 50% I get normal gaming temps. And no, the spacer isn't an aesthetic problem, I have it tucked way back so no one can see it.
> But with my understanding of the EVGA reference card cooling the way the air runs is out the card through the front slots..so, it might not be that huge of a problem as I'm having where the air blows directly onto the bottom card, and because they were so close together, the air had no where to go.
> Either way, I love this board, the proximity of the cards is a minor issue cause it can be handled with a fans or brackets to level out the cards ( fix the droop), and in my case a spacer
> wow just checked on your card..589 euros!!!!!! WOW! Check the cooling solution on that card, looks like its like mine, air blows down. Not sure thoght so research it.....580 EUROS!!!!!!!


Hey Blatsz32, thanks for the response. I was under the impression it dumped most of the exhaust out the back. Looking at a few different reviews it seems to dump out the side as well, so as you say that is an issue. You're right the reference design would suit me better for SLI as it dumps exhaust directly out the back. My case is a FT02, so again the GPU backplates are facing up-so all the better.

I require 4GB cards as I'm running 5760 x 1080, next thing is to find a decent reference design that's not stupid money like the evga FTW. I was hoping to get them for less than list as I'm going self employed soon I can claim Vat back.









Glad to hear your spacer fix works, but 90 deg C is nuts







Would you consider putting the 570's under water?


----------



## neoro

Guys
I have go everything fixed up on the mobo
But I'm still awaiting for te graphics card

Question
Can I use the hdmi output to my tv to work for the time being?
(I also do not have a hdmi cable -_-a at the moment to confirm this )


----------



## iARDAs

Hmmm I just cant be sure that if i go SLI with Gigabyte 670 OC cards, where should i place my creative xfi titanium soundcard.

I am guessing between the 2 GPUs?

Well then hot air will be dumped to the soundcard but I do have 110 cfm side panel fan that I can aim there.

I purchased my 670 OC and will be purchasing a 2nd one down the road.

I wonder if i should sell my 670 OC and get 2 GPUs with reference cooling or design.


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmm I just cant be sure that if i go SLI with Gigabyte 670 OC cards, where should i place my creative xfi titanium soundcard.
> 
> I am guessing between the 2 GPUs?
> 
> Well then hot air will be dumped to the soundcard but I do have 110 cfm side panel fan that I can aim there.
> 
> I purchased my 670 OC and will be purchasing a 2nd one down the road.
> 
> I wonder if i should sell my 670 OC and get 2 GPUs with reference cooling or design.


Lol,
I used a 1x pcie extension cable with a right angled 1x pcie adapter









Theres little space behind first card and the small fan blocks that sound card as i have 1, extra bits cost me around £15, the 1x adapter was £12 nearly £15 with delivery









Here's a pic of my setup with teh cable and the adapter, its in my last pci slot away from the gfx giving great airflow
, using the boards 4x slot


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcSlave*
> 
> Lol,
> I used a 1x pcie extension cable with a right angled 1x pcie adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theres little space behind first card and the small fan blocks that sound card as i have 1, extra bits cost me around £15, the 1x adapter was £12 nearly £15 with delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of my setup with teh cable and the adapter, its in my last pci slot away from the gfx giving great airflow
> , using the boards 4x slot


Since I will be running the exact same setup with yours, sabertooth z77 and gigabyte 670Sli i will go with your route. But unfortunately I cant make anything with the above picture. 

You are using your soudcard on the below PCI slot? with extension cables?

EDIT : Ok i think I got it. Your setup. But the question is why didnt you use the middle PCI slot for the soundcard? Right between the 2 cards?


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Since I will be running the exact same setup with yours, sabertooth z77 and gigabyte 670Sli i will go with your route. But unfortunately I cant make anything with the above picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are using your soudcard on the below PCI slot? with extension cables?
> 
> EDIT : Ok i think I got it. Your setup. But the question is why didnt you use the middle PCI slot for the soundcard? Right between the 2 cards?


I got this from ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCI-E-Express-1X-Riser-Card-Ribbon-Adapter-Extender-Extension-Cable-With-Flex-/150820487288?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_InterfaceCards&hash=item231d9a0078
It would be better if i could of found a cable like the above but with a right angled 1x pcie but i could'nt so i got this aswell
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/lycom-dt-107r-pci-e-1x-1slot-right-angle-riser-card-a-dream-for-rackmount-users

As you can see in teh pic i've encluded, it's a great way to move a pcie card to somewhere better.
I use the last pci mount as the other 2 are too close to sli cards and create alot of uneeded heat, gives great space under card 2








I'm using the black 4x pcie slot at the end of the mobo.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcSlave*
> 
> I got this from ebay
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCI-E-Express-1X-Riser-Card-Ribbon-Adapter-Extender-Extension-Cable-With-Flex-/150820487288?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_InterfaceCards&hash=item231d9a0078
> It would be better if i could of found a cable like the above but with a right angled 1x pcie but i could'nt so i got this aswell
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/lycom-dt-107r-pci-e-1x-1slot-right-angle-riser-card-a-dream-for-rackmount-users
> As you can see in teh pic i've encluded, it's a great way to move a pcie card to somewhere better.
> I use the last pci mount as the other 2 are too close to sli cards and create alot of uneeded heat, gives great space under card 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the black 4x pcie slot at the end of the mobo.


Thank you for the better picture. This is the first time I am seeing this extension cable and it could be useful. +rep

But my question is now, the distance between your below GPU and the soundcard seems to be exactly the same distance if you placed your soundcard between the both GPUs and measure it against the top GPU.

Why didnt you want to place your soundcard to the middle slot?


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thank you for the better picture. This is the first time I am seeing this extension cable and it could be useful. +rep
> 
> But my question is now, the distance between your below GPU and the soundcard seems to be exactly the same distance if you placed your soundcard between the both GPUs and measure it against the top GPU.
> 
> Why didnt you want to place your soundcard to the middle slot?


Your joking are'nt you, there is less than a cm between top card and sc in top slot plus it won't fit anyway with the little mobo fan attached like i have.
There's 2 inch between gfx cards, sandwich the soundcard in here and it is extremely colse to the top cards fans ( windforce x3 ) which kills teh airflow for nearly 2 fans plus the sc takes up room so there is really only a few mm of space left between all 3 cards.
And teh bottom 4x slot allso is too close to sli windforce x3 fans by a few mm aswell

I have 3 inch's of clearence between sc and 2nd cards fans







, any other way it's more like a few mm

But i did'nt buy a nice case to have dead air or tight hot components so i could of lived with using teh mobo's pcie's but was nowhere near happy.

If your thinking of gb windforce x3's then maybe you might think about changing te side intake fan to extract.
With my hafx stock side 200mm fan on intake i was averaging a higher temp of around 5/10c ( all components ) compared to having it as extract, you can feel the warm air coming out even if i'm only gaming, these cards dump alot of hot air into the case, they only dump so much because even at low temps the coolor is working awsome and is removing alot of heat which is keeping the cards cool but heating everything else up via warm/hot air.


----------



## iARDAs

Hmm interesting. I would have assumed that the distance between those 2 GPUs would have been a bit bigger lol...

I guess i will have to go with that extension cable route, or just dump the motherboard fan and install my soundcard there...

I will have side panel cooling so maybe it would still be good.


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmm interesting. I would have assumed that the distance between those 2 GPUs would have been a bit bigger lol...
> 
> I guess i will have to go with that extension cable route, or just dump the motherboard fan and install my soundcard there...
> 
> I will have side panel cooling so maybe it would still be good.











Even using the top pcie slot is risky, the sc is extremely close to the back of the gfx card, this raises the temp of that card by around 5/10c.
Obviously if your not troubled by temps a hot card and sc should create no issues as long as there not too hot.

Once you chuck 2 cards on this mobo with bigger heatsinks space becomes an issue and the gaps between pcie slots soon get smaller


----------



## Blatsz32

New stable 4532.72 overclock settings...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2384811
set the voltage to +offset and 0.120.
Ran IntelBurn Test and OCCT, oh and some BF3, stable with load temps at 59-68c...haven't hit any 70-80c at all.

Run some stability tests on your cpu, then feel the area arund you NB and SB..if it super hot then use your Thermal Armor fans...if it isn't that bad take out assist fan1 and just use the one at the to to exhaust the air out. Slip in your sound card and listen to your tunes.

I think the space between the 2 cards is pretty small but a sound cards profile shouldn't be so obtrusive that it cuts GFX card exhaust to the point of raising temps to unacceptable lvls. My triple slot cards in sli are a real problem. I peaked at 90c playing BF3 for 2 hours, cards closed the game down. Anyway, I solved the issue with a small riser to separate the cards a bit and also raised the fan to 50% ( still quite)..and all was good. I don't exceed temps of 67c on my top card. therefore I believe a SC in the middle of 2 regular dual slotters should be no problem at all. But that's just an opinion.


----------



## Fesarius

Hi there,

Im in the process of buying a sabertooth z77, but im un sure if i should rather go for the Asus P8Z77-v Deluxe.
Can anyone help me choose the right one performance wise, like the sabertooth only supports up to DDR3 1866 but the P8 supports up to DDR3 2800(o.c) and then ill decide if the looks of the sabertooth are worth it.








BTW ive already bought an intel 3770k.

Thanks


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> Hi there,
> Im in the process of buying a sabertooth z77, but im un sure if i should rather go for the Asus P8Z77-v Deluxe.
> Can anyone help me choose the right one performance wise, like the sabertooth only supports up to DDR3 1866 but the P8 supports up to DDR3 2800(o.c) and then ill decide if the looks of the sabertooth are worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW ive already bought an intel 3770k.
> Thanks


Sabertooth supports higher ram to 2400. Its a typo on the site.
Look at the manual.


----------



## rwchui

Here is my Z77 Sabertooth rig update!


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> Hi there,
> Im in the process of buying a sabertooth z77, but im un sure if i should rather go for the Asus P8Z77-v Deluxe.
> Can anyone help me choose the right one performance wise, like the sabertooth only supports up to DDR3 1866 but the P8 supports up to DDR3 2800(o.c) and then ill decide if the looks of the sabertooth are worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW ive already bought an intel 3770k.
> Thanks


Plans for the new set up? Gaming, Video and audio stuffs, home and office work?

WHOA!!!! Is that the new GTX670 CUII? It looks like a dual slotter....sexy! If it's a dual I'm switching out my triples ....do tell!


----------



## rwchui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Plans for the new set up? Gaming, Video and audio stuffs, home and office work?
> WHOA!!!! Is that the new GTX670 CUII? It looks like a dual slotter....sexy! If it's a dual I'm switching out my triples ....do tell!


Its a dual slot and its faster than stock gtx 680 out of the box since its the TOP version.


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Plans for the new set up? Gaming, Video and audio stuffs, home and office work?


Im gana use it for gameing and overclocking. ive read that the 16 phase power on the P8 is better for overclocking? and i want to pick a board that is future proof. if the sabertooth only supports up to 2400mhz and the P8 supports up to 2800mhz dont you think thats better? coz i dont wana be upgrading in another year


----------



## 7tronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwchui*
> 
> Here is my Z77 Sabertooth rig update!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet rig rwchui, I've got same case as you and after seeing that I'm going for the z77 for definite-if only for aesthetics alone!









Also gives me a definite on where my 7970's will sit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> Im gana use it for gameing and overclocking. ive read that the 16 phase power on the P8 is better for overclocking? and i want to pick a board that is future proof. if the sabertooth only supports up to 2400mhz and the P8 supports up to 2800mhz dont you think thats better? coz i dont wana be upgrading in another year


Depends on how the phases are set up. The P8Z77-V PRO is 12 phase for the CPU and 4 for the igpu.
Sabertooth is 8 CPU, 4 igpu and 2 ram

Cause a board supports higher ram, dont make it better.
Futreproof dont exist in the industry.

Many have OC with 8 phase over the years on many boards.


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Depends on how the phases are set up. The P8Z77-V PRO is 12 phase for the CPU and 4 for the igpu.
> Sabertooth is 8 CPU, 4 igpu and 2 ram
> Cause a board supports higher ram, dont make it better.
> Futreproof dont exist in the industry.
> Many have OC with 8 phase over the years on many boards.


the asus P8Z77-V Deluxe has 16 phase for the cpu and 4 phase for the iGpu.

would you say 8 phase on the sabertooth is good for overclocking? or do you think 16 is better?

about the RAM do you think theres an improvement from 2400 to 2800mhz? and when they say it can support up to 32gb is that at 2400mhz?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> the asus P8Z77-V Deluxe has 16 phase for the cpu and 4 phase for the iGpu.
> would you say 8 phase on the sabertooth is good for overclocking? or do you think 16 is better?
> about the RAM do you think theres an improvement from 2400 to 2800mhz? and when they say it can support up to 32gb is that at 2400mhz?


8 phase is fine for overclocking. Dont forget that you are not always guarantee to get high OC with CPU. Even with people who has had the same mobo/cpu/ram can get different OC resluts. Its just luck of the draw.
The difference is very small from 2400 to 2800, thats if you can get the system be be stable at those clocks.

Your not 100% grantee to do so.


----------



## 9Thermal9

So, that is what it suppose to look like.







Sweet.


----------



## xxxyyy

Hi,
I was about to purchase this motherboard, but 2 questions stopped me. I hope someone can help meout with this.
1-Can the air flow under the thermal armor be reversed? Asus suggests on the manual to pull air from the back of the case, and I don't like that for two reasons: first there's no filter on the back fan so I'll end up with a ton of dust under the armor... which is not nice. Second, I have hot air coming out of the case on the back... and pulling air from the back would not be good.
So I need to know if it's possible to reverse seamlessly those two little fans on the armor, BOTH of them.
2-The P8z77-v deluxe has 16 phases for the CPU, the Sabertooth just 8: does this mean that the deluxe is going to be a better overclocker, everything else being the same?
Thanks!


----------



## Z Overlord

So what are some good overclocking guides for this board or IB in general?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxxyyy*
> 
> Hi,
> I was about to purchase this motherboard, but 2 questions stopped me. I hope someone can help meout with this.
> 1-Can the air flow under the thermal armor be reversed? Asus suggests on the manual to pull air from the back of the case, and I don't like that for two reasons: first there's no filter on the back fan so I'll end up with a ton of dust under the armor... which is not nice. Second, I have hot air coming out of the case on the back... and pulling air from the back would not be good.
> So I need to know if it's possible to reverse seamlessly those two little fans on the armor, BOTH of them.
> 2-The P8z77-v deluxe has 16 phases for the CPU, the Sabertooth just 8: does this mean that the deluxe is going to be a better overclocker, everything else being the same?
> Thanks!


The more phases dont always mean better OC.
The mobo assist fan would be better to have as intake.

The dust wont be much, as the airflow is not that high to make a big difference. Same goes for the heat coming from your rear of the case.
I got my hand on the back of my case, and the air coming from it is cool, not warm.
Without knowing what your system is like in specs, you can arrange how the heat will leave your case.


----------



## xxxyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The more phases dont always mean better OC.
> The mobo assist fan would be better to have as intake.
> The dust wont be much, as the airflow is not that high to make a big difference. Same goes for the heat coming from your rear of the case.
> I got my hand on the back of my case, and the air coming from it is cool, not warm.
> Without knowing what your system is like in specs, you can arrange how the heat will leave your case.


Well, my PC is under my desktop and in an corner, so it gets pretty warm, expecially... well, not in winter.
Also, I live, unluckly, in a dusty environment.
Why you say it would not be a good idea to reverse the flow? My case has a pretty good ventilation (Fractal Design Arc midi tower)
So I suppose it can be reversed?


----------



## warakawa

can someone tell me how to install the second assist fan? I can not get the wire under the thermal armour.

Also in the user manual, the diagram indicated that it requires 4 screws for the second assist fan, but there are only 3 screw holes.


----------



## silver57

Hi, I am new to this site but I really need help. I am getting a black screen when I boot up my machine and also my sabertooth motherboard has the dram led on. I am not sure what to do and I just got parts and built my system yesterday.

-Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
-i5-2400 Sandy Bridge
-Asus GT 440 DirectCU Silent 1Gb DDR3
-60gb SSD Mushkin
-XFX Pro550 Power Supply
-Ranger Computer case

Should the motherboard automatically recognize the graphics card or not? Also should I put the graphics card into a certain PCI-slot because I have been at this for a couple days. Help is much appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silver57*
> 
> Hi, I am new to this site but I really need help. I am getting a black screen when I boot up my machine and also my sabertooth motherboard has the dram led on. I am not sure what to do and I just got parts and built my system yesterday.
> -Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
> -i5-2400 Sandy Bridge
> -Asus GT 440 DirectCU Silent 1Gb DDR3
> -60gb SSD Mushkin
> -XFX Pro550 Power Supply
> -Ranger Computer case
> Should the motherboard automatically recognize the graphics card or not? Also should I put the graphics card into a certain PCI-slot because I have been at this for a couple days. Help is much appreciated. Thanks.


Are you gonna upgrade your GPU/CPU soon. dont see why you spent over $250 on a mobo for the i5 2400 with a GT440. Would been better to get a cheaper board if this was a budget build. Would be better to have gotten a Z68 board instead.

The top PCI-e slot is what you want to use and make the card is working. If the Dram is on, then you have either a problem with the ram or you didnt set the correct settings in the bios.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warakawa*
> 
> can someone tell me how to install the second assist fan? I can not get the wire under the thermal armour.
> Also in the user manual, the diagram indicated that it requires 4 screws for the second assist fan, but there are only 3 screw holes.


Just use only 3 screws only. Four is there as some other fans can be mounted instead. You tuck in the wire underneath the fan.


----------



## silver57

I do plan on upgrading my cpu/Gpu in the near future. My reason for buying what I bought was to upgrade later. I decided to spend good money on my motherboard and processor for the time being. Knowing that I will be building more systems in the future and upgrading them. By the way I didn't spend $250 on my motherboard, I actually spent $209 for it. Good deal!! And Thanks for the help! I'll try it out.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warakawa*
> 
> can someone tell me how to install the second assist fan? I can not get the wire under the thermal armour.
> Also in the user manual, the diagram indicated that it requires 4 screws for the second assist fan, but there are only 3 screw holes.


You will only need the 3 screws and you kinda have to tuck the wire in first then the fan.


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 8 phase is fine for overclocking. Dont forget that you are not always guarantee to get high OC with CPU. Even with people who has had the same mobo/cpu/ram can get different OC resluts. Its just luck of the draw.
> The difference is very small from 2400 to 2800, thats if you can get the system be be stable at those clocks.
> Your not 100% grantee to do so.


okay.. so if you were in my situation, what board would you buy? the sabertooth or the P8Z77-V deluxe for overclocking and features?

btw i want to try for 5ghz on water cooling, is this possible, and which board would be easier to get there?

thanks bud


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 8 phase is fine for overclocking. Dont forget that you are not always guarantee to get high OC with CPU. Even with people who has had the same mobo/cpu/ram can get different OC resluts. Its just luck of the draw.
> The difference is very small from 2400 to 2800, thats if you can get the system be be stable at those clocks.
> Your not 100% grantee to do so.


okay.. so if you were in my situation, what board would you buy? the sabertooth or the P8Z77-V deluxe for overclocking and features?

btw i want to try for 5ghz on water cooling, is this possible, and which board would be easier to get there?

thanks bud


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> okay.. so if you were in my situation, what board would you buy? the sabertooth or the P8Z77-V deluxe for overclocking and features?
> btw i want to try for 5ghz on water cooling, is this possible, and which board would be easier to get there?
> thanks bud


Its not the board that will give 5ghz, its the cpu. you can have 5 of the same CPu, and only one can hit 4.8Ghz, the rest can only do 4.6Ghz, other 3 only 4.5Ghz
Its luck of the draw.
I could care less of the extra features like bluetooth, wifi, mpcie. None of those interest me.
I dislike the color blue on my board, just too very common.

Either board can help you OC, like I said its luck of the draw for the CPU.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> okay.. so if you were in my situation, what board would you buy? the sabertooth or the P8Z77-V deluxe for overclocking and features?
> btw i want to try for 5ghz on water cooling, is this possible, and which board would be easier to get there?
> thanks bud
> 
> 
> 
> Its not the board that will give 5ghz, its the cpu. you can have 5 of the same CPu, and only one can hit 4.8Ghz, the rest can only do 4.6Ghz, other 3 only 4.5Ghz
> Its luck of the draw.
> I could care less of the extra features like bluetooth, wifi, mpcie. None of those interest me.
> I dislike the color blue on my board, just too very common.
> 
> Either board can help you OC, like I said its luck of the draw for the CPU.
Click to expand...

I Love my Sabertooth. Had the Deluxe been all black I would have gotten that one. I do love all the extra bells and whistles. But I wanted an all black build and I am not disapointed at all.


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Its not the board that will give 5ghz, its the cpu. you can have 5 of the same CPu, and only one can hit 4.8Ghz, the rest can only do 4.6Ghz, other 3 only 4.5Ghz
> Its luck of the draw.
> I could care less of the extra features like bluetooth, wifi, mpcie. None of those interest me.
> I dislike the color blue on my board, just too very common.
> Either board can help you OC, like I said its luck of the draw for the CPU.


so you would take the sabertooth?

i belive the board has got some influence on the overclock on the cpu, like i dont think you'll get as high of an overclock on a much cheaper board would you?


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> so you would take the sabertooth?
> i belive the board has got some influence on the overclock on the cpu, like i dont think you'll get as high of an overclock on a much cheaper board would you?


I'd say this board, the components are much more resilient and higher quality, so I'd say stability is easier since it is possible for an OC to be unstable due to strain on misc items on the board.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> so you would take the sabertooth?
> i belive the board has got some influence on the overclock on the cpu, like i dont think you'll get as high of an overclock on a much cheaper board would you?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say this board, the components are much more resilient and higher quality, so I'd say stability is easier since it is possible for an OC to be unstable due to strain on misc items on the board.
Click to expand...

With that said, you can't go wrong with the 5 year warrenty as well


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> I'd say this board, the components are much more resilient and higher quality, so I'd say stability is easier since it is possible for an OC to be unstable due to strain on misc items on the board.


so would you say the 8 phase on the sabertooth is as good as the 16 phase on the P8Z77-V duluxe?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

your posting in the sabertooth forum, so I will go for the sabertooth, as we already own it.

Its not only the phase that will help OC, so dont focus on that alone. There is many other factors on the board that will help keep your system stable.


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> your posting in the sabertooth forum, so I will go for the sabertooth, as we already own it.
> Its not only the phase that will help OC, so dont focus on that alone. There is many other factors on the board that will help keep your system stable.


the reason im posting on this forum is because maybe someone that has bought the sabertooth regrets buying because theres something better for the same price..

what other factors influence the overclocking on the motherboard?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> so would you say the 8 phase on the sabertooth is as good as the 16 phase on the P8Z77-V duluxe?


Have you done research on the processor? Speed is absolutely correct in telling you its all about the processor. Granted a good mobo, psu, and cooling help a lot but more than anything its about the CPU. Tell me how a person with a Asus Maximus can get 5ghz on air but the next guy with the same board and specs can't pass 4.6 on water? Some processors just have the luck of having a more stable die.
Speaking of Dies, the 3770k is the new IB flagship, Intel built the Ivy on a 28nm die..while Sandy was built on a larger 32nm. What this all means is you are going to have alot of heat out put. so, no matter what board you use you'll get heat heat heat. If you have the cash splurge and get the Blue board..but personally, I'll stick with the black board. I like it. I have a stable 4537.53(3570k) OC on 1.25v I'm happy. My heats bellow 68c and again I'm happy....

Like the guy said, you're asking on a Sabertooth Thread..we are all going to say Sabertooth. Once we all figure out its quirks and the bios I guarantee everyone on this thread will be happy with their purchase..even the ones that hit bumps at the beginning and have to RMA..once they get everything going, they'll be happy campers too.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Have you done research on the processor? Speed is absolutely correct in telling you its all about the processor. Granted a good mobo, psu, and cooling help a lot but more than anything its about the CPU. Tell me how a person with a Asus Maximus can get 5ghz on air but the next guy with the same board and specs can't pass 4.6 on water? Some processors just have the luck of having a more stable die.
> Speaking of Dies, the 3770k is the new IB flagship, Intel built the Ivy on a 28nm die..while Sandy was built on a larger 32nm. What this all means is you are going to have alot of heat out put. so, no matter what board you use you'll get heat heat heat. If you have the cash splurge and get the Blue board..but personally, I'll stick with the black board. I like it. I have a stable 4537.53(3570k) OC on 1.25v I'm happy. My heats bellow 68c and again I'm happy....
> Like the guy said, you're asking on a Sabertooth Thread..we are all going to say Sabertooth. Once we all figure out its quirks and the bios I guarantee everyone on this thread will be happy with their purchase..even the ones that hit bumps at the beginning and have to RMA..once they get everything going, they'll be happy campers too.


Blatsz32 made good valid points also. I got my 3770k to 4Ghz with ease. Idle 31-36c and load 52-58c gaming, stress testing is 63-68c will try to get to 4.5Ghz which is what my goal to do is, but I'm not guaranteed to get that.
More or less I love the look of the board in my case.

This is what my Sabertooth looks like in my case, it does look great.


----------



## Z Overlord

hey blatz do you have a guide for ocing on this board or IB in general?


----------



## cris77

Hello everyone, I have this problem when I play multiplayer BF3.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img24052012201645.png/
I can not fix.
virtu VMP LUCID enabled for hd4000 gpu

my spec: dimastech mini-ax 850-sabertooth z77- 3770k-8gb g skill 2400-msi 570 tf3 PE/OC-ssd corsair force 3 120GB


----------



## Blatsz32

Theres Threads I visited on the site. It doesn't really give you a way but it does give you guide lines.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1250090/official-ivy-bridge-owners-thread - Thats where I got the idea to use OFFSET + voltage set to .120 to get 4.5 on my chip
http://www.overclock.net/t/1248928/asus-z77-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-5-25 - Thats where I went to get a better understanding of our Bios

Seems we'll all have to work together to get good over clocks and help out our community with our respective chips. I've been trying to post my setting etc. Mostly I used the Auto OC feature to get max BCLK and worked from there raising voltages etc. I found that I could get a good OC raising the BCLK instead of the turbo ratio..by doing that I didn't have to raise my voltages to high.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> Hello everyone, I have this problem when I play multiplayer BF3
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img24052012201645.png/
> I can not fix.
> my spec: dimastech mini-ax 850-sabertooth z77- 3770k-8gb g skill 2400-msi 570 tf3 PE/OC-ssd corsair force 3 120GB


Are you playing Ultra settings? It's a VRAM issue. If you are playing it on Ultra turn off AA. I have dual 570s and sometimes I get that on ULTRA. I lowered AA and turned off motion blur. Now I have zero issues with VRAM. Also if you are using VirtualMVP disable it.

Also are you using the latest drivers. I read somewhere that BF3 doesn't like OC cards..Y I don't know. I wish i could find the link. It mentioned that some peeps had to down clock thier OC edition cards to the reference Specs. Strange right?


----------



## cris77

hello
game with Ultra settings perfectly
AA differed disabled
FXAA enabled the nvidia control panel.
the problem arises when I do I enable Virtu VMP! I have a significant increase in FPS but it still crashes.
driver nvidia 301.42
is there a solution?
thanks


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> hello
> game with Ultra settings perfectly
> AA differed disabled
> FXAA enabled the nvidia control panel.
> the problem arises when I do I enable Virtu VMP! I have a significant increase in FPS but it still crashes.
> driver nvidia 301.42
> is there a solution?
> thanks


..I used VirtuMVP..gave me the crash you are posting. I stoped using it. It's supposed to be a booster when VSYNC is enabled ..I'll have to do more research on VMVP..I think for now, unless you are running below 60fps and are experiencing screen tearing, I think you should disable.

oh btw, from an old thread i posted about vram issues:" Both my 570s are running at 1.075 900/1800/2100. The only time a run into a vram limitation in bf3 is with aa cranked up. I run no aa through the game and 4x transparency aa through Nvidia control panel. Sit right around 1100mb vram usage. No motion blur as well but everything else on ultra. Usually running past the 1280mb vram wont crash anything it just slows it down alot, huge drop in fps. Oh yeah Id wait on keplar unless your set on running a single card. 570 in sli is no slouch, not by any means." that was an answer some one gave me.

There are setting to overclock the IGPU, which I asume VirtuMVP uses, maybe that would help..I'm not touching that though. I have a discreet card thats really nice so no need for Virtuemvp...theres also a thread on here about VMVP, mentions that theres still bugs with it when it comes to gaming. All it's really good for is benching.


----------



## cris77

thank you very much
place a picture of how they work when the ram is activated VMP
always tend to go up to the crash!

I think disabling the VMP at the expense of FPS


----------



## Blatsz32

How much FPS do you gain with VMVP? I can't even log into BF3 with it enabled. Might be SLI. I'll try and play some BF3 tomorrow without SLI and see what happens. I'll message you privately with my results. Apologies that I couldn't be more help. Bevenuto to OCN btw Cris.


----------



## cris77

my msi 570 (900-1800-2000 v.+87) FPS on BF3 (90-150) with virtu enabled
FPS on BF3 (60-100) with virtu disabled
in game render.drawfps 1 for FPS
no v-sync enabled!


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> my msi 570 (900-1800-2000 v.+87) FPS on BF3 (90-150) with virtu enabled
> FPS on BF3 (60-100) with virtu disabled
> in game render.drawfps 1 for FPS
> no v-sync enabled!


wow impressive, thats like having another GTX570 in sli..those are the same kind of numbers I have in SLI. Hmm. I wonder if raising the IGPU memory would help stabilize your issue of crashing......hmm.


----------



## Blatsz32

overclock temps and stable


----------



## cris77

3570k-- 4.7-- stable 1.32v


----------



## Neonecro

I have my 560 ti DS superclocked GPU installed in the second PCI-e x16 slot. It supports PCI-e x16 v2.0
For some reason in GPUz it says its only running at pci-e x8 v2.0 even when it's under load.

Any help would be appreciated!
THX

Neo


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonecro*
> 
> I have my 560 ti DS superclocked GPU installed in the second PCI-e x16 slot. It supports PCI-e x16 v2.0
> For some reason in GPUz it says its only running at pci-e x8 v2.0 even when it's under load.
> Any help would be appreciated!
> THX
> Neo


Why are you running it in the second slot ?
Have you tried the first slot?


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Have you done research on the processor? Speed is absolutely correct in telling you its all about the processor. Granted a good mobo, psu, and cooling help a lot but more than anything its about the CPU. Tell me how a person with a Asus Maximus can get 5ghz on air but the next guy with the same board and specs can't pass 4.6 on water? Some processors just have the luck of having a more stable die.
> Speaking of Dies, the 3770k is the new IB flagship, Intel built the Ivy on a 28nm die..while Sandy was built on a larger 32nm. What this all means is you are going to have alot of heat out put. so, no matter what board you use you'll get heat heat heat. If you have the cash splurge and get the Blue board..but personally, I'll stick with the black board. I like it. I have a stable 4537.53(3570k) OC on 1.25v I'm happy. My heats bellow 68c and again I'm happy....
> Like the guy said, you're asking on a Sabertooth Thread..we are all going to say Sabertooth. Once we all figure out its quirks and the bios I guarantee everyone on this thread will be happy with their purchase..even the ones that hit bumps at the beginning and have to RMA..once they get everything going, they'll be happy campers too.


what do you think the average overclock is on a 3770k? and about the ram. if the sabertooth supports up to ddr3 2400 and the P8Z77-V deluxe supports up to ddr3 2800, do you think for example the P8 would be more capable to support 32gb 2400mhz than the sabertooth with 32gb 2400mhz?

btw ivy bridge has a 22nm die

thanks


----------



## Arizonian

If running PCIe 3.0 GPU - should we be running PCIe x16 at GEN3 rather than 'AUTO'?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> If running PCIe 3.0 GPU - should we be running PCIe x16 at GEN3 rather than 'AUTO'?


Good question, the manual really doesnt tell you much about it.


----------



## xxxyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxxyyy*
> 
> Well, my PC is under my desktop and in an corner, so it gets pretty warm, expecially... well, not in winter.
> Also, I live, unluckly, in a dusty environment.
> Why you say it would not be a good idea to reverse the flow? My case has a pretty good ventilation (Fractal Design Arc midi tower)
> So I suppose it can be reversed?


Really nobody can't' tell me if the two assist fans on the motherboard can be reversed?
I would appreciate it very much.
Thanks!


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxxyyy*
> 
> Really nobody can't' tell me if the two assist fans on the motherboard can be reversed?
> I would appreciate it very much.
> Thanks!


Its just like any other fan just reverse it if you think thats what you need.


----------



## Sheld0r

Will be sending my Maximus V Gene back to Amazon tomorrow, due to random shutdowns. Rest of hardware was tested and ran fine with another board.
Thanks to Amazon: The board was in use for 3 weeks and now the error showed up. Mailed the support and they'll take it back and I'll get my money back. Just pure awesomeness!









Now I ordered a Sabertooth Z77 to go in my Corsair 650D ... I think it'll look very nice


----------



## Blatsz32

New overclock setting. Today I was readig through some posts and found that with the IB you need to downclock to overclock. Raising voltages is all good and stuff but seems figuring out where your negative offset is is the way to go. So, today I decided to try some things out..my old setting was Voltage off set +/.12 I belive..that seemed to bring my voltages up to 1.35-6 on load and temps in the high 70s..granted those are, from my understanding accebtable temps, but AI Suite kept giving me high temp warnings..I didn't like that much. so I raised my bus to 104.00,lowered ratio to 43, and set my offset to +/0.050. On full load, 10 passes of INTELBURNTEST, no warnings and temps in high 60s to mid 70s on varying cores. Running OCCT CPU:OCCT temps ranged from 55-65 on varying cores and only reached 1.26v max core voltage.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> btw ivy bridge has a 22nm die
> thanks


ya sorry, got Keplar on the brain. debating on a new card for a single card solution over my Sli570s...


----------



## Vispre

Anyone using G.skill Trident X RAM with this mobo and IB? Has it worked well? I've heard it'll go up to 2400 but you have to set it in bios first?


----------



## iARDAs

Does the speed of the ram really help alot?

I have Corsair rams which have 1600mhz speed.

Should I be looking for something better?


----------



## ths61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Not sure about the memory part.
> Just about any CPU cooler will fit. If you're not overclocking, you could just passive cool it without a fan.
> Silver arrow and D14 are popular choices for high end air cooling. H100 for closed loop water. Hyper 212 Evo for cheap and quiet but not as cool of a solution.


Picked up an H100 for my Sabertooth X58/980X PC to replace the H80. The H100 cools better and is quieter. It doesn't fit in my Corsair 600T case as a pusher as depicted by the instructions. The fan shrouds hit the top of the MoBo and the DIMM tabs. Had to mount the fans on top of the case as pullers. Ended up being an easier install using half of the screws. The H100 fans sound like a jet engine on boot, but quiets down after boot. Ran Prime 95 on 6 cores/12 threads, with VMWare running a large compile on 8 threads, Youtube 1080P trailer, James River Media Center 17 playing 16/44 audio, Task Manager, Resource Manager and Real Temps. The audio did not glitch once, but the YouTube video froze a couple of times. WindozeTask Mgr showed all threads @ 100% and Real Temp GT showed a max of 65 degrees C with the H100 on low speed. Mostly it was hovering in the upper 50's with all 12 threads pegged out a 100% with all of these tasks running. The H100 will be a nice addition to the X58 development sever during the work days to cut down on the ambient noise.

Also picked up a quiet 40mm fan to replace the 30mm Thermal Armor fan today. It is quieter, now need to find a quieter 30mm fan to replace the other Thermal Armor fan. My old ThermalTake case won't house the H100 without some significant mods. The Silver Arrow may have problems with my DIMM's heat syncs and I would have to bump out the door of the case to get it to fit. Time for some measurements and thought. The second Sabertooth Z77 will have a new case, so I think any of the solutions would work with the new case.

I will have to take some measurements to see if I can get either the Silver Arrow or the D14 to fit in the old ThermalTake case.

Are there any problems with cracking MoBo's with such large heat syncs in a vertical tower installation ??? Does anyone strap them to the top of the case to help support the weight ?

Thanks,
Tim


----------



## majnu

I don't know why people use Virtu MVP. It's bugged and a gimmick. Witcher 2 still crashes with it and apart from falsifying Heaven scores it's good for nothing.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I don't know why people use Virtu MVP. It's bugged and a gimmick. Witcher 2 still crashes with it and apart from falsifying Heaven scores it's good for nothing.


Virtu MVP does work very well, and not a gimmick. You need to adjust settings within game and inside MVP to work.
Not all games will benefit.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Does the speed of the ram really help alot?
> 
> I have Corsair rams which have 1600mhz speed.
> 
> Should I be looking for something better?


I think you are fine with 1600. Some mobos actually perform better with 1600. Atleast the AMD mobos do. Also, it seems a lot of hardware review sites use 1600mhz ram in thier test set ups, so I think you are good.


----------



## X3NIA

This is a stretch but I have a P8Z77-V Deluxe mobo, I know our mobos share similar BIOS.

When I run the GPU in the second PCIe slot it runs at 3.0 8x but the top slot is 3.0 16x, Newegg says both are x16 slots.

The GPU is stable in the x8 second slot but not in the x16 first slot... but it does run so the slot isn't completely dead. Is there a setting I could try messing with or anything to troubleshoot the issue? It literally is rock solid in the second slot but not in the first.


----------



## microc

i have this on my ib 3540 and z77 saber.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214026
no problem with the board at all.just make sure if you use this type of heat sink get low profile ram.
on the user with the vidoe card error have you updated the bios?? the new bios does have some bug fixes.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> I think you are fine with 1600. Some mobos actually perform better with 1600. Atleast the AMD mobos do. Also, it seems a lot of hardware review sites use 1600mhz ram in thier test set ups, so I think you are good.


thanks bro. +rep

1600 seems to be common as well.


----------



## Zantrill

It is what I am running. 4x4GB 1600. On this Sabertooth, I used XMP to set the mem to 1600 (as it was intended) and it gave me a slight bump on my 3570K to 4.1Ghz. With my H100 loads don't go over 67 @ 1.13v Complete stable. I know that's not impressive but the 1600 mem seems fine here.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> 3570k-- 4.7-- stable 1.32v


what are your temps and what kind of cooling?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> 3570K OC 4.1
> This board
> H100
> 800D
> 16 GB's of Corsair V LP XMP 1600MHz
> With Fans = Mobo is 30c while room is at 70f
> Anyone leave the fans off with sim spec's could maybe post Thermal Radar temp?


mine is similar. clock is at 4.3 have the h100. 2 front 120mm intake fans, one bottom 120mm intake fan radiator top mounted, 120mm exhaust fan in back. my temps on the thermal radar are never above 30-31 running full load.

which fans are you talking about leaving off?


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> 3570K OC 4.1
> This board
> H100
> 800D
> 16 GB's of Corsair V LP XMP 1600MHz
> With Fans = Mobo is 30c while room is at 70f
> Anyone leave the fans off with sim spec's could maybe post Thermal Radar temp?
> 
> 
> 
> mine is similar. clock is at 4.3 have the h100. 2 front 120mm intake fans, one bottom 120mm intake fan radiator top mounted, 120mm exhaust fan in back. my temps on the thermal radar are never above 30-31 running full load.
> 
> which fans are you talking about leaving off?
Click to expand...

talking about the 2 little fans on the mobo.


----------



## cris77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> what are your temps and what kind of cooling?


I OC ed my friend's pc
Noctua Nh C14
70-72-75-71


----------



## Slygamer

Quick Question:: Just installed my new sabertooth and was wondering for my G.Skill RipjawsZ 8(2x4gb) DDR3 2400MHz RAM what should i set the voltage to? It is rated for 1.65V, but when i set it to that it hovers around 1.671V. I lowered it to 1.63 and its now sitting at 1.645-1.65+. Basically what is the safest voltage i can set this RAM to be?


----------



## Omnicurse

Just picked up this bad boy 2 days ago, was my first Asus board.

I have my i5 2500k running at 4.8 with a 1.4vcore and get max load temps of 69-72c running IBT on Very High x20. Is there anything major you guys would suggest in the bios that i should disable or enable on this board?

Everything is pretty stable right now been gaming on it for 8hrs+, but if there's anything power wise i can disable/enable increase or decrease that would make it run that much better even tho i probably wouldn't notice it i'm open to suggestions.

All i did to oc was bump the multiplier to 48 and increased the voltage from auto to 1.4 (Crashed with 1.380 1385 1.390 etc), i also increased the CPU PLL voltage by 1 so its running at 1.8125. Is there anything else you would recommend changing?


----------



## TrevorW

I've searched for this a bit but haven't found a detailed answer and the installation guide was horrible...

For the second assist fan, the one that only requires three screws, how have people been able to tuck the wire underneath the thermal armor? I tried every orientation for the fan I could think of and couldn't get it to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Slygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrevorW*
> 
> I've searched for this a bit but haven't found a detailed answer and the installation guide was horrible...
> For the second assist fan, the one that only requires three screws, how have people been able to tuck the wire underneath the thermal armor? I tried every orientation for the fan I could think of and couldn't get it to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


I personally could not get the wire to tuck underneath at all, so it just have it connected over on top. It looks fine as the cord is not too long. Even funnier, it actually shows that the second assist fan should be connected with four long screws, but there are only three screw holes.


----------



## djchapm

Hi, Just got things together today and when I fire it up - the CPU LED is RED and I get a continuous beep. Dreading what this may mean after finally getting things together. Power LED is Green.
Sabertooth Z77
Core i7 3770
Corsair HX850W PSU
GSkill 1600 RAM
Noctua C14
everything else unplugged right now. After unplugging things, the beep goes away but CPU LED still red. Afraid to leave it on for more than 5 seconds.
Also unplugged all my case headers except for power switch.

Any Help? Freaking me out. Been 4-5 years since my last build, this is my 3rd build.

Thanks


----------



## toyopl

Just bought this board, and also first time builder.
Any pointers when assembling new desktop with this this board ?


----------



## id_mew

Just got a GTX 670 for my Sabertooth and when I check GPUZ if it's running on PCI-E 3.0 it shows that its running at PCI-E X16 V1.1
Is that normal, or do I have to enable somehting in the Bios?

Thanks.

Edit, never mind I figured it out.
When the graphic card is in power saving mode, it goes to PCIE 1.1, but when I am gaming it goes back to 3.0.
Done and Done


----------



## Z Overlord

So should I set the vcore manually or set it to offset? And what % of LLC? A guide I am reading advises 50%.


----------



## Gizmoha

Dear All,

I've got my eyes on this board since it came out in April and I'd love to build my new rig around it.

However, my lovely wife bought me 2 Inno3d's GTX 670 iChill HerculesZ 3000 for SLI last night

http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1499/pg1/inno3d-ichill-gtx-670-herculez-3000-graphics-card-review-introduction.html

Since both of them are 3 fans non-ref design and takes up 3 slots each... I've got a few concerns on my setup

1) Would I be able to fit my 2 GPUs on the 2 16x PCI-E express slots? or I have to resort to 8x slots? I want the PCIE3 boost

2) Also since I've read about the heat concern on the top card.. therefore I'd like to have at least some space in between the cards..

3) On case selection... originally I've had the Corsair 650D in mind...
but now I think its better to have a strong side panel intake for the GPUs... I'm currently looking at the CM Storm Troppers
Is there any better recommendations?

4) Side question... how much Watts I need for PSU? (My CPU will be 3570k with H100)

Just wanted to know if my favourite mobo sabertooth z77 can facilitate my needs or if there'r other recommendations?

Apols for having so much questions in one go.. but I'd like to have my build ready by this weekend... I'm having next week off..

Thanks in advance


----------



## Blatsz32

Hey gang, so been reading the posts since my last post ..I'm going to try and tackle everything in one post. If I forget something just message me.

1)X3Nia, what exactly is the stability issue? Is it going down to x8? The manual states that if both slots are used it downs it's self to x8 on both slots. there shouldn't be any performance issue at all. At of the ivdeocard threads that address the x8vsx16 issue say that there isn't any difference that is noticeable. there isn't anything in the bios that will change it to x16.

2)Xantrill, you can also change it manually. If you change the memory ratio to either 100:100 or 100:133 you can set it to 1600 without having to use the XMP. Doing that you can keep your intended memory speed and timings and mess around with the ratio. Bump it up to 43 or 44. If you have a good chip you may be able to run at those frequencys on stock voltage. Currently I did the auto OC, it set my RAM to it's intended timings, OCed my 1866mhz by 20%, and set my BCLK to 103.0/ratio 42. My CPU is clocked at 4325.76 ( something like that). I raised my ratio to 44 and now I'm clocked at 4532.78. Voltage off set + 0.050.
LLC at 50% max voltage 1.26... stable. temps at 65-70 load and idle at 25-38. It's hot here in Michigan at the moment so ambient temps are high.

3) K now, the assist fans I do belive are both shaped the same. They are square with one corner on a slant so that there is no mistaking which way to put the fan in. Now this doesn't mean that everyone got the same kind of fans but the ones I got there was no mistaking how they went into the slot. And they only used 3 screws. On assist fan 2, by the PCI slots you tuck the wires in SouthBridge side..there should be space. Assist fan one, the Northbridge side, you need to do this wierd looping. It's hard to describe. It's not really hidden its just nicely looped. looks very clean and neat.

4) Slygamer, are you trying to OC the RAM? Y are you changing the voltages. Set your MOBO to XMP, it'll set it's correct timings and voltages. If you feel like doing it manually set it to it's recomended voltages. the raising of voltage during usage is normal.http://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Memory-Tweak/Mem-TweakIt.shtml. Try that to really analyze your memory and see what it's limitations are. You'll be able to OC your RAM in the windows enviroment.

5) Omni, whats your goal? 5? Just because someone else go it to 5 doesn't mean all chips will do it. My old AMD FX-8150, everyone said 5 was an easy OC. Tell you what, I couldn't hit 5 with acceptable temps while it was under a custoom water loop. I stayed at 4.8...Try bumping the LLC to Extreme and disableing the option that lowers voltage and clock ..I can't remember what its called. Apologies.

6) djchapm, check you CPU and the cpu craddle on the mobo, ar the pins bent? Have you taken off the plastic on the cpu cooler. When the computer is posting it goes through the motions of checking all your components, CPU being first. If you are gettting the beep right at the start you have a cpu issue, which think you already know. If you have an old compatible CPU test the socket to rule that out..if you don't: When I had mobo issues on my last build ( had to return a mobo 6 times) I had the store check the mobo before I took it home. i had to take my CPU with me so they could rule out the CPU. Ya I had to return the mobo 6 times but 3 of those times I was at the store already and they checked it out there b4 I went home.
7) zOVerlord..try manual if you don't like how high your voltage goes onlad with your overclock..ie: had 42 voltage hit 1.38..no need to go that high on low OC, I set it to offset

8) I have a CM Storm Trooper, sharp case I love it with good wireing job you'll have good temps. Witht he heat issue..I'm not sure what to tell you. I'm battleing that issue as we speak. Under heavy gaming My cards reach 80+ under auto fan setting. wehhn I manually change fans to run at 50-60% I stay at normal range. If you can do something to lvl out the to card and cut down on the wieght droop you'll be fine.


----------



## djchapm

@toyopl - Just put mine together today. I think I have a bad board or CPU... but 2 things I would've done differently - install those armor fans before putting on your CPU Cooler (that is if you're cooling w/ air). And then based on my issue - I think I would power it up with the CPU and RAM installed only (no video, HDDs, any cards etc, don't even need monitor) to make sure no error lights come on. Because if they do you'll end up taking all of it back off to test things one at a time. And maybe one other thing - get into the BIOS before you update it for the first time. in going through instructions it makes it sound like you should do the flash bios first - now I wonder if that is contributing to my issue. Maybe not that logical but I'm hosed right now and wish I would've tried it out before updating anything just to make sure I had a solid starting point or not.


----------



## djchapm

@Blatsz32 - Thanks for response. Checked the cradle, pins look good as far as I can tell. Yea I took plastic off my noctua. The sound did start immediately on powering - After I unplugged everything I don't get the beep anymore, not sure where the sound was coming from or why it went away. I also tried an alternate power supply and still getting red light.

There's nothing special to dropping in the CPU right? Just make sure the arrow corner is good and the two notches and gently drop it in right? Then when the retainer comes down it pretty much smashes the hell out of it


----------



## silent levite

Hi guys,

I'm new here. I'm a proud owner of a sabertooth z77 as well. I just have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

1). Has anybody tried (and succeeded) in installing a CM V6GT cooler upright? I tried but it was hitting the upper armor, so I had to install it sideways.

2). How should the 2 assist fans be installed for optimum efficiency? I installed the middle one as an intake, while the upper one as an exhaust. I'm just worried that since I installed my V6GT sideways, the air from the cooler is directly feeding into the intake middle fan.

System is working fine.. my normal temperatures are about 28-32*C....

Thanks! More power to you.


----------



## microc

dj have you used the asus flash back to put the new cpu code of bios 1015 onto your mb?? also did you plug in the extra 8 pin power the cpu needs??? also check that the cpu cooler not shorting out the cpu on the back side of the mb. also check how tight the cpu heat sink is you could be flexing the cpu.


----------



## Blatsz32

I've been tearing down my system the last few weeks to find the optimal placement of my water cooling pump and rad. On start-up I always leave my gpus out and my RAM, I've never noticed my mobo stopping on post. I always get the one peep telling me that my cpu is good. No warning that say, RAM or GPUs are seated wrong. Check on everything microc mentioned those are all viable possibilities..also apologies on asking you about the plastic on the heat sink base....I only asked cause I did just hat..such a noob mistake, lol


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silent levite*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 2). How should the 2 assist fans be installed for optimum efficiency? I installed the middle one as an intake, while the upper one as an exhaust. I'm just worried that since I installed my V6GT sideways, the air from the cooler is directly feeding into the intake middle fan.
> .


i was under the impression that the manufacturer suggested that the fans be installed with the logo on the fans facing out...I thought thats what it sain in the manual.

So your V6 fans are pointing up and down ar pulllning into the sink then being pushed out of the top? That should be fine. Is the case abl eto exhaust at the top? IF yes you are all good


----------



## airforceones001

Can someone please tell me why, as per the instructions, switching sata mode to raid before I start using intel smart response won't allow windows to boot? comes up with error 0x1f: a patch isn't allowing something or other.. I already have my SSD all partitioned for ISRT (25gb) and IRST (8gb).

I have a 2550K, vertex3 60gb, 1tb seagate barracuda, and 8gb of g.skill along with the z77 sabertooth. should be good right?

Also curious if it's just this simple??
http://www.pcmmc.com/0x1f.php


----------



## silent levite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> i was under the impression that the manufacturer suggested that the fans be installed with the logo on the fans facing out...I thought thats what it sain in the manual.
> So your V6 fans are pointing up and down ar pulllning into the sink then being pushed out of the top? That should be fine. Is the case abl eto exhaust at the top? IF yes you are all good


For the assist fan, i didnt want to put the top fan as intake, since i have a 140mm exhaust fan nearby and im afraid it would suck in the hot air.

Yes I have a 200mm exhaust fan on top... I may need to reverse the bottom fan of the V6 to make it push air into the sink though.. I think both of my fans are set to pull..


----------



## warakawa

is this Corsair Ram compatible with Z77 Sabertooth? I checked the user guide, it is not listed under 1600 MHz vendors lists


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warakawa*
> 
> is this Corsair Ram compatible with Z77 Sabertooth? I checked the user guide, it is not listed under 1600 MHz vendors lists


It will work just fine...


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airforceones001*
> 
> Can someone please tell me why, as per the instructions, switching sata mode to raid before I start using intel smart response won't allow windows to boot? comes up with error 0x1f: a patch isn't allowing something or other.. I already have my SSD all partitioned for ISRT (25gb) and IRST (8gb).
> I have a 2550K, vertex3 60gb, 1tb seagate barracuda, and 8gb of g.skill along with the z77 sabertooth. should be good right?
> Also curious if it's just this simple??
> http://www.pcmmc.com/0x1f.php


Does it boot in AHCI? I know they technically don't have to be but shouldn't the HDDS all match? I've nvr ran anyting in RAID so I don't know what I'm talking about but if you done it in that configuration before on a different system don't see why it wouldn't work on this one.


----------



## 7tronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheld0r*
> 
> Will be sending my Maximus V Gene back to Amazon tomorrow, due to random shutdowns. Rest of hardware was tested and ran fine with another board.
> Thanks to Amazon: The board was in use for 3 weeks and now the error showed up. Mailed the support and they'll take it back and I'll get my money back. Just pure awesomeness!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I ordered a Sabertooth Z77 to go in my Corsair 650D ... I think it'll look very nice


amazon.de are brilliant, much better than their UK counterparts


----------



## djchapm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microc*
> 
> dj have you used the asus flash back to put the new cpu code of bios 1015 onto your mb?? also did you plug in the extra 8 pin power the cpu needs??? also check that the cpu cooler not shorting out the cpu on the back side of the mb. also check how tight the cpu heat sink is you could be flexing the cpu.


Thanks Microc.
- Very first thing I did before powering on the first time was to use asus flashback to put on BIOS 1015.
- Checked and double checked 2 power supplies with 8-pin plugged in - that was my first thought too - not getting power.
- I removed the CPU Cooler for now... what am I looking for as far as a short? Just make sure nothing is touching the case except where the mobo is screwed in?

- well - just removed the mobo and put it on a piece of cardboard on top of static sheet. Same thing on power up.

Asus recommending RMA - their idea was to clear the CMOS. This blows.


----------



## airforceones001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Does it boot in AHCI? I know they technically don't have to be but shouldn't the HDDS all match? I've nvr ran anyting in RAID so I don't know what I'm talking about but if you done it in that configuration before on a different system don't see why it wouldn't work on this one.


I have to switch it back to AHCI to get it to boot. It works just fine after I do that.. but from reading the manual (page 4-35) and watching this old video 



 I figured it should be able to be switched over into false raid mode while ISRT is activated


----------



## urbanbuddha

I recently had to RMA my Z77 board, but I stupidly left both fans mounted.
When I got my new board, I got a new pair of fans but not a new set a screws.

Can anyone tell me the measurements for the "short fan screws" and the "long fan screws"?
If possible, where I can purchase them online?

Thanks.


----------



## Blatsz32

LOL, so many posts about the Assist fans. These little buggers are a pain in the butt for the S-tooth owners.
Hey buddah I only used my SB assist fan. I have some extra screws. If you live in US48 I can mail em to you, or just ask ASUS to give you back your screws.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> LOL, so many posts about the Assist fans. These little buggers are a pain in the butt for the S-tooth owners.
> Hey buddah I only used my SB assist fan. I have some extra screws. If you live in US48 I can mail em to you, or just ask ASUS to give you back your screws.


Agree with you about the fans, lol, they do seem to be causing quite the stink here. I really have had no trouble with mine at all.


----------



## urbanbuddha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> LOL, so many posts about the Assist fans. These little buggers are a pain in the butt for the S-tooth owners.
> Hey buddah I only used my SB assist fan. I have some extra screws. If you live in US48 I can mail em to you, or just ask ASUS to give you back your screws.


Thanks for the offer







Though I live in Canada









I actually like the fans. They are audible (when I had them) at really high rpms, but with FanXpert, its easy to keep them quiet.
With my experience, it keeps the board a bit cooler. Though I just rather have some air circulating under the armour.


----------



## Omnicurse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 5) Omni, whats your goal? 5? Just because someone else go it to 5 doesn't mean all chips will do it. My old AMD FX-8150, everyone said 5 was an easy OC. Tell you what, I couldn't hit 5 with acceptable temps while it was under a custoom water loop. I stayed at 4.8...Try bumping the LLC to Extreme and disableing the option that lowers voltage and clock ..I can't remember what its called. Apologies.


Yeah i don't think ill be hitting 5.0 without a custom loop honestly. I'm pretty sure the processor can handle it. The temps just aren't acceptable. On IBT it spikes to the high 80's and can even hit the 90's. It doesn't crash. But those temps are just not acceptable.

I am aware that IBT stresses much more than Prime does by about 10-15c and the chances of seeing that kind of stress while playing a modern day game are pretty slim. Still i feel like a WC loop would be the way to go. I just don't know much about them. So if anyone can point me in the right direction for the specifics of what to buy to setup a loop for the CPU block, be much appreciated!


----------



## Blatsz32

my WC loop- 1 Swiftech Apogee HD, 10ft Tygon Black 1/2id tubing, Swiftech MCP655 pump, Swiftech 240mm and 120mm rad, DangerDen Res, and Primochill fluid. my fans on the 240rad are the ones that came on my H100, they are nice..then on my 120 I have a coolMaster fan. I'll Post pics later


----------



## ths61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> ... my temps on the thermal radar are never above 30-31 running full load....


Try using Real Temp GT for the core temps.

I have noticed that Thermal Radar's temps under load are considerably less that what the individual Real Temp cores show.

I have read that Thermal Radar does not show the actual core temps, but maybe a socket temp. Can anyone verify this ???


----------



## MoYu

Im gettings these VCore Warnings when im running Prime95 in blend 5 hours in. Im not getting any errors from Prime but i got a pop-up from asus warning of VCore Temps. Im looking at the Thermal radar and my Vcore is 48Degrees and Vcore(Back) is 46Degrees. Readings from Core-Temp indicates my max temps are 70,73,74, and 77.


----------



## Neonecro

I tryed to install some corsair ram and they weren't compatible they were vengeance as well. Try get them tested where you buy it from before bringing it home if the store does that. The place i deal with tested my cpu ram and motherboard for free good thing too.


----------



## Neonecro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gizmoha*
> 
> Dear All,
> I've got my eyes on this board since it came out in April and I'd love to build my new rig around it.
> However, my lovely wife bought me 2 Inno3d's GTX 670 iChill HerculesZ 3000 for SLI last night
> http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1499/pg1/inno3d-ichill-gtx-670-herculez-3000-graphics-card-review-introduction.html
> Since both of them are 3 fans non-ref design and takes up 3 slots each... I've got a few concerns on my setup
> 1) Would I be able to fit my 2 GPUs on the 2 16x PCI-E express slots? or I have to resort to 8x slots? I want the PCIE3 boost
> 2) Also since I've read about the heat concern on the top card.. therefore I'd like to have at least some space in between the cards..
> 
> 3) On case selection... originally I've had the Corsair 650D in mind...
> but now I think its better to have a strong side panel intake for the GPUs... I'm currently looking at the CM Storm Troppers
> Is there any better recommendations?
> 4) Side question... how much Watts I need for PSU? (My CPU will be 3570k with H100)


1. When you stick both cards into the pci-e 16x slots they will drop to 8x mode, a single card would run in pci-e 16x in the top slot. The third pci-e slot is 4x i believe. If you want them both to run at 16x then you should look at a board that supports it. Though there aren't many i don't think.

2. HAF X with a nice side panel fan and you can install the VGA support that can complement a 80mm fan for your cards. Also there is a video card vent that can hold a 120 mm fan that aims directly at your cards. I LUV MY HAF-X!

3. Haf-x you won't be disappointed. It's a bit expensive but very nice.

4. As for power supply, I dunno however i looked at some reviews and it seems to draw just over 400 watts are load. Maybe an AX1200 by Corsair?

hope it helps


----------



## SPMOkc73

Well, yesterday my 500r arrived early, today the rest is suppose to be here. I have a question about the BIOS flash. If you put the flash file (SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS.CAP) on a USB, do you need to rename it to Z77ST.CAP like indicated in the readme files to make it work with the flash method?


----------



## urbanbuddha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neonecro*
> 
> I tryed to install some corsair ram and they weren't compatible they were vengeance as well. Try get them tested where you buy it from before bringing it home if the store does that. The place i deal with tested my cpu ram and motherboard for free good thing too.


I have Corsair Ram "similar" to yours (CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9, http://www.corsair.com/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9.html).

Just note that you'll have to go into your BIOS and either set your motherboard to use XMP or custom to get the 1600Mhz


----------



## djchapm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Well, yesterday my 500r arrived early, today the rest is suppose to be here. I have a question about the BIOS flash. If you put the flash file (SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS.CAP) on a USB, do you need to rename it to Z77ST.CAP like indicated in the readme files to make it work with the flash method?


Yep - renaming worked for me.


----------



## bandook

Hey, all! New 3570k/St owner here. Ill get my system specs up soon. Running at 4.6 +0.070 right now. Iirc its 1.328 load. Anyways, great board! Just one question to throw out. Anyone seen the AI monitor read crazy temps? When I checked this morning had an error for MB temp of 128c! Think it was just a fluke, but unsettling when u spend the night before doing a bunch of voltage tweaking. Any monitor software I've used has had its quirks, just seeing if I can confirm that this is indeed a quirk. If it is, no big deal. Will just have to change assist fan profile cause it makes them spin full speed.


----------



## darkphantom

Just installed my Crucial M4 128gb - noticed that windows takes forever to preload (windows logo) any ideas?


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Well, yesterday my 500r arrived early, today the rest is suppose to be here. I have a question about the BIOS flash. If you put the flash file (SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS.CAP) on a USB, do you need to rename it to Z77ST.CAP like indicated in the readme files to make it work with the flash method?


I didn't rename it. As long as USB stick is in fat32 and no spaces in name it should work. Easily the most simple board to flash BIOS that I've seen.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Just installed my Crucial M4 128gb - noticed that windows takes forever to preload (windows logo) any ideas?


Not sure, but what port did u use? U install latest drivers? Firmware up to date on ssd? I am at sign on 6 seconds after post on a hyperx.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> I didn't rename it. As long as USB stick is in fat32 and no spaces in name it should work. Easily the most simple board to flash BIOS that I've seen.


Thats strange, wonder what it does if you have both ways in the root directory?


----------



## ths61

All,

Real Temps TjMAX is 101 Celsius for my i7-980X and 103 Celsius for my i7-3770S.

These seem a bit hot.

What are the MAX safe operating core temps for the Ivy Bridge chips ???

Thanks in advance.


----------



## djchapm

Hi,

Any notes/suggestions on drivers listed in downloads for section on Asus for Win 7 64? I'm assuming I should install all of these. Not sure what Virtu is for. And I keep getting a message that my system doesn't meet the minimum requirements for Intel Rapid Start and Intel Smart Connect Technology. It seems I'd at least want Rapid start.... anyone else have problems with that?
And I don't understand the need for MEI - sounds like it is for remote desktop etc via bluetooth but this board doesn't have bluetooth right?

Edit - right now I only have a 256Gig plextor SSD connected to the intel sata3 port.

Edit- I'm an idiot (impatient) - If i would've read the motherboard docs more closely I'd have seen you have to first enable Rapid Start and Smart Connect in the BIOS.

Still not sure of usefulness of MEI.

Thanks!


----------



## ths61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchapm*
> 
> ... Not sure what Virtu is for. ...


LucidLogix Virtu MVP allows simultaneous use of both the On-CPU Intel HD4000 iGPU graphics co-processor and a discrete Graphics Card added to a PCIe slot. It is not needed if you are just using just the iGPU.

See Docs or Website for more details:

*LucidLogix Virtu MVP*

*Up to 60% Hybrid Graphics Boost and 3X Faster Video Conversion*
LucidLogix Virtu MVP featuring HyperFormance™ Technology boosts your discrete graphics card up to 60% beyond its original performance through the test of 3DMark Vantage. Designed for Intel® processor graphics and Windows® 7 PCs, it perfectly combines the performance of discrete graphics cards with fast computing iGPU. Also with the newly designed Virtual Sync, users can enjoy a smoother gaming experience by eliminating tearing artifacts. LucidLogix Virtu MVP could also dynamically assign tasks to the best available graphics resource, based on power, performance and system load. This allows users to fully utilize 3x faster video conversion with Intel® Quick Sync Video 2.0 technology while retaining high-end 3D rendering and gaming performance, provided by both NVIDIA® and AMD graphic cards. When the discrete graphics card is not required, power consumption goes automatically down to near zero, making the system more environmentally-friendly. For users searching for perfection, LucidLogix Virtu MVP provides great graphical performance and the best flexibility and efficiency.

* LucidLogix® Virtu Universal MVP™ supports Windows® 7 operating system.
** Intel® Quick Sync Video feature is supported by 3rd/2nd generation Intel® Core™ processor family.
*** System Config: OS: Windows 7 64bit SP1 | MB: P8Z77-V DELUXE | CPU: CPU-1155-QB15-2700K-3.5G-Sandy BRIDGE100-8M |DIMM: DDR3 G.SKILL 17000CL9Q-16GBZH 4GB * 4 | Lucidvirtu MVP version: V2.1.110.19997 | On-board Intel VGA Driver version: V8.15.10.2598 | ASUS GTX580 Driver version: V8.17.12.8562


----------



## Slygamer

@Blatsz32 - I am trying to set the RAM to be what it is intended for and I tried running the X.M.P. profile and its POSTing sometimes. The DRAM LED is lit when it doesn't POST. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## SPMOkc73

I have my new rig assembled and am going thru updates etc but i noticed my hdd is not showing only my ssd???


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slygamer*
> 
> @Blatsz32 - I am trying to set the RAM to be what it is intended for and I tried running the X.M.P. profile and its POSTing sometimes. The DRAM LED is lit when it doesn't POST. Am I doing something wrong?


So sometimes it posts and sometimes it doesn't post past the memory? You've used the xmp profile and it works sometimes, how about the memory ratio option? set it to 100:100 then go to the next option and choose memory 2400. Also,I used the Auto Overclock utility in the bios. It set my memory to 100:133 at 1853..I raised it to 1922. try the OC then change to the right option or close to it.


----------



## airforceones001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> I have my new rig assembled and am going thru updates etc but i noticed my hdd is not showing only my ssd???


I'm having a similar problem except it's the ssd that's not showing. It shows up in device manager and I even partitioned it for my as of yet non-functioning ISRT and IRST setup. BTW, does anyone know what format the partitions have to be for Smart Response and Rapid Start? or just how to get my ssd to show up in my computer?...


----------



## SPMOkc73

oops forgot to initialize it, alls good now...i think


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airforceones001*
> 
> I'm having a similar problem except it's the ssd that's not showing. It shows up in device manager and I even partitioned it for my as of yet non-functioning ISRT and IRST setup. BTW, does anyone know what format the partitions have to be for Smart Response and Rapid Start? or just how to get my ssd to show up in my computer?...


Have you tried plugging it into a different port? I have mine on the Intel (brown) port, as primary. And two 1tb drives on the white ports. Not sure that is ideal, but it worked to get it up and running. Here's intels procedure for enableing ISRT and IRST. Basically make a partition, format it, restart, enter bios, enable IRST, then install the software. For Smart Response, u have to have your drives in raid mode.


----------



## airforceones001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> Have you tried plugging it into a different port? I have mine on the Intel (brown) port, as primary. And two 1tb drives on the white ports. Not sure that is ideal, but it worked to get it up and running. Here's intels procedure for enableing ISRT and IRST. Basically make a partition, format it, restart, enter bios, enable IRST, then install the software. For Smart Response, u have to have your drives in raid mode.


I have it plugged into a brown port as well. when i open up disk management to partition the ssd, it's listed as unallocated, no drive letter. right clicking on it doesnt even give me the "shrink volume" set of options, just "new simple volume"...


----------



## bandook

Yeah, so you then create a new volume. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? I'm a little confused. Are you planning on using the whole ssd for rapid start? Or you gonna partition off your ram size, and use the rest for storage? You just doing this to save power? If no, then why not just use your ssd as primary os, and enjoy the crazy fast boot/resume? Sorry if i'm not understanding you right.


----------



## airforceones001

okay so i guess IRST is already running on it and has allocated the whole drive to itself... i didn't realize it autoinstalled everything from asus drivers disk. so i guess my next question is, can i partition off a new 8gb slice, open diskpart and just switch IRSTs preference over to the other one? also dont understand why in the fine print on pg 4-37 of the sabertooth manual it says set the cache ISRT memory value at 18.6gb? i thought it needed 20 or more?


----------



## cris77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ths61*
> 
> LucidLogix Virtu MVP allows simultaneous use of both the On-CPU Intel HD4000 iGPU graphics co-processor and a discrete Graphics Card added to a PCIe slot. It is not needed if you are just using just the iGPU.
> See Docs or Website for more details:
> *LucidLogix Virtu MVP*
> 
> *Up to 60% Hybrid Graphics Boost and 3X Faster Video Conversion*
> LucidLogix Virtu MVP featuring HyperFormance™ Technology boosts your discrete graphics card up to 60% beyond its original performance through the test of 3DMark Vantage. Designed for Intel® processor graphics and Windows® 7 PCs, it perfectly combines the performance of discrete graphics cards with fast computing iGPU. Also with the newly designed Virtual Sync, users can enjoy a smoother gaming experience by eliminating tearing artifacts. LucidLogix Virtu MVP could also dynamically assign tasks to the best available graphics resource, based on power, performance and system load. This allows users to fully utilize 3x faster video conversion with Intel® Quick Sync Video 2.0 technology while retaining high-end 3D rendering and gaming performance, provided by both NVIDIA® and AMD graphic cards. When the discrete graphics card is not required, power consumption goes automatically down to near zero, making the system more environmentally-friendly. For users searching for perfection, LucidLogix Virtu MVP provides great graphical performance and the best flexibility and efficiency.
> 
> * LucidLogix® Virtu Universal MVP™ supports Windows® 7 operating system.
> ** Intel® Quick Sync Video feature is supported by 3rd/2nd generation Intel® Core™ processor family.
> *** System Config: OS: Windows 7 64bit SP1 | MB: P8Z77-V DELUXE | CPU: CPU-1155-QB15-2700K-3.5G-Sandy BRIDGE100-8M |DIMM: DDR3 G.SKILL 17000CL9Q-16GBZH 4GB * 4 | Lucidvirtu MVP version: V2.1.110.19997 | On-board Intel VGA Driver version: V8.15.10.2598 | ASUS GTX580 Driver version: V8.17.12.8562


no comment!!


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Still deciding if I want to keep it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That right there is all kinds of WIN, I vote keep it!!!! hopefully I will be able to pick one of these up for my next build soon.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchapm*
> 
> @toyopl - Just put mine together today. I think I have a bad board or CPU... but 2 things I would've done differently - install those armor fans before putting on your CPU Cooler (that is if you're cooling w/ air). And then based on my issue - I think I would power it up with the CPU and RAM installed only (no video, HDDs, any cards etc, don't even need monitor) to make sure no error lights come on. Because if they do you'll end up taking all of it back off to test things one at a time. And maybe one other thing - get into the BIOS before you update it for the first time. in going through instructions it makes it sound like you should do the flash bios first - now I wonder if that is contributing to my issue. Maybe not that logical but I'm hosed right now and wish I would've tried it out before updating anything just to make sure I had a solid starting point or not.


Just for the record (this is for anyone that has yet to put there rig together), the mobo manual tells you step by step what to do in order... Read the whole thing if its your first time, and then just follow the directions in order as the chapters are written. Very user friendly.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ths61*
> 
> Try using Real Temp GT for the core temps.
> I have noticed that Thermal Radar's temps under load are considerably less that what the individual Real Temp cores show.
> I have read that Thermal Radar does not show the actual core temps, but maybe a socket temp. Can anyone verify this ???


I think you have something here. I was just referring to someone asking me what my thermal radar temps were for a similar setup. If you are stress testing you def dont want to use thermal radar. I had my 3570 clocked to 4.6 and was getting temps of about 71-74 using some more reliable programs... I have since clocked it down to just 4.3 until I can afford some better cooling... However, from the sounds of things. 70s is a relatively stable operating temp. Still rubs me the wrong way though for long periods of time for just a 4.5-4.6 clock.


----------



## Blatsz32

temp, voltage and frequency under load using OCCT


----------



## Bobmitch

Quick question for everyone...

Should I be using Intel Rapid Storage Manager? I am running a Samsung 830 series SSD as OS drive and Hitachi 1TB drive as data / program drive. AHCI mode in bios, so getting full speeds on both drives. Using the latest AHCI drivers 11.1 from Intel, but NOT using Rapid Storage Manager. Any benefits?

Thanks


----------



## SPMOkc73

Does anyone know where to get a USB header that would adapt the 3.0 to face up? I installed the z77 in a Corsair 500R and the front 3.0 header is big and the angle off the board looks nice but with the indention in the case for the board the 3.0 connection is too tight a fit. I'm currently using the 2.0 adapter, no big deal i only plug a G27 into the front, but i would like to connect it correctly if i can find an adapter. Thanks!

ps: love my Ivy Bridge intel, glad i dropped my AMD habit


----------



## id_mew

Any idea how to enable Intel Quick Sync? do I have to something in the bios?
thanks!


----------



## Blatsz32

Is anyone else having hibernation issues? My computer just doesn't do it. I have the c-states disabled in the bios I'm wondering if thats the issue.
Every now and then my computer will shut down and then restart 12 seconds later ( during non -used times). My screens stay on and my comp runs. Not that it's a problem its just that I don't have it set up like that in the OS. I want it to hibernate when I'm a sleep.


----------



## navit

I am having no trouble at all. ever since I reset the cmos jumper for my shutdown issue it has worked perfect.


----------



## toyopl

I'm stuck on PSU connectors.
I can't seem to fit a 8-pin cpu into the mobo.
I have Corsair AX850 psu and being a rookie I don't see a cable that will fit there,

Also, once you need to make power connection to psu do you just connect it to any available port or is there an order from left to right or opposie ?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> I'm stuck on PSU connectors.
> I can't seem to fit a 8-pin cpu into the mobo.
> I have Corsair AX850 psu and being a rookie I don't see a cable that will fit there,
> Also, once you need to make power connection to psu do you just connect it to any available port or is there an order from left to right or opposie ?


theres a resolve to that issue a few posts back. I didn't have the issue myself, I bought an extension. But I do remember someone else did. How they fixed it escapes me. Apologies


----------



## toyopl

I ended up splitting two 2x4 connector into 1x4pin connector and only used the 4 pin to attach it.
What does it mean, I have absolutely no idea, I saw in the Sabertooth manual that it showed you can conenct full 8pin or 6pin or 4pin, so the 4 pin was the only one out corsair cables that would fit.

Hopefully I won't be missing something, system works fine right now, my first desktop in 7 years, and I have no clue what to do with it other than game on it









Any programs I should download ?


----------



## toyopl

Sorry for bad quaility pic, but I wanted to show my build.


----------



## 9Thermal9

Really, clean.


----------



## toyopl

One more question, about ram this time.
I bought this ram 1600 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233203
However when I go into bios it says Memory Frequency 1333mhz and here's a screenshot from cpuz.
Is it running slower than it should ?


----------



## neoro

thats a clean setup
could you share how does all the cables look at the back? i'm having a hell of a time keeping them managed under the carpet


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> One more question, about ram this time.
> I bought this ram 1600 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233203
> However when I go into bios it says Memory Frequency 1333mhz and here's a screenshot from cpuz.
> Is it running slower than it should ?


I had the same issue with my Ripjaws...
Try going into the Bios (del at start) then F7 to advance
I change it to XMP setting and I got mine running at 1600 instead of 1333


----------



## Blatsz32

You can use the XMP or go to manual, change the memory ratio to 100:100, then go to next option , which I think is memory frequency and change it to your correct one 1600. I did the auto overclock..it downclocked my ram but I was able to change it in the bios to a 20% OC


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> temp, voltage and frequency under load using OCCT


under full load?! That's the best clock i've seen with a 3570k... nice

What kind of cooling?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> I ended up splitting two 2x4 connector into 1x4pin connector and only used the 4 pin to attach it.
> What does it mean, I have absolutely no idea, I saw in the Sabertooth manual that it showed you can conenct full 8pin or 6pin or 4pin, so the 4 pin was the only one out corsair cables that would fit.
> Hopefully I won't be missing something, system works fine right now, my first desktop in 7 years, and I have no clue what to do with it other than game on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any programs I should download ?


That's the way to do it. Some others said that they were able to get both 4 pins to fit to make the 8 pin, and though I am not calling them a liar, I am saying that Corsair must be inconsistent with the cables the package then. I just went with the single 4 pin and have no problems.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> One more question, about ram this time.
> I bought this ram 1600 http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233203
> However when I go into bios it says Memory Frequency 1333mhz and here's a screenshot from cpuz.
> Is it running slower than it should ?


Just verifying what the other two said. Had the same thing default with my Corsair vengeance. If you don't want to overclock your ram just go to the advanced bios and change the freq from 1333 to 1600 manually then save. If you do the auto overclock via GUI from your OS then it may revert back if that's what the motherboard recognizes it as. That's the only bad thing about not using the recommended memory.


----------



## darkphantom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> Not sure, but what port did u use? U install latest drivers? Firmware up to date on ssd? I am at sign on 6 seconds after post on a hyperx.


I got it figured out, it was the intel drivers.

Anyways, that is resolved but the internet browsers are loading much slower now for some reason =/

Speed is 30+mpbs for down and up is showing around 5mbps.

Any ideas on what might be causing the slow down? Just did a fresh install as well.


----------



## Blatsz32

custom water cooling. the voltage is off on CPU-z..at load it was 1.28. It ended up not being stable for a long tim. It crashed on me while playing bf3 for a couple hours. I'm at 4429.90Mhz core speed, 103.0bus, and 1.23v under load. That is my 24-7 clock

I think the heat from my cards were what cause the crash though 4.5 not the cpu


----------



## Blatsz32

if someone could tell me how I take a screen shot of bios I could post setting..I don't have a camera so thats not an option, lol


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> custom water cooling. the voltage is off on CPU-z..at load it was 1.28. It ended up not being stable for a long tim. It crashed on me while playing bf3 for a couple hours. I'm at 4429.90Mhz core speed, 103.0bus, and 1.23v under load. That is my 24-7 clock
> I think the heat from my cards were what cause the crash though 4.5 not the cpu


Haha that info sounds more kosher. Still very nice.


----------



## toyopl

K, thanks for help guys, went into Bios and picked Memory Frequency, chose it manually to 1600mhz.
Now it runs nice 804mhz in cpuz.
Great forum for members of this motherboard, nice a quick info.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> if someone could tell me how I take a screen shot of bios I could post setting..I don't have a camera so thats not an option, lol


should be "Take a screenshot" option in bios (make sure you have a usb flash drive in)


----------



## Omnicurse

Alright, my build is finally done, i have a few pics but not many with great detail. I spent 70% of my time on the cable management, I will eventually switch to a WC loop because i want to see that pretty number 5.0GHz.

This board can handle pretty much anything you throw at it. The only concern i have is the TUF fans. I can't imagine the lifespan on those things being that long, so i all i hope for is that Asus can replace them even if it costs something.


----------



## darkphantom

I think there is a screenshot option in the UEFI iirc, just need to plug in a USB?


----------



## darkphantom

Figured it out gents, if you have the intel network icontrol on, disable it! it slows your upload speeds TREMENDOUSLY!


----------



## toyopl

I turned my Assist Fans off, they're just too loud, actually they're more annoying than loud with the sound that they make.
Moving from Sager gaming laptops for past 6 years to my first desktop I didn't know what to expect as far as noise desktops make.

Well I put everything into Obsidian 550d, Sabertooth z77, evga gtx 670 ftw, with 4 fans in case, 1 more fan from gpu, and another from Gelid Tranquillo cpu cooler the two assist fans are the loudest part of my computer. With them turned off I pretty much don't hear a thing coming put of my computer.

I'm not big on cooling numbers, if the temp raises few degrees with them off, so be it.


----------



## Zantrill

I don't understand what is up with some peoples mobo fans.. I can not hear mine at all.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Any ideas on what might be causing the slow down? Just did a fresh install as well.


Check your AIsuite...that network thing may help some people but I found that it slows my browser down a bit when I have multiple windows open. the only time I really use it, if I do at all, is when I'm playing BF3 or DLing a torrent.


----------



## Blatsz32

Well I'm a convert...VirtuMVP seems to be working fine for me..in fact on BF3 everything on Ultra, AA off AA defered medium, and blur off..running 75-100fps depending on the fire fight. wait a sec..does the "h" need to be checked off..I may have spoken to soon. Perhaps I don't have it on at all, LOL!!!!!


----------



## cris77

crash?


----------



## Blatsz32

no crash, just no sure it's on..I have it set to have the log in the upper right hand corner and it hasn't shown up at all. BTW, for all those that play BF3..my handle is blatsz32


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Is anyone else having hibernation issues? My computer just doesn't do it. I have the c-states disabled in the bios I'm wondering if thats the issue.
> Every now and then my computer will shut down and then restart 12 seconds later ( during non -used times). My screens stay on and my comp runs. Not that it's a problem its just that I don't have it set up like that in the OS. I want it to hibernate when I'm a sleep.


Try adjusting power settings on your network adapter.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Figured it out gents, if you have the intel network icontrol on, disable it! it slows your upload speeds TREMENDOUSLY!


Dude! This is the biggest pos software in the whole asus package! I was about to reinstall windows after screwing around for an hour not knowing what the hell happened to my upload speed. Started shutting down services and apps, and voila! it was the icontrol garbage. I mean, seriously....who bundles a program with motherboards that actually cripples performance? Only thing I care for is the Thermal Radar, i need to get rid of the other bloatware!


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quick question, what speeds of memory does the ST z77 support? According to the Asus website, it does "4 x DIMM, Max. 32GB, DDR3 1866/1600/1333 MHz Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory"

I remember watching a video saying that the z77 board support 2133+

What is the max OC speed supported?


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> I turned my Assist Fans off, they're just too loud, actually they're more annoying than loud with the sound that they make.
> Moving from Sager gaming laptops for past 6 years to my first desktop I didn't know what to expect as far as noise desktops make.
> Well I put everything into Obsidian 550d, Sabertooth z77, evga gtx 670 ftw, with 4 fans in case, 1 more fan from gpu, and another from Gelid Tranquillo cpu cooler the two assist fans are the loudest part of my computer. With them turned off I pretty much don't hear a thing coming put of my computer.
> I'm not big on cooling numbers, if the temp raises few degrees with them off, so be it.


I agree about the assist fans. They are loud at max, as is most any small fan, but can be quieted easy with thermal monitor. However, i've already had one die on me, less than 1 week old. I'll see if Asus can send me a new one, but probably wont install it. They don't help much in my case anyways.


----------



## Blatsz32

Doesn't the mobo look bettr withut the assist fans. I can see having the exhaust one up by the Northbridge because you can reseal the area but the southbridge one looks ridiculous. Granted I have mine in but I'm going to take it out. It looks silly. I have no need for it. I'm running a custom water loop my temps aren't that high. Besides, what a little fan like that gonna do. it prob has 2cfm......








<---my puppies butt has a higher CFM than these fans do


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> I turned my Assist Fans off, they're just too loud, actually they're more annoying than loud with the sound that they make.
> Moving from Sager gaming laptops for past 6 years to my first desktop I didn't know what to expect as far as noise desktops make.
> Well I put everything into Obsidian 550d, Sabertooth z77, evga gtx 670 ftw, with 4 fans in case, 1 more fan from gpu, and another from Gelid Tranquillo cpu cooler the two assist fans are the loudest part of my computer. With them turned off I pretty much don't hear a thing coming put of my computer.
> I'm not big on cooling numbers, if the temp raises few degrees with them off, so be it.


I really havent noticed them... I have the 550D with the h100 cooler on top with two exhaust fans, one intake fan on bottom with the two intakes in front, and the exhaust in back. Whole thing is quiet and I can barely hear it purr. Then again, I did build a platform on the ground near my desk for the case to sit on... but unless I am using my computer muted, which is never... Then I can't hear the assist fans much at all...


----------



## navit

"my puppies butt has a higher CFM than these fans do"

Thanks fir the morning giggle, from the oil of your pup I bet it does, lol!


----------



## Bobmitch

I have read on other boards, that people have 2133 installed. You just need to configure manually. I purchased these, and XMP worked like a champ!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233248


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> Quick question, what speeds of memory does the ST z77 support? According to the Asus website, it does "4 x DIMM, Max. 32GB, DDR3 1866/1600/1333 MHz Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory"
> I remember watching a video saying that the z77 board support 2133+
> What is the max OC speed supported?


I'm looking at the manual now
there is an entire list of 2133+ rams QVLs
Perhaps you would like to download the manual for a quick check?


----------



## cris77

G.Skill RipjawsZ PC3-19200 2400MHz


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> G.Skill RipjawsZ PC3-19200 2400MHz


I bet those look lovely on the Sabertooth.


----------



## 7tronic

I'm in the club, installing Windows now, can't wait to have a proper tweak with this baby.









\


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> I don' have auto tuning on AI Suite II on SABERTOOTH Z77.
> Fan Xpert 2 and Auto Tune are not for the Sabertooth Z77 series motherboards


Hi all,

Is this statement true about the Sabertooth Z77 *NOT* having AI Suite II, Fan Xpert 2, or Auto Tune?

Thanks,
radar


----------



## navit

yep its true, although you really don't need it with this board.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> Hi all,
> Is this statement true about the Sabertooth Z77 *NOT* having AI Suite II, Fan Xpert 2, or Auto Tune?
> Thanks,
> radar


It does work with AI suite II.


----------



## PA99

Ah yes , just ordered one and just joined up. About time I moved from the qx9650. 3770K to keep it company.. great thread..


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> Ah yes , just ordered one and just joined up. About time I moved from the qx9650. 3770K to keep it company.. great thread..


----------



## bandook

Quick question. Am I missing something or is there no way to control the CPU optional fan? In Thermal Monitor, you get a rpm readout, but no control.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> Quick question. Am I missing something or is there no way to control the CPU optional fan? In Thermal Monitor, you get a rpm readout, but no control.


You can in "Thermal Radar" (i think), click the Fan tab, then click on one of the fans, then "settings"


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> It does work with AI suite II.


Why don't these programs work with the Saber Z77? Is it AI Suite II that give you the "one click" overclocking ability? I'd like to OC, but nothing over the top - don't want to shorten the CPU life too much


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7tronic*
> 
> I'm in the club, installing Windows now, can't wait to have a proper tweak with this baby.


Thats some sharp sleeving, did you do that yourself? I've never tried it and I realy want to sleeve cables. It just looks cleaner. Do tell how or where you got them. I'd like to get a Sabertooth motif, maybe black/tan sleeves or Black and drab ( military ) green

Concerning the AI Suite. there are some options that are not available to Sabertooth owners that are exclusive to the Vgene..On that note. When I went to update the software, I DLed it from ASUS Maximus page. The Maximus and the other boards have some really tweaked out software. They pay up the butt for it though


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> Why don't these programs work with the Saber Z77? Is it AI Suite II that give you the "one click" overclocking ability? I'd like to OC, but nothing over the top - don't want to shorten the CPU life too much


Try the OC option in the bios. It will give you a nice, stable, not to life draining on your cpu over clock. It seems to tweak your memory as well. If you want after you've done it play with it a bit. The overclock it does isn't peak. you're able to raise the ratios and you memory frequency a bit..atleast I was. It raised my bus to 103.0 my ratio to 42 and my RAM to 1853..granted my RAM is 1866..so I left my bus at 103, raised my ratio to 43, and raised my memory to 1922..Everything is stable. I ran IBT 4 times and no issues...BF3 stability test:thumb:


----------



## Brutalwood

Hey new owner and just built a brand new system:

Intel i7 3770k
16GB g.Skill
Samsung 830 256GB SSD
Western Digital 1TB HD Black
eVGA 670GTX FTW
750 AX Corsair PSU
Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit
ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Sound Card
Antec P280
Noctua D-14 Cooler

I updated the BIOS and the only thing I changed is the XMP profile for the memory which worked out well. Is there anything else that I need to adjust/disable/enable?

Also I did not use the ASUS disc or any other disc for that matter to install drivers. I installed the latest Intel Chipset / nVidia geforce drivers / Soundcard drivers from their respective website.. Am I missing any other essential software. It seems that the ASUS disc has so many different programs/drivers, do I need or want any of this stuff?

Thank You.


----------



## 7tronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Thats some sharp sleeving, did you do that yourself? I've never tried it and I realy want to sleeve cables. It just looks cleaner. Do tell how or where you got them. I'd like to get a Sabertooth motif, maybe black/tan sleeves or Black and drab ( military ) green
> Concerning the AI Suite. there are some options that are not available to Sabertooth owners that are exclusive to the Vgene..On that note. When I went to update the software, I DLed it from ASUS Maximus page. The Maximus and the other boards have some really tweaked out software. They pay up the butt for it though


Cheers Blatsz, did it myself using MDPC sleeve & tools. The blue matched my last m.board, I plan to swap it out for this, or maybe olive green as you suggested.

Right now I will be happy to get a AMD driver that will give me decent FPS in eyefinity & xfire.


----------



## navit

Blasts, when you downloaded your updates from the max gene page did probe ll work for you?
That is one of my face for my AMD formula board


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Blasts, when you downloaded your updates from the max gene page did probe ll work for you?
> That is one of my face for my AMD formula board


Yes t did..actually I played with it last night. Cool little utility. Actually everything on the VGene AI-suite worked, even smart fan2. It seems to have be updated (AI suite) AISuite_II_V10229:thumb:. I uninstalled the old one using Advanced Uninstaller (http://download.cnet.com/Advanced-Uninstaller-Pro/3000-2096_4-10069986.html), rebooted then reinstalled the new software.

7tronic, did it take you a long time to sleeve. Seems like a daunting task. I watched a bit of Lutros tutorial and it doesn't look easy at all. Kudos to you for having the patience to sleeve your cables!
Could you tell me what diameter I'd need for my cables. 1/2 or 1/4?


----------



## 7tronic

Took about 12-14 hours all in. The trickiest bit was figuring out how much force is needed to remove the pins from the connectors, after that I found it easy enough. Helps I am an electrician too, been out of that game years but it comes in handy.









Re. Diameter and cable used, I went with this sleeve pack as well as this 10 meter pack of small (in my case blue-choice of colours) sleeving. Thats 40 meters of small sleeving total for the PSU cables-more than enough for my PSU & PCI-e (x2) cables. I took my time and did each cable individually, as in disconnect & sleeve then re-insert to the connector instead of marking & disconnecting all at once. This ensures no mistakes. it would be handy to have a second PSU so that there's no pressure on you to get it done, ergo no mistakes caused by rushing.

With the pin removing tools and sleeving plus delivery-it worked out at about €80.


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> Try the OC option in the bios. It will give you a nice, stable, not to life draining on your cpu over clock. It seems to tweak your memory as well. If you want after you've done it play with it a bit. The overclock it does isn't peak. you're able to raise the ratios and you memory frequency a bit..atleast I was. It raised my bus to 103.0 my ratio to 42 and my RAM to 1853..granted my RAM is 1866..so I left my bus at 103, raised my ratio to 43, and raised my memory to 1922..Everything is stable. I ran IBT 4 times and no issues...BF3 stability test:thumb:


Thanks for the info. I notice that your MAX temps are in the mid to high 70's. Does this concern you at all? What type of CPU cooling are you using? I'm thinking of going with a Corsair H100 because adding 2lbs of weight to my mobo worries me (yes, I know the DH14 is VERY popular, it still bothers me).

Thanks again


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I notice that your MAX temps are in the mid to high 70's. Does this concern you at all? What type of CPU cooling are you using? I'm thinking of going with a Corsair H100 because adding 2lbs of weight to my mobo worries me (yes, I know the DH14 is VERY popular, it still bothers me).
> Thanks again


well heres whats wierd, My ProbeII software is et to warn me when my cpu raches 70c..I got no warning. Also, if you check CoreTemp and Realtemp they are diffrent. I also looked with HWmonitor and thats a diffrent temp. Therefore I'm not sure what to belive. Seeing that the TJMax is 105 I think I'm ok. I'm going to assume my temps are between, at peak temp, betwen 71-79c. Now when I ran my test it didn't stay at 70+ it just kicked in for the first pass at 70+ then settled down to 65-70 mostly staying at the mid to breaching high 60s.

Currently I am using a custom water loop. I think thats the only reason I'm getting good temps on whats considered to be a hot chip. Intel did a great job on the chip but unfortunatly it does run hotter than Sandy. Smaller die higher temps...But the temps are still A LOT lower than my AMD, which idled at 40 sometimes hitting 50..no joke. That was considered normal!!!!!! When I ran stress test I almost had heartattacks. Finally I gave up on AMD before I ended up in the hospital with a stress stroke, lol

the h100 isn'ty a custom water loop but a lot of people on this threadhttp://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet) use it. They're also getting temps below mine at 44ratio overclock..they are also keeping their bus at 100 though. So I think you'll be fine. As long as you get a good chip thats not finiky about voltages, which we all know equalsto high temps, you'll be fine


----------



## neoro

I know its been barely 10mins on Prime
But damm am I excited with my first build
A simple change on the multiplier and Voltage was all I did

Hopefully I can keep it below 75C at 4.6 *_*


Pushing 4.6 on Air by tang_yiming, on Flickr


----------



## Tiktok79

Guys, I have a question. I just recently purchased my Sabertooth Z77. I just purchased the memory below. Was wandering if I would have to make any changes for it to work at those speeds. I am very new to overclocking. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatful!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231456
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL


----------



## navit

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Guys, I have a question. I just recently purchased my Sabertooth Z77. I just purchased the memory below. Was wandering if I would have to make any changes for it to work at those speeds. I am very new to overclocking. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatful!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231456
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL


Xmp setting in bios


----------



## Tiktok79

So being new to this OC field...is there a specific XMP setting it needs to be set to? Are there any other changes that I need to do?


----------



## urbanbuddha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> So being new to this OC field...is there a specific XMP setting it needs to be set to? Are there any other changes that I need to do?


For XMP, it usually depends on your RAM. My ram had a XMP profile. Once I set it up on the BIOS, it automatically read the profile on the RAM and set the corresponding settings.


----------



## Rinji07

.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rinji07*
> 
> Hey Guys can anyone tell me if the V6 GT cpu cooler from CM will fit onto this board with the thermal armor that it has? I Expect a few ram slots to be covered.
> Case:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139007
> MB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821
> GPU : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130781
> CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501
> RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231489
> Cooler : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103089


I can't tell you for sure on this board but my previous build X58 Sabertooth I have the CoolerMaster V6 GT and have all six slots filled with 24 GB Corsair Vengeance RAM. It gets very close but didn't block it.

If the layout is similar to this Z77 Sabertooth mobo, your golden. From what I can tell it looks exactly the same layout CPU socket to RAM slots ratio.


----------



## Rinji07

.


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guys how is this board i realy like it but i wish it had the debug light code on it the thing the show you cpu temp or aror code
no clear c mos bo restart or power on on the board it like it missing a few things


----------



## thepayne

My thoughts exactly. I would expect at least ob power and reset for the price. I have one but am going to upgrade to EVGA Z77 FTW.


----------



## kmg12321

hey guys, just found this forum as i obtained a cheap brand new sabertooth z77 from a guy in the middle east, and i am going to build a system on it with parts i have laying around at work that arent going to be used

motherboard: sabertooth z77 (obviously







)
cpu: i7 3770 (dont want to OC with this machine)
cpu cooler: thermaltake frio
ram 16gb corsair xms3 1600mhz
hdd: 2x2tb wd green media drives 1x1tb wd black main drive
case: antec 900 v2
psu antec gs800
gpu: gtx 580

my specific question is:

will the thermaltake frio cover any of the ram slots making them unusable as i have 4x4gb sticks and want to keep the thermal armor at all cost but no water cooling


----------



## Blatsz32

there is a CMOS switch in the back. I do belive it resets the bios.It above the USB3.0 ports


----------



## Blatsz32

Bios settings for 4429mhz OC[
URL=http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2472839/width/600/height/450]







[/URL]


----------



## greg1184

Just got the motherboard; feel free to add me. I look forward to building a rig with it. I am waiting for a couple of other components to come.

I like how the board is a neutral color so I can go with whatever theme I want. I am thinking a mixed blue/red theme.

I will have pics of the build soon.


----------



## Bobmitch

Everyone...new bios for the board released today:

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1206.zip

Release Notes

[ 1206 ]

1. Improve Improve system stability.
2. Improve memory compatibility.
3. Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.


----------



## KingKwentyne

My board came in yesterday... but is on the returns list cause there are a ton of accessories missing... The dust covers for the pci and pci-e slots and a bunch of stuff. Should be getting the new one on Tuesday hopefully. Will have pics up and also a work log on my build.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Everyone...new bios for the board released today:
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1206.zip
> Release Notes
> 
> [ 1206 ]
> 
> 1. Improve Improve system stability.
> 2. Improve memory compatibility.
> 3. Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.


Ty for the heads up on the new BIOS update BOB...but, please make that a link to the source next time instead of a direct download. Just for safety reasons. +1 rep for helping out our community
<<


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Ty for the heads up on the new BIOS update BOB...but, please make that a link to the source next time instead of a direct download. Just for safety reasons. +1 rep for helping out our community
> <<


It came straight from Asus that way...I wish I had another link...glad to help.

Flashed mine...all good!


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Everyone...new bios for the board released today:
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1206.zip
> Release Notes
> 
> [ 1206 ]
> 
> 1. Improve Improve system stability.
> 2. Improve memory compatibility.
> 3. Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.


After I flashed the new bios I'm having problems with booting up at all. I've even flashed back to 1015 driver. I've tried hard boot hoping to reset.

It keeps asking me to please enter set up to recover BIOS settings press F1 to run set up.

Edited to add I reset to default values and it let me boot using 1015. I'm not giving up yet to get 1206 to load.









Got it to work after going back to defaults and running through the F1 to run set up and saved changes in BIOS then rebooted. On 1206 driver.


----------



## PA99

I've been thinking. The new board needs a matt black home to live in. Contemplating the Corsair Obsidian 800d. Anything better out there? Didn't realise it was a few years old now. Looked at mountain mods but not really bothered with the prices , the waiting or the import duty.. Few suggestions would be good. Forgive me if this is just a bit off topic


----------



## navit

So how is the new bios? Anything really new but the specs?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> So how is the new bios? Anything really new but the specs?


Nothing noticeable on mine, just had to set everything back from default and runs the same as far as I notice.

What are safe temps for OC on a 3750K, I have mine at a small boost of 4.1MHz and the temps only get to 58C playing 64 player 1000 ticket maps of BF3 on ultra settings (amazing even though im terrible btw)....I guess the old AMD in me gets nervous around 60C but the tjmax on these is 105C. Will it be worth it to push it more and if so what temps are ideal?


----------



## urbanbuddha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Nothing noticeable on mine, just had to set everything back from default and runs the same as far as I notice.
> What are safe temps for OC on a 3750K, I have mine at a small boost of 4.1MHz and the temps only get to 58C playing 64 player 1000 ticket maps of BF3 on ultra settings (amazing even though im terrible btw)....I guess the old AMD in me gets nervous around 60C but the tjmax on these is 105C. Will it be worth it to push it more and if so what temps are ideal?


Create a checklist of features you would like to see in a case, then have a budget.

Ask yourself:
- Do I need a side window
- What about the air flow I want (front, side, bottom, back, and top fans)
- Water cool or not water cool
- Single GPU vs. Multi
- Top/Bottom mount PSU

Then apply your budget -/+10% and see what fits.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> I've been thinking. The new board needs a matt black home to live in. Contemplating the Corsair Obsidian 800d. Anything better out there? Didn't realise it was a few years old now. Looked at mountain mods but not really bothered with the prices , the waiting or the import duty.. Few suggestions would be good. Forgive me if this is just a bit off topic


I think anything under 80C under load should be good. If you're really paranoid, do a marathon stress test overnight and see if its stable.


----------



## Seltox

I got my Sabertooth Z77 2 days ago, and loving it. Here's a quick snap of my case right now (Terrible photo, had to use my phone and my room has bad lighting)


Love the board. It's close enough to double the cost any of my other motherboards ever cost me (I always went cheap with the motherboard, got the bare features I needed, nothing more), and I was just amazed at all the extra's and stuff that came with it.

I've just got one problem though. Not sure if it's to do with the motherboard or GTX670, but i'm guessing motherboard.. I run two monitors, the primary via a HDMI cable, and a secondary via DVI. If only the HDMI cable is plugged in, the primary HDMI monitor shows up all the POST/BIOS/Windows loading stuff.. But if the secondary DVI monitor is plugged in as well, then it seems to take priority, and the primary HDMI monitor only 'activates' on the Windows login screen. It's getting on my nerves - I hate using the BIOS on my secondary screen


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Nothing noticeable on mine, just had to set everything back from default and runs the same as far as I notice.
> What are safe temps for OC on a 3750K, I have mine at a small boost of 4.1MHz and the temps only get to 58C playing 64 player 1000 ticket maps of BF3 on ultra settings (amazing even though im terrible btw)....I guess the old AMD in me gets nervous around 60C but the tjmax on these is 105C. Will it be worth it to push it more and if so what temps are ideal?


I have my bios settng posted for a 4429.something overclock. Temps peak at 75c during an IBT run but flatten out to 65-68c. When playing BF3, same setting as you for 2hours+ i usually see 58c max temps. Currently I have mine now OC, LLC on auto, with offset+ voltage at 0.070, at 4.5..Stable. same results as above.

Did some reading on other threads and seems that LLC manually set to 50% is the normal standard whnen overclocking ..but I also heard the constant voltage boost given to your cpu through LLC ( which lowers Vdroop) isn't good for the life span of the chip...so..I set it to auto.I thnk I got lucky at got a well built chip. I don't have the nuggets to do it but I think my chip can go to 4.7. I did get to windows at 4692. ( BCLK 103, ratio 45).But when I ran IBT it crashed, which prob means it needed more voltage. I'm not willing to suicide run my chip..

Check my profile I think the pictures of my setting are there in my gallery


----------



## SPMOkc73

I ran IBT 10x on high @ 4.4MHz (all default just 44 multiplier) and never went above 67C on any core, I love this intel stuff...


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seltox*
> 
> I got my Sabertooth Z77 2 days ago, and loving it. Here's a quick snap of my case right now (Terrible photo, had to use my phone and my room has bad lighting)
> 
> Love the board. It's close enough to double the cost any of my other motherboards ever cost me (I always went cheap with the motherboard, got the bare features I needed, nothing more), and I was just amazed at all the extra's and stuff that came with it.
> I've just got one problem though. Not sure if it's to do with the motherboard or GTX670, but i'm guessing motherboard.. I run two monitors, the primary via a HDMI cable, and a secondary via DVI. If only the HDMI cable is plugged in, the primary HDMI monitor shows up all the POST/BIOS/Windows loading stuff.. But if the secondary DVI monitor is plugged in as well, then it seems to take priority, and the primary HDMI monitor only 'activates' on the Windows login screen. It's getting on my nerves - I hate using the BIOS on my secondary screen


I have had a amd/580/gigabyte mobo set up and this one the intel/680/z77 and both do what you are describing. I have a 19" monitor attached for sim racing junk and it is the one that always shows boot/bios. Never figured a way around it even if it is disabled when I turn it off, it will be the first to show unitl windows loads then the other monitor pops on.


----------



## Bobmitch

As far as bios flashing. Here is some advice that I was given a long time ago, after I flashed an Asus P5E and it corrupted the bios. Had to do a bios recovery and do it again. Then...had issues with my EVGA E758 board as well. Best advice give to me from Jacob, EVGA's Product Manager. Hopefully it will help you all.

1. The main two methods of flashing bios on the Sabertooth, that I think will work for everyone. Before flashing bios...make sure to re-name the file as per the instructions in the download. In our case it is Z77ST for Sabertooth.
A. You can copy the bios to your hard drive and flash from EZ Flash from your UEFI bios screen
B. Load the file on to a USB flash drive and put in the specified Intel USB 3.0 port

Before you flash the bios...hit F5 to set your machine back to default. Flashing a bios on an overclocked machine, in any way can and may cause not so good things to happen.

If you chose A...simply search your hard drive for the file...EZ flash will ask..."Do you want to read this file" say YES...flash takes place
If you chose B and have the file on a flash drive...make sure the file is on the root directory of the drive. Insert into Intel USB 3.0 port and press the bios flash button until it blinks. Once you see blinking...release the button...the blinking will stop once the bios is flashed.

Now that your bios is flashed...SHUT DOWN your machine. Clear the CMOS (on Asus boards, done with jumper...wish it had the feature my EVGA board had...red button by my Firewire port)....once CMOS is cleared...you can start back up...and re-do your settings.

One caviat that got me into trouble once...I saved my bios setup in a profile from one bios. When I got back onto setup...tried to load the profile and it wouldn't let my machine run...seems that some memory timings and a few other things were changed from one bios to another...I recommend just re-doing trom scratch. I take snapshots of mine, in case I forgot something...

This is the safest, maybe not easiest, way to flash a bios with no issues. I hope this little tutorial helps...if you have any questions...I will try to answer them...

By the way...Asus posted the 1206 bios update on the product page as well...

http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


----------



## Blatsz32

well said Bob, ty for tutorial.


----------



## Kamahl85

Me too:




(Low quality image due to ipod)


----------



## sew333

Guys.
Read a little bit on this but information seems somewhat sketchy. From what I've gathered so far, USB3 and SATA3 in turbo mode is leeching bandwidth from PCIE lanes from 16x to 8x, in old P55 boards.

Look:

http://en.ocworkbench.com/tech/gigabyte-p55-board-with-turbo-sata3usb3-0-reduces-graphics-card-pcie-bus-to-8x-when-usb3-0-is-enabled/

or:

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=829003

or

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1533506

PLEASE HELP! And i want to know, that Sabertooth Z77 have the same problem? Or maybe no?


----------



## Blatsz32

I do belive alot of the Panther Point chipsets are like that. The response that Gigabyte gave is on point " But the true fact is, there's no identical performance drop comparing with a PCI-e x16 to a PCI-e x8 graphics." When running a single card solution your PCI lane will be at x16. But when running a dual card solution it it does slpit into 2-8x slots. Currently I am running in that configuration and I have no issues at all. In fact my x8 is still better than my dual x16 on my old AMD..

I would sacrifice a x8 loss while running dual config on my PCI lanes to be able to use SATA3 and USB3.0...there is NO Graphical Performance loss. Buy whatever z77 board you want, or if you still have a 775chip, buy the P55...but if you buy the Sabertooth you'll be very happy. Everyone else is.

And remember, I'm not positive how it works but this is PCI 3.0..it's a wider pci lane.

And geez dude, those posts are super old..2009:doh:


----------



## sew333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> I do belive alot of the Panther Point chipsets are like that. The response that Gigabyte gave is on point " But the true fact is, there's no identical performance drop comparing with a PCI-e x16 to a PCI-e x8 graphics." When running a single card solution your PCI lane will be at x16. But when running a dual card solution it it does slpit into 2-8x slots. Currently I am running in that configuration and I have no issues at all. In fact my x8 is still better than my dual x16 on my old AMD..
> I would sacrifice a x8 loss while running dual config on my PCI lanes to be able to use SATA3 and USB3.0...there is NO Graphical Performance loss. Buy whatever z77 board you want, or if you still have a 775chip, buy the P55...but if you buy the Sabertooth you'll be very happy. Everyone else is.
> And remember, I'm not positive how it works but this is PCI 3.0..it's a wider pci lane.
> And geez dude, those posts are super old..2009:doh:


ok but i want to know that when i use turbo mode in SATA3 \ USB3 in Sabertooth Z77, PCiex will be decreased from 16x to 8x or not?


----------



## cris77

hi all,
I have downloaded ASUS AI Suite II V1.02.29 and when I overclocked in turbo V my 3770k to 4.4GHz ok!! but,
when I want to restore the default settings in the software is not responding to commands and let the processor to 4.4 GHz
my bios 1206v
Bye Cris


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urbanbuddha*
> 
> Create a checklist of features you would like to see in a case, then have a budget.
> Ask yourself:
> - Do I need a side window
> - What about the air flow I want (front, side, bottom, back, and top fans)
> - Water cool or not water cool
> - Single GPU vs. Multi
> - Top/Bottom mount PSU
> Then apply your budget -/+10% and see what fits.
> I think anything under 80C under load should be good. If you're really paranoid, do a marathon stress test overnight and see if its stable.


Cheers , Went with the 800d. CPU is on a sealed water unit for now. This gives me the option and the push to move to all water before the end of year. 570's in SLI. Much reading to do. Think this case will keep me going for years. Probably


----------



## navit

Reset in the bios.


----------



## kmg12321

hey guys, just had my sabertooth board delivered and it looks awesome but i am not a fan of watercooling could please list me some air coolers that fit, the zalman 3 fan one looks awesome i have 4x4gb corsair xms3 ram since i know height is an issue


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sew333*
> 
> ok but i want to know that when i use turbo mode in SATA3 \ USB3 in Sabertooth Z77, PCiex will be decreased from 16x to 8x or not?


What card/s are you going to be running? I honestly don't know about this issue, but even seeing it just now, it doesn't concern me one bit. If you put in a 3.0 card, running at x8 is the exact same as running as x16 2.0.

I'm really in love me thinks, with this board. It just looks so damn sharp and classy, but it's so flexible on themes, if you are in to making it look pretty







I'm really considering doing a military theme with it. I may have to get a new case now though. Not sure how it would look with the skeleton.







But I think black/gray/white cammo theme would look badass.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmg12321*
> 
> hey guys, just had my sabertooth board delivered and it looks awesome but i am not a fan of watercooling could please list me some air coolers that fit, the zalman 3 fan one looks awesome i have 4x4gb corsair xms3 ram since i know height is an issue


I don't know what fits, but what I'd rather hear is what does not fit. I havent seen anyone say exactly what will not fit, and think it would be good to keep a running list if anyone finds one that won't work at all. I'm not sure why any cooler wouldn't fit. The thermal armor doesn't come up any higher than low profile memory would. You can see in my pics ^.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> hi all,
> I have downloaded ASUS AI Suite II V1.02.29 and when I overclocked in turbo V my 3770k to 4.4GHz ok!! but,
> when I want to restore the default settings in the software is not responding to commands and let the processor to 4.4 GHz
> my bios 1206v
> Bye Cris


my persona opinion, don't overclock your chip in the windows environment, stick with the bios. find an overrclock that you are comfy with and run with it..


----------



## ToastedApple

Finished my build a few weeks ago and thought everything was running fine. Recently I descovered some lag while playing Diablo III when there was a lot going on on the screen. So I went into the bios to check if there was a wrong configuration or something with my GPU (GTX 670, really shouldn't be any lag - I also have intel ivy bridge i5 3570k). So in Onboard Devices Configurations I find this: ""PCI Express X16_3 slot (black) bandwidth". After looking in manual I find out that "x16_3 slot" is a PCI 2.0 slot. But I inserted the gpu in the top, beige pci slot which is stated as a 3.0 slot in the manual and the recommended place to insert gpu if you only have one.. Why does it say it's a pci 2.0 slot in the bios? And why can I only choose x1 and x4 mode? shouldn't I be able to choose x8 and x16 mode as well since it's a 3.0 card? Thanks for your help guys and sorry if my English wasn't perfect.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastedApple*
> 
> Finished my build a few weeks ago and thought everything was running fine. Recently I descovered some lag while playing Diablo III when there was a lot going on on the screen. So I went into the bios to check if there was a wrong configuration or something with my GPU (GTX 670, really shouldn't be any lag - I also have intel ivy bridge i5 3570k). So in Onboard Devices Configurations I find this: ""PCI Express X16_3 slot (black) bandwidth". After looking in manual I find out that "x16_3 slot" is a PCI 2.0 slot. But I inserted the gpu in the top, beige pci slot which is stated as a 3.0 slot in the manual and the recommended place to insert gpu if you only have one.. Why does it say it's a pci 2.0 slot in the bios? And why can I only choose x1 and x4 mode? shouldn't I be able to choose x8 and x16 mode as well since it's a 3.0 card? Thanks for your help guys and sorry if my English wasn't perfect.


That is only for the lower slot, the setting you are looking for to control PCIe_1 is found under *Advanced > System Agent Configuration > NB PCIe Configuratio*n...if you select Gen3 there it is 16x.


----------



## csschrot

Hello everyone.

Just wanted to jump in a say Thank You to all. I will be building my first computer but was a little worried about using this motherboard. Being a first timer didn't want to get overwhelmed or screw something up. However after reading all, yes all, these pages my mind was put at ease. This looks to be a great community with a ton of support. I look forward to my first build and having this MB as a base to start learning to OC. (Hope i have the shortcuts right). Now the long wait for things to arrive and start the build. Still short the video card (asus 670 top) but I think it will be worth the wait.

Thank again guys and i look forward to bouncing ideas off the community.

Corsair 500R, Sabertooth Z77, Corsair AX650, i5-3570k, Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR31600, Intel 520 SSD 120GB, CM Hyper 212 EVO, waiting on Asus GTX670 DC2T. Hope this is a good start.

csschrot

If this is the wrong spot for my first post please feel free to move.


----------



## SPMOkc73

The Asus Rep and NewEgg put together some nice vidoes that helped me pass the time until it arrived.





You should be happy with that setup with 670, from what I understand it performs real close to the 680 and with the z77 and 3570k, I couldnt ask for a better gaming rig for the money.


----------



## Samurai707

Hey everyone, having some troubles installing my Sabertooth. I got everything up and running, but my LAN connection doesn't seem to be working. It's showing as connected on my desktop, but it took me about 5-10 minutes to load up the OCN homepage...
All my drivers were installed by the disc, haven't updated anything because, well, I can't get on the internet : \
Any suggestions on what I should do?


----------



## microc

it the intel bloatware that was installed. us msconfig and look for the intel iteams that are running when you turn the right one off that was installed with the network software your speed will go back to normal..the fix and right thing to turn off ws posted about 10 pages back.


----------



## Samurai707

I only installed the driver in the package. As far as my search, msconfig, and program files shows, my only intel items installed are my usb 3.0 extensible host controller and Intel Rapid Storage tech.

Edit: And chipset, of course.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> Hey everyone, having some troubles installing my Sabertooth. I got everything up and running, but my LAN connection doesn't seem to be working. It's showing as connected on my desktop, but it took me about 5-10 minutes to load up the OCN homepage...
> All my drivers were installed by the disc, haven't updated anything because, well, I can't get on the internet : \
> Any suggestions on what I should do?


Is the network iControl feature on? If so, turn it off. Took me a while to figure out why my uploads were at 10% of where they should be.


----------



## Samurai707

I didn't install the Asus Suite, so I didn't install the inetwork or icontrol app.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I didn't install the Asus Suite, so I didn't install the inetwork or icontrol app.


Sorry if this is too obvious, but did you try rebooting your router/modem? If your on a network, try static ip? Sounds like somthing is wonky on your network.


----------



## sew333

Tommorow i will plug my new pc with:

Asus Sabertooth Z77
I7 3770K
2x4gb ram DDR3 Corsair Vengeance 1600 LP White Arctic 1.35
Asus Gtx 680
Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 1000W


----------



## mosi

-deleted- meh should read whole page before replying -_-


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> I've been thinking. The new board needs a matt black home to live in. Contemplating the Corsair Obsidian 800d. Anything better out there? Didn't realise it was a few years old now. Looked at mountain mods but not really bothered with the prices , the waiting or the import duty.. Few suggestions would be good. Forgive me if this is just a bit off topic


it's whatever you want my man! I went with the obsidian 550d because its a tad smaller and fits everything just nice. I can mod a side window if I really wanted to, but it has top, bottom, front, back and side fan mounts. Can mount 10 fans in there if I really want to... I also have crossfire gpus that fit just fine and the watercooled corsair h100. I like how the mounts for the 3.5" bays come out so I have TONS of extra room just mounting my SSDs other places... Not to mention I love how the front door swings open both ways and the entire case has thin sound foam on the inside. I can't be happier with it.


----------



## iARDAs

When i install my rig first thing i will do is

* update the bios to the latest

* Disable onboard audio

* Set the Hard disk method to AHCI.

i will than install a brand new copy of Windows 7.

Is there anything else I need to do on the UEFI?

I will start OCing the CPU only after i get my computer up and running with the latest drivers and etc...


----------



## Blatsz32

nope, sounds like you are on the right road.

i noticed some wierd stuff with my network as well. I disabled intels internet link thing in the bios, made sure that network stack was off and then disabled Asus network thing as well. But unlike the other poster, I'm having download issues, my upload speeds ar higher than they've ever been. Last night I went t o the INTEL site and downloaded their ethernet driver. Seeems to be ok now.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> nope, sounds like you are on the right road.
> i noticed some wierd stuff with my network as well. I disabled intels internet link thing in the bios, made sure that network stack was off and then disabled Asus network thing as well. But unlike the other poster, I'm having download issues, my upload speeds ar higher than they've ever been. Last night I went t o the INTEL site and downloaded their ethernet driver. Seeems to be ok now.


What driver did you download from Intel? When I insert the 82579V adapter, I only get Win server 2003 drivers...

Found them under Ethernet Controllers....good to know they were there. I install just the drivers...no Intel software, etc. They usually take care of themselves. First set of drivers from Asus hindered my upload speed...these opened them up. Intel says software version 17.1, but the drivers are 11.16.96.0


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> Sorry if this is too obvious, but did you try rebooting your router/modem? If your on a network, try static ip? Sounds like somthing is wonky on your network.


My internet was working fine earlier yesterday when I used my P67 board, as well as my two roommates using the wireless now, and my tablet typing this all to you guys : \

In safe mode with networking enabled, It seems to go on and off for how fast the pages want to load...I can't get speedtest.net to work... but after taking a little bit to load OCN, I loaded my subscriptions page pretty fast, but then navigating to another page in the thread is taking about 3-5 minutes









All my drives were deleted and formatted clean before my W7 install, and i reinstalled twice. In the networking section it was suggested that I possibly buy a PCIE networking card... What do you all think?
The other thread I'm posting in is here in the networking & security section of the forums.


----------



## JollyMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JollyMan*
> 
> Having an issue with shutting down my comp. When i go to shutdown the fans stay on. I have to hold down the power button to get the cop to go ff. Then when i reboot it says "overclocking failed go to bios and adjust settings", or something to that effect. This is after i just passed 8 hours of prime95 blend testing with no errors. I went into bios, didnt change anything with overclock, I disabled the option to make the fans run after shutting down. and rebooted. Tried shutting down from windows again and still the fans run.
> I have seen some of you guys with a similar issue, any solution for the problem yet? I am running 0906 bios. Will updating bios fix the issue?
> Thanks


Turns out this was an issue with the OS. I updated bios to 1015 and still no successful shutdown. I then decided I would try the windows 8 preview install and see if i am able to shutdown that way, success! Turns out there is some sort of compatability issue with vista and the sabertooth z77. Upgraded to Windows 7, which i probably should have done a long time ago, and it shuts down properly. I am having an issue with it waking from sleep though. I thought I saw something about this issue earlier in the thread. Anyone remember? Not that big of a deal, seeing as how I don't usually use sleep mode since it shuts down properly now.


----------



## Lord 666

@Iardas - was the CNPS11X able to fit on this board?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord 666*
> 
> @Iardas - was the CNPS11X able to fit on this board?


I will only be able to install my board on July 3rd bro. I will be going on a vacation and pick up some of the componenets for my computer.

I will not install the small motherboard fan and i am sure my CNPS11x will fit the board though. If not, this will suck.

Edit : Appereantly it will not fit. Which sux.

A newegg reviewer said that

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118091

Pros: Well built.

Cons: Does not fit over thermal armor on Asus sabertooth z77


----------



## iARDAs

SO now i will have to change my CPU cooler.

Can anyone lead me towards one?


----------



## Lord 666

VT-d and ESXi5.0

Have a special project that I need to start ASAP for a client. Basically start a temporary production environment either using ESXi 5.0 or Workstation 8 while the real production servers are ordered. Just so happens I have the Sabertooth z77 still sitting new in a box and going to use it as a base.

So basically my questions are;

1. I just ordered the 3770 (non-k) this morning specifically for VT-d. Has anyone confirmed that with the latest bios and a non-K IB cpu that VT-d is exposed and not just VT-x?

2. Has anyone installed ESXi 5.0 with the Sabertooth yet? The Intel nic should do well and everything else.

3. Looking to max out the memory at 32gb, but the QVL memory is way too expensive. Looking at Corsair Vengence 32gb kit (4*8gb) of 1600 (CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10) or 1866 (CMZ32GX3M4X1866C10). Neither are on the QVL, but do not see why there would be an issue. Thats a big chunk of change less than the 32gb kit on the QVL.

Thanks


----------



## Lord 666

iARDAS and everyone else... which CPU cooler has fit the best with the armor?

PS - Thanks iARDAS as I only saw the CPNS 11x Performa on Newegg, but not the extreme version with the feedback.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord 666*
> 
> iARDAS and everyone else... which CPU cooler has fit the best with the armor?
> PS - Thanks iARDAS as I only saw the CPNS 11x Performa on Newegg, but not the extreme version with the feedback.


Sorry...I respond to one thread and it gets posted with the wrong quote...


----------



## jmrios82

Since you guys are talking about cpu coolers in the last posts, I think that would be very usefull to list the coolers that are confirmed to fit with our Sabertooths, something like a list in the OP, or a spreadsheet..
Noctua NH D14 here, no problems with the thermal armor







, the only problem would be using memory with tall heatspreaders, a known issue with the Noctua..


----------



## Samurai707

My H100 fits perfectly


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmrios82*
> 
> Since you guys are talking about cpu coolers in the last posts, I think that would be very usefull to list the coolers that are confirmed to fit with our Sabertooths, something like a list in the OP, or a spreadsheet..
> Noctua NH D14 here, no problems with the thermal armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , the only problem would be using memory with tall heatspreaders, a known issue with the Noctua..


A list of products would be welcomed. Normally every LA1155 compatible fan should fit but the thermal armor might ruin it for some.

I will still take my chance with the Zalman CNPS11x and see if it will fit, but if not i will either go with Noctua or H80...


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> My H100 fits perfectly


Just to throw it out there I know MANY people who have the H100 for this board and love it. Including me.


----------



## iARDAs

How will i install my H100 though? I mean wont i have to take off the top fan of my case?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> How will i install my H100 though? I mean wont i have to take off the top fan of my case?


If your using the case I see in your profile, you could even mount the radiator to your window... It can be mounted anywhere that two 120mm fans would fit side by side. However, if you went with the H80 or lower you could just use your rear exhaust and a single fan or a push/pull setup.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> If your using the case I see in your profile, you could even mount the radiator to your window... It can be mounted anywhere that two 120mm fans would fit side by side. However, if you went with the H80 or lower you could just use your rear exhaust and a single fan or a push/pull setup.


Hmmm I knew about the H80 and knew that it could be installed on the rear exhaust but i had never thought about the H100 and the side panel.

Thank you

+rep


----------



## Tiktok79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> When i install my rig first thing i will do is
> 
> * update the bios to the latest
> 
> * Disable onboard audio
> 
> * Set the Hard disk method to AHCI.
> 
> i will than install a brand new copy of Windows 7.
> 
> Is there anything else I need to do on the UEFI?
> 
> I will start OCing the CPU only after i get my computer up and running with the latest drivers and etc...


Just curious as to why set the Hard Disk to AHCI? Just want to know if this is something I should do as well. =/


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Just curious as to why set the Hard Disk to AHCI? Just want to know if this is something I should do as well. =/


Cause i will have an SSD as a bootable disk and HDD as storage.

I was adviced to do so when using an SSD.


----------



## Tiktok79

Ah ok thanks, good to know!


----------



## bandook

Another bonus with this board is that ahci is enabled by default!


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> Another bonus with this board is that ahci is enabled by default!


ah is it

I did not know that 

cant wait to get that motherboard into my hands.


----------



## Zhent

Does anyone have a 2x8GB memory kit currently running on this board with no issues? There are no 2x8GB kits listed in the QVL, their only way to make it to 16G on the board is 4x4, which is just silly.


----------



## Tiktok79

Finally received the good stuff....

Sabertooth Z77 MB
Core i5 3570k Ivy bridge 3.4 (3.8 turbo boost) LGA 1155
Corsair Hydra H100 (with 2x Cougar 120mm fans pushing air out)
16gb Ripjaw X Series PC1600
Cougar 140mm fans as case fans (2x in front by HDD cages, one in bottom, one in rear, 2x in side panel) all pulling air in.
Corsair 500r Case

I am a r00kie to over clocking, never messed it with, normally i would leave everything as is. Can someone tell me what setting i should be changing to bump the CPU speed up a little? As long as i do it once I can continue playing with it until its stable but I just don't know how to begin.


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Finally received the good stuff....
> Sabertooth Z77 MB
> Core i5 3570k Ivy bridge 3.4 (3.8 turbo boost) LGA 1155
> Corsair Hydra H100 (with 2x Cougar 120mm fans pushing air out)
> 16gb Ripjaw X Series PC1600
> Cougar 140mm fans as case fans (2x in front by HDD cages, one in bottom, one in rear, 2x in side panel) all pulling air in.
> Corsair 500r Case
> I am a r00kie to over clocking, never messed it with, normally i would leave everything as is. Can someone tell me what setting i should be changing to bump the CPU speed up a little? As long as i do it once I can continue playing with it until its stable but I just don't know how to begin.


perhaps?
Del > F7 (Advance Mode)
Change profile to XMP if your ram speeds happen to read as 1333 instead of 1600
Bump the multiplier up to 41-42

heheheh have fun!!


----------



## neoro

Hi,
I tried looking into the motherboard Manual however I wasn't able to find any information about how much load can each of the fan sockets are able to take.

Does anyone have any information on this or able to point me to the right page in the manual?

I'm planing to add more fans to my setup and control them from mobo software.
Presently the 4 Pin Fan sockets are shared with 2 fans each.
I am planning to share one of the CPU Fan sockets for an additional Fan on the heat sink.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoro*
> 
> Hi,
> I tried looking into the motherboard Manual however I wasn't able to find any information about how much load can each of the fan sockets are able to take.
> Does anyone have any information on this or able to point me to the right page in the manual?
> I'm planing to add more fans to my setup and control them from mobo software.
> Presently the 4 Pin Fan sockets are shared with 2 fans each.
> I am planning to share one of the CPU Fan sockets for an additional Fan on the heat sink.


You mean you are using splitters? One plug that breaks out to 2 plugs?


----------



## neoro

Yeap, thats correct
I am worried about the load, as I have not come across any documentation on how much can each of these sockets do


----------



## Blatsz32

hmm, I personally think you'll be fine..the interesting thing is how the internal sensors are going to read both fans.


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> hmm, I personally think you'll be fine..the interesting thing is how the internal sensors are going to read both fans.


Thanks!
I keep the fans on the same spec and try to pair them at the same locations so I roughly know whats picking up speed when it hits the heat bump!!


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Finally received the good stuff....
> Sabertooth Z77 MB
> Core i5 3570k Ivy bridge 3.4 (3.8 turbo boost) LGA 1155
> Corsair Hydra H100 (with 2x Cougar 120mm fans pushing air out)
> 16gb Ripjaw X Series PC1600
> Cougar 140mm fans as case fans (2x in front by HDD cages, one in bottom, one in rear, 2x in side panel) all pulling air in.
> Corsair 500r Case
> I am a r00kie to over clocking, never messed it with, normally i would leave everything as is. Can someone tell me what setting i should be changing to bump the CPU speed up a little? As long as i do it once I can continue playing with it until its stable but I just don't know how to begin.


If you truely don't know anything about overclocking yet, then I would suggest just searching the forums. There are TONS of overclocking guides out there that will teach you the basics (which I highly suggest learning before you just start messing with stuff). I wish there were a simple single setting as you suggest to change the cpu speed... but there is not.


----------



## iARDAs

Ok guys I decided to get the Noctua NH-D14 cooler for my Asus Sabertooth Z77

I know that the cooler fits the motherboard but people suggest not to buy high end memories.

I currently have 2 4GB Corsair XMS3 rams

http://www.corsair.com/memory-by-product-family/xms-classic/cmx4gx3m2a1600c9.html

would these have issues being installed to my system with the Noctua Coller on my Asus Z77?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Ok guys I decided to get the Noctua NH-D14 cooler for my Asus Sabertooth Z77
> 
> I know that the cooler fits the motherboard but people suggest not to buy high end memories.
> 
> I currently have 2 4GB Corsair XMS3 rams
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/memory-by-product-family/xms-classic/cmx4gx3m2a1600c9.html
> 
> would these have issues being installed to my system with the Noctua Coller on my Asus Z77?


You should be good to go







That particular memory is not on the qualified vendors list, so you MAY have to just go into the bios and manually set the speed because the mobo might not recognize it.


----------



## gypsyczar

Hi all.

I'm a newbie to this great board. Have finished my build of the Sabertooth with a 2600k. Love it, but have one question.

I have a WD green 1TB drive that I have used in the past as both a boot and data drive (2 partitions). I now boot from a SSD and it works fine. However, if I have the WD 1TB connected to the system in any way&#8230;. USB, eSata, internal brown sata, the system will not boot with the red boot light illuminated even though this drive is not specified in the bios boot order. If I boot the system and then turn the drive on in an external toaster enclosure the system has no problem with it reading and writing either of the partitions. Have it connected at startup and no boot.

Is this a case of bad drive firmware, or is there a possible solution?


----------



## nike23osu

Hey guys first post here but have read pretty much the whole thread. Like my mobo so far but i have an issue....the PCIE16_1 slot for my main graphics card slot will only report any video card i put in it as an x4 card (shows x4 in bios, gpu-z, and cpu-z) if i switch it to the 2nd slot it will read at x8 but still not x16. I have the latest bios and i think i have verified that i have bad PCIE16 slots by trying different cards and both of the 16 slots....anybody else have this issue or seen the issue and agree its the slots on the mobo?


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gypsyczar*
> 
> Hi all.
> I'm a newbie to this great board. Have finished my build of the Sabertooth with a 2600k. Love it, but have one question.
> I have a WD green 1TB drive that I have used in the past as both a boot and data drive (2 partitions). I now boot from a SSD and it works fine. However, if I have the WD 1TB connected to the system in any way&#8230;. USB, eSata, internal brown sata, the system will not boot with the red boot light illuminated even though this drive is not specified in the bios boot order. If I boot the system and then turn the drive on in an external toaster enclosure the system has no problem with it reading and writing either of the partitions. Have it connected at startup and no boot.
> Is this a case of bad drive firmware, or is there a possible solution?


So you have windows installed on the 1tb drive?

So you have windows installed on the 1tb drive? And you want to dual boot? Or just use that drive for data? Or keep the data on it the way it is for some reason?

Best to do a clean format, after backing up what you need, then trying the drive. You probably had it running in ide mode when you installed windows, and now you are trying to use it in ahci mode. If you put the ports back in ide mode, it would probably work fine, but then you have no ahci support for your ssd.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> Hey guys first post here but have read pretty much the whole thread. Like my mobo so far but i have an issue....the PCIE16_1 slot for my main graphics card slot will only report any video card i put in it as an x4 card (shows x4 in bios, gpu-z, and cpu-z) if i switch it to the 2nd slot it will read at x8 but still not x16. I have the latest bios and i think i have verified that i have bad PCIE16 slots by trying different cards and both of the 16 slots....anybody else have this issue or seen the issue and agree its the slots on the mobo?


Have you tried changing it in the BIOS. I know you said it's reading x4 but you made no mention about attempting to change it.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Have you tried changing it in the BIOS. I know you said it's reading x4 but you made no mention about attempting to change it.


I second this post. Seems like sometimes with the Sabertooth all you have to do is manually change things if the board doesn't recognize it. It defaults to the lower just to be "safe".


----------



## nike23osu

What do you mean changing it? the x4 above is non clickable the only thing clickable is the gen which i have at gen3 which shows fine.

here is a pic see how it says the link bus is @x4 3.0 in gpu-z and cpu-z reports link bus at x4, is there an option in the bios hidden that allows me to change x4 x8 and x16?


----------



## nike23osu

forgot the pic sorry


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> What do you mean changing it? the x4 above is non clickable the only thing clickable is the gen which i have at gen3 which shows fine.
> here is a pic see how it says the link bus is @x4 3.0 in gpu-z and cpu-z reports link bus at x4, is there an option in the bios hidden that allows me to change x4 x8 and x16?


i dont see pic


----------



## neoro

I don't own a GPU yet (thanks to the Asus 680 TOp stock levels zzz) however could page 3-29 of the manual help?
It reads something as follows (darn pdf can't be Copied and paste)

X4 mode - PCIex16_3 slot runs at its highest performance support

The Bios screen to get to this can be seen in page 3-28

Let me know if it helps,


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> What do you mean changing it? the x4 above is non clickable the only thing clickable is the gen which i have at gen3 which shows fine.
> here is a pic see how it says the link bus is @x4 3.0 in gpu-z and cpu-z reports link bus at x4, is there an option in the bios hidden that allows me to change x4 x8 and x16?


Well I meant to see if you had changed it to Gen 3. Awhile back I was looking at GPU-z and noticed that it was reading that my card was operating in x4 mode..I checked the bios and found that it was set to run in x16. When I rebooted to windows I ran some GPU tests and found that the card was down-clocking itself Try running some test with gpu-z open, see what happens. Try Kombuster or OCCT. The self test on GPU-z didn't work for me. Mot sure if this article on PCI 3.0 scaling will help understanding the link between your card and Panther Point.http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/

Also I think your card is going to a "rest" mode down scaling and clocking. Once you stat doing somethig intensive it opens up the lanes, switches to correct scaling and up-clocks itself.
Currently GPU_Z is reading on mine, [email protected] I start gaming it goes up to [email protected]


----------



## Bobmitch

Thought you might all want these.

Intel AHCI Drivers (F6) and Rapid Storage Manager 11.2.1006 Released 6-12-2-12

http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=21407


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Also I think your card is going to a "rest" mode down scaling and clocking. Once you stat doing somethig intensive it opens up the lanes, switches to correct scaling and up-clocks itself.
> Currently GPU_Z is reading on mine, [email protected] I start gaming it goes up to [email protected]


That was my initial thoughts, but in his picture he is running a stress test. I'm confused. Wonder if he could set it to pci-e 2.0, if that would show x16. If so, that is more than enough for that card.


----------



## Bobmitch

I have a GTX 580 SC and when I run GPU-Z, initially it tells me that I am running PCIe 2.0. Then, when the card goes into rest mode...shows PCIe 1.1. The PCIe lanes on the board are dynamic and will ramp up and down, depending on use. I had never seen that before, but found everything normal once the card kicks into 3D mode. With the 6xx series...the card is also more dynamic. I use an EVGA and they even posted a video on how the 600 series works with Precision and dynamic clocking:


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gypsyczar*
> 
> Hi all.
> I'm a newbie to this great board. Have finished my build of the Sabertooth with a 2600k. Love it, but have one question.
> I have a WD green 1TB drive that I have used in the past as both a boot and data drive (2 partitions). I now boot from a SSD and it works fine. However, if I have the WD 1TB connected to the system in any way&#8230;. USB, eSata, internal brown sata, the system will not boot with the red boot light illuminated even though this drive is not specified in the bios boot order. If I boot the system and then turn the drive on in an external toaster enclosure the system has no problem with it reading and writing either of the partitions. Have it connected at startup and no boot.
> Is this a case of bad drive firmware, or is there a possible solution?


couple thoughts:
1) maybe your old WD HDD has Windows installed on it and your BIOS is set to boot from it before it boots from the new SSD. The windows installed on the WD was not set up for AHCI and, therefore, it will not boot (google "change to ahci after install windows 7" for a fix for this).

2) check your BIOS and make sure your SSD is set to boot BEFORE your other HDDs

hope this helps...


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Well I meant to see if you had changed it to Gen 3. Awhile back I was looking at GPU-z and noticed that it was reading that my card was operating in x4 mode..I checked the bios and found that it was set to run in x16. When I rebooted to windows I ran some GPU tests and found that the card was down-clocking itself Try running some test with gpu-z open, see what happens. Try Kombuster or OCCT. The self test on GPU-z didn't work for me. Mot sure if this article on PCI 3.0 scaling will help understanding the link between your card and Panther Point.http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/
> Also I think your card is going to a "rest" mode down scaling and clocking. Once you stat doing somethig intensive it opens up the lanes, switches to correct scaling and up-clocks itself.
> Currently GPU_Z is reading on mine, [email protected] I start gaming it goes up to [email protected]


I would buy that if my card showed as x16 (like my friends does just above the gen3 3 selector in the bios) and showed what i have above when it wasnt being used. However mine does not show x16 in bios only x4 in pcie16_1 slot and it does show as x8 in pcie16_2 slot which is correct since that is x8 for sli...that right there coupled with my friends 670 reporting x16 in bios in slot 1 on his sabertooth.

I contacted ASUS for an RMA, first time ive had to use it i hope they dont disappoint, id really like to keep my sabertooth but i will not settle for a broken slot giving me less than the supposed speed im supposed to have.


----------



## nike23osu

I have also put in a 5870 vid card in the slot (it doesnt do like the new nvidia card and always reported x16) and it does the same, x4 in slot 1 and x8 in slot 2. I am 100% sure the mobo is faulty at this point.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> I have also put in a 5870 vid card in the slot (it doesnt do like the new nvidia card and always reported x16) and it does the same, x4 in slot 1 and x8 in slot 2. I am 100% sure the mobo is faulty at this point.


You have to remember...I have a Fermi...so it shows PCIe 2.0, but here is the GPU-Z before the card goes into rest mode



Is your card running in X1 or X4 mode in bios? Mine says X1


----------



## navit

For comparision sake:


----------



## paco19

Hi,

I just setup a new computer and i have a issue with i can't seem to figure out what is causing the issue. When i power on the computer it stays on for about 10 seconds then shut's off and continues to to do this cycle unless i turn off the power supply and also fans,video card fans turn on. I notice that the CPU LED is on when the computer is on. I have tested the power supply with a power supply tester and issues.

My setup is:

Power Supply: Corsair TX750

RAM: Sector 5 DDR3 133Mhz 8GB( 2 x 4GB sticks)

Video Card: GEFORCE GTX 500 series

CPU: i5 Intel

I would appreciate any suggestions as i am close to exchanging the mother board. Thanks in advance.


----------



## bandook

It's most likely your ram that is preventing the post. (seeing as how it's only 133mhz







) I kid. Anyways, you just need to hit to press and hold the MemOK button, which is just above the 24 pin power. That should allow you to get into bios and manually set timings and frequency for your ram.

edit:

For your memory It looks like it's 9-9-9-24 @ 1.65 volts. Double check first.


----------



## Z Overlord

what setting do you guys have for LLC?


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> what setting do you guys have for LLC?


I'm using 1 under max. 75%?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> I would buy that if my card showed as x16 (like my friends does just above the gen3 3 selector in the bios) and showed what i have above when it wasnt being used. However mine does not show x16 in bios only x4 in pcie16_1 slot and it does show as x8 in pcie16_2 slot which is correct since that is x8 for sli...that right there coupled with my friends 670 reporting x16 in bios in slot 1 on his sabertooth.
> I contacted ASUS for an RMA, first time ive had to use it i hope they dont disappoint, id really like to keep my sabertooth but i will not settle for a broken slot giving me less than the supposed speed im supposed to have.


well there you go then, alls well that ends well. I personally haven't dealt with Asus cutomer service, though I prob should have, because of my weak overclock Direct CuII570s, but I hear they are excellent. Hopefully they send you a good board that reads correctly. Its good you had that spare card to verify the issue was a mobo one.

My LLC is set to medium 25%.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> You have to remember...I have a Fermi...so it shows PCIe 2.0, but here is the GPU-Z before the card goes into rest mode
> Is your card running in X1 or X4 mode in bios? Mine says X1


Mine shows x4 above the card in the bios.

In windows it shows @x4 3.0

when i looked on my friends bios settings his 670 reported x16 in the bios above the gen3 button where mine only shows x4.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paco19*
> 
> Hi,
> I just setup a new computer and i have a issue with i can't seem to figure out what is causing the issue. When i power on the computer it stays on for about 10 seconds then shut's off and continues to to do this cycle unless i turn off the power supply and also fans,video card fans turn on. I notice that the CPU LED is on when the computer is on. I have tested the power supply with a power supply tester and issues.
> My setup is:
> Power Supply: Corsair TX750
> RAM: Sector 5 DDR3 133Mhz 8GB( 2 x 4GB sticks)
> Video Card: GEFORCE GTX 500 series
> CPU: i5 Intel
> I would appreciate any suggestions as i am close to exchanging the mother board. Thanks in advance.


Do you have that little black speaker connected to the bottom right of the motherboard ... It will give you error beeps and you can tell what the error code is by the beeps. Try that first ... also use only one stick of ram..


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paco19*
> 
> Hi,
> I just setup a new computer and i have a issue with i can't seem to figure out what is causing the issue. When i power on the computer it stays on for about 10 seconds then shut's off and continues to to do this cycle unless i turn off the power supply and also fans,video card fans turn on. I notice that the CPU LED is on when the computer is on. I have tested the power supply with a power supply tester and issues.
> My setup is:
> Power Supply: Corsair TX750
> RAM: Sector 5 DDR3 133Mhz 8GB( 2 x 4GB sticks)
> Video Card: GEFORCE GTX 500 series
> CPU: i5 Intel
> I would appreciate any suggestions as i am close to exchanging the mother board. Thanks in advance.


Hey Paco same thing happeend to me when I flashed BIOS. I reset CMOS and then all was good.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> Mine shows x4 above the card in the bios.
> In windows it shows @x4 3.0
> when i looked on my friends bios settings his 670 reported x16 in the bios above the gen3 button where mine only shows x4.


What happens if you set the bios to X1? According to the manual, enabling X4 disables the PCIex1_1, PCIex1_2 and PCIe x1_3. X1 mode enables all slots. X4 is supposed to run at highest performance. Somewhat confusing. Also, when you set up your card, did you choose PCIe as primary video or AUTO? I set mine to PCIe

Been doing a lot of playing inside my bios. Granted...I have a PCIe 2.0 card. My graphics is set to PCIe and the mode is AUTO. Above the auto is x16 for slot 1, where my card is. The X1 and X4 have to do with my slot 3. Should I add a second card to the mix for SLI, then slot 1 and 2 become x8. Make sure your graphics are set up properly and that your card is in the right slot. SLI or Crossfire should be achieved using slot 1 and 2, mainly. My confusion came from the x4 being the setting on your graphics card. My X1 setting for slot 3 is for my Creative X-fi Titanium, which is X1. What happens if you set graphics to AUTO. My card is auto configured at x16. Maybe the Gen3 doesn't work...

Another thing you can do. Reflash your bios 1206 and make sure to run defaults before doing it. Do NOT flash if overclocked at all. Once done...clear your CMOS. Then restart and reset your settings. See if that changes anything...


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> For comparision sake:


In your bios, is graphics set to AUTO or GEN 3?


----------



## Z Overlord

what exactly does llc do? like as I raise it, what happens, and as I lower it, what happens?


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> What happens if you set the bios to X1? According to the manual, enabling X4 disables the PCIex1_1, PCIex1_2 and PCIe x1_3. X1 mode enables all slots. X4 is supposed to run at highest performance. Somewhat confusing. Also, when you set up your card, did you choose PCIe as primary video or AUTO? I set mine to PCIe
> Been doing a lot of playing inside my bios. Granted...I have a PCIe 2.0 card. My graphics is set to PCIe and the mode is AUTO. Above the auto is x16 for slot 1, where my card is. The X1 and X4 have to do with my slot 3. Should I add a second card to the mix for SLI, then slot 1 and 2 become x8. Make sure your graphics are set up properly and that your card is in the right slot. SLI or Crossfire should be achieved using slot 1 and 2, mainly. My confusion came from the x4 being the setting on your graphics card. My X1 setting for slot 3 is for my Creative X-fi Titanium, which is X1. What happens if you set graphics to AUTO. My card is auto configured at x16. Maybe the Gen3 doesn't work...
> Another thing you can do. Reflash your bios 1206 and make sure to run defaults before doing it. Do NOT flash if overclocked at all. Once done...clear your CMOS. Then restart and reset your settings. See if that changes anything...


Already done everything above. The x1 and x4 control you speak of is for the black pcie on the bottom, i have that set to 1x....but that is for addon card slots and has nothing to do with pcie16 slots. As far as i know you cannot change the link width of the slot only the gen1-gen3 stuff which is a totally different animal. Primary is set to pcie....and as said before above the pcie16_1 slot for gen type it will only report x4. Its all good i am not sweating it ASUS will take care of me should have an email tomorrow with rma info and they will cross ship so no down time. First time ive ever had a problem with their boards, it happens...as long as they take care of me i got no beef.

On another note hopefully the new board reports x16 otherwise it could be cpu but i doubt it as the 2nd pcie video card slot read the cards proper at x8 so i should be set when they send me the new mobo.


----------



## likethegun

delete - had this window lingering and didnt see the last 2 posts before submitting


----------



## JonathanNgo

Guys, today I just got the PK-1 and had time to finish my rig.

However, when I turn the PSU on, hit the power on button, the CPU led is RED and after about 4 seconds, it automatically restarts.
Power Led is green.

I wonder if anything happens to my CPU? I did take it out, put the TIM on again, install it in. Still red light.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> In your bios, is graphics set to AUTO or GEN 3?


Gen 3, but gpuz reads it the same either way


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JonathanNgo*
> 
> Guys, today I just got the PK-1 and had time to finish my rig.
> However, when I turn the PSU on, hit the power on button, the CPU led is RED and after about 4 seconds, it automatically restarts.
> Power Led is green.
> I wonder if anything happens to my CPU? I did take it out, put the TIM on again, install it in. Still red light.


try the MemOK button


----------



## paco19

Blatsz32, Gauntlet3h, bandook

Thanks for the suggestions/help and i will try all of the steps later on tonight. Will post if i have any issues.


----------



## JonathanNgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> try the MemOK button


Guess what, stupid me that I forgot to connect the 8-pin wire lol

All things are done. Phew....


----------



## Hursty

So i've had my Sabertooth for about a month and love it, just installed my 680 yesterday upgrading from my SLI'd 560ti's , but i had a question, I noticed this when i purchased the motherboard but wasn't concerned ( i believe it could be a error on the website) but on the product page at NCIX it lists that it supports : [ Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology ]

And maybe i'm missing something but it only has 3 PCI express slots, so would it only support 3-way SLI? I never plan on getting more then 1 680 so it really doesn't matter but i was just curious.

(http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=69881)


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hursty*
> 
> So i've had my Sabertooth for about a month and love it, just installed my 680 yesterday upgrading from my SLI'd 560ti's , but i had a question, I noticed this when i purchased the motherboard but wasn't concerned ( i believe it could be a error on the website) but on the product page at NCIX it lists that it supports : [ Supports NVIDIA® Quad-GPU SLI™ Technology
> Supports AMD Quad-GPU CrossFireX™ Technology ]
> And maybe i'm missing something but it only has 3 PCI express slots, so would it only support 3-way SLI? I never plan on getting more then 1 680 so it really doesn't matter but i was just curious.
> (http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=69881)


i believe what they mean is 2 690s or 2 590s

That setup is called quad sli.

my 2 cents.


----------



## maTyaR

Is the Z77 Sabertooth cover glued onto the board or can it be separated from screws? I just want an alternative if my BIOS reset button breaks, I could just reset the CMOS battery.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Its attached with screws and can be removed if desired.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maTyaR*
> 
> Is the Z77 Sabertooth cover glued onto the board or can it be separated from screws? I just want an alternative if my BIOS reset button breaks, I could just reset the CMOS battery.


if it's a matter of reseting the CMOS, there are pins ate the bottom of the mobo by the USB plugs. Move the header to 2,3 for 10 seconds. check it out in the manual. No need to take out the battery.


----------



## ProChargedLS2

So can I not plug my HDD and SSD into the grey sata slots? I am an extreme noob when it comes to this.


----------



## nike23osu

Well i will soon be out of the Sabertooth owners club. They will not advance RMA my board (they advertise my board as qualifying for it) and expect me to tear out my mobo send it to them be down for 10 days plus and get a referb back. Im sorry but that is unacceptable customer service and i will not deal with that type of business going forward....until now all my boards have been ASUS and have been great but when a customer has a broken product due to no fault of theirs you should treat them like you advertise that you do. Im very bummed out right now as i cannot afford to be down for 10 days







so my only option is to get a new mobo from someone who will take care of me if their product fails.


----------



## ks1

I am having trouble changeing the multi manually. I go to bios-adavanced-cpu configuration and change auto to manual on the Ai Overclock Tuner but I haven't been able to unlock an area to manually input the multi. Any ideas? I have a 3570k two of these sticks for memory.


----------



## FearXI

I'm a soon to be owner.
Love everything about this card and I making this build massive.
Going to run me $2,499.74 before shipping lol.


----------



## paco19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Hey Paco same thing happeend to me when I flashed BIOS. I reset CMOS and then all was good.


I tried that last night and did not help at all the same issue still happens.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> It's most likely your ram that is preventing the post. (seeing as how it's only 133mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I kid. Anyways, you just need to hit to press and hold the MemOK button, which is just above the 24 pin power. That should allow you to get into bios and manually set timings and frequency for your ram.
> edit:
> For your memory It looks like it's 9-9-9-24 @ 1.65 volts. Double check first.


I pressed and hold the memOK button but it still does the same power on and power off cycle even with holding down the button.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Do you have that little black speaker connected to the bottom right of the motherboard ... It will give you error beeps and you can tell what the error code is by the beeps. Try that first ... also use only one stick of ram..


The speaker is connected and i tried one stick at at a time. I dont get any beep codes at all as it powers on then 4 6 seconds later it shuts off and continues in a cycle.

Is there anythings else that you can suggest? I am not sure what can be causing this issue. I have spend at least two weeks trying to figure out the issue. I am at the point where i think that it could either be the CPU or the Mother board. Thanks again for any suggestions


----------



## Blatsz32

Paco, what are your system specs? Are you positive that your PSU has the juice to run all your components. Keep a clear mind, worst case scenario might have to RMA


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paco19*
> 
> I tried that last night and did not help at all the same issue still happens.
> I pressed and hold the memOK button but it still does the same power on and power off cycle even with holding down the button.
> The speaker is connected and i tried one stick at at a time. I dont get any beep codes at all as it powers on then 4 6 seconds later it shuts off and continues in a cycle.
> Is there anythings else that you can suggest? I am not sure what can be causing this issue. I have spend at least two weeks trying to figure out the issue. I am at the point where i think that it could either be the CPU or the Mother board. Thanks again for any suggestions


I know you said you checked your psu, but have you checked all your wiring? Both the wires themselves and the connections? Sounds definitely like a power issue in some regard. Like some component receiving high voltage or something.

Anyway you can post specific parts and model numbers of everything you got in there and which socket/ports you have them wired to?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Paco, what are your system specs? Are you positive that your PSU has the juice to run all your components. Keep a clear mind, worst case scenario might have to RMA


750 watts is def enough. Just sounds like something is either spiking or just wired wrong.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProChargedLS2*
> 
> So can I not plug my HDD and SSD into the grey sata slots? I am an extreme noob when it comes to this.


I think it will be easier and more beneficial to you if you read your owners manuals for your equipment. BUT, if you still have questions after you read them then i'm all ears and more than happy to help.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> 750 watts is def enough. Just sounds like something is either spiking or just wired wrong.


He's been at it for 2 weeks, I think he needs to RMA. This seems like the same issue I had with my old Gigabyte board. I applaud your vigilance with the board Paco but I think it just might be easier to return the board for a new one.

As tedious as going through the motions of trying to solve a computer issue is, it might just be easier to return the board, telling your vendor what the issue is, and getting a new one. Seems ike you have alot of patience so the time it takes to get a new one, if you bought the mobo on line, will be short. In the end I think you won't regret waiting.


----------



## paco19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I know you said you checked your psu, but have you checked all your wiring? Both the wires themselves and the connections? Sounds definitely like a power issue in some regard. Like some component receiving high voltage or something.
> Anyway you can post specific parts and model numbers of everything you got in there and which socket/ports you have them wired to?


Yes i have checked all of the wires in the PSU as i originally thought that was the issue. As far the specs go i will need to get that later tonight but this is what i can remember as of now that i have:

1)CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V (PSU)
2)Patriot PGV38G1333ELK G Series Sector 5 Desktop Memory Kit - 8GB (2x 4GB), PC3-10666, DDR3-1333MHz,(RAM)
3) i5 CPU
4) SATA Hard Drive
5) SATA DVD Drive
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> He's been at it for 2 weeks, I think he needs to RMA. This seems like the same issue I had with my old Gigabyte board. I applaud your vigilance with the board Paco but I think it just might be easier to return the board for a new one.
> As tedious as going through the motions of trying to solve a computer issue is, it might just be easier to return the board, telling your vendor what the issue is, and getting a new one. Seems ike you have alot of patience so the time it takes to get a new one, if you bought the mobo on line, will be short. In the end I think you won't regret waiting.


I actually bought at a store and still have all of my receipts so i think that will be my best option since i have been at for a month and two weeks since putting the stuff together.My only problem will be what if the board is ok and actually the CPU is defective then i would still have an issue. That would mean that i would have to change the CPU too but i bought everything at same store so it should not be a big issue.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and help i appreciate it for everyone that gave me the suggestions.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paco19*
> 
> Yes i have checked all of the wires in the PSU as i originally thought that was the issue. As far the specs go i will need to get that later tonight but this is what i can remember as of now that i have:
> 1)CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V (PSU)
> 2)Patriot PGV38G1333ELK G Series Sector 5 Desktop Memory Kit - 8GB (2x 4GB), PC3-10666, DDR3-1333MHz,(RAM)
> 3) i5 CPU
> 4) SATA Hard Drive
> 5) SATA DVD Drive
> I actually bought at a store and still have all of my receipts so i think that will be my best option since i have been at for a month and two weeks since putting the stuff together.My only problem will be what if the board is ok and actually the CPU is defective then i would still have an issue. That would mean that i would have to change the CPU too but i bought everything at same store so it should not be a big issue.
> Thanks again for all the suggestions and help i appreciate it for everyone that gave me the suggestions.


When I had an issue with my Gigabyte, I took the CPU/Mobo to Microcenter (where I bought) and they checked it to rule out the culprit. Turned out to be the mobo, 3 mobos later and still at the store, they found one that worked. So, what I'm getting at is, take both mobo and cpu to store and see if they can test itto rule out the issue.
GL Paco


----------



## ProChargedLS2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I think it will be easier and more beneficial to you if you read your owners manuals for your equipment. BUT, if you still have questions after you read them then i'm all ears and more than happy to help.


Well that's the thing, I couldn't find anything on what specific slot to use, so I hooked everything up by knowledge. I put my Kingston SSD and my Seagate Baracuda 500gb 7200rpm HDD both into the grey SATA slots using the white and black connectors.

And what do you guys think about the integrated "nic" card? Am I better off using a third party one or is this one in it pretty good? And how about the audio?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProChargedLS2*
> 
> Well that's the thing, I couldn't find anything on what specific slot to use, so I hooked everything up by knowledge. I put my Kingston SSD and my Seagate Baracuda 500gb 7200rpm HDD both into the grey SATA slots using the white and black connectors.
> And what do you guys think about the integrated "nic" card? Am I better off using a third party one or is this one in it pretty good? And how about the audio?


No bud, you want your SSD in the Brown SATA slot, especially if it uses 6Gb/s connection. thats the Intel serial port, the 2 browns are regular3gb/s connectors..your 7200HDD would be fine in there unless it's a 6Gb/s. the grey SATA slot is the ASMEDIA serial SATA slot. Even though it's still 6Gb/s I'll bet my last dollar it's not as fast as the Intel one.

The onboard NiC is a bit wonky for me. I think it's the iNetwork software i installed. My DL speeds are still in the high 20mbs and upload speed is 7 or 10. My sound is great, still once I can afford it I think I am going to get a nice soundcaard. Currently I have my comp hooked up to a reciver via toslink cable. Sounds good.


----------



## ProChargedLS2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> No bud, you want your SSD in the Brown SATA slot, especially if it uses 6Gb/s connection. thats the Intel serial port, the 2 browns are regular3gb/s connectors..your 7200HDD would be fine in there unless it's a 6Gb/s. the grey SATA slot is the ASMEDIA serial SATA slot. Even though it's still 6Gb/s I'll bet my last dollar it's not as fast as the Intel one.
> The onboard NiC is a bit wonky for me. I think it's the iNetwork software i installed. My DL speeds are still in the high 20mbs and upload speed is 7 or 10. My sound is great, still once I can afford it I think I am going to get a nice soundcaard. Currently I have my comp hooked up to a reciver via toslink cable. Sounds good.


Oh ok, so then where do I put my HDD at? The brown SATA slots along with the SSD? And they are both using the 6gb/s connectors, I read that they are the best.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProChargedLS2*
> 
> Oh ok, so then where do I put my HDD at? The brown SATA slots along with the SSD? And they are both using the 6gb/s connectors, I read that they are the best.


You can put it on any of the remaining, really. I put it on the black intel sata 2 port simply to make for a faster post . Any mechanical drive will be fine on the 4 intel sata II ports. You can skip the extra bios screen if you don't use the white ASMedia sata 3 ports.


----------



## ProChargedLS2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> You can put it on any of the remaining, really. I put it on the black intel sata 2 port simply to make for a faster post . Any mechanical drive will be fine on the 4 intel sata II ports. You can skip the extra bios screen if you don't use the white ASMedia sata 3 ports.


So I can leave my HDD with the 6g/bs cord in the greay sata slot? And what windows OS do you recommend? Right now I am on Undeadcrows WIndows 7 Gamers Edition.


----------



## likethegun

delete - answered just before this post haha


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProChargedLS2*
> 
> So I can leave my HDD with the 6g/bs cord in the greay sata slot? And what windows OS do you recommend? Right now I am on Undeadcrows WIndows 7 Gamers Edition.


You can if you want, yes. I just use regular old win 7 ultimate







Have no idea what undeadcrows edition is, lol. Just a hacked install i suppose. Never quite trusted those hacked versions myself. Just never know if there is a backdoor there that you are unaware of. But to each his own.


----------



## ks1

Has anyone else had trouble getting their crossfire setups recognized? I tried each card individually and they both work on the pciExpress _1 slot but my 6950's aren't recognized in crossfire by CCC or GPU-z. when I have the cards in pciEX _1 and _2. Any ideas for what I could try? Maybe I have a bad pci Express slot on _2? Have tried two different bios but that didn't help...


----------



## Raafe

I picked up the first 3 new components of my rebuild during a great combo sale - HAF 932 Advanced, Sabertooth Z77, i5 3570K. I think by using the stock CPU cooler for now and other salvaged parts from my current rig I can be running tomorrow. I'll take some pics during this first phase.

Next will be the full 32 GB RAM from G.SKILL and an XSPC Water Kit. Then I'll try my hand at some overclocking.


----------



## JYJelly

hey guys, so I went to AI overclock tuner in the bios and enabled XMP. It got my RAM to 1600 mhz, but now my idle CPU temps are at mid to high 30s. I tried setting it back to auto, but my temps are the same. Before my temps would hover around high 20s to low 30s. It was a pretty warm day today (27 C compared to around 21-23C), but I don't think the temps would jump that much. I'm using a h60 cooler push/pull if that helps. Here are my idle temps at the moment in ASUS thermal rader

CPU: 38
Motherboard: 35 C
Vcore : 50C
Vctore Back: 50 C
VCCIO/VCCSA: 50 C
iGPU: 41C
DRAM: 44 C
PCH: 44 C
USB 3.0: 47 C
SATA6G: 45 C
PCIE-1: 38 C
PCIE-2: 40 C

These temps seem quite high for something on idle. I'm using a fractal design r3 with the moduvents close, but I have 2 intakes in the front and 1 intake in the bottom. Should I be worried with these temps?


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JYJelly*
> 
> hey guys, so I went to AI overclock tuner in the bios and enabled XMP. It got my RAM to 1600 mhz, but now my idle CPU temps are at mid to high 30s. I tried setting it back to auto, but my temps are the same. Before my temps would hover around high 20s to low 30s. It was a pretty warm day today (27 C compared to around 21-23C), but I don't think the temps would jump that much. I'm using a h60 cooler push/pull if that helps. Here are my idle temps at the moment in ASUS thermal rader
> CPU: 38
> Motherboard: 35 C
> Vcore : 50C
> Vctore Back: 50 C
> VCCIO/VCCSA: 50 C
> iGPU: 41C
> DRAM: 44 C
> PCH: 44 C
> USB 3.0: 47 C
> SATA6G: 45 C
> PCIE-1: 38 C
> PCIE-2: 40 C
> These temps seem quite high for something on idle. I'm using a fractal design r3 with the moduvents close, but I have 2 intakes in the front and 1 intake in the bottom. Should I be worried with these temps?


Try using RealTempGT to monitor your temps.
I notice that the ThermalRadar gives a lower temperature reading in comparison to RealTemp - I would just take the higher as a better per-cautionay measure.

Any chance the HSF wasn't set correctly when installed? - Changing the RAM to XMP setting does not make your CPU running any faster at idle in my opinion....


----------



## JYJelly

I think the cooler is seated properly since my max temps are 51C when playing BF3. I'm just surprised at why my idle temps are so high. What would you say are decent temps for a 3570k at stock settings with an h60 are?


----------



## Blatsz32

I'm not using xfire, I'm using SLi and i'm having no issues at all. Gpu-z picks up the IGPU first btw, just in case you didn't know.

ok jelly, that dog is so adorable i want to vomit. LOL. But yeah, my idle temps are between 25-38. I guess it just depends on the ambient temp. Currently my 3570k is overclocked to 4.4 with max voltage of 1.25. At load i get about 57c. I Idle pretty high but a lot of people tell me that idle temps aren't to major. If you are getting good load temps you should be fine. I have a custom water loop and I still idle that high. Must be the 22nm die, who knows.

Also, take the thermal radar temps with a grain of salt. I've got 4 diffrent temp monitoring softwares and they all read diffrently. It's annoying. I just estimate where i'm at. I use CoreTep, HWMonitor, HWinfo64,and Realtemp along with the Thermal Radar.


----------



## JYJelly

haha thanks. Its not my dog unfortunately, just found the pic on the web lolol. I was able to decrease my temps to low 30s, high 20s by decreasing the voltage with an offset of -0.030 in the bios. So now my voltage is around 1.034 in the bios (originally 1.060 something). Is it possible to reach 4.0ghz with that voltage? Sorry, real noob in the whole overclocking thing in general. Really appreciate the help though !


----------



## skullmanx

Hello people! New here and fresh owner of this awesome mobo but now I'm looking for a good video card, two if possible.
I had my eyes on the Asus GTX 680 DirectCU II TOP and i was wondering if i could SLI 2 of them on this mobo. Seeing as the GPU takes up to 3 PCI slots, i'm afraid they won't have room to breathe, or even fit. And putting one in the first 3.0 slot and another in the last 2.0 slot just won't make it...uhm, right?
Also, would the Corsair TX850 PSU handle them? Don't plan on overclocking them too soon.
And no, im not planning on buying both cards NOW, because im well aware it would be a total overkill. I'm just curious if they would fit...future proofing knowledge







.

Thank you


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skullmanx*
> 
> Hello people! New here and fresh owner of this awesome mobo but now I'm looking for a good video card, two if possible.
> I had my eyes on the Asus GTX 680 DirectCU II TOP and i was wondering if i could SLI 2 of them on this mobo. Seeing as the GPU takes up to 3 PCI slots, i'm afraid they won't have room to breathe, or even fit. And putting one in the first 3.0 slot and another in the last 2.0 slot just won't make it...uhm, right?
> Also, would the Corsair TX850 PSU handle them? Don't plan on overclocking them too soon.
> And no, im not planning on buying both cards NOW, because im well aware it would be a total overkill. I'm just curious if they would fit...future proofing knowledge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Thank you



VERY TIGHT!


----------



## Sxcerino

Hey guys

Have any of you solved the slow POST/BOOT on the sabertooth z77s? It feels like an eternity booting from sabertooth compared to z77 Pro


----------



## ProChargedLS2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bandook*
> 
> You can if you want, yes. I just use regular old win 7 ultimate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have no idea what undeadcrows edition is, lol. Just a hacked install i suppose. Never quite trusted those hacked versions myself. Just never know if there is a backdoor there that you are unaware of. But to each his own.


I switched back to ultimate, turns out it was just a gimmick with nice transitions lol


----------



## ProChargedLS2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> VERY TIGHT!


I like that case, what is it? I might upgrade form a midATX to a full ATX case, I plan on having a lot more fans and cooling in the future...


----------



## Dukman

I'm seriously looking to switch from my ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe to this board. I orignally considered the Z68 version of the Sabertooth but at that time the lack of PCI slots was a concern. (yeah... I know get with the program).

Now that I don't have to worry about PCI cards (my soundcard was PCI) any longer, I'm back to eyeballing this motherboard. After doing some speed reading through this thread I am seeing more alot of good things.

I don't have any immediate plans to upgrade to an Ivy Bridge CPU so really, I need to sit back and consider if it would be worth the jump from the Z68 board to this one. But, it is tempting, if only for the aesthetics of the board.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Hey guys
> Have any of you solved the slow POST/BOOT on the sabertooth z77s? It feels like an eternity booting from sabertooth compared to z77 Pro


The new Bios fixed it, the 1059 bios had the wierd double Post screen, the newer bios flashes once then goes straight to OS. Its so quick I have to be mighty fast on the old "del" button to get to the bios screen

the case is a CM Storm Trooper. CM has some awsome cases. I used to have a storm Sniper. it was a standard ATX case but it was HUGE. I love my Trooper, it's wonderful. Not positive but theres the Rosewill Thor, I was thinking about going with that as it's an extra large case, and belive it or not, it's at a lower price point. It doesn't have alot of the modularity of the trooper but it's alot roomier and I'm thinking about upgrading my rads.


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Hey guys
> Have any of you solved the slow POST/BOOT on the sabertooth z77s? It feels like an eternity booting from sabertooth compared to z77 Pro


It is slower than average. Only thing I could do to make it a little faster is not use the ASMedia sata ports. You save maybe 6 seconds without the ASMedia post screen.


----------



## Blatsz32

oh wait, you all are talking about from when you turn the comp on, to where you hear the beep? Or from the beep to the OS? Cause my beep to OS is acceptable, not Star trek instantaneous fast but not 1980 apple 2gs slow either. Now on the other hand, from power on to beep, sometimes there is a bit of a delay..but hey, what in the world could be so possibly important that you need to be on your desktop so fast. Do you need to disable incoming nuclear missles from your desktop?


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paco19*
> 
> I tried that last night and did not help at all the same issue still happens.
> I pressed and hold the memOK button but it still does the same power on and power off cycle even with holding down the button.
> The speaker is connected and i tried one stick at at a time. I dont get any beep codes at all as it powers on then 4 6 seconds later it shuts off and continues in a cycle.
> Is there anythings else that you can suggest? I am not sure what can be causing this issue. I have spend at least two weeks trying to figure out the issue. I am at the point where i think that it could either be the CPU or the Mother board. Thanks again for any suggestions


Some years back I had a similar issue to yours. It was turning off after a few seconds ... I disconnected my IDE hard drives since they were connected to the PSU. It turned out the PSU was faulty. I got a replacement and everything worked fine.

If you can borrow or use another PSU give that a shot first before replacing your mobo/cpu.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> oh wait, you all are talking about from when you turn the comp on, to where you hear the beep? Or from the beep to the OS? Cause my beep to OS is acceptable, not Star trek instantaneous fast but not 1980 apple 2gs slow either. Now on the other hand, from power on to beep, sometimes there is a bit of a delay..but hey, what in the world could be so possibly important that you need to be on your desktop so fast. Do you need to disable incoming nuclear missles from your desktop?


Yes! with the help of my thermal radar

I'm going to disable my asmedia ports and see if it makes a difference; just the sata ones or USB as well?


----------



## cphaeng

Need help please.

I am putting these components together.

Asus Z77 Sabertooth (new) (bios 1015)
Intel i5 3570k (new)
Corsair Vengeance ddr3 1600 4 x 4gb (new)
Antec High current 750 W
Nvidia GTX 460 x 2 SLI
Cooler Master V8
Cooler Master Storm Scout
Intel & Kingston SSD
2 x HDD

I first connected all components and cables at once...got Boot Device LED. Took eveything apart and started with just 1 stick of RAM and boot with one additional components at a time. But I couldn't install GTX460. It would POST with one beep but no vdo output to my monitor (couldn't tell if window boot up). I tried every combination possible (1 GTX, 2 GTX, swap cards/slots, changed HDMI/DVI/VGA, 2nd monitor, etc). I went ahead and finished installing W7 x64. The system is running just fine without the 2 GTX460 plugged in. Maybe this is just a defective board? Any suggestions?

TIA


----------



## Blatsz32

try plugging your HDMI cable straight into the Mobo, it's probably using the IGPU as your primary. usually one beep means that everything is copacetic. Even if it is your mobos PCI slots that are at fault you really can't tell with the beeps because the 3570k has it's own source of video. When I was running hardware tests I was getting one beep without my cards because I was, in essence, still able to get video.good luck Cp, I hope it as simple as manually setting it in the bios. Still, I find it weird that you are having to do that.
Ok wait, so you have plugged into the onboard HDMI? I'm sorry I read the last part of your post and you said you can get into the OS. did you change anything in the Bios though?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Some years back I had a similar issue to yours. It was turning off after a few seconds ... I disconnected my IDE hard drives since they were connected to the PSU. It turned out the PSU was faulty. I got a replacement and everything worked fine.
> If you can borrow or use another PSU give that a shot first before replacing your mobo/cpu.


I think he already went the route to replace his mobo, but I agree with you. It definitely sounds like a power issue.


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Hey guys
> Have any of you solved the slow POST/BOOT on the sabertooth z77s? It feels like an eternity booting from sabertooth compared to z77 Pro


Disabling the ASMedia SATA and eSATA speeds things up.

The 1206 bios has a considerably faster boot time than the previous bios version's.

My Sabertooth screen is on my monitor for less than a second and it takes me about 7 seconds to get to the windows login screen after turning my pc on.


----------



## cphaeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> try plugging your HDMI cable straight into the Mobo, it's probably using the IGPU as your primary. usually one beep means that everything is copacetic. Even if it is your mobos PCI slots that are at fault you really can't tell with the beeps because the 3570k has it's own source of video. When I was running hardware tests I was getting one beep without my cards because I was, in essence, still able to get video.good luck Cp, I hope it as simple as manually setting it in the bios. Still, I find it weird that you are having to do that.
> Ok wait, so you have plugged into the onboard HDMI? I'm sorry I read the last part of your post and you said you can get into the OS. did you change anything in the Bios though?


Plugging HDMI directly to mobo only works for me when the GTX card(s) is not physically installed. I haven't built a new system for 4 years now so I am not comfortable changing settings in BIOS yet. Another thing I tried earlier was changing the graphic card option in BIOS from AUTO to GPU, saved the setting, rebooted,&#8230;but still couldn't get pass Boot Device LED. This is my second board now. First one went back because I think it had faulty SATA (similar symtoms&#8230;can't boot with any SATA devices connected).


----------



## paco19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I think he already went the route to replace his mobo, but I agree with you. It definitely sounds like a power issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Some years back I had a similar issue to yours. It was turning off after a few seconds ... I disconnected my IDE hard drives since they were connected to the PSU. It turned out the PSU was faulty. I got a replacement and everything worked fine.
> If you can borrow or use another PSU give that a shot first before replacing your mobo/cpu.


Hi,

I haven't had time to return the stuff yet as i been busy so i will give another PSU a try and what is the minimum wattage that i can use to test out if i don't have a 750W available?

Thanks


----------



## bandook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cphaeng*
> 
> Plugging HDMI directly to mobo only works for me when the GTX card(s) is not physically installed. I haven't built a new system for 4 years now so I am not comfortable changing settings in BIOS yet. Another thing I tried earlier was changing the graphic card option in BIOS from AUTO to GPU, saved the setting, rebooted,&#8230;but still couldn't get pass Boot Device LED. This is my second board now. First one went back because I think it had faulty SATA (similar symtoms&#8230;can't boot with any SATA devices connected).


You should have your Primary Display set in bios to either Auto or PEG. iGFX is onboard.


----------



## Zeta101

Hey guys, I know this might be covered already in the thread but I just need some clarification on what to buy in terms of cpu fans. I get the generic problem when starting my computer with my sabertooth mobo not starting my intel stock 4pin cpu fan properly. It quarter spins until windows starts and then randomly starts spinning at around 2200 rpm.
Before that my cpu reaches, without the fan running, around 35 degrees.

I have the cpu fan in the correct 4 pin header (CPU_FAN) and tried (CHA_FAN2 / CHA_FAN3 and CPU_OPT). I have also swapped it with other chassis' fans which are 3 pin/4 pin respectively and they start up fine in either CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT and BIOS monitors them correctly. It's just the singled-out intel stock fan not starting correctly in any headers.

I've been reading up about problems that are persisting with intel stock fans and getting a custom heatsink cpu fan is the definite go but I'm just wondering if you guys have any input on what I should get and IF a 3 pin-cpu fan would fix this problem. I don't really mind having no control over the fan speed, I'd just like it to run as soon as it starts.

PS. Is there BIOS settings I can set to power on the device before other devices etc?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Have you tried changing the fan curve in Thermal Radar to possibly make it reach the higher RPM sooner?


----------



## ctepp

I might try plugging in 3 pins (perhaps directly into the power supply) just to make sure the fan is good. BTW, I was able to cut down on my noise by a ton by switching out the center mini-fan with a bunch of stick-on copper heat sinks, didn't have an impact on the thermal radar temps, and got rid of the mosquito-like whine of that center fan.

Anyway, quick question, first time poster long time lurker- I am OCing a 3770k w/ HT...it runs really hot on the Noctua D14 so much so I re-seated about 5 times using every technique imaginable (95 max temp at 1.305V for 4.6ghz with IBT-maximum).

I've resigned myself to the high temps and a 4.55ghz 24/7 OC, bought the tuning plan from intel etc. Even so, I switched to an offset OC. My question is, what LLC have people found has worked best for ivy OCing this board? I have been going back and forth between high and very high.

Thanks


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paco19*
> 
> 1)CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V (PSU)
> 2)Patriot PGV38G1333ELK G Series Sector 5 Desktop Memory Kit - 8GB (2x 4GB), PC3-10666, DDR3-1333MHz,(RAM)
> 3) i5 CPU
> 4) SATA Hard Drive
> 5) SATA DVD Drive
> Thanks


No gpu? If this is all your testing, then pretty much any psu you find that will connect to everything will work.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctepp*
> 
> I might try plugging in 3 pins (perhaps directly into the power supply) just to make sure the fan is good. BTW, I was able to cut down on my noise by a ton by switching out the center mini-fan with a bunch of stick-on copper heat sinks, didn't have an impact on the thermal radar temps, and got rid of the mosquito-like whine of that center fan.
> Anyway, quick question, first time poster long time lurker- I am OCing a 3770k w/ HT...it runs really hot on the Noctua D14 so much so I re-seated about 5 times using every technique imaginable (95 max temp at 1.305V for 4.6ghz with IBT-maximum).
> I've resigned myself to the high temps and a 4.55ghz 24/7 OC, bought the tuning plan from intel etc. Even so, I switched to an offset OC. My question is, what LLC have people found has worked best for ivy OCing this board? I have been going back and forth between high and very high.
> Thanks


http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet

check that thread


----------



## MoYu

for some strange reason... after i installed the latest bios 1206. im getting boot errors and cant boot to my ssd when i turn on my computer. The only way i can successfully boot from the drive is to first go into the bios, then restart from there, and it boots.

Anyone have the same problem and know a fix?


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoYu*
> 
> for some strange reason... after i installed the latest bios 1206. im getting boot errors and cant boot to my ssd when i turn on my computer. The only way i can successfully boot from the drive is to first go into the bios, then restart from there, and it boots.
> Anyone have the same problem and know a fix?


Change the boot option to your SSD








Its cause you have more than 1 HDD I guess
Had the same issue, it was selecting my other HDD as primary boot and it could not find a boot disc


----------



## MoYu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoro*
> 
> Change the boot option to your SSD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its cause you have more than 1 HDD I guess
> Had the same issue, it was selecting my other HDD as primary boot and it could not find a boot disc


just checked, and thats not the problem, boot option #1 is already set to the drive i need to boot from. =/


----------



## neoro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoYu*
> 
> just checked, and thats not the problem, boot option #1 is already set to the drive i need to boot from. =/


How about the AHCI setting?
Could it have jumped it back to IDE ?


----------



## rwchui

My Sabertooth Z77 test bed!









Running a i7 2600k at 4.8ghz with 1.368vcore


----------



## ozzman0830

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoktorCreepy*
> 
> Disabling the ASMedia SATA and eSATA speeds things up.
> The 1206 bios has a considerably faster boot time than the previous bios version's.
> My Sabertooth screen is on my monitor for less than a second and it takes me about 7 seconds to get to the windows login screen after turning my pc on.


1206 didn't help my boot either. I also disabled the ASMedia items. I do have all 4 ram slots populated with G.Skill Sniper ram, so maybe that's my issue. The darn thing sometimes acts like it's not going to boot at all. What I usually do to fix it is to kill the power entirely and allow the capacitors on the board to discharge completely. Any thoughts? Other than this little annoying quirk, I love this board! Thanks!


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoYu*
> 
> just checked, and thats not the problem, boot option #1 is already set to the drive i need to boot from. =/


Reset your Cmos jumper


----------



## marshall89

Buy a sabertooth Z77 motherboard and I have 2 ATI 6950 and I can not able to be croosfire only takes me the first pci-e. So I can not get it.
Someone comes up with something?

I hope you help me thanks.


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzman0830*
> 
> 1206 didn't help my boot either. I also disabled the ASMedia items. I do have all 4 ram slots populated with G.Skill Sniper ram, so maybe that's my issue. The darn thing sometimes acts like it's not going to boot at all. What I usually do to fix it is to kill the power entirely and allow the capacitors on the board to discharge completely. Any thoughts? Other than this little annoying quirk, I love this board! Thanks!


Thats weird I would RMA If you can; boot ups shouldn't be that slow especially with the hardware in your sig.


----------



## microc

anyone here think this new cpu cooler will fit over the mb covering??
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Akasa-Cases-Coolers-Fans-heatsinks,16066.html
looks like it be to short.


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *microc*
> 
> anyone here think this new cpu cooler will fit over the mb covering??
> http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Akasa-Cases-Coolers-Fans-heatsinks,16066.html
> looks like it be to short.


That Venom Medusa will fit as it very similar to the NH-D14 which fits fine.

The other one I'm not sure.


----------



## ParadoxEternal

hi everyone i came here just to ask a quick question. I can't decide between a ASUS P8Z77 V-PRO or this board the Z77 Sabertooth and other people on the forums have said that this board might not be as good for cooling as it would seem, that (in their words) *"the TUF Armour really doesn't help all that much with cooling. You HAVE to have the system fan installed, otherwise it more or less becomes a huge insulator"*

From your experience, is that true? what do they mean by system fan? I would imagine they mean the two little fans that you install onto the motherboard.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ParadoxEternal*
> 
> hi everyone i came here just to ask a quick question. I can't decide between a ASUS P8Z77 V-PRO or this board the Z77 Sabertooth and other people on the forums have said that this board might not be as good for cooling as it would seem, that (in their words) *"the TUF Armour really doesn't help all that much with cooling. You HAVE to have the system fan installed, otherwise it more or less becomes a huge insulator"*
> From your experience, is that true? what do they mean by system fan? I would imagine they mean the two little fans that you install onto the motherboard.


http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672047


----------



## havok23

hey guys, hows it going. im new to p.c. building, and my first build is and still is(only a couple weeks old) a
Sabertooth Z77 mobo
I-5 2500k 1155 cpu
corsair H100 cooler
coolermaster HAF X case
corsair vengeance ram 16gb(8x8)
evga geforce 480 gpu
ocz zx 850 W psu
ocz vertex 4 ssd 128 gb boot drive
western digital cavilar black 1TB mass drive
now i have ahad my fair share of issues with this build thus far... but easily resolved, my probel now is with the sabertooth z77 mobo and my H100 cooler, everytime i boot up im told i have a cpu fan error, go into windows and everything seems fine... what do i do to try and fix this?? or do i ignore this( reallly difficult to ignore). any suggestions would be nice, cause im kinda freaking out.


----------



## Magzire

Add another to the club









Got this board last week along with a i7 3770k. Loving it so far, the OC tuner got it to 4.4GHz, now manually at 4.5GHz - 1.22v.

Few Questions :

Has anyone got Lucid's Virtu MVP to work? Do I need to also install Intel Graphics Accelerator Driver V8?

Also would I benefit if I update the bios?


----------



## mxfreek09

May I join the club?


----------



## Magzire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havok23*
> 
> now i have ahad my fair share of issues with this build thus far... but easily resolved, my probel now is with the sabertooth z77 mobo and my H100 cooler, everytime i boot up im told i have a cpu fan error, go into windows and everything seems fine... what do i do to try and fix this?? or do i ignore this( reallly difficult to ignore). any suggestions would be nice, cause im kinda freaking out.


Hey havok23. There is an easily solution. Go into the bios, Advance Mode> Monitor> CPU Fan Speed. Select ignore.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havok23*
> 
> now i have ahad my fair share of issues with this build thus far... but easily resolved, my probel now is with the sabertooth z77 mobo and my H100 cooler, everytime i boot up im told i have a cpu fan error, go into windows and everything seems fine... what do i do to try and fix this?? or do i ignore this( reallly difficult to ignore). any suggestions would be nice, cause im kinda freaking out.


I am running an H100 in my build with a 3770k and have no problems with any error messages. You need to make sure you have the main fan connector comming off the h100 plugged into the 4 pin cpu fan connector on the motherboard (up top by where you plugged the 8 pin eps power cable in at. refer to the mobo manual to make sure you have it plugged into the propper connector up top cause it sounds like you do not.


----------



## Blatsz32

Havok, in the bios go to the 'Monitor" tab, click on CPU FAN and choose ignore..problem solved.










Magzire, if you aren't using the most current bios you won't benefit from the faster boot time. Instead of having the boot logo flash twice the new bios flashes it once then goes straight to the OS. Other than that and some memory stability issues, you aren't really missing anything. Lucid MVP isn't all that great. It helps with benchmarks and thats about it. It might hekp if you use the IGP but if you are using a discreet GPU its useless. Unless of course you like stuttering and wonky frame rates. i have yet to see a post where someone is lauding VirtuMVP. I guess in concept its awesome but in action its pretty lackluster.


----------



## Magzire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> You need to make sure you have the main fan connector comming off the h100 plugged into the 4 pin cpu fan connector on the motherboard


Even if connected to the cpu pin, it still can't detect a fan speed since the H100 doesn't have one. So its normal to get this message, should be worried if you didnt


----------



## Magzire

Thanks Blatsz32, will update the bios and forget about MVP


----------



## ths61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> Figured it out gents, if you have the intel network icontrol on, disable it! it slows your upload speeds TREMENDOUSLY!


Thanks for the heads up on this issue.

I just built out 2 - Sabertooth Z77 machines. When I was copying things from one machine to the other I experienced 7kB/sec rates when copying from one SSD to another SSD over Gigabit Ethernet.

Once I disabled "Network iControl" on both machines, speeds went up to what was expected. The files copied in a couple of seconds versus 20+ hours.


----------



## mxfreek09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ths61*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on this issue.
> I just built out 2 - Sabertooth Z77 machines. When I was copying things from one machine to the other I experienced 7kB/sec rates when copying from one SSD to another SSD over Gigabit Ethernet.
> Once I disabled "Network iControl" on both machines, speeds went up to what was expected. The files copied in a couple of seconds versus 20+ hours.


That damn Network i Control had me about pulling my hair out for the first couple of days that I owned the board. 2 reformats, a new cat5e, and multiple calls to ISP only to find out the problem was something so simple.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magzire*
> 
> Even if connected to the cpu pin, it still can't detect a fan speed since the H100 doesn't have one. So its normal to get this message, should be worried if you didnt


Why would i be worried its hooked up correctly and giving me a readout.



Again if you plug in the main connector that comes out of the h100 into the PROPER cpu fan (not the optional or assist 4 pin) then you will not get this error message. While it has no fans it still has a motor that pumps the water and it will read out just like a fan with the rpms like above.


----------



## Magzire

ok sounds about right


----------



## BartAfterDark

Anyone knows any workarounds, so I could use AI Suite and all the other goodies on Windows 8?


----------



## Giuliani44

Im having a little bit of a problem, i just got my sabertooth z77 with an i7 3770k and i am trying to oc to 4.6 ghz. I have a corsair h60 and at 4.3 the cpu temps are at 42c but the problem is in my bios there is a lock of some sort, when i set the multiplier to 46 it kicks it back down to 43 and it will not let me set it higher than 43. Is there something i have to change to get past this point? Thanks in advanced.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> Im having a little bit of a problem, i just got my sabertooth z77 with an i7 3770k and i am trying to oc to 4.6 ghz. I have a corsair h60 and at 4.3 the cpu temps are at 42c but the problem is in my bios there is a lock of some sort, when i set the multiplier to 46 it kicks it back down to 43 and it will not let me set it higher than 43. Is there something i have to change to get past this point? Thanks in advanced.


That is strange, isn't the max multiplier like 63?


----------



## awhlui

Hi, I have a very slow internet connection problem with the Asus Sabertooth Z77 even with the Asus Inetwork control turned off. The strange thing is when I do speedtest (speedtest.net) its quite fast (100mbps down/80mbps up). but when I actually put it to use with softwares that require fast internet connections, the speed never exceeds 2mbps download (this is after testing it on multiple softwares...etc including something as simple as watching youtube video on my browser -- very very slow speed). I have another older computer connected the same way and no issues with internet speed whatsoever. I have updated the Lan driver already and still no help. I thot there maybe something wrong with the Lan card built into this motherboard, so I went out to get a new Lan card, still the same issue. I have now spent about a week on this and still no improvement.
Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.


----------



## Giuliani44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> That is strange, isn't the max multiplier like 63?


Im not sure how to check what the max is, but anything over 43 it will kick me back down to 43.


----------



## mxfreek09

I had a similar problem, what I ended up doing was switching to the google dns server. heres a link. https://developers.google.com/speed/public-dns/docs/using

I hope this will help.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> Im having a little bit of a problem, i just got my sabertooth z77 with an i7 3770k and i am trying to oc to 4.6 ghz. I have a corsair h60 and at 4.3 the cpu temps are at 42c but the problem is in my bios there is a lock of some sort, when i set the multiplier to 46 it kicks it back down to 43 and it will not let me set it higher than 43. Is there something i have to change to get past this point? Thanks in advanced.


could you take a screenshot of your BIOS setting and post..I belive its F12 to screenshot.
ok, this is going to sound stupid but after you type in 46 hit the "enter" key. Apologies if you've been doing that already. just trying to cover all bases
Still post the BIOS settings


----------



## Blatsz32




----------



## nike23osu

mine at 4.6 (done a very high stress test didnt know if he used high or very high so just used very high.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marshall89*
> 
> Buy a sabertooth Z77 motherboard and I have 2 ATI 6950 and I can not able to be croosfire only takes me the first pci-e. So I can not get it.
> Someone comes up with something?
> I hope you help me thanks.


What?


----------



## Giuliani44

Yes, i have been hitting enter and it just automatically changes the numbers to 43. Even when i enter the Ai suite it will not let me tune it past 4.3. And not that i planned on using auto tuning, but when i installed my drivers and Ai Suite 2 it was no where to be found. I will take a screen shot of my BIOS settings when i get home from work. I have also tried to update the board drivers and it says that they are up to date, so im not sure what the problem could be.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> Yes, i have been hitting enter and it just automatically changes the numbers to 43. Even when i enter the Ai suite it will not let me tune it past 4.3. And not that i planned on using auto tuning, but when i installed my drivers and Ai Suite 2 it was no where to be found. I will take a screen shot of my BIOS settings when i get home from work. I have also tried to update the board drivers and it says that they are up to date, so im not sure what the problem could be.


Go to the advanced mode in your BIOS, then to the tweaker tab. Make sure your auto tweak is not set to auto as well as your CPU bus speed. Lemme know what you find.


----------



## likethegun

Are both computers running the same OS? Have you checked a possibility of a firewall to limit your bandwidth?


----------



## Giuliani44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Go to the advanced mode in your BIOS, then to the tweaker tab. Make sure your auto tweak is not set to auto as well as your CPU bus speed. Lemme know what you find.


Everything is still set to auto, the only thing in manual is the turbo rating. 

Here are the pictures of my BIOS. I have looked through all the settings and i cant see anything that would be limiting it there. I am not sure if it is just a software issue or what.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> Everything is still set to auto, the only thing in manual is the turbo rating.
> 
> Here are the pictures of my BIOS. I have looked through all the settings and i cant see anything that would be limiting it there. I am not sure if it is just a software issue or what.


Did you select performance mode in basic? I think I had to set that back to normal then go into advanced before I made changes there.


----------



## Giuliani44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Did you select performance mode in basic? I think I had to set that back to normal then go into advanced before I made changes there.


I have it set to normal. For some reason there is a cap on the turbo at 43, it doesn't make much sense to me because i have searched the internet high and low and have not heard of any one else with this problem. I mean i really dont need to go higher than 4.3 but my plan was to go with 4.6 which is why i invested in the water cooler. So it is a bit frustrating.


----------



## Giuliani44

I figured it out, new egg decided to send me the wrong processor and sent me the 3770 instead of the 3770k so it is not unlocked.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> I figured it out, new egg decided to send me the wrong processor and sent me the 3770 instead of the 3770k so it is not unlocked.


Wow, glad you figured it out, never would have thought of checking that lol.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> I figured it out, new egg decided to send me the wrong processor and sent me the 3770 instead of the 3770k so it is not unlocked.


thats y I wanted you to post BIOS. Glad you figured it out though.Hope they send you a new one.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hi all!

Just got my Sabertooth a couple of weeks ago and upgraded to a 3570K yesterday!

Just wanted to say hello after having a quick read of this thread and also ask a couple of minor questions









1. What sort of idle temps are people getting on thermal radar points? because a couple of mine seem to me to be a little high, especially the USB 3.0 which right now is sitting at 49C

2. has anyone done any testing on mounting the Assist fans in different directions? for instance I'm wondering if having the face fan blowing air in under the thermal armor means I should have the I/O fan sucking air out instead of also blowing air in.

I have configured all my fans to run at speeds that are aurally comfortable but by no means silent, however they seem to be generally lower than the standard settings except on my case intake fans which are basically silent anyway.

Edit: I only found out today why they give us a second, spare I/O Assist fan mount cover. I don't really understand why if a 40mm fan will fit there they only supply a 35mm. I guess its easier to have both fans the same size?
Does anyone have any leads on where to get a good quality 40mm fan? I would assume that being slightly bigger it could move more air with less noise. I did find several on ebay that would work but most of them were very low powered and slow speed and the one high speed model I could find was very expensive.

Thanks y'all


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> I figured it out, new egg decided to send me the wrong processor and sent me the 3770 instead of the 3770k so it is not unlocked.


Haha I guess you were just so excited you didn't notice it! Nice work! lol


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Is there anyway I can make it on this board so the usb ports dont stay powered when I turn my computer off? I have tried the EuP enabled. but it still seems to stay on. any ideas?


----------



## javaneze

Loving the board so far.
Easiest overclocking ever. (coming from a X58 build)

Easy guide to 4.5 GHz on a 3570k
Multi:45
Vcore: Offset -0.005
vPLL: 1.675
LLC: High
Speedstep, C1E : enabled

On these settings I get an idle 0.968v / full load linx avx 1.192-1.200v.
If unstable try an offset of +0.005 to +0.010, no more needed usually.


----------



## Jim Pomerville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxfreek09*
> 
> That damn Network i Control had me about pulling my hair out for the first couple of days that I owned the board. 2 reformats, a new cat5e, and multiple calls to ISP only to find out the problem was something so simple.


Hello , I just joined the forum , ( i will update pixs and stuff later,,gotta goto work ) , Just wanted to say that there is an updated Network iControl ,,, V1.03.02 as of June 21st ,,on the Asus site ... I haven't had a chance to test it and see if it works better then the previous versions yet , but just thought i'd let people know that are having problems with their networks ...


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hi all!
> Just got my Sabertooth a couple of weeks ago and upgraded to a 3570K yesterday!
> Just wanted to say hello after having a quick read of this thread and also ask a couple of minor questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. What sort of idle temps are people getting on thermal radar points? because a couple of mine seem to me to be a little high, especially the USB 3.0 which right now is sitting at 49C
> 2. has anyone done any testing on mounting the Assist fans in different directions? for instance I'm wondering if having the face fan blowing air in under the thermal armor means I should have the I/O fan sucking air out instead of also blowing air in.
> I have configured all my fans to run at speeds that are aurally comfortable but by no means silent, however they seem to be generally lower than the standard settings except on my case intake fans which are basically silent anyway.
> Edit: I only found out today why they give us a second, spare I/O Assist fan mount cover. I don't really understand why if a 40mm fan will fit there they only supply a 35mm. I guess its easier to have both fans the same size?
> Does anyone have any leads on where to get a good quality 40mm fan? I would assume that being slightly bigger it could move more air with less noise. I did find several on ebay that would work but most of them were very low powered and slow speed and the one high speed model I could find was very expensive.
> Thanks y'all


Welcome to the club. I have my assist fans mounted as exhausts. My cards emit a hellasious amount of heat and find it counter productive to have my little fans blowing air into the board. In fact my only intake fans are the 2 front ones on my case, they are both spinning at 2500rpms.
Your temps on the USB 3.0 do seem kind of high. have you tried new drivers? The ones of the in-box CD are quit old. I suggested a few posts back that peeps should DL the V-Gene software. It seems to be more stable and has alot more things like ProbeII and FanExpertII bundled with it. You might even get a more accurate readout with updated Thermal Armor software.


----------



## Blatsz32

V1.03.02 as of June 21st-iNetwork

K, gonna download and try it out. Will report back in a few or later tonight (E.S.T) and let our club know what the deal is with this wonky software. Btw, Jim ty for the post and letting us all know about the update, if there arte peeps like myself, checking on this horrible piece of software, was the last thing we even thought of doing. +1 rep!
Holy smokes, have you all seen the new Maximus V...BEAUTIFUL!

FIXED FIXED FIXED- seems to be letting browser windows open seamlessly, download to upload speed on my torrent DL isn't out of whack, and there is no delay opening multiple browsers or tabs in each of those browsers.

currently using AISuite 1.0.2.29 ( V-Genes) and the new iNetwork Jim mentioned.


----------



## Zenophobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Giuliani44*
> 
> I figured it out, new egg decided to send me the wrong processor and sent me the 3770 instead of the 3770k so it is not unlocked.


I just realized the same thing.. Thought i had ordered the 3770k and ordered the 3770 non k version.. damn.. 15% restocking fee and another order... oh well.. My own damn fault.


----------



## lzepplin01

Hey guys, I've been enjoying following this thread for quite some time and have now run in to some issues with my Z77 Saber.

It started this morning when my computer was running fine. It was going along great, recognizing my 16 Gb of G.Skill Ares 1600 Mhz RAM (clocked at 1680, actually) and my 4.4 Ghz overclock without hiccups. Anyways, I updated to the brand new bios, and the problems began. First I noticed that the Turbo Ratio and Internal PLL Overvoltage menu selections have completely disappeared in the BIOS. They were there earlier, and now they're gone (along with my overclock). Similarly, my settings in (windows) Asus AITweak have disappeared. I can't adjust the multiplier anymore, anywhere. I have downgraded the bios, cleared the CMOS, and even repugraded the bios, to no avail. I have googled searched this problem deep (like 7-8 google pages deep) and it seems there are quite a few people that have this problem and as yet no solutions. Anyone know what is up here? I literally only upgraded the bios, though I may have hit the OC Tuner thing in the bios once at some point after, which did force another CMOS clearing. The problem most definitely either arose from the BIOS update or clicking OC tuner.

Then I later today noticed that the computer thinks I'm running 8 GB RAM. Of course, I have 16 installed and the post recognized all of them this morning. And, of course, I did due diligence and found that all of the DIMMs work by checking them one at a time. I'm confused and don't know how to proceed. Can anyone help untangle this one or do I need an RMA?

Specs:
3570K + Saber Z77
4x4 GB G.Skill Ares 1600 Mhz RAM
Asus DirectCUII 670GTX
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240 GB SSD
2x 3TB spinners
Rosewill 750W PSU


----------



## lzepplin01

OK so update: No progress.
I have tried 0906, 1015, and the latest 1206. Nada.

In all BIOS versions, however, the SPD information is showing a 4 GB stick in each slot. The mobo (even in other places in the BIOS) is only seeing 8 Gb total, still.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been enjoying following this thread for quite some time and have now run in to some issues with my Z77 Saber.
> It started this morning when my computer was running fine. It was going along great, recognizing my 16 Gb of G.Skill Ares 1600 Mhz RAM (clocked at 1680, actually) and my 4.4 Ghz overclock without hiccups. Anyways, I updated to the brand new bios, and the problems began. First I noticed that the Turbo Ratio and Internal PLL Overvoltage menu selections have completely disappeared in the BIOS. They were there earlier, and now they're gone (along with my overclock). Similarly, my settings in (windows) Asus AITweak have disappeared. I can't adjust the multiplier anymore, anywhere. I have downgraded the bios, cleared the CMOS, and even repugraded the bios, to no avail. I have googled searched this problem deep (like 7-8 google pages deep) and it seems there are quite a few people that have this problem and as yet no solutions. Anyone know what is up here? I literally only upgraded the bios, though I may have hit the OC Tuner thing in the bios once at some point after, which did force another CMOS clearing. The problem most definitely either arose from the BIOS update or clicking OC tuner.
> Then I later today noticed that the computer thinks I'm running 8 GB RAM. Of course, I have 16 installed and the post recognized all of them this morning. And, of course, I did due diligence and found that all of the DIMMs work by checking them one at a time. I'm confused and don't know how to proceed. Can anyone help untangle this one or do I need an RMA?
> Specs:
> 3570K + Saber Z77
> 4x4 GB G.Skill Ares 1600 Mhz RAM
> Asus DirectCUII 670GTX
> Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240 GB SSD
> 2x 3TB spinners
> Rosewill 750W PSU


Well this is a first I've heard of an issue of that sort. Have you contacted ASUS? If it's as prevalent of a problem as you mentioned then they must know of the issue.

How did you reset the CMOS? The 3pin jumper at the bottom? Your set up leads me to belive that you aren't a begineer at building PCs so you must have reset your BIOS b4 you flashed.
When I flashed my BIOS and I ran into problems I reset CMOS with the 3pin jumper and purged the motherboard of any power, restarted and that seemed to solve the problem. I've flashed my bios back and forth several times and haven't run into any issues using the EZFLASH usb port method.

I'm terribly sorry I can't be more help, apart from taking the course of action I mentioned above, 3pin CMOS reset and a purge, I don't feel comfortable giving advice on BIOS.


----------



## lzepplin01

Cheers man, thanks for the fast reply







. I'm not a n00b, but certainly no pro. I did use the 3 pin jumper to reset CMOS and have done it quite a few times now. Lost it once behind the PSU and took me a very long time to find that baby again. Needless to say, I almost gave my rig more problems than it already has trying to recover it out of frustration.
I have not used the USB port on the I/O hub out back for BIOS update, I usually just connect my USB stick and do it with EZ flash in the bios.


Image of the lack of the Turbo Ratio/Internal PLL settings


Only 8 GB recognized....


4 GB in A1


4 GB in A2


4 GB in B1


4 GB in B2

I will call ASUS monday (they dont take components calls on weekends) and see what happens. In my experience it's been frustrating doing so. I hope to be pleasantly surprised.
Sorry for posting so many pics, just trying to give folks a complete picture of what I'm talking about. Cheers!


----------



## Blatsz32

have you tried flashing on the EZFlash port in the back, give it a whirl, what do you have to lose


----------



## Defected87

I got mine a few weeks ago, beautiful board but is anyone having any issues with loud noises (coil whine?) when the gpu is under load? I've already verified that the GPU is not the problem by testing it out in another system.


----------



## javaneze

*@lzepplin01* I think there were reports of the same problem early in this thread.
I'd give a go on Blatsz32's advice, use an alternate method for updating your bios.
BTW, why did you update in the first place? I mean were there any problems with the version you had?

*@Defected87* I do get some coil whine while games are loading, but not under load when the game actually starts.
Are you positive it's coming from the card and not the assist fans?
The assist fans make a terrible squeaky noise when on high rpm.
Have you maybe set a profile for them to increase speed when temps arise?


----------



## lzepplin01

OK so I've been trying to use the USB BIOS flashback, and all I get is flashing of the button then it goes solid. I have tried three USB sticks now and it doesn't seem to work. I downloaded the bios and renamed it to Z77ST.CAP on all of them and the same thing happened. They were all FAT formatted and the file was in the root directory.
I flashed the BIOS because I have had some instability in the system (not due to the overclock).
The 670 GTX has given some instability and RSODs but that resolved with new ASUS software. I have had a few BSODs as well.

**UPDATE

I managed to put the new BIOS on via bupdate in DOS when booting from the mobo CD. Successfully updated, but nothing changed. Still only seeing 8 GB, still no turbo ratio or internal pll settings.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> OK so I've been trying to use the USB BIOS flashback, and all I get is flashing of the button then it goes solid. I have tried three USB sticks now and it doesn't seem to work. I downloaded the bios and renamed it to Z77ST.CAP on all of them and the same thing happened. They were all FAT formatted and the file was in the root directory.
> I flashed the BIOS because I have had some instability in the system (not due to the overclock).
> The 670 GTX has given some instability and RSODs but that resolved with new ASUS software. I have had a few BSODs as well.


No need to press the button on the back. Just insert the flashdrive in the port marked EZFLASH, go to your bios, last tab, ezflash, find the file, flash, ans voila. My case is huge, ove 100ibs, i nvr felt like turning it around, what I'm getting at is that button, I thought, was a reset button ....so when I was having issues booting after flashing to 1206, I was pressing that thing like it was an ATM cash machine. Well nothing happend. Still not sure what that btton does even though it says BIOS on it. Anyway, just do the flash from the bios.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> No need to press the button on the back. Just insert the flashdrive in the port marked EZFLASH, go to your bios, last tab, ezflash, find the file, flash, ans voila. My case is huge, ove 100ibs, i nvr felt like turning it around, what I'm getting at is that button, I thought, was a reset button ....so when I was having issues booting after flashing to 1206, I was pressing that thing like it was an ATM cash machine. Well nothing happend. Still not sure what that btton does even though it says BIOS on it. Anyway, just do the flash from the bios.


That button is for flashing the Bios wiith the system off, insert properly prepared USB, press button, BIOS updated.


----------



## lzepplin01

@Blatsz32 That's how I usually did it. I have literally tried all of the BIOS versions but nothing has changed. After trying flashing all of the versions in the BIOS, i tried that in DOS also using bupdate. Still no dice









@SPMOkc73 I tried using that but it was just flashing for a few seconds, read the USB, and then went solid. According to ASUS, this means there was some sort of error. Even though I correctly named the file (Z77ST.CAP -- even tried naming them Z77ST.ROM for the heck of it) and everything and the USB is FAT formatted and the file is in the root directory. I have similarly tried all bios versions.

You guys rock


----------



## lzepplin01

Picture in Windoze showing how I cant change the multiplier either -- the option has simply vanished.


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> I suggested a few posts back that peeps should DL the V-Gene software. It seems to be more stable and has alot more things like ProbeII and FanExpertII bundled with it. You might even get a more accurate readout with updated Thermal Armor software.


Blatsz32, Thanks for all your posts. They are very informative and helpful. I just ordered my saber 77 system components from NE, yesterday and am not, yet, familiar with ASUS's new s/w. Please explain what "the *V-Gene* software" is?

thanks


----------



## lzepplin01

I think he is talking about the software for the ASUS Maximus V Gene motherboard.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/Maximus_V_GENE/ (click downloads, select your OS, click utilities, presumably dl and install the newest one)


----------



## Magzire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Defected87*
> 
> I got mine a few weeks ago, beautiful board but is anyone having any issues with loud noises (coil whine?) when the gpu is under load? I've already verified that the GPU is not the problem by testing it out in another system.


I also got this, was driving me nuts. At first thought it was harddrive. But narrowed it down to the PSU. Only happens at idle, just is due to some energy saving mode in the bios, need to disable it.

*""We have seen that the CPU power saving features in the BIOS can cause the PSU to emit the noise. Try disabling these features to see if there is any improvement. C1E and EIST (Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology) are two examples of power saving settings, but your motherboard manufacturer should be able to tell you specifically which features your board supports.

We have also seen that some graphics card drivers can contribute to the sound as well. If the problems seem to get worse when loading a 3D application, try booting your system up into safe mode to see if you can still hear the sound. If the sound goes away, then your problem may be software related. We have found that enabling "vsync" in your graphics drivers options can eliminate the sound."""*

Worked for me!


----------



## apolloroad

What's up guys! Just got done with my first build and I have an ASUS Sabertooth Z77.

Any guides as to how I should setup my BIOS and then after I install windows, any updates?

This is what it looks like so far:


----------



## Defected87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> *@lzepplin01* I think there were reports of the same problem early in this thread.
> I'd give a go on Blatsz32's advice, use an alternate method for updating your bios.
> BTW, why did you update in the first place? I mean were there any problems with the version you had?
> *@Defected87* I do get some coil whine while games are loading, but not under load when the game actually starts.
> Are you positive it's coming from the card and not the assist fans?
> The assist fans make a terrible squeaky noise when on high rpm.
> Have you maybe set a profile for them to increase speed when temps arise?


I dont have the fans so it cannot be that. Is there a speaker installed on the motherboard which is making the noise? I wouldn't have thought so as there's a series of LED's in leiu of the traditional "beeps".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magzire*
> 
> I also got this, was driving me nuts. At first thought it was harddrive. But narrowed it down to the PSU. Only happens at idle, just is due to some energy saving mode in the bios, need to disable it.
> *""We have seen that the CPU power saving features in the BIOS can cause the PSU to emit the noise. Try disabling these features to see if there is any improvement. C1E and EIST (Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology) are two examples of power saving settings, but your motherboard manufacturer should be able to tell you specifically which features your board supports.
> We have also seen that some graphics card drivers can contribute to the sound as well. If the problems seem to get worse when loading a 3D application, try booting your system up into safe mode to see if you can still hear the sound. If the sound goes away, then your problem may be software related. We have found that enabling "vsync" in your graphics drivers options can eliminate the sound."""*
> Worked for me!


Hi,
Thanks for the advice but it hasn't solved the problem. It is coming from the PCI-E area but not the graphics cards. Is there the possibility of any VRMs which power the PCIE slot that are blown?

I made a seperate thread so if anyone wants to read further into the matter please do so here;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1273509/z77-sabertooth-problems#post_17552971

Cheers


----------



## Ithar87

Hey guys, I just completed my build a few days ago and am having some overclocking issues. I can run at 4.2 no problem, and temps are excellent. It's when I try to get to 4.4 or 4.5 that I have issues. I can't seem to get it stable no matter what voltage I run to it, I can get it to run prime, even ran it 8 hrs without a crash at one point, shut down prime and launched a game, crashed 3 times within an hour. Now when I say crash I mean the software crashes, the game shuts off like a light and dumps me at the desktop idling, no warning, no lag, no error messages, nothing, just idling at desktop. I have had it at 4.4 with 1.35v, and it runs prime fine, also runs prime fine with 4.4 @ 1.275, but games will still fail. So it doesn't seem voltage related to me. Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated. Let me give you some basic info to start things off, I have been running these settings; PLL overvoltage enabled, Asus multi core enhancement disabled, spread spectrum disabled, have tried multiple turbo ratio(always synchronized), using an offset voltage along with various LLC settings, manually set ddr timings, manually set memory frequency. I believe that is all I have messed with.


----------



## jahcson

You may be interested to look at GURU3D, Ithar87:

Overclocking with Ivy Bridge processors

It may be talking about the Sabertooth Z77 and i7 3770K but you are being pointed in the right direction. hope this helps.

As for you apolloroad, check for those needed asus updates here below - just type in Sabertooth Z77.
For Sabertooth Z77 updates

Good luck - I see you are living in a blue world.


----------



## jahcson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hi all!
> Just got my Sabertooth a couple of weeks ago and upgraded to a 3570K yesterday!
> Just wanted to say hello after having a quick read of this thread and also ask a couple of minor questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. What sort of idle temps are people getting on thermal radar points? because a couple of mine seem to me to be a little high, especially the USB 3.0 which right now is sitting at 49C
> 2. has anyone done any testing on mounting the Assist fans in different directions? for instance I'm wondering if having the face fan blowing air in under the thermal armor means I should have the I/O fan sucking air out instead of also blowing air in.
> I have configured all my fans to run at speeds that are aurally comfortable but by no means silent, however they seem to be generally lower than the standard settings except on my case intake fans which are basically silent anyway.
> Edit: I only found out today why they give us a second, spare I/O Assist fan mount cover. I don't really understand why if a 40mm fan will fit there they only supply a 35mm. I guess its easier to have both fans the same size?
> Does anyone have any leads on where to get a good quality 40mm fan? I would assume that being slightly bigger it could move more air with less noise. I did find several on ebay that would work but most of them were very low powered and slow speed and the one high speed model I could find was very expensive.
> Thanks y'all


Here's a pic om my temps - my system has been on today for a good 12 hours and actually it's today that I installed AI Suite II. Been keeping an eye on the temps since I manually adjusted my front and top 200mm fans - my temps are these. They've been stable for 5-6 hours.


I've also been looking into getting the 40mm fan that way I'll have a spare when I need it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awhlui*
> 
> Hi, I have a very slow internet connection problem with the Asus Sabertooth Z77 even with the Asus Inetwork control turned off. The strange thing is when I do speedtest (speedtest.net) its quite fast (100mbps down/80mbps up). but when I actually put it to use with softwares that require fast internet connections, the speed never exceeds 2mbps download (this is after testing it on multiple softwares...etc including something as simple as watching youtube video on my browser -- very very slow speed). I have another older computer connected the same way and no issues with internet speed whatsoever. I have updated the Lan driver already and still no help. I thot there maybe something wrong with the Lan card built into this motherboard, so I went out to get a new Lan card, still the same issue. I have now spent about a week on this and still no improvement.
> Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.


I've read people here complain about the Network iControl software that comes with the AI Suite II - blaming it for such issues - I personally will not mess with my connection by using it. Even before I read the bad reviews about it I was never really considering installing the Network iControl software.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithar87*
> 
> I have had it at 4.4 with 1.35v, and it runs prime fine, also runs prime fine with 4.4 @ 1.275, but games will still fail.


It must be that you are overvolting.

Try out these settings
Asus multi core enhancement: enabled
Turbo ratio: manual
Multi:45
Vcore: Offset -0.005 to +0.010
vPLL: 1.675 to 1.725
LLC: High
Cpu current capability : 140%
Speedstep, C1E : enabled



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## radar54

What does Network iControl do? By the way, I noticed that ASUS came out with an update on 6/21/12.

Also, can you install AI Sute II WITHOUT installing Network iControl?


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> What does Network iControl do? By the way, I noticed that ASUS came out with an update on 6/21/12.
> 
> Also, can you install AI Sute II WITHOUT installing Network iControl?


You can do a custom and install just only the modules you want...you don't have to install everything


----------



## Ithar87

I tried your recommended settings and got instant bsod upon starting prime. Increased offset to .030 and it ran prime(didn't have much time to test), then launched Arkham City benchmark test and got instant freeze like I was before. Voltage seems to have no impact, high or low.


----------



## Magzire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> What does Network iControl do? By the way, I noticed that ASUS came out with an update on 6/21/12.
> 
> Also, can you install AI Sute II WITHOUT installing Network iControl?


Dont even attempt to install. its a lot crap, killed my upload speed and caused a extremely slow lan connection to my other computer


----------



## atinoco

Hello all Add me to the club, I'm loving my new build with the Sabertooth Z77, will post pics soon, my rig it's in my Signature, just wanted to share some feedback one the G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10Q-16GTX kit, so you all know my experience with them....G.skill has them on their website on their QVL List, but they were not stable on the system using just the XMP profile, (had to raise the voltage the 1.75 to get them to work) so if you are looking for RAM that's easy to setup stay away from it. If you are considering it read this review 1st, I wish I had before I purchased them : G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade

I replaced them for CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M4X1866C9R and all my problems are gone....my system was 100% stable at stock speeds (3.9 GHZ) just by using the XMP profile and it's also stable even with a 4.5 Ghz Overclock on the CPU, So I'm super happy with my new ram choice now...

my newegg review on the G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10Q-16GT with the manufacturer response, I don't understand my they put that ram in a QVL List if it requires further tweaks to work:
Quote:


> Pros:
> *Was not defective (passed memtest and Windows 7 Memory Test).
> 
> *Great Look
> 
> Cons:
> *They were not stable on my Asus Sabertooh Z77 motherboard using the XMP profile. Windows crashed right away while running benchmarks.
> 
> *G.skill has them in their Website as QVL Tested for the Asus Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard, I was expecting them to work without tweaks using the XMP Profile.
> 
> Other Thoughts:
> My system it's brand new, latest Asus Bios, all at stock settings, default bios settings.....NO OC at all, I'm very disappointed.
> 
> I got these to work at the rated DDR3-2400 after doing some research and raising the Ram Voltage to 1.75, google for the review at "atomicmpc" titled "G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade" dated May 25, 2012, it's all there...
> 
> G.skill should remove Asus Sabertooh Z77 motherboard from their QVL List, since it's not a plug an play setup on this motherboard , and save people some time and frustration....
> 
> I was looking for a ram that would work using the XMP profile, with no tweaks...I wanted to focus only on a future CPU OC....so these are going back...going to play it safe and get 1.5Volt Corsair Vengeance Ram, sorry G.Skill but that's what I call a /Fail
> 
> I Wish I had seen that atomicmpc review before I purchased, that would have saved me a lot of time
> 
> Asus Sabertooh Z77 + Intel i7 3770K + Corsair H100 + This Ram
> 
> Manufacturer Response:
> 
> .
> Dear Customer
> 
> We are sorry to hear you are having issues reaching the rated specifications. The memory should work well with that motherboard and CPU, so it is strange you are having problems. This is a multi-channel, extreme performance kit, so tweaks may be necessary to fully stabilize the system. XMP will configure basic memory settings, but voltage adjustments are commonly necessary to stabilize the memory controller (CPU). Since you are having issues, please contact the G.Skill technical support team for assistance. We will make sure the memory is working flawlessly in your system.
> 
> Thank you
> GSKILL SUPPORT
> 
> Quality and customer service are our top priorities.
> 
> Tech Support Email: [email protected]
> RMA Dept Email: [email protected]
> G.Skill Forum: http://www.gskill.us/forum/


----------



## radar54

I will be starting my build as soon as the parts arrive from Newegg. In the meantime, does anyone have experience with a *Sabertooth Z77* and this G.Skill RAM: *F3-12800CL10D-16GBXL* (2x8GB)?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithar87*
> 
> I tried your recommended settings and got instant bsod upon starting prime. Increased offset to .030 and it ran prime(didn't have much time to test), then launched Arkham City benchmark test and got instant freeze like I was before. Voltage seems to have no impact, high or low.


Ithar, 1.35v is a lot for a 4.4 overclock.on a 3570k. At 1.38v I can run mine at 4.6. Try 1.28v and also check your RAM voltage and overclock. If you have to overclock with the BCLK. Mines at 102 and multiplier at 45 1.28v atm.

Also, LLC at 50% that will help


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magzire*
> 
> Dont even attempt to install. its a lot crap, killed my upload speed and cost a extremely slow lan connection to my other computer


Actually, the new update seems to be working fine. Actually, my downloads seem to be a bit faster, not super fast. I did review the update a few posts back. The fixed something because it's working now. I'm having no issues at all with it.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Hello all Add me to the club, I'm loving my new build with the Sabertooth Z77, will post pics soon, my rig it's in my Signature, just wanted to share some feedback one the G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10Q-16GTX kit, so you all know my experience with them....G.skill has them on their website on their QVL List, but they were not stable on the system using just the XMP profile, (had to raise the voltage the 1.75 to get them to work) so if you are looking for RAM that's easy to setup stay away from it. If you are considering it read this review 1st, I wish I had before I purchased them : G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade
> I replaced them for CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M4X1866C9R and all my problems are gone....my system was 100% stable at stock speeds (3.9 GHZ) just by using the XMP profile and it's also stable even with a 4.5 Ghz Overclock on the CPU, So I'm super happy with my new ram choice now...
> my newegg review on the G.SKILL Trident X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C10Q-16GT with the manufacturer response, I don't understand my they put that ram in a QVL List if it requires further tweaks to work:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Pros:
> *Was not defective (passed memtest and Windows 7 Memory Test).
> *Great Look
> Cons:
> *They were not stable on my Asus Sabertooh Z77 motherboard using the XMP profile. Windows crashed right away while running benchmarks.
> *G.skill has them in their Website as QVL Tested for the Asus Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard, I was expecting them to work without tweaks using the XMP Profile.
> Other Thoughts:
> My system it's brand new, latest Asus Bios, all at stock settings, default bios settings.....NO OC at all, I'm very disappointed.
> I got these to work at the rated DDR3-2400 after doing some research and raising the Ram Voltage to 1.75, google for the review at "atomicmpc" titled "G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade" dated May 25, 2012, it's all there...
> G.skill should remove Asus Sabertooh Z77 motherboard from their QVL List, since it's not a plug an play setup on this motherboard , and save people some time and frustration....
> I was looking for a ram that would work using the XMP profile, with no tweaks...I wanted to focus only on a future CPU OC....so these are going back...going to play it safe and get 1.5Volt Corsair Vengeance Ram, sorry G.Skill but that's what I call a /Fail
> I Wish I had seen that atomicmpc review before I purchased, that would have saved me a lot of time
> Asus Sabertooh Z77 + Intel i7 3770K + Corsair H100 + This Ram
Click to expand...

I have the exact same ram 16 gigs DDR3-2400 Trident X. Here is the issue im going to guarantee you ran into...when the board first came out it was NOT on the QVL for the Sabertooth and that was apparent by the missing xmp profile in earlier bios's since 1015 there have been TWO xmp profiles for Trident X one xmp profile is for ddr3-2401 speed (which btw is NOT the profile to use) and the other is for ddr3-2399 (this is the one to read.) The later of the two profiles is the one you want to use as it is the proper xmp profile...IMO they should remove the 2401 cause it does not work at all (atleast for me.) Even tho it says 2399 it reports as 2400 here is a shot from cpu-z showing the xmp profile being used and 2400 speeds:



i have a 3770k, corsair H100, plus that ram and it works fine in xmp mode. Who you should be upset with is ASUS/yourself for not trying the 2399 xmp profile which is the recommended one. Same with the user above....these ram work just fine with xmp.


----------



## lzepplin01

Well, I've figured out that at least my second memory controller is bad. A2 and B2 just don't recognize chips. RMA it is. :-( I hope this doesn't take forever...

In the mean time, I was wondering what people were getting for OCs with the 3570k on air (or liquid, for that matter!). I could get the thing up to 42x multiplier and 105 on the bus stably, but anything beyond that was not stable for sure. I believe my vcore was around 1.2, and vcore changes didn't much help above that for higher clock stability. Plus I was hitting 80s on prime beyond 1.2 vcore. But that was the only voltage I fiddled with, or really knew anything about. Can anyone recommend changing any other settings to achieve higher speeds or am I maxing out this chip on air (zalman cooler as well)?


----------



## WivZ

Does Asus Sabertooth Z77 has Case Badge/Sticker? If yes, where can I get it??


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> Does Asus Sabertooth Z77 has Case Badge/Sticker? If yes, where can I get it??


It came with your motherboard inside the box.


----------



## WivZ

I mean the sabertooth/TUF logo case badge, not the big sticker that provided in the box. The one like the Asus sticker that provided in the installation cd case..


----------



## unityispower

My first build.
Part list(*=still need)
Case: Cooler Master 690 II
CPU: i5 3570K
Cooler: H100*
GPU: GTX 670*
Sound: Xonar Essence STX*
RAM: Corsair Vng 8GB 1600
Mobo: Sabertooth Z77
SSD: Corsair F-GT 120GB
PS: Corsair TX650V2
Fans: Cougar Vortex*
Drives: Asus DVD burner and Asus BR Reader
OS: W 7 Ult*

Screen: Asus VS247H-P
Keyboard: Logitech K800
Mouse: R.A.T. 9
Headphones: Ultrasone DJ1 and HFI-780










Yes, that is a stock cooler :|





LOL at cable management.. I'm working on it











At idle.

Extra

I'm going to cut the side panel and install a window



I'm going to install a fan on the other side panel to push air out of the case.


At 4.2, running prime with stock cooler=


^I just started and stopped it... don't feel comfortable letting it run too long, LOL.


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> I will be starting my build as soon as the parts arrive from Newegg. In the meantime, does anyone have experience with a *Sabertooth Z77* and this G.Skill RAM: *F3-12800CL10D-16GBXL* (2x8GB)?


Wow!!! I ordered the parts for my build on June 23 and they are being delivered TODAY (June 26).

*Newegg ROCKS!!!!! *


----------



## jam3s

I just picked up the Sabertooth.

Also ordered on the 22nd and it's being delivered today.

Same with my 7970.


----------



## lzepplin01

Nice build! Noticed you are getting a 670 gtx... I would highly recommend the asus directcu2 670... Great card. Just make sure it's NOT the top version, the factory over clock has been very unstable and it looks like the chips were not actually binned higher. And get the latest software on their site!
Love the card... 2 fans and real over clocking potential. My clocks were 7200 ram and 1100 gpu without changing voltages. Future proof.


----------



## atinoco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> I have the exact same ram 16 gigs DDR3-2400 Trident X. Here is the issue im going to guarantee you ran into...when the board first came out it was NOT on the QVL for the Sabertooth and that was apparent by the missing xmp profile in earlier bios's since 1015 there have been TWO xmp profiles for Trident X one xmp profile is for ddr3-2401 speed (which btw is NOT the profile to use) and the other is for ddr3-2399 (this is the one to read.) The later of the two profiles is the one you want to use as it is the proper xmp profile...IMO they should remove the 2401 cause it does not work at all (atleast for me.) Even tho it says 2399 it reports as 2400 here is a shot from cpu-z showing the xmp profile being used and 2400 speeds:
> 
> i have a 3770k, corsair H100, plus that ram and it works fine in xmp mode. Who you should be upset with is ASUS/yourself for not trying the 2399 xmp profile which is the recommended one. Same with the user above....these ram work just fine with xmp.


Thanks for the reply.... I think i gave that second XMP profile a try here one time without luck, but I'm not 100% sure....I still got the G.Skill 16 gig DDR3-2400 Trident X Kit here...going to try those again with that second profile and will update everyone my results....


----------



## nike23osu

yes just make sure you use the 2399 xmp profile and not the 2401...sounds like you need to up the volts for the 2401 which i prefer not to. The 2399 xmp profile definatly works tho without any modification atleast for me with that ram, havent had one issue, id make sure you are on the latest bios as well should be 1206 i believe.


----------



## Tarout

I recently purchased one of these mother boards and have a question about hooking up two video cards. I have two Asus HD 7750 video cards currently in slots 1 and 2 (top and middle of mobo). I am only able to get video out of the video card in slot two. The video cards do not have sli connectors and i was just wondering how if possible i can get both of these cards to work.

Specs:

Sabertooth Z77- Motherboard
Asus HD 7750 x 2 - Video Cards
Crucial 4 gb x 2 - Ram
Intel Core i7 2600k 3.4ghz - Sandy Bridge Processor
120 GB OCZ SSD
Zalman 135mm long life bearing CPU Cooler
Cool Master Gladiator 600 Case
Antec HCG 750 psu
Win 7 Professional 64bit


----------



## Coubs

Hi everybody.
I know I'm new here and asking for help in your very first post is usually frowned upon in the forums where I normally reside but Asus don't seem to want to respond to the ten second question I posed and to be honest, talking to other owners is probably a much better idea anyway.

I've just bought a load of new pc kit as a congratulations to myself for giving up smoking and as I've always had Asus boards since 2003ish I thought I'd splash on one of their top ones. So, with almost everything mounted in the case, I have a really stupid question before I boot it all up for the first time. There is what looks like that protective plastic film stuff over the chipset or Southbridge (whichever the one stamped with the Asus logo is) and my brain is saying 'remove it, it'll melt' but I wanted to know if you are supposed to. The manual/google has offered me no help so far.

As I said, stupid question but this is my first ever build from scratch rather than buying a Mobo-cpu bundle.

Thanks in advance,


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coubs*
> 
> Hi everybody.
> I know I'm new here and asking for help in your very first post is usually frowned upon in the forums where I normally reside but Asus don't seem to want to respond to the ten second question I posed and to be honest, talking to other owners is probably a much better idea anyway.
> I've just bought a load of new pc kit as a congratulations to myself for giving up smoking and as I've always had Asus boards since 2003ish I thought I'd splash on one of their top ones. So, with almost everything mounted in the case, I have a really stupid question before I boot it all up for the first time. There is what looks like that protective plastic film stuff over the chipset or Southbridge (whichever the one stamped with the Asus logo is) and my brain is saying 'remove it, it'll melt' but I wanted to know if you are supposed to. The manual/google has offered me no help so far.
> As I said, stupid question but this is my first ever build from scratch rather than buying a Mobo-cpu bundle.
> Thanks in advance,


It's just protective cover peel it of . Then your good to go.


----------



## Coubs

Thanks for that. I literally cannot wait to get this beast up and running and try my hand at pushing 4ghz+ from the Ivy.


----------



## Costfree

For some reason im confused on how to OC on this board


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coubs*
> 
> Thanks for that. I literally cannot wait to get this beast up and running and try my hand at pushing 4ghz+ from the Ivy.


Enjoy your new toys


----------



## Poimandres

I just built a new machine with the sabertooth and had some older 120mm from my p35 build and the fan headers are now 4 wire instead of 3 so I pulled off the third wire (yellow) and pushed the connector on terminating to the ground and power to run the one fan straight out. My question is when I Reboot the machine I get a CPU fan error and it appears that it cannot read the rpm and them the rpm goes in and out (I am using the stock cooler and paste, does this just push straight on and snap in or do I need to turn it to smear the paste?) and I am not sure if this is an issue with the sabertooth or if my old case fan is causing the problem? Any help on all of these issues is greatly appreciated.


----------



## greg1184

I have an issue with this board. The A1 and A2 slots do not detect memory. If I have a RAM installed on either of these two slots, the memory red LED will stay on and the system will not post.

On the other hand, when I have the same sticks on B1 and/or B2, the system will post perfectly fine. From what I read in other forums, I may have to reseat my processor. The last thing I want to do is RMA the motherboard. Anyone else have this issue with this board?

I have 4 4GB G.Skill red sticks.


----------



## Blatsz32

There have been a few boards with memory slot and pci slot issues. The end result, they had to be returned. There are a couple posts that detail the issue and how they were resolved. All ended in RMA. Unfortunately ASUS is aware of the issue on some of the boards. I suggest contacting ASUS. I

I've also noticed that alot og the issues seem to be mem slot issues with G-Skill. I wonder if thats a coincidence


----------



## Arizonian

Z77 Sabertooth with GSkill Trident X 2400 running XMP profile with no issues here on ASUS 2401 BIOS.

Hard to pin point with many variables.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> There have been a few boards with memory slot and pci slot issues. The end result, they had to be returned. There are a couple posts that detail the issue and how they were resolved. All ended in RMA. Unfortunately ASUS is aware of the issue on some of the boards. I suggest contacting ASUS. I
> I've also noticed that alot og the issues seem to be mem slot issues with G-Skill. I wonder if thats a coincidence


I don't think it is a gskill problem because I seen other people with Corsair's have a similar issue. I am within Buy.com's return period so I am going to RMA it there.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1184*
> 
> I have an issue with this board. The A1 and A2 slots do not detect memory. If I have a RAM installed on either of these two slots, the memory red LED will stay on and the system will not post.
> On the other hand, when I have the same sticks on B1 and/or B2, the system will post perfectly fine. From what I read in other forums, I may have to reseat my processor. The last thing I want to do is RMA the motherboard. Anyone else have this issue with this board?
> I have 4 4GB G.Skill red sticks.


When the red mem light comes on push and hold it down till it flashes the computer will auto reboot and boot the ram at 1333 then you go into bios and change it to the proper xmp profile to run them at proper speed.


----------



## greg1184

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> When the red mem light comes on push and hold it down till it flashes the computer will auto reboot and boot the ram at 1333 then you go into bios and change it to the proper xmp profile to run them at proper speed.


Unfortunately, I have tried that multiple times. The MEM light blinks, the computer restarts, and then fails to post with the red light again.


----------



## lzepplin01

Sounds like an RMA bud, I just had an issue with A2 and B2, amongst other things. I had G.skill 4x4 as well. RMA in the works.
Although that's a bit strange since A1 and A2 use different memory controllers, so that rules out the controller being bad if B1 and B2 are still good. Unless I'm mistaken, A1 and B1 use the same controllers and A2 and B2 use the same controllers as well. At least that's what the dude on Asus tech support told me...


----------



## unityispower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Nice build! Noticed you are getting a 670 gtx... I would highly recommend the asus directcu2 670... Great card. Just make sure it's NOT the top version, the factory over clock has been very unstable and it looks like the chips were not actually binned higher. And get the latest software on their site!
> Love the card... 2 fans and real over clocking potential. My clocks were 7200 ram and 1100 gpu without changing voltages. Future proof.


I'm going for the EVGA FTW, ~$420. I don't plan to overclock the video card.


----------



## lzepplin01

Nice! Can't wait to see the update on your build!!


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Im still wondering if it is possible to make it so when I turn the pc off with this mobo the usb ports will also get power cut from them?


----------



## Poimandres

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Poimandres*
> 
> I just built a new machine with the sabertooth and had some older 120mm from my p35 build and the fan headers are now 4 wire instead of 3 so I pulled off the third wire (yellow) and pushed the connector on terminating to the ground and power to run the one fan straight out. My question is when I Reboot the machine I get a CPU fan error and it appears that it cannot read the rpm and them the rpm goes in and out (I am using the stock cooler and paste, does this just push straight on and snap in or do I need to turn it to smear the paste?) and I am not sure if this is an issue with the sabertooth or if my old case fan is causing the problem? Any help on all of these issues is greatly appreciated.


Does anyone have any insight?


----------



## navit

Have you tried a different fan?


----------



## atinoco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> I have the exact same ram 16 gigs DDR3-2400 Trident X. Here is the issue im going to guarantee you ran into...when the board first came out it was NOT on the QVL for the Sabertooth and that was apparent by the missing xmp profile in earlier bios's since 1015 there have been TWO xmp profiles for Trident X one xmp profile is for ddr3-2401 speed (which btw is NOT the profile to use) and the other is for ddr3-2399 (this is the one to read.) The later of the two profiles is the one you want to use as it is the proper xmp profile...IMO they should remove the 2401 cause it does not work at all (atleast for me.) Even tho it says 2399 it reports as 2400 here is a shot from cpu-z showing the xmp profile being used and 2400 speeds:
> 
> i have a 3770k, corsair H100, plus that ram and it works fine in xmp mode. Who you should be upset with is ASUS/yourself for not trying the 2399 xmp profile which is the recommended one. Same with the user above....these ram work just fine with xmp.


Decided to give the G.Skill DDR3-2400 Trident X 16 GB another chance, btw I'm using Bios 1206 (the latest), loaded bios defaults (to get rid of my 4.5 OC) and set XMP profile #2 as suggested 

Windows loaded and I fired up Intel Burn in test (very high) and it completely FROZE my system in the second pass, I hit reset and it froze again while loading windows....Reset again, and froze again loading windows....

went into the bios *raised the Dram Voltage to 1.75*, and windows loadedfine , ran IBT and passed 10 runs:


so all i can say it's the MY experience with these using both XMP profiles it's not good, i can't get these to run stable with XMP 1 or 2 without further tweaks (raise Dram Voltage to1.75), I also tried manually raising VCCSA to 1.25V (i read that in the g.skill forums), and no luck....so basically I'm getting the same experience they got on this review: G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade , I wanted to like this ram....i was kinda expecting it to work using just the XMP profile like other people here say they do, and they didn't.... Not sure what's the deal here, but since i switched ram to the Corsair Vengeance 1866 1.5V 4 x 4 GB Ram Kit all is working as expected even with a 4.5 GHZ OC on the CPU.

thats MY experience, seems like other people here have them running at 2400 with just XMP 1 and XMP 2 profiles just fine.....like I said before my only goal is to share MY experience so other people can save time and frustration....


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Decided to give the G.Skill DDR3-2400 Trident X 16 GB another chance, btw I'm using Bios 1206 (the latest), loaded bios defaults (to get rid of my 4.5 OC) and set XMP profile #2 as suggested
> Windows loaded and I fired up Intel Burn in test (very high) and it completely FROZE my system in the second pass, I hit reset and it froze again while loading windows....Reset again, and froze again loading windows....
> went into the bios *raised the Dram Voltage to 1.75*, and windows loadedfine , ran IBT and passed 10 runs:
> 
> so all i can say it's the MY experience with these using both XMP profiles it's not good, i can't get these to run stable with XMP 1 or 2 without further tweaks (raise Dram Voltage to1.75), I also tried manually raising VCCSA to 1.25V (i read that in the g.skill forums), and no luck....so basically I'm getting the same experience they got on this review: G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade , I wanted to like this ram....i was kinda expecting it to work using just the XMP profile like other people here say they do, and they didn't.... Not sure what's the deal here, but since i switched ram to the Corsair Vengeance 1866 1.5V 4 x 4 GB Ram Kit all is working as expected even with a 4.5 GHZ OC on the CPU.
> thats MY experience, seems like other people here have them running at 2400 with just XMP 1 and XMP 2 profiles just fine.....like I said before my only goal is to share MY experience so other people can save time and frustration....


Thank you Atin, very helpful to those in the situation you were in. I was going to suggest to those that were having the prob to raise RAM voltages but it just didn't seem like a great idea to pass 1.65v. Anyway, I think it's still great that you posted your experience, it maybe a resolution for peeps that are running into this issue. +rep


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Decided to give the G.Skill DDR3-2400 Trident X 16 GB another chance, btw I'm using Bios 1206 (the latest), loaded bios defaults (to get rid of my 4.5 OC) and set XMP profile #2 as suggested
> Windows loaded and I fired up Intel Burn in test (very high) and it completely FROZE my system in the second pass, I hit reset and it froze again while loading windows....Reset again, and froze again loading windows....
> went into the bios *raised the Dram Voltage to 1.75*, and windows loadedfine , ran IBT and passed 10 runs:
> 
> so all i can say it's the MY experience with these using both XMP profiles it's not good, i can't get these to run stable with XMP 1 or 2 without further tweaks (raise Dram Voltage to1.75), I also tried manually raising VCCSA to 1.25V (i read that in the g.skill forums), and no luck....so basically I'm getting the same experience they got on this review: G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade , I wanted to like this ram....i was kinda expecting it to work using just the XMP profile like other people here say they do, and they didn't.... Not sure what's the deal here, but since i switched ram to the Corsair Vengeance 1866 1.5V 4 x 4 GB Ram Kit all is working as expected even with a 4.5 GHZ OC on the CPU.
> thats MY experience, seems like other people here have them running at 2400 with just XMP 1 and XMP 2 profiles just fine.....like I said before my only goal is to share MY experience so other people can save time and frustration....


Sounds like you got some bum sticks then. Have you gotten them replaced by G.Skill? You do not/should not need to touch the voltages to run at those speeds. Getting a bum product happens in electronics, if you look back i got a Sabertooth that would only run my vid card at x4 speed instead of x16. I replaced the board and am awaiting rma for the broken one then will help a friend with the board they send me back. This is my first time with G.Skill i got them just as a switch up, previously i had Dominator GT's (have always been a corsair guy for ram) and so far i have seen no difference from the two companies id buy from either again. I would make G.Skill replace the sticks and your problem should be solved.


----------



## atinoco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Z77 Sabertooth with GSkill Trident X 2400 running XMP profile with no issues here on ASUS 2401 BIOS.
> Hard to pin point with many variables.


Hey buddy , *ASUS 2401 BIOS*? there's no such thing in the asus website:
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

can you check that?

latest is

Version 1206
Description SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1206
1.Improve Improve system stability.
2.Improve memory compatibility.
3.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
File Size
4,5 (MBytes) 2012.06.08 update


----------



## unityispower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Decided to give the G.Skill DDR3-2400 Trident X 16 GB another chance, btw I'm using Bios 1206 (the latest), loaded bios defaults (to get rid of my 4.5 OC) and set XMP profile #2 as suggested


How do you take a screen pic of your BIOS?


----------



## lzepplin01

F12


----------



## unityispower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Nice! Can't wait to see the update on your build!!


I hope it turns out good... not too happy with the performance. From what I was reading, I was actually expecting it to run a bit faster.









Sweet... it was on the pic but just wanted to make sure. Does it save it to your Documents folder?


----------



## atinoco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> Sounds like you got some bum sticks then. Have you gotten them replaced by G.Skill? You do not/should not need to touch the voltages to run at those speeds. Getting a bum product happens in electronics, if you look back i got a Sabertooth that would only run my vid card at x4 speed instead of x16. I replaced the board and am awaiting rma for the broken one then will help a friend with the board they send me back. This is my first time with G.Skill i got them just as a switch up, previously i had Dominator GT's (have always been a corsair guy for ram) and so far i have seen no difference from the two companies id buy from either again. I would make G.Skill replace the sticks and your problem should be solved.


I agree, getting a Bum product it's a possibility, however they pass memtestx86 and windows memory test at 2400 Mhz and 1.65V using XMP 1 and 2, so they are not "defective" i guess, they just freeze windows if voltage it's at 1.65V..... they seems to work fine when volts are increased to 1.75....also my experience is the same at the one on this review G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade, I guess they got a Bum product also, so go figure... if that's the case then G.Skill Quality Control is to blame.....All i can say is that If I had read that review I would have not bought them at all....but i bought them before the review was published.

I'd replace them for another kit if I lived in the US, but I live in Venezuela South America...I buy this parts in the USA and have them shipped via a private forwarder, so it's an extra cost to send them back to check if it's really a Bum product, My best option it's to sell them at cost down here or keep them running at 1.75V

I'm testing them with the same CPU 4.5 Ghz Overclock I had with my Other Corsair Vengeance 1866 Kit .......as I write this....they have passed 35/100 Runs of IBT @ Very High Level, but that's with Dram Volts 1.75V and VCCSA to 1.25V....they seems to work fine but only with increased volts, will post the SS when i completes.


----------



## PA99

The RAM issues are interesting. This may not sound very helpful at all so sorry








I've matched a few Asus boards now with various types of corsair RAM. They've always been a perfect match for me.
It's a bit boring maybe but they always just work !

Anyhow , good luck , still loving the new sabertooth.


----------



## radar54

All this talk about testing got me to wondering why the ASUS guy on Newegg TV says to NOT use Prime95 to test your system?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> All this talk about testing got me to wondering why the ASUS guy on Newegg TV says to NOT use Prime95 to test your system?


I have seen that also. I started using IBT to test then the actual games I play. IBT usually shows 5-10C higher than anything I see while gaming so I figure good enough/


----------



## atinoco

Just wanted you guys to know the G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz 16 GB 4 x 4 GB Kit passed IBT 100 Runs on Very High with my 4.5 GHz Overclock also, again in order to get my kit stable at DDr3 2400 (XMP 2 Profile) I had to up the Volts to 1.75....I'm disappointed my my kit was not stable at 1.65 volts and just the XMP Profile, but i guess at least it works....


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> Just wanted you guys to know the G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz 16 GB 4 x 4 GB Kit passed IBT 100 Runs on Very High with my 4.5 GHz Overclock also, again in order to get my kit stable at DDr3 2400 (XMP 2 Profile) I had to up the Volts to 1.75....I'm disappointed my my kit was not stable at 1.65 volts and just the XMP Profile, but i guess at least it works....


At 1.75v won't the RAM get quite hot? Asking because I'm new to overclocking.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unityispower*
> 
> Does it save it to your Documents folder?


I don't remember, my board is being RMAed at the moment. I believe it asks you where you want to save it to when you press F12 though.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atinoco*
> 
> I agree, getting a Bum product it's a possibility, however they pass memtestx86 and windows memory test at 2400 Mhz and 1.65V using XMP 1 and 2, so they are not "defective" i guess, they just freeze windows if voltage it's at 1.65V..... they seems to work fine when volts are increased to 1.75....also my experience is the same at the one on this review G.SKILL Trident X 2400MHz Ram Review - not up to enthusiast grade, I guess they got a Bum product also, so go figure... if that's the case then G.Skill Quality Control is to blame.....All i can say is that If I had read that review I would have not bought them at all....but i bought them before the review was published.


I see the same with any product, you can see the reviews and theres always some with ANY product that have issues. You have 4 people including myself reporting no issues and certainly not over volting our ram to hit 2400 as specified by the ram. You really shouldnt have to overvolt the ram to hit 2400.


----------



## JYJelly

Hey guys,

Are your thermal radar cpu temps accurate? I did an IBT test and the CPU temperature in thermal radar stayed under 40 C while hwmonitor and coretemp shows it in high 50s while IBT is running. Is there any way I can fix this? I have my radiator fans on a fan curve with thermal radar and they don't ramp up at all when they should based on the temps.


----------



## HiTEMUPxx

Hey guys im building a new computer i got a 'SABERTOOTH z77' motherboard, I have an' H100 CORSAIR CPU' cooler I bought 4 'NOCTUA NF-F12 PWM' fan's so that it is an push pull config and was wondering would it be better to install the PWM fans into the motherboard pins or into the H100 built-in fan controller???
Thanks


----------



## Ickz

Just finished a build and I'm liking the board so far. I'm running my 3770k at 4.5/4.6ghz, but not sure if my settings are optimal. Does anyone know if there's a guide anywhere for 3770k oc'ing on the sabertooth?


----------



## cwaters425

I am in the process of building my first PC by myself. I am familiar with most everything, but wanted to give it a try on my own this time. The question I have is this. I swapped out the corsair stock fans in my 600t. I put a spectre pro 200mm as intake in the front and a spectre pro 120mm as exhaust in the rear. I jumped the PSU and plugged in the fans to test them and everything worked as planned. I then installed the corsair h100 rad (i didnt hook up the CPU cooler because I still need to get my processor) and replaced the stock fans with noctua nf-f12's. I wanted to try and test the noctua fans as well. I plugged in the CPU power and 24pin cable and then plugged each noctua fan into a 4pin header on the mobo. I was hoping i would be able to atleast get the fans going to test them and make sure all is well, but nothing happened. The green power LED on the mobo came on, so I know the board has power. Please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but do i need to have a CPU installed for me to test the noctua fans I have on my h100? Also, the z77 assist fans didn't come on either. Thanks in advanced for any advice.

-Chris


----------



## jam3s

This board is by far the best looking board I've ever owned.

Hopefully I can OC like a champ.

Running 4.3GHz for the time being


----------



## ths61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTEMUPxx*
> 
> ... I bought 4 'NOCTUA NF-F12 PWM' fan's so that it is an push pull config and was wondering would it be better to install the PWM fans into the motherboard pins or into the H100 built-in fan controller???
> Thanks


Great question.

The Sabertooth Z77 has only 2 CPU fan headers of which the H100 will use one of them. This leaves 1 open CPU fan header available to dynamically adjust based on load.

I think you could only get by with placing one fan on the MoBo and the others on the H100 controller if you want dynamic control.


----------



## HiTEMUPxx

Hey thanks very much for the information.


----------



## Magzire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTEMUPxx*
> 
> Hey guys im building a new computer i got a 'SABERTOOTH z77' motherboard, I have an' H100 CORSAIR CPU' cooler I bought 4 'NOCTUA NF-F12 PWM' fan's so that it is an push pull config and was wondering would it be better to install the PWM fans into the motherboard pins or into the H100 built-in fan controller???
> Thanks


The H100 has four slots for fans. Thats the normal way to do it, fan controller would be even better.


----------



## Alligatorblood

1. is the sabertooth more a matt black or a glossy black?

2. whats the best way to mount the h100 fans if you got 4? to the fan controller pre build on to the h100 or a after market fan controller?

3. whats the amour like on the board does it cool it down better than a mobo without it?

4. anyone had any problems with the z77?

5. as a mobo whats it like to live with? easy bios.. easy to understand?

thanks for the help


----------



## atinoco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ickz*
> 
> Just finished a build and I'm liking the board so far. I'm running my 3770k at 4.5/4.6ghz, but not sure if my settings are optimal. Does anyone know if there's a guide anywhere for 3770k oc'ing on the sabertooth?


Here's the most useful guides / links I've found


**Ivy Bridge Overclocking Guide**

ASUS Z77 Motherboards UEFI OC guides

Asus Z77 Series Information Thread (drivers, BIOSes, overclocking, reviews)

I hope they are useful


----------



## Cutterschoice

Hey guys, i'm looking to order this board in a couple of hours, i just wanted to ask about the fan speed in bios. Is it possible to edit them, as in slow them down, i have 180mm fans i like to run really slow to keep my computer quite, the Formula V i'm currently running allows me to set a duty mode at 60% which is just about perfect, does this board allow for this?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## greg1184

The DIMM problem was indeed a defective board. I bought another one and it posts perfectly.


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cutterschoice*
> 
> Hey guys, i'm looking to order this board in a couple of hours, i just wanted to ask about the fan speed in bios. Is it possible to edit them, as in slow them down, i have 180mm fans i like to run really slow to keep my computer quite, the Formula V i'm currently running allows me to set a duty mode at 60% which is just about perfect, does this board allow for this?
> Thanks for any help.


Yes it is possible to reduce speeds and define your own fan speed curve using the software included


----------



## Cutterschoice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> Yes it is possible to reduce speeds and define your own fan speed curve using the software included


Thanks PA99 is it possible to control them in the bios, rather than with software?


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cutterschoice*
> 
> Thanks PA99 is it possible to control them in the bios, rather than with software?


To be honest I haven't been through the bios much in relation to fan control. Not at the machine either. The thermal armour software is pretty handy so I've just stuck with that. Someone else may reply before I'm back at the machine. Regardless , i can see all my fans going on a controller when I sort out the water loop. Good luck


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hey!

Thanks jahcson, that's kindof interesting. My temps are a lot closer to yours since I moved from the stupid stock intel cooler to an Antec 920.



One day I'm going to do some testing with those little fans to see what I can learn but I can't be bothered now







... too busy sorting out my custom waterloop setup to sweat the little things, It just seemed really odd to me that Asus recommend having a downward firing cpu fan on this board plus the other two little fans seeming blowing against each other ... wierd.

Edit: Sorry jahcson ... that was supposed to start with quote from your post.


----------



## jahcson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ickz*
> 
> Just finished a build and I'm liking the board so far. I'm running my 3770k at 4.5/4.6ghz, but not sure if my settings are optimal. Does anyone know if there's a guide anywhere for 3770k oc'ing on the sabertooth?


Here's another useful guide to Overclocking with Ivy Bridge processors *Sabertooth Z77 and i7 3770K*

Hope It will help you out *Ickz*









*Jakusonfire* "It just seemed really odd to me that Asus recommend having a downward firing cpu fan on this board plus the other two little fans seeming blowing against each other" - I don't mind them blowing down so much since the air holes in the motherboard will let some of that heat escape through the back of the board. Besides, quiet is not what I'm after, never has been. I always got a desk fan on somewhere next to me and the PC in this small room, and it's really a hot day out there today, 30c - my temps are proof of that


So I don't bore you all with the temps all the time, just wanna let you all know I'm just about ready to take the leap for a new 24" display - then I can finally put the GTX 690 back into the system - it was first used to test the compatibility of my equipment, then I took it out cause I didn't want to shame my old monitor with it. That has given me some time to get acquainted with my new Sabertooth and reading all the input you guys have offered. I gotta say it is a nice, flexible board to use - but I have a big empty spot in the middle of her and I wanna fill it with GTX !


----------



## Arizonian

I've got my Ivy 3770K CPU ratio @45 without forced voltage, other than with "offset mode" turned on and offset sign to "+".

The voltage will auto boost itself up to 1.464v on the CPU.

My idle temps and voltage reading.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









My mother board UEFI settings.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









After benching 3DMark11 - 3 Performance passes, 4 Extreme passes, & 5 Heaven 3.0 passes, all consistently after each other. It seems I'm stable. Will be testing later tonight if it maintains stability in gaming.

I've tweaked as far as I can on air to my ability. I'm more than satisfied @ 4.550 MHz on the CPU 24/7 stable as well as my over clock on the GPU. The temps seem to be fine and within the normal limits for all components nestled on this mobo..

Luckily I took advantage of Intel Fine Tuning program on this CPU so should it fry, I have a one time over clocking replacement chip I can RMA without question.


----------



## jeffblute

So I am switching sides








And i am pretty set on getting the Z77 Sabertooth and throw a 7950 on it and such to replace my sig rigs. If anyone has any tips please let me know.


----------



## Altin

Anyone get to 5GHZ yet stuck at 4.8 on mine with i7 3770k at 1.32 V. Went from 1.32 to 1.4 as far as I want to go and can not get stable settings with prime 95 V26.6 only one I can find any help would be nice thanks in advance. Btw zalman cnps9900a cpu cooler max temp was 67c on air at 4.8 with prime at 15hrs


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I've got my Ivy 3770K CPU ratio @45 without forced voltage, other than with "offset mode" turned on and offset sign to "+".
> The voltage will auto boost itself up to 1.464v on the CPU.


Holy cray ... 1.464v is way too high for a stable 4.5 -- reason why you have such high temps on idle. Have you run prime95 and use realtemp to see your temps at full load. I'm guessing it would be around 90 with that voltage setting. Have you tried lowering the voltage?


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> So I am switching sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i am pretty set on getting the Z77 Sabertooth and throw a 7950 on it and such to replace my sig rigs. If anyone has any tips please let me know.


Best tip -- when in doubt, double wrap it.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Holy cray ... 1.464v is way too high for a stable 4.5 -- reason why you have such high temps on idle. Have you run prime95 and use realtemp to see your temps at full load. I'm guessing it would be around 90 with that voltage setting. Have you tried lowering the voltage?


Thanks for the input. Would changing the offset to "-" rather than "+" help? Currently I don't have my voltage fixed it's on 'auto'. Voltage is fluctuating with the demands.

Some readings after playing Crysis 2 highest settings and these were my CPU readings in OCCT. However it wasn't stressed enough as usage is low.



Looks like my min value is 1.38v in idle and up to 1.46v full boat.

I don't bench my CPU and I'm not keen on putting it through a stress test. What is a good bench test I can use to put my CPU through?


----------



## unityispower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jahcson*
> 
> *Jakusonfire* "It just seemed really odd to me that Asus recommend having a downward firing cpu fan on this board plus the other two little fans seeming blowing against each other" - I don't mind them blowing down so much since the air holes in the motherboard will let some of that heat escape through the back of the board. Besides, quiet is not what I'm after, never has been. I always got a desk fan on somewhere next to me and the PC in this small room, and it's really a hot day out there today, 30c - my temps are proof of that
> :


My case has a fan mount on the back. I'm going to install it to help the air be pulled back and out of the case. The front of the motherboard will see air being run from the bottom/front and out the top/back. The CPU will use something like a H100 or a Thermaltake equivalent. Looking at the air movement diagram(for TUF armor) on the asus website... this seems to work well.

Has anybody tested if the armor actually improves temps?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> Holy cray ... 1.464v is way too high for a stable 4.5 -- reason why you have such high temps on idle. Have you run prime95 and use realtemp to see your temps at full load. I'm guessing it would be around 90 with that voltage setting. Have you tried lowering the voltage?


agreed. at that voltge I pressed my chip to 4.6 and then a farted out a couple more hertz..thats ALOT of juice bud. I found that Auto voltage just went to high. The only time I leave it at Auto is when i'm feeling frisky and want to OC past 4.5( 1.28v). heck I'm stable at 4.6, 100BCLK, 1.35-8v...I can't imagine what temp I'd get at 4.6,1.46v...I almost fainted wehn I saw 91c at 1.38v
<---pup says "waaat? 1.46v?"


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Thanks for the input. Would changing the offset to "-" rather than "+" help? Currently I don't have my voltage fixed it's on 'auto'. Voltage is fluctuating with the demands.
> Some readings after playing Crysis 2 highest settings and these were my CPU readings in OCCT. However it wasn't stressed enough as usage is low.
> 
> Looks like my min value is 1.38v in idle and up to 1.46v full boat.
> I don't bench my CPU and I'm not keen on putting it through a stress test. What is a good bench test I can use to put my CPU through?


From my understanding, manual mode which I have mine set to is static and remains constant regardless on load. Having it on Auto the bios will set the voltage according to cpu draw and thermal conditions. So when you are on idle you will have one voltage and when on full load another voltage. This saves power. The offset +/- is calculated after the chip has requested voltage based on frequency.

Right now your voltage in bios is 1.282. offset of + increased that by a offset set by bios. You need to see if you are stable at 1.282. If you are you should set a manual offset '-' to decrease idle and load voltages. If you are not stable set an offset of '+' and manually increase it. If you are lazy and want to play it safe set your offset to '+' and .02. This will set your full load voltage to 1.302 which should be well enough to get your stable. I have my chip stable @ 4.5 with 1.210 voltage.


----------



## Arizonian

Thanks again for the pointers.

Got it down to 1.29v @ 43. Ran a little OCCT test. Temps are much much better now.











Going to try back up @ 45 after I see stability where I'm at right now.


----------



## nike23osu

I can run 4.6 stable at 1.25 voltage...donno why you keep going so high.


----------



## vlad1966

I'm considering this mobo for my next build & was wondering if anyone can tell me if the will be any clearance issues with the following HSF & RAM:

HSF: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2

RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 Model CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10

Thanks!


----------



## UncleBird

Greeting to all saber lover. After a week reading this thread finally able to finish the 12x pages...
Cant figure out why i cant get the pic straighten out.. Worse cant post a pic at all..
At the very least i could say thank you to all of you. With patience i manage to fixed up my pc. Runs very smoothly with boot up time of 30secs.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UncleBird*
> 
> Greeting to all saber lover. After a week reading this thread finally able to finish the 12x pages...
> Cant figure out why i cant get the pic straighten out.. Worse cant post a pic at all..
> At the very least i could say thank you to all of you. With patience i manage to fixed up my pc. Runs very smoothly with boot up time of 30secs.


----------



## Arizonian

I think I got my CPU over clock dialed in. With CPU clocks @ 45 and 1.26v, temps did much better. CPU voltage maxed up to 1.27v during a small stress test through OCCT.

Nothing over 81C during 100% usage.



As long as this maintains stable 24/7 I'm happy with a 30% CPU over clock.


----------



## WivZ

Guys, I just bought this mobo and it is REALLY AWESOME!!
But I have one question, everytime I start my pc, the page with the asus sabertooth logo (page when we can enter to BIOS) show two times. Is that normal???


----------



## Tiktok79

WivZ

I flashed to the latest Bios 1206 and it took care of this.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> Guys, I just bought this mobo and it is REALLY AWESOME!!
> But I have one question, everytime I start my pc, the page with the asus sabertooth logo (page when we can enter to BIOS) show two times. Is that normal???


Mine did the same until I set it to _Boot > Optioin ROM Messages > Keep Current_ in the Bios.


----------



## navit

After a few adjustments I am at 4.6 with 1.28 v.
Temps in the IBT got pretty high but spent about an hour in bf3 on a heavy action dm and temps never went past 65.
Next to 4.7


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> WivZ
> I flashed to the latest Bios 1206 and it took care of this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Mine did the same until I set it to _Boot > Optioin ROM Messages > Keep Current_ in the Bios.


oh so you guys experienced the same. Okay I will try both ways








Thanks guys!!


----------



## WivZ

Well I did change the setting in the BIOS and looks like it solved the problem.
I want to update the latest BIOS too but I dont know how. I'm still new in this thing and this is my first build.

One more thing, I installed my OS in my SSD Crucial M4 128gb and it takes around 30sec to boot.. Is that normal?? The page with Asus Sabertooth logo shows for too long.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> Well I did change the setting in the BIOS and looks like it solved the problem.
> I want to update the latest BIOS too but I dont know how. I'm still new in this thing and this is my first build.
> One more thing, I installed my OS in my SSD Crucial M4 128gb and it takes around 30sec to boot.. Is that normal?? The page with Asus Sabertooth logo shows for too long.


yea that is close to about right, my m4 and from the start button to the win log screen it's 30 sec


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> yea that is close to about right, my m4 and from the start button to the win log screen it's 30 sec


A few pages back someone mentioned the 1206 bios speeding up boot time. I think some people saw the jump and others didn't. i definitely did but never timed the difference. OS is on a crucial 128 M4 and the boot time to win 7 log in is 21 seconds. Good luck..


----------



## lzepplin01

I would recommend disabling the start screen for SSD drives. I did, and it definitely saves time. I also set the delay time to 3 seconds from the standard 5 seconds. These can easily be done in the bios under the boot section. 30 seconds is a bit high for an SSD. I was getting <20 seconds after all my junk was installed.

FYI (not sure how relevant this will be for people but it saved my H80 water cooler purchase) If you have an Antec Nine Hundred case and are looking to get an H80 cooler, you can simply reverse the plastic fan holder on the door to keep that fan there, prevent chopping off parts unnecessarily like a lot of people say is necessary, and to accommodate the H80. It can easily fit in the back fan, though the fit is relatively tight. The plastic part is glued to the metal grill, but carefully using a sharp knife separate the glue and the plastic can easily be reversed to the outside. It makes it much more bulky, if slightly awkward, but no amputation is required.

While my board is RMAing, I picked up an H80 and some G.Skill Ares 2133 RAM (9-11-10). After selling my aftermarket air cooler and "old" RAM, the upgrade only cost $50. Can't wait to get my board back!!!!


----------



## Blatsz32

There was mention in the Ivy Bridge Stress and Overclock thread of C-States playing a role in slowing down SSD read times. Apologies of not lining where it was mentioned.

30 seconds seems a long time...from beep to OS it takes me about 15 seconds...perhaps changing to 1206 Bios will help with your loading issues


----------



## WivZ

Can anyone teach how to update BIOS? Is it safe??
I'm very new with this thing and this is my first ever build so I need a guide from you guys








Thanks in advanced


----------



## lzepplin01

Download the bios --> Unzip the .CAP file to a FAT/FAT32 formatted flash drive (doesn't matter if there's other stuff on there, just remember where you put it!) --> Rename to Z77ST.CAP --> Boot into Bios --> Advanced --> Tool Menu --> Asus EZ Flash Utility --> Select Z77ST.CAP from the flash disk you have inserted.

BIOS may be downloaded here: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

There are other ways as well, but it is STRONGLY recommended that you do NOT update through windows. The possibilities for errors and problems are significantly higher.

It is safe so long as you follow the procedure and don't restart/remove the flash drive before it is finished. If there's a problem you will need to remove the Jumper pins to reset the BIOS. Not a big deal, a minor hassle.


----------



## Blatsz32

k, first get a USB drive, format it to a FAT32 enviroment. DL the bios from the ASUS site, shuld be called something like Sabertooth-z77-ASUS-1206.CAP, plug it into the usb port in the back labled EZ-Flash, then restart, navigate to your bios, last tab, chose Flash Utility, and it should go straight to the USB drive. click on the file, it will ask for confirmation, start the flash, and presto you have a new BIOS

seems Zep beat me to it..


----------



## lzepplin01

Haha


----------



## Blatsz32

Hate to do it, but I might sell my rig, start over again with a new Sabertooth. It was such a pleasure building it I want to do it all over again...make better adjustments with my WC loop maybe get the 3770k instead of the 3570k


----------



## WivZ

oh is not that hard. Its really safe? I heard BIOS update could be. dangerous.
I will try update my BIOS after I get back from class









Anyway, how about BIOS button at the I/O panel??


----------



## mosi

Ye, that button can also be used. You prepare a USB stick, put the bios file on it and name it Z77ST.CAP (the manual says so), hold that button for 3 seconds and it updates that bios file. There is one special USB3 slot marked for that on the back IO panel. The manual doesn't say much about it but I guess the stick has to go in there.
Also I dunno if your machine has to be shut off when you press that bios button on the back. I'll need to update to 1206 anyway so I'll try it.

Wish me luck









*edit*
I live! ... again!








You shut down your machine, plug the stick into that labelled port and hold the bios button on the IO panel. After 2-3 seconds it starts blinking and after 3-4 seconds or so it starts reading the stick and updating the bios file. (my stick has some access led so I noticed it started blinking)
When its finished, it just shuts down again. Seems like a nice feature for the lazy.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Ye, that button can also be used. You prepare a USB stick, put the bios file on it and name it Z77ST.CAP (the manual says so), hold that button for 3 seconds and it updates that bios file. There is one special USB3 slot marked for that on the back IO panel. The manual doesn't say much about it but I guess the stick has to go in there.
> Also I dunno if your machine has to be shut off when you press that bios button on the back. I'll need to update to 1206 anyway so I'll try it.
> Wish me luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit*
> I live! ... again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You shut down your machine, plug the stick into that labelled port and hold the bios button on the IO panel. After 2-3 seconds it starts blinking and after 3-4 seconds or so it starts reading the stick and updating the bios file. (my stick has some access led so I noticed it started blinking)
> When its finished, it just shuts down again. Seems like a nice feature for the lazy.


Congratz!! I will try this way too, because I'm soooo lazy LOL. And I think this way is safer because you have to shut down your pc first, right??
Do you feel any improvement with the new BIOS?


----------



## RKTGX95

Can anyone tell me where is the debug led indicator on the motherboard? (sorry for the kinda stupid question, just curious...)


----------



## navit

Right hand side close to the ram Simms.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Right hand side close to the ram Simms.


i know it sounds even stupider, but i fail to find it


----------



## mosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> Congratz!! I will try this way too, because I'm soooo lazy LOL. And I think this way is safer because you have to shut down your pc first, right??
> Do you feel any improvement with the new BIOS?


Thanks







. I wouldn't really update my bios from the windows tools and accessing the EZ Flash in bios is more cumbersome than this little button for sure.

So far nothing on the outside seems to have changed though. Things run smooth except for my ongoing issue that is: Occasionally some program (can be anything from explorer to a game) hangs for half a minute for no reason while the HDD Led stays lit. I'll make a separate post about that issue maybe. Its getting more and more annoying but it only happens 2-3 times a day so its kind of hard to reproduce. I somehow suspect the RAID1 implementation from Intel.


----------



## navit

Thanks for the advice on the ssd boot times guys, shaved almost 15 seconds off


----------



## Tiktok79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> I would recommend disabling the start screen for SSD drives. I did, and it definitely saves time. I also set the delay time to 3 seconds from the standard 5 seconds. These can easily be done in the bios under the boot section. 30 seconds is a bit high for an SSD. I was getting <20 seconds after all my junk was installed.


Where exactly in the Boot Up section of the BIOS do you make these changes, i don't see it...

Thanks!


----------



## Saurk66

I am building a system with a new Sabertooth Z77. I'm using a LanBoy Air case, i5-3570k, ASUS GX560Ti 2GB, Corsair m4 RAID0 SSDs, Kuhler 620, all powered by a 1000W KingWin Mach 1 PSU.





Ok, so question, I'd like to put in 16GB of memory but I would like to use a 2x8GB set so I can go to 32GB in the future. I searched the thread and it seems like this has to have been answered previously but I couldn't find it.

I am looking at the Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600MHz CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10. This same memory (CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10) listed in the 7 Series QVL under 32GB (4x8GB) set but not 16GB (2x8GB). Is this compatible? Anyone else already doing this with some other brand or model?


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Where exactly in the Boot Up section of the BIOS do you make these changes, i don't see it...
> Thanks!


Under the "Boot" Menu of the bios in the advanced section, Set Full Screen Logo to disabled. (See page 3-37 of the manual)
I will have to get back to you on where you can change waiting time from 5 to 3 seconds (I think it's wait for F1 if there's an error). Sorry, my board is being RMAed ATM and I'm just using the manual.


----------



## lzepplin01

Saurk that is a pretty sick case.
It should be compatible if it is the same kit with just two fewer sticks.


----------



## RKTGX95

sorry for asking again, but where is the debug led screen on the MB ?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Edit:
found a possibly useful picture:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> sorry for asking again, but where is the debug led screen on the MB ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> found a possibly useful picture:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Section 2.2.7 pg 2-16 in manual points to all the LEDs on board.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Section 2.2.7 pg 2-16 in manual points to all the LEDs on board.


Thank you! after looking in the manual where you said i finally got it








it's not the traditional debug led screen with the FF (assembly programs will know, they are very rare







) amount of codes. though, not sure if it is for the better or the worse.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Under the "Boot" Menu of the bios in the advanced section, Set Full Screen Logo to disabled. (See page 3-37 of the manual)
> I will have to get back to you on where you can change waiting time from 5 to 3 seconds (I think it's wait for F1 if there's an error). Sorry, my board is being RMAed ATM and I'm just using the manual.


Well I tried that, and my pc boot a little bit faster than before. But the problem is, how do I enter BIOS now? There is no more page with the Asus Sabertooth logo where I can enter BIOS by pressing DEL.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> Well I tried that, and my pc boot a little bit faster than before. But the problem is, how do I enter BIOS now? There is no more page with the Asus Sabertooth logo where I can enter BIOS by pressing DEL.


Just keep pressing the Delete key right when you turn it on. It still works without the screen.


----------



## Saurk66

Thanks LZ, its an Antec LanBoy Air Blue...totally modular. Not the easiest to work with and definitely not tool free but you can basically put anything anywhere.


----------



## metalhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlad1966*
> 
> I'm considering this mobo for my next build & was wondering if anyone can tell me if the will be any clearance issues with the following HSF & RAM:
> HSF: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2
> RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 Model CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10
> Thanks!


I have the G-Skill Ripjaws X, as well as the 212 Plus (vs your EVO). I can tell you that the clearance towards the DIMM appears fine should you have your cooler in a push, or push-pull configuration. I have mine in a pull and with only 2x8GB memory (therefore no stick in the A1 slot), so I couldn't confirm it 100%. Visually, it appears like it would be fine. Close, but fine as long as you use a standard 120mm fan (not thicker than average). It also just barely clears the thermal armor at the top of the board. By barely I mean with less than 1mm to spare.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks I just installed my Sabertooth Z77 and i am bloody excited

I disabled onboard audio on the bios so far.

Is there anything else i should be doing?

Also i just installed a if 3570k CPU as well.

My temps are around 45 degrees is this normal? I do have a great air cooler Zalman CNPS11x

Also while one core is 45 degrees the other is 38. Does this mean that I applied the thermal paste wrong?

Also i wont to OC my i5 3570k to 4.0 ... Could someone who did the same thing post some SS so I can see what I should do?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks I just installed my Sabertooth Z77 and i am bloody excited
> 
> I disabled onboard audio on the bios so far.
> Is there anything else i should be doing?
> 
> Also i just installed a if 3570k CPU as well.
> 
> My temps are around 45 degrees is this normal? I do have a great air cooler Zalman CNPS11x
> 
> Also while one core is 45 degrees the other is 38. Does this mean that I applied the thermal paste wrong?
> 
> Also i wont to OC my i5 3570k to 4.0 ... Could someone who did the same thing post some SS so I can see what I should do?


The Idle temps aren't that important, its your load temps that are crucial. As far as the cores reading diffrent temps, it's normal. My lowest core is almost 5c cooler than my hottest. If you haven't done anything to voltages you might want to start by changing it to 1.20v. I would think thats more than enough voltage for stock clock. Reason being, auto voltage cranks all the way up to 1.40 at load which will make your temps super high and to be honest no one needs that much voltage unless they are shooting for a 4.6 overclock.

If the idle temps that you have atm are bothering you go ahead and reseat your cooler....just remember to much thermal paste is just as bad as to little thermal paste...personally I think your fine. your ambiant temps may be playing a role with your idle temps.

If you want to overclcok I would say the easiest thing to do is use the auto overclcok option in the bios. It will set a stable, overclocked BCLK, multiplier and even clock your RAM to a stable frequency. LLc seems to be something alot of people are messing with as well..the way I see it if you can get a nice overclcok without having to mess wtih LLC you've hit gold...but sometimes to maintain a stable clock it needs to be changed. Stick with the auto overclcok if its your first time. You won't have to worry about stability and the shorting of your CPUs life span
I would post my setting but I'm not sure you'd be able to hit the same numbers as I am using a custom water loop. but if you wish I can post my setting for a stable 103BCLK and 44x Multiplier.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey blats thank you for the answer.

I had actually OCed before with my Asus P8z68vle but the bios was not as complicated as the sabetooth z77.

my previos motherboard had a lot of functions cut down.

It would be nice if i could see a SS of that setting if possible 

Also i just did auto OCing and will see how it is now.


----------



## Gazbirt

I'm planning on putting an i7-3770k into my Z77 motherboard, I was wondering what a good heatsink would be to keep it nice and cool? I'm going to be using all of the ram slots, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233246 . I would prefer a quiet heatsink, my case is a Cosmos II.


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Ive always wanted to try this, but I can use an nvidia card as well as ATI together on the sabertooth boards right?


----------



## zlotm8938

@Blatsz32, did you ever solve the missing AI Tweaker options problem? I am experiencing the same thing right now. I cannot boot with anything other than stock settings. Also, the "Turbo ratio" and "Internal PLL overvoltage" options do not show up under AI Tweaker like they are supposed to. I have tried updating to the 1206 BIOS, but that did not work. I have done everything to reset the CMOS settings other than remove the battery (because removing the thermal armour would be a nightmare). Any advice would unbelievably appreciated. This issue is driving me insane!


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I wouldn't really update my bios from the windows tools and accessing the EZ Flash in bios is more cumbersome than this little button for sure.
> So far nothing on the outside seems to have changed though. Things run smooth except for my ongoing issue that is: Occasionally some program (can be anything from explorer to a game) hangs for half a minute for no reason while the HDD Led stays lit. I'll make a separate post about that issue maybe. Its getting more and more annoying but it only happens 2-3 times a day so its kind of hard to reproduce. I somehow suspect the RAID1 implementation from Intel.


I just updated my BIOS with this BIOS flashback method. Its super easy LOL!! But no improvement in booting time


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zlotm8938*
> 
> @Blatsz32, did you ever solve the missing AI Tweaker options problem? I am experiencing the same thing right now. I cannot boot with anything other than stock settings. Also, the "Turbo ratio" and "Internal PLL overvoltage" options do not show up under AI Tweaker like they are supposed to. I have tried updating to the 1206 BIOS, but that did not work. I have done everything to reset the CMOS settings other than remove the battery (because removing the thermal armour would be a nightmare). Any advice would unbelievably appreciated. This issue is driving me insane!



are those the programs you are looking for off AI Suite? If yes then download them off the Asus site, go to the V Gene though. That boards software is a lot more expansive than the Sabertooths. As far as overclocking from the OS enviroment, I don't think it sticks in the bios. You can overclock it in windows but to keep the setting you have to change it directly in the BIOS. When you OC in the Windows enviroment you are in essence just testing limits etc without having to go through the reboots.

Let me know if thats what you are looking for..wait are you talking about not having the options in the BIOS? Someone else had that issue and had to RMA.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zlotm8938*
> 
> @Blatsz32, did you ever solve the missing AI Tweaker options problem? I am experiencing the same thing right now. I cannot boot with anything other than stock settings. Also, the "Turbo ratio" and "Internal PLL overvoltage" options do not show up under AI Tweaker like they are supposed to. I have tried updating to the 1206 BIOS, but that did not work. I have done everything to reset the CMOS settings other than remove the battery (because removing the thermal armour would be a nightmare). Any advice would unbelievably appreciated. This issue is driving me insane!


That happened to me, and I tried everything under the sun to fix it. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything that did and I had to RMA. Quite a few people had that problem, and I've found no solution as yet... Can you confirm that these settings are missing in the bios?


----------



## Blatsz32

Which SATA port are you plugged into WivZ? LOL, Zep again..thats who had the issue..hopefully you are talking AISuite and not Zeps issue.

take a snap shot of the BHios, Zep will tell you if you have to RMA it..I think he posted his..it was wierd to see no options


----------



## lzepplin01

Haha we always do that!









Zlotm, what is your memory configuration? I had the same problem in addition to my B1 and B2 slots not working. I'm curious if that is related.
Like Blatsz said, take a screenshot of your BIOS (F12) where the turbo multiplier and pll voltage settings usually are.
If you have the same problem I will contact asus and let them know a lot of people are having the problem. Hopefully you don't have the problem though.


----------



## zlotm8938

Memory config: 1 kit of F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR in slots A2 and B2. The memory slots seem to be working fine (other than the cannot overclock issue, but that seems to be firmware/software related).

I was talking about the settings in the BIOS itself, as seen in screencap below, but I might give the software a shot and see what happens.



My system will not boot with the X.M.P. profile seen in the screencap. I only switched to the X.M.P. setting to show that the couple setting are not showing up where they should be.

Edits for clarification.


----------



## lzepplin01

Ok I had the same problem and had to RMA, unfortunately. I have found no solution and asus said RMA was the solution. Sorry to break it to you. I'm still waiting for mine to be repaired. If you don't want to overclock it works fine but I didn't find that acceptable.
Can you try the slots B1 and B2 for me? I want to see if the memory controller is involved so maybe asus can hammer out what the problem is.

Edit: I guess that you don't have a bad controller based on your edit, but can you try the other slots to make sure? Sorry to be the bearer of bad news... Here is a forum of people with the same issues: http://rog.asus.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-14888.html?s=02aea1f8f499319a3e65df96c326a24c AND: http://www.overclock.net/t/1256298/sabertooth-driving-me-crazy/30
Seems like people are also having RAM trouble with it.
Apparently the Maximus Gene IV is having the same issues.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Which SATA port are you plugged into WivZ? LOL, Zep again..thats who had the issue..hopefully you are talking AISuite and not Zeps issue.
> take a snap shot of the BHios, Zep will tell you if you have to RMA it..I think he posted his..it was wierd to see no options


The 6gb/s Sata brown port


----------



## Blatsz32

Oh man Zlot, I'm so sorry...I was afraid that was the issue. Hopefully you bough tthe board at a retail store and not online...and if its a store i hope they allow you to exchange it.
I changed my avatar to the:
<<<< serious puppy face for you


----------



## Nocmen

Just got one of these today - Two issues, one is minor one isn't as much.

1. Is there a special bracket needed to install a hyper 212+ on this board? the bracket I had would not fit no matter how I adjusted it. Had to use stock cooler to get it up and running

2. What is every setting I need to change to disable speed step? I've disabled it from the CPU Power Management in BIOS, done so in memory settings telling my processor to be minimum of 100%, yet it still alternates between 1600 and 3800 Mhz (38x 100 are my current OC settings for stock cooler, auto everything else).

Besides that, very very nice board. I don't know if I can ever buy a different model for a while.


----------



## StormlessWolf

Hey All!

I gotta say I love this motherboard to death! However, I have run into an issue with the CPU heat sink. The stock intel's heat sink has bent pins and intel wont send me a replacement because "they don't warranty physical damage". Now, I have a warranty through Micro Center for the CPU, but if they wont replace it I need to get an aftermarket one.

As I've read from a few of you its a tight squeeze with this board. You guys have any suggesstions?

I was looking at A H60 (H100 barely fits in this case from reviews) from Corsair, not gonna do too much of a extreme OC.


----------



## Blatsz32

Noc, i think it would be best to let the CPU down clock itself like that. Not only will it save power, decrease heat out put, but it will also increase the life span of your cpu. I would be concerned if your CPU maintained a high clock with full voltage....

to be honest I'm not sure that there is an option to keep it at stock or overclocked frequency.

stormless, I'd think about an h80 if it fits. You didn't mention what CPU you're getting but if its IB you want something that will manage the heat well. IB tends to produce alot more heat than SB even at stock. Its just the way the die is.


----------



## StormlessWolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Noc, i think it would be best to let the CPU down clock itself like that. Not only will it save power, decrease heat out put, but it will also increase the life span of your cpu. I would be concerned if your CPU maintained a high clock with full voltage....
> to be honest I'm not sure that there is an option to keep it at stock or overclocked frequency.
> stormless, I'd think about an h80 if it fits. You didn't mention what CPU you're getting but if its IB you want something that will manage the heat well. IB tends to produce alot more heat than SB even at stock. Its just the way the die is.


Thanks for the Reply Blatsz32! I was admiring your Rig..truly a work of art! haha...and your guess about the IB was dead on man! 3570k...really not big on those stock heatsinks AT ALL! So, if an H80 will fit, its a go!

Again, thanks much!


----------



## metalhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nocmen*
> 
> Just got one of these today - Two issues, one is minor one isn't as much.
> 1. Is there a special bracket needed to install a hyper 212+ on this board? the bracket I had would not fit no matter how I adjusted it. Had to use stock cooler to get it up and running.


I have installed that very cooler on this beautiful board 2 days ago with no issues whatsoever. The plate that came in the box is just fine. Here's how it should be placed on the back of the board:


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nocmen*
> 
> 2. What is every setting I need to change to disable speed step? I've disabled it from the CPU Power Management in BIOS, done so in memory settings telling my processor to be minimum of 100%, yet it still alternates between 1600 and 3800 Mhz (38x 100 are my current OC settings for stock cooler, auto everything else).


Actually mine is set to a static voltage keeping me at 4500 ghz 100% of the time. I believe you have to set your voltage to manual ... mine is set to 1.21 and my offest is set to 0.00 I believe. Try something like this and let me know if it works for you.

The reason I did that was to see what my stable voltage would be at 4500 ghz. When I have time I'm going to manually set a negative offset and see how low I can get the voltage at idle.

Blatsz, that is a good looking dog!


----------



## zlotm8938

I tested the memory setup, and it would seem that B1 and B2 are both working correctly for me.

I ordered the board from Newegg.com less than 30 days ago, so I was able to RMA it through them for (what they say will be) a brand new retail part. Rather than have to deal with getting the board repaired by ASUS.

Thank you for all your help everyone! This issue was really starting to drive me nuts. lzepplin01: Good luck with your RMA, I hope you get everything squared away soon.


----------



## Slygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nocmen*
> 
> Just got one of these today - Two issues, one is minor one isn't as much.
> 1. Is there a special bracket needed to install a hyper 212+ on this board? the bracket I had would not fit no matter how I adjusted it. Had to use stock cooler to get it up and running
> 2. What is every setting I need to change to disable speed step? I've disabled it from the CPU Power Management in BIOS, done so in memory settings telling my processor to be minimum of 100%, yet it still alternates between 1600 and 3800 Mhz (38x 100 are my current OC settings for stock cooler, auto everything else).
> Besides that, very very nice board. I don't know if I can ever buy a different model for a while.


I also ran into that problem when I was OCing. It would fluctuate like crazy for no reason. The way I disabled it was by turning off all the C1E states and all of those other states in the BIOS. I can't think of the names of all of them, but basically I have all of the power states turned off. I believe C1E was the last one I turned off before it stopped fluctuating. Hope this helps.


----------



## iARDAs

I set my system up but I totally forgot about the 2 turbo fans coming with the motherboard.

I cant install the one on the top since my soundcard is there, but i Can install the on on the rear.

DO i need to take out my motherboard to install it or can i install it as it is.

I couldnt really get it from the manual.


----------



## Slygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I set my system up but I totally forgot about the 2 turbo fans coming with the motherboard.
> 
> I cant install the one on the top since my soundcard is there, but i Can install the on on the rear.
> 
> DO i need to take out my motherboard to install it or can i install it as it is.
> 
> I couldnt really get it from the manual.


By rear do you mean the one near the I/O panel? If so, hmm maybe you could just slide the mobo out of the I/O panel and install the fan while the mobo is in your system. If you have enough room you can try that, but I would take the mobo out and install it.


----------



## Tiktok79

Hey guys, this is my first time running Prime95...i usually just run AIDA64....what settings do I select and/or how do I run the best stress test to see if my OC is stable?? New to this software so a bit confused. Thanks.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Noc, i think it would be best to let the CPU down clock itself like that. Not only will it save power, decrease heat out put, but it will also increase the life span of your cpu. I would be concerned if your CPU maintained a high clock with full voltage....
> to be honest I'm not sure that there is an option to keep it at stock or overclocked frequency.
> stormless, I'd think about an h80 if it fits. You didn't mention what CPU you're getting but if its IB you want something that will manage the heat well. IB tends to produce alot more heat than SB even at stock. Its just the way the die is.


There is a way to disable that down clocking, but I tend to agree that it would do more harm than good.


----------



## Elloquin

@tiktok
You'll get 1000 different answers for this but I usually just run prime blend for an hour or two if you have the time and then game on it. If I am overclocking the cards then its prime blend and Kombustor at the same time for an hour then game.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zlotm8938*
> 
> I tested the memory setup, and it would seem that B1 and B2 are both working correctly for me.
> I ordered the board from Newegg.com less than 30 days ago, so I was able to RMA it through them for (what they say will be) a brand new retail part. Rather than have to deal with getting the board repaired by ASUS.
> Thank you for all your help everyone! This issue was really starting to drive me nuts. lzepplin01: Good luck with your RMA, I hope you get everything squared away soon.


Well that's good news! RMAing through Newegg is MUCCCHHHH better than via ASUS. My board has been out 8 days now and they're STILL not done. I have a feeling they're just going to send me a refurbished one anyways...
Hope you have a speedy RMA!


----------



## StormlessWolf

Well, guys...good luck to Zep and Zlotman8938 with your RMA's! I am in a debocklet myself with my board. Micro center replaced the heatsink for me, but once I got everything setup and running (breadboarded it)... CPU_led is RED! great...I tried moving the ram, reseating heatsink and nada. Would really have been nice to have a speaker so I can hear the post beeps! Does the Carbide 400R not come with one? find it odd...

Anyway, any feedback would be appreciated!

Thanks!.
~StormlessWolf


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

What is the difference between Ai Charger+ and the USB Charger+ on the Asus Suite?


----------



## Elenion

Hello,

What is the current most stable BIOS for Sabertooth Z77?

I read about some people having problems with 1206


----------



## navit

1206 has flawless for me and is what I would recommend.


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> 1206 has flawless for me and is what I would recommend.


Thanks for the reply.
Slight off topic but what is/are the most popular and reliable free software for monitoring pc performance and stuff? What about the benchmark?


----------



## iARDAs

So I finally decided on switching to water cooling and ordered a Corsair H70 and 2 Akasa Viper 120mm fans (both are 110 cfm)

You think this is a good way to go with my i5 3570k?

Also how will i set this up? I have never ever used a water cooling system before so this will be my first.

In our motherboard there is the CPU FAN slot and next to it there is another slot called CPU something. I believe i will put these 2 120mm fans headers there right?


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So I finally decided on switching to water cooling and ordered a Corsair H70 and 2 Akasa Viper 120mm fans (both are 110 cfm)
> 
> You think this is a good way to go with my i5 3570k?
> 
> Also how will i set this up? I have never ever used a water cooling system before so this will be my first.
> 
> In our motherboard there is the CPU FAN slot and next to it there is another slot called CPU something. I believe i will put these 2 120mm fans headers there right?


I have the H100. Pretty easy install. I have heard that if you use the CPU connector it will not turn on the fan? Some I guess had problems. I have 4 120mm GT's and I hooked them strieght into the H100, than I hooked the H100, via 4 pin mol, to psu mol.


----------



## lzepplin01

I just purchased an H80 for my rig (an H100 wouldn't fit in my case) and I am just wondering what sorts of differences I could expect between the Zalman aftermarket air cooler I had previously and the H80 water setup. I was able to get 4.4 GHz overclock before with a voltage of 1.18, and if I raised the multiplier any further the voltage needed to be raised which caused unacceptable temperatures (mid 80s) in the Burn Test. Has anyone gone from an overclocked air setup to a closed loop water setup? I have a 3570K and know that every chip is different, but I was wondering what other people's experiences were.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So I finally decided on switching to water cooling and ordered a Corsair H70 and 2 Akasa Viper 120mm fans (both are 110 cfm)
> 
> You think this is a good way to go with my i5 3570k?
> 
> Also how will i set this up? I have never ever used a water cooling system before so this will be my first.
> 
> In our motherboard there is the CPU FAN slot and next to it there is another slot called CPU something. I believe i will put these 2 120mm fans headers there right?


Nice choice. I have the H100 and these corsair and similar cooling options make water cooling a breeze. Installs just like a regular heat sink. Only difference is you need to be mindful with handling the radiator while mounting, but as far as ease... It's just the same.

As far as your fans, they will plug directly into the H70 unit, then the unit will plug into the CPU fan slot on the mobo. I'm not familiar with the H70 per se as far as if it supports dual fans in a push/pull. If it does, then both fans will plug into the H70 unit.

If the H70 only supports a single fan, and you want to use a push/pull configuration, then you can plug the "push" fan into the H70, and then the "pull" fan into another fan connector on the mobo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> I just purchased an H80 for my rig (an H100 wouldn't fit in my case) and I am just wondering what sorts of differences I could expect between the Zalman aftermarket air cooler I had previously and the H80 water setup. I was able to get 4.4 GHz overclock before with a voltage of 1.18, and if I raised the multiplier any further the voltage needed to be raised which caused unacceptable temperatures (mid 80s) in the Burn Test. Has anyone gone from an overclocked air setup to a closed loop water setup? I have a 3570K and know that every chip is different, but I was wondering what other people's experiences were.


I have the 3570k and got a stable 4.5 clock around 1.2ish volts with the H100.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> I have the H100. Pretty easy install. I have heard that if you use the CPU connector it will not turn on the fan? Some I guess had problems. I have 4 120mm GT's and I hooked them strieght into the H100, than I hooked the H100, via 4 pin mol, to psu mol.


Yep i just saw that i will connect the fans on the cooler than connect via 4 pin mol 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Nice choice. I have the H100 and these corsair and similar cooling options make water cooling a breeze. Installs just like a regular heat sink. Only difference is you need to be mindful with handling the radiator while mounting, but as far as ease... It's just the same.
> As far as your fans, they will plug directly into the H70 unit, then the unit will plug into the CPU fan slot on the mobo. I'm not familiar with the H70 per se as far as if it supports dual fans in a push/pull. If it does, then both fans will plug into the H70 unit.
> If the H70 only supports a single fan, and you want to use a push/pull configuration, then you can plug the "push" fan into the H70, and then the "pull" fan into another fan connector on the mobo.
> I have the 3570k and got a stable 4.5 clock around 1.2ish volts with the H100.


I changed my order from a H70 to a H80. The H70 one I ordered was the model named CWCH70. It seems that Corsair H80 is the better one. Can I later install my own fans to the Corsair H80?


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I changed my order from a H70 to a H80. The H70 one I ordered was the model named CWCH70. It seems that Corsair H80 is the better one. Can I later install my own fans to the Corsair H80?


Yes, the only dif is the H80 has room for 2 fans as the H100 has room for 4. The H80 was a great pick.... hope you like it.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> Yes, the only dif is the H80 has room for 2 fans as the H100 has room for 4. The H80 was a great pick.... hope you like it.


Yeah thank you. I had thought that H70 was exactly the same as H80 but without fans. However the H70 I ordered seems different and I wanted to go with the H80. I hope I will like it


----------



## Blatsz32

Ugh, decided to work on my water cooling loop, and messed it all up. Cut my hoses to short, crushed the fins on my rad...I feel like throwing my rig out into the street and watch as a semi-truck runs it over..I'm so frustrated.

My temps are crazy. WC loop temps idle 19-35 at 4.6.......stock cooler idle, 50-46. UGH!


----------



## Makkqverk

Hello guys/girls







I have decided to get a z77 sabertooth with a 3570K. Very exited!!
My current build is an old AMD 790fx-ds5.. and an "newer" 965 phenom BE.. + old DDR2 crucial 4-4-4-12.. wich i manage to buy different types.. 2x2.2v and 2x 2.0v









Am i in for a treat, as they say??









What im wondering is how is the best way to check that al my components are good for overcloking? check ram, cpu etc?
how can i test this? i got me 16gb Vengeance low profile 9-9-9-24 BTW is this good for my board+cpu??

unfortunately they did not have my cooler, the D14 in stock, so have to wait uintil they get it back...

THNX!!! VERY EXITED xD


----------



## Slygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makkqverk*
> 
> Hello guys/girls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have decided to get a z77 sabertooth with a 3570K. Very exited!!
> My current build is an old AMD 790fx-ds5.. and an "newer" 965 phenom BE.. + old DDR2 crucial 4-4-4-12.. wich i manage to buy different types.. 2x2.2v and 2x 2.0v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am i in for a treat, as they say??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What im wondering is how is the best way to check that al my components are good for overcloking? check ram, cpu etc?
> how can i test this? i got me 16gb Vengeance low profile 9-9-9-24 BTW is this good for my board+cpu??
> unfortunately they did not have my cooler, the D14 in stock, so have to wait uintil they get it back...
> THNX!!! VERY EXITED xD


Newegg has the NH-D14 in stock, I'm not sure if you were looking at newegg or not.

As for overclocking, it seems that you definitely have the right processor to do it. Are you thinking of overclocking everything, like CPU, RAM, and GPU? If so, I have heard that the samsung RAM has incredible overclocking abilities and GPU wise you should be able to tweak depending on your card.

The RAM should be fine, I would just make sure that you have enough room installing the D14 with that RAM, as the heat spreaders are tall. I am speaking from experience with my G. Skill RAM that had tall heat spreaders and it was a tight squeeze with the D14, but it did fit. The other thing to be wary about is if you are getting RAM that is 1866 or 2133, I would double check the compatibility with the Z77 so you know if you can run the RAM at that speed. My RAM wasn't suited to run at 2400, according to the compatibility list, but I did get it working with the XMP.


----------



## arkarkwin

Hi Guy,
I just got Sabertooth Z77 with Intel i5 3570K in an ancient NZXT Tempest (original) case. My mobo temps are going crazy. I should have taken a screenshot but I don't have with me right now. My "Dram" temp is around 40-41C idle and 44-46C under load and my mobo temp is 35-37C idle and 39-40C under load. I had to disable one intake fan from front panel to get that mobo temperature. I understand that USB 3.0, PCH and SATA 6 temps are higher due my graphic card (AMD 6950) but why is "Dram" and "mobo" temps are that high?
It is because I have bad sensor or bad board or my air flow is messing up?


----------



## Slygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkarkwin*
> 
> Hi Guy,
> I just got Sabertooth Z77 with Intel i5 3570K in an ancient NZXT Tempest (original) case. My mobo temps are going crazy. I should have taken a screenshot but I don't have with me right now. My "Dram" temp is around 40-41C idle and 44-46C under load and my mobo temp is 35-37C idle and 39-40C under load. I had to disable one intake fan from front panel to get that mobo temperature. I understand that USB 3.0, PCH and SATA 6 temps are higher due my graphic card (AMD 6950) but why is "Dram" and "mobo" temps are that high?
> It is because I have bad sensor or bad board or my air flow is messing up?


Where did you read those temps from the BIOS or RealTemp? Also was one of the intake fans not working and that's why you had to disable it? Finally you have the two onboard mobo fans the Sabertooth came with installed?


----------



## Makkqverk

THnx!

I live in norway.. hehe so no newegg for me









Oh, is the corsair vengeance not god? 4x4gb 9-9-9-24 1.5v?

From what i have read, people do use them with this setup, samsung ram, i had never even heard of haha, we dont have them here. i have never been overcloking before, only tried and faildbecause of my wrong.. ish, ram settup..


----------



## Tiktok79

Guys I have a question. With no programs running, i launch CPUZ and it shows the vcore already at 1.200. Once i start Prime95 it begins to drop into the 1.1's. However, if my system is not overclock, stock 3.4mhz, it's the oposite. Vcore will show at like 0.9 something and once i run a stress test it goes up on voltage, which is normal from what i know. So what i'm trying to say is that with my system idle the vcore is already at 1.20v. In the bios i have it on offset (not manual), everything is on defaults, all i do is change multiplier to 40 or 41 to begin testing.

however, yesterday it was running how it should...vcore is low since system is idle and once prime runs it goes up. today is doing the complete opposite and can't figure it out!

have i5 3570k
h100 cooler.


----------



## arkarkwin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slygamer*
> 
> Where did you read those temps from the BIOS or RealTemp? Also was one of the intake fans not working and that's why you had to disable it? Finally you have the two onboard mobo fans the Sabertooth came with installed?


I read the temps from both BIOS, RealTemp, HWTemp, and supplied Thermal Radar. I disabled on intake fan because mobo temp would jump up to 42-43C in idle when that's fan is running. That fan has around 80+CFM and it is directed toward mobo sensor from front panel. Between the fan and the mobo, I got one HD and a SSD.
I have installed two onboard mobo fans and I have even checked for corrected fan orientation twice just to make sure I have installed it correctly.
Rest of my temperatures are down. I overclocked my i5 3570K to 3.8Ghz with memory auto clocked to 2133. I use auto clocking feature from the Bios. My CPU idle temp is 30-32C with 35-38C under full load. My 1st core and 4th core have 10C difference. For example, my 1st core is around 33-38C and my 4th core is 23-30C. I have to reseat and reapply thermal paste but I don't think it affects the mobo temp.


----------



## Slygamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Makkqverk*
> 
> THnx!
> I live in norway.. hehe so no newegg for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, is the corsair vengeance not god? 4x4gb 9-9-9-24 1.5v?
> From what i have read, people do use them with this setup, samsung ram, i had never even heard of haha, we dont have them here. i have never been overcloking before, only tried and faildbecause of my wrong.. ish, ram settup..


That sucks







I couldn't imagine not having a site like newegg.

It should be fine, but I'm saying depending on which speed RAM you are buying you may need to check for compatibility. If its DDR3 1600 or 1866, then you should be ok, but if the RAM is rated for something higher like 2133 or 2400 then you need to check for compatibility if it can run at those rated speeds. Of course, the RAM still may run if it isn't listed, but its good to check anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Guys I have a question. With no programs running, i launch CPUZ and it shows the vcore already at 1.200. Once i start Prime95 it begins to drop into the 1.1's. However, if my system is not overclock, stock 3.4mhz, it's the oposite. Vcore will show at like 0.9 something and once i run a stress test it goes up on voltage, which is normal from what i know. So what i'm trying to say is that with my system idle the vcore is already at 1.20v. In the bios i have it on offset (not manual), everything is on defaults, all i do is change multiplier to 40 or 41 to begin testing.
> however, yesterday it was running how it should...vcore is low since system is idle and once prime runs it goes up. today is doing the complete opposite and can't figure it out!
> have i5 3570k
> h100 cooler.


In the first scenario with the overclock, that sounds like vDroop is kicking in and dropping the voltage. You have it set for offset of 1.2V? Then it should hover around the offset from 1.2 with what you have it set to as well as taking into account how much vDroop is dropping it. (I believe that is a setting as well in the BIOS). This is entirely normal and you want this to be happening, albeit too much can cause you to have to constantly tweak up the vCore. Not too mention, this could also be on the overclock you have the speedstep turned off, which drops the clock speed down during idle. If speedstep is off, the vCore and clock speed will be constant during idle and not drop such as with speedstep on. For the stock settings, speedstep is on and the vCore and clock speed will be low as to what you are saying because the clock speed is running low at idle. Once you kick off a Prime95 test, the voltage will go up because its heading to the stock clock speed as well as the vCore that the BIOS auto setting has determined.

Hope this all helps.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkarkwin*
> 
> I have installed two onboard mobo fans and I have even checked for corrected fan orientation twice just to make sure I have installed it correctly.
> Rest of my temperatures are down. I overclocked my i5 3570K to 3.8Ghz with memory auto clocked to 2133. I use auto clocking feature from the Bios. My CPU idle temp is 30-32C with 35-38C under full load. My 1st core and 4th core have 10C difference. For example, my 1st core is around 33-38C and my 4th core is 23-30C. I have to reseat and reapply thermal paste but I don't think it affects the mobo temp.


This is extremely common, the first core running the hottest on that chip. I wouldn't trouble yourself at those low temperatures.

Edit: I recommend you avoid the auto overclocking feature with Ivy Bridge. It tends to set the voltage too high, and Ivy Bridge tends to run hot anyways given the paste they use between the Heat Spreader and the CPU die on Ivy Bridge chips, instead of fluxless solder used on Sandy Bridge and others. Also, 22 nm technology increases the power, and thus heat, density due to the smaller die size. Pile on the highish voltage that the Saber auto-overclock feature adds, and you've got one hot Ivy.
Not quite as hot as this Ivy, though: http://images.wikia.com/batman/images/1/1e/Poison-ivy-uma.jpg


----------



## Makkqverk

forgot to mention.. it is 1600mhz =)


----------



## N3mc0n

I'm confused as well how the voltage is setup on this chip. I've been testing different overclocks for the past 36 hours or so, and it seems to be running really hot - but I'm associating that with very high voltages. I'm just unsure of how the automatic voltage stepping works - because I'm jumping all around.

Getting core temps in RealTemp of 72C on air, running 100x42 @ 1.2V in Cpu-Z. However, in AI Suite it shows the voltage of 1.085 V? And in BIOS it's 1.165, so I'm just really confused as how it's calculating all of these.

And yet as soon as I go below 1.2V, I'll blue screen - but usually when stopping prime95 tests, never when running. Not sure what to tweak next.


----------



## Gauntlet3h

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3mc0n*
> 
> I'm confused as well how the voltage is setup on this chip. I've been testing different overclocks for the past 36 hours or so, and it seems to be running really hot - but I'm associating that with very high voltages. I'm just unsure of how the automatic voltage stepping works - because I'm jumping all around.
> Getting core temps in RealTemp of 72C on air, running 100x42 @ 1.2V in Cpu-Z. However, in AI Suite it shows the voltage of 1.085 V? And in BIOS it's 1.165, so I'm just really confused as how it's calculating all of these.
> And yet as soon as I go below 1.2V, I'll blue screen - but usually when stopping prime95 tests, never when running. Not sure what to tweak next.


You should tweak the voltage offset. What is your voltage set in bios? Manual or auto and what is the offset?


----------



## Jim Pomerville

Hey Guys , and Girls , I updated my Sabertooth's AI with the Maximus Extreme's AI ..So far so good , , Fan Expert, and a bunch of others are updated ...

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/Maximus_V_Extreme/#overview


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> Hey Guys , and Girls , I updated my Sabertooth's AI with the Maximus Extreme's AI ..So far so good , , Fan Expert, and a bunch of others are updated ...
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/Maximus_V_Extreme/#overview


Just curious, what does fan expert do that I cant do in thermal radar?


----------



## archimonde

Hi guys,

I just bought an Asus Sabertooth Z77, Intel i7 3770, MSI Nvidia GTX670 OC (980mhz), Kingston HyperX DDR3 2*4gb 1600mhz RAM, Kingston HyperX 240GB 3K SSD and WD Caviar Black 2TB hard drive.

Everything is OK except a little problem. When I boot up the PC after POST signal, the boot splash screen appears. But it blinks twice. After that everything goes normally. I didn't understand what can be the problem.

I didn't overclock anything.

The things I changed: At first, my RAMs are running at 1333Mhz and I set it as 1600Mhz (since they are 1600Mhz at stock). I changed CPU fan minimum limit (I bought a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo and its fan runs at 400RPM when CPU is cold).

I'm using a DVI->VGA converter since my monitor (sony 32" lcd tv) has only VGA and HDMI inputs. Should I use HDMI?

I don't understand what can be the problem or this behavior is normal.

I will upload a video about that blink next hours.

Also, are there any recommendations on UEFI settings?

I didn't updated BIOS (or should I say UEFI) version too. Should I get latest version from Asus Web site?(I think so)

I also installed Windows 8 at first but there is no Sabertooth Z77 Windows 8 drivers. I also get a blue screen and now installing Windows 7







.

Thanks.


----------



## N3mc0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> You should tweak the voltage offset. What is your voltage set in bios? Manual or auto and what is the offset?


I've been having it as an auto offset for now. I tried a 0.1V offset even and that was blue screening on jumps down when I turned off prime, since that matches the voltages that I know are stable for me.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *archimonde*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just bought an Asus Sabertooth Z77, Intel i7 3770, MSI Nvidia GTX670 OC (980mhz), Kingston HyperX DDR3 2*4gb 1600mhz RAM, Kingston HyperX 240GB 3K SSD and WD Caviar Black 2TB hard drive.
> Everything is OK except a little problem. When I boot up the PC after POST signal, the boot splash screen appears. But it blinks twice. After that everything goes normally. I didn't understand what can be the problem.
> I didn't overclock anything.
> The things I changed: At first, my RAMs are running at 1333Mhz and I set it as 1600Mhz (since they are 1600Mhz at stock). I changed CPU fan minimum limit (I bought a CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo and its fan runs at 400RPM when CPU is cold).
> I'm using a DVI->VGA converter since my monitor (sony 32" lcd tv) has only VGA and HDMI inputs. Should I use HDMI?
> I don't understand what can be the problem or this behavior is normal.
> I will upload a video about that blink next hours.
> Also, are there any recommendations on UEFI settings?
> I didn't updated BIOS (or should I say UEFI) version too. Should I get latest version from Asus Web site?(I think so)
> I also installed Windows 8 at first but there is no Sabertooth Z77 Windows 8 drivers. I also get a blue screen and now installing Windows 7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Thanks.


Boot > Optioin ROM Messages > Keep Current in the Bios.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> Hey Guys , and Girls , I updated my Sabertooth's AI with the Maximus Extreme's AI ..So far so good , , Fan Expert, and a bunch of others are updated ...
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/Maximus_V_Extreme/#overview


Thanks for that, everything seems to work.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3mc0n*
> 
> I've been having it as an auto offset for now. I tried a 0.1V offset even and that was blue screening on jumps down when I turned off prime, since that matches the voltages that I know are stable for me.


Don't leave auto when on offset.
Auto can provide needlessly up to 1.4 volts.

Try out an offset of + 0.005 to 0.035.
Also set LLC to high.


----------



## N3mc0n

I've put it back on Offset, right now I'm doing an offset of 0.035, with voltage normally at 1.1, shows as 1.11 in AI Suite, and yet under load it's 1.224V in Cpu-Z? LLC is on High, I'm just really confused how it's generating 1.224 from those settings.


----------



## archimonde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Boot > Optioin ROM Messages > Keep Current in the Bios.


It worked!. Thanks


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *archimonde*
> 
> It worked!. Thanks


Awesome, that one bugged me for a day or two until I found it . Not that I was rebooting often but just knowing it was doing that bugged me until I found it, lol. It seems the current bios, 1206, defaults with it off because people were noting that issue went away when they updated.


----------



## Blatsz32

my offset is 0.035-0.050, 0.050 is a bit much but I still don't go past 1.28v and my temps during BF3( my stability test), playing for 2hours are56-61c. When I use IntelBurn Test I get into the 70s but lets face it, there is nothign in our every day lives that puts that much pressure on our CPUs. the key to getting a good overclock IMO is being able to hit acceptable temps, votages and stability with as little LLC as you can get away with.

I studied my CPU voltages on Auto for a couple days and my temps were ok but it drew 1.40v..unacceptable. I was actually able to set my multiplier to 47 and run 5 passes of IBT with no BSOD. The only issue was the temps. 1.40v and 47 multi maybe great for a sucide run on a 3570kbut for 24-7 numbers..NO WAY. I'm using a custom water cooling loop and I still wouldn't feel comfy keeping it at that setting.

So, 2 days ago my loop sprung a leak.."leak" is an understatement. One of my hoses blew off the barb and the Swiftech MCP655, true to the reviews, shot all my fluid out with the force of a firehose. It sprayed all over my board, my memory, my drives, and my 2 Asus GTX570s.. I took my rig apart, dried everything for about 3hours, rebuilt the rig, hit the power switch and it booted right up..7 years ago, if this happened on my old 939socket or 775 socket motherboard it would have been the end. Asus has built a winner in the Sabertooth and their Direct CUII line of cards. I thought about selling my rig but now, I think i'm going to keep the system This board is just all win.


----------



## Jakusonfire




----------



## billythekid2012

My new ivy build

Case corsair 500R black // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX34572

Asus z77 sabertooth // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX38605

Corsair H100 // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX33765

I7-3770k // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX38982

Dominator Platinum 16GB // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39842

2TB Caviar Green 5400rpm // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX36055

Force Series 3 Solid State 120GB // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX33599

Corsair AX850 Power Supply // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX29514

Evga gtx 690 // http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX39386

I have it all most build just waiting on the memory and the gtx 690

Any thoughts on the build:

I do have one qution the 500R has a build in fan controler
and the z77 sabertooth has the asus fan xpert 2

What would be best to use the case controler or use the fan header on the motherboard
so i can use the asus fan xpert 2

I think i did good on the parts not sure on the memory as it newer but i liked how it looked and kind of matches the gtx 690.

I see a few of you using the H100 cooler can any one tell me what header i plug this in to ?


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N3mc0n*
> 
> I've put it back on Offset, right now I'm doing an offset of 0.035, with voltage normally at 1.1, shows as 1.11 in AI Suite, and yet under load it's 1.224V in Cpu-Z? LLC is on High, I'm just really confused how it's generating 1.224 from those settings.


Try a lower offset.

I'm on +0.005 currently.
Running a 45x multi, I idle at 0.968, I load at 1.192v.
LLC high, cpu current capability 140%, vPLL 1.7v, speedstep & C1E enabled.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> 90.
> I see a few of you using the H100 cooler can any one tell me what header i plug this in to ?


...That goes to the cpu fan connector on the mobo. It is labled on the mobo. Your radiator fans will plug directly into the unit controller.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> ...That goes to the cpu fan connector on the mobo. It is labled on the mobo. Your radiator fans will plug directly into the unit controller.


Ok thanks

but witch one there 3 headers { cpu in / cpu out / and a Chase fan header} or does it matter


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Ok thanks
> but witch one there 3 headers { cpu in / cpu out / and a Chase fan header} or does it matter


It's the cpu fan connector next to the 8 pin ATX power connector at the top of the mobo. Should be the only one labeled as the cpu fan...

To clarify, there should be a chassis fan (CHA_FAN), a cpu optional fan (CPU_OPT), and a cpu fan connector (CPU_FAN). The cpu fan is the one you want.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> It's the cpu fan connector next to the 8 pin ATX power connector at the top of the mobo. Should be the only one labeled as the cpu fan...
> To clarify, there should be a chassis fan (CHA_FAN), a cpu optional fan (CPU_OPT), and a cpu fan connector (CPU_FAN). The cpu fan is the one you want.


this one right sorry i just want to be right


----------



## Tiktok79

Yup thats the one!


----------



## Willhemmens

Would anyone with a decently clocked 3770K or 3570K post a couple of screen shots of there BIOS'?


----------



## javaneze

4.5 decent enough?









here you are...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Willhemmens

Cheers, that's helpful. I could get 4.5 alright but 4.6 was instaBSOD underload. Even with a full loop temps don't seem very good. Unless I know I've got a good chip, I'm not going to take the IHS off.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Cheers, that's helpful. I could get 4.5 alright but 4.6 was instaBSOD underload. Even with a full loop temps don't seem very good. Unless I know I've got a good chip, I'm not going to take the IHS off.


4.5 was my max as well... I haven't found anyone that could safely stabilize more than 4.5 without some serious mods/extreme-type cooling... Guess I was expecting too much from the ivy... Also temps seem to naturally be A LOT higher with these chips and from everyone I've talked to and read about, they say it's normal and nothing to worry about. Your thoughts on this?


----------



## Blatsz32

I hit 4.6 on Auto voltage. 1.40 is the max, you can hit 4.6 at that voltage. I hit 80c on custom water loop 3570k. Max LLC

Actually I do belive 1.38 was the sweet spot for 4.6 with my chip. I was able to run IBT 5passes Standard. then I tried converting a downloaded movie to dvd and i got a lock-up. I reset it back to 4.5 and raised my BClk to 103.0 running stable with 1.30voltage


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> I hit 4.6 on Auto voltage. 1.40 is the max, you can hit 4.6 at that voltage. I hit 80c on custom water loop 3570k. Max LLC
> Actually I do belive 1.38 was the sweet spot for 4.6 with my chip. I was able to run IBT 5passes Standard. then I tried converting a downloaded movie to dvd and i got a lock-up. I reset it back to 4.5 and raised my BClk to 103.0 running stable with 1.30voltage


Seems I'm getting similar results with 4.5 @ 1.28v fixed 101.0 Bclk stable 24/7. Max temps 82C at 100%.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Seems I'm getting similar results with 4.5 @ 1.28v fixed 101.0 Bclk stable 24/7. Max temps 82C at 100%.


So then the consensus stands at 4.5 being the absolute stable max thus far on standard water cooling?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> So then the consensus stands at 4.5 being the absolute stable max thus far on standard water cooling?


I'm using a Corsair H100. A 30% over clock seems to be very doable for most Ivy 3770's from what's being reported. I'd say that's a safe assessment of over clock ability average.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I'm using a Corsair H100. A 30% over clock seems to be very doable for most Ivy 3770's from what's being reported. I'd say that's a safe assessment of over clock ability average.


Awesome, I've got the h100 as well with the 3570 and i've experienced the same.


----------



## Willhemmens

Perhaps I'll settle for 4.5 then. I'll still go for 4.6GHz if possible though. I'm often seeing temps hit 86C at high voltages.

Flicked a couple of switches in the UEFI and I'm at 4.6, 1.38v under load. wPrime 1024M completed in 186.143 secs. Max was 76C.

Next to see what happens when I fire up LinX, then Prime.

Edit: Linx seems good, temps hit 86C.

Edit: One core failed in Prime, temps hit 88C.

Edit: Upped the Offset to 0.75, CPUZ says 1.384v underload. Prime seems to be completing but temps hit 92C which is pretty hot but they'll never get near that in day to day things.
Mosfets appear to be cool too the touch even with everything on extreme. I just turned on one of the little fans that I have screwed on to the heatsink, I don't have the thermal armour on.

Edit: Going to leave it on Blend for a while, only reaches 78C doing that.

It's been going for about 30 minutes fine, temps hit 90C durin this period. On the upside, I think I'm pretty stable at 4.6GHz! Just using a 46 Multi. I'll see how it goes for now and save a profile in the UEFI.

Next up is playing with the CPU at -50C, Phase here I come.


----------



## javaneze

Multi: 46x LLC: ultra high
Bios Vcore: offset +0.050 , idle 1.032v - load 1.288v
Linx Max temps: 82 - 92 - 91 - 88



Multi: 47x LLC: ultra high
Bios Vcore: manual 1.3v
Linx max temps: 85 - 97 - 94 - 91



Both runs are linx-avx stable and a couple or three hours of max payne 3.
I'm not in to benching though, so I see no benefit in running that high for games alone.
I don't care about temps either, games are not that cpu demanding so highest I get in any given frequency is 65 to 70 C. (room temp 30-35 C)

A 4.2 to 4.4 OC is more than enough for gaming even with sli/cf configurations.


----------



## Tiktok79

Javaneze, why change the settings in LLC? I leave mine at Auto and just wandering what do those settings do? I know the options are Regular, High, Ultra High, and Extreme. What do each of these do exactly?


----------



## JimT1701

Hi all new to the board and to this thread. I just build my first rig and I love it everything turned out great.

ASUS Sabertooth Z77 Mobo
Intel i7-3770S
Coolermaster 212
16GB Corsair Vengence Low Profile
Antec EarthWatts 750
Corsair Obsidian 650D Case
Samsung 830 128GB SSD for the OS
LG BD-ROM DVD-R

It even booted up the first time no issues. I installed the OS at work using a DP monitor and the iGPU and did not have any issues. When I brought it home I connected a Dell DP>DVI adapter and booted up to see no video. Brought the DP monitor home from work and booted up with native DP and viola video again. Does this mobo support DP>DVI or is the Dell converter jacked up? I know this is not quite an overclocking question but it is related to the mobo. Overall the rig is solid. Been ripping Blu-rays and compressing down to 720p for storage on my NAS getting almost real-time encoding with an average of 20-24 FPS pretty damn good. Built this rig primarily for Blu-Ray ripping/encoding and to server as my Plex Server. I am using Server 2008 R2 as the OS. If anyone has thoughts on my video output conundrum I would be most appreciative.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Javaneze, why change the settings in LLC? I leave mine at Auto and just wandering what do those settings do? I know the options are Regular, High, Ultra High, and Extreme. What do each of these do exactly?


LLC is used to deal with the vdroop effect.
Helpful reads on vdroop here and here.

Practically, you get a more consistent vcore as you put a more aggressive setting, and a more accurate result to what you manually set for vcore in bios

Leaving it on auto can cause what an auto offset can cause.
More or less voltage than that really needed.

For example, on my current settings, multi 45x, vcore offset +0.005, speedstep & C1E enabled, I get the following results

LLC Regular: idle 0.918v - Load 1.15v / bsod under linx
LLC High: idle 0.968v - Load 1.192v-1.2v / linx stable
LLC Ultra High: idle 1.032v - Load 1.288v / linx stable.

As you can imagine, I stuck with high.


----------



## Tiktok79

Oh ok I see now, thank you very much for clearing this up for me!!!


----------



## Wolfie84

Hello all,

Im planning on buying this board in the next couple days. I have a strange request though, I live over seas and will be shipping this board home, where i will then pick it up when i visit next week and bring it back to the middle east with me along with my new ram, CPU and CPU cooler.

My question is, is there an way to test all my new equip without greasing the CPU? I want to make sure everything is in working order before I drag it all halfway around the world. SO, would it be safe to just rig everything up real quick without thermal paste? I just want to make sure the board posts and the ram is recognized.

This is my first build and i may be going about this whole thing wrong, feel free to set me straight if thats the case, im here to learn.


----------



## Willhemmens

If you're getting a CPU cooler, it'll probably come with TIM. To be honest, you'll probably be fine as if the CPU did get too hot, it should hit the TJ and shut off. I'd use TIM anyway though, even a dot is enough just to make some contact between the two.


----------



## fairman

Can any1 pls help setting up kingston NON xmp memories with sabertooth z77?
This is the memory
blu - 4GB Module - DDR3 1600MHz CL9 DIMM
Part Number: KHX1600C9D3B1/4G
HTS: 8473.30.1140, ECCN: EAR99
Specs: DDR3, 1600MHz, CL9, 1.65V, Unbuffered, Spec Sheet PDF
Profile 1: 1600MHz, 9-9-9, 1.65V
Profile 2: 1333MHz, 9-9-9, 1.5V
It only shows as 1333 and with no XMP available for this I need to adjust several things except the 1600mhz and the 16,5v
these are the kingston instructions but the uefi is quite different from the bios they referring and not sure how to do it.
"Adjust the FSB (Hyper Transport) and the CPU ratio as well to raise the speed of the whole system to match the 1600 MHz speed of the memory, not only the memory clock to the 1600 MHz.

Try to raise the voltage of the Northbridge as well as the module voltage by 0.05V each time. After some try/fail settings you should be able to run the system on the faster timings, even though we cannot guarantee that it will run on the highest one, because the whole system's stability is also influenced by the other components (HDD, Graphics card, etc) "


----------



## Wolfie84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> If you're getting a CPU cooler, it'll probably come with TIM. To be honest, you'll probably be fine as if the CPU did get too hot, it should hit the TJ and shut off. I'd use TIM anyway though, even a dot is enough just to make some contact between the two.


Im trying to avoid having to remove any paste when i rebuild later, is that silly? now that im typing it out it seems silly.


----------



## winchenbach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord 666*
> 
> VT-d and ESXi5.0
> Have a special project that I need to start ASAP for a client. Basically start a temporary production environment either using ESXi 5.0 or Workstation 8 while the real production servers are ordered. Just so happens I have the Sabertooth z77 still sitting new in a box and going to use it as a base.
> So basically my questions are;
> 1. I just ordered the 3770 (non-k) this morning specifically for VT-d. Has anyone confirmed that with the latest bios and a non-K IB cpu that VT-d is exposed and not just VT-x?
> 2. Has anyone installed ESXi 5.0 with the Sabertooth yet? The Intel nic should do well and everything else.
> 3. Looking to max out the memory at 32gb, but the QVL memory is way too expensive. Looking at Corsair Vengence 32gb kit (4*8gb) of 1600 (CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10) or 1866 (CMZ32GX3M4X1866C10). Neither are on the QVL, but do not see why there would be an issue. Thats a big chunk of change less than the 32gb kit on the QVL.
> Thanks


Lord 666, I'm wondering if you have confirmed vt-d support on the Sabertooth z77 board. I'm looking for a board to support ESXi (with vt-d) also and would like to go with this board if it indeed is confirmed to work.

thanks,
Winchenbach


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> If you're getting a CPU cooler, it'll probably come with TIM. To be honest, you'll probably be fine as if the CPU did get too hot, it should hit the TJ and shut off


Odds are it will just keep underclocking/undervolting and not even shut off.









*Wolfie84* it does sound a bit silly mate, why risk damaging it?
The paste can just be wiped away with a cloth or napkin, no need for anything more.

@*Tiktok79* you are welcome mate


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> So then the consensus stands at 4.5 being the absolute stable max thus far on standard water cooling?


4.6 with an H100 and i can game for any amount of time and not go above 60c in stress test i barely stay under 80c....stable as a tripod tho. Useing 1.255 cpu voltage and .92500 VCCSA Voltage...


----------



## Wolfie84

*Wolfie84* it does sound a bit silly mate, why risk damaging it?
The paste can just be wiped away with a cloth or napkin, no need for anything more.

yeah, I see that now. Any idea what I should look for when testing the board/ram? should i stress test the system or should the board posting and ram recognizing give me piece of mind?


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> 4.6 with an H100 and i can game for any amount of time and not go above 60c in stress test i barely stay under 80c....stable as a tripod tho. Useing 1.255 cpu voltage and .92500 VCCSA Voltage...


Very nice!! I can't wait to get my board back and try this out. I was able to get 4.5 on air maxing out at around 84c. Have an H80 now waiting for the new board...
Love to push that multiplier up another notch and see what happens! Let us know if you successfully get any higher.


----------



## Saurk66

Ok, got my Sabertooth Z77 / i5-3570k system up and running. I am OCed at 4.6GHz and have yet to break 50 degrees C, even under full load!

Either my Antec Kuhler 620 is doing a fantastic job or I have a hold of a great chip.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Ok, got my Sabertooth Z77 / i5-3570k system up and running. I am OCed at 4.6GHz and have yet to break 50 degrees C, even under full load!
> Either my Antec Kuhler 620 is doing a fantastic job or I have a hold of a great chip.


Excellent! Which settings did you have to tweak to get to that speed? I'm getting anxious to get my board back!!


----------



## cmeabon

I got my Sabertooth z77 on July 3rd. Everything was working great until yesterday, I tried turning on my machine and got the VGA_LED light steady. MOBO speaker beeped once. (This was with default BIOS Settings). In order to get a proper boot I have to reset the CMOS. (moving jumper and then moving it back) It will work for a little bit but then after turning off and back on the VGA_LED light comes back.

Has anyone heard of an issue like this or have any recommendations?

Thank You


----------



## saxdude

Can't thank Magzire enough! (and others on here). I cannot believe it was the crappy iControl that has been the cause of my terrible network upload speeds. I had version AISuite_II_V10229_SABERTOOTH-Z77_XPWin7 I got in early June apparently just before they did another update) Finally did a search on "Z77 slow upload". Now I've uninstalled it and networking is like my other machines.
Thanks everyone.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> 4.6 with an H100 and i can game for any amount of time and not go above 60c in stress test i barely stay under 80c....stable as a tripod tho. Useing 1.255 cpu voltage and .92500 VCCSA Voltage...


Awesome, so a couple people have indeed hit 4.6 with no problems. Maybe my chip isn't so hot...







Anyway, as someone else previously mentioned, I run my chip at around 4.3 because I mainly just game. I wish I could post pics but I only have time to get on OCN at work... Maybe there is just something i'm missing that I can tweak. My average temps are around 80-mid 70s with 4.5 clock, but the voltage is what worries me... at 1.3+ which is ridic IMO for 4.5... am I wrong? I have seemingly tried everything to bring the voltage down and remain at 4.5, to no avail.


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfie84*
> 
> Im trying to avoid having to remove any paste when i rebuild later, is that silly? now that im typing it out it seems silly.


That is not an issue. I've done it before. Just stick the heatsink on top of the CPU and boot into the BIOS. As soon as you have confirmed that, shut it down immediately. The CPU will be fine in any case since it has an auto temp shutdown if for some reason it gets too hot during that time (which it shouldn't).


----------



## Cowboy10uk

Hi guys, new build here.

I currently have the sabertooth Z77 and 3570k on there way to me, and will be joining this with 8gb corsair 1600mhz mem and the H100 cooler. In installed in a coolermaster storm trooper case.

Would this be enough cooling to run the 3570k at 4.4 ghz, I've heard she runs rather hot, or would I be better going for an air cooler like Noctua NH D14 or Artic cooling freezer pro 13?

Also how easy is it to overclock, while I can put the components together and get a working pc ok, I have NO idea when it comes to overclocking. Is there anywhere with the bios settings for a 4.4 OC. Would hate to fry my new pc straight away.

Thanks or reading.

Cowboy10uk


----------



## Willhemmens

Well this is what I'm at. I'd like to reduce that voltage though.
Seems the i7 with HT runs hotter and needs more voltage, I guess that kind of makes sense though.


----------



## Makkqverk

have any of you had any boot issues? i'm having one now, described more in my thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1280157/boot-issue-z77-sabertooth-need-help-ssd-disks


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Ok, got my Sabertooth Z77 / i5-3570k system up and running. I am OCed at *4.6*GHz and have yet to break *5*0 degrees C, even under full load!


Is that a typo?
Because if its not, it is either snowing in texas, or you have a cpu temp sensor not working properly.
Except if by "full load" you mean something like video playback.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Is that a typo?
> Because if its not, it is either snowing in texas, or you have a cpu temp sensor not working properly.
> Except if by "full load" you mean something like video playback.


I'd almost put money on it that he is referring to the temps from the AIsuite software... If so, hope you haven't been running "full load" too often... because AIsuite temps are definitely NOT accurate.


----------



## Saurk66

I actually dropped the voltage to 1.22V and used a 103MHz base clock with a 45 multiplier....no issues with stability.

Looks like likethegun is not having similar results with a similar cooling system (I have a Kuhler 620), not sure why. I do know these chips differ from one to the next.

The i5-3570k ROCKS! Can't imagine why anyone interested in OCing would go to the i7...don't waste your money! I will put my i5 up against any i7 and at least just do just as well...except do it 20C cooler.

Should mention, I got to 4.3GHz just using the Auto-Tune in Ai Suite. First time/noob OCers should start there.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> I actually dropped the voltage to 1.22V and used a 103MHz base clock with a 45 multiplier....no issues with stability.
> Looks like likethegun is not having similar results with a similar cooling system (I have a Kuhler 620), not sure why. I do know these chips differ from one to the next.
> The i5-3570k ROCKS! Can't imagine why anyone interested in OCing would go to the i7...don't waste your money! I will put my i5 up against any i7 and at least just do just as well...except do it 20C cooler.
> Should mention, I got to 4.3GHz just using the Auto-Tune in Ai Suite. First time/noob OCers should start there.


Yeah how is that Auto OC feature in the bios? Does it run in way too hot temperatures?

I have a H80 cooler with my 3570k and my room is kinda hot. I hit 71 degrees max with stock spees. (turbo mode is on at 3570k clocks to 3.8 though) Also my h80 runs at the lowest setting because the fans are loud. I am getting new fans over the weekend.


----------



## Saurk66

Haha, saw this right after I just posted, sorry for the double post.

It is definitely NOT snowing here.

I am loading the CPU by running Diablo III and MW3 at the same time, using the onboard Intel 4000 GPU. If that's not load I don't know what is...

Highest temp I got was 42C. Now this is an AC room ~70F. I have a ton of fans and a push/pull liquid cooling. Did I just get lucky with this chip?

Also, I assume Ai Suite pulls the CPU temp of the MB sensor just like any other CPU temp monitor would.....why would it be wrong? If it is indeed inaccurate, the my benchmarks have been **** and I could get into to trouble...I will look into this further.


----------



## Tiktok79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Should mention, I got to 4.3GHz just using the Auto-Tune in Ai Suite. First time/noob OCers should start there.


Saurk66, where did you download the version of AI Suite that has the Auto Tune feature? I have the latest version from Asus Sabertooth z77 download section and it doesn't have that feature. I been wanting to test that feature out since i'm still a n00b at OC'ing.

Thanks bud.


----------



## Willhemmens

Everyone else uses core temps, not CPU/Socket temps. AISuite usage CPU/Socket temp. Would have thought you would have known that.


----------



## Saurk66

I did know that but I thought the Ai suite temp was the average of all 4 cores....no? Well no wonder my temps are so low...what would you recommend to monitor core temps? speedfan?

TikTok, the auto tune I used is in BIOS. Just click on the AI Tweaker and set it to auto.


----------



## Tiktok79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> TikTok, the auto tune I used is in BIOS. Just click on the AI Tweaker and set it to auto.


Ah ok, yea I use that as well as my starting point to get me going. Thought you actually meant the Auto Tune feature that the AI Suite software has for the other Asus motherboards.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Ah ok, yea I use that as well as my starting point to get me going. Thought you actually meant the Auto Tune feature that the AI Suite software has for the other Asus motherboards.


I had an Asus P8z68v-le before and the Auto Tune feature was in AI Sutie as well, but yeah they dont have it for the Sabertooth Z77


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> I did know that but I thought the Ai suite temp was the average of all 4 cores....no? Well no wonder my temps are so low...what would you recommend to monitor core temps? speedfan?
> TikTok, the auto tune I used is in BIOS. Just click on the AI Tweaker and set it to auto.


Realtemp or Coretemp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I had an Asus P8z68v-le before and the Auto Tune feature was in AI Sutie as well, but yeah they dont have it for the Sabertooth Z77


Get a copy of AI Suite for the P8z68v-le, don't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Saurk66

Ok, downloaded real temp and 3D Mark to do some benchmarking the right way....
....feeling like a noob right now....doh!


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Ok, downloaded real temp and 3D Mark to do some benchmarking the right way....
> ....feeling like a noob right now....doh!


The way you stability test isn't so noobish. In a past post I mentioned that IBT or Prime isn't going to produce realistic temps. No one loads thier CPU like those Stability tests do. When I Overclock I test my basic stability with IBT, a 5 pass run at standard, just to see if my voltages are good. Once it passes that I'll do the real world BF3 gaming test. If it passes 2hours of heavy gaming, then it's passed my stability test. 100% core usage on all cores for 14hours straight doesn't seem realistic. The fluctuations in core usage with voltage drops seem more realistic. If you can hold your clock trhough those fluctuations then I think you're golden.

On a custom water loop at 4.6, 1.38v, I'll usually get 68-78c while gaming. when I run IBT my max temp will peak out at 90c then lvl off to the same as my gaming temps.
when you test your overclock I suggest you have CPU-Z or EVGA ELEET, CoreTemp or HWMonitor, , and TMonitor ( to watch core usage) open so that you can monitor temps and voltages. test stability with IBT ( IntelBurnTest) or OCCT... if it passes IBTs 5passes or OCCT 5min, then try a gaming run. Sometimes it'll pass IBT or OCCT but while you are gaming you'll get an unexplained crash out of game..not a BSOD. that usually means the OC isn't stable for gaming and you've encontered a WHEA..usually a memory issue.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeabon*
> 
> I got my Sabertooth z77 on July 3rd. Everything was working great until yesterday, I tried turning on my machine and got the VGA_LED light steady. MOBO speaker beeped once. (This was with default BIOS Settings). In order to get a proper boot I have to reset the CMOS. (moving jumper and then moving it back) It will work for a little bit but then after turning off and back on the VGA_LED light comes back.
> Has anyone heard of an issue like this or have any recommendations?
> Thank You


Could you post your system please. I had that issue I resolved it by reseating the card. I have 2 cards though. Have you tried a diffrent PCI slot to see if the same thing happens?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi fellow overclockers,

I'm very interested in this board for my upcoming build.

Can anyone tell me the maximum ram speed it can handle, I want 2400mhz ram and then some.

And also is 4.8 achievable with a 3570k.


----------



## Blatsz32

Someone on this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/1360#post_17667795 did mange 4.8 on a 3570k on their suicide run..so yes its attainable..just not advisable
By the way, it's a good thread to get a base reference on overclocks....just remember everyone, not all CPUs are created equally. Not everyone is going to get that magic 1.24v and 4.6 overclock


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Thanks I would be happy with 4.6, I have water cooling so hopefully temperatures wont be an issue.

Just discovered that there is no performance boost from 1600mhz ram to 2400mhz ram, I read it is like 1% increase.


----------



## Wolfie84

Was wondering if i need a fan controller with this board, or if the "fan expert" is good enough. gonna have 7 fans in an Antec 1100.


----------



## Willhemmens

Been using Fan expert to control my fans, it's pretty damn good. Normally I just runs my fans at 800RPM-1000RPM on my fan controller. Most of the time running with Fan Expert my main rad fans stay off and my little 280 at the bottom of my case with very little air flow is enough to keep things cool.

So I would say yes, it's surprisingly good.

I'm running 12 fans off mine.


----------



## Saurk66

Morning!

Last night I downloaded 3D Mark and Real Temp. Ran a 3D Mark Test with Real Temp open in the background. The max core temp I got a 4.3GHz was 57C, the average was around 50c.

I think tonight I will bump the voltage up a tiny bit and see if I can get to 4.6GHz.

I am going to get a hold of IBT and OCCT and check them out. Seems like 3D Mark is pretty limited with the demo license. Your certainly right though, I didn't build the rig to get good benchmark scores, I built it to kick butt at MW3 and Diablo III so there is no better test than playing a game for a few hours. Thanks for the good advice.

BTW side question, I have 32GB of 1600MHz DDR3 (Corsair Vengeance), is it worth overclocking?


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfie84*
> 
> Was wondering if i need a fan controller with this board, or if the "fan expert" is good enough. gonna have 7 fans in an Antec 1100.


You can use the thermal radar fan control or fan xpert2. Both are excellent. The former allows for tying control to the various temp sensors on the board but limits the bottom end of PWM case fans to 40% while the latter ties control to only CPU temp but allows PWM case fans to go down to 30%. I'll quote myself:
Quote:


> Fan Control. Asus really has a nice fan control package on this board. Whereas Fan Expert II (which also works with this board although Asus claims that it doesn't), ties all fan control to CPU temp, the Thermal Radar fan control allows you to pick any one or up to a combination of three different temp sensors on the board off of which to base fan control. Unfortunately, Asus ruins this nice feature by basing the software off of what appears to be fan xpert+ since you cannot bring the non-CPU fans to under 40% (you can, however, as in fan xpert2, stop the case fans below a certain temp). So, you are faced with a tough choice, use the Thermal Radar fan control to take advantage of multiple temp sensors but have your non-CPU PWM fans limited to a minimum running speed of 40% or use fan xpert2 and be able to have your non-CPU PWM fans drop down to a a speed of 30% but have all fans tied to CPU temp. There is no reason that we should have to make this choice.


----------



## iARDAs

Guys how are my temperatures?

I have an Aerocool Xpredator case.

1 230mm fan on the front as intake

1 140mm fan on the bottom as intake

2 140mm fans on the top as exhaust

1 Corsair H80 CPU cooler mounted on the rear. The fan on the back of H80 is getting cool air from outside, and the other fan in the other side of H80 is in the same direction of the rear fan.

My Gigabyte 670 OC with a mild OC is 73 degrees maximum with about 60-65% fan speed

My i5 3570k runs around 67-69 degrees when gaming in BF3, it is not OCed but the multiplier is 3.8 *100 thanks to the Turbo mode on the CPU. I rarely see it at 3.4.

Am I safe for the time being?

I am thinking of adding a 2nd 670 down the line, will temperatures be ever get into the danger zone if I add a 2nd 670?

Also please note that I only installed the rear Turbo fan as exhaust on the motherboard. Should I disable it? Since the Corsair's fan is an intake fan right next to it? Maybe the heat that the turbo fan is pumping outside is being sucked a little by the h80s fan since they are very very close to each other?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> My Gigabyte 670 OC with a mild OC is 73 degrees maximum with about 60-65% fan speed
> My i5 3570k runs around 67-69 degrees when gaming in BF3, it is not OCed but the multiplier is 3.8 *100 thanks to the Turbo mode on the CPU. I rarely see it at 3.4.


What are your voltages at? Have you left them on Auto? I think you could stand to lower the voltage to offset+ 0.035 if you don't plan on overclocking. If you leave it on Auto, when you game it will crank itself up to 1.40v which is way to high for stock..it will also produce a lot of heat. Depending on your ambient temps, if you lower your voltage, you might also lower your CPU load temps. I don't think your mobo exhaust fan will make a diff on your intake..your cards seem to be sitting at the right temp for BF3..I'm thinking your high CPU temps (they are high for 3.8) is the voltage

Saurk, unless you are changing the BCLK , then having no choice but to OC the RAM, there really isn't any benefiet to OCing your RAM. leave it at it's XMP


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> What are your voltages at? Have you left them on Auto? I think you could stand to lower the voltage to offset+ 0.035 if you don't plan on overclocking. If you leave it on Auto, when you game it will crank itself up to 1.40v which is way to high for stock..it will also produce a lot of heat. Depending on your ambient temps, if you lower your voltage, you might also lower your CPU load temps. I don't think your mobo exhaust fan will make a diff on your intake..your cards seem to be sitting at the right temp for BF3..I'm thinking your high CPU temps (they are high for 3.8) is the voltage
> Saurk, unless you are changing the BCLK , then having no choice but to OC the RAM, there really isn't any benefiet to OCing your RAM. leave it at it's XMP


I have everything set at AUTO on my UEFI except i switched the ram speed to 1600mhz...

SO all i should do now is to go to the UEFI and make the voltage offset .035?

I will do that.


----------



## iARDAs

Also I noticed something guys.

My CPU is always at 3.8... Never gets lower when idle. Do i have to enable something on the motherboard for that?

my old 2500k would hit 4500 OCed and go to 1600 when idle as far as i remember.


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Also I noticed something guys.
> 
> My CPU is always at 3.8... Never gets lower when idle. Do i have to enable something on the motherboard for that?
> 
> my old 2500k would hit 4500 OCed and go to 1600 when idle as far as i remember.


It is a problem with the Asus BIOS when you manually set RAM speed. Set it back to AUTO and the CPU will downclock properly. I had the same issue.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bar81*
> 
> It is a problem with the Asus BIOS when you manually set RAM speed. Set it back to AUTO and the CPU will downclock properly. I had the same issue.


Nope no luck.

I set it at Auto and the CPU still works at 3.8 

Its alright though I am not too bothered about it.

Also guys i changed my Off Set Cpu Voltage to +0.05 and now according to CPUZ my vcore is 1.240 max.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Nope no luck.
> 
> I set it at Auto and the CPU still works at 3.8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its alright though I am not too bothered about it.
> 
> Also guys i changed my Off Set Cpu Voltage to +0.05 and now according to CPUZ my vcore is 1.240 max.


What are you using to monitor it? Core Temp doesnt show correctly for me Asus AI Suite II monitor and CPU-Z do. On core temp it looks like it never drops below 3.6 but the other two will show that its hitting 1.6 range idled.


----------



## javaneze

I use +0.005 for my 4.5 oc.
I think you could easily get away with something like - 0.100 to -0.050 running stock.

Which ram sticks do you have? Don't they support xmp profiles?

Also set speedstep and C1E to enabled and not auto to see if that makes a difference in your idle clocks.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> What are you using to monitor it? Core Temp doesnt show correctly for me Asus AI Suite II monitor and CPU-Z do. On core temp it looks like it never drops below 3.6 but the other two will show that its hitting 1.6 range idled.


Hmmm I was looking through Core Temp. Maybe that was the problem. However I just entered Asus Ai Suite 2 and went to the option MONITOR. And the CPU frequency stays at 3800 there too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I use +0.005 for my 4.5 oc.
> I think you could easily get away with something like - 0.100 to -0.050 running stock.
> Which ram sticks do you have? Don't they support xmp profiles?
> Also set speedstep and C1E to enabled and not auto to see if that makes a difference in your idle clocks.


Hmmmm than if i make my CPU run in higher clocks, lets say 4,5 like you, than my temperatures will stay the same than right? Sice i will be using 0.005 and the rest will be at auto.


----------



## javaneze

Nope









Frequency plays its part temperature wise, is not all about the vcore.

Use Cpu-Z to monitor your frequency, not temp utilities, they just show your top speed.


----------



## iARDAs

Ok thank you guys.

I OCed my 3570k to 4.0 with BCLK at 100.00

In BF3 on a 45 player map my CPU hit 64 degrees.

My offset is -0.010 on the BIOS and here is my 3Dmark11 score

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3861368

With a mildly OCed Gigabyte 670

Quite happy with the setup so far. Also my H80 is working on MEDIUM, when i get my quieter Noctua fans i will see if HIGH setting will be quiet therefor I can haver lower temperatures.


----------



## machiavelli1986

I have the same problem like lzepplin01, its driving me crazy. Turbo Ratio and some settings are missing. Internal GPU Settings are missing. Instead of 16gb ram I have only 8gb (but cpu-z is showing 16gb and asus spd information in bios too.) Furthermore my cpu (3570k) only goes to 3610mhz under prime95, really strange. Asus support is for nuts. the only idea they send me was that i should connect the 8pin cpu power, not the 4pin (of course i connected with a 8pin). i also wrote that i did a cmos reset, and the only thing they told me was that i should do a cmos reset. really funny. i also checked the ram slots.A1 and B1 works together as A2 and B2 does too. so if i use them seperatly with only 2x4gb it works, so the slots are fine. but over 1333 and 8gb is not possible. i have some corsair vengeance 4x4gb 1866. i thinks the only thing i can do is going for rma too. i have no other idea.


----------



## skiline

just signed in to this forum.
I purchased the sabertooth motherboard 2 weeks ago and built my first PC took me 3hours was very careful lol and nervous but did a good job ( i think) could have chosen a better case for cable management but like the final built.

motherboard: z77 sabertooth
cpu: intel i5 3570k
case: antec 902 v3
psu: OCZ ZX Series 1250W
cooler : antec 920 kulher
ram: G.SKILL F3-12800CL10Q-32GBZL Ripjawsz 32GB 4X8GB DDR3-1600
ssd: Crucial M4 Micron C400 SSD 256GB
hdd:Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM SATA3 64MB
display: asus ve278q



I also subscribe to this forum for the overclock experts in here you were very helpful

here are my results 4.5ghz

did intelburntest and monitored the temps to see what program was better the AI suite II from asus showed a different temps (54c for cpu ) then real temp ( 71 80 77 75 celcius for each core) and core temp ( 71 80 75 75 celcius for each core )so i am confused what to look for are my temps to high ???



im gona do prime95 test for 2 hours and see if it stable did another IBT 10 passes with succes


----------



## Trelution

I have a bit of a noobish question for you guys. Finishing up my first build and was getting ready to hook up the drive and install windows. Then I remembered I had a sound card. an Asus Xonar DG. I go to install it in the lowest slot and it won't fit to my dismay. Bottom line is can this PCI card fit into the Sabertooth anywhere and I'm being dumb? I'm wary of trying to force it anywhere. Such a popular card I figure this would be the place to ask since my last hour of googling left me scratching my head. I got it for $20 off amazon one day after hearing so much about it, but didn't bother researching any further. So I won't be heartbroken if I cant use it. Thanks in advance and sorry if this is the wrong place to ask this.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelution*
> 
> I have a bit of a noobish question for you guys. Finishing up my first build and was getting ready to hook up the drive and install windows. Then I remembered I had a sound card. an Asus Xonar DG. I go to install it in the lowest slot and it won't fit to my dismay. Bottom line is can this PCI card fit into the Sabertooth anywhere and I'm being dumb? I'm wary of trying to force it anywhere. Such a popular card I figure this would be the place to ask since my last hour of googling left me scratching my head. I got it for $20 off amazon one day after hearing so much about it, but didn't bother researching any further. So I won't be heartbroken if I cant use it. Thanks in advance and sorry if this is the wrong place to ask this.


That pci card is not compatible with pci-e


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelution*
> 
> I have a bit of a noobish question for you guys. Finishing up my first build and was getting ready to hook up the drive and install windows. Then I remembered I had a sound card. an Asus Xonar DG. I go to install it in the lowest slot and it won't fit to my dismay. Bottom line is can this PCI card fit into the Sabertooth anywhere and I'm being dumb? I'm wary of trying to force it anywhere. Such a popular card I figure this would be the place to ask since my last hour of googling left me scratching my head. I got it for $20 off amazon one day after hearing so much about it, but didn't bother researching any further. So I won't be heartbroken if I cant use it. Thanks in advance and sorry if this is the wrong place to ask this.


PCI slots and PCI Express slots are not compatible; therefore you should not try to interchange cards between these two slot types. bummer though .. nice sound card


----------



## samuraix20

Hello. My board is coming around next week and I'm debating if I want to get the Intel i7-3770 or 3770k. I don't have much interest in overclocking but it's partly because I don't know if my Corsair A50 can handle such a thing.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181012

I have no interest nor money to buy a water cooler in the future and I do some mild video editing and gaming. So if I decide to want to overclock to 4.5ghz, will my A50 handle it? Hope to hear a reply soon.


----------



## whitestsand

Hello All!! Last week a lighting storm took out my ASRock Z68 Ex4 Gen3........







At the time I was bummed, but it turned out to be a blessing!!!! My CPU and PSU survived so I checked out the ol NewEgg and found an open box Asus Z77 Sabertooth (not being to rich) I jumped on the open box deal. Before it came I read about half of this forum.

Before I bought the ASRock I was going back and forth between that and an ASUS board. I thought I would take a chance with the ASRock,,,WRONG..... This SaberT rocks

I have it up and running, instead of using the ssd as a cache I installed my OS on it and it is a great improvement. Now that I have said HI i do have a question (first of maybe a few)...

I installed AI Suite II. There is no icon to start it. It does not show up in start under asus installed programs,,,,, Neither does it show up in control panel / programs..... But it is in the Programs Files 86x folder on Local disk, where there is no uninstall or app to start AI suite II.......I have tried to install it a few times (New version from asus) but have not been able to uninstall it first....

Help... How do I uninstall it, to reinstall it??? I just dont want to delete it from the programs file do I?? Revo uninstaller wont find it.
Forgive me if has been covered in this forum before..


----------



## warakawa

hello, is this how I suppose to update the bios for Z77 ST?

I checked system information I am still on 0801, so I downloaded version 1206 from Asus, rename it to Z77ST.cap, put it on USB, shut down the computer, stick the usb into the motherboard and press the flash button?

are this steps correct?


----------



## Bobmitch

That is correct. When you push the button...it will blink. When the blinking is done...so is the flash


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraix20*
> 
> Hello. My board is coming around next week and I'm debating if I want to get the Intel i7-3770 or 3770k. I don't have much interest in overclocking but it's partly because I don't know if my Corsair A50 can handle such a thing.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181012
> I have no interest nor money to buy a water cooler in the future and I do some mild video editing and gaming. So if I decide to want to overclock to 4.5ghz, will my A50 handle it? Hope to hear a reply soon.


I would still go with the 3770K for now. Should you decide to make adjustments later...you'll have headroom. Not much room to do much with the regular 3770...


----------



## Trelution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> PCI slots and PCI Express slots are not compatible; therefore you should not try to interchange cards between these two slot types. bummer though .. nice sound card


Thanks for the confirmation. I was afraid of that, but it's my own fault. It was such a great deal I bought first and thought later. Guess I'll add it to the spare parts bin.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

Just got my Sabertooth up and running,

Looks amazing but different bios to the x58 chip-set I have been using.

Do we have a overclocking guide with bios template for this board.

I'm looking to overclock my 3570k I have read many posts, But I don't see any pics of bios with settings changed.

Can someone point me in the right direction please.

Pics coming soon.....


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Just got my Sabertooth up and running,
> Looks amazing but different bios to the x58 chip-set I have been using.
> Do we have a overclocking guide with bios template for this board.
> I'm looking to overclock my 3570k I have read many posts, But I don't see any pics of bios with settings changed.
> Can someone point me in the right direction please.
> Pics coming soon.....


http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1210. Post 1218. Others have posted pics of their overclocked settings in this thread can't remember where though.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1210. Post 1218. Others have posted pics of their overclocked settings in this thread can't remember where though.


Thanks mate,

Looks like that bios setup is for a 3770k gives me a bit of an idea.

Cheers for that,


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitestsand*
> 
> Hello All!! Last week a lighting storm took out my ASRock Z68 Ex4 Gen3........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time I was bummed, but it turned out to be a blessing!!!! My CPU and PSU survived so I checked out the ol NewEgg and found an open box Asus Z77 Sabertooth (not being to rich) I jumped on the open box deal. Before it came I read about half of this forum.
> Before I bought the ASRock I was going back and forth between that and an ASUS board. I thought I would take a chance with the ASRock,,,WRONG..... This SaberT rocks
> I have it up and running, instead of using the ssd as a cache I installed my OS on it and it is a great improvement. Now that I have said HI i do have a question (first of maybe a few)...
> I installed AI Suite II. There is no icon to start it. It does not show up in start under asus installed programs,,,,, Neither does it show up in control panel / programs..... But it is in the Programs Files 86x folder on Local disk, where there is no uninstall or app to start AI suite II.......I have tried to install it a few times (New version from asus) but have not been able to uninstall it first....
> Help... How do I uninstall it, to reinstall it??? I just dont want to delete it from the programs file do I?? Revo uninstaller wont find it.
> Forgive me if has been covered in this forum before..


try using RevoUninstaller or CCleaners uninstal option. Revo will uninstal down to the registry and delete any left over files. then try reinstalling it. to be honest..I found AIsuite to be a bit useless and almost malwareish. But if you want to instal it go with the Asus maximus's AISuite.....Doh neglected to read whole post, you treid REVo, nvm...
Are you installing each program individually or using the instal suite and choosing through that. i found installing individually tends to do what you are mentioning.

Hurtn If you check my pictures in my profile I'll have bios settings for a 4.5 OC for a 3570k

Samurai i agree with Bob, go with the "k" edition cpu. I do belive 4.5 oc on that cpu is the same as a 4.3 on the 3570k..easy easy easy. I do belive your cooler can handle it. As long as your temps stay in the 70c-55c area you are golden


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Hurtn If you check my pictures in my profile I'll have bios settings for a 4.5 OC for a 3570k


Thanks for that I took a look at your pics,
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1340

Post 1341 had exactly what I was searching for will give this a whirl.


----------



## Juggler

Hi everyone i have this Mobo for about a week now and after adding some fans i came to the conclusion that the case fan 4 conection on the mobo doesnt work.
Has anyone else had any problems like this or sugestions on how to fix i have tried diferent fans and they all work on other conectors.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Haha, saw this right after I just posted, sorry for the double post.
> It is definitely NOT snowing here.
> I am loading the CPU by running Diablo III and MW3 at the same time, using the onboard Intel 4000 GPU. If that's not load I don't know what is...
> Highest temp I got was 42C. Now this is an AC room ~70F. I have a ton of fans and a push/pull liquid cooling. Did I just get lucky with this chip?
> Also, I assume Ai Suite pulls the CPU temp of the MB sensor just like any other CPU temp monitor would.....why would it be wrong? If it is indeed inaccurate, the my benchmarks have been **** and I could get into to trouble...I will look into this further.


Yeah, if you are measuring with the AIsuite temp sensor... then i never hit above 40 degrees running 4.5 at 1.3 volts lol. Don't trust it as I mentioned before.

I have 6 120mm fans in my case, 3 intake and 3 exhaust along with the h100. My temps aren't bad when considering a 4.5 clock with ivy. The thing that differs from some of you guys is that I need 1.31 volts in order to keep it stable, which I really don't like...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Morning!
> Last night I downloaded 3D Mark and Real Temp. Ran a 3D Mark Test with Real Temp open in the background. The max core temp I got a 4.3GHz was 57C, the average was around 50c.
> I think tonight I will bump the voltage up a tiny bit and see if I can get to 4.6GHz.
> I am going to get a hold of IBT and OCCT and check them out. Seems like 3D Mark is pretty limited with the demo license. Your certainly right though, *I didn't build the rig to get good benchmark scores, I built it to kick butt at MW3 and Diablo III* so there is no better test than playing a game for a few hours. Thanks for the good advice.
> BTW side question, I have 32GB of 1600MHz DDR3 (Corsair Vengeance), is it worth overclocking?


No, 32g of ram is overkill as it is for the purpose of your build lol, but I don't think your frequency is going to make too much of a diff with your games. What are your graphics?? edit: BTW, reason being is D3 you can pretty much play on a 200$ computer, and although I don't play MW3 on PC, I have heard from friends that it is not too demanding performance-wise compared to something like BF3. -- refer to hurtin4asquirtin's post below--
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Thanks I would be happy with 4.6, I have water cooling so hopefully temperatures wont be an issue.
> Just discovered that there is no performance boost from 1600mhz ram to 2400mhz ram, I read it is like 1% increase.


I would be happy with 4.6 too! haha, and depending on what your using your setup for, 1600 is standard without noticeable performance difference for everyday stuff and gaming that isnt super hardcore IMHO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfie84*
> 
> Was wondering if i need a fan controller with this board, or if the "fan expert" is good enough. gonna have 7 fans in an Antec 1100.


Matter of preference. The fan expert works fine for me, because my cpu fans run through my h100 so it has the built in controller. My other fans are always silent in my padded case so I can't hear them anyway, therefore I really don't notice the revolution speeds so long as they are appropriate for the situation.


----------



## whitestsand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitestsand*
> 
> Hello All!! Last week a lighting storm took out my ASRock Z68 Ex4 Gen3........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time I was bummed, but it turned out to be a blessing!!!! My CPU and PSU survived so I checked out the ol NewEgg and found an open box Asus Z77 Sabertooth (not being to rich) I jumped on the open box deal. Before it came I read about half of this forum.
> Before I bought the ASRock I was going back and forth between that and an ASUS board. I thought I would take a chance with the ASRock,,,WRONG..... This SaberT rocks
> I have it up and running, instead of using the ssd as a cache I installed my OS on it and it is a great improvement. Now that I have said HI i do have a question (first of maybe a few)...
> I installed AI Suite II. There is no icon to start it. It does not show up in start under asus installed programs,,,,, Neither does it show up in control panel / programs..... But it is in the Programs Files 86x folder on Local disk, where there is no uninstall or app to start AI suite II.......I have tried to install it a few times (New version from asus) but have not been able to uninstall it first....
> Help... How do I uninstall it, to reinstall it??? I just dont want to delete it from the programs file do I?? Revo uninstaller wont find it.
> Forgive me if has been covered in this forum before..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> try using RevoUninstaller or CCleaners uninstal option. Revo will uninstal down to the registry and delete any left over files. then try reinstalling it. to be honest..I found AIsuite to be a bit useless and almost malwareish. But if you want to instal it go with the Asus maximus's AISuite.....Doh neglected to read whole post, you treid REVo, nvm...
> Are you installing each program individually or using the instal suite and choosing through that. i found installing individually tends to do what you are mentioning.


Thanks Blatsz you are right... when I first installed them I did it individually then I used the installer....

Does anyone know the correct way to get these files off my computer with NO uninstaller!!!

Should I just just erase them from my programs file?? Im not sure how to get the rest of it out of the Reg...


----------



## Bobmitch

New bios 1304 released today!

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20120713155747649&board_id=1&model=SABERTOOTH+Z77&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## iARDAs

I lost my USB flash disk drive. There is no other way to update the bios with a USB flash disk right?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I lost my USB flash disk drive. There is no other way to update the bios with a USB flash disk right?


You can update from the file in Window using AI Suite Asus Update.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I lost my USB flash disk drive. There is no other way to update the bios with a USB flash disk right?


You can also flash from within the Bios, itself. Copy the file to your C drive. Rename it Z77ST.rom and in bios go to utilities...and flash from there. Reminder...set the bios to defaults, before you flash...minimizing the potential for errors, etc.


----------



## kaspergw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> You can also flash from within the Bios, itself. Copy the file to your C drive. Rename it Z77ST.rom and in bios go to utilities...and flash from there. Reminder...set the bios to defaults, before you flash...minimizing the potential for errors, etc.


does it read from files if you HDD is NTFS?


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaspergw*
> 
> does it read from files if you HDD is NTFS?


Absolutely! I put mine in my Temp directory. When I flashed...from bios...read it from there...clicked update...and that was it...


----------



## Saurk66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whitestsand*
> 
> Hello All!! Last week a lighting storm took out my ASRock Z68 Ex4 Gen3........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time I was bummed, but it turned out to be a blessing!!!! My CPU and PSU survived so I checked out the ol NewEgg and found an open box Asus Z77 Sabertooth (not being to rich) I jumped on the open box deal. Before it came I read about half of this forum.
> Before I bought the ASRock I was going back and forth between that and an ASUS board. I thought I would take a chance with the ASRock,,,WRONG..... This SaberT rocks
> I have it up and running, instead of using the ssd as a cache I installed my OS on it and it is a great improvement. Now that I have said HI i do have a question (first of maybe a few)...
> I installed AI Suite II. There is no icon to start it. It does not show up in start under asus installed programs,,,,, Neither does it show up in control panel / programs..... But it is in the Programs Files 86x folder on Local disk, where there is no uninstall or app to start AI suite II.......I have tried to install it a few times (New version from asus) but have not been able to uninstall it first....
> Help... How do I uninstall it, to reinstall it??? I just dont want to delete it from the programs file do I?? Revo uninstaller wont find it.
> Forgive me if has been covered in this forum before..


Is it running in your sys tray? AI Suite is buggy, I had several issues but nothing like what you describe.


----------



## Bobmitch

Been reading on what I could find for 1304 bios. According to another board, it is mainly for Fan issues that some people are having. I have not had fan issues, so not sure what it addresses...


----------



## whitestsand

No it is not in the system tray...


----------



## cmeabon

Does anyone have a solid guide for a minor overclock on i2500k in the Sabertooth board?

I have attempted from 4.1 - 4.5 ghz. I have set to 42 right now and made it through a 12 hour prime 95 tests. Problem is after I thought everything was stable I got BSOD while playing a game for about 20 minutes. Just would like to see some BIOS setting for a solid 4.3 - 4.5 setup.

Thank you


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *machiavelli1986*
> 
> I have the same problem like lzepplin01, its driving me crazy. Turbo Ratio and some settings are missing. Internal GPU Settings are missing. Instead of 16gb ram I have only 8gb (but cpu-z is showing 16gb and asus spd information in bios too.) Furthermore my cpu (3570k) only goes to 3610mhz under prime95, really strange. Asus support is for nuts. the only idea they send me was that i should connect the 8pin cpu power, not the 4pin (of course i connected with a 8pin). i also wrote that i did a cmos reset, and the only thing they told me was that i should do a cmos reset. really funny. i also checked the ram slots.A1 and B1 works together as A2 and B2 does too. so if i use them seperatly with only 2x4gb it works, so the slots are fine. but over 1333 and 8gb is not possible. i have some corsair vengeance 4x4gb 1866. i thinks the only thing i can do is going for rma too. i have no other idea.


Sorry to hear that mate, I'm unaware of a solution besides RMA.
Try the new BIOS (1304) and see if that changes it.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=8&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmeabon*
> 
> Does anyone have a solid guide for a minor overclock on i2500k in the Sabertooth board?
> I have attempted from 4.1 - 4.5 ghz. I have set to 42 right now and made it through a 12 hour prime 95 tests. Problem is after I thought everything was stable I got BSOD while playing a game for about 20 minutes. Just would like to see some BIOS setting for a solid 4.3 - 4.5 setup.
> Thank you


This might help you
http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


----------



## lzepplin01

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821

Saber on sale for $215 on newegg! Free 1 year newegg warrantee.


----------



## machiavelli1986

@lzepplin01

I tried the new bios yesterday, no change. i go for rma today. you already got your board back?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

Have managed a solid overclock but had some very strange problems,

When I plugged in my front USB 3 header it went haywire BSOD a few times and is not reading anything i plug onto it.

It detects that there is a USB Stick plugged in but I cant format or drag any files.

Anyone help with this please.


----------



## Tau86

Hey guys need your help. I'm trying to connect my case fans to the motherboard but struggling to identify which connectors I should be plugging them into on the Asus Sabertooth z77 Socket 1155.

My case unit is the "Corsair Carbide 500R mid tower" which has a fan at the back (3-pin) and the two fans at the front (4-pin) and one big fan on one of the side panels is also(3-pin).
Diagram of fans provided here: http://www.corsair.com/media/cms/manual/49-000049_revAB_500R_QSG.pdf

Options on the Motherboard are;

*CHA_FAN1
CHA_FAN2
CHA_FAN3
CHA_FAN4
CPU_FAN*

Any particular fan go into the CPU_FAN connector? or do I just put them all in the CHA_FAN 1-4 connectors?

I've used the *ASST_FAN1* and *ASST_FAN2* for the mini fans provided with the motherboard.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tau86*
> 
> Hey guys need your help. I'm trying to connect my case fans to the motherboard but struggling to identify which connectors I should be plugging them into on the Asus Sabertooth z77 Socket 1155.
> My case unit is the "Corsair Carbide 500R mid tower" which has a fan at the back (3-pin) and the two fans at the front (4-pin) and one big fan on one of the side panels is also(3-pin).
> Diagram of fans provided here: http://www.corsair.com/media/cms/manual/49-000049_revAB_500R_QSG.pdf
> Options on the Motherboard are;
> *CHA_FAN1
> CHA_FAN2
> CHA_FAN3
> CHA_FAN4
> CPU_FAN*
> Any particular fan go into the CPU_FAN connector? or do I just put them all in the CHA_FAN 1-4 connectors?
> I've used the *ASST_FAN1* and *ASST_FAN2* for the mini fans provided with the motherboard.


I use the 500 Carbide and used the fan control built into the case for the fans so that you can use the hi/med/lo fan switch on the front.


----------



## Tau86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> I use the 500 Carbide and used the fan control built into the case for the fans so that you can use the hi/med/lo fan switch on the front.


If I also decide to do that, does this mean the Carbide fans slot into the 3-pin connectors I currently have my mini fans plugged into at the moment that come with the z77?


----------



## Blatsz32

Hurtin, the Intel 3.0 drivers are a bit wonky when you install em at start up. It would be best to go to the Intel site and dl them off the site. I'm thinking that you have a driver issue.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Thanks Blataz,

Tried updating the drivers but didn't help.

The Bitfenix devise I'm trying to use has 2 twenty pin conetors but the board only has 1.

I was hoping one 20 pin connector would power 2 ports that looks like how it works.

Going to by another single 20 pin conetor tomorrow and I'd that does not work I'm RMA the board.


----------



## lzepplin01

No, but they've finished repairing it and it's on it's way back. Took about two weeks including the 4th of July and a few weekends (they dont work on holidays or weekends). Do you still have te warranty from the place you bought it? Asus needs to address and investigate this problem, so many people have the issue.
Best of luck


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tau86*
> 
> If I also decide to do that, does this mean the Carbide fans slot into the 3-pin connectors I currently have my mini fans plugged into at the moment that come with the z77?


No the fan controller is a molex connection that wont connect to the mobo at all.


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guy i just build my pc

And did my frist overclock to 4.5

system

i5-3570k
z77 sabertooth
corsair low profile memory 1600 2x8 16gb
h100 cooler
ax 850 psu

no video card yet just onboard

i ran prime95 for 30 min



any of you pros have any tips


----------



## Zantrill

I have basicly same setup. Only dif is I have 4 x 4 mem instead of 2x8. And 860W PSU. All else is same. Still have problem with getting over 4.1. Can you post what you changed in bios?


----------



## Samurai707

is BIOS 1304 pretty solid?


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> I have basicly same setup. Only dif is I have 4 x 4 mem instead of 2x8. And 860W PSU. All else is same. Still have problem with getting over 4.1. Can you post what you changed in bios?


hi it billy was this post for me ?

if so i did not change any thing all i did was set my memory and put the cores to 45 and the cpu volt to 1.2
i did not change any thing els.

it my frist time overclocking with the sabertooth

but i do think my load temps a high but it like realy hot + 30c out side hoter in the house


----------



## jcho285

I'm installing a new system with sabertooth z77/3770k.
Everything is fine until I install nvidia drivers, latest or 301.10.
It crashes after windows splash and hangs.

Video card is gtx 680 and that's not the issue because I'm trying 2 different cards.
Anyone know what the cause might be?

Everything loaded in defualt in the newest bios will crash also.

So far I changed this with another board and it seems to have the same problem.
Thought it was faulty 3770k so I tried with my p68 board and it works fine.

Pcie slot is set to gen2.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I'm installing a new system with sabertooth z77/3770k.
> Everything is fine until I install nvidia drivers, latest or 301.10.
> It crashes after windows splash and hangs.
> Video card is gtx 680 and that's not the issue because I'm trying 2 different cards.
> Anyone know what the cause might be?
> Everything loaded in defualt in the newest bios will crash also.
> So far I changed this with another board and it seems to have the same problem.
> Thought it was faulty 3770k so I tried with my p68 board and it works fine.
> Pcie slot is set to gen2.


Not sure if it matters, shouldn't, but the 680 is Gen3.


----------



## jcho285

Tried aut, gen3, and gen2. No luck on any of those.


----------



## Tiktok79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> is BIOS 1304 pretty solid?


I flashed my bios yesterday and no issues as of now; havent noticed anything different either...performance wise.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Tried aut, gen3, and gen2. No luck on any of those.


Will it boot without the video card?


----------



## jcho285

Boots up perfectly without the video card...

Tried 2nd slot, seems to be working more stable now. Only been 5 mins...


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> Boots up perfectly without the video card...
> Tried 2nd slot, seems to be working more stable now. Only been 5 mins...


I'd look into RMAing that puppy if your first x16 slot isn't working...


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> is BIOS 1304 pretty solid?


Flashed mine, too! Seems without incident. Can't really tell what is different...I read on other boards that the main fix in this bios of for fan control. Never had issues there, either. Seems fine...

I only have a GTX580, but with every bios, I see PCIe16x2...so it seems fine there...

Capture.JPG 66k .JPG file


----------



## billythekid2012

hi guys i installed the ai suite 2 but i can see the Fan Xpert 2 app

do i have to down load it from asus


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> hi guys i installed the ai suite 2 but i can see the Fan Xpert 2 app
> do i have to down load it from asus


Fan expert doesn't come with AI for Sabertooth, you can d/l from one of the other mobos on the Asus site, but I just use the fan controls in Thermal Radar.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I'm installing a new system with sabertooth z77/3770k.
> Everything is fine until I install nvidia drivers, latest or 301.10.
> It crashes after windows splash and hangs.
> Video card is gtx 680 and that's not the issue because I'm trying 2 different cards.
> Anyone know what the cause might be?
> Everything loaded in defualt in the newest bios will crash also.
> So far I changed this with another board and it seems to have the same problem.
> Thought it was faulty 3770k so I tried with my p68 board and it works fine.
> Pcie slot is set to gen2.


ya been having issues with the drivers from Nvida as well..I'm assuming its the drivers. i'll get random crashes. It all points to a GPU issue. then again it could be that my watercooling loop sprung a leak a few days ago and something got messed up. But thats doubtful..a good drying and I was up and running. I think its the drivers.


----------



## FishCommander

I see some people using and wanting to use ASUS fan xpert 2. I've been using thermal radar to control my top and front fans. Does FE2 offer any advantages over the thermal radar software?

also just WC'd my sabertooth build


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> I see some people using and wanting to use ASUS fan xpert 2. I've been using thermal radar to control my top and front fans. Does FE2 offer any advantages over the thermal radar software?
> also just WC'd my sabertooth build


I just unistalled my assist fans altogether, They never seem to work at the set speeds after a reboot.

I have tried both Xpert Fan 2 and Radar Ai Suit is buggy as hell and my front usb 3 port is not working correctly.

About to explode ( And not in a good way )


----------



## Lolindirfab

Hi guys.

I need some help here.

My rig:

i7 3770k
Sabertooth Z77
Corsair Vengeance 8gb x2 1600mhz 1.35v This ones
Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W.
Corsair H80.

What I need, is some help with the OC.

I've never overclocked a cpu.

Can anyone please post some pics of the Bios Settings? 4.4ghz/4.5ghz would be great.

Thanks a lot!

I'm sorry about asking this, But this is my first time.

Regards!!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Overclocking is easy on this board,

Currently stable on the newest bios with 4.5 on the 3570k, Here are some pics of the bios menu.

All you have to do is plug in a usb, go into the bios and F12 will screenshot your bios right onto the usb stick ( Brilliant )

Go into your bios and advanced mode,









For those who have a water cooling set up with no CPU fan set to ignore.


----------



## user2012

hey guys I have a quick question: does anyone know if this board can charge the new iPad by USB, without using any special software -- that is, when you plug it in, does the iPad charge normally or does it say "not charging"? The iPad needs more power than other USB devices and my current board can't charge it. Thanks!


----------



## Lolindirfab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Overclocking is easy on this board,
> Currently stable on the newest bios with 4.5 on the 3570k, Here are some pics of the bios menu.
> All you have to do is plug in a usb, go into the bios and F12 will screenshot your bios right onto the usb stick ( Brilliant )
> Go into your bios and advanced mode,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those who have a water cooling set up with no CPU fan set to ignore.


Woow! Thank you SO SO much!

You made my day


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Woow! Thank you SO SO much!
> You made my day


Make sure you run some stability tests and keep an eye on your temps.


----------



## Tiktok79

Hurtn4ASquirtn or anybody,

Why bump the "CPU Current Capability" to 140%? What does this option do for overclocking?


----------



## migastar

add me to the club! I love this board!


----------



## Willhemmens

^That looks awesome!

Here's my mess:

























Only using one GTX680 currently for power saving reasons.

Not much of a fan on the Thermal shield and it doesn't fit with my new larger Mayhems radiator.

Both fans are attached to the Mosfet heatsink instead for much better cooling and the over heatsink will be cooled too because of the heatpipe.

That Antec fan is only temporary too.

Going to be removing my IHS and replacing with Coollaboratory liquid ultra tomorrow.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiktok79*
> 
> Why bump the "CPU Current Capability" to 140%? What does this option do for overclocking?


It is not necessary but it may help with your OCing.
Quote:


> CPU Current Capability can be set to 140% to override the level of over current protection of the CPU, allowing the CPU to drain more current from the CPU PWM, delivering more margins for the CPU to clock just a little higher.


source


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user2012*
> 
> hey guys I have a quick question: does anyone know if this board can charge the new iPad by USB, without using any special software -- that is, when you plug it in, does the iPad charge normally or does it say "not charging"? The iPad needs more power than other USB devices and my current board can't charge it. Thanks!


