# Super Flower Leadex and rebrands/variants club



## shilka

Welcome to the EVGA SuperNova B3 / G2 / G2L / G3 / P2 / T2 / Super Flower Leadex I and II owners club

*But before i begin i would like you to read this thread first*
EVGA SuperNova lineup explained

The Super Flower Leadex is the first ever fully modular platform Super Flower has made and the Leadex platform and the EVGA rebrands has with its very low ripple and good quality yet with a very fair price has proven to be quite popular and almost unbeatable in its price range.

The EVGA G2 / P2 / T2 also come with a massive 10 year warranty, just note that you will NOT get the full 10 year warranty unless you register your PSU and its serial number on the EVGA website within 30 days.

The Super Flower Leadex comes in 3 main versions one is 80 Plus Gold rated, one is 80 Plus Platinum rated, and the Last one is 80 Plus Titanium rated, they also comes in both white and black for the Gold rated version.
The EVGA G2 / P2 and T2 fellows the same lineup with one Gold one Platinum and Titanium rated series.

Note that many if not all versions of the Leadex come in both black and white which can get somewhat confusing at times

*First is the Leadex Gold series*

This is a fully modular 80 plus gold rated series
Comes in 550 / 650 / 750 / 850 / 1000 / 1300 / 1600 and 2000 watts


Spoiler: photos












Spoiler: video













Spoiler: 650 watt reviews



http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/super-flower-leadex-gold-650w-review/





Spoiler: 750 watt reviews



http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SuperFlower/SF-750F14MG/
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=370





Spoiler: 1300 watt reviews



www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=367
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SuperFlower/SF-1300F14MG/



*Next one is the Leadex Platinum*

This is a fully modular 80 plus platinum rated series
Comes in 650 / 750 / 850 / 1000 / 1200 and 1600 watts


Spoiler: photos












Spoiler: 1000 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=340
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/super-flower-leadex-platinum-1000w-psu-review/
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SuperFlower/SF-1000F14MP/





Spoiler: 1200 watt reviews



http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SuperFlower/SF-1200F-14MP/





Spoiler: 2000 watt reviews



http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/superflower-leadex-platinum-8-pack-edition-2000w-review/



*Last is the Leadex Titanium*
Comes in 550 / 600 / 650 / 750 / 850 / 1000 / 1300 and 1600 watts.


Spoiler: reviews



http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/superflower-leadex-titanium-1600w-review/
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=439



Next are the EVGA versions of the Leadex platform

*EVGA SuperNova G2 series*
Comes in 550 / 650 / 750 / 850 / 1000 / 1300 and 1600 watts



Spoiler: G2 photos














Reviews of the EVGA SuperNova G2


Spoiler: 550 watts reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=440





Spoiler: 650 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=429
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_650/





Spoiler: 750 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=380
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_750/
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/psu/68993-evga-supernova-750-g2/
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/EVGA-SuperNOVA-750G2-and-850G2-Gold-Power-Supply-Review





Spoiler: 850 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=377
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_850/
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/EVGA-SuperNOVA-750G2-and-850G2-Gold-Power-Supply-Review





Spoiler: 1000 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=346
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_1000/
http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=1049&lang=english





Spoiler: 1300 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=349
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_1300/
http://hardocp.com/article/2014/12/11/evga_supernova_1300_g2_1300w_power_supply_review





Spoiler: 1600 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=391
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_1600/





Spoiler: videos































*EVGA SuperNova P2*
Comes in 650 / 750 / 850 / 1000 / 1300 and 1600 watts


Spoiler: photos













Spoiler: video













Spoiler: 650 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=446
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/evga-supernova-650-p2-review/





Spoiler: 850 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=444





Spoiler: 1000 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=361
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_P2_1000/





Spoiler: 1200 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=389
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_P2_1200/
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/EVGA-SuperNOVA-1200-P2-Platinum-Power-Supply-Review
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/evga-supernova-p2-1200-psu-review/





Spoiler: 1600 watt review



http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/%EF%BB%BFevga-supernova-p2-1600-supply-review/
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=406
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=411



*Nast is the EVGA SuperNova T2*
Wattage comes in 1000 / 1200 and 1600 watts.


Spoiler: photos











Spoiler: 850 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=462





Spoiler: 1000 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=459





Spoiler: 1600 watt reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=410



*Next is the EVGA SuperNova G3 which is based on the Leadex II*
Comes in 550 / 650 / 750 / 850 and 1000 wattts


Spoiler: photos
















Spoiler: reviews



http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=500
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=494



Older information threads
Super Flower power supplies information thread
Super Flower Leadex information thread
EVGA power supplies information thread


----------



## shilka

*Rules you must follow if you want to be added to the owners list.

You must show a clear picture of your Leadex and/or SuperNova G2/P2/T2 unit or the box in this thread, the amount of wattage must be clear as well but it does not matter if its inside or outside your system.

Anyone that wont show any pictures or have too poor quality pictures or a picture that dont show the amount of wattage clearly will NOT be added to the owners list sory but that is how it is.*

*EVGA owners list*

*G2 owners list*


Spoiler: 550 watts



Decade
Harrywang





Spoiler: 650 watts



smiley424
NFL
Coydog





Spoiler: 750 watts



904bangingsys
Neocoolzero
geggeg
looniam
VulgarDisplay88
shilka
Aluc13
mauley
jumpy2219
LostParticle
cjc75
tabascosauz
Tenaji
vertical2
MisakiChan
EthanKing
xtrafingers
mattass
sahafiec
nadz
SkyFred
rxl-gaming
Piccolo55
Decade
Temuka
Intrepidation
Boost240
Darrath





Spoiler: 850 watts



Roaches
carlhil2
MrGrievous
Blaise170
JackCY
moustang
Heimsgard
dilster97
llantant
Jiryama





Spoiler: 1000 watts



szeged
TheCautiousOne
anotheraznguy
HagbardCeline
ReSpawNnL
jlhawn
Archea47





Spoiler: 1300 watts



Arizonian
Kimir
Dasboogieman
geggeg
Wolfsbora
Gunderman456
QAKE
Gobigorgohome
evoll88
chronicfx
Bond32
DR4G00N
Archea47
TheCautiousOne
Roaches
C!rkus
ShortySmalls
KickAssCop
DavJohnson
PatrickCrowely
Horgen
wermad





Spoiler: 1600 watts



lifeisshort117
szeged
Silent Scone
midnytwarrior
Roaches
broken pixel
dixson01974
King4x4
Cyber Locc



*P2 owners list*


Spoiler: 650 watts



krabs
pelayostyle
Cavi
MadSupra354
Kimir
Twinnuke
sherlock
nvaderscs
Makki





Spoiler: 750 watts



RyuVsJaquio
CannedBullets
Thoth420
TUFinside





Spoiler: 850 watts



WinterQuinn
Rob27shred
Denzel
SteezyTN
Malkorath





Spoiler: 1000 watts



Admiral AnimE
Vardamir
LA_Kings_Fan
daddyd302
EVGA-JacobF
sbrochew
br3n00cs
xTesla1856
241pizza
chronicfx
xTesla1856
wickedout
Arizonian





Spoiler: 1200 watts



Vlada011
najiro
Rakddon
benjamen50
wholeeo
ondoy
theshadowofsam
DokoBG
ProclusLycaeus
Martin778





Spoiler: 1600 watts



MacG32



*T2 owners list*


Spoiler: 1000 watts



hiarc





Spoiler: 1600 watts



geggeg
BrokenPC
Mystriss
Metros
fjordiales
MrTOOSHORT
Hydroplane
pozzallo



*G3 owners list*


Spoiler: 550 watts



Arengeta





Spoiler: 650 watts



AuraNova





Spoiler: 1000 watts



MrTOOSHORT



*Leadex I owners list*


Spoiler: 550 watts



NinjaDuck
stin0





Spoiler: 650 watts



Snips
Gumbi





Spoiler: 750 watts



Am3oo
ireniqs





Spoiler: 850 watts



Klocek001





Spoiler: 1000 watts



sebasm
Mega Man
Maintenance Bot





Spoiler: 1200 watts



gdubc





Spoiler: 1300 watts



Dsrt



*Leadex II owners list*


Spoiler: 650 watts



YOEL44


----------



## shilka

EVGA SuperNova G1 is an FSP unit right?


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> EVGA SuperNova G1 is an FSP unit right?


I don't know for sure, but definitely looks like it could be based of the Aurum Pro 1000W.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> I don't know for sure, but definitely looks like it could be based of the Aurum Pro 1000W.


So it does not belong in this club then


----------



## Arizonian

Nice start to OP Philistine.

Thanks to members like Shilka, and Two Cables for pointing me in the right direction to this great PSU that's priced to kill other 1300 watt range units, including the platinum competition in qaulity, and near platinum performance.



Here's my proof.


----------



## shilka

There are rumors of more P2 models like a 1200 watts P2.
Oh the P2 should be in the name of the thread as well


----------



## Roaches

I got the 850 G2 version not long ago...Mind you this pic is old as I've swapped the mobo to an OC Formula and other changes.


----------



## 904bangingsys

Just got it not to long ago. It will be powering my 6 volt modded gridseeds and my system.







Need it for the amps more than watts. Planning for moar gridseeds.


----------



## Kimir

How do you plan to make the member list, do we need a picture and some validation form?

I could do something like I did for the Aquaero club (that ITDiva ended not using), looking like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1LNfbnllkw0UmOfJI0w6yh62IMVXR_PefcIPHpuqAB6M/viewform?embedded=true
*Form: OCN Aquaero Owners Club*

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club list.*
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dnR0bdQbic9RUgUFUS22TPfyCPUJadnQHTdjH05PjJ8/pubhtml?widget=true


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Nice thread and those are some nice looking cookies too







Computex is just a few days away you are bound to hear some new EVGA PSU news... maybe even a T2 model??!!


----------



## damric

Quote:


> 【News】 - Super Flower at Computex Taipei 20142014-05-06
> You're invited! It would be our great honor to invite you to visit Super Flower Computex booth for latest innovations & products show off, it will certainly be our pleasure and honor to see you in Taipei.
> 
> Computex Taipei 2014
> 
> Date: 3th - 7th June 2014
> 
> Booth#: J0409A at Nangang Exhibition Hall (1F)




http://www.super-flower.com.tw/news_detail.php?class=1&sn=29&lang=


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> Nice thread and those are some nice looking cookies too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Computex is just a few days away you are bound to hear some new EVGA PSU news... maybe even a T2 model??!!


Oh so the 1600w incoming is rated titanium like it's competitor the Corsair AX1500i?


----------



## damric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh so the 1600w incoming is rated titanium like it's competitor the Corsair AX1500i?


----------



## carlhil2

Here's my G2 850 Watt, wish that I had the 1300 watt G2 in my sig rig...


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damric*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks but don't see no model power just yet.


----------



## Sparda09

how does the G series stack up comparied to the G2 series...if you dont mind me asking?


----------



## damric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Thanks but don't see no model power just yet.


The Leadex Platinums already pass Titanium specs at 240v.


----------



## Kimir

Yes I know that, I saw it long ago on the 80+ website, but if they are to release titanium psu, they will have to pass on 110v, no?


----------



## istudy92

Owner of 1300g2 REPORTING IN!!
HURAHHHHHH.

This psu is fantastic! However its the DUMBEST THING IN THE WORLD that the cables are not usable with other PSU, or vice versa. Like...whats up with that?

WHy mix red and black cables....Now i feel like i need an ROG mobo-___-

QUITE AS HECK!!

I am ranting yet loving...its a love hate relationship...like..slapping your love in the butt.

So...when that psu sig comming=p


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes I know that, I saw it long ago on the 80+ website, but if they are to release titanium psu, they will have to pass on 110v, no?


Correct.


----------



## shilka

KipH is going to be reporting from Computex and post about it here on OCN and i will be posting in the news thread.
So if anyone want news about more G1/G2/P2/T2 models tuned on his thread and the news thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1397795/psu-news-thread
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> However its the DUMBEST THING IN THE WORLD that the cables are not usable with other PSU, or vice versa. Like...whats up with that?


OEM´s dont even use the same pin layout on all their platforms.
So of course another OEM is not going to be using any layout another OEM is using thats why.


----------



## sunrat39

Hello everyone!

New to the forum and I thought I would just ask a question regarding these new PSU's. I just ordered the 850W version of this PSU and I am concerned now that I may have purchased one that is an "overkill" for my system. My system is as follows:

Intel DX58SO
Intel core i7 920 d0
6gb OCZ Gold DDR3 Ram (3x2GB)
ATI Radeon HD 5770 (Sapphire)
Fractal Define R4
Corsair TX750W PSU
Crucial M500 240GB SSD
Samsung 500GB Sata HDD
Samsung DVD Drive

I have read countless threads about buying a PSU that should be between 40-60% of the load and 80+ Gold and yada yada yada. My main concern is that I am not using enough Wattage for my 850W psu and that it will harm the psu in the long run. I am leaning towards the fact that I shouldn't have to worry about an "overkill" because this is a high quality PSU and wont present problems that a cheaper, no-name brand would bring. Basically, I am looking for reassurance from people that are experts in this field.

Based on my rig, do you think going with the 850W instead of the 750W (850 was only 20 dollars more so I figured, why not?) is still fine? I am going to upgrade my card (debating between GTX 770 or R9 280X) and who knows, maybe I will SLI/Crossfire in the future. In my eyes, it is better to play it safe and have more headroom and I hoping this high quality PSU takes care of arguments that I have read online about being inefficient with a PSU that is an "overkill".

Thanks!


----------



## twerk

It is overkill, massively, but I wouldn't worry.

Also: http://www.overclock.net/t/872013/50-load-myth/0_100


----------



## sunrat39

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> It is overkill, massively, but I wouldn't worry.
> 
> Also: http://www.overclock.net/t/872013/50-load-myth/0_100


Wow! Quick reply thank you for the link too! I figured it would be overkill but I thought for 20 dollars more and a possibility of SLI/Crossfire in the future that it would be worth it. I don't plan on upgrading from this PSU for a long time. The TX750W doesn't play nice with my fractal define r4 (so many THICK cables) and I just want modular now lol.

Anyway, thanks for the reassurance!


----------



## rewease

I would have actually had to pay extra to get a smaller high end psu. So i went with the 750W G2. Psu calc says I would be fine with under 500W. Better to have some headroom.


----------



## Philistine

Warning, big ass reply.

Please forgive my slowness for updates to this thread. I've been dealing with a few real life issues that have taken precedence.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ooh cookies! I want to join now for sure. EVGA 1300G2 owner reporting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sig suggestion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Bang for Your Buck EVGA G2/P2/SuperFlower Leadex PSU Club


Added and thanks for your sig suggestion. Its going into the pool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'm in the club, owner of a 1300G2 myself as well!


Added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Noooooooooo i wanted to do this.


I saw a void and filled it. I did call dibs.







I will try to keep up with it as best as I can.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Nice start to OP Philistine.
> 
> Thanks to members like Shilka, and Two Cables for pointing me in the right direction to this great PSU that's priced to kill other 1300 watt range units, including the platinum competition in qaulity, and near platinum performance.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my proof.


Thanks! Added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> There are rumors of more P2 models like a 1200 watts P2.
> Oh the P2 should be in the name of the thread as well


Will do if the P2s are in fact re-branded Super Flower PSUs. I'm not totally familiar with EVGA's entire "Supernova" line. I was aiming for this thread to be for Super Flower and Super Flower re-branded EVGA PSUs. Keeping it all in the same family as it were. I know the G2s are re-branded Super Flower PSUs but I haven't researched the P2s (and there is literally no info on the recently announced 1600W T2).

As such any information regarding the EVGA P2 and T2 power supplies would be helpful if anyone has insight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> I got the 850 G2 version not long ago...Mind you this pic is old as I've swapped the mobo to an OC Formula and other changes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *904bangingsys*
> 
> Just got it not to long ago. It will be powering my 6 volt modded gridseeds and my system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need it for the amps more than watts. Planning for moar gridseeds.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> How do you plan to make the member list, do we need a picture and some validation form?
> 
> I could do something like I did for the Aquaero club (that ITDiva ended not using), looking like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1LNfbnllkw0UmOfJI0w6yh62IMVXR_PefcIPHpuqAB6M/viewform?embedded=true
> *Form: OCN Aquaero Owners Club*
> 
> *OCN Aquaero Owners Club list.*
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dnR0bdQbic9RUgUFUS22TPfyCPUJadnQHTdjH05PjJ8/pubhtml?widget=true


In so far as I've taken it I'm just manually adding members as they post. If you could set up a Google Docs signup that would be absolutely great. (Perhaps I could ply you with some of my


http://imgur.com/h8B18QO

?







) Forum name and model with a pic (as optional) would be all I think is needed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carlhil2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my G2 850 Watt, wish that I had the 1300 watt G2 in my sig rig...


Added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Owner of 1300g2 REPORTING IN!!
> HURAHHHHHH.
> 
> This psu is fantastic! However its the DUMBEST THING IN THE WORLD that the cables are not usable with other PSU, or vice versa. Like...whats up with that?
> 
> WHy mix red and black cables....Now i feel like i need an ROG mobo-___-
> 
> QUITE AS HECK!!
> 
> I am ranting yet loving...its a love hate relationship...like..slapping your love in the butt.
> 
> So...when that psu sig comming=p


Added. Still need some more submissions. Only 2 so far.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> Will do if the P2s are in fact re-branded Super Flower PSUs. I'm not totally familiar with EVGA's entire "Supernova" line. I was aiming for this thread to be for Super Flower and Super Flower re-branded EVGA PSUs. Keeping it all in the same family as it were. I know the G2s are re-branded Super Flower PSUs but I haven't researched the P2s (and there is literally no info on the recently announced 1600W T2)..


P2 = rebranded Super Flower Leadex Platinum

T2 = rebranded Super Flower Leadex Titanium

As well as the new T2 units they have released 1600W G2 and P2 units which you can add to the OP if you want.

Here is the new G2 1600 product link, they haven't added the others to the site yet.

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=120-G2-1600-X1


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> Will do if the P2s are in fact re-branded Super Flower PSUs. I'm not totally familiar with EVGA's entire "Supernova" line. I was aiming for this thread to be for Super Flower and Super Flower re-branded EVGA PSUs. Keeping it all in the same family as it were. I know the G2s are re-branded Super Flower PSUs but I haven't researched the P2s (and there is literally no info on the recently announced 1600W T2)..
> 
> 
> 
> P2 = rebranded Super Flower Leadex Platinum
> T2 = rebranded Super Flower Leadex Titanium
> 
> As well as the new T2 units they have released 1600W G2 and P2 units which you can add to the OP if you want.
> 
> Here is the new G2 1600 product link, they haven't added the others to the site yet.
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=120-G2-1600-X1
Click to expand...

Thanks again! Updating the product listing and adding the EVGA T2 rebate lottery news.


----------



## gdubc

Proud owner of a stunning white Superflower 1200w. Can get pics later after work of needed.


----------



## VeerK

Just checking in to say I am the proud owner of a new EVGA 850G2. This baby has no coil whine whatsoever, makes me very happy sitting next to my tower on a daily basis


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine*
> 
> In so far as I've taken it I'm just manually adding members as they post. If you could set up a Google Docs signup that would be absolutely great. (Perhaps I could ply you with some of my
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/h8B18QO
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Forum name and model with a pic (as optional) would be all I think is needed.


Will see if I can do it today. I'll PM you when I got it done.


----------



## Arizonian

Completed registration and uploaded the Supernova 1300 G2 invoice to EVGA today. Hard to believe. it feels good to know I'm set for 10 years.

Between three builds I maintain I see this lasting the duration.


----------



## VSG




----------



## Kimir

Good god, a 1600T2 pleaaaase.


----------



## shilka

I just updated both the Super Flower threads and the news thread with info on the Super Flower versions.
Updated the EVGA info thread as well with the EVGA versions.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395708/evga-power-supplies-information-thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1397795/psu-news-thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1390866/super-flower-leadex-information-thread
http://www.overclock.net/t/1439667/super-flower-power-supplies-information-thread

Sory to be a pest but coming was spelled wrong in the OP, might need to fix that Philistine


----------



## Typhoeus

My Supernova G2 750W will be arriving Monday! Can't wait til the 4790k releases so I can start getting some real use out of it!


----------



## Admiral AnimE

1000 P2 here, loving the silent fanless mode!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sunrat39

I noticed that my psu (850 watt) has this clicking noise when I turn my computer off. My tx750w from corsair never did this. Should I be worried?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Just saw this and wanted to share
http://www.evga.com/articles/00841/


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Just saw this and wanted to share
> http://www.evga.com/articles/00841/


Was added the other day in OP.


----------



## Neocoolzero

Proud owner of a EVGA Supernova G2 750











Been upgrading my pc and after getting a r9 280x my old cheap psu just couldn't handle it anymore,so after some research i went for this one,and love it


----------



## VSG

I should soon have a glorious picture for this club.


----------



## Blaise170

I will be joining soon.









Btw, you might want to reword the OP, EVGA isn't the only Super Flower reseller.


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I will be joining soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, you might want to reword the OP, EVGA isn't the only Super Flower reseller.


But they are the only one reselling the leadex platform.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> But they are the only one reselling the leadex platform.


Which is why I said reword, not remove.


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Which is why I said reword, not remove.


?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> ?


Quote:


> EVGA is the only US based reseller of the Super Flower Leadex platform


sounds more appropriate than
Quote:


> EVGA is the only US based reseller of Super Flower


----------



## Dasboogieman

Ooooooh theres a club for this? I may as well join. Mine's the 1300W unit


----------



## Xinoxide

I want in, Ive got an EVGA supernova G2 750W


----------



## Vardamir

Sign me up, please









I have an EVGA Supernova 1000 P2 and an EVGA Supernova 1600 G2 :


----------



## fateswarm

I was actually very impressed with the packaging of the 1000 G2. It feels way more luxurious than I thought. Let me know if it's important to enter the club with photos etc.

Then again, I never had a high end PSU before.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I should soon have a glorious picture for this club.


As promised:




For Shilka/twerk and anyone else interested, a better look at the internals (but not as good as if I would have opened them up of course):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I got the original photo with more detail too if need be.


----------



## shilka

The G2 1600 watts is freaking HUGE!


----------



## VSG

Ya, it is 220 or 225mm long- not exactly sure which one and I don't have a ruler on hand just yet. A lot of builds will definitely be limited by its length.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As promised:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For Shilka/twerk and anyone else interested, a better look at the internals (but not as good as if I would have opened them up of course):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the original photo with more detail too if need be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The G2 1600 watts is freaking HUGE!


Wow and I thought the G2 1300W was huge when I pulled it out of the box! Thanks for the pic comparison.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Wow and I thought the G2 1300W was huge when I pulled it out of the box! Thanks for the pic comparison.


The box of the 1600G2 is the tallest PSU box of the 4 I have, the boxes of the other 3 are actually longer. They did this to have the 1600G2 in vertically rather than length wise since the box of cables is huge too. Unboxing this was definitely an experience


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As promised:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For Shilka/twerk and anyone else interested, a better look at the internals (but not as good as if I would have opened them up of course):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the original photo with more detail too if need be.


Those ferrite coils are huge! Takes up almost the whole view of the back panel.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Those ferrite coils are huge! Takes up almost the whole view of the back panel.


The power cord plug is huge as well.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The power cord plug is huge as well.


Yup



Many more pictures in my build log linked in my sig for anyone interested.


----------



## twerk

Thanks for the pics geggeg! May be getting my hands on one myself pretty soon, we shall see.


----------



## shilka

July 31 is the last i heard about when the G2 750 watts goes on sale.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> July 31 is the last i heard about when the G2 750 watts goes on sale.


In Denmark?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> In Denmark?


Yes only place i have seen the 750 watts G2 says they will get them on july 31th


----------



## Kimir

Yep, that 1600 is big, can definitely NOT fit in place of my 1300 in the back of my 360mm radiator.
CL SMA8 is too small.







(just kidding)


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> As promised:
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*












Don't think for one second I have gotten over the missing fanless mode on the higher wattage units lol. Now I just need to think about sleeving. The kit as it is now is 3 PCI-E cables short for the 1600G2 I believe as it is.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I was actually very impressed with the packaging of the 1000 G2. It feels way more luxurious than I thought. Let me know if it's important to enter the club with photos etc.
> 
> Then again, I never had a high end PSU before.


Same impressions when I unboxed the 850 G2 in the other thread. Almost no competitor comes close to the packaging EVGA did this PSU series this time around. I wasn't expecting the unit to be well padded, reusable bag sealed. Even the optional cable bag feels pretty high end and it comes with a 24 pin Jumper for those that need only power to do a leak test for custom water cooling setups.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think for one second I have gotten over the missing fanless mode on the higher wattage units lol. Now I just need to think about sleeving. The kit as it is now is 3 PCI-E cables short for the 1600G2 I believe as it is.


Oops, sorry. Platinum and Titanium have that. Yea its a couple of cables short for 1600.


----------



## Xinoxide

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think for one second I have gotten over the missing fanless mode on the higher wattage units lol. Now I just need to think about sleeving. The kit as it is now is 3 PCI-E cables short for the 1600G2 I believe as it is.
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, sorry. Platinum and Titanium have that. Yea its a couple of cables short for 1600.
Click to expand...

So how do you suggest we aquire the extra few cables? Will EVGA flip the bill on that or what?

Edit: for question mark.


----------



## Blaise170

Just bought my 850W G2. Will show pics once I get it.