There is a usb charger port..dont own an ipad so not sure


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user2012*
> 
> hey guys I have a quick question: does anyone know if this board can charge the new iPad by USB, without using any special software -- that is, when you plug it in, does the iPad charge normally or does it say "not charging"? The iPad needs more power than other USB devices and my current board can't charge it. Thanks!


Yes it can, you enable USB Charger+ in the AI Suite.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcho285*
> 
> I'm installing a new system with sabertooth z77/3770k.
> Everything is fine until I install nvidia drivers, latest or 301.10.
> It crashes after windows splash and hangs.
> Video card is gtx 680 and that's not the issue because I'm trying 2 different cards.
> Anyone know what the cause might be?
> Everything loaded in defualt in the newest bios will crash also.
> So far I changed this with another board and it seems to have the same problem.
> Thought it was faulty 3770k so I tried with my p68 board and it works fine.
> Pcie slot is set to gen2.


Someone on another board had issues with THREE 680's. Found that the PCIe controller in the CPU went bad. Once he had his 3770K replaced with a new one...crashes stopped! You might want to look into this. Here is the thread...

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1673640


----------



## lawlbringer

Hey guys, just setup a new PC with this board and need some help.

It seems every time I restart my PC, my USB devices seem to act up. For example, my Razer Naga mouse will work, but I will not be able to open the software to configure it. Once I unplug the mouse, it gives me the "no razer naga mouse detected" message while also finally opening the software. Once I unplug and replug the mouse like this, the software will open up again just fine. However, the problem comes back when I reboot. It happens with all 4 USB 2.0 ports at the top of the board.

The other thing that's odd too is, if I switch the power supply ON after it's been off for a bit, my Leopold mechanical keyboard lights all come on...Caps Lock/Num Lock/etc. even though the PC is off. Once I boot the PC and shut down normally, it stops. I can replicate the issue by either unplugging the power supply from the wall or turning off the switch for a minute.

I've already tried disabling USB power saving features in Windows, and have it all set to high performance. Is there anything in the UEFI that addresses USB power saving or charging? It seems like the device is working(my mouse) but the software doesn't detect it and is locked up until I replug it. I've tried older versions of Razer Naga drivers and the new synapse software with the same result. I hope my board doesn't have faulty USB ports, since everything else has been 100% great. I'm running the latest UEFI/BIOS revision.

PS - The same mouse and keyboard never had any issues with my old board(ASUS P8P67 + i7 2600.)


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> Hey guys, just setup a new PC with this board and need some help.
> It seems every time I restart my PC, my USB devices seem to act up. For example, my Razer Naga mouse will work, but I will not be able to open the software to configure it. Once I unplug the mouse, it gives me the "no razer naga mouse detected" message while also finally opening the software. Once I unplug and replug the mouse like this, the software will open up again just fine. However, the problem comes back when I reboot. It happens with all 4 USB 2.0 ports at the top of the board.
> The other thing that's odd too is, if I switch the power supply ON after it's been off for a bit, my Leopold mechanical keyboard lights all come on...Caps Lock/Num Lock/etc. even though the PC is off. Once I boot the PC and shut down normally, it stops. I can replicate the issue by either unplugging the power supply from the wall or turning off the switch for a minute.
> I've already tried disabling USB power saving features in Windows, and have it all set to high performance. Is there anything in the UEFI that addresses USB power saving or charging? It seems like the device is working(my mouse) but the software doesn't detect it and is locked up until I replug it. I've tried older versions of Razer Naga drivers and the new synapse software with the same result. I hope my board doesn't have faulty USB ports, since everything else has been 100% great. I'm running the latest UEFI/BIOS revision.
> PS - The same mouse and keyboard never had any issues with my old board(ASUS P8P67 + i7 2600.)


Only thing I would check is that all your USB can run in legacy mode in bios. I have a Thermaltake Black Element mouse and Thermaltake Challenger Ultimate keyboard. Had some issues, initially, with the keyboard, where it would lock up the QWERTY keys after I opened AI suite, but not since bios 1206. Supposedly that bios addressed USB issues. What bios are you running?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Is anyone going to share there overclock bios settings,

Im sure some are getting differnt prefomance results from different settings.
Quote:


> I Showed You Mine


Quote:


> I Want To See Your's


----------



## Willhemmens

When my Coollaboratories liquid ultra arrives which should have been today but I guess tomorrow now, I'll post my results with UEFI Screenshots.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> When my Coollaboratories liquid ultra arrives which should have been today but I guess tomorrow now, I'll post my results with UEFI Screenshots.


Sounds great nice looking rig you have there.

We can also save our profile settings to a flash drive and share them. ( For those to lazy to do it the hard way )

Unfortanately this forum does not allow that file type to be uploaded


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> It seems every time I restart my PC, my USB devices seem to act up.


Damn. My steelseries diablo III mouse is acting up too and I was convinced it was the mouse's fault.
Now you got me thinking.
Sometimes after a reboot it wont even get detected by windows and I have to unplug/replug for it to work.
Some other times after shutting down the pc, the leds will stay on.
In UEFI it will just move sideways and not upside down.

I'm on the 1015 bios, but I 'm afraid of updating after reading all the reports for missing options after bios updates in this thread.
If you go through with it , let us konw how it went.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Is anyone going to share there overclock bios settings,


Surprisingly enough, mine are exactly set as yours, except for PLL voltage which I've lowered to 1.65v-1.7v with no difference temp-wise whatsoever.
Results in cpuz are 0.960v idle and 1.200v under linx.


----------



## Chillie

So I have a question about the sata ports on the mobo itself. I understand they are labeled by color. I am currently using the white sata ports for my HDD. and the one of the black ones for my optical drive. My question is does it matter what type of device goes where in terms of HDD vs. CD/DVD roms go? This could be a ridiculous question I know but the manual was a tad unclear to me. I just want to make sure im taking advantage of all the possible features per slot.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> So I have a question about the sata ports on the mobo itself. I understand they are labeled by color. I am currently using the white sata ports for my HDD. and the one of the black ones for my optical drive. My question is does it matter what type of device goes where in terms of HDD vs. CD/DVD roms go? This could be a ridiculous question I know but the manual was a tad unclear to me. I just want to make sure im taking advantage of all the possible features per slot.


The white ports are your Asmedia SATA III ports. I would move the HDD to the Intel SATA III ports just above the black ones. SATA 0 and SATA 1 are just below the USB 3.0 header. Intel SATA III ports will give you the best performance, bar none! Make sure to get the Intel AHCI drivers from here as well:

http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&ProdId=3444&DwnldID=21407&ProductFamily=Desktop+Boards&ProductLine=Intel%c2%ae+7+Series+Chipset+Boards&ProductProduct=Intel%c2%ae+Desktop+Board+DQ77KB&lang=eng

The F6 are for during install of Win 7. This way AHCI is properly running from the onset...


----------



## Chillie

Ok so that does answer most of my questions!! but since i used the white ports to install windows 7 should re-install them using the ports you recommended? Last question is would it matter where the CD/DVD roms go?


----------



## javaneze

Nope the dvd can be pluged anywhere.
You should not need to reinstall either.

Just re-plug, reboot, enter bios, choose boot device and all is well.
You could also disable the asmedia controller if you are not using more than 6 optical/ssd drives.


----------



## LibNate

I've joined the Sabertooth club as well. Just waiting on a my GPU and CPU to arrive to complete my build.

I'm starting to rethink my decision on the CPU though... Ordered a 3570K, but I'm thinking I would probably benefit from the extra threads the 3770K provides. I know they won't help in the gaming department, but I do a lot of video transcoding, programming and VM work. Knowing what I plan on using the rig for, do you guys think it's worth the extra cash for the 3770K vs 3570K?

Rig parts list:

Asus Sabertooth Z77
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 (2x8GB)
Corsair H100
Corsair HX850
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC Windforce
2 x 128 GB Samsung 830 Series SSD
2 TB WD Green Drive
LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Optical drive

I plan on picking up a 2nd GTX 670 for SLI down the road.


----------



## Chillie

Great thank you for your help dude!!!


----------



## Chillie

Im currently running a 3570k. I picked mine up for an outstanding price! that being said im very happy with mine however ill admit it runs on the hotter side temp wise. So if you do any sorta of over clocking be sure to check your temps a lot! or upgrade the cpu cooler! I use my rig primarily for gaming so I have had no issues with processing power.


----------



## iARDAs

So i5 3570k with Asus Sabertooth Z77

OCed at 4.0

on BF3 runs at 71 degrees with a H80 cooler but with Noctua Fans.

Do you guys think everything is ok?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LibNate*
> 
> I've joined the Sabertooth club as well. Just waiting on a my GPU and CPU to arrive to complete my build.
> I'm starting to rethink my decision on the CPU though... Ordered a 3570K, but I'm thinking I would probably benefit from the extra threads the 3770K provides. I know they won't help in the gaming department, but I do a lot of video transcoding, programming and VM work. Knowing what I plan on using the rig for, do you guys think it's worth the extra cash for the 3770K vs 3570K?
> Rig parts list:
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 (2x8GB)
> Corsair H100
> Corsair HX850
> Gigabyte GTX 670 OC Windforce
> 2 x 128 GB Samsung 830 Series SSD
> 2 TB WD Green Drive
> LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Optical drive
> I plan on picking up a 2nd GTX 670 for SLI down the road.


Why not spend a alittle more and get the 3770k. A purchase like that you won't regret in the least..that being said a lot of guys are happy with the 3570k. I was in the debate as you and went with the 3770k and happy I did. Good luck with the choice and if money is not an issue my vote is 3770k.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So i5 3570k with Asus Sabertooth Z77
> OCed at 4.0
> on BF3 runs at 71 degrees with a H80 cooler but with Noctua Fans.
> 
> Do you guys think everything is ok?


Those temps are safe, but Im running @ 4.2 with only the H60 and hit 53C on the high end. Ambient temps could be a factor, my room is about 72F (22C).


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Those temps are safe, but Im running @ 4.2 with only the H60 and hit 53C on the high end. Ambient temps could be a factor, my room is about 72F (22C).


Hey thanks for the answers bro. I just lowered my voltages a bit and see what happens.

My ambient temp is high. The weather was almost 40 degrees here today and my room does not have air conditioning and gets direct sunlight.


----------



## Bobmitch

OK...question about CPU coolers. I am clocking my 3770K at 4.0 GHZ and it's running sweet! Using the stock Intel cooler and system in the Thermaltake Overseer RX-1 case. I am used to the Antec 900, which has four fans blowing at major speeds. The RX-1 has huge fans in front (200 x 200 x 30) and on top...at 600 rpm each. The front fan is intake, the top and rear 25mm fan are exhaust. I ran Intel Burn test to see what temps were. Used Realtemp to monitor the CPU. After 10 runs...maximum temps for core1-4 86-91-92-91

Within safety, but I would like to lower that a bit. My misgiving is that when I built the system, I purchased this memory (which is excellent, btw)...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233248

Here is my case:

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1470&ID=2068

As you can see...the memory profiles pretty high, so it is going to interfere with the CPU cooler, unless I can get a proper one.

Any thoughts?

If I kept the standard Intel cooler and repasted with Artic Silver 5, do you think it would improve things?

Thanks


----------



## iARDAs

If i were you i would dump the standar cooler and get a Corsair H80.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> If i were you i would dump the standar cooler and get a Corsair H80.


Wanted to keep air cooling. I am very uneasy with water cooling. My phobia, I guess...


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Wanted to keep air cooling. I am very uneasy with water cooling. My phobia, I guess...


Trust me my friend. I was excatly like you. I said to myself i would never go with water cooling and last week I did and I am extremly happy.

Just think about it 

Other than that Zalman CNPS11X fits our motherboard as well but only in the direction where fan is facing up.

It can not be installed sideways because of the thermal armor.


----------



## Jim Pomerville

The Sabertooth bios was updated Friday to version 1304 , Not sure if that's been posted ( i checked real quick didnt see it ) .... So far everything seems fine ,,,

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77#download


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Trust me my friend. I was excatly like you. I said to myself i would never go with water cooling and last week I did and I am extremly happy.
> 
> Just think about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other than that Zalman CNPS11X fits our motherboard as well but only in the direction where fan is facing up.
> It can not be installed sideways because of the thermal armor.


I will look into it..Also...this came highly recommended by the Asus Sabertooth board:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118054

They say it clears Ripjaws...don't know why it wouldn't handle Vengeance.

Thoughts?


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> The Sabertooth bios was updated Friday to version 1304 , Not sure if that's been posted ( i checked real quick didnt see it ) .... So far everything seems fine ,,,
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77#download


A number of us flashed it last week...doesn't seem to cause any issues. From what I read on a few other boards, the main change has to do with fan controllers...


----------



## LibNate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Why not spend a alittle more and get the 3770k. A purchase like that you won't regret in the least..that being said a lot of guys are happy with the 3570k. I was in the debate as you and went with the 3770k and happy I did. Good luck with the choice and if money is not an issue my vote is 3770k.


I don't think I'd regret either choice really, but I do have to consider the balance between price and performance. That being said, I've made the decision to go with the 3770K. Thanks for the nudge.


----------



## PA99

Couple of pics at the end of day one under water. It's been an experience









Those assist fans have to come out, horrible noise. Disconnected at the moment.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LibNate*
> 
> I don't think I'd regret either choice really, but I do have to consider the balance between price and performance. That being said, I've made the decision to go with the 3770K. Thanks for the nudge.


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Whats the highest 24-7 overclock on this board so far using a 3770k on water. Temps aside im looking to see if this board is aimed at high end overclocking as the guys build will be water cooled with one of those massive 9x120mm rads. So like I said temps for the most part wont be an issue just need to see if this board can supply enough clean power. Gonna change out the internal TIM as well as put good stuff on the outside and lap it and the waterblock as well.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Whats the highest 24-7 overclock on this board so far using a 3770k on water. Temps aside im looking to see if this board is aimed at high end overclocking as the guys build will be water cooled with one of those massive 9x120mm rads. So like I said temps for the most part wont be an issue just need to see if this board can supply enough clean power. Gonna change out the internal TIM as well as put good stuff on the outside and lap it and the waterblock as well.


I saw a guy at 4.9 but can't rember if it was 24/7. I also see a lot of 4.6 stable that is 24/7. I would say in general this board performs well when oc on 3770k.


----------



## FishCommander

I'm @ 4.5 temps in mid 60c 's... Not stable yet though havent done a full 24hour prime run... working on it.


----------



## FishCommander

OC'd to 4.5 ran Prime for 12 hours, ran fine, but computer has frozen twice since the OC. I increased:

cpu offset voltage +.005

am I doing it right?


----------



## Blatsz32

Bob, those are some pretty high temps bud. When my Water Loop busted I slapped the stock cooler on and the temps I got were unbeliveablly high..same as yours. Now, if those temps( 90&91) were just peak temps and then settled to say 70-79 I'd say stick with your cooler but it's not safe to run thsoe temps your getting for a prolonged time. The TJmax of the CPU is 105..say your ambiants got higher you'd be looking at a couple degrees closer to the MAX. being that close would just scare me. The Hyper Evo 212 is a good air cooler. You'll prob lose almost 7-8c off your current temps with that.

Changing the Thermal Paste won't do you much good. When I used my stock cooler I first tried it with CoolJags Shin etsu then tried AS5..the Artic Silver5 performed better by 2c..thats not much in the grand scheme of things.

Bob, I honestly belive that if you plan on overclcoking your CPU I'd go with a diffent cooler. The closed watercooling loops are a great solution or if funds are a factor the hyper Evo 212..supposedly the 212 is one of the best heatsinks for the price.

Oh and I don't blame you on your WC phobia..one of my lines burst the other day..my rig hasn't been running the same since..I'm pretty bummed. Wondering if I should RMA


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> OC'd to 4.5 ran Prime for 12 hours, ran fine, but computer has frozen twice since the OC. I increased:
> cpu offset voltage +.005
> am I doing it right?


to low bud, try 0.050 not 0.005

if you need to bump it to 0.055


----------



## lilj

guys i am building my first PC right now and i dont know if i should plug the SATA cable into the ASmedia or intel controller thingy, they are both 6bg/s and i have a 6gb/s SSD


----------



## FishCommander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> to low bud, try 0.050 not 0.005
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you need to bump it to 0.055


Okay right now my cpu offset is 0.010. So basically I need to continue to bump it higher as long as there is crashes? also I am using XMP profile so my BCKL is 100


----------



## koxoxok

I set up my two SSD to raid and when I boot up, it has the "cltr-I" raid set up. is there any way to not let that appear so I can boot up faster?


----------



## iARDAs

In the Asus drivers page there is a

Intel USB 3.0 driver and

Asmedia USB 3.0 driver

How do i know which one is mine?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> In the Asus drivers page there is a
> 
> Intel USB 3.0 driver and
> Asmedia USB 3.0 driver
> 
> How do i know which one is mine?


Intel ones are for usb 3

Asmedia are for sata ( Data) Sata 3 ( 6gig )


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> In the Asus drivers page there is a
> 
> Intel USB 3.0 driver and
> Asmedia USB 3.0 driver
> 
> How do i know which one is mine?


asmedia is for sata i think, ivy bridge gave natural support for USB3.also good to know there are other turkish people


----------



## Willhemmens

So I'm going to be swapping the TIM over today, here's my stock TIM performance.

Overclock was 4.4GHz, 1.3v, High LLC. Here's my BIOS, the only difference is voltage is 1.3v.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/19156855/442.CMO

Here is the screenshot before the swap:


----------



## Piloten

Quick question: on the flash screen when I boot, hitting delete brings me to the Windows Boot Manager, not BIOS. What gives? I can't get into my BIOS. Any suggestions?


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I saw a guy at 4.9 but can't rember if it was 24/7. I also see a lot of 4.6 stable that is 24/7. I would say in general this board performs well when oc on 3770k.


Thank you and the fish commander for the replies. Its either this board or the asrock pro or extreme 9. The Pro has a much higher power phase count so I would think for overclocking it would be the better performer. Although its only speculation. Ill do some more research.


----------



## Jim Pomerville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> A number of us flashed it last week...doesn't seem to cause any issues. From what I read on a few other boards, the main change has to do with fan controllers...


Oh , ok cool ,,,Thank you for the info ! ,,,,


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Okay right now my cpu offset is 0.010. So basically I need to continue to bump it higher as long as there is crashes? also I am using XMP profile so my BCKL is 100


Im hoping this is how it works also, Im stable @ 4.4 with 0.005


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilj*
> 
> guys i am building my first PC right now and i dont know if i should plug the SATA cable into the ASmedia or intel controller thingy, they are both 6bg/s and i have a 6gb/s SSD


. Use the Intel controller. http://www.overclock.net/t/1258730/considering-sabertooth-z77-asmedia-port-concerns


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Intel ones are for usb 3
> Asmedia are for sata ( Data) Sata 3 ( 6gig )


Ah I see so i will install both of them in case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> asmedia is for sata i think, ivy bridge gave natural support for USB3.also good to know there are other turkish people


Yep. Good to know there are Turkish people I agree 

@ everyone

http://www.overclock.net/t/1230126/iardas-log-my-newest-setup/0_30

Feel free to comment on my setup. I believe the Sabertooth Z77 loks very pretty from outside as well. I will be taking even better pictures later.


----------



## Tisca

I bought a *Sabertooth* and looking for a *cooler*. Does anyone have a *Thermalright HR-02 Macho* on their Sabertooth with 4 sticks of mem? Is there enough clearence between the dimms and the HR02's fan to have high profile sticks?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> I bought a *Sabertooth* and looking for a *cooler*. Does anyone have a *Thermalright HR-02 Macho* on their Sabertooth with 4 sticks of mem? Is there enough clearence between the dimms and the HR02's fan to have high profile sticks?


http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/thermalright_hr02_macho_cpu_air_cooler_review/ good review to give you some idea


----------



## Chillie

I know if you have a CPU fan error you can press F1, which will take into the BIOS as well. hope this helps.


----------



## Chillie

Hey have a question about my 4.5ghz overclock. I ran prime95 stress test for 7 hours +. I had great temps nothing over 84c. My question is that is there a problem with running an overclocked 3570k @4.5 with all auto settings in the BIOS? or just auto settings in general as long as your system is running stable i would assume its ok. If not what should I be changing manually aside from the offset? I just want to do it correctly/the best way to get all the most performance I can out of the overclock.


----------



## koxoxok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> Quick question: on the flash screen when I boot, hitting delete brings me to the Windows Boot Manager, not BIOS. What gives? I can't get into my BIOS. Any suggestions?


When you get to boot manager, press F7 and go into advance settings or click the "exit/advance settings" button on the top right corner


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/thermalright_hr02_macho_cpu_air_cooler_review/ good review to give you some idea


Are you saying the cpu-ram space/layout is universal? I don't think so, especially not that triple channel x58 board. I'm only interested if it works on a Z77 sabertooth.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Are you saying the cpu-ram space/layout is universal? I don't think so, especially not that triple channel x58 board. I'm only interested if it works on a Z77 sabertooth.


simply pointed you toward a review. I'm not saying it will fit on the z77 dimm layout. Just giving you some info incase you hadn't seen that review.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> The weather was almost 40 degrees here today and my room does not have air conditioning and gets direct sunlight.


Same situation here mate, I idle at 45-50 and game at 60-70 C.
Perfectly normal, nothing to worry about.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> As you can see...the memory profiles pretty high, so it is going to interfere with the CPU cooler, unless I can get a proper one.
> Any thoughts?


You can probably get away with any cooler but only one fan on the opposite side of the ram slots.
Whether you use your case's back fan as an exhaust or intake will determine the fan's configuration as either pull or push.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> Those assist fans have to come out, horrible noise.


Looking good under water








Just install the thermal radar software and set custom profiles for the assist fans.
You'll never hear from them again









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> OC'd to 4.5 ran Prime for 12 hours, ran fine, but computer has frozen twice since the OC. I increased:cpu offset voltage +.005
> am I doing it right?


What is your LLC setting; What vcore are you getting in cpuz under idle/load?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Intel USB 3.0 driver and
> Asmedia USB 3.0 driver
> 
> How do i know which one is mine?


Both are yours








Intel ones are for 2 usb3s in the back and front usb3 connector.
Asmedia ones are for the other 2 usb3s in the back.

I personally left the asmedia controller disabled for less drivers to be involved in booting and windows setup.
Based on previous experience with third party controllers, I'd advise against installing them unless you really have the need for more than 6 sata - 2 usb3 devices.


----------



## Piloten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> Quick question: on the flash screen when I boot, hitting delete brings me to the Windows Boot Manager, not BIOS. What gives? I can't get into my BIOS. Any suggestions?


In response to several suggestions, F1 doesn't do anything and F7 doesn't do anything once at the boot manager. The boot screen I'm getting is the gray Asus one with the nice logo that says hit delete to enter the BIOS. I still can not get into my BIOS.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> In response to several suggestions, F1 doesn't do anything and F7 doesn't do anything once at the boot manager. The boot screen I'm getting is the gray Asus one with the nice logo that says hit delete to enter the BIOS. I still can not get into my BIOS.


. I was reading another forum and a lot of guys had same problem when updating to 1206 BIOS . Looked like some went and bought new usb keyboards to fix . Others revert back to earlier BIOS to solve by using flashbck.


----------



## Piloten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> . I was reading another forum and a lot of guys had same problem when updating to 1206 BIOS . Looked like some went and bought new usb keyboards to fix . Others revert back to earlier BIOS to solve by using flashbck.


I did flash 1206 the other day and that's when this started happening. I already have a USB keyboard, why would a new one help? I'll try flashing back, if I can figure out how the flashback button works.









Thank you!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> I did flash 1206 the other day and that's when this started happening. I already have a USB keyboard, why would a new one help? I'll try flashing back, if I can figure out how the flashback button works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


. Page 2-43 in manual. Picture of it in buildlog photos antec facelift:thumb:


----------



## Piloten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> . Page 2-43 in manual. Picture of it in buildlog photos antec facelift:thumb:


Do you do it with the computer on? It doesn't say.


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Same situation here mate, I idle at 45-50 and game at 60-70 C.
> 
> Looking good under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just install the thermal radar software and set custom profiles for the assist fans.
> You'll never hear from them again


Thanks. it's funny , I played with the Thermal Radar when i first got the board. I'm only seeing those "allow fan stop" buttons now. It's all good , keeping the fans installed. They kick in when things get to 45 degrees.I'll be too busy to hear anything at that temp.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> Do you do it with the computer on? It doesn't say.


shut down pc but leave power on to your power supply. Check how I did it in my antec build log photos in my Sig.

You mentioned 1206. Have tried 1304?


----------



## Piloten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> shut down pc but leave power on to your power supply. Check how I did it in my antec build log photos in my Sig.
> You mentioned 1206. Have tried 1304?


I believe I also flashed 1304 the other day as well. I tried using the flashback feature right now and the LED just stays solid, indicating that it's not working. I downloaded the .cap file from the Asus website. Any advice?


----------



## Piloten

Fixed it. The file has to be named Z77ST.cap for it to work. I flashed back to 1015 and I can now get into BIOS. Thanks guys.


----------



## FishCommander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SilkyJohnson*
> 
> Thank you and the fish commander for the replies. Its either this board or the asrock pro or extreme 9. The Pro has a much higher power phase count so I would think for overclocking it would be the better performer. Although its only speculation. Ill do some more research.


I've heard the Asrock is an amazing board for OCer's. I've got mine at 4.5 and im using two RAD's temps hover around 67ish under full load with my Sabertooth. Honestly though I bought the board because I liked the way it looked. From what I understand most motherboards perform within 5-10% of each other (although I've not used enough boards to confirm). I don't want to steer you away from this board because I'm more than happy with it, but that Asrock is supposed to be really good too


----------



## FishCommander

[quote name="javaneze" url="/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1520#post_17726360"
What is your LLC setting; What vcore are you getting in cpuz under idle/load?
[/quote]

cpu-z reports as low as .992 idle and load up too 1.208

Last night I adjusted the cpu offset from 0.010 to 0.040 LLC is default no crashes so far, I'm going to try Intel burn test (run it ten times or so).

Temps are in check if that matters around 67c


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> Fixed it. The file has to be named Z77ST.cap for it to work. I flashed back to 1015 and I can now get into BIOS. Thanks guys.










did you try the new BIOS ? 1304?


----------



## Piloten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you try the new BIOS ? 1304?


1304 didn't work for me, jumped back to the most previous version before 1206.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> 1304 didn't work for me, jumped back to the most previous version before 1206.


. Good to know ..thanks:thumb:


----------



## lzepplin01

Hey guys, my rig is back up and running. RMA came back today and they essentially gave me brand new one. Came in the same retail packaging with all the retail stuff, so I have extra parts if anyone needs some. Here is a pic of the setup, it's really messy ATM but I just want to fire it up.



I'm running the newest BIOS (1304) without any issues.

Parts list:
3570K w/ Corsair H80 (fans are plugged into mobo but they're extremely loud so I may change that. sounds like an airplane!)
G.Skill Ares 2133 (16 GB) 9-11-10
ASUS GTX 670 DirectCuII
Blu Ray burner
Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240 GB SSD
2 x 3TB samsung spinners
Rosewill 750W PSU
Antec Nine Hundred Case

Going to be overclocking tomorrow to see what she can do, will update with BIOS images and all.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Can anyone please help me,

For the life of me I can not get my front USB 3 header to work.

It reads the Flash Drive but then I get this error and it does not work.

I have tried two conectors and two pen drives.

My USB 2 stick works perfectly and the USB 3 Pen Drive works in the intel back port just fine.

It is like it cant get enough power or something ?









Im not using anyother USB 3 connectors beside the front panel, and have both of the drivers installed.


----------



## 11yrldrigbilder

I was very stupid in instaling the cpu cooler before i installed the 2nd accesory fan, the cooler blocks the accesory fan lid! Can anyone tell me if I can run the board without the 2nd fan? A quick reply will be appreciated much.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Hey guys, my rig is back up and running. RMA came back today and they essentially gave me brand new one. Came in the same retail packaging with all the retail stuff, so I have extra parts if anyone needs some. Here is a pic of the setup, it's really messy ATM but I just want to fire it up.
> 
> I'm running the newest BIOS (1304) without any issues.
> Parts list:
> 3570K w/ Corsair H80 (fans are plugged into mobo but they're extremely loud so I may change that. sounds like an airplane!)
> G.Skill Ares 2133 (16 GB) 9-11-10
> ASUS GTX 670 DirectCuII
> Blu Ray burner
> Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240 GB SSD
> 2 x 3TB samsung spinners
> Rosewill 750W PSU
> Antec Nine Hundred Case
> Going to be overclocking tomorrow to see what she can do, will update with BIOS images and all.


. Props to you for even posting that mess.







. It's got to feel good to be alive again.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *11yrldrigbilder*
> 
> I was very stupid in instaling the cpu cooler before i installed the 2nd accesory fan, the cooler blocks the accesory fan lid! Can anyone tell me if I can run the board without the 2nd fan? A quick reply will be appreciated much.
> Thanks in advance


. Yes you can still run the board.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishCommander*
> 
> Last night I adjusted the cpu offset from 0.010 to 0.040 LLC is default no crashes so far


My understanding is that you should not leave the LLC setting at auto.
Set it to medium or high and then play with the offset.

It's probably the reason you got unstable in the first place.
Auto LLC can peak up to 1.4v no matter the amount of offset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> I played with the Thermal Radar when i first got the board. I'm only seeing those "allow fan stop" buttons now. It's all good , keeping the fans installed. They kick in when things get to 45 degrees.I'll be too busy to hear anything at that temp.


Lol 45C are my idle temps these days. Ambient is around 34 C









Anyway this is how I've set my profile and just to give an idea.
It's dead silent at this profile.


Spoiler: Thermal Radar Screenshot


----------



## Tau86

guys I have a *"TP LINK 450Mbps Wireless N Dual Band PCI Express Adapter* " and my question is which slot is best for it out of the following slots;

3 x PCIe 2.0 x1
1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 Bandwidth)
1 x PCIe 3.0 x16

I know this is for the Graphics Card;
1 x PCIe 3.0 x16 (x8 Bandwidth)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Can anyone please help me,
> For the life of me I can not get my front USB 3 header to work.
> It reads the Flash Drive but then I get this error and it does not work.
> I have tried two conectors and two pen drives.
> My USB 2 stick works perfectly and the USB 3 Pen Drive works in the intel back port just fine.
> It is like it cant get enough power or something ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im not using anyother USB 3 connectors beside the front panel, and have both of the drivers installed.


Did it ever work? What BIOS rev. Are you using? Have you tried reverting back to older BIOS revisions. Uninstalling Reinstalling Driver? BIOS 1206 introduced some strange behavior for some guys.


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Lol 45C are my idle temps these days. Ambient is around 34 C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway this is how I've set my profile and just to give an idea.
> It's dead silent at this profile.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Thermal Radar Screenshot


Hilarious , ambient here is in the low 20's today. That seems warm to me







I never want them on unless I'm gaming. The silence is too good...


----------



## Saurk66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Those temps are safe, but Im running @ 4.2 with only the H60 and hit 53C on the high end. Ambient temps could be a factor, my room is about 72F (22C).


I at 4.4GHz at stock voltage with a Kuhler 620 in push/pull. In full load i get to about 74 degrees C.


----------



## lzepplin01

So I just fiddled with the multiplier today and I'm at 4.7 but spike up into the low 90s running intel burn test. Very stable otherwise I'm guessing that this has to do with the VCore cranking up to about 1.4 under full load. Any way to reduce the upper limit of VCore?


----------



## javaneze

Low 90s are perfectly fine & safe for IBT runs mate, don't worry too much about it.

Nevertheless, what are your vcore and LLC settings for hitting 4.7?
Or did you mean you left everything else on auto except the multiplier?
Which cpu are we talking about?

Btw, mentioning your cpu on your sig is not only for e-peen when participating in technical discussions


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Low 90s are perfectly fine & safe for IBT runs mate, don't worry too much about it.
> Nevertheless, what are your vcore and LLC settings for hitting 4.7?
> Or did you mean you left everything else on auto except the multiplier?
> Which cpu are we talking about?
> Btw, mentioning your cpu on your sig is not only for e-peen when participating in technical discussions


Well my Vcore seems to vary from 1.18 to 1.42 at full load. Everything else is completely unchanged, besides the multiplier.
It is the 3570K CPU. How do I change the sig? I have looked in my profile settings but havent found a place to edit the sig. Thanks for your input 

Edit: Just ran a benchmark on my SSD: 
Just jacked the multiplier up to 47, stable and same temps in IBT. On a side note, the fans with the H80 are REALLY loud when they get going.


----------



## javaneze

Well I would not be happy with a 1.4v vcore but thats just me.
If you are ok temp-wise maybe no harm is done.

If you want to try and find a lower setting, set your Load Line Calibration to either medium/high/super high and give a 1.30 to start with and work your way down or up for an IBT stable OC.

If you want to keep a variable vcore, I'd start with a +0.100 offset and work from there.

P.S. Open your profile and scroll down, under "recent activity" and "photos" is "your forum signature".
There is an "edit" link there.


----------



## Diggz

Hello Everyone! I've been a lurker of this forum for some time and I finally have my system setup to a point where I am satisfied to post on this thread!

I'm stable at 4.6ghz on my 3570k. Temps are in the 65-72C range in full load via OCCT or Prime95. But they never really go past 60C during everyday uses(mostly gaming). This all thanks to the Thermaltake Water2.0 Extreme.

And BTW, BIOS 1304 did wonders for me. When I was on 1206, I could not overclock anything past 4.2ghz since any attempt to go past that gave me boot hangs or BSOD. But all that is gone now!

Thanks for all the information you guys put on here, really helps a lot!

Here's the bios setup.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diggz*
> 
> Hello Everyone! I've been a lurker of this forum for some time and I finally have my system setup to a point where I am satisfied to post on this thread!
> I'm stable at 4.6ghz on my 3570k. Temps are in the 65-72C range in full load via OCCT or Prime95. But they never really go past 60C during everyday uses(mostly gaming). This all thanks to the Thermaltake Water2.0 Extreme.
> And BTW, BIOS 1304 did wonders for me. When I was on 1206, I could not overclock anything past 4.2ghz since any attempt to go past that gave me boot hangs or BSOD. But all that is gone now!
> Thanks for all the information you guys put on here, really helps a lot!
> Here's the bios setup.


Welcome


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tau86*
> 
> guys I have a *"TP LINK 450Mbps Wireless N Dual Band PCI Express Adapter* " and my question is which slot is best for it out of the following slots;
> 3 x PCIe 2.0 x1
> 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (x4 Bandwidth)
> 1 x PCIe 3.0 x16
> I know this is for the Graphics Card;
> 1 x PCIe 3.0 x16 (x8 Bandwidth)


if you look at page 2-12/2-13 owner manual PCIe 2.0 x1_2 looks good as far as shared IRQ goes.
It is a PCIe x 1 card so you only have 3 choices.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Well I would not be happy with a 1.4v vcore but thats just me.
> If you are ok temp-wise maybe no harm is done.
> If you want to try and find a lower setting, set your Load Line Calibration to either medium/high/super high and give a 1.30 to start with and work your way down or up for an IBT stable OC.
> If you want to keep a variable vcore, I'd start with a +0.100 offset and work from there.
> P.S. Open your profile and scroll down, under "recent activity" and "photos" is "your forum signature".
> There is an "edit" link there.


+REP
Thanks man I will do all that you just said. BBL with more info. You rock 
Edit: haha wow I totally missed that sig input at the bottom there.
Do you recommend a variable VCore? It seems that, since my computer usually idles and operates at low speeds, that a variable VCore would keep the CPU, on average, at a lower voltage and thus cause less stress to the CPU. If this is not true let me know.
1.4 volts is really too high for my taste and may be why I'm spiking into the 90s. Any way to keep a variable VCore yet cap the max VCore?


----------



## Piloten

Following Digg's and Hanoverfist's advice here on overclocking on this board. Thanks a lot for those screenshots of the BIOS by the way. I'm used to 'old fashioned' overclocking so all these settings are a little overwhelming. Quick question for you two, I have the voltage set to offset 0.1V like you but overclocked to 4.5GHz and my computer failed IntelBurn Test on run 16/20 ('Very High' mode and 'Xtreme Stress' mode on). Temperatures are acceptable so I think it might need a hair more voltage. Would you just bump the offset to 0.2V or something to give it that little extra it needs? Again, not asking for overclocking advice, just how to understand the settings on this board.


----------



## Diggz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> Following Digg's and Hanoverfist's advice here on overclocking on this board. Thanks a lot for those screenshots of the BIOS by the way. I'm used to 'old fashioned' overclocking so all these settings are a little overwhelming. Quick question for you two, I have the voltage set to offset 0.1V like you but overclocked to 4.5GHz and my computer failed IntelBurn Test on run 16/20 ('Very High' mode and 'Xtreme Stress' mode on). Temperatures are acceptable so I think it might need a hair more voltage. Would you just bump the offset to 0.2V or something to give it that little extra it needs? Again, not asking for overclocking advice, just how to understand the settings on this board.


Bumping it from 0.1V to 0.2V seems a bit extreme. What is your CPU voltage and general cpu temps during the stress tests? @4.5ghz on my 3570k I would be around 1.270v - 1.300v under load.


----------



## Piloten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diggz*
> 
> Bumping it from 0.1V to 0.2V seems a bit extreme. What is your CPU voltage and general cpu temps during the stress tests? @4.5ghz on my 3570k I would be around 1.270v - 1.300v under load.


I did not know a 0.1V increase would be considered extreme...heh. The average temperature was a steady high 70C's during the test. I don't remember the exact voltage under load but i know it was over 1.2V but less than 1.3V for sure.

What exactly does the voltage offset setting do? Would 0.12V or 0.15V be more normal?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> I did not know a 0.1V increase would be considered extreme...heh. The average temperature was a steady high 70C's during the test. I don't remember the exact voltage under load but i know it was over 1.2V but less than 1.3V for sure.
> What exactly does the voltage offset setting do? Would 0.12V or 0.15V be more normal?


Thanks for the kind word.. Im still waiting for water loop to arrive so i dont even have my board running yet but have a quick read here and maybe help you to understand offset and cpu voltage.








http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2162-Overclocking-Using-Offset-Mode-for-CPU-Core-Voltage

Also some decent reading here.http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69 uefi OC guide:thumb:


----------



## lawlbringer

Is 20 runs of IBT really necessary? I usually do 5-10 and have never had any stability issues afterward if the system passes. I have run Prime 95 for a full day and then come back and have stuff crash on me though...

Right now I'm at 4.5GHz @ 1.21v. Anything higher will BSOD shortly after booting into Windows, and will need a bit more voltage to be stable(which isn't worth it to me.) Think I'm safe? Even with a Noctua NH-D14 my IBT temps cap out around 90c...which is rather high, but with Prime it's only 70 or so. My case has pretty bad airflow(Corsair 550D) but I got it more for quiet operation.

Now I'm a bit paranoid after reading some of the above posts...running IBT 20 times, jesus...I wonder how much degradation that'd put on my CPU if I did it overnight?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> Is 20 runs of IBT really necessary? I usually do 5-10 and have never had any stability issues afterward if the system passes. I have run Prime 95 for a full day and then come back and have stuff crash on me though...
> Right now I'm at 4.5GHz @ 1.21v. Anything higher will BSOD shortly after booting into Windows, and will need a bit more voltage to be stable(which isn't worth it to me.) Think I'm safe? Even with a Noctua NH-D14 my IBT temps cap out around 90c...which is rather high, but with Prime it's only 70 or so. My case has pretty bad airflow(Corsair 550D) but I got it more for quiet operation.
> Now I'm a bit paranoid after reading some of the above posts...running IBT 20 times, jesus...I wonder how much degradation that'd put on my CPU if I did it overnight?


. You bring up a great point. Is IBT 20 times really needed. I like to think in terms of real world loads on my system day to day. And in all honesty IBT is way more than you'll see real world. Although it gives an incredible 100 % load it is more than I use to stress test .. Prime to me is enough. That's just my take. And as far as the amount of time I run prime ..if I'm really wanting to find a max stable OC 12 hours is enough. But we all do things differently and with different software stress tests. It's all about what your happy with ..








With that cooler i would not be afraid to up voltage to 1.3? I personally would be a little worried about 1.4 but your at 4.5 on what cpu?


----------



## Edb007th

Hey All,

I finally had the bells to build my first rig. I used the Z77 Sabertooth as the backbone of my build, and i was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction with a few questions. Here's the build:

Corsair Obsidian 650D case
ASUS Sabertooth Z77 MoBo
Intel i5-3570k CPU
Corsair AX 750 PSU
EVGA GTX 670 FTW GPU
G. Skill Ripjaws Z series 8GB (2x4GB) DDR32400 Model F3-2400C10D-8GZH
Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD (For the OS)
WD 1TB Caviar Black WD1002FAEX SATA 6.0Gb
Corsair H100 Cooler
HP 24x DVD R/W
ASUS 24" VW246H Monitor

The build went great. Everything is up & running fine. Now the fun stuff. I want to know what programs/utilities/etc. to use to make sure I'm getting the most bang for my buck. I'm a rookie with this stuff, and if this is posted in the wrong forum, I do apologize. Also, if there is an "Overclocking for dummies" on the site, I haven't found it (hence the dummy). Thanks for the time and the assistance in advance.

EdB007th


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Did it ever work? What BIOS rev. Are you using? Have you tried reverting back to older BIOS revisions. Uninstalling Reinstalling Driver? BIOS 1206 introduced some strange behavior for some guys.


Thanks for the reply,

Im running latest bios,

Starting to suspect it may be the USB 3 drive that is causing the issue as USB 2 drives work just fine.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> Hey All,
> I finally had the bells to build my first rig. I used the Z77 Sabertooth as the backbone of my build, and i was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction with a few questions. Here's the build:
> Corsair Obsidian 650D case
> ASUS Sabertooth Z77 MoBo
> Intel i5-3570k CPU
> Corsair AX 750 PSU
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW GPU
> G. Skill Ripjaws Z series 8GB (2x4GB) DDR32400 Model F3-2400C10D-8GZH
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD (For the OS)
> WD 1TB Caviar Black WD1002FAEX SATA 6.0Gb
> Corsair H100 Cooler
> HP 24x DVD R/W
> ASUS 24" VW246H Monitor
> The build went great. Everything is up & running fine. Now the fun stuff. I want to know what programs/utilities/etc. to use to make sure I'm getting the most bang for my buck. I'm a rookie with this stuff, and if this is posted in the wrong forum, I do apologize. Also, if there is an "Overclocking for dummies" on the site, I haven't found it (hence the dummy). Thanks for the time and the assistance in advance.
> EdB007th


Your build looks great,

Here is a template of the bios for your delight,

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1460

On this Page......


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> Hey All,
> I finally had the bells to build my first rig. I used the Z77 Sabertooth as the backbone of my build, and i was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction with a few questions. Here's the build:
> Corsair Obsidian 650D case
> ASUS Sabertooth Z77 MoBo
> Intel i5-3570k CPU
> Corsair AX 750 PSU
> EVGA GTX 670 FTW GPU
> G. Skill Ripjaws Z series 8GB (2x4GB) DDR32400 Model F3-2400C10D-8GZH
> Corsair Force 3 60GB SSD (For the OS)
> WD 1TB Caviar Black WD1002FAEX SATA 6.0Gb
> Corsair H100 Cooler
> HP 24x DVD R/W
> ASUS 24" VW246H Monitor
> The build went great. Everything is up & running fine. Now the fun stuff. I want to know what programs/utilities/etc. to use to make sure I'm getting the most bang for my buck. I'm a rookie with this stuff, and if this is posted in the wrong forum, I do apologize. Also, if there is an "Overclocking for dummies" on the site, I haven't found it (hence the dummy). Thanks for the time and the assistance in advance.
> EdB007th


Welcome and start with this guide to OC in the uefi bioshttp://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69 then there all several stress utilities for cpu and gpu testing and benchmarking. start with understanding your bios functions first so you actually understand whats going on. once you grasp that then start stress testing and benchmarking if thats what you aim to do.









and a great thread for your video card http://www.overclock.net/t/1265110/the-gtx-670-overclocking-master-guide


----------



## lawlbringer

Crap, spoke too soon.

Google Chrome kept crashing then all of a sudden I got a BSOD. I'm wondering if maybe this is caused by corruption since I got about 6 bluescreens within the last 24 hours...

"071812-6614-01.dmp 7/18/2012 10:28:02 PM INTERRUPT_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED 0x0000003d fffff800`047a4d90 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 fffff880`0f4d2d85 nvlddmkm.sys nvlddmkm.sys+7fd85 x64 ntoskrnl.exe+7f1c0 C:\Windows\Minidump\071812-6614-01.dmp 4 15 7601 262,144"

This is what I got...I ran IBT for 10 passes an hour earlier without problems, then all of a sudden this happened. I backed down to 4.4GHz and things are fine right now with Chrome. Any ideas?

I'm running a i5 3570K with offset @ 0.035 giving me 1.21v under 100% load.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> Crap, spoke too soon.
> Google Chrome kept crashing then all of a sudden I got a BSOD. I'm wondering if maybe this is caused by corruption since I got about 6 bluescreens within the last 24 hours...
> "071812-6614-01.dmp 7/18/2012 10:28:02 PM INTERRUPT_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED 0x0000003d fffff800`047a4d90 00000000`00000000 00000000`00000000 fffff880`0f4d2d85 nvlddmkm.sys nvlddmkm.sys+7fd85 x64 ntoskrnl.exe+7f1c0 C:\Windows\Minidump\071812-6614-01.dmp 4 15 7601 262,144"
> This is what I got...I ran IBT for 10 passes an hour earlier without problems, then all of a sudden this happened. I backed down to 4.4GHz and things are fine right now with Chrome. Any ideas?
> I'm running a i5 3570K with offset @ 0.035 giving me 1.21v under 100% load.


can you bump that voltage up a little and get stable. hard to tell from here. Anything over 70c full load would personally worry my a little. reading about other guys with i3570k's starting to max at 4.5 with 1.225v and anything over 4.5 is a dramatic volt increase. good luck with it


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

4.4 @ 1.280 was the sweet spot for me, using the offset method,

I see guys increasing the offset getting 4.5 stability.

Im guessing there would be very little preformance increase from 4.4 to 4.5 anyways.


----------



## Blatsz32

Guys i need some help.... I'm having Bios issues. my overclocks will not keep. Anytime I try to overclock it sets in the Bios but reads diffrent in the OS. I have the UEFI set to 4.5 with a voltage offset(+) 0.050, and BCLK set at 102.0..wehn I go into the OS it reads 4.433 voltage at 1.28 ( which is offset(+) 0.060) and my BCLK is at 99.8..I'm getting very frustrated. I've done everything I could possibly do without taking off the ARMOUR. I've reset the CMOS, reconfiged all tje cables, flashed the BIOS back 3 versions, then back up to 1304. I'm wondering if I need to replace the CMOS battery, which, seem svery strange. those things last for a long time and I've only had it for 3 months. Any suggestions. I'd hate to have to RMA as this is the only system I'vve got.

I guess if worse comes to worse and I have to I can buy an old 775socket for my Q6600 but will that cpu even handle BF3?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Guys i need some help.... I'm having Bios issues. my overclocks will not keep. Anytime I try to overclock it sets in the Bios but reads diffrent in the OS. I have the UEFI set to 4.5 with a voltage offset(+) 0.050, and BCLK set at 102.0..wehn I go into the OS it reads 4.433 voltage at 1.28 ( which is offset(+) 0.060) and my BCLK is at 99.8..I'm getting very frustrated. I've done everything I could possibly do without taking off the ARMOUR. I've reset the CMOS, reconfiged all tje cables, flashed the BIOS back 3 versions, then back up to 1304. I'm wondering if I need to replace the CMOS battery, which, seem svery strange. those things last for a long time and I've only had it for 3 months. Any suggestions. I'd hate to have to RMA as this is the only system I'vve got.
> I guess if worse comes to worse and I have to I can buy an old 775socket for my Q6600 but will that cpu even handle BF3?


did this just start happening out of the blue? What OS are you using ? What utility in the OS are using ? Have you tried other monitoring utility to see same results? Have you tried setting your current BIOS back to default/auto settings then see what happens. I'm just brain storming and Apollogize if you have tried all this already.


----------



## Blatsz32

yes reset BIOS to default, tried diffrent monitoring utility...still the same thing. I'm so bummed
Whats even more strange is that when I reset the CMOS sometimes not all the setting revert to the default settings. Everything should go to default and I should get the CPU FAN halt..but it goes righ tto the OS. When I reset and go to the BIOS, the clocks and memory timings/frequency are reset but some of the other settings are still the same

seems that I'm losing .2Mhz on all the settings..BCLK and Frequency. At Load I'm at 4.498 and BCLK is at 98.0


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> yes reset BIOS to default, tried diffrent monitoring utility...still the same thing. I'm so bummed


. Ok .. I'm trying to research this a little. It's definitely a challenging problem. Just need to know your OS....


----------



## lilj

guys i have no idea how i can upgrade my bios to the new one, any help ?\

So far i just have te bios intro a USB stick and i have no idea what to do next, and should i back up my old bios ?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilj*
> 
> guys i have no idea how i can upgrade my bios to the new one, any help ?\
> So far i just have te bios intro a USB stick and i have no idea what to do next, and should i back up my old bios ?


Install the new bios to a USB stick

Go to the UEFI

Go to tools

You should see Asus EZ Flash utility there

go to it

Find your USB stick drive and the bios file

and just run it

It would be good if you LOAD OPTIMIZED SETTINGS before which will take your bios to factory default settings.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilj*
> 
> guys i have no idea how i can upgrade my bios to the new one, any help ?\
> So far i just have te bios intro a USB stick and i have no idea what to do next, and should i back up my old bios ?


You have a couple of options.

1. You can fiash through the utility in your bios. Simply put the flash drive in your USB. Reboot...hit DEL and enter bios. Under utilities...use EZ Flash
2. Get out your manual and use the Intel USB 3.0 port specified. Shut down and turn the machine off. Leave power to the machine active. Put the flash drive in the USB port...and hit the flash button. When stops blinking, you are done. That simple

Also...make sure to set bios settings to DEFAULT before flashing. Flashing the bios while overclocked may cause issues. Once flashed...reboot...and set up your bios...should be good to go


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilj*
> 
> guys i have no idea how i can upgrade my bios to the new one, any help ?\
> So far i just have te bios intro a USB stick and i have no idea what to do next, and should i back up my old bios ?


If you use the flashback method rename the file to Z77ST.CAP


----------



## LibNate

Received the rest of the parts for my rig yesterday (i7 3770K and GTX 670). Got it all put together, still have a bit of wire management left to do, but waiting on a few more pieces for that. My old keyboard and mouse are both PS/2, and as we all know, the Sabertooth Z77 is devoid of those legacy ports.







Finished late last night so I couldn't be bothered to find a USB keyboard and mouse from one of the many boxes I still haven't unpacked since I moved. Oh well...

Will get Windows and Linux installed tonight and then the fun with overclocking can begin.


----------



## Chillie

Hey guys. Im running a Asus sabertooth z77. I've had out of the box for maybe 3 days. So far I've had nothing but problems!!!! I first had an issue with the on-board gpu trying to override my PCIe gpus. I figured that problem out in the BIOS (simple setting i over looked). However I have been consistently experiencing unexpected shutdowns!!!! I figured it had to be related to maybe that intel rapid storage stuff ASUS sends you on the driver disc. I uninstalled that. which through a little research, I've realized that could not have been the problem. any how i decided to uninstall most of the intel features that came on the driver disc since the uninstalls the rig is actually running better since than. I am also running a 3570k, I had that LucidLogix Virtu MVP installed, through some reading i did i found that is only really for sandy bridge CPU. the 3570k being an ivy bridge i thought that could a problem there, so i uninstalled that too. OH last question, my rig is also taking close to 1minute to finish its start up. O read somewhere that the realtek hd audio software can be the problem of this, so I uninstalled that to. Which fixed the issue to a degree.

Im kinda lost any suggestions would be amazing!!! my concern is that I bought an amazing mobo that is either defective or there is a learning curve to this type of system.

Thanks.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LibNate*
> 
> Received the rest of the parts for my rig yesterday (i7 3770K and GTX 670). Got it all put together, still have a bit of wire management left to do, but waiting on a few more pieces for that. My old keyboard and mouse are both PS/2, and as we all know, the Sabertooth Z77 is devoid of those legacy ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished late last night so I couldn't be bothered to find a USB keyboard and mouse from one of the many boxes I still haven't unpacked since I moved. Oh well...
> Will get Windows and Linux installed tonight and then the fun with overclocking can begin.


Post some pics if you can Sounds like a nice build. Place it in the rigbuilder


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Hey guys. Im running a Asus sabertooth z77. I've had out of the box for maybe 3 days. So far I've had nothing but problems!!!! I first had an issue with the on-board gpu trying to override my PCIe gpus. I figured that problem out in the BIOS (simple setting i over looked). However I have been consistently experiencing unexpected shutdowns!!!! I figured it had to be related to maybe that intel rapid storage stuff ASUS sends you on the driver disc. I uninstalled that. which through a little research, I've realized that could not have been the problem. any how i decided to uninstall most of the intel features that came on the driver disc since the uninstalls the rig is actually running better since than. I am also running a 3570k, I had that LucidLogix Virtu MVP installed, through some reading i did i found that is only really for sandy bridge CPU. the 3570k being an ivy bridge i thought that could a problem there, so i uninstalled that too. OH last question, my rig is also taking close to 1minute to finish its start up. O read somewhere that the realtek hd audio software can be the problem of this, so I uninstalled that to. Which fixed the issue to a degree.
> Im kinda lost any suggestions would be amazing!!! my concern is that I bought an amazing mobo that is either defective or there is a learning curve to this type of system.
> Thanks.


As far as the slow boot time it is being mentioned herehttp://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1050
post 1058 I don't know what bios you are currently on?


----------



## lawlbringer

Alright so after backing off my OC to 4.4GHZ @ 1.21v from 4.5 at the same voltage my system has not been acting up anymore. Linx passed 20 times, and I even ran Prime for a bit to make sure it didn't crash there.

Temps are high yes, but my ambient is pretty high also. I'd say around 30c/85ish F. Again, I'm using a Corsair 550D which is more for quiet operation, but I know stress testing with Linx/IBT/Prime is pretty unrealistic for everyday load type of stuff - but I'd rather it stay stable with a mix of those to eliminate any possibility of instability.

The stock coolers on this case are junk, but what's funny is the quiet "air flow" series fans from Corsair move about the same amount of air and make more noise. I guess I could slap some more Noctua's in the front as intakes, but it may make little to no difference since they're intake fans 7" away from the motherboard.

I'm kinda tempted to try 4.5 again with a .045 offset to see if it's stable, but then again the performance gain is probably minimal and my temps are already high as crap under Linx/IBT. Prime is around 75c on the hottest core.

BTW - Has anyone tried the new BIOS that came out the other week? How Is it?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> Alright so after backing off my OC to 4.4GHZ @ 1.21v from 4.5 at the same voltage my system has not been acting up anymore. Linx passed 20 times, and I even ran Prime for a bit to make sure it didn't crash there.
> Temps are high yes, but my ambient is pretty high also. I'd say around 30c/85ish F. Again, I'm using a Corsair 550D which is more for quiet operation, but I know stress testing with Linx/IBT/Prime is pretty unrealistic for everyday load type of stuff - but I'd rather it stay stable with a mix of those to eliminate any possibility of instability.
> The stock coolers on this case are junk, but what's funny is the quiet "air flow" series fans from Corsair move about the same amount of air and make more noise. I guess I could slap some more Noctua's in the front as intakes, but it may make little to no difference since they're intake fans 7" away from the motherboard.
> I'm kinda tempted to try 4.5 again with a .045 offset to see if it's stable, but then again the performance gain is probably minimal and my temps are already high as crap under Linx/IBT. Prime is around 75c on the hottest core.
> BTW - Has anyone tried the new BIOS that came out the other week? How Is it?


1304 Bios runs fine, didn't notice any change personally..


----------



## Chillie

So i debating on returning my sabertooth z77. It just seems off in same ways, its just kinda of annoying! Any thing yall think i should adjust or double check!? I highly doubt i have a deffective mobo.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> So i debating on returning my sabertooth z77. It just seems off in same ways, its just kinda of annoying! Any thing yall think i should adjust or double check!? I highly doubt i have a deffective mobo.


did you do a clean OS install from the start? You could try posting some shots of your bios like others here have done. That is extremely helpful to others that look at your problem since you seem to think it might be an issue. What bios are you currently running? Have you tried another? Sorry to hear your having such a time of it. I know we all buy stuff and just want it to work. What are your system specs? Give a little info on your hardware setup.. someone might see that they have an identical system and be able to help quickly.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> So i debating on returning my sabertooth z77. It just seems off in same ways, its just kinda of annoying! Any thing yall think i should adjust or double check!? I highly doubt i have a deffective mobo.


What does "off in some way" mean exactly?


----------



## SenorRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> What does "off in some way" mean exactly?


Off in some way? this is not very descriptive, so there really isn't any direction that can be given.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Do you recommend a variable VCore? It seems that, since my computer usually idles and operates at low speeds, that a variable VCore would keep the CPU, on average, at a lower voltage and thus cause less stress to the CPU. If this is not true let me know.
> 1.4 volts is really too high for my taste and may be why I'm spiking into the 90s. Any way to keep a variable VCore yet cap the max VCore?


I'm 100% behind the variable vcore and the offset setting for the exact same reasons you explain.
No actual option for capping the max vcore, but you can control it through the LLC and offset settings.
Just remember to always set LLC to something and not let it at auto.

Ok, so this is about how the LLC works on the maximus V gene but should give you an understanding of how LLC works.


http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/53512-asus-maximus-v-gene-z77-matx-motherboard-review-18.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> What exactly does the voltage offset setting do? Would 0.12V or 0.15V be more normal?


Most of us here are running at 4.5 with an offset of +0.005 to give you an idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> Now I'm a bit paranoid after reading some of the above posts...running IBT 20 times, jesus...I wonder how much degradation that'd put on my CPU if I did it overnight?


Degradation comes from overvolting you cpu for a considerable amount of time, not just by some runs of stress testing.
You are safe to try it within reasonable amounts of vcore.
...
Crashing apps like web browsers is most of the time caused by low vcore.
You mention your offset of 0.035 but what is your LLC setting?
If you have it on auto, a very low/high instant peak could be the cause of your crashes also.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> I have the UEFI set to 4.5 with a voltage offset(+) 0.050, and BCLK set at 102.0..wehn I go into the OS it reads 4.433 voltage at 1.28 ( which is offset(+) 0.060) and my BCLK is at 99.8.


Don't try to reason the offset setting mate.
Unfortunately the cpu VID is not stable as one would expect.
You could shutdown/start your pc 3 times in a row with default bios settings, and still get a different CPU VID each time.
So the offset of + 0.050 will not always give you the same result in vcore, and also don't forget to take vdroop into account.
A different LLC setting will bring different control over your vdroop and different results in your vcore.

Setting an XMP profile could be the reason that your 102 BCLK is not getting through.
Have you set one?
For me, those 2 MHz are not worth the headache, I think you are OCing all your pci lanes when changing your BCLK so that might mean more heat and maybe stability issues with your graphics card and ram.


----------



## Chillie

"off" meaning it seems like some aspects of the computer are not behaving properly. But that does not really matter anymore, I decided to keep the sabertooth. I feel like i just need to give the manual another quick read/forums. So far one of my major problems was was a quick windows setting that i had forgotten about! So far I've slowly been able to get everything somewhat back in order. I kinda expected a mobo of this caliber to work perfectly after the drivers were installed. Which is obviously not the case for me. STICKING with the SABERTOOTH till she dies on me!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I'm 100% behind the variable vcore and the offset setting for the exact same reasons you explain.
> No actual option for capping the max vcore, but you can control it through the LLC and offset settings.
> Just remember to always set LLC to something and not let it at auto.
> Ok, so this is about how the LLC works on the maximus V gene but should give you an understanding of how LLC works.
> 
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/53512-asus-maximus-v-gene-z77-matx-motherboard-review-18.html
> Most of us here are running at 4.5 with an offset of +0.005 to give you an idea.
> Degradation comes from overvolting you cpu for a considerable amount of time, not just by some runs of stress testing.
> You are safe to try it within reasonable amounts of vcore.
> ...
> Crashing apps like web browsers is most of the time caused by low vcore.
> You mention your offset of 0.035 but what is your LLC setting?
> If you have it on auto, a very low/high instant peak could be the cause of your crashes also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't try to reason the offset setting mate.
> Unfortunately the cpu VID is not stable as one would expect.
> You could shutdown/start your pc 3 times in a row with default bios settings, and still get a different CPU VID each time.
> So the offset of + 0.050 will not always give you the same result in vcore, and also don't forget to take vdroop into account.
> A different LLC setting will bring different control over your vdroop and different results in your vcore.
> Setting an XMP profile could be the reason that your 102 BCLK is not getting through.
> Have you set one?
> For me, those 2 MHz are not worth the headache, I think you are OCing all your pci lanes when changing your BCLK so that might mean more heat and maybe stability issues with your graphics card and ram.


. Excellent post ..Rep +1:thumb:


----------



## Hanoverfist

I think this looks good Naked


----------



## Wakakuu

My mobo is acting out, just blinks red and keeps restarting every 5-6 sec, tried removing the ram seperatly.. any ideas?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> My mobo is acting out, just blinks red and keeps restarting every 5-6 sec, tried removing the ram seperatly.. any ideas?


which led is blinking?


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> which led is blinking?


CPU led


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> CPU led


Try re seating the CPU . Is your 8 pin power lead connected?


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Try re seating the CPU . Is your 8 pin power lead connected?


Tried this but didnt fix it, every time cpu led blinks for a second both psu and cpufan start up with restart as a fact 1 second later


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> Tried this but didnt fix it, every time cpu led blinks for a second both psu and cpufan start up with restart as a fact 1 second later


yes both 24 & 8


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> Tried this but didnt fix it, every time cpu led blinks for a second both psu and cpufan start up with restart as a fact 1 second later


. Do you have an aftermarket cooler back plate on? Is this a brand new build or has it been running? populate only one dimm A2 with a known working stick of ram?


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> . Do you have an aftermarket cooler back plate on?


As it sits now: (Have been running... was ready for RMA!







)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Have you tried clearing your cmos? is that a keyboard and monitor plugged in? try one stick of ram in dimm a2
manual shows when using dual channel install in A2 and B2


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have you tried clearing your cmos? is that a keyboard and monitor plugged in?


memory is now in a2, a monitor is connected. will try clearing cmos thx for your help so far


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> memory is now in a2, a monitor is connected. will try clearing cmos thx for your help so far


move your ram to A2 and B2


----------



## Hanoverfist

Ok


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Ok


clearing cmos didnt sort this out.
I dont even get a picture on the display before cut-out..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> clearing cmos didnt sort this out.
> I dont even get a picture on the display before cut-out..


plug your keyboard into the top usb 2.0 header and your positive the cpu is seated correctly. what cpu is that?


----------



## Wakakuu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> plug your keyboard into the top usb 2.0 header and your positive the cpu is seated correctly. what cpu is that?


The pc was running earlier today, this all occured at a normal startup when i got a bluescreen with hardware error, the cpu is an 3570K and it has been reseated several times..


----------



## Wakakuu

so i guess im not possitive this is an mobo error,, should i return both the cpu and mobo?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> so i guess im not possitive this is an mobo error,, should i return both the cpu and mobo?


wow ok so it was running earlier.. at this point without being there i'm out of ideas. unless someone see something i'm not. bummer. your call on rma. do you have a way of testing that power supply? another system maybe? I cant tell what has failed.. What are you using for a power switch? are you jumping the power switch pins?


----------



## Wakakuu

Yes god works in mysterious ways lol...
Psu is working fine in another system.
Unfortunately i dont have another 1155 i can use to somehow minimize the options... What should i conclude, mobo or cpu?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> Yes god works in mysterious ways lol...
> Psu is working fine in another system.
> Unfortunately i dont have another 1155 i can use to somehow minimize the options... What should i conclude, mobo or cpu?


It is impossible for me to tell you that... In your video what where you using to power on the board i dont see a pwr switch hooked up. were you jumping the pwr switch pins? and personally i would never run a board outside a case like that. but thats just me. just like knowing everything is grounded.


----------



## Wakakuu

Yes now that im trying to solve this, im jumping the pwr switch, the problem occurred when mounted in a case.


----------



## Blatsz32

i belive i've found the issue to my problems. I took out my CPU and found that some of the pins were askew. I'm going to assume that due to them not alighning correctly I was getting faulty readings and random crashes. Mostly System exception errors, IRQL errors and at one point CPU clock errors. I belive the pins got mashed and jostled by the many re-seats of my waterblock and the frequent changing of my thermal paste. W.akakuu, check the pins on your motherboard socket.If they are indeed bent you might have to RMA as they are impossible to fix..you can try but you'll find them to be extremly delicate.

Now, I am not positive that this is the issue but looking at the pins...I'm pretty sure it is. I have already ordered a new board from microcenter and plan to be up and running on a new system by tomorrow afternoon. If this fails then I know its the CPU...but I highly doubt it as everything was running fine till i took out the CPU and then put it bck in. CPU light stayed solid red. I am going to have the CPU tested anyway just to rule that out.

Thought on my Hypothesis?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> i belive i've found the issue to my problems. I took out my CPU and found that some of the pins were askew. I'm going to assume that due to them not alighning correctly I was getting faulty readings and random crashes. Mostly System exception errors, IRQL errors and at one point CPU clock errors. I belive the pins got mashed and jostled by the many re-seats of my waterblock and the frequent changing of my thermal paste. W.akakuu, check the pins on your motherboard socket.If they are indeed bent you might have to RMA as they are impossible to fix..you can try but you'll find them to be extremly delicate.
> Now, I am not positive that this is the issue but looking at the pins...I'm pretty sure it is. I have already ordered a new board from microcenter and plan to be up and running on a new system by tomorrow afternoon. If this fails then I know its the CPU...but I highly doubt it as everything was running fine till i took out the CPU and then put it bck in. CPU light stayed solid red. I am going to have the CPU tested anyway just to rule that out.
> Thought on my Hypothesis?


I would say you are on the right track. I'm staring at the socket pins now and i can see where constant in and out of cpu even if careful could easily damage it.


----------



## LibNate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I would say you are on the right track. I'm staring at the socket pins now and i can see where constant in and out of cpu even if careful could easily damage it.


I cringe every time I close the retention bracket on an Intel processor.

I hope you get your motherboard/CPU issues straightened out, Blatsz32. Bum parts are no fun.


----------



## Wakakuu

Checked my pins on the socket and they all seem fine,,, the strange thing is that this all started at a normal startup, i wasnt messing with the cpu.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hey guys, I just got the SABERTOOTH BEAST yesterday, assembled it. Got a few question that i hope you guys would help me with.

OC temp
1) My I5 2500K processor is overclocked @ 4.5ghz, V: 1.3. I am getting around 33C on idle and 68C (with prime95) with my H100 cooler, ambient is around 24 - 26C. Is it normal???

MOBO mini Fan
2) How do you guys adjust the mini fan in your MOBO? 1 intake and 1 exhuast or???

Attaching case fan to MOBO
3) I am currently using a CM Storm Trooper case and right now i am attaching my bottom(1) and front(2) intake fan to the front panel. My H100 radiator fan(2) to the pump and i had change the fan to CM excalibur, rear exhuast is currently attached to the MOBO.
Question is, should i change the fan connection directly to the MOBO so that i can control the fan speed using Fan Xpert II because right now it seems like my fan is not running at their full potential.

Any other suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Will post pic of my rig soon!!!


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I think this looks good Naked


I think it looks better and runs cooler. That's the way I have it in my rig.


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> W.akakuu, check the pins on your motherboard socket.If they are indeed bent you might have to RMA as they are impossible to fix..you can try but you'll find them to be extremly delicate.


That is not accurate. First, bent pens are not hard to fix with a little care. Second, you typically cannot RMA for bent pins so you are SOL in any case. I'll quote myself:
Quote:


> Bent Pins. Given all the complaints about bent pins over the years, I always check over Intel boards before I do anything and this was the first time I observed bent pins. There were a total of about 10 bent pins in three different areas. The package looked unopened so I am guessing it came this way from the factory. Luckily, if you look at the other pins you can see what normal pins look like (each pin is bent over itself) and with a flashlight, a small flathead screwdriver and some patience, I was able to fix the problem. However, this is simply inexcusable at this pricepoint.


----------



## skiline

hey guy just finished my 24hour prime95 test with success no error did a IBT 10 passes with no warnings here is the prime95 screen shut

temps are 66 Celsius( 150 F ) highest for 24hours
vcore is set at 1.225v
bclk 100x44
cpu pll 1.7v
im gona post pictures on the bios later


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> hey guy just finished my 24hour prime95 test with success no error did a IBT 10 passes with no warnings here is the prime95 screen shut
> temps are 66 Celsius( 150 F ) highest for 24hours
> vcore is set at 1.225v
> bclk 100x44
> cpu pll 1.7v
> im gona post pictures on the bios later


Nice work mate,

Please post those Bios pics when you get the chance.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hey guys, I just got the SABERTOOTH BEAST yesterday, assembled it. Got a few question that i hope you guys would help me with.
> OC temp
> 1) My I5 2500K processor is overclocked @ 4.5ghz, V: 1.3. I am getting around 33C on idle and 68C (with prime95) with my H100 cooler, ambient is around 24 - 26C. Is it normal???
> MOBO mini Fan
> 2) How do you guys adjust the mini fan in your MOBO? 1 intake and 1 exhuast or???
> Attaching case fan to MOBO
> 3) I am currently using a CM Storm Trooper case and right now i am attaching my bottom(1) and front(2) intake fan to the front panel. My H100 radiator fan(2) to the pump and i had change the fan to CM excalibur, rear exhuast is currently attached to the MOBO.
> Question is, should i change the fan connection directly to the MOBO so that i can control the fan speed using Fan Xpert II because right now it seems like my fan is not running at their full potential.
> Any other suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
> Will post pic of my rig soon!!!


Anyone can help me with my question???


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Anyone can help me with my question???


Just use Thermal Radar that comes with the CD software.


----------



## LibNate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> hey guy just finished my 24hour prime95 test with success no error did a IBT 10 passes with no warnings here is the prime95 screen shut
> temps are 66 Celsius( 150 F ) highest for 24hours
> vcore is set at 1.225v
> bclk 100x44
> cpu pll 1.7v
> im gona post pictures on the bios later


Definitely post some BIOS screen shots. I did a test run with similar settings on my 3770K using an H100 to cool. My temps spiked into the 90s C (ambient is ~78 F) almost immediately, so I stopped the test... Either I missed a setting, or the cooler isn't seated properly.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Anyone can help me with my question???


your Oc temp with a H100 and your current ambient look normal. Asus suggest Both mini fans as intake but that is subjective. As for fan rpm control try what hurtn suggested.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Just use Thermal Radar that comes with the CD software.


I believe we can't adjust the fan speed using Thermal radar.


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> I believe we can't adjust the fan speed using Thermal radar.


Of course you can.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> I believe we can't adjust the fan speed using Thermal radar.


. There's no manual profile in thermal radar??


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> . There's no manual profile in thermal radar??


Again, of course there is.


----------



## chaozzzsg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> . There's no manual profile in thermal radar??


LOL!!! My bad, you can indeed change the speed in Thermal Radar. Guess I will be plugging all my fans into the MOBO so that I can have total control over the speed.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I think this looks good Naked


I love it!
What did you use to turn the southbridge black?
Nice touch









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wakakuu*
> 
> so i guess im not possitive this is an mobo error,, should i return both the cpu and mobo?


Include the ram too.
In fact you could try booting with a different set of ram if available before rma, just to be sure it's not a memory error.

*@chaozzzsg* mate perfectly normal and fine temps for your 4.5 OC.
The assist fans come as an extra, not obligatory to install them.
I only have the one in the back installed as an intake and also installed the 120" one in the back of the case as intake too.
Thermal radar's silent option isn't silent enough just set your own profile and they'll be as silent as you want them to be.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> LOL!!! My bad, you can indeed change the speed in Thermal Radar. Guess I will be plugging all my fans into the MOBO so that I can have total control over the speed.


Problem Solved


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> I love it!
> What did you use to turn the southbridge black?
> Nice touch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Include the ram too.
> In fact you could try booting with a different set of ram if available before rma, just to be sure it's not a memory error.
> *@chaozzzsg* mate perfectly normal and fine temps for your 4.5 OC.
> The assist fans come as an extra, not obligatory to install them.
> I only have the one in the back installed as an intake and also installed the 120" one in the back of the case as intake too.
> Thermal radar's silent option isn't silent enough just set your own profile and they'll be as silent as you want them to be.


Thank you. I used a product from Krylon called Ultra-Flat Camouflage:thumb:


----------



## Bobmitch

Everyone....

Another new bios today 1403

http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=30&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip

Release notes

1. Improve Improve system stability.
2. Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
4. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

Beware...bootup spash screen is changed...Thought I did something wrong after the flash...all good...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Everyone....
> Another new bios today 1403
> http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=30&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip
> Release notes
> 1. Improve Improve system stability.
> 2. Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
> 4. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> Beware...bootup spash screen is changed...Thought I did something wrong after the flash...all good...


Wow .. They are pumping these things out quick. Thanks for the heads up:thumb:
That makes 3 since I've owned the board and I don't even have it Running


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bar81*
> 
> I think it looks better and runs cooler. That's the way I have it in my rig.


I wish I could find it again but tests were run on one review I saw that definitively showed that it runs 2-3C cooler with the armor on.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> I wish I could find it again but tests were run on one review I saw that definitively showed that it runs 2-3C cooler with the armor on.


I have quite a lot of airflow in the case that it will be installed so yes it would be interesting to find out what my temps are versus others at same ambient and Armor on. Wonder if they were testing in a low flow case? I know the armor and mini fans are suppose to help in a high ambient low air flow situation.


----------



## Bar81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> I wish I could find it again but tests were run on one review I saw that definitively showed that it runs 2-3C cooler with the armor on.


Maybe if you are using the mini-fans, but I run a quiet system so no such fans for me.


----------



## Chillie

Heys guys. I know my posts are probably getting old. But I thought let you know that I was not able to fix my issue with the mobo. The system was never able to do a simple a windows restart. When i would do a windows restart it would not output and video. Same issue when restarting directly from the bios.....Im not sure what the problem is with the system! I have been fighting with the mobo for the past few days. My only conclusion is that the mobo was defective. SOOOO i will be going to the store today returning it along with my CPU and starting fresh with a new Sabertooth z77. Hopefully this is the problem.


----------



## Blatsz32

k gang, notice Wakkakus beautiful pin orientation, all the pins flow in their designed direction. Notice mine look like my dog<< chewed my cpu up? That, I belive, is from overtighting the cpublock...so becareful gang, especially if you find yourself changing out you TIM often.

I deduce that once the pressure is released off the cooler/block, the minute amount of lift the cpu gets, releases the pins to conform to it's natural state...when you reapply pressure by putting on cooling solution, if you overtighten I think you smush pins..and smushed pins are not happy pins. Look at the top left corner of the socket..smushed. I can't explain how or why it looks like some pins aren't even pressent. The bottom area seems to be missing pins







..oh the humanity!!!!!1


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Heys guys. I know my posts are probably getting old. But I thought let you know that I was not able to fix my issue with the mobo. The system was never able to do a simple a windows restart. When i would do a windows restart it would not output and video. Same issue when restarting directly from the bios.....Im not sure what the problem is with the system! I have been fighting with the mobo for the past few days. My only conclusion is that the mobo was defective. SOOOO i will be going to the store today returning it along with my CPU and starting fresh with a new Sabertooth z77. Hopefully this is the problem.


The upside to this is that you can return to whatever store and not deal with RMA.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*


Wow.. Easy Big Fella.. More Finesse. That is a BUMMER


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> When i would do a windows restart it would not output and video. Same issue when restarting directly from the bios....


Do you use a discrete gpu or do use the intel one?
What have you set in bios as your primary video output device?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Everyone....
> Another new bios today 1403
> http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=30&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip
> Release notes
> 1. Improve Improve system stability.
> 2. Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
> 3. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
> 4. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
> Beware...bootup spash screen is changed...Thought I did something wrong after the flash...all good...


Just updated thanks...I like the new splash screen with just a small logo, I may actually leave it enabled.


----------



## Outcasst

Could anybody post a photo of the new splash?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Could anybody post a photo of the new splash?


Its just a black screen with a small Tuf Inside logo in the center.


----------



## lzepplin01

I will try the new BIOS today, but I disable the splash screen for faster boot, then reduce the wait time from 5 to 3 seconds (this option appears when you disable splash). Makes for a really quick boot time with an SSD. Also, disabling the windows loading screen helps boot faster.

Blatsz sorry to hear that man, RMA is no fun. Will asus RMA a pin issue?

Will try changing LLC to very high today and also adjusting the offset. Since my vcore on auto is spiking to 1.4, I'm thinking I will set the offset to -0.05 and work my way down from there. Thanks for the help javaneze!!
System perfectly stable at 4.7 ghz for the moment, and with high loads it doesn't get over 67c and hasn't crashed at all in 3 days. In intel IBT the temps will very briefly spike into the low 90s, though this is at an auto VCore of 1.4 and I think 4.7 is doable with much less voltage. I will fiddle with offset and try to get a 4.8 OC this afternoon on lower voltages.


----------



## lawlbringer

New BIOS has fixed my USB device issue(Razer Naga not always being detected.) Rebooted several times so far and the software loads detecting it just fine.

Oh, and my front USB ports seem to not play nice with my 1TB Toshiba 3.0 external...Could it be because my cables are smushed behind the motherboard? What else could it be? I'm literally getting 600kb/sec writes on the front 3.0 ports, but the back ports are fine...USB flash devices work fine though, it's really weird.

The new logo is also pretty slick, and for those of us with Nvidia cards it's great since it hides the outer edge of the non-stretched screen.


----------



## Blatsz32

I noticed when I plugged in the front usb that it wasn't a snug fit. make sure that thing is plugged in and your pins are alighned. Also, thats the Asmedia 3.0 correct? Have you updated the drivers? Or wait, is that the intel...eitherway check to make sure its snug.

""Originally Posted by unimatrixzero

If you look.. All of the Bends go in ths same direction. That is an indication of the CPU being mounted while it was in the upright position. Gravity dropped the CPU down some and when you initially tightened it, the CPU went back up into place and bent the the Contacts up. It could happen to any of us. Looks like you will have to get a new board.. one of those looks broken. That is terrible man.. I am so sorry."

That was said about my cpu socket by the CM Storm trooper forum leader..he is right, that is how I installed my cpu. So moral of the story, if you install your CPU upright be careful, gravity is a b***h.

On the brighter side, I've ordered a new sabertooth from Microcenter..if any issues arise i have a store close by that I can return it to and exchange it...


----------



## lzepplin01

I like the new BIOS splash screen, much better than the initial one. The new BIOS has certainly improved compatibility with my Rosewill Card reader with 3 USB ports on it. It used to hang boots unless I disabled Legacy and now that issue seems to be resolved.

Edit: Well, this is the upper limit of my CPU. 50 blue screens. So close!



The voltage is wayyyy too high (obviously) and the temps hit mid-90s at this speed. It's completely stable, though, and will run IBT at Very High with no problems. I'm going to work on bringing down the offset and see if this can be stable at 49.


----------



## Piloten

Why when I change the offset voltage setting on this board for my processor does it not lower the load voltage when stress testing? I've changed it to offset from 0.1V to 0.05V and the load voltage according to CPU-Z is the same. Someone posted an article for me to read about it a dozen or so pages ago but maybe I am not understanding it properly.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piloten*
> 
> Why when I change the offset voltage setting on this board for my processor does it not lower the load voltage when stress testing? I've changed it to offset from 0.1V to 0.05V and the load voltage according to CPU-Z is the same. Someone posted an article for me to read about it a dozen or so pages ago but maybe I am not understanding it properly.


If you want to lower the voltage using offset you have to change to a - offset not a + offset keep in mind this will also lower your idle volts

The caveat of Offset Mode is that the full load voltage the processor will request under load
is impossible to predict without loading the processor fully. The base level of voltage used
will increase in accordance with the CPU multiplier ratio. It is therefore best to start with a
low multiplier ratio and work upwards in 1X steps while checking for stability at each
increase. Enter the OS, load the CPU and check CPU-Z to check the voltage the CPU
requests from the buck controller. If the level of voltage requested is very high, then you can
reduce the full load voltage by applying a negative offset in UEFI. For example, if our full
load voltage at 45X CPU multiplier ratio happened to be 1.40V, we could reduce that to
1.35V by applying a 0.05V negative offset in UEFI.


----------



## lzepplin01

Well it looks like I can't bring down the offset even a single notch - wont boot. I'm thinking of leaving the mult at 49 though since its 100% stable and temperatures haven't been above 75 (converting flac to mp3 and playing gta IV). They only hit 90s in IBT and I dont think I can really ever fully saturate all 4 cores like that. VCore idles less than 1v (27-35c) and under heavy gaming gets to 1.4 (65-75 max).
Any thoughts?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Well it looks like I can't bring down the offset even a single notch - wont boot. I'm thinking of leaving the mult at 49 though since its 100% stable and temperatures haven't been above 75 (converting flac to mp3 and playing gta IV). They only hit 90s in IBT and I dont think I can really ever fully saturate all 4 cores like that. VCore idles less than 1v (27-35c) and under heavy gaming gets to 1.4 (65-75 max).
> Any thoughts?


and your LLC is set at?

What exactly are you trying to acheive. your already at the upper end of that chip with a H80 to boot. id say your multiplier is pretty impressive already.. pushing past 4.6 on 3570k brings with it substantial volt increase and at 4.9 1.4v whats wrong with that


----------



## skiline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> hey guy just finished my 24hour prime95 test with success no error did a IBT 10 passes with no warnings here is the prime95 screen shut
> temps are 66 Celsius( 150 F ) highest for 24hours
> vcore is set at 1.225v
> bclk 100x44
> cpu pll 1.7v
> im gona post pictures on the bios later


ok here are my bios screen shuts and a picture i took after doing 12 hours of prime95 yesterday i woul like to mention that i use a antec kulher 920 for the cpu

vcore stays at 1.208v for almost all the test the room temp was 28 Celsius


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> and your LLC is set at?
> What exactly are you trying to acheive. your already at the upper end of that chip with a H80 to boot. id say your multiplier is pretty impressive already.. pushing past 4.6 on 3570k brings with it substantial volt increase and at 4.9 1.4v whats wrong with that


Yeah that's what I mean. I guess I was wondering if I should bring the mult down a few notches. My goal is max safe clock speed, so I was wondering if the forum thought my current setup was safe.
LLC is very high.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> Yeah that's what I mean. I guess I was wondering if I should bring the mult down a few notches.
> LLC is very high.


Now that you have explored the upper end of it ..Its all about what your comfortable with while remaining 100% stable.. I'd say try knocking your multi to 47 and see what that full load volts are at. that is if you are not wanting 1.4v and the heat produced from that voltage. Its a nice overclock for that H80


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> ok here are my bios screen shuts and a picture i took after doing 12 hours of prime95 yesterday i woul like to mention that i use a antec kulher 920 for the cpu
> vcore stays at 1.208v for almost all the test the room temp was 28 Celsius


Hot room..Ambient 28c!


----------



## Chillie

Ok I got my new sabertooth z77 mobo!!!! everything is working great now!!!! i must of had a faulty mobo! Ill post pics hopefully later tonight along with screenshot of what I'm running at!:thumb!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Ok I got my new sabertooth z77 mobo!!!! everything is working great now!!!! i must of had a faulty mobo! Ill post pics hopefully later tonight along with screenshot of what I'm running at!:thumb!


Awesome. glad it worked out


----------



## Fencer55

I just built a new computer. First two Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboards were bad and had to be RMA'd. So I upgraded to the Z77 Sabertooth thinking I might have better luck with the top of the line board. The 2nd PCIe card slot went bad as soon as I got it home. Had to RMA that one, so now I"ve got Asus motherboard number 4 and its working. I'd be happy but there is another issue that's pissing me off.

My Asus Sabertooth Z77 takes over 60 seconds to post! That's unacceptable! I have an SSD boot drive and windows loads in 15 seconds to desktop and is usable, but I have to wait over a minute for the board to post.

Can anyone tell me if there is a fix for this issue? I've always loved Asus, but after this build, I may never use them again, its been a nightmare.
.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> I will try the new BIOS today, but I disable the splash screen for faster boot, then reduce the wait time from 5 to 3 seconds (this option appears when you disable splash). Makes for a really quick boot time with an SSD. Also, disabling the windows loading screen helps boot faster.
> Blatsz sorry to hear that man, RMA is no fun. Will asus RMA a pin issue?
> Will try changing LLC to very high today and also adjusting the offset. Since my vcore on auto is spiking to 1.4, I'm thinking I will set the offset to -0.05 and work my way down from there. Thanks for the help javaneze!!
> System perfectly stable at 4.7 ghz for the moment, and with high loads it doesn't get over 67c and hasn't crashed at all in 3 days. In intel IBT the temps will very briefly spike into the low 90s, though this is at an auto VCore of 1.4 and I think 4.7 is doable with much less voltage. I will fiddle with offset and try to get a 4.8 OC this afternoon on lower voltages.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fencer55*
> 
> I just built a new computer. First two Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboards were bad and had to be RMA'd. So I upgraded to the Z77 Sabertooth thinking I might have better luck with the top of the line board. The 2nd PCIe card slot went bad as soon as I got it home. Had to RMA that one, so now I"ve got Asus motherboard number 4 and its working. I'd be happy but there is another issue that's pissing me off.
> My Asus Sabertooth Z77 takes over 60 seconds to post! That's unacceptable! I have an SSD boot drive and windows loads in 15 seconds to desktop and is usable, but I have to wait over a minute for the board to post.
> Can anyone tell me if there is a fix for this issue? I've always loved Asus, but after this build, I may never use them again, its been a nightmare.
> .


Talked about here.. have you tried this yet and have you updated to latest bios? And i agree with you,,new products always have new problems.. But i have come to expect that from any manufacturer.. I dont know of any single one with a perfect record.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fencer55*
> 
> I just built a new computer. First two Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboards were bad and had to be RMA'd. So I upgraded to the Z77 Sabertooth thinking I might have better luck with the top of the line board. The 2nd PCIe card slot went bad as soon as I got it home. Had to RMA that one, so now I"ve got Asus motherboard number 4 and its working. I'd be happy but there is another issue that's pissing me off.
> My Asus Sabertooth Z77 takes over 60 seconds to post! That's unacceptable! I have an SSD boot drive and windows loads in 15 seconds to desktop and is usable, but I have to wait over a minute for the board to post.
> Can anyone tell me if there is a fix for this issue? I've always loved Asus, but after this build, I may never use them again, its been a nightmare.
> .


What do you have plugged into the USB headers? My saber did that as well with a card reader. You can confirm this by unplugging all of the things in USB headers and inserting them one at a time and rebooting. If that's the problem, that is!! Try updating to the latest bios and see if that helps. Try disabling legacy support if you find that to be the problem still after updating the bios.

Where, exactly, does it hang?

Hopefully that helps.


----------



## Augusto

I'm new here so hello everybody!
I got my Sabertooth Z77 a week ago, since my old P8P67 has passed away.
I'm still having my Core i7 2600k and G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 1.25v
At first, after building the system, I turner on the comp and everything seemed to be fine so I started to install all drivers for the new mobo.
After a few reboots needed by driver installation, the computer started to randomly freeze.
I decided to run prime95 to test system stability and I got an instant freeze and after turning off and on again, the system won't post anymore, having the cpu red led on.
I thought the cpu was damaged so I got a G530 and after installing it I started to get dram red led and I had to move the 2 dimms to B1 and B2, no other combination would let the computer post.
Today I updated the bios with the 1403 version and for my surprise, dualchannel is working perfectly now, so I decided to give it a second try to my 2600k with the new bios and the computer posted! and I made it to the windows desktop, but only for 10 minutes till it got freeze and never posted again having the red cpu led on.
Btw, my 2600k was tested in a different mobo and it's working.

Could it be that 2600k + SB z77 + F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 is a bad combination?

Any help is welcomed and sorry for my bad english + the text wall


----------



## lzepplin01

There have been a few people to post about slow start up speeds with an SSD drive. I have a few recommendations for you if you are looking for super fast boot up speeds and have a Sabertooth Z77.

1.) Go into the Advanced Setting of the BIOS. Go to the Boot menu, and scroll down to Full Screen Logo. Disable this.

2.) When you do, an option will appear (the name of which I can't remember), but it will have something to do with a wait time and it is 5 seconds by default. Change this to three. I have found three seconds is still plenty of time to hit delete to get into the Bios.

3.) This one will disable the windows splash screen displayed before entering your password to get into windows.
1 - Click on the Start Menu.
2 - Click on Control Panel.
3 - Click on System and Security.
4 - Click on Administrative Tools.
5 - Double click on System Configuration.
6 - Click on the Boot tab.
7 -- Check the box called No GUI Boot

Here is a link to some other things you can do to perhaps increase the performance of the SSD:
http://www.tech-forums.net/pc/f128/ssd-tweak-guide-236563/

Of course, make sure the firmware on your SSD is the latest and make sure all of your drivers and BIOSes are up to date.
And be careful, especially if you decide to do some of the tweaks that involve registry editing!!!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> There have been a few people to post about slow start up speeds with an SSD drive. I have a few recommendations for you if you are looking for super fast boot up speeds and have a Sabertooth Z77.
> 1.) Go into the Advanced Setting of the BIOS. Go to the Boot menu, and scroll down to Full Screen Logo. Disable this.
> 2.) When you do, an option will appear (the name of which I can't remember), but it will have something to do with a wait time and it is 5 seconds by default. Change this to three. I have found three seconds is still plenty of time to hit delete to get into the Bios.
> 3.) This one will disable the windows splash screen displayed before entering your password to get into windows.
> 1 - Click on the Start Menu.
> 2 - Click on Control Panel.
> 3 - Click on System and Security.
> 4 - Click on Administrative Tools.
> 5 - Double click on System Configuration.
> 6 - Click on the Boot tab.
> 7 -- Check the box called No GUI Boot
> Here is a link to some other things you can do to perhaps increase the performance of the SSD:
> http://www.tech-forums.net/pc/f128/ssd-tweak-guide-236563/
> Of course, make sure the firmware on your SSD is the latest and make sure all of your drivers and BIOSes are up to date.
> And be careful, especially if you decide to do some of the tweaks that involve registry editing!!!


Good Info:thumb:


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> I'm new here so hello everybody!
> I got my Sabertooth Z77 a week ago, since my old P8P67 has passed away.
> I'm still having my Core i7 2600k and G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 1.25v
> At first, after building the system, I turner on the comp and everything seemed to be fine so I started to install all drivers for the new mobo.
> After a few reboots needed by driver installation, the computer started to randomly freeze.
> I decided to run prime95 to test system stability and I got an instant freeze and after turning off and on again, the system won't post anymore, having the cpu red led on.
> I thought the cpu was damaged so I got a G530 and after installing it I started to get dram red led and *I had to move the 2 dimms to B1 and B2*, no other combination would let the computer post.
> Today I updated the bios with the 1403 version and for my surprise, dualchannel is working perfectly now, so I decided to give it a second try to my 2600k with the new bios and the computer posted! and I made it to the windows desktop, but only for 10 minutes till it got freeze and never posted again having the red cpu led on.
> Btw, my 2600k was tested in a different mobo and it's working.
> Could it be that 2600k + SB z77 + F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 is a bad combination?
> Any help is welcomed and sorry for my bad english + the text wall


Have you used them in a2 and b2, thats where they should be?


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fencer55*
> 
> I just built a new computer. First two Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboards were bad and had to be RMA'd. So I upgraded to the Z77 Sabertooth thinking I might have better luck with the top of the line board. The 2nd PCIe card slot went bad as soon as I got it home. Had to RMA that one, so now I"ve got Asus motherboard number 4 and its working. I'd be happy but there is another issue that's pissing me off.
> My Asus Sabertooth Z77 takes over 60 seconds to post! That's unacceptable! I have an SSD boot drive and windows loads in 15 seconds to desktop and is usable, but I have to wait over a minute for the board to post.
> Can anyone tell me if there is a fix for this issue? I've always loved Asus, but after this build, I may never use them again, its been a nightmare.
> .


Hey man I was literally just in your shoes but for different reasons haha long story. But if you have the realtek HD audio software installed that seems to slow down your boot by 20-35sec (or so ive read). I uninstalled it on my system because i was having the same problem and it did help out a lot actually(idk that it was a 20-30sec reduction though)! its worth a try if your using the realtek stuff. hope this helps man! However FYI I've had this mobo for a few days total this is my second one I swapped my defective one today for a new one.....my current sabertooth is only a few hours old. Once you get this board running right its pretty damn SICK! or my my opinion at least! let us know what happens.







Also make sure your sata HDD is plugged into the proper SATA ports on the mobo!!!


----------



## Hanoverfist

I had to move the 2 dimms to B1 and B2, no other combination would let the computer post.

Interesting


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Have you used them in a2 and b2, thats where they should be?


Yes, they are in A2 and B2 now and working like a charm.

/edit: it's working in A2 and B2 after bios update to the 1403 version, before that, only B1 and B2 being populated would let it post.


----------



## Saurk66

Ok, finally my build is complete. Check it...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Ok, finally my build is complete. Check it...


It's soooo Purtty:thumb:Nice Job.


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Ok, finally my build is complete. Check it...


Looks really nice man!!!


----------



## LibNate

Nice looking build, Saurk66.


----------



## javaneze

Looking good Saurk66!

Added a couple of red stickers to spice up the sabertooth &my red/black theme.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Looking good Saurk66!
> Added a couple of red stickers to spice up the sabertooth &my red/black theme.


Nice and Clean


----------



## SirSac

I really want a Sabertooth z77 for the build I will be doing in 2 weeks. I have one important question to pose to all those who own one first:

Due to the case that I will be using for my build, Tt Spedo (got for free), and wanting to mount an h100 to the back 2x 120mm case fans, I will need to know the height of the back most part of the motherboard; where the armor is its tallest (the height of the back panel to the top of the armor). It is my fear that the armor may get in the way of the back fans/ h100 rad. If someone would please measure their sabertooth z77 and let me know the exact height so I can know for sure.

As this is an older full tower case, before h100 and sabertooth z77, it is next to impossible to find this information and I have been trying for 1-2 weeks. I want to join the club!!







.

Again I would like to know the height from the base of the board to the top of the armor at the back where all the plugs are. (I suppose it's only the height when the mobo is sitting flat with CPU socket facing up.)

Thank you!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirSac*
> 
> I really want a Sabertooth z77 for the build I will be doing in 2 weeks. I have one important question to pose to all those who own one first:
> Due to the case that I will be using for my build, Tt Spedo (got for free), and wanting to mount an h100 to the back 2x 120mm case fans, I will need to know the height of the back most part of the motherboard; where the armor is its tallest (the height of the back panel to the top of the armor). It is my fear that the armor may get in the way of the back fans/ h100 rad. If someone would please measure their sabertooth z77 and let me know the exact height so I can know for sure.
> As this is an older full tower case, before h100 and sabertooth z77, it is next to impossible to find this information and I have been trying for 1-2 weeks. I want to join the club!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Again I would like to know the height from the base of the board to the top of the armor at the back where all the plugs are. (I suppose it's only the height when the mobo is sitting flat with CPU socket facing up.)
> Thank you!


here you go 45mm +/- 1mm


----------



## SirSac

Thank you very much!

Fast reply









Looks like I will be joining the club as well! I will post back my pics once built in 2 or so weeks.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirSac*
> 
> I really want a Sabertooth z77 for the build I will be doing in 2 weeks. I have one important question to pose to all those who own one first:
> Due to the case that I will be using for my build, Tt Spedo (got for free), and wanting to mount an h100 to the back 2x 120mm case fans, I will need to know the height of the back most part of the motherboard; where the armor is its tallest (the height of the back panel to the top of the armor). It is my fear that the armor may get in the way of the back fans/ h100 rad. If someone would please measure their sabertooth z77 and let me know the exact height so I can know for sure.
> As this is an older full tower case, before h100 and sabertooth z77, it is next to impossible to find this information and I have been trying for 1-2 weeks. I want to join the club!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Again I would like to know the height from the base of the board to the top of the armor at the back where all the plugs are. (I suppose it's only the height when the mobo is sitting flat with CPU socket facing up.)
> Thank you!


This may not answer question right away. but i literally just finished mounting a h100 with my Sabertooth system. the CPU cooler piece itself fit fine over the CPU, however my case was a a tight fit for the radiator and fans...ill post pics hopefully so you can get a better idea of what i mean. Also my case is a antec 25.......not the best case for making a factory looking mount without some custom work.... this cooler is sick FYI!


----------



## Hanoverfist

@chillie...The small 35mm fans that came with your board....are they both 3 hole mount??? Both of mine are and the surface mount under the cpu socket looks funny with only 3 screws in it. Just curious how many shipped without the 4 hole fan shown in the manual.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Wont mounting an H100 on the rear block the video card?


----------



## Chillie

heres the CPU.


here is my radiator setup. it has four fans attached to it, so there is even airflow despite the radiator being internal/at the bottom of the case. The zip ties are temporary they are ugly as hell! i just need to figure out a better mounting system.

this cooler made such a drastic improvement on my temps especially @ overclocks past 4.5.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Wont mounting an H100 on the rear block the video card?


Theres a shot of a Speedo


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Theres a shot of a Speedo


Ahhh OK, nice looking case.


----------



## SirSac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Ahhh OK, nice looking case.


It is a nice case, and has all the specs wanted. Two things to be mentioned though:

1. Not made for h100: push/pull on the back will block the side panel 230mm fan. Option is to remove the side fan, or remove the bottom fan in push/pull.
2. All the plastic parts are cheap and break very very very easily. This includes the parts that fix the top of the case in place as well as the handle for the side panel and the 'handles' for the drive bays. In fact, I broke the handle for the side panel the first time I touched it, and all I did was move it in the direction required to open the door.

Besides these points, cable management is a breeze and airflow is all thought out. It's like a HAF X but before they decided to make it 'ALL' premium.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirSac*
> 
> It is a nice case, and has all the specs wanted. Two things to be mentioned though:
> 1. Not made for h100: push/pull on the back will block the side panel 230mm fan. Option is to remove the side fan, or remove the bottom fan in push/pull.
> 2. All the plastic parts are cheap and break very very very easily. This includes the parts that fix the top of the case in place as well as the handle for the side panel and the 'handles' for the drive bays. In fact, I broke the handle for the side panel the first time I touched it, and all I did was move it in the direction required to open the door.
> Besides these points, cable management is a breeze and airflow is all thought out. It's like a HAF X but before they decided to make it 'ALL' premium.


Do you have your heart set on push/pull? Are you in love with the Side panel fan? Personally, Side panel fans annoy me. And personally i would push /pull because of the performance gain. I wouldn't split up the fan bank either just to accommodate a side panel fan. My vote, dump the side panel fan. Unless you get creative and mount the rad somewhere else. This guy has some good pics of speedo stripped down. might give you some ideas maybe not. Good luck:thumb:

http://www.overclock.net/t/916929/thermaltake-speedo-redo-black-and-red

Oh how much hardware are you going to have inside is another factor..like graphics cards pouring heat into the case...if you have high case temps then maybe you will need to keep the side panel as an intake..Things to think about.. and maybe just run push on the rad. What mounts are available in the roof ?


----------



## SheepSide

Hey guys, my first post I just need to know badly will this wireless adapter work with my Sabertooth z77 mother board? http://www.pcforce.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=1977 Cheers no advertising intended.


----------



## lilj

Sorry wrong topic, posting pics today


----------



## TigerDS

Can anyone please tell me which type of display port can be used on a Sabertooth Z77.
I've been trying to connect with a DVI displayport connector, but I don't seem to get any image...
I'm trying to remove my old Videocard, as I think it's not fitted for Virtu MVP.

Therefor I was thinking of using the onboard video adapter. (if there is any)

My current setup is :

MB : Asus Sabertooth Z77
CPU : Intel Core I7 3770K
Cooler : Corsair H60
Video : Nvidea GTX260
MEM : Corsair 2x4GB, DDR3, PC12800, CL8, Vengeance

BTW, where can I find any overclock templates? I've noticed you can import and export them in the BIOS.

Thanks..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SheepSide*
> 
> Hey guys, my first post I just need to know badly will this wireless adapter work with my Sabertooth z77 mother board? http://www.pcforce.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=1977 Cheers no advertising intended.


As long as you have a wireless router i do not see any reason it would not work. There are 3 available PCIe x1 ports on this board that will accept that card.


----------



## Chillie

To: TigerDS

Try setting the the preferred gpu output to the PCIE slot in the bios.....also try setting the viru MVP off that is geared more towards sandy bridge processors, this is done in the bios as well.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> Can anyone please tell me which type of display port can be used on a Sabertooth Z77.
> I've been trying to connect with a DVI displayport connector, but I don't seem to get any image...
> I'm trying to remove my old Videocard, as I think it's not fitted for Virtu MVP.
> Therefor I was thinking of using the onboard video adapter. (if there is any)
> My current setup is :
> MB : Asus Sabertooth Z77
> CPU : Intel Core I7 3770K
> Cooler : Corsair H60
> Video : Nvidea GTX260
> MEM : Corsair 2x4GB, DDR3, PC12800, CL8, Vengeance
> BTW, where can I find any overclock templates? I've noticed you can import and export them in the BIOS.
> Thanks..


I would not install virtu MVP at this time is still far from stable with an ivy bridge and discrete graphics. Disable any feature to use your onboard cpu graphics and just run that gtx 260. Unless you want to just use your 3770k graphics. Your discrete card does not look supported by virtu mvp. Page 5-12 in manual.








sorry i didn't read that to well. pg 2-39 hdmi or display port allows for you to use your cpu for display.. And your Monitor has what type of inputs on it?


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> Can anyone please tell me which type of display port can be used on a Sabertooth Z77.
> I've been trying to connect with a DVI displayport connector, but I don't seem to get any image...
> I'm trying to remove my old Videocard, as I think it's not fitted for Virtu MVP.
> Therefor I was thinking of using the onboard video adapter. (if there is any)
> My current setup is :
> MB : Asus Sabertooth Z77
> CPU : Intel Core I7 3770K
> Cooler : Corsair H60
> Video : Nvidea GTX260
> MEM : Corsair 2x4GB, DDR3, PC12800, CL8, Vengeance
> BTW, where can I find any overclock templates? I've noticed you can import and export them in the BIOS.
> Thanks..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I would not install virtu MVP at this time is still far from stable with an ivy bridge and discrete graphics. Disable any feature to use your onboard cpu graphics and just run that gtx 260. Unless you want to just use your 3770k graphics. Your discrete card does not look supported by virtu mvp. Page 5-12 in manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry i didnt read that to well. pg 2-39 hdmi or display port.. And your Monitor is?


I had this same issue a week ago also in addition to doing the things hanoverfist and I recommended, make sure that you have the most current drivers from Nvidia. Just remember if you think you changed around to many settings in the bios you can reset them to the default settings with the press of one of the F keys....bottom right hand corner of the bios will tell you which F key does what. And in the very worst scenario a fresh start usually does the trick by resetting the cmos (worst case).

*important question:*Is the system booting past the mobo logo screens and getting the windows logo screen then going black, and then your monitor says "no signal" or "no input"???? Also in many cases for me the computers hardware would turn on but no video output....sometimes it took 5x of turning the psu off then on to receive video output. I had this issue. I replaced my mobo with a new one....it fixed the problem!! However i had other problems that flagged my previous mobo as defective.


----------



## Hanoverfist

I see a a lot of questions about overclocking an ivy bridge chip in here and just had a read thru of this. So in case you are wondering and have not seen this have a read thru.. It is a gigabyte uefi bios but translates well to what uefi settings actually do. And yes LN2 is Awesome.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

Also more info herehttp://www.overclock.net/t/1248928/asus-z77-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-6-25

UEFI tuning guide herehttp://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


----------



## Fencer55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fencer55*
> 
> I just built a new computer. First two Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboards were bad and had to be RMA'd. So I upgraded to the Z77 Sabertooth thinking I might have better luck with the top of the line board. The 2nd PCIe card slot went bad as soon as I got it home. Had to RMA that one, so now I"ve got Asus motherboard number 4 and its working. I'd be happy but there is another issue that's pissing me off.
> My Asus Sabertooth Z77 takes over 60 seconds to post! That's unacceptable! I have an SSD boot drive and windows loads in 15 seconds to desktop and is usable, but I have to wait over a minute for the board to post.
> Can anyone tell me if there is a fix for this issue? I've always loved Asus, but after this build, I may never use them again, its been a nightmare.
> .


I flashed my bios with the new 1406 version and all my problems are solved. YAY! I now have an awesome system, AND, I forgive Asus for 3 bad mobos in a row, because when they work, they kick-ass! I now have an i5 3570K that overclocks from 3.4 to 4.6 without any heat issues whatsoever. I can run AIDA64 for 24 hours wihtout my temps exceeding the 70 dgrs celsius mark. My system now boots to desktop in 20 seconds and is usable immediately upon desktop display. The overclocking gods have smiled upon me. Some people want 4.8 ghz, but honestly, you won't notice the difference in everyday use. 4.6 ghz is very respectable for air cooling and anyone with a sound mind will be extremely happy with that result.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fencer55*
> 
> I flashed my bios with the new 1406 version and all my problems are solved. YAY! I now have an awesome system, AND, I forgive Asus for 3 bad mobos in a row, because when they work, they kick-ass! I now have an i5 3570K that overclocks from 3.4 to 4.6 without any heat issues whatsoever. I can run AIDA64 for 24 hours wihtout my temps exceeding the 70 dgrs celsius mark. My system now boots to desktop in 20 seconds and is usable immediately upon desktop display. The overclocking gods have smiled upon me. Some people want 4.8 ghz, but honestly, you won't notice the difference in everyday use. 4.6 ghz is very respectable for air cooling and anyone with a sound mind will be extremely happy with that result.


In my experience 4.6 with air cooling on a 3570k is a great achievement especially with temps like yours







also not all chips are created equal in the sense of over clocking ability. When I swapped my defective sabertooth I also swapped my CPU (3570k) that particular chip could not go past 4.5ghz. My current CPU has reached 4.8ghz with ease!


----------



## lzepplin01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fencer55*
> 
> I flashed my bios with the new 1406 version and all my problems are solved. YAY! I now have an awesome system, AND, I forgive Asus for 3 bad mobos in a row, because when they work, they kick-ass! I now have an i5 3570K that overclocks from 3.4 to 4.6 without any heat issues whatsoever. I can run AIDA64 for 24 hours wihtout my temps exceeding the 70 dgrs celsius mark. My system now boots to desktop in 20 seconds and is usable immediately upon desktop display. The overclocking gods have smiled upon me. Some people want 4.8 ghz, but honestly, you won't notice the difference in everyday use. 4.6 ghz is very respectable for air cooling and anyone with a sound mind will be extremely happy with that result.


That's a great overclock. I couldn't hit 4.6 with my air cooler without unacceptable temperatures.


----------



## SirSac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Do you have your heart set on push/pull? Are you in love with the Side panel fan? Personally, Side panel fans annoy me. And personally i would push /pull because of the performance gain. I wouldn't split up the fan bank either just to accommodate a side panel fan. My vote, dump the side panel fan. Unless you get creative and mount the rad somewhere else.


I do not really have my heart set on push/pull to the point where I do not want to investigate the other options, but I do want it.

Most people have been saying that I should dump the side fan, but my thought is that dumping a side panel 23cm fan to fit an extra 12cm fan seems funny. More so knowing that this case has only 1x 14cm front intake. May be looking to mod the case to add another 14cm to the front, like was done in the thread you posted.
Quote:


> Oh how much hardware are you going to have inside is another factor..like graphics cards pouring heat into the case...if you have high case temps then maybe you will need to keep the side panel as an intake..Things to think about.. and maybe just run push on the rad. What mounts are available in the roof ?


I will have a 670dc2 in there, so yes hardware, but does not run that hot. I do plan on OCing both CPU and GPU, however.

The top of the case mounts another 23cm fan and has the mountings to replace this fan with a 14cm or 12cm. unfortunately, the grid is perfectly cut to the size of a 23cm and will not fit 2x 12cm. case can be mod-ed to either open the top up a bit to get 2x 12cm or to add a rail to mount the rad below the 23cm (more than enough room above mobo to strap 2x 12cm below the rad if that mod is done).
Frankly I do not want to mod the case that much though.

I was thinking of having rad in only push, but in my head, having setup as pull with an extra fan (in push) should be better anyways.

All in all this is going to come down to heat tests after the build is completed. I have plenty of Cougar CF-V12HP's to play with and will spend the 17$ on the 23cm anyways. So I will be tinkering with my fans to find the config that will keep both my processor and graphics at as cool an OC as possible. (OC will not be too aggressive as this is a build for a functional gaming rig (and for myself too







))
Quote:


> This guy has some good pics of speedo stripped down. might give you some ideas maybe not. Good luck:thumb:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/916929/thermaltake-speedo-redo-black-and-red


Very cool! That put a smile on my face!

Let me know if there are any other hot ideas for this case! I have been appreciating the feedback. Making me think things through a 4th time


----------



## Blatsz32

new system comes in tomorrow..i'm excited. stuck with the Sabertooth. i hope things go as smooth as the first build.as in no Mobo issues. Its tough using an old dual core AMD laptop to to my daily dvd burnings. what takes me 15min on my 3570k takes me an hour on this lap top..avi to dvd conversion.

CPU tech sure has come a long way. Anyway will post the new build..with the old parts wehn i'm up and running.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> new system comes in tomorrow..i'm excited. stuck with the Sabertooth. i hope things go as smooth as the first build.as in no Mobo issues. Its tough using an old dual core AMD laptop to to my daily dvd burnings. what takes me 15min on my 3570k takes me an hour on this lap top..avi to dvd conversion.
> CPU tech sure has come a long way. Anyway will post the new build..with the old parts wehn i'm up and running.


What did you end up doing with that board that had the bent pins? Curious..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirSac*
> 
> I do not really have my heart set on push/pull to the point where I do not want to investigate the other options, but I do want it.
> Most people have been saying that I should dump the side fan, but my thought is that dumping a side panel 23cm fan to fit an extra 12cm fan seems funny. More so knowing that this case has only 1x 14cm front intake. May be looking to mod the case to add another 14cm to the front, like was done in the thread you posted.
> I will have a 670dc2 in there, so yes hardware, but does not run that hot. I do plan on OCing both CPU and GPU, however.
> The top of the case mounts another 23cm fan and has the mountings to replace this fan with a 14cm or 12cm. unfortunately, the grid is perfectly cut to the size of a 23cm and will not fit 2x 12cm. case can be mod-ed to either open the top up a bit to get 2x 12cm or to add a rail to mount the rad below the 23cm (more than enough room above mobo to strap 2x 12cm below the rad if that mod is done).
> Frankly I do not want to mod the case that much though.
> I was thinking of having rad in only push, but in my head, having setup as pull with an extra fan (in push) should be better anyways.
> All in all this is going to come down to heat tests after the build is completed. I have plenty of Cougar CF-V12HP's to play with and will spend the 17$ on the 23cm anyways. So I will be tinkering with my fans to find the config that will keep both my processor and graphics at as cool an OC as possible. (OC will not be too aggressive as this is a build for a functional gaming rig (and for myself too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))
> Very cool! That put a smile on my face!
> Let me know if there are any other hot ideas for this case! I have been appreciating the feedback. Making me think things through a 4th time


Yeah, you will just have to experiment with it.


----------



## lzepplin01

If anyone needs spare parts that come with the sabertooth let me know. My RMA was basically a brand new one so I have a lot of extra stuff.


----------



## TigerDS

Thanks all for the swift response,

At the moment I have to disable the MVP Virtu each time I try to run something.
I noticed that my card was not supported, that's why I was hoping to use the CPU video, but if everything else fails







I'll stick with my oldtimer









My Display is a 22" with both VGA and DVI connection.


----------



## TigerDS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> I had this same issue a week ago also in addition to doing the things hanoverfist and I recommended, make sure that you have the most current drivers from Nvidia. Just remember if you think you changed around to many settings in the bios you can reset them to the default settings with the press of one of the F keys....bottom right hand corner of the bios will tell you which F key does what. And in the very worst scenario a fresh start usually does the trick by resetting the cmos (worst case).
> *important question:*Is the system booting past the mobo logo screens and getting the windows logo screen then going black, and then your monitor says "no signal" or "no input"???? Also in many cases for me the computers hardware would turn on but no video output....sometimes it took 5x of turning the psu off then on to receive video output. I had this issue. I replaced my mobo with a new one....it fixed the problem!! However i had other problems that flagged my previous mobo as defective.


My monitor simply says, no signal, while my PC continues to boot... even with the GTX removed from the case..
It is as if my monitor does not support the signal..









If there were only a hardware scanner from asus to check all the components... just to be sure...


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> My monitor simply says, no signal, while my PC continues to boot... even with the GTX removed from the case..
> It is as if my monitor does not support the signal..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there were only a hardware scanner from asus to check all the components... just to be sure...


Hmmmm. I had the same problem! I did everything possible to correct the problem. I was using a EVGA GTX560Ti Ds. Which im pretty sure was not the problem but anyways, Aside from the mobo booting with no output of video it was booting extremely slow(2-3mins)!!! So i gave up trying to fix it and i just exchanged it with a new mobo from mircrocenter. It fixed the problem!! so it is possible you have a faulty mobo..Have you tried clearing the cmos? Let me know if you want more details about what my issues were so we can if they match up! FYI i feel your pain!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> Thanks all for the swift response,
> At the moment I have to disable the MVP Virtu each time I try to run something.
> I noticed that my card was not supported, that's why I was hoping to use the CPU video, but if everything else fails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll stick with my oldtimer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Display is a 22" with both VGA and DVI connection.


. What cable are you using to go from the motherboards display output to your monitors dvi in?


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> My monitor simply says, no signal, while my PC continues to boot... even with the GTX removed from the case..
> It is as if my monitor does not support the signal..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there were only a hardware scanner from asus to check all the components... just to be sure...


It's possible that one of the PCIe slots has gone bad. I know of three people thAt have had this issue. I'm not sure if that was one of my problems. But can you get windows to show up if you unplug the psu then boot the pc?(temporary fix). If not try clearing the CMOS then booting. If neither works I'd just exchange the mobo.


----------



## AVEPICS

*add me up, proud owner of a Sabertooth*


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AVEPICS*
> 
> *add me up, proud owner of a Sabertooth*


What cpu block is that? Fill out your rigbuilder so we can see your e-peen


----------



## AVEPICS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What cpu block is that? Fill out your rigbuilder so we can see your e-peen


XSPC Raystorm -black editon-


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirSac*
> 
> Most people have been saying that I should dump the side fan, but my thought is that dumping a side panel 23cm fan to fit an extra 12cm fan seems funny. More so knowing that this case has only 1x 14cm front intake.


Why not setting both or all four fans on the H100 as intake too?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AVEPICS*
> 
> *add me up, proud owner of a Sabertooth*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good! Any more pics?


----------



## Hanoverfist

XSPC Raystorm -black editon-

Looks good:thumb:


----------



## Arizonian

A little stumped. The top two USB2 & two USB3 ports no longer recognize when I plug in my iPhone or kids iPods. What would have changed that would have caused this? Including my digital camera.

What are my checklist options to trouble shoot this?

The rear USB ports are all working.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> A little stumped. The top two USB2 & two USB3 ports no longer recognize when I plug in my iPhone or kids iPods. What would have changed that would have caused this? Including my digital camera.
> What are my checklist options to trouble shoot this?
> The rear USB ports are all working.


It could have to do with that smart charging stuff for the usb ports. Or maybe that other stuff call asmedia or somthing???


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> A little stumped. The top two USB2 & two USB3 ports no longer recognize when I plug in my iPhone or kids iPods. What would have changed that would have caused this? Including my digital camera.
> What are my checklist options to trouble shoot this?
> The rear USB ports are all working.


Have you tried reinstall the drivers for usb yet?
Have you checked to make sure that the cables are still plugged into the motherboard? I know sounds stupid but doesn't hurt to check
Is your device manager showing any ?
if you have a spare rear panel usb 2 header laying around try plugging that in to where you had the front panel header plugged into. if it works then you know you have a problem with the front ports.
Also could be as simple as reinitializing those front headers.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have you tried reinstall the drivers for usb yet?
> Have you checked to make sure that the cables are still plugged into the motherboard? I know sounds stupid but doesn't hurt to check
> Is your device manager showing any ?


I haven't reinstalled drivers since it was still showing in the device manager and without any errors. I will try that tonight after work. See if that works.

I did enable the ASMEDIA smart charging and it was working along with USB. I disabled it and nothing happened. I checked hard wire and it was connected securely.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I haven't reinstalled drivers since it was still showing in the device manager and without any errors. I will try that tonight after work. See if that works.
> I did enable the ASMEDIA smart charging and it was working along with USB. I disabled it and nothing happened. I checked hard wire and it was connected securely.


ok post back on your progress.. I am interested in this one.

latest bios here just in case you had not seen it:thumb:

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


----------



## dieselHomey

Hi All,

purchased my z77 board a few weeks ago. Trying to build a monster of a machine. I want to go with watercooling but trying to figure out all the components. Below are the specs I intend to purchases; however need some help with the water cooling CPU block.

*Case:*
CaseLabs M10 (WHITE) with the base (where my radiator, pump, and reservoir will be setup in.

*Mobo:*
Sabertooth z77 (purchased)

*CPU:*
SandyBridge Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics

*Graphics:*
EVGA GeForce GTX 690 Hydro Copper Signature (x2) SLI

I was looking at the XSPC or the Swifttech CPU blocks and water pump but never used any of these before so was trying to feel out everyone comments which is better, experience
Also was looking at watercooling RAM but i've read mixed review. RAM watercooled does not really effect anything, etc... Not sure to wing it with the watercooled RAM if so has anyone ever picked on over the other? which brand? etc...

///R


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dieselHomey*
> 
> Hi All,
> purchased my z77 board a few weeks ago. Trying to build a monster of a machine. I want to go with watercooling but trying to figure out all the components. Below are the specs I intend to purchases; however need some help with the water cooling CPU block.
> *Case:*
> CaseLabs M10 (WHITE) with the base (where my radiator, pump, and reservoir will be setup in.
> *Mobo:*
> Sabertooth z77 (purchased)
> *CPU:*
> SandyBridge Intel Core i7-2700K Sandy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics
> *Graphics:*
> EVGA GeForce GTX 690 Hydro Copper Signature (x2) SLI
> I was looking at the XSPC or the Swifttech CPU blocks and water pump but never used any of these before so was trying to feel out everyone comments which is better, experience
> Also was looking at watercooling RAM but i've read mixed review. RAM watercooled does not really effect anything, etc... Not sure to wing it with the watercooled RAM if so has anyone ever picked on over the other? which brand? etc...
> ///R


I have been building a loop for about a month now ..reading a ton of reviews and asking questions on everything ..finally ordered today.. so if you are between the xspc and the swifttech hd .. tons of guys buy the raystorm because of cost to performance ratio is quite good thats the acetal top version. And the raystorm is close to the Swifttech performance so it will boil down to which one looks better to you.
Great Review herehttp://skinneelabs.com/2011-cpu-block-review-compilation/

I personally went with the DT sniper for flowrate and looks. Plus the guy that makes them is on this site.http://www.overclock.net/t/1268070/dt-sniper-waterblock

Watercooling ram is a waste of time IMO. It just doesn't get that hot. But if you want to then by all means.
price does not justify the performance gain.

Another site in case you have not seen ithttp://martinsliquidlab.org/category/blocks/


----------



## TigerDS

@ Chillie,

I've tried clearing the CMOS already, also setting the Prime VGA to IGPU, which resulted in a booting system, but no display.
Unfortunately I'm unable to connect the monitor through HDMI as my monitor doesn't support it.
But it clearly doesn't work with DVI...

I think I'm gonna have a chat with ASUS about this.. see what they have to say...
Still hoping it's a simple setting issue though....


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> @ Chillie,
> I've tried clearing the CMOS already, also setting the Prime VGA to IGPU, which resulted in a booting system, but no display.
> Unfortunately I'm unable to connect the monitor through HDMI as my monitor doesn't support it.
> But it clearly doesn't work with DVI...
> I think I'm gonna have a chat with ASUS about this.. see what they have to say...
> Still hoping it's a simple setting issue though....


I ran into a very similar issue. Honestly to me it sounds like you have a faulty board or something along those lines. I know it's an annoying process with all the restarts and bios runs. But trust me when u get this mobo running its worth trouble!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> @ Chillie,
> I've tried clearing the CMOS already, also setting the Prime VGA to IGPU, which resulted in a booting system, but no display.
> Unfortunately I'm unable to connect the monitor through HDMI as my monitor doesn't support it.
> But it clearly doesn't work with DVI...
> I think I'm gonna have a chat with ASUS about this.. see what they have to say...
> Still hoping it's a simple setting issue though....


This would work incase you want to try http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002CZHN6?ie=UTF8&ref_=aw_bottom_links&force-full-site=1


----------



## SmartedPAnda

Is there anyway to disable the on-board video? I keep getting problems with installing nVidia drivers w/ the board. I just got this.


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> I'm new here so hello everybody!
> I got my Sabertooth Z77 a week ago, since my old P8P67 has passed away.
> I'm still having my Core i7 2600k and G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 1.25v
> At first, after building the system, I turner on the comp and everything seemed to be fine so I started to install all drivers for the new mobo.
> After a few reboots needed by driver installation, the computer started to randomly freeze.
> I decided to run prime95 to test system stability and I got an instant freeze and after turning off and on again, the system won't post anymore, having the cpu red led on.
> I thought the cpu was damaged so I got a G530 and after installing it I started to get dram red led and I had to move the 2 dimms to B1 and B2, no other combination would let the computer post.
> Today I updated the bios with the 1403 version and for my surprise, dualchannel is working perfectly now, so I decided to give it a second try to my 2600k with the new bios and the computer posted! and I made it to the windows desktop, but only for 10 minutes till it got freeze and never posted again having the red cpu led on.
> Btw, my 2600k was tested in a different mobo and it's working.
> Could it be that 2600k + SB z77 + F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 is a bad combination?
> Any help is welcomed and sorry for my bad english + the text wall


Alright, I'm back with news:
It turned out that the problem was the processor (the P8P67 carried the 2600k with it...), and yesterday I got a new one through rma.
However, the problem with the dual channel not working was only fixed after a bios update with the 1403 version.
Now everything is working like a charm, except for this:
There is no way I can make the IGP to work after installing the intel drivers.
If I set IGP as main graphics, I can see tuf logo and the windows logo, then the screen turns off but the computer is still working.
If I uninstall IGP drivers, then I can get into windows without problems, but after installing drivers and restarting the computer, all I get is black screen.
Anyone having similar problems?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmartedPAnda*
> 
> Is there anyway to disable the on-board video? I keep getting problems with installing nVidia drivers w/ the board. I just got this.


Page 3-26 in manual..Primary Display.. set to PCIe


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Page 3-26 in manual..Primary Display.. set to PCIe


Actually setting that only determines the primary display, "iGPU Multi monitor" will enable/disable the option.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> Looking good Saurk66!
> Added a couple of red stickers to spice up the sabertooth &my red/black theme.


How did you make those stickers?

Also, I'm able to hit 4.5 on pretty low volts, but I'm still getting Whea errors. Post= http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/1400_20#post_17775172

No one seems to have a real confirmed source about them either. So I'm tempted to just wait.


----------



## fulge

Can anyone tell me how, with the Sabertooth Z77, to turn off Turbo Boost for an i7 3770k cpu?
(I'm having stability issues).


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fulge*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how, with the Sabertooth Z77, to turn off Turbo Boost for an i7 3770k cpu?
> (I'm having stability issues).


Go into the advanced bios and set the turbo feature to disabled. The feature is located in the same area of core multiplier/bclk.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Actually setting that only determines the primary display, "iGPU Multi monitor" will enable/disable the option.


It is disabled by default ..but yes good point who knows how he had it.


----------



## fulge

Thanks!


----------



## SmartedPAnda

Still having nVidia drivers issues with my main PCI-E card, any suggestions? I contacted both Windows 7, PNY (the card vendor) and ASUS, only PNY and they think it's the motherboard.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> How did you make those stickers?
> Also, I'm able to hit 4.5 on pretty low volts, but I'm still getting Whea errors. Post= http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/1400_20#post_17775172
> No one seems to have a real confirmed source about them either. So I'm tempted to just wait.


Can you post screenshots of the WHEA errors?


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmartedPAnda*
> 
> Still having nVidia drivers issues with my main PCI-E card, any suggestions? I contacted both Windows 7, PNY (the card vendor) and ASUS, only PNY and they think it's the motherboard.


Other people have been having issues with PCI slots as well. You are using 301 driver? What exactly are the issues? Random crashes?


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Other people have been having issues with PCI slots as well. You are using 301 driver? What exactly are the issues? Random crashes?


I had this issue!!!! I'm telling you guys just replace the mobo!!!! It's also possible the CPU is bad but I doubt I'd your systems are posting!


----------



## Outcasst

Has anybody managed to successfully downgrade the BIOS from version 1403? I'm trying to flash version 1403 again in order to use the latest RAID ROM, however it won't let me. I thought I would try to flash to a previous version, then flash back up to the modified 1403.

I tried the past 3 versions but I can't flash any of them. Says that the version is out-dated. USB Flashback doesn't work either.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Other people have been having issues with PCI slots as well. You are using 301 driver? What exactly are the issues? Random crashes?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmartedPAnda*
> 
> Still having nVidia drivers issues with my main PCI-E card, any suggestions? I contacted both Windows 7, PNY (the card vendor) and ASUS, only PNY and they think it's the motherboard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerDS*
> 
> @ Chillie,
> I've tried clearing the CMOS already, also setting the Prime VGA to IGPU, which resulted in a booting system, but no display.
> Unfortunately I'm unable to connect the monitor through HDMI as my monitor doesn't support it.
> But it clearly doesn't work with DVI...
> I think I'm gonna have a chat with ASUS about this.. see what they have to say...
> Still hoping it's a simple setting issue though....


Hey guys I know I have been saying just replace your motherboards if your having the PCIe problem or video output issues in general. I had this problem as well i spent about 3 days trying to figure it out







, so i gave up and exchanged my mobo for a fresh one......that solved the problem







. Anyways here are some screen shots of how i have my BIOS setup. I forgot to to mention this but as a last resort try setting your PCIe configuration to "GEN2". From what i have heard from some friends it has helped. But was in no way a permanent fix. IMO it sounds the 4 of us just got unlucky....i know it sucks! but who knows for sure at this point. I hope these help.




















If anyone would like some more screenshots of my BIOS just let me know I'd be happy to help you all figure out this issue (im pretty sure its due to defective mobos) !


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why my new 3770K system with an Asus Z77 Sabertooth motherboard was unstable, even when not overclocking.

I finally found out that it had to do with the RAM I was using:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568

I had 32GB in there, but also tried two sticks at a time and each set failed, so I'm inclined to think the RAM itself is not bad.

When I switched to a lower density G.SKILL RAM, the problem immediately went away!

Is this board known to be this finicky with certain types of RAM? Could I have a bad board? Has anyone else had a problem like this?


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why my new 3770K system with an Asus Z77 Sabertooth motherboard was unstable, even when not overclocking.
> I finally found out that it had to do with the RAM I was using:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
> I had 32GB in there, but also tried two sticks at a time and each set failed, so I'm inclined to think the RAM itself is not bad.
> When I switched to a lower density G.SKILL RAM, the problem immediately went away!
> Is this board known to be this finicky with certain types of RAM? Could I have a bad board? Has anyone else had a problem like this?


I am not really sure I've never had a problem with bad RAM in it (or RAM the mobo did not like). I am and running 2x 8gb sticks of corsair vengeance (16gb) in addition to cheap cheap crap Microcenter brand ram at 4gb each (8gb). I believe the Microcenter RAM runs at 1333mhz and the Corsair runs at 1600mhz. I am actually shocked all the auto RAM clocking stuff on motherboard had even auto-clocked all 4 dims to run as dual channel. I have also ran it with just my budget RAM and it did great.

Anyways my answer would be no. or at least in my experience. However I am also sure there are some users out there that would have had similar experiences to you. Make sure you putting the RAM in the right slots....im sure you are though.


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why my new 3770K system with an Asus Z77 Sabertooth motherboard was unstable, even when not overclocking.
> I finally found out that it had to do with the RAM I was using:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
> I had 32GB in there, but also tried two sticks at a time and each set failed, so I'm inclined to think the RAM itself is not bad.
> When I switched to a lower density G.SKILL RAM, the problem immediately went away!
> Is this board known to be this finicky with certain types of RAM? Could I have a bad board? Has anyone else had a problem like this?


Check my posts, I was having problems with g.skill ram and it was solved after updating the bios with the 1403 version.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why my new 3770K system with an Asus Z77 Sabertooth motherboard was unstable, even when not overclocking.
> I finally found out that it had to do with the RAM I was using:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
> I had 32GB in there, but also tried two sticks at a time and each set failed, so I'm inclined to think the RAM itself is not bad.
> When I switched to a lower density G.SKILL RAM, the problem immediately went away!
> Is this board known to be this finicky with certain types of RAM? Could I have a bad board? Has anyone else had a problem like this?


Have you tried talking to G.Skill about this. I have been reading other forums about gskill kits that were actually supported by the board and on the QVL and still caused problems. One in particular was a conversation between gskill rep and a user. solved by rma the board. That is unfortunately the kind of crap early users of new tech go through. I don't see that gskill you tried on the QVL either. good to know you solved it by switching to another module. Is that on the QVL in the Manual? Hopefully more 8gb modules will be supported through bios updates


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Can you post screenshots of the WHEA errors?


I will tonight. Sorry, I didn't see this until today. They are processor parity errors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out why my new 3770K system with an Asus Z77 Sabertooth motherboard was unstable, even when not overclocking.
> I finally found out that it had to do with the RAM I was using:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
> I had 32GB in there, but also tried two sticks at a time and each set failed, so I'm inclined to think the RAM itself is not bad.
> When I switched to a lower density G.SKILL RAM, the problem immediately went away!
> Is this board known to be this finicky with certain types of RAM? Could I have a bad board? Has anyone else had a problem like this?


Did you try just putting in 1 stick and then configuring the bios to match the ram requirements? Speed, timings, voltage. Then saving and turning off and then putting all the sticks in? Do they pass on memtest86+ either?


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Check my posts, I was having problems with g.skill ram and it was solved after updating the bios with the 1403 version.


Thanks, but I was already using 1403.

I'm RMA'ing the 32GB of G.SKILL RAM back to Newegg. The lower density G.SKILL RAM seems to be working fine but I'm still testing. All my slots are loaded with 4GB sticks. I use to have them all loaded with 8GB sticks. I really didn't need all that RAM anyway.


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have you tried talking to G.Skill about this. I have been reading other forums about gskill kits that were actually supported by the board and on the QVL and still caused problems. One in particular was a conversation between gskill rep and a user. solved by rma the board. That is unfortunately the kind of crap early users of new tech go through. I don't see that gskill you tried on the QVL either. good to know you solved it by switching to another module. Is that on the QVL in the Manual? Hopefully more 8gb modules will be supported through bios updates


I didn't talk to G.SKILL about it. I'm just going to return it.

The RAM I am using now is F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL. I see something very similar on the QVL, but not the exact model. The last two letters are different.

I do hope it's not because my board is defective though, but I suppose there is no easy way to tell exactly what is at fault.


----------



## javaneze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Did you try just putting in 1 stick and then configuring the bios to match the ram requirements? Speed, timings, voltage. Then saving and turning off and then putting all the sticks in?


This actually did the trick for me and my 4*4 ripjaws Z.
Had to push mem ok button three to four times before I can boot up, but after booting up and setting the xmp profile on the one stick, all four worked like a charm afterwards.

I guess what went wrong was that I already had set an xmp profile for the vengeance ram I replaced with the ripjaws and forgot to set bios defaults before the change.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *javaneze*
> 
> This actually did the trick for me and my 4*4 ripjaws Z.
> Had to push mem ok button three to four times before I can boot up, but after booting up and setting the xmp profile on the one stick, all four worked like a charm afterwards.
> I guess what went wrong was that I already had set an xmp profile for the vengeance ram I replaced with the ripjaws and forgot to set bios defaults before the change.


Woot!

Also, please tell us how you made those neat stickers!


----------



## chimuelo

I am looking for any board that will run 32GB's without having to opt for the higher binned C206/Xeon parts.
I give release and fix later developers another month.

What's sad is my friend bought the Intel DZ77 and purchased the " tested " and approved 8GB sticks from Corsair and even the once mission critical stabilitiy Intel is known for, is just another platform that releases products with little QA testing.

Funny how the Reviewers slways get working products, but then again they are scared of large RAM footprints.

I love the Z77 Sabertooth in a 1U, everything about it perfect except for the inability to run 4 x 8GB sticks.....

Fingers Crossed.


----------



## Sypherian

I'm considering this board or the Gigabyte g1 sniper 3 but after reading several posts inside the official g1 sniper 3/m3 owners thread, with all the problems people have had because of missing bios updates and fixes iv'e made up my mind and i'm going with sabertooth z77.

But since i have a 2600k will i have any problems using that cpu with a pci-e 3.0 gfx card more specifically the msi 690 GTX card?? thought it wouldn't be necessary to invest in a Ivy bridge processor since i wont really get that much of a performance upgrade in games, according to the benchmarks iv'e seen.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimuelo*
> 
> I am looking for any board that will run 32GB's without having to opt for the higher binned C206/Xeon parts.
> I give release and fix later developers another month.
> What's sad is my friend bought the Intel DZ77 and purchased the " tested " and approved 8GB sticks from Corsair and even the once mission critical stabilitiy Intel is known for, is just another platform that releases products with little QA testing.
> Funny how the Reviewers slways get working products, but then again they are scared of large RAM footprints.
> I love the Z77 Sabertooth in a 1U, everything about it perfect except for the inability to run 4 x 8GB sticks.....
> Fingers Crossed.


Corsair CMT3Gx3M4x1866C9(XMP) 32GB (4 x 8GB) is on the QVL for sabertooth z77

I think a 2 is missing between the 3 and the G. Very expensive memory


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sypherian*
> 
> I'm considering this board or the Gigabyte g1 sniper 3 but after reading several posts inside the official g1 sniper 3/m3 owners thread, with all the problems people have had because of missing bios updates and fixes iv'e made up my mind and i'm going with sabertooth z77.
> But since i have a 2600k will i have any problems using that cpu with a pci-e 3.0 gfx card more specifically the msi 690 GTX card?? thought it wouldn't be necessary to invest in a Ivy bridge processor since i wont really get that much of a performance upgrade in games, according to the benchmarks iv'e seen.


I have seen guys running sabertooth z77 and 2600k only with an asus 690 and getting pretty good benchmarks. I dont see you having a problem using a msi 690


----------



## navit

The 1403 Bios is gone from the Asus site







what gives guys?


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> The 1403 Bios is gone from the Asus site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what gives guys?


I saw that too. Been running it since day 1.. My machine seems OK. Let's hope they revise and update and post a new one soon...I know that there is one indivudial on the Asus boards that is having extreme issues after having update to 1403. Maybe there is something to his claims...


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> I saw that too. Been running it since day 1.. My machine seems OK. Let's hope they revise and update and post a new one soon...I know that there is one indivudial on the Asus boards that is having extreme issues after having update to 1403. Maybe there is something to his claims...


Interesting... I wonder if it has anything to do with instability... perhaps due to 32GB of RAM like the issue I just had.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> Interesting... I wonder if it has anything to do with instability... perhaps due to 32GB of RAM like the issue I just had.


The thread on the Asus boards had more to do with disabling the guy's RAID 1 array. He was posting in all caps and saying things like User beware...do not use, etc. Pretty angry. As I said before, I am running an SSD for OS drive and a 1 tb 7200 rpm drive for data, etc. I have had no SATA issues...but mine is only one of an incredible amount of configurations. Perhaps memory is another.


----------



## navit

I am running the same config on 1403 and all runs fine for me.


----------



## Zak13

I searched the thread and didn't see any post describing a problem similar to the one I'm about to describe, but its a big thread so.

Anyways I recently built a new gaming pc, here are the specs:

os: Windows 7 x64

ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K

EVGA 015-P3-1480-KR GeForce GTX 480 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

NZXT Phantom PHAN-001RD Red Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R

ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM

So many of the games I have been trying to play keep freezing after 10-20 minutes of play. The computer doesn't freeze just the game, i need to ctl-alt-del to the to the desktop to close the game. Games that have been freezing are BF3 and dota 2. Assassin's Creed Brotherhood also freezes but if i alt-tab to desktop and then go back into the game, it starts working again. I've turned off the integrated soundcard via bios and haven't had a crash in BF3 or dota 2 after 4 hours of gameplay (haven't tested AC Brotherhood yet). All my drivers are up to date, and the crashes happen at high and low gpu and cpu temperatures. Any ideas?


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zak13*
> 
> I searched the thread and didn't see any post describing a problem similar to the one I'm about to describe, but its a big thread so.
> Anyways I recently built a new gaming pc, here are the specs:
> 
> os: Windows 7 x64
> ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
> Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
> EVGA 015-P3-1480-KR GeForce GTX 480 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
> CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
> NZXT Phantom PHAN-001RD Red Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case
> CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R
> ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
> 
> So many of the games I have been trying to play keep freezing after 10-20 minutes of play. The computer doesn't freeze just the game, i need to ctl-alt-del to the to the desktop to close the game. Games that have been freezing are BF3 and dota 2. Assassin's Creed Brotherhood also freezes but if i alt-tab to desktop and then go back into the game, it starts working again. I've turned off the integrated soundcard via bios and haven't had a crash in BF3 or dota 2 after 4 hours of gameplay (haven't tested AC Brotherhood yet). All my drivers are up to date, and the crashes happen at high and low gpu and cpu temperatures. Any ideas?


that happens to me to when i play bf3, the game just froze i thought it was my power supply. but i guess it's the 1403 bios that cause this







.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zak13*
> 
> I searched the thread and didn't see any post describing a problem similar to the one I'm about to describe, but its a big thread so.
> Anyways I recently built a new gaming pc, here are the specs:
> 
> os: Windows 7 x64
> ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
> Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
> EVGA 015-P3-1480-KR GeForce GTX 480 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
> CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
> NZXT Phantom PHAN-001RD Red Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case
> CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R
> ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
> 
> So many of the games I have been trying to play keep freezing after 10-20 minutes of play. The computer doesn't freeze just the game, i need to ctl-alt-del to the to the desktop to close the game. Games that have been freezing are BF3 and dota 2. Assassin's Creed Brotherhood also freezes but if i alt-tab to desktop and then go back into the game, it starts working again. I've turned off the integrated soundcard via bios and haven't had a crash in BF3 or dota 2 after 4 hours of gameplay (haven't tested AC Brotherhood yet). All my drivers are up to date, and the crashes happen at high and low gpu and cpu temperatures. Any ideas?


What bios rev are you using.. Asus took down 1403 so if your using that revert back to 1304 for startershttp://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

also in bios set primary display to PCIe and make sure iGPU multi mon is disabled. 3-26 manual


----------



## SPMOkc73

Not sure why they took it down but mine is running fine with it and boots quicker than before so Im going to leave it for now.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Not sure why they took it down but mine is running fine with it and boots quicker than before so Im going to leave it for now.


Yeah not sure why its gone. Sure am seeing this display issue a lot though. Not sure if its related to specific hardware configuration or what. Or even memory type.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yeah not sure why its gone. Sure am seeing this display issue a lot though. Not sure if its related to specific hardware configuration or what. Or even memory type.


That is odd, played BF3 for a couple hours last night everything was fine.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sypherian*
> 
> I'm considering this board or the Gigabyte g1 sniper 3 but after reading several posts inside the official g1 sniper 3/m3 owners thread, with all the problems people have had because of missing bios updates and fixes iv'e made up my mind and i'm going with sabertooth z77.
> But since i have a 2600k will i have any problems using that cpu with a pci-e 3.0 gfx card more specifically the msi 690 GTX card?? thought it wouldn't be necessary to invest in a Ivy bridge processor since i wont really get that much of a performance upgrade in games, according to the benchmarks iv'e seen.


2600K only support PCIe rev 2.0 but GTX690 will not have problem running with it. GTX690 will be running at PCIe 2.0. PCIe 2.0 still offer a lot of bandwidth for GTX690 to work without bottlenecking.


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zak13*
> 
> I searched the thread and didn't see any post describing a problem similar to the one I'm about to describe, but its a big thread so.
> Anyways I recently built a new gaming pc, here are the specs:
> 
> os: Windows 7 x64
> ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
> Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
> EVGA 015-P3-1480-KR GeForce GTX 480 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
> CORSAIR Professional Series HX750 (CMPSU-750HX) 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
> Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
> NZXT Phantom PHAN-001RD Red Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case
> CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R
> ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS - OEM
> 
> So many of the games I have been trying to play keep freezing after 10-20 minutes of play. The computer doesn't freeze just the game, i need to ctl-alt-del to the to the desktop to close the game. Games that have been freezing are BF3 and dota 2. Assassin's Creed Brotherhood also freezes but if i alt-tab to desktop and then go back into the game, it starts working again. I've turned off the integrated soundcard via bios and haven't had a crash in BF3 or dota 2 after 4 hours of gameplay (haven't tested AC Brotherhood yet). All my drivers are up to date, and the crashes happen at high and low gpu and cpu temperatures. Any ideas?


You haven't mentioned if you were overclocking the video cards. I had the same thing happen with 2 x GTX 680's in sli on BF3. The only thing that stopped it was lowering the overclock on the ram on the cards. In this case from 3505 to 3404.


----------



## tienjoh

hi the 1403 bios update indeed really screws up raid 1 arrays mine to is a big mess nothing i can't handel do.
basically sata bios settings got put back to ahci not raid so the arrays were deleted and in windows there is a conflict between drive id's i was able to recover 1 array because i knew it was comlete sync before i update the bios. so with the intel software i created a new array with option to keep data of 1 of the 2 disks. but my second array was a bit messy so first i will backup the disk and create a new array out of that 2 hdd's. but now coms my problem.

i am pretty new her and dont know if anyone her can help me with my question.
the point is got a corsair h60 liquid cooler but canot seem to proper fit on my asus sabertooth because the screws that were with the corsair h60 for lga2011 are i think not the right one's.

in the photo on the right is normal one on the left is for lga 2011 you can see 1 side of the screw is thicker what do i miss?



is there somebody who had this kind a problem before


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tienjoh*
> 
> i am pretty new her and dont know if anyone her can help me with my question.
> the point is got a corsair h60 liquid cooler but canot seem to proper fit on my asus sabertooth because the screws that were with the corsair h60 for lga2011 are i think not the right one's.
> in the photo on the right is normal one on the left is for lga 2011 you can see 1 side of the screw is thicker what do i miss?
> 
> is there somebody who had this kind a problem before


The shorter one is for LGA2011 because it doesn't need the included backplate. Use the longer one because you need to use the included backplate.

Please refer to this on how to mount H60 on LGA1155 socket motherboard:-
http://www.corsair.com/applicationnote/H60_Intel


----------



## tienjoh

thanks:thumb: did not know if the space between cpu en cooling was right so i ask.

again thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tienjoh*
> 
> thanks:thumb: did not know if the space between cpu en cooling was right so i ask.
> again thanks


Heads up on that Avatar.. They may warn you about profanity, may not. Just lookin out for a fellow Z77.


----------



## Sypherian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 2600K only support PCIe rev 2.0 but GTX690 will not have problem running with it. GTX690 will be running at PCIe 2.0. PCIe 2.0 still offer a lot of bandwidth for GTX690 to work without bottlenecking.


Thank you exactly the answer i was looking for +REP for you my man.


----------



## chimuelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Corsair CMT3Gx3M4x1866C9(XMP) 32GB (4 x 8GB) is on the QVL for sabertooth z77
> I think a 2 is missing between the 3 and the G. Very expensive memory


That's fine by me if it works. Unfortunately I am from the SHow Me State, until I see proof of it's stability under MemTest and Prime, I consider it non existant.
Especially after seeing a guy on the Intel forum buying the very RAM Intel suggested for 8GB DIMMs, and even claimed they tested it, just to find out they were full of crap.
I appreciate your response, but if you have a link to where I might actually see proof of such a mythical beast, I would be eternally grateful....
Asus Z77 Sabertooth would be my choice, as it is perfect for a 1U, and the Topology where the DIMM's run in parallel, instead of Serial is most appealing.

Kind Regards,

Chimuelo, Star of Stage & Screen...


----------



## Detoyminador

I've just completed my Sabertooth Z77 build with a 2700k and couldn't be more happier with temps and current clock, turbo @ 4.6Ghz on air (hope to go higher, if not happy with current clock).
Was nervous with the UEFI bios at fist but I've found it pretty easy to manage.
It was great to read through this thread preparing for the build with some helpful tips, so many thanks.
Great motherboard, love it


----------



## tienjoh

yeah got one didnt think about is before i made it my photo.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I've just completed my Sabertooth Z77 build with a 2700k and couldn't be more happier with temps and current clock, turbo @ 4.6Ghz on air (hope to go higher, if not happy with current clock).
> Was nervous with the UEFI bios at fist but I've found it pretty easy to manage.
> It was great to read through this thread preparing for the build with some helpful tips, so many thanks.
> Great motherboard, love it


Nice Build..Welcome:thumb:


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tienjoh*
> 
> yeah got one didnt think about is before i made it my photo.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

What is the highest we are getting with the 3570k with this board....

Im stuck on 4.4 stable using the offset method.

If anyone has higher please share there bios here


----------



## skiline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> What is the highest we are getting with the 3570k with this board....
> Im stuck on 4.4 stable using the offset method.
> If anyone has higher please share there bios here


i did manage a 4.4ghz manual voltage set to 1.235v ( 24h stable on prime 95 ) i also went to 4.6ghz but no success with the offset method but i set a 1.350v manually and ran prime95 3 hour and did 50 passes on IBT with no error

also i dont have any errors on windows event viewer i had like 50 before when my voltage on the 4.4ghz was set to 1.225v had to raise it to 1.235v for the message to stop showing ( happened only with prime95 )

also when my voltage on the 4.6ghz was set to 1.3v to 1.325v i had only bsod after 10minutes on prime 1.330 to 1.340 v prime95 crased dont know why looked on google no answer 1.350v was ok temp where at mid 80c on prime and almost at 90c on IBT

but my voltage was to high for my taste on 4.6ghz i will stay at 4.4ghz 100x44 cpuV 1.235v ppl to 1.7v temps at 66c on realtemp at AI suite 2 shows 50c using antec 920 kulher


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hmmm... I was thinking. It would be awesome if someone actually creates a window theme for Asus Sabertooth, just like what ROG have.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hmmm... I was thinking. It would be awesome if someone actually creates a window theme for Asus Sabertooth, just like what ROG have.


With a triple screen background please


----------



## Elenion

Could someone recommend me the most stable BIOS version available Sabertooth z77?

Edit: I noticed version 1304 came out recently, has anyone had any issues with this?


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

I am using a 4.4 GHz overclock with a 3770K CPU with a +.05 voltage offset and it appears to be stable. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks.


----------



## martinhal

Hi All,

Was doing research and I think Im going to get one... was between a Sabertooth , Sniper 3 or Maximus V

Looked at the Sniper 3 owners thread and it did not make for good reading , lots of bios issues...

Maximus not available in SA for at least 6 weeks - The board looks good on paper but it has so many features/gimics I wont need . Yes it is good OC board but my 3770 does 5 Ghz on a Z77 V pro

This leaves the Sabertooth , looks good and I like what I've read in this thread.

One quick question . I run raid 0 with 3 HDD and IRST on a SSD . I have an additional SATA port for a non raid HDD for back ups and disk immages ( to roll back on after 7970 driver install fails







) . Will the Sabertooth allow me to do that ?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I am using a 4.4 GHz overclock with a 3770K CPU with a +.05 voltage offset and it appears to be stable. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks.


Whats your full load voltage at? whats your full load temp at? your stable so thats a good thing. If your unhappy with the temp and voltage when loaded start by lowering that offset to tighten up the max voltage.. yes it is reasonable.. You could get more depending on your cooling:thumb:


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Could someone recommend me the most stable BIOS version available Sabertooth z77?
> Edit: I noticed version 1304 came out recently, has anyone had any issues with this?


It will vary depending on your hardware but 1206 had less stability issues IMO


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Whats your full load voltage at? whats your full load temp at? your stable so thats a good thing. If your unhappy with the temp and voltage when loaded start by lowering that offset to tighten up the max voltage.. yes it is reasonable.. You could get more depending on your cooling:thumb:


Full load voltage is around 1.224V (CPU-Z), temps max around 57C (SpeedFan) with Cooler Master 212 EVO so i think I'm in good shape based on this and what I've read so far.

I do think I could get more but I like "conservative" overclocks.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> Full load voltage is around 1.224V (CPU-Z), temps max around 57C (SpeedFan) with Cooler Master 212 EVO so i think I'm in good shape based on this and what I've read so far.
> I do think I could get more but I like "conservative" overclocks.


Thats excellent:thumb:


----------



## Elenion

Anyone knows the dimension for the assist fan? is it 40mm and 10mm thick or 20mm?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Anyone knows the dimension for the assist fan? is it 40mm and 10mm thick or 20mm?


35mm x 10mm


----------



## majax

Just bought the Sabertooth & Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor. So excited!!! 1st PC build ever. Thanks to all the people who help on these forums!!!

On to the next component...

H100 or EVO 212...decisions, decisions...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> Just bought the Sabertooth & Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor. So excited!!! 1st PC build ever. Thanks to all the people who help on these forums!!!
> On to the next component...
> H100 or EVO 212...decisions, decisions...


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> Just bought the Sabertooth & Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor. So excited!!! 1st PC build ever. Thanks to all the people who help on these forums!!!
> On to the next component...
> H100 or EVO 212...decisions, decisions...


I have the 212 EVO and like it, works great & fits fine and has a higher rating than the H100 on Amazon, so the 212 EVO gets my vote.

Oh yeah, a lot cheaper too!


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> Just bought the Sabertooth & Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor. So excited!!! 1st PC build ever. Thanks to all the people who help on these forums!!!
> On to the next component...
> H100 or EVO 212...decisions, decisions...


Much prefer the Corsair Hydro series, the 212 is hideously ugly and even my little H60 is more than enough with 4.2 OC 24/7.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> i did manage a 4.4ghz manual voltage set to 1.235v ( 24h stable on prime 95 ) i also went to 4.6ghz but no success with the offset method but i set a 1.350v manually and ran prime95 3 hour and did 50 passes on IBT with no error
> also i dont have any errors on windows event viewer i had like 50 before when my voltage on the 4.4ghz was set to 1.225v had to raise it to 1.235v for the message to stop showing ( happened only with prime95 )
> also when my voltage on the 4.6ghz was set to 1.3v to 1.325v i had only bsod after 10minutes on prime 1.330 to 1.340 v prime95 crased dont know why looked on google no answer 1.350v was ok temp where at mid 80c on prime and almost at 90c on IBT
> but my voltage was to high for my taste on 4.6ghz i will stay at 4.4ghz 100x44 cpuV 1.235v ppl to 1.7v temps at 66c on realtemp at AI suite 2 shows 50c using antec 920 kulher


Thanks Skiline from what im seeing there are not to many pushing past 4.4 with the 3570k and having much succsess.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> Just bought the Sabertooth & Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor. So excited!!! 1st PC build ever. Thanks to all the people who help on these forums!!!
> On to the next component...
> H100 or EVO 212...decisions, decisions...


I recommend H100. The performance is similar to high end air cooler but slightly better. H100 will make your setup cleaner. And I also don't like big air cooler.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martinhal*
> 
> Hi All,
> Was doing research and I think Im going to get one... was between a Sabertooth , Sniper 3 or Maximus V
> Looked at the Sniper 3 owners thread and it did not make for good reading , lots of bios issues...
> Maximus not available in SA for at least 6 weeks - The board looks good on paper but it has so many features/gimics I wont need . Yes it is good OC board but my 3770 does 5 Ghz on a Z77 V pro
> This leaves the Sabertooth , looks good and I like what I've read in this thread.
> One quick question . I run raid 0 with 3 HDD and IRST on a SSD . I have an additional SATA port for a non raid HDD for back ups and disk immages ( to roll back on after 7970 driver install fails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) . Will the Sabertooth allow me to do that ?


yes, you'll be able to use a Storage HDD


----------



## Caelen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What bios rev are you using.. Asus took down 1403 so if your using that revert back to 1304 for starters


could you please explain exactly how you managed to revert to older BIOS as I have been unable to do so.

Thanks

edit: Doh, worked it out, used the BIOS Flashback option. Not sure why I never tried it before


----------



## Bosniac

My MSI P67 G45 wouldn't post, so I ran out and bought the Sabertooth. So far, I've been able to increase my OC from 4.5 to 5.1 stable on 2500k. Love the board. The small mb fan makes this whining noise though with different dB.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bosniac*
> 
> My MSI P67 G45 wouldn't post, so I ran out and bought the Sabertooth. So far, I've been able to increase my OC from 4.5 to 5.1 stable on 2500k. Love the board. The small mb fan makes this whining noise though with different dB.


I can tell you it's just your fan(s). I hear no noises from mine at all. Maybe rma the fans?


----------



## Willhemmens

Nah, that fans are far from quiet.

Bosniac, install AI Suite and open up Fan Expert 2 and click Fan Auto Tuning. You'll then be able to adjust the speeds.

To be honest though, you probably don't even need them installed if they're annoying.

Update on my PC.

My De-lidding didn't go so well and I slightly chipped the die.

Here's how it looked:



















It was enough to kill the chip so you have to be super careful with these.

So here is the replacement:










So far it seems like a way better chip, performing cooler and is doing 4.8GHz with less voltage than the last one required for 4.6GHz.

Not sure if I'll de-lid this one but if I do, it won't be for a while.

Also if you ever want to be able to read the writing on your CPU again or care about the base of your cooler or waterblock, don't use Liquid Ultra as a normal TIM between your CPU and cooler.


----------



## martinhal

From what I read it is best to delid before use so that the black stuff does not get too hard.


----------



## Willhemmens

I doubt it. The gap was the same on the new and old chip. I'm sure it would be just as difficult to de-lid this chip before it was installed.

People only came up with that idea because it's hard to do what ever. I mean it's not like much force is put on the Adhesive anyway, it's going to be mostly on the Die as most coolers/waterblocks are bowed anyway.


----------



## Jim Pomerville

I have the H100 and recently purchased the Thermaltake 2.0 extreme .... I have the H100 in my Sabertooth and the 2.0 in my Maximus V extreme .. Same Cases - HAF 932 Full tower ,,,Same TIM ,,same chip I7 - 3770k .. The Thermaltake runscooler then the H100 ... ( Maybe the Extreme runs cooler ? )... Overclocked at 4.8 on my Maximus V Extreme ,,, My temps have never gotten past 42 -43 c ... I would buy another thermaltake before the corsair now ..you can also control the fan thru software and not have to remove the side panel ... The only real problem with the 2.0 is the mounting hardware ,,,,alittle funky but once its on ,,,its on ....

Jim


----------



## Willhemmens

They look pretty damn similar too me. Also what are you using to monitor your temps?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Nah, that fans are far from quiet.
> Bosniac, install AI Suite and open up Fan Expert 2 and click Fan Auto Tuning. You'll then be able to adjust the speeds.
> To be honest though, you probably don't even need them installed if they're annoying.


I dont hear my fans at all and AI suite for the z77 doesn't use fan expert.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> I dont hear my fans at all and AI suite for the z77 doesn't use fan expert.


You must have some pretty loud over fans or have them controlled via the UEFI. Running at 6500 RPM they're far from quiet.

Forgot that, you can install the Maximus V Extreme AI suite and it works just fine.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> You must have some pretty loud over fans or have them controlled via the UEFI. Running at 6500 RPM they're far from quiet.
> Forgot that, you can install the Maximus V Extreme AI suite and it works just fine.


No it is not the "other fans" even when I turn the PC off and the assist fans stay on for the cooling after the z77 fans can not be heard at all and in Thermal Radar my board fans are set to "Turbo", they do not produce any noise. I have seen others complain about them but I can assure you there is something wrong with some fans apparently because it is not the case on mine.


----------



## Willhemmens

Have you considered that you may be wrong?

These fans run at 6500 RPM or faster at 12V. Running at 12V they produce noise.

What speed are yours running at?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Have you considered that you may be wrong?
> These fans run at 6500 RPM or faster at 12V. Running at 12V they produce noise.
> What speed are yours running at?


You mean I dont know that I can not hear them? With the PC idle the 2 assist fans are at 4182RPM ans 4190RPM, they do not pprooduce noise on my pc i am sure of that.

Just cranked them to see, thermal radar showing 6764RPM, with those 2 fans only being turned up they dont produce noice for me and my case is 4 feet from my head.


----------



## Willhemmens

I'm saying that there's likely nothing wrong with most of these fans and that they do make noise.

If they're only running at 4100 RPM then your fans are being throttled.


----------



## Erper

have a question for you guys...
would this mobo be good upgrade from p8p67 pro or should i wait for something else.,..
i was also looking at p8z77-v mobo...


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> I'm saying that there's likely nothing wrong with most of these fans and that they do make noise.
> If they're only running at 4100 RPM then your fans are being throttled.


When the pc is at idle yes they do run at 4100 (standard curve for "Turbo" setting), as I said I just cranked them to 100% in thermal radar and mine do not produce noise, not sure why you think Im making crap up or not smart enough to know when my fans are ramping up RPM.


----------



## Willhemmens

What speed did they run at?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> What speed did they run at?


Fan control in thermal radar showiing 6764RPM


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Fan control in thermal radar showiing 6764RPM


And it's silent? I.e. you can't hear a thing?

If so, I don't believe you.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> And it's silent? I.e. you can't hear a thing?
> If so, I don't believe you.


Nothing is completely silent that is ridiculous, they dont produce enough noise to hear over normal operation of anything else, personally not concerned what you believe.


----------



## Willhemmens

A 35mm fan, running at 6700RPM, isn't going to be quiet. I have two of them and I've been working with these type of fans in servers and workstation systems for years.


----------



## Outcasst

I can hear the fan at about 2000 rpm, quite a loud high pitched whine.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> I can hear the fan at about 2000 rpm, quite a loud high pitched whine.


I understand how that could be annoying and have seen several people talking about it, I am just saying i am not experiencing that issue as others have also stated.


----------



## Augusto

I had to turn off one of these assist fans because the noise is really annoying.


----------



## Outcasst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> I understand how that could be annoying and have seen several people talking about it, I am just saying i am not experiencing that issue as others have also stated.


I think it depends on how loud your overall system is. Mine is pretty quiet so it's much more noticeable.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> I think it depends on how loud your overall system is. Mine is pretty quiet so it's much more noticeable.


I understand other fans could mask a sound but even with the side panel off I dont hear any whine type sound. My overall pc is pretty quiet, no extra fans etc, I can hear my SDD access occasionally (not sure if you know what im talking about but the occasional "bzzzt" type sound). My rpm for each assist fan when pc is idle shows 4145 and 4189 rpm, when its underload the gpu fan is the sounds i hear. I promise I am not making this up to troll people or whatever.


----------



## KMixson

You are not going crazy. My fans are silent also. I have a hard time seeing how they can hear their 30mm fans. I can not hear them at all.


----------



## Willhemmens

That's because they're being throttled. They're easily heard running at full speed. Try it, plug one into a 3 pin to molex adaptor and see for your self.


----------



## Blatsz32

USB Flashback doesn't seem to be working for me. I have 1403 and i want to roll back to 1306 due to some graphical freeze ups during gaming. I have the bios .Cap file, and the BUPUPDATE.exe on my USB. I hi tthe button, flashes, then stays solid blue for a loong time. Any suggestions?

Do I need to rename any files? When I try the updater.exe in the windows enviroment it tells me that its made for x86. I downloaded off the x64 though.


----------



## Willhemmens

Why not do it via the UEFI?


----------



## Blatsz32

won't let be roll back, says 1036 is out dated


----------



## Willhemmens

Asus site says you need to do this: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8H77-M/DE103_Z77_H77_Series_BIOS_Renaming.pdf

So you rename the .cap to Z77ST.CAP


----------



## Blatsz32

ya, usually i'm gunho about things and never read instructions..I decided to read the PDF..I got it. thank you. Hopefully this BIOS stops the freezes


----------



## Outcasst

If you're on 1403, you can't roll back. I've tried the DOS flash tool, EZ Flash and BIOS Flashback and none of them work.


----------



## Willhemmens

It seems the guy above you just did.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KMixson*
> 
> You are not going crazy. My fans are silent also. I have a hard time seeing how they can hear their 30mm fans. I can not hear them at all.


Oh I know, even though that other guy keeps saying its because they throttle, it is clearly not the case. One of the people complaining about the whine sound says its at 2000rpm, mine is 4000+ at idle, no noise. Just decided to ignore several people around here that offer "advice".


----------



## Jim Pomerville

I'm using Real temp right now , The Thermaltake software is fairly accurate too .. They are usually within a degree of each other ..


----------



## Jim Pomerville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> When the pc is at idle yes they do run at 4100 (standard curve for "Turbo" setting), as I said I just cranked them to 100% in thermal radar and mine do not produce noise, not sure why you think Im making crap up or not smart enough to know when my fans are ramping up RPM.


I agree man , My assistant fans are quiet .... Cranked right up to around 7,000 they are still fairly quiet ...


----------



## Bosniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> I agree man , My assistant fans are quiet .... Cranked right up to around 7,000 they are still fairly quiet ...


The fans are not really loud. Just annoying high pitch noise, back and forth.


----------



## Hyperion.

Hi guys! I'm building my dream computer right now and i have been trying to decide on what motherboard to use with the i5 3570k cpu i'm going to buy.

Can you guys who have had this for awhile let me know how reliable and well made it is, and how much trouble it has given you if any? Also will the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018 fit on this mobo while giving you room for crossfire? And lastly does this mobo offer true 3 way video card support(Not that i will ever use it.. i just want to know if it would be there if i wanted it)?

Any help is very much appreciated and I look forward to joining the club!

Edit: Also like to add that my case is a HAF 932. If that helps with the heatsink question.


----------



## majax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I recommend H100. The performance is similar to high end air cooler but slightly better. H100 will make your setup cleaner. And I also don't like big air cooler.


This is why I have problems picking. I like the idea of the H100 but what if it leaks? The EVO might be big but I wouldn't have to worry about anything leaking on my $400 video card.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> This is why I have problems picking. I like the idea of the H100 but what if it leaks? The EVO might be big but I wouldn't have to worry about anything leaking on my $400 video card.


I think you have as much chance of them leaking as you do fan parts flying off an air cooler and damaging things, it does appear as though Corsair takes care of the issue if it does occur. In this thread the OP was reimbursed for a video card along with the RMA of the h100.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232888/corsairs-response-to-leaking-h100

Also, I have a h50 on my sons pc for over a year and an h60 on mine, no issues at all with either. Corsair is a quality company.


----------



## Caelen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> If you're on 1403, you can't roll back. I've tried the DOS flash tool, EZ Flash and BIOS Flashback and none of them work.


I managed to do exactly that. Tried all methods including live update but got no joy.

Yesterday I tried the BIOS flashback and successfully went back to 1304 without a hitch.

maybe I was lucky


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> This is why I have problems picking. I like the idea of the H100 but what if it leaks? The EVO might be big but I wouldn't have to worry about anything leaking on my $400 video card.


The chance it can leaks is very rare. There has been few incident in the past (I can only find one or two that leaks) but Corsair have been a very good company, pay for the damaged hardware(s). Corsair H100 have 5 years warranty.


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> I think he is talking about the software for the ASUS Maximus V Gene motherboard.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/Maximus_V_GENE/ (click downloads, select your OS, click utilities, presumably dl and install the newest one)


I just finished building my new Saber 77 system. I've installed AI Suite II from the Sabertooth download page and cannot find the "Auto Tuning" application within the TurboV EVO app in AI Suite II. How do I find this Auto Tuning app?


----------



## Bobmitch

I wanted to see if I could flash back to 1304, so I used the bios flashback method...worked fine! I don't like backflashing bios, but there seem to be several issues related to 1403. The RAID issue, some graphical issues and other minor things. 1304 seemed really good at the time...will have to see what the next bios brings...


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> I just finished building my new Saber 77 system. I've installed AI Suite II from the Sabertooth download page and cannot find the "Auto Tuning" application within the TurboV EVO app in AI Suite II. How do I find this Auto Tuning app?


There isnt an auto tune app, or fan expert, on sabertooth, there is an option in the Bios for it only.


----------



## TigerDS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> This would work incase you want to try http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002CZHN6?ie=UTF8&ref_=aw_bottom_links&force-full-site=1


Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a try...


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> What is the highest we are getting with the 3570k with this board....
> Im stuck on 4.4 stable using the offset method.
> If anyone has higher please share there bios here


I have reached 4.7ghz I'll post pics some time after I get a chance to test stability


----------



## chaozzzsg

Hey guys, just checking, i am getting 4.5ghz using a -0.06 offset, is it considered good????

1 more thing, what is the difference between (-) and (+) for offset?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If you want to lower the voltage using offset you have to change to a - offset not a + offset keep in mind this will also lower your idle volts
> The caveat of Offset Mode is that the full load voltage the processor will request under load
> is impossible to predict without loading the processor fully. The base level of voltage used
> will increase in accordance with the CPU multiplier ratio. It is therefore best to start with a
> low multiplier ratio and work upwards in 1X steps while checking for stability at each
> increase. Enter the OS, load the CPU and check CPU-Z to check the voltage the CPU
> requests from the buck controller. If the level of voltage requested is very high, then you can
> reduce the full load voltage by applying a negative offset in UEFI. For example, if our full
> load voltage at 45X CPU multiplier ratio happened to be 1.40V, we could reduce that to
> 1.35V by applying a 0.05V negative offset in UEFI.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaozzzsg*
> 
> Hey guys, just checking, i am getting 4.5ghz using a -0.06 offset, is it considered good????
> 1 more thing, what is the difference between (-) and (+) for offset?












and here for more on UEFI bios tuning. http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


----------



## Trelga

Guys quick question. Does this board support tri sli? I'm getting it and a 670 ftw in my rig, then for christmas another 670, then hopefully another when i get my tax income.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> Guys quick question. Does this board support tri sli? I'm getting it and a 670 ftw in my rig, then for christmas another 670, then hopefully another when i get my tax income.


Yes it does support tri sli. Fitting three triple slot cooling solution cards no. but will not support all on x16. for example using 2 cards gives you x8 x8


----------



## Trelga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yes it does support tri sli. Fitting three triple slot cooling solution cards no.


So it could handle three 670 ftws? They are only dual slot from what i see... I won't be doing water cooling.

Also the lowered bandwidth for each PCI Slot does it affect performance at a a noticable rate?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> So it could handle three 670 ftws? They are only dual slot from what i see... I won't be doing water cooling.
> Also the lowered bandwidth for each PCI Slot does it affect performance at a a noticable rate?


Yes that card is double slot so three will fit. I will look for review i only use 1 triple slot card and have no personal experience with trip sli. seems to me dual cards would be a sweet spot.


----------



## jackbrennan2008

Anyone know why BIOS 1403 was removed from the ASUS website? I currently have it installed and am unable to flash an older BIOS (Warning about a change in BIOS framework).

Anyone know anything?


----------



## cab2

What's with the plastic cover on the mobo? Wouldn't it be cooler without? How would you blow off the dust bunnies collecting underneath?


----------



## Trelga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yes that card is double slot so three will fit. I will look for review i only use 1 triple slot card and have no personal experience with trip sli. seems to me dual cards would be a sweet spot.


Yeah looking at reviews trial sli only gains on average 4 to 5 fps

Maybe if they can work some magic in drivers it will be worth it one day.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cab2*
> 
> What's with the plastic cover on the mobo? Wouldn't it be cooler without? How would you blow off the dust bunnies collecting underneath?


Benchmarks I have seen show about 3C cooler with it on and assist fans in place, one of the features of it is to repel dust but it is removable if you chose.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackbrennan2008*
> 
> Anyone know why BIOS 1403 was removed from the ASUS website? I currently have it installed and am unable to flash an older BIOS (Warning about a change in BIOS framework).
> Anyone know anything?


I was able to on mine. Used the USB Flashback method. Takes a few minutes bot works. Change the file to Z77ST. Then load onto a flash drive. Put in the marked Intel USB 3.0 port in the rear of the machine. Press the button for 5-6 seconds. It will begin flashing. In particular, mine blinked two or three times...stopped...then about 20 seconeds later...blinked two or three more times...then started blinking like crazy...once all the blinking stopped...bios was back flashed. I now have 1304 on my MB and seems to be working fine.

Make sure to set bios to default by hitting F5 Before you try to flash. You don't want to flash any bios while overclocked. Once you set defaults...just shut down and backflash. After flashing is complete...shut down...unplug the PSU for about 2 minutes...let everything clear. When you power back up...you will see the old spash screen and are told to hit F1 to setup the board


----------



## SPMOkc73

Im really curious why it was taken down, Im not having any issues with 1403, in fact boot is faster. i hope leaving it doesnt cause damage.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Im really curious why it was taken down, Im not having any issues with 1403, in fact boot is faster. i hope leaving it doesnt cause damage.


"Supposedly" It caused some RAID configurations to fail. Once flashed...RAID couldn't be enabled. I wouldn'k know, because I have an SSD as boot drive and 1 TB drive for data, etc. The only issues I experienced was that my USB 2.0 didn't always detect when a drive was inserted. I had to unplug and re-plug to get the board to initialize my USB flash drive or external HDD. Didn't happen all the time...was sporadic. Now that I am back to 1304...the USB issue is gone. I hope they release a new bios soon. My SSD's seemed to perform a bit better on 1403. Bootup time for me is minuscule because of SSD...

I don't suspect that using 1403 will cause damage. I expect the next bios release to fix whatever was truly wrong with 1403. I am now at 1304, because I no longer have a copy of 1403. I wouldn't worry. If need be, call Asus technical support and double check that.

Let us know if you find out anything more from them...


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> "Supposedly" It caused some RAID configurations to fail. Once flashed...RAID couldn't be enabled. I wouldn'k know, because I have an SSD as boot drive and 1 TB drive for data, etc. The only issues I experienced was that my USB 2.0 didn't always detect when a drive was inserted. I had to unplug and re-plug to get the board to initialize my USB flash drive or external HDD. Didn't happen all the time...was sporadic. Now that I am back to 1304...the USB issue is gone. I hope they release a new bios soon. My SSD's seemed to perform a bit better on 1403. Bootup time for me is minuscule because of SSD...
> I don't suspect that using 1403 will cause damage. I expect the next bios release to fix whatever was truly wrong with 1403. I am now at 1304, because I no longer have a copy of 1403. I wouldn't worry. If need be, call Asus technical support and double check that.
> Let us know if you find out anything more from them...


Same here using SSD, no raid so not an issue, and only usb plug in is my G27 that has been fine, guess Ill ride it out til the next update.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Same here using SSD, no raid so not an issue, and only usb plug in is my G27 that has been fine, guess Ill ride it out til the next update.


Shouldn't be a long wait. They have been releasing bios for the board about every 3-4 weeks. 1304 was released on 7/8 and 1403 on 7/15, if I remember...


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Shouldn't be a long wait. They have been releasing bios for the board about every 3-4 weeks. 1304 was released on 7/8 and 1403 on 7/15, if I remember...


Agreed, have been very pleased with all the support I have ever received from ASUS products.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Can you post screenshots of the WHEA errors?


A corrected hardware error has occurred.

Reported by component: Processor Core
Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
Error Type: Internal parity error
Processor ID: 0

The details view of this entry contains further information.

A corrected hardware error has occurred.

Reported by component: Processor Core
Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
Error Type: Internal parity error
Processor ID: 2

The details view of this entry contains further information.

Also in regards to 1403:

Server error?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> A corrected hardware error has occurred.
> Reported by component: Processor Core
> Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
> Error Type: Internal parity error
> Processor ID: 0
> The details view of this entry contains further information.
> A corrected hardware error has occurred.
> Reported by component: Processor Core
> Error Source: Corrected Machine Check
> Error Type: Internal parity error
> Processor ID: 2
> The details view of this entry contains further information.
> Also in regards to 1403:
> Server error?


Thanks for the 1403 info. Good to know just a server error.


----------



## VashAMR

I guys, i have a real problem with this mother, as tried to enable SLI, win 7 stop to recognize 1 VGA, and the screen put on low resolution, the nvidia drivers disappear, cannot enable it, install 301.42 all work fine, but when enable sli, sli not work, when i do apply (maximo rendimiento option) disappear nvidia drivers and i have to install again.

I test.
1) Changing SLI bridge
2) Download lastest drivers.
3) Reinstalling windows.

some of you would pass something?

The PC

Processador: i5 3570k NEW
Mother: sabertooth z77 NEW
VGA`s: SLI 570 twin forz III
Power supply: Fatal1ty 750w.
RAM: Generic rams.

Sorry for my english :/

PROBLEM SOLVED...

BIOS UPDATE SOLVE THE PROBLEM.xD!


----------



## elSuperhans

Hey guys. I recently purchased a Sabertooth x77 with an Ivy Bridge 3770k to accompany it. I have been trying to overclock to provide more power to my gaming stream, however, I cannot for the life of me get it to save any overclocking settings I try to apply. Is there something that I'm missing here or is something wrong? I adjust the ratio as necessary, however the fact of there being turbo boost related frequencies and multipliers are throwing me off a bit. I can't even get started on testing and trial and error seeing how I can't even get it to 3.6 Ghz at all. Every time I set the settings I load CPU-Z to check if the frequency has changed and nothing. Even under load while streaming I see the processor staying at the 35th multiplier and providing a steady 3.5 Ghz. Can anyone please provide any input?

Here's my setup.
Processor - Intel Ivy Bridge 3770k
Mobo - Asus Sabertooth z77
RAM - Corsair Vengeance 16 GB
GPU - eVGA 670 2GB
BIOS - v. 1304
I have also noticed that the GPU has been running at PCIe 2.0. Correct me if I'm wrong but my research led me to believe that a Z77 board paired with Ivy would take advantage of PCIe 3.0. Along with this I have noticed that CPU-Z and Asus Ai Suite is telling me that only two cores are currently in use or even visible at any given time.

Thanks.

Edit : Changed GPU to 670GTX.


----------



## kizwan

Yes, Ivy Bridge does support PCIe rev 3.0 but GTX570 only support PCIe 2.0. So, it will only negotiate PCIe 2.0 link. (EDIT: typo in elSuperhans's post)

Regarding overclock, did you set "CPU Ratio"? Set it back to Auto. In UEFI, under "AI Tweaker", set "Turbo Ratio" = "By All Cores". Then set "By All Cores" = [multiplier, for example 37].


----------



## elSuperhans

I actually have a 670GTX, however, I didn't notice I had put down a 570. I myself am unable to find where the by all cores option is. Also, do you have any thoughts as to why AiSuite, CPU-Z, etc. are only showing the fact that only two cores are present.

Edit : When I go to see the available options for Turbo ratio all I get are auto and manual.


----------



## kizwan

Probably you need to set "Gen3" in UEFI for PCIe 3.0 support. Check that out.

EDIT: If GPU-Z reported "PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ *x16 2.0*", click the "?" next to it & click "Start Render Test". See whether GPU-Z is now reported "PCI-E 3.0 x16 @ *x16 3.0*" or not. It probably just GPU power saving feature.

I checked Sabertooth Z77 UEFI BIOS at youtube & it show you should be able to change "Turbo Ratio" = "By All Cores". If only "Auto" or "Manual", try "Manual". Another option for multiplier should be visible after you set to "Manual". Set multiplier there.


----------



## elSuperhans

That's what I have been doing but with no success. There is no option other than to be able to modify the multiplier and it automatically applies to all and one other. The other option is to individually modify each core itself to the desired multiply, however, there's no dice when using these options. One thing I was wondering was that I have been using IBT to run the CPU under load and see if turbo kicks in. Even with the stock turbo frequency it never reaches the supposed 3.9 Ghz ceiling. Could there be something else wrong or am I just not waiting enough time to see the turbo frequencies start to kick in?

Edit : With your advice I can confirm that PCIe is running at Gen 3 levels. I also noticed that other features such as XMP Profiles and the OC Tuner aren't functional at all. Although I'd rather do it manually can these failures show a problem with my current motherboard? I also had to override the CPU Fan check and set it to ignore. Could the fact that a CPU fan not being present doesn't allow the BIOS to apply the OC settings on the OS level?


----------



## kizwan

Turbo boost should kicked in immediately when CPU under load. I can't tell what is the problem. Maybe motherboard problem. When you set "AI Overclock Tuner" to XMP, can you confirmed with CPU-Z (Memory tab), the setting does take effect? How many XMP profiles your RAM support?

BTW, did you forgot to press Enter after entering the number (for the multiplier)? CPU fan plugged in to CPU fan header on the motherboard but it failed to detect the fan?

Please post screenshots of the UEFI setttings. You can take screenshot by pressing F12. You just need to plugged in USB flash drive (fat32) & when pressing F12, it will save the screenshot in the USB flash drive.


----------



## SPMOkc73

1403 is back up on ASUS site, apparently the server error response was correct.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> That's what I have been doing but with no success. There is no option other than to be able to modify the multiplier and it automatically applies to all and one other. The other option is to individually modify each core itself to the desired multiply, however, there's no dice when using these options. One thing I was wondering was that I have been using IBT to run the CPU under load and see if turbo kicks in. Even with the stock turbo frequency it never reaches the supposed 3.9 Ghz ceiling. Could there be something else wrong or am I just not waiting enough time to see the turbo frequencies start to kick in?
> Edit : With your advice I can confirm that PCIe is running at Gen 3 levels. I also noticed that other features such as XMP Profiles and the OC Tuner aren't functional at all. Although I'd rather do it manually can these failures show a problem with my current motherboard? I also had to override the CPU Fan check and set it to ignore. Could the fact that a CPU fan not being present doesn't allow the BIOS to apply the OC settings on the OS level?


I see you are running 1304 rev bios. Have you tried 1403? Bios updates have been solving issues for some..Several pages back someone else had the problem of not being able to save any overclock settings ..cant remember who it was. I will try to find it. but your problem has been discussed before. Have you tried resetting your cmos?


----------



## garikfox

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1403 with updated RAID OROM 11.5.0.1582

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/dl-asus-p67-z68-bioss-with-updated-raid-rom


----------



## elSuperhans

I updated the BIOS last night and no problems have been solved. When it comes to running XMP Profiles or even the OC Tuner the computer boots, the RAM LED goes on, and then promptly restarts just to fail again. In terms of the CPU fan I read that it can be set to be ignored seeing how the BIOS wouldn't initially detect it. What I don't get is why seeing how the Corsair fans that came with my H80 have plenty of speed to be recognized at bootup. And yes, I have reset my CMOS, however, just through the jumper method. It's necesary for me to reset it every time I try and get X.M.P to work. I"ll have screenshots up shortly.

AI Tweaker 1



AI Tweaker 2



CPU Config



CPU Config 2



Digi Power Control



CPU Power Management



Running a quick IBT to see if the multiplier reflects the changes in the BIOS


----------



## Outcasst

Man I've just about had it with trying to downgrade my BIOS.

Asus Update Utility = Fails
EZ Flash BIOS Utility = Fails
Asus DOS Flash Utility = Fails
Asus USB Flashback = Fails
AMI Flash Utility = Fails

I think 1403 really screwed up my BIOS chip. I can't even flash to 1403 again with the updated RAID ROM.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> I updated the BIOS last night and no problems have been solved. When it comes to running XMP Profiles or even the OC Tuner the computer boots, the RAM LED goes on, and then promptly restarts just to fail again. In terms of the CPU fan I read that it can be set to be ignored seeing how the BIOS wouldn't initially detect it. What I don't get is why seeing how the Corsair fans that came with my H80 have plenty of speed to be recognized at bootup. And yes, I have reset my CMOS, however, just through the jumper method. It's necesary for me to reset it every time I try and get X.M.P to work. I"ll have screenshots up shortly.
> AI Tweaker 1
> 
> AI Tweaker 2
> 
> CPU Config
> 
> CPU Config 2
> 
> Digi Power Control
> 
> CPU Power Management
> 
> Running a quick IBT to see if the multiplier reflects the changes in the BIOS


Quick question for you .. go into device manager and see how many cores are listed under processors. And is this a clean install of windows? Have you manually set your ram instead of using a XMP profile..are they rated for xmp? What model of vengeance are those sticks? If you set your current bios to full auto ..no overclocking what is reported in CPU Z


----------



## elSuperhans

According to DM there are eight cores.



And yes this is off a clean install. However, I was planning on doing another fresh install when I get back from work.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> According to DM there are eight cores.
> 
> And yes this is off a clean install. However, I was planning on doing another fresh install when I get back from work.


Ok im searching around a bit for you.. need some other info from your ram modules.. Model#


----------



## elSuperhans

I'd like to thank you as well.

Here's the RAM model.

Corsair Memory Vengeance 16 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> I'd like to thank you as well.
> Here's the RAM model.
> Corsair Memory Vengeance 16 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM
> CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9


ok thats rated xmp.. this might provide some insight for you if you havent read it yet
http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69 uefi tuning guide


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> According to DM there are eight cores.
> 
> And yes this is off a clean install. However, I was planning on doing another fresh install when I get back from work.


That is correct 8 virtual cores due to hyper threading adding one virtual core to each actual core shots of a stable 3570k at 4.5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Overclocking is easy on this board,
> Currently stable on the newest bios with 4.5 on the 3570k, Here are some pics of the bios menu.
> All you have to do is plug in a usb, go into the bios and F12 will screenshot your bios right onto the usb stick ( Brilliant )
> Go into your bios and advanced mode,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those who have a water cooling set up with no CPU fan set to ignore.


----------



## elSuperhans

Thanks for clarifying that. Between XMP not working and the settings not applied when manually put in I'm at a loss. I was able to get the OC Tuner to work and it set the CPU at a frequency of 4.2. However, whenever I stress test the machine CPU-Z/ASUS AI Suite doesn't show any change in the multiplier/frequency under load. I might just do another fresh install of Windows to see if that can fix the problem which I have my doubts about."

Edit: Just saw the edited portion of your post. I"ll try it out after work today.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> Thanks for clarifying that. Between XMP not working and the settings not applied when manually put in I'm at a loss. I was able to get the OC Tuner to work and it set the CPU at a frequency of 4.2. However, whenever I stress test the machine CPU-Z/ASUS AI Suite doesn't show any change in the multiplier/frequency under load. I might just do another fresh install of Windows to see if that can fix the problem which I have my doubts about.


try a different version of cpu-z..1.61.2 instead of .3 and O.C.C.T for stress testing
http://www.ocbase.com/


----------



## Hanoverfist

and in reguards to using AI suite read here....
http://www.overclock.net/t/117686/asus-ai-suite its really old but some good advice as to not use and just overclock in the bios.. dont use overclocking software


----------



## elSuperhans

I will be sure to not include it when I reinstall the OS. I have mostly just been using it for monitoring purposes, however, I"ll just use the other available options.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> I will be sure to not include it when I reinstall the OS. I have mostly just been using it for monitoring purposes, however, I"ll just use the other available options.


That is your best option.. do not use overclocking software.. Overclock by setting bios options and use other monitoring to see results..


----------



## elSuperhans

Thanks. I"ll keep you posted on how it all works out.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

I had to settle on a multiplier of 44 to get %100 stable....

All settings are the same as posted above except obviously the multi.

If anyone is getting higher clocks that are proven to be stable please do share.

I also used tried auto tune in the bios it gave me an overclock of 4.2 but crashed within 5 mins of prime95.

The offset method is proving to be the most stable.


----------



## Blatsz32

Bios 1403 is now back on the Asus website. It address the 670 freezing issue, which wasn't a "fix" the last time it was there.

Hey Hurtin, how are you able to get a 1.28voltage with a 0.005 offset? I find that strange. I have to use a 0.060 offset to get 1.28 and 0.050 to get a 1.25v.. wonderif I have some wrong settings somewhere.

CPU-Z
core speed- 4532.8
multiplier- x44
bus speed- 103.0
max voltage at 1.280 ( fluctuating 1.232 as my lowest)

Memory
DRAM Frequency- 961.6
Lowest
Max
Memory

Yes i'm 24/7 stable


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Bios 1403 is now back on the Asus website. It address the 670 freezing issue, which wasn't a "fix" the last time it was there.
> Hey Hurtin, how are you able to get a 1.28voltage with a 0.005 offset? I find that strange. I have to use a 0.060 offset to get 1.28 and 0.050 to get a 1.25v.. wonderif I have some wrong settings somewhere.
> CPU-Z
> core speed- 4532.8
> multiplier- x44
> bus speed- 103.0
> max voltage at 1.280 ( fluctuating 1.232 as my lowest)
> 
> Memory
> DRAM Frequency- 961.6
> Lowest
> Max
> Memory
> Yes i'm 24/7 stable


Can you post your bios settings for us please. ( Plug in flash drive and hit F12 while in bios it screenshots and saves the picture to the drive )

At a guess I would say you have not disabled CPU Spread Spectrum.

Your CPUZ should show a constant clock speed of 4500.

What methods have you used to check your stability also.


----------



## Willhemmens

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1403
1.Improve Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
4.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

It's out again: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1403.zip


----------



## elSuperhans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> That is your best option.. do not use overclocking software.. Overclock by setting bios options and use other monitoring to see results..


Alright. I did a fresh install, avoided using ASUS Ai Suite, and was actually able to get a successful 4.2 Ghz OC. I didn't run Prime 95 for more than an hour, however, I did stream. I noticed that my fans were way too loud for my stream's sound output so I swapped the stock Corsair fans for some Yate Loons. Immediately after that I noticed that the system went back to its old ways by sticking at a 35x multiplier and not even budging under load. I also noticed that when applying a multiplier in the BIOS to fix the issue no immediate changes in other relevant settings are made as I noticed earlier with the successful OC. Any thoughts on what I could do at this point?


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> Alright. I did a fresh install, avoided using ASUS Ai Suite, and was actually able to get a successful 4.2 Ghz OC. I didn't run Prime 95 for more than an hour, however, I did stream. I noticed that my fans were way too loud for my stream's sound output so I swapped the stock Corsair fans for some Yate Loons. Immediately after that I noticed that the system went back to its old ways by sticking at a 35x multiplier and not even budging under load. I also noticed that when applying a multiplier in the BIOS to fix the issue no immediate changes in other relevant settings are made as I noticed earlier with the successful OC. Any thoughts on what I could do at this point?


Make sure under the advanced tab in the BIOS, in the cpu configuration selection, and finally in CPU power management the CPU ratio set to auto.


----------



## Leander999

Hey guys!







I got a Sabertooth z77 in my HAF X, please add me to the club!


----------



## qualitypro

Hi Folks!

Just finished my build with ASUS Sabertooth Z77 , Intel core i7 3770k, corsair vengeance 32G RAM, NVIDIA GEOFORCE 640, CORSAIR H60, Corsait T600 Graphite case.
ALL RUNNING OpenSUSE LINUX BEAUTIFULLY. No hassle..put the machine together and pressed power and everything worked...now working on my overclocking profile.

Will be posting video of my initial milestone...will be expanding this system in the future.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qualitypro*
> 
> Hi Folks!
> Just finished my build with ASUS Sabertooth Z77 , Intel core i7 3770k, corsair vengeance 32G RAM, NVIDIA GEOFORCE 640, CORSAIR H60, Corsait T600 Graphite case.
> ALL RUNNING OpenSUSE LINUX BEAUTIFULLY. No hassle..put the machine together and pressed power and everything worked...now working on my overclocking profile.
> Will be posting video of my initial milestone...will be expanding this system in the future.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a Sabertooth z77 in my HAF X, please add me to the club!


Nice work and welcome. The more the merrier.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> Alright. I did a fresh install, avoided using ASUS Ai Suite, and was actually able to get a successful 4.2 Ghz OC. I didn't run Prime 95 for more than an hour, however, I did stream. I noticed that my fans were way too loud for my stream's sound output so I swapped the stock Corsair fans for some Yate Loons. Immediately after that I noticed that the system went back to its old ways by sticking at a 35x multiplier and not even budging under load. I also noticed that when applying a multiplier in the BIOS to fix the issue no immediate changes in other relevant settings are made as I noticed earlier with the successful OC. Any thoughts on what I could do at this point?



Elsuperhans, I'm not thinking its a software issue. have you tried reseating your cpu? Also, make sure that all your screws aren't super tight holding down your mobo.

If you do plan on reseating, try and check the pins on your socket....please lay the board down on its back. I had the same issue as yourself and it turned out I had a bad contact with the socket to cpu...I reseated my waterblock while the case was still standing and it bent some of my pins. This is the worst case scenario btw. I ended up having to buy a new mobo as bending pins due to stupidity isn't covered under warranty


----------



## qualitypro

I uploaded this video of my completed Z77 milestone to you tube...please check it out!














THIS MOBO IS AWESOME EVEN with Linux drivers!!!

FYI...this machine in no way qualifies as an "extreme hardware overclocker rig" although, I compiled all the drivers myself, from source (not an easy undertaking).


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elSuperhans*
> 
> Alright. I did a fresh install, avoided using ASUS Ai Suite, and was actually able to get a successful 4.2 Ghz OC. I didn't run Prime 95 for more than an hour, however, I did stream. I noticed that my fans were way too loud for my stream's sound output so I swapped the stock Corsair fans for some Yate Loons. Immediately after that I noticed that the system went back to its old ways by sticking at a 35x multiplier and not even budging under load. I also noticed that when applying a multiplier in the BIOS to fix the issue no immediate changes in other relevant settings are made as I noticed earlier with the successful OC. Any thoughts on what I could do at this point?


. At this point the fact that your BIOS is not holding manually imputed settings has been confirmed by Blatz and he was able to fix ..although his situation that caused this may or may not be your problem as well. I personally have never had a board with this problem. And if you can't fix by following what Blatz did then RMA might be what is needed.


----------



## Bruennis

Can someone within the next hour convince me as to why I should pick this board and pay the premium over the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> Can someone within the next hour convince me as to why I should pick this board and pay the premium over the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H?


If you need all the extra features of the gigabyte board then buy it. Sabertooth wins the bueaty contest hands down without all those extra features which frankly I personally did not need.


----------



## Trelga

Anyone here ever taken the thermal armor off and painted it? Not really thinking about doing it but bored at work and curious.


----------



## Willhemmens

I haven't had mine on from day one. It just seems pretty plastic.

I'm not scared of temps or anything, I just don't like it.


----------



## Trelga

^^ So I'm guessing you can paint it lol


----------



## elSuperhans

That's what I'm thinking. I just finished reseating the CPU and saw that a new one was detected. I plugged in all the settings, verified them, and saved them. Even then it still stayed the same. I'm gonna contact Newegg to setup an RMA.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trelga*
> 
> Anyone here ever taken the thermal armor off and painted it? Not really thinking about doing it but bored at work and curious.


Paint the armor? Painted SB sink


----------



## Blatsz32

Hanover, after you took off the SB sink what did you wiht the TIM? Did you just clean it up and apply new stuff or did you put it right back? I'd like to apply some new TIM if its possible to lower temps.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Hanover, after you took off the SB sink what did you wiht the TIM? Did you just clean it up and apply new stuff or did you put it right back? I'd like to apply some new TIM if its possible to lower temps.


Yeah i removed that pink crap and reapplied with pk1


----------



## majax

I now have the Sabertooth Z77 and a Hyper 212 Evo. I was wondering if there were any recommendations for memory that is low profile?

Right now this is the one I'm thinking of getting:

Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186

However, a lot of people have recommended G.Skill. Is there any difference between the aforementioned memory and this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majax*
> 
> I now have the Sabertooth Z77 and a Hyper 212 Evo. I was wondering if there were any recommendations for memory that is low profile?
> Right now this is the one I'm thinking of getting:
> Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186
> However, a lot of people have recommended G.Skill. Is there any difference between the aforementioned memory and this:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314


Physically yes the corsair is lower in profile.. other wise they have the same timings at 1.5v, oh the gskill is cheaper.. get the corsair It will default to something lower than 1600 but you cant set in the bios easily to run 1600..the black matches the board nicely


----------



## Chillie

Hey guys I have been hearing of a lot of issues with the latest BIOS from Asus. I've also read they have supposedly re-release the BIOS, is it worth updating my BIOS???


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Hey guys I have been hearing of a lot of issues with the latest BIOS from Asus. I've also read they have supposedly re-release the BIOS, is it worth updating my BIOS???


If your not having any issues I would keep what you got now. It's some fixes for 670 freezing issuues or something . What I read is that there server had problems and that's why it wasnot being seen on the site but you can believe what you want with that story.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If your not having any issues I would keep what you got now. It's some fixes for 670 freezing issuues or something . What I read is that there server had problems and that's why it wasnot being seen on the site but you can believe what you want with that story.


I agree with you. I am having no problems gonna stick with 1015. Thanks.


----------



## Zantrill

I've never upgraded the bios... is that bad? Not having any probs. Will be upgradeing to a 680 in about a month. Will I have probs then?


----------



## JJohnson1988

What fabulous prizes have I won?


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJohnson1988*
> 
> What fabulous prizes have I won?


You won pink fat blobs in a green grass by yourself... congrats!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Zantril..you dont need to update your bios if your not having any issues..If its not broken Dont Fix..








Next month when you upgrade, and IF you experience some issues then yes try a different revision:thumb:


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

So there is no problem removing the thermal armor and not using those high-RPM fans? I'm not in an industrial/dusty environment. I wish I had done this so as not to need the small fans and have to listen to their noise (they're not loud, but I can hear them)... plus wouldn't the thermal armor act like a heat trap if the fans fail?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> So there is no problem removing the thermal armor and not using those high-RPM fans? I'm not in an industrial/dusty environment. I wish I had done this so as not to need the small fans and have to listen to their noise (they're not loud, but I can hear them)... plus wouldn't the thermal armor act like a heat trap if the fans fail?


.
No problem at all running without it. I assume you have some air flow in your case anyway.


----------



## axs01

I ask your help, I want to know if the Sabertooth Z77 is compatible with memory Corsair CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 Vengeance
is curious since the Web page does not appear *CORSAIR* CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10 (XMP) 32GB (8GBx4) DS - 10-10-10-27 1.50V but if it appears in the list of QVL for ASUS 7 Series, http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z77-V_LX/7series-8GB-QVL.pdf Sorry for so much trouble but here in mexico just sell CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 and therefore wanted to know if I could be compatible

thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axs01*
> 
> I ask your help, I want to know if the Sabertooth Z77 is compatible with memory Corsair CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 Vengeance
> is curious since the Web page does not appear *CORSAIR* CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10 (XMP) 32GB (8GBx4) DS - 10-10-10-27 1.50V but if it appears in the list of QVL for ASUS 7 Series, http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z77-V_LX/7series-8GB-QVL.pdf Sorry for so much trouble but here in mexico just sell CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 and therefore wanted to know if I could be compatible
> thanks


I can not be 100% positive but from looking at the specs of both, they share Identical timings and voltage.. That 32G is just a value for the kit size and you list a single stick 8G.. I would be willing to bet it would work.

Here's the meaning of each section in a bit more detail:

(1..2) Module Type
C XMS classic (old) heat spreader
X XMS classic (new) heat spreader
Z Vengeance series (all 1.5v)
D Dominator
P D but with something added
G GT with Airflow II
GS GT single module
T G but with something added
R Retail
E Non-Registered ECC
S Registered ECC
SO SoDIMM
N SoDIMM (N for notebook/netbook)
V Value Select (or equivalent)

#G Total Part Number Density
1G 1 GB
2G 2 GB
3G 3 GB
4G 4 GB
6G 6 GB
8G 8 GB
12G 12 GB
24G 24 GB

X# Memory Tech
X1 DDR1
X2 DDR2
X3 DDR3

M# # of Modules
M1 1 Module Kit
M2 2 Module Kit
M3 3 Module Kit
M4 4 Module Kit
M6 6 Module Kit

(1..2) Revision
A Made and tested for dual / triple channel systems
B Made and tested for dual / triple channel systems
C Made and tested for dual / triple channel systems
X Made and tested for quad channel systems

# Speed
800 800 MHz
1066 1066 MHz
1333 1333 MHz
1600 1600 MHz
1866 1866 MHz
2000 2000 MHz
2133 2133 MHz
2200 2200 MHz
2400 2400 MHz

C# CAS Latency
C1 CL1
C2 CL2
C3 CL3
C4 CL4
C5 CL5
C6 CL6
C7 CL7
C8 CL8
C9 CL9
C10 CL10

Here's what each section of the part number means:

Code Meaning
(1..2) Module Type
#G Total Part Number Density
X# Memory Tech (DDR1 / DDR2 / DDR3)
M# Module Quantity (Number of Modules)
(1..2) Revision
# Speed (MHz)
C# CAS Latency

So, applying this to the example gets us:

Part # Meaning
D Dominator
8G Kit contains 8 GB of memory
X3 DDR3
M4 4 Modules in the kit
A Revision A
1600 1600 MHz
C8 CAS Latency

So your only difference is X being quad channel tested and A being dual channel tested
__________________


----------



## axs01

Thank you very much for such detailed explanation really appreciate it, hope it works well and I have no q many options to buy here in mexico so will try to CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axs01*
> 
> Thank you very much for such detailed explanation really appreciate it, hope it works well and I have no q many options to buy here in mexico so will try to CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10


----------



## Leander999

Hello again ! Im having a very annoying problem with my motherboard and RAM, the deal is, Im having the black vengeance 4x4 1600mhz RAM and as you can see on the pictures I posted earlier , Im only using 2 Dimms. The reason for that is because when I put all Dimms in my motherboard, its bluescreening at boot, suddenly I cant do anything, it works fine with 3 dimms in any slots but not 4. the MemOK! seems fine and the BIOS is on X.M.P. and set to 1600mhz, it worked for about 1 week then all of a sudden my pc just went to h and all problems started coming, now my pc is stable on 2 Dimms but If I put in the others it will Bluescreen, and ofc I wanna use what I paid for so do any have a solution for my problems? also Ive seen alot of people using same RAM and the set is on the "supported" list on ASUS sites... please help!

-Leander


----------



## rmorse27

From Asus website.

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1403
1.Improve Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
4.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> I've never upgraded the bios... is that bad? Not having any probs. Will be upgradeing to a 680 in about a month. Will I have probs then?


SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1403
1.Improve Improve system stability.
2.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
3. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
4.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> Hello again ! Im having a very annoying problem with my motherboard and RAM, the deal is, Im having the black vengeance 4x4 1600mhz RAM and as you can see on the pictures I posted earlier , Im only using 2 Dimms. The reason for that is because when I put all Dimms in my motherboard, its bluescreening at boot, suddenly I cant do anything, it works fine with 3 dimms in any slots but not 4. the MemOK! seems fine and the BIOS is on X.M.P. and set to 1600mhz, it worked for about 1 week then all of a sudden my pc just went to h and all problems started coming, now my pc is stable on 2 Dimms but If I put in the others it will Bluescreen, and ofc I wanna use what I paid for so do any have a solution for my problems? also Ive seen alot of people using same RAM and the set is on the "supported" list on ASUS sites... please help!
> -Leander


Have you tested each stick Individually using dimm A2 to verify they all work? And what bios are you using? Full model number of the modules if you got it.

Also found this using the search thread feature..searched " ram issues"
Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by thegane20100
> 
> ihave 4 sticks when i instal the for the system hangs on red ram led
> Had the same issue with mine when I first put it together. I found I could only use one stick, but after I updated to the latest bios all was fine with all four. If you have to, just use one stick to get everything up and running, then flash to new bios..


In that situation Bios update to latest Rev. worked


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If your not having any issues I would keep what you got now. It's some fixes for 670 freezing issuues or something . What I read is that there server had problems and that's why it wasnot being seen on the site but you can believe what you want with that story.


Release date is different "2012.07.31".
Tonight I'll compare both old and new bios files to see if there is any binary difference between them.
I bet the 1st one was flawed and they took it down on purpose.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Release date is different "2012.07.31".
> Tonight I'll compare both old and new bios files to see if there is any binary difference between them.
> I bet the 1st one was flawed and they took it down on purpose.


It did seem a little strange. I bet there was something wrong with it and thats just the story their going with...


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> It did seem a little strange. I bet there was something wrong with it and thats just the story their going with...


That is exactly what I thought when I was re-posted. I noticed the difference in the date. Don't have the old file for comparison purposes...I just know that there were RAID issues with the original and a few other issues.


----------



## Leander999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have you tested each stick Individually using dimm A2 to verify they all work? And what bios are you using? Full model number of the modules if you got it.
> Also found this using the search thread feature..searched " ram issues"
> In that situation Bios update to latest Rev. worked


Hey! Im using BIOS v.1206 and the model numer is CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9 or do you mean the numer for each individual stick?
if so its
723940
723971
723972
723973

Im not sure about the 40 but i think that is right. I havent tried each individually but in pairs so there should not be something wrong with a stick


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> Hey! Im using BIOS v.1206 and the model numer is CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9 or do you mean the numer for each individual stick?
> if so its
> 723940
> 723971
> 723972
> 723973
> 
> Im not sure about the 40 but i think that is right. I havent tried each individually but in pairs so there should not be something wrong with a stick


Ok... ram issues have been sovled in the past by flashing to the latest bios found here 1403 is what you want. try that
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/

using USB bios flashback is probably the easiest way that i have ever seen 2-43 of the manual.. And dont forget to rename the .CAP file to Z77ST.CAP You can do the actual flash while system is off..so power down


----------



## Leander999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Ok... ram issues have been sovled in the past by flashing to the latest bios found here 1403 is what you want. try that
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/
> using USB bios flashback is probably the easiest way that i have ever seen 2-43 of the manual.. And dont forget to rename the .CAP file to Z77ST.CAP You can do the actual flash while system is off..so power down


okey so I did flash to the new bios, I booted up with all bricks, the MemOK! blinked and the "starting windows" loading screen came up, it bluescreened and I tried some other times, I think I saw something like "0x0000007E" (dont know about the amount of "0") so I took out the two I added and replaced them with the ones that have worked for a while and it bluescreened! I was very confused, I replaced them and now the computer work as before with two Dimms, also the computer refuses to autoboot on my ssd so I manually have to go in the bios to boot on it!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> okey so I did flash to the new bios, I booted up with all bricks, the MemOK! blinked and the "starting windows" loading screen came up, it bluescreened and I tried some other times, I think I saw something like "0x0000007E" (dont know about the amount of "0") so I took out the two I added and replaced them with the ones that have worked for a while and it bluescreened! I was very confused, I replaced them and now the computer work as before with two Dimms, also the computer refuses to autoboot on my ssd so I manually have to go in the bios to boot on it!


I would try re seating the cpu and if that doesnt work the cpu itself could have a faulty mem controller or the board itself is at fault.. somebody has a guide to what blue screen numbers actually mean i cant remember where though.. that would help


----------



## Leander999

That's kinda scary but I will try if I cant get it to work, also my sound wont work after the update, it says it has a driverproblem, exactly what happened to my networkcard, I had to reinstall windows to fix it... this computer is really driving me crazy... only brings problems.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> That's kinda scary but I will try if I cant get it to work, also my sound wont work after the update, it says it has a driverproblem, exactly what happened to my networkcard, I had to reinstall windows to fix it... this computer is really driving me crazy... only brings problems.


guys have also had success with older bios revisions as well so dont count them out you could try 1015 or 1304 and i know this sounds like a bummer but reading through this thread can yield some results as well..It takes awhile but you can sometimes catch a guy that has had your exact problems.


----------



## Leander999

If I re seat my cpu, quickly out and in, do I have do clean and put on some new thermal paste?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> If I re seat my cpu, quickly out and in, do I have do clean and put on some new thermal paste?


Yes and take your time...carefully..dont bend those socket pins..lay the case down.. pretend your performing open heart surgery...


----------



## Leander999

damnit ! dont have thermal paste laying around







haha yes I will! also when I installed it first time and took down the lever thingy there were som reaally scary crickely crackin noises and my heart almost died... do you think that might be the problem?


----------



## whitestsand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Oh I know, even though that other guy keeps saying its because they throttle, it is clearly not the case. One of the people complaining about the whine sound says its at 2000rpm, mine is 4000+ at idle, no noise. Just decided to ignore several people around here that offer "advice".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> I agree man , My assistant fans are quiet .... Cranked right up to around 7,000 they are still fairly quiet ...


Before I got my ST board I had read thru most of this forum and was concerned about the whine of the small fans.

It does not matter what speed I run them at mine are very quiet. Not saying that others are not getting an annoying
whine but I don't









Lighting had fried my ASRock EX4 Gen3 so I switched to Asus Sabertooth







I was very amazed when ASRock RMAed me a new board,
guess I will save some money for an i7 3770k and start a rebuild with the i7 2600k and the ASRock Ex4........

I am using the newest bios 1403 with no problems............Thanks for all the good advice.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> damnit ! dont have thermal paste laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha yes I will! also when I installed it first time and took down the lever thingy there were som reaally scary crickely crackin noises and my heart almost died... do you think that might be the problem?


From where i am sitting its impossible for me to say.. It does take some force but cracking sounds hmmmm.. I dont know man..when you take your chip out be careful and inspect all those pins make sure nothing is bent


----------



## Leander999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> From where i am sitting its impossible for me to say.. It does take some force but cracking sounds hmmmm.. I dont know man..when you take your chip out be careful and inspect all those pins make sure nothing is bent


well thanks for the help! just tested each DIMM on the A2 socket, all of them worked, Im currently running stable on 3 DIMMs


----------



## razalom

Well finally ordered one of these as my old X58 was getting a little long in the tooth. Also grabbed the i5 3570k as well as some G Skill RAM and a 120gb SSD Drive. Hopefully should arrive early next week.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> well thanks for the help! just tested each DIMM on the A2 socket, all of them worked, Im currently running stable on 3 DIMMs


So reseating the cpu helped?


----------



## billythekid2012

Are the drives and software on the asus update site up todate

Iam trying to find the newest driver for the z77 sabertooth,

Here is my build i thing the sabertooth looks so nice and clean


----------



## Caelen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> That is exactly what I thought when I was re-posted. I noticed the difference in the date. Don't have the old file for comparison purposes...I just know that there were RAID issues with the original and a few other issues.


I have the original 1403 and compared with the new one, they are identical.
No idea why it was pulled and then re-released, but I'm not going to update as I had issues with 1403 and had to downgrade to1304 to solve.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Are the drives and software on the asus update site up todate
> Iam trying to find the newest driver for the z77 sabertooth,
> Here is my build i thing the sabertooth looks so nice and clean


Yes it is up to date. Not sure What Driver exactly you mean.


----------



## Leander999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> So reseating the cpu helped?


nono, dont have thermal paste, just tested each dimm to check and wanted to thank you for trying to help me







!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leander999*
> 
> nono, dont have thermal paste, just tested each dimm to check and wanted to thank you for trying to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


----------



## Jim Pomerville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Well finally ordered one of these as my old X58 was getting a little long in the tooth. Also grabbed the i5 3570k as well as some G Skill RAM and a 120gb SSD Drive. Hopefully should arrive early next week.


You wont be disappointed with your choice ,i don't think ... Right now i have three Z77 boards ,,, ASRock professional , Maximus V extreme and the Sabertooth ... My Sabertooth has been running flawless ,,,I cant say that about the other 2 ... buggy as all hell so far with them ..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Now that is Sexy





More on this MOD http://rog.asus.com/137662012/news/armorsuit-sabertooth-z77-mod-by-paul-tan/


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Another day another issue,

Anyone found a cure for this problem.


----------



## Blatsz32

i get that error as well Hurtin, it seems that the OS looses the driver. Currently I have it installed but it's not kicking in. to be honest, i don't really care. i don't use VMVP..its terrible.

The way I think about it, if you have a discreet graphics card theres really no need for it. I'm just going to uninstall it. I'm running to Asus gtx570s CUIIs in SLI so no need for it.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> i get that error as well Hurtin, it seems that the OS looses the driver. Currently I have it installed but it's not kicking in. to be honest, i don't really care. i don't use VMVP..its terrible.
> The way I think about it, if you have a discreet graphics card theres really no need for it. I'm just going to uninstall it. I'm running to Asus gtx570s CUIIs in SLI so no need for it.


I got it working, I did not have the intergraded graphics card drivers installed.









I also heard that it does have problems with SLI set ups.


----------



## Trip99

Hi guys, I have this board and I5-3570 OC to 4.4 and stable in all tests. I do have one problem though that may or may not be board related. When I wake the machine from sleep it resets and I get the windows error about not shutting down properly. Anyone know what could be causing this?

p.s. I have the latest BIOS installed


----------



## billythekid2012

HI guys, I just started getting this message on my disktop after a reboot.
Does any of you know what it means or how do i fix it.

I just did a new install of the os like 2 days ago


----------



## Omnicurse

Been running everything you see in my sig on this motherboard since early June, nothing has died so far, the 2 small TUFF fans are still bangin, not making a peep. I keep my machine on almost 24/7, This was my first asus motherboard in a long time and i have 0 regrets, Everything works flawlessly


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omnicurse*
> 
> Been running everything you see in my sig on this motherboard since early June, nothing has died so far, the 2 small TUFF fans are still bangin, not making a peep. I keep my machine on almost 24/7, This was my first asus motherboard in a long time and i have 0 regrets, Everything works flawlessly


Now that is good to hear


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> Hi guys, I have this board and I5-3570 OC to 4.4 and stable in all tests. I do have one problem though that may or may not be board related. When I wake the machine from sleep it resets and I get the windows error about not shutting down properly. Anyone know what could be causing this?
> p.s. I have the latest BIOS installed


Do you have any type of rapid start software installed for waking up from hibernation mode?


----------



## Chillie

Hey guys. I know this answer is on the forums somewhere but, anyways. When setting a 2nd hdd where should I plug it into on the mobo? My current primary hdd is plugged into on the sata slots at the top (i believe its kinda of desert tan or dark earth color). I have my optical drive hooked up into the white slot (i heard/read that it did not matter where the readers are hooked up to).

Second question: for the second time in two weeks in the lower right hand corner a notification will pop-up and say "warning motherboard centigrade" (im not sure if thats the exact word/spelling..it pops up quick and goes away quick) does anyone else get this also what does this mean exactly???? It appears to have the same ui look as asus suite software.









BIOS: 1403


----------



## Hanoverfist

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Hey guys. I know this answer is on the forums somewhere but, anyways. When setting a 2nd hdd where should I plug it into on the mobo? My current primary hdd is plugged into on the sata slots at the top (i believe its kinda of desert tan or dark earth color). I have my optical drive hooked up into the white slot (i heard/read that it did not matter where the readers are hooked up to).
> Second question: for the second time in two weeks in the lower right hand corner a notification will pop-up and say "warning motherboard centigrade" (im not sure if thats the exact word/spelling..it pops up quick and goes away quick) does anyone else get this also what does this mean exactly???? It appears to have the same ui look as asus suite software.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS: 1403


.
The brown ports are Intel 6gb SATA The black ports are Intel 3 gb SATA and Grey are asmedia 6 gb SATA. Use the Brown..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Chillie ....not sure about your second question..sorry


----------



## pedders

I've seen it mentioned on this thread a couple of times but not noticed any solutions.
I have a Sabertooth Z77 and it has been fine for 2 weeks, yesterday it started taking 1-2 minutes just to boot the UEFI.
(With logo disabled) Power on, blank screen for 1-2 minutes then it all kicks into life.
(With logo enabled) Power on, logo shows for 1-2 minutes then again it all kicks into life.
I have the latest 1403 BIOS.
Anyone with any ideas?
Thanks
Pedro


----------



## Blatsz32

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> HI guys, I just started getting this message on my disktop after a reboot.
> Does any of you know what it means or how do i fix it.
> I just did a new install of the os like 2 days ago
> [/quote





Billy you get that on boot up when something wonky has happened to the AISUITE install.


----------



## Blatsz32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pedders*
> 
> I've seen it mentioned on this thread a couple of times but not noticed any solutions.
> I have a Sabertooth Z77 and it has been fine for 2 weeks, yesterday it started taking 1-2 minutes just to boot the UEFI.
> (With logo disabled) Power on, blank screen for 1-2 minutes then it all kicks into life.
> (With logo enabled) Power on, logo shows for 1-2 minutes then again it all kicks into life.
> I have the latest 1403 BIOS.
> Anyone with any ideas?
> Thanks
> Pedro


I found that the 1403 had issues with USB3.0. I know its a new revision on the website but I think it still has issues that they need to figureout. I reverted back to the last one, 1034? I can't remember.


----------



## Jollyriffic

thinking of getting this board, anything i should know before hand? or is there a better option? will be going with the i5 3570k
thinking it will look stunning in this case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146088


----------



## Trip99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Do you have any type of rapid start software installed for waking up from hibernation mode?


Thanks for replying, I will check, I dont think I do ,not intentionally anyway


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jollyriffic*
> 
> thinking of getting this board, anything i should know before hand? or is there a better option? will be going with the i5 3570k
> thinking it will look stunning in this case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146088


Only downside I was not aware of was no Auto Tune in the AI Suit for the Sabertooth Z77.

Not that it maters I would always use the bios for overclocking, and currently stable @4.4 with the 3570K.

virtu mvp is a waste of time and in my opinion reverses any preformance gain ( I dont use it made my games run terrible )

But all in all it is a great looking board and easy to overclock with.


----------



## Friction

New to the club as I just finished building my new system with my glorious Sabertooth as the main piece.

Here's what I have installed right now.

MB: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K @ stock 3.5GHz
RAM: 8GB Patriot Xtreme Division 2 PC3-15000
CASE: CoolerMaster HAF X
HDD1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB
HDD2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper TX3 EVO (Will be upgrading to water in a few months)
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro 500W
GPU: HIS ATI RADEON 5450 1GB (Will be upgrading this in a few months)

Here's a few pics:


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> New to the club as I just finished building my new system with my glorious Sabertooth as the main piece.
> Here's what I have installed right now.
> MB: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K @ stock 3.5GHz
> RAM: 8GB Patriot Xtreme Division 2 PC3-15000
> CASE: CoolerMaster HAF X
> HDD1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB
> HDD2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
> Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper TX3 EVO (Will be upgrading to water in a few months)
> PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro 500W
> GPU: HIS ATI RADEON 5450 1GB (Will be upgrading this in a few months)
> Here's a few pics:


I would upgrade that power supply 500 watts is to low especially if you are going to be upgrading in the future get at least 750 watts or higher just my opinion.


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Hey guys. I know this answer is on the forums somewhere but, anyways. When setting a 2nd hdd where should I plug it into on the mobo? My current primary hdd is plugged into on the sata slots at the top (i believe its kinda of desert tan or dark earth color). I have my optical drive hooked up into the white slot (i heard/read that it did not matter where the readers are hooked up to).
> Second question: for the second time in two weeks in the lower right hand corner a notification will pop-up and say "warning motherboard centigrade" (im not sure if thats the exact word/spelling..it pops up quick and goes away quick) does anyone else get this also what does this mean exactly???? It appears to have the same ui look as asus suite software.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS: 1403


for the 2nd question check out the temps in AISUITE you might have a overheating problem or alert temps might be set to low.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> for the 2nd question check out the temps in AISUITE you might have a overheating problem or alert temps might be set to low.


Yeah I will be upgrading the PSU in the future also.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> New to the club as I just finished building my new system with my glorious Sabertooth as the main piece.
> Here's what I have installed right now.
> MB: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K @ stock 3.5GHz
> RAM: 8GB Patriot Xtreme Division 2 PC3-15000
> CASE: CoolerMaster HAF X
> HDD1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB
> HDD2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
> Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper TX3 EVO (Will be upgrading to water in a few months)
> PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro 500W
> GPU: HIS ATI RADEON 5450 1GB (Will be upgrading this in a few months)
> Here's a few pics:


Looks like an awesome little build ya got there! hope everything works on the first couple boots for ya bro!


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*


.
The brown ports are Intel 6gb SATA The black ports are Intel 3 gb SATA and Grey are asmedia 6 gb SATA. Use the Brown..







[/quote]

Ahhhh thats what I was gonna try! thanks for the conformation!....+rep for ya


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Yeah I will be upgrading the PSU in the future also.


If you plug that current system of yours into a Power Configurator your well under 300w at stock speeds..








http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> for the 2nd question check out the temps in AISUITE you might have a overheating problem or alert temps might be set to low.


This sounds like a potentially promising solution, however I am going to be honest and say I HATE the sluggish interface of the suite apps. Anyways how exactly do you set you sensor settings??? Hate to sound like I dont know anything, but this software has a couple of hidden features.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Looks like an awesome little build ya got there! hope everything works on the first couple boots for ya bro!


I have already booted it up twice. The first without a hitch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If you plug that current system of yours into a Power Configurator your well under 300w at stock speeds..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp


I will be going for a high overclock in the near future also.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I have already booted it up twice. The first without a hitch.
> I will be going for a high overclock in the near future also.


I overclocked with a coolermaster 212 evo, the temps around 4.3ghz with the evo were a little to high for my taste. I switched to a corsair h100 and I have been getting great temps up to 4.8ghz. at 4.8 I was just starting to touch the 80's. Just a little info also i am running a 3570k. congrats on the boot up!!!!!


----------



## dolanda

Here is my rig







I'm new to this hole forum thing.
I've always looked at this site to see what other build now its my turn to post mine.
I plan on getting another 670 FTW in a couple months








I have a very stable overclock of 4.5GHz too it was super easy with this board.










and oh my Specs
MOBO: of course Sabertooth Z77
CPU: 3770K
GPU: GX 670 FTW
PSU: Corsair AX 850
SSD: x2 Samsiung 830 128GB
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x 8GB
Case: Phantom 410 Gun Metal
Cooler: H100


----------



## Hanoverfist

Welcome Dolanda


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> HI guys, I just started getting this message on my disktop after a reboot.
> Does any of you know what it means or how do i fix it.
> I just did a new install of the os like 2 days ago


You have to delete an entry in the task scheduler (Start->Run->taskschd.msc), under the asus folder.


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Release date is different "2012.07.31".
> Tonight I'll compare both old and new bios files to see if there is any binary difference between them.
> I bet the 1st one was flawed and they took it down on purpose.


Just compared both bios files and *they are identical*.
I'm using 1403 since release. It's working like a charm and solved my memory issues.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Just compared both bios files and *they are identical*.
> I'm using 1403 since release. It's working like a charm and solved my memory issues.


Good to know







rep


----------



## razalom

Well mine finally arrived in the post!










Along with an i5 3570k
Sandisk extreme 120gb SSD
850W Coolmaster Silent Pro M2

Waiting on CM Haf X case and my G.Skill RAM (16gb) that should hopefully arrive tomorrow.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Well mine finally arrived in the post!
> 
> Along with an i5 3570k
> Sandisk extreme 120gb SSD
> 850W Coolmaster Silent Pro M2
> Waiting on CM Haf X case and my G.Skill RAM (16gb) that should hopefully arrive tomorrow.


Feels like Christmas don't it.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Well mine finally arrived in the post!
> 
> Along with an i5 3570k
> Sandisk extreme 120gb SSD
> 850W Coolmaster Silent Pro M2
> Waiting on CM Haf X case and my G.Skill RAM (16gb) that should hopefully arrive tomorrow.


I love the UPS guy...


----------



## razalom

Just sad my case and ram is 1 day behind and I have today off work








Oh well something to do after work tomorrow I guess.


----------



## Tslm

Quick question, the bios I'm running is 0604 and is dated the 7th of February 2012 so it's an extremely early one. Is there any reason for me to flash to the newest? I only ask because the last time I kept a mobo bios up to date it ended up creating problems.

Aside from one weird problem where my USB mouse randomly stops working after several hours of being away from the computer everything seems fine with it


----------



## darklord77

Hi guys,
I can't understand which drivers, utilities i need to install for my beauty







(Sabertooth z77). I grabbed everything from ASUS global site (fresh windows 7 install). Is the following procedure correct 1) windows install 2) Lan 17.1.0.0 3)windows update 4)all the others. I'm trying to have a system with needed drivers & utilities.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> I overclocked with a coolermaster 212 evo, the temps around 4.3ghz with the evo were a little to high for my taste. I switched to a corsair h100 and I have been getting great temps up to 4.8ghz. at 4.8 I was just starting to touch the 80's. Just a little info also i am running a 3570k. congrats on the boot up!!!!!


I doubt I will be able to overclock to high with this Hyper TX3 Evo, so I won't be attempting it until I either get the H100 or kit it out with customized water parts. I did look at the H100 before ordering everything, but it was a little above my budget. I may upgrade to the H100 and then later to more of a customized water system. Will just see how my budget goes. I will be trying for around 4.8 - 5.0GHz eventually.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tslm*
> 
> Quick question, the bios I'm running is 0604 and is dated the 7th of February 2012 so it's an extremely early one. Is there any reason for me to flash to the newest? I only ask because the last time I kept a mobo bios up to date it ended up creating problems.
> Aside from one weird problem where my USB mouse randomly stops working after several hours of being away from the computer everything seems fine with it


You could try 1206 or bios 1304 but in all honesty some peeps have had issues with 1403 .. operative word there is SOME.. If your feeling frisky then go ahead and try .. And there is nothing wrong with staying at an early Bios rev. Main reason I would flash ANY board is to resolve Issues with board or hardware related problems. Good luck


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I can't understand which drivers, utilities i need to install for my beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Sabertooth z77). I grabbed everything from ASUS global site (fresh windows 7 install). Is the following procedure correct 1) windows install 2) Lan 17.1.0.0 3)windows update 4)all the others. I'm trying to have a system with needed drivers & utilities.
> Thanks in advance.


You really dont need have the software crap that comes with this board.. as far as the basic's go. I personally do not use Software overclocking Utilities.. Stick to the main drivers your hardware needs to operate firstly.. I would stay away from Virtu MVP ... You can always check your device manager to see if your missing anything.


----------



## dolanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I doubt I will be able to overclock to high with this Hyper TX3 Evo, so I won't be attempting it until I either get the H100 or kit it out with customized water parts. I did look at the H100 before ordering everything, but it was a little above my budget. I may upgrade to the H100 and then later to more of a customized water system. Will just see how my budget goes. I will be trying for around 4.8 - 5.0GHz eventually.


The H100 is a bomb:thumb: cooler if your not experienced at making your own water loop. I have it and it keeps my 4.5ghz below 60c.


----------



## DeviousTom

What would be the drawbacks of running 670s in SLI on the first and third PCIEx16 slots? I've got one card under watercooling, and I plan to put the other one under but it will require a different waterblock so I might have to run tubing between them instead of an SLI waterblock link, and running the tubing will be a lot easier if I set them to the first and third slots.


----------



## darklord77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You really dont need have the software crap that comes with this board.. as far as the basic's go. I personally do not use Software overclocking Utilities.. Stick to the main drivers your hardware needs to operate firstly.. I would stay away from Virtu MVP ... You can always check your device manager to see if your missing anything.


Thanks Hanoverfist







I'll try ASUS AI Suite II only. About Intel(R) AHCI/RAID Driver for Windows ? give them a try or stick with windows AHCI.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1403 with updated RAID OROM 11.5.0.1582
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/dl-asus-p67-z68-bioss-with-updated-raid-rom


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> Thanks Hanoverfist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try ASUS AI Suite II only. About Intel(R) AHCI/RAID Driver for Windows ? give them a try or stick with windows AHCI.


----------



## darklord77

*@ Hanoverfist*


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> *@ Hanoverfist*


Have a read through here.. good stuff

http://www.overclock.net/t/1248928/asus-z77-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-6-25


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeviousTom*
> 
> What would be the drawbacks of running 670s in SLI on the first and third PCIEx16 slots? I've got one card under watercooling, and I plan to put the other one under but it will require a different waterblock so I might have to run tubing between them instead of an SLI waterblock link, and running the tubing will be a lot easier if I set them to the first and third slots.


The drawback is that slot 3 PCIe 2.0 and is only x4.. Runing first and second is recommended to give you 8 x 8 .at PCIe 3.0. I think you would be 8 x 4 in 1st and 3rd an obvious disservice to your cards.


----------



## darklord77

*@ Hanoverfist*

If we have discrete sound card and vga we don't need Intel Graphics Media Accelerator Driver & Realtek High Definition Audio Driver am i right ?

I'm reading many people have problems with Intel AHCI/RAID







i'll stay with windows drivers for a start.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> *@ Hanoverfist*
> If we have discrete sound card and vga we don't need Intel Graphics Media Accelerator Driver & Realtek High Definition Audio Driver am i right ?
> I'm reading many people have problems with Intel AHCI/RAID
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll stay with windows drivers for a start.


IF you have a discrete sound card then no U do not need to worry about the on board realtek.. Can you clarify VGA? do you mean you have a vga monitor and vga discrete card.. OOh i think you mean you have a discrete graphics card? If so then dont bother with the intel graphics driver


----------



## Hanoverfist

all raid discussion here.
:thumb:http://www.overclock.net/f/320/raid-controllers-and-software


----------



## darklord77

*@Hanoverfist*

ASUS GTX 670


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> *@Hanoverfist*
> ASUS GTX 670


Thats what i thought.. discrete graphics card.. dont worry about the intel drivers for graphics..that pertains to using onboard iGPU


----------



## Trip99

I still havent managed to solve my problem where the machine will not return from sleep. I have an SSD drive so I thought that was the problem but I am more and more thinking it is the motherboard because when I wake the machine it instantly shuts off and restarts. Any ideas ?


----------



## navit

Have you tried resetting the Cmos jumper?


----------



## Trip99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Have you tried resetting the Cmos jumper?


No I have not, sounds a bit drastic but maybe worth a try


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> No I have not, sounds a bit drastic but maybe worth a try


It just resets the BIOS and sets all settings back to default


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> It just resets the BIOS and sets all settings back to default


Correct but it fixed an issue for me like the one he is having. I just reset my settings again and never had the problem again.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Correct but it fixed an issue for me like the one he is having. I just reset my settings again and never had the problem again.


I was just trying to ensure the guy it was alright.. he sounded a little shaky about it.. I agree it can solve a multitude of issues.


----------



## navit




----------



## keesgelder

Hey Gentlemen, I've got a problem:

edit: problem resolved (got board replaced by retailer)


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Hey Gentlemen, I've got a problem:
> I've bought this board a couple of days ago and put it in my rig yesterday. However, I've been having issues with the RAM. When I put the RAM in slot 1 and 3 (like you're supposed to), my PC did not boot. After fiddling around for a while, I found out that putting memory only in the channel A slots results in a successful boot (but of course, in this case my memory does not run in dual channel). Putting memory in the channel B slots results in an unsuccessful boot. An unsuccessful boot in my case means that the red RAM led is burning constantly (indicating some sort of problem with the RAM) but I'm not getting any sound indication.
> I contacted someone over at the futuremark forum's who seemed to have the exact same problem. He told me that he fixed the problem; he found out that actually one of the pins in the CPU socket was slightly bent (according to him it was slightly longer than the rest, therefore probably bending while installing the CPU), and he manually bent it back thereby actually solving the problem. This is quite interesting, because having the PC boot in the first place with a busted socket is quite unusual. I do not like to try this for myself before I've ruled out everything else. I'm not looking forward to bending CPU socket pins (nor am I looking forward to doing the whole thermal paste thing again either, so for now I cant just look at it either).
> I hope you gentlemen can help me out here!
> (edit: also posted the issue on the asus support forums)


According to page 2-5 of the manual the correct config is slot A2 (2) for a single DIMM, Slots A2 (2) and B2 (4)for 2 DIMMs, and slots A1 (1) A2 (2) B1 (3) and B2 (4) for 4 DIMMs. I use slots A2 & B2 (2 & 4) and have no Dual Channel issues. Did you try installing one stick in slot A2 (2) only and then entering the bios and setting the ram timings listed on the sticks manually as well as setting the rated voltage?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Hey Gentlemen, I've got a problem:
> I've bought this board a couple of days ago and put it in my rig yesterday. However, I've been having issues with the RAM. When I put the RAM in slot 1 and 3 (like you're supposed to), my PC did not boot. After fiddling around for a while, I found out that putting memory only in the channel A slots results in a successful boot (but of course, in this case my memory does not run in dual channel). Putting memory in the channel B slots results in an unsuccessful boot. An unsuccessful boot in my case means that the red RAM led is burning constantly (indicating some sort of problem with the RAM) but I'm not getting any sound indication.
> I contacted someone over at the futuremark forum's who seemed to have the exact same problem. He told me that he fixed the problem; he found out that actually one of the pins in the CPU socket was slightly bent (according to him it was slightly longer than the rest, therefore probably bending while installing the CPU), and he manually bent it back thereby actually solving the problem. This is quite interesting, because having the PC boot in the first place with a busted socket is quite unusual. I do not like to try this for myself before I've ruled out everything else. I'm not looking forward to bending CPU socket pins (nor am I looking forward to doing the whole thermal paste thing again either, so for now I cant just look at it either).
> I hope you gentlemen can help me out here!
> (edit: also posted the issue on the asus support forums)


What bios are you running? I had that problem when I first built my rig till I updated my bios then all 4 slots worked just fine. Did have to set trimmings in bios though.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin*
> 
> According to page 2-5 of the manual the correct config is slot A2 (2) for a single DIMM, Slots A2 (2) and B2 (4)for 2 DIMMs, and slots A1 (1) A2 (2) B1 (3) and B2 (4) for 4 DIMMs. I use slots A2 & B2 (2 & 4) and have no Dual Channel issues. Did you try installing one stick in slot A2 (2) only and then entering the bios and setting the ram timings listed on the sticks manually as well as setting the rated voltage?


Whoops 2 and 4, that's what I meant, but I've tested basically every combination so far ;-)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> What bios are you running? I had that problem when I first built my rig till I updated my bios then all 4 slots worked just fine. Did have to set trimmings in bios though.


As soon as I got into windows I downloaded and installed the (newest) 1403 bios, but nothing changed.

I just checked my timings in the bios ('primary timings'), they were all detected correctly automatically, so the situation has not improved yet.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Hey Gentlemen, I've got a problem:
> I've bought this board a couple of days ago and put it in my rig yesterday. However, I've been having issues with the RAM. When I put the RAM in slot 2 and 4 (like you're supposed to), my PC did not boot. After fiddling around for a while, I found out that putting memory only in the channel A slots results in a successful boot (but of course, in this case my memory does not run in dual channel). Putting memory in the channel B slots results in an unsuccessful boot. An unsuccessful boot in my case means that the red RAM led is burning constantly (indicating some sort of problem with the RAM) but I'm not getting any sound indication.
> I contacted someone over at the futuremark forum's who seemed to have the exact same problem. He told me that he fixed the problem; he found out that actually one of the pins in the CPU socket was slightly bent (according to him it was slightly longer than the rest, therefore probably bending while installing the CPU), and he manually bent it back thereby actually solving the problem. This is quite interesting, because having the PC boot in the first place with a busted socket is quite unusual. I do not like to try this for myself before I've ruled out everything else. I'm not looking forward to bending CPU socket pins (nor am I looking forward to doing the whole thermal paste thing again either, so for now I cant just look at it either).
> I hope you gentlemen can help me out here!
> (edit: also posted the issue on the asus support forums)


Have you tried the MEM OK feature listed on pg 2-15 of the manual?
I know its a Bummer but you should Inspect your Socket for damage.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Interesting ..look what this guy has found in his Socket..right out of the box

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/25270#post_17884849


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Interesting ..look what this guy has found in his Socket..right out of the box
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/25270#post_17884849


That is interesting... now I wish I would have taken a closer look at my socket to make sure it was clean and undamaged. I wonder if a loose or damaged pin could have anything to do with the instability I had when I had 32GB of RAM. Probably not but you never know... 16GB is good enough for me (though 32GB would have been nice for bragging rights).

I switched to this RAM and it works well... it's a bit faster than the 9-9-9-24 G.SKILL I was using before:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148486

Got a great deal at $35 per 8GB.


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

I wrote about my new build in my forum here:
http://www.htmlvalidator.com/CSEForum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1560

I thought I'd share.









One thing I do wish I had done is removed the thermal armor... but it doesn't look like it can easily be done without removing the CPU heat sink and video cards and I just don't want to mess with it at this point.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I wrote about my new build in my forum here:
> http://www.htmlvalidator.com/CSEForum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1560
> I thought I'd share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I do wish I had done is removed the thermal armor... but it doesn't look like it can easily be done without removing the CPU heat sink and video cards and I just don't want to mess with it at this point.


Yes it would be a pain for you at this point .. the screws are on the back of the board.. Nice build:thumb: great pic quality


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saurk66*
> 
> Should mention, I got to 4.3GHz just using the Auto-Tune in Ai Suite. First time/noob OCers should start there.


Hi, where did you get the Auto-Tune program? I, too, have a Saber 77 (altho with a 3770k) and I can't find Auto-Tune in my AI Suite?

nevermind







. I read a few posts later and saw your answer. sorry...


----------



## chimuelo

Hanoverfist,
Your avatar leads me to believe you might be into DAW apps.
Are U...?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimuelo*
> 
> Hanoverfist,
> Your avatar leads me to believe you might be into DAW apps.
> Are U...?


Yep , its another hobby


----------



## chimuelo

So are you maxxed out at 32GB or is 16GBs enough for you..?
I am debating on making the jump but I am so happy with the 23nm Samsung stuff, as I have a 1U, that I'm a little nervous about max RAM.
I'm maxxed on on my i7 4U and I use only 14GBs but noticed in x64 W7 Pro I had to lower the DRAM voltage to a much slower speed.
With the Samsung I am getting better performance for realtime latencies ( 1.3msec Duplexed ) and I only raised the voltage from 1.35v to 1.5v.

But on the other hand I am nervous about 14GBs being so close to the capacity, but so far zero problems, night after night.
What's your thoughts on using Maxxed out DIMMs on non Xeon parts...?

Thanks For Your Advice in advance....


----------



## UpsideDownAce

Would you guys say you are satisfied with Asus customer service? I heard it was horrible, and it makes me wonder if the sabertooth's five year warranty is worth it


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UpsideDownAce*
> 
> Would you guys say you are satisfied with Asus customer service? I heard it was horrible, and it makes me wonder if the sabertooth's five year warranty is worth it


I would use this guy for any support related issues

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281274/new-member-customer-loyalty-team-for-asus#post_17692799


----------



## UpsideDownAce

Thanks for the link!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UpsideDownAce*
> 
> Thanks for the link!


NP:thumb:


----------



## razalom

Not finished yet as still waiting for the Corsair H100 to arrive but its working at least and I cant believe the speed of an SSD compared to my old Sata2 boot drive. Also havent installed all my older drivers yet, placed the HAF psu cover back on or gpu cooler cover back on. Getting there though.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Not finished yet as still waiting for the Corsair H100 to arrive but its working at least and I cant believe the speed of an SSD compared to my old Sata2 boot drive. Also havent installed all my older drivers yet, placed the HAF psu cover back on or gpu cooler cover back on. Getting there though.


Nice..clean:thumb:

and SSD:thumb:


----------



## iARDAs

I set my multiplier to 42 and 100

Now even when the computer is idle the frequency is at 42

I disable C1E from this bios but nothing.

How can i make my frequency to drop when the CPU is idle?


----------



## kizwan

Did you set the multiplier at "CPU Ratio"? Set it back to Auto. You should set multiplier under "AI Tweaker", set "Turbo Ratio" to Manual & set multiplier for each cores.

You need both SpeedStep & C1E enabled for CPU frequency to automatically change at different CPU load.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you set the multiplier at "CPU Ratio"? Set it back to Auto. You should set multiplier under "AI Tweaker", set "Turbo Ratio" to Manual & set multiplier for each cores.
> You need both SpeedStep & C1E enabled for CPU frequency to automatically change at different CPU load.


Ahh got it thank you.

I had to enable C1E, not disable it lol ))

Thanks and rep


----------



## AnonOblesse

Just found this thread, maybe someone out there can help me. Im having an issue where when I shut down my system, the computer will begin to shut down normally, the comp itself will turn off, all normal. However about 4 second after turning off it will turn itself back on. This problem never happens when there is no hard drive connected (as in you can only access the bios), but once I connect a hard drive with windows installed on it this problem occurs again. Could it be a mobo issue? Ive tried every setting I can find in windows and I am at a loss for what to do next. Please help!


----------



## Elloquin

Check to make sure you don't have wake on LAN enabled.


----------



## jgdiablo

BIOS 1504 released today...anyone aware what it resolves and/or safe to update?


----------



## Bobmitch

Here we go again. Another new bios

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?id=20120809163851600&board_id=1&model=SABERTOOTH+Z77&page=1&SLanguage=en-us


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jgdiablo*
> 
> BIOS 1504 released today...anyone aware what it resolves and/or safe to update?


Thanks for the Heads Up..Wont be switched on until this weekend .. I will try it ..


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Thanks. I think I'll let others be the guinea pigs... though I probably shouldn't update because my system is working fine now at 4.4 GHz with a +.05 voltage offset. I tried 4.5 but it failed.

If anyone is doing 4.5 GHz with a 3770K, then could you share your overclock settings?


----------



## radar54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> Thanks. I think I'll let others be the guinea pigs... though I probably shouldn't update because my system is working fine now at 4.4 GHz with a +.05 voltage offset. I tried 4.5 but it failed.
> If anyone is doing 4.5 GHz with a 3770K, then could you share your overclock settings?


HI, I'd be happy with 4.4 GHz. Can you provide us with YOUR BIOS settings? thanks


----------



## CSE HTML Validator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> HI, I'd be happy with 4.4 GHz. Can you provide us with YOUR BIOS settings? thanks


I'm "happy" with 4.4... but if I could easily do more, then why not?









Basically, my settings are just 44x and a +.05 voltage offset.

Is using a voltage offset less stable than a fixed voltage (but uses less power)?

More:
Ai Overclock Tuner: X.M.P.
ASUS MultiCore Enhancement: Enabled
Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled
EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
CPU Spread Sprectrum: Disabled
LLC - 50%
VRM Spread Spectrum - Disabled
All "Current Capability" - 100%


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CSE HTML Validator*
> 
> I'm "happy" with 4.4... but if I could easily do more, then why not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, my settings are just 44x and a +.05 voltage offset.
> Is using a voltage offset less stable than a fixed voltage (but uses less power)?
> More:
> Ai Overclock Tuner: X.M.P.
> ASUS MultiCore Enhancement: Enabled
> Internal PLL Overvoltage: Disabled
> EPU Power Saving Mode: Disabled
> CPU Spread Sprectrum: Disabled
> LLC - 50%
> VRM Spread Spectrum - Disabled
> All "Current Capability" - 100%


A preferred method of OC is using offset check out the UEFI tuning guide.. if you already have then disregard..\

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1690#post_17770919

Watch your loaded temps carefully .. i noticed your on air ..









http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1650#post_17752742


----------



## AnonOblesse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin*
> 
> Check to make sure you don't have wake on LAN enabled.


I disabled that a while ago.


----------



## Omnicurse

I noticed about a week ago Asus had removed their most recent bios for the Sabertooth Z77 briefly, It's back up now.. But does anyone know the reason behind them removing it briefly?, I'm debating re-flashing the bios again just to be on the safe side


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omnicurse*
> 
> I noticed about a week ago Asus had removed their most recent bios for the Sabertooth Z77 briefly, It's back up now.. But does anyone know the reason behind them removing it briefly?, I'm debating re-flashing the bios again just to be on the safe side


Are you referring to 1403? New one out today 1504

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2030#post_17898161


----------



## Sevada88

I wanted to ask OCN a question but since I am planning on buying this motherboard, I thought I might just put my question here.

When installing a new motherboard, do you guys think it's better to do a fresh install of the OS or just connect the SSD with the "old" OS already installed? I re-installed my Windows 7 about 2 months ago...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> I wanted to ask OCN a question but since I am planning on buying this motherboard, I thought I might just put my question here.
> When installing a new motherboard, do you guys think it's better to do a fresh install of the OS or just connect the SSD with the "old" OS already installed? I re-installed my Windows 7 about 2 months ago...


Fresh install . No question. You don't want old drivers hanging around.


----------



## jgdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Fresh install . No question. You don't want old drivers hanging around.


On the flip side, I didn't want to be overly bothered with reinstalling EVERYTHING so I placed my SSD into the new system, booted, it found most drivers, installed new one's and the system works like a charm. No complaints for me. When I move to Windows 8, I'll then spend the time to start from scratch.

Just make a full image backup of your SSD before attempting it, in case you don't like the results.

Good Luck!


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sevada88*
> 
> I wanted to ask OCN a question but since I am planning on buying this motherboard, I thought I might just put my question here.
> When installing a new motherboard, do you guys think it's better to do a fresh install of the OS or just connect the SSD with the "old" OS already installed? I re-installed my Windows 7 about 2 months ago...


It would 'work' without it but most would recommend a fresh install, especially as said above to eliminate unneeded drivers that will linger and possibly conflict with something.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Hey everyone i was going to be buying
the z77 sabertooth mobo soon but was
also wondering what RAM i should buy.
i am looking for a 4x8 (32 gig) ram kit
and also the heatsinks can be removed as i
have bought 4 of Koolance's RAM-33
liquid cooling blocks for my next liquid cooled pc.
thanks everyone.
also it has to be anywhere from DDR3 2400 to DDR3 1866.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Hey everyone i was going to be buying
> the z77 sabertooth mobo soon but was
> also wondering what RAM i should buy.
> i am looking for a 4x8 (32 gig) ram kit
> and also the heatsinks can be removed as i
> have bought 4 of Koolance's RAM-33
> liquid cooling blocks for my next liquid cooled pc.
> thanks everyone.
> also it has to be anywhere from DDR3 2400 to DDR3 1866.


Got Cash?







http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233271 thats on the QVL

how much do you want to spend.. there are alot of choices and compatibility has been an issue with this board on some builds using all 4 dimms hopefully their newly released Bios today solved some of that:thumb:


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Got Cash?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233271 thats on the QVL
> how much do you want to spend.. there are alot of choices and compatibility has been an issue with this board on some builds using all 4 dimms hopefully their newly released Bios today solved some of that:thumb:


not too worried about the cost factor just don't want to
buy a RAM kit that's not compatable and that i can't
remove the heatsinks..i know it's gonna cost around 4 or 5 prob..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> not too worried about the cost factor just don't want to
> buy a RAM kit that's not compatable and that i can't
> remove the heatsinks..i know it's gonna cost around 4 or 5 prob..


This is also on the qvl not the speed you wanted though. I dont see a lot of supported 8gb modules

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220647


----------



## LuckyNumber13

also i know this might sound kinda
silly but there is a reason.
when you have the comp on for a bit
does the armor part of the motherboard
get hot.?like above 80F?
i only ask because i recently got into airbrushing
and want to try this paint out.it turns clear
when it reaches approx.80*F and anything underneath
this paint shows up and the paint is complete transparent.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> also i know this might sound kinda
> silly but there is a reason.
> when you have the comp on for a bit
> does the armor part of the motherboard
> get hot.?like above 80F?
> i only ask because i recently got into airbrushing
> and want to try this paint out.it turns clear
> when it reaches approx.80*F and anything underneath
> this paint shows up and the paint is complete transparent.


Sorry don't have any temps I can give .I'm still in the build process.


----------



## razalom

Just a quick question on the BIOS. Only just got the board and checked the bios and I believe it is on v1015. So far had no issues (not done much though) but was there anything major that was fixed in some of the newer updates that would be worth upgrading it for?

Cheers


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> Just a quick question on the BIOS. Only just got the board and checked the bios and I believe it is on v1015. So far had no issues (not done much though) but was there anything major that was fixed in some of the newer updates that would be worth upgrading it for?
> Cheers


New BIOS releases have addressed memory compatibility..Usb issues..system stability..Windows 8 compatibility..video card issues..if your not having any issues I don't see a need to update..but its up to you.


----------



## razalom

OK cheers for the quick reply. Will wait a little to see whats happening with the machine and if anything is misbehaving before doing an update.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razalom*
> 
> OK cheers for the quick reply. Will wait a little to see whats happening with the machine and if anything is misbehaving before doing an update.


----------



## Bobmitch

Flashed to 1504 on my system...all seems fine!


----------



## AnonOblesse

flashing to 1504 probably won't cause any problems for the majority of users.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Flashed to 1504 on my system...all seems fine!


Sounds good


----------



## Detoyminador

I'm running 2x8Gb G.skill Trident X and I'm very happy with them http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589
They are running at 2133 CPU 2700k @ 4.7Ghz stable. The red heat sinks unscrew and slide off.
Here are the 32Gb set http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231590


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> not too worried about the cost factor just don't want to
> buy a RAM kit that's not compatable and that i can't
> remove the heatsinks..i know it's gonna cost around 4 or 5 prob..


sorry LuckyNumbers this was meant for you, forgot to quote







I'm a noob









I'm running 2x8Gb G.skill Trident X and I'm very happy with them http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589
They are running at 2133 CPU 2700k @ 4.7Ghz stable. The red heat sinks unscrew and slide off.
Here are the 32Gb set http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231590


----------



## chimuelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I'm running 2x8Gb G.skill Trident X and I'm very happy with them http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589
> They are running at 2133 CPU 2700k @ 4.7Ghz stable. The red heat sinks unscrew and slide off.
> Here are the 32Gb set http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231590


I'd love to see 32GBs running at that voltage and speed. My money is on lowering the DRAM to 1,5v which means should have bought the 1,5v RAM to start with.
Every non Xeon rig using max RAM that I have witnessed in action does 1600 CAS 10or11 @ 1,5v.
I bought expensive RAM for the i7 I still have for practicing my skills at home, and it had to run @ 1.5v or the OS wouldn't allow more than 8GB to be recognized.

Maybe this BIOS will cause me to make the move to 32GB's. I'd be set for years.....


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Flashed to 1504 on my system...all seems fine!


Same here, all settings went back the way they were just fine.


----------



## darklord77

Guys should i install Asus AI Suite II ? Thermal Radar seems interesting


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> Guys should i install Asus AI Suite II ? Thermal Radar seems interesting


Yes.. thermal radar is a cool feature for board temp monitoring.


----------



## darklord77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yes.. thermal radar is a cool feature for board temp monitoring.


Can i install only thermal radar ? i believe it has separate setup.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> Can i install only thermal radar ? i believe it has separate setup.


Its part of the tool set in AI suite ll..You can use just that feature if you so desire

One guys experience with thermal radar
http://www.overclock.net/t/1276162/difference-between-realtemp-and-asus-ai-thermal-radar


----------



## darklord77

*@Hanoverfist*

Thank you


----------



## JJohnson1988

With the most recent two BIOS versions (1403 and 1504), I seemed to have lost the ability to boot from my optical drive. When I flashed back to 1304, I had the option to boot from my optical drive again.

Is anyone else experiencing this issue?


----------



## asuman1179

Just purchased this motherboard and was reading in the manual about Intel 2012 Desktop Responsiveness technologies. If I have a large SSD 256G do I need to install this software or any benefit? Trying to understand if people are using this or if this is more for small SSD and regular HD setup? Thanks


----------



## jgdiablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJohnson1988*
> 
> With the most recent two BIOS versions (1403 and 1504), I seemed to have lost the ability to boot from my optical drive. When I flashed back to 1304, I had the option to boot from my optical drive again.
> Is anyone else experiencing this issue?


Did you update the boot order in the BIOS? I also updated to 1504 and had to tweak the boot orders around.


----------



## JJohnson1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jgdiablo*
> 
> Did you update the boot order in the BIOS? I also updated to 1504 and had to tweak the boot orders around.


Yes I did.

But the problem is simply that the device won't show up at all. So... basically there's not much to change as far as boot order goes. Also, I'd like to point out that the device /does/ show up in Windows after I log in.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJohnson1988*
> 
> With the most recent two BIOS versions (1403 and 1504), I seemed to have lost the ability to boot from my optical drive. When I flashed back to 1304, I had the option to boot from my optical drive again.
> Is anyone else experiencing this issue?


what sata port is the optical drive in???,,intel or asmedia? brown and black are intel


----------



## dolanda

Has anyone taken the thermal radar off at all? I was wondering if doing that voids the warranty cause I cant imagine how much dust collects behind it over time just a thought. I couldnt find anything in the manual or docs that came with board saying so so idk


----------



## darkSurge

Just recently did a build using this mobo and have a question...Does anyone elses logo flash 3 times? Is this normal? The logo I'm talking about is the TUF logo where you have the option to enter BIOS. Here is my setup...

Asus Sabertooth Z77
Intel i5-3570k
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB
G.SKILL Ripjaws 8GB (2 x 4GB)
CORSAIR Pro Series HX850


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dolanda*
> 
> Has anyone taken the thermal radar off at all? I was wondering if doing that voids the warranty cause I cant imagine how much dust collects behind it over time just a thought. I couldnt find anything in the manual or docs that came with board saying so so idk


It does not void it


----------



## 7tronic

Hey all,

I'm having an intermittent issue with my sabertooth Z77 failing to start. What happens is when I press the power button the PC attempts to start-I can hear the fans spin up, then it shuts down immediately. When this problem occurs, it happens the first and second time I press the power button-but the PC starts as usual and runs fine the third time I press it. This might happen once out of every 15 start-ups.
The other day it shut down completely for no reason while gaming, this has only happened once. It re-started fine.

So far, I have hecked the chassis switch with a multimeter for continuity a few times and it seems ok. Ran intel burn test on the CPU-i2500k-it passed OK, it idles at 27 deg C average, the max temp gaming is 58 deg C. Case temps seem normal-I have ever only gotten a few high temp warnings for PCI-E-1 bus on the thermal radar-upping the intake case fans (Silverstone FT02) resolved this.

I don't think this is to do with my PSU, and both 7970's are performing excellently without any issues since I installed 12.7 beta drivers. I'm running the 'auto-overclock' in the BIOS which is at 4.4GHz-I still haven't had time to have a proper play about with it..









Has anyone had similar issues, or any ideas as to what the problem is?

I'm running the 1206 rev. BIOS-is it worth updating?

Thanks in advance.

G.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7tronic*
> 
> Hey all,
> I'm having an intermittent issue with my sabertooth Z77 failing to start. What happens is when I press the power button the PC attempts to start-I can hear the fans spin up, then it shuts down immediately. When this problem occurs, it happens the first and second time I press the power button-but the PC starts as usual and runs fine the third time I press it. This might happen once out of every 15 start-ups.
> The other day it shut down completely for no reason while gaming, this has only happened once. It re-started fine.
> So far, I have hecked the chassis switch with a multimeter for continuity a few times and it seems ok. Ran intel burn test on the CPU-i2500k-it passed OK, it idles at 27 deg C average, the max temp gaming is 58 deg C. Case temps seem normal-I have ever only gotten a few high temp warnings for PCI-E-1 bus on the thermal radar-upping the intake case fans (Silverstone FT02) resolved this.
> I don't think this is to do with my PSU, and both 7970's are performing excellently without any issues since I installed 12.7 beta drivers. I'm running the 'auto-overclock' in the BIOS which is at 4.4GHz-I still haven't had time to have a proper play about with it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had similar issues, or any ideas as to what the problem is?
> I'm running the 1206 rev. BIOS-is it worth updating?
> Thanks in advance.
> G.


Why would you not think its the PSU? That would be the first thing I would replace after checking to make sure there isnt a short in the wires to the power/reset button somewhere.


----------



## Caelen

dbl


----------



## Caelen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkSurge*
> 
> Just recently did a build using this mobo and have a question...Does anyone elses logo flash 3 times? Is this normal? The logo I'm talking about is the TUF logo where you have the option to enter BIOS. Here is my setup...
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Intel i5-3570k
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB
> G.SKILL Ripjaws 8GB (2 x 4GB)
> CORSAIR Pro Series HX850


Yes thats normal for default.
Look in boot part of BIOS and change the value of ROM messages I think its called.
Can be either set to force BIOS or keep current.
If you change it to keep current that should stop getting the logo screen more than once


----------



## Caelen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJohnson1988*
> 
> With the most recent two BIOS versions (1403 and 1504), I seemed to have lost the ability to boot from my optical drive. When I flashed back to 1304, I had the option to boot from my optical drive again.
> Is anyone else experiencing this issue?


is your optical drive on the 6th intel port.
If so then I had the same issue, I have a backup HDD on the 6th sata port that has a windows install on it and I boot to that occasionally when I want to try out some crap which I don't want on my proper windows drive.
With the last two BIOS that drive is no longer visible in the boot options, but is still available when I go to the sata config section.
My only option was to swap sata ports with whatever I hav on no. 5 and then it became selectable in the boot options.


----------



## cladinshadows85

Hey just seeing if anyone is using the Sabertooth Z77 in CM HAF X case with watercooling. I'm using the XSPC RX360 rad mounted at the top of the case and using fans in push config I'm finding the left most fan is in the way of the MOSFIT casing. I've modded the fan so the ATX 8 pin power can fit in but the fan blades keep hitting the MOSFIT casing. Should I have no fan there and what about the top 200mm fans, is their enough static pressure to pull air through the rad? Or should i grind away the casing so the fan blades don't hit it? I haven't yet tested the cpu at full load, but at idle CPU is around 25C. Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cladinshadows85*
> 
> Hey just seeing if anyone is using the Sabertooth Z77 in CM HAF X case with watercooling. I'm using the XSPC RX360 rad mounted at the top of the case and using fans in push config I'm finding the left most fan is in the way of the MOSFIT casing. I've modded the fan so the ATX 8 pin power can fit in but the fan blades keep hitting the MOSFIT casing. Should I have no fan there and what about the top 200mm fans, is their enough static pressure to pull air through the rad? Or should i grind away the casing so the fan blades don't hit it? I haven't yet tested the cpu at full load, but at idle CPU is around 25C. Any help would be greatly appreciated


You might get more response on the specifics of your problems over in this section

http://www.overclock.net/t/392179/the-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-922-912-club

Or Here
http://www.overclock.net/f/15/case-mods-general-discussion


----------



## JJohnson1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> what sata port is the optical drive in???,,intel or asmedia? brown and black are intel


It's in the Intel controller. AFAIK the drive shouldn't work in the Asmedia controller anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caelen*
> 
> is your optical drive on the 6th intel port.
> If so then I had the same issue, I have a backup HDD on the 6th sata port that has a windows install on it and I boot to that occasionally when I want to try out some crap which I don't want on my proper windows drive.
> With the last two BIOS that drive is no longer visible in the boot options, but is still available when I go to the sata config section.
> My only option was to swap sata ports with whatever I hav on no. 5 and then it became selectable in the boot options.


I'm pretty sure this is the solution I am looking for.









Hopefully I'll be able to confirm a bit later.

EDIT: Still no luck. I had my optical drive on SATA port 5 originally. I read your post and switched the drive to SATA port 6. Still the same result.

Just to clarify, the drive shows up on the POST screen where it lists all the SATA devices on the Intel controller. So the drive IS being detected (and don't forget that it works fine once I'm in Windows). It's just that when I press F8 to go to the boot menu, or when I press DEL to enter setup, the drive is basically non-existent. I am completely stumped.

If anyone is wondering, the optical drive is an ASUS DRW-24B1ST "c", firmware version 1.05.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJohnson1988*
> 
> It's in the Intel controller. AFAIK the drive shouldn't work in the Asmedia controller anyway.
> I'm pretty sure this is the solution I am looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I'll be able to confirm a bit later.
> EDIT: Still no luck. I had my optical drive on SATA port 5 originally. I read your post and switched the drive to SATA port 6. Still the same result.
> Just to clarify, the drive shows up on the POST screen where it lists all the SATA devices on the Intel controller. So the drive IS being detected (and don't forget that it works fine once I'm in Windows). It's just that when I press F8 to go to the boot menu, or when I press DEL to enter setup, the drive is basically non-existent. I am completely stumped.
> If anyone is wondering, the optical drive is an ASUS DRW-24B1ST "c", firmware version 1.05.


Here is a solution..switch back to BIOS 1304..you stated that it worked for you .why not use it.


----------



## Blatsz32

4.6 overclock with great temps. BCLK at 103.0 played BF3 for 2hours no prob highest temp was core 2&3 at 72


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7tronic*
> 
> Hey all,
> I'm having an intermittent issue with my sabertooth Z77 failing to start. What happens is when I press the power button the PC attempts to start-I can hear the fans spin up, then it shuts down immediately. When this problem occurs, it happens the first and second time I press the power button-but the PC starts as usual and runs fine the third time I press it. This might happen once out of every 15 start-ups.
> The other day it shut down completely for no reason while gaming, this has only happened once. It re-started fine.
> So far, I have hecked the chassis switch with a multimeter for continuity a few times and it seems ok. Ran intel burn test on the CPU-i2500k-it passed OK, it idles at 27 deg C average, the max temp gaming is 58 deg C. Case temps seem normal-I have ever only gotten a few high temp warnings for PCI-E-1 bus on the thermal radar-upping the intake case fans (Silverstone FT02) resolved this.
> I don't think this is to do with my PSU, and both 7970's are performing excellently without any issues since I installed 12.7 beta drivers. I'm running the 'auto-overclock' in the BIOS which is at 4.4GHz-I still haven't had time to have a proper play about with it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had similar issues, or any ideas as to what the problem is?
> I'm running the 1206 rev. BIOS-is it worth updating?
> Thanks in advance.
> G.


I think this most likely cause by OC. You're using auto OC, so the settings usually not optimized. Try reset to default & see whether the behaviour persist. If it still persist, you might need to RMA motherboard. I don't think PSU because if there is short somewhere you shouldn't be able to power ON your computer ever.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cladinshadows85*
> 
> Hey just seeing if anyone is using the Sabertooth Z77 in CM HAF X case with watercooling. I'm using the XSPC RX360 rad mounted at the top of the case and using fans in push config I'm finding the left most fan is in the way of the MOSFIT casing. I've modded the fan so the ATX 8 pin power can fit in but the fan blades keep hitting the MOSFIT casing. Should I have no fan there and what about the top 200mm fans, is their enough static pressure to pull air through the rad? Or should i grind away the casing so the fan blades don't hit it? I haven't yet tested the cpu at full load, but at idle CPU is around 25C. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Radiator fan(s) should work as push (or push/pull config), not pull in my opinion. In pull setup, the performance will be less than push.


----------



## iARDAs

So I recently sold my Gigabyte 670 Windforce 2GB GPU and got myself a Zotac GTX 670 4GB which has a 680 pcb and cooler. I am glad i did it for various reasons and one of the reasons is that now I believe I am using my Sabertooth Z77 to its full extend.

I had installed my soundcard to the top PCI input and therefor I could have never installed the turbo fan that came with motherboard. The reason I did so was that my Gigabytre 670 had a non reference cooling with 3 fans and If i had installed my soundcard to the middle PCI input, than the soundcard would have blocked 1 or 2 fans on the GPU which would result in poor cooling.

Now that I have a blower fan GPU, i could easily install my soundcard right below the GPU, which allowed me to install the turbo fan on the motherboard. Also the reason that I did not install the soundcard to the bottom input was because I will SLI my setup in the future.

And to my suprise I realized that I installed the rear turbo fan in the opposite direction, and I had to dismount my h80 fans to correct it.

While at it I also installed the covers for unused Rams, PCI slots etc...

Believe it or not after doing so my CPU temp is lower, and I should also thank the reference design GPU for that since it is not dumping hot air into the case like the Gigabyte 670.

Now my question is, when I get a 2nd Zotac 670 GTX, would the soundcard in the middle of both GPUs cause a problem?


----------



## Willhemmens

Does anyone have any photos of their board without heatsinks on?


----------



## billythekid2012

hi guy i just got another gtx 670 sc 4gb card and ran 3dmark11

And my over all score is low

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4091718

Thats with my i5-3570k at 4.5 and my cards at stock i shoould be getting in the high 14 to 15s with my set up.

so I wanted to know if some one on here had 2 670 and what score there getting.

here my rig kind off pissed



Had i did find a web site that was benchmarking some z77 boards and the sabertooth was one of the lowest in the list.

Is this board a low end board mybe thats why my score is low.


----------



## Trip99

Just updated to the latest BIOS to see if it solved my sleep problem (it did not*) and my network card stopped working. Deleting it in device manager and reinstalling it sorted it but that was a bit odd.

* there seem to be a few people having issues with power restarts etc. albeit different issues but it makes me wonder if there is a problem with this board in this area


----------



## Hanoverfist

Finally have this board running after waiting since June to build the Loop
Using Bios 1504 and has been flawless so far.
All drives recognized
All memory recognized
No complaints here.
Boot to win with this board is considerably faster than Old Croasshair iv with my Vertex4


----------



## skiline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> 4.6 overclock with great temps. BCLK at 103.0 played BF3 for 2hours no prob highest temp was core 2&3 at 72


what offset are you using or did you use manual cpu voltage ???
also what is your cooling system for the cpu ???

i did a similar OC but at 1.350v on the cpu stable for 2 hours on prime and did 50 paseson Intel burn test with no errors i think you could lower your cpu voltage a little bit if using manual cpu voltage but great temps mine were similar using antec 920 kuhler


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Can someone do me a favour and next time you have your
rig on for a while can you please just feel the protective
"armor" on the z77 sabertooth and can you please let me know
if it gets hot (around 80 to 85*F) i know you won't get the exact
temp but i just need to know if it gets hot or not.
plan on using paint that goes clear/transparent when it
the surface area reaches above 85*F or so.
thanks everyone.
and thanks again for the RAM info everyone ..much
appreciated.


----------



## PA99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Can someone do me a favour and next time you have your
> rig on for a while can you please just feel the protective
> "armor" on the z77 sabertooth and can you please let me know
> if it gets hot (around 80 to 85*F) i know you won't get the exact
> temp but i just need to know if it gets hot or not.
> plan on using paint that goes clear/transparent when it
> the surface area reaches above 85*F or so.
> thanks everyone.
> and thanks again for the RAM info everyone ..much
> appreciated.


hey , been running for about two hours. Gameplay..

Armor is cool to the touch everywhere except the top right. Just beside the memory. Maybe 25-30 C. It's warm , definitely not hot , imagine a decent paint job would be quite happy on it.

Hope that helps a bit.. Get a few more reports


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> Can someone do me a favour and next time you have your
> rig on for a while can you please just feel the protective
> "armor" on the z77 sabertooth and can you please let me know
> if it gets hot (around 80 to 85*F) i know you won't get the exact
> temp but i just need to know if it gets hot or not.
> plan on using paint that goes clear/transparent when it
> the surface area reaches above 85*F or so.
> thanks everyone.
> and thanks again for the RAM info everyone ..much
> appreciated.


I just did some bench marking and stability testing been on 5hours..top right is warmer than the rest of the board.. my ambient is 72f and the Armor feels cool to the touch. maybe 4 or 5 degrees warmer on right corner.. I dont have a temp gun sorry.. but definetly not 80 or 90 degrees


----------



## iARDAs

Is anyone running a 3WAY Sli with our motherboard?


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> hi guy i just got another gtx 670 sc 4gb card and ran 3dmark11
> And my over all score is low
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4091718
> Thats with my i5-3570k at 4.5 and my cards at stock i shoould be getting in the high 14 to 15s with my set up.
> so I wanted to know if some one on here had 2 670 and what score there getting.
> here my rig kind off pissed
> Had i did find a web site that was benchmarking some z77 boards and the sabertooth was one of the lowest in the list.
> Is this board a low end board mybe thats why my score is low.


Only 1 GTX 680 and useing a i7 3770k @4.6 but can easily see your loosing in combined score and anything cpu related.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4097047


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Is anyone running a 3WAY Sli with our motherboard?


Not A great 3 x sli board.. end up with 8x 4x 4

i could be wrong there might be 8x8x4


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Not A great 3 x sli board.. end up with 8x 4x 4
> i could be wrong there might be 8x8x4


Lets assume that i went tri way SLI with my 670s with this board.

How would the performance compare to a better board that has better triway SLI capabilities?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Lets assume that i went tri way SLI with my 670s with this board.
> 
> How would the performance compare to a better board that has better triway SLI capabilities?


Thats a great question but i think you might see some significant benefit to a board with more native x16 lanes.. spendy though. especially in the benchmark department you would notice it


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Thats a great question but i think you might see some significant benefit to a board with more native x16 lanes.. spendy though. especially in the benchmark department


I understand. Its not like i will go tri way sli soon. I would probably SLI my current system and if i ever have the need of a tri way SLI, i would just sell my 2 cards and get a new generation one.

But again , you never know what happens in life hence why I asked the questions.

Thanks for the answer.

I love this motherboard so much and I can think of changing it in the forseeable future.

However why better tri way SLI support wasnt installed is beyond me.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I understand. Its not like i will go tri way sli soon. I would probably SLI my current system and if i ever have the need of a tri way SLI, i would just sell my 2 cards and get a new generation one.
> 
> But again , you never know what happens in life hence why I asked the questions.
> 
> Thanks for the answer.
> 
> I love this motherboard so much and I can think of changing it in the forseeable future.
> 
> However why better tri way SLI support wasnt installed is beyond me.


Probably a cost factor..It would have shot the board price up and right now it fills a sweet spot at its current asking..


----------



## iARDAs

Ok few other questions about softwares for our product 

Does anyone use the below softwares that are available for our motherboard or Asus products?

Network iControl?

Asus Web Storage?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Ok few other questions about softwares for our product
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the below softwares that are available for our motherboard or Asus products?
> 
> Network iControl?
> 
> Asus Web Storage?


I have heard nothing but bad for the Network icontrol...not sure about web storage.


----------



## DeXel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Lets assume that i went tri way SLI with my 670s with this board.
> 
> How would the performance compare to a better board that has better triway SLI capabilities?


You cannot 3-way SLI on Sabertooth Z77.

SLI requires at least x8 per lane.
If I am not mistaken, Sabertooth gets 16 lanes from CPU and puts them towards slot 1 and 2 in x8 and x8 configuration.
It also gets x4 for the last slot from motherboards PCH.

The lanes that come from CPU are either PCI-E 3.0 or PCI-E 2.0 depending on CPU.

The lanes from PCH are PCI-E 2.0 on Intel series 6 and 7 motherboards.

Now, SLI is impossible due to PCI-E 3.0 x8/ PCI-E 3.0 x8/ PCI-E 2.0 x4 on Sabertooth Z77 (assuming that Ivy Bridge is installed for PCI-E 3.0); however you can crossfire with that configuration.

With x4 2.0 there will be a quite a bit impact on the performance. Some boards like my, use x8 3.0, x4 3.0, x4 3.0 which is still equal to x16 2.0, x8 2.0, x8 2.0 which is still OK for Crossfire without impacting almost any performance at all (There was an article about this, I will add a link if I find it).

The only way to provide X16 3.0 lanes across all lanes on Z77 is to use PLX chip which is quite expensive.

I believe Asus uses one on Maximus V Extreme, P8Z77-V PREMIUM, and P8Z77 WS only.

I hope this was helpful







.

EDIT: The article http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/11.html


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You cannot 3-way SLI on Sabertooth Z77.
> SLI requires at least x8 per lane.
> If I am not mistaken, Sabertooth gets 16 lanes from CPU and puts them towards slot 1 and 2 in x8 and x8 configuration.
> It also gets x4 for the last slot from motherboards PCH.
> The lanes that come from CPU are either PCI-E 3.0 or PCI-E 2.0 depending on CPU.
> The lanes from PCH are PCI-E 2.0 on Intel series 6 and 7 motherboards.
> Now, SLI is impossible due to PCI-E 3.0 x8/ PCI-E 3.0 x8/ PCI-E 2.0 x4 on Sabertooth Z77 (assuming that Ivy Bridge is installed for PCI-E 3.0); however you can crossfire with that configuration.
> With x4 2.0 there will be a quite a bit impact on the performance. Some boards like my, use x8 3.0, x4 3.0, x4 3.0 which is still equal to x16 2.0, x8 2.0, x8 2.0 which is still OK for Crossfire without impacting almost any performance at all (There was an article about this, I will add a link if I find it).
> The only way to provide X16 3.0 lanes across all lanes on Z77 is to use PLX chip which is quite expensive.
> I believe Asus uses one on Maximus V Extreme, P8Z77-V PREMIUM, and P8Z77 WS only.
> I hope this was helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> EDIT: The article http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/11.html


That is Helpful


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeXel*
> 
> You cannot 3-way SLI on Sabertooth Z77.
> SLI requires at least x8 per lane.
> If I am not mistaken, Sabertooth gets 16 lanes from CPU and puts them towards slot 1 and 2 in x8 and x8 configuration.
> It also gets x4 for the last slot from motherboards PCH.
> The lanes that come from CPU are either PCI-E 3.0 or PCI-E 2.0 depending on CPU.
> The lanes from PCH are PCI-E 2.0 on Intel series 6 and 7 motherboards.
> Now, SLI is impossible due to PCI-E 3.0 x8/ PCI-E 3.0 x8/ PCI-E 2.0 x4 on Sabertooth Z77 (assuming that Ivy Bridge is installed for PCI-E 3.0); however you can crossfire with that configuration.
> With x4 2.0 there will be a quite a bit impact on the performance. Some boards like my, use x8 3.0, x4 3.0, x4 3.0 which is still equal to x16 2.0, x8 2.0, x8 2.0 which is still OK for Crossfire without impacting almost any performance at all (There was an article about this, I will add a link if I find it).
> The only way to provide X16 3.0 lanes across all lanes on Z77 is to use PLX chip which is quite expensive.
> I believe Asus uses one on Maximus V Extreme, P8Z77-V PREMIUM, and P8Z77 WS only.
> I hope this was helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> EDIT: The article http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/11.html


Good information thank you and +rep.

I will than just go for SLI and I am assuming that with 670 SLI this board will be just great 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have heard nothing but bad for the Network icontrol...not sure about web storage.


I will stay away from it than thanks once again


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Good information thank you and +rep.
> 
> I will than just go for SLI and I am assuming that with 670 SLI this board will be just great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will stay away from it than thanks once again


I have 2 evga gtx 670 sc 4gb cards on this board and a i5-3570k

And my 3dmark11 p score is just bad

here is one at 4.8 on the cpu and +90 on the gpu offset

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4096517

Iam starting to think the preformace with sli on this board sucks


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> I have 2 evga gtx 670 sc 4gb cards on this board and a i5-3570k
> And my 3dmark11 p score is just bad
> here is one at 4.8 on the cpu and +90 on the gpu offset
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/4096517
> Iam starting to think the preformace with sli on this board sucks


Sli on the board isnt where your problem is bud. Your graphics score is almost double the frames compaired to my 1xGTX 680 as i posted earlier. Your issue is with the CPU itself my i7 3770 @ 4.6 is 2k higher on the physics score which means that i5 without the hyper threading just isnt able to push out as much as my i7 3770k.


----------



## billythekid2012

ok i am going to sale my 3570k and get the 3770k
i wanted the 3770k in the frist place but evryone said get the i5


----------



## razalom

Well H100 installed and machine is complete enough now


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PA99*
> 
> hey , been running for about two hours. Gameplay..
> Armor is cool to the touch everywhere except the top right. Just beside the memory. Maybe 25-30 C. It's warm , definitely not hot , imagine a decent paint job would be quite happy on it.
> Hope that helps a bit.. Get a few more reports


thanks for the info.. and thanks Hanoverfist also. very
helpful.. but i wanted it to be a little hot.lol. but that's ok.
see the link below for what i'm talking about.was going to
airbrush a kickass water drop design on the armor part then
cover it up with a white coat of temp change to transparent
paint. then paint blue flames with white back ground in
temp change transparent paint. so when the armor got hot it
would go from blue flames to a bunch of water beads. both being
a blue and white colour combination.
http://www.paintwithpearl.com/youtubecolorchange.htm

thanks again everyone.
when it's done i'll def post pics.
just not sure might have to change my game plan
now that i know it doesn't really get that hot.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> ok i am going to sale my 3570k and get the 3770k
> i wanted the 3770k in the frist place but evryone said get the i5


Who is "Everyone" and they should quiet DOWN..lol Get what YOU want:thumb:


----------



## Elenion

Hello, I just build a comp with following spec:

i7 3770k
Asus Sabertooth Z77
4 x 4GB G. Skill Ripjaw X (16GB)
EVGA GeForce GTX 670 4GB Superclocked+ w/Backplate (2-way SLI)
Intel 520 SSD 240GB
Caviar Black SATA Internal Hard Drive 1TB

I flashed BIOS to 1504
Nothing's installed ATM

- Ran Memtest86 with 2 passes twice (at the end of 2nd pass bunch of texts and symbols fill the screen first run and second run, it didn't freeze and was kept running)
(used v4.0a, currently trying v3.5b if it makes any difference but other than screen glitch I did not see any errors)

-This is my first real build, I would really appreciate if I could get some help optimize and configure in BIOS menu. I really don't know where to start other than doing boot order.

-Is it possible to only install Thermal Radar and not other stuff in Asus Suite utility software thing?

-Is LucidLogix Virtu MVP worth using it with my setup?

-What is a good benchmark/test software for testing graphics and gaming?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Hello, I just build a comp with following spec:
> i7 3770k
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> 4 x 4GB G. Skill Ripjaw X (16GB)
> EVGA GeForce GTX 670 4GB Superclocked+ w/Backplate (2-way SLI)
> Intel 520 SSD 240GB
> Caviar Black SATA Internal Hard Drive 1TB
> - I flashed BIOS to 1504
> - Nothing's installed ATM
> - Ran Memtest86 with 2 passes twice (at the end of 2nd pass bunch of texts and symbols fill the screen first run and second run)
> (used v4.0a, currently trying v3.5b if it makes any difference but other than screen glitch I did not see any errors)
> -This is my first real build, I would really appreciate if I could get some help optimize and configure in BIOS menu. I really don't know where to start other than doing boot order.
> -Is it possible to only install Thermal Radar and not other stuff in Asus Suite utility software thing?
> -Is LucidLogix Virtu MVP worth using it with my setup?
> -What is a good benchmark/test software for testing graphics and gaming?


ok . yes you can pick what you want out of AI suite2..so its possible to install only thermal radar..Dont install virtu mvp..I use Heaven 3.0 to load my 680 and you can do the same with your 670 and make adjustments to your card. watch this or any other guide





and this will help solve some bios questionshttp://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69 this is uefi bios tuning guide

and heres a list of OC and benchmark softwarehttp://www.overclock.net/t/1293395/oc-benchmark-toolkit#post_17920532


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> ok . yes you can pick what you want out of AI suite2..so its possible to install only thermal radar..Dont install virtu mvp..I use Heaven 3.0 to load my 680 and you can do the same with your 670 and make adjustments to your card. watch this or any other guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this will help solve some bios questionshttp://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69 this is uefi bios tuning guide
> and heres a list of OC and benchmark softwarehttp://www.overclock.net/t/1293395/oc-benchmark-toolkit#post_17920532


Thanks!

I was hoping if someone with similar setup as mine help me what to configure for overclocking. I'll try to read these for now.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Thanks!
> I was hoping if someone with similar setup as mine help me what to configure for overclocking. I'll try to read these for now.


Posts your questions back here and someone will hook you up


----------



## Elenion

Could someone with similar setup as mine help me with overclocking in the BIOS?









i7 3770k
Noctua NH-D14
Asus Sabertooth Z77
4 x 4GB G. Skill Ripjaw X (16GB)
EVGA GeForce GTX 670 4GB Superclocked+ w/Backplate (2-way SLI)
Intel 520 SSD 240GB
Caviar Black SATA Internal Hard Drive 1TB


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Who is "Everyone" and they should quiet DOWN..lol Get what YOU want:thumb:


This is in reply to the original comment, but I agree with this post! Depends on what your using it for man... I was having the same internal struggle, but since I decided that I was mostly going to be gaming and using basic spreadsheet applications. Therefore, I decided to save myself some money WITHOUT sacrificing performance and go with the i5. IMHO you will only benefit from the i7 if your doing things like virtualization...rendering and video editing and stuff... I love my i5 and was able to buy a nice SSD with the extra money I saved


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Could someone with similar setup as mine help me with overclocking in the BIOS?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i7 3770k
> Noctua NH-D14
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> 4 x 4GB G. Skill Ripjaw X (16GB)
> EVGA GeForce GTX 670 4GB Superclocked+ w/Backplate (2-way SLI)
> Intel 520 SSD 240GB
> Caviar Black SATA Internal Hard Drive 1TB


After bit more reading all over place, I want to shoot for 4500 MHz, but I am still confused regarding voltage and whatever other stuff I need to tweak.


----------



## Drecapz

Hello, I've recently updated my bios to 1504 and when I boot up I get a black screen.
Sometimes I have to change ports back of my gpu. To bring up desktop screen. Is there a way to fix this? Should I go back to the old 08xx bios?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> After bit more reading all over place, I want to shoot for 4500 MHz, but I am still confused regarding voltage and whatever other stuff I need to tweak.


This should get you started for 4.5 you can experiment with offset a little too.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> Hello, I've recently updated my bios to 1504 and when I boot up I get a black screen.
> Sometimes I have to change ports back of my gpu. To bring up desktop screen. Is there a way to fix this? Should I go back to the old 08xx bios?


I posted my bios and is 1504 and runs perfect.. have a look.. If not revert back to a previous working version:thumb:


----------



## Drecapz

When I do the asus ii suite, 1504 didn't show up so I had to asus driver site. Should I update to the latest bios that the asus software allows me?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> When I do the asus ii suite, 1504 didn't show up so I had to asus driver site. Should I update to the latest bios that the asus software allows me?


You could try 1403 and lower..


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> This should get you started for 4.5 you can experiment with offset a little too.


Thanks!

Did you OC your RAM as well? Could you show me your setting?
When you tweak offsetting voltage, what should I look at it as a reference and finding optimum setting?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Did you OC your RAM as well? Could you show me your setting?


Have not got that far yet.. getting 3770k and gtx 680 stable ..then on to RAM..


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have not got that far yet.. getting 3770k and gtx 680 stable ..then on to RAM..


Offsetting basically adjusts the voltage and clock speed based on load right?
When I adjust that based on your setting what should I be using/looking as a reference to optimize it?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Offsetting basically adjusts the voltage and clock speed based on load right?
> When I adjust that based on your setting what should I be using/looking as a reference to optimize it?


Voltage offset works in two directions depending on if you use the plus sign or the minus.. and it affects both idle and loaded volts...Right now i am currently running 46 multiplier and a .045 plus offset.. so im adding a positive volt increase at idle and during the loading...the voltage will increase as loaded increases on the cores.. so at idle, 0.960v and scales to 1.264v when 100% load
Offset only affects voltage..

I dont suggest using a negative offset .. if you get it wrong it undervolts too much and you cant boot


----------



## Drecapz

I flash back to 1403 but the problem still occurs. I have to physically plug my DVI port into the next one on my 580 for my desktop to show up, I have to do it back and forth, switching from the original one that I boot up. Is it a driver issue or ?


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Voltage offset works in two directions depending on if you use the plus sign or the minus.. and it affects both idle and loaded volts...Right now i am currently running 46 multiplier and a .045 plus offset.. so im adding a positive volt increase at idle and during the loading...the voltage will increase as loaded increases on the cores.. so at idle, 0.960v and scales to 1.264v when 100% load
> Offset only affects voltage..
> I dont suggest using a negative offset .. if you get it wrong it undervolts too much and you cant boot


Thanks, so only postive offset.
How would you determine how high or optimal number is though?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Thanks, so only postive offset.
> How would you determine how high or optimal number is though?


I have done two days of testing and have read about setting offset for days so its rather simple.. as you start increasing your multiplier so will the need to increase your offset.. by how much is determined by the ability to actually boot into windows then test at loaded without thermal throttling.. I have found the sweet spot for my setup at positive .045v and 46 multi.. If i go less of offset i am unstable and programs dont load and if i go higher it only adds to my loaded temps which is not what i want:thumb:

loaded this morning



Just checking temps and volts here..long term stable test with prime will be overnight..tonight ..will see in am what happens


----------



## Drecapz

I keep hearing about resetting the CMOS, where can I find this within the mobo? I am looking for it, I must be blind but am I looking for pins or a button on the mobo?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> I keep hearing about resetting the CMOS, where can I find this within the mobo? I am looking for it, I must be blind but am I looking for pins or a button on the mobo?


Just to the left of the green power led on the bottom of the board..take the jumper off and place on the other pins. do this with machine powered down and board power off



page 2-14 in manual


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> Hello, I've recently updated my bios to 1504 and when I boot up I get a black screen.
> Sometimes I have to change ports back of my gpu. To bring up desktop screen. Is there a way to fix this? Should I go back to the old 08xx bios?


hey have you tried uninstalling then re installing your card drivers?


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have done two days of testing and have read about setting offset for days so its rather simple.. as you start increasing your multiplier so will the need to increase your offset.. by how much is determined by the ability to actually boot into windows then test at loaded without thermal throttling.. I have found the sweet spot for my setup at positive .045v and 46 multi.. If i go less of offset i am unstable and programs dont load and if i go higher it only adds to my loaded temps which is not what i want:thumb:
> loaded this morning
> 
> Just checking temps and volts here..long term stable test with prime will be overnight..tonight ..will see in am what happens


What software is that showing your temps and other numbers?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> What software is that showing your temps and other numbers?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1293395/oc-benchmark-toolkit#post_17920651

totally cool little Gadget.. customize your preferences by right clicking the sensor and add to gadget


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1293395/oc-benchmark-toolkit#post_17920651
> totally cool little Gadget.. customize your preferences by right clicking the sensor and add to gadget


Thanks, I think I'll just use your offset value to start (@4600 mhz)
I assume other settings are same as your previous screenshots?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Thanks, I think I'll just use your offset value to start (@4600 mhz)
> I assume other settings are same as your previous screenshots?


yep.. oh i noticed my ram had kicked down from 2133 thats the only thing i changed..must have been one of my failed boots.. you have a good air cooler so yeah let it rip:thumb:


----------



## Drecapz

Thank you Hanover, youve been helpful! I have solved my first problem but now I have a worst problem. My 2nd PCI-E slot seems to be dead. After fixing my first problem, I notice I could not SLI. it will not detect the 2nd GPU; When I goto Bios and look it says "Not Present" when the clearly the card is plugged in snugged and connect to the power supply. Do you think its a dead PCIE SLOT?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> Thank you Hanover, youve been helpful! I have solved my first problem but now I have a worst problem. My 2nd PCI-E slot seems to be dead. After fixing my first problem, I notice I could not SLI. it will not detect the 2nd GPU; When I goto Bios and look it says "Not Present" when the clearly the card is plugged in snugged and connect to the power supply. Do you think its a dead PCIE SLOT?


Try both cards one at a time in the 2nd slot and see what happens.


----------



## Hanoverfist

i dont sli..but is there a setting for sli in the bios anywhere..you missed.. looking now.,.

The only thing i see for PCIe slots 1 and 2 is under Advanced ...NB PCIe Config.. and that is just setting the link speed so i guess have both set to gen3.. or try and restore your board back to the original bios that was working...other then that.. I dont know


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> Thank you Hanover, youve been helpful! I have solved my first problem but now I have a worst problem. My 2nd PCI-E slot seems to be dead. After fixing my first problem, I notice I could not SLI. it will not detect the 2nd GPU; When I goto Bios and look it says "Not Present" when the clearly the card is plugged in snugged and connect to the power supply. Do you think its a dead PCIE SLOT?


I am using SLI, I haven't got to install graphics driver and enable SLI yet but in BIOS NB PCIe Configuration setting I am able to set PCIEX16_1 and PCIEX16_2 on Gen3. (So my system can detect both of them)

I am also using version 1504 so you can _probably_ rule that out.


----------



## Grinch80

Hi all, new owner and wanted to join the thread. Very happy with my move from Q6600/P5Q-Deluxe. Been playing around for a week and think I've found the sweet spot at 4.4. Need to upgrade cooling before shooting for more. New rig is Prime blend stable for 12 hours, IBT stable, and OCCT stable. Most bios settings set to stock/auto (except for offset and LLC).

OS: Windows 7 Pro 64
CPU: Intel 3770K @ 4.4 (1.211v @ load; 0.030 offset; Medium LLC)
CPU Cooling: Thermalright TRUE + Scythe SFF21F
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77 (BIOS 1504)
Memory: Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 (2x4GB)
Video: XFX Radeon 6950 @ 900/1450 (stock voltage, 6970 shaders unlocked)
Monitor: ASUS VW224U LCD (1680x1050)
PSU: PCP&C 750w
Case: Antec 1200
Sound: Onboard Realtek ALC892
Hard Drives: OCZ Vertex 2 120GB (v1.35), WD Caviar Black 1TBx2, Seagate FreeAgent 500GB (external)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grinch80*
> 
> Hi all, new owner and wanted to join the thread. Very happy with my move from Q6600/P5Q-Deluxe. Been playing around for a week and think I've found the sweet spot at 4.4. Need to upgrade cooling before shooting for more. New rig is Prime blend stable for 12 hours, IBT stable, and OCCT stable. Most bios settings set to stock/auto (except for offset and LLC).
> OS: Windows 7 Pro 64
> CPU: Intel 3770K @ 4.4 (1.211v @ load; 0.030 offset; Medium LLC)
> CPU Cooling: Thermalright TRUE + Scythe SFF21F
> Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77 (BIOS 1504)
> Memory: Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 (2x4GB)
> Video: XFX Radeon 6950 @ 900/1450 (stock voltage, 6970 shaders unlocked)
> Monitor: ASUS VW224U LCD (1680x1050)
> PSU: PCP&C 750w
> Case: Antec 1200
> Sound: Onboard Realtek ALC892
> Hard Drives: OCZ Vertex 2 120GB (v1.35), WD Caviar Black 1TBx2, Seagate FreeAgent 500GB (external)


Welcome to OCN


----------



## Drecapz

Hanover, I did the Reset bios trick, It got 1504 to work properly, But How do I actually Reset? I put the pins in the 2-3 slot, unplugged and then placed them back to 1-2 slot. Am I doing it wrong? Also, you think that BIOS flash could of messed up my PCI slot? I checked under BIOS and it doesnt read anything. Both cards are working, The top slot works perfectly, its just the 2nd.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> Hanover, I did the Reset bios trick, It got 1504 to work properly, But How do I actually Reset? I put the pins in the 2-3 slot, unplugged and then placed them back to 1-2 slot. Am I doing it wrong? Also, you think that BIOS flash could of messed up my PCI slot? I checked under BIOS and it doesnt read anything. Both cards are working, The top slot works perfectly, its just the 2nd.


Clearing the CMOS only resets your current bios..Do you want to flash back to an earlier Revision bios?? so using that jumper sets all settings in current bios back to defaults....doesnt change bios revision.. Do you need instructions on flashing back? have you tried the 2nd slot with the working card from the 1st slot...I mean only have one card plugged into the board...and in the 2nd slot...


----------



## Drecapz

I have indivdually tested both cards in the 2nd slot. Both cards work on the 1st pcie, but not the 2nd one. I would like to go back to original 0803 before i had all these problems. I am hoping that my PCIE isnt dead but it isnt showing up whatsoever. Any advice you can give, I will be much appreciated.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> I have indivdually tested both cards in the 2nd slot. Both cards work on the 1st pcie, but not the 2nd one. I would like to go back to original 0803 before i had all these problems. I am hoping that my PCIE isnt dead but it isnt showing up whatsoever. Any advice you can give, I will be much appreciated.


ok...do you have a usb stick? If you do follow the steps for bios flash back on page 2-43..extract the downloaded bios of your choice to the usb stick..rename the file to Z77ST.CAP..now power down and put the usb stick into the port shown on page 2-43..press and hold the bios flash button for three seconds ..you will see the light on the button start to flash..when its done the light goes out..simple and your done,, remove stick and reboot ..go into bios and see your new revision..
If at this point your 2nd slot is still not functioning ,,time to start thinking RMA


----------



## Drecapz

noooooo, but i will get one asap.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> noooooo, but i will get one asap.


what method did you flash to 1504 with?


----------



## Drecapz

i Used the Asus II suite.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> i Used the Asus II suite.


Its up to you what method you use to flash .. I prefer the usb stick and using bios flashback method..


----------



## Elenion

Hanoverfist,

Which test are you running for Prime95 and for how long? Do you use any other stress test software like Intel Burn Test etc.?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Hanoverfist,
> Which test are you running for Prime95 and for how long? Do you use any other stress test software like Intel Burn Test etc.?


I use small and blend in prime ..and running for twelve hours..another way I view stable is daily use..does it crash when I game for hours..stable is all just relative to me and what I use my computer for on daily basis..I also like occt linpack. Hour of that. The newest version of OCCT has IBT included in cpu LINPACK as well as normal OCCT


----------



## MotherFo

Grinch & Hanoverfist, What about Whea errors?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Grinch & Hanoverfist, What about Whea errors?


What about it?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What about it?


Did you encounter any? I didn't see Grinch mention anything.

Both of your voltages look pretty good, so I'm wondering if that is in line with the thoughts that the 3570ks are low binned 3770s.

Semi Cross post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1247869/official-the-ivy-bridge-stable-suicide-club-guides-voltages-temps-bios-templates-inc-spreadsheet/1400_20#post_17775172

I seem to be stable, but not Whea error stable. The whole Whea thing seems strange to me.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Did you encounter any? I didn't see Grinch mention anything.
> Both of your voltages look pretty good, so I'm wondering if that is in line with the thoughts that the 3570ks are low binned 3770s.


I actually have had them during testing..Trying to find the right voltage i had a few.. Actually today I raised cpuLLC to ultra high to remain stable in prime. since then have not had any prolbems. still 46 at .045v.. raised mem to 2200 at 1.7v


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> I seem to be stable, but not Whea error stable.


I know we have different cpu ..but 45 for me stable was .025 positive offset and high LLC ..You might just need a slight volt Increase..SLIGHT
Quote:


> Load voltage: 1.232v


maybe try a positive offset and try to get 1.25 1.26...just a theory..but i experirence strange problems when slightly undervolted...


----------



## Augusto

@4.6Ghz 24/7 stable


----------



## nike23osu

@4.6 24/7 Stable with a 3770k


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> @4.6 24/7 Stable with a 3770k


Memory specs?


----------



## Grinch80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Grinch & Hanoverfist, What about Whea errors?


Was reading about WHEA errors and experienced them myself on several occasions. Sometimes I'd get a Prime95 error at the same time, othertimes just the WHEA error. For me, I found it was simply a matter of increasing VCORE, or in my case, the offset. Once I could pass a battery of tests (e.g., Prime95, IBT, OCCT) AND not get any WHEA errors, I knew I was stable. My recommendation would be to increase VCORE or offset until you can run Prime95 overnight without any WHEA errors. In my case, had to bump up the offset twice (0.005 each time) to fully eliminate the errors. The funny thing is, sometimes I'd pass a stress test and think I was stable, but the WHEA errors still came. So I now consider WHEA errors, or rather the elimination of them, as another checkpoint in the path to stability.


----------



## nike23osu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> Memory specs?


16 gigs G.Skill TridentX 2400


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grinch80*
> 
> Was reading about WHEA errors and experienced them myself on several occasions. Sometimes I'd get a Prime95 error at the same time, othertimes just the WHEA error. For me, I found it was simply a matter of increasing VCORE, or in my case, the offset. Once I could pass a battery of tests (e.g., Prime95, IBT, OCCT) AND not get any WHEA errors, I knew I was stable. My recommendation would be to increase VCORE or offset until you can run Prime95 overnight without any WHEA errors. In my case, had to bump up the offset twice (0.005 each time) to fully eliminate the errors. The funny thing is, sometimes I'd pass a stress test and think I was stable, but the WHEA errors still came. So I now consider WHEA errors, or rather the elimination of them, as another checkpoint in the path to stability.


Thank you Grinch and Hanoverfist for your responses. I'll give it another go.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Yesterday testing not so good..multi of 47 thru 48 and very unstable .using offset voltage method proved a little tuffer than expected..I think a manual voltage for me at those clocks will prove to be better but GOD for the heat....so quick too.. running prime for ten minutes actually crashed machine so bad it would reboot..sigh...today I am happy with these setting and probably leave this..prime runs and no crashing so far.. and yesterday's whea errors were high...today none..YET..


----------



## hman2012

Hi Everyone,

I am new here, and I have a display problem that might be related to Sabertooth MoBo. My system specification is Core I7 3770, 16GB Kingston RAM, Sabertooth & Asus 6770 PCI-E, 27" Samsung LS27B350HS/XM, Windows Home Premium 64bit.

During internet surfing or doing work with Ms Office or play movie, the monitor screen suddenly turn off for 1 second, then return normal again, this happened every 10 - 20 minute.

I have tried :

1. Remove the Asus 6770 PCI-E, and plug in Onboard HDMI port, problem maintain the same
2. Plug with other new Asus 6770 Card, choose only PCI-E in BIOS, problem maintain
3. Upgrade the latest BIOS (ver 1504), not help also
4. Reformat the windows, problem also
5. Monitor had been test with other PC, and it's working fine
6. Test with 22" Samsung LCD with VGA port, problem solve

Quetion :
1. The motherboard can't support HDMI? How can i solve this problem.

Thank you very much


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nike23osu*
> 
> 16 gigs G.Skill TridentX 2400


You should be getting better score than me.
I'm using G.Skill Sniper @ 1600


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hman2012*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> I am new here, and I have a display problem that might be related to Sabertooth MoBo. My system specification is Core I7 3770, 16GB Kingston RAM, Sabertooth & Asus 6770 PCI-E, 27" Samsung LS27B350HS/XM, Windows Home Premium 64bit.
> During internet surfing or doing work with Ms Office or play movie, the monitor screen suddenly turn off for 1 second, then return normal again, this happened every 10 - 20 minute.
> I have tried :
> 1. Remove the Asus 6770 PCI-E, and plug in Onboard HDMI port, problem maintain the same
> 2. Plug with other new Asus 6770 Card, choose only PCI-E in BIOS, problem maintain
> 3. Upgrade the latest BIOS (ver 1504), not help also
> 4. Reformat the windows, problem also
> 5. Monitor had been test with other PC, and it's working fine
> 6. Test with 22" Samsung LCD with VGA port, problem solve
> Quetion :
> 1. The motherboard can't support HDMI? How can i solve this problem.
> Thank you very much


Do you have virtu MVP installed? have you tried different cables from 6770 to monitor? latest drivers for 6770? different drivers for 6770?
Check your device manager for any yellow ? Do you have a driver for the Monitor?

did you try selecting GEN 2 for your pci e instead of AUTO


----------



## Grinch80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yesterday testing not so good..multi of 47 thru 48 and very unstable .using offset voltage method proved a little tuffer than expected..I think a manual voltage for me at those clocks will prove to be better but GOD for the heat....so quick too.. running prime for ten minutes actually crashed machine so bad it would reboot..sigh...today I am happy with these setting and probably leave this..prime runs and no crashing so far.. and yesterday's whea errors were high...today none..YET..


Offsets ARE a pain, coming from a Q6600 where no such concept exists, I feel it. Took me a week of constant testing to convert me. I started with a fixed VCORE, then realized how cool (literally) it is with the new chips that they dynamically clock and adjust voltage. Another thing I realized is that I no longer have to (or should) disable all the power saving stuff in the BIOS...this was the first thing I always did when buying a new mobo. New world order I guess, but not too bad methinks. We get the best of both worlds...power savings and chip longevity (I ran my Q6600 overclocked 24/7 for 4 years so this is debatable) and easier then ever overclocking.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> realized how cool (literally) it is with the new chips that they dynamically clock and adjust voltage


I agree


----------



## hman2012

Hi,

I have tried three different HDMI cable, and also install the latest 6770 driver ( even i take out the 6770, use onboard Intel 4000 graphic, also having problem ) . I did download the monitor driver as well, does not help too.

I will try to select Gen2 for PCI-E tonight, this is the only thing I not yet try, will come back here with the latest result.

Thanks


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hman2012*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> I am new here, and I have a display problem that might be related to Sabertooth MoBo. My system specification is Core I7 3770, 16GB Kingston RAM, Sabertooth & Asus 6770 PCI-E, 27" Samsung LS27B350HS/XM, Windows Home Premium 64bit.
> During internet surfing or doing work with Ms Office or play movie, the monitor screen suddenly turn off for 1 second, then return normal again, this happened every 10 - 20 minute.
> I have tried :
> 1. Remove the Asus 6770 PCI-E, and plug in Onboard HDMI port, problem maintain the same
> 2. Plug with other new Asus 6770 Card, choose only PCI-E in BIOS, problem maintain
> 3. Upgrade the latest BIOS (ver 1504), not help also
> 4. Reformat the windows, problem also
> 5. Monitor had been test with other PC, and it's working fine
> 6. Test with 22" Samsung LCD with VGA port, problem solve
> Quetion :
> 1. The motherboard can't support HDMI? How can i solve this problem.
> Thank you very much


Are you getting a message like this after the monitor turns on again?

_'display driver has stopped responding and has recovered successfully'_


----------



## Elenion

How fast (% speed) should assist fans be at idle and load? What about the CPU fans and case fans?

How do you OC RAM?
I know you have to tweak DRAM Voltage but what else?
How do you test its stability as you OC? Prime95? or Memtest86+?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> How fast (% speed) should assist fans be at idle and load? What about the CPU fans and case fans?
> How do you OC RAM?
> I know you have to tweak DRAM Voltage but what else?
> How do you test its stability as you OC? Prime95? or Memtest86+?


My assist fans idle at 4100 and 4700 have set to turbo.. i like hearing them spool up when load increases.. dont know the rpm at load havent checked that yet..you can set your fan profiles to whatever you want in thermal radar or set some generic settings in bios.. set your ram frequency and voltage manually or you can use a xmp profile or you can increase your base clock ..those will all raise your mem frequency but base clock and xmp affect cpu as well. I set my ram and voltage manually..its not much yet


heres a list that another member has made of utilities http://www.overclock.net/t/1293395/oc-benchmark-toolkit#post_17920532


----------



## RobertIH4

How safe is it to flash to a new bios with this board? It doesn't have a second backup bios like some video cards do right?

I ask because for some reason whenever I set Vcore offset it always resets to auto no matter what. Very happy with the board otherwise though.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertIH4*
> 
> How safe is it to flash to a new bios with this board? It doesn't have a second backup bios like some video cards do right?
> I ask because for some reason whenever I set Vcore offset it always resets to auto no matter what. Very happy with the board otherwise though.


its very simple and i have not had any issues through 3 flashes.. I use the bios flashback method
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2150#post_17930989


----------



## Hanoverfist

Cinebench run at 4.5


----------



## Zipping

Hi Everyone, I am new here. So hello to you all







.

I have a question I hope you can answer. I've now had my computer for about a week and everything seems to be working as it should. Except for one thing - the AI Suite which sometimes gives me some warnings like "+3.3V 0.000 V"
So I started to monitor my system with CPUID and this is the result after I've played games.

Now my question, are the numbers normal?

Oh and my system is as follows:
*Processor*: i7 3770
*heatsink*: Hyper 212 evo
*Motherboard*: Sabertooth z77 (Bios 1504)
*RAM*: Corsair DDR3 8GB PC1866 CL9 Vengeance
*PSU*: Corsair TX750W (taken from my old computer 3-4 years old)
*Graphic card*: Asus GTX 680 DirectCU II TOP
*Case*: antec 1200

Everything in BIOS is standard has not changed anything.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipping*
> 
> Hi Everyone, I am new here. So hello to you all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I have a question I hope you can answer. I've now had my computer for about a week and everything seems to be working as it should. Except for one thing - the AI Suite which sometimes gives me some warnings like "+3.3V 0.000 V"
> So I started to monitor my system with CPUID and this is the result after I've played games.
> Now my question, are the numbers normal?
> Oh and my system is as follows:
> *Processor*: i7 3770
> *heatsink*: Hyper 212 evo
> *Motherboard*: Sabertooth z77 (Bios 1504)
> *RAM*: Corsair DDR3 8GB PC1866 CL9 Vengeance
> *PSU*: Corsair TX750W (taken from my old computer 3-4 years old)
> *Graphic card*: Asus GTX 680 DirectCU II TOP
> *Case*: antec 1200
> Everything in BIOS is standard has not changed anything.


from that shot. your bios is reporting your 3v rail dropping out ..I would keep an eye on that..does it only happen when you put a load on the cpu? Have you experienced any other issues? I have the same PSU as you.

typical report from 3v rail while under load would be


----------



## keesgelder

Hello gentlemen,

Reported in this tread a while ago about RAM not working properly. Anyway, went to my retailer yesterday and got my board replaced. Everything is working fine now!

I had no real need for getting a new mobo but I just liked the look and features of this board so much that I couldn't hold myself back







.

Here's how my rig looks right now:









I'm finally really starting to be satisfied with both the components and the looks of my rig







. Be sure to let me know what you think!

As for the board, I haven't done that much testing yet, but so far the board is very promising. While doing a Heaven benchmark (everything maxed of course, at 1080p) with everything on stock my average FPS increased from 43.0 to 44.0 compared to my old motherboard (Asus P8P67), which is about 2.3%. Now, I do not find that bad at all for just a mobo upgrade. Enabling Virtu MVP boosted my FPS to 44.9, OK I guess but not that much.

The only complaint I have so far is that the AI Suite software was a pain for me to install (thermal radar wasn't working at first), I ran into problems which I think were caused by me upgrading from an older version of the AI suite for my old mobo. I had to fiddle around in the register but in the end I managed to install the software properly. Anyway, not really a big deal.

Great experience with this board overall so far!


----------



## Hanoverfist

^^^^
Quote:


> I'm finally really starting to be satisfied with both the components and the looks of my rig . Be sure to let me know what you think!


Cable management is Top Shelf







Nice Work


----------



## Friction

Do we need to have PWM fans to be able to control the speed via the BIOS or a Fan Controller?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Do we need to have PWM fans to be able to control the speed via the BIOS or a Fan Controller?


Nope. I have no pwm fans and board fan headers and my fan controller ramp the voltage to them just fine.


----------



## Zipping

it is only under load and I have not experienced any other issues.
But now I tried to use the same program as you, along with CPUID. And I got 2 different results. which one should I trust?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipping*
> 
> it is only under load and I have not experienced any other issues.
> But now I tried to use the same program as you, along with CPUID. And I got 2 different results. which one should I trust?


I would tend to trust the open hardware program you just got.. If your 3v line was actually dropping ,,Your system would crash due to severe undervolt of cpu.. trust me i have set a CPU voltage offset so low that my system would not even boot.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Nope. I have no pwm fans and board fan headers and my fan controller ramp the voltage to them just fine.


Thanks for the reply.


----------



## keesgelder

Small question: my Corsair H60 radiator fan is (obviously) connected to the CPU fan header on the board. I connected my pump to the chassis fan 4 header. However, would the CPU optional fan header be better for the pump? According to the H60 manual any 3 pin header should be fine but I want to make sure I get optimal temps.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> from that shot. your bios is reporting your 3v rail dropping out ..I would keep an eye on that..does it only happen when you put a load on the cpu? Have you experienced any other issues? I have the same PSU as you.
> typical report from 3v rail while under load would be


I've gotten some of those random warnings from AI Suite as well. I got mine on the 5v. It also would occasionally throw a warning for a fan speed or say the fan speed went from 2000 to 0 then it would be normal again.

Part of me feels like it was just the software freaking out.


----------



## Clmehnry

I just put together my s-tooth Z77 last night but it wont boot

I'm using 2 sets of Samsung MV-3v4G3D/US DDR3 1600 (4x4GB)

The mem led stays red, after holding down the memok button it flashes slowly, then flashes a little faster, then goes back to solid without booting

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clmehnry*
> 
> I just put together my s-tooth Z77 last night but it wont boot
> I'm using 2 sets of Samsung MV-3v4G3D/US DDR3 1600 (4x4GB)
> The mem led stays red, after holding down the memok button it flashes slowly, then flashes a little faster, then goes back to solid without booting
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


What I had: one pin on the CPU socket was busted. This could be the cause of these kinds of problems. Got my board replaced yesterday, but I can't deny that it sucked pretty bad. I have read about a bunch of people who had the problem, perhaps there is some production problem (maybe for a certain batch).

It could on the other hand also be something very different (busted memory, incompatible memory or whatever). I presume you do not hear any beeps (I didn't hear them either)?

edit: try putting memory only in the channel A slots, and see if your PC boots. If not, try channel B. If the memory only works in one channel, you might have an issue with your socket.


----------



## cmeabon

Check to make sure you have the RAM seated all the way also. (Sounds dumb I know) When I first put mine together I was getting the same issue. Took a close look and realized I did not have my RAM seated all the way. Had to apply a good amount of pressure to get them seated. Looked seated the first time hehe.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Part of me feels like it was just the software freaking out.


That part of you would be right..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clmehnry*
> 
> I just put together my s-tooth Z77 last night but it wont boot
> I'm using 2 sets of Samsung MV-3v4G3D/US DDR3 1600 (4x4GB)
> The mem led stays red, after holding down the memok button it flashes slowly, then flashes a little faster, then goes back to solid without booting
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


First try one stick only in Dimm slot A2


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipping*
> 
> Hi Everyone, I am new here. So hello to you all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I have a question I hope you can answer. I've now had my computer for about a week and everything seems to be working as it should. Except for one thing - the AI Suite which sometimes gives me some warnings like "+3.3V 0.000 V"
> So I started to monitor my system with CPUID and this is the result after I've played games.
> Now my question, are the numbers normal?
> Oh and my system is as follows:
> *Processor*: i7 3770
> *heatsink*: Hyper 212 evo
> *Motherboard*: Sabertooth z77 (Bios 1504)
> *RAM*: Corsair DDR3 8GB PC1866 CL9 Vengeance
> *PSU*: Corsair TX750W (taken from my old computer 3-4 years old)
> *Graphic card*: Asus GTX 680 DirectCU II TOP
> *Case*: antec 1200
> Everything in BIOS is standard has not changed anything.


Hey man, I have this same issue as well. I've noticed that it only happens when i have 2 or more system monitoring programs running at the sametime. Example: AI suite and temp....just a thought. For it seems its usually when two or programs read voltages.


----------



## RobertIH4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> its very simple and i have not had any issues through 3 flashes.. I use the bios flashback method
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2150#post_17930989


Thanks. So does that mean if I were to flash with the USB Flashback and then for some reason it didn't flash correctly, you can still reflash again if necessary (because you don't have to boot)? If so this sounds like a fairly safe way to flash bioses.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertIH4*
> 
> Thanks. So does that mean if I were to flash with the USB Flashback and then for some reason it didn't flash correctly, you can still reflash again if necessary (because you don't have to boot)? If so this sounds like a fairly safe way to flash bioses.


BIOS flashback would allow you to do this.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Example: AI suite


I have stayed away from that.


----------



## Grinch80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clmehnry*
> 
> I just put together my s-tooth Z77 last night but it wont boot
> I'm using 2 sets of Samsung MV-3v4G3D/US DDR3 1600 (4x4GB)
> The mem led stays red, after holding down the memok button it flashes slowly, then flashes a little faster, then goes back to solid without booting
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Me too. Had to RMA my first Z77 Sabertooth. B dimm slots were no go, the A slots were fine. Tried every combo of 2 sticks across 4 slots. Seems a few people have reported this across the net. Good news is my second attempt at the Sabertooth turned out fine, love the board so far.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Small question: my Corsair H60 radiator fan is (obviously) connected to the CPU fan header on the board. I connected my pump to the chassis fan 4 header. However, would the CPU optional fan header be better for the pump? According to the H60 manual any 3 pin header should be fine but I want to make sure I get optimal temps.


both supply 12v..If using cha fan 4 disable Q fan in bios for that header so you dont fluctuate voltage on temp.


----------



## darklord77

4.2ghz (1.2v) which is my goal (Gaming machine - balance), linx (AVX support) after 10 runs my max temps are 74, 81, 79, 78 (Weather Outside temperature 31.1°C) . I have prime95 (blend) running now and if after 2 hours is stable i'll try 1.175 volt. I love this mobo and CPU of course









Cooler: H100 with 2 Corsair sp120 quiet edition (1450RPM).


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> 4.2ghz (1.2v) which is my goal (Gaming machine - balance), linx (AVX support) after 10 runs my max temps are 74, 81, 79, 78 (Weather Outside temperature 31.1°C) . I have prime95 (blend) running now and if after 2 hours is stable i'll try 1.175 volt. I love this mobo and CPU of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooler: H100 with 2 Corsair sp120 quiet edition (1450RPM).


Max 81°C @ 4.2GHz having a H100? looks like too high


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Max 81°C @ 4.2GHz having a H100? looks like too high


I thought the same. Ambient might be a factor ..


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I thought the same. Ambient might be a factor ..


Maybe the case not getting enough fresh air intake.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Maybe the case not getting enough fresh air intake.


Also a factor. Personally I'm trying to stay close to 70c as possible when stressing the CPU.


----------



## Chillie

Try making sure the heatsink is making complete contact with the cpu, also double check to make sure the heatsinks setting is on high for cooling. When i stress at 4.2 with a i53570k my temps get no where near 81. Also how many fans do you have on the radiator? I use 4, it may not make a difference but istalling 4 to the radiator was the only way i could make mine fit inside my case.


----------



## kizwan

What is your ambient temp? darklord77 said _"Weather Outside temperature 31.1°C"_. Ambient in the house could be a couple degrees higher. However, he doesn't use stock fans might contribute to poor result.

The stock H100 fans:-

Fan speed: 1300 - 2600RPM
Fan airflow: 46 - 92 CFM
Fan dBA: 22 - 39 dBA
Fan static pressure: 1.6 - 7.7mm/H20
Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition:-

Airflow: 37.85 CFM
Static Pressure: 1.29 mm/H20
Sound Level: 23 dBA
Speed: 1450 RPM
The stock fans, even though louder, are way better than SP120.


----------



## Elenion

What does CPU LLC do? Do you want it high as possible?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> What does CPU LLC do? Do you want it high as possible?


using higher value tightens up the amount of voltage droop. Ultra high setting has helped me in larger multi.. less volt fluctuation

http://www.overclock.net/t/556097/cpu-llc#post_6911564 this whole thread is good to read


----------



## darklord77

Guys like *kizwan* said sp (quiet) edition can't compare with stock fans (1450 RPM vs 2600RPM). Of course they are silent. Room temperature was 32°C (Greek summer







)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> Guys like *kizwan* said sp (quiet) edition can't compare with stock fans (1450 RPM vs 2600RPM). Of course they are silent. Room temperature was 32°C (Greek summer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thats what i thought..high ambient..


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> Guys like *kizwan* said sp (quiet) edition can't compare with stock fans (1450 RPM vs 2600RPM). Of course they are silent. Room temperature was 32°C (Greek summer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I didn't argue which one is quieter but which ones deliver better performance. RPM doesn't matter but airflow & static pressure are. You'll get better result with stock fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Thats what i thought..high ambient..


My thoughts exactly.


----------



## darklord77

Guys post stable OC results so we can try the same bios settings.

*@kizwan*
I had them running and the noise was too much.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Stable 12hr run on 45 multi +.035 offset ultra high LLC mem oc to 2200 at 1.68v Temps are respectable.. multi of 46 test soon


----------



## darklord77

*@Hanoverfist*
Prime95 blend ?

I'm trying now 4.2ghz, 1.175v, LLC high. I want to achieve 4.2 with the lowest volt.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklord77*
> 
> *@kizwan*
> I had them running and the noise was too much.


Yes, they're a bit noisy. I don't mind because they deliver very good performance. It's up to you. The temps you got not too bad in that ambient.


----------



## darklord77

*@kizwan*

Only with LinX *AVX* I'm getting those temps that's why i don't worry. I don't thing any game will stress my CPU that much.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> @Hanoverfist
> Prime95 blend ?


Yep ,, blend ..I should have run it in custom and upped my memory usage to 80%..next time..


----------



## RobertIH4

Anyone else try entering offset voltage but having the bios constantly resetting it to Auto upon reboot? I'm just wondering if there is something I'm not doing in bios that is resulting in it resetting to auto or if it's just the bios being flaky.


----------



## darklord77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertIH4*
> 
> Anyone else try entering offset voltage but having the bios constantly resetting it to Auto upon reboot? I'm just wondering if there is something I'm not doing in bios that is resulting in it resetting to auto or if it's just the bios being flaky.


Do you hit enter after you set value?


----------



## RobertIH4

Lol, I haven't been actually. I thought you just had to enter the value and save. That's probably why. Thanks


----------



## darklord77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertIH4*
> 
> Lol, I haven't been actually. I thought you just had to enter the value and save. That's probably why. Thanks


Tell as your results when you finish your experiment


----------



## RobertIH4

Yep that worked lol. Thanks


----------



## Mikers

Hi guys.

I just bought my Sabertooth Z77.
It's the first time I put every piece together to build a computer, and at least for now it seems like I did well, it did not explode at least.
But even though I don't think I missed anything, I'm having trouble with the CPU Graphics card. I didn't but a good GPU since I was out of money for the month and with the CPU and Mobo I would still get HD Graphics, but when I install the drivers the computer stops working. It restarts, windows starts loading but then it resets and dies there, and stays like that unless I reset.

I'd really like to know what kind of trouble I'm having. I'll most likely borrow a 7850 from one of my friends to see if it's something wrong with the CPU Graphics, but in case it's just with all Graphics, I'll really need a solution.

Also, someone in another forum suggested me to update de BIOS. I did download the latest version from Asus' site, put it compressed and uncompressed in several pendrives, but it still doesn't accept it, it flashes for five seconds and then the light stays still, while the manual says it should turn off. Does the pendrive need to be totally empty except for the BIOS files? Do I need to change some config in the BIOS for it to accept the update? Is there a way to update the BIOS from Windows?

Anyway, thanks in advance!


----------



## Blatsz32

Mikers did you rename the Bios file as specified in the PDF file. If not try doing the BIOS update through the bios.

I'm sorry for the misunderstanding but are you having issues with the iGPU( the built in cpu graphics)? If so make sure you've updated to the latest drivers I believe it the HD4000 driver.


----------



## Mikers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Mikers did you rename the Bios file as specified in the PDF file. If not try doing the BIOS update through the bios.
> I'm sorry for the misunderstanding but are you having issues with the iGPU( the built in cpu graphics)? If so make sure you've updated to the latest drivers I believe it the HD4000 driver.


I finally could update the BIOS, I didn't read that you had to rename it, silly me, thought the PDF had the same instructions the manual does.

You did not misunderstood anything, that's what's exactly giving me trouble. I actually don't know if it's the iGPU or something, but once the drivers are installed, it just won't load anymore. On safe mode it runs perfectly, so there must be something wrong with the config I guess? I also read that 3750k had some errors with the PCIe ports, but this actually has nothing to do as I am using the IGPU, right? I'm getting really confused over this x_x.


----------



## Wardrop

Hi Guys,

I've got major problems after updating from BIOS 1015 to the latest 1504. The main problem is that the new BIOS won't boot with my TV Tuner, and my Rocketraid SATA card does not initiate (no blue post-screen, and no device present in UEFI or windows).

That wouldn't be such a problem though if I could just roll back to 1015, but when I tried using EZ Flash 2, it said "Image outdated" and won't let me image back the old BIOS. I've spent 8 hours on this already.

If anyone can solve either of these two problems (legacy non-uefi pci-e devices not posting, or BIOS rollback issue), then that would be much appreciated.


----------



## Friction

The first thing I would try is to remove the TV Tuner card and the SATA card and then try and boot.


----------



## Wardrop

I thought it was obvious I had already done that - how else would I know the TV Tuner was preventing it from booting?

I've managed to rollback the BIOS using the flashback USB port at the back, but it didn't change anything. I've narrowed down the problem though to two PCI-e slots which are no longer behaving as they use to. The weird thing is that before all of this, I remember the bottom-most PCI-e 16x slot didn't work. I shrugged it off at the time as I thought it must have been disabled in the BIOS (for bandwidth reasons), but now the the other two slots have issues, this bottom-most PCI-e slot is working. I've noticed that with one of the two PCI-e slots that are no longer working, one of them half-works. By that I mean the computer boots with the device, and it occasionally shows up in device manager, but normally is presents itself as the wrong device (like a corrupted device or something). If I plug the TV Tuner into this particular slot, Windows boots, but it pauses for half a second every second or two.

Another thing is that I use to be able to set the multipler of my 3770K processor above 35x, but now, the BIOS won't let me set it to anything about that (35). I'm completely at a loss. I may RMA this board. Before that though, I'm going to rip it out of the case and boot it up in case it's a grounding issue or something, as I did remove the motherboard from the case when I originally flashed the BIOS as I needed to get at the CMOS battery which was covered by the thermal armour (which I've since chucked away).

So the plot thickens...

(making these posts from my Mac - god I love having two computers going through a KVM)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wardrop*
> 
> I thought it was obvious I had already done that - how else would I know the TV Tuner was preventing it from booting?
> I've managed to rollback the BIOS using the flashback USB port at the back, but it didn't change anything. I've narrowed down the problem though to two PCI-e slots which are no longer behaving as they use to. The weird thing is that before all of this, I remember the bottom-most PCI-e 16x slot didn't work. I shrugged it off at the time as I thought it must have been disabled in the BIOS (for bandwidth reasons), but now the the other two slots have issues, this bottom-most PCI-e slot is working. I've noticed that with one of the two PCI-e slots that are no longer working, one of them half-works. By that I mean the computer boots with the device, and it occasionally shows up in device manager, but normally is presents itself as the wrong device (like a corrupted device or something). If I plug the TV Tuner into this particular slot, Windows boots, but it pauses for half a second every second or two.
> Another thing is that I use to be able to set the multipler of my 3770K processor above 35x, but now, the BIOS won't let me set it to anything about that (35). I'm completely at a loss. I may RMA
> this board. Before that though, I'm going to rip it out of the case and boot it up in case it's a grounding issue or something, as I did remove the motherboard from the case when I originally flashed the BIOS as I needed to get at the CMOS battery which was covered by the thermal armour (which I've since chucked away).
> So the plot thickens...
> (making these posts from my Mac - god I love having two computers going through a KVM)


I have been with this thread from the start and several users have experienced either dead pcie or malfunctioning slots. The resolve for this has been to rma. Also several have had the BIOS not holding settings issue. Sounds like you should rma. The search this thread feature will show some results for your exact issues.


----------



## Wardrop

I'll do that. Just a quick question in the meantime. If I take out my discrete graphics card, should the Sabertooth Z77 with 3770K boot using the onboard GPU (HD 4000)? I ask because I remove my graphics card, the system won't boot (the red VGA LED stays lit). Just trying to work out if that's another issue with the board or not.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wardrop*
> 
> I'll do that. Just a quick question in the meantime. If I take out my discrete graphics card, should the Sabertooth Z77 with 3770K boot using the onboard GPU (HD 4000)? I ask because I remove my graphics card, the system won't boot (the red VGA LED stays lit). Just trying to work out if that's another issue with the board or not.


If you have set igpu for your display in the BIOS and still won't boot. It's either your board or the onboard CPU graphics controller. One thing to try is reseating your CPU and check to see if you have bent socket pins. That will cause a host of issues. As others have already experienced.


----------



## Wardrop

I took the CMOS battery out and reset the CMOS with the jumper. Shouldn't that cause it to default to the iGPU if no discrete graphics card is present? It would seem unreasonable to expect one to have a discrete graphics card lying around so they can use it to go in and change the bios.


----------



## Wardrop

Just plugged in the discrete gpu and checked the BIOS. I can't even find a mention of the iGPU, let alone find any settings for it. Something's definitely up. Time to work out whether it's the board or the chip. Might have to steal the i7-2600 out of my machine at work to test with.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Small question: my Corsair H60 radiator fan is (obviously) connected to the CPU fan header on the board. I connected my pump to the chassis fan 4 header. However, would the CPU optional fan header be better for the pump? According to the H60 manual any 3 pin header should be fine but I want to make sure I get optimal temps.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wardrop*
> 
> I took the CMOS battery out and reset the CMOS with the jumper. Shouldn't that cause it to default to the iGPU if no discrete graphics card is present? It would seem unreasonable to expect one to have a discrete graphics card lying around so they can use it to go in and change the bios.


It is set to auto by default. And after clearing cmos yes it should auto detect . In a properly functional board.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Small question: my Corsair H60 radiator fan is (obviously) connected to the CPU fan header on the board. I connected my pump to the chassis fan 4 header. However, would the CPU optional fan header be better for the pump? According to the H60 manual any 3 pin header should be fine but I want to make sure I get optimal temps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*


Not sure you saw this or not
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2200#post_17955727


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Not sure you saw this or not
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2200#post_17955727


Woops, my apologies for not noticing







Thanks a lot


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Woops, my apologies for not noticing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot


NP


----------



## Blatsz32

Mikers it may be the resolution you are trying to use on your display. What res are you using 1920x1080 or is it higher?

Hanover, do you have any experience or data that Mikers could read on fixing his iGPU issue. He's getting picture but he says it cuts out every now and then.

I'm wondering if its a reso issue ...this would be the second issue about the onboard hdmi slot in a row....hmmmm


----------



## Wardrop

The TV tuner doesn't seem to work in any slot now. Nothing will work in PCIEX16_2 even though it was working this morning. Tried my soundcard in there, and while it lights up, Windows doesn't know about. It's detected in every other slot though. I'll try a processor from work and if that doesn't work, I'm sending this board back for RMA.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wardrop*
> 
> The TV tuner doesn't seem to work in any slot now. Nothing will work in PCIEX16_2 even though it was working this morning. Tried my soundcard in there, and while it lights up, Windows doesn't know about. It's detected in every other slot though. I'll try a processor from work and if that doesn't work, I'm sending this board back for RMA.


I agree..you should not be having this much trouble..when the board works they are awesome..Mine has been rock solid..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Mikers it may be the resolution you are trying to use on your display. What res are you using 1920x1080 or is it higher?
> Hanover, do you have any experience or data that Mikers could read on fixing his iGPU issue. He's getting picture but he says it cuts out every now and then.
> I'm wondering if its a reso issue ...this would be the second issue about the onboard hdmi slot in a row....hmmmm


I can research this problem today .. I am off work .. And i agree this igpu thing is popping up more and more..one of the three i keep seeing along with "Hey my ram doesnt work" and "Whats wrong with my PCIe slots"...


----------



## Blatsz32

k voltage and temps seem low, when I game temps are at 57-61c voltage is at 1.26-8. I've found that when I leave the offset + on auto i'm getting 1.44v...I'm going to try and leave it on auto and go for a 4.7 OC will post back later and tell you all how it goes.

I ran this current OC on the OCCT cpu test over night for about 6 hours, I gamed for about 1 hour seems to be stable. the only issue I had was the game seemed to have closed out on me twice. Not sure if that was a button i pressed or a server issue. I've also ran this setting at 102. Bclk and didn't get any probs


----------



## Hanoverfist

A quick round of testing the iGPU feature..and my personal findings..

1. In the OSD of my HP 2711x monitor set the source to auto switching to detect either DVI or HDMI. This is also default setting.

2. Powered down the machine

3. Cleared the CMOS

4. Leaving my Discrete card in PCIe slot 1 and removed the dvi cable from card and monitor.

5. Connected a known to work HDMI cable to monitor and HDMI out on back of board I/O.

6. Power on system and have NO Display signal to monitor..HMMMM

7. Power down again.

8. REMOVED Discrete Card from PCIe slot 1 and Cleared CMOS Again.

9. With HDMI still hooked to back of Motherboard I/O and Inputted to Monitor Turned on system again.

10. Now have Signal and am typing this currently on HDMI out of I/O and Input to Monitor.

So from this test you can see that iGPU will not work with a discrete card in slot 1 and only HDMI hooked up..

Once card removed from slot 1, I have signal now and bios 1504 has been set to default by clearing the cmos. This test is of course on a properly functioning board and does not pertain to others who have had no success with iGPU.. An Added note my monitor by default is auto detect source input..

For those of you with no discrete card and still not receiving a signal with HDMI, Look into your Monitor settings ,,somehow test your cable if you can, If you believe none of this is at fault and YOU believe you have properly installed your CPU and Your Socket is without any bent pins and your ram is Seated Properly and your PSU is working properly..Its time to start thinking of RMA.. this is just my


















All the reading i have done today about iGPU not working on Sabertooth z77 with Ivy bridge flavor cpu
and unable to set multi above 35 in bios and various ram issues ..have all resulted in RMA of board and or CPU.. TBH if i had these kind of issues right out of the box i would not hesitate to RMA immediately.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> . I've found that when I leave the offset + on auto i'm getting 1.44v...I'm going to try and leave it on auto and go for a 4.7 OC will post back later and tell you all how it goes.


I cant use auto at all in higher multi's.. the V sky rockets quickly to a unmanageable supply. i7 3770k .. I did alot of testing to find +.035 and multi 45 LLC to ultra high is stable and 12hr prime no problem..


----------



## Sypherian

This is truly an awesome motherboard runs perfectly especially after flashing from 0801 to 1504 for some reason it wouldn't remember my boot order after the computer had been turned off (restarting or resetting didn't do anything only shutdown made the boot order change on version 0801)

i do not regret buying this board and flashing was a breeze can only recommend this highly :-D


----------



## Blatsz32

to use a discreet Graphics card with the iGPU you'll have to enable the "multimonitor" function in the bios. This will only enble the discreet to run as a secondary not a main.

Mikers as far as your issue is concerned, I'm under the impression that an RMA or an exchange at your retailer ( if thats a viable option) is in need. If you've tried to change the resolution and it still does what you say its def a mobo issue.

Contact Asus if need be and see if there are some settings that perhaps we the community and yourself have missed as far as onboard vid......but I am in agreement with Hanover, if my board did what you described or anything other have desribed with mem/pci slots, you bet your bottom dollar that i'd be hoping in my car and driving back to Micro-Center. I had to do it 4 times with a Gigabyte 990fxa-UD7..not to mention the other 2 exchanges I made them do because I had them test it at the store..yes folks a total of 6 exchanges before I got a good board. I'll never by gigabyte again, not even a 512 USB stick

Hanover, the blessig of the 3770k is the lower voltage you are able to use to get a 4.5 overclock. I have to use 0.050 ( 1.25). I'm hoping to save up to get a 3770k and perhaps another sabertooth. heck I hae the one wiht the broken pins, contacted Asus and they said it would cost me 130 to fix.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> Hanover, the blessig of the 3770k is the lower voltage you are able to use to get a 4.5 overclock. I have to use 0.050 ( 1.25). I'm hoping to save up to get a 3770k and perhaps another sabertooth. heck I hae the one wiht the broken pins, contacted Asus and they said it would cost me 130 to fix.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> 
> 
> I ran this current OC on the OCCT cpu test over night for about 6 hours, I gamed for about 1 hour seems to be stable. the only issue I had was the game seemed to have closed out on me twice. Not sure if that was a button i pressed or a server issue. I've also ran this setting at 102. Bclk and didn't get any probs


The game closing out is a sign of an unstable overclock, BF3 is a good test if it is not stable your game will crash or freeze.
Quote:


> I passed 12 hours of prime and thought I was stable then BF3 freezes and crashes......


Im finaly stable at 4.5 can push it further with my water cooling but im happy with this result for now.


----------



## Macist

Hi, i'm new owner of z77 and 3770k + Noctua NH-D14 with GTX680 and Cosmos2 tower







)
Few weeks to get use to it and default temps, then -> start learning overclocking
see ya soon


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> The game closing out is a sign of an unstable overclock, BF3 is a good test if it is not stable your game will crash or freeze.
> Im finaly stable at 4.5 can push it further with my water cooling but im happy with this result for now.


Hey man looks pretty good!! whats you vcore look like when its under load at those settings?


----------



## majnu

*Asus Z77 Sabertooth Fails to Boot. Boot_Device_LED & Keyboard not resonding (Solved)*

I've been working on trying to get my PC to boot into Windows for the past 2 hours. Yesterday it was working finre and the last thing I did was watch Puss in Boots in 3D with my neice.

The symptions are:
Boot_Device_LED stays on Red; Keyboard does not respond when hitting "Del" to enter Bios. The system eventually boots into Windows by itself after 7 mins or so.

I've tried:
Clear CMOS.
Remove battery.
Reseat RAM and press Mem OK button.
Reseat GPUs.
Remove Crossfire bridge and attempt to boot up on one GPU.
Check SATA connections on SSD and attempt to boot on different cables and M/B connectors.
Attempt to boot on another SSD.
Tried another Keyboard.
Re-flash to an earlier BIOS using Asus Bios Flashback Utility after renaming bios file to Z77ST.CAP.
Tried calling the company I bought it from, only to find out they were closed as I was going to ask for technical help.

Solution:
So after hours of swearing in this humid weather and heat I thought I'd pull only connect critical peripherals. Last night I decided to charge my HTC via USB and connected it to the back of my PC (USB ports). After I removed that the computer finally booted up.

What a relief and also what a waste of time especially since my mobile connected via usb was to blame.

If you want the PC to boot then the mobile device has to be on, not in standby or switched off. I'll raise this with Asus so hopefully a bios update will fix this.


----------



## billythekid2012

hi guy i just in stalled the asus bios flash back.

but now if i down load a bios file frome asus it a cap file

now when i go to update to 1504 in the bios the ez flash does
not read the file on any ubs stick.

i even re did windows thinking it would get rid of the bios flash back

be for i install it all i had to do was put a bios fil on the a ubs stick go to the bios and update.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> *Asus Z77 Sabertooth Fails to Boot. Boot_Device_LED & Keyboard not resonding (Solved)*
> I've been working on trying to get my PC to boot into Windows for the past 2 hours. Yesterday it was working finre and the last thing I did was watch Puss in Boots in 3D with my neice.
> The symptions are:
> Boot_Device_LED stays on Red; Keyboard does not respond when hitting "Del" to enter Bios. The system eventually boots into Windows by itself after 7 mins or so.
> I've tried:
> Clear CMOS.
> Remove battery.
> Reseat RAM and press Mem OK button.
> Reseat GPUs.
> Remove Crossfire bridge and attempt to boot up on one GPU.
> Check SATA connections on SSD and attempt to boot on different cables and M/B connectors.
> Attempt to boot on another SSD.
> Tried another Keyboard.
> Re-flash to an earlier BIOS using Asus Bios Flashback Utility after renaming bios file to Z77ST.CAP.
> Tried calling the company I bought it from, only to find out they were closed as I was going to ask for technical help.
> Solution:
> So after hours of swearing in this humid weather and heat I thought I'd pull only connect critical peripherals. Last night I decided to charge my HTC via USB and connected it to the back of my PC (USB ports). After I removed that the computer finally booted up.
> What a relief and also what a waste of time especially since my mobile connected via usb was to blame.
> If you want the PC to boot then the mobile device has to be on, not in standby or switched off. I'll raise this with Asus so hopefully a bios update will fix this.


That happens to me all the time ..im so absent minded i always forget..loves to try and boot from my htc incredible..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> hi guy i just in stalled the asus bios flash back.
> but now if i down load a bios file frome asus it a cap file
> now when i go to update to 1504 in the bios the ez flash does
> not read the file on any ubs stick.
> i even re did windows thinking it would get rid of the bios flash back
> be for i install it all i had to do was put a bios fil on the a ubs stick go to the bios and update.


Rename the file per the pdf instruction?

Z77ST.CAP should rename file to this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2150#post_17930989


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> That happens to me all the time ..im so absent minded i always forget..loves to try and boot from my htc incredible..


Strange that it wanted to boot from a mobile









Anyway I'm glad that it was a simple solution - Damn Phone.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> hi guy i just in stalled the asus bios flash back.
> but now if i down load a bios file frome asus it a cap file
> now when i go to update to 1504 in the bios the ez flash does
> not read the file on any ubs stick.
> i even re did windows thinking it would get rid of the bios flash back
> be for i install it all i had to do was put a bios fil on the a ubs stick go to the bios and update.


Hi, did you rename the bios file to Z77ST.CAP and insert the USB into the correct USB port on the back? (It's a blue port with a white outline - it should be labelled too)

Insert the USB into it with the PC off, press and hold the Bios flashback button for 3 seconds and let go.

The button should now flash and when the bios is updated the light will turn off.

If the light flashes 5 times and then remains lit then there is something wrong with the file or it hasn't been correctly named


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Strange that it wanted to boot from a mobile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I'm glad that it was a simple solution - Damn Phone.


It's recognized as a drive. And my boot priority gets thrown out the window when I boot with any new drive plugged in.. I have a post it to remind me. Sigh.


----------



## Lesiunta

@Hanoverfist

Hey Boss!

Finished running IBT with successful results for 45x 100MHz OC, as well as Prime95 v27.7.
I'm using pretty much exact BIOS settings as you are running minus the RAM speed (1333MHz setting)
(I toyed around with higher multis but to no avail am I getting stable results.)

My question to you, what voltage settings/and or any other BIOS settings do you recommend me upping/changing in order for my
2400MHz Corsair Dominator Platinums (4x4GB) to run stable with the 4.5GHz CPU OC. Since my CPU won't push any further,
I thought I'd concentrate on focusing on making sure the RAM runs as fast it can/CPU IMC dependent of course.

I can boot into Windblows without a problem with XMP 1.3 profile @ 2400MHz with 1.65v, it's only when I run Prime 95 do I get errors after 10 mins and or IBT reports unstable
errors when running Maximum Stress on all the 16GBs of RAM.

You think cranking the VCCSA Voltage and or changing the DRAM Power Phase to Extreme will make em stable at 2400MHz or should I stop wasting my time and see if 2133MHz will do the job with a 4.5GHz CPU OC?

Much obliged!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Hey man looks pretty good!! whats you vcore look like when its under load at those settings?


Hey Chillie vcore still looks ok with some room to play,


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> @Hanoverfist
> Hey Boss!
> Finished running IBT with successful results for 45x 100MHz OC, as well as Prime95 v27.7.
> I'm using pretty much exact BIOS settings as you are running minus the RAM speed (1333MHz setting)
> (I toyed around with higher multis but to no avail am I getting stable results.)
> My question to you, what voltage settings/and or any other BIOS settings do you recommend me upping/changing in order for my
> 2400MHz Corsair Dominator Platinums (4x4GB) to run stable with the 4.5GHz CPU OC. Since my CPU won't push any further,
> I thought I'd concentrate on focusing on making sure the RAM runs as fast it can/CPU IMC dependent of course.
> I can boot into Windblows without a problem with XMP 1.3 profile @ 2400MHz with 1.65v, it's only when I run Prime 95 do I get errors after 10 mins and or IBT reports unstable
> errors when running Maximum Stress on all the 16GBs of RAM.
> You think cranking the VCCSA Voltage and or changing the DRAM Power Phase to Extreme will make em stable at 2400MHz or should I stop wasting my time and see if 2133MHz will do the job with a 4.5GHz CPU OC?
> Much obliged!


Sometimes even though memory is rated at a certain speed doesnt always mean it will run that..I know ...You think it should and so would I expect it to, but thats just the breaks..You can try 1.11v for VCCSA and 1.7v vdimm with your 2400mhz platinums... Your mem speeds also are dependent on how good YOUR cpu IMC is.. If you feel like it ..take out 2 sticks and run with 8gb and see if that is more stable..just for a test.. If you get to a point where throwing more volts at your mem doesnt help, dont waste your time,, I would associate that to how good your Cpu IMC is and you cant change that without buying another CPU.. Personally I dont own 2400 so i have no testing experience with it. My kit is 4 x 4 at 2133 and runs 2200 at 1.68 dram voltage.. Have not spent really any time going further than this yet. Good Luck










There is a fair bit of memory setting explained in his guide here.. http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


----------



## ForeverGamer

Hey OCN, i just claned my pc, sabertooth z77,3770k and 2X2GB Corsair dominator [email protected] MHz. When i encountered a problem with my RAM's when i tried to turn on, the system starts and the dram led lights, i used memok button but it didn't work(loop). i take them out and use a kingmax [email protected] stick but i got the same problem. Need help !!!!!!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForeverGamer*
> 
> Hey OCN, i just claned my pc, sabertooth z77,3770k and 2X2GB Corsair dominator [email protected] MHz. When i encountered a problem with my RAM's when i tried to turn on, the system starts and the dram led lights, i used memok button but it didn't work(loop). i take them out and use a kingmax [email protected] stick but i got the same problem. Need help !!!!!!


Try using just one stick and put it in dimm slot A2...see if it will post.. Also using two sticks ..should install to dimm A2 and B2..

if this doesnt work you should try reseating the cpu and INPECT the socket for any damaged or bent pins..

You may also need to update your bios with the latest revision.. download here http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

if you own a usb stick you can use the bios flashback method of updating your board.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2150#post_17930989


----------



## ForeverGamer

Yeah, i tried to put the protective cover on the cpu socket while cleanning the rest, i might bent some pins anyway thanks for that and i will send the motherboard to a specialist for repair, then i will sell it and buy a maximus v extreme


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForeverGamer*
> 
> i will send the motherboard to a specialist for repair, then i will sell it and buy a maximus v extreme


That's always an option..


----------



## crispiniscool

I love mine with a fiery burning passion. The BIOS update is super easy and looks really great....and so far it has stayed quite cool!


----------



## keesgelder

I've heard about the problem regarding RAM many times now... I suspect there is some kind of small manufacturing issue causing some pins involving ram to be more sensitive (can't be sure though). It's not hard to install a CPU, (almost) everybody can do it, so it's weird that so many people have problems with the socket pins.

I like my current Sabertooth very much though


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> I like my current Sabertooth very much though


Quote:


> I love mine with a fiery burning passion.










I Second that


----------



## rwchui

My Sabertooth Z77 Build:







Please comment!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwchui*
> 
> My Sabertooth Z77 Build:


Nice and Clean...Love IT










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hey Chillie vcore still looks ok with some room to play,


I'd say it looks damn good temps wise! what cooler are you using? also are these results with the same settings you posted earlier?


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Sometimes even though memory is rated at a certain speed doesnt always mean it will run that..I know ...You think it should and so would I expect it to, but thats just the breaks..You can try 1.11v for VCCSA and 1.7v vdimm with your 2400mhz platinums... Your mem speeds also are dependent on how good YOUR cpu IMC is.. If you feel like it ..take out 2 sticks and run with 8gb and see if that is more stable..just for a test.. If you get to a point where throwing more volts at your mem doesnt help, dont waste your time,, I would associate that to how good your Cpu IMC is and you cant change that without buying another CPU.. Personally I dont own 2400 so i have no testing experience with it. My kit is 4 x 4 at 2133 and runs 2200 at 1.68 dram voltage.. Have not spent really any time going further than this yet. Good Luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a fair bit of memory setting explained in his guide here.. http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


Greetings!

I took your suggestion of running my Corsair Platinum 2400MHz 4x4GB RAM (CMD16GX3M4A2400C9) @ 1.7vdimm and VCCSA @ 1.100v and so far success.
IBT passed with flying colours.



I ran Prime95 27.7 stressing the RAM for 40 minutes and so far so good as well. I remember last time around Prime would crash within first 10 minutes.

Thanks a bunch for your suggestions. I'll run Prime95 for 6 or so hours to further check the stability.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Thanks a bunch for your suggestions. I'll run Prime95 for 6 or so hours to further check the stability.


Excellent


----------



## Chillie

Here is my latest overclock I'm pretty stoked I got it stable enough to run for about an hour in intelburn test. I am gonna run it over night tonight in prime95 and see what I get. The temps are a bit high for my taste. Let me know what you think may need improvement or just what makes you nervous hahaha. Feel free to comment and ask questions.


Had to make a voltage bump. During the stress test it ran @ 1.32v where as before the bump it was running @ 1.29ish as you can see in the pic above


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Here is my latest overclock I'm pretty stoked I got it stable enough to run for about an hour in intelburn test. I am gonna run it over night tonight in prime95 and see what I get. The temps are a bit high for my taste. Let me know what you think may need improvement or just what makes you nervous hahaha. Feel free to comment and ask questions.
> 
> Had to make a voltage bump. During a a stress test it ran @ 1.32v


Your approaching 90C there.. alittle to hot for my taste.
Arma 2? Daze mod? In the screenie..looks like it.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> I'd say it looks damn good temps wise! what cooler are you using? also are these results with the same settings you posted earlier?


Hi Chillie,

Yeah same bios settings as posted earlier.

Im using a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 radiator ( Water Cooling ) overkill for just a cpu did have it on full loop at one stage but video card died.

Post us up your settings for 4.7 if you get it stable you want to have some serious cooling.


----------



## Elenion

Hanoverfist,

I used your setting for 4500 mhz, offset + 0.035 with CPU LLC on ultra high. I ran prime95 for several hours and it seemed stable but it was peaking to 93C with vcore showing as 1.280-1.288.

It's weird the system is going full 4500 mhz even at idle. I thought offset and speedstep lowers the clock when it's not under load?

It seems like my voltage stays above 1.280v no matter what number I adjust in + value.

I guess I can try minus offsetting but still don't get why would my pc would go full 4500 mhz at the start. (is it because of cpu llc?)

Should I change CPU Power duty control from t-probe to extreme or leave it?
What about CPU Power Phase Control?


----------



## Chillie

Okay guys heres the deal.....I ran the 4.7ghz overclock for about 12 hours. It ran perfect! no problems!!! however the moment I opened firefox it crashed haha. So im going to have to do a little adjusting but as of now ill stress test it with some battlefield 3.

@Hanoverfist yeah man thats dayz im in the process of making my own server if your looking for a place to play we also have teamspeak.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Chillie,
> Yeah same bios settings as posted earlier.
> Im using a XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 radiator ( Water Cooling ) overkill for just a cpu did have it on full loop at one stage but video card died.
> Post us up your settings for 4.7 if you get it stable you want to have some serious cooling.


Yeah I know need significantly better cooling power especially if every magically clock past 4.7. bust as of now my h100 has impressed me with the kind of temps it makes. My temps are just at the threshold of being to high, however Im banking off the fact the my temps will not get this high when gaming....but worst case scenario i'll clock down to 4.6.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Hanoverfist,
> I used your setting for 4500 mhz, offset + 0.035 with CPU LLC on ultra high. I ran prime95 for several hours and it seemed stable but it was peaking to 93C with vcore showing as 1.280-1.288.
> It's weird the system is going full 4500 mhz even at idle. I thought offset and speedstep lowers the clock when it's not under load?
> It seems like my voltage stays above 1.280v no matter what number I adjust in + value.
> I guess I can try minus offsetting but still don't get why would my pc would go full 4500 mhz at the start. (is it because of cpu llc?)
> Should I change CPU Power duty control from t-probe to extreme or leave it?
> What about CPU Power Phase Control?


It takes more than an average cooling solution to achieve higher stable multipliers.. What are you using? I have a custom water loop that is pretty beefy..


Also using a negative offset is tricky because remember your idle is affected as well and setting to low you wont post. Here is a current shot of my bios settings feel free to copy them.. But remember that not all CPU coolers are able to handle the heat generated by IVY at high multi.







You have to enable Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology to dynamically adjust voltage and core frequency.
Please post your bios pics if you can..It helps me and others to assist you.
You should leave CPU Power Duty at t-probe
you can leave power phase in Auto.

Cpu LLC does not affect the scaling of your CPU frequency like you asked , only the volts applied when doing so.


----------



## Elenion

I am on a wind cooler, NH-D14.
Does print screen on BIOS automatically creates a ss somewhere? or do you have to paste it later?
I have exact same setting as yours except I left my RAM to extreme profile, basically doing what it's suppose to do.

What are your suggestions? Should I keep persue 4500 mhz with minus offset now? What is the indication of instability? (won't boot?)


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> I am on a wind cooler, NH-D14.
> Does print screen on BIOS automatically creates a ss somewhere? or do you have to paste it later?
> I have exact same setting as yours except I left my RAM to extreme profile, basically doing what it's suppose to do.
> What are your suggestions? Should I keep persue 4500 mhz with minus offset now? What is the indication of instability? (won't boot?)


Im pretty sure it will save the ss only to a usb device such as a flash drive.


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Excellent


Dammit Jim!

Prime95 failed in about an hour or so but IBT was a pass.

I'm thinking I gotta go back to the Bios and keep adjust not only VCCSA to 1.11v (was 1.10v) but the VCCIO as well, not to mention CPU PLL Voltage. (going off the Z77 UEFI OC Tuning Guide PDF that you linked in your post).

I also wonder if it is indeed my 3770K's IMC is not as good as I thought it would be with 2400MHz, but in any event you think that tweaking "DRAM Read and Write Additional Swizzle" in the bios will help the Prime95 instability?

Or is this pretty much it, just drop down to 2133MHz and call it a day?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Dammit Jim!
> Prime95 failed in about an hour or so but IBT was a pass.
> I'm thinking I gotta go back to the Bios and keep adjust not only VCCSA to 1.11v (was 1.10v) but the VCCIO as well, not to mention CPU PLL Voltage. (going off the Z77 UEFI OC Tuning Guide PDF that you linked in your post).
> I also wonder if it is indeed my 3770K's IMC is not as good as I thought it would be with 2400MHz, but in any event you think that tweaking "DRAM Read and Write Additional Swizzle" in the bios will help the Prime95 instability?
> Or is this pretty much it, just drop down to 2133MHz and call it a day?


Yeah that swizzle thing i am unsure about TBH..and think of your real world usage of your computer.. do you experience any instability doing normal stuff. I know these programs stress things to the max but normally you wont even be close to it.. I normally dont even clock this high.. I save an OC profile in the tools menu in the bios for when I am feelin Frisky.. and normal operations for me are pretty stock settings.. I have to work off this thing.. I have given you some good Tools to start with now its time for your own journey to begin with the hardware you have.. should be fun for you..








as i mentioned before..sometimes throwing more volts at it will not be Fruitful


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> I am on a wind cooler, NH-D14.
> Does print screen on BIOS automatically creates a ss somewhere? or do you have to paste it later?
> I have exact same setting as yours except I left my RAM to extreme profile, basically doing what it's suppose to do.
> What are your suggestions? Should I keep persue 4500 mhz with minus offset now? What is the indication of instability? (won't boot?)


When in the bios..insert a usb stick and press f12.. that saves it to the stick in BMP format.. you will need a conversion program to convert that image to JPG to upload it.
Not booting is the extreme end of instability..other forms are say startup programs will crash when boot to windows..
Your cooler may need to be remounted and what thermal paste are you using and did you apply it right? The key to that is good contact and just the right amount of paste..
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=4

Its up to you how hard you want to push your hardware.. think about the life span of your stuff..


----------



## Snapky

Sorry when i start a new question.

I have a problem with the program ai suite. The sabertooth has the thermalradar and you can run it with ai suite... but if i want to start it there's a problem that it couldn't find the "AsusFanControlService.fanControlManager" i have already searched in google but every solution didn't work.

can somebody help me?

Thanks a lot.

Snapky


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> Sorry when i start a new question.
> I have a problem with the program ai suite. The sabertooth has the thermalradar and you can run it with ai suite... but if i want to start it there's a problem that it couldn't find the "AsusFanControlService.fanControlManager" i have already searched in google but every solution didn't work.
> can somebody help me?
> Thanks a lot.
> Snapky


Are you using the latest version? AI suite ll V 1.04.04 http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> Sorry when i start a new question.
> 
> I have a problem with the program ai suite. The sabertooth has the thermalradar and you can run it with ai suite... but if i want to start it there's a problem that it couldn't find the "AsusFanControlService.fanControlManager" i have already searched in google but every solution didn't work.
> 
> can somebody help me?
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> Snapky


Hey!

I had the exact same problem as you currently have. I solved it using the following method:

Using a registry editor (e.g. regedit), go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\AppID\AsusFanControlService.EXE. Here you should look op the AppID of the AsusFanControlService. For me it was: {BEBCB884-9C21-4117-B30B-CED03A72B50F}.

Now navigate to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Wow6432Node\CLSID\{14083C53-B8E7-48E4-9320-811F3478C4A4} (the FanControlManager class). In here, create a new string value (not a key!). Make the name "AppID", and modify it to give it as data value the AppID you just found (for me that was "{BEBCB884-9C21-4117-B30B-CED03A72B50F}" like I mentioned before).

Reboot and you should be good to go.

For me the problem was most likely caused by the live optimization of Tuneup Utilities. There's also a different solution to the problem but that required me to disable the live optimization which I did not want to (without doing so the problem kept reoccurring), and the above method works perfectly for me. Anyway, if the above method does not work let me know and I'll describe the alternative method for you.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> When in the bios..insert a usb stick and press f12.. that saves it to the stick in BMP format.. you will need a conversion program to convert that image to JPG to upload it.
> Not booting is the extreme end of instability..other forms are say startup programs will crash when boot to windows..
> Your cooler may need to be remounted and what thermal paste are you using and did you apply it right? The key to that is good contact and just the right amount of paste..
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=4
> Its up to you how hard you want to push your hardware.. think about the life span of your stuff..


I did the single drop in the center method, I guess I should reapply it when I get home from work today. What should I used to clean it with? q-tip? some even said use coffee filter. (of course using rubbing alcohol)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> I did the single drop in the center method, I guess I should reapply it when I get home from work today. What should I used to clean it with? q-tip? some even said use coffee filter. (of course using rubbing alcohol)


wipe off excess with paper towel and then use lightly soaked paper towel with the Alcohol..for the rest..clean the best you can and dry ..Paper towel is really all you need to do the job

here.. these guys are talking about it
http://www.overclock.net/t/335074/best-way-to-clean-thermal-paste-off-cpu


----------



## Snapky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Hey!
> I had the exact same problem as you currently have. I solved it using the following method:
> Using a registry editor (e.g. regedit), go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\AppID\AsusFanControlService.EXE. Here you should look op the AppID of the AsusFanControlService. For me it was: {BEBCB884-9C21-4117-B30B-CED03A72B50F}.
> Now navigate to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Wow6432Node\CLSID\{14083C53-B8E7-48E4-9320-811F3478C4A4} (the FanControlManager class). In here, create a new string value (not a key!). Make the name "AppID", and modify it to give it as data value the AppID you just found (for me that was "{BEBCB884-9C21-4117-B30B-CED03A72B50F}" like I mentioned before).
> Reboot and you should be good to go.
> For me the problem was most likely caused by the live optimization of Tuneup Utilities. There's also a different solution to the problem but that required me to disable the live optimization which I did not want to (without doing so the problem kept reoccurring), and the above method works perfectly for me. Anyway, if the above method does not work let me know and I'll describe the alternative method for you.
> Hope this helps!


Thanks, but it didn't work. I did step by step but the error comes after the restart again -.-


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> Thanks, but it didn't work. I did step by step but the error comes after the restart again -.-


Does it look exactly like this after you're done?:



And did you make sure to create a string value and not a key (and were the changes saved)?

Anyway, if it still doesn't help, try the following alternative method:

Uninstall the AI suite, reboot.
Then delete the 'C:\Program Files\ASUS' folder and/or 'C:\Program Files (x86)\Asus' folder. You may need to stop some processes before you can delete everything (I didn't even delete everything myself, just as much as I could). Reboot just to be sure.
Delete the Asus references from 'HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Wow6432Node\Asus' in the registry.
Delete the following Asus services from the registry: AsSysCtrlService, AsUpIO, AsusFanControlService and AsusFilter. They're located at 'HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services'. Reboot again.
Reinstall AI suite.
If needed turn off Automatic maintenance and live optimization in Tuneup Utilities.

For me it also solved the problem, but it reoccurred after a while (probably because of the live optimization of Tuneup Utilities). Then I found the method I presented to you before which works better for me because I don't have to disable anything in Tuneup Utilities. Do you use Tuneup Utilities yourself?

I'd recommend the first method if you can get it to work. Otherwise this second approach should do the trick as well.

Hope this finally solves it! It was a big annoyance for me as well.


----------



## Snapky

I have reintalled it and it looks same like yours xD



i haven't done anything ...

EDIT: i can't find Tuneup Utilities. should i install it?


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> I have reintalled it and it looks same like yours xD
> 
> 
> 
> i haven't done anything ...


So you didn't add the entry yourself? That's certainly interesting. In that case I would definitely recommend you try the alternative method I described in my previous post (make sure to follow all the steps because a general uninstall of the AI suite leaves some traces in the registry, and if you don't remove these traces you'll have the same problem again when re-installing).


----------



## Snapky

Okay thanks a lot. with the second solution it has finally started









Thank you again


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> Okay thanks a lot. with the second solution it has finally started
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again


Sure thing, I'm glad it worked out!


----------



## Elenion

Running prime95 with offset on minus 0.015 and core voltage shows as 1.240v. Max temp is like 85C now.

Is it normal to see system ramping up to 4500 mhz right away under idle with offset + speedstep etc?

I also reapplied thermal paste (NT-H1), it seemed to be lowered by maybe 1-2C. Didn't notice much difference before and after.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Running prime95 with offset on minus 0.015 and core voltage shows as 1.240v. Max temp is like 85C now.
> Is it normal to see system ramping up to 4500 mhz right away under idle with offset + speedstep etc?


If there is no load my idle is .94v and 1600mhz all cores. Are you using a xmp profile?


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If there is no load my idle is .94v and 1600mhz all cores. Are you using a xmp profile?


Yes, is that why?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Yes, is that why?


Nope.. I just tested Using xmp and both profiles 1 and 2 I still scale down voltage and core frequency to 1600mhz and .098v

what bios are you using? what monitoring program?


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Nope.. I just tested Using xmp and both profiles 1 and 2 I still scale down voltage and core frequency to 1600mhz and .098v
> what bios are you using? what monitoring program?


1504
RealTemp and CPU-Z


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> 1504
> RealTemp and CPU-Z


here is one of the better monitoring programs i have used and really like it..set up the widget with what ever you want to monitor. curious if its cpuz that not reading correctly
http://www.overclock.net/t/1293202/best-desktop-widget-type-monitor-software#post_17917277

this will allow you to just use one monitoring program


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> here is one of the better monitoring programs i have used and really like it..set up the widget with what ever you want to monitor. curious if its cpuz that not reading correctly
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1293202/best-desktop-widget-type-monitor-software#post_17917277
> this will allow you to just use one monitoring program


I did not see the widget in the site or the download.

Anyway, it seems like CPU-Z was not reading wrong.



It's not even 1% load and running at 4500 mhz


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> I did not see the widget in the site or the download.
> Anyway, it seems like CPU-Z was not reading wrong.
> 
> It's not even 1% load and running at 4500 mhz


In open hardware monitor you right click the sensor you want and choose show in gadget.
either try clearing your cmos or changing your AI overclock tuner to manual and Dram frequency to the value of your ram and make sure under advanced / cpu power management it looks like this


Also does it stay pegged when everything is set to defaults in the bois..clear the cmos and find out


----------



## Elenion

I just tried to optimized default setting on BIOS.
It went back to auto OC to target 3900 mhz (as it was advertised in the box of CPU) and now I can see it jumping between 1600 mhz and 3900 mhz.

Weird...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> I just tried to optimized default setting on BIOS.
> It went back to auto OC to target 3900 mhz (as it was advertised in the box of CPU) and now I can see it jumping between 1600 mhz and 3900 mhz.
> Weird...


Well that's good. Something was buggered


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Well that's good. Something was buggered


I'm confused








From the optimized default setting, I switched the settings back to previous one except the offsetting which was on plus auto... and now it swings from 1600 mhz but doesn't reach 4500 mhz. It stops at 4200 mhz and using 1.304v on its own.

NM, BIOS lowered the clock to x41 for some reason, changed back to 45 and offset to plus 0.015 and... it swings from 1600 to 4500 mhz now.

Not sure why it didnt' work before









Another thing that bothers me, I suddenly noticed, my optical drive in boot list in BIOS shows as name model number and bunch of space and just letter "c". I hope this is normal.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> changed back to 45 and offset to plus 0.015


If that gets a little unstable ..up that offset just a little.. maybe .025.. glad you figured it out..


----------



## Chillie

Here is my 4.7 overclock. I ran multiple test including an overnight one 10hrs and some change. I also did a whole day of bf3 no problems.


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If that gets a little unstable ..up that offset just a little.. maybe .025.. glad you figured it out..


Well running prime95 with 0.005 offset which turns into 1.256v. I can't seem to get any lower than 85~90 C during this stress test.
Is this too hot? Will it get this hot during gaming as well?

I'll just run it for 12 hrs to fully test stability now but I am not sure if I should keep this setting. (already using minimal plus offset)


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Well running prime95 with 0.005 offset which turns into 1.256v. I can't seem to get any lower than 85~90 C during this stress test.
> Is this too hot? Will it get this hot during gaming as well?
> I'll just run it for 12 hrs to fully test stability now but I am not sure if I should keep this setting. (already using minimal plus offset)


Your temps seem high for that cooler you have,, the thermal max i believe is 105C..during gaming you wont be as hot as you are with prime.
Those temps almost look like a stock cooler..


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Your temps seem high for that cooler you have,, the thermal max i believe is 105C..during gaming you wont be as hot as you are with prime.
> Those temps almost look like a stock cooler..


Alright good thing you reminded me that again, I did the thermal paste again. This time I used less, hoping its just enough to cover the center area. It seems like the average max is around 78-80 C now and peaks to 83 C occasionally during the test.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Alright good thing you reminded me that again, I did the thermal paste again. This time I used less, hoping its just enough to cover the center area. It seems like the average max is around 78-80 C now and peaks to 83 C occasionally during the test.


That is a considerable drop


----------



## Snapky

Hey guys,

i have a problem again. -.- I have updated my Bios with ai suite 2 and with the latest bios from the asus site. The update runs perfectly and it has finisched it. but after the restart the windows boot logo appears and after that i have a blackscreen!!! when i restart the system i can join to the save mode and there i have a screen but in the normal mode is everything black.

what should i do? i need help please

Snapky


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> Hey guys,
> i have a problem again. -.- I have updated my Bios with ai suite 2 and with the latest bios from the asus site. The update runs perfectly and it has finisched it. but after the restart the windows boot logo appears and after that i have a blackscreen!!! when i restart the system i can join to the save mode and there i have a screen but in the normal mode is everything black.
> what should i do? i need help please
> Snapky


Try clearing your cmos. Do you have a graphics card?


----------



## Snapky

whats a cmos? yeah i have a graphics card the asus gtx 670 dcii

How can i clear it without replce the batterie?

edit: when i install the update then the first time i can go into the normal mode of windows but after a restart it won't work anymore


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> whats a cmos? yeah i have a graphics card the asus gtx 670 dcii
> How can i clear it without replce the batterie?
> edit: when i install the update then the first time i can go into the normal mode of windows but after a restart it won't work anymore


Use the 3 pin jumper located next to the bottom led light..


you have to shut off power to the system and shut down the power to board.. then take the jumper and place it on pins 2 and 3 for 10 seconds..then place the jumper back to original position on pins 1 and 2.. power the system back up and try to boot.. This process resets your bios to default.. could help your situation,,


----------



## Snapky

okay i did what you said but it didn't work nothing changed in the bios


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapky*
> 
> okay i did what you said but it didn't work nothing changed in the bios


Consider flashing back to whatever revision bios that actually worked.. I strongly suggest using the bios flashback method instead of Ai suite ll.

Was there a reason you flashed Your bios or you just wanted the newest? Personally i wont install that buggy Ai suite.. several posts have described it as nothing but a Headache..

My Preferred Method of Flashing this Board http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2150#post_17930989

You might also try removing you graphics card ..cycle board power..reinstall the card and see what happens.


----------



## Snapky

boah bro your my savoir

i removed the gpu and started the pc. shut it down put the gpu back and startet.... Yeah my windows desktop appears







for testing restarted the pc and then again a desktop screen









thank a lot

i will never update the bios again









you're the best









Snapky


----------



## Elenion

Computer crashed during prime95 after few hours with 0.015 so I changed back to 0.025 like you suggested and it has been stable in blend test.

I think I'll run large FFT for 12 hours next as this other forum said I need to pass 12 hours to be considered "gold standard"
Even with improvement on temp now, it was still reading fairly hot, which I'm not too worried as I would never see that sort of temperature reading during real environment like gaming.

I guess my question is will it get even hotter than blend test? I am not comfortable even if it's just for testing.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> I guess my question is will it get even hotter than blend test? I am not comfortable even if it's just for testing.


Your about to find out..


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Computer crashed during prime95 after few hours with 0.015 so I changed back to 0.025 like you suggested and it has been stable in blend test.
> I think I'll run large FFT for 12 hours next as this other forum said I need to pass 12 hours to be considered "gold standard"
> Even with improvement on temp now, it was still reading fairly hot, which I'm not too worried as I would never see that sort of temperature reading during real environment like gaming.
> I guess my question is will it get even hotter than blend test? I am not comfortable even if it's just for testing.


Blend is the least heat generating unless it is running the large or small fft portions of the test. So you will see the temps lower and higher depending on the test. Large fft's is a bit hotter and gives consistent heat throughout the test. Samll fft's is just like large but is the hottest of all three. If it is just for gaming why not just turn off hyperthreading and save between 6 and 10c off your load temps?


----------



## asuman1179

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pedders*
> 
> I've seen it mentioned on this thread a couple of times but not noticed any solutions.
> I have a Sabertooth Z77 and it has been fine for 2 weeks, yesterday it started taking 1-2 minutes just to boot the UEFI.
> (With logo disabled) Power on, blank screen for 1-2 minutes then it all kicks into life.
> (With logo enabled) Power on, logo shows for 1-2 minutes then again it all kicks into life.
> I have the latest 1403 BIOS.
> Anyone with any ideas?
> Thanks
> Pedro


@Pedro or anyone else, Did you ever figure out this issue? I can't am not sure why it takes so long to get to the windows screen and I am not sure about the settings in the BIOS that I should change. I am going to try the logo disabled but was worried how to get back in but read another post that you just hit delete at start up with it disabled. Mine seems to flash the Logo three times before windows starts to load. Any ideas would be great.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> @Pedro or anyone else, Did you ever figure out this issue? I can't am not sure why it takes so long to get to the windows screen and I am not sure about the settings in the BIOS that I should change. I am going to try the logo disabled but was worried how to get back in but read another post that you just hit delete at start up with it disabled. Mine seems to flash the Logo three times before windows starts to load. Any ideas would be great.


Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Sxcerino
> 
> Hey guys
> Have any of you solved the slow POST/BOOT on the sabertooth z77s? It feels like an eternity booting from sabertooth compared to z77 Pro
> The new Bios fixed it, the 1059 bios had the wierd double Post screen, the newer bios flashes once then goes straight to OS. Its so quick I have to be mighty fast on the old "del" button to get to the bios screen


I have seen this post before but back a few months ago in an early bios revision.. I am not sure which Bios you are using? 1504 is very fast to boot for me.. sometimes to fast ..


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yeah that swizzle thing i am unsure about TBH..and think of your real world usage of your computer.. do you experience any instability doing normal stuff. I know these programs stress things to the max but normally you wont even be close to it.. I normally dont even clock this high.. I save an OC profile in the tools menu in the bios for when I am feelin Frisky.. and normal operations for me are pretty stock settings.. I have to work off this thing.. I have given you some good Tools to start with now its time for your own journey to begin with the hardware you have.. should be fun for you..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as i mentioned before..sometimes throwing more volts at it will not be Fruitful


Reporting back for duty!



I did it! Results speak for themselves. Got the Dominator Platinums to 2400MHz pass OCCT, Prime95 and IBT. Did a run of BF3 for about an hour or so and we are golden.



Here are my BIOS settings to achieve high frequency memory stability.


----------



## asuman1179

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have seen this post before but back a few months ago in an early bios revision.. I am not sure which Bios you are using? 1504 is very fast to boot for me.. sometimes to fast ..


I think you are right! For some reason I thought I was on the latest when I booted up but will need to double check. Doing other updates right now but looks like I have 1015 if CPU-Z is accurate in telling that information.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> I have 1015 if CPU-Z is accurate in telling that information.


Its accurate


----------



## Xander001

So, I ended up getting the wrong memory for my system (I needed to have an i7 cpu, rather than i5).

This is the memory I got:

http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=516&c1=&c2=

The cpu I got is the i5-3570K.

Before I took the memory out of its case, I called up GSkill and asked if it would work with the Sabertooth / i5 combo I have, and the tech said nope, not at 2400. He said I could manually downclock the memory to 2133 / 1600 and it would work, but I am a total newb when it comes to manually setting such timings / voltage. I was hoping to just enable XMP and be done with it.

I have no plans to over-clock the system at present, so would anyone here happen to know the correct settings I could use in the BIOS to bring down this memory to a setting that will work with my cpu? Would downclocking be stable, or should I just get new memory?

Also, I spoke with Newegg and got an RMA for the memory, no hassle at all. So I can send it back, get a refund, and then buy the proper memory. It would just take a couple weeks for it all to worked out, while at the moment a half-built system is just sitting in my closet.


----------



## johnvosh

Finally got one of these awesome boards. got mine for $140!!! This is the board I'm using for my build which will be based on the i7 3770K


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xander001*
> 
> So, I ended up getting the wrong memory for my system (I needed to have an i7 cpu, rather than i5).
> This is the memory I got:
> http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=516&c1=&c2=
> The cpu I got is the i5-3570K.
> Before I took the memory out of its case, I called up GSkill and asked if it would work with the Sabertooth / i5 combo I have, and the tech said nope, not at 2400. He said I could manually downclock the memory to 2133 / 1600 and it would work, but I am a total newb when it comes to manually setting such timings / voltage. I was hoping to just enable XMP and be done with it.
> I have no plans to over-clock the system at present, so would anyone here happen to know the correct settings I could use in the BIOS to bring down this memory to a setting that will work with my cpu? Would downclocking be stable, or should I just get new memory?
> Also, I spoke with Newegg and got an RMA for the memory, no hassle at all. So I can send it back, get a refund, and then buy the proper memory. It would just take a couple weeks for it all to worked out, while at the moment a half-built system is just sitting in my closet.


If you were keeping that memory you would make your Memory Frequency change as shown in this pic .. That setting is totally adjustable to run at whatever you want.. Man i would at least try it.. but thats me


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnvosh*
> 
> Finally got one of these awesome boards. got mine for $140!!!


Can you link that 140.00 price?


----------



## Elenion

Currently running large FFT for 4 hrs+ with 72-81 C, I have hyper threading disabled right now as I prob won't do much of graphic design and video work on this machine (other wise it'll probably peak close to 90 C I bet) Does this temperature look okay for this test?

Anyway, big thanks to Hanoverfist for teaching me this far









What should I do now to OC the RAM?


----------



## Xander001

Thanks for the quick reply!

When you're in that screen, does the voltage change along with the memory frequency, or would I have to change it (in case I lowered it to 1600)?

What I find odd, is that on the product page for that memory from GSkill, it says in bold red letters that this specific memory will work best with the i5 3570k. I am guessing they think it is totally acceptable to downclock this ram to work with the i5?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xander001*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply!
> When you're in that screen, does the voltage change along with the memory frequency, or would I have to change it (in case I lowered it to 1600)?
> What I find odd, is that on the product page for that memory from GSkill, it says in bold red letters that this specific memory will work best with the i5 3570k. I am guessing they think it is totally acceptable to downclock this ram to work with the i5?


When the board reads the mem module it will see the default voltage and set it automatically. If you want to try it set you frequency to 2400 and note the voltage. If the board won't post ..then start slowly raising the volts ..It's up to you how much you want to play with it to get stable. Another poster has recently got.his 2400 kit stable ..he just posted recently about it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2330#post_17999483
You don't need to lower your volts.


----------



## johnvosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Can you link that 140.00 price?


Nope sorry, was a one time thing. I got my from Memoryexpress in Edmonton. It was originally listed for $249.99, but this one was an RMA Recertified listed for $199.99, then they had a 30% off clearance item sale. That is why I got it so cheap. I was lucky I got it to. i showed up 10 minutes before hey opened and they had 2 calls on it before they had opened.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnvosh*
> 
> Nope sorry, was a one time thing. I got my from Memoryexpress in Edmonton. It was originally listed for $249.99, but this one was an RMA Recertified listed for $199.99, then they had a 30% off clearance item sale. That is why I got it so cheap. I was lucky I got it to. i showed up 10 minutes before hey opened and they had 2 calls on it before they had opened.


Ah ..I see. Great deal though..


----------



## Elenion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Currently running large FFT for 4 hrs+ with 72-81 C, I have hyper threading disabled right now as I prob won't do much of graphic design and video work on this machine (other wise it'll probably peak close to 90 C I bet) Does this temperature look okay for this test?
> Anyway, big thanks to Hanoverfist for teaching me this far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do now to OC the RAM?


16gb (4x4) Ripjaw X DDR3 1600 using XMP profile currently for 9-9-9-24 1.5v.


----------



## asuman1179

Something has gone wrong with my bios update last night. I had the system up and running with bios 1015 and try to upgrade to the newest 1504. I am using the flashback and usb on the back of the motherboard to do this. It seems liked it worked because I got a new logo on boot up but the delete key did not work then it came to screen that said to click F1 but that also did not work. The boot led light was on on the motherboard. So was thinking it was something wrong with the newest bios that I tried to do the flashback again with the one below 1504 which I think is 1403. After that flash it does not power past the cpu led light now. I am going to post a clip that shows what it was doing where it powers up red light turns off powers up then turns off. This whole system was working just fine on 1015 besides it was taking such a longtime to boot past the bios screens.

Just does not seem right and not sure what to do next. I have cleared the CMOS and removed all USB and extra drives on the motherboard. Did I mess this up by doing the flashback method to go back to a lower version? Any ideas would be great since I am at work and have no computer at home working right now until wife comes home tonight. 



Thanks for any ideas!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> Something has gone wrong with my bios update last night. I had the system up and running with bios 1015 and try to upgrade to the newest 1504. I am using the flashback and usb on the back of the motherboard to do this. It seems liked it worked because I got a new logo on boot up but the delete key did not work then it came to screen that said to click F1 but that also did not work. The boot led light was on on the motherboard. So was thinking it was something wrong with the newest bios that I tried to do the flashback again with the one below 1504 which I think is 1403. After that flash it does not power past the cpu led light now. I am going to post a clip that shows what it was doing where it powers up red light turns off powers up then turns off. This whole system was working just fine on 1015 besides it was taking such a longtime to boot past the bios screens.
> Just does not seem right and not sure what to do next. I have cleared the CMOS and removed all USB and extra drives on the motherboard. Did I mess this up by doing the flashback method to go back to a lower version? Any ideas would be great since I am at work and have no computer at home working right now until wife comes home tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any ideas!


It goes without saying that something has definitely gone wrong for you. At this point when clearing the cmos has no affect with just using the jumper it is suggested that you also remove the battery and repeat the process.. this is a bummer because you have to remove the armor. Page 2-14 of the manual.. I cant be positive on the affects of flashing back to a previous version on this board.. but have done it successfully on my other asus board just fine..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> Something has gone wrong with my bios update last night.


Here is some more reading on your issue http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&s=39&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ&os=&no=1722


----------



## asuman1179

Thanks, I am going to try to remove the battery next then. Just strange that it was working not getting this CPU led error. Something that I thought was going to be quick in simple never ends up that way!


----------



## id_mew

After flashing the latest bios 1504, I can't seem to get my X.M.P settings to stick.
I was successfully running on 4100 mhz for my CPU and 1600 mhz for my Ram using X.M.P but now my ram is running at 1300mhz and my CPU at 3700mhz.
Is anybody else experiencing this after updating to the latest Bios?
Thanks.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> After flashing the latest bios 1504, I can't seem to get my X.M.P settings to stick.
> I was successfully running on 4100 mhz for my CPU and 1600 mhz for my Ram using X.M.P but now my ram is running at 1300mhz and my CPU at 3700mhz.
> Is anybody else experiencing this after updating to the latest Bios?
> Thanks.


I know this is not an answer as to why but the solution is change xmp to manual and set your mem frequency and dram voltage to run as you want. Also set your cpu multi back to 41 if that is what you wish to run at.. example of multi setting in pic


example of manual setting


----------



## id_mew

Thanks Hanoverfist for the pics!
did you have to change the Cpu voltage to get it to 4.5? or did you just change the ratio?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> Thanks Hanoverfist for the pics!
> did you have to change the Cpu voltage to get it to 4.5? or did you just change the ratio?


Yeah ,,I spent a couple of days trying to find the right cpu offset to use at 45 to be stable + .035 for me equals twelve hour prime stable


----------



## Elenion

Errr, nothing big but this is annoying. I can't seem to get my NH-D14 fans adjust according to temperature. It's always spinning at 1200+ RPM (max), nothing I do in BIOS fan setting or Thermal Radar affects that.

Not sure if using a Y splitter to connect two fans from the NH-D14 causes this.


----------



## MotherFo

Slightly blurry and during my build. I really need to get a modular psu.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elenion*
> 
> Errr, nothing big but this is annoying. I can't seem to get my NH-D14 fans adjust according to temperature. It's always spinning at 1200+ RPM (max), nothing I do in BIOS fan setting or Thermal Radar affects that.
> Not sure if using a Y splitter to connect two fans from the NH-D14 causes this.


Using two fans that each have rpm sensor connected thru a single Y splitter will often confuse the inputs rpm sensing ability. I dont use the feature of the board ..but i have 3 fans into one input on my fancontroller and the display goes crazy ..not knowing what to output to the display until i cut the rpm inputs of two of the fans.

my guess is the board doesnt have a clue as to what the rpm is..try disconnecting one fan for a test on rpm ramping..


----------



## Xander001

Ok, so I got everything running. The motherboard accepted the ram at 1600 upong first boot, so I decided to enabled XMP #1. This has been working so far, with the memory set to 2401. No issues during Windows install, nor any issues so far.

Yet, there are some items in my device manager which don't seem to have drivers, even after installing every driver obtained from ASUS:

PCI Simple Communications Controller
Universal Serial Bus (USB) Controller
Unknown Device

The unknown device used to be labled as another USB controller, but when I "installed" the Intel USB drivers, it changed to unknown device.

I installed the drivers for my hard drives during installation, and I've installed the chipset drivers, audio drivers and network drivers. So I have no idea what to install for those items listed above.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xander001*
> 
> Ok, so I got everything running. The motherboard accepted the ram at 1600 upong first boot, so I decided to enabled XMP #1. This has been working so far, with the memory set to 2401. No issues during Windows install, nor any issues so far.
> Yet, there are some items in my device manager which don't seem to have drivers, even after installing every driver obtained from ASUS:
> PCI Simple Communications Controller
> Universal Serial Bus (USB) Controller
> Unknown Device
> The unknown device used to be labled as another USB controller, but when I "installed" the Intel USB drivers, it changed to unknown device.
> I installed the drivers for my hard drives during installation, and I've installed the chipset drivers, audio drivers and network drivers. So I have no idea what to install for those items listed above.


Most likely the ASMedia controllers.

If not that, the intel MEI drivers.


----------



## Xander001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Most likely the ASMedia controllers.
> If not that, the intel MEI drivers.


Yep, those were the drivers I needed, just found them on the CD. =)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xander001*
> 
> Yep, those were the drivers I needed, just found them on the CD. =)


Rep it up







Should also be here under usb and Sata: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download


----------



## hotelmrrsn

Hi all,
First time poster here and could really use some help. If i'm in the wrong spot just let me know. Got all my pieces and built my system today (Sabertooth Z77 mb, i7-2600k cpu, corsair vengeance 16gb DDR3 (4x 4GB), msi GTX661ti). First boot triggered a Dram LED. After some troubleshooting it appears that putting any sticks in B1 or B2 causes the error. No problems booting with a single stick in A1 or a stick in A1 and A2. Put a single stick in B1 or B2 and Dram LED appears once again. I'm on the most current version of bios (1504). Am I looking at an RMA or am I overlooking something silly here? Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotelmrrsn*
> 
> Hi all,
> First time poster here and could really use some help. If i'm in the wrong spot just let me know. Got all my pieces and built my system today (Sabertooth Z77 mb, i7-2600k cpu, corsair vengeance 16gb DDR3 (4x 4GB), msi GTX661ti). First boot triggered a Dram LED. After some troubleshooting it appears that putting any sticks in B1 or B2 causes the error. No problems booting with a single stick in A1 or a stick in A1 and A2. Put a single stick in B1 or B2 and Dram LED appears once again. I'm on the most current version of bios (1504). Am I looking at an RMA or am I overlooking something silly here? Your help is greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> Mike


Mike your not alone .. i have seen this problem now quite a few times...take the cpu back off and inspect the socket pins to see if any are bent..if not remount the cpu and try with two sticks in A2 and B2... What is the speed rating on that memory..pc1600? If this does not work..dont waist your time ..RMA


----------



## hotelmrrsn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Mike your not alone .. i have seen this problem now quite a few times...take the cpu back off and inspect the socket pins to see if any are bent..if not remount the cpu and try with two sticks in A2 and B2... What is the speed rating on that memory..pc1600? If this does not work..dont waist your time ..RMA


Speed rating is 1600. One other thing of note, i'm running an H100 liquid cooler and no matter where i plug the fan in i get a cpu fan error at the bios screen. RMA is NOT what i wanted to hear...but such is life. I really appreciate your quick response.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotelmrrsn*
> 
> Speed rating is 1600. One other thing of note, i'm running an H100 liquid cooler and no matter where i plug the fan in i get a cpu fan error at the bios screen. RMA is NOT what i wanted to hear...but such is life. I really appreciate your quick response.


page 3-33 in the manual set cpu fan speed to ignore
Disable cpu q fan
make sure your ram is firmly seated..


----------



## Hanoverfist

You may also want to test each stick individually in dimm A2 so at least you know its not the memory.


----------



## hotelmrrsn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You may also want to test each stick individually in dimm A2 so at least you know its not the memory.


Each stick individually worked in A2 no problem. Double and triple checked to make sure the memory was seated properly in the B slots with the same results. Looks like i'm sending it back for a refund and headed to a local store to pick up a replacement tomorrow. :-(


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys, just finished getting my new rebuild up and running. Not the pretty pics ever, but I'm loving this board so far, easily the nicest looking board I've ever owned lol:



Need to find my good camera to get not ****ty pics lol.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> page 3-33 in the manual set cpu fan speed to ignore
> Disable cpu q fan
> make sure your ram is firmly seated..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You may also want to test each stick individually in dimm A2 so at least you know its not the memory.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hotelmrrsn*
> 
> Each stick individually worked in A2 no problem. Double and triple checked to make sure the memory was seated properly in the B slots with the same results. Looks like i'm sending it back for a refund and headed to a local store to pick up a replacement tomorrow. :-(


Sorry to hear that..Just Remember these boards are Awesome when they Actually Work..









Good Luck on the Next One


----------



## asuman1179

I also have H100 and was able to get the CPU fan to work by plugging in the three pin to the four pin CPU_Fan plug with out any issues.


----------



## trancefreak64

Anyone successfully connect a USB 3.0 internal front header card reader to this board? I bought a Sigg from newegg and the USB port works just not the reader. I tested it in my other PC with a msi p67a-gd65 and it worked. All options for USB support in bios1504 are on. I have all the proper mass storage drivers from ASUS an I tested the ports with the ASUS diagnostic utility. All good with a rear usb 3.0 header and to usb 3.0 flash drives as well. I get the Vid numbers showing up from the Diagnostic utility from the internal USB ports when they are connected and it seems good. Not sure with heck is going on. I pulled the motherboard and checked the pins and they are all straight as an arrow. Only thing I did notice is the Sigg card reader doesn't look like it goes into the green header far enough but TBH why would the extra USB 3.0 port work.

Anyways I dont have another USB card reader to test so maybe I will just get a USB 2.0. Any thoughts?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> Anyone successfully connect a USB 3.0 internal front header card reader to this board? I bought a Sigg from newegg and the USB port works just not the reader. I tested it in my other PC with a msi p67a-gd65 and it worked. All options for USB support in bios1504 are on. I have all the proper mass storage drivers from ASUS an I tested the ports with the ASUS diagnostic utility. All good with a rear usb 3.0 header and to usb 3.0 flash drives as well. I get the Vid numbers showing up from the Diagnostic utility from the internal USB ports when they are connected and it seems good. Not sure with heck is going on. I pulled the motherboard and checked the pins and they are all straight as an arrow. Only thing I did notice is the Sigg card reader doesn't look like it goes into the green header far enough but TBH why would the extra USB 3.0 port work.
> Anyways I dont have another USB card reader to test so maybe I will just get a USB 2.0. Any thoughts?


I have a front usb header conected.

My corsair Flash Voyager USB 3.0 will not work with it. It will however work in the back panel usb 3 ports.

Usb 2.0 works fine, Not sure if it just this paticular brand it does not like.


----------



## Zantrill

All 3.0 ports work fine here.


----------



## ExaAlloc

Hey all,

I am having issues with the two back USB 3.0 ports on my sabertooth. The ones right below and to the right of the USB flashback button. I have a usb 3 drive directly connected to one of these, and all of a sudden it just stopped working with the drive no longer recognizing in Windows. I have tried re-installing drivers, installing Windows on a different partition, etc to no avail. I recently updated my BIOS to the latest version. These ports have been working fine for 3 weeks. They still provide power, just no device support.

Anyone else with this problem and a solution? All other USB 3 ports work fine.

I have contacted ASUS support and that was no help, so I have an advanced RMA scheduled, but if I can fix this it would be better than doing that.

Thanks!


----------



## skiline

im having a similar problem front usb3 of my antec 902 v3 wont work i have an ADATA AS102-32G-RGY Pro 32GB USB3.0 100MB/S Read 50MB/S Write Flash Memory Drive and it spots working or just freeze my pc sometimes it just disconnects by itself

I connected this using a 20+1 pin adapter usb3 to the motherboard usb3_34 connector next to the sata3 connectors ant then i connected the cable that came with my case to the adapter

the usb3 ports on the motherboard work great they don't freeze i hae the lates drivers for the intel and asmedia put always the same problem

this is the adapter


----------



## Costfree

sorry GF hacks. -________________________-


----------



## Zantrill




----------



## Costfree

I have no clue what I am doing wrong but my OC isn't posting. I changed the values and wanted to try to get 4.2 but it still says 3.4?!? Any clue on whats going on?!

Edit: So it will only go to 4.2 under load? Is that just how it is or is there a way to have it running 4.2 all the time?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> I have no clue what I am doing wrong but my OC isn't posting. I changed the values and wanted to try to get 4.2 but it still says 3.4?!? Any clue on whats going on?!
> Edit: So it will only go to 4.2 under load? Is that just how it is or is there a way to have it running 4.2 all the time?


. Can you list what you have changed. Or take some screen shots of the BIOS .. What revision of the BIOS are you using? What software is telling you 3.4? After you change the multiplier does the setting stay in the BIOS after a reboot?.. Intel speed step scales the voltage and core frequency based on work load of the CPU.


----------



## Costfree

I used the settings they had here for starters.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_20

Only difference is I have my offset set to -

I think i figured it out its just coming from the e8400 and UD3P bios it just threw me off (no wonder I took so long to attempt to OC on this new setup).

Well under full load my temps were 68C, 75C, 71C, 69C max core voltage according to CPU-Z was 1.312 - 1.320 @4.2ghz. This was under about 5 hours of prime testing. Didn't fail or anything I just stopped the testing. Going to try to get the volts lower, is it better to have the vcore in Offset or Manual?


----------



## Rakin

All of my USB 3.0 ports work fine


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> I used the settings they had here for starters.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_20
> Only difference is I have my offset set to -
> I think i figured it out its just coming from the e8400 and UD3P bios it just threw me off (no wonder I took so long to attempt to OC on this new setup).
> Well under full load my temps were 68C, 75C, 71C, 69C max core voltage according to CPU-Z was 1.312 - 1.320 @4.2ghz. This was under about 5 hours of prime testing. Didn't fail or anything I just stopped the testing. Going to try to get the volts lower, is it better to have the vcore in Offset or Manual?


I love the offset feature .. once you get used to it .. took me a couple days.. I like the scaling affect.. Careful with negative offset .. if you get to low your idle volts may give some issue and way too low will result in not being able to boot.. I prefer a + offset..


----------



## Costfree

what would be the absolutely lowest vcore before it will not boot? Mine goes to 1.088V in idle.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> what would be the absolutely lowest vcore before it will not boot? Mine goes to 1.088V in idle.


Below .9v I start having issue.. that is my 3770k


----------



## Costfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Below .9v I start having issue.. that is my 3770k


I see, thats good to know. I may be good with these settings I have then 1.088 - 1.312v. Time to take a stab at OCing my 680.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costfree*
> 
> I see, thats good to know. I may be good with these settings I have then 1.088 - 1.312v. Time to take a stab at OCing my 680.


Good Luck


----------



## PhantomTaco

Hey guys, having a bit of a niggle with overclocking my 3570k with the Sabertooth BIOS settings. I've tried using this post as a guideline to get it to 4.5ghz:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Overclocking is easy on this board,
> Currently stable on the newest bios with 4.5 on the 3570k, Here are some pics of the bios menu.
> All you have to do is plug in a usb, go into the bios and F12 will screenshot your bios right onto the usb stick ( Brilliant )
> Go into your bios and advanced mode,






I basically keyed in the same values as listed (they seemed reasonable from the reading I've done), but I'm having trouble with setting my CPU Voltage and offset. It doesn't let me key in a new baseline number for CPU voltage at all, and whenever I try to put the offset for the + side for instance and then switch to the - and go back, it's set back to auto with some ridiculous high end of .653 or .635v. I'm certain I'm missing something dumb, can someone help me figure out what that is?

EDIT: As a result my CPU Z reads that my load voltage is 1.328v, this is what's bothering me in the end, I feel as though it should be set lower?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey guys, having a bit of a niggle with overclocking my 3570k with the Sabertooth BIOS settings. I've tried using this post as a guideline to get it to 4.5ghz:
> I basically keyed in the same values as listed (they seemed reasonable from the reading I've done), but I'm having trouble with setting my CPU Voltage and offset. It doesn't let me key in a new baseline number for CPU voltage at all, and whenever I try to put the offset for the + side for instance and then switch to the - and go back, it's set back to auto with some ridiculous high end of .653 or .635v. I'm certain I'm missing something dumb, can someone help me figure out what that is?
> EDIT: As a result my CPU Z reads that my load voltage is 1.328v, this is what's bothering me in the end, I feel as though it should be set lower?


Make sure to set your Multiplier in this section of the Bios


Instead of using XMP set that to Manual


Not all 3570k are going to use the same voltage or get the same overclocks ..so using his bios is ok for a reference but .....these cpu's will be close but how how much??

Now set the dram frequency to what ever ram is rated for speed wise Cpu Voltage to Offset...set to +...CPU offset voltage to .005 using the + or - key on your keyboard ..Dram volts to Auto XMP might be screwing you up.. im not sure..


This pic is my bios on a 3770k at 45 with pc2133 mem running 2200mhz

Now f10 to save and see what happens









That offset for me gives an Idle of .960v and loaded of 1.28v different cpu but you get the picture


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to set your Multiplier in this section of the Bios
> 
> Instead of using XMP set that to Manual
> 
> Not all 3570k are going to use the same voltage or get the same overclocks ..so using his bios is ok for a reference but .....these cpu's will be close but how how much??
> Now set the dram frequency to what ever ram is rated for speed wise Cpu Voltage to Offset...set to +...CPU offset voltage to .005 using the + or - key on your keyboard ..Dram volts to Auto XMP might be screwing you up.. im not sure..
> 
> This pic is my bios on a 3770k at 45 with pc2133 mem running 2200mhz
> Now f10 to save and see what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That offset for me gives an Idle of .960v and loaded of 1.28v different cpu but you get the picture


Hey thanks for the info! I'll try that out in a bit and see if it worked, still working on issues with XBMC as well. For now I've put it back to stock, will update when I get the chance.

EDIT
I took your advice now my system is running at 4.5ghz 1.152v vcore load which is immensely better haha. Temps still under 62c 45 min into Prime95, gonna leave it overnight and hope for it to be all good. Thanks dude! Rep


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Hey thanks for the info! I'll try that out in a bit and see if it worked, still working on issues with XBMC as well. For now I've put it back to stock, will update when I get the chance.
> EDIT
> I took your advice now my system is running at 4.5ghz 1.152v vcore load which is immensely better haha. Temps still under 62c 45 min into Prime95, gonna leave it overnight and hope for it to be all good. Thanks dude! Rep


Hi guys I had to go for an offset of 0.025 to get completely stable on the new bios, with the 3570k.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Make sure to set your Multiplier in this section of the Bios
> 
> 
> This pic is my bios on a 3770k at 45 with pc2133 mem running 2200mhz
> Now f10 to save and see what happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That offset for me gives an Idle of .960v and loaded of 1.28v different cpu but you get the picture


Hey Han,

How come you set the multiplier in that section of the bios? Why not just the turbo on the front page?

Ty


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Hey Han,
> How come you set the multiplier in that section of the bios? Why not just the turbo on the front page?
> Ty


I experienced some strange thing where the setting would not hold once. and tried setting it there instead and it worked.. That is what happened to me .. Dont know if others had it happen but since then i just made a habit of using that for setting the multiplier..Just is my method is all..


----------



## cwaters425

I am putting my build together, and today I finally tried my first boot. The case fans, CPU cooler, video card all power up, but I am getting a red led on the boot Device led. I have my blank ssd hooked up via the sata 6gb cableb and it's plugged into the brown sata port on the mobo. I get absolutely nothing on my monitor. Any help?

Thanks,
Chris


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> I am putting my build together, and today I finally tried my first boot. The case fans, CPU cooler, video card all power up, but I am getting a red led on the boot Device led. I have my blank ssd hooked up via the sata 6gb cableb and it's plugged into the brown sata port on the mobo. I get absolutely nothing on my monitor. Any help?
> Thanks,
> Chris


Can you see the Bios? How are you going load your Operating Sys? You will have to Boot from that device..Like say A cd rom or USB or where ever you have Your OP SYS.


----------



## cwaters425

No I can't see anything in the bios. This was my first boot to make sure everything would pass the post test. My case doesn't have a speaker so I can t determine if there are any error beeps. All the case fans, CPU cooler, DVD drive and video card are running but I get no video on the screen and have the boot device led that is red


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> No I can't see anything in the bios. This was my first boot to make sure everything would pass the post test. My case doesn't have a speaker so I can t determine if there are any error beeps. All the case fans, CPU cooler, DVD drive and video card are running but I get no video on the screen and have the boot device led that is red


Ah .. ok... pull the video card and cycle the power to the board.. then reinstall the card and see what happens... If that doesnt work ,, if you have room try the second pci e slot to see if that works .. If you have another system downoad the latest bios and install via the USB flashback method explained on page 2-43 in the manual.. Extract the download to a usb drive then rename the file Z77ST.CAP and follow the directions.. The nice thing about this method is you dont need a monitor or anything running.. just power your psu then thats it..you should only have the green led lit on the board


----------



## cwaters425

Ok, thanks. When I get back to work tomorrow I will pull my 680 and see what heppens. I will also try a different pic-e slot and if that doesn't work I will thy the bios flash. I hope it's an easy fix, I don't really want to have to mess with this


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> Ok, thanks. When I get back to work tomorrow I will pull my 680 and see what heppens. I will also try a different pic-e slot and if that doesn't work I will thy the bios flash. I hope it's an easy fix, I don't really want to have to mess with this


There was an Issue with 680 hang on UEFI driver that has been fixed in newer bios releases.. Try 1504 the latest...









SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1403
1.Improve compatibility with Windows 8 OS.
2.Improve system stability.
3.Enhance compatibility with some USB devices.
4. Fixed Nvidia GTX 680 hang when runing with UEFI driver.
5.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us


----------



## cwaters425

You think I should just try the bios flash first and see if that fixes it?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> You think I should just try the bios flash first and see if that fixes it?


Thats what im thinking.. Its super easy and i have had no problems thru 3 flashes with this method.. Its a Blind flash but works well.. Just remember power to the board ONLY..DON'T hit your power on button. And have that Bios File in the Root of the USB drive. And rename the file Z77ST.CAP...


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guys i have 2 evga gtx 670s in 2 way sli

I just wanted to know if there is any bios setting i need to change to mybe give the card better proformce.

thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi guys i have 2 evga gtx 670s in 2 way sli
> I just wanted to know if there is any bios setting i need to change to mybe give the card better proformce.
> thanks


Hey ..that build looks Familiar.







. I don't think there is much to change for sli..those cards should be in gen 3 and that's about it.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Hey ..that build looks Familiar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't think there is much to change for sli..those cards should be in gen 3 and that's about it.


how do i know if my cards are running in gen 3

i read a nother post and the guy said his 680 was running in gen2


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> how do i know if my cards are running in gen 3
> i read a nother post and the guy said his 680 was running in gen2


you have gen 3 cards and a gen 3 chipset and cpu that supports it


----------



## Hanoverfist

Use GPU-z to see your current PCI bus


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> you have gen 3 cards and a gen 3 chipset and cpu that supports it


sorry where does it say i am in gen 3 on gpu-z

Capture.PNG 142k .PNG file


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> sorry where does it say i am in gen 3 on gpu-z
> 
> Capture.PNG 142k .PNG file


I posted a screen shot of it. Bus Interface...halfway down


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> sorry where does it say i am in gen 3 on gpu-z
> 
> Capture.PNG 142k .PNG file


PCIE 3.0 means Gen 3.

Bus interface: *PCIE 3.0 x16 @ x16 3.0*

*PCIE 3.0 x16* ==> Link capability
*@ x16 3.0* ==> Negotiated link

Your card is not running at Gen 3 speed/bandwidth if it doesn't report *@ x16 3.0*. It will not reported *@ x16 3.0* if the card in power saving mode. Click "?" in GPU-Z & run the built in render. It will report the correct/max negotiated link.


----------



## ole12

Hey guys.

My first post to this awesome site.

I am serious considering the Z77 sabertooth MB, BUT i've heard it isn't good for watercooling and overclocking. AFAIK the MB needs a CPU fan to get air down the Thermal Armor to cool the chipset.
So without CPU fan blowing down air trough the armor, and overclocking a buch, how does the sabertooth handle that?
Is there any chipset fan you must use? Does it get noisy??

Because I wanna build a watercooling pc, and this MB is damn beautiful!

Thanks for your time.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ole12*
> 
> Hey guys.
> My first post to this awesome site.
> I am serious considering the Z77 sabertooth MB, BUT i've heard it isn't good for watercooling and overclocking. AFAIK the MB needs a CPU fan to get air down the Thermal Armor to cool the chipset.
> So without CPU fan blowing down air trough the armor, and overclocking a buch, how does the sabertooth handle that?
> Is there any chipset fan you must use? Does it get noisy??
> Because I wanna build a watercooling pc, and this MB is damn beautiful!
> Thanks for your time.


There are two 35mm assist fans that come with the board. They act as intake for air to circulate under the armor. So watercooling and overclocking are are quite easily accomplished on this board. And yes it is a beautiful board and lends to a black stealth theme I have.


----------



## Blatsz32

well Hanover, I just checked out your build thread this morning, I was flabbergasted. I didn't know you were into that kind of stuff. Amazing build btw. Someday I'm hoping to get something that is close to what yours looks like. tell you what though, water cooling parts are pretty expensive.

unfortunately I'm down to one card. My cable management looks better now though. I have a 240 and a 120 rad..the storm trooper is an awsome case but difficult to work with especially with a res like ours


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> well Hanover, I just checked out your build thread this morning, I was flabbergasted. I didn't know you were into that kind of stuff. Amazing build btw. Someday I'm hoping to get something that is close to what yours looks like. tell you what though, water cooling parts are pretty expensive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unfortunately I'm down to one card. My cable management looks better now though. I have a 240 and a 120 rad..the storm trooper is an awsome case but difficult to work with especially with a res like ours


Wow.. Thanks.. I have been building Computers for 14yrs and Water cooling since 2001.. My Current build I did do a fare amount of Planning and to tell you the truth after all the years of Problems with cable management and Trying to fit rads and tubing Going with a Super Tower was one Decision that can Remedy a lot of those types of size constraint problems.. And the Dual Loop was a last minute Decision.. And Yes this crap can get awfully Spendy Thanks for checking out the Build log.. Theres some funny Videos and some Overview stuff on the first page of the Build..


----------



## Blatsz32

check this out, 4.7 and a 4.8 overclock with the offset set to auto. ran OCCT for about 15min on each, Running the 4.8 as we speak. High temps but stable overclock. 
i think I can get to 5.0
take that back. after about 18minutes the 4.8 OCCT stopped itself. it said that core 3 had reached its max value..heat issues. wondering if I could lower the voltage to say 1.40 if it would be stable. Max voltage during the run was at 1.44. We'll have to see and I'll let you all know what happens


----------



## Zantrill

15?


----------



## Blatsz32

15! I just wanted to see if it was possible, not if I can let it stay 24-7.









I'd try for 2 hours but I just don't feel comfy hitting 90c and maintaining that for 2 hours. If my cpu broke I'd be s.o.l...id would take me a month to recoup my losses. I am running 4.6 stable 24/7


----------



## JasonGmt

Hey All,
New to the Forums.
As of 7-24-12 I am a z77 Sabertooth Owner. This is my second complete PC build.

Intel i7 3770K
Corsair Vengeance c70 Case in O.D. Green
Corsair Vengeance PC1866 x 32G (CMZ16GX3M2A1866C9 x 2)
Corsair H100
Corsair AX750
ASUS GTX670-DC2-2GD5
ASUS z77 Sabertooth
OcZ 256G Vertex 4 SATAIII

2 x 140mm Roswell Hyperboria PWM fans mounted on the bottom of case as intakes
H100 mounted at top of case with fans as exhausts.
removed both HDD caddy cages and relocated the 2 stock 120mm fans outside of the main case at the front, behind the front bezel as intakes.

OC'd @ 4.4GHz after about 6 hours of Prime 95 hits about 62C
GPU hits 1215MHz and stays between 62-65C playing Lord of the RIngs Online and Guild Wars 2

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2492012

I'm fairly newb-ish, so if you have tips for bench-marking my rig and posting some sort of validation for your viewing pleasure please feel free to let me know. I feel I have some more room for increasing my OC on my Proccesor without really taxing it thermally as it seems to always be at about 52C when I play LotRO or GW2.


----------



## Zantrill

no prob.... jelly but still







Let us know when it crashes. On the off chance it doesn't.... you may become my new best friend for 2.5 seconds


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blatsz32*
> 
> check this out, 4.7 and a 4.8 overclock with the offset set to auto. ran OCCT for about 15min on each, Running the 4.8 as we speak. High temps but stable overclock.
> i think I can get to 5.0
> take that back. after about 18minutes the 4.8 OCCT stopped itself. it said that core 3 had reached its max value..heat issues. wondering if I could lower the voltage to say 1.40 if it would be stable. Max voltage during the run was at 1.44. We'll have to see and I'll let you all know what happens


Try disable Hyperthreading if you want to drop your temp a little when making suicide runs.








When i Disable it and just run the Physical Cores temps drop about 10c on average


----------



## Lesiunta

Holler!

Just an update.
I took my Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C9kit to a new level last night on the Sabertooth Z77.



Went from 9-11-11-31 at 1.65v 2400MHz to 11-13-13-35 at 1.65v 2600MHz.

Was inspired to push more out of my system thanks to this article that Jake Crimmins posted on the Corsair blog.

http://www.corsair.com/en/blog/dominator-platinum-2133-2400-2666mhz-overclocks/


----------



## iARDAs

On saturday i will be installing this beauty to my new Corsair 800D case

I hope it will be worth it.


----------



## iARDAs

Guys my new Corsair D800 will have 3 120mm fans 3 140mm fans and 2 mroe 120mm fans for my H80

I will connect the H80 to the CPU fan header on the MOBO

I also have the 2 turbo fans connected on the MOBO

how will i install the other 6 fans on the motherboard though?

I dont have a fan controller at the moment. Is there a way to connect 3 of the top fans as one? What would i need?

Thank you.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Guys my new Corsair D800 will have 3 120mm fans 3 140mm fans and 2 mroe 120mm fans for my H80
> 
> I will connect the H80 to the CPU fan header on the MOBO
> I also have the 2 turbo fans connected on the MOBO
> how will i install the other 6 fans on the motherboard though?
> 
> I dont have a fan controller at the moment. Is there a way to connect 3 of the top fans as one? What would i need?
> 
> Thank you.


Do you know the wattage of the fans? you can use a 3 into 1 fan splitter like this
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_804_1011&products_id=31615


----------



## iARDAs

Thanks for the answer. The wattage is 12W per fan.

I will probably not be able to find that thing here in Turkey though. I best get myself a decent Fan controller


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanks for the answer. The wattage is 12W per fan.
> 
> I will probably not be able to find that thing here in Turkey though. I best get myself a decent Fan controller


That would be a good idea because the manual is Stating the CPU fan header only handles 1Amp or 12Watts so im still trying to find if the same holds true for the other Chassis Fan Headers..









Well to play it safe i am guessing 12w per fan header on the rest of the headers as well..


----------



## iARDAs

Again thank you for the response. 

I just ordered an Akasa FC Six fan controller. It should look good with my Corsair 800D case too. I will only connect the H80 CPU cooler to the motherboard, oh and also the turbo fans. Rest will be on this fan controller.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Again thank you for the response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered an Akasa FC Six fan controller. It should look good with my Corsair 800D case too. I will only connect the H80 CPU cooler to the motherboard, oh and also the turbo fans. Rest will be on this fan controller.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That will work great.. 30w per channel..


----------



## iARDAs

I hope so. Here in Turkey it is very popular, but on amazon.co.uk 2 people reviewed it and both gave 1 star lol


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I hope so. Here in Turkey it is very popular, but on amazon.co.uk 2 people reviewed it and both gave 1 star lol


2 of the best brands IMHO are Sunbeam and Lamptron.. But i understand not all Countries have all parts available and then your looking a shipping costs to get parts..


----------



## Bacchus84

I just got 2 of these boards delivered..
Would like to update the bios but I'm not sure if i can go straight to v.1504 from the default bios it shipped with..
Or do I need to flash the previous versions first in order?

T.I.A.

Beautiful board btw!


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus84*
> 
> I just got 2 of these boards delivered..
> Would like to update the bios but I'm not sure if i can go straight to v.1504 from the default bios it shipped with..
> Or do I need to flash the previous versions first in order?
> T.I.A.
> Beautiful board btw!


hey there mate.

Just flash the bios to 1504 and thats it


----------



## cwaters425

I bought my board the week it came out, and have been waiting for all my parts to arrived. I finally put it together this week and I can tell you, you can flash to the most current bios. I d/l the most current, I think it was 1504. extracted it and renamed the file to Z77ST.CAP and put my usb stick in the correct USB port and clicked the flash button. It took only a minute and worked flawlessly.

thanks,
Chris


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> I bought my board the week it came out, and have been waiting for all my parts to arrived. I finally put it together this week and I can tell you, you can flash to the most current bios. I d/l the most current, I think it was 1504. extracted it and renamed the file to Z77ST.CAP and put my usb stick in the correct USB port and clicked the flash button. It took only a minute and worked flawlessly.
> thanks,
> Chris


So I take it everything has worked out?


----------



## kb58

Okay, built up a system and am trying to figure out where to connect my SATA 6Gb/s SSD I want to use as the boot drive. I also have two 1TB SATA 6Gb/s harddrives for data storage and want them set up as RAID 1 (mirrored.) Reading the manual it says I should use the Intel (brown) SATA ports for the RAID harddrives - okay, fine. But I had boot problems and after some digging, ran across a post that claimed:
Quote:


> Also, IF the SSD are for the OS then you MUST use the Intel SATA ports, the ASMedia are for Data only i.e. not bootable.


Huh? I can't use the Intel SATA 6Gb/s ports for both my boot drive and my RAID storage drives because there are only two ports available. I'd like to use only SATA 6Gb/s ports in order to keep drive access times down.

There are four ASMedia SATA 6 Gb/s ports, but since the manual says nothing about them being able to handle RAID, I assume they're out. The manual also says those ports are for data harddrives only, so using them for the boot drive appears to be out as well.

It appears that either the boot drive or data drives will have to move to the Intel SATA 3 Gb/s port, which is disappointing. Is this just how it is?It seems a real shame to have to kick the data throughput in the nuts and cut it in half. Is there any way round this? Other than this issue, this motherboard is amazing!

[Edit]
It looks like another part of my problem is that I set the SATA ports to "RAID" *after* loading windows... that can't of helped. However, my question still stands, is there a way to retain SATA 6Gb/s throughput for both my boot *and* RAID drives?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kb58*
> 
> Okay, built up a system and am trying to figure out where to connect my SATA 6Gb/s SSD I want to use as the boot drive. I also have two 1TB SATA 6Gb/s harddrives for data storage and want them set up as RAID 1 (mirrored.) Reading the manual it says I should use the Intel (brown) SATA ports for the RAID harddrives - okay, fine. But I had boot problems and after some digging, ran across a post that claimed:
> Huh? I can't use the Intel SATA 6Gb/s ports for both my boot drive and my RAID storage drives because there are only two ports available. I'd like to use only SATA 6Gb/s ports in order to keep drive access times down.
> It appears that either the boot drive or data drives will have to move to the SATA 3 Gb/s port, which is disappointing. Is this just how it is? I realize that there are two ASMedia SATA 6 Gb/s ports, but since the manual says nothing about them being able to handle RAID, I assume that's out. And, since they say for data harddrives only, using them for the boot drive appears to be out as well.
> It seems a real shame to have to kick the data throughput in the nuts and cut it in half. Is there any way round this? Other than this issue, this motherboard is amazing!
> [Edit]
> It looks like another part of my problem is that I set the SATA ports to "RAID" *after* loading windows... that can't of helped. However, my question still stands, is there a way to retain SATA 6Gb/s throughput for both my boot *and* RAID drives?


Yeah your kinda stuck with either your Raid array on brown or kicked down to black..Its a shame Asmedia does not support Raid and or Boot.
The Black ports do support raid but obviously at 3gb/s .. So ..keep your storage drives on black in raid and boot ssd on brown is what i would do..
Also did you see page 4-31? " Due to the Chipset limitation, when set any of SATA ports to Raid mode, all SATA ports run at Raid mode together."
Hmmm.. Or you could buy a controller card but not really a great option..


----------



## kb58

Thanks Hanoverfist, I was hoping you'd reply - you're a terrific one-man information source here!
Quote:


> Also did you see page 4-31? " Due to the Chipset limitation, when set any of SATA ports to Raid mode, all SATA ports run at Raid mode together."


Yes I saw that and it was bugging me in the back of my mind. It makes things even more confusing because it seems to imply that if I set the ports to RAID, then how the heck can I ever boot the machine? "If" that quote in my first post is correct - that only Intel ports can be used for boot drives - then it isn't possible to have RAID on this board? I almost don't believe that - people _do_ have RAID drives running on this motherboard afterall. The question is then, where are they plugging in their boot drive? I suspect they're putting it on one of the two ASMedia 6Gb/s ports.

Any RAID users here care to comment how you have your drives plugged in?

Also, can someone point to where it says that only Intel SATA ports can be used for boot drives? Reason I ask is because before I started messing with the RAID settings, my machine was booting into Windows via the ASMedia 6Gb/s port just fine...

And thanks, this forum's awesome!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kb58*
> 
> Thanks Hanoverfist, I was hoping you'd reply - you're a terrific one-man information source here!
> Yes I saw that and it was bugging me in the back of my mind. It makes things even more confusing because it seems to imply that if I set the ports to RAID, then how the heck can I ever boot the machine? "If" that post I quoted is correct - that only Intel ports can be used for boot drives - then it isn't possible to have RAID on this board? I almost don't believe that - people _do_ have RAID drives running on this motherboard afterall. The question is then, where are they plugging in their boot drive? I suspect they're putting it on one of the two ASMedia 6Gb/s ports.
> Any RAID users here care to comment how you have your drives plugged in?
> And thanks, this forum's awesome!


I kinda take that statement on pg 4-31 to mean if you set the black ports to raid mode it would just affect those ports and not the brown ports.. which you could still use as your boot with a single ssd..
From everything i have read Asmedia does not support Raid OR Boot...


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> That would be a good idea because the manual is Stating the CPU fan header only handles 1Amp or 12Watts so im still trying to find if the same holds true for the other Chassis Fan Headers..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well to play it safe i am guessing 12w per fan header on the rest of the headers as well..


I have done everything in my power to get a straight answer from Asus. Emailing them, they said they weren't sure and to call. So I called, and sat on the phone for 45 minutes only for them to tell me it *should* be the same as the cpu fan.

I find it hard to believe they don't know the exact numbers...call the engineers. I was really happy with Asus support in the past (technical questions and such), but this was a bit disheartening.

I ended up buying a sentry mesh controller. $24.00 on amazon. Doesn't look too bad in my C70 OD case.

Also, strange thing happened last night. My ram went down from 7.9 to 7.8 in wei. I wonder if its from the latest bios? When i originally got the ram, it was ranked at 7.8, but then I changed the command rate to 1 and it went up. Nothing has changed, so I'm a bit confused.


----------



## kb58

Quote:


> ... if you set the black ports to raid mode it would just affect those ports...


Wait... how do I set just those ports to RAID? I don't have the machine in front of me, but as I recall, there's only one BIOS setting for RAID - either it's on or off - and appears to apply to all ports.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> I have done everything in my power to get a straight answer from Asus. Emailing them, they said they weren't sure and to call. So I called, and sat on the phone for 45 minutes only for them to tell me it *should* be the same as the cpu fan.
> I find it hard to believe they don't know the exact numbers...call the engineers. I was really happy with Asus support in the past (technical questions and such), but this was a bit disheartening.
> I ended up buying a sentry mesh controller. $24.00 on amazon. Doesn't look too bad in my C70 OD case.
> Also, strange thing happened last night. My ram went down from 7.9 to 7.8 in wei. I wonder if its from the latest bios? When i originally got the ram, it was ranked at 7.8, but then I changed the command rate to 1 and it went up. Nothing has changed, so I'm a bit confused.


Thats funny about your WEI score ..my ram does 7.9 but my 3770k gets 7.8.. I dont know how much stock to put into this WEI score.. Obviously its some indication of how well your hardware works but ....
and to this amp draw question, I cant find the answer so Im sticking with 1 amp for all Headers until something shows different.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kb58*
> 
> Wait... how do I set just those ports to RAID? I don't have the machine in front of me, but as I recall, there's only one BIOS setting for RAID - either it's on or off - and appears to apply to all ports.


On the initial setup of raid I believe you would just select the 2 drives, in your case , that say are connected to the black ports and go from there.. I have not done this so can not be sure as to the affect on the drive connected to brown at this point.

There might be some info here that could help you better than me..
http://www.overclock.net/t/1227670/how-to-set-up-raid#post_16685084


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Thats funny about your WEI score ..my ram does 7.9 but my 3770k gets 7.8.. I dont know how much stock to put into this WEI score.. Obviously its some indication of how well your hardware works but ....
> and to this amp draw question, I cant find the answer so Im sticking with 1 amp for all Headers until something shows different.


Ty for rep









My ram is only running 800/1600mhz so I guess I shouldn't worry about it too much.

Yeah, I was originally worried because I was using NZXT Y-splitters (3.99 on amazon) for my case fans and using AI Suite. AI suite would occasionally show that the fan speeds had slowed to low RPMS, but this might just be software bugs much like the power supply errors is sometimes throws. Either way, getting the Sentry Mesh controller, takes care of that. 30w per channel and I can run the splitter without worry.

The only negative is that with Corsair SP120 Quiets, the fan motor will make a ticking sound with the controller on certain speeds/voltages. It seems to like really low (slow/quiet) or full volts (louder, more air movement) If I put it to halfway, it makes a ticking noise.

It's not the end of the world, because if I want it to me quiet, I just turn them all the way down. If I'm going to be gaming, I just turn them up. I also like not having to have the AI suite services and extras running in the background. I suppose I could go back to the headers on the board, because I don't think the ticking occurred, but well...I'm just overthinking now.


----------



## iARDAs

I was fedup with my wireless internet and decided to go wired.

I installed the intel lan drivers for the motherboard and everything is solid right now

I will try to stay on wired internet


----------



## kb58

Solved my own problem - by going around it. Decided to not mess with RAID due to it being limited to only using the 3 Gb/s SATA ports (for RAID 1.) Instead I'll set up Windows 7 to do periodic backups from one data disk to the other. That way I can keep both my SSD OS drive and harddrives on 6 Gb/s ports


----------



## Bacchus84

As I mentioned yesterday I wanted to update my BIOS.

Today I've completed putting the system together.

I downloaded the 1504 BIOS version, renamed the cap file to Z77ST.CAP, transferred it to my USB 3.0 stick (corsair flash voyager GT 16GB), then inserted it into the proper USB port on the rear I/O panel, pressed the BIOS button, waited till it stopped blinking, removed the USB and booted up...

But.. it still reads BIOS version 1015 on the main screen









The BIOS LED blinked for about 1 or 2 mins. then turned into a stable light and the corsair USB stick has its own LED which blinked occasionally during the BIOS LED blinking so it definitly got read from.. according to the manual if the BIOS LED turns into a stable light after blinking for 5 secs. (mine blinked quite a bit longer) it indicates the flashback doesn't work properly due to improper USB connection (stick is seated properly), BIOS file name error (file is named correctly), or an incompatible BIOS file format (still the same ol' .CAP file I downloaded from the ASUS website). also the .CAP file is the only file present on the stick. + the only USB stick I have that's still alive is the corsair one I bought a couple months ago so I can't try another one.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

T.I.A.

Edit: tried extracting the .CAP file straight to the USB stick and then renaming it : same result.

Don't know if this is relevant but I have not yet installed windows, simply put everything together, checked to see if the system would POST and if the board recognized all the connected hardware, left all options on default, turned the system off and started the BIOS update.

The manual mentions the USB flashback at the end of chapter 2 which explains the LED behaviour and once more in the AI suite chapters. Do I need to install windows + the AI software first to get this function to work?


----------



## cwaters425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> So I take it everything has worked out?


Yes, everything worked great! Thanks again for the help. However after I unplugged everything to route my cables and hide everything, I went to plug in my USB 3.0 internal adapter into the motherboard header and it bent most of the pins. So I just filled out an RMA with ASUS. Hopefully they can fix it or, just send me a new board.

-Chris


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> Yes, everything worked great! Thanks again for the help. However after I unplugged everything to route my cables and hide everything, I went to plug in my USB 3.0 internal adapter into the motherboard header and it bent most of the pins. So I just filled out an RMA with ASUS. Hopefully they can fix it or, just send me a new board.
> -Chris


No offense, but do you think Asus will replace the board because you bent the pins?!


----------



## cwaters425

I think they will, this is one of their flagship boards and it has one of the best warrenty's out there. if not I'm not sure what I am going to do.


----------



## Davitz

My first arrived doa, ordered a second and im gonna rma the old one when the new one gets here









Check nightfury v2 sig rig for full specs. Ill post pics when the beast has awakened and been unleashed


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> I think they will, this is one of their flagship boards and it has one of the best warrenty's out there. if not I'm not sure what I am going to do.


Asus does have a great warranty on this board, but it doesn't cover human error.


----------



## cwaters425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Asus does have a great warranty on this board, but it doesn't cover human error.


I called them and you are right they will not cover it. The great option they gave me was to send it back to them and pay a minimum $120 bench fee to get it fixed plus shipping :/


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> I called them and you are right they will not cover it. The great option they gave me was to send it back to them and pay a minimum $120 bench fee to get it fixed plus shipping :/


Well at least you don't have to go and buy a new one.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> I called them and you are right they will not cover it. The great option they gave me was to send it back to them and pay a minimum $120 bench fee to get it fixed plus shipping :/


OUCH!!!!...You were doing so good..


----------



## cwaters425

Well I end up pulling everything out any took some needle nose plyers and straightened back the bent pins ( none were broke). I plugged my USB 3.0 adapter back in. Hopefully when I get back to work Monday I can test that port and make sure it's good. I guess as long as I plug a USB device (external hdd or thumb drive) in the port and it works, I'm assuming it will be good to go.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> Well I end up pulling everything out any took some needle nose plyers and straightened back the bent pins ( none were broke). I plugged my USB 3.0 adapter back in. Hopefully when I get back to work Monday I can test that port and make sure it's good. I guess as long as I plug a USB device (external hdd or thumb drive) in the port and it works, I'm assuming it will be good to go.


As long as none of the solder trace from the pin to the board contact is broken you should be fine.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus84*
> 
> As I mentioned yesterday I wanted to update my BIOS.
> Today I've completed putting the system together.
> I downloaded the 1504 BIOS version, renamed the cap file to Z77ST.CAP, transferred it to my USB 3.0 stick (corsair flash voyager GT 16GB), then inserted it into the proper USB port on the rear I/O panel, pressed the BIOS button, waited till it stopped blinking, removed the USB and booted up...
> But.. it still reads BIOS version 1015 on the main screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BIOS LED blinked for about 1 or 2 mins. then turned into a stable light and the corsair USB stick has its own LED which blinked occasionally during the BIOS LED blinking so it definitly got read from.. according to the manual if the BIOS LED turns into a stable light after blinking for 5 secs. (mine blinked quite a bit longer) it indicates the flashback doesn't work properly due to improper USB connection (stick is seated properly), BIOS file name error (file is named correctly), or an incompatible BIOS file format (still the same ol' .CAP file I downloaded from the ASUS website). also the .CAP file is the only file present on the stick. + the only USB stick I have that's still alive is the corsair one I bought a couple months ago so I can't try another one.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> T.I.A.
> Edit: tried extracting the .CAP file straight to the USB stick and then renaming it : same result.
> Don't know if this is relevant but I have not yet installed windows, simply put everything together, checked to see if the system would POST and if the board recognized all the connected hardware, left all options on default, turned the system off and started the BIOS update.
> The manual mentions the USB flashback at the end of chapter 2 which explains the LED behaviour and once more in the AI suite chapters. Do I need to install windows + the AI software first to get this function to work?


Im not sure if you ever got this fixed and can only find one other user with a flashing problem at the moment .. it is unclear what he did to solve this http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1870#post_17832443
It seems you have tried everything .. The only suggestion i can make is to pull the Battery then clear your cmos..then try your flash..

Have you tried CPU z to see your bios version


----------



## kb58

Thermal Radar Fan Bug?

Before and after building my system I've been doing a lot of reading - but haven't seen this bug mentioned.

Set the system up and it's running great, and to quiet the fans a bit more I loaded Asus's Ai Suite so I could use Thermal Radar. It's an awesome tool but appears to have introduced an annoying problem. Randomly, the fan LEDs (and I suspect, the fans themselves) turn off. It's never for very long, like maybe half a second. Nothing seems to induce it to happen, it "just does."

Also, sometime later after installing it and setting up custom fan speeds, I noticed that one fan speed was listed in red, denoting that it was dangerously slow. Went in and checked its graph, and just as I clicked on one of the curve's data points, its speed magically returned to normal.

Anyone else seen this? I've seen a few posts saying that their Ai Suite is buggy, but haven't seen mention of a bug that causes the fans to randomly turn off. The worst case would be to walk out of the room only to have it turn off *all* the fans... that would be very very bad. Since cooling air is the lifeblood of our PCs, I can't risk killing my 3770K processor due to buggy code - a shame, as it could be a great app.

I don't think it's a hardware problem because if I uninstall Thermal Radar the fans then work fine...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kb58*
> 
> Thermal Radar Fan Bug?
> Before and after building my system I've been doing a lot of reading - but haven't seen this bug mentioned.
> Set the system up and it's running great, and to quiet the fans a bit more I loaded Asus's Ai Suite so I could use Thermal Radar. It's an awesome tool but appears to have introduced an annoying problem. Randomly, the fan LEDs (and I suspect, the fans themselves) turn off. It's never for very long, like maybe half a second. Nothing seems to induce it to happen, it "just does."
> Also, sometime later after installing it and setting up custom fan speeds, I noticed that one fan speed was listed in red, denoting that it was dangerously slow. Went in and checked its graph, and just as I clicked on one of the curve's data points, its speed magically returned to normal.
> Anyone else seen this? I've seen a few posts saying that their Ai Suite is buggy, but haven't seen mention of a bug that causes the fans to randomly turn off. The worst case would be to walk out of the room only to have it turn off *all* the fans... that would be very very bad. Since cooling air is the lifeblood of our PCs, I can't risk killing my 3770K processor due to buggy code - a shame, as it could be a great app.
> I don't think it's a hardware problem because if I uninstall Thermal Radar the fans then work fine...


Personally I am not a fan of AI suite and would invest in a fan controller or simply run them off the bios fan control


----------



## Jonation

My VGA_Status LED went off this morning when i was tooling around the bios. screen froze. then black. now it wont go off.

Swapped out my GTX570 for a GTS450 nothing. Tried all the other PCIE slots with both, nothing.

Did my mobo just die in 3 months?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonation*
> 
> My VGA_Status LED went off this morning when i was tooling around the bios. screen froze. then black. now it wont go off.
> Swapped out my GTX570 for a GTS450 nothing. Tried all the other PCIE slots with both, nothing.
> Did my mobo just die in 3 months?


Power down the board completely and shut off your powersupply.. now pull your graphics card so none is installed.. clear the cmos.. power the board back up without a graphics card installed.affectively booting without a graphics card. then shut off again.. Install the graphics card and boot.. see what happens...


----------



## Jonation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Power down the board completely and shut off your powersupply.. now pull your graphics card so none is installed.. clear the cmos.. power the board back up without a graphics card installed.affectively booting without a graphics card. then shut off again.. Install the graphics card and boot.. see what happens...


REP+ appreciate the fast response man. works with the GTS450. unfortunately now i have to redo the loop for the second time today, for the 570


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonation*
> 
> REP+ appreciate the fast response man. works with the GTS450. unfortunately now i have to redo the loop for the second time today, for the 570


No Problem


----------



## Jonation

Now i have the boot device status led... i went in and re-entered the bios after the cmos reset. but now it just wont boot into anything.


----------



## iARDAs

Guys i got myself a Corsair 800D case

The case has a cable called 1394

where can i install this on my MOBO?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonation*
> 
> Now i have the boot device status led... i went in and re-entered the bios after the cmos reset. but now it just wont boot into anything.


What bios are you using?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Guys i got myself a Corsair 800D case
> 
> The case has a cable called 1394
> 
> where can i install this on my MOBO?


This board does not support Firewire so you will be unable to use that cable


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> This board does not support Firewire so you will be unable to use that cable


Thank you

didnt know what that cable was at all.


----------



## Jonation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What bios are you using?


1504, im gonna hit it with another cmos reset

EDIT: Now its the dram led (after another reset). is this a freaking joke?
EDIT EDIT: Another another reset later, its back to the boot.

It just hangs at "press f1 for setup"


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonation*
> 
> 1504, im gonna hit it with another cmos reset
> EDIT: Now its the dram led (after another reset). is this a freaking joke?
> EDIT EDIT: Another another reset later, its back to the boot.
> It just hangs at "press f1 for setup"


Have you tried loading optimized default? i believe its f5 when in the BIOS


----------



## Jonation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have you tried loading optimized default? i believe its f5 when in the BIOS


yea, ive done that every time. havent even bothered to tweak it, just want to get into windows.
the boot device led is red even when i unplug every sata cable/hdd/ssd - including doing the cmos reset in a similar manner to the graphics card.
frustrating.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonation*
> 
> yea, ive done that every time. havent even bothered to tweak it, just want to get into windows.
> the boot device led is red even when i unplug every sata cable/hdd/ssd - including doing the cmos reset in a similar manner to the graphics card.
> frustrating.


you have set that boot drive up in the bios correctly ? Told it to boot from your Win drive.. Tried different cables.. different sata ports?


----------



## Jonation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> you have set that boot drive up in the bios correctly ? Told it to boot from your Win drive.. Tried different cables.. different sata ports?


yep. i have been using only the ssd with windows so i could isolate it. its the only option and i set it anyway to be safe. again the boot_device led is on regardless of connections.

edit: got it through sata3 ports. gonna try the 6 again. success. for now. gotta put the 570 back in, thats another day.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonation*
> 
> yep. i have been using only the ssd with windows so i could isolate it. its the only option and i set it anyway to be safe. again the boot_device led is on regardless of connections.


My last bit of advice would be to flash another bios version 1403 but something is corrupted in your current version for sure.. Do you have another drive to try?


----------



## Hanoverfist

If all else fails ..RMA your not the first and wont be the last..


----------



## kb58

Over the last couple of weeks I've read through this entire thread, but haven't come across the following.

I started out thinking that I wanted an SSD for programs, and two harddrives for user stuff configured as RAID 1 (mirrored.) Unfortunately it didn't seem possible to run both the SSD and both harddrives on SATA III (6 Gb/sec.) Eventually I gave up on using RAID and instead plan to use Window's scheduled backup to save my stuff from one harddrive to the other.

Up until yesterday I had the system set up as follows, which lets all my stuff run at 6 Gb/sec:
Intel SATA III
- SSD
- CD drive

ASMedia SATA III
- Harddrive 1
- Harddrive 2

Yesterday I spent hours moving files over from my old PC to this new one, most via the network, and it went fine. Later I was transferring more files over and ran into the following. I had a 6 GB file on one of the harddrives and was shuffling files around, and at one point copied it, with the intent of renaming it. It got 5 GB through the tranfer and then locked up the entire PC hard - nothing worked, mouse, CTRL-ALT-DEL, nothing. I had to hard-reset the machine, noting the warning that "windows didn't shut down correctly." I deleted the partial copy tried again - same exact thing happened again. Just for fun I tried it a third time - same thing.

The ASMedia drivers on the web are June 2012 so I have the latest, so that's not it. Since I figure no one's going to know what's causing this, I decided to go around the problem this way:

Intel SATA III
- SSD
- Harddrive 1

Intel SATA II
- Harddrive 2

ASMedia SATA III
- CD drive (we'll see if it plays nice with this port)

The thinking is that since the scheduled backup works in the background, the slower speed of the backup drive won't be an issue. I'm just posting this as an FYI in case you run into the same thing.


----------



## revro

i am thinking about tri fire 7970 but see the third 4x slot as problematic as just under it are some connectors possibly for buttons or usb devices on front of case. has anyone been using Radeons where the 3rd card was covering the last 2 slots? also what about the gpu temperatures between second and third graphic cards as seconds air intake is covered by 3rd card
http://www.asus.com/websites/Global/products/wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ/kQbZNtmYEccCxepl_500.jpg

thank you
revro


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revro*
> 
> i am thinking about tri fire 7970 but see the third 4x slot as problematic as just under it are some connectors possibly for buttons or
> usb devices on front of case. has anyone been using Radeons where the 3rd card was covering the last 2 slots? also what about the gpu temperatures between second and third graphic cards as seconds air intake is covered by 3rd card
> http://www.asus.com/websites/Global/products/wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ/kQbZNtmYEccCxepl_500.jpg
> thank you
> revro


This board really does not do 3 cards at all. The bottom pcie is only x4 and pci 2.0 . So your going to end up with 8 x 4 x 4. Not even worth it. Run 2 cards much better in my opinion. 8 x 8 pci 3.0 in slots 1 and 2.


----------



## trancefreak64

Thanks to all the responses on the USB 3.0 20 pin header. Now I fear to buy another card reader since Sigg told me they test all their products on ASUS boards. They even stated they have Sabertooth z77 bench board for testing that does work.

I have the 1 extra 20 pin MSI rear header port that is working flawlessly with my Sabertooth 2 USB 3.0 20 pin front header port. I have tested both ports with 2 32GB USB Flash drives and they are fairly quick with no hassle.

ASUS gave the usual recommendations like making sure my USB 3.0 was in legacy mode, Update to the latest Bios ETC all the stuff I have done already. When I asked the last tech if I should just RMA the board he told me to read the manual LOL on how to connect the adapter mhhh ok.

I think I might just RMA the board. I have the warranty so I rather know for sure if I have a real issue or not.

Anyways thanks for all the help here.


----------



## Trip99

Hi, just came back from a week's holiday during which time all power to my machine was off and the Bios had forgotten all settings and the time was wrong etc, To me this suggests the motherboard battery is dead, would others think the same? If so how easy is it to change it? Thanks.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> Hi, just came back from a week's holiday during which time all power to my machine was off and the Bios had forgotten all settings and the time was wrong etc, To me this suggests the motherboard battery is dead, would others think the same? If so how easy is it to change it? Thanks.


Yes, that would be a good indicator that the battery is dead. I would just try to reset the date/time and power off for awhile again just to see if it holds the settings... The battery on these things is just a button cell. it's easy to change, but you will need to remove the armor because its near the pci slots underneath.


----------



## Bacchus84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Im not sure if you ever got this fixed and can only find one other user with a flashing problem at the moment .. it is unclear what he did to solve this http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1870#post_17832443
> It seems you have tried everything .. The only suggestion i can make is to pull the Battery then clear your cmos..then try your flash..
> Have you tried CPU z to see your bios version


CPU-Z shows the default BIOS version as well








I've decided to keep the BIOS as it is for now.. I've never really been comfortable updating the BIOS on anything and using the BIOS flashback feature seems to me to be a really safe and care-free way of doing it.. but for now I can live with the TUF logo flashing on the screen twice on startup.
My second board has the exact same problem so I'm pretty convinced it has something to do with this particular USB stick..
Kinda strange since it's pretty much brand new









The second boards boot device LED stays lit while in BIOS, system POSTs just fine and the LED goes out as soon as I go into windows.
Both drives are recognized in BIOS and OS so I'm not too concerned about that minor issue.

All in alll I'm extremely happy with this rig.. It's the first SSD I've purchased and it's lightning fast.. can hardly believe it's for real lol









When I'm done installing all my programs I'll have another look at updating the BIOS with EZ flash 2, see if that will work and then start overclocking
Will post some pics when I have time.

Thank you for the advice









Bacchus


----------



## Bacchus84

Btw, is there any stuff in the software package you guys would recommend not installing?
I don't plan on using any of the ASmedia SATA and USB features for example, will I run into problems by not installing those drivers?

I'm also wondering if I should install the Intel Rapid Storage Tech driver, I plan on keeping my drives in AHCI mode and the only benefit the driver seems to offer for that mode is Native Command Queuing but I'm unable to determine if the WD caviar black HDD supports that function.. one site says it does, the other says it doesn't


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> Hi, just came back from a week's holiday during which time all power to my machine was off and the Bios had forgotten all settings and the time was wrong etc, To me this suggests the motherboard battery is dead, would others think the same? If so how easy is it to change it? Thanks.


Same here. My time decides to change when its in a bad mood. its like 3 hours behind every 3 or 4 days this happens.


----------



## Trip99

Yeh its weird. I get other weird things with this board too like not being able to come out of sleep correctly and after restoring the bios the network card not working in Windows (I have to uninstall it and reinstall it). Thing is during actual operation it is sound with never a problem and very stable


----------



## chimuelo

Anyone using the on die Graphics for basic 2D work and noticing any effect on the system RAM or ant performance...?

Thanks


----------



## Z Overlord

So I flashed to newest bios, and reentered my OC settings from memory, everything look good or not too out of the ordinary?


----------



## Am3Y

Guys How To Update All The Drivers (Including BIOS) ???
Is There any auto driver update finder ??


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Is There any auto driver update finder ??


Check in my signature "Detect your drivers".

That said proprietary Asus drivers will have to be installed from the support page.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> So I flashed to newest bios, and reentered my OC settings from memory, everything look good or not too out of the ordinary?


Are you not a fan of Speed step .. personally allowing the cpu frequency and voltage to scale based on load is a feature i find to be kinda cool, Instead of supplying that manual voltage to the cpu 24/7, you could Idle with a way lower voltage
ALSO there is a screen shot feature in the bios.. simply insert a USB stick and press f12 in whatever screen you want to save.. that saves it as a BMP image to the USB.. To convert those to IMG image just use a simple freeware tool like this http://www.easy2convert.com/bmp2jpg/
That will allow you to embed IMG files into the POST and they are much clearer


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys How To Update All The Drivers (Including BIOS) ???
> Is There any auto driver update finder ??


The simplest AND Safest way to update your bios is as follows.. If you have a USB drive .. Download and Extract the file to the Root of your USB drive.. Now rename the file to Z77ST.CAP
It is wise to have only this CAP file on the drive if possible. Now power down your system but leave power supplied to the board.. You should only have the green led on the board light .. now follow the directions in the manual on page 2-43 .. this is a simple and safe way to update here is a shot of an actual flash i did on my board.. Please use either Asus download site that i have linked to have the latest drivers or the supplied CD that came with the board... I would suggest not using VirtuMVP or Network Icontrol.. can be buggy.
As far as your video card is concerned download drivers for that from Manufactuter site or what ever flavor your card is Nvidia or AMD

Z77 board Downloads here http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

Bios Flash in Progress



Video card drivers Nvidia http://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx?lang=en-us

AMD http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/index.aspx

There is auto detect on both sites


----------



## iARDAs

Guys i have a question

What does P+ and P- led does? I am talking about the cables that come with cases and we attach to our motherboards.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Guys i have a question
> 
> What does P+ and P- led does? I am talking about the cables that come with cases and we attach to our motherboards.


Thats your Power light LED leads for your case led page 2-38 in manual.. I am assuming you also have PowerSW that would be power on switch


----------



## iARDAs

Thanks for the response. Ok here is why I asked and I cant udnerstand anything.

I bought an Akasa FC. Six Fan controller. I had installed it to my previous case 2 days ago without any issues.

Than again 2 days ago I installed it to my brand new Corsair 800D case and my 2 Noctua NFp12 fans did not work with the fan controller (before they used to)

Also i realized that the fan controller lights on top of each 6 controllers were lit, however only 4 fans were connected. The other 2 lights were not supposed to lit.

And when i turned off the fans via the controller, the lights were still lit, although they are supposed to turn off themselves.

For 2 days I dealt with this problem and now i opeend my case again and saw that I mis matched P+ led and P- led. They were in each other's spot. Now i installed them to the correct parts and all my problems with the fan controller were solved.

Coincidence? or is there any logic behind this?

Also now my fans are working much louder when at max. When i had this problem the fan noise was not that high on max fan controller settings telling me that the fan controller was not working optimally.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanks for the response. Ok here is why I asked and I cant udnerstand anything.
> 
> I bought an Akasa FC. Six Fan controller. I had installed it to my previous case 2 days ago without any issues.
> 
> Than again 2 days ago I installed it to my brand new Corsair 800D case and my 2 Noctua NFp12 fans did not work with the fan controller (before they used to)
> 
> Also i realized that the fan controller lights on top of each 6 controllers were lit, however only 4 fans were connected. The other 2 lights were not supposed to lit.
> 
> And when i turned off the fans via the controller, the lights were still lit, although they are supposed to turn off themselves.
> 
> For 2 days I dealt with this problem and now i opeend my case again and saw that I mis matched P+ led and P- led. They were in each other's spot. Now i installed them to the correct parts and all my problems with the fan controller were solved.
> 
> Coincidence? or is there any logic behind this?
> 
> Also now my fans are working much louder when at max. When i had this problem the fan noise was not that high on max fan controller settings telling me that the fan controller was not working optimally.


That is Strange because your Fan Controller gets its power from a 4 pin Molex correct? That should come straight from a 12v leg on your PSU.
If anything your Case Power LED should have been Only thing affected.. scratches head... Good to hear you have solved though..


----------



## Edb007th

Hanover, what gadget are you using to monitor your goodies on the bottom right of your screenshots?

ps. How can I make sure I'm getting the most out of my RAM (Gskill F3-2400C10 4Gx2)

Thanks!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> Hanover, what gadget are you using to monitor your goodies on the bottom right of your screenshots?
> ps. How can I make sure I'm getting the most out of my RAM (Gskill F3-2400C10 4Gx2)
> Thanks!


Its called open hardware monitor.. once installed right click on any sensor and choose add to gadget.. you can also re name any sensor to correspond to what the item actually is rather than say fan 5 you can rename to 200mm fan or whatever..
http://openhardwaremonitor.org/downloads/

here is some ram benchmark thread http://www.overclock.net/t/553039/maxxmem-benchmark-results-thread#post_6866656


----------



## Wardrop

Does anyone else have issues throttling the speed of their CPU fans. I've got the fan profile of all my fans set to silent, and all of them run at about 800rpm idle except for my two CPU fans (plugged into the CPU and CPU_OPT fan headers), which constantly sit at 1400rpm. They're the exact same fan as the rest of my chassis fans. I've even tried setting a custom fan profile using the AI Suite software (Thermal Radar), but it has no affect. I've now got my two CPU fans plugged into the only two free fan headers available (chassis_3 and asst_1) where throttling works. Just wondering if this means my CPU fans have issues, or if I'm missing something?


----------



## falcon2099

Well I got my Sabertooth a few days ago and I'm absoultely loving it. Installed very easily.. the only issue I had was when installing the OS. Windows would not install to my main system drive until I disconnected my other drives. Other than that smooth sailing. No OC'ing as of yet as I dont really need to.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wardrop*
> 
> Does anyone else have issues throttling the speed of their CPU fans. I've got the fan profile of all my fans set to silent, and all of them run at about 800rpm idle except for my two CPU fans (plugged into the CPU and CPU_OPT fan headers), which constantly sit at 1400rpm. They're the exact same fan as the rest of my chassis fans. I've even tried setting a custom fan profile using the AI Suite software (Thermal Radar), but it has no affect. I've now got my two CPU fans plugged into the only two free fan headers available (chassis_3 and asst_1) where throttling works. Just wondering if this means my CPU fans have issues, or if I'm missing something?


Have you tried Q Fan controll in your bios, I have my CPU fan dissabled because I have water cooling, Set it to silent in your bios.


----------



## Rakin

Are there any VRM Waterblocks for this board? Or are they not needed?


----------



## Wardrop

Yes I do. It was kind of implied in my post. It's like the internal voltage regulator responsible for controlling the fans is not functioning for the CPU fan headers. I've cleared the CMOS and updated the BIOS.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Add me to the List. Just love the board. Not finished yet.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Are there any VRM Waterblocks for this board? Or are they not needed?


Not that I know of.


----------



## cwaters425

Well I got back to work today and hooked up my machine and all is running fine. I tried a thumb dirve in the USB 3.0 front port on my case and it popped up and opened the files fine. Im glad I was able to get those bent pins fixed. I will post some pics of my rig later tonight. Im still waiting for my monitor (BenQ XL2420T) - should be here by the end of the week, then I'm ready to go! Thanks again for all of your Help Hanoverfist


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> Well I got back to work today and hooked up my machine and all is running fine. I tried a thumb dirve in the USB 3.0 front port on my case and it popped up and opened the files fine. Im glad I was able to get those bent pins fixed. I will post some pics of my rig later tonight. Im still waiting for my monitor (BenQ XL2420T) - should be here by the end of the week, then I'm ready to go! Thanks again for all of your Help Hanoverfist


----------



## Xavin83

What temps do you guys get on the motherboard?
I think my sensor is busted, ive seen it at 28c and it never goes above 30c.


----------



## KMixson

Mine runs about 32c at idle.


----------



## asuman1179

I am seeing around 35c MotherBoard Sensor and it has been on for a few hours.


----------



## gtrain01

Hey all,

new to this forum.

Quick question, i recently purcahsed a new Asus Sabertooth Z77 and i5-3570K as was looking forward to some decent o/c. I purchaed a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU fan to go with it all.

However in the bios settings, I seem unable to get past the 34 CPU Ratio at all.... when i check in the bios under the CPU Ratio Range it is indicated at 16-34? Is this an issue with being supplied a faulty CPU or Mobo?

Or is it, because i haven't played with OC for a while?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks all.


----------



## kizwan

CPU Ratio is for changing the non-turbo multiplier. The i5-3570K non-turbo/normal frequency is 3.4GHz; that is why the range only go up to x34. For overclock, you should set Turbo Ratio in AI Tweaker section.


----------



## gtrain01

Haha wow.... i feel pretty stupid right now.

Thanks for the heads up, i modified my settings in the AI tweaker....

did a quick 10min prime95 test and it seems stable at 4.5Ghz. I'm going to let it run overnight and see how it goes!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtrain01*
> 
> Haha wow.... i feel pretty stupid right now.


Never Hurts to Ask


----------



## Edb007th

4.5 on air cooling? Dayum, I better put my big boy panties on and turn it up a notch. I was happy with 4.1 (for a new jack overclock) using an h100. Hanover, what do you think might be a safe number? What's the worst that can happen, she shuts down? Y


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> 4.5 on air cooling? Dayum, I better put my big boy panties on and turn it up a notch. I was happy with 4.1 (for a new jack overclock) using an h100. Hanover, what do you think might be a safe number? What's the worst that can happen, she shuts down? Y


It would just start to Thermal Throttle at a 105C.. H100 and a ,,I assume you have a 3570k? Golden temps with that setup.. Just get your voltage offset right. You have the cooling to easy hit 4.5


----------



## pbebeto

i want some help, i bought the sabertooth but wont boot. i put everything right ( psu , memory , vga ) and nothing appears at the video.

On the motherboard everytime you start the VGA RED LED appears, just them.

the cpu and memory led never appears just for a moment and then VGA RED LED comes.

does anybody know whats is this problem???

ps : i already tested a other memory kit and the same happening .

sorry my english iam from brazil ehehehe thanks

my pc : 2 x 4gb gskill sniper 1600mhz / i5 3570k / corsair ax 850w / msi gtx 680 lightning / 1tb sata 3 seagate / ssd 120 and 60 agility 3 ocz / ssd vertex 3 ocz /


----------



## kizwan

Did you try boot without VGA card (msi gtx 680)?


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbebeto*
> 
> i want some help, i bought the sabertooth but wont boot. i put everything right ( psu , memory , vga ) and nothing appears at the video.
> 
> On the motherboard everytime you start the VGA RED LED appears, just them.
> 
> the cpu and memory led never appears just for a moment and then VGA RED LED comes.
> 
> does anybody know whats is this problem???
> 
> ps : i already tested a other memory kit and the same happening .
> 
> sorry my english iam from brazil ehehehe thanks
> 
> my pc : 2 x 4gb gskill sniper 1600mhz / i5 3570k / corsair ax 850w / msi gtx 680 lightning / 1tb sata 3 seagate / ssd 120 and 60 agility 3 ocz / ssd vertex 3 ocz /


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you try boot without VGA card (msi gtx 680)?


Unless he is running a HDMI from MB with the IB 4000 enabled, it won't help.

@ pbebeto, try the above if you have HDMI capability, If not, try to reseat your GPU. Make sure first to try the top PCIe slot if you have not done so already. Reset MB if and reset memory on the MB if you haven't already. If this has not worked, you may need to try the GPU on another PC. If you can't, I'm leaning towards a bad GPU. If you test it on another PC and it works, then I would lean towards the MB having problems. Hope this helps.









EDIT: I would have mentioned turning the PSU all the way off,, the power switch until the green light on the MB goes off and then restart. But, I say this because sometimes my PC won't start with the red light on with the Sabertooth by the GPU. However, I don't see this being your problem. Because when my system hangs it's not because my screen stays blank. I actually see a motherboard logo and bios process. If you see nothing you don't have this problem.


----------



## gtrain01

yeh it was pretty easy to achieve.... just notched up the voltage a little bit.... after a 12hr priming session, the temps were around 74

so i'm happy with 4.5 for now... might push it a little later on.

but i'm running a 7950 and got that to 1050/1350 as well, working alright for now


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbebeto*
> 
> i want some help, i bought the sabertooth but wont boot. i put everything right ( psu , memory , vga ) and nothing appears at the video.
> On the motherboard everytime you start the VGA RED LED appears, just them.
> the cpu and memory led never appears just for a moment and then VGA RED LED comes.
> does anybody know whats is this problem???
> ps : i already tested a other memory kit and the same happening .
> sorry my english iam from brazil ehehehe thanks
> my pc : 2 x 4gb gskill sniper 1600mhz / i5 3570k / corsair ax 850w / msi gtx 680 lightning / 1tb sata 3 seagate / ssd 120 and 60 agility 3 ocz / ssd vertex 3 ocz /


You should probably update your BIOS to 1504. There is a fix in new BIOS for 680 hanging on boot. It is quite easy to do if you have a USB stick. Download the 1504 BIOS from asus site. Extract the file to the root of your usb drive. Rename the file Z77ST.CAP WITH ONLY POWER TO THE BOARD SUPPLIED WITHOUT BOOTING THE SYSTEM.. follow usb flashback method in the manual page 2-43.


----------



## pbebeto

yes i did this when anything appears on the monitor , i took the hdmi cable and connected on the onboard hdmi and stays equal . =/

thanks very much the attention


----------



## pbebeto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you try boot without VGA card (msi gtx 680)?


yes i did this when anything appears on the monitor , i took the hdmi cable and connected on the onboard hdmi and stays equal . =/

thanks very much the attention


----------



## pbebeto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> Unless he is running a HDMI from MB with the IB 4000 enabled, it won't help.
> @ pbebeto, try the above if you have HDMI capability, If not, try to reseat your GPU. Make sure first to try the top PCIe slot if you have not done so already. Reset MB if and reset memory on the MB if you haven't already. If this has not worked, you may need to try the GPU on another PC. If you can't, I'm leaning towards a bad GPU. If you test it on another PC and it works, then I would lean towards the MB having problems. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I would have mentioned turning the PSU all the way off,, the power switch until the green light on the MB goes off and then restart. But, I say this because sometimes my PC won't start with the red light on with the Sabertooth by the GPU. However, I don't see this being your problem. Because when my system hangs it's not because my screen stays blank. I actually see a motherboard logo and bios process. If you see nothing you don't have this problem.


i tried everything include putting de vga on others pci-e and anything happening . i use the onboard to use de hd 4000 video but anything happening. i can do everything and the VGA RED LED stays on =/

thanks the atention


----------



## pbebeto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You should probably update your BIOS to 1504. There is a fix in new BIOS for 680 hanging on boot. It is quite easy to do if you have a USB stick. Download the 1504 BIOS from asus site. Extract the file to the root of your usb drive. Rename the file Z77ST.CAP WITH ONLY POWER TO THE BOARD SUPPLIED WITHOUT BOOTING THE SYSTEM.. follow usb flashback method in the manual page 2-43.


i tried this too and stays with the VGA RED LED =///









thanks bro


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbebeto*
> 
> yes i did this when anything appears on the monitor , i took the hdmi cable and connected on the onboard hdmi and stays equal . =/
> thanks very much the attention


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbebeto*
> 
> i tried this too and stays with the VGA RED LED =///
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks bro


RMA


----------



## pbebeto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> RMA


i send to the store and today they are going to test to give me a position . thanks bro


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus84*
> 
> As I mentioned yesterday I wanted to update my BIOS.
> Today I've completed putting the system together.
> I downloaded the 1504 BIOS version, renamed the cap file to Z77ST.CAP, transferred it to my USB 3.0 stick (corsair flash voyager GT 16GB), then inserted it into the proper USB port on the rear I/O panel, pressed the BIOS button, waited till it stopped blinking, removed the USB and booted up...
> But.. it still reads BIOS version 1015 on the main screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BIOS LED blinked for about 1 or 2 mins. then turned into a stable light and the corsair USB stick has its own LED which blinked occasionally during the BIOS LED blinking so it definitly got read from.. according to the manual if the BIOS LED turns into a stable light after blinking for 5 secs. (mine blinked quite a bit longer) it indicates the flashback doesn't work properly due to improper USB connection (stick is seated properly), BIOS file name error (file is named correctly), or an incompatible BIOS file format (still the same ol' .CAP file I downloaded from the ASUS website). also the .CAP file is the only file present on the stick. + the only USB stick I have that's still alive is the corsair one I bought a couple months ago so I can't try another one.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> T.I.A.
> Edit: tried extracting the .CAP file straight to the USB stick and then renaming it : same result.
> Don't know if this is relevant but I have not yet installed windows, simply put everything together, checked to see if the system would POST and if the board recognized all the connected hardware, left all options on default, turned the system off and started the BIOS update.
> The manual mentions the USB flashback at the end of chapter 2 which explains the LED behaviour and once more in the AI suite chapters. Do I need to install windows + the AI software first to get this function to work?


Was the usb stick formatted as Fat32? That was an issue I ran into. Mine was NTFS.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kb58*
> 
> Thermal Radar Fan Bug?
> Before and after building my system I've been doing a lot of reading - but haven't seen this bug mentioned.
> Set the system up and it's running great, and to quiet the fans a bit more I loaded Asus's Ai Suite so I could use Thermal Radar. It's an awesome tool but appears to have introduced an annoying problem. Randomly, the fan LEDs (and I suspect, the fans themselves) turn off. It's never for very long, like maybe half a second. Nothing seems to induce it to happen, it "just does."
> Also, sometime later after installing it and setting up custom fan speeds, I noticed that one fan speed was listed in red, denoting that it was dangerously slow. Went in and checked its graph, and just as I clicked on one of the curve's data points, its speed magically returned to normal.
> Anyone else seen this? I've seen a few posts saying that their Ai Suite is buggy, but haven't seen mention of a bug that causes the fans to randomly turn off. The worst case would be to walk out of the room only to have it turn off *all* the fans... that would be very very bad. Since cooling air is the lifeblood of our PCs, I can't risk killing my 3770K processor due to buggy code - a shame, as it could be a great app.
> I don't think it's a hardware problem because if I uninstall Thermal Radar the fans then work fine...


I noticed that my fans would throw up a low rpm thing here and there as well, but I never noticed LEDs turning off because this build doesn't have any. Might be worth sending an email to them, or do what I did and get a NZXT Sentry Mesh controller for $24. (amazon or newegg) To add, I never noticed the rpms slowing either. It seemed like it was just buggy software.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kb58*
> 
> Over the last couple of weeks I've read through this entire thread, but haven't come across the following.
> I started out thinking that I wanted an SSD for programs, and two harddrives for user stuff configured as RAID 1 (mirrored.) Unfortunately it didn't seem possible to run both the SSD and both harddrives on SATA III (6 Gb/sec.) Eventually I gave up on using RAID and instead plan to use Window's scheduled backup to save my stuff from one harddrive to the other.
> Up until yesterday I had the system set up as follows, which lets all my stuff run at 6 Gb/sec:
> Intel SATA III
> - SSD
> - CD drive
> ASMedia SATA III
> - Harddrive 1
> - Harddrive 2
> Yesterday I spent hours moving files over from my old PC to this new one, most via the network, and it went fine. Later I was transferring more files over and ran into the following. I had a 6 GB file on one of the harddrives and was shuffling files around, and at one point copied it, with the intent of renaming it. It got 5 GB through the tranfer and then locked up the entire PC hard - nothing worked, mouse, CTRL-ALT-DEL, nothing. I had to hard-reset the machine, noting the warning that "windows didn't shut down correctly." I deleted the partial copy tried again - same exact thing happened again. Just for fun I tried it a third time - same thing.
> The ASMedia drivers on the web are June 2012 so I have the latest, so that's not it. Since I figure no one's going to know what's causing this, I decided to go around the problem this way:
> Intel SATA III
> - SSD
> - Harddrive 1
> Intel SATA II
> - Harddrive 2
> ASMedia SATA III
> - CD drive (we'll see if it plays nice with this port)
> The thinking is that since the scheduled backup works in the background, the slower speed of the backup drive won't be an issue. I'm just posting this as an FYI in case you run into the same thing.


So wait, you setup a raid 1 in windows with 1 drive on Sata III and the other on Sata II ? I think that would create some issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus84*
> 
> Btw, is there any stuff in the software package you guys would recommend not installing?
> I don't plan on using any of the ASmedia SATA and USB features for example, will I run into problems by not installing those drivers?
> I'm also wondering if I should install the Intel Rapid Storage Tech driver, I plan on keeping my drives in AHCI mode and the only benefit the driver seems to offer for that mode is Native Command Queuing but I'm unable to determine if the WD caviar black HDD supports that function.. one site says it does, the other says it doesn't


You have to install the ASmedia sata and usb drivers if you intend on using those ports. I would install the RST over the default microsoft ones. They bumped up my write speeds on my Sata 6.0 Samsung 830 256 ssd quite a bit.


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pbebeto*
> 
> i want some help, i bought the sabertooth but wont boot. i put everything right ( psu , memory , vga ) and nothing appears at the video.
> On the motherboard everytime you start the VGA RED LED appears, just them.
> the cpu and memory led never appears just for a moment and then VGA RED LED comes.
> does anybody know whats is this problem???
> ps : i already tested a other memory kit and the same happening .
> sorry my english iam from brazil ehehehe thanks
> my pc : 2 x 4gb gskill sniper 1600mhz / i5 3570k / corsair ax 850w / msi gtx 680 lightning / 1tb sata 3 seagate / ssd 120 and 60 agility 3 ocz / ssd vertex 3 ocz /


Check my previous posts.
Try removing your video card and use the onboard video, then put your 2 ram sticks in the slots B1 and B2 and see if it boots, if so, then update the bios and problem solved, you can go back to A2, B2 for dual-channel configuration.
Remember that by using bios flashback, the bios update won't be applied until your computer can boot.


----------



## pbebeto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Check my previous posts.
> Try removing your video card and use the onboard video, then put your 2 ram sticks in the slots B1 and B2 and see if it boots, if so, then update the bios and problem solved, you can go back to A2, B2 for dual-channel configuration.
> Remember that by using bios flashback, the bios update won't be applied until your computer can boot.


hey bro i already did this too =/ and nothing happening =/// thanks the attention


----------



## leylek

try thermal radar software for sabertooth. you can control fan speeds of all fans connected to the sabertooth by temprature-fanspeed graph that you optimize. when it gets hotter inside the case fans work faster, and work slower when gets colder.


----------



## Camay

Firstly i'll start with my specs:

Sabertooth z77 Intel i5 3570k Corsair TX650 PSU Radeon HD 6870 Corsair Obsidian 650d Corsair Vengeance 1866mhz RAM Corsair H80 Watercooling

Problem: I managed to put it all together last night but couldn't start it up what-so-ever, the only light that was showing was a small green LED on the mobo. I eventually gave up for the night after a lot of head scratching and moving cables around. Then this morning i decided to remove anything connecting to my mobo which was my mouse, keyboard, graphics card and ethernet cable. For some reason after removing all this it started up, all the fans began to spin, more lights came on and the watercooling began to function but without having any input to the pc i couldn't find a way to fix the problem. I moved my gpu around into different slots, tried a completely different gpu and even tried using the onboard graphics all to no avail.

I'd appreciate any advice or solutions.

TL;DR new pc won't start with anything plugged into mobo


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camay*
> 
> Firstly i'll start with my specs:
> Sabertooth z77 Intel i5 3570k Corsair TX650 PSU Radeon HD 6870 Corsair Obsidian 650d Corsair Vengeance 1866mhz RAM Corsair H80 Watercooling
> Problem: I managed to put it all together last night but couldn't start it up what-so-ever, the only light that was showing was a small green LED on the mobo. I eventually gave up for the night after a lot of head scratching and moving cables around. Then this morning i decided to remove anything connecting to my mobo which was my mouse, keyboard, graphics card and ethernet cable. For some reason after removing all this it started up, all the fans began to spin, more lights came on and the watercooling began to function but without having any input to the pc i couldn't find a way to fix the problem. I moved my gpu around into different slots, tried a completely different gpu and even tried using the onboard graphics all to no avail.
> I'd appreciate any advice or solutions.
> TL;DR new pc won't start with anything plugged into mobo


You may need to update your BIOS. If you have a usb stick follow the directions for usb flashback method. This is a blind flash and no need for any video display. If you need assistance just ask.. page 2-43 in manual. BIOS 1504 is what you should download.


----------



## Camay

Thanks, i'll give it a try.


----------



## Dee Neyed

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the z77 Sabertooth club







....anyway, just installed everything last night and noticed my BIOS version was 1015. Everything is running fine and I've always been reluctant to upgrade BIOS unless I needed to. With that being said, that damn AI Suite II keeps prompting with an update. I know I can probably disable that, but I was curious if I shouldn't just bump up to 1504? I see that there were some stability improvements with the different versions, but again I'm fine with everything right now. Looking for some input from those who've been a member of the tribe longer than me


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dee Neyed*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> I'm new to the z77 Sabertooth club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....anyway, just installed everything last night and noticed my BIOS version was 1015. Everything is running fine and I've always been reluctant to upgrade BIOS unless I needed to. With that being said, that damn AI Suite II keeps prompting with an update. I know I can probably disable that, but I was curious if I shouldn't just bump up to 1504? I see that there were some stability improvements with the different versions, but again I'm fine with everything right now. Looking for some input from those who've been a member of the tribe longer than me


IMHO dont update unless your trying to solve a Hardware Issue or correct a Board Problem.. Keep it as is.. MY


----------



## Dee Neyed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> IMHO dont update unless your trying to solve a Hardware Issue or correct a Board Problem.. Keep it as is.. MY


Yeah I usually feel the same...thanks for the input


----------



## Clmehnry

My computer boots too fast for me to get into BIOS, i spam delete button after restart but still can't get in

any suggestions?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clmehnry*
> 
> My computer boots too fast for me to get into BIOS, i spam delete button after restart but still can't get in
> any suggestions?


Mine is the same.. when I want in to the BIOS I shut down and then restart. You can get in that way.


----------



## AerieAngel

Just wondering if someone can help. I noticed a few posts in the 254 pages of this thread of the VGA LED illuminated when trying to boot from iGPU. I can only boot with a dedicated GPU. I have no options in BIOS for selecting which graphics to use.
Also, all of my multiplier settings in the BIOS have disappeared. They are completely missing. OC Tuner runs still and Turbo mode functions although you wouldn't know it as there is no feedback in BIOS as to what the settings are. I noticed in some posts here of a stuck multiplier of 35 and I seem to have similar symptoms.
I looked in Turbo V Evo in AI Suite II and I no longer have the CPU tabs to set the multiplier of each core there either. Completely disappeared.

I am running 1504 BIOS and have cleared it, updated it through AI Suite, updated through EZ Flash in BIOS, no effect. Reverted to 14xx BIOS... no effect. Upgraded back to 1504... no effect.

I have tried another CPU and no luck... no effect. I have tried different RAM... no effect. I already RMA-ed the board once, but received it back with no indication of anything was repaired on it. No notes, nothing. I'm not sure how this issue could be missed with even standard testing of the board. I have already applied for another RMA, but I just don't know what to do from here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Just wondering if someone can help. I noticed a few posts in the 254 pages of this thread of the VGA LED illuminated when trying to boot from iGPU. I can only boot with a dedicated GPU. I have no options in BIOS for selecting which graphics to use.
> Also, all of my multiplier settings in the BIOS have disappeared. They are completely missing. OC Tuner runs still and Turbo mode functions although you wouldn't know it as there is no feedback in BIOS as to what the settings are. I noticed in some posts here of a stuck multiplier of 35 and I seem to have similar symptoms.
> I looked in Turbo V Evo in AI Suite II and I no longer have the CPU tabs to set the multiplier of each core there either. Completely disappeared.
> I am running 1504 BIOS and have cleared it, updated it through AI Suite, updated through EZ Flash in BIOS, no effect. Reverted to 14xx BIOS... no effect. Upgraded back to 1504... no effect.
> I have tried another CPU and no luck... no effect. I have tried different RAM... no effect. I already RMA-ed the board once, but received it back with no indication of anything was repaired on it. No notes, nothing. I'm not sure how this issue could be missed with even standard testing of the board. I have already applied for another RMA, but I just don't know what to do from here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


You have only one option at this point ..Rma again. In a properly functioning board the display is automatically detected. Whether using igpu or discrete card. That setting is available in BIOS 1504 in advanced tab. Primary Display. It's set to auto by default and I have tested it. You need to rma again. There is a Asus rep on this site you can contact. Just have to find the link.

Here he is . http://www.overclock.net/t/1281274/new-member-customer-loyalty-team-for-asus


----------



## Cowboy10uk

Hi all, I've posted a similar question over in the intel board, but since you all have the sabertooth Z77 maybe you can help.

I'm trying to overclock my I5 3570K to 4.5Ghz.

I've updated Bios to 1506 x64

However it seems that it dosnt matter if I use OC tuner or change the ratio settings by hand, the chip just sits at 3.40ghz, almost as if it's locked.

The settings change in the bios, I.E. the show the new settings in he menu, but the chip dosnt do a thing.

Could someone please point me where I'm going wrong.

I've used OC Tuner, that didn't work, so then set the following by hand.

I've changed CPU ratio to 45

And mem to ddr3 1600mhz

Everything else is on auto

Hope to hear from u soon

Cowboy10uk


----------



## kizwan

CPU Ratio is not the right place. You should set multiplier at Turbo Ratio under Ai Tweaker.


----------



## Cowboy10uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> CPU Ratio is not the right place. You should set multiplier at Turbo Ratio under Ai Tweaker.


Tried that as well. Still no go.

Is there a way I can reload an older bios to see if that's the issue?


----------



## Socks keep you warm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dee Neyed*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> I'm new to the z77 Sabertooth club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....anyway, just installed everything last night and noticed my BIOS version was 1015. Everything is running fine and I've always been reluctant to upgrade BIOS unless I needed to. With that being said, that damn AI Suite II keeps prompting with an update. I know I can probably disable that, but I was curious if I shouldn't just bump up to 1504? I see that there were some stability improvements with the different versions, but again I'm fine with everything right now. Looking for some input from those who've been a member of the tribe longer than me


Use the ASUS program through Windows, takes 2 seconds and its safe








Everybody needs to realise that there were a lot of problems flashing bios files back in the day now it is a fail safe system with buttons on the backplate to reset etc...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cowboy10uk*
> 
> Tried that as well. Still no go.
> 
> Is there a way I can reload an older bios to see if that's the issue?


Try reset BIOS settings by removing the coin battery on the motherboard. Removed it for 10 seconds then put it back. Try overclock again.


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi all a friend of mine made me a sabertooth skin for EVGA Precision X

And i would like to share it with you guys

if you like it your wellcome to use it.

here is a pic and downlad link



https://rapidshare.com/files/2312665464/SaberSkin.usf


----------



## Cowboy10uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Try reset BIOS settings by removing the coin battery on the motherboard. Removed it for 10 seconds then put it back. Try overclock again.


Ok Thanks for that advice, I've managed to put the Bios back to 1403, to see if that makes a difference. Sadly I have had to go to work before I could test it.

If not, then I'll try taking the battery out. I'm guessing i need to take the armor off to access it correct.


----------



## cwaters425

Here is my build:




































I cut out the front 200mm grill and also took out the stock fan and replaced it with a 200mm spectre pro









I cut out the grills unoder the noctua fans so they would get better airflow to my h100 cooler









cable management. Could have done better, but at this point i had taken everything apart 2 times because of a few issues i had, so i rushed to get the cables tied up



















Everything is ready, just waiting for my BenQ XL2420T, which should arrive on Tuesday (9/11/12)

Specs:

Corsair 600T SE White
EVGA GTX 680 SC Signature
Asus Sabertooth Z77 motherboard
Intel i5 3570k processor
Corsair H100 CPU cooler
16Gb Corsair 1600mhz DDR3
Corsair 120GB Force 3 SSD
200mm Spectre Pro intake
(2) Noctua NF-F12 intake for H100
120mm spectre profor exhaust

Thanks,
Chris


----------



## navit

Nice, I like it


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cowboy10uk*
> 
> Hi all, I've posted a similar question over in the intel board, but since you all have the sabertooth Z77 maybe you can help.
> I'm trying to overclock my I5 3570K to 4.5Ghz.
> I've updated Bios to 1506 x64
> However it seems that it dosnt matter if I use OC tuner or change the ratio settings by hand, the chip just sits at 3.40ghz, almost as if it's locked.
> The settings change in the bios, I.E. the show the new settings in he menu, but the chip dosnt do a thing.
> Could someone please point me where I'm going wrong.
> I've used OC Tuner, that didn't work, so then set the following by hand.
> I've changed CPU ratio to 45
> And mem to ddr3 1600mhz
> Everything else is on auto
> Hope to hear from u soon
> Cowboy10uk


Hi Cowboy10uk,

Here are my bios settings for 4.5

Note the offset needs to be to 0.025 not the 0.005 it is showing in these pics.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1460#post_17709505


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cowboy10uk*
> 
> Ok Thanks for that advice, I've managed to put the Bios back to 1403, to see if that makes a difference. Sadly I have had to go to work before I could test it.
> If not, then I'll try taking the battery out. I'm guessing i need to take the armor off to access it correct.


You would have to take the Armor Off.. But before you do that have you tried clearing the CMOS with the JUMPER


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Corsair 600T SE White
> EVGA GTX 680
> Asus Sabertooth Z77 motherboard
> Intel i5 3570k processor
> Corsair H100 CPU cooler
> 16Gb Corsair 1600mhz DDR3
> Corsair 120GB Force 3 SSD
> 200mm Spectre Pro intake
> (2) Noctua NF-F12 intake for H100
> 120mm spectre profor exhaust


Unfortunately there is limited possibility of mounting the fans below the radiator. I have the same setup with the same mobo, case, and H100. Do you have the top Noctua fans as intake or exhaust? Have you noticed any difference? What is your opinion? Thanks...


----------



## cwaters425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Unfortunately there is limited possibility of mounting the fans below the radiator. I have the same setup with the same mobo, case, and H100. Do you have the top Noctua fans as intake or exhaust? Have you noticed any difference? What is your opinion? Thanks...


I have mine as intakes pulling cold air in over the h100 rad. I didn't try to use them as exhausts, I had always planned them for intakes


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dee Neyed*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> I'm new to the z77 Sabertooth club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....anyway, just installed everything last night and noticed my BIOS version was 1015. Everything is running fine and I've always been reluctant to upgrade BIOS unless I needed to. With that being said, that damn AI Suite II keeps prompting with an update. I know I can probably disable that, but I was curious if I shouldn't just bump up to 1504? I see that there were some stability improvements with the different versions, but again I'm fine with everything right now. Looking for some input from those who've been a member of the tribe longer than me


If you are planning on using Windows 8 then I recommend upgrading to 1504. I will say though that ASUS cheats a bit on their BIOS upgrades... most likely to retain BIOS flashback functionality, but this isn't always good. When flashing the BIOS through any of the 3 methods provided by ASUS (AI Suite II, EZ Flash, BIOS flashback) the BIOS is simply written as an "in-place upgrade." This usually does not cause problems and like I said retains low level functionality in case something goes wrong, but it can cause weird BIOS issues.







If you are adventurous and for anyone else having problems with this board that you can not solve I recommend a low level erase of the BIOS and a completely fresh install of 1504, but know that if you do this and something goes wrong you won't be able to recover the BIOS without removing the chip and having it reprogrammed manually.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You have only one option at this point ..Rma again. In a properly functioning board the display is automatically detected. Whether using igpu or discrete card. That setting is available in BIOS 1504 in advanced tab. Primary Display. It's set to auto by default and I have tested it. You need to rma again. There is a Asus rep on this site you can contact. Just have to find the link.
> Here he is . http://www.overclock.net/t/1281274/new-member-customer-loyalty-team-for-asus


Thank you so much for replying. I also sent an email to cl-jeffrey in the link you posted. I have good news! I have solved my problem. I did a complete wipe of the BIOS chip and then wrote 1504 to it first doing the main BIOS Image blocks, then the Boot blocks. Profit.









I now have multiplier settings _and_ iGPU settings available in both BIOS and Turbo V Evo.

Wipe BIOS chip and write data blocks to a fresh chip
HOW TO:
For ASUS Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard only. Do not attempt to use these instructions with another board. I have no experience in doing so and can not guarantee these instructions to be accurate for that. In other words, this is a Sabertooth Z77 thread and the solution is only listed here for the AMI BIOS on that board.








*WARNING: This can render your ASUS Sabertooth Z77 motherboard inoperable and unserviceable by you if the BIOS chip fails to rewrite all of the data or anything else goes wrong. Do this at your own risk. BIOS flashback will not be able to recover this if something goes wrong. You have been warned.*

Use American Megatrends' AMIflash Utility
http://goo.gl/6dbsB
Unpack zip files, pick the appropriatexx folder, where xx is 32 or 64 bit
CLOSE ALL PROGRAMS!!!!!!
Run amiflash\Aptio\AFUWin\xx\afuwinxx\afuwingui.exe
Click Setup TAB
Optional but Recommended: Click Save BUTTON to backup your current BIOS. Save that file to an external source
Click Open BUTTON
Select previously downloaded 1504 BIOS CAP file from Asus support website
Check "Program All Blocks" checkbox
Click Flash BUTTON
Click Windows Start Menu and "Shutdown" NOT REBOOT
Make sure computer shuts down.
Press power button to turn on computer
Wait... computer will shutdown after 1 second of turning on and then reboot again... just let it do it's thing.
Don't touch anything, don't try to enter BIOS, don't do anything til you are at the windows login screen or desktop
Profit


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi all a friend of mine made me a sabertooth skin for EVGA Precision X
> And i would like to share it with you guys
> if you like it your wellcome to use it.
> here is a pic and downlad link
> 
> https://rapidshare.com/files/2312665464/SaberSkin.usf


Thanks Bro.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi all a friend of mine made me a sabertooth skin for EVGA Precision X
> And i would like to share it with you guys
> if you like it your wellcome to use it.
> here is a pic and downlad link
> 
> https://rapidshare.com/files/2312665464/SaberSkin.usf


Thank you so much! It is nice.


----------



## Cowboy10uk

Code:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You would have to take the Armor Off.. But before you do that have you tried clearing the CMOS with the JUMPER


Yep tried that several times, resets my settings although Not the time and date. Yet still the bios won't change the clock speed, it shows on the yellow writing at top of AI Tweaker as 4500mhz but bios and windows still show chip at 3.40ghz,

Beginning to think I've been screwed.

So I guess next is to remove battery, which means dismantling the whole build, pulling the CPU cooler, graphics card, cabling and removing the board, just to get at the damn screws.

Sorry asus I love the look of the board, but that is some piss poor design right there. Right not a simple access port you can unscrew above the battery.

I really have no idea what's going on, everyone is saying how easy this board is to overclock, yet mine just sits there and does sod all.

The whole idea of buying this board and 3570k was to overclock it to 4.5

Damn I knew I should have spent extra and bought a overclocked setup.


----------



## Cowboy10uk

It's Alive, went through and re did all the checks once again, however this time it worked. Thanks for all the advice guys, it really helped.

Currently running at 4.5Ghz at 1.296v, running prime 95 while at work to check stability and temps. So long as it passes, will then start lowing voltage to find the limit. As although it's under 3, I'm guessing 1.296 is on the high side.

Don't want to cook the damn thing.

Thanks again everyone.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cowboy10uk*
> 
> It's Alive, went through and re did all the checks once again, however this time it worked. Thanks for all the advice guys, it really helped.
> Currently running at 4.5Ghz at 1.296v, running prime 95 while at work to check stability and temps. So long as it passes, will then start lowing voltage to find the limit. As although it's under 3, I'm guessing 1.296 is on the high side.
> Don't want to cook the damn thing.
> Thanks again everyone.


Great to hear,









Did you use the offset method to overclock ?


----------



## Cowboy10uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Great to hear,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you use the offset method to overclock ?


No idea









Set offset to manual and typed in the Voltage I wanted then just lowered it until it started crashing and then added one more to stabilise.
Now got it running stable at 1.275 which I'm quite happy with. Apart from setting that to manual, set turbo ratio to 45 on all cores. Everything else I left at Auto.

I know that dosnt help. But I really don't have a clue when it comes to overclocking, but hey at least it works right.


----------



## Trip99

Anyone know what the motherboard battery is? I think I need to replace mine but dont want to take the thermal armour off twice


----------



## falcon2099

Unless I'm mistaken most (if not all) CMOS batteries are CR2032


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> Anyone know what the motherboard battery is? I think I need to replace mine but dont want to take the thermal armour off twice


What Kind of Issues are you Having?


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You may need to update your BIOS. If you have a usb stick follow the directions for usb flashback method. This is a blind flash and no need for any video display. If you need assistance just ask.. page 2-43 in manual. BIOS 1504 is what you should download.


How long is the updating through the USB should take. Because I need to update myself.


----------



## kb58

Add me to the list of people who've had enough of the tiny board-cooling fans. Those little things - while not especially loud - have a REALLY annoying whine to them. When I first got my system running about 10 days ago they weren't that noticable, but slowly started getting louder over time. Fortunately the motherboard doesn't seem to requirement them, so they were unplugged (could have also set them to "off" in the BIOS.)


----------



## Chatopex

Problems with 1504 BIOS.... I can't overcloclock my I5 3575K.
Only let me put on Turbo mode at 3.8
But if I put at 4.2 it's freeeeezeeeeee the entire PC.
Help


----------



## kb58

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> How long is the updating through the USB should take. Because I need to update myself.


Two, maybe three minutes or so.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> How long is the updating through the USB should take. Because I need to update myself.


Once your setup and press the button it takes maybe a minute. Quick and painless.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chatopex*
> 
> Problems with 1504 BIOS.... I can't overcloclock my I5 3575K.
> Only let me put on Turbo mode at 3.8
> But if I put at 4.2 it's freeeeezeeeeee the entire PC.
> Help


If you use the search function for this thread there has been several posts that actually show the BIOS screen shots of guys with 3570k and there exact overclocking BIOS settings


----------



## Strarompi

This is my configuration:

CPU: i5-3570K a 2884mhz
Fan: CM Hyper 212 Plus
MB: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
Ram: 8GB Geil Corsa Evo 1866mhz
GPU1: Radeon HD 6870 Vapor-x
GPU2: Radeon HD 6870 Vapor-x
HD: SSD Vertex 3 128GB
SO: Windows 8 N 64bit

I'v 2 kind of problem,

first CPU Fan run under 600 rpm, goes to 1200 fpm only if the connect to CPU_FAN (always in idle mode)

second after installing windows 8 N I tried to update the bios, starting from 1504, of course, but the pc after a certain number of seconds it freezes (seems to be a problem with the usb, booting without mouse no problem, but obviously it is unusable)
then up to 1403, same problem, now with version 1304 and yesterday windows had again problems with the USB drivers, reboot and reinstallation of the drivers.
Does anyone know if it is a problem of W8 or is my MB to have problems?

now I try to keep the ram at 1600 mhz and put the auto tuning on the processor so you do not overclock anything, say that this may be the problem?


----------



## 10pmstalker

Is anyone getting a zoomed in bios? Im on 1504 and I can only see about half of the bios. I can only see it when im hooked up with a VGA cable.


----------



## Trip99

Thanks Falcon


----------



## Trip99

Hanover: my issues are that if power is cut to the machine I lose my date and time settings and bios settings.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> Hanover: my issues are that if power is cut to the machine I lose my date and time settings and bios settings.


That definitely puts the Battery as a suspect then..


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chatopex*
> 
> Problems with 1504 BIOS.... I can't overcloclock my I5 3575K.
> Only let me put on Turbo mode at 3.8
> But if I put at 4.2 it's freeeeezeeeeee the entire PC.
> Help


Same here. I Updated the Latest BIOS last night & I do have a little more stability then before. but then it crashed. I finally got up to 4.5 with my 3770K. but it crashes when the voltage get past 1.290. & now my BIOS looks a litte off screen. If anyone has a set BIOS with the Sabertooth Z77 & the 3770k set up.Please let me know. I have some what of an idea,but I need some help on it.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strarompi*
> 
> This is my configuration:
> CPU: i5-3570K a 2884mhz
> Fan: CM Hyper 212 Plus
> MB: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
> Ram: 8GB Geil Corsa Evo 1866mhz
> GPU1: Radeon HD 6870 Vapor-x
> GPU2: Radeon HD 6870 Vapor-x
> HD: SSD Vertex 3 128GB
> SO: Windows 8 N 64bit
> I'v 2 kind of problem,
> first CPU Fan run under 600 rpm, goes to 1200 fpm only if the connect to CPU_FAN (always in idle mode)
> second after installing windows 8 N I tried to update the bios, starting from 1504, of course, but the pc after a certain number of seconds it freezes (seems to be a problem with the usb, booting without mouse no problem, but obviously it is unusable)
> then up to 1403, same problem, now with version 1304 and yesterday windows had again problems with the USB drivers, reboot and reinstallation of the drivers.
> Does anyone know if it is a problem of W8 or is my MB to have problems?
> now I try to keep the ram at 1600 mhz and put the auto tuning on the processor so you do not overclock anything, say that this may be the problem?


If you want the CPU fan to RUN at 100% all the time , disable the Q-fan feature in the BIOS section Monitor... Page 3-33 of your manual...If you would like the PWM feature to cycle RPM based on socket temp then try raising your CPU fan MIN Duty cycle and Lowering your MAX Duty cycle. OR Play with the CPU fan profile settings.. try turbo..
As for WIN 8 , I have no experience with it. I assume you have loaded the USB drivers from either the supplied CD or Downloaded them from the ASUS site.


----------



## Hanoverfist

I am posting my 1504 BIOS for a 4.5 overclock on 3770k again.. Completely Stable.. These Settings Translate to an Idle Voltage of .98v and a Loaded Voltage of 1.28v Please disregard the Dram settings unless your using a 16gb PC2133 KIT.


----------



## Chatopex

True.
Thanks!


----------



## SLADEizGOD

I have a question. Has anybody experience this before? a -1c on the Mboard?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I have a question. Has anybody experience this before? a -1c on the Mboard?


Faulty temperature sensor.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

+Rep thank you


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> +Rep thank you


I will say that you should check the BIOS temp sensor reading. It could indeed be the AI Suite 2 / Thermal Radar software. Chances are though it is a faulty sensor. I've seen this before. Unfortunately, though it is neat, the temp sensors are integrated into the board.... so it isn't something you can replace.


----------



## Davitz

Alright so my first board arrived doa, second board died after a day and took both my gtx 680's with it. My tech friends thinks my hx750 has gone bad and is frying the components.

I have a brand new ax1200i sitting at home i was gonna toss in there anyways so hopefully it was the psu that was killing my sabertoohs


----------



## Strarompi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If you want the CPU fan to RUN at 100% all the time , disable the Q-fan feature in the BIOS section Monitor... Page 3-33 of your manual...If you would like the PWM feature to cycle RPM based on socket temp then try raising your CPU fan MIN Duty cycle and Lowering your MAX Duty cycle. OR Play with the CPU fan profile settings.. try turbo..
> As for WIN 8 , I have no experience with it. I assume you have loaded the USB drivers from either the supplied CD or Downloaded them from the ASUS site.


Thanks for the suggestions, the cpu fan now runs constantly at 1400 rpm and the CPU temperature did not exceed 39 ° in 2 hours of intense game of GuildWars2,
I updated the bios back to version 1504 and I think I know the problem, the ram overclocking, or rather, the ram is Geil Corsa Evo 1866, by default however, it is recognized at 1600,
if imposed on the frequency 1866 generates problems, freezes in the bios screen and in windows


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strarompi*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions, the cpu fan now runs constantly at 1400 rpm and the CPU temperature did not exceed 39 ° in 2 hours of intense game of GuildWars2,
> I updated the bios back to version 1504 and I think I know the problem, the ram overclocking, or rather, the ram is Geil Corsa Evo 1866, by default however, it is recognized at 1600,
> if imposed on the frequency 1866 generates problems, freezes in the bios screen and in windows


It may need a bump in Dram Voltage to be stable a 1866mhz. Slowly increase to test that theory if you want.


----------



## glenneh

Hi All,

My 1st post, and a new Sabertooth owner.

First, thanks to everyone on this thread who posted such helpful replies and advice - I read all 259 pages and it helped me immensely in getting my build working and oc'd to 4.5 on air (stable for 18hrs, 1.304v max).

One of my small assist fans (the one I have installed on the rear of the mb) is DOA. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a suitable and quiet replacement? Maybe a 40mm fan?

Thanks for everything!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenneh*
> 
> Hi All,
> My 1st post, and a new Sabertooth owner.
> First, thanks to everyone on this thread who posted such helpful replies and advice - I read all 259 pages and it helped me immensely in getting my build working and oc'd to 4.5 on air (stable for 18hrs, 1.304v max).
> One of my small assist fans (the one I have installed on the rear of the mb) is DOA. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a suitable and quiet replacement? Maybe a 40mm fan?
> Thanks for everything!


Welcome aboard...







They are 35mm x 10mm a 40mm probably wont fit the armor.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c15/s1376/list/p1/Fans-12_Volt_Fans-35mm_x_10mm_Fans-Page1.html

or call asus and tell them about the DOA
or Email this guy.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1281274/new-member-customer-loyalty-team-for-asus#post_17692799


----------



## glenneh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Welcome aboard...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are 35mm x 10mm a 40mm probably wont fit the armor.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c15/s1376/list/p1/Fans-12_Volt_Fans-35mm_x_10mm_Fans-Page1.html
> or call asus and tell them about the DOA
> or Email this guy.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1281274/new-member-customer-loyalty-team-for-asus#post_17692799


Thanks! I emailed him. Certainly don't want to return the board so we'll see.

I'll read again but I could have sworn that the rear slot could/would accommodate a 40mm fan... didn't they include a spare, different cover?

As an aside - thanks for all your posts. Yours were very useful and I ended-up copying many of your settings.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenneh*
> 
> Thanks! I emailed him. Certainly don't want to return the board so we'll see.
> I'll read again but I could have sworn that the rear slot could/would accommodate a 40mm fan... didn't they include a spare, different cover?
> As an aside - thanks for all your posts. Yours were very useful and I ended-up copying many of your settings.


I received an extra cover to install a 40mm fan in the Rear I/O sheild. You should've too.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I received an extra cover to install a 40mm fan in the Rear I/O sheild. You should've too.


Ah.. I just found that cover.. So indeed it will accommodate a 40mm. Nice


----------



## Zantrill

So I installed a GTX-680 today. Bios boot up still says pcie 2.0. I looked all around in the bios and can't find anything in there for graphics... all CPU stuff.?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> So I installed a GTX-680 today. Bios boot up still says pcie 2.0. I looked all around in the bios and can't find anything in there for graphics... all CPU stuff.?


For the life of me I can't remember exactly where its located but it's in the area of the iGPU where PCIe lanes are shown in the UFEI. The choices are - AUTO GEN2 or GEN3. I forced GEN3.

Have same ASUS Sabertooth Z77.


----------



## Zantrill

that's just it... I can't seem to find that.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> that's just it... I can't seem to find that.


ON UEFI

under the Advanced Tab

it was something like System Agent Configuration or something like that


----------



## Arizonian

I'll find it tonight after work if someone doesn't tell you first.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> that's just it... I can't seem to find that.


----------



## Zantrill

Thanks guys... I'll have a look real quick. brb


----------



## Zantrill

ok, found it... set it to Gen 3.

Checked it twice and in the bios it is set to Gen 3 but when going through the boot process.. still says Gen 2?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> ok, found it... set it to Gen 3.
> Checked it twice and in the bios it is set to Gen 3 but when going through the boot process.. still says Gen 2?


GPU z reports this as PCI 2.0 aswell?? under BUS INTERFACE.... your bios is 1504?


----------



## Zantrill




----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like your running GEN 3 to me from that shot..


----------



## Zeromi

Yep, good news Zantrill! Your 680 is running on PCIe 3.0!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*


In the bus interface field:-

*PCI-E 3.0 x16* is the link capability
*@ x16 1.1* is the *negotiated link* which means your card is actually running at PCI-E 1.1, not PCI-E 3.0.
This is expected when GPU is idling (in power saving mode). Put load to GPU, for example click the "*?*" button next to it & run the built-in render. This way GPU-Z will show the "actual" *negotiated link* when under load.


----------



## Zantrill

Ahhh... thanks!


----------



## Valek

Hi everyone,

First time posting and so excited with my new build. After reading and reading I decided to take the plunge into the OC realm and I'm now the proud owner of the sabretooth z77 along with an i7 3770k. I'm ready to start the fun now but before I begin I want to thank y'all for all the wisdom and help you guys give, wish me luck!









Pics of my new toys:









If ya wandering whats up with the christmas lights its because I'm in the process of changing from AMD to Intel/Nvidia


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valek*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> First time posting and so excited with my new build. After reading and reading I decided to take the plunge into the OC realm and I'm now the proud owner of the sabretooth z77 along with an i7 3770k. I'm ready to start the fun now but before I begin I want to thank y'all for all the wisdom and help you guys give, wish me luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of my new toys:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If ya wandering whats up with the christmas lights its because I'm in the process of changing from AMD to Intel/Nvidia


Hi Valek, Welcome to OCN. Nice looking build you got going with the Sabertooth Z77 / i7 3770K combo. Your system is very similar to mine. I can over clock my CPU with Corsair H100 to 4.6 GHz @ 1.27v. I'm happy with a stable 31% constant over clock on the CPU.

If you've just purchased your Intel CPU within last 30 days and would like extra over clocking warranty there is an "Performance Tuning Protection Plan by Intel" program that will allow you to over clock your CPU and if you should fry it it within a 3 yrs time they will replace it no questions asked one time. Over clocking for an extra $30 with piece of mind. I'm glad I did it.









If you should have any GPU questionson on that sweet card in your rig







come over the the *GTX 690 Club*.

See ya around the threads.







- "How to put your Rig in your Sig"


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valek*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> First time posting and so excited with my new build. After reading and reading I decided to take the plunge into the OC realm and I'm now the proud owner of the sabretooth z77 along with an i7 3770k. I'm ready to start the fun now but before I begin I want to thank y'all for all the wisdom and help you guys give, wish me luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of my new toys:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If ya wandering whats up with the christmas lights its because I'm in the process of changing from AMD to Intel/Nvidia


Welcome Aboard..


----------



## Valek

Thank you for that.......intel Arizonian!! (no pun intended







) TY Hanover.... I will definately be getting that piece of mind before I play some more with the proc and it sure is worth it to pay for something like that especially a noob like me hehe. I got 4.5 with 1.28 but I know I could play around with it and get some better numbers and will try again today.


----------



## Am3Y

Guys I Want To Overclock My i7-3770K CPU using Sabertooth z77 mobo...
I Ame totally new to Overclocking..
Can Anyone Help Me to OC my Rig...
I Hav a Corsair h100 CPU cooler..


----------



## cwaters425

I watched several videos of JJ from asus overclocking on z77 boards with a program called auto tune. I assumed that would come with my sabertooth, but it didnt. after searching auto tune doesn't come with the "TUF" series boards. I was really hoping to use auto tune to get a semi decent over clock on my i5 3570k ( i was looking to bump it to around 4-4.1ghz). I have never over clocked so I really dont feel confortable going in and manually changing things. Does anyone know if its possible to d/l auto tune and use it with the sabertooth boards?

thanks,
Chris


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> I watched several videos of JJ from asus overclocking on z77 boards with a program called auto tune. I assumed that would come with my sabertooth, but it didnt. after searching auto tune doesn't come with the "TUF" series boards. I was really hoping to use auto tune to get a semi decent over clock on my i5 3570k ( i was looking to bump it to around 4-4.1ghz). I have never over clocked so I really dont feel confortable going in and manually changing things. Does anyone know if its possible to d/l auto tune and use it with the sabertooth boards?
> thanks,
> Chris


It does have "OC Tuner" which should be the same.
Its under the "Ai Tweaker" section on "Advanced View" inside the BIOS.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys I Want To Overclock My i7-3770K CPU using Sabertooth z77 mobo...
> I Ame totally new to Overclocking..
> Can Anyone Help Me to OC my Rig...
> I Hav a Corsair h100 CPU cooler..


You can use this bios setup for a crack at 4.5ghz. I tested this 12hr prime and Hours of BF3. Disregard the ram settings unless your using a 16gb gskill sniper 2133mhz kit. Set your Memory Frequency to whatever you have.. Good Luck


----------



## 10pmstalker

Am I the only one having a problem with the zoomed in bios? I have the latest bios so I dont know whats wrong.


----------



## nolimit208

Assembled this board today, I am unable to get my Asus PCE-N15 wireless PCI-e card to work. Tried all the PCI-e slots but get nothing out of any of them. Seen someone have an issue like this but was with a sound card that needed updated.

Any help would be appreciate. Brand new to this board so could be a stupid setting in bios I am missing.

NM got it fixed


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Am I the only one having a problem with the zoomed in bios? I have the latest bios so I dont know whats wrong.


I will go out on a limb here and say its probably nothing to do with the BIOS but rather between your Card and Monitor.. What output do you use off your card to the monitor? DVI? or HDMI. Have you looked into any settings of your monitor? I dont have this problem so just trying to throw out a few suggestions..


----------



## Valek

So I finally got stable at 4.6 with 1.27v but I noticed in cpu-z that my voltage is constant at 1.27 and doesn't drop when idle even though I have it set to offset in the bios. What would be the reason for this?


----------



## KingKwentyne

Finally I am at a point where I can take a pic of my system and a screen shot of my desktop.











Did a little overclocking. Now running at 4.5 with great temps. I am planning on moving to an H100 from cosair in the near future and getting some sleeved cables.


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I will go out on a limb here and say its probably nothing to do with the BIOS but rather between your Card and Monitor.. What output do you use off your card to the monitor? DVI? or HDMI. Have you looked into any settings of your monitor? I dont have this problem so just trying to throw out a few suggestions..


Im using a DVI cable. I did change the settings in my monitor while in the bios. It just makes the screen smaller but I can still only see the same amount of the bios. I tried hooking it up with a DVI to HDMI cable but my monitor wouldn't recognize it . Also a VGA cables worked just fine. I can see the whole bios with that but its such a hassle switching out the cables every time. Theres got to be a fix for the DVI cable. When I bought the motherboard I had the guy install the cpu and update the bios. I wonder if it has something to do with him using a different resolution when first booting it up?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Im using a DVI cable. I did change the settings in my monitor while in the bios. It just makes the screen smaller but I can still only see the same amount of the bios. I tried hooking it up with a DVI to HDMI cable but my monitor wouldn't recognize it . Also a VGA cables worked just fine. I can see the whole bios with that but its such a hassle switching out the cables every time. Theres got to be a fix for the DVI cable. When I bought the motherboard I had the guy install the cpu and update the bios. I wonder if it has something to do with him using a different resolution when first booting it up?


No auto scaling/re-sizing options in the monitor settings?


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> No auto scaling/re-sizing options in the monitor settings?


Looking in the manual it says Auto Adjust is only available when you are using the analog (VGA) connector. Ive had plenty of motherboards with this monitor. This is the only one that has giving me this issue. Ive also tried with HDMI to my tv. Same issue.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Looking in the manual it says Auto Adjust is only available when you are using the analog (VGA) connector. Ive had plenty of motherboards with this monitor. This is the only one that has giving me this issue.


Well, since you stated it works when connected to the VGA and now the manual tells you Auto Adjust is only available when using analog, it appears unfortunately you found your answer...apparently the other boards worked differently but this appears to be working as designed.

If I had to guess, I would bet that this Bios being a GUI with mouse support and most of the others in the past having been just text based, it may be why you are just now realizing the limitation of the connection types on your particular monitor with this Bios.


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Well, since you stated it works when connected to the VGA and now the manual tells you Auto Adjust is only available when using analog, it appears unfortunately you found your answer...apparently the other boards worked differently but this appears to be working as designed.


I figured it out. I went into CCC and enabled "Alternate DVI operational mode" Such a relief. Now to get an H100 and overclock as much as it will let me!


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> I figured it out. I went into CCC and enabled "Alternate DVI operational mode" Such a relief. Now to get an H100 and overclock as much as it will let me!


Outstanding!


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Outstanding!


Well that solution turned out not to work. I had another HDMI plugged into the motherboard and it turns out that was the reason my bios came in normal. Weird thing is the other side of the HDMI isnt plugged into anything at all. So now im using HDMI to DVI from the TV to the GPU, DVI from PC monitor to GPU and HDMI into motherboard port just to see the bios like I should. I heard this motherboard wont work with HDMI 1.4. Can someone confirm this? Maybe it will be fixed with a future update or is that even possible?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I have a question. Has anybody experience this before? a -1c on the Mboard?


I have the same thing happen sometimes and it always fixes itself with a reboot. I have found it only occurs when I have another temperature monitoring program running at the same time so that might be the cause. I doubt it is a hardware fault.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> It does have "OC Tuner" which should be the same.
> Its under the "Ai Tweaker" section on "Advanced View" inside the BIOS.


I wouldn't bother with the auto overclock. Overclocking this board is very straight forward.

Go into bios

set Vcore offset to +.035

set multiplier to 45

everything else to auto

That should give you a 4.5Ghz overclock with nice low temps. There shouldn't be any need to change any other setting besides your ram settings to fit your own ram unless you want to go higher than that.

If you need help I can post some BIOS screen shots but I think others have already done the same.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I wouldn't bother with the auto overclock. Overclocking this board is very straight forward.
> Go into bios
> set Vcore offset to +.035
> set multiplier to 45
> everything else to auto
> That should give you a 4.5Ghz overclock with nice low temps. There shouldn't be any need to change any other setting besides your ram settings to fit your own ram unless you want to go higher than that.
> If you need help I can post some BIOS screen shots but I think others have already done the same.


I don't use that. Somebody asked about auto overclock hence I told.
I got a solid 4.5GHz OC on 1.32v (Manual).


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I am posting my 1504 BIOS for a 4.5 overclock on 3770k again.. Completely Stable.. These Settings Translate to an Idle Voltage of .98v and a Loaded Voltage of 1.28v Please disregard the Dram settings unless your using a 16gb PC2133 KIT.


Hi. Good work









Just a note though ... I use the exact same settings for my 4.5 settings except I leave the load line calibration on auto and the CPU current capability on 130%

I'm currently running at 4.7 and that requires the load line to be at medium. As far as I have read and tested you shouldn't need really high load line til you are near 5GHz

That is with my chip though I suppose.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I don't use that. Somebody asked about auto overclock hence I told.
> I got a solid 4.5GHz OC on 1.32v (Manual).


Yeah, sorry bout that I meant to be replying to the same guy you did


----------



## Jakusonfire

Got my 360 and 240 radiator into the Bitfenix Raider. Just waiting for my 7970 to be replaced under warranty as it arrived DOA. I have an EK FC7970 block for it.



Using a cheap temp sensor at the moment for water temps.

I should be able to fit a 120 radiator in there as well.

Currently running at 4.7GHz


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, sorry bout that I meant to be replying to the same guy you did


Those bios shots are getting a little dated and i am testing with High as the LLC now. and 130%. drops my loaded to 1.256v and Hottest core by 9C. Just starting Prime run.. Thanks








If this stays stable for 12h Prime and Hours of BF3 I will keep it..


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hey, What monitoring app is that?

I'm getting this with a medium load line and a +.090 offset ... totally stable in BF3 and Prime, Intel burn.

Load


Idle


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hey, What monitoring app is that?
> I'm getting this with a medium load line and a +.090 offset ... totally stable in BF3 and Prime, Intel burn.
> Load
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle


Its This.. Right click the sensor and choose show in Gadget. http://openhardwaremonitor.org/downloads/

We have different cpu's so there is some small difference in what voltages are needed but based on dropping the LLC im getting a little better temps and so far stable 30 min prime 80% mem and a couple quick rounds of BF3 DM earlier.. Do you have Hyper Threading Disabled?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, sorry bout that I meant to be replying to the same guy you did


No problem bro









BTW, which one works better, manual or offset mode for the vcore?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah I figured it out from looking at your screenie.

No I don't think I have hyper threading disabled.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> No problem bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, which one works better, manual or offset mode for the vcore?


I find that offset mode works well for me because it lets the cpu run slower and cooler when it can. I think manual is really only necessary for ultra high OC's getting towards 5Ghz


----------



## Rakin

Thanks. I'll try offset mode then

+Rep


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah I figured it out from looking at your screenie.
> No I don't think I have hyper threading disabled.


I have 8 threads working in Prime. I see 4 workers in your screen?


----------



## Hanoverfist

never mind 3570k does not support 4 virtual cores.


----------



## Snapper74

Hey guys,I just built my rig and lovn m sabertooth but I need some help
Can you guys please help me oc my CPU...it's a i5 3570k and I have a corsair h100
In a push pull config,if there's any one here that give basically a step by step that would
Be awesome thanks for the help


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Hey guys,I just built my rig and lovn m sabertooth but I need some help
> Can you guys please help me oc my CPU...it's a i5 3570k and I have a corsair h100
> In a push pull config,if there's any one here that give basically a step by step that would
> Be awesome thanks for the help


Here is a shot of a 3570k at 4.7 .. looks like he tested too.. If your interested .. of course his ram settings will be different from yours. It is also a H100 he uses.








http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2310#post_17991517


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Hey guys,I just built my rig and lovn m sabertooth but I need some help
> Can you guys please help me oc my CPU...it's a i5 3570k and I have a corsair h100
> In a push pull config,if there's any one here that give basically a step by step that would
> Be awesome thanks for the help


I can send you my 4.5Ghz profile if you are using the 1504 BIOS

But it really should be easy to hit that. Just set the "Turbo ratio" to manual

Set the 4 cores to 45 when that option appears

scroll down to "Offset mode sign" and set to +

set "CPU Offset Voltage" to something like .035

I leave everything else on auto and that worked fine when I was using an Antec 920 for cooling.

Press F10 and save changes

That should be OK but all chips can be slightly different so a bit of experimenting with small voltage changes might be necessary for stability

This guide was useful to me.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1219588/updated-part-ii-offset-mode-overclocking-starter-guide-and-thread


----------



## Hanoverfist

If anyone is interested in some Reading on UEFI Tuning then this is Pretty Good for Explaining Some of the Settings in OUR Z77 BIOS

http://www.mediafire.com/?l34d6j6c4wqfx69


----------



## Hanoverfist

If anyone has copied my Bios for the i7 3770k and is still following this Thread then i have starting testing for a Lower Voltage by making only These Changes in Digi Power Control.
Here is a side by side Comparison of what has Changed.. These Changes will result in Lowering your Loaded Vcore from 1.28v to 1.25v .. After a 30 min run in Prime my Hottest core has dropped anywhere from 7 to 9C.. So by dropping your Vcore at load you too can expect some lower temps.. I am only using DRAM Power Phase Control in that state in Hopes of Maintaining MY memory OC which is Unimpressive to say the Least.

OLD



NEW


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenneh*
> 
> One of my small assist fans (the one I have installed on the rear of the mb) is DOA. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a suitable and quiet replacement? Maybe a 40mm fan?
> Thanks for everything!


Gelid silent 5 50mm I think works.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426032

If you want to spend a bit more go with the Fractal Designs SILENT SERIES R2 50mm. They also have a 40mm.
http://www.amazon.com/FRACTAL-CASE-Silent-Series-50mm/dp/B008MJSPM6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1347816845&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Fractal+Silent+Series+50mm+5cm


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Gelid silent 5 50mm I think works.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426032
> If you want to spend a bit more go with the Fractal Designs SILENT SERIES R2 50mm. They also have a 40mm.
> http://www.amazon.com/FRACTAL-CASE-Silent-Series-50mm/dp/B008MJSPM6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1347816845&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Fractal+Silent+Series+50mm+5cm


The fans supplied are 35mm ... a 40mm fan can be fitted in the IO slot using the extra larger fan mount.

Fast (6500 RPM) 40mm X 10mm fans can be found on ebay.

I bought a cheap medium speed 3pin one and it doesn't report its speed anymore though. so buyer beware I guess.

I wish ASUS would just sell replacements.


----------



## Jakusonfire

4.7GHz temps after 2 1/2 hours of P95 mixed


----------



## yeesan2004

--- i forget the quote. please ignore it


----------



## yeesan2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viesta*
> 
> this happen to me. you need to update drivers for intel sata
> otherwise, plug it into the brown sata port. then it will show up.


I have the same problem too! I have already plug in my hard drive into the brown sata but it still can't read it like my SSD. should i update the bios?


----------



## 10pmstalker

Is anyone using the motherboard HDMI port? I cant get it to work at all.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Is anyone using the motherboard HDMI port? I cant get it to work at all.


At the moment I'm using the HDMI and the Displayport at the same time. I didn't change anything to do it.

I assume you have installed the Intel graphics driver?

And are you trying to use it with a GPU card at the same time? because I'm not sure but that could be an issue.


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> At the moment I'm using the HDMI and the Displayport at the same time. I didn't change anything to do it.
> I assume you have installed the Intel graphics driver?
> And are you trying to use it with a GPU card at the same time? because I'm not sure but that could be an issue.


Im trying to simply use it from the motherboard to the TV. Im not sure if I have the intel graphics driver. I think all I grabbed was my GPU driver.

EDIT: so I enabled iGPU in the bios and installed the driver but its still not working. Are you using HDMI 1.4? I heard somewhere 1.4 wont work with this motherboard.


----------



## kizwan

Do you mean HDMI ver 1.4 cable? I use HDMI 1.4 cable for years & doesn't have any problem. None of my computers & devices support HDMI 1.4. I highly doubt the problem is related to HDMI 1.4 cable.


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Do you mean HDMI ver 1.4 cable? I use HDMI 1.4 cable for years & doesn't have any problem. None of my computers & devices support HDMI 1.4. I highly doubt the problem is related to HDMI 1.4 cable.


I have no clue what the problem is then.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Is anyone using the motherboard HDMI port? I cant get it to work at all.


I tested the Onboard Hdmi and it works fine. Auto detected and displays just fine. Set my monitor to auto recognize input. BIOS is 1504. I don't use it but it does work.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Im trying to simply use it from the motherboard to the TV. Im not sure if I have the intel graphics driver. I think all I grabbed was my GPU driver.
> EDIT: so I enabled iGPU in the bios and installed the driver but its still not working. Are you using HDMI 1.4? I heard somewhere 1.4 wont work with this motherboard.


Have you used that igpu for that CPU on another board so you know it does work?


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Have you used that igpu for that CPU on another board so you know it does work?


No I havent. Once I set the igpu to primary in the bios it will show the pc loading on my TV then it will go blank when the PC is loaded. Theres got to be a way to enable it in windows.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> No I havent. Once I set the igpu to primary in the bios it will show the pc loading on my TV then it will go blank when the PC is loaded. Theres got to be a way to enable it in windows.


Here is the test i ran awhile ago.. Documented the Steps i used for testing the onboard feature.. wouldnt work with a graphics card in the PCIe slot. Dont know if this helps you though..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2250#post_17966247

You have a 5850 listed in your sig. is that installed?


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

I just ordered a Team TR1151 card reader.

There wont be any compatibility issues with our motherboard right?

Also how future proof is our current motherboard? When the new intell chips come out, will we be able to fully take advantage of it?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> I just ordered a Team TR1151 card reader.
> 
> There wont be any compatibility issues with our motherboard right?
> 
> Also how future proof is our current motherboard? When the new intell chips come out, will we be able to fully take advantage of it?


This is not confirmed by intel..whether 1155 will cross to 1150 haswell http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> This is not confirmed by intel..whether 1155 will cross to 1150 haswell http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1150


Hmmm I see.

So if Haswell does not support 1155, than no way we can use it in our motherboards.

However i would hope that it would be supported


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmm I see.
> 
> So if Haswell does not support 1155, than no way we can use it in our motherboards.
> 
> However i would hope that it would be supported


Same here ..


----------



## Z4-35i

Just ordered the following today, including the ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 to replace a P6X58D-E which was covered in coolant when my CoolIT ECO ALC failed.

ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
i7-3770K 3.5Ghz
MSI GeForce GTX 660Ti Power Edition

I've been trying unsuccessfully to get my old rig up and running again after the ECO ALC failed, but after trying pretty much every option available it still wouldn't consistently boot into POST. I've been through all the recommended coolant cleaning and drying options.

I started with a new air cooled CPU heatsink to replace the ECO ALC, so I went for a Noctua NH-D14. This also meant getting a new case, so I went for a NZXT Phantom in white









My Crucial C300 SSD and WD drives managed not to get covered in coolant, so I can reuse these.

The memory in my old P6X58D-E rig was 3x4GB Kinston HyperX 1600s, which also didn't get any coolant on them, so I'm hoping that these will be okay.

I had 2 x GTX460s in SLI mode, but these also had a lot of coolant on them from the ECO ALC failure. They may still work, but I thought I might as well get a new GPU as I'm pretty much having to change everything else. I'll be looking to add another MSI GTX 660Ti in a couple of months time.

I'll post some pictures once I get everything together to start the new SABERTOOTH Z77 build.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> If anyone has copied my Bios for the i7 3770k and is still following this Thread then i have starting testing for a Lower Voltage by making only These Changes in Digi Power Control.
> Here is a side by side Comparison of what has Changed.. These Changes will result in Lowering your Loaded Vcore from 1.28v to 1.25v .. After a 30 min run in Prime my Hottest core has dropped anywhere from 7 to 9C.. So by dropping your Vcore at load you too can expect some lower temps.. I am only using DRAM Power Phase Control in that state in Hopes of Maintaining MY memory OC which is Unimpressive to say the Least.
> OLD
> 
> NEW


Interesting!

I may have to try this. How about whea errors?


----------



## NeoSonic

Hey Guys,

Having a bit of trouble here, just built a new computer for a friend of mine, the components are as follows;

ASUS Sabertooth Z77 (BIOS 1050)
GeForce GTX 670 4GB (KFA2) (Pre-Overclocked I believe) (this might be causing the problem?)
Intel i7 2700k @ 3.50Ghz (Stock Cooler)
Corsair HX650W Power Supply
TeamGroup Elite 16GB (DDR3 PC3-12800C11 1600MHZ Dual Channel Kit) (2x 8GB in slots A2 & B2)
240Gb SSD
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
HP 2229H Monitor @ 1680x1050

Got to say the machine is a beast, runs everything on MAX GTA IV, Battlefield 3, Skyrim, Crysis, Dolphin ect. (legal backup of my games of course)

Unfortunately after a while of playing the system hangs & requires a reboot.
Anyone got any ideas as to what could be causing this issue, seems to me like it could be a conflict of some kind but nothing stands out, also Windows Error Log doesn't seem to show anything at the time of the crash, it makes a note of me performing a hard reset but nothing immediately before that.

I was up till about 5:30 this morning twatting around with it & I'm running out of ideas.

If you need any other specs please let me know.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Many Thanks

Aran


----------



## iARDAs

Hmmm

Oc instability could be one problem.

How are your temperatures?

Also upgrade your bios to 1504. Did you try this? This could probably fix the issue for you.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoSonic*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Having a bit of trouble here, just built a new computer for a friend of mine, the components are as follows;
> ASUS Sabertooth Z77 (BIOS 1050)
> GeForce GTX 670 4GB (KFA2) (Pre-Overclocked I believe) (this might be causing the problem?)
> Intel i7 2700k @ 3.50Ghz (Stock Cooler)
> Corsair HX650W Power Supply
> TeamGroup Elite 16GB (DDR3 PC3-12800C11 1600MHZ Dual Channel Kit) (2x 8GB in slots A2 & B2)
> 240Gb SSD
> Windows 7 Ultimate x64
> HP 2229H Monitor @ 1680x1050
> Got to say the machine is a beast, runs everything on MAX GTA IV, Battlefield 3, Skyrim, Crysis, Dolphin ect. (legal backup of my games of course)
> Unfortunately after a while of playing the system hangs & requires a reboot.
> Anyone got any ideas as to what could be causing this issue, seems to me like it could be a conflict of some kind but nothing stands out, also Windows Error Log doesn't seem to show anything at the time of the crash, it makes a note of me performing a hard reset but nothing immediately before that.
> I was up till about 5:30 this morning twatting around with it & I'm running out of ideas.
> If you need any other specs please let me know.
> Any help or advice would be appreciated.
> Many Thanks
> Aran


Start with a bios upgrade.

SSD could require a firmware update.

Videocard may have a bios update. You can use msi afterburner or evga precision and try and tone it down to stock clocks. Both programs also support some testing programs that stress just the video card so you can check for errors with.


----------



## NeoSonic

Not too sure about the temps at the mo' any idea what temp the card would have to be to hang like that?
I'll give updating the BIOS a go though.

Thanks for the suggestions

I'll let you know how it goes


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoSonic*
> 
> Not too sure about the temps at the mo' any idea what temp the card would have to be to hang like that?
> I'll give updating the BIOS a go though.
> Thanks for the suggestions
> I'll let you know how it goes


A lot. like maybe over 90 degrees 

However i truly believe that when you updrade your BIOS, the problem will be solved.

Let us know.

Its a very easy procedure.

Remember to roll back everything to OPTIMIZED DEFAULTS before running bios updates.


----------



## NeoSonic

Good to know about the stress tests, I'll give those a go & see what happens before I update the BIOS

Thanks for the info


----------



## NeoSonic

I doubt its reaching that, i've tested with the fan on the card on 75% & it still hangs.
I'll roll it all back to the defaults & give it a go then.

Cheers


----------



## NeoSonic

Hey, Just updated the BIOS
Gonna' test GTA & see what happens...fingers crossed!


----------



## iARDAs

99% there wont be problems, but if there are let us know.


----------



## NeoSonic

Still got problems =( ... same issue, the BIOS updated properly, I might check out the firmware on the 670 see if it needs updating as well


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Interesting!
> I may have to try this. How about whea errors?


none yet.


----------



## Snapper74

Hey guys,I have 670 sli and I was wondering if I need to use the "IGPU"
Option in my bios? If so what's the benifet of doing so?....thanks for the help


----------



## iARDAs

I would also try the following

1-) Try the 670 in a different PCI slot

2-) If you have more than 1 RAMs than try each of them alone and see if it works. Try them in different RAM slots as well.

3-) Your PSU is good, but try one of the different PSU cables if there is an extra.

4-) try a different GPU power cable

honestly these are the only things that come to my mind.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Hey guys,I have 670 sli and I was wondering if I need to use the "IGPU"
> Option in my bios? If so what's the benifet of doing so?....thanks for the help


iGPU is for virtu and virtu does not support SLI.

No need to enable it.


----------



## Snapper74

Ok...... Guys,I'm having issues getting any kind of overclock other than the asus optimal thing that gives you a 4.2 overclcok......I've followed the step by step profiles here on this thread for the 4.5 overclock and I can't get any gaming benchmarks to run and prime doesn't do well at all.....my temps stay under 44c ,I don't know I must not be doing this right.....I have an i5 3570k.....
Can you guys please help....thank you all


----------



## cwaters425

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I wouldn't bother with the auto overclock. Overclocking this board is very straight forward.
> Go into bios
> set Vcore offset to +.035
> set multiplier to 45
> everything else to auto
> That should give you a 4.5Ghz overclock with nice low temps. There shouldn't be any need to change any other setting besides your ram settings to fit your own ram unless you want to go higher than that.
> If you need help I can post some BIOS screen shots but I think others have already done the same.


is the overclock supposed to display all the time? when i right click on my comp it still shows i5 3570k @ 3.4ghz. If I open cpuid it shows the same in the top portion (3.4ghz), but when I do things on the comp it continuously changes on the bottom portion up to 4533mhz. is that right? am i getting a 4.5 overclock? does the overclock only happen when I am doing something on the comp? When I'm idle CPUid bottom section goes all the way down to 1608mhz. This is my first time trying to OC so i'm not sure what to expect.

-Chris


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Ok...... Guys,I'm having issues getting any kind of overclock other than the asus optimal thing that gives you a 4.2 overclcok......I've followed the step by step profiles here on this thread for the 4.5 overclock and I can't get any gaming benchmarks to run and prime doesn't do well at all.....my temps stay under 44c ,I don't know I must not be doing this right.....I have an i5 3570k.....
> Can you guys please help....thank you all


Who's BIOS did you use?


----------



## Snapper74

I

I went to asus web site and down loaded the 1504 bios and asus suit ii said that the update was successful and it also shows 1504 when I go into bios


----------



## Snapper74

i went to the asus wbe site and downloaded the 1504 bios....its said update successful and when i boot in to bios it shows 1504....sorry for the double post.....


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> I
> I went to asus web site and down loaded the 1504 bios and asus suit ii said that the update was successful and it also shows 1504 when I go into bios


so whats the problem then? You have the latest bios.


----------



## Snapper74

Well the prob is I'm a noob at ocing and I've tried to follow the post here on this thread on how to over clock but i must be doing some thing wrong . If I chose the asus overclock thing in the bios it ocs to 4.2 but I can't get to go any higher so I must be missing some thing and I don't know what


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cwaters425*
> 
> is the overclock supposed to display all the time? when i right click on my comp it still shows i5 3570k @ 3.4ghz. If I open cpuid it shows the same in the top portion (3.4ghz), but when I do things on the comp it continuously changes on the bottom portion up to 4533mhz. is that right? am i getting a 4.5 overclock? does the overclock only happen when I am doing something on the comp? When I'm idle CPUid bottom section goes all the way down to 1608mhz. This is my first time trying to OC so i'm not sure what to expect.
> -Chris


Yes. Your CPU will throttle as needed. This is in order to reduce temperatures, power consumption, and extend the lifespan of the CPU. Everything is normal in what you posted. Congrats on the 4.5 OC.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmm I see.
> So if Haswell does not support 1155, than no way we can use it in our motherboards.
> However i would hope that it would be supported


Chances are Haswell will not be supported on 1155 motherboards. All of Intel's info releases have hinted at this. Also, shockingly may have to upgrade again for Broadwell as it will be a true system on a chip implementation and will almost for sure require another motherboard upgrade as the chipset will be integrated on the die.
If you jumped on the Ivy Bridge I would probably ride it out until Skylake which is due out in 2015. The Haswell architecture is not going to be a smooth ride. I do feel sorry for those that are going to be waiting with Sandy Bridge CPUs though. They are going to age a bit less gracefully I think especially with upcoming video cards and support for PCIe 3.0 maybe?
I guess we'll see. Best to go with a 3770K or 3570K now though and just wait.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Yesterday i decided for 4.7 with the 3770k. didnt run prime but played with BF3 for about 3 hrs. running prime blend now with 80% mem. Yesterday Started off by keeping offset voltage + and Auto for CPU V Just to see what ball park i would be in for Voltage wise. That ran 4.7 loaded at 1.44 and high for LLC i think idle was 1.14v.. So started adjusting the CPU OFFSET V until things stopped crashing and landed at 0.100 for the offset and back to Ultra High for LLC. That gives 1.35 loaded and Idles around 1.04v. Letting this run while at work. I expect Temps to Rise as the Loop Heats up.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> Im trying to simply use it from the motherboard to the TV. Im not sure if I have the intel graphics driver. I think all I grabbed was my GPU driver.
> EDIT: so I enabled iGPU in the bios and installed the driver but its still not working. Are you using HDMI 1.4? I heard somewhere 1.4 wont work with this motherboard.


I don't think its a HDMI 1.4 ... its just a HDMI monitor and I thought HDMI 1.4 carried ethernet or something?

I'm just using the onboard DP and HDMI at the moment because my graphics card is being RMA'd so I can't test it but I assume the prob must be using the onboard graphics and the graphics card at the same time with two different monitors. I think maybe that isn't possible? I normally have both my monitors on the graphics card.

Sorry I can't be of more help


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yesterday i decided for 4.7 with the 3770k. didnt run prime but played with BF3 for about 3 hrs. running prime blend now with 80% mem. Yesterday Started off by keeping offset voltage + and Auto for CPU V Just to see what ball park i would be in for Voltage wise. That ran 4.7 loaded at 1.44 and high for LLC i think idle was 1.14v.. So started adjusting the CPU OFFSET V until things stopped crashing and landed at 0.100 for the offset and back to Ultra High for LLC. That gives 1.35 loaded and Idles around 1.04v. Letting this run while at work. I expect Temps to Rise as the Loop Heats up.


Nice!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Yesterday i decided for 4.7 with the 3770k. didnt run prime but played with BF3 for about 3 hrs. running prime blend now with 80% mem. Yesterday Started off by keeping offset voltage + and Auto for CPU V Just to see what ball park i would be in for Voltage wise. That ran 4.7 loaded at 1.44 and high for LLC i think idle was 1.14v.. So started adjusting the CPU OFFSET V until things stopped crashing and landed at 0.100 for the offset and back to Ultra High for LLC. That gives 1.35 loaded and Idles around 1.04v. Letting this run while at work. I expect Temps to Rise as the Loop Heats up.


Wait...I thought you were trying to lower voltage and dropping LLC to high? It sounds like ultra high gives lower volts? What is the offset *V*?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Chances are Haswell will not be supported on 1155 motherboards. All of Intel's info releases have hinted at this. Also, shockingly may have to upgrade again for Broadwell as it will be a true system on a chip implementation and will almost for sure require another motherboard upgrade as the chipset will be integrated on the die.
> If you jumped on the Ivy Bridge I would probably ride it out until Skylake which is due out in 2015. The Haswell architecture is not going to be a smooth ride. I do feel sorry for those that are going to be waiting with Sandy Bridge CPUs though. They are going to age a bit less gracefully I think especially with upcoming video cards and support for PCIe 3.0 maybe?
> I guess we'll see. Best to go with a 3770K or 3570K now though and just wait.


Hmmm I have a 3570k, maybe i will keep that for the years to come.

What is the best CPU in this generation that is compatible with 1155?

a CPU that will take me further than 3570k.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Wait...I thought you were trying to lower voltage and dropping LLC to high? It sounds like ultra high gives lower volts? What is the offset *V*?


That was at 4.5 now on to 4.7 so things changed


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmm I have a 3570k, maybe i will keep that for the years to come.
> 
> What is the best CPU in this generation that is compatible with 1155?
> 
> a CPU that will take me further than 3570k.


3770k


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> 3770k


my bro in law works at Intel and he has discounts. Goes for his family too

I made a stupid mistake not getting the 3770k for like 30 bucks more.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Wait...I thought you were trying to lower voltage and dropping LLC to high? It sounds like ultra high gives lower volts? What is the offset *V*?


Offset V is short for CPU Offset Voltage. And raising my LLC results in Voltage increase which i had to do for 4.7 because With a CPU Offset Voltage of 0.100 and LLC of High i Would crash some Win Apps. But increasing my LLC back to Ultra High increased my voltage by 0.03 providing a stable 4.7.. Had a few hours of run time with prime blend and 80% and more BF3 today.. all good


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> my bro in law works at Intel and he has discounts. Goes for his family too
> 
> I made a stupid mistake not getting the 3770k for like 30 bucks more.


Bummer... Not to say the 3570k is a bad thing. but if you wanted the Top Ivy Bridge 1155 then yes a 3770k would have given you just that..


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Bummer... Not to say the 3570k is a bad thing. but if you wanted the Top Ivy Bridge 1155 then yes a 3770k would have given you just that..


Still I can probably ask for one though and just keep the 3570 as backup lol


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Still I can probably ask for one though and just keep the 3570 as backup lol


Thats GOOD..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Here is 3770k at 4.7 Bios Settings.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Snapper74

Just want to thank hanoverfist for all the help .....Ty bro


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Just want to thank hanoverfist for all the help .....Ty bro


----------



## billythekid2012

I think im going to sale my sabertooth and get a different z77 board

i don,t thing the sabertooth handles sli to good .

A friend of mine came over with his asrock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional

and i installed my 2 evga gtx 670 sc 4gb cards

with the same cpu o/c and gpu o/c as i have with my sabertooth

on the Fatal1tyZ77 Professional in 3d mark 11 scored 700 more p points

on my sabertooth at 4.7 i get only p 16187 on his at 4.5 p 16956

My be my board is fulty


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> I think im going to sale my sabertooth and get a different z77 board
> i don,t thing the sabertooth handles sli to good .
> A friend of mine came over with his asrock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional
> and i installed my 2 evga gtx 670 sc 4gb cards
> with the same cpu o/c and gpu o/c as i have with my sabertooth
> on the Fatal1tyZ77 Professional in 3d mark 11 scored 700 more p points
> on my sabertooth at 4.7 i get only p 16187 on his at 4.5 p 16956
> My be my board is fulty


I could never justify buying a different Mainboard just because it gave me 700 points more in some Benchmark.. But to each his own.. Now i could see buying new if i couldnt play games at a decent FPS. Good Luck. were you using the same Memory and Timings


----------



## Lesiunta

Hey man!

I'm looking at your C3/C6 states enabled, doesn't that affect certain OCZ Vertex SSD's performance? Only in RAID?
I can't remember where I read that.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Hey man!
> I'm looking at your C3/C6 states enabled, doesn't that affect certain OCZ Vertex SSD's performance? Only in RAID?
> I can't remember where I read that.


Don't know about that. I had benchmarks of my vertex 4 I posted and compared to other similar drives it looked good.

http://www.overclock.net/t/754763/as-ssd-benchmark-thread/2390#post_17915675


----------



## Snapper74

Ok guys..... I have an i5 3570 k and here's my OC settings....at 4.6
Blk 100.0
Asus muticore ....enabled
Pll over voltage ....auto
Ram ....manually set to 1866 cause that's what I have
Epu power saving mode......disabled
CPU voltage offset .....0.65
Dram voltage....auto ,which is at 1507v....
CPU load line ..... Ultra high...
CPU current capability....140percent
everything else is at auto and I think I almost have it stable but there's
still a few little twicks i need to make but not sure where to go from here,can you guys
give me some advice please....and my temps under prime 95 is 70c for about and hour...
thanks for all the help


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Ok guys..... I have an i5 3570 k and here's my OC settings....at 4.6
> Blk 100.0
> Asus muticore ....enabled
> Pll over voltage ....auto
> Ram ....manually set to 1866 cause that's what I have
> Epu power saving mode......disabled
> CPU voltage offset .....0.65
> Dram voltage....auto ,which is at 1507v....
> CPU load line ..... Ultra high...
> CPU current capability....140percent
> everything else is at auto and I think I almost have it stable but there's
> still a few little twicks i need to make but not sure where to go from here,can you guys
> give me some advice please....and my temps under prime 95 is 70c for about and hour...
> thanks for all the help


That temp looks a lot more reasonable than what you had first told me.. Be happy at 46.. Or what do you Want to do? Any BSOD or Win app Crashes? Prime Crashes? You couldnt get stable at 47?


----------



## Snapper74

Ya.....it would show the windows log in screen but never go to the screen so I had to turn off the computer and boot up in bios and reset the over clock...any idea why


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snapper74*
> 
> Ya.....it would show the windows log in screen but never go to the screen so I had to turn off the computer and boot up in bios and reset the over clock...any idea why


My guess is voltage... whenever i undervolt when trying for a new clock speed i get all sorts of weird stuff happen.. Apps crash. cant boot.. Bsod's , Hardware Monitor will crash.. How bout when leaving CPU Offset Voltage to auto???


----------



## Snapper74

Hummm..... I haven't tried that...are there any other options I should Change .....


----------



## Hanoverfist

Pm at you


----------



## Lesiunta

Tried your exact BIOS settings for the new 4.7GHz OC, chief. Prime 95 27.27 crashed the entire computer on Large FTTs for maximum heat etc. (reset and in the Event Viewer it said that it was a Memory Dump). Had the memory set to 2200MHz like you did even on the Platinums.

You think this RAM voltage or my CPU needs more j000se?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Tried your exact BIOS settings for the new 4.7GHz OC, chief. Prime 95 27.27 crashed the entire computer on Large FTTs for maximum heat etc. (reset and in the Event Viewer it said that it was a Memory Dump). Had the memory set to 2200MHz like you did even on the Platinums.
> You think this RAM voltage or my CPU needs more j000se?


What ram do you have? That ram setting is only for my set. 16gb pc2133mhz And will not work for everyone. This is my bios and what works for me. should only be used as a guide for 4.7 on a 3770k.. and not all 3770k's are created equally.. But if it mem dump then you have your answer.


----------



## Lesiunta

I got the Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 4x4GBs.

I went back at it again, added 1.665volts and Prime crashed even faster than before.

I'm thinking Memory Controller on the CPU can't handle this ram @ 2200MHz and or 2400Mhz.


----------



## Z4-35i

My new Z77 base build is now up and running and I was fortunate that both the boot and user drives worked first time from my old damaged system. Incidentally, Cool It have been very good at handling the RMA on my failed ECO ALC, which is more than can be said of MESH who haven't replied to any of my emails or calls. Lesson learnt, don't by anything from MESH!

This is my first bare bones build and everything was fairly straightforward, although I couldn't get the fan controller to work on my NZXT Phantom, so moved the fan control connections to the Z77, which I think will be the better option in terms of having centralized fan monitoring and control.

I have some more work to do in tidying up the cabling, but very happy so far with the quality and ease of use of the Z77.

Once the cabling is complete, I'll start on the fan airflow management and the OC. Looking for a moderate OC with minimal fan noise.


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> I got the Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 4x4GBs.
> I went back at it again, added 1.665volts and Prime crashed even faster than before.
> I'm thinking Memory Controller on the CPU can't handle this ram @ 2200MHz and or 2400Mhz.


Play around with the ratio try 100:100 and 100:133 instead of auto.


----------



## Rakin

I'm experiencing BSOD while Idling/browsing sometimes. the code is 0x00124








Any idea what might be causing this issue?
I've increased the vcore a notch, lets see I face any BSOD now. Did anyone else face this issue?
The CPU is a 4.5GHz and vcore is now 1.325v (Manual Mode). LLC is auto.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Just wantecd to come back had my sabertooth few weeks now lovvveee it will put up pics later when im a little futherer into the build.


----------



## Davitz

anyone know if there's a TUF skin for cpu-z and gpu-z?


----------



## Lesiunta

Will try! Thank you!
Also found this nice article @ overclockersforum

http://www.overclockers.com/memory-overclocking-guide-ivy-bridge

THe guy that wrote up that article gave me these suggestsions as well

"Dominators Platinum are on quite good Samsungs so if you have 2400 CL9 then it should make 2600 11-13-13 or 10-13-13. I was testing only TridentX on Samsung IC and at least all that I had were really bad for OC. Dominators are too expensive and I'm not getting any free memory for reviews etc ( at least not yet ).
Samsung chips are scalling till at least 1.85V but it's hard to say how long your memory will live on that voltage Up to 1.75V seems ok.
Try VCCIO 1.25-1.30V , VCCSA 1.20-1.25V and vdimm 1.70-1.75V. "

P.S. We got new goodies coming down the pipe for our mofo mobo!

Sept Driver Update release. Does this mean new BIOS is in the works?

-Intel Chipset Driver V9.3.0.1021 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL)

-Intel Rapid Start Technology Software V2.1.0.1002 for Windows Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.

-Management Engine Interface V8.1.0.1263 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL)

-Intel(R) Gigabit Ethernet Driver V17.2.0.0 for Windows XP/7/8 32bit & 64bit.(WHQL)


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> I'm experiencing BSOD while Idling/browsing sometimes. the code is 0x00124
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what might be causing this issue?
> I've increased the vcore a notch, lets see I face any BSOD now. Did anyone else face this issue?
> The CPU is a 4.5GHz and vcore is now 1.325v (Manual Mode). LLC is auto.


Definitely Load Line Calibration. You raise that in order to not have crashes at near idle. A lot of people do not understand what it really does. I like Vdroop a lot and account for it easily, but some people think you should try to get rid of it at all costs. LLC isn't for getting rid of vdroop protection. It is for stability at near idle.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> I got the Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 4x4GBs.
> I went back at it again, added 1.665volts and Prime crashed even faster than before.
> I'm thinking Memory Controller on the CPU can't handle this ram @ 2200MHz and or 2400Mhz.


Crank it to 1.7v


----------



## Jakusonfire

4.9 Testing


----------



## Z Overlord

so what are people's settings for this board with an i5 3570k @ 4.5GHz?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> so what are people's settings for this board with an i5 3570k @ 4.5GHz?


Give this a go if you like im %100 stable with these settings.

*Im using the latest bios 1504.*



*Use XMP it will set your ram speed, timings and voltage.*



*Using an offset of 0.025 is the sweet spot for 4.5.*



*CPU Spread Spectrum Disabled.*



*CPU Load Line On High.*



*CPU Ratio 45.*



See how you go with some stress testing.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Here are a couple of pics of the Sabertooth Z77 in the new case NZXT Swich 810.


----------



## trancefreak64

I just updated some software from Asus website and my Pc is running like crap I am going to revert back + My Ocz 120gb Vertex 3 is only getting a 5.9 index reading compared to the previous 7.9:

Intel Chipset Driver V9.3.0.1021 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL) < Maybe the issue lies here for the slow boot to full desktop.

Intel(R) Gigabit Ethernet Driver V17.2.0.0 for Windows XP/7/8 32bit & 64bit.(WHQL) < Lan takes longer to fire up and I get a connecting circle on start up. Before it would fly into the desktop









Intel Rapid Start Technology Software V2.1.0.1002 for Windows Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit. Dont need this really installed anyways since I am not using it.

These are some new official Asus drivers from September but I should of just left my PC alone it was running smooth until I updated.

I also noticed this guy "Management Engine Interface V8.1.0.1263 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL)"

& Intel Management Engine Firmware upgrade program
For better Windows® 8 compatibility, this tool will update the Intel® Management Engine(ME) firmware to 8.1.

Doesn't allow me to update the Firmware after installing Intel Management interface. Maybe it is for a new bios coming out because I saw the Windows 8 Bios settings manual which I clearly dont have on current 1504

Going to Google what this does exactly but for now it is time to revert.


----------



## Rakin

As I've read somewhere in this thread that somebody was having issues with 2000+MHz memory modules, so I thought I should as before pulling the trigger on buying one.
Currently I have Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600MHz and was looking at Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz PC3 17000 Dual Channel 240 Pin Desktop Memory CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11R. Will I have any compatibility issues on my i5 2500k?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

hey everyone, i'm soon going to be purchasing the z77 mobo and
i also have some Koolance Ram-33 waterblocks for my soon to be
purchased RAM. so long story short i am looking for 1866+ that is 4x8gig and
has removeable heatsinks so i can add my waterblocks and
is compatable with the motherboard. or even if someone is running
high memory right now could you please let me know what
is the brand/model# etc.. thanx every1


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> As I've read somewhere in this thread that somebody was having issues with 2000+MHz memory modules, so I thought I should as before pulling the trigger on buying one.
> Currently I have Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB 1600MHz and was looking at Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz PC3 17000 Dual Channel 240 Pin Desktop Memory CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11R. Will I have any compatibility issues on my i5 2500k?


I dont know if you have read this or not but should help you decide if going past pc1600 on that i5 2500k is even worth it
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4503/sandy-bridge-memory-scaling-choosing-the-best-ddr3/8

If it help, I run 4 x 4gb 2133 G.Skill sniper ram at 2200 just fine. but thats on Ivy Bridge


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Here are a couple of pics of the Sabertooth Z77 in the new case NZXT Swich 810.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very Nice Hurtn


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> I just updated some software from Asus website and my Pc is running like crap I am going to revert back
> These are some new official Asus drivers from September but I should of just left my PC alone it was running smooth until I updated.


Yep....Dont fix what is not Broke.,.


----------



## Davitz

Hey guys, just got my sig rig up and running and I noticed that i'm not getting quite as much performance as I expected out of my setup.

IE in WoW full fully maxed settings, vsync off, triple buffering off, refresh rate set to 120hz in nvidia control panel and in game i'm only at 45-50fps in org (of course area 52 is a mega populated horde dominant server so I don't expect to be rocking 120fps there at peak times) and outside of org im averaging maybe 74-90 fps. I know there were quite a few vast improvements made to the graphics engine since patch 5.0 but jeez upon 4.0 release my 955be @ 4ghz and 6850 crossfire was giving me similar fps (albeit on a lower population server) but crazy cpu load aside, when i'm alone in a area im getting roughly the same fps showing as my old setup although it feels MUCH smoother and more responsive than previous setups at the same reported fps values.

CPU load is at 25% at peak time in org and it's properly boosting to 4.6ghz upon wow launch.
Afterburner is showing both cards receiving load and SLI IS being recognized by WoW and utilized. Load fluctuates per card between 25 and 60% (it juggles the load between the cards, it'll jump from 25/60 to like 50/30 etc) i'm not sure if that's an indication of throttling or what for the lightnings.

Also, when streaming in org im stuck at around 20-34 fps (50%cpu load) which is just crazy for this setup no matter what settings I try with xsplit and around 54-100 else where in very low pop zones.

Could it be that wow just isn't stressing the cards much or the system and it's throttling back?

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks


----------



## Erica647

May I ask which drivers you updated? The updated version of AI Suite caused issues for me so just curious.


----------



## TigerDS

I've updated AI suite and all possible drivers, chipset, etc...
but the issue with slow boot remained... it looked like AI was freezing at some point...
So eventually I rolled back the installation of AI Suite and returned to the previous version.
Issue resolved...


----------



## freddie333

Hi Guys (and Gals if any)

Wondering if you could recommend a matched setup for me - I came across this mobo while doing some research for a new system that I want to build as a project for my computer studies and I have to have one, mainly because of the dirt / dust protection and the high quality components.

Bear in mind that I am not a gamer / overclocker - but i realise that with a board like this I need to match it with a suitable CPU (i5?) Power Supply;
Memory, Hdd (SSD?)

Will be using it for general computing - Video, Pirate Bay etc

Does it run hot? Is it power hungry?

Any input would be appreciated

thanks

Freddie

London - UK


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Hi Guys (and Gals if any)
> Wondering if you could recommend a matched setup for me - I came across this mobo while doing some research for a new system that I want to build as a project for my computer studies and I have to have one, mainly because of the dirt / dust protection and the high quality components.
> Bear in mind that I am not a gamer / overclocker - but i realise that with a board like this I need to match it with a suitable CPU (i5?) Power Supply;
> Memory, Hdd (SSD?)
> Will be using it for general computing - Video, Pirate Bay etc
> Does it run hot? Is it power hungry?
> Any input would be appreciated
> thanks
> Freddie
> London - UK


This is a great Board and Cant go wrong with Purchasing it. Matched with a 3570k or 3770k, PSU in the neighborhood of 650w, grab a SSD and 8 to 16gb of ram pending on your needs. Vid card is generally what you can Afford. Does not run hot for me and shows no sign of being "Power Hungry" Do you have a Certain Budget in Mind?


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> This is a great Board and Cant go wrong with Purchasing it. Matched with a 3570k or 3770k, PSU in the neighborhood of 650w, grab a SSD and 8 to 16gb of ram pending on your needs. Vid card is generally what you can Afford. Does not run hot for me and shows no sign of being "Power Hungry" Do you have a Certain Budget in Mind?


Hey Hanover, thanks for reply - I can afford a decent Video card if i need to, and I will have to get one as my existing monitor only has a VGA input - otherwise with my needs maybe the inbuilt graphics would have been ok - I may have to get a case with a glass panel so i can see my baby.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> I just updated some software from Asus website and my Pc is running like crap I am going to revert back + My Ocz 120gb Vertex 3 is only getting a 5.9 index reading compared to the previous 7.9:
> Intel Chipset Driver V9.3.0.1021 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL) < Maybe the issue lies here for the slow boot to full desktop.
> Intel(R) Gigabit Ethernet Driver V17.2.0.0 for Windows XP/7/8 32bit & 64bit.(WHQL) < Lan takes longer to fire up and I get a connecting circle on start up. Before it would fly into the desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intel Rapid Start Technology Software V2.1.0.1002 for Windows Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit. Dont need this really installed anyways since I am not using it.
> These are some new official Asus drivers from September but I should of just left my PC alone it was running smooth until I updated.
> I also noticed this guy "Management Engine Interface V8.1.0.1263 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(WHQL)"
> & Intel Management Engine Firmware upgrade program
> For better Windows® 8 compatibility, this tool will update the Intel® Management Engine(ME) firmware to 8.1.
> Doesn't allow me to update the Firmware after installing Intel Management interface. Maybe it is for a new bios coming out because I saw the Windows 8 Bios settings manual which I clearly dont have on current 1504
> Going to Google what this does exactly but for now it is time to revert.


I grab the intel drivers from intel's site.

They already have gigabit ethernet 17.3 out. I don't install the extra junk it tries to install. I also disable some of the services.









I also downloaded the latest MEI drivers from there. I didn't see a big change.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Hi Guys (and Gals if any)
> Wondering if you could recommend a matched setup for me - I came across this mobo while doing some research for a new system that I want to build as a project for my computer studies and I have to have one, mainly because of the dirt / dust protection and the high quality components.
> Bear in mind that I am not a gamer / overclocker - but i realise that with a board like this I need to match it with a suitable CPU (i5?) Power Supply;
> Memory, Hdd (SSD?)


I agree that the high quality components and the five year warranty are really attractive amenities to this board. The thermal armor really isn't something that provides a performance gain although it does work extraordinarily well to protect the board and the PCIe slots via the included slot covers from dust.
I would go with an Ivy Bridge Core i5-3570K. I know you don't overclock, but as far as upgradeability, and even resale the unlocked "K" version of that CPU is well worth the extra $20.
For an SSD there are crazy good deals for the next week or so, but expect prices to rise after that as Samsung and other manufacturers are going to artificially throttle production to increase prices. The Samsung 830 drives are your best bet for price to performance, but I also recommend the Intel 330, and the OCZ Vertex 4 drives. If you need to save some money the OCZ Agility 3 and 4 series drives are a great buy.
The power supply is often an overlooked component. The most trusted brand I think is PC Power & Cooling. Their MKIII series is outstanding. If you don't want to pay a slight premium for those then go with a Corsair AX series. Either the AX 750 or AX 850 can be had for around $100. Still expensive when you consider the Corsair Builder Series is like only $35 for a 500W PSU, but you want to not skimp on this component with such a high end motherboard.
Memory is super easy right now. Prices are so incredibly low. 8GB (4GBx2 kits) are under $40 right now on newegg. Go with the Corsair Vengeance 1600. There is really absolutely no reason to go with higher speed memory despite some people liking to justify their purchases here on the forums. If 1866 memory is $4 more than ok fine, but 4x the price for >2000 speed memory? Yeah, no thanks.


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> I agree that the high quality components and the five year warranty are really attractive amenities to this board. The thermal armor really isn't something that provides a performance gain although it does work extraordinarily well to protect the board and the PCIe slots via the included slot covers from dust.
> I would go with an Ivy Bridge Core i5-3570K. I know you don't overclock, but as far as upgradeability, and even resale the unlocked "K" version of that CPU is well worth the extra $20.
> For an SSD there are crazy good deals for the next week or so, but expect prices to rise after that as Samsung and other manufacturers are going to artificially throttle production to increase prices. The Samsung 830 drives are your best bet for price to performance, but I also recommend the Intel 330, and the OCZ Vertex 4 drives. If you need to save some money the OCZ Agility 3 and 4 series drives are a great buy.
> The power supply is often an overlooked component. The most trusted brand I think is PC Power & Cooling. Their MKIII series is outstanding. If you don't want to pay a slight premium for those then go with a Corsair AX series. Either the AX 750 or AX 850 can be had for around $100. Still expensive when you consider the Corsair Builder Series is like only $35 for a 500W PSU, but you want to not skimp on this component with such a high end motherboard.
> Memory is super easy right now. Prices are so incredibly low. 8GB (4GBx2 kits) are under $40 right now on newegg. Go with the Corsair Vengeance 1600. There is really absolutely no reason to go with higher speed memory despite some people liking to justify their purchases here on the forums. If 1866 memory is $4 more than ok fine, but 4x the price for >2000 speed memory? Yeah, no thanks.


Thanks for valuable advice - I had the intel penciled in and was aware that the power supply is not considered as sexy as the other components, but when you think of its role-supplying various voltages - it plays a crucial role - Tell me, do you guys leave the side panel off so you can look at your artwork? does it aid air circulation to do that?


----------



## Hanoverfist

I recently got my window installed and it greatly cut down on the noise. It was slightly noisy with out. With what you will be running I see no need for more than 650w PSU . do buy a decent brand like what was already suggested. Also Browse the OCN Marketplace thread. Guys are always selling hardware and at good prices.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Hey Hanover, thanks for reply - I can afford a decent Video card if i need to, and I will have to get one as my existing monitor only has a VGA input - otherwise with my needs maybe the inbuilt graphics would have been ok - I may have to get a case with a glass panel so i can see my baby.


If your monitor only has VGA input than yes you will definitely need a dedicated graphics card as there is no analog DVI on the board. A GTS 450 can be had for less than $50 and will provide more than adequate performance for your needs.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Thanks for valuable advice - I had the intel penciled in and was aware that the power supply is not considered as sexy as the other components, but when you think of its role-supplying various voltages - it plays a crucial role - Tell me, do you guys leave the side panel off so you can look at your artwork? does it aid air circulation to do that?


Yes, chances are some components may run cooler, but nothing that good case airflow wouldn't also do. Leaving the side panel off is going to allow a lot of dust to accumulate inside of the case. That is why most cases nowadays have dust filters on the intake fans.


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> If your monitor only has VGA input than yes you will definitely need a dedicated graphics card as there is no analog DVI on the board. A GTS 450 can be had for less than $50 and will provide more than adequate performance for your needs.


Thanks - Just ordered the Sabertooth Z77 and the i5 3570K from Amazon.co.uk - will be looking into ordering the memory and PSU, plus a case - throw in an SSD and my original budget has nearly doubled, I imagine this is a common scenario for a build, especially for first timers.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Thanks - Just ordered the Sabertooth Z77 and the i5 3570K from Amazon.co.uk - will be looking into ordering the memory and PSU, plus a case - throw in an SSD and my original budget has nearly doubled, I imagine this is a common scenario for a build, especially for first timers.


Over Budget is a common scenario with anyone of us. not just first time users. Throw some Custom Water Cooling into the Mix and Watch the Money Fly out of Your Wallet..........


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Over Budget is a common scenario with anyone of us. not just first time users. Throw some Custom Water Cooling into the Mix and Watch the Money Fly out of Your Wallet..........


Already thinking about a KVM unit so I can switch between my current system, which has a couple of PCI cards i still want to run, and my new setup.

Do you guys use the SSD just for the system, and then load stuff onto externals? I have 3 internal Sata 2 drives at present which i manage through the bios. and 3 externals.


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Already thinking about a KVM unit so I can switch between my current system, which has a couple of PCI cards i still want to run, and my new setup.
> Do you guys use the SSD just for the system, and then load stuff onto externals? I have 3 internal Sata 2 drives at present which i manage through the bios. and 3 externals.


Just found Sean's hugely informative thread on SSD's - Answers all my questions


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Already thinking about a KVM unit so I can switch between my current system, which has a couple of PCI cards i still want to run, and my new setup.
> Do you guys use the SSD just for the system, and then load stuff onto externals? I have 3 internal Sata 2 drives at present which i manage through the bios. and 3 externals.


I run my ssd for just the OS and a few Programs.. so it stays mostly around 30% usage.. Everything else goes to Regular Old Spinners...









Yes good info here... http://www.overclock.net/f/355/ssd


----------



## Hanoverfist

Just installed some more light for this.. Makes the Sabertooth stand out a little better.


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I run my ssd for just the OS and a few Programs.. so it stays mostly around 30% usage.. Everything else goes to Regular Old Spinners...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes good info here... http://www.overclock.net/f/355/ssd


I must say that the information on this site is superb - I am looking forward to eventually setting everything up knowing that you guys are generous in your spreading of your knowledge and experience - i am studying the Comptia A+ syllabus for a general overview of computers, but joining this site will give me an insight into whats going down at the cutting edge


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> I must say that the information on this site is superb - I am looking forward to eventually setting everything up knowing that you guys are generous in your spreading of your knowledge and experience - i am studying the Comptia A+ syllabus for a general overview of computers, but joining this site will give me an insight into whats going down at the cutting edge


Everything you ever wanted to know about anything related to the subject is at your disposal here.. One of the Best Forums.. with Great People..


----------



## freddie333

This case seems to compliment the board - What do you think - would it look more at home in a war zone

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-CC-9011018-WW-Airflow-Mid-Tower/dp/B007S02GLQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_computers_1


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> This case seems to compliment the board - What do you think - would it look more at home in a war zone
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-CC-9011018-WW-Airflow-Mid-Tower/dp/B007S02GLQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_computers_1


I am more of a fan of black to be honest , but this will boil down to your own personal taste above all others. When i buy a new case I follow 2 Rules. firstly it HAS to appeal to my eye.. color .. shape.. and style.. Then 2 it has to hold all the Hardware that I am going to shove into it..








This is why i bought an Elysium Super Tower.. Love Black and Its HUGE.. Oh and #3 not too Expensive...
If i were going that route , maybe this i would entertain ..


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just installed some more light for this.. Makes the Sabertooth stand out a little better.
> ]


Beautiful!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> This case seems to compliment the board - What do you think - would it look more at home in a war zone
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-CC-9011018-WW-Airflow-Mid-Tower/dp/B007S02GLQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_computers_1


http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2340_30#post_18004345 I have the green one. I really like the case. It is only a midtower though, but it's doing a great job thus far!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Beautiful!


Thank you .. amazing what just a little more light did..


----------



## Geegeenoree

are there any RAM compatibility issues with this mobo?
thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geegeenoree*
> 
> are there any RAM compatibility issues with this mobo?
> thanks


Do you have a certain kit your thinking of using with it?


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Beautiful!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/2340_30#post_18004345 I have the green one. I really like the case. It is only a midtower though, but it's doing a great job thus far!


Hi Motherfo,

Any chance of confirming the dimensions for me - The suppliers quote the size as H:50.1 x W:23.2 x D:53.3 - It looks smaller to me on the Youtube reviews - if these dimensions are correct, that will suit me just fine.


----------



## ironroot

Hi all
I need some advice on a new CPU cooler for my new build.

CPU: i7-3770k
MB: Asus Sabertooth Z77
Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB)
Case: Old Cooler Master CM Stacker 830

I am thinking about a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo but I don't know if it will fit with my 4 sticks of memory

Any help would be great

Thanks all


----------



## samuraix20

Hello. I recently updated the BIOS to 1504 and the length of POST time is way longer than before. It stays in that state where the logo comes out saying "The Ultimate Force" for a long 8-10 seconds until it finally boots up the OS; during that time, I can't go into the BIOS until my gaming keyboard lights up.

I've set the POST delay to 1 second, USB functionality to Disabled instead of Partial, and a bunch of other things I can't remember but I know I've exhausted almost all the options in the Boot section of the BIOS.

I'm planning to reinstall the BIOS update again and see if there is any improvement but has anyone experienced this problem? If so, how did you resolve it?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Hi Motherfo,
> Any chance of confirming the dimensions for me - The suppliers quote the size as H:50.1 x W:23.2 x D:53.3 - It looks smaller to me on the Youtube reviews - if these dimensions are correct, that will suit me just fine.


Hey Freddie,

Sure thing. I'll do it tonight after work. Is that in centimeters? (looks like a confused American







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironroot*
> 
> Hi all
> I need some advice on a new CPU cooler for my new build.
> CPU: i7-3770k
> MB: Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB)
> Case: Old Cooler Master CM Stacker 830
> I am thinking about a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo but I don't know if it will fit with my 4 sticks of memory
> Any help would be great
> Thanks all


Evo is great if you are looking for a cheap cooler. H80/H100 are great options as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraix20*
> 
> Hello. I recently updated the BIOS to 1504 and the length of POST time is way longer than before. It stays in that state where the logo comes out saying "The Ultimate Force" for a long 8-10 seconds until it finally boots up the OS; during that time, I can't go into the BIOS until my gaming keyboard lights up.
> I've set the POST delay to 1 second, USB functionality to Disabled instead of Partial, and a bunch of other things I can't remember but I know I've exhausted almost all the options in the Boot section of the BIOS.
> I'm planning to reinstall the BIOS update again and see if there is any improvement but has anyone experienced this problem? If so, how did you resolve it?


Do you have external hard drives plugged in? Does the computer boot quickly if the keyboard is unplugged? Which ports are you using?
There is a fast boot option in believe in the bottom section of the memory section.


----------



## ironroot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Evo is great if you are looking for a cheap cooler. H80/H100 are great options as well.
> .


So the Evo will fit without blocking the ram?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironroot*
> 
> So the Evo will fit without blocking the ram?


Not positive on that. I'd search through the thread to see if others have both.

I feel like it would be a tightt squeeze or you'd have to install the memory then install the heatsink with the fan off first, and then attach it after.

Otherwise: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233304&Tpk=lp32gb

Low profile memory generally guarantees compatibility.

I recommended the H80/H100 because it completely clears up that worry of ram clearance.

You will probably need to take off a sidefan in order to close up the side so the 212 meets the height clearance as well.


----------



## Lesiunta

That's a beautiful piece of machinery you got going there after installing the lights!

What kind of LED lights are they? Looks phenomenal.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> That's a beautiful piece of machinery you got going there after installing the lights!
> What kind of LED lights are they? Looks phenomenal.


I think your talking about my Build. Please use the Quote button located under the post so others know who your comments are directed at.







Thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Some Night Shots of the Sabertooth...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> What kind of LED lights are they? Looks phenomenal.


An OCN member has these for sale and if interested send him a PM. There really isnt a brand on them, but they look Amazing..








http://www.overclock.net/u/145274/xd3adpoolx


----------



## Geegeenoree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Do you have a certain kit your thinking of using with it?


eh, i'm considering the G.Skill Ripjaws series, 16GB (2X8GB) at 1600. but MSY is very vague on the model of the parts they sell, that's all the information i have.
maybe also the Patriot Viper, also 2X8Gb and also 1600. same problem with the vagueness of the exact model.

thanks for helping out, mate


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Hey Freddie,
> Sure thing. I'll do it tonight after work. Is that in centimeters? (looks like a confused American
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Evo is great if you are looking for a cheap cooler. H80/H100 are great options as well.
> Do you have external hard drives plugged in? Does the computer boot quickly if the keyboard is unplugged? Which ports are you using?
> There is a fast boot option in believe in the bottom section of the memory section.


Hi Motherfo,

Thanks,yes, the dimensions are in cm which I should have stated - which roughly translates into inches: H:20 x W:9 x D: 21

Really like the look of the case - it has its own character and looks like it was made for the Sabertooth

Have a good day at work - due to the time difference I'm just getting out of bed.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ironroot*
> 
> Hi all
> I need some advice on a new CPU cooler for my new build.
> CPU: i7-3770k
> MB: Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB (4 x 8GB)
> Case: Old Cooler Master CM Stacker 830
> I am thinking about a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo but I don't know if it will fit with my 4 sticks of memory
> Any help would be great
> Thanks all


The 4th slot is fairly close to the socket. In any situation I don't think low profile RAM would be an issue, but with the ripjaws I understand your concern. Also remember the thermal armor over the VRM assembly is quite tall as well.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geegeenoree*
> 
> eh, i'm considering the G.Skill Ripjaws series, 16GB (2X8GB) at 1600. but MSY is very vague on the model of the parts they sell, that's all the information i have.
> maybe also the Patriot Viper, also 2X8Gb and also 1600. same problem with the vagueness of the exact model.
> thanks for helping out, mate


Corsair makes low profile Vengeance series RAM. You might want to look into that. Also, I wouldn't spend more money on 1866 or anything. You are right to stick with 1600. I would make sure though that you get modules that are 1.5V or lower with CAS of 9. You don't need to spend more for modules running at CAS of 8.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186


----------



## Jakusonfire

If you are not using the system for gaming then the new generation onboard graphics are fine. All you need is a HDMI to VGA adaptor.


----------



## IndexDotZach

Hey guys,

I just built a new gaming rig (first time building my own PC) and used the Sabertooth z77 as my Motherboard. Here is my build on PC-Part-Picker:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/iS9c

Or here:
Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Corsair H100 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Corsair Force Series GS 360GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB Video Card
Thermaltake VN300M1W2N ATX Full Tower Case
Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

I'm having some issues with it though, my PC randomly will restart. No error messages will come up or BSOD, just as if you flipped the power switch on and off again or hit a "reset" button. Usually when this happens it will restart AGAIN during the booting process. So, either during the BIOS loading screen or the Windows loading screen it will restart itself again. Sometimes it even gets caught in a reboot "loop" doing this over and over again. Sometimes it will bring me to the screen saying Windows was unable to start, and asked if I want to launch startup repair.

It's odd though because I am able to play Guilwars 2 for hours on end, and not have a reboot occur. But it seems if I am doing anything else it will reboot itself within a half hour or so. I've had it reboot during games, browsing the net, etc. I tried just booting it up into windows and letting it sit there idle, reboots after a certain time for that. Then I tried just booting into the BIOS, and it will randomly reboot just sitting in the BIOS too.

I don't think it's due to any overheating either, been monitoring CPU/GPU temps and they have been staying pretty low, GPU got up to the 70C range during some Nvidia stress tests I've been doing, and the CPUs have stayed in the 30's and low 40s. Plus the reboots happen when the system is just idle or just in BIOS, so probably not load/stress induced.

I'm using the newest BIOS version (1504) which was what came on my MoBo, all I did was load the drivers and whatnot from the MoBo disk that came with it, then downloaded drivers from my nVidia disk and went to the Nvidia website and got the latest driver.

Here are two pictures I have taken. One of my BIOS home screen. The other is of my components in my case. One thing I have a question about... there is a red LED that's lit up right by my USB 3.0 input that you can see in the one image... is this supposed tobe red? Or green? Not sure if it being red means there is a problem with something.




Anyways, some input or advice as to what might be causing these reboots would be much appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IndexDotZach*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I just built a new gaming rig (first time building my own PC) and used the Sabertooth z77 as my Motherboard. Here is my build on PC-Part-Picker:
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/iS9c
> Or here:
> Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
> Corsair H100 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> Asus SABERTOOTH Z77 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
> G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
> Corsair Force Series GS 360GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
> EVGA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB Video Card
> Thermaltake VN300M1W2N ATX Full Tower Case
> Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply
> I'm having some issues with it though, my PC randomly will restart. No error messages will come up or BSOD, just as if you flipped the power switch on and off again or hit a "reset" button. Usually when this happens it will restart AGAIN during the booting process. So, either during the BIOS loading screen or the Windows loading screen it will restart itself again. Sometimes it even gets caught in a reboot "loop" doing this over and over again. Sometimes it will bring me to the screen saying Windows was unable to start, and asked if I want to launch startup repair.
> It's odd though because I am able to play Guilwars 2 for hours on end, and not have a reboot occur. But it seems if I am doing anything else it will reboot itself within a half hour or so. I've had it reboot during games, browsing the net, etc. I tried just booting it up into windows and letting it sit there idle, reboots after a certain time for that. Then I tried just booting into the BIOS, and it will randomly reboot just sitting in the BIOS too.
> I don't think it's due to any overheating either, been monitoring CPU/GPU temps and they have been staying pretty low, GPU got up to the 70C range during some Nvidia stress tests I've been doing, and the CPUs have stayed in the 30's and low 40s. Plus the reboots happen when the system is just idle or just in BIOS, so probably not load/stress induced.
> I'm using the newest BIOS version (1504) which was what came on my MoBo, all I did was load the drivers and whatnot from the MoBo disk that came with it, then downloaded drivers from my nVidia disk and went to the Nvidia website and got the latest driver.
> Here are two pictures I have taken. One of my BIOS home screen. The other is of my components in my case. One thing I have a question about... there is a red LED that's lit up right by my USB 3.0 input that you can see in the one image... is this supposed tobe red? Or green? Not sure if it being red means there is a problem with something.
> 
> 
> Anyways, some input or advice as to what might be causing these reboots would be much appreciated.
> Thanks!


That's a HDD boot device LED error with the red LED lighting up.
Seeing it's next to the USB connector try unplugging the front USB plug to see if it's the front USB ports at fault, if it's still red it could be a faulty HDD, cable or even optical drive, remove one at a time and reboot.
I'd also move the video card into PCIE slot 1.
Oh and don't forget installing the free dust slot covers


----------



## asuman1179

That is a nice looking setup!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Some Night Shots of the Sabertooth...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice looking setup!


Thanks Brother...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IndexDotZach*
> 
> Anyways, some input or advice as to what might be causing these reboots would be much appreciated.
> Thanks!


I have seen this exact problem by another poster a few months back.. cant remember what the solution was but it was fixed.. Might have been AI suite or some USB device the guy had .. IF i find it i will post back.


----------



## majnu

In Ai Overclock Tuner I only have options for Auto or Manual, but not XMP. I have the latest 1504 bios. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong as I'm trying to have a go at overcloking.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> In Ai Overclock Tuner I only have options for Auto or Manual, but not XMP. I have the latest 1504 bios. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong as I'm trying to have a go at overcloking.


What CPU are you Using? I assume You have another build now besides Dead Horse? There are a lot of bios screen shots here .. let me know what your looking for Clock wise.. I will post up 45 and 47 multi for a 3770k if you want.. Also I Overclock only through the BIOS .. I dont use any OC software ...


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> In Ai Overclock Tuner I only have options for Auto or Manual, but not XMP. I have the latest 1504 bios. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong as I'm trying to have a go at overcloking.


What memory are you using? The XMP option may not appear depending on your RAMs.


----------



## TheNovice

Hi guys,

About to get the Asus Sabertooth Z77 or the Maximus V Formula.
However I am in doubt regarding RAM.

Can I use RAM which is not found in the ASUS vendor list: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf
Using the Corsair website "Guaranteed-Compatible Memory for yourAsus SABERTOOTH Z77": http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/
I actually find memory which is not on the Asus list. Is it simply a case of the Asus list not being up to date?

I have found the below set which i can get at a reasonable price locally.

CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 16GB (4 x 4GB) CAS9 2133mhz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230

Can I expect this memory to work with the Sabertooth?

\M


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi guys,
> About to get the Asus Sabertooth Z77 or the Maximus V Formula.
> However I am in doubt regarding RAM.
> Can I use RAM which is not found in the ASUS vendor list: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf
> Using the Corsair website "Guaranteed-Compatible Memory for yourAsus SABERTOOTH Z77": http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/
> I actually find memory which is not on the Asus list. Is it simply a case of the Asus list not being up to date?
> I have found the below set which i can get at a reasonable price locally.
> CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 16GB (4 x 4GB) CAS9 2133mhz
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230
> Can I expect this memory to work with the Sabertooth?
> \M


I suspect that will work.just fine. Don't hold your breath and wait for asus to update the QVL. Won't happen.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi guys,
> About to get the Asus Sabertooth Z77 or the Maximus V Formula.
> However I am in doubt regarding RAM.
> Can I use RAM which is not found in the ASUS vendor list: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf
> Using the Corsair website "Guaranteed-Compatible Memory for yourAsus SABERTOOTH Z77": http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/
> I actually find memory which is not on the Asus list. Is it simply a case of the Asus list not being up to date?
> I have found the below set which i can get at a reasonable price locally.
> CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 16GB (4 x 4GB) CAS9 2133mhz
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233230
> Can I expect this memory to work with the Sabertooth?
> \M


Agreed with above poster. ASUS has a QVL that has some memory that specifically tested in their board, but you are by no way limited to just that. Surprisingly enough though that ASUS doesn't list all of Corsair's offerrings on there as they have a close relationship with Corsair. They are just down the street from each other actually. Anyway, it is a lot of work to update QVLs. What is more important is the speed that has been validated on the board. I think the Sabertooth has been validated up to 2400 actually, but there is really no reason to run anything above 1600 as far as cost goes. The Corsair Vengeance 1600 memory is just fine and works wonderfully. there are special 1.35V modules they offer now, but might be a price premium.

As far as the memory you linked above, you'll see no performance improvement over 1600 that would justify over a 2x price increase. You might get 5 fps in a game if you are lucky, but I wouldn't count on even that. 16GB should be under $100. Also, you should get 8GBx2 and not 4 DIMMs of 4GB each.


----------



## ibleedspeed

Hey guys I was hoping for some pointers or opinions on the rig I intend to build. I have never done a full gaming build this will be my first though i have built a few basic mid towers. As i have been researching and following reviews on the parts i have chosen some people say ivy bridge may not be all that great... keep in mind i do a lot with my pc not just gaming i am looking for a very flexible build that wont back me into a corner.

Anyhow here is the list of parts I have chosen for the basic build with no graphics card yet chosen... saving that for last as it may end up being something i have to purchase later down the road after the basic build.

Thermaltake : Overseer RX-I full tower case

Asus Sabertooth Z77 LGA1155 Motherboard

Intel Core I7 3770k Ivy Bridge 3.5 GHZ Processor

Thermaltake Toughpower grand TPG-1200 M 1200 watt power supply

Corsair Vengence 16GB 2X8GB DDR3 1600 Ram

Samsung 830 series 256GB SSD for my OS

LG Black Bluray writer

And that is what i have in my wishlist so far on newegg.. for graphics I am thinking of the nvidia GTX 680 but that will have to wait a few weeks until i can afford it.

any opinions about this build and a graphics card are appreciated... if you think i can cut costs anywhere without compromising performance and power please help.
also how will the stock cpu cooler do for mid level gaming?
Thanks Guys.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibleedspeed*
> 
> Hey guys I was hoping for some pointers or opinions on the rig I intend to build. I have never done a full gaming build this will be my first though i have built a few basic mid towers. As i have been researching and following reviews on the parts i have chosen some people say ivy bridge may not be all that great... keep in mind i do a lot with my pc not just gaming i am looking for a very flexible build that wont back me into a corner.
> Anyhow here is the list of parts I have chosen for the basic build with no graphics card yet chosen... saving that for last as it may end up being something i have to purchase later down the road after the basic build.
> Thermaltake : Overseer RX-I full tower case
> Asus Sabertooth Z77 LGA1155 Motherboard
> Intel Core I7 3770k Ivy Bridge 3.5 GHZ Processor
> Thermaltake Toughpower grand TPG-1200 M 1200 watt power supply
> Corsair Vengence 16GB 2X8GB DDR3 1600 Ram
> Samsung 830 series 256GB SSD for my OS
> LG Black Bluray writer
> And that is what i have in my wishlist so far on newegg.. for graphics I am thinking of the nvidia GTX 680 but that will have to wait a few weeks until i can afford it.
> any opinions about this build and a graphics card are appreciated... if you think i can cut costs anywhere without compromising performance and power please help.
> also how will the stock cpu cooler do for mid level gaming?
> Thanks Guys.


Your parts are fine but do yourself a favor and get a decent air cooler for that CPU. Coolermaster 212 or something should be good. Just don't use the stock cooler. It's junk. And to save a few bucks grab a 670. Performance is near that of a 680.

Also for a few more bucks consider the Switch 810 full tower 154.99. Better window and more room Compared to the The Overseer. I know everyone and the Brother has one but just my opinion.. If your in the States...http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146089


----------



## Geegeenoree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Corsair makes low profile Vengeance series RAM. You might want to look into that. Also, I wouldn't spend more money on 1866 or anything. You are right to stick with 1600. I would make sure though that you get modules that are 1.5V or lower with CAS of 9. You don't need to spend more for modules running at CAS of 8.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186


thanks, but i live in Aus, so basically amazon and newegg is a nono, which sucks absolute balls since i could save about 400 bucks. good advice, i'll look into the vengeance LP.


----------



## Geegeenoree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibleedspeed*
> 
> Hey guys I was hoping for some pointers or opinions on the rig I intend to build. I have never done a full gaming build this will be my first though i have built a few basic mid towers. As i have been researching and following reviews on the parts i have chosen some people say ivy bridge may not be all that great... keep in mind i do a lot with my pc not just gaming i am looking for a very flexible build that wont back me into a corner.
> Anyhow here is the list of parts I have chosen for the basic build with no graphics card yet chosen... saving that for last as it may end up being something i have to purchase later down the road after the basic build.
> Thermaltake : Overseer RX-I full tower case
> Asus Sabertooth Z77 LGA1155 Motherboard
> Intel Core I7 3770k Ivy Bridge 3.5 GHZ Processor
> Thermaltake Toughpower grand TPG-1200 M 1200 watt power supply
> Corsair Vengence 16GB 2X8GB DDR3 1600 Ram
> Samsung 830 series 256GB SSD for my OS
> LG Black Bluray writer
> And that is what i have in my wishlist so far on newegg.. for graphics I am thinking of the nvidia GTX 680 but that will have to wait a few weeks until i can afford it.
> any opinions about this build and a graphics card are appreciated... if you think i can cut costs anywhere without compromising performance and power please help.
> also how will the stock cpu cooler do for mid level gaming?
> Thanks Guys.


i see no reason for so much power, maybe get like a 800W? 1200 is a bit overkill IMO.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geegeenoree*
> 
> thanks, but i live in Aus, so basically amazon and newegg is a nono, which sucks absolute balls since i could save about 400 bucks. good advice, i'll look into the vengeance LP.


I highly recommend PC case gear if you live in Aus.

http://pccasegear.com/


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geegeenoree*
> 
> i see no reason for so much power, maybe get like a 800W? 1200 is a bit overkill IMO.


I agree.. No need for a 1200 unless your planning to add more Graphics cards later.. A 750w will run that just fine.. Its all i use for this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Thats a little 750w Corsair TX


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Hi Motherfo,
> Thanks,yes, the dimensions are in cm which I should have stated - which roughly translates into inches: H:20 x W:9 x D: 21
> Really like the look of the case - it has its own character and looks like it was made for the Sabertooth
> Have a good day at work - due to the time difference I'm just getting out of bed.


Hey Freddie,

The measurements are accurate. Sorry for the delay.

It's not a full tower and it's not exactly a big midtower, but there was plenty of room for my setup inside








The only thing is things can get a bit noisy given how many 120mm fans you can connect.
I'd recommend the NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller. It's cheap and very functional.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What CPU are you Using? I assume You have another build now besides Dead Horse? There are a lot of bios screen shots here .. let me know what your looking for Clock wise.. I will post up 45 and 47 multi for a 3770k if you want.. Also I Overclock only through the BIOS .. I dont use any OC software ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> What memory are you using? The XMP option may not appear depending on your RAMs.


My memory (Samsung Green) doesn't support it apparently. Disaster averted


----------



## ibleedspeed

Hey thanks for all the suggestions guys. I will def add an air cooler to the setup and check out the gtx 670.. as for the case i know a lot of gamers hate thermaltake but the overseer just suits me. as for the power supply like i said i dont want to limit myself so it is for future possible sli setup. i am aware its overkill buy they do not carry the lower wattage thermaltake tough grand series on newegg i was going to go with 1000 watt..







thanks for all the help again.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibleedspeed*
> 
> Hey thanks for all the suggestions guys. I will def add an air cooler to the setup and check out the gtx 670.. as for the case i know a lot of gamers hate thermaltake but the overseer just suits me. as for the power supply like i said i dont want to limit myself so it is for future possible sli setup. i am aware its overkill buy they do not carry the lower wattage thermaltake tough grand series on newegg i was going to go with 1000 watt..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for all the help again.


1200W and even 1000W is a bit overkill IMO even for upgrading later on. No reason for 1100W or above unless you are running Triple SLI.
Also, although the Samsung 830 series SSDs (though the 840 should be available soon) is the best in my opinion for an SSD to buy you wouldn't be sacrificing anything going with a drive that is on sale or has a great rebate. Even an OCZ Agility 4 would yield excellent results. No real noticeable real world difference in performance. I know you were looking to cut costs a bit.

I agree with the assessment that Thermaltake is just trying to capitalize on the millionaire gamer that wants flashy plastic flares and EXTREME naming schemes lol and provides a dubious level of quality at best. Too bad Thermalright isn't still in business. I think they got a bad rap though since their name was so similar to a despised brand and they were the little guy, but they sure did make excellent full copper block heatsinks.

As far as the PSU goes, you are probably going to be better off with a greater quality yet lower wattage unit such as from PC Power & Cooling. It wouldn't save you much money, but you'd be happier with it I think. If you can get lucky, used Corsair AX850 PSUs can be had for right around $100.

Here are some current deals:

Corsair AX750 for $145 with promo code PSU106
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139016

ASUS Blu-Ray Burner for $52.98 use promo code EMCYTZT2282
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135252

Antec DF-35 case for $45 no promo code needed
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129088

OCZ Agility 4 128GB SSD for $70 use promo code EMCYTZT2284
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227807

Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600 2x4GB kit low profile DIMMs for $37 use promo code BTEJNNJ36
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186

Also it should be noted that Corsair has 1.35V modules out now at a slight premium:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233199


----------



## ibleedspeed

actually i said gtx 680 was what i was looking at but it was actually the EVGA gtx 670 ftw 2gb model for around 400 bucks. so i got to reading the reviews on the egg and turns out that tons of these are defect units.... great reviews for the ones that worked but im certainly not into the idea of getting a doa card or a fail a month down the road.... so witch brand 670 were you guys referring to?

gotta be at least a 256 gb ssd for me im a digital packrat. i will look into a lower wattage psu... thanks. not gonna budge on the case though.... i have looked at tons of cases and settled pretty firmly on the overseer and with nothing but great reviews why second guess it? the worst complaint was hard to remove side panels and a bad molex connector.. not deal killers at all.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibleedspeed*
> 
> actually i said gtx 680 was what i was looking at but it was actually the EVGA gtx 670 ftw 2gb model for around 400 bucks. so i got to reading the reviews on the egg and turns out that tons of these are defect units.... great reviews for the ones that worked but im certainly not into the idea of getting a doa card or a fail a month down the road.... so witch brand 670 were you guys referring to?
> gotta be at least a 256 gb ssd for me im a digital packrat. i will look into a lower wattage psu... thanks. not gonna budge on the case though.... i have looked at tons of cases and settled pretty firmly on the overseer and with nothing but great reviews why second guess it? the worst complaint was hard to remove side panels and a bad molex connector.. not deal killers at all.


Dude this IS OCN.. OVERKILL is Encouraged. Get the Biggest Baddest Machine you can afford.. SPEND SPEND SPEND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Get a 680 if you want and get the biggest PSU you can afford.. Hell thats How i Build..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibleedspeed*
> 
> actually i said gtx 680 was what i was looking at but it was actually the EVGA gtx 670 ftw 2gb model for around 400 bucks. so i got to reading the reviews on the egg and turns out that tons of these are defect units....


I wouldnt put to much stock into those reviews at the Egg., Ask your question in here about the Evga 670 these dudes will know.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1255980/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/1630


----------



## IndexDotZach

Well actually, I realized after posting that the red "Boot Device LED" is only lit up red like that when I am in the BIOS. Which I guess makes sense because I am not booted up into any drive/device. But I guess I only seemed to notice it lit up when I was in the BIOS. Otherwise the system boots up just fine every time, aside from when it has the random restarts/reboots.

I moved the GPU to the first PCI-e slot at the advice of a friend of mine, and after looking it up in the Asus manual that for "best performance" it should be in the first PCI-e slot there. But my PC is still rebooting/restarting randomly even after moving the GPU to the top slot.

I still can't narrow down these random reboots/restarts though.

One thing I did, was take out my GPU entirely and just boot up with the onboard graphics and connected my monitor via an HDMI cable. And my computer doesn't seem to be randomly restarting/rebooting itself anymore. I've had myself logged into windows with just the onboard graphics for about 5 hours now (which is the longest it's ever gone without rebooting/restarting). But then putting the graphics card back in and booting back up causes the reboots to occur again.

Any suggestions? I was reading a thread on Toms Hardware about almost this exact same problem someone was having and they said that they replaced their PSU. Apparently his PSU was randomly spiking in voltage, causing the system to flicker power and restart itself. Although I don't have another PSU to test this with.

So yeah, anymore recommendations would be good!

Thanks!


----------



## ibleedspeed

sounds like solid advice i will give the 670 thread a look. the evga seems to be the bad one... man after skimming this thread i see most of you guys skipped having to worry about an air cooler fitting the sabertoothe armor by just going right to liquid cooled....







suggestions for a simple to setup water cooler? I have to tackle my cpu cooling solution and video card then my shopping list will be finished.

P.S. the thermaltake tough grand calls to me due to the sleek look and red and black theme to match the sabertoothe


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

Do you guys know where I can download the latest drivers for my motherboard? I believe that the drivers on the Asus site is not always the latest.

Edit :

Also how can I learn the latest driver version of the motherboard drivers I have? Such as USB, Lan, Intel Chipset etc...


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> Do you guys know where I can download the latest drivers for my motherboard? I believe that the drivers on the Asus site is not always the latest.


Nowhere...









B7 meh...


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> Hey Freddie,
> The measurements are accurate. Sorry for the delay.
> It's not a full tower and it's not exactly a big midtower, but there was plenty of room for my setup inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing is things can get a bit noisy given how many 120mm fans you can connect.
> I'd recommend the NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller. It's cheap and very functional.


Thanks a lot Motherfo, for some reason one of the unboxings on youtube made the case look a bit on the small side but on further research the case looks fine and your confirmation of the dimensions
gave me the ok to order it which i have just done - My living room tends to dimly lit most of the time so to brighten it up a bit I went for the Artic White - which may or may not be a mistake - will find out when it arrives - The Sabertooth and CPU should be delivered today and I am looking for a modular power supply, some memory, an SSD, a Sata 3 HDD, an Anti static mat. and maybe a little internal light so i can
admire whats going on in there.

As I am not a gamer (yet) I do not think I will be running all the little fans - unless otherwise instructed

As I mentioned before, original budget gone up in smoke, but I wanna get as good a system a s I can, while I can.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> Thanks a lot Motherfo, for some reason one of the unboxings on youtube made the case look a bit on the small side but on further research the case looks fine and your confirmation of the dimensions
> gave me the ok to order it which i have just done - My living room tends to dimly lit most of the time so to brighten it up a bit I went for the Artic White - which may or may not be a mistake - will find out when it arrives - The Sabertooth and CPU should be delivered today and I am looking for a modular power supply, some memory, an SSD, a Sata 3 HDD, an Anti static mat. and maybe a little internal light so i can
> admire whats going on in there.
> As I am not a gamer (yet) I do not think I will be running all the little fans - unless otherwise instructed
> As I mentioned before, original budget gone up in smoke, but I wanna get as good a system a s I can, while I can.


Start a build log here if you feel like Documenting the build. Can be fun and you can get some Really Good Feedback as well http://www.overclock.net/f/165/intel-build-logs

It keeps everything in one spot ..and keeps this thread focused mainly on the Board itself..









Congrats on getting started


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Start a build log here if you feel like Documenting the build. Can be fun and you can get some Really Good Feedback as well http://www.overclock.net/f/165/intel-build-logs
> It keeps everything in one spot ..and keeps this thread focused mainly on the Board itself..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on getting started


As soon as the gear arrives I will take some pics and give get some feedback.

The consensus seems to be to buy everything at once so you can set it up and find out if everything works but I do not want to order stuff and have to send it back after changing mind.

I saw build on Youtube - someone from newegg- stating it was a good idea to rig up everything outside the case as any potential troubleshooting
would be easier to manage - sounds like good advice?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freddie333*
> 
> As soon as the gear arrives I will take some pics and give get some feedback.
> The consensus seems to be to buy everything at once so you can set it up and find out if everything works but I do not want to order stuff and have to send it back after changing mind.
> I saw build on Youtube - someone from newegg- stating it was a good idea to rig up everything outside the case as any potential troubleshooting
> would be easier to manage - sounds like good advice?


You can do that if you want. But after 12 plus yrs of doing this , I have never built outside of a case. I like having the Board and other components Grounded to the case.. It is totally up to you though how you proceed. Just saying.. Get a build log started.. I will Subscribe









You can start your first page with a Parts list and a small introduction about yourself and what your plans are with the build.. Kinda like a Pre Build Check list.. This gets others interested and who knows some might Sub to it. Good Luck


----------



## freddie333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You can do that if you want. But after 12 plus yrs of doing this , I have never built outside of a case. I like having the Board and other components Grounded to the case.. It is totally up to you though how you proceed. Just saying.. Get a build log started.. I will Subscribe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can start your first page with a Parts list and a small introduction about yourself and what your plans are with the build.. Kinda like a Pre Build Check list.. This gets others interested and who knows some might Sub to it. Good Luck


I can see merit in both cases - grounding the system is sound engineering, and as I am doing computer studies, having hopefully a working motherboard with all its cables connected to its relative components would be a good project exercise for me.

I read somewhere that the OCZ power supply cable lenghs were quite short - would they pose a problem in a Corsair C70 Mid Tower?


----------



## majnu

Hi there peeps, I installed a Creative Titanium HD PCIE and it can only go onto the top slot due to me having an SLI setup. Due to this I had to remove the 35mm fan, is this a design fault by Asus? Surely they should have considered that people would use the top slot.

This is my sound card btw:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003RRY3WO/ref=asc_df_B003RRY3WO9932614?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B003RRY3WO


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Hi there peeps, I installed a Creative Titanium HD PCIE and it can only go onto the top slot due to me having an SLI setup. Due to this I had to remove the 35mm fan, is this a design fault by Asus? Surely they should have considered that people would use the top slot.
> This is my sound card btw:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003RRY3WO/ref=asc_df_B003RRY3WO9932614?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B003RRY3WO


I dont think its a design flow. I know what you mean though. Its just if you are going to use the top PCI slot than you will say goodbye to the turbo fan. That's it.

Not everyone has a SLI system. And not every SLI might disable the middle PCI slot.


----------



## majnu

My middle slot is clear, but I'm not going to compromise air flow to the GPU's by sticking a PCIE card in the middle or bottom slot and block the air intakes. The fan serves a function and has a purpose, by putting it in a "stupid" position and not considering that people may want to populate the top PCIE slot is just a bad design. It should have been placed somewhere else. Ideally at the bottom PCIE slot.


----------



## hacko2

With some modifications could adapt a Corsair H80 for Armor MX+ and Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I dont think its a design flow. I know what you mean though. Its just if you are going to use the top PCI slot than you will say goodbye to the turbo fan. That's it.
> 
> Not everyone has a SLI system. And not every SLI might disable the middle PCI slot.


I consider it a design flaw.









They could have set the fan a bit lower so that the card would clear it and still get the benefits of the double assist fan.

I personally decided to take out the assist fan at that spot so I could put my soundcard in. My P5Q deluxe had a NB heatsink and it was angled in a way that it wouldn't interfere with whatever is in that 1x PCIE slot. I was annoyed by this initially, but with 1 assist fan in the back, temps seem to be fine.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> I consider it a design flaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They could have set the fan a bit lower so that the card would clear it and still get the benefits of the double assist fan.
> I personally decided to take out the assist fan at that spot so I could put my soundcard in. My P5Q deluxe had a NB heatsink and it was angled in a way that it wouldn't interfere with whatever is in that 1x PCIE slot. I was annoyed by this initially, but with 1 assist fan in the back, temps seem to be fine.


The assist fans might lower some temps by 1ºC. They are not that useful and are very annoying when they ramp up and down in speed. You definitely need to set the ramp up and slow down times to the slowest possible in Fan Xpert 2.
Having said that, there is really no reason to use them. The biggest feature would be to have some air circulation after you shutdown your computer as the default I think is 1 minute after shutdown. Would be a lot more beneficial though to use the case fans for this in my opinion. You could use the assist fan header at the top of the board for you rear exhaust case fan. I have done that and been happy with the results.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I dont think its a design flow. I know what you mean though. Its just if you are going to use the top PCI slot than you will say goodbye to the turbo fan. That's it.


I'm not sure how a card in the top slot interferes with the assist fan unless the card you are using has an extremely thick backplate on the PCB. Also, I'm not sure how SLI would interfere with the center PCI slot either unless you were using a hard PCB bridge made for a triple SLI setup or something maybe.


----------



## cutty1998

Just got the Z77 Sabertooth today ! for a build I am doing for my son. I have heard this board is finicky as to which memory brand it will boot with . I have Corsair Vengance PC1500 - 1866Mhz 4x4 16GB kit. Am I ok with these 2 ? Thanx if anyone has any answers.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Just got the Z77 Sabertooth today ! for a build I am doing for my son. I have heard this board is finicky as to which memory brand it will boot with . I have Corsair Vengance PC1500 - 1866Mhz 4x4 16GB kit. Am I ok with these 2 ? Thanx if anyone has any answers.


Should be just fine.
Happy Building.


----------



## tech-guy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gauntlet3h*
> 
> whew just finished assembling. I did run into a problem that my H100 in a push pull config is in a tight fit with the 6 motherboard power cable in my Cosmos II case. I hope I don't damage the cable it is pressed up against it.
> Other than that I'm having a hard time finding a overclocking guide that is specific to the sabertooth Bios.


I had the same issue with my box but I took the risk and so far nothing wrong. Good luck and be patient cause Cosmo II is a huge box but I am not sure why they made such a tight fit...


----------



## thegane20100

hey guys ihave this board too but ihave a smal problem with it

ihave a 16gb of ram ripjawz
but the board shows just 8 in bios and in windows and the four of them working because i r.m.a and they were fine

can you help me plz


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thegane20100*
> 
> hey guys ihave this board too but ihave a smal problem with it
> ihave a 16gb of ram ripjawz
> but the board shows just 8 in bios and in windows and the four of them working because i r.m.a and they were fine
> can you help me plz


I would try using the memOK button to reset the profiles to something relatively known stable and see if the DIMMs are sensed correctly. I would also check the physical functionality of the slots by taking the two DIMMs it does see and placing those in the other 2 slots without the other ones in. If it does sense those just fine then it is still a mystery... otherwise I would check to see if the slots are disabled in BIOS. If they are not disabled then there is a problem with the board.


----------



## iARDAs

SO folks I installed the Lan driver from the Asus's site for my sabertooth Z77

Its the version 17.2.0.0 Intel Gigabit Eternet Driver

However I had issues with Win7 and Win8

The issue is that when I start up my windows the lan takes about a minute to load and until it loads up the other programs do not work. I see a blue circle spinning and spinning and spinning as if it is trying to find a server to connect or something.

Anyone experienced this problem?

I am connected wired btw.


----------



## tech-guy

Hello Guys,

I wanted to post this for everyone to please help me.

I just built my PC this weekend and I am getting the following error when Windows loads up:

I did downloaded the newest version of Asus Suite II from www.asus.com



Any help will be very much appreciated.

Thanks

JOhn


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> SO folks I installed the Lan driver from the Asus's site for my sabertooth Z77
> Its the version 17.2.0.0 Intel Gigabit Eternet Driver
> However I had issues with Win7 and Win8
> The issue is that when I start up my windows the lan takes about a minute to load and until it loads up the other programs do not work. I see a blue circle spinning and spinning and spinning as if it is trying to find a server to connect or something.
> Anyone experienced this problem?
> I am connected wired btw.


Hey man!

I noticed the same thing with the latest driver too - mine takes a few seconds not minutes.

But I'm pretty sure this was the case with the old driver as well - possibly less waiting to actually connect (not the times you are reporting though)
Now that I think about it, heck I remember this happening on the P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 with my 2600K.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Hey man!
> I noticed the same thing with the latest driver too - mine takes a few seconds not minutes.
> But I'm pretty sure this was the case with the old driver as well - possibly less waiting to actually connect (not the times you are reporting though)
> Now that I think about it, heck I remember this happening on the P8Z68 DELUXE/GEN3 with my 2600K.


I hate it

Today i installed Win8 again to my system with the latest build and this time i DID NOT install the LAN drivers on the Asus page. Everything works just fine. Win8 probably took care of it for me. I am staying away from that driver to be honest.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> SO folks I installed the Lan driver from the Asus's site for my sabertooth Z77
> Its the version 17.2.0.0 Intel Gigabit Eternet Driver
> However I had issues with Win7 and Win8
> The issue is that when I start up my windows the lan takes about a minute to load and until it loads up the other programs do not work. I see a blue circle spinning and spinning and spinning as if it is trying to find a server to connect or something.
> Anyone experienced this problem?
> I am connected wired btw.


Have you Tried going back to the Network Driver Thats on the Original Mother Board CD. I have zero Issues with it. 11.13.51.0 Dated 7/20/2011
I guess if you want the latest and greatest though this wont help you much









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I hate it
> Today i installed Win8 again to my system with the latest build and this time i DID NOT install the LAN drivers on the Asus page. Everything works just fine. Win8 probably took care of it for me. I am staying away from that driver to be honest.


Ah there you go..


----------



## AznDud

is BIOS 1304 pretty solid?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznDud*
> 
> is BIOS 1304 pretty solid?


Nice Avatar...








1504 has been Rock solid for me. Zero issues.. Why 1304?


----------



## og4tcm

Hey guys, great to see so many other Sabertooth owners. I'm having two problems, seemingly unrelated but perhaps they are. I've updated to 1504 bios. First issue, I have my OS on the SSD, when I shut down from windows the screen, keyboard and mouse turn off, but all the internal hardware stays on (fans lights etc). I can't seem to find out what's up with it. Not a big deal, I just hold the power button in and nothing is damaged or lost. It restarts fine though, so that's the lesser problem, more of a nuisance. The real problem is overclocking. I've tried a few times using the auto boost, and the Asus Auto OC, as well as manual settings. Every situation produces the same results, my computer will restart, and never post, then restart again on an infinite loop(I even let it go for 30 mins one time on the Auto OC tool) help! What am I doing wrong or what could be a potential issue?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> Hey guys, great to see so many other Sabertooth owners. I'm having two problems, seemingly unrelated but perhaps they are. I've updated to 1504 bios. First issue, I have my OS on the SSD, when I shut down from windows the screen, keyboard and mouse turn off, but all the internal hardware stays on (fans lights etc). I can't seem to find out what's up with it. Not a big deal, I just hold the power button in and nothing is damaged or lost. It restarts fine though, so that's the lesser problem, more of a nuisance. The real problem is overclocking. I've tried a few times using the auto boost, and the Asus Auto OC, as well as manual settings. Every situation produces the same results, my computer will restart, and never post, then restart again on an infinite loop(I even let it go for 30 mins one time on the Auto OC tool) help! What am I doing wrong or what could be a potential issue?


When your stuck in an infinite reboot loop like that its either under volt on the cpu or your memory. I do not use Auto OC.. and can only help you with Old school method of Overclocking through bios changes Manually. I am not a fan of any other way.. Are you still using the 2500k u have listed in your sig?


----------



## falcon2099

Anyone having issues with Virtu MVP?? It was working great for a month, but now when I launch any game where it is enabled I get a pop up before the game saying "The program has expired". I am running ver 2.1.115a.23214 which is the most current version. In the about box it dies say that "license activated" but it does not seem to be enabled as the in-game icon does not pop up for the few seconds it used to.

I realize this may not be the right thread to be posting in but the Virtu MVP does come with the driver CD and downloadable from the driver support page at asus.com


----------



## og4tcm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> When your stuck in an infinite reboot loop like that its either under volt on the cpu or your memory. I do not use Auto OC.. and can only help you with Old school method of Overclocking through bios changes Manually. I am not a fan of any other way.. Are you still using the 2500k u have listed in your sig?


Yeah, I'm rocking the 2500k.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> Hey guys, great to see so many other Sabertooth owners. I'm having two problems, seemingly unrelated but perhaps they are. I've updated to 1504 bios. First issue, I have my OS on the SSD, when I shut down from windows the screen, keyboard and mouse turn off, but all the internal hardware stays on (fans lights etc). I can't seem to find out what's up with it. Not a big deal, I just hold the power button in and nothing is damaged or lost. It restarts fine though, so that's the lesser problem, more of a nuisance. The real problem is overclocking. I've tried a few times using the auto boost, and the Asus Auto OC, as well as manual settings. Every situation produces the same results, my computer will restart, and never post, then restart again on an infinite loop(I even let it go for 30 mins one time on the Auto OC tool) help! What am I doing wrong or what could be a potential issue?


I am also against the Auto OC feature. Even if you get a stable OC it will still consume more power than it should.

You can VERY easily oc yourself and not have that infinite loop issue.


----------



## Rakin

I've an issue with my sabertooth, I'm currently using a Crucial M4 and a Samsung F4 2TB for storage drive, the issue is whenever I disconnect and reconnect the HDD, it BSODs, even though I have the OS on the SSD, anyone know whats up? I have hotplug enabled on the BIOS.
EDIT : Seems like csrss.exe is the issue.


----------



## cutty1998

Just finished a build for my son,with this board ,and went to boot ,and nothing.......................... no signal to monitor. Got everything from Tigerdirect. Everything else powered up all fans working Cpu cooler working. But no signal to monitor . Ok ,system specs . Sabertooth , 3770K ,Galaxy GTX680 reference ,Corsair vengance 1866 Mhz 16GB (4x4) ,Corsair H-80 ,Corsair TX850W PSU,Corsair 120GB SSD ,WD 1TB . HAF 932 advanced case. I switched Graphics card to my working GTX570 ,and still nothing . Could it be the Memory ,or definitely a bad Mobo? Any help appreciated !


----------



## cutty1998

Got it ! One of the ram modules wasn't properly seated. Wicked now.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> Hey guys, great to see so many other Sabertooth owners. I'm having two problems, seemingly unrelated but perhaps they are. I've updated to 1504 bios. First issue, I have my OS on the SSD, when I shut down from windows the screen, keyboard and mouse turn off, but all the internal hardware stays on (fans lights etc). I can't seem to find out what's up with it. Not a big deal, I just hold the power button in and nothing is damaged or lost. It restarts fine though, so that's the lesser problem, more of a nuisance. The real problem is overclocking. I've tried a few times using the auto boost, and the Asus Auto OC, as well as manual settings. Every situation produces the same results, my computer will restart, and never post, then restart again on an infinite loop(I even let it go for 30 mins one time on the Auto OC tool) help! What am I doing wrong or what could be a potential issue?


I doubt it is undervolted as if you just use the OC Tuner in the BIOS then it actually provides a higher voltage than is what is even needed. If you just updated your BIOS to 1504 and then did this I would say that you have a bad flash.
If not, then I would check your SATA connections. unplug everything and only replug in your boot drive. Also, check the SATA cable itself. See if drives are being sensed in BIOS.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *og4tcm*
> 
> The real problem is overclocking. I've tried a few times using the auto boost, and the Asus Auto OC, as well as manual settings. Every situation produces the same results, my computer will restart, and never post, then restart again on an infinite loop


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> I doubt it is undervolted


I did not supply enough volts to my Ram on an Early attempt at overclocking and I was stuck in an Infinite loop of rebooting.... Hmmm

As soon as i bumped up to 1.68 Ran fine at 2200mhz


----------



## KMixson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Just finished a build for my son,with this board ,and went to boot ,and nothing.......................... no signal to monitor. Got everything from Tigerdirect. Everything else powered up all fans working Cpu cooler working. But no signal to monitor . Ok ,system specs . Sabertooth , 3770K ,Galaxy GTX680 reference ,Corsair vengance 1866 Mhz 16GB (4x4) ,Corsair H-80 ,Corsair TX850W PSU,Corsair 120GB SSD ,WD 1TB . HAF 932 advanced case. I switched Graphics card to my working GTX570 ,and still nothing . Could it be the Memory ,or definitely a bad Mobo? Any help appreciated !


Check to make sure your video cable is good. I had a bad DVI cable and when I booted to my monitor the first time it did not work. I had booted to my TV from the onboard HDMI graphics on my very first boot. After replacing the DVI cable, all is well.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KMixson*
> 
> Check to make sure your video cable is good. I had a bad DVI cable and when I booted to my monitor the first time it did not work. I had booted to my TV from the onboard HDMI graphics on my very first boot. After replacing the DVI cable, all is well.


Thanks, Problem resolved !! I did ,switch to the DVI to VGA converter adaptor ,and still ,nothing ,so I went back in ,and removed the Memory sticks ,and re-inserted them ,and it Booted right up ! First time ever using the new Asus bios. Pretty intense! About to begin overclocking today. Thanks .


----------



## LECV94

Hey guys, need some help here, this is going to be my first build and i'm thinking of using the z77 sabertooth. Need some opinion and advices on the components i chose. Thanks in advance









Mobo: asus z77
Cpu: i5 3550k
Gpu : asus gtx 670 DCU II TOP
Cpu cooler : Corsair Hydro series H100
RAM: corsair vengeance
psu: corsair HX850
Storage: corsair force ssd 120 gb
2 tb WD Caviar Red
Chassis: corsair 650D
Fan : corsair sp120 & af120.

Since this is going to be my first build, I'm hoping for it to be flawless. You can give any advices, especially the look of it, i'm going with red ram and red corsair fan, matching with the asus gpu, give some suggestion for better look. Also looking forward to cut some budget.

Detailed explaination would be great as I'm not really good with the pc components and stuff but really love gaming. Being a pc gamer would be much cooler than a console gamer


----------



## quentin

Anyone have some 24/7 settings for 5GHz on a 3570K? I have enough PSU, and I have enough cooling to handle it.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LECV94*
> 
> Hey guys, need some help here, this is going to be my first build and i'm thinking of using the z77 sabertooth. Need some opinion and advices on the components i chose. Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo: asus z77
> Cpu: i5 3550k
> Gpu : asus gtx 670 DCU II TOP
> Cpu cooler : Corsair Hydro series H100
> RAM: corsair vengeance
> psu: corsair HX850
> Storage: corsair force ssd 120 gb
> 2 tb WD Caviar Red
> Chassis: corsair 650D
> Fan : corsair sp120 & af120.
> Since this is going to be my first build, I'm hoping for it to be flawless. You can give any advices, especially the look of it, i'm going with red ram and red corsair fan, matching with the asus gpu, give some suggestion for better look. Also looking forward to cut some budget.
> Detailed explaination would be great as I'm not really good with the pc components and stuff but really love gaming. Being a pc gamer would be much cooler than a console gamer


We have a very similar build

I also have an asus z77
i5 3570k
670 GTX (zotac)
Corsair h100
120 gb SSD

etc

So far great. You will love your rig.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LECV94*
> 
> Hey guys, need some help here, this is going to be my first build and i'm thinking of using the z77 sabertooth. Need some opinion and advices on the components i chose. Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mobo: asus z77
> Cpu: i5 3550k
> Gpu : asus gtx 670 DCU II TOP
> Cpu cooler : Corsair Hydro series H100
> RAM: corsair vengeance
> psu: corsair HX850
> Storage: corsair force ssd 120 gb
> 2 tb WD Caviar Red
> Chassis: corsair 650D
> Fan : corsair sp120 & af120.
> Since this is going to be my first build, I'm hoping for it to be flawless. You can give any advices, especially the look of it, i'm going with red ram and red corsair fan, matching with the asus gpu, give some suggestion for better look. Also looking forward to cut some budget.
> Detailed explaination would be great as I'm not really good with the pc components and stuff but really love gaming. Being a pc gamer would be much cooler than a console gamer


Shop that 670 around a bit.. You could save some cash there. Unless your Hell Bent on getting the Asus Top Card. A reference Design would Do. Drop that PSU to a 750. Unless your planning to add a second card in the Future.. Other wise that build will game just fine..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quentin*
> 
> Anyone have some 24/7 settings for 5GHz on a 3570K? I have enough PSU, and I have enough cooling to handle it.


What cooling?


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What cooling?


Must be something pretty impressive, that would be an aggressive OC.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Must be something pretty impressive, that would be an aggressive OC.


I could see this possible with it de-lidded, but still.....


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I could see this possible with it de-lidded, but still.....


The idea of de-lidding makes me shiver, I just cant risk ruining it for a gain I don't need. Brave souls there or much better off financially than myself







.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> The idea of de-lidding makes me shiver, I just cant risk ruining it for a gain I don't need. Brave souls there or much better off financially than myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Agreed.. De-lidding to me is only a....... Hey look what i did...


----------



## quentin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> What cooling?


480 GTX w/ 8 3000rpm kazes. Plus the radiator is mounted outside my window, so ambient is going to be 10-40 degrees F until spring time. I try to crank the heat up in the winter time to keep the water temps as high as possible to avoid freezing and condensation.

Overclocking on this board is beautiful. I can get to 4.8 with ease, I just want to know what to look out for when I go above that. Do I need to adjust the pll? What are maximum safe voltages?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quentin*
> 
> 480 GTX w/ 8 3000rpm kazes. Plus the radiator is mounted outside my window, so ambient is going to be 10-40 degrees F until spring time. I try to crank the heat up in the winter time to keep the water temps as high as possible to avoid freezing and condensation.
> Overclocking on this board is beautiful. I can get to 4.8 with ease, I just want to know what to look out for when I go above that. Do I need to adjust the pll? What are maximum safe voltages?


Sorry man i have a 3770k at 47.. Thats my sweet spot. Passing past that really have to crank the volts and Heat becomes an issue when running prime. I tried 5ghz for about a minute. Things get a little tense for me up that high so settled at a comfortable 47. I would say set your LLC to Ultra High.. and see what happens with volts.. I am sure you can get it but the amount of heat and the quickness that it comes is too much for me.
This shot is with Hyperthreading on.. Probably be a lot cooler without. but thats no fun..







You will start to thermal throttle at 105c so dont worry about melting anything..


----------



## quentin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Sorry man i have a 3770k at 47.. Thats my sweet spot. Passing past that really have to crank the volts and Heat becomes an issue when running prime. I tried 5ghz for about a minute. Things get a little tense for me up that high so settled at a comfortable 47. I would say set your LLC to Ultra High.. and see what happens with volts.. I am sure you can get it but the amount of heat and the quickness that it comes is too much for me.
> This shot is with Hyperthreading on.. Probably be a lot cooler without. but thats no fun..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will start to thermal throttle at 105c so dont worry about melting anything..


I see in your pic you have it at 1.54 0_0. I had mine manually set to 1.51 in BIOS and it still wouldn't boot into Windows. What's the safest you think I can get up to?

Setting LLC was a good suggestion, thanks


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quentin*
> 
> I see in your pic you have it at 1.54 0_0. I had mine manually set to 1.51 in BIOS and it still wouldn't boot into Windows. What's the safest you think I can get up to?
> Setting LLC was a good suggestion, thanks


TBH i dont know with the 3570k. If 1.51 wont do it then ,,, what i do when trying new clocks is leave the voltage offset and + then leave the Offset value Auto to see where the board will actually set it.. Then i start messing with the offset Volts to try to lower what the Auto originally gave. If that makes sense..


----------



## KingKwentyne

So my board did a funny thing.... While running a 12hr stress test on prime95. It first gave a reading of 127C for motherboard temp through AI suite and speed fan.

Pic


Then it said the temp dropped down to -1C... which I would take any day









Pic


Oh yea there was the voltage thing as well...

Hasn't happened again yet since the 12hr stress test which was my 3rd one in 2 day by the way. Has anyone else had such an error?....


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Agreed.. De-lidding to me is only a....... Hey look what i did...


I wonder which one did it then screwed it up and didn't share their experience after they destroyed their expensive Intel. You know how knives slip and all with those responses *oopsshiat!*


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> So my board did a funny thing.... While running a 12hr stress test on prime95. It first gave a reading of 127C for motherboard temp through AI suite and speed fan.
> Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it said the temp dropped down to -1C... which I would take any day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yea there was the voltage thing as well...
> Hasn't happened again yet since the 12hr stress test which was my 3rd one in 2 day by the way. Has anyone else had such an error?....


I cant help with the bad readings as i dont use AI suite but have you tried lowering your volts.. for 45 my 3770k only needed 1.25 to be stable in prime.. Just a thought.. I know all these chips are different and need different Volts to Run..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Bios for 45 at 1.25. Of course the Ram is up to you for the settings


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> So my board did a funny thing.... While running a 12hr stress test on prime95. It first gave a reading of 127C for motherboard temp through AI suite and speed fan.
> Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it said the temp dropped down to -1C... which I would take any day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yea there was the voltage thing as well...
> Hasn't happened again yet since the 12hr stress test which was my 3rd one in 2 day by the way. Has anyone else had such an error?....


It's known issue with AI Suite when you have another sensors monitoring software running at the same time.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I cant help with the bad readings as i dont use AI suite but have you tried lowering your volts.. for 45 my 3770k only needed 1.25 to be stable in prime.. Just a thought.. I know all these chips are different and need different Volts to Run..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bios for 45 at 1.25. Of course the Ram is up to you for the settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was able to run windows fine with a vcore of 1.28, but I got an error on one of the workers after 11.5hrs of prime95. So i just made sure to give more than enough head room to clear the 12hrs so I could submit and entry into the ivy stable/suicide club









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It's known issue with AI Suite when you have another sensors monitoring software running at the same time.


Ok that makes sense... I was wondering. I know its not a mobo issue cause it has never happened since. I run a clock 4Ghz 24/7. With a much lower vcore and no probs at all. This board is awesome... Has anyone mentioned that lately?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> I was able to run windows fine with a vcore of 1.28, but I got an error on one of the workers after 11.5hrs of prime95. So i just made sure to give more than enough head room to clear the 12hrs so I could submit and entry into the ivy stable/suicide club


Ah I see..


----------



## dark7721

hi i wonder if any one can help ive just got another 8GB of ram ( 2x4GB) to add to the other 8GB i have but the bios and windows is only seeing the 8Gb i had befor i try the new set by them self and they are fine and the old set are fine aswell try each stick on its own its fine how can i get it to show 16GB in the bios and in windows ? ( Yes befor anyone asks i do have WINDOW 7 64BIt )


----------



## LECV94

Will the mobo looks great with silver arrow SB-E Extreme red colour? Thanks.


----------



## [email protected]

Is this motherboard really worth it?

My motherboard has been doing well for a long time and i always wondered if i should've just gotten a i7 but the newer generations seems to be better from what i heard when it comes to gaming.

I ain't much into Overclocking anymore and i'll always stick with the XMP settings and let my PC last a lifetime with maintenance and etc.

Can someone give me a short list what's a good processor to go with this motherboard?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LECV94*
> 
> Will the mobo looks great with silver arrow SB-E Extreme red colour? Thanks.


Ask that Question in here. You might get a Quicker Response








http://www.overclock.net/t/990633/the-official-thermalright-silver-arrow-sb-e-club


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Is this motherboard really worth it?
> My motherboard has been doing well for a long time and i always wondered if i should've just gotten a i7 but the newer generations seems to be better from what i heard when it comes to gaming.
> I ain't much into Overclocking anymore and i'll always stick with the XMP settings and let my PC last a lifetime with maintenance and etc.
> Can someone give me a short list what's a good processor to go with this motherboard?


If you are thinking about an Upgrade. This Board Runs Like a Tank and Looks like one Too. I would Short list 2 cpu's for this IVY 3570k or Big Brother 3770k.. The First being more popular since the reduced cost and Really all that is needed for games. Add in the 3770k and get 4 virtual cores for 8 threads Total. My Photo Album and build log is full of pics for this Board.. Good Luck









http://www.overclock.net/g/a/702272/elysium-black-sniper/


----------



## [email protected]

Thanks. I'll have to save up and be patience. They cost a bit. I may consider a new case since i have the old version of Antec 1200.

Can you really take off the covers on the motherboard easily? I maintain cleaning my case every Friday due to pets and dust.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Thanks. I'll have to save up and be patience. They cost a bit. I may consider a new case since i have the old version of Antec 1200.
> Can you really take off the covers on the motherboard easily? I maintain cleaning my case every Friday due to pets and dust.


You can remove the armor easy but once installed it would be a pain since the screws that hold it on are on the back side of the board.


----------



## vf-

It is a gorgeous looking board, Hanoverfist. How is it on the long run when it comes to dust?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-*
> 
> It is a gorgeous looking board, Hanoverfist. How is it on the long run when it comes to dust?


I have a good positive PSI inside the Elysium Case so Little to No dust .. every couple of weeks I clean and TBH there is Very little even then.

But it would depend on YOUR Environment i suppose


----------



## vf-

Amazing build log on your system. Just been admiring it.


----------



## cutty1998

Can anyone advise as to which Bios I should update to on my new sabertooth ? I just finished the build ,and am using the original bios . Windows 7 64 bit and 1 GTX680 ,I7 3770K, Corsair Vengance PC-1500 4X4 16GB . Thank you in advance.


----------



## cutty1998

Also ,I don't foresee updating to windows 8 ,if that makes a difference. Unless there are some advantages I am unaware of by updating to it.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Can anyone advise as to which Bios I should update to on my new sabertooth ? I just finished the build ,and am using the original bios . Windows 7 64 bit and 1 GTX680 ,I7 3770K, Corsair Vengance PC-1500 4X4 16GB . Thank you in advance.


You can safely install to the latest BIOS which is 1504


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-*
> 
> Amazing build log on your system. Just been admiring it.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Can anyone advise as to which Bios I should update to on my new sabertooth ? I just finished the build ,and am using the original bios . Windows 7 64 bit and 1 GTX680 ,I7 3770K, Corsair Vengance PC-1500 4X4 16GB . Thank you in advance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> You can safely install to the latest BIOS which is 1504


^^^THIS^^^


----------



## LECV94

Please, can anyone tell wether SB-E fit nicely on the mobo???


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LECV94*
> 
> Please, can anyone tell wether SB-E fit nicely on the mobo???


SB-E is socket 2011. This Board is 1155 for SB or Ivy.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LECV94*
> 
> Please, can anyone tell wether SB-E fit nicely on the mobo???


I did some searching but I couldn't find anything except this. Quote from that page: "No cleareance issue with Thermalright Silver Arrow. If that cooler can mount on this board, then im pretty sure they all can without problems.".

Anyway, the Noctua NH-D14 does fit so I think this cooler won't give you problems either but I definitely don't know for sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> SB-E is socket 2011. This Board is 1155 for SB or Ivy.


As LECV94 also posted in the [Official] Thermalright Silver Arrow / SB-E Club I'm assuming he's talking about the Thermalright SilverArrow SB-E and not Sandy Bridge-E processors. According to this page, these coolers are 1155 compatible.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> As LECV94 also posted in the [Official] Thermalright Silver Arrow / SB-E Club I'm assuming he's talking about the Thermalright SilverArrow SB-E and not Sandy Bridge-E processors. According to this page, these coolers are 1155 compatible.


Good god its to early.. sorry .. You are Right..


----------



## LECV94

Haha, sorry for not being specific, i meant the cpu cooler


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LECV94*
> 
> Haha, sorry for not being specific, i meant the cpu cooler


No Problem , I should not be Posting before at least One cup of Coffee..









Did you check out the Owners Club for that
http://www.overclock.net/t/990633/the-official-thermalright-silver-arrow-sb-e-club


----------



## cutty1998

Ok ,downloaded the latest Bios and bios installer from Asus. The DOS method looks way to complex for me . Can anyone help me from screwing this up ,by explaining the way to update using a flash drive ? On my old EVGA it was so easy ,you just downloaded the file ,and it installed right from your desktop . Help greatly appreciated !


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Ok ,downloaded the latest Bios and bios installer from Asus. The DOS method looks way to complex for me . Can anyone help me from screwing this up ,by explaining the way to update using a flash drive ? On my old EVGA it was so easy ,you just downloaded the file ,and it installed right from your desktop . Help greatly appreciated !


Ok. Extract the Downloaded Bios File To the Root of the USB drive. Rename the CAP file to Z77ST.CAP Dont have this file in a folder....... Now Power down the Machine. Leave the PSU supply power on to the board. Insert the USB drive into the port shown on page 2-43. Follow the Directions stated on this page. This is the only method i use and is flawless so far...









The Beauty of this is you dont need any Hardware at all Installed. For example .. Straight out of the Box ,, hook up PSU and Flash it..Totally Blind.... So nice

Example of that


----------



## cutty1998

Thank you !


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Here is 3770k at 4.7 Bios Settings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I recently swapped my H80 w Push/Pull for a H100 Dual Push/Pull.

I will be able to try your 4.7GHz setup as now I have more room to play with the voltages (yours was 0.100v offest).
I tried running at that speeds but 30 min into Prime95 27.7 it would get a round off error. (Was running Max Heat, Max Voltage option in Prime)
I have a feeling I may need more voltage.

From what I can see when I tried running 4.5 GHz on the H80 before and I was getting high 80C to low 90Cs.
With the current H100 setup, 4.5GHz stable (RAM @ 2400MHz), I'm at low 70C on all cores - using Lliquid Pro as my Thermal Paste.
I also lapped the CPU and the copper H100 base with 3000 grit sandpaper.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> I recently swapped my H80 w Push/Pull for a H100 Dual Push/Pull.
> I will be able to try your 4.7GHz setup as now I have more room to play with the voltages (yours was 0.100v offest).
> I tried running at that speeds but 30 min into Prime95 27.7 it would get a round off error. (Was running Max Heat, Max Voltage option in Prime)
> I have a feeling I may need more voltage.
> From what I can see when I tried running 4.5 GHz on the H80 before and I was getting high 80C to low 90Cs.
> With the current H100 setup, 4.5GHz stable (RAM @ 2400MHz), I'm at low 70C on all cores - using Lliquid Pro as my Thermal Paste.
> I also lapped the CPU and the copper H100 base with 3000 grit sandpaper.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice little setup you have there.. I have been stable with 47 now for awhile with my hardware.. Since we have different setups it will all be up to you and Your experiments with voltages.
I just post that as a place for other guys to start. some guys run less volts some more.. Just depends. Good Luck with it


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Ok. Extract the Downloaded Bios File To the Root of the USB drive. Rename the CAP file to Z77ST.CAP Dont have this file in a folder....... Now Power down the Machine. Leave the PSU supply power on to the board. Insert the USB drive into the port shown on page 2-43. Follow the Directions stated on this page. This is the only method i use and is flawless so far...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Beauty of this is you dont need any Hardware at all Installed. For example .. Straight out of the Box ,, hook up PSU and Flash it..Totally Blind.... So nice
> Example of that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have been thinking about upgrading my BIOS for a while now. I upgraded my BIOS to 1403 as soon as I got this board, and haven't had any issues. I guess the general rule is 'if you don't have any issues, don't upgrade', but I kind of want the latest one


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> I have been thinking about upgrading my BIOS for a while now. I upgraded my BIOS to 1403 as soon as I got this board, and haven't had any issues. I guess the general rule is 'if you don't have any issues, don't upgrade', but I kind of want the latest one


If you want it, what's stopping you?.. I agree don't fix what is not Broke. But .......


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> I have been thinking about upgrading my BIOS for a while now. I upgraded my BIOS to 1403 as soon as I got this board, and haven't had any issues. I guess the general rule is 'if you don't have any issues, don't upgrade', but I kind of want the latest one


My saying is fix it till it is broken LOL. Well I had to update the bios on my board. I was able to take my 3770k up to [email protected] Something which I couldnt seem to do with the 1403.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2538767


----------



## Sogi

Hey Fellow Sabertooth owners, for anyone interested in watercooling there system, im trying to get a custom waterblock made by nateman for the sabertooth z77 as there are no blocks for this board from retailers. Of course there needs to be demand before nateman will plunge into this project, so if anyone is interested, pop on here .... http://www.overclock.net/t/1309965/z77-custom-waterblock-whos-interested/20#post_18333662


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sogi*
> 
> Hey Fellow Sabertooth owners, for anyone interested in watercooling there system, im trying to get a custom waterblock made by nateman for the sabertooth z77 as there are no blocks for this board from retailers. Of course there needs to be demand before nateman will plunge into this project, so if anyone is interested, pop on here .... http://www.overclock.net/t/1309965/z77-custom-waterblock-whos-interested/20#post_18333662


You got my vote bro.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Ok. Extract the Downloaded Bios File To the Root of the USB drive. Rename the CAP file to Z77ST.CAP Dont have this file in a folder....... Now Power down the Machine. Leave the PSU supply power on to the board. Insert the USB drive into the port shown on page 2-43. Follow the Directions stated on this page. This is the only method i use and is flawless so far...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Beauty of this is you dont need any Hardware at all Installed. For example .. Straight out of the Box ,, hook up PSU and Flash it..Totally Blind.... So nice
> Example of that


Will this still work if I have everything hooked up to the board? My Rig is already built. I would rather not strip it down again to flash the bios?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Will this still work if I have everything hooked up to the board? My Rig is already built. I would rather not strip it down again to flash the bios?


Yes it will. Loaded with hardware or not. Just power down the machine and leave power to the board from the PSU on. No need to remove all your hardware.


----------



## Lesiunta

NVIDIA Releases GeForce 306.97 WHQL Video Card Drivers For Windows 7/8, boys and girls.

http://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/49949


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> The assist fans might lower some temps by 1ºC. They are not that useful and are very annoying when they ramp up and down in speed. You definitely need to set the ramp up and slow down times to the slowest possible in Fan Xpert 2.
> Having said that, there is really no reason to use them. The biggest feature would be to have some air circulation after you shutdown your computer as the default I think is 1 minute after shutdown. Would be a lot more beneficial though to use the case fans for this in my opinion. You could use the assist fan header at the top of the board for you rear exhaust case fan. I have done that and been happy with the results.


Yep, that's basically what I've done. On low speed, you can't even hear it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> I'm not sure how a card in the top slot interferes with the assist fan unless the card you are using has an extremely thick backplate on the PCB. Also, I'm not sure how SLI would interfere with the center PCI slot either unless you were using a hard PCB bridge made for a triple SLI setup or something maybe.


As I mentioned above, it is too tall and thus would bump the PCB. I've got the shorty Fatal1ty soundcard and it would not fit if I installed the assist fan. I really wish ASUS set the assist fan lower for clearance.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> SO folks I installed the Lan driver from the Asus's site for my sabertooth Z77
> Its the version 17.2.0.0 Intel Gigabit Eternet Driver
> However I had issues with Win7 and Win8
> The issue is that when I start up my windows the lan takes about a minute to load and until it loads up the other programs do not work. I see a blue circle spinning and spinning and spinning as if it is trying to find a server to connect or something.
> Anyone experienced this problem?
> I am connected wired btw.


When 17.3 is available on the Intel website. Also, when you install these, are you uninstalling the old? Also, when I install them, I uncheck everything so it only installs the driver by itself and not the services.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech-guy*
> 
> Hello Guys,
> I wanted to post this for everyone to please help me.
> I just built my PC this weekend and I am getting the following error when Windows loads up:
> I did downloaded the newest version of Asus Suite II from www.asus.com
> 
> Any help will be very much appreciated.
> Thanks
> JOhn


There should be an installer patch for the AI Suite as well. Download that and that should get resolved.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Ah there you go..


I still want to know how you made those cool stickers.


----------



## pbebeto

hey guys i already finished my new pc ,

the specs :

i5 3570k
sabertooh z77
2 x 4 GB Gskill Sniper 1600mhz
Ax 850w Corsair
H100
120 gb ssd vertex 3
120 gb ssd agility 3
1 TB seagate sata 3

and now i want to overclock the processor to 4.2ghz, here is the point, on my last motherboard ( MSI Z77A- GD 65 rest in peace







) to get 4.2ghz i just only move the vcore to 1.10v and change the mult to 42x and everything works fine.

but now with the sabertooth , how iam going to get 4.2ghz, i saw the uefi bios yesterday and has a lot of features, im lost kkkkkkkk

sorry my english iam from brazil, thanks everybody


----------



## ppunter

U can do that in the easy mode bios and select performance mode, no pics to show you for i only just read it in this forum


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> NVIDIA Releases GeForce 306.97 WHQL Video Card Drivers For Windows 7/8, boys and girls.
> http://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/49949


Virtual High Five for you sir!


----------



## dlanes

Anyone else have problems getting this board to post? I'm on my second board and Asus tech support tells me to buy another motherboard because this one is poor design. I get 1 long beep and 4 short ones.


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> I recently swapped my H80 w Push/Pull for a H100 Dual Push/Pull.
> I will be able to try your 4.7GHz setup as now I have more room to play with the voltages (yours was 0.100v offest).
> I tried running at that speeds but 30 min into Prime95 27.7 it would get a round off error. (Was running Max Heat, Max Voltage option in Prime)
> I have a feeling I may need more voltage.
> From what I can see when I tried running 4.5 GHz on the H80 before and I was getting high 80C to low 90Cs.
> With the current H100 setup, 4.5GHz stable (RAM @ 2400MHz), I'm at low 70C on all cores - using Lliquid Pro as my Thermal Paste.
> I also lapped the CPU and the copper H100 base with 3000 grit sandpaper.


Shiny.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> I grab the intel drivers from intel's site.
> They already have gigabit ethernet 17.3 out. I don't install the extra junk it tries to install. I also disable some of the services.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also downloaded the latest MEI drivers from there. I didn't see a big change.


Thanks man I tried it again thought it laid in the MEI but I changes some network driver settings. I usually go threw Intel my self but there site has been trimmed up in the driver department meaning they want you to head over to your OEM. I will give that a shot and thanks for your time. Much respect


----------



## GeorgeH

Can anyone help me I just got my z77 sabertooth up and running and on boot all the (red) LED's blink before it goes into windows is this normal on every boot? Does your guys z77 sabertooths mobo's LEDs all blink once in a cycle while booting?


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlanes*
> 
> Anyone else have problems getting this board to post? I'm on my second board and Asus tech support tells me to buy another motherboard because this one is poor design. I get 1 long beep and 4 short ones.


Only time I had post issues were on older bios or having a crappy usb 2.0 card reader hooked. I am looking at you Sony.


----------



## asuman1179

I also had post issues by having to much plugged in the first time I booted up. Did not think that would great that much of an issue.


----------



## Sogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeorgeH*
> 
> Can anyone help me I just got my z77 sabertooth up and running and on boot all the (red) LED's blink before it goes into windows is this normal on every boot? Does your guys z77 sabertooths mobo's LEDs all blink once in a cycle while booting?


Yea, im sure my on my board all the LED's go on before boot.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeorgeH*
> 
> Can anyone help me I just got my z77 sabertooth up and running and on boot all the (red) LED's blink before it goes into windows is this normal on every boot? Does your guys z77 sabertooths mobo's LEDs all blink once in a cycle while booting?


Yes that is very normal actually. It checks memory, video then the chipset on the board. If any one of them stays on then you have a problem. You got nothing to worry about right now though. If you read through the manual it should explain it a bit more.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dlanes*
> 
> Anyone else have problems getting this board to post? I'm on my second board and Asus tech support tells me to buy another motherboard because this one is poor design. I get 1 long beep and 4 short ones.


is it one long and 4 short or 3 short? Just to make sure... Reason I am asking is I can't find a one long four short for an american megatrend bios.

Beep Code Descriptions
1 short DRAM refresh failure
2 short Parity circuit failure
3 short Base 64K RAM failure
4 short System timer failure
5 short Process failure
6 short Keyboard controller Gate A20 error
7 short Virtual mode exception error
8 short Display memory Read/Write test failure
9 short ROM BIOS checksum failure
10 short CMOS shutdown Read/Write error
11 short Cache Memory error
1 long, 3 short Conventional/Extended memory failure
1 long, 8 short Display/Retrace test failed

If you go by this list of error beeps and their descriptions your most likey issue is extended memory failure. I would suggest to test each stick individually, then with none at all and see if the error code changes. You can also see another list here. Hope you get it fixed bro. This is a great board would love for you to enjoy it like the rest of us.


----------



## tech-guy

I present to you Speed Demon!!!


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeH

Can anyone help me I just got my z77 sabertooth up and running and on boot all the (red) LED's blink before it goes into windows is this normal on every boot? Does your guys z77 sabertooths mobo's LEDs all blink once in a cycle while booting?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sogi*
> 
> Yea, im sure my on my board all the LED's go on before boot.


This^^


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech-guy*
> 
> I present to you Speed Demon!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats and Welcome..


----------



## MadHocus

That thing looks a beast!


----------



## dlanes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> is it one long and 4 short or 3 short? Just to make sure... Reason I am asking is I can't find a one long four short for an american megatrend bios.
> Beep Code Descriptions
> 1 short DRAM refresh failure
> 2 short Parity circuit failure
> 3 short Base 64K RAM failure
> 4 short System timer failure
> 5 short Process failure
> 6 short Keyboard controller Gate A20 error
> 7 short Virtual mode exception error
> 8 short Display memory Read/Write test failure
> 9 short ROM BIOS checksum failure
> 10 short CMOS shutdown Read/Write error
> 11 short Cache Memory error
> 1 long, 3 short Conventional/Extended memory failure
> 1 long, 8 short Display/Retrace test failed
> If you go by this list of error beeps and their descriptions your most likey issue is extended memory failure. I would suggest to test each stick individually, then with none at all and see if the error code changes. You can also see another list here. Hope you get it fixed bro. This is a great board would love for you to enjoy it like the rest of us.


I know the memory is good it is under the QVL and it works fine in another board, I am now going to RMA the cpu if I install a new cpu and it still wont post then I'm going with another board and another company. I've never had a bad cpu, but there is always a first. I've had plenty of boards go bad, but two boards in a row being bad is unheard of and if that's the case I wont bother with a third.


----------



## cutty1998

OK ,I really need some help. When I built this New system ,I ordered a Sata3 Corsair 120GB SSD ,and a Sata3 1TB HDD (Blue Caviar) . Well Tigerdirect sent me a regular Sata2 1TB HDD , so I just put the SSD in ,and installed windows 7 ,and man it is snappy ! Scores a 7.8 on the WEI (everything is 7.9,but the CPU) ,and I was going to do an RMA and get the right HDD ,but I didnt feel like waiting a week ,or a month for a stupid Hard drive ,So I just slapped in the 1 TB HDD ,and of course windows does not see it. The SSD is already down to 40 GB remaining space ,thanx to my son downloading his Steam account to it. So I would like to set up the Smart response setup ,and I called Asus ,got a tech on the line ,but it seems like a nightmare. He emailed me a paragraph of instructions that say to change settings to raid in Bios ,and install windows using Intel Raid drivers. Then after that ,install some more raid software. Can someone help me to get this array set up ? I would be greatly appreciative.


----------



## ole12

Hey guys.

Got a problem, i hope someone here can help me with.

I got a z77 sabertooth, 3570K CPU, 7970GPU, corsair 1600mhz vengeance

Yesterday i got all my watercooling parts, and i mounted everything. It got a bit late last night so i waited to today to connect and boot-up.
The first thing that happend, was that there where no display, and hang at DRAM_LED, I pushed the DRAM button and the computer rebooted.
Afterwards, it now hangs at VGA_LED and BOOT_DEVICE_LED. I tried everyting.

1. Clear CMOS
2. Change RAM slots (both single and dual)
3. Change to onboard grapics
4. Disconnect everything, except HDD and GPU
5. Disconnected the GPU, and tried another GPU at the other PCI-E slot. (since its watercooled, i cant try the other GPU on the same PCI-E slot.
6. Reconncect the 24 and 8 pins.
IT still shows the VGA and BOOT_DEVICE led

The computer worked perfectly before i disassembled the compuer, and i did upgrade to the latest BIOS when I got the motherboard.

Thnx


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> OK ,I really need some help. When I built this New system ,I ordered a Sata3 Corsair 120GB SSD ,and a Sata3 1TB HDD (Blue Caviar) . Well Tigerdirect sent me a regular Sata2 1TB HDD , so I just put the SSD in ,and installed windows 7 ,and man it is snappy ! Scores a 7.8 on the WEI (everything is 7.9,but the CPU) ,and I was going to do an RMA and get the right HDD ,but I didnt feel like waiting a week ,or a month for a stupid Hard drive ,So I just slapped in the 1 TB HDD ,and of course windows does not see it. The SSD is already down to 40 GB remaining space ,thanx to my son downloading his Steam account to it. So I would like to set up the Smart response setup ,and I called Asus ,got a tech on the line ,but it seems like a nightmare. He emailed me a paragraph of instructions that say to change settings to raid in Bios ,and install windows using Intel Raid drivers. Then after that ,install some more raid software. Can someone help me to get this array set up ? I would be greatly appreciative.


Try doing this. Boot the pc from your windows install media (usb, disc,or whatever). On the splash screen which says "install now" hold shift and press F10. It will open up a command prompt window. From there type in:
1. diskpart
2. listdisk (if the 1tb show up go to the next step)
3. select disk X (where x is the number that corresponds to the disk)
4. clean (it show not initialized at this point)
5. create par ext
6. delete par
7. exit

Windows should see the drive now. Right click on my computer go to management and then disk management. It should show your drive there. You may still need to initialize it from there as well. I have the same set up on my machine and it works perfectly. Except my drive a 250gb. PM me if you need any more help of if this does not work for you.


----------



## jordo_123

hey had my board a few months and just got an ssd for a boot drive and after installing all the drivers from the cd supplied with the board my sm bus has no driver nor does my usb controller any help would be great.


----------



## MadHocus

Hi All,

Building a new rig and have gone with the i5 3570k and the Sabertooth MB. Set on my memory, looks like I'm going H60 cooler. Main thing I'm going to be doing is streaming video, watching blueray and photoshop for early days. Just looking for a cheap suggestion on Graphics Cards. I'm sure as I get to know more ill probably get into OC and gaming, but not to much in a rush.

Cheers


----------



## jordo_123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Hi All,
> Building a new rig and have gone with the i5 3570k and the Sabertooth MB. Set on my memory, looks like I'm going H60 cooler. Main thing I'm going to be doing is streaming video, watching blueray and photoshop for early days. Just looking for a cheap suggestion on Graphics Cards. I'm sure as I get to know more ill probably get into OC and gaming, but not to much in a rush.
> Cheers


all depend on money £100-£250 i would say get a 660 ti or a 650 ti for about £50 less


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Hi All,
> Building a new rig and have gone with the i5 3570k and the Sabertooth MB. Set on my memory, looks like I'm going H60 cooler. Main thing I'm going to be doing is streaming video, watching blueray and photoshop for early days. Just looking for a cheap suggestion on Graphics Cards. I'm sure as I get to know more ill probably get into OC and gaming, but not to much in a rush.
> Cheers


First of all, nice choices so far







. I've got a H60 cooler as well and it'll allow some decent OC action. But first and foremost I really like it because it is small, you can just put the radiator at the location of the rear exhaust and you won't need to mount it in the top of your case like with some more extreme closed loops (so you can put some general exhaust fans in the top, which I like better than only one small one in the rear. Besides, hot air moves up). It also looks great on the Sabertooth









Anyway, in terms of graphics, what do you consider 'cheap'?

edit: I read in another one of your posts that you were concerned that the H60 would be noisy. Noise doesn't bother me at all with this cooler. In fact, I think it is really silent. My CM Hyper 212 EVO on my spare rig produces a lot more sound.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> Try doing this. Boot the pc from your windows install media (usb, disc,or whatever). On the splash screen which says "install now" hold shift and press F10. It will open up a command prompt window. From there type in:
> 1. diskpart
> 2. listdisk (if the 1tb show up go to the next step)
> 3. select disk X (where x is the number that corresponds to the disk)
> 4. clean (it show not initialized at this point)
> 5. create par ext
> 6. delete par
> 7. exit
> Windows should see the drive now. Right click on my computer go to management and then disk management. It should show your drive there. You may still need to initialize it from there as well. I have the same set up on my machine and it works perfectly. Except my drive a 250gb. PM me if you need any more help of if this does not work for you.


Thank you so much. I will PM you if I run into problems. I hate to bother anyone ,and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to answer my call for help!


----------



## MadHocus

Cheers Jordo & Keesgelder.

By cheap I suppose I mean no more than £100. I'd be shocked if I spent much time playing games on it till The end of the NFL & NBA season came to a close. Not even my ps3 is getting any love. My thing is I like to download all my american TV shows and NFL games and watch them on the weekends with the wife. I can see her doing more photoshop stuff than anything. If its any help I'll be going with either the

coolmaster 500 GX Lite
http://www.ebuyer.com/352618-coolermaster-gx-lite-500w-86-single-12v-rail-230v-rs500-asabl3-uk

or
the Silencer MKIII (leaning more this way)
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/400w-pc-power-and-cooling-silencer-mk-iii-modular-85-eff-80-plus-bronze-quiet-fan-atx-v23-psu

looks like I'm sorted for memory
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004HZG4ZO/ref=nosim/?tag=hotukdeals-21

Thanks again for everyone's help. Fell free to to comment I'd rather have honest opinions than regrets.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Cheers Jordo & Keesgelder.
> By cheap I suppose I mean no more than £100. I'd be shocked if I spent much time playing games on it till The end of the NFL & NBA season came to a close. Not even my ps3 is getting any love. My thing is I like to download all my american TV shows and NFL games and watch them on the weekends with the wife. I can see her doing more photoshop stuff than anything. If its any help I'll be going with either the
> coolmaster 500 GX Lite
> http://www.ebuyer.com/352618-coolermaster-gx-lite-500w-86-single-12v-rail-230v-rs500-asabl3-uk
> or
> the Silencer MKIII (leaning more this way)
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/400w-pc-power-and-cooling-silencer-mk-iii-modular-85-eff-80-plus-bronze-quiet-fan-atx-v23-psu
> looks like I'm sorted for memory
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004HZG4ZO/ref=nosim/?tag=hotukdeals-21
> Thanks again for everyone's help. Fell free to to comment I'd rather have honest opinions than regrets.


In terms of your GPU I think your main options are the HD7770 (which will set you back around £90) or if you are willing to spend a _little_ more, the 650TI 1GB models (which will cost around £120, maybe a little bit less if you shop around). I'd say the real "hey I got some decent graphics action going on here" feeling starts at the 7850 (preferably 2GB) but then you'd be looking at a price-tag around £140-£160. BTW this pricing is based on some searching on scan, but I don't live in the UK so I wouldn't know where to shop around over there. Anyway, prices might differ a little bit.

But here's also another thought: why buy a GPU at all if you do not plan on gaming yet? The 3570K has an integrated hd 4000 chip on board, which will give you very decent performance outside of games. Some searching on Google also tells me that it will to quite well in terms of Photoshop for your wife. If you'd go this way, you'd save £100 which you can then add to your budget for something really nice if you do want to start gaming (for instance a 660TI, 670, 7870 or 7950) eventually.

In terms of your PSU my general feeling is: "if it delivers the power you need, than it's all good". Except when there's real issues like noise or something. In my spare rig I've got a 620 watt PSU from CM and it drives an overclocked i5-750 as well as 2 5850's in crossfire. I'm even using these kinds of cables. Some would be horrified, but they have served my fine for the past year and a half. I do have an overpriced overkill AX850 in my main rig but this is mostly because you can buy nice cable sets for them so it looks great in my case (and I needed a new PSU because I needed one in my spare rig, so I thought "why not something worth the upgrade"







).

Anyway, I think the PSU's of your choice will do fine, but you might consider going for a bit more wattage (more than 400, 500 would do) if you do plan on getting a high end graphics card in the future. Of the PSU's you proposed I would probably go with the Silencer MKIII as well because of it's partially modular design (the CM is not modular at all I believe), but I'd go for the 500W myself just to be on the safe side for the future (maybe the 400 will power a nice graphics card as well, but I'd just go the safe route now that you're investing anyway). I did hear that the fan can be a bit noisy at high loads though, just so you know. Overall, I think it's a nice one.

As far as memory goes I think you made a good choice, as long as you can stand the looks on your awesome looking Sabertooth. Timings are great, and you don't really gain significant real-life performance when going with anything above 1600Mhz. The price is also really nice.

Hope this helps!


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Thank you so much. I will PM you if I run into problems. I hate to bother anyone ,and I greatly appreciate you taking the time to answer my call for help!


Its not a bother I love helping people lol its my job literally. Feel free to ask if u need anything.


----------



## holty

New build time! Anyone mind reviewing my parts list and making any suggestions? Decided to skip Sandy Bridge and save a few bucks. Appreciate any feedback, particularly on the RAM.

CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler

Corsair Neutron Series GTX CSSD-N120GBGTX-BK 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Military Green Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

EVGA GeForce GTX 670 Superclocked+ w/Backplate 04G-P4-2673-KR Video Card

Patriot Viper 3 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory

CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W Power Supply

ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holty*
> 
> New build time! Anyone mind reviewing my parts list and making any suggestions? Decided to skip Sandy Bridge and save a few bucks. Appreciate any feedback, particularly on the RAM.
> CORSAIR H100 (CWCH100) Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
> Corsair Neutron Series GTX CSSD-N120GBGTX-BK 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
> Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Military Green Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
> EVGA GeForce GTX 670 Superclocked+ w/Backplate 04G-P4-2673-KR Video Card
> Patriot Viper 3 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory
> CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (CMPSU-850AX) 850W Power Supply
> ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 ATX Intel Motherboard
> Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor


Hey mate!

OK here's my opinion on all of your choices:

CORSAIR H100 - Awesome cooler, great choice
Corsair Neutron Series SSD - Great SSD, but personally i'd still get a Samsung 830 series for it's proven reliability and great price. Where I live the Samsung is 40 euros less. You could also take an 840 series PRO drive, but I'm unsure of their availability since they're just out.
Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Military Green Steel Case - Again, nice choice. If you like the looks that is (personally I'd take black with this case).
EVGA GeForce GTX 670 Superclocked+ - The GTX 670 is a nice choice. But personally, I would not take this particular model. It only has one small fan which can make quite a lot of noise. There have been quite some stories of noise with this model (mostly reference design). Personally, I'd take MSI Power Edition, Asus DCII or Gigabyte Windforce. The Asus also comes with a backplate and looks awesome. Personally I think the Gigabyte looks terrible with it's blue PCB, whereas the MSI PE also looks quite good. If you really want EVGA though, I'd take the FTW. It uses a vapor chamber cooler design. I don't think it looks that good, but it's a great card as well.
Patriot Viper 3 16GB 2133 - If you wan't 16GB, it's your choice, but 2133 is a bit overkill IMO. You won't really see any real-life performance increase with 2133 over 1600, so personally I'd save some money in this regard.
CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 - Got this PSU, and it's great, but it's also a bit overpriced and for your system it is overkill. If you don't plan on going SLI, you will be perfectly fine with the AX650. I took the AX series because you can buy awesome overpriced cables for them







. It really is a great PSU though, but you _COULD_ save some money here.
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 - Great choice of course








Intel Core i7-2600K - Personally, I'd save some money on the RAM and maybe the PSU and/or SSD so that you can go with an Ivy (3570K or 3770K). The 2600K is still a great CPU though, but with a new build, I'd just take the newest generation of processors. Still love my 2500K to this very day, but if I'd build a PC now, I'd definitely take a 3570K. The Ivy's aren't even that much more expensive anyway (at least not over here).
Anyway, in general I think you really made good choices and you will have a load of fun with this PC. If money is a concern, I'd save some on the RAM and maybe on the PSU and/or SSD, and invest some in the CPU. And personally, I'd take a different 670 model.


----------



## ppunter

^^ great answer Keesgelder!









I'm planning to buy 3770K and sabertooth z77. still looking for a decent cooler pref. air. If i choose to set the auto overclock in the bios to 'performance mode' wich brings the cpu OC to 4.2
what cooler will be sufficient? Will a Noctua NH L12 be good enough? I'm bit of a low profile guy and don't want to fuddle around too much with voltage etc. just a auto OC will do.
Could i fit a different fan on that Noctua then? i actually don't like the colours. I'd prefer a white fan..

Any ideas?


----------



## Robilar

Never auto overclock... It feeds way too much vcore by default into the chip.

Pick a multiplier (45 for example), set your vcore (1.28 for example), make sure your PLL voltage is at 1.8 and your BLCK is fixed at 100. Also set your RAM voltage (DDR setting) to 1.5 or whatever the default is for the kit.

Prime, watch temps and determine stability. Then you can start notching back the vcore until you hit the lowest vcore that is stable.


----------



## MadHocus

Keesgelder you are my hero today I have been banging my head on a few things like GPU and PSU but I think ill go with your advice on psu, and then wait to budget for a solid GPU. My sabertooth has arrived and I'm itching to get all the parts in now. Honestly thank you for your time


----------



## holty

Awesome! Appreciate the input sir.


----------



## ppunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> Never auto overclock... It feeds way too much vcore by default into the chip.
> Pick a multiplier (45 for example), set your vcore (1.28 for example), make sure your PLL voltage is at 1.8 and your BLCK is fixed at 100. Also set your RAM voltage (DDR setting) to 1.5 or whatever the default is for the kit.
> Prime, watch temps and determine stability. Then you can start notching back the vcore until you hit the lowest vcore that is stable.


thanks for the info. Will the noctua NH L12 provide sufficient cooling ?


----------



## Robilar

For 4.5 yes. Anything higher and your temps will escalate pretty quickly with a 3770k.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Keesgelder you are my hero today I have been banging my head on a few things like GPU and PSU but I think ill go with your advice on psu, and then wait to budget for a solid GPU. My sabertooth has arrived and I'm itching to get all the parts in now. Honestly thank you for your time


Glad to help out! I know how though these kinds of decisions can be







. I think you made the right decision, have fun with your build! And if there's anything else, feel free to ask!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holty*
> 
> Awesome! Appreciate the input sir.


Sure thing! Good luck with the build!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppunter*
> 
> thanks for the info. Will the noctua NH L12 provide sufficient cooling ?


It should, but don't expect it to be extremely chilly







. For example, in this review temps go up to 80 degrees with a 2600K @ 4.5GHz. The 3770K might even run quite a bit hotter than the 2600K, which you can see in for example this article (especially at higher clocks). Anyway, at 4.2 you should be perfectly fine.

I was a little worried about the width of the L12 in combination with the Sabertooth Z77 but according to the Noctua website they are fully compatible, just so you know







.

I see you'd like to replace the fans on the cooler. Personally I really dislike the brown as well. However, they are high quality fans and replacing them might decrease performance a bit if the ones you're buying are lower quality (high chance they will be lower quality). White fans are not the most common so I'm not really sure about real quality and appropriate ones. Did find these already for you though: 120mm and 92mm (the L12 has one 120mm and one 92mm fan). They might be decent, but I'm not sure how the compare to the Noctua ones. Anyway, if you do want to replace the fans, you can rest assure that it should be an easy procedure.


----------



## fishcandy

Hi there,

First post and my issue is with my Sabertooth Z77 MB and just bought Gigabyte GTX 670 windforce graphics card. The GPU-Z software "Bus Interface" indicates that it's running at PCI-E x16 v1.1. even during stress testing on Heaven...95% gpu load...shouldn't it be PCI-E 3.0? Am i missing a setting in BIOS or in Nvidia Settings? Do i have a defective card or MB or is this reading correct? BTW the card works as expected but i noticed this difference during the ocing process. My experience with solving pc problems is limited so any help would be appreciated.

Resolved!


----------



## Inacoma79

hi guys I'm getting a script error when when I startup my computer and it started when I installed the latest version of AiSuite II. The error I get is:

"AsusSetup, c:\Users\XXXXXX\AppData\Local\Temp\144458Log.iniis lost"

Anyone in this forum know what this means?


----------



## ppunter

thanks for your input guys ! Much appreciated


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> hi guys I'm getting a script error when when I startup my computer and it started when I installed the latest version of AiSuite II. The error I get is:
> "AsusSetup, c:\Users\XXXXXX\AppData\Local\Temp\144458Log.iniis lost"
> Anyone in this forum know what this means?


Had this problem as well,

Uninstalling the buggy AI Suit fixes the problem.

My issue was caused from Tune Up Utilities apparently.


----------



## dlanes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> is it one long and 4 short or 3 short? Just to make sure... Reason I am asking is I can't find a one long four short for an american megatrend bios.
> Beep Code Descriptions
> 1 short DRAM refresh failure
> 2 short Parity circuit failure
> 3 short Base 64K RAM failure
> 4 short System timer failure
> 5 short Process failure
> 6 short Keyboard controller Gate A20 error
> 7 short Virtual mode exception error
> 8 short Display memory Read/Write test failure
> 9 short ROM BIOS checksum failure
> 10 short CMOS shutdown Read/Write error
> 11 short Cache Memory error
> 1 long, 3 short Conventional/Extended memory failure
> 1 long, 8 short Display/Retrace test failed
> If you go by this list of error beeps and their descriptions your most likey issue is extended memory failure. I would suggest to test each stick individually, then with none at all and see if the error code changes. You can also see another list here. Hope you get it fixed bro. This is a great board would love for you to enjoy it like the rest of us.


Also, it's 1 long and 4 short beeps which they told me is a random boot failure. When they asked me to remove the memory I got 1 long beep and 2 short beeps repeating. The memory is fine I have been using it in my other pc for months before buying a new board.


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

I had the same issue and was able to fix it from someone answering it before, but I can't find that specific post right now. From my memory (which may not be too accurate) If you right click on My Computer, go to manage, then "Task Manager" you should see some sort of schedule for an Asus task. You can delete it and then you will no longer get the error


----------



## tech-guy

Thank you Ironeagle 666.

That fixed my "
"AsusSetup, c:\Users\XXXXXX\AppData\Local\Temp\144458Log.iniis lost"" Problem I had.

Thanks again

John


----------



## Sunz

Hi, I'm about to get this Sabertooth motherboard, and I'm wondering if any of you plays battlefield 3 with a dedicated audio card, because i keep reading about problems found in the asus and creative audio cards.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunz*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to get this Sabertooth motherboard, and I'm wondering if any of you plays battlefield 3 with a dedicated audio card, because i keep reading about problems found in the asus and creative audio cards.


I am playing BF3 with SabertoothZ77 and a Creative soundcard and i have no issues at all.


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunz*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to get this Sabertooth motherboard, and I'm wondering if any of you plays battlefield 3 with a dedicated audio card, because i keep reading about problems found in the asus and creative audio cards.


I'm using a Creative SC and the Sabertooth, I can play BF3 just fine.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunz*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to get this Sabertooth motherboard, and I'm wondering if any of you plays battlefield 3 with a dedicated audio card, because i keep reading about problems found in the asus and creative audio cards.


Asus Xonar DGX here, everything's fine


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunz*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to get this Sabertooth motherboard, and I'm wondering if any of you plays battlefield 3 with a dedicated audio card, because i keep reading about problems found in the asus and creative audio cards.


I believe they Released a Fix for the Phoebus. I remember reading Problems with this soundcard and BF3 on the Release..

As far as the Onboard Audio goes. Not Impressive ...


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Hi, I'm about to get this Sabertooth motherboard, and I'm wondering if any of you plays battlefield 3 with a dedicated audio card, because i keep reading about problems found in the asus and creative audio cards.


I play BF3 on mine on a weekly basis. What kind of audio setup are you planning to use? I use a pair for desktop speakers sometimes and have had no issues, I also use headphones and have had not issues as well. I haven't hooked up our 5.1 system simply because we live in a condo. Also a 5.1 system will add to the mess of wires already there so that was a game changer for me.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iron Eagle 666*
> 
> I had the same issue and was able to fix it from someone answering it before, but I can't find that specific post right now. From my memory (which may not be too accurate) If you right click on My Computer, go to manage, then "Task Manager" you should see some sort of schedule for an Asus task. You can delete it and then you will no longer get the error


I'll give this a try later today. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## Drecapz

Hey.

I am getting a SSD and I was told I needed to go into BIOS to optimize Windows 7 with my SSD. What menu in the Z77 Bios allows me to turn on ACHI? I want to install winnows on my new 64gb OCZ Agility without a hitch.

Thanks!!


----------



## dlanes

Got a new cpu for this board and it still does not want to boot. So this one is going back and I'm getting another board from another company. Seems like their quality has sure gone to ****. Two boards in a row that are defective.


----------



## BucketNakedz

love this freakin motherboard. its the only reason i chose the 1155 socket over 2011. it was just too bad ass for me not to build around.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drecapz*
> 
> Hey.
> I am getting a SSD and I was told I needed to go into BIOS to optimize Windows 7 with my SSD. What menu in the Z77 Bios allows me to turn on ACHI? I want to install winnows on my new 64gb OCZ Agility without a hitch.
> Thanks!!


AHCI is on by default


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

Have been getting massive hang time at boot up, Only started happening yesterday, I have seen others posting about it but I thought it was just the bios. I'm running 1504.

I suspect it had something to do with a recent windows update...

Any one got this problem sorted please.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tech-guy*
> 
> Thank you Ironeagle 666.
> That fixed my "
> "AsusSetup, c:\Users\XXXXXX\AppData\Local\Temp\144458Log.iniis lost"" Problem I had.
> Thanks again
> John


Hi John

I tried this last night and even turned off all the ASUS services and I still got the error after logging on to my comp. Could you tell me the steps you took to make the message go away?

Appreciate it.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Have been getting massive hang time at boot up, Only started happening yesterday, I have seen others posting about it but I thought it was just the bios. I'm running 1504.
> I suspect it had something to do with a recent windows update...
> Any one got this problem sorted please.


You mean when you start up the computer hangs for a while and than starts right?

At first I thought this was due to installing the latest lan drivers and also shared my concerns on this thread, but later I figured out it was due to the latest AUSuite I installed.

If Asus Suite 2 starts up automatically with windows than i have that hang time. I removed it from startup now I do not have the hang times. I than tested again and added Asus Suite 2 to the startup and I again had the hang time.

So if you have Asus Suite 2 and it starts with windows, than just make sure it doesnt.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Hi John
> I tried this last night and even turned off all the ASUS services and I still got the error after logging on to my comp. Could you tell me the steps you took to make the message go away?
> Appreciate it.


All programs> accessories> system tools> task scheduler
Disable Asus tasks.


----------



## tech-guy

Hello... I agree with Grunion I did the same steps and it worked.

Thanks,

John


----------



## tech-guy

Actually I deleted the Asus task that is what I did differently. Also includes un installed the Asus software completely.


----------



## garikfox

(removed)


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> All programs> accessories> system tools> task scheduler
> Disable Asus tasks.


grunion you're the man, I disabled the "i-Setup144458" task and that fixed it. Thanks!


----------



## trancefreak64

I posted awhile back about updating all the board software from ASUS. Last night after doing a system image restore and low and behold it was the new AI suite running a process making my LAN connection take forever and causing a delayed boot to desktop.

I see others have also figured it out here in the previous posts. First to ASUS CMON MAN. 2nd thanks to the community here figuring out the issue.

2nd my dumb butt ran ccleaner and got the ASUS set up ERROR log file in appdata crap. I got to figure that one out again.

EDIT: I remember the Task scheduler I-setup disable corrected it. DUH ^^^ post above me had the info eehh. Ah well im an Idiot


----------



## Hanoverfist

Hope you Guy's see the General Pattern that goes along with Using Asus Software..


----------



## leylek

i was using thermal armour. i tired to install an update of the program from thermal armour folder. but it didnt uninstall the existing thermal armour so i have an error on windows start up right now.
i should have used the setup program in the aisuite folder. whatever, now i am using fan xpert 2 and it works good for now. is there any alternative fan controller software.


----------



## navit

I seem to be having a down clock issue. I lowered my oc from 4.5 to 4.4 today and it stays at 4.4.
I checked the bios and all seem right. Any thoughts???

It would also seem that the CPU is running @ 26-32 load when idle on desktop, hmmmm.


----------



## Psykoboy2

Picked this as my mobo for my new build along with an i7-3770K. I'll be putting it all together tomorrow night and was wondering if there were any kind of first-timer tips or things I should know before I dive in on the installation.


----------



## garikfox

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1616 with RAID OROM 11.6.0.1702

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/dl-asus-p67-z68-bioss-with-updated-raid-rom


----------



## Hanoverfist

All right I'll Bite. 1616 here we go..


----------



## Seyumi

Um, I wouldn't install the newest bios if I were you guys. Every time I restart my computer it now boots into BIOS every time and I have to manually select my boot drive for windows to load. Does anyone know how to bypass this in the bios options? I went through every menu and I didn't see anything....


----------



## Grinch80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> All right I'll Bite. 1616 here we go..


Thoughts on the new bios Hanover? 1504 has been super stable for me, not sure I need 1616.


----------



## DoktorCreepy

New bios nice.


----------



## neopunx

Since I installed the new bios,1616, I am unable to overclock at all, with the exception of Asus Default OC. Then I switched back to 1504, and it still wont let me OC. Any thoughts?

edit: well I finally got my 1504 back and working agian, my OC is back to pre flash, but I could never get 1616 to work right. Oh well.....Asus FIX your ****E!


----------



## vf-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Hope you Guy's see the General Pattern that goes along with Using Asus Software..


It sure has given me grief. It's so temperamental same with the fan profile software. One time it started playing up, I was hoping a reinstall would fix it (it did in the past) but whatever it was it just kept playing up. Voltages and fan readings were all messed up and if not that it kept on crashing.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grinch80*
> 
> Thoughts on the new bios Hanover? 1504 has been super stable for me, not sure I need 1616.


Only got as far as Downloading it Today. Almost dont want to now. Maybe wait a month and watch this thread a bit first. I am solid with 1504..









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vf-*
> 
> It sure has given me grief. It's so temperamental same with the fan profile software. One time it started playing up, I was hoping a reinstall would fix it (it did in the past) but whatever it was it just kept playing up. Voltages and fan readings were all messed up and if not that it kept on crashing.


Yep. I have no need for there Junk..


----------



## Outcasst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garikfox*
> 
> SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1616 with RAID OROM 11.6.0.1702
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/dl-asus-p67-z68-bioss-with-updated-raid-rom


Same thing again, Security Verification failed and BIOS Flashback refuses to flash it


----------



## JJohnson1988

Loving 1616 with RAID OROM 11.6.0.1702 so far. My booting from optical drive issue was FINALLY fixed! So happy!

Everything seems stable. I have a bug with AI Suite where the BCLK value/slider displays incorrectly, but not a big deal.


----------



## Lolindirfab

Hi guys.

I have a little question here.

I have my 3770k runing at 4.5.

The problem is, I want my cpu always running at max freq. at 4.5 even if I'm doing nothing. I don't want my cpu runing at lower freq just because i'm not runing anthing "heavy".

I can't find that setting on the bios.

Can anyone help me?

Thanks


----------



## silvermamba

just updated from 1304 lol to 1616 seems to be working fine so far... I had issues with the 1304 because it would boot my USB instead of my SSD even when I set the boot priority


----------



## silvermamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AznDud*
> 
> is BIOS 1304 pretty solid?


No. lol


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Hi guys.
> I have a little question here.
> I have my 3770k runing at 4.5.
> The problem is, I want my cpu always running at max freq. at 4.5 even if I'm doing nothing. I don't want my cpu runing at lower freq just because i'm not runing anthing "heavy".
> I can't find that setting on the bios.
> Can anyone help me?
> Thanks


Switch to manual vcore.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Hi guys.
> I have a little question here.
> I have my 3770k runing at 4.5.
> The problem is, I want my cpu always running at max freq. at 4.5 even if I'm doing nothing. I don't want my cpu runing at lower freq just because i'm not runing anthing "heavy".
> I can't find that setting on the bios.
> Can anyone help me?
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Switch to manual vcore.


This^ and Disable Speed Step I think Too. Can i ask why you want it Pegged All the Time?


----------



## Augusto

I won't be updating to 1616, since 1504 is 100% stable and everything in the mobo is working perfetly well.
I think that this is just an update for all new ram sticks in the market.
I'll just wait and see how it goes over time.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seyumi*
> 
> Um, I wouldn't install the newest bios if I were you guys. Every time I restart my computer it now boots into BIOS every time and I have to manually select my boot drive for windows to load. Does anyone know how to bypass this in the bios options? I went through every menu and I didn't see anything....


I am having the exact same problem .


----------



## dark7721

hi not sure where to put this but i am running window 7 home premium 64 Bit i have 12 Gb of memory installed but the bios and windows is only showing 8Gb what am i doing wrong ? i know window 7 home premium 64 Bit has a 16Gb limit thats y i only got 12 but its only showing 8Gb

any advis will be gratfully recive thank in advance:thumb:


----------



## Grinch80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> I won't be updating to 1616, since 1504 is 100% stable and everything in the mobo is working perfetly well.
> I think that this is just an update for all new ram sticks in the market.
> I'll just wait and see how it goes over time.


Yep, same here.


----------



## Outcasst

Could anybody link me to a replacement bios chip which will work for this board?

Also, is it easy to replace?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Could anybody link me to a replacement bios chip which will work for this board?
> Also, is it easy to replace?


Asus estore

It's easier to replace than remove, if you don't use a tool.


----------



## Rakin

Can't you downgrade using the BIOS Flashback?


----------



## Lolindirfab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> This^ and Disable Speed Step I think Too. Can i ask why you want it Pegged All the Time?


Actually, this is just ignorance from my side. Do I get all the benefits of the OC @4.5 , let's say, in a game, if I just leave that the mobo with the offset vcore?

I really thought that the full benefits of the OC on a game will be see if i my cpu is on max freq all the time. :S

Thanks Guys


----------



## silvermamba

Try changing your RAM settings in BIOS to XMP mode.


----------



## silvermamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi not sure where to put this but i am running window 7 home premium 64 Bit i have 12 Gb of memory installed but the bios and windows is only showing 8Gb what am i doing wrong ? i know window 7 home premium 64 Bit has a 16Gb limit thats y i only got 12 but its only showing 8Gb
> any advis will be gratfully recive thank in advance:thumb:


try changing ram settings to XMP mode in Bios


----------



## KingKwentyne

My board wont even let me install this new 1616bios. It keeps saying security verification failure. Anyone else got this problem?

Edit: Moved the file to my 2tb storage drive which is plugged into the usb 3.0 port and seemed to have solved the problem. I am back at my everyday clock of 4.0Ghz with problems at all. So far.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Actually, this is just ignorance from my side. Do I get all the benefits of the OC @4.5 , let's say, in a game, if I just leave that the mobo with the offset vcore?
> I really thought that the full benefits of the OC on a game will be see if i my cpu is on max freq all the time. :S
> Thanks Guys


Yes you get the full benefits of your OC.

My replacement board finally arrived, I'm going in









RIP PRO


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Guys,

Just flashed to the latest bios *1616*, Works fine except it tried to manually overclock for me. Had to play around for a bit at one stage it would not let me change the CPU ratio it was stuck on 41.
*
All working good now but it definitely has some floors*.

I'm still getting slow boot times from my SSD as of last week, It hangs on the Asus Logo at start up.

I have tried a few things to fix it but no luck, I don't have AI Suit installed and no Asus software running at start up.

SSD is a OCZ Agility 3 120GB.


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Just flashed to the latest bios *1616*, Works fine except it tried to manually overclock for me. Had to play around for a bit at one stage it would not let me change the CPU ratio it was stuck on 41.
> *
> All working good now but it definitely has some floors*.
> I'm still getting slow boot times from my SSD as of last week, It hangs on the Asus Logo at start up.
> I have tried a few things to fix it but no luck, I don't have AI Suit installed and no Asus software running at start up.
> SSD is a OCZ Agility 3 120GB.


NEW Firmware 2.25 is out for your SSD

http://www.ocztechnology.com/ssd_tools/SandForce_Based/


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Yes you get the full benefits of your OC.
> My replacement board finally arrived, I'm going in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RIP PRO


Im watching the video for this mobo as we speak, looks awesome, is it worth it?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> Im watching the video for this mobo as we speak, looks awesome, is it worth it?


YES!!!!!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> Im watching the video for this mobo as we speak, looks awesome, is it worth it?


I'd say so..
None of the pretty ROG lights, just a straight forward down to business board.



Finally up and running.
Couple little hiccups, alignment/fitment of the i/o shield, didn't quite want to line up with the board.
The board wouldn't power on at first then I noticed the bios button flashing, pressed it and it powered up.
Await my IB cpu before I form my final opinion.
For now I'll see if I can get 48x on my SB, hopefully it will do it.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> I won't be updating to 1616, since 1504 is 100% stable and everything in the mobo is working perfetly well.
> I think that this is just an update for all new ram sticks in the market.
> I'll just wait and see how it goes over time.


Amen to that + I have had major issues lately with ASUS software. I think I finally nailed. ASUS SYSTEM CONTROL SERVICE = DISABLED


----------



## trancefreak64

Excuse my noobish question but, I have been having some hell going on with my PC of late. I even went back to a system image restore twice because of this.

I cant install the latest ASUS Suite 2 V. Even if I disable the items mentioned on the the forum board in Task scheduler. Today everything was going well and windows update did a Intel management interface update.

What happens is with suite or intel drivers I dunno but I have been fine with the earlier versions of Intel software and ASUS Suite. But I rebooted everything gets passed the loading screen and the monitor goes black. If I remove my display driver or boot into safe mode I am fine.

So I do what any PC builder would do and go threw every inch of hardware connected 1x1 and was still stumped. Then I went into services disabled everything related to Intel and ASUS and walla boot to desktop. Making the story short here. it is this POS: *Asus system control service.* That is one of my issues despite the other tasks that run in the task scheduler.









Does anyone know what that System control is for? I am pretty sure it has something to do with the Suite service. Also the Intel management interface Firmware update always stalls out and I don't know why unless it is unnecessary to install. seriously what is up with this. it is ASUS own software app and it is problematic. Thanks to all the peeps looking into these issues here.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> Excuse my noobish question but, I have been having some hell going on with my PC of late. I even went back to a system image restore twice because of this.
> I cant install the latest ASUS Suite 2 V. Even if I disable the items mentioned on the the forum board in Task scheduler. Today everything was going well and windows update did a Intel management interface update.
> What happens is with suite or intel drivers I dunno but I have been fine with the earlier versions of Intel software and ASUS Suite. But I rebooted everything gets passed the loading screen and the monitor goes black. If I remove my display driver or boot into safe mode I am fine.
> So I do what any PC builder would do and go threw every inch of hardware connected 1x1 and was still stumped. Then I went into services disabled everything related to Intel and ASUS and walla boot to desktop. Making the story short here. it is this POS: *Asus system control service.* That is one of my issues despite the other tasks that run in the task scheduler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what that System control is for? I am pretty sure it has something to do with the Suite service. Also the Intel management interface Firmware update always stalls out and I don't know why unless it is unnecessary to install. seriously what is up with this. it is ASUS own software app and it is problematic. Thanks to all the peeps looking into these issues here.


I was having problems with both sets of software as well. Did a clean install of windows. Didnt install any of the AI suite or the intel management stuff. Not one prob a crash since then. It is not necessary. Make sure to get drivers for your hardware but all the management software is not a must.


----------



## dark7721

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvermamba*
> 
> try changing ram settings to XMP mode in Bios


Hi thanks for reply i have xmp in bios on it not make any diffence anything else i can try ?


----------



## PTCB

So the consensus on the AI Suite is? Useless? I have read comments about it but not sure how the suite has fared since. Cheers.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> So the consensus on the AI Suite is? Useless? I have read comments about it but not sure how the suite has fared since. Cheers.


I would agree it is buggy as a camels anus.

Are these services supposed to be running ? I don't have AI Suit Installed.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> Hi thanks for reply i have xmp in bios on it not make any diffence anything else i can try ?


Hi dark7721,

Did I read you were running 3 x 4 gig sticks for a total of 12 gig ?

This is a dual channel board so i would suggest just running two sticks in slots 2 and 4.

If it is only seeing 4 gig that is bizarre, Are you %100 sure your running 64 bit windows.

Go to start and right click on my computer, Then go to properties and look under system type 32 or 64 bit ?


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> So the consensus on the AI Suite is? Useless? I have read comments about it but not sure how the suite has fared since. Cheers.


It's buggy for sure (I had some issues getting it to run, but now it runs wonderfully). But I don't necessarily agree with most saying that it's completely useless. Now that I've got it running, I think it's actually pretty decent and delivers a bit of fun. The thermal radar is a nice feature, quickly checking what points on your mobo are getting hot (and especially how hot). Also, I've used the BIOS update tool from the AI suite twice, and it worked perfectly on both occasions.

Is it a really good piece of kit? No. But I wouldn't say it's completely useless either.


----------



## dark7721

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi dark7721,
> Did I read you were running 3 x 4 gig sticks for a total of 12 gig ?
> This is a dual channel board so i would suggest just running two sticks in slots 2 and 4.
> If it is only seeing 4 gig that is bizarre, Are you %100 sure your running 64 bit windows.
> Go to start and right click on my computer, Then go to properties and look under system type 32 or 64 bit ?


hi i have check and yes i am running 64 bit . it said 8gb not 4 like you said in you message you say this is a dual channel board whitch is fine but the memory i got was on the memory QV list its a kinston 12Gb set ive check and it is deffontly on the list . thanks for you help if you could explan why its on the list if its only a dual channel board that would be good just so i dont make the mistake of getting wrong memory againg thanks for you time and help ..


----------



## dark7721




----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*


Cool mate just stick with the 8 gig, As long as it is dual channel that will be more than enough ram.


----------



## PTCB

@Hurtn4ASquirtn

You have the exact same services running as me, but I have AI suite installed. Weird.

(I was gonna post pic but there seems to be a problem with the server. Can't quote either.)

@keesgelder

Thank you for your input. I also find it useful (fan settings), especially for my pump.







With that said, I'm having a problem with the fan utility; access denied something.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Actually, this is just ignorance from my side. Do I get all the benefits of the OC @4.5 , let's say, in a game, if I just leave that the mobo with the offset vcore?
> I really thought that the full benefits of the OC on a game will be see if i my cpu is on max freq all the time. :S
> Thanks Guys


No need to have a Manual set clock for what your doing with it.. Let the cpu clock and Voltage Ramp up and down based on Load Demand..
Thats one of the Coolest features IMHO..









HERE is a UEFI Tuning Guide to explain some of the Bios Features...


----------



## Z Overlord

So what exactly do the new Bios do?


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I would agree it is buggy as a camels anus.
> Are these services supposed to be running ? I don't have AI Suit Installed.


Ok if you didn't install and remove any Asus suites then I am tending to believe they are dumping it into the Intel updated drivers in their package installer.

I grabbed some intel drivers off of Intel's website last night. I went one by one to make sure they would work with my motherboard although it is for the same hardware there are some different numbers compared to Asus Intel drivers.

I think we are getting this board and software dialed in but it sucks when everything is fine and you trust the next update will bring performance. I am sticking to what i originally installed and not updating unless I know for sure it isn't going to cause blank screens or network service issues on start up.


----------



## Sunz

Hello guys, I just got my sabertooth board







. I just wanted to ask something, is it ok for the core to be at 1600 Mhz? I'm not planning on overclocking for now, thanks


----------



## JJohnson1988

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunz*
> 
> Hello guys, I just got my sabertooth board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just wanted to ask something, is it ok for the core to be at 1600 Mhz? I'm not planning on overclocking for now, thanks


Looks normal. Your frequency should return to normal once the processor has a sufficient load on it. SpeedStep is what changes both the core voltage and the core multiplier.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> So what exactly do the new Bios do?


Quote:


> escription SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1616
> 1.Improve system stability.
> 2.Improve memory compatibility.
> File Size
> 4,37 (MBytes) 2012.10.18 update
> Download from
> Global (DLM) Global


----------



## Jim Pomerville

I happened upon this thread today , Has the bios update process changed ? .. Is this for z77 boards as well ? .... Thank you all for the great posts on this thread ,,,









http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?20587-Video-Guide-CAP-Converter-BIOS-Update&country=&status=


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> I happened upon this thread today , Has the bios update process changed ? .. Is this for z77 boards as well ? .... Thank you all for the great posts on this thread ,,,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?20587-Video-Guide-CAP-Converter-BIOS-Update&country=&status=


Z77 Bios's are already a CAP File. No Need To Convert . Although you do Rename the Bios File after downloading it. to Z77ST.CAP Before Flashing..


----------



## Gir

I'm considering upgrading to a used sabertooth partially so I can take advantage of TRIM with RAID 0. Would I have to update the BIOS for it to work?


----------



## Jakusonfire

New 40mm fans for I/O assist fan slot.
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=47&lng=en


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Hi guys.
> I have a little question here.
> I have my 3770k runing at 4.5.
> The problem is, I want my cpu always running at max freq. at 4.5 even if I'm doing nothing. I don't want my cpu runing at lower freq just because i'm not runing anthing "heavy".
> I can't find that setting on the bios.
> Can anyone help me?
> Thanks


There is several ways to do this.
You can set intel speedstep to disabled in the bios and that sort of thing or you can just set windows to high performance. That will set the cpu minimum to 100%


----------



## Jim Pomerville

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Z77 Bios's are already a CAP File. No Need To Convert . Although you do Rename the Bios File after downloading it. to Z77ST.CAP Before Flashing..


That's what i thought but wasn't sure ,,,,,Thank you Hanoverfist , Your help thru out this whole thread has been incredibly helpful ....


----------



## PTCB

I'm using the new BIOS 1616 and experiencing this problem of having to re-enter the values in the BIOS settings for a couple of times now. Anyone having the same problem?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jim Pomerville*
> 
> That's what i thought but wasn't sure ,,,,,Thank you Hanoverfist , Your help thru out this whole thread has been incredibly helpful ....
Click to expand...









~~~









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> I'm using the new BIOS 1616 and experiencing this problem of having to re-enter the values in the BIOS settings for a couple of times now. Anyone having the same problem?


I wont be trying the new bios.. so not much help in that Question but Thanks for posting the Problem and Someone will pick this Up I am sure..


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I wont be trying the new bios.. so not much help in that Question but Thanks for posting the Problem and Someone will pick this Up I am sure..


I know that's part of the reason why I posted here. Just as a precaution to others who're thinking about getting it.

BTW, you can just always flash the old BIOS back, right? Just in case, it (1616) does get worse.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Z77 Bios's are already a CAP File. No Need To Convert . Although you do Rename the Bios File after downloading it. to Z77ST.CAP Before Flashing..


I never rename mine when installing via flash drive...


----------



## Sunz

Joining the club

-Intel i7 3770k+Thermaltake Water 2.0. PRO
-You know what mb i have
-16gb DDR3 1866 Corsair Vengeance
-120 GB SSD Kingston 3k
-1 TB Seagate
- EVGA GTX 680
- 850W Power Supply Corsair HX850
- Cooler Master HAF XM


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> I never rename mine when installing via flash drive...


I have always just followed the Renaming Rule. Interesting..
Quote:


> Z77/H77 Series BIOS Renaming Rule
> DE108
> After downloading the BIOS file from the ASUS website, rename it as shown in the table below when using the following BIOS tools:
> • USB BIOS Flashback
> • ASUS Crashfree BIOS3


Model name
BIOS name (.CAP extension)
MAXIMUS V GENE
M5G.CAP
SABERTOOTH Z77
Z77ST.CAP
P8Z77-V DELUXE
Z77VD.CAP
P8Z77-V PRO
Z77VP.CAP
P8Z77-V
Z77VB.CAP
P8Z77-M PRO
P8Z77MP.CAP
P8Z77-M
P8Z77M.CAP
P8Z77-V LE
P8Z77VLE.CAP
P8Z77-V LX
P8Z77VLX.CAP
P8Z77-V LK
P8Z77VLK.CAP
P8H77-V
P8H77V.CAP
P8H77-V LE
P8H77VLE.CAP
P8H77-M PRO
P8H77MP.CAP
P8H77-M
P8H77M.CAP
P8H77-M LE
P8H77MLE.CAP
P8B75-V
P8B75V.CAP
P8B75-M
P8B75.CAP
P8B75-M LE
P8B75LE.CAP
P8Q77-M
P8Q77.CAP
P8H77-I
P8H77I.CAP


----------



## Z Overlord

Oh when I flash my bios I flash within the bios and not using the flashback method


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> I'm using the new BIOS 1616 and experiencing this problem of having to re-enter the values in the BIOS settings for a couple of times now. Anyone having the same problem?


Which values? voltages and freqs and such? I haven't experienced anything like this.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Which values? voltages and freqs and such? I haven't experienced anything like this.


Everything. I'm begining to suspect that it might be the CMOS battery. Anyhow, I'm back on 1504. If it happens again, I'll let you know.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Everything. I'm begining to suspect that it might be the CMOS battery. Anyhow, I'm back on 1504. If it happens again, I'll let you know.


Please do. If it's everything, then I suspect youre right if its everytime on shutdown/restart.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> I'm using the new BIOS 1616 and experiencing this problem of having to re-enter the values in the BIOS settings for a couple of times now. Anyone having the same problem?


I had a similar problem where for some reason it auto overclocked and set my core ratio to 41.

It was locked like this and would not let me change it. A couple of F5 I think it is to restore to default and reboot fixed it.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I had a similar problem where for some reason it auto overclocked and set my core ratio to 41.
> It was locked like this and would not let me change it. A couple of F5 I think it is to restore to default and reboot fixed it.


Fixed it as in your still on 1616 and have not had the problem again since?


----------



## PTCB

Right, anyone know who to disble CPU Load Line Calibration? Does setting it to 0% disable it? Thank you.

EDIT: Did a quick search on here and nothing.







Also, can you use the Fan Xpert with this board?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Right, anyone know who to disble CPU Load Line Calibration? Does setting it to 0% disable it? Thank you.
> EDIT: Did a quick search on here and nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, can you use the Fan Xpert with this board?


No way to disable it. Setting it to 0% just reduces the spectrum. My reasoning for not allowing it to be disabled is simply because you can never get rid of droop, so there is no reason, even when manually configuring everything, to turn it off... It would just kill a cpu lol. For OC purposes tho, your def gonna want it at a higher level depending on your clock.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> No way to disable it. Setting it to 0% just reduces the spectrum. My reasoning for not allowing it to be disabled is simply because you can never get rid of droop, so there is no reason, even when manually configuring everything, to turn it off... It would just kill a cpu lol. For OC purposes tho, your def gonna want it at a higher level depending on your clock.


I see. But, I thought that Vdroop was part of Intel power delivery design as illustrated in this picture.



I've overclocked my i5 2500K following this concept and it was rock solid 24/7 at 4.4GHz @1.25v using offset voltage and with CPU LLC disabled. And the spikes during load change never exceeded the CPU VID limit. I'm not trying to say that you're wrong. But what am I missing here? Thanks.









EDIT: Here's a quote from the article:
Quote:


> ASUS' implementation of this feature, labeled as Load Line Calibration and included with their latest line of motherboards, is particularly worthy of our attention for a number of reasons. The first is that setting lower voltages with this option enabled actually results in a condition in which the CPU voltage under load is higher than the idle voltage. Imagine our confusion as we desperately struggle to understand why our system is Prime95 stable for days yet continues to crash under absolutely no load. What's more, in spite of the absence of droop and for reasons unknown, enabling this feature artificially raises our CPU's minimum stable core voltage at 4.0GHz from 1.28V to about 1.33V. As a result, our system uses more power under load than is otherwise necessary. Our efforts to reduce our processor's supply voltage backfired - instead of lowering the system's total power consumption we managed to affect a 20W increase.


----------



## pbebeto

hey guys, here my specs : i5 3570k / z77 sabertooth / 16gb gskill sniper 1600mhz / ax 850w / msi gtx 680 lightning /

iam using my pc at 4.2ghz , and the only thing that i changed on the bios was the mult for 42x and the cpu vcore to 1.15 v

its correct/???? i dont get any error or something like that, but i want to know if its right to overclock like i did.


----------



## Pandaseatcake

hello there. soon to be owner of the sabertooth z77 here.
How is windows 8 integrating with this board so far? I'm putting together a new build and plan on loading it straight up with windows 8 and want to see if i'm going to running into any issues.
simply put, should i update to 1616 (or w/e the newest version will be) first before installing my OS to possibly increase compatibility? Or would it be better to install OS first and then update bios as necessary? Any suggestions or input is welcome.

thanks in advance!


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Z77 Bios's are already a CAP File. No Need To Convert . Although you do Rename the Bios File after downloading it. to Z77ST.CAP Before Flashing..


Thanks for helping me with the renaming .My flash went perfectly ! I will admit though ,I like my EVGA FTW-200 board,with 3 Bios' and super easy Bios updates right from the desktop. I have heard of Asus' reputation for a few years ,and always wanted to own one. I love the Board .


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Everything. I'm begining to suspect that it might be the CMOS battery. Anyhow, I'm back on 1504. If it happens again, I'll let you know.


Speaking of the CMOS battery,They sure made it real easy to access !!!!! I can't find mine for the life of me. I guess it's under the "TUF Armour ?


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Speaking of the CMOS battery,They sure made it real easy to access !!!!! I can't find mine for the life of me. I guess it's under the "TUF Armour ?


LOL. Yeah. And it gets worse for W/C folks. I hope it's not the battery. It's under the armor between the two PCI-E slots (1 and 2) and near the Z77 chip.


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> New 40mm fans for I/O assist fan slot.
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=47&lng=en


I DO WANT!!
The ones that comes with the board are really noisy, even at low rpm.


----------



## leylek

updated to bios 1616 with bios flashback button. no problem. works good.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> New 40mm fans for I/O assist fan slot.
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=47&lng=en


Nice, my fans emit a faint whining noise so I have a custom setting that allows them to turn off below a certain CPU temp.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Speaking of the CMOS battery,They sure made it real easy to access !!!!! I can't find mine for the life of me. I guess it's under the "TUF Armour ?


Board without Armor for Anyone Who needs the Reference as to Battery Location or Other Hidden Goodies..
Oh and Thanks for the Easy Access on this Board?? PITA.......


----------



## iARDAs

I woulnd't have loved this motherboard as much if it did not have an armor.

From now on I will always look for a case with armor on it. For visual quality of course. I like how it looks inside my case.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I woulnd't have loved this motherboard as much if it did not have an armor.
> 
> From now on I will always look for a case with armor on it. For visual quality of course. I like how it looks inside my case.


+1.....I do love the Look Too..


----------



## leylek

i like the board. i like the armor. but these 40 mm bastards can be annoying.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i like the board. i like the armor. but these 40 mm bastards can be annoying.


I am thinking of replacing the 40mm fans but I wonder if it would be beneficial to be honest.



This motherboard is a great motherboard for my new case mod.

Notice how the thermal armor is surrounding the circuints on the motherboard?

Also i love the covers for PCI slots etc. Its a nice little touch.

I also have 2 4gb rams and the other 2 slots were emtpy bu I placed the RAM cover and it looks beautiful.

Honestly this board is a winner visually.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leylek*
> 
> i like the board. i like the armor. but these 40 mm bastards can be annoying.


...and AI Suite II


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I am thinking of replacing the 40mm fans but I wonder if it would be beneficial to be honest.
> 
> This motherboard is a great motherboard for my new case mod.
> Notice how the thermal armor is surrounding the circuints on the motherboard?
> Also i love the covers for PCI slots etc. Its a nice little touch.
> I also have 2 4gb rams and the other 2 slots were emtpy bu I placed the RAM cover and it looks beautiful.
> Honestly this board is a winner visually.


Nice cable management. LOL


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Nice cable management. LOL


Gonna be even nicer soon


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> ...and AI Suite II


+1


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> I DO WANT!!
> The ones that comes with the board are really noisy, even at low rpm.


These are replacements for the little mini fans that cool inside the TUF armour? If so ,I want them for sure.


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> These are replacements for the little mini fans that cool inside the TUF armour? If so ,I want them for sure.


Yes, they are, but I don't know the noise level.
I'm gonna replace the back one with a 40mm and the middle one with another 35mm, both sleeve bearing.
The major problem with these stock 35mm fans is that they are ball bearing, wich means more efficiency and longer lifetime but higher noise.


----------



## iARDAs

What do you guys believe the impact of the 40mm fans are in our motherboards?

anyone ever tested them off and on?


----------



## Augusto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> What do you guys believe the impact of the 40mm fans are in our motherboards?
> anyone ever tested them off and on?


In this thread you can find several links about temperatures with and without the armor, and fans on and off.


----------



## rmorse27

The assist fans are 35 mm in size not 40mm unless Asus has changed them lately.I replaced the side fan with a 40mm just recently and it was slightly bigger than the stock one.


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I am thinking of replacing the 40mm fans but I wonder if it would be beneficial to be honest.
> 
> This motherboard is a great motherboard for my new case mod.
> Notice how the thermal armor is surrounding the circuints on the motherboard?
> Also i love the covers for PCI slots etc. Its a nice little touch.
> I also have 2 4gb rams and the other 2 slots were emtpy bu I placed the RAM cover and it looks beautiful.
> Honestly this board is a winner visually.


Loving the Hulk


----------



## Epimetheus

... mine

http://www.overclock.net/t/1320019/build-log-seans-blackice-build


----------



## ZzyzxFromOR

Quote:


> Board without Armor for Anyone Who needs the Reference as to Battery Location or Other Hidden Goodies..
> Oh and Thanks for the Easy Access on this Board?? PITA.......


The first thing I did with my two Z-77 Sabertooths was to pull off the armor and replace the batteries with freshly bought ones. Only then did I replace the armor and install the boards in their cases.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZzyzxFromOR*
> 
> The first thing I did with my two Z-77 Sabertooths was to pull off the armor and replace the batteries with freshly bought ones. Only then did I replace the armor and install the boards in their cases.


ASUS sould of made a removeable cover for the batteries on the board


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> I see. But, I thought that Vdroop was part of Intel power delivery design as illustrated in this picture.
> 
> I've overclocked my i5 2500K following this concept and it was rock solid 24/7 at 4.4GHz @1.25v using offset voltage and with CPU LLC disabled. And the spikes during load change never exceeded the CPU VID limit. I'm not trying to say that you're wrong. But what am I missing here? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Here's a quote from the article:


Not sure I even said anything that could be deemed "wrong" as what I said (other than you can't disable LLC) is phenomena. Anyway, Apologize for taking so long to reply...

Your spikes aren't going to exceed the vid limit because you can't disable LLC or vdroop... so i'm not sure what you mean by having it disabled during your clock. Even at 0% its going to have a voltage range. at a 4.4 clock @ 1.25v, that is considered average and not extreme. So there is no need to have a higher setting than default there, which is probably why you didn't push to vid limit.

LLC is directly affected by cpu vid. At 0% it still takes into consideration the "droop". What it does at higher levels, is increases the range limits so that your CPU doesn't crash during high clocks with high voltages. hence the reason why your idle may be higher when it is "on" or at a higher percentage.

edit: Oh, I just realized you meant about the "droop." When I said droop, I was simply referring to the naturally occurring fluctuation that occurs when your processor goes from idle to load and vice versa. But yes, vdroop is essentially like LLC in that it is a safety mechanism that averages a safe voltage to the processor.


----------



## MadHocus

A bit of trouble shooting with my Rig if anyone would like to help. I am a complete noob and first time building so go easy Everything looks in the right spot, but just need to be sure

1. I've got the LED+ LEd- from the front of my Zalman Z11 plus case and they are single pins rather than double, hopefully they are place correctly. Bottom right + Green -White there on the lower pin slots. Power SW and Rest SW are also on the lower slots but they are 2 pin. I have also got an H.D.D LED cable but don't know where in the hell that goes.

2. After getting my H60 plugged in along with my 2 assisted fans, kind of stomped on pluging in the pump. from the sounds of previous post fan4 seems to be a choice as long as I sort it in the bios?

3. Lastly there is a 4 pin in the bottom left corner of the board does is that for my (psu)?

I know these may be some very simple and basic things but I'd rather not destroy the hours of work that I put in.

Thanks


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> A bit of trouble shooting with my Rig if anyone would like to help. I am a complete noob and first time building so go easy Everything looks in the right spot, but just need to be sure
> 1. I've got the LED+ LEd- from the front of my Zalman Z11 plus case and they are single pins rather than double, hopefully they are place correctly. Bottom right + Green -White there on the lower pin slots. Power SW and Rest SW are also on the lower slots but they are 2 pin. I have also got an H.D.D LED cable but don't know where in the hell that goes.
> 2. After getting my H60 plugged in along with my 2 assisted fans, kind of stomped on pluging in the pump. from the sounds of previous post fan4 seems to be a choice as long as I sort it in the bios?
> 3. Lastly there is a 4 pin in the bottom left corner of the board does is that for my (psu)?
> I know these may be some very simple and basic things but I'd rather not destroy the hours of work that I put in.
> Thanks


Looks like everything is fine.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> A bit of trouble shooting with my Rig if anyone would like to help. I am a complete noob and first time building so go easy Everything looks in the right spot, but just need to be sure
> 1. I've got the LED+ LEd- from the front of my Zalman Z11 plus case and they are single pins rather than double, hopefully they are place correctly. Bottom right + Green -White there on the lower pin slots. Power SW and Rest SW are also on the lower slots but they are 2 pin. I have also got an H.D.D LED cable but don't know where in the hell that goes.
> 2. After getting my H60 plugged in along with my 2 assisted fans, kind of stomped on pluging in the pump. from the sounds of previous post fan4 seems to be a choice as long as I sort it in the bios?
> 3. Lastly there is a 4 pin in the bottom left corner of the board does is that for my (psu)?
> I know these may be some very simple and basic things but I'd rather not destroy the hours of work that I put in.
> Thanks


Looks to be fine from pictures, but always check yourself. Grab that mobo user manual and study up. It tells you literally how and where to do/plug everything! If, after this, you still have questions because of verbage or something is confusing. Ask away my man!


----------



## Outcasst

Why don't you use the riser for it? Shows you where to plug everything. Just remember that the + is the coloured wire and the - is the black/white wire.


----------



## gatornation240

I think she'll be here Monday (hopefully). Gonna put my FX board in a new case and give it to my lil bro, get him away from the dreaded consoles.


----------



## MadHocus

Thanks Outcasst, Likethegun & Rakin. My Blueray is in transit so it will give me some more good reading time. I'm trying to follow it to the letter. However I got absolutely nothing on this HDD cable.

Cheers Fellas Hopefully come Tuesday I am up and running

Just plain itching to get it done now.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks. Today I finally installed WIN8 and I am loving it

Quick question.

On the drivers page of our MOBO at asus.com, there are no USB drivers under Windows 8.

Should I just go ahead and install the Win7 USB drivers?

Thank you.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Aoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a tatol mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. This is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe.


LOL, funny









Give my regards to Prince Harry


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks. Today I finally installed WIN8 and I am loving it
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> On the drivers page of our MOBO at asus.com, there are no USB drivers under Windows 8.
> 
> Should I just go ahead and install the Win7 USB drivers?
> 
> Thank you.


I don't think it needs them for Windows 8, not sure


----------



## trancefreak64

Has anyone had any benifits of installing bios version 1616. Is there any features for windows 8 on there besides the quick info ASUS supplies.

I have been on 1504 and it has been solid. I have a great overclock @ 4.6ghz on my 2600k and dont want to dab into any unnecessary waters. i know i can flash back but I read a few people here were having issues.

If anyone has had a good experience with the latest bios overclocked could you please let me know thanks.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> Has anyone had any benifits of installing bios version 1616. Is there any features for windows 8 on there besides the quick info ASUS supplies.
> I have been on 1504 and it has been solid. I have a great overclock @ 4.6ghz on my 2600k and dont want to dab into any unnecessary waters. i know i can flash back but I read a few people here were having issues.
> If anyone has had a good experience with the latest bios overclocked could you please let me know thanks.


my experience is good, just press f12 in the bios at every important bios page to get a screenshot (have a usb flash drive plugged in). It works like print screen in windows, what you see is what is screenshotted, so if a page has a scroll bar you need multiple pics per page


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> my experience is good, just press f12 in the bios at every important bios page to get a screenshot (have a usb flash drive plugged in). It works like print screen in windows, what you see is what is screenshotted, so if a page has a scroll bar you need multiple pics per page


Thanks man I flashed it got all my settings back up after doing a back up of my BIOS over clocked and optimized defaults.

And it worked flawlessly my overclocking went very well. 1616 BIOS no problems on my end.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Not sure I even said anything that could be deemed "wrong" as what I said (other than you can't disable LLC) is phenomena. Anyway, Apologize for taking so long to reply...
> Your spikes aren't going to exceed the vid limit because you can't disable LLC or vdroop... so i'm not sure what you mean by having it disabled during your clock. Even at 0% its going to have a voltage range. at a 4.4 clock @ 1.25v, that is considered average and not extreme. So there is no need to have a higher setting than default there, which is probably why you didn't push to vid limit.
> LLC is directly affected by cpu vid. At 0% it still takes into consideration the "droop". What it does at higher levels, is increases the range limits so that your CPU doesn't crash during high clocks with high voltages. hence the reason why your idle may be higher when it is "on" or at a higher percentage.
> edit: Oh, I just realized you meant about the "droop." When I said droop, I was simply referring to the naturally occurring fluctuation that occurs when your processor goes from idle to load and vice versa. But yes, vdroop is essentially like LLC in that it is a safety mechanism that averages a safe voltage to the processor.


Thank you for taking the time to answer my question.







I've settled with 0% for now. It's been fine and did not exceed the limit during load change just like you said.



BTW, that graph is from Anandtech and not my actual settings. Mine is 4.4GHz at 1.176v. Stress tests ongoing.

Oh, and I found out what happened to my M/B. It wasn't the battery which wasn't a surprise. What surprised me was how a BIOS flash done in UEFI/BIOS could result in a bad flash. Everything went smooth when I did it; showing successful and such. I say bad flash because when I did it again but this time through the Asus' USB BIOS Flashback when power off, it fixed the problem. I thought flashing BIOS in UEFI/BIOS was safe enough compared to in Windows environment. Did it with my previous M/Bs and all worked fine. So, 1616 BIOS is not the problem.

Now just to replace the battery, I had to take the loop down.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to answer my question.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've settled with 0% for now. It's been fine and did not exceed the limit during load change just like you said.
> 
> BTW, that graph is from Anandtech and not my actual settings. Mine is 4.4GHz at 1.176v. Stress tests ongoing.


Very nice! I wish I knew the actual voltage ranges for the LLC settings to give you... but as I don't do any extreme overclocking I have never had to mess with it... I'm sure someone out there has though and you could probably find the numbers if you ever need to. But, 0% is just fine for me too @ 4.5 and ~ 1.25v. I'm assuming that higher clock at around 1.3+v is where your going to want to start messing with it, but that is just speculation.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> All programs> accessories> system tools> task scheduler
> Disable Asus tasks.


How to do this in Windows 8?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Augusto*
> 
> Yes, they are, but I don't know the noise level.
> I'm gonna replace the back one with a 50mm and the middle one with a 40mm, both sleeve bearing.
> The major problem with these stock 40mm fans is that they are ball bearing, wich means more efficiency and longer lifetime but higher noise.


The fans that come with the board are 35mm. A 40mm fan can be fitted to the IO intake slot with the extra mount provided. A 50mm won't fit.

I have the noctua 40mm fan in now and its much quieter at faster speeds and moves more air so I can both have it set higher before noise is an issue and it performs better at full load.

The only problem with them is that although they are advertised as being 10mm thick, they don't quite fit on the mount. I had to very slightly modify the mount to get the fan in.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The fans that come with the board are 35mm. A 40mm fan can be fitted to the IO intake slot with the extra mount provided. A 50mm won't fit.
> I have the noctua 40mm fan in now and its much quieter at faster speeds and moves more air so I can both have it set higher before noise is an issue and it performs better at full load.
> The only problem with them is that although they are advertised as being 10mm thick, they don't quite fit on the mount. I had to very slightly modify the mount to get the fan in.


Thanks for this info







gonna look into the 40mm noctuas! Got noctua 140 mms in my case and LOVE them. Absolutely the most quiet fans I have ever come across yet. What kind of "slight mod" are you referring to?


----------



## Jakusonfire

I just had to grind off a small plastic lip on the mount that was preventing the fan from aligning with the screw holes. It is the very slight raised edge on the opposite side of the fan to the holes.

I have had other 40mm X 10mm fans in there without trouble. The Noctua is by far the best I have tried though


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I just had to grind off a small plastic lip on the mount that was preventing the fan from aligning with the screw holes. It is the very slight raised edge on the opposite side of the fan to the holes.
> I have had other 40mm X 10mm fans in there without trouble. The Noctua is by far the best I have tried though


Def gonna try it out! Thanks again man. After buying the noctua case fans, I will NEVER go to anything else. Even full speed they are pretty darn quiet. Obviously, the small you go, the more annoying, but I imagine in the world of mini-fans. Noctua is probably the best.


----------



## Edb007th

TO ALL OF THE BADARSE MOFO'S WHO HAVE POSTED AND CONTINUE TO POST YOUR PROPHETIC KNOWLEDGE FOR US NOOBS...

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you

I have achieved great things because of your combined tutelage. You guys drink for free!

EdB007th


----------



## Hanoverfist

Just add Water


----------



## grunion

^^Pretty, time to OC...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> How to do this in Windows 8?


Google says this


----------



## PTCB

I searched on here but I can't seem to find the answer. Saw a few people asked about it but no answer.

Where is the setting for "VCCIO" in the BIOS/UEFI?

Thanks.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> ^^Pretty, time to OC...
> Google says this


Thanks 

@ everyone else.

Ok I really want to remove Asus Suite 2 from my PC because it gives me lag while booting and i hate it.

Do you guys really think the fast charging capabilities and USB 3.0 boost are worthy tools?

Also is there a way to disable the chasis fans or change its profile within the UEFI?

Thank you.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ everyone else.
> 
> Ok I really want to remove Asus Suite 2 from my PC because it gives me lag while booting and i hate it.
> 
> Do you guys really think the fast charging capabilities and USB 3.0 boost are worthy tools?
> 
> Also is there a way to disable the chasis fans or change its profile within the UEFI?
> 
> Thank you.


All you have to due is go into Services. There are 4 Asus services that run at start up Asus com service/ Asus hm com service/ Asus system control service/Asus fan control service. Change them all to delayed start and you can run the software with no problems. I didn't have to change anything in task scheduler.

Hope that helps because it drove me insane until i figured it out.

BTW I do think the software is worth it. It charges My Htc evo Lte in around 2 hours or less. I also like the fan control of thermal radar.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys!

I'm trying to figure out my OC'ing issues, and in fact I'm at stock clocks atm.

My question is related to the Z77:
I have the corsair vengeance:
http://www.corsair.com/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9.html

I was wondering, in the Z77, are the manual timings of:
9-9-9-24 2N
with
1600MHZ
with
1.5V

OK?
I know that's OK according to asus's compatibility and CORSAIR, but wondering if anyone has the same timings/ram/input on it?
I just want to make sure the RAM is 100% fine.
As I've been getting p95 errors for over 4 weeks now, trying to sort out this OC, I've now given up, and gone to stock clocks, and I'm STILL getting errors.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I'm trying to figure out my OC'ing issues, and in fact I'm at stock clocks atm.
> My question is related to the Z77:
> I have the corsair vengeance:
> http://www.corsair.com/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9.html
> I was wondering, in the Z77, are the manual timings of:
> 9-9-9-24 2N
> with
> 1600MHZ
> with
> 1.5V
> OK?
> I know that's OK according to asus's compatibility and CORSAIR, but wondering if anyone has the same timings/ram/input on it?
> I just want to make sure the RAM is 100% fine.
> As I've been getting p95 errors for over 4 weeks now, trying to sort out this OC, I've now given up, and gone to stock clocks, and I'm STILL getting errors.


Just run your ram in XMP mode it will give you the best stability when overclocking.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> All you have to due is go into Services. There are 4 Asus services that run at start up Asus com service/ Asus hm com service/ Asus system control service/Asus fan control service. Change them all to delayed start and you can run the software with no problems. I didn't have to change anything in task scheduler.
> Hope that helps because it drove me insane until i figured it out.
> BTW I do think the software is worth it. It charges My Htc evo Lte in around 2 hours or less. I also like the fan control of thermal radar.


Thank you a tons. 

+rep

This Works.

I have no idea why Asus allowed such a stupid thing to happen


----------



## Jakusonfire

The new 40mm Noctua fan. I can highly recommend it for the IO fan slot on our boards. I have tried several other 40mm fans of varying quality and speed. This is the best by far. It is marginally slower than the 6000RPM originals but the bigger size and better design more than make up the difference. At full speed the Noctua is barely audible from my case, the originals at full speed put out a harsh buzzing that requires them to be set very low with a user fan profile.
They are expensive for a small fan but I have spent much more then the cost of one of these buying cheap 40mm fans from ebay and other sources and found them no better or often worse than the original fans.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> The new 40mm Noctua fan. I can highly recommend it for the IO fan slot on our boards. I have tried several other 40mm fans of varying quality and speed. This is the best by far. It is marginally slower than the 6000RPM originals but the bigger size and better design more than make up the difference. At full speed the Noctua is barely audible from my case, the originals at full speed put out a harsh buzzing that requires them to be set very low with a user fan profile.
> They are expensive for a small fan but I have spent much more then the cost of one of these buying cheap 40mm fans from ebay and other sources and found them no better or often worse than the original fans.


That's actually something that pisses me off on my system - those asus fans.
Can you link me directly the model you got?

I think I'll place an order for 2.

EDIT:
Excuse my ignorance - found it:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/NOCTUA-Noctua-NF-A4x10-FLX/dp/B009LEJ6RY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351442166&sr=8-1

which other ones have you tried by interest?


----------



## dymmy

do both fit ok, I know the one that slots in out of sight will but does the other that lays flat on the board too ?


----------



## gatornation240

Just got my z77 from the UPS guy, can't wait to get going with this. I was debating between trying to get everything going using Integrated GFX or using my crossfire out of the gate. Any info would be much appreciated.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Just got my z77 from the UPS guy, can't wait to get going with this. I was debating between trying to get everything going using Integrated GFX or using my crossfire out of the gate. Any info would be much appreciated.


Congrats on the Purchase.. Why not use the Crossfire.. Just Do IT...







~~~~


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

Go to control panel/administrative tools/ you will then see Task Scheduler


----------



## Arizonian

Running BIOS 1616 on Windows 8 Pro 64 Bit and reporting all systems a 'GO'.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Running BIOS 1616 on Windows 8 Pro 64 Bit and reporting all systems a 'GO'.


Nice 

I don't get one thing guys.

Since we all have the same motherboard, how come a certain bios have terrible issues with some but so great with others?

Because of the different hardware on the mobo?


----------



## PcG_AmD

Can I join? I got mine a few days ago.

I'm loving it,but I'm having problems with the ram compatibility.

I have to run them @1333mhz otherwise they won't work,I have 4 sticks,all of them are 1600mhz and 2 of them are detected with XMP 1600 with their proper timings and the other 2 are not.
In the SPD info in the bios and cpu-z they are only detected as 1333 9-9-9 1.5v when they are actually 1600 7-9-7 1.65v.

Everytime I set the voltage to 1.65v and the speed to 1600mhz it won't even post.

What can I do?

The rams are Mushkin radioactive.

Thanks.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Running BIOS 1616 on Windows 8 Pro 64 Bit and reporting all systems a 'GO'.










thanks


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Running BIOS 1616 on Windows 8 Pro 64 Bit and reporting all systems a 'GO'.


I jumped on the 1616 bandwagon and with it managed to bring my 3770K up to 4.7 jiggahertz (from 4.5) with my 2400MHz Dominators Platinums.
(H100 push/pull, Liquid Pro and 0.120v offset.). I can boot at 2600MHz but not Prime/OCCT/BF3 stable. I'm thinking IMC can't handle it as I've played around with giving the ram more than 1.65 volts, even up to 1.7 and no go.

P.S. Nice job painting your Trident X fins white. Looks sharp!


----------



## Allez

Newb question: Anyone using this board with G. Skill Ares 1600, 4x4GB sticks? Keep on getting reboots during POST; able to work using 2 sticks in A2 and B2.


----------



## VSMMaxter

hello people, i'm new on these forums but i have always be reading the threads posted here about computer hardwares, softwares, Games etc.

i joined because this is my second time building a pc and i wanna make sure that everything is set up alright before i power this beast on =)

i got a coolermaster CM Storm Scout 2 and an ASUS sabertooth Z77, i've been reading a lot about this motherboard and it looks a little complicated, ive heard of many people having problems with it, it is with bios ram, overclocking problems etc.

i found out that latest bios are 1616 can anyone here help me out on this before i plug it on lol, is it better to flash the bios directly before installing the operating system, its windows 7 professional btw.

also can you guys tell me if i won'nt have any problems with the rest of my specs before i turn on? thanks in advance.
this is the rest of my specs.

ASUS sabertooth z77
intel 3770k processor
SAPPHIRE Vapor-X 100351-6GVXSR Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 6GB
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB)
Rosewill LIGHTNING-1300 1300W [email protected]°C,80 PLUS GOLD Certified.
ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1 Channels PCI Express x1
ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Western Digital WD Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VSMMaxter*
> 
> i found out that latest bios are 1616 can anyone here help me out on this before i plug it on lol, is it better to flash the bios directly before installing the operating system, its windows 7 professional btw.
> also can you guys tell me if i won'nt have any problems with the rest of my specs before i turn on? thanks in advance.


You can Flash it Straight out the Box .. just plug in a Power supply and use the Bios Flashback feature. As for problems.. I have had Absolutely None.. I use 1504 bios... Page 2-43 explains this Flashing Procedure and is what i Prefer.. I am not going to tell you one bios is better than the other either.. Thats up to you and i havent used 1616 so someone else can ring in on that..
Flashing can be done with no Hardware Installed at all.. thats what i mean by straight out of the box..


----------



## VSMMaxter

so i just needed the power supply and just plug in the flash drive and it will automatically get it in? i didnt even need the processor for this? thanks so much man i'll check those pages in on the manual and give this a try, i'm pretty much just organizing my cables in the board, i'll turn this thing on today


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's actually something that pisses me off on my system - those asus fans.
> Can you link me directly the model you got?
> I think I'll place an order for 2.
> EDIT:
> Excuse my ignorance - found it:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/NOCTUA-Noctua-NF-A4x10-FLX/dp/B009LEJ6RY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351442166&sr=8-1
> which other ones have you tried by interest?


The other fans i tried were mainly generic fans from ebay of varying speeds from 3500 - 6000 rpm ... they were all pretty much the same as the original fans.

Be aware that the noctua will only fit on the Assistant fan 1 slot. I wish we could change both of them.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VSMMaxter*
> 
> so i just needed the power supply and just plug in the flash drive and it will automatically get it in? i didnt even need the processor for this? thanks so much man i'll check those pages in on the manual and give this a try, i'm pretty much just organizing my cables in the board, i'll turn this thing on today


Yep.. Downoad the Bios of your choosing ... extract to USB Drive.. Rename the Bios file Z77ST.CAP Follow the Directions in the Manual.. Easy as that... Again.. NO Hardware AT ALL INSTALLED.

I am straight out the box in that pic.. with power supply and USB drive loaded with a BIOS.. thats it









you can also do this method of flashing with ALL hardware installed.. Just POWER down the Comp and leave the PSU ON so the board has power.. I have done BOTH


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> I jumped on the 1616 bandwagon and with it managed to bring my 3770K up to 4.7 jiggahertz (from 4.5) with my 2400MHz Dominators Platinums.
> (H100 push/pull, Liquid Pro and 0.120v offset.). I can boot at 2600MHz but not Prime/OCCT/BF3 stable. I'm thinking IMC can't handle it as I've played around with giving the ram more than 1.65 volts, even up to 1.7 and no go.
> P.S. Nice job painting your Trident X fins white. Looks sharp!


How much RAM have you got?


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You can Flash it Straight out the Box .. just plug in a Power supply and use the Bios Flashback feature. As for problems.. I have had Absolutely None.. I use 1504 bios... Page 2-43 explains this Flashing Procedure and is what i Prefer.. I am not going to tell you one bios is better than the other either.. Thats up to you and i havent used 1616 so someone else can ring in on that..
> Flashing can be done with no Hardware Installed at all.. thats what i mean by straight out of the box..


btw its bad to put your motherboard ontop of your anti-static bag and power it on..


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> btw its bad to put your motherboard ontop of your anti-static bag and power it on..


I have run a lot of boards like this and never once had any electrical shorts from it..


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I have run a lot of boards like this and never once had any electrical shorts from it..


Still taking the risk


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> Still taking the risk


The Conductive Properties of these Metallised film bags are very Small... I see your point but again .. never had a problem with it..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The other fans i tried were mainly generic fans from ebay of varying speeds from 3500 - 6000 rpm ... they were all pretty much the same as the original fans.
> Be aware that the noctua will only fit on the Assistant fan 1 slot. I wish we could change both of them.


Ah dang it.
Which slot does it fit into then?
The one facing you, or the one at the "back" of the board?

Sorry the AS1 doesn't mean much to me lol

On a side note:
Flashed 1616 BIOS just now - did it via AI Suite II, (installed it just now, with only the flashback option lol)
Seems nice - works on W7 64bit - and I saw more USB options in the BIOS - as in disabling USB slots etc.

Only difference I saw in the bios.


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> How much RAM have you got?


16 Gigs.

http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-65v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a2400c9.html


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> 16 Gigs.
> http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-65v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a2400c9.html


Some sexy ram - I wish I went for 8GB dominator over the 16GB vengeance now. (Contemplated it for many hours, when i chose my build)


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Some sexy ram - I wish I went for 8GB dominator over the 16GB vengeance now. (Contemplated it for many hours, when i chose my build)


Quite the story with my current build and this particular RAM.
Bought the Sabertooth and 3770K in April/May as soon as they were released and waited and waited till about June without a gaming PC to preorder it and then literally 2 months later did they ship here in Canada.

I know UK had them kits a month earlier and I contemplated having them shipped over the pond but with $100 surcharge ontop of the $309CDN once you do the Pound to Canadian Dollar conversion.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Quite the story with my current build and this particular RAM.
> Bought the Sabertooth and 3770K in April/May as soon as they were released and waited and waited till about June without a gaming PC to preorder it and then literally 2 months later did they ship here in Canada.
> I know UK had them kits a month earlier and I contemplated having them shipped over the pond but with $100 surcharge ontop of the $309CDN once you do the Pound to Canadian Dollar conversion.


Ah for me it wasn't a supply type of thing - just a change of heart for more GB's.
Now it seems that one my vengeances is a failure lol.

I actually had 8GB, 2x 4GB module of dominator ordered, then called to change my order....wish I hadn't now, knowing the problems I've been through in this last month - only to realise its (most probably) faulty ram...

Used to be IMPOSSIBLE to run 4.5ghz - and now I'm running it without any problems...


----------



## volegradele

Hello guys, I just made a new configuration and joined the forumu.I am from Croatia,and I'm sorry for my bad English!
Had some problems with P67 Sabertooth( 2 bords) then decided to to buy a Z77,and I'm loving it!


----------



## Fesarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> 16 Gigs.
> http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/dominator-platinum-ddr3-memory/dominator-platinum-with-corsair-link-connector-1-65v-16-gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmd16gx3m4a2400c9.html


And the sabertooth supports all 16GB of it at 2400mhz?


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fesarius*
> 
> And the sabertooth supports all 16GB of it at 2400mhz?


Absolutely. Put it in XMP mode and just had to tweak higher VCCSA voltage.


----------



## MediocrePwnage

Just wanted to say that Asus released an update today for Thermal Radar. I decided to reinstall Ai Suite II and apply the update. Well, I can say that the startup problems from before are no longer present for me.


----------



## Rebral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MediocrePwnage*
> 
> Just wanted to say that Asus released an update today for Thermal Radar. I decided to reinstall Ai Suite II and apply the update. Well, I can say that the startup problems from before are no longer present for me.


Awesome!
I'll check that out when I get out of class.


----------



## Lolindirfab

Guys, how are you?

Look. I have a really weird problem.

I recently installed Windows 8 Pro x64.

My computer freezes every time I go to Device manager, and manually check for a hardware change. The same happens, for example, when I'm trying to install the latest LAN drivers for Windows 8 x64 from the Asus Support site. It just dies. Happened also with another Asus drivers, all of them, the latest.

I've tried absolutely everything, format, 4 times. Nothing installed. It keeps doing it.

I have no overclock at all right now. Latest bios, XMP mode, 1600mhz my ram.

I have a 3770k + 16gb corsair vengeance low profile + 560ti.
850w PSU + Raid0.

The only thing that installs by itself is the last Nvidia driver.

This **** is making me crazy, I really don't know what else to try. The only device connected to my pc right now is my mouse + keyboard + monitor.

Does anyone went through something like this?

I already called MS, they have no clue about it. Windows 7 runs great.

Thanks. Sigh...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> Hello guys, I just made a new configuration and joined the forumu.I am from Croatia,and I'm sorry for my bad English!
> Had some problems with P67 Sabertooth( 2 bords) then decided to to buy a Z77,and I'm loving it!


Welcome...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MediocrePwnage*
> 
> Just wanted to say that Asus released an update today for Thermal Radar. I decided to reinstall Ai Suite II and apply the update. Well, I can say that the startup problems from before are no longer present for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebral*
> 
> Awesome!
> I'll check that out when I get out of class.


How is it updated out of interest?
They updated AI Suite2?

Asus fan controller always failed on me, as a service.

EDIT:
Yup - I updated it, and thermal radar now works.
Temp readings are still completely off.

BTW:
Do people find that the 2 assist fans do much?
How much cooler does your system run with them ON vs them OFF?
I'm tempted to leave the fans both OFF, as they are so whinny and annoying, but don't want to sacrifice temps for that.

EDIT:
Been checking (ignore the motherboard level):

Both pics are with prime running - the AFTER pic is with the fans OFF, after an additional 4hrs of prime

BEFORE (with fans on):



AFTER (fans have been off for 4hrs now):



I honestly don't see the point of using those mini fans....am I missing something?


----------



## KingKwentyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Guys, how are you?
> Look. I have a really weird problem.
> I recently installed Windows 8 Pro x64.
> My computer freezes every time I go to Device manager, and manually check for a hardware change. The same happens, for example, when I'm trying to install the latest LAN drivers for Windows 8 x64 from the Asus Support site. It just dies. Happened also with another Asus drivers, all of them, the latest.
> I've tried absolutely everything, format, 4 times. Nothing installed. It keeps doing it.
> I have no overclock at all right now. Latest bios, XMP mode, 1600mhz my ram.
> I have a 3770k + 16gb corsair vengeance low profile + 560ti.
> 850w PSU + Raid0.
> The only thing that installs by itself is the last Nvidia driver.
> This **** is making me crazy, I really don't know what else to try. The only device connected to my pc right now is my mouse + keyboard + monitor.
> Does anyone went through something like this?
> I already called MS, they have no clue about it. Windows 7 runs great.
> Thanks. Sigh...


Your set up is similar to mine with the exception of the brand of ram [ i have 12gb from patriot]. Win8 should have all the drivers you need by the time you boot into windows on first install. The only driver i changed was the gpu. [560ti evga 448 core classi 1st edition]. I went to the beta driver for the gpu. I decided not to install any of Asus software for fear of it being unstable. I have been testing win8 for 2 or 3 days with no problems except for a crash of NFS most wanted. If your copy of windows does not install drivers for all your hardware automatically then you may have another issue. PS:*shh shh* Did you download your WIN8 or is it legit?*shhh shhh


----------



## gatornation240

Yeah copy of windows can def be a factor, had problems with a d/l version once. I left the two smaller fans out of my mobo had a feeling they would get annoying, already have 3 40mm in this build. Gonna post up my links after work but I got her working and passed all stress tests, runs much cooler then my AMD saber (go figure) and was much smoother of a journey, no hickups, no errors; I was troubleshooting the AMD build for almost a month before I could get all drivers/hardware/software to cooperate and thats with all AMD/ATI/ASUS parts. My 3570K @ stock clock got a much better score in heaven bench then my fx4100 @ 4.6
775 was my last Intel and it's good to be back








srry for crappy iphone pic


----------



## Totally Dubbed

bye bye mini-asus fans.
Got rid of both of them, unscrewed them out of the motherboard lol.
That whinny noise is still in my head though. haha


----------



## iARDAs

For those of you complaining about the small turbo fans,

What I did is I set both of those assist fans to FAN-OFF via the Asus Suite 2 program

What it does is it actually turns off the fan below 40 degrees. Since in idle, the temperature is lower than 40, it always stays turned off.

But when the temperature gets over 40 the fans start to kick in. This happens when I am in a game, and while in a game I don't notice the turbo fan sound because the game itself mainly.

Give it a try if you guys would like to.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> For those of you complaining about the small turbo fans,
> 
> What I did is I set both of those assist fans to FAN-OFF via the Asus Suite 2 program
> 
> What it does is it actually turns off the fan below 40 degrees. Since in idle, the temperature is lower than 40, it always stays turned off.
> 
> But when the temperature gets over 40 the fans start to kick in. This happens when I am in a game, and while in a game I don't notice the turbo fan sound because the game itself mainly.
> 
> Give it a try if you guys would like to.


yup noticed this too - they kicked in at full load running p95, or else were off.
Didn't like-em.
Didn't really do much with temps either...5c max difference.


----------



## Lolindirfab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKwentyne*
> 
> Your set up is similar to mine with the exception of the brand of ram [ i have 12gb from patriot]. Win8 should have all the drivers you need by the time you boot into windows on first install. The only driver i changed was the gpu. [560ti evga 448 core classi 1st edition]. I went to the beta driver for the gpu. I decided not to install any of Asus software for fear of it being unstable. I have been testing win8 for 2 or 3 days with no problems except for a crash of NFS most wanted. If your copy of windows does not install drivers for all your hardware automatically then you may have another issue. PS:*shh shh* Did you download your WIN8 or is it legit?*shhh shhh


Hahaha Yes, it is a legit version









Well, what I did:

Format, rebuild the Raid 0 from zero, format again, fresh install.

Everything is working great now.

Thanks guys ♥


----------



## Rayleyne

So for a while now i've been enjoying 5.4ghz 3770k on my sabertooth z77, I was thinking of going trifire but that meant a differant board and i ended up staying, HAs anyone ever tried using an OCZ revo drive in the last PCIE x16 slot (X4 electrical)

And whats the highest rated speed for ram that anyones got to work on here, Thinking of a side grade to last me until haswell and the Haswell sabertooth boards.