----------



## twerk

Forgot to ask, @geggeg why do you have 3 G2's? That's just greedy.


----------



## VSG

Two for 2 rigs in the Caselabs TX10-D, and the 1300G2 currently on sale.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xinoxide*
> 
> So how do you suggest we aquire the extra few cables? Will EVGA flip the bill on that or what?
> 
> Edit: for question mark.


Not sure yet, we may make those additional cables available separately.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> Not sure yet, we may make those additional cables available separately.


It would be nice to have that service, I've had to buy additional before myself.


----------



## VSG

Definitely! You may even get new customers for those also since not everyone wants SATA/Molex/Floppy cables sleeved anyway.


----------



## Dsrt

Count me in! Super Flower 1300W Leadex


----------



## MrGrievous

So in my excitement of finally finding a awesome psu I immediately bought the 850W G2 PSU but I ran across the horrible capacitors found attached tot eh wires that I want to sleeve. Would removing them impact the performance of this unit any and if so how much? Is there a good way to work around these capacitors?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dsrt*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Count me in! Super Flower 1300W Leadex


Congrats.









More importantly, I noticed those two 290X's sitting on the table next to the PSU. Make your way over to the *[Official] AMD R9 290X / 290 Owners Club* and love to add you to the club roster.


----------



## MrGrievous

Here is my unit awaiting for my build to start


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> Not sure yet, we may make those additional cables available separately.


Any chances EVGA will be offering shorter modular cables as an aftermarket option, regardless sleeved or not?

I'd like to use a 750 G2 in an ITX case. Though long stock cables really ruin the cable management opportunity due to the lack of manageable space.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGrievous*
> 
> So in my excitement of finally finding a awesome psu I immediately bought the 850W G2 PSU but I ran across the horrible capacitors found attached tot eh wires that I want to sleeve. Would removing them impact the performance of this unit any and if so how much? Is there a good way to work around these capacitors?


The capacitors in the wires help reduce ripple a bit, but not significantly.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Any chances EVGA will be offering shorter modular cables as an aftermarket option, regardless sleeved or not?
> 
> I'd like to use a 750 G2 in an ITX case. Though long stock cables really ruin the cable management opportunity due to the lack of manageable space.


No plans at this particular moment. May look into more flexibility in future. In fact we are considering selling "barebones" units, just PSU brick only. This way you can get cables separately and save a bit of cash


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> No plans at this particular moment. May look into more flexibility in future. In fact we are considering selling "barebones" units, just PSU brick only. This way you can get cables separately and save a bit of cash


Yes, yes, yes. Do eet! It's frustrating how when buying a PSU and a separate cable kit, you are essentially wasting £30.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> In fact we are considering selling "barebones" units, just PSU brick only. This way you can get cables separately and save a bit of cash


That's pretty awesome









Now if you can split up the sleeved cables kit to offer people to buy only CPU/24 pin/PCI-E or spare PCI-E cables it would be icing on that cake.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> No plans at this particular moment. May look into more flexibility in future. In fact we are considering selling "barebones" units, just PSU brick only. This way you can get cables separately and save a bit of cash


BareBones would be alot better! Especially for those buy sleeved cables. Though please take the short cables option into consideration for the future.


----------



## Blaise170

Finally got mine in today.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> No plans at this particular moment. May look into more flexibility in future. In fact we are considering selling "barebones" units, just PSU brick only. This way you can get cables separately and save a bit of cash


That's a great idea.









One PSU too late for me.









I would have purchased the G2 1300W without cables and the red sleeved EVGA cables separately. It's what I'm doing anyway and won't be using the ones that came with the PSU at all. Way to be the first to do this. I expect other companies will follow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Finally got mine in today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Congrats man.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> That's a great idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One PSU too late for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have purchased the G2 1300W without cables and the red sleeved EVGA cables separately. It's what I'm doing anyway and won't be using the ones that came with the PSU at all. Way to be the first to do this. I expect other companies will follow.
> Congrats man.


Having problems with my rig though, got everything rewired to a boot device not found message. Checked all my cables, my games HDD was unplugged so plugged that in, finally got it to boot, now my other HDD isn't showing up. I hate computers sometimes.


----------



## tracerit

for those who have the 750 G2, is it completely silent on idle/low load?

I've tried two different power supplies from Seasonic (660XP2 and Corsair branded HX650) and when on idle/low load, there's a light buzzing sound when I bring my ear within 1 foot.

I just got a Corsair RM650 (lol...) and it's absolutely silent on idle/low load, it's unbelievable really. Can't hear anything when my ear is again 1 foot from it. If the 750 G2 is going to give me the same silence, I'm up for it. Especially after reading silka's huge post on the RM650. Wish I had seen it sooner haha.


----------



## VSG

The one I have has pretty bad coil whine. I spoke to Chris over at EVGA and we both agreed to let it be on for a few days using the motherboard cable jumper to see if it subsides. If not, I will do an advanced RMA with them actually checking the replacement unit for coil whine. Other than that, I can't hear anything else with eco-mode on.


----------



## Blaise170

With Eco mode on,I don't hear anything on my 850 G2.


----------



## giygas

Will an 850 G2 be enough to power two Sapphire R9 280X cards running in Crossfire?


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> Will an 850 G2 be enough to power two Sapphire R9 280X cards running in Crossfire?


Yes, quite easily.


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Yes, quite easily.


I just read this review on the card at AnandTech. 469W power draw under full load for one card. I'm no expert but I'm sure having 2 cards doesn't automatically mean 900+W. So I think I will go for the 850W, thanks.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> I just read this review on the card at AnandTech. 469W power draw under full load for one card. I'm no expert but I'm sure having 2 cards doesn't automatically mean 900+W. So I think I will go for the 850W, thanks.


Yeah, that's total system power consumption. You have to take off the power drawn by the other components then you can work it out.

I tend to use Guru3D as my go-to site for quick power consumption numbers as they give you the power draw of the card on it's own.

*Power consumption AMD Radeon R9-280X*


System in IDLE = 119W
System Wattage with GPU in FULL Stress = *350W*
Difference (GPU load) = 231W
Add average IDLE wattage ~10W
Subjective obtained GPU power consumption = ~ *241 Watts*


----------



## giygas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Yeah, that's total system power consumption. You have to take off the power drawn by the other components then you can work it out.
> 
> I tend to use Guru3D as my go-to site for quick power consumption numbers as they give you the power draw of the card on it's own.
> 
> *Power consumption AMD Radeon R9-280X*
> 
> System in IDLE = 119W
> System Wattage with GPU in FULL Stress = *350W*
> Difference (GPU load) = 231W
> Add average IDLE wattage ~10W
> Subjective obtained GPU power consumption = ~ *241 Watts*


Got it, thank you!


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giygas*
> 
> I just read this review on the card at AnandTech. 469W power draw under full load for one card. I'm no expert but I'm sure having 2 cards doesn't automatically mean 900+W. So I think I will go for the 850W, thanks.


Yeah, you can also look at amperages to help as well. The card itself draws about 21A, and using the equation for power, you are looking at 21A·12V=252W. This is very similar to the numbers from Twerk. So...

250*2=500W Crossfire

500W + 120W (CPU) + 100W (Etc) = 720W

You're looking at no more than 750W needed, and you probably won't need that much. The only reason to get a larger PSU is for overvolting your hardware.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF




----------



## VSG

I have an EVGA individually sleeved cable kit (G2, P2, T2) in red with me now for some testing. If anyone has any particular requests of photos or tests, let me know.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have an EVGA individually sleeved cable kit (G2, P2, T2) in red with me now for some testing. If anyone has any particular requests of photos or tests, let me know.


Could you take some close ups of the cables? and how are they only cables? i can only compare with the Corsair Gen 1 which by the way sucks and the Bitfenix Alchemy which are pretty good.


----------



## Kimir

Shot some close up so I can see how they are compared to the white I own please.


----------



## QAKE

Hello, I really want to join this club because EVGA PSU are incredible! I own a 1300W Supernova G2.
Here's the build: Build Log


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Hello, I really want to join this club because EVGA PSU are incredible! I own a 1300W Supernova G2.
> Here's the build: Build Log


Its only the G2/P2/T2 that are good the old SuperNova NEX models and the non SuperNova models are not very good, and EVGA does not make any of them if you dont already know?

Post number 23.000 lol


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its only the G2/P2/T2 that are good the old SuperNova NEX models and the non SuperNova models are not very good, and EVGA does not make any of them if you dont already know?
> 
> Post number 23.000 lol


Well, I'm not an expert in PSU, but from the 20-25 that I had, it's indeed the best of them.
Thanks for the info, can I have more information about the company who make them?

EDIT: It's my first "EVGA" PSU, and I'm really happy with it

EDIT 2: No need to respond, I found what I was asking for

EDIT 3: You seems to be quite the PSU Expert here


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Could you take some close ups of the cables? and how are they only cables? i can only compare with the Corsair Gen 1 which by the way sucks and the Bitfenix Alchemy which are pretty good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Shot some close up so I can see how they are compared to the white I own please.


Sure, these were actually taken a few hours ago so let me know if you need any particular angle or perspective. I have thrown in a Corsair 24 pin ATX cable (Gen 2) in there too:





















I got a longer discussion with more pictures here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/sponsored-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/250_50#post_22542839

So far I am pretty impressed- definitely better than the Corsair cables in terms of flexibility and also retaining shape. Heatshrink is a personal aesthetics decision but in my case I prefer the no heatshrink versions. I am currently testing these out to see if they can handle my KPEs drawing 500-600W each via dedicated as well as daisy chained VGA cables and a friend is going to take one cable apart and test more before putting it back together and returning it so I will post more info as and when I get it.


----------



## LiquidHaus

didn't know about this thread! how ridiculous of me









here's mine!



early adopter ftw.

will be acquiring EVGA's individually sleeved cables soon as well.

Jacob i'll be sending you a private message regarding the cables soon


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sure, these were actually taken a few hours ago so let me know if you need any particular angle or perspective. I have thrown in a Corsair 24 pin ATX cable (Gen 2) in there too:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a longer discussion with more pictures here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1491508/sponsored-the-utterly-imbalanced-caselabs-tx10-d-build-s/250_50#post_22542839
> 
> So far I am pretty impressed- definitely better than the Corsair cables in terms of flexibility and also retaining shape. Heatshrink is a personal aesthetics decision but in my case I prefer the no heatshrink versions. I am currently testing these out to see if they can handle my KPEs drawing 500-600W each via dedicated as well as daisy chained VGA cables and a friend is going to take one cable apart and test more before putting it back together and returning it so I will post more info as and when I get it.


How do they feel to touch? the Corsair Gen 1 cables blows they feel very cheap and rough to touch and they are so stiff you have to force them to bend, the Bitfenix is nothing like the Corsair cables they are far better, if the EVGA cables are as good or better then the Bitfenix then i am sold otherwise i am a bit skeptical.


----------



## Kimir

Thanks for the pics, they are like the white I see.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Thanks for the pics, they are like the white I see.


The white is a Corsair Gen 2 cable


----------



## Kimir

I meant from the white evga I own..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> How do they feel to touch? the Corsair Gen 1 cables blows they feel very cheap and rough to touch and they are so stiff you have to force them to bend, the Bitfenix is nothing like the Corsair cables they are far better, if the EVGA cables are as good or better then the Bitfenix then i am sold otherwise i am a bit skeptical.


These cables are rougher to touch, but easier to flex or bend. This is because of the different sleeving material used. I don't have any experience with the Bitfenix cables but I did get some samples of paracord from a local sleever. That definitely feels better but is more expensive as a sleeving material. For $90 for this kit in the US, it is a pretty good buy for most people who want to step up from the stock cables but yet not wanting to spend hundreds on custom cables.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> These cables are rougher to touch, but easier to flex or bend. This is because of the different sleeving material used. I don't have any experience with the Bitfenix cables but I did get some samples of paracord from a local sleever. That definitely feels better but is more expensive as a sleeving material. For $90 for this kit in the US, it is a pretty good buy for most people who want to step up from the stock cables but yet not wanting to spend hundreds on custom cables.


I am going custom then.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Working on sleeving it. Count me in!


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Wow nice ^^


----------



## VSG

Forgot to put these in here:





That second 1600G2 Is going to szeged who should be joining this club soon now.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> Wow nice ^^


Thanks!


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Looking to buy a G2 850 or 1000. Is anyone experiencing coil whine with these PSUs? My corsairs are by far the most obtrusive components in both of my rigs.


----------



## fateswarm

I thought those PSUs turn off their fans on very, very, low loads. Is it possible? Or do they have to cool a couple of components no matter what?


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I thought those PSUs turn off their fans on very, very, low loads. Is it possible? Or do they have to cool a couple of components no matter what?


They operate fanless at low loads. Both of my corsairs exhibit buzzing at idle and louder buzzing/chirping/squealing under load. Very obnoxious sounds that are hard to ignore


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhsownsbeta*
> 
> Looking to buy a G2 850 or 1000. Is anyone experiencing coil whine with these PSUs? My corsairs are by far the most obtrusive components in both of my rigs.


I've heard of very, very few cases of coil whine in any Super Flower units. These are probably your best bet if you want a silent unit at low loads.


----------



## fateswarm

Do the fans of the G2s turn off on very low load?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Do the fans of the G2s turn off on very low load?


If you set it in hybrid mode


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Do the fans of the G2s turn off on very low load?


Only those with the eco mode, i.e, the 750 and 850G2. None of the other G2 PSUs have this feature.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If you set it in hybrid mode


Hm. I didn't find such a feature on the 1000 G2.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Only those with the eco mode, i.e, the 750 and 850G2. None of the other G2 PSUs have this feature.


Ah OK. No biggie. It's not heard on low load.


----------



## shilka

The P2 has a hybrid fan mode aka eco mode.


----------



## Gunderman456

Might as well join the club!

Got my EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300W 80PLUS Gold Fully Modular GPU last November. It died a couple of months later and EVGA was excellent with the RMA; shipping a replacement before I even had to ship my defective PSU to them.



It's been put through the ringer with multiple bench/stress tests in order to attain overclocks on the i7 4770k @ 4.6GHz and two R9 290s in the mix of a water cooled rig "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" (build log in sig).


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> I've heard of very, very few cases of coil whine in any Super Flower units. These are probably your best bet if you want a silent unit at low loads.


Sounds promising, thanks. One other question, do the four 'headers' for pcie cables on the 850w correlate with only one 6/8 pin connector, or are there cables with dual connectors? I want to ensure the possibility of adding another kingpin (which require three pcie) later on down the track.


----------



## VSG

You really don't want to use daisy chained connectors for benching, unless they are all 16 AWG wiring in there. I was taking a look at some cables last night and the daisy chained cables provided 60-70 less watts than discrete cables per PCI-E connector.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Good point. Maybe the 1000w is more suitable then with its 6 discrete pcie headers. The kingpins can get pretty hungry too...


----------



## twerk

We may be seeing 750W, 850W, 1000W and 1300W variants of the EVGA SuperNOVA T2. No promises though! We will almost definitely be seeing Leadex Titanium units in those wattages.

Leadex Titanium 750W

Leadex Titanium 850W

Leadex Titanium 1000W

Leadex Titanium 1300W


----------



## looniam

maybe one day i'll put the shroud back on my 550ti (physx)


----------



## VSG

Someone at EVGA likes me, I won an EVGA 1200P2 (recently released, selling for $230-250) courtesy their Memories of EVGA Promotion:



The past 2-3 weeks have been ridiculous as far as PSU components go, I have no idea what to do with this. I still have to sell the 1300G2 as well.


----------



## twerk

I call hax! Congrats man.


----------



## Kimir

Definitely hax!
Since you are the one that do the best use of EVGA product in your system, must make a new one with this one.


----------



## KBOMB

OOO I'll join the club! Owner of an EVGA Supernova 750 G2!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> for those who have the 750 G2, is it completely silent on idle/low load?
> 
> I've tried two different power supplies from Seasonic (660XP2 and Corsair branded HX650) and when on idle/low load, there's a light buzzing sound when I bring my ear within 1 foot.
> 
> I just got a Corsair RM650 (lol...) and it's absolutely silent on idle/low load, it's unbelievable really. Can't hear anything when my ear is again 1 foot from it. If the 750 G2 is going to give me the same silence, I'm up for it. Especially after reading silka's huge post on the RM650. Wish I had seen it sooner haha.


Mine is completely silent... I don't have it on the "silent mode" where the fan doesn't run but I can't hear it at all in my Fractal R4.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I call hax! Congrats man.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Definitely hax!
> Since you are the one that do the best use of EVGA product in your system, must make a new one with this one.


lol I really didn't expect to win for that to be honest, I thought I had better images for the other themes. This is what I won the theme for:


----------



## Silent Scone

Does anyone know what the 1600W G2 is actually based on? As in what Leadex model.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Does anyone know what the 1600W G2 is actually based on? As in what Leadex model.


Leadex Gold 1600W.

G2=Leadex Gold

P2=Leadex Platinum

T2=Leadex Titanium


----------



## Silent Scone

Thanks, Twerk. Just wasn't sure as I've not seen the 1600W Leadex. Assumed Leadex would of brought theirs out already!


----------



## QAKE

Small teaser of the final build featuring a EVGA Supernova 1300W G2. Pictures are coming tomorrow. Stay tuned!


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Nice pic


----------



## tracerit

I ended up picking the EVGA Supernova G2 750 and will be returning the Corsair RM650 that I had. Kind of bittersweet though since on Eco mode, there is a slight sharp buzzing sound when my ear is next to it whereas the RM650 was absolutely silent. While I don't anticipate the fan on the EVGA to spin up since my max load will be around 15%, the fan isn't exactly the most silent. Then again I have Noctua fans all around my Define R4. When the PSU is placed inside the case and ECO mode is on, it's silent though. It is nice to have the fan switch as well. I will enjoy owning this PSU knowing there's a 10 year warranty and that EVGA is just a few miles from me









Oh and I love the texture of the power supply. So sad it has to be locked up in a case unable to be caressed...









EDIT: Oh, do I need to register the PSU to have a valid warranty? Just wondering if I should keep the box or a copy of the UPC since I'll be sending it in for the rebate.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> EDIT: Oh, do I need to register the PSU to have a valid warranty? Just wondering if I should keep the box or a copy of the UPC since I'll be sending it in for the rebate.


Yes. Without registering you get a 5 year warranty, when you register the product it adds another 5 years, totalling 10.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Yes. Without registering you get a 5 year warranty, when you register the product it adds another 5 years, totalling 10.


Is there a certain timeframe to register? Haven't done mine yet.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Is there a certain timeframe to register? Haven't done mine yet.


30 days from the original purchase I believe.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> Yes. Without registering you get a 5 year warranty, when you register the product it adds another 5 years, totalling 10.


Thanks for reminding me to register! It also reminded me to submit my rebate form.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thanks for reminding me to register! It also reminded me to submit my rebate form.


Definitely worth it.

Just got my $35 rebate yesterday from my G2 1300W. It's a steal for $160 and 10 yr warranty. Unbeatable in its class and then some.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Definitely worth it.
> 
> Just got my $35 rebate yesterday from my G2 1300W. It's a steal for $160 and 10 yr warranty. Unbeatable in its class and then some.


I definitely don't regret it! I need to start sleeving it. I have all of the parts I just haven't had time to sit down and do it.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> 10 years


Yep. No idea about that. Thanks for mentioning it.

I wonder if I have other components like that..


----------



## Kimir

God the US $ price are crazy when compared to EU one, but I guess that's with no taxes, right?
Even tho, $160 = less than 120€, add 21%tax from here, less than 150€, it's 192€ on the store damn! Oh can't complain, the Super flower equivalent is sold at 230€ shipping excluded ahah.


----------



## Blaise170

Hey @EVGA-JacobF, do you know how long the sleeved cables will be offered from the EVGA store? I'd like to buy a set, but there are other expensive purchases I need to make first so it may be as late as next year before I can get them.


----------



## ryanallan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> We may be seeing 750W, 850W, 1000W and 1300W variants of the EVGA SuperNOVA T2. No promises though! We will almost definitely be seeing Leadex Titanium units in those wattages.
> 
> Leadex Titanium 750W
> Leadex Titanium 850W
> Leadex Titanium 1000W
> Leadex Titanium 1300W


Very interesting.
Any idea on a release date?


----------



## Silent Scone

Probably a month or two if I had to guess. The 1600w Titanium should also follow. They were all at Computex.


----------



## Kimir

IMO, the titanium lineup should come with sleeved cables, with the color of your choice.








EVGA, if you read me.








The 1600G2 still didn't show up on EU stock, might as well wait for the titanium, eh.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> IMO, the titanium lineup should come with sleeved cables, with the color of your choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA, if you read me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1600G2 still didn't show up on EU stock, might as well wait for the titanium, eh.


The 1600G2 isn't up for sale in the US store either, just with the auto notify button.


----------



## Roaches

Now that you mentioned it, they should have. I remember the NEX 1500W came with sleeved cables. Though now that they're planning to offer cable less versions kinda make up for that package. I would agree they should have come with sleeved cables as a default offer.


----------



## whyscotty

https://imageshack.com/i/3u4z11j


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://imageshack.com/i/idfd5437j


----------



## VSG

Nicely done, Scotty. You done with the build log?


----------



## Gobigorgohome

2x EVGA G2 1300W in Corsair Carbide Air 540, just need the second psu jumper now.

These units will power my system consisting of 4x R9 290X, Asus RIVBE, 3930K, 16GB 1866Mhz RAM, 3x HDD, 2x SSD and 2x D5 pumps.

Edit: The funny thing is, I only have bought two EVGA-products and both is the same PSU's.


----------



## szeged

never joined the club but i have about 6300 watts of evga power supplies in my house, heres the pics i took of the bigger boys and the sleeving i gave them -

spoilers because lol lots of pics -



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> IMO, *the titanium lineup should come with sleeved cables*, with the color of your choice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA, if you read me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1600G2 still didn't show up on EU stock, might as well wait for the titanium, eh.


They could make two versions. A 1600T2 and a 1600T2cc. Make the "cc" editions with "custom cables" included.


----------



## LiquidHaus

they should let us send in our untouched original cables that came with the 1600g2 and in return send us an individually sleeved set








cmonnnnn early adopters perk!

but to be completely honest I was expecting it to come with the individually sleeved kit as the NEX came with them too.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> they should let us send in our untouched original cables that came with the 1600g2 and in return send us an individually sleeved set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cmonnnnn early adopters perk!
> 
> but to be completely honest I was expecting it to come with the individually sleeved kit as the NEX came with them too.


NEX never came with individually sleeved they where just sleeved


----------



## szeged

well the 1500w did, idk why everyones freaking out over it though, the evga sleeving compared to MDPC sleeving is just abysmal. Sorry evga but that sleeving style/choice is just bad imo, wayyyy too skinny. sleeve with lutro0 style or mdpc style next time


----------



## shilka

I am getting a G2 750 watts in about 2 weeks and i dont think i will buy the EVGA cables, think i am just going to keep the stock cables, am getting a case with PSU cover anyway so its not like you can see much of the cables anyway.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just received my 750 G2. The packaging is pretty awesome considering the price. I'm really pleased with the quality of the power supply, cables and accessories. I've registered the warranty and uploaded the proof of purchase so that's me set for 10 years.

I haven't installed it yet but I have used the jumper to power it up and it's ridiculously silent compared to my Corsair AX760i which is being sent back due to failing the self test (replacement unit will be going to my friend)

I paid just over £80 including delivery for this and already it seems like a bargain.

Included a photo and my name as proof so I can join.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> NEX never came with individually sleeved they where just sleeved


yeah they did


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> yeah they did


I meant they never came with the NEX650 or NEX750.


----------



## Silent Scone

Might be being slightly lazy here, but have we had an ETA on the T2 range?


----------



## VSG

Aug-Sept

That's for the 1600T2 only, no mention of other T2 PSUs.


----------



## Silent Scone

That's the one I was interested in, thanks


----------



## VSG

Same here, will post in this thread as I hear more about the 1600T2 and the 1600P2.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

1600 G2's just came in, limited QTY shipping out. Expect to see them available shortly.


----------



## VSG

Awesome news. How limited are we talking about? I know more than 15 people who are interested after I posted about it in my build logs, so pretty sure it may be end up as a similar scenario like the 780 Ti Classified









Is this for the US webshop only? What about Europe or other retailers here?


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Its more than that







Expect to see it at ETAIL and EVGA.com shortly in US, Europe should follow close.


----------



## VSG




----------



## gdubc

Please make some white ones soon


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

In stock http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=120-G2-1600-X1


----------



## VSG

This is what I got when I tried to add it to cart:


----------



## twerk

You're buying more?! Or are you just testing.


----------



## Roaches

He's trying to horde all of it for himself


----------



## VSG

Just testing, I promise









I helped 3 OCNers get the 1600G2 and still know many more who want these. So wanted to be sure before letting them know.

Edit: Daffy Duck is my favorite Looney Tunes character


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Oops, we are checking out the error.


----------



## VSG

Fixed now


----------



## tracerit

What RPM does the fan spin at when Eco Mode is turned off with the 750W?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> What RPM does the fan spin at when Eco Mode is turned off with the 750W?


In eco mode the fan is off until high load is put on it and then it kicks in like normal.


----------



## tracerit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> In eco mode the fan is off until high load is put on it and then it kicks in like normal.


i know. i'm asking when Eco mode is off.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> i know. i'm asking when Eco mode is off.


Sorry misread it.