PS my Assist fans (The little ones with the armor) have always been set at default, I never hear them unless i'm doing something stupid like running linx for hours straight.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Yeah copy of windows can def be a factor, had problems with a d/l version once. I left the two smaller fans out of my mobo had a feeling they would get annoying, already have 3 40mm in this build. Gonna post up my links after work but I got her working and passed all stress tests, runs much cooler then my AMD saber (go figure) and was much smoother of a journey, no hickups, no errors; I was troubleshooting the AMD build for almost a month before I could get all drivers/hardware/software to cooperate and thats with all AMD/ATI/ASUS parts. My 3570K @ stock clock got a much better score in heaven bench then my fx4100 @ 4.6
> 775 was my last Intel and it's good to be back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> srry for crappy iphone pic


I dont think its the Quality of the Pic you should be sorry for..







~~~


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I dont think its the Quality of the Pic you should be sorry for..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~~~


hahahaha


----------



## gatornation240

That case can be a handleful to work with, but I love it cause of the number of fans I can fit in it (12x120mm). And yes my exhaust is an intake, cause I've got 2 fans in Pull atop the radiator as exhaust.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> That case can be a handleful to work with, but I love it cause of the number of fans I can fit in it (12x120mm). And yes my exhaust is an intake, cause I've got 2 fans in Pull atop the radiator as exhaust.


Just foolin with ya.. No harm Intended


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just foolin with ya.. No harm Intended


None taken, use to getting trolled


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> None taken


Just need a touch of Cable Management and that would cleanup nice..


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Just need a touch of Cable Management and that would cleanup nice..


Yeah no cable cutouts on the tray so hiding cables can be a pain; gonna upgrade to something I can wire tuck, just need a case that can house 6 intake fans on one side or maybe consider modding it down the road. Just need a dremel bit that can cut through the tray...


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VSMMaxter*
> 
> hello people, i'm new on these forums but i have always be reading the threads posted here about computer hardwares, softwares, Games etc.
> i joined because this is my second time building a pc and i wanna make sure that everything is set up alright before i power this beast on =)
> i got a coolermaster CM Storm Scout 2 and an ASUS sabertooth Z77, i've been reading a lot about this motherboard and it looks a little complicated, ive heard of many people having problems with it, it is with bios ram, overclocking problems etc.
> i found out that latest bios are 1616 can anyone here help me out on this before i plug it on lol, is it better to flash the bios directly before installing the operating system, its windows 7 professional btw.
> also can you guys tell me if i won'nt have any problems with the rest of my specs before i turn on? thanks in advance.
> this is the rest of my specs.
> ASUS sabertooth z77
> intel 3770k processor
> SAPPHIRE Vapor-X 100351-6GVXSR Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 6GB
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB)
> Rosewill LIGHTNING-1300 1300W [email protected]°C,80 PLUS GOLD Certified.
> ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1 Channels PCI Express x1
> ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
> Western Digital WD Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"


Honestly I think this would fit together just fine, go for it 







. If there is anything wrong with this setup, you'll find out soon enough







(if you need help/instructions in terms of installing specific components, feel free to ask).

I'd really like to see some pics of that graphics card! That thing must be the craziest 7970 out there, really cool!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> How is it updated out of interest?
> They updated AI Suite2?
> Asus fan controller always failed on me, as a service.
> EDIT:
> Yup - I updated it, and thermal radar now works.
> Temp readings are still completely off.
> BTW:
> Do people find that the 2 assist fans do much?
> How much cooler does your system run with them ON vs them OFF?
> I'm tempted to leave the fans both OFF, as they are so whinny and annoying, but don't want to sacrifice temps for that.
> EDIT:
> Been checking (ignore the motherboard level):
> Both pics are with prime running - the AFTER pic is with the fans OFF, after an additional 4hrs of prime
> BEFORE (with fans on):
> 
> AFTER (fans have been off for 4hrs now):
> 
> I honestly don't see the point of using those mini fans....am I missing something?


Assist fans off for 10mins





Turn the fans back on with the CPU still loaded





The differences aren't massive but they do get bigger as you move in to really high clocks. Especially with watercooling where there is very little airflow around the VRM's because of a lack of a CPU fan.

I wouldn't want to completely remove them without a downward firing CPU fan or removing the thermal armour altogether. I just use a much lower fan user profile for when the system is cool and they only really kick in when things heat up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Assist fans off for 10mins
> 
> The differences aren't massive but they do get bigger as you move in to really high clocks. Especially with watercooling where there is very little airflow around the VRM's because of a lack of a CPU fan.
> I wouldn't want to completely remove them without a downward firing CPU fan or removing the thermal armour altogether. I just use a much lower fan user profile for when the system is cool and they only really kick in when things heat up.


thanks for confirming the temps!
+rep

I've gotten them out really - seeing as my pc doesn't run on p95 24/7 any more, and 4.5ghz isn't really "hot" for my pc, even after gaming, I'm quite happy not hearing whinny noises any more







!
Was still curious about other people's temps and their results - you just confirmed the temp difference that I had







!


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> That case can be a handleful to work with, but I love it cause of the number of fans I can fit in it (12x120mm). And yes my exhaust is an intake, cause I've got 2 fans in Pull atop the radiator as exhaust.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I dont think its the Quality of the Pic you should be sorry for..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~~~


Waahahaha...







This reminds me of the first time I lifted my old 1989 Toyota 4Runner 4 inches. I love the lift because I could bolt on 33" mud terrain tires and bigger if I wanted. I loved that truck to death.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lolindirfab*
> 
> Guys, how are you?
> Look. I have a really weird problem.
> I recently installed Windows 8 Pro x64.
> My computer freezes every time I go to Device manager, and manually check for a hardware change. The same happens, for example, when I'm trying to install the latest LAN drivers for Windows 8 x64 from the Asus Support site. It just dies. Happened also with another Asus drivers, all of them, the latest.
> I've tried absolutely everything, format, 4 times. Nothing installed. It keeps doing it.
> I have no overclock at all right now. Latest bios, XMP mode, 1600mhz my ram.
> I have a 3770k + 16gb corsair vengeance low profile + 560ti.
> 850w PSU + Raid0.
> The only thing that installs by itself is the last Nvidia driver.
> This **** is making me crazy, I really don't know what else to try. The only device connected to my pc right now is my mouse + keyboard + monitor.
> Does anyone went through something like this?
> I already called MS, they have no clue about it. Windows 7 runs great.
> Thanks. Sigh...


Did figure it out? When I did my install (Win8 Pro) over the weekend I uninstalled AI Suite II prior and I used all the drivers from the CD that came w/the mobo. I even installed AI Suite that came with the disk. I was also running bios v 1504 prior to the install. Give that a try then update the drivers, etc. after the Win8 install and report back.

EDIT: Never mind saw it on [313]


----------



## flv1333

Hey all,

I'm having a bit of trouble with my board. I have have currently 6 drives in my system and am looking to adding one more, but when I add it it does not show up. Have have tested the drive by replacing it with another on the board that I know is functional and it does get seen.

It seems like I cant add any more drives past the 6 mark.... do any of you know what it might be?

Ohh and I'm running in AHCI mode

Cheers!


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> Hey all,
> I'm having a bit of trouble with my board. I have have currently 6 drives in my system and am looking to adding one more, but when I add it it does not show up. Have have tested the drive by replacing it with another on the board that I know is functional and it does get seen.
> It seems like I cant add any more drives past the 6 mark.... do any of you know what it might be?
> Ohh and I'm running in AHCI mode
> Cheers!


A bit more info? What drives are you using, and what ports? Only thing I could think of as far as obvious explanation would be faulty cable or that the ports are not all set to ahci... but you clearly stated that neither of those is the problem.

Edit: I suppose we just need to know which drive is not posting. Make and model? And what port are you trying to plug it to?


----------



## Tisca

*Q about the 40mm fans*

Can I install the fans but keep them from running if I want to (software disabled)?
I'm assembling this very moment and wondering if the fans can be too noisy for my liking. I have to decide on the fans before I install the huge cooler. Is there any reason not to install the fans? They made it an option after all.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> *Q about the 40mm fans*
> Can I install the fans but keep them from running if I want to (software disabled)?
> I'm assembling this very moment and wondering if the fans can be too noisy for my liking. I have to decide on the fans before I install the huge cooler. Is there any reason not to install the fans? They made it an option after all.


Sort off

When you set it to FAN OFF via Asus Suite 2, the fans dont work until a certain temperature like when the computer is idle.

It would only start to work when you are gaming because of higher temperature.


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> A bit more info? What drives are you using, and what ports? Only thing I could think of as far as obvious explanation would be faulty cable or that the ports are not all set to ahci... but you clearly stated that neither of those is the problem.
> Edit: I suppose we just need to know which drive is not posting. Make and model? And what port are you trying to plug it to?


Hi Likethegun

Im using a whole slew of different HDDs ranging from 500GB to 1.5TB, the specific model is a Hitachi 1Tb, not quite sure of the correct model number as I'm currently at work, but it is seen if I remove one of the other drives so its not a compatibility issue.

Also for Ports I have my SDD on p1 and the rest lined up after: IE start with the white/gray SATA ports and worked my way up towards the 24pin Power. so the only ones left open are the Brown ones (Im running a 3570K)


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> *Q about the 40mm fans*
> Can I install the fans but keep them from running if I want to (software disabled)?
> I'm assembling this very moment and wondering if the fans can be too noisy for my liking. I have to decide on the fans before I install the huge cooler. Is there any reason not to install the fans? They made it an option after all.


Depending on your overall components, the fans may or may not be noticeable. I keep my rig on the ground and run 6 case fans on top of my h100 cooler, so those 40mm I can't even hear... As far as disabling, just go into bios and in advanced mode toward the bottom you should see the option for "asst 1/2 fan" controls or something to that effect. The 40mm fans your referring to run on the asst 1 and asst 2, and if you have them connected, can't be fully disabled to my knowledge. However, you have a couple options to minimize noise.

First, if you enable the Q-fan control, you can then either set them to "silent" or "fan-off." Silent basically auto adjusts to run at lowest speeds depending on temps, and "fan-off" completely turns them off when mobo is idle or decreased past a certain temp.

If you disable the q-fan control (out of box this is disabled), and your asst1/2 profile is set to manual, then you can adjust the upper temps to a higher setting so that it takes a hotter temp to cause them to run at max speeds.

Also, by setting the lower temps at a higher degree, then it will cause the fans to run at minimum speeds at a higher threshhold.

From here, just mess with your min/max duty cycles (i think min is 60%) to get the slowest speeds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> Hi Likethegun
> Im using a whole slew of different HDDs ranging from 500GB to 1.5TB, the specific model is a Hitachi 1Tb, not quite sure of the correct model number as I'm currently at work, but it is seen if I remove one of the other drives so its not a compatibility issue.
> Also for Ports I have my SDD on p1 and the rest lined up after: IE start with the white/gray SATA ports and worked my way up towards the 24pin Power. so the only ones left open are the Brown ones (Im running a 3570K)


I misread your first post. So just to confirm, when you unplug one of the pre-existing OTHER drives, leaving the new one plugged into the 6g brown port, then the new drive shows up?


----------



## flv1333

yes that is correct


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> yes that is correct


This is kind of stumping me. I am not aware of the board only supporting 6 drives... and if the drive posts when you unplug one of the others, then it obviously isnt a compatibility issue as you said. I was thinking originally that it may have been an old drive and the 6g port didn't support atapi or something. Will continue to try and do research. Keep us posted if you figure it out before someone else can provide an answer!

Oh, I don't even know if this question holds any merit, but how are the drives showing up? As in, they are both obviously fomatted, so the old drive is showing up as what letter? And when you unplug it from the original port (assuming a non brown) and plug the new drive into the brown port and it shows up, what letter does it show up as? Hard to verbalize... I guess i'm asking if your ocmputer is trying to recognize it as the same drive?

Lastly, how is the power setup? When you try to have all 7 plugged in, how are they connected to power? Also, when you unplug the old one, and the new one works, is the power setup the same as when they are all plugged in?


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Sort off
> 
> When you set it to FAN OFF via Asus Suite 2, the fans dont work until a certain temperature like when the computer is idle.
> 
> It would only start to work when you are gaming because of higher temperature.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Depending on your overall components, the fans may or may not be noticeable. I keep my rig on the ground and run 6 case fans on top of my h100 cooler, so those 40mm I can't even hear... As far as disabling, just go into bios and in advanced mode toward the bottom you should see the option for "asst 1/2 fan" controls or something to that effect. The 40mm fans your referring to run on the asst 1 and asst 2, and if you have them connected, can't be fully disabled to my knowledge. However, you have a couple options to minimize noise.
> First, if you enable the Q-fan control, you can then either set them to "silent" or "fan-off." Silent basically auto adjusts to run at lowest speeds depending on temps, and "fan-off" completely turns them off when mobo is idle or decreased past a certain temp.
> If you disable the q-fan control (out of box this is disabled), and your asst1/2 profile is set to manual, then you can adjust the upper temps to a higher setting so that it takes a hotter temp to cause them to run at max speeds.
> Also, by setting the lower temps at a higher degree, then it will cause the fans to run at minimum speeds at a higher threshhold.
> From here, just mess with your min/max duty cycles (i think min is 60%) to get the slowest speeds.


Thx! I'm throwing them in and hope for the best. I can always unplug if I don't end up liking them and too lazy to disassemble. No harm done.

EDIT: Just realized the bundled fans are 35mm and not 40mm. There's a mention of 40mm in the manual and a cover lid piece for if you choose a 40mm fan. So aftermarket 40mm if you like.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Thx! I'm throwing them in and hope for the best. I can always unplug if I don't end up liking them and too lazy to disassemble. No harm done.
> EDIT: Just realized the bundled fans are 35mm and not 40mm. There's a mention of 40mm in the manual and a cover lid piece for if you choose a 40mm fan. So aftermarket 40mm if you like.


Yeah, for the question sake I knew what you was talking about lol. Someone actually mentioned they had the noctua 40mm. I want to try those out so bad. Naturally, bigger=quieter in terms of a quailty fan so you don't get that annoying buzz sound. Obviously with the mini-fans they are still going to be noisy... but noctua = QUALITY, I got the noctua 140mm fans and they are absolutely the best fans I have ever used. Only thing is trying to bring myself to spent 15$ each on 40mm lol


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Yeah, for the question sake I knew what you was talking about lol. Someone actually mentioned they had the noctua 40mm. I want to try those out so bad. Naturally, bigger=quieter in terms of a quailty fan so you don't get that annoying buzz sound. Obviously with the mini-fans they are still going to be noisy... but noctua = QUALITY, I got the noctua 140mm fans and they are absolutely the best fans I have ever used. Only thing is trying to bring myself to spent 15$ each on 40mm lol


Yeah, $15 is pretty steep for a 40mm. Do you really need those small fans? I'm getting mixed reviews. Would it defeat the purpose of the "thermal armor" to not have those fans?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> Yeah, $15 is pretty steep for a 40mm. Do you really need those small fans? I'm getting mixed reviews. Would it defeat the purpose of the "thermal armor" to not have those fans?


Again, kind of depends on your setup and what your going to be doing with your rig. Because of the armor, it obviously doesn't have the greatest airflow underneath without the fans. However, if your not going to be doing any serious business and your system isn't putting out a lot of heat... then I don't think they are needed. Really though, even if you didn't use them and ARE running heavy loads, I don't think it will effect anything too much to not have them so long as you have good cooling otherwise. The claim is that it helps the lifespan, but I really don't see how it would really matter too much either way...


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> This is kind of stumping me. I am not aware of the board only supporting 6 drives... and if the drive posts when you unplug one of the others, then it obviously isnt a compatibility issue as you said. I was thinking originally that it may have been an old drive and the 6g port didn't support atapi or something. Will continue to try and do research. Keep us posted if you figure it out before someone else can provide an answer!
> Oh, I don't even know if this question holds any merit, but how are the drives showing up? As in, they are both obviously fomatted, so the old drive is showing up as what letter? And when you unplug it from the original port (assuming a non brown) and plug the new drive into the brown port and it shows up, what letter does it show up as? Hard to verbalize... I guess i'm asking if your ocmputer is trying to recognize it as the same drive?
> Lastly, how is the power setup? When you try to have all 7 plugged in, how are they connected to power? Also, when you unplug the old one, and the new one works, is the power setup the same as when they are all plugged in?


Well the drive has data on it and windows just assigns a drive letter ( In my case "J") and it remains assigned to this, windows aside the BIOS is not seeing it... once the BIOS sees it I would have no problem manually assigning a different letter, but it seems like its limited to only 6... I need to get a DVD drive to see if that gets recognized by the BIOS.

The power setup stays the same, the only thing that gets removed is the SATA cable, to be sure I even tried another lead.

In anyway today is Friday and I'm not feeling like going out so i'll spend some time in the Man-cave to troubleshoot. I'll keep you posted! Thanks for you help!


----------



## gatornation240

I placed a 120mm here:








Sits in between the rad hose/pump and sits against the H100 pump laying atop my 7700. I put a strip of the antistatic bag from the saber in between the fan and the pcb of the 7770 just in case. While running OCCT/IDLE I saw a 8*/12*C difference in Vcore temps compared to no fans (120 or 40s) keeps the cpu a lil cooler as well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> I placed a 120mm here:
> 
> while running OCCT and IDLE I saw a 8*-12*C difference in Vcore temps compared to no fans (120 or 40s)


yup that's where one goes - I saw a 5c difference, and I gave P95 4hrs of gap to monitor the difference - in other words - had p95 running for over 10hrs with them on.
Then got them out, and ran it for another 4hrs of p95 - screenshot'ed both, and saw only 5c change.
Not worth it, as that for me, means nothing vs the noise they output.


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yup that's where one goes - I saw a 5c difference, and I gave P95 4hrs of gap to monitor the difference - in other words - had p95 running for over 10hrs with them on.
> Then got them out, and ran it for another 4hrs of p95 - screenshot'ed both, and saw only 5c change.
> Not worth it, as that for me, means nothing vs the noise they output.










you tested far longer then I did







when running without the fans did you leave the slots open or cover the armor back up? I left mine open to allow some airflow


----------



## Zero989

Just got this board a few days ago. BIOS 1616 sucks lol. I have the same issue as mentioned earlier, the computer auto boots into the BIOS no matter what settings are used (including CMOS clear/optimized settings).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you tested far longer then I did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when running without the fans did you leave the slots open or cover the armor back up? I left mine open to allow some airflow


I've got mine closed bro, but when I tested, the fans were still in there, but not running








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero989*
> 
> Just got this board a few days ago. BIOS 1616 sucks lol. I have the same issue as mentioned earlier, the computer auto boots into the BIOS no matter what settings are used (including CMOS clear/optimized settings).


Hmm no such problems here bro - that's odd for it to boot to bios, unless its a OC change?


----------



## Zero989

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seyumi*
> 
> Um, I wouldn't install the newest bios if I were you guys. Every time I restart my computer it now boots into BIOS every time and I have to manually select my boot drive for windows to load. Does anyone know how to bypass this in the bios options? I went through every menu and I didn't see anything....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I am having the exact same problem .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hmm no such problems here bro - that's odd for it to boot to bios, unless its a OC change?


If I move my keyboards USB connectors (uses 2) to another position on the motherboard it allows me to boot once without going into the BIOS. After that it's back to auto-BIOS. I've even tried moving it to the USB 3.0 slots, same thing.

It came with BIOS 1304 and everything was great until it started booting so fast I could never reach the BIOS, LOL.









This is all with WIndows 8 Pro 64-bit, a genuine copy.

Time to try the 1504 BIOS.


----------



## Arizonian

Might anyone know what to do about a device not showing working properly in manager?

Standard SATA AHCI Controller has problems in Device Manager. The other two Controllers are working properly with the drivers.

This device cannot use any resoruces because it is not working properly.

This device cannot start. (Code 10)

An I/O adapter hardware error has occurred.

Driver Version: 6.2.9200.16384

Device PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E02&SUBSYS_84CA1043&REV_04\3&11583659&0&FA was configured.

Driver Name: mshdc.inf

I did an uninstall and it re-installed. It found my mouse when it re-installed with same error (Code 10). I do have the proper driver software for the mouse I own. I've tried searching for the driver in the Sabertooth CD and it locks up system. When I search online it responds I have the most current driver. I even switched USB ports and same response.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zero989*
> 
> If I move my keyboards USB connectors (uses 2) to another position on the motherboard it allows me to boot once without going into the BIOS. After that it's back to auto-BIOS. I've even tried moving it to the USB 3.0 slots, same thing.
> It came with BIOS 1304 and everything was great until it started booting so fast I could never reach the BIOS, LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is all with WIndows 8 Pro 64-bit, a genuine copy.
> Time to try the 1504 BIOS.


Maybe the bios is having problem with win8?
Someone here reported 1616 to work like a treat with win8.

I would look into your OPC profiles (if any) and try putting it to stock - maybe that's why it boots into bios (as it really shouldn't be doing that)
ie. try optimised defaults.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Might anyone know what to do about a device not showing working properly in manager?
> Standard SATA AHCI Controller has problems in Device Manager. The other two Controllers are working properly with the drivers.
> 
> This device cannot use any resoruces because it is not working properly.
> This device cannot start. (Code 10)
> An I/O adapter hardware error has occurred.
> Driver Version: 6.2.9200.16384
> Device PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_1E02&SUBSYS_84CA1043&REV_04\3&11583659&0&FA was configured.
> Driver Name: mshdc.inf
> 
> I did an uninstall and it re-installed. It found my mouse when it re-installed with same error (Code 10). I do have the proper driver software for the mouse I own. I've tried searching for the driver in the Sabertooth CD and it locks up system. When I search online it responds I have the most current driver. I even switched USB ports and same response.


That is the SATA driver - have you got anything connected via sata?
Might be worth trying to have it unplugged, if that makes sense, then updating, then going into the bios, enabling/disabling it, and then trying again.
Does event viewer give you the same errors - if so, have you tried googling those errors?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That is the SATA driver - have you got anything connected via sata?
> Might be worth trying to have it unplugged, if that makes sense, then updating, then going into the bios, enabling/disabling it, and then trying again.
> Does event viewer give you the same errors - if so, have you tried googling those errors?


Next step would be to go into registry which looked pretty detailed. The only two SATA devices connected are ASUS Blu-Ray RW & HDD. Hmmmmm......thanks for the food for thought.

If I tackle this then I can finally say I'm running Windows 8......lol. Didn't think it would be a mother board issue just trying to rule it out.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Next step would be to go into registry which looked pretty detailed. The only two SATA devices connected are ASUS Blu-Ray RW & HDD. Hmmmmm......thanks for the food for thought.
> If I tackle this then I can finally say I'm running Windows 8......lol. Didn't think it would be a mother board issue just trying to rule it out.


Not a motherboard issue?
Oh my friend, you have much to learn about Asus and their lack of software integration and support lool









No but in all seriousness, try unplugging them, and see if the error still shows up. And of course if this error keeps coming up, event viewer, or the equivalent on win 8 should give you a more detailed explanation.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Not a motherboard issue?
> Oh my friend, you have much to learn about Asus and their lack of software integration and support lool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No but in all seriousness, try unplugging them, and see if the error still shows up. And of course if this error keeps coming up, event viewer, or the equivalent on win 8 should give you a more detailed explanation.


Bingo! It's not ASUS software but my connecting the SATA cables to the ASMedia Serial ATA 6GB's connector #9 and not the Intel Z77 Serial ATA 6GB's connector #7. As soon as I switched them all is good. Running Windows 8 finally back up to full system and 100% problem free.

+1 rep for pointing me in the right direction.









Edited to add: Windows 7 didn't seem to have a problem with it but Windows 8 did not like it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Bingo! It's not ASUS software but my connecting the SATA cables to the ASMedia Serial ATA 6GB's connector #9 and not the Intel Z77 Serial ATA 6GB's connector #7. As soon as I switched them all is good. Running Windows 8 finally back up to full system and 100% problem free.
> +1 rep for pointing me in the right direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edited to add: Windows 7 didn't seem to have a problem with it but Windows 8 did not like it.


Yeah I was going to say, mine is connected to it - and I have no problems with my SATA connections
I think that might mean the ASMedia one is not Win8 compatible yet!

And pleasure


----------



## dymmy

goto Gskill forum http://gskill.us/forum and look up 'Tradesman' he sorted out my ram troubles. XMP mode volts up slightly etc etc all work now. Also remember to properly shut down power lead out wait and reboot. What seems like an error sometimes isnt.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allez*
> 
> Newb question: Anyone using this board with G. Skill Ares 1600, 4x4GB sticks? Keep on getting reboots during POST; able to work using 2 sticks in A2 and B2.


try this Gskill forum their is a dude called Tradesman who sorts out any Gskill issue. He helped me loads.
http://gskill.us/forum


----------



## Allez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dymmy*
> 
> try this Gskill forum their is a dude called Tradesman who sorts out any Gskill issue. He helped me loads.
> http://gskill.us/forum


thanks - I'll take a look.


----------



## Hanoverfist

@ dymmy. Try to edit one post .. to avoid Triple or Double posting.. Thanks..


----------



## MadHocus

Just want to give a big shout of thanks to everyone who helped get me up and running on this board. Didn't have to many questions, but when I asked you answered, and for that me and my rig are very thankful. Now to decide on an OS?????? Just got offered windows 8 64bit for £60 unwrapped hmnnnnn any thoughts?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Just want to give a big shout of thanks to everyone who helped get me up and running on this board. Didn't have to many questions, but when I asked you answered, and for that me and my rig are very thankful. Now to decide on an OS?????? Just got offered windows 8 64bit for £60 unwrapped hmnnnnn any thoughts?


I can get Win8 for £25 - official as an upgrade via Windows.
But I'm not too keen to jump the bandwagon just now.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Just want to give a big shout of thanks to everyone who helped get me up and running on this board. Didn't have to many questions, but when I asked you answered, and for that me and my rig are very thankful. Now to decide on an OS?????? Just got offered windows 8 64bit for £60 unwrapped hmnnnnn any thoughts?


Why not.. Grab win8..


----------



## MadHocus

Think I will do hangoverfist, looked at Ubuntu, Hackintosh, & although I like Win 7 I might as well get up to date. My last days of Vista on this sorry dell 3100 are coming to an end Totally Dubbed I thought about upgrading but Im on the 32 bit & with my new toy I need to move into the 64bit range. The count down has begun.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHocus*
> 
> Think I will do hangoverfist, looked at Ubuntu, Hackintosh, & although I like Win 7 I might as well get up to date. My last days of Vista on this sorry dell 3100 are coming to an end Totally Dubbed I thought about upgrading but Im on the 32 bit & with my new toy I need to move into the 64bit range. The count down has begun.


Hangoverfist!!!







Lol


----------



## [email protected]

I am planning on a new build and it will be this motherboard. I just cannot decide what processor to get. Torn on my decisions. Not sure if i want a "budget" system or a expensive one cuz it'd be worth it.

Any suggestions what processor is good?

Ivy or Sandy?

Considering getting Windows 8 full retail too.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I am planning on a new build and it will be this motherboard. I just cannot decide what processor to get. Torn on my decisions. Not sure if i want a "budget" system or a expensive one cuz it'd be worth it.
> Any suggestions what processor is good?
> Ivy or Sandy?
> Considering getting Windows 8 full retail too.


Can't go wrong with the 3770k. Or save a couple bucks and slide down to the 3570k
I am really happy with the 3770k. Runs 4.7 no problem..if your into OCing..


----------



## jktmas

i havnt put it in yet as i am waiting on more parts but this is my current build and my board so plz give me the tag thing under my posts


----------



## [email protected]

Would be nice if we had more pictures. I wanna know what case is that.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I am planning on a new build and it will be this motherboard. I just cannot decide what processor to get. Torn on my decisions. Not sure if i want a "budget" system or a expensive one cuz it'd be worth it.
> Any suggestions what processor is good?
> Ivy or Sandy?
> Considering getting Windows 8 full retail too.


Sandy for max overclocking
Ivy for overall performance and efficiency.

Of course ivy can be maxed out, but you'll need to go quite extreme with your cooling, if you want to be hitting 5ghz or so at a stable temp.

As for which processor, like i5 vs i7 -> well are you going to use hyper threading or not is the question.
I don't even really fully utilise it, but thought: "If I'm spending £1100 on a pc, might as well spend the extra £80 for 4 more threads."
So I got the i7.


----------



## jktmas

@pwnt4life the case i posted is a NZXT guardian 921 R mid tower and i love it


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sandy for max overclocking
> Ivy for overall performance and efficiency.
> Of course ivy can be maxed out, but you'll need to go quite extreme with your cooling, if you want to be hitting 5ghz or so at a stable temp.
> As for which processor, like i5 vs i7 -> well are you going to use hyper threading or not is the question.
> I don't even really fully utilise it, but thought: "If I'm spending £1100 on a pc, might as well spend the extra £80 for 4 more threads."
> So I got the i7.


Well i ain't gonna probably fiddle overclocking cuz i like a longer life span and i sorta retired from Overclocking a couple of years ago. After experiencing bsods and more i decided to stop pressuring it lol.

Which is why i am on a slight budget but yea i want a i7 too but they're so darn expensive. And i am unsure if i wanna get it right now yet because i'm not good at making decisions. Man i wish we had discounted sales on NewEgg right now instead having to wait after Thanksgiving.


----------



## GeorgeH

BSODS pfftt you clearly weren't stable or didn't no what you were doing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Well i ain't gonna probably fiddle overclocking cuz i like a longer life span and i sorta retired from Overclocking a couple of years ago. After experiencing bsods and more i decided to stop pressuring it lol.
> Which is why i am on a slight budget but yea i want a i7 too but they're so darn expensive. And i am unsure if i wanna get it right now yet because i'm not good at making decisions. Man i wish we had discounted sales on NewEgg right now instead having to wait after Thanksgiving.


Longer life? Unless you're keeping it for 10 years, I wouldn't worry about longer life








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeorgeH*
> 
> BSODS pfftt you clearly weren't stable or didn't no what you were doing


Try my bsods -> faulty ram, that I didn't test when getting, meaning unstable for a month trying a stable oc.


----------



## Starlo77

Hi all,

Its been a while since I was last here posting comments, but I wanted to share my Asus Sabertooth build, now that it is more or less complete.

So that specs are as follows:

Intel i-5 3670K overclocked @4.5Ghz @1.275V, Asus Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard, Dual Gigabyte GTX 670 Oc's in SLI, 16Gb Corsair DDR3 1600 Mhz Ram, Corsair H80 CPU closed loop water cooling, Corsair TX 850W power supply, Corsair AF140mm case fans X 6, Corsair Carbide 500R white case, OCZ Agility 3 20nm SATA III 2.5" SSD, Western Digital 2TB hard disc, Benq XL2410T Monitor

The whole system just rocks, and I couldn't be happier. The only thing the I really want to do now, is sleeve the cables to give it that pro look.

I have run a couple of 3d mark 11 benchmarks and have so far had a best run of X6497 and P14708.

Would like to push the CPU a bit more soon, so I'll be looking for some advice from you fellow Sabers.


----------



## iARDAs

@ Starlo

Did you place the 2nd GPU in the 3rd slot? All the way down? NVM. I got it now.

Nice setup btw.

I will definitaly add a 2nd 670 myself. I decided on it.


----------



## volegradele

Hello, I have a problem when I want to increase the voltage (v-core) over 1.55v can not even boot, I get a message overvoltage, if anyone knows how to set this motherboard above 1.55v,thx?

This is my last score.








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2569470


----------



## grunion

Go into monitor and set cpu voltage to ignore.


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Go into monitor and set cpu voltage to ignore.


Thx!


----------



## volegradele

Here are some of the photos of my rig!


----------



## Zantrill

So, I decided to OC more than 4.1GHz I turned off XMP mode, put it in manual mode. All I changed was setting the memory to 1600 and changed to 100x44. Everything left on Auto. Getting 4.4GHz. So far so good. This is after running about 11 minutes of prime95.

This look ok? Any concerns here I need to look at? *CPUz*


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Ye, that button can also be used. You prepare a USB stick, put the bios file on it and name it Z77ST.CAP (the manual says so), hold that button for 3 seconds and it updates that bios file. There is one special USB3 slot marked for that on the back IO panel. The manual doesn't say much about it but I guess the stick has to go in there.
> Also I dunno if your machine has to be shut off when you press that bios button on the back. I'll need to update to 1206 anyway so I'll try it.
> Wish me luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit*
> I live! ... again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You shut down your machine, plug the stick into that labelled port and hold the bios button on the IO panel. After 2-3 seconds it starts blinking and after 3-4 seconds or so it starts reading the stick and updating the bios file. (my stick has some access led so I noticed it started blinking)
> When its finished, it just shuts down again. Seems like a nice feature for the lazy.


guys, I am trying this methos right now to update my BIOS. I follow these steps and now my BIOS button stop blinking but it's still glowing. My USB stick's led doenst blinking right now. Does its mean the process already ended or it still going on?


----------



## h3llkill3r

So I am going to buy this motherboard next week with an i7 3770k and the corsair 8gb(2*4gb) ram ( http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a1600c9.html ). The problem is that I don't know which cooler I am going to buy, since I am worried of space between to cpu and the ram. What air cooler do you suggest? As a case it's not a problem since I already bought the corsair 800D.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h3llkill3r*
> 
> So I am going to buy this motherboard next week with an i7 3770k and the corsair 8gb ram ( http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-8gb-quad-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m4x1600c9.html ). The problem is that I don't know which cooler I am going to buy, since I am worried of space between to cpu and the ram. What air cooler do you suggest? As a case it's not a problem since I already bought the corsair 800D.


If you are going to spend that much, I'd suggest go ahead and get the H100.


----------



## WivZ

guys, please answer my question.. I meed to know it right now.. D:


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> guys, I am trying this methos right now to update my BIOS. I follow these steps and now my BIOS button stop blinking but it's still glowing. My USB stick's led doenst blinking right now. Does its mean the process already ended or it still going on?


When the blinking stops on the motherboard, the update process is over.Of course you must do this when the computer is off!


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> So, I decided to OC more than 4.1GHz I turned off XMP mode, put it in manual mode. All I changed was setting the memory to 1600 and changed to 100x44. Everything left on Auto. Getting 4.4GHz. So far so good. This is after running about 11 minutes of prime95.
> This look ok? Any concerns here I need to look at? *CPUz*


My advice is to manually adjust the voltage, you find a stable voltage,then lock!


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> My advice is tomanually adjust the voltage, you find a stable voltage,then lock!


yea, I set it to 1.3 So far, only peaked to 70c on prime95 the last 35 minutes


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h3llkill3r*
> 
> So I am going to buy this motherboard next week with an i7 3770k and the corsair 8gb(2*4gb) ram ( http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a1600c9.html ). The problem is that I don't know which cooler I am going to buy, since I am worried of space between to cpu and the ram. What air cooler do you suggest? As a case it's not a problem since I already bought the corsair 800D.


You could get your "normal" cooler - fan.
But I would suggest a liquid cooler, like the antec 920 or the corsair H100 -> check my rig


----------



## Zantrill

set 45x100 @1.3v

So, I didn't see anything wrong with this although one thing weird.



*CPUz*

At the bottom left hand corner was some grey box that popped up for a moment. Said warning and something about voltage. Couldn't catch it exactly.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^1.3v is a bit too much, especially on temps (I think ull be hitting 90c easily after hours of p95)
I would have advised starting at around 1.25

I got 1.265v


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^1.3v is a bit too much, especially on temps (I think ull be hitting 90c easily after hours of p95)
> I would have advised starting at around 1.25
> 
> I got 1.265v


I did this, bsod right away


----------



## volegradele

that's why I love my sandy Bridge,4.8Ghz 1.44v,temps max 70C!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> I did this, bsod right away


intriguing!
that's high voltage for such a clock - but hey, all chips are different








Remember to test ur ram too - via a custom blend.

I suggest, for stability, doing a custom blend, and only changing the mb used in the ram to 90% of what's available.
If u need screenshots let me know.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> that's why I love my sandy Bridge,4.8Ghz 1.44v,temps max 70C!


yup - sandys are better on temps, thus better for overall ocing.


----------



## jktmas

to whoevers looking for a cooler, if you have room check out the NZXT kraken, it looks like its going to be a great cooler as it is on the 140mm scale not the 120mm scale


----------



## volegradele

If you want the best cooling and quietness, Noctua NH-D14 cooler is for you, but it's just ugly!
Before I had the H100 I had a Cooler Master V6 GT and I was pleased, but for a smaller overclocking, approximately 4.5 GHz, no more!(it was set to minimunm rpm)


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> When the blinking stops on the motherboard, the update process is over.Of course you must do this when the computer is off!


My BIOS button stop blinking but its stil glowing and it wont stop. I turn on my pc and my BIOS doenst update at all. Should I try it one more time? the BIOS button still glowing tho (not blinking)


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> set 45x100 @1.3v
> So, I didn't see anything wrong with this although one thing weird.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *CPUz*
> At the bottom left hand corner was some grey box that popped up for a moment. Said warning and something about voltage. Couldn't catch it exactly.


AI Suite doesn't play well with other monitoring utilities. If you run both at the same time, it will read wrong value because both fight with each other to read sensors.


----------



## volegradele




----------



## iARDAs

Does our motherboard have the feature to turn on the PC via clicking certain keys on the keyboard?


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guys needs some help or info

I have a z77 sabertooth and want to install windows 8 pro

1 what's the difference between the windows 8 ready z77 sabertooth and the ones that are not

2 I went to asus to download win 8 drivers and there no ubs drivers

3 do i need to install this ASUS Boot Setting V1.00.10 for Windows Win8 64bit.

4 In the bios under boot option there is a option for window 8 bios

5 should i update to the newest bios befor installing window 8


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi guys needs some help or info
> I have a z77 sabertooth and want to install windows 8 pro
> 1 what's the difference between the windows 8 ready z77 sabertooth and the ones that are not
> 2 I went to asus to download win 8 drivers and there no ubs drivers
> 3 do i need to install this ASUS Boot Setting V1.00.10 for Windows Win8 64bit.
> 4 In the bios under boot option there is a option for window 8 bios
> 5 should i update to the newest bios befor installing window 8


1-) All of the Z77s are the same hence they are all Windows 8 ready. That logo on the website is just to clarify that Windows 8 drivers are available to download and the motherboard will work 100% with Windows 8

2-) Windows 8 takes care of the USB drivers.

3-) No you dont. I did not

4 _) dont know

5-) Well I dont have the latest one but the one before that and it Works perfect. Normally always update your bios but I read in this topic that few people had issues with the latest one. Its up to you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The Sabertooth i am in the process of finishing..



My problem is this,it wont power off from a shut down command from windows,Windows shuts down but the board still runs.

BIOS updated to latest,running on optimized defaults

Power off button works and boots cleanly into windows with no safe prompt.

Is there a known fix for this? Other than pulling the battery,which will be a major pain.....


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Sabertooth i am in the process of finishing..
> 
> My problem is this,it wont power off from a shut down command from windows,Windows shuts down but the board still runs.
> BIOS updated to latest,running on optimized defaults
> Power off button works and boots cleanly into windows with no safe prompt.
> Is there a known fix for this? Other than pulling the battery,which will be a major pain.....


Can you elaborate as far as how you know the board is still on? Are you just referring to the red LED?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Sabertooth i am in the process of finishing..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My problem is this,it wont power off from a shut down command from windows,Windows shuts down but the board still runs.
> BIOS updated to latest,running on optimized defaults
> Power off button works and boots cleanly into windows with no safe prompt.
> Is there a known fix for this? Other than pulling the battery,which will be a major pain.....


my board is the same - it doesn't switch off, nor does my antec 920 as a matter of fact.
No idea why, or if it is intentional.

Beautiful looking rig though bro, and very tidy!


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> my board is the same - it doesn't switch off, nor does my antec 920 as a matter of fact.
> No idea why, or if it is intentional.
> Beautiful looking rig though bro, and very tidy!


I found that clearing the CMOS with the pin worked for me when I had that problem


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I found that clearing the CMOS with the pin worked for me when I had that problem


so you're saying that the board does switch off?
As in the antec should be off - and the board should also be off - although that said, after asking a few owners, people say the antec light, which i thought was board related - stays on for them too.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> so you're saying that the board does switch off?
> As in the antec should be off - and the board should also be off - although that said, after asking a few owners, people say the antec light, which i thought was board related - stays on for them too.


This is my experience as well. Thought it was normal...


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My problem is this,it wont power off from a shut down command from windows,Windows shuts down but the board still runs.
> BIOS updated to latest,running on optimized defaults
> Power off button works and boots cleanly into windows with no safe prompt.
> Is there a known fix for this? Other than pulling the battery,which will be a major pain.....
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Can you elaborate as far as how you know the board is still on? Are you just referring to the red LED?
Click to expand...

Its the GREEN LED on the Board That Stays Lighted for me.. Assists fans run for 1 minute after shutdown to carry away Heat. And my GTX 680 Green Led's stay lighted as well.. I would have to physically turn off my PSU to Remove PWR completely from the Board


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Its the GREEN LED on the Board That Stays Lighted for me.. Assists fans run for 1 minute after shutdown to carry away Heat. And my GTX 680 Green Led's stay lighted as well.. I would have to physically turn off my PSU to Remove PWR completely from the Board


THIS, I always hit the switch on the PSU before going to bed. Unless OP means he shuts down the OS but fans/pump still run


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> Its the GREEN LED on the Board That Stays Lighted for me.. Assists fans run for 1 minute after shutdown to carry away Heat. And my GTX 680 Green Led's stay lighted as well.. I would have to physically turn off my PSU to Remove PWR completely from the Board


Same for my rig,only green LED stay lighted,and assist fans run for 1 min!


----------



## volegradele

But imagine this,my PSU does not have power-off switch,how crazy is that!?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Everything is on still,screen displays windows shut down then goes black with no signal.


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Sabertooth i am in the process of finishing..
> 
> My problem is this,it wont power off from a shut down command from windows,Windows shuts down but the board still runs.
> BIOS updated to latest,running on optimized defaults
> Power off button works and boots cleanly into windows with no safe prompt.
> Is there a known fix for this? Other than pulling the battery,which will be a major pain.....


Nice rig,what kind of water cooling is that?


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Does our motherboard have the feature to turn on the PC via clicking certain keys on the keyboard?


As far as I'm aware: no. It's a sad thing though. In fact, it was one of my main arguments towards not buying this board, but of course I did after all. I've got a mechanical keyboard with the option of PS/2, and this board sadly doesn't have PS/2. With all my other Asus mobo's I was able to boot by using the spacebar using PS/2... I miss smashing that spacebar in order to boot...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Sabertooth i am in the process of finishing..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My problem is this,it wont power off from a shut down command from windows,Windows shuts down but the board still runs.
> BIOS updated to latest,running on optimized defaults
> Power off button works and boots cleanly into windows with no safe prompt.
> Is there a known fix for this? Other than pulling the battery,which will be a major pain.....


That is one nice looking rig... In fact, it's one of the prettiest I've ever seen, looks even better than those perfect rigs on the Corsair website (like this one). And I thought I finally managed to make my rig look somewhat pretty...



I'm afraid I do not know the solution to your problem though.


----------



## Arizonian

Nice rig B Negative.







Similar set up.

The Corsair 750/850 PSU's are short enough to allow a bottom fan blowing upward into your GPU's and it helps push air out as well as put some extra air.


----------



## MadHocus

I was a first time builder and I'd say go ivy bridge and this board. Also as someone who was stuck with a pentium 4ht and vista. Windows 8 has been a major and nice suprise. Get an ssd and that's worth it. From pushing the power button I was loaded and on the Internet in 10sec and that's i5 ivy. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Nice rig B Negative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Similar set up.
> The Corsair 750/850 PSU's are short enough to allow a bottom fan blowing upward into your GPU's and it helps push air out as well as put some extra air.


Its a rig i have built for a guy for his boy's Xmas present.

This is my rig....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a rig i have built for a guy for his boy's Xmas present.
> This is my rig....


simply one word - wow.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its a rig i have built for a guy for his boy's Xmas present.
> This is my rig....


Oh...my...god...


----------



## MadHocus

That is a flipping TANK! B Negative......


----------



## billythekid2012

Has anyone set up windows 8 on there sabertooth

Would like to find out what drivers you install and what version of the drivers

Just want to make sure i set it all up right

thanks


----------



## jojoenglish85

Ill be installing it tomorrow. Ill let you know how it goes.


----------



## C0re0per4tive

Hello fellow Asus Sabertooth Z77 owners,

I need some help from those with this motherboard along with a *600 series Geforce graphic card and the latest driver - 306.97 or 310.xx beta.*

I am having issues with an error that is constantly appearing in the event log *but does not cause or occur with crashes/failures.*

Only that a "nvlddmkm" error with description along the lines of "event id 14 description not found" gets recorded every so often - constantly.

Could you check your event log and see if there is a large amount of these errors? They seem to occur most when idling. It didn't start until the 306.97 version.

FYI I have troubleshooted this issue for some time via web and tried many setting changes in motherboard and nvidia control panel. I am in the process of an RMA and want to see if I can see if others had this issue, maybe resolved, maybe confirm its hardware, or confirm its software/driver issue or conflicts before proceeding.

Also, I did run memtest86+ for over 11 hours, 8 passes, and there was 0 errors (so not a bad DIMM issue likely).

For those who have similar computers as me, please take a look at the event log and reply your findings.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C0re0per4tive*
> 
> Hello fellow Asus Sabertooth Z77 owners,
> 
> I need some help from those with this motherboard along with a *600 series Geforce graphic card and the latest driver - 306.97 or 310.xx beta.*
> 
> I am having issues with an error that is constantly appearing in the event log *but does not cause or occur with crashes/failures.*
> Only that a "nvlddmkm" error with description along the lines of "event id 14 description not found" gets recorded every so often - constantly.
> 
> Could you check your event log and see if there is a large amount of these errors? They seem to occur most when idling. It didn't start until the 306.97 version.
> 
> FYI I have troubleshooted this issue for some time via web and tried many setting changes in motherboard and nvidia control panel. I am in the process of an RMA and want to see if I can see if others had this issue, maybe resolved, maybe confirm its hardware, or confirm its software/driver issue or conflicts before proceeding.
> 
> Also, I did run memtest86+ for over 11 hours, 8 passes, and there was 0 errors (so not a bad DIMM issue likely).
> 
> For those who have similar computers as me, please take a look at the event log and reply your findings.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


I think I have an identical PC to you.
I don't have that error with my gtx660ti.
No matter what driver it may be - the ones that came with the cd, or the latest one 306.97.

I had a bad DIMM btw, but memtest86, for over 20 passes, didn't find an error. I sent it in from RMA, and the company memtested it, and found the problem within a few hours (which surprised me)

However that bad ram issue, has nothing to do with the error you are seeing.
That error is (if i remember right) driver nvidia issue.
Tried uninstalling and re-installing?

My friend had nvidia errors himself, even after updating still had them.
I then uninstalled everything nvidia related, rebooted, then reinstalled, and he had no errors (in event viewer and at start-up)


----------



## C0re0per4tive

I can do a clean install of the entires windows 7 and install the 306.97 driver and the issues appears starting with THAT driver. I don't think any sort of clean up uninstall method works in my case.

What kind of signs did you have that your DIMMS were bad? i.e. what errors and symptoms did you see?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C0re0per4tive*
> 
> I can do a clean install of the entires windows 7 and install the 306.97 driver and the issues appears starting with THAT driver. I don't think any sort of clean up uninstall method works in my case.
> 
> What kind of signs did you have that your DIMMS were bad? i.e. what errors and symptoms did you see?


check my thread - prime rounding errors:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1320660/solved-need-help-with-running-a-stable-system-on-stock-clocks-prime95-failing

and I'm telling you re-installing nvidia drivers doesn't cost you anything but for 10mins of your time.
Try it.


----------



## C0re0per4tive

Quote:


> and I'm telling you re-installing nvidia drivers doesn't cost you anything but for 10mins of your time.
> Try it.


What I was implying by my reinstallation of the entire OS comment was that I already been through the driver install-uninstall tests. i.e. with or without driver fusion, update to beta, rollbacks etc. That was how I determined the issue did not occur before version 306.97. Hence I wanted to see if anyone else were getting these errors in the log as of this point - because it is "silent" (just logs error entries, no crash) and maybe one wouldn't ever notice it.

I don't think it gets any cleaner of a reinstall when you wipe out the OS on your drives vis formatting and reinstall the entire thing fresh. Driver installation/uninstallation was one of the first things attempted before moving on. I did a week's worth of surfing the net on my free time looking up as much nvlddmkm issues as I can. The closest post to what I experienced went to a dead in in the Sevens forum. That person had "dozens" of this type of error, but he checked it when he crashed. That is the issue - I get the errors constantly in the log/event viewer but I do not crash. Its like the card is "checking for something" and constantly failing that check when relatively idle.

The strangest part of the behavior was the errors seemed to stop - though not 100% confirmed - when the card was being stress tested via OC Scanner. But it would resume later on. I just state this because I noticed a 1 hour gap and I was doing 1 hour stress test for a multi-gpu on vs off scenario suggested by EVGA support techs.

I will have to test the RAM issue again if 11 hours of memtest isnt enough to verify the DIMMS are fine.

Right now the only thing I am wondering is did anyone else notice this particular behavior and perhaps find a solution or diagnose the problem.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C0re0per4tive*
> 
> What I was implying by my reinstallation of the entire OS comment was that I already been through the driver install-uninstall tests. i.e. with or without driver fusion, update to beta, rollbacks etc. That was how I determined the issue did not occur before version 306.97. Hence I wanted to see if anyone else were getting these errors in the log as of this point - because it is "silent" (just logs error entries, no crash) and maybe one wouldn't ever notice it.
> I don't think it gets any cleaner of a reinstall when you wipe out the OS on your drives vis formatting and reinstall the entire thing fresh. Driver installation/uninstallation was one of the first things attempted before moving on. I did a week's worth of surfing the net on my free time looking up as much nvlddmkm issues as I can. The closest post to what I experienced went to a dead in in the Sevens forum. That person had "dozens" of this type of error, but he checked it when he crashed. That is the issue - I get the errors constantly in the log/event viewer but I do not crash. Its like the card is "checking for something" and constantly failing that check when relatively idle.
> 
> _The strangest part of the behavior was the errors seemed to stop - though not 100% confirmed - when the card was being stress tested via OC Scanner. But it would resume later on. I just state this because I noticed a 1 hour gap and I was doing 1 hour stress test for a multi-gpu on vs off scenario suggested by EVGA support techs._
> 
> I will have to test the RAM issue again if 11 hours of memtest isnt enough to verify the DIMMS are fine.
> 
> Right now the only thing I am wondering is did anyone else notice this particular behavior and perhaps find a solution or diagnose the problem.


sorry who said anything about re-installing windows?
I'm saying get rid of the drivers, and all nvidia software, and re-install them, by re-downloading them via the website.
Who knows you could have had a corrupt download.
Try that first, then report back.

Also try googling the issue you are getting - don't worry if someone doesn't have the same error - just try to see if there are solutions.
Who knows, it could well be some HARDWARE fault with the GPU. But one cannot just assume.

As for memtest - as I said I had it running for 11hrs -> no fault, but yet p95 would find it within a minute.
So from now on I don't fully trust IBT, m86+, - but trust p95's judgement in stability and reliability of my hardware.

As I said, I don't think you are RAM related, nor CPU vcore related, nor motherboard related.
I suggest you look into that graphics card, and more so, post in the nvidia section of these forums, and not here.


----------



## C0re0per4tive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> sorry who said anything about re-installing windows?


Again:

It is implying a clean install - ridding all previous files and reinstalling - including the driver(s).

Quote:


> I'm saying get rid of the drivers, and all nvidia software, and re-install them, by re-downloading them via the website.
> Who knows you could have had a corrupt download.
> Try that first, then report back.


And what I am saying is I have done those steps already. It did not work.

Quote:


> Also try googling the issue you are getting - don't worry if someone doesn't have the same error - just try to see if there are solutions.
> Who knows, it could well be some HARDWARE fault with the GPU. But one cannot just assume.


I have also done that. As I said before, I have spent at least a week browsing different threads. I have also been through the same steps again with EVGA support, in which I am now at the RMA stage. In my original post in this thread, I have also specified I tried many things from the web; ex. excerpt below:

"FYI I have troubleshooted this issue for some time via web and tried many setting changes in motherboard and nvidia control panel. I am in the process of an RMA and want to see if I can see if others had this issue, maybe resolved, maybe confirm its hardware, or confirm its software/driver issue or conflicts before proceeding."

Quote:


> As I said, I don't think you are RAM related, nor CPU vcore related, nor motherboard related.
> I suggest you look into that graphics card, and more so, post in the nvidia section of these forums, and not here.


I understand you did not imply you think it is RAM related in my case. However, it is my decision that I should go back to do a more through check based on my confidence in them (or lack of). Do not worry about that.

And let me clarify why I posted here instead of the graphic card section. As mentioned in my original post, I am looking for people with this type of motherboard and 600 series Nvidia Geforce cards. Therefore, I found this post to be more appropriate. My main goal is to poll the users who have this combination and the driver version specified for the following detail made in my original post:

"Could you check your event log and see if there is a large amount of these errors? They seem to occur most when idling. It didn't start until the 306.97 version.

...

For those who have similar computers as me, please take a look at the event log and reply your findings."

You have already posted your findings and that is already of contribution. I will await for others results and see if anyone may have seen this behavior being logged before.


----------



## martian1

Hi everyone just need a little advice regarding flashing the bios do you really have to re name the bios file i already see it is a .CAP file is this not just required when you need to convert a bios .ROM file to a .CAP file for windows 8 compatability?
I have tried manually re-naming it but i am not given an option to re-name the file! Do you need to use a software tool to do this?

Thanks all:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Hi everyone just need a little advice regarding flashing the bios do you really have to re name the bios file i already see it is a .CAP file is this not just required when you need to convert a bios .ROM file to a .CAP file for windows 8 compatability?
> I have tried manually re-naming it but i am not given an option to re-name the file! Do you need to use a software tool to do this?
> Thanks all:thumb:


The tool to be used is:
Bios Renamer for USB BIOS Flashback

It can be found under the download section, under any OS, under bios utility:
http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

As for renaming - yes you have to rename it, in order to flash it via USB.
However, if you are using AI Suite II to flash it, you have no need to rename it.

Don't manually rename it. If you have, re-download the bios (to be on the safe side), and rename it using that tool "breamer" or whatever the name is of that program lol.


----------



## martian1

Ok i will be using usb via easyflash _strange you have to re-name a .CAP file virtually the same to get it to work. I really though this was just for the older motherboards prior the .CAP system..i have downloaded that software.
Another question..sorry i bought some fans to replace the little fans on mobo for cooling via the armour i got 40mmx40mm x10mm but the hole centres are out and the body seems bigger might have to send them back..anyone replaced these with quiet fans and could you post the model please.

Thanks







_


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Ok i will be using usb via easyflash _strange you have to re-name a .CAP file virtually the same to get it to work. I really though this was just for the older motherboards prior the .CAP system..i have downloaded that software.
> Another question..sorry i bought some fans to replace the little fans on mobo for cooling via the armour i got 40mmx40mm x10mm but the hole centres are out and the body seems bigger might have to send them back..anyone replaced these with quiet fans and could you post the model please.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _


Search this thread - there was a guy that has the Noctua fans - and says they work better and are more silent.
Only thing is, is that it will only fit in one of the 2 slots.


----------



## martian1

ok so the fans are actually 35mm not 40mm so you can fit one 40mm with the supplied bracket. So tell me if this is correct think i did it correctly regarding the bios update. I downloaded the brenamer file and i put it in the same folder as the downloaded sabertooth bios update i then ran the renamer file and it extracted [unzipped] the bios file it then opened a command prompt window showing the bios file [prior re-naming] it said to hit any key which i did, now when i look in the extracted bios file folder there is now a file called Z77ST.CAP it is 8194kb i assume thats its done and i can now load that in the root of a fat.32 formatted usbdrive correct?

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> ok so the fans are actually 35mm not 40mm so you can fit one 40mm with the supplied bracket. So tell me if this is correct think i did it correctly regarding the bios update. I downloaded the brenamer file and i put it in the same folder as the downloaded sabertooth bios update i then ran the renamer file and it extracted [unzipped] the bios file it then opened a command prompt window showing the bios file [prior re-naming] it said to hit any key which i did, now when i look in the extracted bios file folder there is now a file called Z77ST.CAP it is 8194kb i assume thats its done and i can now load that in the root of a fat.32 formatted usbdrive correct?
> Thanks


yeah that's right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just unzip it to a usb then use the bios ez flash,job done.


----------



## jktmas

xoxide.com has 6 40mm fans for sale and other moding products


----------



## martian1

Ok i have started to assemble the pc and hit another snag while putting the backplate of the corsair h100 on it refuses to tighten onto the mobo itself so ts slightly loose [about 1mm or less] seems like the pins that come through the motherboard from the backplate protrude above the surface of the board so that when i tighten the cpu cooler retention bolts they bottom out on the backplate pins..is this perfectly normal ? all my other coolers backplates tighten up snug to the board! Anyone else fit this cooler had issues please let me know if this is ok or not

cheers


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Ok i have started to assemble the pc and hit another snag while putting the backplate of the corsair h100 on it refuses to tighten onto the mobo itself so ts slightly loose [about 1mm or less] seems like the pins that come through the motherboard from the backplate protrude above the surface of the board so that when i tighten the cpu cooler retention bolts they bottom out on the backplate pins..is this perfectly normal ? all my other coolers backplates tighten up snug to the board! Anyone else fit this cooler had issues please let me know if this is ok or not
> cheers


Can you put a Washers on the Screws to Help Shim Them so they dont Protrude


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Maybe a silly question, but is it possible to make it so some usb ports are always powered on even when the computer is off? I seem to be having some troubles trying to figure out how to do so.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SocksWthSandals*
> 
> Maybe a silly question, but is it possible to make it so some usb ports are always powered on even when the computer is off? I seem to be having some troubles trying to figure out how to do so.


there's an option for USB charging, via the AI suite II bro.
I THINK that's what you want right?

Another question for y'all:
Anyone know more about Lucid MVP?
The feature that comes with the Z77?

Would like to know if that's any good at all?
I've disabled it, and don't use it at all - but just curious.

I see it more of an on-board graphics thing, rather than something I would need alongside my GTX660ti - am I wrong?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> there's an option for USB charging, via the AI suite II bro.
> I THINK that's what you want right?
> Another question for y'all:
> Anyone know more about Lucid MVP?
> The feature that comes with the Z77?
> Would like to know if that's any good at all?
> I've disabled it, and don't use it at all - but just curious.
> I see it more of an on-board graphics thing, rather than something I would need alongside my GTX660ti - am I wrong?


http://www.lucidlogix.com/product-virtu-mvp.shtml

It will switch between integrated and your dedicated card depending on how you're using your pc, which saves energy. I don't have a dedicated GPU installed right now so I can't comment on how seamless it is. It also does "virtual vsync" (vsync enabled in-game, no 60fps cap (120fps instead), no screen tearing is what they claim). Plus any rendering programs that can make use of it will render lots faster. That link has a demo video on it as well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> http://www.lucidlogix.com/product-virtu-mvp.shtml
> 
> It will switch between integrated and your dedicated card depending on how you're using your pc, which saves energy. I don't have a dedicated GPU installed right now so I can't comment on how seamless it is. It also does "virtual vsync" (vsync enabled in-game, no 60fps cap (120fps instead), no screen tearing is what they claim). Plus any rendering programs that can make use of it will render lots faster. That link has a demo video on it as well.


yeah i've seen all the marketing - just want to know about users really

Rendering wise - the i7 and ram and gtx660ti play a huge role in speed


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yeah i've seen all the marketing - just want to know about users really
> Rendering wise - the i7 and ram and gtx660ti play a huge role in speed


I'll see what difference it makes once I get my 670 or 680.

Of course that setup will render quickly, but the fact that with nothing other than enabling Virtu MVP you can get a sizeable increase in speed regardless of your setup is quite a cool feature in my opinion.

The review below shows anywhere from a 7-13% increase in fps on a similar setup.

This review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Virtu-Universal-MVP-Review/1548


----------



## Laserak

Hello all, first some history









I have owned AMD systems my entire PC gaming life, starting with an old athlon XP all the way up to my 955 BE. Then II have come to realize that AMD simply can not keep up anymore (hopefully not forever) and thus I have decided to finally come to the darkside that is Intel. I'm coming over with a bang as I have not upgraded in quite some time, I'm looking to get that "rush" of a new blazing fast pc.
I'm SERIOUSLY considering buying this Mobo, but then I stumbled upon this page while looking for some information and thought I would ask a few questions from owners of the board









First the constants, I have decided on these parts and many of my questions pertain to these decisions:
Case-> Corsair Graphite 600T (Black) I bought a white one of these for my wife, and the case is just massive on the inside, as well as it is quiet.
CPU->I7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (I know the I5 is the ideal solution for gaming, however I plan to use this PC to build webpages, meaning Photoshop, Fireworks etc.)
PSU->CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W Gotta have modular.
I will be reusing my recently purchased Asus 24" LED Monitor, and mouse keyboard etc.
I am looking at the ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B , but I am rather worried about the dimensions of the motherboard and case in corelation to this heatsink\fan, as well as my choice of memory.

I would like to use the CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (8*2) Kit on Newegg, but I have concerns with how this heatsink will work with the Mobo, Case, and Ram. If anyone has this specific setup, I would be enticed to know how it all fit together for you.

Thanks in advance, and any other suggestions for a cooling solution are welcome, except water, not ready to get wet


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laserak*
> 
> Hello all, first some history
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have owned AMD systems my entire PC gaming life, starting with an old athlon XP all the way up to my 955 BE. Then II have come to realize that AMD simply can not keep up anymore (hopefully not forever) and thus I have decided to finally come to the darkside that is Intel. I'm coming over with a bang as I have not upgraded in quite some time, I'm looking to get that "rush" of a new blazing fast pc.
> I'm SERIOUSLY considering buying this Mobo, but then I stumbled upon this page while looking for some information and thought I would ask a few questions from owners of the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the constants, I have decided on these parts and many of my questions pertain to these decisions:
> Case-> Corsair Graphite 600T (Black) I bought a white one of these for my wife, and the case is just massive on the inside, as well as it is quiet.
> CPU->I7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (I know the I5 is the ideal solution for gaming, however I plan to use this PC to build webpages, meaning Photoshop, Fireworks etc.)
> PSU->CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W Gotta have modular.
> I will be reusing my recently purchased Asus 24" LED Monitor, and mouse keyboard etc.
> I am looking at the ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B , but I am rather worried about the dimensions of the motherboard and case in corelation to this heatsink\fan, as well as my choice of memory.
> I would like to use the CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (8*2) Kit on Newegg, but I have concerns with how this heatsink will work with the Mobo, Case, and Ram. If anyone has this specific setup, I would be enticed to know how it all fit together for you.
> Thanks in advance, and any other suggestions for a cooling solution are welcome, except water, not ready to get wet


Perfect setup so far.

Look into the Corsair CPU cooling solutions such as H80 or H100

There are also new versions which are either just released or will be released soon. They are H80i and H100i.

Trust me. These H80 liquid solutions are incredibly easy to install. You just install the fans to the radiator, radiator to the case and than install the other part on the CPU. You don't have to insert liquid yourself or other stuff. It is so easy

Just watch this






I would strongly suggest you to get one of these for this beautiful board.

And in all honesty H80 will do the job just fine.


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> there's an option for USB charging, via the AI suite II bro.
> I THINK that's what you want right?
> Another question for y'all:
> Anyone know more about Lucid MVP?
> The feature that comes with the Z77?
> Would like to know if that's any good at all?
> I've disabled it, and don't use it at all - but just curious.
> I see it more of an on-board graphics thing, rather than something I would need alongside my GTX660ti - am I wrong?


Im just wanting to be able to have power to some usb ports while the computer is off. I was just wondering if there was a setting in the bios or something that allowed me to do so. I didnt think there was an option in AI suite to do so?

I have tried Lucid MVP. Didnt really see any improvement or anything so I stopped using it. I didnt really give it a fair try though to be honest. Only a few hours of Borderlands 2


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Ok i will be using usb via easyflash _strange you have to re-name a .CAP file virtually the same to get it to work. I really though this was just for the older motherboards prior the .CAP system..i have downloaded that software.
> Another question..sorry i bought some fans to replace the little fans on mobo for cooling via the armour i got 40mmx40mm x10mm but the hole centres are out and the body seems bigger might have to send them back..anyone replaced these with quiet fans and could you post the model please.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _


I am using the noctua 40mm ones and for the one lying flat on the armour i simply used double sided sticky pads as of course the holes will not line up properly. A more permanent fix will come later but for now it works for me. As for the enclosed one you must use the extra bracket they supplied and slightly modify it to allow the fatter fan to fit snugly against it then screw it in and slot it home.

I cannot hear them running at all despite seeing them turning after shut down it truly is silent. Expensive though.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laserak*
> 
> Hello all, first some history
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have owned AMD systems my entire PC gaming life, starting with an old athlon XP all the way up to my 955 BE. Then II have come to realize that AMD simply can not keep up anymore (hopefully not forever) and thus I have decided to finally come to the darkside that is Intel. I'm coming over with a bang as I have not upgraded in quite some time, I'm looking to get that "rush" of a new blazing fast pc.
> I'm SERIOUSLY considering buying this Mobo, but then I stumbled upon this page while looking for some information and thought I would ask a few questions from owners of the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the constants, I have decided on these parts and many of my questions pertain to these decisions:
> Case-> Corsair Graphite 600T (Black) I bought a white one of these for my wife, and the case is just massive on the inside, as well as it is quiet.
> CPU->I7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (I know the I5 is the ideal solution for gaming, however I plan to use this PC to build webpages, meaning Photoshop, Fireworks etc.)
> PSU->CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650M 650W Gotta have modular.
> I will be reusing my recently purchased Asus 24" LED Monitor, and mouse keyboard etc.
> I am looking at the ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B , but I am rather worried about the dimensions of the motherboard and case in corelation to this heatsink\fan, as well as my choice of memory.
> I would like to use the CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (8*2) Kit on Newegg, but I have concerns with how this heatsink will work with the Mobo, Case, and Ram. If anyone has this specific setup, I would be enticed to know how it all fit together for you.
> Thanks in advance, and any other suggestions for a cooling solution are welcome, except water, not ready to get wet


I have the Corsair 600T ad do not recommend it for this mobo, for several reasons. The first being it doesnt have proper USB3 ports in the case, just a single one in the front and this is only a lead so will not fit directly to the board without an expensive or cheap if you buy it in Greece







adapter. My second complaint is it is a stupidy large case imo 'overkill' is the phrase. The filters it claims to have are just useless grills covered in a material fibre that will be hard to clean. I got the model with a side grill which simply defeats the object of filters and lets dust and dirt in all over the place and after 2 weeks needs a clean out. There are holes in its base that do the same thing. Mine had two broken clips that I only noticed once the mobo and processor was installed. The front and rear of the case move around it took a lot of work to repair. IWhy didnt I return it you all ask, wellit was my second case and thie first was worse I was too keen on building my new PC to wait any longer. My friend came round to admire it before he bought one too and simply bought the Coolermaster Stormtrooper instead. It has neat SSD bays and a proper USB3 connector and better still is cheaper.. The filters are really good too. You can buy my case from me







if you like..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> I'll see what difference it makes once I get my 670 or 680.
> 
> Of course that setup will render quickly, but the fact that with nothing other than enabling Virtu MVP you can get a sizeable increase in speed regardless of your setup is quite a cool feature in my opinion.
> 
> The review below shows anywhere from a 7-13% increase in fps on a similar setup.
> 
> This review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Virtu-Universal-MVP-Review/1548


cheers for pointing me in the right direction - although FPS doesn't mean anything to me, seeing as I'm hitting a constant 60fps...and anything over (like 120) causes lines -> vsync
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SocksWthSandals*
> 
> Im just wanting to be able to have power to some usb ports while the computer is off. I was just wondering if there was a setting in the bios or something that allowed me to do so. I didnt think there was an option in AI suite to do so?
> I have tried Lucid MVP. Didnt really see any improvement or anything so I stopped using it. I didnt really give it a fair try though to be honest. Only a few hours of Borderlands 2


check ai suit II, I'm 100% sure there was a charging facility for it, however as I said, for other operations I don't know.
I just know it had power via usb still there.
Depends on your board too maybe - but my z77 has it, try looking it up








!


----------



## slayer191

Hey guys

Just joined the club on Thurday. Finish my build running I7-3770K with H100 with dual noctua fan's, Sabertooth z77, G.Skill Sniper 16gb 1866mhz (Board did not detect had to change manualy in BIOS, and GTX 680 SC 2gb (waiting for 2nd card for SLI in December.

Love he board only complaints are the fans on the mobo are loud. I tried every fan setting possible. Just wanted to now if i can sawp them out with some 40mm fans ? anyone tried ?
I was hopping for 2x 40mm noctua's they are ugly but i love them. is it possible ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slayer191*
> 
> Hey guys
> Just joined the club on Thurday. Finish my build running I7-3770K with H100 with dual noctua fan's, Sabertooth z77, G.Skill Sniper 16gb 1866mhz (Board did not detect had to change manualy in BIOS, and GTX 680 SC 2gb (waiting for 2nd card for SLI in December.
> Love he board only complaints are the fans on the mobo are loud. I tried every fan setting possible. Just wanted to now if i can sawp them out with some 40mm fans ? anyone tried ?
> I was hopping for 2x 40mm noctua's they are ugly but i love them. is it possible ?


search through the thread...or look one or two pages back. We have been discussing it.
I got rid of them completely.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I got rid of them completely.


Ditto, fearing that they're smaller fans, I assumed they'd be loud... never used them, still nicely wrapped in the little ziplock baggies they came in


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munkypoo7*
> 
> Ditto, fearing that they're smaller fans, I assumed they'd be loud... never used them, still nicely wrapped in the little ziplock baggies they came in


well I gave them a spin - literally, for over a month.
And realised, that was the loudest, most annoying thing in my whole rig.
I checked temp differences, and did comparisons, and also did my research on them.
Sure they help with about 5c at max load 100%, whilst on p95, for over 4-8hrs, but seeing as I won't be stressing my pc like that ever again, nor be always on, for say 24hrs of prime - I don't see the need for them.
My air flow on its own provides a nice breeze to the motherboard.


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slayer191*
> 
> Hey guys
> Just joined the club on Thurday. Finish my build running I7-3770K with H100 with dual noctua fan's, Sabertooth z77, G.Skill Sniper 16gb 1866mhz (Board did not detect had to change manualy in BIOS, and GTX 680 SC 2gb (waiting for 2nd card for SLI in December.
> Love he board only complaints are the fans on the mobo are loud. I tried every fan setting possible. Just wanted to now if i can sawp them out with some 40mm fans ? anyone tried ?
> I was hopping for 2x 40mm noctua's they are ugly but i love them. is it possible ?


I simply turned them off in the AI Suite II, they turned on only at high loads!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> I simply turned them off in the AI Suite II, they turned on only at high loads!


for me they would switch on, with those settings, even if I played bf3 - so the only time they weren't on was when I was in idle lol.


----------



## martian1

Got pc assembled at last, i ran out of time but managed to get it fired up basically just to make sure it did work ok i have no harddrive just cpu, memory and a old gpu..i have the corsair hydro 100 both the block and cpu [2500k sandybridge] are lapped just enough to get them nice and flat. What are the avarage idle temps you guys are getting mine are CPU 23deg Motherboard 23deg thats the bios readings anyway.





I expext this to increase obviously when i add extra memory and a gtx 580

cheers


----------



## iARDAs

Do i need to change the boot thing to Windows 8 in the UEFI from Legacy?rrrrrrrrrrrr


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Got pc assembled at last, i ran out of time but managed to get it fired up basically just to make sure it did work ok i have no harddrive just cpu, memory and a old gpu..i have the corsair hydro 100 both the block and cpu [2500k sandybridge] are lapped just enough to get them nice and flat. What are the avarage idle temps you guys are getting mine are CPU 23deg Motherboard 23deg thats the bios readings anyway.
> I expext this to increase obviously when i add extra memory and a gtx 580
> cheers


I don't think the ram & GPU will make a difference on your temps of your CPU.
But when you put full load on it. (CPU only).

I get around 30-35c idle temps, but playing bf3 on ultra, I'll get max around 50-65c.
P95 however....goes all the way up to 92c


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't think the ram & GPU will make a difference on your temps of your CPU.
> But when you put full load on it. (CPU only).
> I get around 30-35c idle temps, but playing bf3 on ultra, I'll get max around 50-65c.
> P95 however....goes all the way up to 92c


92c is pretty darn hot,my temps ar at full load around 55c!!But when I OC to 4.8GHz,1.4v it never pass 65-68c!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> 92c is pretty darn hot,my temps ar at full load around 55c!!But when I OC to 4.8GHz,1.4v it never pass 65-68c!


Haha yup. That's what happens to my poor ivy.
Btw, those temps, aren't your cpu temps, but your motherboard chipset temps.
Open up real temp and then let me know









My motherboard temps, were like yours.


----------



## volegradele

Default settings:


OC settings:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah run it for 2hrs








Temps will vary based on the test being performed.
I found that it's only within 1hr of p95 that you'll see temps shoot up.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks.

How is the sound quality of our Asus Sabertooth Z77's sound drivers?

I have a Creative XFI titanium but I am wondering if I should just sell it and uninstall and use Sabertooth Z77's internal sound.

I am looking for honest answers.

I can also try this of coruse when I go home but I really don't want to enable internal sound drivers of the motherboard and have a conflict with the creative drivers I have.

BTW my soundcard is Creative XFI Titanium.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks.
> 
> How is the sound quality of our Asus Sabertooth Z77's sound drivers?
> 
> I have a Creative XFI titanium but I am wondering if I should just sell it and uninstall and use Sabertooth Z77's internal sound.
> 
> I am looking for honest answers.
> 
> I can also try this of coruse when I go home but I really don't want to enable internal sound drivers of the motherboard and have a conflict with the creative drivers I have.
> 
> BTW my soundcard is Creative XFI Titanium.


Here's my honest opinion:

I bought this board thinking the sound would be OK. I had a Xonar DG but I thought "o well I'll just put that in my spare rig and have a cleaner looking PC" as the Sabertooth Z77 doesn't have a PCI slot. Well, the on board sound of the Sabertooth Z77 made me sad







. I'm no audiophile but I immediately noticed the difference; the sound of the on board chip seemed way more 'shallow' to me, making guns sound like fire crackers in games (I'm exaggerating a bit to make a point). I ordered a Xonar DGX asap and what a relief it is.

I believe your sound card is way more high end than mine (this one is only 35 bucks), so you would definitely notice the difference. I would never dump that card to go for the on board sound of the Sabertooth Z77. If you really want to sell it, I would take it out for a full week first. When the crying starts, put it back in (exaggerating a bit again







).


----------



## iARDAs

Thanks for the honest review. I will not even take the time to try it in this case.

Keeping the soundcard for sure 

+rep


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks.
> 
> How is the sound quality of our Asus Sabertooth Z77's sound drivers?
> 
> I have a Creative XFI titanium but I am wondering if I should just sell it and uninstall and use Sabertooth Z77's internal sound.
> 
> I am looking for honest answers.
> 
> I can also try this of coruse when I go home but I really don't want to enable internal sound drivers of the motherboard and have a conflict with the creative drivers I have.
> 
> BTW my soundcard is Creative XFI Titanium.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Here's my honest opinion:
> I bought this board thinking the sound would be OK. I had a Xonar DG but I thought "o well I'll just put that in my spare rig and have a cleaner looking PC" as the Sabertooth Z77 doesn't have a PCI slot. Well, the on board sound of the Sabertooth Z77 made me sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm no audiophile but I immediately noticed the difference; the sound of the on board chip seemed way more 'shallow' to me, making guns sound like fire crackers in games (I'm exaggerating a bit to make a point). I ordered a Xonar DGX asap and what a relief it is.
> I believe your sound card is way more high end than mine (this one is only 35 bucks), so you would definitely notice the difference. I would never dump that card to go for the on board sound of the Sabertooth Z77. If you really want to sell it, I would take it out for a full week first. When the crying starts, put it back in (exaggerating a bit again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


My also honest opinion:
I got the Z77 in, and when I put it in, I was disgusted with the sound quality (it was terrible) My 4yr old motherboard sounded only slightly worse than it.
I immediately had to switch via optical out, to my Z-5500 - even my logitech did a better job of processing the sound than the motherboard did - put it that way.

I used to have the D1, but as it was PCI, it didn't fit - so i was forced to buy the DX - and I absolutely love it (apart from the fact it is made by asus, and has the worst implementation of software imaginable)

Long story short, as the other gent said - keep your soundcard, it is definitely worth it.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Here's my honest opinion:
> I bought this board thinking the sound would be OK. I had a Xonar DG but I thought "o well I'll just put that in my spare rig and have a cleaner looking PC" as the Sabertooth Z77 doesn't have a PCI slot. Well, the on board sound of the Sabertooth Z77 made me sad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm no audiophile but I immediately noticed the difference; the sound of the on board chip seemed way more 'shallow' to me, making guns sound like fire crackers in games (I'm exaggerating a bit to make a point). I ordered a Xonar DGX asap and what a relief it is.
> I believe your sound card is way more high end than mine (this one is only 35 bucks), so you would definitely notice the difference. I would never dump that card to go for the on board sound of the Sabertooth Z77. If you really want to sell it, I would take it out for a full week first. When the crying starts, put it back in (exaggerating a bit again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


This is spot on. ^^ Won't drive higher end Cans either. Very disappointed..


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah run it for 2hrs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps will vary based on the test being performed.
> I found that it's only within 1hr of p95 that you'll see temps shoot up.


1h,only getting lower in my case!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volegradele*
> 
> 1h,only getting lower in my case!


OHHH I couldn't see ont he phone - now ont he PC - you got the 2500K!
Yeah sandy's run MUCH cooler dude.
That's why i said Ivy is a pain to OC, as with the same OC, you need a beast of a cooler to hit 5ghz.


----------



## dark7721

Hi Guys N Girls im wonting to over clock my 3570K but i seem to be missing some options In the UEFI have i got somthing switch off or somthing



im missing the muti core n turbo ratio just to name a few

plz advice thank in advance


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Change it to manual rather than xmp bro, and the options should appear


----------



## dark7721

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Change it to manual rather than xmp bro, and the options should appear


ill try thanks


----------



## dark7721

no thats not done anything


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> no thats not done anything


Turn off Offset mode to manual. Aslo, trying to find what else made my Turbo ratio pop up on that screen



Oh, and never mind my 103x43 settings. Not what I would recommend. This was when I was playing around with it. I'm actually at 100x45 @1.3vcore


----------



## dark7721

sorry still not working





sorry to be a pain


----------



## Zantrill

check my updated post. Looks like I set my cpu bus speed to 100:133


----------



## dark7721

hi try that and still not working


----------



## Zantrill

Have you checked on the OC Tuner options? That may do it?


----------



## dark7721

ill have a look


----------



## dark7721

hi it ant got the options up but has got a 4.2 oc so it better than what it was thanks for all the help all of you ( Zantrill , totally dubbed ) + rep to you both


----------



## Zantrill

cool, glad I could help


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi it ant got the options up but has got a 4.2 oc so it better than what it was thanks for all the help all of you ( Zantrill , totally dubbed ) + rep to you both


pleasure bro - but I'm still curious as to why you can't see it.

Check my full bios settings:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293

Maybe something to do with the multiplier in one of the options?
Maybe your mobo just doesn't support it?

AH HA!
What BIOS REVISION are you on?!

That might explain it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293

Latest is 1616


----------



## dark7721

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> pleasure bro - but I'm still curious as to why you can't see it.
> Check my full bios settings:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> Maybe something to do with the multiplier in one of the options?
> Maybe your mobo just doesn't support it?
> AH HA!
> What BIOS REVISION are you on?!
> That might explain it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> Latest is 1616


Hi im runninh the 1616 bios and im running the same MB as you with a 3570K


----------



## dark7721

i also dont have any iGPU options


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> i also dont have any iGPU options


Looks like your bios is possibly corrupted.


----------



## n1ksthlm

Hello, another Sabertooth Z77 owner reporting in. I made a thread a few minutes ago in general hardware, but i figured i could ask here aswell (which might even be the correct place).
Today when i entered the BIOS on my Asus Sabertooth Z77 to check out the CPU configuration (new computer) i started hearing some really varying and inconsistent beeps in both volume and frequency (like in how often it would beep). After some google searches it sounded like it could be Beep code for something, but after listening again it seems unlikely considering:
1. It's extremely inconsistent
2. It's very low volume
3. It's impossible to hear a pattern pretty much

Also another factor after restarting computer several times and being in Metro and inside programs is that the beeping only starts in BIOS and nowhere else. I haven't tried resetting CMOS yet, but is this anything anyone have encountered themselves? It's brand new hardware and i'm worried sick about it since i got a lot of help with putting the computer together and frankly have a very, very limited knowledge of PC's at this point. (only used macs).

Since the sound only appears in the BIOS it feels natural to ask in here. Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

The beep is probably the boot code? I don't have this motherboard but i know all motherboards have beep codes if there is something wrong with it.

If it's still beeping maybe something isn't seated fully or perhaps bad hardware. Not sure. I am certain the members who own the same motherboard will respond this.

It's interesting that you said you hear beeps. I think it's probably the bios protection thing? Unless i'm wrong that is.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> Hi im runninh the 1616 bios and im running the same MB as you with a 3570K


Also it's nice to know what revision the motherboard is on. That helps me be prepared when i order one on Black Fridays and hopefully it is already up to date and if not, i'll have to update it.

However here's the funny part. See my sig rig?

I haven't need to update bios because i never had problems with this motherboard at all.

Should i update for any reason or not because there is nothing wrong with it at all?

I must be lucky to have a motherboard that works well and never bsods.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> i also dont have any iGPU options


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Looks like your bios is possibly corrupted.


I don't know about corrupted....but that is not normal - at all.
You SHOULD have iGPU options.
Have you installed the drivers?
Not like it should make a difference...but anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Also it's nice to know what revision the motherboard is on. That helps me be prepared when i order one on Black Fridays and hopefully it is already up to date and if not, i'll have to update it.
> However here's the funny part. See my sig rig?
> I haven't need to update bios because i never had problems with this motherboard at all.
> Should i update for any reason or not because there is nothing wrong with it at all?
> I must be lucky to have a motherboard that works well and never bsods.


if it ain't broken, don't try fixing it.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't know about corrupted....but that is not normal - at all.
> You SHOULD have iGPU options.
> Have you installed the drivers?
> Not like it should make a difference...but anyway.
> if it ain't broken, don't try fixing it.


He has a multitude of bios issues, not just the igpu options.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> Hi Guys N Girls im wonting to over clock my 3570K but i seem to be missing some options In the UEFI have i got somthing switch off or somthing
> 
> im missing the muti core n turbo ratio just to name a few
> plz advice thank in advance


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> i also dont have any iGPU options


Definitely something wrong with your UEFI BIOS. Try reset CMOS by using the jumper or button or by removing the coin battery for 20 seconds. If this doesn't solved, you might need to re-flash the BIOS. Remember to load defaults (BIOS settings) before flashing BIOS.


----------



## dark7721

hi thanks for all the help ill try to reset bios in a min then reflash it see if that helps


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Remember to load defaults (BIOS settings) before flashing BIOS.


I've never heard that one before. Do you think it decreases chances of a bad flash?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> I've never heard that one before. Do you think it decreases chances of a bad flash?


extremely unlikely - but who knows :/
Dealing with asus....oh god - I hope dark can solve this without rma'ing anything.


----------



## dark7721

hi guys reflash bios with 4 diffent ones but still dint chang anything so had MB out took thermal armor off took battrey out for about 1 min the put it back no change i even change the battray still no diffents . any other ideas ill try anything ?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> hi guys reflash bios with 4 diffent ones but still dint chang anything so had MB out took thermal armor off took battrey out for about 1 min the put it back no change i even change the battray still no diffents . any other ideas ill try anything ?


Order a new bios chip from Asus.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Order a new bios chip from Asus.


may the force be with you....asus are horrible.


----------



## dark7721

would it not be easyer to RMA it to overclockers UK and just get a new board or dont you think they will help as the board works it just the bios ? thanks to all the people that have try to help your all brill


----------



## martian1

I just flashed the bios today and it went ok as it is a new build i ran a memory test prior update just incase i have bad memory issues. Can anyone tell me if this idle temp is typical..hoping i have a good cool chip although i did lap it and the block. I ran prime95 with a little overclock and the cores didin't exceed 44 degc after 30mins.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> would it not be easyer to RMA it to overclockers UK and just get a new board or dont you think they will help as the board works it just the bios ? thanks to all the people that have try to help your all brill


I would RMA it, or at least call OCUK about it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> I just flashed the bios today and it went ok as it is a new build i ran a memory test prior update just incase i have bad memory issues. Can anyone tell me if this idle temp is typical..hoping i have a good cool chip although i did lap it and the block. I ran prime95 with a little overclock and the cores didin't exceed 44 degc after 30mins.


I think sandy can be cooler - but that's fine.


----------



## r0b126

Anyone know where to get the USB drivers for this? I installed the ones off the website, but it only seems to install for 2 out of the 3 USB controllers listed in device manager. The drivers do not seem to apply to the last one and when I download older versions of the USB driver available on the asus website, windows keeps looking in each of the folders that come with the zip and saying it can not find drivers for that device.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dark7721*
> 
> i also dont have any iGPU options


I have the same proc as you (3570K) my bios looks the same. I've had to do my tweaking through the UEFI


----------



## lexw

hey guys, i was looking through some of the old posts and couldnt see anything that might help. this is my first build and Im having some trouble. i put all the parts together but when i try booting it up, the system starts, the fans turn on but then it shuts down and then restarts after a few seconds.

heres my build:

Case: NZXT Phantom 410
Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz
Graphics: Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
RAM: 2x Kingston HyperX Blu Red Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (KHX16C10B1R/8 HDD):
HDD: Seagate Constellation ES 1 TB
Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
Other:
Power Supply Thermaltake TPG-650M Toughpower Grand GOLD 650W ATX

anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexw*
> 
> hey guys, i was looking through some of the old posts and couldnt see anything that might help. this is my first build and Im having some trouble. i put all the parts together but when i try booting it up, the system starts, the fans turn on but then it shuts down and then restarts after a few seconds.
> heres my build:
> Case: NZXT Phantom 410
> Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
> Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz
> Graphics: Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
> RAM: 2x Kingston HyperX Blu Red Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (KHX16C10B1R/8 HDD):
> HDD: Seagate Constellation ES 1 TB
> Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
> Other:
> Power Supply Thermaltake TPG-650M Toughpower Grand GOLD 650W ATX
> anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?


fans?
Could be power supply related?
You tried removing and exchanging ram?
Try having nothing plugged in apart from the motherboard and essential parts.

Try to see what's the part that's doing it.


----------



## lexw

Ive tested the PSU with the paperclip test and the fan worked perfectly.

Ive been trying to disconnect everything and leaving the bare minimum (PSU, motherboard) but it continues to be in a boot loop.

could it been the motherboard or the CPU?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexw*
> 
> Ive tested the PSU with the paperclip test and the fan worked perfectly.
> Ive been trying to disconnect everything and leaving the bare minimum (PSU, motherboard) but it continues to be in a boot loop.
> could it been the motherboard or the CPU?


I've had my Sabertooth do this to me a couple of times. Here's what I would suggest:


Turn off the PSU and unplug the power cable
Wait for the green power LED to go out
Move the CMOS jumper over to reset the BIOS settings
Go get coffee/grab the mail/etc.
Come back, move the CMOS jumper to its original position
Plug in PSU, turn on and see if it will boot.

I've seen instances where these boards come from the factory and won't boot unless the BIOS is reset.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Remember to load defaults (BIOS settings) before flashing BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> I've never heard that one before. Do you think it decreases chances of a bad flash?
Click to expand...

It's a something you want to do before flashing BIOS. Bad flash usually cause by the update program somehow corrupted or there is something wrong with BIOS chip that render the update program to failed (even if it reported successful after flash). Flashing BIOS is risky but if you follow some rules you can reduced the risk. With BIOS USB flashback we shouldn't worry with BIOS corrupted when updating but I've read even with this feature available, it failed to recover from bad flash in some cases. In these cases, there's definitely something wrong with BIOS chip & replacing BIOS chip fixed the problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexw*
> 
> hey guys, i was looking through some of the old posts and couldnt see anything that might help. this is my first build and Im having some trouble. i put all the parts together but when i try booting it up, the system starts, the fans turn on but then it shuts down and then restarts after a few seconds.
> heres my build:
> Case: NZXT Phantom 410
> Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
> Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz
> Graphics: Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
> RAM: 2x Kingston HyperX Blu Red Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (KHX16C10B1R/8 HDD):
> HDD: Seagate Constellation ES 1 TB
> Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
> Other:
> Power Supply Thermaltake TPG-650M Toughpower Grand GOLD 650W ATX
> anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?


Probably short or something. Try put together outside the case. See whether it boot or not.


----------



## dm451

Hello, all! Could you help me with my big problem. I have bought Asus Sabertooth Z77, all is OK except of FANS!!!! They are too loud! I mean 2 little assist fans from Asus! I tried to turn them off in BIOS and ASUS programm but they turn on suddenly in certain time, thats why I need your help.
And the second question - which card is better for this motherboard - GTX680 or R7970?
Thank you a lot!


----------



## iARDAs

680 7970 is a personal preference. Get whichever you like. I personally like the Nvidia GPUs but with the latest drivers AMD became a better purchase price/performance wise.

About the fans, you can replace them with Noctua 40mm fans. Look back few pages and you will see people using quieter fans.

Also you can always take them out OR you can go to Asus Suite 2 and make a USER profile and EDIT the profile in a way that the fan will spin 40% IF the temperature goes to 70 degrees or something like that. I personally have the asist fan settings to FAN OFF. It does not turn off the fan but makes it work only at a certain higher temperature

But again if you want them to be off, just unplug them


----------



## dm451

Thank you for the full antwort.
Quote:


> About the fans, you can replace them with Noctua 40mm fans. Look back few pages and you will see people using quieter fans.


But ASUS fans have 35x35 as I know.
Quote:


> 680 7970 is a personal preference. Get whichever you like. I personally like the Nvidia GPUs but with the latest drivers AMD became a better purchase price/performance wise.


I have read in many tests that with 7970 you can get black screens...


----------



## iARDAs

As I said AMD drivers evolved and unless you have a faulty unit the chances of having a black screen is minimal.

Consider 670 too. Its 100 dollars cheaper than 680 and performs same when OCed without voltage tweaking.

You can also take a look at a 7950 which is the best price/performance GpU on the market

They will ALL WORK WELL with your motherbord.

I am not too sure about the size of the Asus turbo fans but I did see few users here using different fans on their system which worked well. Ask them about it. Maybe they found 35x35 fans somewhere else.Since I am happy with the Asus Turban fans with my fan profiles I did not really look into it much.


----------



## dm451

Can you share your fan profile? Probably with it I'll become a comfort.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> 680 7970 is a personal preference. Get whichever you like. I personally like the Nvidia GPUs but with the latest drivers AMD became a better purchase price/performance wise.
> 
> About the fans, you can replace them with Noctua 40mm fans. Look back few pages and you will see people using quieter fans.
> 
> Also you can always take them out OR you can go to Asus Suite 2 and make a USER profile and EDIT the profile in a way that the fan will spin 40% IF the temperature goes to 70 degrees or something like that. I personally have the asist fan settings to FAN OFF. It does not turn off the fan but makes it work only at a certain higher temperature
> 
> But again if you want them to be off, just unplug them


Lol I swear no one ever reads or attempts to search threads for answers before asking questions









Anyway, the fans have been a major discussion point for a long time, so search the thread and there are numerous postings regarding them. To the OP, I also gave step by step instructions pretty much to how to set the profiles for the quietest fan options. Not sure how many pages back, but was just a couple weeks ago.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Depending on your overall components, the fans may or may not be noticeable. I keep my rig on the ground and run 6 case fans on top of my h100 cooler, so those 40mm I can't even hear... As far as disabling, just go into bios and in advanced mode toward the bottom you should see the option for "asst 1/2 fan" controls or something to that effect. The 40mm fans your referring to run on the asst 1 and asst 2, and if you have them connected, can't be fully disabled to my knowledge. However, you have a couple options to minimize noise.
> First, if you enable the Q-fan control, you can then either set them to "silent" or "fan-off." Silent basically auto adjusts to run at lowest speeds depending on temps, and "fan-off" completely turns them off when mobo is idle or decreased past a certain temp.
> If you disable the q-fan control (out of box this is disabled), and your asst1/2 profile is set to manual, then you can adjust the upper temps to a higher setting so that it takes a hotter temp to cause them to run at max speeds.
> Also, by setting the lower temps at a higher degree, then it will cause the fans to run at minimum speeds at a higher threshhold.
> From here, just mess with your min/max duty cycles (i think min is 60%) to get the slowest speeds.


And not meaning to be rude, but just to inform people who may not know the "Search this thread" option; All I did was type in "fan profile bios" (some keywords) and my above post was like the second one to pop up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dm451*
> 
> Thank you for the full antwort.
> But ASUS fans have 35x35 as I know.
> I have read in many tests that with 7970 you can get black screens...


I got rid of my fans.

As for replacing them, you can only replace one of them due to the size difference. ASF 1 only.


----------



## n1ksthlm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Today when i entered the BIOS on my Asus Sabertooth Z77 to check out the CPU configuration (new computer) i started hearing some really varying and inconsistent beeps in both volume and frequency (like in how often it would beep). After some google searches it sounded like it could be Beep code for something, but after listening again it seems unlikely considering:
1. It's extremely inconsistent
2. It's very low volume
3. It's impossible to hear a pattern pretty much



No one else?

Also another question, i didn't install the tiny included fans when i set up my motherboard. Would that be an issue?


----------



## lexw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> I've had my Sabertooth do this to me a couple of times. Here's what I would suggest:
> 
> Turn off the PSU and unplug the power cable
> Wait for the green power LED to go out
> Move the CMOS jumper over to reset the BIOS settings
> Go get coffee/grab the mail/etc.
> Come back, move the CMOS jumper to its original position
> Plug in PSU, turn on and see if it will boot.
> I've seen instances where these boards come from the factory and won't boot unless the BIOS is reset.


Tried this, still didnt work =/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> It's a something you want to do before flashing BIOS. Bad flash usually cause by the update program somehow corrupted or there is something wrong with BIOS chip that render the update program to failed (even if it reported successful after flash). Flashing BIOS is risky but if you follow some rules you can reduced the risk. With BIOS USB flashback we shouldn't worry with BIOS corrupted when updating but I've read even with this feature available, it failed to recover from bad flash in some cases. In these cases, there's definitely something wrong with BIOS chip & replacing BIOS chip fixed the problem.
> Probably short or something. Try put together outside the case. See whether it boot or not.


Took out the motherboard and only connected it to the PSU. Still doing the same thing. Any other suggestions?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexw*
> 
> Tried this, still didnt work =/
> Took out the motherboard and only connected it to the PSU. Still doing the same thing. Any other suggestions?


As much as I hate to say it, I'd try giving ASUS a call. It may be something they are aware of.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> As much as I hate to say it, I'd try giving ASUS a call. It may be something they are aware of.


hmmm....avoid at all costs calling monkeys.


----------



## lexw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hmmm....avoid at all costs calling monkeys.


I would love to avoid them at all costs, any suggestions on what i might do to solve the issue? could it be a problem with the cpu?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexw*
> 
> I would love to avoid them at all costs, any suggestions on what i might do to solve the issue? could it be a problem with the cpu?


Try reseating your CPU. The pins could be bent. Worst case. Inspect the socket on the board.
Have you tried running only one stick of Ram? In A2.. If nothing works and continues the endless reboot. Rma. That board.


----------



## plutojai

Hi guys,

I just build a new computer and I am having issues. Any help will be greatly appreciate.

1. When booting up. My Crucial SSD (with win 7 64 bit installed would not be recognized). So I have to go into the BIOS system. Under easy mode, the SSD can't not be recognized, but in the Advanced Mode, the SSD is there, after I "saved and reset" in BIOS. Reboot my pc. The SSD read and win7 start, no further issue. However, I have to do that everytime I boot up my pc

2. My mobo is sabertooth z77. It sometimes takes few attempts before the speaker beeps and the mobo boots up(1-3 times).

Not sure what are the issues for the above 2. Please help! Thank you! . My spec is below:

Mobo: Asus sabertooth z77
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
SSD: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
PSU: Coolermaster 600W (my 1000W PSU is RMA'ed, this is the old one, #2 above happen with either the PSU)
VGA: XFX AMD DoubleD 6870 1GB

Thank you!


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plutojai*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I just build a new computer and I am having issues. Any help will be greatly appreciate.
> 1. When booting up. My Crucial SSD (with win 7 64 bit installed would not be recognized). So I have to go into the BIOS system. Under easy mode, the SSD can't not be recognized, but in the Advanced Mode, the SSD is there, after I "saved and reset" in BIOS. Reboot my pc. The SSD read and win7 start, no further issue. However, I have to do that everytime I boot up my pc
> 2. My mobo is sabertooth z77. It sometimes takes few attempts before the speaker beeps and the mobo boots up(1-3 times).
> Not sure what are the issues for the above 2. Please help! Thank you! . My spec is below:
> Mobo: Asus sabertooth z77
> CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
> SSD: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
> PSU: Coolermaster 600W (my 1000W PSU is RMA'ed, this is the old one, #2 above happen with either the PSU)
> VGA: XFX AMD DoubleD 6870 1GB
> Thank you!


I had the 1st issue you mentioned

to fix it

GO to advanced

BOOT

all the way down there is Hard Drive BBS Priorities

Click that and make sure Boot Option 1 is your hdd or ssd that you have WINDOWS on

Than go back to the BOOT scren

Right above HDD Drive BBS Priorities there is Boot Option Priorities

Make sure either Boot Option 1 or 2 is that SSD or HDD you have Windows on as well.


----------



## WivZ

Hi guys,

I upgraded to Windows 8 Pro and every time the Desktop is starting, a dialog shows up that says "Failed to initial environment."
Can anyone help me how to settle this problem? Thank you


----------



## n1ksthlm

When overclocking an intel CPU in the sabertooth Z77 bios, there is no "turbo multiplier", and you have to set the frequency on each core?
Is that right or am i missing an option in my bios?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n1ksthlm*
> 
> When overclocking an intel CPU in the sabertooth Z77 bios, there is no "turbo multiplier", and you have to set the frequency on each core?
> Is that right or am i missing an option in my bios?


there is turbo.
Check my bios settings in my signature.


----------



## n1ksthlm

Oh, seemed to do the same thing. I'm hovering around 55-62C on all cores after 10 min of blend in Prime95 @ 4.2.
But regarding voltage settings there is manual and offset, i was expecting something like an auto setting. I take it i shold leave it at offset if i'm satisfied with this.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n1ksthlm*
> 
> Oh, seemed to do the same thing. I'm hovering around 55-62C on all cores after 10 min of blend in Prime95 @ 4.2.
> But regarding voltage settings there is manual and offset, i was expecting something like an auto setting. I take it i shold leave it at offset if i'm satisfied with this.


if u aren't running stock, which u aren't - you should not be on auto mode.
You have to p95 it for over 12hrs, on a manual vcore, and see if it works - if prime fails, or u get a bsod - you up the voltage.

If that works, and u find ur manual voltage - then u can calculate the offset value.


----------



## n1ksthlm

Oh, right. Thanks, also i noticed after i loaded optimized defaults that turbo mode was enabled and my core speed was at 3.9. That should be disabled both if you want to run at stock or if you want to overclock yourself i take it. It's just something to disable and forget about?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n1ksthlm*
> 
> Oh, right. Thanks, also i noticed after i loaded optimized defaults that turbo mode was enabled and my core speed was at 3.9. That should be disabled both if you want to run at stock or if you want to overclock yourself i take it. It's just something to disable and forget about?


Well after 3.9 - turbo will be automatically disabled. Put it that way bro


----------



## martian1

Just a little advice from any overclockers







i have had a play with my new rig which has a sandybridge 2500k chip i got it second hand..lapped as well as cpu block [corsair hydro100] i have it at 5.0ghtz with vcore 1.455 and my tamps are good at around 67degrees thats under load running intel burn test, prime 95 it hits around 64degrees and all now seems stable. At idle the cpu is around 30degrees. My question is as long as the cpu is kept pretty cool is it reasonably safe to run the chip at this overclock.
I just wonder if a higher vcore is ok as long as the temps dont get silly? I know people watercool [full loops] on their systems i just want to understand the point of it, is it a case of they can run a higher vcore and get away with it as they have better cooling or is it just for show ? I know you should not go above 1.35v but i am trying to understand why the cpu has this cut off point.. is it set in stone regardless of low temps and that damage will happen putting higher voltage through it.

cheers


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Just a little advice from any overclockers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have had a play with my new rig which has a sandybridge 2500k chip i got it second hand..lapped as well as cpu block [corsair hydro100] i have it at 5.0ghtz with vcore 1.455 and my tamps are good at around 67degrees thats under load running intel burn test, prime 95 it hits around 64degrees and all now seems stable. At idle the cpu is around 30degrees. My question is as long as the cpu is kept pretty cool is it reasonably safe to run the chip at this overclock.
> I just wonder if a higher vcore is ok as long as the temps dont get silly? I know people watercool [full loops] on their systems i just want to understand the point of it, is it a case of they can run a higher vcore and get away with it as they have better cooling or is it just for show ? I know you should not go above 1.35v but i am trying to understand why the cpu has this cut off point.. is it set in stone regardless of low temps and that damage will happen putting higher voltage through it.
> cheers


I'm no pro, but I think it has to do with overloading the CPU chip with volts - almost like overloading a battery, and the capacitors. Temps, are obviously the biggest problem with going with high voltages, but I'm pretty sure ëlectric wise" there might be a problem. I could be talking rubbish, but, from my basic understanding, that's what I would conclude.

Remember the volts are being used within the processor, and being passed through those mini capacitors.


----------



## Denzo

Hi Guys, i have a little issue i cant figure out on my own.

I recently finished my build and im starting the overclock process but ive hit a snag:

I cant get past 43x Multiplier... I can input whichever multiplier i want, but when i boot up with 44x or higher, CPUID / AIDA, you name it, shows 43x... Another strange side effect is that the CPU Voltage listed in the UEFI dissapears when rebooting (the voltage listed next to the "Offset / Manual" button.

Specs:
3770K - De-Lidded / watercooled
Sabertooth Z77 with the latest Bios

Settings:
C3/C6 Off
XMP @ 2400 Mhz
Offset mode set to " - ", value set to 0.025
LLC at Ultra

Any thoughts on why i cant go past 43?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm no pro, but I think it has to do with overloading the CPU chip with volts - almost like overloading a battery, and the capacitors. Temps, are obviously the biggest problem with going with high voltages, but I'm pretty sure ëlectric wise" there might be a problem. I could be talking rubbish, but, from my basic understanding, that's what I would conclude.
> Remember the volts are being used within the processor, and being passed through those mini capacitors.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Just a little advice from any overclockers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have had a play with my new rig which has a sandybridge 2500k chip i got it second hand..lapped as well as cpu block [corsair hydro100] i have it at 5.0ghtz with vcore 1.455 and my tamps are good at around 67degrees thats under load running intel burn test, prime 95 it hits around 64degrees and all now seems stable. At idle the cpu is around 30degrees. My question is as long as the cpu is kept pretty cool is it reasonably safe to run the chip at this overclock.
> I just wonder if a higher vcore is ok as long as the temps dont get silly? I know people watercool [full loops] on their systems i just want to understand the point of it, is it a case of they can run a higher vcore and get away with it as they have better cooling or is it just for show ? I know you should not go above 1.35v but i am trying to understand why the cpu has this cut off point.. is it set in stone regardless of low temps and that damage will happen putting higher voltage through it.
> cheers


I'm no expert either, but my understanding is that regardless of what Vcore/Clock you run a processor at, there will be degradation. You've got about a billion transistors "opening & closing" in a very small surface area, and regardless of how cool you run it, it will degrade at some rate, whatever that may be. Now that might mean that at .9v your 2500K at a low clock speed would run for an extremely long time before any major degradation occurred. The only reason Intel specs a max voltage for any processor is that it corresponds to the max voltage a CPU can sustain and still outlast their warranty period.

Check out this article, a little dated, but straightforward.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2468/6


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> Hi Guys, i have a little issue i cant figure out on my own.
> 
> I recently finished my build and im starting the overclock process but ive hit a snag:
> 
> I cant get past 43x Multiplier... I can input whichever multiplier i want, but when i boot up with 44x or higher, CPUID / AIDA, you name it, shows 43x... Another strange side effect is that the CPU Voltage listed in the UEFI dissapears when rebooting (the voltage listed next to the "Offset / Manual" button.
> 
> Specs:
> 3770K - De-Lidded / watercooled
> Sabertooth Z77 with the latest Bios
> 
> Settings:
> C3/C6 Off
> XMP @ 2400 Mhz
> Offset mode set to " - ", value set to 0.025
> LLC at Ultra
> 
> Any thoughts on why i cant go past 43?


I haven't had any luck with offset. I set my 4.5GHz @ 1.3vcore. I have a 3570K, you should be able to do better with that 3770K.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> I haven't had any luck with offset. I set my 4.5GHz @ 1.3vcore. I have a 3570K, you should be able to do better with that 3770K.


I'm at 4.5ghz myself - see my bios settings with the i7 3770K
(I don't need more than 4.5 lol - temps go soaring high on ivy's)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> I'm n
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/2468/6


banging cheers for that!


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexw*
> 
> hey guys, i was looking through some of the old posts and couldnt see anything that might help. this is my first build and Im having some trouble. i put all the parts together but when i try booting it up, the system starts, the fans turn on but then it shuts down and then restarts after a few seconds.
> heres my build:
> Case: NZXT Phantom 410
> Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
> Processor: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz
> Graphics: Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
> RAM: 2x Kingston HyperX Blu Red Series 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (KHX16C10B1R/8 HDD):
> HDD: Seagate Constellation ES 1 TB
> Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
> Other:
> Power Supply Thermaltake TPG-650M Toughpower Grand GOLD 650W ATX
> anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?


for me it was the Intel bundled Fan same processor as me. A lot more reliable with 1616 but still not perfect until i replaced it with hyper 212 until i can go hydro ...maybe ! Also change the low speed of CPU fan in controller settings default is 600 and I get the feeling the intel fan doesnt boot/speed up quick enough. Good luck keep us posted.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I had the 1st issue you mentioned
> 
> to fix it
> 
> GO to advanced
> BOOT
> all the way down there is Hard Drive BBS Priorities
> Click that and make sure Boot Option 1 is your hdd or ssd that you have WINDOWS on
> 
> Than go back to the BOOT scren
> 
> Right above HDD Drive BBS Priorities there is Boot Option Priorities
> 
> Make sure either Boot Option 1 or 2 is that SSD or HDD you have Windows on as well.


also make sure its not in the ASmedia sata ports use the ones at the top nearest the Mem test light


----------



## martian1

I did a basic overclock just using simple guides anyone know of a more detailed way to overclock i basically want to see if it is possible to maintain the high overclock but reduce the vcore to around 1.35-1.4 i know it may not be possible and the chip just needs a lot of voltage to run at 5ghtz but i would like to see if it is possible to reduce it and maintain the overclock. I will be generally running around 4.5ghtz as i can keep the vcore at a safer level but it would be nice to see if its possible.


----------



## cris77

hi all
new bios
BIOS 1708 released November 16, 2012
http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=10&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1708.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1708.zip


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> hi all
> new bios
> BIOS 1708 released November 16, 2012
> http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=10&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1708.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1708.zip


+rep

Will flash soon.

EDIT:
Flashed.

It is funny how I install AI suite 2 just to flash the bios, then uninstall it lol









Is there any way of preserving BIOS settings out of interest?
As My BIOS gets wiped, so I have to re-do the settings, nothing major but just a niggle.


----------



## iARDAs

I am on 1506. Didnt update to the last one either. I will probably flash to this 1708 one.


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cris77*
> 
> hi all
> new bios
> BIOS 1708 released November 16, 2012
> http://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=39&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&os=10&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1708.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1708.zip


Thanks for that, just flashed and tried the 45x multiplier setup and it now works!
Finishing up the load test in Aida64 and so far im really impressed!

45x Multiplier
C3 / C6 off
- 0.025v Offset
LLC Ultra

Gives me:
0.928v Idle
1.232v Load
Temps from HWMonitor and Realtemp by core at load 1h into testing:
38, 40, 37, 35c

Will be pushing it more tomorrow and provide some pictures


----------



## Denzo

Side note - The 3770K has been de-lidded and now has Liquid Pro under the hood.

highly recommended!

1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler yielded 91-95C in realtemp!!
1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler de-lid with Liquid Pro yielded 41-47c in realtemp!

For a 20min job and a few bucks for the liquid pro, that is a awesome result! and after completing the waterloop the results are just ridiculous!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> Side note - The 3770K has been de-lidded and now has Liquid Pro under the hood.
> 
> highly recommended!
> 
> 1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler yielded 91-95C in realtemp!!
> 1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler de-lid with Liquid Pro yielded 41-47c in realtemp!
> 
> For a 20min job and a few bucks for the liquid pro, that is a awesome result! and after completing the waterloop the results are just ridiculous!


Yep. *Denzo* is correct. Delidding makes an IB into the chip it ought to have always been. No more temp issues - but still have vcore limits. There is a OCN club link on my sig for good info on how to do it correctly if you are interested.

*I have bought a new sabertooth Z77* - The install went real smooth and I'm checking out the board's abilities.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








One issues I am working through - *I am failing memtest with all 16GB* (4x4GB) populating all the slots, yet I can get each stick to run in each slot without any errors. (Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866 9-9-9-27 2T )

Also 8GB works in either A1/A2 or B1/B2. Only have mem errors with all slots full. All 16GB still work fine in other Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 board. I have also tried a 3570K and a 3770K to verify it's not the IMC.

Any issues like this encounterd with this board? I really hope I do not need to RMA it, so maybe someone here has ideas on BIOS adjustments or other ideas?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> Side note - The 3770K has been de-lidded and now has Liquid Pro under the hood.
> highly recommended!
> 1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler yielded 91-95C in realtemp!!
> 1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler de-lid with Liquid Pro yielded 41-47c in realtemp!
> For a 20min job and a few bucks for the liquid pro, that is a awesome result! and after completing the waterloop the results are just ridiculous!


have any delid pics?


----------



## jackbrennan2008

I reported a problem with this board to ASUS.

Simply put: I had to have my GTX580 in PCIe slot 2 for it to work properly with my i5-3570K. The first slot would work sometimes, but other times i would be met with a blank screen after windows loaded. This problem didn't occur if i used a 2600k on the same board.

As a reply to my support request they said they would be pushing out a new BIOS to fix the issue, so i'm crossing my fingers that 1708 does the job







.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackbrennan2008*
> 
> I reported a problem with this board to ASUS.
> Simply put: I had to have my GTX580 in PCIe slot 2 for it to work properly with my i5-3570K. The first slot would work sometimes, but other times i would be met with a blank screen after windows loaded. This problem didn't occur if i used a 2600k on the same board.
> As a reply to my support request they said they would be pushing out a new BIOS to fix the issue, so i'm crossing my fingers that 1708 does the job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


have had same problem. crossfire 6970s and sometimes the screen blanks, however, if i plug monitor to the other card it works again. weird. comes and goes. not sure what causes it. slots arent bad i know that because i tested, but maybe they have spurts or flickers of "dead"ness...


----------



## jackbrennan2008

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> have had same problem. crossfire 6970s and sometimes the screen blanks, however, if i plug monitor to the other card it works again. weird. comes and goes. not sure what causes it. slots arent bad i know that because i tested, but maybe they have spurts or flickers of "dead"ness...


In my case it's a problem between the motherboard and the CPU(3570K). The problem doesn't arrise if i use an older 2600k from another machine in the same motherboard.

My guess is that it's either:

1. A conflict with PCIe 3.0 and PCIe 2.0 that the motherboard isn't handling
2. A conflict with the newer HD4000 GPU.
3. Small bug in the BIOS which needs to be resolved.

It's hard to say, but it's definately a software issue as both the motherboard and CPU and GPU are perfectly fine.

So i'm going to try the lates BIOS and find out


----------



## iARDAs

Dear i5 3570k users with our Z77s, I could never manage to go above 4.2 so I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to tell me how they can get 4.5 or similar in their UEFI?

Screenshots or explanations on the things adjusted on the UEFI will be appreciated a lot.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> Side note - The 3770K has been de-lidded and now has Liquid Pro under the hood.
> highly recommended!
> 1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler yielded 91-95C in realtemp!!
> 1 hour on BF3 with stock CPU, stock frequencies and stock cooler de-lid with Liquid Pro yielded 41-47c in realtemp!
> For a 20min job and a few bucks for the liquid pro, that is a awesome result! and after completing the waterloop the results are just ridiculous!


95C on stock settings?

The testing I have seen produced results nothing like that in before and after.

Are you seriously suggesting you got a 45 degree drop in core temperatures?

I find that very hard to believe.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 95C on stock settings?
> The testing I have seen produced results nothing like that in before and after.
> Are you seriously suggesting you got a 45 degree drop in core temperatures?
> I find that very hard to believe.


I would think that's max load vs idle...but I can't say. I know my max is around 92c on full load.

As for pcwargamers question:
Have you tried relaxing the timings and increasing the voltage for the ram?
It shouldn't be failing memtest.
Also are you sure your ram isn't faulty?
God forbid that it's your imc...


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> have any delid pics?




Ive only got a picture of it done, not the process it self, but the tools are all shown... Razor with some tape on it to not rip the fingers apart...

Ive heard people have a 5 min job doing this, and some 1 hour... depending on your CPU and how tighly the lid hugs the pcb... mine was fairly tight and it took me around 25 minutes including cleaning and applying Liquid Pro


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Yep. *Denzo* is correct. Delidding makes an IB into the chip it ought to have always been. No more temp issues - but still have vcore limits. There is a OCN club link on my sig for good info on how to do it correctly if you are interested.
> *I have bought a new sabertooth Z77* - The install went real smooth and I'm checking out the board's abilities.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One issues I am working through - *I am failing memtest with all 16GB* (4x4GB) populating all the slots, yet I can get each stick to run in each slot without any errors. (Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866 9-9-9-27 2T )
> Also 8GB works in either A1/A2 or B1/B2. Only have mem errors with all slots full. All 16GB still work fine in other Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 board. I have also tried a 3570K and a 3770K to verify it's not the IMC.
> Any issues like this encounterd with this board? I really hope I do not need to RMA it, so maybe someone here has ideas on BIOS adjustments or other ideas?


I have had no issues at all with that... i did need to RMA one board due to a missing CPU pin! but other than that, its good... ive got 4x4gb Corsair Dominator Platinum in it right now with XMP activated running at 2400... dont remeber the CAS of the top of my head but i have not done any modifications to the setup other than enabling XMP


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 95C on stock settings?
> The testing I have seen produced results nothing like that in before and after.
> Are you seriously suggesting you got a 45 degree drop in core temperatures?
> I find that very hard to believe.


I was shocked myself. After battlefielding for a solid hour or two, exited back into windows and the Asus Suite temp warning popped up saying "CPU at 71c"... knowing the TJM on IB is 105 i thought that warning was uneccesary, so i let it cool down, loaded realtemp and HWMonitor, went back into BF3 and had more fun... 1 hour later, exited, temp warning popped up at 71c, jumped into HWM and RT and they both showed max temps at 91 - 95C! at stock settings on stock cooler and stock TIM...

Then it was de-lid, liquid pro and Gelid Xtreme TIM on stock cooler just to check and after 1 hour of BF3 the max temps was in the mid 40`s range...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> I was shocked myself. After battlefielding for a solid hour or two, exited back into windows and the Asus Suite temp warning popped up saying "CPU at 71c"... knowing the TJM on IB is 105 i thought that warning was uneccesary, so i let it cool down, loaded realtemp and HWMonitor, went back into BF3 and had more fun... 1 hour later, exited, temp warning popped up at 71c, jumped into HWM and RT and they both showed max temps at 91 - 95C! at stock settings on stock cooler and stock TIM...
> Then it was de-lid, liquid pro and Gelid Xtreme TIM on stock cooler just to check and after 1 hour of BF3 the max temps was in the mid 40`s range...


just a few things my man:
1. don't trust aisuiteII for temp readings.
I got 127c on my motherboard, and over 80c for CPU (both being wrong readings)

2. the MOTHERBOARD temps are different from your core/real temp levels.
One is telling you the temp on your motherboard, the other is telling you the temp on your chip.
That's why 45c vs 90c is hard to believe.
I think your getting the 45c from your motherboard readings (as they are cooler) and the 90c readings from core temp.

To get real readings, open real temp or core temp, run p95 for 30mins, then let us know the temps with screenshots.

BF3 doesn't make my pc hot at all - max 55-60c.
P95 on the other hand 92c


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> just a few things my man:
> 1. don't trust aisuiteII for temp readings.
> I got 127c on my motherboard, and over 80c for CPU (both being wrong readings)
> 2. the MOTHERBOARD temps are different from your core/real temp levels.
> One is telling you the temp on your motherboard, the other is telling you the temp on your chip.
> That's why 45c vs 90c is hard to believe.
> I think your getting the 45c from your motherboard readings (as they are cooler) and the 90c readings from core temp.
> To get real readings, open real temp or core temp, run p95 for 30mins, then let us know the temps with screenshots.
> BF3 doesn't make my pc hot at all - max 55-60c.
> P95 on the other hand 92c


I know AISuite shows wrong, i just said that. The only thing it made me do was un install it and use realtemp and HWmonitor. As i said, AI Suite gave me a warning stating 71C when at the same time RT and HWN showed 91-95...

Im doing load testing right now with water cooling and a 47x multiplier and my hottest core is on 43C through HWMonitor


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> just a few things my man:
> 1. don't trust aisuiteII for temp readings.
> I got 127c on my motherboard, and over 80c for CPU (both being wrong readings)
> 2. the MOTHERBOARD temps are different from your core/real temp levels.
> One is telling you the temp on your motherboard, the other is telling you the temp on your chip.
> That's why 45c vs 90c is hard to believe.
> I think your getting the 45c from your motherboard readings (as they are cooler) and the 90c readings from core temp.
> To get real readings, open real temp or core temp, run p95 for 30mins, then let us know the temps with screenshots.
> BF3 doesn't make my pc hot at all - max 55-60c.
> P95 on the other hand 92c


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> ]


this is on full load? Whilst p95 is running?
Regardless, as long as you're happy with it, that's all that matters - I was just curious as de-lidding doesn't help with 45c differences...


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> this is on full load? Whilst p95 is running?
> Regardless, as long as you're happy with it, that's all that matters - I was just curious as de-lidding doesn't help with 45c differences...


No worries. Im not making this stuff up, but i dont have pics from before de-lid either so you will either just take my word for it or not









This is not P95, its only chicken Aida 64 load testing for now... i know its not the uber software for stress testing and im just trying to see how far i can go on it... after reaching my max on Aida i will revert to around 43x and work my way up on p95.

btw, have you heard anyone had their chip broken on p95? i saw the Newegg video with the asus guy telling people NOT to test on p95 or IBT on the IB chip due to incompatability with various instruction sets and so on? i did run p95 and IBT at 43x just fine with low temps and not to much vCore, but im reluctant to try it on higher clocks until i know more about the so called issues...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> No worries. Im not making this stuff up, but i dont have pics from before de-lid either so you will either just take my word for it or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not P95, its only chicken Aida 64 load testing for now... i know its not the uber software for stress testing and im just trying to see how far i can go on it... after reaching my max on Aida i will revert to around 43x and work my way up on p95.
> btw, have you heard anyone had their chip broken on p95? i saw the Newegg video with the asus guy telling people NOT to test on p95 or IBT on the IB chip due to incompatability with various instruction sets and so on? i did run p95 and IBT at 43x just fine with low temps and not to much vCore, but im reluctant to try it on higher clocks until i know more about the so called issues...


never heard of that.
Although I've read of people breaking their chips by de-lidding and also trying insane OC's and burning their chips


----------



## WivZ

hey guys, I just installed my new corsair vengeance RAM (CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R) and what bother me is my AI Suite II shows me that my RAM's max region is only 667MHz? not 1866MHz?



one more thing, instead of 8.00gb, my System shows me that my installed memory is 7.95gb.. Its supposed to be 8.00gb right?



I'm kinda new with this computer thingy so I need help from you guys. Thanks!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As for pcwargamers question:
> Have you tried relaxing the timings and increasing the voltage for the ram?
> It shouldn't be failing memtest.
> Also are you sure your ram isn't faulty?
> God forbid that it's your imc...


Thanks for your sugestions *Totally Dubbed*.

1) I will try relaxing the timings, but I don't want to have to do that as I'd hoped to do so only when I OC the Ram. They should work at normal timings, and these do work at XMP timings good at 8GB (A1/A2 or B1/B2) on this board - and all 16GB at regular timings on other board. I just ran the 8GB tests again last night (A's then B's) for 6hrs each and they passed, and then put all 16GB back again this morning and one error so far in less than an hour.

2) Ram is good - except as 16GB on this one board. Ram tests good as single sticks and 8GB pairs on this board, and all 16GB in another board.

3) Can't be IMC as the same IMC was on the other board (moved cpu) and I have also tried using both a 3570K and a 3770K on this board and the other board.

4) I have tried three different BIOS's too - 1206, 1616, and 1708 - after flashing it last night and retesting (hoping so much that that would be the fix!)

So, I'm guessing I may have to return it or RMA it which is a big bummer. Further suggestions are welcome! (...if there is anything else I can do that I have missed....)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> hey guys, I just installed my new http://www.corsair.com/vengeance-8gb-dual-channel-
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ddr3-memory-kit-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9r.html]corsair vengeance RAM (CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R)[/URL] and what bother me is my AI Suite II shows me that my RAM' speed is only 667MHz? not 1866MHz?
> 
> one more thing, instead of 8.00gb, my System shows me that my installed memory is 7.95gb.. Its supposed to be 8.00gb right?
> 
> I'm kinda new with this computer thingy so I need help from you guys. Thanks
> 
> 
> !


maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong - but that's for each channel.
As mine is dual channel it is 800x2 = 1600mhz

You tried - looking if you are on auto or set frequency in your bios?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Thanks for your sugestions *Totally Dubbed*.
> 1) I will try relaxing the timings, but I don't want to have to do that as I'd hoped to do so only when I OC the Ram. They should work at normal timings, and these do work at XMP timings good at 8GB (A1/A2 or B1/B2) on this board - and all 16GB at regular timings on other board. I just ran the 8GB tests again last night (A's then B's) for 6hrs each and they passed, and then put all 16GB back again this morning and one error so far in less than an hour.
> 2) Ram is good - except as 16GB on this one board. Ram tests good as single sticks and 8GB pairs on this board, and all 16GB in another board.
> 3) Can't be IMC as the same IMC was on the other board (moved cpu) and I have also tried using both a 3570K and a 3770K on this board and the other board.
> 4) I have tried three different BIOS's too - 1206, 1616, and 1708 - after flashing it last night and retesting (hoping so much that that would be the fix!)
> So, I'm guessing I may have to return it or RMA it which is a big bummer. Further suggestions are welcome! (...if there is anything else I can do that I have missed....)


1) Fair enough, and I can understand where you are coming from, but to determine the problem, try leaving it on auto
2) Could well be motherboard related then
3) Well that's some sort of relief I guess
4) Good that you are trying the different bios'

I would highly siggest prime'ing it.
Now you might think I'm crazy - but I had to RMA ram very recently.
Long story short is:
-p95 would pick it up instantly, IBT would pick it up every now and then, memtest after a solid 11hrs with the "supposedly faulty module" passed 20 times, and didn't fail
-I RMA'ed it anyway, as each time i put the 1 ram module in it would fail - the company got it, memtested it, and it failed within minutes, yet mine passed in 11hrs.
-Long story short then, p95 is my benchmark for stability and reliability. I don't trust memtest nor IBT no more, just off my experience.
Now that I RMA'ed the ram, i have no problems and I'm running stable on my 4.5ghz OC on 16GB ram

What I'm trying to say is, before dealing with the dreaded asus, try seeing if it is the RAM - as that's easier to test and see.
I spent over 1-2weeks testing, and finally thought to RMA it - i went maybe a little over-board testing, but I knew 100% it was the ram after that much testing.
Similarly with you, you can be 100% sure before RMA'ing the board.
For my corsair ram it was painless, and if i was wrong, i would have lost only £10 for pick-up charges, however with asus....i've dealt with them before and it is an absolute nightmare (you might be without a board for over 2-3weeks, and more so they might not even do their job properly, as they are useless)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> No worries. Im not making this stuff up, but i dont have pics from before de-lid either so you will either just take my word for it or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not P95, its only chicken Aida 64 load testing for now... i know its not the uber software for stress testing and im just trying to see how far i can go on it... after reaching my max on Aida i will revert to around 43x and work my way up on p95.
> btw, have you heard anyone had their chip broken on p95? i saw the Newegg video with the asus guy telling people NOT to test on p95 or IBT on the IB chip due to incompatability with various instruction sets and so on? i did run p95 and IBT at 43x just fine with low temps and not to much vCore, but im reluctant to try it on higher clocks until i know more about the so called issues...


Well something is not making sense. The sort of changes you are talking about would be a world first by several orders of magnitude compared to what others have gotten.

You must have had a bad mount in your original test because it should never have been that hot at stock volts and freqs. Otherwise the chip would have been well and truly thermal throttling running P95 at stock volts ... the stock coolers are bad, but no where near that bad.

My CPU sits at mid 50's when I use the low stress CPU tests too. What ambient temperature is the computer exposed to? Because from the minimums on your screenshot of 20C ? Your system would have to be idleing at very very close to ambient temperature unless your room is damn cold., and that is practically unheard of.


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong - but that's for each channel.
> As mine is dual channel it is 800x2 = 1600mhz
> You tried - looking if you are on auto or set frequency in your bios?


I'm sorry but can you explain about that a little bit more? Honestly, my knowledge about RAM is.... zero


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> hey guys, I just installed my new corsair vengeance RAM (CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R) and what bother me is my AI Suite II shows me that my RAM's max region is only 667MHz? not 1866MHz?
> 
> one more thing, instead of 8.00gb, my System shows me that my installed memory is 7.95gb.. Its supposed to be 8.00gb right?
> 
> I'm kinda new with this computer thingy so I need help from you guys. Thanks!


Your ammount of ram shown in windows is fine ... Mine shows 7.88GB usable when I have 8Gb installed.

The memory timing you are seeing is the SPD default for each channel. You have Dual Channel board so 667 x 2 = 1333Mhz, All RAM made today will start set at its SPD default of 1333MHz

What you need to do is go into the BIOS and enable the XMP memory timing profile ... you can see it in the bottom section of your screen shot labled XMP-1866

EDIT: Actually scratch that ... I just checked and my software shows the same. The Asus software only shows the SPD default values in that section because its just a system info app to show you what is installed in your computer. It will display that no matter what settings you have.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> I'm sorry but can you explain about that a little bit more? Honestly, my knowledge about RAM is.... zero


mine isn' much either dude - just thought to show u, that I'm on 1600, yet I get the same displayed via CPU-Z - my theory is that it is the last 800 then x2, thus meaning 1600mhz for me


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 1) Fair enough, and I can understand where you are coming from, but to determine the problem, try leaving it on auto
> 2) Could well be motherboard related then
> 3) Well that's some sort of relief I guess
> 4) Good that you are trying the different bios'
> 
> I would highly siggest prime'ing it.
> Now you might think I'm crazy - but I had to RMA ram very recently.
> Long story short is:
> -p95 would pick it up instantly, IBT would pick it up every now and then, memtest after a solid 11hrs with the "supposedly faulty module" passed 20 times, and didn't fail
> -I RMA'ed it anyway, as each time i put the 1 ram module in it would fail - the company got it, memtested it, and it failed within minutes, yet mine passed in 11hrs.
> -Long story short then, p95 is my benchmark for stability and reliability. I don't trust memtest nor IBT no more, just off my experience.
> Now that I RMA'ed the ram, i have no problems and I'm running stable on my 4.5ghz OC on 16GB ram
> 
> What I'm trying to say is, before dealing with the dreaded asus, try seeing if it is the RAM - as that's easier to test and see.
> I spent over 1-2weeks testing, and finally thought to RMA it - i went maybe a little over-board testing, but I knew 100% it was the ram after that much testing.
> Similarly with you, you can be 100% sure before RMA'ing the board.
> For my corsair ram it was painless, and if i was wrong, i would have lost only £10 for pick-up charges, however with asus....i've dealt with them before and it is an absolute nightmare (you might be without a board for over 2-3weeks, and more so they might not even do their job properly, as they are useless)


You are so right *Totally Dubbed* about priming it - and that is where I first encountered the problem. I was doing some prime95 stability testing soon after getting the board to verify it had no problems, and prime kept dying no matter what vcore or other settings I'd use.

Like you, I knew something was not right if I can't prime, so I started to test memory right away and found the memtest failures. I'll try auto and see if that works.

No other error since the first one so far this morning with 16GB, so they are close, but only need one mem error to make system unstable and stop prime runs.....

And, I really want to avoid talking to Asus too!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> hey guys, I just installed my new corsair vengeance RAM (CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R) and what bother me is my AI Suite II shows me that my RAM's max region is only 667MHz? not 1866MHz?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one more thing, instead of 8.00gb, my System shows me that my installed memory is 7.95gb.. Its supposed to be 8.00gb right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm kinda new with this computer thingy so I need help from you guys. Thanks!


On the mem, you will see the "XMP-1866" at the middle right of the first pic and then the "933 MHz" - that lets you know you are running at 1866 (2x933=1866) - its the way they show it as they double clock the chips. So you are OK.

Also, windows showing the 7.95GB is fine too as there are more than one way to note 8GB. Windows shows usable space as is uses memory while the physical memory is really 8GB. So your good there too!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> You are so right *Totally Dubbed* about priming it - and that is where I first encountered the problem. I was doing some prime95 stability testing soon after getting the board to verify it had no problems, and prime kept dying no matter what vcore or other settings I'd use.
> Like you, I knew something was not right if I can't prime, so I started to test memory right away and found the memtest failures. I'll try auto and see if that works.
> No other error since the first one so far this morning with 16GB, so they are close, but only need one mem error to make system unstable and stop prime runs.....
> And, I really want to avoid talking to Asus too!


remember to check the 2 options in advanced in p95 - it will bring out rounding errors - and if you get rounding errors -> Bad RAM basically.

Actually what errors do u get in p95?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The Noctua fan as mentioned earlier


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> You are so right *Totally Dubbed* about priming it - and that is where I first encountered the problem. I was doing some prime95 stability testing soon after getting the board to verify it had no problems, and prime kept dying no matter what vcore or other settings I'd use.
> Like you, I knew something was not right if I can't prime, so I started to test memory right away and found the memtest failures. I'll try auto and see if that works.
> No other error since the first one so far this morning with 16GB, so they are close, but only need one mem error to make system unstable and stop prime runs.....
> And, I really want to avoid talking to Asus too!
> 
> 
> 
> remember to check the 2 options in advanced in p95 - it will bring out rounding errors - and if you get rounding errors -> Bad RAM basically.
> 
> Actually what errors do u get in p95?
Click to expand...

I was running it blend (default option three). Prime would cause system to reboot as I would come back the next morining and find that the system had rebooted sometime during the night.

Other issue I found, besides the prime failure above, was with IBT intermittently failing no matter the vcore or settings too. So Mem issue was showing itself in both stress tests.

IBT runs fine with 8GB, but have only done short prime runs on the 8GB so far. But these ram on the other board _were_ prime stable (custom blend with 90% mem) for 18+ hours and still pass memtest on it now.

It is worth testing 8GB (A's and B's) with some prime to see if they pass that - but all this memory and prime testing always takes soooo long to do.....and I really just want to play some games! LOL

Ok, back to testing.....


----------



## WivZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Your ammount of ram shown in windows is fine ... Mine shows 7.88GB usable when I have 8Gb installed.
> The memory timing you are seeing is the SPD default for each channel. You have Dual Channel board so 667 x 2 = 1333Mhz, All RAM made today will start set at its SPD default of 1333MHz
> What you need to do is go into the BIOS and enable the XMP memory timing profile ... you can see it in the bottom section of your screen shot labled XMP-1866
> EDIT: Actually scratch that ... I just checked and my software shows the same. The Asus software only shows the SPD default values in that section because its just a system info app to show you what is installed in your computer. It will display that no matter what settings you have.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> mine isn' much either dude - just thought to show u, that I'm on 1600, yet I get the same displayed via CPU-Z - my theory is that it is the last 800 then x2, thus meaning 1600mhz for me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> On the mem, you will see the "XMP-1866" at the middle right of the first pic and then the "933 MHz" - that lets you know you are running at 1866 (2x933=1866) - its the way they show it as they double clock the chips. So you are OK.
> Also, windows showing the 7.95GB is fine too as there are more than one way to note 8GB. Windows shows usable space as is uses memory while the physical memory is really 8GB. So your good there too!


I see.. I'm glad I have no problem with my new ram. Today I learned something new from you guys. Thank you very much!!







I love this community ^^


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well something is not making sense. The sort of changes you are talking about would be a world first by several orders of magnitude compared to what others have gotten.
> You must have had a bad mount in your original test because it should never have been that hot at stock volts and freqs. Otherwise the chip would have been well and truly thermal throttling running P95 at stock volts ... the stock coolers are bad, but no where near that bad.
> My CPU sits at mid 50's when I use the low stress CPU tests too. What ambient temperature is the computer exposed to? Because from the minimums on your screenshot of 20C ? Your system would have to be idleing at very very close to ambient temperature unless your room is damn cold., and that is practically unheard of.


It might have been a bad mount or bad spread of the stock tim, maybe even both, resulting in the ridiculous temps... Come to think of it, i did not consider that at all!
All i know is what RealTemp and HWMonitor reported which i posted above.

I do know that a de-lid is not the miracle cure of all time, i expected nothing else than a 10-15c decrease in temps from the stock under-lid tim as 90% of the people doing the procedure reported back.
Which is no small feat, its actually rather impressive! But yeah, as mentioned, it could be a bad mount resulting in the high temps. Temps where mid 40`s after de-lid and with Gelid Extreme TIM under the cooler


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> hey guys, I just installed my new corsair vengeance RAM (CMZ8GX3M2A1866C9R) and what bother me is my AI Suite II shows me that my RAM's max region is only 667MHz? not 1866MHz?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> one more thing, instead of 8.00gb, my System shows me that my installed memory is 7.95gb.. Its supposed to be 8.00gb right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm kinda new with this computer thingy so I need help from you guys. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> On the mem, you will see the "XMP-1866" at the middle right of the first pic and then the "933 MHz" - that lets you know you are running at 1866 (2x933=1866) - its the way they show it as they double clock the chips. So you are OK.
> 
> Also, windows showing the 7.95GB is fine too as there are more than one way to note 8GB. Windows shows usable space as is uses memory while the physical memory is really 8GB. So your good there too!
Click to expand...

Here is a pic of my system with 16GB - it shows up as 16GB in Windows Sys Inf, but more than 16GB in CPU-Z (16.384GBz), and then timing screen in Asus AI Suite II sys inf shows the same as yours while showing 934 in CPU-Z (933x2=1866).



Also, it is good to have some other progams to use for system information besides just Windows or AI Suite -> CPU-Z, HWMonitor, HWInfo, GPU_Z, are some good starts at doing so. Just google and download them.

So you are running 8GB at 1866. No problem.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> [IMG
> The Noctua fan as mentioned earlier


I have to be honest, they are ugly for my liking :/
But thanks for sharing the pic!
What about the middle slot, what have you done with it?
And how's the overall volume of the fans?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I was running it blend (default option three). Prime would cause system to reboot as I would come back the next morining and find that the system had rebooted sometime during the night.
> Other issue I found, besides the prime failure above, was with IBT intermittently failing no matter the vcore or settings too. So Mem issue was showing itself in both stress tests.
> IBT runs fine with 8GB, but have only done short prime runs on the 8GB so far. But these ram on the other board _were_ prime stable (custom blend with 90% mem) for 18+ hours and still pass memtest on it now.
> It is worth testing 8GB (A's and B's) with some prime to see if they pass that - but all this memory and prime testing always takes soooo long to do.....and I really just want to play some games! LOL
> Ok, back to testing.....


Here's what I suggest with your testing - if you are testing for ram quickly:



If you want "stability" then go for 15min intervals - but for quick testing, 5 min ffts should be fast/good enough
Also don't forget to use 90% of your ram (which a normal blend doesn't do)

Also, those two options are the ones you need to use, in order to find the rounding errors, which are often lead to ram problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WivZ*
> 
> I see.. I'm glad I have no problem with my new ram. Today I learned something new from you guys. Thank you very much!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this community ^^


Pleasure!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Here is a pic of my system with 16GB - it shows up as 16GB in Windows Sys Inf, but more than 16GB in CPU-Z (16.384GBz), and then timing screen in Asus AI Suite II sys inf shows the same as yours while showing 934 in CPU-Z (933x2=1866).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it is good to have some other progams to use for system information besides just Windows or AI Suite -> CPU-Z, HWMonitor, HWInfo, GPU_Z, are some good starts at doing so. Just google and download them.
> So you are running 8GB at 1866. No problem.


Could you explain, why it is that number and not the others?
I'm curious to know why it is that one - and i guess my guess was right then, yay!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's what I suggest with your testing - if you are testing for ram quickly:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want "stability" then go for 15min intervals - but for quick testing, 5 min ffts should be fast/good enough
> Also don't forget to use 90% of your ram (which a normal blend doesn't do)
> 
> Also, those two options are the ones you need to use, in order to find the rounding errors, which are often lead to ram problems.
> 
> Could you explain, why it is that number and not the others?
> I'm curious to know why it is that one - and i guess my guess was right then, yay!


On the mem speed diff number question - the ram sticks are really running at the 800MHz or 933MHz clock rate, but they are double clocked so that they are effectively double the real psychical rate (800x2=1600 & 933x2=1866), so you were right.

The other diff in size has to do with how windows actually uses memory in blocks so that it wastes space in the end. You will also see this in hard drives where a 1TB drive will really show only ~930GB of usable space as an example.

On your prime suggestion, I have been doing the first part with 5min fft's & 92% mem on 16GB for over two hours without any problems, but did not do the SUM and Round off advance options. I will use them - thanks for the suggestion.

+Rep











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Oh oh, while posting this one of my threads just died......prime says "Hardware error detected"


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> On the mem speed diff number question - the ram sticks are really running at the 800MHz or 933MHz clock rate, but they are double clocked so that they are effectively double the real psychical rate (800x2=1600 & 933x2=1866), so you were right.
> The other diff in size has to do with how windows actually uses memory in blocks so that it wastes space in the end. You will also see this in hard drives where a 1TB drive will really show only ~930GB of usable space as an example.
> On your prime suggestion, I have been doing the first part with 5min fft's & 92% mem on 16GB for over two hours without any problems, but did not do the SUM and Round off advance options. I will use them - thanks for the suggestion.
> +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh oh, while posting this one of my threads just died......prime says "Hardware error detected"


+rep right back at you for the helpful post and explanation!

As for your OC - Go on stock, 3.5ghz with turbo - and then you'll easily figure it out - don't try hardware testing, whilst having an oc, and knowing there might be a problem








Harder to determine the problem like that.

The two options ticked, should quickly show you if there are any problems - if it fails within minutes and says rounding error - it is almost certainly the ram.
As for your failure right now - what did the exact prime thing say, and what FFT was it at?

ie mine used to be something like:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Self-test 18K passed!
[Sun Oct 07 20:25:56 2012]
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.



edit:
You must have edited your post as I was replying







!
Ok - could be ram related. I can't be sure - but try doing that sum thing, and more so, go to stock bios settings (with only your memory clocked to what it should be with the timings and tested speed)


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well something is not making sense. The sort of changes you are talking about would be a world first by several orders of magnitude compared to what others have gotten.
> You must have had a bad mount in your original test because it should never have been that hot at stock volts and freqs. Otherwise the chip would have been well and truly thermal throttling running P95 at stock volts ... the stock coolers are bad, but no where near that bad.
> My CPU sits at mid 50's when I use the low stress CPU tests too. What ambient temperature is the computer exposed to? Because from the minimums on your screenshot of 20C ? Your system would have to be idleing at very very close to ambient temperature unless your room is damn cold., and that is practically unheard of.
> 
> 
> 
> It might have been a bad mount or bad spread of the stock tim, maybe even both, resulting in the ridiculous temps... Come to think of it, i did not consider that at all!
> All i know is what RealTemp and HWMonitor reported which i posted above.
> 
> I do know that a de-lid is not the miracle cure of all time, i expected nothing else than a 10-15c decrease in temps from the stock under-lid tim as 90% of the people doing the procedure reported back.
> Which is no small feat, its actually rather impressive! But yeah, as mentioned, it could be a bad mount resulting in the high temps. Temps where mid 40`s after de-lid and with Gelid Extreme TIM under the cooler
Click to expand...

*Denzo*, I do think you had a mounting problem at first, but I also think you are getting much better temps due to the delidding too. It is not uncommon for delidding to result in 20-30C improvements in temps if done correctly.

OCN does have an official delidding club for those who are interested:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club

At this club we have gathered info from many forums to attempt to find the best (safest and most effective) ways to delid the IB chips - and most people on that thread get a 20-30C drop in temps between their before and after temps (as measured using Real Temp running default IBT 10x run at 4.5GHz before and after delid).

The best TIM we have found is Coollaboratory Pro or Ultra, and we have also found that the IHS's are often concave or convex and temps can sometimes improve further from lapping them.

An interesting finding is that _the IB temp problem is not mainly with Intel's TIM choice_, but instead due to the gap between the die and IHS caused by the black glue holding the IHS onto the PCB. Once the black glue and original TIM is removed the IHS will sit on the die - so that it can spin:



With the direct die to IHS contact, and the use of CL PRO or Ultra, most delidder's get the 20-30C result. Seems with other TIMs we are only finding the 10-15C result common on many other forums, and sometimes it ends up being the convex or concave IHS that needs to be lapped after delidding.

My own results after delidding and lapping my IHS has been 27C (see my photo galleries under delidding for pics and before and after temp testing).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

wow huge difference in temps!
I'm amazed!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As for your OC - Go on stock, 3.5ghz with turbo - and then you'll easily figure it out - don't try hardware testing, whilst having an oc, and knowing there might be a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder to determine the problem like that.
> 
> The two options ticked, should quickly show you if there are any problems - if it fails within minutes and says rounding error - it is almost certainly the ram.
> As for your failure right now - what did the exact prime thing say, and what FFT was it at?
> 
> ie mine used to be something like:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Self-test 18K passed!
> [Sun Oct 07 20:25:56 2012]
> FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
> Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> You must have edited your post as I was replying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Ok - could be ram related. I can't be sure - but try doing that sum thing, and more so, go to stock bios settings (with only your memory clocked to what it should be with the timings and tested speed)


Good ideas. I have tried memtest and prime at BIOS default 3.5GHz, but not with your prime advanced options suggestions.

I will try first 8GB pair that way when I go out tonight, and if the first pair work, then the next pair in the other slots for the rest of the night. Maybe learn if the 8GB pairs are really stable ot not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> wow huge difference in temps!
> I'm amazed!


If you have any IB temp issues, consider giving it a try. Very easy to do once you know how, and the results are great - the IBs finally run like they always should have after being delidded.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Well considering my temps won't ever go over 60c, as much as I see p95 @92c, that's not a real world scenario. So in other words, I rather not risk breaking or damaging a £255 processor


----------



## Z Overlord

so hows the new bios? Any negative feedback so far?


----------



## fereka

Hello.I just bought this motherboard and an i5 3750k.This is my first Intel system.I saw that this problem that i have is not new but i do not understand what to do.When i install the ram in A2 -B2 my system do not want to boot.I changed to A1-B1 and everything was ok.You have this problem when you install the memory for the first time?iDid you Rma this board for this thing? And another problem was when i want to stop a fan. My system freez for a second. My ram 2x4 corsair vengance cmz8gx3m2a1600c9,psu-chieftech 750w,samsung ssd ,gtx460.


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> *Denzo*, I do think you had a mounting problem at first, but I also think you are getting much better temps due to the delidding too. It is not uncommon for delidding to result in 20-30C improvements in temps if done correctly.
> OCN does have an official delidding club for those who are interested:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club
> At this club we have gathered info from many forums to attempt to find the best (safest and most effective) ways to delid the IB chips - and most people on that thread get a 20-30C drop in temps between their before and after temps (as measured using Real Temp running default IBT 10x run at 4.5GHz before and after delid).
> The best TIM we have found is Coollaboratory Pro or Ultra, and we have also found that the IHS's are often concave or convex and temps can sometimes improve further from lapping them.
> An interesting finding is that _the IB temp problem is not mainly with Intel's TIM choice_, but instead due to the gap between the die and IHS caused by the black glue holding the IHS onto the PCB. Once the black glue and original TIM is removed the IHS will sit on the die - so that it can spin:
> 
> With the direct die to IHS contact, and the use of CL PRO or Ultra, most delidder's get the 20-30C result. Seems with other TIMs we are only finding the 10-15C result common on many other forums, and sometimes it ends up being the convex or concave IHS that needs to be lapped after delidding.
> My own results after delidding and lapping my IHS has been 27C (see my photo galleries under delidding for pics and before and after temp testing).


Thanks for the info. I did my homework and used Coollaboratory Liquid Pro between the chip and IHS, i also carefully polished the edges on the IHS to be perfectly flat using a mirror and ultra fine grit paper + water. Made sure all the black silicone was gone and i used some of that fine grit paper and water on the inside of the IHS to remove any trace of the stock TIM. (I dont know if i should have done that, risking further un-even surfaceing of the ihs`s inside. It was done with next to no force, paper barely touching the IHS. Just enough to get the surface clean and ready for Liquid Pro.)

I had intended on using Indigo Extreme between the IHS and waterblock, but after failing to POST the system after de-lidding, twice, i ran out of I.E... Turns out as i placed the chip back into its socket and carefully placed the ihs on top, i managed to snag a CPU pin in the top right corner between the edge of the cpu pcb and the socket wall, resulting in the loss of a cpu pin... which i ofcourse did not notice untill i had ordered a new CPU









So after a new motherboard arrived i re-applied Liquid Pro on the chip / backside of IHS, and used my backup TIM between IHS and Waterblock - Gelid Extreme.. and as of now, the results speak for themselfs, and i really dont think i would get any practical use of the Indigo Extreme as my radiator can pretty much keep my temps in the 40`s on the cpu and 30`s on my gpu`s no matter what i throw on them...


----------



## Denzo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> so hows the new bios? Any negative feedback so far?


Hi.

I flashed to this bios a few hours after its release due to a multiplier wall i got on the 1616 revision of the bios.
I just could not under any circumstances get my bios past 43x...

With the 1708 bios i have had absolutely no issues on anything... ive got enough stuff in there to bug the bios out with 2x GTX 680`s in SLI, PCIe Revodrive3 X2 and a overclocked 3770K. I have pushed the cpu to 48x and booted / load tested successfully so far and im sure i can push it even more as im still a few notches away from volt limits.

I have not messed with ram timings yet so i cant give you feedback on that end, but i am using the xmp profile for now and again, no issues...


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Dear i5 3570k users with our Z77s, I could never manage to go above 4.2 so I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to tell me how they can get 4.5 or similar in their UEFI?
> 
> Screenshots or explanations on the things adjusted on the UEFI will be appreciated a lot.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_100

I followed this guide and Dubbed's pics and got to 4.5 stable no problem. I think I can push it to 4.8, that's later on though.

has anyone noticed any benefits to the new bios?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_100
> 
> I followed this guide and Dubbed's pics and got to 4.5 stable no problem. I think I can push it to 4.8, that's later on though.
> 
> has anyone noticed any benefits to the new bios?


Seems 1708 is OK so far.

My Mem issues finally has a solution which make the 16GB work at last. I'll note it in case someone else has the same Ram and/or memory problem.

Mem type: 16GB Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866 9-9-9-27 2T 1.5v (4x4GB)

Problem: With regular settings or XMP they would give mem errors when all 16GB were used. These mem sticks worked fine as 16GB in my other board and run fine on the sabertooth as 8GB in either A1/B1 or A2/B2 slots. Just errors when all 16GB were used on this board.

The fix: Using manual setting for ram in BIOS, I changed settings higher for DDR voltage from 1.5v to 1.65v and also vccsa from default to 1.0625v.

With the higher voltage levels the 16GB stopped giving errors and finally allowed memtest, IBT, and prime95 to run without errors at OC testing up to 4.5GHz (along with several other bench tests).

Glad to have them work. Would have liked them to work at lower voltages though, as now OCing the mem will be tougher, but having the system run stable again is good. Hope this helps others who run into this problem.


----------



## heimeg

I bought this motherboard a little over a month ago. I mounted it with a little hassle but got it running like a dream. Then one day I suddenly realized, I hadn't noticed the sticker over the Ethernet- and two of the USB-ports. So yesterday I started taking my PC apart so I could remove the sticker, since I'm going to LAN in two weeks. I finally, after a lot of struggle, get the motherboard out and the sticker removed. When I put it in again for mounting, the screw holes don't line up with all the standoffs.
I have the R4 case if that helps.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Seems 1708 is OK so far.
> My Mem issues finally has a solution which make the 16GB work at last. I'll note it in case someone else has the same Ram and/or memory problem.
> Mem type: 16GB Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866 9-9-9-27 2T 1.5v (4x4GB)
> Problem: With regular settings or XMP they would give mem errors when all 16GB were used. These mem sticks worked fine as 16GB in my other board and run fine on the sabertooth as 8GB in either A1/B1 or A2/B2 slots. Just errors when all 16GB were used on this board.
> The fix: Using manual setting for ram in BIOS, I changed settings higher for DDR voltage from 1.5v to 1.65v and also vccsa from default to 1.0625v.
> With the higher voltage levels the 16GB stopped giving errors and finally allowed memtest, IBT, and prime95 to run without errors at OC testing up to 4.5GHz (along with several other bench tests).
> Glad to have them work. Would have liked them to work at lower voltages though, as now OCing the mem will be tougher, but having the system run stable again is good. Hope this helps others who run into this problem.


Glad to see it was something simple!
You tried a lower voltage though?
I'm on 1.55v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heimeg*
> 
> I bought this motherboard a little over a month ago. I mounted it with a little hassle but got it running like a dream. Then one day I suddenly realized, I hadn't noticed the sticker over the Ethernet- and two of the USB-ports. So yesterday I started taking my PC apart so I could remove the sticker, since I'm going to LAN in two weeks. I finally, after a lot of struggle, get the motherboard out and the sticker removed. When I put it in again for mounting, the screw holes don't line up with all the standoffs.
> I have the R4 case if that helps.


should fit, I have the R4 myself.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heimeg*
> 
> I bought this motherboard a little over a month ago. I mounted it with a little hassle but got it running like a dream. Then one day I suddenly realized, I hadn't noticed the sticker over the Ethernet- and two of the USB-ports. So yesterday I started taking my PC apart so I could remove the sticker, since I'm going to LAN in two weeks. I finally, after a lot of struggle, get the motherboard out and the sticker removed. When I put it in again for mounting, the screw holes don't line up with all the standoffs.
> I have the R4 case if that helps.


I did the same thing but have a full water cooling loop. So about 3 hours to build an hour to drain it then out it all back together again and run the loop.

Dam those plastic stickers.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I did the same thing but have a full water cooling loop. So about 3 hours to build an hour to drain it then out it all back together again and run the loop.
> Dam those plastic stickers.


I don't get where these stickers are. Aren't they just located at the back, and can easily be taken off?


----------



## Electrochef

Just bought this RAM for its great timings and speed, any positive info regarding its compatibility with this motherboard?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148563

Thanks


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Glad to see it was something simple!
> You tried a lower voltage though?
> I'm on 1.55v


They still failed at 1.5-1.6v, and I just finally went up to 1.65v in the end to see if they would even run at the max - and they did - so they may run somewhere between 1.61-1.65v if I want to find out through more testing.

But mem testing takes a whole lot of time, and I have been testing mem for days now trying to get it to even work, so I'll leave it there for now until I go to OC'ing them, and then I'll probably need whatever extra voltage may be left to run the higher clock stable anyway....I just hope there is enough room left to OC them stable...









Thanks for all your helpful suggestions *Totally Dubbed*!


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heimeg*
> 
> I bought this motherboard a little over a month ago. I mounted it with a little hassle but got it running like a dream. Then one day I suddenly realized, I hadn't noticed the sticker over the Ethernet- and two of the USB-ports. So yesterday I started taking my PC apart so I could remove the sticker, since I'm going to LAN in two weeks. I finally, after a lot of struggle, get the motherboard out and the sticker removed. When I put it in again for mounting, the screw holes don't line up with all the standoffs.
> I have the R4 case if that helps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I did the same thing but have a full water cooling loop. So about 3 hours to build an hour to drain it then out it all back together again and run the loop.
> Dam those plastic stickers.


I apologize but I had to laugh a bit. I had the exact same 'issue', but I just grabbed a pair of tweezers and pulled the sticker out through the ethernet cable hole in the IO shield. Took max 2 minutes including looking for tweezers, the sticker was _very_ easy to peel off.

@heimeg: it should really just fit in again, exactly like you did it the first time. There should be no reason why the board does fit the first time and not the second time while all you did is peel off a sticker.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> They still failed at 1.5-1.6v, and I just finally went up to 1.65v in the end to see if they would even run at the max - and they did - so they may run somewhere between 1.61-1.65v if I want to find out through more testing.
> But mem testing takes a whole lot of time, and I have been testing mem for days now trying to get it to even work, so I'll leave it there for now until I go to OC'ing them, and then I'll probably need whatever extra voltage may be left to run the higher clock stable anyway....I just hope there is enough room left to OC them stable...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your helpful suggestions *Totally Dubbed*!


glad I could help t some extent








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> I apologize but I had to laugh a bit. I had the exact same 'issue', but I just grabbed a pair of tweezers and pulled the sticker out through the ethernet cable hole in the IO shield. Took max 2 minutes including looking for tweezers, the sticker was _very_ easy to peel off.
> @heimeg: it should really just fit in again, exactly like you did it the first time. There should be no reason why the board does fit the first time and not the second time while all you did is peel off a sticker.


Can you show me a picture of what you guys are talking about lol


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *heimeg*
> 
> I bought this motherboard a little over a month ago. I mounted it with a little hassle but got it running like a dream. Then one day I suddenly realized, I hadn't noticed the sticker over the Ethernet- and two of the USB-ports. So yesterday I started taking my PC apart so I could remove the sticker, since I'm going to LAN in two weeks. I finally, after a lot of struggle, get the motherboard out and the sticker removed. When I put it in again for mounting, the screw holes don't line up with all the standoffs.
> I have the R4 case if that helps.
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize but I had to laugh a bit. I had the exact same 'issue', but I just grabbed a pair of tweezers and pulled the sticker out through the ethernet cable hole in the IO shield. Took max 2 minutes including looking for tweezers, the sticker was _very_ easy to peel off.
Click to expand...

I had to laugh too as I had thought I was the only "bone-head" that happened too! I fixed mine the same way you did *keesgelder*, I just kept the board in and used tweezers and it came right out.









Really though, I have never had a board that put a sticker over the ethernet port! Never thought to look for it to remove it before I installed the board, so had it running and tried to plug in the cable! - then, ***??? - found it! No way I wanted to take the whole thing apart, so I tried the tweezers and it worked great! LOL


----------



## Bigjeep

Just reading this post above about the tape and my motherboard is sitting on the table ready to be installed in my case. Sure enough, took a look and there is the tape!







So now its off!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjeep*
> 
> Just reading this post above about the tape and my motherboard is sitting on the table ready to be installed in my case. Sure enough, took a look and there is the tape!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now its off!


Good to hear. Glad we saved someone else from the problem!


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Can you show me a picture of what you guys are talking about lol


Ha! Finally my 'always keep everything that comes with components' obsession has some use. I actually put the sticker on my quick start guide (to keep it) and because I cannot find any images online, I reconstructed what it looked like with my mad GIMP skills lol. So, it's basically a (thin) sticker covering two USB 3.0 ports as well as the Ethernet port. Here you go:



I actually noticed that in many unboxings, like 



 and 



, there was no sticker at all (so maybe you didn't have it either). Perhaps the first batch came without the sticker, and later batches came with it. What a fascinating mystery







lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Ha! Finally my 'always keep everything that comes with components' obsession has some use. I actually put the sticker on my quick start guide (to keep it) and because I cannot find any images online, I reconstructed what it looked like with my mad GIMP skills lol. So, it's basically a (thin) sticker covering two USB 3.0 ports as well as the Ethernet port. Here you go:
> 
> I actually noticed that in many unboxings, like
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> 
> , there was no sticker at all (so maybe you didn't have it either). Perhaps the first batch came without the sticker, and later batches came with it. What a fascinating mystery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


I'm pretty sure I had that sticker, but got it off, out of impulse.
How did the guys get it logged into the PC is beyond me lol









Reason I didn't know what it was, was the fact that it has caused 2-3 people here those problems...lol

EDIT: Yup had it:
@5:40 in my video unboxing:


----------



## [email protected]

Maybe next time post a CLOSER picture what it looks like so future customers know what to look if they got this board.


----------



## DueVendetta

Had this board since pretty much since release and loving it. No real issues at all loving it since day 1 with it. Looks great, feels great.
Only thing that's kinda annoyed me is that I just switched it from an Antec 902 into a Corsair 600T.
It might just be me or the fan layout changing but I remember mobo temps being around 30-34 and now they are at 38-40.

But other then that thing's a beast.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Nice rig dude


----------



## volegradele




----------



## Electrochef

Which asmedia ahci drivers are you guys using? 1.3.4.000 or 1.3.8.000?
Any difference?


----------



## nerdybeat

Just dropping in to say Hi, as I am about to upgrade to 3770K/Z77 Sabertooth this holiday. I helped a buddy build his rig with this mobo, and it was an absolute pleasure to set up. not to mention my already great experience with my X58 Sabertooth.

I will post pics when I get it, and post some overclock results! I am excited for the new BIOS interface. Holiday will be nice to me - new mobo/CPU and snagging a SSD.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

When I add my 2nd 670 to the sabertooth Z77, I know that it will work as 8x,8x

How much of a performance impact would it be vs a motherboard that supports 16x, 16x configuration?


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> When I add my 2nd 670 to the sabertooth Z77, I know that it will work as 8x,8x
> 
> How much of a performance impact would it be vs a motherboard that supports 16x, 16x configuration?


You have nothing to worry about.

You might be interested in this article (they tested extensively how the GTX680 and 7970 performed with different lane configurations). Turns out, there's little difference between PCIe (3.0) x16 and x8 with the tested cards. For example, take one of their Battlefield 3 benchmarks (results vary per game, but never anything serious). 0.7% difference between PCIe (3.0) x16 and x8 (for the GTX680). You'd even be fine with PCIe (3.0) x4; only a 1% difference compared to x16. I don't think results for the GTX670 will be very different.

Quote from a later article on GTX670 SLI: "PCI-Express 3.0 x8 provides bandwidth that yields performance identical to that of PCI-Express 2.0 x16, and that PCI-Express 3.0 x16 makes these current-generation high-end GPUs no more than 1% faster" (regarding the 7970 and GTX680).

I'm probably going for a second GTX670 myself later this year as well. In my case, I'll be on PCIe 2.0 x8. Still, not much to worry about







. I'm more worried about temps, but I'm just assuming it'll be okay


----------



## iARDAs

Thanks for the explanation mate

+rep

I was thinking of grabbing myself an all PCI 3.0 16 mobo but there is no need it seems

I will also SLI but perhaps if the temperatures are not good enough, I MIGHT get a motherboard with 3 PCI slots so I can leave a gap for the top GPU to breathe a bit better.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Yep. *Denzo* is correct. Delidding makes an IB into the chip it ought to have always been. No more temp issues - but still have vcore limits. There is a OCN club link on my sig for good info on how to do it correctly if you are interested.
> *I have bought a new sabertooth Z77* - The install went real smooth and I'm checking out the board's abilities.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One issues I am working through - *I am failing memtest with all 16GB* (4x4GB) populating all the slots, yet I can get each stick to run in each slot without any errors. (Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866 9-9-9-27 2T )
> Also 8GB works in either A1/A2 or B1/B2. Only have mem errors with all slots full. All 16GB still work fine in other Asus P8Z68-V/Gen3 board. I have also tried a 3570K and a 3770K to verify it's not the IMC.
> Any issues like this encounterd with this board? I really hope I do not need to RMA it, so maybe someone here has ideas on BIOS adjustments or other ideas?


I had the same on bios 1216, upped it to 1516 and it solved several problems as well as memory recognition issues. I was using 4 x 8gb myself.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> The Noctua fan as mentioned earlier


out of curiosity why did you move the fan here. I too am using the Noctua and I seriously cant hear it at all, even after total shut down I see it running and hear nothing. They run at 2350 rpm when originals were at 3800 on average.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DueVendetta*
> 
> Had this board since pretty much since release and loving it. No real issues at all loving it since day 1 with it. Looks great, feels great.
> Only thing that's kinda annoyed me is that I just switched it from an Antec 902 into a Corsair 600T.
> It might just be me or the fan layout changing but I remember mobo temps being around 30-34 and now they are at 38-40.
> But other then that thing's a beast.


wow glad to finally read this post as I too have the Corsair 600T and same mobo temp. Also I swear at first it was 23°. I placed a fan in the side panel/window sucking air out from near the sensor and its dropped to around 33° but I am unhappy with the noise. I connected it to the cases fan controller and am not sure it works at all i.e the volume knob makes no noticeable difference to the sound. What are your thoughts on the case ? I am really unhappy with it. Wish I'd retuned it now. You have made it look good though nice one !


----------



## DueVendetta

I setup the stock exhaust fan I removed from the back on top of one of the hard drive cages facing the mobo and graphics cards and the temps dropped from 40c to about 32c. easy fix but I've got barely any noise at all. I love it beats the NZXT phantom I had and the antec 902 I had.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanks for the explanation mate
> 
> +rep
> 
> I was thinking of grabbing myself an all PCI 3.0 16 mobo but there is no need it seems
> 
> I will also SLI but perhaps if the temperatures are not good enough, I MIGHT get a motherboard with 3 PCI slots so I can leave a gap for the top GPU to breathe a bit better.


In your case I wouldn't worry about heat too much either. You've got a card that exhausts the hot air outside the case (a 'blower type' design). These cards generally run a bit hotter themselves compared to open designs as seen on many non-reference cards, but when running SLI you won't have the cards heating up each other. My card (the Asus GTX670 DCUII) has one of these open designs and exhausts a lot of hot air into the case itself. When running SLI, I think this might lead to the cards heating up each other a little bit. But we'll see









Also, with the Sabertooth Z77, you've got an empty slot in between the cards (as long as you leave it empty of course). I think that will be enough to provide your cards with enough fresh air. There are boards with even more space in between (mostly the extreme boards with 4 PCIe slots, like the Maximus V Extreme or Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7), but then you'd need a special size SLI bridge, you'd have waste possibly _a lot_ of money on a board with features you really do not need, and your second card will be closer to the PSU (or the metal plate in your 800D, which might also prevent fresh air from reaching it, although your 800D is probably so big that this won't be an issue at all). In general, I think the kind of spacing between slots on the Sabertooth Z77 is about as good as it gets (and it's pretty standard nowadays).

(btw, the Sabertooth Z77 does have an extra PCIe 2.0 x4 slot, but I wouldn't recommend using it as PCIe 2.0 x4 is actually a more significant bit slower, and it might be harder to get fresh air over there as well).

I'd say enjoy your awesome SLI setup


----------



## Electrochef

Do you guys have the 40mm motherboard fan as intake or exhaust? (the one next to the I/O shied).


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> In your case I wouldn't worry about heat too much either. You've got a card that exhausts the hot air outside the case (a 'blower type' design). These cards generally run a bit hotter themselves compared to open designs as seen on many non-reference cards, but when running SLI you won't have the cards heating up each other. My card (the Asus GTX670 DCUII) has one of these open designs and exhausts a lot of hot air into the case itself. When running SLI, I think this might lead to the cards heating up each other a little bit. But we'll see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, with the Sabertooth Z77, you've got an empty slot in between the cards (as long as you leave it empty of course). I think that will be enough to provide your cards with enough fresh air. There are boards with even more space in between (mostly the extreme boards with 4 PCIe slots, like the Maximus V Extreme or Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7), but then you'd need a special size SLI bridge, you'd have waste possibly _a lot_ of money on a board with features you really do not need, and your second card will be closer to the PSU (or the metal plate in your 800D, which might also prevent fresh air from reaching it, although your 800D is probably so big that this won't be an issue at all). In general, I think the kind of spacing between slots on the Sabertooth Z77 is about as good as it gets (and it's pretty standard nowadays).
> (btw, the Sabertooth Z77 does have an extra PCIe 2.0 x4 slot, but I wouldn't recommend using it as PCIe 2.0 x4 is actually a more significant bit slower, and it might be harder to get fresh air over there as well).
> I'd say enjoy your awesome SLI setup


Yeah true. Actually blower fan type GPU was my first choice since I always wanted to SLI. There were 2 reasons I upgraded from my Gigabyte 670 WindForce3 2GB. 1, it was 2GB and not future proof for 1440p gaming and 2, it could be warm in SLI.

The thing is I also have a soundcard. And I can not put it on the top PCI slot because of 2 reasons

1-) There is a turbo fan but its not a biggie

2-) I dont want to block my backplate



When I get my 2nd card, I thought about placing the soundcard to the lowest PCIE16x slot, but than it hit me, If i insert the soundcard there my GPUs would perform slower right? Since all the PCIe16x slots will be full. Thats why I am thinking of placing the soundcard between the two GPUs, in the 1xPCI slot. The soundcard will not block the upper GPU blower fan so I think I should be good.

Thanks for advice once again


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrochef*
> 
> Do you guys have the 40mm motherboard fan as intake or exhaust? (the one next to the I/O shied).


its not 40mm it 35mm and manual says intake.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrochef*
> 
> Do you guys have the 40mm motherboard fan as intake or exhaust? (the one next to the I/O shied).


It is supposed to be intake to get the air moving underneath/through the armor. the one on the top center i suppose wouldnt matter either way given its location, but again the idea is to push air through so that the armor doesn't trap the heat between the board and the armor. I honestly wouldn't think it to make a noticable difference... i havent tested or anything... but just common sense says if you got mad case fans and liquid cooling etc... that mobo armor shouldnt be hot anyway.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Yeah true. Actually blower fan type GPU was my first choice since I always wanted to SLI. There were 2 reasons I upgraded from my Gigabyte 670 WindForce3 2GB. 1, it was 2GB and not future proof for 1440p gaming and 2, it could be warm in SLI.
> 
> The thing is I also have a soundcard. And I can not put it on the top PCI slot because of 2 reasons
> 
> 1-) There is a turbo fan but its not a biggie
> 2-) I dont want to block my backplate
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1135062/
> 
> 
> 
> When I get my 2nd card, I thought about placing the soundcard to the lowest PCIE16x slot, but than it hit me, *If i insert the soundcard there my GPUs would perform slower right?* Since all the PCIe16x slots will be full. Thats why I am thinking of placing the soundcard between the two GPUs, in the 1xPCI slot. The soundcard will not block the upper GPU blower fan so I think I should be good.
> 
> Thanks for advice once again


I actually think you can use that lowest slot without any bandwidth worries. According to the Asus spec sheet: "The PCIe 2.0 x16 slot shares bandwidth with PCIe 2.0 x1_1 slot, PCIe 2.0 x1_2 slot and PCIe 2.0 x1_3 slot", so apparently not with the PCIe 3.0 slots







.

Btw I really would have liked NVIDIA to go for 3GB as well (like AMD) on their high end models. 2GB is okay for now, but at higher resolutions/multiple monitors it can really become an issue. Personally I'm more of a 120Hz guy (which currently implies max 1080p) so it's not _that_ big a deal for me but yeah, if I spend another nearly 400 euros I would like to be somewhat future-proof with my setup. In terms of heat, my card is very quiet even at like 70% fan speed, so I'm hoping to resolve any potential heat related issues with a somewhat steeper fan curve. Ah well, we'll see, I'll let you know once it's in there







. Bought this card mostly because of noise and the (IMO) awesome looks, so at least it will look great







.

You've got an awesome rig btw


----------



## martian1

Settled on a 4.6 Mhtz overclock at load the cpu it still getting a little too much voltage but i am using offset with LLC to get the highest overclock with the lowest voltage for my cpu..i know the voltage is a little high but i have really good temps and since the cpu speed and the voltage drop dramatically at idle atleast the cpu is not getting high voltages 24/7


----------



## ppunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> The Noctua fan as mentioned earlier


is that a NF-A4x10 flx (40mm) and did you replace both assist fans with this one?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppunter*
> 
> is that a NF-A4x10 flx (40mm) and did you replace both assist fans with this one?


Yes it is mate, and he did replace them indeed.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its the only 40mm fan that Noctua make ... I can't remember the specific model.

As has been mentioned here numerous times ... only the rear IO fan can be replaced with a 40mm. However it is really the only important one as it directly cools the motherboard heatsink. It is a great little fan, even at full speed it is nearly completely silent as opposed to the loud buzzing of the original fan if it was not turned way down.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its the only 40mm fan that Noctua make ... I can't remember the specific model.
> As has been mentioned here numerous times ... only the rear IO fan can be replaced with a 40mm. However it is really the only important one as it directly cools the motherboard heatsink. It is a great little fan, even at full speed it is nearly completely silent as opposed to the loud buzzing of the original fan if it was not turned way down.


So what did you do with the one in the center?
I might buy one, just to draw in air into the motherboard, rather than have the exaust in the middle


----------



## navit

So who is using the 1708 Bios?? Any issues with it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> So who is using the 1708 Bios?? Any issues with it?


no issues that i can notice.


----------



## ppunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its the only 40mm fan that Noctua make ... I can't remember the specific model.
> As has been mentioned here numerous times ... only the rear IO fan can be replaced with a 40mm. However it is really the only important one as it directly cools the motherboard heatsink. It is a great little fan, even at full speed it is nearly completely silent as opposed to the loud buzzing of the original fan if it was not turned way down.


awesome! i just bought one today, delivery is tomorrow.

can i install the original assist fan in the center and lower it's RPM only so that it will be less noisy without interfering with the noctua in the IO
in other words, can the rpm be turned down for each assist fan individually ? if so, how do i do that? bios?


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> no issues that i can notice.


Cool thanks


----------



## volegradele

After upgrading the new BIOS, I can not connect Slim Device Transporter and Logitech Media Server running on my PC I'm back to the old BIOS, but again no progress.Someting with the IP address is wrong (Wireless Network Connection does not have valid IP configuration..)


----------



## TigerStripes

Hi all-

I've been turning the forums upside down but haven't been able to find anyone else with my problem. Basically, the flanges on my mounting screws are too wide to fit in the recessed holes in the thermal armor. I'll probably run out to the nearest hardware store to see if I can find some 6-32's with a narrower head, but I was just curious if anyone else came across this issue while installing their sabertooth. One more reason why I think mobo manufacturers should include mounting screws...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerStripes*
> 
> Hi all-
> I've been turning the forums upside down but haven't been able to find anyone else with my problem. Basically, the flanges on my mounting screws are too wide to fit in the recessed holes in the thermal armor. I'll probably run out to the nearest hardware store to see if I can find some 6-32's with a narrower head, but I was just curious if anyone else came across this issue while installing their sabertooth. One more reason why I think mobo manufacturers should include mounting screws...


Just thought to reply, to say someone read your question:
No - I didn't have this problem, nor have come across it either.


----------



## TigerStripes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Just thought to reply, to say someone read your question:
> No - I didn't have this problem, nor have come across it either.


I certainly appreciate the response









I ended up just filing down the screw heads. Not the prettiest thing but you can't see the screws down in the armor anyway, and it'll do the trick until I buy a new case. Can't wait to finally try this board out later this weekend.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerStripes*
> 
> I certainly appreciate the response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up just filing down the screw heads. Not the prettiest thing but you can't see the screws down in the armor anyway, and it'll do the trick until I buy a new case. Can't wait to finally try this board out later this weekend.


Cool beans! Let us know how it goes!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

So guys and girls with a 3570K what is your best overclock with the Sabertooth Z77.

A few bios updates and im curios to see where its at.

I have played around a bit and still cant get %100 stable past 4.4 using the offset method.

Please share your bios settings if you can.

Cheers.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> So guys and girls with a 3570K what is your best overclock with the Sabertooth Z77.
> A few bios updates and im curios to see where its at.
> I have played around a bit and still cant get %100 stable past 4.4 using the offset method.
> Please share your bios settings if you can.
> Cheers.


I got bios settings in my Sig, but I don't think 4.5 is the max I can go. But rather the max I want to go


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> So guys and girls with a 3570K what is your best overclock with the Sabertooth Z77.
> A few bios updates and im curios to see where its at.
> I have played around a bit and still cant get %100 stable past 4.4 using the offset method.
> Please share your bios settings if you can.
> Cheers.


I don't have that great of a chip, runs cool but >45x requires tons of voltage.
Oh and bios 1708.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> I don't have that great of a chip, runs cool but >45x requires tons of voltage.
> Oh and bios 1708.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing your DIGI+ control looks interesting I will give it a go.


----------



## Acacia

For some reason, no matter what I change the CPU ratio to in my BIOS or TurboV EVO, it doesn't actually change anything. My BIOS, CPU-Z, TurboV EVO, My Computer, etc. all say that I'm still running at stock 3.5 Ghz (100 BCLK/35 CPU Ratio) even when Ai Tweaker and the Advanced tab both say I'm at 45 CPU Ratio and 100 BCLK.

I'm running a i7 3770k x4 3.5Ghz in a Sabertooth z77 running BIOS 1708

I'm not the most knowledgeable person about hardware or OC's, so bear with me if this is a stupid question. I've been searching the internet up and down relentlessly but still have not found an answer.


----------



## CameronF

I ordered the Sabertooth Z77 yesterday to go along with a 3570k. I already have sli'd 580's. I'm really psyched to finally get it and put it all together.

My current case is an XSPC H2. My CPU cooler is Coolermaster V6GT(Eventually i'll be switching over to liquid)1. The two of those along with thermal armor on the sabertooth are going to look great. Now I just need to order all black sleeved cables.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> For some reason, no matter what I change the CPU ratio to in my BIOS or TurboV EVO, it doesn't actually change anything. My BIOS, CPU-Z, TurboV EVO, My Computer, etc. all say that I'm still running at stock 3.5 Ghz (100 BCLK/35 CPU Ratio) even when Ai Tweaker and the Advanced tab both say I'm at 45 CPU Ratio and 100 BCLK.
> I'm running a i7 3770k x4 3.5Ghz in a Sabertooth z77 running BIOS 1708
> I'm not the most knowledgeable person about hardware or OC's, so bear with me if this is a stupid question. I've been searching the internet up and down relentlessly but still have not found an answer.


Make sure you're taking a reading while the cpu is under load, use cpu-z.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> For some reason, no matter what I change the CPU ratio to in my BIOS or TurboV EVO, it doesn't actually change anything. My BIOS, CPU-Z, TurboV EVO, My Computer, etc. all say that I'm still running at stock 3.5 Ghz (100 BCLK/35 CPU Ratio) even when Ai Tweaker and the Advanced tab both say I'm at 45 CPU Ratio and 100 BCLK.
> I'm running a i7 3770k x4 3.5Ghz in a Sabertooth z77 running BIOS 1708
> I'm not the most knowledgeable person about hardware or OC's, so bear with me if this is a stupid question. I've been searching the internet up and down relentlessly but still have not found an answer.


They aren't actually at full load.
Hit up prime, and then check your readings


----------



## Acacia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> They aren't actually at full load.
> Hit up prime, and then check your readings





http://imgur.com/TRTYW


According to CPU-Z, even when running Prime95 and when my CPU hits 50 degrees Celsius (it usually stays at mid-30ish), I still max out at 3500 Mhz.

The link above is an album of pictures that show my settings and prove that I'm saving my settings and show CPU-Z and Prime95 running as well as the Ai Thermal Radar running showing my CPU temp.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> For some reason, no matter what I change the CPU ratio to in my BIOS or TurboV EVO, it doesn't actually change anything. My BIOS, CPU-Z, TurboV EVO, My Computer, etc. all say that I'm still running at stock 3.5 Ghz (100 BCLK/35 CPU Ratio) even when Ai Tweaker and the Advanced tab both say I'm at 45 CPU Ratio and 100 BCLK.
> I'm running a i7 3770k x4 3.5Ghz in a Sabertooth z77 running BIOS 1708
> I'm not the most knowledgeable person about hardware or OC's, so bear with me if this is a stupid question. I've been searching the internet up and down relentlessly but still have not found an answer.


You should set multiplier at "Turbo Ratio" in Ai Tweaker section, not CPU Ratio. Set CPU Ratio back to Auto.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/TRTYW
> 
> According to CPU-Z, even when running Prime95 and when my CPU hits 50 degrees Celsius (it usually stays at mid-30ish), I still max out at 3500 Mhz.
> The link above is an album of pictures that show my settings and prove that I'm saving my settings and show CPU-Z and Prime95 running as well as the Ai Thermal Radar running showing my CPU temp.


Ok you got quite a few things wrong.

First of all - you should NOT be starting in offset mode.
Secondly, as the above poster said.
Thirdly go here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

For a full guide on OC'ing asus motherboards

Fourthly, check my bios settings, and copy them (your voltage, and ram voltage and timings might be different to mine):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293

Fifth, and very importantly:
THOSE ARE NOT your CPU temps, they are your MOTHERBOARD temps.
Why I'm emphasising that, is because, you need something like real temp or core temp o monitor your temps when OC'ing - temperatures, especially on ivy bridge are extremly important to monitor, and you need the right software to do so.
Those temps you are showing us in those print screens are related to your asus motherboard, and how hot that motherboard is, in the certain areas.
I must also stress, that those temperatures are also sometimes radically off - ie. my motherboard temp hit 127c which is false lol

I hope that helps bro


----------



## Acacia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ok you got quite a few things wrong.
> First of all - you should NOT be starting in offset mode.
> Secondly, as the above poster said.
> Thirdly go here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
> For a full guide on OC'ing asus motherboards
> Fourthly, check my bios settings, and copy them (your voltage, and ram voltage and timings might be different to mine):
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> Fifth, and very importantly:
> THOSE ARE NOT your CPU temps, they are your MOTHERBOARD temps.
> Why I'm emphasising that, is because, you need something like real temp or core temp o monitor your temps when OC'ing - temperatures, especially on ivy bridge are extremly important to monitor, and you need the right software to do so.
> Those temps you are showing us in those print screens are related to your asus motherboard, and how hot that motherboard is, in the certain areas.
> I must also stress, that those temperatures are also sometimes radically off - ie. my motherboard temp hit 127c which is false lol
> I hope that helps bro


After copying your settings and double checking to make sure everything was just as yours was (except what you told me not to copy), I still max at 3500 MHz and around 70C in coretemp/CPU-Z.

I honestly don't know what to do. Even when I try to change the settings in TurboV EVO, once I hit apply, nothing changes unless I change the BCLK frequency. My core/turbo ratio refuses to change.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> After copying your settings and double checking to make sure everything was just as yours was (except what you told me not to copy), I still max at 3500 MHz and around 70C in coretemp/CPU-Z.
> I honestly don't know what to do. Even when I try to change the settings in TurboV EVO, once I hit apply, nothing changes unless I change the BCLK frequency. My core/turbo ratio refuses to change.


Make sure you don't have any crazy power options set in windows.


----------



## Badge56

I have been running my P67 in manual mode and in runs 1600/4400... why is offset cooler?


----------



## rmorse27

If anybody is thinking about or knows someone in USA that wants to buy this board please send PM.I have a extra one back from repair from Asus just sitting here waiting for a home.The repair was for bent cpu socket pins stupid mistake on my part.I don't have the original box ,but do have most of the accessories.


----------



## Acacia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Make sure you don't have any crazy power options set in windows.


I use the default "High Performance" settings, and in my advanced options I don't see a "minimum/maximum processor state". There is only a "System cooling policy".

Is it possible that a windows setting could force my CPU to run at a lower speed before windows even boots? Because if I apply overclock settings and then go straight back into my BIOS when I restart, it still says I'm only at 3500 MHz.

I am honestly to the point that I would be willing to completely re-install windows just for a chance of it fixing the problem.


----------



## Tisca

Anyone running a *RAID* configuration? Is it reliable or should I get separate hardware controller? Looking to do Raid 1. Raid 5 would be nice but not with these HDD prices.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> I use the default "High Performance" settings, and in my advanced options I don't see a "minimum/maximum processor state". There is only a "System cooling policy".
> Is it possible that a windows setting could force my CPU to run at a lower speed before windows even boots? Because if I apply overclock settings and then go straight back into my BIOS when I restart, it still says I'm only at 3500 MHz.
> I am honestly to the point that I would be willing to completely re-install windows just for a chance of it fixing the problem.


I don't think it's the bios/board, maybe try uninstalling the proc from device manager.


----------



## Acacia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> I don't think it's the bios/board, maybe try uninstalling the proc from device manager.


This may be a dumb question, but what do you mean by "proc"?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> This may be a dumb question, but what do you mean by "proc"?


processor


----------



## Acacia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> processor


After uninstalling I restarted and now it works perfectly.

Thank you soooo much for your help. I was seriously bummed out about not being able to OC, but now I can!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> After uninstalling I restarted and now it works perfectly.
> Thank you soooo much for your help. I was seriously bummed out about not being able to OC, but now I can!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> processor


glad you got it sorted


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Make sure you don't have any crazy power options set in windows.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acacia*
> 
> I use the default "High Performance" settings, and in my advanced options I don't see a "minimum/maximum processor state". There is only a "System cooling policy".
> Is it possible that a windows setting could force my CPU to run at a lower speed before windows even boots? Because if I apply overclock settings and then go straight back into my BIOS when I restart, it still says I'm only at 3500 MHz.
> I am honestly to the point that I would be willing to completely re-install windows just for a chance of it fixing the problem.


out of interest, is it better or worse to have "high performance"?


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guys

Has any one do a clean install of windows 8 pro on there sabertooth
If so my I ask what drivers did you installed

Some one told me all I need to install is my NVidia driver they said windows 8

will find all the drivers for the motherboard.

thanks


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Can anyone help out on the Bios on this board. I need to update to the latest & for some reason the link on the asus website directs me to somewhere else. Plus I'm having some sort of ram issue's.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> Can anyone help out on the Bios on this board. I need to update to the latest & for some reason the link on the asus website directs me to somewhere else. Plus I'm having some sort of ram issue's.


Hit the global download link. Or just Google the bios number


----------



## Badge56

Hi, I just did a clean install of Windows 8 pro yesterday. I installed the following:
Intel Chipset V9301021
Intel LAN V17300
MEI V8101263
Realtek audio V51006699
Asmedia AHCI V1340
Intel USB3 V105235
USB3 Boost V10403 ( no idea what this does)

Plus Aisuite II V20101
Asus update V20008
PCdiag. V126
Thermal Radar V10129

So far all looks good. Easy OC to 4500


----------



## pbebeto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> Hi, I just did a clean install of Windows 8 pro yesterday. I installed the following:
> Intel Chipset V9301021
> Intel LAN V17300
> MEI V8101263
> Realtek audio V51006699
> Asmedia AHCI V1340
> Intel USB3 V105235
> USB3 Boost V10403 ( no idea what this does)
> Plus Aisuite II V20101
> Asus update V20008
> PCdiag. V126
> Thermal Radar V10129
> So far all looks good. Easy OC to 4500


how you got 4.500 ??? on my i change de multi to 42x and the cpu vcore to 1.12, and done ehehhehe its correct ?


----------



## Trelga

Hey guys I've had this thing since September and finally getting to OC, I had set my 2500k to run at 4.0Ghz and called it a day, now trying to find my max OC.

I'm following this guide, I think it's the second post.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18401772

I changed all settings he did, though I started with a lower OC.

Everything seems to be fine, but He says you should idle at 1.6ghz at aroudn .9v.

I'm running prime95 now.

On idle my CPU is only going down to 2.9ghz though it is going down to .9v
Right now during the test I'm getting my desired OC, and I'm at 1.27v.

Why is my idle speed so high?

(Right now my voltage is set to offset - .005 and the OC is at 4.0ghz. I know i could undervolt more but just testing it out now.) Max temp is 50C.) I'm running a H100 with push/pull is that temp high for that OC and that voltage?


----------



## Badge56

Just a quick question: Used offset +0.015 and running 4500 stable.
However, I noticed that idle temps are low on all cores like my 2600K ( 30-38 ) but running Intel burn they jump real quick to 85-93C
That is really hot. Normal ? Should I try a different config?
Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> Just a quick question: Used offset +0.015 and running 4500 stable.
> However, I noticed that idle temps are low on all cores like my 2600K ( 30-38 ) but running Intel burn they jump real quick to 85-93C
> That is really hot. Normal ? Should I try a different config?
> Thanks


That's normal as on idle it isn't being stressed.
And ibt really stresses the cpu. I found it the one that gives the highest temp readings, but not the one that will fully tell you that you're stable or not.


----------



## Rakin

Does replacing the I/O bay fan with the Noctua ones help in temps?


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Does replacing the I/O bay fan with the Noctua ones help in temps?


I don't think you will see a huge diff in temps,better fan would help.


----------



## rmorse27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppunter*
> 
> awesome! i just bought one today, delivery is tomorrow.
> can i install the original assist fan in the center and lower it's RPM only so that it will be less noisy without interfering with the noctua in the IO
> in other words, can the rpm be turned down for each assist fan individually ? if so, how do i do that? bios?


if you Asus AI suite you can adjust the fan speed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Does replacing the I/O bay fan with the Noctua ones help in temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmorse27*
> 
> I don't think you will see a huge diff in temps,better fan would help.


there's barely any difference with them on or completely off in the first place.
The thing that you'll notice is the SOUND levels will be decreased.


----------



## Orc Warlord

I installed the latest BIOS for my board. I updated from a BIOS build that was from March.

However, running the same OC profile now (4.8ghz offset +.185) shows 1.2v as my voltage and it maxxes out at 1.4v.

Before, I was in the 1.0-1.1v while idle and maxxed out around 1.384v.

If I want to revert to my old BIOS, how do I do that? Is the new BIOS I downloaded good/working as intended?


----------



## volegradele

Justin download old BIOS and flash!


----------



## billythekid2012

hi guys

have posted this be for I need help on what drivers to install for my board

I know a few of you are on windows 8 to

I went to the asus downloads for the SABERTOOTH Z77
but I am just lost that site is so mixed up

like it say wireless then you open it and its Management Engine Interface V8.1.0.1252 for Windows Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.(Beta

is there any thing wireless on this motherboard

so I hope one of you will tell me what driver you install after your windows 8 install

thanks


----------



## Badge56

No there is not. There are a bunch of useless drivers. Don't know why Asus is so screwed up that way. Its a guessing game.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> No there is not. There are a bunch of useless drivers. Don't know why Asus is so screwed up that way. Its a guessing game.


oh man, Asus have been like that for god knows how many years.


----------



## billythekid2012

so where do you all get your drivers if not from asus


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> so where do you all get your drivers if not from asus


Here's a good thread








http://www.overclock.net/t/1248928/asus-z77-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-11-28


----------



## aidenn

Hello,

I'll be flashing the newest bios in a bit, but first I have a couple of questions:

Is it worth it to flash the modded bios with the latest OROM and install matching RST or should I just stay with 11.2 (since 11.5 that ASUS has on its website is supposedly not very good)?

Should I update the IME firmware?

Should I bother with ANY of ASUS' utilities? I currently have the AI Suite II and I think it's useless crap.









Thanks!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aidenn*
> 
> Hello,
> I'll be flashing the newest bios in a bit, but first I have a couple of questions:
> Is it worth it to flash the modded bios with the latest OROM and install matching RST or should I just stay with 11.2 (since 11.5 that ASUS has on its website is supposedly not very good)?
> Should I update the IME firmware?
> Should I bother with ANY of ASUS' utilities? I currently have the AI Suite II and I think it's useless crap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I'm not educated enough to answer the two above questions, but the last one:
Hell no, keep that software off your pc







!
I reinstalled Windows recently, and didn't install a single asus thing lol, as I had loads of problems with the rubbish software beforehand.


----------



## Badge56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> so where do you all get your drivers if not from asus


You get them from Asus. Its just that you have to pick and chose the correct ones. Usually if you pick the wrong one, it tells you that its not for your board ! ( Why is it listed?? ) Only Asus knows :-(


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## TigerStripes

Mmmk, who wants to have a crack at this...

Got everything installed, the water loop is working beautifully, idle temps are in the low 20s or teens on my 3770k (haven't tried stress testing or OCing yet), and I flashed to the 1708 BIOS for the board. But a few things are funny. My first clue was that my windows clock wasn't keeping time. Shutting down and starting back up shows it keeping the time I shut down at. My initial reaction is the CMOS battery is bad. When I go into the BIOS, it shows only my HDD and optical drive on the click'n'drag priority bar, but if I click the boot button it lists those as well as my SSD (which has my OS on it). I have to click the SSD from this menu in order to boot properly from the BIOS, otherwise it tries to boot from my other 2 devices and obviously BSODs. If I simply shut down or restart from Windows and don't enter BIOS, there is no problem and it seems to "remember" that my SSD is my primary boot drive. And one other thing - If I choose one of the other performance profiles in the BIOS (default is normal, I think), next time I enter BIOS, it has reverted back to normal.

So what do you all think? I would think its a bad CMOS battery but since if I don't enter BIOS it seems to boot normally, I'm concerned that maybe the battery is fine and there's a deeper problem with the board. If its just the battery it will be a major pain to replace since its under the thermal armor, but it might still be better than an RMA. Let me know what y'all think, I greatly appreciate the help!


----------



## jktmas

Ok so ive had the S. Z77 since the middle of summer and my 3570k and new ram just came in a couple days ago, but i have to wait until Christmas. he suspense is killing me, especially since i can see how beautiful the board is and i cant use it.


----------



## TigerStripes

Fixed my issue. It appears the BIOS allows you to select only one hard drive as a boot, and in the advanced settings you can swap which drive you want it to be. The clock was a Windows Time file that was corrupted - just took a stop service command and a re-register and its fixed.


----------



## Aero1

Hey guys,
I am doing my first build in 20 years (well, since my CPM days!). I am replacing a machine re purposed to WHSv1 and used mostly for network shares file serving (media) and some transcoding with something that will grow . My old wHS is topped off at 6.5 of its 7 tb max.

So I am building a win8 machine based on an third gen i3, the Sabertooth Z77 1155, and a coolermaster full tower as a server/ light transcoder replacement..
The ram, sdd and hdds are is on order, bu as I have the new PSU, case, processor and board, I assembled those.

*I decided to power up to make sure PSU is ok and got three beeps.

My question is this: does anyone know if that is a normal beep pattern with no ram installed?*

Apologies ahead of time for this not being an overclock build, but this forum as the largest sabertooth thread on the net. It is friday night and I cant call asus to ask about it until Monday.

Build:
Assembled so far:
Coolermaster full HAF 932 advanced
Sabertooth Z77 1155
Core i3 3225 3.3GHz LGA 1155 Boxed
Seasonic MI12 II 620 Bronze

On order:
SSD 128G|SAMSUNG MZ-7PC128N/AM for OS
3x WDRed 3TB
MEM 4Gx2|G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

In hand:
Win 8
two 2TB consumer grade drives

Second question: I may have ordered the wrong ram It isn't here yet, coming Tuesday from newegg, but I ordered, G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

I dont see that exactly on the official list: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf

Should I find something exactly on that list? Or does that look close enough?

Thanks in advance


----------



## grunion

RAM should be fine...

But the CPU may be an issue...

Look for a thin white bar code sticker along the edge of the mobo, the last 4 numbers will indicate the bios version the board shipped with.
You'll need at least version 1015 to support that CPU.


----------



## Aero1

Grunion,
a) Thanks so much! Says 1504.
b) Are the three beeps a normal condition with no ram and no hdds? I have double checked all connections. cpu seated perfect.
c) I see there are two iterations of bios passed 1504. it is along thread to peruse, is bios flash to latest advisable? safe for moderate tech background?
d) all case and CPU fans are spinning but the tiny fans that came with the sabertooth are not. plugs are set fine. seem normal?
all best and thanks.


----------



## TigerStripes

Hi Aero,

b. I didn't see a GPU listed in your components. Do you have one installed? According to the manual, one continuous beep followed by three short beeps means no VGA detected. There is no option for three short beeps alone, but a repeated long beep followed by 2 short beeps means no memory detected. I suspect your three beeps would be one of these two scenarios. In any event, this seems to indicate that your PSU is operational, which is what you were trying to figure out in the first place.









c. I'm using 1708 myself and not having any issues, but if you're concerned about bugs with newer BIOS you can always start with 1504 while you get your rig built and update later. The BIOS flash button makes it very, very simple!

d. My board starts all the case fans at or before the post, but the little fans on the armor don't start till about 5 seconds after the post, typically when the windows screen is loading. So I think you're fine as far as that goes

Just a final note - I know you wanted to test you test your PSU so here are some thoughts:

- You won't really know if your PSU is powerful enough to run your rig until you've built it and done some stress testing. PSUs can lose output over a few hours usage (better quality brands less so) so after extended use you could run into problems if your PSU is bare minimum wattage for your needs. But this isn't something you'll be able to tell just from booting. My first custom rig I had a 750w corsair running an ROG board, Xfire 6970s, a 1090T and 5 case fans and it was fine for about 2 hours but if I were gaming it would just die unexpectedly. Thought it was a RAM problem, turned out it was the PSU. But I digress...

- If in the future you want to just test out to see if your PSU is producing any output, you can take a paperclip and stick one end in the green connector and the other in a black ground connector of the 24-pin (leave all other mobo connections unconnected). This creates a load that will allow you to connect and power other components like fans or disk drives and is how water coolers use their pumps to fill their loops without powering the whole system on and off over and over again. Oh and make sure to wrap some electrical tape around the paperclip or insulate it in some way because if it touches metal it can short out your PSU.

Hope this helps. Good luck!


----------



## Aero1

TigerStripes,
Thanks for all your answers.
I guess this question is going to sound like an anathema(sorry!) on this board, but is a gpu required with my i3 3325? This is going to serve as a windows 8 storage spaces monster, >99% of the time headless and admined from another pc. really I have the sabertooth because it seems like a robust board. I didnt want to go with an atom setup because I will be doing some transcoding. I got the board and processor together for about $120 off bundled so it made sense to me.

Have I made a mistake in not getting a gpu? not a big deal I can pick up up an inexpensive one. but the i3 does have on board graphics from what I understand. wont onboard function with no gpu?


----------



## TigerStripes

I've never made use of the onboard graphics on my chip so you might need to rely on someone with more experience. But in theory, I think you're correct and don't need an additional GPU. Which could mean a couple of things for your troubleshooting. 1, that we're misinterpreting the beep code as a VGA failure when in fact it IS the memory not detected code. 2, that the onboard graphics require RAM to function properly, thus leading to the VGA not detected code, or 3, something else is at fault that's beyond my expertise.

My gut feeling is that its the first option, since you DO have onboard graphics and DON'T have any RAM installed. Do the three beeps you're hearing repeat? There would be a pause between each set of three.

I would also do a google or search of the forums here for onboard graphics, maybe in the intel CPU subforum, and see what people with more experience than myself are saying


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ok Aero - I'm no pro, but here's my take on it:
-Graphics card isn't needed -> more so the i3, if I'm not mistaken has iGPU anyway -> in-built graphics that are actually half decent
-RAM looks fine, although you never know, but I highly doubt it is that
-PSU has enough power, or else it wouldn't boot up, let alone beep -> more so, the PSU you have is enough to power my GTX660ti, and an i7, let alone your "less power hungry" rig.

Here's what I think it is:
Have you made SURE you plugged all the wires in from the PSU?
This might sound utterly silly, but check the CPU fan header connection, the motherboard power connection -> I remember when they weren't properly in, my old pc wouldn't boot up and come with beeping errors.

So double check all connections are firmly in.
Finally, you can try updating your bios via USB - to the latest one, in case it is the bios that's having problems with win8.

Can I get something straight - are you booting up, or is it not getting past POST?


----------



## Aero1

Tigerstripes, thanks.
I will wait until the rest of the components come mid next week. I think your idea that the three beeps could be insufficient ram to power integrated graphics is a likely explanation.
My inclination is to put together a couple of parts of something and test each step before adding complexity, but in this case that could be causing me faults that wont exist once whole thing is assembled.


----------



## Aero1

Dubbed,
I am sorry. I have been doing some preliminary check before rest of my components arrive in a few days . I think it best to wait to until I have ram in before bothering you guys again.
I am not booting as I don't even have a drive in. I am getting nothing out of video out HDMI, but I guess that is also lack of ram. This was a test of: case, z77, CPU, PSU so far. I have triple checked all connections now.
I get one long, two short, beep sequence. I also get no activity on small on board fans. Main case fans and cpu fan are all spinning


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aero1*
> 
> Dubbed,
> I am sorry. I have been doing some preliminary check before rest of my components arrive in a few days . I think it best to wait to until I have ram in before bothering you guys again.
> I am not booting as I don't even have a drive in. I am getting nothing out of video out HDMI, but I guess that is also lack of ram. This was a test of: case, z77, CPU, PSU so far. I have triple checked all connections now.
> I get one long, two short, beep sequence. I also get no activity on small on board fans. Main case fans and cpu fan are all spinning


ah ha!
Yes get your components in - I'm sure all will be fine







!


----------



## TigerStripes

The one long two short beep sequence is definitely the no memory detected code. So get your RAM and you'll be all set!







Glad to have helped!


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*


That is a nice case.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> That is a nice case.


Thanks!


----------



## Orc Warlord

how do i flash back to my old 0906 bios?

the stupid asus suite updated my bios and my OC profile doesn't work... i tried flashing back but it says outdated bios... ***!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> how do i flash back to my old 0906 bios?
> the stupid asus suite updated my bios and my OC profile doesn't work... i tried flashing back but it says outdated bios... ***!


put it on a USB stick, get rid of that rubbish ai suite software, and then manually flash it back.


----------



## Orc Warlord

i know i did that but it says OUTDATED BIOS


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> i know i did that but it says OUTDATED BIOS


so it refuses to flash it, or after you've flashed it ai suite is saying outdated...?


----------



## Orc Warlord

It says the bios I am trying to flash is outdated.

AI suite installed a bios that came out this month, whereas I had the bios that came on my board when I got it (it was some march version 0906).

I couldn't cancel the operation because what if it messed up?

Now I can't revert back to my old bios because the old bios that I found on asus website is modified 3/9/12 or something. Changing the date modified does nothing (i tried it lol) since I"m assuming it is coded in somewhere..

Sigh.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> It says the bios I am trying to flash is outdated.
> AI suite installed a bios that came out this month, whereas I had the bios that came on my board when I got it (it was some march version 0906).
> I couldn't cancel the operation because what if it messed up?
> Now I can't revert back to my old bios because the old bios that I found on asus website is modified 3/9/12 or something. Changing the date modified does nothing (i tried it lol) since I"m assuming it is coded in somewhere..
> Sigh.


i swear it is possible....maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## iatacs19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Thanks!


what case is this? very nice!


----------



## h3llkill3r

Got my new pc with the SABERTOOTH Z77 simply <3 it ;D


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Orc Warlord*
> 
> It says the bios I am trying to flash is outdated.
> AI suite installed a bios that came out this month, whereas I had the bios that came on my board when I got it (it was some march version 0906).
> I couldn't cancel the operation because what if it messed up?
> Now I can't revert back to my old bios because the old bios that I found on asus website is modified 3/9/12 or something. Changing the date modified does nothing (i tried it lol) since I"m assuming it is coded in somewhere..
> Sigh.
> 
> 
> 
> i swear it is possible....maybe I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

You are not wrong *Dubbed*. It is true that Asus does not make it easy to downgrade a BIOS on most motherboards, but on the Sabertooth you can load it onto a USB and flash it through a back USB port with a older version BIOS (Not through AI Suite or within BIOS which will run into your problem - there is a button on the back of the board). Read the section in the MB manual that gives the steps.

On many other Asus boards though it is a real pain to downgrade BIOS (except maybe the ROG boards). Here is a link on how to do it though if no other way works for you. It also covers recovering from even worse BIOS issues than downgrading so it is a good link to save for that too:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039296628#post1039296628


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> You are not wrong *Dubbed*. It is true that Asus does not make it easy to downgrade a BIOS on most motherboards, but on the Sabertooth you can load it onto a USB and flash it through a back USB port with a older version BIOS (Not through AI Suite or within BIOS which will run into your problem - there is a button on the back of the board). Read the section in the MB manual that gives the steps.
> On many other Asus boards though it is a real pain to downgrade BIOS (except maybe the ROG boards). Here is a link on how to do it though if no other way works for you. It also covers recovering from even worse BIOS issues than downgrading so it is a good link to save for that too:
> 
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039296628#post1039296628


Thanks for the confirmation bro - I did think it was possible, seeing as you are almost forcing the mobo to flash a bios


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iatacs19*
> 
> what case is this? very nice!


Lian Li X-1000

Here in Argentina the Lian Li are hard to come...
Luckily I bought the latest on stock in the country









The X-1000 It's a model that's quite old, but it's the very best that can be achieved with respect to quality over here


----------



## Inacoma79

Gents

I picked up a couple new fans for my build and wanted to run push/pull, but there's nothing in AI Suite listing the "CPU Opt'l Fan". So the CPU fan runs via my user setting and the CPU opt'l fan is running @ 2200 RPM. Do any of you all have this same issue or know how to detect/program this fan or does this fan run in tandom to the CPU fan? I'm on BIOs 1616.

ps, I can see CPU Opt'l fan in BIOs, but still not showing up in AI Suite or HWM.


----------



## volegradele

I have recently without problems downgred my motherboard via USB!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Gents
> I picked up a couple new fans for my build and wanted to run push/pull, but there's nothing in AI Suite listing the "CPU Opt'l Fan". So the CPU fan runs via my user setting and the CPU opt'l fan is running @ 2200 RPM. Do any of you all have this same issue or know how to detect/program this fan or does this fan run in tandom to the CPU fan? I'm on BIOs 1616.
> ps, I can see CPU Opt'l fan in BIOs, but still not showing up in AI Suite or HWM.


that's the reason I don't use the softwares for it.
I go via BIOS if needs be

I had that problem with my antec 920, so I disabled monitoring and notifications of the CPU FAN


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Lian Li X-1000
> Here in Argentina the Lian Li are hard to come...
> Luckily I bought the latest on stock in the country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The X-1000 It's a model that's quite old, but it's the very best that can be achieved with respect to quality over here


I think that's one of the best quality cases you can buy here in the US, too. But given you're in Argentina, things like that are more difficult to come by. My wife, who's not from the US says that all the time. Post some updated pics when you're done with that bad boy.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's the reason I don't use the softwares for it.
> I go via BIOS if needs be
> I had that problem with my antec 920, so I disabled monitoring and notifications of the CPU FAN


I'm not in front my computer, but can you do custom fan speed setting via the BIOs, I can't recall? I thought you could only set fans via software or extra hardware (with this mobo, that is).


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

I am embarrassed to say I just upgraded bios to 1708 and forgot to write down my previous bios setting. I have been running Win 8 for quite some time at 4.3 with good temps. I just added another 256 Vertex 4 SSD, switched to raid 0, and upgraded bios. I am not concerned with max OC, but enjoy at little more ) I remember one member stating all he changed was offset - .025 ( I think) and I believe there was one other thing. If he could repost, I would appreciate it.


----------



## Wookieelover

I am planning on using the z77 Sabertooth for my watercooled PC-50R build.

How easy is it to remove the Thermal Armour?
I would like to remove it all for some custom paint.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> I'm not in front my computer, but can you do custom fan speed setting via the BIOs, I can't recall? I thought you could only set fans via software or extra hardware (with this mobo, that is).


You can't do custom fan profiles, from what I can remember.


----------



## ekg84

I llove my TUF board













I've had P67 sabertooth before and loved it then sold it to a friend and got z77 Sabertooth and its just amazing board.

BTW guys vote for a Mod Of The Month here







:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


----------



## Jakusonfire

Very nice work with your sleeving. I wish I could be bothered getting mine so neat


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Very nice work with your sleeving. I wish I could be bothered getting mine so neat


Thank you mate, indeed sleeving takes tons of time


----------



## aidenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm not educated enough to answer the two above questions, but the last one:
> Hell no, keep that software off your pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> I reinstalled Windows recently, and didn't install a single asus thing lol, as I had loads of problems with the rubbish software beforehand.


Thanks!

And since no one else bothered to answer the first two questions, I checked by myself. If anyone's interested:

Yes, modded 1708 and RST 11.6 are fine (so far at least), SSD benchmarks show that nothing of value is lost, performance is top notch, there are no hangups or crashes.

No, upgrading the IME firmware does not have any adverse effects as far as I can tell. Didn't check the vPro itself though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Thank you mate, indeed sleeving takes tons of time


Looks absolutely beautiful
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aidenn*
> 
> Thanks!
> And since no one else bothered to answer the first two questions, I checked by myself. If anyone's interested:
> Yes, modded 1708 and RST 11.6 are fine (so far at least), SSD benchmarks show that nothing of value is lost, performance is top notch, there are no hangups or crashes.
> No, upgrading the IME firmware does not have any adverse effects as far as I can tell. Didn't check the vPro itself though.


nice info








And my pleasure


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> I'm not in front my computer, but can you do custom fan speed setting via the BIOs, I can't recall? I thought you could only set fans via software or extra hardware (with this mobo, that is).


As I recall, in BIOS under monitoring there is each fan, and each has an enable and disable, fan alarm RPM, and fan speed option.

The fan speed option has four choices - silent, standard, turbo, and manual.

Under the manual choice you can enter some info for temps and fan speeds for min and max temps and speeds.

It has all the fans including the cpu opt. fan so maybe that will work for you.

Check it out and let us know if that works for you or not.


----------



## Gandyman

Hey guys! newbie forum poster / proud new sabertooth owner here, wondering if i could get a little advice. I apologize in advance if this question has already been answered, I started reading from page 1 here and gave up at about page 75 ... now im posting on page 380 (?)









So Im confused about which of the bundled software is necessary for performance/things to work, and what
is bloatware (or for novice pc users).

For example, I would like to charge my usb devices faster, but is this only possible via the software that comes
with the suite? or is that just a 'user friendly' resource hog to give a badly worded Taiwanese - English translated GUI to this feature?

Same with the Realtek HD audio manager (or whatever its called) that sits in my notification erea and loads to a clunky and slow interface. I want to uninstall it so badly but then am I removing my auto drivers? or perhaps tuning back its performance by defaulting it to a generic on board sound card by removing its software?

Similar questions relating to most of the software, especially the Intel stuff, like the rapid storage.

Thanks in advance, I know from browsing posts you guys are amazing and helpful.

edit: not sure whats up with the multi line formatting here I'll have to get used to it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Hey guys! newbie forum poster / proud new sabertooth owner here, wondering if i could get a little advice. I apologize in advance if this question has already been answered, I started reading from page 1 here and gave up at about page 75 ... now im posting on page 380 (?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So Im confused about which of the bundled software is necessary for performance/things to work, and what
> is bloatware (or for novice pc users).
> For example, I would like to charge my usb devices faster, but is this only possible via the software that comes
> with the suite? or is that just a 'user friendly' resource hog to give a badly worded Taiwanese - English translated GUI to this feature?
> Same with the Realtek HD audio manager (or whatever its called) that sits in my notification erea and loads to a clunky and slow interface. I want to uninstall it so badly but then am I removing my auto drivers? or perhaps tuning back its performance by defaulting it to a generic on board sound card by removing its software?
> Similar questions relating to most of the software, especially the Intel stuff, like the rapid storage.
> Thanks in advance, I know from browsing posts you guys are amazing and helpful.
> edit: not sure whats up with the multi line formatting here I'll have to get used to it


Hey there - welcome!

1. I think you'll have to use the software for features like usb charging
2. It isn't actually a software, but the driver you install, that comes with the audio manager. If you get rid of it, ie. disable it on startup, or via the bios, then the on-board audio won't work, or at least not properly.
3. Intel things, if you don't use them, you can get rid of them
4. I didn't install a single asus software, and nor an intel one. Only their drivers.

Hope that clears things up!


----------



## Gandyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey there - welcome!
> 1. I think you'll have to use the software for features like usb charging
> 2. It isn't actually a software, but the driver you install, that comes with the audio manager. If you get rid of it, ie. disable it on startup, or via the bios, then the on-board audio won't work, or at least not properly.
> 3. Intel things, if you don't use them, you can get rid of them
> 4. I didn't install a single asus software, and nor an intel one. Only their drivers.
> Hope that clears things up!


Thanks for your reply!

So the Intel rapid storage tech etc that seem to scream "Install me because I make your SSD faster!!!" doesn't really do anything? I just spent 2 hours setting up the Lucid Virtu MVP, ran Heaven benchmark and 3d mark 11 with not a single point of score difference. It did increase the fps of games that were limited by Vsync .. but who cares? you cant see past your moniters refresh rate right? Seems to me all this 'perforamce boosting' software that ASUS offers doesn't actually do anything in reality!

Also does anyone else use the motherboards auto overclocking tool in the bios? how does it rate compared to manual OC, I really like pressing one button and having it work but does it do much in reality?


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

I just bought this Mobo couple of weeks ago and this will be my first build. I started reading this thread from page one and now im on page 102 but too impatient to read it till the end having this question in mind... Im a bit paranoid about the heat thing coz im afraid i might fried my first build.

Im using the stock CPU cooler that comes with the cpu (i5-3570k)
I read about some reviews that the temp of the cpu it self should be below 30c on idle..
But the temp on my CPU is around 34 to 38c on idle (same range as the other components in there)...
It is also on the same range weather im Installing something, using ODD for couple of hours. Browsing the net and streaming videos (room temp), haven't gone up to 40c+..
I also check my cpu usage and it haven't gone up to 20% so its very minimal...

My question is, is there something wrong with the installation of the stock CPU cooler on my system? That i didn't hit the temp it should be on idle? Or can it really handle and do its job?

Upon installment, i remove the stock thermal paste applied on the cooler, then i use noctua NT-H1 thermal compound. It is so thick that i have to use 2pcs of spatula to apply it evenly on the cooler and at the back of CPU. What i did is apply it like how you apply paint putty on wall, make sure that its thin enough and don't act as a hindrance on heat conductivity. i even make it shake a bit to make sure that its resting properly on its place.. What im saying is, im using my computer to its minimal performance, what if ill be using my computer for heavy gaming? Should i still use it or should i wait for my custom block coolers? wew, so paranoid, i think i need to rest a bit, i even didn't know if i posted it on the right thread... lol

Here's my current build atm (ALL STOCK NO OC HAS BEEN DONE YET)

CPU - i5-3570k
CPU Cooler - Stock i5-3570k
Mobo - asus sabertooth z77
Ram - Gskill Sniper 1600mhz 8gb (4.x2)
HDD - 500GB WD Caviar Green
ODD - Asus 24x
PSU - Seasonic X-760watts full modular 80+ gold.
GPU - Asus GTX 660 Ti TOP DirectCU II 2gb/192bit (OC Ed)
Case - Aerocool Strike X - ST (full tower) 2x 120mm, 3x 140mm, 2x 160mm fans


----------



## Gandyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> I just bought this Mobo couple of weeks ago and this will be my first build. I started reading this thread from page one and now im on page 102 but too impatient to read it till the end having this question in mind... Im a bit paranoid about the heat thing coz im afraid i might fried my first build.
> Im using the stock CPU cooler that comes with the cpu (i5-3570k)
> I read about some reviews that the temp of the cpu it self should be below 30c on idle..
> But the temp on my CPU is around 34 to 38c on idle (same range as the other components in there)...
> It is also on the same range weather im Installing something, using ODD for couple of hours. Browsing the net and streaming videos (room temp), haven't gone up to 40c+..
> I also check my cpu usage and it haven't gone up to 20% so its very minimal...
> My question is, is there something wrong with the installation of the stock CPU cooler on my system? That i didn't hit the temp it should be on idle? Or can it really handle and do its job?
> Upon installment, i remove the stock thermal paste applied on the cooler, then i use noctua NT-H1 thermal compound. It is so thick that i have to use 2pcs of spatula to apply it evenly on the cooler and at the back of CPU. What i did is apply it like how you apply paint putty on wall, make sure that its thin enough and don't act as a hindrance on heat conductivity. i even make it shake a bit to make sure that its resting properly on its place.. What im saying is, im using my computer to its minimal performance, what if ill be using my computer for heavy gaming? Should i still use it or should i wait for my custom block coolers? wew, so paranoid, i think i need to rest a bit, i even didn't know if i posted it on the right thread... lol
> Here's my current build atm (ALL STOCK NO OC HAS BEEN DONE YET)
> CPU - i5-3570k
> CPU Cooler - Stock i5-3570k
> Mobo - asus sabertooth z77
> Ram - Gskill Sniper 1600mhz 8gb (4.x2)
> HDD - 500GB WD Caviar Green
> ODD - Asus 24x
> PSU - Seasonic X-760watts full modular 80+ gold.
> GPU - Asus GTX 660 Ti TOP DirectCU II 2gb/192bit (OC Ed)
> Case - Aerocool Strike X - ST (full tower) 2x 120mm, 3x 140mm, 2x 160mm fans


Hey dude Im not an authority on it but as far as Im aware the safe operating temperatures is well above what you are experiencing. Also your ambient room temperature maybe what is making it a bit hotter then what you read.

As for the thermal paste (again on not an authority) but I feel you may have overdone it, a very very small blob in the middle of your CPU seems to be the recommended.

Lastly if you are worried that much about it aftermarket CPU coolers are quite cheap (in comparison to what you spent on the CPU)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032

New corsair H100i only 120 bucks and thats top of the line, price only goes down from there.

Good luck with your build man!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> It did increase the fps of games that were limited by OC, I really like pressing one button and having it work but does it do much in reality?


Ok the auto oc is pretty useless, I highly suggest doing a manual oc. Not only will it be more stable, but also will perform better.

For example it would downclock my RAM.

As for software, yeah I have none of that installed. The rapid storage actually requires a big hdd of some sort, and wasn't compatible with my hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> I just bought this Mobo couple of weeks ago and this wil


I'm actually surprised that you have a nice build with a terrible cooler!
Are you sure those temps are cpu temps and not motherboard ones? As they are separate things!


----------



## Rakin

Anybody getting blue screen if you plug in a harddrive while the OS is running? I have Hotplug enabled in the BIOS but I can't hotplug drives.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Anybody getting blue screen if you plug in a harddrive while the OS is running? I have Hotplug enabled in the BIOS but I can't hotplug drives.


From what I have read on the web, W7 does not like hotplug. I don't know about W8. But with W7 the OS can BSOD from using it.


----------



## iARDAs

I am thinking of getting a HAF XB case.

It has 2 front USB 3.0 ports but they are connected internally.

Normally I have my Corsair 800D and the USB 3.0 cables need to be connected to the I/O of the motherboard via extension cables.

It seems its a bit different in Haf XB. So basically where do I connect the USB 3.0 cables on the motherboard?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I am thinking of getting a HAF XB case.
> 
> It has 2 front USB 3.0 ports but they are connected internally.
> 
> Normally I have my Corsair 800D and the USB 3.0 cables need to be connected to the I/O of the motherboard via extension cables.
> 
> It seems its a bit different in Haf XB. So basically where do I connect the USB 3.0 cables on the motherboard?


Am I not mistaken in saying it is a bulky wire that comes with the case, and connects to the motherboard?
This blue connection to the right of my motherboard is for the 2x USB 3.0 at the front of my fractal r4:


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I am thinking of getting a HAF XB case.
> 
> It has 2 front USB 3.0 ports but they are connected internally.
> 
> Normally I have my Corsair 800D and the USB 3.0 cables need to be connected to the I/O of the motherboard via extension cables.
> 
> It seems its a bit different in Haf XB. So basically where do I connect the USB 3.0 cables on the motherboard?


They plug to this green port on the Z77:



Using a connector like this:


----------



## iARDAs

Ok I got it thank you guys.

I dont have the case now but will be ordering so I was wondering that.

+rep


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Ok I got it thank you guys.
> 
> I dont have the case now but will be ordering so I was wondering that.
> 
> +rep


my pleasure mate!
Enjoy


----------



## zandar

Hello all, new to Overclock.net. Hopefully I am doing this correctly







First Why isn't the "ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 Owners Thread/Club" ONLY a single thread and not its "own" Forum?

Anyway I Have a couple questions:

1.) is it worth it to upgrade to the newest BIOS? This is a new build and the board came with Version: 1206. Everything works correctly as is, but I am in the process of overclocking,
is there any advantage or disadvantage to flashing to version: 1708? Will the newest version be better for overclocking?

2.) Have been using Intel Extreme Overclocking Utility to Stress test my system, its temperature reading is 10 -20 different from the AI Suite II. (I am reading both simultaneously)
what is the most accurate temp reader? I would think ASUS would know how to read them correctly on their own boards.

Thanks









Processor
i7 2700K

Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Hard Drive
Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F120GBGT-BK 2.5" 120GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Cooling
XSPC Raystorm 750 RX360 Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit

Power
CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Graphics
onboard

Hard Drive
x2 300GB Raptor 3G

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit SP1

Case
Antec LanBoy Air Case Yellow

RAM
G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL10Q-32GBZL

Optical Drive
LG Blu-Ray Burner

Monitor
x2 Samsung SyncMaster 930B

Audio
on


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Hello all, new to Overclock.net. Hopefully I am doing this correctly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First Why isn't the "ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 Owners Thread/Club" ONLY a single thread and not its "own" Forum?
> Anyway I Have a couple questions:
> 1.) is it worth it to upgrade to the newest BIOS? This is a new build and the board came with Version: 1206. Everything works correctly as is, but I am in the process of overclocking,
> is there any advantage or disadvantage to flashing to version: 1708? Will the newest version be better for overclocking?
> 2.) Have been using Intel Extreme Overclocking Utility to Stress test my system, its temperature reading is 10 -20 different from the AI Suite II. (I am reading both simultaneously)
> what is the most accurate temp reader? I would think ASUS would know how to read them correctly on their own boards.
> Thanks


0) It is an intel motherboard, thus in the intel forums, and a thread for the z77








1) Some people have reported the new bios being better for OCs
2) HWmonitor is the most accurate, CPUZ for voltage readings, coretemp for VID and cpu temps, asus thermal radar is for MOTHERBOARD readings - so they are 2 separate things.
That said I wouldn't trust ai suiteII one single bit


----------



## zandar

Thanks for the info, Totally Dubbed









Sorry, a couple more things. Which is best and safest, "Intel Extreme Overclocking Utility" or Prime95 to Stress test my system?

Do you know the best guide to overclocking specifically with a 2700k or 2600k and the z77 sabertooth. ( I have looked at dozens of sandy bridge guides, but they all very so much.)

Thanks










P.S.
I am an experienced PC guy, but new to overclocking. So please forgive stupid questions


----------



## GermanyChris

Here is the TUF guy in the Vengeance C70, the cable mess will evolve into less of a mess when I'm clear on where I want things and how I want them to look


----------



## Wookieelover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> I am planning on using the z77 Sabertooth for my watercooled PC-50R build.
> How easy is it to remove the Thermal Armour?
> I would like to remove it all for some custom paint.


Anybody ?

thanks


----------



## zandar

It comes off, but I can't tell you the difficulty level. But obviously don't paint the back side and use high -heat paint


----------



## TigerStripes

It isn't difficult. A handful of small screws on the back of the board hold it in place.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Thanks for the info, Totally Dubbed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, a couple more things. Which is best and safest, "Intel Extreme Overclocking Utility" or Prime95 to Stress test my system?
> Do you know the best guide to overclocking specifically with a 2700k or 2600k and the z77 sabertooth. ( I have looked at dozens of sandy bridge guides, but they all very so much.)
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.
> I am an experienced PC guy, but new to overclocking. So please forgive stupid questions


I found intel burn-in test quite good for testing temps, however prime 95 the best for stability testing.

As for OC'ing guides don't know about the sandys but for ivy - here's swag's awesome guide:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

I also encourage you to copy my prime 95 settings and possibly bios:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293

And no problem for the questions









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> Anybody ?
> thanks


I would love to answer, but have no experience in that domain.
I know some people have reported getting it off.
I don't know why some want it off - if you do, then what's the point of getting the sabertooth in the first place?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Thanks for the info, Totally Dubbed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, a couple more things. Which is best and safest, "Intel Extreme Overclocking Utility" or Prime95 to Stress test my system?
> 
> Do you know the best guide to overclocking specifically with a 2700k or 2600k and the z77 sabertooth. ( I have looked at dozens of sandy bridge guides, but they all very so much.)
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.
> I am an experienced PC guy, but new to overclocking. So please forgive stupid questions


I have both. I'd use prime95 for extended stress testing (and do). Also use RealTemp for good temp readings. Both of those programs are OC standards.


----------



## zandar

At the present I am using the integrated graphics on the 2700K processor. Does this have any adverse effects on the overclocking of the CPU in general?

Also just successfully flashed my BIOS to 1708 without issues. (Used the ASUS EZ Flash utility) (Very nice method i must add!)

Thanks!!


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> At the present I am using the integrated graphics on the 2700K processor. Does this have any adverse effects on the overclocking of the CPU in general?
> Also just successfully flashed my BIOS to 1708 without issues. (Used the ASUS EZ Flash utility) (Very nice method i must add!)
> Thanks!!


I can't comment directly on the 2700K, but I have my 3570K overclocked to 4.5GHz right now, and I haven't noticed any issues using the iGPU (I don't have a dedicated GPU yet).


----------



## ZeVo

Is there anyone here that doesn't have the two fans installed on the mobo? Would I see a big difference in temps if I didn't install them?


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> I think that's one of the best quality cases you can buy here in the US, too. But given you're in Argentina, things like that are more difficult to come by. My wife, who's not from the US says that all the time. Post some updated pics when you're done with that bad boy.


Tell her that your wife's absolutely right in saying that.

Also tell you that there are many things here that aren't achieved in USA ... I mean, for example, a boy here for Phase Change controllers manufactured and sold to the U.S. or Europe. Programmed controller and all that ... And commenting on the forums as foreigners, the parent who made here was much better than the original Prometeia or others Phase Change controllers ...

Not much to tell... Because as you know the bitc* "Kretina" has blocked all imports... A kick in the balls the truth.
I can't wait that splitting!

Usually from that blocked imports aren't entering anything at all and are closing several local computer parts.

The truth was lucky to get the last Lili in stock









Indeed, one could guide me on how best to have an i5 3570K configured on ASUS Sabertooth Z77?
Since my wife and I usually use the PC for Internet, is on 24/7/365...
And wanted to know if I should have enabled Intel SpeedStep along with TurboBoost, as the processor goes with it activated at 3.8 GHz

As I recommend configuring everything?

Given that little or no OC, but my idea isn't to OC for now.

Thanks!


----------



## Wookieelover

thanks for the help.
I'm planning something very special for my Sabertooth.


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Is there anyone here that doesn't have the two fans installed on the mobo? Would I see a big difference in temps if I didn't install them?


Why not install them? They don't make much noise at all, power use is not an issue.

My 2 cents


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Why not install them? They don't make much noise at all, power use is not an issue.
> My 2 cents


I heard from others that the fans do get loud. That is my only concern.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I heard from others that the fans do get loud. That is my only concern.


You can easily set a fan profile where they won't come on until your VRM or other temps are reasonably high. Like this:



(I have fairly high ambient temps, and usually don't notice when they cycle on and off. Plus I think the "Fan Overtime" is a nice feature.)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> At the present I am using the integrated graphics on the 2700K processor. Does this have any adverse effects on the overclocking of the CPU in general?
> Also just successfully flashed my BIOS to 1708 without issues. (Used the ASUS EZ Flash utility) (Very nice method i must add!)
> Thanks!!


You MIGHT need more voltage for your OC, but apart from that, there are absolutely no downfalls from having it enabled, over disabled.
I should say for flashing bios - same here, I use EX flash, with the suiteII but then uninstall it immediately after lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Is there anyone here that doesn't have the two fans installed on the mobo? Would I see a big difference in temps if I didn't install them?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I heard from others that the fans do get loud. That is my only concern.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Why not install them? They don't make much noise at all, power use is not an issue.
> My 2 cents


I have both my fans not in.
After testing, those annoyingly loud, high-pitched fans only affect the motherboard temps by around 5c MAX.
And that's after 4hrs of STRAIGHT p95.
So 5c -> is nothing when you are hitting only 30-35c in the first place on your vram temps.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> You can easily set a fan profile where they won't come on until your VRM or other temps are reasonably high. Like this:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1158881/
> 
> (I have fairly high ambient temps, and usually don't notice when they cycle on and off. Plus I think the "Fan Overtime" is a nice feature.)


That's pretty cool! Thanks for the response. I will install the fans.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> At the present I am using the integrated graphics on the 2700K processor. Does this have any adverse effects on the overclocking of the CPU in general?
> 
> Also just successfully flashed my BIOS to 1708 without issues. (Used the ASUS EZ Flash utility) (Very nice method i must add!)
> 
> Thanks!!


For most moderate OC's (~4.5GHz) very little if at all. Maybe a little more vcore as *Dubbed* noted.

But if you plan on doing 5GHz runs or higher, then you will want it disabled for greater stability.


----------



## Gandyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ok the auto oc is pretty useless, I highly suggest doing a manual oc. Not only will it be more stable, but also will perform better.
> For example it would downclock my RAM.


Any advice you can give a first time OC'er (but advanced PC user) or a good guide that is easy to follow? (remembering i have sandy bridge)

Thanks for your reply and help


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Any advice you can give a first time OC'er (but advanced PC user) or a good guide that is easy to follow? (remembering i have sandy bridge)
> Thanks for your reply and help


here's an ivy bridge guide that I've used:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

Maybe in that section of the forum, you might be able to find sandy?
If not - it is relatively similar if I'm not mistaken (bios wise).
Also in my signature I got a link to my full bios settings, in case that helps out a little too!


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> So the Intel rapid storage tech etc that seem to scream "Install me because I make your SSD faster!!!" doesn't really do anything? I just spent 2 hours setting up the Lucid Virtu MVP, ran Heaven benchmark and 3d mark 11 with not a single point of score difference. It did increase the fps of games that were limited by Vsync .. but who cares? you cant see past your moniters refresh rate right? Seems to me all this 'perforamce boosting' software that ASUS offers doesn't actually do anything in reality!
> Also does anyone else use the motherboards auto overclocking tool in the bios? how does it rate compared to manual OC, I really like pressing one button and having it work but does it do much in reality?


If you have a small capacity SSD Intel RST improves the performance of your HDD. 64GB is the maximum recommend size, anything bigger you may as well use the SSD to install your OS (recommended). IRST uses your SSD as a cache drive to speed up boot time and opening frequently used programs, so doesn't improve SSD performance in any way.

I went this route when I first built my rig but ditched it when did a bit more research. I can get far faster speeds by just installing my OS and drivers and some small apps on the SSD. Everything else goes I run/store off my HDD.

Currently I'm running Win8 Pro off my 64GB M4 and I've got a 128 GB Samsung 840 Pro sitting on my desk just waiting to be used. So if you've got a SSD that's >=64GB, ditch IRST and install your OS in the SSD.

Ditch VirtuMVP, it's useless.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Tell her that your wife's absolutely right in saying that.
> Also tell you that there are many things here that aren't achieved in USA ... I mean, for example, a boy here for Phase Change controllers manufactured and sold to the U.S. or Europe. Programmed controller and all that ... And commenting on the forums as foreigners, the parent who made here was much better than the original Prometeia or others Phase Change controllers ...
> Not much to tell... Because as you know the bitc* "Kretina" has blocked all imports... A kick in the balls the truth.
> I can't wait that splitting!
> Usually from that blocked imports aren't entering anything at all and are closing several local computer parts.
> The truth was lucky to get the last Lili in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed, one could guide me on how best to have an i5 3570K configured on ASUS Sabertooth Z77?
> Since my wife and I usually use the PC for Internet, is on 24/7/365...
> And wanted to know if I should have enabled Intel SpeedStep along with TurboBoost, as the processor goes with it activated at 3.8 GHz
> As I recommend configuring everything?
> Given that little or no OC, but my idea isn't to OC for now.
> Thanks!


Yeah, I remember reading something early this year with the Falklands, man that's a difficult situation, like China and Taiwan. But didn't know that it's come to that though.









90% of the stuff we buy here in the US is made in China (or somewhere else) so if the company isn't reputable, you'll end up getting what you paid for, junk!!!







There's some things you can buy that's still made domestically, but you've got to search high and low and usually the prices are slightly higher because of overseas competition.

Don't enable the intel stuff, I highly recommend this thread for OC'ing your chip even if just a slight OC. You can do the same thing with better performance than the Intel stuff. Will also help you get familiar with this awesome mobo!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/1130#post_18741438

Good luck


----------



## aidenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> If you have a small capacity SSD Intel RST improves the performance of your HDD. 64GB is the maximum recommend size, anything bigger you may as well use the SSD to install your OS (recommended). IRST uses your SSD as a cache drive to speed up boot time and opening frequently used programs, so doesn't improve SSD performance in any way.
> I went this route when I first built my rig but ditched it when did a bit more research. I can get far faster speeds by just installing my OS and drivers and some small apps on the SSD. Everything else goes I run/store off my HDD.
> Currently I'm running Win8 Pro off my 64GB M4 and I've got a 128 GB Samsung 840 Pro sitting on my desk just waiting to be used. So if you've got a SSD that's >=64GB, ditch IRST and install your OS in the SSD.
> Ditch VirtuMVP, it's useless.


Doesn't not installing RST make your drives (set to AHCI) detect as USB? At least mine do that. Speeds are also a bit impaired (but not much).


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I found intel burn-in test quite good for testing temps, however prime 95 the best for stability testing.
> As for OC'ing guides don't know about the sandys but for ivy - here's swag's awesome guide:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
> I also encourage you to copy my prime 95 settings and possibly bios:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> And no problem for the questions


Dubbed, I copied your BIOS settings into AI Tweaker and ran Prime95. BSOD after 3-4 minutes

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.1
Locale ID: 1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 124
BCP1: 0000000000000000
BCP2: FFFFFA80191AC028

BCP3: 00000000BE000000
BCP4: 0000000000800400
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 256_1

It is strange that when I adjust the BIOS in the BIOS I get crashes,
But the TurboV EVO overclocked automatically and it ran fine. Then again
I haven't tried to match these exact settings in the BIOS

Any suggestions? Do I need more Vcore?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Dubbed, I copied your BIOS settings into AI Tweaker and ran Prime95. BSOD after 3-4 minutes
> Problem signature:
> Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
> OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.1
> Locale ID: 1033
> Additional information about the problem:
> BCCode: 124
> BCP1: 0000000000000000
> BCP2: FFFFFA80191AC028
> BCP3: 00000000BE000000
> BCP4: 0000000000800400
> OS Version: 6_1_7601
> Service Pack: 1_0
> Product: 256_1
> It is strange that when I adjust the BIOS in the BIOS I get crashes,
> But the TurboV EVO overclocked automatically and it ran fine. Then again
> I haven't tried to match these exact settings in the BIOS
> Any suggestions? Do I need more Vcore?


More vcore, and ignore aiSuite2...


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> More vcore, and ignore aiSuite2...


Your Vcore was 1.265, I raised mine to 1.275 and still BSOD. I assume that is not enough?

Going to try 1.285v (Small increments is the correct way...?)

Also the BCCode:124 means add Vcore correct?

Thanks


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aidenn*
> 
> Doesn't not installing RST make your drives (set to AHCI) detect as USB? At least mine do that. Speeds are also a bit impaired (but not much).


You have to set your drives to RAID when using RST. When using RST the OS doesn't even show the SSD as a "drive" so shouldn't be seen as a USB b/c you're pluging the SSD and HDD in to the brown Intel SATA ports, you're probably thinking about smart boost that's built into the OS, but I could be wrong.

Set disks to AHCI when running everything off your SSD, unless you're doing a RIAD array.

Regarding your speeds being impaired a little, I would disagree in light of RST versus raw SSD performance, it's noticeably faster on an SSD.

Also forgot to mention that if your system crashes and have to do system recovery, the data in the SSD, say bye bye and be prepared to re-install everything. It happen to me that's why I went to OS on the SSD route.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Your Vcore was 1.265, I raised mine to 1.275 and still BSOD. I assume that is not enough?
> Going to try 1.285v (Small increments is the correct way...?)
> Also the BCCode:124 means add Vcore correct?
> Thanks


indeed at least I think so - try going to stock/auto ram timings too!

here - some googling rendered this good thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1120291/solving-fixing-bsod-124-on-sandybridge-read-op-first


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> indeed at least I think so - try going to stock/auto ram timings too!
> here - some googling rendered this good thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1120291/solving-fixing-bsod-124-on-sandybridge-read-op-first


So I raised voltage to 1.32v, set the PLL voltage to 1.8, VCCSA to 0.925
Ran Prime95 for 20 minutes NO BSOD. (will run longer, but 20 min is a good sign)

Now the only thing that concerns me is the CPU temp reading, averages about 58c, but core #2 sometimes runs as much as
9c hotter. I have a pretty hefty liquid cooling system. XSPC Raystorm with a triple radiator double thick.
Did I use to much Artic Silver 5? Don't know how I couldn't have mounted the Water-block wrong.

Those temps are by HWMonitor. ASUS temps say its running about 45c.

Thanks









P.S. In HWMonitor what are the CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps, they said 127c. What the heck is that about?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> indeed at least I think so - try going to stock/auto ram timings too!
> here - some googling rendered this good thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1120291/solving-fixing-bsod-124-on-sandybridge-read-op-first
> 
> 
> 
> So I raised voltage to 1.32v, set the PLL voltage to 1.8, VCCSA to 0.925
> Ran Prime95 for 20 minutes NO BSOD. (will run longer, but 20 min is a good sign)
> 
> Now the only thing that concerns me is the CPU temp reading, averages about 58c, but core #2 sometimes runs as much as
> 9c hotter. I have a pretty hefty liquid cooling system. XSPC Raystorm with a triple radiator double thick.
> Did I use to much Artic Silver 5? Don't know how I couldn't have mounted the Water-block wrong.
> 
> Those temps are by HWMonitor. ASUS temps say its running about 45c.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. In HWMonitor what are the CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps, they said 127c. What the heck is that about?
Click to expand...

I think *Dubbed's* settings you used were for a Ivy Bridge and not a Sandy Bridge, and if so that explains why you needed to add more vcore. Sandy's need more vcore to run than Ivy's. The rest of the settings are fine.

On the temps, first, do not rely on HWMonitor for those CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps (they are wrong), nor even for your CPU temps. The two best programs for temps are RealTemp and CoreTemp. You can google and download them for free and I would if I were you if you ever want some good temp readings, as other programs often read temps too low, which is a bad thing.

Sandy's have a TJMax of 97C, but can run safely below that in the 60-70C range. For your 4.3GHz 58C as you top temp with prime95 would be fine, but if you have one core on a Sandy that is 9C higher than the others, then that would seem like a problem to me. Ivy's often have such variances between cores, but not Sandy's as much.

If only one core is extra hot, then it might be TIM application not even across the IHS or the HSF not being fully succured. At least that is what I would think if it was my system and where I would start to look.


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I think *Dubbed's* settings you used were for a Ivy Bridge and not a Sandy Bridge, and if so that explains why you needed to add more vcore. Sandy's need more vcore to run than Ivy's. The rest of the settings are fine.
> On the temps, first, do not rely on HWMonitor for those CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps (they are wrong), nor even for your CPU temps. The two best programs for temps are RealTemp and CoreTemp. You can google and download them for free and I would if I were you if you ever want some good temp readings, as other programs often read temps too low, which is a bad thing.
> Sandy's have a TJMax of 97C, but can run safely below that in the 60-70C range. For your 4.3GHz 58C as you top temp with prime95 would be fine, but if you have one core on a Sandy that is 9C higher than the others, then that would seem like a problem to me. Ivy's often have such variances between cores, but not Sandy's as much.
> If only one core is extra hot, then it might be TIM application not even across the IHS or the HSF not being fully succured. At least that is what I would think if it was my system and where I would start to look.


Actually I am running @ 4.5GHz with a 58c average according to HWMonitor. I will try the two temp programs you mentioned.

Thank for the info


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> So I raised voltage to 1.32v, set the PLL voltage to 1.8, VCCSA to 0.925
> Ran Prime95 for 20 minutes NO BSOD. (will run longer, but 20 min is a good sign)
> Now the only thing that concerns me is the CPU temp reading, averages about 58c, but core #2 sometimes runs as much as
> 9c hotter. I have a pretty hefty liquid cooling system. XSPC Raystorm with a triple radiator double thick.
> Did I use to much Artic Silver 5? Don't know how I couldn't have mounted the Water-block wrong.
> Those temps are by HWMonitor. ASUS temps say its running about 45c.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. In HWMonitor what are the CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps, they said 127c. What the heck is that about?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I think *Dubbed's* settings you used were for a Ivy Bridge and not a Sandy Bridge, and if so that explains why you needed to add more vcore. Sandy's need more vcore to run than Ivy's. The rest of the settings are fine.
> On the temps, first, do not rely on HWMonitor for those CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps (they are wrong), nor even for your CPU temps. The two best programs for temps are RealTemp and CoreTemp. You can google and download them for free and I would if I were you if you ever want some good temp readings, as other programs often read temps too low, which is a bad thing.
> Sandy's have a TJMax of 97C, but can run safely below that in the 60-70C range. For your 4.3GHz 58C as you top temp with prime95 would be fine, but if you have one core on a Sandy that is 9C higher than the others, then that would seem like a problem to me. Ivy's often have such variances between cores, but not Sandy's as much.
> If only one core is extra hot, then it might be TIM application not even across the IHS or the HSF not being fully succured. At least that is what I would think if it was my system and where I would start to look.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Actually I am running @ 4.5GHz with a 58c average according to HWMonitor. I will try the two temp programs you mentioned.
> Thank for the info


agreed with PCwargamer!
I think I did mention core temp, but in case I didn't, then yes real and core temp are great monitoring programs.
As for 127c - hahahahaha you're not the only one, don't worry -I had it too, got me worried for a while, but then I laughed it off:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1310551/asus-z77-127-degrees-someone-help-me-laugh-this-off-plz


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I think *Dubbed's* settings you used were for a Ivy Bridge and not a Sandy Bridge, and if so that explains why you needed to add more vcore. Sandy's need more vcore to run than Ivy's. The rest of the settings are fine.
> On the temps, first, do not rely on HWMonitor for those CPUTIN and AUXTIN temps (they are wrong), nor even for your CPU temps. The two best programs for temps are RealTemp and CoreTemp. You can google and download them for free and I would if I were you if you ever want some good temp readings, as other programs often read temps too low, which is a bad thing.
> Sandy's have a TJMax of 97C, but can run safely below that in the 60-70C range. For your 4.3GHz 58C as you top temp with prime95 would be fine, but if you have one core on a Sandy that is 9C higher than the others, then that would seem like a problem to me. Ivy's often have such variances between cores, but not Sandy's as much.
> If only one core is extra hot, then it might be TIM application not even across the IHS or the HSF not being fully succured. At least that is what I would think if it was my system and where I would start to look.


RealTemp looks much more accurate! At idle 2 cores are around 3 - 4c hotter, under Prime95 usually it is just one core that is varying around 7c +/-,
So tomorrow I am going to remove my water block, clean it and reapply Artic Silver 5. All the while careful to keep even pressure as I tighten it back down.

Pain in the butt


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> RealTemp looks much more accurate! At idle 2 cores are around 3 - 4c hotter, under Prime95 usually it is just one core that is varying around 7c +/-,
> So tomorrow I am going to remove my water block, clean it and reapply Artic Silver 5. All the while careful to keep even pressure as I tighten it back down.
> Pain in the butt


well i wouldn't be too worried about the temp differences, i get that too - I think it has to do with the spread of the thermal paste, and the cooler.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Actually I am running @ 4.5GHz with a 58c average according to HWMonitor. I will try the two temp programs you mentioned.
> 
> Thank for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RealTemp looks much more accurate! At idle 2 cores are around 3 - 4c hotter, under Prime95 usually it is just one core that is varying around 7c +/-,
> So tomorrow I am going to remove my water block, clean it and reapply Artic Silver 5. All the while careful to keep even pressure as I tighten it back down.
> 
> Pain in the butt


Well, if you are doing 4.5GHz, then the 58C looks even better!









Real Temp is what most OC'ers use. I thought you would like it.

Yeah, no fun having to redo it - hope it makes it better. You might want to try another TIM other than AS5 too. I'm liking Coollabotory Ultra as it cools ~3C+ better for me than AS5 did/does. There are other good ones besides them too that are better than AS5 you might want to consider. Check out recent TIM guides to see.

Let us know how it goes!


----------



## coffeinum31

Hey there!

I am new to the Forum, running a [email protected] on Sabertooth Z77 for quite some time now. I have HT disabled as I require it for some specific applications.
Since I had some issues with a RAID, I upgraded the Bios from 13something to 1708 recently. Seems buggy to me - HT disable had no effect whatsoever (Win7 still showing/using 8 threads); even did a CMOS reset to no avail. Flashed back 1616, works like before. Anyone running 1708 here and able to confirm that?

Coffeinum


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coffeinum31*
> 
> Hey there!
> 
> I am new to the Forum, running a [email protected] on Sabertooth Z77 for quite some time now. I have HT disabled as I require it for some specific applications.
> Since I had some issues with a RAID, I upgraded the Bios from 13something to 1708 recently. Seems buggy to me - HT disable had no effect whatsoever (Win7 still showing/using 8 threads); even did a CMOS reset to no avail. Flashed back 1616, works like before. Anyone running 1708 here and able to confirm that?
> 
> Coffeinum


Welcome to OCN!

I am running 1708. It's my second time using it (between it and 1616) as I am still checking it out.

I do have a 3770K that works with HT and without using HT though. Works in 1616 and 1708 for me.


----------



## aidenn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> You have to set your drives to RAID when using RST. When using RST the OS doesn't even show the SSD as a "drive" so shouldn't be seen as a USB b/c you're pluging the SSD and HDD in to the brown Intel SATA ports, you're probably thinking about smart boost that's built into the OS, but I could be wrong.
> Set disks to AHCI when running everything off your SSD, unless you're doing a RIAD array.
> Regarding your speeds being impaired a little, I would disagree in light of RST versus raw SSD performance, it's noticeably faster on an SSD.
> Also forgot to mention that if your system crashes and have to do system recovery, the data in the SSD, say bye bye and be prepared to re-install everything. It happen to me that's why I went to OS on the SSD route.


I mean all drives. Currently I have a Crucial M4 SSD as my main Windows drive as well as a WD Blue 500 GB as a secondary drive. SATA is set to AHCI (I'm not using RAID at all), both are plugged into the brown Intel 6G ports and unless I install RST they always show as removable devices in Windows 7 together with any USB I might have connected. After installing RST they disappear from the removable devices list.

I'm not looking for a solution though, I kinda like RST anyway and it does no harm to anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coffeinum31*
> 
> Hey there!
> I am new to the Forum, running a [email protected] on Sabertooth Z77 for quite some time now. I have HT disabled as I require it for some specific applications.
> Since I had some issues with a RAID, I upgraded the Bios from 13something to 1708 recently. Seems buggy to me - HT disable had no effect whatsoever (Win7 still showing/using 8 threads); even did a CMOS reset to no avail. Flashed back 1616, works like before. Anyone running 1708 here and able to confirm that?
> Coffeinum


I don't know about 1708, since I only have a 2500k and no HT to disable (though the BIOS itself is very good for me, POST takes like 1 second and I haven't had problems with anything), but 1616 is considered a bit crappy for OC, most people vouch for 1504 (and 1708) for stability and OC potential, so if you're downgrading you might as well go two steps back.


----------



## Wooojciech1983

I have Sabertooth Z77 with i7-2600K. Just bought a single GTX 680 and decided to put it in the second slot because I think it just looks nicer there and there is more room between the card and the cpu cooler. But my card is running in that second slot at PCIE 2.0 x8 . I thought Sabertooth offers 2 slots with x16. How can I force my single card to run at x16 in the second slot.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wooojciech1983*
> 
> I have Sabertooth Z77 with i7-2600K. Just bought a single GTX 680 and decided to put it in the second slot because I think it just looks nicer there and there is more room between the card and the cpu cooler. But my card is running in that second slot at PCIE 2.0 x8 . I thought Sabertooth offers 2 slots with x16. How can I force my single card to run at x16 in the second slot.


through the bios, if I'm not mistaken
There's the option there


----------



## Wooojciech1983

I don't think so. At least I can't find it. In the advanced options -> System Agent Configuration -> NB PCIE configuration there is only Auto/Gen2/Gen3 but this setting does not change the active lanes. Next to the PCIEX16_2 it just prints that it runs at x8 with no way to change it.


----------



## Gandyman

Am i just really ******ed or something but why is there no sandy bridge and z77 overclock guides? every guide i read presumes i have ivy? maybe if everyone could pitch in 50 bucks each or something i can upgrade from my 2700k to a 3770k and get the 5% performance increase for 500 bucks. lol (yes im mad btw!) well not really just frustrated!

so should i

A follow a p68 guide for sandy or
B follow a z77 guide for ivy

any help would be greatly appreciated! I really want to make the most of my K chip and this board and the h100!

thanks to all !


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wooojciech1983*
> 
> I have Sabertooth Z77 with i7-2600K. Just bought a single GTX 680 and decided to put it in the second slot because I think it just looks nicer there and there is more room between the card and the cpu cooler. But my card is running in that second slot at PCIE 2.0 x8 . I thought Sabertooth offers 2 slots with x16. How can I force my single card to run at x16 in the second slot.


The 2nd & 3rd PCIe x16 slot only have x8 "physical" connections. See at the back of Sabertooth Z77 motherboard:-
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1872/1/


----------



## Gandyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The 2nd & 3rd PCIe x16 slot only have x8 "physical" connections. See at the back of Sabertooth Z77 motherboard:-
> http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1872/1/


hey yea i can see that on the pic in that article with all the armor taken off. how does that effect sli performance?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Almost all Z77 boards are the same ... it makes next to no difference in performance. PCIE 3.0 X8 provides the same bandwidth as PCIE 2.0 X16 so it should not really be an issue.

Only the very top end boards use PLX chips to add PCI lanes and provide extra X16 slots like the ROG Maximus V Extreme, Gigabyte G1-Sniper3, etc

I see you are using a sandy bridge CPU so you are limited to PCIE 2.0 but it still won't make that much difference. Here are some comparisons in real games.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5458/the-radeon-hd-7970-reprise-pcie-bandwidth-overclocking-and-msaa


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aidenn*
> 
> I mean all drives. Currently I have a Crucial M4 SSD as my main Windows drive as well as a WD Blue 500 GB as a secondary drive. SATA is set to AHCI (I'm not using RAID at all), both are plugged into the brown Intel 6G ports and unless I install RST they always show as removable devices in Windows 7 together with any USB I might have connected. After installing RST they disappear from the removable devices list.
> I'm not looking for a solution though, I kinda like RST anyway and it does no harm to anything.


Looking back through my notes...yep...got it mixed up with Intel _SR_T (Smart Response Tech)







, that's Intel's caching solution where you set your drives to RAID. RST you setup the SATA ports to AHCI, so you're correct!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wooojciech1983*
> 
> I don't think so. At least I can't find it. In the advanced options -> System Agent Configuration -> NB PCIE configuration there is only Auto/Gen2/Gen3 but this setting does not change the active lanes. Next to the PCIEX16_2 it just prints that it runs at x8 with no way to change it.


for me when I change it to gen3 - it displays at the top x16 - isn't that what you are looking for?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The 2nd & 3rd PCIe x16 slot only have x8 "physical" connections. See at the back of Sabertooth Z77 motherboard:-
> http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1872/1/


Wow Z77 saber without armour looks ugly - makes me happier about my purchase even more then 








I hate the "old school look" of motherboards. I like something a little different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Am i just really ******ed or something but why is there no sandy bridge and z77 overclock guides? every guide i read presumes i have ivy? maybe if everyone could pitch in 50 bucks each or something i can upgrade from my 2700k to a 3770k and get the 5% performance increase for 500 bucks. lol (yes im mad btw!) well not really just frustrated!
> so should i
> A follow a p68 guide for sandy or
> B follow a z77 guide for ivy
> any help would be greatly appreciated! I really want to make the most of my K chip and this board and the h100!
> thanks to all !


I suggest the Z77 guide.
As for why there's no sandy guides:
Because it is a "dated chip" and thus isn't really carried through to new-gen-esk motherboards.
Don't get me wrong sandy's are amazing, and in fact to some extent better for OC'ing - but heck I have no idea lol


----------



## aidenn

Yep, just go with Ivy guide. Besides the temperatures (don't go over 72 C) it's pretty much the same as far as the BIOS is concerned. Just don't copy any Ivy settings straight to your BIOS, go with small increments as always.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wooojciech1983*
> 
> I have Sabertooth Z77 with i7-2600K. Just bought a single GTX 680 and decided to put it in the second slot because I think it just looks nicer there and there is more room between the card and the cpu cooler. But my card is running in that second slot at PCIE 2.0 x8 . I thought Sabertooth offers 2 slots with x16. How can I force my single card to run at x16 in the second slot.


I'm doing the same thing. The difference between x8 and x16 is completely negligible though, so you can just ignore that and enjoy lower temperatures.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wooojciech1983*
> 
> I have Sabertooth Z77 with i7-2600K. Just bought a single GTX 680 and decided to put it in the second slot because I think it just looks nicer there and there is more room between the card and the cpu cooler. But my card is running in that second slot at PCIE 2.0 x8 . I thought Sabertooth offers 2 slots with x16. How can I force my single card to run at x16 in the second slot.


*Wooojciech1983*, you will be fine running your 680 at 8x as the performance difference between that and 16x for that card is tiny. So if you want it to show 16x you will have to move it to the first slot that supports 16x.

But if you like how it looks where you have it now then leave it there as you will not see any difference in performance.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Am i just really ******ed or something but why is there no sandy bridge and z77 overclock guides? every guide i read presumes i have ivy? maybe if everyone could pitch in 50 bucks each or something i can upgrade from my 2700k to a 3770k and get the 5% performance increase for 500 bucks. lol (yes im mad btw!) well not really just frustrated!
> 
> so should i
> 
> A follow a p68 guide for sandy or
> B follow a z77 guide for ivy
> 
> any help would be greatly appreciated! I really want to make the most of my K chip and this board and the h100!
> 
> thanks to all !


Use the Z77 *Gandyman*, BUT you will need to use higher vcore for a Sandy Bridge than a Ivy Bridge. All the other settings will be fine besides that, so you're good.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aidenn*
> 
> Besides the temperatures (don't go over 72 C) ...


I'm assuming you're talking about Tcase. Well, don't worry about Tcase because you can't monitor it anyway. CPU thermal throttling is totally controlled by TJmax. If the CPU operates in Intel specification, it will operates without thermal throttling as long as the core temperature doesn't exceeds TJmax. (Check TJmax for your CPU using Real Temp. Read one of the cores for temperature & "distance to TJmax. For example, temperature 39C & "distance to TJmax" 61C, So, TJmax is 39 + 61 = 100C). When core temperature reached TJmax, thermal throttling will be activated. This is when CPU frequency reduced until core temperature back to safe operating temperature. If somehow CPU temperature still increased, Thermal Trip signal will be activated where CPU will stop all execution when it reached 130C.

When overclock, frequency, voltage, etc changed. Just make sure the voltage is not ridiculously high & cooling system is capable in handling extra heat from CPU & VRM.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Hey dude Im not an authority on it but as far as Im aware the safe operating temperatures is well above what you are experiencing. Also your ambient room temperature maybe what is making it a bit hotter then what you read.
> As for the thermal paste (again on not an authority) but I feel you may have overdone it, a very very small blob in the middle of your CPU seems to be the recommended.
> Lastly if you are worried that much about it aftermarket CPU coolers are quite cheap (in comparison to what you spent on the CPU)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181032
> New corsair H100i only 120 bucks and thats top of the line, price only goes down from there.
> Good luck with your build man!


thanks for the link bro. i already ordered water block kit for my computer but i have to wait a bit longer for stock to arrive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm actually surprised that you have a nice build with a terrible cooler!
> Are you sure those temps are cpu temps and not motherboard ones? As they are separate things!


im too excited to power up my computer
cant wait for my water block kit to arrive








Maybe the problem is my thermal paste. But ill leave it for the meantime, i don't want to mess with it anymore i might break it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> sorry double post...


those are motherboard temps, not CPU ones.
DO NOT OC with a stock cooler...


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> sorry double post...
> 
> 
> 
> those are motherboard temps, not CPU ones.
> DO NOT OC with a stock cooler...
Click to expand...

^^^
Totally agree - do not OC with a stock cooler!!!

They are not made for that and you can damage your chip real fast.

Get a copy of RealTemp to see CPU temps. - check google for free download....


----------



## Aero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ah ha!
> Yes get your components in - I'm sure all will be fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerStripes*
> 
> The one long two short beep sequence is definitely the no memory detected code. So get your RAM and you'll be all set!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to have helped!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> RAM should be fine...
> But the CPU may be an issue...
> Look for a thin white bar code sticker along the edge of the mobo, the last 4 numbers will indicate the bios version the board shipped with.
> You'll need at least version 1015 to support that CPU.


Dubber, Tiger, Grunion,

Just wanted to report back that I installed memory and board posted fine and I am up and going. So anyone checking sabertooth with no ram memory installed may see 1 short + 2 long beeps and this is not indicative of a problem absent ram.

One small annoyance is that one of the accessory fans is DOA and Asus policy on this is not consumer friendly. Essentially they gave ma a run around saying I had to send enitre board back. I told them I had trouble shot it before calling by swapping fans and that the pinout was fine and it was just the fan, but they said they will not take a fan back alone for RMA. I will grab one off of ebay as they are about $5.

My set up at this point:
MB: Sabertooth z77 1155, 1504 bios
Case: Coolermaster full HAF 932 advanced
CPU: Core i3 3225 3.3GHz LGA 1155
PSU: Seasonic MI12 II 620 Bronze
Mem: 4Gx2|G.SKILL F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
OS: win 8 pro/technet
GPU: onboard 4000 only
Boot:128G|SAMSUNG MZ-7PC128N/AM for OS
Storage:
3X WD Red 3TB
2X 2 TB Hitachi
1x 1TB WD
Room for 5 more HDDs

9TB Storage space, no redundancy nor resiliency, as for media sharing and scratch space (also baked elsewhere)
3TB Storage space with Resiliency for work files and family files (also backed elsewhere)

Usage is 90% media file serving with some trans-coding I am not using raid or Win 8 mirroring because I prefer to back files on other side of home. (three 4TB hitachi externals I picked up for $170 each attached to a different machine)

Thanks again for your input.


----------



## Aero1

FYI, I am sure the experts know this but if you are using large format low RPM fans in your case you will get bangs on fan speed, but minimum speed for alarm bang can be set in bios fixing that issue.


----------



## grunion

^^ I heard that fan call today , maybe around 5-6 eastern time?


----------



## Aero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> ^^ I heard that fan call today , maybe around 5-6 eastern time?


That is too funny. Anyway I dont mean the Support guy was the problem. He was very nice, very professional, and I am sure has to follow policy. It is that Asus policy seems to be that I have to pay to send it and pay $10 shipping to get the return. seems to me if I sent it in at a shipping cost of $1, and they can see for certain it is DOA, they should not charge me anything for return shipping of working part.. As the retailer would also require a full return, which would be a huge waste to Asus (re-certifying, repacking) , the retailer (taking a return of a perfect board), not to mention my time in disassembly, waiting and reassembly, ti seems to me that the best solution would be simply to send me a fan.After determining it was DOA it seems no otehr cost such as $10 return shipping shoudl go to the customer. I realize margins are tight, but I dont think it is fair to charge customers return shipping of a part is determined to be doa from new in box.

Perhaps it is my outlook a*dmittedly coming from a sector with higher margins.
*
Again if that was you I found your responses professional, expert, and polite. It is just the policy that surprised and dismayed me.


----------



## grunion

Nah wasn't me, if it was the call I heard then it was Robbie.
I had to have strings pulled by higher ups to get my accessory pack, I know how you feel.


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Well, if you are doing 4.5GHz, then the 58C looks even better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Real Temp is what most OC'ers use. I thought you would like it.
> Yeah, no fun having to redo it - hope it makes it better. You might want to try another TIM other than AS5 too. I'm liking Coollabotory Ultra as it cools ~3C+ better for me than AS5 did/does. There are other good ones besides them too that are better than AS5 you might want to consider. Check out recent TIM guides to see.
> Let us know how it goes!





Cleaned water-block and CPU surface and reapplied Arctic silver 5 exactly per the instructions.
During idle 2 of the cores run as much as 4c hotter, during load 1 core runs 6-7c hotter. That doesn't seem right but...
Its a little better than before but..... (of course the temps should drop a little after about 200hrs per arctic silver)
I have a pretty hefty liquid cooling system: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16894/ex-wat-222/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
How much pressure should there be on the CPU from the water-block?
Just seems like it should be cooler. I do have 32GB of G-Skill RAM running under speed at 1600MHz instead of its 1866MHz rating. 10-11-10-30 @1.5v. Does that much RAM make a difference is CPU temps?

Thanks all









P.S. My goal is to OC to 5GHz, but I would settle for 4.8GHz. Realistic?


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> As I recall, in BIOS under monitoring there is each fan, and each has an enable and disable, fan alarm RPM, and fan speed option.
> The fan speed option has four choices - silent, standard, turbo, and manual.
> Under the manual choice you can enter some info for temps and fan speeds for min and max temps and speeds.
> It has all the fans including the cpu opt. fan so maybe that will work for you.
> Check it out and let us know if that works for you or not.


Ok found the custom fan setting in the bios. There's no place to set the the cpu opt'l fan to manual so I think in a push/pull configuration the cpu opt'l fan works in tandom with the cpu fan. Unfortunately, I can't validate my assumption because I only have one pwm fan, the rest are 3-pin.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Just seems like it should be cooler. I do have 32GB of G-Skill RAM running under speed at 1600MHz instead of its 1866MHz rating. 10-11-10-30 @1.5v. Does that much RAM make a difference is CPU temps?
> Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. My goal is to OC to 5GHz, but I would settle for 4.8GHz. Realistic?


very nice temps!
Realistic OC too!

RAM will have no effect on CPU temps, only motherboard temps - but it is so little that it is negligible.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Just seems like it should be cooler. I do have 32GB of G-Skill RAM running under speed at 1600MHz instead of its 1866MHz rating. 10-11-10-30 @1.5v. Does that much RAM make a difference is CPU temps?
> Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. My goal is to OC to 5GHz, but I would settle for 4.8GHz. Realistic?
> 
> 
> 
> very nice temps!
> Realistic OC too!
> 
> RAM will have no effect on CPU temps, only motherboard temps - but it is so little that it is negligible.
Click to expand...

*zandar* - what *Dubbed* said above! You are looking fine.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> As I recall, in BIOS under monitoring there is each fan, and each has an enable and disable, fan alarm RPM, and fan speed option.
> The fan speed option has four choices - silent, standard, turbo, and manual.
> Under the manual choice you can enter some info for temps and fan speeds for min and max temps and speeds.
> It has all the fans including the cpu opt. fan so maybe that will work for you.
> Check it out and let us know if that works for you or not.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok found the custom fan setting in the bios. There's no place to set the the cpu opt'l fan to manual so I think in a push/pull configuration the cpu opt'l fan works in tandom with the cpu fan. Unfortunately, I can't validate my assumption because I only have one pwm fan, the rest are 3-pin.
Click to expand...

You are right *Inacoma79*. I looked next time I was in BIOS and saw the same thing too. I have not been able to test it either due to same 3-pin fan issue....


----------



## jfry94

Can i join? http://www.overclock.net/t/1330008/project-arctic-storm/0_100#post_18749450

Is it normal for my motherboard temp to be 4-7 degrees higher than my cpu when i got itunes and chrome open?

I have a 3770k stock speeds with the stock cooler.

Motherboard is 33 degrees
cpu is 26-29 degrees


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> Can i join? http://www.overclock.net/t/1330008/project-arctic-storm/0_100#post_18749450
> Is it normal for my motherboard temp to be 4-7 degrees higher than my cpu when i got itunes and chrome open?
> I have a 3770k stock speeds with the stock cooler.
> Motherboard is 33 degrees
> cpu is 26-29 degrees


Seems normal enough. Just don't overclock or do heavy duty things with that rubbish cooler.


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> very nice temps!
> Realistic OC too!
> RAM will have no effect on CPU temps, only motherboard temps - but it is so little that it is negligible.


I upped the Vcore to 1.340v with a x46 multiplier and ran at 4.6GHz under prime95 for 30 min then stopped test myself.
Could the AI Suite II temp monitor interfere with RealTemps readings? I think I'll uninstall it. Still seems the temps should be lower.

Ok, this is how fast the new computer is compared to my old, but once state of the art AMD X2 dual-core 2.2GHZ computer. It took the old machine nearly 6 hours to render 39 layers of 1920x1080 animations (24fps) into a single uncompressed 1080p video file in Adobe After Effects CS3.

My new machine(last night @ 4.5GHz) running After Effects CS6 did the job in 6 and a half minutes!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES THAT IS CORRECT!! That is even just using the built-in graphics (iGPU) of the CPU.
I believe that is 5438% more efficient.

What is the max safe temp for a Sandy Bridge 2700k?
Load line Calibration setting?

Thanks all








Below are a few pics
(would like to hit 4.8GHZ today and probably call it good, if temps allow)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^looks great, and an insane performance increase!

TJ max I think is around 95c for sandy, if I'm not mistaken?
You can check this via real temps anyway!









As for interference of temps -> no it shouldn't, but more so real temp vs asus suite2 have 2 different readings.
As I can't emphasise enough - aisuite2 only looks at your MOTHERBOARD temps, and not CPU ones.
The CPU ones are monitored via real temps and core temp (at least to a better extent)


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> very nice temps!
> Realistic OC too!
> RAM will have no effect on CPU temps, only motherboard temps - but it is so little that it is negligible.
> 
> 
> 
> I upped the Vcore to 1.340v with a x46 multiplier and ran at 4.6GHz under prime95 for 30 min then stopped test myself.
> Could the AI Suite II temp monitor interfere with RealTemps readings? I think I'll uninstall it. Still seems the temps should be lower.
> 
> Ok, this is how fast the new computer is compared to my old, but once state of the art AMD X2 dual-core 2.2GHZ computer. It took the old machine nearly 6 hours to render 39 layers of 1920x1080 animations (24fps) into a single uncompressed 1080p video file in Adobe After Effects CS3.
> 
> My new machine(last night @ 4.5GHz) running After Effects CS6 did the job in 6 and a half minutes!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES THAT IS CORRECT!! That is even just using the built-in graphics (iGPU) of the CPU.
> I believe that is 5438% more efficient.
> 
> What is the max safe temp for a Sandy Bridge 2700k?
> Load line Calibration setting?
> 
> Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are a few pics
> (would like to hit 4.8GHZ today and probably call it good, if temps allow)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^looks great, and an insane performance increase!
> 
> TJ max I think is around 95c for sandy, if I'm not mistaken?
> You can check this via real temps anyway!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for interference of temps -> no it shouldn't, but more so real temp vs asus suite2 have 2 different readings.
> As I can't emphasise enough - aisuite2 only looks at your MOTHERBOARD temps, and not CPU ones.
> The CPU ones are monitored via real temps and core temp (at least to a better extent)


Nice looking rig and great performance improvements *zandar*. We all love SB and IB performance gains too.









TJMax for SB is 97C. You can run them safely in the 60-70C range 24/7. Try to keep them out of the 80C range except for short benching stuff, but not long term operations.

AI Suite II does not effect other temp reading software. Just use RealTemp or CoreTemp to get best cpu temps, and your current temps do not seem bad to me for your current 4.6GHz OC and 1.344 vcore.

Depending on what I am doing, I often keep my Load line Calibration at the setting just below max, but vary up or down it according to need and OC's.


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^looks great, and an insane performance increase!
> TJ max I think is around 95c for sandy, if I'm not mistaken?
> You can check this via real temps anyway!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for interference of temps -> no it shouldn't, but more so real temp vs asus suite2 have 2 different readings.
> As I can't emphasise enough - aisuite2 only looks at your MOTHERBOARD temps, and not CPU ones.
> The CPU ones are monitored via real temps and core temp (at least to a better extent)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Nice looking rig and great performance improvements *zandar*. We all love SB and IB performance gains too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TJMax for SB is 97C. You can run them safely in the 60-70C range 24/7. Try to keep them out of the 80C range except for short benching stuff, but not long term operations.
> AI Suite II does not effect other temp reading software. Just use RealTemp or CoreTemp to get best cpu temps, and your current temps do not seem bad to me for your current 4.6GHz OC and 1.344 vcore.
> Depending on what I am doing, I often keep my Load line Calibration at the setting just below max, but vary up or down it according to need and OC's.


THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS, greatly appreciated!!!









Going to try for 4.7 GHz !!
I'll let you know as soon as I get the results!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS, greatly appreciated!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to try for 4.7 GHz !!
> I'll let you know as soon as I get the results!


good luck!
And I'm jealous of those temps







!


----------



## zandar

As I stated before, 4.6GHz at 1.335v with LLC on Ultra High (75%) Rock Solid.
Now when i switched the multiplier to x47 and went up the scale in increments to 1.365v @4.7GHz it BSODs in seconds.
That is quite a voltage increase for a mere 100MHz not to be successful.
My CPU Fixed Frequency is set at 350
CPU Power Thermal Control is set to 130

Should i change the LLC to Extreme (100%), or should the Vcore be adjusted even higher?

Thanks again in advance


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> As I stated before, 4.6GHz at 1.335v with LLC on Ultra High (75%) Rock Solid.
> Now when i switched the multiplier to x47 and went up the scale in increments to 1.365v @4.7GHz it BSODs in seconds.
> That is quite a voltage increase for a mere 100MHz not to be successful.
> My CPU Fixed Frequency is set at 350
> CPU Power Thermal Control is set to 130
> Should i change the LLC to Extreme (100%), or should the Vcore be adjusted even higher?
> Thanks again in advance


I would increase vcore, and leave LLC








Remember that 100mhz extra isn't going to be noticeable


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Seems normal enough. Just don't overclock or do heavy duty things with that rubbish cooler.


I wont be until after christmas when il be watercooling the cpu and gpu, so i didnt see the point in spending £30+ on a air cooler

Is it possible to get a waterblock for this motherboard?


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would increase vcore, and leave LLC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that 100mhz extra isn't going to be noticeable


I was going to stop at 4.8GHz, but if it is going to take a huge amount of Vcore just to get 200MHz more..........
Just wanted 4.8 out of principle


----------



## Aero1

Guys,
With eight sata on board I doubt many have installed a controller card, but if so are there any recommendations? I can fit 10 hdds in my case and with one sata going to external I am considering a controller card with two or four internal sata. this is a non raid. Anyone recall any feedback? I haven't been able to find anything searching this thread. Just looking at newegg it is hard to find sata controller cards with ratings over two stars!


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aero1*
> 
> Guys,
> With eight sata on board I doubt many have installed a controller card, but if so are there any recommendations? I can fit 10 hdds in my case and with one sata going to external I am considering a controller card with two or four internal sata. this is a non raid. Anyone recall any feedback? I haven't been able to find anything searching this thread. Just looking at newegg it is hard to find sata controller cards with ratings over two stars!


Look at this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816103229
Just set the drives up as JBOD. Adaptec usually has pretty good products


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfry94*
> 
> I wont be until after christmas when il be watercooling the cpu and gpu, so i didnt see the point in spending £30+ on a air cooler
> Is it possible to get a waterblock for this motherboard?


I have this kit on my z77 Sabertooth: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16894/ex-wat-222/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
Pretty nice


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> As I stated before, 4.6GHz at 1.335v with LLC on Ultra High (75%) Rock Solid.
> Now when i switched the multiplier to x47 and went up the scale in increments to 1.365v @4.7GHz it BSODs in seconds.
> That is quite a voltage increase for a mere 100MHz not to be successful.
> My CPU Fixed Frequency is set at 350
> CPU Power Thermal Control is set to 130
> Should i change the LLC to Extreme (100%), or should the Vcore be adjusted even higher?
> Thanks again in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would increase vcore, and leave LLC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that 100mhz extra isn't going to be noticeable
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would increase vcore, and leave LLC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that 100mhz extra isn't going to be noticeable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to stop at 4.8GHz, but if it is going to take a huge amount of Vcore just to get 200MHz more..........
> Just wanted 4.8 out of principle
Click to expand...

The IB's often hit a OC freq wall where they just needs a bunch more vcore to go any further - often between 4.5-4.7GHz.

You can still push into the higher OC area with more vcore, but you will start to need a bunch more to do so, so don't be surprised at how much more you will need to get to 4.8 and beyond.

Temps will also start to be a major problem once you do this, so many of us OC'ers with IB's then delid our chips to vastly improve our temps (~20C plus better temps).

The extra 200-500Mhz (or more) gained is not much use for gaming or whatever, except for benching fun if your into that - and just seeing how far you can push your system. And even when you get to the higher OC's, it is often not very stable for any long-term use besides short benching runs. So we do it just for the fun of it.


----------



## Beakz

Add me to this shiiii! just got my Sabertooth in yesterday! bought it from newegg for $165 open boxed







now just to wait for the CPU and PSU XD


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> Add me to this shiiii! just got my Sabertooth in yesterday! bought it from newegg for $165 open boxed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now just to wait for the CPU and PSU XD


Nice! I don't have the guts to buy open box motherboards.


----------



## PhilippeLemay

Hey guys, not sure if I should be posting here or what, but here it goes.

I'm trying to setup Virtu MVP on my PC (I use a Z77 Sabertooth, an i5-3570K and a GTX 670). When I first set it all up I didn't have the nvidia card so I didn't need MVP, but now I'd like to try. I've heard that I need to turn on the integrated graphics via the UEFI, but I can't seem to find the settings to do that. Where do I find it? Is it in the regular UEFI or the advanced section?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Could the AI Suite II temp monitor interfere with RealTemps readings? I think I'll uninstall it. Still seems the temps should be lower.


Yes, this is known issue when running any monitoring software with AI Suite running in the background. You might see temperature 1xxC & VCORE 0.0xxV. That's just wrong reading, a glitch. I'd recommend uninstall AI Suite & use Real Temp or if you want fancy one, Open Hardware Monitor to monitor the temperature. Other tools you might like is HWiNFO64 & SIV.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Could the AI Suite II temp monitor interfere with RealTemps readings? I think I'll uninstall it. Still seems the temps should be lower.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, this is known issue when running any monitoring software with AI Suite running in the background. You might see temperature 1xxC & VCORE 0.0xxV. That's just wrong reading, a glitch. I'd recommend uninstall AI Suite & use Real Temp or if you want fancy one, Open Hardware Monitor to monitor the temperature. Other tools you might like is HWiNFO64 & SIV.
Click to expand...

*Kizwan*, interesting info about AI Suite interfering with RealTemp. I have never seen it or heard about it until now, but I would sure like to read more about it. Can you provide a link concerning this known problem?

On HWiNFO64, I find it reads CPU temps a bit lower than RealTemp and CoreTemp, but it has lots of other good info!


----------



## kizwan

The "known issue" is based on my experience on it & others as well. HWiNFO's author also confirmed this issue. See here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1217075/asus-p9x79-motherboard-owners-where-are-you-at/10#post_17510788

If it just between ~1 - ~3 degrees differences, it's normal. For everyday monitoring I use Open Hardware Monitor, it has nice widget/gadjet but when stress testing, I use Real Temp because the former a bit "heavy".


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The "known issue" is based on my experience on it & others as well. HWiNFO's author also confirmed this issue. See here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1217075/asus-p9x79-motherboard-owners-where-are-you-at/10#post_17510788
> 
> If it just between ~1 - ~3 degrees differences, it's normal. For everyday monitoring I use Open Hardware Monitor, it has nice widget/gadjet but when stress testing, I use Real Temp because the former a bit "heavy".


Very good. Ends up then I have seen it in HWMonitor but did not know the casue! Thanks for the link *kizwan*.

I notice it is in the upper area of the monitoring program though and not effecting the CPU temps in the lower section. Also, I have only encountered these kinds of problems when using the "heavy" type programs and not something more simple like RealTemp. So I do not think it is doing anything to mess with *zandar*, which I wanted to verify.

Thanks for sharing this info. +Rep


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhilippeLemay*
> 
> Hey guys, not sure if I should be posting here or what, but here it goes.
> I'm trying to setup Virtu MVP on my PC (I use a Z77 Sabertooth, an i5-3570K and a GTX 670). When I first set it all up I didn't have the nvidia card so I didn't need MVP, but now I'd like to try. I've heard that I need to turn on the integrated graphics via the UEFI, but I can't seem to find the settings to do that. Where do I find it? Is it in the regular UEFI or the advanced section?


Seems like the perfect place to ask the question to me









You need to go to the advanced mode indeed, then to "Advanced" --> "System Agent Configuration" --> "Graphics Configuration". The bottom setting ("iGPU Multi-Monitor") is the one I believe you should change (to enabled). Here's a screenshot of my settings (i5 2500K) that work fine with Virtu MVP:



(I currently have Virtu MVP disabled most of the time. It didn't lead to a massive performance increase (around 2%, from 44 to 44.9 AVG FPS, in a Heaven test with a GTX670 on stock clocks), and it caused some (minor) issues for me in some games)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I disabled virtu, as it screwed up some BF3 single player graphics. Everything went a little green and weird!
Vsnc can easily be enabled via the nvidia panel for example, iGPU use is useless, if you have a good GFX in the first place, and the other option isn't recommended.

Basically use virtu ONLY if you are using on-board graphics only.


----------



## zandar

Thanks again to everyone for the overclocking info,

There is an issue that has been bugging me since I set up z77 Sabertooth.
I can only get a video signal out of the on-board HDMI on the motherboard (HDMI to DVI)
I can not get video out of the on-board Displayport (DisplayPort to DVI)
Couldn't find anything in the BIOS, am i missing something or is it probably the cable?

Thanks


----------



## jfry94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> I have this kit on my z77 Sabertooth: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16894/ex-wat-222/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Dead-Water.html
> Pretty nice


sorry im after any info relating to a motherboard block like you can get for the rampage.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Thanks again to everyone for the overclocking info,
> There is an issue that has been bugging me since I set up z77 Sabertooth.
> I can only get a video signal out of the on-board HDMI on the motherboard (HDMI to DVI)
> I can not get video out of the on-board Displayport (DisplayPort to DVI)
> Couldn't find anything in the BIOS, am i missing something or is it probably the cable?
> Thanks


interesting - there might be an option in the graphics settings, but I wouldn't know.
Could well be the cable too. Let's see if anyone else had better input


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

Hello everyone,
I just upgraded my system, asus z77 sabertooth, i7 3770k, corsair dominator platinum 1866mhz 8gb(2x4gb) and my computer won't boot up. It powers on and I see the LED on the bottom of the board is solid green, the LED next to the "MemOK!" button is solid red. I read in the Manuel to hold it until it starts to blink so it can do tests, I think right after the first test it restarts right away then continues the test and led is blinking faster. To my understanding that means there's something wrong right? Is that memory not compatible with the motherboard? I have 16gb total(2 kits), when it's done with its tests the LED is solid red again. Help!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I just upgraded my system, asus z77 sabertooth, i7 3770k, corsair dominator platinum 1866mhz 8gb(2x4gb) and my computer won't boot up. It powers on and I see the LED on the bottom of the board is solid green, the LED next to the "MemOK!" button is solid red. I read in the Manuel to hold it until it starts to blink so it can do tests, I think right after the first test it restarts right away then continues the test and led is blinking faster. To my understanding that means there's something wrong right? Is that memory not compatible with the motherboard? I have 16gb total(2 kits), when it's done with its tests the LED is solid red again. Help!


something wrong with the RAM compatibility there.
Take a module our of the slot, and have only 1 module in the A2 slot (check manual to see where you put only 1 stick in)

There's only 3 things that it can be:
-Faulty RAM
-Incompatibility (although the dominator should be compatible, regardless of asus' stupid QVL list)
-Faulty motherboard slots (I hope not)

Try putting the ram, if possible in another motherboard or vice versa, putting other ram in your motherboard


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

I tried what you said to do and did the test. Same thing. After 2blinks in restarts and goes through the testing. But stays solid red after.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> I tried what you said to do and did the test. Same thing. After 2blinks in restarts and goes through the testing. But stays solid red after.


Ok i highly suggest trying to put it in another pc - it looks like it is either compatibility or your motherboard is faulty.

As it is HIGHLY unlikely that you have 2 faulty ram DIMMs


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ok i highly suggest trying to put it in another pc - it looks like it is either compatibility or your motherboard is faulty.
> As it is HIGHLY unlikely that you have 2 faulty ram DIMMs


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I just upgraded my system, asus z77 sabertooth, i7 3770k, corsair dominator platinum 1866mhz 8gb(2x4gb) and my computer won't boot up. It powers on and I see the LED on the bottom of the board is solid green, the LED next to the "MemOK!" button is solid red. I read in the Manuel to hold it until it starts to blink so it can do tests, I think right after the first test it restarts right away then continues the test and led is blinking faster. To my understanding that means there's something wrong right? Is that memory not compatible with the motherboard? I have 16gb total(2 kits), when it's done with its tests the LED is solid red again. Help!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> something wrong with the RAM compatibility there.
> Take a module our of the slot, and have only 1 module in the A2 slot (check manual to see where you put only 1 stick in)
> There's only 3 things that it can be:
> -Faulty RAM
> -Incompatibility (although the dominator should be compatible, regardless of asus' stupid QVL list)
> -Faulty motherboard slots (I hope not)
> Try putting the ram, if possible in another motherboard or vice versa, putting other ram in your motherboard


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> I tried what you said to do and did the test. Same thing. After 2blinks in restarts and goes through the testing. But stays solid red after.


I had my Sabertooth do this a couple days ago after swapping CPU coolers. I though it was a RAM compatibility issue after the system reset (my RAM isn't on the list, but it has been working just fine, working fine now), but I pulled a known working stick of DDR3 from another system in and still nothing. Tried one stick, 2 sticks, all of them, no config would get me anything other than a red light, even using the MemOK button.

I finally just got on my other machine, downloaded the 1708 BIOS file, renamed it as per ASUS, and used the flash back option. It took two tries, but I finally got it to boot. Not saying this will fix your issue, but it's an option.


----------



## Trackzilla

New here, waiting on my sabertooth z77 to arrive. I am hoping to stuff this into a 1U server case for a live audio 'mission critical' computer. I'd love to hear any caveats about the kit I've selected if anyone has any:
i5-3570K
Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP 8GB kit: BLT2K4G3D1608ET3LXD
Athena 400w Flex atx power: AP-MFATX40
Gelid Slim silence i-plus cooler
32GB OCZ SSD C drive
250GB WD Black storage drive

Traditionally I don't overclock, but I will likely play with it a bit during setup to see what the best balance for speed, heat, and stability is with my applications (Pro audio, not gaming)


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> I don't have that great of a chip, runs cool but >45x requires tons of voltage.
> Oh and bios 1708.


Just updated my 4.2 to 4.5 with your exact settings.

So far so good

Idle around 28.

Will play some BF3 and report

Update :

4.5 gave me problems. BF3 never launched

I just droped it .1 and made it 4.4

So far stable

Idle : 27

BF3 : 68

pretty good.


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackzilla*
> 
> New here, waiting on my sabertooth z77 to arrive. I am hoping to stuff this into a 1U server case for a live audio 'mission critical' computer. I'd love to hear any caveats about the kit I've selected if anyone has any:
> i5-3570K
> Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP 8GB kit: BLT2K4G3D1608ET3LXD
> Athena 400w Flex atx power: AP-MFATX40
> Gelid Slim silence i-plus cooler
> 32GB OCZ SSD C drive
> 250GB WD Black storage drive
> Traditionally I don't overclock, but I will likely play with it a bit during setup to see what the best balance for speed, heat, and stability is with my applications (Pro audio, not gaming)


Might check with ASUS, but that power supply seems a bit underpowered for your needs.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Might check with ASUS, but that power supply seems a bit underpowered for your needs.


If he's using the Intel HD 4000 integrated graphics and not a dedicated graphics card, I think he'll be fine. Even overclocked, the 3570K doesn't pull a whole lot of watts. It's like 77W TDP if I remember correctly.


----------



## Trackzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Might check with ASUS, but that power supply seems a bit underpowered for your needs.


I was a bit concerned about that as well, but as I plan on using only the onboard video, most reviews lead me to expect board & CPU consumption in the neighborhood 150W-ish, and this 400W was the beefiest Flex-ATX I could find on a brief look around...at least it's a bronze certified 400W


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Just updated my 4.2 to 4.5 with your exact settings.
> 
> So far so good
> 
> Idle around 28.
> 
> Will play some BF3 and report
> 
> Update :
> 
> 4.5 gave me problems. BF3 never launched
> 
> I just droped it .1 and made it 4.4
> 
> So far stable
> 
> Idle : 27
> BF3 : 68
> 
> pretty good.


Keep in mind that I have a very high vid cpu, so my offset is lower than most.
If you have a low vid cpu then you'll likely need more offset.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackzilla*
> 
> I was a bit concerned about that as well, but as I plan on using only the onboard video, most reviews lead me to expect board & CPU consumption in the neighborhood 150W-ish, and this 400W was the beefiest Flex-ATX I could find on a brief look around...at least it's a bronze certified 400W


400watt should be fine.
I have 750, but was told by MSI that 600w would be enough to power my system


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> I upped the Vcore to 1.340v with a x46 multiplier and ran at 4.6GHz under prime95 for 30 min then stopped test myself.
> Could the AI Suite II temp monitor interfere with RealTemps readings? I think I'll uninstall it. Still seems the temps should be lower.
> Ok, this is how fast the new computer is compared to my old, but once state of the art AMD X2 dual-core 2.2GHZ computer. It took the old machine nearly 6 hours to render 39 layers of 1920x1080 animations (24fps) into a single uncompressed 1080p video file in Adobe After Effects CS3.
> My new machine(last night @ 4.5GHz) running After Effects CS6 did the job in 6 and a half minutes!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES THAT IS CORRECT!! That is even just using the built-in graphics (iGPU) of the CPU.
> I believe that is 5438% more efficient.
> What is the max safe temp for a Sandy Bridge 2700k?
> Load line Calibration setting?
> Thanks all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are a few pics
> (would like to hit 4.8GHZ today and probably call it good, if temps allow)


Nice rig zandar








I run the same CPU as you with my Sabertooth.
I had my 2700k running at 4.8Ghz @ 1.395v, Memory @ 2133 on air for a number of months with no issues until recently so I dropped it down to 4.7Ghz @ 1.38v (will try lowering the core some more) and it's running nicely. Haven't run Prime95 for a long time but off the top of my head it was running mid to high 70c stable.
I'll Prime it soon to test temps again.
My rig is purely for gaming, BF3, dIRT3, F1 2012, Black OPS II. After a 10-12 hour session without rebooting PC, CPU temp would have hit a high of around high 50c - low 60c.
I'm waiting on the release in Australia of the Corsair H100i hoping for better temps.

My guess is you'll be able to hit 5Ghz by upping the vcore with that cooling setup of yours you should be safe.
Remember Prime95 is stressing it to the max so with you running your real world programs stable is the real test.
Good luck









P.S. I also had the AMD X2 many years ago, was a nice chip, this is my third intel build since


----------



## jktmas

ATTENTION
if you have changed anything in your system since you put your pics up, please post recent pics, i love this board in my build and im sure you do to, so show it off.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> [
> if you have changed anything in your system since you put your pics up, please post recent pics, i love this board in my build and im sure you do to, so show it off.


I have up-to-date bios settings, and my rig in my signature









There's also no need for that large font.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> ATTENTION
> if you have changed anything in your system since you put your pics up, please post recent pics, i love this board in my build and im sure you do to, so show it off.






Just needs a GPU...


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> I had my Sabertooth do this a couple days ago after swapping CPU coolers. I though it was a RAM compatibility issue after the system reset (my RAM isn't on the list, but it has been working just fine, working fine now), but I pulled a known working stick of DDR3 from another system in and still nothing. Tried one stick, 2 sticks, all of them, no config would get me anything other than a red light, even using the MemOK button.
> 
> I finally just got on my other machine, downloaded the 1708 BIOS file, renamed it as per ASUS, and used the flash back option. It took two tries, but I finally got it to boot. Not saying this will fix your issue, but it's an option.


Well i bought new ram today tried it. still didnt beep(boot). my keyboard and mouse dont light up(inactive). Did the bios flashback with the newest bios, it was named Z77ST.CAP already, still nothing. Im stumped, anymore ideas guys? dead board?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> Well i bought new ram today tried it. still didnt beep(boot). my keyboard and mouse dont light up(inactive). Did the bios flashback with the newest bios, it was named Z77ST.CAP already, still nothing. Im stumped, anymore ideas guys? dead board?


I'm thinking faulty board now :/


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackzilla*
> 
> New here, waiting on my sabertooth z77 to arrive. I am hoping to stuff this into a 1U server case for a live audio 'mission critical' computer. I'd love to hear any caveats about the kit I've selected if anyone has any:
> i5-3570K
> Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP 8GB kit: BLT2K4G3D1608ET3LXD
> Athena 400w Flex atx power: AP-MFATX40
> Gelid Slim silence i-plus cooler
> 32GB OCZ SSD C drive
> 250GB WD Black storage drive
> Traditionally I don't overclock, but I will likely play with it a bit during setup to see what the best balance for speed, heat, and stability is with my applications (Pro audio, not gaming)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> If he's using the Intel HD 4000 integrated graphics and not a dedicated graphics card, I think he'll be fine. Even overclocked, the 3570K doesn't pull a whole lot of watts. It's like 77W TDP if I remember correctly.


Yes, 400W PSU should be enough for Trackzilla's rig. BTW, 77W TDP is not referring to CPU power consumption but the amount of heat the CPU produced.

@Trackzilla, If this is mission critical computer, better replaced the PSU with better & trusted brand, e.g. Seasonic, Corsair, FSP, etc. I read one of the Athena PSU review, doesn't look good. Don't cheap out for the PSU.


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm thinking faulty board now :/


Damn







i cant RMA this board either, i bought it in june and now just bought all the other stuff







, looks like i will need to go buy a board tomorrow


----------



## Beakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Nice! I don't have the guts to buy open box motherboards.


When the price was that good I kinda just went for it... plus free shipping







all looks nice.. probably the only downside to buying an open boxed item would be not receiving some features eg the covers for ram.. oh and not getting the Sabertooth box...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> Damn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i cant RMA this board either, i bought it in june and now just bought all the other stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , looks like i will need to go buy a board tomorrow


Well considering you have tried changing RAM, nad it won't boot, my only guess is board related.
I sure hope not, but it looks like it, from what you are explaining.

Why can't you RMA it? This board has a 5year warranty, and should be covered from where you bought it from. ASUS are a paint to deal with though, avoid going via them at all costs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> When the price was that good I kinda just went for it... plus free shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all looks nice.. probably the only downside to buying an open boxed item would be not receiving some features eg the covers for ram.. oh and not getting the Sabertooth box...


oh no...the downside is buying a half-working board, and you not being able to RMA it with ease, as you have to go via ASUS, which is virtually impossible to do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Yes, 400W PSU should be enough for Trackzilla's rig. BTW, 77W TDP is not referring to CPU power consumption but the amount of heat the CPU produced.
> @Trackzilla, If this is mission critical computer, better replaced the PSU with better & trusted brand, e.g. Seasonic, Corsair, FSP, etc. I read one of the Athena PSU review, doesn't look good. Don't cheap out for the PSU.


Yup - never cheap out on PSU - last thing you want is it shorting your board


----------



## Trackzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> @Trackzilla, If this is mission critical computer, better replaced the PSU with better & trusted brand, e.g. Seasonic, Corsair, FSP, etc. I read one of the Athena PSU review, doesn't look good. Don't cheap out for the PSU.


I could find precious few options in a FlexATX PSU necessary to fit the 1U rackmount case that were larger than 200W...I did see a couple of reviews saying that the other Athena models tested were junk but this particular model actually held up to it's ratings at least, which admittedly tells nothing of longevity. The cases I have both came with Sparkle 200W units one of which has kacked driving the old audio computer. Willing to spring for a better unit, but I haven't found one yet, so if anyone has specific suggestions I'm all ears, meantime my best plan is to carry a spare.


----------



## kizwan

Yeah, it really hard to get not too expensive 1U PSU. There is some Athena PSU that get good review too. The one I saw got bad review is for ITX case. Usually if the PSU is bad, it only show it when it under heavy load. 400W is plenty, I think you'll only utilized half of it at most. The thing I'm worried with bad quality PSU is it can take out the entire hardware with it if it blow. To be honest I'm not familiar with server PSU. Athena might good making server PSU than PSU for PC. You might want to use UPS or voltage regulator just in case.


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131989/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131984/
> 
> Just needs a GPU...


Very nice stevo.
How does the H100i perform compared to what you had cooling your CPU before even running it with the two lower RPM fans you added???


----------



## Davitz

Here's my sabertooth and loop


----------



## Trackzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> YYou might want to use UPS or voltage regulator just in case.


Now there at least I return to being on top of the battle plan, It is fed by a Tripplite dual conversion online 2200va UPS, dedicated to just the computer & the audio processing brains, Power amps & band gear go to other AC sources. So pretty much the building AC power can do anything without my computer source power rippling at all.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> Very nice stevo.
> How does the H100i perform compared to what you had cooling your CPU before even running it with the two lower RPM fans you added???


Thanks! Well I was running the factory Intel cooler before I installed the H100i, so it was a night-and-day difference. I ended up switching to a full set of 4 - SP120s (High Performance). With just the two stock H100i fans, I was easily able to get a 4.3GHz OC on my 3570K, and max temp on a single core was around 75*, but that was before I dialed my voltage in. I've put 1.4v or more to it trying to pass 4.5GHz, and it never got above about 85* with the setup in push/pull. I have a fairly high ambient temp, so I'm happy with my lower temp, lower voltage (4.3GHz @ 1.2v) profile. This thing performs great.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Very nice rigs lads!


----------



## Bigjeep

Hi all,

I'm new here and all this is new to me. Just built my new system replacing my 8 year old pentium 4 system that has served me faithfully for all these years. But its long in the tooth and is now a "backup". I went with the Sabertooth Z77 with a i7-3770K Ivy Bridge and cooled with a Noctua NH-D14 in a Rosewill Thor case! I have searched these posts, but my eyes are starting to blurr!







Those fans on the motherboard are spinning at 4,500 plus all the time. How can I control them manually. Thanks for any help!


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjeep*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm new here and all this is new to me. Just built my new system replacing my 8 year old pentium 4 system that has served me faithfully for all these years. But its long in the tooth and is now a "backup". I went with the Sabertooth Z77 with a i7-3770K Ivy Bridge and cooled with a Noctua NH-D14 in a Rosewill Thor case! I have searched these posts, but my eyes are starting to blurr!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those fans on the motherboard are spinning at 4,500 plus all the time. How can I control them manually. Thanks for any help!


go to search thread and type in fan control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Depending on your overall components, the fans may or may not be noticeable. I keep my rig on the ground and run 6 case fans on top of my h100 cooler, so those 40mm I can't even hear... As far as disabling, just go into bios and in advanced mode toward the bottom you should see the option for "asst 1/2 fan" controls or something to that effect. *The 40mm fans your referring to run on the asst 1 and asst 2, and if you have them connected, can't be fully disabled to my knowledge. However, you have a couple options to minimize noise.
> First, if you enable the Q-fan control, you can then either set them to "silent" or "fan-off." Silent basically auto adjusts to run at lowest speeds depending on temps, and "fan-off" completely turns them off when mobo is idle or decreased past a certain temp.
> If you disable the q-fan control (out of box this is disabled), and your asst1/2 profile is set to manual, then you can adjust the upper temps to a higher setting so that it takes a hotter temp to cause them to run at max speeds.
> Also, by setting the lower temps at a higher degree, then it will cause the fans to run at minimum speeds at a higher threshhold.
> From here, just mess with your min/max duty cycles (i think min is 60%) to get the slowest speeds.*


The fans that come with the mobo are 35mm obviously. Just pointing that out for whoever reads that so no one gets confused.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjeep*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm new here and all this is new to me. Just built my new system replacing my 8 year old pentium 4 system that has served me faithfully for all these years. But its long in the tooth and is now a "backup". I went with the Sabertooth Z77 with a i7-3770K Ivy Bridge and cooled with a Noctua NH-D14 in a Rosewill Thor case! I have searched these posts, but my eyes are starting to blurr!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those fans on the motherboard are spinning at 4,500 plus all the time. How can I control them manually. Thanks for any help!


Either via AI Suite II, or via the bios bro


----------



## TheNovice

Hi guys... Some more questions relating the fan control on this board...

As I am about to upgrade MB, CPU, RAM etc. -I am leaning heavily towards the Sabertooth Z77.

In preparation for the hardware change I put my current system under water (will use the basic set up for the new hardware) and bought a fan controller to control all fans for the radiators and case
However I am very dissapointed with the controller. Doesn't really do what it should.
I bought the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 and the way it simulates/transorms a PWM signal into a voltage signal is just hopeless.

So this leads me to my question regarding the fan control on the Sabertooth. as I would like to use the board to do this job.
Can i control ALL fan headers individually (custom profiles etc.) related to CPU temp or will i need additional sensors?
Is it possible to use a Y-splitter with a fan header and still have control of the fans
Are here any other limitations to consider?

\M


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi guys... Some more questions relating the fan control on this board...
> As I am about to upgrade MB, CPU, RAM etc. -I am leaning heavily towards the Sabertooth Z77.
> In preparation for the hardware change I put my current system under water (will use the basic set up for the new hardware) and bought a fan controller to control all fans for the radiators and case
> However I am very dissapointed with the controller. Doesn't really do what it should.
> I bought the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 and the way it simulates/transorms a PWM signal into a voltage signal is just hopeless.
> So this leads me to my question regarding the fan control on the Sabertooth. as I would like to use the board to do this job.
> Can i control ALL fan headers individually (custom profiles etc.) related to CPU temp or will i need additional sensors?
> Is it possible to use a Y-splitter with a fan header and still have control of the fans
> Are here any other limitations to consider?
> \M


Q: Can i control ALL fan headers individually (custom profiles etc.) related to CPU temp or will i need additional sensors?

A: Yes, you can control each header individually with it's own custom fan speed profile based on any of the available temperature sensors on the mobo, which are many. For example:



Q: Is it possible to use a Y-splitter with a fan header and still have control of the fans?

A: Yes, I'm using one right now, and am having no issues. (It's the red sleeve that looks out of place







)





Q: Are here any other limitations to consider?

A: The cpu temperature is the socket temp, and there's no way to use the core temperatures in Thermal Radar. It will take a little getting used to, but you'll eventually get everything set like you want. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask here, or pm me. Good luck!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi guys... Some more questions relating the fan control on this board...
> 
> As I am about to upgrade MB, CPU, RAM etc. -I am leaning heavily towards the Sabertooth Z77.
> 
> In preparation for the hardware change I put my current system under water (will use the basic set up for the new hardware) and bought a fan controller to control all fans for the radiators and case
> However I am very dissapointed with the controller. Doesn't really do what it should.
> I bought the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 and the way it simulates/transorms a PWM signal into a voltage signal is just hopeless.
> 
> So this leads me to my question regarding the fan control on the Sabertooth. as I would like to use the board to do this job.
> Can i control ALL fan headers individually (custom profiles etc.) related to CPU temp or will i need additional sensors?
> Is it possible to use a Y-splitter with a fan header and still have control of the fans
> Are here any other limitations to consider?
> 
> \M


You can set temp/speed limit profiles for each fan in BIOS, and to even greater detail through AI Suite II - Thermal Radar settings in Windows.


----------



## tonkpils37

I have had a strange issue ever since I got my board. Everytime I power it on or shut it off the speakers make a loud pop. Anyone else with this issue or is there a fix?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonkpils37*
> 
> I have had a strange issue ever since I got my board. Everytime I power it on or shut it off the speakers make a loud pop. Anyone else with this issue or is there a fix?


speaker? Which speaker?
Could be case related.


----------



## tonkpils37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> speaker? Which speaker?
> Could be case related.


My desktop speakers. Its a loud pop


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonkpils37*
> 
> My desktop speakers. Its a loud pop


so when your desktop speakers are disconnected do you still hear this pop?
Trying to figure out where the pop is coming from etc.

More so, how are you connected and so on?


----------



## tonkpils37

I havent tried it with them disonnected..I am sure it wouldnt do it for the fact it wouldnt have anything for sound to come from. I have them hooked up in to the green output on the MOBO


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

I just went and bought a new board and the problem disappeared, i guess it was the board. Even using my corsair dominator platinum 1866mhz 16gb are working perfect!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonkpils37*
> 
> I havent tried it with them disonnected..I am sure it wouldnt do it for the fact it wouldnt have anything for sound to come from. I have them hooked up in to the green output on the MOBO


try a different socket - ie front header.
I'm wondering is it speaker related or motherboard related, and if so is it only the back panel, or the whole board.
Tried updating drivers too?


----------



## Gandyman

Hey guys, Sorry for not replying things have been hectic at work and I've been neglecting PC stuff for a bit. But thanks a ton to all you guys who answered my last post.

firstly :
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonkpils37*
> 
> I have had a strange issue ever since I got my board. Everytime I power it on or shut it off the speakers make a loud pop. Anyone else with this issue or is there a fix?


I have the same issue, I only have headphones connected atm, I just refrain from having them on when I power on the PC or my eardrums will burst with the loud crackle/pop. I figured it was Asus's way of suggesting I buy a sound card or something, either way it hasn't bothered be too much. But now I'm curious as to if this is a board issue or what.

secondly, what the hell:



Does this mean my cpu is underclocked from 3.5 to 1.6 lol ... im just ... yea really confused









Edit: fixed typos


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Hey guys, Sorry for not replying things have been hectic at work and I've been neglecting PC stuff for a bit. But thanks a ton to all you guys who answered my last post.
> firstly :
> I have the same issue, I only have headphones connected atm, I just refrain from having them on when I power on the PC or my eardrums will burst with the loud crackle/pop. I figured it was Asus's way of suggesting I buy a sound card or something, either way it hasn't bothered be too much. But now I'm curious as to if this is a board issue or what.
> secondly, what the hell:
> 
> Does this mean my cpu is underclocked from 3.5 to 1.6 lol ... im just ... yea really confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: fixed typos


That CPU-Z is the CPU downclocking itself to save power -> thus the C-States
Don't worry mine is the same









Put p95 and see it rocket up to your OC.


----------



## Gandyman

Those temperatures seem high for having a h100? Also that is just using the 'auto OC for me please" button in the bios lol.

what do you think?

Edit: what would happen if i just loaded our exact bios settings with my sandy bridge?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> 
> Those temperatures seem high for having a h100? Also that is just using the 'auto OC for me please" button in the bios lol.
> what do you think?
> Edit: what would happen if i just loaded our exact bios settings with my sandy bridge?


you'll probably get a BSOD, as sandy needs more volts







!

Temps seem super cool


----------



## Gandyman

Well the inbuilt OC thing in the mobo is sitting it on a happy 4.4+ with aboslutely no effort on my part whatsoever. (in your opinion) do you think its worth fiddling to get an extra 100mhz? Another guy here said the onboard thing underclocked his RAM for some reason, it shows my rams MHZ in the bios as faster then what I have, I really dont understand the timing numbers, as I really have not much time atm is this a decent performance boost for me?

also thanks for all your responses and the genuine help you give to everyone here on this thread (and im guessing elsewhere)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Well the inbuilt OC thing in the mobo is sitting it on a happy 4.4+ with aboslutely no effort on my part whatsoever. (in your opinion) do you think its worth fiddling to get an extra 100mhz? Another guy here said the onboard thing underclocked his RAM for some reason, it shows my rams MHZ in the bios as faster then what I have, I really dont understand the timing numbers, as I really have not much time atm is this a decent performance boost for me?
> also thanks for all your responses and the genuine help you give to everyone here on this thread (and im guessing elsewhere)


Yeah that was probably me who said that hehe!
If you are happy with the performance that's great








As for your RAM timings - you can check in the BIOS what they are, however they will probably be on auto, you can manually set them to what's "tested" by your manufacturer - like mine was corsair:
9-9-9-24 and 2N - that's exactly what I put







!

As for the MHZ on the ram -> are you sure it is what you have?
As i see the bus speed at 103 - thus it would be 103x something = ram speed and cpu speed.
Check your bios,s ee what it says - anyway, as long as it wasn't doing what it was doing for me:
ie. 1600mhz speed ram - downclocking it to 1333 - then you are fine. Not like I'll actually notice the difference, but rather use my ram to its tested potential, let alone OC'ing it.

As for your 0.1 extra in your CPU - think of it realistically, 0.1 x4 = 0.4 ghz - will you actually notice 0.4ghz, let alone 2ghz difference in the OC - most probably not.
these processors are good enough out the box nowadays, unlike in the old days were every inch of ghz counted.
My 3.5ghz stock i7 would be MORE than enough for BF3 on ultra - I just picked a number (4.5) and aimed for it.

So long story short, if p95 runs stable for 10-12hrs with the stock OC tuner, then there's no need to go to the hassle of trying to get a stable, manual OC, especially if your speed is 4.4ghz (which is surprisingly good for a stock oc tuner - mine would come in at 4.1-4.2)

As for the help provided - my pleasure bro - I've learnt so much in the past 3 months, and feel the need to help people, and this community - I get a sense of satisfaction when I help people for the good, and it allows them to further increase their potential - be it from recommending earphones, to helping people in their OC's


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi guys... Some more questions relating the fan control on this board...
> As I am about to upgrade MB, CPU, RAM etc. -I am leaning heavily towards the Sabertooth Z77.
> In preparation for the hardware change I put my current system under water (will use the basic set up for the new hardware) and bought a fan controller to control all fans for the radiators and case
> However I am very dissapointed with the controller. Doesn't really do what it should.
> I bought the Sunbeam Rheosmart 6 and the way it simulates/transorms a PWM signal into a voltage signal is just hopeless.
> So this leads me to my question regarding the fan control on the Sabertooth. as I would like to use the board to do this job.
> Can i control ALL fan headers individually (custom profiles etc.) related to CPU temp or will i need additional sensors?
> Is it possible to use a Y-splitter with a fan header and still have control of the fans
> Are here any other limitations to consider?
> \M


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> You can set temp/speed limit profiles for each fan in BIOS, and to even greater detail through AI Suite II - Thermal Radar settings in Windows.


The only fan you can't control, is the CPU Optional fan. You can see it in the bios and via AI suite but for some reason ASUS didn't include a customize-able setting for that header. My thinking is it's hard wired to the speed of main CPU fan in a push/pull setup. If you find otherwise report back!


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> The only fan you can't control, is the CPU Optional fan. You can see it in the bios and via AI suite but for some reason ASUS didn't include a customize-able setting for that header. *My thinking is it's hard wired to the speed of main CPU fan* in a push/pull setup. If you find otherwise report back!


This is what it seemed to do when I hooked a case fan up to it.


----------



## ChrisB17

You know the fan that is are the rear I/O that cools the VRM? Is that supposed to be blowing inwards or blowing outwards twords the rear? Thanks


----------



## Electrochef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> You know the fan that is are the rear I/O that cools the VRM? Is that supposed to be blowing inwards or blowing outwards twords the rear? Thanks


I asked the same earlier.

The manual says to have it intake air, however I'd rather have it blow hot air out. This way it also makes sure that it does not suck up any dust, I'd hate to have dust bunnies behind the "TUFF" shield where its out of reach.


----------



## ChrisB17

I had it blowing out, But I read the manual and it said the other way. So I switched it, But I'm not sure if that was the right idea or not.


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Q: Can i control ALL fan headers individually (custom profiles etc.) related to CPU temp or will i need additional sensors?
> 
> A: Yes, you can control each header individually with it's own custom fan speed profile based on any of the available temperature sensors on the mobo, which are many. For example:
> 
> Q: Is it possible to use a Y-splitter with a fan header and still have control of the fans?
> 
> A: Yes, I'm using one right now, and am having no issues. (It's the red sleeve that looks out of place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Q: Are here any other limitations to consider?
> 
> A: The cpu temperature is the socket temp, and there's no way to use the core temperatures in Thermal Radar. It will take a little getting used to, but you'll eventually get everything set like you want. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask here, or pm me. Good luck!


Thank you very much!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Just got mine up and working today. I had to RMA my first Sabertooth due to some weird BIOS update issue - took about four hours and was stuck in indefinite loop. This second board is much better. 3770k + D14, temps are ~25-30C idle, 45C load at Asus's auto OC at 4.2. Unfortunately the sideways 20-pin USB3 port is under a lot of pressure because the mobo is too close to the case and the connector is a bit too large, so it's connected at a slight angle.

According to HWMonitor, CPUTIN and AUXTIN is reporting 2 degrees Celsius. Those things never work, do they?











I'll have to manually tune the OC when I have time. it seems after a BIOS update it's down to 3.7.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Just got mine up and working today. I had to RMA my first Sabertooth due to some weird BIOS update issue - took about four hours and was stuck in indefinite loop. This second board is much better. 3770k + D14, temps are ~25-30C idle, 45C load at Asus's auto OC at 4.2. Unfortunately the sideways 20-pin USB3 port is under a lot of pressure because the mobo is too close to the case and the connector is a bit too large, so it's connected at a slight angle.
> According to HWMonitor, CPUTIN and AUXTIN is reporting 2 degrees Celsius. Those things never work, do they?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to manually tune the OC when I have time. it seems after a BIOS update it's down to 3.7.


Looks great mate, but those are not temps under 100% load - run prime for 2hrs and then give temp readings (ignore the asus ones, not only are they off, but don't really mean anything, unless you put it in a desert - literally.

As for the USB3 pin - same thing here - big chunky old thing!


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> This is what it seemed to do when I hooked a case fan up to it.










thanks Stevo!


----------



## rmorse27

nm


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> Nice rig zandar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I run the same CPU as you with my Sabertooth.
> I had my 2700k running at 4.8Ghz @ 1.395v, Memory @ 2133 on air for a number of months with no issues until recently so I dropped it down to 4.7Ghz @ 1.38v (will try lowering the core some more) and it's running nicely. Haven't run Prime95 for a long time but off the top of my head it was running mid to high 70c stable.
> I'll Prime it soon to test temps again.
> My rig is purely for gaming, BF3, dIRT3, F1 2012, Black OPS II. After a 10-12 hour session without rebooting PC, CPU temp would have hit a high of around high 50c - low 60c.
> I'm waiting on the release in Australia of the Corsair H100i hoping for better temps.
> My guess is you'll be able to hit 5Ghz by upping the vcore with that cooling setup of yours you should be safe.
> Remember Prime95 is stressing it to the max so with you running your real world programs stable is the real test.
> Good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I also had the AMD X2 many years ago, was a nice chip, this is my third intel build since


Thanks Detoyminador, this beast has been a long time coming. It is built for rendering After Effects, Premiere, and Maya work. Should get my GTX660 or 670 next month. I am sure I will go for a higher GHz before soon.


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

I didn't overclock my processor yet, I just put the settings under the bios from normal to optimal. I ran prime95 and the CPU went straight to 4.2ghz. Did a 4hr test and one core reached 58c the others max was 43c 46c 44c. Pretty good for being right out of the box


----------



## thetimmer42

I'm about to get this board along with a i7 3770K. Just curious how high I should go with RAM speed. Was going to do 1866, but why not go bigger, right?


----------



## iARDAs

Hey guys

I bought this logitech wireless G700 mouse and want to charge it via USB every night.

Is there a way I can turn off my pc but the Logitech G700 can charge?


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Looks great mate, but those are not temps under 100% load - run prime for 2hrs and then give temp readings (ignore the asus ones, not only are they off, but don't really mean anything, unless you put it in a desert - literally.
> As for the USB3 pin - same thing here - big chunky old thing!


Prime was actually running in the background, it's just cropped out.


----------



## montes

Hello all, new member and first post on OCN, but I had to share my excitement! I've been slowly buying parts for a much needed new build and, thanks to this forum and all your contributions, I finally pulled the trigger on a Sabertooth! I look forward to sharing pics when the build is complete... Mahalo!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Looks great mate, but those are not temps under 100% load - run prime for 2hrs and then give temp readings (ignore the asus ones, not only are they off, but don't really mean anything, unless you put it in a desert - literally.
> As for the USB3 pin - same thing here - big chunky old thing!
> 
> 
> 
> Prime was actually running in the background, it's just cropped out.
Click to expand...

Means you need more vcore to keep that from happening....


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetimmer42*
> 
> I'm about to get this board along with a i7 3770K. Just curious how high I should go with RAM speed. Was going to do 1866, but why not go bigger, right?


On my Samsungs I'm at 2133 9-10-10-28 1T with 1.5V









Edit: Meaning, save yourself some cash and buy the $35 2x4Gb sticks and OC them if you want higher speeds. But like Dubbed says below, you wont realistically notice a difference unless you're benching


----------



## Gandyman

@ Dubbed

Hey dude my cousin has the same board as us and the same CPU as you and for some reason his CPU-Z doesnt show
his speed as being throttled while not in use, as you explained to me in a previous post. As far as we can see he has identical bios settings as me and no other programs or anything (like asus suite or what not) that could be effecting it. His temps are still showing idle temps so it isnt under load or anything its just odd that it isnt throttling it. We just wanna know if thats harmful in any way or if its indicative of a larger problem that should be addressed before it goes on too long.

thx for your help as always


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *05_ACR_SRT4*
> 
> I didn't overclock my processor yet, I just put the settings under the bios from normal to optimal. I ran prime95 and the CPU went straight to 4.2ghz. Did a 4hr test and one core reached 58c the others max was 43c 46c 44c. Pretty good for being right out of the box


Sounds good!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetimmer42*
> 
> I'm about to get this board along with a i7 3770K. Just curious how high I should go with RAM speed. Was going to do 1866, but why not go bigger, right?


Depends on what you can get it to. You probably won't notice a difference realistically though...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Prime was actually running in the background, it's just cropped out.


Nice!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> @ Dubbedalways


You mean it isn't coming down?
If so, check the power settings in Windows









Apparently it won't do any harm. But the way I see it is mileage on a car. More you use it to full power, the lower it will last over time.


----------



## slayer191

Temps.jpg 321k .jpg file


I ran Prime95 for 2 Hours.

CPU: I7-3770K @ 4.2 ghz
Mobo: Sabertooth Z77
Cooling: H100 with x2 Noctua NF-P12 in Push Config.
RAM:16 GB of ram, G.Skill Sniper 1866mhz (Showing as 1600 mhz in windows but 1866mhz in BIOS ?!?)
SSD: Samsung 830
GPU: EVGA GTX 680 SC
PSU: Seasonic 1250X
Case: Corsair 850D

Le beast.jpg 133k .jpg file


I am adding a Noctua NF-P14 FLX 140mm for my back exhaust and changing the 35mm intake fan on the Sabertooth Z77 to a 40mm Noctua (Those Little 35mm fans are noisy)

How are my temps looking ? whats a good temp with the H100 and Overclock IVY ?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I bought this logitech wireless G700 mouse and want to charge it via USB every night.
> 
> Is there a way I can turn off my pc but the Logitech G700 can charge?


nobody likes me and answers me


----------



## augshow

Just built a PC with the this board and like it a lot. Only problem I'm having is even though the boot order is set and all of my boot devices are recognized, the system always boots to the BIOS and not from my boot devices from order. I always have to select a device to boot from in the BIOS. Here's my build:

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K
GPU: 2 x MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 670 (SLI)
MOBO: Sabertooth Z77
RAM: 4 x 8 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32 GB (F3-1600C9Q-32GXM)
HDs: Corsair Neutron Series GTX CSSD-N240GBGTX-BK 2.5" 240GB (new)
Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3750330AS 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" (old)
DVD: LG 22X DVD+-R DVD Burner SATA Model GH22NS30
PSU: KINGWIN LZP-1000 1000W

Some things to note, if I disconnect the HDD and the DVD drive, and have a bootable OS installed on the SSD, it boots fine from the SSD immediately. But as soon as I add the HDD or DVD, it doesn't boot from anything and goes straight to the BIOS. Also, if I turn off the PC and disconnect the AC power and plug it back in, it seems to boot fine for that one time (follows the boot order, not to BIOS unless I hold DEL), which made me think it was the fast boot setting throwing it off (since it's set to do normal boot after AC power loss). Tried turning off fast boot with the same results (boots to BIOS and have to select device).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I've gone through ASUS support and he's recommending me one thing a night via email and has come back to asking me if I have the boot order set correctly in the Advanced Mode BIOS. Could it be a bad board and should I RMA? Could it be that my DVD drive and HDD are older (purchased in 2009)? Or is it just a BIOS setting I'm not catching?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> nobody likes me and answers me


Check section 4.3.7 of your manual. Basically all you have to do is enable USB Charger+ inside ASUS AI Suite once you have the device connected.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:
Originally Posted by *augshow* 

Just built a PC with the this board and like it a lot. Only problem I'm having is even though the boot order is set and all of my boot devices are recognized, the system always boots to the BIOS and not from my boot devices from order. I always have to select a device to boot from in the BIOS.
*snip*


> Some things to note, if I disconnect the HDD and the DVD drive, and have a bootable OS installed on the SSD, it boots fine from the SSD immediately. But as soon as I add the HDD or DVD, it doesn't boot from anything and goes straight to the BIOS. Also, if I turn off the PC and disconnect the AC power and plug it back in, it seems to boot fine for that one time (follows the boot order, not to BIOS unless I hold DEL), which made me think it was the fast boot setting throwing it off (since it's set to do normal boot after AC power loss). Tried turning off fast boot with the same results (boots to BIOS and have to select device).
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I've gone through ASUS support and he's recommending me one thing a night via email and has come back to asking me if I have the boot order set correctly in the Advanced Mode BIOS. Could it be a bad board and should I RMA? Could it be that my DVD drive and HDD are older (purchased in 2009)? Or is it just a BIOS setting I'm not catching?


Which SATA ports are your devices plugged into?

When you say you have your boot order set, I'm assuming you've set it to boot from Hard Disk and then DVD, and then specifically set the order of which Hard Disk to use (read: It tries booting from the SSD first and then the HDD)?

I looked up your 750GB HDD and it supports AHCI, so that's not an issue,

Are you running the most recent BIOS? (1708)

I've had some of my USB devices interfere with booting when I was first setting up my Sabertooth. On a whim, does booting only with a keyboard plugged in make any difference?


----------



## thetimmer42

As far as the small fans on the armor, have they provided any better ones since Dubbed's review (stating that they are very noisy and are a different fan than what's mentioned in the manual)?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetimmer42*
> 
> As far as the small fans on the armor, have they provided any better ones since Dubbed's review (stating that they are very noisy and are a different fan than what's mentioned in the manual)?


I don't think ASUS will change that.
That said, that's my complaint of the board, but others like using the fans, and don't find them noisy.
One of the fans can be replaced by a Noctua 40mm, which seems to have given better results to some.

Long story short: If you feel 5c is a big difference on motherboard temps, then use it - if not, then do as I did, and get rid of them completely.
(Also remember that realistically you won't ever use your PC like p95 does for over 5hrs)


----------



## Am3Y

Guys m planning to setup a water cooler in my rig...
Which is the best waterblock for our mobo (sabertooth z77)
Do I hv 2 remove the thermal armour ??
Any one has tried here ?? Plzz help


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys m planning to setup a water cooler in my rig...
> Which is the best waterblock for our mobo (sabertooth z77)
> Do I hv 2 remove the thermal armour ??
> Any one has tried here ?? Plzz help


I have the following kit on my z77 Sabertooth, it performs quite well:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16894/ex-wat-222/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Dead-Water.html


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *augshow*
> 
> Just built a PC with the this board and like it a lot. Only problem I'm having is even though the boot order is set and all of my boot devices are recognized, the system always boots to the BIOS and not from my boot devices from order. I always have to select a device to boot from in the BIOS. Here's my build:
> CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K
> GPU: 2 x MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 670 (SLI)
> MOBO: Sabertooth Z77
> RAM: 4 x 8 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32 GB (F3-1600C9Q-32GXM)
> HDs: Corsair Neutron Series GTX CSSD-N240GBGTX-BK 2.5" 240GB (new)
> Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3750330AS 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" (old)
> DVD: LG 22X DVD+-R DVD Burner SATA Model GH22NS30
> PSU: KINGWIN LZP-1000 1000W
> Some things to note, if I disconnect the HDD and the DVD drive, and have a bootable OS installed on the SSD, it boots fine from the SSD immediately. But as soon as I add the HDD or DVD, it doesn't boot from anything and goes straight to the BIOS. Also, if I turn off the PC and disconnect the AC power and plug it back in, it seems to boot fine for that one time (follows the boot order, not to BIOS unless I hold DEL), which made me think it was the fast boot setting throwing it off (since it's set to do normal boot after AC power loss). Tried turning off fast boot with the same results (boots to BIOS and have to select device).
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I've gone through ASUS support and he's recommending me one thing a night via email and has come back to asking me if I have the boot order set correctly in the Advanced Mode BIOS. Could it be a bad board and should I RMA? Could it be that my DVD drive and HDD are older (purchased in 2009)? Or is it just a BIOS setting I'm not catching?


Since my machine is liquid cooled, I don't have a CPU fan. This resulted in CPU Fan error, which kicked it into the BIOS every time until I disabled the CPU fan in BIOS.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Since my machine is liquid cooled, I don't have a MB fan. This resulted in CPU Fan error, which kicked it into the BIOS every time until I disabled the CPU fan in BIOS.


same goes for me with CPU fan speeds being "too low" as the motherboard couldn't pick up my antec's speed for some reason.

So BIOS update + disabling monitoring for it, I think solves it.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I bought this logitech wireless G700 mouse and want to charge it via USB every night.
> 
> Is there a way I can turn off my pc but the Logitech G700 can charge?


I have this mouse, plug it into any of the USB ports. Charges, no problem.


----------



## dandubi

Hi all,

I am looking to purchase the z77 sabertooth tomorrow as an upgrade from my 2007 abit quadgt ab9 (been a while since an upgrade







) I have a i7 2600 which I will be using (can't overclock) and was curious on a CPU cooler which will fit / work we'll and be reasonably quiet??

For some reason I am drawn to the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E SE with black and white fans - will this fit / is it a major overkill? Appreciate all your thoughts.


----------



## tuxx

been in the club for a while







got it about 4 months ago, this thread actually made me decide to get it.. but seeing as i've only just registered today, ill post, not the best picture but it will do











actually added a Asus Xonar STX since this was taken


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> been in the club for a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got it about 4 months ago, this thread actually made me decide to get it.. but seeing as i've only just registered today, ill post, not the best picture but it will do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> actually added a Asus Xonar STX since this was taken


Nice one - actually, what was the big thing that made you buy it, over other mobos?


----------



## zandar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zandar*
> 
> Thanks again to everyone for the overclocking info,
> There is an issue that has been bugging me since I set up z77 Sabertooth.
> I can only get a video signal out of the on-board HDMI on the motherboard (HDMI to DVI)
> I can not get video out of the on-board Displayport (DisplayPort to DVI)
> Couldn't find anything in the BIOS, am i missing something or is it probably the cable?
> Thanks


It appears that when using a DisplayPort to DVI cable (z77 Sabertooth to monitor) that it must be of the "ACTIVE" variety.
Haven't verified it for myself yet. (don't feel like buying another cable)
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?18116-Maximus-Gene-V-s-HDMI-works-DisplayPort-doesn-t


----------



## Gandyman

Ok so Im sure many of us realize that sabertooth z77 + corsair h100 requires a little extra headspace over the mobo to mount the radiator. could I get some people with the same set up as me to list what case you are using preferably with a link, not only for my benefit but perhaps to archive it for future sabertooth owners.

I love my fractal case, its solid its heavy its lined with tar it has really good dust filters, airflow, simple design but just screams high quality when touching it. But as you can see below I cant mount the radiator properly, theres about 1cm not enough space above the thermal armor











Ive had to mount it forward as possible in the case, meaning that only half the radiator actually has exposure to the grill above, it looks tacky, its inhibiting performance, it annoys me!

Anyone have a good solid simple case that has the extra room to fit the radiator properly? I really dislike all the cases that arent a square box. Flashy plastic edges all over in every shape does not appeal to me at all! Also as a bonus a side view panel would be awesome to show off (in my opinion) the best looking hardware on the market atm.

Thanks to all!


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Ok so Im sure many of us realize that sabertooth z77 + corsair h100 requires a little extra headspace over the mobo to mount the radiator. could I get some people with the same set up as me to list what case you are using preferably with a link, not only for my benefit but perhaps to archive it for future sabertooth owners.
> I love my fractal case, its solid its heavy its lined with tar it has really good dust filters, airflow, simple design but just screams high quality when touching it. But as you can see below I cant mount the radiator properly, theres about 1cm not enough space above the thermal armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> Ive had to mount it forward as possible in the case, meaning that only half the radiator actually has exposure to the grill above, it looks tacky, its inhibiting performance, it annoys me!
> Anyone have a good solid simple case that has the extra room to fit the radiator properly? I really dislike all the cases that arent a square box. Flashy plastic edges all over in every shape does not appeal to me at all! Also as a bonus a side view panel would be awesome to show off (in my opinion) the best looking hardware on the market atm.
> Thanks to all!


I'm using the Corsair C70, and while it is tight using the factory 120mm holes(touches the mobo), moving it over slightly as shown below nets me just enough clearance to run the H100i in push/pull without it running into anything. Still need to slightly drill the top mesh to fit the last 2 screws into the top. If you only want to run push or pull, it fits perfectly.

http://www.corsair.com/us/vengeance-c70-mid-tower-gaming-case-military-green.html

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139015













I replaced the factory side window with a solid piece of acrylic because the stock one had fan mounts in it that I didn't like.



Here's the clearance with only 2 fans installed (push configuration):


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Ok so Im sure many of us realize that sabertooth z77 + corsair h100 requires a little extra headspace over the mobo to mount the radiator. could I get some people with the same set up as me to list what case you are using preferably with a link, not only for my benefit but perhaps to archive it for future sabertooth owners.
> 
> I love my fractal case, its solid its heavy its lined with tar it has really good dust filters, airflow, simple design but just screams high quality when touching it. But as you can see below I cant mount the radiator properly, theres about 1cm not enough space above the thermal armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Ive had to mount it forward as possible in the case, meaning that only half the radiator actually has exposure to the grill above, it looks tacky, its inhibiting performance, it annoys me!
> 
> Anyone have a good solid simple case that has the extra room to fit the radiator properly? I really dislike all the cases that arent a square box. Flashy plastic edges all over in every shape does not appeal to me at all! Also as a bonus a side view panel would be awesome to show off (in my opinion) the best looking hardware on the market atm.
> 
> Thanks to all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the Corsair C70, and while it is tight using the factory 120mm holes(touches the mobo), moving it over slightly as shown below nets me just enough clearance to run the H100i in push/pull without it running into anything. Still need to slightly drill the top mesh to fit the last 2 screws into the top. If you only want to run push or pull, it fits perfectly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/vengeance-c70-mid-tower-gaming-case-military-green.html
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139015
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131984/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131989/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131983/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131982/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131980/
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1131979/
> 
> I replaced the factory side window with a solid piece of acrylic because the stock one had fan mounts in it that I didn't like.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1123096/
> 
> Here's the clearance with only 2 fans installed (push configuration):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1128106/
Click to expand...

That looks real nice *Stevoandaredk5*. Good job there.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> That looks real nice *Stevoandaredk5*. Good job there.


Thanks







. Definitely a work in progress. I can't wait to get a GPU in there. It looks so empty, though I'll be sad to cover up this awesome-looking mobo.


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nice one - actually, what was the big thing that made you buy it, over other mobos?


well i didn't really see any negativity about it it







and im glad i did buy it, even downloaded the sabertooth version of cpuz for it











i seriously love everything about this board.


----------



## sakerfalcon

Hi guys, I seem to be in an odd bind right here. My multiplier is 'stuck' - no matter what values I change, especially the turbo ratio in the Ai Tweaker, my multiplier is stuck at 45. It's not like it's a hard limit at 4.5Ghz; I've hit 4.7 before with some wild numbers (not exactly stable), and if I set it down to 44x, CPU-Z still reports as 45x multiplier.

My specs are as follows:

Intel i7-3770k
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Noctua D14
Sapphire 7970 OC Edition
G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866, 4 x 2 x 2 (16gb total)
OCZ ModXStream 600W
Samsung 830 256GB
Corsair 500R

I've been slowly upping the multiplier and offset voltage, when somehow during the course of my adjustments I can't change the multiplier anymore. Asus AI Suite was uninstalled as of yesterday - the problem occurred earlier tonight. This is the second occurrence of a stuck multiplier. I was fiddling with it yesterday night and it was stuck at 40X, which was solved by doing a CMOS jumper reset. I don't really want to reset everything each time this occurs.

I'm pretty baffled. Any suggestions?

Here's the screenshots for my full settings:









Any suggestions for improved OC is welcomed, of course.


----------



## Gandyman

@ Stevoandaredk5

Thanks a ton for your reply and the informative pics.

I was considering the c70, looked good in pictures but when i watches some y outube reviews the things that put me off were

a. The side latches and panel looked really tinny, flimsy, especially compared to my fractals bitumen lined side
b. There seemed to be little to no intake outlet on the front of the case, with the 2 radiator fans and the rear exaust and the GPU coolers (im going to be purchasing a 2nd 670 after xmas) all trying to exaust air, I want to have decent intake, the ones on the front of my fractal you can see if you look closely in my previously posted pic they have heaps of space to suck from the front of the case and the entirety of the front panel is ribbed a full 360 around the front designed for air intake (even tho the very front itself is a flat panel) and as far as I'm aware you should be aiming for a 1:1 air in / out ratio inside your case no?
c. the window with the ribbed bits for fans on the side looks absolutely horrid.

How do you find these 3 points after actually owning it?

AND TO KEEP IT ON TOPIC, sabertooth looks amazing and so does the back plate asus put son their gtx 6xx series. matches amazingly (again check my previous post for the pic







on a side note if you are considering it the asus 670s take up 2 slots while the 680s take up 3.

Thanks again for your post/pics


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Ok so Im sure many of us realize that sabertooth z77 + corsair h100 requires a little extra headspace over the mobo to mount the radiator. could I get some people with the same set up as me to list what case you are using preferably with a link, not only for my benefit but perhaps to archive it for future sabertooth owners.
> I love my fractal case, its solid its heavy its lined with tar it has really good dust filters, airflow, simple design but just screams high quality when touching it. But as you can see below I cant mount the radiator properly, theres about 1cm not enough space above the thermal armor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ive had to mount it forward as possible in the case, meaning that only half the radiator actually has exposure to the grill above, it looks tacky, its inhibiting performance, it annoys me!
> Anyone have a good solid simple case that has the extra room to fit the radiator properly? I really dislike all the cases that arent a square box. Flashy plastic edges all over in every shape does not appeal to me at all! Also as a bonus a side view panel would be awesome to show off (in my opinion) the best looking hardware on the market atm.
> Thanks to all!


mod your case? I have the corsair obsidian 550D and it took me a LONG time to get everythign wired and fit porperly. I have my h100 top mounted as well, managed to line it up with the grill on the case but it was a tight squeeze.

So is your problem tha tyou have to move the radiator to the side laterally? like so longways its only halway lined up with the grill? or is it pushed forward in the case? If you needed to jus tmove it forward, is it the armor thats in the way or the exahaust fan?

Maybe worst case scenario and bugs some people... but try side mounting radiator to your panel?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Definitely a work in progress. I can't wait to get a GPU in there. It looks so empty, though I'll be sad to cover up this awesome-looking mobo.


Man o man ur build is super sexy.
Not to mention the vinyl on the side








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> well i didn't really see any negativity about it it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im glad i did buy it, even downloaded the sabertooth version of cpuz for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> i seriously love everything about this board.


haha fair enough - and that looks sexy! - I might get that too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sakerfalcon*
> 
> Hi guys, I seem to be in an odd bind right here. My multiplier is 'stuck' - no matter what values I change, especially the turbo ratio in the Ai Tweaker, my multiplier is stuck
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for improved OC is welcomed, of course.


VERY simple:
Put CPU ratio to MANUAL not AUTO in AI tweaker.

Also don't start an OC on offset...


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha fair enough - and that looks sexy! - I might get that too
> ...


its hard to find though so ill find the link for you, took me ages to find it after seeing a screenshot of it haha.

okay its in the downloads section under the 990FX's sabertooth under utilities, tbh i don't know why its not on all the other sabertooth boards section.

http://www.asus.com.au/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#download


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> its hard to find though so ill find the link for you, took me ages to find it after seeing a screenshot of it haha.
> okay its in the downloads section under the 990FX's sabertooth under utilities, tbh i don't know why its not on all the other sabertooth boards section.
> http://www.asus.com.au/Motherboards/AMD_AM3Plus/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/#download


It is an actual Asus software?
Haha hell no then. I hate Asus software with a passion.
I just thought it was a cpuz theme.


----------



## tuxx

it is cpuz, they just made a theme for it


----------



## Gandyman

Dont you love the broken English, the direct Taiwanese to English translations, and the mile long list of bloatware and spyware in their software?! Its my favourite


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Man o man ur build is super sexy.
> Not to mention the vinyl on the side


Thank ya! I still haven't found a cost-effective way to print it myself, so hopefully soon I'll be contacting victorygirl.com to see if they'll do it for me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> @ Stevoandaredk5
> Thanks a ton for your reply and the informative pics.
> I was considering the c70, looked good in pictures but when i watches some y outube reviews the things that put me off were
> a. The side latches and panel looked really tinny, flimsy, especially compared to my fractals bitumen lined side
> b. There seemed to be little to no intake outlet on the front of the case, with the 2 radiator fans and the rear exaust and the GPU coolers (im going to be purchasing a 2nd 670 after xmas) all trying to exaust air, I want to have decent intake, the ones on the front of my fractal you can see if you look closely in my previously posted pic they have heaps of space to suck from the front of the case and the entirety of the front panel is ribbed a full 360 around the front designed for air intake (even tho the very front itself is a flat panel) and as far as I'm aware you should be aiming for a 1:1 air in / out ratio inside your case no?
> c. the window with the ribbed bits for fans on the side looks absolutely horrid.
> How do you find these 3 points after actually owning it?
> AND TO KEEP IT ON TOPIC, sabertooth looks amazing and so does the back plate asus put son their gtx 6xx series. matches amazingly (again check my previous post for the pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on a side note if you are considering it the asus 670s take up 2 slots while the 680s take up 3.
> Thanks again for your post/pics


I really haven't handled a whole lot of other cases, and this is only my second custom build, but I have been really impressed with this case.

a) It's true that they aren't as solid as some side panels on the market, but you have to keep in mind that Corsair designed this case with the "traveling/LAN party gamer" in mind. And it shows. However, I have never felt like I was going to break a latch or bend a side panel, and I'm not babying this case. I use the handles like they were intended, and carry my case around by them. I've accidentally kicked side panels sitting on the floor and didn't leave any sign. After coming from a Rosewill Challenger case and having almost every plastic part on it crack/break, the all-metal C70 makes me super happy.

b)If you count the 2 fans on the bottom of the case, and don't count the fan mounts in the ugly stock side window, You've got 4-120mm intake(front/bottom), and 3-120mm(rear/top) as exhaust, which nets you slight positive pressure, which is the best in my opinion for dust control. You can also use 140mm fans in most of those locations. Unless you have a super long PSU, those two lower fans will fit just fine. And they have a removeable dust filter, just like the front and PSU.



c)Replacing the side panel really isn't that hard, especially if you have a local shop who will cut acrylic for you, or have access to the right tools yourself. I bought a sheet at Home Depot, cut it to size on the bandsaw at work, and then drilled the holes to use the stock mounting hardware and trim. Plus there may be a company (though it may be in the UK) that is about to start making custom windows for the C70.

I've been looking for a GPU that will match well with the Sabertooth, but since I'm on a budget, I am probably going to go with a Sapphire HD 7950 and get a custom black ColdZero backplate for it.


----------



## dandubi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dandubi*
> 
> Hi all,
> I am looking to purchase the z77 sabertooth tomorrow as an upgrade from my 2007 abit quadgt ab9 (been a while since an upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I have a i7 2600 which I will be using (can't overclock) and was curious on a CPU cooler which will fit / work we'll and be reasonably quiet??
> For some reason I am drawn to the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E SE with black and white fans - will this fit / is it a major overkill? Appreciate all your thoughts.


So I have just got confirmation from the supplier that I will be ordering from that there is no clearance issue with these









Goodbye Abit and hellooo Asus Sabertooth!


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Man o man ur build is super sexy.
> Not to mention the vinyl on the side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha fair enough - and that looks sexy! - I might get that too
> VERY simple:
> Put CPU ratio to MANUAL not AUTO in AI tweaker.
> Also don't start an OC on offset...


Even if CPU ratio is set to 46x under advanced > CPU power management configuration it still boots into x45 multiplier.


----------



## Gandyman

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811345019

This is the bitfenix ghost, anyone have this with a h100 or ismilar sized top mounted radiator and a sabertooth? Im thinking of getting it but I will be heartbroken if it doesnt fit properly still!


----------



## Beakz

I'm sad to say that just as fast as I joined you all I must leave... I'm changing my build to mimic the compact splash setup with a gtx670 and a 3570k...


----------



## Gandyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beakz*
> 
> I'm sad to say that just as fast as I joined you all I must leave... I'm changing my build to mimic the compact splash setup with a gtx670 and a 3570k...


Bye?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811345019
> This is the bitfenix ghost, anyone have this with a h100 or ismilar sized top mounted radiator and a sabertooth? Im thinking of getting it but I will be heartbroken if it doesnt fit properly still!


I know you have mounts for 2 - 120mm fans up top in the Ghost, but I couldn't find any examples online. It looks to me like it would fit, but that's only based on TLAR spec. (That looks about right.) You could try calling Bitfenix to see if they test fitted a 240mm rad up top. As to whether it will fit with the Sabertooth... if they had any trouble with any other mobo+240mm rad, then you'll probably run into trouble with the Sabertooth.



**Edit**

Just found this in the product description on Bitfenix' site:

Quote:


> What better way to cool a silent system than with liquid cooling? That's why Ghost comes equipped with room for a 240mm radiator on top, and hides it away with a handy mesh cover to maintain a clean look while delivering excellent airflow.


----------



## Gandyman

Hey man thanks for the info again, ill Rep you once I'm home can't fInd it on my Droid lol. Not to mention my poor galaxy s2 screen has been to Vietnam and gets random flashbacks and stops working from time to time lol. Anyways I saw the top mounting for the radiators on the top of the ghost, but with the fans having to be below it to push up, my issue is how close the top most part of the thermal armor on the sabertooth is to the top of the case, is there going to be room for the 120m fans that would have to sit below the top mouth part that holds the radiator and above the armor. I think I just repeated myself but I can't scroll up lol.thanks again for your help


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Hey man thanks for the info again, ill Rep you once I'm home can't fInd it on my Droid lol. Not to mention my poor galaxy s2 screen has been to Vietnam and gets random flashbacks and stops working from time to time lol. Anyways I saw the top mounting for the radiators on the top of the ghost, but with the fans having to be below it to push up, my issue is how close the top most part of the thermal armor on the sabertooth is to the top of the case, is there going to be room for the 120m fans that would have to sit below the top mouth part that holds the radiator and above the armor. I think I just repeated myself but I can't scroll up lol.thanks again for your help


As long as you're only wanting to run push with 2 fans on the bottom of the rad, I don't think you'll have any trouble. From the location of the motherboard standoffs, it looks to me like you'll have plenty of room for the fans. After looking at the images from this Overclock3D review, I am actually quite certain.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/bitfenix_ghost_review/3



Plus this straight on shot from Bitfenix also looks like a good indicator:


----------



## nerdybeat

Hi all! I am new to the club. Just installed my Z77 today. I had installed it for a friend, and it was an absolutely amazing mobo. I had the X58 Sabertooth before, so it was an obvious choice for the Z77. Getting used to the nice BIOS, gonna start some OCs once I get everything up to date and installed. Here are some pics!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looks beautiful! Nice build


----------



## tuxx

planning on sli/quad sli/crossfiring on the sabertooth z77, anyone know any cards that are capable of this, doesn't have to be the top end cards like the 680 or anything


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> planning on sli/quad sli/crossfiring on the sabertooth z77, anyone know any cards that are capable of this, doesn't have to be the top end cards like the 680 or anything


Unless I'm mistaken the 560 and 660 for example are good.
Be warned though, with the PCI-E configuration on the sabertooth, you might not have space for anything else via an SLI config.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken the 560 and 660 for example are good.
> Be warned though, with the PCI-E configuration on the sabertooth, you might not have space for anything else via an SLI config.


You can fit 2 no problem, but nothing more.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> You can fit 2 no problem, but nothing more.


yeah that's what I mean - you'll have a lot of trouble, fitting anything more.
If anything, you can fit one thing above the first GFX, nearest to the CPU.


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok I need some help, So I have been messing around in the bios. And I cant seem to turn off turbo mode







I have no idea about this, its 100% different then my gigabyte z77 board. I am trying for 4.4-4.5 ghz.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Ok I need some help, So I have been messing around in the bios. And I cant seem to turn off turbo mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea about this, its 100% different then my gigabyte z77 board. I am trying for 4.4-4.5 ghz.


I know under "CPU Power Management" you have the ability to set the non-turbo ratio, but I can't remember if that disables turbo or not...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If you set the multiplier in that screen above to above 39 -thus 3.9ghz (which is over the turbo mode capabilities), then you'll automatically disable turbo mode.
If however you still want to be on stock - say 3.5ghz - then you can disable turbo under the AI tweaker and/or CPU config


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 400watt should be fine.
> I have 750, but was told by MSI that 600w would be enough to power my system


Using the Kill-A-Watt outlet plug, my system only draws around 350w when gaming and that includes my speakers and LCD. My 850w Seasonic doesn't even break a sweat or spin the fan up haha!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just needs a GPU...


I can't believed you squeezed a push pull setup in there. I'd love to PM chat with you about how you got that side window setup. It looks great. Also, how loud your system is with all those 120s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> well i didn't really see any negativity about it it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im glad i did buy it, even downloaded the sabertooth version of cpuz for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i seriously love everything about this board.


Do you have a download link for that theme?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motherfo*
> 
> I can't believed you squeezed a push pull setup in there. I'd love to PM chat with you about how you got that side window setup. It looks great. Also, how loud your system is with all those 120s.


I'll gladly answer any questions you have!









x2 on that download link for that CPU-Z skin.


----------



## ChrisB17

So which one is right? I have speedstep on. I want it to downclock when not using a heavy task and to turbo when I load it up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> 
> So which one is right? I have speedstep on. I want it to downclock when not using a heavy task and to turbo when I load it up.


both lol.
One is showing you your MAX possible (CPU-Z), and task manager is showing your actual use right now.
In other words, go into the equivalent of power options in windows 7, and put it to max performance - then you';ll see task manager go to your OC.
I suggest not doing that, as there's no use of your CPU being 100% at it its OC at ALL TIMES. you are saving energy and heat on the CPU with the C-states and power options in windows enabled.

If you run p95 however, you should see BOTH figures at 4.4ghz.

Oh and after looking at it again:
real temp and task manager are doing the SAME thing - i just bet one is being ******ed, quite literally.


----------



## ChrisB17

With prime running windows is maxing at 4.36. CPUZ and RT both show 4.4


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> With prime running windows is maxing at 4.36. CPUZ and RT both show 4.4


that's correct then.
I can't comment on the reliability of Win8 accuracy - but for win7 - i trust cpuz more than task manager.


----------



## ChrisB17

This board is SUPER EZ compared to the gigabyte. WOW. Seems to OC with less voltage to.


----------



## martian1

Need a little help with a recent problem..i think its down to my crucial M4 ssd recently and unfortunately due to me playing around with settings etc i am unsure if it is the drive or a daft setting or driver issue. I originally thought it was my keyboard or and mouse acting up as sometimes when i boot into windows i am unable to use either. It seems the ssd is locking up or freezing now and then as the hdrive led light locks solid! It does sometimes free itself up but i usually end up forcing a hard shutdown







..any ideas or know of any tests i can run to isolate the culprit?
The thing is i never get a bsod or crashes and when it is running fine i can game and surf for hours without issue..very..very strange!
I have tested memory etc and its fine i run a 4.5mhtz overclock with is stable with prime and intel burn test the bios is recent but not the latest..i really dont want to mess with bios etc if its just the drive causing it i have the latest intel chipset drivers as well. Help appreciated especially anyone with similar issues.
I have also updated the crucials firmware hoping that would cure it. Boot up or the first few mins into windows is when it happens.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Need a little help with a recent problem..i think its down to my crucial M4 ssd recently and unfortunately due to me playing around with settings etc i am unsure if it is the drive or a daft setting or driver issue. I originally thought it was my keyboard or and mouse acting up as sometimes when i boot into windows i am unable to use either. It seems the ssd is locking up or freezing now and then as the hdrive led light locks solid! It does sometimes free itself up but i usually end up forcing a hard shutdown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..any ideas or know of any tests i can run to isolate the culprit?
> The thing is i never get a bsod or crashes and when it is running fine i can game and surf for hours without issue..very..very strange!
> I have tested memory etc and its fine i run a 4.5mhtz overclock with is stable with prime and intel burn test the bios is recent but not the latest..i really dont want to mess with bios etc if its just the drive causing it i have the latest intel chipset drivers as well. Help appreciated especially anyone with similar issues.
> I have also updated the crucials firmware hoping that would cure it. Boot up or the first few mins into windows is when it happens.


So was this problem occurring before you played around with settings? If so, what settings did you change?

What SATA port do you have it connected to on the Sabertooth?

Do you have a spare hard drive to load windows onto to isolate the SSD as the issue?


----------



## ChrisB17

Uhg damn FAN CONTROLLER is hold meee back from OCING! ahhhh


----------



## LuckyNumber13

hey everyone i just recieved the asus z77 sabertooth today
and am going to be hooking up my new rig in about a month
and was wondering if anyone has removed the armor? is it
only the screws that are holding the armor on or? i havent' really
taken a good good look at it but just wondering if anyone already
has taken it off and can let me know that.
also is there any crucial bios updates i should get or is it basically
good out of the box as long as there are no current issues.?


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> hey everyone i just recieved the asus z77 sabertooth today
> and am going to be hooking up my new rig in about a month
> and was wondering if anyone has removed the armor? is it
> only the screws that are holding the armor on or? i havent' really
> taken a good good look at it but just wondering if anyone already
> has taken it off and can let me know that.
> also is there any crucial bios updates i should get or is it basically
> good out of the box as long as there are no current issues.?


I've seen it done, it's just the screws that hold it on. Not very pretty with the armor off IMO.



You should be able to set it up using the factory BIOS no problem, but it's always best to update to the newest version when you can.


----------



## Z Overlord

When flashing new bios, if you have Secure Boot, do you need to do anything with it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Uhg damn FAN CONTROLLER is hold meee back from OCING! ahhhh


hmmm how?
Just disabled the monitoring for it...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> I've seen it done, it's just the screws that hold it on. Not very pretty with the armor off IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to set it up using the factory BIOS no problem, but it's always best to update to the newest version when you can.


That picture without thermal armor is with everything, including PCI/PCIe slots & all components removed. This is what is should look like without the thermal armor:-
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?12086-Preview-Sabertooth-Z77-Motherboard&p=87159&viewfull=1#post87159


http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/1900#post_17840628


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I prefer it with its coat on


----------



## tuxx

wow still looks sexy without the armour.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hmmm how?
> Just disabled the monitoring for it...


I don't know if I can. It's a bitfenix recon fan controller.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I don't know if I can. It's a bitfenix recon fan controller.


Oh right, and external fan controller?
What seems to be the problem?


----------



## cvmanjoo

I'm buying this board next week..
But My doubt is
"Can i convert DisplayPort of this MOBO to VGA ?"

Using this type of cables ?


----------



## martian1

Sorry for late reply i think its fixed..uninstalled intel rapid storage and it has not crapped out on me so far


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh right, and external fan controller?
> What seems to be the problem?


Eh when I put the RPM's up my push and pull config on my H60 rad it beeps and puts fans down to 0 RPMs, Then ramps back up to 1900, then back to 0 etc....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Eh when I put the RPM's up my push and pull config on my H60 rad it beeps and puts fans down to 0 RPMs, Then ramps back up to 1900, then back to 0 etc....


go into the BIOS disable the fan header notifications and control.
I think it has to do with that.

apart from that, it might be specifically with incompatibility of your fan controller with the H60


----------



## Trackzilla

Since information about just how tall ASUS MB are overall, important for those like me looking to install in 1U rackmount cases: The MB itself fits fine, but the thermal armor leaves it sticking up about 2mm too much to fit right above the backplane. I'm trying to decide now whether to remove the armor or mod the case with a slot in the lid to allow the back section of armor to hang out in the outside world...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackzilla*
> 
> Since information about just how tall ASUS MB are overall, important for those like me looking to install in 1U rackmount cases: The MB itself fits fine, but the thermal armor leaves it sticking up about 2mm too much to fit right above the backplane. I'm trying to decide now whether to remove the armor or mod the case with a slot in the lid to allow the back section of armor to hang out in the outside world...


That's an absolute tiny case - if google isn't lying to me...comes to no surprise that it wouldn't have fit.


----------



## Trackzilla

yep, hence the challenges in a 1U case build...the external height of the case is 1.75" (44.5mm to the rest of the world) and width is maximum 17.75", in this particular instance the case is only 14" deep. And after shoehorning everything into it you have to get it to stay cool without sounding like a jet aircraft.

I have decided to remove the armor for the initial build to allow final config & testing before modding the case. I figure I might as well wait until everything is confirmed as ideal before I carve up metal


----------



## clayer

hi totally dubbed i need some help to overclock my pc im currently overclocked to 4.2 in bios and all i have done is upped multiplier and im using xtreme memory i would like to reach 4.5 for every day usage if possible, im not new to pcs i can build 1 and sort most problems but ive no idea about overclocking ,
this overclock is fully stable in prime 12hrs

max temps
70
72
72
69

my current system,

coolermaster cosmos 2
i3770k /be quiet dark pro 2/ 3 fan set up
16gb ripjawz 1600mb
gtx 690
asus z77 sabretooth
ax 1200 psu
bios 1708
asus 2560x1440

any help would be much appreciated in achieving a higher overclock

thanks

shaun.


----------



## Am3Y

Guy is sabertooth z77 meant for overclocking ??
Manny of my frds say it is nt meant fr oc...
is it true ??


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guy is sabertooth z77 meant for overclocking ??
> Manny of my frds say it is nt meant fr oc...
> is it true ??


It's a great board for overclocking. Are there better boards out there for the same money? Sure, but I bought my Sabertooth because it has decent VRM, the features I needed/wanted, and looked good while doing it. I've managed a 24/7 stable 4.5GHz overclock on my i5 3570K and haven't had any trouble with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi totally dubbed i need some help to overclock my pc im currently overclocked to 4.2 in bios and all i have done is upped multiplier and im using xtreme memory i would like to reach 4.5 for every day usage if possible, im not new to pcs i can build 1 and sort most problems but ive no idea about overclocking ,
> this overclock is fully stable in prime 12hrs
> max temps
> 70
> 72
> 72
> 69
> my current system,
> coolermaster cosmos 2
> i3770k /be quiet dark pro 2/ 3 fan set up
> 16gb ripjawz 1600mb
> gtx 690
> asus z77 sabretooth
> ax 1200 psu
> bios 1708
> asus 2560x1440
> any help would be much appreciated in achieving a higher overclock
> thanks
> shaun.


Shaun, this is the best Ivy Bridge overclocking guide on the web right now in my opinion. Give it a read, and check here again if you have some more questions. Good luck! I got to 4.5 stable no problem on my 3570K.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_50


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi totally dubbed i need some help to overclock my pc im currently overclocked to 4.2 in bios and all i have done is upped multiplier and im using xtreme memory i would like to reach 4.5 for every day usage if possible, im not new to pcs i can build 1 and sort most problems but ive no idea about overclocking ,
> this ks
> shaun.


See below








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guy is sabertooth z77 meant for overclocking ??
> Manny of my frds say it is nt meant fr oc...
> is it true ??


Z77 sabertooth works, and is easy to use









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> It's a great board for overclocking. Are there better boards out there for the same money? Sure, but I bought my Sabertooth because it has decent VRM, the features I needed/wanted, and looked good while doing it. I've managed a 24/7 stable 4.5GHz overclock on my i5 3570K and haven't had any trouble with it.
> Shaun, this is the best Ivy Bridge overclocking guide on the web right now in my opinion. Give it a read, and check here again if you have some more questions. Good luck! I got to 4.5 stable no problem on my 3570K.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/0_50


agreed with stevo.
But if you are already at stable at 4.2- all you do is go to 4.5, and increase the vcore


----------



## Eze2kiel

I have a Core i5 3570K and Patriot PVI316G213C1QK Viper Intel Extreme Masters 3 16GB DDR3 2133MHz 4x4GB kit.

What I need to know is how to set starting values of the processor and the memory by default, ie without OC.
I also use the TurboBoost but not I have a Core i5 3570K and memories PVI316G213C1QK Patriot Viper Intel ® Extreme Masters 3 16GB DDR3 2133MHz 4x4GB kit.

What I need to know is how to set starting values of the processor and the memory by default, ie without OC.
I also use the SpeedStep but not SpeedStep.

In what I have to set starting values by default the same?
Since I don't know what the stock voltage of the processor, as in the Intel page doesn't report it.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

PS: To be clear I don't want everything to AUTO set starting but manually


----------



## clayer

hi i am currently oc to 4.5 using your exact settings except for xtreme memory and no ofset yet, at 1.265 prime stopped working at 1.275 prime stopped working
do i up the vcore or what else no crashes as yet wondered if i have a problem with prime , temps were max low 70's.

thanks

shaun.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> I've seen it done, it's just the screws that hold it on. Not very pretty with the armor off IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to set it up using the factory BIOS no problem, but it's always best to update to the newest version when you can.


thanx..oh and i want to remove the armor because i want
to air brush it then put it back on
..still coming up with what i'm going to do though.


----------



## martian1

Great board managed to hit 5.0Mhtz with temps around 75deg using a corsair h100. running at 4.5Mhtz for everyday usage with vcore of 1.35v, temps with intense gaming are below 55deg .. Sandy though not a toasty ivy


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> thanx..oh and i want to remove the armor because i want
> to air brush it then put it back on
> ..still coming up with what i'm going to do though.


I'm going to try the same thing, case as well.
Still trying to decide between these two patterns.


----------



## Greenbrucelee

I have a bit of an issue with my asus sabertooth z77.

I have a corsair hx650w and the 8 pin connector will not reach behind the case (corsair 600T) so I have to go straight up which screws up the cable management look that the case is designed for. Another thing is that the 8 pin connector keeps coming out but only ever so slightly.

Do you guys think I should buy an extender so I can route it round the back?

Also another question I overclocked the i2500k I have to 4.5GHz when I start the system and see POST I see the bit where it shows that I have the i2500k and it runs at 3.3GHz but below that it says speed and shows something like 3308 GHz then the next time it might show 3.17Ghz and it will be different all of the time.

Is that to do with Turbo mode or something?

Setting I used for the overclock incase you need them are:-

Overclocking - manual
all cores - 45
ofset - + 0.015
c1e - enabled
c6 disabled
power saving - disabled

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greenbrucelee*
> 
> I have a bit of an issue with my asus sabertooth z77.
> I have a corsair hx650w and the 8 pin connector will not reach behind the case (corsair 600T) so I have to go straight up which screws up the cable management look that the case is designed for. *Another thing is that the 8 pin connector keeps coming out but only ever so slightly.
> Do you guys think I should buy an extender so I can route it round the back?*
> Also another question I overclocked the i2500k I have to 4.5GHz when I start the system and see POST I see the bit where it shows that I have the i2500k and it runs at 3.3GHz but below that it says speed and shows something like 3308 GHz then the next time it might show 3.17Ghz and it will be different all of the time.
> Is that to do with Turbo mode or something?
> Setting I used for the overclock incase you need them are:-
> Overclocking - manual
> all cores - 45
> ofset - + 0.015
> c1e - enabled
> c6 disabled
> power saving - disabled
> Any help would be appreciated.


I'm not much help on the overclocking because I'm still getting used to Intel. But you definitely need to make sure that 8pin is secure. An extender is a great way to fix your cable management issue and ensure it won't come loose.


----------



## Greenbrucelee

I think I have found the reason why the 8 pin keeps coming out. In the 600T case there is a dust filter at the bottom which should mean the psu should be mounted with the fan at the bottom but I have mounted the psu with the fan facing up. So this means the 8 pin connector is further away from the motherboard than it should be so hence the reason it is being pulled out.

I will put the psu fan facing down when I get home and heopfully I should be able to routh the cable around the back and make it totally secure. If not I will get an extender.

I also found that the reason the clock speed is different at POST is due to EIST,C1E and Turbo. When I am in windows its the normal 1600MHz at idle and 4.5 at load.


----------



## ChrisB17

How do I adjust my imc voltage on this board? I see it no where in bios.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> I have a Core i5 3570K and Patriot PVI316G213C1QK Viper Intel Extreme Masters 3 16GB DDR3 2133MHz 4x4GB kit.
> What I need to know is how to set starting values of the processor and the memory by default, ie without OC.
> I also use the TurboBoost but not I have a Core i5 3570K and memories PVI316G213C1QK Patriot Viper Intel ® Extreme Masters 3 16GB DDR3 2133MHz 4x4GB kit.
> What I need to know is how to set starting values of the processor and the memory by default, ie without OC.
> I also use the SpeedStep but not SpeedStep.
> In what I have to set starting values by default the same?
> Since I don't know what the stock voltage of the processor, as in the Intel page doesn't report it.
> Suggestions?
> Thanks!
> PS: To be clear I don't want everything to AUTO set starting but manually


None?


----------



## Trackzilla

Anyone know how much current or wattage is available at the fan ports without stressing the motherboard?

Historically I use a rather gnarly external fan with an external power supply to win the heat/quiet game in these 1U builds but I'm wondering if I could connect the little beastie to the MB to do away with the external wall wart & gain some programmable 'on demand' flexibility for the fan...but it eats like 750mA...


----------



## tuxx

Hey guys, anyone having any trouble with any of the bios versions after 1504? every now and than since 1504, my PC just slows down to a hault, requiring me to restart my PC.. and than it takes a good 5-10 minutes to boot back into windows...

im assuming its the bios version because i go back to 1504 and it stops., the latest version wasn't as bad as the one after 1504 but it still happened.

in saying that, what have you found to be best bios version so far?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> I have a Core i5 3570K and Patriot PVI316G213C1QK Viper Intel Extreme Masters 3 16GB DDR3 2133MHz 4x4GB kit.
> 
> What I need to know is how to set starting values of the processor and the memory by default, ie without OC.
> I also use the TurboBoost but not I have a Core i5 3570K and memories PVI316G213C1QK Patriot Viper Intel ® Extreme Masters 3 16GB DDR3 2133MHz 4x4GB kit.
> 
> What I need to know is how to set starting values of the processor and the memory by default, ie without OC.
> I also use the SpeedStep but not SpeedStep.
> 
> In what I have to set starting values by default the same?
> Since I don't know what the stock voltage of the processor, as in the Intel page doesn't report it.
> 
> Suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> PS: To be clear I don't want everything to AUTO set starting but manually
> 
> 
> 
> None?
Click to expand...

Your post a little bit confusing; _"I also use the SpeedStep but not SpeedStep"_. Try clean it up a bit. If you want running at stock frequency, you don't need to set/change anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> How do I adjust my imc voltage on this board? I see it no where in bios.


That would be VCCSA voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trackzilla*
> 
> Anyone know how much current or wattage is available at the fan ports without stressing the motherboard?
> 
> Historically I use a rather gnarly external fan with an external power supply to win the heat/quiet game in these 1U builds but I'm wondering if I could connect the little beastie to the MB to do away with the external wall wart & gain some programmable 'on demand' flexibility for the fan...but it eats like 750mA...


I don't think It will stressing the motherboard. The fan will get whatever the motherboard supply. I don't think the fan header on the motherboard will supply above the rated amperage for that fan header. For example, if the fan has rated amperage higher than the rated amperage of the fan header, the fan should be limited by the amount of amperage the fan header can supply. Check motherboard manual, see if you can find something like _"The CPU_FAN connector supports the CPU fan of maximum 1A (12 W) fan power."_.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> None?


See the tread between Dubbed and myself. I had RAM issues so starting from ground zero at the moment. Only thing I changed was ram voltage to 1.55, that's all.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/1220#post_18832490

Now that you're in stock settings, run prime95 to check for any issues. while prime95 is running, run CPUZ and CORETEMP so you can see your VID (Coretemp) and Core Voltage (CPUZ) at stock(Auto) voltages. When overclocking, the suggested base clock multiplier is 4.0GHZ. At this point you need to copy Dubb's settings here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293

Then read Swag's IB OC guide (note Swag has a diffierent MOBO so copy Dubb's settings). At the bottom of the thread under the section titled: Recommended Software the guide starts going over stress testing. You can OC to 4.2 gHz which is plenty for everyday use.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

If you need help with the guide post on that thread, post here if you have questions about the mobo.

Happy OC'ing.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> See the tread between Dubbed and myself. I had RAM issues so starting from ground zero at the moment. Only thing I changed was ram voltage to 1.55, that's all.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/1220#post_18832490
> Now that you're in stock settings, run prime95 to check for any issues. while prime95 is running, run CPUZ and CORETEMP so you can see your VID (Coretemp) and Core Voltage (CPUZ) at stock(Auto) voltages. When overclocking, the suggested base clock multiplier is 4.0GHZ. At this point you need to copy Dubb's settings here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> Then read Swag's IB OC guide (note Swag has a diffierent MOBO so copy Dubb's settings). At the bottom of the thread under the section titled: Recommended Software the guide starts going over stress testing. You can OC to 4.2 gHz which is plenty for everyday use.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
> If you need help with the guide post on that thread, post here if you have questions about the mobo.
> Happy OC'ing.


great reply








We are all learning from each other!


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> great reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are all learning from each other!


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Your post a little bit confusing; _"I also use the SpeedStep but not SpeedStep"_. Try clean it up a bit. If you want running at stock frequency, you don't need to set/change anything.
> That would be VCCSA voltage.
> I don't think It will stressing the motherboard. The fan will get whatever the motherboard supply. I don't think the fan header on the motherboard will supply above the rated amperage for that fan header. For example, if the fan has rated amperage higher than the rated amperage of the fan header, the fan should be limited by the amount of amperage the fan header can supply. Check motherboard manual, see if you can find something like _"The CPU_FAN connector supports the CPU fan of maximum 1A (12 W) fan power."_.


Sorry for my English...
I meant that I use the TurboBoost but not SpeedStep.

I think I understand.
What I wonder is like leaving everything stock so no set starting configurations set to "auto", and I don't want to Overclock for now.

It is understood a little better now?


----------



## kizwan

Did you disabled SpeedStep because you want the CPU running at max frequency all the time? If you want to run CPU in stock frequency, meaning not overclock, you don't need to change any settings in the UEFI BIOS. UEFI BIOS will automatically set the proper default settings for CPU & memory.

Regarding the memory, does it run without any problem out-of-box? Meaning you just put the memory & your computer can boot without any problem with it. If yes, then you don't need to change or set any settings too. The only setting you want to set is probably enabling XMP profile in UEFI. The Patriot PVI316G213C1QK Viper Intel Extreme Masters 3 does support XMP profile.


----------



## Gandyman

Hey guys how we all doing?

I have an issue arise with my sabertooth I'm guessing its something small ive just overlooked so before I go around rmaing this amaizng mobo (omg i dont wanna pull my pc apart) I thought I would thinktank with you fellas (hi dubbed). anyways so i have a logitech keyboard and it has a 3.5m jack for headphones which i usually use, and have bene u sing since isntalling my pc, so a friend came around the other day and we wanted to watch some game of thrones so i got out my pc speakers, plugged then into the green 3.5m jack on the back of the mobo, the pop up thing asked me if it was audio out, i clicked yes, and ..... no sound. at all. i tested the speakers coming out of the 3.5m jack on my keyboard and they work fine, so we were able to watch no problems, but im just worried that the audio on the mobo is faulty? so my questions are:

1. Has anyone else had an issue with the onboard sound?
2. Is there some small software thing I may be overlooking? (I made sure it was default device in windows etc im not a pc novice)
3. Supposing there is an issue with it, would it be worth pulling my build apart and RMA? or I could
4 Buy a sound card (one that isn't realtek I've had such a gutfull of them over the years)

Thanks in advance to all you lovely peeps


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Hey guys how we all doing?
> I have an issue arise with my sabertooth I'm guessing its something small ive just overlooked so before I go around rmaing this amaizng mobo (omg i dont wanna pull my pc apart) I thought I would thinktank with you fellas (hi dubbed). anyways so i have a logitech keyboard and it has a 3.5m jack for headphones which i usually use, and have bene u sing since isntalling my pc, so a friend came around the other day and we wanted to watch some game of thrones so i got out my pc speakers, plugged then into the green 3.5m jack on the back of the mobo, the pop up thing asked me if it was audio out, i clicked yes, and ..... no sound. at all. i tested the speakers coming out of the 3.5m jack on my keyboard and they work fine, so we were able to watch no problems, but im just worried that the audio on the mobo is faulty? so my questions are:
> 1. Has anyone else had an issue with the onboard sound?
> 2. Is there some small software thing I may be overlooking? (I made sure it was default device in windows etc im not a pc novice)
> 3. Supposing there is an issue with it, would it be worth pulling my build apart and RMA? or I could
> 4 Buy a sound card (one that isn't realtek I've had such a gutfull of them over the years)
> Thanks in advance to all you lovely peeps


Are you running the latest audio drivers from the ASUS website? I updated mine a few days ago and it made a world of difference when switching between my headset and my desktop 2.1 system, plus it enabled my EQ so I could tune it for my headset.

Do you have a front headphone port, and if so, does it output sound?

Have you tried unplugging your keyboard to see if it's interfering? The Logitech USB sound drivers may have a conflict.

I don't think this is a motherboard issue. It's possible, but I doubt it. Plus from what I've heard you want to avoid the ASUS RMA process at all costs.


----------



## Gandyman

Hey man thanks for the reply, yea it seems so obvious but often overlooked just updating drivers, I did just re install them to be sure, exact same issue. when i plug my speakers in they crackle like there's some form of signal there but nothing the test button shows it playing sounds, as does the equalizer but nothing comes out. I tried uninstalling the drivers from my keyboard and using my old poor sidewinder which gets left in the cupboard for emergencies only purposes







and still didn't work. as for the front panel stuff, i dont even get a 'you plugged in a device' so either i haven't plugged it into the mobo properly ... there's some option in the asus thing to switch from HD audo to ac97 on the front panel ... its all so confusing. for now im just choosing to ignore it and manually unplug my headphones from my keyboard and replace it with the speakers when i want external sound. the only inconvenience there is i cant use my headset for skype or other voip and have music/game sounds out of speakers. I think im just going to buy a soundcard because all this really makes my head hurt. There are like 20ish devices when i go to windows playback tab ... absolutely ridiculous. I want my old motherboards back ... well at least the sound portion lol

edit: I was inspired by your build and ordered myself a c70 for xmas, to touch an old topic


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> Hey man thanks for the reply, yea it seems so obvious but often overlooked just updating drivers, I did just re install them to be sure, exact same issue. when i plug my speakers in they crackle like there's some form of signal there but nothing the test button shows it playing sounds, as does the equalizer but nothing comes out. I tried uninstalling the drivers from my keyboard and using my old poor sidewinder which gets left in the cupboard for emergencies only purposes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and still didn't work. as for the front panel stuff, i dont even get a 'you plugged in a device' so either i haven't plugged it into the mobo properly ... there's some option in the asus thing to switch from HD audo to ac97 on the front panel ... its all so confusing. for now im just choosing to ignore it and manually unplug my headphones from my keyboard and replace it with the speakers when i want external sound. the only inconvenience there is i cant use my headset for skype or other voip and have music/game sounds out of speakers. I think im just going to buy a soundcard because all this really makes my head hurt. *There are like 20ish devices when i go to windows playback tab* ... absolutely ridiculous. I want my old motherboards back ... well at least the sound portion lol
> edit: I was inspired by your build and ordered myself a c70 for xmas, to touch an old topic


I know this is probably something you've already tried, but have you verified that your speakers are working by plugging them into another device, like your cell phone for example?

How do you have so many playback devices? Even including my HDMI audio, and the front panel connections, I don't think I have more than 6.

Do you have any other sound programs installed? I know some games like Dirt3 install their own audio stuff, and there's a chance that's causing an issue...

(I'm glad my build could be an inspiration, I love my C70, and I hope you enjoy it as well







)


----------



## Am3Y

Guys Can Anyone Help me with Updating My Drivers....
I am totally Confused ..As on the Download Page Of ASUS ..every Version Description Has Diff Drivers..
Is there any soft which Can Update all the Drivers N Motherboard Utilities??? Or is There Such Option In AISuite ???
Plzz Reply


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys Can Anyone Help me with Updating My Drivers....
> I am totally Confused ..As on the Download Page Of ASUS ..every Version Description Has Diff Drivers..
> Is there any soft which Can Update all the Drivers N Motherboard Utilities??? Or is There Such Option In AISuite ???
> Plzz Reply


My recommendation is to use the latest version of both the drivers and utilities. ASUS sorts their downloads in each section by release date, so the top download is the most recent (newest) version available. So for example, in the image below, the Audio driver with the date circled in red is the newest(released 9/26), while the blue is an older version(released 7/18).



I don't know if AI Suite can update anything other than your BIOS.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you disabled SpeedStep because you want the CPU running at max frequency all the time? If you want to run CPU in stock frequency, meaning not overclock, you don't need to change any settings in the UEFI BIOS. UEFI BIOS will automatically set the proper default settings for CPU & memory.
> Regarding the memory, does it run without any problem out-of-box? Meaning you just put the memory & your computer can boot without any problem with it. If yes, then you don't need to change or set any settings too. The only setting you want to set is probably enabling XMP profile in UEFI. The Patriot PVI316G213C1QK Viper Intel Extreme Masters 3 does support XMP profile.


Thanks for reply kizwan!

I've memories configured with XMS profile, running a real speed (2133 MHz).

The issue is that I don't want to raise or lower the processor voltage and speed all the time, as this wears out the components.

I don't want to use SpeedStep because in my opinion is almost touching the physical explanation, and serious summary: within a chip electricity (voltage) is moved in small cracks or "paths" through which energy moves precisely, to put a you say you fixed voltage on that chip energy path is always the same (the more voltage is the deepest trough microscopic).

By having all SpeedStep Intel ensures that the user is "spent" processor, or actually wear it physically, the variable voltage is marking the silicon again and again, causing the degradation is greater than a fixed speed who uses with fixed voltage.

Here chips will work well, but will react better chip "care" when required, that one degraded and it shows a lot more as time goes on and the hours and months of use accumulate.

The explanation is much too long and theory, but I think basically understood why vcore fixed voltage and low.


----------



## ChrisB17

I cant get this board stable with my sig rig specs. Uhg help please


----------



## thetimmer42

Finally got mine built. Holy crap! I'm use to mid-grade boards, so I don't know if this one is common but the BIOS is so amazing!

First problem with it though is that I tried hooking up to the onboard Display Port, but couldn't get it to put out any video. I then chucked a card in to look if I needed to do anything in the BIOS, but didn't find any options relating to the graphics at all.

I'm using a i7 3770K CPU, and am expecting to use the built in Intel HD 4000, so I'm hoping I just need to flash?


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetimmer42*
> 
> Finally got mine built. Holy crap! I'm use to mid-grade boards, so I don't know if this one is common but the BIOS is so amazing!
> First problem with it though is that I tried hooking up to the onboard Display Port, but couldn't get it to put out any video. I then chucked a card in to look if I needed to do anything in the BIOS, but didn't find any options relating to the graphics at all.
> I'm using a i7 3770K CPU, and am expecting to use the built in Intel HD 4000, so I'm hoping I just need to flash?


I just built mine up, and my DisplayPort worked right on first boot. I knew I needed some drivers and OS tweaks for my 680 because my Display kept blacking out after a few minutes when plugged into my 680, so I ran on-board for OS install/updates and drivers set up. Try a BIOS flash - hopefully it's not a DOA mobo =X


----------



## Gandyman

ugh my back is so sore from crawling under my desk to try my speakers in multiple different configurations ive tried so many things short of re installing windows i cant get the sound to work -.-
in all reality it should just work from the box right? ugh im so disappointed everything was working fine .. better then fine untill now


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> ugh my back is so sore from crawling under my desk to try my speakers in multiple different configurations ive tried so many things short of re installing windows i cant get the sound to work -.-
> in all reality it should just work from the box right? ugh im so disappointed everything was working fine .. better then fine untill now


So you are using on board sound than right?

Did you enable HD Audio in the UEFI?


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gandyman*
> 
> ugh my back is so sore from crawling under my desk to try my speakers in multiple different configurations ive tried so many things short of re installing windows i cant get the sound to work -.-
> in all reality it should just work from the box right? ugh im so disappointed everything was working fine .. better then fine untill now


I would unplug the cases front panel audio connector, in case of conflict or faults there. Test the onboard after that. Make sure you decide if audio is to be HD or AC97 in bios , try both







good luck !


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetimmer42*
> 
> Finally got mine built. Holy crap! I'm use to mid-grade boards, so I don't know if this one is common but the BIOS is so amazing!
> First problem with it though is that I tried hooking up to the onboard Display Port, but couldn't get it to put out any video. I then chucked a card in to look if I needed to do anything in the BIOS, but didn't find any options relating to the graphics at all.
> I'm using a i7 3770K CPU, and am expecting to use the built in Intel HD 4000, so I'm hoping I just need to flash?


You need to enable iGPU as primary display (page 3-26) and if you want or have a card installed the iGPU multi monitor option enabled also. in bios its Advanced tab - system agent configuration then under graphics configuration. By default mine was off so I assume you need a graphics card just to boot into bios and see this option.


----------



## iARDAs

Tomorrow I am carrying my system to a Corsair 500R from a Corsair 800D

I was not happy with the air flow of the 800D and decided a midtower like 500R can make me happy.

Hoping that the thermal armor of the Sabertooth Z77 will not interfee with the H100 that I will be installing above.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Tomorrow I am carrying my system to a Corsair 500R from a Corsair 800D
> 
> I was not happy with the air flow of the 800D and decided a midtower like 500R can make me happy.
> 
> Hoping that the thermal armor of the Sabertooth Z77 will not interfee with the H100 that I will be installing above.


you might have a little bit of a problem depending on how the fans will be placed - you'll find out soon enough I guess, but my midi R4 case, I don't know if a rad at the top would be possible with the thermal armour on


----------



## iARDAs

I really hope it will be possible 

Tomorrow my case arrives and I will be taking lots of pictures and add them here.


----------



## thetimmer42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dymmy*
> 
> You need to enable iGPU as primary display (page 3-26) and if you want or have a card installed the iGPU multi monitor option enabled also. in bios its Advanced tab - system agent configuration then under graphics configuration. By default mine was off so I assume you need a graphics card just to boot into bios and see this option.


It was a BIOS version issue. My board was running 1504, and after updating to 1708 I could then see the options for the iGPU that were mentioned in the manual.

On a separate note, what software from the disk is worth installing?


----------



## thetimmer42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Tomorrow I am carrying my system to a Corsair 500R from a Corsair 800D
> 
> I was not happy with the air flow of the 800D and decided a midtower like 500R can make me happy.
> 
> Hoping that the thermal armor of the Sabertooth Z77 will not interfee with the H100 that I will be installing above.


I just got the 300R and love the design so far. I'm going with a non-liquid build and put in 140mm fans in front and top, and replaced the 120 in the rear. Though I haven't started doing much with it that would kick up the heat, I'm sitting at 28 C on the CPU and 34 C on the motherboard. I also, did not install the 40mm fans on the board, so it could be less if you're doing that.


----------



## Badge56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetimmer42*
> 
> It was a BIOS version issue. My board was running 1504, and after updating to 1708 I could then see the options for the iGPU that were mentioned in the manual.
> On a separate note, what software from the disk is worth installing?


NONE never use the CD/DVD Go to the web site and download the newer versions. They are 99% of the time outdated on the disks.

All the drivers, I like the Asus PC diagnostics and Ai suite 2 (I do not overclock with it, use BIOS).
Hope this helps


----------



## ChrisB17

can someone please explain why this board wont let me go over 44x multi? I set 45x in bios and boot to windows to see CPUZ showing 4.4 ghz 44x multi. WT


----------



## saura

I've got something similar I've got 2 profiles in the BIOS 4.4 and 4.5 but it never makes the multiplier stick.... It basically remembers the last multi so you have to change it via Turbo EVO for the multiplier to stick on reboots. Weird and very annoying. All the other profile settings change like offset / pll / llc etc as per normal behaviour except the multi.

Maybe it's a bug with the latest BIOS as I've never noticed it before ?

Can anyone confirm this ?


----------



## DuckKnuckle

Hey guys,

So I received my Sabertooth Z77 today but I'm having quite a but of difficulty installing my drives and AI Suite II. The install cd constantly becomes unresponsive and it's really getting to me now.

Has anyone else experienced these issues? Were you able to fix it?

I've tried restarting my pc which didn't help. I can't run as admin because it becomes unresponsive. I'm running win7 64bit if that helps.

Thanks


----------



## ChrisB17

I fixed it by reflashing bios. Now I cant for the life of me get my ram stable and rated speeds. Uhgggggg


----------



## chillidog

alright lads haven't been on the forum for a while but nice to be back, am almost ready of building up my new rig asus z77 sabertooth but am bit of a puzzle to which cooler to go for. case is coolmaster haf 912 and Corsair Vengeance Black memory
was thinking about the new h100i but that got problems and then i throught about the h100 would i get away with that or the h80i. am planning to do a small oc with the 3570k around 4.4-4.5

any ideas?


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I fixed it by reflashing bios. Now I cant for the life of me get my ram stable and rated speeds. Uhgggggg


Sorry mate, I should have posted earlier but the fix is to do a clear cmos (it doesn't wipe your oc) this fixed the problem with the multiplier for me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> alright lads


Awight geeza.

Yeah I don't see the need to buy these expensive blocks. If you're good with your overclock you can get away with a lot cheaper.

I run a Xigmatek Gaia (20 squid) for my 4.4 and 4.5 overclocks ..... Although for 4.6 I need better cooling


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> alright lads haven't been on the forum for a while but nice to be back, am almost ready of building up my new rig asus z77 sabertooth but am bit of a puzzle to which cooler to go for. case is coolmaster haf 912 and Corsair Vengeance Black memory
> was thinking about the new h100i but that got problems and then i throught about the h100 would i get away with that or the h80i. am planning to do a small oc with the 3570k around 4.4-4.5
> any ideas?


If you don't want the double rad - why not go for the one I have - the Antec 920?
H80i - will suffice too by the way


----------



## ChrisB17

Still cant get this stable. Im wondering if this board cant handle the Crucial ram or something? I had no issues on my UD5h


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Still cant get this stable. Im wondering if this board cant handle the Crucial ram or something? I had no issues on my UD5h


I am running my DRAM voltage @1.55 to get mine to stabilise. You must set memory to XMP and set the speed manually ie mine is 1866mhz this stabilised my setup and after a couple of boots it calms down . Don't ask me why this is I do not fully understand but it has behaved eversince.

Also how many sticks of RAM and in what slots ? read the manual on this matter I did two at a time A2, B2 all 4 at once freaked it out.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DuckKnuckle*
> 
> Hey guys,
> So I received my Sabertooth Z77 today but I'm having quite a but of difficulty installing my drives and AI Suite II. The install cd constantly becomes unresponsive and it's really getting to me now.
> Has anyone else experienced these issues? Were you able to fix it?
> I've tried restarting my pc which didn't help. I can't run as admin because it becomes unresponsive. I'm running win7 64bit if that helps.
> Thanks


copy the relevant folder from disc to desktop but guaranteed the ones on the ASUS site are more upto date. Flash the latest BIOS too ,1504 was very buggy imo.


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dymmy*
> 
> copy the relevant folder from disc to desktop but guaranteed the ones on the ASUS site are more upto date. Flash the latest BIOS too ,1504 was very buggy imo.


i've found it to be the best one, seems nobody replied to my post few pages back regarding issues with bios updates


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> i've found it to be the best one, seems nobody replied to my post few pages back regarding issues with bios updates


Regarding BIOS you can update it and see how it goes and if you dont get on reflash it back to 1504. But you will have to forcefeed the mobo using the flash bios button on the rear. I have been up and down with my BIOS and no problem at all. I installed my Windows 7 pro and all drivers once I had updated (as it booted properly) and all this using an external USB DVD reader. Not sure it would have got that far on 1504 myself.


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> can someone please explain why this board wont let me go over 44x multi? I set 45x in bios and boot to windows to see CPUZ showing 4.4 ghz 44x multi. WT


Windows throttling it back under power options ? just a guess.


----------



## MrHamm

Hello Forum members.

I posted this on the switch 810 thread but thought I would also ask here.

I have a Asus z77 Sabertooth mobo and a Switch 810 case.

I'm in the process of installing all the wiring on the motherboard from the case and psu.

I can't seem to locate "system warning speaker" (4pin) under System Panel Connector.

I have everything else installed on that 20-8pin (System power LED, HDD LED, ATX Power, Reset).

Am i missing something? Need some assistance.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dymmy*
> 
> Windows throttling it back under power options ? just a guess.


Nope, that comes from your CPU ratio throttling, nothing to do with the BIOS refusing it.
But you're on track.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> Hello Forum members.
> I posted this on the switch 810 thread but thought I would also ask here.
> I have a Asus z77 Sabertooth mobo and a Switch 810 case.
> I'm in the process of installing all the wiring on the motherboard from the case and psu.
> I can't seem to locate "system warning speaker" (4pin) under System Panel Connector.
> I have everything else installed on that 20-8pin (System power LED, HDD LED, ATX Power, Reset).
> Am i missing something? Need some assistance.


I never put mine in, because I didn't have the option to do so with my case


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> Hello Forum members.
> I posted this on the switch 810 thread but thought I would also ask here.
> I have a Asus z77 Sabertooth mobo and a Switch 810 case.
> I'm in the process of installing all the wiring on the motherboard from the case and psu.
> I can't seem to locate "system warning speaker" (4pin) under System Panel Connector.
> I have everything else installed on that 20-8pin (System power LED, HDD LED, ATX Power, Reset).
> Am i missing something? Need some assistance.


system warning speaker is not on board you have to buy one but if i am correct its cornection point is at the bottom as shown in red your manual should tell you


----------



## DuckKnuckle

Got my Sabertooth Z77 installed today


----------



## xD3S1x

hey everyone..

i have the same motherboard and GTX 670

I cannot get my Second Monitor to work.

I have Asus 3D monitor 120Hz
&
Samsung Syncmaster P2450

Asus is connected using dual link dvi and samsung is connected using single link..

i got GTX 560Ti in my second PC and both monitors work fine with it.

but on this System which i just built few daysa go.. i cannot get the second monitor (Samsung) to show up in NVidia Panel or Screen Res settings

System Specs:
Asus Sabertooth Z77
i7 3770k
MSI GTX 670 OC Power Edition

Monitors:
Asus VG278H
Samsung SyncMaster P2450

nVidia Drivers:
310.70
i tried changing the cables around nothing.

the connection you see on the bottom right thats the one am using now. My samsung monitor works in that connection. but when i connect it to the other on (top right) it doesn't.

also i connected my Asus to bottom right and tried using HDMI on Samsung and still nothing. could it be something to do with settings somewhere? if the port was faulty HDMI should have worked right..?

would appreciate any help

Thank You

i tried Asus Monitor into top right and Samsung into bottom right. Samsung becomes the main monitor and i get nothing on Asus Monitor.

If i connect the Asus into bottom right and connect the samsung into HDMI cable. I get no signal over HDMI.
and yes am switching the connection on my monitors depending on what signal am using.


----------



## Trackzilla

xD3S1x:
can we safely assume that you've already gone to display settings in windows and told it to use the second monitor as an extended desktop?


----------



## xD3S1x

second monitor is not shown there. thats the problem ;(

Update: so i tried changing connections again..

this is what happens

If i am using a single monitor i can use it in either DVI-I or DVI-D but when i connect both monitors which ever monitor is connected to DVI-I [connection next to HDMI port] becomes the main monitor and i get nothing on the second monitor.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3S1x*
> 
> hey everyone..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> i have the same motherboard and GTX 670
> I cannot get my Second Monitor to work.
> I have Asus 3D monitor 120Hz
> &
> Samsung Syncmaster P2450
> Asus is connected using dual link dvi and samsung is connected using single link..
> i got GTX 560Ti in my second PC and both monitors work fine with it.
> but on this System which i just built few daysa go.. i cannot get the second monitor (Samsung) to show up in NVidia Panel or Screen Res settings
> System Specs:
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> i7 3770k
> MSI GTX 670 OC Power Edition
> 
> 
> 
> Monitors:
> Asus VG278H
> Samsung SyncMaster P2450
> 
> nVidia Drivers:
> 310.70
> i tried changing the cables around nothing.
> 
> the connection you see on the bottom right thats the one am using now. My samsung monitor works in that connection. but when i connect it to the other on (top right) it doesn't.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> also i connected my Asus to bottom right and tried using HDMI on Samsung and still nothing. could it be something to do with settings somewhere? if the port was faulty HDMI should have worked right..?
> would appreciate any help
> Thank You
> i tried Asus Monitor into top right and Samsung into bottom right. Samsung becomes the main monitor and i get nothing on Asus Monitor.
> If i connect the Asus into bottom right and connect the samsung into HDMI cable. I get no signal over HDMI.
> and yes am switching the connection on my monitors depending on what signal am using.


Both DVI ports are dual link; the top one is DVI-D (dual link) & the bottom one is DVI-I (dual link). I checked your monitors & found both (1 & 2) has DVI-D port. So, the right cables for both monitors are DVI-D cables. Did you use DVI-D cables for both monitors?


----------



## xD3S1x

yes DVI-D cable for both Monitors

Asus has DVI-D (Dual Link) and Samsung has DVI-D (single Link)


----------



## kizwan

If both DVI ports worked individually, probably something is wrong with the VBIOS (i.e. GPU BIOS). You might want to check with MSI.


----------



## MrHamm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> system warning speaker is not on board you have to buy one but if i am correct its cornection point is at the bottom as shown in red your manual should tell you


Thanks for your reply. I've read the manual. Just making sure that I don't need to have it plugged in.

Couldn't locate the wire from my case.

Does anyone install the "system warning speaker"?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> system warning speaker is not on board you have to buy one but if i am correct its cornection point is at the bottom as shown in red your manual should tell you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I've read the manual. Just making sure that I don't need to have it plugged in.
> 
> Couldn't locate the wire from my case.
> 
> Does anyone install the "system warning speaker"?
Click to expand...

Seems few do anymore. I don't. Mainly only good for trouble shooting POST issues when booting. Some use it for that short term during initial install, or for extreme benching if the board does not have an onboard LED display.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My R4 case didn't even have a speaker wire lol.


----------



## chillidog

you welcome
some people do and some don't some like to hear that little bleep sound upon starting up,but personally its a bit of waste of time and money as some motherboards manfactures dont supplie them ence extra cost
if anything going to happen you would know anyway


----------



## ppunter

Hi guys, just finished my new rig. Is there any significant difference between the pci-e 3.0 slots wen using only one gpu?
I placed my gtx 670 in the 2nd pci-e slot because i think that looks better. (see my avatar)
Any comments, suggestions?


----------



## iARDAs

I just broke the USB 3.0 slot on my motherboard.


----------



## ChrisB17

Going on almost a week now and still can't get my sig rig stable. At this point I miss my gigabyte board.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Going on almost a week now and still can't get my sig rig stable. At this point I miss my gigabyte board.


I tried helping out, but to no avail.
What seems to be the problem?
Are you sure it isn't physical hardware related?

I had bad RAM - and couldn't get a stable OC for 1 month, then went to stock...and realised where it was all going wrong.
I also thought I couldn't get a stable OC, and was about to give up on the i7 + Z77


----------



## xHoLy

hey,

i need a little help









when i play newer games like hitman absolution or especially far cry 3 my graphic card (gtx 690) reaches 90+ °C and it seems to heat up the nearby areas around it and i get warning messages like this:
"WARNING! PCIE-2 60,0 centigrade"
I also got message for USB3.0 reaching 70°C

my motherboard is ofc Asus Sabertooth Z77

i am not sure if its a problem or not, is it safe to play with these conditions without harming my motherboard or graphic card?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoLy*****
> 
> hey,
> i need a little help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when i play newer games like hitman absolution or especially far cry 3 my graphic card (gtx 690) reaches 90+ °C and it seems to heat up the nearby areas around it and i get warning messages like this:
> "WARNING! PCIE-2 60,0 centigrade"
> I also got message for USB3.0 reaching 70°C
> my motherboard is ofc Asus Sabertooth Z77
> i am not sure if its a problem or not, is it safe to play with these conditions without harming my motherboard or graphic card?


Hey there mate!

Where are you getting these readings?
Via AI Suite II?
If so - ignore them. Get MSI afterburner or something that came with the card to monitor the real temps of your GPU.
90c for GPU would = burnt

But similarly, my AI Suite II told me I was running at 127c on my CPU LOL
So in other words, the AI Suite II is giving you BOARD temperatures, and they are quite often completely wrong.


----------



## xHoLy

ye i get these messages from AI Suite II and i used msi afterburner to check my graphic card gpus temperature,

after playing far cry3 for like 20 mins GPU1 was constantly around 92°C while GPU2 around 90°C


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoLy*****
> 
> ye i get these messages from AI Suite II and i used msi afterburner to check my graphic card gpus temperature,
> after playing far cry3 for like 20 mins GPU1 was constantly around 92°C while GPU2 around 90°C


And GPU1 and 2 are via afterburner 0.0!?
If so...that's not right - someone correct me if I'm wrong, but mine never goes above 70c.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HoLy*****
> 
> ye i get these messages from AI Suite II and i used msi afterburner to check my graphic card gpus temperature,
> after playing far cry3 for like 20 mins GPU1 was constantly around 92°C while GPU2 around 90°C
> 
> 
> 
> And GPU1 and 2 are via afterburner 0.0!?
> If so...that's not right - someone correct me if I'm wrong, but mine never goes above 70c.
Click to expand...

That is too hot to run like that for long. You need to consider better cooling in your case. Do you have any fans? How many? What configuration?


----------



## Edb007th

hey guys.... quick question....

woke up this morning, put on my system and I noticed the temps on coretemp (which are usually at 34c) are idle at 74c! she's been running great since april when i built it. any quick things i should check? i checked the fans, and all working properly. the corsair h100 is still set on the second setting and working properly, as far as i can tell. any quick checks would be appreciated. thanks.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> hey guys.... quick question....
> woke up this morning, put on my system and I noticed the temps on coretemp (which are usually at 34c) are idle at 74c! she's been running great since april when i built it. any quick things i should check? i checked the fans, and all working properly. the corsair h100 is still set on the second setting and working properly, as far as i can tell. any quick checks would be appreciated. thanks.


If there is such a great increase at temp all of a sudden without any hardware changes etc, I think your sensors might be broken.


----------



## Edb007th

havent been any hardware changes since day one.

i saw the temp change and puckered. afraid to play anything till i figure it out.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> hey guys.... quick question....
> 
> woke up this morning, put on my system and I noticed the temps on coretemp (which are usually at 34c) are idle at 74c! she's been running great since april when i built it. any quick things i should check? i checked the fans, and all working properly. the corsair h100 is still set on the second setting and working properly, as far as i can tell. any quick checks would be appreciated. thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> If there is such a great increase at temp all of a sudden without any hardware changes etc, I think your sensors might be broken.
Click to expand...

Or something else is broken.... What does it say in BIOS for CPU temp? Also adjust the H100 to max and see if it gets any cooler or not. Look for leaks.... (Sure hope not). Any new noise from it?


----------



## Edb007th

ok, cpu temps in bios are between 80c and 82c. resume pucker.

ok gonna tear it down after the holiday.... thanks for the quick replies, guys.. merry christmas...!


----------



## xHoLy

coolermaster silencio 650 case with only 2 fans + cpu fan (cooler master hyper 612s rr-h612-13fk-r1)
i guess i need more fans and dunno lol ...


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> ok, cpu temps in bios are between 80c and 82c. resume pucker.


If you have not done so already, check your cooler mount. Probably redo it. It should not idle at 80C as you know. I hope it is just a sensor, but you have to verify the HSF is working. Maybe attach your stock cooler as a test. Also, remove any OC and lower vcore.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> That is too hot to run like that for long. You need to consider better cooling in your case. Do you have any fans? How many? What configuration?


If you were referring me - here's me at idle - I'm fine on temps


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> If you have not done so already, check your cooler mount. Probably redo it. It should not idle at 80C as you know. I hope it is just a sensor, but you have to verify the HSF is working. Maybe attach your stock cooler as a test. Also, remove any OC and lower vcore.


yeah do this, step dads PC was doing the same thing, he removed the cooler, replaced thermalpaste and put the cooler back on, went back to normal.


----------



## morta

Hello all im in need of some help. this is my first time doing an intel set up.installing cpus and an intel motherbord.iv gon from an amd system and im running into some problems. iv installed all the hardware and iv managed to keep my previuse hardrives and OS. i can turn the computer on and i see the asus logo. and it will boot into windows np and all my files are still intact. but for some resson my internet wont work.and i cant get into bios.if i press DEL at the logo i just get a black screen and either i have to press restart or turn of the power. i dont no what to do. allso lookin at hardware monitor my temps for the packedge are around 34c at idel. i dont no if this is the normal temp for a corsair H100 and i did apply the thermal past with the pea size blob in the middle of the cpu and then just placing the h100 block ontop of it..i did not spread the thermal paste as i sore on a few videos and comments that it was a bad way of doing it. can anyone help me out with the bios and internet issue i am having. thanks


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> Hello all im in need of some help. this is my first time doing an intel set up.installing cpus and an intel motherbord.iv gon from an amd system and im running into some problems. iv installed all the hardware and iv managed to keep my previuse hardrives and OS. i can turn the computer on and i see the asus logo. and it will boot into windows np and all my files are still intact. but for some resson my internet wont work.and i cant get into bios.if i press DEL at the logo i just get a black screen and either i have to press restart or turn of the power. i dont no what to do. allso lookin at hardware monitor my temps for the packedge are around 34c at idel. i dont no if this is the normal temp for a corsair H100 and i did apply the thermal past with the pea size blob in the middle of the cpu and then just placing the h100 block ontop of it..i did not spread the thermal paste as i sore on a few videos and comments that it was a bad way of doing it. can anyone help me out with the bios and internet issue i am having. thanks


You did some major hardware change without doing a clean format.

A clean format of Windows is not required but would be a really wise choice to do so.

Even if you fix the problem you have now, I am sure you might have some other problems in the future.

Also which CPU do you have? If you have a 3570k or a 3770k 34 idel is not high and can be considered normal.

Best way to apply thermal paste to CPU is drop some thermal paste as the size of a pea, and than just apply the corsair h100 on it.


----------



## morta

thats exactly how i applyd it! well good to no that i did it right and its normal temp. its a 3570k. i wanted to try and avoide formating the drive but i guess it has to be done. i run windows of my samsung drive and have alot of other stuff on my WDCB drive. i hope i dont have to formate that aswell.. i will try renstalling windows again on my samsung drive and see what happens:thumb:


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> That is too hot to run like that for long. You need to consider better cooling in your case. Do you have any fans? How many? What configuration?
> 
> 
> 
> If you were referring me - here's me at idle - I'm fine on temps
Click to expand...

No. Your temps are fine *Totally Dubbed*. I was refering to *Holy***** with temps in the 90Cs. Sorry for any confusion.


----------



## saura

This is strange .... I've got a pair of SP120s (3 pin performance) and I can control them on the chassis fan headers but not on the cpu / cpu opt header.

Is this because I can only use pwm fans on the cpu fan header ?

Any advice would by warmly welcomed


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> This is strange .... I've got a pair of SP120s (3 pin performance) and I can control them on the chassis fan headers but not on the cpu / cpu opt header.
> 
> Is this because I can only use pwm fans on the cpu fan header ?
> 
> Any advice would by warmly welcomed


I think you are correct. I have only been able to get 4 pin fans to work on the cpu fan headers myself. 3 pin fans run, but can not be controled by them - anyway in my experience that is true.


----------



## morta

after doing a reinstall of windows and iinstalling the asus drivers from the software disc I was able to connect to the internet. But i am still gettin a black screen if i press DEL at post. so i cant get to Bios :S any ideas what could be causing this?


----------



## morta

update. i managed to get to boot into bios but i have to use my other moniter..the bios disply will not show up on my HDTV for some resson. if anyones got any ideas on how to fix this let me no please its a bit of a pain having to swap between screens just to get into bios :S


----------



## grunion

HDMI yeah, that's the nature of the beast.


----------



## Trackzilla

I am testing various versions of windows as my build is destined to exist as a monster one trick pony for work, & after installing Win8 to test it's performance with my application I went to then install win7, to be followed by XP...suddenly, the computer seemed to no longer recognize a boot CD. I could get into BIOS, or boot to Win8, but if a setup CD was in the optical drive I would get a crap video signal for about 10 seconds in between the BIOS splash & the Win8 Splash, without the expected 'wanna boot from this DVD?' text screen.

After quadruple checking everything & cursing rather alot, It finally occurred to me to try 'hitting any key' during the crap video period & Viola! the screen blinked a few times & proceeded to begin installing with video as expected. My guess is maybe in BIOS it retains the higher video resolution that was specified in Windows & was unwilling to reset to the low res startup disc defaults until it was sure that disc was in charge. Anyone else experience similar or have a better explanation?

I'm using the onboard displayport out & a Starcom DP-VGA adapter


----------



## morta

wait ur using the displayport on the motherbord? what if u have a gpu..arnt u sapost to connect the display to the gpu insted??confused:s


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I think you are correct. I have only been able to get 4 pin fans to work on the cpu fan headers myself. 3 pin fans run, but can not be controled by them - anyway in my experience that is true.


Thank you Sir for confirming that.... I'm very


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> Thank you Sir for confirming that.... I'm very


I'm in the same situation. I really want to control my sp120s, on my antec 920 - is there no way of doing this?


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm in the same situation. I really want to control my sp120s, on my antec 920 - is there no way of doing this?


You could shove the sp120s on the chassis headers and get control but it's not an elegant solution, I would much prefer to run them on the cpu/cpu opt headers


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> You could shove the sp120s on the chassis headers and get control but it's not an elegant solution, I would much prefer to run them on the cpu/cpu opt headers


Surely that's a dangerous idea. My sps respond to cpu temperature changes...although thinking of it they are always maxed out at their rpm


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Surely that's a dangerous idea. My sps respond to cpu temperature changes...although thinking of it they are always maxed out at their rpm


The chassis fans also respond to cpu temperature unless you want to add additional dependencies via software like AI suite


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> The chassis fans also respond to cpu temperature unless you want to add additional dependencies via software like AI suite


I uninstalled the AI Suite II lol - absolutely hate it.

Why is it not an "elegant solution" out of interest







?


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Why is it not an "elegant solution" out of interest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Having to waste the 2 cpu fan headers and running the cables all the way round the back of board. In fairness the cpu fan headers should do their job and not be pwm fan only


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> Having to waste the 2 cpu fan headers and running the cables all the way round the back of board. In fairness the cpu fan headers should do their job and not be pwm fan only


ah ha!
Yeah I think I might have a problem fitting them somewhere.
Thing is for me with my antec 920 - I think it won't properly work....I need to ask around (ie create a new thread)


----------



## saura

The 3 pin compatibility issue has got me thinking.....

I want to get the H100i for the sabertooth .... The fans will be fine because they'll be controlled via the link software but the H100i also has a 3pin connector which is used to power and vary the pump speed.

Does this mean that I'll be facing the same problem where the H100i pump will be running full blast whilst connected to the cpu fan header ?

Any H100i owners in here


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> Any H100i owners in here


soon hopefully if i can talk gf into it haha.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saura*
> 
> The 3 pin compatibility issue has got me thinking.....
> 
> I want to get the H100i for the sabertooth .... The fans will be fine because they'll be controlled via the link software but the H100i also has a 3pin connector which is used to power and vary the pump speed.
> 
> Does this mean that I'll be facing the same problem where the H100i pump will be running full blast whilst connected to the cpu fan header ?
> 
> Any H100i owners in here


The pump should & will running at constant speed, i.e. full speed. It designed to work that way.


----------



## Trackzilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> wait ur using the displayport on the motherbord? what if u have a gpu..arnt u sapost to connect the display to the gpu insted??confused:s


This is for a pro-audio workstation. No outboard video card, i5 3570k CPU, VGA monitor...so my options were to convert either the HDMI or the DisplayPort to VGA with an active adapter.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Been thinking about doing another build using the Z77 and giving it to my mom, but I think it might be a little too powerful for her needs.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Been thinking about doing another build using the Z77 and giving it to my mom, but I think it might be a little too powerful for her needs.


nah... I am sure she would like the speed.


----------



## OsiViper

Does anyone else have problems with their pcie being stuck at 8x?

I only have 1 card in the 1st slot and my pcie is running 3.0 but only at 8x speed. And no its not the idle speed because I check it under load and in bios and it only ever shows running pcie 3.0 at 8x.

Is this a bug? Also would I notice much performance increase if it was at 16x or not worth worrying about?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OsiViper*
> 
> Does anyone else have problems with their pcie being stuck at 8x?
> 
> I only have 1 card in the 1st slot and my pcie is running 3.0 but only at 8x speed. And no its not the idle speed because I check it under load and in bios and it only ever shows running pcie 3.0 at 8x.
> 
> Is this a bug? Also would I notice much performance increase if it was at 16x or not worth worrying about?


I have seen in BIOS where we can set each pcie slot to either 16x or 8x, but if you use both slots it will only allow 8x. One card should allow both choices. Look through BIOS again for the pcie settings. If they are not there, then your BIOS might be old or bad and might need to be reloaded as the choice should be there and one card should run at 16x AFAIK.


----------



## MrHamm

hey guys, happy holidays a few questions:

I just booted my computer for the 1st time and it tells me 'cpu fan failure', I have a notcua d14 and both fans are connected to a Bitfenix recon.

1) should I disregard this msg?

2) noticed in bios that my temps show 80c? Isn't that too high? What should normal temps be?

3) I didn't install the two accessorie fans. is it really needed?

CPU: i5 3570k stock OC at this time


----------



## OsiViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> hey guys, happy holidays a few questions:
> I just booted my computer for the 1st time and it tells me 'cpu fan failure', I have a notcua d14 and both fans are connected to a Bitfenix recon.
> 1) should I disregard this msg?
> 2) noticed in bios that my temps show 80c? Isn't that too high? What should normal temps be?
> 3) I didn't install the two accessorie fans. is it really needed?
> CPU: i5 3570k stock OC at this time


The two accessory fans help keep the other components cool but not needed. It is saying cpu fan failure because your cpu fan is plugged into a fan controller instead of board. The temps are a little high I would make sure the cpu fan is running and working that the fan controller is working fine.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OsiViper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrHamm*
> 
> hey guys, happy holidays a few questions:
> I just booted my computer for the 1st time and it tells me 'cpu fan failure', I have a notcua d14 and both fans are connected to a Bitfenix recon.
> 1) should I disregard this msg?
> 2) noticed in bios that my temps show 80c? Isn't that too high? What should normal temps be?
> 3) I didn't install the two accessorie fans. is it really needed?
> CPU: i5 3570k stock OC at this time
> 
> 
> 
> The two accessory fans help keep the other components cool but not needed. It is saying cpu fan failure because your cpu fan is plugged into a fan controller instead of board. The temps are a little high I would make sure the cpu fan is running and working that the fan controller is working fine.
Click to expand...

Everything *OsiViper* said above except for the temps being a little high - they are way too high for when in BIOS. Should be in 20s to 30sC range. Maybe in the 40C range if you live somewhere really hot.

Sounds like your CPU cooling is not working. Also, the fan alrams can be turned off in BIOS in the "Monitoring" section. Maybe get it all working without the fan controller first though, and then add it in and change the BIOS settings.


----------



## SmoshySmosh

I just got my sabertooth z77 all hooked up and updated to bios 1708. I am having issues with waking the computer from sleep (screen not getting signal) and an endless boot loop when turning on the computer at times.

Is anyone else having these issues or should I go ahead and RMA the motherboard?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmoshySmosh*
> 
> I just got my sabertooth z77 all hooked up and updated to bios 1708. I am having issues with waking the computer from sleep (screen not getting signal) and an endless boot loop when turning on the computer at times.
> Is anyone else having these issues or should I go ahead and RMA the motherboard?


try the xmp profile and disable internal pll voltage?


----------



## SmoshySmosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> try the xmp profile and disable internal pll voltage?


Can you direct me to where these options are in the BIOS? I can't seem to find them.

Thank you!


----------



## morta

o ok so in my case beacuse im using an HDtv as my display I have it connected to my 7970?


----------



## SmoshySmosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> try the xmp profile and disable internal pll voltage?


Found the options and set them properly. When I clicked "Save and reset" in the bios it immediately went to an endless reboot loop, did not even post once. I have been doing research on the HX750 and it seems like this PSU could be the issue. Can anyone chime in and verify this?


----------



## grunion

Sounds to me like the board doesn't like your memory.

What kit do you have?


----------



## azsportsfan

Hi folks. In the BIOS, I have the OC set at a mult of 44 (100MHz clock) and a voltage of 1.225v. It saves there just fine if I reboot. The problem is, when I boot into Windows, it gets set to a mult of 42. So, in Prime I am running at 4.2GHz instead of the desired (and BIOS setting of) 4.4GHz (CPU-Z). Although, the voltage is set to the desired value of 1.225v. If I use the ASUS windows OC tool and change it to 44, it sticks through Prime, until I reboot and it once again is back to 42. Any thoughts? What am I missing?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## SmoshySmosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Sounds to me like the board doesn't like your memory.
> What kit do you have?


I thought that as well, so I ran memtest 86 last night and everything was successful. No errors at all. My current ram is Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory (CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10).

I am thinking about popping in to bestbuy tonight and grabbing a PSU just to make sure that my PSU is not bad. Do you have any suggestions as to what kind I should get?


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Hey guys, i got a bit of concern regarding my Sabertooth z77.

*LONG STORY:*
My system wont boot up after going to BIOS. What happen is. I try to OC my system to 4.5ghz, what i did is, i set the frequency to 100, all cores to 45, Phase Control to Exteme, CPU Current Capability to 140%, then everything is in auto. It boot up, i manage to hit 4.5ghz and it says that it is stable using intel burn test on my first run, but decided to lower it down because im hitting 90c on full load. So i did run the auto tuner so i can verify upto what certain point i can OC my system. It run at 4.2ghz but only 1.3mhz on RAM, it is on 103.0 CPU frequency and 42 on cores. Its a bit slow compared to my stock RAM speed w/c 1600mhz. So i set the RAM frequency (MANUAL) to 1600mhz+, i forgot the exact value but it is more than 1600mhz (coz i dont see 1600mhz on choices so i chose the closest value), then i set its voltage to 1.30. It boot up, so i did run intel burn test. I got this UNSTABLE error on the 4th stage. I reboot my system so i can go back to BIOS but my system wont boot up. LED lights for RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i use MEM Ok button of the board and the system boot up on black screen where is says i need to press F1 for SET UP. So i did and im now on BIOS. I lower down RAM voltage to 1.2500 and restart. The same issue occur, LED lights of RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i turn off the computer, re seat the MEMORY and power it on. It does boot up but got stuck on Windows logo. I reboot it again to BIOS and set everything to default (hit F5), reset and everything is working perfectly. It boot up to windows, no issue, rerun IBT, check the temp, check CPUID, evrything is in stock and working perfectly.. I reboot again the system just to verify that it is working perfectly and it does. So i decided to give it another try, i reboot again to Bios, Set the CPU frequency to 100, set the cores to 42 so i can get 4.2ghz on CPU and 1600mhz for RAM with 1.25v., Control Phase to Extreme, CPU Current Capability to 140%. press f10, save and reset.. And the same issue occur but this time, only the RAM LED are blinking, i press the MEM OK button and it boot up on black screen again and it says MEM OK is successful, i continue to BIOS then reset the system without doing anything and then,,, nothing happens it wont boot up, i hard reset my computer and still it wont boot up, fans are working but no display on my screen.. I observe the LED lights on the board and everything lights up once except LED of BIOS.. I think that the BIOS might be corrupted so i flash it using a flash drive with the latest bios put it at the back of the board and press BiOS flash button. It does boot up but then again with this RAM LED Issue. I then again press the MEM OK button, go to BIOS set up, set everything to default and once again, my system is working perfectly...

*SHORT STORY:*
after trial and error OC'ng my system, it wont boot up except on stock/default configuration on BIOS. everytime i try to configure it to OC, it wont boot up. It happen when i configure my RAM to 1600mhz+ with 1.3v. my previous attemps was OK (booting up) except for it is not stable. But after my last attempt, the system wont totally boot up if configured to OC.

I haven't tried resetting my board or removing the battery coz i think it wont help but ill give it a try. Any of you guys had the same experience?any advice will be much appreciated! thanks!

My System:
Proce: i5 3570k
Cooler: Thermal Take 2.0 extreme (push pull set up)
mobo: asus sabertooth z77
PSU: seasonic x series 760w 80+ gold full modular
RAM: 8gb G.skill Sniper 1.25v 1600mhz 4GBx2
Graphics : xfx 7970 DD Black (still waiting to arrive)
Case: Aerocool strike x st (full tower)


----------



## bored32

just bought this mobo as a christmas gift to myself. Are there any updates i need to apply to it right away?


----------



## azsportsfan

Definitely grab the latest BIOS (1708). Has stability fixes as well as memory compatibility updates.


----------



## SmoshySmosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Hey guys, i got a bit of concern regarding my Sabertooth z77.
> *LONG STORY:*
> My system wont boot up after going to BIOS. What happen is. I try to OC my system to 4.5ghz, what i did is, i set the frequency to 100, all cores to 45, Phase Control to Exteme, CPU Current Capability to 140%, then everything is in auto. It boot up, i manage to hit 4.5ghz and it says that it is stable using intel burn test on my first run, but decided to lower it down because im hitting 90c on full load. So i did run the auto tuner so i can verify upto what certain point i can OC my system. It run at 4.2ghz but only 1.3mhz on RAM, it is on 103.0 CPU frequency and 42 on cores. Its a bit slow compared to my stock RAM speed w/c 1600mhz. So i set the RAM frequency (MANUAL) to 1600mhz+, i forgot the exact value but it is more than 1600mhz (coz i dont see 1600mhz on choices so i chose the closest value), then i set its voltage to 1.30. It boot up, so i did run intel burn test. I got this UNSTABLE error on the 4th stage. I reboot my system so i can go back to BIOS but my system wont boot up. LED lights for RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i use MEM Ok button of the board and the system boot up on black screen where is says i need to press F1 for SET UP. So i did and im now on BIOS. I lower down RAM voltage to 1.2500 and restart. The same issue occur, LED lights of RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i turn off the computer, re seat the MEMORY and power it on. It does boot up but got stuck on Windows logo. I reboot it again to BIOS and set everything to default (hit F5), reset and everything is working perfectly. It boot up to windows, no issue, rerun IBT, check the temp, check CPUID, evrything is in stock and working perfectly.. I reboot again the system just to verify that it is working perfectly and it does. So i decided to give it another try, i reboot again to Bios, Set the CPU frequency to 100, set the cores to 42 so i can get 4.2ghz on CPU and 1600mhz for RAM with 1.25v., Control Phase to Extreme, CPU Current Capability to 140%. press f10, save and reset.. And the same issue occur but this time, only the RAM LED are blinking, i press the MEM OK button and it boot up on black screen again and it says MEM OK is successful, i continue to BIOS then reset the system without doing anything and then,,, nothing happens it wont boot up, i hard reset my computer and still it wont boot up, fans are working but no display on my screen.. I observe the LED lights on the board and everything lights up once except LED of BIOS.. I think that the BIOS might be corrupted so i flash it using a flash drive with the latest bios put it at the back of the board and press BiOS flash button. It does boot up but then again with this RAM LED Issue. I then again press the MEM OK button, go to BIOS set up, set everything to default and once again, my system is working perfectly...
> *SHORT STORY:*
> after trial and error OC'ng my system, it wont boot up except on stock/default configuration on BIOS. everytime i try to configure it to OC, it wont boot up. It happen when i configure my RAM to 1600mhz+ with 1.3v. my previous attemps was OK (booting up) except for it is not stable. But after my last attempt, the system wont totally boot up if configured to OC.
> I haven't tried resetting my board or removing the battery coz i think it wont help but ill give it a try. Any of you guys had the same experience?any advice will be much appreciated! thanks!
> My System:
> Proce: i5 3570k
> Cooler: Thermal Take 2.0 extreme (push pull set up)
> mobo: asus sabertooth z77
> PSU: seasonic x series 760w 80+ gold full modular
> RAM: 8gb G.skill Sniper 1.25v 1600mhz 4GBx2
> Graphics : xfx 7970 DD Black (still waiting to arrive)
> Case: Aerocool strike x st (full tower)


When you say it will not boot. Does the machine POST? Or is it stuck on a constant reboot loop?


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmoshySmosh*
> 
> When you say it will not boot. Does the machine POST? Or is it stuck on a constant reboot loop?


It does not post anything on my screen. Im using 32" LED TV and it says "NO SIGNAL" so i think its not booting up..


----------



## SmoshySmosh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> It does not post anything on my screen. Im using 32" LED TV and it says "NO SIGNAL" so i think its not booting up..


When you can boot into windows, are you able to put it to sleep and wake it up with no issues? I think I may be having the same issue as you if this is the case. I am thinking that it's my power supply as I can boot passed BIOS sometimes and other times I can not, without changing a single thing.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmoshySmosh*
> 
> When you can boot into windows, are you able to put it to sleep and wake it up with no issues? I think I may be having the same issue as you if this is the case. I am thinking that it's my power supply as I can boot passed BIOS sometimes and other times I can not, without changing a single thing.


Sorry but i never put my computer on sleep, ill shut it down if im not using it.
My problem is when i try to Over clock my system, after saving my configuration and reset, my system will turn off shortly and will fire up again (fans, lights, cooler running) but it don't post anything on my tv screen.. "NO SIGNAL"

other thing is, if you will observe LED lights on your board, if you will power on your computer, evrything will light up shortly, mine does too except for BIOS LED.
That is why i think my BIOS got corrupted so i reflash it...

Now im on full stock and my computer is working perfectly, but i don't want to be stuck on stock/default configuration while im having a mobo and processor capable of OC'ng..


----------



## LuckyNumber13

quick question does anyone know of any
replacement waterblocks for the z77 chipset
heatsink.?


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azsportsfan*
> 
> Definitely grab the latest BIOS (1708). Has stability fixes as well as memory compatibility updates.


I thought I read some pages back that people were having instability with this Version?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmoshySmosh*
> 
> I just got my sabertooth z77 all hooked up and updated to bios 1708. I am having issues with waking the computer from sleep (screen not getting signal) and an endless boot loop when turning on the computer at times.
> 
> Is anyone else having these issues or should I go ahead and RMA the motherboard?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> try the xmp profile and disable internal pll voltage?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SmoshySmosh*
> 
> Found the options and set them properly. When I clicked "Save and reset" in the bios it immediately went to an endless reboot loop, did not even post once. I have been doing research on the HX750 and it seems like this PSU could be the issue. Can anyone chime in and verify this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Based on the issue, I don't think the PSU is the problem. Do you have any other hardware connected to your computer beside monitor, keyboard & mouse? Try disconnect everything else, except monitor, keyboard & mouse.

For the endless boot loop, try the same thing. You might want to use only one stick of RAM to troubleshoot this. You also can try removed the GPU & use the Intel HD Graphics instead. Disconnect the HDD(s) too. Monitor the debug code on the motherboard when endless boot loop happen & wrote it down, including if any LEDs on the motherboard stay on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Hey guys, i got a bit of concern regarding my Sabertooth z77.
> 
> *LONG STORY:*
> My system wont boot up after going to BIOS. What happen is. I try to OC my system to 4.5ghz, what i did is, i set the frequency to 100, all cores to 45, Phase Control to Exteme, CPU Current Capability to 140%, then everything is in auto. It boot up, i manage to hit 4.5ghz and it says that it is stable using intel burn test on my first run, but decided to lower it down because im hitting 90c on full load. So i did run the auto tuner so i can verify upto what certain point i can OC my system. It run at 4.2ghz but only 1.3mhz on RAM, it is on 103.0 CPU frequency and 42 on cores. Its a bit slow compared to my stock RAM speed w/c 1600mhz. So i set the RAM frequency (MANUAL) to 1600mhz+, i forgot the exact value but it is more than 1600mhz (coz i dont see 1600mhz on choices so i chose the closest value), then i set its voltage to 1.30. It boot up, so i did run intel burn test. I got this UNSTABLE error on the 4th stage. I reboot my system so i can go back to BIOS but my system wont boot up. LED lights for RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i use MEM Ok button of the board and the system boot up on black screen where is says i need to press F1 for SET UP. So i did and im now on BIOS. I lower down RAM voltage to 1.2500 and restart. The same issue occur, LED lights of RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i turn off the computer, re seat the MEMORY and power it on. It does boot up but got stuck on Windows logo. I reboot it again to BIOS and set everything to default (hit F5), reset and everything is working perfectly. It boot up to windows, no issue, rerun IBT, check the temp, check CPUID, evrything is in stock and working perfectly.. I reboot again the system just to verify that it is working perfectly and it does. So i decided to give it another try, i reboot again to Bios, Set the CPU frequency to 100, set the cores to 42 so i can get 4.2ghz on CPU and 1600mhz for RAM with 1.25v., Control Phase to Extreme, CPU Current Capability to 140%. press f10, save and reset.. And the same issue occur but this time, only the RAM LED are blinking, i press the MEM OK button and it boot up on black screen again and it says MEM OK is successful, i continue to BIOS then reset the system without doing anything and then,,, nothing happens it wont boot up, i hard reset my computer and still it wont boot up, fans are working but no display on my screen.. I observe the LED lights on the board and everything lights up once except LED of BIOS.. I think that the BIOS might be corrupted so i flash it using a flash drive with the latest bios put it at the back of the board and press BiOS flash button. It does boot up but then again with this RAM LED Issue. I then again press the MEM OK button, go to BIOS set up, set everything to default and once again, my system is working perfectly...
> 
> *SHORT STORY:*
> after trial and error OC'ng my system, it wont boot up except on stock/default configuration on BIOS. everytime i try to configure it to OC, it wont boot up. It happen when i configure my RAM to 1600mhz+ with 1.3v. my previous attemps was OK (booting up) except for it is not stable. But after my last attempt, the system wont totally boot up if configured to OC.
> 
> I haven't tried resetting my board or removing the battery coz i think it wont help but ill give it a try. Any of you guys had the same experience?any advice will be much appreciated! thanks!
> 
> My System:
> Proce: i5 3570k
> Cooler: Thermal Take 2.0 extreme (push pull set up)
> mobo: asus sabertooth z77
> PSU: seasonic x series 760w 80+ gold full modular
> RAM: 8gb G.skill Sniper 1.25v 1600mhz 4GBx2
> Graphics : xfx 7970 DD Black (still waiting to arrive)
> Case: Aerocool strike x st (full tower)


First of all, *flashing BIOS when your computer in this condition is a bad idea*. It can only make things worst. The only time the possibility the BIOS can corrupt is when flashing BIOS. Even that rarely happen. Changing setting in BIOS will not corrupt the BIOS. Don't ever do this again.

I believe what happen is because the RAM voltage is too low causing instability or in your case failed to boot (or endless boot loop). Increase the RAM voltage, not lower it.


----------



## Edb007th

ok, as per my earlier h100 issue....

Broke it down, did an immaculate removal of all existing thermal paste, and re-applied and replaced h100. bios temps still at 82c. took that off, cleaned it up, then put on stock i5-3570k heatsink, and it worked fine. temps at 36c. so, time to RMA but to whom... corsair or newegg? i am an RMA virgin... heh....

+1 reps for the fellas that helped me BTW..... slainte!


----------



## Samurai707

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edb007th*
> 
> ok, as per my earlier h100 issue....
> Broke it down, did an immaculate removal of all existing thermal paste, and re-applied and replaced h100. bios temps still at 82c. took that off, cleaned it up, then put on stock i5-3570k heatsink, and it worked fine. temps at 36c. so, time to RMA but to whom... corsair or newegg? i am an RMA virgin... heh....
> +1 reps for the fellas that helped me BTW..... slainte!


Newegg if it's available to be returned, Corsair if it's out of that window imo. Sorry to hear that happened to ya : \


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> First of all, *flashing BIOS when your computer in this condition is a bad idea*. It can only make things worst. The only time the possibility the BIOS can corrupt is when flashing BIOS. Even that rarely happen. Changing setting in BIOS will not corrupt the BIOS. Don't ever do this again.
> I believe what happen is because the RAM voltage is too low causing instability or in your case failed to boot (or endless boot loop). Increase the RAM voltage, not lower it.


Thank you very much for the advice, i never thought that flashing Bios by safest way i know on that certain condition could damage my system. Yeah i think you are right about the RAM issue and i think that is the culprit. Im using G.skills Sniper 1600mhz classified as 1.25v. So i think lowering it down to stock will solve the issue but i guess it is not the solution. Coz before i lower it down, it is currently using 1.35v and that is the Auto Tune setup. Ill give it a try once i get back home.

+1 rep added. Thanks again


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Thank you very much for the advice, i never thought that flashing Bios by safest way i know on that certain condition could damage my system.


There is a possibility it can happen but very small chances. When doing it while your computer "not stable", the chances you get bad flash will be higher though even with the safest method. Anyway I'm stressing this because no way BIOS become corrupt because of changing settings in BIOS. So, flashing BIOS should not in your troubleshooting list.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Yeah i think you are right about the RAM issue and i think that is the culprit. Im using G.skills Sniper 1600mhz classified as 1.25v. So i think lowering it down to stock will solve the issue but i guess it is not the solution. Coz before i lower it down, it is currently using 1.35v and that is the Auto Tune setup. Ill give it a try once i get back home.
> 
> +1 rep added. Thanks again


It either increasing the voltage or need to setting the timings manually or both. For correct timings you might want to ask Gskill or anyone that have experience with it. Definitely need higher voltage especially when overclock.

I know the CMOS battery is under the armor. Instead do the hard way, removing the armor, you can reset CMOS using the jumper or the Clear CMOS button at the back I/O of the motherboard.
Source: http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&s=39&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ&os=&no=1723

After clearing CMOS, you should be able to boot with default settings.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> you can reset CMOS using the jumper or the Clear CMOS button at the back I/O of the motherboard.
> Source: http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&s=39&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ&os=&no=1723
> After clearing CMOS, you should be able to boot with default settings.


Thank you for the link and advice. btw, does the Clear CMOS Button that you're saying is the same as the Bios Flash back button that i have used?
Will it reset back to my stock bios or just the default settings? So to reset back to stock settings ill just have to press it without flash drive in?

i think sabertooth got the jumper but not the clear cmos button.. Just want to clarify tho..


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azsportsfan*
> 
> Hi folks. In the BIOS, I have the OC set at a mult of 44 (100MHz clock) and a voltage of 1.225v. It saves there just fine if I reboot. The problem is, when I boot into Windows, it gets set to a mult of 42. So, in Prime I am running at 4.2GHz instead of the desired (and BIOS setting of) 4.4GHz (CPU-Z). Although, the voltage is set to the desired value of 1.225v. If I use the ASUS windows OC tool and change it to 44, it sticks through Prime, until I reboot and it once again is back to 42. Any thoughts? What am I missing?
> Thanks in advance...


I had this problem and it's a strange one but here's the fix that worked for me.....

1 - Ensure that the multi is set via the turbo setting not via per core

2 - Power down the machine and do a clr_cmos (dip switches on the motherboard)

That's it. Power up and you'll be able to switch between OC profiles.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Thank you for the link and advice. btw, does the Clear CMOS Button that you're saying is the same as the Bios Flash back button that i have used?
> Will it reset back to my stock bios or just the default settings? So to reset back to stock settings ill just have to press it without flash drive in?
> 
> i think sabertooth got the jumper but not the clear cmos button.. Just want to clarify tho..


Not the BIOS flashback button. My mistake, you're correct, no clear cmos button at the back I/O of the motherboard. You can use the jumper then. I believe it is the one labelled as CLRTC.



Original link:-
http://rog.asus.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/sabertooth-z77-13.jpg


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Hey guys, i got a bit of concern regarding my Sabertooth z77.
> *LONG STORY:*
> My system wont boot up after going to BIOS. What happen is. I try to OC my system to 4.5ghz, what i did is, i set the frequency to 100, all cores to 45, Phase Control to Exteme, CPU Current Capability to 140%, then everything is in auto. It boot up, i manage to hit 4.5ghz and it says that it is stable using intel burn test on my first run, but decided to lower it down because im hitting 90c on full load. So i did run the auto tuner so i can verify upto what certain point i can OC my system. It run at 4.2ghz but only 1.3mhz on RAM, it is on 103.0 CPU frequency and 42 on cores. Its a bit slow compared to my stock RAM speed w/c 1600mhz. So i set the RAM frequency (MANUAL) to 1600mhz+, i forgot the exact value but it is more than 1600mhz (coz i dont see 1600mhz on choices so i chose the closest value), then i set its voltage to 1.30. It boot up, so i did run intel burn test. I got this UNSTABLE error on the 4th stage. I reboot my system so i can go back to BIOS but my system wont boot up. LED lights for RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i use MEM Ok button of the board and the system boot up on black screen where is says i need to press F1 for SET UP. So i did and im now on BIOS. I lower down RAM voltage to 1.2500 and restart. The same issue occur, LED lights of RAM and CPU are just blinking repeatedly. So i turn off the computer, re seat the MEMORY and power it on. It does boot up but got stuck on Windows logo. I reboot it again to BIOS and set everything to default (hit F5), reset and everything is working perfectly. It boot up to windows, no issue, rerun IBT, check the temp, check CPUID, evrything is in stock and working perfectly.. I reboot again the system just to verify that it is working perfectly and it does. So i decided to give it another try, i reboot again to Bios, Set the CPU frequency to 100, set the cores to 42 so i can get 4.2ghz on CPU and 1600mhz for RAM with 1.25v., Control Phase to Extreme, CPU Current Capability to 140%. press f10, save and reset.. And the same issue occur but this time, only the RAM LED are blinking, i press the MEM OK button and it boot up on black screen again and it says MEM OK is successful, i continue to BIOS then reset the system without doing anything and then,,, nothing happens it wont boot up, i hard reset my computer and still it wont boot up, fans are working but no display on my screen.. I observe the LED lights on the board and everything lights up once except LED of BIOS.. I think that the BIOS might be corrupted so i flash it using a flash drive with the latest bios put it at the back of the board and press BiOS flash button. It does boot up but then again with this RAM LED Issue. I then again press the MEM OK button, go to BIOS set up, set everything to default and once again, my system is working perfectly...
> *SHORT STORY:*
> after trial and error OC'ng my system, it wont boot up except on stock/default configuration on BIOS. everytime i try to configure it to OC, it wont boot up. It happen when i configure my RAM to 1600mhz+ with 1.3v. my previous attemps was OK (booting up) except for it is not stable. But after my last attempt, the system wont totally boot up if configured to OC.
> I haven't tried resetting my board or removing the battery coz i think it wont help but ill give it a try. Any of you guys had the same experience?any advice will be much appreciated! thanks!
> My System:
> Proce: i5 3570k
> Cooler: Thermal Take 2.0 extreme (push pull set up)
> mobo: asus sabertooth z77
> PSU: seasonic x series 760w 80+ gold full modular
> RAM: 8gb G.skill Sniper 1.25v 1600mhz 4GBx2
> Graphics : xfx 7970 DD Black (still waiting to arrive)
> Case: Aerocool strike x st (full tower)






I think it has to do with the cable you are using as the display - oddly enough, have you tried different cables to connect it up to you TV? This is a wild guess, but there is no reason for your PC to show "no signal" when all you've changed is the CPU ratio.
Have you got iGPU enabled/disabled?
Have you also updated all drivers and BIOS?

Also out of interest what OS are you running?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bored32*
> 
> just bought this mobo as a christmas gift to myself. Are there any updates i need to apply to it right away?


1708 BIOS is recommended
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azsportsfan*
> 
> Definitely grab the latest BIOS (1708). Has stability fixes as well as memory compatibility updates.


Agreed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Based on the issue, I don't think the PSU is the problem. Do you have any other hardware connected to your computer beside monitor, keyboard & mouse? Try disconnect everything else, except monitor, keyboard & mouse.
> For the endless boot loop, try the same thing. You might want to use only one stick of RAM to troubleshoot this. You also can try removed the GPU & use the Intel HD Graphics instead. Disconnect the HDD(s) too. Monitor the debug code on the motherboard when endless boot loop happen & wrote it down, including if any LEDs on the motherboard stay on.
> First of all, *flashing BIOS when your computer in this condition is a bad idea*. It can only make things worst. The only time the possibility the BIOS can corrupt is when flashing BIOS. Even that rarely happen. Changing setting in BIOS will not corrupt the BIOS. Don't ever do this again.
> I believe what happen is because the RAM voltage is too low causing instability or in your case failed to boot (or endless boot loop). Increase the RAM voltage, not lower it.


I'm not sure I fully agree.
What if he has a corrupt BIOS - factory corrupt (things like that do happen) - meaning any OC he is trying to do screws the system up, and thus can't cope with any sort of OC?

If he were to flash the latest BIOS, even re-flashing it (I would even say - force flashing it) then I would deem that as the best way to eliminate "BIOS is faulty" type problems.

Thus:
-Got to stock
-Ensure it is stable
-Force flash (via USB) the BIOS -> latest 1708 one
-See results


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm not sure I fully agree.
> What if he has a corrupt BIOS - factory corrupt (things like that do happen) - meaning any OC he is trying to do screws the system up, and thus can't cope with any sort of OC?
> 
> If he were to flash the latest BIOS, even re-flashing it (I would even say - force flashing it) then I would deem that as the best way to eliminate "BIOS is faulty" type problems.
> 
> Thus:
> -Got to stock
> -Ensure it is stable
> -Force flash (via USB) the BIOS -> latest 1708 one
> -See results


I agree *Dubbed* and think this would be a good idea too. Set to stock. Clear CMOS with onboard jumper. Force flash 1708. Check results.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I agree *Dubbed* and think this would be a good idea too. Set to stock. Clear CMOS with onboard jumper. Force flash 1708. Check results.


Cheers for confirming.
That's my logical and educational guess.


----------



## kellygtp

Well I just got mine this xmas









Having an issue now with ram only 8gb of my 16 showing up...I have 2 sets of 1866 G.skill ripjaw x's ( 8gb 2x4gb)

well both sets show up in the tool section section SPD information

tested each stick in slot a1 and all show up and test fine, tested each set in slots a2 b2 and they both show up 8gb and test fine with memtest
when all 4 are in.....it only shows 8gb not the full 16

im stumpped....any thoughts?


----------



## greg1184

I am amazed at how easily the motherboard's USB 3.0 pins bend. Of course they bent, and they are in a hard to reach location that makes fixing it difficult without taking my rig apart.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> Well I just got mine this xmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having an issue now with ram only 8gb of my 16 showing up...I have 2 sets of 1866 G.skill ripjaw x's ( 8gb 2x4gb)
> well both sets show up in the tool section section SPD information
> tested each stick in slot a1 and all show up and test fine, tested each set in slots a2 b2 and they both show up 8gb and test fine with memtest
> when all 4 are in.....it only shows 8gb not the full 16
> im stumpped....any thoughts?


BIOS version?
And where are they showing up?
BIOS or CPU-Z type programs?
If via programs -> What version of Windows?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm not sure I fully agree.
> What if he has a corrupt BIOS - factory corrupt (things like that do happen) - meaning any OC he is trying to do screws the system up, and thus can't cope with any sort of OC?
> 
> If he were to flash the latest BIOS, even re-flashing it (I would even say - force flashing it) then I would deem that as the best way to eliminate "BIOS is faulty" type problems.
> 
> Thus:
> -Got to stock
> -Ensure it is stable
> -Force flash (via USB) the BIOS -> latest 1708 one
> -See results


Actually you're agreeing with me. Let me explain why. SpEaKeRb0xXx doesn't reset CMOS prior flashing latest BIOS. It is bad idea, even more bad idea if the BIOS does actually "factory" corrupt. Also if it corrupt, we don't know how bad it is & if it also effect the update program, it might cause bad flash. This is why I said it is bad idea. If SpEaKeRb0xXx does reset CMOS prior flashing BIOS then the "procedure" is correct or proper IMO hence reducing the risk of bad flash. Furthermore without resetting CMOS, the remnant from previous BIOS settings can cause false-positive, making user into thinking it is indeed the BIOS is corrupt even though it actually not. (The last line show I'm agreeing with you on clear CMOS before flashing BIOS.)

The other reason why it is bad idea, especially for this case, when SpEaKeRb0xXx got RAM error, SpEaKeRb0xXx reduced the RAM voltage instead of increasing it. The right course of action is to "fixed" the settings by increasing the voltage. Flashing BIOS should be the last thing you can try when troubleshooting.

It is good idea to exercise caution when flashing BIOS. The flashback button doesn't guarantee you can bring back bricked motherboard. There's already few cases it unable to recover corrupted BIOS. When this happen the only way to recover is by programming the BIOS chip using hardware programming tool or buy replacement chip (with BIOS pre-flashed).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Actually you're agreeing with me. Let me explain why. SpEaKeRb0xXx doesn't reset CMOS prior flashing latest BIOS. It is bad idea, even more bad idea if the BIOS does actually "factory" corrupt. Also if it corrupt, we don't know how bad it is & if it also effect the update program, it might cause bad flash. This is why I said it is bad idea. If SpEaKeRb0xXx does reset CMOS prior flashing BIOS then the "procedure" is correct or proper IMO hence reducing the risk of bad flash. Furthermore without resetting CMOS, the remnant from previous BIOS settings can cause false-positive, making user into thinking it is indeed the BIOS is corrupt even though it actually not. (The last line show I'm agreeing with you on clear CMOS before flashing BIOS.)
> The other reason why it is bad idea, especially for this case, when SpEaKeRb0xXx got RAM error, SpEaKeRb0xXx reduced the RAM voltage instead of increasing it. The right course of action is to "fixed" the settings by increasing the voltage. Flashing BIOS should be the last thing you can try when troubleshooting.
> It is good idea to exercise caution when flashing BIOS. The flashback button doesn't guarantee you can bring back bricked motherboard. There's already few cases it unable to recover corrupted BIOS. When this happen the only way to recover is by programming the BIOS chip using hardware programming tool or buy replacement chip (with BIOS pre-flashed).


Clear CMOS - before flashing BIOS?
I've never ever done that unless I have had some serious motherboard faults, and my last option was to reset the CMOS.
I can see where you are coming from though









Of course flashing the BIOS should be an operation done carefully - but nowadays, it is kind of impossible to "brick" a motherboard,e specially when you got a means of flashing a BIOS via a USB key.
Long story short:
Flashing the latest bios, and flashing it via USB, should be his first course of action, before trying to OC.

In my case, before starting to OC, I should have tested the stability of STOCK - I didn't and thus "lost" 1 month worth of trial and error around my OC, when I found out that in fact it was a physically bad DIMM that was making my OC fail.

What I'm trying to say is this:
Let him eliminate any hardware problems, and software problems, at stock, before contemplating his OC.
If indeed he finds there is still problems, then he can RMA/return a component.

OC'ing 101 - 2 golden things I've learnt: (I'm not directing this at you or anyone):
-Determine your system is fully stable at stock
-The higher OC you go, the higher voltage you should add - this applies to RAM and CPU, and heck even GPU.


----------



## kellygtp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> BIOS version?
> And where are they showing up?
> BIOS or CPU-Z type programs?
> If via programs -> What version of Windows?


Win 7 x64 ultimate
They are showing in the BIOS meaning it sees all 4 just states 8gb and not 16
BIOS is the October release I flashed back from the Nov release thinking it was the issue possibly....I had all 16gb showing yesterday but not today

Tried each set a1 b1 and a2 b2 both show 8gb of ram...just when both are installed its saying 8gb but in tools under the BIOS in the spd information section its saying each dimm is registering each memory stick...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> Win 7 x64 ultimate
> They are showing in the BIOS meaning it sees all 4 just states 8gb and not 16
> BIOS is the October release I flashed back from the Nov release thinking it was the issue possibly....I had all 16gb showing yesterday but not today
> Tried each set a1 b1 and a2 b2 both show 8gb of ram...just when both are installed its saying 8gb but in tools under the BIOS in the spd information section its saying each dimm is registering each memory stick...


So yesterday 16GB was showing - and today it isn't?
And you haven't changed anything?

That's odd indeed.
What about in windows then? What's it showing?

I'm thinking something is up with the BIOS?


----------



## kellygtp

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> So yesterday 16GB was showing - and today it isn't?
> And you haven't changed anything?
> That's odd indeed.
> What about in windows then? What's it showing?
> I'm thinking something is up with the BIOS?


In windows it said 8gb too

Not much has changed I disabled some CPU c1e speedstep stuff...and set the ram timings 9-10-9-28 but that was yesterday haven't touched it since then and it said 16gb yesterday in BIOS and windows.

Hmmm I wonder if I hit that memok button plugging in the fan header...would that cause some issue? That's all I can think of


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> .
> In windows it said 8gb too
> Not much has changed I disabled some CPU c1e speedstep stuff...and set the ram timings 9-10-9-28 but that was yesterday haven't touched it since then and it said 16gb yesterday in BIOS and windows.
> Hmmm I wonder if I hit that memok button plugging in the fan header...would that cause some issue? That's all I can think of


Try the memOK button - I don't really know why it isn't doing it.
Could be related to timings?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> I agree *Dubbed* and think this would be a good idea too. Set to stock. Clear CMOS with onboard jumper. Force flash 1708. Check results.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for confirming.
> That's my logical and educational guess.
Click to expand...

Well, I do hope that helps him with that agrivating issue....


----------



## kellygtp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try the memOK button - I don't really know why it isn't doing it.
> Could be related to timings?


ok here is what i see in windows with optimized defaults loaded in the bios nov release 1708 ( this is before touching anything including the memOK button)



let me get a bios screenshot here too one sec....


----------



## HAF922

i had no answer to this question so I am asking for your help.
this board supports DDR3 1866 memory. my co worker does not plan to over clock his new 3770k. will 1866 work or should he get 1600?
thanks in advance.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> ok here is what i see in windows with optimized defaults loaded in the bios nov release 1708 ( this is before touching anything including the memOK button)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> let me get a bios screenshot here too one sec....


This doesn't honestly look good - maybe it is the board refusing to accept the RAM?
I'm no pro - but do one last thing.

Hit up memtest 86+ on a USB stick, and see if THAT picks up 16GB (as I know you said you tested via memtest already, but was that only 1 stick or both?) - if it doesn't....then it could well be a faulty board, or incompatibility or IMC (processor)
-> that's if you've done all the things on your side, with BIOS, software, drivers etc updates.

I know you said, but have you tried running them in A1 and B1 slots only?
In other words, have you tried every single RAM combination imaginable?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAF922*
> 
> i had no answer to this question so I am asking for your help.
> this board supports DDR3 1866 memory. my co worker does not plan to over clock his new 3770k. will 1866 work or should he get 1600?
> thanks in advance.


I would highly suggest looking at the QVL (compatibility list) and going form there.
I honestly don't think you'll notice a realistic performance increase between 1600 and 2100, let alone 1866.
If the price difference isn't much however, then go for the 1866 one - also aim for CL9 or BELOW (with 9-9-9 timings for example)


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai707*
> 
> I thought I read some pages back that people were having instability with this Version?


Personally I went ahead and tried and sure enough I kept getting blue screens from the v core overclock. Since I have experience with overclocking I did all the necessary things before doing a bios flash back to 1616.

Anyways I had more stability issues for me with this Bios 1708 ROM that I had to go back and, I have been fine on 1616. Like they usually say if it isn't really necessary to upgrade your bios unless you really need to; don't do it. Most of the Bios from Asus have been better than the previous IMO with the exception of 1708.

Anyways maybe some printed boards or components could act different according to its revision and Bios but I am good on 1616 and staying there.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> Well I just got mine this xmas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having an issue now with ram only 8gb of my 16 showing up...I have 2 sets of 1866 G.skill ripjaw x's ( 8gb 2x4gb)
> well both sets show up in the tool section section SPD information
> tested each stick in slot a1 and all show up and test fine, tested each set in slots a2 b2 and they both show up 8gb and test fine with memtest
> when all 4 are in.....it only shows 8gb not the full 16
> im stumpped....any thoughts?


What are you using for a heatsink?
Sometimes over torquing the cooler can do strange things with the memory.
Make sure that there is no limit imposed on memory amount in msconfig.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HAF922*
> 
> i had no answer to this question so I am asking for your help.
> this board supports DDR3 1866 memory. my co worker does not plan to over clock his new 3770k. will 1866 work or should he get 1600?
> thanks in advance.


With a question of certainty I suggest to check the downloads section on ASUS website. It will give you every make and model of Ram that is compatible at such speeds you desire.

http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/

Open the qualified vendors list and read which ram will work with this board in the downloads section.


----------



## kellygtp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> This doesn't honestly look good - maybe it is the board refusing to accept the RAM?
> I'm no pro - but do one last thing.
> Hit up memtest 86+ on a USB stick, and see if THAT picks up 16GB (as I know you said you tested via memtest already, but was that only 1 stick or both?) - if it doesn't....then it could well be a faulty board, or incompatibility or IMC (processor)
> -> that's if you've done all the things on your side, with BIOS, software, drivers etc updates.
> I know you said, but have you tried running them in A1 and B1 slots only?
> In other words, have you tried every single RAM combination imaginable?
> I would highly suggest looking at the QVL (compatibility list) and going form there.
> I honestly don't think you'll notice a realistic performance increase between 1600 and 2100, let alone 1866.
> If the price difference isn't much however, then go for the 1866 one - also aim for CL9 or BELOW (with 9-9-9 timings for example)


yeah i have tried each set in each slot config ( a1 b1 and a2 b2) this is racking my brain here lol

I just went in and manually set the memory speed to 1866 and it doesnt boot.....red light above memok button turns on, so i pres it in until it flashes then goes off.

Just looked to take this back to MC and they are out of stock here in KC, fantastic...


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> yeah i have tried each set in each slot config ( a1 b1 and a2 b2) this is racking my brain here lol
> I just went in and manually set the memory speed to 1866 and it doesnt boot.....red light above memok button turns on, so i pres it in until it flashes then goes off.
> Just looked to take this back to MC and they are out of stock here in KC, fantastic...


hey kellygtp, downgrade your motherboard bios to 1502. I hear that the 1708 bios causes a lot of issues, I had someone on here like 1 or 2 months ago that had problems with the 1708 bios. I told him just downgrade to the 1502 bios. and everything went well for him. downgrade to the 1502 bios and report back







.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I think it has to do with the cable you are using as the display - oddly enough, have you tried different cables to connect it up to you TV? This is a wild guess, but there is no reason for your PC to show "no signal" when all you've changed is the CPU ratio.
> Have you got iGPU enabled/disabled?
> Have you also updated all drivers and BIOS?
> Also out of interest what OS are you running?
> 1708 BIOS is recommended
> Agreed
> I'm not sure I fully agree.
> What if he has a corrupt BIOS - factory corrupt (things like that do happen) - meaning any OC he is trying to do screws the system up, and thus can't cope with any sort of OC?
> If he were to flash the latest BIOS, even re-flashing it (I would even say - force flashing it) then I would deem that as the best way to eliminate "BIOS is faulty" type problems.
> Thus:
> -Got to stock
> -Ensure it is stable
> -Force flash (via USB) the BIOS -> latest 1708 one
> -See results


Thank you for the response mate. im using windows 7 ultimate 64bit OS and HDMI cable for my tv.
yes, before trying to OC i make sure that all drivers and Bios are updated, i got the habit of making everything clear and ready before doing something tho this time i think i screwed up a bit







i read a lot of forums about OC'ng but i think my knowledge isn't enough. I update my Bios using a flash drive, follow every instruction and wait for it to finish. Reboot and again, test everything for stability and everything went ok.

before trying to OC i first make sure that all of my hardware/components are stable, i run IBT, prime 95, memtest85, check cpuid using cpu-z. All are working properly on stock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Actually you're agreeing with me. Let me explain why. SpEaKeRb0xXx doesn't reset CMOS prior flashing latest BIOS. It is bad idea, even more bad idea if the BIOS does actually "factory" corrupt. Also if it corrupt, we don't know how bad it is & if it also effect the update program, it might cause bad flash. This is why I said it is bad idea. If SpEaKeRb0xXx does reset CMOS prior flashing BIOS then the "procedure" is correct or proper IMO hence reducing the risk of bad flash. Furthermore without resetting CMOS, the remnant from previous BIOS settings can cause false-positive, making user into thinking it is indeed the BIOS is corrupt even though it actually not. (The last line show I'm agreeing with you on clear CMOS before flashing BIOS.)
> The other reason why it is bad idea, especially for this case, when SpEaKeRb0xXx got RAM error, SpEaKeRb0xXx reduced the RAM voltage instead of increasing it. The right course of action is to "fixed" the settings by increasing the voltage. Flashing BIOS should be the last thing you can try when troubleshooting.
> It is good idea to exercise caution when flashing BIOS. The flashback button doesn't guarantee you can bring back bricked motherboard. There's already few cases it unable to recover corrupted BIOS. When this happen the only way to recover is by programming the BIOS chip using hardware programming tool or buy replacement chip (with BIOS pre-flashed).


Thank you for clearing things up!







actually i never think that flashing fresh Bios is a bad idea esp. if your system tells you that your old Bios is the problem.. Like what ive said before after rebooting or even hard resetting, board LED lights for CPU, RAM, and GPU lights up except for LED light near the chipset which is for the bios (correct me if im wrong), so that's my reason to think that there's a problem with my bios that lead me to flash a fresh one. I also think that flashing a fresh one will reset back all the values to stock which is what happen after i flash it.

But, yeah, i miss alot of troubleshooting things that i should have done first before doing what should have been my last resort.. my bad..








i have done few troubleshooting things so ill just write here what i have missed.
*First*, i should have turn off the system first, disconnect the plug, let the POWER LED go off, wait for at least 10 secs, reconnect the plug and power it on. this will actually give me the black screen where it says "Press F1 to configure and direct me to BIOS" if my OC configuration fails.
*Second*, i should have use the jumper first if the first one doesn't resolve the problem. This will reset all the values to stock. Its like Flashing a fresh Bios without any risk of corrupting your system, so this is 100% safe and most likely will resolve any problem regarding fail OC configuration.
*Third*, If everything else fails, last resort is flash a new bios.. But again, i can see no problem if you'll go directly in flashing a new one except for it got a bit of risk corrupting your system... So rule of thumb is start with safest to safer, if everything else fail. Then do the last resort.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Clear CMOS - before flashing BIOS?
> I've never ever done that unless I have had some serious motherboard faults, and my last option was to reset the CMOS.
> I can see where you are coming from though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course flashing the BIOS should be an operation done carefully - but nowadays, it is kind of impossible to "brick" a motherboard,e specially when you got a means of flashing a BIOS via a USB key.
> Long story short:
> Flashing the latest bios, and flashing it via USB, should be his first course of action, before trying to OC.
> In my case, before starting to OC, I should have tested the stability of STOCK - I didn't and thus "lost" 1 month worth of trial and error around my OC, when I found out that in fact it was a physically bad DIMM that was making my OC fail.
> What I'm trying to say is this:
> Let him eliminate any hardware problems, and software problems, at stock, before contemplating his OC.
> If indeed he finds there is still problems, then he can RMA/return a component.
> OC'ing 101 - 2 golden things I've learnt: (I'm not directing this at you or anyone):
> -Determine your system is fully stable at stock
> -The higher OC you go, the higher voltage you should add - this applies to RAM and CPU, and heck even GPU.


You are correct mate, the only reason you will have a corrupted bios using the safest method is if you download a corrupted BIos file, flashing got interrupted, Failing Board battery, defective flash drive or if you try to flash it with system ON (haven't tried it, i don't know if you will receive a warning if you do that). If you will solve all the risk involve, then i can say that this is the safest way to flash BIOS.

*I manage to solve the problem.*
You and Kizwan are correct and thanks to both of you







, RAM voltage is the culprit. Im Using G.skills Sniper RAM 1600mhz classified as 1.25v
i actually use the stock voltage which is 1.25v while my CPU is at 4.2ghz. it doesn't supply enough load to boot to bios or even post something on my screen. Its like booting up without RAM installed. So i just input 1.5v for DRAM and everything works just fine. I pass IBT 8hrs Stable at 4.2ghz with 1.22v full load with temp max at 68c. As much as i want to go up to 4.5ghz i can't because my CPU can reach 92c in less than 20secs.. Im an asian and our temperature here is quite a bit high like 32c to 34c. So i guess ill just stay below 70c just to be safe. and i think 4.2ghz is already a decent OC.

-The higher OC you go, the higher voltage you should add - this applies to RAM and CPU, and heck even GPU









System:
Proce: i5 3570k
Cooler: Thermaltake 2.0 extreme (3000+rbmPush / 5000+rbmPull) Silent Typhoon Fans
Mobo: Sabertooth z77
RAM: G.skill Sniper 1600mhz CL9 1.25v
GPU: xfx 7970 DD Black (Currently on delivery)
Case: Aerocool Strike X ST Full tower. 7 fans


----------



## kellygtp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> hey kellygtp, downgrade your motherboard bios to 1502. I hear that the 1708 bios causes a lot of issues, I had someone on here like 1 or 2 months ago that had problems with the 1708 bios. I told him just downgrade to the 1502 bios. and everything went well for him. downgrade to the 1502 bios and report back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


will do , is the best method the usb flash back or AI Tuner downloaded file mode>?


----------



## kellygtp

well same result on 1504 bios....8gb showing in bios, 16gb in cpuz, 8 in windows, borad reads there is 4 sticks present, all sticks pass memtest and every slot config per pairing.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> well same result on 1504 bios....8gb showing in bios, 16gb in cpuz, 8 in windows, borad reads there is 4 sticks present, all sticks pass memtest and every slot config per pairing.


I would take all the memory stick out, and blow air cans on the memory slot or you could blow it yourself. do you have another computer to try those 16g of ram, it might be the ram not the mobo.


----------



## kellygtp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> I would take all the memory stick out, and blow air cans on the memory slot or you could blow it yourself. do you have another computer to try those 16g of ram, it might be the ram not the mobo.


Ill check out the memory slots, case is very clean since it is a new build....here is the ram i have , i know its now under QVL but pretty common ram out there
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231455

2 sets that is....

Im trying to think this through, if the ram slots were bad you would think it wouldn't register anything in them and possibly post error out...makes me think its some setting, I have tried clearing CMOS as well....still shows up as 8gb

I just reseated the cpu and cooler looking for a possible bent pin, and its all good.....

hmmmmm


----------



## Z Overlord

so I still get that network disconnect issue that was supposed to have been fixed. Maybe I did the flashing wrong?


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> Ill check out the memory slots, case is very clean since it is a new build....here is the ram i have , i know its now under QVL but pretty common ram out there
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231455
> 2 sets that is....
> Im trying to think this through, if the ram slots were bad you would think it wouldn't register anything in them and possibly post error out...makes me think its some setting, I have tried clearing CMOS as well....still shows up as 8gb
> I just reseated the cpu and cooler looking for a possible bent pin, and its all good.....
> hmmmmm


I have the same ram, but mines is the blue one. i think i would return the mobo and get a replacement. can you return it and get another one.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> Thank you for the response mate. im using windows 7 ultimate 64bit OS and HDMI cable for my tv.


I'm glad it all worked out fine









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> well same result on 1504 bios....8gb showing in bios, 16gb in cpuz, 8 in windows, borad reads there is 4 sticks present, all sticks pass memtest and every slot config per pairing.


See the chap above - could it be RAM voltage wise?
Have you tried increasing that?
That's a LONG shot, but who knows, worth trying.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> I would take all the memory stick out, and blow air cans on the memory slot or you could blow it yourself. do you have another computer to try those 16g of ram, it might be the ram not the mobo.


Indeed if you can take the RAM, and put it on another board, you'll instantly know what's the problem.
However, if each of them work, in all slots - then to me that would be motherboard or CPU related.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> I have the same ram, but mines is the blue one. i think i would return the mobo and get a replacement. can you return it and get another one.


I've actually tried the 1600mhz one with 8GB (2x4GB) and they worked fine on my board too.


----------



## kellygtp

thanks for all the help guys, decided to take it back to Microcenter and got a p8z77 PRO and now all 16gb are showing, must have been the board, they were out of sabertooths









But this is a nice board too, doesnt look as nice sitting in the case but it will do the job just fine


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> thanks for all the help guys, decided to take it back to Microcenter and got a p8z77 PRO and now all 16gb are showing, must have been the board, they were out of sabertooths
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But this is a nice board too, doesnt look as nice sitting in the case but it will do the job just fine


Glad it is sorted - and that you and I determined that it is/was the board and nothing else.
Thank god it wasn't the IMC!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm in the same situation. I really want to control my sp120s, on my antec 920 - is there no way of doing this?


NZXT Sentry Mesh with Y splitter.







That's what I did. There's a post from myself earlier in this thread. The only bad thing is they like full power. Anything in between and they make a ticking noise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellygtp*
> 
> yeah i have tried each set in each slot config ( a1 b1 and a2 b2) this is racking my brain here lol
> I just went in and manually set the memory speed to 1866 and it doesnt boot.....red light above memok button turns on, so i pres it in until it flashes then goes off.
> Just looked to take this back to MC and they are out of stock here in KC, fantastic...


Have you tried this?

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/79177-windows-experience-index-reset.html

WEI is the only thing that's showing that incorrect amount right? CPU Z and bios show the correct amount of ram?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> NZXT Sentry Mesh with Y splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I did. There's a post from myself earlier in this thread. The only bad thing is they like full power. Anything in between and they make a ticking noise.
> Have you tried this?
> http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/79177-windows-experience-index-reset.html
> WEI is the only thing that's showing that incorrect amount right? CPU Z and bios show the correct amount of ram?


A that's a fan controller - do i really need one?
Can't I just get some sort of cable that will allow me to do this?

As for kelly's problem -> he has now changed board, and it was indeed the board that was faulty.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> A that's a fan controller - do i really need one?
> Can't I just get some sort of cable that will allow me to do this?
> As for kelly's problem -> he has now changed board, and it was indeed the board that was faulty.


Well, it is the most simplified solution. I'm assuming your SP120s are on your H100 like mine. They are 3 pinned, so you can't plug them into the CPU Fan port nor the H100 fan controller because they are not compatible.

You can either 1. Buy a fan controller and Y cable to control both fans with 1 slider or 2. Plug them into a Y cable and plug them into another fan port on the motherboard and use AI Suite.

Being that you don't like AI Suite, I think your only option is 1.


----------



## tekkkk

Loving my Sabertooth Z77, looks amazing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Well, it is the most simplified solution. I'm assuming your SP120s are on your H100 like mine. They are 3 pinned, so you can't plug them into the CPU Fan port nor the H100 fan controller because they are not compatible.
> You can either 1. Buy a fan controller and Y cable to control both fans with 1 slider or 2. Plug them into a Y cable and plug them into another fan port on the motherboard and use AI Suite.
> Being that you don't like AI Suite, I think your only option is 1.


Nop - I have the antec 920 - but I don't use AI suite II either lol








Thanks for the suggestion regardless!


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tekkkk*
> 
> 
> Loving my Sabertooth Z77, looks amazing


haha hello there tekkkk







fancy seeing you here lol, must admit, yours looks better than mine lol


----------



## tuxx

hey guys, i've had this group for ages, as i thought it was a kickass name for a clan/guild lol, but it could be a good group for Sabertooth z77 (or even sabertooth owners in general) owners that are gamers







could even post announcements when new updates are available on it.

http://steamcommunity.com/groups/TUF-TheUltimateForce

not to mention, T U F looks sick in games that have the clan prefix that use steams groups.


----------



## tekkkk

Just took some photos with a camera instead of a phone







.. looks much tidier.


----------



## jktmas

why do most of us have corsair H series? it seems a little odd that we all have the same board and most of us have the same cooling system.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> why do most of us have corsair H series? it seems a little odd that we all have the same board and most of us have the same cooling system.


because its a beautiful combination









and we are all awesome. Especially me.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> because its a beautiful combination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and we are all awesome. Especially me.


Agreed, most of the fan only based coolers are huge hideous looking things.


----------



## Jasebrooks

My Z77 Board with Intel i7 3660k



I had no problem putting the computer together, But for some reason I can't get the Mylogo application to work.

I flashed the bios with my new image. Preview and auto tune says it's ok. But when I boot up. It does not display it.

It's just a blank screen. When I reflash the bios without changing the logo. The orginal splash screen shows up again.

I tried jpeg, bmp, and gif formats with sizes under 150k. But for some reason it won't take my picture. I am stumped.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It would nice to be able to custom the splash screen.

-Jase


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Agreed, most of the fan only based coolers are huge hideous looking things.


Thanks for agreeing that I am awesome


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> why do most of us have corsair H series? it seems a little odd that we all have the same board and most of us have the same cooling system.


Well, why get a great looking board like the Sabertooth and cover it up with a giant ugly fan? Seems like this board deserves to be seen and is a great match for water cooling - and one of the eaiset ways is the Corsair H series, which also looks good on a system!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm kind of regretting not going for the h100 to be honest, but I really love my antec 920.
I feel fans are old school or for more budget systems that don't run as hot.

Although I'm in total envy of fully water cooled systems. I would really want to watercool my entire system, gfx included for the heck of it


----------



## Davitz

always looks better than a giant piece of finned aluminum with fans plastered all over it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's very much sexy!
Stop making me jealous!


----------



## spawn10459

Hello guys. First time here.

I just got the Z77 with the i5 3570k GTX 660 TI.

Installed every thing fine. installed all the crap on the mobo cd. but i ran into a problem with my old sound board not working at all. creative X-fi. not a problem just used on board.

my next problem is when i start my computer and windows loads to see the desk top. it takes about 3min before i can open any thing. and in the bottom right it looks like its searching for an internet connection. after about 3 min it pops up saying i have acess. and unlocks my desktop.

Any one have a clue what could be causing this and or how to stop this?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Hello guys. First time here.
> 
> I just got the Z77 with the i5 3570k GTX 660 TI.
> 
> Installed every thing fine. installed all the crap on the mobo cd. but i ran into a problem with my old sound board not working at all. creative X-fi. not a problem just used on board.
> 
> my next problem is when i start my computer and windows loads to see the desk top. it takes about 3min before i can open any thing. and in the bottom right it looks like its searching for an internet connection. after about 3 min it pops up saying i have acess. and unlocks my desktop.
> 
> Any one have a clue what could be causing this and or how to stop this?


Well, wellcome to the thread *spawn10459*. I do not know exactly what the problem is but I have some ideas as to what I might do if it was my system and hope others do too who may know more.

3 min is a long time to wait. Did you do a new install of windows? Or just remove old MB drivers and then install the new drivers off the CD? Or did you even remove the old drivers? Also, is the OS on a SSD?

You should try removing and reinstalling the LAN dirvers as a minimum if you have not tried that already. Maybe try removing all the MB drivers and reinstalling them if that does not work. Then consider a new windows install if that does not solve it.

I expect that last idea would solve both the LAN and sound card problem if the other things don't work first. Hope others have better ideas if these are not good for you!


----------



## saura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's very much sexy!
> Stop making me jealous!


Nope, that's almost gay.... This Sir is what you call sexy


----------



## Trackzilla

Trying to slipstream an XP disc with nLite, anyone have any idea which textmode driver(s) I need for this MB?


----------



## spawn10459

ok this is odd. i responded here about 2 hours ago with a problem i'm having and now its not here. where did my post go?

any hoot.

I have the Z77 mother board, i5 cpu, gtx 660 TI.
I installed every thing but when i start windows and i see my desk top at the bottom right it looks like the icon for searching for an IP address is coming up and while this is running im locked out of my desk top. nothing will open and or run for about 3 to 4 min.

If im lucky and i spawm click vent it will pop up and i can connect right away.

That was problem #1

Problem #2.
My creative F-Xi sound board will not work with this mobo. rear panel sound does not work. front panel works but nothing else. searched for help there found nothing. so i went to the on board sound.

Problem #3
my PC randomly just turns off. some times it says mother board was turned off due to a power surge in the power supply. No clue what that means. its happening after 2 min of run time. CPU temp is 32 c video card is at 27 c.

During border lands 2 CUP gets to 60c and video gets to 70c

What could be casusing my PC to randomy crash. im starting to regreat up grading to this board. nothing but problems.

Oh and no nothing is over clocked.


----------



## spawn10459

test


----------



## Trackzilla

actually spawn, I recall seeing that earlier...and some answers from others...hit the 'previous' tab at the bottom & look for them


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> ok this is odd. i responded here about 2 hours ago with a problem i'm having and now its not here. where did my post go?
> 
> any hoot.
> 
> I have the Z77 mother board, i5 cpu, gtx 660 TI.
> I installed every thing but when i start windows and i see my desk top at the bottom right it looks like the icon for searching for an IP address is coming up and while this is running im locked out of my desk top. nothing will open and or run for about 3 to 4 min.
> 
> If im lucky and i spawm click vent it will pop up and i can connect right away.
> 
> That was problem #1
> 
> Problem #2.
> My creative F-Xi sound board will not work with this mobo. rear panel sound does not work. front panel works but nothing else. searched for help there found nothing. so i went to the on board sound.
> 
> Problem #3
> my PC randomly just turns off. some times it says mother board was turned off due to a power surge in the power supply. No clue what that means. its happening after 2 min of run time. CPU temp is 32 c video card is at 27 c.
> 
> During border lands 2 CUP gets to 60c and video gets to 70c
> 
> What could be casusing my PC to randomy crash. im starting to regreat up grading to this board. nothing but problems.
> 
> Oh and no nothing is over clocked.


*spawn10459*, you did post #3968 one page back, and I responded on post #3969.

What I said then was:

"Well, wellcome to the thread *spawn10459*. I do not know exactly what the problem is but I have some ideas as to what I might do if it was my system and hope others do too who may know more.

3 min is a long time to wait. Did you do a new install of windows? Or just remove old MB drivers and then install the new drivers off the CD? Or did you even remove the old drivers? Also, is the OS on a SSD?

You should try removing and reinstalling the LAN dirvers as a minimum if you have not tried that already. Maybe try removing all the MB drivers and reinstalling them if that does not work. Then consider a new windows install if that does not solve it.

I expect that last idea would solve both the LAN and sound card problem if the other things don't work first. Hope others have better ideas if these are not good for you!







"

I now also wonder about your psu too, or maybe something power related - a lose cable or a shorted one. And it looks more and more like you should reinstall windows if reinstalling the MB drivers does not work....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I know spawns problem by heart...
Stupid asus crap is making you do that. Two things: ai fan controller service is failing to start and asus disk unlocker is failing to start.
Check event viewer, to check that, and services.msc in run.
My pc would boot into Windows in 1min, then take 4mins within Windows in order to run.

As for board crashing: try upping the voltage on your ram, if you're on stock, your custom ram, might need some voltages to run.

As for the xfi - drivers and Molex power

Finally, as pc war gamer said : if you solve that, I suggest reinstalling Windows. That's what I did - best thing I did: removing all that crap that Asus provide and try and force unto you.
Now all I've got installed from the CD (later updated from the internet) is the lan drivers, the sata ones and the audio ones


----------



## ppunter

Hi guys,

i installed my gpu in the 2nd pci-e x16 slot for esthetic reasons.
but the gpu only works at x8 instead of x16
why is that? the specs of the sabertooth says they are both phisical x16
unless you install 2 cards it's x8 both but i only installed one card so..

i tried to thange some settings in the bios but it never changed to x16.
did i miss anything?
is it at all possible to install 1 gpu on pci-e x16 slot 2 (brown) and get x16?

by the way:
installing my gpu in pci-e x16 slot 1 (beige) is ok because it says x16 right away, no issues/questions here

any comments/suggestions?


----------



## spawn10459

Thanks for the reply. for some reason when i go back a page my post doesnt show up. no idea why lol. but i'll give that a go and see what happens. i ordered a new 850 watt power supply just in case this old 700 watt is the problem for the power turning off.

I'm goin try reinstalling the Mother board drivers now. and hope it works. i'll check back and give ya an update.

thanks for the replys guys.


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I know spawns problem by heart...
> Stupid asus crap is making you do that. Two things: ai fan controller service is failing to start and asus disk unlocker is failing to start.
> Check event viewer, to check that, and services.msc in run.
> My pc would boot into Windows in 1min, then take 4mins within Windows in order to run.
> As for board crashing: try upping the voltage on your ram, if you're on stock, your custom ram, might need some voltages to run.
> As for the xfi - drivers and Molex power
> Finally, as pc war gamer said : if you solve that, I suggest reinstalling Windows. That's what I did - best thing I did: removing all that crap that Asus provide and try and force unto you.
> Now all I've got installed from the CD (later updated from the internet) is the lan drivers, the sata ones and the audio ones


How do i increase the voltage to my ram?


----------



## xD3S1x

if anyone using H100i.. do you use the Fans it come with or you replace those round fans with square fans/other fans? if you get me ;p


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppunter*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i installed my gpu in the 2nd pci-e x16 slot for esthetic reasons.
> but the gpu only works at x8 instead of x16
> why is that? the specs of the sabertooth says they are both phisical x16
> unless you install 2 cards it's x8 both but i only installed one card so..
> 
> i tried to thange some settings in the bios but it never changed to x16.
> did i miss anything?
> is it at all possible to install 1 gpu on pci-e x16 slot 2 (brown) and get x16?
> 
> by the way:
> installing my gpu in pci-e x16 slot 1 (beige) is ok because it says x16 right away, no issues/questions here
> 
> any comments/suggestions?


Because the 2nd & 3rd PCIe x16 slots are electrically x8 link. Only the first PCIe x16 slot is electrically x16 link.


----------



## ppunter

bummer! thanks, moving to slot 1 then..


----------



## spawn10459

Ok i got my windows to boot in 20 sec. this is acceptable









i went to services and turned off asus fan control service. this cut out 1min of load time.

Thanks for the help with that issue.

and just one random question. how do i over clock my CPU and Ram?


----------



## chillidog

am now a Proud Owner of a asus sabertooth z77 new build and now i need some help to do some over clocking somewhere around 4.4-4.5.
spec: asus z77 sabertooth.
intel i5 3570k
Corsair Vengeance 8GB @1600
antec kuhler h20 920
Crucial RealSSD M4 128GB main drive
powercolour 6970
tagan 700w power

my old system was asus p8z68-v pro with i5 2500k with h70 i manage to oc to a stable 24hr @4.9 but with this new set up things seem to be a bit different,am not going to use the asus suite at all so any overclocking would have to be by manual
so i would be very gratefull if anyone could help us please


----------



## Bdonedge

Does this board with work AMD cards? I have the 6970 and want to make the switch to a 3570K and want this board. thanks


----------



## rmorse27

the boards does both ati and nvidia.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> How do i increase the voltage to my ram?


In the bios mate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Ok i got my windows to boot in 20 sec. this is acceptable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i went to services and turned off asus fan control service. this cut out 1min of load time.
> Thanks for the help with that issue.
> and just one random question. how do i over clock my CPU and Ram?


Hahaha knew it was those pesky things
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Does this board with work AMD cards? I have the 6970 and want to make the switch to a 3570K and want this board. thanks


Crossfire and sli compatible too. So yeah it works with both amd and nvidia


----------



## Bdonedge

Would you guys recommend this over the ASUS P8Z77-V PRO? I'm about to make the plunge. Anything I need to know about either?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Would you guys recommend this over the ASUS P8Z77-V PRO? I'm about to make the plunge. Anything I need to know about either?


One person had a problem with the saber, returned it for the pro.
End of the day - it's down to aesthetics


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> One person had a problem with the saber, returned it for the pro.
> End of the day - it's down to aesthetics


thanks! what sort of problem was it? I'm debating between these boards and a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H, thoughts on that?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Does this board with work AMD cards? I have the 6970 and want to make the switch to a 3570K and want this board. thanks


yes it doe's got mine sloted in one of the pcle 3.0x16 and works ok


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> thanks! what sort of problem was it? I'm debating between these boards and a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H, thoughts on that?


It was a problem with the ram slots.


----------



## MadHocus

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi guys
> Has any one do a clean install of windows 8 pro on there sabertooth
> If so my I ask what drivers did you installed
> Some one told me all I need to install is my NVidia driver they said windows 8
> will find all the drivers for the motherboard.
> thanks


I put windows 7 and then did an upgrade but can't see any problems. Hopefully a fresh install would be okay.


----------



## Bdonedge

I have a TX650 watt corsair, think I need to upgrade that as well for a single GPU setup? mild overclocking on CPU and ram


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I have a TX650 watt corsair, think I need to upgrade that as well for a single GPU setup? mild overclocking on CPU and ram


What gfx are you going to put?
650 should be fine, just pushing it a little. Ocing isn't the one you should be worried about, gfx card is.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What gfx are you going to put?
> 650 should be fine, just pushing it a little. Ocing isn't the one you should be worried about, gfx card is.


I have a ASUS 6970, I think it's OC'd out of the box so I'll have to figure out how to bring it to normal, but anyway, yeah..


----------



## Bdonedge

I'll probably get a 750 just to be safe. Shouldn't have any issue with that, right?


----------



## ppunter

ax750 user here, no issues


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppunter*
> 
> ax750 user here, no issues


what graphics card?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I have a ASUS 6970, I think it's OC'd out of the box so I'll have to figure out how to bring it to normal, but anyway, yeah..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I'll probably get a 750 just to be safe. Shouldn't have any issue with that, right?


750 to be safe, but 550 is more than enough put it that way.
650 - a good 650, then you should be fine oced or not.
Ocing isn't the issue as I said, just your components. Ie. Ivy bridge, with fans, with other things...like the gfx


----------



## Bdonedge

thanks for the help. just purchased. have all the components coming in. Bought corsair ram that was on the recommended list on the asus website. Never installed a intel cpu, I know the pins are on the board instead of the cpu. anyone recommend me a video so I can watch how I'm supposed to install it? thanks!


----------



## spawn10459

OK how do i increase the volts to my ram. i cant find where in the bios to do this. and i found that my board only crashes when playing border lands 2.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

My Christmas tree... a little hell on earth lol.
Ill shutdown all theses lights and just buy the 2 meter led lights.
I think im the only one who uses Thermal take extreme 2.0 water cooling system here.









My system without gpu and sound card (cant wait for those piece, shipment already delayed for a week now







)
havent installed my typhoons yet





Im planning to change my RAm to this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233285 im just not sure if it'll work. Its not on the list supported by the board. Anyone got this card? Or to this package http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=16828346


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> thanks for the help. just purchased. have all the components coming in. Bought corsair ram that was on the recommended list on the asus website. Never installed a intel cpu, I know the pins are on the board instead of the cpu. anyone recommend me a video so I can watch how I'm supposed to install it? thanks!


you can just read the manuals that comes with the package, everything that you need to know about installing is in there. you'll never go wrong









You can just leave the cpu cover attached, open the lid, place your CPU, just make sure that the two holes on each side of your cpu will fit with CPU socket of your board. If it does then everything will be fine, all you need to do is to put back the lid and lock, Cpu cover will pop out and don't forget to keep it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> OK how do i increase the volts to my ram. i cant find where in the bios to do this. and i found that my board only crashes when playing border lands 2.


You can see it in BIOS bro, it is labelled as "DRAM VOLTAGE" just beneath "CPU VOLTAGE"


----------



## morta

can somone tell me how i set my vcore so its not at 1.2v? im very confused..iv changed the turbo clock to 43 iv left the cpu voltage on ofsett mode and keyd in the min value 0.005 and put load line calibration at ragulre and still im gettin 1.2volts showing up in cpuz and hardware monitor. resson being is beacuse if i leave everythign at auto and just change the turbo clock to a higher value.(so far the highest iv tryd is 4.4) but it automaticly incresses my vcore to a stupid level. 1.42v! i dont want to overvolt my chip so how do i keep the turbo clock at 44 but give it les then 1.2 v for testing. i dont get it.


----------



## Bdonedge

sorry for bombarding with questions. Just a lot of money I spent and I get worried heh..

I was reading compatibility issues this board had with the 6950 that was flashed as a 6970. Still curious if I'm going to run into any problems there


----------



## isidore

Hi guys sorry not reading the thread but is pretty big, i have a weird issue with my sabertooth z77 mobo.

I recently oc my cpu with my new motherboard sabertooth z77, the weird thing is that after the oc, the system has a weird symptom. Random when i start my PC, my CPU LED turns on, the system restarts, after that it goes to the windows loading screen, i get a blue screen. If i reset it it boots up normal.

My rig is:
cooler master 620w psu
corei5 2500k oc to 4.6ghz 1.385v on noctua nh-c14 cooler
sabertooth z77 mobo
2x4gb corsair vengeance at 1600mhz

Let me specify that my system is 100% stable in prime 95, temps are perfectly good, after the led error and the blue screen the pc runs without a issue.

Any ideas?


----------



## spawn10459

Ok so i increased the vots to the ram. still crashing after about 15min of game time. no matter what game i play now, it crashes.

Could it be the power supply? or is there some thing wrong with the board. i've NEVER had this many peoblems with a new system.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Ok so i increased the vots to the ram. still crashing after about 15min of game time. no matter what game i play now, it crashes.
> Could it be the power supply? or is there some thing wrong with the board. i've NEVER had this many peoblems with a new system.


You're on stock?
What psu do you have? Watt wise? And what other things do you have? Sounds hardware related, something needs to be rmaed


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Ok so i increased the vots to the ram. still crashing after about 15min of game time. no matter what game i play now, it crashes.
> Could it be the power supply? or is there some thing wrong with the board. i've NEVER had this many peoblems with a new system.


could also be a overheating issue man, double check heatsink


----------



## madscientist03

Hey guys, 1st post.

I've had my Z77 Ivy bridge build since the beginning of Nov 2012.
My issue i'm running into right now is the following

I'm running a 60gb Vertex 3 SSD as my C: in windows 7, I use my 1 Tb as a storage drive so anything installed gets put onto there. Anyways, now my hdd(1 tb) won't boot and since all of my installed programs are on that drive that no longer works. Sometimes rebooting the pc multiple times gets the hdd to work, i've tried system restore and i've made certain that my hdd is being plugged into a sata 2 port and not a sata 3 or a an asmedia port. Whenever I start the pc up i went from 30 second boots on my ssd to 2-3 mins and still can't find my E: storage drive. It's been happening the last 2 weeks. One day I managed to back everything up onto an external hard drive while I was able to access that storage drive. Another note to add... the drive is still spinning when the computer is on, it jsut won't detect the drive. I've also tried new sata cable and new power cable to fix the issue and still no change.

Z77 with the newest bios available with 3770k
2X8gb patriot ram running XMP
60gb SSD Vertex 3(used as boot drive)
1tb Seagate 7200rpm (used as storage drive)
corsair 1000watt power supply
evga 4gb 680gtx FTW+ edition
LEGIT version of windows 7

Hopefully that is enough detail for you guys, If you have questions you need to ask in order to troubleshoot more feel free to ask and I'll respond asap.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madscientist03*
> 
> Hey guys, 1st post.
> 
> I've had my Z77 Ivy bridge build since the beginning of Nov 2012.
> My issue i'm running into right now is the following
> 
> I'm running a 60gb Vertex 3 SSD as my C: in windows 7, I use my 1 Tb as a storage drive so anything installed gets put onto there. Anyways, now my hdd(1 tb) won't boot and since all of my installed programs are on that drive that no longer works. Sometimes rebooting the pc multiple times gets the hdd to work, i've tried system restore and i've made certain that my hdd is being plugged into a sata 2 port and not a sata 3 or a an asmedia port. Whenever I start the pc up i went from 30 second boots on my ssd to 2-3 mins and still can't find my E: storage drive. It's been happening the last 2 weeks. One day I managed to back everything up onto an external hard drive while I was able to access that storage drive. Another note to add... the drive is still spinning when the computer is on, it jsut won't detect the drive. I've also tried new sata cable and new power cable to fix the issue and still no change.
> 
> Z77 with the newest bios available with 3770k
> 2X8gb patriot ram running XMP
> 60gb SSD Vertex 3(used as boot drive)
> 1tb Seagate 7200rpm (used as storage drive)
> corsair 1000watt power supply
> evga 4gb 680gtx FTW+ edition
> LEGIT version of windows 7
> 
> Hopefully that is enough detail for you guys, If you have questions you need to ask in order to troubleshoot more feel free to ask and I'll respond asap.


*madscientist03*, that sounds like it might be due to the SandForce SSD controller (SF-2281) issue. Do google search on the issue if you want, but main fix is an upgrade to the SSD firmware. It solves most of the problems with this as it is a known problem with that controller - I have had to deal with it myself. Some people still have issues even after the firmware upgrade, but most do not and you have to start there anyway.


----------



## madscientist03

I looked into it and my SSD has 2.15 and the newest f/w is 2.25

Unfortunately it's going to take me forever to go through the steps to verify if this is in fact a real fix. I'll post back results when I get around to it in the next day or two


----------



## budgetcreep2012

Does anyone know how to get into the computer if you have completley corrupted the BIOS? I have turned my SBZ77 into a vegetable, only signs of life are fans spinning up...


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madscientist03*
> 
> I looked into it and my SSD has 2.15 and the newest f/w is 2.25
> 
> Unfortunately it's going to take me forever to go through the steps to verify if this is in fact a real fix. I'll post back results when I get around to it in the next day or two


Good chance that newer firmware has your fix. I think for mine it was a download to a usb that I then booted from it to upgrade the SSD firmware. Check your manufacturer for their process of course, but it was not hard to do and it solved my simular problems. Good luck!


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *budgetcreep2012*
> 
> Does anyone know how to get into the computer if you have completley corrupted the BIOS? I have turned my SBZ77 into a vegetable, only signs of life are fans spinning up...


If it does not have some forced BIOS upgrade option (ie like Sabertooth MBs do), then you might need to either RMA it (takes lots of time) or order some new BIOS chip already perloaded with whatever BIOS you can get/want. I think the chips are on-sale on ebay and computer parts sites like newegg, plus the MB manufacturer too. This will fix it if the only issues is messed up BIOS. Cost is around $15 plus shipping IIRC.

But since you should have a Sabertooth if you are on this thread, then try the forced BIOS option with a USB and the botton in the back of the MB! SHould work...


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> could also be a overheating issue man, double check heatsink


How would I go about checking this? My CPU has no gone above 40c. Video board gtx 660 ti gets to about 60c. I have a 700 watt psu. It's about 7 years old though. I have new ram ordered and a new psu 850 watt.


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You're on stock?
> What psu do you have? Watt wise? And what other things do you have? Sounds hardware related, something needs to be rmaed


700 watt PSU intel i5, gtx 660 TI. 8 gigs of ram. thats all i got in this POS.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> 700 watt PSU intel i5, gtx 660 TI. 8 gigs of ram. thats all i got in this POS.


Sorry to say, but you need to rma either the psu or the motherboard.


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sorry to say, but you need to rma either the psu or the motherboard.


The PSU i am useing in close to 8 years old. i will have a new 850 watt PSU on wed. if after the same problems presist i will RMA the board.

whats a normal temp for the CPU? while playing wow it got up to 60c.

How much better is water cooling then a top of the line CPU cooling unit? and if i dont over clock do i need water cooling?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> The PSU i am useing in close to 8 years old. i will have a new 850 watt PSU on wed. if after the same problems presist i will RMA the board.
> whats a normal temp for the CPU? while playing wow it got up to 60c.
> How much better is water cooling then a top of the line CPU cooling unit? and if i dont over clock do i need water cooling?


Psu can't cope then.
As for the fan vs liquid. I can't comment on it, but you definitely could do with a fan, not the stock Intel one.
Liquid cooling is better in my opinion and cooler (literally? Lol)







!


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> The PSU i am useing in close to 8 years old. i will have a new 850 watt PSU on wed. if after the same problems presist i will RMA the board.
> whats a normal temp for the CPU? while playing wow it got up to 60c.
> How much better is water cooling then a top of the line CPU cooling unit? and if i dont over clock do i need water cooling?


does it shut down if you play WoW? 60C for intel is normal IIRC?

I know a safety precaution for overheating CPU's is to shut down immediately to preserve hardware. I would get Openhardwaremonitor and go to the settings and have it make a log of your temperatures every X amount of time or something that way you can see what the highest temp is after it shuts down


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> yes it doe's got mine sloted in one of the pcle 3.0x16 and works ok


PMed


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Psu can't cope then.
> As for the fan vs liquid. I can't comment on it, but you definitely could do with a fan, not the stock Intel one.
> Liquid cooling is better in my opinion and cooler (literally? Lol)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Well if the problem is still happening after the new power supply, hello refund and good by asus.








the board looks awesome too


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> does it shut down if you play WoW? 60C for intel is normal IIRC?
> I know a safety precaution for overheating CPU's is to shut down immediately to preserve hardware. I would get Openhardwaremonitor and go to the settings and have it make a log of your temperatures every X amount of time or something that way you can see what the highest temp is after it shuts down


yes it shuts down no matter what game i play. border lands 2 causes it to shut down the fastist.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> does it shut down if you play WoW? 60C for intel is normal IIRC?
> I know a safety precaution for overheating CPU's is to shut down immediately to preserve hardware. I would get Openhardwaremonitor and go to the settings and have it make a log of your temperatures every X amount of time or something that way you can see what the highest temp is after it shuts down
> 
> 
> 
> yes it shuts down no matter what game i play. border lands 2 causes it to shut down the fastist.
Click to expand...

Wow. That's a bummer *spawn10459*. High temps would throttle the cpu, not shut it down, so more likely the PSU. And if that does not fix it, then RMA or return the board.


----------



## isidore

So no ideas? why i get the cpu error led random on startup? it really bugging me..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> So no ideas? why i get the cpu error led random on startup? it really bugging me..


No idea myself, could be a bent cpu pin?
Maybe worth getting the cpu out and putting it back in


----------



## Thomas85

Hello from Norway. I'm new here and just got my Sabertooth. Still waiting for the i5 3570k so for now I only can look at the gorgeous mobo 








The XFX 5850 Black GPU is a old card but it should still run most games 
I've have been an Asus owner in many years now but on the AMD/ATi side. The A85NX mobo or the X2Athlon CPU got fried a couple of months ago so it was about fu**** time to update 
Lets hope this new card is futureproof and will give maaaany hours with gaming 
Cheers


----------



## morta

can somone please answer me .il post again. why is it that when i manualy set in the bios the cpu offset voltage to the lowest value 0.005 the voltage at min is reported on the thermal radar and hardware moniter as 1.21v ? i thought an i5 3750k was sapost to have low voltage in the 0.098 range beacuse of rapid heat.and i allso was lead to beleave that these cpus should be able to reach 4.3ghz on stock voltage..but why is it when i try to manualy set offset voltage i cant get lower voltage..im very confused. and im finding it hard to explain this as it is


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> can somone please answer me .il post again. why is it that when i manualy set in the bios the cpu offset voltage to the lowest value 0.005 the voltage at min is reported on the thermal radar and hardware moniter as 1.21v ? i thought an i5 3750k was sapost to have low voltage in the 0.098 range beacuse of rapid heat.and i allso was lead to beleave that these cpus should be able to reach 4.3ghz on stock voltage..but why is it when i try to manualy set offset voltage i cant get lower voltage..im very confused. and im finding it hard to explain this as it is


Simply put: offset is offsetting from a certain voltage - that voltage is determined by what your stable manual voltage is.
Long story short, it goes plus or minus offset, based on the vid. Your goal in an oc would be to find your stable manual voltage, before touching the offset button.
To get 4.5ghz you're looking at anywhere from 1.2 to 1.3v


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> yes it shuts down no matter what game i play. border lands 2 causes it to shut down the fastist.


*Spawn*, uhm can you verify if you're on stock? Try to hit F5 on bios to load default settings and then try to play games.. There's no reason for your computer to crash on stock. And probably the main problem is your PSU, your system is booting up but on certain activity and load it shut down, yeah? Probably your old PSU can't provide needed power to a certain load for your computer to work properly, so your system will shut down. Im 90% sure that your new psu will solve your problem.

Also, did you update your bios? you might want to give it a shot.

For the meantime, you can check your old PSU for any defects.. like bloated capacitors, damage cables, etc. if you spotted one, ill advice you not to use it anymore and just wait for your new PSU for it may damage your whole system.

For water cooling or fan question. They're both great but it will depend on how you gonna use or OC your system. I prefer water cooling over fan just because we got a very eye catchy board. if you got the extra bucks and sometimes you just want to stare and appreciate the beauty of your board then go for the water cooling system. it'll give you a clearer view of your board. you just need to make sure you got the space for it.

3c to 5c difference between fan and water cooling is actually not that bad.

You can go with corsair for water cooling system or Noctua for Fan. I can also advice Thermaltake extreme 2.0 its actually a good water cooler tho most people don't trust TT. you can do a bit if review if you want.

Now if you wont do any OC'ng, stock CPU fan is enough.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'll never trust a stock £2 Intel fan, on a £255 chip lol - that's my take on it. Be it on stock or heavily oced


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'll never trust a stock £2 Intel fan, on a £255 chip lol - that's my take on it. Be it on stock or heavily oced


yup me too!







but i think intel wont include a fan that is not capable of cooling its own CPU on stock. And i think no manufacturer will do that or else they will be bombard with rma, negative feedback or burnt chip because of their incapable stock fan. Im using a stock fan before switching to water cooling system. Intel Stock fan on stock clock is 45 on idle and 63 to 67c on max (real temp 370) and my environment is on 30c minimum (lol). that is actually high temp on stock but waay below threshold. So i can consider it not that good, but safe.


----------



## morta

ah ok. i dont quite understand that though because i only see one option for cpu voltage and i can only chose one type for adjusting. its either auto,offset or fixed. am i missing a setting somwere.? thanks for replying


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> So no ideas? why i get the cpu error led random on startup? it really bugging me..


Is it affecting performance at all?


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ah ok. i dont quite understand that though because i only see one option for cpu voltage and i can only chose one type for adjusting. its either auto,offset or fixed. am i missing a setting somwere.? thanks for replying


on CPU voltage chose "offset" just below that there will be a drop down again where you need to chose between "-" and "+" . Now to simply explain what sign you will be using, you need to use applications that will tell you what default voltage ur CPU is currently using like cpu-z.
Now for example your common voltage range is already on 1.37v. and you just want to OC to 4.2ghz. If you will ask me, that is already high or over power or more than enough for just 4.2ghz clock (it is considered as a standard class chip) You can leave it as it is coz 100% it'll work but leaving CPU offset voltage to "Auto" is a big NO, your system can easily give you 1.5v or even higher CPU voltage.. that already exceeds the boundary. So if you want to fine tune your system and lessen that CPU voltage to what is only needed, here's how... You will be using "-" sign to lessen that CPU Voltage, you need to chose "-" and just below that, there will be a box which is known as "CPU Offset voltage". In its box there will be the word "auto" on it. You can change it to a certain value that you like or just use the -/+ sign on your keyboard for 0.005 increment per click. So for example if you are on 1.37 volts and you will be using "-" and you put 0.005 value on your CPU Offset voltage, that will be.

1.370 (current voltage)
-
0.005 (CPU offset voltage)
1.365v (you can see the result if you will run cpu-z applications once you are running windows again)

The more CPU offset voltage you increase with "-" sign, the more CPU voltage it will decrease on your current CPU voltage.

1.37
-
0.025
1.345

Vise versa.

if your CPU current voltage is like 1.1v and you want to OC to 4.5ghz. That is too low for your system to run in 4.5ghz, chances are.. Your system wont boot up, or hangs up, will reboot or you will have BSOD. dont panic.. all you need to do is increase your CPU voltage using CPU offset voltage..
So this time you will be using the "+" sign.. the more cpu offset voltage you will add, the more CPU voltage you will have. Don't just guess what numbers you will be placing on CPU offset voltage. Use +/- sign on your keyboard for 0.005 increment. I always test my system for stability every increment so, i can make sure that my system is using only what it needs to run. If your system wont boot up, increase offset voltage. If it hangs, increase again, if it boot up but with BSOD, just increase again until it boot up without any problem. then run test. If same issue occur, dont lose hope, just increase again until you can run a test for minimum of 8hrs without experiencing system failure.

1.100v
+
0.025v
1.125

1.100v
+
0.100v
1.200

No extra voltage means lesser heat and less power consumption









BTW: you can set your DRAM voltage to 1.5v (manual/standard) while tuning your system. This will lessen your problem regarding RAM issues upon OC'ng
Also: always take note of your temperature, staying below 80c is desired but staying below 70c on full load is awesome


----------



## tuxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> why do most of us have corsair H series? it seems a little odd that we all have the same board and most of us have the same cooling system.


i got the Thermaltake Water 2.0 pro







won it on there Facebook page haha. might get a h100i though.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuxx*
> 
> i got the Thermaltake Water 2.0 pro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> won it on there Facebook page haha. might get a h100i though.


I got the TT 2.0 extreme and happy with it. If ever ill change it, it'll be for custom water cooling kit. XSPC or EK.


----------



## VettePilot

Since the P67 is no longer sold, and I may need to replace mine with this one since it is compatable with my 2700k I assume I will have to either buy a new copy of win 7 pro since mine is the OEM version. Not sure if MS will give me a new key code for my copy? I am getting random shut downs and I have tried other RAM and another GPU, reseated all teh connectors, and it will hang on boot and the red CPU and Mem light will stay on and nothing happens. The GPU fans will not spin up but case fans do. I did the normal things liek taking out all the RAM and then the CPU light will go off but the Mem light will stay lite or it will go off and the VGA led will stay lite and it will not boot into the BIOS still. Not sure if this mobo will do that with RAM removed though. Then when I take the 8 pin power cable out of the main GPU and plug it back in it will start up and boot fine with the same RAM installed. I am thinking this is a mobo or maybe the PSU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> yup me too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i think intel wont include a fan that is not capable of cooling its own CPU on stock. And i think no manufacturer will do that or else they will be bombard with rma, negative feedback or burnt chip because of their incapable stock fan. Im using a stock fan before switching to water cooling system. Intel Stock fan on stock clock is 45 on idle and 63 to 67c on max (real temp 370) and my environment is on 30c minimum (lol). that is actually high temp on stock but waay below threshold. So i can consider it not that good, but safe.


Haha, very true. Well I had to return my fan as it failed, and I just wanted a working stock fan lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ah ok. i dont quite understand that though because i only see one option for cpu voltage and i can only chose one type for adjusting. its either auto,offset or fixed. am i missing a setting somwere.? thanks for replying


Speaker nailed the response.
Basically go on manual.


----------



## morta

thanks for the advise i still have questions though., for example if i leave everything on auto exepet the offset and use - 0.005 save and exit. hardware moniter gives me 3 diffrent values on my vcore.and cpu z reports high voltage.



and this is not using any stress software to test the system. i thought 0.18 was sapost to be stock since thats the min value on hardware monitor. but why is it that the vcore is going higher then this value. and is being reported on cpuz as the max. isent 1.13 way to high for a standerd 3.5 / turbo 3.8ghz? sorry for the constant editing i figuerd this wold be a better way to explain things


----------



## madscientist03

Referign to my OP... http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4010#post_18939178

No luck

I took a spare hard drive and used it as a c: drive. I then disconnected my 1tb, then upgraded the f/w on my 60gb OCZ Vertex 3 to 2.25 then installed windows 7 on it. I installed chrome and all of the asus drivers and nvidia drivers I need. At this point I have now reconnected the 1tb drive and it will not recognize in bios with and without the SSD plugged in, nor in windows but i mean if it won't recognize in bios why would it in windows. So either the f/w fix did nothing or the drive is somehow unreadable yet it still spins up with the power connected to it. PS. it detects my 3tb external connected via usb 3.0 in bios and in windows. And 2-3 min boots no longer exist, they are fast boots again.

At this point i'm not sure if it's a mobo issue or a hard drive issue


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks for the advise i still have questions though., for example if i leave everything on auto exepet the offset and use - 0.005 save and exit. hardware moniter gives me 3 diffrent values on my vcore.and cpu z reports high voltage.
> 
> and this is not using any stress software to test the system. i thought 0.18 was sapost to be stock since thats the min value on hardware monitor. but why is it that the vcore is going higher then this value. and is being reported on cpuz as the max. isent 1.13 way to high for a standerd 3.5 / turbo 3.8ghz? sorry for the constant editing i figuerd this wold be a better way to explain things


Offset fluctuates. Again, you should start ocing on manual. And no 1.13 is normal really.

Refer to this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## spawn10459

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpEaKeRb0xXx*
> 
> *Spawn*, uhm can you verify if you're on stock? Try to hit F5 on bios to load default settings and then try to play games.. There's no reason for your computer to crash on stock. And probably the main problem is your PSU, your system is booting up but on certain activity and load it shut down, yeah? Probably your old PSU can't provide needed power to a certain load for your computer to work properly, so your system will shut down. Im 90% sure that your new psu will solve your problem.
> Also, did you update your bios? you might want to give it a shot.
> For the meantime, you can check your old PSU for any defects.. like bloated capacitors, damage cables, etc. if you spotted one, ill advice you not to use it anymore and just wait for your new PSU for it may damage your whole system.
> For water cooling or fan question. They're both great but it will depend on how you gonna use or OC your system. I prefer water cooling over fan just because we got a very eye catchy board. if you got the extra bucks and sometimes you just want to stare and appreciate the beauty of your board then go for the water cooling system. it'll give you a clearer view of your board. you just need to make sure you got the space for it.
> 3c to 5c difference between fan and water cooling is actually not that bad.
> You can go with corsair for water cooling system or Noctua for Fan. I can also advice Thermaltake extreme 2.0 its actually a good water cooler tho most people don't trust TT. you can do a bit if review if you want.
> Now if you wont do any OC'ng, stock CPU fan is enough.


thank you for that post speak. yes every thing is set to stock. nothing over clocked or any thing just installed and bam have had nothing put problems.
I do find it funny that my 700 waty PSU thats only about 2 years old doesnt work on this board but a PSU thats 7 to 8 years old runs it.

Also some thing new that i think is hard were releated is that when i log in to try and play SC2 i join a loby and then just sit there and i dont load. cant type or any thing. just kind of hangs up when entering the loby. or i do get lucky enough to start loading and then i just time out.


----------



## morta

thanks again for ur continue to explain things to me.i followed that guide but it dosent reely explain what the settings all do.and its not exactly the same as my bios. it ses to set ofset to auto but u told me auto is a big NO so i set it to -0.005 and it allso said to set cpu frequancy to 350 and i dont no what this setting is.reading the manual of my motherbord dosent make any sence to me as its all technical explenations that are not basic enough for me to understand so i left it at 300 and adjusted the other settings as it said in the guid but set my turbo clock to 40 thats just 2 notches up from the auto turbo . in bios under montering tab the cpu volt shows as +1.038 but my result with cpuz is alot higher. and the auss suite and hardware moniter are showing diffrent. is this normal?.i stil think that the voltage shouldent be this high. and i would try manual mode insted of offset but lookin online it ses offset is the preferd way of overclockin the ivy bridge on this asus board. though i understand a bit better now on how the offset works im still clules about why the voltage is higher then it should be.


----------



## isidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Is it affecting performance at all?


No, that's the weird thing, the system is 100% stable in prime95, gaming, whatching fullHD movies, no problems at all. The only issue is that random when i power the PC the CPU led stays on and the system reboots once, but after the reboot the os loads up.I'm stating to think maybe my PSU is starting to cause some issue, its a quality PSU, Cooler Master 620w modular, but it's a 4 year old PSU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> thank you for that post speak. yes every thing is set to stock. nothing over clocked or any thing just installed and bam have had nothing put problems.
> I do find it funny that my 700 waty PSU thats only about 2 years old doesnt work on this board but a PSU thats 7 to 8 years old runs it.
> Also some thing new that i think is hard were releated is that when i log in to try and play SC2 i join a loby and then just sit there and i dont load. cant type or any thing. just kind of hangs up when entering the loby. or i do get lucky enough to start loading and then i just time out.


Highly suggest checking it out. That's hardware related, be it psu or motherboard, one or both have to be changed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks again for ur continue to explain things to me.i followed that guide but it dosent reely explain what the settings all do.and its not exactly the same as my bios. it ses to set ofset to auto but u told me auto is a big NO so i set it to -0.005 and it allso said to set cpu frequancy to 350 and i dont no what this setting is.reading the manual of my motherbord dosent make any sence to me as its all technical explenations that are not basic enough for me to understand so i left it at 300 and adjusted the other settings as it said in the guid but set my turbo clock to 40 thats just 2 notches up from the auto turbo . in bios under montering tab the cpu volt shows as +1.038 but my result with cpuz is alot higher. and the auss suite and hardware moniter are showing diffrent. is this normal?.i stil think that the voltage shouldent be this high. and i would try manual mode insted of offset but lookin online it ses offset is the preferd way of overclockin the ivy bridge on this asus board. though i understand a bit better now on how the offset works im still clules about why the voltage is higher then it should be.


Ok copy my bios settings, in my signature with the voltage on manual and 1.25, and look for stability.
That's honestly what I can say. The guide covers pretty much everything, and helped me oc my pc properly.

If you're not confident nor know what you are doing, then I suggest not ocing.
You should read into it and know what you are doing before doing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> No, that's the weird thing, the system is 100% stable in prime95, gaming, whatching fullHD movies, no problems at all. The only issue is that random when i power the PC the CPU led stays on and the system reboots once, but after the reboot the os loads up.I'm stating to think maybe my PSU is starting to cause some issue, its a quality PSU, Cooler Master 620w modular, but it's a 4 year old PSU.


Have you looked what the cpu light means on Google?


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isidore*
> 
> No, that's the weird thing, the system is 100% stable in prime95, gaming, whatching fullHD movies, no problems at all. The only issue is that random when i power the PC the CPU led stays on and the system reboots once, but after the reboot the os loads up.I'm stating to think maybe my PSU is starting to cause some issue, its a quality PSU, Cooler Master 620w modular, but it's a 4 year old PSU.


It reboots once when it turns on every time?


----------



## morta

im such a dumb ass i posted in the wrong thread. thanks it makes sence to me now.


----------



## morta

sorry me again..this offset dont make any sence so im resorting to manual. would 1.115 volts be a safe start for 4.3 ghz?or can i try lower.if so what is the min resnoble value i could set it to to test. thanks


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madscientist03*
> 
> Referign to my OP... http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4010#post_18939178
> 
> No luck
> 
> I took a spare hard drive and used it as a c: drive. I then disconnected my 1tb, then upgraded the f/w on my 60gb OCZ Vertex 3 to 2.25 then installed windows 7 on it. I installed chrome and all of the asus drivers and nvidia drivers I need. At this point I have now reconnected the 1tb drive and it will not recognize in bios with and without the SSD plugged in, nor in windows but i mean if it won't recognize in bios why would it in windows. So either the f/w fix did nothing or the drive is somehow unreadable yet it still spins up with the power connected to it. PS. it detects my 3tb external connected via usb 3.0 in bios and in windows. And 2-3 min boots no longer exist, they are fast boots again.
> 
> At this point i'm not sure if it's a mobo issue or a hard drive issue


So the SSD now works, and the 3TB works, and the boot up is now fast - but the 1TB does not show up in BIOS anymore?

If so, then I'd think the 1TB has a problem - and your other problems are solved.

Maybe try the 1TB in another system if you can to verify. And let us know if we are following your progress correctly or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks again for ur continue to explain things to me.i followed that guide but it dosent reely explain what the settings all do.and its not exactly the same as my bios. it ses to set ofset to auto but u told me auto is a big NO so i set it to -0.005 and it allso said to set cpu frequancy to 350 and i dont no what this setting is.reading the manual of my motherbord dosent make any sence to me as its all technical explenations that are not basic enough for me to understand so i left it at 300 and adjusted the other settings as it said in the guid but set my turbo clock to 40 thats just 2 notches up from the auto turbo . in bios under montering tab the cpu volt shows as +1.038 but my result with cpuz is alot higher. and the auss suite and hardware moniter are showing diffrent. is this normal?.i stil think that the voltage shouldent be this high. and i would try manual mode insted of offset but lookin online it ses offset is the preferd way of overclockin the ivy bridge on this asus board. though i understand a bit better now on how the offset works im still clules about why the voltage is higher then it should be.


Hey *morta*, sorry you are having problems learning all the stuff to do overclocking, but if you keep at it you can learn it and it is fun.

As you have noted, there are some better threads to assist you though. Here are a couple of good ones on here.

This one has lots of good information to read through to get a better understanding of what is what and what your are doing:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end

This one has a good guide and has lots of active support for your questions:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## morta

thanks but i allready looked at these. i understand the process needed to overclock i just cant get my head around how this offset mode is sapost to works with my bios its doing my head in and i would prefer to do it this way as its sapost to be the preferd method. but it just dosent make any sence. all i want to do is keep the defult clock speed 3.5 and just incress the turbo clock to 44 keepig the offset on -0.005 to start with..but its not working propelry beacuse if i load defults and look in the montering tab the cpu voltage is at 0.984<< im guessing thats stock for this motherbord. and when i go into windows the vcore gose higher then this value BUT if i try to change the turbo clock from auto to 40 and keep the offset on - 0.005 the cpu voltage in the montering tab has changed from 0.984 to 1.038 and when in windows im gettin a higher vcore around 1.2 and when when i tyd 44 on the turbo beffor. it was at 1.42vcore max in hardware mointer..thats stupidly high. iv read around online about the i5 3570k and u should be able to get 4.2/4.3ghz on stock voltage. how am i spaost to keep stock voltage using the offset mode when i up the turbo? thats what i dont understand. im about to give up with offset and just go with manual since its the only way i can get a solid voltage when i adjust the turbo clock


----------



## Sujeto 1

Hello guys, trying to know how RELIABLE is the ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 motherboard and how good is their customer RMA service (I hear too many bad stuff about this one). is one on my checklist for a new incoming gaming rig im building. Any techincal issue that forced you to RMA it? Thank you very much.

things i already have>

Case: Storm Enforcer Cooler master
SSD: 512 GB Crucial M4
1 tb Caviar Black
Antec High Current Pro HCP-850W


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Hello guys, trying to know how RELIABLE is the ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 motherboard and how good is their customer RMA service (I hear too many bad stuff about this one). is one on my checklist for a new incoming gaming rig im building. Any techincal issue that forced you to RMA it? Thank you very much.
> things i already have>
> Case: Storm Enforcer Cooler master
> SSD: 512 GB Crucial M4
> 1 tb Caviar Black
> Antec High Current Pro HCP-850W


RMA?
Asus are the WORST company to deal with - I mean they don't even have an RMA section for COMPONENTS - they tell you to go via the reseller that you used, and refuse to help you - and when they do try and help you, a 5 year old child will know more than "asus specialists".

Long story short - where you bought it from, is where it would be RMAed from (hopefully)

As for fail rate - a few recently have reported problems, and thus raises eyebrows of the reliability of this board.
Personally, I'm lucky to have no problems HARDWARE wise, but software wise....where's my shotgun at? I want to blow the heads off each and every single software "specialist" at asus for creating crap software, that's often unreliable, and causes services in services.msc to not start up thus slowing down your start-up time for no reason - stupid asus.

Sorry for that...rant over.
Long story short:
-Hope to have no problems
-You'll have to RMA via the company you bought it from
-Don't install a single bit of software, from the disc or site - only drivers.


----------



## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> RMA?
> Asus are the WORST company to deal with - I mean they don't even have an RMA section for COMPONENTS - they tell you to go via the reseller that you used, and refuse to help you - and when they do try and help you, a 5 year old child will know more than "asus specialists".
> Long story short - where you bought it from, is where it would be RMAed from (hopefully)
> As for fail rate - a few recently have reported problems, and thus raises eyebrows of the reliability of this board.
> Personally, I'm lucky to have no problems HARDWARE wise, but software wise....where's my shotgun at? I want to blow the heads off each and every single software "specialist" at asus for creating crap software, that's often unreliable, and causes services in services.msc to not start up thus slowing down your start-up time for no reason - stupid asus.
> Sorry for that...rant over.
> Long story short:
> -Hope to have no problems
> -You'll have to RMA via the company you bought it from
> -Don't install a single bit of software, from the disc or site - only drivers.


Thanks i better stay away from this brand so, something i trully feel bad because i love the sabertooth looking, and my current rig is made of Asus, but i cant allow me the risk. Any other good brand and model instead?


----------



## chillidog

did some overclocking on the 3750k got it at 4.6 with 1.32v with temps max out at 75 on one core others at 70oc.. this was with a offset of 0.020.
stress test with aida64 for 1 1/2 hrs ( is that long enough)? is it worth just uping the multiplier to 47 leaving the voltage at 1.32v as it is?
can anyone give their veiws on this pls


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Thanks i better stay away from this brand so, something i trully feel bad because i love the sabertooth looking, and my current rig is made of Asus, but i cant allow me the risk. Any other good brand and model instead?


Asrock, gigabite, msi.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> did some overclocking on the 3750k got it at 4.6 with 1.32v with temps max out at 75 on one core others at 70oc.. this was with a offset of 0.020.
> stress test with aida64 for 1 1/2 hrs ( is that long enough)? is it worth just uping the multiplier to 47 leaving the voltage at 1.32v as it is?
> can anyone give their veiws on this pls


I suggest prime 95 first.


----------



## spawn10459

Guys i have an update.

I reformated and slowly installed ASUS drivers. apperently some of the drivers are bad and was causing my cmputer to crash.
the rader app was the first one i ran into that casued games to crash.


----------



## morta

i herd that using prime 95 can damage the cpu.i dident want to risk this so i tryed using aida64. i went along with the manual method and used 1.120v in bios with a turbo of 43.I ran aida 64 stress test and during the test i was gettin slow system respons and graphic artifacts on my screen.asus suite allso pop'd up a warning window +12v 0.000 but i dunno what that ment..i thought it was just cpu temp and vcore i need to look out for.and my max temp during the test was 72c and max load in HWM was 1.13 volts. but my pc suddenly swiched itself of after 2 1/2 hours into the stress test. and because my pc just turnd itself of i dident get any bsod so i couldent refer to the codes to see what whent wrong. I then could not turn my pc on at first. It was dead.so i swiched of the psu and unpluged it for 5 seconds then plugd it in again and switchd the psu back on and turnd it on and its workign again.i set system defults again. anyone no what caused this? was i close with this voltage or not. first time trying this.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Guys i have an update.
> I reformated and slowly installed ASUS drivers. apperently some of the drivers are bad and was causing my cmputer to crash.
> the rader app was the first one i ran into that casued games to crash.


And I did say...yet again, that asus' software sucks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> i herd that using prime 95 can damage the cpu.i dident want to risk this so i tryed using aida64. i went along with the manual method and used 1.120v in bios with a turbo of 43.I ran aida 64 stress test and during the test i was gettin slow system respons and graphic artifacts on my screen.asus suite allso pop'd up a warning window +12v 0.000 but i dunno what that ment..i thought it was just cpu temp and vcore i need to look out for.and my max temp during the test was 72c and max load in HWM was 1.13 volts. but my pc suddenly swiched itself of after 2 1/2 hours into the stress test. and because my pc just turnd itself of i dident get any bsod so i couldent refer to the codes to see what whent wrong. I then could not turn my pc on at first. It was dead.so i swiched of the psu and unpluged it for 5 seconds then plugd it in again and switchd the psu back on and turnd it on and its workign again.i set system defults again. anyone no what caused this? was i close with this voltage or not. first time trying this.


Whatever program that is - I haven't used it.
I suggest p95 - that's the one that gives you high temps and really stresses your PC out.
That's only how you'll find to get a stable OC - i also suggest bluescreenview - the program - your problem is probably vcore related.


----------



## morta

well im going on what iv researchd online and it said prime 95 can damage the cpu. aida64 is the recomend strees software from intel .and asus i would rather be safe the sorry incase this is true. considering im not an expert the last thing i want to do is damage my chip. watch this video and skip to 3:55


----------



## chillidog

well am a bit confused here i waited till all programs is settled and then taken these shots at the same time one program is saying somthing diff : aida 64 showing cpu clock is 1600.0mhz and then cpu-z showing 4600.09mhz this is when no progams running



i also seen on youtube a guy called jj from asus saying that aida64 is better for stress testing than prime95 for the ivy bridge cpu's? who do we believe in? which stress program is the right one to use? which is the right progam for telling the right temps for testing


----------



## morta

0.9v! at 4.6ghz how come when i tryd to do this stress test i was at 1.20 on 4.3ghz and it shut down my pc?


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> sorry me again..this offset dont make any sence so im resorting to manual. would 1.115 volts be a safe start for 4.3 ghz?or can i try lower.if so what is the min resnoble value i could set it to to test. thanks


every each of us got a different chip. So i guess no one can advise the exact amount of CPU Voltage you need to use to have a stable 4.3ghz. But im not telling you that you're wrong, you can actually use that as your initial margin for trial and error. if it boots up, try to run IBT or Prime 95, if it crash down, adjust again by 0.005 add or subtract until you have a stable OS.

Offset setting is desired because, It just lessen or heighten your default CPU voltage through CPU offset voltage, you dont need to change default voltage. It literally act as a "gate valve" of your CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Hello guys, trying to know how RELIABLE is the ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 motherboard and how good is their customer RMA service (I hear too many bad stuff about this one). is one on my checklist for a new incoming gaming rig im building. Any techincal issue that forced you to RMA it? Thank you very much.
> things i already have>
> Case: Storm Enforcer Cooler master
> SSD: 512 GB Crucial M4
> 1 tb Caviar Black
> Antec High Current Pro HCP-850W


Like how totally dubbed describe ASUS CS or RMA service, they are the worst. But lucky for me coz ive been using Asus brand since i got my first laptop and never had a problem. That is enough for me to trust this brand so i got this board. I guess my luck is still on this brand coz i never experience any fault with my board. Just my plain experience no fanboy comment.

also: we got Asus service center few minutes away from my place, so i think ill never have a problem with this board. (hope so)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> did some overclocking on the 3750k got it at 4.6 with 1.32v with temps max out at 75 on one core others at 70oc.. this was with a offset of 0.020.
> stress test with aida64 for 1 1/2 hrs ( is that long enough)? is it worth just uping the multiplier to 47 leaving the voltage at 1.32v as it is?
> can anyone give their veiws on this pls


8hrs of stress test are the standard and 1 1/2 hrs is way below the standard. If you're on 4.6ghz with 1.32v and is stable with a temperature not exceeding 80c then you're ok. I suggest you use Prime95 or Intel Burn test for stress test. Those application will stress and push your chip to the limit in exchange for accurate result. The only reason your chip will be damage using those application is if you got a bad cpu cooler, not properly seated, no thermal paste or not properly applied and your CPU runs hot enough to burn it. So running test even on stock is necessary.

You can determine that you have a properly seated and working perfectly cooler if your CPU temp is close enough or just few Celsius ahead of your room temp. in exemption of course with below zero coolers







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spawn10459*
> 
> Guys i have an update.
> I reformated and slowly installed ASUS drivers. apperently some of the drivers are bad and was causing my cmputer to crash.
> the rader app was the first one i ran into that casued games to crash.


you can remove and uninstall all asus applications except for necessary drivers. i didn't find them necessary to be honest.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> well am a bit confused here i waited till all programs is settled and then taken these shots at the same time one program is saying somthing diff : aida 64 showing cpu clock is 1600.0mhz and then cpu-z showing 4600.09mhz this is when no progams running
> 
> i also seen on youtube a guy called jj from asus saying that aida64 is better for stress testing than prime95 for the ivy bridge cpu's? who do we believe in? which stress program is the right one to use? which is the right progam for telling the right temps for testing


CPU-Z generally tells you your cpu speed on full load, or its capacity. Meaning that your CPU can run 4.6ghz at full speed.
Now with aida 64, it is telling you your CPU running speed in real time. Meaning your CPU's current speed. Possible that it is running with just 5% or less load so very reasonable that you can only see 1600mhz instead of full load speed of 4.6ghz.

Now regarding on which application you will be using on stress test. There are applications that will 100% stress your hardware without exemption or rule, that is a hundred percent you can get accurate result. Some application or "safer" application can stress you CPU to a certain level, once exceeded itll prompt you to discontinue the test even without reaching you hardware's full potential. result can be different from what you should be expecting.

Also, you can try to update your bios. the latest bios upto now is 1708

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 0.9v! at 4.6ghz how come when i tryd to do this stress test i was at 1.20 on 4.3ghz and it shut down my pc?


The only reason your pc will shut down, hangs up, crash or BSOD during stress test is because you're CPU voltage is not supplying enough power to compensate with the load. Solution is to increase your CPU voltage, rerun test, if system still crashing, do the cycle again till it becomes stable.
Also other things to consider is your DRAM voltage, and temperature..
If you over clock and add some value on your CPU voltage, you should do that also on your Dram voltage and GPU (tho i find GPU to be optional, depends on your card).

0.9v at 4.6ghz? i guess this is just the result of cpuid? cpu-z? 0.9v is the lowest value that a CPU can run at full stock under load. So i guess you just over look that value.


----------



## morta

I dont want to overclock my ram as its at its stock setting allready witch is 1600mhz . as for my GPU its a 7970 vapor x .so i guess aplying more cpu volt is all i have to do right?i still dont get the offset. so i use manual. allso when thay say max volts that shoud be used within safe limits. dose that refer to the value u set in bios..or is it refering to the max load? beacuse when i booted into windows on auto settings but adjusting the turbo clock to 44 i was getting a value of 1.42 in HWM under max. and from what i gather 1.5 is the absoult max voltage within safe limits..but lookin at the youtube video i posted earlyer regarding aida64 thay state u shouldent go over 1.35 i would of thought 4.4 is a small overclock and dosent need so much voltage. do i just have a bad chip??


----------



## Am3Y

Guys I Am Facing this problem from start...

M getting a shutdown issue..
as i click the shutdown option , it goes in sleep mode...
Iz there any bios settings which iz causing this problem ??
or My mobo iz faulty ??
Plzz reply guys...

See this video ull understant better(PLZZ ignore the snoring Noice .. As My bro Was Sleeping while recording







) --->>



Power Settings-->>

*Guys Help Plzz*


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks but i allready looked at these. i understand the process needed to overclock i just cant get my head around how this offset mode is sapost to works with my bios its doing my head in and i would prefer to do it this way as its sapost to be the preferd method. but it just dosent make any sence. all i want to do is keep the defult clock speed 3.5 and just incress the turbo clock to 44 keepig the offset on -0.005 to start with..but its not working propelry beacuse if i load defults and look in the montering tab the cpu voltage is at 0.984<< im guessing thats stock for this motherbord. and when i go into windows the vcore gose higher then this value BUT if i try to change the turbo clock from auto to 40 and keep the offset on - 0.005 the cpu voltage in the montering tab has changed from 0.984 to 1.038 and when in windows im gettin a higher vcore around 1.2 and when when i tyd 44 on the turbo beffor. it was at 1.42vcore max in hardware mointer..thats stupidly high. iv read around online about the i5 3570k and u should be able to get 4.2/4.3ghz on stock voltage. how am i spaost to keep stock voltage using the offset mode when i up the turbo? thats what i dont understand. im about to give up with offset and just go with manual since its the only way i can get a solid voltage when i adjust the turbo clock


To get correct stock voltage at stock frequency, run stress test program such as Intel Burn Test or AIDA64. Only need to run them less than a minute to get the correct VCORE when under load. I prefer CPU-Z when checking VCORE.

If the offset -0.005 still giving high VCORE, you can try lowering it to -0.010, -0.015 & so on. Every time you change the offset, run a quick stress test using IBT & write down the VCORE. Continue reducing the offset until your computer not stable when running IBT or any stress test program. Then set to last stable offset & run longer stress test program to see if your computer really stable at that offset. Not all chips are the same, some need higher voltage than other to run stable at the same frequency.

Prime95 shouldn't damage your computer. Intel put several safety features in their CPUs which can prevent the CPU from damage, such as PROCHOT# & THERMTRIP#. For example, if the temperature is too high, PROCHOT# signal will be engaged & CPU will throttling down until the temperature in safe range again. If somehow temperature still climbing too high, THERMTRIP# signal will be activated in which the CPU will stop all execution (i.e. shutdown) to prevent catastrophic overheating. You can check in Intel datasheet, they set THERMTRIP# to 130C. TJmax for 3570k is 105C which means if the CPU running according to Intel specification, it will not throttling when under load as long as the temperature is less than 105C. The only thing I can think off right now that can kill a CPU is voltage too high or you have crappy PSU with low quality components. I've seen CPUs killed when voltage is too high. Crappy PSU can blow when push to their rated wattage & at the same time may killed the motherboard and other components too. If you have good quality PSU then there is nothing to worry about.

If you don't want to run Prime95, IBT & AIDA64 should be good alternative. And yes, AIDA64 is recommended than Prime95 since the first generation Intel Core i processors because it test specific function (in the CPU) that Prime95 doesn't touch. Well at least that what I read....


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> I dont want to overclock my ram as its at its stock setting allready witch is 1600mhz . as for my GPU its a 7970 vapor x .so i guess aplying more cpu volt is all i have to do right?i still dont get the offset. so i use manual. allso when thay say max volts that shoud be used within safe limits. dose that refer to the value u set in bios..or is it refering to the max load? beacuse when i booted into windows on auto settings but adjusting the turbo clock to 44 i was getting a value of 1.42 in HWM under max. and from what i gather 1.5 is the absoult max voltage within safe limits..but lookin at the youtube video i posted earlyer regarding aida64 thay state u shouldent go over 1.35 i would of thought 4.4 is a small overclock and dosent need so much voltage. do i just have a bad chip??


Yes, try to increase your CPU voltage, don't lose hope, normally if a system successfully boots up, you are just +0.020 CPU voltage away from your current configuration that crashes to be stable. So try to increase your CPU voltage with 0.005 increment.

No, we have the same chip and we both have the standard chip. i can reach 4.5 ghz with 1.42v CPU voltage while others can do 4.5ghz with just 1.22v. So i stay at 4.2ghz under 1.22v with 64c max temp on full load and its stable. That's enough for me coz 4.2ghz is a decent OC already.

You shouldn't go over 1.5 CPU VOLTAGE or you shouldn't even go near to that value just to be safe. If your current configuration is giving you value that is close to 1.5v try to lessen your multiplier or lessen your OC.

Alright, with regards to your ram. What "DRAM voltage" is it running? look at the digits before the "auto" box.
Is it 1.5xx volt? That is the standard. If thats the case then you dont need to change anything, what im saying is if its lesser than 1.5v you can try to manually set it to 1.5v. Remember that if you added some value to your CPU,you should also do that to your DRAM. Just to make sure that your problem is not caused by your under voltage ram. But if you manage to solve your problem without changing your DRAM, then its fine.

Also, you don't need to change your Memory Frequency to OC your RAM. Just adjust DRAM voltage.

Good luck on your fine tuning


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> well im going on what iv researchd online and it said prime 95 can damage the cpu. aida64 is the recomend strees software from intel .and asus i would rather be safe the sorry incase this is true. considering im not an expert the last thing i want to do is damage my chip. watch this video and skip to 3:55


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> well am a bit confused here i waited till all programs is settled and then taken these shots at the same time one program is saying somthing diff : aida 64 showing cpu clock is 1600.0mhz and then cpu-z showing 4600.09mhz this is when no progams running
> 
> i also seen on youtube a guy called jj from asus saying that aida64 is better for stress testing than prime95 for the ivy bridge cpu's? who do we believe in? which stress program is the right one to use? which is the right progam for telling the right temps for testing


Well the lads above me pretty much sum everything up.
I'm telling you how to get stable and how to properly test it.
No program will damage your chip, unless you aren't cooling it properly. Yet another sign of asus being idiots - this time publicly.
If you want a stable oc, you should run it through a stressful test. If you want a casual test, and be unstable, then go ahead for it.

Long story short: do as you please, but my advice and a lot of people on this forums, who have actually overcloked their systems, unlike that asus guy, will tell you p95 is the application to use.

I also just looked at the video, and just at that bit, even though the guy means good, he is realistically saying you'll never pass 4.8ghz of an oc, as you don't want to go over that voltage. If you look here, you'll see a few people going over, and having no problems - again they have insane cooling.

As for the power thing, and cpu draw - that's based on Windows power options.
Set that to high performance and you won't have that downclocking.


----------



## morta

ok my ram is running at 1.55 you say if i can boot into windows at a sertin voltage it meens im not far from being stable ..but this is what i dont understand on my sabertooth bord and why using the offset method to overclock scars me beacuse i tested using the auto on the bord but just changing the turbo to 40 and the offset to -0.005 .and when i do this it boots into windows and gives me max vcore on 1.2 without stress test software..so why is it that i managed to boot into windows on manule mode with a voltage of 1.12 and survived aida64 for 2 1/2 hours..1.12 on manual and 1.2 on autof with offset is a big incress in voltage. lets say i wanted to try and boot into windows at 4.5ghz using the offset method...how am i gona no if its safe or not if it dosent tell me in bios what voltage its going to set itself to. so far manual seems the only safe way i can test overclockin beacuse of this.


----------



## chillidog

TOTALLY Dubbed
Quote:


> 8hrs of stress test are the standard and 1 1/2 hrs is way below the standard. If you're on 4.6ghz with 1.32v and is stable with a temperature not exceeding 80c then you're ok. I suggest you use Prime95 or Intel Burn test for stress test. Those application will stress and push your chip to the limit in exchange for accurate result. The only reason your chip will be damage using those application is if you got a bad cpu cooler, not properly seated, no thermal paste or not properly applied and your CPU runs hot enough to burn it. So running test even on stock is necessary.
> You can determine that you have a properly seated and working perfectly cooler if your CPU temp is close enough or just few Celsius ahead of your room temp. in exemption of course with below zero coolers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> you can remove and uninstall all asus applications except for necessary drivers. i didn't find them necessary to be honest.
> CPU-Z generally tells you your cpu speed on full load, or its capacity. Meaning that your CPU can run 4.6ghz at full speed.
> Now with aida 64, it is telling you your CPU running speed in real time. Meaning your CPU's current speed. Possible that it is running with just 5% or less load so very reasonable that you can only see 1600mhz instead of full load speed of 4.6ghz.
> Now regarding on which application you will be using on stress test. There are applications that will 100% stress your hardware without exemption or rule, that is a hundred percent you can get accurate result. Some application or "safer" application can stress you CPU to a certain level, once exceeded itll prompt you to discontinue the test even without reaching you hardware's full potential. result can be different from what you should be expecting.
> Also, you can try to update your bios. the latest bios upto now is 1708


what am trying to say is that even with aida64 not turned on or any other program just cpu-z with nothing running in the back ground it still shows the core speed at 4600mhz and the vcore at 0.944.for some reason core speed not ramping down
is this some sort of a glitch/bug in cpu-z software.
my overclocking set is by following your guilde with some minor adjustments and also the bios is up to date.

but just aida 64 running the vcore and the multipleirs will ramp up and down i hope you can see where am coming from


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok my ram is running at 1.55 you say if i can boot into windows at a sertin voltage it meens im not far from being stable ..but this is what i dont understand on my sabertooth bord and why using the offset method to overclock scars me beacuse i tested using the auto on the bord but just changing the turbo to 40 and the offset to -0.005 .and when i do this it boots into windows and gives me max vcore on 1.2 without stress test software..so why is it that i managed to boot into windows on manule mode with a voltage of 1.12 and survived aida64 for 2 1/2 hours..1.12 on manual and 1.2 on autof with offset is a big incress in voltage. lets say i wanted to try and boot into windows at 4.5ghz using the offset method...how am i gona no if its safe or not if it dosent tell me in bios what voltage its going to set itself to. so far manual seems the only safe way i can test overclockin beacuse of this.


if you follow totally dubbed guide you can't go wrong,but in his guide he has got offset mode to + i had to change mine to -0.20 with multi at 46 with vcore 1.32v:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok my ram is running at 1.55 you say if i can boot into windows at a sertin voltage it meens im not far from being stable ..but this is what i dont understand on my sabertooth bord and why using the offset method to overclock scars me beacuse i tested using the auto on the bord but just changing the turbo to 40 and the offset to -0.005 .and when i do this it boots into windows and gives me max vcore on 1.2 without stress test software..so why is it that i managed to boot into windows on manule mode with a voltage of 1.12 and survived aida64 for 2 1/2 hours..1.12 on manual and 1.2 on autof with offset is a big incress in voltage. lets say i wanted to try and boot into windows at 4.5ghz using the offset method...how am i gona no if its safe or not if it dosent tell me in bios what voltage its going to set itself to. so far manual seems the only safe way i can test overclockin beacuse of this.


One last time mate...
Start on manual then work to offset.
Until you don't have a stable manual, getting your stable offset will be a long and annoying process - unless you guess correctly.
Stable manual is 12hrs+ of prime 95 with no errors or stops.

Also you can copy and paste my BIOS - but every single chip is different, and more so your parts aren't identical to mine - ie ram might need more or less voltage, that what I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> TOTALLY Dubbed
> what am trying to say is that even with aida64 not turned on or any other program just cpu-z with nothing running in the back ground it still shows the core speed at 4600mhz and the vcore at 0.944.for some reason core speed not ramping down
> is this some sort of a glitch/bug in cpu-z software.
> my overclocking set is by following your guilde with some minor adjustments and also the bios is up to date.
> but just aida 64 running the vcore and the multipleirs will ramp up and down i hope you can see where am coming from


ah right - yeah it could well be a glitch in the software.
What you should bear in mind is that without any load, naturally your speed (ghz) will drop (as long as the windows power options are set to balanced)
So, if you check on idle, it should be fluctuating between 1.6ghz to 4.5ghz for example.
Some programs however, no matter what your current speed is will display your max speed (ie 4.5ghz).

Good programs to determine your actual speed:
Core temp
Real temp
CPU-Z

Hope that helps








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> if you follow totally dubbed guide you can't go wrong,but in his guide he has got offset mode to + i had to change mine to -0.20 with multi at 46 with vcore 1.32v:thumb:


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok my ram is running at 1.55 you say if i can boot into windows at a sertin voltage it meens im not far from being stable ..but this is what i dont understand on my sabertooth bord and why using the offset method to overclock scars me beacuse i tested using the auto on the bord but just changing the turbo to 40 and the offset to -0.005 .and when i do this it boots into windows and gives me max vcore on 1.2 without stress test software..so why is it that i managed to boot into windows on manule mode with a voltage of 1.12 and survived aida64 for 2 1/2 hours..1.12 on manual and 1.2 on autof with offset is a big incress in voltage. lets say i wanted to try and boot into windows at 4.5ghz using the offset method...how am i gona no if its safe or not if it dosent tell me in bios what voltage its going to set itself to. so far manual seems the only safe way i can test overclockin beacuse of this.


First, telling us what application you use to see those value will help alot, just to be sure were on the same boat.
I want to stress this out, Using AUTO on your CPU Voltage and CPU OFFSET VOLTAGE is a big NO. especially if you're not on STOCK. It'll give you voltage more than what is needed and most of the time MORE than the safe limit and that scares me alot. MORE than what is needed means hotter CPU and more power consumption.
So manual is safer than auto and using CPU offset voltage is better and easier.

Your main problem mate is you don't know your default CPU voltage or what CPU voltage to use. Like totally Dubbed said, *"do it on manual first"*. Try to set your CPU voltage to what ever voltage you desire (try 1.25v if you are going 4.5ghz), i have set mine at 1.3v (that is middle value coz ive been testing my system from 4.2ghz to 4.5ghz) and that is the default voltage your system is going to use, whether it is sufficient, or not, that will be your DEFAULT CPU Voltage. If it boots up and pass the test for minimum of 8hrs then it is stable. But were not done yet, *that is far from fine tuned system,* you just set your CPU voltage to where your system can properly do its task even on full load, in short you just overclocked your CPU. It might be more than what is needed to run your system on 4.6ghz so *NOW* you will be using CPU Offset voltage to lessen that DEFAULT CPU voltage, that'll save you from constant changing your Default CPU Voltage. Now for example, If your system is running at 4.6ghz under 1.3v and pass all the test for 8hrs and you think it is stable, that manual CPU voltage that you input is sufficient enough or possible that it is more than enough. So you will be using "-" and lessen that voltage till you find that sweet spot where your system is running smoothly on full load with lesser voltage. how to do that?

you have 1.3v, use "-" sign for cpu offset voltage, click the box and hit positive sign on your keyboard, it'll give you the value of 0.005v. So 1.3v minus 0.005v will give you, 1.295 CPU Voltage. Run test, if still stable, repeat the process while increasing your CPU offset voltage. Now if your system became unstable, go back to the last value of your CPU offset voltage where your system runs smoothly. Now your system is OC'ed and fine tuned.

Now just in case that you input 1.1v manually to be your Default CPU voltage. And you want to over clock to 4.6ghz, that is most likely insufficient. Possible that your system wont boot up, crash down, hangs up or BSOD. SO instead of changing this 1.1v value, just use CPU Offset voltage. Use "+" sign, click the offset box, then key in some value or if you have the patience of a NUN then do it on 0.005 increment then run test. Example, 1.1v "+" 0.100 *cpu offset voltage*, it'll give you 1.2 *CPU Voltage*. Fine tune your system to just what voltage is needed.

Short story.
that is how offsetting works
Know your CPU from top to bottom.
Knowing and setting your Default CPU voltage is necessary in OC'ng
OC'ng is very easy, just put some value on your CPU voltage, if it works fine then you're done... But fine tuning is a very different story, it takes alot of time and patience.


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> TOTALLY Dubbed
> what am trying to say is that even with aida64 not turned on or any other program just cpu-z with nothing running in the back ground it still shows the core speed at 4600mhz and the vcore at 0.944.for some reason core speed not ramping down
> is this some sort of a glitch/bug in cpu-z software.
> my overclocking set is by following your guilde with some minor adjustments and also the bios is up to date.
> but just aida 64 running the vcore and the multipleirs will ramp up and down i hope you can see where am coming from


cpu-z is showing your maximun speed even tho you're under load, its not ramping down. Mine also got that issue.







i just think it was meant to give maximum speed details, not the real time. Im just using cpu-z to check on my vcore, i consider it to be the most accurate with regards to vcore details.
Im using RealTemp to check on speed and HWiNFO64 basically to check on everything.


----------



## isidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> It reboots once when it turns on every time?


Not every time, it's random..most of the time it boots up properly.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

+Repped both kizwan & SpEaKeRb0xXx, for both of your on-going support and detailed explanation to others.
Keep up the great work lads.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Guys I Am Facing this problem from start...
> M getting a shutdown issue..
> as i click the shutdown option , it goes in sleep mode...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Iz there any bios settings which iz causing this problem ??
> or My mobo iz faulty ??
> Plzz reply guys...


Could be windows 8 related mate...not quite sure why it is doing that.
What BIOS you on?
Try updating it to the latest.


----------



## Brenton

Hi all,

Just built a new system over the holidays with this board and I love it!

Case: Cooler Master Haf-X
Motherboard: Asus Z77 Sabertooth
Pocessor: Intel core i7 3770k (@4.7)
Ram: 16gb(2x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 (9,9,9,27)
CPU Cooling: Corsair H-100
Graphics Cards: (2x) MSI GTX680 Lightning (sli)
Power Supply: Corsair 1200AX
SSD's: (2x) OCZ Vector 256gb (raid0)
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1tb

The gear, pre-build:


Some Benchmarks:


This seems like a great site with some very helpful people!


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brenton*
> 
> Hi all,
> Just built a new system over the holidays with this board and I love it!
> Case: Cooler Master Haf-X
> Motherboard: Asus Z77 Sabertooth
> Pocessor: Intel core i7 3770k (@4.7)
> Ram: 16gb(2x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite 1866 (9,9,9,27)
> CPU Cooling: Corsair H-100
> Graphics Cards: (2x) MSI GTX680 Lightning (sli)
> Power Supply: Corsair 1200AX
> SSD's: (2x) OCZ Vector 256gb (raid0)
> HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1tb
> The gear, pre-build:
> 
> Some Benchmarks:
> 
> This seems like a great site with some very helpful people!










welcome to the thread mate! you got a very good system


----------



## Am3Y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Could be windows 8 related mate...not quite sure why it is doing that.
> What BIOS you on?
> Try updating it to the latest.


Dude I had Dat prob with Win7 also...
Done Everything Even Flashed the new bios...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3Y*
> 
> Dude I had Dat prob with Win7 also...
> Done Everything Even Flashed the new bios...


Then must be board related somehow.
Try resetting the bios - CMOS, and try updating all drivers. If all fails, then RMA the board is needed.
At least I think it is board related.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brenton*
> 
> Hi all,
> *Graphics Cards: (2x) MSI GTX680 Lightning (sli)*
> !


CASH MONEY right there.
Nice build.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> well am a bit confused here i waited till all programs is settled and then taken these shots at the same time one program is saying somthing diff : aida 64 showing cpu clock is 1600.0mhz and then cpu-z showing 4600.09mhz this is when no progams running
> 
> 
> 
> i also seen on youtube a guy called jj from asus saying that aida64 is better for stress testing than prime95 for the ivy bridge cpu's? who do we believe in? which stress program is the right one to use? which is the right progam for telling the right temps for testing


On the diff in cpu freq, with speedstep on the cpu will vary clock according to usage. At idle it should go to 1600, but will sometimes go up when background programs run. No need to worry about that.

On the confusion concerning prime95 and can that program damage a system there is answer. What damages a cpu is voltage and high temps. If prime95, or any program, runs at too high of a voltage and at too high of a temp, then it _can_ damage a cpu.

That is not a problem particular to prime95 though, only that since prime95 is a longer term stability program if someone does have their vcore and temps too high, then it runs those high vcores and temps for a long time. That is not a problem with that program though, but a problem with the operator who does not know what they are doing.

So, prime95 is a very good stability checking program that OC'ers have used for years and still do. If you monitor your vcore and temps it will not hurt anything, but instead provide you with information concerning your system stability. It is one of the better programs for doing that.

Do not worry about the video as we OC'ers have all seen it already, and laughed about it after it was made, only sad that it still confuses people trying to learn how to OC with its confusing half-truth.


----------



## Solonowarion

I have been reading through this thread trying to figure my ram. First post it showed up with 16 gbs at 1600. I have G. Skill sniper 1866 ram. I was trying to set to 1866 but wouldnt work. I switched some ram aroun and now its only showing 8gbs. I have tried many combinations. I will put a dimm in b2 and will post with 4 gb. I will put another one in b1 and will post with 4gb. Then I will put just one in b1 and it will post with 4gb. every slot will recognize a dimm. I have tried it with bios 1504 and 1708, not yet 1616.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> On the diff in cpu freq, with speedstep on the cpu will vary clock according to usage. At idle it should go to 1600, but will sometimes go up when background programs run. No need to worry about that.
> On the confusion concerning prime95 and can that program damage a system there is answer. What damages a cpu is voltage and high temps. If prime95, or any program, runs at too high of a voltage and at too high of a temp, then it _can_ damage a cpu.
> That is not a problem particular to prime95 though, only that since prime95 is a longer term stability program if someone does have their vcore and temps too high, then it runs those high vcores and temps for a long time. That is not a problem with that program though, but a problem with the operator who does not know what they are doing.
> So, prime95 is a very good stability checking program that OC'ers have used for years and still do. If you monitor your vcore and temps it will not hurt anything, but instead provide you with information concerning your system stability. It is one of the better programs for doing that.
> Do not worry about the video as we OC'ers have all seen it already, and laughed about it after it was made, only sad that it still confuses people trying to learn how to OC with its confusing half-truth.


haha loved the last bit of the comment







!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I have been reading through this thread trying to figure my ram. First post it showed up with 16 gbs at 1600. I have G. Skill sniper 1866 ram. I was trying to set to 1866 but wouldnt work. I switched some ram aroun and now its only showing 8gbs. I have tried many combinations. I will put a dimm in b2 and will post with 4 gb. I will put another one in b1 and will post with 4gb. Then I will put just one in b1 and it will post with 4gb. every slot will recognize a dimm. I have tried it with bios 1504 and 1708, not yet 1616.


Someone else had the problem, and changed their board...:/


----------



## OcSlave

Hi,
Has anybody had stability issues on the intel 6gbs ports and raid 0 ssd?

Spec
sigrig below
Asus sabertooth z77 and 3770k using intel 6gbs ports
8gb Crucial smart tracers 1866mhz.
Intel Rapid Start Technology Software V2.1.0.1002 + newer drivers

System is rock solid oc'd, have allso tried a few new instals at default settings.

First it was hard to get the Intel raid controller to work, seems the bios i was using was unstable ( found out later on ).

It eventually showed and i was able to raid my 2 ssd's and procceed to instaling windows.
First time out of windows i had bluescreen and the OS would'nt load.

Formatted in windows installer and instaled again.
This time farcry 3 worked ect, later on i tried my wheel with a game, the wheel would crash the games, later games would'nt start followed by steam noonger working aswell as some otther apps, somethings still worked.

Formatted again this time nothing would work hardly, flash would'nt install, steam installed but would'nt start ect.

Tryed to switch to non raid mode in bios to test the new ssd out but could'nt get rid of raid even though i was on ahci in bios.

Tryed a new bios and the raid when enables disabled works everytime.

Over the course of 12 hours i formatted around 13 times, wether that was to individual ssd or to raid and with new bios, issue's still persisted and as i'd put loads of hours into it with issues i had to forget it before i blew up.

So i had to just have my new ssd's on there own port and none raid which works perfect on the new ssd as it has Os on it.

I've never used raid so have no clue what was happening, anybody any idea's

Thankyou


----------



## Clam Slammer

Got a mondo major problem. Need solid advice.

So, installing a second 680 and a 212+ on my lucky friends computer. 680 instal is straightforward, all goes well. BUT NO! Rig wont display video, no bios. *Red light on CPU is solid.* Is there a short somewhere? Is CPU damaged? What should I check? Has anyone had this problem before?

Tried:
Bios reset
RAM OK (Ram light was blinking, at least fixed that)
Taking one 680 out
Trying CPU fan on different mobo ports.

Specs:
i7 2600k
Asus sabertooth Z77
12 GB Corsair DDR3 1333
One/ two GTX 680s 2GB EVGA classified
Bronze rated corsair semi modular 850 WAT PSU

Please help, this is my best friend's computer and I want to fix it as soon as humanly possible.


----------



## Solonowarion

Yeah thats what I am thinking. Just frusterating that it did recognize the ram at first.


----------



## morta

thanks for the detaild explination.im a slow learner and having no one to help you in person makes things very tuff ..but imgoing to continue to learn this stuff so apreshiat it. by the way are there any other voltages i should be aware of for anything els.ones in perticuler that comes to my intrest is +12v,+5v and the +3.3v there levels seem reely high..as far as voltages go i only no about the vcore. is there a guide anywere that explains indepth what all the settings do within the bios?mainly DIGI+power control


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcSlave*
> 
> Hi,
> Has anybody had stability issues on the intel 6gbs ports and raid 0 ssd?
> Spec
> sigrig below
> is time farcry 3 worked ect, later on i tried my wheel with a game, the wheel would crash the games, later games would'nt start followed by steam noonger wou


I have no experience with RAID - but my sata 3 port works well with my HDD's and SSD
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clam Slammer*
> 
> Got a mondo major problem. Need solid advice.
> So, installing a second 680 and a 212+ on my lucky friends computer. 680 instal is straightforward, all goes well. BUT NO! Rig wont display video, no bios. *Red light on CPU is solid.* Is there a short somewhere? Is CPU damaged? What should I check? Has anyone had this problem before?
> sible.


someone else had the problem - no one knew why it was being displayed.
Have you check the CPU is properly fitted on and no pins are bent?

EDIT:
A few mins googling and:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1062775/asus-p8z68-v-motherboard-red-cpu-light

http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/pc-boots-motherboard-cpu-led-goes-red-everything-else-turns-on.158949/

Pins, power, RMA'ing of the board - it seems like it is one of those.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clam Slammer*
> 
> Got a mondo major problem. Need solid advice.
> 
> So, installing a second 680 and a 212+ on my lucky friends computer. 680 instal is straightforward, all goes well. BUT NO! Rig wont display video, no bios. *Red light on CPU is solid.* Is there a short somewhere? Is CPU damaged? What should I check? Has anyone had this problem before?
> 
> Tried:
> Bios reset
> RAM OK (Ram light was blinking, at least fixed that)
> Taking one 680 out
> Trying CPU fan on different mobo ports.
> 
> Specs:
> i7 2600k
> Asus sabertooth Z77
> 12 GB Corsair DDR3 1333
> One/ two GTX 680s 2GB EVGA classified
> Bronze rated corsair semi modular 850 WAT PSU
> 
> Please help, this is my best friend's computer and I want to fix it as soon as humanly possible.


I feel for you *Clam Slammer*. Bummer when you try to help a friend and runinto things like this.

First thing is verify all cables and connections are OK, as they sometimes get bumped when working on your system.

If that does not help, then see if you can undo the changes and get back to where you started OK or not. If not, then maybe something was damaged. Find out what and fix that.

If it is OK back at original start, then add one change at a time and verify it works. Let us know how this goes and good luck!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks for the detaild explination.im a slow learner and having no one to help you in person makes things very tuff ..but imgoing to continue to learn this stuff so apreshiat it. by the way are there any other voltages i should be aware of for anything els.ones in perticuler that comes to my intrest is +12v,+5v and the +3.3v there levels seem reely high..as far as voltages go i only no about the vcore. is there a guide anywere that explains indepth what all the settings do within the bios?mainly DIGI+power control


Do not worry about the +12v,+5v and the +3.3v *morta* as they are from the PSU, and unless there is something really wrong with your PSU they should be fine.

This link below talks some about the other BIOS voltages, and it has this chart (below) in it as a guide that is useful. Mainly, on IB, the voltage that matters the most is the vcore when it comes to OCing the cpu to around 4.5GHz. Other settings are OK on auto unless you want to go higher OCs and make your system stable or bench with it. Then you need to learn about the other settings and play around with them yourself to see what your particular system does.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1247413/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-with-ln2-guide-at-the-end


----------



## morta

iv been trying to stress test at 1.2v for 4.4 ghz using aida64 its been running for over 1 houre now..my max temp so far though is 78 and im using an H100 is this normal? Update my pc just turnd itself off


----------



## morta

sorry jut sore ur reply. if there was somthing wrong with my PSU what would it be?. +12 v is currently on 7.08v +3.3 is on 3.36v and +5 is on 5.04v as shown in hardware monitor. been running aida64


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> If it is OK back at original start, then add one change at a time and verify it works. Let us know how this goes and good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do not worry about the +12v,+5v and the +3.3v *morta* as they are from the PSU, and unless there is something really wrong with your PSU they should


Just to add to that - HWmonitor and AI Suite II - showed my v12 rail as being 7v instead.
So unless you can't power on the system, or have a voltmeter at hand - your PSU is fine, ans is outputting the right amount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> iv been trying to stress test at 1.2v for 4.4 ghz using aida64 its been running for over 1 houre now..my max temp so far though is 78 and im using an H100 is this normal? Update my pc just turnd itself off


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> sorry jut sore ur reply. if there was somthing wrong with my PSU what would it be?. +12 v is currently on 7.08v +3.3 is on 3.36v and +5 is on 5.04v as shown in hardware monitor. been running aida64


See above, about my comment on 12v - it is just being displayed incorrectly.

Now if you are refusing to follow instructions...I can't help no more.
Open prime, follow the settings in Swag's OC'ing guide:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

Do 4.4ghz @ 1.25v.

What really gets to me Morta, is that we are all trying to help, and spending our time doing so - but you are refusing to listen or take time to read guides.
You really ought to spend some time LEARNING, before TRYING.
I'm no pro - and far from it, but with patience, diligence, and proper guidance, I got my OC at 4.5ghz, and now I'm helping people achieve their OC's too. If you want to ignore our comments, or ignore the guides, then all we can do is repeat ourselves.

I know for a fact I've told you to use P95 & go for 4.5ghz @ 1.25v with a manual vcore (you even refused to go via manual and stayed at offset for a while)


----------



## morta

i have been listning and i have been learning. its just alot to take in and hard to follow. having learnign disabiltiys dosent make it any easyer either..so if you think i havent been lisning to you your wrong to think that.as i said beffor i apreshiat ur help. i will try priam and see what happens. thank you again


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clam Slammer*
> 
> Got a mondo major problem. Need solid advice.
> So, installing a second 680 and a 212+ on my lucky friends computer. 680 instal is straightforward, all goes well. BUT NO! Rig wont display video, no bios. *Red light on CPU is solid.* Is there a short somewhere? Is CPU damaged? What should I check? Has anyone had this problem before?
> Tried:
> Bios reset
> RAM OK (Ram light was blinking, at least fixed that)
> Taking one 680 out
> Trying CPU fan on different mobo ports.
> Specs:
> i7 2600k
> Asus sabertooth Z77
> 12 GB Corsair DDR3 1333
> One/ two GTX 680s 2GB EVGA classified
> Bronze rated corsair semi modular 850 WAT PSU
> Please help, this is my best friend's computer and I want to fix it as soon as humanly possible.


Also, do you have the latest bios?

I would try and slim things down. Break it down to bare bones. 1 stick of ram 1 video card 1 hard drive.

I also see that you have a 12gb kit. I wonder if that isn't playing well since the board is dual channel.

Do the fans spin up? Seem like the device actually gets power?

Was this a brand new 2600k or used?


----------



## Clam Slammer

Brand new, not sure on bios. Might have to do the barebones-testbench thing if remount of CPU doesn't fly.

Seems to be powering up just fine. Had a light on RAM but managed to fix it with remount. (What the F, right?)

Thanks for all of your help people, you're the kind of people that makes this place great


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clam Slammer*
> 
> Brand new, not sure on bios. Might have to do the barebones-testbench thing if remount of CPU doesn't fly.
> Seems to be powering up just fine. Had a light on RAM but managed to fix it with remount. (What the F, right?)
> Thanks for all of your help people, you're the kind of people that makes this place great


When you do that remount, be sure to look at the pins inside.

While, the ram light may have gone off, it still could be causing an issue.

Keep us posted.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> i have been listning and i have been learning. its just alot to take in and hard to follow. having learnign disabiltiys dosent make it any easyer either..so if you think i havent been lisning to you your wrong to think that.as i said beffor i apreshiat ur help. i will try priam and see what happens. thank you again


Pleasure mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clam Slammer*
> 
> Brand new, not sure on bios. Might have to do the barebones-testbench thing if remount of CPU doesn't fly.
> Seems to be powering up just fine. Had a light on RAM but managed to fix it with remount. (What the F, right?)
> Thanks for all of your help people, you're the kind of people that makes this place great


is ur board clean?
You given it a nice blow down?

RAM errors come form that, or incompatibility or OCing


----------



## morta

been running prime for nearly 1 hour. i plan on running it for 8 hours but my cpu temp is at 81c.should i try to keep going or stop?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> been running prime for nearly 1 hour. i plan on running it for 8 hours but my cpu temp is at 81c.should i try to keep going or stop?


keep going - my temp got to 92c
TJ max is 95c.


----------



## morta

ok so if i managed to keep running prime for the next couple of houres but it gos to 95c dose that meen its not stable? i only use it for browsing the internet and gaming. no video editing or benchmark or folding or anything like that. o yea and the other thing is if i get it stable and the max vcore is say 1.28 dose that meen that is the min voltage i need to keep it stable considering this is a stress test and games wont need this much power. i dont need to have it that high right?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok so if i managed to keep running prime for the next couple of houres but it gos to 95c dose that meen its not stable? i only use it for browsing the internet and gaming. no video editing or benchmark or folding or anything like that. o yea and the other thing is if i get it stable and the max vcore is say 1.28 dose that meen that is the min voltage i need to keep it stable considering this is a stress test and games wont need this much power. i dont need to have it that high right?


No. Stability has to do with it keeps running without programs crashing or BSOD (Blue Screens Of Death). If everything keeps running while stressed for a while (8-12hrs of prime), then you are pretty stable. You will still want to check the system with some other programs that stress your system in other ways to have higher confidence of stability like IBT, CineBench, and most importantly, the games and program you normaly run.

On temps, 95C or 97C is the TJMax for Sandy Bridge, but I see you have an IVY Bridge, so they can and do run a bit hotter. The TJMax for an IVY Bridge is 105C. Temps are important not for stability, but for damage to your cpu. If you run too hot you can damage your chip. You can run stability tests on an IVY in the 90C range, but you would not want to run your normal programs at that temp - but almost none of them will as the stress programs like prime and IBT always push systems way beyond normal, as they should and as we want them to.

If you are running prime95 on a system OCed to 4.5GHZ @ 1.28v, and it sometime gets into the high 80C and mid 90C temps range, you should be fine for your prime run of 8-12hrs as I have done it that way and many of my fellow OCers on here have too.

That is if you have an IVY Bridge. If you have a Sandy Bridge, then the TJMax temp *dubbed* told you of 95C means you need to keep the temps in the 70-mid80C range for prime and IBT.


----------



## morta

ok cool 95c it is then .so if I pass at the current voltage and wanted to try to lower it.. considering i allready no that its stable would I be able to run games to test for crasehs rather then run prim again. or if i had to run prime would i have to run it for another 8 houres? would 20 mins or even 1 houre be enough?


----------



## morta

hay man i just noticed ur rig and it looks like we have the same memory. but in ur over clock ur timing is diff. did u have to change the timing to 9 9 9 24 to get it stable . is there a diffrance in performance when changing the timing?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok cool 95c it is then .so if I pass at the current voltage and wanted to try to lower it.. considering i allready no that its stable would I be able to run games to test for crasehs rather then run prim again. or if i had to run prime would i have to run it for another 8 houres? would 20 mins or even 1 houre be enough?


exsample: on my 1st oc at 4.6 @ 1.34v prime test ok, temps ok then i tried to lower the voltage at 0.005 at a time i got to 1.28-1.30v all seem ok for prime test for a couple of hrs also did aida 64 for the same amount of time all ok,
come to play bf3 and ts running inback ground within 10mins of play my catalyst control center stop? so restarted bf3 within 15 mins this time it happen again.so cut the story short i had to increase the vcore back up to 1.33-1.34v.
so now everything is ok no bf3 stops etc. all my stress test temps has never gone over 75oc.as to the ati ccc software it seem it needed some extra power to run the program.

run prime for a few hours then play games and see what happens if you bsod up the vcore:thumb:


----------



## morta

sorry guys more questions sorry. once i find a stable voltage is it worth trying to find the min voltage for the overclock that boots into windows but is not stable so i can maybe get a ruf estemt of how much an incress woud be needed to go from 4.5ghz to 4.6ghz stable?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> No. Stability has to do with it keeps running without programs crashing or BSOD (Blue Screens Of Death). If everything keeps running while stressed for a wIBT.


I thought TJ max for ivy was 95 not 105 - my bad.
Regardless you don't want to hit over 95 anyway







!

Sandy, had a lower TJ max - I thought they were lower than 95c for sandy, as normal temps for sandy is 70c under p95, whereas ivy is like 80-90c - guess I was wrong!

As he is on IVY btw, then he can go up to 105c

Anyway - agreed on everything you said.
-Stability is based on how long with no errors it can run.
-Temps are based on cooling and volts/cpu speed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok cool 95c it is then .so if I pass at the current voltage and wanted to try to lower it.. considering i allready no that its stable would I be able to run games to test for crasehs rather then run prim again. or if i had to run prime would i have to run it for another 8 houres? would 20 mins or even 1 houre be enough?


If you want to try lower you can, but you'll have to start the whole process over again, to make sure it is stable.
That's why I suggest starting at a low voltage, then moving up, untill you are fine, rather than vice versa. Thus 1.25v and going up from there - remember lower volts, usually means lower temps.

I also suggest staying at 4.5ghz, and not going higher, unless you REALLY want to.
Remember higher you go, those temps will go higher too, and there's only a few things you can do to counter that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> hay man i just noticed ur rig and it looks like we have the same memory. but in ur over clock ur timing is diff. did u have to change the timing to 9 9 9 24 to get it stable . is there a diffrance in performance when changing the timing?


Don't touch the ram whilst ocing cpu - make sure each is stable, one bit at a time.
More so, oc'ing ram is quite pointless nowadays - the performance increase is so negligible, that you'll need benchmarking tools to tell the difference between the numbers - like the difference between 4.5ghz and 4.55 / 4.6 ghz, that 0.1 or 0.05 won't be noticed, realistically.
I suggest sticking to the tested and recommended ram timings of your manufacturer. As for volts too, but if u got a few sticks, like me, adding an extra 0.5v for ram won't hurt, and helps stability.


----------



## morta

thanks for ur help man and your patients i dont intend to overclock my ram i was just wondering if the resson u changed the timing was to help stabilty with ur overclock. one other thing though if i have 2 other sticks of memory that overclock to 2000mhz but can run at 1600 aswell on the same timing as 9-9-9-24 but are not the same manufacture as corsair..would i be able to use them along with the corsair ones? and if i was to do this would i have to set the system to optimised defults beffor doing this or could i just add them to the overclock if i get this one stable?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks for ur help man and your patients i dont intend to overclock my ram i was just wondering if the resson u changed the timing was to help stabilty with ur overclock. one other thing though if i have 2 other sticks of memory that overclock to 2000mhz but can run at 1600 aswell on the same timing as 9-9-9-24 but are not the same manufacture as corsair..would i be able to use them along with the corsair ones? and if i was to do this would i have to set the system to optimised defults beffor doing this or could i just add them to the overclock if i get this one stable?


ooo that's a hard question RAM wise.
Ideally you would want all ram and speeds to be the same.
I can't advise running rams at different timings. So downgrading the better ram to correspond with the worse ram I think would be the ideal situation - but you'll have to confirm that with someone else.


----------



## Garming

Can this board overclock the Samsung ram or any ram past 1866? On newegg's product page, it only says ram support up to 1866mhz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Can this board overclock the Samsung ram or any ram past 1866? On newegg's product page, it only says ram support up to 1866mhz


it supports ram higher than that if that's what you are asking.
AS for OC'ing it - that's a different issue.


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> it supports ram higher than that if that's what you are asking.
> AS for OC'ing it - that's a different issue.


That somewhat answers it. Last thing, I might be able to get this for 135, would you recommend this board or should I look elsewhere.


----------



## morta

135 is a good price if u ask me


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

How am I looking, anything that does not look right please let me know,

Tried 1.265 and BSOD after 3 hours of prime 95


----------



## morta

6 1/2 hours prime think its safe to say its stable?i dont think 8 houres is going to rais any of the values temps and volts havent goten any higher since 2 hours into the test. max vlot is 26 temp is 81 on core temp.hardware moniter ses 82. what do u think?


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 6 1/2 hours prime think its safe to say its stable?i dont think 8 houres is going to rais any of the values temps and volts havent goten any higher since 2 hours into the test. max vlot is 26 temp is 81 on core temp.hardware moniter ses 82. what do u think?


Screen shot some bios settings for me please......


----------



## morta

i cant im still running prime still.. but i followd totaly dubbs bios settigs http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293


----------



## morta

4.5ghz reached 10:18 - 6:00 of prime .bit under by mistake but not by much.. dunno why but i couldent get the picture to resize properly. but here is my result. if anyone can tell me how i can make the pictre biger please tell me im usles with this upload bussnis if it is to small to make out for the record my max temp was 81 and max vott 1.26


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> No. Stability has to do with it keeps running without programs crashing or BSOD (Blue Screens Of Death). If everything keeps running while stressed for a wIBT.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought TJ max for ivy was 95 not 105 - my bad.
> Regardless you don't want to hit over 95 anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Sandy, had a lower TJ max - I thought they were lower than 95c for sandy, as normal temps for sandy is 70c under p95, whereas ivy is like 80-90c - guess I was wrong!
> 
> As he is on IVY btw, then he can go up to 105c
> 
> Anyway - agreed on everything you said.
> -Stability is based on how long with no errors it can run.
> -Temps are based on cooling and volts/cpu speed
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok cool 95c it is then .so if I pass at the current voltage and wanted to try to lower it.. considering i allready no that its stable would I be able to run games to test for crasehs rather then run prim again. or if i had to run prime would i have to run it for another 8 houres? would 20 mins or even 1 houre be enough?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you want to try lower you can, but you'll have to start the whole process over again, to make sure it is stable.
> That's why I suggest starting at a low voltage, then moving up, untill you are fine, rather than vice versa. Thus 1.25v and going up from there - remember lower volts, usually means lower temps.
> 
> I also suggest staying at 4.5ghz, and not going higher, unless you REALLY want to.
> Remember higher you go, those temps will go higher too, and there's only a few things you can do to counter that.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> hay man i just noticed ur rig and it looks like we have the same memory. but in ur over clock ur timing is diff. did u have to change the timing to 9 9 9 24 to get it stable . is there a diffrance in performance when changing the timing?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't touch the ram whilst ocing cpu - make sure each is stable, one bit at a time.
> More so, oc'ing ram is quite pointless nowadays - the performance increase is so negligible, that you'll need benchmarking tools to tell the difference between the numbers - like the difference between 4.5ghz and 4.55 / 4.6 ghz, that 0.1 or 0.05 won't be noticed, realistically.
> I suggest sticking to the tested and recommended ram timings of your manufacturer. As for volts too, but if u got a few sticks, like me, adding an extra 0.5v for ram won't hurt, and helps stability.
Click to expand...

*Morta*, *Dubbed* has lots of good advice for you above. Good to listen to him as he helps you. Yep, the IB TJMax is 105C, so you have some more room with IB than SB does.Turning up your voltage to find good vcore works as you can quickly find when your system fails and then up your vcore until it passes. Note what he says about not touching the ram until after you find your vcore setting for your cpu.

Note: ram speed does not matter much for almost everything except benching. I run my ram at 1866 and 8-8-8-21 1T because I like to bench, but it makes NO difference in games and anything else I use. I just like to do it that way as it was fun to get them to run at that speed, and they help my bench scores. No other purpose or reason to do it really. So you can do it later if you want to for fun also, but only after you get your cpu stable as *dubbed* has noted.

I too agree with *dubbed* that you will be fine at 4.5GHz as it is a nice OC bump on the stock speed and will be nice in games, but little reason to go further than that for almost anything else. OCers only go beyond that for fun and benching as it makes almost zero difference in anything else we do. I run at 4.5GHz myself for everything, until I want to bench - then I boot a different BIOS profile and go to town for a short time of benching and OCing fun. And then I go back to 4.5GHz for gaming and everything else.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 4.5ghz reached 10:18 - 6:00 of prime .bit under by mistake but not by much.. dunno why but i couldent get the picture to resize properly. but here is my result. if anyone can tell me how i can make the pictre biger please tell me im usles with this upload bussnis if it is to small to make out for the record my max temp was 81 and max vott 1.26


*Morta*, that looks just great if you ask me. Nice OC @ very good vcore, and with fine temps. I think you have a sweet spot there that many other IB owners would like to have. I know my own IB chip is not as good as yours, and I have owned and tried three different 3770ks, and one 3570K on three different motherboards. You have a good chip.

I think you can leave it where you have it and start to run some other programs besides prime - like IBT and Cinebench and 3Dmark11 and Unigine Heaven - to see how it runs with them, then your games and other programs you use. If they run, then you are good. If not, then bump your vcore up .05v or .01v until it is. You are doing fine *morta*.


----------



## morta

thanks man i was actule going to try and lower the voltage and see how low i could get stable wise..ii already found that 1.195 is the lowest value i can get that boot into windows without any programs stoping. so i no now that i could possible get a lower stable voltage between 1.195 and 1.250 was gona try running prime for 10 mins to see if it crasehs and if it dose try going up 0.10 increments at a time till it dosent crash.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 4.5ghz reached 10:18 - 6:00 of prime .bit under by mistake but not by much.. dunno why but i couldent get the picture to resize properly. but here is my result. if anyone can tell me how i can make the pictre biger please tell me im usles with this upload bussnis if it is to small to make out for the record my max temp was 81 and max vott 1.26


well done like WARGAMER have said many would love to have that chip at that vcore(you want to sell it)







but the temps are within limits but i would of throught if you try to go pass 4.5 say 4.6 i would say you would need aleast 1.28-1.30v which is still good but you will see your temps jump up quite abit.
i found that on mine 4.6 with 1.34v was a sweet spot with max temps at 75oc.not sure what cooler you are using?but am using antec 920 water
anyway


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> thanks man i was actule going to try and lower the voltage and see how low i could get stable wise..ii already found that 1.195 is the lowest value i can get that boot into windows without any programs stoping. so i no now that i could possible get a lower stable voltage between 1.195 and 1.250 was gona try running prime for 10 mins to see if it crasehs and if it dose try going up 0.10 increments at a time till it dosent crash.


Sounds good. Note, prime 95 is not really the program to run for like 10min. Its not a bad thing to do, but it is really for longer stability testing. Really, to run through all of the tests and verify full prime95 stability at 4.5GHz takes about 17.5hrs. To join the IVY Bridge Stable club you need to run it for at least 12hrs, and use 80-90% mem as you do (custom blend).

For short stability runs use IBT (Intel Burn Test v.2.54) and Cinebench R11.5. These two programs run quick stabilty tests and are good to use to quickly find a good vcore to then consider running a longer stabilty run of prime95 on.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 4.5ghz reached 10:18 - 6:00 of prime .bit under by mistake but not by much.. dunno why but i couldent get the picture to resize properly. but here is my result. if anyone can tell me how i can make the pictre biger please tell me im usles with this upload bussnis if it is to small to make out for the record my max temp was 81 and max vott 1.26
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well done like warhammer have said many would love to have that chip at that vcore(you want to sell it)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the temps are within limits but i would of throught if you try to go pass 4.5 say 4.6 i would say you would need aleast 1.28-1.30v which is still good but you will see your temps jump up quite abit.
> i found that on mine 4.6 with 1.34v was a sweet spot with max temps at 75oc.not sure what cooler you are using?but am using antec 920 water
> anyway
Click to expand...

warhammer - LOL


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 4.5ghz reached 10:18 - 6:00 of prime .bit under by mistake but not by much.. dunno why but i couldent get the picture to resize properly. but here is my result. if anyone can tell me how i can make the pictre biger please tell me im usles with this upload bussnis if it is to small to make out for the record my max temp was 81 and max vott 1.26


*Morta*, I just noticed, your prime95 is not using the AVX instruction set. You want it to if you want to better verify system stability, and to do so requires that you use prime95 v27.7, and also that your Windows 7 is updated with SP1.

You will stress your system much greater once you use the correct versions of prime95 with windows using SP1. Using the AVX instruction set will increase the system stress, so you might need a little more vcore, and you will see higher temps of around 5-10C at 4.5GHz between the correct version and the one you are using.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCWargamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> 4.5ghz reached 10:18 - 6:00 of prime .bit under by mistake but not by much.. dunno why but i couldent get the picture to resize properly. but here is my result. if anyone can tell me how i can make the pictre biger please tell me im usles with this upload bussnis if it is to small to make out for the record my max temp was 81 and max vott 1.26
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well done like warhammer have said many would love to have that chip at that vcore(you want to sell it)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the temps are within limits but i would of throught if you try to go pass 4.5 say 4.6 i would say you would need aleast 1.28-1.30v which is still good but you will see your temps jump up quite abit.
> i found that on mine 4.6 with 1.34v was a sweet spot with max temps at 75oc.not sure what cooler you are using?but am using antec 920 water
> anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> warhammer - LOL
Click to expand...

sorry for some reason i had hammer on my mind :kookoo:my mistake been adjusted:thumb:


----------



## SpEaKeRb0xXx

@morta, see? you actually got a good chip.








anyways i guess everything will be fine now and congrats, finally u were able to OC and fine tune your system.


----------



## Solonowarion

Just started the rma process for this board with asus. Whish me luck.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Just started the rma process for this board with asus. Whish me luck.


Good luck dude.

@morta:
I would be inclined to say: why try a lower voltage, when your temps are already fine.
The temps seem very good, and thus the only objective to lowering your vcore would be to save a bit of heat.
If you have patience, then by all means try going for a lower vcore, and test.

Also by all means copy my prime settings, with the options ticked, and 90% ram used in a custom blend. This will also stress your ram.

As for period of time 6hrs is good. Although, next time aim for 12, and within 6 not all the tests are complete, and thus you don't get a full rotation.
If you are happy with your results, the next step would be to go to offset, based on your current vcore and vid at load, then finally to actually use the computer and not just test it.


----------



## AnDry115

Hello,

i am new to this site, and i must say i learned a lot here.
But watching how some of your sistem works i see, that my temperatures are quite high compared to some ppl have.



My sistem is:
cpu: i5 3570k
cpu cooler: thermalright silver arrow sb-e extreme
mobo: sabertooth z77
ram: 16gb corsair vengeance 9.9.9.24
power suply: be quiet! straight power e9 700w
graphics card: at this moment i am using radeon hd 5670, but i allready bought Asus gtx 660 top 2gb (but has a bug on it :/ so i have to RMA it)
case: thermaltake xaser iii (big tower)

So what should i do to lower my temps a bit?
If i missed out on some pictures please tell me, and i will put on other pics..

Thanks a lot


----------



## AnDry115

i forgot to write that i am running @3.40 GHz, so no overclocking over here..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnDry115*
> 
> Hello,
> i am new to this site, and i must say i learned a lot here.
> But watching how some of your sistem works i see, that my temperatures are quite high compared to some ppl have.
> 
> My sistem is:
> cpu: i5 3570k
> cpu cooler: thermalright silver arrow sb-e extreme
> mobo: sabertooth z77
> ram: 16gb corsair vengeance 9.9.9.24
> power suply: be quiet! straight power e9 700w
> graphics card: at this moment i am using radeon hd 5670, but i allready bought Asus gtx 660 top 2gb (but has a bug on it :/ so i have to RMA it)
> case: thermaltake xaser iii (big tower)
> So what should i do to lower my temps a bit?
> If i missed out on some pictures please tell me, and i will put on other pics..
> Thanks a lot


Hi there, and welcome to OCN!

First of all - that's low temps for your board.
Secondly - those are motherboard temps, just previously we were referring to CPU temps (to get cpu temps use something like real temp or core temp to monitor the actual temps of your CPU and not your board - they are completely different things)
Thirdly - to get better temps (if for some reason you want it) - there are only a few things you can do:
-Get more case fans
-Put the PC in a cooler place (like on a desk vs on a carpet)
-Watercool/liquid cool your parts
-Submerge your whole system into the Antarctic


----------



## AnDry115

Thank you for fast reply














.

Guess im a bigger "noob" than i thought







.

Will take a time to test it in real temp today, and will post results.

Thanks







Antarctic seems bit cold for my manhood


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnDry115*
> 
> Thank you for fast reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Guess im a bigger "noob" than i thought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Will take a time to test it in real temp today, and will post results.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antarctic seems bit cold for my manhood


haha








And no a lot of people get that mis-conception, myself included, but I knew about real temp beforehand, so after comparing I realised I was a fool for thinking they were my CPU temps


----------



## Sujeto 1

Hey guys, sorry for bothering, somebody could tell me how reliable is this motherboard, due to this thread is of Sabertooth Z77 owners, i think is the best place to ask this, i mean i already know that Maximus V Extreme and ROG some people has issues, but i have a hope on this motherboard, beside that i really love how it looks and i can see it have TUF components, Ok but if you tell me actually there are not many issues related to this, i think im going for this for my new gaming rig or should i look for a gigabyte instead.

and one more thing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no a lot of people get that mis-conception, myself included, but I knew about real temp beforehand, so after comparing I realised I was a fool for thinking they were my CPU temps


I can see you have the AX750 Corsair, is that PSU ok, no noise no coil whine?"is everything ok?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Hey guys, sorry for bothering, somebody could tell me how reliable is this motherboard, due to this thread is of Sabertooth Z77 owners, i think is the best place to ask this, i mean i already know that Maximus V Extreme and ROG some people has issues, but i have a hope on this motherboard, beside that i really love how it looks and i can see it have TUF components, Ok but if you tell me actually there are not many issues related to this, i think im going for this for my new gaming rig or should i look for a gigabyte instead.
> and one more thing
> I can see you have the AX750 Corsair, is that PSU ok, no noise no coil whine?"is everything ok?


AX750 is noise-less, everything runs fine, and it is more than enough to power my rig.

As for the Z77, as said before some reported problems with RAM, others with CPU, and others with BIOS - but for me, I have no problems since the get-go with the motherboard itself.


----------



## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> AX750 is noise-less, everything runs fine, and it is more than enough to power my rig.
> As for the Z77, as said before some reported problems with RAM, others with CPU, and others with BIOS - but for me, I have no problems since the get-go with the motherboard itself.


Rigth, but can i say that is part of normal statiscs? due to shipping or bad using of the motherboard, can i do a purchase on faith? because its kinda what im goin to do, a purchase of faith, cause i know as you told me, Asus will leave me most like lonely, and i live in Southamerica, is more faith.

I have my P5Q ASUS and i never need to use RMA or something, is a ROCK, is the best motherboard i could have. but not sure if times had changed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Rigth, but can i say that is part of normal statiscs? due to shipping or bad using of the motherboard, can i do a purchase on faith? because its kinda what im goin to do, a purchase of faith, cause i know as you told me, Asus will leave me most like lonely, and i live in Southamerica, is more faith.
> I have my P5Q ASUS and i never need to use RMA or something, is a ROCK, is the best motherboard i could have. but not sure if times had changed.


Well can you return to the reseller and/or deal with them i anything goes wrong?
If so - buy the motherboard, you won't be disappointed







!

I love the look myself, like you.


----------



## morta

sorry guys i dident make myself clear i was refering to the 24hour clock .started prime at 22:18 finished prime at 6:00. but refering back to prime settings i think i did make a mistake because i ran it again at 1.240v and it passd 7 houres ...iv had it on blend custom, and the only settings i changed was memory to change in megabites from 1600 to 1440 i thought that was what u ment about taking 90% i proble should of of inquierd about the settings beffor atempted this but i over look things easly sorry


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> sorry guys i dident make myself clear i was refering to the 24hour clock .started prime at 22:18 finished prime at 6:00. but refering back to prime settings i think i did make a mistake because i ran it again at 1.240v and it passd 7 houres ...iv had it on blend custom, and the only settings i changed was memory to change in megabites from 1600 to 1440 i thought that was what u ment about taking 90% i proble should of of inquierd about the settings beffor atempted this but i over look things easly sorry


ah ha yeah no, p95 90%, not ur actual ram









http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

Swags thread + my screnshots of prime (and bios







) are there


----------



## Sujeto 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well can you return to the reseller and/or deal with them i anything goes wrong?
> If so - buy the motherboard, you won't be disappointed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> I love the look myself, like you.


Thanks for response sir, well even when i live in Southamerica, i buy from amazon.com USA, shipping cost are cruelty expensives for import stuff in my country so if I also have to RMA something back to amazon USA it would cost me more than what a paid for the item, thats why in my situation i have to be totally sure of reliability.

Leap of faith


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Thanks for response sir, well even when i live in Southamerica, i buy from amazon.com USA, shipping cost are cruelty expensives for import stuff in my country so if I also have to RMA something back to amazon USA it would cost me more than what a paid for the item, thats why in my situation i have to be totally sure of reliability.
> Leap of faith


hahaha!

And yeah well...amazon will cover your RMA for 1yr, and the rest of the 4yrs after it....well good luck with asus LOL.

That's why I chose SCAN UK, which have an ROB (return to base) policy of all 5years


----------



## morta

damm..ok ok looking in task manager under avalible my memory when system loads with ,hwm and core temps it reads 14553 so im sapost to key in 13097.7? acording to google calculator thats 90% taken away. im clules with mathes. sorry im not lookin for a solid bench mark overclock for 12 houres i just want it stable enough for games.so despite my error how much of a diffrance will this make?and was the ones i did preiviusly a waste of time beacuse of this :S


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> damm..ok ok looking in task manager under avalible my memory when system loads with ,hwm and core temps it reads 14553 so im sapost to key in 13097.7? acording to google calculator thats 90% taken away. im clules with mathes. sorry im not lookin for a solid bench mark overclock for 12 houres i just want it stable enough for games.so despite my error how much of a diffrance will this make?and was the ones i did preiviusly a waste of time beacuse of this :S


The ones before weren't a waste of time no, but this will now stress your ram fully - wereas before it only tested around 2-10% of it.
Put 13,000 for it, and you should be fine









Don't forget those two ticked options (those options are there in order to quickly find RAM errors, if you get rounding errors from now, it MIGHT be caused by RAM)


----------



## morta

ah ok so i was using the latest v of prim 95. somone said earlye i need to use a dif vershion.beacuse this one dosent have that option listed in ur picture. but still those tests i did would of stresd the system more then normal aplications?. so am I right in saying that i have it fairly stable but not stable if i want to join the overclockers club?or use somthing like video edting and benchmark software??? if that the case id rther pass on doing another 8 houre prim to find out...but if i have to then i will test it tonight and check tomorow morning


----------



## Sujeto 1

Totally Dubbed i decided to not goin with Asus this time, not worth the risk, i think im goin with this

Gigabyte http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-CrossFireX-NVIDIA-Motherboard-GA-Z77X-UD5H/dp/B007R21JK4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1357230763&sr=8-5&keywords=gigabyte

or even this

this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R21KAI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Please what is your opinion about this brand and models, thanks a lot.


----------



## Abenlog

I'm looking to do a loop with the Sabertooth as my centerpiece but I'm really bad with colors. What do you think will go well with the board? I am willing to buy a FrozenQ helix res so please remember to include overall LEDs, possible helix color, sleeving color, and coolant color. ANY help you guys can give me would be much appreciated.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ah ok so i was using the latest v of prim 95. somone said earlye i need to use a dif vershion.beacuse this one dosent have that option listed in ur picture. but still those tests i did would of stresd the system more then normal aplications?. so am I right in saying that i have it fairly stable but not stable if i want to join the overclockers club?or use somthing like video edting and benchmark software??? if that the case id rther pass on doing another 8 houre prim to find out...but if i have to then i will test it tonight and check tomorow morning


That's why it was implied to use the newer version of P95.
Simply because of those options.

Your previous tests were fine, and does grant you stable in your OC.
But just to double check and to re-assure yourself, I would redo the tests, with the new info you have been learning, and more so at a lower voltage (as you wanted to do that)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sujeto 1*
> 
> Totally Dubbed i decided to not goin with Asus this time, not worth the risk, i think im goin with this
> Please what is your opinion about this brand and models, thanks a lot.


fair enough - I can't comment on either performance nor brand warranty situations. You just ought to google around or ask in a separate thread


----------



## morta

thanks for ur help man and to the person askin me earlyer what cooler im using ita a corsair H100 my hardware is all in my sig


----------



## chillidog

ok then lads

please forgive my Stupidity in advance if i have missed or missed understood anywhere in any post. my question to yous is that in cpu-z my vcore clocks down 0.960 to 1.008 now thats ok
BUT
in the core speed section of cpu-z it still shows 4500.05 this is with no running progams ( i have down clocked from 4.6). now my question am sure this should not happen have i forgot or missed something?

or will this be ok? your help and info is needed:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> ok then lads
> please forgive my Stupidity in advance if i have missed or missed understood anywhere in any post. my question to yous is that in cpu-z my vcore clocks down 0.960 to 1.008 now thats ok
> BUT
> in the core speed section of cpu-z it still shows 4500.05 this is with no running progams ( i have down clocked from 4.6). now my question am sure this should not happen have i forgot or missed something?
> or will this be ok? your help and info is needed:thumb:


no that's fine - what are your windows power options? and more so, what is your CPU Min and MAX percentage at?
Could be CPU-Z not showing the clock speed properly, or it could be ur windows settings doing that.

Voltage wise -> that's normal, nothing to worry about.

Print screen and report back.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> no that's fine - what are your windows power options? and more so, what is your CPU Min and MAX percentage at?
> Could be CPU-Z not showing the clock speed properly, or it could be ur windows settings doing that.
> 
> Voltage wise -> that's normal, nothing to worry about.
> 
> Print screen and report back.


you know i feel so stupid i forgot about the power options i adjusted them now and all ok thx:thumb:.it must be the car accident yesterday i had knocked be brains about:kookoo:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> you know i feel so stupid i forgot about the power options i adjusted them now and all ok thx:thumb:.it must be the car accident yesterday i had knocked be brains about:kookoo:


Nop - not many people know that one, surprisingly, myself included, until I did some playing around and testing.


----------



## morta

hay just so i understand this correctly if i wanted to use the stock clock 3.5 but use 45 on the turbosince i now no that 1.24 is the voltage i need for 4.5 do i have to load system defults first so it backs the voltage back down to 0.098 and use the + offset so that it adds up to 1.24 or do i have to go about this a dif way.bit lost still but thanks for helpign me this far


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> hay just so i understand this correctly if i wanted to use the stock clock 3.5 but use 45 on the turbosince i now no that 1.24 is the voltage i need for 4.5 do i have to load system defults first so it backs the voltage back down to 0.098 and use the + offset so that it adds up to 1.24 or do i have to go about this a dif way.bit lost still but thanks for helpign me this far


that doesn't make sense.
You can't use stock clocks, nor turbo, alongside an oc of 4.5ghz


----------



## morta

sorry im not good at explaining myself. let me try again. i ment keepin the stock clock at 3.5 ( cpu ratio 35) but setting the turbo clock to 45 for the overclock.rather then have it solid at 4.5 ghz all the time.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> hay just so i understand this correctly if i wanted to use the stock clock 3.5 but use 45 on the turbosince i now no that 1.24 is the voltage i need for 4.5 do i have to load system defults first so it backs the voltage back down to 0.098 and use the + offset so that it adds up to 1.24 or do i have to go about this a dif way.bit lost still but thanks for helpign me this far
> 
> 
> 
> that doesn't make sense.
> You can't use stock clocks, nor turbo, alongside an oc of 4.5ghz
Click to expand...

if i have read it right am woundering if hes asking if he can keep is overclock @ 4.5 without losing the settings and go back down to stock speeds? if so he would only need to save the bios settings for the 4.5 in profile
and then go back to the stock settings by hiting the f5 in the bios?

i know he is learning but hes also hard to understand morta can you confirm if you mean what i have said?

sorry again TOTAL Dubbed am woundering if he had the same thing as me with the power settings?


----------



## chillidog

TOTALLY Dubbed
just noticed you got the same water cooler as me. have you had any problems with the software as on mine the sound level digital letters db is not showing but the green bar doe's move up and down as the fans kick in

as you can see i set the fan speed to extreme to show you


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> sorry im not good at explaining myself. let me try again. i ment keepin the stock clock at 3.5 ( cpu ratio 35) but setting the turbo clock to 45 for the overclock.rather then have it solid at 4.5 ghz all the time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> if i have read it right am woundering if hes asking if he can keep is overclock @ 4.5 without losing the settings and go back down to stock speeds? if so he would only need to save the bios settings for the 4.5 in profile
> and then go back to the stock settings by hiting the f5 in the bios?
> i know he is learning but hes also hard to understand morta can you confirm if you mean what i have said?
> sorry again TOTAL Dubbed am woundering if he had the same thing as me with the power settings?


If that's what he means - again, no he can't
Setting 45, will disable turbo, and set the CPU frequency to 4.5ghz.

Morta, you want to OC or not?
If so - then 4.5ghz x45 is what you need, and then after being stable, working out an offset.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> TOTALLY Dubbed
> just noticed you got the same water cooler as me. have you had any problems with the software as on mine the sound level digital letters db is not showing but the green bar doe's move up and down as the fans kick in as you can see i set the fan speed to extreme to show you


yup same thing here, DB's don't show either.
I don't know why, but I think it has to do with the PWM fan connection.


----------



## chillidog

totally Dubbed

i e-mailed antec about this and only just got a replie back (at first they wanted me to unistall the software and do a reg clean and then reinstall i did that but the problem still came back )
and now they are saying
Thank you for trying the steps outlined. The cooler should be replaced, because there seems to be a problem with the controller chip of the pump.??? or could it be a problem with their software /firmware/drivers?

but am glad am not the only one then

is this the Corsair Hydro H100/h80i in the making???


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> totally Dubbed
> i e-mailed antec about this and only just got a replie back (at first they wanted me to unistall the software and do a reg clean and then reinstall i did that but the problem still came back )
> and now they are saying
> Thank you for trying the steps outlined. The cooler should be replaced, because there seems to be a problem with the controller chip of the pump.??? or could it be a problem with their software /firmware/drivers?
> but am glad am not the only one then
> is this the Corsair Hydro H100/h80i in the making???


LOL WUT!?
I have no idea - post this in the antec thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/2910#post_18963206

I don't think this is to do with a faulty controller etc - if it is however....I'll rma mine?


----------



## morta

you no how when u set optimized defutts in the bios. it sets the cpu clock to 3.5 but has a turbo of 3.8 i want to no if its possible to set it up so it boots into windows at 3.5 with 0.098v but has a turbo that kicks in to a max of 4.5ghz but only using a max vcore of 1.26.. like the overclock i have done using manual voltage..but not using that much all the time. dose that make more sence..sorry


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> you no how when u set optimized defutts in the bios. it sets the cpu clock to 3.5 but has a turbo of 3.8 i want to no if its possible to set it up so it boots into windows at 3.5 with 0.098v but has a turbo that kicks in to a max of 4.5ghz but only using a max vcore of 1.26.. like the overclock i have done using manual voltage..but not using that much all the time. dose that make more sence..sorry


If you only change your Turbo multiplier, the processor will downclock normally when at idle: (This is using my 4.3GHz @ 1.2v overclock)


----------



## morta

ok so what i want to do is not possible ok then.so forgeting about that. how do i go about this offset thing.. what do i need to do.. i understand i set 1.24 as the manual voltage with llc on ultra high witch i guess makes it go to 1.26 when it needs it.


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok so what i want to do is not possible ok then.so forgeting about that. how do i go about this offset thing.. what do i need to do.. i understand i set 1.24 as the manual voltage with llc on ultra high witch i guess makes it go to 1.26 when it needs it.


If you use offset mode, it should drop the voltage down when it drops the clocks, and only up the voltage to 1.26v when it uses Turbo. Is that what you're wanting it to do?

I am using manual mode right now trying to dial in my max multi and vcore before I try and figure out what offset to use, and haven't really tried to use offset mode yet anyways.


----------



## morta

yea thats what i wanted to do but if it downclocks to a lower speed then 3.5 when using a turbo of 4.5 id rather just stick with what iv got. but use offset mode cuz aparently thats better then manual..im still lost with it though.lol


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> yea thats what i wanted to do but if it downclocks to a lower speed then 3.5 when using a turbo of 4.5 id rather just stick with what iv got. but use offset mode cuz aparently thats better then manual..im still lost with it though.lol


Why does it matter what speed it downclocks to? As soon as you open a program it will speed up to match the workload. It only downclocked like that for me when I had nothing open or running and let it sit at the desktop.

As for how to set up offset mode, hopefully Dubbed or someone can explain it to us. haha


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> yea thats what i wanted to do but if it downclocks to a lower speed then 3.5 when using a turbo of 4.5 id rather just stick with what iv got. but use offset mode cuz aparently thats better then manual..im still lost with it though.lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stevoandaredk5*
> 
> Why does it matter what speed it downclocks to? As soon as you open a program it will speed up to match the workload. It only downclocked like that for me when I had nothing open or running and let it sit at the desktop.
> 
> As for how to set up offset mode, hopefully Dubbed or someone can explain it to us. haha


Morta:
Get a stable 4.5ghz at a lower voltage first.
Then we will talk about offset.
And THEN You can paly around with your windows power options -> which is the downclocking you are referring to









My CPU fluctuates between 1.6GHZ and 4.5ghz depending on usage


----------



## morta

k well iv had it at 4.5 and 1.24v all day no crasehs been using dolphin emulator.its extremly cpu independent. and playing verious games like farcry 3 and so on seems totaly fine.i will try lowering the cpu volt to the ranges between 1.210 and 1.240 with ultra high LLC hopfully find the sweet spot were i can run prim for 8 hours and report back in the morning and go from there. thanks again dubs and other people youv been alot of help


----------



## jktmas

Guys help plz, boss has my multipler for my 3570k at 38 but when i boot into windows 7 pro 64bit it says I'm at 3.4ghz, any suggestions?


----------



## morta

got a crash on 1.225 but i dont no what the bsods meen.anyone no? thay dont seem to be listed in the common error code list for overclocking. 0x0000003B (0X00000000C0000005 0XFFFFF80002C59948, 0XFFFFF88009512A80 0X0000000000


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Guys help plz, boss has my multipler for my 3570k at 38 but when i boot into windows 7 pro 64bit it says I'm at 3.4ghz, any suggestions?


In the bios you have one of the CPU settings set to AUTO - that's the reason it is doing that.
Also do bear in mind that @3.8 you are within turbo range, thus you aren't actually OC'ing with a 3.8 ratio
If you try going above 40 you'll then be seeing some improvements and turbo being ignored.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> got a crash on 1.225 but i dont no what the bsods meen.anyone no? thay dont seem to be listed in the common error code list for overclocking. 0x0000003B (0X00000000C0000005 0XFFFFF80002C59948, 0XFFFFF88009512A80 0X0000000000


pretty sure that's more vcore needed.


----------



## morta

ok well i left it on last night at 1.23v woke up today prime was still runing so i stoped it.workers 1 completed 958 tests worker 4 completed 950 tests but worker 2 dropt out and only completed 210 tests and 3 seemd of dropt out but dosent say how meny tests it completed they allso both have 1 error and hardware faliur but i dont no what it is as windows seems to be frozenaswell but mouse still working and can oporate around programs that i left open.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok well i left it on last night at 1.23v woke up today prime was still runing so i stoped it.workers 1 completed 958 tests worker 4 completed 950 tests but worker 2 dropt out and only completed 210 tests and 3 seemd of dropt out but dosent say how meny tests it completed they allso both have 1 error and hardware faliur but i dont no what it is as windows seems to be frozenaswell but mouse still working and can oporate around programs that i left open.


If one worker stops, for any reason - you are not stable.
A stable system is one, where a worker will never, ever stop working. So as soon as one stops, stop prime, and increase vcore.
This is ocing, and again, this might be better suited in swags thread.


----------



## morta

ok thanks man. would it not be better to try and keep voltage at 1.23 but use LLC maximum setting insted or would that not work?


----------



## MotherFo

@Dubbed. Did you ever run into Whea errors on your quest for 4.5ghz?


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok thanks man. would it not be better to try and keep voltage at 1.23 but use LLC maximum setting insted or would that not work?


*morta*, a 4.5GHZ @ 1.25v is typical, so if you need to go up to that vcore, or even a bit higher, you are still where it should be for a IB. So increase your vcore some more and test again, and you can keep doing that until you find the vcore it is stable with - or you can just increase it to 1.25v and probably call it a day! And then start to use the system for whatever you like to do after some stabilty runs that probably will pass without any problems.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> @Dubbed. Did you ever run into Whea errors on your quest for 4.5ghz?


Never buddy. Only 4 bsods.


----------



## chillidog

4.5 here at 1.29v temps maxed out on one core 76,others at 68 to 69 prime 12 hrs stable. am going to leave it for a few day's and then try for 1.26v


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morta*
> 
> ok well i left it on last night at 1.23v woke up today prime was still runing so i stoped it.workers 1 completed 958 tests worker 4 completed 950 tests but worker 2 dropt out and only completed 210 tests and 3 seemd of dropt out but dosent say how meny tests it completed they allso both have 1 error and hardware faliur but i dont no what it is as windows seems to be frozenaswell but mouse still working and can oporate around programs that i left open.


if you getting errors and hardware failures this is down to your vcore voltage being low like many other have said to you increase the voltage if you don't your problem is going to get worse and you going pay the price.


----------



## Jared485

I have a question about my Sabertooth z77, just installed. I read in the manual that there was an "onboard" SSD that was about 18.5 GB's does the mobo use that or can i put programs on it. Also i was wondering if my OS would fit on it? Thanks for any help guys!


----------



## Elloquin

Pic?


----------



## Abenlog

What you read about is this:
Intel® Smart Response Technology boosts overall system performance. It uses an installed fast SSD (min 18.6GB available capacity required) as a cache for frequently accessed data. Key benefits include reduced load and wait times, and lower power consumption through the elimination of unnecessary hard drive spin. This technology combines SSD performance with hard drive capacity, operating up to 6X faster than a hard drive-only system.
via Asus website: Asus.com


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin*
> 
> Pic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> I have a question about my Sabertooth z77, just installed. I read in the manual that there was an "onboard" SSD that was about 18.5 GB's does the mobo use that or can i put programs on it. Also i was wondering if my OS would fit on it? Thanks for any help guys!


Looks like Jared is referring to this:



There is no built-in SSD on the Z77 Sabertooth, this is simply an Intel tech you can use if you have both an HDD and SSD.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/solid-state-drives/ssd-smart-response-video.html


----------



## Jared485

Ah yes that is what I read! Thank you for clarifying! Also noob here, another question I have is do I need an OS to get into my UEFI? I'm almost done with my build and was wondering if I could get some setting setup. Thanks again!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

I all but given up on hitting 4.5 with this board. Using an offset as high as 0.050 it will not give stability.

4.4 is stable in all bench marks and can run 24hrs of Prime, All games run prefect but BF3 will hard lock and freeze from time to time.

I have settled on 4.2 with an offset of 0.010 but can get stability on 0.005.

Guys with the 3570k don't forget a lot of the others are using the 3770k to get 4.5 this is a different chip and overclocks better.

Still love the board beside the crappy software that came with it.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I all but given up on hitting 4.5 with this board. Using an offset as high as 0.050 it will not give stability.
> 4.4 is stable in all bench marks and can run 24hrs of Prime, All games run prefect but BF3 will hard lock and freeze from time to time.
> I have settled on 4.2 with an offset of 0.010 but can get stability on 0.005.
> Guys with the 3570k don't forget a lot of the others are using the 3770k to get 4.5 this is a different chip and overclocks better.
> Still love the board beside the crappy software that came with it.


And what does +.050 give you under load?

I've got a crappy 3570K, it needs 1.344 under load for 45x.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I all but given up on hitting 4.5 with this board. Using an offset as high as 0.050 it will not give stability.
> 
> 4.4 is stable in all bench marks and can run 24hrs of Prime, All games run prefect but BF3 will hard lock and freeze from time to time.
> 
> I have settled on 4.2 with an offset of 0.010 but can get stability on 0.005.
> 
> Guys with the 3570k don't forget a lot of the others are using the 3770k to get 4.5 this is a different chip and overclocks better.
> 
> Still love the board beside the crappy software that came with it.


am 4.5 with offset -45 @ 1.29v stable and i am a hard bf3 player with no problems playing the game so far

 

we all agree on crappy software that came with it accept asus


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I all but given up on hitting 4.5 with this board. Using an offset as high as 0.050 it will not give stability.
> 4.4 is stable in all bench marks and can run 24hrs of Prime, All games run prefect but BF3 will hard lock and freeze from time to time.
> I have settled on 4.2 with an offset of 0.010 but can get stability on 0.005.
> Guys with the 3570k don't forget a lot of the others are using the 3770k to get 4.5 this is a different chip and overclocks better.
> Still love the board beside the crappy software that came with it.
> 
> 
> 
> And what does +.050 give you under load?
> 
> I've got a crappy 3570K, it needs 1.344 under load for 45x.
Click to expand...

i found that i can get 4.7 with 1.34v/1.35v thats with 12 hrs prime stable


----------



## Maylene

I am considering this board for a new build, I was at frys looking at it and noticed it looked pretty small. Is this board smaller then a standard ATX board? I seems like the other ASUS ATX boards are larger (in length and width).

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i found that i can get 4.7 with 1.34v/1.35v thats with 12 hrs prime stable


Thanks for the bios screenshots ChillDog,
Looks same as settings I have gone for out of interest do you have a shot of your Digi+, Just so I can compare.

Thanks mate.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maylene*
> 
> I am considering this board for a new build, I was at frys looking at it and noticed it looked pretty small. Is this board smaller then a standard ATX board? I seems like the other ASUS ATX boards are larger (in length and width).
> 
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


No. It seems the same size as any ATX, including the last two I used in the same case.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If you want to oc effectively..start on manual vcore


----------



## chillidog

hope this helps


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I recognize the above ;D


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I recognize the above ;D


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> hope this helps


Thanks guys + rep for both of you will give it a whirl 1 more time and keep pumping voltage until she is stable.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Thanks guys + rep for both of you will give it a whirl 1 more time and keep pumping voltage until she is stable.


Let us know how it goes buddy


----------



## iARDAs

Somethingfunny going on

I set my multiplier to 45 for several times, hit enter and save but when my PC starts both on CPUz and Core Temp, my multiplier is 42.

Whats up with that?


----------



## Elloquin

If it's the latest bios this happened to me. Set whatever you want and the multi sticks at 42. I know it sounds odd but I enabled speed step rebooted then disabled it again and it posted the proper multi.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin*
> 
> If it's the latest bios this happened to me. Set whatever you want and the multi sticks at 42. I know it sounds odd but I enabled speed step rebooted then disabled it again and it posted the proper multi.


wow weird. Let me try that.


----------



## iARDAs

It didnt work ;(

I set Load Optimized Defaults

SpeedStep was already enabled.

I disabled it, reboot.

than tried. No luck.

Than enabled agan, still no luck.

Multiplier is stuck at 4.2


----------



## Elloquin

Lemme run to grab the settings I am using. I remember having to mass with the c-states as well. BRB


----------



## Brenton

Hi,

I am currently running at 4.6 on my 3770k with everything on auto except for the turbo ratio which is set to 46 on all cores (and Ai Overclock Tuner is set to: xmp profile 1 for my ram at 1866, 9,9,9,27,2t).

Everything seems to run great atm. Should I be using manual overclocking settings instead, or are Asus auto settings ok long term?

Thanks


----------



## iARDAs

@ Elloquin

Thanks mate but no luck.

I loaded optimized defaults again. Did no Ocing and my CPU multiplier is still 42 at Core Temp and CPU-Z


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Somethingfunny going on
> 
> I set my multiplier to 45 for several times, hit enter and save but when my PC starts both on CPUz and Core Temp, my multiplier is 42.
> 
> Whats up with that?


looks like asus needs to do another bios update,i just tried to go from 4.5 to 4.6 press f10 to save went back into the bios just to check if it had saved the settings then f10 again into windows
started cpu-z and it still shows am on 4.5 but in the bios its got 4.6??
if i can remember this happen to me before and i had to use the jumper to reset everything and restart all my oc settings again


----------



## iARDAs

I actually solved the problem.

I just updated the bios again.

It was already in the latest bios but just flashed the same file agian.

Now it works.


----------



## Trip99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I all but given up on hitting 4.5 with this board. Using an offset as high as 0.050 it will not give stability.
> 4.4 is stable in all bench marks and can run 24hrs of Prime, All games run prefect but BF3 will hard lock and freeze from time to time.
> I have settled on 4.2 with an offset of 0.010 but can get stability on 0.005.
> Guys with the 3570k don't forget a lot of the others are using the 3770k to get 4.5 this is a different chip and overclocks better.
> Still love the board beside the crappy software that came with it.


I have a 3570 and I just updated to latest BIOS (I was two behind) and found to my surprise I could simply up my multiplier to 45 from 44 and it worked without changing the offset (+0.005) I was using for 4.4 Load was at 1.318V and peak temperature of 46 under prime. I have not yet done a 24 hr test mind but it looks promising for going even higher


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I actually solved the problem.
> 
> I just updated the bios again.
> 
> It was already in the latest bios but just flashed the same file agian.
> 
> Now it works.


i just sent asus a reponse to this problem as to me it down to their bios update and we await for their answer.
as to me i think i wait from asus before trying to reflash the bios just incase anything get screwed up. just being safe on my side


----------



## Jasebrooks

Hello.

I was hoping someone could help me.

I am trying to change to boot logo on my Z77 but every time I try an image, it just shows a blank screen then boots up normal.

I have tried many picture formats and resolutions. Nothing seems to work.

If anyone could take a moment to tell me what picture format and resolution to use or even a link to a logo picture that will work,
it would be GREATLY appreciated. I am using the AI suite II to reflash the bios.

Have an awesome summer!

Jase.


----------



## Jasebrooks

Moar help needed....

I can't get the HDMI port to work on the board. Only can get a display using a graphics card (I am borrowing my sisters graphics card, but she is going to want it back soon).
How can I enable the HDMI port. Cause windows can't find it, it must be true? Anyway I hope to get the HDMI port working because I just bought a hdmi/vga adapter for my COLBY television.

Any info on how to use the HDMI port would make me very happy.

May the force be with you,
Jase.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> Moar help needed....
> I can't get the HDMI port to work on the board. Only can get a display using a graphics card (I am borrowing my sisters graphics card, but she is going to want it back soon).
> How can I enable the HDMI port. Cause windows can't find it, it must be true? Anyway I hope to get the HDMI port working because I just bought a hdmi/vga adapter for my COLBY television.
> Any info on how to use the HDMI port would make me very happy.
> May the force be with you,
> Jase.


Have you tried unplugging the gfx, and then trying? As the video output is probably being routed to your gfx rather than motherboard.

As for your bios image, I don't really know, but are you doing it via ai suite ii & more so are you running the latest bios and latest ai suite ii?


----------



## Jasebrooks

[Have you tried unplugging the gfx?
*Yep, I get no video output.*

Are you running the latest bios and latest ai suite ii?
*Yep, Only time I can get a startup logo is when I reflash without changing the logo (It's the default logo).*

My sister wants her card back tomorrow, ASUS not getting a Christmas card next year.

My paper route salary not enuff to buy a graphics card.



Thank you trying to help thou, you rock!

Jase.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> [Have you tried unplugging the gfx?
> *Yep, I get no video output.*
> Are you running the latest bios and latest ai suite ii?
> *Yep, Only time I can get a startup logo is when I reflash without changing the logo (It's the default logo).*
> My sister wants her card back tomorrow, ASUS not getting a Christmas card next year.
> My paper route salary not enuff to buy a graphics card.
> 
> Thank you trying to help thou, you rock!
> Jase.


That's odd man...I know you said about different pictures and different sizes. But what about different of pictures? Ie. Png vs jpeg?

And a pleasure man


----------



## Jasebrooks

Tried jpeg and bmp at 640*480 pixels with 24 and 256 bit color. -> FAIL

I never tried using a png file. I will try it now... fingers crossed.

...Mylogo will not accept png files.

I wish Yoda was here to help me.
-Jase


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> Tried jpeg and bmp at 640*480 pixels with 24 and 256 bit color. -> FAIL
> I never tried using a png file. I will try it now... fingers crossed.
> ...Mylogo will not accept png files.
> I wish Yoda was here to help me.
> -Jase


What a mother lover of a program!
Don't know man sorry :/


----------



## Jasebrooks

It occurred to me to try using an older bios (Version 1616) to use Mylogo with. Well my picture is now showing up on boot.
Also, I now am able to use the HDMI port on the mother board without a graphics card.



I giving my sisters card back now.

So maybe the lastest bios has some issues with Mylogo and the HDMI port, no?
Anyways, all is fine now.

Thanks for helping me.

There is safety in numbers,
Jase


----------



## Garming

Does anyone know how to set my cpu fan past 600 rpm? My Hyper 212+ used to spin at 1200rpm on my asrock extreme 4, but I am having trouble increasing its rpm and it never passes 700rpm while using the sabertooth.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Hey guys!! mind if i join this owners thread/club??







here's my not so done rig


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> It occurred to me to try using an older bios (Version 1616) to use Mylogo with. Well my picture is now showing up on boot.
> Also, I now am able to use the HDMI port on the mother board without a graphics card.
> 
> 
> 
> I giving my sisters card back now.
> 
> So maybe the lastest bios has some issues with Mylogo and the HDMI port, no?
> Anyways, all is fine now.
> 
> Thanks for helping me.
> 
> There is safety in numbers,
> Jase


Good to hear *Jase*!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Does anyone know how to set my cpu fan past 600 rpm? My Hyper 212+ used to spin at 1200rpm on my asrock extreme 4, but I am having trouble increasing its rpm and it never passes 700rpm while using the sabertooth.


There are settings in BIOS under monitor that you can check. Also, there is the Asus fan control under AI Suite II, Thremal Radar, fan settings to check.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> Hey guys!! mind if i join this owners thread/club??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's my not so done rig


Welcome aboard! Nic looking build so far. Let us see it again once you get it completed *ervhamzz213*!


----------



## Lesiunta

New Drivers are out, boys!

GeForce 310.90 Driver

http://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/55121


----------



## iARDAs

How can I take Screenshots of the UEFI?


----------



## chillidog

the way i do it is that you need a usb stick,place it in your pc and restart pc into the bios.when in the bios press f12 and click ok
do this to each screen of the bios section you need to take a snap shot off


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> the way i do it is that you need a usb stick,place it in your pc and restart pc into the bios.when in the bios press f12 and click ok
> do this to each screen of the bios section you need to take a snap shot off


I will give this a try bro.

Thanks


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have no experience with RAID - but my sata 3 port works well with my HDD's and SSD
> .


It was the vector ssd, the new one i got to add to array died after a few days use.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OcSlave*
> 
> It was the vector ssd, the new one i got to add to array died after a few days use.


oh dayme - did u manage to get it replaced?
And all is good?


----------



## Bdonedge

Hey this may be a stupid question but ill ask anyway. So I got the board but I have my ram coming. I ordered the corsair 16gb 4x4gb that was on the supported memory list for the mobo but I saw someone say that the ram was quad channel not dual channel, will all 4 sticks work if used in pairs in the dual channel slots that this mobo has?


----------



## jktmas

4.1 ghz on 3570k with stock intel cooler thanks for the help guys.

Is my Vcore to low? i cant run p95:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Hey this may be a stupid question but ill ask anyway. So I got the board but I have my ram coming. I ordered the corsair 16gb 4x4gb that was on the supported memory list for the mobo but I saw someone say that the ram was quad channel not dual channel, will all 4 sticks work if used in pairs in the dual channel slots that this mobo has?


Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but it should work without a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> 4.1 ghz on 3570k with stock intel cooler thanks for the help guys.


What help are you seeking dude?


----------



## jktmas

first i was saying thanks for helping me get past it sticking to 3.4 in the bios, then im also asking if thats enough vcore or if im doing something else wrong


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> first i was saying thanks for helping me get past it sticking to 3.4 in the bios, then im also asking if thats enough vcore or if im doing something else wrong


well...in all honest no (if thats your vcore under load)
Have you been running prime 95 at all?

Here's a good guide for you (with my BIOS settings in the OP):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Hey this may be a stupid question but ill ask anyway. So I got the board but I have my ram coming. I ordered the corsair 16gb 4x4gb that was on the supported memory list for the mobo but I saw someone say that the ram was quad channel not dual channel, will all 4 sticks work if used in pairs in the dual channel slots that this mobo has?


I am using 4x4GB ram in my system. It works fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> 4.1 ghz on 3570k with stock intel cooler thanks for the help guys.
> 
> Is my Vcore to low? i cant run p95:


When you run p95 what happens? If it dies, or your system BSODs, then you may need a bit more vcore.

I noticed you have a 40x multiplier, but you also have your Bus Speed at 103.02. It would be better if you set Bus to 100.0 in BIOS and moved your multiplier to 41x. Then see what it does. If it still does not run, bump your vcore like 0.01-0.05v or so and see if it runs. Keep bumping until it does. Then you can consider lowering it a bit if you were bumping by 0.05v. Otherwise, you are probably where you need to be. Then check some other programs (IBT, Cinebench, Heaven, 3Dmark11) and the programs & games you like to use.


----------



## Charlieboy

Hey all,
I've been trying to do some research through this forum, and have gotten some very valuable information. I did a search on this thread to find out people talking about the Vengeance, and I'm getting some hit or misses. Was thinking of installing 4 x 8gb 1600 (PC3 12800)'s. I read that Totally Dubbed wish he got the Dominator's, but that's a bit out of my budget, as I would prefer to have 32gb's. My setup is going as followed:

Core: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
MB: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 (duh)
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Fan: ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
Power: [haven't decided]
Graphics: [haven' decided...might put this off...]
Monitor: [I would like two, but I see the Saber only has 1 HDMI, and 1 Display-Port. Must I acquire a PCI for duel/trip monitors??

## If anyone would alter any of these for another, feel free to send feedback.
Thanks you everyone.


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi all
I have a question in the saber tooth bios I think it in the advance options
under sata
any way it called Hot plug settings should I enable them on my drives listed

I have a corsair gt 120 ssd 1 500gig wd and 1 wd 2tb drive and a dvd drive

not sure if I should enable hot plug and not sure what it does


----------



## Garming

Finally got my 3570k to 4.5, but it saddens me that it now requires 1.29/1.3v to achieve it. My z77 extreme 4 only needed 1.26. But I am happy with the board in regards to the fan controls and aesthetics.


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Hey all,
> I've been trying to do some research through this forum, and have gotten some very valuable information. I did a search on this thread to find out people talking about the Vengeance, and I'm getting some hit or misses. Was thinking of installing 4 x 8gb 1600 (PC3 12800)'s. I read that Totally Dubbed wish he got the Dominator's, but that's a bit out of my budget, as I would prefer to have 32gb's. My setup is going as followed:
> Core: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
> MB: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 (duh)
> RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
> Fan: ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
> Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
> Power: [haven't decided]
> Graphics: [haven' decided...might put this off...]
> Monitor: [I would like two, but I see the Saber only has 1 HDMI, and 1 Display-Port. Must I acquire a PCI for duel/trip monitors??
> ## If anyone would alter any of these for another, feel free to send feedback.
> Thanks you everyone.


Seeing how power efficient gfx cards are nowadays, I think a 650w psu would be nice for that build. It gives you room to overclock your components and if you ever decide on a gfx card, it should be more than enough for any single card setup and almost any SLI/CF setup. Also make sure you grab a psu with a reputable company known for their psu (Corsair, seasonic, PC power and cooling, and antec to name some)

I would also consider another CPU cooler other than the CNP 9500. A Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a cheaper solution and off the top of my head, I believe it performs better also.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Hey all,
> I've been trying to do some research through this forum, and have gotten some very valuable information. I did a search on this thread to find out people talking about the Vengeance, and I'm getting some hit or misses. Was thinking of installing 4 x 8gb 1600 (PC3 12800)'s. I read that Totally Dubbed wish he got the Dominator's, but that's a bit out of my budget, as I would prefer to have 32gb's. My setup is going as followed:
> Core: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
> MB: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 (duh)
> RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
> Fan: ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
> Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
> Power: [haven't decided]
> Graphics: [haven' decided...might put this off...]
> Monitor: [I would like two, but I see the Saber only has 1 HDMI, and 1 Display-Port. Must I acquire a PCI for duel/trip monitors??
> ## If anyone would alter any of these for another, feel free to send feedback.
> Thanks you everyone.


Hi there!

Ok - the reason I said that, and even why a friend told me to get the dominator over the vengeance is because we both don't use more than 6GB RAM (gaming) let alone 16gb.

For Cooling - I would go for liquid cooling on the i7 - the antec 920 and corsair h100 (especially if you plan to OC)
For power - this depends if you get a GFX or not: If there is no GFX then 550-650w is enough, however if you get a gfx, then 650-850w is recommended
For monitor - Could you not get a splitter to do this? I did think of DVI over HDMI - seeing as they are both digital signals, the picture won't differ. Unless you want sound to be transmitted too, that's where HDMI has the advantage.
Thus I would suggest getting a DVI splitter, and doing your split - however one should note that that will redner two of the same screen.
If you really want to do a dual display, then you could do HDMI + display port (however it might be a pain finding monitors that are display port compatible) and/or my suggested DVI + HDMI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi all
> I have a question in the saber tooth bios I think it in the advance options
> under sata
> any way it called Hot plug settings should I enable them on my drives listed
> I have a corsair gt 120 ssd 1 500gig wd and 1 wd 2tb drive and a dvd drive
> not sure if I should enable hot plug and not sure what it does


Hotplug is simple:
It allows you to unplug your HDD/SSD whilst the drive is running, without corrupting it. See it as a way of enabling plug and play within the PC.
But realistically, are you going to do that?
I don't and don't know of anyone, apart from people who own server based PC's that do that.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Finally got my 3570k to 4.5, but it saddens me that it now requires 1.29/1.3v to achieve it. My z77 extreme 4 only needed 1.26. But I am happy with the board in regards to the fan controls and aesthetics.


on mine 3570k for 4.5 had to go for 1.29/1.3v same as you but the temps is well within,i have now gone for 4.6 at 1.33/1.34v anything below was not stable but still again temps are ok .one core max out at 81 while the others was 72,76,79
but have to say this motherboard looks good and feels great.


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I actually solved the problem.
> 
> I just updated the bios again.
> 
> It was already in the latest bios but just flashed the same file agian.
> 
> Now it works.


Dunno mate lol...Picked up a 3770k over the weekend in place of the 3750 i was using. Was on bios 1708. Multi wouldn't set correctly stuck at 4.2. I was also getting weird reboots and it looked like the board was auto overclocking itself without actually setting the option in the bios. Flashed back to 1616 better lol but this time board was locked at 4.8. Finally got fed up and flashed back to 1403 board seems fine since then. Currently running 50 x 100 @1.35v BIOS 1.384 load.


----------



## CODELESS

Hi there guys !!!!

ok so i have been reading the thread for a very long time. i started reading when i was hunting down new parts for a new computer.
upgrading from LGA775 to LGA1155
about 6 months ago i started looking , and saw the Sabertooth Z77 and it looked so sexy !
so started reading up on reviews and all, and stumbled onto this thread. i have not stopped reading this thread ever since.
well after selling all my toys and working 2 jobs i finally spoiled myself this passed christmas.
say hello to my "dream machine"

Corsair carbide 400R
Asus Sabertooth z77
i5 3570k
Corsair H100i liquid cooler
Corsair vengeance 2400mhz 2x4GB (a2.b2)
560GTX AMP
Corsair TX850 power supply
2x250GB 7200rpm HDD Raid0 (going to upgrade to 2x128GB OCZ vertex4 SSD)


----------



## CODELESS

ok, so now i have my PC and good cooling.

i wanna see if i can overclock this cpu a little.all i know about overclocking is the multiplier and the frequency
all this vcore and ppl and voltages scare me a little, would like if some one can help me or tell me how the vocre and all the other things work in relation to when you up the multiplier and so forth.
my ultimate goal would be to see what the max this cpu can do. i saw a guy post a 5.1ghz on that comp that is running at the moment. but im sure the H100i wont match up to his cooler, thats why im thinking hey, i could stick it in my freezer to cool it more........


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Hey this may be a stupid question but ill ask anyway. So I got the board but I have my ram coming. I ordered the corsair 16gb 4x4gb that was on the supported memory list for the mobo but I saw someone say that the ram was quad channel not dual channel, will all 4 sticks work if used in pairs in the dual channel slots that this mobo has?


There is no such thing as dual channel and quad channel RAM. Only Dual and Quad channel motherboards. All RAM is the same, "Quad Channel Ram" will work just the same as "Dual Channel RAM" on a Dual Channel motherboard and "Dual Channel Ram" will work in Quad Channel motherboards at quad channel mode.

Its purely a marketing thing and maybe also to help the less informed by simplifying to some degree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Hey all,
> I've been trying to do some research through this forum, and have gotten some very valuable information. I did a search on this thread to find out people talking about the Vengeance, and I'm getting some hit or misses. Was thinking of installing 4 x 8gb 1600 (PC3 12800)'s. I read that Totally Dubbed wish he got the Dominator's, but that's a bit out of my budget, as I would prefer to have 32gb's. My setup is going as followed:
> Core: Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core
> MB: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 (duh)
> RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
> Fan: ZALMAN CNPS9500A-LED 92mm 2 Ball CPU Cooler
> Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 650D
> Power: [haven't decided]
> Graphics: [haven' decided...might put this off...]
> Monitor: [I would like two, but I see the Saber only has 1 HDMI, and 1 Display-Port. Must I acquire a PCI for duel/trip monitors??
> ## If anyone would alter any of these for another, feel free to send feedback.
> Thanks you everyone.


If you want to use dual monitors with the onboard graphics you will need either an HDMI and a DP monitor or just use adaptors like DP to DVI adaptors and HDMI to DVI adaptors. I have a DP and an HDMI monitor and was running dual monitors on onboard graphics for a while.
For triple monitors you will obviously need a graphics card.

32 GB of ram is sort of a waste if you are not running Virtual machines or rendering ... you will just never use that much any other way.
Vengence RAM is cheap and does what RAM is supposed too. I don't personally see the point in paying hundreds of dollars for expensive RAM that gives only a very tiny gain on anything but benchmarks.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no such thing as dual channel and quad channel RAM. Only Dual and Quad channel motherboards. All RAM is the same, "Quad Channel Ram" will work just the same as "Dual Channel RAM" on a Dual Channel motherboard and "Dual Channel Ram" will work in Quad Channel motherboards at quad channel mode.
> Its purely a marketing thing and maybe also to help the less informed by simplifying to some degree.
> If you want to use dual monitors with the onboard graphics you will need either an HDMI and a DP monitor or just use adaptors like DP to DVI adaptors and HDMI to DVI adaptors. I have a DP and an HDMI monitor and was running dual monitors on onboard graphics for a while.
> For triple monitors you will obviously need a graphics card.


Sure it doesn't exist?

http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9.html

http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-16gb-quad-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4x1600c9.html

I'm curious to understand the difference


----------



## Charlieboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hi there!
> Ok - the reason I said that, and even why a friend told me to get the dominator over the vengeance is because we both don't use more than 6GB RAM (gaming) let alone 16gb.
> For Cooling - I would go for liquid cooling on the i7 - the antec 920 and corsair h100 (especially if you plan to OC)
> For power - this depends if you get a GFX or not: If there is no GFX then 550-650w is enough, however if you get a gfx, then 650-850w is recommended
> For monitor - Could you not get a splitter to do this? I did think of DVI over HDMI - seeing as they are both digital signals, the picture won't differ. Unless you want sound to be transmitted too, that's where HDMI has the advantage.
> Thus I would suggest getting a DVI splitter, and doing your split - however one should note that that will redner two of the same screen.
> If you really want to do a dual display, then you could do HDMI + display port (however it might be a pain finding monitors that are display port compatible) and/or my suggested DVI + HDMI
> Hotplug is simple:
> It allows you to unplug your HDD/SSD whilst the drive is running, without corrupting it. See it as a way of enabling plug and play within the PC.
> But realistically, are you going to do that?
> I don't and don't know of anyone, apart from people who own server based PC's that do that.


Before I forget, Thank you for your assistance!
I'll let you know how everything turns out my good man.

# Will be lurking this forum for info.


----------



## Charlieboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Seeing how power efficient gfx cards are nowadays, I think a 650w psu would be nice for that build. It gives you room to overclock your components and if you ever decide on a gfx card, it should be more than enough for any single card setup and almost any SLI/CF setup. Also make sure you grab a psu with a reputable company known for their psu (Corsair, seasonic, PC power and cooling, and antec to name some)
> I would also consider another CPU cooler other than the CNP 9500. A Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is a cheaper solution and off the top of my head, I believe it performs better also.


Thank you for your assistance and help.
This thread is definitely becoming a huge fragment in my build/experience.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Before I forget, Thank you for your assistance!
> I'll let you know how everything turns out my good man.
> # Will be lurking this forum for info.


That's quite aright amigo!
I look forward to hearing the results!


----------



## Trip99

Hi all, I have my 3570 stable at 4.5 and I am now pushing for 4.6. My first tests are not causing BSODs but the CPU speed is throttling back to 1600 about half way through wPrime 1024. I know that the CPU will throttle back when the temperature gets too high (PROCHOT) but my temps seem fine so is there anything else that triggers a throttle back?


----------



## derWalter

okay i am in a big trouble situation right now...

i just switched case and my system want boot anymore.

reason: ram

i cant use b1 and b2 ram banks.

ram used: g.skill trident x 2400 10-1-12-31 32gig kit

everything was running fine before i switched case,
so i loaded bios defaults, but if i put just 1 ram into bank b1 or b2
it hangs with red led and tells me overclocking failed

BUT

if i put one or even two piece of g.skill 128000 7-8-7-24 1.35 2x4gb
into the banks, it boots without problem 

just switched case and changed tim and switched
from delid to bare die cooling....

ofc i rotated the ram...

some clues?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trip99*
> 
> Hi all, I have my 3570 stable at 4.5 and I am now pushing for 4.6. My first tests are not causing BSODs but the CPU speed is throttling back to 1600 about half way through wPrime 1024. I know that the CPU will throttle back when the temperature gets too high (PROCHOT) but my temps seem fine so is there anything else that triggers a throttle back?


Power options in PC.
But even on prime...it should NOT be throttling down...unless you got MAX CPU state as something else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derWalter*
> 
> okay i am in a big trouble situation right now...
> i just switched case and my system want boot anymore.
> reason: ram
> i cant use b1 and b2 ram banks.
> ram used: g.skill trident x 2400 10-1-12-31 32gig kit
> everything was running fine before i switched case,
> so i loaded bios defaults, but if i put just 1 ram into bank b1 or b2
> it hangs with red led and tells me overclocking failed
> BUT
> if i put one or even two piece of g.skill 128000 7-8-7-24 1.35 2x4gb
> into the banks, it boots without problem
> just switched case and changed tim and switched
> from delid to bare die cooling....
> ofc i rotated the ram...
> some clues?


Board failure, Board BIOS, board incompatibility
I had the same issue back on my P5K premium, and USELESS f'in asus scammed me £70 for RMA'ing it 3x.
Ended up figuring the problem myself:
BIOS was out dates for the CPU/RAM I had in, and thus wouldn't run dual channel RAM in A1 + B1 slots (for example)
I do hate asus with a passion.


----------



## derWalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Power options in PC.
> But even on prime...it should NOT be throttling down...unless you got MAX CPU state as something else.
> Board failure, Board BIOS, board incompatibility
> I had the same issue back on my P5K premium, and USELESS f'in asus scammed me £70 for RMA'ing it 3x.
> Ended up figuring the problem myself:
> BIOS was out dates for the CPU/RAM I had in, and thus wouldn't run dual channel RAM in A1 + B1 slots (for example)
> I do hate asus with a passion.


but everything ran without problems before switching cases.

an other problem just occured to me:

my areca 1213 4i raidcontroller card tells me pci bus test failed! at boot on all 16x pcie slots...
but it boots up, checks but dosent find the disks attached to it... whats happeing here


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derWalter*
> 
> but everything ran without problems before switching cases.
> an other problem just occured to me:
> my areca 1213 4i raidcontroller card tells me pci bus test failed! at boot on all 16x pcie slots...
> but it boots up, checks but dosent find the disks attached to it... whats happeing here


I got an idea - re-flash the BIOS/clear CMOS
Seems like something isn't quite right here


----------



## derWalter

will do, just a sec


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:
just switched case and changed tim and switched
from delid to bare die cooling....
Quote:
You know removing the IHS altogether makes the die _further_ away from the base of the block. Most people sand the socket because of this when going bare die. This would explain all sorts of general wonkiness. For the results put the IHS back on lol. there's not much of a difference.


----------



## derWalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elloquin*
> 
> just switched case and changed tim and switched
> from delid to bare die cooling....
> You know removing the IHS altogether makes the die _further_ away from the base of the block. Most people sand the socket because of this when going bare die. This would explain all sorts of general wonkiness. For the results put the IHS back on lol. there's not much of a difference.


31C° idle temp in bios, no matter if 5ghz or stock 3.5ghz

but if bios dosent work, i ll try this...


----------



## derWalter

biosflash didnt help, now going for reinstalling ihs, why not :/


----------



## derWalter

okay, i took away the waterblock, but the cpu stuck to it, so i put it back on and now its booting with all 4 banks filled with the right ram


----------



## derWalter

okay, pci bus works again too... perfekt.

boots again with 2400 mhz und 5ghz fine, but still no disks found :/ :/ :/ :/

they spin up bot dont show up, hope i didnt break anything









btw, i think i applied too much pressure to the waterblock.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derWalter*
> 
> okay, i took away the waterblock, but the cpu stuck to it, so i put it back on and now its booting with all 4 banks filled with the right ram


Quite odd I must say lol


----------



## derWalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quite odd I must say lol


gosh, and how odd it is... i just found out that all 4 hot swaps from my corsair d800 case
dont work... PHU, so my raid is still alive









should boot into windows and see my new temps...

i hope taking the cpu off the waterblock didnt lower the cooling capabillities of my liquid pro,
because i just put it right back, without whiping and reapplying it...


----------



## derWalter

OOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHH MYYYYYYYYYYYY GOOOOOOOOOOOOODDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!

temps dropped from 105 to 65 :OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 137 gflops...

i have to go and walk the dog -.- need some time off ... shocked...

5+ ghz i am coming 3770k btw

/edit/ those are ibt temps with 1.42 vcore,... and i had it stable before installing the new ram... so i guess now i can drop vcore even more and lower the temps further... or go up with clockspeed, as my cpu seems to be capable of doing more...was always head but not unstable blocked


----------



## Charlieboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no such thing as dual channel and quad channel RAM. Only Dual and Quad channel motherboards. All RAM is the same, "Quad Channel Ram" will work just the same as "Dual Channel RAM" on a Dual Channel motherboard and "Dual Channel Ram" will work in Quad Channel motherboards at quad channel mode.
> Its purely a marketing thing and maybe also to help the less informed by simplifying to some degree.
> If you want to use dual monitors with the onboard graphics you will need either an HDMI and a DP monitor or just use adaptors like DP to DVI adaptors and HDMI to DVI adaptors. I have a DP and an HDMI monitor and was running dual monitors on onboard graphics for a while.
> For triple monitors you will obviously need a graphics card.
> 32 GB of ram is sort of a waste if you are not running Virtual machines or rendering ... you will just never use that much any other way.
> Vengence RAM is cheap and does what RAM is supposed too. I don't personally see the point in paying hundreds of dollars for expensive RAM that gives only a very tiny gain on anything but benchmarks.


that is...exactly what i'm doing with it. Running multiple OS's.
purchased most my of it today. Going to look around for graphics cards now, and monitors. I spend more than I had projected...T_T
does this happen to all?


----------



## jktmas

evga eleet helped me oc in os tremendousely, now before you go hatin on me, i was able to take it from 81c to 55c just by changing some voltages and the multiplier by 1x


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> that is...exactly what i'm doing with it. Running multiple OS's.
> purchased most my of it today. Going to look around for graphics cards now, and monitors. I spend more than I had projected...T_T
> does this happen to all?


Haha, it can happen. I however, went super frugal on my parts and just bought them as they went on sale. I was practically on slickdeals half the day for a good 2 months (still kinda am). It's hard to find deals when you are eager to just buy everything to satisfy that itch to bring life to a beast.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sure it doesn't exist?
> http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9.html
> http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-16gb-quad-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4x1600c9.html
> I'm curious to understand the difference


The only difference between those kits is that the quad channel kit has been tested to work at those speeds on quad channel architecture and the dual channel kit tested on dual channel architecture.
The individual sticks are identical.
It's the same situation as with ram speeds, all ram is 1333 but it's sold as being faster because it is tested and matched at the faster overclocked speeds.

Look up dual and quad channel architecture and DDDR3. You will see the only requirements for each is a pair of sticks for dual and four sticks for quad.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sure it doesn't exist?
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4a1600c9.html
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/memory-by-product-family/vengeance/vengeance-16gb-quad-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmz16gx3m4x1600c9.html
> 
> I'm curious to understand the difference


The difference between the two, the dual-channel kit is tested & rated to work at dual-channel mode & the quad-channel kit is tested & rated to work at quad-channel mode. For sure you can run quad-channel kit in dual-channel mode if the IMC only support dual-channel but nowadays there is no guarantee the dual-channel kit will work in quad-channel mode (assuming IMC support quad-channel). I have seen several cases where dual-channel kit causing problem in X79 platform. Dual-channel kit may or may not work in quad-channel mode.


----------



## Jakusonfire

There is no guarantee that quad channel kits will work either. Getting four sticks to work together is always going to be harder than getting two to work together.

There is no hardware difference between kits sold as dual channel and quad channel is the point.


----------



## Charlieboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Haha, it can happen. I however, went super frugal on my parts and just bought them as they went on sale. I was practically on slickdeals half the day for a good 2 months (still kinda am). It's hard to find deals when you are eager to just buy everything to satisfy that itch to bring life to a beast.


So I'm not the only one who has this splinter in my mind, wanting to remedy the struggle of create a system.
This must be what woman talk about when they want to make those things called babies. ;D

I went to my local Computer Parts Store, (live in a major city),
and they had some prices cheaper than Newegg. Not only that,
they price matched me. No having to wait for shipping! DDDDDDDDDD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The difference between the two, the dual-channel kit is tested & rated to work at dual-channel mode & the quad-channel kit is tested & rated to work at quad-channel mode. For sure you can run quad-channel kit in dual-channel mode if the IMC only support dual-channel but nowadays there is no guarantee the dual-channel kit will work in quad-channel mode (assuming IMC support quad-channel). I have seen several cases where dual-channel kit causing problem in X79 platform. Dual-channel kit may or may not work in quad-channel mode.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no guarantee that quad channel kits will work either. Getting four sticks to work together is always going to be harder than getting two to work together.
> There is no hardware difference between kits sold as dual channel and quad channel is the point.


Plus rep to both of you for explaining!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derWalter*
> 
> okay i am in a big trouble situation right now...
> 
> i just switched case and my system want boot anymore.
> 
> reason: ram
> 
> i cant use b1 and b2 ram banks.
> 
> ram used: g.skill trident x 2400 10-1-12-31 32gig kit
> 
> everything was running fine before i switched case,
> so i loaded bios defaults, but if i put just 1 ram into bank b1 or b2
> it hangs with red led and tells me overclocking failed
> 
> BUT
> 
> if i put one or even two piece of g.skill 128000 7-8-7-24 1.35 2x4gb
> into the banks, it boots without problem
> 
> just switched case and changed tim and switched
> from delid to bare die cooling....
> 
> ofc i rotated the ram...
> 
> some clues?


try this
go into bios check if you still got your oc settings,if so change settings to stock f10 to save.reboot and then shut down.open case up turn the power swicth off and unplug look for rtc ram jumper you will find that the jumper is on 1&2
lift the jumper off and place it on 2&3 for about 12 sec's and then replace it back onto 1 &2.plug mains in and switch on then boot up.you may have to reflash the bios as well

you should find this to work, for some reason the bios has got a bug/glitch in it


----------



## derWalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> try this
> go into bios check if you still got your oc settings,if so change settings to stock f10 to save.reboot and then shut down.open case up turn the power swicth off and unplug look for rtc ram jumper you will find that the jumper is on 1&2
> lift the jumper off and place it on 2&3 for about 12 sec's and then replace it back onto 1 &2.plug mains in and switch on then boot up.you may have to reflash the bios as well
> you should find this to work, for some reason the bios has got a bug/glitch in it


its already running again, i just took the waterblock out and put it back on and now everything works great.

inlcuding a tempdrop of 40C° :O


----------



## Bdonedge

Alright so I got it up and running, I am coming from an AMD machine so all of these voltages and architecture is new to me.

I would like to OC to 4.2-4.3

I read the overclocking guide on here for ASUS mobos and intel CPU's but it doesn't explain why I am punching in the numbers I am. Is there a good place to start for voltage? What is voltage offset? are there any other voltages I need to take into consideration?

What other speeds for the motherboard should I look into? On an AMD machine, I bumped up the FSB, does that even exist on these? Thanks.

Links are also welcomed!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Alright so I got it up and running, I am coming from an AMD machine so all of these voltages and architecture is new to me.
> I would like to OC to 4.2-4.3
> I read the overclocking guide on here for ASUS mobos and intel CPU's but it doesn't explain why I am punching in the numbers I am. Is there a good place to start for voltage? What is voltage offset? are there any other voltages I need to take into consideration?
> What other speeds for the motherboard should I look into? On an AMD machine, I bumped up the FSB, does that even exist on these? Thanks.
> Links are also welcomed!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

This guide really explains everything
Start on manual, keep the bus to 100, and there we go


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
> This guide really explains everything
> Start on manual, keep the bus to 100, and there we go


thanks

if I make an adjustment and it doesn't POST is there an easier way to get back into the bios or do I have to clear the CMOS every time


----------



## Bdonedge

Also I know another user had a problem with boot time, I am experiencing the same issue. Anyone know what page that was or have ideas of stuff for me to try? All hardware is at fail safe defaults. I installed all the drivers necessary from the ASUS disk that came with the motherboard,


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> thanks
> if I make an adjustment and it doesn't POST is there an easier way to get back into the bios or do I have to clear the CMOS every time


It should post no matter what usually...You do have enough power in your PSU right?

There would be no other option that cmos'ing it, if you can't get it to POST
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Also I know another user had a problem with boot time, I am experiencing the same issue. Anyone know what page that was or have ideas of stuff for me to try? All hardware is at fail safe defaults. I installed all the drivers necessary from the ASUS disk that came with the motherboard,


I was one of them.
Boot time -> asus fan control service.

Open servises.msc, and look for the asus ones -> it is software related.
Before touching anything, open event viewer and check what's causing your boot time to be slow.


----------



## Elloquin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> thanks
> if I make an adjustment and it doesn't POST is there an easier way to get back into the bios or do I have to clear the CMOS every time


Power down. Hit the reset button three times in rapid succession, and then boot and it should post. This actually works on just about any Intel motherboard.


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> It should post no matter what usually...You do have enough power in your PSU right?
> There would be no other option that cmos'ing it, if you can't get it to POST
> I was one of them.
> Boot time -> asus fan control service.
> Open servises.msc, and look for the asus ones -> it is software related.
> Before touching anything, open event viewer and check what's causing your boot time to be slow.


I don't even have the asus fan control service installed, any other ideas?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I don't even have the asus fan control service installed, any other ideas?


You might not have it installed, but do u have ai suite 2 installed?
If so - again look in event viewer - it will give you the indications.


----------



## Bdonedge

I didn't install AS suit II, just the drivers on the disk one by one


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You might not have it installed, but do u have ai suite 2 installed?
> If so - again look in event viewer - it will give you the indications.


I'm in the event viewer right now and all it's telling me is "boot performance monitor" and "shutdown performance monitor" are having warnings and errors =/ doesn't tell me the software that is causing it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I'm in the event viewer right now and all it's telling me is "boot performance monitor" and "shutdown performance monitor" are having warnings and errors =/ doesn't tell me the software that is causing it


You sorted it out by time and date - do a print screen


----------



## Bdonedge

here ya go





http://imgur.com/lLfpz


----------



## Bdonedge

could it be a hardware error? maybe RAM or something?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> could it be a hardware error? maybe RAM or something?


Hmmm dunno that.
But go in custom view - adin events.

That's the one you want to be looking at.


----------



## Bdonedge

edited


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> okay here are those


Get rid of that image, as you have your IP there. Privacy first.

I think if you google it, it is domain related.
I had something similar as some point - have you got a workgroup setup?


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Get rid of that image, as you have your IP there. Privacy first.
> I think if you google it, it is domain related.
> I had something similar as some point - have you got a workgroup setup?


I do! I named this PC the same as my old one. think that matters? Should I try updating the LAN drivers or is that not really worth the trouble


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I do! I named this PC the same as my old one. think that matters? Should I try updating the LAN drivers or is that not really worth the trouble


hmmm not sure - I had loads of DNS problems and WORKGROUP errors when I re-installed my PC not long ago.
It was due to not having a workgroup setup.

Try googling your problems, without the IP (as that won't really apply to you) - and see what it comes up with.
Could well be that you have two pc,s with two same names, on one network.


----------



## BillLee3

Guess I don't know how to search....

Just got a Sabertooth Z77 with a 3770K. I'm following the Asus board over clock guide. Using newest drivers and utilities under Win8. Despite specifying multipliers of 45 the system always boots to 4100. I can change it in TurboV.

How do I force the boot to 4500? Thanks.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillLee3*
> 
> Guess I don't know how to search....
> Just got a Sabertooth Z77 with a 3770K. I'm following the Asus board over clock guide. Using newest drivers and utilities under Win8. Despite specifying multipliers of 45 the system always boots to 4100. I can change it in TurboV.
> How do I force the boot to 4500? Thanks.


Here's the OC guide:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

You got the same board and chip as me, thus copy and pasting those settings in the OP of that thread (my bios settings) should render you a stable OC.

I would ignore doing proper OCing via turboEV.


----------



## Bdonedge

Hey should I install intel rapid start technology software? Or Rapid store technology driver software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Hey should I install intel rapid start technology software? Or Rapid store technology driver software?


i would look them up anf see if you need them - useless for me.


----------



## Bdonedge

This is getting annoying! I have disabled hardware, uninstalled and updated drivers, still having error 100 and 200 in the event viewer. Open to any suggestions at this point...


----------



## BillLee3

Sorry, wasn't clear. That's the guide I'm following. I specify 45 in BIOS, it sticks through reboots, but system reports 4100 at desktop.

Other somewhat strange thing is how much I'm turning the voltage down. Runs way hot at 4500 at 1.2V (100+) - I have the 212+. Am currently running Prime95 blended for 1hr at 4500 at 1.175V and PLL at 1.5V. Temps hit 94 but are generally between 86 and 91.


----------



## Bdonedge

I guess the best way to describe what is going on is that my system is "hanging"

It does it during startup, it does it inside windows opening applications. did Memtest and memory seems okay


----------



## aupperk24

Motherboard: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth
CPU i5-3570k
RAM 16GB
Video Card GTX670

I have a 32GB Flash Drive and a 1TB External HD, both USB 3.0

I have a 2x USB 3.0 port in front of the case, and 4 that's directly on the motherboard.
I have a USB 2.0 printer and a USB 2.0 bluetooth mouse and keyboard connected

If i leave my External HD connected in the back, there's no problem.
If i have my External HD connected in the back and have the flashdrive connected in the back too, my cursor lags a lot.
If i have my Flash Drive connected to the front, the flash drive disconnects and reconnects when there's heavy usage(format or transfer of large files)
If i have my Flash drive connected in the back without the External HD, there's no problem.

I just put this computer together a week ago.

I'm using windows 8

I was told to get the Intel PCH drivers and the ASMedia Driver for usb 3.0, but I can't seem to find that on the ASUS website for Sabertooth z77

help please


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I guess the best way to describe what is going on is that my system is "hanging"
> It does it during startup, it does it inside windows opening applications. did Memtest and memory seems okay


As I said, services are making it slow down, or installed drivers that are trying to "start-up"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aupperk24*
> 
> Motherboard: ASUS Z77 Sabertooth
> I just put this computer together a week ago.
> I'm using windows 8
> I was told to get the Intel PCH drivers and the ASMedia Driver for usb 3.0, but I can't seem to find that on the ASUS website for Sabertooth z77
> help please


-Re-install drivers for mouse
-Update old drivers

Link:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1248928/asus-z77-series-information-thread-drivers-bioses-overclocking-reviews-updated-1-4

Can't think of anything else.


----------



## aupperk24

I think the problem is with the Intel PCH drivers, the ASMedia USB ports are working fine i think, but the Intel one all have problems. especially the one that's connected to the front port.

Following your link, i downloaded the Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver for the z77 Sabertooth. I couldn't install the driver, it gives me the error that "This computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software."


----------



## jktmas

wish i knew about the worse overclocks before i got this board







but it was my first intel board and like everyone else like me i went... OOH that one looks cool, sale? BUY BUY BUY!


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guy my bios is stuck at 4.5 even when I change it back to stock cpu-z and realtamp shows 4.5
I tried to do the bios flash back but did not work and I reset the cmos

even if I go to like 4.7 it shows 4.5

and I don't think the bios flash back is working from the ubs I know the light is suppose to flash off and on but it just stays on

I am on windows 8 does any one know if it work on windows 8

please help


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aupperk24*
> 
> I think the problem is with the Intel PCH drivers, the ASMedia USB ports are working fine i think, but the Intel one all have problems. especially the one that's connected to the front port.
> Following your link, i downloaded the Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver for the z77 Sabertooth. I couldn't install the driver, it gives me the error that "This computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software."


X86 vs X64 maybe?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> wish i knew about the worse overclocks before i got this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but it was my first intel board and like everyone else like me i went... OOH that one looks cool, sale? BUY BUY BUY!


Nothing wrong with the board.
EVERYTHING wrong with the software though.
But it is ASUS, you learn to know they suck balls - I knew so before and still bought a soundcard and motherboard from those "monkeys"


----------



## Elloquin

@bazinga69 It's not the board, I also hate the software...but this time i don't think it's the culprit. Windows 8 however probably is. If you have 7 install that. See if the problems persist.


----------



## BillLee3

Aha! Found this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1332078/motherboard-not-overclocking-cpu-asus-z77-sabertooth which talks about the last two bios revisions causing exactly my problem. I downgraded to 1508 or whatever and everything sticks now. Everything even makes more since 'cause the screens exactly match the guide. I'm now starting over with the overclock testing.

Note that the older bios I'm now using does not include any settings for core voltage/speed for the integrated GPU or anything about the Intella whatever for quick sync and I think that's what's changed. I'll eventually need to go to the newer bios to be able to use Intel's GPU hardware enhanced Quick Sync, correct?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi guy my bios is stuck at 4.5 even when I change it back to stock cpu-z and realtamp shows 4.5
> I tried to do the bios flash back but did not work and I reset the cmos
> 
> even if I go to like 4.7 it shows 4.5
> 
> and I don't think the bios flash back is working from the ubs I know the light is suppose to flash off and on but it just stays on
> 
> I am on windows 8 does any one know if it work on windows 8
> 
> please help


try this in post #4269 had the same problem worked ok after


----------



## Bdonedge

out of curiosity what drivers are you guys installing from the get go? I am having nothing but issues (Getting BSOD now, even did a fresh install of windows 7 and ONLY thing I installed were drivers from CD with mobo)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> out of curiosity what drivers are you guys installing from the get go? I am having nothing but issues (Getting BSOD now, even did a fresh install of windows 7 and ONLY thing I installed were drivers from CD with mobo)


that's the only things i installed too.
You are on stock, and not OC'ing and getting BSODs?
Could be something wrong...


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's the only things i installed too.
> You are on stock, and not OC'ing and getting BSODs?
> Could be something wrong...


Yeah fail safe defaults, no OCing. I uninstalled the Management Engine Interface and haven't had a BSOD yet. Is that a crucial piece of software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> Yeah fail safe defaults, no OCing. I uninstalled the Management Engine Interface and haven't had a BSOD yet. Is that a crucial piece of software?


I don't know what that is to be honest...but you shouldn't be getting BSOD's on stock - have you rana memtest86 for RAM?


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't know what that is to be honest...but you shouldn't be getting BSOD's on stock - have you rana memtest86 for RAM?


I have, even did prime95 and everything was great. zero errors


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I have, even did prime95 and everything was great. zero errors


dam it...don't know man :/


----------



## Bdonedge

this motherboard doesn't have some weird feature where you can't turn it right back on does it? It stalls when I press the power on button. It's like a good 3 seconds until it actually turns on


----------



## dark2099

So I need a little help on voltage settings with this board. I am trying to get 4.5GHz stable with my XMP settings for my RAM. Using manual mode, but left on auto, volt settings for CPU with LLC off, IBT at full load will hit 1.04v which is the same as stock RAM and CPU does at full load, and during the 2nd run it crashes. If I up LLC to Extreme while on manual mode with the voltage set to auto still, it will do 1.2-1.208v at full load and still crashes during the 2nd run. If I switch over to offset mode and leave that on auto too, at idle the chip is at 1.356v, at load 1.280-1.288v and will pass all 10 runs of IBT. The only other volts or options change are the XMP setting, which then sets the RAM volts to 1.65v. I know using Manual with LLC I could get the chip to run that 1.280-1.288v, but still would like it to drop to the lowest it can while idle. If I need to explain anything better (or someone can tell me how to do those nice looking screenshots of my BIOS) I'll gladly do that. Thanks!


----------



## ResetApocalypse

First build, first MoBo. I feel like I have made a good choice. I will be building my rig tomorrow. Feeling pretty confident with that 5 yr warranty on the box:thumb:


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillLee3*
> 
> Guess I don't know how to search....
> Just got a Sabertooth Z77 with a 3770K. I'm following the Asus board over clock guide. Using newest drivers and utilities under Win8. Despite specifying multipliers of 45 the system always boots to 4100. I can change it in TurboV.
> How do I force the boot to 4500? Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillLee3*
> 
> Sorry, wasn't clear. That's the guide I'm following. I specify 45 in BIOS, it sticks through reboots, but system reports 4100 at desktop.
> 
> Other somewhat strange thing is how much I'm turning the voltage down. Runs way hot at 4500 at 1.2V (100+) - I have the 212+. Am currently running Prime95 blended for 1hr at 4500 at 1.175V and PLL at 1.5V. Temps hit 94 but are generally between 86 and 91.


It seems Windows 8 doesn't always report correct CPU frequency. Did you check it with Real Temp?


----------



## Bdonedge

Okay so I think I may be onto something. everytime I boot up, all of the LED's come on one at a time and then disappear. According to the manual they are only supposed to come on when an error occurs? Is that right or do they all have the LED come on for a second? I'm talking about the CPU LED, RAM LED, HDD LED and VGA LED


----------



## kizwan

All LED (CPU LED, RAM LED, VGA LED) will come on for a couple of seconds when boot up but will off afterwards. If it stays on then error has occurred. HDD LED will stay on until OS boot up. HDD LED prone to false-positive if you use third party boot loader or launching OS from UEFI shell (it stay on).


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> All LED (CPU LED, RAM LED, VGA LED) will come on for a couple of seconds when boot up but will off afterwards. If it stays on then error has occurred. HDD LED will stay on until OS boot up. HDD LED prone to false-positive if you use third party boot loader or launching OS from UEFI shell (it stay on).


okay that's it for me. Thanks for the reply, I need to go to sleep, I've been trying to troubleshoot these errors for going on 24 hours now. I'll be back tomorrow. Maybe I just need to get a SSD drive or something, I don't know why else this windows warning would be in the diagnostic performance section of event viewer and why windows is taking a long time time to load. I'll sacrafice a goat for the greater demon spawn at this point to figure it out. +rep to everyone for letting me vent in here and ask questions


----------



## lukerobi

So... There is some strange behavior with this board that has pissed me off.

Apparently if you flash bios, it will remove a drive from your primary raid array and make it a non raid drive... thus killing the array. Anyone else run into this problem and have figured out how to overcome it? Most my stuff is backed up... but what a pain!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> okay that's it for me. Thanks for the reply, I need to go to sleep, I've been trying to troubleshoot these errors for going on 24 hours now. I'll be back tomorrow. Maybe I just need to get a SSD drive or something, I don't know why else this windows warning would be in the diagnostic performance section of event viewer and why windows is taking a long time time to load.


Sorry, I've never experience this problem before. Go take a nap for now. When you wake up later try this....

Try disable Prefetch by editing the registry: http://social.technet.microsoft.com/wiki/contents/articles/3566.event-id-106-microsoft-windows-diagnostics-performance.aspx

See whether this speed up the boot process.

Also try run "sfc /scannow" (without quotes) in elevated command prompt windows (i.e. running as administrator). It will "Scans integrity of all protected system files and repairs files with problems when possible".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdonedge*
> 
> I'll sacrafice a goat for the greater demon spawn at this point to figure it out.


Make sure it is full moon, at midnight, must be Friday the 13th. Or else it wont work. LOL. Little joke to take your mind off things.


----------



## HeavyUser

Hey everyone. I just built my system today i5-3750k, asus sabertooth z77, and a noctua d14. I know very little about overclocking. When I installed everything it seems the motherboard automatically overclocked the cpu. Here is a screenshot. I started prime testing it and monitoring temps and volts. If the overclock is stable at stock volts should I try for higher overclocks? 4.1ghz seems pretty high for a vcore of 1.124. Have I got a decent chip on my hands?


----------



## Roxycon

every time i get into windows after bootup i'll get a warning message witch states "[setupvalue] value like null" or something down that lane.. i checked different forums and im not the first one to get that warning and they did not upgrtade theirs bios but tweaked something in the drivers files or something :s

link's for the forums:
W7Forums

VIP ASUS

screen:



so i was wondering if you have some easy to understand AND do steps to both get rid of the warning and update my drivers since asus didn't do a full driver update software









specs:
ASUS sabertooth z77
intel i7 2600k
16 gb veangence RAM
MSI gtx 560 ti twin frozr SLI
corsair AX1200
corsair H100
corsair force3 120 gb SSD
6 mechanical HDD's


----------



## Luke88

May I join the club ?



http://imgur.com/6dQ7w


----------



## Bdonedge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Sorry, I've never experience this problem before. Go take a nap for now. When you wake up later try this....
> Try disable Prefetch by editing the registry: http://social.technet.microsoft.com/wiki/contents/articles/3566.event-id-106-microsoft-windows-diagnostics-performance.aspx
> See whether this speed up the boot process.
> Also try run "sfc /scannow" (without quotes) in elevated command prompt windows (i.e. running as administrator). It will "Scans integrity of all protected system files and repairs files with problems when possible".
> Make sure it is full moon, at midnight, must be Friday the 13th. Or else it wont work. LOL. Little joke to take your mind off things.


LOL I appreciate it

So I'm about to try the disable prefetch, because a lot of random windows services are "Taking a long time to load" and some related to prefetch, but what does it do? Just make it so certain app caches aren't available?


----------



## kizwan

Prefetch stores data about the applications you run in order to help them start faster. Since it causing delay in your system, for troubleshooting this problem, try disabled it for now. Report back whether the boot process faster or not.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Speaking of boot time I got a question:

Back before I did my format of Win7 and re-installed fresh my copy - the PC (from a cold start) used to boot INTO windows in 1 min (but then take 5mins to make me use windows, as 2 stupid asus services were causing the 5min delay)

Now that I formatted, it takes around 1 and a half to 2 mins to boot into windows, and less than 10seconds in order for everything to "boot up"

My question is really a bit picky, but wonder if I can get my old boot time INTO windows, and maintain my current load-up time within windows?
Thus effectively speeding up my boot by around 50%.

It comes down to the "clicking noise" and where it is present.
Before my pc would "click" just before the second set of the circles of the windows logo would touch
Now it is 3 seconds after the windows logo has been "fully assembled"

Hopefully I'm making sense, if not I can video it to demonstrate!

Any help would be appreciated







!

PS. There is no errors in event viewer that lead to anything service related not starting up.
I have also changed the POST time to 1sec in the BIOS


----------



## Solonowarion

Okay I messed up. I was packing up my mobo for my RMA. Wouldnt recognize 16 gbs of ram. As I was putting on the socket protector It was backwards and I bent some pins. I fixed them and it boots but a oxygen starved monkey at birth could tell thay have been bent. Asus is very strict on bent pns.Should I just keep my mobo and run it at 8gbs and cut my losses? $50 to ship their and if they reject it around $50 to ship back. $150 if I let them fix it. I may as well keep this and buy a new mobo if I relly need to.


----------



## asuman1179

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Speaking of boot time I got a question:
> Back before I did my format of Win7 and re-installed fresh my copy - the PC (from a cold start) used to boot INTO windows in 1 min (but then take 5mins to make me use windows, as 2 stupid asus services were causing the 5min delay)
> Now that I formatted, it takes around 1 and a half to 2 mins to boot into windows, and less than 10seconds in order for everything to "boot up"
> My question is really a bit picky, but wonder if I can get my old boot time INTO windows, and maintain my current load-up time within windows?
> Thus effectively speeding up my boot by around 50%.
> It comes down to the "clicking noise" and where it is present.
> Before my pc would "click" just before the second set of the circles of the windows logo would touch
> Now it is 3 seconds after the windows logo has been "fully assembled"
> Hopefully I'm making sense, if not I can video it to demonstrate!
> Any help would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> PS. There is no errors in event viewer that lead to anything service related not starting up.
> I have also changed the POST time to 1sec in the BIOS


I think I have this same issue but hard to explain. If I restart the computer it seems to delay finding the OS hard drive. I have one large dirve and one attached drive usb3. Not sure if I could setup something differently inside of the BIOS. Sometimes it takes so long I think it is suck and then I try accessing the BIOS but does not work but eventual loads. I have not updated my drives in sometime and noticed a but of new ones that I might setup but wondering what are most folks have for BIOS settings for SSD hard drive? Chris


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> I think I have this same issue but hard to explain. If I restart the computer it seems to delay finding the OS hard drive. I have one large dirve and one attached drive usb3. Not sure if I could setup something differently inside of the BIOS. Sometimes it takes so long I think it is suck and then I try accessing the BIOS but does not work but eventual loads. I have not updated my drives in sometime and noticed a but of new ones that I might setup but wondering what are most folks have for BIOS settings for SSD hard drive? Chris


No specific BIOS settings that would affect it really.
Your problem sounds a bit more complex and problematic.
Mine is actually quite picky.

Your problems sounds a bit more serious - ie driver, bios revision, installation, services.


----------



## aupperk24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> X86 vs X64 maybe?
> Nothing wrong with the board.
> EVERYTHING wrong with the software though.
> But it is ASUS, you learn to know they suck balls - I knew so before and still bought a soundcard and motherboard from those "monkeys"


nope, apparently they don't give that driver for download for windows 8


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aupperk24*
> 
> nope, apparently they don't give that driver for download for windows 8


Oh asus


----------



## iARDAs

Guys how is the sabertooth X79?

Anyone tried it?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> I think I have this same issue but hard to explain. If I restart the computer it seems to delay finding the OS hard drive. I have one large dirve and one attached drive usb3. Not sure if I could setup something differently inside of the BIOS. Sometimes it takes so long I think it is suck and then I try accessing the BIOS but does not work but eventual loads. I have not updated my drives in sometime and noticed a but of new ones that I might setup but wondering what are most folks have for BIOS settings for SSD hard drive? Chris
> 
> 
> 
> No specific BIOS settings that would affect it really.
> Your problem sounds a bit more complex and problematic.
> Mine is actually quite picky.
> 
> Your problems sounds a bit more serious - ie driver, bios revision, installation, services.
Click to expand...

if i can remember Correctly i had this on my last motherboard (it just hangs on the square window icons for a few sec'to a minute before you into desktop) i think what i did was increase my vcore a bit not sure why but it worked but the oc was prime stable.

am not saying it will work or not on yours


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Speaking of boot time I got a question:
> Back before I did my format of Win7 and re-installed fresh my copy - the PC (from a cold start) used to boot INTO windows in 1 min (but then take 5mins to make me use windows, as 2 stupid asus services were causing the 5min delay)
> Now that I formatted, it takes around 1 and a half to 2 mins to boot into windows, and less than 10seconds in order for everything to "boot up"
> My question is really a bit picky, but wonder if I can get my old boot time INTO windows, and maintain my current load-up time within windows?
> Thus effectively speeding up my boot by around 50%.
> It comes down to the "clicking noise" and where it is present.
> Before my pc would "click" just before the second set of the circles of the windows logo would touch
> Now it is 3 seconds after the windows logo has been "fully assembled"
> Hopefully I'm making sense, if not I can video it to demonstrate!
> Any help would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> PS. There is no errors in event viewer that lead to anything service related not starting up.
> I have also changed the POST time to 1sec in the BIOS
> 
> 
> 
> I think I have this same issue but hard to explain. If I restart the computer it seems to delay finding the OS hard drive. I have one large dirve and one attached drive usb3. Not sure if I could setup something differently inside of the BIOS. Sometimes it takes so long I think it is suck and then I try accessing the BIOS but does not work but eventual loads. I have not updated my drives in sometime and noticed a but of new ones that I might setup but wondering what are most folks have for BIOS settings for SSD hard drive? Chris
Click to expand...

i think your problem is down to the usb3 harddrive,try discornecting it and see if it boots up faster. as to bios settings for ssd hard drive should be on auto ahci mode unless you are using a ide serial ata hard drive which then should be on IDE MODE


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> if i can remember Correctly i had this on my last motherboard (it just hangs on the square window icons for a few sec'to a minute before you into desktop) i think what i did was increase my vcore a bit not sure why but it worked but the oc was prime stable.
> 
> am not saying it will work or not on yours


Oh that does ring a bell - I'll see how fast it boost on manual vcore first.

Cheers for the heads-up I'll give it a whirl









+rep


----------



## OutaTheLoneWolf

Im overclocking right now and i cant get my CPU multiplier to go past 48, anyone else having this problem?


----------



## manhsoi1809

Hi guy I have nzxt phantom 410 with the asus sabertooth z77 and the Cooler master V6 Gt but it not fit . I need to return it now and I want new cooler for my cpu . So what cooler should I get under 150$ . Thank you


----------



## Zyrael

So I just decided to pop in a couple of the Hyper-X SSD's I got. Gonna be my first SSD Raid, but I've run into a snafu. I have them plugged into the Asmedia controlled Sata 3 ports and went into the UEFI Bios to configure them as RAID and noticed that the Advanced Sata Configuration does not display the Asmedia ports... is there any way I can use these ports for the RAID-0 I had planned? Or am I going to have to push out my OS drive from the Intel Sata 3 port and put them both there?

This is a fairly vexing problem, any help is VERY appreciated.


----------



## Zyrael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manhsoi1809*
> 
> Hi guy I have nzxt phantom 410 with the asus sabertooth z77 and the Cooler master V6 Gt but it not fit . I need to return it now and I want new cooler for my cpu . So what cooler should I get under 150$ . Thank you


Check out my signature rig. I've paired this board with a Corsair H100. Depending on the internal dimensions of your case you could use an H100, H100i, or any of the 120x120 variations of the series. But when you use one of these products factor in buying a couple of their Air series fans (I chose the SP120 quiets.) What you end up with is excellent cooling power, just under a custom loop that is extremely quiet and almost entirely maintenance free.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Thank you so much for replying. I also sent an email to cl-jeffrey in the link you posted. I have good news! I have solved my problem. I did a complete wipe of the BIOS chip and then wrote 1504 to it first doing the main BIOS Image blocks, then the Boot blocks. Profit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have multiplier settings _and_ iGPU settings available in both BIOS and Turbo V Evo.
> 
> Wipe BIOS chip and write data blocks to a fresh chip
> HOW TO:
> For ASUS Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard only. Do not attempt to use these instructions with another board. I have no experience in doing so and can not guarantee these instructions to be accurate for that. In other words, this is a Sabertooth Z77 thread and the solution is only listed here for the AMI BIOS on that board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING: This can render your ASUS Sabertooth Z77 motherboard inoperable and unserviceable by you if the BIOS chip fails to rewrite all of the data or anything else goes wrong. Do this at your own risk. BIOS flashback will not be able to recover this if something goes wrong. You have been warned.*
> 
> Use American Megatrends' AMIflash Utility
> http://goo.gl/6dbsB
> Unpack zip files, pick the appropriatexx folder, where xx is 32 or 64 bit
> CLOSE ALL PROGRAMS!!!!!!
> Run amiflash\Aptio\AFUWin\xx\afuwinxx\afuwingui.exe
> Click Setup TAB
> Optional but Recommended: Click Save BUTTON to backup your current BIOS. Save that file to an external source
> Click Open BUTTON
> Select previously downloaded 1504 BIOS CAP file from Asus support website
> Check "Program All Blocks" checkbox
> Click Flash BUTTON
> Click Windows Start Menu and "Shutdown" NOT REBOOT
> Make sure computer shuts down.
> Press power button to turn on computer
> Wait... computer will shutdown after 1 second of turning on and then reboot again... just let it do it's thing.
> Don't touch anything, don't try to enter BIOS, don't do anything til you are at the windows login screen or desktop
> Profit


Thank you soo much! This fixed everything. All my ram works. I have OC capabilities now. Thankyou again! I was looing into buying another board!


----------



## asuman1179

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No specific BIOS settings that would affect it really.
> Your problem sounds a bit more complex and problematic.
> Mine is actually quite picky.
> 
> Your problems sounds a bit more serious - ie driver, bios revision, installation, services.


Yeah going to start the problem solving this weekend. Just don't have the time to dive in deep this week.


----------



## CODELESS

hi ther guys,

anyone have issues with thier H100i on their sabertooths ?

i have had to reseat mine now for the 3rd time.
my average temps in the beginning was 32c and from my last reseat its gone down to 29c
when i look at real temp, my core0 is always in the 31-33 range while core123 are in the 24-26-28 range ? is this normal ?
i have the stock fans on the H100i and i have put rubber mountings on the plate at the back of the board for the H100i
as i read alot of people are having trouble seating their H100i's properly
i5 3570k cpu at stock clock of 3.8


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i think your problem is down to the usb3 harddrive,try discornecting it and see if it boots up faster. as to bios settings for ssd hard drive should be on auto ahci mode unless you are using a ide serial ata hard drive which then should be on IDE MODE


A little update:
No, no luck in making it faster









Tried manual voltage for the heck of it, and tried getting rid of fast boot too.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> A little update:
> No, no luck in making it faster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried manual voltage for the heck of it, and tried getting rid of fast boot too.


Sounds strange but I was experiencing hang time at start up, Used to hang on the Asus logo for ages.
Changed my CD ROM to one of the first two sata ports which I don't use for storage and this fixed the problem.

I also removed my usb3 as one of the options for boot up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Sounds strange but I was experiencing hang time at start up, Used to hang on the Asus logo for ages.
> Changed my CD ROM to one of the first two sata ports which I don't use for storage and this fixed the problem.
> 
> I also removed my usb3 as one of the options for boot up.


I actually timed it this time...
I'm being too picky I think
25seconds boot up time lol.

I'll film it this time.

EDIT:
30 seconds exactly, on video:

(You should be able to see the video, if not click this link):









Basically what I was saying beforehand was that "clicking noise" coming before the windows logo had been formulated.
As you can see I'm being picky, but I would love it if I were able to boot it up faster


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I actually timed it this time...
> I'm being too picky I think
> 25seconds boot up time lol.
> 
> I'll film it this time.
> 
> EDIT:
> 30 seconds exactly, on video:
> 
> (You should be able to see the video, if not click this link):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically what I was saying beforehand was that "clicking noise" coming before the windows logo had been formulated.
> As you can see I'm being picky, but I would love it if I were able to boot it up faster


It looks pretty normal to me. Couldn't really hear the clicking noise though. If you missed it, you can shorten the time it stays on the ASUS logo I believe. Default is 3 seconds.

EDIT:

Just did a fresh boot and timed it. I got the same 30seconds as you did.

Only other option is to install windows 8 haha. My friend boots in 7 or 8 seconds.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> It looks pretty normal to me. Couldn't really hear the clicking noise though. If you missed it, you can shorten the time it stays on the ASUS logo I believe. Default is 3 seconds.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Just did a fresh boot and timed it. I got the same 30seconds as you did.


Yup mine is at 1second.
The click occurs at 1:00-1:04

I could hear it through my sound system, after re-playing the video









As for the little:
"-"
"-"

that happens before the logo - what's that all about?
I noticed it ever since I did my fresh install for a second time.


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yup mine is at 1second.
> The click occurs at 1:00-1:04
> 
> I could hear it through my sound system, after re-playing the video
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the little:
> "-"
> "-"
> 
> that happens before the logo - what's that all about?
> I noticed it ever since I did my fresh install for a second time.


I believe the "-" occurs when it is processing boot priorities. I've had it for most my computers, I think my laptops also. Just replayed the video again, is it the 2 clicks right before windows finally loads? Maybe it your samsung F1.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> I believe the "-" occurs when it is processing boot priorities. I've had it for most my computers, I think my laptops also. Just replayed the video again, is it the 2 clicks right before windows finally loads? Maybe it your samsung F1.


Could well be - it is at 0:51.

Thing is my boot priority is set to my SSD and then second is my DVD.
Maybe I should try unplugging them see if that makes a difference...?


----------



## OcSlave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> I believe the "-" occurs when it is processing boot priorities. I've had it for most my computers, I think my laptops also. Just replayed the video again, is it the 2 clicks right before windows finally loads? Maybe it your samsung F1.


My f1 does teh click when it's first being accessed when loading, i have the drive to turn off when not in use so if i everaccess anything on the f1 it has to start up first which takes a few seconds and there is a click.

Allso things like steam seem to take abit to load as that must try to access the f1 allso as steam does'nt start till my f1 is initialized, i have steam and os on a ssd.


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Could well be - it is at 0:51.
> 
> Thing is my boot priority is set to my SSD and then second is my DVD.
> Maybe I should try unplugging them see if that makes a difference...?


No, it's still going to be there. I only have my ssd plugged into my system and it still shows up. No second hdd or disc drive.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> I believe the "-" occurs when it is processing boot priorities. I've had it for most my computers, I think my laptops also. Just replayed the video again, is it the 2 clicks right before windows finally loads? Maybe it your samsung F1.
> 
> 
> 
> Could well be - it is at 0:51.
> 
> Thing is my boot priority is set to my SSD and then second is my DVD.
> Maybe I should try unplugging them see if that makes a difference...?
Click to expand...

mine takes 23.5 sec's from turn on to desktop thats with a ssd drive and as to the "-" i got that since the bios update a few days ago but never had it when i 1st built the system about two weeks ago

my my ssd'sdrives are cornected to the brown and my cd drive is cornected to the black


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> mine takes 23.5 sec's from turn on to desktop thats with a ssd drive and as to the "-" i got that since the bios update a few days ago but never had it when i 1st built the system about two weeks ago
> 
> my my ssd'sdrives are cornected to the brown and my cd drive is corected to the black


Interesting...I shall look into this then. I am now officially intrigued by this.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Thanks a lot for the responses guys!

All fun and games I must say









I'll also play around with sata connections.
Mine is connected to the intel one 6gbps

And the "-" might be explained then - as I was on an older bios before.
1616 if memory serves me right!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

For a long time my DVD ROM kept vanishing and not showing up as a drive. When I changed around my sata ports for some reason it fixed this and also my slow boot time.

Running strong at 4.5 played BF3 all night with no crashing manual voltage 1.3.
Thanks heaps for the help guys.


----------



## whitestsand

I had Windows 7 on a ssd drive with a hard drive for the storage. When I upgraded to Windows 8 I lost my hard drive.

It is showing up in bios but Win 8 is not seeing it.

I have tried the new intel chipset and MEI drivers. No luck.....

When connected to AsMedia sata 3 it works just fine. No matter what I seem to do, the hard drive won't
show up on the intel sata 3 plug...

I have tried my ssd in both Intel sata 3 connectors and it works and both the ssd drive and the hard drive always show
up in bios. Running 1708. Just noticed this second that there is a new bios but that should not
be the problem.....

Any suggestions?? going to sleep!! been up all night.... sorry for the typing......


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Description SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1805
Improve system stability.
File Size
4,41 (MBytes) 2013.01.10 update

Flashed via AI SuiteII


And LOL at what I do, right after flashing the BIOS:


----------



## asuman1179

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuman1179*
> 
> Yeah going to start the problem solving this weekend. Just don't have the time to dive in deep this week.


Did some reading last night in bed and figured out the issue. My card reader that plugs into the USB was the problem. What I don't get is why this was not a problem in the past but just started in the last few months. Happy to have figured it out!


----------



## tienjoh

Yesterday I updated ai suite and after that I updated bios from 1504 to 1616 after reboot when login bsod in recovery mode I un installed ai suite. Now windows works again but if I try to restart bsod.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tienjoh*
> 
> Yesterday I updated ai suite and after that I updated bios from 1504 to 1616 after reboot when login bsod in recovery mode I un installed ai suite. Now windows works again but if I try to restart bsod.


Re-flash the BIOS- this time flash the latest one.


----------



## tienjoh

okey thanks will try thatl later


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tienjoh*
> 
> okey thanks will try thatl later


If you have trouble with the software, do it via the USB flashback tool


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luke88*
> 
> May I join the club ?
> 
> [U[/IMG][/URL]


A Beauty.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> hi ther guys,
> 
> anyone have issues with thier H100i on their sabertooths ?
> 
> i have had to reseat mine now for the 3rd time.
> my average temps in the beginning was 32c and from my last reseat its gone down to 29c
> when i look at real temp, my core0 is always in the 31-33 range while core123 are in the 24-26-28 range ? is this normal ?
> i have the stock fans on the H100i and i have put rubber mountings on the plate at the back of the board for the H100i
> as i read alot of people are having trouble seating their H100i's properly
> i5 3570k cpu at stock clock of 3.8


That seems pretty normal to me. 1 core is always going to be hotter. The lowest my cores have gotten with my H100 (not i) was 16. That was with 2 SP120s at full blast over night in the cold air of the winter...

mid 20s to low 30s are normal for idle to low activity.

You should be more concerned about putting load and seeing what your temps are then. On 3.8GHZ I don't break 60C even if my fans are turned all the way down.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I actually timed it this time...
> I'm being too picky I think
> 25seconds boot up time lol.
> 
> I'll film it this time.
> 
> EDIT:
> 30 seconds exactly, on video:
> 
> (You should be able to see the video, if not click this link):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically what I was saying beforehand was that "clicking noise" coming before the windows logo had been formulated.
> As you can see I'm being picky, but I would love it if I were able to boot it up faster


This is very strange to me. It almost sounds like a fan kicks in too. Is there a CD in the DVD drive? That will delay startup.
How many services and processes do you have at idle on boot?
A USB external drive will delay startup as well.

My rig boots from the Asus logo to into windows in around 15 seconds. (with no external and no cd in the drive) SSD is in the brown 6gb/s sata intel ports. I am not running the latest bios though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> This is very strange to me. It almost sounds like a fan kicks in too. Is there a CD in the DVD drive? That will delay startup.
> How many services and processes do you have at idle on boot?
> A USB external drive will delay startup as well.
> 
> My rig boots from the Asus logo to into windows in around 15 seconds. (with no external and no cd in the drive) SSD is in the brown 6gb/s sata intel ports. I am not running the latest bios though.


I have No CD's, no external drives connected (apart from my internal HDD's).
The clicking noise, I'm sure is the soundcard - Like it is re-routing the sound there.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have No CD's, no external drives connected (apart from my internal HDD's).
> The clicking noise, I'm sure is the soundcard - Like it is re-routing the sound there.


Have you unplugged everything from the computer except the monitor and power and tried booting just to verify it's not a peripheral thing? (mouse or keyboard software)

You could also try unplugging your extra Sata devices if the OS is just on the SSD or the soundcard itself to see if that click goes away.

Have you looked to see what windows actually reports as your boot times? Just curious.

Also according to my math on the timestamp of the video, from a cold boot, it is 29 seconds. Your post time seems a bit long.

From the Sabertooth logo to windows is only 18 seconds, which seems about right and similar to mine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Have you unplugged everything from the computer except the monitor and power and tried booting just to verify it's not a peripheral thing? (mouse or keyboard software)
> 
> You could also try unplugging your extra Sata devices if the OS is just on the SSD or the soundcard itself to see if that click goes away.
> 
> Have you looked to see what windows actually reports as your boot times? Just curious.
> 
> Also according to my math on the timestamp of the video, from a cold boot, it is 29 seconds. Your post time seems a bit long.
> 
> From the Sabertooth logo to windows is only 18 seconds, which seems about right and similar to mine.


Thanks a lot for the link and the help! +rep!
I will give them a shot
And well beforehand, from windows logo to windows it would take less than a 10 seconds now it takes longer.
I'm just trying to fine tune and iron out the cresaes really.

Event viewer has nothing but "WLAN AutoConfig service has successfully stopped."

Which is natural as I'm not using any wireless devices, but have the drivers for my TP link installed.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the link and the help! +rep!
> I will give them a shot
> And well beforehand, from windows logo to windows it would take less than a 10 seconds now it takes longer.
> I'm just trying to fine tune and iron out the cresaes really.
> 
> Event viewer has nothing but "WLAN AutoConfig service has successfully stopped."
> 
> Which is natural as I'm not using any wireless devices, but have the drivers for my TP link installed.


TY for rep.

Windows logo to windows sounds like more services and more processes at start up. I'm curious of the number


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> TY for rep.
> 
> Windows logo to windows sounds like more services and more processes at start up. I'm curious of the number


Checking this number is via your link you sent right?
As I can give you print screen of c cleaner and service.msc easily.

EDIT:
I got around 17 services (excluding MS ones) under MSCONFIG.
Most of those are small things, and others are important ones.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Checking this number is via your link you sent right?
> As I can give you print screen of c cleaner and service.msc easily.
> 
> EDIT:
> I got around 17 services (excluding MS ones) under MSCONFIG.
> Most of those are small things, and others are important ones.


Naw, Autoruns screenshots would be best, you can pm them to me if you'd like.

You could get a base number by just opening task manager to see how many processes are running and how much memory is being used. You can do this at boot then check again after a few minutes while you are idle.

msconfig is alright, but it doesn't show you everything.


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guys in the sabertooth bios undner boot / under manage the secure boot keys

there a option to clear all

is that safe to do and what will it do if I clear all


----------



## garikfox

The secure boot keys are for Windows 8, If you clear them them Windows 8 will turn Secure Boot Off


----------



## Bosniac

Question:

Can you use the HDMI on the back as an input device?


----------



## billythekid2012

ok thanks good thing I never did

one more thing I am set to offset in the bios now in cpu-z my clock speeds are at 3900mkz I thought if you on offset the cpu speed at idal should be 1600mkz and jump to the higher speed under load
im stuck at 3900mkz all the time


----------



## lukerobi

Anyone else have issues with bios settings not saving?

I set the multiplier for the clock speed and it refuses the change... the only way I could change it was flashing the bios.. It worked fine for about 3 different settings, and now it is stuck again?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukerobi*
> 
> Anyone else have issues with bios settings not saving?
> 
> I set the multiplier for the clock speed and it refuses the change... the only way I could change it was flashing the bios.. It worked fine for about 3 different settings, and now it is stuck again?


this sort of problem is becoming very common with this motherboard i found that by changing the jumper from 1&2 to 2&3 for 30 sec's as i have mentioned in a few post back did work.

it seems to me that asus still got some work to do,but it needs people to bring these issues to them sooner than later.may be someone needs to make a sticky with all the issue's and conserns and then send it to asus tech


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> this sort of problem is becoming very common with this motherboard i found that by changing the jumper from 1&2 to 2&3 for 30 sec's as i have mentioned in a few post back did work.
> 
> it seems to me that asus still got some work to do,but it needs people to bring these issues to them sooner than later.may be someone needs to make a sticky with all the issue's and conserns and then send it to asus tech


Confirm jumping the pin and clearing the cmos fixes this issue.
Just make sure you have no power going to the board and wait a bit before changing the pin back.


----------



## lukerobi

Only problem I have with clearing the cmos is it always wants to set drive 0 to non-raid, which then kills my raid array.... another wonderful headache this motherboard has bestowed upon us.

This will likely be the last asus motherboard I ever own..


----------



## leylek

your cpus c1e state should be enabled, for 16 multiplier on idle.


----------



## CODELESS

after reseting my bios my raid or sata settings was set to the default,
all i did was i set it back to raid and on next restart my raid0 config was still there.
loaded windows fine.

the only problem i have is when i turn on and it goes past the raid screen i get two windows 7's to choose from, weird.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> That seems pretty normal to me. 1 core is always going to be hotter. The lowest my cores have gotten with my H100 (not i) was 16. That was with 2 SP120s at full blast over night in the cold air of the winter...
> 
> mid 20s to low 30s are normal for idle to low activity.
> 
> You should be more concerned about putting load and seeing what your temps are then. On 3.8GHZ I don't break 60C even if my fans are turned all the way down.
> This is very strange to me. It almost sounds like a fan kicks in too. Is there a CD in the DVD drive? That will delay startup.
> How many services and processes do you have at idle on boot?
> A USB external drive will delay startup as well.


OC'd to 4.6 with vcore @ 1.27, ran prime95 for 3 hours and it never went past 78, it hit 80 for like a second or two.


----------



## noob.deagle

Just got a Z77 sabertooth i chose it over the ROG boards because of its nice aesthetics so it matches the rest of my build nicer


----------



## billythekid2012

How asus test ASUS TUF Series motherboards


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Lol I posted a reply on that video


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> OC'd to 4.6 with vcore @ 1.27, ran prime95 for 3 hours and it never went past 78, it hit 80 for like a second or two.


Looks like you got a nice chip/mobo. I wonder if I can do 4.6 at my current 1.3...


----------



## Garming

Should I consider updating my bios from 1504 to 1805?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Should I consider updating my bios from 1504 to 1805?


Case by case issue- you should try it out for yourself really









In other news:
Does enabling.disabling the intel rapid technology effect boot time? And more so how does it even work?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Should I consider updating my bios from 1504 to 1805?
> 
> 
> 
> Case by case issue- you should try it out for yourself really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news:
> Does enabling.disabling the intel rapid technology effect boot time? And more so how does it even work?
Click to expand...

Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST)
Intel® Rapid Recover Technology

Intel® Rapid Recover Technology is a feature of Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST). It uses RAID 1 (mirroring) functionality to copy data from a designated master drive to a designated recovery drive. The master drive data can be copied to the recovery drive either continuously or on request:

Continuous: Changes made to data on the master drive while the system is not docked are automatically copied to the recovery drive when the system is re-docked.
On request: The master drive data is restored to a previous state by copying the data on the recovery drive back to the master drive.
Note The recovery volume can be the only volume on a system. Recovery volume capacity equals the size of the smaller of the two hard drives.
Hard drives required
2
Advantages
More control over how data is copied between master and recovery drives.
Fast volume updates (only changes to the master drive since the last update are copied to the recovery drive).
Member hard drive data can be viewed in Microsoft Windows Explorer*.
Disadvantage
No increase in volume capacity.
Applications
Critical data protection for mobile systems.
Fast restoration of the master drive to a previous or default state.

if it means anything i haven't got mine turn on:thumb:


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Should I consider updating my bios from 1504 to 1805?


i do Believe the saying you only update the bios if you are having problems, if not leave alone:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST)
> Intel® Rapid Recover Technology
> if it means anything i haven't got mine turn on:thumb:


So it is useful for RAID configs, thus mine wouldn't apply?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> OC'd to 4.6 with vcore @ 1.27, ran prime95 for 3 hours and it never went past 78, it hit 80 for like a second or two.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you got a nice chip/mobo. I wonder if I can do 4.6 at my current 1.3...
Click to expand...

it doe's like like a good chip but 3 hrs on prime is not enough to say if its stable or not, at least 12-24 hrs is the norm to say if oc is stable.
i have read loads of times on forums where people saying they are prime stable after 3,4,6,10,12, even 16 hrs and then they have bsod's:thumb:


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> Intel® Rapid Storage Technology (Intel® RST)
> Intel® Rapid Recover Technology
> if it means anything i haven't got mine turn on:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> So it is useful for RAID configs, thus mine wouldn't apply?
Click to expand...

i would agree

it also say's

:thumb:Intel® Rapid Storage Technology offers new levels of protection, performance and expandability for desktop and mobile platforms. Whether using one or multiple hard drives, users can take advantage of enhanced performance and lower power consumption. When using more than one drive, the user can have added protection against data loss in the event of a hard drive failure.

The Intel Rapid Storage Technology user interface makes creating and managing your storage simple and intuitive. Combined with Intel® Rapid Recover Technology, setting up data protection can be done easily with an external drive.

Valuable digital memories are protected against a hard drive failure when the system is configured for any one of three fault-tolerant RAID levels: RAID 1, RAID 5 or RAID 10. By seamlessly storing copies of data on one or more additional hard drives, any hard drive can fail without data loss or system downtime. When the failed drive is removed and a replacement hard drive is installed, data fault tolerance is easily restored.

Intel® Rapid Storage Technology can also improve the performance of disk intensive retrieval applications such as editing home video. By combining from two to six drives in a RAID 0 configuration, data can be accessed on each drive simultaneously. This configuration speeds up response time on data-intensive applications. Also, due to drive load balancing, even systems with RAID 1 can take advantage of faster boot times and data reads.

Intel Rapid Storage Technology provides benefits to users of single drives as well. Through AHCI, storage performance is improved with Native Command Queuing (NCQ). AHCI also delivers longer battery life with Link Power Management (LPM), which can reduce the power consumption of the chipset and Serial ATA (SATA) hard drive.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

ok! Cheers man


----------



## billythekid2012

I thought my 3770k was good I can do 4500mhz with offset of +.005
and every thing ells on auto but ram and c-1e on

cpu-z say 1.2 volt on load

passed Intel burn on max for 10 runs prime95 for 7 hours temp 58c to 63c

But if I go to 4600mgz I can't get it stable


----------



## Inacoma79

Got my new ram modules from Corsair yesterday (RMA'd some bad ram). Also picked up some CL liquid ultra, gonna replace the Arctic 5 today and back to OC'ing, at long last!


----------



## ramclockman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i would agree
> 
> it also say's
> 
> :thumb:Intel® Rapid Storage Technology offers new levels of protection, performance and expandability for desktop and mobile platforms. Whether using one or multiple hard drives, users can take advantage of enhanced performance and lower power consumption. When using more than one drive, the user can have added protection against data loss in the event of a hard drive failure.
> 
> The Intel Rapid Storage Technology user interface makes creating and managing your storage simple and intuitive. Combined with Intel® Rapid Recover Technology, setting up data protection can be done easily with an external drive.
> 
> Valuable digital memories are protected against a hard drive failure when the system is configured for any one of three fault-tolerant RAID levels: RAID 1, RAID 5 or RAID 10. By seamlessly storing copies of data on one or more additional hard drives, any hard drive can fail without data loss or system downtime. When the failed drive is removed and a replacement hard drive is installed, data fault tolerance is easily restored.
> 
> Intel® Rapid Storage Technology can also improve the performance of disk intensive retrieval applications such as editing home video. By combining from two to six drives in a RAID 0 configuration, data can be accessed on each drive simultaneously. This configuration speeds up response time on data-intensive applications. Also, due to drive load balancing, even systems with RAID 1 can take advantage of faster boot times and data reads.
> 
> Intel Rapid Storage Technology provides benefits to users of single drives as well. Through AHCI, storage performance is improved with Native Command Queuing (NCQ). AHCI also delivers longer battery life with Link Power Management (LPM), which can reduce the power consumption of the chipset and Serial ATA (SATA) hard drive.


Intel has updated the Rapid Storage Technology driver to version 11.7.0.1013, but the Asus website only shows version 11.5.0.1207? Should we wait until the latest driver is listed on the Asus website or go ahead and update through Intel??


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramclockman*
> 
> Intel has updated the Rapid Storage Technology driver to version 11.7.0.1013, but the Asus website only shows version 11.5.0.1207? Should we wait until the latest driver is listed on the Asus website or go ahead and update through Intel??


My friend, how shall I put it to you:
Asus suck with updating their stuff, and more so usually screw up their own software.

Grab it off intel's website


----------



## Arizonian

Very interesting video showing 



. Love both my X58 and Z77 Sabertooth mobos.


----------



## Dwalmsley76

G'day i've had my Sabertooth Z77 watercooled for six months now and i love it, and it looks cool too.









Started off with a Thermaltake Bigwater 760 Plus CPU loop


I fitted an extra EK Multioption X3 reservoir in preparation for watercooling the GPU's


Set the desktop up with two monitors, the right run's rainmeter the left runs everything else


Thermaltake ARMOR+ MX case


----------



## OcSlave

Hi,
As this thread throws up no answers i'll add it so others may find the easy fix









With newer and latest Intel rst drivers i get Iastorui has stopped working as the gui crashes on startup, this has bugged me for weeks so i been using old driver.

The error is related to the Asmedia sata ports ( grey ), once they are disabled in device manager Intel rst gui starts normally with no error.

I have no dissabled the Asmedia sata ports in bios so latest intel rst drivers work normally.

I have raid 2x vectors on the intel 6gbs ports and a vertex 4 on the asmedia, the asmedia ports give around 350mb read and write, the intel sata 2 ports give me 250mb read and write so i'm losing 100mb going from the asmedia to intel sata 2.

Not ideal but if you have this error then the fix will most likey be you ahve the asmedia ports enabled or enabled with a drive in.

Edit

Even this post does'nt show up inthread search ?


----------



## J!NX

My setup....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Love the sleeving!


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Should I consider updating my bios from 1504 to 1805?


what ? 1805 is out ?

so much for ez update.... fail.


----------



## Tonky

Hi guys,

did anyone change the chipset cooler? Was thinkin' about if it is possible to cool the z77 chip with a standard waterblock from koolance or alphacool... I don't own the board yet, so I cannot check out if the chipset heatsink is fastened with screws or on another way.

I do really like the aesthetics of the board but not of the brown heatsink, so I would like to change it out to something I like to look at, if I buy the mobo.


----------



## Dissolution187

I am having a major issue with this board.... I cannot for the life of me overclock my i7 3770k. I had to format my computer and ever since then the OC will not take. I have tried everything... I have flashed the cmos I have updated the bios I have no idea what is wrong.

I try and switch the multiplier to 45 and it always stays at 3.5 in windows under cpuid.... It is so frustrating and i have no idea what I am doing wrong.

Any suggestions at all?

Am I overclocking in the wrong place or something?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissolution187*
> 
> I am having a major issue with this board.... I cannot for the life of me overclock my i7 3770k. I had to format my computer and ever since then the OC will not take. I have tried everything... I have flashed the cmos I have updated the bios I have no idea what is wrong.
> 
> I try and switch the multiplier to 45 and it always stays at 3.5 in windows under cpuid.... It is so frustrating and i have no idea what I am doing wrong.
> 
> Any suggestions at all?
> 
> Am I overclocking in the wrong place or something?


I would ignore the cpuid thing - could be an error with the software.

Copy and past my EXACT bios settings, (except go for x42 and not x45, and put YOUR rated ram specs - and see how that works.)


----------



## Roxycon

Try setting the bios for advanced bios settings instead of the ezmode settings, had same type of problem before my antisurgeprotection went loco


----------



## Dissolution187

I did your exact setup and it still is not ocing correctly. Before i had a stable 4.4 and now it wont go past 3.7. Im so confused and frustrated at this point.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissolution187*
> 
> I did your exact setup and it still is not ocing correctly. Before i had a stable 4.4 and now it wont go past 3.7. Im so confused and frustrated at this point.


flash either a newer or older bios.


----------



## Dissolution187

I have no idea what happened but I got it working finally.... I have pushed my cpu to 4.5 now at 1.27v ... I've been running Prime for about 25 mins now and no errors.... Temps are around 76 C so far.


----------



## Dissolution187

Thanks Dubbed. Something in your settings must have been off with mine so I got it working thanks to you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissolution187*
> 
> I have no idea what happened but I got it working finally.... I have pushed my cpu to 4.5 now at 1.27v ... I've been running Prime for about 25 mins now and no errors.... Temps are around 76 C so far.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissolution187*
> 
> Thanks Dubbed. Something in your settings must have been off with mine so I got it working thanks to you.


I'm glad you got it working mate


----------



## billythekid2012

Are this temps good for 4.5

I have the offset in the bios to + .005


----------



## Solonowarion

I have googled this to no avil. I set up raid 0 and installed windows. Now everytime i restart after the sabertooth screen the raod setup screen comes on after for a few seconds.

How can I stop this ?


----------



## Zantrill

Just wanted to say thanks.... to a very great board. Asus, you have done me proud. I do not regret purchasing you. My dear Z77 Sabertooth.









Signed:

A very grateful owner.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks.... to a very great board. Asus, you have done me proud. I do not regret purchasing you. My dear Z77 Sabertooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Signed:
> 
> A very grateful owner.


That is what we Sabertooth owners love to hear welcome to the club.


----------



## Zantrill

I've been a club member for a while now...... But I have been a dream member since before the Z77's came out.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Are this temps good for 4.5
> 
> I have the offset in the bios to + .005


they are better than good, but are excellent.
If you are indeed stable you are extremely lucky to have a chip @ 1.24v @ 4.5ghz


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Dwalmsley76 wrote:
> 
> G'day i've had my Sabertooth Z77 water-cooled for six months now and i love it, and it looks cool too.biggrin.gif
> 
> Started off with a Thermaltake Bigwater 760 Plus CPU loop


...very nice
















Also, I happen to run a Sabertooth Z77 with 2 Asus GTX 670s in SLI...what kind of water-blocs are you going to use ? Are there custom 670 solutions, or a re-fit of blocs for the 680s ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^wow that's a tiny case - but sexy GFXs


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Totally Dubbed wrote
> 
> ^wow that's a tiny case - but sexy GFXs


...Antec 302 case...I just love them. This thing started life out as something else in a build of several machines for a virtual machine (3770 non-Ks), but then I needed a work / play thing also.

It runs great, though...just added the OCZ SSD







and have a RamDrive







(per this post http://www.overclock.net/t/1348433/sharpening-the-sabertooth-z77-at-5-ghz-ramdisk-results-ssd-qs )


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice one man!


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Totally Dubbed wrote...Nice one man!


Thanks









...I was going to make it more 'optically sorted' on the inside, but I just added the SSD and am contemplating a more extensive water-cooling solution







that will include the GPUs as well in a couple of months...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I was going to make it more 'optically sorted' on the inside, but I just added the SSD and am contemplating a more extensive water-cooling solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that will include the GPUs as well in a couple of months...


I've been tempted by water cooling too....


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Totally Dubbed wrote...
> I've been tempted by water cooling too....tongue.gif


...and 'delidding' ?!







I am actually thinking of 'un-lidding' (has been successfully done before), that is leaving the IHS off altogether and then mount the water-bloc (very, very carefully) directly to it with a bit of the right thermal paste.

The thing is, I have a good 3770K that can go to solid speeds already now at good temps, so delidding / unlidding would add little for the extra effort...might be a fun project though


----------



## Dwalmsley76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> ...very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I happen to run a Sabertooth Z77 with 2 Asus GTX 670s in SLI...what kind of water-blocs are you going to use ? Are there custom 670 solutions, or a re-fit of blocs for the 680s ?


EK Water Blocks have a full card block, and back plate for the GTX560.

WC' yours would free up some room.

EK have a Block for the 670 i think try GAMMODS.com.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> ...and 'delidding' ?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am actually thinking of 'un-lidding' (has been successfully done before), that is leaving the IHS off altogether and then mount the water-bloc (very, very carefully) directly to it with a bit of the right thermal paste.
> 
> The thing is, I have a good 3770K that can go to solid speeds already now at good temps, so delidding / unlidding would add little for the extra effort...might be a fun project though


Fun and dangerous.
But if you don't need it don't do it


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Dwalmsley76 wrote:
> 
> EK Water Blocks have a full card block, and back plate for the GTX560.
> 
> WC' yours would free up some room.
> 
> EK have a Block for the 670 i think try GAMMODS.com.


...Thanks







, I'll check those out


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> OC'd to 4.6 with vcore @ 1.27, ran prime95 for 3 hours and it never went past 78, it hit 80 for like a second or two.


Seems great to me! Very normal!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Are this temps good for 4.5
> 
> I have the offset in the bios to + .005


Looks great!


----------



## manhsoi1809

Hi! guy how many second did you guys put in the boot ? the normal is 3s and I changed it to 0 is it's okay ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manhsoi1809*
> 
> Hi! guy how many second did you guys put in the boot ? the normal is 3s and I changed it to 0 is it's okay ?


I've got 1 just in case I need the bios. Don't want to make it impossible for me to get to with 0


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Seems great to me! Very normal!
> Looks great!


Now the funny thing is I can.t do a higher o/c
all I did for 4500mhz is put the offset to +.005 put the ram to xmp and enabled c-1e so the cpu down clocks on idle
that the only thing I changed in the bios.

But to get like 4.6 or say 4.8 I can't


----------



## chillidog

ok lads am a bit puzzled now i throught i just check cpuz and aida64 now they are both telling me different storys the core voltage tell me the same but the cpu clock speed tell me different storys their no running programes in the back ground

so is cpuz wrong or aida64 as you can see in picture.


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Totally Dubbed wrote...
> I've been tempted by water cooling too....tongue.gif
> 
> 
> 
> ...and 'delidding' ?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am actually thinking of 'un-lidding' (has been successfully done before), that is leaving the IHS off altogether and then mount the water-bloc (very, very carefully) directly to it with a bit of the right thermal paste.
> 
> The thing is, I have a good 3770K that can go to solid speeds already now at good temps, so delidding / unlidding would add little for the extra effort...might be a fun project though
Click to expand...

If you are interested in "un-lidding" *Joa3d43*, then there is an OCN thread with some good info and lots of support to assist in the endeavor. Feel free to join us and check it out.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> ok lads am a bit puzzled now i throught i just check cpuz and aida64 now they are both telling me different storys the core voltage tell me the same but the cpu clock speed tell me different storys their no running programes in the back ground
> 
> so is cpuz wrong or aida64 as you can see in picture.


Well, there is no way you can have a 4.5GHz OC with 0.9v, so you must be at 1.6GHz (16x). Did CPU-Z ever get it right, or was it stuck reading an incorrect OC?


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> *PCWargamer* wrote...If you are interested in "un-lidding" Joa3d43, then there is an OCN thread with some good info and lots of support to assist in the endeavor. Feel free to join us and check it out


Thanks, will do...I already took a few peeks there and will be back for more







....this one form today...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2653300 voltages are still below my cut-off re. 1.45 absolute max, but getting there - seriously thinking about delidding...just not decided yet whether to keep it 'un-lid' and IHS-free


----------



## PCWargamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *PCWargamer* wrote...If you are interested in "un-lidding" Joa3d43, then there is an OCN thread with some good info and lots of support to assist in the endeavor. Feel free to join us and check it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, will do...I already took a few peeks there and will be back for more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....this one form today...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2653300 voltages are still below my cut-off re. 1.45 absolute max, but getting there - seriously thinking about delidding...just not decided yet whether to keep it 'un-lid' and IHS-free
Click to expand...

Your chip looks real good *Joa3d43*. And if your temps are good to you don't need to delid or unlid. Just enjoy a great chip.









But many of us still do it for the fun of it! One of the best and funest mods I have ever done!


----------



## Charlieboy

I got it working. I'd delete this post, if i knew how.


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> *PCWargamer* wrote...If you are interested in "un-lidding" Joa3d43, then there is an OCN thread with some good info and lots of support to assist in the endeavor. Feel free to join us and check it out thumb.gif
> 
> Thanks, will do...I already took a few peeks there and will be back for more thumb.gif ....this one form today...http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2653300 voltages are still below my cut-off re. 1.45 absolute max, but getting there - seriously thinking about delidding...just not decided yet whether to keep it 'un-lid' and IHS-free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your chip looks real good Joa3d43. And if your temps are good to you don't need to delid or unlid. Just enjoy a great chip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But many of us still do it for the fun of it! One of the best and funnest mods I have ever done


...Thanks







. The best part is that while hitting 5.167 GHz per above, it was running a full 32 GB of G.Skill 2400 MHz Ram, and three instances of Microsoft SQL, one of which is a real memory-biggie (SQL 2008 Enterprise), and IIS, all in 'Local Host' mode.









I also give credit to the Sabertooth Z77 board as it has (like other late-model segment boards from Asus and perhaps others) very solid (Haswell-spec) Dram lanes, and strong Alloy chokes / VRM, along with some great fine-tuning options in the Digi+

If I delid (likely), it will be for fun and to satisfy my curiosity... and to allow it to run even cooler than it already is for a long time...the time I would do it is when I attempt my first custom-loop water-cooling







, though the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme







certainly has been great so far...custom-loop would also include SLI GTX 670s


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Now the funny thing is I can.t do a higher o/c
> all I did for 4500mhz is put the offset to +.005 put the ram to xmp and enabled c-1e so the cpu down clocks on idle
> that the only thing I changed in the bios.
> 
> But to get like 4.6 or say 4.8 I can't


Well, I think that's because you need more voltage


----------



## SLADEizGOD

I have a question. Does the corsair Dominator memory work with the sabertooth Z77 board? I think the ram is at 2600.


----------



## mxfreek09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I have a question. Does the corsair Dominator memory work with the sabertooth Z77 board? I think the ram is at 2600.


Here is a list from ASUS of Qualified Vendors. Im not sure if that will help or not.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I have a question. Does the corsair Dominator memory work with the sabertooth Z77 board? I think the ram is at 2600.


Probably will, but it isn't on the QVL.


----------



## Solonowarion

Is it normal to only knock the hundreds up by increments of .005 when ocing? I cant change 1.32 to 1.321. Just 1.325


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Is it normal to only knock the hundreds up by increments of .005 when ocing? I cant change 1.32 to 1.321. Just 1.325


yes you can't have smaller increments than +/- 0.005


----------



## chillidog

ok lads little story this morning i was on the pc doing what ever for an hour or so and then i had to go out somewhere for half an hour ,i came back made myself a coffee and then went to turn on the pc but with no luck,checked all the wires etc,change the the fuse in the main plug but still no pc on.so i corrnected a spare psu to the motherboard the fans started then stop.took it to my mates shop and strip the pc down,he checked the psu on a different pc had a bit of life in it.so he checked the board with is new toys but no life,anyway after having a good chat we came to the conclusion the sabertooth was dead.so i took it back to the shop where i got it from about two moths ago (xmas prezzie from the wife) now bear in mind that before i took it back we checked the sabertooth over making sure nothing is out of place specially cpu socket all clean and no bent pins what so ever.the guy at the shop took it at the back to check it out within 10 mins came back and said their a bent pin (cpu socket) so now am glowing red in the face knowing that this as been checked by me and my mate who builds pc'c for a living before hand. so i started to argue the toss with him about it and then he quickly went back for another 10 mins.then he came back and said i straighten the pin but the motherboard is dead.and it will after be return to asus which will be a turn around of 3-4 weeks by this time am at boiling point well the motherboard is faulty i either have a replacement or a refund then. sorry cant do that becouse its out of our 28 day return policy so it will have to go back to asus. anyway cut the story short they didn't have another one so i had to go with gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3h in the end.
got back to mates shop put everything together etc. plug the mains in. started the pc and nothing,checked everything was cornected etc and still nothing and then we tried another psu (a lower watt) pc started up.
so either my old psu shorted out the motherboard or the other way round.went back to the retailers and got a new psu cornected it up and bingo all done and dusted.
so i had a bad day and also a expensive day. so now for a while am stuck with the gigabyte it don't look nice compare to sabertooth but oc quite easy at 4.5 with even lower vcore which am happy with:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Wow - Yeah PSU's are important to choose.
Which PSU did you have?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I have a question. Does the corsair Dominator memory work with the sabertooth Z77 board? I think the ram is at 2600.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxfreek09*
> 
> Here is a list from ASUS of Qualified Vendors. Im not sure if that will help or not.
> 
> http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf


ASUS QVL list usually not up-to-date. Better refer to memory manufacturer QVL list. They usually tested their memory kit, even the new one, with popular motherboard.

http://www2.corsair.com/configurator/product_results.aspx?sc=us&id=4577279


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> ASUS QVL list usually not up-to-date. Better refer to memory manufacturer QVL list. They usually tested their memory kit, even the new one, with popular motherboard.
> 
> http://www2.corsair.com/configurator/product_results.aspx?sc=us&id=4577279


Partially wrong.
With my old p5k premium, even though the ram was on the QVL list of kingston and corsair, asus refused to say it was compatible.
I had my old board not picking up more than 2GB's on my E6500 CPU - due to old bios (and would never be updated).

Thus yes it might work, but if you have problems, don't expect anyone to be helping you with compatibility, or problems etc...especially not those monkey over at asus.


----------



## kizwan

Seriously, you summarize that based on one case? If it guaranteed by memory manufacturer, you can always get support from them (memory manufacturer) if you have problem getting it to work as advertised.


----------



## Charlieboy

Hey everyone. So i'm in the last phases on my build.








She up and operation, though I installed Win7 x64 Home Edition, and if you know about H.E., you can only use 16gb. so I'm about to format and install Win7 Pro, but I noticed
something I thought was odd. My SSD that i'm using for my OS has 66GB used out of 111GB. I'm no expert on Win7, but that does seem like a lot of memory is it not?! The only things I consciously installed was a few programs from the ASUS motherboard's disc. I'm about to install Win7 x64 Pro right now, I'll keep you updated with how much space this one takes up. Anyone understand this? Is there something I'm missing?!


----------



## Charlieboy

I have 62GB of "USED SPACE" on my SSD. I don't understand. Does windows really take that much space?

Research:
"_My Windows 7 system uses 53GB. It has no pagefile, but it does have a 10GB hibernate file. I have Microsoft Office 2007, Visio, and Visual Studio 2008, Adobe Web Premium CS4 (includes Photoshop, Dreamweaver, Acrobat, Flash, etc.), as well as a couple of dozen other smaller apps. No games. For that amount of space I'd consider 80GB to be the minimum."
_

It seems like it's suppose to be that big. *sigh* 120GB for OS's doesn't seem feasible anyone. Going to attempt to install OS's onto my VM, on my SSD and see how it goes. Will update.


----------



## Dwalmsley76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> I have 62GB of "USED SPACE" on my SSD. I don't understand. Does windows really take that much space?
> 
> Research:
> "_My Windows 7 system uses 53GB. It has no pagefile, but it does have a 10GB hibernate file. I have Microsoft Office 2007, Visio, and Visual Studio 2008, Adobe Web Premium CS4 (includes Photoshop, Dreamweaver, Acrobat, Flash, etc.), as well as a couple of dozen other smaller apps. No games. For that amount of space I'd consider 80GB to be the minimum."
> _
> 
> It seems like it's suppose to be that big. *sigh* 120GB for OS's doesn't seem feasible anyone. Going to attempt to install OS's onto my VM, on my SSD and see how it goes. Will update.


My Windows is Diectory is only 17gb but it does partition a Restricted area.


----------



## PhantomTaco

So guys I've been thinking about setting up a RAID 0 on my sabertooth, but while looking through how to do this I've been stumbling. Here's what I want to do:

Right now I've got 4 drives on my system: SSD 256gb (Windows files, essential software etc), HD 1 2TB (Program files, media half full), HD 2 2TB (Media, 95% full), HD 3 2TB (empty). What I want to do is merge these three drives together so they appear as one drive (be it RAID 0 or JBOD). Thing is I believe I first need to have my BIOS/drives in RAID mode, but they're in AHCI mode. How do I go about doing this? I know that once they can be put in RAID 0 I can use intel RST or something else to set the empty drive to RAID 0 then copy the first media drive onto it and then format it and extend, and repeat for the third drive.

Hope my explanation makes sense, and any help is appreciated


----------



## Joa3d43

Hello Sabertooth fans (pardon the pun)









...Sabertooth Z77 alignment and and extra fans = nice cheap GPU insurance







: http://www.overclock.net/t/1349927/cheap-temperature-insurance-for-oced-sli-asus-direct-cu-ii


----------



## Charlieboy

May I ask how you were able to do so? Do you have a SSD?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Seriously, you summarize that based on one case
> 
> If it guaranteed by memory manufacturer, you can always get support from them (memory manufacturer) if you have problem getting it to work as advertised.


Just giving you a warning, behind asus' methodologies,that's it


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Hey everyone. So i'm in the last phases on my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> She up and operation, though I installed Win7 x64 Home Edition, and if you know about H.E., you can only use 16gb. so I'm about to format and install Win7 Pro, but I noticed
> something I thought was odd. My SSD that i'm using for my OS has 66GB used out of 111GB. I'm no expert on Win7, but that does seem like a lot of memory is it not?! The only things I consciously installed was a few programs from the ASUS motherboard's disc. I'm about to install Win7 x64 Pro right now, I'll keep you updated with how much space this one takes up. Anyone understand this? Is there something I'm missing?!


If you have 32gb of ram and Pro, then your page file/virtual memory will default to 32gb worth. Size it down. Disable hibernation. Should be much better at that point. I'd say about 17-30gb is normal for a Windows 7 install with sp1 and all the updates after.


----------



## Charlieboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> If you have 32gb of ram and Pro, then your page file/virtual memory will default to 32gb worth. Size it down. Disable hibernation. Should be much better at that point. I'd say about 17-30gb is normal for a Windows 7 install with sp1 and all the updates after.


Thank you so much. I thought it might have relied on the hardware. My chum told me to re-whipe everything and resinstall my OS. Long process with all the drivers + etc.

For anyone with the same issue, my chum told me to Disable Virtual memory for the Boot drive (SSD C:/) and all the virtual memory on my hard drive.


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Thank you so much. I thought it might have relied on the hardware. My chum told me to re-whipe everything and resinstall my OS. Long process with all the drivers + etc.
> 
> For anyone with the same issue, my chum told me to Disable Virtual memory for the Boot drive (SSD C:/) and all the virtual memory on my hard drive.


Read this thread. My current install is working flawlessly using all of his tips and tricks for optimization.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> Thank you so much. I thought it might have relied on the hardware. My chum told me to re-whipe everything and resinstall my OS. Long process with all the drivers + etc.
> 
> For anyone with the same issue, my chum told me to Disable Virtual memory for the Boot drive (SSD C:/) and all the virtual memory on my hard drive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nerdybeat*
> 
> Read this thread. My current install is working flawlessly using all of his tips and tricks for optimization.


My only concern with this is some games and applications do like virtual memory and while I had a 2gb page file and 16gb of ram, I was still having crashing issues. I raised it up to 4gb and I've been fine since.


----------



## Solonowarion

Can I configure the boot screen. Upon boot it has the Sabertooth logo then goes into the raid config main splash screen then back to the SB one quickly then loads windows.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Can I configure the boot screen. Upon boot it has the Sabertooth logo then goes into the raid config main splash screen then back to the SB one quickly then loads windows.


I think in the "boot" section in the bios - check there, "show full screen at logo" can be disabled/enabled.
I think that's what you mean.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I think in the "boot" section in the bios - check there, "show full screen at logo" can be disabled/enabled.
> I think that's what you mean.


ahh for option rom under the boot menu. keep current instead of force bios solved it.


----------



## Charlieboy

quick 2 set question.
Was anyone able to get the HDMI port to work with the current BIOS firmware?

Research: _The HDMI did not work if you're using a HDMI 1.4 cable. It will work with 1.3 HDMI cable, as another user mentioned earlier.
My HDMI was working when i used a HDMI -> DVI-D cable. But my HDMI1.4 didn't._

I can't tell if my cable is 1.3 or 1.4. Not sure there's a physical difference.

I'm can run a Geforce GT240 512MB DDR3 Graphics card for 1 monitor, and a Geforce GTX 650 for the other two.
Is this a bad idea? I heard it's a bad idea to run one ****ty card, and one (better) one.


----------



## Lesiunta

YO dudes!

New BIOS out!

Version 1805

Description SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1805
Improve system stability.
File Size
4,41 (MBytes) 2013.01.10 update

http://www.service.asus.com/#!downloads/c1wax


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> YO dudes!
> 
> New BIOS out!
> 
> Version 1805
> 
> Description SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1805
> Improve system stability.
> File Size
> 4,41 (MBytes) 2013.01.10 update
> 
> http://www.service.asus.com/#!downloads/c1wax


Lol - old news








http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4350#post_19015901


----------



## jt705

There is also a 1805 Modded bios

http://www.station-drivers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=4259

Which includes:

VGA ROM: 2132 -> 2158
RAID ROM: 11.0.0.1339 -> 11.6.0.1702
LAN ROM: 1.3.81 -> 1.4.03


----------



## lawlbringer

So I had a really weird issue today and I believe it's related to the newest BIOS(1805.)

Today I re-installed my GTX 670 that I had out for about 2 months while I was trying to sell it. Long story short, when I put it back into my system and loaded the Nvidia drivers, Windows 7 would not give me any video signal after the Windows 7 splash animation. Here's what I tried to get it to boot/get video signal:

1. Tried different cables
2. Tried to set PCI-e as the default video option in the BIOS
3. Tried resetting BIOS to, then doing the above step
4. Tried uninstalling Intel HD 4000 Graphics driver through Safe Mode

Everything worked fine AFTER step 4, and when I went to reload Windows 7 from scratch(I was paranoid the card had gone bad) I forgot to disable the Intel HD 4000 driver from auto-installing via Windows Updates. Well, sure enough, when that update was installing...BOOM. Screen went blank. I tried to plug an HDMI cable into the motherboard's HDMI port and didn't have signal there either. I went back through Safe Mode and uninstalled the drivers for the Intel integrated graphics, and like normal, Windows booted fine again.

This never happened before when I had this same card in this same PC earlier this year. Both co-existed without problems and I never installed the Lucid VirtuaMVP or whatever it's called software. Now device manager has "Standard VGA Adapter" shown with a yellow exclamation mark/code 10..."this device cannot start." This has to be BIOS related IMO, since that's the only variable that's changed/updated. Has anyone had any issues like these?

Also, is there truly no real way to disable the integrated graphics? If so, that's beyond absurd considering the price of this board. It's bad enough this board didn't come with a power/reset switch on it.

EDIT: Everything but AIDA64 reports incorrect CPU frequencies and such too.

UPDATE: Flashing back to the previous BIOS version 1708 solves the problem because it disables the integrated graphics correctly if a discrete card is installed. Everything seems OKAY now, and my BIOS settings aren't resetting randomly like they were with 1805.


----------



## kizwan

I don't think it's BIOS issue. Code 10 basically means no driver is installed. Basically this is driver issue. There are a couple of things you can do; 1) disabled auto-update for Intel HD Graphics & 2) install only latest driver straight from Intel.

The correct way IMO, both Intel HD Graphics & discrete GPUs should coexist without any problem. I believe there should be a setting in BIOS to disabled Intel HD Graphics. If it missing in 1805, probably something gone wrong when you flashed 1805 before.

Can anyone with BIOS 1805 confirm whether there is Intel HD Graphics setting exist or not (for enabled/disabled)?


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlieboy*
> 
> quick 2 set question.
> Was anyone able to get the HDMI port to work with the current BIOS firmware?
> 
> Research: _The HDMI did not work if you're using a HDMI 1.4 cable. It will work with 1.3 HDMI cable, as another user mentioned earlier.
> My HDMI was working when i used a HDMI -> DVI-D cable. But my HDMI1.4 didn't._
> 
> I can't tell if my cable is 1.3 or 1.4. Not sure there's a physical difference.
> 
> I'm can run a Geforce GT240 512MB DDR3 Graphics card for 1 monitor, and a Geforce GTX 650 for the other two.
> Is this a bad idea? I heard it's a bad idea to run one ****ty card, and one (better) one.


not sure about the cable issue, but you can't run video using two separate cards. It's either one or the other. The only thing that GT240 is good for is running physx.


----------



## Joa3d43

*Sabertooth Z77* compared to other boards w/major benchmarks at Swiss OC site

http://www.ocaholic.ch/xoops/html/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=806&page=6

*Sabertooth Z77* memory timing questions
*v v v*

...running 32 GB of G.Skill Trident X DDR3 2400 with these 'tighter' timings:



and getting these results:
*v v v*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







While good, I like to find out if any of you can suggest where to improve memory timings, noting that I run a 'daily setting' of between 4.8 GHz (regular work) and 5 GHz (gaming), and also a RamDisk which is sensitive re too aggressive timings, and at times do some 'speed runs' where tight memory may be also an issue:
*v v v*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







...not quite at this level, though (world record for I7 3770, Gigabyte board):
*v v v*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thanks for your help







re memory timing suggestions !


----------



## MKHunt

Also, running any BIOS back from 15XX to 1805, my 2600k will never downclock to anything below 3599MHz. I manually enabled C1e C3/C6 as well. The voltage is pegged at 1.21V 24/7 which is incredibly annoying.

I am also unsure if the board would just plain work better with a 3770k. Thoughts? I'm looking at a GTX 790 or w/e nvidia will release as its equivalent and I think the PCIe bandwidth would help there. I'd be interested in delidding/relidding as well if it could make Ivy run at Sandy temps.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My gawd that's absolutely beautiful!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey everyone, a while ago I showed you my slow-ish boot up time.
I did as suggested with the HDD sata ports, and removed them - but that didn't help!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey everyone, a while ago I showed you my slow-ish boot up time.
> I did as suggested with the HDD sata ports, and removed them - but that didn't help!


The slow boot up time has also come back to haunt me again,
Something definitely not right with the bios on this mofo.

Thought I fixed it no problems for the past 3 to 4 weeks then today it rears its ugly head again.

Same as last time my optical drive ( Pioneer DVD Rom ) has disappeared as if it is not connected.
Do me a favor and check to see if any of your drives or connected sata devises are not showing in windows or in the bios.

If I swap around my sata plugs this fixes the issue for a while im going to flash to the latest bios now.
I have had this problem ever since the start with this board seriously considering RMA.

OK so no double post.....

1. Reset the cmos ( Yes you have to swap the pin on the mother board with no power for 30 secs )
2. Flash Using Bios via usb ( Do not use the usb 3 ) For flashing
3. Check to see in bios if all connected devises are showing.
4. Make sure your optical devise is not set as first boot, Set your operating system drive as first boot option.

Fixed the problem again normal boot time as before lets see how long it lasts this time.


----------



## fvbarc

Hi, i have to install on this mobo a revodrive3 pci-e 4x, a SB X-Fi pci-e 1x and a GeForce GTX580 pci-e 16x. The only way to do this is putting the video card in first pci-e 16x slot the revodrive in second pci-e 16x and SB in third pci-e 16x slot, but the GeForce runs at 8x


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fvbarc*
> 
> Hi, i have to install on this mobo a revodrive3 pci-e 4x, a SB X-Fi pci-e 1x and a GeForce GTX580 pci-e 16x. The only way to do this is putting the video card in first pci-e 16x slot the revodrive in second pci-e 16x and SB in third pci-e 16x slot, but the GeForce runs at 8x


In Z68/P67/Z75/Z77 motherboards the max supported slot bandwidth is 16x PCIE 2.0 (Sandy Bridge) or 16x PCIE 3.0 (Ivy Bridge).

The bottom PCIE slot is handled by the chipset though! If you can have your revodrive running at PCIE 4x then putting it in the bottom PCIEx16 slot will allow the 580 to run at 16x.

HOWEVER. A GTX 580 will not saturate a PCIE 2.0x8 slot. You are only losing 1-3% by running at x8. The ONLY GeForce 5XX series card to _"need"_ x16 is the GTX 590 and even then it only drops 8-12% performance in PCIE 2.0. For PCIE 3.0 x8 is fine for any current generation card.


----------



## fvbarc

if i use bottom pci-e for revodrive in 4x mode all slot 1x are disabled and i can't use X-Fi. So or i use the X-Fi card and my geforce at 8x or the video card at 16x and mobo integrated audio


----------



## gabecubano14

1805 MODDED BIOS? Has anybody confirmed that this is stable and what do the updates to the LAN ROM, etc actually do? Do they increase reliability of the ethernet controller or something? Please let me know. Is it safe or recommended to use a modded bios as well?

Thanks,
Gabe


----------



## Quatreo

Hi Guys,

I'm new and I have this board. It's been great for me so far. Only issue for me so far is the Assistant fan. They whine so much even if I turn them to silent or tweak the curve. I know I can replace the one in I/O slot with a Noctua 40mm fan which I already have one ordered. Do you guys have something good to replace the 35mm on the center board?

Thanks,
Quatreo


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatreo*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm new and I have this board. It's been great for me so far. Only issue for me so far is the Assistant fan. They whine so much even if I turn them to silent or tweak the curve. I know I can replace the one in I/O slot with a Noctua 40mm fan which I already have one ordered. Do you guys have something good to replace the 35mm on the center board?
> 
> Thanks,
> Quatreo


Most of us just removed the assist fans, They are noisy and annoying concept is good tho. If you could hook them up to a fan controller like I did at one stage you cant hear them at very low rpm.


----------



## Quatreo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Most of us just removed the assist fans, They are noisy and annoying concept is good tho. If you could hook them up to a fan controller like I did at one stage you cant hear them at very low rpm.


Won't it be hot if the hot air from the board will be trapped inside the armor without the fans moving them?


----------



## NoTSlappy

I wondered if anyone could give me some feedback on motherboard temperature.

At the moment mine is running at around 42ish and going up to almost 50 under load, the computer is in a fairly hot room tho.

Is this an acceptable temperature? I got both assist fans running too.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatreo*
> 
> Won't it be hot if the hot air from the board will be trapped inside the armor without the fans moving them?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoTSlappy*
> 
> I wondered if anyone could give me some feedback on motherboard temperature.
> At the moment mine is running at around 42ish and going up to almost 50 under load, the computer is in a fairly hot room tho.
> Is this an acceptable temperature? I got both assist fans running too.


Hey there!
This is to both of you







!

First of all 40-50c motherboard temps are deemed normal - especially under load - it also depend on your room temps.
I should stress that I wouldn't trust the asus ai suite II (as you can see from the link below with a false reading of 127c)

As for the asis fans, they hardly do anything - what they do do is make noisy sounds:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/3110#post_18494334

That post will show you temps of them running vs them unplugged.
Hopefully that should clear up some things









I don't have them running ever since that date, and my motherboard/cpu/ram etc are perfectly cool.
I would suggest having a good air flow in your case - as, yes the little fans might give a little air flow within the thermal armour, but what's important is having a good air flow throughout your whole motherboard, and thus cooling it at every point.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatreo*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm new and I have this board. It's been great for me so far. Only issue for me so far is the Assistant fan. They whine so much even if I turn them to silent or tweak the curve. I know I can replace the one in I/O slot with a Noctua 40mm fan which I already have one ordered. Do you guys have something good to replace the 35mm on the center board?
> 
> Thanks,
> Quatreo


The IO fan is the most important one because it brings in cool air from outside the case and directs it straight at the VRM heatsinks. There are dozens of 35mm fans but no really good quality ones. I tried about 10 different ones bought from different places and they were all basically the same. I ended up just using the stock one and turning it down. The 40mm Noctua is so quiet that I let it run nearly full speed all the time.

I got more significant results with the Noctua
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/3130#post_18504178


----------



## MKHunt

My feeling regarding the fans is this:

They are not necessary except in some test bench scenarios where flow is poor. Additionally, almost all cases these days are designed for bottom to top airflow. Thing of that tiny little I/O fan. It's pushing in, right? now let's model two scenarios:

*Air Coolng*: you most likely have a tall air cooler equipped with 120mm fans blowing towards the usual rear exit with another 120 or 140mm fan blowing out. So you have hot air being evacuated out the back of your case. Then assuming that tiny fan does anything with the I/O grill in place, it picks up warmed air and blows it back in, in a direction opposite your CPU cooler. Best case scenario you gain maybe 4 to 5C.

*Water Cooling*: With a loop in the case you are probably either evacuating warmed air out the back/top, or bringing warmed air in through a rad at the bottom or front. With any single rad AIO solution, the rad is probably at the back and the hot air out then hot air in situation is amplified. Furthermore, Newton's law of cooling shows us that nothing can cool itself via physical transfer to a temperature below it's surroundings. With a water setup, your chip has less airflow around it, so the board components tend to run slightly warmer. Also consider that a water setup, with its more efficient transfer, heats the air that passes through the rads much more than a heat sink (it just passes less air). That compounds a rear intake fan's problems even more.

So what if the rear I/ O fan is an exhaust? It's easier for air to snake in from around the fan than it is to actually travel under the thermal armor.

*tl;dr* This is a mid-enthusiast board. If its VRM scheme cant handle temps significantly less than the VRM on a GTX 560, it would not have an absurdly long warranty period.

And guys, anyone figure out why my 2600k still won't downclock? It's maddening.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My feeling regarding the fans is this:
> 
> They are not necessary except in some test bench scenarios where flow is poor. Additionally, almost all cases these days are designed for bottom to top airflow. Thing of that tiny little I/O fan. It's pushing in, right? now let's model two scenarios:
> 
> *Air Coolng*: you most likely have a tall air cooler equipped with 120mm fans blowing towards the usual rear exit with another 120 or 140mm fan blowing out. So you have hot air being evacuated out the back of your case. Then assuming that tiny fan does anything with the I/O grill in place, it picks up warmed air and blows it back in, in a direction opposite your CPU cooler. Best case scenario you gain maybe 4 to 5C.
> 
> *Water Cooling*: With a loop in the case you are probably either evacuating warmed air out the back/top, or bringing warmed air in through a rad at the bottom or front. With any single rad AIO solution, the rad is probably at the back and the hot air out then hot air in situation is amplified. Furthermore, Newton's law of cooling shows us that nothing can cool itself via physical transfer to a temperature below it's surroundings. With a water setup, your chip has less airflow around it, so the board components tend to run slightly warmer. Also consider that a water setup, with its more efficient transfer, heats the air that passes through the rads much more than a heat sink (it just passes less air). That compounds a rear intake fan's problems even more.
> 
> So what if the rear I/ O fan is an exhaust? It's easier for air to snake in from around the fan than it is to actually travel under the thermal armor.
> 
> *tl;dr* This is a mid-enthusiast board. If its VRM scheme cant handle temps significantly less than the VRM on a GTX 560, it would not have an absurdly long warranty period.
> 
> And guys, anyone figure out why my 2600k still won't downclock? It's maddening.


The ONLY thing I disagree with in your post is your OCN title (looking at your join date)








Well said mate!
As for downclocking - have you tried difference BIOS'?


----------



## CastorTroy45

just picked her up from my local tigerdirect store...it was time to upgrade from the good ole p67 extreme4.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Congratulations


----------



## audioxbliss

Hi guys, just picked up this board to replace my P8P67 Pro, and prepare for a switch to a 3770k. Having an issue, though... it seems the motherboard won't register any input. At boot, I can't get into BIOS and can't get past things like the new CPU message. If I manage to get to Windows, it still won't register (not entirely surprising as I've switched motherboards). Anyone have any ideas about it? I've tried my own keyboard (OCN Ducky 9008G2) and some generic POS I found in the closet. I tried unplugging everything except my monitor and keyboard with no success, and tried all 8 USB ports.

I suspect there's an issue with legacy USB support, but I can't figure out how I should go about fixing it without access to BIOS. I've searched high and low, and nothing I've found is applicable. Of course, my search skills have never been spectacular.

Preemptive thank you to you all









Edit: Nevermind, managed to use the BIOS FlashBack button thing to flash the latest BIOS file and it fixed the issue


----------



## majnu

Regarding the 35mm intake fan on the motherboard here is my 2p

Remove it because:

1) No noticeable difference in temps (either AI Suite 2 is faulty or there really is no difference)
2) They whine and are loud
3) They block the top PCIE 2.0 X1 port
4) You can't find suitable low noise high cfm replacements (You can in 40mm, but not 35mm)
5) If you have XFire/SLI then you really don't want to use the bottom PCIE 2.0 X16 slot as it will block the GPU intake and increase temps by 5-10 degrees. (Unless you have watercooling this doesn't matter)

I've left the exhaust one in however (The one near the I/O shield) as it's not doing any harm.


----------



## ravenomega

Hey guys, new owner of this amazing board. I had a question about it though. I want to switch from Windows to Linux Ubuntu or Mint and I noticed Windows runs a few processes for the board itself for controlling fans etc. If I switch to Linux will the board lose those functions? Is it recommended that I stick with Windows?

My build:

Case: Corsair Special Edition White Graphite Series 600T
CPU: Intel i7-3770K Quad-Core Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz
CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
RAM: Corsair Vengeance: 8gb (2 x 4GB) DDR3
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
SSD: Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB SSD
Power Supply: Corsair HX series HX750 750W


----------



## Totally Dubbed

The processes are generally linked for the software to run. I actually don't have them running, as I utterly dislike the software


----------



## ravenomega

So I'm guessing ASUS Suite 2 controls those? The only time I use that is for temps and updating my bios lol.


----------



## ravenomega

So I'm guessing ASUS Suite 2 controls those? The only time I use that is for temps and updating my bios lol.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ravenomega*
> 
> So I'm guessing ASUS Suite 2 controls those? The only time I use that is for temps and updating my bios lol.


yup - ai suite II is the one.
ie. fan control services etc.

I even found exception in my firewall for ai suite II...(guess that's for the bios downloads)


----------



## Raptor87

Hey everyone! I just installed this board and noticed there are a lot of issues with the default (release) BIOS. USB compatability being the main issue. I am just wondering if the latest BIOS is the best one or is an older one more stable(better). Just before I flash, I would like to be sure that I am installing the one that will best work for the board.

Thanks!

Specs:
z77 Sabertooth
i5-2500k @ stock volt/clocks
16GB RipJaw-X 1600 CL8
2x 120 Kingston Hyper X SSD
500gb Seagate Cuda
1TB Seagate Cuda
AX 850
2x GTX 560ti Hawks in SLI


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor87*
> 
> Hey everyone! I just installed this board and noticed there are a lot of issues with the default (release) BIOS. USB compatability being the main issue. I am just wondering if the latest BIOS is the best one or is an older one more stable(better). Just before I flash, I would like to be sure that I am installing the one that will best work for the board.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Specs:
> z77 Sabertooth
> i5-2500k @ stock volt/clocks
> 16GB RipJaw-X 1600 CL8
> 2x 120 Kingston Hyper X SSD
> 500gb Seagate Cuda
> 1TB Seagate Cuda
> AX 850
> 2x GTX 560ti Hawks in SLI


depends on people really - most seem to have no problems with the latest bios vs other revisions.


----------



## Raptor87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> depends on people really - most seem to have no problems with the latest bios vs other revisions.


Sweet, I'll flash to the latest after I get off work and hopefully it will clear up those issues.

Thanks!


----------



## ravenomega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The processes are generally linked for the software to run. I actually don't have them running, as I utterly dislike the software


Thanks for the help! : )


----------



## Bigjeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatreo*
> 
> Won't it be hot if the hot air from the board will be trapped inside the armor without the fans moving them?


Mine are running on "silent" and I really can't hear them even under load. I have a Thor Rosewill case. Quiet as a mouse.


----------



## Bigjeep

Speaking of that nasty "AI Suite 2". I read that people were getting slow internet speeds. So I unchecked the "network controler" thinking everything was fine. Well I discovered that my Internet speed was slow, and not putting two and two together, I went though my Internet service. Well after weeks of them not being able to solve the case, New modem and the company sending a guy to the house and them checking all the outside poles in the area, I remembered the "AI Suite 2" program and deleted it.







Bam, my Internet speed was back to normal. I like the program so I downloaded it again but did not check the network controller, so it never installed. Well everything is fine and the internet speed is still humming. Case closed!









PS -- I told the company that the modem solved the issue!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjeep*
> 
> Speaking of that nasty "AI Suite 2". I read that people were getting slow internet speeds. So I unchecked the "network controler" thinking everything was fine. Well I discovered that my Internet speed was slow, and not putting two and two together, I went though my Internet service. Well after weeks of them not being able to solve the case, New modem and the company sending a guy to the house and them checking all the outside poles in the area, I remembered the "AI Suite 2" program and deleted it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bam, my Internet speed was back to normal. I like the program so I downloaded it again but did not check the network controller, so it never installed. Well everything is fine and the internet speed is still humming. Case closed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS -- I told the company that the modem solved the issue!


hahahhaa!
Yup - I had that with upload speeds.

Asus breaks more things with their softwares than it helps.


----------



## MKHunt

Blargh. BIOS 1504 through 1805 all don't downclock my proc. Well, they downclock it... but a downclock from 3800 to 3499 at the same volts doesn't count.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Blargh. BIOS 1504 through 1805 all don't downclock my proc. Well, they downclock it... but a downclock from 3800 to 3499 at the same volts doesn't count.


How are you trying to downclock?
3.8ghz is the TURBO speed used in speedstep on your CPU.

If you don't want it going from 3.5/4 to 3.8/9 then you should switch off speedstep & turbo.

Finally don't forget to turn your windows power options to balanced, and check the min CPU state is on 5% and not 100%


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> How are you trying to downclock?
> 3.8ghz is the TURBO speed used in speedstep on your CPU.
> 
> If you don't want it going from 3.5/4 to 3.8/9 then you should switch off speedstep & turbo.
> 
> Finally don't forget to turn your windows power options to balanced, and check the *min CPU state* is on 5% and not 100%


Wow. I feel stupid now. Thank you so much for reminding me of that. With my old Gigabyte mobo, it had a mind of its own, and even with the minimum power state at 100%, it would downclock to 1600MHz. I completely forgot about that! All fixed now. My idle temps are back down to a nice 22C now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Wow. I feel stupid now. Thank you so much for reminding me of that. With my old Gigabyte mobo, it had a mind of its own, and even with the minimum power state at 100%, it would downclock to 1600MHz. I completely forgot about that! All fixed now. My idle temps are back down to a nice 22C now.


haha pleasure


----------



## ravenomega

Just a thought..The rear 40mm fan on the motherboard blows air in right? So if it's always throwing air in, won't the dust eventually build up and defeat the purpose of the thermal armor?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey everyone, a while ago I showed you my slow-ish boot up time.
> I did as suggested with the HDD sata ports, and removed them - but that didn't help!


What did you do with them?

You tried all the stuff I suggested? I don't recall hearing back?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> What did you do with them?
> 
> You tried all the stuff I suggested? I don't recall hearing back?


Yup tried everything:
-Unplugged the HDD's
-Changed sata location of the SSD
-Changed wire of SSD
-Re-installed drivers and controllers (latest from asus' website)

Basically that.


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjeep*
> 
> Speaking of that nasty "AI Suite 2". I read that people were getting slow internet speeds. So I unchecked the "network controler" thinking everything was fine. Well I discovered that my Internet speed was slow, and not putting two and two together, I went though my Internet service. Well after weeks of them not being able to solve the case, New modem and the company sending a guy to the house and them checking all the outside poles in the area, I remembered the "AI Suite 2" program and deleted it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bam, my Internet speed was back to normal. I like the program so I downloaded it again but did not check the network controller, so it never installed. Well everything is fine and the internet speed is still humming. Case closed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS -- I told the company that the modem solved the issue!


AI Suite 2 is garbage, it's a shame that the USB Fast charge cannot be turned on via bios as I find that handy, But I'll be damned if I install AI suite or any of it's components to get it. I think next time I'll go with Gigabyte unless Asus manage to integrate the features from the software into Bios.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> AI Suite 2 is garbage, it's a shame that the USB Fast charge cannot be turned on via bios as I find that handy, But I'll be damned if I install AI suite or any of it's components to get it. I think next time I'll go with Gigabyte unless Asus manage to integrate the features from the software into Bios.


summed up for what I do when updating my bios:
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1223089/a/799898/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/sort/display_order/


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> *Bigjeep* wrote...So I unchecked the "network controler" thinking everything was fine. Well I discovered that my Internet speed was slow...


...yup, I leave network I-Control off after noticing that it affects performance negatively (pics below)...

...however, I don't hate Asus' latest AI suite as much as other folks and find it useful to 'step-by-step' approach a great overclocking range in Windows 7...once there I I reset BIOS and turn AI Suite 'off' - did that with Sabertooth run at over 5.2 GHz at 1.464v (in OCN 5GHz club table) - AI Suite helps you find the general range, especially on Digi Plus settings that work best for your particular chip and speed (as it is non-linear), then the final steps are pure BIOS. ALSO: Make sure you have the latest Sabertooth Z77 version downloaded as it improved significantly upon earlier versions

My Internet speed *Without* Network I-control enabled



My Internet speed *With* Network I-control enabled


----------



## Bigjeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> ...yup, I leave network I-Control off after noticing that it affects performance negatively (pics below)...
> 
> ...however, I don't hate Asus' latest AI suite as much as other folks and find it useful to 'step-by-step' approach a great overclocking range in Windows 7...once there I I reset BIOS and turn AI Suite 'off' - did that with Sabertooth run at over 5.2 GHz at 1.464v (in OCN 5GHz club table) - AI Suite helps you find the general range, especially on Digi Plus settings that work best for your particular chip and speed (as it is non-linear), then the final steps are pure BIOS. ALSO: Make sure you have the latest Sabertooth Z77 version downloaded as it improved significantly upon earlier versions
> 
> My Internet speed *Without* Network I-control enabled
> 
> 
> 
> My Internet speed *With* Network I-control enabled


Unchecking network controler wasn't enough. I had to completly uninstall it! Still have AI Suite.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yup tried everything:
> -Unplugged the HDD's
> -Changed sata location of the SSD
> -Changed wire of SSD
> -Re-installed drivers and controllers (latest from asus' website)
> 
> Basically that.


Mainly this post and the one below it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4350_30#post_19016813

I'd still like to see what windows reports, and a screenshot of task manager and autoruns.

The only thing that seemed long was your post time, but boot time seemed fine.


----------



## BumbleBoner

I can't seem access my BIOS after upgrading to 1708. While everything works dandy and fine, it just seems to skip initializing any of the USB devices (keyboard's numlock and caplocks don't toggle) when POST-ing.

I've read a few of these instances across the net but haven't come across any solutions. Anybody have any ideas?

Only bios 1504 works properly for me. Anything after that and i can't press Del or F2 to get into BIOS.


----------



## Inacoma79

if you haven already, try re flashing current bios or older version.


----------



## BumbleBoner

As I've mentioned I'm on bios 1504 as it's the only version that works currently. Any version after that and I can't access the bios by pressing Del or F2 as it doesn't detect and initialize the keyboard.

Edit: Flashed to 1805, and I still can't get into BIOS.

I've tried flashing back to 1504, and setting Intel Fast Boot off, with a full USB initialization and extended POST time to 10 seconds and it seems to be wiped on the flash.

Any alternate ideas I can try?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Mainly this post and the one below it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4350_30#post_19016813
> 
> I'd still like to see what windows reports, and a screenshot of task manager and autoruns.
> 
> The only thing that seemed long was your post time, but boot time seemed fine.


completely forgot about that - I'll do that now







!


----------



## Chillie

sooo i have not been on here in while and im sure this topic has been touched already. But. Has anyone been overclocking an i5-3570K past 4.5? if so why? and please post you voltage settings (bios) along screenshots (cpuid ect.). I've gotten my 3570K to 4.7 with no issues while playing Battlefield 3 for a couple of hours however im not sure if i have the correct voltage settings for a sustained stress test.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> sooo i have not been on here in while and im sure this topic has been touched already. But. Has anyone been overclocking an i5-3570K past 4.5? if so why? and please post you voltage settings (bios) along screenshots (cpuid ect.). I've gotten my 3570K to 4.7 with no issues while playing Battlefield 3 for a couple of hours however im not sure if i have the correct voltage settings for a sustained stress test.


I got my i7 to 4.8, but only for a few minutes.
I didn't want to go over 1.35v.

Every chip is different remember








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Mainly this post and the one below it.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4350_30#post_19016813
> 
> I'd still like to see what windows reports, and a screenshot of task manager and autoruns.
> 
> The only thing that seemed long was your post time, but boot time seemed fine.


RIGHT!
Did it - quite interesting I must say!

1. boot time:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Code:



Code:


BootTsVersion 2 
  BootStartTime 2013-01-23T14:24:30.640400300Z 
  BootEndTime 2013-01-23T14:26:14.829414100Z 
  SystemBootInstance 179 
  UserBootInstance 176 
  BootTime 26420 
  MainPathBootTime 11820 
  BootKernelInitTime 16 
  BootDriverInitTime 367 
  BootDevicesInitTime 5473 
  BootPrefetchInitTime 0 
  BootPrefetchBytes 0 
  BootAutoChkTime 0 
  BootSmssInitTime 4339 
  BootCriticalServicesInitTime 247 
  BootUserProfileProcessingTime 101 
  BootMachineProfileProcessingTime 0 
  BootExplorerInitTime 751 
  BootNumStartupApps 15 
  BootPostBootTime 14600 
  BootIsRebootAfterInstall false 
  BootRootCauseStepImprovementBits 0 
  BootRootCauseGradualImprovementBits 0 
  BootRootCauseStepDegradationBits 0 
  BootRootCauseGradualDegradationBits 0 
  BootIsDegradation false 
  BootIsStepDegradation false 
  BootIsGradualDegradation false 
  BootImprovementDelta 0 
  BootDegradationDelta 0 
  BootIsRootCauseIdentified false 
  OSLoaderDuration 562 
  BootPNPInitStartTimeMS 16 
  BootPNPInitDuration 5488 
  OtherKernelInitDuration 168 
  SystemPNPInitStartTimeMS 5651 
  SystemPNPInitDuration 352 
  SessionInitStartTimeMS 6009 
  Session0InitDuration 2700 
  Session1InitDuration 107 
  SessionInitOtherDuration 1531 
  WinLogonStartTimeMS 10348 
  OtherLogonInitActivityDuration 618 
  UserLogonWaitDuration 122





2. boot degradation:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







What can I do to make it faster or determine how to make it faster?
Seems like POST windows logo is what the biggest portion of the time is being spent - as correctly calculated by yourself
BootPostBootTime 14600

vs windows logo to system:
MainPathBootTime 11820

Windows is right with its boot time at 26seconds - so we're not off in that respect

3. as requested task manager (i turned off the pc, and then powered it back on) - that's all the processes on boot


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chillie

Very true every cpu is different. I've been running my 4.7 oc at 1.29v which seems pretty damn low for a oc greater than 4.3. also do you adjust your voltage in the bios using a offset of what number or do you even use a offset?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> sooo i have not been on here in while and im sure this topic has been touched already. But. Has anyone been overclocking an i5-3570K past 4.5? if so why? and please post you voltage settings (bios) along screenshots (cpuid ect.). I've gotten my 3570K to 4.7 with no issues while playing Battlefield 3 for a couple of hours however im not sure if i have the correct voltage settings for a sustained stress test.


folks been having MUCH better goes delidding... i just have mine stable at 4.5 because i didn't want to delid and max until i have some money to replace if anything went wrong







voltages for the ivys seem to always be a lot higher...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Very true every cpu is different. I've been running my 4.7 oc at 1.29v which seems pretty damn low for a oc greater than 4.3. also do you adjust your voltage in the bios using a offset of what number or do you even use a offset?


Check my bios settings in my sig bro








Remember I key the term stability for people that have 12hr of prime screenshots.

I could probably hit 4.8 with around 1.45v, stable.
But I don't need to run my chip that hot (which will go beyond TJ max) and more so, don't want any sort of degradation.
Let's just put it out there:
You got a good chip compared to 90% of people I know. So happy days for you!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> RIGHT!
> Did it - quite interesting I must say!
> 
> 1. boot time:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> BootTsVersion 2
> BootStartTime 2013-01-23T14:24:30.640400300Z
> BootEndTime 2013-01-23T14:26:14.829414100Z
> SystemBootInstance 179
> UserBootInstance 176
> BootTime 26420
> MainPathBootTime 11820
> BootKernelInitTime 16
> BootDriverInitTime 367
> BootDevicesInitTime 5473
> BootPrefetchInitTime 0
> BootPrefetchBytes 0
> BootAutoChkTime 0
> BootSmssInitTime 4339
> BootCriticalServicesInitTime 247
> BootUserProfileProcessingTime 101
> BootMachineProfileProcessingTime 0
> BootExplorerInitTime 751
> BootNumStartupApps 15
> BootPostBootTime 14600
> BootIsRebootAfterInstall false
> BootRootCauseStepImprovementBits 0
> BootRootCauseGradualImprovementBits 0
> BootRootCauseStepDegradationBits 0
> BootRootCauseGradualDegradationBits 0
> BootIsDegradation false
> BootIsStepDegradation false
> BootIsGradualDegradation false
> BootImprovementDelta 0
> BootDegradationDelta 0
> BootIsRootCauseIdentified false
> OSLoaderDuration 562
> BootPNPInitStartTimeMS 16
> BootPNPInitDuration 5488
> OtherKernelInitDuration 168
> SystemPNPInitStartTimeMS 5651
> SystemPNPInitDuration 352
> SessionInitStartTimeMS 6009
> Session0InitDuration 2700
> Session1InitDuration 107
> SessionInitOtherDuration 1531
> WinLogonStartTimeMS 10348
> OtherLogonInitActivityDuration 618
> UserLogonWaitDuration 122
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. boot degradation:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can I do to make it faster or determine how to make it faster?
> Seems like POST windows logo is what the biggest portion of the time is being spent - as correctly calculated by yourself
> BootPostBootTime 14600
> 
> vs windows logo to system:
> MainPathBootTime 11820
> 
> Windows is right with its boot time at 26seconds - so we're not off in that respect
> 
> 3. as requested task manager (i turned off the pc, and then powered it back on) - that's all the processes on boot
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just from your task manager I can see several that you don't need to start up. Dropbox, intel usb monitor, skype updater, etc.

Toning those down might shave some time off, but for the most part, I think your boot time is as good as it's going to get. Win8 is the only solution to faster boot up or putting the machine to sleep.
Mouse and keyboard drivers also load during that windows 7 logo portion.

The only other thing I noticed was the black screen delay between your sabertooth logo and starting the windows boot. But it really wasn't even that long.

But, what sort of numbers are you looking for?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Just from your task manager I can see several that you don't need to start up. Dropbox, intel usb monitor, skype updater, etc.
> 
> Toning those down might shave some time off, but for the most part, I think your boot time is as good as it's going to get. Win8 is the only solution to faster boot up or putting the machine to sleep.
> Mouse and keyboard drivers also load during that windows 7 logo portion.
> 
> The only other thing I noticed was the black screen delay between your sabertooth logo and starting the windows boot. But it really wasn't even that long.
> 
> But, what sort of numbers are you looking for?


I'm looking for 20seconds, total boot time - ie 10 seconds faster.

I honestly don't think POST should take 14seconds.
Only thing I can think of is BIOS revisions.

As for the tasks - updater etc can be taken off indeed, but dropbox etc I would like running








I have tried disabling, and boot time hardly speeds up - if by anything at all lol

Appreciate the help by the way - thanks again








2nd +rep







!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm looking for 20seconds, total boot time - ie 10 seconds faster.
> 
> I honestly don't think POST should take 14seconds.
> Only thing I can think of is BIOS revisions.
> 
> As for the tasks - updater etc can be taken off indeed, but dropbox etc I would like running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried disabling, and boot time hardly speeds up - if by anything at all lol
> 
> Appreciate the help by the way - thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd +rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Ty for the rep, but I don't want to give up on this until you are satisfied. Part of me feels like that may be impossible with your hardware without Raid-ed SSDs.

If you give me a full list from the program Autoruns, I can tell you one by one which you can disable or delay or set to manual. We can do this via teamviewer as well if you'd like.

Just keep in mind, the more you have running, the greater the delay.

Have you also done these: (should shave a few seconds off)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> There have been a few people to post about slow start up speeds with an SSD drive. I have a few recommendations for you if you are looking for super fast boot up speeds and have a Sabertooth Z77.
> 
> 1.) Go into the Advanced Setting of the BIOS. Go to the Boot menu, and scroll down to Full Screen Logo. Disable this.
> 
> 2.) When you do, an option will appear (the name of which I can't remember), but it will have something to do with a wait time and it is 5 seconds by default. Change this to three. I have found three seconds is still plenty of time to hit delete to get into the Bios.
> 
> 3.) This one will disable the windows splash screen displayed before entering your password to get into windows.
> 1 - Click on the Start Menu.
> 2 - Click on Control Panel.
> 3 - Click on System and Security.
> 4 - Click on Administrative Tools.
> 5 - Double click on System Configuration.
> 6 - Click on the Boot tab.
> 7 -- Check the box called No GUI Boot
> 
> Here is a link to some other things you can do to perhaps increase the performance of the SSD:
> http://www.tech-forums.net/pc/f128/ssd-tweak-guide-236563/
> 
> Of course, make sure the firmware on your SSD is the latest and make sure all of your drivers and BIOSes are up to date.
> And be careful, especially if you decide to do some of the tweaks that involve registry editing!!!


EDIT: Also, with the sabertooth, Win8 brings:

Instant OS Login
ASUS has released new hardware and software designs to shorten system boot-up time to 2-seconds* for a smoother user experience that removes annoying delays under Windows 8, and even previous versions of Windows. Faster system boot and restart means Windows starts quicker and higher efficiency - No more waiting around.

But then...you'd have to go to Win8


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Ty for the rep, but I don't want to give up on this until you are satisfied. Part of me feels like that may be impossible with your hardware without Raid-ed SSDs.
> 
> If you give me a full list from the program Autoruns, I can tell you one by one which you can disable or delay or set to manual. We can do this via teamviewer as well if you'd like.