I think it's 750rpm on low load and 1500rpm on high load with eco mode off.


----------



## LiquidHaus

wahhhhhh I want a la carte cables already!!!









kinda. I'm not that impatient. Comic-Con will hold off my spending habits for only so long, then it's back to my rig..

cmonnnnnn Jacob lol


----------



## ElScorcho

New 750 G2 owner checking in


----------



## Alvarez

Guys.. I have a problem.

I just got my EVGA 850G2 unit, however i noticed that it has EU compatible power plug... Which is this:



However i live in Switerland and we have this as a power plug:



So right now i dont know what to do... Can i use my old Thermaltake 750W's power cord ? Is it safe since it is the plug of a 750W unit ? What do you suggest ?

Thanks in advance

*cries loudly and looks to evga unit with a sad face*


----------



## VSG

Contact Dominik at the EVGA EU office and tell them about this, they will help out.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Guys.. I have a problem.


Meh. Those plugs have the current-capacity to carry a music concert so to speak. Just use a proper converter plug or any alternative appropriate cable you have, I'd say.


----------



## VSG

Wattage isn't an issue but plug type maybe. If the plug he has is compatible then great!


----------



## Alvarez

Whoops, already sent the mail









Update: he"s not in office until 30th of July so i resent the mail to supporteu. The thing with cheap adapters and non evga cable is... In Switzerland it rains a lot, even yesterday it was raining so much that i thought i was living in India and it was Monsoon season for a moment. So i would like to use original, directly from EVGA if it is possible of course, if not i'll get another cable


----------



## fateswarm

I wouldn't worry about it but go on. Nothing is 100% safe. There is always a possibility for anything.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> wahhhhhh I want a la carte cables already!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda. I'm not that impatient. Comic-Con will hold off my spending habits for only so long, then it's back to my rig..
> 
> cmonnnnnn Jacob lol


Working on it... not 100% a la carte but a few extra as separate.


----------



## VSG

Good to hear that. I am optimistic this will be a good move for you and will get more people interested in buying the cables now.


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

Add me please













Picked up myself a new eVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2, 1000 watt 80+ Platinum PSU on sale from NCIX.us w/ MIR for *$170.00*









http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=88518&promoid=1031


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan*
> 
> Add me please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up myself a new eVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2, 1000 watt 80+ Platinum PSU on sale from NCIX.us w/ MIR for *$170.00*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=88518&promoid=1031


Congrats bud. Sweet PSU - enjoy.


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Congrats bud. Sweet PSU - enjoy.


Thanks man ... and BTW also just posted on the AMD R9 290X Club, can ya update me there Bro ?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LA_Kings_Fan*
> 
> Thanks man ... and BTW also just posted on the AMD R9 290X Club, can ya update me there Bro ?


Just did. Time to update your rig in sig.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Guys.. I have a problem.
> 
> I just got my EVGA 850G2 unit, however i noticed that it has EU compatible power plug... Which is this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yes, that is an CEE 7/7 (eu plug)
Quote:


> However i live in Switerland and we have this as a power plug:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


which is an SS SEV 1011
Quote:


> So right now i dont know what to do... Can i use my old Thermaltake 750W's power cord ? Is it safe since it is the plug of a 750W unit ? What do you suggest ?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> *cries loudly and looks to evga unit with a sad face*


since i am sure the TT psu power cord has the appropriate C 13 IEC plug:


you're good to go, no question.


----------



## VSG

The EVGA 1200P2 got the 2nd ever perfect 10 from Johnnyguru: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=389


----------



## Alvarez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yes, that is an CEE 7/7 (eu plug)
> which is an SS SEV 1011
> since i am sure the TT psu power cord has the appropriate C 13 IEC plug:
> 
> 
> you're good to go, no question.


Thanks for the reply.

I ran Heaven benchmark and couple of stress tests for CPU, no problems so far


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EVGA 1200P2 got the 2nd ever perfect 10 from Johnnyguru: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=389


OklahomaWolf said something about Superflower not using Titanium efficiency yet... Are the EVGA T2 units not out yet?


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> OklahomaWolf said something about Superflower not using Titanium efficiency yet... Are the EVGA T2 units not out yet?


No, they aren't out yet. The T2 1600W is due for release some time August-September.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The EVGA 1200P2 got the 2nd ever perfect 10 from Johnnyguru: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=389


I mainly care about its performance 10 to be honest. And my G2 got it. This is because I usually find a very good offer on price on something that just beats others on performance so that performance+price combo trumps any competition (to my criteria personally).


----------



## VSG

Definitely, other than that eco mode, I would recommend the 1300G2 at the current prices over the 1200P2.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Anyone know how the G2/P2 sleeved cables are compared to the corsair sleeved cables? Is the G2/P2 cables more flexible than the corsair ones?

Talking about these cables: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CK-1300-B9


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyone know how the G2/P2 sleeved cables are compared to the corsair sleeved cables? Is the G2/P2 cables more flexible than the corsair ones?
> 
> Talking about these cables: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CK-1300-B9


They have a tighter weave which makes them more flexible. They are also heatshrinkless which is a bonus. Overall they are quite a bit better.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Wish those cables were available in the UK


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gobigorgohome*
> 
> Anyone know how the G2/P2 sleeved cables are compared to the corsair sleeved cables? Is the G2/P2 cables more flexible than the corsair ones?
> 
> Talking about these cables: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CK-1300-B9


See my post (#115 here) for a visual comparison.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> They have a tighter weave which makes them more flexible. They are also heatshrinkless which is a bonus. Overall they are quite a bit better.


Lovely!







just bought two packs at evga.com/shop because the cables are not available in Norway. They will be paired with my 2x Evga G2 1300W units.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Hey Everyone,

Hello EVGA/Super Flower fans - another one for the club here!

Patiently (_not even close_) waiting for that 850 Watt SuperNOVA 80+ Gold PSU to walk in the home and make itself comfortable.

It may soon have a brother - the 1200 watt Platinum - but don't tell the 850.









ACQ


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Wish those cables were available in the UK


You could always get one us to buy and ship to you. I'm sure you could find someone.


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Wish those cables were available in the UK


Just buy it from evga.com like i did, there is nothing that is not available if you purchase it in another country and get it shipped to your country. I do not see the problem with buying directly from the producer (i have done the same with ekwb.com too)


----------



## ryanallan

Nice P2!

I picked up a 750G2 today.
Really over the top packaging.
Nice to see!

And this note in the manual is why I love EVGA


----------



## Blaise170

I do like that the testing tool was included, but I just use a small 22 AWG wire leftover from an arduino kit. It's just as safe.


----------



## Bartouille

I just received my 1300w G2.









I'm surprised honestly, it's way smaller than I thought it would be. It's about as big as my HX750.


----------



## VSG

That's more of the HX750 being larger than it should be than anything else. Most other units of that wattage are 160mm long compared to the 200mm for it.


----------



## Roaches

Saw this in an EVGA newsletter this morning from my email. P2 1200W just got a 10/10 score from JonnyGuru.com

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=389


----------



## VSG

Post 214


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Post 214


Not my fault I got the email few days late than others lol. Oh well. I'm looking forward to the 1600 P2 version though.


----------



## VSG

Nah, everyone got the email today.The review was just up on JonnyGuru a few days earlier.

Ya, the 1600P2/T2 are going to be real beasts. Can't wait to see them! I would love for the T2 to come in a different exterior to distinguish it from the others.


----------



## Roaches

I'm hoping they offer sleeved cables by default like they've done with the NEX 1500W. Would be instant buy, though I'll wait until new high powered GPUs to be out before committing to one.


----------



## VSG

Be sure to let @EVGA-JacobF know of your interest!


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Will look into it, no promises though







We do plan on providing the same beefy custom power cable that was on the NEX1500 though.


----------



## VSG

The same one that comes with the 1600G2? That thing is pretty beefy all right:


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The same one that comes with the 1600G2? That thing is pretty beefy all right:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


whats the gauge of wires on that - ought to say such as 12AWG or 10AWG.


----------



## VSG

Haven't tested it just yet, but I am going to guess 12 AWG based on the flex. To be honest, even 14 AWG is plenty enough. Corsair ships the same 14 AWG cord with their ax1500i that they use for the ax760i and I haven't heard anyone complain so far.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

12AWG


----------



## VSG




----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Haven't tested it just yet, but I am going to guess 12 AWG based on the flex. To be honest, even 14 AWG is plenty enough. Corsair ships the same 14 AWG cord with their ax1500i that they use for the ax760i and I haven't heard anyone complain so far.


tnx. donno why at first it looked it could be 10awg.









and yeah, 14awg can carry ~3K watts, at least short distances, without a problem.


----------



## LiquidHaus

@EVGA-JacobF











(but seriously, please. it's holding up my build)


----------



## Kimir

I see the 1600G2 appeared on the EU store and is in stock, but there is two part numbers:
120-G2-1600-X2
120-G2-1600-X3
both priced at 300€, something is off here... one of them as the 1000P2 spec. pdf and the other one the 1300G2 spec. pdf when using the compare box.
I notice the cables picture difference, the X3 has the british wall plug, maybe that's the difference eh?


----------



## VSG

I would imagine that's the only difference. You getting one?

I am surprised it wasn't a 1:1 conversion of USD to euro, that seems like a good price.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah, 300€ is still lower than the AX1200i








I'm gonna wait october/november before I get any of them (G2 or P2/T2 if they are released by then), no need right now, can't bench much in summer lol.
I should look for either an AC for my room and/or a chiller for the rig, but I plan to change my car, so I'm not in any hurry.


----------



## Silent Scone

Just bought the 1600wg2 to replace my Superflower1200w plat. That will be going in my bench bed.

Three Titan Blacks right on the limit at 1300w when overclocked.


----------



## levontraut

Hi Guys

I know EVGA is a good brand with GPU's and MoBo's but how are these PSU's?

the one i am looking at is the 750 G

http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/651wto850w/120-pg-0750-gr.html

is this one ok or must I look at something else?

what the biggest seller for me is the 9 sata and 6 molex


----------



## Blaise170

It uses a Superflower Leadex platform for its OEM. You can't get much better quality.


----------



## VSG

Nah, the NEX750G is based on the FSP Aurum Gold.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> It uses a Superflower Leadex platform for its OEM. You can't get much better quality.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah, the NEX750G is based on the FSP Aurum Gold.


you guys have lost me.

It just needs to support 14 mechanical hard drives 1 SSD and GPU 550Ti


----------



## Blaise170

Oh didn't know he linked the NEX. Didn't mean to lose you. Get the SuperNOVA G2 or P2, not that one you linked.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Oh didn't know he linked the NEX. Didn't mean to lose you. Get the SuperNOVA G2 or P2, not that one you linked.


what is the difference please?


----------



## VSG

One is good, the other is better. If the 750G2 is within your budget, go for it. Else, the NEX 750G will be just fine.


----------



## levontraut

well my current 450 corsair is fine.. I am only getting this one as I am getting a new case tomorrow and I think the PSU cables will be to sort.

I am get ting the fractal design r4 xl


----------



## VSG

Try it out with your current PSU first and see. You can also just get SATA extensions for power and longer SATA cables for data as well.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> what is the difference please?


NEX aka G1 is poop and the G2 is great, NEX aka G1 is a rebranded FSP Aurum which is not very good there is a whole thread on it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g

G2 is a rebranded Super Flower Leadex which is very very good, its like looking at two cars one is a beat up old Lada and the other is a brand new Ferrari
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> well my current 450 corsair is fine.. I am only getting this one as I am getting a new case tomorrow and I think the PSU cables will be to sort.
> 
> I am get ting the fractal design r4 xl


I hope its not an RM if it is then here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> NEX aka G1 is poop and the G2 is great, NEX aka G1 is a rebranded FSP Aurum which is not very good there is a whole thread on it
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g
> 
> G2 is a rebranded Super Flower Leadex which is very very good, its like looking at two cars one is a beat up old Lada and the other is a brand new Ferrari
> I hope its not an RM if it is then here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu


cheers dude.

I am not to sure what it is TBH.... all it is doing is running my 1 HDD's and 1 ssd

I looked on my ups on peak load and it is something like 300 watts full load.

I belive it is this one

http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/cx-series-cx430m-modular-atx-power-supply-430-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-psu


----------



## thanos999

former evga g2 owner that was recalled and replaced with a evga tshirt and a nice new p2 power supply thats got 9 years 6 mounths left on the garantee

can i join the club pretty please


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> cheers dude.
> 
> I am not to sure what it is TBH.... all it is doing is running my 1 HDD's and 1 ssd
> 
> I looked on my ups on peak load and it is something like 300 watts full load.
> 
> I belive it is this one
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/cx-series-cx430m-modular-atx-power-supply-430-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-psu


Why not just get a nice 450W XFX or Seasonic then? 750 will be overkill.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Why not just get a nice 450W XFX or Seasonic then? 750 will be overkill.


at the same price tage / specs the one I linked is right for me... that is why I opted for that one.

9 sata and 6 molex.

I am wanting to go to the shop and buy it today but I am not sure now.

http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/651wto850w/120-pg-0750-gr.html


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> at the same price tage / specs the one I linked is right for me... that is why I opted for that one.
> 
> 9 sata and 6 molex.
> 
> I am wanting to go to the shop and buy it today but I am not sure now.
> 
> http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/651wto850w/120-pg-0750-gr.html


Dont buy its not very good.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Dont buy its not very good.


Even with the 10year


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> Even with the 10year


A turd is still a turd even if its backed with 10 years from EVGA.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A turd is still a turd even if its backed with 10 years from EVGA.


Fair enough

Thank You to all with the input

I will give rep to all when I get home


----------



## mgdman546

Hi everybody I had a question about the 1000W P2 which I recently upgraded to.

I am trying to reduce the amount of sleeving and cables in my case and want to know if its ok to use the 2 supplied vga cables that have a 6+2 pin and 6 pin on the same connector to the psu.

On my previous power supply I had to use two 6+2 pin cables because that was all it had. So my question is will there be too much load on the wires in the single cable vs. the 2 I previously used.

I would use both cables one to power each graphics card which evga gtx 770 sc acx; however I have both water cooled with custom bios, a 350W tdp, 1.3V, and overclocked to 1400mhz.

They draw more power than stock obviously (not sure how much) so that was my main concern. Appreciate any help or suggestions.

Thanks.


----------



## VSG

How much power are those GPUs consuming? If you have a AC power draw measuring unit, check the wattage when the GPUs are at load compared to at idle. If higher than 200w each (400w total), then I would recommend going with discrete cables to be on the safe side.


----------



## mgdman546

Thanks for the quick reply, I was thinking along the same lines. I will get out the multimeter and check my current draw and calculate the wattage from that.

Thanks again.


----------



## VSG

No problem, I doubt those 770s are consuming a lot of power given the GK104 core but you never know!


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> NEX aka G1 is poop and the G2 is great, NEX aka G1 is a rebranded FSP Aurum which is not very good there is a whole thread on it
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g
> 
> G2 is a rebranded Super Flower Leadex which is very very good, its like looking at two cars one is a beat up old Lada and the other is a brand new Ferrari
> I hope its not an RM if it is then here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu


sorry I just had a relook

It is a corsair 400 cx

+ Rep to all as promised


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> sorry I just had a relook
> 
> It is a corsair 400 cx
> 
> + Rep to all as promised


Thats an old Seasonic made unit


----------



## Silent Scone

Mines here


----------



## VSG

Mind taking a picture of the power cord, especially with the UK adapter?


----------



## Silent Scone

Uh, not right now! Still at work









Wasn't planning on fitting it for awhile lol. Can do later if I have to.


----------



## VSG

Sounds good, thanks!


----------



## midnytwarrior

Hi All!

Can I join the club?

I just received mine today. Got it from the EVGA early adapters program.




Again, Thank you EVGA!









Now waiting for the Caselabs case where I would be putting this beastly power supply!


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mind taking a picture of the power cord, especially with the UK adapter?


Quick snap for you <3

That is what one would call a 'proper cable'


----------



## VSG

Ok thanks. I wanted to see if they had the same 12 guage wire with the 220V circuits as well


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Yup, all of the 1600's have them


----------



## VSG

Cool, thanks for the confirmation!


----------



## Silent Scone

Decided to fit it today. Who knew the 900D was small? lol.


----------



## VSG

Of course the 900D is small, CaseLabs FTW!


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Of course the 900D is small, CaseLabs FTW!


It didn't feel small when I bought it







.

I've no room for the Magnum here, I chin scratched about buying one for quite sometime







. Full radded out though and a 1080 Nova to boot


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Of course the 900D is small, CaseLabs FTW!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> It didn't feel small when I bought it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I've no room for the Magnum here, I chin scratched about buying one for quite sometime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Full radded out though and a 1080 Nova to boot


how do you think i'll feel when i finally install my 1600 in my 800D on saturday? lol not excited about having to move a bunch of stuff around but i need tha powaaaaaa


----------



## daddyd302

I just joined the club a few days ago. I did return the 850 G2 for the 1000 P2.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyd302*
> 
> I just joined the club a few days ago. I did return the 850 G2 for the 1000 P2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


since you now have enough power for adding a disco ball . . where is it?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> since you now have enough power for adding a disco ball . . where is it?


That was funny in a good way. Thanks for the laugh this morning.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyd302*
> 
> I just joined the club a few days ago. I did return the 850 G2 for the 1000 P2.


Why did you change 850 G2 for 1000 P2?

Is 850W not enough for dual GPU (770/280x)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> at the same price tage / specs the one I linked is right for me... that is why I opted for that one.
> 
> 9 sata and 6 molex.
> 
> I am wanting to go to the shop and buy it today but I am not sure now.
> 
> http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/651wto850w/120-pg-0750-gr.html


Don't buy the NEX series, they suck. It's the first EVGA branded PSUs that suck.
Check jonnyguru or other decent reviews/tests.
I would suggest a Leadex based PSU or if you like squeaky coils try Seasonic.

---

After having two squeaky whiny Seasonics G-650 that made noise like a dying duck. Returned both and got an EVGA 850 G2.
Will see if it makes undesirable noises too but so far when I plugged it in with the tester it seemed quieter.

Although, when I unpacked it and took the PSU I hear click clickity click sound in it as something is loose and bouncing around inside of it as I move and turn the PSU around still in it's cloth package.
Shook it upside down to get what was making the ugly noise out and behold what it was. A blob of freakin' solder!




Seriously a blob of solder. Placed it on the PSU and took pictures. It's not very small either, a good cooked grain of rice, like a head of a small screw.

Shined flashlight inside the PSU but can't see much, everything seemed in order and on tester it seemed to behave normal. It seems to click, make some sound when turned on and off but that was about it, I hope it's not some protection tripping, fan spins fine.
Should I be worried, should the PSU output normally even when it is not loaded and it's only turned on? I know older PSUs need at least some minimum load to turn on or work correctly.

Will plug it to my computer tomorrow, hopefully it works and I don't have to exchange a third PSU, because seriously the shop might not love me anymore, returning PSUs one after another.

EVGA/Super Flower quality control, poor?

Otherwise it looks nice, much better packaging, accessories and cable lengths than Seasonic where I was also worried if I will be able to plug the CPU 8pin or not.
The PSU could be shorter there is unused space near the exhaust grill. Too bad, shorter would be better.


----------



## daddyd302

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Why did you change 850 G2 for 1000 P2?
> 
> Is 850W not enough for dual GPU (770/280x)?


I was gonna buy it and use it on my other pc and move the Corsair 1200AX over to the new pc. Then I opened it up and was like DAMN that's one great looking psu! So I decided to put it in my Corsair 760T and since I was running with a black/red motherboard combo, I wanted to try the EVGA 1300 G2 with the black/red cables. Reading the reviews on it, I decide to go for the 1000 P2 because the fan was quieter on it versus the 1300.

It ran my system fine with 2 OC 780ti, and OC 4790K, so it's more then enough power.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> since you now have enough power for adding a disco ball . . where is it?


I couldn't find one that fits.....


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyd302*
> 
> I couldn't find one that fits.....


http://www.amazon.com/Rhode-Island-Novelty-ELMBA02-Mirror/dp/B000Q4AINY/


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyd302*
> 
> I was gonna buy it and use it on my other pc and move the Corsair 1200AX over to the new pc. Then I opened it up and was like DAMN that's one great looking psu! So I decided to put it in my Corsair 760T and since I was running with a black/red motherboard combo, I wanted to try the EVGA 1300 G2 with the black/red cables. Reading the reviews on it, I decide to go for the 1000 P2 because the fan was quieter on it versus the 1300.
> 
> It ran my system fine with 2 OC 780ti, and OC 4790K, so it's more then enough power.


Yeah I just went over jonnyguru reviews and the 1000/1200W P2 and 750/850W G2 are more similar than the higher power G2 without semi-fan and all jap caps. Unless the platinums cost way a lot more they are a no brainer. All in all all of them seem as excellent PSUs. Only wonder if they will stop at 750W or some day release a 650W version which seems more useful than the middle of the road 750W that seems too much for single GPU and too little for dual GPU. SF has a 650W version but costs as much as EVGA one power level up.

The 850W can run dual OC 780ti and OC 4790K?








Thanks at least I know what this unit can handle if need be in the future.
Quote:


> I couldn't find one that fits.....


There you go.

---

Question to all, do I need to register the PSU to get the 10 year warranty?
If so where?

Not that I need to since the shop gave 10 years warranty for it so I can apply warranty there if need be, but who knows if the shops will exist in 10 years right? So better check and register with EVGA I think.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> That was funny in a good way. Thanks for the laugh this morning.


YVW. my OCN life will be complete when someone finds a post of mine sig worthy.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyd302*
> 
> I couldn't find one that fits.....


ask and you shall recieve:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Rhode-Island-Novelty-ELMBA02-Mirror/dp/B000Q4AINY/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> There you go.


still needs a motor tho . .

http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=13928

now for something with a 1:1,000 gear ratio.








Quote:


> Question to all, do I need to register the PSU to get the 10 year warranty?
> If so where?


yes, on EVGA's website. make an account and register product. having an image of the receipt is also needed.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah I just went over jonnyguru reviews and the 1000/1200W P2 and 750/850W G2 are more similar than the higher power G2 without semi-fan and all jap caps. Unless the platinums cost way a lot more they are a no brainer. All in all all of them seem as excellent PSUs. Only wonder if they will stop at 750W or some day release a 650W version which seems more useful than the middle of the road 750W that seems too much for single GPU and too little for dual GPU. SF has a 650W version but costs as much as EVGA one power level up.
> 
> The 850W can run dual OC 780ti and OC 4790K?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks at least I know what this unit can handle if need be in the future.
> There you go.
> 
> ---
> 
> Question to all, do I need to register the PSU to get the 10 year warranty?
> If so where?
> 
> Not that I need to since the shop gave 10 years warranty for it so I can apply warranty there if need be, but who knows if the shops will exist in 10 years right? So better check and register with EVGA I think.


For most people, a 500W is plenty for single GPU and 750W is enough for dual, assuming that they aren't doing heavy overclocks.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> For most people, a 500W is plenty for single GPU and 750W is enough for dual, assuming that they aren't doing heavy overclocks.


Yeah 550W would be enough for me, but finding a good 550W PSU worth it's money... good luck.
Settled for 650W Seasonic G series to have some reserve if need be, but both I got I didn't like, squeal, whine, high pitched noise on USB (5Vsb) load when PC was off, ...

And the EVGA G2s are cheaper than Seasonic for the same power. I think the original SF Leadex costs about equal to Seasonic G series. At least here in Europe.
Still prone to sell out for a week or two between supply batches. Had to wait before it was in stock again, seemed quite sold out across EU.

Now onto trying the EVGA 850 G2. Been modding my case to fit the fan intake.
I don't think the fan will spin for me in the ECO mode, using "only" 4690K and 280x. Fanless yay!


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah 550W would be enough for me, but finding a good 550W PSU worth it's money... good luck.
> Settled for 650W Seasonic G series to have some reserve if need be, but both I got I didn't like, squeal, whine, high pitched noise on USB (5Vsb) load when PC was off, ...
> 
> Now onto trying the EVGA 850 G2. Been modding my case to fit the fan intake.
> 
> And the EVGA G2s are cheaper than Seasonic for the same power. I think the original SF Leadex costs about equal to Seasonic G series. At least here in Europe.
> Still prone to sell out for a week or two between supply batches. Had to wait before it was in stock again, seemed quite sold out across EU.


XFX (Seasonic) makes pretty good 550W PSUs, though at the price you can usually find 650W PSUs.


----------



## JackCY

XFX almost not available here :|
I know there are some XFX Pro Core XXX Black versions but if I remember well most are bronze, not gold. Sure I can find a shop where I can buy them same as Super Flower PSUs but the gold version costs a lot more than Seasonic and EVGA.

Anyway, running the EVGA 850 G2 now and it is, behold, dead silent, #@!_ yeah.
Let me stop all the other fans and turn the PC off and see if the USB keyboard and mouse connected make it do some weird high pitched sound as the second Seasonic G-650 did.

So far, I have to turn off the loud laptop to hear anything from the PC. brb

No noise at all, I can hear the HDD spinning and that's it. No noise when I load the CPU nor GPU nor both, no coil whine at all, well done. Those Seasonic G-650s whined like a dying duck, so much coil whine it was louder not only than HDD but all my fans at full speed and I could still hear the whine clearly.
I don't say the Seasonics are bad in terms of voltage regulation, I bet they are good, but they whine and whine because Seasonic cannot learn how to fix the coil cores so they don't resonate.