> 
> Just keep in mind, the more you have running, the greater the delay.
> 
> Have you also done these: (should shave a few seconds off)


I'll try these tomorrow.

As for the speed - well the ONLY thing that gets me, is the fact that it used to be FASTER before I re-installed windows fully clean again.
I feel that it is bios related.
I will try downgrading the bios tomorrow, just to see


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'll try these tomorrow.
> 
> As for the speed - well the ONLY thing that gets me, is the fact that it used to be FASTER before I re-installed windows fully clean again.
> I feel that it is bios related.
> I will try downgrading the bios tomorrow, just to see


Sounds good, I'm still running 1504.
Also, my boot time *was* super fast before I installed video drivers, ethernet drivers, anti-virus, programs etc. Win7 boot times get slower after all that stuff, guaranteed.

I also added an edit above


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Sounds good, I'm still running 1504.
> Also, my boot time *was* super fast before I installed video drivers, ethernet drivers, anti-virus, programs etc. Win7 boot times get slower after all that stuff, guaranteed.
> 
> I also added an edit above


ahh makes sense!
And no screw win 8 lol.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Sounds good, I'm still running 1504.
> Also, my boot time *was* super fast before I installed video drivers, ethernet drivers, anti-virus, programs etc. Win7 boot times get slower after all that stuff, guaranteed.
> 
> I also added an edit above


As a test, could you uninstall eset (fully), then reboot. Then do your tests again? I know on my current rig (a q9550 w/out an ssd), eset's kernel takes 30 seconds of bootup time. You can also try Soluto, it does a fine job at providing a gui for bootup times and has some other pretty cool info gathering parts too.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BumbleBoner*
> 
> I can't seem access my BIOS after upgrading to 1708. While everything works dandy and fine, it just seems to skip initializing any of the USB devices (keyboard's numlock and caplocks don't toggle) when POST-ing.
> 
> I've read a few of these instances across the net but haven't come across any solutions. Anybody have any ideas?
> 
> Only bios 1504 works properly for me. Anything after that and i can't press Del or F2 to get into BIOS.


Sounds strange but it may work, Before you flash your bios reset the cmos. If this dosent work check to see you don't have any of your devises plugged into the usb 3 ports it does not like this for some reason. My keyboard and mouse refused to work in the usb 3 ports.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Sounds strange but it may work, Before you flash your bios reset the cmos. If this dosent work check to see you don't have any of your devises plugged into the usb 3 ports it does not like this for some reason. My keyboard and mouse refused to work in the usb 3 ports.


mine work but USB 3 is supposed to be stickly for flash mem if im not mistaken. read that somewhere.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Ty for the rep, but I don't want to give up on this until you are satisfied. Part of me feels like that may be impossible with your hardware without Raid-ed SSDs.
> 
> If you give me a full list from the program Autoruns, I can tell you one by one which you can disable or delay or set to manual. We can do this via teamviewer as well if you'd like.
> 
> Just keep in mind, the more you have running, the greater the delay.


OK - so I tried as instructed.
DISABLING full screen logo seems to have sped it up
However thatg windows logo thing didn't.

What's interesting to note is that when disabling the windows logo - there were 4-6 blue lines like: "- - - " at the top of my screen. Which I found personally quite odd.
I'll move later tonight to the tweaks on that link - however will google each of them to make sure I know what they do. (I won't be touching registry that's for sure)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OK - so I tried as instructed.
> DISABLING full screen logo seems to have sped it up
> However thatg windows logo thing didn't.
> 
> What's interesting to note is that when disabling the windows logo - there were 4-6 blue lines like: "- - - " at the top of my screen. Which I found personally quite odd.
> I'll move later tonight to the tweaks on that link - however will google each of them to make sure I know what they do. (I won't be touching registry that's for sure)


Cool. Yeah no gui boot leaves those lines there. Odd, but hey it's Microsoft.

That link was posted by someone else. Take that with a grain of salt. The only tweaks I've done have been Seans SSD guide found on this forum.

I would really consider the Autoruns (disabling uneeded startups and services) and like that one guy mentioned anti-virus is known to slow down boot times.

Let me know if you want to teamviewer the autoruns thing.

-Fo


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Cool. Yeah no gui boot leaves those lines there. Odd, but hey it's Microsoft.
> 
> That link was posted by someone else. Take that with a grain of salt. The only tweaks I've done have been Seans SSD guide found on this forum.
> 
> I would really consider the Autoruns (disabling uneeded startups and services) and like that one guy mentioned anti-virus is known to slow down boot times.
> 
> Let me know if you want to teamviewer the autoruns thing.
> 
> -Fo


Already done that myself - disabled the things I don't need now.
Going to force flash (USB) the bios now to 1504 - that's what it came with, if I'm not mistaken. So I'll see if that has any impact on boot time.
As for the SSD things - yes I've already gone through the windows 7 optimisation guide on OCN - and chose the relevant things I wanted









The autoruns things are fine IMO.
Really it is time from pressing the ON switch to POST is the slowest part.
And I THINK (we shall see) that it is down to bios.

If I'm mistaken however, it could be as you said physical hardware - ie the asus DX.
But of interested actually for PCI-E link speed.
When I ran 3d mark vantage - it showed my GTX's speed at 1x - shouldn't that be at 16x?
I know you can change that in the bios...however with that in mind - if I were to change it to x16 forced - then that would disabled my DX - if I'm not mistaken.

EDIT:
1. I thin that pci thing is irrelevant for me as I don't use PCI slot for my GFX
2. Flashed 1504 via asus ai suit 2 and no difference in boot speed.
Will do more testing.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Already done that myself - disabled the things I don't need now.
> Going to force flash (USB) the bios now to 1504 - that's what it came with, if I'm not mistaken. So I'll see if that has any impact on boot time.
> As for the SSD things - yes I've already gone through the windows 7 optimisation guide on OCN - and chose the relevant things I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The autoruns things are fine IMO.
> Really it is time from pressing the ON switch to POST is the slowest part.
> And I THINK (we shall see) that it is down to bios.
> 
> If I'm mistaken however, it could be as you said physical hardware - ie the asus DX.
> But of interested actually for PCI-E link speed.
> When I ran 3d mark vantage - it showed my GTX's speed at 1x - shouldn't that be at 16x?
> I know you can change that in the bios...however with that in mind - if I were to change it to x16 forced - then that would disabled my DX - if I'm not mistaken.


Post time (seeing the sabertooth logo) generally is the longest part because all connected hardware is talking to the board. In the past you could shut off uneeded items like serial ports, parallel ports, firewire, etc. But now, I don't think there is much to shut off. You should be able to disable onboard audio if you haven't already.

Do you have the ASmedia white sata ports enabled? That could delay boot as well. Looking at your soundcard install video, it looks like every sata port is full yet I only see 3 hard drives.

According to what I've read, that 1x 16x thing is just the card adjusting itself. Several people have posted about it in this thread. If you were getting bad performance in games, then I would worry, but I think you are fine. The card downclocks itself and that number changes.

The only other thing I could think of would be putting your sound card in the top slot and removing that fan. That is where my Creative X-Fi card is. Above my graphics card.

I mentioned the physical hardware earlier just because, the more stuff plugged in, ie: usb externals, and so on, the more it takes to process it all. Taking out the card was just a test.

The other part of physical hardware would be not having a raid-ed SSD, that single SSD can only do so much and then again, Win 7 is also limited by it's design.

-Fo


----------



## Dreamxtreme

So happy with my 660Ti's that i decided to get a 3rd. getting a triple monitor setup soon to match them.

Hoping the PCI-E Bandwidth at 8x 8x 4x doesnt effect it much


----------



## simonsez420

Hey there im trying to get my dual monitor set up via the on-board hdmi and display port both at the same time. My asus monitor only has vga, dvi and hdmi outputs. My hdmi port from the mother board is hooked up to my tv for movies i want the display port to work with my monitor. ive tried a passive display port to hdmi and it didnt work i then got an active display port to hdmi adapter and it still wont work im stumped. ive checked all through the bios and can only find the normal onboard video options nothing saying to enable/ disable or to chose what is the primary port to use. I dont get a post screen on the monitor unless its connected to the hdmi. Im really frustrated any help?


----------



## Chillie

Try going into the windows settings for your output devices (control panel). sounds like a somewhat elaborate configuration, so sometimes you need to manually setup the video/audio outputs. Your trying to use you onboard HDMI for a TV output correct with more than one monitors? w/ an adapter???


----------



## Chillie

Who has been overclocking any 600 series nvidia GPU? so far I have had good luck with my 680 w/ this mobo.


----------



## jktmas

Hey guys quick question, how can i controll the fans in Win7?
Edit: also asus AI suite 2 is telling me that my cpu is 100c hotter than realtemp says it is


----------



## simonsez420

chillie, My setup is as follows
i5 cpu
sabertooth z77 mobo
32 gig ram
120 hdd -os
14 tb hdd sata 6's
corsair ax750 psu
sharp 60" tv - movies
asus 24" lcd vs248h - normal use

So i got rid of my 660ti because i don't do any gaming and the mother board has igpu. there are 2 ports one hdmi and one display port. im only getting video through hdmi to either the tv or the monitor whichever i have pluged into the hdmi port but never through the display port. ive tried a regular displayport to hdmi and ive tried an active displayport to hdmi and still nothing. if i just put the tv or monitor into the displayport and power on my pc boots fine but with no on screen display no post screen nothing if i then plug the hdmi in i give video on just the hdmi.. it cant be a windows configuration setting as i dont get any on screen display when i post the system on that display port. and in the intel drive setup i only ever see a single display which is the hdmi.


----------



## Chillie

Ok I believe I had this problem as well (search through my previous posts) Does a red light stay on the mobo blink red (i think its the mem clock light) or flashes differently than normal on the boot? I believe your mobo may be a defect. I wrestled with a similar problem if not the same one. I returned it to the store and got a fresh one.......that fixed the problem. I know that some other people that post here had the same issue as me. Some of them replaced their mobos with a new mobo everything worked great. Let me know if this is not the problem. I may be able to help.


----------



## simonsez420

I just double checked the dp to hdmi and its not actually ative even though that what the guy at the shop said it was it says dp 20 pin male to hdmi v1.3 19 pin female could that be the problem as to the light coming on no sorry no like just the regular ones when it booths then all off except the green mobo light


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> *Bazinga69* wrote...Hey guys quick question, how can i controll the fans in Win7?
> Edit: also asus AI suite 2 is telling me that my cpu is 100c hotter than realtemp says it is


...go to Sabertooth's 'Thermal Radar' screen, click on the fans button at the lower left graphics, now click on any of the fans in the graphics above - then choose 'settings' - actually works great.









...as to your other question, a.) there is a difference between CPU temp and individual core temps, and b.) sometimes (though rarely for me), it really does go haywire, especially with really high overclocks exceeding 5.1 GHz- mine likes to tell me that my motherboard temp is minus 127 C







every once in a while, or my CPU at 0 C (







) - a reboot fixes those things


----------



## YarozeX

Okay, guys I am new here been looking up and down for this answer. I just built my PC and currently am having issues posting with memory in slots a1 and a2. Any ideas what would cause this? Corsair Ven 1600 1.v LP's


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YarozeX*
> 
> Okay, guys I am new here been looking up and down for this answer. I just built my PC and currently am having issues posting with memory in slots a1 and a2. Any ideas what would cause this? Corsair Ven 1600 1.v LP's


If you can get to the bios update it via usb,

Use dual channel slots 1 and 3.

Try xmp in advanced options in bios.

Try using 1 stick at a time to make sure 1 is not faulty

The newer bios has fixed for memory comparability

Hope this helps


----------



## YarozeX

Any ideas where to get the software for the bootable thumb stick? Seems like everyplace doesn't work anymore......


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YarozeX*
> 
> Any ideas where to get the software for the bootable thumb stick? Seems like everyplace doesn't work anymore......


Download and unzip

Drag to usb stick

Use usb 2 port at back of board

Enter bios and flash using the utility tool

If you need me to post screen shots of what to do let me know

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-ASUS-1805.zip


----------



## YarozeX

Getting an error when trying to save old bios. ERROR: BIOS has no flash information available.

Same error when trying to update.

cmd i am using is afudos /i1805.cap correct?


----------



## YarozeX

Okay figued out the bios update, still no changes to any memory put into dimms a1 or a-2


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YarozeX*
> 
> Okay figued out the bios update, still no changes to any memory put into dimms a1 or a-2


Hmmm running out of suggestions perhaps try some different ram.

Download this and see if your ram is supported.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/SABERTOOTH-Z77-Memory-QVL.pdf


----------



## YarozeX

This is what I have except in a low profile edition

CORSAIR CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9(XMP) 16GB ( 4x 4GB ) DS - - 9-9-9-24 1.5 ● ● ●

I tried 1 or 2 sticks of RAM in various configurations and basically any time A1 or A2 are populated, it won't boot.

A1 - Doesn't work
A2 - Doesn't work
A1 & A2 - Doesn't work

B1 - Works
B2 - Works
B1 & B2 - Works

A1 - B1 - Doesn't work
A2 - B1 - Doesn't work
A1 - B2 - Doesn't work
A2 - B2 - Doesn't work


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Have you tried using xmp and are you running the latest bios perhaps even reset the cmos you never know may work.

Possibly one of the sticks are faulty or the motherboard has a faulty ram slot which I have never seen.

Are you sure you are running the latest bios and did you check compatibility.


----------



## YarozeX

Yes, updated CMOS, change XPM to Profile 1 ran both corrected and uncorrected timing. The memory is yes and no on their website, Same part but low profile editions. Updates the BIOS to 1805. Disables both DIMMS 0 and 1 in the bios still no change. Checked for bent pins 4 times..... Going to RMA this one and see if the next one works. If next one does not work looks like I will be going to another board.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Have you tried using xmp and are you running the latest bios perhaps even reset the cmos you never know may work.
> 
> Possibly one of the sticks are faulty or the motherboard has a faulty ram slot which I have never seen.
> 
> Are you sure you are running the latest bios and did you check compatibility.


XMP - and/or board being useless.

I would suggest if you have the latest bios & have ran them in different slots - to RMA or return the sabertooth board.
I used to have something like this on my old p5k premium - wasted too much time and money with asus' so called "specialists".
Do yourself a favour return it.
Either get another board, or get a replacement.


----------



## YarozeX

Just filed my claim with amazon, wonder how long this is going to take.... Oh well still waiting for my fans and H100


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YarozeX*
> 
> Just filed my claim with amazon, wonder how long this is going to take.... Oh well still waiting for my fans and H100


Amazon are extremely good with things like that - you're lucky you are dealing with them.
I would be dealing with SCAN UK if anything goes wrong - and they will cover the RMA for the next 5yrs.


----------



## Jprofess

Good morning forum, I am impressed with all the knowledge in here on the ASUS Z77 board. New to forums so might take time to get adjusted.
Anyway I just built a little computer just to play with I will be sending pictures shortly, Don't have a camera yet, ex wife got everything, lol But this is what I built

Case

Cooler Master --- Stryker
Motherboard

Asus sabertooth Z77
Memory

G-Skill 1866- Had 32 went to 16 one kit had issues.
Video Card

Had evea 680 bought used and it died in 2 days, Now using onboard HDMI-- money issues to replace
Power Supply

Corsair CM- 750 which I was surprised how well it actually is built,
Processor

Intel I5-3570K
Stock Cooler for now tried the the h100 and decided to remove after I had a friend lose his graphic card and mother board due to a leak at a plug. Going to order a cooler master 212 X when they come out.
Everything went together easy and I an using a 60 gb ocz ssd for now with windows 7 ult.
Updated the BIOS to 1805 and tested, all seems great, Proceeding with buying more upgrades.
One big issue I had was the Stryker case lost it I/O panel the next day been waiting for 2 weeks and no reply yet from cooler master about replacement part. They seem to have a chip on their should when I ask for a update, Just asking for a date to look for replacement, Other than that I am happy,

I really like the new bios they came out with. Was flaky when I tried to go from a older version to update, Reloaded went straight to update an works great.
Suggestions for a new video card? Never gamed much but I will now and I do alot of photo's and video's


----------



## ad556

My sabertooth mobo fan is loud and when I turn my pc off it takes a while to stop spinning but my pc runs totally fine though does not bother me but would like to know if anyone else has came across this issue


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jprofess*
> 
> Good morning forum, I am impressed with all the knowledge in here on the ASUS Z77
> I really like the new bios they came out with. Was flaky when I tried to go from a older version to update, Reloaded went straight to update an works great.
> Suggestions for a new video card? Never gamed much but I will now and I do alot of photo's and video's


Hit here! Welcome to OCN








For your GFX - maybe you don't need one?
The in-built HD4000 in the i5 3570k is quite good, for your casual gaming and photo viewing etc.
If you want to be video rendering, then you could get any low-end graphics card.
Say starting from the GTX460 and up - depending on your budget.

My GTX660ti OC PE, is already a bit of an overkill for nowadays games.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> My sabertooth mobo fan is loud and when I turn my pc off it takes a while to stop spinning but my pc runs totally fine though does not bother me but would like to know if anyone else has came across this issue


That fan OVERTIME bro - if you go to the bios, under "monitor" you'll find the fan overtime.
You can disable it if you want.


----------



## BL1969

Needing advice please please please... Here are my specs...

Asus Sabertooth Z77 MLB
Intel i5k Ivy CPU
Corsair 650D Case
Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866 16 GB, 4GB in each slot Memory
Corsair AX750 PSU
Corsair H100i (2 Noctua Fans) CPU Cooler
Corsair SSD
WD HDD's x 3
Rear chsssis fan Noctua
Front chassis fan is stock Corsair one but with a Noctua speed controler cable so it is running low and quiet.
1st Assist fan Fractal Design silent 40mm
2nd Assist fan is stock Corsair one

Question is this...
I am wanting to put in a Noctua CPU cooler in but with the Dominator Platinum memory being quite high, I think there would be an issue. Does anyone know what model of Noctua CPU cooler will fit with my Sabertooth and the Dominator.

As you can maybe tell, I am looking for a quiet PC.

Please help me and my ears if you can.

Barry


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BL1969*
> 
> Needing advice please please please... Here are my specs...
> 
> Question is this...
> I am wanting to put in a Noctua CPU cooler in but with the Dominator Platinum memory being quite high, I think there would be an issue. Does anyone know what model of Noctua CPU cooler will fit with my Sabertooth and the Dominator.
> 
> As you can maybe tell, I am looking for a quiet PC.
> 
> Please help me and my ears if you can.
> 
> Barry


If you are looking for a quiet PC bro - why don't you get yourself a liquid cooler, like the antec 620/920 or corsair h range?
Not only will it not have "fitting problems" (despite the antec being a pain in the backside to fit) - but it will also be quieter than fans blowing constantly.

As for the space with the noctua, I don't THINK you'll have a problem - as the fans won't reach that far to the DIMM slots - I could be mistaken however.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BL1969*
> 
> Needing advice please please please... Here are my specs...
> 
> Asus Sabertooth Z77 MLB
> Intel i5k Ivy CPU
> Corsair 650D Case
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866 16 GB, 4GB in each slot Memory
> Corsair AX750 PSU
> Corsair H100i (2 Noctua Fans) CPU Cooler
> Corsair SSD
> WD HDD's x 3
> Rear chsssis fan Noctua
> Front chassis fan is stock Corsair one but with a Noctua speed controler cable so it is running low and quiet.
> 1st Assist fan Fractal Design silent 40mm
> 2nd Assist fan is stock Corsair one
> 
> Question is this...
> I am wanting to put in a Noctua CPU cooler in but with the Dominator Platinum memory being quite high, I think there would be an issue. Does anyone know what model of Noctua CPU cooler will fit with my Sabertooth and the Dominator.
> 
> As you can maybe tell, I am looking for a quiet PC.
> 
> Please help me and my ears if you can.
> 
> Barry


I have a corsair h100 its great its very quite. When overclocking my 3570K I pretty much never have to worry about my temps!!!!







amazing cooler and Im sure now you can pick one up for under $80. Whats your main concern when it comes to the cooler? sounds? cooling? looks?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BL1969*
> 
> Needing advice please please please... Here are my specs...
> 
> Asus Sabertooth Z77 MLB
> Intel i5k Ivy CPU
> Corsair 650D Case
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866 16 GB, 4GB in each slot Memory
> Corsair AX750 PSU
> Corsair H100i (2 Noctua Fans) CPU Cooler
> Corsair SSD
> WD HDD's x 3
> Rear chsssis fan Noctua
> Front chassis fan is stock Corsair one but with a Noctua speed controler cable so it is running low and quiet.
> 1st Assist fan Fractal Design silent 40mm
> 2nd Assist fan is stock Corsair one
> 
> Question is this...
> I am wanting to put in a Noctua CPU cooler in but with the Dominator Platinum memory being quite high, I think there would be an issue. Does anyone know what model of Noctua CPU cooler will fit with my Sabertooth and the Dominator.
> 
> As you can maybe tell, I am looking for a quiet PC.
> 
> Please help me and my ears if you can.
> 
> Barry


simple and easy providing you can fit the h100i in i would go for that,now this depends if you have got a good h100i as they did have problems with them. a couple of months ago,but they have now brought out a h90 and a h110

but either way you pick i would go water over air: options h80i,h100i,h90,h110 or antec 920:thumb: these coolers are quite easy to fit within 10-15 mins


----------



## BL1969

I have all these parts at the moment, I would say the H100i I have is good, they fixed the issue with a FW update that some people were having regarding noise... thing is, the PC does need to be really quiet and I can still here the pump... it's not super loud... just need it to be like the rest I have fitted... silent.

I really doubt a Noctua CPU cooler is going to fit with my DIMM's but thought I would ask in case anyone on here has used one with this MLB and the DIMM's I have.

I really dont want to be forking out for a new 16GB kit of LP DIMM's to get a Noctua on the CPU though.


----------



## BL1969

Here is a pic of it halfway through building it the other week (not all parts were installed when I took this pic).

Looks a tad different now though.... Just this CPU cooler I want to sort out... I would love a Noctua one!!!! But I really doubt it will fit.


----------



## YarozeX

Sweet my replacement board will be here tomorrow!

Estimated Delivery Date:January 27th


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YarozeX*
> 
> Sweet my replacement board will be here tomorrow!
> 
> Estimated Delivery Date:January 27th


Good news did you try a different set of ram ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Post time (seeing the sabertooth logo) generally is the longest part because all connected hardware is talking to the board. In the past you could shut off uneeded items like serial ports, parallel ports, firewire, etc. But now, I don't think there is much to shut off. You should be able to disable onboard audio if you haven't already.
> 
> Do you have the ASmedia white sata ports enabled? That could delay boot as well. Looking at your soundcard install video, it looks like every sata port is full yet I only see 3 hard drives.
> 
> According to what I've read, that 1x 16x thing is just the card adjusting itself. Several people have posted about it in this thread. If you were getting bad performance in games, then I would worry, but I think you are fine. The card downclocks itself and that number changes.
> 
> The only other thing I could think of would be putting your sound card in the top slot and removing that fan. That is where my Creative X-Fi card is. Above my graphics card.
> 
> I mentioned the physical hardware earlier just because, the more stuff plugged in, ie: usb externals, and so on, the more it takes to process it all. Taking out the card was just a test.
> 
> The other part of physical hardware would be not having a raid-ed SSD, that single SSD can only do so much and then again, Win 7 is also limited by it's design.
> 
> -Fo


Hey Fo!

Another update:
First of all the "click sound" comes from the ASUS DX for sure. I removed it and there was no click sound any more - however boot time wasn't improved.

Now for the tweaks, I did the following:
-Disabled indexing
-Turned Off the Disk Defragmenter Schedule
-Disabled Disk Defragmenter

That's the only ones I wanted to do, after a bit of research.

Boot time hasn't improved, but I'm going to call quits on this one. It has to do with something with a certain driver or something.
Considering I have tried:
-Getting the soundcard out
-Updating all drivers (GFX, ASmedia etc)
-Getting the 2 other HDD's out
-Played around with the BIOS
-Done SSD tweaks (although that would be more on a Windows level rather than boot time)

So overall, I've gained maybe 1-2 seconds (and that's for the POST disabled full screen logo)
Thanks again for the help regardless of the outcome!


----------



## Jasebrooks

Hello.

I have an ASUS Z77 Sabertooth board, but I am having problems with it.
The geeksquad at Bestbuy says I need to buy a new one.

The problem is an internal bay display I have stays powered up when I shutdown my computer.
I looked in the BIOS, but can't seem to find a setting for this.

This is the display.


It is wired here.


If anyone knows how to fix this, I would be very happy.

May the force be with you.


----------



## navit

Does everything else shut down? What bios are you running? Have you tried a different connector?
Stay away from the geek squad at all cost for your own good and protection


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Well..my sabertooth stays on too (green light) and I remember asking here, and others had the same "issue".
Thus, that's probably why the screen isn't going off.

Thus I don't know if it is really a problem with YOUR board, or just the way the Z77's were designed.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well..my sabertooth stays on too (green light) and I remember asking here, and others had the same "issue".
> Thus, that's probably why the screen isn't going off.
> 
> Thus I don't know if it is really a problem with YOUR board, or just the way the Z77's were designed.


Yea the green light is normal, but the display on the front of his rig should shut off I would think.


----------



## Jasebrooks

I don't have anything else wired to the USB connectors, but everything thing else (drives&fans) shuts down. I hooked this display up to another computer and it does go off when the computer is shut down. I am running latest BIOS.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> I don't have anything else wired to the USB connectors, but everything thing else (drives&fans) shuts down. I hooked this display up to another computer and it does go off when the computer is shut down. I am running latest BIOS.


What I was asking was did you or have you tried changing usb conecctors? on you pic you have another open. also have you tried resetting the comos jumper?


----------



## Jasebrooks

I tired the other USB connection, same result. CMOS reset. Display still stays on.

If I close the program that runs the display, it will go off.
SO I guess I will have to do that everytime before I shut down the computer.

I thank you for your help thou, you guys are way better than that geeksquad.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> I tired the other USB connection, same result. CMOS reset. Display still stays on.
> 
> If I close the program that runs the display, it will go off.
> SO I guess I will have to do that everytime before I shut down the computer.
> 
> I thank you for your help thou, you guys are way better than that geeksquad.


Pleasure mate


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> I tired the other USB connection, same result. CMOS reset. Display still stays on.
> 
> If I close the program that runs the display, it will go off.
> SO I guess I will have to do that everytime before I shut down the computer.
> 
> I thank you for your help thou, you guys are way better than that geeksquad.


Is there any options in that program that you can tweak so you don't have to?
Yes as I said, Stay away from the geeksquad for your own good and protection(and of couse that of your wallets too)


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> I tired the other USB connection, same result. CMOS reset. Display still stays on.
> 
> If I close the program that runs the display, it will go off.
> SO I guess I will have to do that everytime before I shut down the computer.
> 
> I thank you for your help thou, you guys are way better than that geeksquad.


1st check your power options in control panal, you might need to experiment with the settings mine is set to balance (recommended) and all other settings to never.also you need to know (well with mine) when the pc is turn off by windows their is still power going to your motherboard anyway.the only other way is to turn power off at mains or somehow cornect your internal display bay by other means,
as to geeksquad at Bestbuy take no notice nothing is wrong with your motherboard as others as said they just want your $$$$$


----------



## mxfreek09

Could it be the USB Charger+ that could be causing the problems. That is supposed to let you charge usb devices even when the pc is powered down. I just went to go check to see if it is possible to disable that but now all of the sudden my monitor wont turn on. Let me get that fixed and I can see if that could be a problem or not.


----------



## zski320

hello all i have a z77 sabertooth. and i have an issue with the usb controller. i cant seem to find the drivers for it....or atleast thats what windows is telling me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zski320*
> 
> hello all i have a z77 sabertooth. and i have an issue with the usb controller. i cant seem to find the drivers for it....or atleast thats what windows is telling me.


ASmedia ones maybe?


----------



## zski320

ok thanks ill look into it


----------



## YarozeX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> I tired the other USB connection, same result. CMOS reset. Display still stays on.
> 
> If I close the program that runs the display, it will go off.
> SO I guess I will have to do that everytime before I shut down the computer.
> 
> I thank you for your help thou, you guys are way better than that geeksquad.


Make a shutdown script for a process kill upon shutdown.


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ASmedia ones maybe?


. That took me a while to work out if its USB 3.0 download the latest asmedia


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> . That took me a while to work out if its USB 3.0 download the latest asmedia


I don't quite understand lol


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't quite understand lol


meant to say it took me a while to work the 3.0 drivers ahah


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha ok


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Afternoon guys ,









I've had a quick google search and also gave this thread a quick hit too, but couldnt seem too find much regarding this little problem of mine ...

I recently updated to 1805 bios, all was well while gradually overclocking my cpu, once i got to 4.7 and benched, used for compiling and gaming etc. i didnt feel the need to push much further until i de-lid next week...BUT....
... i have found that whenever i try to set a multi higher than x47, lets say x48 multi ... save and reboot.... every tool in windows shows the CPU to still be running at 4.7ghz using the x47 multi..... go back into bios and x48 multi is still showing as being set ??









not quite sure whats going on here, have also had a few random experiences when going into the bios. As sometimes it will completely reset ALL options back to their default values giving me the 'EZ' menu on startup etc.
Selecting my current saved OC profile, saving and rebooting seems to work fine, its just a PITA sometimes









Was wondering if many or _any_ of you guys have experienced this with the 1805 bios? [or any firmware version before this?]

any help is greatly appreciated, thanks guys









*EDIT..*. well.. it looks like this problem actually locks me out of changing the multi completely now, until a Cmos reset and all values changed back to my saved values for 4.7 [written and screenshot's







]
i may try to shoot straight for the x48 multi after a Cmos reset, see if the same thing happens


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^ quite a few people have experienced that, and the only way to really make it work, is to re-flash the bios and hope for the best.
Most have reported it at around x43


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^ quite a few people have experienced that, and the only way to really make it work, is to re-flash the bios and hope for the best.
> Most have reported it at around x43


Hiya mate, thanks for the quick reply









dam i thought as much lol , do you know if it seem to be a specific firmware version bug with the new release or a bit more widespread mate ?

Edit ... just installed AI suite to reflash and it looks like TurboV app can change the multi succesfully . But i really dont want to go down the path of using windows software for OC'ing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokeyMcBong*
> 
> Hiya mate, thanks for the quick reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dam i thought as much lol , do you know if it seem to be a specific firmware version bug with the new release or a bit more widespread mate ?
> 
> Edit ... just installed AI suite to reflash and it looks like TurboV app can change the multi succesfully . But i really dont want to go down the path of using windows software for OC'ing


No problem








As for the bug - I really don't know - people report it, and then don't seem to post what happened next (almost like every one does when they have a problem, they never say how they resolved it)
I think it is a widespread issue. No idea about other boards, but I've seen it quite a few times with people and the Sabertooth Z77. Could it be that one has changed it too many times on one FW version? No idea!









As for OC'ing - yeah I'm with you on TurboEV or whatever that useless software is lol - Asus' software, ever since I bought a P5K premium has sucked - literally 6 years on, and they STILL SUCK with software implementation. Typical asus...


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the bug - I really don't know - people report it, and then don't seem to post what happened next (almost like every one does when they have a problem, they never say how they resolved it)
> I think it is a widespread issue. No idea about other boards, but I've seen it quite a few times with people and the Sabertooth Z77. Could it be that one has changed it too many times on one FW version? No idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for OC'ing - yeah I'm with you on TurboEV or whatever that useless software is lol - Asus' software, ever since I bought a P5K premium has sucked - literally 6 years on, and they STILL SUCK with software implementation. Typical asus...


lol







I totally agree mate , used their software only a couple of years ago and i wasn't too impressed with the results







I came from having a few gigabyte boards way back when lol, and oh my, that god awful 'easytune' software ... had endless problems with that







even the most simplistic of task would hard lock my rig at the time









.... just realized i probably use way too many smilies







, Ah well i'm a happy kinda person







lol

Thanks again for you help and info mate ! , +rep for you kind sir!

this is the reason i joined this site..... the community here is great!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokeyMcBong*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally agree mate , used their software only a couple of years ago and i wasn't too impressed with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came from having a few gigabyte boards way back when lol, and oh my, that god awful 'easytune' software ... had endless problems with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> even the most simplistic of task would hard lock my rig at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... just realized i probably use way too many smilies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Ah well i'm a happy kinda person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Thanks again for you help and info mate ! , +rep for you kind sir!
> this is the reason i joined this site..... the community here is great!


My pleasure mate - sorry I couldn't help - but try searching this thread maybe someone posted a response. All I can remember it was BIOS flash related.
As for software - I got so pissed off with all the crap that AI Suite installed, that I re-installed win7 all together.
As for smileys - they're always good to use


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My pleasure mate - sorry I couldn't help - but try searching this thread maybe someone posted a response. All I can remember it was BIOS flash related.
> As for software - I got so pissed off with all the crap that AI Suite installed, that I re-installed win7 all together.
> As for smileys - they're always good to use


you've been more than helpful mate







just knowing that others have experienced this problem is enough to keep me going









good to know that smilies are accepted here







, there are alot of smilie nazi's on the interwebz nowadays, dam party poopers! lol

OS re-install is definatly the way to go mate, at least the app has no way of leaving its dirty remnants hidden in the system that way








i mean how many services does one app need to have constantly polling data? lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokeyMcBong*
> 
> you've been more than helpful mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just knowing that others have experienced this problem is enough to keep me going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good to know that smilies are accepted here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , there are alot of smilie nazi's on the interwebz nowadays, dam party poopers! lol
> 
> OS re-install is definatly the way to go mate, at least the app has no way of leaving its dirty remnants hidden in the system that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i mean how many services does one app need to have constantly polling data? lol


haha yeah!
Man those services...because of them my PC boot time used to be around 4mins (after the win logo had gone) - simply because the asus fan controller service, and another stupid service were failing to start - both of which came from that ai suite 2 software.
Now to upgrade the BIOS - the ONLY thing I do, is install the AI suite 2 (for bios flash) and straight away uninstall it lol.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokeyMcBong*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My pleasure mate - sorry I couldn't help - but try searching this thread maybe someone posted a response. All I can remember it was BIOS flash related.
> As for software - I got so pissed off with all the crap that AI Suite installed, that I re-installed win7 all together.
> As for smileys - they're always good to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you've been more than helpful mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just knowing that others have experienced this problem is enough to keep me going
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good to know that smilies are accepted here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , there are alot of smilie nazi's on the interwebz nowadays, dam party poopers! lol
> 
> OS re-install is definatly the way to go mate, at least the app has no way of leaving its dirty remnants hidden in the system that way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i mean how many services does one app need to have constantly polling data? lol
Click to expand...

had this problem a few weeks ago before my board packed up on us (psu power surge),no need to reinstall os just jump the cmos as the manual book say's and then do reflash of bios.this worked for me as i tried to go 4.6-4.7 but i was ok on 4.5:thumb:


----------



## SmokeyMcBong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha yeah!
> Man those services...because of them my PC boot time used to be around 4mins (after the win logo had gone) - simply because the asus fan controller service, and another stupid service were failing to start - both of which came from that ai suite 2 software.
> Now to upgrade the BIOS - the ONLY thing I do, is install the AI suite 2 (for bios flash) and straight away uninstall it lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> had this problem a few weeks ago before my board packed up on us (psu power surge),no need to re install os just jump the cmos as the manual book say's and then do re flash of bios.this worked for me as i tried to go 4.6-4.7 but i was ok on 4.5:thumb:


Thanks for the response's guys, i re-did my screenshots of the bios at my rock-stable 4.7ghz @ 1.304v settings and downloaded a modded sabertooth z77 bios from 'garikfox's' modded bios thread [again







,as i did the same thing when i was running my fx 8120 using the Asus Sabertooth 990fx just a few weeks ago]

This time i renamed the bios, slapped it on a fat32 USB pen and flashed via the 'USB flashback tool' and all seems well.... no random bios reset's, not stuck/limited to certain multi's etc









My only problem now is ...... i am in now way near stable at 4.8 !







lol,.
quickly tried a voltage scale up to 1.360v so far and both IBT throws me errors and an Android Source Compile throws me segmentation compiler errors left right and center, also a few of the menacing WHEA-Logger events are re-appearing.

also noticed my max IBT/LinX temps at 4.7 @ 1.304v are around 83c-85c , but at 4.8 using 1.360v max temp was around 96c ! SO ..........
..I will certainly be de-lidding in the next few days, which brings me on to the next thing ...

@ 'Totally Dubbed' - loved the nerf gun in your pentium de-lid attempt, made me chuckle mate
















Thanks again for the assist's guy's!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokeyMcBong*
> 
> Thanks for the response's guys, i re-did my screenshots of the bios at my rock-stable 4.7ghz @ 1.304v settings and downloaded a modded sabertooth z77 bios from 'garikfox's' modded bios thread [again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,as i did the same thing when i was running my fx 8120 using the Asus Sabertooth 990fx just a few weeks ago]
> 
> This time i renamed the bios, slapped it on a fat32 USB pen and flashed via the 'USB flashback tool' and all seems well.... no random bios reset's, not stuck/limited to certain multi's etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My only problem now is ...... i am in now way near stable at 4.8 !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol,.
> quickly tried a voltage scale up to 1.360v so far and both IBT throws me errors and an Android Source Compile throws me segmentation compiler errors left right and center, also a few of the menacing WHEA-Logger events are re-appearing.
> 
> also noticed my max IBT/LinX temps at 4.7 @ 1.304v are around 83c-85c , but at 4.8 using 1.360v max temp was around 96c ! SO ..........
> ..I will certainly be de-lidding in the next few days, which brings me on to the next thing ...
> 
> @ 'Totally Dubbed' - loved the nerf gun in your pentium de-lid attempt, made me chuckle mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the assist's guy's!


haha pleasure mate!
That video is going viral 0.0!


----------



## flo-oc

Could you tell me if the thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E is compatible with the sabertooth z77 ?? Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flo-oc*
> 
> Could you tell me if the thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E is compatible with the sabertooth z77 ?? Thanks


Yes it should be - but the size of it...that's something else (over the RAM)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey Fo!
> 
> Another update:
> First of all the "click sound" comes from the ASUS DX for sure. I removed it and there was no click sound any more - however boot time wasn't improved.
> 
> Now for the tweaks, I did the following:
> -Disabled indexing
> -Turned Off the Disk Defragmenter Schedule
> -Disabled Disk Defragmenter
> 
> That's the only ones I wanted to do, after a bit of research.
> 
> Boot time hasn't improved, but I'm going to call quits on this one. It has to do with something with a certain driver or something.
> Considering I have tried:
> -Getting the soundcard out
> -Updating all drivers (GFX, ASmedia etc)
> -Getting the 2 other HDD's out
> -Played around with the BIOS
> -Done SSD tweaks (although that would be more on a Windows level rather than boot time)
> 
> So overall, I've gained maybe 1-2 seconds (and that's for the POST disabled full screen logo)
> Thanks again for the help regardless of the outcome!


Yeah, I think that's best. I don't think you can do more than what I've suggested. Disabling those Asmedia Sata ports, uninstalling ESET, raid ssds, win8)
Your boot is still extremely fast.

I'm glad you disabled those, those are bad news for your SSD. Did you also disable prefetching?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have an ASUS Z77 Sabertooth board, but I am having problems with it.
> The geeksquad at Bestbuy says I need to buy a new one.
> 
> The problem is an internal bay display I have stays powered up when I shutdown my computer.
> I looked in the BIOS, but can't seem to find a setting for this.
> 
> This is the display.
> 
> It is wired here.
> 
> If anyone knows how to fix this, I would be very happy.
> 
> May the force be with you.


This may also be a usb bios setting. I had issues with my USB 3 external being detected on startup and I was able to resolve this. I'll check this later, unless you can get me some bios screenshots within a few hours.

Also, in regards to Geek Squad.

As an ex-member who worked there during college, I can say that they are not all bad. You are correct, most of them aren't tech savvy and they do charge an arm and a leg for service. Some people (customers) don't have any other options though. There isn't always that kid down the street, or a microcenter nearby. I am, however, glad to be gone and not surprised they couldn't help you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

No I kept prefetching after the things I read about it (I think it was that one)


----------



## Earth Dog

All one needs to do to setup an SSD is, after installing chipset and grpahics drivers, reboot and run WEI. It will disable/enable what NEEDS to be on an SSD.

Super/prefetch can be left enabled with ZERO harm to an SSD.


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi all
I am trying to install Windows 8 in UEFI Mode
I made a boot able ubs stick

But I am stuck on this part On the boot tab, under UEFI/Legacy boot set it to "Disable Legacy"


----------



## MotherFo

Jasebrooks - This is the setting I was referring to.

xHCI mode. Disabled worked for me, but you can try one after the other. See what works for you.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi all
> I am trying to install Windows 8 in UEFI Mode
> I made a boot able ubs stick
> 
> But I am stuck on this part On the boot tab, under UEFI/Legacy boot set it to "Disable Legacy"


No need to change that. I believe that option with that setting means it support both UEFI & legacy boot. What you need to do is when boot up, press F8 to bring up list of bootable drives. To boot in UEFI mode, select the drive that has "UEFI" (without quote) in the name.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> No need to change that. I believe that option with that setting means it support both UEFI & legacy boot. What you need to do is when boot up, press F8 to bring up list of bootable drives. To boot in UEFI mode, select the drive that has "UEFI" (without quote) in the name.


This is what I was told

Yes. No legacy at all to make it work right. Even on the network, storage, and PCI/PCIe that is under it.

I know the frist one I set to uefi only but the ones under it I don't know what option to set them on


----------



## kizwan

The rest are option rom settings. The default settings just told BIOS to use legacy rom. If you don't know what they do, you can leave them at default. If you have graphic card with UEFI firmware, you can set "PCIe/PCI Expansion Devices" to UEFI option rom. Then you can use UEFI driver in Windows 8. If you don't know any of this, most likely your graphic card doesn't have UEFI firmware.

Out-of-box, you should be able to boot Windows 8 in UEFI mode without any tweak in BIOS. For UEFI boot, BIOS will look for */EFI/BOOT/BOOTX64.efi* or */EFI/Microsoft/BOOT/bootmgfw.efi* file. If your prepared usb stick has this file, you should be able to boot in UEFI mode.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Is there a compilation of which air CPU coolers fit this board somewhere? I'm interested in whether Zalman's CNPS12x will fit:



http://www.zalman.com/global/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=449

And if it will fit, will it block anything (like RAM slots or the closest PCI-E lane).


----------



## billythekid2012

I just did the uefi install of windows

Now in the boot menu for me corsair ssd there uefi corsair and just corsar
do I use the uefi corsair


----------



## kizwan

UEFI corsair. Windows should create "Windows Boot Manager" automatically for you which means you don't need to select the boot drives manually.


----------



## chillidog

ElevenEleven that cooler will fit with no problem but your other problem will lie with what ram you using ie high profile or low profile ram sticks?
if you using your sig ram G.Skill Ripjaws X 16GB you might have a problem i think the height on these ram is 44mm, but you don't say what ram you going to use anyway?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Just making some plans, that's all. If the Ripjaws are going to interfere, I'd go with Samsung RAM for sure. Thank you.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> UEFI corsair. Windows should create "Windows Boot Manager" automatically for you which means you don't need to select the boot drives manually.


I just don't get it still takes 40 second for windows 8 to boot there is nothing in start up I am sure I got the bios set up right

it only take like 2 seconds from the bios to the windows logo and then it like it search the Icon keep turning and turning

I have all the update drivers I watch you tube vid and some pc put in 6 second I have not seen one the took as long as mine

mom on windows 7 and using a hard drive and is full of crap and it boots faster

can my ssd be bad

and is my hardware plugged in to the right sata ports


----------



## kizwan

Did you try the SATA 3 port #2? Try change the SATA cable? Up to date firmware? Also did you try with the other drives disconnected?

You can try trace where the problem is using a guide available here "Trace why Windows 8 boots, shutsdown or hibernate slowly":-
http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w8itproperf/thread/a1d99156-f10f-4a67-bb9c-f5bc988d0883/

EDIT:-
Direct link: http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/158252-trace-why-windows-8-boots-shutsdown-or-hibernate-slowly/


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Check what I did, and was instructed to do regarding my boot time, via event viewer.
Very helpful in knowing what's causing the slowness


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you try the SATA 3 port #2? Try change the SATA cable? Up to date firmware? Also did you try with the other drives disconnected?
> 
> You can try trace where the problem is using a guide available here "Trace why Windows 8 boots, shutsdown or hibernate slowly":-
> http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w8itproperf/thread/a1d99156-f10f-4a67-bb9c-f5bc988d0883/
> 
> EDIT:-
> Direct link: http://www.msfn.org/board/topic/158252-trace-why-windows-8-boots-shutsdown-or-hibernate-slowly/


I think all the firmware is up to date for the ME in the bios its 8.1.0.1248
for the corsair 120gig it on firmware 5.03

{Did you try the SATA 3 port #2} what ports did you mean the white or gray ones near the bottom of the board

I do have the ssd and 2tb drive plugged in to the Intel ports right.

Just ran a ssd bench not to sure if this is good
this is the ssd I have http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX34785



Here is a list of drivers after the os install

INF_allOS_9.3.0.1026_PV

MEI_1.5M_Win8_8.1.2.1318

f6flpy-x64

Asmedia_usb3_1.16.2.0(www.station-drivers.com)

asmedia_sata3g_1.3.8.0-allos(www.station-drivers.com)

land driver 18_0 _CD


----------



## Jasebrooks

This solved the problem with my USB device staying on after shutdown. Thank you!


----------



## Jasebrooks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Jasebrooks - This is the setting I was referring to.
> 
> xHCI mode. Disabled worked for me, but you can try one after the other. See what works for you.


*This worked for me. I am very happy now.*


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> {Did you try the SATA 3 port #2} what ports did you mean the white or gray ones near the bottom of the board


The Intel Sata 3 ports. Did you try switch to port #2? Did you noticed whether it stalling (no drive activity for a period) while booting? Did you use SATA 3 cable came with motherboard?

Quick google show there are quite a handful of people also getting slow boot problem with Corsair Force 3 drives.

I don't have Windows 8 to help you. You might want to check in Event Viewe >> "Applications and Services Logs" >> "Diagnostics-Performance" >> Operational. Check for "Boot Performance Monitoring". It should tell you if driver(s)/service(s) causing slow boot.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> *This worked for me. I am very happy now.*


Geek Squad didn't let you down after all.
















(ps, +Rep button














)


----------



## silkzim

Someone already tried to change the standby led of the motherboard ? Is it possible ? The green led just does not match my other leds...xD


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> I think all the firmware is up to date for the ME in the bios its 8.1.0.1248
> for the corsair 120gig it on firmware 5.03
> 
> {Did you try the SATA 3 port #2} what ports did you mean the white or gray ones near the bottom of the board
> 
> I do have the ssd and 2tb drive plugged in to the Intel ports right.
> 
> Just ran a ssd bench not to sure if this is good
> this is the ssd I have http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX34785
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a list of drivers after the os install
> 
> INF_allOS_9.3.0.1026_PV
> 
> MEI_1.5M_Win8_8.1.2.1318
> 
> f6flpy-x64
> 
> Asmedia_usb3_1.16.2.0(www.station-drivers.com)
> 
> asmedia_sata3g_1.3.8.0-allos(www.station-drivers.com)
> 
> land driver 18_0 _CD


OMG Dude , RTFM !
its in the manual, and shows you which ones are sata 3 and sata6


----------



## kizwan

To prevent any confusion, there are SATA 2 (3 Gbit/s) & SATA 3 (6 Gbit/s). The manual will called them SATA 3Gb/s & SATA 6Gb/s respectively.

I'm sure billythekid2012 know which ports are SATA 3, SATA 2 & Asmedia SATA 3 ports.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> {Did you try the SATA 3 port #2} what ports did you mean the *white* or *gray* ones near the bottom of the board


----------



## Shalston

Hi,

First post for me but I think I've read most of the other posts!

I am the proud owner of a Sabertooth Z77, with a 3770K. Not built many machines before so excuse my ignorance. I have put in a Corsair H60i cooler and have also purchased 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans which are set-up in a push/pull on the radiator. Where do I plug all the fans/pump in?

I currently have the H60 pump connected to CPU_Fan (runs at a steady 4550rpm) and the 2 NF-F12 fans connected to Chassis Fan 2 and 3. I've not played with the fan speeds much in Thermal Radar but I can see that Chassis Fan 2 and 3 are monitoring the CPU Temp (and I have them on the Standard Profile). Are they ok to be set up like that? CPU temp seems to hover around the mid 30's C.

Initially I had the 2 fans plugged in the CPU_OPT with a splitter but they only ran at about 500 rpm and I couldn't find a way to adjust CPU_OPT in TR...

Also, should I do anything with the CPU_FAN setting in TR? It's running the pump so I guess not.

Thanks in advanced!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Did H60i not come with any fan cables? My H100i came with a split cable to plug two fans into and plug the joined end into the pump. The pump itself plugs into the CPU header. Personally, I prefer my fans to go through a fan controller instead of H100i, but it's possible either way.

You should be able to control the pump and anything plugged into It with Corsair Link software, unless H60i doesn't have CL integrated.


----------



## Shalston

The H60i doesn't have that set-up, like the H100. Fan and Pump are plugged directly into the MB. Looked at Corsair Link, it apparently sort of works with the H60 but its a bit overkill for me.


----------



## Rakin

Not sure if it has been posted here already or not but,
the new 1805 BIOS is out.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Not sure if it has been posted here already or not but,
> the new 1808 BIOS is out.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36


1805 only shows for me. I've cleared my browser cache a few times too...


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> 1805 only shows for me. I've cleared my browser cache a few times too...


Its 1805, sorry for the typo.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> I just don't get it still takes 40 second for windows 8 to boot there is nothing in start up I am sure I got the bios set up right
> 
> it only take like 2 seconds from the bios to the windows logo and then it like it search the Icon keep turning and turning
> 
> I have all the update drivers I watch you tube vid and some pc put in 6 second I have not seen one the took as long as mine
> 
> mom on windows 7 and using a hard drive and is full of crap and it boots faster
> 
> can my ssd be bad
> 
> and is my hardware plugged in to the right sata port


Try this: Did you try turning Fast Startup off, restart, then turn it back on again.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Not sure if it has been posted here already or not but,
> the new 1805 BIOS is out.
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36


Yup - most of us are on it, for a few weeks


----------



## Rakin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yup - most of us are on it, for a few weeks


Any notable benefits over 1708?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakin*
> 
> Any notable benefits over 1708?


Some reported better OC's
Some reported instability and inaccurate multiplier readings

So it really depends on your motherboard and how much asus loves/hates you lol


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Some reported better OC's
> Some reported instability and inaccurate multiplier readings
> 
> So it really depends on your motherboard and how much asus loves/hates you lol


The question remains....has Dubbed seen any benefits over 1504 that Fo is still sitting pretty with


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> The question remains....has Dubbed seen any benefits over 1504 that Fo is still sitting pretty with


Nop! haha
Even if I did, I probably wouldn't notice it.


----------



## ad556

+1 Rep for all Sabertooth owners I love mine


----------



## RoadRashed

New Sabertooth owner here. Haven't built a PC in around 5 years...but pulled the trigger this week. Just finished installing everything and to my complete shock and surprise, everything seems to be working perfectly (a first for me...I usually screw something up or end up with at least one bad part.







).

Went with:
Sabertooth Z77
CM Storm Trooper case
i7 3770K with Hyper 212 EVO and AS5
MSI Twin Frozr HD 7850
Thermaltake Black Widow 850w
OCZ Vertex 4 128GB SSD

Going to run stock speeds for a few days, then see if I can figure out how to overclock something again.

Current idle temps seem pretty good from what I've read. I didn't spend as much time as I usually did in the past...I just started buying crap. Don't even know what to shoot for as far as overclocking goes...but that's why I came here. Off to do some reading.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoadRashed*
> 
> New Sabertooth owner here. Haven't built a PC in around 5 years...but pulled the trigger this week. Just finished installing everything and to my complete shock and surprise, everything seems to be working perfectly (a first for me...I usually screw something up or end up with at least one bad part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> Went with:
> Sabertooth Z77
> CM Storm Trooper case
> i7 3770K with Hyper 212 EVO and AS5
> )


Check my sig for my OC - and the thread linked to it for an OC guide.
That's all you'll need







!

Congratz on the purchase and the lovely build


----------



## Garming

Would I be crazy to spray paint my thermal armor white? Going for a black/white color scheme. Still deciding on an accent color.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Would I be crazy to spray paint my thermal armor white? Going for a black/white color scheme. Still deciding on an accent color.


If you removed it - no not really.
Just make sure it can cope with 127c heat LOL


----------



## Garming

Wait, C or F hahah. Of course I am removing it first. I just wonder if it would look good. Or should I just wrap it with carbon fiber vinyl


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Wait, C or F hahah. Of course I am removing it first. I just wonder if it would look good. Or should I just wrap it with carbon fiber vinyl


Up to you.
And C - that's ASUS' ai suite 2 screwing up - I thought you would have gotten it


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Wait, C or F hahah. Of course I am removing it first. I just wonder if it would look good. Or should I just wrap it with carbon fiber vinyl


Like this?


----------



## Garming

Is that yours?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> 
> 
> Is that yours?


Nope!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Wait, C or F hahah. Of course I am removing it first. I just wonder if it would look good. Or should I just wrap it with carbon fiber vinyl
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Garming
> 
> Would I be crazy to spray paint my thermal armor white? Going for a black/white color scheme. Still deciding on an accent color.
> 
> If you removed it - no not really.
> Just make sure it can cope with 127c heat LOL
> 
> should not be a problem as you would air circulation in the case and you can get some good spray paint from any model shops that deal in remote control car etc, these paints are heat resistant and comes in all different colours
> going by the picture he's done a good job and i can see this catching on. only down side is that it i would i think void any warranty. i can see myself doing this very soon
> 
> Like this?
Click to expand...


----------



## silkzim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silkzim*
> 
> Someone already tried to change the standby led of the motherboard ? Is it possible ? The green led just does not match my other leds...xD


??

WOW, beautiful white paint in the armor, in a white finish case this thing will look amazing.


----------



## hAlex

I am a new builder:
Sabertooth Z77 BIOS 1708
I5-3570K
G.Skill Trident X 16G DDR3 2400
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2
Asus BD BW-12B1ST
Win 7 Pro

Everything worked well for a day. The next day I got failure to POST with four beep, the screen is black. Replaced memory. Still get failure to POST (4 beeps). Updated BIOS to 1708. After I hear the 4 beeps (and nothing on the screen), I press F1 and get the Asus UEFI BIOS Utility.
It recognize both my SSD and the DVD. From the boot menu I can now boot to Windows 7 and work. However, I cannot boot to Windows 7 unless I repeat the above and press F1 and then go to the boot menu.
Disconnected the SSD, and tried to boot to the DVD with Win 7 installation disk. Same as before - I get four beeps and I have to go through the BIOS boot Menu.
So my system will only boot to the bios utility (after I press F1) and from there I have to use the BIOS boot menu.

I tried to clear the RTC RAM jumper couple of time with no different boot results.
I checked my BIOS setting against another very similar system using the same exact components. Mine has the exact same settings.
I updated the Crucial SSD firmware to the latest 040H.

Please help.


----------



## Jakusonfire

This sounds like a default boot drive problem. If you installed windows to your SSD with another hard drive connected to the system (like a storage hard disk or something) then windows sometimes puts files and small partitions where they shouldn't be.
Check the default boot drive is your SSD. If it is then you may need to re-install windows with no other drives attached.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Like this?


That is the best part of owning a Sabertooth I think ... they just look so much better than an ordinary board and even better when customised.
Plus the armour has been a blessing for me with watercooling, protecting the board.
I seriously doubt I will ever be able to buy a naked motherboard again.


----------



## jktmas

I feel like the ram slots start to clash badly with white


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I feel like the ram slots start to clash badly with white


Use the black covers on the brown ones? I didn't like the brown and black so I slapped thew black covers (or paint them to match) into the brown slots and voila, instant matching.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Had to clear cmos yesterday...was forced to use the jumper and that didn't work either...poor performance from Asus.


----------



## Rayleyne

So i had this unique problem with my sabertooth one day i turned it on and my gpu's had 1 pcie 3.0 x1 lane for Gpu 1 and 2 lanes 3.0 for gpu 2 (I discovered this after lagging horribly in games) And i rebooted my machine to go into the bios, Flicked both to pcie 2.0 thinking it was just a glitch rebooted again and now... it turns on for 4 seconds then dies nothing thats it on 1 2 3 4 off


----------



## KattzPC

Hey all, I'm new to the board, so sry if i'm doing this wrong.

I got myself the Sabertooth z77 and I got the Intel Core i7-3770K Processor.

My question is. Memory wise.which is the best choice?
This is what I'm looking for in my memory.
32 gigs (4x8gb)
Performance
Overclock ability
Water Cooling

This is a new build that I am building over a period of time, and Memory is next up on the list.. The QVL only has a couple listed.

Tried using the search feature, but that got lengthy and distracting (adhd). May I add on that, that some of ya got some sweet bomb systems.

Thx. in advance.


----------



## hAlex

Thanks Jakusonfire,
I will re-install Win 7 64 as advised.
I think I mentioned that my DVD would not boot either, even when it is the only drive connected. Is this always the case with DVD?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KattzPC*
> 
> Hey all, I'm new to the board, so sry if i'm doing this wrong.
> 
> I got myself the Sabertooth z77 and I got the Intel Core i7-3770K Processor.
> 
> My question is. Memory wise.which is the best choice?
> This is what I'm looking for in my memory.
> 32 gigs (4x8gb)
> Performance
> Overclock ability
> Water Cooling
> 
> This is a new build that I am building over a period of time, and Memory is next up on the list.. The QVL only has a couple listed.
> 
> Tried using the search feature, but that got lengthy and distracting (adhd). May I add on that, that some of ya got some sweet bomb systems.
> 
> Thx. in advance.


Water cooling RAM is silly and only adds unnecessary restriction to your loop. If money is no issue, Corsair Dominator Platinum GT sticks, as fast as you can get at the 1.5V rating. If you want something nearly as good as the Dom Plat GT, the Samsung 30nm RAM is almost the same. For 4x8gb, the Samsung will probably be $100 cheaper. That said, the more RAM, the harder it will be to overclock both it and your processor. How about starting with 2x 8GB sticks? Why do you need 32? TBH, any rig that actually _needs_ 32gb of RAM would be better served with a Tesla GPU and socket 2011 since it would be used for compute-heavy tasks.

Overclocking RAM can also be tricky. So if you want the fastest with the best support, Corsair is your champion.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^ first of all why do you need 32GB?
And are you running win7 pro/ultimate or win8? If you are running home edition...then you are limited in GB's used.

As for which ram:
G skillz, Corsair and samsung are the ones I would suggest.

Realistically - I would suggest:
1. 16GB ram - 2x 8GB -> two slots running on dual channel is better than 4, especially for OC'ing it - but OC'ing ram is utterly pointless...unless you plan on running benchmars 24/7
2. 1600mhz-1866mhz -> you won't notice any realistic difference above that
3. 1.5v rated voltage -> gives you headroom to 1.65v
4. CL8 or 9 -> below this becomes too highly priced, and more so you again won't notice a difference

Anything other than that is a little silly....unless you plan on running benchmarks
I got Vengeance 1600mhz 4x4GB 1.5v @CL9

I wish I had gone for the dominator range, and only 8GB of it. I don't use more than 4GB, unless I'm benching or prime95'ing


----------



## KattzPC

Thx for responce.

I was thinking the Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M2A1866C9 also.seems that it would be perfect. and they can be LED color customized to my color scheme.
I wanna go 32gb, for simplicity of buying all 4 matching sticks at the same time, and max'n out the board.
I was thinking water cooling compatible ram more for self training purposes. As I don't have any immediate plans to overclock, but I also don't wanna be restricted when i decide to venture into overclocking memory. was thinking of a small independent watercooling system down the road. something that would look visually kool for kooling the memory, and still serve a purpose. Thinking Open Case Mod or something, once i find the right open style case.


----------



## KattzPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^ first of all why do you need 32GB?
> And are you running win7 pro/ultimate or win8? If you are running home edition...then you are limited in GB's used.


I run Win 7 Ultimate, staying away from Win8 for the time being, as Win7 is better for gaming.

Also another reason for the memory is because I don't wanna build this PC for just todays gaming needs, I wanna hit on a few things needed for tomorrows gaming needs. and I also plan on doing video recording when play'n games max'd to the max


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KattzPC*
> 
> Thx for responce.
> 
> I was thinking the Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M2A1866C9 also.seems that it would be perfect. and they can be LED color customized to my color scheme.
> I wanna go 32gb, for simplicity of buying all 4 matching sticks at the same time, and max'n out the board.
> I was thinking water cooling compatible ram more for self training purposes. As I don't have any immediate plans to overclock, but I also don't wanna be restricted when i decide to venture into overclocking memory. was thinking of a small independent watercooling system down the road. something that would look visually kool for kooling the memory, and still serve a purpose. Thinking Open Case Mod or something, once i find the right open style case.


Ok several things:
1. That's pretty much exactly the ram I was thinking of buying back when I got my vengeance. I IN FACT bought the dominator, then cancelled my order before it was processed and got the vengeance -> wish I never did that.

2. As I said, I use 4GB let alone 8, let alone 16GB i got. 32GB is WAY TOO MUCH - "maxing out the board" you might as well go for 197gb for windows 7 pro...loool -> anything above 8gb or even 16gb is completely pointless (unless used specifically for a certain purpose) - as for "building this pc for not now but after - you can not only but the ram at a later stage, but more so I can never see the RAM being used. It wasn't used in WinXP, hasn't been used in win 7 and not in win8 -> I'm speaking OS AND applications/games here.Again, if you are benching or something similar, then that's a different story. I can't stress how much I wish I had gotten the dominator over the vengeance. Heck if you are up for a trade - let me know, I would gladly run 8GB of dominator instead of 16GB vengeance.
EDIT: Not trying to be funny but I just posted my RAM for sale on the OCN marketplace. I'm not trying to advertise here or anything - just stating my opinion









3. OC'ing ram, as I said, isn't going to give you a *realistic* performance upgrade, unlike the CPU/GPU. More so watercooling ram is WELL OTT. I would highly suggest leaving the ram cool itself via some case airflow - watercooling you GPU and CPU, again completely different story.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KattzPC*
> 
> Thx for responce.
> 
> I was thinking the Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M2A1866C9 also.seems that it would be perfect. and they can be LED color customized to my color scheme.
> I wanna go 32gb, for simplicity of buying all 4 matching sticks at the same time, and max'n out the board.
> I was thinking water cooling compatible ram more for self training purposes. As I don't have any immediate plans to overclock, but I also don't wanna be restricted when i decide to venture into overclocking memory. was thinking of a small independent watercooling system down the road. something that would look visually kool for kooling the memory, and still serve a purpose. Thinking Open Case Mod or something, once i find the right open style case.


Just a heads up, but nice 1.5V RAM doesn't generate enough heat to need water cooling. By the time you're pumping the volts to need active cooling on your RAM you've already gone past the capabilities of the memory controller. RAM running 1.5V 2133MHz CL9 is barely warm to the touch. With nice Corsair or Samsung sticks, you actually risk heating the memory with the pump's heat.

Also the definition if noticeable speed increases is very flexible according to application. For gaming, 1866 is about the max for costerformance. But for video/audio editing, transcoding, large brush/many layer use in Pshop, the speed difference above 1866 is quite noticeable. If you aren't doing the above tasks regularly though, even 1600MHZ on IB will run very well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Also the definition if noticeable speed increases is very flexible according to application. For gaming, 1866 is about the max for costerformance. But for video/audio editing, transcoding, large brush/many layer use in Pshop, the speed difference above 1866 is quite noticeable. If you aren't doing the above tasks regularly though, even 1600MHZ on IB will run very well.


To be honest, when you are speaking of the performance increase....we are talking maybe a 1-5minute difference in rendering.
I render videos almost every week.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> To be honest, when you are speaking of the performance increase....we are talking maybe a *1-5minute difference in rendering.*
> I render videos almost every week.


Worth it. Worth it especially with more regular rendering. Where it really shines though is in heavy layering in Photoshop. Double the gains when working in adobe raw. I started with 1600MHz and it didn't cut it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Worth it. Worth it especially with more regular rendering. Where it really shines though is in heavy layering in Photoshop. Double the gains when working in adobe raw. I started with 1600MHz and it didn't cut it.


Well that's a different story I guess.
For my rendering - that really isn't worth it lol.
If anything my CPU OC is what does the difference.


----------



## KattzPC

Awesome guys, thx for the feedback 8>)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Worth it. Worth it especially with more regular rendering. Where it really shines though is in heavy layering in Photoshop. Double the gains when working in adobe raw. I started with 1600MHz and it didn't cut it.


No offense, but do you have any benchmarks or source articles that back up this sort of claim?

According to Anandtech, speed and latencies rarely make a big difference in anything other than synthetic benchmarks.

http://forums.adobe.com/message/4426562 some more tests

I feel like a Quadro rendering card would be a better investment for all the rendering work since that is what they are designed for.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> No offense, but do you have any benchmarks or source articles that back up this sort of claim?
> 
> According to Anandtech, speed and latencies rarely make a big difference in anything other than synthetic benchmarks.
> 
> http://forums.adobe.com/message/4426562 some more tests
> 
> I feel like a Quadro rendering card would be a better investment for all the rendering work since that is what they are designed for.


Strap down ram to 1600Mhz, use a 3500px wide brush in photoshop on a 5kx8k canvas with 6 adjustment layers + DNG base. Then do the same at 2133 and see for yourself. Me? I am far too lazy to go out of my way and do that.







Adobe products have always been rough on the memory. Like I said before, ram speed means almost nothing above 1600mhz in games. Teslas are best at GPU computing. For rendering, that's Quadro territory. Sure you can render and generate toolpaths on a tesla, but it's kind of a waste,

ETA: Where the heck did I get Tesla from? Idk. The CAD computer I use in the shop has a Q5000 and it's pretty nice.


----------



## CheWyn

anyone have sabertooth themes for window7. I want to chage icon start win 7 to icon sabertooth but i can't find any icon


----------



## AzJazz

Hi! I'm glad to join the club!

I just finished my 8 hour build of my Z77 Sabertooth + 3770K + 16GB G.Skill 2133 RAM.

I set the RAM to run off the BIOS XMP settings (2133 DRAM Speed, 11-11-11-30, 1.60 DRAM Volts). I didn't modify any other RAM settings.

'm running Memtest86+ right now, with no errors so far ... but ...

Before I had Memtest86+ running, I accidentally booted into my Win7x64 (SP1) SSD drive. Win7x64 had a 0x7B BSOD before Windows finished booting.

Should I be setting my RAM speeds differently than using the BIOS XMP configuration?

Or, is there anything else that might have caused my Win7x64 STOP 0x7B?

(Oh, and one more thing: When I booted off a standard SATA HD instead of my SATA SSD drive, I was able to boot up OK in an earlier version of my PC setup)

Thanks,

AzJazz


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Hi! I'm glad to join the club!
> 
> I just finished my 8 hour build of my Z77 Sabertooth + 3770K + 16GB G.Skill 2133 RAM.
> 
> I set the RAM to run off the BIOS XMP settings (2133 DRAM Speed, 11-11-11-30, 1.60 DRAM Volts). I didn't modify any other RAM settings.
> 
> 'm running Memtest86+ right now, with no errors so far ... but ...
> 
> Before I had Memtest86+ running, I accidentally booted into my Win7x64 (SP1) SSD drive. Win7x64 had a 0x7B BSOD before Windows finished booting.
> 
> Should I be setting my RAM speeds differently than using the BIOS XMP configuration?
> 
> Or, is there anything else that might have caused my Win7x64 STOP 0x7B?
> 
> (Oh, and one more thing: When I booted off a standard SATA HD instead of my SATA SSD drive, I was able to boot up OK in an earlier version of my PC setup)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AzJazz


"Before I had Memtest86+ running, I accidentally booted into my Win7x64 (SP1) SSD drive. Win7x64 had a 0x7B BSOD before Windows finished booting." - this line scares me. So did you previously have Win7 installed on this SSD and you just plugged it into your new build assuming it would boot? That's the way I'm reading this. Unless you meant you installed Win7 before running memtest.

You could take it off XMP and manually set the speed, timings, and voltage. (which is what most of us do)


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> "Before I had Memtest86+ running, I accidentally booted into my Win7x64 (SP1) SSD drive. Win7x64 had a 0x7B BSOD before Windows finished booting." - this line scares me. So did you previously have Win7 installed on this SSD and you just plugged it into your new build assuming it would boot? That's the way I'm reading this. Unless you meant you installed Win7 before running memtest.
> 
> You could take it off XMP and manually set the speed, timings, and voltage. (which is what most of us do)


Do this then let memtest run overnight. Do a solid 3 passes minimum. Sometimes the first pass doesn't pick up on errors for some reason. Ran memtest on some mushkin blackline sticks and it had zero errors after one pass so I thought all was good. I was wrong. Then I went back to Corsair ram and all was good


----------



## AzJazz

I found the source of my STOP 0x7B problem.

I had installed Win7x64 previously on my SSD, and used that drive in my new Sabertooth Z77 system.

I originally set my Storage type to AHCI (since that is what it was before on my previous system). I read elsewhere that people have resolved the STOP 0x7B issue by switching their Storage Type to either IDE or RAID.

When I switched to RAID, my system booted up fine, and then I installed all the Sabertooth Win7x64 drivers.

I can now boot up fine with an AHCI Storage Type.

A few more questions:


I have seen problems where my new system doesn't always come back up (no BIOS status or anything) after a power-up or system restart. I am running the latest BIOS (1805).
I have an internal USB-based multi-style memory card reader. Sometimes, one of the 4 ports has a yellow exclamation mark next to it in the Device Manager (and, it's always the same port). This memory reader has always worked flawlessly in my previous Asus motherboard. Sometimes, the port is properly recognized, too. Switching to a different USB connection had no effect.
Is these known issues?

Thanks,

AJ


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> I found the source of my STOP 0x7B problem.
> 
> I had installed Win7x64 previously on my SSD, and used that drive in my new Sabertooth Z77 system.
> 
> I originally set my Storage type to AHCI (since that is what it was before on my previous system). I read elsewhere that people have resolved the STOP 0x7B issue by switching their Storage Type to either IDE or RAID.
> 
> When I switched to RAID, my system booted up fine, and then I installed all the Sabertooth Win7x64 drivers.
> 
> I can now boot up fine with an AHCI Storage Type.
> 
> A few more questions:
> 
> 
> I have seen problems where my new system doesn't always come back up (no BIOS status or anything) after a power-up or system restart. I am running the latest BIOS (1805).
> I have an internal USB-based multi-style memory card reader. Sometimes, one of the 4 ports has a yellow exclamation mark next to it in the Device Manager (and, it's always the same port). This memory reader has always worked flawlessly in my previous Asus motherboard. Sometimes, the port is properly recognized, too. Switching to a different USB connection had no effect.
> Is these known issues?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AJ


I figured that's what happened as mentioned in my previous post, but now that you confirmed it, I can say that that is a big NO NO. You should really do a clean install rather than doing what you are doing.

I feel like the problems you are having will be resolved then.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

What was your old system?
As fo suggested, I would reinstall the system of you have changed motherboard.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I figured that's what happened as mentioned in my previous post, but now that you confirmed it, I can say that that is a big NO NO. You should really do a clean install rather than doing what you are doing.
> 
> I feel like the problems you are having will be resolved then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What was your old system?
> As fo suggested, I would reinstall the system of you have changed motherboard.


Hi, guys - My old motherboard was a Asus P6T Deluxe V2.

I wish I could do a "reinstall", but I can't live without my computer for a few weeks. I did do a Win7 "system reinstall", where it writes a new O/S, but keeps the applications installed and many of the device drivers. I currently have about 200 programs / drivers installed on my PC, after I did a "Spring Cleaning". I started to do a clean Win7 install a few weeks ago before purchasing my new motherboard (I was trying to find out if I had a hardware or O/S problem with the P6TD-V2). I spent an entire weekend trying to get the system up (with only 3 hours of sleep that weekend), and got maybe 1/5 of the way through. Then, I was told that I had to get business stuff done on the PC ... and if I started doing the business work, my corporate files would be out-of-sync and lost if I had to go back to my old PC backup. I just don't have enough time to do a full installation, especially if it may not fix the problems I'm seeing.

And, here's why I don't think the Win7 reinstall is a guaranteed fix:

About 50% of the time now, I have seen my system lock-up during the boot sequence, even before it shows me the BIOS status or AHCI/RAID configuration. When this occurs, the red CPU LED is lit, and stays on. Sometimes (very rarely), the system will decide to start up and finish booting properly into the BIOS a minute or two later. I'm not currently overclocking anything (though, I have my DRAM set for its rated value of 2133). How I reboot doesn't matter - If I do a "Restart" from Windows, or a cold boot, the PC will lock up randomly.

Once the system boots up, it is generally pretty solid. I can run OCCT LinPack @ 90% memory without a hiccup for over an hour. My CPU temp is usually around 55 Deg C during the testing.

I think I have some sort of hardware issue with my new board. I think I may have to get another Sabertooth Z77.

AJ


----------



## Totally Dubbed

CPU led is worrying.
Either it is cpu related or board related. Your pins are in tact?

I do have to say that reinstall is essential for stability and can sometimes cause problems as information of your old board is held on your os. Long story short, you should start by testing the problem by reinstalling your os, and then moving to hardware. Ie. Diagnosis of a bsod starts with programs and software rather than hardware. Up to you in the end, but I would never put a new board with a old os from another board. Recipe for disaster, maybe not now, but pragmatic later on.


----------



## iARDAs

I ordered a Cosmos II case.

Sabertooth Z77 should look awesome in that case.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I ordered a Cosmos II case.
> 
> Sabertooth Z77 should look awesome in that case.


I feel like we're in a lot of the same threads









Since you announced it, you are now obligated to post pix.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I feel like we're in a lot of the same threads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you announced it, you are now obligated to post pix.


Hahaha I noticed that too bro

We are on a pretty much similar way 

I will post pictures. I just dont know when the case will arrive. Instead of picking it up from the store, I ordered it online. I couldnt risk the case not fitting the car. 800D barely fit few months ago.


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I ordered a Cosmos II case.
> 
> Sabertooth Z77 should look awesome in that case.


That it does


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^MUY sexy


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> CPU led is worrying.
> Either it is cpu related or board related. Your pins are in tact?
> 
> I do have to say that reinstall is essential for stability and can sometimes cause problems as information of your old board is held on your os. Long story short, you should start by testing the problem by reinstalling your os, and then moving to hardware. Ie. Diagnosis of a bsod starts with programs and software rather than hardware. Up to you in the end, but I would never put a new board with a old os from another board. Recipe for disaster, maybe not now, but pragmatic later on.


Thanks, Totally Dubbed - I did do a visual CPU socket pin check prior to the CPU installation. I didn't see any obvious pin bends, but there are 1155 pins ... But, I would think that if there were any pin shorts, I guessing I would probably be seeing more significant and persistent problems than I am seeing right now.

I will attempt to do a phased reinstall of Win7, which will probably take a month or so. I will backup my "active" business PC to my network storage, then restore my last image of the reinstall and continue installing programs/settings for a few hours, back that up, and then restore my active business image to continue with my work. It's going to take a lot of time, but I'll give it a shot.

I have never seen stability issues with installing new motherboards in the past with WinXP, though (other than the new mobo hardware drivers having issues, but that isn't an impact from the previous mobo). I've replaced motherboards under WinXP 3 or 4 times, and used the same WinXP installation hard drive without problems.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Thanks, Totally Dubbed - I did do a visual CPU socket pin check prior to the CPU installation. I didn't see any obvious pin bends, but there are 1155 pins ... But, I would think that if there were any pin shorts, I guessing I would probably be seeing more significant and persistent problems than I am seeing right now.
> 
> I will attempt to do a phased reinstall of Win7, which will probably take a month or so. I will backup my "active" business PC to my network storage, then restore my last image of the reinstall and continue installing programs/settings for a few hours, back that up, and then restore my active business image to continue with my work. It's going to take a lot of time, but I'll give it a shot.
> 
> I have never seen stability issues with installing new motherboards in the past with WinXP, though (other than the new mobo hardware drivers having issues, but that isn't an impact from the previous mobo). I've replaced motherboards under WinXP 3 or 4 times, and used the same WinXP installation hard drive without problems.


Pleasure mate, let us know how it goes


----------



## Davitz

Totally Dubbed: I'll post pics of my new desk later today IF my order came in.... Then lets say my new desk is gonna look pretty full haha.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> Totally Dubbed: I'll post pics of my new desk later today IF my order came in.... Then lets say my new desk is gonna look pretty full haha.


hahaha
My floor was a little messy but now it is all cleaned (check my bite sized PC log)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Thanks, Totally Dubbed - I did do a visual CPU socket pin check prior to the CPU installation. I didn't see any obvious pin bends, but there are 1155 pins ... But, I would think that if there were any pin shorts, I guessing I would probably be seeing more significant and persistent problems than I am seeing right now.
> 
> I will attempt to do a phased reinstall of Win7, which will probably take a month or so. I will backup my "active" business PC to my network storage, then restore my last image of the reinstall and continue installing programs/settings for a few hours, back that up, and then restore my active business image to continue with my work. It's going to take a lot of time, but I'll give it a shot.
> 
> I have never seen stability issues with installing new motherboards in the past with WinXP, though (other than the new mobo hardware drivers having issues, but that isn't an impact from the previous mobo). I've replaced motherboards under WinXP 3 or 4 times, and used the same WinXP installation hard drive without problems.


I don't think that the red CPU light is related to the OS, but as Dubbed, MKHunt, and I all agree, using an old build with new hardware is a bad idea. You can generally get them to be stable or work, but they will generally not perform the way they should or you'll have several headaches along the way. Please trust us on this.

There is a reason businesses buy the exact same model with the exact same specs....so they can build a single image for that model and roll it out on all of them. That is an example of when it is okay to do something like that.

But when you are taking an image of a machine that was built with different hardware, different drivers, and you are forcing the OS to adapt to that, it is just a recipe for disaster.

Installing programs and all that sucks, but you are welcome to try migration utilities. That isn't my style. (or probably anyone else's here.







)

As far as the CPU light, some people mentioned this was because of ram. How about your 8pin power plug for the cpu? Are you using 4 or 8 from the psu? Is it fully secured? This is the connector I'm referring to.

Next, did you disable XMP and manually set timings, voltage, and speed like I mentioned in my other post?

Are you overclocking?

What is your CPU cooler? Have you monitored your temps? Does the bios log show any errors?





 - this person had a bent pin and was able to repair it with tweezers and a needle.


----------



## Davitz

Yay, my last monitor came in ^^


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> Yay, my last monitor came in ^^


What GPUs do you have in that system


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> Yay, my last monitor came in ^^


What GPUs do you have in that system


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> What GPUs do you have in that system


2 GTX 680 Lightnings under water.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I don't think that the red CPU light is related to the OS, but as Dubbed, MKHunt, and I all agree, using an old build with new hardware is a bad idea. You can generally get them to be stable or work, but they will generally not perform the way they should or you'll have several headaches along the way. Please trust us on this.


Trust me, I trust you!







The only thing stopping me from doing a new Win7 installation is the amount of time involved, and the 2 businesses I need to run on it nearly every day. I back up my system every night, since I need to keep my system operational and up-to-date. Otherwise, I would certainly have done it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Installing programs and all that sucks, but you are welcome to try migration utilities. That isn't my style. (or probably anyone else's here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


As an experiment, I tried a migration software package with very low expectations. Unfortunately, the application met my expectations, and would have been a bazillion times less stable than using my existing hard drive. So, I'm sticking with my hard drive for now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> As far as the CPU light, some people mentioned this was because of ram. How about your 8pin power plug for the cpu? Are you using 4 or 8 from the psu? Is it fully secured? This is the connector I'm referring to.


Unfortunately, my Corsair Silent Pro Gold 800W PSU doesn't have an 8-pin connector compatible with the motherboard ... 4 of the pins on the split Molex connector don't fit. So, I have the other 4 pins connected. The Sabertooth manual said this was OK, but now I'm not so sure. I wonder if there are any Molex adapters or replacement connectors that I can purchase that would be compatible with the Asus motherboard? (The Corsair Silent Pro Gold 800W PSU is ATX V2.3, so it should have been compatible)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Next, did you disable XMP and manually set timings, voltage, and speed like I mentioned in my other post?


I did try disabling XMP at one point, and entering the info manually. I can't remember if it had any effect, but I will try it again and let you know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are you overclocking?


Nope. Well ... sort of. When I was goofing around, I tried the Asus BIOS "OC Tuner" feature. (A nice feature!) It set my system to overclock my CPU to 4.3 GHz. I ran OCCT LinPack (90% memory) for about an hour without any failures. My CPU temperature went up to 65 DegC. After I had my fun with that, I set my system back to stock, and have had it there ever since.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> What is your CPU cooler? Have you monitored your temps? Does the bios log show any errors?


My CPU cooler is a Nocuta NH-D14 I monitor my temps religiously. My max CPU core temp is normally around 35 DegC. When I run OCCT LinPack, my CPU temperature is averaging around 55 DegC, with a short peak of around 60 DegC at the beginning.

Where is the BIOS log stored at?

AzJazz


----------



## Brizzol

Just want to show some appreciation for the ST Z77..
here's my recent build (not finished yet)


----------



## flo-oc

I received my mobo


----------



## jktmas

EDIT: I also have a G510, I love mine so far and really like how the keys feel on my fingertips.
Ok should be done until i get a 570 or my psu sleeved.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brizzol*
> 
> Just want to show some appreciation for the ST Z77..
> here's my recent build (not finished yet)


Looks great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flo-oc*
> 
> I received my mobo


Mother of...air coolers!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> EDIT: I also have a G510, I love mine so far and really like how the keys feel on my fingertips.
> Ok should be done until i get a 570 or my psu sleeved.


Great cable management mate!


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Great cable management mate!


Thanks, you should see the backside, it makes my head heart when i have to figure out where to shove all the cables and still be able to make the back close, but im proud of how it looks for now, but im actually planning on sending my whole psu into Lutro customs and have him work his magic as i am terrible at things that require me to keep my hads still and hold onto small things, I have lineman hands, with lots of callices from weight lifting every day.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Thanks, you should see the backside, it makes my head heart when i have to figure out where to shove all the cables and still be able to make the back close, but im proud of how it looks for now, but im actually planning on sending my whole psu into Lutro customs and have him work his magic as i am terrible at things that require me to keep my hads still and hold onto small things, I have lineman hands, with lots of callices from weight lifting every day.


haha!
Well the main this is that you tried, and did an EXCELLENT job.


----------



## pumptovimto

Hi just got my Sabertooth z77 yesterday, I am not much of an overclocker but wanted to start, my previous board was an asus P877-m and I thought the sabertooth would be a step up in performance, but out the box the p877-m boots about 100 times faster than the sabertooth(I am not kidding, on the p877-m the window logo didnt fully load before it was in windows, with the sabertooth, not only does the logo fully load but it sits and glows at me for a very long time), is this to be expected! kind of feeling like I just wasted a whole lot of money









So far my troubleshooting steps, have been to;
reinstall from scratch window7
Install core Temp and CPU-z to check core temps etc(all look of ranging between20c to 30c on idle)

My Rig consists of

Sabertooth Z77
I5 3750k
OCZ SSD
16GB of Corsair vengance performance memory
NZXT 650w PSU

I have the HD plugged into the brown SATA6G_1 port

Any help on sorting this would be much appreciated

Pimptovimto!


----------



## jktmas

You can go into the bios and select fast boot but its not suggested if you overclock because it basicly removes your option to enter the bios. also did you setup the drive in the bios to be the fastest way for your ssd to start up? and finally i found an option to turn off flash drive scanning to boot off of which also makes it faster to boot up.


----------



## Black Magic

Hello all, this is my first post. About a week ago, I assembled my new PC:
*H80* - Wanted the H100, but didn't have room in the case
*Case* - Cheap mid tower, this was my first mistake. I'll probably end up exchanging this case for a new case in the near future. The case came with a 500W PS, which I need to upgrade... sometime.
*Asus Sabertooth z77*
*i7-3770K*
*2x 4G Kingston 1600mhz* - Not what i wanted, but what was available.
*Windows 8 64*

Ok, with that out of the way, I also participate in BOINC. I have heard the endless praises of GPU processing, so I went out this weekend and picked up a HD7970. I wasn't able to place this card in the

My hope was that I could use the HD7970 for gaming/boinc and just use the igpu(4000) for standard daily use. However, I can not get the igpu to become active. I am new to Windows 8, but figured out how to get to the screen properties, only one monitor is displayed and that is the 7970 connection.

I've searched this forum and I must admit, I did not read every post, but I was unable to find a solution. My guess is that this is setup in BIOS, but I was not able to easily identify which of the advanced settings would control being able to use both devices.

Oh, as a side note, I have tried a 1000W power supply, so I don't think my power supply is the culprit.

Can someone point me in the right direction?


----------



## AzJazz

@MotherFo / Totally Dubbed - I am in the middle of another Win7x64 re-installation.

Here's an update on my problems:

I am still seeing random system hangs when initially booting up my PC, and the CPU light is on when this happens.

I did do a manual configuration of my DRAM timings/voltages instead of using the built-in XMP profile. I didn't see any benefit from this. The hangs before entering BIOS were still about half the time, or worse.

However, it seems like the boot hangs are less frequent now after I modified (lowered) some of my DRAM voltages. *One question:* Should I be trying to set my DRAM voltages based off of the configuration values, or the real-time monitored values that are being shown in the BIOS?

On the plus side, I was able to get the other 4-pin Molex connector installed on my 8-pin eATX motherboard connector, so I have eliminated that from being an issue. All it took was a few solid slams with a hammer to get the wrongly keyed pins to fit.

(Just kidding







... Although the Molex connector pins were keyed differently coming from my supply, they still fit on my motherboard with the proper yellow/black wires going to the proper pins)

After adjusting my DRAM voltages, my system will hang before the BIOS status screen less than 20% of the time now.

*Question:* Are there any specific voltage settings I should be making in my BIOS to get more stable?

Also, the reinstallation of Win7x64 still acts a little odd occasionally. When booting up Windows (around 10% of the time), the Windows start-up screen will hang for about a minute or two prior to showing the glowing Windows logo. Normally, my system is fully booted in less than 20 seconds off of my SSD drive (I currently have a pretty bare-bones installation).

Any ideas?

Thanks again,

AzJazz


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi is there any ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 Owners that is running windows 8

Can you tell my if you got your drivers from the asus site I know there a z77 drivers
section on o/c net but are they safe it don't se if there beta or whql

I am just looking for the best driver to date for the board

Intel chipset Intel Lan / IRST / INTEL ME


----------



## jktmas

Im in need of drivers as well, but i need mac LAN driver for this board, any ideas?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Magic*
> 
> Hello all, this is my first post. About a week ago, I assembled my new PC:
> *H80* - Wanted the H100, but didn't have room in the case
> *Case* - Cheap mid tower, this was my first mistake. I'll probably end up exchanging this case for a new case in the near future. The case came with a 500W PS, which I need to upgrade... sometime.
> *Asus Sabertooth z77*
> *i7-3770K*
> *2x 4G Kingston 1600mhz* - Not what i wanted, but what was available.
> *Windows 8 64*
> 
> Ok, with that out of the way, I also participate in BOINC. I have heard the endless praises of GPU processing, so I went out this weekend and picked up a HD7970. I wasn't able to place this card in the
> 
> My hope was that I could use the HD7970 for gaming/boinc and just use the igpu(4000) for standard daily use. However, I can not get the igpu to become active. I am new to Windows 8, but figured out how to get to the screen properties, only one monitor is displayed and that is the 7970 connection.
> 
> I've searched this forum and I must admit, I did not read every post, but I was unable to find a solution. My guess is that this is setup in BIOS, but I was not able to easily identify which of the advanced settings would control being able to use both devices.
> 
> Oh, as a side note, I have tried a 1000W power supply, so I don't think my power supply is the culprit.
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction?


Enable it under the 'Multi Display Option" in the Advanced settings area of the BIOS. Multi display is ASUS way of saying the iGPU on this board. If you install Lucid VIRTU from the ASUS website after enabling your iGPU then it will automatically switch to it under desktop conditions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi is there any ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 Owners that is running windows 8
> 
> Can you tell my if you got your drivers from the asus site I know there a z77 drivers
> section on o/c net but are they safe it don't se if there beta or whql
> 
> I am just looking for the best driver to date for the board
> 
> Intel chipset Intel Lan / IRST / INTEL ME


I run W8x64 on my sabertooth and I just use the latest drivers from the ASUS site. They haven't given me any trouble.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Im in need of drivers as well, but i need mac LAN driver for this board, any ideas?


The device is an Intel LAN chip, so you might be able to source generic Intel LAN drivers for mac.


----------



## Arvoisa

Greetings fellow Sabertooth Z77 owners.

Im having ram issue with this mobo, only 2 of my 16gb 4x4 ram is stable. With 2 sticks memtest shows no errors and everything works as expected. But if I put the rest I get dozen errors under 5min and the whole pc is very unstable, wont boot into windows and so on. I hope you get the point.

It doesn't work even when I set default or optimized settings. I've also tried auto, XMP..

*Both, MOBO and RAM has been RMAd. Got new ones, same problem.*

Specs:

Sabertooth z77 (*Bios: 1805. Ive tried couple earlier builds also*)
i5-3570k
Geforce 660ti
Power: Corsair AX650
Memory: *KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX* (http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1600C9D3K4_16GX.pdf)
+Others

So is there any way to get whole kit working?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Maybe it is because the kit is not compatible?
But I would think it could be IMC related...ie. CPU


----------



## iARDAs

Sabertooth in my new Cosmos II


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Very sleek! Good job!


----------



## Arvoisa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Maybe it is because the kit is not compatible?
> But I would think it could be IMC related...ie. CPU


I dont think so, might be cpu. Ive seen couple review builds with same kit and mobo.


----------



## iARDAs

Oh btw my USB 3.0 interior header on the MOBO is broken.

Is there a way to replace that?


----------



## MKHunt

Time to put the memory slot myth to rest!

Memory bandwidth is higher in slots A1 and B1 (closest to socket)
Memory latency is lower in slots A1 and B1.

Ignore the current signifier (red) in the latency test. I refreshed the test last with the A2 and B2 but green and blue are still A1 and B1.





Small differences, but a real performance gain for absolutely no charge,

@iARDAS, only way to fix USB3 header would be to RMA the board.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> @MotherFo / Totally Dubbed - I am in the middle of another Win7x64 re-installation.
> 
> Here's an update on my problems:
> 
> I am still seeing random system hangs when initially booting up my PC, and the CPU light is on when this happens.
> 
> I did do a manual configuration of my DRAM timings/voltages instead of using the built-in XMP profile. I didn't see any benefit from this. The hangs before entering BIOS were still about half the time, or worse.
> 
> However, it seems like the boot hangs are less frequent now after I modified (lowered) some of my DRAM voltages. *One question:* Should I be trying to set my DRAM voltages based off of the configuration values, or the real-time monitored values that are being shown in the BIOS?
> 
> On the plus side, I was able to get the other 4-pin Molex connector installed on my 8-pin eATX motherboard connector, so I have eliminated that from being an issue. All it took was a few solid slams with a hammer to get the wrongly keyed pins to fit.
> 
> (Just kidding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Although the Molex connector pins were keyed differently coming from my supply, they still fit on my motherboard with the proper yellow/black wires going to the proper pins)
> 
> After adjusting my DRAM voltages, my system will hang before the BIOS status screen less than 20% of the time now.
> 
> *Question:* Are there any specific voltage settings I should be making in my BIOS to get more stable?
> 
> Also, the reinstallation of Win7x64 still acts a little odd occasionally. When booting up Windows (around 10% of the time), the Windows start-up screen will hang for about a minute or two prior to showing the glowing Windows logo. Normally, my system is fully booted in less than 20 seconds off of my SSD drive (I currently have a pretty bare-bones installation).
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> AzJazz


When I saw the hammer thing, I nearly screamed out loud. You are positive you did the right connector right? You didn't have to force anything?

Next, in your earlier post, you said you were using AI Tuner and overclocking. *Reset everything to stock.* (non-negotiable if you are getting cpu error lights)
Edit: Saw that you said you went to stock...maybe reset bios to defaults and then go from there including adjusting the ram as I mention below.

Your DRAM timings, voltage, and speed should be set to what is on the actual stick. Corsair generally has all this information on each stick.

I'm getting a bit confused as to which re-installation of Win7 you are referring to. If it is the one where you just reinstalled over the top like we mentioned before, I'm not surprised it hangs and does weird stuff.

Also, you mentioned you run 2 businesses off this machine. Is it not possible to hook up your old rig for the time being till you get your new one squared away with a clean installation of Windows?

For the heck of it, have you verified that you plugged the 4-pin cpu fan into the right connector?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arvoisa*
> 
> Greetings fellow Sabertooth Z77 owners.
> 
> Im having ram issue with this mobo, only 2 of my 16gb 4x4 ram is stable. With 2 sticks memtest shows no errors and everything works as expected. But if I put the rest I get dozen errors under 5min and the whole pc is very unstable, wont boot into windows and so on. I hope you get the point.
> 
> It doesn't work even when I set default or optimized settings. I've also tried auto, XMP..
> 
> *Both, MOBO and RAM has been RMAd. Got new ones, same problem.*
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Sabertooth z77 (*Bios: 1805. Ive tried couple earlier builds also*)
> i5-3570k
> Geforce 660ti
> Power: Corsair AX650
> Memory: *KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX* (http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1600C9D3K4_16GX.pdf)
> +Others
> 
> So is there any way to get whole kit working?


Have you tested one of the working sticks in each slot one by one to verify it isn't a bad dimm slot on the board? If you have and all 4 slots work, then RMA the kit as two of those sticks might just be bad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Oh btw my USB 3.0 interior header on the MOBO is broken.
> 
> Is there a way to replace that?


Is it just bent pins?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Is it just bent pins?


Yes they are. I couldnt allign them.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> @iARDAS, only way to fix USB3 header would be to RMA the board.


No way I am RMAing just for that  I bought it from USA as well so I cant send it to Asus Turkey.

Sux.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Yes they are. I couldnt allign them.


Dang...even with some tiny needlenose pliers? Seems like a waste to have to send it in for an RMA


----------



## Eze2kiel

I've 4 memory sticks Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 2100MHz DDR3 4GB each.

My question is how I've to manually set starting this mother, to keep with the XMS profile (you need or if you configure everything by hand is better?).

I await comments, because I need to know also that put voltages, considering that I've all the memory banks busy...


----------



## Black Magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Enable it under the 'Multi Display Option" in the Advanced settings area of the BIOS. Multi display is ASUS way of saying the iGPU on this board. If you install Lucid VIRTU from the ASUS website after enabling your iGPU then it will automatically switch to it under desktop conditions.


I tried changing Multi display to enabled before, but it did not help. I made this change then I downloaded Lucid. During the install it stated that Net 3.5 was required, so after that was installed, I started the Lucid install again. This time I received an error message from VIRTU MVP *Integrated Graphic Device was not found*. I thought I should reboot, just to be safe, I rebooted but had the same results.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Just out of interest...if I had to rma my z77, and got a new one in, I wouldn't have to reinstall Windows would I?
Considering the hardware hadn't changed...
I thought I screwed up my imc, and there was a 2% chance of my motherboard actually being the problem...that 2% is looking a lot more like 99% right now...


----------



## jktmas

I must say, that cosmos build a few posts back is amazing looking, if it had sleeved cables and 3way sli 670's, i would jizz in my pants.


----------



## AceRuckus

Hi all! I'm a new owner of the Sabertooth Z77 mobo. Just opened it up to inspect for bent pins and other stuff, but I noticed this weird looking residue around the edges of the back of the motherboard. Was wondering if anyone else noticed it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My friend informed me of the residue. That's to do with its use and somehow linked to stability. It's basically dust. Nothing to worry about, but something cleaning worthy.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Thank you soo much! This fixed everything. All my ram works. I have OC capabilities now. Thankyou again! I was looing into buying another board!


Solonowarion

I'm going to try this today. As you could well be right - even though I HIGHLY doubted ANYTHING being wrong with my Z77...!
Cheers for bringing it to my attention +rep to you and "angel"


----------



## ad556

I tried to OC my vengeance 16 gb a tad higher but it never worked, my mate apparently oced his and he has the exact same brand but the red light stays on my sabertooth anyone know why might be a noob question sorry


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> I tried to OC my vengeance 16 gb a tad higher but it never worked, my mate apparently oced his and he has the exact same brand but the red light stays on my sabertooth anyone know why might be a noob question sorry


that's never a good sign - which light is on?


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's never a good sign - which light is on?


It only happens when I OC the ram my 3770K is at 4 Ghz when I put the ram to stock no problems did a memtest ram works fine could I just be unlucky? Cause if I OC it I did boot but eventually got BSOD, it went away once stock.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> It only happens when I OC the ram my 3770K is at 4 Ghz when I put the ram to stock no problems did a memtest ram works fine could I just be unlucky? Cause if I OC it I did boot but eventually got BSOD, it went away once stock.


OC'ing ram is related to BIOS & CPU too don't forget - so maybe your board is being a pain to OC it, whereas on your friend's it is fine.
I couldn't OC my vengeance myself - wouldn't boot with under CL9/rated specs. I would just like to simply put it out there - I hate asus. I very much regret buying this board.


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OC'ing ram is related to BIOS & CPU too don't forget - so maybe your board is being a pain to OC it, whereas on your friend's it is fine.
> I couldn't OC my vengeance myself - wouldn't boot with under CL9/rated specs. I would just like to simply put it out there - I hate asus. I very much regret buying this board.


In a way I do to, have you heard if others have OCed on the Saberooth? cause it states it's a OCing mobo false advertisement in some aspects I think


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> It only happens when I OC the ram my 3770K is at 4 Ghz when I put the ram to stock no problems did a memtest ram works fine could I just be unlucky? Cause if I OC it I did boot but eventually got BSOD, it went away once stock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OC'ing ram is related to BIOS & CPU too don't forget - so maybe your board is being a pain to OC it, whereas on your friend's it is fine.
> I couldn't OC my vengeance myself - wouldn't boot with under CL9/rated specs. I would just like to simply put it out there - I hate asus. I very much regret buying this board.


For what its worth, Vengeance ram is equal to corsair budget 1.5V. Rarely do the 1600MHz sticks OC. I couldn't get 2 sets of the CL9 to OC at all on 3 different boards. Vengeance 1600MHzCL9 is VERY low-binned RAM. Try nicer sticks and you'll have more success. Even my old gigabyte mobo could easily mess around with my muskhin enhanced blacklines, but not Vengeance.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> For what its worth, Vengeance ram is equal to corsair budget 1.5V. Rarely do the 1600MHz sticks OC. I couldn't get 2 sets of the CL9 to OC at all on 3 different boards. Vengeance 1600MHzCL9 is VERY low-binned RAM. Try nicer sticks and you'll have more success. Even my old gigabyte mobo could easily mess around with my muskhin enhanced blacklines, but not Vengeance.


Thanks for pointing this out lol. Was about to start throwin my two sense in as well, but this pretty much IS the case. While it may be true the mobo plays a lot nicer with OC cpus... you can't really knock it in good faith for not playing well with a particular make and model of ram. Test some diff ram then come in and knock the board if you want to lol

Another thing just to point out... Turn to page 2-9 in your manual and verify your exact model 1600 ram is on the QVL, if not... then you can't knock them for making you aware it wasn't tested.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm going to try this today. As you could well be right - even though I HIGHLY doubted ANYTHING being wrong with my Z77...!
> Cheers for bringing it to my attention +rep to you and "angel"


Oh no, what's going on?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Another thing just to point out... Turn to page 2-9 in your manual and verify your exact model 1600 ram is on the QVL, if not... then you can't knock them for making you aware it wasn't tested.


My exact kit is in the QVL - just the board refuses to go below CL9.
Thing is for me I barely care at it doesn't make a noticeable difference. Unless I'm benching etc. So RAM oc'ing despite it being THE THING back several years ago - now is almost pointless.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Oh no, what's going on?


Fo you don't know?
I de-lidded my CPU.
Thought I scratched the IMC.
I put the CPU in another board, and it runs all my 16GB RAM without a problem.

At first me thinking I screwed my CPU...now it seems like my motherboard magically thought to say no to two slots of RAM...
I'm reminiscing 2 years ago (pretty much EXACTLY 2 years ago) where my old P5K premium did the same thing.
Wasted time, money and effort trying to sort my old P5K premium out, but the monkeys at ASUS did nothing to help.
Now I'm back int he same position, except THIS TIME, it was working before I de-lidded.
So I'm going to play around with coolers today - and then if that's to no effect, will wait for my i3 to come in.
If the i3 reports the same problems as my i7....then it is quite obvious what the problem is.

Once I determine that, I'll try the method listed above, and if that doesn't work, both my Antec 920 & Asus Z77 are being RMA'ed. I've done nothing wrong to either of them.
1. Antec 920 - performs about 3-5c better than a STOCK INTEL COOLER
2. Z77 board decided to stop working

Early days so far, but I'm going to thoroughly test it out before jumping to conclusions etc.
UTTERLY disappointed with ASUS to be honest.

My mum's PC build doesn't have ASUS on it - and the asus sound card, I didn't even bother touching the official rubbish drivers - and went straight in for the uni-drivers.

My friend is also building a powerhouse (which i will be assembling) and I advised him AGAINST buying anything ASUS related.
If I hadn't had such POOR experiences with ASUS I wouldn't have been saying this.
I ONLY bought this sabertooth for the looks (now thinking of it that's completely useless as it is in a case) and for the BIOS EZ functionality in WINDOWS (but that caused services.msc to report problems and cause 3min hang up times in windows boot)
Long story short: I advise buying another brand.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My exact kit is in the QVL - just the board refuses to go below CL9.
> Thing is for me I barely care at it doesn't make a noticeable difference. Unless I'm benching etc. So RAM oc'ing despite it being THE THING back several years ago - now is almost pointless.
> Fo you don't know?
> I de-lidded my CPU.
> Thought I scratched the IMC.
> I put the CPU in another board, and it runs all my 16GB RAM without a problem.
> 
> At first me thinking I screwed my CPU...now it seems like my motherboard magically thought to say no to two slots of RAM...
> I'm reminiscing 2 years ago (pretty much EXACTLY 2 years ago) where my old P5K premium did the same thing.
> Wasted time, money and effort trying to sort my old P5K premium out, but the monkeys at ASUS did nothing to help.


Fair enough. Could be numerous things then. I'll give it to you that ASUS has terrible customer support lol. I just wish I didn't like their products


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> Fair enough. Could be numerous things then. I'll give it to you that ASUS has terrible customer support lol. I just wish I didn't like their products


I love their hardware, but I'm starting to hate that too.
Their software...from when I can remember building a PC - which is around 5-6years ago, has always been terrible.
No change since then.
Why does a £170 motherboard not have an error code (as pointed out by another member here), and why is it that upon installing all the software, does it slow down my boot time considerably, to the point it hangs a £1200 system for 3 minutes?
Why Asus? Why?


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I love their hardware, but I'm starting to hate that too.
> Their software...from when I can remember building a PC - which is around 5-6years ago, has always been terrible.
> No change since then.
> Why does a £170 motherboard not have an error code (as pointed out by another member here), and why is it that upon installing all the software, does it slow down my boot time considerably, to the point it hangs a £1200 system for 3 minutes?
> Why Asus? Why?


I saw a brief glimpse of your boot problem a while back. Was it confirmed to be the software? If so that is very interesting as my sig rig I installed all the asus software and my boot time is still less than 15 seconds. I do agree though. Asus customer support and software has been lacking. I will always sweat by their hardware though. I still have a G1S laptop that is over 5 years old that has literally been used all day everyday since I purchased it that is still running as strong as ever. It stays running 24 hours a day and has since its purchase. Only thing needed replacing was the hard drive because of normal lifespan. As far as error codes... you just mean to specifically localize hardware failures?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I saw a brief glimpse of your boot problem a while back. Was it confirmed to be the software? If so that is very interesting as my sig rig I installed all the asus software and my boot time is still less than 15 seconds. I do agree though. Asus customer support and software has been lacking. I will always sweat by their hardware though. I still have a G1S laptop that is over 5 years old that has literally been used all day everyday since I purchased it that is still running as strong as ever. It stays running 24 hours a day and has since its purchase. Only thing needed replacing was the hard drive because of normal lifespan. As far as error codes... you just mean to specifically localize hardware failures?


Error codes, as in a display on the motherboard - very useful for quickly diagnosing problems.

As for the boot time:
First of all I had problems with the asus fan control service. Those were Asus SOFTWARE related. They slowed down my boot time by literally 3-4 minutes (I'm not exaggerating, it boot into windows then got stuck thinking) As soon as I disabled the services it booted up within 20seconds.

I re-installed windows, as I didn't like the fact that i had to modify the services, and asus left a lot of things behind.
After i re-installed, for some reason, then my z77 would boot in 30 seconds, and not the 20 seconds i had before.

Those were my boot things.
I realised, after installing my mum's PC, what slows down the pc by a HUGE amount: Windows updates.
Simply put, that's the MAIN thing that made my mum's pc boot up faster than my SSD by around 5 seconds, to around 10 seconds *slower* than my SSD after win updates.

I'm quite impressed with the WD Black caviar so far - very good buy.


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Error codes, as in a display on the motherboard - very useful for quickly diagnosing problems.
> 
> As for the boot time:
> First of all I had problems with the asus fan control service. Those were Asus SOFTWARE related. They slowed down my boot time by literally 3-4 minutes (I'm not exaggerating, it boot into windows then got stuck thinking) As soon as I disabled the services it booted up within 20seconds.
> 
> I re-installed windows, as I didn't like the fact that i had to modify the services, and asus left a lot of things behind.
> After i re-installed, for some reason, then my z77 would boot in 30 seconds, and not the 20 seconds i had before.
> 
> Those were my boot things.
> I realised, after installing my mum's PC, what slows down the pc by a HUGE amount: Windows updates.
> Simply put, that's the MAIN thing that made my mum's pc boot up faster than my SSD by around 5 seconds, to around 10 seconds *slower* than my SSD after win updates.
> 
> I'm quite impressed with the WD Black caviar so far - very good buy.


Ahh ok. I am following you now. Yeah I remember weeks back when you were first discussing your boot problem.

Far as error codes, I think the LEDs are fine... the only thing that sucks is that it doesn't get specific so you can't localize the problem. (ie it just tells you that there is a general hardware error if its not a problem with vga or cpu or whatnot...)


----------



## johns36j

I have the sabertooth z77 and although i hate the recent bios update with a passion..my computer is still stable. If your running windows 7 make sure secure boot and fast boot are disabled. They only work with windows 8.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I can 100% confirm nothing is wrong with my cpu. It is the z77 board.
It's going to get rmaed. I don't feel like digging a deeper hole via wiping the bios chip. So asus, you did it again! 2yrs on, same problem. I swear on my life I'll never buy an asus product ever again.


----------



## MKHunt

Holy smokes man, your luck sounds like mine. Is it bad that the part of your experience that surprised me the most was the Khuler 920's performance?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Holy smokes man, your luck sounds like mine. Is it bad that the part of your experience that surprised me the most was the Khuler 920's performance?


I've always been in two minds about it....but now I can finally say - I'm unhappy with its performance.


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've always been in two minds about it....but now I can finally say - I'm unhappy with its performance.


I can say that I must be lucky so far so good with my z77


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah lol I thought so too by reading quite a few people reporting problems, then it hit me...Lol
Taken out all the leads and things from it now. Going to remove it from the case and test again.


----------



## AceRuckus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My friend informed me of the residue. That's to do with its use and somehow linked to stability. It's basically dust. Nothing to worry about, but something cleaning worthy.


Thank you for the response. Any recommendations on what to use to clean it with?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *likethegun*
> 
> I saw a brief glimpse of your boot problem a while back. Was it confirmed to be the software? If so that is very interesting as my sig rig I installed all the asus software and my boot time is still less than 15 seconds. I do agree though. Asus customer support and software has been lacking. I will always sweat by their hardware though. I still have a G1S laptop that is over 5 years old that has literally been used all day everyday since I purchased it that is still running as strong as ever. It stays running 24 hours a day and has since its purchase. Only thing needed replacing was the hard drive because of normal lifespan. As far as error codes... you just mean to specifically localize hardware failures?
> 
> 
> 
> Error codes, as in a display on the motherboard - very useful for quickly diagnosing problems.
> 
> As for the boot time:
> First of all I had problems with the asus fan control service. Those were Asus SOFTWARE related. They slowed down my boot time by literally 3-4 minutes (I'm not exaggerating, it boot into windows then got stuck thinking) As soon as I disabled the services it booted up within 20seconds.
> 
> I re-installed windows, as I didn't like the fact that i had to modify the services, and asus left a lot of things behind.
> After i re-installed, for some reason, then my z77 would boot in 30 seconds, and not the 20 seconds i had before.
> 
> Those were my boot things.
> I realised, after installing my mum's PC, what slows down the pc by a HUGE amount: Windows updates.
> Simply put, that's the MAIN thing that made my mum's pc boot up faster than my SSD by around 5 seconds, to around 10 seconds *slower* than my SSD after win updates.
> 
> I'm quite impressed with the WD Black caviar so far - very good buy.
Click to expand...

i feel your pain,but having said that your problem could be down to a few things:
your ssd could be on the way out. i had the same a few pc 's back where windows would start up slow and also hangs. we put this down to excess overclocking and bsod's and getting Corrupted windows/ssd and tested to be the problem
as for error codes for the z77,you would need to fit a speaker to your board,but i do agree they should fit some sort of led.if i can remember they did in the old days.

on mine sabertooth i had no problems with booting time,but having said i got mine z77 returned the other day all is ok,found out my problem was down to psu.while that was going on i had to buy another board and psu (as i can't go without a pc) and i went for gigabyte z77 in the end and its is a nice board. so if you intrested i got a asus sabertooth z77 up for sale


----------



## Eze2kiel

None?







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> I've 4 memory sticks Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 2100MHz DDR3 4GB each.
> 
> My question is how I've to manually set starting this mother, to keep with the XMS profile (you need or if you configure everything by hand is better?).
> 
> I await comments, because I need to know also that put voltages, considering that I've all the memory banks busy...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ok here's an update:
I dismantled my whole rig. Got the antec backplate off.
Checked back pins. Clreared cmos, put i3 with stock cooler on. Dram led still present.
Can't do anything else but void the warranty by wiping that bios chip. I won't attempt it in case it goes pear shaped so I'll rma the board. No idea of the cause. Checked all pins imaginable and took loads of pictures


----------



## shadowmilo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's the OC guide:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
> 
> You got the same board and chip as me, thus copy and pasting those settings in the OP of that thread (my bios settings) should render you a stable OC.
> 
> I would ignore doing proper OCing via turboEV.


but dude.... that link is to an IVY bridge cpu... the i7 3770k is a sandy bridge cpu... that overclocking guide is meant for a different cpu. its great and all that the settings worked but.. in theory the guide was made for something completely different..


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> When I saw the hammer thing, I nearly screamed out loud. You are positive you did the right connector right? You didn't have to force anything?


Hi, MotherFo - Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah, I was just joking about the Hammer-Time thing. I don't have to force the other 4-pin Molex connector at all. I assumed it wouldn't fit because the connector pins looked different. However, it looks like the rounded-side Molex pins will always fit into a Molex square. I have 4 rounded side pins, so they fit just fine, and all the yellow wires were on one side, and the black wires were all on the other side - just like they are supposed to be. Maybe the EATX standard for the other 4 pin connector wasn't finalized yet, and Corsair set up connector to fit regardless of what the EATX standard turned out to be.

*FYI:* I swapped out my new RAM with another fully functional RAM set from my old Asus P6T-Deluxe V2 motherboard. I saw the exact same BIOS boot flakeyness I saw before. So, the RAM is probably not the culprit.

So, I purchased a replacement Sabertooth Z77 motherboard today. I am seeing similar boot-up issues to what I saw before with my previous Sabertooth Z77.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Next, in your earlier post, you said you were using AI Tuner and overclocking. *Reset everything to stock.* (non-negotiable if you are getting cpu error lights)
> Edit: Saw that you said you went to stock...maybe reset bios to defaults and then go from there including adjusting the ram as I mention below.


So, I reflashed my BIOS again to 1805, and reset the BIOS settings to "Default". I didn't see anything different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Your DRAM timings, voltage, and speed should be set to what is on the actual stick. Corsair generally has all this information on each stick.


I'm using a low-profile G.Skill 2133 DRAM. I set the DRAM timings to what I saw on the card that the memory set came with (11-11-11-28). I am curious about what to set the voltage to, though. The monitored voltages in the BIOS / Thermal Radar are always reading a bit higher than the values I am setting. For example, I set the DRAM voltage to 1.60 V, and it is always reading about 0.02 V higher. If I set the DRAM voltage to 1.58, the monitored voltage is generally at around 1.6 V. Right now, I have the DRAM Volts set to 1.57, and the system seems more stable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I'm getting a bit confused as to which re-installation of Win7 you are referring to. If it is the one where you just reinstalled over the top like we mentioned before, I'm not surprised it hangs and does weird stuff.


No, I spent the last few days doing a new Win7x64 from scratch. I'm about 1/4 the way there, and haven't had much sleep lately. The system is pretty much as unstable as it was before I did the reinstall, though. I'm seeing the same USB device errors in Windows I did before. :-(

I think all of my problems have been hardware-related in some way. I am still hoping I will be able to solve it with good voltage / timing settings in the BIOS. Adjusting these values do have an effect on my system stability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Also, you mentioned you run 2 businesses off this machine. Is it not possible to hook up your old rig for the time being till you get your new one squared away with a clean installation of Windows?


Unfortunately, I don't have an "old rig". I am re-using the case, fans, devices, and power supply from my old system that was starting to flake out. I got the Sabertooth before my old system totally died. I don't have all of my business stuff installed in the new setup yet, but I've told my wife and co-workers that my PC Is totally dead right now, and "Don't expect anything from me for a few days, guys."
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> For the heck of it, have you verified that you plugged the 4-pin cpu fan into the right connector?


Yep!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Have you tested one of the working sticks in each slot one by one to verify it isn't a bad dimm slot on the board? If you have and all 4 slots work, then RMA the kit as two of those sticks might just be bad.
> Is it just bent pins?


Well, I'm using a new motherboard now. I tried working RAM from my old system, and I'm seeing the same stability issues. I don't think it is RAM related.

I did check the CPU socket ... No bent pins that I could see.


----------



## ad556

Just a question my sabertooth logo is disabled in bios my friend did it for me, although my 3770K is at 4 Ghz it takes a little bit to bring up the first post/boot screen with my pc info, but then boots in around 10-15 seconds when welcome screen shows up in win 7, is this normal thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

@shadow: the i7 3770k is an ivy bridge processor mate!

@ad: yup same case for me. What you could do is reduce the post time from 5 seconds to 1 second with full screen disabled.


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> @shadow: the i7 3770k is an ivy bridge processor mate!
> 
> @ad: yup same case for me. What you could do is reduce the post time from 5 seconds to 1 second with full screen disabled.


Full screen disabled for what though?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> Full screen disabled for what though?


Nothing bro - if FS is disabled (the saber logo) then what will appear would be the "standard" POST screen

If you go into the BIOS - you'll see what I mean







!
Also you can enable FAST BOOT

In other news:
RMA with Scan setup.


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nothing bro - if FS is disabled (the saber logo) then what will appear would be the "standard" POST screen
> 
> If you go into the BIOS - you'll see what I mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Also you can enable FAST BOOT
> 
> In other news:
> RMA with Scan setup.


Do you use fast boot? also would it matter I'm running my OS off a SSD if I enabled fast boot how much of a increase is it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I was using fast boot with fs disabled at 1sec.

Os and ssd do count, but the post screen time doesn't relate to os, nor really hdd or ssd.
My ssd runs faster than my hdd when I get to the Windows logo


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I was using fast boot with fs disabled at 1sec.
> 
> Os and ssd do count, but the post screen time doesn't relate to os, nor really hdd or ssd.
> My ssd runs faster than my hdd when I get to the Windows logo


Do you still use it and what category is it under in the bios?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yup, used it and now I'm sending mine back for rma. Should be under the boot section or options (the one to the right hand side)


----------



## johns36j

If you are using Windows 7 do not use the Fast boot feature as it was designed for windows 8! Make sure you disable secure boot as that was also designed for windows 8.


----------



## iARDAs

does fast boot or secure boot really do anything?

I dont want to enter the UEFI and try it than ruin something if those features don't do anything.


----------



## johns36j

They can cause some serious conflict issues as i have witnessed with my Sabertooth z77. Fast boot claims it works on previous OS but it was designed and tested on windows 8. When enabled it was unstable and inconsistent. Secure boot should be on Other OS if your not using Windows 8.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johns36j*
> 
> They can cause some serious conflict issues as i have witnessed with my Sabertooth z77. Fast boot claims it works on previous OS but it was designed and tested on windows 8. When enabled it was unstable and inconsistent. Secure boot should be on Other OS if your not using Windows 8.


I am actually using Win 8 and wondering if I should try.

But yet again I am very happy with the boot time of my OS so I might just not try.


----------



## johns36j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I am actually using Win 8 and wondering if I should try.
> 
> But yet again I am very happy with the boot time of my OS so I might just not try.


If you are not having any issues, I wouldnt change a thing! I havent tested these settings with any other OS then windows 7 so i dont know if it will give any performance increase!


----------



## likethegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadowmilo*
> 
> but dude.... that link is to an IVY bridge cpu... the i7 3770k is a sandy bridge cpu... that overclocking guide is meant for a different cpu. its great and all that the settings worked but.. in theory the guide was made for something completely different..


umm...


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My exact kit is in the QVL - just the board refuses to go below CL9.
> Thing is for me I barely care at it doesn't make a noticeable difference. Unless I'm benching etc. So RAM oc'ing despite it being THE THING back several years ago - now is almost pointless.
> Fo you don't know?
> I de-lidded my CPU.
> Thought I scratched the IMC.
> I put the CPU in another board, and it runs all my 16GB RAM without a problem.
> 
> At first me thinking I screwed my CPU...now it seems like my motherboard magically thought to say no to two slots of RAM...
> I'm reminiscing 2 years ago (pretty much EXACTLY 2 years ago) where my old P5K premium did the same thing.
> Wasted time, money and effort trying to sort my old P5K premium out, but the monkeys at ASUS did nothing to help.
> Now I'm back int he same position, except THIS TIME, it was working before I de-lidded.
> So I'm going to play around with coolers today - and then if that's to no effect, will wait for my i3 to come in.
> If the i3 reports the same problems as my i7....then it is quite obvious what the problem is.
> 
> Once I determine that, I'll try the method listed above, and if that doesn't work, both my Antec 920 & Asus Z77 are being RMA'ed. I've done nothing wrong to either of them.
> 1. Antec 920 - performs about 3-5c better than a STOCK INTEL COOLER
> 2. Z77 board decided to stop working
> 
> Early days so far, but I'm going to thoroughly test it out before jumping to conclusions etc.
> UTTERLY disappointed with ASUS to be honest.
> 
> My mum's PC build doesn't have ASUS on it - and the asus sound card, I didn't even bother touching the official rubbish drivers - and went straight in for the uni-drivers.
> 
> My friend is also building a powerhouse (which i will be assembling) and I advised him AGAINST buying anything ASUS related.
> If I hadn't had such POOR experiences with ASUS I wouldn't have been saying this.
> I ONLY bought this sabertooth for the looks (now thinking of it that's completely useless as it is in a case) and for the BIOS EZ functionality in WINDOWS (but that caused services.msc to report problems and cause 3min hang up times in windows boot)
> Long story short: I advise buying another brand.


Say it ain't so! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Did you take each stick and test one by one?
Have you bought another set of ram just for the hell of it to try?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> None?


I would set the settings manually to what the manufacturer has them rated for.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Hi, MotherFo - Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah, I was just joking about the Hammer-Time thing. I don't have to force the other 4-pin Molex connector at all. I assumed it wouldn't fit because the connector pins looked different. However, it looks like the rounded-side Molex pins will always fit into a Molex square. I have 4 rounded side pins, so they fit just fine, and all the yellow wires were on one side, and the black wires were all on the other side - just like they are supposed to be. Maybe the EATX standard for the other 4 pin connector wasn't finalized yet, and Corsair set up connector to fit regardless of what the EATX standard turned out to be.
> 
> *FYI:* I swapped out my new RAM with another fully functional RAM set from my old Asus P6T-Deluxe V2 motherboard. I saw the exact same BIOS boot flakeyness I saw before. So, the RAM is probably not the culprit.
> 
> So, I purchased a replacement Sabertooth Z77 motherboard today. I am seeing similar boot-up issues to what I saw before with my previous Sabertooth Z77.
> So, I reflashed my BIOS again to 1805, and reset the BIOS settings to "Default". I didn't see anything different.
> I'm using a low-profile G.Skill 2133 DRAM. I set the DRAM timings to what I saw on the card that the memory set came with (11-11-11-28). I am curious about what to set the voltage to, though. The monitored voltages in the BIOS / Thermal Radar are always reading a bit higher than the values I am setting. For example, I set the DRAM voltage to 1.60 V, and it is always reading about 0.02 V higher. If I set the DRAM voltage to 1.58, the monitored voltage is generally at around 1.6 V. Right now, I have the DRAM Volts set to 1.57, and the system seems more stable.
> No, I spent the last few days doing a new Win7x64 from scratch. I'm about 1/4 the way there, and haven't had much sleep lately. The system is pretty much as unstable as it was before I did the reinstall, though. I'm seeing the same USB device errors in Windows I did before. :-(
> 
> I think all of my problems have been hardware-related in some way. I am still hoping I will be able to solve it with good voltage / timing settings in the BIOS. Adjusting these values do have an effect on my system stability.
> Unfortunately, I don't have an "old rig". I am re-using the case, fans, devices, and power supply from my old system that was starting to flake out. I got the Sabertooth before my old system totally died. I don't have all of my business stuff installed in the new setup yet, but I've told my wife and co-workers that my PC Is totally dead right now, and "Don't expect anything from me for a few days, guys."
> Yep!
> Well, I'm using a new motherboard now. I tried working RAM from my old system, and I'm seeing the same stability issues. I don't think it is RAM related.
> 
> I did check the CPU socket ... No bent pins that I could see.


Are you still getting CPU LED lit? Have you tried toning the speed down to something like 1600mhz from 2133? I would set it to the rated voltage. The board might compensate a bit. That should be fine.

Again boot flakiness... are you referring to booting into windows or just posting and and seeing the sabertooth icon?

Having two boards cause the exact same issues, leads me to believe its another component. But again it depends on your answer the question above.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Say it ain't so! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
> 
> Did you take each stick and test one by one?
> Have you bought another set of ram just for the hell of it to try?
> .


I have done everything imaginable to test it.
Long story short - It is screwed somehow - either RAM slots fried, or BIOS related.

I've got it all packed up with my Antec 920, ready to be picked up


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have done everything imaginable to test it.
> Long story short - It is screwed somehow - either RAM slots fried, or BIOS related.
> 
> I've got it all packed up with my Antec 920, ready to be picked up


That stinks. Sorry to hear.

But didn't you have an issue with the memory previously in your build? Where memtest wouldn't detect errors, but then you replaced the ram and it worked?

Perhaps, it was just waiting to happen?

Look on the bright side...you have a de-lidded i7 just waiting for you when it returns!

2nd edit: Did the memok button do anything?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> That stinks. Sorry to hear.
> 
> But didn't you have an issue with the memory previously in your build? Where memtest wouldn't detect errors, but then you replaced the ram and it worked?
> 
> Perhaps, it was just waiting to happen?
> 
> Look on the bright side...you have a de-lidded i7 just waiting for you when it returns!
> 
> 2nd edit: Did the memok button do anything?


I've put the i7 + 16GB ram in my gigabyte build - and it works perfectly fine.
Yes I've already had to RMA RAM.

I'm happy its the board in fact, and doesn't surprise me that ASUS have yet again let me down.
At least my de-lid was successful in the end - IMS was NOT damaged (from what I can tell)


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are you still getting CPU LED lit? Have you tried toning the speed down to something like 1600mhz from 2133? I would set it to the rated voltage. The board might compensate a bit. That should be fine.


Yes, the CPU LED is still lit when things are "stuck".

I have tried running the RAM at 1600 MHz, and I saw no difference. The motherboard would still get "stuck" randomly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Again boot flakiness... are you referring to booting into windows or just posting and and seeing the sabertooth icon?


The answer is actually, "both", and I'll get to that in a second. However, my main concern is that I reset the PC and can't seem to get to the initial BIOS status screen - that indicates more of a hardware issue, since I never get to the O/S. With regards to booting into Windows, I also randomly see something odd: The screen will get stuck on the "Starting Windows" screen (before the glowing Windows logo starts to zoom into the screen. Once the logo appears, everything runs great (usually).

One thing that I have noticed though for both "stuckiness" issues: If I wait a minute or two, the PC usually eventually gets unstuck and boots normally after that. And, by "a minute or two", I mean exactly that. Sometimes, it has taken slightly over 2 minutes before the initial BIOS Status screen shows up, after which the PC will boot up OK. I have also seen the PC get stuck at the "Starting Windows" screen for a little over 90 seconds before the Windows logo appears and the PC boots OK after that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Having two boards cause the exact same issues, leads me to believe its another component. But again it depends on your answer the question above.


Did my answers clear anything up? I'm really at a loss. It sure would make things a lot easier if something actually failed during stress testing. I've run OCCT LinPack 90% memory for an hour, and no failures have ever shown up. The CPU temp gets up to about 60 DegC, but everything runs fine. Also, I haven't seen any sort of "stuckiness" once I have fully booted into Windows (Thank goodness! But, I'm keeping my fingers crossed!)


----------



## cam51037

Hey club members, I'm thinking about buying this board for a 3570k and a GTX 670 Sig2.

Any thoughts or common problems on it, or a better board? Please be honest, the reputation of the club is at stake!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Check your services.msc maybe something is there


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johns36j*
> 
> If you are using Windows 7 do not use the Fast boot feature as it was designed for windows 8! Make sure you disable secure boot as that was also designed for windows 8.


Actually i find that to be false, I used fast boot with Win7 and it was amazing, it was exactly like normal but it booted 17 seconds faster.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Hey club members, I'm thinking about buying this board for a 3570k and a GTX 670 Sig2.
> 
> Any thoughts or common problems on it, or a better board? Please be honest, the reputation of the club is at stake!


This board will be great, unless you plan to overclock or a clock better than 4.4ghz, this board requires more voltage for some reason. anyone else please feel free to correct me if you think im wrong.


----------



## ArtemusV

Hi guys I'm absolutely clueless about overclocking, and I'm not really trying to overclock however. I wanted to put together a solid gaming rig...

My mother board is the Asus Z77, with 32GB of G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) for Memory, and Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz as the CPU.

The BIOS is only clocking the memory at 1333, instead of 1866...I tried reading some answers on different forums about this and it told me to enable X.M.P. mode in the BIOS and the machine fails to post.

Can anyone help with this issue? Thank you for your time!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Yes, the CPU LED is still lit when things are "stuck".
> 
> I have tried running the RAM at 1600 MHz, and I saw no difference. The motherboard would still get "stuck" randomly.


Please bear with me. In your previous post you mention 4-pin molex connected to 8-pin EATX12V socket. Can you take a picture of it & post it here? Do you have another PSU to test?

EDIT: Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 800W has 4+4 pin EATX12V connector. So, I understand now when you said "other 4-pin" in your previous post. However, I still think you should try another PSU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemusV*
> 
> Hi guys I'm absolutely clueless about overclocking, and I'm not really trying to overclock however. I wanted to put together a solid gaming rig...
> 
> My mother board is the Asus Z77, with 32GB of G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) for Memory, and Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz as the CPU.
> 
> The BIOS is only clocking the memory at 1333, instead of 1866...I tried reading some answers on different forums about this and it told me to enable X.M.P. mode in the BIOS and the machine fails to post.
> 
> Can anyone help with this issue? Thank you for your time!


You have to change the DRAM frequency manually - whilst being on (i think) manual mode:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293

Check my BIOS screenshots- might give you an idea.
And yes that's normal for your board to go to 1333mhz as stock.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You have to change the DRAM frequency manually - whilst being on (i think) manual mode:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> 
> Check my BIOS screenshots- might give you an idea.
> And yes that's normal for your board to go to 1333mhz as stock.


I thought z77+ivy was 1600 stock? I know sandy defaults to 1333


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I thought z77+ivy was 1600 stock? I know sandy defaults to 1333


Nop mine defaults to 1333 as well - "optimized defaults"


----------



## ArtemusV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You have to change the DRAM frequency manually - whilst being on (i think) manual mode:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards/800#post_18498293
> 
> Check my BIOS screenshots- might give you an idea.
> And yes that's normal for your board to go to 1333mhz as stock.


Thanks man. I have tried this and the system fails to post, I have to reset the bios jumper in order for it to start up again.


----------



## Wooojciech1983

I have a problem with overclocking Ivy on my Sabertooth Z77 on the latest Bios. Many times after changing the multiplier to 48 the mobo remembers it as a default OS setting and switching back to old value 42 does not work. The Bios shows the new value (42) but when I boot to Windows and check the frequency it turns out that it is still using old multiplier (49). Usually I can't even boot to Windows because the old multiplier is too high for the new voltage to handle it. So to boot I have to increase also the new voltage to the level to handle the old multiplier. The only way to recover is to clear CMOS. After this the mobo correctly sets the new multiplier. Have You also got this problem on the latest Bios. Maybe my mobo is defective.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^a few people have that problem - either clearing CMOS or re-flashing BIOS does the trick.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Yes, the CPU LED is still lit when things are "stuck".
> 
> I have tried running the RAM at 1600 MHz, and I saw no difference. The motherboard would still get "stuck" randomly.
> The answer is actually, "both", and I'll get to that in a second. However, my main concern is that I reset the PC and can't seem to get to the initial BIOS status screen - that indicates more of a hardware issue, since I never get to the O/S. With regards to booting into Windows, I also randomly see something odd: The screen will get stuck on the "Starting Windows" screen (before the glowing Windows logo starts to zoom into the screen. Once the logo appears, everything runs great (usually).
> 
> One thing that I have noticed though for both "stuckiness" issues: If I wait a minute or two, the PC usually eventually gets unstuck and boots normally after that. And, by "a minute or two", I mean exactly that. Sometimes, it has taken slightly over 2 minutes before the initial BIOS Status screen shows up, after which the PC will boot up OK. I have also seen the PC get stuck at the "Starting Windows" screen for a little over 90 seconds before the Windows logo appears and the PC boots OK after that.
> Did my answers clear anything up? I'm really at a loss. It sure would make things a lot easier if something actually failed during stress testing. I've run OCCT LinPack 90% memory for an hour, and no failures have ever shown up. The CPU temp gets up to about 60 DegC, but everything runs fine. Also, I haven't seen any sort of "stuckiness" once I have fully booted into Windows (Thank goodness! But, I'm keeping my fingers crossed!)


If the CPU light is still coming on, then I can't help but think it's the CPU or PSU. If you have run memtest86+ on each stick individually or tried just putting in 1 stick alone and still get RED CPU lights, then there has to be something wrong on that end. You've already gotten a new board.

I'm somewhat ignoring the issues with Windows. I know you don't want to because you need to run your business, but if you can't get stable with simply posting the machine, then you aren't going to be stable in Windows either...

At this point, I would try another power supply as Kizwan mentions below or another processor. I would strip the machine down to bare bones. CPU, 1 stick of ram, power supply, keyboard, dvd drive, and mouse. No video card, no extras plugged in. Reset everything to defaults and configure ram stick to appropriate settings. From there, see what happens with the Red light. If it comes on again start replacing components.

Perhaps Dubbed or Kizwan have some more ideas, but I'm basically out of ideas. Again, if you are getting post issues, those take priority over Windows issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Please bear with me. In your previous post you mention 4-pin molex connected to 8-pin EATX12V socket. Can you take a picture of it & post it here? Do you have another PSU to test?
> 
> EDIT: Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 800W has 4+4 pin EATX12V connector. So, I understand now when you said "other 4-pin" in your previous post. However, I still think you should try another PSU.


I agree with this. This couldn't hurt.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^a few people have that problem - either clearing CMOS or re-flashing BIOS does the trick.


Dubbed didn't you use AI Suite to flash your bios instead of using a flash drive instead?


----------



## Shalston

Hi,

Is there anyway to control the CPU_OPT fan interface? It's 4 pin so I was hoping to. I can't find it in Thermal Radar...would like to rename it too... Thanks.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Dubbed didn't you use AI Suite to flash your bios instead of using a flash drive instead?


Yup I used it to flash my BIOS only.
As for CPU LED -> don't forget it could be the board & pin related too.

I had CPU LED come on for me in a different case: That was me forgetting to plug in the 8 pin CPU power lead, then I booted and it said: "please power the GPU" I was like "oooh not a good day today!" (forgot to plug in the 2x 4 pin PCI-e too) haha


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yup I used it to flash my BIOS only.
> As for CPU LED -> don't forget it could be the board & pin related too.
> 
> I had CPU LED come on for me in a different case: That was me forgetting to plug in the 8 pin CPU power lead, then I booted and it said: "please power the GPU" I was like "oooh not a good day today!" (forgot to plug in the 2x 4 pin PCI-e too) haha


Is there a reason you prefer to do it through software? Most say software is bad and bricks boards versus doing it in the bios via flash drive.

Someone was antsy to start up their rig


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Is there a reason you prefer to do it through software? Most say software is bad and bricks boards versus doing it in the bios via flash drive.
> 
> Someone was antsy to start up their rig


Well basically - USB flashback didn't work half the time (and yes that's renamed with the BREAMER or something software)
So I couldn't trust it.
Plus installing the software and flashing via software was 2x faster than doing it via USB flashback, and I could then check the bios version via the software.

In fact...random question - why didn't my HDMI out work on my motherboard?
I was on stock bios (thus iGPU would have been enabled) and yet it wouldn't output via HDMI.
But on the £100 cheaper Gigabyte board it worked perfectly fine...

Well...left for pick-up tomorrow anyway - last I'll (hopefully) see of that board.

Quite tempted to sell on the sabertooth, been nothing but a pain.

EDIT:
Here's some pictures of my Sabertooth before it got RMA'ed, with picsutres of the size of my MSI GTX 660ti PE OC on it (HUGE thing







) & pictures of the CPU pins vs the ones on my Gigabyte board (identical)


----------



## Brenton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well basically - USB flashback didn't work half the time (and yes that's renamed with the BREAMER or something software)
> So I couldn't trust it.
> Plus installing the software and flashing via software was 2x faster than doing it via USB flashback, and I could then check the bios version via the software.
> 
> In fact...random question - why didn't my HDMI out work on my motherboard?
> I was on stock bios (thus iGPU would have been enabled) and yet it wouldn't output via HDMI.
> But on the £100 cheaper Gigabyte board it worked perfectly fine...
> 
> Well...left for pick-up tomorrow anyway - last I'll (hopefully) see of that board.
> 
> Quite tempted to sell on the sabertooth, been nothing but a pain.


I think he meant to flash the bios by placing it on a usb thumb drive, and then going into bios and flashing it from there. Not via USB flashback.
This method has worked well for me. (better than software method which can cause numerous bios issues)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well basically - USB flashback didn't work half the time (and yes that's renamed with the BREAMER or something software)
> So I couldn't trust it.
> Plus installing the software and flashing via software was 2x faster than doing it via USB flashback, and I could then check the bios version via the software.
> 
> In fact...random question - why didn't my HDMI out work on my motherboard?
> I was on stock bios (thus iGPU would have been enabled) and yet it wouldn't output via HDMI.
> But on the £100 cheaper Gigabyte board it worked perfectly fine...
> 
> Well...left for pick-up tomorrow anyway - last I'll (hopefully) see of that board.
> 
> Quite tempted to sell on the sabertooth, been nothing but a pain.


Well I did remember that you were talking about forcing the PCIE to 3.0 ? I thought the onboard disables itself when the videocard is in as well unless you enable VirtuMVP.
If the ram dimms were bad, that could also affect it.

Sad, but it looks so good in your system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brenton*
> 
> I think he meant to flash the bios by placing it on a usb thumb drive, and then going into bios and flashing it from there. Not via USB flashback.
> This method has worked well for me. (better than software method which can cause numerous bios issues)


Indeed that is what I meant







I had issues with this until I made sure my flash drive was Fat32, then no issues from then on.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Well I did remember that you were talking about forcing the PCIE to 3.0 ? I thought the onboard disables itself when the videocard is in as well unless you enable VirtuMVP.
> If the ram dimms were bad, that could also affect it.


Ah that might explain it - as I had the GFX always slotted in, but had it unplugged.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ah that might explain it - as I had the GFX always slotted in, but had it unplugged.


I'll test with mine when I get home.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Cool cheers. I'll test when I get mine back


----------



## cam51037

Is this a good board to get for the price, or are there better 1155 boards? I've been thinking about getting this one.


----------



## volegradele

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> This board will be great, unless you plan to overclock or a clock better than 4.4ghz, this board requires more voltage for some reason. anyone else please feel free to correct me if you think im wrong.


This board can reach 5GHz without problems, depending on the sample of processor, for normal operation 4.4-4.5GHz will be enough for most users!


----------



## MKHunt

CoreTemp RC4 is useless.

ETA: So is OCN's image hosting.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> CoreTemp RC4 is useless.


Why?







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> ETA: So is OCN's image hosting.


That's pretty good temps under water. What is your ambient temp?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Why?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty good temps under water. What is your ambient temp?


~80F.

Also, MOAR MEMORY BANDWIDTH.


----------



## billythekid2012

my I ask what bios you guys are on is the new one any good
I am on the one before it and I am going to install windows 8 in uefi mode
just need to know if I should up date the bios first

thanks


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> my I ask what bios you guys are on is the new one any good
> I am on the one before it and I am going to install windows 8 in uefi mode
> just need to know if I should up date the bios first
> 
> thanks


I'm on 1805. It works well, just short the CMOS reset jumper after you install it to make sure that no phantom settings get saved.

Also, does anybody have tips on CPU fan control? I have the smart fan set to manual and forced 100% minimum speed but my MCP-35X still tops at 2570RPM when it should go to 4500RPM.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Cool cheers. I'll test when I get mine back


No HDMI out when I have my GFX card installed.







I'm also not going to install VirtuMVP either.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> CoreTemp RC4 is useless.


Why x2?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I'm on 1805. It works well, just short the CMOS reset jumper after you install it to make sure that no phantom settings get saved.
> 
> Also, does anybody have tips on CPU fan control? I have the smart fan set to manual and forced 100% minimum speed but my MCP-35X still tops at 2570RPM when it should go to 4500RPM.


Do you have a different setting in the bios and then a different setting in AI Suite?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> No HDMI out when I have my GFX card installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also not going to install VirtuMVP either.
> Why x2?
> Do you have a different setting in the bios and then a different setting in AI Suite?


@ Coretemp. Look at the coretemp numbers then look at the CPU-Z and AI suite numbers. Coretemp is HILARIOUSLY off. It's not even close. No matter my voltage, CoreTemp reads 1.3661V

When I initially flashed 1805 the settings would not take when changed in BIOS (I use Ai suite only for monitoring) but a CMOS clear fixed that. It's a somewhat common thing.

Also TurboV evo always throws a .dll error and crashes AI suite when I try to use it. Not sure why.

ETA: No HDMI or DP out when my 590 is installed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Cheers for the confirmation lads.
But one doesn't need Virtu installed in order to get HDMI to work.

With the GFX is out, it should work if I'm not mistaken?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> @ Coretemp. Look at the coretemp numbers then look at the CPU-Z and AI suite numbers. Coretemp is HILARIOUSLY off. It's not even close. No matter my voltage, CoreTemp reads 1.3661V
> 
> When I initially flashed 1805 the settings would not take when changed in BIOS (I use Ai suite only for monitoring) but a CMOS clear fixed that. It's a somewhat common thing.
> 
> Also TurboV evo always throws a .dll error and crashes AI suite when I try to use it. Not sure why.
> 
> ETA: No HDMI or DP out when my 590 is installed.


I thought I read about people getting strange numbers in other monitoring programs if AI Suite was running.
I prefer hw monitor myself.

The cpu temp different is expected though because of which sensor each software grabs from.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Cheers for the confirmation lads.
> But one doesn't need Virtu installed in order to get HDMI to work.
> 
> With the GFX is out, it should work if I'm not mistaken?


Correct. It should. It's then usually a good idea to install the Intel video driver as well, but that's assuming you aren't going to put in a discrete video card. Good for your mum or HTPC


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Correct. It should. It's then usually a good idea to install the Intel video driver as well, but that's assuming you aren't going to put in a discrete video card. Good for your mum or HTPC


Indeed - also any difference between DVI and HDMI?
I know both are digital signals - so I stuck to DVI

Considering I don't need sound to be outputted via the HDMI.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Indeed - also any difference between DVI and HDMI?
> I know both are digital signals - so I stuck to DVI
> 
> Considering I don't need sound to be outputted via the HDMI.


You answered your own question







Only if you want digital sound as well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ok thanks. Just needed to confirm with a knowledgeable person







!


----------



## majnu

I'm on the SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1708

When I insert my USB device with Win98 as I'm trying to use NVflash it constantly freezes my machine.

I've tried:

- 3 different USB's (doesn't matter if an o/s is on or not)
- Different usb ports

It still does the same.

Any ideas????


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> I'm on the SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1708
> 
> When I insert my USB device with Win98 as I'm trying to use NVflash it constantly freezes my machine.
> 
> I've tried:
> 
> - 3 different USB's (doesn't matter if an o/s is on or not)
> - Different usb ports
> 
> It still does the same.
> 
> Any ideas????


Only this machine? Does it freeze others? Do other flash drives work?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Only this machine? Does it freeze others? Do other flash drives work?


In boot settings do you have legacy compatibility modes enabled?


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> In boot settings do you have legacy compatibility modes enabled?


Thanks It's sorted now.

I changed it to what's highlighted in the pic from Legacy opROM first and now I can boot from USB.











edit - actually the problem was my mechanical keyboard. When I unplugged it then I was able to boot. Strange. It's a Noppoo choc mini


----------



## Davitz

hm, gonna switch to win 8 methinks. Noob question but how exactly would I flash the bios on my z77 sabertooth to the latest that supports win8?

Ignore that last part, I figured it out and shall now facepalm in a corner of how silly that question was.


----------



## ihtc

I just got this board for my new setup. I haven't had luck with builds lately (last summer built a machine with the z77 pro thunderbolt board, had freezing issues and corsair h100 issues), Anyhow let me list my specs.

Corsair 500R Carbide case
Corsair AX850 PSU
GSkill DDR3 1600 16GB Ram kit (f3-12800cl9q-16gbxl100% from the QVL)
Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
EVGA GeForce GT 640 2GB PCI Express video card (dual dvi outputs for my 2 LCDS)
LITE-ON Bluray Player/Burner
Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD
Intel i7-3770K CPU 3.5Ghz
Corsair H100i Cooler

Now, my needs are a reliable fast computer for work, heavy database, financial models, and some fun stuff like photoshop lightroom, etc. No gaming. Im not sure if i should have gotten a different setup or not. I will NOT overclock and was sure i picked compatible parts here.

Issue 1) Corsair PSU had to be RMAed, ok got that done - FIXED.

Issue 2) Corsair H100i the fan pushes hard on the ATX 8pin connector, cant even screw in one screw. Thought this case was designed for this cooler, might just be this board size and placement of atx 8. - not so sure its a problem yet

Issue 3) Sabertooth USB 3 header and this case is no good (some one showed pics last year in this thread) - Pending fix of me dremeling the metal down a bit

MAIN ISSUE: I get the CPU RED light . I tried clearing CMOS, Ive swaped PSUs , reseated the CPU. One or two times i got video out and saw it goto insert bootable media. Ok thought it was a fluke but nope turn it off and back on, same issues. I will try a bios update tonight and booting the board outside the case otherwise RMA time







..

Maybe i can go for a different setup. I need reliable, reliable, reliable. So not asking for much ehre. Building using good parts and stock specs and Windows 7 PRo, has to be a way to get a reliable fast machine.. I thought i picked good quality parts and paid a good penny but frustration is all i got so far. I will be running windows 7 Pro as my OS. This board seemed like a good fit for reliable but not so sure now.

Any suggestions for a different build ill return this to newegg or should i just get one RMA board and hope for the best. I have heard some people got 3-4 RMAs .. Thanks for listening and for advice!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> I just got this board for my new setup. I haven't had luck with builds lately (last summer built a machine with the z77 pro thunderbolt board, had freezing issues and corsair h100 issues), Anyhow let me list my specs.
> 
> Corsair 500R Carbide case
> Corsair AX850 PSU
> GSkill DDR3 1600 16GB Ram kit (f3-12800cl9q-16gbxl100% from the QVL)
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
> EVGA GeForce GT 640 2GB PCI Express video card (dual dvi outputs for my 2 LCDS)
> LITE-ON Bluray Player/Burner
> Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD
> Intel i7-3770K CPU 3.5Ghz
> Corsair H100i Cooler
> 
> Now, my needs are a reliable fast computer for work, heavy database, financial models, and some fun stuff like photoshop lightroom, etc. No gaming. Im not sure if i should have gotten a different setup or not. I will NOT overclock and was sure i picked compatible parts here.
> 
> Issue 1) Corsair PSU had to be RMAed, ok got that done - FIXED.
> 
> Issue 2) Corsair H100i the fan pushes hard on the ATX 8pin connector, cant even screw in one screw. Thought this case was designed for this cooler, might just be this board size and placement of atx 8. - not so sure its a problem yet
> 
> Issue 3) Sabertooth USB 3 header and this case is no good (some one showed pics last year in this thread) - Pending fix of me dremeling the metal down a bit
> 
> MAIN ISSUE: I get the CPU RED light . I tried clearing CMOS, Ive swaped PSUs , reseated the CPU. One or two times i got video out and saw it goto insert bootable media. Ok thought it was a fluke but nope turn it off and back on, same issues. I will try a bios update tonight and booting the board outside the case otherwise RMA time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Maybe i can go for a different setup. I need reliable, reliable, reliable. So not asking for much ehre. Building using good parts and stock specs and Windows 7 PRo, has to be a way to get a reliable fast machine.. I thought i picked good quality parts and paid a good penny but frustration is all i got so far. I will be running windows 7 Pro as my OS. This board seemed like a good fit for reliable but not so sure now.
> 
> Any suggestions for a different build ill return this to newegg or should i just get one RMA board and hope for the best. I have heard some people got 3-4 RMAs .. Thanks for listening and for advice!


am no expert on this case but looking at some pic's of it you shouldn't have any problems with the h100i fittings,normally these h100i fits at the top of the case so the air blows up and out

your set up is a good one. the only thing that i can think off is that you might got some bent cpu pins or it might be becouse your atx 8 pin cornector not seated right.
just for a test remove the h100i and fans off the case so they are loose and then make sure the atx 8 pin is seated and then start the pc up and see what happens

if the problem still there then rma


----------



## ihtc

yes i need to RMA, tested everything including booting with board just on static paper with cpu and one stick of ram only. I am going to pick one up locally at JR music world and hope newegg will just take this one back ive wasted way to much time on this already. the H100i fits the case, its the mobo that has the atx 8 pin connection right near the top and the fan is in the way. Since im not OCing i regret not just getting the H80i, though im sure i can run this one with 1 fan. Thanks


----------



## AzJazz

OK ... I have a question: I got some new RAM for my Sabertooth. It looked like that may have been the cause of my stability issues - My system was booted over a dozen times very reliably for a little while.

I started to lower my DRAM Voltage and my PCH voltage a little bit in the BIOS, since the monitors were reading higher than the specifications. DRAM was reading 1.68 Volts (set at 1.65) and PCH was reading 1.8 (set at 1.5) volts.

I lowered my DRAM voltage to 1.63 and PCH to 1.3 Volts - And now the system monitor read 1.65 Volts for DRAM & PCH was 1.5.

Then, my system started get hung during boot-up into the BIOS again.

So, I reset the voltage settings to 1.65 and 1.5, and the voltage monitors read high again.

I'm still seeing my system get hung during the boot into BIOS again - just like it used to with my old RAM. :-(

Did I just damage my new RAM? Or, is it just a coincidence that the system was booting OK for a few times when I first put the new RAM in?

Thanks,

AzJazz


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> OK ... I have a question: I got some new RAM for my Sabertooth. It looked like that may have been the cause of my stability issues - My system was booted over a dozen times very reliably for a little while.
> 
> I started to lower my DRAM Voltage and my PCH voltage a little bit in the BIOS, since the monitors were reading higher than the specifications. DRAM was reading 1.68 Volts (set at 1.65) and PCH was reading 1.8 (set at 1.5) volts.
> 
> I lowered my DRAM voltage to 1.63 and PCH to 1.3 Volts - And now the system monitor read 1.65 Volts for DRAM & PCH was 1.5.
> 
> Then, my system started get hung during boot-up into the BIOS again.
> 
> So, I reset the voltage settings to 1.65 and 1.5, and the voltage monitors read high again.
> 
> I'm still seeing my system get hung during the boot into BIOS again - just like it used to with my old RAM. :-(
> 
> Did I just damage my new RAM? Or, is it just a coincidence that the system was booting OK for a few times when I first put the new RAM in?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AzJazz


Have you tried using the XMP Profile?


----------



## cam51037

Got my board tonight, as well as a Hyper 212, 3570k, and a 750W Cooler Master PSU two finish off two builds as follows:
Dedicated Folding (Team Competition) PC:
i7 2600k 4.4 GHz
Hyper 212+
MSI Z68 MA-ED55
2 GB RAM
8 GB USB (linux booting ftw)
Rosewill Blackbone Case
750W Cooler Master PSU

Main PC:
i5 3570k
ASUS Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard
6 GB RAM
Hyper 212 Evo
Thor V2 Case
2x 1 TB Seagate's (RAID 1)
120 GB SSD

Finished the folding rig, it's chugging away at 4.4 GHz for around 30-45k PPD, which is pretty good IMO on 8 cores. I'm in the process of putting the main rig together, should be good to go sometime tomorrow *if* everything works right. Putting on the Hyper 212 right now. I had so many PC parts lying around while I was working on the two PC's, it was a ridiculous amount.


----------



## jktmas

canm, why do you have such a big power supply on your raspberry pi? isnt it a bit overkill lol 3.5w!
all kidding aside, i love those raspberry pi's


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> Have you tried using the XMP Profile?


Yes, I'm using the XMP profile now. I tried using the XMP profile with my old memory modules, but the system was very unstable. I lowered the monitored voltage values on my old modules to bring them down to the recommended values, and my system became more stable (though, not perfect). I planned on doing the same thing this time to adjust the new module's monitored voltage values, but I'm concerned that the new modules may now be damaged as a result.

Once the system boots up, everything works great - I can stress-test the new memory without any failures.

Maybe the consecutive series of good boots was just a coincidence. I'd be very unhappy if the new modules are damaged. :-(

Should I be modifying other values besides the DRAM voltage and PCH Voltage?

AzJazz


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> I just got this board for my new setup. I haven't had luck with builds lately (last summer built a machine with the z77 pro thunderbolt board, had freezing issues and corsair h100 issues), Anyhow let me list my specs.
> 
> Corsair 500R Carbide case
> Corsair AX850 PSU
> GSkill DDR3 1600 16GB Ram kit (f3-12800cl9q-16gbxl100% from the QVL)
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
> EVGA GeForce GT 640 2GB PCI Express video card (dual dvi outputs for my 2 LCDS)
> LITE-ON Bluray Player/Burner
> Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD
> Intel i7-3770K CPU 3.5Ghz
> Corsair H100i Cooler
> 
> Now, my needs are a reliable fast computer for work, heavy database, financial models, and some fun stuff like photoshop lightroom, etc. No gaming. Im not sure if i should have gotten a different setup or not. I will NOT overclock and was sure i picked compatible parts here.
> 
> Issue 1) Corsair PSU had to be RMAed, ok got that done - FIXED.
> 
> Issue 2) Corsair H100i the fan pushes hard on the ATX 8pin connector, cant even screw in one screw. Thought this case was designed for this cooler, might just be this board size and placement of atx 8. - not so sure its a problem yet
> 
> Issue 3) Sabertooth USB 3 header and this case is no good (some one showed pics last year in this thread) - Pending fix of me dremeling the metal down a bit
> 
> MAIN ISSUE: I get the CPU RED light . I tried clearing CMOS, Ive swaped PSUs , reseated the CPU. One or two times i got video out and saw it goto insert bootable media. Ok thought it was a fluke but nope turn it off and back on, same issues. I will try a bios update tonight and booting the board outside the case otherwise RMA time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Maybe i can go for a different setup. I need reliable, reliable, reliable. So not asking for much ehre. Building using good parts and stock specs and Windows 7 PRo, has to be a way to get a reliable fast machine.. I thought i picked good quality parts and paid a good penny but frustration is all i got so far. I will be running windows 7 Pro as my OS. This board seemed like a good fit for reliable but not so sure now.
> 
> Any suggestions for a different build ill return this to newegg or should i just get one RMA board and hope for the best. I have heard some people got 3-4 RMAs .. Thanks for listening and for advice!


I would need to see a pic of the USB header issue.

I like that you tested with 1 stick only. Strip it down to barebones. CPU, 1 stick of memory, video card, dvd drive, keyboard and mouse. Have you ran memtest on your ram?
Are you running the latest bios?

Have you considered an 8pin extension cable? Amazon has them by nzxt. That might help you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> OK ... I have a question: I got some new RAM for my Sabertooth. It looked like that may have been the cause of my stability issues - My system was booted over a dozen times very reliably for a little while.
> 
> I started to lower my DRAM Voltage and my PCH voltage a little bit in the BIOS, since the monitors were reading higher than the specifications. DRAM was reading 1.68 Volts (set at 1.65) and PCH was reading 1.8 (set at 1.5) volts.
> 
> I lowered my DRAM voltage to 1.63 and PCH to 1.3 Volts - And now the system monitor read 1.65 Volts for DRAM & PCH was 1.5.
> 
> Then, my system started get hung during boot-up into the BIOS again.
> 
> So, I reset the voltage settings to 1.65 and 1.5, and the voltage monitors read high again.
> 
> I'm still seeing my system get hung during the boot into BIOS again - just like it used to with my old RAM. :-(
> 
> Did I just damage my new RAM? Or, is it just a coincidence that the system was booting OK for a few times when I first put the new RAM in?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AzJazz


AzJazz, you are really confusing me man. Did you try anything we've suggested to you in previous posts? New Cpu? Different PSU? This sounds like you are on your third set of ram?

Why are you messing with PCH voltages?

I doubt you damaged the ram, but that is pretty high volts for it.

In other news, Dubbed inspired me to go out to Microcenter and get the i7-3770k.









I'm going to sell my i5-3570k to a buddy of mine that wants to build a new rig.


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Yes, I'm using the XMP profile now. I tried using the XMP profile with my old memory modules, but the system was very unstable. I lowered the monitored voltage values on my old modules to bring them down to the recommended values, and my system became more stable (though, not perfect). I planned on doing the same thing this time to adjust the new module's monitored voltage values, but I'm concerned that the new modules may now be damaged as a result.
> 
> Once the system boots up, everything works great - I can stress-test the new memory without any failures.
> 
> Maybe the consecutive series of good boots was just a coincidence. I'd be very unhappy if the new modules are damaged. :-(
> 
> Should I be modifying other values besides the DRAM voltage and PCH Voltage?
> 
> AzJazz


If you can get windows to boot (try using memok on the mobo if you havent already), run memtest. If you get any errors, it's most likely that a stick of your ram is fried.

If you had bluescreens get bluescreen view and right click the bsod and select google search. Should bring up results pointing in the right direction.

If you can , try another psu that you have, if it's just refusing to post or blackscreening it could be an issue with components not getting proper voltages.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> canm, why do you have such a big power supply on your raspberry pi? isnt it a bit overkill lol 3.5w!
> all kidding aside, i love those raspberry pi's


:O.

Seeing as I had my PC pulling around 460-500W awhile ago 3.5W isn't too bad, but it actually amazingly gets fairly warm with it's cooling. (passive)

I sort of want to try putting an ice pack on it to cool it but then I thought water+electronics=bad, lol. But I've done some pretty neat stuff with it, when I get my main computer back up I'm going to install some ROM's on it, because I'm using an old emulator OS. (Chameleon) But it's such a cute little box.


----------



## ihtc

MotherFo

Thanks for the reply. I will get some pics up of the USB header. I found them online from someone else but can't seem to find the pics again. This morning I am going to JR music world to get a new sabertooth board as I've exhausted all options on this one. I will hope newegg will take back without a hassle, they should I have preferred account and spent a lot of money with them recently. I have also decided the H100i is overkill if I'm not over clocking and will request a refund for that also. It's just too tight with the case and mobo combo. Probably end up getting a nice $30 fan instead at some point. So hopefully new board solves problem and i'll have a nice easy time today getting up and running.

Pics will come on the USB header when I get it back up. I can kinda squeeze hard and get the header in. It's on an angle. You will see when I replace the board.

So with no overclock and a basic gt640 video card a stock Intel retail box cpu fan should be fine for the time being I think. Thanks everyone for help so far and i'll keep you posted on the outcome. I want this board most of all my components. Not gonna let a bad apple ruin it as there's tons of happy customers with this board.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Fo, why did you go for the i7?
Ht is only useful for certain applications.


----------



## ihtc

I found a picture of the 500r and z77 sabertooth. See how it's angled a bit. I think using dremel to sand down metal a tad or make a Grove for the cable. This shouldn't be too hard as it only need to be sanded down just a tad to have a more relaxed fit.

He seems to have an h100. Hard to see in the pic but that fan is so close. To the 8pin atx it actually hovers over it a bit. The H100i I think the fans are a tad thicker and the tubing certainly is. But i boxed the H100i back up will revisit cooling later. I will add two 120 fans as exhaust for the time being.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

EDIT:

PICS when i had the h100i in the case. Hard to see but since you guys know where the 8pin atx goes on this board you get the jist of it. The cable is mashed down by that fan and also couldnt even screw the last screw in on the fan.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> I just got this board for my new setup. I haven't had luck with builds lately (last summer built a machine with the z77 pro thunderbolt board, had freezing issues and corsair h100 issues), Anyhow let me list my specs.
> Now, my needs are a reliable fast computer for work, heavy database, financial models, and some fun stuff like photoshop lightroom, etc. No gaming. Im not sure if i should have gotten a different setup or not. I will NOT overclock and was sure i picked compatible parts here.
> Any suggestions for a different build ill return this to newegg or should i just get one RMA board and hope for the best. I have heard some people got 3-4 RMAs .. Thanks for listening and for advice!


Few things:
-For financial things I would suggest up to 32GB ram
-i5 could have done you fine, i7 was an overkill
-CPU LED is one of few things:
1. Not connected on either end
2. Not enough power (PSU)
3. CPU pins on asus motherboard
4. CPU fried/not working

-I agree you shouldn't have gotten the h100i -> something like the antec 620 would have done you more than fine for STOCK clocks and NO OC'ing.
To me if you can't sort out that CPU LED via those mentioned do-able steps above, then you're going to have to either RMA the PSU or the motherboard...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> OK ... I have a question: I got some new RAM for my Sabertooth. It looked like that may have been the cause of my stability issues - My system was booted over a dozen times very reliably for a little while.
> AzJazz


I don't know why you are touching those voltages.
Just change dram voltage and timings and that's it - unless you KNOW what you're doing (not insinuating you aren't but still)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> 
> 
> I found a picture of the 500r and z77 sabertooth. See how it's angled a bit. I think using dremel to sand down metal a tad or make a Grove for the cable. This shouldn't be too hard as it only need to be sanded down just a tad to have a more relaxed fit.
> ]


I must say that's stupid case design right there.
I would be also tempted to flip the rad of the h100i in that picture.


----------



## ihtc

Hey thanks for the reply. I'm on my way to get another z77 can't wait for newegg rma. Have to get the system up today. I'll return the newegg one if that turns out to be the problem. Will use stock Intel fan for now while I decide on cooling. Ram ill upgrade later if I feel it's needed. It's my own fault I jumped the gun without enough research on this build. I'll keep everyone posted. What a great helpful group you all are!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> Hey thanks for the reply. I'm on my way to get another z77 can't wait for newegg rma. Have to get the system up today. I'll return the newegg one if that turns out to be the problem. Will use stock Intel fan for now while I decide on cooling. Ram ill upgrade later if I feel it's needed. It's my own fault I jumped the gun without enough research on this build. I'll keep everyone posted. What a great helpful group you all are!


Z77's are reliable, but I think you've been unlucky - like me with my build.
Keep us posted on what happens.

And yes stock intel fan is a great way to test. Easy installation easy removal - no mounting pressures etc - even mount too.


----------



## DeadlyPaperBag

Happy to see so many fellow Z77 sabertooth owners!








I must say i am very happy with mine so far, and i've had it for about 5 months now.

Anyway, i've been diggin through the posts in this thread, but i couldnt find any answers to my question:
Does a EK-FC CSQ bridge fit with this motherboard? like the dual 3slot version (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17486/ex-blc-1352/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_Plexi.html#blank)


----------



## ihtc

Ok, just got back from JR music world with another Z77 Sabertooth. Booted it on workbench, booted right up. So it was indeed a DOA motherboard. I will be calling newegg tomorrow to request a straight refund of their DOA board as well as a refund for the h100i.

As far as cooling current plan is:

1) Stock intel retail box fan








2) I picked up 2 AF140 quiet edition 140mm fans which i will mount in the top of the 500r (where i previous had the radiator) I will mount as exhaust to push hot air out, unless i should reverse it, thoughts?
3) I plan on a Coolmaster 212 120MM CPU cooler for $30, should do just fine for my uses.

I will report back once the system is all put together as im installing Windows 7 Pro 64

Thanks again for all the support!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> Ok, just got back from JR music world with another Z77 Sabertooth. Booted it on workbench, booted right up. So it was indeed a DOA motherboard. I will be calling newegg tomorrow to request a straight refund of their DOA board as well as a refund for the h100i.
> 
> As far as cooling current plan is:
> 
> 1) Stock intel retail box fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) I picked up 2 AF140 quiet edition 140mm fans which i will mount in the top of the 500r (where i previous had the radiator) I will mount as exhaust to push hot air out, unless i should reverse it, thoughts?
> 3) I plan on a Coolmaster 212 120MM CPU cooler for $30, should do just fine for my uses.
> 
> I will report back once the system is all put together as im installing Windows 7 Pro 64
> 
> Thanks again for all the support!


212+ is plenty fine for stock speeds and will cool well. It'll probably suffice for a small overclock, too. I have one cooling an unlocked and overclocked hexcore AMD.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> Ok, just got back from JR music world with another Z77 Sabertooth. Booted it on workbench, booted right up. So it was indeed a DOA motherboard. I will be calling newegg tomorrow to request a straight refund of their DOA board as well as a refund for the h100i.
> 
> As far as cooling current plan is:
> 
> 1) Stock intel retail box fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) I picked up 2 AF140 quiet edition 140mm fans which i will mount in the top of the 500r (where i previous had the radiator) I will mount as exhaust to push hot air out, unless i should reverse it, thoughts?
> 3) I plan on a Coolmaster 212 120MM CPU cooler for $30, should do just fine for my uses.
> 
> I will report back once the system is all put together as im installing Windows 7 Pro 64
> 
> Thanks again for all the support!


On an i7 - the 212 should be more than enough - however if you push it through quite a lot of financial statistic calculations and simulations - you might want to go liquid or a better air cooler.

As for the motherboard -> glad to see Asus are keeping up their great rate of bad boards (lol) at least you got DOA and within 30 days to return.
I would also return the h100i - for one simple reason: You don't need that cooling, could save some money on the build AND two fans, through the rad on load = noisy

AF140's are a great choice - I have them myself and absolutely love them
Also heat rises - so yes hot air from the TOP and back (to some extent) is always a good idea


----------



## ihtc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> On an i7 - the 212 should be more than enough - however if you push it through quite a lot of financial statistic calculations and simulations - you might want to go liquid or a better air cooler.
> 
> As for the motherboard -> glad to see Asus are keeping up their great rate of bad boards (lol) at least you got DOA and within 30 days to return.
> I would also return the h100i - for one simple reason: You don't need that cooling, could save some money on the build AND two fans, through the rad on load = noisy
> 
> AF140's are a great choice - I have them myself and absolutely love them
> Also heat rises - so yes hot air from the TOP and back (to some extent) is always a good idea


nears the top of the board i only have one CHA fan plug and no splitter, can i use one in there and the other in cpu opt. fan port is a fan port right?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> nears the top of the board i only have one CHA fan plug and no splitter, can i use one in there and the other in cpu opt. fan port is a fan port right?


Hmm I don't THINK you can control fan OPT via the motherboard.
But you have 2 fan header chassis places:
1 -> by the RAM
1 -> by the CPU header & fan OPT

My setup is like THIS (one of the AF140's at the bottom has a 30cm extender as one of my af140's is situated on top, the other on the side panel)


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hmm I don't THINK you can control fan OPT via the motherboard.
> But you have 2 fan header chassis places:
> 1 -> by the RAM
> 1 -> by the CPU header & fan OPT
> 
> My setup is like THIS (one of the AF140's at the bottom has a 30cm extender as one of my af140's is situated on top, the other on the side panel)


Oh it's possible. Easy, even.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

One does not simply use Asus fan control via AI suite 2


----------



## ihtc

Yea i didnt see that at first but i did actually use the one by the ram and the one by the cpu, the CHA fan. and one on the bottom fo the rear exhaust fan that came with my case. I need a mlex to sata adapter, sucks to plug in an entire molex chain to my PSU just for the the side and front case fans.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> MotherFo
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I will get some pics up of the USB header. I found them online from someone else but can't seem to find the pics again. This morning I am going to JR music world to get a new sabertooth board as I've exhausted all options on this one. I will hope newegg will take back without a hassle, they should I have preferred account and spent a lot of money with them recently. I have also decided the H100i is overkill if I'm not over clocking and will request a refund for that also. It's just too tight with the case and mobo combo. Probably end up getting a nice $30 fan instead at some point. So hopefully new board solves problem and i'll have a nice easy time today getting up and running.
> 
> Pics will come on the USB header when I get it back up. I can kinda squeeze hard and get the header in. It's on an angle. You will see when I replace the board.
> 
> So with no overclock and a basic gt640 video card a stock Intel retail box cpu fan should be fine for the time being I think. Thanks everyone for help so far and i'll keep you posted on the outcome. I want this board most of all my components. Not gonna let a bad apple ruin it as there's tons of happy customers with this board.


Ah, I saw the pics, yeah that stinks. I looked for some extenders, but unfortunately, I don't think they will work for you. Have you reached out to corsair at all? I'm surprised there is not more posts about this issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Fo, why did you go for the i7?
> Ht is only useful for certain applications.


Because I wanted to be moar like Dubbed! Naw, like I said, my buddy wants to build a machine, so it helps him out. I only ended up spending $100 in the end. Also, it runs cooler, overclocks higher, etc. It's using less volts than my i5 was! I haven't tried to overclock it yet though. I also do Photoshop, Maya, video editing in addition to gaming.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> One does not simply use Asus fan control via AI suite 2


The profiles provided by fan control are also available in the BIOS. ThermalRadar just lets you see how each preset is configured.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> The profiles provided by fan control are also available in the BIOS. ThermalRadar just lets you see how each preset is configured.


I can't remember seeing fan OPT:
You have:
-CPU x1 (cpu fan header)
-CHAS x4
-ASS x2
-ASS fan off time


----------



## cam51037

I have a problem here guys:

When I booted my PC up it worked great, then I got a CPU fan error. The CPU fan is put in correctly (double checked) and it's spinning. Upon entering the BIOS fan speed page and stuff, here's what it looks like: 

Any idea how to bump the fan RPM up to say 1k-1.5k or so so it'll boot?

On a positive note though, my RAID array transferred successfully.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I can't remember seeing fan OPT:
> You have:
> -CPU x1 (cpu fan header)
> -CHAS x4
> -ASS x2
> -ASS fan off time





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> I have a problem here guys:
> 
> When I booted my PC up it worked great, then I got a CPU fan error. The CPU fan is put in correctly (double checked) and it's spinning. Upon entering the BIOS fan speed page and stuff, here's what it looks like:
> 
> Any idea how to bump the fan RPM up to say 1k-1.5k or so so it'll boot?
> 
> On a positive note though, my RAID array transferred successfully.


Look at the pics above and adjust your CPU fan accordingly.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> I have a problem here guys:
> 
> On a positive note though, my RAID array transferred successfully.


as said above by MK - hoever what you have to do is also set the CPU FAN to IGNORE (ie not 500RPM warning)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Look at the pics above and adjust your CPU fan accordingly.


Sorry but CPU OPT isn't the same as ASST.
Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> as said above by MK - hoever what you have to do is also set the CPU FAN to IGNORE (ie not 500RPM warning)
> Sorry but CPU OPT isn't the same as ASST.
> Correct me if I'm wrong.


The options are identical (except the stop). In pic 1 you can see part of my CPU fan settings.

ETA: The easiest way would be to enable Q-fan control, set minimum CPU fan speed and use the turbo preset.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> The options are identical (except the stop). In pic 1 you can see part of my CPU fan settings.


Yeah but..CPU fan settings related to CPU fan header settings...


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah but..CPU fan settings related to CPU fan header settings...


Yes. I'm not sure what you are saying. CPU header is controlled by CPU fan settings, Assist fan headers are controlled by the Assist fan settings.....


----------



## cam51037

Fixed the problem! +Rep to both of you. Thanks for the advice!

Now my problem is when Windows did boot from an existing install it BSODed instantly. Running Windows repair ATM.

Edit: dang it, Windows won't start. It freezes on the loading screen then BSOD's. :/ Any ideas? I can't even see the error it flashes by so fast.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Fixed the problem! +Rep to both of you. Thanks for the advice!
> 
> Now my problem is when Windows did boot from an existing install it BSODed instantly. Running Windows repair ATM.
> 
> Edit: dang it, Windows won't start. It freezes on the loading screen then BSOD's. :/ Any ideas? I can't even see the error it flashes by so fast.


Check the SATA config. I bet the previous install was on an IDE setting, the default setting on the sabertooth is AHCI though.

ETA: Here's how to change the windows install to AHCI once you can boot http://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/987378-how-to-switch-from-ide-to-ahci-without-repairingreinstalling-windows/


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Check the SATA config. I bet the previous install was on an IDE setting, the default setting on the sabertooth is AHCI though.
> 
> ETA: Here's how to change the windows install to AHCI once you can boot http://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/987378-how-to-switch-from-ide-to-ahci-without-repairingreinstalling-windows/


Any ideas that might be preventing the system from actually booting into the log on page? I can access system recovery mode, instead of starting Windows as well.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Any ideas that might be preventing the system from actually booting into the log on page? I can access system recovery mode, instead of starting Windows as well.


If the SATA mode does not match the windows install, it will bsod at the windows logo.

GO into the SATA settings in the BIOS and change the intel controller from AHCI to IDE and try booting.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> If the SATA mode does not match the windows install, it will bsod at the windows logo.


That's exactly what happened. So do I change the mode to IDE in the BIOS, and then try to boot?

Edit: Tried that, BSODed again while booting in IDE mode. Looking like I might have to reinstall Windows. :/


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> That's exactly what happened. So do I change the mode to IDE in the BIOS, and then try to boot?


Yup! Then follow the instreuctions in my link above to change it to AHCI. AHCI allows hotplugging and full SSD performance. IDE will bottleneck an SSD like crazy.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Yup! Then follow the instreuctions in my link above to change it to AHCI. AHCI allows hotplugging and full SSD performance. IDE will bottleneck an SSD like crazy.


Just bumping this, I edited my previous post because IDE mode didn't work for me either.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Just bumping this, I edited my previous post because IDE mode didn't work for me either.


Yup, reinstall that thang. Reinstalling is good anyway, keeps it quick.

W7 is also incredibly picky about hardware changes.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Fixed the problem! +Rep to both of you. Thanks for the advice!
> 
> Now my problem is when Windows did boot from an existing install it BSODed instantly. Running Windows repair ATM.
> 
> Edit: dang it, Windows won't start. It freezes on the loading screen then BSOD's. :/ Any ideas? I can't even see the error it flashes by so fast.


Wait a different build?
If the motherboard was different - that would explain why windows is having problems.
Could you explain what you mean by the different build bro?

EDIT:
Yes you will get straight BSOD's if you installed on IDE and now have move to AHCI
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Yes. I'm not sure what you are saying. CPU header is controlled by CPU fan settings, Assist fan headers are controlled by the Assist fan settings.....


Ok quite simple:
CPU OPT = not controlled via bios
CPU HEADER = controlled by first option in the bios
CHASSIS FANS = controlled by next 4 options in the bios
ASSIST FAN = controlled by the following 2 options in the bios


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Wait a different build?
> If the motherboard was different - that would explain why windows is having problems.
> Could you explain what you mean by the different build bro?
> Ok quite simple:
> CPU OPT = not controlled via bios
> CPU HEADER = controlled by first option in the bios
> CHASSIS FANS = controlled by next 4 options in the bios
> ASSIST FAN = controlled by the following 2 options in the bios


ah, opt is a different header, I thought you meant _options_







Haaaaah I see what you were saying now.

He joined the mobo club recently, so I'm saying different build. W7 will have issue, but W8 has no problems with motherboard changes (I went gigabyte Z68 to Sabertooth Z77 and W8 saw the change, went through hardware setup in pre-boot, and reactivated itself).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> ah, opt is a different header, I thought you meant _options_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haaaaah I see what you were saying now.
> 
> He joined the mobo club recently, so I'm saying different build. W7 will have issue, but W8 has no problems with motherboard changes (I went gigabyte Z68 to Sabertooth Z77 and W8 saw the change, went through hardware setup in pre-boot, and reactivated itself).


wow that's really good of win8!
But does it seriously eliminate all problems? As I thought the installation was kind of "embedded" on the hardware you had

Lol and the confusion though








So yeah long story short CPU OPT can be controlled via the AI Suite 2 but NOT the bios. At least from what I tested and understand from my bios playing around.
My understanding of CPU OPT is it being a 2nd fan for the CPU cooler.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> wow that's really good of win8!
> But does it seriously eliminate all problems? As I thought the installation was kind of "embedded" on the hardware you had
> 
> Lol and the confusion though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah long story short CPU OPT can be controlled via the AI Suite 2 but NOT the bios. At least from what I tested and understand from my bios playing around.
> My understanding of CPU OPT is it being a 2nd fan for the CPU cooler.


As far as I can tell, there are zero traces of gigabyte or marvell in the registry. All Asus and Asmedia.

Good to know about CPU_OPT. The only header I have plugged in is my pump PWM read, but good to know nonetheless.

ETA: resetting the CMOS after testing faulty memory is a PITA. It refuses to load my overclock even though my settings loaded fine.


----------



## cam51037

The only things that have changed in my build is the motherboard, CPU and 2 less GB of RAM, so you guys think I should reinstall?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> The only things that have changed in my build is the motherboard, CPU and 2 less GB of RAM, so you guys think I should reinstall?


CPU and mobo are more than enough for W7 to throw a fit. I would reinstall.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Cam: full reinstall with full wipe of all partitions.
Using another motherboard is always problematic, if not immediately but in the long run.

@mk: reflashing the bios should do the trick to your saving of oc problem


----------



## cam51037

Alright reinstalling now. What a pain! Lost my BF3 files too, so that's another 15 GB in downloading later. :/ Hope it's worth it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Alright reinstalling now. What a pain! Lost my BF3 files too, so that's another 15 GB in downloading later. :/ Hope it's worth it.


That';s not a big deal - steam save file on the other hand are.
By that I mean BF3 - > you lose no progress (singleplayer doesn't really mean anything in bf3)


----------



## cam51037

Well got it all working and overclocked to 4.5 GHz already.

Currently 3 minutes into a test at 4.5 GHz with 1.2V.


----------



## ihtc

Happy to report system is up and running. Windows and all all drivers installed with no problems. I sanded down by the usb3 header. That went so so. It's still tight but got it in there.


----------



## tienjoh

Looks really nice!!!


----------



## R3apR369

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *level3tjg*
> 
> Had it installed a few days now... 2700k @ 5.0 Ghz stable. Looking sweet in my case too!


Very Nice setup man! Now get that GPU under water!


----------



## cam51037

Well, after a bit of tweaking, it looks like my CPU may be stable at 4.6 GHz with a bit more than 1.2V. It crashed 5 minutes in with 1.2V, but I'm going to back it down to 4.5 GHz, which gets hot enough with my Hyper 212 (80C).


----------



## jktmas

cant wait to get the next set of pictures up, just bought a 570 superclock!


----------



## billythekid2012

hi guys
I am having problems with my sabertooth

the bios keep going to 4.3 for some reason
I have no o/c profiles saved

but when I set the bios to default settings after a few reboot it go to a 4.3 overclock for no reason

and I on the new bios I think 1805 and I used the ubs flash back to update to it


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> hi guys
> I am having problems with my sabertooth
> 
> the bios keep going to 4.3 for some reason
> I have no o/c profiles saved
> 
> but when I set the bios to default settings after a few reboot it go to a 4.3 overclock for no reason
> 
> and I on the new bios I think 1805 and I used the ubs flash back to update to it


download 1805 again, save to a flash drive, and use Asus EZ-Flash from the BIOS to reflash from the USb drive. It will wipe ALL settings and delete all profiles.


----------



## billythekid2012

I had no profiles saved
but I will try what you said does the ubs have to be fat32 or nrsf
hope it works starting to dis like this board


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> I had no profiles saved
> but I will try what you said does the ubs have to be fat32 or nrsf
> hope it works starting to dis like this board


Unsure. I typically use fat32 for anything bootable removable media though. I can guarantee that EZ-Flash reads fat32 since I did it about 3 hours ago lol


----------



## billythekid2012

ok it worked just got to wait and see if it go to 4.3 for no reason hope it don't


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mordocai rp*
> 
> im looking to buy one of these but want to read some reviews first. And sell my old gigabyte on ofc lol


Same here. Gonna study this motherboard closely. I want this as a new build down the road. Now i gotta figure which is the best processor to use. I ain't gonna overclock hardcore but i do hear great reviews on the motherboard bios. Been told that the mobo clocks for your easier now and you don't have to do it manually.


----------



## DeadlyPaperBag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyPaperBag*
> 
> Happy to see so many fellow Z77 sabertooth owners!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say i am very happy with mine so far, and i've had it for about 5 months now.
> 
> Anyway, i've been diggin through the posts in this thread, but i couldnt find any answers to my question:
> Does a EK-FC CSQ bridge fit with this motherboard? like the dual 3slot version (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17486/ex-blc-1352/EK_FC_Bridge_Dual_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_-_SLI_Connection_-_Acrylic_EK-FC_Bridge_DUAL_Parallel_3-Slot_CSQ_Plexi.html#blank)


BUMP


----------



## jktmas

Ive heard of people wanting to wc the board, but couldnt get enough people to send a request in to anyone to make waterblocks for it, but it might.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My RMA:
Rejected due to physical damage - Severe track damage around one of the cpu cooler mounting holes. The serial number label has been tampered with, looks like its been removed and taped back on. Photos on the OLQ

WHAT!???


----------



## cam51037

Why was it sent in for RMA?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> I just got this board for my new setup. I haven't had luck with builds lately (last summer built a machine with the z77 pro thunderbolt board, had freezing issues and corsair h100 issues), Anyhow let me list my specs.
> 
> Corsair 500R Carbide case
> Corsair AX850 PSU
> GSkill DDR3 1600 16GB Ram kit (f3-12800cl9q-16gbxl100% from the QVL)
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
> EVGA GeForce GT 640 2GB PCI Express video card (dual dvi outputs for my 2 LCDS)
> LITE-ON Bluray Player/Burner
> Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD
> Intel i7-3770K CPU 3.5Ghz
> Corsair H100i Cooler
> 
> Now, my needs are a reliable fast computer for work, heavy database, financial models, and some fun stuff like photoshop lightroom, etc. No gaming. Im not sure if i should have gotten a different setup or not. I will NOT overclock and was sure i picked compatible parts here.
> 
> Issue 1) Corsair PSU had to be RMAed, ok got that done - FIXED.
> 
> Issue 2) Corsair H100i the fan pushes hard on the ATX 8pin connector, cant even screw in one screw. Thought this case was designed for this cooler, might just be this board size and placement of atx 8. - not so sure its a problem yet
> 
> Issue 3) Sabertooth USB 3 header and this case is no good (some one showed pics last year in this thread) - Pending fix of me dremeling the metal down a bit
> 
> MAIN ISSUE: I get the CPU RED light . I tried clearing CMOS, Ive swaped PSUs , reseated the CPU. One or two times i got video out and saw it goto insert bootable media. Ok thought it was a fluke but nope turn it off and back on, same issues. I will try a bios update tonight and booting the board outside the case otherwise RMA time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Maybe i can go for a different setup. I need reliable, reliable, reliable. So not asking for much ehre. Building using good parts and stock specs and Windows 7 PRo, has to be a way to get a reliable fast machine.. I thought i picked good quality parts and paid a good penny but frustration is all i got so far. I will be running windows 7 Pro as my OS. This board seemed like a good fit for reliable but not so sure now.
> 
> Any suggestions for a different build ill return this to newegg or should i just get one RMA board and hope for the best. I have heard some people got 3-4 RMAs .. Thanks for listening and for advice!


i had the same problem with my setup buddy, i was so stupid tho, i ended up sawing off the corner peace that would not if in, later after watching some reviews on how to install your fans on the RAD i took them out and mounted the fans on the outside of the case in a pull config, the push config had A LOT of dead spots.
it does look silly having them outside of the case but in the long run its easier to clean your RAD without taking it out of the case, plus you dont have any dead spots.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

DRAM LED was coming on.
If they reject it - I'll reflash the bios chip.
I spoke to them for a good 40mins on the issue.
I won't accept them rejecting it - put it this way.
If they do - I'll call trading standards.

What trhey have done is look at it - really quickly, and rejected it.
Blaming the traces by the CPU cooler mounts is ridiculous. More so I have a lot of pictures (which i posted here too) that show nothing special has been damaged. More so, knowing ihave an antec 920 cooler they made the excuse that the sticker was ripped.
OI course it would have been if there was an adhesive strip stuck on it by the antec's backplate!!

Companies like this, I don't appreciate at all.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> DRAM LED was coming on.
> If they reject it - I'll reflash the bios chip.
> I spoke to them for a good 40mins on the issue.
> I won't accept them rejecting it - put it this way.
> If they do - I'll call trading standards.
> 
> What trhey have done is look at it - really quickly, and rejected it.
> Blaming the traces by the CPU cooler mounts is ridiculous. More so I have a lot of pictures (which i posted here too) that show nothing special has been damaged. More so, knowing ihave an antec 920 cooler they made the excuse that the sticker was ripped.
> OI course it would have been if there was an adhesive strip stuck on it by the antec's backplate!!
> 
> Companies like this, I don't appreciate at all.


I've heard worse from ASUS' RMAs before, did you see the thread where some guy sent his laptop in to be repaired, and they sent it back with a virus, and attempted to access his bank account?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Oh wow - nop could you send me a link?

I've had a terrible experience with ASUS 2 years ago. I thought buying with SCAN would have been a good choice, as I don't have to deal with asus.
Now I know not to trust scan nor asus ever again!

Scan will be losing out on 1000 pounds on another build that I have planed for my friend, and will also be gett "good rep" on the internet








I did tell them, I will be putting it on youtube, my website, here - of my experience with scan uk. I told them - I'm not treatening you, just informing you.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> 
> 
> I found a picture of the 500r and z77 sabertooth. See how it's angled a bit. I think using dremel to sand down metal a tad or make a Grove for the cable. This shouldn't be too hard as it only need to be sanded down just a tad to have a more relaxed fit.
> 
> He seems to have an h100. Hard to see in the pic but that fan is so close. To the 8pin atx it actually hovers over it a bit. The H100i I think the fans are a tad thicker and the tubing certainly is. But i boxed the H100i back up will revisit cooling later. I will add two 120 fans as exhaust for the time being.


sup buddy, i also had the same problem with the usb header and h100i
post above i told my suggestions, what i did to get my usb header in properly is , i took out that peace of rubber. it fitted much better after wards, yes its a quick cheap fix but i couldnt really return my case as it was a few months old, nor did i want o change boards as the sabertooth is WHAT I WANTED ! so i adapted and made it work


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh wow - nop could you send me a link?


Yeah sure here it is: http://www.overclock.net/t/1350570/rmad-laptop-came-back-with-a-virus


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Wow...simply wow.
I'll post my thread after I've got the items back.


----------



## ihtc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> i had the same problem with my setup buddy, i was so stupid tho, i ended up sawing off the corner peace that would not if in, later after watching some reviews on how to install your fans on the RAD i took them out and mounted the fans on the outside of the case in a pull config, the push config had A LOT of dead spots.
> it does look silly having them outside of the case but in the long run its easier to clean your RAD without taking it out of the case, plus you dont have any dead spots.


I ended up not using the h100i, I will be requesting a refund for it from newegg as well as a refund for the DOA motherboard (hope that all goes smooth). I figured withmy use and the advice from the forum I really didn't need it. I put two AF140 quiet fans in the top under mesh to exhaust air outside the case. Everything is running cool for now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> sup buddy, i also had the same problem with the usb header and h100i
> post above i told my suggestions, what i did to get my usb header in properly is , i took out that peace of rubber. it fitted much better after wards, yes its a quick cheap fix but i couldnt really return my case as it was a few months old, nor did i want o change boards as the sabertooth is WHAT I WANTED ! so i adapted and made it work


That was a good idea, thinking back i would have done that too. What i did was use a dremel to sand down the case a bit. It didn't work out too well as its still tight and i made a little mess lol. But the point is i did get it in there and it works. I figure how often would i have to remove it anyway. My case isnt old, but the thought of returning a case and paying return shipping for it wasnt something i wanted to it. I like the case and I do like the motherboard now that I have one that works. Overall Im happy with the build so far.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Here's a thread about my RMA'ing experience with asus + scan:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1362043/my-experience-with-scan-uk-asus-motherboard-antec-920-rma-scan-uk-a-joke-of-a-company

Not a good one to put it shortly.


----------



## ihtc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's a thread about my RMA'ing experience with asus + scan:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1362043/my-experience-with-scan-uk-asus-motherboard-antec-920-rma-scan-uk-a-joke-of-a-company
> 
> Not a good one to put it shortly.


Man im sorry to hear about your story. Thats the one thing I hate about PC side of things is when something does go wrong its usually a pain. RMA process even if it goes smooth is just annoying. Best of luck!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Apologies if it's already been answered, but how well can the assist fans be controlled on this motherboard? For a very quiet build, would these fans be an issue (given that all other fans are high quality quiet undervolted fans)?


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> DRAM LED was coming on.
> If they reject it - I'll reflash the bios chip.
> I spoke to them for a good 40mins on the issue.
> I won't accept them rejecting it - put it this way.
> If they do - I'll call trading standards.
> 
> What trhey have done is look at it - really quickly, and rejected it.
> Blaming the traces by the CPU cooler mounts is ridiculous. More so I have a lot of pictures (which i posted here too) that show nothing special has been damaged. More so, knowing ihave an antec 920 cooler they made the excuse that the sticker was ripped.
> OI course it would have been if there was an adhesive strip stuck on it by the antec's backplate!!
> 
> Companies like this, I don't appreciate at all.


Yeah Asus's RMA process is pretty BS. I had to RMA my first sabertooth, they said that "Oh everything's OK, but a CPU pin is bent" I then informed them "Yeah cause pins will bend after a cpu is inserted and boots perfectly fine.







" Mobo died overnight due to powersurge from my old hx750.

I hope everything works out well for ya bud!

@Eleven: Should be able to control em in the bios or set parameters etc.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihtc*
> 
> Man im sorry to hear about your story. Thats the one thing I hate about PC side of things is when something does go wrong its usually a pain. RMA process even if it goes smooth is just annoying. Best of luck!


Cheers mate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> Yeah Asus's RMA process is pretty BS. I had to RMA my first sabertooth, they said that "Oh everything's OK, but a CPU pin is bent" I then informed them "Yeah cause pins will bend after a cpu is inserted and boots perfectly fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> " Mobo died overnight due to powersurge from my old hx750.
> 
> I hope everything works out well for ya bud!
> 
> @Eleven: Should be able to control em in the bios or set parameters etc.


damn man


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Cheers mate
> damn man


Eh, it's all good. Got my money back but they charged me a repair fee for the socket anyways so w/e.... but the same hx750 killed my second sabertooth AND my EVGA GTX 680 SLI. RMA'd it all and got a AX1200i, another sabertooth (almost went z77 mpower) and my lightnings....Also killed my first Xonar Phoebus and the only surviving part besides the cpu and ssd's, my Dominator Platinums died the other day when my landlord stuck his hand in my case without grounding himself first.

the whole "WOW Is that water!?" *touches tubes and spark arcs off onto the case* reaction -_-


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> Eh, it's all good. Got my money back but they charged me a repair fee for the socket anyways so w/e.... but the same hx750 killed my second sabertooth AND my EVGA GTX 680 SLI. RMA'd it all and got a AX1200i, another sabertooth (almost went z77 mpower) and my lightnings....Also killed my first Xonar Phoebus and the only surviving part besides the cpu and ssd's, my Dominator Platinums died the other day when my landlord stuck his hand in my case without grounding himself first.
> 
> the whole "WOW Is that water!?" *touches tubes and spark arcs off onto the case* reaction -_-


haha!
Now the question is - what happens if I get a board that's damaged upon retrieval...


----------



## AceRuckus

These are probably noob questions... Im trying to use all the fan headers on this board with some Gentle Typhoon AP15s that are 3pin headers.

1) Do all the fan connectors on the board support 12W (1 A)? The manual mentions the CPU_FAN connector supports up to 12W but doesn't mention the others.
2) Can I plug a 3pin into the 4pin fan connector? Sorry, I haven't done this in a while.
3) Would you guys recommend running AP15s on these connectors or would they get fried?


----------



## Davitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha!
> Now the question is - what happens if I get a board that's damaged upon retrieval...


hm, take pics as soon as the box shows up and every step take pics showing clear shots that that's how it was when it shipped xD. OR before sending your board back for RMA again if they do deny it, I wonder if Asus would take a fit if you took a paint marker and just put a dot on an inconspicuous area to mark the board. That way if they accept your rma and then you think you got the same board back just with new stickers, you'll know for a fact









@Ace- you should be good. just make sure the slots line up when you put the connector onto the header.


----------



## jktmas

sounds like atypical bu11 $hit asus response. Worst cs in the business


----------



## jktmas

sounds like atypical bu11 $hit asus response. Worst cs in the business


----------



## iARDAs

Hey guys

Whenever I want to transfer files from my PC to an USB 3.0 external harddisk I am having funny speeds.

The transfer of moving some video files start at 100mb/s than falls down to 13 mb/s and stay that way until the files are transfered

What kind of an issue can this be?

crappy external harddisk?

motherboard issue?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yay looks like there ARE traces by the cpu mounting holes!
Right well, last time I'm buying asus - made the mistake 2 years ago , and made the SAME mistaken 2 years on.

Who designs a £170 board with traces RIGHT NEXT TO the CPU mounting holes? Who in their right mind did that?
Well I know for a fact why they did it. As when you ever so slightly damage a little trace, they can refuse you warranty.

5 year warranty? More like a 5 day one after you buy and fit a CPU cooler to it.
Absolutely disgusted, worst buying decision I've ever made -> buying the sabertooth Z77.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yay looks like there ARE traces by the cpu mounting holes!
> Right well, last time I'm buying asus - made the mistake 2 years ago , and made the SAME mistaken 2 years on.
> 
> Who designs a £170 board with traces RIGHT NEXT TO the CPU mounting holes? Who in their right mind did that?
> Well I know for a fact why they did it. As when you ever so slightly damage a little trace, they can refuse you warranty.
> 
> 5 year warranty? More like a 5 day one after you buy and fit a CPU cooler to it.
> Absolutely disgusted, worst buying decision I've ever made -> buying the sabertooth Z77.


you should take extra caution when building your PC.........


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> you should take extra caution when building your PC.........


Or I should buy a board like the gigabyte one, which has no traces by the CPU holes - for obvious reasons.
I might not be the best PC builder in the world - but mounting a antec 920 + having 1-2mm lee-way is more than acceptable in any respect. At least in my opinion.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Or I should buy a board like the gigabyte one, which has no traces by the CPU holes - for obvious reasons.
> I might not be the best PC builder in the world - but mounting a antec 920 + having 1-2mm lee-way is more than acceptable in any respect. At least in my opinion.


To be fair, my Z68xp-UD4 had traces near the holes. Also in my experience GB support has been trash. There's not much winning in this game.


----------



## flo-oc

My new pc








Sabertooth Z77
i7-3770k
Thermalright silverArrow SB-E
Asus Gtx 680 Top DCII
Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz 2x4go
Intel 335 240go
Seagate Barracuda 2To Sata III 6Go/s
Case : Cooler master HafX






Résult


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> To be fair, my Z68xp-UD4 had traces near the holes. Also in my experience GB support has been trash. There's not much winning in this game.


Did you have any problems with your board bro?


----------



## AerieAngel

The extra traces are fantastic. The topology layout from the VRM assembly to the CPU and to the DRAM is genius. There isn't another board series that can compete. There is no reason why there would be any damage from installing any cooler. Even an H100 which puts quite a bit of pressure on both sides of the board doesn't affect it. Maybe a gigantic Cooler Master V10 or something might put stress on the board especially if not properly mounted and cause some damage to the layered PCB, but even then that is unlikely. Warped boards still function fine and the small amount of stress that a properly mounted cpu cooler would place comparatively probably wouldn't cause a board to be labelled as warped.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Cheers for the input +rep!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Did you have any problems with your board bro?


I had problems with the Gigabyte (hence why I moved to ASUS) especially with the BIOS and after a while the board developed random hard power offs that were immediately cured by switching mobos. It is an uphill battle to get GB to even let me send the board in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> The extra traces are fantastic. The topology layout from the VRM assembly to the CPU and to the DRAM is genius. There isn't another board series that can compete. There is no reason why there would be any damage from installing any cooler. Even an H100 which puts quite a bit of pressure on both sides of the board doesn't affect it. Maybe a gigantic Cooler Master V10 or something might put stress on the board especially if not properly mounted and cause some damage to the layered PCB, but even then that is unlikely. Warped boards still function fine and the small amount of stress that a properly mounted cpu cooler would place comparatively probably wouldn't cause a board to be labelled as warped.


I would argue that an inherent flaw in the board caused the traces to break under normal cooler loading which was just a problem with the specific board you got. Be nice about it though. Say that you love the design and aesthetic and that you chose this board for a specific set of reasons and wish nothing more than to continue using it in operable condition. If they don't go for that, threaten to file a claim with the BBB.

If the traces are scratched and not just broken underneath one of the layers, that could very well be a mistake during install.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I had problems with the Gigabyte (hence why I moved to ASUS) especially with the BIOS and after a while the board developed random hard power offs that were immediately cured by switching mobos. It is an uphill battle to get GB to even let me send the board in.
> I would argue that an inherent flaw in the board caused the traces to break under normal cooler loading which was just a problem with the specific board you got. Be nice about it though. Say that you love the design and aesthetic and that you chose this board for a specific set of reasons and wish nothing more than to continue using it in operable condition. If they don't go for that, threaten to file a claim with the BBB.
> 
> If the traces are scratched and not just broken underneath one of the layers, that could very well be a mistake during install.


I was just talking with my dad over this - his a car mechanic.
He was surprised to hear something so expensive and in such a short time had gone bad.

I was saying to him in quite a laughing tone:
"When you buy a £170 motherboard, you expect it to last, or for the reseller to treat you as a customer with as much care as possible. It's quite funny that a hole, that would be used (could be many applications) has gotten traces over it. Long story short - a motherboard that is supposedly one of the top of the range boards and has all this rubbish about "TUF" inside and such - should break under normal day to day operations"

Again, the more I think about it, the more I'm annoyed about the situation.
Not only the reseller, Scan taking a blind eye, but also Asus for the supposedly "TUF" construction of the board.
If this board can't survive normal CPU mounts (with a deviation of 1-2mm) then what can it actually survive?
Army class....my...


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I was just talking with my dad over this - his a car mechanic.
> He was surprised to hear something so expensive and in such a short time had gone bad.
> 
> I was saying to him in quite a laughing tone:
> "When you buy a £170 motherboard, you expect it to last, or for the reseller to treat you as a customer with as much care as possible. It's quite funny that a hole, that would be used (could be many applications) has gotten traces over it. Long story short - a motherboard that is supposedly one of the top of the range boards and has all this rubbish about "TUF" inside and such - should break under normal day to day operations"
> 
> Again, the more I think about it, the more I'm annoyed about the situation.
> Not only the reseller, Scan taking a blind eye, but also Asus for the supposedly "TUF" construction of the board.
> If this board can't survive normal CPU mounts (with a deviation of 1-2mm) then what can it actually survive?
> Army class....my...


Yeah, the best negative review I ever saw on newegg was a motherboard review, MSI or ASUS, can't remember, but they advertised "army components".

So the reviewer said his motherboard died, and then was like "Sure glad I'm not using it for the army" and then I started loling.









Not sure if it's still funny, maybe it was only funny at the time.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Yeah, the best negative review I ever saw on newegg was a motherboard review, MSI or ASUS, can't remember, but they advertised "army components".
> 
> So the reviewer said his motherboard died, and then was like "Sure glad I'm not using it for the army" and then I started loling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if it's still funny, maybe it was only funny at the time.


haha - wait a minute what makes it "army class" - I know the MSI advertises that - so does the TUF range.
Overcloking to 4.5ghz is not = to TUF rubbish they advertise.

If I choose to scrap the board in revolt, I might want some good ideas on how to test its "military" standards.
Unfortunately don't have access to a gun here - but a BB gun could suffice?

That would be a cheap £170 worth of GOOD TIME SPENT








Get rich or die trying whe I upload it to youtube.
See all the asus fanboys go - ZOMG Y U DO DAAAT?

You mad bro?


----------



## AerieAngel

I wouldn't use aftermarket coolers that go outside of the protected/isolated mounting area provided on the board. I can't speak to SCAN interactions in the UK, but I have had great experiences with ASUS and their engineers here in the US.

Now for some maybe unknown goodies...
The VRM assembly is the top of the line for any channel/enterprise board and that is what the TUF moniker really is pointing at. The perforated PCB design is a huge deal as well. I already mentioned the topology of the PCB too. The T-topology layout versus the daisy chain layout that everyone else does allows for you to actually populate all 4 DIMM slots without sacrifice of performance in overclocking and such. These things are just not done in the market nowadays and really is so ahead of what everyone else is doing.

Also, I know that there are a lot of users here having error lights via the Q-LED system built in on the board. This in itself is something unique to where you can actually see what is causing POST errors and such. Such a great idea and really helps in troubleshooting issues that happen with all boards. Something else is the ESD Guard. Ever plug in a USB flash drive and have a bit of a static spark? Yeah... me too... this ESD system saves you from shocking your chipset.

What IS on the box is the USB 3.0 Boost / Turbo implementation that significantly boosts your USB 3.0 speeds. This really works and is amazing. Native Intel Networking too, yay!

These are just some of the things you are getting that may or may not be advertised on the box. There is a lot of posts on here that highlight problems people are having and I don't want it to dissuade someone from choosing what is an amazing motherboard.


----------



## chillidog

not sure whats all the fuss is about with the sabertooth ,we got 3 builds in the house all using the sabertooth and i only had one problem so far when the pc won't start. what looked like the psu was all right but still no live in the motherboard.i rma it to asus, only to find the problem was with the psu in the end,my fault should of checked the psu

but any way my set up is almost the same as your's totally Dubbed:thumb:


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> not sure whats all the fuss is about with the sabertooth ,we got 3 builds in the house all using the sabertooth and i only had one problem so far when the pc won't start. what looked like the psu was all right but still no live in the motherboard.i rma it to asus, only to find the problem was with the psu in the end,my fault should of checked the psu
> 
> but any way my set up is almost the same as your's totally Dubbed:thumb:


Just make sure they dont send it back with a virus


----------



## MotherFo

If I were you, I'd try to solder that trace back together before shooting it with a BB gun.









I will say, I am a little worried as to what my H100 mount is doing to my board. I know there is no washers in between the standoffs for it.


----------



## jktmas

To be honest im more worried about my H80


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Just make sure they dont send it back with a virus


LAWL








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> If I were you, I'd try to solder that trace back together before shooting it with a BB gun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will say, I am a little worried as to what my H100 mount is doing to my board. I know there is no washers in between the standoffs for it.


Plan of action if rejected (knowing asus they probably will reject it, even though it is a "high-end" board, and they value their customers...or so very dearly...* sarcasm*):
1. Re-fash bios chip
2. Try using paper on the traces
3. Try examining the traces more
4. Explode it in a microwave.


----------



## gabecubano14

Hey everyone. I've been using this website since the board came out. It seems to be the most up to date site. The ahci beta 12.0.0.1083 beta driver is actually quite good. My boot time seems to be the same if not slightly faster. I did try the 2.0.0.1000 beta usb and it actually gave me a blue screen. I might've forced the install but i was able to load windows with the last known good configuration and it pushed back my ahci driver but the issue was with the usb. The AHCI BETA driver is fine but stay away from the USB BETA driver.

http://www.station-drivers.com/page/asus/asus_sabertooth_z77.htm

Gabe


----------



## jktmas

Hey guys looking for any / all input.

I recently installed Windows 8 on my Sabertooth Z77 Pc, and i was wondering if anyone had any tips / tricks for using it with this board that make the whole experience just a little (or allot) better.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Hey guys looking for any / all input.
> 
> I recently installed Windows 8 on my Sabertooth Z77 Pc, and i was wondering if anyone had any tips / tricks for using it with this board that make the whole experience just a little (or allot) better.


Just make sure to install the newest drivers from the ASUS site. W8 configures itself very, VERY well.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> W8 configures itself very, VERY well.


Yes i noticed this already, It installed perfectly on a lga775 board that didn't work right with Win7. and i did get the latest downloads, but i was wondering if there was some settings in win8 / bios to make things better.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Yes i noticed this already, It installed perfectly on a lga775 board that didn't work right with Win7. and i did get the latest downloads, but i was wondering if there was some settings in win8 / bios to make things better.


Not really. The board usually configures secure boot on its own, and I believe fast boot is enabled by default (even though w7 doesn't support it) so that is pretty much taken care of. For a fresh install make sure you have all the ports and whatnot on the board enabled. It doesn't take kindly to installing without a LAn port then sometime later, bam presto, lan port.


----------



## AceRuckus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davitz*
> 
> hm, take pics as soon as the box shows up and every step take pics showing clear shots that that's how it was when it shipped xD. OR before sending your board back for RMA again if they do deny it, I wonder if Asus would take a fit if you took a paint marker and just put a dot on an inconspicuous area to mark the board. That way if they accept your rma and then you think you got the same board back just with new stickers, you'll know for a fact
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ace- you should be good. just make sure the slots line up when you put the connector onto the header.


are all the fan connectors rated the same?


----------



## [email protected]

I intend to get this mobo cuz i keep still hearing good review and i ain't needing to overclock so i can only use xmp if i want performance
However i wonder if i need to update bios on the ivy the minute i install it. Also i heard you should never install network icontrol geature cuz i heard it causes problems with your cable network. Gotta read this thread throughly before i order it. Also which ram would be better? Corsair dominator. Or gskill? I have been using gskill for 3yrs though..


----------



## [email protected]

Also you should stop making ppl wory about viruses. Im sure it won't happen to him and you are one paranoid troll lol.


----------



## AzJazz

Sigh.

I've replaced my motherboard, I've replaced my CPU, I've replaced my RAM, I've replaced my PSU.

And ... I still get the occasional random power-up hangs before the BIOS status screen appears.

*Note:* I was mistaken before: It isn't the CPU LED that is lit up when a freeze occurs, it is the "BOOT DEVICE LED". Not sure what that means for my situation.

One odd thing that I have noticed is that if I wait long enough (sometimes for up to about 5 minutes), my system will almost always eventually power up.

Lowering the DRAM voltage a little helps quite a bit for some reason. I have it set so the monitored value is at the specifications for my RAM chips. The monitored values being read for DRAM Voltage is at 1.645 V (Set @ 1.63 V), should be 1.65 V. When I set the DRAM Voltage at 1.65 V, the monitored value reads around 1.68 V.

I wish my new system was more stable. I'm not sure it will last 5 years like my last system did.

I'm concerned that eventually, it just won't power up.


----------



## MKHunt

Boot device LED? Check your HDD SSD. Sounds like that's all that's left anyway.


----------



## MKHunt

Holy batman my mouse needs new firmware


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I intend to get this mobo cuz i keep still hearing good review and i ain't needing to overclock so i can only use xmp if i want performance
> However i wonder if i need to update bios on the ivy the minute i install it. Also i heard you should never install network icontrol geature cuz i heard it causes problems with your cable network. Gotta read this thread throughly before i order it. Also which ram would be better? Corsair dominator. Or gskill? I have been using gskill for 3yrs though..


Why are you thinking of this board, if you aren't going to OC?
There's absolutely no point of getting this board unless you want to OC and/or show off your motherboard/case look.
You could buy the board I got for my mum - the Gigabyte one (check my sig) - costs half the price, performs just as good - especially seeing as this rig won't be OC'ed.

1. Bios doesn't need to be update immediately - but I would suggest going for 1805 after you've done all your windows installations
2. icontrol has been known to reduce bandwidth - mainly in UPLOAD speeds
3. Ram - depends on what you want it for etc - I suggest 8GB of samsung/gskills/corsair 1600MHZ @ 1.5v -> you honestly don't need the dominator by the sounds of what you will be using it for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Boot device LED? Check your HDD SSD. Sounds like that's all that's left anyway.


Agreed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Holy batman my mouse needs new firmware


haha!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Sigh.
> 
> I've replaced my motherboard, I've replaced my CPU, I've replaced my RAM, I've replaced my PSU.
> 
> And ... I still get the occasional random power-up hangs before the BIOS status screen appears.
> 
> *Note:* I was mistaken before: It isn't the CPU LED that is lit up when a freeze occurs, it is the "BOOT DEVICE LED". Not sure what that means for my situation.
> 
> One odd thing that I have noticed is that if I wait long enough (sometimes for up to about 5 minutes), my system will almost always eventually power up.
> 
> Lowering the DRAM voltage a little helps quite a bit for some reason. I have it set so the monitored value is at the specifications for my RAM chips. The monitored values being read for DRAM Voltage is at 1.645 V (Set @ 1.63 V), should be 1.65 V. When I set the DRAM Voltage at 1.65 V, the monitored value reads around 1.68 V.
> 
> I wish my new system was more stable. I'm not sure it will last 5 years like my last system did.
> 
> I'm concerned that eventually, it just won't power up.


That or go into your boot options and disable all the other possibilities except for the hard drive you are using. Does your SSD need a new firmware? Do you have external hard drives plugged in on boot?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Boot device LED? Check your HDD SSD. Sounds like that's all that's left anyway.


x3


----------



## AerieAngel

You guys got this... I'm going back to whatever it was I was doing before.









Oh, and someone mentioned a concern with the H100 or H80 mounted to the motherboard. If you followed the directions of tightening the mounts in the correct order and didn't overdo it you should be fine. For some reason a lot of users like to torque down those things like crazy and do them one at a time all the way. I don't get it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> You guys got this... I'm going back to whatever it was I was doing before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and someone mentioned a concern with the H100 or H80 mounted to the motherboard. If you followed the directions of tightening the mounts in the correct order and didn't overdo it you should be fine. For some reason a lot of users like to torque down those things like crazy and do them one at a time all the way. I don't get it.


ppl don't always torque them down hard. People who build their computers always like to make sure they contact the cpu and heatsink which is why ppl always double check they are screwed down. You only need to do an X shape to get a full flat contact with the CPU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ppl don't always torque them down hard. People who build their computers always like to make sure they contact the cpu and heatsink which is why ppl always double check they are screwed down. You only need to do an X shape to get a full flat contact with the CPU.


This.


----------



## Elloquin

@ AZjazz

Check to see if the board is setting the BCLK above 100. Before I chucked this board It would randomly set it at 41 multi x 103 BCLK lol.


----------



## MotherFo

When I installed my I7 last weekend, I nearly freaked out because one of the hex-nuts was coming loose from the back-plate. I had to re-tighten it whilst trying to hold the block from resting on the cpu or ram.

I'm not sure why, but those hex bolts are always coming loose on mine.

I double checked the tightness last night and it seems good. I did try and see if the block shifted at all if I pushed it at all. It moved a little bit and my temps changed a little bit on one of the cores haha.

The i7 at stock usually idles at 25-27c - 35-39c When it boots initially I've seen some cores hit 17-19c







But it then begins to heat up.

-Fo™


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> When I installed my I7 last weekend, I nearly freaked out because one of the hex-nuts was coming loose from the back-plate. I had to re-tighten it whilst trying to hold the block from resting on the cpu or ram.
> 
> I'm not sure why, but those hex bolts are always coming loose on mine.
> 
> I double checked the tightness last night and it seems good. I did try and see if the block shifted at all if I pushed it at all. It moved a little bit and my temps changed a little bit on one of the cores haha.
> 
> The i7 at stock usually idles at 25-27c - 35-39c When it boots initially I've seen some cores hit 17-19c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it then begins to heat up.
> 
> -Fo™


Put nail polish on the bolt threads and reinstall it. The nail polish acts as a low-level loc-tite.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Put nail polish on the bolt threads and reinstall it. The nail polish acts as a low-level loc-tite.


If I already have low-level loc-tite, what should I do with the nail polish?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> If I already have low-level loc-tite, what should I do with the nail polish?


Wear it and post pix


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> You guys got this... I'm going back to whatever it was I was doing before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and someone mentioned a concern with the H100 or H80 mounted to the motherboard. If you followed the directions of tightening the mounts in the correct order and didn't overdo it you should be fine. For some reason a lot of users like to torque down those things like crazy and do them one at a time all the way. I don't get it.


dude, do you own a H100i or H80i ?
they dont like the sabertooth, i have had to make my own mounting screws and stuff, the stock ones dont fit properly ! they dont screw down hard leaving the block only making 60% contact.
had to reseat mine countless of times.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> That or go into your boot options and disable all the other possibilities except for the hard drive you are using. Does your SSD need a new firmware? Do you have external hard drives plugged in on boot?


Well, I believe I have finally isolated the source of all my headaches: My BluRay DVD player appears to be the issue. While the BluRay player always worked flawlessly once I have booted into Windows, disconnecting it's SATA connection seems to have eliminated the random freezing before the BIOS Status screen. I've rebooted a couple of dozen times now, and I haven't seen the freezing since.

I wish I didn't misread the Sabertooth User Guide for which fault LED was lit (BOOT_DEVICE instead of CPU). It would have steered me in the right direction sooner. I had double checked that earlier, too.

Cheers,

AzJazz


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Well, I believe I have finally isolated the source of all my headaches: My BluRay DVD player appears to be the issue. While the BluRay player always worked flawlessly once I have booted into Windows, disconnecting it's SATA connection seems to have eliminated the random freezing before the BIOS Status screen. I've rebooted a couple of dozen times now, and I haven't seen the freezing since.
> 
> I wish I didn't misread the Sabertooth User Guide for which fault LED was lit (BOOT_DEVICE instead of CPU). It would have steered me in the right direction sooner. I had double checked that earlier, too.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> AzJazz


Finally! Some resolution to this epic battle!

Well, have you tried replacing the SATA cable to see if that makes a difference? If there a firmware update for the drive?


----------



## McOpCo

Has anyone had any issues with the bios cpu ratio setting not actaully being set? Like I have it set to 47 in bios but when I boot into windows cpuZ realtemp core temp and everything says 45 I can reboot go back into bios and all the settings are still set for 47 but it will not oc past 45 through bios. I can use the AISuite to get it to 47 and above had it to 5 Ghz but then if I have to reboot or whatever it's all lost. Bios ratio settings seem not to matter it ends up at whatever it wants in windows. I have tried stepping dissabled turbo disabled enabled whatever makes no difference. Any ideas??


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Well, I believe I have finally isolated the source of all my headaches: My BluRay DVD player appears to be the issue. While the BluRay player always worked flawlessly once I have booted into Windows, disconnecting it's SATA connection seems to have eliminated the random freezing before the BIOS Status screen. I've rebooted a couple of dozen times now, and I haven't seen the freezing since.
> 
> I wish I didn't misread the Sabertooth User Guide for which fault LED was lit (BOOT_DEVICE instead of CPU). It would have steered me in the right direction sooner. I had double checked that earlier, too.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> AzJazz


Quite off to think why it would cause any issues - maybe you have to re-set your boot priorities in the BIOS?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McOpCo*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with the bios cpu ratio setting not actaully being set? Like I have it set to 47 in bios but when I boot into windows cpuZ realtemp core temp and everything says 45 I can reboot go back into bios and all the settings are still set for 47 but it will not oc past 45 through bios. I can use the AISuite to get it to 47 and above had it to 5 Ghz but then if I have to reboot or whatever it's all lost. Bios ratio settings seem not to matter it ends up at whatever it wants in windows. I have tried stepping dissabled turbo disabled enabled whatever makes no difference. Any ideas??


Many have had this issue - reflash the bios.


----------



## [email protected]3

I honestly don't think the coolers dislike sabretooth because you probably didn't install it properly. Also i had an H70 on my old sabretooth for three years so i had no complaints. I hope the h100i will fit fine on the ivy sabretooth. I'm sure it's a fine cooler.


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> dude, do you own a H100i or H80i ?
> they dont like the sabertooth, i have had to make my own mounting screws and stuff, the stock ones dont fit properly ! they dont screw down hard leaving the block only making 60% contact.
> had to reseat mine countless of times.


I'm running the H100i and had no issues at all with seating on the sabertooth, It's running nicely, pump LED has never been red even with Prime95 and the temps drop straight down


----------



## billythekid2012

IS asus the best place to get the windows 8 drivers for this board
i see a lot of guys say asus is way out of date with there drivers

and what about the z77 driver post on oc.net are the safe to use


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> IS asus the best place to get the windows 8 drivers for this board
> i see a lot of guys say asus is way out of date with there drivers
> 
> and what about the z77 driver post on oc.net are the safe to use


I generally look at what Asus has to offer and then go directly to the site, mainly intel for chipset and RST drivers and intel usb 3. Asmedia ones I grabbed from asus.


----------



## Inacoma79

Hey guys I broke the power and sata tabs on my HD and need to find a replacement. The drive's pcb is intact and it still works normally, but if ever I remove it I'll never be able to plug the cables back in.

Is this something I can buy/trade for here on OCN? The drive is a WD Caviar Black 1TB


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thanks for the help!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Hey guys I broke the power and sata tabs on my HD and need to find a replacement. The drive's pcb is intact and it still works normally, but if ever I remove it I'll never be able to plug the cables back in.
> 
> Is this something I can buy/trade for here on OCN? The drive is a WD Caviar Black 1TB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help!


1. Superglue
2. Contact WD and see if they can send a replacement part
3. Ebay to see if someone has a dead one or parts (exact model)


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> 1. Superglue
> 2. Contact WD and see if they can send a replacement part
> 3. Ebay to see if someone has a dead one or parts (exact model)


I think it's beyond repair. The material splinters it's not like a clean break from what I saw. Also read somewhere that SG is conductive so don't want to risk frying the drive. A guy did this with his velociraptor and the thing started to smoke. LOL

Contacted WD and they won't send parts, just RMA the drive (want to avoid this). A new PCB also cost $40-60 but you gotta swap out the controller chip (homie don't play that). ebay... sigh... if all else fails, I guess.


----------



## Gingertechy

Anyone think there will be an issue with room when running sli titans and a asus STX essence on a z77 sabertooth?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ginger:
You should be fine, but you'll be stretching it thin on space.
Only one pcie slot will be available (top one) after putting that all in.
Apart from that you're good to go.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ginger:
> You should be fine, but you'll be stretching it thin on space.
> Only one pcie slot will be available (top one) after putting that all in.
> Apart from that you're good to go.


Don't be Raciest.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ginger:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Don't be Raciest.


WINNING


----------



## jktmas

Lol just installed everyting with windows 8 and i forgot to turn off icontroll. i was wondering why my internet was so crappy


----------



## majnu

is there a way to wake the board up on mouse? I can't see anything in bios.


----------



## kinetikgaming

I just bought the z77 Sabertooth and am looking into possible solutions for the intake assist fan on the back of the board, since I don't want to be sucking tons of dust and pet hairs into my board. One option is to obviously install it backwards as an exhaust, but my other option is to get a small dust filter for it. Does anyone know where I could buy a dust filter that would fit? It's a 35mm fan, correct?


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Does anyone know where I could buy a dust filter that would fit? It's a 35mm fan, correct?


Get black nylon pantyhose for like 99cents and cut and just stretch it around the fan. Secure with a little superglue. Best dust filter ever! It looks really good too!


----------



## kinetikgaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Get black nylon pantyhose for like 99cents and cut and just stretch it around the fan. Secure with a little superglue. Best dust filter ever! It looks really good too!


Thanks for the tip, that actually looks like it could work extremely well! Won't cost much either.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quite off to think why it would cause any issues - maybe you have to re-set your boot priorities in the BIOS?.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Finally! Some resolution to this epic battle!
> 
> Well, have you tried replacing the SATA cable to see if that makes a difference? If there a firmware update for the drive?


A SATA cable change had no effect on the problem. So, I replaced my old Blu-Ray DVD drive with a new Asus BW-12B1ST. All my boot issues have disappeared.

I didn't ever try changing my BIOS boot settings, since I always want to boot off of my DVD player first.

Thanks again for the patience and support!









*Now that everything is working fine, I have a new question:* I have tried using the AI Suite Thermal Radar application to adjust my system fan speeds, but none of the changes to my fan curves seems to have any effect. All of my system fans just run at the normal speeds. Is there something I need to do to get the Thermal Radar application to modify my fans speeds?

Thanks,

AzJazz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> A SATA cable change had no effect on the problem. So, I replaced my old Blu-Ray DVD drive with a new Asus BW-12B1ST. All my boot issues have disappeared.
> 
> I didn't ever try changing my BIOS boot settings, since I always want to boot off of my DVD player first.
> 
> Thanks again for the patience and support!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Now that everything is working fine, I have a new question:* I have tried using the AI Suite Thermal Radar application to adjust my system fan speeds, but none of the changes to my fan curves seems to have any effect. All of my system fans just run at the normal speeds. Is there something I need to do to get the Thermal Radar application to modify my fans speeds?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AzJazz


The fans adjust for a few reasons:
1. If they are connected to the motherboard
2. If they are PWM fans
3. If you have load

As for your DVD....hahaha typical Asus...only working with Asus...


----------



## sliguy0827

Wow. I have fought my usb's for 8 weeks, until I found this thread! Thanks so much!


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Lol just installed everyting with windows 8 and i forgot to turn off icontroll. i was wondering why my internet was so crappy


How do you turn off I control and does it increase net speed


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad556*
> 
> How do you turn off I control and does it increase net speed


uninstall it








And it affects your UPLOAD speeds more than anything - in a negative way.


----------



## jktmas

in ai suite 2 click tools, network icontroll, then turn it off.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The fans adjust for a few reasons:
> 1. If they are connected to the motherboard
> 2. If they are PWM fans
> 3. If you have load


The fans are all connected to the motherboard, and they are all PWM fans.

The fan speeds do change as a result of the motherboard-sensed CPU temperature. I'm trying to adjust the fan speed <=> CPU temperature curve to change how fast the fans run with respect to CPU temperature.

I am trying to modify the fan speed curve using the Asus Thermal Radar program. If you click on the second bottom tab with the fan icon, and then the "Setting" button with the wrench, you can select different fan speed profiles. So far, I have not seen any effect when selecting different profiles, even when creating my own with the "User" profile.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As for your DVD....hahaha typical Asus...only working with Asus...


Yep, gotta love that.


----------



## Bigjeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> in ai suite 2 click tools, network icontroll, then turn it off.


I tryed that and it still didn't work. Then I deleted the program and installed it without the network controller and it still slowed my internet speed over time. I liked what it did, but I had to get rid of it.


----------



## Bigjeep

My question is, now that asus ai suite 11 is gone. Is there a program out there that I can download that does close to the same thing. I thought it was neat, but it was just to buggy.


----------



## jktmas

if you uninstalled it then network i control is gone and your network is fine.


----------



## zikoziko

Hi all,

I have the Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I have two DVI-D monitors, connected as follows:

I have one monitor plugged into the HDMI on the motherboard with a DVI-D to HDMI cable. This works.
I have a second monitor, with a normal DVI-D cable, but with a DVI-D to DisplayPort adapter. This *does not* work.
The monitor connected to the DisplayPort does not work.

I've tried connecting only one monitor to the board, to the DisplayPort, this still doesn't work.
I've tried switched the monitors around. I just can't get the DisplayPort to work.
This is driving me nuts. Does anyone know if it's possible to run two monitors off of the on board graphics? and also how to get the DisplayPort to work?

Thannnnnnks!


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guy i been having problems with my boad for like 2 months
First for no reason it would overclock to 4.3 by it self out of the blue
and i had no profiles set.
so i redid the bios and all was good to 1805

so like 2 weeks ago i installed windows 8 in uefi mode i ran it for a week and did like it

so i in stalled windows 7 back in

i defulted the bios so it was not in uefi mode

i diskparted the ssd

but for some reason i will get a pop up on boot saying some thing system cant run in uefi

and when i go to the bios there no drives untell i set it to defult and reboot.

do i need to rma it


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I honestly don't think the coolers dislike sabretooth because you probably didn't install it properly. Also i had an H70 on my old sabretooth for three years so i had no complaints. I hope the h100i will fit fine on the ivy sabretooth. I'm sure it's a fine cooler.


its not that the bracket doesnt fit properly, its to do with the stand-off screws seem to be to "long for the screw nuts.
i havnt read any bad things about the H70/80/100, how ever i have read a few post where the H80i and the H100i do not site properly on the sabertooth. i read the posts and didint believe it either untill i took my block off and saw that only 60-70% was making contact.
it was sitting lose and i could not tighten my screws anymore without damaging them.
one can not make a statement like that if you have have not fitted a H80i or H100i yourself on a Sabertooth.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=113707
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I'm running the H100i and had no issues at all with seating on the sabertooth, It's running nicely, pump LED has never been red even with Prime95 and the temps drop straight down


have you taken it off and checked how much area has made contact ? mine worked fine but didnt like the idea that it was kind lose so i took mine off and noticed only a 60-70% area had made contact, dont get me wrong, im not a noob at IT, been working and building computers for 10 years now. just wiggle your block and see it there is a slight wiggle.


----------



## tomzx

Hi all,

I recently bought a Sabertooth z77 (see signature), but for whatever reason, I can't get it to power any usb device while it is in sleep mode. I've looked through the BIOS but I haven't found anything about enabling or disabling that functionality.

Furthermore I have the regular wake from sleep issue where if you have a device (phone) plugged in, the computer will not wake up and there will be no video signal. Interestingly too, my keyboard/mouse don't power up either until I unplug/plug them back in, which at that point only powers them but they are into some "locked" state. For instance, the keyboard will have the 3 lights at the top right on (numlock, capslock, scroll lock).

Have any of you faced similars issues? Were you able to get them fixed or did you have no choice but accept that's how it's going to be (my current stage







)?

Thanks for any help!


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomzx*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I recently bought a Sabertooth z77 (see signature), but for whatever reason, I can't get it to power any usb device while it is in sleep mode. I've looked through the BIOS but I haven't found anything about enabling or disabling that functionality.
> 
> Furthermore I have the regular wake from sleep issue where if you have a device (phone) plugged in, the computer will not wake up and there will be no video signal. Interestingly too, my keyboard/mouse don't power up either until I unplug/plug them back in, which at that point only powers them but they are into some "locked" state. For instance, the keyboard will have the 3 lights at the top right on (numlock, capslock, scroll lock).
> 
> Have any of you faced similars issues? Were you able to get them fixed or did you have no choice but accept that's how it's going to be (my currentl stage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> 
> Thanks for any help!


i have been having USB 3 Driver issues, i install chipsset 1st then usb drives. still having a problem.
i thinks its coz i installed windows 7 from usb that was in usb3. not to sure, but i really dont feel like doing it again.

as for power during sleep mine seems to be working.


----------



## diobrando89

hi guys,
i connected my inspire t7700 (7.1 speakers) to my sabertooth z77 and everything works fine. now i've connected my ps3 via optical audio cable to the mobo but it won't work.
is it beacause the S/PDIF (Optical Sound) port is only an output? it is possible to change it to an input port?

thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

It's only an output not an input.
Why do you want to connect it via optical to your pc though?
Why not go straight to your sound system (what I presume you have)


----------



## diobrando89

cuz it doesn't have any optical input








i tought that the mobo had both input and output.
is there any chance to convert it?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> The fans are all connected to the motherboard, and they are all PWM fans.
> 
> The fan speeds do change as a result of the motherboard-sensed CPU temperature. I'm trying to adjust the fan speed <=> CPU temperature curve to change how fast the fans run with respect to CPU temperature.
> 
> I am trying to modify the fan speed curve using the Asus Thermal Radar program. If you click on the second bottom tab with the fan icon, and then the "Setting" button with the wrench, you can select different fan speed profiles. So far, I have not seen any effect when selecting different profiles, even when creating my own with the "User" profile.
> Yep, gotta love that.


WOOT!

I'm not positive with PWM fans as I have 3pin fans, but it may be because you have fan profiles or setting setup in the bios that are conflicting with the ones you are trying to setup in thermal radar.

Double check that.

Next, the way thermal radar fan profiles work is they are tied to a single component or up to 3. Then you adjust from there. You want it set to USER. Try checking the allow fan stop box and see if they immediately turn off. If they do, then you need to adjust some settings on the graph or what the fan is linked to. (cpu, board, etc)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomzx*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I recently bought a Sabertooth z77 (see signature), but for whatever reason, I can't get it to power any usb device while it is in sleep mode. I've looked through the BIOS but I haven't found anything about enabling or disabling that functionality.
> 
> Furthermore I have the regular wake from sleep issue where if you have a device (phone) plugged in, the computer will not wake up and there will be no video signal. Interestingly too, my keyboard/mouse don't power up either until I unplug/plug them back in, which at that point only powers them but they are into some "locked" state. For instance, the keyboard will have the 3 lights at the top right on (numlock, capslock, scroll lock).
> 
> Have any of you faced similars issues? Were you able to get them fixed or did you have no choice but accept that's how it's going to be (my currentl stage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> 
> Thanks for any help!


See my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diobrando89*
> 
> cuz it doesn't have any optical input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i tought that the mobo had both input and output.
> is there any chance to convert it?


I have no idea - but usually with audio, the way it is design, you can't invert the signal.
DO you need to go via optical?

Can't you do RCA red and white to 3.5mm?
That's what I used to do, until I got a my Z-5500


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Hi guy i been having problems with my boad for like 2 months
> First for no reason it would overclock to 4.3 by it self out of the blue
> and i had no profiles set.
> so i redid the bios and all was good to 1805
> 
> so like 2 weeks ago i installed windows 8 in uefi mode i ran it for a week and did like it
> 
> so i in stalled windows 7 back in
> 
> i defulted the bios so it was not in uefi mode
> 
> i diskparted the ssd
> 
> but for some reason i will get a pop up on boot saying some thing system cant run in uefi
> 
> and when i go to the bios there no drives untell i set it to defult and reboot.
> 
> do i need to rma it


Looks like not going to get any help are you guys don't know what going on
with it.

Not liking this board to much right now


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Tried reflashing the bios and making sure it isn't on ide?


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Tried reflashing the bios and making sure it isn't on ide?


I reflashed the bios 3 times so far 2 times with flash back and 1 with easy flash

and what do you mean by make sure it isn't on ide

and thanks for helping


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> I reflashed the bios 3 times so far 2 times with flash back and 1 with easy flash
> 
> and what do you mean by make sure it isn't on ide
> 
> and thanks for helping


IDE is the sata type of the HDD.
If you are on a SSD maybe it changed hen you flashed the bios (in fact I can guarantee it went to IDE, if you had previously set it to avhi)


----------



## friskiest

Great thread!








I haven't had any issues with my Sabertooth at all.
Just recently found a new home in my TJ11.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> WOOT!
> 
> I'm not positive with PWM fans as I have 3pin fans, but it may be because you have fan profiles or setting setup in the bios that are conflicting with the ones you are trying to setup in thermal radar.
> 
> Double check that.


Hi, MF - I figured out part of my problem, based on your suggestion: I needed to set all the Fan speed settings in the BIOS to "Manual". This allowed me to lower the speed on the tiny Asst Fans 1 & 2. However, I can't seem to change the speed of my CPU fans at all, even though it is set to "Manual" in the BIOS as well.


----------



## Detoyminador

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=113707
have you taken it off and checked how much area has made contact ? mine worked fine but didnt like the idea that it was kind lose so i took mine off and noticed only a 60-70% area had made contact, dont get me wrong, im not a noob at IT, been working and building computers for 10 years now. just wiggle your block and see it there is a slight wiggle.[/quote]

No I haven't removed the block yet to check the contact, I do plan on doing it soon as to see if the thermal spread evenly.
And yes I have wiggled the block, there is no play in it at all, very firm.


----------



## diobrando89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I have no idea - but usually with audio, the way it is design, you can't invert the signal.
> DO you need to go via optical?
> 
> Can't you do RCA red and white to 3.5mm?
> That's what I used to do, until I got a my Z-5500


what you mean with rca red and white to 3.5mm? can you post a link or an image?
i was thinking of getting an optical to jack 3.5, it should do the trick


----------



## billythekid2012

Can sone one tell me where the battery is on the board
I was going to take it out for 15 to 20
and see if that helps

It must be be hind the armor if so that dumb if asus or is there a removable cover i cant find

I would do a rma but i broke a part of the tab on a pci-e slot that lock the card in
i could not get the card out so i must of pushed to hard on it
but the slot work fine.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Can sone one tell me where the battery is on the board
> I was going to take it out for 15 to 20
> and see if that helps
> 
> It must be be hind the armor if so that dumb if asus or is there a removable cover i cant find
> 
> I would do a rma but i broke a part of the tab on a pci-e slot that lock the card in
> i could not get the card out so i must of pushed to hard on it
> but the slot work fine.


you have too remove the armor ................ :-(
check yo manual bro


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diobrando89*
> 
> what you mean with rca red and white to 3.5mm? can you post a link or an image?
> i was thinking of getting an optical to jack 3.5, it should do the trick


http://www.kenable.co.uk/images/k004.jpg

something around those lines.
You can't convert optical to 3.5m.....without both ends being digitally capable of taking the signal....


----------



## tw1st

Just picked up this motherboard, very happy with it.

I'm at work currently so I do not have a way to check, but does anyone know if AHCI is enabled by default? From what I understand that is the setting to use when on a SSD drive. Anyone know how can I check in bios?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Hi, MF - I figured out part of my problem, based on your suggestion: I needed to set all the Fan speed settings in the BIOS to "Manual". This allowed me to lower the speed on the tiny Asst Fans 1 & 2. However, I can't seem to change the speed of my CPU fans at all, even though it is set to "Manual" in the BIOS as well.


Are they PWM? What is your cooler? Where's it plugged into? Which cpu fan plug? I believe one is controllable and one isn't.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> you have too remove the armor ................ :-(
> check yo manual bro


X2 (under armor by video card I believe)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Just picked up this motherboard, very happy with it.
> 
> I'm at work currently so I do not have a way to check, but does anyone know if AHCI is enabled by default? From what I understand that is the setting to use when on a SSD drive. Anyone know how can I check in bios?


AHCI is by default. Under Sata settings in bios. The manual will tell you which category.


----------



## Brenton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are they PWM? What is your cooler? Where's it plugged into? Which cpu fan plug? I believe one is controllable and one isn't.
> X2 (under armor by video card I believe)
> AHCI is by default. Under Sata settings in bios. The manual will tell you which category.


Gratz, this is a great board. You will love it.


----------



## Brenton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Just picked up this motherboard, very happy with it.
> 
> Gratz, this is a great board. You will love it.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are they PWM? What is your cooler? Where's it plugged into? Which cpu fan plug? I believe one is controllable and one isn't.


I'm using the Noctua NH-D14, which has a 120mm fan + a 140mm fan. Both fans have 3-pin connectors. I have the 2 fans connected to the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers on the motherboard.

BTW, the Noctua NH-D14 is an awesome air cooler - I am using that in place of my water cooling system, and seeing similar performance. My nominal CPU temperature is 29 DegC, and I max out at around 62 DegC under OCCT. Maybe the Noctua NH-D14 is not as great as a water cooler, but it is pretty close, and a lot quieter. I certainly couldn't get the nominal temperature lower with a water system, and I'm guessing that my peak water-cooled temperature would be in the lower 50's. But air cooling sure is a lot less fuss!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> I'm using the Noctua NH-D14, which has a 120mm fan + a 140mm fan. Both fans have 3-pin connectors. I have the 2 fans connected to the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers on the motherboard.
> 
> BTW, the Noctua NH-D14 is an awesome air cooler - I am using that in place of my water cooling system, and seeing similar performance. My nominal CPU temperature is 29 DegC, and I max out at around 62 DegC under OCCT. Maybe the Noctua NH-D14 is not as great as a water cooler, but it is pretty close, and a lot quieter. I certainly couldn't get the nominal temperature lower with a water system, and *I'm guessing that my peak water-cooled temperature would be in the lower 50's.* But air cooling sure is a lot less fuss!


If you're talking custom loop, i would beg to differ. My OC'ed CPU at 1.35V tops at 41C in the same loop as my overvolted 590. But maybe I just have a lot of radiator space (6x 120mm anyone?) chock full of SP120 fans at 50%.

For the price, the NH-D14 is ridiculously cool running. And Noctua's fans are ugly and trout-colored, but man are they ever nice.


----------



## diobrando89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> http://www.kenable.co.uk/images/k004.jpg
> 
> something around those lines.
> You can't convert optical to 3.5m.....without both ends being digitally capable of taking the signal....


too bad they didn't put an optical input








i'll invest 40€ for a sound card...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> I'm using the Noctua NH-D14, which has a 120mm fan + a 140mm fan. Both fans have 3-pin connectors. I have the 2 fans connected to the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers on the motherboard.
> 
> BTW, the Noctua NH-D14 is an awesome air cooler - I am using that in place of my water cooling system, and seeing similar performance. My nominal CPU temperature is 29 DegC, and I max out at around 62 DegC under OCCT. Maybe the Noctua NH-D14 is not as great as a water cooler, but it is pretty close, and a lot quieter. I certainly couldn't get the nominal temperature lower with a water system, and I'm guessing that my peak water-cooled temperature would be in the lower 50's. But air cooling sure is a lot less fuss!


true, i got an NH-C14 and i'm very happy with it, materials also are very good


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diobrando89*
> 
> too bad they didn't put an optical input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll invest 40€ for a sound card...
> true, i got an NH-C14 and i'm very happy with it, materials also are very good


hm...again the soundcard is an OUTPUT.
I have no idea why you aren't listening to what I'm telling you to do....it is not only the cheapest, but best method for you.


----------



## diobrando89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hm...again the soundcard is an OUTPUT.
> I have no idea why you aren't listening to what I'm telling you to do....it is not only the cheapest, but best method for you.


what i need is an input, i got my ps3 connected to the mb and the 7.1 speakers connected to the mb.
simply i cannot do what are you telling me, or maybe i'm wrong


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diobrando89*
> 
> what i need is an input, i got my ps3 connected to the mb and the 7.1 speakers connected to the mb.
> simply i cannot do what are you telling me, or maybe i'm wrong


You are trying to get sound from your PS3 to...your sound system - but trying to go via your motherboard?
You CANNOT go via your motherboard - unless there's some sort of device that allows INPUTS rather than OUTPUTS.

MY thoughts are:
Splitter by your green jack - then 3.5mm to RCA


----------



## v1x

anybody else getting really pished off with sabertooth bios? i'm having to reset my cmos alot due to multiplier getting stuck!









does any 1 have new on when they will be releasing new bios ?


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

I have been using Start 8 by Stardock. I boot straight to desktop instead of metro screen


----------



## tw1st

I had this happen to me, very annoying. Did not have to reset CMOS however, just unplugged from CPU and waited about 5 min, went back in and all was good.

I can only imagine what a nightmare getting the the CMOS battery is especially if its under the thermal armor.


----------



## [email protected]

Please update your list, i am currently running Sabretooth Ivy and i am liking it a lot. I have advice here. My bios is 1504 and do I have to update bios or is it only needed for serious overclockers?

Do you guys install the RECENT drivers too anyways or what?

I am up to date on Win 7 updates i am just wondering if these drivers at ASUS site is recommended and needed to be up to date but i am not having any issues here.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> I'm using the Noctua NH-D14, which has a 120mm fan + a 140mm fan. Both fans have 3-pin connectors. I have the 2 fans connected to the CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT headers on the motherboard.
> 
> BTW, the Noctua NH-D14 is an awesome air cooler - I am using that in place of my water cooling system, and seeing similar performance. My nominal CPU temperature is 29 DegC, and I max out at around 62 DegC under OCCT. Maybe the Noctua NH-D14 is not as great as a water cooler, but it is pretty close, and a lot quieter. I certainly couldn't get the nominal temperature lower with a water system, and I'm guessing that my peak water-cooled temperature would be in the lower 50's. But air cooling sure is a lot less fuss!


I'm about 90% certain you can't adjust the CPU_OPT header at all and that it runs the same the CPU_FAN. Also, CPU fan's are generally 4-pin. I bet if you changed to a 4-pin PWM fan, you would be able to control it. I'm not sure why you can adjust 3-pin fans on the other connectors and not the cpu. Does your bios have a temperature that the cpu is trying to stay around?

My H100 with 2 SP120 quiets is great. I've got the sp120s hooked up to my fan controller and even at the lowest setting, I can game and the 3770k stock never goes higher than 55c. It usually stays under 50. If I turn the fans to full blast it will stay in the 40s.

For me, The ease of installation and the ability to use tall ramsinks was worth it to me. The amount of real-estate freed up by not having a giant heatsink is wonderful. I never want to go back!

But to each his or her own.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> If you're talking custom loop, i would beg to differ. My OC'ed CPU at 1.35V tops at 41C in the same loop as my overvolted 590. But maybe I just have a lot of radiator space (6x 120mm anyone?) chock full of SP120 fans at 50%.
> 
> For the price, the NH-D14 is ridiculously cool running. And Noctua's fans are ugly and trout-colored, but man are they ever nice.


Ugly x2









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1x*
> 
> anybody else getting really pished off with sabertooth bios? i'm having to reset my cmos alot due to multiplier getting stuck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does any 1 have new on when they will be releasing new bios ?


Which bios are you running? How are you flashing?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Please update your list, i am currently running Sabretooth Ivy and i am liking it a lot. I have advice here. My bios is 1504 and do I have to update bios or is it only needed for serious overclockers?
> 
> Do you guys install the RECENT drivers too anyways or what?
> 
> I am up to date on Win 7 updates i am just wondering if these drivers at ASUS site is recommended and needed to be up to date but i am not having any issues here.


I recently installed the latest drivers from the manufacturer's websites. Intel, Nvidia, etc. The Asus site is pretty up to date, but it doesn't have the latest chipset, rapid storage, lan, or usb 3 drivers that Intel has on their site.

I'm still running bios 1504 and it seems to be solid for me.


----------



## tw1st

can anyone say what the CPU OPT port is for? Can I plug in any fan into there?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I'm about 90% certain you can't adjust the CPU_OPT header at all and that it runs the same the CPU_FAN. Also, CPU fan's are generally 4-pin. I bet if you changed to a 4-pin PWM fan, you would be able to control it. I'm not sure why you can adjust 3-pin fans on the other connectors and not the cpu. Does your bios have a temperature that the cpu is trying to stay around?
> 
> My H100 with 2 SP120 quiets is great. I've got the sp120s hooked up to my fan controller and even at the lowest setting, I can game and the 3770k stock never goes higher than 55c. It usually stays under 50. If I turn the fans to full blast it will stay in the 40s.
> 
> For me, The ease of installation and the ability to use tall ramsinks was worth it to me. The amount of real-estate freed up by not having a giant heatsink is wonderful. I never want to go back!
> 
> But to each his or her own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ugly x2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which bios are you running? How are you flashing?
> I recently installed the latest drivers from the manufacturer's websites. Intel, Nvidia, etc. The Asus site is pretty up to date, but it doesn't have the latest chipset, rapid storage, lan, or usb 3 drivers that Intel has on their site.
> 
> I'm still running bios 1504 and it seems to be solid for me.


I also need drivers for
SM Bus controller and Universal Serial bus (USB) controller
Cuz my device manager is showing the ! triangle sign.
Are there drivers for these at all?
Curious, what exactly did you download and update however?

I swore i saw a recent INtel chipset driver somewhere that was recent but i could be wrong.

Thanks for the tip. I knew about ASUS website though. I just didn't wanna mess anything cuz everything is solid with this board. Glad i registered it.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> can anyone say what the CPU OPT port is for? Can I plug in any fan into there?


It's the CPU FAN optional. It's basically for CPU coolers with 2 fans. You can, but it might only run as fast as your cpu fan, or it will run full blast all the time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I also need drivers for
> SM Bus controller and Universal Serial bus (USB) controller
> Cuz my device manager is showing the ! triangle sign.
> Are there drivers for these at all?
> Curious, what exactly did you download and update however?
> 
> I swore i saw a recent INtel chipset driver somewhere that was recent but i could be wrong.
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I knew about ASUS website though. I just didn't wanna mess anything cuz everything is solid with this board. Glad i registered it.


If you installed the intel usb3.0 drivers, then you are probably missing the ASMedia usb 3 and Sata drivers. I could only find those on the Asus website.

I installed Intel chipset drivers, Intel Usb 3 drivers, Intel Lan drivers, Intel Rapid Storage Technology drivers, and Intel Management Engine Drivers. I have a creative sound card, so I installed those from Creative. Nvidia geforce drivers. I installed the AsMedia's from the Asus Website.


----------



## [email protected]

Can you link me each please? I'm muli-tasking at the moment. Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> It's the CPU FAN optional. It's basically for CPU coolers with 2 fans. You can, but it might only run as fast as your cpu fan, or it will run full blast all the time.
> If you installed the intel usb3.0 drivers, then you are probably missing the ASMedia usb 3 and Sata drivers. I could only find those on the Asus website.
> 
> I installed Intel chipset drivers, Intel Usb 3 drivers, Intel Lan drivers, Intel Rapid Storage Technology drivers, and Intel Management Engine Drivers. I have a creative sound card, so I installed those from Creative. Nvidia geforce drivers. I installed the AsMedia's from the Asus Website.


As for the CPU fans i recommend EVERYONE install the FANS first before you put the motherboard in the case and oh do NOT forget the sticker too on the side of your motherboard! LAN sticker







Or you're stuck with unscrewing it off and popping the IO Panel while having your cooler intact sucks! xD lol.

Common mistake with everyone who owns this.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> It's the CPU FAN optional. It's basically for CPU coolers with 2 fans. You can, but it might only run as fast as your cpu fan, or it will run full blast all the time.
> If you installed the intel usb3.0 drivers, then you are probably missing the ASMedia usb 3 and Sata drivers. I could only find those on the Asus website.
> 
> I installed Intel chipset drivers, Intel Usb 3 drivers, Intel Lan drivers, Intel Rapid Storage Technology drivers, and Intel Management Engine Drivers. I have a creative sound card, so I installed those from Creative. Nvidia geforce drivers. I installed the AsMedia's from the Asus Website.


Did you had to do this before installing the newest network lan driver?

*Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver.
The URL of the Utility: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22026

Cuz Windows usually have drivers for your internet cable and modem.

What AsMedia driver are you getting from? I can't find it.
Also what is the Intel update firmware for? Is it recommended?


----------



## [email protected]

I notice the Intel Management Engine Firmware upgrade program is meant for WIndows 8. I don't see why you needed to install that if you had Windows 7 anyways?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Did you had to do this before installing the newest network lan driver?
> 
> *Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver.
> The URL of the Utility: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22026
> iGnOrE this lol.
> 
> I already have those installed however the Intel Management Engine Firmware upgrade program is under WIndows 7 64bit so i guess they put it there for a reason because this motherboard must have features for the Windows 8 thing i guess.


----------



## petabyte

Hi!
Can this mobo manage memory at 2400?. In official specs only 1866 and lower speeds are listed, is it true?


----------



## MKHunt

Tags:

Sabertooth
Z77
1866
RAM
Frequency
Max
2133
2400

Maybe people will search now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Holy mother of...
Received my Asus Z77 back...and the CID (customer induced damage) is so minimal...that it is laughable why Asus rejected a £170 board from being RMA'ed
Video to follow.

Highly suggest NOT buying this board.

EDIT:
here we go:


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Did you had to do this before installing the newest network lan driver?
> 
> *Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver.
> The URL of the Utility: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22026
> 
> Cuz Windows usually have drivers for your internet cable and modem.
> 
> What AsMedia driver are you getting from? I can't find it.
> Also what is the Intel update firmware for? Is it recommended?


Sorry, I'm at work, so I can't link you to every driver. If you go to intel's site, you can just search what I wrote in my previous post and the latest one will be compatible.

I did not do the NVM utility. I did the 17.4 or 5 lan driver.

AsMedia is found on the sabertooth z77 page on asus.com under downloads

You technically don't need the latest MEI because it is for windows 8 as well, but it will work on Win 7.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ...and oh do NOT forget the sticker too on the side of your motherboard! LAN sticker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you're stuck with unscrewing it off and popping the IO Panel while having your cooler intact sucks! xD lol.
> 
> Common mistake with everyone who owns this.


Yes! I most definitely agree. I forgot to do that myself. The good news is that I found out that with the tiniest of flathead screwdriver, some patience, and dexterity, you can get it off without having to take your mobo back out hehe.

As for everyone asking about updating your BIOS... I recommend not doing so unless you are having issues which are specifically solved in the chagelog of the newer BIOS revision. I also agree that certain drivers like Intel Rapid Storage should be downloaded from the Intel site.

As a quick tip... You can get the latest versions of AI Suite (and individual components including Fan Xpert 2!), Intel Rapid Storage, and other drivers by selecting the ROG Maximus V Extreme motherboard on the ASUS site and using those downloads.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Holy mother of...
> Received my Asus Z77 back...and the CID (customer induced damage) is so minimal...that it is laughable why Asus rejected a £170 board from being RMA'ed
> Video to follow.
> 
> Highly suggest NOT buying this board.


i feel your pain when i had to rma mine a month ago when the motherboard was dead (what we thought), i took it back to the shop where i got it from.they came the crap that their was a bent pin on the cpu part in which i know that their was not as i had the board checked all over by a mate who builds pc's and repairs for a living before i took it back to the shop.i argue the toss with them who then gave in and return it to asus as a rma.got it back from asus a week later and said that their was nothing wrong with it.the shop told me at 1st that they tried it on their test bench and it was dead.when they got it back they then tested it again and everything was working ok. only to find out that in the end it was my psu that failed wasn't drawing enough power through the rails. got a new psu and tested the sabertooth on a testbench all working fine

anyway totally Dubbed my set up is almost the same as yours i had the antec 920,and i had to take the 920 of the board and the same thing happen as yours with the serial number. i think asus done this on purpose.

while mine sabertooth was in for rma to asus i had to buy another motherboard (gigabyte) and am still using it now. so anyone want's to buy asus sabertooth z77.

i checked the cpu cooler holes on mine but seem to be ok


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i feel your pain when i had to rma mine a month ago when the motherboard was dead (what we thought), i took it back to the shop where i got it from.they came the crap that their was a bent pin on the cpu part in which i know that their was not as i had the board checked all over by a mate who builds pc's and repairs for a living before i took it back to the shop.i argue the toss with them who then gave in and return it to asus as a rma.got it back from asus a week later and said that their was nothing wrong with it.the shop told me at 1st that they tried it on their test bench and it was dead.when they got it back they then tested it again and everything was working ok. only to find out that in the end it was my psu that failed wasn't drawing enough power through the rails. got a new psu and tested the sabertooth on a testbench all working fine
> 
> anyway totally Dubbed my set up is almost the same as yours i had the antec 920,and i had to take the 920 of the board and the same thing happen as yours with the serial number. i think asus done this on purpose.
> 
> while mine sabertooth was in for rma to asus i had to buy another motherboard (gigabyte) and am still using it now. so anyone want's to buy asus sabertooth z77.
> 
> i checked the cpu cooler holes on mine but seem to be ok


+rep for the pics!

Yeah I've got it installed now - moment of truth - going to switch the RAM around. Currently on 8GB single channel as it was before.


----------



## jktmas

New Graphics Card. GTX 570 HD superclock


Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Holy mother of...
> Received my Asus Z77 back...and the CID (customer induced damage) is so minimal...that it is laughable why Asus rejected a £170 board from being RMA'ed
> Video to follow.
> 
> Highly suggest NOT buying this board.
> 
> EDIT:
> here we go:


How did the moment of truth go?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> New Graphics Card. GTX 570 HD superclock
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!


very sexy man!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> How did the moment of truth go?


Didn't work - I've tried everything now, even tried bending, un-bended pins - blowing, etc.
Right - BIOS flashing time.

Would a fresh install of windows.....could that affect it in anyway?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> very sexy man!
> Didn't work - I've tried everything now, even tried bending, un-bended pins - blowing, etc.
> Right - BIOS flashing time.
> 
> Would a fresh install of windows.....could that affect it in anyway?


If it's W7, it could. My friends Asrock board with a w7 install completely refused to boot until he fresh installed w8 on it. It would judt have the single underscore blinking in the top left corner for ages and ages.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> If it's W7, it could. My friends Asrock board with a w7 install completely refused to boot until he fresh installed w8 on it. It would judt have the single underscore blinking in the top left corner for ages and ages.


I'll try that as a last resort.
I'll install the speaker on it - the board speaker from the gigabyte/fractal 1000 case - see what the beep pattern is (if any)


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Holy mother of...
> Received my Asus Z77 back...and the CID (customer induced damage) is so minimal...that it is laughable why Asus rejected a £170 board from being RMA'ed
> Video to follow.
> Highly suggest NOT buying this board.


Ouch, thats the ASUS D


----------



## v1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Which bios are you running? How are you flashing?


running 1805 bios and using bios flash utility to install it.

load defaults,clear cmos, load bios.. set defaults, reeboot... flash bios, reeboot, set defaults. turn off, clear cmos... load defaults


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Can I buy a hammer already?
Bios wipe didn't work.
Now as I'm at uni, I can't connect to the network no more...says invalid physical address. My mac is 8888888 something like that, which is false. I've reinstall drivers and still no luck...now what...


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Can I buy a hammer already?
> Bios wipe didn't work.
> Now as I'm at uni, I can't connect to the network no more...says invalid physical address. My mac is 8888888 something like that, which is false. I've reinstall drivers and still no luck...now what...


Damn man you must cringe everytime you see or here "asus" now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Damn man you must cringe everytime you see or here "asus" now.


Almost...

Haha I'm a genius in terms of that physical address - googled how to edit a physical address.
Went into the registry - realised there was no physical address part in there.

I then, remembered my Xbox shares the same network address - however one can ONLY be connected at the same time - so copy and pasted that (as that was my PC's one)
Inputted that into the registry - et voila! I'm back online haha

Oh asus - you have to make life always difficult for me...


----------



## azture

Hello guys I have a slight problem and here it is.

I recently got an Asus z77 Sabortooth and since installing windows on it 4 of my case fans won't start. I am using a corsair h100i in push pull config but only one of the bottom fans and one of the top fans are turning. I have a corsair obsidian 800d case and out of the 3 fans in the top only 1 is spinning. The rear case fan, 2 fans on the h100i and one of the top mounted fans are not working. When I first boot up the computer they start but then turn off again, and before I installed windows all of the fans ran perfectly. Now only two are running and not even at full speed. I have tried using the AI suite but it just says 2 of my fans are at 0rpm and totally ignores the other 2 which arnt rotating. According to the AI suite all fans should be atleast running at 600 rpm but they are not. I have no idea how to stop what ever is turning off my fans. I even ran prime 95 and ramped my cpu up to 60+ degrees but all the fans remaind turned off. Can somebody please explain how I get them all to spin again?

System specs: (all new parts)
Asus z77 Sabortooth
Intel i7 3770k
8gb G.skill Ram
1050w psu
GTX 680

Corsair h100i
A total of 6 case fans but only 2 will operate, even under load. They where all fine before I put windows on.

I have the most up to date drivers.

PS. I don't have any fan plugged into the corsair block so you can rule that out as being the reason for turning the fans off, they are connected straight to the power, I did this to prevent the fans being adjusted but apparently it has not worked. Help please? I dont want to start using my computer properly until this is sorted.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Holy mother of...
> Received my Asus Z77 back...and the CID (customer induced damage) is so minimal...that it is laughable why Asus rejected a £170 board from being RMA'ed
> Video to follow.
> 
> Highly suggest NOT buying this board.
> 
> EDIT:
> here we go:


Policy was followed.....

Visual inspection showed CID, trace damage.
Asus will stop at that and contact the end user and present you options, OOW repair or send it back.

9 times out of 10 damage around the mounting holes would be ignored, like the circle impressions you sometimes see, however the gouging definitely raises a red flag.

My Antecs came with plastic washers to protect that area, yours did not?

Do you know if your board is zoned for the EU?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Policy was followed.....
> 
> Visual inspection showed CID, trace damage.
> Asus will stop at that and contact the end user and present you options, OOW repair or send it back.
> 
> 9 times out of 10 damage around the mounting holes would be ignored, like the circle impressions you sometimes see, however the gouging definitely raises a red flag.
> 
> My Antecs came with plastic washers to protect that area, yours did not?
> 
> Do you know if your board is zoned for the EU?


My antec came with metal washers which are (confirmed) to be used with the RAD and not the CPU mount.
As for EU zoned - what do you mean?

Also gouging? Please explain what you mean


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My antec came with metal washers which are (confirmed) to be used with the RAD and not the CPU mount.
> As for EU zoned - what do you mean?
> 
> Also gouging? Please explain what you mean


Zoned for Europe, pm me the s/n and I'll check.

Gouging, where the PCB is full on damaged.

I'm not talking about the metal washers, separate plastic washers came with mine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Zoned for Europe, pm me the s/n and I'll check.
> 
> Gouging, where the PCB is full on damaged.
> 
> I'm not talking about the metal washers, separate plastic washers came with mine.


Nop I didn't get any separate washers.
Antec 920 here.

Sure I'll PM you.


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> If you're talking custom loop, i would beg to differ. My OC'ed CPU at 1.35V tops at 41C in the same loop as my overvolted 590. But maybe I just have a lot of radiator space (6x 120mm anyone?) chock full of SP120 fans at 50%.
> 
> For the price, the NH-D14 is ridiculously cool running. And Noctua's fans are ugly and trout-colored, but man are they ever nice.


I was thinking that I'd be in the low to mid 40's with my custom loop, since I would max out in the low 50's when I was full-stressing my Core i7 920 with a TDP of 130W. Considering that the Core i7 3770 has a TDP of 77W, I was pretty sure I'd get quite a bit lower than 50 degC.

But, since I did not implement my water loop (yet), I couldn't say with certainty that I'd get any lower.

I may run a loop sometime in the future, but the Noctua is actually quieter than my water pump was (which was still pretty quiet). I only have 3 120mm fans that I ran at 40%, which was fine for keeping my old system cool. But when I start cranking while gaming, my nVida 560 Ti starts to get pretty noisy (Oh ... and hot, too!). I still use those fans to cool my case, still running at 40%.

I would like to water cool again someday. I already have all the equipment (GPU & CPU mounting adapters for my blocks, a cooling fin plate for my graphics card, water loop leakless quick disconnects, etc.) purchased and ready to go.

Oh, and about the Noctua looking butt-ugly - Yep, I've seen prettier.







That said, I really don't care that much. If somebody came up with an inexpensive cooling solution that worked as well as a water cooler - and it looked like a *real* butt - I'd be first in line to purchase one! For me, the only purpose for a cooler is to keep my CPU / GPU as chilly as possible. Looks are a nearly non-existent second.

AJ


----------



## kizwan

130W TDP basically means the CPU cooling system can dissipate up to 130W of heat (assuming the CPU cooling system is designed for 130W TDP) without exceeding the maximum junction temperature (TJmax) for the CPU. i7-920 TJmax is 100C while i7-3770K TJmax is 105C. Basically means the i7-920 can dissipate up to 130W of heat without exceeding TJmax 100C mark while i7-3770K can dissipate up to 77W of heat without exceeding TJmax 105C. As you can see, even though the 3770K has lower TDP but temperature is going to be a bit higher than i7-920.

EDIT: Sorry, I came up with wrong conclusion. Lower TDP basically means IVY is more power efficient than previous generation, however it doesn't necessarily means it will run a lot cooler (temperature wise) than CPU with 130W TDP.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *petabyte*
> 
> Hi!
> Can this mobo manage memory at 2400?. In official specs only 1866 and lower speeds are listed, is it true?


yes, im running Corsair vengence 2400mhz


----------



## CODELESS

So i updated my bios to 1805 now. seems very stable.
have not attempted yet to overclock again, waiting to get some proper fans for the H100i

i want to change something.
i have 2 x 128GB SSD's in Raid0, when the system starts up it checks the raid and you can see that by seeing the raid config.
now is there anyway for POST to skip that ? ass it adds like 3 seconds to my boot time
if memory serves me right, i wont be able to, in bios, change my sata settings from raid to achi after setting up my raid ?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> have not attempted yet to overclock again, waiting to get some proper fans for the H100i


H100i already come with proper fans, high static pressure 4mm/H20. If you want to change to other fans make sure static pressure is at least 3.X mm/H20.


----------



## smex

@ garikfox

how about adding one more part to ya first post with specific OC experiences and frequent
problems / solutions / recommendations or bios settings by the users here with their overclocks and stuff.. ?!


----------



## AzJazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> 130W TDP basically means the CPU cooling system can dissipate up to 130W of heat (assuming the CPU cooling system is designed for 130W TDP) without exceeding the maximum junction temperature (TJmax) for the CPU. i7-920 TJmax is 100C while i7-3770K TJmax is 105C. Basically means the i7-920 can dissipate up to 130W of heat without exceeding TJmax 100C mark while i7-3770K can dissipate up to 77W of heat without exceeding TJmax 105C. As you can see, even though the 3770K has lower TDP but temperature is going to be a bit higher than i7-920.
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, I came up with wrong conclusion. Lower TDP basically means IVY is more power efficient than previous generation, however it doesn't necessarily means it will run a lot cooler (temperature wise) than CPU with 130W TDP.


Hi, kizwan - I know what you are trying to say, but my thought was pretty simple on this: If the cooling loop on my old CPU would max out at 54 DegC when my CPU was cranking 115W of dissipated heat (of the 130W), and my new CPU only generates 67W (of the 77W) under full load, it makes sense that my cooling loop should easily keep the new CPU much cooler than 54 Deg because it only had to dissipate 60% of the heat that got it to 54 DegC. (Those wattage figures came from CoreeTemp when I was stress testing my system). When my Core i7 920 was generating around 67W, my cooling system was probably getting the CPU cooled to the low 40's.

On top of that, my new nVidia 560 Ti GPU runs cooler (on average) than my previous GTX 285, so my cooling loop may have been able to do even better than that.

AJ


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Zoned for Europe, pm me the s/n and I'll check.
> 
> Gouging, where the PCB is full on damaged.
> 
> I'm not talking about the metal washers, separate plastic washers came with mine.


I had been wondering about this.

Had there been washers, I feel like all of this wouldn't have happened.

My h100 doesn't have washers, but then again, the mounts are super skinny and go straight into the backplate.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzJazz*
> 
> Hi, kizwan - I know what you are trying to say, but my thought was pretty simple on this: If the cooling loop on my old CPU would max out at 54 DegC when my CPU was cranking 115W of dissipated heat (of the 130W), and my new CPU only generates 67W (of the 77W) under full load, it makes sense that my cooling loop should easily keep the new CPU much cooler than 54 Deg because it only had to dissipate 60% of the heat that got it to 54 DegC. (Those wattage figures came from CoreeTemp when I was stress testing my system). When my Core i7 920 was generating around 67W, my cooling system was probably getting the CPU cooled to the low 40's.
> 
> On top of that, my new nVidia 560 Ti GPU runs cooler (on average) than my previous GTX 285, so my cooling loop may have been able to do even better than that.
> 
> AJ


The wattage reported (Power) is supposed to be CPU power consumption not TDP. (However the power wattage reported by software is not accurate because it was based on VID voltage not the actual voltage. Don't rely on the software for CPU power consumption.) TDP is the amount of heat the cooling system need to dissipate. Lower TDP on IVY doesn't means temperature will be lower than CPU with 130W TDP. The difference in dies size between previous generation & IVY also need to take into account when comparing temperature between the two. The IVY, with the improved manufacturing process technology, has smaller dies size which is why it has lower TDP than previous generation. It doesn't means IVY, using similar cooling system & running at the same frequency, will run at lower temperature than previous gen CPU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Video of me wiping the bios/re-writing the bios (private link)


----------



## [email protected]

I'm glad i switched to Ivy Bridge cuz it's a new experience how it functions and i gotta say it's the solid motherboard around today. I'm fairly impressed and can't wait til technology gets solid such as Quantum Computing.

I have an 3750k unlocked processor and i heard good rumors they overclock well. I don't intend to right now because i rather research enough information on it. I know there are other owners out there with the same processor. I always wondered how far can this processor go? 4.8ghz? So far i know of.

I want to get another IVY for another build and do FULL custom LOOP. I never done a full loop and would like to at least try and experience it. Especially the maintenance itself. I know it may be tedious but fun.

Which is why i perfer self liquid. My older rig had H70 and it ran well for more than 3 years, which is quite good for a self sealed pump lol.

Do you think they intend to make more THERMAL motherboards like this and go to the extreme for better cooling on every component? I wonder what ASUS is gonna do next.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Video of me wiping the bios/re-writing the bios (private link)


It's extremely disturbing that this is done....in Windows. That's just asking for trouble.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I'm glad i switched to Ivy Bridge cuz it's a new experience how it functions and i gotta say it's the solid motherboard around today. I'm fairly impressed and can't wait til technology gets solid such as Quantum Computing.
> 
> I have an 3750k unlocked processor and i heard good rumors they overclock well. I don't intend to right now because i rather research enough information on it. I know there are other owners out there with the same processor. I always wondered how far can this processor go? 4.8ghz? So far i know of.
> 
> I want to get another IVY for another build and do FULL custom LOOP. I never done a full loop and would like to at least try and experience it. Especially the maintenance itself. I know it may be tedious but fun.
> 
> Which is why i perfer self liquid. My older rig had H70 and it ran well for more than 3 years, which is quite good for a self sealed pump lol.
> 
> Do you think they intend to make more THERMAL motherboards like this and go to the extreme for better cooling on every component? I wonder what ASUS is gonna do next.


i5-3570k will probably only get to 4.5 - 4.7 You need heavy duty cooling or to de-lid to go higher. i7-3770k can generally go higher. My i7 requires less voltage than my i5 does.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> It's extremely disturbing that this is done....in Windows. That's just asking for trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5-3570k will probably only get to 4.5 - 4.7 You need heavy duty cooling or to de-lid to go higher. i7-3770k can generally go higher. My i7 requires less voltage than my i5 does.


It was said to do it in windows by another user.
So I followed the users guide, that's it









If I knew other means of doing it, then by all mean I would have.


----------



## T S D

Well, since reading this thread from beginning to end, I finally decided to take the plunge and buy one today. Picked it up with an i7-3770K and the Corsair Dominator Platinum 2x8 1866 ram. Already got the AX1200i so all I need now is the GTX690 and start sourcing a custom water loop.

I probably won't have any questions since it seems like you guys have answered them all but you never know.

As long as I don't release the "magic smoke" I should be fine!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Zoned for Europe, pm me the s/n and I'll check.
> 
> Gouging, where the PCB is full on damaged.
> 
> I'm not talking about the metal washers, separate plastic washers came with mine.
> 
> 
> 
> I had been wondering about this.
> 
> Had there been washers, I feel like all of this wouldn't have happened.
> 
> My h100 doesn't have washers, but then again, the mounts are super skinny and go straight into the backplate.
Click to expand...

mine antec 920 never came with washers either,but having said that you should n't need them any way as the back plate lugs fits ok with the cpu mount screws.the only thing i can think off ( am not saying he did but their is a small chance he could have over tighten without knowing )

but at the end of the day it's done now, the only other thing he could do is be cheeky and sell it on fleabay as sold as seen , no return Accepted but dont show any pic's of the damage, you never know some someone will buy it at least you get some ££ back back:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> mine antec 920 never came with washers either,but having said that you should n't need them any way as the back plate lugs fits ok with the cpu mount screws.the only thing i can think off ( am not saying he did but their is a small chance he could have over tighten without knowing )
> 
> but at the end of the day it's done now, the only other thing he could do is be cheeky and sell it on fleabay as sold as seen , no return Accepted but dont show any pic's of the damage, you never know some someone will buy it at least you get some ££ back back:thumb:


I would never scam an individual.
I would say it as it is. No warranty, not working DIMM slots - everything else works.

As for the tightening - no I didn't I think I just "missed" the hole (lol) when inserting the antec 920 with some force (I presume)

Over-tightening (which is almost impossible with the antec 920 mount) would have cracked the poor "tuf" board lol


----------



## v1x

any reason why you use 1504 tottaly dubbed?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1x*
> 
> any reason why you use 1504 tottaly dubbed?


because the user that did his used it, and that's the BIOS I got mine flashed with.
After I did it, and it didn't affect anything, I then re-flashed 1805 via AI suite 2


----------



## v1x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> because the user that did his used it, and that's the BIOS I got mine flashed with.
> After I did it, and it didn't affect anything, I then re-flashed 1805 via AI suite 2


np buddy, do you have any problems with the multiplier getting "stuck" with 1805?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1x*
> 
> np buddy, do you have any problems with the multiplier getting "stuck" with 1805?


I've had that once, after trying many OC settings - just reflashed the bios and all was good.


----------



## billythekid2012

Where is a clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O on this motherboard

http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&p=1&s=39&os=&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ&no=1723

There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.

do you guys know where it is i see the flash back button


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Where is a clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O on this motherboard
> 
> http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&p=1&s=39&os=&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ&no=1723
> 
> There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 
> do you guys know where it is i see the flash back button


this?!


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> this?!


Thats to flash the bios not to clear the cmoss


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Thats to flash the bios not to clear the cmoss


should come to the same in the end









.. no serious, does the z77 sabertooth have a backup bios and u can mess it up 100 times like a fool?!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Where is a clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O on this motherboard
> 
> http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z77&p=1&s=39&os=&hashedid=wMYmwl5uuG2ml3jJ&no=1723
> 
> There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 
> do you guys know where it is i see the flash back button


I don't think there is clear CMOS button at the back I/O. There is only clear CMOS jumper on the motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> .. no serious, does the z77 sabertooth have a backup bios and u can mess it up 100 times like a fool?!


No backup BIOS but the flashback button should be able to recover corrupted BIOS. The motherboard also have ASUS CrashFree BIOS feature. However I've seen a couple of case where even these two features failed to bring back bricked motherboard.


----------



## billythekid2012

so the is no clear cmos switch on the i/o shild like asus says just
the jumper on the board.

there are so many things bad about this board


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> so the is no clear cmos switch on the i/o shild like asus says just
> the jumper on the board.
> 
> there are so many things bad about this board


"Your" board... right? Just wanted to clear this up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah there's only the jumper.
The actual cmos battery is covered


----------



## billythekid2012

the link i posted from asus said there is a clear cmos switch clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O

on the z77 sabertooth and there is not don't they even know there owne boards

So i wanted to find out how to hard reset the board or bios and it say to take out the battery and put it in backwards for a few minutes

so to just get a the battery i have to rip my hole pc a part .

To me this is not a overclocking board

no led no restart or power button on the board

But the battery nis the big one how dumb can they be

why did'nt the make a remove able cover where the battery is

I fell sorry for the guys that run water and have to rip it out to get to the battery

i will never buy another tuf board again

i did have a p67 deluxe and loved it bu the tuf boards suck


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> the link i posted from asus said there is a clear cmos switch clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O
> 
> on the z77 sabertooth and there is not don't they even know there owne boards
> 
> So i wanted to find out how to hard reset the board or bios and it say to take out the battery and put it in backwards for a few minutes
> 
> so to just get a the battery i have to rip my hole pc a part .
> 
> To me this is not a overclocking board
> 
> no led no restart or power button on the board
> 
> But the battery nis the big one how dumb can they be
> 
> why did'nt the make a remove able cover where the battery is
> 
> I fell sorry for the guys that run water and have to rip it out to get to the battery
> 
> i will never buy another tuf board again
> 
> i did have a p67 deluxe and loved it bu the tuf boards suck


I know your feeling bro...
But to hard reset - simply use the jumper and then flash a new bios.


----------



## chillidog

the cmos switch is the jumper,be carefull how you go about do this as it can get a bit of a fiddle and also the pins can be easy bent . and also make sure you got a good grip of the jumper as i did found out as the jumper slip out of my fingers and also out of a pair of long-nose pliers twice and got wedge under the black motherboard cover.but i got big fingers anyway

THIS IS A COPY AND PASTE OF AN WEB SITE:

How to clear CMOS

There is CMOS Jumper :
1.) Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
2.) Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 ( default ) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 5-10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.

3.) Plug in the power cord and turn ON the computer.
4.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.

EDIT: THEIR IS NO CMOS JUMPER SWITCH ON THE BACK AT ALL ON THIS MOTHERBOARD

Note :
1. The "clr CMOS" switch will not function if the CLRTC_SW jumper is moved to the disable position.
2. Ensure to re-enter your previous BIOS settings after you clear the CMOS.
3. You do not need to clear the RTC when the system hangs due to CPU overclocking. With the C.P.R.( CPU Parameter Recall ) feature, shut down and reboot the system so the BIOS can automatically reset CPU parameter settings to default values.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

"I stand by it, I guarantee it, I know that, even if they don't know the chairman at General Mills":
http://www.overclock.net/products/asus-sabertooth-z77-atx-intel-motherboard/reviews/5465

Updated my review to reflect my feelings towards the board/service.


----------



## billythekid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> the cmos switch is the jumper,be carefull how you go about do this as it can get a bit of a fiddle and also the pins can be easy bent . and also make sure you got a good grip of the jumper as i did found out as the jumper slip out of my fingers and also out of a pair of long-nose pliers twice and got wedge under the black motherboard cover.but i got big fingers anyway
> 
> How to clear CMOS
> 
> There is CMOS Jumper :
> 1.) Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
> 2.) Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 ( default ) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 5-10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
> 
> 3.) Plug in the power cord and turn ON the computer.
> 4.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.
> 
> There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 1.) Press down the "clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O.
> 2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.
> ( It is the CLRTC_SW jumper )
> 
> Note :
> 1. The "clr CMOS" switch will not function if the CLRTC_SW jumper is moved to the disable position.
> 2. Ensure to re-enter your previous BIOS settings after you clear the CMOS.
> 3. You do not need to clear the RTC when the system hangs due to CPU overclocking. With the C.P.R.( CPU Parameter Recall ) feature, shut down and reboot the system so the BIOS can automatically reset CPU parameter settings to default values.


so why does asus say there is one on the i/o shild (There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.

1.) Press down the "clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O.
2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.]


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> so why does asus say there is one on the i/o shild (There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 
> 1.) Press down the "clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O.
> 2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.]


I know I got confused at first too, and pressed the bios button to try and see - must be for another motherboard...or as you said, they don't know their product very well


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> the cmos switch is the jumper,be carefull how you go about do this as it can get a bit of a fiddle and also the pins can be easy bent . and also make sure you got a good grip of the jumper as i did found out as the jumper slip out of my fingers and also out of a pair of long-nose pliers twice and got wedge under the black motherboard cover.but i got big fingers anyway
> 
> How to clear CMOS
> 
> There is CMOS Jumper :
> 1.) Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
> 2.) Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 ( default ) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 5-10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
> 
> 3.) Plug in the power cord and turn ON the computer.
> 4.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.
> 
> There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 1.) Press down the "clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O.
> 2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.
> ( It is the CLRTC_SW jumper )
> 
> Note :
> 1. The "clr CMOS" switch will not function if the CLRTC_SW jumper is moved to the disable position.
> 2. Ensure to re-enter your previous BIOS settings after you clear the CMOS.
> 3. You do not need to clear the RTC when the system hangs due to CPU overclocking. With the C.P.R.( CPU Parameter Recall ) feature, shut down and reboot the system so the BIOS can automatically reset CPU parameter settings to default values.


This.


----------



## gabecubano14

Anybody have an idea of what the best, most stable drivers are for this machine? I'm running the newest beta ahci drivers for it but can someone recommend the best drivers for:

Ahci
Usb
Chipset
Lan
Intel Management Engine

Thanks,
Gabriel


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> the cmos switch is the jumper,be carefull how you go about do this as it can get a bit of a fiddle and also the pins can be easy bent . and also make sure you got a good grip of the jumper as i did found out as the jumper slip out of my fingers and also out of a pair of long-nose pliers twice and got wedge under the black motherboard cover.but i got big fingers anyway
> 
> How to clear CMOS
> 
> There is CMOS Jumper :
> 1.) Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
> 2.) Move the jumper cap from pins 1-2 ( default ) to pins 2-3. Keep the cap on pins 2-3 for about 5-10 seconds, then move the cap back to pins 1-2.
> 
> 3.) Plug in the power cord and turn ON the computer.
> 4.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.
> 
> There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 1.) Press down the "clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O.
> 2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.
> ( It is the CLRTC_SW jumper )
> 
> Note :
> 1. The "clr CMOS" switch will not function if the CLRTC_SW jumper is moved to the disable position.
> 2. Ensure to re-enter your previous BIOS settings after you clear the CMOS.
> 3. You do not need to clear the RTC when the system hangs due to CPU overclocking. With the C.P.R.( CPU Parameter Recall ) feature, shut down and reboot the system so the BIOS can automatically reset CPU parameter settings to default values.
> 
> 
> 
> so why does asus say there is one on the i/o shild (There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
> 
> 1.) Press down the "clr CMOS" switch on the back I/O.
> 2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.]
Click to expand...

i googled asus sabertooth z77 cmos switch location to see what will come up from an asus location and above crop up so i copy and pasted it . but as we all know that their is no cmos switch on the back of the motherboard so someone who did this reveiw don't know jack ****.

the clrtc-sw funtion detail is on page chapter 2-14 of the user guide.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i googled asus sabertooth z77 cmos switch location to see what will come up from an asus location and above crop up so i copy and pasted it . but as we all know that their is no cmos switch on the back of the motherboard so someone who did this reveiw don't know jack ****.
> 
> the clrtc-sw funtion detail is on page chapter 2-14 of the user guide.


I actually remembered reading it int he manual - but I read through it just now again - and there's no mention of a switch at the back.
I vividly remember thinking - what the heck is it saying - there's no switch....wait does the bios thing do anything? Let me press it anyway.

I did read that somewhere - and I'm pretty sure it was via an official source.


----------



## hckedbyrssians

Hi z77 sabertooth i73773 16 gb ram. Working fine for 6 months went to change heatsink and now when press power lights up for second and shuts off right away. I took mobo out of case and tried to power up w just ram and psu and same thing. Tried resetting CMOS. No Luck. Thoughts?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hckedbyrssians*
> 
> Hi z77 sabertooth i73773 16 gb ram. Working fine for 6 months went to change heatsink and now when press power lights up for second and shuts off right away. I took mobo out of case and tried to power up w just ram and psu and same thing. Tried resetting CMOS. No Luck. Thoughts?


You really need to explain your pc specs more before posting your mistakes. You said you moved it out of the case? I hope you remember to the basics when you start your build. Always ground yourself.


----------



## AerieAngel

The memOK button can be used as a clear CMOS mechanism. It does not remove user saved profiles which is nice.


----------



## iARDAs

I Know 3 way SLI is not recommended for our board

What about 2Way SLI and a dedicated Physx GPU?


----------



## taafe

Has anybody update there bios? If so did you notice any improvements? I've not heard anything good about updating but surely asus can't mess that up?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Had no gain nor loss of updating the bios myself
Abs yeah 2 way sli won't be a problem


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Had no gain nor loss of updating the bios myself
> Abs yeah 2 way sli won't be a problem


.. yea bios update. if you want a reset, just flash it








when i had problems did not even try reseting the uefi.
i just plugged out the power cable from the psu and hold the
power on button on the rig for about 30 seconds. the asus cards got
green power leds on tat the very top, what is nice because i dont have
to look under the board to see if all juice is out..


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I Know 3 way SLI is not recommended for our board
> 
> What about 2Way SLI and a dedicated Physx GPU?


If you do not use the PCIEx1 slots, that will work fine. Once the 3rd PCIE slot is populated, to run at x4 the PCIEx1 slots will be dropped to PCIE1.0 speeds.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I Know 3 way SLI is not recommended for our board
> 
> What about 2Way SLI and a dedicated Physx GPU?


The PhysX card would run at x4, but yes you can totally do this.


----------



## kRze.baLLiN!

Hey all -

I just rebuilt my PC this week and picked up a Sabertooth Z77. Very sexy piece of hardware. I have a question, and sorry if this has been answered before. When I first power on my PC, the CPU fans (H80) spin up really really high for about 30 secs and are loud and then slow down to normal. Why is that?


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kRze.baLLiN!*
> 
> Hey all -
> 
> I just rebuilt my PC this week and picked up a Sabertooth Z77. Very sexy piece of hardware. I have a question, and sorry if this has been answered before. When I first power on my PC, the CPU fans (H80) spin up really really high for about 30 secs and are loud and then slow down to normal. Why is that?


this is because when the PC starts it must be granted that all fans get enough power to power up..
on slow fan profiles there is a chance that a fan does not start and therefor this feature exists.

i´d make sure that the pump is on a fan connector that is always on 100%.. for the fan on the radiator you can set
it depending on your needs/OC


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> If you do not use the PCIEx1 slots, that will work fine. Once the 3rd PCIE slot is populated, to run at x4 the PCIEx1 slots will be dropped to PCIE1.0 speeds.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> The PhysX card would run at x4, but yes you can totally do this.


My ultimate configuration would be

A Creative Sound Blaster Zx soundcard on the uppoer slot (removed the turbo fan)

2 670s in SLI

and a Phsyx card

In this case though this would be a problem right?

Also should I remove my soundcard to the bottom PCI SLOT (the ones that are bigger in length) instead of the smaller length ones?

+rep both


----------



## iARDAs

Here is what I mean


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Here is what I mean


I think so. I believe if you want PCIE2.0x4 in the bottom full length slot, it drops the PCIE mode on the x1 slots to PCIE 1.0. I don't know whether or not the creative card would run at those speeds. I think it would, since other sound cards still run on PCI (See Xonar D1, etc).

In BIOS, there is a setting under the chipset that lets you dictate the speed of the x1 slots. YOu could quickly change that to PCIE1.0 and see if the sound card still works.

If you don't have a ZxR yet, let me know and I can try with my TiHD.

ETA: I just checked in BIOS. If the third slot is at x4 mode, all the mini slots are disabled. It can run at x1 mode though? I'm not sure how x1 would handle physX


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I think so. I believe if you want PCIE2.0x4 in the bottom full length slot, it drops the PCIE mode on the x1 slots to PCIE 1.0. I don't know whether or not the creative card would run at those speeds. I think it would, since other sound cards still run on PCI (See Xonar D1, etc).
> 
> In BIOS, there is a setting under the chipset that lets you dictate the speed of the x1 slots. YOu could quickly change that to PCIE1.0 and see if the sound card still works.
> 
> If you don't have a ZxR yet, let me know and I can try with my TiHD.
> 
> ETA: I just checked in BIOS. If the third slot is at x4 mode, all the mini slots are disabled. It can run at x1 mode though? I'm not sure how x1 would handle physX


Thanks for the answer bro.

+rep

Well I might be upgrading to Hashwell in the summer and this setup I am talking about will not happen until summer.

Perhaps I might just go with 670 SLI first and than with a new motherboard and hashwell chip, I can try Physx GPU.

I think this would be the safest thing to do.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanks for the answer bro.
> 
> +rep
> 
> Well I might be upgrading to Hashwell in the summer and this setup I am talking about will not happen until summer.
> 
> Perhaps I might just go with 670 SLI first and than with a new motherboard and hashwell chip, I can try Physx GPU.
> 
> I think this would be the safest thing to do.


Or do what I plan on doing and sit on Ivy til later this year and go SLI 780/880 or single 790/890







I think that combo would outperform the same GPU with a new mobo and cpu quite handily!

Sandy Bridge bottlenecks almost literally nothing, Ivy Bridge even less (esp. with the beefier memory controller) so it's hard (at least for me) to keep upgrading.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanks for the answer bro.
> 
> +rep
> 
> Well I might be upgrading to Hashwell in the summer and this setup I am talking about will not happen until summer.
> 
> Perhaps I might just go with 670 SLI first and than with a new motherboard and hashwell chip, I can try Physx GPU.
> 
> I think this would be the safest thing to do.


Or do what I plan on doing and sit on Ivy til later this year and go SLI 780/880 or single 790/890









Sandy Bridge bottlenecks almost literally nothing, Ivy Bridge even less (esp. with the beefier memory controller) so it's hard (at least for me) to keep upgrading.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looks good to me arda! Beats setup btw! Do you really need the dedicated physX though?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Or do what I plan on doing and sit on Ivy til later this year and go SLI 780/880 or single 790/890
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that combo would outperform the same GPU with a new mobo and cpu quite handily!
> 
> Sandy Bridge bottlenecks almost literally nothing, Ivy Bridge even less (esp. with the beefier memory controller) so it's hard (at least for me) to keep upgrading.


That is also another option.

Maybe I will keep the MOBO and the CPU and grab a 790 (if it is 4GB ram per GPU)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Looks good to me arda! Beats setup btw! Do you really need the dedicated physX though?


Actually I dont. Maybe I need to spend the Phsyx money somewhere else.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> That is also another option.
> 
> Maybe I will keep the MOBO and the CPU and grab a 790 (if it is 4GB ram per GPU)
> Actually I dont. Maybe I need to spend the Phsyx money somewhere else.


yeah two GTX680's is ALREADY overkill - unless you are running 3 monitors at 1440p and wanting 60+ FPS

A dedicated PhysX can be el cheapo card for like £50 - and that will do the job - a 560ti is way too much for just dedicated physX - almost like wasting it - in fact running 3 way sli will probably do it better.


----------



## MKHunt

This board makes some sweet, sweet love to memory.

http://www.sisoftware.eu/rank2011d/show_run.php?q=c2ffcefddbbadbe6d3eadfebdff98bb686a0c5a09dad8bf8c5f5


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> So i updated my bios to 1805 now. seems very stable.
> have not attempted yet to overclock again, waiting to get some proper fans for the H100i
> 
> i want to change something.
> i have 2 x 128GB SSD's in Raid0, when the system starts up it checks the raid and you can see that by seeing the raid config.
> now is there anyway for POST to skip that ? ass it adds like 3 seconds to my boot time
> if memory serves me right, i wont be able to, in bios, change my sata settings from raid to achi after setting up my raid ?


Hey man i just went through this. It is a setting in the sata department in bios. After this open house I will go home and check.

Ok so in the Boot tab. In option rom messages. I set it to "Keep current" Got rid of the raid menu for me.


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I Know 3 way SLI is not recommended for our board
> 
> What about 2Way SLI and a dedicated Physx GPU?


Try it and see what happens


----------



## tw1st

Hey guys,

Quick question about the CPU OPT port on the mobo.

I recently acquired a hyper 212 evo, connected the main fan to the CPU FAN (which works fine, mobo throttles it according to temps.) I also connected a second for the cooler for a push/pull config, and the second fan is connected to the CPU OPT port. It seems anything connected to the CPU OPT port just runs at full RPM all the time. Is there no way to control the CPU OPT port?

I would normally connect it to a cha fan port and be able to throttle it that way, but I'm using all those already for case fans.

Any ideas?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Quick question about the CPU OPT port on the mobo.
> 
> I recently acquired a hyper 212 evo, connected the main fan to the CPU FAN (which works fine, mobo throttles it according to temps.) I also connected a second for the cooler for a push/pull config, and the second fan is connected to the CPU OPT port. It seems anything connected to the CPU OPT port just runs at full RPM all the time. Is there no way to control the CPU OPT port?
> 
> I would normally connect it to a cha fan port and be able to throttle it that way, but I'm using all those already for case fans.
> 
> Any ideas?


That's the problem I had with CPU OPT too.
Your best best would be to plug it into CHAS header


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's the problem I had with CPU OPT too.
> Your best best would be to plug it into CHAS header


Thanks for the reply!

Bah! Alright then, shouldn't be too much of an issue in that case. Since I'm already using all the CHAS headers already I'm going to order a PWM fan splitter and connect both fans into CPU_FAN, newegg has them for only $4.

Here's to hoping they have a nice BIOS update one day to include control for CPU_OPT, or just make CPU_OPT run the same setting that CPU_FAN has.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
> 
> Bah! Alright then, shouldn't be too much of an issue in that case. Since I'm already using all the CHAS headers already I'm going to order a PWM fan splitter and connect both fans into CPU_FAN, newegg has them for only $4.
> 
> Here's to hoping they have a nice BIOS update one day to include control for CPU_OPT, or just make CPU_OPT run the same setting that CPU_FAN has.


yeah that's a good shout- I've still yet to understand what the heck is CPU OPT - opt stands for optional - which would mean two fans on the CPU fan...but it simply doesn't work...so no idea here


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabecubano14*
> 
> Anybody have an idea of what the best, most stable drivers are for this machine? I'm running the newest beta ahci drivers for it but can someone recommend the best drivers for:
> 
> Ahci
> Usb
> Chipset
> Lan
> Intel Management Engine
> 
> Thanks,
> Gabriel


This has been answered previously (like 2 pages ago), please use the search function.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4980_30#post_19396667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yeah that's a good shout- I've still yet to understand what the heck is CPU OPT - opt stands for optional - which would mean two fans on the CPU fan...but it simply doesn't work...so no idea here


I just built a machine for a buddy with an AsRock extreme 4 and it has the cpu opt fan as well. It seems to keep it at the same speed as the CPU fan though which is nice.

For some reason the OPT fan on the Asus board doesn't need to do anything but run at full speed. I suppose that's good if you plug the the h100 pump into it or something. I plugged the pump into the PWR Fan plug on the ASRock board.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Could someone let me know how to remove the armour?

EDIT:
Removed it - took 8 screws and it came out without ANY trouble - here are some pictures - couldn't find ANY pictures of anyone taking it off, even though people have said they have theirs off.
I'm thinking - would it be better with it off if you don't use those annoying mini fans?
The look doesn't concern me at all - and the thermal armor feels like cheap Chinese plastic with a cool look to it.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Could someone let me know how to remove the armour?


There are screws on the bottom.


----------



## MKHunt

I'm pretty sure it would be about the same. Probably slightly lower VRM temps, but they're never high enough to affect proper operation anyway.


----------



## MKHunt

EDIT: Sigh. Naos is being retired due to double click issue until firmware is fixed I guess.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> There are screws on the bottom.


YUP! found bro cheers anyway


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Could someone let me know how to remove the armour?
> 
> EDIT:
> Removed it - took 8 screws and it came out without ANY trouble - here are some pictures - couldn't find ANY pictures of anyone taking it off, even though people have said they have theirs off.
> I'm thinking - would it be better with it off if you don't use those annoying mini fans?
> The look doesn't concern me at all - and the thermal armor feels like cheap Chinese plastic with a cool look to it.
> 
> ]


Woot!

Good job!

Slightly lower temps.

The beauty of the armor is the look and just basic protection. I've dropped plenty of screws onto the board. I've had screwdrivers slip. Although, I suppose screws could roll under the armor.
The dimm slot covers, pcie covers are all very nice and effective. It's still a very nice looking board even without the armor. It's your call really, but I think your build will look better with it on.

Also, I still feel like you could fix those traces if you wanted to


----------



## jktmas

I feel like 5 years from now, under the thermal armour is going to look like those super old computers clogged with dust


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I think I might remove it to be honest...I dunno I'll see


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I feel like 5 years from now, under the thermal armour is going to look like those super old computers clogged with dust


Think of it as being full of tiny fragments of memories.


----------



## Solonowarion

It looks pretty good without it really. When I get bored I might take mine off and compare temps.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Hey man i just went through this. It is a setting in the sata department in bios. After this open house I will go home and check.
> 
> Ok so in the Boot tab. In option rom messages. I set it to "Keep current" Got rid of the raid menu for me.


Worked like a BOMB ! thanks man, +rep,
my load up time has dropped by like 10 seconds, Raid0 SSD are the best !!!!
i didnt time it as i did it in the morning just before work so did one load and check if Raid menu was gone, which it was, YaY !


----------



## Tiyako

Hello everyone!

I'm new to the Z77 sabertooth family~
i'm not much of an expert to computer building.
But i have a question hopefully i can get an answer to.
I am currently using a Corsair 500R Case with Z77 Sabertooth with Corsair H100 water cooling on it,
also planning to install Noctua NF-F12 fan to replace the corsair stock fan for the h100 radiator to reduce noise.
But i heard that connecting the fans to the h100 water block does not control the fans speed correctly.
Any suggestions how i can connect the fans to the motherboard and perhaps i can control it with asus suite software to control the fan speed?

Thank you very much,
Tiyako


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Woot!
> 
> Good job!
> 
> Slightly lower temps.
> 
> The beauty of the armor is the look and just basic protection. I've dropped plenty of screws onto the board. I've had screwdrivers slip. Although, I suppose screws could roll under the armor.
> The dimm slot covers, pcie covers are all very nice and effective. It's still a very nice looking board even without the armor. It's your call really, but I think your build will look better with it on.
> 
> Also, I still feel like you could fix those traces if you wanted to


im sure he can fix them, looks like only one tracer was damaged, on the corner, and there isnt another one close to it, i would try dropping a small drop of solder to make to two ends of the tracer connect.


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiyako*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I'm new to the Z77 sabertooth family~
> i'm not much of an expert to computer building.
> But i have a question hopefully i can get an answer to.
> I am currently using a Corsair 500R Case with Z77 Sabertooth with Corsair H100 water cooling on it,
> also planning to install Noctua NF-F12 fan to replace the corsair stock fan for the h100 radiator to reduce noise.
> But i heard that connecting the fans to the h100 water block does not control the fans speed correctly.
> Any suggestions how i can connect the fans to the motherboard and perhaps i can control it with asus suite software to control the fan speed?
> 
> Thank you very much,
> Tiyako


Not sure about Asus Suite since I've never used it myself, everything I do is within the BIOS. I know if you plug in the fans into any of the FAN_CHA (1-4) headers, you can go into BIOS and change some settings like Silent, Turbo, Default, or manual, I believe the one you will want is manual since it should let you set up different speeds according to the temp. I might be mistaken though. Check it out.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Chose to keep on the plastic thermal cover just for looks.
I saw a video with a guy with a P67:
Best temps:
Thermal armor + fans
Medium:
No armor, no fans
Worst:
Armour + no fans

I don't really care all that much about the temps of the board - they were fine for over 80hrs of folding.
And the difference between fans and no fans (both with armor) was less than 5c for a 4hr+ blend test on P95.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiyako*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I'm new to the Z77 sabertooth family~
> i'm not much of an expert to computer building.
> But i have a question hopefully i can get an answer to.
> I am currently using a Corsair 500R Case with Z77 Sabertooth with Corsair H100 water cooling on it,
> also planning to install Noctua NF-F12 fan to replace the corsair stock fan for the h100 radiator to reduce noise.
> But i heard that connecting the fans to the h100 water block does not control the fans speed correctly.
> Any suggestions how i can connect the fans to the motherboard and perhaps i can control it with asus suite software to control the fan speed?
> Tiyako


I have that same setup only with a 600T case. I recommend plugging the fans into the CHA headers on the motherboard anyway and not the water block/pump. AI Suite II has Fan Xpert 2 which you can download from the ASUS Maximus V Extreme motherboard support page online. The H100 pump will have a single wire voltage readout that is will have to be plugged into the cpu_fan header so that the board will boot. That is also readable in Fan Xpert 2, but you can not change the pump speed. The only way to do that would be to undervolt it.
Hope this helps; let me know if you have any other questions.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiyako*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I'm new to the Z77 sabertooth family~
> i'm not much of an expert to computer building.
> But i have a question hopefully i can get an answer to.
> I am currently using a Corsair 500R Case with Z77 Sabertooth with Corsair H100 water cooling on it,
> also planning to install Noctua NF-F12 fan to replace the corsair stock fan for the h100 radiator to reduce noise.
> But i heard that connecting the fans to the h100 water block does not control the fans speed correctly.
> Any suggestions how i can connect the fans to the motherboard and perhaps i can control it with asus suite software to control the fan speed?
> 
> Thank you very much,
> Tiyako


I have the Corsair C70 with the H100 mounted at the top. I run the two fans to a Y splitter and then run that to my NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan controller. That way I can control it and I don't need extra software/processes running in the background.

Otherwise, you can follow Angel's post above mine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> im sure he can fix them, looks like only one tracer was damaged, on the corner, and there isnt another one close to it, i would try dropping a small drop of solder to make to two ends of the tracer connect.


Agreed.


----------



## tw1st

Bah, just noticed my SLI bridge was bent pretty badly near the one of the tips. I haven't had a chance to try it yet cause I need to wait another week for my second card to arrive, hope it still works. Any experience with ASUS RMA's are they pretty good with that?


----------



## Tiyako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> I have that same setup only with a 600T case. I recommend plugging the fans into the CHA headers on the motherboard anyway and not the water block/pump. AI Suite II has Fan Xpert 2 which you can download from the ASUS Maximus V Extreme motherboard support page online. The H100 pump will have a single wire voltage readout that is will have to be plugged into the cpu_fan header so that the board will boot. That is also readable in Fan Xpert 2, but you can not change the pump speed. The only way to do that would be to undervolt it.
> Hope this helps; let me know if you have any other questions.


Thank you so much! AerieAngel for the information in detail!! i shall get it tested and hopefully it will be fine!

Thanks in advance!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I have the Corsair C70 with the H100 mounted at the top. I run the two fans to a Y splitter and then run that to my NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan controller. That way I can control it and I don't need extra software/processes running in the background.
> 
> Otherwise, you can follow Angel's post above mine.
> Agreed.


I have considered using a fan control for my case , but would rather keep it as simple as possible~








How is the C70 case? i have considered that before but no demo unit to look at near my place so i went with the budget 500r case instead.


----------



## MotherFo

[quote name="Tiyako"

Thanks in advance!








I have considered using a fan control for my case , but would rather keep it as simple as possible~








How is the C70 case? i have considered that before but no demo unit to look at near my place so i went with the budget 500r case instead.[/quote]

Part of me would argue that the fan controller is more simple than Asus's software.









I love it. I just built another for a buddy.

Lightweight, steel big mid tower. Cable management is great. It's built for 140mm/120mm fans, so no giant 200mm fans. I've made mine very quiet and very clean. The easy access side panels are great, but they are a bit of a security risk if you go to lan parties. That's like my only gripe. The handles are also sturdy so lugging it around is very simple.

Wait one more gripe. The hard drive intakes have tiny holes, so my three drives were getting quite warm. They were still within acceptable levels, but still too warm for my taste.

I highly, highly, recommend a push pull setup around the hard drive bay. So basically, a 120mm fan in the front, hard drive cage, and then a 120 slapped to the back of the cage like it comes by default. Now my hard drives are chilly


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Motherboard look WITH and without thermal armor: (please note the 4 sticks of ram DO NOT work on my motherboard, but were there just o fill gaps and make the show look pretty for noob-sus):

WITHOUT




WITH


----------



## Tiyako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> [quote name="Tiyako"
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have considered using a fan control for my case , but would rather keep it as simple as possible~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is the C70 case? i have considered that before but no demo unit to look at near my place so i went with the budget 500r case instead.


Part of me would argue that the fan controller is more simple than Asus's software.









I love it. I just built another for a buddy.

Lightweight, steel big mid tower. Cable management is great. It's built for 140mm/120mm fans, so no giant 200mm fans. I've made mine very quiet and very clean. The easy access side panels are great, but they are a bit of a security risk if you go to lan parties. That's like my only gripe. The handles are also sturdy so lugging it around is very simple.

Wait one more gripe. The hard drive intakes have tiny holes, so my three drives were getting quite warm. They were still within acceptable levels, but still too warm for my taste.

I highly, highly, recommend a push pull setup around the hard drive bay. So basically, a 120mm fan in the front, hard drive cage, and then a 120 slapped to the back of the cage like it comes by default. Now my hard drives are chilly







[/quote]

Thanks for the impression! MotherFo ~ in that case i might try out a fan controller in the future, but what might be a good recommendation? for a medium budget fan controler?

As for the push pull configuration sounds good but i think i won't have enough room in my case to do so due to the pcie cable for the video card is too close to the cage to fit another fan.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiyako*
> 
> Thanks for the impression! MotherFo ~ in that case i might try out a fan controller in the future, but what might be a good recommendation? for a medium budget fan controler?
> 
> As for the push pull configuration sounds good but i think i won't have enough room in my case to do so due to the pcie cable for the video card is too close to the cage to fit another fan.


Amazon has the NZXT Sentry Mesh for $24.99 Newegg has it for the same price I believe. It's cheap and works well. Depending on your fans, some fans may make a ticking noise if they aren't at 7v or 12v so midway on the slider bar. This is just the way the fan motors are designed. My Corsair sp120s make a slight tick, but I generally leave them on the low setting with no tick. NZXT has a few other reasonable offerings. Lamptron also makes some nice fan controllers.


----------



## tw1st

Potentially silly question here guys....

I have an CD drive hooked up to one of my SATA ports; each time I boot the machine I can hear the CD drive trying to read something that isn't there which is leading me to believe that it is actually slowing the boot time. Also that sound is annoying to hear as well.

Since I never really use the optical drive anyway (only for those one in a while needs), is there a way for me to disable my optical drive it through the BIOS somehow? I took a look around SATA config and boot which I was able to select disable for the drive but it did not seem to work.

If anything I can always just unplug, but if possible BIOS would be better.


----------



## Lolindirfab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Potentially silly question here guys....
> 
> I have an CD drive hooked up to one of my SATA ports; each time I boot the machine I can hear the CD drive trying to read something that isn't there which is leading me to believe that it is actually slowing the boot time. Also that sound is annoying to hear as well.
> 
> Since I never really use the optical drive anyway (only for those one in a while needs), is there a way for me to disable my optical drive it through the BIOS somehow? I took a look around SATA config and boot which I was able to select disable for the drive but it did not seem to work.
> 
> If anything I can always just unplug, but if possible BIOS would be better.


Mmm Boot priority maybe? Just ckeck if your HDD is the first option to boot, and NOT the cd drive.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Potentially silly question here guys....
> 
> I have an CD drive hooked up to one of my SATA ports; each time I boot the machine I can hear the CD drive trying to read something that isn't there which is leading me to believe that it is actually slowing the boot time. Also that sound is annoying to hear as well.
> 
> Since I never really use the optical drive anyway (only for those one in a while needs), is there a way for me to disable my optical drive it through the BIOS somehow? I took a look around SATA config and boot which I was able to select disable for the drive but it did not seem to work.
> 
> If anything I can always just unplug, but if possible BIOS would be better.


check your boot priorities - I had that when my CD drive was my 1st boot priority (when installing windows)

Oh and an update from me: I just re-installed windows 7 - nice and fresh.


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks.

I will be using my PC without a GPU for a week or so. What should I do in the Bios?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks.
> 
> I will be using my PC without a GPU for a week or so. What should I do in the Bios?


You'd have to switch to iGPU rather than deticated GPU so you can run off intergrated. Run HDMI cable from mobo and switch monitor display to HDMI.

Congrats on the Titan!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Well unless you touched anything in the bios, you don't have to do anything.
If you set the display to pcie then you'll have to put it to igpu or auto.
Make sure the drivers are installed on Windows and that you connect via hdmi as said by Ariz above


----------



## iMica

Been wondering if there is a way to turn off the green LED at the bottom of the board lol. Been bugging me since I have a window in my case.


----------



## RedFive

First Post and sharing with everyone my newest build and some pics of my first overclocking attempt.

Spoilered for many pics.

any feedback appreciated!

CPU i7 3770K , CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO
RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB DDR3 1600
SSD Vertex 4 512GB (thinking of getting another for RAID 0)
GPU EVGA 680 4GB (thinking of getting another for SLI







)
PSU BFG Tech EX-1200
CASE Antec 902 with all fans removed except top exhaust.
Display Dell U3011

I may add more fans as needed. I mainly removed them because of the noise. I have enough Scythe fans to use all the MB headers (3) SFF21F, (1) SFF21G, (1) Kama Flex PWM to add to the CPU. I can not get clearance for a fan on the side panel but I have one for it if I change out the CPU cooler.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






















some pics show a vertex 2 I was using waiting on my vertex 4


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> First Post and sharing with everyone my newest build and some pics of my first overclocking attempt.
> 
> Spoilered for many pics.
> 
> any feedback appreciated!
> 
> CPU i7 3770K , CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO
> RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 32GB DDR3 1600
> SSD Vertex 4 512GB (thinking of getting another for RAID 0)
> GPU EVGA 680 4GB (thinking of getting another for SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> PSU BFG Tech EX-1200
> CASE Antec 902 with all fans removed except top exhaust.
> Display Dell U3011
> 
> I may add more fans as needed. I mainly removed them because of the noise. I have enough Scythe fans to use all the MB headers (3) SFF21F, (1) SFF21G, (1) Kama Flex PWM to add to the CPU. I can not get clearance for a fan on the side panel but I have one for it if I change out the CPU cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some pics show a vertex 2 I was using waiting on my vertex 4


nice build bro!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Been wondering if there is a way to turn off the green LED at the bottom of the board lol. Been bugging me since I have a window in my case.


I remember asking this - unless you rip out the LED or switch off the PSU -> no is the short answer.
I don't know of another board where the LED stays ON after the PC has been off...


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> You'd have to switch to iGPU rather than deticated GPU so you can run off intergrated. Run HDMI cable from mobo and switch monitor display to HDMI.
> 
> Congrats on the Titan!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well unless you touched anything in the bios, you don't have to do anything.
> If you set the display to pcie then you'll have to put it to igpu or auto.
> Make sure the drivers are installed on Windows and that you connect via hdmi as said by Ariz above


Thanks guys.

It seems that though I will be sticking to my GPU right now but will probably sell it next week and will do it than.


----------



## Adasen

Hi guys. I'm looking to upgrade to this board from my Sabertooth P67. Will my ATAPI CD Rom drive work with it? I've heard a few stories of the SATA ports on the z77 not supporting ATAPI or something?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nice build bro!
> I remember asking this - unless you rip out the LED or switch off the PSU -> no is the short answer.
> I don't know of another board where the LED stays ON after the PC has been off...


AsRock boards are the only motherboards that I know of that have the "Good night LED" feature.

"Good Night LED

Are you eager to enjoy an absolutely better stand-by environment than ever before? ASRock Good Night LED technology can offer you a better environment by extinguishing the unessential LED. By enabling Good Night LED in BIOS, the Power / HDD / LAN LED will be switched off when system is on. Not only this, Good night LED will automatically switch off Power and Keyboard LED when the system enters into Standby / Hibernation mode as well."

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adasen*
> 
> Hi guys. I'm looking to upgrade to this board from my Sabertooth P67. Will my ATAPI CD Rom drive work with it? I've heard a few stories of the SATA ports on the z77 not supporting ATAPI or something?


As long as it's a SATA drive, it should work fine.


----------



## CODELESS

Totally Dubbed

dude, give my suggestion a try,
get some fine sand paper, like a 1000grid or something, and sand that tracer where you damaged it so that you expose the two ends of the tracer.
then wipe it down with some alcohol to remove any grease, get a nice small solder iron, and drop some solder on it. the board is already ****ed so you might as well give it a try.

you will be a legend if it works ! and so will i for suggesting it


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Totally Dubbed
> 
> dude, give my suggestion a try,
> get some fine sand paper, like a 1000grid or something, and sand that tracer where you damaged it so that you expose the two ends of the tracer.
> then wipe it down with some alcohol to remove any grease, get a nice small solder iron, and drop some solder on it. the board is already ****ed so you might as well give it a try.
> 
> you will be a legend if it works ! and so will i for suggesting it


Or find two terminals along the trace and solder a point to point wire. It's how I have fixed 3 xbox 360s.


----------



## tw1st

Anyone else here have a problem with the multiplier + other settings in the BIOS getting stuck?

For example I'll try and change the multiplier to 45 and when I boot it still says 43, same goes for certain other options like boot options....

I can get it to work by resetting the CMOS, just a pain in the ass to have to keep doing that :/


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Anyone else here have a problem with the multiplier + other settings in the BIOS getting stuck?
> 
> For example I'll try and change the multiplier to 45 and when I boot it still says 43, same goes for certain other options like boot options....
> 
> I can get it to work by resetting the CMOS, just a pain in the ass to have to keep doing that :/


many people do yes - you ought to reflash the bios.


----------



## tw1st

Hmm, I might be inclined to try that then. Since I'm already on the latest BIOS (1805), would it just be a matter of putting the BIOS file on a USB and flashing through UEFI flash utility again? I wouldn't think it would let me do that since I'm not technically upgrading the BIOS to a newer version.

This would wipe all of my settings/profiles as well?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Hmm, I might be inclined to try that then. Since I'm already on the latest BIOS (1805), would it just be a matter of putting the BIOS file on a USB and flashing through UEFI flash utility again? I wouldn't think it would let me do that since I'm not technically upgrading the BIOS to a newer version.
> 
> This would wipe all of my settings/profiles as well?


It will wipe everything - and that's the only solution -> flashing the bios again (doesn't matter which version)
And yeah USB should work


----------



## tw1st

Thank you for your help, much appreciated. Ill give this a try after I get out of work, thank you again!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Let me know how it goes, and don't forget to hit that button if I did help


----------



## MKHunt

If you want to save your profiles, just throw them on the USB via the BIOS and load them once its done reflashing. Works like a charm.


----------



## tw1st

oo good idea! rep for you both


----------



## Tempest2000

Been considering this mobo for a little while now and noticed that's it's been out for quite a while. My question is, how long do you expect this board to remain relevant? Is it due for a replacement / upgrade any time soon? Still worth the price tag?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tempest2000*
> 
> Been considering this mobo for a little while now and noticed that's it's been out for quite a while. My question is, how long do you expect this board to remain relevant? Is it due for a replacement / upgrade any time soon? Still worth the price tag?


I would pay elsewhere for better customer service


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would pay elsewhere for better customer service


You have clearly not worked with Gigabyte CS regarding motherboards.

Also, stop with the bashing man. I get it. Your cooler messed up your board and they refused it for customer induced damage. That's 100% standard procedure. Bashing ASUS for following protocol does not make you look good and it earns ZERO pity. Stuff happens. I had a pump failure that killed a 2600k. Once I had replaced my 2600k, my GTX 590 shorted. Do I go around bashing Nvidia and Intel? Absolutely not. You're coming across as self-righteous and entitled and it's not doing this club any favors.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> You have clearly not worked with Gigabyte CS regarding motherboards.
> 
> Also, stop with the bashing man. I get it. Your cooler messed up your board and they refused it for customer induced damage. That's 100% standard procedure. Bashing ASUS for following protocol does not make you look good and it earns ZERO pity. Stuff happens. I had a pump failure that killed a 2600k. Once I had replaced my 2600k, my GTX 590 shorted. Do I go around bashing Nvidia and Intel? Absolutely not. You're coming across as self-righteous and entitled and it's not doing this club any favors.


I never asked for pity did I?
I own this board, and dislike it - stop defending them like a fanboy.

I hate people that personally attack me









Oh and for the record I can't comment on Gigabyte's warranty service.
Can you comment on Asus' one out of interest


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I never asked for pity did I?
> I own this board, and dislike it - stop defending them like a fanboy.
> 
> I hate people that personally attack me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and for the record I can't comment on Gigabyte's warranty service.
> Can you comment on Asus' one out of interest


Yes I can. I had an Asus VivoTabRT that had some nasty backlight bleed. ASUS sent me a new one, no problem. My friend Jacek bought an Asus refurbished i7 laptop w/ 660m. The 660m was artifacting. ASUS replaced it in a timely manner. I'm not attacking you, I'm attacking your attitude. I have no interest in favoring brands . I bought this board because it was an open box factory refurb on Newegg for $150 and my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 crapped out on me in addition to having some of the worst BIOS I've ever used. Compared to my experiences with GB, Asus has been a breeze to deal with. You just keep misrepresenting things though.

You say: "TUF my foot! This mobo is trash!"
Pictures and others have shown: Your improper Khuler 920 mount or faulty Khuler 920 mount hardware exerted some serious force on the mobo and damaged traces. (FWIW, my Z68XP-UD4 has traces right next to the holes too. You would have had the same experience there.)
You say: "ASUS Customer Service is horrible because they made a bad product and then refused my warranty for scratches."
What happened: The RMA department followed the same protocol of every RMA department to ever exist. They saw a board sent in with broken traces and tagged it as customer damage. Boards with broken traces don't leave the factory.

I just don't get how you can trash on a company for doing exactly what they say they will do in all their warranty terms. Does a company have to suddenly give extra-special treatment and take losses due to other peoples negligence to be considered a decent company by you?

This board is not perfect, this board has its quirks and some problems. Asus QC is not the most stellar in the industry either. However, the components on the board are good, the construction and memory implementation yield excellent performance, and the featureset is pretty robust for not having a PCIe switching chip. This board actually ran my 2600k at a lower voltage 100% stably more than my GB mobo ever did, and GB's claim to fame with my mobo was that it had a 16+2 phase VRM scheme. Again, it is not perfect by any means. But when you mess up, you need to take responsibility for it. I'm surprised at the lack of effort you've put into getting this fixed. At the very least, hit up Antec with the results from ASUS and try to get them to cover replacing the board. If their mounting system was faulty and killed the board, they should own up to that. If that fails, try fixing the traces. Sitting on your hands and complaining does no good for anybody.

Anyway, I'm off to de-lid my 3770k and switch my top mount RS240 for an EX360. I feel bad that this happened to you, I really do. These things really blow, and it's really really hard to not be bitter about it. Nobody wants a dead mobo and a bad experience. It's just bad ju-ju all around.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Yes I can. I had an Asus VivoTabRT that had some nasty backlight bleed. ASUS sent me a new one, no problem. My friend Jacek bought an Asus refurbished i7 laptop w/ 660m. The 660m was artifacting. ASUS replaced it in a timely manner. I'm not attacking you, I'm attacking your attitude. I have no interest in favoring brands . I bought this board because it was an open box factory refurb on Newegg for $150 and my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 crapped out on me in addition to having some of the worst BIOS I've ever used. Compared to my experiences with GB, Asus has been a breeze to deal with. You just keep misrepresenting things though.
> 
> You say: "TUF my foot! This mobo is trash!"
> Pictures and others have shown: Your improper Khuler 920 mount or faulty Khuler 920 mount hardware exerted some serious force on the mobo and damaged traces. (FWIW, my Z68XP-UD4 has traces right next to the holes too. You would have had the same experience there.)
> You say: "ASUS Customer Service is horrible because they made a bad product and then refused my warranty for scratches."
> What happened: The RMA department followed the same protocol of every RMA department to ever exist. They saw a board sent in with broken traces and tagged it as customer damage. Boards with broken traces don't leave the factory.
> 
> I just don't get how you can trash on a company for doing exactly what they say they will do in all their warranty terms. Does a company have to suddenly give extra-special treatment and take losses due to other peoples negligence to be considered a decent company by you?
> 
> This board is not perfect, this board has its quirks and some problems. Asus QC is not the most stellar in the industry either. However, the components on the board are good, the construction and memory implementation yield excellent performance, and the featureset is pretty robust for not having a PCIe switching chip. This board actually ran my 2600k at a lower voltage 100% stably more than my GB mobo ever did, and GB's claim to fame with my mobo was that it had a 16+2 phase VRM scheme. Again, it is not perfect by any means. But when you mess up, you need to take responsibility for it. I'm surprised at the lack of effort you've put into getting this fixed. At the very least, hit up Antec with the results from ASUS and try to get them to cover replacing the board. If their mounting system was faulty and killed the board, they should own up to that. If that fails, try fixing the traces. Sitting on your hands and complaining does no good for anybody.
> 
> Anyway, I'm off to de-lid my 3770k and switch my top mount RS240 for an EX360. I feel bad that this happened to you, I really do. These things really blow, and it's really really hard to not be bitter about it. Nobody wants a dead mobo and a bad experience. It's just bad ju-ju all around.


I second everything he said, except im not de-lidding my cpu right now lol.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Yes I can. I had an Asus VivoTabRT that had some nasty backlight bleed. ASUS sent me a new one, no problem. My friend Jacek bought an Asus refurbished i7 laptop w/ 660m. The 660m was artifacting. ASUS replaced it in a timely manner. I'm not attacking you, I'm attacking your attitude. I have no interest in favoring brands . I bought this board because it was an open box factory refurb on Newegg for $150 and my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD4 crapped out on me in addition to having some of the worst BIOS I've ever used. Compared to my experiences with GB, Asus has been a breeze to deal with. You just keep misrepresenting things though.
> Anyway, I'm off to de-lid my 3770k and switch my top mount RS240 for an EX360. I feel bad that this happened to you, I really do. These things really blow, and it's really really hard to not be bitter about it. Nobody wants a dead mobo and a bad experience. It's just bad ju-ju all around.


To think I haven't put effort in makes me laugh.
1. Asus RMA department for COMPONENTS and LAPTOPS is completely a different thing. Try calling asus right now for motherboard support - see what the automated phone service will say (they hang up the phone and ask you to contact the reseller)
Then try and call up for laptop service and suddely you'll get someone ready to hear your complaints let alone your problems.
2. I've again had a previous experience with ASUS, and it was to the point that a "specialist" didn't know what RAM was - furthermore ended his email communications with me with: "I will not be responding to any more of your emails, the rest of them will be going into the SPAM folder" - I can get the emails if you so wish to prove that
3. TUF stands for what? Exactly - durability, reliability etc etc - yet it was less than durable in my opinion - even Asus never responded to my query about what TUF stood for and what the name of this sabertooth stood for








4. Finally, just to put this to bed -> if people like myself never complain, post, make it an issue, no one will ever realise the true "face" of what's happened. People can happily go to my videos, forum posts and threads in order to see what's happened - and they can be the judge of who the person at fault is. However when someone asks: "Would you recommend this board" my answer is no, spend your money elsewhere, as Asus customer service is terrible. I'm I at fault for saying such a thing? No. Are you asking me to recommend this product even though I hate it? Yes.

Long story short: You want to protect your purchase --edited-- which is totally understandable in given circumstances (seen it A LOT in the audio world) - however one thing I will never "back down" is when people, like yourself tell me or anyone else to stop "bashing" (I use that term very loosely as that's not what I feel I'm doing) a company and/or product for their personal experiences of it.

Just before you think: Then what are you doing in this owners club?
Well the answer lies in the title.
I'm an OWNER but a very unsatisfied OWNER of this board. More so, I've been helping quite a few people in here, and sometimes re-directing them to the OC IB thread - so I think I stand my ground in that respect too


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tempest2000*
> 
> Been considering this mobo for a little while now and noticed that's it's been out for quite a while. My question is, how long do you expect this board to remain relevant? Is it due for a replacement / upgrade any time soon? Still worth the price tag?


The short answer is "we don't know."
Having said that, there is no reason that an Ivy Bridge built system today wouldn't remain relevant.
On the other side of things and if you want to remain on the bleeding edge for as long as possible I would wait for Haswell.
There won't be any upgrade path for a Z77 board and a i5-3770K cpu except perhaps an extreme edition cpu released maybe somewhere down the road. Haswell (Ivy Bridge's successor) will be a Z87 express chipset and a socket 1150 so that pretty much puts a wall up for any system built today.
Hope this helps and let us know if you have any more questions!


----------



## kRze.baLLiN!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tempest2000*
> 
> Been considering this mobo for a little while now and noticed that's it's been out for quite a while. My question is, how long do you expect this board to remain relevant? Is it due for a replacement / upgrade any time soon? Still worth the price tag?


How long will any piece of technology still be "relevant'? Everything gets outdated very soon in terms of technology. The thing you have to ask yourself is what are your needs and how you can future proof your money a bit? What I look at in a motherboard is: manufacturer, inputs, expansions, and socket. Now I just bought the Sabertooth Z77 about 2 weeks ago for my new build and how I based my decision was by this:

ASUS - I have always used their boards and never had one fail on me.*knock on wood* (I've been building PCs for over a decade)
1155 socket / Z77 - Needed a 1155 IB board with the latest chipset for my 3770K after I settled with going IB and not waiting for Haswell.
PCIe 3.0/ USB 3.0 / SATA3 - Small amount of future proofing here with latest in technology in all fronts. Small like things too like the amount of USB3 and SATA3 inputs. And number of PCIe 3.0 slots for SLI in future.
Looks (guess this is more personal) - It looks great. I have always got ugly boards with funky colors. I am finally happy about my motherboard design. (+1 for me)
I think you just need to ask yourself what you are looking for and you will answer how long this motherboard will be relevant to you. To me it will be relevant for a very long time, I won't need to upgrade anytime soon.


----------



## ravenomega

Anyone know if the small 40mm fans on the motherboard will cause dust build up underneath the thermal armor?


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ravenomega*
> 
> Anyone know if the small 40mm fans on the motherboard will cause dust build up underneath the thermal armor?


why should it? what do you mean?!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ravenomega*
> 
> Anyone know if the small 40mm fans on the motherboard will cause dust build up underneath the thermal armor?


like any fans in a pc case it will attract dust etc ,so i would say yes it would , but any compressed-gas duster or mini vac will do the job or you could remove the thermal cover:thumb:


----------



## iMica

Going to add another 7970 in a week or so. Was looking at the mobo and was wondering if this is the right size water bridge.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35548

It loooooks right but im not 100%


----------



## Chillie

Simple question easy answer...i just can recall how to fix this. So i had to reinstall windows 7. I overclocked my cpu but for the life of me i cant remember how to make the overclock only boost to the set overclock when under load. Right now my overclock is constantly running at max clocks.....what is the setting i need to change? for the life of i cant remember i know the answer is starring at me in the face on the bios screen.


----------



## MKHunt

Enable turbo boost, enable C1E and make sure intel speedstep is enabled.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Enable turbo boost, enable C1E and make sure intel speedstep is enabled.


Thanks man I knew it was super simple idk why I felt so defeated to post this question....


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Enable turbo boost, enable C1E and make sure intel speedstep is enabled.


Ok everything is enabled but cpuz is reading that the cpu is still running at the set overclock constantly.....any ideas?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> Ok everything is enabled but cpuz is reading that the cpu is still running at the set overclock constantly.....any ideas?


Windows power options - set them to balanced and not performance.


----------



## Chillie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Windows power options - set them to balanced and not performance.


that did it I just changed the cpu limit in power settings > advanced settings. Thanks man







+rep


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chillie*
> 
> that did it I just changed the cpu limit in power settings > advanced settings. Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


pleasure dude


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ravenomega*
> 
> Anyone know if the small 40mm fans on the motherboard will cause dust build up underneath the thermal armor?


If you have positive pressure inside your case and dust filters on intakes you should be just fine. There shouldn't be dust inside your case for the assist fans to blow under the thermal armor.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ravenomega*
> 
> Anyone know if the small 40mm fans on the motherboard will cause dust build up underneath the thermal armor?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have positive pressure inside your case and dust filters on intakes you should be just fine. There shouldn't be dust inside your case for the assist fans to blow under the thermal armor.
Click to expand...

not so sure on this. the 40 mm fan nearest to the i/o sheild blows air in from the back of pc case and i have never seen a dust filter thats fits on,in front or rear of the i/o . so when the fan is blowing in to cool the thermal its going to blow dust in
at some time i seen and had that problem on previous asus motherboards:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Dust wise with the 35's you should be OK - nothing to worry about.
Without the fans as well, nothing to worry about.
I wouldn't really worry about dust, at least not in the next 1-2years of using the board (provided you clean your PC at some regular intervals)


----------



## jktmas

wait wait wait...
What exactly does intel speed step do? I have always turned it off, is this what i should be doing?


----------



## MKHunt

SpeedStep drops you down to 1.6ghz at low load/idle and ramps you up to your max OC at full load.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

As hunt said. Imagine it as a bios way of Windows power options. Without speedstep in the bios you'll never be ramping up or down


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iMica*
> 
> Going to add another 7970 in a week or so. Was looking at the mobo and was wondering if this is the right size water bridge.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35548
> 
> It loooooks right but im not 100%


Yes that is exactly the right one


----------



## jktmas

Does anyone else have high USB 3.0 temps? I dont have any usb 3.0 pluged in and my usb 3.0 temp is the highest of all?


----------



## MKHunt

My USB 3.0 sits at like 47C. I don't worry about it.

Here's some thermal armor cosmetic love.


----------



## ravenomega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> not so sure on this. the 40 mm fan nearest to the i/o sheild blows air in from the back of pc case and i have never seen a dust filter thats fits on,in front or rear of the i/o . so when the fan is blowing in to cool the thermal its going to blow dust in
> at some time i seen and had that problem on previous asus motherboards:thumb:


So I'm guessing I would have to use compressed air on the inside fan and hope the dust goes out the back ? lol It's a far stretch and that's why I am worried. Although I clean my pc a lot because I hate it being dusty, that is one of that hardest things to take care of.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My USB 3.0 sits at like 47C. I don't worry about it.
> 
> Here's some thermal armor cosmetic love.


beautiful, absolutely beautiful bro!
Is that 2x4 GB RAM?


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*


Can i borrow your computer for umn..... ooh 5 years? lol


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> beautiful, absolutely beautiful bro!
> Is that 2x4 GB RAM?


Yussir. Oc'ed to 2200MHz 9-11-10-27 1T at 1.505V.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Can i borrow your computer for umn..... ooh 5 years? lol


lul, but _I_ need it for playing games and CAD and driving my beautiful screens


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As hunt said. Imagine it as a bios way of Windows power options. Without speedstep in the bios you'll never be ramping up or down


TD did flashing the bios ever work?


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> lul, but _I_ need it for playing games and CAD and driving my beautiful screens


Yay a fellow autodesk user







!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Yussir. Oc'ed to 2200MHz 9-11-10-27 1T at 1.505V.
> lul, but _I_ need it for playing games and CAD and driving my beautiful screens


NOICE
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> TD did flashing the bios ever work?


it worked but didn't help bro.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taafe*
> 
> Has anybody update there bios? If so did you notice any improvements? I've not heard anything good about updating but surely asus can't mess that up?


You don't need to update BIOS unless YOU are overclocking extreme. Those updates are intended for overclockers but i could be wrong. Bios updates are really needed IF you have a system problem.


----------



## Xavin83

Is it possible to get the assist fans to run at a fixed rpm? I might just suck but i can't for my life get them to work as i want them.


----------



## 10pmstalker

I'm getting a red light behind my video card and unable to see anything on monitor when hdmi is hooked up directly to motherboard. Is it dead?


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xavin83*
> 
> Is it possible to get the assist fans to run at a fixed rpm? I might just suck but i can't for my life get them to work as i want them.


same problem here plus they are too loud. i just replaced them with more quiet ones. they run 100% and are not hearable.
happy end.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> I'm getting a red light behind my video card and unable to see anything on monitor when hdmi is hooked up directly to motherboard. Is it dead?


tried another card? or boot over igpu to see if the rest of the system runs well? all power cables connected to the card?! fan running?


----------



## Xavin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> same problem here plus they are too loud. i just replaced them with more quiet ones. they run 100% and are not hearable.
> happy end.


I never would have thought of that, thank you








What fans did you replace them with?


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xavin83*
> 
> I never would have thought of that, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fans did you replace them with?


i have theese
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p6351_Noiseblocker-NB-BlacksilentFan-XM1---40x40x10mm--.html
sry its on german, but now you have the model and can search it.

not hearable - but - there may be better ones that are barely hearable too. you gotta browse the web about that one.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My USB 3.0 sits at like 47C. I don't worry about it.
> 
> Here's some thermal armor cosmetic love.


I like it a lot Just pulled my RX360 and purchased a Corsair H60 was sick of mainlining it. Looking at this I regret it already


----------



## Z Overlord

hi I'd appreciate if any of you would take a look at my strange issue over here, it's using this motherboard but I think it's best to respond there instead of here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1369792/so-whenever-i-turn-on-my-pc-windows-creates-a-critical-error-entry-in-event-viewer-saying-my-pc-did-not-shut-down-properly-i-think-my-pc-does-not-shut-off-100-on-shut-down


----------



## 10pmstalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> same problem here plus they are too loud. i just replaced them with more quiet ones. they run 100% and are not hearable.
> happy end.
> tried another card? or boot over igpu to see if the rest of the system runs well? all power cables connected to the card?! fan running?


Yeah all fans are running. All cables are connected to the card. igpu won't post either.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10pmstalker*
> 
> I'm getting a red light behind my video card and unable to see anything on monitor when hdmi is hooked up directly to motherboard. Is it dead?


HDMI won't work if your GPU is plugged in.
Get the GPU out then test HDMI

Red light near the GPU would suggest something is wrong with the GPU - you installed it properly (put the latch back on?)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xavin83*
> 
> I never would have thought of that, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fans did you replace them with?


I did tests - and fans only made a 5c difference - I have NO FANS. They're pointless unless you go to crazy heat, have no air flow in your case etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> i have theese
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p6351_Noiseblocker-NB-BlacksilentFan-XM1---40x40x10mm--.html
> sry its on german, but now you have the model and can search it.
> 
> not hearable - but - there may be better ones that are barely hearable too. you gotta browse the web about that one.


Remember 40mm is for only 1 of the 2 fans - the other HAS to be 35mm
Noctua 40mm is another option.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> not so sure on this. the 40 mm fan nearest to the i/o sheild blows air in from the back of pc case and i have never seen a dust filter thats fits on,in front or rear of the i/o . so when the fan is blowing in to cool the thermal its going to blow dust in
> at some time i seen and had that problem on previous asus motherboards:thumb:


If it a huge concern then wrapping the fans with panty hose would work fantastically.


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I did tests - and fans only made a 5c difference - I have NO FANS. They're pointless unless you go to crazy heat, have no air flow in your case etc..


my ai suite cried my pcie-x1 was getting over 60°C.. now it stays around 55°C., i had the fans shut of due loudness..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> my ai suite cried my pcie-x1 was getting over 60°C.. now it stays around 55°C., i had the fans shut of due loudness..


Oh yeah my AI suite 2 also said my CPU socket was at 127c....


----------



## ad556

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> I like it a lot Just pulled my RX360 and purchased a Corsair H60 was sick of mainlining it. Looking at this I regret it already


What are the red fans used and what's the case GPU and CPU
And what OC is it at and idle temps


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Those are the corsair af120/140 or the sp120s


----------



## Xavin83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My USB 3.0 sits at like 47C. I don't worry about it.
> 
> Here's some thermal armor cosmetic love.


Would that be the pch temperature?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I did tests - and fans only made a 5c difference - I have NO FANS. They're pointless unless you go to crazy heat, have no air flow in your case etc.
> Remember 40mm is for only 1 of the 2 fans - the other HAS to be 35mm
> Noctua 40mm is another option.


Thank you for the heads up.
Also i think my motherboard sensor is busted, i have never seen it go past 30c and thats without the assist fans.
But the airflow is good in the case so i guess i can just forget about that sensor.


----------



## Tyriama

Greetings you tech-savy maniacs.

I have a problem, and I was hoping you guys would be able to help.
I have recently (last 1.5 months) upgraded my PC from a 2007 build that was starting to suffer the gods of use. Thus, I went for a motherboard, CPU and RAM combo that was supposed to be "ideal", namely the sabertooth, i5 3570k and Corsair Vengeance 4x4gb ram. This has been working fine, and I've put the BIOS into the "perfomance" setting to get some extra juice out of the system.

However, today, when I went to turn on my PC, it just came up with no boot at all, and MemOK! Was lighting constantly. After testing it with the button, testing different positions, I can only get it to boot with two memsticks in A2-B2, and no performance setting.

My question is twofold: Is my no OC problems linked to the use of only two ram sticks? And what can I do to figure out what is wrong?

Full specs:
Z77 Sabertooth.
i5 3570k @ 3.40GHz
Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 16GB (4x4GB)
Chieftec 750W PSU
Nvidia GeForce GTX 670, stock.

Hope you may assist me, I've had too much problems with this rig already (one faulty mobo, one faulty CPU...)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Tyriama:
It would seem your motherboard is busted. That's the same problem I had, but it seemed apparently to be trace related near the cpu holes. I personally think it was due to the noobtooth shorting out two of my ram slots.
It can do with oc, but if you hold that memok button it defaults it to what the motherboard can handle and a safe speed. So if that didn't work...time to send that board back.
Quite a few people have reported this board as mysteriously stopping to work in a2 and b2. And I'm just another one to add to the list. TUF, for what? Ultimate unreliability maybe?


----------



## Tyriama

That really sucks. I was enjoying this mobo a lot.

I have another mobo somewhere with the same socket, but it would take me a day of work to get the socket fixed (got denied RMA as they claimed it was "poor insertion of the CPU." I've barely taken it out of the box <.< Two pins are bent out of place.

Hopefully this will work, or I'm stuck without a PC for over two weeks xD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ram isn't at fault here is it? You tried different ram? And does it work in slots a1 and b1?


----------



## MKHunt

Tip from experience. If a1 and b1 work, they provide better performance than a2 and b2.

a1 and b1 is blue, a2 and b2 is red.










Current bandwidth in A1 and B1

http://www.sisoftware.eu/rank2011d/show_run.php?q=c2ffcdffd9b8d9e4d0e4dde8dbe9cfbd80b096f396ab9bbdcef3c3

Current latency for A1 and B1

http://www.sisoftware.eu/rank2011d/show_run.php?q=c2ffcefddbbadbe6deecddeedff98bb686a0c5a09dad8bf8c5f5\

Ignore the manual, A2 and B2 are the less optimal slots.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Oh really? Daym cheers for the tip bro. I'll make that change to my system now. I had them as the manual suggested. Is there any reasoning for it?


----------



## Tyriama

Will do the tests later on with different slots with the two ram kits I have in now, then do the tedious process of testing everything against eachother.

I can't test 4x of a different ram kit, as I only have a 3x2GB kit laying around. If I can't isolate the fault with my current sticks, I'll use those to doublecheck.

Had to modify the case of one of the RAM kits to make it fit underneath the CPU fan, but that shouldn't be the culprit, as I only removed metal that was "excess". (It was there for cooling, but it's placed right under a 15CM fan blowing straight onto it.) so can't RMA those. Atleast they aren't expensive anymore for a 12gb+


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh really? Daym cheers for the tip bro. I'll make that change to my system now. I had them as the manual suggested. Is there any reasoning for it?


The reasoning for a1 and b1 being better is their physically shorter trace length. Even though the difference in resistance is probably thousandths of an ohm, it's still less electrical load on the memory controller.

As for why ASUS recommends a2 and b2 is beyond me.


----------



## Tiyako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My USB 3.0 sits at like 47C. I don't worry about it.
> 
> Here's some thermal armor cosmetic love.


Your setup is just.....Mint!







Gorgeous!

Anychance you can point me in the right direction to learn about how to put together my own water cooling? because i've only used closed water loop and never built my own.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiyako*
> 
> Your setup is just.....Mint!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gorgeous!
> 
> Anychance you can point me in the right direction to learn about how to put together my own water cooling? because i've only used closed water loop and never built my own.


It's pretty simple. There are boku guides for it too. Basically you start by deciding what you want to cool which determines how much rad you need. Your block count and number of rads will determine which pump you need, and from there on, fans and whatnot are all your choice.


----------



## Tyriama

Riiight.

I've just tested all the slots. With all the different RAM sticks. (Removed my CPU fan for the short period I was testing.) and lo and behold, they all work again. Even the mangled little outcast right under the cooler.

I also tested with the older corsair XMS3 2gb sticks in all slots, and they worked perfectly. I think these snap-locks just couldn't hold it in place when I recently moved it. (Noticed A1 was fairly loose). I fixed it for now with a little extra tender pressure when putting it in, and then holding it in place with a short length of electrical tape from the edge of the thermal armor to the tip of the ram. (If you get my point xD)

Will postpone my RMA for now, I got 3 years of warranty on this ****, and I plan to use it to the full extent of that warranty


----------



## Solonowarion

Ok I think this is my motherboard. When I power on, it turns on then just before the windows screen the whole pc shuts off. Then boots up right at the wondows log in.

Any ideas?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

5 years actually! Although be warned as to what they cover...


----------



## iARDAs

Again my OC got stuck at 44 this time.

No matter how I did it or even if I restored default settings the OC got stuck.

I had to do a bios update to fix it.

Weird issue.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Does anyone else have high USB 3.0 temps? I dont have any usb 3.0 pluged in and my usb 3.0 temp is the highest of all?


Yep, my usb 3 runs warm regardless. I wouldn't worry about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyriama*
> 
> Riiight.
> 
> I've just tested all the slots. With all the different RAM sticks. (Removed my CPU fan for the short period I was testing.) and lo and behold, they all work again. Even the mangled little outcast right under the cooler.
> 
> I also tested with the older corsair XMS3 2gb sticks in all slots, and they worked perfectly. I think these snap-locks just couldn't hold it in place when I recently moved it. (Noticed A1 was fairly loose). I fixed it for now with a little extra tender pressure when putting it in, and then holding it in place with a short length of electrical tape from the edge of the thermal armor to the tip of the ram. (If you get my point xD)
> 
> Will postpone my RMA for now, I got 3 years of warranty on this ****, and I plan to use it to the full extent of that warranty


Yeah, it sounded like bad ram. Just test a working stick in each slot with Memtest86+ Perhaps one of your sticks is going bad.

Also, I wouldn't use the Bios automated overclocking in the bios by selecting Performance. I would read Dubbed's guide about overclocking.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Ok I think this is my motherboard. When I power on, it turns on then just before the windows screen the whole pc shuts off. Then boots up right at the wondows log in.
> 
> I'm confused. SO the PC switches on but switches off before opening?
> You sure you shutting the PC off and not hibernating it etc?
> 
> Any ideas?


Check windows power options, regarding HDD sleep time etc
To me that would sound like a few things:
-Motherboard (try reflashing the bios)
-PSU dying / not enough power -> but then if you can run windows...I have no idea
-OC being too high? (motherboard related?)
-Power connections to the motherboard?
-SSD -> IDE is not selected hopefully
-Monitor -> DVI cable
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Again my OC got stuck at 44 this time.
> 
> No matter how I did it or even if I restored default settings the OC got stuck.
> 
> I had to do a bios update to fix it.
> 
> Weird issue.


yeah man known issue - reflash bios and you;re done.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> The reasoning for a1 and b1 being better is their physically shorter trace length. Even though the difference in resistance is probably thousandths of an ohm, it's still less electrical load on the memory controller.
> 
> As for why ASUS recommends a2 and b2 is beyond me.


Out of interest - from the pic you showed, the speeds seem the same? I'm I missing something?


----------



## Tyriama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Yep, my usb 3 runs warm regardless. I wouldn't worry about it.
> Yeah, it sounded like bad ram. Just test a working stick in each slot with Memtest86+ Perhaps one of your sticks is going bad.
> 
> Also, I wouldn't use the Bios automated overclocking in the bios by selecting Performance. I would read Dubbed's guide about overclocking.


it was a bad connection for the ram sticks that caused the issues. Have fixed it now, atleast momentarily. Will monitor it after moving and such to make sure it is staying connected.

Regarding the performance plan on the mobo: They won't cover it on the warranty if you use your own OC. However, they provide that OC for you, and therefore (considering they do not warn you against it) will cover any faults that occur due to that OC.
It's the easy way out


----------



## MKHunt

Look again. The a1 and b1 slots are ~160MB/s faster and each has ~1ns lower latency. Granted, at 27-29GB/s 160MB/s is not a lot, but 1ns of latency is surprisingly big (considering the highest latency I got from my RAM was 18.5ns, 1ns is a substantial chunk).


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyriama*
> 
> it was a bad connection for the ram sticks that caused the issues. Have fixed it now, atleast momentarily. Will monitor it after moving and such to make sure it is staying connected.
> 
> Regarding the performance plan on the mobo: They won't cover it on the warranty if you use your own OC. However, they provide that OC for you, and therefore (considering they do not warn you against it) will cover any faults that occur due to that OC.
> It's the easy way out


Understood, but at the sametime, I've seen those Asus overclocks do some strange wacky overclock settings. Overvolt, strange ram timings, kill ram prematurely, etc. If it does kill your ram, I highly doubt they would reimburse you the shipping costs.

I would almost argue that it would be safer for you to do it on your especially with so many resources available on this forum. Ivy and Z77 oc very easily.

No worries though.


----------



## clayer

hi i need help with a bsod error only happens about once a week.

any help would be appreciated.
i have run a diagnostic check on my hard drives no errors
and ran memtest for 2 hours no errors.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi i need help with a bsod error only happens about once a week.
> 
> any help would be appreciated.
> i have run a diagnostic check on my hard drives no errors
> and ran memtest for 2 hours no errors.


Download whocrashed and run analyze and scroll down and copy paste the info please.

Also, if you knew what the BSOD error was, that would help too.

Are you overclocking?


----------



## clayer

hi thanks ill do that and post results and yes 4.7 oc and stable except for the error above.


----------



## clayer

hi here is results.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi here is results.


http://www.overclock.net/a/common-bsod-error-code-list-for-overclocking and looking at your error shows me "0x3B = add more vcore"

My guess is you aren't stable. I know that's what you don't want to hear, but that's all I can gather from that generic blue screen. It's not pointing at anything in particular.

My suggestion, which you can take or leave, would be to either put everything back to stock for a week and see if you still get the BSOD. Write down all your settings beforehand though.

Also, you said you memtested for only 2 hours. 16gb of ram generally takes longer than 2 hours. Go for at least 2 passes/overnight.

I would also say run your command prompt as admin start | run | cmd and run sfc /scannow and perhaps a chkdsk /r and see what results you get with those.

Are you getting any Whea errors in the event viewer?

Any other errors that happen around the time of blue screen in the event viewer?

Also, is a this a clean windows install or one that you've cloned?

Are there any firmware updates for your SSD?

Perhaps MK or Dubbed will have some other ideas, but I think you should start there.


----------



## kizwan

Where did you see 0x3B? Bugcheck code is 0xF4.


----------



## clayer

hi this is clean windows install genuine windows 7 ultimate
my ssd is running up to date no errors
i will run a memory test overnight it says on memtest i can only run it at 2047mb and can run 2 at the same time shall i run 4 to test all ram modules.

thanks.


----------



## Chrivesko

Hi guys, decided to create a new account for any help that you guys can provide me.

Planning to build my own rig though. Currently planning components are:

-Asus Sabertooth Z77
-MSI GTX 660 Twin Frozr
-Corsair Vengeance
-Corsair Force 3 SSD
-1TB Seagate 7200rpm HDD
-Corsair GS800 Power Supply

Well these are currently my plan. Is this setup ok or are there things that i may need to consider?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Where did you see 0x3B? Bugcheck code is 0xF4.


There's a 0x3 afterwards, so I inferred a little bit.







4.7 is pretty high and the short memtest scared me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi this is clean windows install genuine windows 7 ultimate
> my ssd is running up to date no errors
> i will run a memory test overnight it says on memtest i can only run it at 2047mb and can run 2 at the same time shall i run 4 to test all ram modules.
> 
> thanks.


Are you using version 4.20? I've never heard of an error like that. You should definitely test them all at their settings you'd be running the rig at. If you have 4 dimms, have all 4 in. Also, have you ran prime95 for 12 hours too? I only see IBT.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrivesko*
> 
> Hi guys, decided to create a new account for any help that you guys can provide me.
> 
> Planning to build my own rig though. Currently planning components are:
> 
> -Asus Sabertooth Z77
> -MSI GTX 660 Twin Frozr
> -Corsair Vengeance
> -Corsair Force 3 SSD
> -1TB Seagate 7200rpm HDD
> -Corsair GS800 Power Supply
> 
> Well these are currently my plan. Is this setup ok or are there things that i may need to consider?


Sounds good to me. I don't think the GS800 is modular, so you might want to consider a modular power supply if you are going to do the C70 case. What heatsink/water cooler are you going to use? Good luck with your build.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi this is clean windows install genuine windows 7 ultimate
> my ssd is running up to date no errors
> i will run a memory test overnight it says on memtest i can only run it at 2047mb and can run 2 at the same time shall i run 4 to test all ram modules.
> 
> thanks.


1st of all use prime 95,real temp,cpuz all together and stress test min 6-8 hrs, some time intel burn don't all ways pick up a unstable oc.your overclock at 4.7 with vcore at 1.36v just might not be enough try 1.38v and then prime95 for a few hrs and see what happens,if ok drop the vcore down a notch,but bear in mind you need to watch your temps. also you need to bear in mind that you could have a bad chip that won't clock up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi thanks ill do that and post results and yes 4.7 oc and stable except for the error above.


If you THINK you got a hardware error - the recommended thing is to go to STOCK BIOS and test from there.
I think you need more vcore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrivesko*
> 
> Hi guys, decided to create a new account for any help that you guys can provide me.
> 
> Planning to build my own rig though. Currently planning components are:
> 
> -Asus Sabertooth Z77
> -MSI GTX 660 Twin Frozr
> -Corsair Vengeance
> -Corsair Force 3 SSD
> -1TB Seagate 7200rpm HDD
> -Corsair GS800 Power Supply
> 
> Well these are currently my plan. Is this setup ok or are there things that i may need to consider?


Basically like my build (check my sig)
I woudl also suggest modular, or at least semi-modular as Fo pointed out.


----------



## clayer

thanks for advice guys i will up vcore and run prime overnight and report back.


----------



## Chrivesko

Thanks guys for the feedback, but still I have trouble finding out the right power supply and cooling unit. Any suggestions because to be honest I am at lost with these two.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrivesko*
> 
> Thanks guys for the feedback, but still I have trouble finding out the right power supply and cooling unit. Any suggestions because to be honest I am at lost with these two.


Well you didn't say what processor you intend to use, but I see that the Corsair H80 (older one) is on sale today on Newegg for $44 after rebate. I just installed one for a buddy with my old i5-3570k and it works great.

Otherwise, Corsair H100 is a great choice. ~$100 - watercooler

Coolermaster 212+ Evo ~ $25 cheaper air cooler


----------



## Kman3107

Today I got my Sabertooth Z77 and was happy. But when I put my computer together at first it wouldnt post and the DRAM_LED was lit.
I found it could only boot with 1 ram stick no matter how and what combination I tried.
I then figured I'd try flashing the bios to see if that would make a difference.
That made a lot of difference, since now I can't get the computer to post again. With 1 stick, 2 sticks, different slots, with and without video card.
What happend first was that the VGA_LED was lit, but after I read that flashing to 1015 would fix that, I tried it and it VGA_LED now never comes on.
BUT both CPU_LED and DRAM_LED now blink every 3-4 seconds and I for the life of me can not figure out what to do.

Tried flashback to 1015, 1708 and 1805 but that don't do anything. Tried resetting bios. Again I've tried all the ram combos and slots, with and without video card.

My biggest question is: How come I can't find ANYTHING on the internet about both and only both CPU_LED and DRAM_LED blink every 3-4 seconds on any motherboard?

I am almost an expert on googleing so I feel kinda weird not finding anything about this. So here I am asking for help with my problem and why I can't find anything about my problem.

Before you ask I don't have any more ram but both worked before the flash.
I don't have another LGA1155 mother board to check the CPU.
I don't have another LGA1155 CPU to check the motherboard.

Any other suggestions I welcome


----------



## Stevoandaredk5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Today I got my Sabertooth Z77 and was happy. But when I put my computer together at first it wouldnt post and the DRAM_LED was lit.
> I found it could only boot with 1 ram stick no matter how and what combination I tried.
> I then figured I'd try flashing the bios to see if that would make a difference.
> That made a lot of difference, since now I can't get the computer to post again. With 1 stick, 2 sticks, different slots, with and without video card.
> What happend first was that the VGA_LED was lit, but after I read that flashing to 1015 would fix that, I tried it and it VGA_LED now never comes on.
> BUT both CPU_LED and DRAM_LED now blink every 3-4 seconds and I for the life of me can not figure out what to do.
> 
> Tried flashback to 1015, 1708 and 1805 but that don't do anything. Tried resetting bios. Again I've tried all the ram combos and slots, with and without video card.
> 
> My biggest question is: How come I can't find ANYTHING on the internet about both and only both CPU_LED and DRAM_LED blink every 3-4 seconds on any motherboard?
> 
> I am almost an expert on googleing so I feel kinda weird not finding anything about this. So here I am asking for help with my problem and why I can't find anything about my problem.
> 
> Before you ask I don't have any more ram but both worked before the flash.
> I don't have another LGA1155 mother board to check the CPU.
> I don't have another LGA1155 CPU to check the motherboard.
> 
> Any other suggestions I welcome


What RAM are you using? Is it on ASUS' qualified vendor list for the Sabertooth? (http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_QVL)


----------



## Kman3107

It's not a ram issue. It seems that the older bios didn't know what was wrong cause when I flashed back to 1805 just now the CPU_LED and DRAM_LED are not giving me trouble but the VGA_LED is back in action full time. (constantly lit).

EDIT: I just tok the video card out again but the VGA_LED is still constantly lit and no post is happening on screen using the on-board hdmi.

I'm wondering if PCI-E 16x slot may be defective or if ruined it somehow? Can that stop the pc from posting?

EDIT2: Now for the hell of it I tried doing flashback from 1805 too 1708 and now every 3rd second all the leds flash!? (vga>boot>cpu>dram. in that order) But still no damn post and now my keyboard don't even get power but the mouse do?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> It's not a ram issue. It seems that the older bios didn't know what was wrong cause when I flashed back to 1805 just now the CPU_LED and DRAM_LED are not giving me trouble but the VGA_LED is back in action full time. (constantly lit).
> 
> EDIT: I just tok the video card out again but the VGA_LED is still constantly lit and no post is happening on screen using the on-board hdmi.
> 
> I'm wondering if PCI-E 16x slot may be defective or if ruined it somehow? Can that stop the pc from posting?


No i think it has to do with IMC (CPU) to RAM.
In my opinion I would get a replacement (whilst you still can easily) of the motherboard.

RAM compatibility is always something to look at, and I know Asus are picky about that, however normally most RAM will work with most motherboards nowadays.
PCI-e slot won't affect BOOT, unless your primary display is set to PCI-e ONLY and not on AUTO.
Normally even if there's nothing in there, the PC should boot without any problems with the HDMI OUT on the motherboard, using thus on-board GPU on the CPU.

So I would check a few things:
CPU socket pins
CPU itself
RAM

Long story short: I would return the motherboard.


----------



## Kman3107

My head is about to explode. I'm done taking the computer apart and made the MB ready for return. Good thing I bought it from a place near me.
I am quite pissed right now. Cause that MB was a replacement for my P8Z68 MB that just went last week.
If they give me trouble for returning 2 MB's in 2 weeks I'm gonna hit somebody..

Thanks for the suggestions. I don't really know why I even bother asking people considering I know exactly what to do.
Not new to building computers or troobleshooting.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> My head is about to explode. I'm done taking the computer apart and made the MB ready for return. Good thing I bought it from a place near me.
> I am quite pissed right now. Cause that MB was a replacement for my P8Z68 MB that just went last week.
> If they give me trouble for returning 2 MB's in 2 weeks I'm gonna hit somebody..
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I don't really know why I even bother asking people considering I know exactly what to do.
> Not new to building computers or troobleshooting.


sometimes it is a matter of getting a second opinion.
A lot of the time, I ask around simply to confirm what my beliefs are - but there are times that there are things I never thought about and overlooked, which could lead to the solution.
So, don't be afraid or shy to ask - there's never anything that is "too dumb" to ask, when it comes to PC building.
Where do I stick this power cord? lol


----------



## bryonhowley

Am really happy with my Asus Z77 Sabertooth. I picked it as the motherboard for my first intel build in a very long time. I have been with AMD since the AMD K6-2 but when I was planning my 2013 build I realized that since I was already running a AMD FX-8350 in one of my current rigs there was really no place to go up with AMD at this time.

So I made the decision to go intel and dual boot Windows 8 and OS X 10.8.2. After reading up on current 1155 motherboards I found that the Asus was would be able to handle OS X with minimal hacking and I must say it is working very good with Windows 8 and OS X.

The only downside and it is really small is after reading many post on how the i5 3570K is so much faster that any AMD FX CPU I find that in reality my FX-8120 and FX-8350 can keep up with this rig in every game I have and I have quite a few games. But really I am not surprised because I simple did not have any problems with my AMD rigs play every game I have at 1080p ultra/max.

But anyway back to the motherboard I have been with MSI for every AMD build I have done over the past few years and can say I am very happy with this intel based board it has exceeded all my expectation I had going into this build. I had originally purchased a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H and was using my Sapphire HD 6950 while I was waiting for my GTX 670 GPU to arrive. So I go to remove the 6950 making sure I push down on the PCI-E slot lock to unlock the card from the PCI-E slot remove the screws and carefully remove the card and the entire plastic PCI-E slot comes out with the card! Gigabytes response was well you must not have unlocked the card from the slot so it will not be covered by the warranty because that is considered physical damage and not covered!! Well I went ahead with the RMA with Newegg anyway and was happy to find out that Newegg's determination was it was a defective board.

Well after Gigabytes response I made decided to not use them anymore and went with Asus and the Z77 Sabertooth after remembering how well built the AMD based Sabertooth was that I had built for a friend a while back.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Where do I stick this power cord? lol


I'm gonna stick that cord up the dude that gave me that MB's ass :/

But other then that I agree.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha well get a new board in, then start accusing bro. Could be anything at this stage. Ram, cpu imc etc. But the one that stands out seems to be the board. As that's new, I would point fingers to it first.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Haha well get a new board in, then start accusing bro. Could be anything at this stage. Ram, cpu imc etc. But the one that stands out seems to be the board. As that's new, I would point fingers to it first.


I agree. I was just frustrated last night. Now that I've gotten some sleep (and painkillers) I've calmed down a bit.
I was just so happy to get the Sabertooth as e replacement for my P8Z68 since it's an upgrade. So to have it not work is kinda disappointing.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I agree. I was just frustrated last night. Now that I've gotten some sleep (and painkillers) I've calmed down a bit.
> I was just so happy to get the Sabertooth as e replacement for my P8Z68 since it's an upgrade. So to have it not work is kinda disappointing.


Well one assumed it is your board.
Did you try changing ram and/or CPU?


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Before you ask I don't have any more ram but both worked before the flash of the old MB.
> I don't have another LGA1155 mother board to check the CPU.
> I don't have another LGA1155 CPU to check the motherboard.












Just talked to the people from where I bought it and after some degrading talking fom them they finally gave me the option to return it. Guess I'll hear from them in about a week or two.


----------



## pfinch

Hey guys!

I got the Sabertooth Z77 a week ago.

Installed via UEFI Windows 8. All works well but BIOS-Changes arent recognized by Windows 8.

I tried to change the Turbo-Ratio and deactivated the LAN Controller... still no changes at windows 8. The Bios saves changes.

Please help me


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfinch*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> I got the Sabertooth Z77 a week ago.
> 
> Installed via UEFI Windows 8. All works well but BIOS-Changes arent recognized by Windows 8.
> 
> I tried to change the Turbo-Ratio and deactivated the LAN Controller... still no changes at windows 8. The Bios saves changes.
> 
> Please help me


reflash the bios and then set the changes. or load optimized defaults, reboot, load changes, reboot.


----------



## GreenJavelin

I'm in.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/insidelf.jpg/


----------



## pfinch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> reflash the bios and then set the changes. or load optimized defaults, reboot, load changes, reboot.


Thank you!!!
Do i fix the bug with reflashing the bios forever??


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfinch*
> 
> Thank you!!!
> Do i fix the bug with reflashing the bios forever??


It might reappear from time to time depending on how often you are in the bios. But you can save your profiles to a USB so it's not a very big deal.


----------



## jktmas

Ok windows 8 is making me really mad, does it turn on in the middle of the night for anyone else? if so how do i fix it.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Ok windows 8 is making me really mad, does it turn on in the middle of the night for anyone else? if so how do i fix it.


Have been running it fpr an age with no random turn ons. Make sure you have all bios options for "power on by _____" set to off and make sure you dont have any wake timers set in the OS


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Ok windows 8 is making me really mad, does it turn on in the middle of the night for anyone else? if so how do i fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> Have been running it fpr an age with no random turn ons. Make sure you have all bios options for "power on by _____" set to off and make sure you dont have any wake timers set in the OS
Click to expand...

bios turn power on by x were already off, and same with the settings in w8. Could it me my R.A.T. 3 or logitech g510?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> bios turn power on by x were already off, and same with the settings in w8. Could it me my R.A.T. 3 or logitech g510?


Only if turn on by USB is enabled and they have timers programmed.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> bios turn power on by x were already off, and same with the settings in w8. Could it me my R.A.T. 3 or logitech g510?
> 
> 
> 
> Only if turn on by USB is enabled and they have timers programmed.
Click to expand...

nope, must be something else.


----------



## h3llkill3r

so i got my prolimtech megahalem cpu cooler and 2 corsairs sp120 for it. I am trying to adjust the cpu fan speed using the ai suite 2 but it's not varying. theye are running at full rpm. any one knows how to adjust it?


----------



## sakerfalcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h3llkill3r*
> 
> so i got my prolimtech megahalem cpu cooler and 2 corsairs sp120 for it. I am trying to adjust the cpu fan speed using the ai suite 2 but it's not varying. theye are running at full rpm. any one knows how to adjust it?


CPU fan speed can only be controlled via PWM. Everything else is controlled via voltage. It's a stupid decision made by Asus.


----------



## LesPaul30

I would like to say Hello, as I just did my new build with this board. I am using the Asus Sabertooth z77 with the Thermaltake Level 10 GT case and have a question.

I am having issues with two external seagate drive which hold my home theater stuff... they keep disappearing when I plug them into the USB 3.0 or 2.0 slots. The drivers all seem to be updated- as I did that best I could. I am using my old Thermaltake 750W PSU from my previous build. This ran for about 5 years roughly 24/7. The case is up and running fine- maybe dim- could this be time to switch the PSU or would the whole gig just crap out if it was dying to begin with?

i'm not really a big gamer, but wouldn't consider myself a beginner and a build like this. Just haven't done one since my last one a few years ago.

Any ideas what might be causing this? The HDD temps are also reading very high if anyone wants to take a stab at that.


----------



## bambino167

just picked up this mb but just want to make sure which sata port does my ssd goes 2?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bambino167*
> 
> just picked up this mb but just want to make sure which sata port does my ssd goes 2?


The best one to put it into is the intel 6GB/s one.
Check your manual to confirm which one it is.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Ok windows 8 is making me really mad, does it turn on in the middle of the night for anyone else? if so how do i fix it.


Go into your device manager and then network card properties | power management | disable wake on pattern match

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h3llkill3r*
> 
> so i got my prolimtech megahalem cpu cooler and 2 corsairs sp120 for it. I am trying to adjust the cpu fan speed using the ai suite 2 but it's not varying. theye are running at full rpm. any one knows how to adjust it?


They won't work if they are plugged into the cpu fan port or cpu_opt ports. You can adjust them if you run them to one of the other ports with a splitter. PWM fans (4-pin) are best for CPU coolers, not 3 pin.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaul30*
> 
> I would like to say Hello, as I just did my new build with this board. I am using the Asus Sabertooth z77 with the Thermaltake Level 10 GT case and have a question.
> 
> I am having issues with two external seagate drive which hold my home theater stuff... they keep disappearing when I plug them into the USB 3.0 or 2.0 slots. The drivers all seem to be updated- as I did that best I could. I am using my old Thermaltake 750W PSU from my previous build. This ran for about 5 years roughly 24/7. The case is up and running fine- maybe dim- could this be time to switch the PSU or would the whole gig just crap out if it was dying to begin with?


Are they disappearing on plugin or after reboot?

If it is after reboot/shutdown try this : http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309

How old are the drives? Are they clicking? It is pretty normal for externals to run hot unless they are in a custom enclosure.

i'm not really a big gamer, but wouldn't consider myself a beginner and a build like this. Just haven't done one since my last one a few years ago.

Any ideas what might be causing this? The HDD temps are also reading very high if anyone wants to take a stab at that.[/quote]


----------



## bambino167

been reading alot of post but i don't see what i s was looking for, i have the new H100i with the noise problem but before i take it back, io was told to lower the cpu fan that the h100i goes connect to, so is there anyway how to do this?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bambino167*
> 
> been reading alot of post but i don't see what i s was looking for, i have the new H100i with the noise problem but before i take it back, io was told to lower the cpu fan that the h100i goes connect to, so is there anyway how to do this?


Hmm, wrong forum? Do you have a recording? Can you be a bit more specific? Corsair link software, Asus motherboard software, fan controller, etc.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> Ok windows 8 is making me really mad, does it turn on in the middle of the night for anyone else? if so how do i fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> Go into your device manager and then network card properties | power management | disable wake on pattern match
Click to expand...

im using a generic usb wifi stick...


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bambino167*
> 
> been reading alot of post but i don't see what i s was looking for, i have the new H100i with the noise problem but before i take it back, io was told to lower the cpu fan that the h100i goes connect to, so is there anyway how to do this?


as some ops have said you have posted in the wrong section,but having said this you need to do an firmware update with the h100i


----------



## bambino167

i feel am in the right section because what am trying to learn to do is adjust the cpu fan in the bios or asus suite if am able to this as i did with my last saberthooth p67 mb, reason for doing this it to slow down the pump to around 1800 rpm just as i did with my H100, yes i updated the firmware with no luck


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bambino167*
> 
> i feel am in the right section because what am trying to learn to do is adjust the cpu fan in the bios or asus suite if am able to this as i did with my last saberthooth p67 mb, reason for doing this it to slow down the pump to around 1800 rpm just as i did with my H100, yes i updated the firmware with no luck


if am right in saying the only way you going to control the h100i fan is by the corsair link or change the fans to different one, as with the asus suite i think your wasting your time not many of us use it.

the h100i and the h80i had a real bad problems with them with the noise corsair release a new firmware some people say it did do a fix ,some say it didn't, and a load returned them or scrap them and went with different cooler


----------



## NitrousX

What do you guys think of these temps?
3770K @ 4.5
Ultra High LLC (75%)
1.24v vcore offset
1.5v PLL
Internal PLL overvoltage enabled

LinX running:



Finishing/Idling:


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bambino167*
> 
> been reading alot of post but i don't see what i s was looking for, i have the new H100i with the noise problem but before i take it back, io was told to lower the cpu fan that the h100i goes connect to, so is there anyway how to do this?


hi there bam, the corsair software would be the best to use to change fan speed. are you sure its the fans that are making the noise ?
and at what RPM does the noise start ? install the corsair link software and make sure you have connected to the fans to the splitter that plugs into the pump.
i got my H100i in december and i dont have any noise other than when i have it running at 100% then its loud , but no funny "ticking" sounds coming from the fans
also how have you configured the Fans? are they Pushing air or are the Pulling air ?
i find it to be better if you install it to Pull air through the rad and out he top, its easier to clean the rad without taking it out of your system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> im using a generic usb wifi stick...


sup bud, if i turn my pc to sleep , it will automatically turn on in the middle of the night, however if my pc goes to sleep by its self it stays a sleep all the time without starting up automatically. its weird i to also checked all my settings and they seem fine


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> im using a generic usb wifi stick...


Try this then: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/122012-lastwake-command.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> What do you guys think of these temps?
> 3770K @ 4.5
> Ultra High LLC (75%)
> 1.24v vcore offset
> 1.5v PLL
> Internal PLL overvoltage enabled
> 
> LinX running:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finishing/Idling:


Looks solid to me.


----------



## LesPaul30

Hey all- quick question- (I solved the issue with the PSU, etc...- all works well)

What is the setting in the BIOS that I can toggle with that makes sure that the two external drives hooked into the USB 3.0 slots in the back do not boot from. When these drives are plugged in after POST, I just get a black screen where the board seems like its looking for the OS off these drives. It doesn't seem to skip it. I've looked all thru the settings and can't seem to find it. These are two external 3 TB drives for my home theatre. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaul30*
> 
> Hey all- quick question- (I solved the issue with the PSU, etc...- all works well)
> 
> What is the setting in the BIOS that I can toggle with that makes sure that the two external drives hooked into the USB 3.0 slots in the back do not boot from. When these drives are plugged in after POST, I just get a black screen where the board seems like its looking for the OS off these drives. It doesn't seem to skip it. I've looked all thru the settings and can't seem to find it. These are two external 3 TB drives for my home theatre. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309

Try experimenting with this setting.


----------



## NitrousX

Hey guys,

I noticed that ever since my overclocked my CPU, every time I boot into Windows it will stay at 4.5GHz for about 1-2 minutes before dropping down to 1.6GHz. I checked my startup folder and there's only a couple of processes. Anybody know why that is? Also within the Asus bios, there's three settings for power saving: normal, power saving, and Asus optimized. I'm using normal and not sure if I should bother using Asus optimized?



Edit:

It even idles at full turbo speed at stock clocks for about 1-2 minutes whenever I boot into Windows.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I have the same experience - no logical explanation why - but that's just what it does.
I realised this about 2 months ago, just deemed it as a Windows thing to do.


----------



## NitrousX

Glad I'm not the only one experiencing this. Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## AllanGamer

Hi, have you checked if SpeedStep is enabled?
If it is, the behavior is expected, as the CPU will only throttle to turbo frequency when there is enough CPU load to justify the higher clock and power needed.
I disabled it just for benchmarking and overclocking tests, then enabled it back to save some power.
Personally I don't see a reason to keep the CPU running at full 4 GHz or over during regular use of my computer.

Regards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I noticed that ever since my overclocked my CPU, every time I boot into Windows it will stay at 4.5GHz for about 1-2 minutes before dropping down to 1.6GHz. I checked my startup folder and there's only a couple of processes. Anybody know why that is? Also within the Asus bios, there's three settings for power saving: normal, power saving, and Asus optimized. I'm using normal and not sure if I should bother using Asus optimized?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> It even idles at full turbo speed at stock clocks for about 1-2 minutes whenever I boot into Windows.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's not exactly his point.
Basically when you boot up it is at max frequency for 2 mins. Then after that it throttles down.
For me I'm intrigued to know why it does that


----------



## AllanGamer

PC booting = CPU load, then SpeedStep sets to the max GHz as defined in BIOS.
2 mins later, no CPU load, so SpeedStep sets the multplier usually to 16x. Also the core voltage goes down to less than 1V.
Start a game or some bench tool and you can see on CPU-Z the multiplier going back to the max you have defined in BIOS.
If you disable SpeedStep, that should not happen and your CPU should remain at the max frequency all the time.


----------



## MKHunt

Not really an issue IMO. My GB board had the same thing. As did the 980fx build I did for my parents. I'm almost sure it's a Windows thing because when I switched to Windows 8, my CPU now downclocks appropriately after steam has loaded.

Sadly, starting Steam from an HDD at boot takes longer than the time from when I push the case button to being in Windows. Win 8 boots mega fast.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I was curious as to why it does it, rather than thinking it was an issue, unlike the other ocn member


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllanGamer*
> 
> PC booting = CPU load, then SpeedStep sets to the max GHz as defined in BIOS.
> 2 mins later, no CPU load, so SpeedStep sets the multplier usually to 16x. Also the core voltage goes down to less than 1V.
> Start a game or some bench tool and you can see on CPU-Z the multiplier going back to the max you have defined in BIOS.
> If you disable SpeedStep, that should not happen and your CPU should remain at the max frequency all the time.


All the power saving featues are enabled. If you read my above post, I even reset my bios to stock settings and it still does it.

I've got an SSD and it doesn't take Window 2 minutes too load all the background processes/services etc.,

Say that it takes 30 seconds MAX to load everything, it shouldn't have to sit there for about another minute or so before it drops down to 1.6GHz.

My laptop which has an i7 3610QM + 128GB SSD boots into Windows just as fast and instantly goes to 1.2GHz.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> All the power saving featues are enabled. If you read my above post, I even reset my bios to stock settings and it still does it.
> 
> I've got an SSD and it doesn't take Window 2 minutes too load all the background processes/services etc.,
> 
> Say that it takes 30 seconds MAX to load everything, it shouldn't have to sit there for about another minute or so before it drops down to 1.6GHz.
> 
> My laptop which has an i7 3610QM + 128GB SSD boots into Windows just as fast and instantly goes to 1.2GHz.


Mine does the same thing. I wouldn't worry about it.

Laptop is also a different board, different chip.


----------



## MjKll

--Posted this elsewhere--

So after assembling everything together and flashing to latest BIOS(version 1805 for Windows 8 64bit) and reading the manual carefully along with watching a tutorial, I finally get to powering on the PSU.

However, even though the motherboards green power led was on, nothing else was. This includes the CPU Fan(which i checked for blocking or tangling and made sure the CPU power was connected) RAM Led, the speaker for beeping signals, a blank screen or literally anything.

I think it's important to note that I am booting without any storage device connected as I am waiting for my shipment of an SSD and a HDD this week. But I heard you are able to do that and still see the UEFI Bios screen.

Also I am not using a video card, instead I am using the onboard graphics from my CPU by connecting the HDMI cable to my tv(not monitor) This is my first build however looking up my situation turns up people with similar issues. Many got their problem solved by using a GPU and not onboard graphics. My problem is though, my CPU fan isn't even on. I've also checked the RAM and tried different configurations.

My setup:

i7-3770k

Asus Sabertooth Z77

Corsair TX750M PSU

Corsair Vengeance 8 GB(2 x4GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz

Motherboard->HDMI->TV(tried multiple)

I'm aware there could be a few things causing this but I don't have a GPU or SSD/HDD to test this out. I though it could be a BIOS issue but it makes me wonder if the board is faulty since the CPU fan isnt turning on

-Update-

So I tried the case fans and those don't power up either, only when their directly connected via molex to the PSU(so power supply isn't faulty) All this seems to narrow down to the mobo or cpu. or I have to use a video card if theres some bios setting restrictng igpu but then the case fans or leds would turn on.


----------



## MjKll

Also no bent pins visible. I am still within my 30 return limit from Amazon. Do you guys think I should RMA it? If so how, will Amazon accept my RMA under my situation? Nothing has been tinkered with, it's been in its box in my closet the whole time.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Also no bent pins visible. I am still within my 30 return limit from Amazon. Do you guys think I should RMA it? If so how, will Amazon accept my RMA under my situation? Nothing has been tinkered with, it's been in its box in my closet the whole time.


On faulty items, Amazon will pay shipping both ways.


----------



## MjKll

So how do they(amazon, newegg etc) go about that? They test it with other equipment and if it works for them, they ship it back with a notice or email saying so? Also do you suggest a quick RMA if I still can't figure this out by tomorow? I'm wondering if my setup is wrong, hdmi cable between my mobo and tv, no storage device connected, no GPU etc.. but i cant test those right now.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Also no bent pins visible. I am still within my 30 return limit from Amazon. Do you guys think I should RMA it? If so how, will Amazon accept my RMA under my situation? Nothing has been tinkered with, it's been in its box in my closet the whole time.


Have you verified your 24-pin and 8-pin are plugged in tight?

Have you tried reversing the direction of your case plugs to the motherboard header? aka power sw + - to motherboard pins?

I'm referring to the plugs that run from the case buttons to the motherboard for the power switch, reset button, hd led, and power led.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> So how do they(amazon, newegg etc) go about that? They test it with other equipment and if it works for them, they ship it back with a notice or email saying so? Also do you suggest a quick RMA if I still can't figure this out by tomorow? I'm wondering if my setup is wrong, hdmi cable between my mobo and tv, no storage device connected, no GPU etc.. but i cant test those right now.


Amazon doesn't test equipment last time I checked. RMA/return/replacement via Amazon is very simple.


----------



## MjKll

Thanks for the response guys! It can be scary out on your first build. Anyway, yeah I tried reversing the case connectors, i tried with and without the q connector. Let me mess around with the connections a bit more and test the PSU. I feel like it may be the board or I am totally forgetting something.(probably) And amazons rma process is simple? I'd of thought they test their equipment, tho that sounds something newegg probably do.


----------



## MjKll

Interesting development. So i did the 'paper clip' test and connected my fans and dvd drive and everything powered up normally. Then I connected everything back to the motherboard(with the case fans still connected via molex direct to psu) and again nothing but he motherboard green led was on. not even the fans connceted directly to the PSU. I dont know what to make of this.


----------



## MjKll

Im an wondering if its safe to use my HP computers 300 watt powersupply to connect to the motherboard. Is that a good idea? it would certainly narrow it down even further.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Im an wondering if its safe to use my HP computers 300 watt powersupply to connect to the motherboard. Is that a good idea? it would certainly narrow it down even further.


I'd lean towards no. Their PSU's are generally junk. The only times a machine has gotten power and not turned on for me have been:

1.Bent cpu pins/bent mobo pins
2. PowerSW polarity
3. Didn't plug in 24/8-pin connector all the way


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I'd lean towards no. Their PSU's are generally junk. The only times a machine has gotten power and not turned on for me have been:
> 
> 1.Bent cpu pins/bent mobo pins
> 2. PowerSW polarity
> 3. Didn't plug in 24/8-pin connector all the way


Yeah I figured that would be a bad idea. So still nothing after switching RAM slots, using a single stick at a time too but I know that can't be the problem. All the LED connectors are in the right way but none besides that green one turn on. I am wondering if the mobo needs the CPU to be detected for it to show LEDs for any of the components. Basically, if there is no CPU found, then does anything happen at all, like beeping(from the speaker) or LEDs showing some error? Also the very, very first thing I did was update the bios from a usb stick and everything went well. Do you think it could be a corrupt BIOS or something? and would Amazon even replace it if that was the case?


----------



## MjKll

Ok, can I get a refund from Amazon if I return this board? I'd rather purchase the board later(same one) but have a better set up(Monitor, GPU, and SSD/HDD). If it happens to be my CPU thats faulty, I am screwed as the newegg 30 day return limit has passed a bit(40ish days gone by) but hopefully it's just the board and ghetto hdmi setup.


----------



## MjKll

Also will messing with the BIOS(CMOS) or reverting to an older BIOS render any return or refund options useless?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Also will messing with the BIOS(CMOS) or reverting to an older BIOS render any return or refund options useless?


wow you would find your problem is down to the psu not the motherboard the same thing happen to me a couple of months ago,we went through everything trying to get to the bottom of it and some reason we did not test the psu.
what i did was brought another motherboard as i could not wait up to 2 weeks rma from asus,so we cornected everything up power up and the same thing happened,we said at the time it could not be the psu as we got green lights on the board showing so their is power WRONG we took out the old psu and temp put in a 400 watt and bingo everything started up ok.

so just test your 300w psu as a test only and see what happens:thumb:


----------



## Kman3107

So I'm back and this time with a brand new Sabertooth Z77 and still it wont let me boot with 2 ram sticks? Why is that? That ram works.
The slots work. I have never met this kind of obstacle before. Please help as I kinda need that extra ram stick.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> So I'm back and this time with a brand new Sabertooth Z77 and still it wont let me boot with 2 ram sticks? Why is that? That ram works.
> The slots work. I have never met this kind of obstacle before. Please help as I kinda need that extra ram stick.


you need to to tell us what ram you using, which slots you putting them in etc, it seems a bit strange that you use 2 z77 and can't boot so to me it seem's it is down to your ram:thumb:


----------



## Kman3107

It's Corsair Vengeance 8GB CL10 sticks. I know the ram works fine on Asus P8Z68 with both sticks and did a memtest 2 weeks ago and it came back clean. And the Sabertooth takes 1 stick just fine. And why does it matter where the ram is when if you read my post you can see I wrote "the ram works. the slots work" I would think that makes it clear I've checked both ram and slots (also ram in all slots and all types of combination).

So the question remains, why wont Corsair Vengeance 8GB CL10 (CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10) work with Sabertooth Z77?

EDIT: I read through the QVL and it seems my ram arent on the list. I'm guessing that means they just wont work with 2 sticks then?


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> wow you would find your problem is down to the psu not the motherboard the same thing happen to me a couple of months ago,we went through everything trying to get to the bottom of it and some reason we did not test the psu.
> what i did was brought another motherboard as i could not wait up to 2 weeks rma from asus,so we cornected everything up power up and the same thing happened,we said at the time it could not be the psu as we got green lights on the board showing so their is power WRONG we took out the old psu and temp put in a 400 watt and bingo everything started up ok.
> 
> so just test your 300w psu as a test only and see what happens:thumb:


Hmmm that's strange since my PSU powers on the case fans and led lights and dvd drive when doing the paper clip test. But when it's hooked up to the board nothing happens other than that green light. Doesn't that suggest the issue lies with the motherboard? I mean, if you had everything hooked up, minus a storage drive and a discrete ideo card(using onboard CPU video thru an HDMI cable) just to boot to the UEFI screen(all after a usb flashback to the latest bios) but only the green power light turns on, what component springs to mind that might be the issue?


----------



## MjKll

If I am desperate tomorow, I may use the psu from a cheaper home pc. I am afraid of losing the whole build tho using a psu from a home pc. 300 watts good enuff to power on a Sabertooth Z77 and 3770k?


----------



## MjKll

Also for reassurance, what is the absolute minimum you need for a new pc to post?
And what needs to be connected?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> If I am desperate tomorow, I may use the psu from a cheaper home pc. I am afraid of losing the whole build tho using a psu from a home pc. 300 watts good enuff to power on a Sabertooth Z77 and 3770k?


Yes with no video card. You can always try the new psu on the older machine.

Bare minimum = No video card, no hard drive, 1 stick of memory, cpu, 20 pin + 4 pin cpu connector, keyboard.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Also for reassurance, what is the absolute minimum you need for a new pc to post? this all depends what you got cornected
> And what needs to be connected?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> wow you would find your problem is down to the psu not the motherboard the same thing happen to me a couple of months ago,we went through everything trying to get to the bottom of it and some reason we did not test the psu.
> what i did was brought another motherboard as i could not wait up to 2 weeks rma from asus,so we cornected everything up power up and the same thing happened,we said at the time it could not be the psu as we got green lights on the board showing so their is power WRONG we took out the old psu and temp put in a 400 watt and bingo everything started up ok.
> 
> so just test your 300w psu as a test only and see what happens:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm that's strange since my PSU powers on the case fans and led lights and dvd drive when doing the paper clip test. But when it's hooked up to the board nothing happens other than that green light. Doesn't that suggest the issue lies with the motherboard? I mean, if you had everything hooked up, minus a storage drive and a discrete ideo card(using onboard CPU video thru an HDMI cable) just to boot to the UEFI screen(all after a usb flashback to the latest bios) but only the green power light turns on, what component springs to mind that might be the issue?
Click to expand...

i still say its your psu their might be enough power going through to power your fans,dvd drive but not enough to power the pc up.
try the 300w psu leave out the graghics card,dvd drive and the led lights and see if it boots up into the bios,if it doe's then try it with your old psu and see what happens if you don't boot up then you know its the psu.
to find out how much psu power you need try this link and input your set up http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/

if everything still fail's above you then have eliminate things ie: is the cpu seated correct,bent pins,ram etc etc,but the way it sounds i put my bottom $ its psu


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> It's Corsair Vengeance 8GB CL10 sticks. I know the ram works fine on Asus P8Z68 with both sticks and did a memtest 2 weeks ago and it came back clean. And the Sabertooth takes 1 stick just fine. And why does it matter where the ram is when if you read my post you can see I wrote "the ram works. the slots work" I would think that makes it clear I've checked both ram and slots (also ram in all slots and all types of combination).
> 
> So the question remains, why wont Corsair Vengeance 8GB CL10 (CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10) work with Sabertooth Z77?
> 
> EDIT: I read through the QVL and it seems my ram arent on the list. I'm guessing that means they just wont work with 2 sticks then?


out of intrest what voltage is these ram sticks you using as these ram sticks come in 1.35v and 1.50v if you using the 1.35v it will not work on this motherboard as it's 1.5v

Vengeance memory is designed specifically for the latest CPUs. Vengeance modules are available in 1.5V and 1.35V configurations for maximum compatibility with all Intel® Core™ i3, i5 and i7 processors, as well as the 2nd generation Intel Core processor family. With dual channel, triple channel, and quad channel kits, there's a Vengeance configuration that's perfect for your motherboard.


----------



## Kman3107

So what's the most recommended ram for z77?
Looks like I'm gonna need new ram in the near future since only 1 of my CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 sticks work with z77.

EDIT: 1.5v


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> So what's the most recommended ram for z77?
> Looks like I'm gonna need new ram in the near future since only 1 of my CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 sticks work with z77.
> 
> EDIT: 1.5v


1.5cv is the lowest you'll find in MOST ram.
The MAX one should go on ANY board with ANY RAM is usually 1.65v

So depends on your ram - as to what to set it at.
I have my rated 1.5v's set at 1.55v


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 1.5cv is the lowest you'll find in MOST ram.
> The MAX one should go on ANY board with ANY RAM is usually 1.65v
> 
> So depends on your ram - as to what to set it at.
> I have my rated 1.5v's set at 1.55v


Dominator Platinums are warranted to 1.9V


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Dominator Platinums are warranted to 1.9V


Seriously 0.0!?
That's mental


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Seriously 0.0!?
> That's mental


Now if only the Ivy Bridge IMC could be safe for 1.9V lol.


----------



## uci2ci

Hello,
I need help from the club. For some reason, my CHA_FAN3 is not working. I tried every possible fan setting in the bios, but it wont work. Its really worth RMAing. My question is, since i dont use the assist fans, can I plug a 120mm fan into the assist fan header. Well.... I already did, and it seems to work just fine, but do you think it may cause any damage to the board in the long run?


----------



## billythekid2012

Hi guy i installed a h100i last week and overclock my i73770k to 4.5 i ran linx with max ram and prime95 on blend and my h100i is on balnce mod

just want to see if my temps look good and prime is still running i read i should run for 12 hours


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 1.5cv is the lowest you'll find in MOST ram.
> The MAX one should go on ANY board with ANY RAM is usually 1.65v
> 
> So depends on your ram - as to what to set it at.
> I have my rated 1.5v's set at 1.55v


haha. I'm so sorry for the way I asked my question xD
I know about ram voltage and that stuff. Ment to be asking WHICH ram is popular with the sabertooth z77 xD

EDIT: Also, since my ram aint on the QVL, should I refrain from overcloking until I get new ones?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> haha. I'm so sorry for the way I asked my question xD
> I know about ram voltage and that stuff. Ment to be asking WHICH ram is popular with the sabertooth z77 xD
> 
> EDIT: Also, since my ram aint on the QVL, should I refrain from overcloking until I get new ones?


Nah OC the heck out of it if you want.
Just make sure it works beforehand on stock, so that you know you got no compatibility problems.
I don't personally see the gains in OC'ing RAM - unless you bench.

As for recommended RAM:
Corsair Vengeance is the most popular RAM wit the Noobtooth Z77.


----------



## Kman3107

I got another question (they are just rolling in), I'm trying the same exact settings on my "noobtooth" as you called it that I used on my p6z68 but that wont work. Should I maybe start from scratch? Is it really that big of a difference with a new motherboard?

EDIT: Just for the heck of it I tried putting offset + to auto and with my 4.6ghz oc the vcore was as high as 1.47.
That's ALOT higher then what I had on my p8z68. Can I then assume that I need alot more vcore on this motherboard if I want that 4.6ghz oc?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I got another question (they are just rolling in), I'm trying the same exact settings on my "noobtooth" as you called it that I used on my p6z68 but that wont work. Should I maybe start from scratch? Is it really that big of a difference with a new motherboard?
> 
> EDIT: Just for the heck of it I tried putting offset + to auto and with my 4.6ghz oc the vcore was as high as 1.47.
> That's ALOT higher then what I had on my p8z68. Can I then assume that I need alot more vcore on this motherboard if I want that 4.6ghz oc?


You should check out the OC'ing IB thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

AUTO, especially on OFFSET is NOT stable, nor will give you a good reading of what you need.
vcore CAN be as high as 1.5v for 4.6ghz - it just depends on your CPU silicone lottery chip.
Mine for 4.5ghz needs 1.27v

Some people need only 1.16v for 4.5ghz OC's.

So long story short:
-Don't OC like that
-Every chip is different
-RAM OC'ing I'm not a pro at - but it depends on yuor board, and how it can handle the RAM - my QVL Vengeance ram, couldn't OC - so I gave up trying.

Don't forget to hit the rep button if someone helps you


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You should check out the OC'ing IB thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards
> 
> AUTO, especially on OFFSET is NOT stable, nor will give you a good reading of what you need.
> vcore CAN be as high as 1.5v for 4.6ghz - it just depends on your CPU silicone lottery chip.
> Mine for 4.5ghz needs 1.27v
> 
> Some people need only 1.16v for 4.5ghz OC's.
> 
> So long story short:
> -Don't OC like that
> -Every chip is different
> -RAM OC'ing I'm not a pro at - but it depends on yuor board, and how it can handle the RAM - my QVL Vengeance ram, couldn't OC - so I gave up trying.
> 
> Don't forget to hit the rep button if someone helps you


I don't mean to be an ass but I know all this except the "offset auto is unstable" part. That's why I keep asking SPESIFIC questions and not general ones. When you give me the right help I'll give you all the rep you deserve but when you keep giving me answers to questions I never asked it's kinda useless for me.

What I wanted to know was
Quote:


> Should I maybe start from scratch? Is it really that big of a difference with a new motherboard? That's ALOT higher then what I had on my p8z68. Can I then assume that I need alot more vcore on this motherboard if I want that 4.6ghz oc?


And the only answer I got from your "ramble" was that I can't assume anything from my auto offset experiment.

I am also googeling while waiting for answers in here and from what I've figured I should start from scratch as my new motherboard might not even come close to my old motherboards settings.

I thank you for your time and patience with me and for that +1. But next time I ask a question try to keep it simple since I know alot already and most of the info you have given me is old news to me







Again thank you.

EDIT: Also if I'm not mistaken there is some difference in oc'ing sandy bridge and ivy bridge?
So I'll stick to what I already know about sandy bridge oc'ing so I don't mix up something I should'nt.


----------



## MjKll

Tried the HP 300 watt power supply but no cigar, does the same thing(only shows the green mobo led) Tried the Corsair RAM on the HP as well and they worked fine. It boils down to CPU, the board or pure human error. Could be that last one, I have about a week and a half before the 30 days rma is up so ill just keep trying. It's strange though, I should at the very least be getting the troubleshooting led lights across the board. Or am i mistaken and it only does that after POST? Would it, for example, show the CPU led light if it isn't detected?

Such an annoyance because I know this is an awesome board. Ill just end up returning it in a few days if I can't figure it out because I partially believe that my setup isn't helping and I'd rather not hang on to the board until I got everything together only for the same thing to happen. I don't have much else to do that wouldn't require me to have a storage device or gpu and connect to a proper monitor through a dvi cable or something, none of which I have. Ill probably buy back this board in mid or late april, with a graphics card and ssd and a legit monitor(im using crappy obscure brand televisions+hdmi+onboard igpu), that way I can at least have more options available to try out.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I don't mean to be an ass but I know all this except the "offset auto is unstable" part. That's why I keep asking SPESIFIC questions and not general ones. When you give me the right help I'll give you all the rep you deserve but when you keep giving me answers to questions I never asked it's kinda useless for me.
> 
> What I wanted to know was
> And the only answer I got from your "ramble" was that I can't assume anything from my auto offset experiment.
> 
> I am also googeling while waiting for answers in here and from what I've figured I should start from scratch as my new motherboard might not even come close to my old motherboards settings.
> 
> I thank you for your time and patience with me and for that +1. But next time I ask a question try to keep it simple since I know alot already and most of the info you have given me is old news to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again thank you.
> 
> EDIT: Also if I'm not mistaken there is some difference in oc'ing sandy bridge and ivy bridge?
> So I'll stick to what I already know about sandy bridge oc'ing so I don't mix up something I should'nt.


You should always start from scratch with a new motherboard, and see the guide I linked to you - no matter how "pro" you think you might be - no one, with enough given knowledge would ever carry OC settigns from one board to another, ESPECIALLY if the technology within the chip is different (SB vs IB)

When someone takes the item to help you, even if it might not directly answer your question - it is still someone taking time to type on their keyboard, in order to try and resolve your problem.

Good luck


----------



## MKHunt

My experience with this board and voltages is that on auto it is super over zealous. My 2600k would play 4.5 fine at 1.35 on my GB board and it was fine at 1.355 on this board. That said, some settings are rather different between z68 and z77 so I had to redo my sandy overclock anyway. I mean on auto it put my 3770k at 1.5V for 4.7 but it runs 4.7 100% at 1.3V.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> out of intrest what voltage is these ram sticks you using as these ram sticks come in 1.35v and 1.50v if you using the 1.35v it will not work on this motherboard as it's 1.5v
> 
> Vengeance memory is designed specifically for the latest CPUs. Vengeance modules are available in 1.5V and 1.35V configurations for maximum compatibility with all Intel® Core™ i3, i5 and i7 processors, as well as the 2nd generation Intel Core processor family. With dual channel, triple channel, and quad channel kits, there's a Vengeance configuration that's perfect for your motherboard.


1.35v ram works just fine. I'm living proof. That IMC isn't even working up a sweat!


----------



## Kman3107

Wow this is so lame.. I'm already at 1.416vcore on my x46 clock and still getting bsods. This damn sabertooth is killing me :/
I had just finally gotten used to the fact that I got a sucky chip and now sabertooth is making things worse by demanding more vcore.
Next time I by a cpu I'm gonna return it if it sucks.

I read a couple posts from people saying they had better oc's with z77 then z68 so I was so psyched. How stupid of me to think I'd be lucky with my computer parts for once.

This concludes my whiny rant.


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i still say its your psu their might be enough power going through to power your fans,dvd drive but not enough to power the pc up.
> try the 300w psu leave out the graghics card,dvd drive and the led lights and see if it boots up into the bios,if it doe's then try it with your old psu and see what happens if you don't boot up then you know its the psu.
> to find out how much psu power you need try this link and input your set up http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/
> 
> if everything still fail's above you then have eliminate things ie: is the cpu seated correct,bent pins,ram etc etc,but the way it sounds i put my bottom $ its psu


Whoa you were right, it was the power supply! I just realized I hadn't jump started the board when I had the HP connected yesterday. So I went back and hooked the mobo to the HP(Only the 24 pin pluged in as the CPU power connection was too short, also no ram or cpu inserted as MotherFo similarly suggested as it's only 300watts) and then touched the two pins, which I stupidly hadn't done before, then BOOM! A red led light by the ram slots appeared for about 3 seconds! Out of curiosity, I then hooked up my corsair psu to the HP and then...... nada. It failed to start the HP board up. Then I reversed everything back to make sure, and yep my corsair psu wouldnt jump start my Sabertooth(just enough to power the green light like before) but the HP was fine with its stock power supply. Wow, I never would of thought because it was powering up my case led and fans. I may still return the board as I feel I may have messed up the bios by reverting back(after I updated it) and I don't want to deal with that once I buy a new power supply. I am so relieved I know what the problem is now though, thanks guys(especially chilidog and MotherFo), maybe I will pop in a later when I get the whole build sorted!


----------



## daclaes

How long is it between the 1st and 2nd PCIe, the long ones (lol), im wondering how long of a SLI bridge i need


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daclaes*
> 
> How long is it between the 1st and 2nd PCIe, the long ones (lol), im wondering how long of a SLI bridge i need


You didn't get an SLI bridge with your board?


----------



## daclaes

I think I did, I just can't find it









Edit; looks like its 70mm


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daclaes*
> 
> I think I did, I just can't find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit; looks like its 70mm


I just got out my box, and the SLI bridge - and I can confirm mine is 70mm long - thus 7cm


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Whoa you were right, it was the power supply! I just realized I hadn't jump started the board when I had the HP connected yesterday. So I went back and hooked the mobo to the HP(Only the 24 pin pluged in as the CPU power connection was too short, also no ram or cpu inserted as MotherFo similarly suggested as it's only 300watts) and then touched the two pins, which I stupidly hadn't done before, then BOOM! A red led light by the ram slots appeared for about 3 seconds! Out of curiosity, I then hooked up my corsair psu to the HP and then...... nada. It failed to start the HP board up. Then I reversed everything back to make sure, and yep my corsair psu wouldnt jump start my Sabertooth(just enough to power the green light like before) but the HP was fine with its stock power supply. Wow, I never would of thought because it was powering up my case led and fans. I may still return the board as I feel I may have messed up the bios by reverting back(after I updated it) and I don't want to deal with that once I buy a new power supply. I am so relieved I know what the problem is now though, thanks guys(especially chilidog and MotherFo), maybe I will pop in a later when I get the whole build sorted!


Woot +rep it up









Yes, come back and show pretty pix.


----------



## daclaes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I just got out my box, and the SLI bridge - and I can confirm mine is 70mm long - thus 7cm


Thanks!


----------



## Kman3107

So. If I'm stable now, (I've only run 1344 & 1792 FFT's for 20+ min each) it means my the sabertooth z77 demands 0.032 more voltage then my p8z68 board. Also giving me +/- 8 *C more. Guess I'll just forget keeping my 24/7 4.6ghz oc. Going for 4.5ghz now.

Right now I wish I could trade my motherboard and cpu in for something else.

EDIT: Like beer.


----------



## NitrousX

Hey guys,

I'm in need of dire help. Last night I was attempting to see if I could lower voltage needed for my 4.5GHz. It successfully passed 20 runs of IBT with 90% memory. I restarted the computer then Windows instantly locked up. Windows continues to hard lock even when I reset the CPU to stock speeds. I just reset the CMOS jumper on my Sabertooth and now Windows boots fine but any changes I make in the bios such as turbo frequency (45x) isn't reflected in Window. In other words, my CPU is turboing to 3.9GHz when I set to 4.5GHz in the bios. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!








Edit: Reflashed bios and all is well.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm in need of dire help. Last night I was attempting to see if I could lower voltage needed for my 4.5GHz. It successfully passed 20 runs of IBT with 90% memory. I restarted the computer then Windows instantly locked up. Windows continues to hard lock even when I reset the CPU to stock speeds. I just reset the CMOS jumper on my Sabertooth and now Windows boots fine but any changes I make in the bios such as turbo frequency (45x) isn't reflected in Window. In other words, my CPU is turboing to 3.9GHz when I set to 4.5GHz in the bios. Any help would be much appreciated.
> ]


Corrupt BIOS. Reflash. May have to erase, zero out, and rewrite BIOS if CPU PLL Voltage, VCCSA Voltage, or PCH Voltage was changed outside of normal parameters.

Also, I didn't get here in time, but it was definitely a current draw issue with the power supply from another post.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Corrupt BIOS. Reflash. May have to erase, zero out, and rewrite BIOS if CPU PLL Voltage, VCCSA Voltage, or PCH Voltage was changed outside of normal parameters.
> 
> Also, I didn't get here in time, but it was definitely a current draw issue with the power supply from another post.


Could someone point in the right direction on how I could go about reflashing my bios?

Thanks!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Could someone point in the right direction on how I could go about reflashing my bios?
> 
> Thanks!


Drop the .cap file on a fat32 formatted flash drive, enter advanced bios> tools> ezflash2> update.


----------



## darkphantom

I need to go back to the bios to read up on this stuff.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Drop the .cap file on a fat32 formatted flash drive, enter advanced bios> tools> ezflash2> update.


I got it. Thanks a bunch!

For gaming, anyone think there's a difference between 4.4 and 4.5GHz? I've since lowered my overclock down to 4.4 and it shaved off a good 3-5c.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

You won't notice a difference


----------



## Uzanar

Hey fellow Sabertooth-owners!

I am running my computer with this motherboard and a 2700K-CPU.
I am thinking about overclocking but I have 3 questions that I hope you can answer









1. Should I flash the BIOS before I start overclocking? According to my BIOS my version is "0604x64" and when I look at Asus.com there are LOTS of BIOS that are 0801 and up so it feels like my version is ancient or something









2. Should I install the "Thermal armor"? For some reason, I skipped that and the fans when I installed my computer. How much difference does the thermal armor do in terms of cooling-performance?

3. What is the best "way" to overclock on Asus Sabertooth Z77 according to you? By that I mean to overclock with offset VS without offset etc.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

1. Yes update to the latest
2. I found only a 5c difference between having them on or off. I don't have the fans installed as they whined too much
3.you should oc on manual first, then move unto offset once you've determined your stable manual. If you check my Sig you'll be able to see my bios and an explanation to offset. Not sure what differences you'll need for SB over IB though. Always the biggest thing in ocing is volts and temps


----------



## Uzanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 1. Yes update to the latest
> 2. I found only a 5c difference between having them on or off. I don't have the fans installed as they whined too much
> 3.you should oc on manual first, then move unto offset once you've determined your stable manual. If you check my Sig you'll be able to see my bios and an explanation to offset. Not sure what differences you'll need for SB over IB though. Always the biggest thing in ocing is volts and temps


Ok, Should I start at like 1.3V and work my way up when I get instability problems? No dangers whatsoever with 1.3V?
And about the BIOS, I have heard that it's really dangerous to do it because your whole motherboard can **** up but since this motherboard even have a feature for flashing BIOS I think that it seemed like a simple task. Is it a bit dangerous or is it like installing a graphics-driver? (Through the USB-port on the back)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Ok, Should I start at like 1.3V and work my way up when I get instability problems? No dangers whatsoever with 1.3V?
> And about the BIOS, I have heard that it's really dangerous to do it because your whole motherboard can **** up but since this motherboard even have a feature for flashing BIOS I think that it seemed like a simple task. Is it a bit dangerous or is it like installing a graphics-driver? (Through the USB-port on the back)


I really can't tell you what voltage to start from SB - but for IB you should start at 1.2v
The difference between 1.2v and 1.3v is HUGE - although it might not seem it on paper.

As for BIOS flashing - nah it is super safe nowadays - do it via the ai suite 2 thing.
It is like installing a GFX driver, where you leave your pc doing its thing for 5mins, and then rejoice.


----------



## Uzanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I really can't tell you what voltage to start from SB - but for IB you should start at 1.2v
> The difference between 1.2v and 1.3v is HUGE - although it might not seem it on paper.
> 
> As for BIOS flashing - nah it is super safe nowadays - do it via the ai suite 2 thing.
> It is like installing a GFX driver, where you leave your pc doing its thing for 5mins, and then rejoice.


Ok, so you install the BIOS in Windows? Via that AI Suite 2-software?
I can't seem to find AI Suite 2 from Asus own site and if it's their software they should have it on their website and it should be the top 1 result when you Google it but it isn't


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Ok, so you install the BIOS in Windows? Via that AI Suite 2-software?
> I can't seem to find AI Suite 2 from Asus own site and if it's their software they should have it on their website and it should be the top 1 result when you Google it but it isn't


I've seen and heard way too many horror stories about updating bios(es) via windows and bricking their machine. I always do mine by flash drive with EZ flash in the bios.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Ok, so you install the BIOS in Windows? Via that AI Suite 2-software?
> I can't seem to find AI Suite 2 from Asus own site and if it's their software they should have it on their website and it should be the top 1 result when you Google it but it isn't


yup that's the software indeed.
Don't install everything that comes with AI suite 2 (well you can if you want to, I refrain to do so)
ALl you need is asus update and system information to flash the bios.
http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

Go there- put your OS.
Download the latest bios 1805.
Download AI suite 2 (the whole package)

And that's it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I've seen and heard way too many horror stories about updating bios(es) via windows and bricking their machine. I always do mine by flash drive with EZ flash in the bios.


In recent motherboards, or are you referring to old motherboards that used to do this?
As old motherboards -> I would agree. But with these new ones the chances of failure are 1%


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yup that's the software indeed.
> Don't install everything that comes with AI suite 2 (well you can if you want to, I refrain to do so)
> ALl you need is asus update and system information to flash the bios.
> http://uk.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download
> 
> Go there- put your OS.
> Download the latest bios 1805.
> Download AI suite 2 (the whole package)
> 
> And that's it.
> In recent motherboards, or are you referring to old motherboards that used to do this?
> As old motherboards -> I would agree. But with these new ones the chances of failure are 1%


Old and newish.

Most new boards have failsafes to prevent you from bricking it though. I've seen software flashes fail, but bios flashes work. To each his own. I know you like doing them via the suite even though you don't like the suite


----------



## billythekid2012

God i am realy getting ticked with this board
It well not keep my bios setting no more then a few day it will go back to 4.2 or keep my settng
but drop from 4.5 to 3.9.

and i ran prime for over 12 hours and linx for 30 passes with all memory

i re flashed the bios i cleared the cmos i even took the battery out for a day

it been doing this for like 2 months and the thing is i am not even saving a proflie in the bios for my o\
overclock so how is it finding 4.2

And it not my temps at 4.5 the 72c i am on 1805 is there like a bug in this bios


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> God i am realy getting ticked with this board
> It well not keep my bios setting no more then a few day it will go back to 4.2 or keep my settng
> but drop from 4.5 to 3.9.
> 
> and i ran prime for over 12 hours and linx for 30 passes with all memory
> 
> i re flashed the bios i cleared the cmos i even took the battery out for a day
> 
> it been doing this for like 2 months and the thing is i am not even saving a proflie in the bios for my o\
> overclock so how is it finding 4.2
> 
> And it not my temps at 4.5 the 72c i am on 1805 is there like a bug in this bios


Have you replaced the battery?

Are you messing around with AI Tuner or anything like that? (ai suite)


----------



## billythekid2012

no i have not used any asus software sence day one
i am sure the battery is good

the bord is only like 4 months


----------



## Inacoma79

Anyone here using the Samsung 30nm ram on their boards? been picking up good things about them and wanted to scoop up a 1600 8Gb set from micro center tonight. My 1866 Vengence kits are meh...


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Anyone here using the Samsung 30nm ram on their boards? been picking up good things about them and wanted to scoop up a 1600 8Gb set from micro center tonight. My 1866 Vengence kits are meh...


I run 8gigs at 2200/9-10-10-26 1T


----------



## billythekid2012

i had windows 8 in for a month and updated the firmware to 8.1. for the bord
is there any way to roll it back to the old frimware now that i am back on windows 7


----------



## Kman3107

So I own 2xCMZ8GX3M1A1600C10. But I they arent on the QVL and I can't get pc to boot with more then 1 stick.

Question: Has anyone else in here managed to get 2 or more of these rams to work with this motherboard?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billythekid2012*
> 
> no i have not used any asus software sence day one
> i am sure the battery is good
> 
> the bord is only like 4 months


take the battery out and test it on a volt meter, the battery should be at 3volts anything lower then it wont keep settings


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> So I own 2xCMZ8GX3M1A1600C10. But I they arent on the QVL and I can't get pc to boot with more then 1 stick.
> 
> Question: Has anyone else in here managed to get 2 or more of these rams to work with this motherboard?


i have 2x corsair vengeance 4GB 2400Mhz C10 1.65v sticks running at 2400mhz, and they not in the QVL
ok, so i take it you have checked that both sticks are working 100% meaning you have booted with each one separately ?
and are you putting both sticks in a1 and b1 or a2 and b2 ?

have you updated your bios to the Latest version ?
if you have maybe try reverting back 2 versions


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> i have 2x corsair vengeance 4GB 2400Mhz C10 1.65v sticks running at 2400mhz, and they not in the QVL
> ok, so i take it you have checked that both sticks are working 100% meaning you have booted with each one separately ?
> and are you putting both sticks in a1 and b1 or a2 and b2 ?
> 
> have you updated your bios to the Latest version ?
> if you have maybe try reverting back 2 versions


I've checked both sticks to make sure they are working yes. Booted with each stick separately and tried all combinations there are (I think, got frustrated so might have missed one).
I'm still at 1708, I'm kinda dreading the thought of flashing bios, since the reason I have this board is cause I ruined my last board (p8z68) by flashing (and I've flashed other boards in the past with success so I'm pretty sure I did everything right).

Before I try to flash I'll just ask a simple question. Does warranty cover failed flash?

EDIT: Second question. Wich flash options is safest? Flash utillity in bios, flashback usb or windows flash utillity?
I'm partial to the bios flash. But only cause it's almost the same as the dos flash and that has worked for me in the past.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> I run 8gigs at 2200/9-10-10-26 1T


Thanks! Picked up the 1600 / 11-11-11-28. How did you determine your timings and what voltages are you running them at?


----------



## MjKll

So while I wait for my replacement power supply, iv'e been looking up the drivers and came upon this in the(win8 64bit) LAN section: "*Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver." And then it has a link to the utility. I looked up on google and came across people having problems not downloading this update utility and instead updating their LAN driver first. Can anyone explain if they had to do this?

Also the USB drivers seemed to be missing in the Windows 8 64bit section until I downloaded the Chipset and in a couple sub folders there was a folder named USB and another called USB copy and there is two more folders named 32 and 64. It's all a bit confusing, down to the execution as there is multiple executable applications in every sub folder. I know this sounds like a chore, but can anyone explain what drivers are needed and how to go about installing them? Like, do I just execute AsusSetup at the root of all the folders?

And should I just use the NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection before updating the LAN driver to be on the safe side? And am I right in thinking that even if I do the AsusSetup in the Chipset folder, that I should still go into the sub folders and execute AsusSetup in the USB folder?

I want to be very careful around these drivers so it would be a HUGE weight off my shoulders if someone could walk me through a bit.

EDIT
yes shame on me for using windows 8 but 7 is pricier than I'd like and having used 8 on another PC iv'e never encountered any compatibility issues(other than older DOS games but they hardly ran under win7 anyway)

EDIT
Also are there any Utilities that I should get? Like Thermal Radar, Ai Charger, or USB3 Boost? I'd rather not install any junk I won't need but if there's a few good things I'll be missing out on, I'd like to know thanks! This is probably a record for how many questions in one post lol but I'd rather not run into more issues after having that scare with my power supply.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> "*Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver."


Install the chipset driver
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36
Quote:


> So while I wait for my replacement power supply, iv'e been looking up the drivers and came upon this in the(win8 64bit) LAN section: "*Note: Please install NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection first before you update this driver." And then it has a link to the utility. I looked up on google and came across people having problems not downloading this update utility and instead updating their LAN driver first. Can anyone explain if they had to do this?


https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36 under LAN
Quote:


> Also the USB drivers seemed to be missing in the Windows 8 64bit section until I downloaded the Chipset and in a couple sub folders there was a folder named USB and another called USB copy and there is two more folders named 32 and 64. It's all a bit confusing, down to the execution as there is multiple executable applications in every sub folder. I know this sounds like a chore, but can anyone explain what drivers are needed and how to go about installing them? Like, do I just execute AsusSetup at the root of all the folders?


Windows 8 does not require 3rd party USB drivers. You should however configure USB Boost 3.0 in the ASUS Ai Suite II. Greatly improved USB 3.0 speeds over what windows can do. And yes, you simply run the ASUSsetup exe in the root. It will select the proper driver.

This is for all Sabertooth Z77 owners. After you install Ai Suite II go to the link below and install the updated Ai Suite II. You will get things like Fan Xpert 2 and updated and more stable versions of the other Ai Suite utilities. It is awesome.
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_V_EXTREME/#support_Download_36
You can also install the LucidLogic VirtuMVP software from here as well as get the ROG theme for windows








Oh, and the ROG branded cpu-z software is available here too!

Let me know if you have any other questions!


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Install the chipset driver
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36 under LAN
> Windows 8 does not require 3rd party USB drivers. You should however configure USB Boost 3.0 in the ASUS Ai Suite II. Greatly improved USB 3.0 speeds over what windows can do. And yes, you simply run the ASUSsetup exe in the root. It will select the proper driver.
> 
> This is for all Sabertooth Z77 owners. After you install Ai Suite II go to the link below and install the updated Ai Suite II. You will get things like Fan Xpert 2 and updated and more stable versions of the other Ai Suite utilities. It is awesome.
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_V_EXTREME/#support_Download_36
> You can also install the LucidLogic VirtuMVP software from here as well as get the ROG theme for windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the ROG branded cpu-z software is available here too!
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions!


Nice thanks for the reply!









However I'm still not sure what you mean by "NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection" under LAN. Did you mean download the driver below it(17.2.0.0) then install the latest driver(17.3.0.0)?

If you aren't too busy could you maybe make a numbered list of what drivers to install by order? I know Chipset is the first but what about SATA, VGA, Audio, LAN(Ill be using a usb thumbdrive to transfer them and be using a wireless adapter) I also will be using the igpu(HD 4000) until I have enough for a 670 or 7970.

Also you mentioned after installing Ai suite II to install the updated version from the Maximus V extreme, could I just skip one step and just install Ai suite II from that link?

EDIT
Sorry for being overly cautious. I just read too many stories about people bricking their hardware through drivers or a bios corruption. Im glad everyone here has been helpful tho







I havent been able to get much help from any where else(ex Tomshardware)
EDIT
no slight on toms tho just the stock answers weren't helping me much


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Thanks! Picked up the 1600 / 11-11-11-28. How did you determine your timings and what voltages are you running them at?


Basically trial and error...
BTW those settings are at 1.58v


----------



## PhantomTaco

Thought I'd post some photos of my Sabertooth now that everything is done:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










God I love this board. If only it wasn't so hard to screw it into the mobo lol.


----------



## MKHunt

Are SLi titans really okay on an 850W PSU?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Are SLi titans really okay on an 850W PSU?


At maximum possible power on the Titan you get 300W (that's with a custom bios and liquid cooling even then I'm not sure). So 600W max, but at stock I'm at 285W so 570W, and then processor is like 100W and everything else wouldn't add up to 50W. (these are approx guesstimates, I did my work before and asked around to be sure)


----------



## NitrousX

So I uninstalled the Asus AI Suite completely but there are still three services that auto start everytime I log into Window. Can't I just disable them?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> So I uninstalled the Asus AI Suite completely but there are still three services that auto start everytime I log into Window. Can't I just disable them?


Do it through task scheduler.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Do it through task scheduler.


Isn't that the same thing as services.msc?

Also I'm seeing an Asus folder inside my program files. Couldn't I delete that as well?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Isn't that the same thing as services.msc?
> 
> Also I'm seeing an Asus folder inside my program files. Couldn't I delete that as well?


No

You need to do it through task scheduler, any other way is just inviting disaster.

Start from here


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> No
> 
> You need to do it through task scheduler, any other way is just inviting disaster.
> 
> Start from here


Thanks!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

You experienced that too huh?
Yeah disappointing and annoying that Asus leaves behind services that slow down your boot time...


----------



## jjkusaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Are SLi titans really okay on an 850W PSU?


Appears to be adequate according to guru3d.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_titan_3_way_sli_review,4.html

"GeForce GTX Titan 2x SLI - On your average system the cards require you to have a 800 Watt power supply unit as minimum."


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> However I'm still not sure what you mean by "NVM Update Utility for Intel 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY Network Connection" under LAN. Did you mean download the driver below it(17.2.0.0) then install the latest driver(17.3.0.0)?


Order of install is actually the order in which they are listed on the ASUS site.

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1805
Intel Chipset Driver V9.3.0.1021
Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.6699
Intel(R) Graphics Accelerator Driver V9.17.10.2828
***install http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22026 (only required for windows 8 systems updating LAN drivers)
Intel LAN Driver V17.3.0.0
Lucid Virtu Universal MVP Software V2.1.221.24927
ASUS AI Suite II V2.01.01 (from Sabertooth Z77 support site first)
ASUS AI Suite II V2.01.01 (from Maximus V Extreme support site)
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_V_EXTREME/#support_Download_36
*** You will get updated utilities, Turbo V Evo, Fan Xpert 2, and other utilities with more features unlocked, but still maintain AI Suite knowing you have a Sabertooth Z77 board and you still get Thermal Radar. Fan Xpert 2 is a bit easier to use than Thermal Radar, but it is nice to have both.
OPTIONAL: ASUS ROG Theme V1.00.18 (Maximus V Extreme downloads page under utilities)
OPTIONAL: Thermal Radar V1.01.29 (upgrade from V1.01.27 which is installed with AI Suite)
Intel Rapid Storage Driver
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=22194&ProdId=2101&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%208*&DownloadType=Drivers
(download the iata_enu.exe all in one installer)
Intel Smart Connect Driver and utilitiy
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=20866&ProdId=3470&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%208*&DownloadType=Software%20Applications

You should be good to go then.


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Order of install is actually the order in which they are listed on the ASUS site.
> 
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36
> 
> SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1805
> Intel Chipset Driver V9.3.0.1021
> Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.6699
> Intel(R) Graphics Accelerator Driver V9.17.10.2828
> ***install http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?DwnldID=22026 (only required for windows 8 systems updating LAN drivers)
> Intel LAN Driver V17.3.0.0
> Lucid Virtu Universal MVP Software V2.1.221.24927
> ASUS AI Suite II V2.01.01 (from Sabertooth Z77 support site first)
> ASUS AI Suite II V2.01.01 (from Maximus V Extreme support site)
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_V_EXTREME/#support_Download_36
> *** You will get updated utilities, Turbo V Evo, Fan Xpert 2, and other utilities with more features unlocked, but still maintain AI Suite knowing you have a Sabertooth Z77 board and you still get Thermal Radar. Fan Xpert 2 is a bit easier to use than Thermal Radar, but it is nice to have both.
> OPTIONAL: ASUS ROG Theme V1.00.18 (Maximus V Extreme downloads page under utilities)
> OPTIONAL: Thermal Radar V1.01.29 (upgrade from V1.01.27 which is installed with AI Suite)
> Intel Rapid Storage Driver
> http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=22194&ProdId=2101&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%208*&DownloadType=Drivers
> (download the iata_enu.exe all in one installer)
> Intel Smart Connect Driver and utilitiy
> http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=20866&ProdId=3470&lang=eng&OSVersion=Windows%208*&DownloadType=Software%20Applications
> 
> You should be good to go then.


Awesome that is just about everything! I can't thank you enough really as drivers are a headache!

repped

EDIT
thanks for the tips on utilities and theme!


----------



## billythekid2012

I have a quotation about z77 bios
I been running 1805 sense it was posted on the asus site
and I been having problem with my board like it will not keep the overclock it will keep all my setting but drop the cpu speed back to 3.9
or it would overclock it self from stock to 4.2 for no reason

Well I flashed back 1304 a few days ago and my system run much better and I have no problem with the bios

so are the newer bios updates more for windows 8


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You experienced that too huh?
> Yeah disappointing and annoying that Asus leaves behind services that slow down your boot time...


What baffles me is that I totally uninstalled the Asus Suite from the control panel and the folder in program files (where all the service exes are located at) is still there.

I followed grunions steps above to disable the services from automatically starting and all is well now.


----------



## 9Thermal9

Why am I unable to get into my BIOS. I tried F1; F7 and delete. I get an unusually long black screen then the OS fires up.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *9Thermal9*
> 
> Why am I unable to get into my BIOS. I tried F1; F7 and delete. I get an unusually long black screen then the OS fires up.


Download ASUS Boot Setting from Asus support. That allows you to restart to bios. Other then that I don't know how to help you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah I got so pissed off at ai suite, that I reinstlled Windows as I didn't want any asus crap on my PC.
I actually think there should be a law against this. I'll check their TOS and if I can't find anything about services being left on your pc, asus Will be getting a very kind law written letter to them. It's unacceptable for software to do that, unless it's malicious, where it can't be controlled.
Oh asus, piss me off once, piss me off a second time. Check. Now my turn.


----------



## 9Thermal9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Download ASUS Boot Setting from Asus support. That allows you to restart to bios. Other then that I don't know how to help you.


That worked, thank you. (Don't know why my delete key stopped working.)


----------



## LuckyNumber13

i swapped out the chipset heatsink
and airbrushed the thermail armor.
just have to clear coat then wet sand then
clear coat again then it's time to put on.
also painted the fan for the thermal armor
and the slot dust covers.





where the piece of tape is on the thermal armor is now white.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> i swapped out the chipset heatsink
> and airbrushed the thermail armor.
> just have to clear coat then wet sand then
> clear coat again then it's time to put on.
> also painted the fan for the thermal armor
> and the slot dust covers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where the piece of tape is on the thermal armor is now white.


Looks cool


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That blue armor looks very sexy!


----------



## RedFive

Want to get an opinion of fellow z77 owners. My rig is posted a few pages back, and I am on the fence on what to do gfx wise. I currently have a 680 4gb and it can play things like metro skyrim and bf3, but I feel like the frame rates aren't As smooth as I want. I'm playing at 2560x1600 everything maxed. My choices are a second 680, a 690, or a Titan, if I can even get my hands on one of those. From what I've seen in some reviews and benchmarks. The Titan does not beat 690, but does have more consistent frames. I think maybe that's what I am experiencing with the single 680. Frames are there but during gameplay and moving around the frames jump around. I'll make some fraps tests to give some more detail to make sense of it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

What's your monitor? 120hz?
By not smooth, what are you alluding to? I think vsync sounds like the answer. And if you really want another card, maybe a lower end card would suffice to give you that extra juice.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> Want to get an opinion of fellow z77 owners. My rig is posted a few pages back, and I am on the fence on what to do gfx wise. I currently have a 680 4gb and it can play things like metro skyrim and bf3, but I feel like the frame rates aren't As smooth as I want. I'm playing at 2560x1600 everything maxed. My choices are a second 680, a 690, or a Titan, if I can even get my hands on one of those. From what I've seen in some reviews and benchmarks. The Titan does not beat 690, but does have more consistent frames. I think maybe that's what I am experiencing with the single 680. Frames are there but during gameplay and moving around the frames jump around. I'll make some fraps tests to give some more detail to make sense of it.


i would get a second 680 then when the 780 series comes out
in June (possibly) sell the 2 680's for a 780 when the 780 starts
to fall in price a little (a few months after initial release).
although i'm facing sort of same problem..only thing left
to get in my current build is my GPU and block for it.
was going to get Titan but as you know (and pointed out)
the 690 is better all in all..When you know what your going to get - post








what monitor you have?
i was looking into getting the
30" Inch Yamakasi 300 Sparta Multi HDMI 1.4a 2560x1600 S-IPS Monitor


----------



## RedFive

I have a dell ips 30 inch. 60hz. And like I said I havnt done fraps checks but just from a feel perspective, Gameplay doesn't seem smooth. If I lower resolution or turn off some AA the smooth feel is there, probably maxing the 60 frames on the monitor.
It's not screen tearing I'm seeing. I do have vsync on, it's most noticeable to me in metro 2033.

I'll do a check on fraps on metro and see what I'm getting.

My CPU is overclocked to 4.5 and the gpu is still stock. I might look into some overclocking on that and see if I get some improvement.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Turn on adaptive vsync, doesn't seem like you need another gfx. That would be overkill, and your monitor is your bottleneck


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hehe when I get back from my holiday. I'm filling a claim against Asus.
Leaving services running, in the background, after the software has been uninstalled is against the law. Competition and consumer


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hehe when I get back from my holiday. I'm filling a claim against Asus.
> Leaving services running, in the background, after the software has been uninstalled is against the law. Competition and consumer


if you do can you share the wealth?


----------



## RedFive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Turn on adaptive vsync, doesn't seem like you need another gfx. That would be overkill, and your monitor is your bottleneck


ok im now home and discovered that metro 2033 has a benchmark run, who knew!?









so im running it now and ya my not so smooth gameplay is because of an average FPS of 16 with a max of 33.

im running the benchmark at
DX11, 2560x1600 Quality Very High, MSAA 4X, AF 16X, enable advanced PhysX enable, DX11 option DOF enable. the default frontline scene. doing 3 runs.

these are the same options i have enabled when i play. so i guess the question now becomes is it even possible to max 60fps on this game with these settings?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Put adaptive vsync for starters...


----------



## RedFive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Put adaptive vsync for starters...


I did, those numbers are with adaptive vsync on.

from what i understand adaptive vsync turns vsync on if i go over 60fps, which im not even coming close to.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Well not exactly. It also boosts your fps if vsync is activated. In other words, it shouldn't drop under 30fps.
That's very odd for a card like that...even my 660ti doesn't drop to 16fps. And that's on ultra on bf3 or on borderlands 2. Lowest I've seen mine is at 35. I'm running on a 1080p display though


----------



## RedFive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well not exactly. It also boosts your fps if vsync is activated. In other words, it shouldn't drop under 30fps.
> That's very odd for a card like that...even my 660ti doesn't drop to 16fps. And that's on ultra on bf3 or on borderlands 2. Lowest I've seen mine is at 35. I'm running on a 1080p display though


well i just ran a bit of BF3 campaign with everything maxed and my benchmark on fraps put me at average 49, 23 min and 63 max, this is still adaptive vsync enabled and all settings maxed. the gameplay was pretty smooth, i wonder if the metro engine is just that different and demanding.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That seems ok...but not great for a 680- your card should be always at 60fps in that respect. I'm maybe thinking pcie speeds?
Try running heaven benchmark and seeing what you get. Check my thread I created on queuing about ocing the 660ti - never did in the end. Mine runs on stock, fps is high. I can hit over 120fps with vsync off on single player bf3


----------



## AerieAngel

For everyone that complains about stuff left over after an uninstall... Welcome to windows and more specifically the idea an OS needs a registry. Use a third party uninstaller. They've been around for a long time. Revo is great.
http://www.revouninstaller.com/

Furthermore:
Any chance to pooply criticize though you all seem to be taking it nowadays. It gets really old in this forum. Help people or get out. This is trolling behavior now and only a means to try to get attention. A reply to this would be the same. You know what you all are doing. Everyone knows what you all are doing. If you care about overclock.net (as I assume you do as most trolls are deeply fond of the place they are actually trolling) then please stop.

Every time some one comes in here with a problem or concern should not be an opportunity to continually day after day express your dislike with so much malice. I have a tough time saying this nicely. It shouldn't have to be said at all.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> Want to get an opinion of fellow z77 owners. My rig is posted a few pages back, and I am on the fence on what to do gfx wise. I currently have a 680 4gb and it can play things like metro skyrim and bf3, but I feel like the frame rates aren't As smooth as I want. I'm playing at 2560x1600 everything maxed. My choices are a second 680, a 690, or a Titan, if I can even get my hands on one of those. From what I've seen in some reviews and benchmarks. The Titan does not beat 690, but does have more consistent frames. I think maybe that's what I am experiencing with the single 680. Frames are there but during gameplay and moving around the frames jump around. I'll make some fraps tests to give some more detail to make sense of it.


No way should you get a 690. Shared memory and the high possibility of micro stutter is not worth it compared to what you have now.
It is unlikely that you will see an improvement over what you currently are doing at that resolution without lowering quality.
2560x1600 is difficult and you will not be able to run ultra high settings in Crysis 3 or Metro 2033 unless you go SLI or the Titan.
7.1 billion transistors and 2600 CUDA cores is hard to pass up on the Titan.
For Metro 2033 on a 680 at that resolution you are lucky to get 30fps with settings of "very high, 4xMSAA, 16xAF." A Titan would give you approximately 50fps. An Ares II would yield 70fps.

Ok so what does this all mean? If you are sticking with 1 monitor you are better off going SLI. If you are eventually going to add more monitors then the Titan is the way to go.
Two 660ti cards in SLI will beat by sometimes 2x more fps than a single 680 at that resolution like in Far Cry 3. That in itself says something about high resolution single monitor SLI.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> well i just ran a bit of BF3 campaign with everything maxed and my benchmark on fraps put me at average 49, 23 min and 63 max, this is still adaptive vsync enabled and all settings maxed. the gameplay was pretty smooth, i wonder if the metro engine is just that different and demanding.


Metro engine is a weird creature, it's hard on any system. As for your debacle with the 680 4gb and 690/titan I think I can give you some input. I game at 2560 x 1440 with a 120hz monitor. I had a 690 before and it ran fantastically with current games (less TR and Crysis 3 because I didn't test those while I had it). BF3 averaged around 80ish fps and VRAM was fine even when using Skyrim with over 40 mods (mostly HD textures too).

THAT SAID, in terms of looking forward I would probably suggest you either get another 680 4gb to SLI or a Titan over the 690. It's not that the 690 is a bad card, it's actually fantastic. But looking forward with games like Crysis 3 and FC3 I can see VRAM becoming a bigger issue going forward, especially at this resolution.

In the end buying a 680 4GB will give your system more performance than a single titan and for cheaper. The "microstutter" issue is negligible on both the 680 sli and the 690, and that I can say from experience. Frame timing also isn't something to worry about with either solution, so it's really your call.


----------



## whoc

Wanna know if it is common to experience the same problems as I do in my new PC build using Asus Sabertooth Z77. Anyone using both iGPU and a discrete display card can start/install windows 8 without any problem?

The problem is as soon as I enter the personalize screen during windows 8 installation, my screen turns black. There appears to be some iGPU bios crush with Windows 8. I did some googling and found there are some others experiencing the same problems out there:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039708701

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=371758

http://tech-blog-solutions.com/2012/12/windows-8-black-screen-personalization/

My PC spec: 3770K, Sabertooth Z77, Inno3D 660Ti


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> ok im now home and discovered that metro 2033 has a benchmark run, who knew!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so im running it now and ya my not so smooth gameplay is because of an average FPS of 16 with a max of 33.
> 
> im running the benchmark at
> DX11, 2560x1600 Quality Very High, MSAA 4X, AF 16X, enable advanced PhysX enable, DX11 option DOF enable. the default frontline scene. doing 3 runs.
> 
> these are the same options i have enabled when i play. so i guess the question now becomes is it even possible to max 60fps on this game with these settings?


Yeah your resolution is large. If you want to max everything out another 680 would be your best bet. Titan is over priced IMO. If you got dough to blow though. Two 680s will usually beat a 690. Plus you would lose that extra VRAM you need for high res AA.

As taco said metro is hard on most systems. You can always knock down the AA a bit. I have seen at that res you don't need as much AA as 1080.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> ok im now home and discovered that metro 2033 has a benchmark run, who knew!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so im running it now and ya my not so smooth gameplay is because of an average FPS of 16 with a max of 33.
> 
> im running the benchmark at
> DX11, 2560x1600 Quality Very High, MSAA 4X, AF 16X, enable advanced PhysX enable, DX11 option DOF enable. the default frontline scene. doing 3 runs.
> 
> these are the same options i have enabled when i play. so i guess the question now becomes is it even possible to max 60fps on this game with these settings?


MSAA and Metro are really tough on cards.

A Single 680 will not drive that resolution with those settings.

If I were you, and had the money, I'd consider an SLI setup and perhaps a 120hz monitor.

As mentioned, 2 660ti's would outperform a single 680 and probably handle that resolution and settings better.


----------



## RedFive

120hz monitors all max at 1080p don't they? I imagine by that alone my performance would improve at the expense of the 2560x1600 display. I can already drop the resolution and get capped frame rates. I basically want to max out the res and quality on anything I play and get consistent frame rates between 45-60 I'll look into a second 680.

Thans everyone for the input.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedFive*
> 
> 120hz monitors all max at 1080p don't they? I imagine by that alone my performance would improve at the expense of the 2560x1600 display. I can already drop the resolution and get capped frame rates. I basically want to max out the res and quality on anything I play and get consistent frame rates between 45-60 I'll look into a second 680.
> 
> Thans everyone for the input.


There are 2560x1440 120hz monitors: Yamakasi Catleap 2B and the Overlord, neither of which are in stock currently (120hz.net and overlordcomputers)


----------



## billythekid2012

Does anyone have a broken down z77 sabertooth that asus would not rma

I broke part of the locking tab on one of the PCI-E slots and I thing it just snaps in if I can get a hold of one


----------



## dngklnt

Add me to the club!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dngklnt*
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to the club!


very cool dude BUT if it was me i would change those black tie clips to red ones.which cpu cooler you using can't make it out?


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> very cool dude BUT if it was me i would change those black tie clips to red ones.which cpu cooler you using can't make it out?


H100i, same as me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Apparently I should refrain from calling people fanboy and/or is offensive to some members.
Thanks OCN...









See ya "club"
I will be filling a claim against Asus, weather some people like it or not


----------



## Totally Dubbed

And the famous 2x post you can't get rid of.


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know if the Bios Update 1805 is worth putting in.Just got a sabertooth today installed and the bios ver shows 1504.What do you think..


----------



## wsnnwa

Might try to lower the voltage once I have more free time.


----------



## Mdkozon

Hey all, got a few questions.

I am wondering if its ok to use stock fan to hit 4.0 ghz on i7 3770k and what settings I would need to change in my bios

Also need advice on how to OC my ram. Any help would be appreciated thanks!

List of products below! to make it easier thanks









Ps I updated bios to newest version.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mdkozon*
> 
> Hey all, got a few questions.
> 
> I am wondering if its *ok to use stock fan to hit 4.0 ghz on i7 3770k* and what settings I would need to change in my bios
> 
> Also need advice on how to OC my ram. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
> 
> List of products below! to make it easier thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ps I updated bios to newest version.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116501
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821


*NO.*


----------



## Mdkozon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> *NO.*


Ok , since we got that out of the way lets move on









What about ram setting suggestions, and bios settings >_>

thanks for the quick reply's


----------



## MKHunt

ram is pretty much anything over 1333 and you're golden. 1600mhz cl 9 is a good set. Try and make the ram run 1t if you can. other than that.... the defaults are pretty good. oh and feel free to turn off your unused ports in the bios.

ETA: SO... MOSFET water cooling. It looks like the Maximus 5 mosfet water block would fit our mosfets. Since the VRMs run a bit hot on this board, I am tempted to find out. Anybody already tried this?


----------



## bunja

Hey all, new to the Sabertooth Z77 board,
Freshly installed in HAF XM,

Quick question for you all, I have a Gainward gtx 580 Phantom 3gb card and the heatpipes on the back are touching the armor, I havent seen any problems yet and the temps are 35 c gpu, pci-e-1 31 c, mb 33c, cpu 31c thats at idle. gpu goes 65-70 c on load depending on ambient.

Was wondering anyone else has this card and did you or is it something to worry about?

Thnx all.


----------



## VGANoWork

Hey guys, I think I messed up my graphics options...

Could you please guide me to changing the "Initate Graphic Adapter" setting in "Advanced > System Agent Configuration", only using the keyboard?
I can't use the mouse because my screen doesn't show anything...
Resetting CMOS, didn't do anything. And I know I can get into the BIOS, because I can use the "F10: Save and reset" function.
Unfortunately, using F5 didn't work either, this is the last thing I'm going to try before going nuts.
It would be awesome if you could just list the keystrokes.








Thanks guys!


----------



## MjKll

How do you disable the igpu on this mobo? I haven't got a graphics card yet but I would like to know what to do when I do get it. I see no options for this in the bios anywhere and I have read people having trouble having their boards boot up and display their card but not their igpu. Also isn't there a way to disable/enable this in windows(8 specifically)? And is updating to bios 1805 worth it? I wonder if the newer bios updates have anything to do with windows 8 stability or something I might need. I'm currently on 1504, the way it arrived but its fine so maybe I will just leave it alone for now.


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> ETA: SO... MOSFET water cooling. It looks like the Maximus 5 mosfet water block would fit our mosfets. Since the VRMs run a bit hot on this board, I am tempted to find out. Anybody already tried this?


At 12:55 in this video JJ takes the waterblock off of the Maximus V Formula and shows what is underneath. Probably the best video that you'll see in order to find out if it fits the Sabertooth Z77.


----------



## chillidog

restart pc enter the bios use the key's shown in picture to Navigate around and using enter or delete or save as needed

as to what you mean by I can't use the mouse because my screen doesn't show anything am abit puzzled even if you haven't got any graphic card or on board graphics enabled you should see your bios screen?
if you mean you can't see your mouse Cursor on screen try swapping usb ports if no good try a ps/2 mouse in the ps/2 port

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VGANoWork*
> 
> Hey guys, I think I messed up my graphics options...
> 
> Could you please guide me to changing the "Initate Graphic Adapter" setting in "Advanced > System Agent Configuration", only using the keyboard?
> I can't use the mouse because my screen doesn't show anything...
> Resetting CMOS, didn't do anything. And I know I can get into the BIOS, because I can use the "F10: Save and reset" function.
> Unfortunately, using F5 didn't work either, this is the last thing I'm going to try before going nuts.
> It would be awesome if you could just list the keystrokes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks guys!


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> How do you disable the igpu on this mobo? I haven't got a graphics card yet but I would like to know what to do when I do get it. I see no options for this in the bios anywhere and I have read people having trouble having their boards boot up and display their card but not their igpu. Also isn't there a way to disable/enable this in windows(8 specifically)? And is updating to bios 1805 worth it? I wonder if the newer bios updates have anything to do with windows 8 stability or something I might need. I'm currently on 1504, the way it arrived but its fine so maybe I will just leave it alone for now.


enter bios if i can remember it's in advance somewhere ( just look around you will come across the igpu and then disable it then save and reboot


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> At 12:55 in this video JJ takes the waterblock off of the Maximus V Formula and shows what is underneath. Probably the best video that you'll see in order to find out if it fits the Sabertooth Z77.


The maximus has the same phases and the same output caps and the same pwm components. the only part that risks the fitment is the upper left corner hole spacing.


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> enter bios if i can remember it's in advance somewhere ( just look around you will come across the igpu and then disable it then save and reboot


ah yes I think I found it in System Agent Configuration in the graphics option. I can enable or disable pcie or igpu. thanks again chillidog. good advice with the psu before. never thought it was faulty but now my new one is working great! Everyones been helpful here so far


----------



## VGANoWork

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> 
> restart pc enter the bios use the key's shown in picture to Navigate around and using enter or delete or save as needed
> 
> as to what you mean by I can't use the mouse because my screen doesn't show anything am abit puzzled even if you haven't got any graphic card or on board graphics enabled you should see your bios screen?
> if you mean you can't see your mouse Cursor on screen try swapping usb ports if no good try a ps/2 mouse in the ps/2 port


My problem is the VGA LED comes on, and my display stays black.
That's why I need someone to guide me through the key presses, I could do by my self if the screen worked!


----------



## 5e7en

Hi all, new member - had my S/tooth z77 for a little while, always good to see how others are going with their z77 builds
















Oh, was also wondering if others are having hassles with latest bios, 1805 - some settings don't stick without a hard reset(CMOS) for instance, once H/T is configured, on or off, it would stay that way regardless of the bios setting. Only a hard reset allows a change - then the same again..


----------



## navit

Yep, a known problem with this bios. I am running the one before 1805 and have avoided this one all together.


----------



## vapor matt

Which is the best bios for this board as 1805 has issues in locking things until a CMOS reset! before you can ajust them again.

thanks in advance


----------



## vapor matt

I flashed back to the bios 1708 and everything is working as it should be now, hopefully a new bios will cure 1805 bios issues!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VGANoWork*
> 
> My problem is the VGA LED comes on, and my display stays black.
> That's why I need someone to guide me through the key presses, I could do by my self if the screen worked!


If this is happening, I highly doubt your machine is posting. If you remove your videocard, the board should automatically default to igpu or onboard video. If after having no video card installed and you still can't get onboard video to work, try resetting the bios. If that doesn't work, my guess is your cpu or mobo is bad.


----------



## VGANoWork

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> If this is happening, I highly doubt your machine is posting. If you remove your videocard, the board should automatically default to igpu or onboard video. If after having no video card installed and you still can't get onboard video to work, try resetting the bios. If that doesn't work, my guess is your cpu or mobo is bad.


I know it does go into bios because I can use "F10 ; Enter" to reset the board.
All I'm asking is the directions, if someone could just give me that, I'd be more than grateful.
I'm asking for the directions because I'm pretty sure I know what's happening, so just giving them to me would be more helpful than anything else.








And by directions, I mean the keystrokes (no mouse because the screen is black!) to change the GPU setting.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VGANoWork*
> 
> I know it does go into bios because I can use "F10 ; Enter" to reset the board.
> All I'm asking is the directions, if someone could just give me that, I'd be more than grateful.
> I'm asking for the directions because I'm pretty sure I know what's happening, so just giving them to me would be more helpful than anything else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And by directions, I mean the keystrokes (no mouse because the screen is black!) to change the GPU setting.


F10 and enter shouldn't have any effect for the bios. It could be resetting because it's not working properly.

I don't know how you expect people to give you keystroke instructions when the bios is by default...uefi basic mode. Why won't you try what I suggested above? It is certainly easier.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Alright, all items are in, including the last but not least Z77 Sabertooth. Below is a picture and list of the items upon delivery. I'll post pictures of the items assembled once I'm done, probably this weekend....let the build begin!!



ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77

Intel Core i7-3770K

SAPPHIRE 100354XTL Radeon HD 7870 XT w/Boost 2GB (Tahiti core, not Pitcarin -a second one of these will be added after the system is up and stable.)

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 2133

ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST

Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe 240GB SATA III (SSD)

CORSAIR HX Series HX750

Antec Eleven Hundred

XSPC RX240 Dual 120mm Radiator

2x NZXT FZ 120mm x 25mm LED Airflow Fan Series - Blue LED (front intake)

2x Antec TriCool 120 x 25mm Chassis Fan (left side intake)

Antec included rear case fan moved to right side intake

Cooler Master SickleFlow 120x25mm Super Silent Fan - Blue LED (rear exhaust)

Antec included top case fan 200mm (top exhaust)

2x Yate Loon 120mm x 20mm Slim Fan - Medium Speed (radiator fans)

EK Radeon 7870 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block w/ backplate

Swiftech Apogee Drive II Pump & CPU Waterblock (uses MCP35x pump)

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir w/ Blue LED

Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fittings

PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4"


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Alright, all items are in, including the last but not least Z77 Sabertooth. Below is a picture and list of the items upon delivery. I'll post pictures of the items assembled once I'm done, probably this weekend....let the build begin!!
> 
> Cooler Master SickleFlow 120x25mm Super Silent Fan - Blue LED (rear exhaust)
> 
> "


Sounds good.

FYI, Sickleflows are not as silent as they claim.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Sounds good.
> 
> FYI, Sickleflows are not as silent as they claim.


So not "Super silent" but just "silent"?


----------



## tw1st

Hey guys, probably silly but here it goes... maybe someone can help? This might not even be directly related to the mobo...just a shot in the dark here.

Whenever I boot my PC or come out of sleep mode, my internet access take about 15-20 seconds to come on. I'm plugged in directly through ethernet cable and I see "network access" icon in my notification area, it will show the red x, then eventually the yellow circle for connecting, and then finally I am online.

Does this have anything to do with network stack in BIOS settings? Nothing major, just would be nice to get online with my browser as soon as I boot into windows.


----------



## MjKll

What's everyone's opinion on bios 1805 now that it's been out a while? For some reason it seemed to ignore my igpu and search for a video card as the screen was blank. I'm using hdmi btw. I do plan on getting a graphics card soon. Anyway, I reverted back to 1504(the bios it came with) and it seems fine. Should I at least try out 1616 or 1708?

EDIT
I updated to 1708 and it's just fine with the temporary display setup I have(igpu to hdmi to tv). I've read people having issues with 1805(then again some people will have a problem with some bios regardless) when it comes to display/gpu/igpu/pcie detection. Do you think it would be a problem when I eventually get the graphics card? I mean, it should detect the pci-e automatically on boot up(i've checked bios and it's set to auto detect in System Agent Config options) Has anyone had issues with this particular version?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Alright, all items are in, including the last but not least Z77 Sabertooth. Below is a picture and list of the items upon delivery. I'll post pictures of the items assembled once I'm done, probably this weekend....let the build begin!!
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77
> 
> Intel Core i7-3770K
> 
> SAPPHIRE 100354XTL Radeon HD 7870 XT w/Boost 2GB (Tahiti core, not Pitcarin -a second one of these will be added after the system is up and stable.)
> 
> G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3 2133
> 
> ASUS Black Blu-ray Burner SATA BW-12B1ST
> 
> Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe 240GB SATA III (SSD)
> 
> CORSAIR HX Series HX750
> 
> Antec Eleven Hundred
> 
> XSPC RX240 Dual 120mm Radiator
> 
> 2x NZXT FZ 120mm x 25mm LED Airflow Fan Series - Blue LED (front intake)
> 
> 2x Antec TriCool 120 x 25mm Chassis Fan (left side intake)
> 
> Antec included rear case fan moved to right side intake
> 
> Cooler Master SickleFlow 120x25mm Super Silent Fan - Blue LED (rear exhaust)
> 
> Antec included top case fan 200mm (top exhaust)
> 
> 2x Yate Loon 120mm x 20mm Slim Fan - Medium Speed (radiator fans)
> 
> EK Radeon 7870 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block w/ backplate
> 
> Swiftech Apogee Drive II Pump & CPU Waterblock (uses MCP35x pump)
> 
> XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir w/ Blue LED
> 
> Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fittings
> 
> PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4"


Are you sure that GPU waterblock will fit your card?

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


----------



## Christina594

no complaints from me so far... just built new rig on this board yesterday. Seems to be working great and looks sweet!


----------



## MjKll

Do I need Intel Smart Connect? It sounds like something for laptops. Also, since I will be using the igpu on my 3770k for now and plan on getting a graphics card soon, should I install Lucid Virtu Universal MVP? I've read it's still not stable but I wonder if anyone here can speak from experience if it's something worth keeping in mind or if I should install it regardless even if I stick to a single card. Ill probably be fine with a single 7970 or gtx 670/680 but I wonder how it compares to sli /crossfire

edit
just inform me if I should delete that last paragraph if it derails the thread too much

edit
nevermind, deleted paragraph anyway as its too off topic. more on topic with the thread, is it some myth that you should always update to the latest bios? 1708 has been solid(after updating from 1504 which was good too) but I hear 1805 has been problematic. what exactly has changed from 1708 to 1805? there should be a changelog


----------



## AerieAngel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Do I need Intel Smart Connect? It sounds like something for laptops. Also, since I will be using the igpu on my 3770k for now and plan on getting a graphics card soon, should I install Lucid Virtu Universal MVP? I've read it's still not stable but I wonder if anyone here can speak from experience if it's something worth keeping in mind or if I should install it regardless even if I stick to a single card. Ill probably be fine with a single 7970 or gtx 670/680 but I wonder how it compares to sli /crossfire.


You don't absolutely need the Smart Connect. LucidLogic VirtuMVP is actually quite helpful. I wouldn't worry about issues. You can always disable it in the system tray at any time.


----------



## bunja

What do you guys tend to use for iGpu drivers ones from the Asus site or generic Intel, I'm thinking of taking this Lucid Virtu MVP for a spin with MVP 2.0 trial so i have concerns about drivers for iGpu, also is there any need to change primary card in bios back to iGpu?
I have my gtx 580 connected through dvi to monitor and afaik virtu mvp can be connected either through discreete gpu or igpu.

Tnx for your thoughts.


----------



## lnfamous

Hey guys, recently used this motherboard in my new build. Everything seems to be going fine but occasionally I'm getting warnings pop up saying the motherboard is too hot (>60C) or that the VCore is 0.000v. I haven't noticed any instability at all, no freezes or crashes when playing games, so is this anything to worry about?


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Are you sure that GPU waterblock will fit your card?
> 
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist


No, there's no full card waterblock for this card yet, but I thought I could modify it to get it to work. It wouldn't be worth it for what I have to do, checked it last night. I'll have to think of another solution...either get just a block and cool the ram and mosfets with heatsinks passively, or swap out the card and waterblock for the 7950's of both instead. Any recommendations?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> No, there's no full card waterblock for this card yet, but I thought I could modify it to get it to work. It wouldn't be worth it for what I have to do, checked it last night. I'll have to think of another solution...either get just a block and cool the ram and mosfets with heatsinks passively, or swap out the card and waterblock for the 7950's of both instead. Any recommendations?


i would not modify any waterblock unless you really know what you doing and have the right equipment, rather play it safe.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> So not "Super silent" but just "silent"?


My sp120 quiets turned down with a fan controller are basically silent. Sickleflows are still noticeably louder than the sp120s as low speeds. They are an okay budget fan.

I'd highly recommend the corsair fans.

I don't know if you are going for silence. http://anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder This article was super handy for me. Rosewill Hyperboreas are nice too, but they are 4-pin







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lnfamous*
> 
> Hey guys, recently used this motherboard in my new build. Everything seems to be going fine but occasionally I'm getting warnings pop up saying the motherboard is too hot (>60C) or that the VCore is 0.000v. I haven't noticed any instability at all, no freezes or crashes when playing games, so is this anything to worry about?


Are you running multiple monitoring programs? Latest version of AI suite?


----------



## VGANoWork

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> F10 and enter shouldn't have any effect for the bios. It could be resetting because it's not working properly.
> 
> I don't know how you expect people to give you keystroke instructions when the bios is by default...uefi basic mode. Why won't you try what I suggested above? It is certainly easier.


Using the shortcuts (F3) it shouldn't be hard (they get you directly to the place you want to go in "Advanced Mode"). Also F7 goes into Advanced Mode.

I'll give you the full rundown of my situation. I don't have a graphics card, I use my i5-3570K's HD 4000. My build is still a WIP.
I think I changed the GPU setting to PCI by accident when looking at what was available. So I need to change it back.
A CMOS reset didn't do it (I used both the jumper and the battery tricks, no luck). I don't have any graphics card I could use just to get into the BIOS, so I can't do much.
I know I can get into the BIOS because as I said hitting F10 ("Save and Reset" shortcut) and then Return (to say "Yes" to the pop-up) makes the motherboard reset.

I did reseat my CPU... twice (no bent pins) and exchanged the PSU, but nothing did it.
So if you have any other ideas, I'll gladly listen, but I think changing the setting manually will be the best thing to do.
Also I have the stock 1805 BIOS, so I hear there are issues with saving, so I could flash 1708 in case that would help.

All the Fx keys I'm referring to might not be correct because I haven't gotten into the BIOS for 4 days, and could remember incorrectly.
I'm pretty sure about most of them though!
Thanks!


----------



## kizwan

I'm going to assume you already tried F5 (in BIOS) to load optimized default?!

Try this:-

Enter BIOS
Press F7 & *then press Enter* to enter Advanced Mode
Press right arrow key twice. It should go to Advanced tab
Press down arrow key three time & press Enter. This should enter the "System Agent Configuration" section
Press down arrow key one time & press Enter. This should enter the "Graphics Configuration" section
Press Enter because you're now at "Primary Display" setting. Assuming you previously set it to "PCIE" then press up arrow key two time & press Enter. This should select "Auto"
Pray first & press F10 to save & exit.
DO NOT move mouse while doing this. Try this at your own risk but I can't think any setting in the BIOS that you can accidentally change that can cause catastrophic problem. Anyway, standard T&C apply, "try at your own risk" basically to save my a$$ from any implication.


----------



## MjKll

Ok so I am having trouble with my internet connection after windows loads. I have too troubleshoot or wait for a while to connect(I can still see the networks) I am about 98 perecent sure it has to do with the Intel 82579V Gigabyte Ethernet PHY Network Connection before LAN update. Anyway I did try that before I installed the LAN drivers but it asked me to go to command prompt and execute "8257VSKUW64e" in command prompt with administrative privilages. But no matter how I type it and execute it, it tells me its not recognized as a internal/external command or operable program or batch file.

Can someone with windows 8 64bit help me please? It's not a so terrible but it's VERY annoying as my ssd boots up freaking fast but then I have this agonizing wait to connect(I can see this being stupidly long with Steam) . Anyway, I installed the LAN Driver anyway and predictably this happened. Any help is appreciated!

EDIT
It doesnt seem to be a problem now strangely. I'm not sure what happened but it connects much quicker.


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> You don't absolutely need the Smart Connect. LucidLogic VirtuMVP is actually quite helpful. I wouldn't worry about issues. You can always disable it in the system tray at any time.


thanks for the info again!


----------



## MjKll

Okay so now that the internet connection issue seems to have fixed itself, I have a new annoying problem. I installed windows and the drivers with only my 840 Pro connected. Now I have my WD Black 500gb hard drive connected and it isn't appearing in Computer. It only shows the ssd and my dvd drive but not the hdd. However when I go to Device Manager, it clearly shows the WD model and it says the latest drivers are installed. I am confused and this is an even bigger annoyance than the online connection issue before.

I really need this hdd showing so I can actually get to storing a few things. I desperately need assistance again


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Okay so now that the internet connection issue seems to have fixed itself, I have a new annoying problem. I installed windows and the drivers with only my 840 Pro connected. Now I have my WD Black 500gb hard drive connected and it isn't appearing in Computer. It only shows the ssd and my dvd drive but not the hdd. However when I go to Device Manager, it clearly shows the WD model and it says the latest drivers are installed. I am confused and this is an even bigger annoyance than the online connection issue before.
> 
> I really need this hdd showing so I can actually get to storing a few things. I desperately need assistance again


Open Disk Management and initialize the disk or give it a drive letter.


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Open Disk Management and initialize the disk or give it a drive letter.


Worked excellent!

But.....

The internet issue has popped up again(on my hp right now) This time it looks like it connects but it says "google can't find www. blah blah"
It shows google and searches but cant access them. And sometimes I have to manually connect to my network. I believe this all ties to the "Intel 82579V Gigabyte Ethernet PHY Network Connection NVM Update" IE won't work either. The problem is I don't know how to use the NVM Gigabyte update utility on the command prompt. I tried different variations and such but nada. Anyone with windows 8 on this board care to help please? I've done exactly as the readme file says but still says "not recognized as a internal/external command or operable program or batch file"


----------



## lnfamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are you running multiple monitoring programs? Latest version of AI suite?


Yeah I'm running the latest version of AI Suite although that is the only program I am using to monitor motherboard temps.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Worked excellent!
> 
> But.....
> 
> The internet issue has popped up again(on my hp right now) This time it looks like it connects but it says "google can't find www. blah blah"
> It shows google and searches but cant access them. And sometimes I have to manually connect to my network. I believe this all ties to the "Intel 82579V Gigabyte Ethernet PHY Network Connection NVM Update" IE won't work either. The problem is I don't know how to use the NVM Gigabyte update utility on the command prompt. I tried different variations and such but nada. Anyone with windows 8 on this board care to help please? I've done exactly as the readme file says but still says "not recognized as a internal/external command or operable program or batch file"


Should just put the Win64e folder on the root of your C drive.

run cmd as administrator search cmd right click and run as administrator

type: cd .. (hit enter)

type: cd .. (hit enter)

Then you should see C:\>_

type: cd Win64e (hit enter)

type: 82579VSKUW64e.exe -nosilent (hit enter)

That should do it. If it doesn't I'm not really sure. Please excuse my command line. I've never been too good with it.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> i would not modify any waterblock unless you really know what you doing and have the right equipment, rather play it safe.


Yup, agreed...I've modified blocks before, soldered new voltage regulators on a board, etc, but this was a little more than I wanted to try and handle. The block would have had to been highly modified to work. So in the end the 7870 XT is going back and being exchanged for a 7950 as is the waterblock for its equivalent...will delay the build, but oh well, don't want to just keep the 7870 XT on air or use a GPU cooler only.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> My sp120 quiets turned down with a fan controller are basically silent. Sickleflows are still noticeably louder than the sp120s as low speeds. They are an okay budget fan.
> 
> I'd highly recommend the corsair fans.
> 
> I don't know if you are going for silence. http://anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder This article was super handy for me. Rosewill Hyperboreas are nice too, but they are 4-pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Are you running multiple monitoring programs? Latest version of AI suite?


Yeah, I only have one at the back of the case, so we'll see how it goes. I want to keep a good positive pressure in the case, so I'll be running the 2 exhaust fans at a lower speed...5x intake fans, 2 exhaust, should be able to keep them all at lower speeds and still have good air flow. Those Corsair's are nice though. I looked at them when I was ordering for the build. I'm going to confess that I got the sickleflow more for the look of the fan through the side window while lit up *bows head in shame*

Anyone want to buy the waterblock and backplate while I'm thinking about it? It's brand new never used









Anyways, here are a few pics of the system with everything minus the graphics cards, tubing, and some aesthetic elements.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Yeah, I only have one at the back of the case, so we'll see how it goes. I want to keep a good positive pressure in the case, so I'll be running the 2 exhaust fans at a lower speed...5x intake fans, 2 exhaust, should be able to keep them all at lower speeds and still have good air flow. Those Corsair's are nice though. I looked at them when I was ordering for the build. I'm going to confess that I got the sickleflow more for the look of the fan through the side window while lit up *bows head in shame*


No shame needed.

Here are some options if you find that the sickleflow isn't satisfactory.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553012
or
http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-RF-FZ120-U1-FZ-120mm-Airflow-Cooling/dp/B007WR0EP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364504094&sr=8-1&keywords=nzxt+120mm+blue


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Should just put the Win64e folder on the root of your C drive.
> 
> run cmd as administrator search cmd right click and run as administrator
> 
> type: cd .. (hit enter)
> 
> type: cd .. (hit enter)
> 
> Then you should see C:\>_
> 
> type: cd Win64e (hit enter)
> 
> type: 82579VSKUW64e.exe -nosilent (hit enter)
> 
> That should do it. If it doesn't I'm not really sure. Please excuse my command line. I've never been too good with it.


It seemed to be loading the driver then said no update was needed. Anyway, same situation except it won't even load the google and it won't show Networks at all now(Still shows full connection bar). I wonder if I use an ethernet cable instead of wireless. This is getting worrisome. Should I try to reinstall the LAN driver again?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lnfamous*
> 
> Yeah I'm running the latest version of AI Suite although that is the only program I am using to monitor motherboard temps.


There are several posts in this thread about sensors being wacky or off. My ai suite would occasionally say my 3.3v was off. You could try another psu if you really wanted to, but you are most likely fine. If the board and surrounding components temps are normal most of the time, you shouldn't need to worry. You can also set them to ignore in the ai suite. (that way you don't get the pop ups)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> It seemed to be loading the driver then said no update was needed. Anyway, same situation except it won't even load the google and it won't show Networks at all now(Still shows full connection bar). I wonder if I use an ethernet cable instead of wireless. This is getting worrisome. Should I try to reinstall the LAN driver again?


Well that update should only be for the ethernet anyways. It has nothing to do with the Wireless. So if this is wireless related, that has to be the wifi card or the wireless settings themselves.









Perhaps you should power cycle your router and modem?


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> No shame needed.
> 
> Here are some options if you find that the sickleflow isn't satisfactory.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553012
> or
> http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-RF-FZ120-U1-FZ-120mm-Airflow-Cooling/dp/B007WR0EP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364504094&sr=8-1&keywords=nzxt+120mm+blue


The Cougar Dual-X is sexy, I might have to get one just cuz







As for the NZXT's, have 2 of those as my intake fans in the front. I have these in another build and I love them. I think through the front grill of this case they will create a nice blue effect.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> The Cougar Dual-X is sexy, I might have to get one just cuz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the NZXT's, have 2 of those as my intake fans in the front. I have these in another build and I love them. I think through the front grill of this case they will create a nice blue effect.


Are the NZXT's 3-pin fans or 4-pin?


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> There are several posts in this thread about sensors being wacky or off. My ai suite would occasionally say my 3.3v was off. You could try another psu if you really wanted to, but you are most likely fine. If the board and surrounding components temps are normal most of the time, you shouldn't need to worry. You can also set them to ignore in the ai suite. (that way you don't get the pop ups)
> Well that update should only be for the ethernet anyways. It has nothing to do with the Wireless. So if this is wireless related, that has to be the wifi card or the wireless settings themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps you should power cycle your router and modem?


Well after restarting the computer the networks are showing again but still not connecting after a restart. Ill try what you said or use an ethernet cable. Should I have the wireless driver in the Sabertooth Z77 support site? It's still in beta and there's only one. It's strange though as the adapter was working before. I will just experiment a bit


----------



## [email protected]

Ok does anyone here have ASUS set up error when booting into windows?

This is the error i get and would like advice how to get rid of it unless there is an error?

Appdata\local\Temp\204812.log niis lost something like that..

I did google it and got many different conclusions and rather ask here and see if anyone here had experienced this before and what is the proper fix?

Thanks.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Well after restarting the computer the networks are showing again but still not connecting after a restart. Ill try what you said or use an ethernet cable. Should I have the wireless driver in the Sabertooth Z77 support site? It's still in beta and there's only one. It's strange though as the adapter was working before. I will just experiment a bit


The saberooth z77 doesn't have a wireless adapter built in. Are you using a 3rd party adapter? Dlink, linksys? etc? Did you setup a static ip address by accident?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Ok does anyone here have ASUS set up error when booting into windows?
> 
> This is the error i get and would like advice how to get rid of it unless there is an error?
> 
> Appdata\local\Temp\204812.log niis lost something like that..
> 
> I did google it and got many different conclusions and rather ask here and see if anyone here had experienced this before and what is the proper fix?
> 
> Thanks.


Sounds like the old ai suite error. Download Autoruns from microsoft and double check your task scheduler items


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> The saberooth z77 doesn't have a wireless adapter built in. Are you using a 3rd party adapter? Dlink, linksys? etc? Did you setup a static ip address by accident?


I may have not followed up the thread but if you are having network problems the only thing i wanna know if you had installed those network drivers in the cd? Cuz that same thing happened to me when i first installed my set up. I couldn't get on the internet so i had to install drivers and now i could connect to the internet?

Unless i am wrong and completely miss something in between these posts. Are you using cable modem or wireless?

I hope you read the specs on the motherboard before making an purchase cuz i know some ppl make mistakes. Glad it doesn't have a wireless adapter. One good reason to disable bluetooth in services.msc lol.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> The saberooth z77 doesn't have a wireless adapter built in. Are you using a 3rd party adapter? Dlink, linksys? etc? Did you setup a static ip address by accident?
> Sounds like the old ai suite error. Download Autoruns from microsoft and double check your task scheduler items


From Microsoft? I thought you meant the CD?

Task scheduler? Hmm.. Can you explain a little more bit please cuz i'm sure you're talking about the cd? Sorry for the confusion though..


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> The saberooth z77 doesn't have a wireless adapter built in. Are you using a 3rd party adapter? Dlink, linksys? etc? Did you setup a static ip address by accident?
> Sounds like the old ai suite error. Download Autoruns from microsoft and double check your task scheduler items


It's a D-Link Range Booster, it works on my HP and it was working on my Sabertooth build a first. It actually shows google searches and load youtube(not videos though) and it shows the networks so it's working in some way still


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are the NZXT's 3-pin fans or 4-pin?


3 pin







...and they come with a long molex add on cable if you want to use that as well. What I've done with my fans is put them in groupings in the case on PWM splitters. So my front and side intake on one, and adjust them all at the same time, rear exhaust fans on another, and control them together, keeping the pump on the CPU header and the RAD fans seperate to be adjusted with load. So for these NZXT's, I've linked them together via molex (daisy chain) and used a splitter to attach the 3 pin connectors to the same header so they can be controlled together. The airflow on these is nice and they're pretty quiet even at full.


----------



## lnfamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> There are several posts in this thread about sensors being wacky or off. My ai suite would occasionally say my 3.3v was off. You could try another psu if you really wanted to, but you are most likely fine. If the board and surrounding components temps are normal most of the time, you shouldn't need to worry. You can also set them to ignore in the ai suite. (that way you don't get the pop ups)/quote]
> 
> Thanks for the reply Yeah I think as long everything remains stable I'm not going to worry about it.


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> The saberooth z77 doesn't have a wireless adapter built in. Are you using a 3rd party adapter? Dlink, linksys? etc? Did you setup a static ip address by accident?
> Sounds like the old ai suite error. Download Autoruns from microsoft and double check your task scheduler items


So I hooked the computer via ethernet cable and same thing still. After trouble shooting it says "the remote device or resource won't accept the connection"


----------



## MjKll

Not sure why it started acting up, internet was fine(took a while to connect) It's weird that it sees the adapter and the adapter sees the networks and says it is supposedly connected and I can kind of load the google page and searches until I run into a "Chrome can't connect to so an so". Neither cable or wireless are working and the wireless adapter works on my other pc. If it helps, I am on bios 1708 with Windows 8 64bit and I installed all the latest drivers minus AI II Suite and other optional stuff as I wanted to see how if functioned with just the essentials(VGA, Audio, Chipset, LAN, SATA rapid storage, Intel Gigabyte Ethernet update utility I think too)


----------



## MjKll

Well I just did a system restore and redownloaded the drivers(Gigabyte Ethernet first then LAN) and it works again(on my sabertooth buil now) That's so weird but I feel like this isn't finished and will haunt me later.

Update
Windows informed me that some drivers may need to be re-installed. It brought up a list and it was basically all the drivers(Chipset, Audio, Windows Updates etc) So I should be able to re-install them again without trouble? Or do I have to uninstall those drivers and then install again? Or does installing them overwrite previous drivers and not create duplicates which I know would lead to something bad with my luck.

Update
All is well for now. It actually said only Rapid Storage and few other things like my antivirus had to be reinstalled. So I did and everything seems to be fine for now.


----------



## VGANoWork

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm going to assume you already tried F5 (in BIOS) to load optimized default?!
> 
> Try this:-
> 
> Enter BIOS
> Press F7 to enter Advanced Mode
> Press right arrow key twice (?? don't know arrow key will work though). If work it should go to Advanced tab
> Press down arrow key three time & press Enter. This should enter the "System Agent Configuration" section
> Press down arrow key one time & press Enter. This should enter the "Graphics Configuration" section
> Press Enter because you're now at "Primary Display" setting. Assuming you previously set it to "PCIE" then press up arrow key two time & press Enter. This should select "Auto"
> Pray first & press F10 to save & exit.
> DO NOT move mouse while doing this. Try this at your own risk but I can't think any setting in the BIOS that you can accidentally change that can cause catastrophic problem. Anyway, standard T&C apply, "try at your own risk" basically to save my a$$ from any implication.


Thanks, but it didn't work.
Could you please use the shortcut function to get to the Advanced tab. There should be a shortcut for CPU Configuration, from which I could exit to get to the Advanced tab selection.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm going to assume you already tried F5 (in BIOS) to load optimized default?!
> 
> Try this:-
> 
> Enter BIOS
> Press F7 & *then press Enter* to enter Advanced Mode
> Press right arrow key twice. It should go to Advanced tab
> Press down arrow key three time & press Enter. This should enter the "System Agent Configuration" section
> Press down arrow key one time & press Enter. This should enter the "Graphics Configuration" section
> Press Enter because you're now at "Primary Display" setting. Assuming you previously set it to "PCIE" then press up arrow key two time & press Enter. This should select "Auto"
> Pray first & press F10 to save & exit.
> DO NOT move mouse while doing this. Try this at your own risk but I can't think any setting in the BIOS that you can accidentally change that can cause catastrophic problem. Anyway, standard T&C apply, "try at your own risk" basically to save my a$$ from any implication.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VGANoWork*
> 
> Thanks, but it didn't work.
> Could you please use the shortcut function to get to the Advanced tab. There should be a shortcut for CPU Configuration, from which I could exit to get to the Advanced tab selection.


Please try again. I don't have Sabertooth motherboard but different Asus motherboard. I derived the step above based on Sabertooth Z77 BIOS video on youtube. I found out after press F7, there is a dialog box appear which you only need to press Enter to proceed to Advanced Mode.


----------



## [email protected]

Remember you have your motherboard manual and youtube and this forum if you need help. Usually the manual motherboard would tell you why you cannot connect the internet.

I honestly think it's not your motherboard but your modem or whatever adapter you are using.

I recommend you talk to your ISP or replace it and try again. It's gotta be your network modem not the motherboard. If you installed drivers and it's still not detecting then it could be a bad Windows installation. I really recommend you not open any browsers and download things you need on your desktop or install another program. Don't download anything WHILE you are updating Windows. Just let it finish.

But dude the drivers usually would give you a fix. Maybe you encountered an windows Operating System corruption? Sometimes those things can happen. Or it could be your modem. since it's not detecting it. Did you use the driver installation from the CD that came with the motherboard or did you get it straight off the website of the motherboard brand you are using?

Anyways i wonder if anyone posted an answer to my question about the log error upon windows boot. I'll look back and see if anyone posted anything and oh yea good afternoon..


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> From Microsoft? I thought you meant the CD?
> 
> Task scheduler? Hmm.. Can you explain a little more bit please cuz i'm sure you're talking about the cd? Sorry for the confusion though..


This is the question. I really didn't understand him cuz he said to download the autoruns from Microsoft? Autoruns of what? Which is why i didn't get a clear answer here. Respectfully i just want clear instructions to complete this fix please.


----------



## MKHunt

Grrr. Getting the boot device not supported error when I try to disable CSM for fast boot. I know for a fact that Titan has UEFI GOP bios. What else could be throwing this error?


----------



## humayunh

Hey Guys!

I am making a new build
i5 3570K
Vengeance® - 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11B)
H100i

and earlier i was going with a http://www.gigabyte.pk/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4140#ov
Since i didn't see any point spending so much on a motherboard. But i was checking out the Z77 Sabertooth and damn it looks hot!
Now by spending a 100$+ more on this, what kind of improvements can i expect? I have a ASUS P5Q board with my C2D 2.53 @ 3.8Ghz so i really like ASUS boards. Even though i used to have a really high end SLI ASUS board for my old AMD X2 and that thing BSOD'ed like anything.

Also i have a Audigy 2 ZS which is a PCI card. Now the sabertooth has no PCI slots







so this will be useless. How does the Realtek on it compare to the ZS? I will be using Creative Inspire 7900 on it for 5.1 and Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro's on it for headphones from time to time.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> From Microsoft? I thought you meant the CD?
> 
> Task scheduler? Hmm.. Can you explain a little more bit please cuz i'm sure you're talking about the cd? Sorry for the confusion though..


I was referring to this program for fixing that start up error you were getting. http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb963902.aspx

That was in reference to your post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/5430_30#post_19624405

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> It's a D-Link Range Booster, it works on my HP and it was working on my Sabertooth build a first. It actually shows google searches and load youtube(not videos though) and it shows the networks so it's working in some way still


If you are using a Dlink wireless adapter then you need to get Windows 8 drivers from Dlink for it. At least, that's what you should do. If you aren't getting an internet connection when plugged directly to your modem or router, you've got router or ISP issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lnfamous*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Yeah I think as long everything remains stable I'm not going to worry about it.


Sounds good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *humayunh*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I am making a new build
> i5 3570K
> Vengeance® - 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11B)
> H100i
> 
> and earlier i was going with a http://www.gigabyte.pk/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4140#ov
> Since i didn't see any point spending so much on a motherboard. But i was checking out the Z77 Sabertooth and damn it looks hot!
> Now by spending a 100$+ more on this, what kind of improvements can i expect? I have a ASUS P5Q board with my C2D 2.53 @ 3.8Ghz so i really like ASUS boards. Even though i used to have a really high end SLI ASUS board for my old AMD X2 and that thing BSOD'ed like anything.
> 
> Also i have a Audigy 2 ZS which is a PCI card. Now the sabertooth has no PCI slots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so this will be useless. How does the Realtek on it compare to the ZS? I will be using Creative Inspire 7900 on it for 5.1 and Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro's on it for headphones from time to time.


Time to upgrade video audio cards buddy. The 2 ZS doesn't even have current drivers anymore I believe. Get a creative Z series. Don't get the recon3D cards. They are trash.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *humayunh*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I am making a new build
> i5 3570K
> Vengeance® - 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CMZ8GX3M2A2133C11B)
> H100i
> 
> and earlier i was going with a http://www.gigabyte.pk/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4140#ov
> Since i didn't see any point spending so much on a motherboard. But i was checking out the Z77 Sabertooth and damn it looks hot!
> Now by spending a 100$+ more on this, what kind of improvements can i expect? I have a ASUS P5Q board with my C2D 2.53 @ 3.8Ghz so i really like ASUS boards. Even though i used to have a really high end SLI ASUS board for my old AMD X2 and that thing BSOD'ed like anything.
> 
> Also i have a Audigy 2 ZS which is a PCI card. Now the sabertooth has no PCI slots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so this will be useless. How does the Realtek on it compare to the ZS? I will be using Creative Inspire 7900 on it for 5.1 and Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro's on it for headphones from time to time.


You could always try this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158165

altough i think you are better of with onboard.
Sound is subjective thing, but if you are anything of an audio expert you probably won't be happy. Then again i doubt there would be any difference if you your demands are not high. I used onboard, xonar dg and now titanium xfi fatality pro. and with my headphones i really dont see that much of a difference. I guess it comes down to how sensitive your ears are and how good the speakers are. Personally i would not let me something like that stop me from getting the mbo, as you can always upgrade down the road.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Time to upgrade video cards buddy. The 2 ZS doesn't even have current drivers anymore I believe. Get a creative Z series. Don't get the recon3D cards. They are trash.


Audio you must have meant.


----------



## humayunh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> You could always try this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158165
> 
> altough i think you are better of with onboard.
> Sound is subjective thing, but if you are anything of an audio expert you probably won't be happy. Then again i doubt there would be any difference if you your demands are not high. I used onboard, xonar dg and now titanium xfi fatality pro. and with my headphones i really dont see that much of a difference. I guess it comes down to how sensitive your ears are and how good the speakers are. Personally i would not let me something like that stop me from getting the mbo, as you can always upgrade down the road.


lol that thing is damn expensive!







Costs more than the ZS itself









Also one last thing, as i asked earlier, what kind of improvements can i look forwards to with a Sabertooth over that Budget Z77 Gigabyte? More OC 'ing maybe? and?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Audio you must have meant.


Fixed























Quote:


> Originally Posted by *humayunh*
> 
> lol that thing is damn expensive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Costs more than the ZS itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also one last thing, as i asked earlier, what kind of improvements can i look forwards to with a Sabertooth over that Budget Z77 Gigabyte? More OC 'ing maybe? and?


Thermal armour, sexy look, clean look of UEFI, possibly better OC, great documentation, nice utilities like Thermal Radar, dust covers for unused slots...need I go on


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermal armour, sexy look, clean look of UEFI, possibly better OC, great documentation, nice utilities like Thermal Radar, dust covers for unused slots...need I go on


Dang it MotherFo, you're making it difficult for me to wait for my graphics card exchange talking like that!


----------



## MjKll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I was referring to this program for fixing that start up error you were getting. http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb963902.aspx
> 
> That was in reference to your post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/5430_30#post_19624405
> If you are using a Dlink wireless adapter then you need to get Windows 8 drivers from Dlink for it. At least, that's what you should do. If you aren't getting an internet connection when plugged directly to your modem or router, you've got router or ISP issues.
> Sounds good.
> Time to upgrade video audio cards buddy. The 2 ZS doesn't even have current drivers anymore I believe. Get a creative Z series. Don't get the recon3D cards. They are trash.


Yeah well it's all working now. The only issue now is it sometimes takes a while to connect but since my ssd boots really fast, I am not sure if it's just other apps catching up or if it's still a driver issue and if it is I'd rather not mess with that. It's not too bad at all as I can strangely connect manually as soon as I am in the desktop. I am almost 100 percent sure it was a driver issue so after the reset and installing the drivers again, including the Gigabyte Ethernet first before the Lan, and removing windows.old(I reclaimed 11.5 gb {o.o} )everything has been silky smooth. Hopefully it stays that way now


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Dang it MotherFo, you're making it difficult for me to wait for my graphics card exchange talking like that!


Sorry my friend








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MjKll*
> 
> Yeah well it's all working now. The only issue now is it sometimes takes a while to connect but since my ssd boots really fast, I am not sure if it's just other apps catching up or if it's still a driver issue and if it is I'd rather not mess with that. It's not too bad at all as I can strangely connect manually as soon as I am in the desktop. I am almost 100 percent sure it was a driver issue so after the reset and installing the drivers again, including the Gigabyte Ethernet first before the Lan, and removing windows.old(I reclaimed 11.5 gb {o.o} )everything has been silky smooth. Hopefully it stays that way now


Windows.old eh? Did you forget to format that SSD? As long as you are happy. I think you mean Gigabit not Gigabyte


----------



## Deceit

Hi, just checking in, does anyone know if the Z77 Sabertooth uses AHCI by default?


----------



## vapor matt

yes it does use AHCI by default. I never had to change mine as it was already selected


----------



## RagingCeltik

I have both asst fans installed on my sbth Z77. When I look at the monitor tab in the BIOS, both fans are running at 4000 - 5000 rpm. That seems way too high, and I can't seem to get them to run lower speeds. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCeltik*
> 
> I have both asst fans installed on my sbth Z77. When I look at the monitor tab in the BIOS, both fans are running at 4000 - 5000 rpm. That seems way too high, and I can't seem to get them to run lower speeds. Anyone else have this problem?


Mine are usually running about 4,000 RPM all the time. I've got them on the "Silent" profile in the BIOS. While they are quiet, I can't say for sure if this is normal/expected speeds though - just chiming in with what I got.


----------



## RagingCeltik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Mine are usually running about 4,000 RPM all the time. I've got them on the "Silent" profile in the BIOS. While they are quiet, I can't say for sure if this is normal/expected speeds though - just chiming in with what I got.


Maybe it's normal given their size. Another question: would it be worth it to upgrade my case fans to take advantage of the 4th fan connector pin on the motherboard? Or would that just be unnecessary? I feel the case (Cooler Master HAF X) is running much louder than I expected it (either that or its my Zalman CPU Fan) and I wondered if 4-pin fans would take better advantage of the board.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCeltik*
> 
> Maybe it's normal given their size. Another question: would it be worth it to upgrade my case fans to take advantage of the 4th fan connector pin on the motherboard? Or would that just be unnecessary? I feel the case (Cooler Master HAF X) is running much louder than I expected it (either that or its my Zalman CPU Fan) and I wondered if 4-pin fans would take better advantage of the board.


The stock cooling is pretty decent on the HAF-X. I used to own the same case a while back and found it reasonably quiet - not silent of course, but quieter than most other components. Are you sure it's not your CPU cooler?

TBH, if you want to look into adjusting fan speeds, I'd just get a good fan controller if you have a 5-1/4 bay open. The Bitfenix Hyrda Pro is a good unit and runs up to 30W per channel.


----------



## ProChargedLS2

Edit NVM. 3 way sli is barely better (no more than 10 fps) after reading reviews and what not. Just gonna add another.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

starting putting new (second) build together.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*


----------



## whitestsand

Heres my rig, Join me up too.............


----------



## bunja

Hey guys, here are some half decent pics of my rig.





Altough i did exchange the stock rear fan with scythe glidestream @1200 rpm after taking pictures.

edit: Actually looking at previous two posts I am wondering should have I posted anything at all.


----------



## Nycteral

i want to purchase this board. my only reservation is. i was told that to run at sata3 speeds you have to implement a raid array. though i don't think this is valid, i figured i would ask the experts. anyone here running a single ssd in ahci mode that is not set up as a raid array. that operates at sata 3 speeds otherwise 6 MB/s i know my question sounds tarded but it's relevant my current mobo is rated as a sata 2 board but because of the Nvidia chip-set limitations it only operates at sata 1 speeds


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nycteral*
> 
> i want to purchase this board. my only reservation is. i was told that to run at sata3 speeds you have to implement a raid array. though i don't think this is valid, i figured i would ask the experts. anyone here running a single ssd in ahci mode that is not set up as a raid array. that operates at sata 3 speeds otherwise 6 MB/s i know my question sounds tarded but it's relevant my current mobo is rated as a sata 2 board but because of the Nvidia chip-set limitations it only operates at sata 1 speeds


Don't worry about it man - you'll get SATA III speeds with just a single drive no problem. No need for RAID or anything like that.









---

Edit: Just to be clear, it's just 2 of the 6 ports on the Intel controller that are SATA III (the two brown SATA ports, IIRC). Otherwise, the other 4 are SATA II.


----------



## Nycteral

nice thanks


----------



## CODELESS

i have 2 x 128GB OCZ SSD's in Raid 0, MAN IS IT FAST ! so nice, windows startup and shut down is amazing, and Battlefield 3 ....... WOW, iv never seen maps load so fast, im now generally the 1st person in when the server changes maps.


----------



## Kman3107

Anyone knows if it's possible using iGPU and PCI-E GPU with 1 monitor on each?
I can't seem to even make the pc detect the iGPU atm.
I don't know what's stoping it, the motherboard, cpu or graphics card.
I can't even install the igpu drivers. Says I'm not meeting the minimum req. (guess that's because pc not detecting the iGPU)

Any inputs?


----------



## MADworld

The CPU temperature in Thermal Radar freezes when it hits 40 degrees, the other temps seem to be fine and keep changing, the only fix I've found is to restart. If I don't restart it causes my PWM waterpump to jump to a constant 50% because it's connected to the CPU fan header. It will stay at 50% until I reapply the fan profile in thermal radar ie. I change the curve a little bit and hit apply. The idle temp for the sensor is ~30 degrees but it stays at 40 regardless of load. I only use it to control my pump and 40mm motherboard fans. I use AIDA64 to see my real temperatures.

I'm in the middle of overclocking so it's a bit of a pain, is there any fix?

Sandy B 2500k, manual Vcore 1.35V, PPL overvolt: enabled, [email protected]
Stable with 12h Prime blend with 90% of ram used
Windows 7 SP1 64-bit
I didn't install any other AI suite apps only Thermal Radar 1.01.29.


Here you can see that I changed the curve a little bit and hit apply. The pump goes back down to 38% but the temp is still frozen at 40 degrees. Idle or full load, it doesn't matter.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Anyone knows if it's possible using iGPU and PCI-E GPU with 1 monitor on each?
> I can't seem to even make the pc detect the iGPU atm.
> I don't know what's stoping it, the motherboard, cpu or graphics card.
> I can't even install the igpu drivers. Says I'm not meeting the minimum req. (guess that's because pc not detecting the iGPU)
> 
> Any inputs?


Look in the BIOS under one of the settings tabs, I believe it's under the NB Settings. Look for an option called "iGPU Multi Monitor" and set it to 'Enabled'. This is the only way to enable the iGPU at all on this board. After thats enabled make sure you have the latest Intel drivers so that Windows will properly see the multi monitor setup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MADworld*
> 
> The CPU temperature in Thermal Radar freezes when it hits 40 degrees, the other temps seem to be fine and keep changing, the only fix I've found is to restart. If I don't restart it causes my PWM waterpump to jump to a constant 50% because it's connected to the CPU fan header. It will stay at 50% until I reapply the fan profile in thermal radar ie. I change the curve a little bit and hit apply. The idle temp for the sensor is ~30 degrees but it stays at 40 regardless of load. I only use it to control my pump and 40mm motherboard fans. I use AIDA64 to see my real temperatures.
> 
> I'm in the middle of overclocking so it's a bit of a pain, is there any fix?
> 
> Sandy B 2500k, manual Vcore 1.35V, PPL overvolt: enabled, [email protected]
> Stable with 12h Prime blend with 90% of ram used
> Windows 7 SP1 64-bit
> I didn't install any other AI suite apps only Thermal Radar 1.01.29.
> 
> 
> Here you can see that I changed the curve a little bit and hit apply. The pump goes back down to 38% but the temp is still frozen at 40 degrees. Idle or full load, it doesn't matter.


In the BIOS under the monitoring tab you can set ASUS smart fan controls. Set the CPU and assist fans to manual and you can define either PWM or voltage controls from there. Uninstall Thermal Radar first. If you want to use an ASUS utility in windows, go to the Maximus V support page and download Fan Xpert2 as its much better than the Sabertooth utility.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Look in the BIOS under one of the settings tabs, I believe it's under the NB Settings. Look for an option called "iGPU Multi Monitor" and set it to 'Enabled'. This is the only way to enable the iGPU at all on this board. After thats enabled make sure you have the latest Intel drivers so that Windows will properly see the multi monitor setup.


I have done that. But windows wont even detect it.
I've been trying to install the drivers spesific for the onboard graphics (both the asus ones and intel) but I keep getting the error that I don't meet the minimum requirements.

I've read someone with the same problem (the install problem that is) only was able to install the drivers after he removed his pci-e graphic card from the MB.
But I want to keep both on. I've seen some posts around about people having it. But never how I can make it happen. Or if it's even possible with my setup.


----------



## qdrummer21

After lurking for a couple of months doing my research, I've finally pulled the trigger and ordered my new system. I should be able to start building and then OCing by the end of next week. Once I have some final pics of the build I'll throw them up.

For now, I just wanted to put out a big, "thank you" to everyone. Without even knowing it, the information you guys provided to others was extremely valuable to me in my purchasing decisions.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> I have done that. But windows wont even detect it.
> I've been trying to install the drivers spesific for the onboard graphics (both the asus ones and intel) but I keep getting the error that I don't meet the minimum requirements.
> 
> I've read someone with the same problem (the install problem that is) only was able to install the drivers after he removed his pci-e graphic card from the MB.
> But I want to keep both on. I've seen some posts around about people having it. But never how I can make it happen. Or if it's even possible with my setup.


That's odd. Do you have anything set to display first? Try putting the display first to auto and unplug the monitor from your pcie card. I've had Lucid Virtu running on this mobo so I know for a fact that you can have the onboard turned on even with SLI.

If that doesn't work, reflash your bios. Sometimes the bios settings in this board will show a change but the board won't actually change the setting.

Welcome to the club qdrummer


----------



## MADworld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Look in the BIOS under one of the settings tabs, I believe it's under the NB Settings. Look for an option called "iGPU Multi Monitor" and set it to 'Enabled'. This is the only way to enable the iGPU at all on this board. After thats enabled make sure you have the latest Intel drivers so that Windows will properly see the multi monitor setup.
> In the BIOS under the monitoring tab you can set ASUS smart fan controls. Set the CPU and assist fans to manual and you can define either PWM or voltage controls from there. Uninstall Thermal Radar first. If you want to use an ASUS utility in windows, go to the Maximus V support page and download Fan Xpert2 as its much better than the Sabertooth utility.


Thank you, I did use bios initially but I wanted to use TR for the sliding scale and it also allows you to put the 40mm fans on 40% while bios only allows 60% which is too loud. I will take a look at Fan Xpert2 though.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> That's odd. Do you have anything set to display first? Try putting the display first to auto and unplug the monitor from your pcie card. I've had Lucid Virtu running on this mobo so I know for a fact that you can have the onboard turned on even with SLI.
> 
> If that doesn't work, reflash your bios. Sometimes the bios settings in this board will show a change but the board won't actually change the setting.
> 
> Welcome to the club qdrummer


So I just tried to change the pirmary display to "iGPU", but when I came back in it was back on "Auto".
I tried earlier to boot with no cable to my 680 but that didn't help. Should I stick with 1708 bios or go for the 1805? I hate flashing







The reason I have this motherboard is cause my p8z68 got bricked when flashing


----------



## MADworld

So I uninstalled AI suite with Thermal Radar -> reboot
I installed AI Suite with Fan Xpert 2 -> reboot

still there seems to be some residual settings left from the old install.



In bios the lowest possible setting is 60%, in TR it is 40% and in Fan Xpert 2 it seems to be 50% but for whatever reason it seems to be running on the old TR settings. Fan Xpert can actually display the yellow dot at 40% even though it is in the "forbidden" zone. This is odd....

I'll do some testing and see if this too has the 40 degree bug.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> So I just tried to change the pirmary display to "iGPU", but when I came back in it was back on "Auto".
> I tried earlier to boot with no cable to my 680 but that didn't help. Should I stick with 1708 bios or go for the 1805? I hate flashing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I have this motherboard is cause my p8z68 got bricked when flashing


I'd recommend 1805 in your case. Bricking is super rare (I flashed my GB BIOS from within Windows >50 times) but I believe the USB flashback method to be the safest since the absolute minimum number of things are running when doing that. When I tried Virtu I was using 1805 bios, I used 1708 for like... 2 days lol.

As for Asus' uninstall process, let's just say it's bad and you should check svcs.msc and task scheduler as well as the install directory to make sure its gone. I too have a PWM pump on the cpu header.


----------



## lawlbringer

Two quick questions I'd like the most honest opinions on from those who own this board:

1. Is it worth installing Windows 8 on a Z77 based system like the Sabertooth? I got a free(genuine) copy but I'm worried about issues with USB 3.0/etc. I am NOT running the latest 1805 BIOS because it caused issues with my add-on GTX 670. I heard performance overall is better with Windows 8 but I'm not sure if it's really worth it over Windows 7. It's almost not compatible with the Symantec Endpoint AV I'm using.

2. Does driver install order even matter? I never had an issue with this before, just curious.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lawlbringer*
> 
> Two quick questions I'd like the most honest opinions on from those who own this board:
> 
> 1. Is it worth installing Windows 8 on a Z77 based system like the Sabertooth? I got a free(genuine) copy but I'm worried about issues with USB 3.0/etc. I am NOT running the latest 1805 BIOS because it caused issues with my add-on GTX 670. I heard performance overall is better with Windows 8 but I'm not sure if it's really worth it over Windows 7. It's almost not compatible with the Symantec Endpoint AV I'm using.
> 
> 2. Does driver install order even matter? I never had an issue with this before, just curious.


1. Not having a start button and needing to use 3rd party apps to get one is a dealbreaker for me.

2. I usually do chipset first. I feel like the rest don't matter as much.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> 1. Not having a start button and needing to use 3rd party apps to get one is a dealbreaker for me.
> 
> 2. I usually do chipset first. I feel like the rest don't matter as much.


Exactly what he said.


----------



## rochey

Hey all, just got my board and having some quirky issues. Pretty much read this whole thread and can't find a fix.

1. Yes. I have the slow to post problem were it just hangs for 30 seconds on the logo. I have figured out that if I disable USB Support in the BIOS then it doesn't hang. With a 1 second delay time it gets to the Windows logo in no time at all. But then I'm screwed if I want to get into BIOS as the keyboard doesn't work.

To get in I unplug the SSD let it error then it defaults and let's me access the BIOS.

2. When I get to the desktop the Network Icon has the yellow connectivity error icon. Says no internet access. If I then load a browser or Steam, something that uses the net, then the icon disappears and I get full net access. It sometimes takes a few browser refreshes to get it to work.

What could that possibly be?

3. Graphics card isn't detected in the first PCIe slot. But works fine in second. I have yet to try reinstalling the driver when in the first so it might work.

From the photos posted you all have some sexy setups. Nice job!


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rochey*
> 
> Hey all, just got my board and having some quirky issues. Pretty much read this whole thread and can't find a fix.
> 
> 1. Yes. I have the slow to post problem were it just hangs for 30 seconds on the logo. I have figured out that if I disable USB Support in the BIOS then it doesn't hang. With a 1 second delay time it gets to the Windows logo in no time at all. But then I'm screwed if I want to get into BIOS as the keyboard doesn't work.
> 
> To get in I unplug the SSD let it error then it defaults and let's me access the BIOS.
> 
> 2. When I get to the desktop the Network Icon has the yellow connectivity error icon. Says no internet access. If I then load a browser or Steam, something that uses the net, then the icon disappears and I get full net access. It sometimes takes a few browser refreshes to get it to work.
> 
> What could that possibly be?
> 
> 3. Graphics card isn't detected in the first PCIe slot. But works fine in second. I have yet to try reinstalling the driver when in the first so it might work.
> 
> From the photos posted you all have some sexy setups. Nice job!


Not that you should have to live without USB at post but you can get into bios using Asus Boot Setting to boot directly in to bios. It's under utility on the support site from asus.


----------



## jktmas

not exactly sure where to post this because im not sure what the problem is but...
I bought a quadro FX 4500 to go with my GTX 570 as two separate cards (no sli) the power chord is in properly and it is seated in my board (sabertooth Z77) properly and completely. the fan will run but i cant install the driver or find the card in msinfo32/components/display im not sure exactly what the problem is. pics below


Spoiler: Warning: screen shots










Spoiler: Warning: pics












[IMG


----------



## MKHunt

Have you tried installing the quadro as the primary card? If nothing else, it would rule out the quadro being defunct and allow you to install the drivers.


----------



## jktmas

thanks, it booted right up and it is installing the drivers as i speak, i will then throw that back down to pcie x16_2 and the 570 back to top, if that dosn't work i will keep the quadro in slot 2 and get rid of the 570 to see if that works, if not my second lane might be dead, another screenie of bios


----------



## MKHunt

Auto is the way to go. Also refreshing to see someone take the troubleshooting to the next step without asking the forum!







We see way too little of that these days. Here's to hoping that you board doesn't have a bum lane.


----------



## jktmas

well if you look at that picture is says not available above the lane 3 selector box, and the card is there! also everything worked fine without the 570, i just put it in and now its not picking up the quadro again, would it be a good idea to try out the lucid logix thing? or would that not have a chance of working?


----------



## MKHunt

Lucid is just for the iGPU sadly. Does the card work if only slot 2 is populated?


----------



## jktmas

idk yet im about to find out


----------



## jktmas

sorry for the double post, i wanted you to see a little 1 next to your live feed, i cant even see a boot screen because it dosn't detect the gpu on lane 2. im going to throw the quadro on lane 1 and the 570 on lane 2 and see if i can pick up the 570 on lane 2, if not how else can i determine if the 2nd lane is dead?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> sorry for the double post, i wanted you to see a little 1 next to your live feed, i cant even see a boot screen because it dosn't detect the gpu on lane 2. im going to throw the quadro on lane 1 and the 570 on lane 2 and see if i can pick up the 570 on lane 2, if not how else can i determine if the 2nd lane is dead?


Oh gross. You can enable the iGPU (MultiMonitor enabled in the PCH settings) and hook your screen to that to troubleshoot with just the quadro in slot 2. If slot 2 works, windows should at least see an unknown device.


----------



## jktmas

I don't have a way to do hdmi or display port







and bios will recognize my 570 in slot 2, but I won't be able to boot like that until tomorrow after school, I need to get some sleep. Post back tomorrow


----------



## jktmas

I don't have a way to do hdmi or display port







and bios will recognize my 570 in slot 2, but I won't be able to boot like that until tomorrow after school, I need to get some sleep. Post back tomorrow


----------



## darkphantom

I posted over in the Intel CPU section, but wanted to get your input.

I delidded my 3770k successfully







but when I went to reseat it, I got no video! So I took the CPU out and found what seemed like a slightly bent pin!









I have no idea how that happened as I am super careful when placing the CPU into the socket and have never had this happen on any of my CPUs.

Anyways, I tried bending it back and now I get a VGA_LED on my board. At first it was the CPU_LED but now it has switched to the VGA_LED.

Any ideas? I tried reseating the CMOS as well as onboard video (currently testing with right now). I've also tried to downgrade the BIOS but no go.

Thanks in advanced!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rochey*
> 
> Hey all, just got my board and having some quirky issues. Pretty much read this whole thread and can't find a fix.
> 
> 1. Yes. I have the slow to post problem were it just hangs for 30 seconds on the logo. I have figured out that if I disable USB Support in the BIOS then it doesn't hang. With a 1 second delay time it gets to the Windows logo in no time at all. But then I'm screwed if I want to get into BIOS as the keyboard doesn't work.
> 
> To get in I unplug the SSD let it error then it defaults and let's me access the BIOS.
> 
> 2. When I get to the desktop the Network Icon has the yellow connectivity error icon. Says no internet access. If I then load a browser or Steam, something that uses the net, then the icon disappears and I get full net access. It sometimes takes a few browser refreshes to get it to work.
> 
> What could that possibly be?
> 
> 3. Graphics card isn't detected in the first PCIe slot. But works fine in second. I have yet to try reinstalling the driver when in the first so it might work.
> 
> From the photos posted you all have some sexy setups. Nice job!


1. Try the different settings here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309
Do you have USB external plugged in? How about a disk in the DVD drive? Those can both cause hangs

2. did you install the network control utility from the asus AI suite? That has been known to cause issues

3. Double check your pcie slot settings in the bios, are you running the latest?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I don't have a way to do hdmi or display port
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and bios will recognize my 570 in slot 2, but I won't be able to boot like that until tomorrow after school, I need to get some sleep. Post back tomorrow


Are you positive that you can use a quaddro with a regular 570 inside? I always thought the quaddro stood on its own. take the 570 out and then try the quaddro in the first slow and see if it works on its own. Then add the 570 back in. Having two different drivers/functions sounds like trouble to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkphantom*
> 
> I posted over in the Intel CPU section, but wanted to get your input.
> 
> I delidded my 3770k successfully
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but when I went to reseat it, I got no video! So I took the CPU out and found what seemed like a slightly bent pin!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea how that happened as I am super careful when placing the CPU into the socket and have never had this happen on any of my CPUs.
> 
> Anyways, I tried bending it back and now I get a VGA_LED on my board. At first it was the CPU_LED but now it has switched to the VGA_LED.
> 
> Any ideas? I tried reseating the CMOS as well as onboard video (currently testing with right now). I've also tried to downgrade the BIOS but no go.
> 
> Thanks in advanced!


Did you damage traces around the cpu like previously posted in this thread by Totally Dubbed ? Have you tried bending the pin back? The pin would be in the motherboard socket. It might be worth a try to reseat everything. (ram, vga) as well.


----------



## darkphantom

The CPU works in my brother's Maximus V.

I tried all my other components as well. it worked fine before the delid...not sure what happened afterwards that caused it to go all funky.

RMA'ing it. I think i'm going to sell it when they ship it back. For the mean time, I am trying the Maximus V Formula. Will let you guys know what happens with the RMA, thanks!


----------



## jktmas

ok now im really confused, i put the quadro into lane one like i did last night and now it will go through all the windows 8 startup thing then wont give me a logon screen. getting really frustrated as i wanted to try to render out an assignment tonight









EDIT: and when i try to use ez flash it says that the .cap file is not a uefi bios. so to recap. i cant get into windows, i cant flash a new bios..... any ideas?


----------



## darkphantom

Have you tried safe mode? can you get into dos?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> ok now im really confused, i put the quadro into lane one like i did last night and now it will go through all the windows 8 startup thing then wont give me a logon screen. getting really frustrated as i wanted to try to render out an assignment tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: and when i try to use ez flash it says that the .cap file is not a uefi bios. so to recap. i cant get into windows, i cant flash a new bios..... any ideas?


Format stick to fat32, put the bios file in the same folder as the asus bios renamer, stick it in the ezflash port on the back and hpld the button for 30 seconds then wait 2 minutes then boot the machine. force flash that sucker. also try forcing gen 2 for pcie.


----------



## bunja

Well i just got my noctua 40 mm fan for i/o and the thing does not fit. Oh well









edit: Tried a lot of pressing, did not work. Apart from taking a scalpel and cutting the i/o panel i do not think it will ever fit if anyone fitted one can you tell me the secret how you did it.

update:btw it has bigger holes then the screws holes on io panel so i doubt i would be able to screw them with original screws which means using normal screws resulting in widening the holes on io panel i guess.

It is regretable that every review and specs ive seen state the height to 10 mm as in fact is quite higher.

Now not to totally waste this fan do you guys think it would be able to hold with only one screw in the center of the mobo replacing the 35 mm one?


----------



## rochey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> 1. Try the different settings here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309
> Do you have USB external plugged in? How about a disk in the DVD drive? Those can both cause hangs
> 
> 2. did you install the network control utility from the asus AI suite? That has been known to cause issues
> 
> 3. Double check your pcie slot settings in the bios, are you running the latest?
> Are you positive that you can use a quaddro with a regular 570 inside? I always thought the quaddro stood on its own. take the 570 out and then try the quaddro in the first slow and see if it works on its own. Then add the 570 back in. Having two different drivers/functions sounds like trouble to me.
> Did you damage traces around the cpu like previously posted in this thread by Totally Dubbed ? Have you tried bending the pin back? The pin would be in the motherboard socket. It might be worth a try to reseat everything. (ram, vga) as well.


Hi thanks for the reply.

1. No USB other than Keyboard and Mouse. No DVD drive attached. I Tried the different settings and nothing changed. My BIOS version (latest) has a setting 'Intel USB 2.0 EHCI Controller'. Disabling this stops any usb working at bios and Windows but makes for a faster boot - Clearly not a good idea though.

The issue is definitely a USB related one. I found an interesting snippet of information in the 'UEFI Driver Development Guide for USB Host Controllers' released by Intel. It says _'Be careful when using periodic timers. Using timers incorrectly can significantly slow the boot process, as well as slow the performance of the system browser. '_

Does the above point to potentially bad coding of the drivers by Asus?

LINK : http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/unified-extensible-firmware-interface/uefi-driver-usb-host-controllers-guide.html

2. I had read about the network control utility before hand so have not installed it. This issue seems to have fixed itself as the internet connects instantly now.
3. I uninstalled/reinstalled the drivers and the top PCIe is working now so this issue is solved too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kman3107*
> 
> Not that you should have to live without USB at post but you can get into bios using Asus Boot Setting to boot directly in to bios. It's under utility on the support site from asus.


Thanks for the pointer on this, i did see it in the manual but it didn't seem clear if it was a piece of software or not (at least not to me







). This is a great work around if i can't find an ultimate fix and have to live with no USB at POST.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Well i just got my noctua 40 mm fan for i/o and the thing does not fit. Oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Tried a lot of pressing, did not work. Apart from taking a scalpel and cutting the i/o panel i do not think it will ever fit if anyone fitted one can you tell me the secret how you did it.
> 
> update:btw it has bigger holes then the screws holes on io panel so i doubt i would be able to screw them with original screws which means using normal screws resulting in widening the holes on io panel i guess.
> 
> It is regretable that every review and specs ive seen state the height to 10 mm as in fact is quite higher.
> 
> Now not to totally waste this fan do you guys think it would be able to hold with only one screw in the center of the mobo replacing the 35 mm one?


If you are referring to the fan that goes right next to the PCIE slot, I believe previous users in this forum said it doesn't fit there. It only fits on the one that fits within the thermal armor. (rear io panel)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rochey*
> 
> Hi thanks for the reply.
> 
> 1. No USB other than Keyboard and Mouse. No DVD drive attached. I Tried the different settings and nothing changed. My BIOS version (latest) has a setting 'Intel USB 2.0 EHCI Controller'. Disabling this stops any usb working at bios and Windows but makes for a faster boot - Clearly not a good idea though.
> 
> The issue is definitely a USB related one. I found an interesting snippet of information in the 'UEFI Driver Development Guide for USB Host Controllers' released by Intel. It says _'Be careful when using periodic timers. Using timers incorrectly can significantly slow the boot process, as well as slow the performance of the system browser. '_
> 
> Does the above point to potentially bad coding of the drivers by Asus?
> 
> LINK : http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/architecture-and-technology/unified-extensible-firmware-interface/uefi-driver-usb-host-controllers-guide.html
> 
> 2. I had read about the network control utility before hand so have not installed it. This issue seems to have fixed itself as the internet connects instantly now.
> 3. I uninstalled/reinstalled the drivers and the top PCIe is working now so this issue is solved too.
> Thanks for the pointer on this, i did see it in the manual but it didn't seem clear if it was a piece of software or not (at least not to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). This is a great work around if i can't find an ultimate fix and have to live with no USB at POST.


There's a lot of factors at play here, so bare with me.

Which keyboard do you have? Is it a fancy one or just a simple usb 2.0 keyboard? Have you tried another keyboard? Does this keyboard cause issues with other machines?

If you leave the keyboard unplugged, but keep the mouse plugged in, does it boot fast or hang as well?

Have you tried resetting the CMOS or the bios to defaults?

Are you overclocking?

In the link from my previous post, Legacy USB should be auto. Legacy USB 3 should be enabled, and you can experiment with xHCI modes. (that setting is what resolved hangs/external hard drive issues for me)

EHCI hands off should stay disabled. All of these settings should be available to you because you are using the Sabertooth board.

Also, which usbs are you plugged into? There are also ASMEDIA 3.0 ports that can be enabled/disabled in another menu. You should be using the ports near the top. The non-blue ones.

For the hell of it, have you verified your SSD is plugged into the intel SATA ports?


----------



## jktmas

ok new plan, force flash, and install a new version of windows server 2012
EDIT: just going with w7


----------



## jktmas

hey mk hunt... i did your force bios thingy, now when i press the power button it does absolutely nothing...


----------



## rochey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> There's a lot of factors at play here, so bare with me.
> 
> Which keyboard do you have? Is it a fancy one or just a simple usb 2.0 keyboard? Have you tried another keyboard? Does this keyboard cause issues with other machines?
> 
> If you leave the keyboard unplugged, but keep the mouse plugged in, does it boot fast or hang as well?
> 
> Have you tried resetting the CMOS or the bios to defaults?
> 
> Are you overclocking?
> 
> In the link from my previous post, Legacy USB should be auto. Legacy USB 3 should be enabled, and you can experiment with xHCI modes. (that setting is what resolved hangs/external hard drive issues for me)
> 
> EHCI hands off should stay disabled. All of these settings should be available to you because you are using the Sabertooth board.
> 
> Also, which usbs are you plugged into? There are also ASMEDIA 3.0 ports that can be enabled/disabled in another menu. You should be using the ports near the top. The non-blue ones.
> 
> For the hell of it, have you verified your SSD is plugged into the intel SATA ports?


Replying on my phone so bare with me









Keyboard is a simple enough Microsoft one. No fancy stuff. Never had any issues on my old comp or others. No overclock. If I unplug it then the boot time is much faster.

I am using the Intel sata ports not the grey asmedia ones.

I reset the BIOS and it booted at a respectable speed with keyboard. This is were it gets strange. I restarted from windows and it hung. Let it cycle through eventually and restarted from windows. This time it booted really quickly. Kept this cycle and got the same result. Hang, fast, hang, fast etc.

I thought I'd found a pattern and changed the xhci mode to disabled. This point its really random. I got fast boots on restarts and shut downs. Power cable unplugged/replugged and still got a fast. Then I press delete to go into BIOS and it hangs for 30secs. From then on it hung or was fast apparently at random.

Another quirk is I have the boot image off and POST screen on for 5 sec delay. This screen hardly ever appears whether its a fast or hang.

I realise I have rambled a bit. After work I will get some precise configuration and results recorded.

Thanks!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> hey mk hunt... i did your force bios thingy, now when i press the power button it does absolutely nothing...


Wat? Blasphemy. Do it again. I did it like 5x today. (multiplier kept getting stuck)


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Well i just got my noctua 40 mm fan for i/o and the thing does not fit. Oh well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: Tried a lot of pressing, did not work. Apart from taking a scalpel and cutting the i/o panel i do not think it will ever fit if anyone fitted one can you tell me the secret how you did it.
> 
> update:btw it has bigger holes then the screws holes on io panel so i doubt i would be able to screw them with original screws which means using normal screws resulting in widening the holes on io panel i guess.
> 
> It is regretable that every review and specs ive seen state the height to 10 mm as in fact is quite higher.
> 
> Now not to totally waste this fan do you guys think it would be able to hold with only one screw in the center of the mobo replacing the 35 mm one?


I too had this issue also when I purchased the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX fan. Your board should've came with two mounting plates for the rear fan, one to suit the standard 35mm fan and another to suit optional 40mm fan so use the one for the 40mm fan. I removed the little rubber bits in all the corners of the fan. You'll need to file the top edges of the fan for it to fit nicely into the mounting plate. With the mounting screws I think I used a couple of standard fan screws I had lying around or if some came with the fan, I don't remember as it was some time ago I did it but they are the coarse threaded with small tapered head.

It won't fit in the middle of the board as it will overlap the armor which would have to be cut.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I too had this issue also when I purchased the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX fan. Your board should've came with two mounting plates for the rear fan, one to suit the standard 35mm fan and another to suit optional 40mm fan so use the one for the 40mm fan. I removed the little rubber bits in all the corners of the fan. You'll need to file the top edges of the fan for it to fit nicely into the mounting plate. With the mounting screws I think I used a couple of standard fan screws I had lying around or if some came with the fan, I don't remember as it was some time ago I did it but they are the coarse threaded with small tapered head.
> 
> It won't fit in the middle of the board as it will overlap the armor which would have to be cut.


Thank you, what did you use for filing the edges?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> The new 40mm Noctua fan. I can highly recommend it for the IO fan slot on our boards. I have tried several other 40mm fans of varying quality and speed. This is the best by far. It is marginally slower than the 6000RPM originals but the bigger size and better design more than make up the difference. At full speed the Noctua is barely audible from my case, the originals at full speed put out a harsh buzzing that requires them to be set very low with a user fan profile.
> They are expensive for a small fan but I have spent much more then the cost of one of these buying cheap 40mm fans from ebay and other sources and found them no better or often worse than the original fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I just had to grind off a small plastic lip on the mount that was preventing the fan from aligning with the screw holes. It is the very slight raised edge on the opposite side of the fan to the holes.
> 
> I have had other 40mm X 10mm fans in there without trouble. The Noctua is by far the best I have tried though


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Thank you, what did you use for filing the edges?


just a metal file








if you don't have a metal file use a metal nail file which might work, even a brick wall.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MADworld*
> 
> The CPU temperature in Thermal Radar freezes when it hits 40 degrees, the other temps seem to be fine and keep changing, the only fix I've found is to restart. If I don't restart it causes my PWM waterpump to jump to a constant 50% because it's connected to the CPU fan header. It will stay at 50% until I reapply the fan profile in thermal radar ie. I change the curve a little bit and hit apply. The idle temp for the sensor is ~30 degrees but it stays at 40 regardless of load. I only use it to control my pump and 40mm motherboard fans. I use AIDA64 to see my real temperatures.
> 
> I'm in the middle of overclocking so it's a bit of a pain, is there any fix?
> 
> Sandy B 2500k, manual Vcore 1.35V, PPL overvolt: enabled, [email protected]
> Stable with 12h Prime blend with 90% of ram used
> Windows 7 SP1 64-bit
> I didn't install any other AI suite apps only Thermal Radar 1.01.29.
> 
> 
> Here you can see that I changed the curve a little bit and hit apply. The pump goes back down to 38% but the temp is still frozen at 40 degrees. Idle or full load, it doesn't matter.


Other temp monitoring software like AIDA and OHWM conflict with the thermal radar software and give false temperature readings.

Uninstalling one or the other should fix the temp errors


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Other temp monitoring software like AIDA and OHWM conflict with the thermal radar software and give false temperature readings.
> 
> Uninstalling one or the other should fix the temp errors


I guess just not running them both at same time should do it, not really needed to uninstall them, or not?


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> just a metal file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you don't have a metal file use a metal nail file which might work, even a brick wall.


thnx nail thingy did i brushed the back a bit and it fit. It is a great fan apart from i dont have any waranty now but hey who cares..


----------



## jktmas

ok new bios is flashed, it reset all of my settings but for some reason i still have the boot logo from my old one. i am currently installing w7 with just the quadro installed, the 570 will be added later. ooh and my trackpad on my laptop isn't working, lovely.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> ok new bios is flashed, it reset all of my settings but for some reason i still have the boot logo from my old one. i am currently installing w7 with just the quadro installed, the 570 will be added later. ooh and my trackpad on my laptop isn't working, lovely.


The 1805 logo is the same as the 1708, but different than the 15xx. If the logo is the same as the 15xx then its an incomplete flash or something.

I read somewhere that you might need multi monitor to use both cards since the quadro cannot render on a display plugged into the gtx.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> ok new bios is flashed, it reset all of my settings but for some reason i still have the boot logo from my old one. i am currently installing w7 with just the quadro installed, the 570 will be added later. ooh and my trackpad on my laptop isn't working, lovely.
> 
> 
> 
> The 1805 logo is the same as the 1708, but different than the 15xx. If the logo is the same as the 15xx then its an incomplete flash or something.
> 
> I read somewhere that you might need multi monitor to use both cards since the quadro cannot render on a display plugged into the gtx.
Click to expand...

I am using two displays as extended, and no i was using 1805 before, and its showing my custom logo i made a while ago for an 1805 bios that i flashed. also its all up with no 570 in it yet, still installing updates, drivers, and software. will be downloading 3ds max soon then the 3ds max quadro performance driver. the only thing im questioning is that when i right click, it looks like when i right click in w8 not w7???? like

go home microsoft, your druink

EDIT: i would also like to note that i believe my psu to be fried if not close to it. things like fans and my h80 will run on low settings while turned off and i noticed that after i ran my system at max for 59 hours rendering out a mid term. i will have to replace that before i will try to do anything else as a believe that could be a reason for gpu's to suddenly stop pushing anything but black pixels. i am on my way to xfx.com to check for warranty.

EDIT#2: this is what i sent them

Hello helpdesk,

I purchased an XFX pro 750W core edition power supply, and I am 90% sure that it is what is causing my problems. I am not sure if I have voided the warranty by removing this sticker but the pamphlet that came with the power supply said that the warranty was void if the psu was opened. I still have the sticker, it is just not on the power supply at this time.

Scenario:
I had to render out a mid term movie that took 59 hours to render, but I was monitoring the ambient temps, and the temps of my components and everything was fine.

Symptoms:
Now whenever I turn my pc off, some of the things that are plugged directly into the psu will stay on at very low voltages. For example the fans that I do have plugged into the power supply instead of the mother board will run the led's very dimly and the fans will run at a very low speed. In addition to that, my pump for my liquid cooling system will keep the lights on very dimly and will also run at very low speeds. I am also afraid that it might have either fried the pcie lanes on my motherboard or my quadro card. When I do finally boot into windows ( I have tried 7 and 8 ) my screens will go black before I can log in, I believe it is because there is a power drop to my graphics cards.

You advertise a five year five star warranty and I have only had it for one year and 4 to 5 months. Please reply to me with what I can do to get a new power supply.

S/N: XXXXXXXXX

Thanks in advance,
Jacob Thomas

EDIT #3: this is my new peak load with the quadro installed on my 750w psu


----------



## KostVouts

Pc build with my sexy Asus Sabertooth Z77
CPU: Intel i7 3770k (4.5Ghz)
GPU:Asus GTX 660Ti
PSU: Xilence 750W Gaming PSU
Memory: Kingston Beast 16GB 2400Mhz
EK Waterblocks and more...


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> the only thing im questioning is that when i right click, it looks like when i right click in w8 not w7???? like
> 
> go home microsoft, your druink


That's Chrome, new right click menu for touch optimization


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> thnx nail thingy did i brushed the back a bit and it fit. It is a great fan apart from i dont have any waranty now but hey who cares..


Great news, well done


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I am using two displays as extended, and no i was using 1805 before, and its showing my custom logo i made a while ago for an 1805 bios that i flashed. also its all up with no 570 in it yet, still installing updates, drivers, and software. will be downloading 3ds max soon then the 3ds max quadro performance driver. the only thing im questioning is that when i right click, it looks like when i right click in w8 not w7???? like
> 
> go home microsoft, your druink
> 
> EDIT: i would also like to note that i believe my psu to be fried if not close to it. things like fans and my h80 will run on low settings while turned off and i noticed that after i ran my system at max for 59 hours rendering out a mid term. i will have to replace that before i will try to do anything else as a believe that could be a reason for gpu's to suddenly stop pushing anything but black pixels. i am on my way to xfx.com to check for warranty.
> 
> EDIT#2: this is what i sent them
> 
> Hello helpdesk,
> 
> I purchased an XFX pro 750W core edition power supply, and I am 90% sure that it is what is causing my problems. I am not sure if I have voided the warranty by removing this sticker but the pamphlet that came with the power supply said that the warranty was void if the psu was opened. I still have the sticker, it is just not on the power supply at this time.
> 
> Scenario:
> I had to render out a mid term movie that took 59 hours to render, but I was monitoring the ambient temps, and the temps of my components and everything was fine.
> 
> Symptoms:
> Now whenever I turn my pc off, some of the things that are plugged directly into the psu will stay on at very low voltages. For example the fans that I do have plugged into the power supply instead of the mother board will run the led's very dimly and the fans will run at a very low speed. In addition to that, my pump for my liquid cooling system will keep the lights on very dimly and will also run at very low speeds. I am also afraid that it might have either fried the pcie lanes on my motherboard or my quadro card. When I do finally boot into windows ( I have tried 7 and 8 ) my screens will go black before I can log in, I believe it is because there is a power drop to my graphics cards.
> 
> You advertise a five year five star warranty and I have only had it for one year and 4 to 5 months. Please reply to me with what I can do to get a new power supply.
> 
> S/N: XXXXXXXXX
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Jacob Thomas
> 
> EDIT #3: this is my new peak load with the quadro installed on my 750w psu


Wowzers, thats some rotten luck! XFX should play nicely though. Speaking of PSUs, i'm not sure how feasible my 850w really is with two titans and all my OCing. The fan comes on hard and fast when I play any game









Do you have a backup?


----------



## PeachYogurt

Hey guys I recently built my new gaming pc last week (and obviously got the Z77 Sabertooth ^^) and was looking to overclock my CPU using Asus Suite 2 like in this video -- 




But I cannot seem to find "Auto Tuning"

Here's a SS of my Asus Suite 2
(I'm aware I have a different version from the video)

http://i47.tinypic.com/dovx50.jpg

This is my first time building a computer so plz be kind lol, thanks guys.


----------



## jktmas

I do not ahve a backup, and the only one i was able to find from a friend was bellow my rated wattage.


----------



## Ziland

This is a custom case using the Z77 board. Perfect board for an open case.


----------



## Deceit

Just out of curiosity. Is the default Bios on this board really, really terrible or is it just me?

When I got my board and built this PC, I couldn't get a stable OC to save my life. Not even a simple 4.2ghz OC.

After some struggles updating to the latest BIOS, I got an easy, stable 4.6ghz OC with 0.005 offset. So very happy with the results, and the board has been rock solid ever since.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Alright, so finally got the rig to a point that I went to install windows and it's proven to be more of a chore than the build itself. I'll bleed a watercooling system any day over dealing with Microsoft issues. In any event, can't get windows to load.

-Loading windows 7 ultimate UEFI off a thumb drive
-1805 bios on the MB
-Using the Intel Sata 3 ports
-SSD Mushkin Cronos Deluxe (I think this might need a firmware update, but Mushkin's site has been down)
-Tried AHCI and IDE modes (read that some people had to run it as IDE first and then do a firmware update)
-Switched the SSD from sata port 1 to sata port 2

Windows starts to install and gets anywhere from 24% to 82% unpacking the files and then errors out. When I restart, the SSD isn't showing in the bios and I have to restart again or wait a little while and it restart again for it to come back.

Anyone had any issues like this?

Btw, the error I get is error code: 0x80070002 (I read into this and people say anything from corrupt install media to hard drive, to memory. I've tried other install media and the same issue occurs. Memory checks out fine as well.)


----------



## MADworld

I'm finding it hard to trust overclocking guides for this or any Z77 board because they are all written for Ivy CPU:s and I'm running a Sandy Bridge. So are there any differences in bios settings that I need to take into account or can I rely on these settings? Ivy Thread


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rochey*
> 
> Replying on my phone so bare with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keyboard is a simple enough Microsoft one. No fancy stuff. Never had any issues on my old comp or others. No overclock. If I unplug it then the boot time is much faster.
> 
> I am using the Intel sata ports not the grey asmedia ones.
> 
> I reset the BIOS and it booted at a respectable speed with keyboard. This is were it gets strange. I restarted from windows and it hung. Let it cycle through eventually and restarted from windows. This time it booted really quickly. Kept this cycle and got the same result. Hang, fast, hang, fast etc.
> 
> I thought I'd found a pattern and changed the xhci mode to disabled. This point its really random. I got fast boots on restarts and shut downs. Power cable unplugged/replugged and still got a fast. Then I press delete to go into BIOS and it hangs for 30secs. From then on it hung or was fast apparently at random.
> 
> Another quirk is I have the boot image off and POST screen on for 5 sec delay. This screen hardly ever appears whether its a fast or hang.
> 
> I realise I have rambled a bit. After work I will get some precise configuration and results recorded.
> 
> Thanks!


Ok, sounds good, because you didn't answer a few of my questions.









What bios version are you using?
Are you overclocking?
Does your SSD have a firmware update?
Have you got anything else plugged into the unit? (externals, sound cards, usb headset, DVDRW, blu-ray drive)

Do you have fast boot enabled? Are you running Windows 7 or Windows 8
If you have boot image off, you won't see anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Alright, so finally got the rig to a point that I went to install windows and it's proven to be more of a chore than the build itself. I'll bleed a watercooling system any day over dealing with Microsoft issues. In any event, can't get windows to load.
> 
> -Loading windows 7 ultimate UEFI off a thumb drive
> -1805 bios on the MB
> -Using the Intel Sata 3 ports
> -SSD Mushkin Cronos Deluxe (I think this might need a firmware update, but Mushkin's site has been down)
> -Tried AHCI and IDE modes (read that some people had to run it as IDE first and then do a firmware update)
> -Switched the SSD from sata port 1 to sata port 2
> 
> Windows starts to install and gets anywhere from 24% to 82% unpacking the files and then errors out. When I restart, the SSD isn't showing in the bios and I have to restart again or wait a little while and it restart again for it to come back.
> 
> Anyone had any issues like this?
> 
> Btw, the error I get is error code: 0x80070002 (I read into this and people say anything from corrupt install media to hard drive, to memory. I've tried other install media and the same issue occurs. Memory checks out fine as well.)


Try it without UEFI flash install, I use ultraiso to load windows 7 onto bootable usbs. What tool are you using?

Check that SSD for firmware update

You want ACHI

Are you using the ASMEDIA or Intel USB 3 ports?

How many passes did u get with memtest86+ ?

Have you formatted the SSD?


----------



## MADworld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Alright, so finally got the rig to a point that I went to install windows and it's proven to be more of a chore than the build itself. I'll bleed a watercooling system any day over dealing with Microsoft issues. In any event, can't get windows to load.
> 
> -Loading windows 7 ultimate UEFI off a thumb drive
> -1805 bios on the MB
> -Using the Intel Sata 3 ports
> -SSD Mushkin Cronos Deluxe (I think this might need a firmware update, but Mushkin's site has been down)
> -Tried AHCI and IDE modes (read that some people had to run it as IDE first and then do a firmware update)
> -Switched the SSD from sata port 1 to sata port 2
> 
> Windows starts to install and gets anywhere from 24% to 82% unpacking the files and then errors out. When I restart, the SSD isn't showing in the bios and I have to restart again or wait a little while and it restart again for it to come back.
> 
> Anyone had any issues like this?
> 
> Btw, the error I get is error code: 0x80070002 (I read into this and people say anything from corrupt install media to hard drive, to memory. I've tried other install media and the same issue occurs. Memory checks out fine as well.)


Are you trying to install Windows in the EFI/UEFI/GPT or whatever the format is called? In that case I suggest you take a look here http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_30

If that is not the problem and you are using the normal install, the more common MBR mode, in that case I suspect there could be a ram or install media problem. Try running memtest to make sure your ram is ok. Also make sure that your thumb drive is configured correctly and that the install files are not corrupt, you can find the instructions in the same guide.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Ok, sounds good, because you didn't answer a few of my questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What bios version are you using?
> Are you overclocking?
> Does your SSD have a firmware update?
> Have you got anything else plugged into the unit? (externals, sound cards, usb headset, DVDRW, blu-ray drive)
> 
> Do you have fast boot enabled? Are you running Windows 7 or Windows 8
> If you have boot image off, you won't see anything.
> Try it without UEFI flash install, I use ultraiso to load windows 7 onto bootable usbs. What tool are you using?
> 
> Check that SSD for firmware update
> 
> You want ACHI
> 
> Are you using the ASMEDIA or Intel USB 3 ports?
> 
> How many passes did u get with memtest86+ ?
> 
> Have you formatted the SSD?


Bios: 1805

No overclocking until windows is installed for me

My SSD I believe does have a firmware update, but I'm not sure if I will be able to update it before getting windows on it. I'll see if I can get a solution to this if it's the only thing left to try.

Everything is disconnected except for mouse, keyboard, and monitor. I did try it with and without the dvd drive because I've tried using a dvd and thumb drive to load windows.

Fast Boot is enabled and this is a fresh install of Windows 7.

I could try without UEFI but I wanna use it!







...boot times are much faster and data integrity is better preserved as well.

I made my USB stick bootable via command line and copied the contents of the win7 dvd to the drive. I had to add the boot folder with the bootx64.efi of course.

I had ACHI on, but since I was told some people had initial problems getting the drivers recognized for their drive, I tried IDE as well. Neither worked.

I'm using the Intel USB3 ports.

3 passes of memtest.

SSD formatted with GPT.

I've also cleared the CMOS via jumper.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MADworld*
> 
> Are you trying to install Windows in the EFI/UEFI/GPT or whatever the format is called? In that case I suggest you take a look here http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds/0_30
> 
> If that is not the problem and you are using the normal install, the more common MBR mode, in that case I suspect there could be a ram or install media problem. Try running memtest to make sure your ram is ok. Also make sure that your thumb drive is configured correctly and that the install files are not corrupt, you can find the instructions in the same guide.


Yes, I've set everything up as it is in that guide, although I didn't use that guide to set it up. I'm installing a UEFI windows 7 install on a GPT partition. I've tried two different win7 install sources and neither worked, but I haven't downloaded his yet. I might try that as well, although I don't think it's the media.


----------



## MADworld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Yes, I've set everything up as it is in that guide, although I didn't use that guide to set it up. I'm installing a UEFI windows 7 install on a GPT partition. I've tried two different win7 install sources and neither worked, but I haven't downloaded his yet. I might try that as well, although I don't think it's the media.


In that case wait until the website is back up or try to find an alternate source for the firmware. If you haven't already you should check that your install actually boots in UEFI mode. You can hit Shift+F10 during the install and run "notepad \Windows\Panther\setupact.log" you should be able to search for the line "Callback_BootEnvironmentDetect: Detected boot environment: BIOS" it will say UEFI instead of BIOS if the media in configured right.

alternate guide: http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=209045


----------



## bunja

Hey all again, I got myself into a bit of a fan connection trouble I just got another 200 mm for my haf xm but have no more pwr fins on the board.

Now i have the cpu opt free and a replacement 140 pwm scythe glidestream.
From what i tested it does not show up in thermal radar, I am guessing that it uses the cpu fan settings?

Also is there any danger of plugging the 140 mm in cpu opt other than it is going to use the pwm settings of the cpu fan ( I kinda have no issues with that)

If so I could use cha fan 3 for the 2nd top 200 mm.

Oh and a bonus question, today i removed the gpu for some fan replacement in the case and noticed a transparent sticker over the asus logo on the pch, would i be correct in assuming thats the warranty related thing, or it can/should be removed? Did not find anything about it in a manual tough i might have skipped through some sections...

Thank you all a lot.


----------



## RagingCeltik

Ok, fellow Z77 owners. I need some troubleshooting advice and I'm not finding any help online on the ASUS forums or otherwise.

I recently rebuiilt a rig for a customer because his old mobo died. Since I just recently built a new system myself with the Z77 and am very, very happy with it, I recommended going with a Z77, which he did.

So his new rebuild is:

Mobo: Sabretooth Z77
CPU: Intel i7-3770K
Mem: Corsair Vengence 16GB (2x8)
SSD: 128GB OCZ Vertex 4
HDD 1TB WD
GPU: ATI Radeon HD 6970
OS: Windows 7 HP x64
Case: Cooler Master HAF X
BIOS: 1805 x64

Here's the problem:

The front panel USB 3.0 ports are connected via the blue USB 3.0 cable that came with the case. They are plugged into the mobo panel in the usb 3.0 slots next to the eSATA 6G ports. They are working as intended.

He also has an additional USB 3.0 panel installed into the front and plugged into the USB 3.0 port located next to the 24-pin power.

The problem is that both the bottom two USB 3.0 ports next to the ethernet jack on the mobo panel AND the additional front USB 3.0 panel are *not* working in Windows. If I plug a USB stick into any of these ports and boot into the BIOS, the BIOS will recognize the flash stick. As soon as Windows loads, all of those ports act as if they are non-existent.

The BIOS is up-to-date. The drivers are all installed as far as I can tell. Has anyone else encountered an issue like this? If the BIOS recognizes the flash stick in the ports not working in Windows, its hard to say its a motherboard problem, correct? If the drivers were somehow not installed, wouldn't the driver manager in windows say something?

I'm in the process of comparing BIOS and Windows drivers settings between his Z77 and mine to see if there are any differences, but I thought I would pick the community's brain. Maybe I'm missing something obvious.

Thanks for any help you can offer.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCeltik*
> 
> Ok, fellow Z77 owners. I need some troubleshooting advice and I'm not finding any help online on the ASUS forums or otherwise.
> 
> I recently rebuiilt a rig for a customer because his old mobo died. Since I just recently built a new system myself with the Z77 and am very, very happy with it, I recommended going with a Z77, which he did.
> 
> So his new rebuild is:
> 
> Mobo: Sabretooth Z77
> CPU: Intel i7-3770K
> Mem: Corsair Vengence 16GB (2x8)
> SSD: 128GB OCZ Vertex 4
> HDD 1TB WD
> GPU: ATI Radeon HD 6970
> OS: Windows 7 HP x64
> Case: Cooler Master HAF X
> BIOS: 1805 x64
> 
> Here's the problem:
> 
> The front panel USB 3.0 ports are connected via the blue USB 3.0 cable that came with the case. They are plugged into the mobo panel in the usb 3.0 slots next to the eSATA 6G ports. They are working as intended.
> 
> He also has an additional USB 3.0 panel installed into the front and plugged into the USB 3.0 port located next to the 24-pin power.
> 
> The problem is that both the bottom two USB 3.0 ports next to the ethernet jack on the mobo panel AND the additional front USB 3.0 panel are *not* working in Windows. If I plug a USB stick into any of these ports and boot into the BIOS, the BIOS will recognize the flash stick. As soon as Windows loads, all of those ports act as if they are non-existent.
> 
> The BIOS is up-to-date. The drivers are all installed as far as I can tell. Has anyone else encountered an issue like this? If the BIOS recognizes the flash stick in the ports not working in Windows, its hard to say its a motherboard problem, correct? If the drivers were somehow not installed, wouldn't the driver manager in windows say something?
> 
> I'm in the process of comparing BIOS and Windows drivers settings between his Z77 and mine to see if there are any differences, but I thought I would pick the community's brain. Maybe I'm missing something obvious.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can offer.


The two ports by the ethernet jack and mobo panel are 2 ASMEDIA and 2 INTEL ports. They can actually both be shut off in the bios, so verify you didn't do that. You can always reflash the bios as well. As long as they are enabled they should show in windows.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309 Double check the xhci setting. Try the different options.

Does the device show up in the device manager as something with a yellow exclamation?

What format is the drive?

Does it show up in disk management?

Is it used on a mac usually?

Have you gotten the Intel usb 3 drivers from their website?


----------



## RagingCeltik

I figured out the problem. The problem lies with the Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver. For some reason it will not install properly on his OS. I go to Intel's website and download the current driver, and after the installation all USB 3.0 ports are working fine. However, after the computer restarts, Windows acts like the drivers were never installed and the problem returns, forcing you to re-install the driver package again.







I'm trying to understand why.


----------



## RagingCeltik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> The two ports by the ethernet jack and mobo panel are 2 ASMEDIA and 2 INTEL ports. They can actually both be shut off in the bios, so verify you didn't do that. You can always reflash the bios as well. As long as they are enabled they should show in windows.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309 Double check the xhci setting. Try the different options.
> 
> Does the device show up in the device manager as something with a yellow exclamation?
> 
> What format is the drive?
> 
> Does it show up in disk management?
> 
> Is it used on a mac usually?
> 
> Have you gotten the Intel usb 3 drivers from their website?


I guess the answer is no, it is not showing up in the device manager ever though it should, especially after installing the correct drivers from intel's website.

The 128GB SSD the OS is installed on is NTFS.

Used on a mac? No. Custom PC build. Unless you meant something else by that.

All USB ports are active in the BIOS.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCeltik*
> 
> I guess the answer is no, it is not showing up in the device manager ever though it should, especially after installing the correct drivers from intel's website.


You are mentioning only Intel drivers if I am reading this ok on my phone, what about asmedia drivers?


----------



## RagingCeltik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> You are mentioning only Intel drivers if I am reading this ok on my phone, what about asmedia drivers?


ASmedia Drivers are installed. Tried the Intel USB 3.0 drivers from Intel first, then ASUS support, neither works.

The customer and I have the same case and the same motherboard, so I took his OS drive out and slapped it in mine, where everything works fine. When I booted into his OS, I had the same problem even after uninstalling and reinstalling the related drivers, so I know for a fact it is OS/driver related, not the mobo. I have tried uninstalling all software and drivers related to USB 3.0 and deleting their installation folders. But when I reinstall the USB 3.0 Intel and ASmedia drivers....nothing. Windows acts like its blind to them. What's funny is that when I uninstall the software, the USB 3.0 ports work...as 2.0.

I'm about to punch some electronics through the wall.









I might have to resort to reinstalling Windows....but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I'll have to talk to ASUS support I guess.


----------



## PeachYogurt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeachYogurt*
> 
> Hey guys I recently built my new gaming pc last week (and obviously got the Z77 Sabertooth ^^) and was looking to overclock my CPU using Asus Suite 2 like in this video --
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I cannot seem to find "Auto Tuning"
> 
> Here's a SS of my Asus Suite 2
> (I'm aware I have a different version from the video)
> 
> http://i47.tinypic.com/dovx50.jpg
> 
> This is my first time building a computer so plz be kind lol, thanks guys.


Can anyone help?









Don't know if its recommended that I use an old Asus Suite II version like in the video? :/


----------



## rochey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Ok, sounds good, because you didn't answer a few of my questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What bios version are you using?
> Are you overclocking?
> Does your SSD have a firmware update?
> Have you got anything else plugged into the unit? (externals, sound cards, usb headset, DVDRW, blu-ray drive)
> 
> Do you have fast boot enabled? Are you running Windows 7 or Windows 8
> If you have boot image off, you won't see anything.


Hey man, thanks for spending the time to reply again.

BIOS: 1805 (Latest at time of writing)

Overclock? : I originally had set the XMP for the RAM. When i hit these issues i disabled it until the problems were sorted.

SSD: Firmware is the latest.

Extras: Nothing only the bare minimum. Mouse, Keyboard and SSD.

OS: Win 7

Fast boot: ON with USB disabled = Fast boot. OFF = Fast and hanging boots. ON with USB enabled partially or fully = Same result as OFF.

I have spent hours messing with the settings and nothing seems to get it to behave like a normal system should. The way it is set up now is; Fast boot with USB disabled - this provides a consistent boot speed. If i need to enter the BIOS i am using the BootSetting utility, i then switch off fastboot and restart. Its a work around that is easy and works. I am of course gutted that i am having this trouble as anyone who buys something new would be.

Do you happen to know if new bios updates are still going to come out that could fix my problem?

Just want to add for anyone who might read that by disabling the asmedia controllers my boot speed increased considerably. This gave me a 9 second boot...before i attached my other hard drives which slowed it down.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Wow...I'm really stumped on this one. Memtest and HDD test both pass no errors on either. Have swapped out memstix anyways, SATA ports, SATA cables, multiple win7 source volumes...*scratches head*
I guess it could be MB or PSU, but I'm just not feeling that....ugh!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Bios: 1805
> 
> No overclocking until windows is installed for me
> 
> My SSD I believe does have a firmware update, but I'm not sure if I will be able to update it before getting windows on it. I'll see if I can get a solution to this if it's the only thing left to try.
> 
> Everything is disconnected except for mouse, keyboard, and monitor. I did try it with and without the dvd drive because I've tried using a dvd and thumb drive to load windows.
> 
> Fast Boot is enabled and this is a fresh install of Windows 7.
> 
> I could try without UEFI but I wanna use it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...boot times are much faster and data integrity is better preserved as well.
> 
> I made my USB stick bootable via command line and copied the contents of the win7 dvd to the drive. I had to add the boot folder with the bootx64.efi of course.
> 
> I had ACHI on, but since I was told some people had initial problems getting the drivers recognized for their drive, I tried IDE as well. Neither worked.
> 
> I'm using the Intel USB3 ports.
> 
> 3 passes of memtest.
> 
> SSD formatted with GPT.
> 
> I've also cleared the CMOS via jumper.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Wow...I'm really stumped on this one. Memtest and HDD test both pass no errors on either. Have swapped out memstix anyways, SATA ports, SATA cables, multiple win7 source volumes...*scratches head*
> I guess it could be MB or PSU, but I'm just not feeling that....ugh!


Did you try USB2.0 ports instead? Do you have empty HDD you can test install Win 7 in it? This is to rule out the SSD. Since you already tried multiple install media, you can safely rule it out. If you can install Win 7 in HDD, then something wrong with your SSD. Probably just need firmware update. If you also can't install Win 7 in HDD, then I think your RAM is faulty, which means you can try install Win 7 with one stick of RAM at a time to find out which is faulty.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Alright, well I found out what it was at least. Sucks a little that I have to RMA a part, but out of all the parts to have to RMA I'm glad it is the Mushkin SSD and not the MB. I had it narrowed down to one of the 2. I had some sata laptop hard drives laying around and popped one in. Windows installed right away without a hitch. Put the SSD back in and bam!...nada. Strange thing though is that it passed 3 different HDD tests. Anyways, another slight delay, but glad it's worked out.

Thanks to those who gave suggestions, it was greatly appreciated MotherFo and MADworld.


----------



## Kman3107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeachYogurt*
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know if its recommended that I use an old Asus Suite II version like in the video? :/


I would never use any software to oc the cpu. (again)
You can though.
I don't like to install Asus utilitys, to much trouble for me.
This is only my opinion though.

If you want to OC anything I suggest learning about it, then do it the bios way.

But again. Using software might work for you.

I tried once, using software. Clueless, stupid and headstrong. In the end I was just glad the computer didn't fry.


----------



## Deceit

DO NOT use the software!!! Upgrade to the latest BIOS, don't use the default BIOS (unless other people claim otherwise, my experience with it was utterly horrible and unacceptable). Play with variable voltage IMHO, the board has that feature for a reason. If your chip is decent, you should be able to do at least a 4.4ghz OC with offset/variable which is preferable IMO.

Also don't use software to OC, it's rather horrible as well. =P


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Did you try USB2.0 ports instead? Do you have empty HDD you can test install Win 7 in it? This is to rule out the SSD. Since you already tried multiple install media, you can safely rule it out. If you can install Win 7 in HDD, then something wrong with your SSD. Probably just need firmware update. If you also can't install Win 7 in HDD, then I think your RAM is faulty, which means you can try install Win 7 with one stick of RAM at a time to find out which is faulty.


Yup, I tried USB 2.0 ports in the front and back and 3.0 ports in the front and back...nada. It would boot off the flash media in UEFI and windows would start to install, but just never finish. Funny with the firmware on the SSD, it shipped with a more current firmware than what's even on Mushkin's site right now haha. When you go search the forums there you see people commenting on how they received a drive with later firmware than what can currently be downloaded. I think they just need to update their site. In any event, since the firmware was the latest, the drive had to go back.

Oh well, a little bit longer won't hurt I guess. I'll just use this laptop drive until it gets back.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCeltik*
> 
> ASmedia Drivers are installed. Tried the Intel USB 3.0 drivers from Intel first, then ASUS support, neither works.
> 
> The customer and I have the same case and the same motherboard, so I took his OS drive out and slapped it in mine, where everything works fine. When I booted into his OS, I had the same problem even after uninstalling and reinstalling the related drivers, so I know for a fact it is OS/driver related, not the mobo. I have tried uninstalling all software and drivers related to USB 3.0 and deleting their installation folders. But when I reinstall the USB 3.0 Intel and ASmedia drivers....nothing. Windows acts like its blind to them. What's funny is that when I uninstall the software, the USB 3.0 ports work...as 2.0.
> 
> I'm about to punch some electronics through the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to resort to reinstalling Windows....but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I'll have to talk to ASUS support I guess.


Try flashing BIOS version 1708, I know you said it's OS/driver related but a lot of us held of on flashing 1805 because of a number of issues. I did a clean install recently and I'm running 1708 without any issues.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCeltik*
> 
> I figured out the problem. The problem lies with the Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller Driver. For some reason it will not install properly on his OS. I go to Intel's website and download the current driver, and after the installation all USB 3.0 ports are working fine. However, after the computer restarts, Windows acts like the drivers were never installed and the problem returns, forcing you to re-install the driver package again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to understand why.


Ok, so look at that setting in my previous post and make sure xhci is NOT disabled. Go into windows, download the latest intel 3.0 drivers from their site and try to install them. If xhci is disabled, they will refuse to install as I found out one night...you can change it disabled afterwards if you wanted to though. It's a strange setting and a strange quirk.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rochey*
> 
> Hey man, thanks for spending the time to reply again.
> 
> BIOS: 1805 (Latest at time of writing)
> 
> Overclock? : I originally had set the XMP for the RAM. When i hit these issues i disabled it until the problems were sorted.
> 
> SSD: Firmware is the latest.
> 
> Extras: Nothing only the bare minimum. Mouse, Keyboard and SSD.
> 
> OS: Win 7
> 
> Fast boot: ON with USB disabled = Fast boot. OFF = Fast and hanging boots. ON with USB enabled partially or fully = Same result as OFF.
> 
> I have spent hours messing with the settings and nothing seems to get it to behave like a normal system should. The way it is set up now is; Fast boot with USB disabled - this provides a consistent boot speed. If i need to enter the BIOS i am using the BootSetting utility, i then switch off fastboot and restart. Its a work around that is easy and works. I am of course gutted that i am having this trouble as anyone who buys something new would be.
> 
> Do you happen to know if new bios updates are still going to come out that could fix my problem?
> 
> Just want to add for anyone who might read that by disabling the asmedia controllers my boot speed increased considerably. This gave me a 9 second boot...before i attached my other hard drives which slowed it down.


So I personally have Fast Boot enabled with USB partially enabled. I have my G400 and Microsoft ergo keyboard plugged into the top USB 2.0 ports. I also have bios 1504.

Please try an older bios or try another keyboard and mouse in those ports and see if it makes a difference. The fact that only you seem to be having the issue leads me to believe there's something about that keyboard







Or it is worth trying an older bios.

I don't know when new bios updates will come out, but I imagine they are being worked on. Disabling uneeded controllers will always help out post/boot times.

I would ping Asus support for the hell of it to see if they say anything, but they are most likely going to tell you to try other keyboards as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Alright, well I found out what it was at least. Sucks a little that I have to RMA a part, but out of all the parts to have to RMA I'm glad it is the Mushkin SSD and not the MB. I had it narrowed down to one of the 2. I had some sata laptop hard drives laying around and popped one in. Windows installed right away without a hitch. Put the SSD back in and bam!...nada. Strange thing though is that it passed 3 different HDD tests. Anyways, another slight delay, but glad it's worked out.
> 
> Thanks to those who gave suggestions, it was greatly appreciated MotherFo and MADworld.


Glad you finally found a resolution.







Please +rep accordingly.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> Yup, I tried USB 2.0 ports in the front and back and 3.0 ports in the front and back...nada. It would boot off the flash media in UEFI and windows would start to install, but just never finish. Funny with the firmware on the SSD, it shipped with a more current firmware than what's even on Mushkin's site right now haha. When you go search the forums there you see people commenting on how they received a drive with later firmware than what can currently be downloaded. I think they just need to update their site. In any event, since the firmware was the latest, the drive had to go back.
> 
> Oh well, a little bit longer won't hurt I guess. I'll just use this laptop drive until it gets back.


No offense, but that's why I stick with really reliable SSDs. Intel, Samsung, or Crucial. Mushkins been around for a while with their memory, but I won't trust them ever especially after reading the hell they've put you through.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> Try flashing BIOS version 1708, I know you said it's OS/driver related but a lot of us held of on flashing 1805 because of a number of issues. I did a clean install recently and I'm running 1708 without any issues.


x2 I'm still running 1504 without issue. After reading about everyone else having issues with 1805, I've waited


----------



## rochey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> So I personally have Fast Boot enabled with USB partially enabled. I have my G400 and Microsoft ergo keyboard plugged into the top USB 2.0 ports. I also have bios 1504.
> 
> Please try an older bios or try another keyboard and mouse in those ports and see if it makes a difference. The fact that only you seem to be having the issue leads me to believe there's something about that keyboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or it is worth trying an older bios.
> 
> I don't know when new bios updates will come out, but I imagine they are being worked on. Disabling uneeded controllers will always help out post/boot times.
> 
> I would ping Asus support for the hell of it to see if they say anything, but they are most likely going to tell you to try other keyboards as well.


Sorry i should have mentioned that i had tried another keyboard already and it made no difference unfortunately. My keyboard and mouse are in the top USB 2.0 ports as well. I will try the bios you suggested. Thanks for the support.


----------



## OneGun

Can i plug my Asetek 550lc liquid cooler into the CPU OPT header?I am suppose to disable the fan control on it anyway plus i wanted to plug my Hyperx ram cooler into the cpu fan slot if that is at all possible..Also whats the best way to flash my bios?I don't have a usb flash but i can buy one if needed..I am still on the bios that came with my board VER1504...


----------



## OneGun

O ya can you add me please also?


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Oh and a bonus question, today i removed the gpu for some fan replacement in the case and noticed a transparent sticker over the asus logo on the pch, would i be correct in assuming thats the warranty related thing, or it can/should be removed? Did not find anything about it in a manual tough i might have skipped through some sections...
> 
> Thank you all a lot.


Anyone knows anything about that sticker? It does not bother me, but the heatpipes of my gpu are kinda close to there, I doubt it will melt, but, you know.. I tend to worry too much..


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Anyone knows anything about that sticker? It does not bother me, but the heatpipes of my gpu are kinda close to there, I doubt it will melt, but, you know.. I tend to worry too much..


It's unrelated to warranty. It's just a protective film to protect it from scratches when the board is packed in the box. Go ahead and remove it.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Can i plug my Asetek 550lc liquid cooler into the CPU OPT header?I am suppose to disable the fan control on it anyway plus i wanted to plug my Hyperx ram cooler into the cpu fan slot if that is at all possible..Also whats the best way to flash my bios?I don't have a usb flash but i can buy one if needed..I am still on the bios that came with my board VER1504...


I've read that many have had unreliable results with the CPU_OPT header...some saying it didn't work, some saying it ran at the same speed as the CPU header, and others saying it runs whatever is put on it at full speed. Try it and see what happens. you can also place a splitter on the CPU header and run your memory cooler and 550lc off the same header. You can use active or passing control on the splitter. There are a bunch of them out there.

As for updating the bios, using a thumb drive and updating through the BIOS is the best way. You can do it through the software in windows, but I wouldn't recommend that.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> No offense, but that's why I stick with really reliable SSDs. Intel, Samsung, or Crucial. Mushkins been around for a while with their memory, but I won't trust them ever especially after reading the hell they've put you through.


Yup, it leaves a little bit of a bad taste in my mouth for sure. I've used a lot of mushkin memory over the years and have not had a problem, but this is the first time I've tried one of their SSD's. I don't want to base my opinion of them off this one experience, but it does make me want to smack them upside the head!


----------



## qdrummer21

So the rest of the parts arrived today and I've got them all installed no problems.

I'm having a problem getting the onboard Ethernet to run at full speed. Its only recognizing the link as a 10mbs full duplex connection. If I unplug the cable and go into my other computer it works fine. I've already installed the latest drivers from the Asus website but that had no effect. Suggestions?

EDIT: Never mind I got it working. It was the Ethernet cable. It must have had a bad copper line that was bending back and forth as I moved it from one PC to another. Swapped out the cable to a spare I had and I'm at full speed now.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJeckyl7*
> 
> I've read that many have had unreliable results with the CPU_OPT header...some saying it didn't work, some saying it ran at the same speed as the CPU header, and others saying it runs whatever is put on it at full speed. Try it and see what happens. you can also place a splitter on the CPU header and run your memory cooler and 550lc off the same header. You can use active or passing control on the splitter. There are a bunch of them out there.
> 
> As for updating the bios, using a thumb drive and updating through the BIOS is the best way. You can do it through the software in windows, but I wouldn't recommend that.


Should i just use the latest bios and use the ez flash bios update?
And my Cpu Opt header is at full speed.Nevermind i got the newest bios thank you guys.


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Should i just use the latest bios and use the ez flash bios update?
> And my Cpu Opt header is at full speed.Nevermind i got the newest bios thank you guys.


Yup, unless you read about some kind of major issues with a bios release, you pretty much always want the latest bios. And yes, you want to use the EZ flash in the bios. Glad you got it all set.

In respect to the CPU OPT fan header, since it runs at full speed for you, you can get a passive or actively controlled fan splitter and it will let you control the speed of anything connected to that header.


----------



## saipan

Hi forum, this is my first post on the site. I am very happy with my MB and have had it for about 8 months. I see other people have the fan error on boot up "press F1" problem. No big deal, fan and temps are fine once windows boots up.

How do I OC it though? Just by running "turbo" it goes from 3.4 to 3.6 or so. I would like to get to 4ghz. I am a CM HYPO cpu cooler, no water block. Any advice would be swell.


----------



## glakr

Have my Sabertooth all setup and running in my new build. Loving this MB so far.

I haven't installed the included fans. Getting ready to do some overclocking. Is the fan installation absolutely necessary with this motherboard? Is anybody running a moderate OC without any fans installed or tried it and ran into issues?

Thanks


----------



## MKHunt

New BIOS update out today.


----------



## JayKthnx

new sabertooth owner here. pic is in my sig. I've always loved how sleek the board looks since I first saw it a year ago, but the pictures honestly don't do it justice.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> New BIOS update out today.


ZOMG Hunt give it the test of its life! Mainly if it resolves the sticky multiplier issues


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> ZOMG Hunt give it the test of its life! Mainly if it resolves the sticky multiplier issues


So far: boot is faster. I can switch OC profiles and the multiplier actually switches.

After the flash, first boot prompted F1. I put in my 4.7GHz settings. Got a double boot, feared the worst, opened CPU-Z. 4.7GHz


----------



## Brenton

Looks like new bios is Windows 8 only


----------



## JayKthnx

it's available for w7 on the canadian support site


----------



## OneGun

I just updated in the US.


----------



## p33k

Just recently got this board and love it! Enjoyed all the wealth of information in this thread and I am keeping an eye on all you bios updaters before I flash mine


----------



## DrJeckyl7

New bios in and stable so far. Haven't really noticed any differences so far, but I'll play with it today and see.


----------



## HaZe303

New bios seems to work fine here as well, but is there anyone here who knows how to upgrade the bios with the latest RST, LAN, etc firmwares? Like the the 1805 bios from S-D? Would be nice.

EDIT: Boot is faster with this bios, so I can confirm that claim.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Just recently got this board and love it! Enjoyed all the wealth of information in this thread and I am keeping an eye on all you bios updaters before I flash mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a sharp looking build...very nice and tidy work!


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Just recently got this board and love it! Enjoyed all the wealth of information in this thread and I am keeping an eye on all you bios updaters before I flash mine


My only nitpick is the mismatched fan shrouds on your gfx cards. But that can't really be helped.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That's a sharp looking build...very nice and tidy work!


Thanks. I wish the wires would loosen up at bit so they aren't so stiff looking. Played with them for a while but still stiff as a rock....and said **** it.


----------



## TheAquanox

The more people happy with this board, the more miserable I feel.

I'm currently UNABLE to overclock the thing.

Can't go anywhere above stock settings. I've followed many guides and can't even get Windows to fully start.

I'm using a Dual Fan Kraken x40 + Tuniq X4 Thermal paste. So it's not the heat.

If it wasn't enough, AI Suite doesn't show the Auto Tunning Button anywhere. Instead, there's a "Thermal Monitor" button there. Also, the Suite background is all green... instead of the blue or black everyone else has.

I've spent a crapload of money (for me at least, it is) and you can imagine how frustrated I am right now.

Would anyone help me please?

These are my specs:

Asus Sabertooth Z77
Intel Corei7 3770k
Kraken x40 + Tuniq X4 Thermal Paste.
NZXT Phantom Case with 8 fans. (Just to make clear it's not heat)
Powercolor 7990 Devil 13.
G.Skill Ripjaws Series 4GB 240-Pin 1.5V DDR3 SDRAM 1600MHz (Could this be the problem?)
M4 Corsair 128GB SSD
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
ANTEC 850watts PSU.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAquanox*
> 
> The more people happy with this board, the more miserable I feel.
> 
> I'm currently UNABLE to overclock the thing.
> 
> If it wasn't enough, AI Suite doesn't show the Auto Tunning Button anywhere. Instead, there's a "Thermal Monitor" button there. Also, the Suite background is all green... instead of the blue or black everyone else has.
> 
> Would anyone help me please?
> .


Sorry you feel that way... Uninstall Asus's software and try overclocking via the bios. Did you try the guide here http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards ?


----------



## TheAquanox

HAven't tried that one yet. Thanks for the link.

Although, I REALLY want auto tunning to work on my setup. There must be something I'm doing wrong.

This is the screen i'm getting:










"Thermal Radar" Instead of "Auto Tunning"....

This must be the screen I've hated the most in my decades with PCs right after Windows 98 BSOD.


----------



## p33k

If you want auto tuning... Not much more I can offer...


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAquanox*
> 
> HAven't tried that one yet. Thanks for the link.
> 
> Although, I REALLY want auto tunning to work on my setup. There must be something I'm doing wrong.
> 
> This is the screen i'm getting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Thermal Radar" Instead of "Auto Tunning"....
> 
> This must be the screen I've hated the most in my decades with PCs right after Windows 98 BSOD.


I am pretty certain there is an auto tune in bios? No?

I had g.skill sniper 1.25v at first and since it did not work i tried a bunch of things including the auto overclock in bios.

You should look there.

In my humble opinion if your ai suite is showing only thermal radar then either you did not install the whole suite or something else is wrong there is turbo v evo thingy altough that might not be what you are after.

hope that helps.


----------



## qdrummer21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Thanks. I wish the wires would loosen up at bit so they aren't so stiff looking. Played with them for a while but still stiff as a rock....and said **** it.


Are those the pre-sleeved cables from Corsair? I purchased them with my AX760 and mine are the same way. I must have spent an hour trying to manipulate them so the individual cables would line up better, but they snapped right back into the position they wanted to be in.

Nice clean looking build.









Once I get the OC worked out I'll post up some pictures, hopefully this weekend.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAquanox*
> 
> HAven't tried that one yet. Thanks for the link.
> 
> Although, I REALLY want auto tunning to work on my setup. There must be something I'm doing wrong.
> 
> This is the screen i'm getting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Thermal Radar" Instead of "Auto Tunning"....
> 
> This must be the screen I've hated the most in my decades with PCs right after Windows 98 BSOD.


I can't see the picture. When I tried clean the url a little bit, this what happen:-


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As far as I know, there is no auto tuning for Sabertooth Z77, only manual tuning available (TurboV EVO). You can try install AI Suite from P8Z77 or ROG. I don't know if it will work though.


----------



## TheAquanox

Thank you bro. I had just found out what you've just told me.

I'm gonna try those Apps just in case.

Anyway, I've tried many OC guides and my system keeps terribly unstable, same happened with my older setup but I assumed it was the cooler.

Now I have a heck of a cooler so, from my old stuff, all I still don't upgrade is memory (G Skill Ripjaws 1600Mhz 8GB) and PSU (Antec 850watts)

I'm starting to think those memories could be guilty. What do you think guys?

(I'm thinking of ordering a pair of G.Skill Trident X desktop XMP DDR3 2400)


----------



## JayKthnx

it could honestly be that your chip is a poor overclocker, too. have you ever used it with another mobo and successfully overclocked it?


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qdrummer21*
> 
> Are those the pre-sleeved cables from Corsair? I purchased them with my AX760 and mine are the same way. I must have spent an hour trying to manipulate them so the individual cables would line up better, but they snapped right back into the position they wanted to be in.
> 
> Nice clean looking build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I get the OC worked out I'll post up some pictures, hopefully this weekend.


Looking forward to the pics! but yeah they are the ones from corsair.


----------



## OneGun

Well i found 1 thing in the new bios that doesn't work right on my 3570k.I have it running at 42 in all cores so that works fine.But when i set it back to auto it says turbo ratio target is 38 in left corner which is my stock turbo ratio but when i start up and monitor the speed it is at 36 max turbo.I have tried everything and when i put it back to auto or stock settings it is 36 turbo core.It has only done this since i updated my bios yesterday..Just a heads up..


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Just recently got this board and love it! Enjoyed all the wealth of information in this thread and I am keeping an eye on all you bios updaters before I flash mine


Nice system you got there








How many volts you running on your 3770K @ 4.7Ghz?
And what are your temps like at idle and load with the H100i???


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> Nice system you got there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many volts you running on your 3770K @ 4.7Ghz?
> And what are your temps like at idle and load with the H100i???


Thanks! I am at 1.352v, originally had it at 1.32 but started getting whea errors a few hours in my prime95 and had to keep increasing it. It idles at around 25c and highest on prime was 86c.


----------



## OneGun

I am almost done just waiting to order my second vid next week when i get paid..I also need to wire a lil better but its tough on me cause i only have 1 working arm and trying to zip tie takes alot of patience which i don't have lol.Anyways not bad for a 1 arm build huh?


----------



## vapor matt

I changed my CPU cooling fans to the new Vortex 14's on the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB E Extreme and they move 93cfm but are silent!!!!
Plus the fans are so slim it gives much more air to the fan when against the top GFX card.

I went from this
http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/slifans008_zpsdcd13eba.jpg.html

To this
http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/blackfans003_zps4b29c6b5.jpg.html

Has anyone tried out the new bios yet? does the multi still stick? any improvements, iam on 1708 as 1805 gave me the stuck multi.

Also I like the black fans over the red ones! personal preference of course


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> So far: boot is faster. I can switch OC profiles and the multiplier actually switches.
> 
> *After the flash, first boot prompted F1. I put in my 4.7GHz settings. Got a double boot*, feared the worst, opened CPU-Z. 4.7GHz


Yeah I just flashed my board and had the exact same thing happen. It has only double booted the first time, though...I've restarted a few times since and all is well.


----------



## vapor matt

heres a pic of my temps!

http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/thermalradar_zpsa46e74c7.jpg.html


----------



## JayKthnx

stress test is running smooth at 1.240v
might try to lower it a bit more later on, but this is definitely acceptable for now.


----------



## Deceit

Is there any reason for me to go from 1708 to 1908?


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vapor matt*
> 
> heres a pic of my temps!
> 
> http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/thermalradar_zpsa46e74c7.jpg.html


i for one would not use the thermal rader and as to your temps looks a bit on the high side for being idle . i was looking at your cpu fan's pic's if it was me i would try and turn the cpu cooler around so you are drawing air in from the back of the case if possible.looking at it any heat coming from those cards are just going to be draw into the cpu cooler:thumb:


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> i for one would not use the thermal rader and as to your temps looks a bit on the high side for being idle . i was looking at your cpu fan's pic's if it was me i would try and turn the cpu cooler around so you are drawing air in from the back of the case if possible.looking at it any heat coming from those cards are just going to be draw into the cpu cooler:thumb:


If that is high what are mine then



Maybe my ambient temp is a bit high,
But under the hood are two 200 mm exhaust, 2x200mm intake, 140 mm noctua exhaust, noctua p12 120 mm on hdd cage blowing on the gtx 580 and noctua nf-f12 for the cpu so honestly i don't get it


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> My only nitpick is the mismatched fan shrouds on your gfx cards. But that can't really be helped.


Yeah it bothers me to but I can't justify selling it just to buy a matching one.


----------



## qdrummer21

I've got everything together now, and the CPU OC where I can live with it. Time to load up some apps and start enjoying it.


----------



## MKHunt

Yesterday I was working on ram OC (which means TONS of hard power offs) and my multiplier has not moved one bit from where I set it on this new bios.


----------



## Lesiunta

Any one of you boys tried pushing the FSB on their Dominator Platinums.
Currently @ 4.7GHz stable thinking whether there is any benefit to pushing it beyond norm on the 2400MHz CAS9 chips.


----------



## MKHunt

When I pushed AFSB, I did see a very slight memory bandwidth improvement but it came at the cost of PCIE performance.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qdrummer21*
> 
> I've got everything together now, and the CPU OC where I can live with it. Time to load up some apps and start enjoying it.


I really like your set up and the colors displayed. Those are nicely done.

I still think you need a bigger window for your case, still nice build you have there. Suits just well!


----------



## Therealriley

Hi all, this is my first post.
I found the website after reading through on mybadomen's NZXT build which is awesome and inspiring.
I have long long wanted to build a custom themed pc (had the same idea for past 10 years!) and have gotten a bit behind the times with all the specs. I wonder if anyone can help?

I think i have found the motherboard i want (Asus Sabertooth Z77 Intel® Z77 ATX ). I have currys/pc world UK vouchers and the board is £179.99. I know this is intel and can take 3rd/2nd gen cpu's. Im just confused on which one to go for. I wont have alot of money and may have to look for a second hand I3 proccessor, maybe new depending on price (atleast for now, i will upgrade again later but need a running pc now). Im just unsure what to go for as they mostly seem to offer similar specs. I just wondered if anyone else had an I3 with this m/board and what would you suggest i use?

Im trying to build the pc into something a bit special to make a custom case (i may do a build log here if all goes to plan) this i will work out when i can get hold of one but i plan to use an ATX size case and move the slot load dvd drives, memory card reader, new front power/reset buttons, usb sockets, maybe a fan controller and place these in a seperate smaller case above. Leaving everything else in the main case with hidden extenders (it makes sense in my head i just dont want to give any spoilers until i found what im after). I can sort out everthing when i get down to it but for now i need a pc thats running.
I have a philips freevents lx2000 that the onboard graphics have gone so im unsure if i can salvage any parts from that other than the hard drive?
Any ideas?

Well its nice to join here, im sure il have many more questions in time to come.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qdrummer21*
> 
> I've got everything together now, and the CPU OC where I can live with it. Time to load up some apps and start enjoying it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build, sir!


----------



## Deceit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Any one of you boys tried pushing the FSB on their Dominator Platinums.
> Currently @ 4.7GHz stable thinking whether there is any benefit to pushing it beyond norm on the 2400MHz CAS9 chips.


You should give it a go and post the results! Are you running the Dominator Platinums? 2133 CAS9 sticks?


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Well i found 1 thing in the new bios that doesn't work right on my 3570k.I have it running at 42 in all cores so that works fine.But when i set it back to auto it says turbo ratio target is 38 in left corner which is my stock turbo ratio but when i start up and monitor the speed it is at 36 max turbo.I have tried everything and when i put it back to auto or stock settings it is 36 turbo core.It has only done this since i updated my bios yesterday..Just a heads up..


I cant get mine to change either. It say 4.8ghz in the bios but I am stuck turbo at 4.7ghz. Guessing in the dark could this be related to either a bios issue or a software (Asus Suite). I have had this problem ever since 1805.

I thought maybe it had something to do with actually using LLC but I don't think so. I am still on the 2600k and this board made it a beast. I use a + offset and I have been screaming this cpu since 2011. One tough SOB especially overclocking. Since I am in So Cal I throttle it down when summer hits.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> I cant get mine to change either. It say 4.8ghz in the bios but I am stuck turbo at 4.7ghz. Guessing in the dark could this be related to either a bios issue or a software (Asus Suite). I have had this problem ever since 1805.
> 
> I thought maybe it had something to do with actually using LLC but I don't think so. I am still on the 2600k and this board made it a beast. I use a + offset and I have been screaming this cpu since 2011. One tough SOB especially overclocking. Since I am in So Cal I throttle it down when summer hits.


I am in OC and i just got my computer.Good advice on no major OC during the summer i didn't think about that.O ya nice raider emblem!!!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> If that is high what are mine then
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe my ambient temp is a bit high,
> But under the hood are two 200 mm exhaust, 2x200mm intake, 140 mm noctua exhaust, noctua p12 120 mm on hdd cage blowing on the gtx 580 and noctua nf-f12 for the cpu so honestly i don't get it


You gotta remember we all live in different areas.I am in so call where its always hot so mine runs hotter.If you walk outside and there is snow then your computer should run cooler lol.


----------



## Lesiunta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> You should give it a go and post the results! Are you running the Dominator Platinums? 2133 CAS9 sticks?


Nay, sir! I got these mofos CMD16GX3M4A2400C9
Tried one time booting at 2600MHz but they weren't stable. I'm thinking IMC on the Haswell will handle that speed just fine.


----------



## Arizonian

Hi motherboard gurus,

One questions that might not be related. I have a new Dell U2713HM that has four 3.0 USB ports. However my system isn't recognizing the USB drive 'Patriot Xpress 3.0' nor my MS Camera I plugged. in.

I've followed the stanard steps by Dell with reconnect the upstream cables and reboot computer.

All my USB 3.0 ports on my tower are functional. Obviously it could be the new monitor but something tells me I'm missing something.

Anything in the BIOS

extra

that needs to be enabled for this when all my tower USB ports work?

Thanks guys.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Hi motherboard gurus,
> 
> One questions that might not be related. I have a new Dell U2713HM that has four 3.0 USB ports. However my system isn't recognizing the USB drive 'Patriot Xpress 3.0' nor my MS Camera I plugged. in.
> 
> I've followed the stanard steps by Dell with reconnect the upstream cables and reboot computer.
> 
> All my USB 3.0 ports on my tower are functional. Obviously it could be the new monitor but something tells me I'm missing something.
> 
> Anything in the BIOS
> 
> extra
> 
> that needs to be enabled for this when all my tower USB ports work?
> 
> Thanks guys.


have you made sure to install both the intel and asmedia usb 3.0 drivers? depending on the specific set of ports you've plugged your devices into, both drivers are integral to proper operation and identification of devices plugged into them.
are your camera and stick recognized if you plug them directly into the same port the monitor is in on your mobo?
also, it appears that the advertisement of 4 usb3 ports on the monitor is not quite true. according to the tech reps here, only the bottom ports are 3.0 and the side ports are 2.0.


----------



## saipan

yeah mine is 30C also......


----------



## qdrummer21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> Any one of you boys tried pushing the FSB on their Dominator Platinums.
> Currently @ 4.7GHz stable thinking whether there is any benefit to pushing it beyond norm on the 2400MHz CAS9 chips.


I haven't tried to put an OC on my Dominator Platinums. From what I have read I won't have a noticeable performance improvement, so I scratched it off my list.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> have you made sure to install both the intel and asmedia usb 3.0 drivers? depending on the specific set of ports you've plugged your devices into, both drivers are integral to proper operation and identification of devices plugged into them.
> are your camera and stick recognized if you plug them directly into the same port the monitor is in on your mobo?
> also, it appears that the advertisement of 4 usb3 ports on the monitor is not quite true. according to the tech reps here, only the bottom ports are 3.0 and the side ports are 2.0.


Yep, it could be false advertising or double check these settings: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309 Double check the xhci setting. Try the different options.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Yep, it could be false advertising or double check these settings: http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4590_30#post_19160309 Double check the xhci setting. Try the different options.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> have you made sure to install both the intel and asmedia usb 3.0 drivers? depending on the specific set of ports you've plugged your devices into, both drivers are integral to proper operation and identification of devices plugged into them.
> are your camera and stick recognized if you plug them directly into the same port the monitor is in on your mobo?
> also, it appears that the advertisement of 4 usb3 ports on the monitor is not quite true. according to the tech reps here, only the bottom ports are 3.0 and the side ports are 2.0.


Thanks for the 3.0 bottom 2.0 side USB correction. I did read that in one of the reviews as well.

I'm starting to think it may not be motherboard related. Will look into BIOS and ASMedia when I have some time tomorrow.

I'm connected via D-DVI for 1440p.

My keyboard which is connected to USB hubs on motherboard 3.0 USB port works on G710+.

Well off to work I go. Thanks guys.









Edit: Yes the camera and thumb drive work on the motherboard USB 2.0 and 3.0 USB ports behind tower as well as tower ports up top.


----------



## NitrousX

Has anyone here updated to the new 1908 bios yet? If so, have you encountered any problems? Also, has the stuck multiplier-upon-boot-problem been fixed in this new revision?

Thanks!

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_30


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Has anyone here updated to the new 1908 bios yet? If so, have you encountered any problems? Also, has the stuck multiplier-upon-boot-problem been fixed in this new revision?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_30


Literalleh 5 pages back. Protip: search the thread for "1908"









http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/5590


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Has anyone here updated to the new 1908 bios yet? If so, have you encountered any problems? Also, has the stuck multiplier-upon-boot-problem been fixed in this new revision?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_30


All good so far with my board.


----------



## vapor matt

Quote:


> i for one would not use the thermal rader and as to your temps looks a bit on the high side for being idle . i was looking at your cpu fan's pic's if it was me i would try and turn the cpu cooler around so you are drawing air in from the back of the case if possible.looking at it any heat coming from those cards are just going to be draw into the cpu cooler:thumb:


well I find thermal radar matches core temp very well for temp's, also I didn't think my temps were high, where do you live in a fridge?


----------



## JayKthnx

several members have reported that 1908 seems to have fixed the sticky multi problem, decreased boot time, and generally been working well.
I've also been running it with no issues to report.
feel free to scan about the last 5 pages just to make sure I didn't miss anything though.


----------



## vapor matt

Updated bios to the new 1908 and no problems so far, first boot was a dual boot then after that its fine.

will report back if I find anything quirky with the new bios.


----------



## OneGun

Only problem i found was when i put everything back to auto it reports in left corner it will hit 38 stock turbo ratio but it really only goes to 36 turbo ratio..Only since new bios..


----------



## HaZe303

Dont know if its been reported here yet, but here is a modded 1908 bios for all Z77 and other intel based motherboards...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244232/asus-asrock-bioss-with-updated-raid-orom


----------



## NitrousX

Just updated to the latest 1908 bios earlier this afternoon. The sticky multiplier upon boot has not been fixed for me.


----------



## Z Overlord

_SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1908
*1.Fixed Power On By RTC function failed.
2.Fixed F8 function is abnormal under fastboot*
3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us_

can someone explain these to me?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> _SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 1908
> *1.Fixed Power On By RTC function failed.
> 2.Fixed F8 function is abnormal under fastboot*
> 3.Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us_
> 
> can someone explain these to me?


Google RTC function
Real Time Clocks | RTCs,, basically you can set in your bios that you want your pc to turn on and off at certian times. so if you not at home for like a week or something and you want to access your pc but still save electricity you can set it so your pc comes on at 06:00 and turn off at 18:00

Fixed F8 function is abnormal under fastboot, when Fastboot is enabled the F8 function didnt work, now it does.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Does anyone know of a hard plastic sli bridge that will work for the sabertooth as it has the triple slot spacing needs special sli but i want hard plastic so that i may make a custom sli connector


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Does anyone know of a hard plastic sli bridge that will work for the sabertooth as it has the triple slot spacing needs special sli but i want hard plastic so that i may make a custom sli connector


I have an Asrock 7cm bridge coming in the mail soon. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## Cyber Locc

where did you buy it and what does it look like.

Also is there a 3 slot sli connector that would work with the spacing so I could cut it down.

What im trying to do is here 
I know that sli only needs a one way but I want that evga sticker on there already have the plate made up and all just need the connectors


----------



## rochey

Hard to see the board with my camera and the lights. Best cable management I could do without the back of the case not fitting.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> where did you buy it and what does it look like.
> 
> Also is there a 3 slot sli connector that would work with the spacing so I could cut it down.
> 
> What im trying to do is here
> I know that sli only needs a one way but I want that evga sticker on there already have the plate made up and all just need the connectors


Not sure. It would need to be a weird 3-way though since a 3-way setup usually is single spaced.


----------



## darkphantom

dude there is no info on what they fixed when they repaired my mobo...is there usually a place where they tell you what was fixed? I just got a paper with "Fixed"


----------



## MerCh93

Hi everyone, i recently bought my first lot of computer hardware to build my first gaming rig. Long behold it wont post, fans wont spin at all. Ive tried only plugging in the essentials (CPU, CPU Fan, Ram and Graphics Card) out side of the case and nothing happens. Thing is it hasnt booted once and i misplaced my CMOS jumper cap. Looked everywhere for it and nope, i do recall taking it off with the usb header prong protectors. Cant find any old hdds or cd drives to recycle a cap from them.

Just wondering if this is "most" likely the cause for it not to be posting at all, no beeping from the speaker, not a single fan turning, not even the psu's fan will spin but i know the psu is working because i tested that on another computer as well as the ram in a working computer.

Specs: Sabertooth z77
Intel i7 3770K with stock cooler
Corsair Vengeance 2x 8GB Ram
Gigabyte Radeon 7970 Overclocked 3GB
Coolermaster Silent Pro Hybrid 850W Fully Modular PSU
Samsung 840 Pro Series 128gb SSD
Coolermaster HAF X Case

Lastly if anyone has any guides on how to install the Sabertooth z77 into a HAF X which includes front panel headers being connected could you link me please, i think im having trouble with that aswell.
Sorry for the newbieness, i think i could of done a bit more research picked something a bit simpler for my first actual build. Thanks again =)


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerCh93*
> 
> Hi everyone, i recently bought my first lot of computer hardware to build my first gaming rig. Long behold it wont post, fans wont spin at all. Ive tried only plugging in the essentials (CPU, CPU Fan, Ram and Graphics Card) out side of the case and nothing happens. Thing is it hasnt booted once and i misplaced my CMOS jumper cap. Looked everywhere for it and nope, i do recall taking it off with the usb header prong protectors. Cant find any old hdds or cd drives to recycle a cap from them.
> 
> Just wondering if this is "most" likely the cause for it not to be posting at all, no beeping from the speaker, not a single fan turning, not even the psu's fan will spin but i know the psu is working because i tested that on another computer as well as the ram in a working computer.
> 
> Specs: Sabertooth z77
> Intel i7 3770K with stock cooler
> Corsair Vengeance 2x 8GB Ram
> Gigabyte Radeon 7970 Overclocked 3GB
> Coolermaster Silent Pro Hybrid 850W Fully Modular PSU
> Samsung 840 Pro Series 128gb SSD
> Coolermaster HAF X Case
> 
> Lastly if anyone has any guides on how to install the Sabertooth z77 into a HAF X which includes front panel headers being connected could you link me please, i think im having trouble with that aswell.
> Sorry for the newbieness, i think i could of done a bit more research picked something a bit simpler for my first actual build. Thanks again =)


do you have the 24 pin mobo connector, as well as the 8 pin cpu connector installed on your motherboard in their appropriate locations? that would be the most likely scenario I can think of as to why you're not getting any post at all. easiest way to check that is to plug in your connectors, turn on your psu, and look for the green led at the bottom of the motherboard to come on indicating that power is standing by to power up. take a picture of your mobo hooked up outside of the case just to ease our attempts at troubleshooting.

if you absolutely can't find the cmos jumper, you can get a replacement ones here or here. some extras also come in this toolkit, which is a great set to invest in for both initial set up of your system, as well as periodic maintenance.

as for the installation of the motherboard into your case, I've found that the case manual (which is available here under the download section if you don't have it) is extremely informative as to where to install your mobo standoffs for atx mobos such as the sabertooth z77, and has a detailed list of all the included front panel connectors for ease of identification. between that and pages 2-20 through 2-24 of your sabertooth user guide, it should be easy to install all your connectors as needed.


----------



## friskiest

Added another 680, new ram and more to my build.
The Sabertooth looks amazing in the TJ11


----------



## Deceit

The TJ11 is absolutely gorgeous. I wish they made an all aluminum Raven-2, since I really like the aesthetics/exterior of this case but it's still OK for me.

Quick question, probably ******ed, but the Z77 Sabertooth supports boot from USB, yes? Thank you.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MerCh93*
> 
> Hi everyone, i recently bought my first lot of computer hardware to build my first gaming rig. Long behold it wont post, fans wont spin at all. Ive tried only plugging in the essentials (CPU, CPU Fan, Ram and Graphics Card) out side of the case and nothing happens. Thing is it hasnt booted once and i misplaced my CMOS jumper cap. Looked everywhere for it and nope, i do recall taking it off with the usb header prong protectors. Cant find any old hdds or cd drives to recycle a cap from them.
> 
> Just wondering if this is "most" likely the cause for it not to be posting at all, no beeping from the speaker, not a single fan turning, not even the psu's fan will spin but i know the psu is working because i tested that on another computer as well as the ram in a working computer.
> 
> Specs: Sabertooth z77
> Intel i7 3770K with stock cooler
> Corsair Vengeance 2x 8GB Ram
> Gigabyte Radeon 7970 Overclocked 3GB
> Coolermaster Silent Pro Hybrid 850W Fully Modular PSU
> Samsung 840 Pro Series 128gb SSD
> Coolermaster HAF X Case
> 
> Lastly if anyone has any guides on how to install the Sabertooth z77 into a HAF X which includes front panel headers being connected could you link me please, i think im having trouble with that aswell.
> Sorry for the newbieness, i think i could of done a bit more research picked something a bit simpler for my first actual build. Thanks again =)


Double check the 24 pin and 8 pin as stated and then double check the buttons that run from the case to the lower right corner of the motherboard. Double check they are on the correct pins and the correct order.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deceit*
> 
> The TJ11 is absolutely gorgeous. I wish they made an all aluminum Raven-2, since I really like the aesthetics/exterior of this case but it's still OK for me.
> 
> Quick question, probably ******ed, but the Z77 Sabertooth supports boot from USB, yes? Thank you.


Yes it can boot from USB.


----------



## Solonowarion

Whats the most volts some of you have run through this thing? I have been running a 24/7 5 ghz at 1.528 volts for a few months now. Running prime for 12 hours now and hottest core is 73. oh yeah its an i5 3570k.

When I bump up the volts trying for 5.1 windows boots without aero and some other features. Is this just too many volts for my sabertooth?


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Whats the most volts some of you have run through this thing? I have been running a 24/7 5 ghz at 1.528 volts for a few months now. Running prime for 12 hours now and hottest core is 73. oh yeah its an i5 3570k.
> 
> When I bump up the volts trying for 5.1 windows boots without aero and some other features. Is this just too many volts for my sabertooth?


Holy hell is that high. Not too many volts for the mobo, but way overkill for the 3570k. I've seen people run up to 5.2gHz on 1.28v stable. Really there's no reason to run more than 4.8 on a 3570k for daily use anyways. All you're really doing is cooking your cpu and reducing its life span with that kind of overclock setup. I'd suggest at least trying to get to a stable overclock with no more than 1.4v max. With that sort of configuration, you can expect your processor to last at least a couple years until you're ready to upgrade your chipset.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> Holy hell is that high. Not too many volts for the mobo, but way overkill for the 3570k. I've seen people run up to 5.2gHz on 1.28v stable. Really there's no reason to run more than 4.8 on a 3570k for daily use anyways. All you're really doing is cooking your cpu and reducing its life span with that kind of overclock setup. I'd suggest at least trying to get to a stable overclock with no more than 1.4v max. With that sort of configuration, you can expect your processor to last at least a couple years until you're ready to upgrade your chipset.


Fair enough. I know ther is no reason to just playing around. Eventually I will revert back to my 4.7. Just right now at those volts I dont go above 55 deg gaming and doing regular stuff so thats why I want to push it further.

Cool your from japan! I went to school there for 6 months. What a great place.


----------



## snef

Hi
another in the Sabertooth Z77 club
this is my project for now

"Icy Blue Angel"
will be my wife's rig

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0037_zps0998bf66.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0035_zps79a96729.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0032_zpsf46ebfcf.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0038-Copy_zpsed36ea2b.jpg.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Very Nice ! Great job on the paint work.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> another in the Sabertooth Z77 club
> this is my project for now
> 
> "Icy Blue Angel"
> will be my wife's rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0037_zps0998bf66.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0035_zps79a96729.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0032_zpsf46ebfcf.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0038-Copy_zpsed36ea2b.jpg.html


good job on the painting. always like to see a fellow painted sabertooth.
what's the case it's going into?(what's the colour of the case also)


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> good job on the painting. always like to see a fellow painted sabertooth.
> what's the case it's going into?(what's the colour of the case also)


this rig will be in a White Caselabs SM8
white rad, white Crystal link fiting and blueberry Mayhems Pastel coolant


----------



## dusters16

Just thought I would post a picture of my setup so far. Going to change the "Pull" (top - CM R4) fans out for AF120's. The R4's aren't cooperating with Corsair Link.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/dusters_dark_knight/media/WP_20130320_010_zps2dd4d67b.jpg.html


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> Hi
> another in the Sabertooth Z77 club
> this is my project for now
> 
> "Icy Blue Angel"
> will be my wife's rig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0037_zps0998bf66.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0035_zps79a96729.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0032_zpsf46ebfcf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0038-Copy_zpsed36ea2b.jpg.html


That looks great!
















I'd love to see pictures when you got it all done.


----------



## chillidog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> Just thought I would post a picture of my setup so far. Going to change the "Pull" (top - CM R4) fans out for AF120's. The R4's aren't cooperating with Corsair Link.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/dusters_dark_knight/media/WP_20130320_010_zps2dd4d67b.jpg.html


is it my eye sight that's going is this picture off your case up side down?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> is it my eye sight that's going is this picture off your case up side down?


Just a reversed case that alowws a mobo to be installed that way.


----------



## ionstorm66

Has anyone painted the thermal armor? My buddy wants his OD Green, and idk if I should vinyl it or paint it.

Edit: never mind, my phone was only showing 300 pages before I posted. After I posted I could see the rest of the pages.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ionstorm66*
> 
> Has anyone painted the thermal armor? My buddy wants his OD Green, and idk if I should vinyl it or paint it.
> 
> Edit: never mind, my phone was only showing 300 pages before I posted. After I posted I could see the rest of the pages.


def. paint it...
I airbrushed mine a pearl blue w/ a bit of white.


----------



## sonarctica

Is it so that i have to reinstall windows when i do a bios update? Cause i went from 1805 to 1908 and when i restarted and intalled the update, it says that bootmgs is missing.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Just a reversed case that alows a mobo to be installed that way.


This is an Antec LanBoy Air and I did the reverse motherboard flip on it. This is not even one of the stock modular configurations. I had to flip all the vertical bars and re-rivet all the rivets. This way the h100i could be put in a push/pull on the top of the case in exhaust mode


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> This is an Antec LanBoy Air and I did the reverse motherboard flip on it. This is not even one of the stock modular configurations. I had to flip all the vertical bars and re-rivet all the rivets. This way the h100i could be put in a push/pull on the top of the case in exhaust mode


Hmm I wonder If I could do that with my 600 t


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Hmm I wonder If I could do that with my 600 t


The 600T looks very Asymmetrical so I do not think it will work properly, or without some heavy modification. For one, the Door Latches, do they have the needed slots/cutouts on the upper edge on the opposite of the top piece? I can not tell without having the case in front of me. Also, how is the motherboard tray assembled into the case? Again, without the case in front of me, i do not know. If anyone else is unable to 100% guarantee these then I will go to MicroCenter/Frys and check out a floor model.

The Antec LanBoy Air is mostly Symmetrical, except the how the motherboard plate's rails are attached. There are two horizontal rails that are adjustable for if the user wants the psu top mounted or bottom mounted w/ the mobo then being either top or bottom mounted too. These two horizontal rails connect to the rear corner vertical post and the post just forward to it. These to posts have special slots and screw holes that hold the horizontal rails in securely in place. the two opposite rails do not have these slots and screw holes. Long story short, I had to essentially flip the case upside-down, but kept the top and bottom pieces in place. All the posts are actually upside-down now, and because all the rivet holes were not the same on the top as they were on the bottom, I had to drill new holes in the posts and re-rivet everything.

My whole thing was that I wanted the Corsair H100i to be in a Push + Pull configuration and if the motherboard was right side up in the normal config, then the fans and or rad for the h100i would hit the armor plating and or the RAM and it would not work. Even in a one sided fan setup (push or pull) some people said that one would have to get specific motherboards that did not have high VRM/RAM.

Once I am done with Stage 3 (acrylic windows), then I will post a completed build log. For now enjoy a picture of the tear down.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/dus...rk LBA/IMAG0944_BURST002_zps25abdae4.jpg.html


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Is it so that i have to reinstall windows when i do a bios update? Cause i went from 1805 to 1908 and when i restarted and intalled the update, it says that bootmgs is missing.


Shouldn't.

Double check that your Primary boot drive didn't change and that your SATA mode didn't change to something different. That's my best guess.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> The 600T looks very Asymmetrical so I do not think it will work properly, or without some heavy modification. For one, the Door Latches, do they have the needed slots/cutouts on the upper edge on the opposite of the top piece? I can not tell without having the case in front of me. Also, how is the motherboard tray assembled into the case? Again, without the case in front of me, i do not know. If anyone else is unable to 100% guarantee these then I will go to MicroCenter/Frys and check out a floor model.
> 
> The Antec LanBoy Air is mostly Symmetrical, except the how the motherboard plate's rails are attached. There are two horizontal rails that are adjustable for if the user wants the psu top mounted or bottom mounted w/ the mobo then being either top or bottom mounted too. These two horizontal rails connect to the rear corner vertical post and the post just forward to it. These to posts have special slots and screw holes that hold the horizontal rails in securely in place. the two opposite rails do not have these slots and screw holes. Long story short, I had to essentially flip the case upside-down, but kept the top and bottom pieces in place. All the posts are actually upside-down now, and because all the rivet holes were not the same on the top as they were on the bottom, I had to drill new holes in the posts and re-rivet everything.
> 
> My whole thing was that I wanted the Corsair H100i to be in a Push + Pull configuration and if the motherboard was right side up in the normal config, then the fans and or rad for the h100i would hit the armor plating and or the RAM and it would not work. Even in a one sided fan setup (push or pull) some people said that one would have to get specific motherboards that did not have high VRM/RAM.
> 
> Once I am done with Stage 3 (acrylic windows), then I will post a completed build log. For now enjoy a picture of the tear down.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/dus...rk LBA/IMAG0944_BURST002_zps25abdae4.jpg.html


Thanks for the info. You really had to tear that thing down, I looked at it and I am not going to bother with it. I will just get a CL case next build,


----------



## sonarctica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Shouldn't.
> 
> Double check that your Primary boot drive didn't change and that your SATA mode didn't change to something different. That's my best guess.


Primary boot drive has not changed, and even if i set it as default boot drive, i still get "bootmgr is missing"

But for me to get windows starting without having to resolve to windows reinstall, i have to enter bios, the page that shows the hdd priority list, press f10 to save and then restart. That is what i have to do in order to make windows boot normally.

And one other thing, if this may just be a bios bug, and since i cannot contact asus at all about this since both the phone support is useless and the site wont work to tell them about this, is it possible for me to revert to 1 or 2 previous bios FW's?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Primary boot drive has not changed, and even if i set it as default boot drive, i still get "bootmgr is missing"
> 
> But for me to get windows starting without having to resolve to windows reinstall, i have to enter bios, the page that shows the hdd priority list, press f10 to save and then restart. That is what i have to do in order to make windows boot normally.
> 
> And one other thing, if this may just be a bios bug, and since i cannot contact asus at all about this since both the phone support is useless and the site wont work to tell them about this, is it possible for me to revert to 1 or 2 previous bios FW's?


Are you sure you didn't accidentally get the bootmgr installed on one of the other drives?

Yes, just EZ Flash and put an older version on a Fat32 flash drive.


----------



## sonarctica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Are you sure you didn't accidentally get the bootmgr installed on one of the other drives?
> 
> Yes, just EZ Flash and put an older version on a Fat32 flash drive.


How can bootmgr be transferred on an other hdd by updating the bios? :S

Ok.


----------



## sakerfalcon

So, here's another Asus RMA/CS story:

I had to send my second board back to Asus because dead BIOS chip. On trying to fidget that plastic cpu socket cover back on, I accidentlaly broke and squashed four pins. Outrageously shameful of me for a person with steady hands, I know.



Now, I know full well that what should have been a 5 minute fix (take off armor, replace chip) now would cost $125 as quoted by CS rep. I said fine (being entirely truthful), and shipped the board off. A $365 mobo was better than a dead $240 mobo. A couple weeks later, I received an email:



... and the board came back totally repaired, without me paying a dime. I recognize it as the very same motherboard I sent out - because it had the same dried paste pattern on the CPU retainer clip. What?



Did I just get lucky?


----------



## grunion

^^ Contrary to popular belief Asus are not total dicks.

Rarely is there a charge for skt repair...unless it's totally mangled and beyond repair.


----------



## qdrummer21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Primary boot drive has not changed, and even if i set it as default boot drive, i still get "bootmgr is missing"
> 
> But for me to get windows starting without having to resolve to windows reinstall, i have to enter bios, the page that shows the hdd priority list, press f10 to save and then restart. That is what i have to do in order to make windows boot normally.
> 
> And one other thing, if this may just be a bios bug, and since i cannot contact asus at all about this since both the phone support is useless and the site wont work to tell them about this, is it possible for me to revert to 1 or 2 previous bios FW's?


Out of curiosity have you tried setting the boot order in BIOS to only include your primary Windows drive?


----------



## lokanata

i'm new to this forum and just upgrade from my old rig to ivy bridge rig, anyone have tried OC sabertooth to 5GHZ? cause my oc only top in 4,7GHZ, maybe i have bad batch with the procie


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> How can bootmgr be transferred on an other hdd by updating the bios? :S
> 
> Ok.


It can't, but from what I've experienced in the past. Having two hard drives hooked up when I installed Windows, the bootmgr somehow got put on my secondary drive even though my OS was on the 1st. So now when I install Windows, I always unplug any other drives in the system so it only sees the one.

Updating the bios would simply change the bios to defaults and possibly the drive order/boot order.

I'm out of ideas past that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> ^^ Contrary to popular belief Asus are not total dicks.
> 
> Rarely is there a charge for skt repair...unless it's totally mangled and beyond repair.


X2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lokanata*
> 
> i'm new to this forum and just upgrade from my old rig to ivy bridge rig, anyone have tried OC sabertooth to 5GHZ? cause my oc only top in 4,7GHZ, maybe i have bad batch with the procie


No 4.7 seems very good for ivy. Take a look around and you'll see that. Most people can't get to 5 unless they have a heavy duty h20 setup or have de-lidded their chip.


----------



## Inacoma79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*


am I just tripping or does the smoke effect in your account image spell "Fo" XD


----------



## DrJeckyl7

Alright, some more work done on "MrHyde"...here ya go...


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> am I just tripping or does the smoke effect in your account image spell "Fo" XD


Indeed it does sir.


----------



## ChromePixels

Add me to the Club


----------



## OneGun

Just finished wiring and painting my Ram fan white.


----------



## ErectorSett

hey guys. i just built my first system using the Sabertooth z77. I got Kingston hyper X Beast RAM cl10 1866mhz, and its running at 1600mhz, timings are 11-11-11-28 1T. From what i've read I can change the voltage to 1.65 in the BIOS and redirect the timings to the timings on the box and it should work. Or enable XMP? I was just wanting to ask if this sounds right to anyone on here. Any help is appreciated. Also if anyone has any comments on the RAM and if you think its good or not so good that is welcome too. Thanks

System: (No overclocking as of yet)
Sabertooth Z77
Intel I7 3770k
Corsair h100i
Ulta 850 watt modular PSU
Asus 660ti Direct CU 2gb OC
Kingston Hyper X Beast CL10
Kingston 120gb SSD
Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200rpm HDD


----------



## OneGun

That memory is setup for 3rd gen intel so just set to XMP in bios and you will be good.I believe it should run at 1.5volts which is what intel recommends.How many GBs and sticks do you have?


----------



## ChromePixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErectorSett*
> 
> hey guys. i just built my first system using the Sabertooth z77. I got Kingston hyper X Beast RAM cl10 1866mhz, and its running at 1600mhz, timings are 11-11-11-28 1T. From what i've read I can change the voltage to 1.65 in the BIOS and redirect the timings to the timings on the box and it should work. Or enable XMP? I was just wanting to ask if this sounds right to anyone on here. Any help is appreciated. Also if anyone has any comments on the RAM and if you think its good or not so good that is welcome too. Thanks
> 
> System: (No overclocking as of yet)
> Sabertooth Z77
> Intel I7 3770k
> Corsair h100i
> Ulta 850 watt modular PSU
> Asus 660ti Direct CU 2gb OC
> Kingston Hyper X Beast CL10
> Kingston 120gb SSD
> Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7200rpm HDD


Go to your Bios when start computer Press *F2* and go to cpu options and set profile to X.M.P and restart


----------



## vapor matt

Decided to water cool the machine, had enough of screaming fans I want some silence in my life, rads and fans are outside, using dual XSPC RX360 rads 6 x corsair fans D5 pump koolance 380i
CPU block, 2 X Aqua Computer AquagraFX - GTX 680 Water Blocks for sli.

pics

http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/watercooling015_zps1fbf305d.jpg.html

outside rads

http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/watercooling2004_zpsf6bebb12.jpg.html

Silence is golden! no more screaming fans


----------



## samuraix20

Hi. I have a minor but very annoying problem with this board.

The top USB 3.0 ports I know for sure are the ASMEDIA ones on the back are incredibly iffy. I recently ripped out a hard drive from a Seagate expansive drive and put it in this enclosure:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynex-3-5-Serial-SATA-Hard-Drive-Enclosure-USB-3-0-/390569055379?pt=US_Drive_Enclosures_Docks&hash=item5aefbad493

For some reason, I'm getting USB 2.0 (or worst?) speeds going around 40 MB/s~ reads and writes... but if I use the bottom USB 3.0 port, I'm getting the reasonable speeds of 140~ MB/s reads and writes (test were done using CyrstalMark seq test)

Here's the twist: my Patriot Xpress 3.0 USB flash drive and my Hitachi Touro Portable HDD worked perfectly fine with the top USB / ASMEDIA 3.0 ports.

I want to believe it could the enclosure having issues but I don't have an extra USB 3.0 HDD enclosure to test and the current enclosure is capable of doing USB 3.0 speeds if using the intel / bottom ones so it can't be broken.

I'm going to use Revo Uninstaller and completely wipe out the ASMEDIA drivers and reinstall. But does anyone have this sort of problem? Any recommended solution? I've gone into the BIOS and into the USB options, but I see nothing wrong with it but I don't mind to double check or try different ways.


----------



## ErectorSett

I have 2x8 for a total of 16gb at the moment. I have read that with the Windows version I run (Windows Home Edition) the system doesn't read over 16gb anyway, unless I get Professional edition, which reads to 192gb I believe ( I know the highest is 32gb, just what I read somewhere. That might be wrong) I'm also thinking of returning the gfx card i got, the Asus 660 ti DCII OC. The temps on it seem to go higher then I like and sometimes It doesnt feel as smooth as it should. I did a small stress test on it with 2xAA and it got up to 70 degrees, made me nervous so I backed out of it. Any suggestions on what gfx cards I could run better with, or if this would improve with an SLI setup?


----------



## vikingbuilt

Corsair 500R^



HAF XB^

Add me in to the club X 2


----------



## vikingbuilt

My HAF XB Corsair 80I is giving me false readings in Voltage and Temp in AI Suite II -- PIssing me off. On my Corsair 500R I am getting No errors at all in AI Suite with my Thermal Take Water 2.0 Extreme -- Please tell me someone else is experiencing Voltage and Temp drops with Corsair H80i's and H100i's (I think it is the 2 softwares conflicting with each other) I think Corsair Link program is cancelling one another out. I also have a P8Z77V-pro board with a H100i that does the exact same thing with the Corsair Link program running. Asus needs to fix this **** I have tried going to ASUS already and now I am communicating with corporate to figure out what is causing this. I am sure I have narrowed it down. I have tried everything switch power supplies, re-install windows 8. I am very much not happy with AI-Suite II and Thermal Radar being about 10-15degree's off on the CPU as well when REAL TEMP reports otherwise. ---Anyways I LOVE the sabertooth Z77 .. I am keep the temps down pretty much below 50degrees C even when gaming. I am also going to try 2 660 TI's in my Corsair one and grab another 7850 to crossfire my HAF XB.

I am also trying to locate MEI Windows 8 - 8.0 if anyone has it or know's how to check the FIRMWARE version of the sabertooth Z77 of the MEI chipset it would be helpfull or to findout why I cannot locate 8.0 because it is requesting it when it denies my update process due to me having 8.1 already installed. Wierd? Any clues?


----------



## kizwan

As far as I know, the CPU temp reading in AI Suite II/Thermal Radar is not the actual CPU temperature but the reading is taken from the temp sensor near the CPU assembly/socket. Usually just uninstall AI Suite II/Thermal Radar & just use Real Temp or any other 3rd party monitoring utilities to monitor voltage & temperature. BTW, are you only running Real Temp & AI Suite II/Thermal Radar when it read false voltage & temp?


----------



## vikingbuilt

Even if I just use AI Suite II alone it gives me errors. Its a funny issue with AI Suite II. Real Temp usually doesn't give me any errors but seems like the corsair link program does. I've tried all combinations exiting out of etc.etc. I do tend to use alot of corsair power supplies too. I got Corsair 750XM in the other sabertooth with the h80i and I just put a kingwin 850w lazer in the v-pro replacing a 750TX Corsair and it still does it so that rules out potential powersupplies actually dropping voltage. And I've tried my gold rated super nova 750 external on it as well and it still does it. Has anyone experienced this or is it only me?


----------



## kizwan

You're not alone actually. It just false reading. Everyone I know uninstall AI Suite II/Thermal Radar & use other monitoring software instead, e.g. HWiNFO, Open Hardware Monitor, etc.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErectorSett*
> 
> I have 2x8 for a total of 16gb at the moment. I have read that with the Windows version I run (Windows Home Edition) the system doesn't read over 16gb anyway, unless I get Professional edition, which reads to 192gb I believe ( I know the highest is 32gb, just what I read somewhere. That might be wrong) I'm also thinking of returning the gfx card i got, the Asus 660 ti DCII OC. The temps on it seem to go higher then I like and sometimes It doesnt feel as smooth as it should. I did a small stress test on it with 2xAA and it got up to 70 degrees, made me nervous so I backed out of it. Any suggestions on what gfx cards I could run better with, or if this would improve with an SLI setup?


yes, running professional or above will increase your os's max ram to 192gb. as you have stated though, this board, along with any other z77 boards I can think of, has a cap of 32gb dual channel ddr3, typically around 1866mHz. honestly, you won't really need more than 8gb unless you're doing a lot of video processing, 3d modelling or high volume file compression.

assuming the 660 works the same as my 670, the drops in framerates are probably closely associated with the temps you're getting. once you get above 70°c or over a certain amount of power draw, the card will throttle itself by 7mHz on the core clock per degree. since this is so common though, it's actually very easy to fix, assuming that you don't find your gpu fan(s) to be too loud as they are. through either evga precision-x or msi afterburner, you can set up a custom fan curve that is more aggresive than stock to help alleviate the thermal issue. currently, I can run my card at 100% load in unigine heaven, 3dmark or even folding and I'll max out at 60°c. if I were you, I'd try going that route first before deciding to sli. yes, an sli will increase your performance, but there a lot of factors as to just how much. try to get capped out on your current card before you drop in another $240.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraix20*
> 
> Hi. I have a minor but very annoying problem with this board.
> 
> The top USB 3.0 ports I know for sure are the ASMEDIA ones on the back are incredibly iffy. I recently ripped out a hard drive from a Seagate expansive drive and put it in this enclosure:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynex-3-5-Serial-SATA-Hard-Drive-Enclosure-USB-3-0-/390569055379?pt=US_Drive_Enclosures_Docks&hash=item5aefbad493
> 
> For some reason, I'm getting USB 2.0 (or worst?) speeds going around 40 MB/s~ reads and writes... but if I use the bottom USB 3.0 port, I'm getting the reasonable speeds of 140~ MB/s reads and writes (test were done using CyrstalMark seq test)
> 
> Here's the twist: my Patriot Xpress 3.0 USB flash drive and my Hitachi Touro Portable HDD worked perfectly fine with the top USB / ASMEDIA 3.0 ports.
> 
> I want to believe it could the enclosure having issues but I don't have an extra USB 3.0 HDD enclosure to test and the current enclosure is capable of doing USB 3.0 speeds if using the intel / bottom ones so it can't be broken.
> 
> I'm going to use Revo Uninstaller and completely wipe out the ASMEDIA drivers and reinstall. But does anyone have this sort of problem? Any recommended solution? I've gone into the BIOS and into the USB options, but I see nothing wrong with it but I don't mind to double check or try different ways.


Do you know if that Seagate is a 5400 rpm drive? / green? Could just be the drive. I believe very top is usb 2. Blue ports below are intel and the blue ports below that are asmedia.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vikingbuilt*
> 
> My HAF XB Corsair 80I is giving me false readings in Voltage and Temp in AI Suite II -- PIssing me off. On my Corsair 500R I am getting No errors at all in AI Suite with my Thermal Take Water 2.0 Extreme -- Please tell me someone else is experiencing Voltage and Temp drops with Corsair H80i's and H100i's (I think it is the 2 softwares conflicting with each other) I think Corsair Link program is cancelling one another out. I also have a P8Z77V-pro board with a H100i that does the exact same thing with the Corsair Link program running. Asus needs to fix this **** I have tried going to ASUS already and now I am communicating with corporate to figure out what is causing this. I am sure I have narrowed it down. I have tried everything switch power supplies, re-install windows 8. I am very much not happy with AI-Suite II and Thermal Radar being about 10-15degree's off on the CPU as well when REAL TEMP reports otherwise. ---Anyways I LOVE the sabertooth Z77 .. I am keep the temps down pretty much below 50degrees C even when gaming. I am also going to try 2 660 TI's in my Corsair one and grab another 7850 to crossfire my HAF XB.
> 
> I am also trying to locate MEI Windows 8 - 8.0 if anyone has it or know's how to check the FIRMWARE version of the sabertooth Z77 of the MEI chipset it would be helpfull or to findout why I cannot locate 8.0 because it is requesting it when it denies my update process due to me having 8.1 already installed. Wierd? Any clues?


MEI version is mentioned in the advanced page of the bios.

Also check if your h80i or h100i has a firmware update.


----------



## samuraix20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Do you know if that Seagate is a 5400 rpm drive? / green? Could just be the drive. I believe very top is usb 2. Blue ports below are intel and the blue ports below that are asmedia.


Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, I should have specify the location of the USB 3.0. I thought saying top USB 3.0 would note as the one below the USB 2.0 ports.

Oh, so the very bottom USB 3.0 are actually AsMedia? Are you sure? I just disable the AsMedia drivers from Device Manager and the top USB 3.0 ports (the ones below the USB 2.0 ports) and nothing is responding to anything that I plug into it such as my USB 2.0 external HDD and flash drives both 2.0 and 3.0.

But you're also saying that it could be the drive; the drive I ripped out is a 5900 RPM drive. Is the drive speed really a factor? Are the Asmedia drivers just not wanting to run full USB 3.0 because they detect a 5900 RPM drive? I don't know, the Intel USB 3.0 ports (the very bottom ports) don't seem to care as I noted in the CrystalMarkSpeed test.


----------



## Detoyminador

I've got a major issue with my PCIE-X-1 slot.
I recently upgraded my i7-2700K CPU to a 3770K which I de-lided and has been running flawless and cool for a few days now.
Yesterday I go to boot my machine and I get 1 long beep followed by 3 short beeps, red VGA light was lit up knowing it was a VGA error. I finally got it running after a few boots.
I went into the bios and noticed PCIE-X-1 slot is running at 4x, was 16x before. Double checked in windows and it's running at 4x in PCIe 3.
When I do boot the PC now the VGA red light will stay on for a couple of seconds, never noticed this before.

What have I done to fry PCIE-X-1 lane???
My PC specs are listed.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraix20*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Yeah, I should have specify the location of the USB 3.0. I thought saying top USB 3.0 would note as the one below the USB 2.0 ports.
> 
> Oh, so the very bottom USB 3.0 are actually AsMedia? Are you sure? I just disable the AsMedia drivers from Device Manager and the top USB 3.0 ports (the ones below the USB 2.0 ports) and nothing is responding to anything that I plug into it such as my USB 2.0 external HDD and flash drives both 2.0 and 3.0.
> 
> But you're also saying that it could be the drive; the drive I ripped out is a 5900 RPM drive. Is the drive speed really a factor? Are the Asmedia drivers just not wanting to run full USB 3.0 because they detect a 5900 RPM drive? I don't know, the Intel USB 3.0 ports (the very bottom ports) don't seem to care as I noted in the CrystalMarkSpeed test.


The Blue USB ports next to the LAN port are the intel ports, including the USB flashback port.

The Blue USB ports next to the RED eSATA ports are the Asmedia ports

Try enabling the USB 3.0 boost software in the Asus AI suite. With the drive connected select turbo. I have an external powered USB 3 drive connected to the Asmedia port and get around 145MB/s transfers of large files. With a western digital 2.5" portable USB3 I get slightly slower at around 130MB/s


----------



## n7plus1

Hey guys, i guess im joining the club, picked one of these up in January and im noticing a pattern with an issue. Wanted to get some input from you guys before contacting ASUS about this and to see if this is a common problem

When i first got it installed, i noticed that if the machine loses power, when booting for the first time since, BIOS is reset..which would lead me to believe the CMOS battery is dead...although i havent even owned the board for half a year, is this possible? Not sure how long it may have sat in store? (picked it up at micro center)

Now, as of recent, i noticed that if the same thing happens above, instead of booting to a cleared BIOS, it does not boot at all. I have to move the CMOS jumper to clear it and AS SOON AS I REMOVE THE JUMPER, the system powers itself on. NOTE - I havent even put the jumper back properly yet...i then proceed to finagle it back on, with the machine sitting at the boot screen, ready to go, waiting for my attention to reset the date, my OC, etc...

Is this just a simple CMOS battery issue that maybe ASUS cheaped out on? A common problem?

rig specs are as follows:

3770k - cooled by a CM 212 hyper evo
2x EVGA GTX670 4GB FTW's
Rosewill 1kW psu
128gb sammy 840 pro


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraix20*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Yeah, I should have specify the location of the USB 3.0. I thought saying top USB 3.0 would note as the one below the USB 2.0 ports.
> 
> Oh, so the very bottom USB 3.0 are actually AsMedia? Are you sure? I just disable the AsMedia drivers from Device Manager and the top USB 3.0 ports (the ones below the USB 2.0 ports) and nothing is responding to anything that I plug into it such as my USB 2.0 external HDD and flash drives both 2.0 and 3.0.
> 
> But you're also saying that it could be the drive; the drive I ripped out is a 5900 RPM drive. Is the drive speed really a factor? Are the Asmedia drivers just not wanting to run full USB 3.0 because they detect a 5900 RPM drive? I don't know, the Intel USB 3.0 ports (the very bottom ports) don't seem to care as I noted in the CrystalMarkSpeed test.


Jaku corrected me. Sorry for the confusion.

I imagine this is the reason: Intel has a better chipset and driver combination for USB 3, thus better speeds. A 7200rpm drive would out perform the 5900, but since you are noticing differences simply on where you plug, that's probably it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Blue USB ports next to the LAN port are the intel ports, including the USB flashback port.
> 
> The Blue USB ports next to the RED eSATA ports are the Asmedia ports
> 
> Try enabling the USB 3.0 boost software in the Asus AI suite. With the drive connected select turbo. I have an external powered USB 3 drive connected to the Asmedia port and get around 145MB/s transfers of large files. With a western digital 2.5" portable USB3 I get slightly slower at around 130MB/s


Thank you for the correction and a good suggestion.

I haven't seen any new Asmedia drivers out on the sabertooth site, and the Asmedia website doesn't allow you download newer drivers directly.


----------



## Dissolution187

I have a z77 too!! Amazing baord.


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> I've got a major issue with my PCIE-X-1 slot.
> I recently upgraded my i7-2700K CPU to a 3770K which I de-lided and has been running flawless and cool for a few days now.
> Yesterday I go to boot my machine and I get 1 long beep followed by 3 short beeps, red VGA light was lit up knowing it was a VGA error. I finally got it running after a few boots.
> I went into the bios and noticed PCIE-X-1 slot is running at 4x, was 16x before. Double checked in windows and it's running at 4x in PCIe 3.
> When I do boot the PC now the VGA red light will stay on for a couple of seconds, never noticed this before.
> 
> What have I done to fry PCIE-X-1 lane???
> My PC specs are listed.


Anybody???


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> Anybody???


Try this.
unplug power from PSU, then press your on button to discharge the mother board.
take your Gcard out, Take your Ram out.
Reset your Bios, then plug power back in and power on, let the board beep away at the missing ram, then turn it off.
unplug power and discharge your board again.
reconnect ram and Gcard again,
plug power back in and boot.


----------



## MrCollins

I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on what might be causing me a problem.

Here is my rig:

3570k
sabertooth z77 bios 1908, set to RAID mode.
wd black 1tb
intel 520 60gb ssd
corsair 800 psu
crucial 16gb 8X2 1600 DIMM
Windows 7 64 bit

I updated my bios a few weeks from what it came with (12XX) to 18XX. The BIOS installation appeared successful, and the system gave no indication otherwise. However, when I tried to install a Windows update, the installation hung and would not install. When I cancelled the install, and attempted to restart the computer the system would hang at the "shutting down" screen. I let it go for 12 hours once, without it shutting down. I also noticed that my SSD caching was not working at that moment. At the time I was using a Corsair Force 3 64GB as my cache drive and a WD Blue 1TB as my primary.

Figuring the BIOS update did not work, I reverted to the original bios successfully. However, that did not fix my update/driver installation problems.

I decided to backup my files and do a complete format and fresh reinstall. I double checked to make sure the BIOS was set to RAID, and went ahead and reinstalled a fresh version of W7 64 bit, which installed successfully. I then proceeded to install the drivers on the CD that came with my board. When I got to the Intel RST, the driver installation would hang. I would then be confronted with the never ending "Shutting down" screen. I then proceeded to reinstall W7 several times. Each time, W7 would install successfully, but a driver installation would hang. I tried different driver installation orders (there are roughly 7 drivers on the CD). Regardless of the order, as I get to the 2nd or 3rd from last driver, the installation would hang. To be clear, it would be a different driver installation that would hang each time, but always one of the last drivers to be installed.

At this point, I was thinking HDD so I got WD Black 1 TB. I installed that with my Corsair Force 3 SSD and alas had the same problems. I then updated to the most recent BIOS 1908, and tried again. Same problems.

At this point, I shifted to thinking SSD. I did a reinstall with just my WD Black 1TB HDD. Windows 7, the mobo drivers, all the windows update, steam and my games all installed successfully. I then added an Intel 520 series 60gb SSD. I went to start Borderlands 2, and when Steam did the "preparing to run for the first time" installation of various Microsoft things --- the installation hung. When I went to shut down, the system would hung on "shutting down" just as before.

I then unplugged the power to the SSD, restarted the system, and tried running Borderlands 2 again. The pre-game installations and the game itself started up and ran just fine.

When my SSD is installed, Intel RST gives no indication of a problem. I am caching in Enhanced mode, and there are no error messages.

In short, my problem appears to be that updates and installations hang when I am SSD caching. With just my HDD running, there are no problems. Thus, my problem clearly arises with the presence of the SSD in the system, but I cannot identify the cause.

Thoughts?

Sorry for the long post, and your help is appreciated in advance.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrCollins*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on what might be causing me a problem.
> 
> Here is my rig:
> 
> 3570k
> sabertooth z77 bios 1908, set to RAID mode.
> wd black 1tb
> intel 520 60gb ssd
> corsair 800 psu
> crucial 16gb 8X2 1600 DIMM
> Windows 7 64 bit
> 
> I updated my bios a few weeks from what it came with (12XX) to 18XX. The BIOS installation appeared successful, and the system gave no indication otherwise. However, when I tried to install a Windows update, the installation hung and would not install. When I cancelled the install, and attempted to restart the computer the system would hang at the "shutting down" screen. I let it go for 12 hours once, without it shutting down. I also noticed that my SSD caching was not working at that moment. At the time I was using a Corsair Force 3 64GB as my cache drive and a WD Blue 1TB as my primary.
> 
> Figuring the BIOS update did not work, I reverted to the original bios successfully. However, that did not fix my update/driver installation problems.
> 
> I decided to backup my files and do a complete format and fresh reinstall. I double checked to make sure the BIOS was set to RAID, and went ahead and reinstalled a fresh version of W7 64 bit, which installed successfully. I then proceeded to install the drivers on the CD that came with my board. When I got to the Intel RST, the driver installation would hang. I would then be confronted with the never ending "Shutting down" screen. I then proceeded to reinstall W7 several times. Each time, W7 would install successfully, but a driver installation would hang. I tried different driver installation orders (there are roughly 7 drivers on the CD). Regardless of the order, as I get to the 2nd or 3rd from last driver, the installation would hang. To be clear, it would be a different driver installation that would hang each time, but always one of the last drivers to be installed.
> 
> At this point, I was thinking HDD so I got WD Black 1 TB. I installed that with my Corsair Force 3 SSD and alas had the same problems. I then updated to the most recent BIOS 1908, and tried again. Same problems.
> 
> At this point, I shifted to thinking SSD. I did a reinstall with just my WD Black 1TB HDD. Windows 7, the mobo drivers, all the windows update, steam and my games all installed successfully. I then added an Intel 520 series 60gb SSD. I went to start Borderlands 2, and when Steam did the "preparing to run for the first time" installation of various Microsoft things --- the installation hung. When I went to shut down, the system would hung on "shutting down" just as before.
> 
> I then unplugged the power to the SSD, restarted the system, and tried running Borderlands 2 again. The pre-game installations and the game itself started up and ran just fine.
> 
> When my SSD is installed, Intel RST gives no indication of a problem. I am caching in Enhanced mode, and there are no error messages.
> 
> In short, my problem appears to be that updates and installations hang when I am SSD caching. With just my HDD running, there are no problems. Thus, my problem clearly arises with the presence of the SSD in the system, but I cannot identify the cause.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Sorry for the long post, and your help is appreciated in advance.


You say you then added the Intel 520. Is that being used as a cache drive alongside the Corsair one or by itself?

Which Sata ports are you plugged into on the motherboard? If you are using RST it should be the two Intel ones.

Edit: Have you tried different SATA cables as well?

Edit 2: Did you verify Smart Response tech was enabled in the bios after updating?


----------



## MrCollins

Thanks for your quick response.

I was only running the Intel 520 as my cache drive, the Corsair is now sitting in a box. Presently, of course, the Intel 520 is disconnected so I can do some gaming!

I will verify the cables when I get home from work - to clear though, you are saying both the HDD and the SDD should be on the Intel ports.

I will also try different cables and check the Smart Response tech.


----------



## jktmas

well im not getting my psu replaced by xfx, not because they wont, but because i have done some slight modifications to it, so it might get rejected, and im over 700w so getting another 750w is not ideal. i am hoping to buy a 1000w platinum from a friend, or a 850w online


----------



## shamanik1320

Thought I'd add my Sabertooth Z77 rig to the mix. I found out though that that Sabertooth's armor, and my Corsair 400r, there isn't enough room for the Corsair H100i's radiator to fit perfectly, so it's screwed in ****-eyed. And without pull fans on the top I can get 3 screws in, with the pull fans in, I get two, but it feels plenty firm so it's not a big deal.


----------



## OneGun

How come when i set up my fan profiles they don't stay that way after i turn off my computer?They look like they do but i have to hit apply and then all my fans will speed up.. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## saipan

try reloading ai suite


----------



## PeachYogurt

Quick question to my fellow Sabertooth bros --

is it normal for all 4 LED indicator lights to go on during boot? Mine come on and go away within a second. I can't remember if my pc did that when I first built it a month ago or if this is something new. The only stay on for a second and go away and never return.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeachYogurt*
> 
> Quick question to my fellow Sabertooth bros --
> 
> is it normal for all 4 LED indicator lights to go on during boot? Mine come on and go away within a second. I can't remember if my pc did that when I first built it a month ago or if this is something new. The only stay on for a second and go away and never return.


I believe it is normal. Mine have always done it i think its just a quick check and confirmation that the components are present. Maybe there is a setting to turn it off?


----------



## Dissolution187

Question for all you fine people. How do I turn off the auto-voltage on this board so that my cpu is not getting more voltage than what I set it at?

Thank you!


----------



## snef

already in the club but give you an update of the white sabertooth

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0022_zps6829b6f2.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0014_zps1de5dc05.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0002_zpsbb6e88f2.jpg.html


----------



## euphoria4949

Hello Sabertooth'ers,

I was wondering if some of you could offer me some advice on overclocking an 3570k with my Sabertooth, as I'm new to OC'ing

Right, I currently have it OC'ed to 4.6Ghz 46x100 @1.280v using Offset +***, can't remember the exact offset but I will post it when I restart the rig. Temps are averaging 75c under Prime95, sometimes peaking at 80c for a second.
I read somewhere in a thread a while back (Might have been this one) about adjusting the Sabertooths "LLC" for higher OC's, but I can't find the post now and I have NO idea what LLC is or what it does nor can I find it in the BIOS.
Also is there anything I could/should have enabled/disabled when OC'ing with this MoBo or anything advice that might allow me to drop the voltage a bit???

I would really appreciate any help or advice.
Thanks to all


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dissolution187*
> 
> Question for all you fine people. How do I turn off the auto-voltage on this board so that my cpu is not getting more voltage than what I set it at?
> 
> Thank you!


to do this.. find out your needed voltage for your overclock and then you gotta try the offset settings... if you
dont overclock start with a minus offset of maybe... - 0.30? boot to windows and find out what vcore it has
during load and if it stayst stable with prime

if you dont know how to use prime, browse OCN or the web for some guides. after you know..
for example you need 1.28v for 4ghz.. then you go to bios /uefi ai tweaker an set
minus 0.25v offset.. now boot up to windows.. run a stress test and see if your vcore is the one
you desired.. if not go to uefi again and change,.

the bigger the minus offset is.. the lower your vcore will be.


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Try this.
> unplug power from PSU, then press your on button to discharge the mother board.
> take your Gcard out, Take your Ram out.
> Reset your Bios, then plug power back in and power on, let the board beep away at the missing ram, then turn it off.
> unplug power and discharge your board again.
> reconnect ram and Gcard again,
> plug power back in and boot.


Thanks for that and sorry about the delayed response, I had to wait for my brother-in-law to do the work for me.
First off, ran through the procedure you said to try and yes saw 16x on the PCIEX1 lane, rebooted and 4x is now showing.
Retried with memory in different slots, graphics card in PCIEX slot 2 which ran at 8x not 16x which I thought it would.
Tried previous bios with no difference, still 4x.
is my board FUBAR???


----------



## shamanik1320

Does anyone else get random voltage pop-ups and stuff about fan speeds from their ai suite? I had a Sabertooth Z77 before and I ended up bending the pins and it never gave false readings or alarms. But I had to get a replacement when I broke this one, and for one, the product was missing some of the screws and mounting hardware, luckily for me this was my second one and I didn't need it, but kinda hard to believe they inspect each one so carefully when **** is missing from it, but also I keep getting voltage alarms from my Ai suite, but my board is running stable and fine overclocked, play and record games all day without crashing. So I guess I should bark at Asus to put in a disable option in their Ai Suite? Like once every hour to 3 hours I'd estimate is how often something will pop up, it's just stupid because I know it's bad sensors.

Plus anyone else notice the latest bios (1908) and the one before it (1805) broke Virtulogix MVP, if I enable it, it won't start loading windows, it'll just reset, turn it off, runs fine.


----------



## saipan

never had a problem with the board, I don't update bios.


----------



## shamanik1320

Well, the update only messed with virtulogix which is literally the most useless thing I've ever seen lauded as to help games run better, but at least I could tinker with it for fun, but never found a use for it, so not a big deal.

The problem I have with false notifications is with the sensors though, it does it on any bios update, but nothing is ever actually wrong, it just gets annoying seeing it pop up in the corner for the screen for a few seconds. I updated my last board with all updates and it never did it so apparently they just didn't check things as thoroughly as they're supposed to. Which is a shame because who's going to rma a board to get rid of notifications? I found a way to turn off the monitoring though, it's under the Ai Suite settings so no big deal.

Anyone out there not find Lucidlogix MVP to not be a complete waste of time? I even had to redo my whole windows installation to get it to work and now they disable it lol.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamanik1320*
> 
> Does anyone else get random voltage pop-ups and stuff about fan speeds from their ai suite? I had a Sabertooth Z77 before and I ended up bending the pins and it never gave false readings or alarms. But I had to get a replacement when I broke this one, and for one, the product was missing some of the screws and mounting hardware, luckily for me this was my second one and I didn't need it, but kinda hard to believe they inspect each one so carefully when **** is missing from it, but also I keep getting voltage alarms from my Ai suite, but my board is running stable and fine overclocked, play and record games all day without crashing. So I guess I should bark at Asus to put in a disable option in their Ai Suite? Like once every hour to 3 hours I'd estimate is how often something will pop up, it's just stupid because I know it's bad sensors.
> 
> Plus anyone else notice the latest bios (1908) and the one before it (1805) broke Virtulogix MVP, if I enable it, it won't start loading windows, it'll just reset, turn it off, runs fine.


Yeah that has been talked about here before a fair bit. It happens when you are running two temperature reporting programs together, like thermal radar and Open hardware monitor for example.

Virtue MVP was working fine for me in the last BIOS but with the latest one it works fine in Far Cry 3 but won't in BF3 so I just disabled it. It does not really do much for high end cards anyway. Supposedly for lower end cards there may be some benefit to it.


----------



## euphoria4949

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shamanik1320*
> 
> Well, the update only messed with virtulogix which is literally the most useless thing I've ever seen lauded as to help games run better, but at least I could tinker with it for fun, but never found a use for it, so not a big deal.
> 
> The problem I have with false notifications is with the sensors though, it does it on any bios update, but nothing is ever actually wrong, it just gets annoying seeing it pop up in the corner for the screen for a few seconds. I updated my last board with all updates and it never did it so apparently they just didn't check things as thoroughly as they're supposed to. Which is a shame because who's going to rma a board to get rid of notifications? I found a way to turn off the monitoring though, it's under the Ai Suite settings so no big deal.
> 
> Anyone out there not find Lucidlogix MVP to not be a complete waste of time? I even had to redo my whole windows installation to get it to work and now they disable it lol.


Yeah I've had the random popups as well, funny enough they only started a few days ago. Mine was telling me my 12v was at 1v then a few minutes later it said 48v. Then it started with my 5v, telling me it was 0v or over 9000v lol.

Also I had a pretty big issue with my board when I first got it. I bought it for my new build, but I had to quickly put it all together just to make sure everything was working because we was emigrating abroad just a couple of weeks later. Once we were settled in our new place I set up the PC, all was well apart from every time I unplugged the rig from the mains the BIOS reset. I tried everything with no results, so it narrowed it down to a faulty CMOS battery, well so I thought. After stripping the rig and removing the MoBo's armor, I discovered that the CMOS battery holder wasn't even soldered to the board!! Seriously no s**t, the battery and the holder was just wedged under the armor, but as soon as I removed it, it fell out lol. I checked the solders on the board to see if maybe they had snapped or something, but nope, they were perfect and untouched.


----------



## OneGun

What is Virtue MVP and do i have it?Should i use it?Will it help with my 7950 boost crossfire setup?


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What is Virtue MVP and do i have it?Should i use it?Will it help with my 7950 boost crossfire setup?


READ ............. YES NO AND NO








HERE
\/
http://www.futurelooks.com/lucid-mvp-no-love-nvidia-sli-and-amd-crossfirex/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1256265/lucid-virtu-mvp-questions/20#post_17230357
http://www.overclock.net/t/1226856/vortez-lucid-virtu-mvp-advantage-of-mvp-start-to-surface/140


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> GARBAGE YES NO AND NO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.futurelooks.com/lucid-mvp-no-love-nvidia-sli-and-amd-crossfirex/


Cool thank you.Glad i didn't try and waste my time using it.Thanx for fast reply as i was about to get it lol..


----------



## smex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Cool thank you.Glad i didn't try and waste my time using it.Thanx for fast reply as i was about to get it lol..


np.. why do you need more juice.. benchmarking?!


----------



## OneGun

No but i have a 1080p monitor right now cause i don't get my new 1440p for another 2 weeks.So i play BF3 and Crysis3 with Vsync off and i get tearing cause with BF3 i am at 110+ fps.So i thought it would help with that.


----------



## smex

is there such a thing as adaptive vsync like nvidia has in its drvers?!
maybe this software could do something with its own forced vsync
but i cant tell you anything about how it will behave on yo rig :/


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smex*
> 
> is there such a thing as adaptive vsync like nvidia has in its drvers?!
> maybe this software could do something with its own forced vsync
> but i cant tell you anything about how it will behave on yo rig :/


Even though there is a lil screen tearing i would rather have that then input lag.I tried RadeonPros dynamnic vsync and it just seems smoother with all vsync off.Could just be a mind F#%k for me but it seems better lol..Well i am getting either a 27in 1440p or a 30in 1600p monitor in 2 weeks so it prolly won't be able to go much over 60fps after that..


----------



## Lesiunta

You guys see the next iteration of the Sabertooth?

http://wccftech.com/asus-z87-motherboards-unveiled-maximus-vi-extreme-maximus-vi-hero-z87-sabertooth-z87-gryphoon-pictured/

I don't know about you guys but not much awe factor from the design of these mobos.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lesiunta*
> 
> You guys see the next iteration of the Sabertooth?
> 
> http://wccftech.com/asus-z87-motherboards-unveiled-maximus-vi-extreme-maximus-vi-hero-z87-sabertooth-z87-gryphoon-pictured/
> 
> I don't know about you guys but not much awe factor from the design of these mobos.


Sabertooth looks exactly the same lol.

I'm not a big fan of the black and yellow. I prefer the blue they had on their other models.

With Haswell around 10% better, I'm content with my Ivy for now.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Sabertooth looks exactly the same lol.
> 
> I'm not a big fan of the black and yellow. I prefer the blue they had on their other models.
> 
> With Haswell around 10% better, I'm content with my Ivy for now.


Yeah, with AMD not putting up much of a fight we can expect Intel to be slowing raw CPU power increases somewhat for the foreseeable future.


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> already in the club but give you an update of the white sabertooth
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0022_zps6829b6f2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0019_zps219571cf.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0014_zps1de5dc05.jpg.html
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/snef/media/Icy Blue Angel/IMG_0002_zpsbb6e88f2.jpg.html


nice looking good








I sort of went down the same road in a way.
i'm just leak testing now. i'm also glad to see other fellow
painted sabertoothers.
whats your temps like?


----------



## Shadowline2553

Hiya, guess I belong here with my Sabertooth Z77. Haven't modded it, nor do I intend to mod it, though I did add Fan Expert 2 to it's software so that I could shut those little mini fans up unless it gets hot.


----------



## snef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> nice looking good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sort of went down the same road in a way.
> i'm just leak testing now. i'm also glad to see other fellow
> painted sabertoothers.
> whats your temps like?


wow really nice setup

im really suprise with my temp

at stock setting (overclock later this week)
ambient 25c

after one hour of Prime95 small fft
highest temp of all core is 50c

now i hope its a good cpu for overclocking
i will post temp and OC result


----------



## LuckyNumber13

I was wondering. I got my Gtx Titan on there
but i'm not sure if I should put the newest bios version
for the sabertooth. does anyone know if it will be beneficial
to upgrade my bios.?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I was wondering. I got my Gtx Titan on there
> but i'm not sure if I should put the newest bios version
> for the sabertooth. does anyone know if it will be beneficial
> to upgrade my bios.?


yes, you will notice a slight improvement .


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> I was wondering. I got my Gtx Titan on there
> but i'm not sure if I should put the newest bios version
> for the sabertooth. does anyone know if it will be beneficial
> to upgrade my bios.?


I'm running the latest bios with a Titan also, don't really see any noticeable "benefit" but it did not cause any issues either.


----------



## hckedbyrssians

Hello greetings. I believe my pci ex slot was damaged and possible metal touching inside slot causing the mobo to not post, If I mess with the pci e slot I can get it to post which makes me think if I remove it completely wand make sure no metal is touching I would solve my post problem for good. How would I go about removing the slot. Brute force?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hckedbyrssians*
> 
> Hello greetings. I believe my pci ex slot was damaged and possible metal touching inside slot causing the mobo to not post, If I mess with the pci e slot I can get it to post which makes me think if I remove it completely wand make sure no metal is touching I would solve my post problem for good. How would I go about removing the slot. Brute force?


Why don't you RMA your board? Why do you want void warranty?


----------



## hckedbyrssians

It's a long story but I got stuck in Mexico for a year and have had so many prob with my build. I'm ready to chuck it into the pacific. Can you help me remove it in a way I don't damage the board. Pretty over warranty at this point


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hckedbyrssians*
> 
> It's a long story but I got stuck in Mexico for a year and have had so many prob with my build. I'm ready to chuck it into the pacific. Can you help me remove it in a way I don't damage the board. Pretty over warranty at this point


Verify it is not the pci slot covers to the left shorting the board.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hckedbyrssians*
> 
> It's a long story but I got stuck in Mexico for a year and have had so many prob with my build. I'm ready to chuck it into the pacific. Can you help me remove it in a way I don't damage the board. Pretty over warranty at this point


I'm pretty sure you need unsolder the slot. Can you check the slot using magnifying glass, see if any metal make contact with the pins?


----------



## spidey81

I thought the board carried a 5 year warranty. Its only been out for a year so why would it be out of warranty?


----------



## HENDOGG99

I just bought one of these coupled into my first build. I have not turned the system on yet as I am waiting for my GTX 660TI to come in. I have a question. I installed this board into a HAF 932 Advanced case. It fit the case fine and the screw holes matched up with one exception, the open space on the back of the case right where the CPU is does not quite align with the board, is this something I should concern myself with? I didn't even notice it until I went to install the bracket on my H100I cooler. I actually had to remove the mother board to put the bracket on and then reinstall in the case. Also is it possible to route my pump wires running from my h100i cooler inside the TUF armour. It looks kind of silly with wires running on top of the saber tooth emblem on the card.

Thanks!

Also please add me to the club. Once I get the system up and running I will post some pictures of the build. This is what I'm working with:

ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and Four Fans-1x 230mm front RED LED fan, 1x 140mm rear fan, 1x 230mm top fan, and 1x 230mm side fan

CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i Water Cooler

CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10B

SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD250BW 2.5" 250GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Western Digital Caviar Green WD15EZRX 1.50 TB 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K

Rosewill Xtreme Series RX850-S-B 850W Continuous @40°C ,80 PLUS Certified, ATX12V v2.2 & EPS12V v2.91, SLI Ready CrossFire Ready, Active PFC "Compatible with Core i7, i5" Power Supply


----------



## Pury

Hello guys, im new to the forum, i was googling about my motherboard a bit and i found this forum, can anyone tell if you guys have any kind of lockup or freezing when playing battlefield bad company 2?
My Gaming rig is not complete yet but here i leave you the components list:
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Intel Core i7 3770k
Corsair Vengeance red 8gb 1866mhz
SSD Corsair Neutron GTX 240gb
HDD Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 rpm 64mb cache
Corsair Hydro series H100i
Logitech Illuminated Keyboard wired
Logitech G9X Gaming mouse
Logitech G35 Gaming Surround Headsets
Monitor Benq XL2420T
Case CM Storm Stryker
No GPU card
Meanwhile i save up some money, im playing game with the integrated graphics intel hd4000, its better than nothing but im having issues with battlefield bad company 2, while playing it just freezes or locks up, and it wont respond to any keyboard command like ctrl+alt+delete, nothing, i have to press the reset button or force the shutdown sometimes. I have searched about the issue on internet and it is a known issue from EA/Dice games that affects a bit of gamers with apparently having msi afterburner and or for onboard realtek audio device, i dont have msi afterburner since i dont have any gpu card yet and i tested the game with the onboard audio device disabled in the bios, just using the logitech g35 headsets, they are usb though and it still crashes, i have tried many things and there still many things to try but perhaps someone in here could help me with this issue.
This is what i have tried:
*Uninstalled antivirus Eset smart security - failed
added excepton to firewall - failed
disabled firewall - failed
uninstalled cFosspeed - failed
deleted pcmeter - failed
disabled cpu monitor - failed
ran memtest86+ since i got some NO POST, i had to switch ram slots, they were on slot 2 and 4, i moved them to slots 1 and 3 and POST issue was fixed - failed
reset bios to default (no overcloking) - failed
updated all MS updates for win7 x64 - failed
updated all drivers and bios - failed*
This is all have tried and the game still crashes, i dont know if its the intel hd4000 failing, i have seen videos on youtube that gamers post playing with intel hd4000 with no issues.
Also i have seen videos of gamers playing Bad company 2 with Asus Sabertooth Z77, i asked the guy in the video channel to test the game only with the intel HD4000 and im waiting for his reply
link of the video: 



If someone can add ideas for testing this, i will appreciate it, i need help and this is very frustrating just to think that i spent around two thousand dollars and i wont be able to play one of favorite games. is sad for me


----------



## OneGun

Does it freeze up at any other time other then on BF3?


----------



## hckedbyrssians

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you need unsolder the slot. Can you check the slot using magnifying glass, see if any metal make contact with the pins?


Yes confirmed metal is touching. Can anyone chime in why these asus mobo are a favorite for hackers to compromise? Does it use some special LAN driver for multiple protocols. Any vulnerability to allow remote hackers view my screen in real time


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hckedbyrssians*
> 
> Yes confirmed metal is touching. Can anyone chime in why these asus mobo are a favorite for hackers to compromise? Does it use some special LAN driver for multiple protocols. Any vulnerability to allow remote hackers view my screen in real time


the only time a hacker can view your pc is if you let him, normally your router has a built in firewall, and then so does windows, so if you dumn enough to actually click on an attachment sent to you from an unknown source then you letting yourself in for it.

plenty of my clients call me saying , there is this guy from microsoft telling me i have a virus on my PC, its complete BullCrab , its a scam! , no one can scan your pc for viruses from across the globe unless you give them access to your pc
it goes for the same thing with these popups and adds you see on the net or websites claiming you have a virus "click here to scan"its complete bullcrab and if you gullible to click on it , like some of my clients then you site with big problems.

best thing to do is actually spend some money on a decent Antiviruskepp it up to date and scan regularly, dont click on stupid adds saying you have a virus and dont open email attachments from people or companies you have no affiliation to, mean, there was a email going around from FedX, no i know i dont deal with them so when i got the email saying please see attached document regarding your "whatever" cant remember what it said, but anyway, i have never delt with FedX so i was like ***, just Delete it.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hello guys, im new to the forum, i was googling about my motherboard a bit and i found
> This is what i have tried:
> *Uninstalled antivirus Eset smart security - failed
> added excepton to firewall - failed
> disabled firewall - failed
> uninstalled cFosspeed - failed
> deleted pcmeter - failed
> disabled cpu monitor - failed
> ran memtest86+ since i got some NO POST, i had to switch ram slots, they were on slot 2 and 4, i moved them to slots 1 and 3 and POST issue was fixed - failed
> reset bios to default (no overcloking) - failed
> updated all MS updates for win7 x64 - failed
> updated all drivers and bios - failed*
> This is all have tried and the game still crashes, i dont know if its the intel hd4000 failing, i have seen videos on youtube that gamers post playing with intel hd4000 with no issues.
> elp and this is very frustrating just to think that i spent around two thousand dollars and i wont be able to play one of favorite games. is sad for me


Does it crash running any other video stress tests like 3DMark, Kombuster, Heaven, etc ?


----------



## kizwan

Battlefield Bad Company 2 was known very sensitive with the GPU driver but as far as I know the issue was with AMD GPUs. The only advice I can give is try different drivers for Intel HD, older or newer.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Does it freeze up at any other time other then on BF3?


Well i played once BF3 for like 20 minutes and it didnt locked up at all, i need to test on bf3 more and check if it locks up.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Well i played once BF3 for like 20 minutes and it didnt locked up at all, i need to test on bf3 more and check if it locks up.


Try running some benchmarks to see if it locks up..


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Does it crash running any other video stress tests like 3DMark, Kombuster, Heaven, etc ?


I have not tested the computer with video stress test other than Asus pc diagnostics, i will try Heaven, i will post later about the results, thanks for the reply.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> I have not tested the computer with video stress test other than Asus pc diagnostics, i will try Heaven, i will post later about the results, thanks for the reply.


Also to add more info to your question, i have played Darksiders Dead Space 3 for several hours with no crash


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Try running some benchmarks to see if it locks up..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Does it crash running any other video stress tests like 3DMark, Kombuster, Heaven, etc ?


I ran the Heaven benchmark with the default settings the software has at the moment i opened it.
Heres a screenshot of the result and it didnt crash
http://es.tinypic.com/r/bhhnvp/5


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> I ran the Heaven benchmark with the default settings the software has at the moment i opened it.
> Heres a screenshot of the result and it didnt crash
> http://es.tinypic.com/r/bhhnvp/5


Perhaps these will help.
http://semiaccurate.com/2012/04/23/par-for-the-course-part-2/
http://communities.intel.com/thread/30152?start=15&tstart=0

Did you copy an old config for bad company 2 in your my documents folder? That could also cause issues.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Perhaps these will help.
> http://semiaccurate.com/2012/04/23/par-for-the-course-part-2/
> http://communities.intel.com/thread/30152?start=15&tstart=0
> 
> Did you copy an old config for bad company 2 in your my documents folder? That could also cause issues.


Thanks for the reply, i took a look into the websites you posted and i was running Bad company 2 on similar settings except for the resolution, i play fine with 1280x720, shadows low, AA 1x and Anisotropic filter 1x
Now that you say that, yes i copied the bfbc2 folder onto my documents, but that wont be a problem anymore, doing the tests of today, i updated the intel graphics driver from the intel website and the windows 7 was not starting up, it only showed a black screen and the mouse cursor.
Due to that issue i decided to reformat, im running now a fresh install of windows 7 ultimate x64, i have all the latest drivers from asus website and im updating windows 7.
Alos im redownloading Battlefield bad company 2 and i will test it again with this fresh install of windows 7 with all its updates and just the drivers installed.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, i took a look into the websites you posted and i was running Bad company 2 on similar settings except for the resolution, i play fine with 1280x720, shadows low, AA 1x and Anisotropic filter 1x
> Now that you say that, yes i copied the bfbc2 folder onto my documents, but that wont be a problem anymore, doing the tests of today, i updated the intel graphics driver from the intel website and the windows 7 was not starting up, it only showed a black screen and the mouse cursor.
> Due to that issue i decided to reformat, im running now a fresh install of windows 7 ultimate x64, i have all the latest drivers from asus website and im updating windows 7.
> Alos im redownloading Battlefield bad company 2 and i will test it again with this fresh install of windows 7 with all its updates and just the drivers installed.


Ok, remember to NOT copy the same config file. That caused crashes for lots of people including those with dedicated cards.


----------



## jktmas

is there a way to turn off cpu fan detection?
and i got a new cm storm stryker and 1000w platinum psu both from my friend brand new for $220


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> is there a way to turn off cpu fan detection?
> and i got a new cm storm stryker and 1000w platinum psu both from my friend brand new for $220


You mean the low rpm detection?


----------



## saipan

the low cpu fan warning can be turned of in bios...I forget where....I did it so it cant be hard.


----------



## francisw19

Yup it should be under the "Monitor" tab. Set "CPU Fan Speed Low Limit" to Ignore and it won't bother you.


----------



## HENDOGG99

I have a question. I just got my computer built up and it runs great! One problem I have though is my Fans in my case run high in sleep mode then goes quiet. This happens every 1 to 2 minutes. It basically sounds like when you first boot up your computer the fans are loud then settle down. Is there a setting in the Sabertooth BIOS to elminate this problem, or an ideal setting for my fans when the computer is not hard at work and in sleep mode. Building the computer was the easy part everything after that has been confusing. Thanks!


----------



## saipan

have you adjusted them in AI suite?


----------



## HENDOGG99

I have not. I will check that out when I get home from work tomorrow. Thanks!


----------



## Solonowarion

Does anyne here have ai suite installed. Or the thermal radar or whatever? I want to control the little fans. I can just use the bios so is there any other reason for me to get the software?


----------



## OneGun

I actually like the thermal radar. It is the only feature of AI suite that I use.


----------



## saipan

I use it for the thermal radar and the fan controls.


----------



## ZeVo

Hey guys.

I found this board on sale for $200 open box. Would you guys get it at this price? I've always wanted this board before but the price was too high before. Everything is included and still has the full warranty.


----------



## AenonElec

My two fans doesn't really work anymore when I plug them to the fan assist port. but they work with other ports.
Any idea what can I do?


----------



## SkyNetSTI

Need Help!!!
My friend is building a new rig. It's based on z77 sabertooht with 3570k + memory NOT from the list.
So we can't instal os because system catches glitch in the bios after 1-15 sec every try. I noticed that in bios memory recognized as 1333 instead 1600 so after a 20 reboots we had enough time to set it up on a 1600 but the same story catching glitch and reboot. The is no chance to renew bios.
So what is going on? Is this issues because memory not from supported list or its doa board?
Thanks!!!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AenonElec*
> 
> My two fans doesn't really work anymore when I plug them to the fan assist port. but they work with other ports.
> Any idea what can I do?


Are they shut off in the thermal radar software?


----------



## saipan

yeah 200 is fair price, I think microcenter has it 230.


----------



## ZeVo

Yeah, $230 with $15 tax on it. I have a 30 day warrant either way so I'll get the open box.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Yeah, $230 with $15 tax on it. I have a *30 day warrant either way* so I'll get the open box.


Either way?
"All ASUS motherboard purchased after November 1st, 1999 will carry 3 year warranty services. ASUS product warranty is based on the serial number printed.
Standard: 3 Years
TUF series: 5Years*1"
http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77#support_Warranty


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Ok, remember to NOT copy the same config file. That caused crashes for lots of people including those with dedicated cards.


Hey guys some good news for my rig








I tested bad company for 2 hours and it didnt crash at all
What i did different after the reformatting i installed a different windows7 i have, the previous one was W7 with sp1, the one installed now is was without the sp1
I installed all the updates for Windows 7 ultimate x64
Downloaded Battlefield Bad company 2 and installed it in the HDD, before it was in the SSD
and besides this i installed teamspeak 3, chrome, firefox, skype, logitech software for my Headsets, logitech setpoint for my mouse and the corsair ssd toolkit
Played the game yesterday around 40 minutes but i was not sure if it was fixed until today i played for 2 hours with no crash
Yeaahhh! I knew this beast mobo and whole computer should not have this issues, now i will try to find out exactly which software is causing the crashes.
Thanks for the help and replies!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPMOkc73*
> 
> Either way?
> "All ASUS motherboard purchased after November 1st, 1999 will carry 3 year warranty services. ASUS product warranty is based on the serial number printed.
> Standard: 3 Years
> TUF series: 5Years*1"
> http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77#support_Warranty


I know. I said in my first post the warranty still applies. I meant 30 days to return it to MicroCenter in case something isn't right.


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I know. I said in my first post the warranty still applies. I meant 30 days to return it to MicroCenter in case something isn't right.


Sounds to me like there is no reason to not get the open box at the cheaper price, good deal.


----------



## ZeVo

There may have been a change of plans. Just saw it for $221 new at Newegg.


----------



## jktmas

Hey guys im interested in trying lucid logix for autodesk reasons, and i was wondering where i can get it from


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> There may have been a change of plans. Just saw it for $221 new at Newegg.


Doesn't microcenter match online prices?


----------



## spidey81

I believe it's only on CPU's.


----------



## SkyNetSTI

sorry for re-post
Need Help!!!
My friend is building a new rig. It's based on z77 sabertooht with 3570k + memory NOT from the list.
So we can't instal os because system catches glitch in the bios after 1-15 sec every try. I noticed that in bios memory recognized as 1333 instead 1600 so after a 20 reboots we had enough time to set it up on a 1600 but the same story catching glitch and reboot. The is no chance to renew bios.
So what is going on? Is this issues because memory not from supported list or its doa board?
Thanks!!!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyNetSTI*
> 
> sorry for re-post
> Need Help!!!
> My friend is building a new rig. It's based on z77 sabertooht with 3570k + memory NOT from the list.
> So we can't instal os because system catches glitch in the bios after 1-15 sec every try. I noticed that in bios memory recognized as 1333 instead 1600 so after a 20 reboots we had enough time to set it up on a 1600 but the same story catching glitch and reboot. The is no chance to renew bios.
> So what is going on? Is this issues because memory not from supported list or its doa board?
> Thanks!!!


so it glitches even in the bios?


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyNetSTI*
> 
> sorry for re-post
> Need Help!!!
> My friend is building a new rig. It's based on z77 sabertooht with 3570k + memory NOT from the list.
> So we can't instal os because system catches glitch in the bios after 1-15 sec every try. I noticed that in bios memory recognized as 1333 instead 1600 so after a 20 reboots we had enough time to set it up on a 1600 but the same story catching glitch and reboot. The is no chance to renew bios.
> So what is going on? Is this issues because memory not from supported list or its doa board?
> Thanks!!!


get some ram that is on the list for the mobo. that will help to determine if it's ram or mobo


----------



## ChromePixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyNetSTI*
> 
> sorry for re-post
> Need Help!!!
> My friend is building a new rig. It's based on z77 sabertooht with 3570k + memory NOT from the list.
> So we can't instal os because system catches glitch in the bios after 1-15 sec every try. I noticed that in bios memory recognized as 1333 instead 1600 so after a 20 reboots we had enough time to set it up on a 1600 but the same story catching glitch and reboot. The is no chance to renew bios.
> So what is going on? Is this issues because memory not from supported list or its doa board?
> Thanks!!!


try with other ram sticks also check that the sticks are in the correct spots "ORDER"


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyNetSTI*
> 
> sorry for re-post
> Need Help!!!
> My friend is building a new rig. It's based on z77 sabertooht with 3570k + memory NOT from the list.
> So we can't instal os because system catches glitch in the bios after 1-15 sec every try. I noticed that in bios memory recognized as 1333 instead 1600 so after a 20 reboots we had enough time to set it up on a 1600 but the same story catching glitch and reboot. The is no chance to renew bios.
> So what is going on? Is this issues because memory not from supported list or its doa board?
> Thanks!!!


What you can do:-

Make sure RAMs are in the correct slot.
Try boot with only one RAM stick.
Update BIOS to newer version. You can use USB flashback to update BIOS without starting up your computer. Consult Sabertooth Z77 user manual.


----------



## Str8Klownin

Hi guys. Ive been reading this thread along with the C70 owners and finally bought both. Most of the pieces are starting to arrive and i just needed a little help. The green indicator at the bottom of the board really doesnt work for me. Obviously i know i cant change it but does anyone have any suggestions on a safe way to cover it up. Maybe black it out somehow?





Id love to keep you guys updated on this build if you'd like. Its my first water build and im sure ill mess up somewhere.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys. Ive been reading this thread along with the C70 owners and finally bought both. Most of the pieces are starting to arrive and i just needed a little help. The green indicator at the bottom of the board really doesnt work for me. Obviously i know i cant change it but does anyone have any suggestions on a safe way to cover it up. Maybe black it out somehow?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id love to keep you guys updated on this build if you'd like. Its my first water build and im sure ill mess up somewhere.


I'd go with either these or these to cover the led.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hello guys, im new to the forum, i was googling about my motherboard a bit and i found this forum, can anyone tell if you guys have any kind of lockup or freezing when playing battlefield bad company 2?
> My Gaming rig is not complete yet but here i leave you the components list:
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Intel Core i7 3770k
> Corsair Vengeance red 8gb 1866mhz
> SSD Corsair Neutron GTX 240gb
> HDD Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 rpm 64mb cache
> Corsair Hydro series H100i
> Logitech Illuminated Keyboard wired
> Logitech G9X Gaming mouse
> Logitech G35 Gaming Surround Headsets
> Monitor Benq XL2420T
> Case CM Storm Stryker
> No GPU card
> Meanwhile i save up some money, im playing game with the integrated graphics intel hd4000, its better than nothing but im having issues with battlefield bad company 2, while playing it just freezes or locks up, and it wont respond to any keyboard command like ctrl+alt+delete, nothing, i have to press the reset button or force the shutdown sometimes. I have searched about the issue on internet and it is a known issue from EA/Dice games that affects a bit of gamers with apparently having msi afterburner and or for onboard realtek audio device, i dont have msi afterburner since i dont have any gpu card yet and i tested the game with the onboard audio device disabled in the bios, just using the logitech g35 headsets, they are usb though and it still crashes, i have tried many things and there still many things to try but perhaps someone in here could help me with this issue.
> This is what i have tried:
> *Uninstalled antivirus Eset smart security - failed
> added excepton to firewall - failed
> disabled firewall - failed
> uninstalled cFosspeed - failed
> deleted pcmeter - failed
> disabled cpu monitor - failed
> ran memtest86+ since i got some NO POST, i had to switch ram slots, they were on slot 2 and 4, i moved them to slots 1 and 3 and POST issue was fixed - failed
> reset bios to default (no overcloking) - failed
> updated all MS updates for win7 x64 - failed
> updated all drivers and bios - failed*
> This is all have tried and the game still crashes, i dont know if its the intel hd4000 failing, i have seen videos on youtube that gamers post playing with intel hd4000 with no issues.
> Also i have seen videos of gamers playing Bad company 2 with Asus Sabertooth Z77, i asked the guy in the video channel to test the game only with the intel HD4000 and im waiting for his reply
> link of the video:
> 
> 
> 
> If someone can add ideas for testing this, i will appreciate it, i need help and this is very frustrating just to think that i spent around two thousand dollars and i wont be able to play one of favorite games. is sad for me


I finally found the issue of my gaming rig, reading in some forum about the Asus ai 2 suite, apparently the issue of this is the Punkbuster, reason why the game only crash the computer by playing online, in that forum someone explains the punkbuster doesnt work good with some overclocking softwares or hardware monitoring softwares (specially GPU monitoring like MSI Afterburner) in some cases like mine and its kinda confusing cause i dont have MSI Afterburner, and one friend has an asus motherboard but is a P8 deluxe and he has asus ai 2 suite installed with no issues playing bad compnay 2, i told him about the issue and he told me it might be that i need the GPU card, i somewhat agreed with his comment but i still got to test that.

To make the story short, after reformatting my ssd and installing just W7 and Bad company 2 it worked prefectly for 2 hours, after that test decided to install everything back, tested the game again and it crashed after 20 minutes, after that i uninstalled the Asus AI 2 suite, tested again and it crashed, even after uninstalling asus suite it left some services active, had to enter the services.msc and disabled them, restarted computer, try the game and played around 2 hours, no crash.

I hope this info help someone in the future if they have crashed, BSOD, freezings or lockups when playing online games with punkbuster especially EA Dice games.


----------



## Str8Klownin

2 questions i couldnt find answers to in thread.

Edit...Im guessing the backplate would solve this problem. Its been ordered.

Edit... Im just going to do push pull on top and on bottom. The top is gonna need a little modification on the hole placement because of the Sabertooth "Armor", but not that much.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> Hi guys. Ive been reading this thread along with the C70 owners and finally bought both. Most of the pieces are starting to arrive and i just needed a little help. The green indicator at the bottom of the board really doesnt work for me. Obviously i know i cant change it but does anyone have any suggestions on a safe way to cover it up. Maybe black it out somehow?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id love to keep you guys updated on this build if you'd like. Its my first water build and im sure ill mess up somewhere.


If you want to earn major Respect, solder on a new color LED cap








If you going Blue then solder on a Blue LED cap, it will be Bosss


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> 2 questions i couldnt find answers to in thread.
> 
> Edit...Im guessing the backplate would solve this problem. Its been ordered.
> 
> Edit... Im just going to do push pull on top and on bottom. The top is gonna need a little modification on the hole placement because of the Sabertooth "Armor", but not that much.


GPU water block is heavy & weigh down the card a little bit but it perfectly fine. The backplate will help a bit.

It's hard for them to provide screws with proper length though. Black Ice GTS radiators come with protection (in form of metal plate) to prevent you from puncturing the radiator but if you use enough force it still can happen. You can either use spacer/washer or cut the screws to "proper" length or run push-pull just like you decided.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> If you want to earn major Respect, solder on a new color LED cap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you going Blue then solder on a Blue LED cap, it will be Bosss


I'm guessing he's not doing that simply to retain his warranty


----------



## Str8Klownin

The tubing i picked up isn't very flexible. Doesnt really wanna work with me. I guess thats what i get for buying the ones on "Special".









Can anyone recommed a brand for 3/8 x 5/8 tubing?


----------



## jaredeatsdirt

Chose this mobo for my very first build, couldn't be happier! However, it it doesn't seem to overclock well... Any suggestions?
p.s. 16gb of mushkin RAM @ 1600MHz
i5-3570k @ 3.4GHz


----------



## Shadowline2553

I love my board, other than when the software throws weird readings at me that don't agree with what my eyes are telling me. For instance tonight Thermal Radar was telling me that the back fan wasn't spinning, when it was, and that the motherboard down near the power connector and lower SATA ports was sitting at 127°c. Is there any cure for these odd readings?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowline2553*
> 
> I love my board, other than when the software throws weird readings at me that don't agree with what my eyes are telling me. For instance tonight Thermal Radar was telling me that the back fan wasn't spinning, when it was, and that the motherboard down near the power connector and lower SATA ports was sitting at 127°c. Is there any cure for these odd readings?


Try uninstall and re install AI suite..Mine is pretty accurate as far as temps go.Right now my mobo sensor is at 37c..I hope you don't have a bad board..


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing i picked up isn't very flexible. Doesnt really wanna work with me. I guess thats what i get for buying the ones on "Special".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommed a brand for 3/8 x 5/8 tubing?


you have two options for this;
you can cut the current tubing to size and put it onto some metal bar that's about the same size as the inner diameter, bend it a little more than the diameter than you need and "cook" it a pot of hot water for about ten minutes, then quench it in cold water to give it a memory of that curve.
you can buy some primochill, feser or tygon tubing from a lot of different sites to include here or here.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaredeatsdirt*
> 
> Chose this mobo for my very first build, couldn't be happier! However, it it doesn't seem to overclock well... Any suggestions?
> p.s. 16gb of mushkin RAM @ 1600MHz
> i5-3570k @ 3.4GHz


What overclock are you going for? What have you tried so far? You can take some screen shots of your BIOS (you'll need a USB thumb drive connected). Just hit the F12 key and I'll capture what's on screen. I'd post a few screen shots of what's under the Ai Tweaker and maybe something will jump out. Generally, the Sabertooth Z77 is a decent overclocking board; well at least it's worked great for me anyway, so it might be just a few minor tweaks is all you need.


----------



## saipan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaredeatsdirt*
> 
> Chose this mobo for my very first build, couldn't be happier! However, it it doesn't seem to overclock well... Any suggestions?
> p.s. 16gb of mushkin RAM @ 1600MHz
> i5-3570k @ 3.4GHz


I got mine up to 4.1 with a few clicks of the mouse and inputing "41" 4 times. theres a bunch of youtube videos you can watch. I had no clue what I was doing and they helped a lot.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Hello.
The DDR3 4x4GB (16GB) Patriot Viper 3 2133MHz support this mother?

Since from last year I've... And recently I started jumping BSOD 0x50 and 0x1A referred to.

What I do in this case?
I do a memtest to corroborate failures?

Because I'm not sure if they are the memories, it was because I disabled the Windows virtual memory (since I've an SSD too) and like 16GB so there would be problems.

Do you suggest?

Since I'm from Argentina and before sending the modules back to the U.S. want to know well to be made to this case.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Hello.
> The DDR3 4x4GB (16GB) Patriot Viper 3 2133MHz support this mother?
> 
> Since from last year I've... And recently I started jumping BSOD 0x50 and 0x1A referred to.
> 
> What I do in this case?
> I do a memtest to corroborate failures?
> 
> Because I'm not sure if they are the memories, it was because I disabled the Windows virtual memory (since I've an SSD too) and like 16GB so there would be problems.
> 
> Do you suggest?
> 
> Since I'm from Argentina and before sending the modules back to the U.S. want to know well to be made to this case.


4 sticks at 2133 is very stressful for the IMC in Sandy and for the IMC in some Ivy CPUs. Try overvolting a bit. The motherboard 100% supports those speeds. I am running 2x4GB 2666MHz.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> 4 sticks at 2133 is very stressful for the IMC in Sandy and for the IMC in some Ivy CPUs. Try overvolting a bit. The motherboard 100% supports those speeds. I am running 2x4GB 2666MHz.


Thanks!

I've a Core i5 3570K Ivy Bridge and the BIOS sets all to auto
I've everything except the memories that I've manually configured with the corresponding voltage (1.5v)

What I have to do?
Since I've running on 2133MHz ... In this case, what I've to play so that this doesn't happen?
Because if the memories are 2133 is supposed to run at that speed ...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I've a Core i5 3570K Ivy Bridge and the BIOS sets all to auto
> I've everything except the memories that I've manually configured with the corresponding voltage (1.5v)
> 
> What I have to do?
> Since I've running on 2133MHz ... In this case, what I've to play so that this doesn't happen?
> Because if the memories are 2133 is supposed to run at that speed ...


Are you setting the speed of memory by a XMP profile in bios?


----------



## Str8Klownin

testing my tube runs. Turns out i had Primochill pro flex. Still not very cooperative but ill make it work.


----------



## ChromePixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> testing my tube runs. Turns out i had Primochill pro flex. Still not very cooperative but ill make it work.


Good Job


----------



## SPMOkc73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaredeatsdirt*
> 
> Chose this mobo for my very first build, couldn't be happier! However, it it doesn't seem to overclock well... Any suggestions?
> p.s. 16gb of mushkin RAM @ 1600MHz
> i5-3570k @ 3.4GHz


What OC are you trying to get? Mine has no problem hitting 4.5 @ 1.26v and barely hitting 60C (others I have seen are even better) while gaming on all cores. I think I could push it further but really don't have a need to do so.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> testing my tube runs. Turns out i had Primochill pro flex. Still not very cooperative but ill make it work.


I would definitely try cooking the tubes then, just to get that nice and tight routing and clean finish


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I've a Core i5 3570K Ivy Bridge and the BIOS sets all to auto
> I've everything except the memories that I've manually configured with the corresponding voltage (1.5v)
> 
> What I have to do?
> Since I've running on 2133MHz ... In this case, what I've to play so that this doesn't happen?
> Because if the memories are 2133 is supposed to run at that speed ...


Try adding .05V to VDIMM. so 1.500V -> 1.505V and 1.65V -> 1.7V. If it won't cooperate with an extra .05V, Memtest86+ and RMA the ram.


----------



## Str8Klownin

Success! ...at least so far. I still think the 750 pump/res is a bit loud for me but i can live with it. (if this is the new "quieter" version, what the hell were the old ones like?)





No leaks after about an hour. Plenty of airflow inside.

To Do List:

Cable Management
Stealth Drive
Maybe wrap my power supply in white carbon fiber...maybe
Overclocking 2700k and GTX 670 (if anyone has any helpful links for either, it'd be greatly appreciated)

I want to thank everyone in the thread for all the photos, guides, and any helpful tips through out.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> Success! ...at least so far. I still think the 750 pump/res is a bit loud for me but i can live with it. (if this is the new "quieter" version, what the hell were the old ones like?)
> 
> No leaks after about an hour. Plenty of airflow inside.
> 
> To Do List:
> 
> Cable Management
> Stealth Drive
> Maybe wrap my power supply in white carbon fiber...maybe
> Overclocking 2700k and GTX 670 (if anyone has any helpful links for either, it'd be greatly appreciated)
> 
> I want to thank everyone in the thread for all the photos, guides, and any helpful tips through out.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1265110/the-gtx-670-overclocking-master-guide


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Str8Klownin*
> 
> Success! ...at least so far. I still think the 750 pump/res is a bit loud for me but i can live with it. (if this is the new "quieter" version, what the hell were the old ones like?)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks after about an hour. Plenty of airflow inside.
> 
> To Do List:
> 
> Cable Management
> Stealth Drive
> Maybe wrap my power supply in white carbon fiber...maybe
> Overclocking 2700k and GTX 670 (if anyone has any helpful links for either, it'd be greatly appreciated)
> 
> I want to thank everyone in the thread for all the photos, guides, and any helpful tips through out.


She is beautiful...


----------



## [email protected]

BEAUTIFUL WORK!


----------



## OneGun

Can i run two fans of each MOBO fan header?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Can i run two fans of each MOBO fan header?


IIRC, the headers are good for 1A (12 Watts) each. So as long as you don't exceed that with both fans, you should be OK.


----------



## maortega15

I plan to use either this board or the upcoming Z87 board for Haswell and plan to use the Noctua NH-U14S. I would like to know if clearance should be an issue using non low profile memory. I plan to use 2x 8GB sticks if that helps.

Thanks


----------



## jincuteguy

My pc spec:

Asus Z77 Sabertooth
2600K @ 4.4ghz (1.325v)
8gb (2x4g) Kingston HyperX Beast 2133mhz ram
gtx 680
Enermax 850W DXX psu
NZXT 810 Switch

My question is: is it bad to run VCCSA (same as VCCIO on Asus Z77 Sabertooth board) at 1.10v? Cause my memory is not stable at 2133 and when I run it at 1600mhz, it was fine. So I want to run it at 2133 since that's what the ram supposed to run at. And I know al ot of ppl recommended to up the VCCIO / VCCSA to 1.10v.

The issue is this Asus Z77 Sabertooth board doesn't have VCCIO option in the bios, it only has VCCSA and god knows why. They said the VCCSA voltage is the same for VCCIO, is this true? Any help would be appreciated. Or is there an option for VCCIO voltage in the bios that Im missing?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> My pc spec:
> 
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth
> 2600K @ 4.4ghz (1.325v)
> 8gb (2x4g) Kingston HyperX Beast 2133mhz ram
> gtx 680
> Enermax 850W DXX psu
> NZXT 810 Switch
> 
> My question is: is it bad to run VCCSA (same as VCCIO on Asus Z77 Sabertooth board) at 1.10v? Cause my memory is not stable at 2133 and when I run it at 1600mhz, it was fine. So I want to run it at 2133 since that's what the ram supposed to run at. And I know al ot of ppl recommended to up the VCCIO / VCCSA to 1.10v.
> 
> The issue is this Asus Z77 Sabertooth board doesn't have VCCIO option in the bios, it only has VCCSA and god knows why. They said the VCCSA voltage is the same for VCCIO, is this true? Any help would be appreciated. Or is there an option for VCCIO voltage in the bios that Im missing?


I'm actually in the same boat at the moment with my Trident X's. They are stable on my rig, but I'm just trying to figure out if the VCCIO used is something very high. Anyway, the most I've been able to figure out is that the VCCIO voltage is linked to the VCCSA setting. So, there is actually no way to specifically set the VCCIO in the BIOS. From what I understand, to increase the VCCIO, you must increase the VCCSA voltage setting in the BIOS.

The VCCSA should be aroud 0.925 V by default. So you could try increasing that very gradually and see if you can get some stability. Don't for get too that with a Sandy Bridge CPU it's a bit harder to get super high RAM speeds since the IMC is a bit weaker compared to Ivy Bridge. So if you are unable to get 2133 stable, you can always back off to 1866 and tighten the timings which isn't too bad either.


----------



## jincuteguy

Yea I know the VCCSA is tight to the VCCIO on this board. I just don't get why they did this but not other boards, like those Asus Rog boards and the old P67 boards.

Yea I already increased the VCCSA to 1.10v What I want to know is are there any people in this thread who has run VCCSA at 1.10v and is there any issue with it? This thread has a lot of ppl with this boards so Im assuming there gotta be at least 1 person that use VCCSA at 1.10v or not the default 0.925v.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea I know the VCCSA is tight to the VCCIO on this board. I just don't get why they did this but not other boards, like those Asus Rog boards and the old P67 boards.
> 
> Yea I already increased the VCCSA to 1.10v What I want to know is are there any people in this thread who has run VCCSA at 1.10v and is there any issue with it? This thread has a lot of ppl with this boards so Im assuming there gotta be at least 1 person that use VCCSA at 1.10v or not the default 0.925v.


Yeah I wish Asus would have left these as separate settings too...this is my only major complaint about this board. I'm running mine just on Auto and it stays at 0.925V. In general the VCCSA at 1.10 V is OK. 1.20 V is about as high as you should go.

That said, with the way this board is setup, I'm not 100% sure what the VCCIO will go to if you set the VCCSA to 1.10V, for example. It sounds like if you increase the VCCSA the VCCIO will increase as well but I'm just not clear on how much.


----------



## jincuteguy

It's the same, cause if you open up the Asus Turbo V, you will see that it says " VCCSA / VCCIO and then the voltage.


----------



## OneGun

What temp point in thermal radar do you guys have your fans set 2?I had mine all on CPU but whenever i would open a new program they would spin up like a supercharger..Can any please recommend some good fan settings in thermal radar please?Thank you..


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What temp point in thermal radar do you guys have your fans set 2?I had mine all on CPU but whenever i would open a new program they would spin up like a supercharger..Can any please recommend some good fan settings in thermal radar please?Thank you..


set it to quiet.

or at lease set it to a constant 30-40 percent. if you not over clocking then that is perfect, i play with headphones and i sometimes here them spin up when launching a game and that is with standard setting, quiet works well, if it doesnt then set to custom and play around with the graph


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> set it to quiet.
> 
> or at lease set it to a constant 30-40 percent. if you not over clocking then that is perfect, i play with headphones and i sometimes here them spin up when launching a game and that is with standard setting, quiet works well, if it doesnt then set to custom and play around with the graph


Ok i got all my fans setup perfect..I use the usb3.0 temp to run all my fans off of cause the temp senson is in between my two 7950s.And it don't change the temp there that much unless i game then it really heats up cause of GPUs..But my problem is whenever i restart or turn off my computer even though in thermal radar it says they are still running on that temp sensor they are actually running of my cpu.I can tell cause whenever i open a program all my fans speed up like a turbo charged computer..Then i have to go back in and press apply to get them to not do that..Is there any fix to this?


----------



## Eze2kiel

My configuration:

IIntel Core i5 [email protected]
ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 DDR3 16GB 2133MHz
Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 Vapor-X OC Edition

Ok ... The issue is as follows ... I've the CPU vcore 1.00v
The CPU PLL 1.40v it had in

DDR, 4 sticks of 4GB, in total I've 16GB at 1.65v (this is one case you wanted to ask, since I've not overclocking, are by default with factory latencies, and the BIOS when I put that voltage appears in YELLOW.
Hence my question, just go up to 1.65v can't?
Or, in all the forums say that. strangest thing is that on another page I found had by default the 4 sticks at 1.50v , strange?)

The BLCK what I've on 100 without moving ...

Relationship with DDR CPU 100:133

CPU PLL Voltage 1.40v started with.
I jumped referred to 0x0A BSOD - So, that means would have to increase the QPI
And if doesn't work to increase the vcore (the DDR or CPU?).

What I did for now is turn up the CPU PLL to 1.50v by now I ****ed error 0x0A more...
But what say guys?
As to what I've QPI to AUTO ...
Wonder why the BSOD referred to it.

On the other hand, I've everything related to power off, the SpeedStep also, all TurboBoost is activated.

What could I say about considering this BSOD?


----------



## fulge

Hello

I have a problem with my Z77 Sabertooth board and poor connection speeds to multiple optical SATA drives&#8230;

As you are likely aware, there are 8 SATA connectors on the board, plus 2 ESata connectors out the back. These board accessible ports are laid out in pairs such that there are 2 intel 6Gb connectors (brown, one on top of the other), 4 intel 3Gb connectors (black, in 2 adjacent pairs of one on top of the other), and 2 Asmedia 6Gb ports (grey, one on top of the other).

The problem I seem to be having is that if I connect 3+ optical drives, very often at least one seems to be crippled down to a much lower reading speed than its full potential. Its as if they're competing for a resource somehow. (Even though the bandwidth from an optical drive should be only a fraction of the capacity of a SATA 3Gb connection). I've tried various configurations of physically plugging them in, but haven't managed to figure out what is going on.

Would updating the BIOS form 0704 help in this matter?

I have to confess I know virtually nothing about drive locations, channels, targets, Lun etc&#8230;

How can I get my system fully populated with optical drives going full throttle (reading) simultaneously?

Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fulge*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have a problem with my Z77 Sabertooth board and poor connection speeds to multiple optical SATA drives&#8230;
> 
> As you are likely aware, there are 8 SATA connectors on the board, plus 2 ESata connectors out the back. These board accessible ports are laid out in pairs such that there are 2 intel 6Gb connectors (brown, one on top of the other), 4 intel 3Gb connectors (black, in 2 adjacent pairs of one on top of the other), and 2 Asmedia 6Gb ports (grey, one on top of the other).
> 
> The problem I seem to be having is that if I connect 3+ optical drives, very often at least one seems to be crippled down to a much lower reading speed than its full potential. Its as if they're competing for a resource somehow. (Even though the bandwidth from an optical drive should be only a fraction of the capacity of a SATA 3Gb connection). I've tried various configurations of physically plugging them in, but haven't managed to figure out what is going on.
> 
> Would updating the BIOS form 0704 help in this matter?
> 
> I have to confess I know virtually nothing about drive locations, channels, targets, Lun etc&#8230;
> 
> How can I get my system fully populated with optical drives going full throttle (reading) simultaneously?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help!


I have no idea why it is doing that..But for sure update your bios to newest version as your is pretty outdated..


----------



## LuckyNumber13

So would like everyones opinion on this one..
failing gpu or mobo gone wrong or cpu failure?
so a little back I put my build together (sabertooth z77, i7
3770k, gtx titan, 1200w psu.) so everyone was good
I could surf the net , watch 1080p movies but the moment
I went to try to play a game or do a graphical stress test
my comp would shutdown to a black screen (not reboot but
shutdown). so I reset gpu, got a second 1200w psu to test
with and done a bunch of other things..still freezing.
lately though now right off the start of the comp it start to
have lines/ depixel (even in bios) then when the windows trys
to start (at the logo part) it freezes and goes to black screen.
any thoughts.. i'm almost positive it's the gpu.
this is what it looks like.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> So would like everyones opinion on this one..
> failing gpu or mobo gone wrong or cpu failure?
> so a little back I put my build together (sabertooth z77, i7
> 3770k, gtx titan, 1200w psu.) so everyone was good
> I could surf the net , watch 1080p movies but the moment
> I went to try to play a game or do a graphical stress test
> my comp would shutdown to a black screen (not reboot but
> shutdown). so I reset gpu, got a second 1200w psu to test
> with and done a bunch of other things..still freezing.
> lately though now right off the start of the comp it start to
> have lines/ depixel (even in bios) then when the windows trys
> to start (at the logo part) it freezes and goes to black screen.
> any thoughts.. i'm almost positive it's the gpu.
> this is what it looks like.


have you tried plugging your monitor into your Mobo to see if you still have the issue?


----------



## LuckyNumber13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> have you tried plugging your monitor into your Mobo to see if you still have the issue?


not yet but I ordered the cable the other day so should be here by the end of the week.
I was thinking the same thing but I didn't have the right cable (my monitor
only has DVI and vga inputs so I needed an HDMI to DVI cable).
but I am going to rule that one out in few days. I guess if the comp
loads fine then for sure all the problems lie with the gpu.
thnx for quick response.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> not yet but I ordered the cable the other day so should be here by the end of the week.
> I was thinking the same thing but I didn't have the right cable (my monitor
> only has DVI and vga inputs so I needed an HDMI to DVI cable).
> but I am going to rule that one out in few days. I guess if the comp
> loads fine then for sure all the problems lie with the gpu.
> thnx for quick response.


It looks to me like the GPU but by testing the monitor in the mobo that should for sure tell you..


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> My configuration:
> 
> IIntel Core i5 [email protected]
> ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 DDR3 16GB 2133MHz
> Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 Vapor-X OC Edition
> 
> Ok ... The issue is as follows ... I've the CPU vcore 1.00v
> The CPU PLL 1.40v it had in
> 
> DDR, 4 sticks of 4GB, in total I've 16GB at 1.65v (this is one case you wanted to ask, since I've not overclocking, are by default with factory latencies, and the BIOS when I put that voltage appears in YELLOW.
> Hence my question, just go up to 1.65v can't?
> Or, in all the forums say that. strangest thing is that on another page I found had by default the 4 sticks at 1.50v , strange?)
> 
> The BLCK what I've on 100 without moving ...
> 
> Relationship with DDR CPU 100:133
> 
> CPU PLL Voltage 1.40v started with.
> I jumped referred to 0x0A BSOD - So, that means would have to increase the QPI
> And if doesn't work to increase the vcore (the DDR or CPU?).
> 
> What I did for now is turn up the CPU PLL to 1.50v by now I ****ed error 0x0A more...
> But what say guys?
> As to what I've QPI to AUTO ...
> Wonder why the BSOD referred to it.
> 
> On the other hand, I've everything related to power off, the SpeedStep also, all TurboBoost is activated.
> 
> What could I say about considering this BSOD?


None?


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> not yet but I ordered the cable the other day so should be here by the end of the week.
> I was thinking the same thing but I didn't have the right cable (my monitor
> only has DVI and vga inputs so I needed an HDMI to DVI cable).


I don't understand why you need a new cable. The Sabertooth has DVI and VGA outputs on it, so just plug your monitor cable directly into one of them and test.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand why you need a new cable. The Sabertooth has DVI and VGA outputs on it, so just plug your monitor cable directly into one of them and test.


the z77 sabertooth only has an hdmi and a displayport out for the inegrated graphics...


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> the z77 sabertooth only has an hdmi and a displayport out for the inegrated graphics...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My bad! I have no idea why I thought that.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok i got all my fans setup perfect..I use the usb3.0 temp to run all my fans off of cause the temp senson is in between my two 7950s.And it don't change the temp there that much unless i game then it really heats up cause of GPUs..But my problem is whenever i restart or turn off my computer even though in thermal radar it says they are still running on that temp sensor they are actually running of my cpu.I can tell cause whenever i open a program all my fans speed up like a turbo charged computer..Then i have to go back in and press apply to get them to not do that..Is there any fix to this?


well if i was in your shoes i would reload my windows.
then install all drivers and install the asus thermal armor last.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Ok i got all my fans setup perfect..I use the usb3.0 temp to run all my fans off of cause the temp senson is in between my two 7950s.And it don't change the temp there that much unless i game then it really heats up cause of GPUs..But my problem is whenever i restart or turn off my computer even though in thermal radar it says they are still running on that temp sensor they are actually running of my cpu.I can tell cause whenever i open a program all my fans speed up like a turbo charged computer..Then i have to go back in and press apply to get them to not do that..Is there any fix to this?


There is a ai suite uninstaller on the Asus support forums. You might to run that and then try to reinstall the latest version.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> My configuration:
> 
> IIntel Core i5 [email protected]
> ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 DDR3 16GB 2133MHz
> Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 Vapor-X OC Edition
> 
> Ok ... The issue is as follows ... I've the CPU vcore 1.00v
> The CPU PLL 1.40v it had in
> 
> DDR, 4 sticks of 4GB, in total I've 16GB at 1.65v (this is one case you wanted to ask, since I've not overclocking, are by default with factory latencies, and the BIOS when I put that voltage appears in YELLOW.
> Hence my question, just go up to 1.65v can't?
> Or, in all the forums say that. strangest thing is that on another page I found had by default the 4 sticks at 1.50v , strange?)
> 
> The BLCK what I've on 100 without moving ...
> 
> Relationship with DDR CPU 100:133
> 
> CPU PLL Voltage 1.40v started with.
> I jumped referred to 0x0A BSOD - So, that means would have to increase the QPI
> And if doesn't work to increase the vcore (the DDR or CPU?).
> 
> What I did for now is turn up the CPU PLL to 1.50v by now I ****ed error 0x0A more...
> But what say guys?
> As to what I've QPI to AUTO ...
> Wonder why the BSOD referred to it.
> 
> On the other hand, I've everything related to power off, the SpeedStep also, all TurboBoost is activated.
> 
> What could I say about considering this BSOD?


PLL voltage seems pretty aggressively low? I would start over if I were you. I thought the default was 1.7 or 1.8v

Also, your memory should say right on the packaging or the sticks themselves what voltage is required for 2133mhz.

Are you running the latest bios?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyNumber13*
> 
> So would like everyones opinion on this one..
> failing gpu or mobo gone wrong or cpu failure?
> so a little back I put my build together (sabertooth z77, i7
> 3770k, gtx titan, 1200w psu.) so everyone was good
> I could surf the net , watch 1080p movies but the moment
> I went to try to play a game or do a graphical stress test
> my comp would shutdown to a black screen (not reboot but
> shutdown). so I reset gpu, got a second 1200w psu to test
> with and done a bunch of other things..still freezing.
> lately though now right off the start of the comp it start to
> have lines/ depixel (even in bios) then when the windows trys
> to start (at the logo part) it freezes and goes to black screen.
> any thoughts.. i'm almost positive it's the gpu.
> this is what it looks like.


Looks like GPU to me, but pull the GPU and test with the onboard to be sure.
If that works, try another cable. They can fail, albeit rarely.


----------



## MugenSean2000

This motherboard is great. Gotta OC my RAM tonight.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> PLL voltage seems pretty aggressively low? I would start over if I were you. I thought the default was 1.7 or 1.8v
> 
> Also, your memory should say right on the packaging or the sticks themselves what voltage is required for 2133mhz.
> 
> Are you running the latest bios?


Yes, I'm using the latest BIOS (1908).

I've memories in default setup (11-11-11-27) and Patriot's website says that the voltage is 1.5v, but with that voltage I are unstable.

I've the CPU PLL voltage because I said from setting it to 1.40v.
If it is unstable to go up to 0.10v

Now what I've for now set to 1.50v and any problem.

But my question is .. If Patriot manufactured memories, a total of 4 sticks of 2133MHz ... Why I can't setting them to the default voltage?
For now I got no BSOD for days... But just wonder why, since the machine I've no overclocking for now.

At this frequency they were completely stable


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I'm using the latest BIOS (1908).
> 
> I've memories in default setup (11-11-11-27) and Patriot's website says that the voltage is 1.5v, but with that voltage I are unstable.
> 
> I've the CPU PLL voltage because I said from setting it to 1.40v.
> If it is unstable to go up to 0.10v
> 
> Now what I've for now set to 1.50v and any problem.
> 
> But my question is .. If Patriot manufactured memories, a total of 4 sticks of 2133MHz ... Why I can't setting them to the default voltage?
> For now I got no BSOD for days... But just wonder why, since the machine I've no overclocking for now.
> 
> At this frequency they were completely stable


sounds to me like you just have a faulty dimm. I would run them underclocked for stability and run them through memtest to verify if any of your sticks are jacked up. you'll probably find one of them faulty and be able to pursue an rma from there.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> sounds to me like you just have a faulty dimm. I would run them underclocked for stability and run them through memtest to verify if any of your sticks are jacked up. you'll probably find one of them faulty and be able to pursue an rma from there.


Just the other day all night let the memtest run.
In the morning I woke up and there was no error thrown. So the sticks of memory are.
Testing the 4 together as each separately.

Any other suggestions?

For now with 1.65v not throw me BSOD again...

I don't understand why I need to put them that voltage when in fact the stock is 1.50v (remember that I haven't overclocking)


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Just the other day all night let the memtest run.
> In the morning I woke up and there was no error thrown. So the sticks of memory are.
> Testing the 4 together as each separately.
> 
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> For now with 1.65v not throw me BSOD again...
> 
> I don't understand why I need to put them that voltage when in fact the stock is 1.50v (remember that I haven't overclocking)


If they can't run at the voltage they are rated for then I would say they are bad...

The suggestion above is a good one.

I'm still not sure why your PLL is so low. aka if you can't run everything on it's stock settings without issue, then you shouldn't be lowering/adjusting/overclocking till you can.


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> If they can't run at the voltage they are rated for then I would say they are bad...
> 
> The suggestion above is a good one.
> 
> I'm still not sure why your PLL is so low. aka if you can't run everything on it's stock settings without issue, then you shouldn't be lowering/adjusting/overclocking till you can.


Thanks for resply MotherFo!

Actually I have no overclocking, but I have everything set "manual" so that the voltage does not go up or down, but it locks.

Wonder why not hold with the 4 sticks at 1.5v 2133MHz (actual speed).

If I set the XMS profile, I can take the memories manually setting the voltage to "Auto"?
As I recall in this way also threw me BSOD.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Thanks for resply MotherFo!
> 
> Actually I have no overclocking, but I have everything set "manual" so that the voltage does not go up or down, but it locks.
> 
> Wonder why not hold with the 4 sticks at 1.5v 2133MHz (actual speed).
> 
> If I set the XMS profile, I can take the memories manually setting the voltage to "Auto"?
> As I recall in this way also threw me BSOD.


You should just be able to set to XMP profile 1 and everything should work..


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> Wonder why not hold with the 4 sticks at 1.5v 2133MHz (actual speed).
> 
> If I set the XMS profile, I can take the memories manually setting the voltage to "Auto"?
> As I recall in this way also threw me BSOD.


that alone would be enough reason for me to pursue a rma. reason would be defective since they are unable to run correctly under stock settings. once you get your new dimms in, you could investigate further into what's causing your issues, but I would imagine that replacement of the faulty dimms should fix it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eze2kiel*
> 
> CPU PLL Voltage 1.40v started with.
> I jumped referred to 0x0A BSOD - So, that means would have to increase the QPI
> And if doesn't work to increase the vcore (the DDR or CPU?).


I missed it earlier, but that's the error code for unstable ram/ims. rma your sticks for great justice.


----------



## Bobmitch

Question for anyone who just purchased a GTX780. Seems that EVGA is having compatibility issues with GTX 780 UEFI bios and certain motherboards. The Sabertooth z77 is potentially one of the "issue" boards with black screens on bootup or major BSOD issues in windows. Is anyone running a GTX 780 on your Sabertooth z77. I have one on order and don't want to regret my purchase...

Also, they released a firmware update for the 780 series...but only seems to be for Intel / Award bios. Seems that Asus boards are not even tested...

Any input much appreciated...

Thanks


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Question for anyone who just purchased a GTX780. Seems that EVGA is having compatibility issues with GTX 780 UEFI bios and certain motherboards. The Sabertooth z77 is potentially one of the "issue" boards with black screens on bootup or major BSOD issues in windows. Is anyone running a GTX 780 on your Sabertooth z77. I have one on order and don't want to regret my purchase...
> 
> Also, they released a firmware update for the 780 series...but only seems to be for Intel / Award bios. Seems that Asus boards are not even tested...
> 
> Any input much appreciated...
> 
> Thanks


Wow thats not good, im saving money to buy the evga GTX 780, i dont wanna have issues with, is the last part i need for my First Gaming PC Build, im gonna be sad if i wont be able to use that video card








When you get the GPU card, please test it and post if it works fine with sabertooth z77.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Wow thats not good, im saving money to buy the evga GTX 780, i dont wanna have issues with, is the last part i need for my First Gaming PC Build, im gonna be sad if i wont be able to use that video card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get the GPU card, please test it and post if it works fine with sabertooth z77.


I am working with a few people that have the P8z77 series boards...since we all have AMI bios. If the bios flash works for the person I am currently helping...gives me a lot of hope that EVGA already tackled this. If NOT...then I am talking to the product manager about a fix in the very near future. Can't believe that Nvidia would release a generation of cards with these issues. You would have thought that Nvidia would have tested thoroughly. I will keep you posted...

Frankly, if the issue doesn't get resolved, I am going to cancel the order. I have a GTX 670 FTW that runs full 680 speed...so I am sitting OK. The 780 is such a beast!


----------



## MKHunt

I've been using 2x titans on the sabertooth since... well, since Titan launch. Using SecureBoot too.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I've been using 2x titans on the sabertooth since... well, since Titan launch. Using SecureBoot too.


It is obvious that Nvidia did something to the bios of the 780 series, that is causing issues with certain bios of motherboards. EVGA has figured that out and has fixed issues with Award bios, and some others...but NOT AMI (which is prevalent in most Asus boards). People are booting into black screens, getting "out of range" messages on their monitors and BSOD. Nvidia tinkered and has caused it's own problems.

A few posters even suggested...upgrade to Haswell. Having read the benchmarks on Haswell...I am more than happy to sit on my Sabertooth z77 with i7 3770K. The major reason to upgrade to Haswell looks like the improved Intel GPU specs...frankly...who is using the Intel GPU???

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/core_i7_4770k_review,1.html


----------



## OneGun

Haswell one seems like a good upgrade for Sandy bridge or older. I will not be upgrading my 3570k that's for sure..


----------



## Brenton

Ya,

I get 4.7 on my 3770k with this Sabertooth board by just setting 47 multi. on all cores and XMP for memory...everything else auto.

Sounds like some reviewers were having a tough time getting past 4.2-4.5 on Haswell, heck with that.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brenton*
> 
> Ya,
> 
> I get 4.7 on my 3770k with this Sabertooth board by just setting 47 multi. on all cores and XMP for memory...everything else auto.
> 
> Sounds like some reviewers were having a tough time getting past 4.2-4.5 on Haswell, heck with that.


Ya but your voltage will be so high at that point you will fry your card.. I set my 3570 to 4.4 on auto everything with Xmp profile 1 ad I was at 1.46 volts lmao..


----------



## Brenton

Highest I've seen with auto everything at 4.7 is 1.37 volts, max temps in high 60's


----------



## ZnJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Wow thats not good, im saving money to buy the evga GTX 780, i dont wanna have issues with, is the last part i need for my First Gaming PC Build, im gonna be sad if i wont be able to use that video card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you get the GPU card, please test it and post if it works fine with sabertooth z77.


I saw a couple of guys here http://www.overclock.net/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/1400 that have Sabertooth z77 and I did not see them post any issue with their 780s, I also have Sabertooth Z77 but have not used it with 780 yet. Will post feedback when I get the chance to finish my build.


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZnJ*
> 
> I saw a couple of guys here http://www.overclock.net/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/1400 that have Sabertooth z77 and I did not see them post any issue with their 780s, I also have Sabertooth Z77 but have not used it with 780 yet. Will post feedback when I get the chance to finish my build.


That would be great. I found a few other posters saying the same. I just made sure that I am up to date with bios, etc...I will keep an eye on your posts

Thanks


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> Question for anyone who just purchased a GTX780. Seems that EVGA is having compatibility issues with GTX 780 UEFI bios and certain motherboards. The Sabertooth z77 is potentially one of the "issue" boards with black screens on bootup or major BSOD issues in windows. Is anyone running a GTX 780 on your Sabertooth z77. I have one on order and don't want to regret my purchase...
> 
> Also, they released a firmware update for the 780 series...but only seems to be for Intel / Award bios. Seems that Asus boards are not even tested...
> 
> Any input much appreciated...
> 
> Thanks


make sure your not using hmdi. i had that same issue as well on my friends computer. dvi seemed to work.


----------



## MVilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brenton*
> 
> Ya,
> 
> I get 4.7 on my 3770k with this Sabertooth board by just setting 47 multi. on all cores and XMP for memory...everything else auto.
> 
> Sounds like some reviewers were having a tough time getting past 4.2-4.5 on Haswell, heck with that.


Overclocking past 4.5ghz seems mostly to be an issue with the engineering samples that reviewers have received. People should check out Sin's review of the Gigabyte z87x-oc where he sits easily at 4.5ghz on air and even takes to a stable clock of 5.1ghz later on.


----------



## neopunx

Can you run three cards off of this board? Three 7970s that is. I've read on here people saying that there is not enough room, but what about if you were to WC the cards and there was room? How does that work out? 8x8x4? Worth it? Thanks.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neopunx*
> 
> Can you run three cards off of this board? Three 7970s that is. I've read on here people saying that there is not enough room, but what about if you were to WC the cards and there was room? How does that work out? 8x8x4? Worth it? Thanks.


I don't think they would fit.. I have 2 7950s and there is no more room.. But mine are air cooled..


----------



## Solonowarion

Sorry guys but how do I change the fan speed in thermal radar? I feel like theres an unlock button I am missing or something? I cant move the line around the graph.

I'm missing something.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Sorry guys but how to I change the fan speed in thermal radar? I feel like theres an unlock button I am missing or something? I cant move the line around the graph.
> 
> I'm missing something.


You need to use the drop down on the right and set to user.Right now it is prolly set to standard or performance...Then you can change the temp bar..


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> You need to use the drop down on the right and set to user.Right now it is prolly set to standard or performance...Then you can change the temp bar..


Thanks you sir. Just found it and was going to delete post. +1


----------



## spidey81

Looks like I should be getting back my board from RMA! I actually picked it up cheap with bent pins. I managed to repair the pins and the board recognized my 2700k and even installed windows, but I ran into a uefi issue with the clock not setting and showing randomness. Between swapping out the bios chip to troubleshoot and shipping to ASUS I'm out a total of $100!

I just got the tracking info from ASUS's service dept saying they're shipping me out a new board. Looking forward to pushing my chip with on my sabertooth Z77. I'll be checking back in once I get everything up and going.


----------



## neopunx

Anyone else with thoughts on this boards ability to support three cards?


----------



## Shadowline2553

I side-loaded Fan Xpert2 on my Sabertooth in order to control those mini-fans so that they only come on when they are needed. That's when the board and VRMs head over 45c. I find that that is the best way to keep the noise down, otherwise my computer is almost dead quiet.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neopunx*
> 
> Anyone else with thoughts on this boards ability to support three cards?


I just run 2-way SLI on my board and it works fine, but with 3 cards the last slot will just be 4x PCIe 2.0 which would choke the 3rd card quite a bit. TBH, I don't think this is something you'd want to do with this board. With 3 cards, it would be worth upgrading to a board with a PLX chip so you have more PCIe lanes.


----------



## Bobmitch

New bios 2003 available:

http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36

SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 2003
1.Optimize BIOS configuration
2.Add multiple languages support in BIOS setup.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobmitch*
> 
> New bios 2003 available:
> 
> http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36
> 
> SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 2003
> 1.Optimize BIOS configuration
> 2.Add multiple languages support in BIOS setup.


Have you already tried it?


----------



## Bobmitch

I am running on it now. Things seem normal...


----------



## navit

Hate to change, been running [email protected] with my current bios for a while now.


----------



## OneGun

New bios has issues..If i set my ratio on all 4 cores to 41 and auto voltage it stays at 41 all the time and never idles..If i put on default my cores turbo is only 3.6 asnd not 3.8 like it is suppose to be..


----------



## AgentSquirrel

Hi all,

I though I would try here, since no one seemed to have an answer in the windows forum. I just installed windows 7 into a new build with the sabertooth.
Nothing else has been connect or loaded into the system except chipset, USB, LAN, audio, AS Media, and MEI drivers,, latest BIOS, and connected mouse keyboard and monitor. I cannot get the computer to shut down through the windows software. I can shut it down by holding the on/off case button. Anyone ever encountered this or have any ideas? I'm ready to throw in the towel and re-install windows but would prefer not to. Any ihelpwould be appreciated


----------



## Bobmitch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> New bios has issues..If i set my ratio on all 4 cores to 41 and auto voltage it stays at 41 all the time and never idles..If i put on default my cores turbo is only 3.6 asnd not 3.8 like it is suppose to be..


From what I learned long ago...when you set your memory to XMP mode...the board immediately overclocks to Turbo speed and locks it in. When you set your multiplier to 41, you get just that. I have never had 3.5 on my 3770K. From day one, I set my DDR3 1866 memory to XMP mode (same effect if you manually set it the memory timings)...once done my processor immediately locked at 3.9 GHZ. So I took it one step further and set the multiplier to 40. I have been running 4.0 GHZ ever since. No turbo, no idle that I am aware of. My temps are good...cpu idles at 40 and never goes over 80. I am using stock cooler and have Thermaltake Overseer RX-1 case with huge 220 mm fans in front and on top.

The only way I know to get turbo to work and go from 3.5-3.9 constantly is to let the board run my memory at 1333 and turn speed step back on. Never saw the use for speedstep on a desktop...


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> New bios has issues..If i set my ratio on all 4 cores to 41 and auto voltage it stays at 41 all the time and never idles..*If i put on default my cores turbo is only 3.6 asnd not 3.8 like it is suppose to be..*


That make sense, at least according to Intel specs. Turbo ratio for 3570k is 2/3/4/4. The first ratio, "2", is the ratio when all cores are active.

(2 x 100) + 3400 = 3600 >> ~3.6GHz.

To allow it to Turbo Boost to 3.8GHz, just need to set _"Turbo Ratio"_ in BIOS. Interesting that ASUS _"decided"_ to follow Intel specs with their latest BIOS (not just Sabertooth Z77). Hmmm....


----------



## ranerX3

I have been offered Z77 sabertooth instead of a P67 UD7 what the main differences between them for overclocking and general use ?
the motherboard will be connected to the rig in my sig.

~ thx

edit:
was wondering why is this motherboard marked a Quad SLI/CF support when their are only 3 full PCI-E slots ?


----------



## kizwan

With two dual GPU cards (e.g. GTX690, 7990), you can setup quad SLI/CF.


----------



## MotherFo

I'm curious if mkhunt will finally convince me to leave the comfort of bios 1504 for this new one


----------



## senna89

have you ever had any problems with 4 modules of DIMM RAM ?
i remember usually the mainboard is not good to manage 4 module, so is prefer to use just two.


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> have you ever had any problems with 4 modules of DIMM RAM ?
> i remember usually the mainboard is not good to manage 4 module, so is prefer to use just two.


I've got all my four slots filled with 4GB Dominator Platinum 1866MHz without any issues. As long as you are using either slot 1 & 3 or 2 & 4 when using only 2 dimms you should be fine.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> have you ever had any problems with 4 modules of DIMM RAM ?
> i remember usually the mainboard is not good to manage 4 module, so is prefer to use just two.


they corrected that some time ago. I almost want to say on sb-e, but don't quote me on that.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> have you ever had any problems with 4 modules of DIMM RAM ?
> i remember usually the mainboard is not good to manage 4 module, so is prefer to use just two.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I've got all my four slots filled with 4GB Dominator Platinum 1866MHz without any issues. As long as you are using either slot 1 & 3 or 2 & 4 when using only 2 dimms you should be fine.


Same here...no problems with 4 DIMMs at all.









Unless you're trying to hit crazy high RAM speeds, it shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> have you ever had any problems with 4 modules of DIMM RAM ?
> i remember usually the mainboard is not good to manage 4 module, so is prefer to use just two.


Ivy Bridge and Sandy Bridge E have stronger integrated memory controllers, so they can generally handle it.







A great improvement to the old days!


----------



## bozzd

hi guys im using sabertooth z77 mobo built couple months ago..recently while im charging my phone through front usb 2.0 port from the front case(corsair 600D) when i boot up to windows my keyboard n mouse doesnt respond for 2-3mins. however both of them works perfectly fine on bios.ive tested if i unplug the phone, when boot up to windows it just instantly work. this is strange, any idea wht is the problem?


----------



## bozzd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bozzd*
> 
> hi guys im using sabertooth z77 mobo built couple months ago..recently while im charging my phone through front usb 2.0 port from the front case(corsair 600D) when i boot up to windows my keyboard n mouse doesnt respond for 2-3mins. however both of them works perfectly fine on bios.ive tested if i unplug the phone, when boot up to windows it just instantly work. this is strange, any idea wht is the problem?


oh and also if i plug in wireless adapter controller for my joystick the same problem occur. does anyone ever had the same prob?


----------



## boilface

Been running a Sabertooth for a while now. Current build...

Asus Sabertooth Z77
Intel i7-3770
G.Skill RipJawsX 32GB DDR3 CL9 (F3-1600C9Q-32GXM)
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB
Western Digital 3TB Red
Seasonic S12ii 520w
Cooler Master CM690 II advanced
BitFenix Spectre 140mm and 120mm
Dell 30" LCD U3014 with AX510 sound bar
Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G700
CM Storm QuickFire Rapid keyboard









Yes, no graphics card. This is a photoshop PC.

The ram originally had blue heatsinks. I de-anodized them and sprayed them white, first applying one coat of primer. The only build issue I had was the board not booting with four sticks. I inserted one stick, booted to BIOS, set the XMP profile and then installed the other three sticks. Booted fine.

The braided cables are from BitFenix.

I upgraded the SSD from an Intel 120GB 330. Didn't notice any difference in day-to-day use, but the benchmark scores are much better. I wanted to move my temp and scratch disks to the SSD, hence the need for 256GB. I switched to the Intel RST drivers from the standard MSAHCI ones and saw an increase in 4K reads/writes (not that I noticed though).

Swapped my 4x2TB WD green drives for 3TB red ones. Only one is inside the machine, the others are backups. Two in a RAID1 box and another is kept off-site.

Just upgraded my Dell 3008WFP to the new U3014. Calibrates very nicely with the i1 DisplayPro. I see the overdrive problems that people are reporting but they don't bother me. I don't have any games so I can't say if it affects them.

Everything but the CPU was running hot (in the 60's), so I decided to move things around a bit. I swapped out the H60 with the Intel heatsink that came with the processor. The H60 intake fan is now a Spectre 120 as an exhaust. The CM690 included front intake fan I changed to the Spectre 140mm. Finally, I removed the thermal armor of the Sabertooth. All my temps are now just below 40. The stock Intel fan runs only a few degrees higher then the H60. I suspect the main culprit was the thermal armor without the small fans. The two top fans in the photos are not running.


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boilface*
> 
> Been running a Sabertooth for a while now. Current build...
> 
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Intel i7-3770
> G.Skill RipJawsX 32GB DDR3 CL9 (F3-1600C9Q-32GXM)
> Samsung 840 Pro 256GB
> Western Digital 3TB Red
> Seasonic S12ii 520w
> Cooler Master CM690 II advanced
> BitFenix Spectre 140mm and 120mm
> Dell 30" LCD U3014 with AX510 sound bar
> Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G700
> CM Storm QuickFire Rapid keyboard
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, no graphics card. This is a photoshop PC.
> 
> The ram originally had blue heatsinks. I de-anodized them and sprayed them white, first applying one coat of primer. The only build issue I had was the board not booting with four sticks. I inserted one stick, booted to BIOS, set the XMP profile and then installed the other three sticks. Booted fine.
> 
> The braided cables are from BitFenix.
> 
> I upgraded the SSD from an Intel 120GB 330. Didn't notice any difference in day-to-day use, but the benchmark scores are much better. I wanted to move my temp and scratch disks to the SSD, hence the need for 256GB. I switched to the Intel RST drivers from the standard MSAHCI ones and saw an increase in 4K reads/writes (not that I noticed though).
> 
> Swapped my 4x2TB WD green drives for 3TB red ones. Only one is inside the machine, the others are backups. Two in a RAID1 box and another is kept off-site.
> 
> Just upgraded my Dell 3008WFP to the new U3014. Calibrates very nicely with the i1 DisplayPro. I see the overdrive problems that people are reporting but they don't bother me. I don't have any games so I can't say if it affects them.
> 
> Everything but the CPU was running hot (in the 60's), so I decided to move things around a bit. I swapped out the H60 with the Intel heatsink that came with the processor. The H60 intake fan is now a Spectre 120 as an exhaust. The CM690 included front intake fan I changed to the Spectre 140mm. Finally, I removed the thermal armor of the Sabertooth. All my temps are now just below 40. The stock Intel fan runs only a few degrees higher then the H60. I suspect the main culprit was the thermal armor without the small fans. The two top fans in the photos are not running.


In my Corsair 600t I've never had any issues with the thermal armour and high temps. The hottest thing in my PC is my OCed 3570k and that maxes out at 65c with a Zalman CNPS9900 Max. I like the armour for the clean looks and soon with a water cooler it should look even better.


----------



## OneGun

The hottest temp in mine on idle is 40c and it's the spot in between my two gpus.. But I do have 7 case fans..


----------



## boilface

Quote:


> In my Corsair 600t I've never had any issues with the thermal armour and high temps. The hottest thing in my PC is my OCed 3570k and that maxes out at 65c with a Zalman CNPS9900 Max. I like the armour for the clean looks and soon with a water cooler it should look even better.


Are you running the small fans provided with the motherboard? I remember reading online that running the board with the armor on _without_ the supplied fans results in higher temps than running with it off. Apart from my CPU fan, I only have two fans running, one sucking air in the front and another blowing it out the back.

Yes, the armor looks very nice, it's one of the reasons I chose this board


----------



## boilface

In this video the guy compares temps with and without the thermal armor. It's the P67 Sabertooth, but I presume the results would be similar...


----------



## OneGun

IMO the assist fans are definitely needed..


----------



## ToUtSi

Which are the best settings fir assist fans??
Here are my temps .....

AND my Build

ANY IDEAS????


----------



## Shadowline2553

Most of the time I have mine set to stay off unless the temps climb to over 45c.


----------



## ComputerMD82

Hi everyone, I have a question about the Sabertooth Z77 BIOS. I recently put my build together, the components are as follows:

Asus Sabertooth Z77
Intel i7-3770K (Stock for now)
Corsair H100i Liquid Cooler
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C9 (Running @ XMP 2400, 9-11-11-31)
2x OCZ Vertex 4 256GB SSD in Raid 0 (On Intel ports)
A bunch of HDD's (None connected right now)
LG BD-Burner
Corsair AX1200 PSU
eVGA GTX 680 GPU
Silverstone TJ04 Case
Creative Titanium HD Sound
Intel Pro 9401 Gigabit

OS: Windows 7 Pro x64

First thing I did was boot into BIOS (v1206 at the time) and set up the minimum. SATA to RAID, disabled Asus logo on Post, disabled onboard LAN and sound, disabled Network boot and changed boot order, and enablad XMP. Left everything else alone. I set up the RAID array, installed windows and all drivers, Intel utilities, etc. All files were the most updated possible, DLed directly from Asus/Intel/Creative/Nvidia, etc. All was working well. Now was the time to OC.

Being that I had the motherboard in my possession for about 8 months sealed, I figured I'd update the BIOS. I saw the newest v2003 on Asus' site. The flash went without a problem. Then I rebooted.

The computer will only boot into BIOS now, unless I select my RAID array from within the Boot Override menu in BIOS. I can't get the PC to boot into windows otherwise. I tried disabling all other boot options except the RAID array, tried disabling any option that looked like it might interfere with POST. Enabled the full boot process/post screen. No network boot or USB drive boot. Still Nada.

Any settings I may have missed?


----------



## KattzPC

Figure I would post a pic or two on my Sabertooth z77. It's still a work in progress, Still have a lot of work to do and stuff to get.


----------



## ervhamzz213

hi guys. i got a z77 sabertooth too.







it's an emergency upgrade, my asrock mobo's capacitor went boom and wouldn't power on, so i got myself a decent mobo and i'm loving it alot. the only thing i hate is dust since it's under my desk.









here's my gay pink build. going for red black but still components are not yet complete.


the case i'm working on right now. the red stripes are now red carbon fiber.


----------



## ToUtSi

Quote:


> Most of the time I have mine set to stay off unless the temps climb to over 45c.


Is there anybody with i5 3570?
I have my SSD in the back of motherboard is there any problem??


Aslo What else should i add to my build?
MY BUILD
Motherboard==> Asus Sabertooth Z77
Motherboard BIOS version==> American Megatrends Inc. 1805
Processor==> Intel Core i5 3570
Memory==> Kingstone D125AE0A 2x4gb
Video Card #1==> Gigabyte AMD RADEON HD 7870 GhZ Version
Hard Drive #1==> Intel 330 Series SSD 120gb 6Gb/s
Hard Drive #2==> Seagate Baracuda 500Gb
Case ==> Zalman Z11 Plus
Cooler==> Zalman LQ310
Power Supply ==> Corsair GS SERIES 700W
Operating System==> Windows 7 ultimate 64 bit


----------



## andjayik

I need help!! I went into msconfig to boot into safemode so I could uninstall something! Then I rebooted in safe mode again so I could turn off the safe mode in msconfig but I can't do anything cause I have no keyboard or mouse moment to login at the safemode screen!!!!


----------



## andjayik

I got in but now I have no USB support? Thing power up on boot but no USB works when windows come up? No mouse and keyboard? Can't even charge phone


----------



## ToUtSi

HEY GUYS !!!
ADD ME HERE!!!!
I AM LOOKING FOR RAMS (WHITE PLEASE







)


----------



## Grizzle

Hey all! I just registered and found this thread! Some really awesome stuff on here. This weekend I sat down and I've built my new rig with the Sabertooth Z77 and my god this motherboard is a beauty! Here are some pictures. Feed back is appreciated.

Specs:
Case: NZXT Switch 810 (Matte Black)
CPU: Intel i7 3770k Ivy Bridge
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengance (32GB Soon!)
GPU: MSI nVIDIA GTX670 Power Edition (From my previous build)
Mobo: ASUS Sabertooth Z77

Pictures:





_Taken with the Canon 7D_


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

Mine does occasionally, was wondering the same thing myself


----------



## senna89

thermal radar 2 is done on all asus motherboards or only with TUF products ?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> thermal radar 2 is done on all asus motherboards or only with TUF products ?


Just with the TUF series.


----------



## navit

Is anybody tried using the thermal radar vII on a z77 board yet or even the asus suite III?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> Is anybody tried using the thermal radar vII on a z77 board yet or even the asus suite III?


I haven't.. Will it even work?


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I haven't.. Will it even work?


I used thermal radar a long time ago just to see what it was like and it worked fine on this board.


----------



## navit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I haven't.. Will it even work?


I don't know, I think I will try tonight seeing how they are not updating for the z77 utilities to much these days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> I used thermal radar a long time ago just to see what it was like and it worked fine on this board.


i was referring to using the thermal 2 , it's new for the z 87 mobo


----------



## ToUtSi

How about new rams???
any suggestion ?? I have i5 3570


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

After owning this motherboard for a full year, i can say I am very pleased with it. It has handled everything i have thrown at it.

I've had an i5 2500k up to 5GHz on this motherboard with absolutely zero problems. I have now switched to a 3770k which is at 4.6GHz (Cooling holding me back for the most part). I plan to go full loop soon and will push it much further.

The 2 TUF Fans that come with the motherboard haven't made a peep since i installed them day 1. They're still spinning max speed as i type this with zero problems, Maybe i just got a really lucky batch lol.

Everything in my signature i've had for a year + now, Other than my 3770k, which i got about 4ish maybe 5 months ago.

I know for a fact i can overclock my 3770k much further, but not with the cooling i have. As of right now when i run IBT or any Linpack with a custom setting i hit 95c (Which really isn't that bad for pushing 1.350v into it with a H100) I'm hoping to see that temp drop at least 15-20c with a real loop


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grizzle*
> 
> Hey all! I just registered and found this thread! Some really awesome stuff on here. This weekend I sat down and I've built my new rig with the Sabertooth Z77 and my god this motherboard is a beauty! Here are some pictures. Feed back is appreciated.
> 
> Specs:
> Case: NZXT Switch 810 (Matte Black)
> CPU: Intel i7 3770k Ivy Bridge
> CPU Cooler: Corsair H80
> RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengance (32GB Soon!)
> GPU: MSI nVIDIA GTX670 Power Edition (From my previous build)
> Mobo: ASUS Sabertooth Z77
> 
> Pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with the Canon 7D


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> After owning this motherboard for a full year, i can say I am very pleased with it. It has handled everything i have thrown at it.
> 
> I've had an i5 2500k up to 5GHz on this motherboard with absolutely zero problems. I have now switched to a 3770k which is at 4.6GHz (Cooling holding me back for the most part). I plan to go full loop soon and will push it much further.
> 
> The 2 TUF Fans that come with the motherboard haven't made a peep since i installed them day 1. They're still spinning max speed as i type this with zero problems, Maybe i just got a really lucky batch lol.
> 
> Everything in my signature i've had for a year + now, Other than my 3770k, which i got about 4ish maybe 5 months ago.
> 
> I know for a fact i can overclock my 3770k much further, but not with the cooling i have. As of right now when i run IBT or any Linpack with a custom setting i hit 95c (Which really isn't that bad for pushing 1.350v into it with a H100) I'm hoping to see that temp drop at least 15-20c with a real loop


Congrats to both of you on your mobos.







I've had two Sabertooth X58 & Z77 now. They have performed as well for me.

Noticed it's BOTH your first post on OCN.....welcome aboard gentlemen.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I don't know, I think I will try tonight seeing how they are not updating for the z77 utilities to much these days.
> i was referring to using the thermal 2 , it's new for the z 87 mobo


Please let me know how it turns out..


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navit*
> 
> I don't know, I think I will try tonight seeing how they are not updating for the z77 utilities to much these days.
> i was referring to using the thermal 2 , it's new for the z 87 mobo


I already tried it a few days ago, The Thermal Radar 2 doesnt work for Z77, the Asus AI Suite 3 updates everything i have from AI Suite 2 but for the Thermal radar 2 it show unknown application in the AI toolbar and when i click it, doesnt open and shows an error stating something like thermal radar 2 is for mobo sabertooth z87, also the AI Suite 3 doesnt uninstall AI Suite 2 it installs on top of ai suite 2, i had a hard time removing everything, either using ai suite 3 o ai suite 2 to uninstall the apps both will stay in add or remove programs, i had to use asus ai suite remover that i found in ROG forum using google and im just leaving the pc with AI Suite 2, it works fine, unless asus updates these softwares for sabertooth z77 owners.


----------



## navit

Well that sucks


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> I already tried it a few days ago, The Thermal Radar 2 doesnt work for Z77, the Asus AI Suite 3 updates everything i have from AI Suite 2 but for the Thermal radar 2 it show unknown application in the AI toolbar and when i click it, doesnt open and shows an error stating something like thermal radar 2 is for mobo sabertooth z87, also the AI Suite 3 doesnt uninstall AI Suite 2 it installs on top of ai suite 2, i had a hard time removing everything, either using ai suite 3 o ai suite 2 to uninstall the apps both will stay in add or remove programs, i had to use asus ai suite remover that i found in ROG forum using google and im just leaving the pc with AI Suite 2, it works fine, unless asus updates these softwares for sabertooth z77 owners.


Thank you for letting us know..


----------



## rdysan

Hi all,

Quick question, if I may. I have a Sabertooth Z77 that I put into my system in Sept last year. I am currently using the original BIOS that was provided with the CDs when I purchased the mobo. The BIOS is 1015, dated 05/02/2012. I'd like to know whether I should upgrade to the latest version of the BIOS as a matter of course, or if I should stick with my current BIOS as it seems to be working okay (apart from the occasional 'llllonggg' waits for reboots with just the splash screen showing.

I'd very much appreciate your advice with this. Many thanks!

Rod.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdysan*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Quick question, if I may. I have a Sabertooth Z77 that I put into my system in Sept last year. I am currently using the original BIOS that was provided with the CDs when I purchased the mobo. The BIOS is 1015, dated 05/02/2012. I'd like to know whether I should upgrade to the latest version of the BIOS as a matter of course, or if I should stick with my current BIOS as it seems to be working okay (apart from the occasional 'llllonggg' waits for reboots with just the splash screen showing.
> 
> I'd very much appreciate your advice with this. Many thanks!
> 
> Rod.


I'm still on 1908 because I haven't updated yet. But, I haven't had any issues with any of the BIOSs so far. IIRC I think it was 1504 that helped big time with RAM overclocking for me. The rest didn't have any major improvements as far as I could see...but, they didn't cause any issues either.









---

Edit: and I see it's your first post. Welcome aboard, Rod!


----------



## 420Killah

Quick question, I'm planning on getting the Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I had/ have plans on vinyl wrapping the thermal armor (I dont want to paint it because I change my mind a lot) If I do this how will the vinyl stand around the heatsinks? Would it bubble up and melt from the temps? If someone could advise me on how to do this correctly it would be very much appricated


----------



## AgentSquirrel

After an initial install issue, I am up and running. Anyone tell me what to install on AI Suite?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgentSquirrel*
> 
> After an initial install issue, I am up and running. Anyone tell me what to install on AI Suite?


I have everything installed on AI suite but i only use Thermal Radar..


----------



## rdysan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I'm still on 1908 because I haven't updated yet. But, I haven't had any issues with any of the BIOSs so far. IIRC I think it was 1504 that helped big time with RAM overclocking for me. The rest didn't have any major improvements as far as I could see...but, they didn't cause any issues either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> Edit: and I see it's your first post. Welcome aboard, Rod!


Thanks Francis! I think I'll give the latest a go.

Edit - I did run 2003 and it has been running fine now for most of the day. Seems genuinely stable. No issues with installed hardware as yet (I was worried it might mess with my Revodrive as I did have some teething problems with the mobo and this initially).


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Quick question, I'm planning on getting the Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I had/ have plans on vinyl wrapping the thermal armor (I dont want to paint it because I change my mind a lot) If I do this how will the vinyl stand around the heatsinks? Would it bubble up and melt from the temps? If someone could advise me on how to do this correctly it would be very much appricated


First , at what temps does vinyl melt or bubble at ? my mobo has never gone over 50degrees


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Quick question, I'm planning on getting the Asus Sabertooth Z77 and I had/ have plans on vinyl wrapping the thermal armor (I dont want to paint it because I change my mind a lot) If I do this how will the vinyl stand around the heatsinks? Would it bubble up and melt from the temps? If someone could advise me on how to do this correctly it would be very much appricated


Why would you want to vinyl wrap the armor anyway? It already has a sweet look to it. Unless you are going to use a color other than black, I see no benefit in covering it.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Why would you want to vinyl wrap the armor anyway? It already has a sweet look to it. Unless you are going to use a color other than black, I see no benefit in covering it.


silly question, he stated why he doesnt want to spray it, so next best thing is vinyl, and i take it he wont be using black otherwise he would not want to vinyl Dah.

vinyl it Gold or with some [email protected] Graphics !


----------



## 420Killah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> First , at what temps does vinyl melt or bubble at ? my mobo has never gone over 50degrees


I did a bit of looking around and found that some vinyl wraps can withstand temps from -20C - 96C (-4F to 206F) so the bubbling/ melting shouldnt happen, hopefully?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> Why would you want to vinyl wrap the armor anyway? It already has a sweet look to it. Unless you are going to use a color other than black, I see no benefit in covering it.


I want to wrap the armor because if I decide to put it into a different build with a different theme I want the option to change the colour without effort.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> silly question, he stated why he doesnt want to spray it, so next best thing is vinyl, and i take it he wont be using black otherwise he would not want to vinyl Dah.
> 
> vinyl it Gold or with some [email protected] Graphics !


Im going for a matt white vinyl for the armor, psu cover (I'll be making a new psu cover when I can get my hands on some tools) and hdd bay cover. I was thinking about doing a small bit more graffiti on the inside of the case? Ive been dabbling in the graffiti scene for the past few years you could say


----------



## AgentSquirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I have everything installed on AI suite but i only use Thermal Radar..


Thanks, Im ready to finish this off and start installling my software this weekend. Going from an old core 2, Im looking forward to running a couple of favorite games


----------



## euan26

I recently updated my bios to 2003. I'm getting this slight beeping noise now whenever I move my mouse. Its really faint and its coming from the motherboard. Does anyone know of a fix for this?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euan26*
> 
> I recently updated my bios to 2003. I'm getting this slight beeping noise now whenever I move my mouse. Its really faint and its coming from the motherboard. Does anyone know of a fix for this?


Remove your mb speaker?I don't have mine on is there any reason I should?


----------



## euan26

Ok now I'm really confused. I removed my mother board speaker and its still making the noise. So that rules out the speaker....


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euan26*
> 
> Ok now I'm really confused. I removed my mother board speaker and its still making the noise. So that rules out the speaker....


well then what the heck is beeping?


----------



## euan26

It only beeps when I move my mouse and its definately coming from the motherboard area. I disabled the two motherboard fans and the beeping continued!! So that rules out any weird fan noises...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euan26*
> 
> It only beeps when I move my mouse and its definately coming from the motherboard area. I disabled the two motherboard fans and the beeping continued!! So that rules out any weird fan noises...


Are your speakers on when this happens?Is your mouse just squeaky?


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euan26*
> 
> I recently updated my bios to 2003. I'm getting this slight beeping noise now whenever I move my mouse. Its really faint and its coming from the motherboard. Does anyone know of a fix for this?


where'd you download 2003 from?


----------



## euan26

I downloaded them from here https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36
Its not coming our of my speakers as I've disabled them all and its still making the sound. It only happens when I move my mouse, and its definitely coming from the motherboard area. Really weird!
My cpu on task manager has a small spike on the graph whenever I move the mouse and it makes the sound.
The mouse I have is the logitech g9 and its not making any noises. I've had it for about 5 years and never had this issue.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *euan26*
> 
> I downloaded them from here https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#support_Download_36
> Its not coming our of my speakers as I've disabled them all and its still making the sound. It only happens when I move my mouse, and its definitely coming from the motherboard area. Really weird!
> My cpu on task manager has a small spike on the graph whenever I move the mouse and it makes the sound.
> The mouse I have is the logitech g9 and its not making any noises. I've had it for about 5 years and never had this issue.


Is it your PSU fan spinning up.. Cause from me just moving my mouse my AX850 fan spins up.. Maybe you got a squeaky psu fan..


----------



## dymmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AerieAngel*
> 
> Just wondering if someone can help. I noticed a few posts in the 254 pages of this thread of the VGA LED illuminated when trying to boot from iGPU. I can only boot with a dedicated GPU. I have no options in BIOS for selecting which graphics to use.
> Also, all of my multiplier settings in the BIOS have disappeared. They are completely missing. OC Tuner runs still and Turbo mode functions although you wouldn't know it as there is no feedback in BIOS as to what the settings are. I noticed in some posts here of a stuck multiplier of 35 and I seem to have similar symptoms.
> I looked in Turbo V Evo in AI Suite II and I no longer have the CPU tabs to set the multiplier of each core there either. Completely disappeared.
> 
> I am running 1504 BIOS and have cleared it, updated it through AI Suite, updated through EZ Flash in BIOS, no effect. Reverted to 14xx BIOS... no effect. Upgraded back to 1504... no effect.
> 
> I have tried another CPU and no luck... no effect. I have tried different RAM... no effect. I already RMA-ed the board once, but received it back with no indication of anything was repaired on it. No notes, nothing. I'm not sure how this issue could be missed with even standard testing of the board. I have already applied for another RMA, but I just don't know what to do from here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


did you get this sorted ? I am experiencing similar, all of a sudden after Windows updated itself. Maybe just the straw that broke the camels back as they say. Is RMAíng as much of a nightmare as people say ? Really not looking forward to this !


----------



## dymmy

In the event of needing a new BIOS chip due to corruption how do you change the chip once you have one ?


----------



## jktmas

hey can anyone let me know how hard it is to remove the thermal armor? i have a white case and i was considering painting it white, and what kind of paint is the best.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> hey can anyone let me know how hard it is to remove the thermal armor? i have a white case and i was considering painting it white, and what kind of paint is the best.


There is just like 8 screws on the back. Very simple. Go with some halfwa decent multipurpose spraycans. ( krylon, rustoleum)

Give the armor a light sanding and give it a couple coats. Use primer if you want.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> hey can anyone let me know how hard it is to remove the thermal armor? i have a white case and i was considering painting it white, and what kind of paint is the best.


I don't know much about painting the thermal armor so I can't help you there. But, the thermal armor isn't hard to remove...it's just held on by some screws on the back side.

---

Edit: ninja'd


----------



## jktmas

Thanks guys +REP


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> hey can anyone let me know how hard it is to remove the thermal armor? i have a white case and i was considering painting it white, and what kind of paint is the best.


This is good paint..

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=401


----------



## jktmas

i would buy the paint at home depot / menards / fleet farm


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> i would buy the paint at home depot / menards / fleet farm


I got that paint i posted from home depot..Worked great on my hyperx ram fan..


----------



## jktmas

k thanks, and is there any good way to get the asst. fans done?


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I've been using this link for the last year

http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

to check for driver updates etc. I've checked other sites like MSI

http://www.msi.com/product/mb/Z77A-GD65.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win7%2064

And in some cases it appears they have more updated drivers. Is this anything i should be majorly concerned about? And is there a reason why Asus wouldn't be pushing updates if there are newer ones out there from Intel?.

The chipset driver itself is the same. But the USB 3.0 driver on MSi is more updated than the one on Asus. same as the Intel Rapid Storage AHCI driver for Sata controller.

I'm aware that Intel is the primary source of the drivers, But i don't want to use anything unless i know its 100% compatible with my motherboard, tested etc, not just the "Chipset".


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dymmy*
> 
> In the event of needing a new BIOS chip due to corruption how do you change the chip once you have one ?


Turn off PC & disconnect power cable. Carefully removed the BIOS chip from the socket using something like tweezer. Remember the orientation of the BIOS chip when inserting new BIOS chip because you can fried it.


----------



## jktmas

photo dump, dont rmember exactly what all i did but it looks better and better every month.
I also have my not exactly ocn flame in there


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> photo dump, dont rmember exactly what all i did but it looks better and better every month.
> I also have my not exactly ocn flame in there
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good bud..


----------



## Phexon

This week my GPU/motherboard started making a very annoying whine(coil whine?) noise whenever i booted into a game or anything to get some load on GPU and other then the noise everything seems to be running fine. This System i7 3770, Z77 Sabertooth, Thermaltake 850w and GTX 570 has been running whisper quiet for about 8+ months

This past Tues it started making the very loud whine/buzzing whenever i started a game and it just so happened that the same day i ordered a GTX 780 before i knew this was happening. So when that showed up on Friday I installed it and the noise seemed to get mildly worse so after listening to it i thought it was the PSU. Replaced that with a Corsair 850W and still get the annoying buzzing.

TLDR: PC started buzzing replaced both GPU and PSU and its still there.

Note: Only happens under load, Already wiped drivers/Precision X and this goes away completely if i limit my framerate.

HELP


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phexon*
> 
> This week my GPU/motherboard started making a very annoying whine(coil whine?) noise whenever i booted into a game or anything to get some load on GPU and other then the noise everything seems to be running fine. This System i7 3770, Z77 Sabertooth, Thermaltake 850w and GTX 570 has been running whisper quiet for about 8+ months
> 
> This past Tues it started making the very loud whine/buzzing whenever i started a game and it just so happened that the same day i ordered a GTX 780 before i knew this was happening. So when that showed up on Friday I installed it and the noise seemed to get mildly worse so after listening to it i thought it was the PSU. Replaced that with a Corsair 850W and still get the annoying buzzing.
> 
> TLDR: PC started buzzing replaced both GPU and PSU and its still there.
> 
> Note: Only happens under load, Already wiped drivers/Precision X and this goes away completely if i limit my framerate.
> 
> HELP


Could it be your Assist fans?Try turning them off..


----------



## Phexon

Negative i never used the tiny fans and iv disconnected all fans but the CPU and its still buzzing.


----------



## PTCB

Just want to confirm that Thermal Radar II definitely doesn't work with the board. IMO, I find that FanXpert II is better than the Thermal Radar I anyway.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phexon*
> 
> This week my GPU/motherboard started making a very annoying whine(coil whine?) noise whenever i booted into a game or anything to get some load on GPU and other then the noise everything seems to be running fine. This System i7 3770, Z77 Sabertooth, Thermaltake 850w and GTX 570 has been running whisper quiet for about 8+ months
> 
> This past Tues it started making the very loud whine/buzzing whenever i started a game and it just so happened that the same day i ordered a GTX 780 before i knew this was happening. So when that showed up on Friday I installed it and the noise seemed to get mildly worse so after listening to it i thought it was the PSU. Replaced that with a Corsair 850W and still get the annoying buzzing.
> 
> TLDR: PC started buzzing replaced both GPU and PSU and its still there.
> 
> Note: Only happens under load, Already wiped drivers/Precision X and this goes away completely if i limit my framerate.
> 
> HELP


It probably coming from the motherboard...which you already figure it out. Does it sound like coil whine? You'll need to RMA the motherboard.


----------



## andjayik

Will i notice any performance increase with my current psu enermax EG565P-VE and if i install a Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W??


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andjayik*
> 
> Will i notice any performance increase with my current psu enermax EG565P-VE and if i install a Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W??


No.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andjayik*
> 
> Will i notice any performance increase with my current psu enermax EG565P-VE and if i install a Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W??


No, the only time you're gonna see a stability/performance increase switching out a PSU is if your current one isn't able to handle the power draw from everything inside your case.

My personal opinion. Everyone from a gaming standpoint should be running a minimum of 750w 80+ Silver. If you plan to overclock at all id almost go as far to say its mandatory.

Looking at your current setup, i'm actually surprised your PSU can handle all of that


----------



## pwspong

I turned off my comp and the surge protector to switch around my monitors and plugged everything back in and switched on the surge protector and my computer wouldn't start. The motherboards (Sabertooth Z77) standby power (it was the SB_PWR light to be exact) LED was blinking green every 5 seconds or so.
So I unplugged computer turned off the surge for 30 seconds and then plugged it all back in and turned the surge protector back on and after hitting the power button a few times my computer finally started. I tested turning off everything a few times to see if i could replicate but it works flawlessly...thoughts on what occurred?

Everything is working flawlessly now fine.

This is the page in the manual that talks about the SB_PWR LED but says nothing about "blinking green"

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/415094/Asus-Sabertooth-Z77-User-Manual.html?page=36#manual


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> I turned off my comp and the surge protector to switch around my monitors and plugged everything back in and switched on the surge protector and my computer wouldn't start. The motherboards (Sabertooth Z77) standby power (it was the SB_PWR light to be exact) LED was blinking green every 5 seconds or so.
> So I unplugged computer turned off the surge for 30 seconds and then plugged it all back in and turned the surge protector back on and after hitting the power button a few times my computer finally started. I tested turning off everything a few times to see if i could replicate but it works flawlessly...thoughts on what occurred?
> 
> Everything is working flawlessly now fine.
> 
> This is the page in the manual that talks about the SB_PWR LED but says nothing about "blinking green"
> 
> http://www.manualslib.com/manual/415094/Asus-Sabertooth-Z77-User-Manual.html?page=36#manual


Keep an eye on your power supply. It might be on its way out. It could also be that the surge protector is too. (They don't last forever)


----------



## pwspong

Surge protector is brand new, the PSU is about 9 months old. Doubt its either. I thin the surge protector just reset itself.


----------



## CODELESS

hi there guys,

i have a slight problem

i installed my Second GTX 560 last week, and im busy SLIing it.
i think ever since i installed the second card and after a few hours of playing Dayz or watching movies my Motherboard Temp reaches Temps of 118 degrees.

this is the 1st time ever, everything els sits in the 20 - 40 degrees mark except the motherboard sensor.

has anyone els experienced this ?


----------



## 352227

Hi guys, it may have been asked already... but is there any faster driver or anything to install for my Sabertooth as my Vertex 4 120GB SSD is only getting 7.6 WEI on Windows 8, think I've seen it higher elsewhere?

Any help greatly appreciated - great thread!


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Hi guys, it may have been asked already... but is there any faster driver or anything to install for my Sabertooth as my Vertex 4 120GB SSD is only getting 7.6 WEI on Windows 8, think I've seen it higher elsewhere?
> 
> Any help greatly appreciated - great thread!


7.6 is pretty high already.

i have 2x 128GB in rais 0 and i think i got 8.0 for that


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> 7.6 is pretty high already.
> 
> i have 2x 128GB in rais 0 and i think i got 8.0 for that


Is raid worth it? Never tried it before, kinda scared of it really ah!









I thought i remembered having 7.8 with my SSD before - I know WEI isn't great but it can alert you that something obvious is wrong. Might try the Sabertooth Z77 install disc again for drivers.

Also on another note - I have a i7 3770K, I clicked on the faster preset in the EZ bios menu and its pushed it from 3.5 to 4.2 GHz. Can I do better or should I just leave it at that since it already up a decent chunk! (btw pushed WEI from 8.0 to 8.2 on RAM and CPU)


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Is your ssd firmware updated? I'm running mushkin chronos 120gb SSD 525/525 and score 7.8 on windows experience


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Is your ssd firmware updated? I'm running mushkin chronos 120gb SSD 525/525 and score 7.8 on windows experience


Scared to try update the firmware while it has the OS installed on it. Might even be impossible? 7.8 sounds better to me - I'll try some stuff later this evening.

Such a slllllllllllllllick looking mobo!


----------



## Acidsuicide

hi guys.. noob here. just thought i'd like to share my rig. not much really, but i'm happy with it. =)
(sorry for the crappy iPhone pics..)

i5 3570k @ 4.5 ghz
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Kingston Hyper x Black 2x4gb
Asus GTX 660
Corsair H60
Corsair AF 120 x 2
Corsair Force GS 128gb
WD Blue 1tb
Huntkey Jumper 550w
Modded Cooler Master Silencio 650


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> hi guys.. noob here. just thought i'd like to share my rig. not much really, but i'm happy with it. =)
> (sorry for the crappy iPhone pics..)
> 
> i5 3570k @ 4.5 ghz
> Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Kingston Hyper x Black 2x4gb
> Asus GTX 660
> Corsair H60
> Corsair AF 120 x 2
> Corsair Force GS 128gb
> WD Blue 1tb
> Huntkey Jumper 550w
> Modded Cooler Master Silencio 650
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome aboard!









Nice build! Very tidy and clean too.


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Welcome aboard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build! Very tidy and clean too.


thanks man. happy to be here!


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> thanks man. happy to be here!


Nice rig bud.. Welcome to the club..


----------



## jktmas

does anyone know what led i should get to replace the on board led, i want it to be white and i believe it is a 5mm led, but im not sure. any input would be helpfull.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> does anyone know what led i should get to replace the on board led, i want it to be white and i believe it is a 5mm led, but im not sure. any input would be helpfull.


If you find out let me know please.. I have a black white blue theme with one bright green led lol..


----------



## Pury

Hey guys, has anyone had crackling or popping noise in usb headsets (Logitech G35) after 12+ hours leaving the computer on?
I've been experiencing this audio issue since i built my pc (in my laptop HP dv7t-3000 didnt have this audio issues and that laptop sometimes i left it on for one week straight)
i googled about it and some people had same problem not only with this motherboard, it is said that the issue is caused by windows 7 audio enhancements (audiodg.exe), but i disabled all of them (enhancements in Playback device properties-enhancements tab) it fixed the issue in the 3.5mm audio plugs but the issue still there on my usb headsets, after leaving the computer on all night for any download im doing, next day when i go to use the computer i hear these crackling noises in logitech g35, the only fix for this is restarting the pc, is not a big deal to restart since i have my OS in the SSD, it takes about 35 seconds to restart but i wish to fix this issue if possible. If anyone knows anything regarding this, ill appreciate any help, thanks!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hey guys, has anyone had crackling or popping noise in usb headsets (Logitech G35) after 12+ hours leaving the computer on?
> I've been experiencing this audio issue since i built my pc (in my laptop HP dv7t-3000 didnt have this audio issues and that laptop sometimes i left it on for one week straight)
> i googled about it and some people had same problem not only with this motherboard, it is said that the issue is caused by windows 7 audio enhancements (audiodg.exe), but i disabled all of them (enhancements in Playback device properties-enhancements tab) it fixed the issue in the 3.5mm audio plugs but the issue still there on my usb headsets, after leaving the computer on all night for any download im doing, next day when i go to use the computer i hear these crackling noises in logitech g35, the only fix for this is restarting the pc, is not a big deal to restart since i have my OS in the SSD, it takes about 35 seconds to restart but i wish to fix this issue if possible. If anyone knows anything regarding this, ill appreciate any help, thanks!


hmmm it kind of sounds like a shielding issue or something with latency http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml. Are you using front ports or back ports? Have you updated your intel ports from intel's site?

Latest bios?
Latest realtek drivers straight from their site?

http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Headphones-Headsets-Microphones/G35-surround-sound-mode-crackle/td-p/1037107 (some people had to downgrade their drivers)


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> hmmm it kind of sounds like a shielding issue or something with latency http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml. Are you using front ports or back ports? Have you updated your intel ports from intel's site?
> 
> Latest bios?
> Latest realtek drivers straight from their site?
> 
> http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Headphones-Headsets-Microphones/G35-surround-sound-mode-crackle/td-p/1037107 (some people had to downgrade their drivers)


Do not use the 8.46 G35 drivers they're absolutely garbage.

Use their FTP site and download 8.45.88x86 or x64 depending on OS. 8.46 have a lot of audio issues.

ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/gaming/


----------



## Shadowline2553

I had that with a Sony wireless USB Headset before I purchased a Orion Pro...


----------



## KattzPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Hi guys, it may have been asked already... but is there any faster driver or anything to install for my Sabertooth as my Vertex 4 120GB SSD is only getting 7.6 WEI on Windows 8, think I've seen it higher elsewhere?
> 
> Any help greatly appreciated - great thread!


SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series Gave me a 7.9 in Win7 Ultimate 64bit

http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage/MZ-7PD256BW

Sequential Read Speed: Up to 540MB/s

Sequential Write Speed: Up to 520MB/s


----------



## [email protected]

Hmm might be my next SSD. I am still running the 830 Samsung version







Nice to know that SSD does justice!


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KattzPC*
> 
> SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series Gave me a 7.9 in Win7 Ultimate 64bit
> 
> http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage/MZ-7PD256BW
> 
> Sequential Read Speed: Up to 540MB/s
> 
> Sequential Write Speed: Up to 520MB/s


See it's your sixth post on OCN - welcome.







You got a very nice score on that.









My Samsung 840 PRO not quite as good as yours......



We love to see peoples rigs on OCN. Love to see your rig specs......*"How to put your Rig in your Sig"*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Hmm might be my next SSD. I am still running the 830 Samsung version
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice to know that SSD does justice!


Your Samsung 830 is still worthy.


----------



## Ash2097

Is there a TWCL option on the Sabertooth BIOS? If so where would I find it?

Here is mine:


----------



## KattzPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> See it's your sixth post on OCN - welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got a very nice score on that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Samsung 840 PRO not quite as good as yours......
> 
> 
> 
> We love to see peoples rigs on OCN. Love to see your rig specs......*"How to put your Rig in your Sig"*
> Your Samsung 830 is still worthy.


Thx Arizonian 8>)
Happy to be here, Glad this place is here, lots of info here to pick through.

The Read/Write stats of the 840 Pro, was taken from the website. As for my actual numbers, they are close to yours.


And Thank You for the Tip on how to add my Rig to my signature.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KattzPC*
> 
> Thx Arizonian 8>)
> Happy to be here, Glad this place is here, lots of info here to pick through.
> 
> The Read/Write stats of the 840 Pro, was taken from the website. As for my actual numbers, they are close to yours.
> 
> 
> And Thank You for the Tip on how to add my Rig to my signature.


Very nice rig at that.







Starting with your Sabertooth Z77 mobo.









Very similar to mine and great SSD score on both read/write.


----------



## KattzPC

Thx

I like the Chrome look I put on it. Would have been a lot better if i had used chrome paint. But when I tried, the chrome got killed by the clear coat i added (turned a dull glossy grey). So I decided to go and use what was available at the time, Foil Insulation Tape (Duct Tape), and no issues clear coating it. Big concern was a chrome/metal surface being exposed, so clear coat was a must.


----------



## Eze2kiel

[email protected] 1.150v
4x4GB [email protected]
[email protected]
CPU [email protected]


----------



## pwspong

This is the best I could tuck my USB 3.0 cable behind my GPU into the motherboard alot. I'm just worried that it could cause bending on my motherboard but I'm 99.9% sure it won't. Think I'm good or should I just take out the cord and forget about the 3.0 USB for the front panel of my corsair 550d .

Like I said I would say I'm 99.9% sure it's fine. Just want some feedback. Like since I have a single GPU could I put it in the second slot? I don't think this would help because its not the GPU that's the problem it is that the head of the 3.0 USB cable doesn't fit in that area so it has to go in at a slight angle

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/pwspong/image.jpg


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> hmmm it kind of sounds like a shielding issue or something with latency http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml. Are you using front ports or back ports? Have you updated your intel ports from intel's site?
> 
> Latest bios?
> Latest realtek drivers straight from their site?
> 
> http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Headphones-Headsets-Microphones/G35-surround-sound-mode-crackle/td-p/1037107 (some people had to downgrade their drivers)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Do not use the 8.46 G35 drivers they're absolutely garbage.
> 
> Use their FTP site and download 8.45.88x86 or x64 depending on OS. 8.46 have a lot of audio issues.
> 
> ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/gaming/


Thanks for the replies guys, for the latency software i will try that later and read it carefully, i have the latest driver from asus motherboard website, i have latest bios version 2003, i will try updating the drivers from the intel and and realtek websites, i read a bit on the logitech forum regarding g35 crackling noise and someone mentioned about using the headsets plugged in directly to the usb prot and not using a usb hub, right now im pluging the g35 on the benq monitor usb hub, i will try another port to check if something happens.
Regarding the Logitech software, im using the version 8.35.18 im not using any newer version, for the reason that i use the the g9x logitech mouse and using version 8.45 or 8.46 disables the logitech set point software and i use that software to set and or chnage profile setting on my my mouse and the logitech gaming software version 8.45 or 8.46 doesnt have that many options the logitech setpoint software has.
I will try the things you guys posted and i will reply for any change, thanks.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> This is the best I could tuck my USB 3.0 cable behind my GPU into the motherboard alot. I'm just worried that it could cause bending on my motherboard but I'm 99.9% sure it won't. Think I'm good or should I just take out the cord and forget about the 3.0 USB for the front panel of my corsair 550d .
> 
> Like I said I would say I'm 99.9% sure it's fine. Just want some feedback. Like since I have a single GPU could I put it in the second slot? I don't think this would help because its not the GPU that's the problem it is that the head of the 3.0 USB cable doesn't fit in that area so it has to go in at a slight angle
> 
> http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/pwspong/image.jpg


If you don't use the front 3.0s just unplug it..Stuff like that would drive me nuts also...


----------



## pwspong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> If you don't use the front 3.0s just unplug it..Stuff like that would drive me nuts also...


I don't think it's hurting my motherboard so I'm just going to leave it cause I used front USBs for my headphones and USB drive


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Is raid worth it? Never tried it before, kinda scared of it really ah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought i remembered having 7.8 with my SSD before - I know WEI isn't great but it can alert you that something obvious is wrong. Might try the Sabertooth Z77 install disc again for drivers.
> 
> Also on another note - I have a i7 3770K, I clicked on the faster preset in the EZ bios menu and its pushed it from 3.5 to 4.2 GHz. Can I do better or should I just leave it at that since it already up a decent chunk! (btw pushed WEI from 8.0 to 8.2 on RAM and CPU)


well think of it this way, if its in raid 0 you getting Twice the speed , also i like to think this is true , youe SSD will also last longer in raid 0 seing that half the data is being written to each drive, therefor less writes to each drive if that makes sence, i only have OS and main games on SSD, nothing else.

and yeah, Raid 0 is very nice, been running it since feb with no problems.

oh and my windows score is 8.1 on HDD and 8.0 on memory.


----------



## wsnnwa

Does anyone have any idea why I'm getting BSOD error 0x00000001 in regard to ntoskrnl.exe?

Yesterday I updated my BIOS to the latest one available from Asus's website and I was trying to overclock my CPU back to 4.5Ghz.


----------



## CODELESS

hi fellow Sabertoothies.

ok so i managed to solve the problem i had regarding the motherboard reporting a 119 degrees temp for the motherboard.

ill explain, the one day it reported mobo temps as 119 degrees and then a few days later it was reporting temps as -1.
so it kept throwing warnings regarding Voltages , my vcor come up once and my 12v,5v,and 3v also popped up warning of low and hi voltages.

i notices also that these messages only really started after i installed the lastes Alsuit.

so what i did was i uninstalled the latest alsuit and installed the version previous to the latest. whick sorted everything out, im not getting any of these warning about incorrect Temps and Voltages.
been 2 days now with no warning messages.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wsnnwa*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea why I'm getting BSOD error 0x00000001 in regard to ntoskrnl.exe?
> 
> Yesterday I updated my BIOS to the latest one available from Asus's website and I was trying to overclock my CPU back to 4.5Ghz.


try raising the voltage up.


----------



## wsnnwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> try raising the voltage up.


I'm running into a bunch of issues right now lol. I updated my BIOS to version 2003, at that point my overclock was no longer stable at 1.215v (It was before, 12hr Prime). Actually even running 1.23v hasn't been stable.

Now my BIOS isn't accepting any new OC profiles, I really have no idea whats going on. I'm thinking that my BIOS chip is going bad. I'm going to try to go back to BIOS 1504.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> This is the best I could tuck my USB 3.0 cable behind my GPU into the motherboard alot. I'm just worried that it could cause bending on my motherboard but I'm 99.9% sure it won't. Think I'm good or should I just take out the cord and forget about the 3.0 USB for the front panel of my corsair 550d .
> 
> Like I said I would say I'm 99.9% sure it's fine. Just want some feedback. Like since I have a single GPU could I put it in the second slot? I don't think this would help because its not the GPU that's the problem it is that the head of the 3.0 USB cable doesn't fit in that area so it has to go in at a slight angle
> 
> http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/pwspong/image.jpg


Someone else posted a while back in this thread with the same issue with that case. I think they ended up removing the rubber grommet and sanding the case down a bit. If you search for it, you should be able to find it.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> This is the best I could tuck my USB 3.0 cable behind my GPU into the motherboard alot. I'm just worried that it could cause bending on my motherboard but I'm 99.9% sure it won't. Think I'm good or should I just take out the cord and forget about the 3.0 USB for the front panel of my corsair 550d .
> 
> Like I said I would say I'm 99.9% sure it's fine. Just want some feedback. Like since I have a single GPU could I put it in the second slot? I don't think this would help because its not the GPU that's the problem it is that the head of the 3.0 USB cable doesn't fit in that area so it has to go in at a slight angle
> 
> http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/pwspong/image.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone else posted a while back in this thread with the same issue with that case. I think they ended up removing the rubber grommet and sanding the case down a bit. If you search for it, you should be able to find it.
Click to expand...

I believe they dremeled their case right where the chord is being pushed


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> I believe they dremeled their case right where the chord is being pushed


I found the posts: (finally)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4800_30#post_19310693

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4860_30#post_19314163

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/4860_30#post_19317811


----------



## Celisuis

Hey Everyone, had something strange happen with my ST Z77.

I used to be able to OC fine, and as you normally would via the CPU Multiplier etc.

Now, suddenly, I don't even have to options. I've uploaded some images for you to see for yourselves.

As you can see, I chose all 3 options and still nothing appeared.


----------



## badkarma3059

Random idea,
Anyone think the i/o shield for the z78 sabertooth will fit our z77s? kinda like the rear fan filter idea, though maybe upgrade the filter material.


----------



## wsnnwa

I reverted back to bios 1504. I can set OC profiles again. WOOT!!! Now lets get this baby back to 4.5ghz and In a couple of weeks up to 5.0ghz.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wsnnwa*
> 
> I reverted back to bios 1504. I can set OC profiles again. WOOT!!! Now lets get this baby back to 4.5ghz and In a couple of weeks up to 5.0ghz.


nice!! goodluck on the 5ghz. i have my 3770k @4.6ghz on 1.190v atm. i tried going for 5ghz but it's very hot not even my custom loop could handle it. 1.35v on 5ghz to go stable and a whooping 80*C on load.


----------



## Ash2097

Is there a TWCL memory option on the Sabertooth BIOS? If so where would I find it?


----------



## wsnnwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> nice!! goodluck on the 5ghz. i have my 3770k @4.6ghz on 1.190v atm. i tried going for 5ghz but it's very hot not even my custom loop could handle it. 1.35v on 5ghz to go stable and a whooping 80*C on load.


Wow you have a pretty golden chip. Yea If heat is an issue for me at 5Ghz then I'll just use it in the winter. I have a Kraken x60 now and will be running a Push/Pull config on it soon, so that will help a bit.


----------



## NitrousX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> nice!! goodluck on the 5ghz. i have my 3770k @4.6ghz on 1.190v atm. i tried going for 5ghz but it's very hot not even my custom loop could handle it. 1.35v on 5ghz to go stable and a whooping 80*C on load.


Wow that's a nice chip. What kind of temps are you seeing under full load? I need a whopping 1.376v for 4.6GHz and I easily hit 85-92c in Prime blend.


----------



## jktmas

i hate doing oc'ing in the summer, during the winter i have bellow freezing temps ( northern WI ) so summer makes me worried


----------



## ToUtSi

*HI there Guys ,
I need some help to design the new TUF theme for windows 7








If you want to help or suggests something PM ME
That is my job till now i need icons,mouse,task bar and rocket dock skin







*


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToUtSi*
> 
> *HI there Guys ,
> I need some help to design the new TUF theme for windows 7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to help or suggests something PM ME
> That is my job till now i need icons,mouse,task bar and rocket dock skin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Sweet. Thanx for the work. Are you gonna post it here when you are done with it?


----------



## ToUtSi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Sweet. Thanx for the work. Are you gonna post it here when you are done with it?


Yeah but its a lot of work i need some help any1 good at photoshop will help !!!


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

I asked this before and didn't get a response. Is there any reason i shouldn't download chipset drivers directly from intels website vs the asus download page.

http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download

Some of the drivers on intels website are far more up to date. And the ones on asus are dated by almost a year now


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I asked this before and didn't get a response. Is there any reason i shouldn't download chipset drivers directly from intels website vs the asus download page.
> 
> http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download
> 
> Some of the drivers on intels website are far more up to date. And the ones on asus are dated by almost a year now


It's been answered previously many times in this thread. Yes, getting drivers from Intel's website is okay and often better than the ones on the Asus site. Most drivers on the Asus site go out of date after a few months of the product being out. I only really check for bios updates or utility updates (like AISUITE) on their site.


----------



## ToUtSi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> It's been answered previously many times in this thread. Yes, getting drivers from Intel's website is okay and often better than the ones on the Asus site. Most drivers on the Asus site go out of date after a few months of the product being out. I only really check for bios updates or utility updates (like AISUITE) on their site.


From which site can i download the lastest cause i am downloading from asus official site too :/


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Wow that's a nice chip. What kind of temps are you seeing under full load? I need a whopping 1.376v for 4.6GHz and I easily hit 85-92c in Prime blend.


52*C on 100% load







i'm using corsair h100i and i'm going for a custom cpu loop. i guess i was lucky with my video cards too.







i'm using 2 hd 7950 dc2t v2 from asus and it was damn hot on crossfire. i tried to lower he voltage and tune the core up @ 925 and memory @ 1350. 925/1350 isn't bad for 950v on each card i guess.







i get 60*C on primary card on load.







6 hours of continious gaming.









my current setup.

both pci-e connectors are now sleeved. next i'm murdering the bay area and make a custom mounter for my d5 pump and reservoir.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> 52*C on 100% load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm using corsair h100i and i'm going for a custom cpu loop. i guess i was lucky with my video cards too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm using 2 hd 7950 dc2t v2 from asus and it was damn hot on crossfire. i tried to lower he voltage and tune the core up @ 925 and memory @ 1350. 925/1350 isn't bad for 950v on each card i guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i get 60*C on primary card on load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 hours of continious gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my current setup.
> 
> both pci-e connectors are now sleeved. next i'm murdering the bay area and make a custom mounter for my d5 pump and reservoir.


Have you delidded that chip? I think once that's been done you should be able to have it at 5GHz with comfortable temperatures. That's only if you feel safe delidding though.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> Have you delidded that chip? I think once that's been done you should be able to have it at 5GHz with comfortable temperatures. That's only if you feel safe delidding though.


noooooo!!! i don't feel like delidding the cpu. i'm good with 4.6ghz. i only play games and mod my pc.







i only benchmark for stress testing my hardware.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToUtSi*
> 
> From which site can i download the lastest cause i am downloading from asus official site too :/


www.Intel.com click support click downloads and drivers

In the search box, I type

*Chipset Device Software (INF Update Utility)* to get the latest chipset drivers. I download the .zip file and unzip and install using command line.
http://www.wilderssecurity.com/showthread.php?t=328704 (This link has a good walk through and explanation + comments) I only use the -overall switch and not the overide switch. If you use the -overide switch it will install over the rapid storage drivers.

*Rapid Storage* to get the Latest AHCI SATA drivers. There's raid drivers if you are using raid as well.

*Intel Usb 3.0 driver* to get the latest for the intel usb 3 ports.