Plus EVGA 750 G2 costs about the same as Seasonic G-650...
I got EVGA 850 G2 instead as RMA since they don't sell the 750 version, might not even have to pay the little extra since 850 is more expensive by $20 or so, will see.

This is what I expect from a PSU, dead silent, I don't mean the fan, I mean no noise from the PSU's electronics at idle and at any load.

No noise when turned off.

Now a question, should I keep the PSU inverted as EVGA suggests so the fan is on the bottom of the case where I made a nice big hole for the big fan.
Or should I place the fan side inside the case since I will run it in ECO mode fanless and none of my loads can turn the fan on? Having positive pressure in the case, which would push a bit of the air through the PSU out.
I have it ghettoed on table now and I can feel that the PSU emits a bit of heat even just web browsing. Although the air from inside the case might be even worse hey?
To the bottom it goes then, since I'm putting all this work to make the hole for the PSU fan already.

---

*Pics for the club, if someone can add me that would be great, I don't see any form to add myself.
EVGA 850 G2, 220-G2-0850-XR:*


----------



## one80

How are the 1000 Platinum's noise wise? Anyone been able to compare to an equivalent Seasonic?


----------



## LA_Kings_Fan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *one80*
> 
> How are the 1000 Platinum's noise wise? Anyone been able to compare to an equivalent Seasonic?


Can't even tell mine is running







though that might be because I've also got my AMD R9 290X blower fan running at 60%-75% to keep cool







'til I can water cool everything









=================

ANYONE know of anybody doing up customized PSU stickers for these like they are for the CORSAIR Units here http://www.overclock.net/t/1174461/custom-corsair-psu-labels ?


----------



## VSG

Thanks to a minor mixup by the EVGA RMA department, I now have 3 sets of stock EVGA cables for the 750G2 lol. The replacement 750G2 is a peach too


----------



## Silent Scone

Loving my 1600G2









Only managed to pull 1380w out of it though with my Greenlight Titan Black setup


----------



## GameZForeverZ

Hey guys, I have a chance to pick up an EVGA Supernova G2 1000W for $100, is it worth it?


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GameZForeverZ*
> 
> EVGA Supernova G2 1000W for $100, is it worth it?


It's not worth it at all if you don't need it.







It's *very* worth it if you need it.


----------



## GameZForeverZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> It's not worth it at all if you don't need it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's *very* worth it if you need it.


I guess I should have asked the question differently.
I plan on adding two more GTX 670s to my rig in the near future.

Is it a good deal on the specific power supply?









Thanks!


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GameZForeverZ*
> 
> I guess I should have asked the question differently.
> I plan on adding two more GTX 670s to my rig in the near future.
> 
> Is it a good deal on the specific power supply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


It's $40 less than you can get at any other online retailers, so yes it's a good deal.

I wouldn't recommend adding two more 670s though, 1 more yes... but three way SLI isn't worth it. Especially with a 2500K.


----------



## GameZForeverZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> It's $40 less than you can get at any other online retailers, so yes it's a good deal.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend adding two more 670s though, 1 more yes... but three way SLI isn't worth it. Especially with a 2500K.


Hmm, well I probably don't need 1000W then.

Thank you


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GameZForeverZ*
> 
> Hmm, well I probably don't need 1000W then.
> 
> Thank you


I would still recommend you buy it though. It's only $5 more than the 750W G2, and is actually the same price as the best value 650W options (Seasonic G and XFX XTR).


----------



## GameZForeverZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> I would still recommend you buy it though. It's only $5 more than the 750W G2, and is actually the same price as the best value 650W options (Seasonic G and XFX XTR).


Well that's good, because I just ordered it!
Thanks for the help! It can never hurt to have a little extra headroom.


----------



## Baasha

When is the release date for the 1600 T2?


----------



## thanos999

well accordng to this dealer 18 august

http://www.scan.co.uk/shop/computer-hardware/all/power-supplies/full-modular-1kw-upwards

just cick on the picture off the evga 1600 and a pop up shows you the date


----------



## VSG

Last I heard was September actually!


----------



## JackCY

1600W
Quote:


> Internal +12V Rails: Single Rail
> Rail 1 +12V: 133.3 A


What are you guys welding with it?


----------



## 96halx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 1600W
> What are you guys welding with it?


Use that one to weld your case together









I'm the proud recently new owner of a SuperNova 1300 G2...I'll try and get a picture of it later today...6 am and not in bed yet


----------



## JackCY

I hope I don't need to weld anything now.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Need some help please.

Parvum S2.0 Black and Red, Maximus Gene, Asus GTX 780, Red Ram.

Red or Black cable set?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Need some help please.
> 
> Parvum S2.0 Black and Red, Maximus Gene, Asus GTX 780, Red Ram.
> 
> Red or Black cable set?


Black goes with everything, even if you change up the motherboard, GPU and RAM later.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Bought the black set. Just need to get the case now.


----------



## evoll88

After some help from Twerk and some other members on here I upgraded my ax850 to a evga 1300w g2. I needed the extra power since I bought 2 780 ti's off of here that had skynet bios. So far it is working good and let me overclock my ti's to +225 core and +200 memory with 1.212v. Here is some pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## one80

I can't believe that in this day and age I can't buy a cable set from EVGA US (as EVGA AU don't carry them)...


----------



## evoll88

Can you order them from newegg? That is where I bought my evga white sleeved cables from.


----------



## shilka

G2 1600 watts review is up
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=391


----------



## DoktorCreepy

^ Interesting that its a new Super Flower platform with only some similarities to the Leadex.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I didn't know that either.


----------



## shilka

Just found that out as well, but really 0,5% voltage regulation on the 12v rail under 1600 watts load is really really good, only one out there that does it better is the AX1500i but its only 0,4% better which is better yes but not huge amonuts of better, ripple is under 15mv on all rails all the time but thats not new compared to the Leadex but still very very good.

Efficiency is actually Platinum levels both during cold and hot testing so i wonder why not just drop the G2 1600 watts and sell it as the P2 1600 watts?


----------



## VSG

This PSU at load will break >95% of US domestic circuits









1600P2 will have the eco mode but not sure what distinguishes it from the 1600T2 other than the efficiency (if that!).


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Efficiency is actually Platinum levels both during cold and hot testing so i wonder why not just drop the G2 1600 watts and sell it as the P2 1600 watts?


Mine was right on the edge. Better from a marketing standpoint to have only a few Gold units that hit Platinum than a bunch of Platinum units that only hit Gold.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> Mine was right on the edge. Better from a marketing standpoint to have only a few Gold units that hit Platinum than a bunch of Platinum units that only hit Gold.


Ah yes same thing Cooler Master did with the V series, but i wonder if the G2 can do that well how much better is the P2? and is the P2 in fact cherry picked G2 units?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> Mine was right on the edge. Better from a marketing standpoint to have only a few Gold units that hit Platinum than a bunch of Platinum units that only hit Gold.


Good point. Other than the in line filtering on the AC receptacle, what's different in here compared to the Leadex? I was pretty surprised at the size of the coils when I got these myself:












You should consider taking points off for the 15A+ draw- that's more of an issue than a random ATX connector coming loose in my opinion.


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good point. Other than the in line filtering on the AC receptacle, what's different in here compared to the Leadex?


Everything up to the main switchers. Still not sure what's going on with the PFC section and only the one non heatsinked 30A bridge rectifier.


----------



## VSG

Jacob said the new platform is only for the 1600W units at this point.


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Jacob said the new platform is only for the 1600W units at this point.


Not a bad plan. The PCB is marked for up to 2kW, but that won't ever happen in North America, and the Leadex design is more than adequate (not to mention smaller) at lower power levels.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> Not a bad plan. The PCB is marked for up to 2kW, but that won't ever happen in North America, and the Leadex design is more than adequate (not to mention smaller) at lower power levels.


Yup. For those who do, dual PSUs are still the best solution. Heck, 2 1300G2s are less expensive than 1 1600G2 today.

Did you happen to notice if the fan on the 1600G2 was quantifiably better than the one on the 1300G2? It could be placebo but I felt this fan had more air flow while being quieter.


----------



## istudy92

I want to admit something on this forum,
I bought the 1300W when it first came out, I BEARLY USE IT to its fullest potential haha.

All I own is a 780, and I sold it for a 670 in order to upgrade to maxwell.

And and and and you know what scares me??

That maxwell will use LESS power!!! So when I SLI it, it will still not reach 1300w!!!

=[

what can I do to use it all up?!
Should I just buy 2 295x?? lol.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> I want to admit something on this forum,
> I bought the 1300W when it first came out, I BEARLY USE IT to its fullest potential haha.
> 
> All I own is a 780, and I sold it for a 670 in order to upgrade to maxwell.
> 
> And and and and you know what scares me??
> 
> That maxwell will use LESS power!!! So when I SLI it, it will still not reach 1300w!!!
> 
> =[
> 
> what can I do to use it all up?!
> Should I just buy 2 295x?? lol.


Triple or quad GPU









What else are these PSUs for. 3+ GPU gaming or mining.
Quote:


> Heck, 2 1300G2s are less expensive than 1 1600G2 today.


That's nuts price then. I would still probably pickup 1000 P2 or something instead if so much power is needed instead of 1300 G2.

---

What's up with the power issues in US for something puny as a 1600W PSU?
You can't plug in kitchen appliances that eat 2000W? Or even 2200W which is the theoretical limit here I think.
10A * 220V = 2200W tada!

So you guys run 15A breakers instead of 20A?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Triple or quad GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What else are these PSUs for. 3+ GPU gaming or mining.
> That's nuts price then. I would still probably pickup 1000 P2 or something instead if so much power is needed instead of 1300 G2.
> 
> ---
> 
> What's up with the power issues in US for something puny as a 1600W PSU?
> You can't plug in kitchen appliances that eat 2000W? Or even 2200W which is the theoretical limit here I think.
> 10A * 220V = 2200W tada!
> 
> So you guys run 15A breakers instead of 20A?


The US started on 120V and Europe came later so they started on 240V. We can run higher wattage appliances, but we have to install special outlets for them.


----------



## one80

Just picked up and installed my 1000P2 - very impressed with the quality!


----------



## afokke

How possible is it to take the outer casing off of an EVGA 1000 G2 to paint it?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> How possible is it to take the outer casing off of an EVGA 1000 G2 to paint it?


Very easy, as long as you are ok with the voided warranty. There are some screws under the "Warranty void if removed" stickers. Another way would be to make a cover on the outside in the color of your choice.


----------



## afokke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Very easy, as long as you are ok with the voided warranty. There are some screws under the "Warranty void if removed" stickers. Another way would be to make a cover on the outside in the color of your choice.


I see a total of 8 screws, of course I don't have a screwdriver that will fit them lol. Do you know what types and sizes of screws it uses


----------



## VSG

This one above works perfectly. I am pretty terrible about driver names. I think that's a 1.5mm Hex driver? Sorry about those poor shots, my camera is at home.


----------



## 96halx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> I see a total of 8 screws, of course I don't have a screwdriver that will fit them lol. Do you know what types and sizes of screws it uses


It'll be a torx bit (going off of the picture above and memory







), cheapest option would be to get a set of them from your local auto parts store, most likely (I got a set of ~10 for $10-$15)


----------



## VSG

Yes, Torx was what I was looking for. I had even typed in "Torq" in the post above and then realized that made no sense


----------



## afokke

thank you reps for you all


----------



## Blaise170

I can't say for sure if the bits will fit or not, but I bought a Steelex set that I use all the time. The set is only $14 on Amazon with Prime. If interested, I can check to see if one of the Steelex Torx bits will fit.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Additional sleeved cables for 1600W PSU will be available next week.


----------



## VSG

Any chance of bundling cable combs in the same colors as the sleeved kit in the future? What about the a la carte cable options?


----------



## tolis626

Hey guys, proud owner of a 1300G2 here!









I just wanted to ask a question. Does the fan on this thing ever stop? Right now my computer is idling, all fans are dead and the only things that produce noise are the Asetek pump from my Corsair H110 and the PSU's fan. I can't do much about the pump, but what's up with the PSU fan? Aren't these things supposed to be silent and stuff?


----------



## VSG

Nah man, the 1000G2, 1300G2 and 1600G2 don't have a passive mode.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah man, the 1000G2, 1300G2 and 1600G2 don't have a passive mode.


Really? Hmm... That's a shame. At least they're not really loud. They just produce a "whoosing" sound, like wind. Nothing too annoying, but it's there. Oh well...


----------



## VSG

Want me to make it worse? At idle, the 1300G2 has the loudest fan of the three


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Want me to make it worse? At idle, the 1300G2 has the loudest fan of the three


You're just jelly. Loud PSU fans are the best thing since... Loud case fans? 

I suppose I can live with it, though. My system is noisy-ish and sits far from me anyway. I just noticed today after 2 weeks of having that, we'll, with every fan dead, something's making noise. In EVGA's defense, the Asetek pump is more noisy and downright annoying.


----------



## fateswarm

Mine is fine on normal loads (I don't have a 2nd GPU though). It may play a role that I have a good case though.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Mine is fine on normal loads (I don't have a 2nd GPU though). It may play a role that I have a good case though.


Yeah, it's not like it's unbearable or by any means loud. It's just there. It's a fan spinning at some speed higher than too low speeds. I was just curious.

On another note, I don't have one dGPU yet, let alone two (although these are the plans







). My case is also very good. It's a Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Best case I've owned by far.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> How possible is it to take the outer casing off of an EVGA 1000 G2 to paint it?


Don't disassemble and use a plastidip








You can peel it off anytime. Hopefully without the warranty void if removed sticker. Which I find ridiculous since these are easy to remove and apply back so they are pointless and one might even peel them off by accident if the glue is not good or the unit is hot.


----------



## LiquidHaus

thought i'd show off my 1600 g2


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Additional sleeved cables for the 1600W PSU available now http://www.evga.com/Products/ProductList.aspx?type=10&family=Power+Supplies&chipset=+Power+Supply+Cable+Set+(Individually+Sleeved)


----------



## VSG




----------



## VSG

Techpowerup review of 1600G2: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_1600/


----------



## shilka

Not a G2 but JG reviews the 750 watts B2
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=393

Its a Super Flower Golden Green with lower efficiency so its actually not bad like i feared it would be.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Not a G2 but JG reviews the 750 watts B2
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=393
> 
> Its a Super Flower Golden Green with lower efficiency so its actually not bad like i feared it would be.


Yep I had a Rosewill LIGHTNING which was a 1300W Golden Green platform and I really liked it, it was just too much power for my needs. Haven't read the review yet, but I imagine it will be rated similarly to the LIGHTNING.


----------



## Austel

Hello,

Currently I'm looking at buying either the EVGA Supernova 1000w G2 or the 1000w P2 model. I'm not sure if the extra cost for platinum rating is worth it since both have had really good reviews. In Australia there's around a $40 difference between the two models. In the Johnny Guru review I noticed a comment saying that either one should be ok. Is it worth paying an extra $40 to get the platinum rating and quieter fan operation?

My PC specs.
i74770k (4.5ghz)
GTX 770 sli (overclocked) - Upgrading soon.
1 x 256gb SSD
1 x 3gb HDD
1 x DVD /blu ray burner
H100i cooler

Thanks.


----------



## looniam

a supernova 850w G2 would be PLENTY for that set up and $70 to $100 less expensive.


----------



## Blaise170

He would actually be fine with a quality 500W. Unless he has plans for SLI/Crossfire in his upgrade, there is no reason to get more unless he will be volt modding.


----------



## looniam

that would be for a SLI set up with 770s overclocked to the heavens


----------



## Austel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> a supernova 850w G2 would be PLENTY for that set up and $70 to $100 less expensive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> He would actually be fine with a quality 500W. Unless he has plans for SLI/Crossfire in his upgrade, there is no reason to get more unless he will be volt modding.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> that would be for a SLI set up with 770s overclocked to the heavens


thanks for the response.

I'm already running the GTX 770's in SLi and I've set power draw to max and memory to +200. This results in 1260 boost block as well. I was considering a 1000w PSU as some reviews are indicating a 300w+ power draw for one card at stock settings. (refer to link http://www.techspot.com/review/678-gainward-geforce-gtx-770/page8.html). Also on the gainward site (http://www.gainward.com/main/product/vga/pro/p00912/p00912_datasheet_152151a56bc6c9d92.pdf?s=286) it lists the psu requirement as 600w minimum and 42amp on the 12v rail. So considering I've overclocked the CPU, and both GPUs it seems that 850w might be to close to the limit? Thanks.


----------



## looniam

the 300+ is for the whole system and likely measured at the wall w/o accounting for PSU efficiency. so you're really looking at less than 300 watts.

the card will use ~200 watts. doesn't matter what you throw at it, the power target is pretty much locked down and will only raise a few percent. and unless you're putting water blocks on them, you won't want go higher anyhow - vrms go BOOM!

even though i believe guru3D is a little heavy handed with their recommendations at times:
GeForce GTX 770 SLI review - Power Consumption
Quote:


> GeForce GTX 770 2x SLI - On your average system the cards require you to have a 700~800 Watt power supply unit as minimum.


i have a supernova 750w G2 and wouldn't hesitated SLIing another bios flashed 780 . . .just saying.

edit:

but please don't let me stop you from getting what you want, the worse that can happen is a bit of harm to your wallet.


----------



## Austel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> the 300+ is for the whole system and likely measured at the wall w/o accounting for PSU efficiency. so you're really looking at less than 300 watts.
> 
> the card will use ~200 watts. doesn't matter what you throw at it, the power target is pretty much locked down and will only raise a few percent. and unless you're putting water blocks on them, you won't want go higher anyhow - vrms go BOOM!
> 
> even though i believe guru3D is a little heavy handed with their recommendations at times:
> GeForce GTX 770 SLI review - Power Consumption
> i have a supernova 750w G2 and wouldn't hesitated SLIing another bios flashed 780 . . .just saying.
> 
> edit:
> 
> but please don't let me stop you from getting what you want, the worse that can happen is a bit of harm to your wallet.


I'm all for saving some coin







I wish I had found the review provided in your post before asking the question about a 1000W psu for 770 sli.

When I first built my AMD PC I made a poor choice with the first PSU so didnt want to make the same mistake again. Now that I need a new one for my Intel build I didnt want make a poor choice again from my lack of experience with the PSU side of things.

To everyone that replied, I appreciate the help and will just go with the 850W G2 as I found a really good deal that's close to the 750w price and will save almost $100. Thanks.


----------



## fateswarm

Don't listen to the nonsense that 500W is enough (he probably didn't listen that you want SLI and overclocks or he doesn't know). The PSU experts at realhardtech suggest 850W. This does not mean it's "just" enough, but that's the point, it gives a little headroom to not be on the verge of failure (as many inexperienced people seem to suggest, "oh, you'll be fine, you only need 999W, just get a 1000W", no).


----------



## fateswarm

I noticed most GPU experts totally ignore the CPU usage. It's very important. This is because on low load it can go as low as 50 or 70W (single thread games for example) or 180W+ (full multithreading), on an i7 mainstream.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I noticed most GPU experts totally ignore the CPU usage. It's very important. This is because on low load it can go as low as 50 or 70W (single thread games for example) or 180W+ (full multithreading), on an i7 mainstream.


180W + ~230W = 410W. This is for a mildly overclocked 770. I didn't notice he said SLI, which is why I stated it as such.


----------



## shilka

Ordered a 750 watts G2 should be here by the end of the week or early next week, ordered a new case as well as my old HAF X is held together with duct tape.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> Don't listen to the nonsense that 500W is enough (he probably didn't listen that you want SLI and overclocks or he doesn't know). The PSU experts at realhardtech suggest 850W. This does not mean it's "just" enough, but that's the point, it gives a little headroom to not be on the verge of failure (as many inexperienced people seem to suggest, "oh, you'll be fine, you only need 999W, just get a 1000W", no).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fateswarm*
> 
> I noticed most GPU experts totally ignore the CPU usage. It's very important. This is because on low load it can go as low as 50 or 70W (single thread games for example) or 180W+ (full multithreading), on an i7 mainstream.


an observation:
that's pretty ironic you point out the difference in power requirements of components after suggesting a site that does. along with your fine example of the fluctuations of an i7 there is also a large difference between an overclocked i7 _system_ of ~180 watts and an AMD 8530 _system_ of ~300.

finding power the consumption(s) of OC'd cpus aren't hard to find in reviews and incorporating some maths skills is even less.


----------



## fateswarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> finding power the consumption(s) of OC'd cpus aren't hard to find in reviews and incorporating some maths skills is even less.


I don't know what you do personally. I was talking about most of the comments on the matter I hear. It seems most people on GPU related discussions totally ignore mentioning the CPU.

It can go from 30W to 180 on intel (on E double plus more). And yes, AMD is nastier too.


----------



## 904bangingsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Ordered a 750 watts G2 should be here by the end of the week or early next week, ordered a new case as well as my old HAF X is held together with duct tape.


What is nice about these psu's, everything is disconnectable , take outside to blow the dust out of em. I love this G2. I love modular.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Austel*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Currently I'm looking at buying either the EVGA Supernova 1000w G2 or the 1000w P2 model. I'm not sure if the extra cost for platinum rating is worth it since both have had really good reviews. In Australia there's around a $40 difference between the two models. In the Johnny Guru review I noticed a comment saying that either one should be ok. Is it worth paying an extra $40 to get the platinum rating and quieter fan operation?
> 
> My PC specs.
> i74770k (4.5ghz)
> GTX 770 sli (overclocked) - Upgrading soon.
> 1 x 256gb SSD
> 1 x 3gb HDD
> 1 x DVD /blu ray burner
> H100i cooler
> 
> Thanks.


I wouldn't go below 850W. If you plan some power craziness then 1000W should cover that.
My rough estimate of max consumption by calculating in head, given you like to boost power/voltage on the GPUs, is 825W.
I wouldn't go for 750W with SLI/CF and OCing CPU and GPUs.

I don't think getting P2 is worth additional $40 unless the G2 lacks fanless mode, I would avoid the models without fanless mode.

I have 850 G2 and so far am happy with it, although not running SLI/CF which means the fan never spins up.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I wouldn't go below 850W. If you plan some power craziness then 1000W should cover that.
> My rough estimate of max consumption by calculating in head, given you like to boost power/voltage on the GPUs, is 825W.
> I wouldn't go for 750W with SLI/CF and OCing CPU and GPUs.
> 
> I don't think getting P2 is worth additional $40 unless the G2 lacks fanless mode, I would avoid the models without fanless mode.
> 
> I have 850 G2 and so far am happy with it, although not running SLI/CF which means the fan never spins up.


1000 watts is way overkill for a system with 2 video cards, unless the cards have volt mods on them its a waste of money, 750 watts is enough.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 1000 watts is way overkill for a system with 2 video cards, unless the cards have volt mods on them its a waste of money, 750 watts is enough.


That's what I said, power craziness








OCed AMD and overvolted/OCed SLI/CF could be one of the power crazinesses.


----------



## tolis626

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Austel*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Currently I'm looking at buying either the EVGA Supernova 1000w G2 or the 1000w P2 model. I'm not sure if the extra cost for platinum rating is worth it since both have had really good reviews. In Australia there's around a $40 difference between the two models. In the Johnny Guru review I noticed a comment saying that either one should be ok. Is it worth paying an extra $40 to get the platinum rating and quieter fan operation?
> 
> My PC specs.
> i74770k (4.5ghz)
> GTX 770 sli (overclocked) - Upgrading soon.
> 1 x 256gb SSD
> 1 x 3gb HDD
> 1 x DVD /blu ray burner
> H100i cooler
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't go below 850W. If you plan some power craziness then 1000W should cover that.
> My rough estimate of max consumption by calculating in head, given you like to boost power/voltage on the GPUs, is 825W.
> I wouldn't go for 750W with SLI/CF and OCing CPU and GPUs.
> 
> I don't think getting P2 is worth additional $40 unless the G2 lacks fanless mode, I would avoid the models without fanless mode.
> 
> I have 850 G2 and so far am happy with it, although not running SLI/CF which means the fan never spins up.
Click to expand...

Well, I bought the 1300G2 and it doesn't have a fanless mode. And I think the 1000G2 is the same. It's not loud by any means, but in a quiet room it is audible. And I find it curious than no one mentions it in reviews (not ones I've read at least). I might have avoided it if I knew, as 1300w for my system is way, WAY overkill. Oh well, for the price I got it for, I'm more than happy.


----------



## JackCY

Jonny must have mentioned it in his reviews, I don't find it mentioned via search but a quick look at pictures and it's obvious. Honestly I look at tables and pictures most often, though jonny reviews are fun to read here and there. The rest, pics and summaries it is for me.
G2 1000 and 1300 have no fanless mode due to no fan control switch.

Although, the controller looks identical and it's only missing the switch.
See that on right, there is a missing connector like this for the switch, 1300 G2



This is from 850 G2:




The board numbers are not equal but close.
Fanless with the connector for switch (850 G2, 750 G2, 1200 P2): 17PW-FAN09DDBAD or 17PW-FAN09DDBAD-1
?????? without the connector for switch (1300 G2, 1000 G2): 17PW-FAN09CDBAD

All they did IMHO is not install the switch to make other/platinum versions more appealing OR it's not in their opinion very great to run Gold units of this wattage passive even though it does monitor temperatures and will turn the fan on when needed based on temps.

I would say happy hacking, "voiding the warranty", install a switch or adjust the connection right on the board, short it if it's not shorted to turn the fanless mode ON.


----------



## VSG

I am tempted to find out more about this and get it done with the 1300G2. No one seems to be interested to get this anyway given it is always on sale so it has become a test PSU for me now.


----------



## shilka

Can i be added to the list?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Can i be added to the list?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


He hasn't updated the list since June.


----------



## shilka

Do we need a new club owner then?


----------



## Blaise170

Perhaps, he was just on 11 hours ago so I'm not sure if he even remembers this thread exists.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Just recieved my P2 1000watt Supernova, I'll get a pic up tomorrow.


----------



## shilka

Project Arios is finished


----------



## wolfwalker

1300 G2 here, any of you guys ever replaced the fan with a quieter one?

I just transferred this PSU from an old big-midtower to a Silverstone FT02, and the PSU noise is by far
the loudest thing in teh box. Near as I can tell it's a fixed speed fan, I never hear it drop even with very little load
and slightly chilly ambient temps. I don't believe the fan is bad, it sounds healthy, just relatively loud.
I have a pile of Noctua NF-12A PWM's around. Shame to void the warranty but this noise is really a drag.


----------



## JackCY

It's not constant.



It only doesn't go below 1000rpm hence it is audible compared to the rest of a system that may run fans at 500rpm idle.

Having a hybrid fan gives you more options:




Especially when your ambient is 20C lower than what the units were tested on.

Voiding warranty only option to make it quieter, try if it can enable hybrid mode and or change the fan.


----------



## wolfwalker

I posted some quick and dirty db readings here.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1395708/evga-power-supplies-information-thread/810


----------



## hellr4isEr

im missing a few of the 8pin to 6+2pin red pci-e cables.. does any1 know where i can find them? EVGA said im SOL.. even some cheap custom made ones would be okay?


----------



## VSG

Does it have to be red? I got plenty of stock EVGA G2/P2/T2 cables if you want- mostly in black.


----------



## hellr4isEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Does it have to be red? I got plenty of stock EVGA G2/P2/T2 cables if you want- mostly in black.


Incoming PM bro


----------



## wolfwalker

Not dissing the G2 at all, but I replaced it with a Corsair HX1000i and it solved my problem.
This PSU will run fanless to 300-400 watts depending on ambient, and even my 9590 at full tilt
under IBT is less than that by half. I went from 41 to barely 38db. Success. But it wasn't cheap.

I tested the 1300 G2 on the bench and with a single sata drive plugged right off the bat the fan RPM, while not overly high,
was just plain loud. I've had a lot of computers in which it wouldn't have bothered me, but in an FT02 with Noctua fans and the 180's
down low it was glaringly loud. It's for sale alone with a brand new black sleeved cable kit...


----------



## ACharmingQuark

I don't think your criticism is at all invalid - noise is a concern for many - just not for me.

My foremost concerns are robustness and a clean and healthy power system over pretty much everything else except maybe value.









EVGA has - with several of their power supplies - given me what I am looking for in a PSU - value, robustness and clean abundant power. Noise - heck I can sleep through any Midwestern t-storm as long as it doesn't send a microburst through the kitchen.

I am not a power supply guru, but I did spend 15 years buying UPS units and learned the field from "the other side" of the power equation. My respect for those of you here on OCN whom have taken the time and care to learn and then impart knowledge is bolstered though by all those here whom know what they want from a PSU and go for product that satisfies those values.

EVGA has a few excellent value PSU models amongst their various lines - buying a 1300 G2 for 139.99 makes my inner purchasing agent smile (a lot.) The fact that there are those here whom see the warts amongst the beauty is why I spend precious time online at OCN.








+REP

ACQ


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah, don't get me wrong I looove the PSU, but I think if they had spent a few bucks on a fan circuit to keep it quit till it's needed they would have opened up some doors.
I hope I find someone that can put it to good use. Maybe a tiny welder..


----------



## Kimir

Can't hear my 1300g2 fan here, unless I get my head next to the PSU side.
My D5 at full speed is covering its noise I guess.


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah I couldn't either till I got the FT02 and ran the fans down to almost nothing at idle.
I'd have checked the fan speed if my optical tach was working but I don't believe it was over 700ish, it was still loud on teh bench.
Airflow more than mechanical fan noise.


----------



## 96halx

I have my 1300G2 in a Corsair 750D, along with the stock fans and stock Intel cooler, and I can't even tell that the computer is on without looking for lights. Then again, I haven't been overly nice to my ears during my life either


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah I don't trust mine either, so I bought a db meter. 37-38db is my noise floor at my keyboard, the PSU fan under my desk facing to the right it was 41-42, rest of the fans are below 37-38.
Noise is subjective, with it in the lower rear of my midtower I never heard it even with my head down there, but it was very noticeable in this FT02. I don't think it's so much that it's overly noisy just that
everything else is so quiet and it wasn't on the bottom facing down with this Silverstone case. I do say there is no reason for that fan to run at low power usage, they just cheap'd out on fan control.
I don't blame em, but it became a problem in my situation. I wanted to try the P2, but I found better test data on the Corsair relating to noise or lack of, spent enough money on power supplies lately..


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Yeah, don't get me wrong I looove the PSU, but I think if they had spent a few bucks on a fan circuit to keep it quit till it's needed they would have opened up some doors.
> I hope I find someone that can put it to good use. Maybe a tiny welder..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Yeah I don't trust mine either, so I bought a db meter. 37-38db is my noise floor at my keyboard, the PSU fan under my desk facing to the right it was 41-42, rest of the fans are below 37-38.
> Noise is subjective, with it in the lower rear of my midtower I never heard it even with my head down there, but it was very noticeable in this FT02. I don't think it's so much that it's overly noisy just that
> everything else is so quiet and it wasn't on the bottom facing down with this Silverstone case. I do say there is no reason for that fan to run at low power usage, they just cheap'd out on fan control.
> I don't blame em, but it became a problem in my situation. I wanted to try the P2, but I found better test data on the Corsair relating to noise or lack of, spent enough money on power supplies lately..


The fan control is there they only didn't give you the option from the get go to switch it to hybrid mode. It might still work if you modify it yourself, not tested so far probably but you can find pics in reviews, I posted them some page back too.

Maybe you get aerodynamic noise from the case's PSU fan grill or filter. I have mine cut out and there is no aerodynamic noise really that I notice with 850 G2 nor a bottom fan in the case.
The fan is useful even if the power draw is low, otherwise heat builds up, safe but it does. Sure a very slow inaudible fan is fine or some airflow from case's positive pressure. If the fan keeps ramming 1000rpm minimum all the time then that's not so great.


----------



## OldDominion

Has anyone heard any news on the upcoming 1600 P2/T2? I found a thread in the EVGA forums where Jacob had said they would be released in the August/September time frame


----------



## VSG

1600P2 should be anytime now actually.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> The fan control is there they only didn't give you the option from the get go to switch it to hybrid mode. It might still work if you modify it yourself, not tested so far probably but you can find pics in reviews, I posted them some page back too.
> 
> Maybe you get aerodynamic noise from the case's PSU fan grill or filter. I have mine cut out and there is no aerodynamic noise really that I notice with 850 G2 nor a bottom fan in the case.
> The fan is useful even if the power draw is low, otherwise heat builds up, safe but it does. Sure a very slow inaudible fan is fine or some airflow from case's positive pressure. If the fan keeps ramming 1000rpm minimum all the time then that's not so great.


Maybe. I pulled it out and ran it on the bench, still loud. Relatively anyway. I don't think that grill pattern helps matters.


----------



## Blaise170

Is @Philistine ever going to update the OP?


----------



## chronicfx

Hi guys, supernova 1300w G2 owner here. Having an interesting pc issue today. Could be one of a few things but let me start with the symptoms. When I press the power button on the top of my case,

1. LED fans on rads, water cooling pump, case fans (basically all accessories on the 3.3v?? molex lines start up)

2. Motherboard does not start (LED double digit read out for error codes stays blank), nor do I here my spindle drives or dvd drives spin up, but there must be some power to the motherboard because the LED line that seperates the "audio section" (Z97 gigabyte gaming gt) from the rest of the motherboard does light up.

Now I can hold the powerbutton on the top of the case until it powers back down, press it again, it will do the same thing 5 times in a row... So I power it down flip the switch on the back of the PSU to off and walk over to my wall socket which has "test" and "reset" button and press the reset button. I can here a click, and I can hear usb things and printers resetting and such. I flip the switch on the PSU back to on and press the case power button and it powers back up like normal. I ran a couple runs of 3dmark11 and 3dmark Firestrike to make sure all was ok and everything went fine.

I did a software shutdown ate some dinner and came back, pressed the case powerbutton, and I was back to square one with just accessories powering up. So I went straight for the reset at the wall socket and here I am typing on a bootable computer. Kind of strange. Anyone had a problem like this before?

My thoughts:

1. Is there some kind of trigger signal not happening (I pushed in the 24 pin connector on the motherboard again although I have three GPU's in and would have to pull them to check the PSU connected side of the 24 pin. I have the other 24 pin cable too to try (my original was part of that small heatsink RMA they let me keep the accessories form the other PSU)

2. Could it really be a wall socket? I mean how often do those go bad? It is less than a year old.

3. Could it be my motherboard, it was installed on the 2nd of September but has not shown to be problematic thus far.

I do have a backup PSU (Corsair HX850) sitting on a shelf, I could remove two of my gpu's and try that but "what a PITA", lets do that last.

Any ideas, or seen this before? Thanks in advance


----------



## thanos999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Hi guys, supernova 1300w G2 owner here. Having an interesting pc issue today. Could be one of a few things but let me start with the symptoms. When I press the power button on the top of my case,
> 
> 1. LED fans on rads, water cooling pump, case fans (basically all accessories on the 3.3v?? molex lines start up)
> 
> 2. Motherboard does not start (LED double digit read out for error codes stays blank), nor do I here my spindle drives or dvd drives spin up, but there must be some power to the motherboard because the LED line that seperates the "audio section" (Z97 gigabyte gaming gt) from the rest of the motherboard does light up.
> 
> Now I can hold the powerbutton on the top of the case until it powers back down, press it again, it will do the same thing 5 times in a row... So I power it down flip the switch on the back of the PSU to off and walk over to my wall socket which has "test" and "reset" button and press the reset button. I can here a click, and I can hear usb things and printers resetting and such. I flip the switch on the PSU back to on and press the case power button and it powers back up like normal. I ran a couple runs of 3dmark11 and 3dmark Firestrike to make sure all was ok and everything went fine.
> 
> I did a software shutdown ate some dinner and came back, pressed the case powerbutton, and I was back to square one with just accessories powering up. So I went straight for the reset at the wall socket and here I am typing on a bootable computer. Kind of strange. Anyone had a problem like this before?
> 
> My thoughts:
> 
> 1. Is there some kind of trigger signal not happening (I pushed in the 24 pin connector on the motherboard again although I have three GPU's in and would have to pull them to check the PSU connected side of the 24 pin. I have the other 24 pin cable too to try (my original was part of that small heatsink RMA they let me keep the accessories form the other PSU)
> 
> 2. Could it really be a wall socket? I mean how often do those go bad? It is less than a year old.
> 
> 3. Could it be my motherboard, it was installed on the 2nd of September but has not shown to be problematic thus far.
> 
> I do have a backup PSU (Corsair HX850) sitting on a shelf, I could remove two of my gpu's and try that but "what a PITA", lets do that last.
> 
> Any ideas, or seen this before? Thanks in advance


does it happen on the other sockets in the house ?


----------



## chronicfx

Unfortunately I am in an unfinished basement, this 20A socket was put in just for this computer and the verizon box (since your from wales, our cable television provider is verizon) by my electrician. Only other sockets are sump pump, washer/dryer, and furnace receptacle for the water discharge pump and would require extension cords..

Also I just had abdominal surgery a few days ago so moving this 40 pound watercooled computer is kind of not in the cards this week. I could maybe swap a psu or something, but moving the entire case would be not smart.


----------



## chronicfx

Let me see if I can get it to do it again and take some pictures of what is on and off.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Is @Philistine ever going to update the OP?


Hasn't logged in in over 3 weeks :/


----------



## chronicfx

Lol now I broke my raid0 and bios does not detect my dvd drive.. Guess I am ripping this down and reconnecting every last wire.


----------



## chronicfx

Here are photos from my phone



Above image fans and leds power up, motherboard does not, led under power button blank



Front view 230mm fan spins, fan controller is on, waterpump is on



Led error readout is not lit



Motherboard audio seperator led line is lit



My 20A socket


----------



## chronicfx

OK back, just repaired my raid0 by breaking it and renaming the same thing then running start-up repair off the windows 8.1. Back up and running. Anyways I have found a setting in my bios called "enable a dummy load" could this be what is happening?

Edit: Enabling the dummy load setting seems to work. I will keep you posted if things break again


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> 1. Is there some kind of trigger signal not happening (I pushed in the 24 pin connector on the motherboard again although I have three GPU's in and would have to pull them to check the PSU connected side of the 24 pin. I have the other 24 pin cable too to try (my original was part of that small heatsink RMA they let me keep the accessories form the other PSU)
> 
> 2. Could it really be a wall socket? I mean how often do those go bad? It is less than a year old.
> 
> 3. Could it be my motherboard, it was installed on the 2nd of September but has not shown to be problematic thus far.



The PS_ON cable carries the " trigger signal". I've never heard of problems with it before, but it is possible.
Could be a grounding problem with the socket.
It's possible, the only way to really tell is if you have another motherboard to test.


----------



## mossberg385t

I just bought a 1300G2 from a fellow OCN member


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mossberg385t*
> 
> I just bought a 1300G2 from a fellow OCN member


Nothing wrong with it. From all reviews and accounts it is a great PSU enjoy


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I don't like the red cables that I received with the P2 1000watt PSU. Mainly because I am not a fan of red. These babies are pretty easy to resleeve?


----------



## ZeDestructor

Well, the 1600 P2 is out on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJG61JQ/

At 399, it looks like the 1600 T2 might end up at 449.. same as the AX1500i.. at which point I'd pick the AX1500i; purely because it doesn't need capacitors in the plugs for ripple suppression...

That and the fact that it has longer EPS12V cables for use in a 900D...


----------



## chronicfx

Just an update.. The computer half started again this morning when I turned it on. By half started I mean only the fans came on but the motherboard did not start. I did the same routine of pressing reset on the outlet and everything started as normal. As an observation the other time it happened it was raining too. Not sure if it is the rain, the outlet, the psu, or the motherboard. But it seems to be leaning a bit towards the outlet/rain combination. Just not sure why pressing test/reset on the outlet makes it work though... hmmm


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Just an update.. The computer half started again this morning when I turned it on. By half started I mean only the fans came on but the motherboard did not start. I did the same routine of pressing reset on the outlet and everything started as normal. As an observation the other time it happened it was raining too. Not sure if it is the rain, the outlet, the psu, or the motherboard. But it seems to be leaning a bit towards the outlet/rain combination. *Just not sure why pressing test/reset on the outlet makes it work though...* hmmm


not sure why either. GFP is either on or off. bbbbuuutttt it isn't difficult to go to a hardware store and for a few $$ replace it.

turn off the 20A breaker (test it by plugging in a lamp if no multi meter or such is handy). take off the cover (looks like 3/4 screws in image). remove the two mounting screws to the junction box. pull out the outlet. remove "hot" wire first (red or black to brass screw) neutral wire (white to silver screw) then ground (green to green screw).
do exactly the opposite (green, white, black/red) two screws to mount, three on the cover. turn on breaker.

if you want to be cautious; pick up a pair of inexpensive poly coated gloves, wear rubber soled shoes and don't stand in water or touch metal


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not sure why either. GFP is either on or off. bbbbuuutttt it isn't difficult to go to a hardware store and for a few $$ replace it.
> 
> turn off the 20A breaker (test it by plugging in a lamp if no multi meter or such is handy). take off the cover (looks like 3/4 screws in image). remove the two mounting screws to the junction box. pull out the outlet. remove "hot" wire first (red or black to brass screw) neutral wire (white to silver screw) then ground (green to green screw).
> do exactly the opposite (green, white, black/red) two screws to mount, three on the cover. turn on breaker.
> 
> if you want to be cautious; pick up a pair of inexpensive poly coated gloves, wear rubber soled shoes and don't stand in water or touch metal


Yes the plug does work because a power strip is in the other outlet with USB drives and monitors, printers etc. and they are all on even when I switch up the plugs. My thought is can the outlet be faulty in the way of not being able to output power for the initial startup of my computer fast enough so my PSU or motherboard is saying "no"... Then maybe resetting some how makes it build up some extra "startup" power or amperage? I am no electrician, just know what I had to pass to become a chemist lol. Is this possible? I have basically a full PSU with 3 gpu's and every single sata/molex connector used except for the second cpu plug.


----------



## chronicfx

Furthermore, when it is on, it is on and has no troubles no matter how much I load it. It is just the startup, is it the PSU? Should I try to RMA just to see?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Anyone have wire diagrams for the P2 1000watt Supernova? How do we resleeve it to have no criss-crossing wires and such?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Anyone have wire diagrams for the P2 1000watt Supernova? How do we resleeve it to have no criss-crossing wires and such?


This isn't the same wire diagram but it shows how to split and sleeve multiple criss crossing wires. http://www.overclock.net/t/1494167/tutorial-sleeving-evga-supernova-1300-g2-with-capacitors-and-stealth-lacing


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Yes the plug does work because a power strip is in the other outlet with USB drives and monitors, printers etc. and they are all on even when I switch up the plugs. My thought is can the outlet be faulty in the way of not being able to output power for the initial startup of my computer fast enough so my PSU or motherboard is saying "no"... Then maybe resetting some how makes it build up some extra "startup" power or amperage? I am no electrician, just know what I had to pass to become a chemist lol. Is this possible? I have basically a full PSU with 3 gpu's and every single sata/molex connector used except for the second cpu plug.


it occurred to me that it's odd it works fine when you reset the GFCI outlet. neither am i an electrician, just a home owner and kinda R&R guy (remove/replace). it would cost $15 and 15 minutes to replace the outlet.

OR

if you believe the PSU might not provide the start up power; try disconnecting one, or two, of the gpus.

some process of elimination will save a lot of guessing.


----------



## Sepesusi

Hello to all, this will be my first post to these forums. Previously have been only checking it out with Tapatalk when bored. But now to my question:

I have ordered a new EVGA Supernova 850W G2 power supply, but now I have been told that it is overkill and I should have gone with the 45€ cheaper 750W model. I asked the store if I could change it when it arrives and they said just send it back and they will change it and refund the difference. I am maybe planning to buy Intel i7 5820K and another GTX 780 in the coming months and now I'm wondering should I change it for the 750W and 45€ or keep the 850W and be happy with it? Is it really that much overkill even for my planned upgrades?


----------



## Blaise170

Just keep the 850W. While you may only really "need" 750W for SLI, it can't hurt to have the extra power, especially if you are a heavy overclocker. In fact, if you overvolt your cards, you would need more power.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Hello to all, this will be my first post to these forums. Previously have been only checking it out with Tapatalk when bored. But now to my question:
> 
> I have ordered a new EVGA Supernova 850W G2 power supply, but now I have been told that it is overkill and I should have gone with the 45€ cheaper 750W model. I asked the store if I could change it when it arrives and they said just send it back and they will change it and refund the difference. I am maybe planning to buy Intel i7 5820K and another GTX 780 in the coming months and now I'm wondering should I change it for the 750W and 45€ or keep the 850W and be happy with it? Is it really that much overkill even for my planned upgrades?


a post i just made a few days ago from the club in my sig . ._psst . . join it!_







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> yeah, haswell-E gets pretty "thirsty" (TOTAL SYSTEM)
> 
> 
> i am partial to the EVGA G2 series myself . .what? 10 year warranty with registration! what?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is really a reply to pez)


now the 5820K may not go that high but considering two 780s can suck up 300+ watts each (_overclocked w/skyn3ts BIOS_) you will be glad you kept that 850 if you do.









oh yeah if i failed to mention it, *join the 780 club!*


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm not sure if I'm impressed with the fan inside of the P2 1000Watt SuperNova. It makes a 'noise' that's definitely, there. I'm sure with the passive feature on it won't run at night, so it shouldn't be an issue (the only time I really notice or hear discrepancies in fans is when I'm trying to get some shut-eye, fans are my white background noise, but if their sound isn't 'clean', it's very noticeable and keeps me awake). However, how difficult is it to replace the fan in the PSU, and what would be recommended? I have a soldering kit ready to be ordered, should I snag the solderpump and stuff too?


----------



## wolfwalker

There should be a sticky about EVGA PSU fan noise and replacement considerations at the rate I keep seeing mention of it.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Yeah I'm disappointed, for a $220 PSU you'd imagine they'd use something better than dual ball bearings. Like fluid dynamic or something similar, which most of the other decent brands use within that range.


----------



## wolfwalker

I really didn't mind mine in a midtower with it on the bottom and a bunch of other fans, even low rpm Noctuas, but as soon as my 1300g2 went in an FT02 with quiet(er) fans and being mounted up top, it was an earsore. I read hard and bought a Corsair with a fanless envelope that matches my average power consumption, so it's essentially silent, and when it isn't the rest of the fans are so loud it's irrelevant. Was an expensive lesson, no gripes about the EVGA other than that. I too found the fan noise stood out as much as it was a little loud. Looking at the startup voltage, it's airflow both low and max RPM I was afraid to try and replace it with anything quieter fan wise. I never found much mention of noise till I started looking, now I see someone weekly somewhere going "damn these things are loud" lol. I theorized the P2 with hybrid mode would be quiet with the fan off, obviously, but I was concerned my high current rig would kick the fan on regularly, and that it'd be just as loud then, there was better data out there for the Corsair so that's where I went.
So, $500 later I have a PSU I'm happy with, lesson learned.


----------



## VSG

lol I just took a bunch of macro shots and while my eyes were still adjusting to normal vision, I kept thinking to myself "Why is this person having a discussion with himself/herself?" thanks to the similar avatar color schemes of you two









1300g2 is the only one with a reasonably loud fan in my opinion (this coming from a guy with over 100 fans now). The fans on the 1000 and 1600G2 are quieter at the same amount of load as measured by a sound probe and also just from the human ear perception.


----------



## chronicfx

Guess I only reported back in the other thread. It has been a couple days now and ever since I removed the usb hubs power cord it has been starting normally. All is well so far.


----------



## wolfwalker

Only one I've heard in person is the 1300 G2 I had. Really a great PSU in all ways, but not quiet. I'll freely admit I over-PSU's myself too fwiw.
Even a 9590 and two 280x's didn't need that much juice. I thought I read that they all used the same fan PN after a bunch of digging but I could be remembering wrong.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Yeah, I'm curious is it possible to change the PSU fan?


----------



## wolfwalker

Deff possible, what stopped me was killing the warranty, and having sufficient airflow, and the startup voltage of that relatively high RPM/flow fan it has.
I don't have them handy but I found the fan PN and found it's CFM rating and startup voltage and all that and the only other fans that compared were just as loud.
I was too chicken not to give it as much airflow as they designed into it. And watch that startup voltage.


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> Only one I've heard in person is the 1300 G2 I had. Really a great PSU in all ways, but not quiet. I'll freely admit I over-PSU's myself too fwiw.
> Even a 9590 and two 280x's didn't need that much juice. I thought I read that they all used the same fan PN after a bunch of digging but I could be remembering wrong.


Better to be safe than sorry - in process of replacing 850 G2 Supernova (a SUPERB PSU) with the 1300 G2 Supernova because of the complexity of the custom cooling I am doing with my sig rig. I know Shilka would chide me about over-specking the power supply but every power calculator had the 850 maxed out and potentially over-subscribed with the full installation of twin rads/res/pumps and blocks for twin monster GPUs and CPU. I have read that these calculators over-estimate (maybe cautious, maybe marketing reasons) but when you've invested the money and time and don't have the expertise of a Shilka - I prefer to be accused of Chicken Little status instead of having a Fried Chicken rig!!!

As to noise - the rig has three high-speed Deltas and a high-speed San Ace Ultimate along with four Cougar Vortexes.

Fan noise from the PSU?!?! What fan noise!?!? (I sleep and work better with noise - thirty-plus years of family life FTW!)









ACQ


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

I need some help troubleshooting.

Without my sound card installed, I can run my 4930k cpu at 4.7ghz with 1.4v. and my Dual Titans at 1389mhz 1.375v. with no problems. More voltage on the gpus and more mhz causes my psu to shut down.

with the sound card installed. max I can go on the cpu is 4.5 at 1.3xx volts and roughly 1124mhz on both titans at 1.2v

confirmed is the sound card as I ran some tests with it removed.

Could this be a PSU problem? I mean it's a drastic cut in performance just by adding a sound card. I don't have the space for a second psu and don't want to go buy a 1600w G2 and have the same problem.

any info will be appreciated. thanks.


----------



## Spork13

I used a G2 850 for my build and it's a great little unit.
With the fan switched to "silent mode" I never hear it.
With the fan switched off silent mode - I still never hear it, as by the time it's own fan kicks in I've already got the CPU fans x 2, case fans, and GPU fans x 4 spinning happily away.
It is mounted @ the back bottom of my case, but even with my head behind the case I struggle to hear it.