*network adapter* to get the latest ethernet driver. I do a custom install and don't install the extra proset junk.

That's pretty much it. The only other you might need is the graphics driver if you are using onboard video or MVP, but I am not.


----------



## Ziver

Guys,
Can i use Noctua 40mm fans instead of 35 mm asus fans ?


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziver*
> 
> Guys,
> Can i use Noctua 40mm fans instead of 35 mm asus fans ?


I don't think you can, I have a feeling only 35mm fans will fit on the board to cool the VRMs and such.


----------



## Volvic

My current setup ... Just average but I'm happy with this.


3770k @ 4.4GHz
2 x 8GB 1600MHz
6 x HDDs & 1 x SSD











I don't know why but the Assistant Fan 1 not working:

http://oi43.tinypic.com/2zfuz35.jpg

Any suggestions?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> I don't think you can, I have a feeling only 35mm fans will fit on the board to cool the VRMs and such.


One will only fit in one spot. Search the thread for the posts about it.


----------



## cam51037

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> One will only fit in one spot. Search the thread for the posts about it.


What do you mean? I'm confused now.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam51037*
> 
> What do you mean? I'm confused now.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/5520_30#post_19689504

It will fit on the back panel under the thermal armor with a little effort. You cannot fit a 40mm fan assist fan near the PCIE slot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volvic*
> 
> I don't know why but the Assistant Fan 1 not working:
> Any suggestions?


Does the fan work in Assist fan 2 spot? Is the fan set to off in the bios? Does the 2nd assist fan work in the assist fan 1 slot?


----------



## Solonowarion

Chop up the thermal armor a bit?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToUtSi*
> 
> From which site can i download the lastest cause i am downloading from asus official site too :/


https://www.slimwareutilities.com/slimdrivers.php

This free software will tell you which drivers are out of date. You can then google and download them yourself or it can do it for you.

Its really just the Intel Lan driver, Intel HD 4000 graphics, the chipset and the sound driver.

Lan
http://www.intel.com/support/ethernetcomponents/controllers/82579/sb/CS-032239.htm
HD 4000
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Detail_Desc.aspx?agr=Y&DwnldID=22605&keyword=Intel+Hd+4000&lang=eng
Realtek HD audio
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false


----------



## ToUtSi

*I AM LOOKING FOR GUYS GOOD AT PHOTOSHOP TO HELP WITH ASUS TUF THEME!!!!*


----------



## ivoryg37

I recently switch from my MPower to the sabertooth. What's the best over clock option that will allow the processor to down clock when idle? I'm running bios 2003. I currently just adjusted the turbo ratio to 5ghz and put the CPU voltage manually @ 1.42v. Is this a good way to do it that will allow it to also down clock at idle?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I recently switch from my MPower to the sabertooth. What's the best over clock option that will allow the processor to down clock when idle? I'm running bios 2003. I currently just adjusted the turbo ratio to 5ghz and put the CPU voltage manually @ 1.42v. Is this a good way to do it that will allow it to also down clock at idle?


Processor will downclock if EIST is enabled. If you're looking for power saving while browsing/watching movie/listening to music/checking email then you need to enabled C1E/C3/C6. With these, power saving will work even if you use manual voltage. However, depends on the quality of your chip, these can cause instability.


----------



## ivoryg37

OK thanks for the information. I will try that later tonight


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

It seems that even if you disable EIST in the bios. If you intend to OC on this motherboard its gonna enable it on a hardware level because it needs to, in order to OC the turbo multiplier. You can check this yourself with with Real Temp.


----------



## ivoryg37

I enabled C state support, C1E, and etc. However, it only downclocks to 1600mhz but the voltage stays at 1.42 even at idle. Any suggestion?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I enabled C state support, C1E, and etc. However, it only downclocks to 1600mhz but the voltage stays at 1.42 even at idle. Any suggestion?


did you set a offset?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I enabled C state support, C1E, and etc. However, it only downclocks to 1600mhz but the voltage stays at 1.42 even at idle. Any suggestion?


Because you're using manual voltage, offset if you want a dynamic vcore.


----------



## Solonowarion

Almost there.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I enabled C state support, C1E, and etc. However, it only downclocks to 1600mhz but the voltage stays at 1.42 even at idle. Any suggestion?


That because you're using manual voltage. That's why it stays at 1.42V. If you want dynamic Vcore, use offset voltage. If C-States are enabled, even with manual voltage, CPU power consumption is actually lowered when idle. If you have Kill-A-Watt, you could see yourself power consumption when idle, when using manual voltage with C-States enabled.


----------



## flv1333

Hi Guys,

I have a bit of a problem. I just went from a 3570K to a 3770K on my Sabertooth board, I had removed the RAM to aid in getting the water cooler block off a bit easier. All went well with the installation and the CPU and block are seated properly, however the PC didn't POST. I managed to narrow it down to the RAM slots A1+A2.

Here is what I have tried so far:

-Tested all Ram sticks for functionality, OK
-Boot with only one stick banks B1+B2 booted ok, A1+A2 nothing
-Tried A2+B2 nothing
-Tried all slots and resetting the BIOS back to default, nothing
-mem OK! botton, useless.
-BIOS Update to v2003, nothing

I am a bit of a loss, anything else I can try? If not... how would I go about getting this board RMA'd?

Any help would be much appreciated!

-flv


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I have a bit of a problem. I just went from a 3570K to a 3770K on my Sabertooth board, I had removed the RAM to aid in getting the water cooler block off a bit easier. All went well with the installation and the CPU and block are seated properly, however the PC didn't POST. I managed to narrow it down to the RAM slots A1+A2.
> 
> Here is what I have tried so far:
> 
> -Tested all Ram sticks for functionality, OK
> -Boot with only one stick banks B1+B2 booted ok, A1+A2 nothing
> -Tried A2+B2 nothing
> -Tried all slots and resetting the BIOS back to default, nothing
> -mem OK! botton, useless.
> -BIOS Update to v2003, nothing
> 
> I am a bit of a loss, anything else I can try? If not... how would I go about getting this board RMA'd?
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated!
> 
> -flv


I would search this thread and see if you damaged some traces. Totally dubbed did and had some close up pictures. If they are damaged, it won't be covered under RMA, but you may be able to fix them yourself.


----------



## MKHunt

Two other possibilities:

Common: bent pin in socket

Uncommon: dud IMC


----------



## Acidsuicide

Good day!


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I have a bit of a problem. I just went from a 3570K to a 3770K on my Sabertooth board, I had removed the RAM to aid in getting the water cooler block off a bit easier. All went well with the installation and the CPU and block are seated properly, however the PC didn't POST. I managed to narrow it down to the RAM slots A1+A2.
> 
> Here is what I have tried so far:
> 
> -Tested all Ram sticks for functionality, OK
> -Boot with only one stick banks B1+B2 booted ok, A1+A2 nothing
> -Tried A2+B2 nothing
> -Tried all slots and resetting the BIOS back to default, nothing
> -mem OK! botton, useless.
> -BIOS Update to v2003, nothing
> 
> I am a bit of a loss, anything else I can try? If not... how would I go about getting this board RMA'd?
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated!
> 
> -flv


you might want to try clearing the CMOS.. since you put in a new processor. i had these issue before, on different boards though. you might want to give it a whirl before sending it back.


----------



## flv1333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> Two other possibilities:
> 
> Common: bent pin in socket
> 
> Uncommon: dud IMC


Found the problem. Somehow I managed to nick 2 pins on the CPU socket. RMA will not be an option then I guess. Thanks for your help! +rep


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> Found the problem. Somehow I managed to nick 2 pins on the CPU socket. RMA will not be an option then I guess. Thanks for your help! +rep


Have you tried bending them back yet?. 6 months ago on my saber I bent about 8 pins taking out the socket protector ironically enough.

Used a thin empty mechanical pencil to slide over the pin and move it. Also a needle and magnifying glas.


----------



## flv1333

yeah tried that after I have seen that they are bent. No Luck though. Ill be getting another board, I like my sabertooth.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flv1333*
> 
> yeah tried that after I have seen that they are bent. No Luck though. Ill be getting another board, I like my sabertooth.


Brutal, i just experienced bent pins myself about a week ago (user error, don't ever try to remount a cpu on 2hrs of sleep). My new one should be here in the next couple hours. I saved my TUF fans from my old Sabertooth because they ran for a year straight without making a peep (apparently that's pretty rare, as ALMOST everyone complains about them either dying or making a loud noise)


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Brutal, i just experienced bent pins myself about a week ago (user error, don't ever try to remount a cpu on 2hrs of sleep). My new one should be here in the next couple hours. I saved my TUF fans from my old Sabertooth because they ran for a year straight without making a peep (apparently that's pretty rare, as ALMOST everyone complains about them either dying or making a loud noise)


I have heard people say that these fans are loud.. I cant hear mine at all . I just thought the other guys were just really sensitive to noise.. I guess I just got good fans also..


----------



## Szarky

hello!
Since 3 week I was happy user Asus Z77 - now im mad, why?
Today I installed BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro c1 and when I turning computer on, one short beep, discs starts and then: one long and four short beeps (ofc all time black screen)
I read that is problem with RAM, but I installed the same ram that was installed before cooler instalation.
My PC:

CPU: Intel i7 3770K @ 3,5GHz
GPU: 2x ASUS GTX 660 DirectCU II OC 2GB DDR5
PSU: Evga SuperNOVA 750W
HDD1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB (OS)
HDD 2/3: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 (1 SATA2 2. Sata3)
RAM: I'm using only one stick but, i've got 2: Patriot PGD316G1333ELK


----------



## EvilMuffin

I built a new system around the sabertooth Z77. I have the I5-3570k, eight gigs of corsair ram compatible with the board. and I am using an evga gtx 670, the 4 gig version.

I am having a really strange issue. When I turn the machine on for first use of the day, it works great for a few, can play a game, whatever, eventually it locks up, the pointer jerks around and it eventually freezes until I reset it. After that however, it will work for the rest of the way with no issues, as long as I leave it on after that reset. Until the next time it gets turned off. It also wont stay asleep, even with all USB devices unplugged.

These are the only two issues with the machine, after the lock up, it will pass Prime 95, 3dmark, any tests I can throw at it.

Anyone who can help me begin to diagnose it would be very appreciated.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> hello!
> Since 3 week I was happy user Asus Z77 - now im mad, why?
> Today I installed BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro c1 and when I turning computer on, one short beep, discs starts and then: one long and four short beeps (ofc all time black screen)
> I read that is problem with RAM, but I installed the same ram that was installed before cooler instalation.
> My PC:
> 
> CPU: Intel i7 3770K @ 3,5GHz
> GPU: 2x ASUS GTX 660 DirectCU II OC 2GB DDR5
> PSU: Evga SuperNOVA 750W
> HDD1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB (OS)
> HDD 2/3: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 (1 SATA2 2. Sata3)
> RAM: I'm using only one stick but, i've got 2: Patriot PGD316G1333ELK


could be bent pins in the dimm sockets, esd damage to the ram, dimms aren't fully seated, etc
got any spare dimms to drop in and check?
have you tried running a single dimm in each socket?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilMuffin*
> 
> I built a new system around the sabertooth Z77. I have the I5-3570k, eight gigs of corsair ram compatible with the board. and I am using an evga gtx 670, the 4 gig version.
> 
> I am having a really strange issue. When I turn the machine on for first use of the day, it works great for a few, can play a game, whatever, eventually it locks up, the pointer jerks around and it eventually freezes until I reset it. After that however, it will work for the rest of the way with no issues, as long as I leave it on after that reset. Until the next time it gets turned off. It also wont stay asleep, even with all USB devices unplugged.
> 
> These are the only two issues with the machine, after the lock up, it will pass Prime 95, 3dmark, any tests I can throw at it.
> 
> Anyone who can help me begin to diagnose it would be very appreciated.


i get the same problem, yet i have found the cause to be my Graphics card hitting temps of between 70 and 80 degrees (after about 30min of playing),
i use msi afterburner to check the temps, when my fans on graphics cards are set to auto they dont scale according to Temp, so when ever i play my games i turn my fan setting to manual and 80% it keeps my cards temp down to 50-60 degrees and i dont get the lockup,

check your temps while you play your games and see if my method works and get back to us.


----------



## jjkusaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> hello!
> Since 3 week I was happy user Asus Z77 - now im mad, why?
> Today I installed BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro c1 and when I turning computer on, one short beep, discs starts and then: one long and four short beeps (ofc all time black screen)
> I read that is problem with RAM, but I installed the same ram that was installed before cooler instalation.
> My PC:
> 
> CPU: Intel i7 3770K @ 3,5GHz
> GPU: 2x ASUS GTX 660 DirectCU II OC 2GB DDR5
> PSU: Evga SuperNOVA 750W
> HDD1: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB (OS)
> HDD 2/3: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 (1 SATA2 2. Sata3)
> RAM: I'm using only one stick but, i've got 2: Patriot PGD316G1333ELK


one long beep + four short beeps is a a general hardware failure. Are there any red lights on the motherboard (page 2-16 in the manual). Did you hook everything up correctly (ram, gpu, cpu fan wire to proper header)? Grounded yourself to help prevent electrostatic (I never do but some say you should).


----------



## PainKiller89

I just installed the mobo and cpu. Did a clean install, i installed chipset from asus site 9.3 version is that correct? i am also looking for sata driver can someone help me out.

Thanks


----------



## EvilMuffin

My temps arent getting to high at all, as I said, after the first lock up of the day, I can literally play anything nonstop.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> I just installed the mobo and cpu. Did a clean install, i installed chipset from asus site 9.3 version is that correct? i am also looking for sata driver can someone help me out.
> 
> Thanks


in the support section from the motherboard on asus.com, there's a full collection of all the drivers you need, as well as several you don't. naviagate to here, input your os and scroll down to the 'SATA'menu item. afterwards, you can run slimdrivers to verfiy that all your drivers are up-to-date.
another option is to directly go to the various manufacturer websites to get the drivers. though it will be a pain in the butt to track them all down, your drivers will be more current right off the bat, and you probably won't get anything newer from running slimdrivers.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilMuffin*
> 
> My temps arent getting to high at all, as I said, after the first lock up of the day, I can literally play anything nonstop.


dont know then,
have you tried reinstalling your OS ?


----------



## PainKiller89

Which bios are you guys on?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> Which bios are you guys on?


the newest..2003 i believe..


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> I just installed the mobo and cpu. Did a clean install, i installed chipset from asus site 9.3 version is that correct? i am also looking for sata driver can someone help me out.
> 
> Thanks


If you used Intel it would be so much easier. I'm slightly confused with the way AMD provides chipset driver updates. They range from 922mb on asus website to 22.6mb on AMD website lol


----------



## saipan

the oldest, prob. never update. causes more problems than what it does


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

i actually noticed quite a difference going from 9.3 chipset drivers to 9.4, But it also could of been replacing my first sabertooth with a brand new one. I got the first one like 2 weeks after it came out, so it might of had problems.


----------



## gabecubano14

Anyone have any recommendations for the best AHCI drivers? I'm currently using the newest one, 12.6.3.1000 and things seem to be a little sluggish. What does everyone use on here? I would appreciate the help.

thanks,
gabe


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabecubano14*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for the best AHCI drivers? I'm currently using the newest one, 12.6.3.1000 and things seem to be a little sluggish. What does everyone use on here? I would appreciate the help.
> 
> thanks,
> gabe


Intel Rapid Storage drivers assuming you are using your Intel ports and not the AsMedia ones.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabecubano14*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for the best AHCI drivers? I'm currently using the newest one, 12.6.3.1000 and things seem to be a little sluggish. What does everyone use on here? I would appreciate the help.
> 
> thanks,
> gabe


Slugish could be a multitude of things. Try running a disk benchmark and comparing ahci driver versions with the results. Firmware updates for your SSD / Mechanical drive could also contribute.

I use ATTO 2.46

Personally i saw a gain after updating to the newest ones vs supplied ASUS website ones.

And yeah make sure you're using the Intel Sata 3 or 2 ports and not Asmedia. Intel are x2 brown (Sata 3) and x4 black (Sata 2). Asmedia is x2 white


----------



## gabecubano14

I am using the regular intel ports with my ssds. its just the ahci drivers it seems. i have vertex 4 and i've had the latest firmware for that since it came out months ago. I just want to know which intel rapid storage driver version everyone is using. Are people recommending 11.2.0.1006 or the newest ones 12.6.3.1000? There's also the BETA 12.7.0.1018 drivers. Can anyone say whether or not that the latest official 12.6.3.1000 drivers are the best? Only thing im worrying about is the ahci drivers and nothing else. Everything else is setup properly.


----------



## Brenton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabecubano14*
> 
> I am using the regular intel ports with my ssds. its just the ahci drivers it seems. i have vertex 4 and i've had the latest firmware for that since it came out months ago. I just want to know which intel rapid storage driver version everyone is using. Are people recommending 11.2.0.1006 or the newest ones 12.6.3.1000? There's also the BETA 12.7.0.1018 drivers. Can anyone say whether or not that the latest official 12.6.3.1000 drivers are the best? Only thing im worrying about is the ahci drivers and nothing else. Everything else is setup properly.


I use 11.2.0.1006 with my 2 Vectors and get great performance. They don't conflict with the Asmedia ports like later versions seem to, Although if you have no drives on the Asmedia ports, you can disable them to avoid that issue.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabecubano14*
> 
> I am using the regular intel ports with my ssds. its just the ahci drivers it seems. i have vertex 4 and i've had the latest firmware for that since it came out months ago. I just want to know which intel rapid storage driver version everyone is using. Are people recommending 11.2.0.1006 or the newest ones 12.6.3.1000? There's also the BETA 12.7.0.1018 drivers. Can anyone say whether or not that the latest official 12.6.3.1000 drivers are the best? Only thing im worrying about is the ahci drivers and nothing else. Everything else is setup properly.


Where are you finding 12.6.3.1000?, the newest ones on Intel's website are are 12.5.0.1066 or AHCI


----------



## gabecubano14

I've been using this site when the board first came out. It seems pretty to be reliable and gets the most up to date drivers first.

And thanks Brenton for the tip. I might just go back to it. Is there a certain way to date back to an older driver for intel rapid storage? Do i just install it over or something?

http://www.station-drivers.com/page/asus/asus_sabertooth_z77.htm

thanks,
gabe


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabecubano14*
> 
> I've been using this site when the board first came out. It seems pretty to be reliable and gets the most up to date drivers first.
> 
> And thanks Brenton for the tip. I might just go back to it. Is there a certain way to date back to an older driver for intel rapid storage? Do i just install it over or something?
> 
> http://www.station-drivers.com/page/asus/asus_sabertooth_z77.htm
> 
> thanks,
> gabe


I'm not entirely sure i would trust that website. That seems like a guru3d type website for motherboards etc. Its like people making custom nvidia drivers and packaging them. Not to mention its in french lol. Idk each person has their own poison, I'll stick to Intel because at least then, i know its officia.

A different website having "newer" drivers than the main company would lead me to assume that they're leaked drivers, and aren't quite ready for the open public. Or they're modified drivers.

Also despite Intel releasing a 9.4 chipset driver, its only gonna install 9.3.0.1027 drivers for your z77 chipset. Which is odd. You can check yourself in device manager.


----------



## gabecubano14

okay. yeah i have noticed that. yeah i might start sticking with intel only too. thanks for the advice.

gabe


----------



## yahiralejandro

Hello guys, I have a problem with the HDMI display.

When I connect my GPU it works well, but when I put the IGPU as my primary display, it shows nothing on the screen.

I tried to set IGPU as primary then removed the GPU but still don't work. I even tried to enable multimonitor, set it to auto and everything...

My GPU is not working well, so, I have to enable the onboard display devices in order to use my computer.

So, why ASUS comes with an HDMI port if I have to use a graphic card?

Here's a vid: 




Thank you guys!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yahiralejandro*
> 
> Hello guys, I have a problem with the HDMI display.
> 
> When I connect my GPU it works well, but when I put the IGPU as my primary display, it shows nothing on the screen.
> 
> I tried to set IGPU as primary then removed the GPU but still don't work. I even tried to enable multimonitor, set it to auto and everything...
> 
> My GPU is not working well, so, I have to enable the onboard display devices in order to use my computer.
> 
> So, why ASUS comes with an HDMI port if I have to use a graphic card?
> 
> Here's a vid:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you guys!


What if multimonitor is disabled? Have you tried a different HDMI cable? Are you using displayport? I can't tell. Did you make a silly mistake and forget to switch the input on the tv/monitor?

Do you have a cpu with built in graphics? Do you have another motherboard you can try it on? Another Monitor?


----------



## yahiralejandro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> What if multimonitor is disabled? Have you tried a different HDMI cable? Are you using displayport? I can't tell. Did you make a silly mistake and forget to switch the input on the tv/monitor?
> 
> Do you have a cpu with built in graphics? Do you have another motherboard you can try it on? Another Monitor?


Thank you for responding, I enabled the multimonitor, I tried with a different cable, my monitor doesn't support display port









I'm curious about "switch the input on the TV", I have a Asus VS247H-P. This will sound silly but, is there a switch on my monitor?

I think I'm missing something on the BIOS, something like "enable HDMI out" and the IGPU.

A soon as I go home, I will try to enable multimonitor option but with the PCIE to see what happens (I tried this before but with IGPU-Multimonitor and got nothing)

Thank you!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yahiralejandro*
> 
> Thank you for responding, I enabled the multimonitor, I tried with a different cable, my monitor doesn't support display port
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious about "switch the input on the TV", I have a Asus VS247H-P. This will sound silly but, is there a switch on my monitor?
> 
> I think I'm missing something on the BIOS, something like "enable HDMI out" and the IGPU.
> 
> A soon as I go home, I will try to enable multimonitor option but with the PCIE to see what happens (I tried this before but with IGPU-Multimonitor and got nothing)
> 
> Thank you!


There isn't anything like that in the bios.

Next to the power button, there should be a "source" or "input" button. From the video, it's really dark, but it looks like you aren't switching the input on the monitor and leaving it set to DVI which is why you don't see anything because your graphics card is hooked to DVI and your onboard video is hooked to HDMI. They are different inputs/sources on your monitor.


----------



## Szarky

Hello!
What will happen when I put my Sound Blaster - Z (PCI-E x1) to the last, lowest PCI-E x16 Slot?

a) it wiill work fine
b) don't do that - you wil destroy your great mobo / sound card

Reason why i want to do that is strange sounds because now SB-Z is between two GTX 660


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> Hello!
> What will happen when I put my Sound Blaster - Z (PCI-E x1) to the last, lowest PCI-E x16 Slot?
> 
> a) it wiill work fine
> b) don't do that - you wil destroy your great mobo / sound card
> 
> Reason why i want to do that is strange sounds because now SB-Z is between two GTX 660


A. It should work fine.

Or you can remove a thermal armor fan and put it above your graphics card. That's what I did.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> Hello!
> What will happen when I put my Sound Blaster - Z (PCI-E x1) to the last, lowest PCI-E x16 Slot?
> 
> a) it wiill work fine
> b) don't do that - you wil destroy your great mobo / sound card
> 
> Reason why i want to do that is strange sounds because now SB-Z is between two GTX 660


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> A. It should work fine.
> 
> Or you can remove a thermal armor fan and put it above your graphics card. That's what I did.


Yup that's where I have my Essence STX and it works just fine.


----------



## Acidsuicide

good day fellow humans.

just wondering what settings you guys use in bios in regards to the graphics and pcie configurations. are you guys running PCIEx16 at x4, or x1? on graphics, do you guys run it on auto, gen1, gen2, or gen3?

i tinkered on these options a bit, setting it to x4, and gen3.. however, every time i do a cold boot from a complete shut off, the pc boots for about half a second, then turns off for about 2 seconds, and turns on before it boots to windows.. when i set it back to default (everything on auto).. everything works as it should. am i getting an isolated issue, or has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> good day fellow humans.
> 
> just wondering what settings you guys use in bios in regards to the graphics and pcie configurations. are you guys running PCIEx16 at x4, or x1? on graphics, do you guys run it on auto, gen1, gen2, or gen3?
> 
> i tinkered on these options a bit, setting it to x4, and gen3.. however, every time i do a cold boot from a complete shut off, the pc boots for about half a second, then turns off for about 2 seconds, and turns on before it boots to windows.. when i set it back to default (everything on auto).. everything works as it should. am i getting an isolated issue, or has anyone else experienced this?


I think the more important question is: Do you have a graphics card that supports gen3?

Do you have any add in cards like a sound card or raid card?

I leave mine on Auto. My gtx 460 isn't gen 3. My X-Fi sound card isn't detected if I force x4 speeds on the additional pcie slots.


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> I think the more important question is: Do you have a graphics card that supports gen3?
> 
> Do you have any add in cards like a sound card or raid card?
> 
> I leave mine on Auto. My gtx 460 isn't gen 3. My X-Fi sound card isn't detected if I force x4 speeds on the additional pcie slots.


sorry i missed out on some of the more important details. yes, i have a gtx660 supporting gen3. nothing else occupies my pcie slots atm.. thats why i tested putting it on x4 so all the bandwidth on the lanes go to the gpu. thanks for being the first to reply. =)


----------



## yahiralejandro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> There isn't anything like that in the bios.
> 
> Next to the power button, there should be a "source" or "input" button. From the video, it's really dark, but it looks like you aren't switching the input on the monitor and leaving it set to DVI which is why you don't see anything because your graphics card is hooked to DVI and your onboard video is hooked to HDMI. They are different inputs/sources on your monitor.


Yes, that was it. I feel very silly.

Thanks a lot!


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yahiralejandro*
> 
> Yes, that was it. I feel very silly.
> 
> Thanks a lot!


Woot! very good. It happens to all of us.


----------



## pfinch

Hi guys!

I got i problem with my Sabertooth z77 since day one.

My Soundblaster Z and Killer2100 NIC arent randomly not recognized in windows 8 (CSM enabled)...sometimes they will work, sometimes not....completly random after reboot or shutdown.

tried the 3rd PCIe x16 slot and both x1 above ... pice x1_1 is blocked by my lightning card (gpu reactor)

Please help!

Ty









Edit: currently rnning 2003 Bios ... tried the last 4 bios versions too


----------



## KattzPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfinch*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I got i problem with my Sabertooth z77 since day one.
> 
> My Soundblaster Z and Killer2100 NIC arent randomly not recognized in windows 8 (CSM enabled)...sometimes they will work, sometimes not....completly random after reboot or shutdown.
> 
> tried the 3rd PCIe x16 slot and both x1 above ... pice x1_1 is blocked by my lightning card (gpu reactor)
> 
> Please help!
> 
> Ty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: currently rnning 2003 Bios ... tried the last 4 bios versions too


Are the PCIe slots config'd properly in Bios. I put my SoundBlaster Zx into the PCI3 slot to give it more speed, but had to disable other PCIE 1 slots in BIOS


----------



## pfinch

already tried it with x4 and x1 mode









do you use uefi install of windows 8?

i


----------



## RSMJR87

Hey guys I have the Z77 Sabertooth motherboard and I was messing around with ASUS AI Suite II and customized my boot logo for fun, I was just wondering if it is possible to get the original picture on the boot page back?
There seems to be no option to revert the Image back to the original.


----------



## PainKiller89

Hi,

I have few questions any help would be great

1. Do you guys recommend flashing to 2003 bios?
2. Should i set my pcie stuff to gen3 or set it to auto?
3. What should i disable under cpu power management or leave it at auto?
4. What is the version of chipset drivers are you guys using and intel rapid storage technology?


----------



## Hawxie

Hi, I also have a few minor questions







.
Would it extremely terrible, if I put a NoFan nofan cr-95 Nickel on the Z77 Sabertooth?
And if it works, which PCI lanes do I lose, its quite big.


----------



## RSMJR87

Hey painkiller
1. 2003 is stable for me. I recommend the flash it did help run my new usb3.0 stable.
2. Dunno man, I just leave those settings alone.
3. I leave the CPU management on auto, It's less stress on the CPU when its down-clocked and wont run as hot which is nice if you don't like all your fans getting noisy.
4. Intel Chipset Driver V9.3.0.1021
4 1/2. I have no need for rapid storage tech.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have few questions any help would be great
> 
> 1. Do you guys recommend flashing to 2003 bios?
> 2. Should i set my pcie stuff to gen3 or set it to auto?
> 3. What should i disable under cpu power management or leave it at auto?
> 4. What is the version of chipset drivers are you guys using and intel rapid storage technology?


3. Set them to enabled. It keeps your computer running cool when CPU is not fully loaded. Auto doesn't necessary enabled. If leave to auto & when overclock, BIOS can set them to disabled. So, better set them to enabled.


----------



## 420Killah

Hey guys I have a possible problem here and I'm stumped from whats causing this.
At random times I get v-core warnings even when I'm just doing my daily rounds on the internet or playing any games?
Im running a i5 2500k on the Sabertooth Z77 and I haven't gotten around to messing with oc or playing around in the bios (bar disabling fast boot for installing windows via usb) I came across a different forum online and someone said that it could be Ai Suite spazzing out and giving false warnings. Even with false warnings I'm a bit sceptical about this as I cant afford to replace a damaged cpu








Any help is appreciated

My Sabertooth Z77 is not even a week old


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Hey guys I have a possible problem here and I'm stumped from whats causing this.
> At random times I get v-core warnings even when I'm just doing my daily rounds on the internet or playing any games?
> Im running a i5 2500k on the Sabertooth Z77 and I haven't gotten around to messing with oc or playing around in the bios (bar disabling fast boot for installing windows via usb) I came across a different forum online and someone said that it could be Ai Suite spazzing out and giving false warnings. Even with false warnings I'm a bit sceptical about this as I cant afford to replace a damaged cpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated
> 
> My Sabertooth Z77 is not even a week old


I get crazy readings also.. Saying my MB temp is negative 120 or my 12 volt is at 4 volts lol.. Mine started when I installed corsair link for my H100i.. I've heard the two softwares don't like each other..


----------



## 420Killah

Yeah it more or less started after I installed it to change the led colour on the pump.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Can anyone give some insight as to why the Intel Chipset 9.4.0.1017 off intels website, is installing 9.3.0.1027 infs?.


----------



## MrHamm

Hey fellow forum members! Of need of some information.

I recently SLI'd my Rig. 2 GTX 680's. This is my set up on the board:

Checked GPU-Z.
1) GTX680 PCI-E [email protected] 3.0 (3.0 changes to 1.1)
2) GTX680 PCI-E [email protected] 3.0 (3.0 changes to 1.1)
3) GT610 PCI-E [email protected] 2.0 (2.0 changes to 1.1)

As per my Z77 Sabertooth Manuel.
1) GTX680 on PCIe 3.0x16_1 slot (single at x16 or dual at x8/x8 mode)
2) GTX680 on PCIie 3.0x16_2 slot
3) GT610 on PCIe 2.0x16_3 slot (max. at x4 mode).

I don't see any other way to set up these cards in SLI to get them to be x16 x16.

Questions:
A) Is this a limitation on my motherboard?
B)Why does the 3.0/2.0 change to 1.1 in the Bus interface?
C) When I run "Start render test" It shows only 1 GTX680 in use but it says NVIDA SLI enabled. When I play games my OSD from Rivaturner shoes both GPU under-load. Is this normal?
4) Is there a performance hit that both my GTX680's are at x8 lanes?

Thanks guys.

Btw: I use the GT610 to power a secondary monitor for 2D applications wht the SLI'd GTX680 power a 2560x1440 monitor. I only play on one monitor.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yes it is a feature of the motherboard. It is the chipset that determines PCI lanes, and all Z77 boards run at either X16 or dual X8 except for a couple of the really top end boards that use plex chips to add PCI lanes. Plex chips add lanes but also increase latency so it is a trade off.
Running at X8 makes almost no difference to performance.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I get crazy readings also.. Saying my MB temp is negative 120 or my 12 volt is at 4 volts lol.. Mine started when I installed corsair link for my H100i.. I've heard the two softwares don't like each other..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Yeah it more or less started after I installed it to change the led colour on the pump.


Yes, i have the same issue as you guys, random warnings from the AI Suite, and i also have the Corsair H100i.
I found that this software causes audio dropouts or audio latency when having my pc turned on for more than 6 hours, thru the speakers using 3.5mm plug in the back of the motherboard it was minimal but thru the usb (Logitech G35) i was getting popping noises in the headsets, using dcplat software, i discovered the process CorsairLINK_HardwareMonitor.exe *32 was causing audio latency/dropouts by ending process, issue is gone. I hope this helps you if you get any audio issues on your computer as well.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Yes, i have the same issue as you guys, random warnings from the AI Suite, and i also have the Corsair H100i.
> I found that this software causes audio dropouts or audio latency when having my pc turned on for more than 6 hours, thru the speakers using 3.5mm plug in the back of the motherboard it was minimal but thru the usb (Logitech G35) i was getting popping noises in the headsets, using dcplat software, i discovered the process CorsairLINK_HardwareMonitor.exe *32 was causing audio latency/dropouts by ending process, issue is gone. I hope this helps for you if you get any audio issues on your computer as well.


Ya i read through the Corsair forums and seems these two software programs HATE each other..I wish there was just a button on the H100i for the LED so i didn't need the stupid Corsair link..


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

Can someone help with this?



I installed the right chipset, but i see that when i go to it.


----------



## clubber_lang

Welp.....bought a used Asrock Extreme 7 and it doesn't work. So I just went and bought a new Z77 Sabertooth to finish my build. It was the original board I was going to get anyways.....wish I would of bought it first. Out of $160.00 for a used Asrock board and I never got to use it. Little PO'd!


----------



## Volvic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> Does the fan work in Assist fan 2 spot? Is the fan set to off in the bios? Does the 2nd assist fan work in the assist fan 1 slot?


Hi again (first post). I have now checked it. Both fans run fine, but Assistant Fan 1 don't calls ASUS AI Suite II the speed. If I put Assistant Fan 2 in the Assistant Fan 1 slot nothing changes, 0 rpm in BIOS and AI Suite - but the fan works and I can change their speed...

Anyone any ideas how to fix this?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> Can someone help with this?
> 
> 
> 
> I installed the right chipset, but i see that when i go to it.


That is normal. Also no exclamation mark (or any label) means the device is working.


----------



## fragamemnon

What? Why haven't I been here already?
Hello, Saberteeth!


----------



## Pury

Hello guys, i need some kind of help in here, i just received today my evga gtx 770 classified 4gb
At first boot everything was just fine, the pc started windows normally except for the standard vga resolution, i installed the nvidia latest drivers 320.49
After reboot, it wont boot into windows, all that happens is, it shows the windows 7 flag logo (windows 7 loading screen) and it turns off the signal, my monitor just shows "No signal" warning. (it enters windows just in safe mode) i tried HDMI, DVI-D, DVI-I with vga adapter and still the same happening, i could not test display port since i dont have that cable.
I also tried going into the BIOS and changing Primary Display option to PCIE instead of AUTO, and also changed the NB PCIE Configuration, PCIEX16_1_Link Speed to GEN3.
I was reading on some evga gtx 770 forums and someone from evga support suggested to revert BIOS to 2 or 3 version older than the newest one.
I honestly dont know what to, do you guys have any idea of what else to try? I was thinking on testing the GPU in the 2nd PCIE slot, other than that i dont know what else to do.
For now im using just the iGPU from the intel core i7
I appreciate any help.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hello guys, i need some kind of help in here, i just received today my evga gtx 770 classified 4gb
> At first boot everything was just fine, the pc started windows normally except for the standard vga resolution, i installed the nvidia latest drivers 320.49
> After reboot, it wont boot into windows, all that happens is, it shows the windows 7 flag logo (windows 7 loading screen) and it turns off the signal, my monitor just shows "No signal" warning. (it enters windows just in safe mode) i tried HDMI, DVI-D, DVI-I with vga adapter and still the same happening, i could not test display port since i dont have that cable.
> I also tried going into the BIOS and changing Primary Display option to PCIE instead of AUTO, and also changed the NB PCIE Configuration, PCIEX16_1_Link Speed to GEN3.
> I was reading on some evga gtx 770 forums and someone from evga support suggested to revert BIOS to 2 or 3 version older than the newest one.
> I honestly dont know what to, do you guys have any idea of what else to try? I was thinking on testing the GPU in the 2nd PCIE slot, other than that i dont know what else to do.
> For now im using just the iGPU from the intel core i7
> I appreciate any help.


What resolution have you set?
Edit: nvm, too early in the morning.
Try booting into Safe Mode and see if it loads properly, then you might want to clear CMOS and eventually change the PCI slot.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> What resolution have you set?
> Edit: nvm, too early in the morning.
> Try booting into Safe Mode and see if it loads properly, then you might want to clear CMOS and eventually change the PCI slot.


Hello. Thanks for the reply.
I managed to fix it, i just had to load optimized defaults on the UEFI BIOS, then it worked, after that i restarted and got into the BIOS and set the XMP profile as i used to have it before. Tried again and everything is working just fine.








I benchmarked the GPU and i got a max score of 5480 in Unigine Heaven Benchmark 3.0
Benchmark Score Here


----------



## XPlatformGaming

Hi All

I apologise in advance if a similar issue has been discussed previously, but I am in need of some help with a couple of issues that may or not be the result of a faulty motherboard, namely, the Z77 sabertooth.

I bought all the components for this build some months ago. I am not a fanatic, but I decided to compose my system of corsair components where possible (exceptions being the VGA, mechanical drive, CD drive and MoBo), basically because I liked the idea of an entire system of Corsair!

My specs are as follows:

CPU: Intel i7 3770k
Memory: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Black 1866mhz
Graphics: ATI XFX 7870
HDD (Storage): 1TB Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003
SSD (OS): Corsair Force Series 3 V2 120GB
PSU: Corsair HX1050
Cooling: Corsair H80
OS: Windows 7 64bit

As far as I am aware, all components are correctly assembled, with cables being inserted into the correct ports on the Motherboard.

Initially after I had completed the build everything seemed to work absolutely fine with no issues at all, but a short time later (maybe a few months) I began to encounter a few issues. Let me describe the issues as best I can.

The first issues would involve the machine failing to POST correctly. It gets stuck on the black BIOS screen (version, HDD data etc) and will progress no further into windows. A reset will not solve this straight away, and I have occasionally needed to restart the machine several times before we get to the Windows loading screen. If it's any use, on the occasions where the system starts *successfully*, there is some information regarding what I believe is the mechanical hard drive, on the occasions it doesn't, this information is absent.

The second issue, which I have no doubt is related directly to the first, is that during normal operation, the system will lose the Seagate drive, that is, the noise that I am used to hearing whenever a USB device is removed is played and upon inspection there is no F: drive displayed. All programs running from that drive will either freeze or disappear completely.

I have spoken to Aria.co.uk (where all the components were purchased from) and they initially suggested that it could be either a mobo or HDD/SSD fault. They instructed me to scan the drives with HD Tune Pro for any bad sectors on either of the drives. The guy I spoke to thought it was more likely the mechanical drive causing the issues. He suggested that if during the boot up the drive was having a mad few minutes due to bad sectors that it could cause windows to panic. However, after the scan was completed it was not the mech drive but the SSD where bad sectors were located. In either case, they have suggested that I go direct to Corsair and request an RMA.

I am pretty sure that it is the SSD not functioning as it should, and after googling known issues with the drive, I found that corsair themselves found that the drive was unstable. I hope it is a HD issues and not a motherboard issue, but would like to know if anyone has any ideas regarding this or perhaps has a solution. HD issues mean that I do not completely have to dismantled my system!

Thanks in advance to anyone that responds, and once again sorry if this has come up before, but I needed to be specific with my issues!

thanks yee!

Adam


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPlatformGaming*
> 
> Hi All
> 
> I apologise in advance if a similar issue has been discussed previously, but I am in need of some help with a couple of issues that may or not be the result of a faulty motherboard, namely, the Z77 sabertooth.
> 
> I bought all the components for this build some months ago. I am not a fanatic, but I decided to compose my system of corsair components where possible (exceptions being the VGA, mechanical drive, CD drive and MoBo), basically because I liked the idea of an entire system of Corsair!
> 
> My specs are as follows:
> 
> CPU: Intel i7 3770k
> Memory: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Black 1866mhz
> Graphics: ATI XFX 7870
> HDD (Storage): 1TB Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003
> SSD (OS): Corsair Force Series 3 V2 120GB
> PSU: Corsair HX1050
> Cooling: Corsair H80
> OS: Windows 7 64bit
> 
> As far as I am aware, all components are correctly assembled, with cables being inserted into the correct ports on the Motherboard.
> 
> Initially after I had completed the build everything seemed to work absolutely fine with no issues at all, but a short time later (maybe a few months) I began to encounter a few issues. Let me describe the issues as best I can.
> 
> The first issues would involve the machine failing to POST correctly. It gets stuck on the black BIOS screen (version, HDD data etc) and will progress no further into windows. A reset will not solve this straight away, and I have occasionally needed to restart the machine several times before we get to the Windows loading screen. If it's any use, on the occasions where the system starts *successfully*, there is some information regarding what I believe is the mechanical hard drive, on the occasions it doesn't, this information is absent.
> 
> The second issue, which I have no doubt is related directly to the first, is that during normal operation, the system will lose the Seagate drive, that is, the noise that I am used to hearing whenever a USB device is removed is played and upon inspection there is no F: drive displayed. All programs running from that drive will either freeze or disappear completely.
> 
> I have spoken to Aria.co.uk (where all the components were purchased from) and they initially suggested that it could be either a mobo or HDD/SSD fault. They instructed me to scan the drives with HD Tune Pro for any bad sectors on either of the drives. The guy I spoke to thought it was more likely the mechanical drive causing the issues. He suggested that if during the boot up the drive was having a mad few minutes due to bad sectors that it could cause windows to panic. However, after the scan was completed it was not the mech drive but the SSD where bad sectors were located. In either case, they have suggested that I go direct to Corsair and request an RMA.
> 
> I am pretty sure that it is the SSD not functioning as it should, and after googling known issues with the drive, I found that corsair themselves found that the drive was unstable. I hope it is a HD issues and not a motherboard issue, but would like to know if anyone has any ideas regarding this or perhaps has a solution. HD issues mean that I do not completely have to dismantled my system!
> 
> Thanks in advance to anyone that responds, and once again sorry if this has come up before, but I needed to be specific with my issues!
> 
> thanks yee!
> 
> Adam


Hi, i have read your post and one thing you could try is to open the side panel when trying to POST, look at the lights the mobo has, thats very helpful when trying to determine which part of the computer is not letting the system to POST or boot.
All the symptoms you mention, it all points to be a faulty boot device (HDD/SSD) and By the interactions you had with tech of Aria.co.uk, confirms this, other things you can try to determine if the mobo is faulty.
Which sata ports are you using? Intel 6gb/s (Brown sata ports) or Asmedia 6gb/s (White sata ports)?
If you are already using the Brown Sata ports try using the White ports.
Another thing to try is if you have a windows 7 or 8 disc, make a small partittion in the seagate drive about 25gb and dont connect the ssd, just to test if this way the computer still no POST, make sure to check the mobo lights when computer is turning on to check what is failing.

Regards


----------



## Miss Roxy

Hello.

I recently purchased my 2nd GTX 670 FTW and I am concerned about the placement of my sound card. ( Asus Xonar Essence STX )

Is it bad that they're very close to each other? cause' my sound card can get pretty hot to the touch.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I recently purchased my 2nd GTX 670 FTW and I am concerned about the placement of my sound card. ( Asus Xonar Essence STX )
> 
> Is it bad that they're very close to each other? cause' my sound card can get pretty hot to the touch.


you should be fine with it where it is now. the only other options are the top pcie 1, which you have to remove the mobo assist fan to use with the essence stx, or the pcie 1 in between your 670's. though sound cards run a bit hot, they're still well within the thermal limits of the components they comprise of.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I recently purchased my 2nd GTX 670 FTW and I am concerned about the placement of my sound card. ( Asus Xonar Essence STX )
> 
> Is it bad that they're very close to each other? cause' my sound card can get pretty hot to the touch.


I actually have the same setup as you and my sound card hasn't given me any problems.


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I actually have the same setup as you and my sound card hasn't given me any problems.


Ditto. My sound card (x-fi Ti) is right below two titans and no problem


----------



## Miss Roxy

Okay thanks guys.


----------



## bunja

Hey guys,

I was always annoyed by the center little fan,
today i tried to fit the little noctua fellow on there and so far it is a tight fit I just need to plug it in to see how it will work



what do you think?

Thr wire could probably go in, but I dont have time to take out the cooler just now...


----------



## Hawxie

Just ordered a Z77 Sabertooth, since my Z77-D3H just died a couple of days ago...


----------



## fragamemnon

Looks hot, let's hope it plays cool.









J/k, just leave it there. I got so used to mine they don't even bother me. But hey, that looks good.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> Looks hot, let's hope it plays cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/k, just leave it there. I got so used to mine they don't even bother me. But hey, that looks good.


Oh it plays cool allright, well, quieter and better by quite a few degrees.

I actually put Rasbro 40 mm in the back as Noctua did not fit, and the last 40 mm Noctua that I've sanded that it would fit started to buzz
(probably due to torture i gave it) I felt sorry for this little new Noctua so one bolt was all it took for itto go humming quietly in the center.

Too bad about the wire tough.
Here, another pic:


----------



## R3apR369

This is probably a silly question, but does anyone have an extra PCI cover laying around that they don't need, and don't mind sending out to me? Please PM me if ya do! Thanks.


----------



## p33k

Do you know if it's possible to buy the thermal armor? I am wanting to paint mine but would like to have a backup if it doesn't work out the way I want or for warranty purpose. Thanks!


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Do you know if it's possible to buy the thermal armor? I am wanting to paint mine but would like to have a backup if it doesn't work out the way I want or for warranty purpose. Thanks!


Are you in the U.S?

*@R3apR369*
Shoot me your shipping address and I'll hook you up.


----------



## CODELESS

Updated bios to 2003 and system couldnt be better !


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Are you in the U.S?


No I am in Korea. If that was a problem my family can mail things to me. Do that quite a bit since things tend to be much more expensive here, go figure...


----------



## 420Killah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Do you know if it's possible to buy the thermal armor? I am wanting to paint mine but would like to have a backup if it doesn't work out the way I want or for warranty purpose. Thanks!


Im gonna second this. I've been looking all over for the Z77 armor ebay amazon and a few other sites but no luck anywhere







I'm in Ireland if that makes any difference?


----------



## R3apR369

*@R3apR369*
Shoot me your shipping address and I'll hook you up.[/quote]

Thanks Grunion. I luv you long time.


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Hi Everyone,

This thread is huge from when I first bought this board last year.
I'm interested to see some successful 4.5 overclocks with the 3570k and whether you went for off set or not.

If any one wants to share there settings with me or screenshots I would greatly appreciate it.
Running the latest bios 2003


----------



## bunja

Hey guys,
I upgraded my rig with corsair ax860i and h100i
and now when i shutdown the green light that usually was on on the z77 is not on anymore, otherwise i do not see any problems when i power up everything is fine, why does it do that? should i be worried about that?

H100i temps are not so low as I hoped for after changing from coolermaster tpc812 but I guess that was to be expected, cpu is at stock speed and full load its about 46c, cores go a bit higher tough. altough every program shows different values.

Is there anything except radar that will show all fans including assist fans and pump + fans connected to it in one place?

I used the paste that was already on the h100i would it get any better if I would change to arctic silver 5?


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hurtn4ASquirtn*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> This thread is huge from when I first bought this board last year.
> I'm interested to see some successful 4.5 overclocks with the 3570k and whether you went for off set or not.
> 
> If any one wants to share there settings with me or screenshots I would greatly appreciate it.
> Running the latest bios 2003


|








| I will post screenshots a bit later, editing this post. It's not offset.
|
V


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I upgraded my rig with corsair ax860i and h100i
> and now when i shutdown the green light that usually was on on the z77 is not on anymore, otherwise i do not see any problems when i power up everything is fine, why does it do that? should i be worried about that?
> 
> H100i temps are not so low as I hoped for after changing from coolermaster tpc812 but I guess that was to be expected, cpu is at stock speed and full load its about 46c, cores go a bit higher tough. altough every program shows different values.
> 
> Is there anything except radar that will show all fans including assist fans and pump + fans connected to it in one place?
> 
> I used the paste that was already on the h100i would it get any better if I would change to arctic silver 5?


i had a 2degrees drop from stock to the silver


----------



## bunja

If there are people in this thread that have HAF XM case and h100i can you share how did you set up the cooler, on the top and fans under (which way) or under the top and fans above (under the mask)?

I have the radiator in the case and fans under the top mask where the 200 mm's were... As an exhaust, pulling air through rad..
Any suggestions are welcome...
If anyone has any idea about the green light on the saber from my previous post i'd be gratefull, it feels wierd not having that light...

Tnx.


----------



## Hawxie

Can I join?







.
(*Cough* crap phone quality... *cough*)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 420Killah

Off topic a little but this popped up after a three hour BF3 session



Somehow I dont think thats quite right


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *420Killah*
> 
> Off topic a little but this popped up after a three hour BF3 session
> 
> 
> 
> Somehow I dont think thats quite right


33.8F? That's some impressive cooling


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> 33.8F? That's some impressive cooling


Hello.
I have this false popups too, and the issue on my system is the Corsair link software for my Corsair H100i, when i close that software and end the process called CorsairLINK_HardwareMonitor.exe *32, these pop ups stop showing.


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> If there are people in this thread that have HAF XM case and h100i can you share how did you set up the cooler, on the top and fans under (which way) or under the top and fans above (under the mask)?
> 
> I have the radiator in the case and fans under the top mask where the 200 mm's were... As an exhaust, pulling air through rad..
> Any suggestions are welcome...
> If anyone has any idea about the green light on the saber from my previous post i'd be gratefull, it feels wierd not having that light...
> 
> Tnx.


Howdy, I have the HAF-X case which must be similar to yours with the two top exhaust fans. I have the two case fans in their original position exhausting the air with the h100i mounted below the fans and the two radiator fans pushing up getting the heat extracted up out of the case. Not sure if you have room in your case to mount it the way I did. I have a couple of bad pictures on my rig signature of the h100i.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hello.
> I have this false popups too, and the issue on my system is the Corsair link software for my Corsair H100i, when i close that software and end the process called CorsairLINK_HardwareMonitor.exe *32, these pop ups stop showing.


Same here, i get these annoying temp warning as well.
and i also think its coz of the corsair link software, if i also close it down the warnings stop, there is definitely some clash between then corsair and asus suit software


----------



## fragamemnon

It's not only the corsair link software, I've experienced strange reports, like 0V on the 3V/5V rails, temps from -128oC to +128oC on various components, etc, and I don't have it.







Perhaps another sensor.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Same here, i get these annoying temp warning as well.
> and i also think its coz of the corsair link software, if i also close it down the warnings stop, there is definitely some clash between then corsair and asus suit software


They actually say that somewhere on Corsair website that aisuite and corsair link dont work well together so you should use one or another I actually think those are pop ups from ai suite. no need to kill the service just exit the ai suite or link, ai suite is an auto startup app.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> Howdy, I have the HAF-X case which must be similar to yours with the two top exhaust fans. I have the two case fans in their original position exhausting the air with the h100i mounted below the fans and the two radiator fans pushing up getting the heat extracted up out of the case. Not sure if you have room in your case to mount it the way I did. I have a couple of bad pictures on my rig signature of the h100i.


Not with the sabertooth, the bulge of armor gets in the way for fans to be under rad and inside case. I've put the rad inside and vents on top, because otherwise you cant screw them underneath (you can but it took me an hour for a single screw)


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> They actually say that somewhere on Corsair website that aisuite and corsair link dont work well together so you should use one or another I actually think those are pop ups from ai suite. no need to kill the service just exit the ai suite or link, ai suite is an auto startup app.
> Not with the sabertooth, the bulge of armor gets in the way for fans to be under rad and inside case. I've put the rad inside and vents on top, because otherwise you cant screw them underneath (you can but it took me an hour for a single screw)


i have also had to setup my H100i like that, rad inside the case and fans outside of the case.
i found that its better that way as if you need to clean the rad, there is no need to take the whole thing out to clean it.
i just use a paint brush to wipe the dust from the rad and then to clean the fans its also easy.

ill take new pics of my pc tonight and post how i have mounted things.

i also get voltage warnings here and there. i really think the ai suit is buggy. it never use to give me these warning for the 1st 4 months i had it


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> i have also had to setup my H100i like that, rad inside the case and fans outside of the case.
> i found that its better that way as if you need to clean the rad, there is no need to take the whole thing out to clean it.
> i just use a paint brush to wipe the dust from the rad and then to clean the fans its also easy.
> 
> ill take new pics of my pc tonight and post how i have mounted things.
> 
> i also get voltage warnings here and there. i really think the ai suit is buggy. it never use to give me these warning for the 1st 4 months i had it


Here is the link for the forum post that mentions the ai suite and cl:

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=118371


----------



## automaton

Hi
im hunting for new rig parts
hi
Im hunting for info on an upcoming upgrade
I looking at z77 sabertooth
is this a stable board
can i buy it as is without a bunch of tweaking

asus z77
I7 3770
samsung 830 ssd
seasonic x series gold 650w
corsair vengeance ddr3 1600 low profile


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> Hi
> im hunting for new rig parts
> hi
> Im hunting for info on an upcoming upgrade
> I looking at z77 sabertooth
> is this a stable board
> can i buy it as is without a bunch of tweaking
> 
> asus z77
> I7 3770
> samsung 830 ssd
> seasonic x series gold 650w
> corsair vengeance ddr3 1600 low profile


No hassle at all.
I bought it and only downloaded some simple drivers and Thermal Radar.
No issue and runs like a dream.


----------



## automaton

thanks for support
do _have to use that mobo cover thing]_


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> Hi
> im hunting for new rig parts
> hi
> Im hunting for info on an upcoming upgrade
> I looking at z77 sabertooth
> is this a stable board
> can i buy it as is without a bunch of tweaking
> 
> asus z77
> I7 3770
> samsung 830 ssd
> seasonic x series gold 650w
> corsair vengeance ddr3 1600 low profile


I built my Asus Sabertooth / Ivy i3770K on release dates and haven't had any issues since. I reach a 4.0 Ghz OC on the Ivy stable and kept 24/7 at a fixed over clock. I did get the Intel Tuning Protection which enables me to do a one time replacement no questions asked even if over clocking killed my CPU. The Sabertooth has done well for our similar build. Love the clean look in my rig. See rig pics for results.


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> thanks for support
> do I have to use that mobo cover thing


You don't have to... but isn't that one of the main selling point of z77 sabertooth? >_>
If you don't like the cover, you're better off buying a cheaper mobo since you're not planning on overclocking either.


----------



## automaton

I just want a good stable board


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> I just want a good stable board


There are plenty of cheaper mobo's that are ' good ' and ' stable '... and you don't need fancy ones since you're not interested in the looks nor overclocking.

Something cheap like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293 ASRock Z77 Extreme4 $134.99

or this should suffice:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128546 GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H $129.99 after rebate

Even then... those are *overkill* for what you need since those are budget oc mobo's. Why don't you look into H77 mobo's?

*Edit:* Can you please make up your mind?







I went through your previous posts and you're looking at haswell ( which is *NOT* z77 ) + told everyone that you're *NOT* a gamer.

Why waste your money by getting an unnecessary mobo?


----------



## automaton

I was originally looking at haswell till I read usb3 ssues and ssd issues
I am choosing from microcenters remaining stock
and was advised to go with z77
thanks
The board is 148 bundle

https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+3+issues+haswell&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a

https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+3+issues+haswell&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a#bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&fp=7fd72cac1161fbc6&q=ssd+issues+haswell&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial


----------



## Miss Roxy

Huh? It's only $148 at which Microcenter?

Most Microcenters that I know of do not have new z77 Sabertooth in stock and only had refurbished / open box.


----------



## CODELESS

How i have Setup my H100i


----------



## tw1st

Guys,

I've been having a small issue since the day I purchased the sabertooth z77 mobo. Wondering if anyone else has a similar issue...

Basically, whenever booting back into the OS from sleep mode, my network in unavailable (I get the red X on my network for about 30 seconds, and then it kicks in and connects)

It is very annoying, and I can't seem to figure out a way to fix it. I've read numerous forums and posts about possible resolutions, but nothing seems to help. There was an option I could set for "allow the computer to turn off this device", and I have made sure it is unchecked... I have no idea where else to go from here.

Does anyone else have an issue with no network connection once coming out of sleep mode?


----------



## pfinch

Hey guys!

do i need the Thermal Radar (Asus Suite) after configuring my fans? The Settings should be saved at the UEFI, arent they?
i dont like the Asus Suite


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> I was originally looking at haswell till I read usb3 ssues and ssd issues
> I am choosing from microcenters remaining stock
> and was advised to go with z77
> thanks
> The board is 148 bundle
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+3+issues+haswell&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+3+issues+haswell&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a#bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&fp=7fd72cac1161fbc6&q=ssd+issues+haswell&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial


Where did you read about SSD issues? If you're looking for alternative, ASUS P8Z77-V series motherboards are not bad either.

[EDIT] Look like it only effected first generation Sandforce controller.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I've been having a small issue since the day I purchased the sabertooth z77 mobo. Wondering if anyone else has a similar issue...
> 
> Basically, whenever booting back into the OS from sleep mode, my network in unavailable (I get the red X on my network for about 30 seconds, and then it kicks in and connects)
> 
> It is very annoying, and I can't seem to figure out a way to fix it. I've read numerous forums and posts about possible resolutions, but nothing seems to help. There was an option I could set for "allow the computer to turn off this device", and I have made sure it is unchecked... I have no idea where else to go from here.
> 
> Does anyone else have an issue with no network connection once coming out of sleep mode?


its something to do with drivers as i also had that problem, but i dont know how i fixed it as i did a complete reinstall and did a bios update before i did the install, also the sequence of installing your drivers


----------



## automaton

all I curremtly know is z77 sabertooth is 148 w purchase of I7 3770
please feel free to call and ask
why are you antagonistic?


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> How i have Setup my H100i


Nice looking case. Yeah, thats how i only got it to work without fussing with scews from under.

Are those little 4 fans on the extra bracket?


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> all I curremtly know is z77 sabertooth is 148 w purchase of I7 3770
> please feel free to call and ask
> why are you antagonistic?


Asking a question = antagonistic?
Okay.


----------



## Hawxie

By the way, does anyone know if you can mount, the CR-95 from NoFan, onto the Z77 Sabertooth? It doesnt seem like the Thermal Armor goes much higher than semi LP ram.


----------



## automaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> all I curremtly know is z77 sabertooth is 148 w purchase of I7 3770
> please feel free to call and ask
> why are you antagonistic?


thats not friedly


----------



## OneGun

Someone has multiple personalities..


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> thats not friedly


Look. You're the one who asked for help.

You asked whether or not it's necessary to keep the cover on, which shows me that you could care less about it. ( the cover is one of z77 sabertooth's main selling point since people like the ' clean ' look )

If appearance doesn't matter to you, why bother overspending if you won't take it's features to your advantage?

You mentioned that you do not play games, nor overclock your computer. I've given you options for cheaper alternatives. Most cheaper mobo's out there are stable especially if you do not overclock.

You also stated that you could purchase z77 sabertooth for $148... so I went ahead and questioned which microcenter are able to give you such a deal ( as far as i know, it's out of stock / refurbished / open box in almost all location )

That itself equal to ' antagonistic '? and ' unfriendly '?


----------



## automaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> Look. You're the one who asked for help.
> 
> You asked whether or not it's necessary to keep the cover on, which shows me that you could care less about it. ( the cover is one of z77 sabertooth's main selling point since people like the ' clean ' look )
> 
> If appearance doesn't matter to you, why bother overspending if you won't take it's features to your advantage? I just wasnt into it
> 
> You mentioned that you do not play games, nor overclock your computer. I've given you options for cheaper alternatives. Most cheaper mobo's out there are stable especially if you do not overclock. i like a good mobo
> 
> You also stated that you could purchase z77 sabertooth for $148... so I went ahead and questioned which microcenter are able to give you such a deal ( as far as i know, it's out of stock / refurbished / open box in almost all location ) I was afraid word would leak out but asfter talking to them seems hokey
> 
> That itself equal to ' antagonistic '? and ' unfriendly '?


sorry if I seemed negative


----------



## Miss Roxy

^ Let me repeat myself: cheaper mobo's doesn't necessarily mean that it's not as good as sabertooth.

As an example, there are better overclocking boards out there that is cheaper than this board if that's all you care about.

Some people are willing to spend more money on appearance... which is one of the reasons why I purchased this board ( and in your case, you do not overclock or care about it's thermal armor ) so I suggest to save your $$$ and spend it on a mobo ( less costly ) that is suitable to your needs.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> ^ Let me repeat myself: cheaper mobo's doesn't necessarily mean that it's not as good as sabertooth.
> 
> As an example, there are better overclocking boards out there that is cheaper than this board if that's all you care about.
> 
> Some people are willing to spend more money on appearance... which is one of the reasons why I purchased this board ( and in your case, you do not overclock or care about it's thermal armor ) so I suggest to save your $$$ and spend it on a mobo ( less costly ) that is suitable to your needs.


^This.
I initially just bought it for the looks and the ability to actively cool the majority of the board.


----------



## OneGun

I bought mine for the looks mainly..


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Nice looking case. Yeah, thats how i only got it to work without fussing with scews from under.
> 
> Are those little 4 fans on the extra bracket?


What you mean by "those little 4 fans on the extra bracket?"
my H100i fans screw straight into the Rad,

i got myself 2 extra SP120 for my case. one as rear extractor fan and one at the HDD bays


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> ^ Let me repeat myself: cheaper mobo's doesn't necessarily mean that it's not as good as sabertooth.
> 
> As an example, there are better overclocking boards out there that is cheaper than this board if that's all you care about.
> 
> Some people are willing to spend more money on appearance... which is one of the reasons why I purchased this board ( and in your case, you do not overclock or care about it's thermal armor ) so I suggest to save your $$$ and spend it on a mobo ( less costly ) that is suitable to your needs.


miss Roxy, please send pics of your pc, the inside of it .....


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> What you mean by "those little 4 fans on the extra bracket?"
> my H100i fans screw straight into the Rad,
> 
> i got myself 2 extra SP120 for my case. one as rear extractor fan and one at the HDD bays


Its hard to explain, this is what i meant:


I got the Noctua's yesterday and was able to squeeze them in beneath and rad on top, because of the way nf-f12 is designed it had better temps this way, its just a pain if i need to take them out while the Saber is in...


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> miss Roxy, please send pics of your pc, the inside of it .....


? It's nothing special though.



& no, my case is not sitting on my carpet. It's actually sitting on top of a case stand, lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> Its hard to explain, this is what i meant:


Those are 4x watercooling grommets...


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ? It's nothing special though.
> 
> 
> 
> & no, my case is not sitting on my carpet. It's actually sitting on top of a case stand, lol.
> 
> Those are 4x watercooling grommets...


I've always loved that power supply for the cannon plug connectors. might mod some into my system one of these days. just need to gather up the patience and supply of plugs and jacks from work. lol


----------



## CODELESS

Bunja , as roxy said, "those are 4 watercooling grommets"

thats where the water pipes would go through if you had a big external Rad.


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> its something to do with drivers as i also had that problem, but i dont know how i fixed it as i did a complete reinstall and did a bios update before i did the install, also the sequence of installing your drivers


I tried re-installing the ethernet driver to no avail. I'm really not willing to format and do a clean OS install though... bah, I guess I'll wait for a newer driver or just deal with it


----------



## Miss Roxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> I've always loved that power supply for the cannon plug connectors. might mod some into my system one of these days. just need to gather up the patience and supply of plugs and jacks from work. lol


Haha that's one of the reasons why I got the PSU. ^^
I also like white.


----------



## EnthusiastG4m3r

For the first time, in i dont know how many years. I experienced a SATA cable fail on me over the weekend. (Wasn't the ones supplied by Asus with the board). I was keeping with the theme in my case and seeing as the Sata 3 cables that come with the board have white headers it didn't fit what i was looking for. So instead i used (brand new) sata 3 cables that came with a different board i had (they were completely black). After a month or two the one that connected my OS drive actually started to fail on me, causing the OS to corrupt and random reboot with boot device manager missing.

I pinpointed the problem being the cable because after a while the drive would just stop being read in the bios on that intel sata port. But if i connected something else to the same port it would be read no problem. If i connected the OS drive to a different port, with a different cable, it would also be read no problem. So in the end a $5.00 Sata cable caused me a world of problems, and also taught me a valuable lesson. Try to stay away from any cables that aren't supplied for you.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Bunja , as roxy said, "those are 4 watercooling grommets"
> 
> thats where the water pipes would go through if you had a big external Rad.


thnx for reply, was just curious about it.


----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miss Roxy*
> 
> There are plenty of cheaper mobo's that are ' good ' and ' stable '... and you don't need fancy ones since you're not interested in the looks nor overclocking.
> 
> Something cheap like this:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293 ASRock Z77 Extreme4 $134.99
> 
> or this should suffice:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128546 GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H $129.99 after rebate


I'm sorry, but I feel compelled to let everyone know to steer clear of the z77 Extreme 4. I went through 3 of them with a buddy's build. I've got a p67 asrock board that is rock solid, but there's something wrong with that board.


----------



## Hawxie

Which Noctua fans did fit as assist fans without major modification?


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi guys, i have a sabertooth and i want know if is compatible with 2400mhz memory (kingston hyperx beast). I have the memory, i won it in a competition.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a sabertooth and i want know if is compatible with 2400mhz memory (kingston hyperx beast). I have the memory, i won it in a competition.


If you're running it with a 3570K or 3770K it should work fine. They got a strong enough IMC to run 2400 MHz RAM.


----------



## El Media Vida

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> If you're running it with a 3570K or 3770K it should work fine. They got a strong enough IMC to run 2400 MHz RAM.


Yes, actually i have a 3570K







but i need do OC to work at that frequency? Because i have stock cooler, maybe next month i'll buy a H320


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> If you're running it with a 3570K or 3770K it should work fine. They got a strong enough IMC to run 2400 MHz RAM.


Wait, so if I have a 3770k, what's the highest frequency RAM I can use? I thought it depended on the Sabertooth.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *El Media Vida*
> 
> Yes, actually i have a 3570K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i need do OC to work at that frequency? Because i have stock cooler, maybe next month i'll buy a H320


Nope no overclocking on your CPU is necessary - just jump into the BIOS and either set the XMP profile for DDR3-2400 (If the modules support XMP) or manually adjust the RAM divider to 2400 MHz and set your timings/voltages. That's all you need to do.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> Wait, so if I have a 3770k, what's the highest frequency RAM I can use? I thought it depended on the Sabertooth.


RAM speed will be dependent on the CPU since that's where the memory controller is. Generally speaking, the 3570K and 3770K have quite strong IMCs so they can run faster kits like DDR3-2400 without much trouble. I've seen some people running DDR3-2666 kits and faster as well. For me, the fastest I've ever run is 2400 MHz and that worked just fine on my rig. But from what I've read on the subject, it seems 2400 MHz+ can be hit and miss...it's getting to the point where only the the best of the best IMCs can run these kits and you'll need to start pumping more voltage to the IMC to get them stable the faster you go. So it's hard to give an exact speed where the RAM speed tops out at as it varies from chip to chip. It's much the same as overclocking a CPU in general - the max speed you get out of it will be different with each CPU.

I hope this helps!


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I hope this helps!


Awesome info! Thank you so much! So I wanted to play it safe and get 2133MHz sticks, other than going into the BIOS and manually changing it to 2133 DDR3, what should/ do I do?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> Awesome info! Thank you so much! So I wanted to play it safe and get 2133MHz sticks, other than going into the BIOS and manually changing it to 2133 DDR3, what should/ do I do?


Glad to help!









And yup just jump in the BIOS and set the Speed, Timings, and Voltage for your kit and enjoy. On the other hand, if your kit has an XMP profile you can just set that instead. It's up to you how you want to do it.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Glad to help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yup just jump in the BIOS and set the Speed, Timings, and Voltage for your kit and enjoy. On the other hand, if your kit has an XMP profile you can just set that instead. It's up to you how you want to do it.


Awesome! Thank you again!


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> Awesome! Thank you again!


yeap, thats what im doing.
in my Bios i set my ram to XMP and im getting a good 2400MHz out of my ram


----------



## grunion

Giving away an Armor kit, see here.
There are requirements.


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> If you're running it with a 3570K or 3770K it should work fine. They got a strong enough IMC to run 2400 MHz RAM.


Maybe, the same kit would only run 2200 in my Z77, same kit will do 2600 on my Z87.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys i bought sabertooth z87 yesterday and was really happy since i read many bad reviews about this board, they say it sucks when comes to overclocking is that true? I tought all asus z87 boards have same o/c capability. Should i bought hero or any other new rog series?


----------



## XPlatformGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hi, i have read your post and one thing you could try is to open the side panel when trying to POST, look at the lights the mobo has, thats very helpful when trying to determine which part of the computer is not letting the system to POST or boot.
> All the symptoms you mention, it all points to be a faulty boot device (HDD/SSD) and By the interactions you had with tech of Aria.co.uk, confirms this, other things you can try to determine if the mobo is faulty.
> Which sata ports are you using? Intel 6gb/s (Brown sata ports) or Asmedia 6gb/s (White sata ports)?
> If you are already using the Brown Sata ports try using the White ports.
> Another thing to try is if you have a windows 7 or 8 disc, make a small partittion in the seagate drive about 25gb and dont connect the ssd, just to test if this way the computer still no POST, make sure to check the mobo lights when computer is turning on to check what is failing.
> 
> Regards


Hi Pury

Thanks for the reply.

Currently the SSD is connected to the black SATA 3GB/s as I read somewhere that the drive doesn't operate correctly at 6GB/s. I shall try creating a small partition on the seagate tonight. I really am hoping it is the SSD as i dont fancy stripping the entire system down with a mobo issue.

Regards

Adam


----------



## grunion

Got a little suprise, painted my armor.

Waiting for it to dry now.
If it turns out decent I may also paint my GPU shrouds.


----------



## grunion

Painting is done, what do you think?

Link


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Painting is done, what do you think?
> 
> Link


Nice work! That turned out great!









Any plans for a themed build around your Sabertooth Z77?


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Nice work! That turned out great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any plans for a themed build around your Sabertooth Z77?


Likely not, looks like I'll be trading it.

May have a go at a ST Z87 or my Gryphon when I get my armor.

I know the would look nice in my 600T Silver for sure.

Any ideas?


----------



## 420Killah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Likely not, looks like I'll be trading it.
> 
> May have a go at a ST Z87 or my Gryphon when I get my armor.
> 
> I know the would look nice in my 600T Silver for sure.
> 
> Any ideas?


Get a graffiti artist to go to town on the armor!


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Likely not, looks like I'll be trading it.
> 
> May have a go at a ST Z87 or my Gryphon when I get my armor.
> 
> I know the would look nice in my 600T Silver for sure.
> 
> Any ideas?


Dip it in carbon fiber :3


----------



## grunion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Dip it in carbon fiber :3


But that would ruin the silver theme?


----------



## Robertdt

I have the Z77 Sabertooth and so far I've been pretty happy with it, however it does seem to be completely reluctant to running memory off-spec.

Right now I have 2x8 GB of Gskill Trident X 2400 running at XMP 2400mhz. However, anytime I try to OC (even to 2600mhz), the PC won't even boot. I had a similar experience with 2x4gb of 1600mhz Ripjaws. Even trying to change the timings or increase the speed in the slightest resulted in it not getting past the memory check part of the boot process.

Any ideas why this is, or what is going on? I do have one of the most recent bioses.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> I have the Z77 Sabertooth and so far I've been pretty happy with it, however it does seem to be completely reluctant to running memory off-spec.
> 
> Right now I have 2x8 GB of Gskill Trident X 2400 running at XMP 2400mhz. However, anytime I try to OC (even to 2600mhz), the PC won't even boot. I had a similar experience with 2x4gb of 1600mhz Ripjaws. Even trying to change the timings or increase the speed in the slightest resulted in it not getting past the memory check part of the boot process.
> 
> Any ideas why this is, or what is going on? I do have one of the most recent bioses.


To me it seems that it's not related to the motherboard but rather the memory modules.
I am running my wonder RAM sticks at 2200MHz 24/7 and honestly I haven't tried going higher; I suspect there won't be any issues booting @ 2400 (or more).


----------



## Robertdt

Hmm... well I've tried 2 different sets of memory, both of which are rated to run at higher than their XMP speeds, and in each case I can't raise the speed or lower timings without the system refusing to boot


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hmm... well I've tried 2 different sets of memory, both of which are rated to run at higher than their XMP speeds, and in each case I can't raise the speed or lower timings without the system refusing to boot


the question you should ask yourself is will you notice a difference in a 200mhz increase ?
your running @ 2400 fine, why do you need that extra 200 ?

im running mine in XMP @2400Mhz and i really cant see much different in loading games or doing Emails when running at 1866 and 2400.

but if you are a photoshop guru or a sound engineer or video editor, that 200Mhz will do what for you ? give you an extra second of load or conversion or what ever it does ?

if its not broken it doesnt need fixing, yes i know you want to push and see what you can get, maybe there is something you forgetting to do or not changing something correctly. i dont know, i maybe ask a friend who has 2600mhz ram to lend it to you to see if your MoBo can handle 2600 1st, maybe your board doesnt like it those speeds, or your CPU cant handle it like one of the other guys stated a page or two back.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> Hmm... well I've tried 2 different sets of memory, both of which are rated to run at higher than their XMP speeds, and in each case I can't raise the speed or lower timings without the system refusing to boot
> 
> 
> 
> the question you should ask yourself is will you notice a difference in a 200mhz increase ?
> your running @ 2400 fine, why do you need that extra 200 ?
> 
> im running mine in XMP @2400Mhz and i really cant see much different in loading games or doing Emails when running at 1866 and 2400.
> 
> but if you are a photoshop guru or a sound engineer or video editor, that 200Mhz will do what for you ? give you an extra second of load or conversion or what ever it does ?
> 
> if its not broken it doesnt need fixing, yes i know you want to push and see what you can get, maybe there is something you forgetting to do or not changing something correctly. i dont know, i maybe ask a friend who has 2600mhz ram to lend it to you to see if your MoBo can handle 2600 1st, maybe your board doesnt like it those speeds, or your CPU cant handle it like one of the other guys stated a page or two back.
Click to expand...

This is OCN.
Hell I'd use it for reasons, quoted below.


Spoiler: reason







On a serious note, considering this is not exactly a budget motherboard, I believe he is in a position to demand overclockability for whatever reason.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> This is OCN.
> Hell I'd use it for reasons, quoted below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a serious note, considering this is not exactly a budget motherboard, I believe he is in a position to demand overclockability for whatever reason.


wasnt telling not to do it, just why ?
if its just to see if he can then he should start problem solving, like see if the mobo can handle 2600mhz sticks or something, im no expert on OCing memory and way to scared to F my sticks up, in South Africa things are expensive and salaries are low :-(


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> This is OCN.
> Hell I'd use it for reasons, quoted below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a serious note, considering this is not exactly a budget motherboard, I believe he is in a position to demand overclockability for whatever reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wasnt telling not to do it, just why ?
> if its just to see if he can then he should start problem solving.
Click to expand...

Well I'd dare say that 50% of the population inhabiting this place overclocks just because they can. I know that's true to a big degree for me.









I'm sorry if I sounded like I jumped the gun - I didn't mean to be rude. But if I may relate to
Quote:


> if its not broken it doesnt need fixing


how do you know if it isn't broken when it won't handle RAM overclocking with two different kits?


----------



## CODELESS

yeah, i donno, i just like that saying. 

well, if two kits are not over clocking, then my next attempt would see if its not the board, i would try get some 2600 into the board and see if it handles it.
if it works i would then check what timings those sticks are running at @ 2600 . and i dont know try match them with the 2400 sticks.

when i turn off xmp, and set it to manual, an option opens for me to select the mhz, from like 1333mhz to like 3000 or something, i cant remember the number exactly but when you set the mhz there does it not auto tune your times and stuff ?


----------



## fragamemnon

AFAIK it auto-tunes based on the XMP profile you select; however I have never used them, I always set timings manually.
So first I'd try a RAM that is _not_ rated for a certain speed, but is _known_ to be able to run it.
To put it in an example - I take my sticks out and hand them to him. If he runs them @ 2200MHz - his mobo is fine, he's got 2 pairs of poo modules. If they won't run 2200 - mobo or memory controller issue. (I assume it's not necessarily the motherboard, too)


----------



## jiJa

hey folks,

short story,

after my maximus 5 formula burnt down my two asus 670s,
i went back to my old sabertooth z77 mobo, ordered two new asus 670s.
tested both with the original aircooler, both cards worked well.
so after that testing i was going to fit the ekwb liquidcoolers on it.

problem:

compared with the maximus i cant activate sli.
card 1 sits on the first pcie slot
card 2 sits on the second slot

bridge is set.

question:

should i activate something on the bios to get the sli started?

thx


----------



## jiJa

k after some testing, the card is now found on combination.

pcie 1 up

pcie 3 down

the problem now is the sli bridge is a way to short -.-


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jiJa*
> 
> k after some testing, the card is now found on combination.
> 
> pcie 1 up
> 
> pcie 3 down
> 
> the problem now is the sli bridge is a way to short -.-


Have you tried just a single card in the lower PCIe 3.0 x8 slot? It sounding like that slot is buggered. In your previous post, you've done everything right so it should be finding the second card.


----------



## jiJa

yeah didnt get it too,

now its working fine on pcie 1 and pcie 3.
dont wanna to rma cause back in history i got so much trouble with asus, and iam tired of this now.








so "never change a running system".
now just a longer sli bridge is needed .


----------



## Robertdt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> This is OCN.
> Hell I'd use it for reasons, quoted below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a serious note, considering this is not exactly a budget motherboard, I believe he is in a position to demand overclockability for whatever reason.


That's what it's about. I bought the mobo and I bought the ram to get max performance and tweakability from the components. But the mobo just refuses to run anything even an inch above spec. (Closest I got was increasing BCLK to 101 which did boot with 2424 mhz).


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robertdt*
> 
> That's what it's about. I bought the mobo and I bought the ram to get max performance and tweakability from the components. But the mobo just refuses to run anything even an inch above spec. (Closest I got was increasing BCLK to 101 which did boot with 2424 mhz).


could simply be a bum cpu


----------



## Robertdt

Well, I've actually had a 3570k and a 3770k in this mobo each time with the two types of ram and get the same results


----------



## Solonowarion

Just waiting to get some final pictures taken.


----------



## saipan

I just upgraded my vcard to a 770 from a 570. how do i check to make sure the pcie slot is working at 3.0?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> I just upgraded my vcard to a 770 from a 570. how do i check to make sure the pcie slot is working at 3.0?


You can use GPUz and check under the "Bus Interface"


----------



## saipan

it says 1.0 not 3.0. but it does say pci-e 3.0x16


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> it says 1.0 not 3.0. but it does say pci-e 3.0x16


OK click the '?' button beside the Bus Interface. This will start a render test. Sometimes the PCIe link will clock down to save power when the card is idle. So the render test will load the card to force the PCIe link to go to max speed.


----------



## Freegrazer

Hi all.

Just wanted to ask if anybody knows why there is no XMP option in Ai Overclock Tuner on my Ai Tweaker menu in my BIOS?

The only available options are auto or manual. My RAM does indeed support XMP. I have been reading up about Overclocking and have been playing with the idea of overclocking my CPU (i3 3225K).

All the online OC'ing guides for the Sabertooth Z77 I have read all mention the XMP option in the Ai Overclock Tuner, but I do not have this option available. Anybody got any idea why?

Also some additional OC'ing tips or advice or a link to a good guide would be much appreciated.

Thanks lads!


----------



## Pury

Hello there.
I never knew there was a "K" (unlocked) processor for Core i3, i was completely sure that only i5 and i7 have their "K" versions, i even searched in google to check if i was wrong and i found nothing regarding your processor but the only fact that "K" version for core i3 doesnt exists, even on the official website, you can look at that info Here.
If your processor is not "K" version or Unlocked, i dont think you will be able to do any kind of Overclocking, im not sure, the memory controller is integrated in the cpu but overclocking depends on the motherboard and bios but taking the fact that your Core i3 is locked for Overclocking maybe for this reason the MoBo is hiding these options.


----------



## Freegrazer

My God do you know you're absolutely right!!

I have no feckin' idea why I thought my chip was a K model. I could've sworn it was a K model.
I think perhaps when I bought it on Amazon it was listed as "Intel core i3 3225 K". I never questioned it!

Well that's cleared that up then. Thanks Pury.

Think I'll get me a new processor. Any suggestions for in and around the €200 - €250 mark?


----------



## saipan

i5 3570k is the usual one. easily oc'ed. no need to spend on the i7 IMO.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> i5 3570k is the usual one. easily oc'ed. no need to spend on the i7 IMO.


This. My 3570 is clocked at 5 ghz although it tajes 1.528 volts haha


----------



## jktmas

finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build! Great work with the cable management...very tidy!


----------



## iARDAs

Hey guys I need help.

To take advantage of MSI Afterburner's new video capture ability I need to enable HD4000 in my motherboard, but somehow I can't.

Below are the step for MSI Afterburner. No matter what I do I can not see HD4000 in Device Manager.

Any help is truly appreciated.

A few notes of configuring Intel QuickSync encoding in MSI Afterburner. First, ensure that your hardware supports QuickSync Video technology. The following hardware is required:

- Intel CPU with QuickSync Video technology support (SandyBridge, Ivy Bridge or Hawell core). You may use this link into to see if your Intel CPU supports this technology.
- Mainboard with integrated Intel HD graphics support (refer to your mainboard specs to see it)

To use QuickSync on such platform you must:

- Enable Intel HD graphics in your mainboard BIOS. If it is enabled correctly, you must see Intel HD graphics active in your device manager next you your discrete AMD/NVIDIA graphics card
- Install the latest Intel HD graphics driver. QuickSync works via Intel HD driver so using outdated driver may degrade encoding performance drastically

There are 3 QuickSync acceleration modes available in MSI Afterburner:

- Disabled acceleration - uses CPU software emulation. It is left for performance testing/debugging only and it REQUIRES additional Intel Media SDK installation. It is not recommended to use this mode.
- Direct3D9 acceleration - uses Direct3D9Ex accelerated encoding. This mode is only available under Windows Vista and newer OS. This mode REQUIRES connecting monitor to Intel HD graphics output or forcing monitor detection for Intel HD graphics. Detailed instructions on forcing monitor detection for enabling QuickSync can be found here.
- Direct3D11 acceleration - uses Direct3D11.1 accelerated encoding. This mode is only available under Windows 8 and newer OS. This mode doesn't require any monitor detection tricks so it is strongly recommended to use it if it is available (i.e. if you're under Windows 8).

To verify that everything is set up properly just hit the <Benchmark> button. It will try to encode some short video in your current desktop resolution and show you the results. If you system is not configured properly, benchmark won't start.


----------



## Freegrazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60


That truly is extremely nice and tidy work my friend, well done!









I had a close look at how you did your front panel, LED's, and HD Audio/AC97 cables, and it looks to me like they're hidden behind the mobo. I remember staring at my case for almost 2 full hours pre-build planning exactly how I would route all my cables! I actually thought of doing what you did but chose not to because I thought it might be a little dangerous/unsafe to have cables touching the back of the mobo.

Did you cover them in heatshrink material or what steps did you take to make it extra safe against surges and short circuits and the like?

And is it completely safe to do so?


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freegrazer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bazinga69*
> 
> finally got around to re wiring when i got my new 1Ter Barracuda, i think it looks much better. next on my list is to get a better graphics card, sleeved cables, an ssd, new fans, and a kracken X60
> 
> 
> 
> That truly is extremely nice and tidy work my friend, well done!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a close look at how you did your front panel, LED's, and HD Audio/AC97 cables, and it looks to me like they're hidden behind the mobo. I remember staring at my case for almost 2 full hours pre-build planning exactly how I would route all my cables! I actually thought of doing what you did but chose not to because I thought it might be a little dangerous/unsafe to have cables touching the back of the mobo.
> 
> Did you cover them in heatshrink material or what steps did you take to make it extra safe against surges and short circuits and the like?
> 
> And is it completely safe to do so?
Click to expand...

The front panel, and two fan connectors are just tucked behind the corner, and routed through the grommet for graphics & sata. the far right usb is just behind that one bottom right screw and then doesn't go through a grommet (very ver very short cable on my card reader) and the left USB and front audio go behind the motherboard and through the CPU cutout. It is absolutely safe, all the wires are coated in like a plastic, then on top of that, the usb & front panel audio are coated in like a plasticity rubbery material. I also have 3 fans on top and my corsair power line going behind the mobo that you guys probs cant see in those pictures


----------



## CODELESS

I AM A BIT OF A NEAT FREAK.
cant handle wires being everywhere. plus my 400R cant really handle my TX850's cables so had to make a plan.
i ordered the TX850M and when i opened the package i saw it wasnt the M model. was so bummed.


----------



## skiline

can someone help me on upgrading a crucial m4-ct256m4ssd2 ssd i cant with this motherboard and i tried with another computer ( old one i have )
but i cant update the firmware of the ssd ( 000F )

i know people in here have that ssd how did you do it thank


----------



## skiline

never mind after i tried the manual boot file and it worked the other windows file would not


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

I have been running win 8 and dual RAID SSD hard drives for over a year with no problem and today I just reformatted drives and did a clean install. Since then when I start PC it sits at the Splash screen for around 5 minutes, then boots into Windows. All runs good from then on. But every time I start my PC I sit at the flash screen that says press F2 or delete to enter BIOS for 5 mins. If I press Del, I still have to wait to enter BIOS. I changed back to optimized setting and the only change was to change AHCI to Raid, but no better. Does anyone know what could be causing this issue??? I know it must be something so simple, I feel dumb. Looking for some help. Thanks


----------



## replica9000

Think I saw this mentioned here, but I'm not about to go back and read 6000+ posts to find an answer.

Couple months ago I swapped cases. New case has USB 3.0 front panel connectors. Since I've been using them, I've noticed some issues. The front USB 3 ports don't work with flash drives, but USB HDDs and smart phones work fine. Also, the Rocketfish/Dynex card reader I have no longer works on the internal USB 2.0 ports either.

Anyone else experiencing this find a solution?


----------



## Iron Eagle 666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iron Eagle 666*
> 
> I have been running win 8 and dual RAID SSD hard drives for over a year with no problem and today I just reformatted drives and did a clean install. Since then when I start PC it sits at the Splash screen for around 5 minutes, then boots into Windows. All runs good from then on. But every time I start my PC I sit at the flash screen that says press F2 or delete to enter BIOS for 5 mins. If I press Del, I still have to wait to enter BIOS. I changed back to optimized setting and the only change was to change AHCI to Raid, but no better. Does anyone know what could be causing this issue??? I know it must be something so simple, I feel dumb. Looking for some help. Thanks


I fixed it... I had to clear the CMOS. Should have thought of that first )


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> Think I saw this mentioned here, but I'm not about to go back and read 6000+ posts to find an answer.
> 
> Couple months ago I swapped cases. New case has USB 3.0 front panel connectors. Since I've been using them, I've noticed some issues. The front USB 3 ports don't work with flash drives, but USB HDDs and smart phones work fine. Also, the Rocketfish/Dynex card reader I have no longer works on the internal USB 2.0 ports either.
> 
> Anyone else experiencing this find a solution?


there are problems with USB, just keep your bios uptodate and download the latest drivers for usb, keeping in mind to uninstall all the usb drivers before installing the newest.


----------



## Acidsuicide

good day. =)


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> good day. =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


That's a beautiful build. Nice work!


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> good day. =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ew vf user. nice build though.


----------



## Acidsuicide

thank you.


----------



## Acidsuicide

ew vf user. nice build though.[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> thank you.


i dont even know what the hell VF stands for. lol. but thanks though.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ew vf user. nice build though.


i dont even know what the hell VF stands for. lol. but thanks though.[/quote]

your profile pic is from this site
that's the owner of the site wearing that shirt.
lol


----------



## Acidsuicide

hahahha. ok. i get it. didnt know that. to be honest, i dont even remember where i found it. LOL. thanks for the heads up. im no emo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> i dont even know what the hell VF stands for. lol. but thanks though.[/SPOILER]


your profile pic is from this site
that's the owner of the site wearing that shirt.
lol[/quote]


----------



## trama09

I've had this board for a couple months and it's pretty awesome. But how hard/ snug is the USB 3.0 connector supposed to be. I've disassembled and unplugged the connector a few times, and it's always really hard going back in. I don't even know if it's in all the way right now. I can still see the blue on my male connection side. And I don't want to push too hard and snap the MB.


----------



## id_mew

Usually it takes me about 9 seconds to boot or restart but now it's taking 31 seconds.

When I boot or restart my pc, it remains at the Enter Bios screen ( where you press DEL or F2 to enter setup at the Ultimate Force logo) for a really, really long time.

This has been happening for a bout a week, and I can't figure out why.

I updated my Bios and I checked all the startup programs but thats not the cause.

My boot propriety is my SSD and than my CD rom drive.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iron Eagle 666*
> 
> I fixed it... I had to clear the CMOS. Should have thought of that first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


This is happening to me too! I sit at the Enter Bios screen for a really long time until it boots, can I clear CMOS withing the bios settings or do I have to open my case and do it manually?


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> This is happening to me too! I sit at the Enter Bios screen for a really long time until it boots, can I clear CMOS withing the bios settings or do I have to open my case and do it manually?


have to either move the cmos jumper to the clear position for about 30 seconds or pull the armor off and remove the battery. either way, both are manual


----------



## p33k

I am thinking about watercooling my 2 gpu's but I was wondering about the spacing on this motherboard. If I went with the new style xspc blocks would I need 2,3,4 space connector? I am thinking 3 but was hoping somebody knew for sure. Thanks!


----------



## asuman1179

I had some major boot issues with a card reader on my rig and I just unplug in the long run. I am still on BIOS 1504 because I am so happy with the cool 4.5 over clock. Just not felt the need to upgrade yet.


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> there are problems with USB, just keep your bios uptodate and download the latest drivers for usb, keeping in mind to uninstall all the usb drivers before installing the newest.


Seems my issues was the USB Legacy support was set to Enabled instead of Auto. Fixed that and everything seems to work now.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> have to either move the cmos jumper to the clear position for about 30 seconds or pull the armor off and remove the battery. either way, both are manual


Tried that today, but still didn't fix my problem.
Don't really know why it's talking forever to boot from the Enter Bios screen.


----------



## Acidsuicide

go to UEFI under advanced.. then go to boot.. then change your PDT (post delay time) to 1 second. that should do the trick. =)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> This is happening to me too! I sit at the Enter Bios screen for a really long time until it boots, can I clear CMOS withing the bios settings or do I have to open my case and do it manually?


----------



## FifthRocketeer

I have had a Sabertooth z77 board for Months now, and i love it. I removed the armour and painted it to match the colour scheme of my build. However I am now builing a new machine and which to keep the MB. So, i need to revert to the orginal black colour. I could strip the paint, but you never seem to get back to the original colour of the plastic when stripping paint.

So my real question is. Does anyone know if it is possible to get spare Thermal Armour from the board from anywhere? Based in Ireland, so US stores are out of the question for me really as shipping is far to pricey.


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FifthRocketeer*
> 
> I have had a Sabertooth z77 board for Months now, and i love it. I removed the armour and painted it to match the colour scheme of my build. However I am now builing a new machine and which to keep the MB. So, i need to revert to the orginal black colour. I could strip the paint, but you never seem to get back to the original colour of the plastic when stripping paint.
> 
> So my real question is. Does anyone know if it is possible to get spare Thermal Armour from the board from anywhere? Based in Ireland, so US stores are out of the question for me really as shipping is far to pricey.


if you use paint stripper on it, R.I.P. thermal armor. the best way is to strip it is with acrylic thinner, and FYI, you are going to need lot's and lots of cloth to wipe the paint off. you wont need to re-paint it black at all. it will go back to the original.. unless of course you sanded it down before you painted it. iv'e painted my thermal armor white.. but never sanded it because i found no reason to. all i needed to do to get back my original color was acrylic thinner, and lots of old shirts. good luck!


----------



## FifthRocketeer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> if you use paint stripper on it, R.I.P. thermal armor. the best way is to strip it is with acrylic thinner, and FYI, you are going to need lot's and lots of cloth to wipe the paint off. you wont need to re-paint it black at all. it will go back to the original.. unless of course you sanded it down before you painted it. iv'e painted my thermal armor white.. but never sanded it because i found no reason to. all i needed to do to get back my original color was acrylic thinner, and lots of old shirts. good luck!


LOL yeah I have learnt the hard way about paint stripper a long time ago. No I didn't sand it either when paining it, Funny I never thought of using Acrylic thinner. Will have to give that a go. Thanks for the tip Acidsuicide.


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FifthRocketeer*
> 
> LOL yeah I have learnt the hard way about paint stripper a long time ago. No I didn't sand it either when paining it, Funny I never thought of using Acrylic thinner. Will have to give that a go. Thanks for the tip Acidsuicide.


glad to help man.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> go to UEFI under advanced.. then go to boot.. then change your PDT (post delay time) to 1 second. that should do the trick. =)


I tried 1 sec and 0 seconds and still is taking forever to boot.
I don't understand, this never happened to me before, so random.
I didn't install anything or change anything.


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> I tried 1 sec and 0 seconds and still is taking forever to boot.
> I don't understand, this never happened to me before, so random.
> I didn't install anything or change anything.


sorry to hear that bro. download HD sentinel or crystal disk to check if your HDD is okay.


----------



## jordo_123

hey i have had my sabertooth for a year now and have ran into a problem, my screen has went black on 2 occasions and the red light next to my graphics card has light up. the weird thing is my graphics card fans ramp up to 100%. But my graphics card is not overheating so i dont know what the problem could be and was wondering if a bios update had a possible fix


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordo_123*
> 
> hey i have had my sabertooth for a year now and have ran into a problem, my screen has went black on 2 occasions and the red light next to my graphics card has light up. the weird thing is my graphics card fans ramp up to 100%. But my graphics card is not overheating so i dont know what the problem could be and was wondering if a bios update had a possible fix


chances that the motherboard is causing this is moot. you might want to try using different gpu driver versions first... or try the gpu on another pc, or try another gpu on your pc.


----------



## jordo_123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> chances that the motherboard is causing this is moot. you might want to try using different gpu driver versions first... or try the gpu on another pc, or try another gpu on your pc.


thanks but from what i can gather it was a slack pin in the power connection which was due to my failed attempt at sleeving. well i hope that was the problem it did not do it last night or today so fingers crossed that was the problem.


----------



## Acidsuicide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordo_123*
> 
> thanks but from what i can gather it was a slack pin in the power connection which was due to my failed attempt at sleeving. well i hope that was the problem it did not do it last night or today so fingers crossed that was the problem.


i hope the problem gets fixed with the least amount of expense. good luck!


----------



## jordo_123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acidsuicide*
> 
> i hope the problem gets fixed with the least amount of expense. good luck!


thanks but if it comes to it i will need to buy a crimping tool and new pins but thats not alot of money anyway


----------



## Kounty01

Does someone have a suggestion for a assist fan filter for the fan on the back of the mobo?


----------



## Kounty01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnthusiastG4m3r*
> 
> I've been using this link for the last year
> 
> http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#download
> 
> to check for driver updates etc. I've checked other sites like MSI
> 
> http://www.msi.com/product/mb/Z77A-GD65.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win7%2064
> 
> And in some cases it appears they have more updated drivers. Is this anything i should be majorly concerned about? And is there a reason why Asus wouldn't be pushing updates if there are newer ones out there from Intel?.
> 
> The chipset driver itself is the same. But the USB 3.0 driver on MSi is more updated than the one on Asus. same as the Intel Rapid Storage AHCI driver for Sata controller.
> 
> I'm aware that Intel is the primary source of the drivers, But i don't want to use anything unless i know its 100% compatible with my motherboard, tested etc, not just the "Chipset".


I have been wondering about this myself. What drivers offer the best performance?


----------



## RoadRashed

Pretty sure my Sabertooth croaked today. Was playing Battlefield 3, then PC suddenly shut down. When the power switch on the case is pushed, the fans just "twitch" and nothing happens. I went out and bought a new power supply.....that didn't fix the problem. There's a single green light on the motherboard when the power is turned on, but that's it. Guess I get to see if Asus has decent customer service tomorrow....the motherboard support group is closed today. First day I started to play BF3 too.... Grrrrr.......


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> Does someone have a suggestion for a assist fan filter for the fan on the back of the mobo?


Just use a small section of pantyhose to filter the air. I'd cut out a square big enough to cover the opening in io cover and wedge it between that and the case slot to keep it in place. Clean, simple and inexpensive.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> Just use a small section of pantyhose to filter the air. I'd cut out a square big enough to cover the opening in io cover and wedge it between that and the case slot to keep it in place. Clean, simple and inexpensive.


LOL my wife wont miss them she will just kill me. But that is a dang good idea.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> I've had this board for a couple months and it's pretty awesome. But how hard/ snug is the USB 3.0 connector supposed to be. I've disassembled and unplugged the connector a few times, and it's always really hard going back in. I don't even know if it's in all the way right now. I can still see the blue on my male connection side. And I don't want to push too hard and snap the MB.


I borked mine the first time I put a header in it with my cramped old case. It doesn't really go into far and follow that notch marker to the letter or you will bend the pins like I did. I got 2 usb 3.0 ports to work off it the header. I could not get a mass storage after market SiiG card reader to work after bending the pins on this board.. I am going to send it in for repair once my z87 arrives this week then sell it.


----------



## JayKthnx

just grab a black set next time you're in walmart for like $4. lol


----------



## RoadRashed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoadRashed*
> 
> Pretty sure my Sabertooth croaked today. Was playing Battlefield 3, then PC suddenly shut down. When the power switch on the case is pushed, the fans just "twitch" and nothing happens. I went out and bought a new power supply.....that didn't fix the problem. There's a single green light on the motherboard when the power is turned on, but that's it. Guess I get to see if Asus has decent customer service tomorrow....the motherboard support group is closed today. First day I started to play BF3 too.... Grrrrr.......


Well....it looks like it is the video card (MSI HD7950) that is bad, not the motherboard. Unplugged everything from the motherboard (minus the CPU), and started putting things back together....testing with power each time. Got to the video card, pushed the power button....nothing. No beeps, just a slight twitch in all the fans. I have had a few bad video cards in the past, and none of them have caused the PC to be completely unresponsive, (the motherboard at least beeps and case/CPU fans will spin)...so I didn't start with the card or even suspect it. Borrowed a video card from my other PC and plugged it in....everything fired up. Tried the MSI card again, dead. Interesting. Now I get to see if MSI's RMA process is decent and fairly quick. VERY happy it's not the MB though.


----------



## jt705

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> just grab a black set next time you're in walmart for like $4. lol


How do I figure out my size and what color?


----------



## trancefreak64

Any one have troubele with a Corsair 500 R carbide and the 20 pin usb header. It sits so close to the rise in the case and there is no way to get it to fit with out most likely bending the pins?

I just got the Corsair case today and man this pissed me off. Now I am looking to low profile adapters. I have the z77 saber and I just got the z87 saber for the case and it almost looks as if the header sits lower than the z77 version.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Can Z87 Sabertooths join?


----------



## Solonowarion

Maybe OP can change to z77/z87?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> Any one have troubele with a Corsair 500 R carbide and the 20 pin usb header. It sits so close to the rise in the case and there is no way to get it to fit with out most likely bending the pins?
> 
> I just got the Corsair case today and man this pissed me off. Now I am looking to low profile adapters. I have the z77 saber and I just got the z87 saber for the case and it almost looks as if the header sits lower than the z77 version.


have the same problem.
take out that rubber grommet, it helps a little .


----------



## 3FREND




----------



## MotherFo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> Any one have troubele with a Corsair 500 R carbide and the 20 pin usb header. It sits so close to the rise in the case and there is no way to get it to fit with out most likely bending the pins?
> 
> I just got the Corsair case today and man this pissed me off. Now I am looking to low profile adapters. I have the z77 saber and I just got the z87 saber for the case and it almost looks as if the header sits lower than the z77 version.


Try codeless's suggestion of removing the grommet. If that doesn't work, search the thread. I believe a guy sanded it down. Kinda stinky, but it's an option.


----------



## NIK1

Does anyone know how many fans you can run off a Z77mb fan connection. I have 4 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s.Is 4 fans too much for one fan header.


----------



## Solonowarion

Even just cut a piece of the grommet out.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Even just cut a piece of the grommet out.


yes you could do that, but what if you want to sell your case one day.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> yes you could do that, but what if you want to sell your case one day.


pretty sure you can get a new one from corsair for a couple bucks, if that.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> pretty sure you can get a new one from corsair for a couple bucks, if that.


i suppose you right !

i cant tho, the shipping would cost 1000% more plus ill have to pay import tax as well, sigh


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MotherFo*
> 
> Try codeless's suggestion of removing the grommet. If that doesn't work, search the thread. I believe a guy sanded it down. Kinda stinky, but it's an option.


Yeah I was able to get a smaller one to fit it was more rubberized. The Corsair 500r is big plastic block LOL. It is massive. So I found this  http://www.moddiy.com/products/High-Quality-Sleeved-USB-3.0-19%252dPin-Internal-Header-Extension-Cable-%28Low-Profile-Connector%29.html

That should do the trick.

Also I had to reinstall my z77 and RMA my z87. My dimms A1 and A2 would not post or populate causing the memory light to go solid red. Dimm slot B1 B2 worked but I RMA'd the I7 4770k and the MOBO just to be safe. Since the controller is on the actual CPU I didn't want to take any chances. For any one who cares the 2 boards are so much different. They look the same but that is where that ends. The z87 is like a tank it is heavy. The UEFI is similar but there are a lot more parameters. It was pretty simple to do a basic overclock up to 4.2 ghz but to be honest coming from the I7 2600k i didn't notice any unprecedented difference. One thing I did notice is the CPU did feel smoother kinda hard to describe but I noticed it.

About an Official Sabertooth Z87 forum I don't know who would set that up. I still have both boards and NJOI this thread. Thanks for all the help here.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> yes you could do that, but what if you want to sell your case one day.


Could just switch the grommet in another one in the case thats very hidden with cables. I see your point though.


----------



## fvbarc

new 2104 bios aviable


----------



## jordo_123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fvbarc*
> 
> new 2104 bios aviable


don't see it up yet


----------



## jordo_123

sorry it is but i was looking at win 7, ohh well


----------



## trama09

Where can I go about buying new TUF armor? I am thinking about modding mine.


----------



## jt705

Yep the new SABERTOOTH Z77 BIOS 2104 is up on the ASUS site, not sure how good it is


----------



## jt705

BIOS 2104
for some stupid reason Asus decided that you can only flash BIOS using FAT32 formated USB drive, if u use NTFS one u get this is not UEFI BIOS error.


----------



## CODELESS

updated my bios to latest and not seeing any problems, however i did notice a slight improvement in speed when booting into windows. my boot time has probably decreased by 1 second


----------



## NIK1

Can anyone tell me when saving oc profiles to usb,what format must the usb be at, and what size should one use. I tried a little 15.5 mb one that came with my free to air sat receiver and it would not save anything. I have 6 profiles to save and my little usb stick was formatted to fat. Last bios update 2103 I never saved my profiles and after the update all profiles were gone. Any help appreciated. Thanks.....


----------



## jt705

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> updated my bios to latest and not seeing any problems, however i did notice a slight improvement in speed when booting into windows. my boot time has probably decreased by 1 second


WARNING, Don,t install the the new Bios!

I did and then my cat got run over by a car. Coincidence i think not!

P.S Computer is fine though I will miss my cat


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jt705*
> 
> WARNING, Don,t install the the new Bios!
> 
> I did and then my cat got run over by a car. Coincidence i think not!
> 
> P.S Computer is fine though I will miss my cat


i dont know if i should laugh or be sad,
ill do both hahahaha your funny. condolences ,your cat is in a better place chasing butterflies


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jt705*
> 
> WARNING, Don,t install the the new Bios!
> 
> I did and then my cat got run over by a car. Coincidence i think not!
> 
> P.S Computer is fine though I will miss my cat


Bwhaha I hope this a joke because I just spit my coke out. If not rip


----------



## trancefreak64

Man I am pissed well and I guess happy. That new shiny ASUS Sabertooth z87 I posted pictures of with bad dimms well... Has 1 bent socket pin

Newegg took care of me though and are sending a new 4770k and z87 according to them there was a bent socket pin. So I guess me and my ASUS Sabertooth z77 are just to inseparable ATM. I am going to check out the latest bios I see posted especially if I can get a millisecond speed increase on my boot time.

But anyways whats up with these sockets bending so easy. My z77 and every other board I owned never a bent pin. I left a crazy review about the poor quality build of the Sabertooth z87 and ASUS contacted me right away trying to make things right. I guess I am impressed but I don't think everyone out there is dropping screw drivers and and putting there cpus in upside down so what gives? Poor quality with more transistors making the pins weaker? The smaller we go the less ridgid they become I suppose.

I should have my stuff back next week but now I am afraid to even look at the socket funny.


----------



## jt705

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> Bwhaha I hope this a joke because I just spit my coke out. If not rip


Yer.. it was a joke... just having a bit of fun with you all


----------



## trama09

So the 2104 update should only be done via USB? Because I tried updating to 2104 through AISuite, and now I can see the BIOS splash screen. But if I hit escape and/ or enter a few times, I can get to my desktop.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> So the 2104 update should only be done via USB? Because I tried updating to 2104 through AISuite, and now I can see the BIOS splash screen. But if I hit escape and/ or enter a few times, I can get to my desktop.


SO what you saying is your getting hung up on the bios screen? If so did you check what your default boot device is in the bios if I am understanding your post correctly? If you are getting hung up on boot I would load optimized defaults and reconfigure your settings. If its the bios in general I would go back to 2003 if it worked better for you.

I always flash in the bios utility or threw bios flashback. I never trust any software app to flash my Bios. With that being said you can still fix you bios with bios flashback if anything goes wrong. I tried using the bios wallpaper png threw ASUS Suite with bios 2003 and never got it to work out. Bottom line though is it is much safer not doing it inside of windows from my experience.

Another thing unless I read the manual on bios naming rights I always change mine to ZZST.CAP which is obvious to those who use the bios utility.

So did it flash for you okay? Anyways good luck


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> SO what you saying is your getting hung up on the bios screen? If so did you check what your default boot device is in the bios if I am understanding your post correctly? If you are getting hung up on boot I would load optimized defaults and reconfigure your settings. If its the bios in general I would go back to 2003 if it worked better for you.
> 
> I always flash in the bios utility or threw bios flashback. I never trust any software app to flash my Bios. With that being said you can still fix you bios with bios flashback if anything goes wrong. I tried using the bios wallpaper png threw ASUS Suite with bios 2003 and never got it to work out. Bottom line though is it is much safer not doing it inside of windows from my experience.
> 
> Another thing unless I read the manual on bios naming rights I always change mine to ZZST.CAP which is obvious to those who use the bios utility.
> 
> So did it flash for you okay? Anyways good luck


Yeah, I have never used the BIOS flashback before. But after I did, things looks to be back to normal again!

Thanks!


----------



## Uzanar

Good evening ladies and gentlemen!

I'm thinking about pushing my i7 2700K a bit further than my current 4.5GHz but the problem is that the multiplier doesn't change my clock speed for some reason... I mean it simply should do that but no matter what I set it to it's 4.5GHz.

Running 1805-BIOS, any ideas?


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Yeah, I have never used the BIOS flashback before. But after I did, things looks to be back to normal again!
> 
> Thanks!


Awesome glad it worked/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Good evening ladies and gentlemen!
> 
> I'm thinking about pushing my i7 2700K a bit further than my current 4.5GHz but the problem is that the multiplier doesn't change my clock speed for some reason... I mean it simply should do that but no matter what I set it to it's 4.5GHz.
> 
> Running 1805-BIOS, any ideas?


I think 1805 had the multiplier bug if I recall. It wont stick or you can't go any higher? I overclocked the Turbo boost individually on my 2600k and the sweet spot for me is 4.6ghz. Higher doesn't do much more with the heat and higher voltage. I have the LLC on medium and a + offset of .125 and it keeps me under 1.4v


----------



## Uzanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trancefreak64*
> 
> I think 1805 had the multiplier bug if I recall. It wont stick or you can't go any higher? I overclocked the Turbo boost individually on my 2600k and the sweet spot for me is 4.6ghz. Higher doesn't do much more with the heat and higher voltage. I have the LLC on medium and a + offset of .125 and it keeps me under 1.4v


Thanks!

You were probably right because I updated to 2104 and now it works like a charm, my CPU only requires 1.32V for a 24/7 Prime95-stable 4.5GHz so I'm curious to see if I can reach 5.0GHz with an acceptable voltage!


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> You were probably right because I updated to 2104 and now it works like a charm, my CPU only requires 1.32V for a 24/7 Prime95-stable 4.5GHz so I'm curious to see if I can reach 5.0GHz with an acceptable voltage!


Wow nice voltages! I think I was able to get 1.36V without LLC but it can produce the occasional blue screen on my PC even with passing benchmarking testing such as; prime and AIDA.

Sandybridge probably going to go down as one the best CPU's in my book. They are great overclocker's and durable CPU's. Good luck with 5ghz these chips are amazing.


----------



## Based-doge

How do i turn this without a case?

i installed everything perfectally;the cpu,the cooler(stock),the psu,and the hdmi cable?

The motherboard has a a green light on?


----------



## Uzanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NemDiggers*
> 
> How do i turn thiswithout a case?
> 
> i installed everything perfectally;the cpu,the cooler(stock),the psu,and the hdmi cable?
> 
> The motherboard has a a green light on?


If I understood your rant correctly I think you want to turn it on without the power button on a case?
In order to do so you ned to touch a specific pin with a screwdriver as demonstrated right here:


----------



## Based-doge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> If I understood your rant correctly I think you want to turn it on without the power button on a case?
> In order to do so you ned to touch a specific pin with a screwdriver as demonstrated right here:


You rustled my jimmies hard m8.am in a sabertooth thread and you post a video with a gigabyte motherboard?

Plus i just got electrocuted into oblivion trying to discharge due to the hdmi cable dangling..









Anyway brah,tried turning the bios button from behind and it's turned on with the color blue and i have the graphics connected by hdim and the other big cable,still nothing comes on the screen.


----------



## air tree

Does anyone know if you can take of the thermal amour that's included on the Sabertooth z77/Z87?

Not to get rid of it but to paint it.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NemDiggers*
> 
> You rustled my jimmies hard m8.am in a sabertooth thread and you post a video with a gigabyte motherboard?
> 
> Plus i just got electrocuted into oblivion trying to discharge due to the hdmi cable dangling..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway brah,tried turning the bios button from behind and it's turned on with the color blue and i have the graphics connected by hdim and the other big cable,still nothing comes on the screen.


look at your manual, you normally touch the two pins that are the power button (where you normally plug the power button on to the board)


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks.

I will be running 2 GPUs and a soundcard on my system soon.

Will the GPUs run at x8 speed?

Also will having a soundcard have any impact on the PCI speeds?


----------



## jordo_123

yes the cards will run in 8x-8x, as for the sound card i wouldn't think it would impact anything. if this is a new build always go with the best single card you can get over dual cards.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordo_123*
> 
> yes the cards will run in 8x-8x, as for the sound card i wouldn't think it would impact anything. if this is a new build always go with the best single card you can get over dual cards.


I actually have a Titan but I have a very good offer for it. And if I pass on this opportunity than chances are I will have extremely high times selling the Titan in the future here in Turkey.

I am a person who changes GPUs every year or so, hence selling GPUs such as 770 are much easier in Turkey.

I am going for 770 4GB SLI.

Thanks for the info btw. I will evantually move to a 6core CPU and will get a x16 SLI capable motherboard but I am glad to hear that right now x8 will do.


----------



## Based-doge

i would really appreciate if someone could tell me weather my sabertooth is dead from Static e or not?

The green light and the bios button work perfectly?


----------



## Uzanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NemDiggers*
> 
> i would really appreciate if someone could tell me weather my sabertooth is dead from Static e or not?
> 
> The green light and the bios button work perfectly?


Try to start it like the video I linked showed you how to do. It doesn't matter at all that it's an Asus or Gigabyte-motherboard it works the same on 99% of motherboards.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can take of the thermal amour that's included on the Sabertooth z77/Z87?
> 
> Not to get rid of it but to paint it.


Yup you can take it off...there's just a few screws to remove on the back side of the board.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordo_123*
> 
> yes the cards will run in 8x-8x, as for the sound card i wouldn't think it would impact anything...


Yup this is the setup I'm running and it works fine. Installing a sound card in any of the 1x slots or the very bottom PCIe 16x slot won't affect your GPU bandwidth.


----------



## Based-doge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Try to start it like the video I linked showed you how to do. It doesn't matter at all that it's an Asus or Gigabyte-motherboard it works the same on 99% of motherboards.


i gave it to a technician and it WORKED
















Thanks for replying bro.


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Yup you can take it off...there's just a few screws to remove on the back side of the board.


Great, The thermal amour will look great in white!


----------



## miamiblazed

Quick question for someone... I have 16GB (4x4GB) of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz and I was considering buying the Sabertooth Z77 board but to doesn't list 2400MHz on the it's spec sheet nor can I seem to find the QVL for my RAM... Anyone happen to know if the board will run the RAM at its rates speed (over clocking considering of course)
Link to RAM here


----------



## ComputerMD82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miamiblazed*
> 
> Quick question for someone... I have 16GB (4x4GB) of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz and I was considering buying the Sabertooth Z77 board but to doesn't list 2400MHz on the it's spec sheet nor can I seem to find the QVL for my RAM... Anyone happen to know if the board will run the RAM at its rates speed (over clocking considering of course)
> Link to RAM here


I have had absolutely no problems with my Platinums on the Z77 Sabertooth. I have the 16GB / 2400Mhz / 9-11-11-31 versions. Didn't have to tweak anything, just enabled XMP. You should be fine.


----------



## MothMusic

Hi everyone I lost the screws that attach the small panel to the port where you place the 40mm fan on the front of the mobo. I was wondering what they looked like so I could buy some replacements. Can someone show me a picture? Also is there a way to turn down the rpm on the 40mm fans where it is in audible? I tried using the software that came with the mobo but it wouldn't go down low enough.


----------



## jordo_123

i cant hear mine at 50% with asus suite anything more they suddenly turn into jets


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miamiblazed*
> 
> Quick question for someone... I have 16GB (4x4GB) of Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400MHz and I was considering buying the Sabertooth Z77 board but to doesn't list 2400MHz on the it's spec sheet nor can I seem to find the QVL for my RAM... Anyone happen to know if the board will run the RAM at its rates speed (over clocking considering of course)
> Link to RAM here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerMD82*
> 
> I have had absolutely no problems with my Platinums on the Z77 Sabertooth. I have the 16GB / 2400Mhz / 9-11-11-31 versions. Didn't have to tweak anything, just enabled XMP. You should be fine.


I ran some 2400 MHz G.Skill Trident X's (only 2 modules though) for some time and they were solid at 2400 MHz...absolutely no problems.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MothMusic*
> 
> Hi everyone I lost the screws that attach the small panel to the port where you place the 40mm fan on the front of the mobo. I was wondering what they looked like so I could buy some replacements. Can someone show me a picture? Also is there a way to turn down the rpm on the 40mm fans where it is in audible? I tried using the software that came with the mobo but it wouldn't go down low enough.


That sucks I got 2 sets from 2 different boards in front of me. I think they actually might be metric because I just tried to put them in a thread tester and they were too small for size 6/32 and almost fit a 4/40 American standard. If you just want the cover on I would just use a small piece of double sided tape and stick it underneath the lid. it pretty much just snaps in until you could find the screw. Its also a flush mount and not a pan head if you are familiar with the term.

Good luck

EDIT: Sorry the long screw is for my case fan but the small one you need is there.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can take of the thermal amour that's included on the Sabertooth z77/Z87?
> 
> Not to get rid of it but to paint it.


yes, just do a google search of painting my thermal arma


----------



## MothMusic

Thanks Trancefreak that is just what I wanted. Repped


----------



## GodOfGaming

Damn guys, you're lucky that you bought one when they were cheap. I want to buy one right now, really bad, but they've suddenly gotten very overpriced. Like, they were £ 175 a few weeks ago but I couldn't order one then, now I can but they've risen up to £ 250. Is there any hope of prices going back down? Or should I take one before they're all sold out? What about getting an used one, is it a bad idea?


----------



## Outcasst

Does anybody know how to set up the fast boot like in this video? I've tried selecting fastboot in the BIOS but it still takes at least 30 seconds to post before I get to the Windows loading screen.






Also, is there a way to tie my Windows 8 Product Code to the BIOS so it automatically activates on fresh installs?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Does anybody know how to set up the fast boot like in this video? I've tried selecting fastboot in the BIOS but it still takes at least 30 seconds to post before I get to the Windows loading screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there a way to tie my Windows 8 Product Code to the BIOS so it automatically activates on fresh installs?


Try disabled non-Intel SATA controller (ASMedia ASM1061 controller) in BIOS.


----------



## trancefreak64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Does anybody know how to set up the fast boot like in this video? I've tried selecting fastboot in the BIOS but it still takes at least 30 seconds to post before I get to the Windows loading screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there a way to tie my Windows 8 Product Code to the BIOS so it automatically activates on fresh installs?


Not totally sure but i think that is done in a stand by state perhaps using Intel rapid storage technology. Fastboot in the bios is just to bypass certain usb drives and other hardware. Sometimes these card readers will cause a hang as well if you have one..

Did you have it working before and it suddenly stopped or you are just inquiring about it?

I think the PK keys stay. After i removed windows 8 the keys were still loaded in the secure boot in the bios. I don't know enough about windows 8 to really help but hopefully I did.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> Does anybody know how to set up the fast boot like in this video? I've tried selecting fastboot in the BIOS but it still takes at least 30 seconds to post before I get to the Windows loading screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there a way to tie my Windows 8 Product Code to the BIOS so it automatically activates on fresh installs?


hi bud.
ok i have mine setup as follow.
i have 2 SSD in a raid 0, which adds to the speed of loading windows.
but what you saying is that it takes 30 seconds before the windows loading screen appears.
i turned my post at bios screen from 5 seconds to 2 seconds.
and i have fast boot enabled, but there is also another setting to select, im not to sure what its called but i had to change it to keep current ( from normal boot) something like that, which made it boot faster to the windows loading screen.
let us know

that boot up in the video is phenomenal ! i wish i could get my system to boot that fast, mine currently sits at 8/9 seconds to boot into windows and im sure i have the system requirements for that 6.4 second boot time, but i suspect that in that video that windows is doing a hybrid boot, meaning its booting from hibernation, which will explain such a fast boot, ill try it out tonight, i know when i put my pc to sleep it boots kak fast


----------



## Outcasst

I think i've descovered how it's done. To fully support the fast boot (like in the video), your video card needs to have a UEFI BIOS. I've asked for a UEFI BIOS from my manufacturer and they are going to send me one.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> I think i've descovered how it's done. To fully support the fast boot (like in the video), your video card needs to have a UEFI BIOS. I've asked for a UEFI BIOS from my manufacturer and they are going to send me one.


if you get it right, let us know, i too would like a 6 second boot time !


----------



## gabecubano14

I have a gtx 680 which there is uefi for. Is it a good idea to upgrade it to the uefi which is a hybrid bios for legacy and uefi if i have windows I'm not planning on getting windows 8 now or in the future as of yet. Also im booting using legacy. Is switching legacy to uefi going to mess around with any compatibility with any hardware that i have or is the gpu the only hardware that would be affected?

thanks,
gabe


----------



## iARDAs

Hey guys.

Is it a bad idea to connect case fans to the motherboard?


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> Is it a bad idea to connect case fans to the motherboard?


I don't see why it would. Why do you ask?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> I don't see why it would. Why do you ask?


I sometimes read that connecting fans to a fan controller would ease the load on the motherboard. Don't know if it is true or not.

I am moving to a smaller case and I really don't want to purchase a fan controller. I want to connect 4 of the fans to the motherboard directly.

My current Cosmos II has a built in fan controller which is great though. But the new Corsair Air F540 will not have a built in fna controller.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I sometimes read that connecting fans to a fan controller would ease the load on the motherboard. Don't know if it is true or not.
> 
> I am moving to a smaller case and I really don't want to purchase a fan controller. I want to connect 4 of the fans to the motherboard directly.
> 
> My current Cosmos II has a built in fan controller which is great though. But the new Corsair Air F540 will not have a built in fna controller.


Yeah, I see you on the 540 Carbide thread.

But as for load on motherboard. Sure it'll lessen the load. But case fans don't carry that much of a load for a MB to become overwhelmed. Unless you're splitting like 1000 fans to one connector.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> Yeah, I see you on the 540 Carbide thread.
> 
> But as for load on motherboard. Sure it'll lessen the load. But case fans don't carry that much of a load for a MB to become overwhelmed. Unless you're splitting like 1000 fans to one connector.


Yeah true...

I have quiet fans as well so they can work at full speed and I have no issue with that.

I don't have to install the Asus software to control the fans I suppose right?

Last time I installed Asus Suite 2 on my pc, it cause massive boot issues and I removed it completely.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Yeah true...
> 
> I have quiet fans as well so they can work at full speed and I have no issue with that.
> 
> I don't have to install the Asus software to control the fans I suppose right?
> 
> Last time I installed Asus Suite 2 on my pc, it cause massive boot issues and I removed it completely.


If you don't want to control the fans, then you don't need it. I have it Asus Suite 2 on my rig, and it works pretty well.


----------



## tehsu

I've been trying to flash my bios on my Sabertooth Z77, I have tried official bios and modified bios for hackintosh and neither work, I've used flash drives from 512MB to 16GB, after 5 seconds the usb flashback light stays on, I've removed the battery, reset the cmos, disconnected and removed the board from the case, I've tried only the power from the PSU and no go. I am thinking of RMA'ing the board but if anyone has any ideas maybe I am missing something. All the drives are FAT32 formatted in OS X or Windows


----------



## jordo_123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehsu*
> 
> I've been trying to flash my bios on my Sabertooth Z77, I have tried official bios and modified bios for hackintosh and neither work, I've used flash drives from 512MB to 16GB, after 5 seconds the usb flashback light stays on, I've removed the battery, reset the cmos, disconnected and removed the board from the case, I've tried only the power from the PSU and no go. I am thinking of RMA'ing the board but if anyone has any ideas maybe I am missing something. All the drives are FAT32 formatted in OS X or Windows


i think the usb may have to be formatted to fat16 not 100% sure tho as the last time i flashed my bios was a while ago and i had trouble but got there in the end. also you know the file name needs to be changed to something again i can't remember but it's all in the manual you got with the m/board.


----------



## tehsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordo_123*
> 
> i think the usb may have to be formatted to fat16 not 100% sure tho as the last time i flashed my bios was a while ago and i had trouble but got there in the end. also you know the file name needs to be changed to something again i can't remember but it's all in the manual you got with the m/board.


I have the filename set to Z77ST.CAP, I will try Fat16.


----------



## tehsu

I tried fat16, no go, does the same thing as fat32. Looks like I am calling Asus and getting it RMA'd.


----------



## james111333

Hey everyone, I wonder if anyone / a few of you could help?

I'm looking for some PCIe dust covers from the sabertooth, I have been unable to source them direct from Asus so I was wondering if anyone has any spares in the UK? I figured most people would be running a discrete GPU and would never use the extra cover so though it was worth a shot asking









Of course I will cover costs etc so please IM me if you have one gathering dust in a drawer and can help









Thanks guys, James


----------



## jojoenglish85

Im looking to maybe triple up on my video cards here and want to know if it would be worth it on this board or if i should keep it at just two cards. What do you guys think?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> Im looking to maybe triple up on my video cards here and want to know if it would be worth it on this board or if i should keep it at just two cards. What do you guys think?


Not worth it IMO. The last PCIe slot is just 4x or 1x bandwidth (depending on the BIOS setting and slot arrangement). Plus IIRC, it's PCIe 2.0...it's not going to be the best setup for sustaining another GPU. With this board, two GPUs are OK, but I'd look into upgrading to a different motherboard if you want more. You can maybe try to hunt down a Z77 board that has the PLX chip so you get more PCIe bandwidth. With that you can reuse your existing CPU, RAM, etc... and keep the upgrade a bit cheaper.


----------



## Z Overlord

hey guys are the new bios worth it? I am still on 1805 cause I always feel too lazy to take screenies of all my bios settings to preserve my overclock. I'd do it this time though. Any bugs or issues in it you think Asus will release another bios soon?


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> hey guys are the new bios worth it? I am still on 1805 cause I always feel too lazy to take screenies of all my bios settings to preserve my overclock. I'd do it this time though. Any bugs or issues in it you think Asus will release another bios soon?


I would update, I TDR much less with my Nvidia GPU now and stability in general is better.

I would manually set the settings in the DIGI+ Power Control section; I found leaving those settings on auto reduced stability.

I'm on the 2003 bios, I haven't tried the 2104 bios yet.


----------



## saipan

i wouldnt, if the hardware is working fine there really is no point. most of the posts are always people who do update and get into trouble.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> i wouldnt, if the hardware is working fine there really is no point. most of the posts are always people who do update and get into trouble.


i have updated to the latest one and my system is running fine with a 4.5 overclock.


----------



## saipan

i am sure it was working fine before also. but with 6000 posts in this thread i think one of the most common topics is "bios update didnt work what do i do now'.


----------



## replica9000

I'm on whatever BIOS came with the board when I bought it, running overclocked and no issues. No need to update unless there's something specific you need or are having trouble with.


----------



## pcantu

Hi! new to the forum here.

Yesterday my Z77 arrived my home along with a 600w PSU, an i5 3570K, a GTX 770 and 2 x 4G corsair dominator 1866MHz RAM. I built up my system and fired it up. "New CPU detected" and "press F1 to enter BIOS setup" appeared on the screen, I entered the BIOS settings but just a few seconds into it the screen turned all black. I panicked, fearing it was a faulty video card installation I turned the PC off by pressing the case button and checked everything. Nothing seems to be wong or miss placed.

I reused an SSD from another PC and it has a windows installation, I tried to boot it up but as expected, the hardware difference caused a blue screen of death, the screen never went black and makes me think it's a BIOS problem. Every time I boot the PC and enter the BIOS settings the screen goes blank but every time it takes a less amount of seconds before going blank (could it be a warming problem?)

The monitor never goes to standby, meaning there's maybe a video signal present.

I'm at work right now but what I've tried is using an old but perfectly working video card, using only one RAM card at a time (tried with both), disconnected the SSD and the HDD. What i haven't tried yet is formatting and installing windows on the SSD, but I fear it'll became black halfway during the install.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you may have!!


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcantu*
> 
> Hi! new to the forum here.
> 
> Yesterday my Z77 arrived my home along with a 600w PSU, an i5 3570K, a GTX 770 and 2 x 4G corsair dominator 1866MHz RAM. I built up my system and fired it up. "New CPU detected" and "press F1 to enter BIOS setup" appeared on the screen, I entered the BIOS settings but just a few seconds into it the screen turned all black. I panicked, fearing it was a faulty video card installation I turned the PC off by pressing the case button and checked everything. Nothing seems to be wong or miss placed.
> 
> I reused an SSD from another PC and it has a windows installation, I tried to boot it up but as expected, the hardware difference caused a blue screen of death, the screen never went black and makes me think it's a BIOS problem. Every time I boot the PC and enter the BIOS settings the screen goes blank but every time it takes a less amount of seconds before going blank (could it be a warming problem?)
> 
> The monitor never goes to standby, meaning there's maybe a video signal present.
> 
> I'm at work right now but what I've tried is using an old but perfectly working video card, using only one RAM card at a time (tried with both), disconnected the SSD and the HDD. What i haven't tried yet is formatting and installing windows on the SSD, but I fear it'll became black halfway during the install.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help/advice you may have!!


Hey there, first of all, welcome to the Z77 owner´s club
Well i read your post and you didnt mention updating the BIOS.
Are you using the BIOS version that comes with the mobo? If its so, try updating or using a different BIOS, if i remember well you can flash the BIOS without turning the pc on, with a usb (FAT32 format) inserted in the usb on the back of the pc marked with dotted lines and pressing the BIOS flash button nearby, confirm this info with the manual.


----------



## pcantu

Thanks! I hope we can solve this together.

Sorry I didn't mention it: I haven't update the BIOS, I'm using the BIOS version that comes with the mobo. I already downloaded the latest BIOS on the ASUS website and I'll try to update it via USB today. Although because of the release date I believe my mobo came with the latest version.

Another thing that got my attention was that someone mentioned the video resolution may be off limits and my display does not support it (it's an older 1680x1050). It would explain why the monitor never goes to standby but I have my doubts because I can clearly see the BIOS settings screen for a few seconds.

I mean, I think the BIOS is running normally but I just can't see it on screen.

Thanks again!


----------



## Gamedaz

Your video card might not support the New BIOS interface...I installed my gtx 460 temporarily and found it would not boot into BIOS> make sure you have the correct Nvidia drivers> if not you might not get any screen.

I'd remove the GPU Card> plug and connect the monitor to the mobos GPU, go to Nvidia website and download the latest bios> after you install them, re-install GPU card, and you should be able to boot into bios...or there cold be an issue with the previous OS the ssd came from> can you try a fresh install of the OS?


----------



## pcantu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gamedaz*
> 
> Your video card might not support the New BIOS interface...I installed my gtx 460 temporarily and found it would not boot into BIOS> make sure you have the correct Nvidia drivers> if not you might not get any screen.
> 
> I'd remove the GPU Card> plug and connect the monitor to the mobos GPU, go to Nvidia website and download the latest bios> after you install them, re-install GPU card, and you should be able to boot into bios...or there cold be an issue with the previous OS the ssd came from> can you try a fresh install of the OS?


Hi!

Thanks for your reply. I haven't installed windows yet, i tried to run an old windows installation just as a test for the video card. I'll try to install windows tonight and see what happens but I'm afraid it'll give me a blank screen halfway through it.

But prior that, I'll remove the video card and connect the mobo HDMI to my TV and see what happens.

Regards!


----------



## saipan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> I'm on whatever BIOS came with the board when I bought it, running overclocked and no issues. No need to update unless there's something specific you need or are having trouble with.


agreed.


----------



## pcantu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcantu*
> 
> ...I'll remove the video card and connect the mobo HDMI to my TV and see what happens....


So last night I unplugged my blu-ray and plugged the new PC to my TV. Long story short, it worked with no problems at all. I was able to configure the BIOS, install windows, all of the drivers and navigate internet for a while.

As a test, I turned it off and tried again my old monitor with no luck, it went black after several seconds. The PC was able to load windows so I conclude the problem is with the monitor. At first I thought the video card DVIs were faulty but the day before yesterday I tried an old known working geforce 6800 with the same results.

Thanks Pury and Gamedaz for your support! I'm very happy to have joined the SaberTooth Z77 club. Today I'll run some tests on the monitor with a friend's laptop but most likely it's already damaged and I'm gonna have to buy a new one.

Best Regards!


----------



## Gamedaz

cloud_machine_side_panel_Hard drive rack_4.JPG 454k .JPG file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcantu*
> 
> Thanks Pury and Gamedaz for your support! I'm very happy to have joined the SaberTooth Z77 club. Today I'll run some tests on the monitor with a friend's laptop but most likely it's already damaged and I'm gonna have to buy a new one.
> 
> Best Regards!


I just purchased the Asus z77 over the summer and put together my system with this mother board, compared to my previous motherboard X58 gigabyte ud5, this motherboard is simply what I have been waiting for...it has all the fan headers located at all case fan locations, for easy fan plug and play, the BIOS is stunning I don't have to see the monitor garble all this Data when it is loading the OS...just loads into Windows and desktop...the user friendly OC is just what I want to allow the motherboard to O.C without me manually tweaking here and there...1 button O.C.'s it to 4.23GHZ which is fine for me...the 3770k chip runs cooler than the previous 950 I owned...the Motherboards tuff shield is what really draws me to this Technology...with most motherboards the surface mounted chips are exposed, which IMO is not cosmetically appealing, the tuff shield actually allows air from fans to coherently move across the entire motherboard's surface without resistance from onboard capacitors and surface chips as with a regular motherboard...the onboard video is convenient when you need to RMA a GPU card...where you can still use your computer instead of waiting weeks without one, (As I had to when I accidentally shorted my GPU's power connector to the motherboard, which was not an actual electrical short but some type of electromagnetic short from exposed wire?)...the padded IO ports on the back make for a very snug fit without loose connectors> USB connectors fit snug and tighter than my previous motherboard...the onboard fault LED's help diagnose issues visually with out extensive diagnostics (convenient as well)...its surge protection ground issues and humid resistance technology also adds to it's resistance to environmental wear and tear...+ 5 Year warranty adds to a great motherboard if you arn't extreme OC'ing it.

*Here's my Antec case Before Mod: Notice Extreme wires!*



I broke my OS hard drive's sata power connector trying to access it in all those wires, I lost my pc for 2 months because of Western digitals warranty, they sent me a velociraptor without heatsinks? Twice!...finally ordered my own and Wetsern Digital refunded me for the warranteed drive after 3 months. _I ended up modding my Antec case to allow convenient removal of hard drives.

_

*Here's after Installation of Asus Z77*



Bottom fans (120mm Vipre) air flow much more coherent with tuff shield.


----------



## NIK1

I have a Sabertooth Z77 mb and a i5 3570k oc to 4.5ghz in my pc and wonder what is the best ram I can put in her..Just curious on what other tooth owners are using for memory.Right now, I have 16 gigs of corsair vengeance 1600mhz...


----------



## jordo_123

corsair vengance overclocked 1682mhz( or close to that). only due to my bclk being 106.00


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a Sabertooth Z77 mb and a i5 3570k oc to 4.5ghz in my pc and wonder what is the best ram I can put in her..Just curious on what other tooth owners are using for memory.Right now, I have 16 gigs of corsair vengeance 1600mhz...


I got 16GB of RipJawsZ installed. No problems with them and they work great with the board.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a Sabertooth Z77 mb and a i5 3570k oc to 4.5ghz in my pc and wonder what is the best ram I can put in her..Just curious on what other tooth owners are using for memory.Right now, I have 16 gigs of corsair vengeance 1600mhz...


Check this out:


----------



## Mathmodding

hi all, is there a compatible waterblock southbridge below?


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I have a Sabertooth Z77 mb and a i5 3570k oc to 4.5ghz in my pc and wonder what is the best ram I can put in her..Just curious on what other tooth owners are using for memory.Right now, I have 16 gigs of corsair vengeance 1600mhz...


Unless you're looking towards a certain appearance which can vary depending on your ram kit of choice (i.e. dominator platinum, g.skill ripjaws, avexir core series, etc) or have an oversized cooler which requires you to run lowpro dimms, you're pretty much good to go with vengeance 1600 dimms. They're at a nice price point, aren't hideous, have good customer support via corsair, plus it's very unlikely you'll see any difference between them and "higher speed" kits unless you're overclocking to record levels or benchmarking them for a living.


----------



## JayKthnx

sorry to double post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mathmodding*
> 
> hi all, is there a compatible waterblock southbridge below?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This and this are compatible southbridge blocks for Sabertooth P67


----------



## Mathmodding

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> sorry to double post:
> This and this are compatible southbridge blocks for Sabertooth P67


Thanks:thumb:


----------



## martian1

Hi all i need a little advice please







i have had this board for over a year now and due to some of the latest game advances BF4 i want or may need to update my cpu to a i7 [ivybridge] i did update my bios but i am sure new ones are available..what are the current stable trouble free or recommended bios at the moment? i am happy with the bios i have but i am not sure if they support the Intel Core i7-3770K 3.50GHz
My other question is on the graphics card front i think i use pci express 2.0 at the moment but i know the board supports pci express 3.0 is this a big deal with the current new cards on the market i run gtx 580's in sli at the moment but they are getting a little long in the tooth..so to speak








Help much appreciated thanks


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Hi all i need a little advice please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have had this board for over a year now and due to some of the latest game advances BF4 i want or may need to update my cpu to a i7 [ivybridge] i did update my bios but i am sure new ones are available..what are the current stable trouble free or recommended bios at the moment? i am happy with the bios i have but i am not sure if they support the Intel Core i7-3770K 3.50GHz


The bios that comes with the board will happily allow you to run an i7 3770K at default speed or overclocked to whatever you can get.


----------



## martian1

Thanks glad as i forgot how i did the bios update


----------



## Tisca

Those *small fans*; is there any way to *turn them off* without AI Suite or do I have to unplug the power cables? AI Suite messed up my connection speeds so it had to go. I found some setting in Bios but didn't do anything. Are those small fans Assist Fans? Even with that turned off in Bios they still turn. Might have to remove heatsink to get to removing the fans if it gets to that.


----------



## JayKthnx

the assist fan settings in bios should have control over them. you could also make sure that the overtime setting is set to disabled. it'll be located at the bottom of the monitoring tab in bios.


----------



## Simkraf

Hi all...

Just got a new Sabertooth z77... But it seems to be in a continual loop ON/OFF !!!

Im now trying it out of computer case... With only PSU CPU/fan 1stick RAM (and without!)

The power is in 8pin and 24pin

Ive reseated CPU a couple of times carefully with fan too !

I switch on and I get CPU red and then goes off and fan spins and then switches off ?

Then it recycles over and over ???

Quality *Working* PSU Seasonic Gold X 750

Im stuck on what else to do ???

Thank you for your help


----------



## xNutella

gotta love this board TUF and reliable. no big problems so far. mine is Z87 thou.


----------



## trama09

I just changed my CPU cooler to a Kraken x60 with two NF-F14 pwm. But now it boots with a CPU fan error. Please help!


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simkraf*
> 
> Hi all...
> 
> Just got a new Sabertooth z77... But it seems to be in a continual loop ON/OFF !!!
> 
> Im now trying it out of computer case... With only PSU CPU/fan 1stick RAM (and without!)
> 
> The power is in 8pin and 24pin
> 
> Ive reseated CPU a couple of times carefully with fan too !
> 
> I switch on and I get CPU red and then goes off and fan spins and then switches off ?
> 
> Then it recycles over and over ???
> 
> Quality *Working* PSU Seasonic Gold X 750
> 
> Im stuck on what else to do ???
> 
> Thank you for your help


CPU error. It either CPU or motherboard faulty. What CPU do you have?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> I just changed my CPU cooler to a Kraken x60 with two NF-F14 pwm. But now it boots with a CPU fan error. Please help!


Did you connect the 3-pin from x60 to CPU_FAN header?


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> CPU error. It either CPU or motherboard faulty. What CPU do you have?
> Did you connect the 3-pin from x60 to CPU_FAN header?


Yes I did.

I connected the USB, the two Noctua fans to the 4-pin/ SATA thing, and the CPU_FAN header. I can boot into BIOS and just close it to boot up normally, but when monitoring the stuff on the NZXT software, it reads everything but the fan speed.

I even tried connecting a fan to thee CPU_FAN and OPT, and the fans work/ reads.


----------



## JayKthnx

is the fan actually spinning? I'm guessing you're getting a cpu fan low speed error. if so, go into advanced mode in bios > monitoring > cpu fan > low speed alert and change it to a lower rpm, or disable it (not recommended).


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> is the fan actually spinning? I'm guessing you're getting a cpu fan low speed error. if so, go into advanced mode in bios > monitoring > cpu fan > low speed alert and change it to a lower rpm, or disable it (not recommended).


Yes, the fans are spinning. And I have disabled the monitoring in the BIOS. But on the Kraken software or AI SUITE, the fans display 0 RPM, even though I can literally see them spinning.


----------



## JayKthnx

are you using the lna connector with those fans? if so, I'd try without it. I've read about it giving no rpm indications


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> are you using the lna connector with those fans? if so, I'd try without it. I've read about it giving no rpm indications


I am not, my Noctua are running freely.

I can actually control the fans through the software (increase/ decrease) RPM. But I can only tell that things are changing because I can literally hear it get louder and softer. Besides that, there is no indication that, as seen here


----------



## JayKthnx

quick way to verify the fans' rpm module is working properly would be to plug one of them into another case fan header


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> quick way to verify the fans' rpm module is working properly would be to plug one of them into another case fan header


So you're saying to take one of the radiator fans, and plug it into a chassis 4-pin out?


----------



## trama09

So I plugged one radiator fan into CPU_OPT and another in CHA_FAN3. As you can see, they read in AI Suite, but not in the Kraken software.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> I am not, my Noctua are running freely.
> 
> I can actually control the fans through the software (increase/ decrease) RPM. But I can only tell that things are changing because I can literally hear it get louder and softer. Besides that, there is no indication that, as seen here


From the screenshot above, the kraken software able to detect the pump speed which means the pump is running properly. I don't know why it failed to report pump RPM speed (in Asus Thermal Radar) when the 3-pin cable from the x60 CPU block connected to the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard.

With the 3-pin cable from the x60 CPU block connected to the CPU_FAN header, the Asus Thermal Radar should be able to report pump RPM in "CPU fan" field. Also with both fans connected to the 4-pin connector (from the x60 CPU block), the kraken software should be able to report fans RPM. Probably your x60 unit is faulty.


----------



## JayKthnx

now that I think about it, if you have the pump and fans both plugged into the cpu and cpu_opt header, they're probably giving conflicting rpm readouts which would explain why you have no indication but full control. I'd suggest using the extension cables that came with the noctuas and give them a home on a chassis fan header and set up their pwm signal to respond to the cpu diode with an appropriate custom fan curve.

also, check your wiring and connectors for damage, recessed pins, etc while you're in there


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> From the screenshot above, the kraken software able to detect the pump speed which means the pump is running properly. I don't know why it failed to report pump RPM speed (in Asus Thermal Radar) when the 3-pin cable from the x60 CPU block connected to the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard.
> 
> With the 3-pin cable from the x60 CPU block connected to the CPU_FAN header, the Asus Thermal Radar should be able to report pump RPM in "CPU fan" field. Also with both fans connected to the 4-pin connector (from the x60 CPU block), the kraken software should be able to report fans RPM. Probably your x60 unit is faulty.


I called Amazon, and they will be sending me a replacement. Thank you so much for your help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> now that I think about it, if you have the pump and fans both plugged into the cpu and cpu_opt header, they're probably giving conflicting rpm readouts which would explain why you have no indication but full control. I'd suggest using the extension cables that came with the noctuas and give them a home on a chassis fan header and set up their pwm signal to respond to the cpu diode with an appropriate custom fan curve.
> 
> also, check your wiring and connectors for damage, recessed pins, etc while you're in there


I only have the 3-pin from the Kraken CPU block to the CPU_FAN header and the Noctuas the the 4-pin splitter with SATA power. But I will check the pin the cooler.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> I called Amazon, and they will be sending me a replacement. Thank you so much for your help.


Out of four 4-pin fan splitter from the x60 CPU block, only one (primary) 4-pin fan connector have RPM signal pin. See picture below. Make sure you did connect one fan to the primary 4-pin fan connector.



Regarding the pump RPM is not reported by Asus Thermal Radar in "CPU fan" field, make sure the 3-pin connector is connected properly to CPU_FAN header. Try wiggle the connector gently (when the system is power off of course). It may look like the 3-pin is plugged all the way in but the RPM signal pin may not make any contact.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Out of four 4-pin fan splitter from the x60 CPU block, only one (primary) 4-pin fan connector have RPM signal pin. See picture below. Make sure you did connect one fan to the primary 4-pin fan connector.
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the pump RPM is not reported by Asus Thermal Radar in "CPU fan" field, make sure the 3-pin connector is connected properly to CPU_FAN header. Try wiggle the connector gently (when the system is power off of course). It may look like the 3-pin is plugged all the way in but the RPM signal pin may not make any contact.


Which one is the primary?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trama09*
> 
> Which one is the primary?


The one with four pins. The other three missing one pin.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> The one with four pins. The other three missing one pin.


Just tried that. Worked like a charm.

Now I feel like a really big idiot....

12 hours of debugging and it was that obvious.

Thank you so much!


----------



## kizwan

You're welcome!


----------



## Simkraf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> CPU error. It either CPU or motherboard faulty. What CPU do you have?


The CPU is a 3770K... It works good ! So its a Motherboard problem ? Could it be a bad CMOS chip... Would i replace ?

Symptoms : Loop ON/OFF Red light on CPU fan spins then shuts down and repeat ! NOT getting to BIOS

Done bread boarding... Only CPU and Fan now with GOOD PSU ! Reset CMOS battery and CPU carefully

Help ! What to do next please ? Thank you


----------



## JayKthnx

how do you know the cpu is good? do you have another mobo to verify it with?


----------



## Simkraf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> how do you know the cpu is good? do you have another mobo to verify it with?


Hi thank you for quick reply... Yes verified working on friends computer ?

I don't know if to call motherboard dead or change BIOS Chip ?

Or something else i could do ? Are there motherboard testers or how can i flash BIOS if I cannt get to BIOS ?


----------



## JayKthnx

last thing to try before calling asus would be usb bios flashback. you'll need to download a bios file from the asus support page, rename it Z77ST.CAP and put it in the root folder of a flashdrive that's formatted in FAT16 or FAT32. you can download the bios file here. once you get that set up, just follow the instruction on page 2-43 in your mobo user manual. if you don't have the manual handy, you can download that as well at the link I've postedl. it will show you exactly where to plug in the flash drive and everything. if flashing the bios in that manner doesn't work, I would pursue an rma. best of luck and feel free to ask if you need any further guidance.


----------



## Simkraf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> last thing to try before calling asus would be usb bios flashback. you'll need to download a bios file from the asus support page, rename it Z77ST.CAP and put it in the root folder of a flashdrive that's formatted in FAT16 or FAT32. you can download the bios file here. once you get that set up, just follow the instruction on page 2-43 in your mobo user manual. if you don't have the manual handy, you can download that as well at the link I've postedl. it will show you exactly where to plug in the flash drive and everything. if flashing the bios in that manner doesn't work, I would pursue an rma. best of luck and feel free to ask if you need any further guidance.


Thank you for the good advice... I will try this idea










Just wondering if this is possible with Computer switching ON/OFF But its worth a try !

Thank you


----------



## JayKthnx

power supply switch has to be on, but the computer itself is supposed to be off.


----------



## JayKthnx

power supply switch has to be on, but the computer itself is supposed to be off.


----------



## Simkraf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> power supply switch has to be on, but the computer itself is supposed to be off.


Thank you... The BIOS Flash does work ! I tried two different BIOS (light flashes as it updates and goes off after a time* Successful !)

But same thing... Red light on CPU and Fan spins short time 2-3seconds and then in a OFF/ON loop......

So it leaves CPU or Motherboard... I normal build AMD and I'm not happy the pins are all at an angle and how do i know if one is not touching CPU ?

AMD pins slot in to motherboard and are secure ? I think intel solution seems hit or miss if pins are all touching CPU correctly ?

Just a thought ?


----------



## JayKthnx

you can look at the lga socket and check if you have any pins obviously out of alignment. if that happened though, it could easily damage the cpu as well. since you've already eliminated the cpu, psu, bios, etc, I would pursue an rma. if you just bought it within 30 days, I would rma with who you bought it from instead of asus. sorry you got a doa board, but hopefully it won't steer you away from the sabertooth and you'll get a working one next.


----------



## Simkraf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> you can look at the lga socket and check if you have any pins obviously out of alignment. if that happened though, it could easily damage the cpu as well. since you've already eliminated the cpu, psu, bios, etc, I would pursue an rma. if you just bought it within 30 days, I would rma with who you bought it from instead of asus. sorry you got a doa board, but hopefully it won't steer you away from the sabertooth and you'll get a working one next.


Thank you for helping me... Yes rma nest stop !


----------



## Badge56

Sounds like a heat related problem. Is the cpu fan working? Is the heat sink set? Is the fan connected to the correct header?


----------



## JayKthnx

I would be willing to assume that if he was able to boot on his proc on another mobo, he knows how to install his heatsink and cpu fan.


----------



## sonarctica

Sometimes the AI suite II reminds me of voltage warnings and then sometimes my pc shuts down cause of it, and i kinda want the sensor's it has of the temps aswell as of the fan controls it has

But this warning rubbish it pops up with walks on my nerves... So how can i disable that?

Cause i didnt ask to get the AI suite II, only it's sensor app.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Sometimes the AI suite II reminds me of voltage warnings and then sometimes my pc shuts down cause of it, and i kinda want the sensor's it has of the temps aswell as of the fan controls it has
> 
> But this warning rubbish it pops up with walks on my nerves... So how can i disable that?
> 
> Cause i didnt ask to get the AI suite II, only it's sensor app.


If the PC shutdown, then there's likely something wrong with your pc. Don't dismiss the warnings when your computer behave "abnormal". There might be something wrong with your PSU.

Did you ran any monitoring app (e.g. HWmonitor, HWiNFO, Open Hardware Monitor, Core Temp, Real Temp, or any other monitoring software) beside AI Suite II when it gave the warnings?


----------



## sonarctica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> If the PC shutdown, then there's likely something wrong with your pc. Don't dismiss the warnings when your computer behave "abnormal". There might be something wrong with your PSU.
> 
> Did you ran any monitoring app (e.g. HWmonitor, HWiNFO, Open Hardware Monitor, Core Temp, Real Temp, or any other monitoring software) beside AI Suite II when it gave the warnings?


Only aida64

And the error comes when the pc is idle.

Nothing is overclocked atm


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Only aida64
> 
> And the error comes when the pc is idle.
> 
> Nothing is overclocked atm


AI Suite doesn't work well with other monitoring apps. Close Aida64 & don't run any monitoring apps while AI Suite is running. See whether AI Suite still show warnings.


----------



## Z Overlord

so Windows 8 Fast Startup (also known as Hybrid Boot outside of the GUI) creates an event viewer error "the system did not shutdown properly etc". Now if I disable this it's fine, but it is a kinda feature introduced to Windows 8 so it'd be nice if I could use it. I've had it off since a few weeks after Windows 8 launch because I didn't want to risk data loss from apparently not having a proper system shutdown. I now have Windows 8.1 installed and the issue is still there.

I wonder if it's a motherboard setting issue. My pagefile is not on my C/: drive could that somehow cause it?


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Hello all,
Is anyone else having issues trying to download the new Intel Z77 Chipset V9.4.0.1026 for Windows 8 32&64bit from the asus website??? Just curious.

Also has anyone been able to track down any water blocks for either the mobo or just the chipset?


----------



## ole12

http://www.station-drivers.com/

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## ole12

Tapatalk is seriously broken. Can't quote or edit post for ****. But try http://www.station-drivers.com/, they have always updated drivers.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


----------



## sonarctica

Am i the only one here that has 2x deffective usb 3.0 ports on the motherboard? (those over the lan port)


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Am i the only one here that has 2x deffective usb 3.0 ports on the motherboard? (those over the lan port)


What's wrong with them? Thought mine were defective, found out they were accidentally set to legacy mode.


----------



## sonarctica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> What's wrong with them? Thought mine were defective, found out they were accidentally set to legacy mode.


Legacy mode?

Well, i can connect things to it like my phone and external drives, but only by powering them, and not data transfer. Windows doesnt register them at all.


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonarctica*
> 
> Legacy mode?
> 
> Well, i can connect things to it like my phone and external drives, but only by powering them, and not data transfer. Windows doesnt register them at all.


In legacy mode, I was able to use USB keyboards and mice, and power stuff like my phone, but I wasn't able to use flash drives or use my phone as a disk drive. Set it to auto and I was good.


----------



## sonarctica

Well, nothing i connect to those ports will register anything.

But the 2 3.0 ports next to the ethernet port works.


----------



## sonarctica

Hey, the support fans on my motherboard is dead cause of AI suite II allways crashing at startup and i can't uninstall it.. What can i do to fix this?


----------



## Leethal

How do i get the little included Mobo fans to run at a different speed. 4000 rpms is killing my ears!!


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leethal*
> 
> How do i get the little included Mobo fans to run at a different speed. 4000 rpms is killing my ears!!


I sideloaded Fan Expert 2 and controlled them that way.


----------



## trama09

So I just realized that I messed up a couple pins on the USB 3.0 header.... What can I do? Ideally I'd like ASUS to send me a new/ refurbished one, and when I get it, send mine back. But I don't think they work that way.

I assume I am SOL.


----------



## tienjoh

I also had this problem that a couple of my USB 3.0 header pins were bent. Ive managed to get them back straight. or may in any case sufficient for the connector. it took me a lot of time en patieces with a pair of pliers and a straight screwdrive i bent them back.


----------



## trama09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tienjoh*
> 
> I also had this problem that a couple of my USB 3.0 header pins were bent. Ive managed to get them back straight. or may in any case sufficient for the connector. it took me a lot of time en patieces with a pair of pliers and a straight screwdrive i bent them back.


I was considering doing that, but one is completely gone. And I am not talking about that one that is supposed to be gone; there' are only 18pins left....


----------



## Leethal

It says Fan Xpert 2 isn't for the Sabertooth Z77


----------



## Shadowline2553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leethal*
> 
> It says Fan Xpert 2 isn't for the Sabertooth Z77


It may not be for our boards, but it will work and function perfectly fine on them. I've used it to set my custom fan profiles on mine without any harm being done to the board.


----------



## Leethal

Can't find the link for just fan Xpert 2, anyone got it?


----------



## Arizonian

K guys, got a question.

What do I have to do to keep my CPU over clock constant? I've tried different things but don't know why it's down clocking. Multiplier by 45 - stepping OFF - Turbo ON - 1.275v. I want it pegged 24/7. Do we have a steps list I can follow? Can't locate it in search if we do.

http://valid.canardpc.com/fn0cuu


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> K guys, got a question.
> 
> What do I have to do to keep my CPU over clock constant? I've tried different things but don't know why it's down clocking. Multiplier by 45 - stepping OFF - Turbo ON - 1.275v. I want it pegged 24/7. Do we have a steps list I can follow? Can't locate it in search if we do.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/fn0cuu


Have you disabled C1E in the BIOS? And try putting the power plan in Windows to the "Performance" preset.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Have you disabled C1E in the BIOS? And try putting the power plan in Windows to the "Performance" preset.


No....thanks for reminding me of C1E. I had this set before when first purchased but had to do a default setting when I OC'd memory too far and it reset my sweet CPU OC too. Checking that now.

EDIT since I'm still last post:

Thar she blows!

http://valid.canardpc.com/4m0daf

+1 rep thanks for your helpfulness


----------



## kizwan

Disable SpeedStep, C1E, C3 & C6. It will not downclock anymore.


----------



## iARDAs

1866 is the highest supported RAM for our board right guys?


----------



## saipan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821

yep...1866


----------



## kizwan

Of course you guys can overclock higher than 1866MHz.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821
> 
> yep...1866


thanks buddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Of course you guys can overclock higher than 1866MHz.


But we can not use a 2133mhz ram though right?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> thanks buddy
> 
> But we can not use a 2133mhz ram though right?


Actually, you can run 2133 MHz just fine. Personally, I've gone to 2400 MHz with no trouble. With an Ivy Bridge CPU, you can run some fast RAM since they have a good IMC.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Actually, you can run 2133 MHz just fine. Personally, I've gone to 2400 MHz with no trouble. With an Ivy Bridge CPU, you can run some fast RAM since they have a good IMC.


Hmm Interesting.

Can we select 2133 speed from the UEFI?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmm Interesting.
> 
> Can we select 2133 speed from the UEFI?


Yup, absolutely. IIRC, I think it goes up to 2800-ish territory. I can't remember for sure, but there's lots of multipliers for high-speed RAM.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Yup, absolutely. IIRC, I think it goes up to 2800-ish territory. I can't remember for sure, but there's lots of multipliers for high-speed RAM.


Thanksmate 

Why did Sabertoothz77 has 1866 max on the manual though? I wonder.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Thanksmate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why did Sabertoothz77 has 1866 max on the manual though? I wonder.


No problem!









I'm not sure whey they list 1866 either...maybe they added more RAM multipliers with BIOS updates after the manual/specs were printed?


----------



## fvbarc

i have 2133MHz ram


----------



## replica9000

Do you guys actually notice a difference in RAM speeds? Or just to make the benchmarks look good?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> Do you guys actually notice a difference in RAM speeds? Or just to make the benchmarks look good?


Generally it's not going to help much in gaming and stuff...so I wouldn't make a point of getting a high-speed kit. The 1600MHz kits should work for most people. Although, I do recall reading an article the other day showing high-speed RAM made a huge help with BF4 (linky). It's an interesting read, but that's just one game.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Generally it's not going to help much in gaming and stuff...so I wouldn't make a point of getting a high-speed kit. The 1600MHz kits should work for most people. Although, I do recall reading an article the other day showing high-speed RAM made a huge help with BF4 (linky). It's an interesting read, but that's just one game.


i can concur, BF4 is utilizing hi speed ram modules now. Before and with older games it was noted that 1866 ram was optimal speed for games, but seeing with new generations of games like BF4, hi speed memory will improve things.

Subscribe to Lynis Teck tips. they did a whole Test with different memory speeds and how they impacted your FPS in games. they will be doing another one soon as BF4 has thrown the whole Tepology Regarding memory speeds.

So yeah, it can now be safe to say that Hi speed memories do make difference in games (at least BF4 that is)


----------



## JayKthnx

1600 or 1866 are pretty much the sweet spot in price to performance. Only real reason to get higher speeds is for overclocking ghee whiz. The higher price is not justified for just a handful of frames in one game In my opinion. I've seen much the same push towards futureproofing used as an excuse to buy the i7 for gaming. I'm still waiting for hyperthreading to be utilized in more than just crysis 3.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fvbarc*
> 
> i have 2133MHz ram


What type of ram? Im looking to upgrade.And does anyone know if you can 3 way crossfire?


----------



## uglykidmoe

attempting to install and set up raid 0 (as storage) with two raptors, 600g - 2.5" - sata 6g

the board is the asus sabertooth z77. i plug the hd's into the sata 6g's and they are not recognized in the bios (it's the latest for this board), they do show up when plugged into the 3g slots though. ok so sata 3g - enable raid in the bios - f10 and then, according to the mb user guide, i should be able to hit to get into the raid setup, nothing happens, the computer just wants to load the os, which for some reason it can't do, that is until i disconnect the wd's from the sata connections.

any suggestions? thanks in advance folks!


----------



## sonarctica

Will the detachment of the armor be critical for the motherboard? Or is it just better for 5-10 c colder and dust proof?

Cause the bottom support fan is dead and the other one drives me nuts..

And i really want to detatch the armor to get rid of the little pesky sound maker.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> What type of ram? Im looking to upgrade.And does anyone know if you can 3 way crossfire?


no the board only supports 2 way sli and crossfire.

i know with nvidia you can SLI 2 cards and then have another as a physics card.


----------



## JayKthnx

Technically 4 way is supported, though only with dual GPU cards like 690/7990.


----------



## sonarctica

It supports 3 cards. 2x in sli or crossfire (2 way or quad sli/crossfire through 2x dual gpu cards) and one standalone card for dedicated physx, or just to get the extra screens connected.


----------



## JayKthnx

With the other two lanes populated, they'll run at 3.0 x8, which is fine for sli/xfire. The the third pcie lane is 2.0 running at x4. Being such a bottleneck on modern gpu's, it's really not worth it to install a third card imo.


----------



## BVM

I just ordered my 1st Sabertooth mobo tonight to replace my faulty ASUS P68Z Gen3/Deluxe. I went with the Z77 Sabertooth because I just couldn't justify purchasing a 1150 mobo and CPU when I already have a great I2700k. I spent 3 days researching Z77 mobos, YIKES! I almost bought the MSI Mpower but there are a ton of bad reviews on newegg in a row. Scared me right off.


----------



## Anoxy

Hey guys, is anyone running two EK Blocks in SLI on this board and can tell me the distance between each block? I'm trying to figure out what size D-Plug or SLI fitting I need to order.


----------



## saipan

good choice....


----------



## sonarctica

Lol!

I have just removed the thermal armor from my motherboard.. and what happened? The temperature dropped 20c!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JayKthnx

easy possibility that your cpu cooler wasn't mounted correctly or the tim wasn't spread out correctly/had too much before. jsyk


----------



## sonarctica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> easy possibility that your cpu cooler wasn't mounted correctly or the tim wasn't spread out correctly/had too much before. jsyk


If that was for me, then the reason why i detatched it was also cause the lower support fan was dead and the other one was constantly at 70-80% speed.


----------



## kampia

Hello i know this isnt probably the best place to ask, but does anyone know how much does it cost (and if its cost efficient) to repair a mobo if you get a void guarantee. I recently damaged my sabertooth z77 (water spill) and my retailer after telling me my guarantee is void told me to contact ASUS and request a repair. I thought i would drop a post here while im waiting for it to arrive back to me.


----------



## BVM

Wow, so many goodies in the box. I am liking this Sabertooth series!


----------



## Z Overlord

hey guys during TF2 my usb ports suddenly stopped functioning and I had to shut off my PC. I am unplugging unneeded stuff now, I hope that doesn't happen again


----------



## sonarctica

Hey, when overclocking 3770k to determin the voltage needed, to i then need to meassure the idle voltage or the max power voltage to get approx voltage needed for a 4.6ghz clock?


----------



## JayKthnx

here you go
Need to work with max load. Prime95 custom torture test and folding are both good ways to stress your cpu for stability.


----------



## SkyNetSTI

Guys please help!!!
I pushed my neighbor to build a rig.
We bought used part over the internet and had no chance to check them. And problem with MB appeared.
So we can't even install os. BIOS getting crashed every time after working 5-10sec. So no time to do any proper management. No time to update bios.
We tried different memory and cpu. Not helping... There is a 648 posts in this thread so I guess somebody knows what is going on.
Thank You!!!


----------



## JayKthnx

Download bios from the Asus support page for the applicable sabertooth board you're having issues with. Put the file on a fat32 formatted flash drive. Plug the flash drive into the USB bios flashback port denoted on the i/o shield by a blue line connecting a USB to the bios flashback button. Without starting the computer, hold the flashback button until the light in it starts to flash, about 5 seconds. Wait until the light goes out on its own. Try to boot again and let us know what happens. If that doesn't work, you may need a new mobo. Glhf


----------



## SkyNetSTI

Cool, will try, thank You!


----------



## Nextgeo

Hi all..
Im new in this forum and I have a lot of Doubts with My Sabertooth Z77...

Mi specs are
i5 3570k
Sabertooth Z77 (BIOS 1708)
Corsair Vengeance PRo CL9 1866 2x8Gb
SSD 840 Pro 128
MSI 7950 Twin Frozn
Corsair TX650v2

I Try to OC My i5 @4.2Ghz without Turbo.. I put the option TURBO disabled but... When I Put the CPU Ratio in 42 The Turbo Option is Enabled Automatic and I Cant Disabled... Anyone Know How I can Overclock my CPU without Turbo??
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/op2g.jpg/
Now I Have 4,2Ghz By Offset - 0.040 The vcore is 1.11 Whith Prime95 Running and I dont Have Frezzes

And I have other Question Why CPUZ dont Show 4,2Ghz???
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/c0ux.jpg/

Thanks for the reply... And Sorry for my bad english


----------



## invincible20xx

how does the VRMs on this board compares to the ones in the maximus v formula


----------



## SocksWthSandals

Ive been running this board for a little over a year. Running my ram at 1600 (just the speed, not via xmp) I was curious if it really made a difference if my ram was at 1.65v instead of 1.5v. Ive never had any issues. I just don't want to ruin anything (been over a year so probably a little late for that lol)

Edit - http://www.overclock.net/t/1194270/would-1-65v-ram-damage-my-i7-2600k Found this post that answered my question


----------



## invincible20xx

can this mobo run my 16 gb ram kit @ it's rated speed of 2400 MHz ? it doesn't want to post when i set the ram to 2400 MHz.

it only posts when i set it @ 2133 MHz ....

also just replaced my ASRock Z77 extreme 6 with this sabertooth mobo in hopes of getting rid of the inaccurate core voltage reading on the extreme 6 and running my ram @ 2400MHz as the asrock couldn't run them @ 2400MHz as well, but the asrock was iinfamous for not playing nice with 2400MHz ram i hope that's not the case with the sabertooth aswell









also on a side note, is that sabertooth board considered a "high end gaming motherboard"







?


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> can this mobo run my 16 gb ram kit @ it's rated speed of 2400 MHz ? it doesn't want to post when i set the ram to 2400 MHz.
> 
> it only posts when i set it @ 2133 MHz ....
> 
> also just replaced my ASRock Z77 extreme 6 with this sabertooth mobo in hopes of getting rid of the inaccurate core voltage reading on the extreme 6 and running my ram @ 2400MHz as the asrock couldn't run them @ 2400MHz as well, but the asrock was iinfamous for not playing nice with 2400MHz ram i hope that's not the case with the sabertooth aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also on a side note, is that sabertooth board considered a "high end gaming motherboard"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I have Corsair vengeance 2400mhz ram 2x4GB and it runs nicely.
have you updated your bios to the latest version ?
and can you set your ram to XMP mode ?


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> I have Corsair vengeance 2400mhz ram 2x4GB and it runs nicely.
> have you updated your bios to the latest version ?
> and can you set your ram to XMP mode ?


idk if i have the latest bios, idk how to update it either ...

my kit is 2 x 8 GB

XMP doesn't work either










any advice how to make my sabbertooth board run my ram at their rated speed


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> idk if i have the latest bios, idk how to update it either ...
> 
> my kit is 2 x 8 GB
> 
> XMP doesn't work either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any advice how to make my sabbertooth board run my ram at their rated speed


Good advice from CODELESS to upgrade the BIOS.







At least in my experience, it was 1504 (I think) that really helped with high-speed RAM and RAM overclocking in general. So I'd recommend getting on the latest version to see if that helps.

Go here to get to the downloads section for the Sabertooth Z77. Expand the BIOS section and download the 2104 BIOS. Remember to unzip it - you'll get a .CAP file that contains the BIOS.

- Put this on a USB thumb drive.
- Reboot into the BIOS. Set the BIOS to the optimized defaults (it's one of the options in the Exit menu). Save the BIOS and restart.
- Go back in to the BIOS > Advanced Mode and under the "Tools" tab click the "Asus EZ Flash 2" button. The BIOS flash program will start.
- Browse to the .CAP file you saved to your USB drive and click on it.
- Follow the prompts to flash to the newest BIOS.
- Reboot back in to the BIOS, set your options, save and restart again.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Good advice from CODELESS to upgrade the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least in my experience, it was 1504 (I think) that really helped with high-speed RAM and RAM overclocking in general. So I'd recommend getting on the latest version to see if that helps.
> 
> Go here to get to the downloads section for the Sabertooth Z77. Expand the BIOS section and download the 2104 BIOS. Remember to unzip it - you'll get a .CAP file that contains the BIOS.
> 
> - Put this on a USB thumb drive.
> - Reboot into the BIOS. Set the BIOS to the optimized defaults (it's one of the options in the Exit menu). Save the BIOS and restart.
> - Go back in to the BIOS > Advanced Mode and under the "Tools" tab click the "Asus EZ Flash 2" button. The BIOS flash program will start.
> - Browse to the .CAP file you saved to your USB drive and click on it.
> - Follow the prompts to flash to the newest BIOS.
> - Reboot back in to the BIOS, set your options, save and restart again.


*NB: Format the USB in Fat32


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> *NB: Format the USB in Fat32


Ah yes, that's a good point too.


----------



## JayKthnx

FAT format works as well as FAT32


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Good advice from CODELESS to upgrade the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least in my experience, it was 1504 (I think) that really helped with high-speed RAM and RAM overclocking in general. So I'd recommend getting on the latest version to see if that helps.
> 
> Go here to get to the downloads section for the Sabertooth Z77. Expand the BIOS section and download the 2104 BIOS. Remember to unzip it - you'll get a .CAP file that contains the BIOS.
> 
> - Put this on a USB thumb drive.
> - Reboot into the BIOS. Set the BIOS to the optimized defaults (it's one of the options in the Exit menu). Save the BIOS and restart.
> - Go back in to the BIOS > Advanced Mode and under the "Tools" tab click the "Asus EZ Flash 2" button. The BIOS flash program will start.
> - Browse to the .CAP file you saved to your USB drive and click on it.
> - Follow the prompts to flash to the newest BIOS.
> - Reboot back in to the BIOS, set your options, save and restart again.


i updated my bios still no dice can't ruun my ram @ 2400 mhz









maybe i should set the timings manually ?!

also thanks everyone for all the inputs


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> i updated my bios still no dice can't ruun my ram @ 2400 mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe i should set the timings manually ?!
> 
> also thanks everyone for all the inputs










Hmm yeah try setting it manually and see what happens.

TBH, it sounds like you're doing everything right. If you can't get the kit going with manual settings, you might have to RMA the kit.

One more thing I thought of...you can increase the VCCSA setting in the BIOS as this helps with RAM overclocking. The default is around .925V, but try pushing it to 1.050V or 1.100V to see if that helps. Don't go too high on this setting, though because you can cause serious damage to your CPU - always stay under 1.200 V for the VCCSA.


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm yeah try setting it manually and see what happens.
> 
> TBH, it sounds like you're doing everything right. If you can't get the kit going with manual settings, you might have to RMA the kit.
> 
> One more thing I thought of...you can increase the VCCSA setting in the BIOS as this helps with RAM overclocking. The default is around .925V, but try pushing it to 1.050V or 1.100V to see if that helps. Don't go too high on this setting, though because you can cause serious damage to your CPU - always stay under 1.200 V for the VCCSA.


the thing is i don't know what manual timings i should use can you give me a set of numbers to use ? my experience with ram is almost zero, idk where to tinker lol


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> the thing is i don't know what manual timings i should use can you give me a set of numbers to use ? my experience with ram is almost zero, idk where to tinker lol


Oh, I see lol! Do you have a link to your kit? I just want to know for sure what you're running.


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Oh, I see lol! Do you have a link to your kit? I just want to know for sure what you're running.


sure !

http://www.kingston.com/us/memory/hyperx/predator/beast

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104374

thx


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> sure !
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104374
> 
> thx


OK under the Ai Tweaker section, set the Memory Frequency to DDR3-2400. Go to the DRAM Timing Controls, set CAS Latency = 11, RAS to CAS Delay = 13, RAS Pre Time = 13, RAS Act Time = 35, Command Mode = 2. Leave the rest of the timings on Auto. Go back to the Ai Tweaker page and set the DRAM Voltage = 1.65 V. That's it!









Leave the VCCSA setting on Auto for now. If you still can't get things going, then try to increase it a bit as mentioned above.


----------



## Z Overlord

does anyone here have the issue where their USB ports suddenly stop working?

As described here:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?29407-Sabertooth-Z77-usb-2.0-stops-working

It happens to me in game


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> does anyone here have the issue where their USB ports suddenly stop working?
> 
> As described here:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?29407-Sabertooth-Z77-usb-2.0-stops-working
> 
> It happens to me in game


do you have USB Charge enabled in the bios ?
also are they set to legacy ?

i would assume guys here would be able to help you more if you can give use more info in regards to your usb settings such as i mentioned plus
what version Chipset drivers are you using ?
What OS are you running ?

please supply us with all your usb configuration in bios and chipset version, and hopefully we can try troubleshoot with you.


----------



## KostVouts

28/11/2013

NZXT Phantom 410 Update


----------



## martian1

I really could do with some help guys







I just uninstalled 2 gtx 580's and installed an msi gtx 780 i only changed cards. I used an old monitor to set it up as i have very little space in my pc room..anyway at first it would not pick up monitor so i had to hard shut it down with the power button [done this loads without issue]. I then used another monitor and tried to boot but it did not pick up my Samsung ssd plugged into the brown 6gb sata port on mobo it just said no boot device. I went into bios and tried setting Samsung to first boot which did not work when i went into bios again..no Samsung drive..eh
To get pc to boot i have had to use the black 3gb sata port on mobo its fine then but as soon as i plug drive back into original brown sata port it refuses to pick drive up!! Any ideas guys i obviously want my drive to run at its full potential using sata 6gb head scratching now







Help very much appreciated i only have a single drive and a cd rom plugged in btw


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> do you have USB Charge enabled in the bios ?
> also are they set to legacy ?
> 
> i would assume guys here would be able to help you more if you can give use more info in regards to your usb settings such as i mentioned plus
> what version Chipset drivers are you using ?
> What OS are you running ?
> 
> please supply us with all your usb configuration in bios and chipset version, and hopefully we can try troubleshoot with you.


USB charge as in the Asmedia USB 3.0 charge setting in bios? No it's off

I've tried both legacy off and set to auto, still happens on both

I just installed the latest Chipset drivers yesterday still happens.

OS is Windows 8.1 64 bit. Rest of my Specs are below.


----------



## saipan

@martian...put the old cards back in. if all is well that msi card must be messed up


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> I really could do with some help guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just uninstalled 2 gtx 580's and installed an msi gtx 780 i only changed cards. I used an old monitor to set it up as i have very little space in my pc room..anyway at first it would not pick up monitor so i had to hard shut it down with the power button [done this loads without issue]. I then used another monitor and tried to boot but it did not pick up my Samsung ssd plugged into the brown 6gb sata port on mobo it just said no boot device. I went into bios and tried setting Samsung to first boot which did not work when i went into bios again..no Samsung drive..eh
> To get pc to boot i have had to use the black 3gb sata port on mobo its fine then but as soon as i plug drive back into original brown sata port it refuses to pick drive up!! Any ideas guys i obviously want my drive to run at its full potential using sata 6gb head scratching now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help very much appreciated i only have a single drive and a cd rom plugged in btw


Hello
Have you tried resetting BIOS?
i have learned with this and some other motherboards when you change any part, you need to reset the BIOS, then try to boot up into windows with default BIOS settings, if it works then you can apply your overclock settings you had previously and then test to boot into windows again.


----------



## BVM

This was a tricky board to get windows up and running properly. I dont know if it was a bad CD or what but none of the drivers would install correctly. Lucky I just jumped on my laptop and downloaded the newest drivers and sorted it out. 1st time this has ever happened. Otherwise, its a fantastic board.









http://s17.photobucket.com/user/BVM03/media/PC/001_zps6a458cf6.jpg.html

http://s17.photobucket.com/user/BVM03/media/PC/004_zpseb5ed21f.jpg.html

No, I am not a photographer... lol


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone know if I split one of the 4-pin fan headers with a splitter like this and ran 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoons (3-pin) off each header, would I be able to control them with software such as speedfan?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know if I split one of the 4-pin fan headers with a splitter like this and ran 3 Scythe Gentle Typhoons (3-pin) off each header, would I be able to control them with software such as speedfan?


No dice, the splitter you linked is PWM only, so it won't be able to under-volt a GT fan. But something like this would work. The GTs are pretty light on power, so you can run more than one from a single fan header. Just be sure to use the CHS_FAN 1/2/3/4 headers as these are the ones that are voltage controlled on the Sabertooth Z77.


----------



## martian1

Pury you were correct its fixed







appreciate that m8t


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martian1*
> 
> Pury you were correct its fixed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> appreciate that m8t


Excellent!
Im glad i helped.


----------



## RickRockerr

Hi all, I got very strange problem and I think that I didn't change anything before this problem occur. When I boot up my pump have a delay (2-10sec) it wasn't problem before but now if the pump doesn't start right away when i boot my pc i get mem error or gpu error light. If pump starts normally there isn't any problems, I have already tested rams/updated bios/ tried stock settings. If i put pc to sleep and wake it up and the pump doesn't start right away my pc just restarts (cpu temps never hits 60c) after that it just keeps restarting until pump spins. Im not sure if this is the right place to post


----------



## invincible20xx

still can't run my ram @ 2400 mhz they only run @ 2133, too bad, could it be the processor that can't keep up with 2400 MHz ram ?!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> still can't run my ram @ 2400 mhz they only run @ 2133, too bad, could it be the processor that can't keep up with 2400 MHz ram ?!


I'm pretty sure 1866MHz is the limit on this board. Anything higher will be downclocked. At least that's what it says on Asus's website. But if you've got it to 2133, I'm assuming that's the max limit when overclocking is accounted for.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm pretty sure 1866MHz is the limit on this board. Anything higher will be downclocked. At least that's what it says on Asus's website. But if you've got it to 2133, I'm assuming that's the max limit when overclocking is accounted for.


i had my corsair dominator platinums run @2400 without any problem, tried overclocking more but the heat was too intense.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm pretty sure 1866MHz is the limit on this board. Anything higher will be downclocked. At least that's what it says on Asus's website. But if you've got it to 2133, I'm assuming that's the max limit when overclocking is accounted for.


Running my Corsair vengeance 2400mhz kit at 2400mhz just fine.

i have not tried to push it any higher as i have no need to.


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Running my Corsair vengeance 2400mhz kit at 2400mhz just fine.
> 
> i have not tried to push it any higher as i have no need to.


please try to help me here :

http://www.overclock.net/t/1447982/somebody-please-help-me-run-2400-mhz-ram-on-my-z77-asus-sabertooth-core-i7-3770k-4-6-ghz


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i had my corsair dominator platinums run @2400 without any problem, tried overclocking more but the heat was too intense.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> Running my Corsair vengeance 2400mhz kit at 2400mhz just fine.
> 
> i have not tried to push it any higher as i have no need to.


Nice! I was just going by the Asus website, but clearly they don't list the actual limits of their hardware....


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice! I was just going by the Asus website, but clearly they don't list the actual limits of their hardware....


they won't because they consider overclocks not safe.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> please try to help me here :
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1447982/somebody-please-help-me-run-2400-mhz-ram-on-my-z77-asus-sabertooth-core-i7-3770k-4-6-ghz


ok.

do the following for me.

Reset your bios to optimal settings.
flash your Bios to the latest (2104 i think) if you are running that version then maybe flash it to 1805.
then once done flashing Reset bios to optimal settings again. restart.
then try set your memory to XMP and see if it boots up. do not overclock CPU yet.
also try one stick at a time if possible.

if it doesnt work then i would try find a friend or someone that has a deferent brand of memory or any memory that is rated to run 2400mhz and see if that memory runs at 2400.
if any other memory runs at 2400 then your sticks might be faulty. if no other memory runs at 2400 then it could be your mobo or cpu.


----------



## jaaa1976

I want try flash bios chip with universal programmer..but cant find bios bin for program sabertooth z77 chip with programmer..
can somebody send my dumb file bios or link ..because my motherboard wont boot ..so I want try this options..


----------



## invincible20xx

can't control the fan speed on this motherboard without the leds of the fans dimming, they are 4 pin pwm fan why does the board control fan speeds using voltage instead of pwm ?!

i mean 4 pin fans plugged in 4 pin fan headers but can't control the fan speeds without lowering the voltage instead of actually using the pwm function !


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> can't control the fan speed on this motherboard without the leds of the fans dimming, they are 4 pin pwm fan why does the board control fan speeds using voltage instead of pwm ?!
> 
> i mean 4 pin fans plugged in 4 pin fan headers but can't control the fan speeds without lowering the voltage instead of actually using the pwm function !


That's just the way the Sabertooth Z77 works (or most Z77 Asus boards, actually). The CHS_FAN 1/2/3/4 headers work only by voltage reduction even though they appear to be a PWM header. The only true PWM headers on this board are the CPU and CPU_OPT headers along the top edge.

You could always use something like a PWM splitter (assuming you want all your fans to follow the same PWM cycle) like this. The would provide the full 12V to the fans while allowing the PWM signal to be passed on. One end connects to the PSU and the PWM end connects to the CPU/CPU_OPT connector.


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> That's just the way the Sabertooth Z77 works (or most Z77 Asus boards, actually). The CHS_FAN 1/2/3/4 headers work only by voltage reduction even though they appear to be a PWM header. The only true PWM headers on this board are the CPU and CPU_OPT headers along the top edge.
> 
> You could always use something like a PWM splitter (assuming you want all your fans to follow the same PWM cycle) like this. The would provide the full 12V to the fans while allowing the PWM signal to be passed on. One end connects to the PSU and the PWM end connects to the CPU/CPU_OPT connector.


too bad, the extreme 6 i had before used to control the side fans on my haf 932 via pwm, without dimming the lights on them well guess i'll just have to deal with it

you got an idea why i can't make a fan spin less than 60% of it's duty cycle ?! the bios refuses any value less than 60% duty cycle !

to be honest i'm kind of disappointed in this board the extreme 6 i had before had better features wasn't it for that bad v-core sensor i would have never made the jump on that expensive sabbertooth also i blamed the extreme6 for not being able to run my 2400 mhz ram sticks but i was wrong same exact behavior on the sabertooth


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> too bad, the extreme 6 i had before used to control the side fans on my haf 932 via pwm, without dimming the lights on them well guess i'll just have to deal with it
> 
> you got an idea why i can't make a fan spin less than 60% of it's duty cycle ?! the bios refuses any value less than 60% duty cycle !


I'm not sure why we can't go below 60% duty cycle...I got the same issue here as well. Can't do much about it, sadly.


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> too bad, the extreme 6 i had before used to control the side fans on my haf 932 via pwm, without dimming the lights on them well guess i'll just have to deal with it
> 
> you got an idea why i can't make a fan spin less than 60% of it's duty cycle ?! the bios refuses any value less than 60% duty cycle !
> 
> to be honest i'm kind of disappointed in this board the extreme 6 i had before had better features wasn't it for that bad v-core sensor i would have never made the jump on that expensive sabbertooth also i blamed the extreme6 for not being able to run my 2400 mhz ram sticks but i was wrong same exact behavior on the sabertooth


Sounds to me like your CPU's memory controller can't handle 2400


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> Sounds to me like your CPU's memory controller can't handle 2400


i also thought that but he is running a i7 ?
i run a i5 and memory at 2400mhz


----------



## JayKthnx

Not all chips are created equally. I believe IB is only rated up to 1866 officially, but many chips have been able to handle higher speed kits. He may be one of the unlucky people to get a chip that only runs as advertised, or close to it. Only other thing to rule out is trying another 2400 kit, or each stick of his individually to check if he has a bad dimm in the kit.


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> Not all chips are created equally. I believe IB is only rated up to 1866 officially, but many chips have been able to handle higher speed kits. He may be one of the unlucky people to get a chip that only runs as advertised, or close to it. Only other thing to rule out is trying another 2400 kit, or each stick of his individually to check if he has a bad dimm in the kit.


i think i will just live with it, the difference between 2133 and 2400 should be minimal right ? also i'm locked in @ 60 fps maxed out on all games at all times with thiss build even in the newest patch of games ( battle field 4, batman origins and so on ) so why would i bother pushing anything higher before i upgrade that 1080p monitor which is likely not happening for 2 years because that display is just enough in my eyes specially with the great color reproduction it provides


----------



## azture

*Anyone able to help me out here*, I just updated to the latest bios using the EZ flash thing in the bios, it worked fine. But now sometimes when I boot is just stays on the black screen, and my CPU t*emps have risen 20-30 degrees* *IDLE* now, from *30 to 50-60* and my *gfx temps have shot up from 25 to -58-61 idle*. I checked the temps like 10mins before doing the bios update and they were fine. I've checked all my hardware and everything seems ok, my water cooling seems fine but the temps have just gone through the roof since the update. Any advice?


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azture*
> 
> *Anyone able to help me out here*, I just updated to the latest bios using the EZ flash thing in the bios, it worked fine. But now sometimes when I boot is just stays on the black screen, and my CPU t*emps have risen 20-30 degrees* *IDLE* now, from *30 to 50-60* and my *gfx temps have shot up from 25 to -58-61 idle*. I checked the temps like 10mins before doing the bios update and they were fine. I've checked all my hardware and everything seems ok, my water cooling seems fine but the temps have just gone through the roof since the update. Any advice?


Hello
After you updated BIOS, did you load "default optimized BIOS' option (meaning= Reset BIOS)?
Try resetting BIOS or Load default optimized , dont change any setting in BIOS just yet, then boot into windows, if everything is good, then restart, go back to BIOS and then load your overclocking settings if you had any overclocking and previously saved any BIOS settings or simply set manually your overclock settings and try to boot in windows again.
If none of this works, then try to downgrade BIOS to a previous version.


----------



## azture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Hello
> After you updated BIOS, did you load "default optimized BIOS' option (meaning= Reset BIOS)?
> Try resetting BIOS or Load default optimized , dont change any setting in BIOS just yet, then boot into windows, if everything is good, then restart, go back to BIOS and then load your overclocking settings if you had any overclocking and previously saved any BIOS settings or simply set manually your overclock settings and try to boot in windows again.
> If none of this works, then try to downgrade BIOS to a previous version.


Hello thanks for the reply,
I've already tried to go into my bios and reset to optimized settings, and the issue remains. I did this before I did a bios update as well to avoid any problems. So resetting the bios hasn't worked :/ My cpu is now idling at 65-70. Somethings gone horribly wrong here :/

I'll try down grading the bios and let you know what happens. All though my flat mates appear to have lost all my USB's so that might prove difficult -.-


----------



## jaaa1976

Asus Sabertooth z77 won't post

Hallo..im bought from ebay faulty mobo and trying to find what is problem with motherboard.
Cpu is brand new i5 3570K.
The board powered up for half a second and then powered down, repeating the cycle every 5 seconds
The fans do not spin up. The red CPU led light up during the half second until the baord shuts down.
Cpu fan is spin up.

So far i've tried:
-flashed latest bios ..didnt help.
-Resetting CMOS.
-Every single memory slot with both sticks and 1 stick
-vhen Im press MemOk nothing happens.
-power supply is working because it stays on when I try it with a old MB.
-memory work ok..Im try on asus maximus formula v motherboard
Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-14900C9 1866MHz Dual Channel Kit
I have motherboard on table..not inside case..
Im check for bent pins with magniffier..all pins is good ..
Its nice looking motherboard ..without visible damage.
Anyone have any clue what the problem might be?


----------



## NUR21

Hi to All,
After update sabertooth z77 bios my windows stop working and dlink DWA556 PCI stop working as well win 7 64 bit don't see at all and i have 2 boot systems on this motherbord
Any advise
Jeff


----------



## tdrloux

I am looking for a Air Cooler to my Sabertooth z77.
I already know that the cooler (heatsink) must be higher than 40mm to dont hit the RAM and the sabertooth heatsink.

Can you guys tell me some models that are compatible with the z77 sabertooth?

Thank you!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I am looking for a Air Cooler to my Sabertooth z77.
> I already know that the cooler (heatsink) must be higher than 40mm to dont hit the RAM and the sabertooth heatsink.
> 
> Can you guys tell me some models that are compatible with the z77 sabertooth?
> 
> Thank you!


I've had a Megahalems and Noctua NH-D14 (with 3x NF-P12 fans) fit with absolutely no issues.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I've had a Megahalems and Noctua NH-D14 (with 3x NF-P12 fans) fit with absolutely no issues.


thank you!
I am looking for a cheaper air cooler, in Brazil the noctua d14 is more expensive than corsair h100i









I know Corsair A70 fits, but it's all unavaible


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I am looking for a Air Cooler to my Sabertooth z77.
> I already know that the cooler (heatsink) must be higher than 40mm to dont hit the RAM and the sabertooth heatsink.
> 
> Can you guys tell me some models that are compatible with the z77 sabertooth?
> 
> Thank you!


I'm running a CM Hyper 212 Evo with no problems.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> I'm running a CM Hyper 212 Evo with no problems.


Nice!!!
Could you post a photo? I would like to see how it looks


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Nice!!!
> Could you post a photo? I would like to see how it looks


It does touch the top of the RAM stick closest to it, but it doesn't cause any issues.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> does anyone here have the issue where their USB ports suddenly stop working?
> 
> As described here:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?29407-Sabertooth-Z77-usb-2.0-stops-working
> 
> It happens to me in game


reposting


----------



## CODELESS

but i stil can not answer the question as to why and whats causes it.
i do know that there is a usb problem on the board and most of them have been fixed by bios and driver updates.

tell me.... have you tried testing with a new PSU ?


----------



## JayKthnx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> It does touch the top of the RAM stick closest to it, but it doesn't cause any issues.


Hyper 212+ here with corsair vengeance ram. No issues. Check my sig rig for pics.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> but i stil can not answer the question as to why and whats causes it.
> i do know that there is a usb problem on the board and most of them have been fixed by bios and driver updates.
> 
> tell me.... have you tried testing with a new PSU ?


my only psu is the one below in the system specs. Does that PSU have a history of doing something like this?


----------



## Geneaux

Due to Haswell, is this board discontinued? The only retailer that still carries it that i've found thus far is TigerDirect. Newegg and Amazon have left me in the rain however.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> does anyone here have the issue where their USB ports suddenly stop working?
> 
> As described here:
> 
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?29407-Sabertooth-Z77-usb-2.0-stops-working
> 
> It happens to me in game


sometimes in game it does a mini hang too, like the mouse stops and the game skips a bit.

is there some way to test what component is causing this problem? Like can it be the cpu or the mobo or ram or psu? I've removed my OC and reinstalled Windows, it's still here.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z Overlord*
> 
> sometimes in game it does a mini hang too, like the mouse stops and the game skips a bit.
> 
> is there some way to test what component is causing this problem? Like can it be the cpu or the mobo or ram or psu? I've removed my OC and reinstalled Windows, it's still here.


the only way you can test each component is to replace it with another and then play your games and see what happens.
so find a friend that will help you out on the weekend.

swap out your PSU, then test, if it still happens then swap the CPU, if it still happens swap the Ram, if it still happens swap the Graphics card.

if all that fails then you might just have a faulty chipset on the mobo, or the mobo is faulty.
are you installing your games onto your SSD ?


----------



## jaaa1976

Im flash today bios again and motherboard boot ..but Can't Access BIOS.
Press DEL to entere UEFI BIOS setting ...
I press dell and F2 but nothing..
any suggestions?


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> the only way you can test each component is to replace it with another and then play your games and see what happens.
> so find a friend that will help you out on the weekend.
> 
> swap out your PSU, then test, if it still happens then swap the CPU, if it still happens swap the Ram, if it still happens swap the Graphics card.
> 
> if all that fails then you might just have a faulty chipset on the mobo, or the mobo is faulty.
> are you installing your games onto your SSD ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> the only way you can test each component is to replace it with another and then play your games and see what happens.
> so find a friend that will help you out on the weekend.
> 
> swap out your PSU, then test, if it still happens then swap the CPU, if it still happens swap the Ram, if it still happens swap the Graphics card.
> 
> if all that fails then you might just have a faulty chipset on the mobo, or the mobo is faulty.
> are you installing your games onto your SSD ?


I _think_ I may have fixed it via disabling xHCI in bios


----------



## skiline

hey guys i just did a bios update since i installed a raid 0 and installed windows 8.1 on this mother board

i overclock set everything so my O.C would be stable at 4.5ghz running stable at 1.3v but my cpu stays at 4.5ghz all the time how to get back
default settings but keep my O.C at 4.5 ghz

in the default setting the cpu would go to 3.8ghz but went to 1.5ghz i believe when i did not need the cpu to run higher

im at manual settings

set cpu to blck 100
ratio 45
offset mode + 0.65v increase


----------



## CODELESS

enable your C States and in windows set your power options to balanced.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> the only way you can test each component is to replace it with another and then play your games and see what happens.
> so find a friend that will help you out on the weekend.
> 
> swap out your PSU, then test, if it still happens then swap the CPU, if it still happens swap the Ram, if it still happens swap the Graphics card.
> 
> if all that fails then you might just have a faulty chipset on the mobo, or the mobo is faulty.
> are you installing your games onto your SSD ?


ok it's still happening so I tested the cpu (stock) via LinX, passed 50 tests no error. I used memtest86 on ram, passed. I guess I can try another psu but judging from this:

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?29407-Sabertooth-Z77-usb-2.0-stops-working

I think it's the mobo


----------



## Libes

I used an old monitor setup for my small space in my computer room. Anyway, first of all it does not have to pick up the monitor's power button to turn it hard [to do this load without problems]. Then I use another monitor and try to start but Brown 6GB SATA port on the motherboard to insert do not take my Samsung SSD just say no boot device.


----------



## CODELESS

yeah, seems like a mobo issue.
the one guy made a good point to install a pci usb card, or try the internal usb.

if you can and want to, RMI the board.

i on the other hand cant live without a pc and ill just buy a PCI usb card.


----------



## tdrloux

Hi guys

I have a little issue with my z77 sabertooth:


As you can see, the asus motherboard indicates a lower temperature than hwmonitor.
This is a problem to control the fans.

My bios version is the 1908.


----------



## tdrloux

Here is my rig:


Running at 4.5ghz with 1.288v.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I have a little issue with my z77 sabertooth:
> 
> 
> As you can see, the asus motherboard indicates a lower temperature than hwmonitor.
> This is a problem to control the fans.
> 
> My bios version is the 1908.


HW monitor reads CPU's own sensor when thermal radar reads mobo's cpu sensor and that's why it shows lower temps. Cpu temp in thermal radar is meaningless.

And by the way here's my build:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I have a little issue with my z77 sabertooth:
> 
> 
> As you can see, the asus motherboard indicates a lower temperature than hwmonitor.
> This is a problem to control the fans.
> 
> My bios version is the 1908.


I have the same issue...in fact, I've had this on every motherboard/CPU combination I've used. From what I understand, the "CPU" reading comes from a temp sensor in the socket while the "Core" readings (obviously) come from the actual cores on the CPU. I've just adjusted the manual fan control the compensate for this. In my case, under max load the "CPU" reading is around 55°C (warmest core is at 75°C though).


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Here is my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running at 4.5ghz with 1.288v.


Nice overclock!


----------



## bweezyy

Hi guys!









A couple of days ago I was rearranging my case little bit.
As this was a part of changing the placement of my SSDs and HDD, I had to replug them.
When I was done with my little case rearrangement, I plugged the SSDs and HDD back as they were before, and turned on my PC. Then I get the error: "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key_".

This has happened a few times before. Then I just had to format my OS drive (one of my two SSDs) and reinstall Windows, then all worked fine, and didn't think much more about it.
But now this doesn't solve my problem. I can boot 1 or 2 times, then the error appears again.

I have tried everything I can think of, and have not found any solution on the internet.

I am pretty sure it is my motherboard (Sabertooth Z77 ofcourse) because I tried installing Windows on the other SSD I have, but the exact same thing happens on this SSD as the other one.

I am thankful for every response I get!









-bweezyy


----------



## jktmas

new graphics card, new HDD, and new and improved cable management!
For a graphics card, i didn't have too much of a budget, so i went with a refurb ASUS radeon 7950 DC2 for $260
enjoy the pictures




Spoiler: More Pics inside















And a new setup, i went with two monitors on my desk this time, and my tv on the other side of my tower for movies and netflix stuff.


----------



## tdrloux

update:

I am using overclock with offset and Intel Speed step...
The turbo is 4.4ghz, 1.256v

the offset is at "-0.100v", because de VID is 1.360v

In idle (1.6ghz) the processor should run at 1.000v, but because of the offset it runs around 0.910v

does it damage the processor?
all is running perfect, idle and stress, no blue screns...


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> update:
> 
> I am using overclock with offset and Intel Speed step...
> The turbo is 4.4ghz, 1.256v
> 
> the offset is at "-0.100v", because de VID is 1.360v
> 
> In idle (1.6ghz) the processor should run at 1.000v, but because of the offset it runs around 0.910v
> 
> does it damage the processor?
> all is running perfect, idle and stress, no blue screns...


Nope nothing wrong with that.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Nope nothing wrong with that.


thank you!

I have another question:
Is better use low CPU PLL voltage?
I am running PLL at 1.725, but at 1.71 is stable too.
Wich is better?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> thank you!
> 
> I have another question:
> Is better use low CPU PLL voltage?
> I am running PLL at 1.725, but at 1.71 is stable too.
> Wich is better?


The advantage of lowering the CPU PLL voltage is it can sometimes help lower CPU temps. So if this is the case for you, definitely lower it as much as you can as long as you're still stable.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> The advantage of lowering the CPU PLL voltage is it can sometimes help lower CPU temps. So if this is the case for you, definitely lower it as much as you can as long as you're still stable.


Hum, understood.

I will use 1.725, my temps are awesome with this prolimatech megahalens


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Hum, understood.
> 
> I will use 1.725, my temps are awesome with this prolimatech megahalens


Lower temps are always better







I'm running 4,7GHz atm with 1.5V pll


----------



## flo-oc

Hi guys









could you tell what do you think about my settings ?





















mo : Sabertooth Z77
Cpu : i7-3770k --->Thermalright SilverArrow SB-e

Gpu : Gtx 680 TOP DCII 2 Go

Ram : Kingston HyperX X2 Grey DDR3 2 x 4 Go 1600Mhz

SSD : Intel 335 - 240 Go
HDD : Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 - SATA III 6 Gb/s - 2 To

Psu : Seasonic Platinum 860W
Case : CoolerMaster HafX


----------



## jktmas

got some white leds in from amazon... i got a little more than i expected...


----------



## invincible20xx

is that motherboard comparable to the maximus v formula ?!


----------



## Anoxy

Has anyone here removed the Armor and put waterblocks on their board? Watercool Heatkiller makes some nice blocks that I was considering, but it looks like I would need to remove the Armor, and I don't know if it's worth it.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Has anyone here removed the Armor and put waterblocks on their board? Watercool Heatkiller makes some nice blocks that I was considering, but it looks like I would need to remove the Armor, and I don't know if it's worth it.


The one that benefit watercooling will be the MOSFETs. I don't know VRMs on Z77 boards running hot or not when overclocking, especially high overclocking, >4.6GHz. If you have temp probe, you can attach one on the VRMs heatsink & monitor the temperature. This way you'll know whether watercooling the motherboard, especially the MOSFETs (VRM), is worth it or not.


----------



## pfinch

Hey guys,

i got a swiftech h320 compared with 6x NF-F12 PWMs push/pull.

The PWM Splitter needs a PWM-Pin on the Mainboard and the Pump needs one...i want seperatly control the pump and the fans.

I just connected the Pump to the CPU_Fan-Pin on the mainboard and the splitter to CHA_Fan3.
The PWM-Control doesnt work with the splitter but Pump works well ...
On CPU-header it works too.

So...the Cha_FAN_x-Headers don't support PWM-Control and just control fans via voltage???


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfinch*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> i got a swiftech h320 compared with 6x NF-F12 PWMs push/pull.
> 
> The PWM Splitter needs a PWM-Pin on the Mainboard and the Pump needs one...i want seperatly control the pump and the fans.
> 
> I just connected the Pump to the CPU_Fan-Pin on the mainboard and the splitter to CHA_Fan3.
> The PWM-Control doesnt work with the splitter but Pump works well ...
> On CPU-header it works too.
> 
> So...the Cha_FAN_x-Headers don't support PWM-Control and just control fans via voltage???


Yes you got it right. CPU and CPU_OPT are PWM (but CPU_OPT PWM cycle comes from CPU, so it's not actually separately controlled). CHA_FAN 1/2/3/4 are indeed voltage only despite having what looks like a 4-pin PWM header.


----------



## pfinch

asus marketing fail ! ... that sucks!!!

thanks for your response


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Does anyone have a sli configuration and if so are there any specific settings for an sli setup?
Thank you.


----------



## Anoxy

I do, and no there aren't any specific settings afaik


----------



## JayKthnx

Just typical nvidia settings nothing special for the mobo.


----------



## Fester1

I need some help. I've got all my components (rig in my sig) in there boxes and the only thing I have left to get are 3rd party fans. I'm going to have two intake fans in the front and one outtake fan in the back of my Fractal R4 case. However, I'm confused on whether to get NF-A14-PWM or NF-A14-FLX.

1) Should I get a PWM splitter and connect all the fans via the Sabertooth's CPU_FAN

OR

2) Should I get 1 PWM fan and connect it to CPU_FAN and then get two FLX fans for CHA_FAN 1 and 2?

I've never put together a PC before so this is all new to me (and confusing).

Also, If I go with option 1, how would the ASUS software read the fans? Also, can this motherboard handle 3 fans plugged into the same header?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> I need some help. I've got all my components (rig in my sig) in there boxes and the only thing I have left to get are 3rd party fans. I'm going to have two intake fans in the front and one outtake fan in the back of my Fractal R4 case. However, I'm confused on whether to get NF-A14-PWM or NF-A14-FLX.
> 
> 1) Should I get a PWM splitter and connect all the fans via the Sabertooth's CPU_FAN
> 
> OR
> 
> 2) Should I get 1 PWM fan and connect it to CPU_FAN and then get two FLX fans for CHA_FAN 1 and 2?
> 
> I've never put together a PC before so this is all new to me (and confusing).
> 
> Also, If I go with option 1, how would the ASUS software read the fans? Also, can this motherboard handle 3 fans plugged into the same header?


I'd go with option 2. It'll give you the ability of individually controlling fans and give you more flexibility in adjusting the air flow in your case.

Also to answer your question about multiple fans on one header, the software will sense the RPM of only one fan...this is how PWM splitters generally work. In the case of the Sabertooth Z77, the fan headers are OK with 1 Amp (12 Watts) total per header. So you'll have the check the ratings of the fans you want to connect and be sure the sum is well below that. Also keep in mind sometimes the start up voltage of fans can initially be higher than spec'd, so take that into consideration as well. As a general rule of thumb, when considering your typical 120mm fan, 2 fans per header will usually be OK.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Fester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I'd go with option 2. It'll give you the ability of individually controlling fans and give you more flexibility in adjusting the air flow in your case.
> 
> Also to answer your question about multiple fans on one header, the software will sense the RPM of only one fan...this is how PWM splitters generally work. In the case of the Sabertooth Z77, the fan headers are OK with 1 Amp (12 Watts) total per header. So you'll have the check the ratings of the fans you want to connect and be sure the sum is well below that. Also keep in mind sometimes the start up voltage of fans can initially be higher than spec'd, so take that into consideration as well. As a general rule of thumb, when considering your typical 120mm fan, 2 fans per header will usually be OK.
> 
> Hope this helps!


These will be 140mm fans. So, how would the Asus software work for all these fans? I don't understand why there is one PWM header on the motherboard. That doesn't seem to make any sense. Is getting the 1 PWM fan even worth it? Also, maybe a dumb question but how am I supposed to know what to set these fans controls at?

I no literally nothing about what speeds a fan should be or even how to set them up. I literally have all the stuff listed in my rig, sitting in boxes (some as long as 9 months).


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> These will be 140mm fans. So, how would the Asus software work for all these fans? I don't understand why there is one PWM header on the motherboard. That doesn't seem to make any sense. Is getting the 1 PWM fan even worth it? Also, maybe a dumb question but how am I supposed to know what to set these fans controls at?
> 
> I no literally nothing about what speeds a fan should be or even how to set them up. I literally have all the stuff listed in my rig, sitting in boxes (some as long as 9 months).


You can certainly do the voltage controlled (FLX version) all around in the case since there will be enough headers on the Sabertooth Z77. With PWM headers, CPU and CPU_OPT are the only ones on the board while CHS_FAN 1/2/3/4 are voltage controlled only. But to be honest, I would just save the CPU and CPU_OPT headers for the CPU fan(s). They both run the same PWM speed (CPU_OPT just copies what CPU is at) so this is handy, for example, if you want to run a push/pull fan setup on your CPU cooler.

Regarding the fan speed, I've got very little experience with Asus Thermal Radar...I poked around a bit with it, but never felt the need to keep it installed. But it's quite straight forward the way it works. You'll have a fan curve that will adjust the fan speed based on the temperature of the CPU. It'll be something like this:



In this example, you can see that when the CPU is less than 30°C, the fan speed is at 40%. Then it gradually increases to 50% as the CPU approaches 45°C. Then it makes it's way to 100% as the CPU temp approaches 65°C. Under the Fan Name pull down menu, you'll have the option of selecting which fan you want to create the curve for. Now on the other hand, you can manually control fans in the BIOS as well (leaving the software out of the picture). It still works by adjusting the fan speed based on the CPU temperature, but you won't have the same flexibility as with the software. In the BIOS, it's quite simple - you set an upper CPU temperature and the fan speed you want with that, and then you set a lower CPU temperature and the fan speed you want with that. From there, the fan speed is scaled between those two limits.

Regarding fan speeds, it's not a dumb question.







There's really no right or wrong way to do it as long as your temps are good. The Noctuas are reasonably quiet fans, so you might be OK just running them full speed all the time if you are OK with the noise. Otherwise, it's a matter of figuring out how low you can run the fan until it's quiet enough for you and building a fan curve for that. Keeping Speed Step enabled will clock the CPU way down when it's idle and this keeps temperatures very low. Similarly, your graphics card will do the same and likely idle near 30°C. With that, you have the opportunity to run the fans nearly silent. And when CPU speeds ramp back up then the Noctuas will speed up and start pulling more cool air into the case.

I hope this helps, just post back if you have any more questions.


----------



## jaaa1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaaa1976*
> 
> I want try flash bios chip with universal programmer..but cant find bios bin for program sabertooth z77 chip with programmer..
> can somebody send my dumb file bios or link ..because my motherboard wont boot ..so I want try this options..


Sabertooth stuck now on boot logo...please ..can someone send bios file for universal programer?
should be Size: 8192k


----------



## Gamedaz

* On the subject of fans, I'd like to know the specs for the 40mm assist fan 3 pin module.

*I'm considering using X1 or even 2 120mm fans installed in the first PCI slot> there are some pci slot fan available online> but I'm going to fabricate my own, using custom fans...I would like to know if I can at least plug 1 120mm fan on the assist fan pin header?*


----------



## Fester1

I thought I had read that CPU_FAN is the only true PWM header? What is CPU_OPT then? Also, I read that CPU_OPT can't be speed controlled so it seems like I would either have the options to:

1) Use CPU fan on CPU_FAN (I have a NF-F12 PWM fan as a replacement fan for the Hyper 212 EVO. ) and three FLX fans for CHA_FAN1-3.

OR

2) Use a splitter for all 4 fans and plug them all into CPU_FAN.

Is that right? If I did option 2, I wouldn't be able to control each fan individually, right?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> I thought I had read that CPU_FAN is the only true PWM header? What is CPU_OPT then? Also, I read that CPU_OPT can't be speed controlled so it seems like I would either have the options to:
> 
> 1) Use CPU fan on CPU_FAN (I have a NF-F12 PWM fan as a replacement fan for the Hyper 212 EVO. ) and three FLX fans for CHA_FAN1-3.
> 
> OR
> 
> 2) Use a splitter for all 4 fans and plug them all into CPU_FAN.
> 
> Is that right? If I did option 2, I wouldn't be able to control each fan individually, right?


CPU_OPT is also PWM but is a slave to CPU. So what ever you have CPU set to, CPU_OPT will follow. But because of that, CPU_OPT cannot be separately controlled. I suspect the idea behind it is for CPU coolers that have dual fans - you just have to set up fan controls for one header and both fans will follow it.

Regarding option 2, you're right - running a PWM splitter will not allow individual control over each fan on the splitter. All it does is just copy the PWM signal to each fan connected to it. If you'd like individual control over each fan, option 1 will indeed work nicely for you.


----------



## Fester1

Thanks for all the help so far. So, is there any benefit for me to be able to individually control the case fans? I mean, I would think the two front intake and rear outtake should always be running at whatever speed, in unison? If that's the case, then a splitter connected to CPU_FAN would be the best bet. Although, if I did that, where would the heatsink fan connect to? If I put it on CPU_OPT, it would have the same settings as the case fans.

1) Is there any recommended alternative software that I could consider using? It seems as though fan xpert doesn't correctly recognize core temps (sometimes reads 20 degress lower). I saw speed fan mentioned. Can anyone recommend that?

2) I need to connect a NF-F12PWM to the Hyper 212 EVO. However, it is my understanding that the CPU_OPT will be controlled in the same way as the CPU_FAN header with ASUS software. Apparently there is no way to make them separate. That doesn't seem like that will work at all. Wouldn't the 120MM fan on the Hyper 212 EVO need to ramp up more than the two front and one back 140MMcase fans?


----------



## gatornation240

Switched from H100 to NH-U9B due to all these AIO cooler horror stories I've been seeing and I'd rather not rely on Corsair to replace my parts so I made the switch and looks as if it wasn't much of a downgrade as I thought, temps are acceptable.


Gonna try and get better pic today spent some time wire tucking this weekend. Still loving this board, if I can find a 3770K for a good price this year I may do another build with this mobo.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far. So, is there any benefit for me to be able to individually control the case fans? I mean, I would think the two front intake and rear outtake should always be running at whatever speed, in unison? If that's the case, then a splitter connected to CPU_FAN would be the best bet. Although, if I did that, where would the heatsink fan connect to? If I put it on CPU_OPT, it would have the same settings as the case fans.
> 
> 1) Is there any recommended alternative software that I could consider using? It seems as though fan xpert doesn't correctly recognize core temps (sometimes reads 20 degress lower). I saw speed fan mentioned. Can anyone recommend that?
> 
> 2) I need to connect a NF-F12PWM to the Hyper 212 EVO. However, it is my understanding that the CPU_OPT will be controlled in the same way as the CPU_FAN header with ASUS software. Apparently there is no way to make them separate. That doesn't seem like that will work at all. Wouldn't the 120MM fan on the Hyper 212 EVO need to ramp up more than the two front and one back 140MMcase fans?


Glad to help!









Individual fan control is really a matter of personal preference and what works with your chassis. For me, I just like the flexibility...so I just keep my 4 chassis fans connected to CHS_FAN 1/2/3/4. With that, I can tweak and adjust each fan how I want. If I want them to all run at the same speed, I just set them that way in the BIOS. On the other hand, if I want, for example, more cool air over the GPU, I will run that particular intake fan faster than the rest. Don't forget even though the CHS_FAN 1/2/3/4 headers are non-PWM, you can still control fans connected to these headers.

Regarding fan control software, Speed Fan is about the only alternative that comes to mind. My experience is quite limited with it, however. I've seen it mentioned that voltage controlled headers are hit and miss with Speed Fan (PMW is normally fine though).

Regarding point 2, it won't be an issue (I'm assuming the scenario with all case fans and CPU fans connected to one PWM splitter?). When you have different models of fans connected to the same PWM splitter, they will always ramp up to their maximum speeds when the PWM signal goes to 100%. Similarly, when the PWM signal goes down to 0%, then the fans will all run at their minimum speed. It does not matter if the RPM is different on the fans or anything like that...what counts is where the PWM signal is at. I hope that makes sense.









So just to re-cap, I'd say your best bet is to run NF-A14-FLX on CHS_FAN 1, 2, and 3 and run the 212 Evo PWM Fan on CPU_FAN. Come to think of it, I did a build for a buddy using the Fractal Arc Midi R2 with a similar setup (212 Evo as well, but just stock fans instead of Noctuas) and no problems with CPU cooling at all.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Switched from H100 to NH-U9B due to all these AIO cooler horror stories I've been seeing and I'd rather not rely on Corsair to replace my parts so I made the switch and looks as if it wasn't much of a downgrade as I thought, temps are acceptable.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna try and get better pic today spent some time wire tucking this weekend. Still loving this board, if I can find a 3770K for a good price this year I may do another build with this mobo.


Looks good!







Just out of curiosity, how much of a difference in temps did you get going to the Noctua?


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Looks good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how much of a difference in temps did you get going to the Noctua?


Thanks brother,
H100


Noctua


+13* but I'll deal with it rather than an RMA with Corsair for the AIO. IRRC the temps I got with the h100 the room was ice cold (windows open/cold day) and the temps with the Noctua I had the HEAT running in my townhouse so in my mind it's right there with the H100, 4 hours of BF4 and then 2 hours of Skyrim right after it yesterday resulted in 63* max on core 3


----------



## Gamedaz

*Anyone know about the assist fans 3pin power connector? Can it power a 120mm fan?


----------



## saipan

I have my 3570k oc'ed at 4.2. I have a CM evo 212 cpu cooler at even after hours of heavy gaming my cpu is still only 40C. Is it good cooling or a bad temp reading. I figured it would be hotter. I use the ai suite for temps and used a 3rd party program to double check.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> I have my 3570k oc'ed at 4.2. I have a CM evo 212 cpu cooler at even after hours of heavy gaming my cpu is still only 40C. Is it good cooling or a bad temp reading. I figured it would be hotter.


Sounds about right to me.







What load temps did you have with Prime95?


----------



## Fester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Glad to help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So just to re-cap, I'd say your best bet is to run NF-A14-FLX on CHS_FAN 1, 2, and 3 and run the 212 Evo PWM Fan on CPU_FAN. Come to think of it, I did a build for a buddy using the Fractal Arc Midi R2 with a similar setup (212 Evo as well, but just stock fans instead of Noctuas) and no problems with CPU cooling at all.


That makes sense to me. I'm going to purchase 3 of the FLX fans tonight








Thanks again for your help & +1 rep


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> That makes sense to me. I'm going to purchase 3 of the FLX fans tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help & +1 rep


Sounds good! Best of luck with your build.


----------



## DoktorCreepy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saipan*
> 
> I have my 3570k oc'ed at 4.2. I have a CM evo 212 cpu cooler at even after hours of heavy gaming my cpu is still only 40C. Is it good cooling or a bad temp reading. I figured it would be hotter. I use the ai suite for temps and used a 3rd party program to double check.


Whats your voltage at?

I'm at 1.385 and at idle I'm around 45C right now using core temp with the other stuff in my sig system; I stay around that temp when playing moba's and other not very demanding games.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gatornation240*
> 
> Thanks brother,
> H100
> +13* but I'll deal with it rather than an RMA with Corsair for the AIO. IRRC the temps I got with the h100 the room was ice cold (windows open/cold day) and the temps with the Noctua I had the HEAT running in my townhouse so in my mind it's right there with the H100, 4 hours of BF4 and then 2 hours of Skyrim right after it yesterday resulted in 63* max on core 3


sup dude, i feel your pain regarding the H100i and the AIO watercooling.

nothing bad has happened to me yet, but i cleaned my case the other day and i noticed on my H100i, the rubber rings that hold the tubes in place have started to crack. this is very worring for me as i dont want a leak while my system is on. it looks so bad that im starting to stress about it.

is there anyone that can tell me what i should do.
im thinking lets put new tubes on and a res, but thought if i change the tubes what do i use to secure the tubes ? i dont want to use the rubber rings as they too will also crack after some time.

tho , the guys at Corsair say its nothing to worry about as its just for cosmetics.
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120418


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sup dude, i feel your pain regarding the H100i and the AIO watercooling.
> 
> nothing bad has happened to me yet, but i cleaned my case the other day and i noticed on my H100i, the rubber rings that hold the tubes in place have started to crack. this is very worring for me as i dont want a leak while my system is on. it looks so bad that im starting to stress about it.
> 
> is there anyone that can tell me what i should do.
> im thinking lets put new tubes on and a res, but thought if i change the tubes what do i use to secure the tubes ? i dont want to use the rubber rings as they too will also crack after some time.
> 
> tho , the guys at Corsair say its nothing to worry about as its just for cosmetics.
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120418


Thanks for posting, yeah and your h100i is newer/better than my h100, so glad I switched asap. From looking at your pics and going to the thread you linked it does look similar to whats happening over there and that does appear to be a hose covering but that still makes me feel uneasy personally. Maybe just for your sanity zip tie/hoseclamp something around them like the OP said he was going to do;or relocate the rad like suggested. But from what Ive heard Corsair's RMA department is legit so if any problems arise I'm sure they will cover it.Save that thread/Corsair Guru quote.


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CODELESS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sup dude, i feel your pain regarding the H100i and the AIO watercooling.
> 
> nothing bad has happened to me yet, but i cleaned my case the other day and i noticed on my H100i, the rubber rings that hold the tubes in place have started to crack. this is very worring for me as i dont want a leak while my system is on. it looks so bad that im starting to stress about it.
> 
> is there anyone that can tell me what i should do.
> im thinking lets put new tubes on and a res, but thought if i change the tubes what do i use to secure the tubes ? i dont want to use the rubber rings as they too will also crack after some time.
> 
> tho , the guys at Corsair say its nothing to worry about as its just for cosmetics.
> http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=120418


how old i is that H100I


----------



## gatornation240

Seems as if this happens regardless of age, the thread he linked the OP had it happen in the first 3 months.


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> how old i is that H100I


1st of Feb will be one year.


----------



## saipan

1.27 v


----------



## Sfirculitu

Hello!

I Have this problem with the Thermal Radar


I Google it but i dont really know how to resolve it..
Can you give me some Pointers Please..

And Something else. its going to be an issue with the Mobo if just remove the Fans?


----------



## saberkick

Hello guys, a quick question regarding the Sabertooth mb and speed fan control.

I have 6 Yate loon fans plugged on the 2 4pins CPU fan headers, they are plugged through 2 3pin to 3x3pin adapter. That means I have 3 YL on each CPU header.
Anyway it seems that it's impossible to regulate the speed of the fans ! I could do it before with my Silver Arrow, so why it doesn't work with the YL ??

Is there any solution to that ? Speedfan doesn't seem to help anything either.

Thanks !!!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saberkick*
> 
> Hello guys, a quick question regarding the Sabertooth mb and speed fan control.
> 
> I have 6 Yate loon fans plugged on the 2 4pins CPU fan headers, they are plugged through 2 3pin to 3x3pin adapter. That means I have 3 YL on each CPU header.
> Anyway it seems that it's impossible to regulate the speed of the fans ! I could do it before with my Silver Arrow, so why it doesn't work with the YL ??
> 
> Is there any solution to that ? Speedfan doesn't seem to help anything either.
> 
> Thanks !!!


Are your Yate Loons PWM? With CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT connectors, it's PWM control only, no voltage control.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I Have this problem with the Thermal Radar
> 
> 
> I Google it but i dont really know how to resolve it..
> Can you give me some Pointers Please..
> 
> And Something else. its going to be an issue with the Mobo if just remove the Fans?


This happened to me a couple of times, in my case the issue was a software for pc optimising like ccleaner or tuneup utilities, when you run registry cleaner it deletes registry files from asus softwares specially from the thermal radar, i managed to set exceptions on my tuneup utilities reg cleaner for this registry locations:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\AppID\AsusFanControlService.EXE
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Wow6432Node\CLSID

In your case it it recommendable to uninstall Asus AI Suite II, run a registry cleaner software, reboot, set your exceptions on your registry cleaner software and it should be working. Hope this works for you.


----------



## saberkick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Are your Yate Loons PWM? With CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT connectors, it's PWM control only, no voltage control.


No they are not







I was afraid of that, but I found an easy fix, I just plugged them on some other free fan headers and now they are controlled and completely quiet.

Thanks.


----------



## Sfirculitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Are your Yate Loons PWM? With CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT connectors, it's PWM control only, no voltage control.


Thanks for the answer i appriciate it!
Yep Hope it helps will see..
But if just remove the fans is going to be a problem?


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone know if removing the thermal armor has any negative effects? I think I would prefer the aesthetic of the board without the armor for my build.


----------



## JayKthnx

all you'll lose is the mount points for the assist fans. everything else still works the same as it would with the armor installed.


----------



## Anoxy

Sweet, thank you.


----------



## Sfirculitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone know if removing the thermal armor has any negative effects? I think I would prefer the aesthetic of the board without the armor for my build.


Do you used your mobo withoute the fans?
I Wanna know becuse i want remove them if is gona have any (bad) effect on the mobo..


----------



## JayKthnx

Not using your assist fans only raises the temp by a degree or two. I honestly just use mine because I'm too lazy to remove them. Lol


----------



## gatornation240

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> Do you used your mobo withoute the fans?
> I Wanna know becuse i want remove them if is gona have any (bad) effect on the mobo..


I've been running since September of 2012 without fans, never put them in, they are still in the bags in the mobo box. Your Vcore/Vcore (back) temps may rise a hair without them


----------



## Sfirculitu

Thank you Guys i appreciate it! Time to work


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> Do you used your mobo withoute the fans?
> I Wanna know becuse i want remove them if is gona have any (bad) effect on the mobo..


I use the fans, but I have them set in BIOS to only turn on at a certain temperature (can't remember what exactly), so they pretty much never come on. I would rather deal with warmer temps than listen to those whiny little pieces of crap lol.

That said, I'm running a full custom loop so I'm not really worried about temps on the mobo as my case stays very cool.


----------



## jdstock76

Any one having a sensor issue on the MB registering correct temps? I honestly just think it's a faulty sensor because randomly it will go from 0 to 100 deg C especially when using Prime95. This is also using ASUS fan and temp monitoring software as well as RealTemp.

Must also state that since dialing in my CPU to 4.75 I haven't really played around much the last 6 months or so. I just noticed it as an annoyance.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Any one having a sensor issue on the MB registering correct temps? I honestly just think it's a faulty sensor because randomly it will go from 0 to 100 deg C especially when using Prime95. This is also using ASUS fan and temp monitoring software as well as RealTemp.
> 
> Must also state that since dialing in my CPU to 4.75 I haven't really played around much the last 6 months or so. I just noticed it as an annoyance.


Are you just using the Asus software to monitor temps? FWIW, I'm using AIDA64 and seems to be no problems here.


----------



## SniperChicken

Hello.

I have a question regarding sound card compatibility on my Sabertooth Z77.

The soundcard I'm thinking about purchasing is the "ASUS Xonar Essence ST 7.1 Channel PCI Sound Card 24BIT Headphone AMP 124DB SNR"

However I have one concern I want clarification on. The BUS compatibility for this particular sound card is "PCI v2.2 or above bus compatible ". According to my owners manual my Sabertooth Z77 motherboard has 6 PCIe slots. Two of these slots are 3.0 x16 and the remainder are 2.0.

My question is can I use this soundcard on my motherboard? I've researched that PCIe slots are used for video cards whereas PCI slots are used for sound cards/other cards. According to the sound card the sound card needs PCI... not PCIe

Do I need to purchase a sound card compatible with PCIe in order to work on my Sabertooth Z77 motherboard.

Thank you.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperChicken*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have a question regarding sound card compatibility on my Sabertooth Z77.
> 
> The soundcard I'm thinking about purchasing is the "ASUS Xonar Essence ST 7.1 Channel PCI Sound Card 24BIT Headphone AMP 124DB SNR"
> 
> However I have one concern I want clarification on. The BUS compatibility for this particular sound card is "PCI v2.2 or above bus compatible ". According to my owners manual my Sabertooth Z77 motherboard has 6 PCIe slots. Two of these slots are 3.0 x16 and the remainder are 2.0.
> 
> My question is can I use this soundcard on my motherboard? I've researched that PCIe slots are used for video cards whereas PCI slots are used for sound cards/other cards. According to the sound card the sound card needs PCI... not PCIe
> 
> Do I need to purchase a sound card compatible with PCIe in order to work on my Sabertooth Z77 motherboard.
> 
> Thank you.


No the Xonar Essence ST won't work since the Sabertooth Z77 has no PCI slots. What you'll need to get instead is the Xonar Essence ST*X* which is pretty much the same sound card with a PCIe interface instead.









Linky

Early on PCIe was indeed typically used for video cards simply because it has so much more bandwidth. In the early days of PCIe, there weren't many devices outside of video cards that actually used that interface. Come to think of it, I recall there were even some issues getting sound cards to work properly with PCIe many years ago which is why they seemed to stay on PCI for so long. But, theses days it's not a problem...I've been through a few PCIe sound cards now without any troubles.


----------



## SniperChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> No the Xonar Essence ST won't work since the Sabertooth Z77 has no PCI slots. What you'll need to get instead is the Xonar Essence ST*X* which is pretty much the same sound card with a PCIe interface instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linky
> 
> Early on PCIe was indeed typically used for video cards simply because it has so much more bandwidth. In the early days of PCIe, there weren't many devices outside of video cards that actually used that interface. Come to think of it, I recall there were even some issues getting sound cards to work properly with PCIe many years ago which is why they seemed to stay on PCI for so long. But, theses days it's not a problem...I've been through a few PCIe sound cards now without any troubles.


Thank you for your response. I appreciate it. Now I must decide between that sound card or the Asus rog xonar phoebus... However the STX requires a 2.2 or higher PCIe. My z77 only has two 3.0 and four 2.0 .... If I get the STX Essence then I will not be able to SLI or Crossfire my card as the graphics cards use 3.0 ....


----------



## JayKthnx

I had a stx sandwiched right between both of my 670's when I had them on z77 with no issues. temps remained the same and I didn't have any clearance or system compatibility issues.



hard to see what's going on, but you can see the front panel audio going to the stx.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperChicken*
> 
> Thank you for your response. I appreciate it. Now I must decide between that sound card or the Asus rog xonar phoebus... However the STX requires a 2.2 or higher PCIe. My z77 only has two 3.0 and four 2.0 .... If I get the STX Essence then I will not be able to SLI or Crossfire my card as the graphics cards use 3.0 ....


You'll have no problems running the Essence STX...I used to run one on my Sabertooth Z77 with no issues. And you'll have no problem fitting in the card and still run SLI/Crossfire. Don't forget that you can also install a PCIe 1x sound card in the very bottom PCIe 2.0 16x (physical) slot. That's one of the nice perks about PCIe - if the card physically fits, it will work in the slot. There's no need to install a 1x device in a 1x slot...it'll work in a 4x or 16x slot as well.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> I had a stx sandwiched right between both of my 670's when I had them on z77 with no issues. temps remained the same and I didn't have any clearance or system compatibility issues.
> 
> 
> 
> hard to see what's going on, but you can see the front panel audio going to the stx.


Yup same here, I just run my sound card in the very bottom slot instead.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Are you just using the Asus software to monitor temps? FWIW, I'm using AIDA64 and seems to be no problems here.


I stopped using the ASUS software. I also use AIDA64 as well. Like I said since dialing it in I haven't really tinkered with it. Thou I have been getting the itch to push 5.0Ghz.









I actually like the on board sound from this MB and didn't see a need to upgrade. You guys like using the sound cards?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I stopped using the ASUS software. I also use AIDA64 as well. Like I said since dialing it in I haven't really tinkered with it. Thou I have been getting the itch to push 5.0Ghz.










Interesting...it might be worth checking in at the AIDA64 forum and see what they say. Like I say, I don't have any issues like that on my end. But, if everything is stable and working well, then it's likely not a problem.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> I actually like the on board sound from this MB and didn't see a need to upgrade. You guys like using the sound cards?


Yeah I'm pleased with mine. I game on headphones mostly, so the Creative SBX Surround is quite awesome for that.







Otherwise, running a sound card is just personal preference.


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know what's the best and fastest memory a sabertooth z77 can handle with a I5 3570K.Any suggestions appreciated.


----------



## JayKthnx

most people I've seen running higher clock ram on this board use 2400 vengeance and the likes


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know what's the best and fastest memory a sabertooth z77 can handle with a I5 3570K.Any suggestions appreciated.


I'm running some G.Skill Trident X 2400 MHz here with no problems. It's been a great kit for me.









Linky


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

Is it normal that my button to Flash Bios flashes some light in normal use on computer?

Like i`m doing nothing related to my BIOS, just using the computer. I can't remember if i ever saw it happening.

Thanks.


----------



## NIK1

For some reason my oc profiles wont let me type in a name in the slot for a new oc of my memory.When I type a name for the new profile nothing changes from the old name that's in there from before.Anyone know what could be wrong..


----------



## AgentSquirrel

My build is about 6 months old and just started to see an error today, "CPU Fan Error" it seems to be intermittent. Watching thermal radar I am indeed seeing the
fan speed going to 0 momentarily. I have a Swifttech H220 AIO ( pump and fans) connected to a splitter which is then connected to CPU fan connecter.
When this happens I dont see or hear any change in the fans. According to thermal radar the cpu is running at about 22C, speed fan oddly says 1c.
I have never been able to figure out how to run the fans with either thermal radar or speed fan. So I dont know what is going on here. Possible pump failure,
or a fan setting any advice in diagnosing this?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgentSquirrel*
> 
> My build is about 6 months old and just started to see an error today, "CPU Fan Error" it seems to be intermittent. Watching thermal radar I am indeed seeing the
> fan speed going to 0 momentarily. I have a Swifttech H220 AIO ( pump and fans) connected to a splitter which is then connected to CPU fan connecter.
> When this happens I dont see or hear any change in the fans. According to thermal radar the cpu is running at about 22C, speed fan oddly says 1c.
> I have never been able to figure out how to run the fans with either thermal radar or speed fan. So I dont know what is going on here. Possible pump failure,
> or a fan setting any advice in diagnosing this?


I've got the same setup as you and haven't experienced this. TBH this sounds like it could be an issue with the H220 pump. Your fans won't change speed with the lack of an RPM signal since they are completely controlled by the PWM signal. So when the pump RPM signal goes to 0, your H220 fans will still be going.

Regarding fan speed control, I just do it using the CPU Q-fan settings in the BIOS since I don't like to run software for that. But, the Asus Fan Xpert 2 will work as well if you prefer that. As long as your fans are PWM (which the stock Switech H220 fans are) then you'll get fan speed control no problem.


----------



## AgentSquirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I've got the same setup as you and haven't experienced this. TBH this sounds like it could be an issue with the H220 pump. Your fans won't change speed with the lack of an RPM signal since they are completely controlled by the PWM signal. So when the pump RPM signal goes to 0, your H220 fans will still be going.
> 
> Regarding fan speed control, I just do it using the CPU Q-fan settings in the BIOS since I don't like to run software for that. But, the Asus Fan Xpert 2 will work as well if you prefer that. As long as your fans are PWM (which the stock Switech H220 fans are) then you'll get fan speed control no problem.


I thought that might be the case with fans still running and the pump failing, I called swiftech and spoke with a tech (real easy by the way) . He advised that if it was a pump failure that my temps should start to skyrocket, which I'm seeing nothing of the sort. he also told me that he as a Asus board and will see the same thing on occasion. Swiftech has a pretty good reputation, so doubt that he BS'ing me. I'm still on the original bios that came with the board and wonder if I should update to the latest. And then just keep an eye on this.

For whatever reason I've never been able to control the CPU PWM fans in bios or the AI suite. I've been able to with the assistant fans in AI suite.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgentSquirrel*
> 
> I thought that might be the case with fans still running and the pump failing, I called swiftech and spoke with a tech (real easy by the way) . He advised that if it was a pump failure that my temps should start to skyrocket, which I'm seeing nothing of the sort. he also told me that he as a Asus board and will see the same thing on occasion. Swiftech has a pretty good reputation, so doubt that he BS'ing me. I'm still on the original bios that came with the board and wonder if I should update to the latest. And then just keep an eye on this.
> 
> For whatever reason I've never been able to control the CPU PWM fans in bios or the AI suite. I've been able to with the assistant fans in AI suite.


Yeah the Swiftech rep is right...if your temps are still good, then the pump is likely OK then. Updating the BIOS might be worth a shot in case they happened to address anything of the sort.


----------



## AgentSquirrel

Thanks, appreciate the help.


----------



## Fester1

I have two 4 GB Corsair Vengeance to install on this motherboard.

I'm just curious, why does the manual recommend DIMM A-2 and B-2 instead of A-1 and B-1?


----------



## JayKthnx

I believe those dimms are polled by the cpu first due to intel design. when they were laying out the pcb design, they probably numbered left to right, hence a1-b1 were numerically first even though they're secondary slots.


----------



## Fester1

Got it, thanks.

I can't figure out which pins I'm supposed to use for the two power led cords, the reset, and the power cords.
The manual confuses me.

Actually, I know where to plug in the powersw, but which way does it go?

Also, I found the USB 2.0 connectors, but I have no idea which one to use. I've got a Fractal R4 case and these are for the two USB 2.0 ports in the front of the case.


----------



## JayKthnx

Look on the connector for the power led and activity led. One side should have an arrow on it. That side is positive. The switches aren't polarized though. You can install them either way. I only make them match because of ocd. Lol

USB 2.0 header connectors are all the same so pick the one you prefer


----------



## Fester1

OK, so I got everything installed, plugged the system in, and nothing happened, lol. Of freaking course.

There was a solid green light that came on on the motherboard, called SP_PWR. Other than that, there is no activity. I verified that the power was set to on on the back of the PSU. I really don't know what to do now.

EDIT: I figured out the problem. I had the power and reset two pin connectors plugged in vertically and not horizontally. As soon as I fixed that, all the Noctua fans came on and I screamed, lol. Those Noctua fans are legit quiet.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> OK, so I got everything installed, plugged the system in, and nothing happened, lol. Of freaking course.
> 
> There was a solid green light that came on on the motherboard, called SP_PWR. Other than that, there is no activity. I verified that the power was set to on on the back of the PSU. I really don't know what to do now.
> 
> EDIT: I figured out the problem. I had the power and reset two pin connectors plugged in vertically and not horizontally. As soon as I fixed that, all the Noctua fans came on and I screamed, lol. Those Noctua fans are legit quiet.


LOL! Nice to see you got your rig going, though!


----------



## Dysheeki

Morning chaps..

My friend has this Mobo but had lost his disc. I've tried telling him he can just download all the individual drivers and/or software from the Manufacturers website but he is after a disc. Is there anywhere you guys know of, or would any of you be knid enough to create an iso image of your disc for him?

thanks in aadvance.


----------



## Midnite8

delete


----------



## JayKthnx

Every chip is unique. Just because I can run my 3770k at 4.5 with 1.25v doesn't mean everyone can. Just plugging in numbers without finding your best stable overclock with your hardware is an easy way to corrupt your is, damage hardware, etc.

Here's a really good guide on how to overclock ivy bridge on Asus boards.


----------



## vitelli

Reply to http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/6600#post_21676373
I had similar issues, the thermistor located bottom right on mobo was reading -1 deg C lol, also had voltages (across the range) going to zero at random times. Also had a noisy 40mm CPU_ASSIST fan so I sent it all back last week, watch this space (I'm in Aust.).


----------



## Anoxy

Is 3-way SLI a viable option on this board?


----------



## JayKthnx

Not really afaik. The third pcie lane will run at x4 and the slot spacing is off iirc. If you want higher than x2 ski/xfire, you're better off running dual gpu cards for x4 sli/xfire.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> Not really afaik. The third pcie lane will run at x4 and the slot spacing is off iirc. If you want higher than x2 ski/xfire, you're better off running dual gpu cards for x4 sli/xfire.


Yup agreed. Plus the bottom PCIe slot is only 2.0...so the 4x bandwidth really hurts.


----------



## Anoxy

Darn. Was thinking I'd just grab another 780 since I already have two under water.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitelli*
> 
> Reply to http://www.overclock.net/t/1246595/official-asus-sabertooth-z77-owners-thread-club/6600#post_21676373
> I had similar issues, the thermistor located bottom right on mobo was reading -1 deg C lol, also had voltages (across the range) going to zero at random times. Also had a noisy 40mm CPU_ASSIST fan so I sent it all back last week, watch this space (I'm in Aust.).


Ya I'm contemplating doing the same thing here. Plus I want to upgrade to the Max V Extreme anyway. I may put that on order and then send this one back. Haven't decided yet.

Oh ... and on the above posts, the most you can do on these boards is Quad SLI. i.e. 2 x 690's for instance.


----------



## pfinch

Hey guys,

i got a problem with windows 8(.1) Fast Boot and my Sabertooth z77 (csm en/disabled, Fast Boot enabled).

The Fast Boot doesnt work correctly for me. Nearly every time (85%) after a shutdown i got the message (evtvwr):
ID29 0xC00000D4 and a critical Kernel ID49.

I think it's a bug with that mainboard ...

Thanks for your reply


----------



## Anoxy

Been considering some Dominator Platinum ram, mostly for aesthetics. Stupid question, does this board have a max compatible memory frequency? I was looking at the 1866 MHz version, but would 2400 MHz work, and would I benefit at all from it?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Been considering some Dominator Platinum ram, mostly for aesthetics. Stupid question, does this board have a max compatible memory frequency? I was looking at the 1866 MHz version, but would 2400 MHz work, and would I benefit at all from it?


Anything above 1600MHz is consider overclock. You CAN run memory at 2400MHz provided your CPU IMC & the memory modules can handle it.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Been considering some Dominator Platinum ram, mostly for aesthetics. Stupid question, does this board have a max compatible memory frequency? I was looking at the 1866 MHz version, but would 2400 MHz work, and would I benefit at all from it?


2400 MHz should work no problem - the 3570K has a strong IMC and does well with high-speed RAM. For me, I've got some Trident X that runs 2400 MHz, and I've had no issues whatsoever.









That said, 2400 MHz won't bring you huge gains in performance. I do recall reading some reviews that showed BF4 and ARMA II getting substantial gains from 2400 MHz RAM, but that's just a few games. For the most part, 1600/1866 MHz modules should serve you well. I'd say if you can find a 2400 MHz kit for cheap, then go for it. Otherwise, just snag a good 1600 or 1866 kit.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Been considering some Dominator Platinum ram, mostly for aesthetics. Stupid question, does this board have a max compatible memory frequency? I was looking at the 1866 MHz version, but would 2400 MHz work, and would I benefit at all from it?


I would shop latency first and for most personally. Then use the XMP profile to overclock the RAM or if you OC you can set the speed to whatever the memory is rated at.


----------



## Anoxy

Thanks guys, +rep.

The 16GB 1866 MHz kit is $215 on Amazon, whereas the 16GB 2400 MHz kit is $280

I suppose if I have the money, the 2400 kit would be worth it.


----------



## Dissolution187

Looks like I have to RMA my Sabertooth z77..... I am not happy. One day I woke up and put on my headphones and there was no sound.... Confused I tried reinstalling the drivers etc and nothing worked. I tried putting my sound card in every pci slot and there was nothing. I RMA'd the sound card thinking that was the issue. WRONG. I got a new sound card today in the mail and Windows still does not detect it. Unfortunately I think my mobo is jacked. I hope Asus is cool and does not give me a hard time. I have only had the board for about a year.


----------



## Anoxy

Did you try the sound card in another motherboard? Or any other devices in your PCI slots?


----------



## tdrloux

Guys i am looking to optimize my boot time (go direct to windows load)
My motherboard waste something like 8s to start windows load (i am using windows 7), what options should i change in bios to perform a faster post?


----------



## saipan

put the os on a ssd


----------



## jdstock76

My Sabertooth. And ..... my terrible cable management.


----------



## saipan

looks good man.....


----------



## azture

Hello I have a small problem with the Assist fans on my mobo. Basically, the assist fans only turn on when the computer is off (for that extra cool down feature thing) but when the computer is on they are off. I've tried using the thermal radar in ai suite but they still won't turn on.

After a bit of messing around I went into the bios to find the the bios fan profile is set to "fan off", even when I change this they don't start, then when I go back into the bio to /see why a few resets later, the fan profile has reset back to how it was. I'm not quite sure why this started happening.

Any ideas?


----------



## Detoyminador

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> 
> My Sabertooth. And ..... my terrible cable management.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> 
> My Sabertooth. And ..... my terrible cable management.


If that's the HAF-X case you'd be amazed how many cables to can fit behind the side panel. Check my pics out, I have a whole heap hidden in the side panel.


----------



## uglykidmoe

cable management in my air 540


----------



## replica9000

So a while back I upgraded my RAM from 2x4gb sticks of 1333mhz 8-8-8-24-2 to 4x8gb sticks of 1600mhz 9-9-9-24-2. I was having stability problems after, Adjusting voltages were not helping. Decided to load optimized defaults and tested everything at stock settings. New RAM was detected at advertized specs. Prime ran for 16 hours no problem, stopped the test myself. Decided to see what settings the automatic overclock would come up with.. The second time I loaded optimized defaults, my RAM is detected as 1333mhz 10-10-10-30-2, and seems to be staying that way. I can manually adjust the settings, but I don't see why the RAM isn't auto detected properly anymore.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Detoyminador*
> 
> If that's the HAF-X case you'd be amazed how many cables to can fit behind the side panel. Check my pics out, I have a whole heap hidden in the side panel.


THOR V2. Case is huge. I just got lazy that's all. After I got everything running and installed I told myself I'd go back and clean it up and never did. LoL..

But .... I am planning a revamp using a different case. That one will be much better.


----------



## Anoxy

So just got some Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866 ram, and it seems to be giving me troubles....BSODs. Can anyone with this ram recommend me compatible BIOS settings?

I've seen quite a few people with this memory+mobo combo, so I feel like there shouldn't be any inherent compatibility issues.


----------



## invincible20xx

somebody here running 2400 mhz 8 gb dimms ?


----------



## KattzPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So just got some Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866 ram, and it seems to be giving me troubles....BSODs. Can anyone with this ram recommend me compatible BIOS settings?
> 
> I've seen quite a few people with this memory+mobo combo, so I feel like there shouldn't be any inherent compatibility issues.


I use CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) 1866 (CMD16GX3M2A1866C9) and to get it to read properly in the BIOS I enable X.M.P. under the Ai Overclocking Tuner section. (Otherwise it get's read as 1600). Never had any BSOD issues with it, love the memory so far.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> somebody here running 2400 mhz 8 gb dimms ?


Yup, I have 2400 MHz Trident X (2x 8GB). No problems with it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KattzPC*
> 
> I use CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) 1866 (CMD16GX3M2A1866C9) and to get it to read properly in the BIOS I enable X.M.P. under the Ai Overclocking Tuner section. (Otherwise it get's read as 1600). Never had any BSOD issues with it, love the memory so far.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah that's what I set mine at as well. After a bit of research it turns out my BSODs were because my CPU vcore was too low...so it wasn't my ram after all! yay

I also changed the timings on mine to 9-9-9-24


----------



## invincible20xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Yup, I have 2400 MHz Trident X (2x 8GB). No problems with it.


idk mine just don't like running @ 2400 it's just unstable i've tried everything including exchanging the mobo because i didn't like my past mobo had hopes it would work on the sabbertooth it could be the cpu memory controller topping out @ 2133 , right ?!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invincible20xx*
> 
> idk mine just don't like running @ 2400 it's just unstable i've tried everything including exchanging the mobo because i didn't like my past mobo had hopes it would work on the sabbertooth it could be the cpu memory controller topping out @ 2133 , right ?!


Yeah it could be issues with the RAM controller on the CPU, but it's unlikely. The 3770K and 3570K have really good IMCs and typically run 2400 MHz without much trouble. If you want to push the IMC more, you can bump up the VCCSA voltage in the BIOS. It defaults to 0.925 V - maybe give it a small bump to 1.005 V, for example. What ever you do though, keep the VCCSA voltage below 1.200 V, it's very hard on the CPU when you run this voltage too high.

Also, you mention trying a new motherboard, but have you talked to Kingston about an RMA on the RAM kit? Before you try too many things, I'd make sure you have a properly working kit.


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Yeah it could be issues with the RAM controller on the CPU, but it's unlikely. The 3770K and 3570K have really good IMCs and typically run 2400 MHz without much trouble. If you want to push the IMC more, you can bump up the VCCSA voltage in the BIOS. It defaults to 0.925 V - maybe give it a small bump to 1.005 V, for example. What ever you do though, keep the VCCSA voltage below 1.200 V, it's very hard on the CPU when you run this voltage too high.
> 
> Also, you mention trying a new motherboard, but have you talked to Kingston about an RMA on the RAM kit? Before you try too many things, I'd make sure you have a properly working kit.


Does a 3770k overclock better than a 2600k with more/faster RAM?

I used to have my 2600k @ 4.5GHz with 4x2gb of 1333MHz RAM. Now with 4x8gb of 1600MHz RAM, I had to drop back to 4.3GHz to be stable and keep temps in check.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> Does a 3770k overclock better than a 2600k with more/faster RAM?
> 
> I used to have my 2600k @ 4.5GHz with 4x2gb of 1333MHz RAM. Now with 4x8gb of 1600MHz RAM, I had to drop back to 4.3GHz to be stable and keep temps in check.


I don't have any personal experience overclocking with 4 DIMMs on Sandy Bridge (I only ran 2 DIMMs on my 2500K) so I can't say fore sure if you'll have better luck on Ivy Bridge. That said, IB has a stronger RAM controller than SB it _could_ work better in theory. I've got a 2x 8GB TridentX kit in now, but before that I had a 4x 4GB Ripjaws Z kit at 1866 MHz - neither kit affected my overclock at all. I was able to run a solid 4.5 GHz with either config.


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> I don't have any personal experience overclocking with 4 DIMMs on Sandy Bridge (I only ran 2 DIMMs on my 2500K) so I can't say fore sure if you'll have better luck on Ivy Bridge. That said, IB has a stronger RAM controller than SB it _could_ work better in theory. I've got a 2x 8GB TridentX kit in now, but before that I had a 4x 4GB Ripjaws Z kit at 1866 MHz - neither kit affected my overclock at all. I was able to run a solid 4.5 GHz with either config.


On the old RAM, i had 4.5 with nothing more than a +0.035 offset voltage. With the new RAM, I was crashing under load. Seems like I have to go much higher to get 4.5GHz back, which is more than my cooler wants to handle. I did test the RAM at stock everything to make sure it was good.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *replica9000*
> 
> On the old RAM, i had 4.5 with nothing more than a +0.035 offset voltage. With the new RAM, I was crashing under load. Seems like I have to go much higher to get 4.5GHz back, which is more than my cooler wants to handle. I did test the RAM at stock everything to make sure it was good.


Wow, yeah that sucks.







Have you ever tried running just 2x 8GB instead (just temporarily to test)?


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Wow, yeah that sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you ever tried running just 2x 8GB instead (just temporarily to test)?


I did. It did seem more stable with only 2 sticks. I know 4 sticks in harder on the IMC, but I had 4 sticks before with no issue. :notsure:


----------



## desert punk

Here's my z77 pc build,Please add me


----------



## Anoxy

Board is still going strong. Waiting til the next generation (haswell refresh maybe) to make any upgrades.


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desert punk*
> 
> Here's my z77 pc build,Please add me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great build, thanks for sharing!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Board is still going strong. Waiting til the next generation (haswell refresh maybe) to make any upgrades.










Impressive build! Nice work!









FWIW, I'm in the same boat...nothing out there yet to pull me away from IB. Nice to see your rig still going strong.


----------



## majnu

Quick question.

Where is the VCCIO aka QPI/VTT in the BIOS settings please.

I'm attempting to oc my RAM and I need to change this setting as it helps with high memory overclocks as I have 16Gb Samsung Green RAM.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Quick question.
> 
> Where is the VCCIO aka QPI/VTT in the BIOS settings please.
> 
> I'm attempting to oc my RAM and I need to change this setting as it helps with high memory overclocks as I have 16Gb Samsung Green RAM.


I believe that sabertooth z77 doesn't have manual voltage control for VCCIO.


----------



## Nextgeo

Hi,
I have a problem with my sabertooth, the Assist Fan (Fans 30mm) are very noisy and I make this question..
Anyone have changed the assist fan with other with lower sounds??
For me are very noisy and changing the options in BIOS I cant reduce the sound =(

And other question.. I have 4,4Ghz with Offset -0.020 its good? I passed the PRIME and Lynx without errors But I saw that people have Offset + (positive) and the Ghz are more or less the same

its a good voltage?

Thanks!!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nextgeo*
> 
> Hi,
> I have a problem with my sabertooth, the Assist Fan (Fans 30mm) are very noisy and I make this question..
> Anyone have changed the assist fan with other with lower sounds??
> For me are very noisy and changing the options in BIOS I cant reduce the sound =(
> 
> And other question.. I have 4,4Ghz with Offset -0.020 its good? I passed the PRIME and Lynx without errors But I saw that people have Offset + (positive) and the Ghz are more or less the same
> 
> its a good voltage?
> 
> Thanks!!


It's possible to fit the 40mm Noctua in the spot near the rear I/O ports. I've see a few users do this with no problems fitting (linky). No experience with this personally, but I thought I'd pass that on. However, this doesn't work for the other assist fan near the PCIe slots since that will only accept 35mm fans.

Regarding your offset, it's not unusual to have a negative offset. My 3770K is like this with 4.4 GHz as well. But at 4.5 GHz, I need a slight positive offset. It's going to be different with every chip, but as long as you're stable then it's not a problem. Something to watch for, however, is if you have a very large negative offset this will result in a very low idle voltage which can lead to some stability issues. I don't think a -0.020 V offset will cause any issues, but it's just something to keep in mind as your tweaking your OC.


----------



## Nextgeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> It's possible to fit the 40mm Noctua in the spot near the rear I/O ports. I've see a few users do this with no problems fitting (linky). No experience with this personally, but I thought I'd pass that on. However, this doesn't work for the other assist fan near the PCIe slots since that will only accept 35mm fans.
> 
> Regarding your offset, it's not unusual to have a negative offset. My 3770K is like this with 4.4 GHz as well. But at 4.5 GHz, I need a slight positive offset. It's going to be different with every chip, but as long as you're stable then it's not a problem. Something to watch for, however, is if you have a very large negative offset this will result in a very low idle voltage which can lead to some stability issues. I don't think a -0.020 V offset will cause any issues, but it's just something to keep in mind as your tweaking your OC.


Hi,
Thanks for the fast reply I will try the noctua in the rear and In the PCI zone I keep the sabertooth fan.
In the overclock im happy to heard this...Im scared because I thought that this voltage are to low for the Overclock but you say me that is good =D

Finally I have other question.. In my overclock I have the Turbo Disabled or so I think... Because I put the Turbo Off then I put the Multiplier To 44 and quickly the Turbo puts Enabled automatically and I cant put it on Disabled because the option is Off

How I can be sure that the turbo is removed???

Thanks for the reply

(Sorry for my bad English)


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nextgeo*
> 
> Hi,
> Thanks for the fast reply I will try the noctua in the rear and In the PCI zone I keep the sabertooth fan.
> In the overclock im happy to heard this...Im scared because I thought that this voltage are to low for the Overclock but you say me that is good =D
> 
> Finally I have other question.. In my overclock I have the Turbo Disabled or so I think... Because I put the Turbo Off then I put the Multiplier To 44 and quickly the Turbo puts Enabled automatically and I cant put it on Disabled because the option is Off
> 
> How I can be sure that the turbo is removed???
> 
> Thanks for the reply
> 
> (Sorry for my bad English)


Glad to help!









Regarding the Turbo, this is how it is supposed to work. Basically, the way Ivy Bridge works with overclocking is that the turbo multiplier is increased. If the CPU is running stock, the turbo might go to, for example, 36x, 37x, etc... However, with overclocking, the Turbo is forced to go to the multiplier you enter (such as 43x, 44x, 45x, etc...). So for overclocking to work properly, turbo must be enabled. I hope that makes sense.


----------



## JySzE

Does anyone know how to check your cpu voltage with a DMM with this mobo??


----------



## Nextgeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Glad to help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the Turbo, this is how it is supposed to work. Basically, the way Ivy Bridge works with overclocking is that the turbo multiplier is increased. If the CPU is running stock, the turbo might go to, for example, 36x, 37x, etc... However, with overclocking, the Turbo is forced to go to the multiplier you enter (such as 43x, 44x, 45x, etc...). So for overclocking to work properly, turbo must be enabled. I hope that makes sense.


Thanks other time for the fast reply !!

Ok now I understand that the Overclocking is based in the Turbo technology, I thought so at first... Well I continue try and Investigate the world of overclocking..

You think that if I Update the BIOS to the last version... The OC could change??? For example... Now I have 4,4Ghz with Offset -0.030 and If I update the BIOS could need More Voltage???

Thanksss!!


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nextgeo*
> 
> Thanks other time for the fast reply !!
> 
> Ok now I understand that the Overclocking is based in the Turbo technology, I thought so at first... Well I continue try and Investigate the world of overclocking..
> 
> You think that if I Update the BIOS to the last version... The OC could change??? For example... Now I have 4,4Ghz with Offset -0.030 and If I update the BIOS could need More Voltage???
> 
> Thanksss!!


No problem!









In my experience with this motherboard, I haven't seen any substantial changes in overclocks between BIOS upgrades. IIRC, the 1504 BIOS gave a good boost in RAM overclocking for me, but otherwise it's been quite uneventful between BIOS updates.


----------



## Nextgeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> No problem!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience with this motherboard, I haven't seen any substantial changes in overclocks between BIOS upgrades. IIRC, the 1504 BIOS gave a good boost in RAM overclocking for me, but otherwise it's been quite uneventful between BIOS updates.


Ok thanks for the reply.. If I have time i update the Bios Because there are new Versions and I have the 1708 xD

in the last two days my computer are doing things stranges... Actually I have 4,4Ghz with Offset - 0.030 I try to gave a plus of voltage because when I am passing the Linx Bench the voltage droops much
I try to put the voltage in offset - 0.025 and the computer dont Run good ..I turn on the computer the screen its a very low brightness the logo of BIOS appears and then.. Screen off and Windows dont Load.... I reset the PC enter in BIOS with very low brightness in the screen I put the voltage in 0.030 like before save changes restart... And the Computer run good... Its strange no???
The voltage cant ending in number 5?

Thanks!!!


----------



## JySzE

Anyone else having issues with CPU-Z Ver.1.69.0 x64 Displaying a bus speed of 99.98? every other program shows 100.00 which is making a bit curious and concerned.


----------



## invincible20xx

can't boot in UEFI mood it says current bios settings doesn't support boot device or something like that, my GPUs are UEFI Enabled from sapphire !


----------



## Nextgeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JySzE*
> 
> Anyone else having issues with CPU-Z Ver.1.69.0 x64 Displaying a bus speed of 99.98? every other program shows 100.00 which is making a bit curious and concerned.


I have this problem... When I OC the CPU I have the same problem 99,98 in the bus speed... Its strange because when I set BIOS with Default Valors the CPUZ shows 100,3 in Bus Speed


----------



## JySzE

Download cpu-z 1.66.1 x64 it solved my problem. Core temp and real temp and hwinfo and ai suite all said 100.00 but cpu z is the only one that was wrong until i rolled back to 1.66.1 thats when it was perfect.


----------



## Nextgeo

Well I need your help... I dont know what happend with my Computer...Since 3 days ago I have this specs

i5 3570k @ 4,4Ghz Offset - 0.030
Sabertooth Z77
16GB Corsair Vengeance PRO 1866
SSD 840 PRO
Barracuda 1TB 7200.14
Corsair TX 650 v2

Well I want to up the voltage a few points and I put the voltage in Offset -0.025.
Since this the computer are doing strange things... He dont turn on well and when I restart 10 times or I shutdown the computer for a 15 minutes He turn on well..
But If I restart other time the problem appears again..I saw that the BOOT DEVICE LED is red and its still on all the time.. But the computer dont do any beep of error only this Led in RED
I do a CLEAR CMOS and the problem persist randomly...I put the default valors on BIOS and the problem persists randomly...
I dont know what to do...
Now I clear CMOS and I put the default valors on BIOS and I Format the computer and I installed Windows 8.1 Update 1 and the computer apparently turn on and restart well.. BUt Im scared because I dont know what is the problem... I only want have a computer With the OC... The computer worked good with OC since I bought it in May of 2013 =(

Any suggestions?

Thanks all


----------



## JySzE

What kind of error are you getting? Im a little confused. Give me the symptoms and details on how the computer is acting weird. As for the RED LED i have no idea which LED and where on the mobo. Depending on which LED your talking about untill i know which your talking about i cannot help. A pic of your bios settings and the LED your talking about would help. Also check your event viewer for whea 19 errors. If you have any that means to little or to much voltage. 99% of the time its to little voltage


----------



## Nextgeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JySzE*
> 
> What kind of error are you getting? Im a little confused. Give me the symptoms and details on how the computer is acting weird. As for the RED LED i have no idea which LED and where on the mobo. Depending on which LED your talking about untill i know which your talking about i cannot help. A pic of your bios settings and the LED your talking about would help. Also check your event viewer for whea 19 errors. If you have any that means to little or to much voltage. 99% of the time its to little voltage


My BIOS Settings are Default
The Boot Led are down the Dimms of RAM I turn on the computer it shows the logo of TUF of BIOS but then the Windows dont load I saw that the Hard disk has activity but the BOOT LEED in the MB still Red and On.
I formatted the computer and the computer turn on good... But I need to do more testing testing because now the computer are clean with default settings in BIOS with default settings in windows I need to do The OC, install Drivers, and all of my programs... If I have the same problem I will write again with the Errors if my computer shows errors... Because They dont gave me any Beep Sound or any image message in the POST of BIOS because He dont show me the POST.


----------



## RickRockerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nextgeo*
> 
> My BIOS Settings are Default
> The Boot Led are down the Dimms of RAM I turn on the computer it shows the logo of TUF of BIOS but then the Windows dont load I saw that the Hard disk has activity but the BOOT LEED in the MB still Red and On.
> I formatted the computer and the computer turn on good... But I need to do more testing testing because now the computer are clean with default settings in BIOS with default settings in windows I need to do The OC, install Drivers, and all of my programs... If I have the same problem I will write again with the Errors if my computer shows errors... Because They dont gave me any Beep Sound or any image message in the POST of BIOS because He dont show me the POST.


Didn't read the whole conversation but if you don't get post and the led near rams stays red it's probably ram error. I got problems like that while ago. my problem was cpu's ram control circuit. Try booting with 1 stick of ram on.


----------



## JySzE

It sounds like a bad ram OC to me. Or bad ram modules themselves. I agree with rick, try one ram module and try booting into windows if it works turn off the computer and move the module to the next DIMM slot and so on, make sure its not the slot themselves. If all is well then put all of the modules back in and run memtest and let it run for a atleast 12 hours i usually do 24 but thats overkill.


----------



## Nextgeo

Thanks for the replies, the LED no is THE RAM LED is the BOOT DEVICE LED, I Managed a speaker and now I can heard the beeps.
When I turn On the Computer there are one short Beep and turn on Ok... When Turn on with problem the sound its like this (One larger Beep and 4 short beeps)
I update the BIOS to the last version.
Now The Post shows a problem with a CPU Fan Because I have a controller and The FANS connected to the controller..(I have this problems always when I clear CMOS but I set in BIOS settings in Monitor Ignore)
Well Now the situation is different I enter in BIOS I ignore the monitor of CPU Fans
I do the OC that I have... and I configure other options.
Restart and Now I stay in Windows... Im going to install drivers and Software... I post here when I finished... and hopefully get lucky...

Thanks other time


----------



## RedWabbit

this board is supposed to support 3 way sli anybody know why I cant get it to work? it recognizes the 3rd card but it will only sli the first 2 and use the 3rd for physx. rig is in the sig


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedWabbit*
> 
> this board is supposed to support 3 way sli anybody know why I cant get it to work? it recognizes the 3rd card but it will only sli the first 2 and use the 3rd for physx. rig is in the sig


No 3-way SLI support on this board. The bottom (black) PCIe slot is physically 16x, but it's only a PCIe 2.0 x4 slot so it's not ideal for a GPU. :/


----------



## JayKthnx

The board does support 4-way sli as well, though only via two dual GPU cards I.e. gtx 690


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedWabbit*
> 
> this board is supposed to support 3 way sli anybody know why I cant get it to work? it recognizes the 3rd card but it will only sli the first 2 and use the 3rd for physx. rig is in the sig


Hello.
This board supports 3 way AMD Crossfire since AMD cards require 4x bandwidth from PCIe x16 slots to do crossfire while Nvidia cards require 8x for SLI. If you want more cards you either need to buy a different motherboard (like ROG Rampage) or with sabertooth z77, the only way to do 4 way SLI on this board is by buying two video cards with two gpu in one card (ex. Asus ROG Mars 760, GTX 590, GTX 690)


----------



## ACHILEE5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayKthnx*
> 
> The board does support 4-way sli as well, though only via two dual GPU cards I.e. gtx 690


I did wonder about this


----------



## Minei

Hi all,

*can you please recommend me memory (RAM) for the ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77?*
@ 1600MHz, but better would be 1866, 2000, 2133 or @ 2400MHz RAM.

Should not be too expensive and please only 100% compatible RAM. My old memory Corsair CML16GX3M2A1600C10 is incompatible or faulty, I have many BlueScreens with this (DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL / PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA ).

Thank you.


----------



## navit

This is what I run in mine and I have never had any problems http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148518

The bad news is Ram is costing more every day, sorry.


----------



## Minei

Thanks for the answer navit, unfortunately too expensive for me. And I forgot to mention that I need 16GB.
Any other suggestions?


----------



## jjkusaf

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148545
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148663
or two of these
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=8033818

Also, if money is an issue it would be helpful to know the limit. If you're looking to spend less than 100 than you would need to lower your "need" to around 8GB.


----------



## Minei

Thanks for the answer jjkusaf, price limit is around $ 160 for 1600MHz RAM. For 2400MHz can I pay around $ 250.
I give the Crucial RAM a try.


----------



## Clazman55

I'm currently using a SSD+Raid 0 and whenever a new HDD is connected internally to the Sata ports, the PC will not turn on. In addition, if the PC is already on and sitting at the desktop, connecting and powering a new HDD also causes the PC to shut off.

It tries to restart but, only has power for about 1/2 second before it turns off again.

I've double checked all the relevant settings in the bios and didn't find anything wrong.

SSD: Samsung 830, Raid 0: WD 1TB blacks, New HDD, WD 2TB red.

I have absolutely no clue what the problem is. I've got more than enough power from my PSU.

Has anyone had a similar issue?


----------



## CODELESS

Have you tried different SATA cables ?


----------



## GoodViH

Guys, I need your help! For about 2 years my system worked well, but recently the problem emerged.

Here is my specs:
Z77 Sabertooth
i7-3770k
4gb x2 RAM Crucial
x2 GTX 670
128GB SSD OCZ Vertex 4
2.5Tb HDD

So, here is the issue: it has perfectly worked with 4gb RAM x2(8gb overall) until now, but something happens and computer after reaching about 3-4gb RAM load, starts freezing and lagging. It affects only apps I want to boot, meanwhile all apps which are in RAM work well! I tried switching the sticks - didn't work, bought one 8gb stick - didn't work. System only works after removing one 4gb stick, so, with 4gb overall. However, it is obviouslly too little for me, do you have any suggestions?


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodViH*
> 
> Guys, I need your help! For about 2 years my system worked well, but recently the problem emerged.
> 
> Here is my specs:
> Z77 Sabertooth
> i7-3770k
> 4gb x2 RAM Crucial
> x2 GTX 670
> 128GB SSD OCZ Vertex 4
> 2.5Tb HDD
> 
> So, here is the issue: it has perfectly worked with 4gb RAM x2(8gb overall) until now, but something happens and computer after reaching about 3-4gb RAM load, starts freezing and lagging. It affects only apps I want to boot, meanwhile all apps which are in RAM work well! I tried switching the sticks - didn't work, bought one 8gb stick - didn't work. System only works after removing one 4gb stick, so, with 4gb overall. However, it is obviouslly too little for me, do you have any suggestions?


What i would do is:

1. Run Memtest 86+ overnight.
If no errors then you know your sticks are good and your dimm slots are fine.

But if you find errors take all the sticks out but one and test each stick in every slot to determine which stick and which slot is good or bad.

2. Reinstall Windows.

If problem still persists them it could be your processor's IMC but if thats so it would show up in Memtest86+


----------



## GoodViH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JySzE*
> 
> What i would do is:
> 
> 1. Run Memtest 86+ overnight.
> If no errors then you know your sticks are good and your dimm slots are fine.
> 
> But if you find errors take all the sticks out but one and test each stick in every slot to determine which stick and which slot is good or bad.
> 
> 2. Reinstall Windows.
> 
> If problem still persists them it could be your processor's IMC but if thats so it would show up in Memtest86+


I ran Memtest and it showed nothing... Maybe some issue with motherboard?


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodViH*
> 
> I ran Memtest and it showed nothing... Maybe some issue with motherboard?


How many passes? and Memtest+ or Memtest86+?

Needs to be Memtest86+.

1 Pass is not enough, 10-12 is suffice.

But if you did run that many passes and no errors then i doubt its a hardware issue, and is a problem with your windows installation.


----------



## GoodViH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JySzE*
> 
> How many passes? and Memtest+ or Memtest86+?
> 
> Needs to be Memtest86+.
> 
> 1 Pass is not enough, 10-12 is suffice.
> 
> But if you did run that many passes and no errors then i doubt its a hardware issue, and is a problem with your windows installation.


So, I set the Memtest86+ 5.01 overnight and it successfully passed all 10 tests without any errors. I suppose there is a hardware problem in the motherboard, right? cos what can be wrong with my windows?


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoodViH*
> 
> So, I set the Memtest86+ 5.01 overnight and it successfully passed all 10 tests without any errors. I suppose there is a hardware problem in the motherboard, right? cos what can be wrong with my windows?


If it passed without error... then why would you think its a hardware problem.

If it worked on linux without error then its obviously windows or a CPU OC that is effecting your ram..

Also windows corrupts easily. It can happen everyone has been through it before, and if they haven't its going to eventually.


----------



## Jasebrooks

Quick question, how do you disable the usb ports so they don't work when the computer is powered down.

Thanks.


----------



## Jasebrooks

*I went ahead and took it to BestBuy, they said my computer was almost 3 years old and I should buy a new one. LOL.*


----------



## Trolle BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> *I went ahead and took it to BestBuy, they said my computer was almost 3 years old and I should buy a new one. LOL.*


what is it and where did you get in?


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trolle BE*
> 
> what is it and where did you get in?


Yo, thats nice, where did you get this? i want to get one to, send us the link please!


----------



## Jasebrooks

*http://www.goverlay.com/content/lcdsysinfo/

I think it was like $34 dollars.*

The forum for this device is here:
http://www.goverlay.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17

It comes with this cable:



I wanted to mount it inside my case because it has a large window on the side.
I took off the device frame and glued a strong magnet to the plastic back so it would stay secure to the case frame.
But I bought this cable to go straight to the motherboard:


*
IMPORTANT: There are TWO LCDSysInfo devices, one is the basic "LCDSysInfo" which is NOT compatible with GOverlay, the other one is "LCDSysInfo for GOverlay" which works with GOverlay*

It supports Windows 7 and 8. There is a step by step guide here for installing the driver:
http://www.goverlay.com/content/faq/


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> 
> 
> *http://www.goverlay.com/content/lcdsysinfo/
> 
> I think it was like $34 dollars.*
> 
> The forum for this device is here:
> http://www.goverlay.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17
> 
> It comes with this cable:
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to mount it inside my case because it has a large window on the side.
> I took off the device frame and glued a strong magnet to the plastic back so it would stay secure to the case frame.
> But I bought this cable to go straight to the motherboard:
> 
> 
> *
> IMPORTANT: There are TWO LCDSysInfo devices, one is the basic "LCDSysInfo" which is NOT compatible with GOverlay, the other one is "LCDSysInfo for GOverlay" which works with GOverlay*
> 
> It supports Windows 7 and 8. There is a step by step guide here for installing the driver:
> http://www.goverlay.com/content/faq/


That is seriously awesome.


----------



## Jasebrooks

No worries.

The developer is really nice person. Be sure to thank him in the Goverlay forums.

Getting back to my original question, does anyone know how to disable the USB ports on the Sabertooth Z77 motherboard when the computer is powered off.

Things I've tried...
Using another port on the board. All of them stay on when the computer is powered off.
Looked in the BIOS settings. No success, but I might not be looking in the right place.
There doesn't seem to be an option on the AI suite.
I have the latest BIOS installed.
I searched the forums, but found nothing relevant to my problem.

Also, was interested if changing the Startup Screen is still an option. I remember I did it a couple of years ago with something called MYLOGO. If someone could post a link on this, it would be much appreciated,

Have great day,
JASE


----------



## JySzE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jasebrooks*
> 
> No worries.
> 
> The developer is really nice person. Be sure to thank him in the Goverlay forums.
> 
> Getting back to my original question, does anyone know how to disable the USB ports on the Sabertooth Z77 motherboard when the computer is powered off.
> 
> Things I've tried...
> Using another port on the board. All of them stay on when the computer is powered off.
> Looked in the BIOS settings. No success, but I might not be looking in the right place.
> There doesn't seem to be an option on the AI suite.
> I have the latest BIOS installed.
> I searched the forums, but found nothing relevant to my problem.
> 
> Also, was interested if changing the Startup Screen is still an option. I remember I did it a couple of years ago with something called MYLOGO. If someone could post a link on this, it would be much appreciated,
> 
> Have great day,
> JASE





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/AISuite_II_V20101_SA_Z77_XPWin7_8.zip





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



"ASUS AI Suite II V2.00.04 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
Ai Charger+ V2.00.00 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
ASUS Update V1.04.07 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
DIGI+ Power Control V1.00.37 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
*MyLogo V1.03.06 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.*
Network iControl V1.03.09 for Windows Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
System Information V1.02.15 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
Thermal Radar V1.01.24 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
TurboV EVO V1.01.43 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
USB 3.0 Boost V1.02.13 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit.
USB BIOS Flashback V1.00.06 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit.
USB Charger+ V1.00.13 for Windows XP 32bit & XP 64bit & Win7 32bit & Win7 64bit & Win8 32bit & Win8 64bit."



Here ya go.









And regards to the usb issue i have no insight on that sorry.

But mine are always on but i dont mind it.


----------



## Jasebrooks

Thank you very much.


----------



## carlsagan42

updating the bios was really easy, but it didnt enhance anything for me, im about to overclock my RAM and not looking forward to having to open the case up to move the jumper if anything goes wrong - come on asus, give us a clear cmos button on the back ;P


----------



## carlsagan42

In the users guide on chapter 2 - 14 it says below --- You do not need to clear the RTC when the system hangs due to overclocking. For system failure due to overclocking, use the C.P.R. (CPU Parameter Recall) feature. Shut down and reboot the system so the BIOS can automatically reset parameter settings to default values. ---

hmmmmmmmm


----------



## HandsomeChow

Guys, i was just wondering, are the sensors on the Sabertooth Digital or Analogue?
And how well does the Thermal Radar stack up against something like a mCubed T-Balancer?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HandsomeChow*
> 
> Guys, i was just wondering, are the sensors on the Sabertooth Digital or Analogue?
> And how well does the Thermal Radar stack up against something like a mCubed T-Balancer?


Regarding the Thermal Radar (I'm assuming you're specifically asking about the fan control as you mentioned the T-balancer?) you'd likely be better off with a separate fan control device IMO. When I used it, the Thermal Radar fan control was somewhat buggy. Originally, I had a few fans locked to the PCIe temp sensors (rather than the default CPU temp sensor) and every time I would reboot, I would have to re-bind those fans back to the PCIe sensors for some reason. I tried a bunch of different things but could never get it to work right. I ended up just uninstalling Thermal Radar and installing a 5-1/4 bay fan controller. :\


----------



## HandsomeChow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Regarding the Thermal Radar (I'm assuming you're specifically asking about the fan control as you mentioned the T-balancer?) you'd likely be better off with a separate fan control device IMO. When I used it, the Thermal Radar fan control was somewhat buggy. Originally, I had a few fans locked to the PCIe temp sensors (rather than the default CPU temp sensor) and every time I would reboot, I would have to re-bind those fans back to the PCIe sensors for some reason. I tried a bunch of different things but could never get it to work right. I ended up just uninstalling Thermal Radar and installing a 5-1/4 bay fan controller. :\


Well, i do actually own a Sabertooth Z77 but i never owned a T-Balancer. I don't have the issues you mentioned above. But i was leaning more on temperature sensor side. (Fan control is important as well)
I ask this because i am planning to build a small SFF PC for traveling usage ( I study in UK and the school computers are rubbish). I am very big on temperature monitoring and i didn't really see any Mitx boards with respectable thermal tuning capabilities and i heard the T-Balancer is the best controller out there.
So in the catagory of pure thermal monitoring and accuracy, how does the T-Balancer stack up against something like the Thermal Radar?
And are the Thermal Probes on the motherboard digital on the Z77 Sabertooth?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HandsomeChow*
> 
> Well, i do actually own a Sabertooth Z77 but i never owned a T-Balancer. I don't have the issues you mentioned above. But i was leaning more on temperature sensor side. (Fan control is important as well)
> I ask this because i am planning to build a small SFF PC for traveling usage ( I study in UK and the school computers are rubbish). I am very big on temperature monitoring and i didn't really see any Mitx boards with respectable thermal tuning capabilities and i heard the T-Balancer is the best controller out there.
> So in the catagory of pure thermal monitoring and accuracy, how does the T-Balancer stack up against something like the Thermal Radar?
> And are the Thermal Probes on the motherboard digital on the Z77 Sabertooth?


OK I see...sorry, I misunderstood what you're trying to do. Unfortunately, I've no experience with the T-Balancer so I can't comment how it compares to the Thermal Radar.


----------



## HandsomeChow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> OK I see...sorry, I misunderstood what you're trying to do. Unfortunately, I've no experience with the T-Balancer so I can't comment how it compares to the Thermal Radar.


Its cool man, i started a thread to my problem. But thanks for helping out.
About the issue you are having with the fan profiles. I personally don't have any problems like that but have you tried reinstalling the software?


----------



## JySzE

Just checked my vcore on this mobo with a DMM. Bios reading: 1.304v , cpu-z: 1.304v , dmm : 1.324v


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inacoma79*
> 
> I think that's one of the best quality cases you can buy here in the US, too. But given you're in Argentina, things like that are more difficult to come by. My wife, who's not from the US says that all the time. Post some updated pics when you're done with that bad boy.


----------



## JJohnson1988

I'm not even sure this issue is isolated to the motherboard yet, but I might as well try my luck here.

Basically, I can't install certain drivers without the system hard locking/freezing, with the disk LED staying on until I manually reboot. The drivers I've (so far) experienced these hard locks with are the latest official Creative X-Fi Fatal1ty set and the LAN set found on the official ST Z77 driver page -- "Intel LAN Driver V18.5.54.0". The install begins and then the system goes completely unresponsive moments later.

I /just/ reinstalled Windows 8.1 Update 1 x64 with an ISO from the MSDN site to see if that would fix these issues. And the answer is: nope. Still hard locking.

I saw a suggestion to disable HPET and that didn't work.

Running the latest BIOS.

Any ideas would be most appreciated.

EDIT:

So. Today I reflashed my BIOS with an earlier RAID OROM (was running a v13 something when I should just stick with v12 variants). Reset the BIOS settings (essentially removing my overclocks). And then I wiped both my RAID arrays and started from scratch (one level 0, one level 1).

Another fresh install of Win 8.1u1, and I chose not to carry over my previous settings that have been synced to my MS account.

Installed essential Windows updates.

Finally. The moment of truth.

I go to install the audio drivers from Creative's site... and...

Nope. Still the same damn hard lock/freeze requiring a manual reset.

I'm out of ideas at this point. What I don't understand is everything else works just great. The system is stable even with the overclocks. And most drivers install just fine. It's come down to the LAN and audio drivers that give me issues 100% of the time. Whyyy?


----------



## JySzE

.


----------



## Trolle BE

sometimes when typing some of my keys keep sticking,i changed the usb port a few times and it still persists.
i had the same problem with my previous keyboard.
i also have a mouse not being detected on boot sometimes,so i think its a usb issue.
i reinstalled the usb drivers etc but i still get the issue sometimes.
so is my mobo going fubar or do i need a bios update or just a format(been 2.5yrs since i last formatted)


----------



## 05_ACR_SRT4

Upgraded my gpu's and i needed the extra cooling to support it so i ditched the old cooling setup and made this custom one.
As well as added a lot of other new things
















i7 3770k @ 4.7ghz 1.28v
Asus sabertooth z77 MB
samsung 840pro 512gb SSD
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB 1866MHZ RAM
EK Terminal block dual Parallel
EK cpu block
2x EK 7990 blocks
2x sapphire HD 7990's
EVGA 1300watt psu
ascool 360mm radiator
2x silverstone 180mm fans
swiftech 120mm radiator
dead silent 120mm fan
bitspower compression swivel fittings
swiftech mcp655 pump
xspc reservoir
etc etc


----------



## francisw19

^^^ Beauty rig, nice work!


----------



## NaciremaDiputs

I'm having an odd networking problem with my rig. It's been going on for several months now, and it's making me feel quite ignorant. I'm using an Asus Sabertooth Z77 with the integrated NIC.

Every time I boot into Windows (win 7 ultimate), at first I have no internet access. When I go into the Netowork and Sharing Center, it shows I have two active network connections. One will be joined to my local homegroup and shows as a Home Network and the other is not on the local homegroup and shows as a Public Network that I never setup. The two connections are both using the same integrated NIC and are clearly causing a conflict that windows cannot resolve.

For months I've been ignoring the problem and just disabling and reenabling the NIC device to fix the problem. Today I thought I'd finally get around to asking a question to see if anyone has any ideas what could be causing this and what I might be able to do to fix it properly.

Any ideas?


----------



## francisw19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaciremaDiputs*
> 
> I'm having an odd networking problem with my rig. It's been going on for several months now, and it's making me feel quite ignorant. I'm using an Asus Sabertooth Z77 with the integrated NIC.
> 
> Every time I boot into Windows (win 7 ultimate), at first I have no internet access. When I go into the Netowork and Sharing Center, it shows I have two active network connections. One will be joined to my local homegroup and shows as a Home Network and the other is not on the local homegroup and shows as a Public Network that I never setup. The two connections are both using the same integrated NIC and are clearly causing a conflict that windows cannot resolve.
> 
> For months I've been ignoring the problem and just disabling and reenabling the NIC device to fix the problem. Today I thought I'd finally get around to asking a question to see if anyone has any ideas what could be causing this and what I might be able to do to fix it properly.
> 
> Any ideas?


Do you have Virtual Box or VMware Workstation/Player installed? If so, that could explain the second (Public) connection you're seeing. At least with Virtual Box, I've noticed it does that on my machine. However, I've never run into any issues with connectivity or conflicts over the port.


----------



## NaciremaDiputs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *francisw19*
> 
> Do you have Virtual Box or VMware Workstation/Player installed? If so, that could explain the second (Public) connection you're seeing. At least with Virtual Box, I've noticed it does that on my machine. However, I've never run into any issues with connectivity or conflicts over the port.


Nope. I've never installed any virtualization software or utilities on this rig. It's just a gaming rig, so I keep that stuff on my other computer to try to avoid these types of conflicts.

This problem has had me thrown for a loop for a while. I'm not used to having to ask for help, but this one has me utterly stumped. The only saving grace at all is I've found an easy work-around by just disabling the NIC and then reenabling it every time I have to reboot. Once that is done, everything is fine until the next time I reboot.


----------



## Quadrentendre

Hello,

I don't play on forums much, so apologies if my formatting/framing is weird, or if I'm filing it in the wrong spot.

I bought the z77 Sabertooth about 2 years ago and have been having a great time with it, no problems. I currently have 8 gigs of ram (CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) in dimm_a2) and want to add some more. My problem is that I have a beefy aftermarket cpu cooler, so beefy in fact that it covers up the dimm_a1 slot. Ideally I'd like to add 16 more gigs of ram, for a total of 24 (finally found a game to run in 64 bit that maxes me out, resulting in CTD). What I would like to know is what my best method for adding this ram is.
My options seem to be:
1. Get 2 more 8 gb sticks of the same and slap them into dimm_b1 and b2 (manual has no image for a 3 slot configuration, so not sure if this is possible and not sure if I would have to use a1 for a 3 slot configuration)
2. Get a 16 GB and toss it into slot b2, while keeping the original 8 gb in a2. (don't have enough knowledge regarding single/dual channel stuff to make a decision).
3. Whatever you guys think is best that I didn't list.

I have:
Win7 64 bit
Intel Core i7-3770 @3.5 GHz
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

Please let me know what other information would be useful for you guys to know, thank you for your time.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadrentendre*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I don't play on forums much, so apologies if my formatting/framing is weird, or if I'm filing it in the wrong spot.
> 
> I bought the z77 Sabertooth about 2 years ago and have been having a great time with it, no problems. I currently have 8 gigs of ram (CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) in dimm_a2) and want to add some more. My problem is that I have a beefy aftermarket cpu cooler, so beefy in fact that it covers up the dimm_a1 slot. Ideally I'd like to add 16 more gigs of ram, for a total of 24 (finally found a game to run in 64 bit that maxes me out, resulting in CTD). What I would like to know is what my best method for adding this ram is.
> My options seem to be:
> 1. Get 2 more 8 gb sticks of the same and slap them into dimm_b1 and b2 (manual has no image for a 3 slot configuration, so not sure if this is possible and not sure if I would have to use a1 for a 3 slot configuration)
> 2. Get a 16 GB and toss it into slot b2, while keeping the original 8 gb in a2. (don't have enough knowledge regarding single/dual channel stuff to make a decision).
> 3. Whatever you guys think is best that I didn't list.
> 
> I have:
> Win7 64 bit
> Intel Core i7-3770 @3.5 GHz
> CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
> 
> Please let me know what other information would be useful for you guys to know, thank you for your time.


get an AIO cooler and then have no clearance issues, most likely better cooling performance, better looking (imo). and no issues with ram clearance. any of the 2013/2014 AIO CPU coolers should be great to use. installation on some are easier than others. there are plenty of YouTube videos showing installation of specific models. hop on Amazon.com and newegg.com to get an average score for reviews, then price shop.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> get an AIO cooler and then have no clearance issues, most likely better cooling performance, better looking (imo). and no issues with ram clearance. any of the 2013/2014 AIO CPU coolers should be great to use. installation on some are easier than others. there are plenty of YouTube videos showing installation of specific models. hop on Amazon.com and newegg.com to get an average score for reviews, then price shop.


This is what I would do. AIO is really the way to go.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey everyone Does anyone happen to have any pci covers that arent using I painted mine and want to switch back to black. I called asus and they were no help at all. The gryphon kit does use the same pci cover but 50 bucks for the pci covers is a little steep lol. So i was curious if anyone here as in they don't want I dont mind paying a reasonable price for them.


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> Hey everyone Does anyone happen to have any pci covers that arent using I painted mine and want to switch back to black. I called asus and they were no help at all. The gryphon kit does use the same pci cover but 50 bucks for the pci covers is a little steep lol. So i was curious if anyone here as in they don't want I dont mind paying a reasonable price for them.


What did you paint the covers with? You could use something like diluted Goo Gone to remove the paint.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Plasticote primer than engine enamel no goo be gone will not remove it it's hard as a rock 5 coats of enamel paint.


----------



## Quadrentendre

Thanks guys!

I appreciate you both taking time to reply. I've decided to first just try adding another single 8 GB stick, which will allow me to utilize the dual channel stuff and see how that goes. I'm trying to avoid buying another CPU cooler until I absolutely have to (which is why I was asking about running with 3 sticks, but it seems there's a possibility it would drop me back down to single channel). Slots A2 and B2 are the recommended ones for the two stick configuration, so I'm in the clear for now as far as spacing and will see how it goes.

Thanks again.


----------



## bunja

Hi guys,
It has been a while since i wrote something here, but i have a question
Somwhere i read that cha_fan headers are rated at max 12w (1 amp) so if that is true could i safely plug in two noctua nf-p14's via supplied y-splitter on one of the headers?
They are supposedly 0.96 w max power each.
Can you share your opinions please?


----------



## spacetoast31

I am waiting for my z77 sabertooth to arrive (Wednesday I think) I'm just wondering if anybody has one any water cooling for the actual chip set? Or even the MOSFET? I did. Quick search and just found info about the board with AIO's, and found something about a custom board block but still not any real info to anything g though.

My build is in my Sig but I'm just upgrading my board. And going water.


----------



## Boostmachines

First problem with my Z77 today. Was playing a game and got a BSOD with Windows 7. Booted into the BIOS without a problem and everything was recognized, but it won't complete POST and boot Windows. Looks like the BIOS keeps cycling through and restarting. I haven't had any changes at all since I installed a GTX 780 hydrocopper months ago. Really confused as to what it could be. Kinda late here, so no time for troubleshooting tonight.


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boostmachines*
> 
> First problem with my Z77 today. Was playing a game and got a BSOD with Windows 7. Booted into the BIOS without a problem and everything was recognized, but it won't complete POST and boot Windows. Looks like the BIOS keeps cycling through and restarting. I haven't had any changes at all since I installed a GTX 780 hydrocopper months ago. Really confused as to what it could be. Kinda late here, so no time for troubleshooting tonight.


Try pressing memory ok button on mobo
if it doesnt do post then try resetting bios to defaults


----------



## Boostmachines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> Try pressing memory ok button on mobo
> if it doesnt do post then try resetting bios to defaults


I've already reset the BIOS with no luck. I'll try the memory button next.


----------



## Boostmachines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boostmachines*
> 
> I've already reset the BIOS with no luck. I'll try the memory button next.


Tried the MEMOK button and it got into the BIOS, but after I checked the settings and tried to boot I only saw a blinking cursor when POST should be occurring. It just sits there...


----------



## NIK1

Anyone ever have this happen. I was in the bios doing some memory oc adj and when I saved changes and reboot my monitor screen goes black, there is a oversize big green pointer curser in the middle of the dark screen, it then shuts down completely, then restarts and goes to the desktop normally. I have never seen this big green curser pointer before when exiting the bios before and it does this all the time now when leaving the bios. Has anyone ever seen this before.Also,every time I restart windows 7 it shuts the pc down completely for about 5-7 sec then turns back on and restarts normally. With the windows shutdown it says its shutting down, the monitor goes to standby and the pc does not turn off. All the fans are still running and the power lights on my case are still lit up. I have to hold the pwr button down now to turn it completely off.I put the memory oc back to stock defaults but it still does the same thing. Anyone have any ideas.Maybe reflash the bios. I will wait to see what is recommended.


----------



## Boostmachines

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boostmachines*
> 
> Tried the MEMOK button and it got into the BIOS, but after I checked the settings and tried to boot I only saw a blinking cursor when POST should be occurring. It just sits there...


Turns out that my SSD died. Dropped in a Windows 8.1 drive from my daughter's system and the machine booted without a problem. Interesting how a dead SSD caused so many problems!


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boostmachines*
> 
> Turns out that my SSD died. Dropped in a Windows 8.1 drive from my daughter's system and the machine booted without a problem. Interesting how a dead SSD caused so many problems!


i was suspecting on ram first and then boot drive but yeah weird things happens on pc, i have seen laptops with the same problem, wont boot because of a dead HDD and that same HDD if you plug it in a different pc as a secondary drive for backup it might even freeze the whole computer, just a dead HDD


----------



## Z Overlord

So did Asus remove the UEFI/Legacy Boot option under boot in a bios update? It's not there for me anymore (latest bios)


----------



## cutty1998

I just also started having problems with my Sabertooth .It all started when I decided to upgrade from SLI GTX680's to a single GTX980. I sold my 680's on fleabay,and have not received my new card (it will be here tomorrow) . So I took my old GTX570 ,from this rig I'm on now ,and popped it in the Sabertooth so my Kid could play LOL with his buddies. It would not boot ,just kept re-cycling back into bios. I set all settings in bios to stock,but still won't boot. Took out 570,and tried to use HD4000 in the 3770K ,still no boot. When the 980 arrives tomorrow,it looks like it will be a long day of tinkering. I reset CMOS jumper,but still just boots into bios. Then I even tried to flash a new bios using USB flash on the I/O ,but it did not flash. I extracted the CAP file,and renamed it Z77ST.CAP, held flash button for 3 seconds,but the light blinked like 3 times,then went solid. I know the flash did not work ,but I can still get in&out of my old bios. Not sure what is going to happen when I install the 980,but I doubt it will involve miller time.


----------



## id_mew

I need help big time. I sold my graphics card and my monitor is only a dvi connection and the z77 only has a display port and an hdmi port. So I bought a dvi to display port adapter and connected everything and there was no signal. I did some research and I found out it has to be an active adapter and not passive. So than I tried to get dvi to hdmi adapter and yet that didn't work either. I changed the graphics settings in the bios to IGPU and yet no signal.
Any suggestions? I really hit a wall here. I'm waiting to get a gtx 980,so if could be a week or so with no display.


----------



## spacetoast31

Anybody know what kind of setting i need to change to get my http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1297_Alphacool-flow-indicator-G1-4-with-rpm-signal---Plexi-.html to work? Its not showing any rpm signal, and im not sure why


----------



## carlsagan42

i just went through the same thing, at first i thought it wasnt working but heres what I did.

the only setting you need to change in bios is the igpu as primary display

then on your monitor select the hdmi output - now when i did this to mine the first 2 times nothing happened, but after a couple of restarts and just waiting for the monitor it finally worked.

just wait for it after you select the hdmi, even if it wants you to change back to dvi or vga, do nothing and see what happens.

hope this helped....late reply but

GLHF


----------



## Inacoma79

I haven't been in on this thread in months as you can see. :thumb:Your build is looking tip top.







Custom loop and all. How high can you OC your chip? Mine is still running strong at 4.7. I did have a scare recently...seems my PSU was the culprit so I picked up a 1000W PSU and things are running fine again.


----------



## chiknnwatrmln

Hi, I bought another video card and plan on going CF with watercooling.

So I am going to buy and EK terminal block - but one thing that is confusing me is the distance between the two main PCIE slots. I want both my cards to run at x8 3.0, and EK offers either 2 or 3 slot terminals. I looks at my board and it's hard to tell. Which do I need, the dual or triple slot terminal?


----------



## toyopl

I'm about to upgrade comp a bit, new ssd, going SLI gtx 670, new monitor, nothing major.
But I never updated BIOS ever since I bought this mobo, which was over 2 years ago









Sould I know something updating BIOS ? I'm not an overclocker, I just install win7 and enjoy my comp.


----------



## martian1

Need some advice from people who have fast ram working with the sabertooth. I am upgrading pc and have installed a i72600k cpu which is overclocked to 4500mhz basically I have another media pc and want to take the corsair 1600mhz memory out of the sabertooth for that pc and get some faster ram for my gaming pc [only play bf4 at the moment]
I want to know what speed and brand memory will work well with the i72600k and can you install both 4gb and 8gb sticks without a problem most of the kits like the vengeance pro 2133mhz come in 2x8gb I m running windows 8.1 and have updated boards bios to the very latest version.
Help much appreciated


----------



## martian1

Hi toyopl I have just done the bios update and would say it was worth it for me. If you want to do it here is what I did.
I went to asus site and downloaded both my present version of bios and the latest 2104 the reason being if it went pear shaped I can revert back!!
You also need to download the BRenamer file which basically renames the bios file. What you then do is extract the bios zip file to a created folder and drop the BRenamer file in same folder and run it [you will see the name change to Z77ST.CAP]
You then format a flash drive to FAT32 and add the bios file plug the flash drive into back of pc in the blue flashback port [consult manual if your unsure which it is but it had a button above it] now re-boot pc and get into bios then tools and select Asus EZ flash utility once you do this you should see your new bios file, just follow the instructions and let it use the file and update..takes a few minutes so "DO NOT" touch anything until complete once it tells you this you re-boot pc back into bios and check the version..simples








Obviously not without risk so make sure you are willing to take it should be fine though.


----------



## martian1

Any help guys


----------



## Eze2kiel

*Eze2kiel Rig - Update 2014 v2.1*

Intel Core i5 [email protected] Delid
ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Patriot Intel Extreme Masters Viper 3 DDR3 16GB 2133MHz
Zotac GTX 770 [email protected]
Corsair Force GT 120GB
WD Caviar Green 2TB
Hitachi DS 320GB
BD-RW LG BH10LS30
Cooler Master Silent Pro 700W
Samsung T260
Lian Li X-1000

Koolance CPU-380I Water Block
EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition Acetal+Nickel
Koolance PMP-450 Pump
Koolance HX-CU1402V Radiator 2x140mm 30-FPI Copper
5 x Lian Li LI121425BL-4-A Ball Bearing 140mm fan
2 x Koolance BLT-HX025 Radiator Mounting Screw & Nut
Koolance BKT-TKF3 Adjustable Reservoir Bracket
Koolance BDY-TK080X70 Reservoir Body, 80x80mm (WxL) 308ml
Koolance COV-TKTOPX70 Reservoir Top with Fill Port (80mm OD)
Koolance COV-TKBTMX70 Reservoir Fitting Base
3 x Koolance SCR-CP003PG Fitting Socket Plug
6 x Koolance NZL-V13P Compression 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
2 x Koolance NZL-L13P Swivel Angled 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
1 X Bitspower BP-BS30R
*2 X Bitspower BP-BS45R*
*12 x Koolance CLM-13 Hose Clamp 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD*
Saint-Gobain Durelene PVC tubing 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD
Bitfenix Alchemy ATX 24-pin extension
Bitfenix Alchemy Intel EPS 8-pin extension
Bitfenix Alchemy 8-pin video card extension
Bitfenix Alchemy 6-pin video card extension


----------



## SLADEizGOD

I'm getting my new XFX 295x2 tomorrow & was thinking of getting a second one. It said that its Quad but its really 4 GPU,s will that be a compatibility problem?


----------



## hellojustinr

Hi guys I really need some help, I was following a guide to flash Ozmosis UEFI BIOS and messed up.

I am usually confident with flashing with these type of boards as they have a fail-safe feature (USB Flashback) but it is not working for me no matter what USB I use or file.

I have 2 USBs, one Sandisk one PNY, both formatted FAT32 and I put the 2104.rom as a Z77ST.cap file in the USB root.

Then hold the BIOS Reset button for 3 seconds, it blinks for 5 seconds then just stays lit. I looked up so much on Google how to fix this but everyone who was leading on to something mostly just stopped replying.

PLS HELP


----------



## hellojustinr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lzepplin01*
> 
> OK so I've been trying to use the USB BIOS flashback, and all I get is flashing of the button then it goes solid. I have tried three USB sticks now and it doesn't seem to work. I downloaded the bios and renamed it to Z77ST.CAP on all of them and the same thing happened. They were all FAT formatted and the file was in the root directory.
> I flashed the BIOS because I have had some instability in the system (not due to the overclock).
> The 670 GTX has given some instability and RSODs but that resolved with new ASUS software. I have had a few BSODs as well.
> 
> **UPDATE
> 
> I managed to put the new BIOS on via bupdate in DOS when booting from the mobo CD. Successfully updated, but nothing changed. Still only seeing 8 GB, still no turbo ratio or internal pll settings.


This is the exact issue I'm facing right now, like USB BIOS Flashback was just put on the motherboard and wasn't finalized to work at all. However I cannot start up the PC, it just boot loops because I messed up the BIOS.

It was doing this same behavior however even before I messed up the BIOS, couldn't use USB BIOS flashback to downgrade BIOS or flash custom BIOS so I had to go through loopholes. Regretting it so much right now.

I have used the feature before on my MAXIMUS VI HERO so I know how it works, just it's completely not working at all for me on this mobo.


----------



## fvbarc

Hi to everyone, i need advice. Today my new GTX 970 video card will arrive but i have a doubt.
On my mobo there are one video card, one pci-e 1x sound card, one pci-e 4x revodrive3.
By this configuration this mobo runs the graphic card slot at 8x instead of 16x. The old gtx580 runs perfectly but the gtx970?
Must i take off the sound card in order to run new 970 at 16x?
At 8x i loose performances?
Sorry for my english
Thanks


----------



## hellojustinr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fvbarc*
> 
> Hi to everyone, i need advice. Today my new GTX 970 video card will arrive but i have a doubt.
> On my mobo there are one video card, one pci-e 1x sound card, one pci-e 4x revodrive3.
> By this configuration this mobo runs the graphic card slot at 8x instead of 16x. The old gtx580 runs perfectly but the gtx970?
> Must i take off the sound card in order to run new 970 at 16x?
> At 8x i loose performances?
> Sorry for my english
> Thanks


No not with single GPU configuration. Impact is minimal at best.

In that same logic, dual GPUs also work by x8 configuration (1 x16 lane divided to two) and performance is those GPUs are not bus speed limited but rather thermal limited (since they are closer together and all the transistors are put on the same PCB, they are downclocked to accommodate)


----------



## fvbarc

Do you know if there is some compatibility problem between this mobo and my msi gtx 970?
If i run 3dmark, after few second pc turns off and then reboots
Gaming assassin's creed unity same thing happens after 1 our
I also try to remove revodrive 3, the creative sound card and all hdd without changes
If it was a overheating problem i should have blue screen, not this
Using the old gtx580 no problem
Is it a power supply problem?
I have an Enermax Infiniti 720W EPS 12V V2.92 compliant
the graphic card has the latest bios version
motherboard has the latest bios version
Any ideas?


----------



## icy1007

My Sabertooth Z77 still has BIOS 1708 installed. I am having no issues at all, but would there be any benefit to updating to 2104?


----------



## Eze2kiel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icy1007*
> 
> My Sabertooth Z77 still has BIOS 1708 installed. I am having no issues at all, but would there be any benefit to updating to 2104?


Ideally always have the latest BIOS


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fvbarc*
> 
> Do you know if there is some compatibility problem between this mobo and my msi gtx 970?
> If i run 3dmark, after few second pc turns off and then reboots
> Gaming assassin's creed unity same thing happens after 1 our
> I also try to remove revodrive 3, the creative sound card and all hdd without changes
> If it was a overheating problem i should have blue screen, not this
> Using the old gtx580 no problem
> Is it a power supply problem?
> I have an Enermax Infiniti 720W EPS 12V V2.92 compliant
> the graphic card has the latest bios version
> motherboard has the latest bios version
> Any ideas?


you dont have to worry about a thing.
i have a gigabyte GTX 970 G1 in my system and i have a Sabertooth Z77 as well

1sr, have you tried running your system with just the Card and OS hard drive in it ?
2nd have you uninstalled your nvidia drivers completely and reinstalled with the latest drivers ( a clean install where it deletes the old drivers)
3rd record your temps when you game.

if non of those work, then try installing OS onto a empty hard drive (spare one) install all your mobo and g-card drivers, run 3dmark bearing inmind that its only your G-crad thats plugged in and no other cards.

give that a try and let us know.


----------



## fvbarc

i buy a antec high current gamer 850w....
Now my gtx970 runs perfectly
3dmark has no problem
My old 720w Enermax infiniti wasn't enough. It seems to be impossible
Minimun spec tell about 500w


----------



## CODELESS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fvbarc*
> 
> i buy a antec high current gamer 850w....
> Now my gtx970 runs perfectly
> 3dmark has no problem
> My old 720w Enermax infiniti wasn't enough. It seems to be impossible
> Minimun spec tell about 500w


could be faulty, 750 i more than enough,


----------



## crazyquark

Hello guys,

I am new here







.
I've had this board for a couple of years now.

I had my issues but nothing major until now...
I am on the latest BIOS v.2104

A while ago I installed Windows 7 in UEFI mode - I used to have in legacy BIOS mode.
I wanted this so that I could boot all my OSes from UEFI(I also have Linux and something else...)

It worked for a while but then I started having problems. Now that I think back it might be related to the fact that I used efibootmgr from linux to remove boot entries.
Either way, this is what happens:
When I reboot my computer, it no longer finishes POST - I get the TFU logo and it freezes.
The only solution I found is to unplug all my HDDs, shut off the PSU, wait 30s and then restart with only the windows HDD plugged in.
This usually works after a few tries...

I tried clearing the CMOS to wipe any misconfigurations - did not help.

Does anyone know how to get the 80h POST codes on this mobo? My old EVGA used to have a 2 digit display that would show that but this one does not seem to have such a thing...
Also, could it be a compatibility issue with Windows 7? Windows 7 does not boot if I disable CSM for example.

I tried to find resources about UEFI debugging - I have a serial TTL cable that I could use but I can't figure out where are the debug serial pins on this mobo. Has anyone tried this?

I know this is a long post ... any help would be appreciated.

Thank you!


----------



## Cappu01

Hi at all from Germany.

I use this board for a few years, everything runs well.

The littel assistant fan on the back panel i use a noctua 40mm fan.

Do you know if there is a fan for the second assistant fan on the board?

The asus one ist really loud even at 40%.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cappu01*
> 
> Hi at all from Germany.
> 
> I use this board for a few years, everything runs well.
> 
> The littel assistant fan on the back panel i use a noctua 40mm fan.
> 
> Do you know if there is a fan for the second assistant fan on the board?
> 
> The asus one ist really loud even at 40%.


Not really, there are some alternatives 35 mm fans but nothing serious enough to recommend.

At one point I actually had a noctua 40 mm there if you dont mind the look and a bit of ghetto setup, you can use only one screw to fit it there it will hold and more importantly cool the stuff quite well.

I removed it because I did not like it there and just kept original one down to 40% until few days ago when i got sli and had to remove due to souncard.


----------



## dieselHomey

Hi all is the 3770k quad core 3.5 best cpu for this board?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dieselHomey*
> 
> Hi all is the 3770k quad core 3.5 best cpu for this board?


Yes


----------



## cpaqf1

Hi, does anyone know how to enable wake on lan?

thanks!


----------



## hellojustinr

RMA'd board only for it to be returned back unrepaired (somewhat expected).

Was able to fix my BIOS problem by just buying a replacement BIOS chip on eBay, was very easy to swap out.

I waited four weeks for this board... + the $12 shipping I paid.









Should've just bought the BIOS chip.

Using it right now.

FYI for anyone using The USB BIOS Flashback feature, IT DOES NOT WORK. Not on this model, ASUS messed up on it.


----------



## Muscles

So my new build was exhibiting a whining noise which I found out was due to the small fan on the front of the mobo! Anyone else have noisy TUF fans?


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellojustinr*
> 
> RMA'd board only for it to be returned back unrepaired (somewhat expected).
> 
> Was able to fix my BIOS problem by just buying a replacement BIOS chip on eBay, was very easy to swap out.
> 
> I waited four weeks for this board... + the $12 shipping I paid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should've just bought the BIOS chip.
> 
> Using it right now.
> 
> FYI for anyone using The USB BIOS Flashback feature, IT DOES NOT WORK. Not on this model, ASUS messed up on it.


Hmmm.... I just updated mine to the latest BIOS and it works fine. DOH!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muscles*
> 
> So my new build was exhibiting a whining noise which I found out was due to the small fan on the front of the mobo! Anyone else have noisy TUF fans?


Seems like I remember this being a common issue in some of the product. I personally don't have any problems. You may be able to get new fans sent since it's under 5 year warranty.


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muscles*
> 
> So my new build was exhibiting a whining noise which I found out was due to the small fan on the front of the mobo! Anyone else have noisy TUF fans?


It will do that above 4k rpm, If you dislike it you can either remove it, or just adjust the curve in thermal radar so it does not go higher than 3500 rpm tough it will not be so effective.
It really doesnt matter, but some internal temps on my end are 10 c lower when used.

You can get a 40 mm noctua or other 40mm fan and use only one screw to hold it there, altough it wont look as nice.

If there were only 35 to 40 mm adapters.
I do not understand why they insist on using 35 mm fans even on newer sabers.


----------



## Muscles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bunja*
> 
> It will do that above 4k rpm, If you dislike it you can either remove it, or just adjust the curve in thermal radar so it does not go higher than 3500 rpm tough it will not be so effective.
> It really doesnt matter, but some internal temps on my end are 10 c lower when used.
> 
> You can get a 40 mm noctua or other 40mm fan and use only one screw to hold it there, altough it wont look as nice.
> 
> If there were only 35 to 40 mm adapters.
> I do not understand why they insist on using 35 mm fans even on newer sabers.


In the fan control it seems like I can only control the chassis fans and not the assistant fans, I haven't played around with the BIOS yet though. Can you point me in the right direction?


----------



## bunja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Muscles*
> 
> In the fan control it seems like I can only control the chassis fans and not the assistant fans, I haven't played around with the BIOS yet though. Can you point me in the right direction?


Pictures:

hope it helps:

They are separate from chassis fans


----------



## pfinch

Hey guys!

I got a problem with the USB power management while the system is off.
My NZXT Kraken x61 and Netgear Wireless Adapter still getting annoying power via usb (light on on the devices).

I already enabled ErP in the BIOS...but it doesnt help..

do you guys got any idea how to fix it?

Thank you!


----------



## Gr44

Hi All,

New to the forum but hoping you may be able to help me with an issue I'm having with this motherboard (Z77 Sabertooth).

I have had this motherboard for some ~2 years without incidents, previously had a GTX670 installed - I upgraded to a GTX970 around December time which has been great - so much so I decided to buy another one to SLI it!

This is where I've hit my issue, I've installed the 2nd GPU in the recommended slot, both have power, however the 2nd GPU doesn't get detected by the BIOS or device manager etc.

I have tried with and without the SLI bridge, both cards work fine in slot 1, neither work in slot 2. I have tried numerous settings in the bios, including forcing PCIE 2.0 and 1.0/1.1 with no luck.

Installing in slots 1 and 3 means I can see the 2nd card in device manager but it's obviously poor performance as I understand it (and the SLI bridge I have wont work to test it!)

Many people seem to have the same issue on a google but no one seems to have resolved the issue. I haven't yet resorted to taking the heatsink off to check the CPU pins are all intact but I would be surprised if any are damaged - and more surprised if the issue was isolated to the PCIE lanes!

Specs are:

Z77 Sabertooth
I5 3750K
Corsair Vengence 16GB - (CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9)
2x GTX970's (Asus Strix)

I am also speaking to Asus support but not that helpful so far!

Any assistance would be very welcome!

Regards

Sean


----------



## POLICE

hy!

be quiet dark ROCK PRO 3 good with sabertooth z77?
enough space?


----------



## POLICE

yes its good
sabertooth z77 + darkrockpro3


----------



## NIK1

Anyone know what the normal operating temp is for a Sabertooth Z77 mb. I have a Coolermaster Cosmos 2 case with a swiftech H240x mounted up top with the fans on the rad exhausting. When I run the 2 top 140mm helix fans at 1400 rpm the mb temp is at 39 cel.With the fans revved up to max rpm the mb temp is at 29 cel. Just curious on what the normal operating temp is suppose to be for this board.


----------



## majnu

Guys where has the official support page gone, i'm trying to get the latest bios but the page has gone.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *majnu*
> 
> Guys where has the official support page gone, i'm trying to get the latest bios but the page has gone.


Quick google search.....
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/HelpDesk_Download/


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Quick google search.....
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/HelpDesk_Download/


Legend, thank you


----------



## sergiuspoet

someone has photos MB without a casing and cooling system. need for the design of water-blocks. please post here or PM Thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> Anyone know what the normal operating temp is for a Sabertooth Z77 mb. I have a Coolermaster Cosmos 2 case with a swiftech H240x mounted up top with the fans on the rad exhausting. When I run the 2 top 140mm helix fans at 1400 rpm the mb temp is at 39 cel.With the fans revved up to max rpm the mb temp is at 29 cel. Just curious on what the normal operating temp is suppose to be for this board.


Its a 27C day here and my 'board' sensor is at 36C

Never took much notice of it, but it doesn't seem to change much unless gaming for a fair while.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Hello guys, I'm new to this thread, and was hoping you could help me out. I have this mobo, and I'm going for my first full watercooled build, and I have a question. I just bough my second EVGA GTX 970 SC 04G-P4-2974-KR (Waiting for the card and WB's) and I wanted to confirmed if a "Spaced" or "Non Spaced" Nvidia SLI bridge would be the correct one to get? I read the manuel and it doesnt make sense (Atleast to me), and I dont have direct access to my mobo ATM. If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you

Spaced http://www.ebay.com/itm/nVidia-2-Way-Spaced-SLI-Bridge-/171758204327?

Non-Spaced http://www.ebay.com/itm/nVidia-2-Way-Non-Spaced-SLI-Bridge-/181717354860?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4f32c96c


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaal Sinestro*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm new to this thread, and was hoping you could help me out. I have this mobo, and I'm going for my first full watercooled build, and I have a question. I just bough my second EVGA GTX 970 SC 04G-P4-2974-KR (Waiting for the card and WB's) and I wanted to confirmed if a "Spaced" or "Non Spaced" Nvidia SLI bridge would be the correct one to get? I read the manuel and it doesnt make sense (Atleast to me), and I dont have direct access to my mobo ATM. If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you
> 
> Spaced http://www.ebay.com/itm/nVidia-2-Way-Spaced-SLI-Bridge-/171758204327?
> 
> Non-Spaced http://www.ebay.com/itm/nVidia-2-Way-Non-Spaced-SLI-Bridge-/181717354860?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4f32c96c


It is spaced


----------



## Pury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sergiuspoet*
> 
> someone has photos MB without a casing and cooling system. need for the design of water-blocks. please post here or PM Thanks


I have seen my mobo without dust cover and i can confirm it is like the one in this pic i searched on google


----------



## clubber_lang

Hey guys....total newb here , but I am having an issue here as well. Only issue I have is that on initial startup it keeping booting up into DOS , and telling me that the OC has failed. So I have to press F8 , choose my SSD boot drive and she starts right up. Runs fine with no issues that I'm aware of.

I'd like to do a couple of tests to find out if she's still OC'd and doing thing properly. I think the guy who built this for me , has it setup to go into overclocking mode when any games , or test is being done? But I don't know weather it's doing that or not.

The OC was set at 4.5v and has been running solid for the past two years until just this past month. Specs are here....

Sabertooth H77
2600K @ 4.5v
16GB Gskill ram
2 X 7970's in CFX
2 X 1TB WD black drives
1 - 256GB SSD drive.

Also , the guy who built this thing mentioned that he had heard of others having issues like this and it ended up being the memory was firing up out of time. Something to do with the ram bios? I know I've been here for quite some time , but I don't really know much about computers any more ( never really did ) so I could use some advice here. Thanks guys.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pury*
> 
> I have seen my mobo without dust cover and i can confirm it is like the one in this pic i searched on google


It's actually quite sexy looking when you remove all that cheapo ABS cover off it. Never liked Asus using cheap plastic to cover a remarkable looking motherboard.

Should be shown easily and praised for it's design because it's far better leaving the 'shroud' off it than having it installed, temp wise.


----------



## spacetoast31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> It's actually quite sexy looking when you remove all that cheapo ABS cover off it. Never liked Asus using cheap plastic to cover a remarkable looking motherboard.
> 
> Should be shown easily and praised for it's design because it's far better leaving the 'shroud' off it than having it installed, temp wise.


The shroud is nice for aesthetics for sure. It gives your build a quality, clean look. I love mine. I wish a company made them for all types of boards but sadly they do not. Because im moving to an ITX build soon. I will miss the armor.


----------



## Widde

Hi dont know if they are any owners club for sabertooth z97 but I'm guessing it's pretty much the same, I'm having a problem when I'm trying to overclock my 4770k it doesnt save the settings in the bios, I've set the xmp profile etc raised the core ratio to 3,8 and sync all cores but it doesnt apply it for some reason it just reverts back to 3,5.









Edit: Fixed it, I'm blind







It didnt show up to the right side but it applied ^^ How high do I dare to go with vcore on haswell btw? Was doing 1.35 24/7 with my 3570k at 4.5ghz


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I'm getting my new XFX 295x2 tomorrow & was thinking of getting a second one. It said that its Quad but its really 4 GPU,s will that be a compatibility problem?


There will be a lane problem. Its 2 GPUs on one card so it will run at x4 for each card. However AMD GPUs can work at x4 but your performance will suffer quite a bit. You are also going to need a 1500+ watt PSU to run those. What are you doing that you need quadfire? The thing is will it work most likely yes. Will it perform like it should most likely no is it worth it no. The most I would do is set the first pcie slot to x16 (with the 295x2 then get a r9 290x and set its slot to x8 for trifire it will perform better than quad fire do to lane issues.


----------



## XigXag

I guess I'm a little late to the party... But..



Thought I'd make my submission.

Having a few problems with xfire 290s at the moment, but I'll work it out.


----------



## Velsu

Is it possible to fit SLI GTX 970/980 along with Titanium HD sound card with NH-DH14 cooler? At the moment i have GTX 670(1st slot) + DH14 + Titanium HD (3rd slot) and it looks a little tight. I wanted to make an upgrade to GTX 9xx series SLI but im worried that Titanium HD wont fit anymore or that it wont have any space.

Anyone around with SLI GPU and a Soundcard maybe?


----------



## maTyaR

I don't see any problem with that setup. Does your NH-D14 block the first PCI-E 1x slot (the very first slot)? If not, you could use that slot for your sound card. If it blocks your first slot, you can put it into the next PCI-E 1x slot

The 970/980s all occupy 2 slots, and since the two PCI-E slots are far apart.


----------



## Clam Slammer

Hey gang, sabertooth represent.

I've been having a whole slew of issues, thought I'd ask here before I make a thread, even though I can't be certain the issue lies in motherboard. Computer in question is in signature.

Bios and post are fine, but afterwards, where I am used to seeing seven blue dashes in the top left (I never found out why), and this exists on all monitors used, I have been getting rainbow diagonal striped artifacts and no boot (See picture.) I have tried two separate boot devices. Same exists in safe mode.

Recently, after having issues with no sound, and unresponsive clicks, I updated realtek and R.A.T. 7 drivers. Then, the next day I come home and I cannot get my computer to emit a video signal. After switching around graphics cards for a bit I end up getting a signal. Also, I was trying to get my R9 290 to work, but when the card is installed the fans and lights go on for about a second before they turn off again. After draining power, it does the same again. My 6950 did work, however.

Now, today, I cannot boot, and I am getting these unique artifacts. Which has left me stuck after trying multiple boot devices, two seperate graphics cards, two monitors, resetting bios, and using the boards Mem-Ok feature, which cycled through all components but did not give an indicated red light issue.

If anyone has any ideas into what might by causing my mess, I will be eternally thankful.

Sorry for miserable quality.


----------



## Z Overlord

So what ethernet driver do you guys use with this? I used the Intel® 82579 Gigabit Ethernet Controller driver from Intel's site but with the ethernet enabled LatencyMon says I have high latency, with it off it says I'm fine


----------



## TheOwlHootHoot

Anyone having a problem with Z77 bios? Mine are not letting me control the turbo ratio for some reason. I'm not sure what has changed and I have tried many different versions of the BIOS. Anyone else having the problem or know a fix?


----------



## muh42

hello, i have a question regarding windows 10.

cause of the free update i am maybe tempted to use it. looks like after 3 years we dont will get new drivers from asus, are all the mainboard drivers already working in windows 10 without need of installing them by myself?

or should i use windows 7 or windows 8 drivers?

someone already has experience with this?

e: because i read now about driver compatibility mode, will that work flawless?


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muh42*
> 
> hello, i have a question regarding windows 10.
> 
> cause of the free update i am maybe tempted to use it. looks like after 3 years we dont will get new drivers from asus, are all the mainboard drivers already working in windows 10 without need of installing them by myself?
> 
> or should i use windows 7 or windows 8 drivers?
> 
> someone already has experience with this?
> 
> e: because i read now about driver compatibility mode, will that work flawless?


You can find the drivers for the individual motherboard modules online. For example for Realtek Onboard Audio here: http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/

Intel Ethernet drivers here: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/26550/Intel-82573E-Gigabit-Ethernet-Controller

etc


----------



## muh42

sure, but they are at the moment not for windows 10, are you sure they will update all the drivers? or maybe some drivers got support out of the box in windows 10 (lan/chipset/usb3)?

and because i havnt time to try the technical preview i am looking for someone who tried it already with this mainboard and can tell if the drivers work. i dont want to upgrade and then it dont works and then rollback to 7 maybe dont works.

for sure i will wait at least 6 months until the big problems with 10 are solved and maybe after release someone can tell me here if they got the mainboard working flawless.


----------



## Z Overlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muh42*
> 
> sure, but they are at the moment not for windows 10, are you sure they will update all the drivers? or maybe some drivers got support out of the box in windows 10 (lan/chipset/usb3)?


I am certain both of these will happen. For sure it will work out of the box, but no doubt later drivers from Intel and Realtek will come out on their site more up to date, but they probably won't be necessarily Windows 10 related bug fixes.


----------



## Phoenyx

Hi all,
I've been a lurker here at overclock.net for a while now so 'Hi everyone!'









Anyway, I am pretty late to this thread but I'm in need of help from those who are familiar with this motherboard.

I have had this system a while now, and I have now used up all the on-die SATA connectors for storage, so I want to use the two white/gray ASMEDIA SATA ports on the motherboard. But those ports don't seem to work at all. Since I have never had need of these two SATA ports, I have never used, nor tested them.

What I have done so far (usual troubleshooting):

Checked that the Intel SATA ports (brown and black) are in a non-raid configuration and are set to run in ACHI mode.
I have checked that the ASMEDIA (front) controller in the UEFI BIOS is enabled.
I have tested the ASMEDIA SATA ports with an ODD, HDD and SSD. None of these are detected in the UEFI BIOS SATA Configuration. (I don't even see these ASMEDIA ports listed) The drives don't appear in the boot menu or within Windows.
Checked power supply cables.
I have checked to see if any drivers are missing and ran through Device Manager to check for any hardware that is missing drivers. I don't even see the ASMEDIA controller in the Device Manager.
Reflashed the lastest firmware 2104 (08/13/2013) via the bios reflash button on the rear I/O.
If memory serves me well, the firmware that I received this board with had options in the UEFI BIOS that enabled the ASMEDIA OpROM; these options are not available in the latest version of the firmware.

Also IIRC the board also use to display some ASMEDIA drive detection list after POST, it no longer does this. I have checked that Option ROM messages are enabled.

Basically, enabling the front ASMEDIA ports in the UEFI BIOS does nothing, the ports or the drives attached to them are not detected in the BIOS or Windows.

I know these ports aren't fast, hence why I've used all the Intel ports first, but I don't need speed on these ports as I am going to connect a caddy with removable drives that requires two SATA ports, so speed isnt essential here.

If anyone can shed some light on this problem or what I could do, check or test I'd greatly appreciate it.

--Kindest Regards, Nyx


----------



## kingedawg

Hi, first post here!

Doing some preliminary research... looking to beef up since I'm now officially playing ALL next-gen fighting games on PC (Killer Instinct, whatup). This could turn into a full build later, but staying fairly close to my current rig for now - which is still pretty good - so I might just replace one or two things gradually.

I have a P67 v3, big advocate. Looking to replace with a Z77 at some point... yes, I know it's hard to find at a reasonable price now, but I hear it's a beast and well worth it. Plus, the USB3 header on my P67 has a snapped pin, which causes issues. That said, here's a hypothetical setup to start:

mobo: Z77
cpu: i7 3770K
ram: Kingston HyperX Savage 1600MHz DDR3 (2x4GB) + the 2x4GB Kingston HyperX from my current rig, for a total of 16GB

As far as I know, there aren't any issues there so far. What I'm trying to determine is the CPU cooler. I know traditionally, Sabertooth mobos favor a top-down (blowing at the mobo) heatsinks, and I've narrowed it down to a few of those. My first instinct was to go with a Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet; I have a Zalman tower cooler now and it's nice and quiet like I like it (top clearance shouldn't be an issue if I stick with my NZXT Phantom case, which I love), BUT everything I've seen on the CNPS8900 suggests it's going to have issues overlapping the DIMM slots. Since I'm using all 4, this could be a problem. The Kingston Savage I'm adding is considered "low-profile," so it may fit, but I've also heard the heat spreaders add a little bulk (supposedly 32.8mm height).

If that doesn't work, I'm also considering the Noctua NH-C14S, which is rated highly, but a bit noisier and ugly as sin, or the Cooler Master GeminII S524 Ver 2, which I honestly don't know much about.

Any suggestions are appreciated!


----------



## XigXag

Phoenyx: I suggest checking the ASUS website for an up to date version of the asmedia chipset driver. I had actually been using my board for a couple weeks before I realised I hadn't installed the driver for it. Windows will not prompt you for it.

KingedawG: I suggest you stick with kingston hyperx and don't bother with the "savage" model as they probably have tighter timings and mis-matched RAM can lead to instability. Also, have you looked into corsair closed loop coolers? I run an H60 as I didn't want it to take up a large chunk of my case and this leaves plenty of room for high profile RAM. Don't doubt the cooling power of the cheaper H60 either, I have my 3770K at 4.5GHz and the temps are within what I would consider safe. (25-30C Idle depending on ambient, 70-80C FarCry4 and 80-85C while benchmarking. And I'm not done fine tuning voltages)

Hope this helps!


----------



## kingedawg

Quote:


> KingedawG: I suggest you stick with kingston hyperx and don't bother with the "savage" model as they probably have tighter timings and mis-matched RAM can lead to instability. Also, have you looked into corsair closed loop coolers? I run an H60 as I didn't want it to take up a large chunk of my case and this leaves plenty of room for high profile RAM. Don't doubt the cooling power of the cheaper H60 either, I have my 3770K at 4.5GHz and the temps are within what I would consider safe. (25-30C Idle depending on ambient, 70-80C FarCry4 and 80-85C while benchmarking. And I'm not done fine tuning voltages)


Good point about the ram, I'd probably either stick with 2x4GB more of the original hyperx or go with a full 16GB of the savage... should I happen into some kind of major cash flow.

I haven't really looked at closed loop but I'll do some reading. Though my thinking so far has been to go another way, since A) I'm probably not going to be in a rush to overclock for my immediate purposes, and B) I'm still curious about taking advantage of the Z77's thermal armor airflow with a down-blowing cooler - that is, if it would be comparable to the kind of cooling you might get from a closed loop or the like.

Speaking to the Zalman CNPS8900, might anyone have a rough idea of how it would fit in the Z77? It's 120mm diameter, and I'm almost sure it will overlap a DIMM slot (or 2), but I'm wondering more about the amount of space under the height of the "slope" - if you look at it, the pipes slope upward, so that very low-profile ram might squeak under without touching. Just wondering if I should rule it out completely, like I said this is all preliminary.


----------



## n3tr0m

Just a quick question (im sorry if anyone else have answered this in the past). I just got my new set of RAM, HyperX Fury 1866Mhz 16GB kit. And they are equipped with something called PnP (stands for Plug n Play?), and when I installed them in my system on this board it booted up with 1333Mhz and CL8 timings, is this normal? I thought it was supposed to clock itself up to the timings for the RAM which should be CL11 and 1866Mhz.

And another question, I tried to overclock my Intel Core i7 2600K after I cleared the BIOS prior to installing the new RAM modules (was recommended på HyperX), and now I can't set the multiplier to anything else than 34. Whenever I insert 45 (lets say that) and press "Enter" , it jumps back down to 34. This happens all the time for all the numbers that I put in. Anyone else experienced this before? Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## replica9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3tr0m*
> 
> Just a quick question (im sorry if anyone else have answered this in the past). I just got my new set of RAM, HyperX Fury 1866Mhz 16GB kit. And they are equipped with something called PnP (stands for Plug n Play?), and when I installed them in my system on this board it booted up with 1333Mhz and CL8 timings, is this normal? I thought it was supposed to clock itself up to the timings for the RAM which should be CL11 and 1866Mhz.
> 
> And another question, I tried to overclock my Intel Core i7 2600K after I cleared the BIOS prior to installing the new RAM modules (was recommended på HyperX), and now I can't set the multiplier to anything else than 34. Whenever I insert 45 (lets say that) and press "Enter" , it jumps back down to 34. This happens all the time for all the numbers that I put in. Anyone else experienced this before? Am I doing something wrong?


As far as RAM goes, you'll either need to set the XMP profile, or manually input the specs.

For the CPU, you need to adjust the turbo frequencies for overclock.


----------



## CODELESS

Sup guys, does anyone know if Asus will release drivers for windows 10 ?


----------



## Hornblower

Hi All,

I need some help with OC. I have had this motherboard for some +3 years without big issues.
But i never get it 100% stable. Tried many different settings but no luck. For some time i was running 4,5ghz with v1.250 and it was fine but i was still getting crashes, BSOD etc sometimes.

In the past month i've had a bit more crashes and more troubles than usual.
Crashing in desktop, loading to windows, Prime95 blend test(custom) was stopping after few mins.

Temps were never too high, max it was around 85*C on hot days. Most of the times temps on cpu are around 70-80*C on load and 35-40*C on IDLE.

My spec is:

CPU: i7 3770k + noctua nh-d14
MOBO: Sabertooth Z77 (2104 bios)
RAM: (4x4) corsair vengeance 16gb 1600mhz
PSU: bequiet! straight power 680W
GPU: Gigabyte 670 GTX 2GB
OTHER: SSD + 3x HDD

All driver are up to date.

Right now i want to get it stable at 4.0 or 4.2ghz.

My Current bios settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Could use some help from someone more experienced than me in OC on this mobo.

Any suggestions are appreciated!


----------



## aidenn

To anyone interested - I plunged into W10 headfirst and there are no issues so far. I'm running 2500k @ stock, 570 GTX, 8 GB ram and SSD for the OS. The only issue I see is drives listed in removable media due to the lack of Intel RST, but I'll wait until someone checks if it doesn't break anything before I bring it in. Other than that it's fine and dandy on M$ default drivers, no USB3.0 issues or weird entries in the device manager. Props for a good OS.


----------



## skiline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hornblower*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I need some help with OC. I have had this motherboard for some +3 years without big issues.
> But i never get it 100% stable. Tried many different settings but no luck. For some time i was running 4,5ghz with v1.250 and it was fine but i was still getting crashes, BSOD etc sometimes.
> 
> In the past month i've had a bit more crashes and more troubles than usual.
> Crashing in desktop, loading to windows, Prime95 blend test(custom) was stopping after few mins.
> 
> Temps were never too high, max it was around 85*C on hot days. Most of the times temps on cpu are around 70-80*C on load and 35-40*C on IDLE.
> 
> My spec is:
> 
> CPU: i7 3770k + noctua nh-d14
> MOBO: Sabertooth Z77 (2104 bios)
> RAM: (4x4) corsair vengeance 16gb 1600mhz
> PSU: bequiet! straight power 680W
> GPU: Gigabyte 670 GTX 2GB
> OTHER: SSD + 3x HDD
> 
> All driver are up to date.
> 
> Right now i want to get it stable at 4.0 or 4.2ghz.
> 
> My Current bios settings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could use some help from someone more experienced than me in OC on this mobo.
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated!


heres my overclock

its 28degrees celcius in my room and the cpu temps are 36degrees celcius idle


----------



## Badge56

I am now using windows 10 on my Sabertooth Z77 and have no issues.


----------



## chris1994

which drivers do you use


----------



## HDut

Hi guys, I'm Brazilian and I don't kow how to solve a problem that I'm having. I've tried a lot off 'solutions' but none of them worked. I'm here to ask for your help.
I have a pc for two years and a half (the only difference is the video card that was a 660ti and I've changed for GTX 970)

Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z77
Processor: Core i7 3770K
Memory: 32gb 1600 (4 - 8gb)
Video Card: GTX 970
Storage: SSD OCZ Vertex 3 120gb (system w10)
1TB Seagate HDD
320gb HDD (notebook deceased - System w7)
Power Supply: Colermaster 700w

The BIOS just stopped recognizing the SSD, so after I finished Windows 10 update (Boot Device Led in motherboard was on). After restarting the computer, I was stuck in Asus logo. The pc does not respond to keyboard commands. I've tried many things to solve this problem and none of them worked.

Only needed for operation (motherboard, video card, memory (1 slot), SSD)
- Disconnected the SSD - it worked (I entered the bios and reseted the computer)
- Changed SATA port, switch power and data cable
- Reseted CMOS (jumper)
- Changed BIOS AHCI to SATA
- Enabled BIOS AHCI to HOT SWAP
- Downgrade BIOS motherboard
- SSD firmware was already updated

If I start windows 7 by an old HDD from my Notebook (leaving the option HOT SWAP active) and connect the SSD, the PC recognizes the SSD on Windows, I've tried running chkdsk and it didn't find any errors, but after Rebooting, it went back to freeze at the boot screen.

If I connect the SSD into another notebook, the BIOS finds it and loads the windows 10 normally.

I do not know where is the problem. The problem is in my motherboard or SSD?


----------



## Vaelaar

So it sounds like folks are having success without any specific drivers at all? I upgraded from Win 7 (64) to Win 10 and I haven't had any issues. I assume the drivers carried over without a problem. However, I'm contemplating doing a clean install/reformat and was just wondering which drivers (if any) I need to download in order to get the best performance. My wacky logic dictates that I'd download the latest drivers (which happen to be 8.1 64-bit) but I wanted to check on others' experiences.

Thanks!


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HDut*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm Brazilian and I don't kow how to solve a problem that I'm having. I've tried a lot off 'solutions' but none of them worked. I'm here to ask for your help.
> I have a pc for two years and a half (the only difference is the video card that was a 660ti and I've changed for GTX 970)
> 
> Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z77
> Processor: Core i7 3770K
> Memory: 32gb 1600 (4 - 8gb)
> Video Card: GTX 970
> Storage: SSD OCZ Vertex 3 120gb (system w10)
> 1TB Seagate HDD
> 320gb HDD (notebook deceased - System w7)
> Power Supply: Colermaster 700w
> 
> The BIOS just stopped recognizing the SSD, so after I finished Windows 10 update (Boot Device Led in motherboard was on). After restarting the computer, I was stuck in Asus logo. The pc does not respond to keyboard commands. I've tried many things to solve this problem and none of them worked.
> 
> Only needed for operation (motherboard, video card, memory (1 slot), SSD)
> - Disconnected the SSD - it worked (I entered the bios and reseted the computer)
> - Changed SATA port, switch power and data cable
> - Reseted CMOS (jumper)
> - Changed BIOS AHCI to SATA
> - Enabled BIOS AHCI to HOT SWAP
> - Downgrade BIOS motherboard
> - SSD firmware was already updated
> 
> If I start windows 7 by an old HDD from my Notebook (leaving the option HOT SWAP active) and connect the SSD, the PC recognizes the SSD on Windows, I've tried running chkdsk and it didn't find any errors, but after Rebooting, it went back to freeze at the boot screen.
> 
> If I connect the SSD into another notebook, the BIOS finds it and loads the windows 10 normally.
> 
> I do not know where is the problem. The problem is in my motherboard or SSD?


Hi HDut,

Did you figure out your SSD boot problem ?
I am guessing you have this drive set in bios as first boot priority - is it recognized in the bios ?
Have you updated you bios ?
Try setting your bios back to default and select that drive as 1st boot. ( Flash to latest bios )

I recently upgraded to Windows 10 without any problems - also using SSD.
If you cant get past the logo screen or even enter the bios reset the CMOS. The jumper pin needs to be moved please read the manual.

It sounds like the bios has been corrupted.
Let me know how you go. I have spent many many hours with this board.

Cheers


----------



## bcuz007

Hi

1st issue with windows 10 and sabertooth Z77

Everytime the adsl router restarts the ethernet card hangs up in windows 10.

I have to then disable and re-enable it in device manager to get it to work again.

Anyone else have this problem ?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Hurtn4ASquirtn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcuz007*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 1st issue with windows 10 and sabertooth Z77
> 
> Everytime the adsl router restarts the ethernet card hangs up in windows 10.
> 
> I have to then disable and re-enable it in device manager to get it to work again.
> 
> Anyone else have this problem ?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hi bcuz007

Try getting the latest updates for your Ethernet card.
My sound card was doing the same thing, every restart I would have to save my settings.

The fix I found was going into sleep mode after saving my settings. This seemed to permanently fix the issue.


----------



## scorpgul

So guys I just did a fresh install of Windows 10 pro 64 Bit and Windows has finished doing its updates. Do I need to download anything from Sabertooth's download section on Asus website?

I already have the 2104 BIOS on the motherboard.

There is no Windows 10 64 Bit section.

The following is what I see under Windows 8.1 64 Bit:

*Chipset:*

Version 9.5.10.1658
Management Engine Interface V9.5.10.1658 for Windows Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).(1.5M)
File Size: 57.94 MBytes
2013/10/11

Version 9.4.0.1026
Intel Chipset Driver V9.4.0.1026 for Windows Win8.1 32bit & Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).
File Size: 7.28 MBytes
2013/09/25

*LAN*

Version 18.5.54.0
Intel LAN Driver V18.5.54.0 for Windows Win8.1 32bit & Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).
File Size: 86.96 MBytes
2013/09/30

*SATA*

Version 4.2.40.2357
Intel Smart Connect Technology Software V4.2.40.2357 for Windows 8.1 32bit & 64bit.
File Size: 21.86 MBytes
2013/10/16

Version 12.8.0.1016
Intel AHCI/RAID Driver Path for Windows Win8.1 32bit & Win8.1 64bit.
Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver software V12.8.0.1016 for Windows Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).
Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver software V12.8.0.1016 for Windows Win8.1 32bit---(WHQL).
File Size: 17.75 MBytes
2013/09/30

They are all from 2 years ago and I don't want to download them if they are not needed.

Thanks


----------



## p33k

What is the setting to disable the onboard graphics on the Z77 sabertooth? I believe I have it done correctly but WIn10 still detects it and when I try to update my AMD gfx drivers it turns it on even though I have it disabled. I am running the newest bios.


----------



## DI360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> What is the setting to disable the onboard graphics on the Z77 sabertooth? I believe I have it done correctly but WIn10 still detects it and when I try to update my AMD gfx drivers it turns it on even though I have it disabled. I am running the newest bios.


----------



## falcon2099

Perusing many of the [Official] motherboard threads (Asus included) you come across some pretty horrendous horror stories relating to RMA service (lost packages, damaged products, etc).

While swapping out my AIO CPU cooler to my new H100i when I was all done and restarted, I had a bit of a problem... PC was DOA... Power would come on, fans spin up but no joy. Troubleshooting included the usual... disconnecting/reconnecting everything, using known good components but still nothing.

This resulted me in saying a quiet prayer of thanks for my Sabertooth's 5yr warranty (it had just turned 3 yrs old) and I started the RMA process. I am happy to say that from the date I shipped the board to Asus's depot (no cross border needed as Asus has a depot right in Ontario) it only took a total of 11 days for a new board (refurbished, I'm sure... but thats ok) to be returned to me.

Bottom line: Great RMA service, awesome warranty and a very satisfied Asus customer who will keep buying.

Does anyone know if my new board inherits the original warranty (2yrs left) or if it resets it?? I'm pretty sure it simply inherits the original, but you never know.


----------



## jjkusaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2099*
> 
> Does anyone know if my new board inherits the original warranty (2yrs left) or if it resets it?? I'm pretty sure it simply inherits the original, but you never know.


No...per the ASUS website:
Quote:


> Any products and or components repaired or replaced by ASUS will be under warranty for the remaining period of warranty or for no less than 3 months.


http://www.asus.com/us/support/Article/678/

Also, sorry if I negative "rep" you ... mistook it for the reply button.


----------



## mcdader

What Bios are you using to see IGPU setttings?

I am using latest and no longer have IGPU settings anyplace. I have tried flashing bios's back as far as it would let me. i5 3570k. I would like to utilize the IGPU for 3D scanning.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

recently I am having issues with my Z77 Sabertooth.
In my sig below you will see what my cooling is like. Temps on idle is around 34c average, load 52c average.

Last week i notice my idle temps hovering around 58c. Load is the 70c range. Now this is not good. I had Intel replace my CPU and still showing the issue.
I have turned off turbo and dropped my OC back to stock 3.5Ghz just to keep temps down.

I contact Asus, which were the tech guys were dumb as cow poop. They went on say over and over again my warranty was over as it is 3 year warranty.
Kept telling them Sabertooth board are 5 years, states on box and website. They say there system tells them what is correct.

The bios I have is 2104, which is the last one they did.
Asus was no help, as techs didnt not know how to get the problem solved. They do not have a replacement as there are out of stock for at least 3 weeks.

I am not sure what can be done, or if there is an issues that can be fixed? Never seen this happen before?


----------



## kizwan

I doubt the motherboard is the problem causing CPU temp to increase. Even though 70C load temp is high, it still in good range. Have you did a basic troubleshooting like what was running in the background when you saw the high idle & load temp? And also what was the reported CPU frequency when you saw the high idle temp? Also did you tried re-seat the CPU cooler? If after re-seating the CPU cooler get the temp down again, probably the thermal paste that you're using degraded quickly causing the temp to increase. Try using different thermal paste if this is the case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It has to be the mobo, as I replaced the CPU and the problem is still there.
The higher temps just showed all of a sudden.
I can get close to 80c in some situation if I even use Turbo which is 3.9Ghz.
At 4.2Ghz I hit above 80c.
70c is only on stock 3.5Ghz, which is just too high.

I was no higher than 58c at 4.2Ghz, that is a big difference.


----------



## SuperToast

Is it possible to set this board up to Wake-on-LAN from a shutdown state? I've been trying to get this working for awhile when I have the time.

The thing is, I can get it to boot from a magic packet so long as the turbo fans are still running after shutting down. Once they stop, it seems that the packets don't work anymore. The behavior is the same for the integrated LAN card and the Intel Gigabit CT desktop adapter card I've tried using.

Maybe there are settings I've missed, in BIOS or Device Manager? Any ideas?


----------



## kizwan

Did the LED indicator on the ethernet port remain lit after shutdown?


----------



## SuperToast

I'll double check when I get home today, but it does stay lit if I recall correctly - even after power to the cool down fans is cut after the timeout.


----------



## EricM280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2099*
> 
> Perusing many of the [Official] motherboard threads (Asus included) you come across some pretty horrendous horror stories relating to RMA service (lost packages, damaged products, etc).
> 
> While swapping out my AIO CPU cooler to my new H100i when I was all done and restarted, I had a bit of a problem... PC was DOA... Power would come on, fans spin up but no joy. Troubleshooting included the usual... disconnecting/reconnecting everything, using known good components but still nothing.
> 
> This resulted me in saying a quiet prayer of thanks for my Sabertooth's 5yr warranty (it had just turned 3 yrs old) and I started the RMA process. I am happy to say that from the date I shipped the board to Asus's depot (no cross border needed as Asus has a depot right in Ontario) it only took a total of 11 days for a new board (refurbished, I'm sure... but thats ok) to be returned to me.
> 
> Bottom line: Great RMA service, awesome warranty and a very satisfied Asus customer who will keep buying.
> 
> Does anyone know if my new board inherits the original warranty (2yrs left) or if it resets it?? I'm pretty sure it simply inherits the original, but you never know.


Does anyone else happen to know what could cause this situation? I currently have the same problem but it was after I installed a H100iGtx

I have done the following

1. Complete strip down out of case, installing each piece one by one
2. Unmounted proc, cleaned, checked both proc and socket (no bent pins), remounted.
3. All cables checked.
4. CMOS clear (when that didn't work I updated BIOS also)
5. Different RAM, different configuration
6. Video card in different PCI-E slots
7. No video card, just on-board graphics. At this point, for a few days, i was able to post and boot fine. But i would get the horizontal colored lines on my monitor, but now this won't even post anymore.
8. Had power supply tested, video card tested. (both function properly)
9. New video cables, both DVI and HDMI, no go
10. *FACE to DESK*

Any chance its NOT the motherboard somehow? Board is way past its warranty time. Its just odd to me because everything that the board powers, turns on. Fans, pump. Minus my USB keyboard and other USB devices not plugged into board USB headers.

Is this time time where i finally give up hope? Thanks guys!


----------



## masychefx2

Hi I just bought this motherboard


----------



## Szarky

Will I have any problem with installation W10 when I install 2x Samsung 850 EVO 250 and make it in RAID 0? Or installation will see SSD RAID as normal drive?
I also want to RAID 2x WD Black 1TB - those because i want to have 5 year warranty. Will it works?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> Will I have any problem with installation W10 when I install 2x Samsung 850 EVO 250 and make it in RAID 0? Or installation will see SSD RAID as normal drive?
> I also want to RAID 2x WD Black 1TB - those because i want to have 5 year warranty. Will it works?


NO & YES for the questions respectively. What RAID have to do with 5 years warranty?


----------



## Szarky

I want to replace my Seagate storage raid to WD black raid 0, and I want to install OS on raided 0 Evo 850.
I've read that some people had problems with installing OS on their raid 0 - installation didn't seen the drive. Or its only fault of ex. AMD chipset Mobo?


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> I want to replace my Seagate storage raid to WD black raid 0, and I want to install OS on raided 0 Evo 850.
> I've read that some people had problems with installing OS on their raid 0 - installation didn't seen the drive. Or its only fault of ex. AMD chipset Mobo?


For storage I suggest to not using RAID 0 because if one drive failed, all data will loss. If only two drives, you should choose RAID 1.

For OS, Win 10 should be able to see the raid 0 drive. I don't know about AMD chipset issue but one should be able to copy the SATA RAID drivers to the USB drive & load the drivers during Win 10 installation for the setup to see the raid 0 drive.


----------



## clubber_lang

Just wanted to say that I have had a little over 2.5yrs on my Z77 sabertooth with an oc 2600K @ 4.5 , and it's still running like a Swiss watch. Not one hiccup in all that time. I may upgrade again in the next year or two , but for right now I'll keeping running it. Best damn MB I've ever owned.


----------



## SuperToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperToast*
> 
> I'll double check when I get home today, but it does stay lit if I recall correctly - even after power to the cool down fans is cut after the timeout.


Just a small followup - I was able to remotely boot just past the 10-minute mark when the fans stopped, but it didn't work when I waited for 25 minutes. In both cases, the ether net port's LED is still lit when the PC is powered off. Something's blocking the packets in between that time.


----------



## kizwan

Intel LAN do have software that usually have a lot of settings you can mess with. Download & install the software for your Intel LAN. Probably there's settings in the software for wake on lan.


----------



## kizwan

Regarding Wake on LAN. This was taken from readme.txt file found in Intel drivers folder.

Code:



Code:


Power Management and System Wake
================================

Not all systems support every wake setting. There may be BIOS or Operating
System settings that need to be enabled for your system to wake up. In 
particular, this is true for Wake from S5 (also referred to as Wake from power off).

Microsoft Windows 7 and Windows Server 2008 R2 do not support Wake on 
directed packet. Systems with these operating systems will not wake on a 
ping or other directed packet.

System does not wake when expected
----------------------------------
Under Microsoft Windows 7 or Windows Server 2008 R2, the system may not wake 
when sent an ARP packet. Forcing your system into Home Networking mode
(instead of work or public mode) will resolve the issue. You can set the 
network mode during install or from the Networking Control Panel.
However, if the network is disconnected and reconnected, and a DHCP server
is not available or if there is no default gateway defined, it appears to 
the operating system that the network is undefined and the OS will reset 
it to public.

Under Microsoft Windows 8 or Windows Server 2012, the system may not wake even 
though Wake on LAN settings are enabled. Disabling Fast Startup in the 
operating system should resolve the issue.

System does not wake on link
----------------------------
On a driver-only installation, if you change 'Wake on Link Settings' to 
Forced and change 'Wake on Magic Packet' and 'Wake on Pattern Match' to Disabled, 
the system may not wake up when expected. In order to "Wake on Link" 
successfully, check the Power Management tab and make sure that "Allow 
this device to wake the computer" is checked.  You may also need to change
'Wake on Magic Packet' or 'Wake on Pattern Match' to Enabled.

On Microsoft* Windows* 7, or later, you must enable Wake on Magic Packet or 
Wake on Pattern Match for Wake on Link to function properly.

Directed Packets may not wake the system
----------------------------------------
On some systems, quad port server adapters may not wake when 
configured to wake on directed packet. If you experience problems 
waking on directed packets, you must configure the adapter to 
use Magic Packets*.

BTW, when you open the Intel network adapter properties in Device Manager, did you see "Wake on LAN" settings in "Power Management" tab? If you still having problem with Wake on LAN, download network scanner, e.g. netscan (network scanner) or similar software, then scan your network. See whether if it can detect your PC (target) mac address.


----------



## Sapp

Greetings.
There are those who do not put the cooler 2 (40mm) on the board?
After 3 years of work, they began to make noise, and I had them removed. The temperature that is the same with them without them (in the programe Thermal Radar.)


----------



## blazinted

Anyone have any advice on getting Windows 10 to boot from a pcie m.2 drive?
Addonics ADM2PX4 and Samsung XP941

Thanks


----------



## Skabboz

So guys, which drivers are you using with W10? I'm going to install W10, but the LAN,USB, stable Chipset and Intel SATA drivers are still missing..
Can anyone help? Thanks


----------



## Dee Neyed

Windows 10 users...any of you have issues with the ntoskrnl.exe consuming memory? I've read that there has been a memory leak and I've tried the suggestions listed here http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/windows-10-how-fix-system-ntoskrnl-exe-memory-leak-high-cpu-usage-1514316 with no real luck. It'll just grow and grow consuming a gb or more at times, until I restart.

I'm leaning towards the network drivers of the z77 sabertooth board though. It's the only one I can't really account for and I'm having issues with resolving DNS from my router as well, after upgrading from Windows 7. I'm currently using the standard Windows driver for reference. I'm just curious if anyone else is experiencing this with this mobo? Thanks.


----------



## MoonScryer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dee Neyed*
> 
> I'm leaning towards the network drivers of the z77 sabertooth board though. It's the only one I can't really account for and I'm having issues with resolving DNS from my router as well, after upgrading from Windows 7. I'm currently using the standard Windows driver for reference. I'm just curious if anyone else is experiencing this with this mobo? Thanks.


I can't help with the ntoskernel growth issue, but the DNS issues I also had. I got the network driver from Intel' website from Nov5th and the issue seems to have abated.

https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/47549/Intel-82579-Gigabit-Ethernet-Controller


----------



## StooBie

Can anyone tell me the CMOS battery type? I need to change it as my BIOS keeps resetting.

Thanks


----------



## jjkusaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StooBie*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the CMOS battery type? I need to change it as my BIOS keeps resetting.
> 
> Thanks


CR2032


----------



## StooBie

Great! Thanks.


----------



## BrandenLucero

i bought some Ballistix Tactical Tracer (the one with the fans lights) rated for 1866 | 9-9-9-27 @ 1.5v. i used the XMP profile setting and it automatically detected everything as should, but i can't get these to run at their intended speed without my PC going into an on | off loop. they will run perfectly fine @ 1600, boot to the desktop @ 1800 and then continue to do the on | off loop when i either restart or shut down the PC.


----------



## navit

I have the same Ram and I set the speed manually with no problems. maybe try that over the XMP Profile.


----------



## BrandenLucero

i did it manual too and not go, so i started taking out and putting sticks into different slots.

slots 1 and 3 run fine at xmp
slots 1, 2, 3 run fine at xmp
slots 1, 2, 3, 4 will not post

took the stick out of slot 4 and put it in slot 2: posts just fine
slots 1, 2, and 4 post just fine.
slots 1, 3, and 4 post just fine.

it seems that if i add a 4th stick, it will not post, but it'll post just fine with 3 sticks installed. all the ram slots work fine and all the memory sticks are fine.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrandenLucero*
> 
> i did it manual too and not go, so i started taking out and putting sticks into different slots.
> 
> slots 1 and 3 run fine at xmp
> slots 1, 2, 3 run fine at xmp
> slots 1, 2, 3, 4 will not post
> 
> took the stick out of slot 4 and put it in slot 2: posts just fine
> slots 1, 2, and 4 post just fine.
> slots 1, 3, and 4 post just fine.
> 
> it seems that if i add a 4th stick, it will not post, but it'll post just fine with 3 sticks installed. all the ram slots work fine and all the memory sticks are fine.


Came here for a different reason, I have Gskill 2400Mhz running at 2200Mhz (now 1600..will get to why in a bit) I had to up my VSSCA voltage a tad.
I followed the written guide of this, but obviously 2200Mhz after finding out my i5-3570k was incapable of running 2400 no mater what.
http://rog.asus.com/305032014/overclocking/video-guide-how-to-overclock-to-2800mhz-ddr3-with-a-maximus-vi-motherboard/
hope this helps.
I looked up your sticks are you aiming for 8GBx4 or 8GBx2 ? from my findings, getting Oc'd 8GBx4 is like winning the silicone lottery. its all about the luck in the batch you get. Also people on i7s seem to be able to just run the XMP with no further modifications, it seems the IMC on i5 is crap compared to the ones in the i7s BUT, I'm talking 2400, it seems 1866-2133 is doable on i5s with minor bios tweaks.

Onto why I'm here.
Can anyone thats OC'd their i5-3570K on this mobo report if they got Whea Errors after 12hrs of no errors in Prime95?
trying to rule out what it can be. from some google hits people on non-Asus Z77 mobos have less cases of WHEA errors.
Currently testing 4.5GHZ @ 1.4v !! feels a bit overkill for 45x Prime runs fine, very hot, near 92c, only started for 5mins and stopped dont like the temp, my Whea errors seem more connected to Idle. So I've left my PC at Idle while im (here) at work.
think I should post bios screenshots for more aid when I get back.

(Im using offset, no I would not risk leaving it at 1.4v unattended, haha. offset +0.095 !)


----------



## peddle

Guys I bought a gtx970 g1 gaming from gigabyte Friday and I couldn't get it to show any video using my z77. I am using 8gb ram and I have 850w psu. My cpu is i7 3770k. Anybody know if this card is not compatible with this board?


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peddle*
> 
> Guys I bought a gtx970 g1 gaming from gigabyte Friday and I couldn't get it to show any video using my z77. I am using 8gb ram and I have 850w psu. My cpu is i7 3770k. Anybody know if this card is not compatible with this board?


have you tried pulling it back out and reseating it? could be just not in the PCIe slot right.

Im on Z77 with a R9 390 (newer than gtx 970) and it works fine.

either that or are you making sure to plug in the video cable (HDMI or Display port) into the Video card's ports and not motherboard. after you add a card the motherboard switches over to sending video out the video card so the ports on the motherboard get disabled.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Evening all, was running this rig for a while now on and off with new games and recently was asked to build a new gaming pc for a friend and that got me back into overclocking and seeing how far i could push things. His could only go around 4.6Ghz with a newer age 1151 i5 6600K and z170a MSI SLI Plus mobo. After tweaking his I decided to revive this machine and see about overclocking things still along the lines of this thread though with some efforts on my part as well. I've validated at 4.8Ghz though it wasn't stable running anything from Cinebench, Intel Burn test, Prime95 though would open to the desktop to let me validate. After some fun i decided to just down play things and shoot for 4.7 stable and achieved it. 

Mindful that I am running a water-cooled rig that I recently also revived with new tubing and seals to be sure.


----------



## HyeVltg3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7ha7a5ian*
> 
> Evening all, was running this rig for a while now on and off with new games and recently was asked to build a new gaming pc for a friend and that got me back into overclocking and seeing how far i could push things. His could only go around 4.6Ghz with a newer age 1151 i5 6600K and z170a MSI SLI Plus mobo. After tweaking his I decided to revive this machine and see about overclocking things still along the lines of this thread though with some efforts on my part as well. I've validated at 4.8Ghz though it wasn't stable running anything from Cinebench, Intel Burn test, Prime95 though would open to the desktop to let me validate. After some fun i decided to just down play things and shoot for 4.7 stable and achieved it.
> 
> Mindful that I am running a water-cooled rig that I recently also revived with new tubing and seals to be sure.


Can I just state that I find you weird that you have everything water-cooled and only now thinking about Overclocking, I assumed everyone and their grandma would OC when they went the water-cooling route, at the least to the average OC of the respective CPU. I would have began OC-ing on the first day my WC build was leak tested and fine.

I dont understand the point of the post.
have you run Prime95 12hrs? you should have had that in you CPUZ screenshot, its too easy to just OC and claim the clock without showing P95 ran ok for 12hrs.
Plus would love to see people adding in their Event Viewer windows too, would love to see if its really stable or just running stable, no BSODs, but a ton of WHEA errors.

I hope I dont come off angry or bitter, just recently found out my 3570k's OC wall is about x42-x43, going to mention that before someone points it out. no I'm not bringing those tears here, I'm just stating, just posting the CPUZ isnt very much convincing.


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

6 Hours fine for now? I'd have more time if it were the weekend. In the beginning I followed this thread and was happy with 4.5ghz with gaming. Then recently I was asked to build a machine for a friend and decided to see how much further I might achieve for my own machine.


----------



## radar54

I originally went with water (H-100) simply because I did not like or want to have a brick (huge) of an air cooler hanging perpendicular to my mobo. I did not want to worry that it might crack my new Sabertooth mobo. I do OC a little, but my main concern was the have air coolers.


----------



## asuman1179

what bios version folks running with windows 10? Going to do a fresh install soon.


----------



## peddle

Guys I've had something weird happen today.....My cpu multiplier is only going to 8. but it's designed for 16-39.

I have i7 3770k with sabertooth z77 and 850 w psu. also, gtx 970. This only started happening yesterday. any changes I make in bios don't fix it.....

Anybody see this?

Thanks guys


----------



## jktmas

ended up finding a use for my sabertooth board, using it for a home NAS.
only downfall is that my dimm furthest from the CPU has gone bad, there appears to be no pin damage, and all of the solder points on the back of the motherboard look good
I suppose this is fair, and I had about 8 different sets of ram, and 4 different CPU's over the last few years.


Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!


----------



## DI360

Anyone having trouble with sound cards? SBZ,Xonar, Phoebus my friend is having problems with all of them, my SBZ works well.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi i wanted to say i am a proud owner of this motherboard and it's been rock solid for few years. Out of sheer stupidity i didn't read the manual closely when i first built it but i did the right thing. I never had problems until one day i wanted to re-read my manual and i noticed it has a 6GB sata and a 3.0 sata plug. I noticed i have my 6 gb plugged in but i can't remember what port it's plugged to. I have a SSD and Hard Drive and this is the only cable i have plugged for my 6gb sata drive. I will take it apart later and check the back and see if it's in my SSD. Is it ok to have 6gb for SSD? I ain't trying to go Raid or anything. I just want it to be fast. I just wanted to be sure i have the proper speed plugged in. In fact i never had problems anyways lol. Thanks anyways.

How does everyone think of the new ASUS SABERTOOTH Z170 MARK? I always wanted to upgrade but i don't feel the need to because i have a strong running Desktop and it's been a solid motherboard. I plan to keep my motherboard for a long time. I just want to be able to use more extra features. Anyhow.. thanks for checking my post.









Update: I took it apart and it turns out i have everything plugged right and the 6gb sata is in my SSD. Guess i don't have to worry about it. I guess that's what i get for not remembering i did plug in the right port or not. Anyhow what is the difference between Z710 and Z77? They seem to have a bit same specs. I know different processor and ram though. Enlighten me anyone?


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Update: I took it apart and it turns out i have everything plugged right and the 6gb sata is in my SSD. Guess i don't have to worry about it. I guess that's what i get for not remembering i did plug in the right port or not. Anyhow what is the difference between Z710 and Z77? They seem to have a bit same specs. I know different processor and ram though. Enlighten me anyone?


The Z170 board is newer and has a newer chipset, meaning it will support newer technologies, but require that you upgrade your CPU and RAM, for MOST people, and nice Sandy / IVY chip will be plenty, and Skylake isn't much of an upgrade. If you really were hitting a bottleneck with your CPU, I would recommend upgrading to LGA 2011 / X99 over Skylake / Z170 because you can get faster more powerful processors, and you can usually pick up used xeon server processors pretty cheap. This was my solution, and I got an 8 core with hyper threading (16 Threads) for $120 shipped, which is less than the price of a skylake i3


----------



## CoreyL4

Picked up a z77 sabertooth for $70 on reddit.

Any tips or tricks I should know about? Pairing it with a free 2500k I got on reddit too lol.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> Picked up a z77 sabertooth for $70 on reddit.
> 
> Any tips or tricks I should know about? Pairing it with a free 2500k I got on reddit too lol.


Not really a tip or trick, but if they're both in working condition then you got a pretty darn good steal.

as far as advise, i would recommend blowing out underneath the thermal armor or even taking it off and cleaning it, you never know what kind of hell could be living under there.


----------



## CoreyL4

So I am trying to update the bios. Downloaded the file on a usb. I am in ez flash and when I go to select the file the message pops up saying this is not a bios file????


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> So I am trying to update the bios. Downloaded the file on a usb. I am in ez flash and when I go to select the file the message pops up saying this is not a bios file????


I remember that it comes in a zip, and what I always did was put the zip file and the extracted file onto the flash drive, and let it update off of whatever one showed up.


----------



## CoreyL4

Did not work for me.


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> Did not work for me.


At least post screenshot of the content of the usb drive. And make sure the usb drive is FAT16 or FAT32.


----------



## CoreyL4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> At least post screenshot of the content of the usb drive. And make sure the usb drive is FAT16 or FAT32.


Not home, but it was on a FAT32 formatted drive with the bios file on it named Z77ST.CAP


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoreyL4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> At least post screenshot of the content of the usb drive. And make sure the usb drive is FAT16 or FAT32.
> 
> 
> 
> Not home, but it was on a FAT32 formatted drive with the bios file on it named Z77ST.CAP
Click to expand...

Ok. Post screenshot later.

Follow up questions:-
- Is there more than one partition on the usb drive?
- Current BIOS version?
- New BIOS version you want to update to?
- Screenshot of the EZ Flash window (there's hotkey for taking screenshot).


----------



## Zipping

Hi, hopefully someone here can help me.

I have now had this motherboard for 4 years. Recently, it began to make an error at boot up. As soon as i boot up, it will start to beep, 6 short beeps - then reboot and do the same again. After perhaps 10-15 tries i get lucky and it starts normal. I have had the same setup for 4 years, have not changed anything. What does the 6 beeps mean and does anyone know a solution?


----------



## 7ha7a5ian

Notice any led indicators lighting up around the mobo? While booting press and hold the reset button next to the power button on your pc.


----------



## Zipping

Thanks for your reply.

I tried the various things he did in the video, unfortunately it did not help much.
Here's a little video of what happens. In this clip it starts directly after 6 beeps, usually it restarts first.





Unfortunately I may have to send it in for repair and see what they say to it.


----------



## jktmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zipping*
> 
> Hi, hopefully someone here can help me.
> 
> I have now had this motherboard for 4 years. Recently, it began to make an error at boot up. As soon as i boot up, it will start to beep, 6 short beeps - then reboot and do the same again. After perhaps 10-15 tries i get lucky and it starts normal. I have had the same setup for 4 years, have not changed anything. What does the 6 beeps mean and does anyone know a solution?


I know it sounds ridiculous, but try it with no keyboard / mouse / input devices plugged in.


----------



## PinzaC55

Hi everybody, I am building a rig for a pal and I have run into a bit of a problem. The core components are - ASUS Sabretooth Z77, i7-2600 CPU, Crucial M500 240 GB SSD, 16GB (4 x 4) Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz RAM and the OS is Windows 7 Pro 64 bit. When I boot up it very quickly shows the ASUS full logo and F1/F2 options then it goes to a black screen; the only way to get Windows to start is by pressing the reset button, when it starts normally.
I am guessing this might be due to some BIOS setting but I loaded optimised defaults shortly after installing Windows and the only setting I have changed is to raise the RAM setting from 1333 to 1600,
Does anyone have any experience with this problem ?


----------



## starky114

Can anyone help me i have a sabertooth z77 mother board running a i5 cpu with 750 psu and just bought a new graphics card asus strix 99 390 but cant get it to work, When its plugged in the red vga light on MB stays on a nothing happens but the old card works fine.. Any suggestion on what to do or do i need a different card??


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starky114*
> 
> Can anyone help me i have a sabertooth z77 mother board running a i5 cpu with 750 psu and just bought a new graphics card asus strix 99 390 but cant get it to work, When its plugged in the red vga light on MB stays on a nothing happens but the old card works fine.. Any suggestion on what to do or do i need a different card??


Try this. Boot with the old card, enter BIOS & disable Fastboot. Then shutdown & put the 390 card back. Try boot again.


----------



## starky114

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Try this. Boot with the old card, enter BIOS & disable Fastboot. Then shutdown & put the 390 card back. Try boot again.


tried it but still nothing


----------



## kizwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starky114*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Try this. Boot with the old card, enter BIOS & disable Fastboot. Then shutdown & put the 390 card back. Try boot again.
> 
> 
> 
> tried it but still nothing
Click to expand...

Then the card is faulty. Send it back.


----------



## starky114

But had the card put into aother tower and it booted first time.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starky114*
> 
> But had the card put into aother tower and it booted first time.


Possibly a silly question, but are you powering the card correctly?
Also, what is the old card?


----------



## Festersquest

I could use some advice regarding the sound being too low with this motherboard. I don't have a sound card & only use Sennheiser 598 headphones through this soundbar that came with my monitor (u2412m). The issue is that I can barely hear anything. I have to turn the speaker volume all the way up to get to medium.

Should I get a sound card or is there something else I should try? The system sound is all the way up.

Oh, I tried plugging the headphones directly into the Fractal R4 case and that didn't do much better.


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## kizwan

Try enable "Loudness Equalization" in the Enhancement tab. (Right-click the speaker icon in notification area & choose Playback Device. Then select the playback device & click Properties button.)

Also make sure you didn't forget to turn up the volume in the monitor OSD.


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## Festersquest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Try enable "Loudness Equalization" in the Enhancement tab. (Right-click the speaker icon in notification area & choose Playback Device. Then select the playback device & click Properties button.)
> 
> Also make sure you didn't forget to turn up the volume in the monitor OSD.


Thank you. I just enabled the loudness equalization and that did help.
I don't have an OSD for the sound though.

I'm using the drivers that windows 7 found & installed. I didn't install the realtek drivers. I mean, I did a while back, but it didn't do anything noticeable so I just used the basic drivers.

Maybe I should just get a sound card?


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## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Festersquest*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kizwan*
> 
> Try enable "Loudness Equalization" in the Enhancement tab. (Right-click the speaker icon in notification area & choose Playback Device. Then select the playback device & click Properties button.)
> 
> Also make sure you didn't forget to turn up the volume in the monitor OSD.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I just enabled the loudness equalization and that did help.
> I don't have an OSD for the sound though.
> 
> I'm using the drivers that windows 7 found & installed. I didn't install the realtek drivers. I mean, I did a while back, but it didn't do anything noticeable so I just used the basic drivers.
> 
> Maybe I should just get a sound card?
Click to expand...

As far as I remember the built-in audio is fine. I recommend downloading the drivers from the webpage, it may fix your issue without that large of a footprint on your system. Running the UI is optional, you can simply call it on-demand.


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## Festersquest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> As far as I remember the built-in audio is fine. I recommend downloading the drivers from the webpage, it may fix your issue without that large of a footprint on your system. Running the UI is optional, you can simply call it on-demand.


Thanks, I'll give it a try again and see if there is anything I can tinker with. If not, I'll just pick up an Asus Sonar DGX 5.1 pcie card. Couldn't hurt.


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## Festersquest

My Corsair 8GB of RAM turns out to be damaged, based on the memtest I performed. I'm looking to upgrade to two 8GB sticks of memory. Can someone recommend a memory that will work with this motherboard?


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## Tommy92

Hi Guys, I am having crashing issues with my PC at the moment so was just wondering if this looks up to date.

OS: Windows 10 pro
Bios ver: 2104 x64
Build date: 08/13/2013
EC ver: MBEC-Z77-0131
ME ver: 8.1.0.1248

Do I need to update anything or does this look about right?

Tom


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## NaciremaDiputs

I use this kit in mine, but there are several Corsair kits you could choose if you prefer them over G Skill. G Skill can usually save you a few bucks over Corsair without giving up any performance or reliability though. Adata, Crucial and a few other brands are all really good as well, but I have less experience with them and don't know much beyond what I've read in reviews.

G.SKILL F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL(XMP) 16GB ( 4x 4GB )

Here is a link to the ASUS product support page for the mobo though. There are 3 PDF links on this page that show all the kits that have been tested on the board. Other kits can work, but you might have to play with the timings and voltage to get them to run stable at the speeds you want. I would recommend sticking to kits on these lists. In addition to that I would also recommend you stick to kits that are rated for 1.5v instead of 1.65v. They tend to run cooler and give more overhead for overclocking.

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/HelpDesk_QVL/


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## [email protected]

I have a question regarding with this motherboard. For some reason every time i boot my pc it keeps asking me to go into bios and i wondered why cuz at first it was telling me i have a bad rpm fan. I thought maybe it was a minor thing. So what i did was shut down and find the fan port i used and i plugged it into a different fan port and it turns out the same error. So i moved my header plug from my Corsair self sealed cooler into the cpu fan port then tried a different fan to see which ports were bad. So it turns out the fan itself is really bad with RPM. So i decided to use a different fan i had from my older cases and they work fine. So i figured out it was a bad fan. I dunno why i moved the Corsair Cooler plug back into CPU 1 Fan it's supposed to be in the CPU fan 2.

So upon reboot it always asks me to get in bios without any error and it's annoying. Not to mention my dates and time and months are wrong when i enter the desktop i keep changing it to 2017 jan. This happens every single time when i boot into my windows desktop and it tells me i have to change the date and month and time. Just windows not bios. Making sure you don't get confused. What gives? Does this mean i need to replace the CMOS battery? Is it dying or my motherboard got a bit of short or what? Advice please..

Should i move the plug from my CPU 1 Fan back to 2nd and order a new fan? As for the battery should i get a new one or just save my profile in bios and pull the battery out and put it back and see if that fixes things after i set everything right and restart one more time? I need suggestions.. thanks.

Hope this isn't all confusing. I will be more detailed as soon i find my manual.









Update: Still does the same thing no matter what upon reboot. I have to end up in bios and leave then go to desktop and change time of date. I am so frustrated. I ran for viruses and there is NONE. Got to be something tied to my motherboard. I need help here.

UPDATE:

Turns out i may have a bad battery and now i am peeved. I have to take the whole motherboard out and replace the armor and find the battery. Jeez why is there a design flaw in this one? Battery is covered! What is ASUS thinking?! Glad i found this.. 




Bad thing about this motherboard is the design flaw. No access to the battery to reset it. You'd have to take out the motherboard and unscrew the stuff behind the motherboard and then replace the battery. What a horrible hassle and headache to do that. I have half a mind to just leave the armor off.


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## [email protected]

I resolved the issue by realizing it was just a bad fan. I also have another question here. Does anyone know how to overclock? How do i get this CPU to overclock on it's own without manual tweaking.


----------



## Eze2kiel




----------



## retoix

Ok guys! I really got a hard case.

After moving my PC I tried to start it as it was running at the old apartment.
I didn't start properly. So I decided to reset the BIOS.

System:

PSU: bequiet 680W
MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth Z77 BIOS Rev. 2104
CPU: Intel i7 3770k
PCIE1: GTX 670
PCIE2: GTX 670
RAM: 32GB Vegenance
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro

SATA Mode AHCI
CSM disabled (UEFI only)
Monitor is connected over iGPU with HDMI.
Hyper-Threading and Virtualization Technology disabled
ASUS Enchantment MultiCored option disabled
Rapid Start Technology disable
No OC set.

After doing that I still couldn't manage to boot into a SATA device.
I tried various things. Here are the important issues and going-ons.

Only USB connected
1. If I only connect a bootable USB stick. (Linux or Windows) I'm able to boot into it.

One SATA device connected and Bootable USB Stick
2. If I only connect the SSD with my Windows 10 Partition on it. It will be recognized in the BIOS but it will fall into a boot loop if I try to boot from the SSD. (I can see that it tries to start up the Windows repair)
2.1 Booting from USB Stick works till OS initializes then reboots. on a Linux distro (Repair Boot Stick) it does that at the point it tries to mount the discs.
2.2 I once managed to boot the Linux distro with the SATA device connected and it also was recognized by Linux. Unfortunately I wasn't able to rebuild that situation
2.3 Any other SATA device unlike the SSD with Windows 10 will cause a boot loop were I'm not even able to get into the BIOS.

Two SATA device connected
3. The Motherboard falls into a boot loop. Not even able to get into BIOS.

UPDATE:

After I managed to get into Ubuntu with the SSD connected. I saw the bootflag was missing at that disc. Checked the bootflag and now I got a new error. After restarting PC and trying to boot from SSD I got this Windows Error.

0xC000000F
/Boot/BCD

MBR contains errors. This can cause after HW changes....

I'm a IT system engineer and dealt with a lot of problems. But never saw something like that and I'm really desperate. I don't have any ideas left.

Please give me a tip for other options

Thanks


----------



## NaciremaDiputs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retoix*
> 
> Ok guys! I really got a hard case.
> 
> After moving my PC I tried to start it as it was running at the old apartment.
> I didn't start properly. So I decided to reset the BIOS.
> 
> System:
> 
> PSU: bequiet 680W
> MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth Z77 BIOS Rev. 2104
> CPU: Intel i7 3770k
> PCIE1: GTX 670
> PCIE2: GTX 670
> RAM: 32GB Vegenance
> SSD: Samsung 840 Pro
> 
> SATA Mode AHCI
> CSM disabled (UEFI only)
> Monitor is connected over iGPU with HDMI.
> Hyper-Threading and Virtualization Technology disabled
> ASUS Enchantment MultiCored option disabled
> Rapid Start Technology disable
> No OC set.
> 
> After doing that I still couldn't manage to boot into a SATA device.
> I tried various things. Here are the important issues and going-ons.
> 
> Only USB connected
> 1. If I only connect a bootable USB stick. (Linux or Windows) I'm able to boot into it.
> 
> One SATA device connected and Bootable USB Stick
> 2. If I only connect the SSD with my Windows 10 Partition on it. It will be recognized in the BIOS but it will fall into a boot loop if I try to boot from the SSD. (I can see that it tries to start up the Windows repair)
> 2.1 Booting from USB Stick works till OS initializes then reboots. on a Linux distro (Repair Boot Stick) it does that at the point it tries to mount the discs.
> 2.2 I once managed to boot the Linux distro with the SATA device connected and it also was recognized by Linux. Unfortunately I wasn't able to rebuild that situation
> 2.3 Any other SATA device unlike the SSD with Windows 10 will cause a boot loop were I'm not even able to get into the BIOS.
> 
> Two SATA device connected
> 3. The Motherboard falls into a boot loop. Not even able to get into BIOS.
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> After I managed to get into Ubuntu with the SSD connected. I saw the bootflag was missing at that disc. Checked the bootflag and now I got a new error. After restarting PC and trying to boot from SSD I got this Windows Error.
> 
> 0xC000000F
> /Boot/BCD
> 
> MBR contains errors. This can cause after HW changes....
> 
> I'm a IT system engineer and dealt with a lot of problems. But never saw something like that and I'm really desperate. I don't have any ideas left.
> 
> Please give me a tip for other options
> 
> Thanks


Have you tried repairing your boot configuration data already?

You will need to boot in recovery mode and then run the following commands from a command prompt.

bootrec /fixMBR
bootrec /fixBoot
bootrec /rebuildBCD


----------



## retoix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NaciremaDiputs*
> 
> Have you tried repairing your boot configuration data already?
> 
> You will need to boot in recovery mode and then run the following commands from a command prompt.
> 
> bootrec /fixMBR
> bootrec /fixBoot
> bootrec /rebuildBCD


As I was not able to get into any mode of the OS I lately decided to delete the partitions on the Windows SSD.
So there no more partitions on that.

Even with a clean SSD booting from the Windows USB Stick is not possible.
I think those commands are performed on the SSD data? So no need to that without an SSD connected?

Thanks anyway


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## [email protected]

I need help overclocking this. I don't wanna mess with voltages and i wanna overclock this basic and simple and have it run on turbo mode too sync or not.

I set the CPU ratio to 44 and saved and reset and it didn't work at all... just set back to automatic. I even set the AI Tuner to manual. Maybe i am supposed to set it to XMP since i have an XMP memory ram but i don't wanna overclock my ram just my CPU.

I just don't know why i can't overclock it. I never once had a bios update cuz there is NOTHING wrong with my PC and it is stable. Don't fix what isn't broken.. Can someone help me here?


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## radar54

Hi All,

I'm having an issue with 1) my PC crashing (to a worthless Blue Screen that only says hardware error) and 2) my WiFi getting extremely slow after the PC crashes (speedtest runs at 2.5 Mbps when it normally runs at 50Mbps). It's a chicken and egg dilemma: is the WiFi partially crashing causing my PC to crash or is it my PC crashing causing my WiFi to crash. My PC does not have WiFi capability (but my phone and my wife's laptop do) and is connected via Ethernet to my wireless router. When I check the HDDs for SMART issues, it says my drives are all OK, as is the Samsung SSD (according to Samsung Magician)

*My system:*


Windows 10 Home x64
Sabertooth Z77
i7-3770K @4.2 MHz
16GB RAM (@XMP1)
Samsung 840 EVO (250GB) SSD - boot drive
1x WD Black 2TB HDD (My Documents)
2x HGST 4TB HDD (data storage)
1x Samsung 1TB HDD (data storage)

Any ideas how to troubleshoot this? And, why would my PC crashing take down my WiFi (since it is not connected via WiFi) *OR* why would my WiFi crashing cause my PC to Blue Screen?

thanks,
radar54


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## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I need help overclocking this. I don't wanna mess with voltages and i wanna overclock this basic and simple and have it run on turbo mode too sync or not.
> 
> I set the CPU ratio to 44 and saved and reset and it didn't work at all... just set back to automatic. I even set the AI Tuner to manual. Maybe i am supposed to set it to XMP since i have an XMP memory ram but i don't wanna overclock my ram just my CPU.
> 
> I just don't know why i can't overclock it. I never once had a bios update cuz there is NOTHING wrong with my PC and it is stable. Don't fix what isn't broken.. Can someone help me here?


Turns out i can set the ratio all together if i set it to XMP.. apparently i guess i will have to take that route but i think i will wait for response..


----------



## Clazman55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radar54*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm having an issue with 1) my PC crashing (to a worthless Blue Screen that only says hardware error) and 2) my WiFi getting extremely slow after the PC crashes (speedtest runs at 2.5 Mbps when it normally runs at 50Mbps). It's a chicken and egg dilemma: is the WiFi partially crashing causing my PC to crash or is it my PC crashing causing my WiFi to crash. My PC does not have WiFi capability (but my phone and my wife's laptop do) and is connected via Ethernet to my wireless router. When I check the HDDs for SMART issues, it says my drives are all OK, as is the Samsung SSD (according to Samsung Magician)
> 
> *My system:*
> 
> Windows 10 Home x64
> Sabertooth Z77
> i7-3770K @4.2 MHz
> 16GB RAM (@XMP1)
> Samsung 840 EVO (250GB) SSD - boot drive
> 1x WD Black 2TB HDD (My Documents)
> 2x HGST 4TB HDD (data storage)
> 1x Samsung 1TB HDD (data storage)
> Any ideas how to troubleshoot this? And, why would my PC crashing take down my WiFi (since it is not connected via WiFi) *OR* why would my WiFi crashing cause my PC to Blue Screen?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> radar54


Sounds like a bad NIC in your PC that slowly loses it's mind and blasts the router with packets leading to the slowdown.

So: 1. Does your Wifi still slow without your PC connected via ethernet to the router? If yes, diagnose router.

2. Is this random, or possibly connected to network traffic load? i.e. does this happen if you are streaming video, downloading a game, etc. May want to check your ethernet wire ends, could be a bad connection.

3. The ever cliche "drivers". Maybe the NIC installed Windows drivers. Check those.

4. Possible "phantom" adaptors in the control panel. Saw that once, weird.

5. Dont do any troubleshooting, go buy or order a PCIe gig NIC and a new ethernet cable(or one you know is good.) Install and connect.

6. If that doesnt solve the issue, it is likely a router issue. Ethernet side is slowly dying and eventually bringing the router down.


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## acidco

firstly hi. i have a problem with my mobo. it can be works with quadro k4200 and i want to sli it with 2 card. problem is i cant use sli on motherboard. do you know anything about this issue? quadro k4200 recommended for sli on this board.


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## Eze2kiel




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## 7ha7a5ian

Good Evening,

Is anyone having issues running a 3770K in 4k? Rise of the Tomb Raider shows GPU and CPU usage is all over the place in spots and that's normally signs of bottleneck.

Thanks, 7ha7as1an

Current Rig:
i7 3770K @ 4.8 GHz - 1.45V
Asus Sabertooth Z77 
16 GB GDDR3 @ 1800MHz
2 EVGA GTX 1080 Hybrids in SLi
Corsair AX850 PSU


----------



## [email protected]

I know this is pointless but I have been running this PC for more than 6 years and this motherboard has been running solid very well. However, I noticed the bios has never been updated at all. From experience, I have learned that if your system runs great and there are no problems you don't need to update bios? Is it really that recommended or should I leave it alone? I don't wanna brick my motherboard anyway. If I were to update my bios what kind of stabilization does it do? Another question, what is that bios button behind the motherboard IO shield. Is it a flashback button? Educate me my PC friends!


----------



## [email protected]

I ran this overclocked by auto settings and I never messed with voltages. Here is my CPUID.
Did I do anything wrong? I need honest answers. I also googled information on what other people's CPUID looks like and this came up

http://valid.x86.fr/xbpggg

(Why are his volts different than mine?) Including the multiplier, it shows 16-63? Why isn't it the same as the others? Is it because I am not tweaking voltages? Can someone help me out here and educate me on this part so I can understand what's going on?


I have image tearing now in most games but rarely on a few. I had to enable VSYNC and it works fine but sometimes I still catch image tearing when if it's on. So i tried the route via Nvidia Control Panel. Maybe I have a bad video card? Bad DVI or I need a new monitor? A lot of questions need to be answered. I still think it's probably because I have a powerful video card that is slightly bottlenecking my CPU. However, I saw this video. 




He has a 1440hz monitor. I am baffled. However, that would LOWER more FPS. I'm just baffled how he runs just fine. Something is wrong. Maybe it's my SSD? I am using 1504 bios update not the newest one because what everyone says is that don't fix what is broken. I never had motherboard problems. I like 1080p but always wanted to go 1440hz but I rather not because I know there will be fps drops.


Advice?


These are my current specs at the moment
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1060-6GB SSC version-
Hydro Series™ H100i v2 Extreme (replaced and installed on Mar 5, 2018)
SSD: Samsung 830 256GB -
HDD: WD Black 1TB (2010) -
HDD: WD Blue 500GB (2010) -
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 C9 4x4GB
MBD: Asus SABERTOOTH Z77
BENQ 1920X1080 
EVGA 860 BQ Power Supply

These are my idle temps. My load temps never go over 45c or 54c and that's it.


----------



## [email protected]

BUMP.. I talked to a friend and it turns out that I don't need to do anything and leave it as it is. Image Tearing MIGHT be related to video card drivers. I may consider a new different monitor since my monitor is made for movies and it has 4ms. Perhaps I'll have a difference if I had a different one. The upgrade plans will have to be on hold. May try Ryzen someday.


----------



## CoreyL4

Does 2400mhz ram not work with z77?


----------



## PainKiller89

Hi Guys. What is the latest bios version for the motherboard? I am also having an issue with a clean install of windows 10. When I do a clean install of windows 10 boot times are almost up to a minute. Any ideas? 

I recently wanted to do a clean install of windows 10 1803 build. For some weird reason When doing a clean install, the boot time is almost to a minute. When doing the ﻿install I disabled CSM in the BIOS and changed UEFI mode to other OS instead of windows UEFI and boot time is just too slow. With my previous windows, 10 backed up image which the boot time is less than 10 seconds. Any ideas? I am running z77 with i7 3770k 16Gb of ram. Please help﻿


----------



## mahi01

Go to Roku page roku activation record enter Roku com association code appeared on Roku TV. My Roku com associate not working use new Roku code.


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## Chewbaca77

Hi guys, I have a problem with the audio on my board, I have bought a second hand board but the audio refuses to work, I have installed all the drivers that are on the asus page as well as on the Realtek page.
Windows recognizes the audio chip but no audio comes out of the audio jacks. When I try Ubuntu, the same thing happens, no audio comes out.
the optical audio output does not light red either as they usually do.


----------