Is it "perfect"? No.
My "gripes" are all very minor / just being picky though:
- The housing doesn't feel as sturdy as my old Corsair HX 640 (or 620 - I can't remember), but that's mostly just the intake grille.
- The braided cables: I'd have been happy to pay a bit more for "nicer" cables. ie: Individually braided, all the way to the connectors (like the Bit-Fenix ones) Alternatively, in hindsight, ribbon cables might have been easier for cable management in my particular case (Enthoo Pro) and I could just run sleeved extensions, which I have done. This would have made cable management behind the MB tray a bit easier.
- The labels on the front (what socket is for what plug) are hard to read. (I'm old, my eyes are crap, and the PSU is tucked down the bottom of the case)

As I said, my complaints are very minor, and may not bother others at all.

On a positive side:
-Quiet.
-Efficient.
-Smooth power delivery.
-An EVGA product I can afford!
-Built on what is from all reports _the_ best in class design.
-6 pin AND 8 pin (6+2) on one lead - so I only have to run 2 leads for Xfire 280X's (or many other GPU's should I wish to change).
-Best warranty around. Who buys computer stuff on the assumption they will still be using that component in 10 years time???


----------



## Tsaza

Should I grab Supernova G2 750W or 850W for 5820k & 970 SLI build?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tsaza*
> 
> Should I grab Supernova G2 750W or 850W for 5820k & 970 SLI build?


You dont even need the 750 watts a 650 watts could do it, so there is no reason to get the 850 watts unless you are going to have a 3rd card.


----------



## levontraut

I bought one last weekend and it looks OK but the braiding is not brilliant ( way to much wire seen between the braid and connector)
The pay does not feel heavy.

Just my 2 cents worth of input


----------



## bond32

Nice... Didn't know there was an owner's club for these bad boys. Have a second 1300 watt G2 coming in today.

I discovered, much to my disbelief, that pushing my 3 290x cards over 1.4 volts each would cap out the 1300 watt G2 I have. Considering I already have the braided cable set so I have extra cables, ordered one from a member here. Now the question is, should I run each of these off different breakers?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Guess I only reported back in the other thread. It has been a couple days now and ever since I removed the usb hubs power cord it has been starting normally. All is well so far.


i saw that on your other thread. thanks for letting us all know you got it sorted.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Nice... Didn't know there was an owner's club for these bad boys. Have a second 1300 watt G2 coming in today.
> 
> I discovered, much to my disbelief, that pushing my 3 290x cards over 1.4 volts each would cap out the 1300 watt G2 I have. Considering I already have the braided cable set so I have extra cables, ordered one from a member here. Now the question is, should I run each of these off different breakers?


I'm not surprised, they push 290-300watts a piece stock. Honestly I'm starting to think that the 290x is named after its power consumption.







Three of them stock would be 900watts, plus your system load, that's not giving you much leeway for overclocking/overvolting.


----------



## istudy92

Man I am planning on getting the 980s and even 4 way sli 980 woulda break 1300 w what a waste of a psu lmao, should use it to power my heater.


----------



## tracerit

I have a 750W G2. Weird thing happened today. Left computer on, went to work, came home, computer was off and would not turn on. I used the PSU tester accessory and the PSU would not turn on. I tried different outlets and plugs around my room. Nothing worked. Determined at that point my 750 G2 was dead. So i head out to Fry's to pick up a cheap PSU and when I got home an hour later, the 750 G2 worked again! Any ideas on what could've happened here?

I always keep Eco Mode on (fan off) and have left my computer on for days before. Today was just another day. I've had this PSU for about 5 months brand new.


----------



## chronicfx

I have had that happen. Not an expert but it could be some sort of protection that kicked in. It needed time to reset? Anyways I have encountered that 3 or 4 times in my life over two different PSU. The psu seems to be fine after that point. Use it and if it has issues in the future. I have never had it happen like you say though, i have it happen on initial startup only and then not work for 10 or 20 panicked minutes. I know to wait now.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> I have a 750W G2. Weird thing happened today. Left computer on, went to work, came home, computer was off and would not turn on. I used the PSU tester accessory and the PSU would not turn on. I tried different outlets and plugs around my room. Nothing worked. Determined at that point my 750 G2 was dead. So i head out to Fry's to pick up a cheap PSU and when I got home an hour later, the 750 G2 worked again! Any ideas on what could've happened here?
> 
> I always keep Eco Mode on (fan off) and have left my computer on for days before. Today was just another day. I've had this PSU for about 5 months brand new.


Sounds like surge protection, not had it on my 1600G2 specifically but on some units it can last anything from 15 to 30 minutes


----------



## tracerit

Ah ok. I'll hold onto it for now that 10 year warranty will come in handy haha.

I also had it connected to a an APC UPS too. I should also add that the computer turned off at 2pm but I came home at 7pm and it wasn't powering then.


----------



## Heimsgard

I bought a Supernova 850G2 for $109. It will be overkill for my future build but it was cheaper than the 750G2 by $6 when I bought it.


----------



## Spork13

Is that new prices?
Stuff is too much $ here. (Australia). Mine was $199, and I thought that was a fair price.


----------



## Aluc13

Can I join?Got mine on sale for $98.


----------



## JackCY

Ridiculous, black Friday/xmas sales in US hey?

I got mine for like $140 instead of regular $160-170 here in EU.
US, no tax, low profit on selling goods...


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Ridiculous, black Friday/xmas sales in US hey?
> 
> I got mine for like $140 instead of regular $160-170 here in EU.
> US, no tax, low profit on selling goods...


We do have tax.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> I bought a Supernova 850G2 for $109. It will be overkill for my future build but it was cheaper than the 750G2 by $6 when I bought it.


Ha overkill?
WE ARE IN OCN EVERYTHING ISNT ENOUGH!!! MOAWRRRRRRR

No but really, I have an overkill PSU
1300w, and all I have is a gtz970 which is more powerful than CF 7950 and less power-___- if I were to quad a 980 I wouldnt hit 1k watt-___-


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Ha overkill?
> WE ARE IN OCN EVERYTHING ISNT ENOUGH!!! MOAWRRRRRRR
> 
> No but really, I have an overkill PSU
> 1300w, and all I have is a gtz970 which is more powerful than CF 7950 and less power-___- if I were to quad a 980 I wouldnt hit 1k watt-___-


Now run 2x1300 watt g2's, and 4x290x's with pt1 bios. Now we are talking power.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

1600 P2 review is up at HiTechLegion http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/power-supplies/42332-evga-supernova-1600-p2-80-plus-platinum-power-supply-review


----------



## VSG

Almost December now, Jacob. Where's my titanium Christmas present?


----------



## Kimir

Oh you








The 1600P2 just showed up on the EU store, only 30€ more than the Gold one, nice.


----------



## VSG

Gotta catch 'em all!


----------



## Kimir

You'll have to edit you avatar and put a EVGA PSU instead of the Canon 70-200 from the hands of scrat!








ps: no, those are not pokemon lol.


----------



## VSG

I will call them Pikachu, Bulbasaur and Squirtle (if the spelling is right anyway, never watched Pokémon lol).


----------



## Mystriss

Hello, I have been considering one of the EVGA 1600 G2's cause the reviews are so great on them, but I have a few questions I was hoping ya'll could clear up?

At the moment I'm running a SilverStone ST1200, I love the size of it and I love the modular 1:1 cables. (And here's a pic of my rig for reference) That said:

1. I've heard that this EVGA needs a 20AMP dedicated circuit. I do not mind having my husband put one in for me when I move my rig to my studio and all, but I can't get into my studio for another year or so (Something about not being allowed to throw my children out of the house or something *rolls eyes*







)

So, how serious is the need for that dedicated circuit; I'm running quite a bit on my wall outlet as it is; just for my rig alone I've also got my Onkyo stereo receiver w/7.1 Surround/powered sub-woofer, 3 monitors (eventually 4), phone chargers, and an air cleaner. And I think my husbands rig (premade ASUS gaming rig) plus the router, modem, and cable for the house, plus the printer, and my husband's Keurug coffee maker, are all on the same circuit already. Now I don't think I'm going to get anywhere near full load on the PSU at all (I am running a pretty high draw rig with dual 290x CUII's and FX8350 4.3MhZ CPU - They say 250w each for the cards and 125w for my CPU. Then I've got an AQ5LT ~ eventually 2 and/or an AQ6 ~ LED RGB lighting, etc.)

That said, it looks like testing was saying it was drawing right at 15amp's for the PSU, but I wasn't able to determine if that was just when the tester was running it under high load or not.

I just don't want to buy the thing then have it blow my circuits all the time heh

2. Has anyone made their own cables for the EVGA 1600 G2? Is it 1:1 and do they use priority connectors on it?

I've fully customized my cables for the SilverStone PSU I have; while quite a few of the MB cables are extension style, because I have a dual HTPC case rig, so they should be compatible with the new PSU, I'm concerned that I'm going to have to redo a bunch in the second case. I've made customized Sata power, a molex pass-through, and all the cabling for my lighting which all to connect direct to the PSU (rather than on cable extensions) I mean those /are/ 1:1 so I could just do a short extension off the PSU, but I'd just like to know how much prep work I'm going to need to do to get one of these babies rolling.

3. Finally, heat... As I said I'm working with a dual HTPC case so heat /is/ a concern. This PSU is /not/ going to fit inside my lower case, I was already pushing it with the SilverStone's length. I've got a 'stereo' rack for my rig (see pic above) and it's encased behind the 'components', but I'm looking at installing the PSU either behind my bottom case or (worst case) behind my stereo receiver (which runs /real/ hot.) I don't have any fans in the bottom case right now, and no CPU rad yet - it's just got the Silverstone PSU venting through the HTPC case, drives sit at 33C and the highest I've seen them go is 36C. The stereo receiver on the other hand is HOT, I'd say it's around 40c down there without fans >.<

Now, I don't mind drilling a hole in the side of the rack's enclosure for a fan, but to maintain the structural integrity of the rack I wouldn't be able to do a 120mm, it'd have to be a 90mm at most, and because of the way the rack is designed I wouldn't be able to put in a cross flow fan system (one side is against my desk and there isn't a way to get flow through there), though I might be able to draw some air in from the front of the rack (over the top of the receiver or second HTPC case, which is going to pick up heat, of course - I was already going to be doing an intake into the bottom case as there'll be a 120rad for my CPU loop, but...)

So my question would be how sensitive to heat is this PSU, and do you think it puts out more than _typical_ heat?


----------



## VSG

The 20A recommendation is only if you are getting close to the 1600w draw. Given your components, and with temps higher than ambient, you won't get there even with high core volts.

It isn't 1:1 as far as I know, and people have made/offer custom length cables. If you are going to sleeve the cables yourself then look at guides on the other Evga G2 units here. The stock cables have capacitors on some of them.

Again depends on the power draw, but seeing as how the 1600G2 has no eco mode and the fan is always on, you should be ok.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I have been considering one of the EVGA 1600 G2's cause the reviews are so great on them, but I have a few questions I was hoping ya'll could clear up?
> 
> At the moment I'm running a SilverStone ST1200, I love the size of it and I love the modular 1:1 cables. (And here's a pic of my rig for reference) That said:
> 
> 1. I've heard that this EVGA needs a 20AMP dedicated circuit. I do not mind having my husband put one in for me when I move my rig to my studio and all, but I can't get into my studio for another year or so (Something about not being allowed to throw my children out of the house or something *rolls eyes*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> So, how serious is the need for that dedicated circuit; I'm running quite a bit on my wall outlet as it is; just for my rig alone I've also got my Onkyo stereo receiver w/7.1 Surround/powered sub-woofer, 3 monitors (eventually 4), phone chargers, and an air cleaner. And I think my husbands rig (premade ASUS gaming rig) plus the router, modem, and cable for the house, plus the printer, and my husband's Keurug coffee maker, are all on the same circuit already. Now I don't think I'm going to get anywhere near full load on the PSU at all (I am running a pretty high draw rig with dual 290x CUII's and FX8350 4.3MhZ CPU - They say 250w each for the cards and 125w for my CPU. Then I've got an AQ5LT ~ eventually 2 and/or an AQ6 ~ LED RGB lighting, etc.)
> 
> That said, it looks like testing was saying it was drawing right at 15amp's for the PSU, but I wasn't able to determine if that was just when the tester was running it under high load or not.
> 
> I just don't want to buy the thing then have it blow my circuits all the time heh
> 
> 2. Has anyone made their own cables for the EVGA 1600 G2? Is it 1:1 and do they use priority connectors on it?
> 
> I've fully customized my cables for the SilverStone PSU I have; while quite a few of the MB cables are extension style, because I have a dual HTPC case rig, so they should be compatible with the new PSU, I'm concerned that I'm going to have to redo a bunch in the second case. I've made customized Sata power, a molex pass-through, and all the cabling for my lighting which all to connect direct to the PSU (rather than on cable extensions) I mean those /are/ 1:1 so I could just do a short extension off the PSU, but I'd just like to know how much prep work I'm going to need to do to get one of these babies rolling.
> 
> 3. Finally, heat... As I said I'm working with a dual HTPC case so heat /is/ a concern. This PSU is /not/ going to fit inside my lower case, I was already pushing it with the SilverStone's length. I've got a 'stereo' rack for my rig (see pic above) and it's encased behind the 'components', but I'm looking at installing the PSU either behind my bottom case or (worst case) behind my stereo receiver (which runs /real/ hot.) I don't have any fans in the bottom case right now, and no CPU rad yet - it's just got the Silverstone PSU venting through the HTPC case, drives sit at 33C and the highest I've seen them go is 36C. The stereo receiver on the other hand is HOT, I'd say it's around 40c down there without fans >.<
> 
> Now, I don't mind drilling a hole in the side of the rack's enclosure for a fan, but to maintain the structural integrity of the rack I wouldn't be able to do a 120mm, it'd have to be a 90mm at most, and because of the way the rack is designed I wouldn't be able to put in a cross flow fan system (one side is against my desk and there isn't a way to get flow through there), though I might be able to draw some air in from the front of the rack (over the top of the receiver or second HTPC case, which is going to pick up heat, of course - I was already going to be doing an intake into the bottom case as there'll be a 120rad for my CPU loop, but...)
> 
> So my question would be how sensitive to heat is this PSU, and do you think it puts out more than _typical_ heat?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 20A recommendation is only if you are getting close to the 1600w draw. Given your components, and with temps higher than ambient, you won't get there even with high core volts.
> 
> It isn't 1:1 as far as I know, and people have made/offer custom length cables. If you are going to sleeve the cables yourself then look at guides on the other Evga G2 units here. The stock cables have capacitors on some of them.
> 
> Again depends on the power draw, but seeing as how the 1600G2 has no eco mode and the fan is always on, you should be ok.


^pretty much that.

Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 1600W

Quote:


> Whew - we hit forty eight degrees, and the unit had no trouble with that. More importantly, the load testers managed to run the whole 90 minutes without popping a MOSFET. Always a plus when that happens.
> 
> Oh, man... we got a pass for Platinum AGAIN. And this time, it's even a clean pass. Wow. But yeah... the unit was well over 15A current draw once more, though it didn't hit the 16A mark this time. It stopped at 15.75A. I won't score against that, because I didn't score against the Lepa G1600 for doing that same thing. But you definitely should think about that 20A circuit if you plan to really stretch this thing out.


no offence but why do you believe there is a need to get a PSU that's ~800-1K watts more than needed?

you may want to give this a read . . .

50% Load Myth


----------



## Mjsaurus

Ok forgive me if this is posted elsewhere, but I couldn't find it...

I just purchased the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2, and I am trying to find a set of white cables for it to match my build.. and for the life of me I can't find any.. Any website recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I'm an idiot. They're right on EVGA's website lol.. if anyone has a cheaper source than $90 tho, that would be sweet.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hard to find custom sleeved wires for an affordable price. You can do it yourself but ultimately it ends up costing just as much if not more due to having to purchase all the tools and equipment. $90 for an entire set of sleeved cables isn't too bad.


----------



## Mjsaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Hard to find custom sleeved wires for an affordable price. You can do it yourself but ultimately it ends up costing just as much if not more due to having to purchase all the tools and equipment. $90 for an entire set of sleeved cables isn't too bad.


Yea after doing a bit of research I kind of came to the same conclusion.. I did manage to find a site selling them for $75 so I will probably just grab them there.


----------



## Spork13

Sleeved extensions are another option, and could be used ATX PSU you may buy in the future. They do add some bulk inside your case opposed to custom sleeved kit, but are likely to be a bit cheaper, you only have to buy the ones you actually need.


----------



## Klocek001

How does this ECO mode work on SF Leadex 850W ? Is it based on the temperature or load ? What's the threshold ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> How does this ECO mode work on SF Leadex 850W ? Is it based on the temperature or load ? What's the threshold ?


----------



## Klocek001

I see the threshold for the 750W is 300W load, it would be great if it was 50W more for the 850W. Then it would spin only under very heavy load in my rig.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> I see the threshold for the 750W is 300W load, it would be great if it was 50W more for the 850W. Then it would spin only under very heavy load in my rig.


Try and leave it off first if ther fan bother you turn it on, unless the PC is on the desk you are not going to hear the fan.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> How does this ECO mode work on SF Leadex 850W ? Is it based on the temperature or load ? What's the threshold ?


See reviews hey, they provide graphs sometimes, TPU has them for EVGA at least, should be the same.
It is definitely temperature monitored, not load. There are tests of it at room temps and hotbox.

850W will only spin up with some very hungry single GPU setup, very very hungry.
4690K OC + 280x OC doesn't spin it up. The threshold at room temperature 20C etc. is around 500-600W, around 60% capacity on Leadex platform usually for the fan to spin up.






Cold, you can see that it spins up late and it's quiet


Hot, but if need be it can kick in too cool the PSU down as needed


I don't know where TPU got those values over 40dB, close to 50dB, but it definitely depends on where and how they measure, so these are not comparable between reviewers.
When the fan is on it is definitely not as loud as my GPU fan lol, that's what it could look like from those graphs from TPU. It's better to look at the RPMs as most fans produce the same/similar noise level at equal RPMs. The fans spin I think from 800 to 1600rpm.
Hacks/warranty void/dangerous: fan can be disabled completely (bad bad bad), swapped for a different slower and quieter one or add a resistor to the current fan to nudge the RPMs a little lower.

Maybe SF units have a different fan and it spins faster a little, but not all seem to have it compared to EVGA.
From pictures between SF 750W and EVGA 850W it looks as identical fan, all the part numbers on it, same fan.
I think it usually spins around 1000rpm when it is turned on as minimum speed, it doesn't seem like 500rpm. I can hear it when I turn it on, but barely, it's only because of the ball bearings not being as quiet as other types (fluid etc.). Otherwise there is no noise, no airflow noise or not much, it's mostly the bearings that I notice I think, they are quiet sure but can be heard. That's in a quiet room with other fans spinning 500rpm or less. Easy to hear any noise.

Plus if you make it spin up, it's probably going to be because of power hungry GPUs and those will be so loud that you won't really hear something like a PSU fan spinning XD
Even on water I guess the radiator fans are going to be the loudest under heavy load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Try and leave it off first if ther fan bother you turn it on, unless the PC is on the desk you are not going to hear the fan.


I have it on cork and carpet, sure having PC on a desk is suicide in terms of noise, it acts like an amplifier.


----------



## Vlada011

New Power Supply.
EVGA 1200 P2. For weekend Installation, cable management and photos.



Now only need to buy Black Sleeve Set.
EVGA send package from Germany 3rd December, 4th about 16:00h UPS Guys deliver me in Serbia.


----------



## ondoy

love this PSU...


----------



## tracerit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tracerit*
> 
> I have a 750W G2. Weird thing happened today. Left computer on, went to work, came home, computer was off and would not turn on. I used the PSU tester accessory and the PSU would not turn on. I tried different outlets and plugs around my room. Nothing worked. Determined at that point my 750 G2 was dead. So i head out to Fry's to pick up a cheap PSU and when I got home an hour later, the 750 G2 worked again! Any ideas on what could've happened here?
> 
> I always keep Eco Mode on (fan off) and have left my computer on for days before. Today was just another day. I've had this PSU for about 5 months brand new.


Just wanted to update that this issue has been solved. It appears my RAM were faulty. I started testing it out after experiencing the same shutdowns after receiving my RMA'd 750G2 PSU as well. Haven't had a down time in 4, going on 5 days now with new RAM.


----------



## Aluc13

May I join the club, if not already?


----------



## mauley

I will be joining this club when I get home from work. My new 750 G2 arrived in the post this morning. Looks to be well built and the cables are a tonne better than my last PSU.

I shall post up pics later.


----------



## mauley

My new beautiful PSU. Can I join the club now please.


----------



## Aluc13

Awesome and welcome


----------



## Blaise170

We really need to get a new club owner...


----------



## shilka

I would not mind taking over, in fact its much Philistine who took my idea about making this club
No offense or anything meant by that.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I would not mind taking over, in fact its much Philistine who took my idea about making this club
> No offense or anything meant by that.


Yeah he hasn't posted since June despite logging in back in November. I think back in August we talked about this. You should contact a mod.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Yeah he hasn't posted since June despite logging in back in November. I think back in August we talked about this. You should contact a mod.


I am not sure how they would respond to that i mean i dont want to steal the club away from him, on the other hand i am rather annoyed by anyone that starts a club but dont keep it updated or even finished.
I dont mean to brag or anything but i am probably one of the few here on OCN that have time to run a club full time or close to full time.

No offense or anything meant by that.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am not sure how they would respond to that i mean i dont want to steal the club away from him, on the other hand i am rather annoyed by anyone that starts a club but dont keep it updated or even finished.
> I dont mean to brag or anything but i am probably one of the few here on OCN that have time to run a club full time or close to full time.
> 
> No offense or anything meant by that.


It's been six months since the last update, I think that's more than enough time to give the benefit of the doubt.


----------



## shilka

I can try and talk to Arizonian tomorrow and see if he can do anything otherwise i might need to talk to Chunky_Chimp or someone even higher up.
Cant make any promises but i try and ask when i have time.

Its 01.16 here local time so i am not going to ask today.


----------



## Aluc13

Yeah, I wouldn't mind an update to this thread. it sounds like its been a long time coming. Though...that is a lot to sort through at least it isn't 100's of pages


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Yeah he hasn't posted since June despite logging in back in November. I think back in August we talked about this. You should contact a mod.
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure how they would respond to that i mean i dont want to steal the club away from him, on the other hand i am rather annoyed by anyone that starts a club but dont keep it updated or even finished.
> I dont mean to brag or anything but i am probably one of the few here on OCN that have time to run a club full time or close to full time.
> 
> No offense or anything meant by that.
Click to expand...

well, i am not knowledgeable about how it works but i don't see an *[official]* tag in the thread. would that make a difference?

though isn't there the option to start an *[official]* one?

and like you, no offence meant.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-1600-X1


----------



## OldDominion

At Last!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-1600-X1


Oooh. Email sent!


----------



## LostParticle

Hello









Apologies if I post in the wrong thread but I thought to ask here instead of opening a new thread:

I need to buy a new PSU and I am between the EVGA SUPERNOVA 750 G2 and the G2 850W. It will get installed in the system shown in my rig. My current PSU will be RMA-ed and replaced, hopefully, but right now I need a new one. It doesn't bother me to have two.

Which one would you suggest me?

With these two, the Corsair shown in my sig and the EVGA that you will suggest me I am planning to spend the next five years, at least.

Thank you !


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if I post in the wrong thread but I thought to ask here instead of opening a new thread:
> 
> I need to buy a new PSU and I am between the EVGA SUPERNOVA 750 G2 and the G2 850W. It will get installed in the system shown in my rig. My current PSU will be RMA-ed and replaced, hopefully, but right now I need a new one. It doesn't bother me to have two.
> 
> Which one would you suggest me?
> 
> With these two, the Corsair shown in my sig and the EVGA that you will suggest me I am planning to spend the next five years, at least.
> 
> Thank you !


If you don't plan on overclocking or even changing anything out in those next 5 years I would say the 750 is the best bet. 850 is more if you are going to sli in the future or overclock extremely.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if I post in the wrong thread but I thought to ask here instead of opening a new thread:
> 
> I need to buy a new PSU and I am between the EVGA SUPERNOVA 750 G2 and the G2 850W. It will get installed in the system shown in my rig. My current PSU will be RMA-ed and replaced, hopefully, but right now I need a new one. It doesn't bother me to have two.
> 
> Which one would you suggest me?
> 
> With these two, the Corsair shown in my sig and the EVGA that you will suggest me I am planning to spend the next five years, at least.
> 
> Thank you !


You dont need 750 watts it way overkill for your system, 450 watts could power that system.


----------



## VSG

The 750G2 is a great unit, and enough for another GTX 660 GPU as well. Look at the price gap between the two units and see- both are based off the same PSU platform anyway.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need 750 watts it way overkill for your system, 450 watts could power that system.


Thanks for your reply!
You might be right that ...450W (!) would be sufficient for my system today, but what about "tomorrow"?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 750G2 is a great unit, and enough for another GTX 660 GPU as well. Look at the price gap between the two units and see- both are based off the same PSU platform anyway.


Yeah, I agree with you, they both seem great units! In my country the price between them is 20 Euros. Nothing much really but...there is one thing I do not know - and I do not even know how to express it, lol, but I will try:

- Is it possible that by getting the 850W unit it will not behave so good in lower load? I mean, will it be efficient under any load and circumstances - meaning also when not much power is required?

Sorry...not a native English speaker and not knowledgeable either...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> If you don't plan on overclocking or even changing anything out in those next 5 years I would say the 750 is the best bet. 850 is more if you are going to sli in the future or overclock extremely.


I am overclocking, or at least trying to, right now.

Thanks!


----------



## Aluc13

No problem, always happy to help.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> You might be right that ...450W (!) would be sufficient for my system today, but what about "tomorrow"?
> Yeah, I agree with you, they both seem great units! In my country the price between them is 20 Euros. Nothing much really but...there is one thing I do not know - and I do not even know how to express it, lol, but I will try:
> 
> - Is it possible that by getting the 850W unit it will not behave so good in lower load? I mean, will it be efficient under any load and circumstances - meaning also when not much power is required?
> 
> Sorry...not a native English speaker and not knowledgeable either...
> I am overclocking, or at least trying to, right now.
> 
> Thanks!


Having too much wattage will lower the efficiency at lower loads.
Save those 20 euros and spend them on some beer soda or whatever, you dont need 850 watts not even for GTX 980 SLI.


----------



## VSG

Yeah I know what you mean. PSU's are best at efficiency with 50% load or nearby. Good units don't go very inefficient even at low loads, but that's also where the 750G2 will have an edge I believe.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Having too much wattage will lower the efficiency at lower loads.
> Save those 20 euros and spend them on some beer soda or whatever, you dont need 850 watts not even for GTX 980 SLI.


Okay, thanks!








I will go for the 750W EVGA then!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah I know what you mean. PSU's are best at efficiency with 50% load or nearby. Good units don't go very inefficient even at low loads, but that's also where the 750G2 will have an edge I believe.


Can you please rephrase the "750G2 *will have an edge* I believe" ? I do not understand you, I am sorry







Are you suggesting me the 750W or not?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Okay, thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will go for the 750W EVGA then!
> Can you please rephrase the "750G2 will have an edge I believe" ? I do not understand you, I am sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you suggesting me the 750W or not?


He said that the G2 does has better efficiency at lower loads then some of the other options out there.
And he is right the G2 does have better efficiency at lower loads then something like say a Seasonic M12II but it still not great efficiency, and it only gets lower the more wattage you have extra.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> He said that the G2 does has better efficiency at lower loads then some of the other options out there.
> And he is right the G2 does have better efficiency at lower loads then something like say a Seasonic M12II but it still not great efficiency, and it only gets lower the more wattage you have extra.


Ah yes, now I got it. I have translated his phrase and it means: "....but that's also where the 750G2 will have an *advantage* I believe."

So, I will give the order for the 750W now!









Thank you all very much +REP!









ps: I will wait for 10 minutes in case there are any objections.


----------



## VSG

Yeah, the "edge" there meant "advantage" as you translated yourself. But even against the 850G2, the 750G2 might well fare better since that rig of yours will be closer to consuming 50% of 750 than 850. Either way, you can't really go wrong with it other than where a 650G2 or lower would have been great. You listening, @EVGA-JacobF?


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.evga.com/products/Product.aspx?pn=220-T2-1600-X1


On amazon, and called it weeks ago pricewise








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Well, the 1600 P2 is out on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJG61JQ/
> 
> At 399, it looks like the 1600 T2 might end up at 449.. same as the AX1500i.. at which point I'd pick the AX1500i; purely because it doesn't need capacitors in the plugs for ripple suppression...
> 
> That and the fact that it has longer EPS12V cables for use in a 900D...


At the same time though, the 1600P2 dropped from it's 399.99 price down to a "mere" 338.99 and the The Corsair AX1500i also dropped down from 449.99 to 387.99, presumably due to the pressure of the 1600G2/P2. I wouldn't be surprised to see the 1600T2 go under 400, but I don't think it'll go far from AX1500i pricing.

Now for some proper reviews...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Does anyone know if the G2 1300 is a pin for pin straight pinout on the PCIe cables? I figured that it isn't safe to assume considering the 24pin is completely different on the opposite end (total pain to sleeve). Thanks in advance!


----------



## JackCY

LostParticle: for a single GPU PC a 550W PSU is enough. Why have two PSUs at the same time? What's wrong with the Corsair?
I've seen 8EUR difference between the models. Get 750, or get something even cheaper like CM V550 or Capstone or something like that. Or just get anything since you will get your Corsair back later so why spend a fortune on another good PSU.

Yeah Jacob, why no 650 G2? SF has it, it would be better suited for us all with single GPU PCs than having to get other PSUs with lower capacity (CM, Rosewill, Seasonic, SF, ...) or getting the 750 G2. I only got 850 G2 because 750 G2 was sold out and the Seasonic G650s I tried both whined like a dying duck.
A 650 G2 would have been great, even 550 but SF doesn't have Leadex in 550 at least not in shops or on web.


----------



## shilka

The SuperNova B2 is a Super Flower Golden Green which DOES have lower wattage models.
My suggestion to EVGA if anyone want to take my suggestion is to release some lower wattage models that does NOT suck, 450 / 550 and 650 watts versions of the B2 would let EVGA cover a biger area and thus sell more.

Maybe rise the efficiency of the Golden Green back up to gold as well while you are at it.
EVGA does not have any counters to the Seasonic G series the Cooler Master VSM series and / or the Rosewill Capstone series and thats pretty much the 3 best sellers.


----------



## JackCY

Yep, here in middle of Europe people who want a PSU get some kind of Seasonic, any of them that they can fit into the budget. Even if it's the "economic series" or how to call it, the SS series is the most sold here. Number one PSU in popularity:
Seasonic Energy Knight SS-500ET, T3 500W OEM
And other cheap Seasonics, Fortrons, Zalmans, CMs, 400-650W dominate the top selling places.

EVGA 750 G2 is somewhere down, depending on which shop or shop aggregator I look at. Sometimes around 250th place if it's an aggregator with many products, sometimes in top 50 if it's a shop with not so many options.

Sure EVGA has some of the other lower wattage PSUs but they are not as much in shops and I wouldn't touch them







The B, B1, B2, G1, W1, ... what a mess (quantity over quality doesn't work well with PSUs).


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yep, here in middle of Europe people who want a PSU get some kind of Seasonic, any of them that they can fit into the budget. Even if it's the "economic series" or how to call it, the SS series is the most sold here. Number one PSU in popularity:
> Seasonic Energy Knight SS-500ET, T3 500W OEM
> And other cheap Seasonics, Fortrons, Zalmans, CMs, 400-650W dominate the top selling places.
> 
> EVGA 750 G2 is somewhere down, depending on which shop or shop aggregator I look at. Sometimes around 250th place if it's an aggregator with many products, sometimes in top 50 if it's a shop with not so many options.
> 
> Sure EVGA has some of the other lower wattage PSUs but they are not as much in shops and I wouldn't touch them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The B, B1, B2, G1, W1, ... what a mess (quantity over quality doesn't work well with PSUs).


The B2 is a downgraded Super Flower Golden Green and is not bad.
The 1000 watts G1 is a Golden Green as well.


----------



## DR4G00N

Mind if I join?

I had my 1300 G2 for around 2 months and I couldn't be happier with it.








Totally overkill for my needs as my system only uses about 600-700w under load, but it was only $230 cad w/ free ship so I couldn't pass it up.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The B2 is a downgraded Super Flower Golden Green and is not bad.
> The 1000 watts G1 is a Golden Green as well.


Sure, unfortunately here I can only find 750 and 850 B2, they are cheaper than Leadex G2s sure a little, but still overkill for single GPU.
The rest are some scattered 500B, 600B, B1s, some weird W1s, and so on, all these "remains of the past". Same thing in a big German shop.

Super Flower doesn't make it here but I can find them from shops across the border in Germany. Golden Green HX, 350 to 750 stepped by 100. The rest of SF EVGA has covered with better offers of the same PSUs








But Germans actually buy tons of be quiet!s from looking at the shop statistics, keeping the money spent in their own country since be quiet! is German. Sometimes a Thermaltake or Corsair gets mixed in there somehow. The rest, no chance.


----------



## LostParticle

Hello again!

For about an hour now I am the happy owner of the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2!








I have installed it on my system and it works great! Haha, what I really mean is that it works since I cannot actually tell how great it works, a complete novice/amateur on PSUs being...

Two "issues" I have observed, one minor and the other a bit more important - I'd appreciate your help :

- On my Corsair AX 760 I used one cable to connect my Graphics card (see rig, please); on this EVGA I have to use two separate cables labeled GPU, if I recall correctly. I do not mind this, just out of curiosity though, is it better, the same or worst to use two separate cables connected to two VGA slots in the backside of the PSU?









- Now, the most important "issue" which is entirely my responsibility (and fault): NOT enough cables for my devices!...

Specifically, as shown in my rig, I have an Aquaero 5LT and a soundcard, the Essence STX II. With the AX 760 I had enough cables to connect and use both of those devices. The EVGA 750 G2 though, provides only one cable labeled "Peripherals" (?), and I used this for the Aquaero which controls all my system's fans, besides the CPU cooler.

So now I do not have sound because I cannot connect my soundcard, hahah!

- Where can I purchase a cable to connect my soundcard, please, and most importantly, where should I connect this soundcard? Can I connect it to one of the SATA "slots" in the backside of the PSU? Somewhere else?

And one last question: IF I would wish to connect the pump of my AIO, see rig, directly on the PSU, where should I connect it?

Thank you and apologies for my English. Some times I get bored writing in English...


----------



## Archea47

How do I join?

Icarus Wings (sig rig) runs today on a G2 1000W

G2 1300W is in the mail and should arrive today

Thanks!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello again!
> 
> For about an hour now I am the happy owner of the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have installed it on my system and it works great! Haha, what I really mean is that it works since I cannot actually tell how great it works, a complete novice/amateur on PSUs being...
> 
> Two "issues" I have observed, one minor and the other a bit more important - I'd appreciate your help :
> 
> - On my Corsair AX 760 I used one cable to connect my Graphics card (see rig, please); on this EVGA I have to use two separate cables labeled GPU, if I recall correctly. I do not mind this, just out of curiosity though, is it better, the same or worst to use two separate cables connected to two VGA slots in the backside of the PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Now, the most important "issue" which is entirely my responsibility (and fault): NOT enough cables for my devices!...
> 
> Specifically, as shown in my rig, I have an Aquaero 5LT and a soundcard, the Essence STX II. With the AX 760 I had enough cables to connect and use both of those devices. The EVGA 750 G2 though, provides only one cable labeled "Peripherals" (?), and I used this for the Aquaero which controls all my system's fans, besides the CPU cooler.
> 
> So now I do not have sound because I cannot connect my soundcard, hahah!
> 
> - Where can I purchase a cable to connect my soundcard, please, and most importantly, where should I connect this soundcard? Can I connect it to one of the SATA "slots" in the backside of the PSU? Somewhere else?
> 
> And one last question: IF I would wish to connect the pump of my AIO, see rig, directly on the PSU, where should I connect it?
> 
> Thank you and apologies for my English. Some times I get bored writing in English...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> How do I join?
> 
> Icarus Wings (sig rig) runs today on a G2 1000W
> 
> G2 1300W is in the mail and should arrive today
> 
> Thanks!


This club is pretty much dead as the club starter / owner has not been online for months and has not even bothered to update the thread in all that time either.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> This club is pretty much dead as the club starter / owner has not been online for months and has not even bothered to update the thread in all that time either.


Oh...okay, I see!

Where can I get some answers to my questions, then? Is there some other thread I could copy and paste my post? Should I open a new thread?

Personally, I do not care getting added into some list. As long as I got this excellent device and it works, that's all it matters to me.

Can you answer any of my questions, please, so that I won't have to post the same post elsewhere?









Thanks!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Oh...okay, I see!
> 
> Where can I get some answers to my questions, then? Is there some other thread I could copy and paste my post? Should I open a new thread?
> 
> Personally, I do not care getting added into some list. As long as I got this excellent device and it works, that's all it matters to me.
> 
> Can you answer any of my questions, please, so that I won't have to post the same post elsewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Some video cards dont care if you use one cable and will work just fine, while other wont work very well with one cable and works much better with two cables.
There is no rhyme or reason to this and its totally random so dont ask which cards are which no one knows.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Some video cards dont care if you use one cable and will work just fine, while other wont work very well with one cable and works much better with two cables.
> There is no rhyme or reason to this and its totally random so dont ask which cards are which no one knows.


Okay... My GPU worked for long time now with one dual 6+2 pin PCI-E cable -with the Corsair- I hope it will work equally fine, as well, with these two PCI-E 6+2 pin cables, of this EVGA.

Where can I get an extra 4 pin peripheral cable, though?
Can I purchase any brand of 4 pin peripheral cable or it should be from EVGA? Can I connect the 4 pin peripheral from Corsair? To have my soundcard back, that is.

And where can I connect the pump of my AIO?

Apologies, first time ever I deal with such matters...

Thanks for your patience


----------



## Archea47

As Shilka said: if possible use two homeruns from the PSU rather than daisy-chained connectors. The wires are only rated for so many watts

Your AIO I believe uses SATA power so any SATA cable like for a SATA hard drive

The peripheral cable ... there may be extensions you can use. The EVGA PSU doesn't use standard connectors at the power supply AFAIK so you would need an extension convertor. I would check FCPU


----------



## LostParticle

Regarding my Graphic card's current connection, I do not understand you. I've heard what Shilka said. Here is the back side of my PSU:



From slot VGA1 leaves one PCIE 8pin (6+2) cable and goes to my GPU
From slot VGA2 leaves another PCIE 8pin (6+2) cable and goes to my GPU

This is how I have my GPU connected.

I'll research further about the pump of my AIO, thanks.

Finally, Extensions...?! For the extra 4 pin peripheral cable I require, I need to use...an extension cable?! Isn't there ANY other way to do this?! Can I not get an extra 4-pin peripheral or something and connect it directly on the PSU?! If not, this is almost "disastrous!"...

I have a Corsair Air 540 chassis and my Aquaero is on the "top-backside" of the chassis, where the DVD player is! The soundcard is, of course, plugged onto the motherboard!

Can I not get a separate, extra, 4-pin peripheral cable which will get connected directly on the PSU?

Quote:


> The EVGA PSU doesn't use standard connectors at the power supply AFAIK so you would need an extension convertor. I would check FCPU


What do you mean by this, please?


----------



## Archea47

The configuration you have for VGA is correct then

Your sound card ... is it standard 4-pin molex or a connector the size of your thumbnail? The former isn't a problem at all but I don't recall my G2 1000 having the smaller connector


----------



## LostParticle

My Essence STX II has a standard 4 pin molex connector. So does my Aquaero 5LT

Image of my soundcard's connector

Image of the 5LT


----------



## Archea47

Sorry for the confusion, in that case you can put them both on the same cable included with the system using the Peripheral slot


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Sorry for the confusion, in that case you can put them both on the same cable included with the system using the Peripheral slot


Yes, of course I could do that and I already know it. The problem, as I already said, is that in my chassis, the Corsair Air 540, the Aquaero 5LT is next to the DVD on the top front side of the chassis. The soundcard is on the motherboard, of course.

The distance between those two is very big. This is why I was using two separate 4-pin Peripheral cables with my Corsair PSU. On this chassis the 4-pin connected to the Aquaero was hidden in the back compartment. The 4-pin peripheral feeding the soundcard was coming out from the bottom grommet.

But even IF would compromise and be willing to connect both in the same 4-pin Peripheral, this is impossible because the distance between them is too big.

So, all I can hope for is:
1) A 4-pin Peripheral extension cable. I do not know IF it exists or IF it is recommended = if my soundcard will function 100% properly connected like this
2) Maybe I could connect one of those two in a SATA slot on the PSU? I don't know if it is possible / recommended.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> As Shilka said: if possible use two homeruns from the PSU rather than daisy-chained connectors. The wires are only rated for so many watts
> 
> Your AIO I believe uses SATA power so any SATA cable like for a SATA hard drive
> 
> The peripheral cable ... there may be extensions you can use. The EVGA PSU doesn't use standard connectors at the power supply AFAIK so you would need an extension convertor. I would check FCPU


You can use 2 PCI-E connectors from the same cable (aka daisy-chained) without any problems, its myth that the cable cant handle the wattage needed.
Now if the card is a MSI Lightning or a EVGA Kingpin card then thats where i would say use 2 cables as those cards are just insane power hogs.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You can use 2 PCI-E connectors from the same cable (aka daisy-chained) without any problems, its myth that the cable cant handle the wattage needed.
> Now if the card is a MSI Lightning or a EVGA Kingpin card then thats where i would say use 2 cables as those cards are just insane power hogs.


I believe you.

All this time I have used my GPU with what you call "daisy-chained". My AX 760 (Corsair) offered this GPU cable (the dual) - so, I used it. This EVGA PSU does not offer such GPU cable. It only has "single" ones, not "dual", if I say this correctly. This is the only reason I used two PCIE cables. I had no other way to connect my GPU.

Please, share your knowledge and help me connect my soundcard. This is my problem now.

Thank you.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello again!
> 
> For about an hour now I am the happy owner of the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have installed it on my system and it works great! Haha, what I really mean is that it works since I cannot actually tell how great it works, a complete novice/amateur on PSUs being...
> 
> Two "issues" I have observed, one minor and the other a bit more important - I'd appreciate your help :
> 
> - On my Corsair AX 760 I used one cable to connect my Graphics card (see rig, please); on this EVGA I have to use two separate cables labeled GPU, if I recall correctly. I do not mind this, just out of curiosity though, is it better, the same or worst to use two separate cables connected to two VGA slots in the backside of the PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Now, the most important "issue" which is entirely my responsibility (and fault): NOT enough cables for my devices!...
> 
> Specifically, as shown in my rig, I have an Aquaero 5LT and a soundcard, the Essence STX II. With the AX 760 I had enough cables to connect and use both of those devices. The EVGA 750 G2 though, provides only one cable labeled "Peripherals" (?), and I used this for the Aquaero which controls all my system's fans, besides the CPU cooler.
> 
> So now I do not have sound because I cannot connect my soundcard, hahah!
> 
> - Where can I purchase a cable to connect my soundcard, please, and most importantly, where should I connect this soundcard? Can I connect it to one of the SATA "slots" in the backside of the PSU? Somewhere else?
> 
> And one last question: IF I would wish to connect the pump of my AIO, see rig, directly on the PSU, where should I connect it?
> 
> Thank you and apologies for my English. Some times I get bored writing in English...


If your GPU uses two 8pin connectors then it's best to run two cables. Mine only has 8+6 so use only one cable.

As for the rest it's hard to tell what is your issue. The PSU provides I think 4 molex connectors and tons of SATA power connectors.
If something doesn't reach, then use an extension or convert one of the SATA into molex.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Finally, Extensions...?! For the extra 4 pin peripheral cable I require, I need to use...an extension cable?! Isn't there ANY other way to do this?! Can I not get an extra 4-pin peripheral or something and connect it directly on the PSU?! If not, this is almost "disastrous!"...
> 
> I have a Corsair Air 540 chassis and my Aquaero is on the "top-backside" of the chassis, where the DVD player is! The soundcard is, of course, plugged onto the motherboard!
> 
> Can I not get a separate, extra, 4-pin peripheral cable which will get connected directly on the PSU?
> What do you mean by this, please?


What's the issue? Extensions are fine as long as you don't run hundreds of watts over poorly made extensions. Using extension for CPU, GPU or Mobo is a bad idea for example and be vary of quality.
You don't know what power connector your AIO has? :S
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> My Essence STX II has a standard 4 pin molex connector. So does my Aquaero 5LT
> 
> Image of my soundcard's connector
> 
> Image of the 5LT


If the distance is too big then use an extension, people use them since computers were made exactly for such weird setups.
Molex is dead hence many PSUs have only one connection nowadays and give you a long cable with many connections for it. The rest being many SATA options which are something you normally need much more.

I don't use any molex at all.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> As for the rest it's hard to tell what is your issue. The PSU provides I think 4 molex connectors and tons of SATA power connectors.
> If something doesn't reach, then use an extension or convert one of the SATA into molex.
> What's the issue? Extensions are fine as long as you don't run hundreds of watts over poorly made extensions. Using extension for CPU, GPU or Mobo is a bad idea for example and be vary of quality.


If it's hard for you to understand my issue read better or don't bother! :S
I have never used extensions, I didn't know that they are fine, I have already stated that, and expected for an answer.
This PSU provides one 4-pin Peripheral cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You don't know what power connector your AIO has? :S


Of course I do! What are you talking about? :S
My AIO, shown in my sig-rig, has a 3-pin fan connector. Its pump has a 3-pin fan connector. Everybody knows that! I was just wondering how can I connect it directly on the PSU this time, because until now I was always connecting it on the motherboard, setting the respective fan header at full speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> If the distance is too big then use an extension, people use them since computers were made exactly for such weird setups.
> Molex is dead hence many PSUs have only one connection nowadays and give you a long cable with many connections for it. The rest being many SATA options which are something you normally need much more.


Okay, I have never used extensions this is why I have placed a simple question in a polite manner. I didn't know that using them is perfectly fine. Now that we've established it can you give me a link of a picture (of that extension) to see exactly what you are talking about?

My setup is not "weird" at all. The place I use for my fan controller is one of the best I could use on this specific chassis. Aquaero actually sells some brackets for it to be placed there.
As for molex being dead, okay, whatever...
What I know is that two of my devices require this type of connection.


----------



## LostParticle

Excuse me...

Is this what we are talking about? (4-pin peripheral extension cable)

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mwF65dB46nw0ScVWF9W89Yg.jpg

http://www.qvs.com/images/cc2121p.JPG

?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Excuse me...
> 
> Is this what we are talking about? (4-pin peripheral extension cable)
> 
> http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mwF65dB46nw0ScVWF9W89Yg.jpg
> 
> http://www.qvs.com/images/cc2121p.JPG
> 
> ?


Thats called a molex cable.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thats called a molex cable.


ok









So, is this the extension cable I need then? To make my soundcard work?

ps: I have never used such things.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, is this the extension cable I need then? To make my soundcard work?
> 
> ps: I have never used such things.


If you need a molex extension cable the only ones that are worth a damm are the Bitfenix Alchemy extension cables.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If you need a molex extension cable the only ones that are worth a damm are the Bitfenix Alchemy extension cables.


Is this what you mean?



their web site


----------



## shilka

Yes thats the one, got a few of them myself and i have yet to find cables that are better.
The brand new CableMod cables might be better but those are replacement cables for the PSU and not extension cables.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes thats the one, got a few of them myself and i have yet to find cables that are better.
> The brand new CableMod cables might be better but those are replacement cables for the PSU and not extension cables.


Okay.
Thank you. Tak.

Now please listen to me and give me your help because I wouldn't like to contact the Technical Support (of EVGA) for what seems to be a simple matter:

Synopsis:
- I need to connect my soundcard which has a 4-pin molex connector, with the 4-pin peripheral cable connected to my PSU (PERIF_1 slot). Is the above shown extension cable from Bitfenix the appropriate one, yes or no? Need to confirm this before ordering it! Yes or No? Will I have complete and full functionality and performance of my soundcard if I will power it on via this extension cable? Like it would function if plugged directly on my PSU?

And is the extension (cable) a better solution than the adapter mentioned above? (which I have no idea what it is)

I beg your pardon, but I honestly need to know before placing an order.

I have not regretted purchasing this EVGA PSU. I am sure it is great! I was forced to order it quickly though due to the malfunction of my other one. Not enough time to check out every detail. Please help me establish this purchase and end this subject.

Thank you.


----------



## shilka

What i dont understand is why cant you just use a model cable from the PSU to your soundcard is the cable not long enough or does it not fit?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What i dont understand is why cant you just use a model cable from the PSU to your soundcard is the cable not long enough or does it not fit?


It is not long enough. I have already said that. This PSU provides only one 4-pin Peripheral cable. It goes from the PSU directly to my Aquaero 5LT, situated next to the DVD on my chassis. Now, the soundcard is of course on the motherboard, on the other side of the chassis. It is not long enough. My previous PSU, the AX 760 from Corsair, provided two 4-pin Peripheral cables, at least! This one doesn't, this is why I need this extension.

Is it totally appropriate then?

If you will confirm [that] I won't lose any performance from my soundcard by using this extension, tomorrow I will measure the distance and if it will fit, I will order it. I think there will be no problem though because the extension is 45cm long.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> It is not long enough. I have already said that. This PSU provides only one (1) 4-pin Peripheral cable. It goes from the PSU directly to my Aquaero 5LT, situated next to the DVD on my chassis. Now, the soundcard is of course on the motherboard, on the other side of the chassis. It is not long enough. My previous PSU, the AX 760 from Corsair, provided two 4-pin Peripheral cables, at least! This is why I need this extension.
> 
> Is it totally appropriate then?
> 
> If you will confirm I won't lose any performance from my soundcard by using this extension, tomorrow I will measure the distance and if it will fit, I will order it. I think there will be no problem though because the extension is 45cm long.


Right just double checking, and no there will not be any problems using an extension cable unless its somehow broken.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Right just double checking, and no there will not be any problems using an extension cable unless its somehow broken.


All right!
Thank you very much!

And one last request, please-please!!

Unfortunately, the e-shop from where I will order this extension cable of Bitfenix does not mention the word "Alchemy" on the product tittle, neither can I find a part number or something, to reassure we are talking about the same product. Can you please have a look at the following picture, taken from that shop, and tell me if this is the cable we are talking about?



This is the only pic they have.

I think this is the Alchemy. Am I right?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> All right!
> Thank you very much!
> 
> And one last request, please-please!!
> 
> Unfortunately, the e-shop from where I will order this extension cable from Bitfenix does not mention the word "Alchemy" on the product tittle, neither can I find a part number or something, to reassure we are talking about the same product. Can you please have a look at the following picture, taken from that shop, and tell me if this is the cable we are talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the only pic they have.
> 
> I think this is the Alchemy. Am I right?


Bitfenix only has one cable type so it cant be anything else.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Bitfenix only has one cable type so it cant be anything else.


Ah, okay, thank you very much! Never dealt with such matters, so I'm being clueless.
Order given - I think it will fit.

+ REP.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> lol
> 
> _I have never seen so much ado about nothing._
> It's almost like it's your first time building a PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that's case, congrats, it only gets easier.


Trust me, there are guys doing things much more "in depth" in the watercooling section. Here I can completely understand where he is coming from at least.


----------



## Arizonian

Well the next build is underway. Christamas was nice and supplied this Corsair Obsdian 450D and EVGA White sleeved PSU cables for the 1300 G2 I scored awhile back at a screaming deal.

Got to pay some debt down from the holidays and hope to have a new build done by March.











It is nice to know that I have a EVGA 10 year warranty on this bad boy.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Well the next build is underway. Christamas was nice and supplied this Corsair Obsdian 450D and EVGA White sleeved PSU cables for the 1300 G2 I scored awhile back at a screaming deal.
> 
> Got to pay some debt down from the holidays and hope to have a new build done by March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is nice to know that I have a EVGA 10 year warranty on this bad boy.


Good thing you are here Arizonian i have been meaning to talk to you about this club.
The club owner / starter has not been online for months and many have complained about that and said they wanted someone to run this club and finish it.

I would not mind running it full time only problem is the club is Philistine´s and not mine, but he does not seem like he is in any way interested in running it anymore.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Good thing you are here Arizonian i have been meaning to talk to you about this club.
> The club owner / starter has not been online for months and many have complained about that and said they wanted someone to run this club and finish it.
> 
> I would not mind running it full time only problem is the club is Philistine´s and not mine, but he does not seem like he is in any way interested in running it anymore.


Thank you for letting me know I'll reach out to him. I will PM you and let you know what's up.


----------



## moustang

I have a question. Perhaps it's already been answered somewhere in the previous pages, but I haven't been able to find it.

The EVGA Supernova G2 series PSUs all come with 6+2/6 pin PCIe VGA cables and require an included adapter cable for cards with two 8 pin power inputs.

I personally cannot stand having to use that adapter. It causes a big mess of cables hanging off the video card because one connection is about 4 inches longer than the other. Is there anyone who makes a compatible PCIe VGA cable that is just two 8 pin connectors or two 6+2 pin connectors so I wouldn't have to use that ugly adapter?

Preferably in red, but a black that matches the other cables will do.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> I have a question. Perhaps it's already been answered somewhere in the previous pages, but I haven't been able to find it.
> 
> The EVGA Supernova G2 series PSUs all come with 6+2/6 pin PCIe VGA cables and require an included adapter cable for cards with two 8 pin power inputs.
> 
> I personally cannot stand having to use that adapter. It causes a big mess of cables hanging off the video card because one connection is about 4 inches longer than the other. Is there anyone who makes a compatible PCIe VGA cable that is just two 8 pin connectors or two 6+2 pin connectors so I wouldn't have to use that ugly adapter?
> 
> Preferably in red, but a black that matches the other cables will do.


What are you talking about you dont need to use any adapter cable.
6+2 is the same thing as 8 pin why would you need to use any adapter? the 750 watts has 4x 6+2 pins.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What are you talking about you dont need to use any adapter cable.
> 6+2 is the same thing as 8 pin why would you need to use any adapter? the 750 watts has 4x 6+2 pins.


The VGA cables are split into two connectors that fit into the video card. One connector is a 6+2 pin, but the second is only a 6 pin. There is an adapter to turn the 6 pin into an 8 pin connection.

Like this....



I need that second connector (bottom one in that pic) to be an 8 pin connection without having to use the adapter.



Here is my system:



The red wires going into the video cards is the adapter. You can see where they plug into the black VGA 6 pin connector.


----------



## shilka

The 750 and 850 watts has 4x 6+2 pin cables mine has that and everyone i know has the same amount, what kind of freak one off is yours if it does not have 4x 6+2 pins???

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0750-XR
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR

Sounds like you are not using the right cables


----------



## JackCY

Indeed. I'm already getting tired to look up the correct cable configurations for the 750 and 850 G2 but truth be told only review get it right and on EVGA site it's hell confusing.
Luckily jonny took pics although he did not write it down correctly in the reivew, no more going to find the manual again in my own box.

This is what 750 and 850 G2 ships with. Why would you need some crazy conversion or expansions/extensions is beyond me.



850 G2 has:
2x 6+2 = 8pin = GPU 1 (8+8pin)
2x 6+2 + 6 = 8pin + 6pin = GPU 2 (8+8pin)

With 750 G2 same thing, connect all the VGA cables, they are all 8pin and you need all 4.

I bet you are trying to run each GPU only on one cable instead of two. Hoping you could get 8+8pin cable somewhere to do that. The single cables can probably handle it but why bother with conversion/extension and not use as designed two cables per GPU. You've got 2x8pin GPU so it's kind of mandatory by default. Maybe some PSUs makers supply 2x8pin on a single cable but EVGA doesn't at least not with 750/850 G2.


----------



## jumpy2219

Very happy with this PSU, its sexy, and running amazing. I also did a review for it, lookies


----------



## Blaise170

Yeah so I forgot this thing had an ECO switch... looked at it last night because it felt warm and the fan was off. It freaked me out a bit until I realized it was designed for that.


----------



## shilka

I dont even have the eco mode on mine turned on, i cant hear the fan anyway so why not leave fan on and let the PSU get as much air as it can.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont even have the eco mode on mine turned on, i cant hear the fan anyway *so why not leave fan on and let the PSU get as much air as it can.*


*^THIS!*

as i keep preaching - it's _TEMPS_ that "age" (dries out) capacitors - not time.


----------



## shilka

My two Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming cards makes way more noise then the G2 does, if i turn the case fan to max they make even more noise so my G2 is pretty the most quiet thing in my PC.
I really cant understand those that complain about the G2 being loud its not something i can recognize.

Only time i can hear the G2 is if i open up my case take the PSU cover out of the PC and stick my ear right up to the G2 then i can hear it.


----------



## Blaise170

Yeah I turned it on and I was surprised by how quiet it was so I figured why not leave it on.


----------



## JackCY

It's quiet but I can definitely hear the ball bearing rolling when I turn it on. All my other fans in the case (FD R4) run at around 500rpm (stock FD fans + cheap Gelids, no fancy Noctuas). Trying it now, without headphones, yeah, definitely a ball bearing rolling sound, not a sound from airflow, not at all, but the metal sound of the ball bearing is audible, it's high in frequency too. Say comparable to an HDD spinning but not seeking, you can still hear it spinning, at last I can even when it is suspended inside a case.

With headphones, loud office room, gaming, or something, sure you won't hear something like a ball bearing rolling.

I can hear PSUs if they whine, laptop PSUs, mobile phone chargers, appliance power supplies, electronics especially networking equipment when transferring data at high speed (router, on board LAN on mobo), GPU whine (especially noticeable when it's rendering too fast, say hundreds and thousands of FPS when game developers forget to set fps limit for the game menu), ...
Depends how well one can hear really and how quiet a room you have.

You could always put the PSU intake inside the case and have the airflow push or pull a bit of air through the PSU out or in.

50-60C on heatsinks at room 25C in hybrid mode, I see as pretty cool. Last time I turned the hybrid mode off while the PC was under load, gaming or stress testing or something all it does is blow warm air out of the PSU, but nothing extremely hot or burning hot.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> *[snip]*
> 50-60C on heatsinks at room 25C in hybrid mode, I see as pretty cool. Last time I turned the hybrid mode off while the PC was under load, gaming or stress testing or something all it does is blow warm air out of the PSU, but nothing extremely hot or burning hot.


no 50c-60c is NOT cool for a PSU.

it is not a gpu or cpu with silicon; there are electrolytic capacitors that have a life rating in relation to temp. for instance a cap rated @105c with a load life of 1,000 hours. but for every 10c below the rated temp will double the load life:
(95c-2,000 85c- 4,000 75c-8,000 65c-16,000 55c-32,000 45c-64,000 35c-128,000)

so running 55c instead of 45c will mean over a 3.5 year difference in life expectancy.

and i believe 50c-60c is jonnyguru's "hotbox" testing or what other reviewers consider the "torture test" to see if efficiency drops . . .far.

. . . . just saying.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> no 50c-60c is NOT cool for a PSU.
> 
> it is not a gpu or cpu with silicon; there are electrolytic capacitors that have a life rating in relation to temp. for instance a cap rated @105c with a load life of 1,000 hours. but for every 10c below the rated temp will double the load life:
> (95c-2,000 85c- 4,000 75c-8,000 65c-16,000 55c-32,000 45c-64,000 35c-128,000)
> 
> so running 55c instead of 45c will mean over a 3.5 year difference in life expectancy.
> 
> and i believe 50c-60c is jonnyguru's "hotbox" testing or what other reviewers consider the "torture test" to see if efficiency drops . . .far.
> 
> . . . . just saying.


EVGA has a 10 year warranty on these things in any case.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> EVGA has a 10 year warranty on these things in any case.


so a warranty makes a product disposable until it runs out?









no, it insures workmanship, it's not a license for negligence.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so a warranty makes a product disposable until it runs out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no, it insures workmanship, it's not a license for negligence.


They were designed to be run in eco mode, if the device dies because of a feature included with it, that's not negligence on the part of the end user.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> They were designed to be run in eco mode, if the device dies because of a feature included with it, that's not negligence on the part of the end user.


no, probably not. though if a car is designed to go faster than the speed limit, then the driver is not negligent for speeding, huh?

sure, blaming the design supersedes taking reasonable care.








lets take a look at a better analogy; intel cpus are designed to run maximum of 100c @ 1.5 voltage. there is even an extended warranty one can purchase.

how many _responsible users_ run them to those extremes?

none.

the point(s) is/are:

50c-60c is not a desirable operating temperature for a PSU (which was the point i made before you wanted to jump on and include) and even with a warranty or designed features, _it is still up to the user to take reasonable care with their product._


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



everything i buy i intend to keep for as long as possible. if a part of the design may cause it's life to be limited or a failure; i don't rely on a warranty but either fix it or avoid using it all together unless it impedes my usage - then i return it and ask for a refund or suitable replacement.


----------



## 241pizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> no, probably not. though if a car is designed to go faster than the speed limit, then the driver is not negligent for speeding, huh?
> 
> sure, blaming the design supersedes taking reasonable care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets take a look at a better analogy; intel cpus are designed to run maximum of 100c @ 1.5 voltage. there is even an extended warranty one can purchase.
> 
> how many _responsible users_ run them to those extremes?
> 
> none.
> 
> the point(s) is/are:
> 
> 50c-60c is not a desirable operating temperature for a PSU (which was the point i made before you wanted to jump on and include) and even with a warranty or designed features, _it is still up to the user to take reasonable care with their product._
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> everything i buy i intend to keep for as long as possible. if a part of the design may cause it's life to be limited or a failure; i don't rely on a warranty but either fix it or avoid using it all together unless it impedes my usage - then i return it and ask for a refund or suitable replacement.


Sorry but that logic makes no sense at all.

If the PSU offers a "feature" and is advertised as such, and is a selling feature, you advise that using said feature is not responsible behavior?

Following your car analogy; it like paying for a six speed but only using 5th as not to prematurely wear out the engine? ( a speed limit has nothing at all to do with the warranty of the car )

Using a product as advertised is not being irresponsible, it getting what you PAID for.

I paid for ECO mode, they agreed to a 10 year warrenty as a business decision, I am suppose to feel bad if I need to use it?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *241pizza*
> 
> Sorry but that logic makes no sense at all.
> 
> If the PSU offers a "feature" and is advertised as such, and is a selling feature, you advise that using said feature is not responsible behavior?
> 
> Following your car analogy; it like paying for a six speed but only using 5th as not to prematurely wear out the engine? ( a speed limit has nothing at all to do with the warranty of the car )
> 
> Using a product as advertised is not being irresponsible, it getting what you PAID for.
> 
> I paid for ECO mode, they agreed to a 10 year warrenty as a business decision, I am suppose to feel bad if I need to use it?


ah right this went wwwaaayyyyy off now.

look if anyone wants to use the eco feature at the potential cost of the life expectancy of their psu well, ya know, that's their business. btw the car analogy pertained to negligence not anything about a warranty.









my point the i made was to inform another was that 50c to 60c is NOT a good temp for a psu *period.* as far as i am concerned, when a product is bought EXPECT it to last longer than its warranty and if means doing without a _marketing feature_ than i would advise to go without it.

and with that i am done - this is an owners thread where one would expect an exchange of technical information of the product; not an ethical debate.

and OSU just scored again *GO BUCKS!*


----------



## Spork13

On a lighter not, this got me wondering if I had eco-mode on or off.
Flipped the switch on my PSU.
Computer shuts down...

Eco mode is the LITTLE switch, not the big one.
/facepalm

nb: eco mode was OFF. Honestly can't hear the PSU fan over the 3 intake fans, the 2 exhaust fans, the 2 cpu fans and the 5 gpu fans...


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spork13*
> 
> On a lighter not, this got me wondering if I had eco-mode on or off.
> Flipped the switch on my PSU.
> Computer shuts down...
> 
> Eco mode is the LITTLE switch, not the big one.
> /facepalm
> 
> nb: eco mode was OFF. Honestly can't hear the PSU fan over the 3 intake fans, the 2 exhaust fans, the 2 cpu fans and the 5 gpu fans...


LOL

It's the small one, the slide one not the big rocky one haha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> no 50c-60c is NOT cool for a PSU.
> 
> it is not a gpu or cpu with silicon; there are electrolytic capacitors that have a life rating in relation to temp. for instance a cap rated @105c with a load life of 1,000 hours. but for every 10c below the rated temp will double the load life:
> (95c-2,000 85c- 4,000 75c-8,000 65c-16,000 55c-32,000 45c-64,000 35c-128,000)
> 
> so running 55c instead of 45c will mean over a 3.5 year difference in life expectancy.
> 
> and i believe 50c-60c is jonnyguru's "hotbox" testing or what other reviewers consider the "torture test" to see if efficiency drops . . .far.
> 
> . . . . just saying.


I've looked up the parameters for secondary caps, I guess the main 12V output. They are Nippon chemicon KZEs with "only" 5000h life instead of their other series that go to 10000h, that's at 105C.
I got the formula to calculate lifetime but it has values that are not in datasheet, so I will use the one everyone seems to use and that is double the lifetime with every 10C drop.



105C = 5kh
95C = 10kh
85C = 20kh
75C = 30kh
65C = 40kh
55C = 50kh
45C = 60kh

Now when I looked up temperatures I looked at air temperatures inside PSU in a hot box, so lets not pretend the PSU runs in a hotbox and see the normal room temps.
25C intake, say 40C exhaust. Heatsink 50-60C.
That's pretty much running on the lowest for the capacitor as if it is lower than 40C they, say 20C they will use 40C to calculate the lifetime anyway.
Lets pretend the capacitor is cooking at 45C?

That's 60,000h = 6.85 years.

Not much huh? Well that's because it's the simple dumb formula 10C drop doubles lifetime that doesn't count in ripple nor voltage.
So lets try the more proper formula?
http://www.elna-america.com/products/pdf_files/AL/al_technotes.pdf
http://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/tech-center/life-calculators.aspx

Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:

L2 = L1 * (Vr/Vo) * 2^((Tmax-Ta)/10) = 5000 * 16/12 * 2^((105-45)/10) = 5000 * 4/3 * 64 = 426666.67h = *48.7 years @ 45C*

Damn it, the calculator had it right I got confused by the stupid American thousands separator which is decimal point for me normally haha. So yeah just put it in the illinoiscapacitor calculator.

45C = 48.7y
55C = 24.35y
65C = 12.17y
75C = you've guessed it 6.09y and it's less than the warranty is

The capacitors should last just fine. Sure they like lower temperatures and temps. are the main thing that affects their performance and lifetime but they will still last fairly long.
And the numbers above are probably a 24/7 use, not your average 8-16h of use when the rest of the time the caps are not used.
They sure age by themselves too, but not hammering them to the limit 24/7 will prolong their lifetime as well.

Sure it used to be said decades ago that when something died all one did was replace caps. But these days what I rather see is that high power equipment burns out, like vacuum cleaners etc. or electronics dies/becomes unusable with their own screwed up glitches in firmware that are unrelated to power delivery. Like routers, they don't care about power, but they get screwed up because of their firmware/software that has bugs. Phones and other gadgets too, firmware/OS issues.
Sure I've seen balloon like caps on a very old mobo but it ran anyway and the cheapo ATX PSU from that rig still runs as my 350W lab PSU.

I wouldn't really worry about capacitors these days. Most PC electronics have moved to good caps. high temp. higher lifetime caps or solid caps on mobos/GPUs. Maybe we will see more solid caps in PSUs soon too, that's what they seem to be made for anyway. Maybe the capacities for solid caps. are not yet as high as the wet ones? Or they are too large in dimensions.

*Conclusion: don't worry about caps running at half of their rated temperature.*

The main issue in PSUs in regards to temps are the silicon parts, FETs, but even those can nowadays handle insane amounts of power. A tiny FET in my flashlight can handle 15A. The resistances in switching components are very very low unless you pick some old dud.
Hence we see more and more powerful PSUs with better and better efficiency, it's mostly due to advancement in the FETs and partly caps. that filter better.

I hope though that they will soon realize we don't need so powerful PSUs and there is a gap in the normal user without SLI/CF PSU market when it comes to top notch PSUs, there sure are many usable ones, cheap ones, but not so many really good ones. Gold/Platinum 450-550W, low ripple, low sag, rare and expensive.


----------



## VSG

On the big 1600P2 and 1600T2, the eco mode switch is an actual switch. Just on the side of the cables for whatever reason.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've looked up the parameters for secondary caps, I guess the main 12V output. They are Nippon chemicon KZEs with "only" 5000h life instead of their other series that go to 10000h, that's at 105C.
> I got the formula to calculate lifetime but it has values that are not in datasheet, so I will use the one everyone seems to use and that is double the lifetime with every 10C drop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 105C = 5kh
> 95C = 10kh
> 85C = 20kh
> 75C = 30kh
> 65C = 40kh
> 55C = 50kh
> 45C = 60kh
> 
> Now when I looked up temperatures I looked at air temperatures inside PUS in a hot box, so lets not pretend the PSU runs in a hotbox and see the normal room temps.
> 25C intake, say 40C exhaust. *Heatsink 50-60C.*
> That's pretty much running on the lowest for the capacitor as if it is lower than 40C they, say 20C they will use 40C to calculate the lifetime anyway.
> Lets pretend *the capacitor is cooking at 45C?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's 60,000h = 6.85 years
> 
> Not much huh? Well that's because it's the simple dumb formula 10C drop doubles lifetime that doesn't count in ripple nor voltage.
> So lets try the more proper formula?
> http://www.elna-america.com/products/pdf_files/AL/al_technotes.pdf
> http://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/tech-center/life-calculators.aspx
> 
> Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:
> 
> L2 = L1 * (Vr/Vo) * 2^((Tmax-Ta)/10) = 5000 * 16/12 * 2^(105-45) = 5000 * 4/3 * 64 = 426666.67h = *48.7 years @ 45C*
> 
> Damn it, the calculator had it right I got confused by the stupid American thousands separator which is decimal point for me normally haha. So yeah just put it in the illinoiscapacitor calculator.
> 
> 45C = 48.7y
> 55C = 24.35y
> 65C = 12.17y
> 75C = you've guessed it 6.09y and it's less than the warranty is
> 
> The capacitors should last just fine. Sure they like lower temperatures and temps. are the main thing that affects their performance and lifetime but they will still last fairly long.
> And the numbers above are probably a 24/7 use, not your average 8-16h of use when the rest of the time the caps are not used.
> They sure age by themselves too, but not hammering them to the limit 24/7 will prolong their lifetime as well.
> 
> Sure it used to be said decades ago that when something died all one did was replace caps. But these days what I rather see is that high power equipment burns out, like vacuum cleaners etc. or electronics dies/becomes unusable with their own screwed up glitches in firmware that are unrelated to power delivery. Like routers, they don't care about power, but they get screwed up because of their firmware/software that has bugs. Phones and other gadgets too, firmware/OS issues.
> Sure I've seen balloon like caps on a very old mobo but it ran anyway and the cheapo ATX PSU from that rig still runs as my 350W lab PSU.
> 
> I wouldn't really worry about capacitors these days. Most PC electronics have moved to good caps. high temp. higher lifetime caps or solid caps on mobos/GPUs. Maybe we will see more solid caps in PSUs soon too, that's what they seem to be made for anyway. Maybe the capacities for solid caps. are not yet as high as the wet ones? Or they are too large in dimensions.
> 
> *Conclusion: don't worry about caps running at half of their rated temperature.*
> 
> The main issue in PSUs in regards to temps are the silicon parts, FETs, but even those can nowadays handle insane amounts of power. A tiny FET in my flashlight can handle 15A. The resistances in switching components are very very low unless you pick some old dud.
> Hence we see more and more powerful PSUs with better and better efficiency, it's mostly due to advancement in the FETs and partly caps. that filter better.
> 
> I hope though that they will soon realize we don't need so powerful PSUs and there is a gap in the normal user without SLI/CF PSU market when it comes to top notch PSUs, there sure are many usable ones, cheap ones, but not so many really good ones. Gold/Platinum 450-550W, low ripple, low sag, rare and expensive.


i see where i misunderstood and i thank you for taking the time to explain and post that.









+1


----------



## JackCY

Thanks.

No prob. I was curious myself what the actual life expectancy of the capacitors is. You never know








Corsair in one article, *where the picture is from*, calculated for their caps. at least 15 years life expectancy with the params they used for their RM850, they had 4000h at 105C and used operating temperatures half of the rating.
There is some more info about caps. and solid caps too I see.

Now caps do degrade a little over time, but still I think they should be top notch for the 10 years under warranty and that's a long time. If they run 25C or 45C is not such a big difference at least the known equations don't go that low with temperatures. Some params are locked on 40C some even already at 65C, so calculating for anything lower one uses those higher numbers. It's all just guessing anyway, from what the capacitor manufacturers shared and know so far.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 10 years under warranty and that's a long time


It really is a long time, if you look at a power supply from 10 years ago now, it doesn't even compare to the ones we have now.


----------



## fuloran1

Sign me up, got the 750 G2


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fuloran1*
> 
> Sign me up, got the 750 G2


You cant be signed up to the owners list as the club is dead and no longer updated.
A few more weeks at most and this club will be mine if Philistine does not respond, it will get a massive update and be finished then.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You cant be signed up to the owners list as the club is dead and no longer updated.
> A few more weeks at most and this club will be mine if Philistine does not respond, it will get a massive update and be finish then.


Good, I hope you get it. You are way more active than most in the PSUs section.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You cant be signed up to the owners list as the club is dead and no longer updated.
> A few more weeks at most and this club will be mine if Philistine does not respond, it will get a massive update and be finished then.


They should give you earlier than for few weeks, now G2/P2/T2 lines are complete and deserve nice topic and newest information.
Now in January my Sleeve Set should arrive. I chose Black color.


----------



## Archea47

I loved using the EVGA cables for my 1300 G2


----------



## ozlay

now that the 1600w T2 is out might have to get it for sr2 been wanting to over volt the cards more









http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Titanium-1600-Watt-220-T2-1600-X1/dp/B00R33ZBQU


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I loved using the EVGA cables for my 1300 G2


That pic gets me excited. I'm sitting on the same white cables for my 1300 G2. Just waiting for tax time end of Feb to complete build.

_Mobo, CPU & CPU Cooling is all I'm missing._

I already complemented you on your white aesthetics for cooling in the 290X Club. Nice work.


----------



## ZeDestructor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I loved using the EVGA cables for my 1300 G2


Anti-kink coils.. haven't seen those in a while...

Looking good!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> That pic gets me excited. I'm sitting on the same white cables for my 1300 G2. Just waiting for tax time end of Feb to complete build.
> 
> _Mobo, CPU & CPU Cooling is all I'm missing._
> 
> I already complemented you on your white aesthetics for cooling in the 290X Club. Nice work.


Thank you sir! Yeah the cables are too nice - much better than the extensions I used to use and NO RED STUFF!







I originally used red dye in the coolant when I got the 1000 G2 because ... why did EVGA use red for VGA??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeDestructor*
> 
> Anti-kink coils.. haven't seen those in a while...
> 
> Looking good!


Thanks! Yeah I need them (kink coils). The last time I did the loop I had larger bends and they still collapsed with Primochill advanced LRT (3/8x1/2) over time. With the anti-kink I was able to do the loop order I wanted rather than having to do whatever wouldn't kink


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I loved using the EVGA cables for my 1300 G2


WOW that's nice. I order black cables but I non stop think did I wrong.
Maybe I could use red. White are pointless because I don't have white hardware and no plans for white hardware.
I think black are nice. They will be visible I saved EVGA velco tracks from NEX1500... like this...I think 4 black and 2 red.
I will tight cables with them...



EVGA launched new line 850 GS(Gold), 1050 G2(Gold) 1000 PS (Platinum) and prepare
1000 T2 and 1200 T2 Titanium standard, that would be awesome units.
1000 T2 will be most wanted unit worldwide I think. Off course 1600 T2 are available now.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The 750 and 850 watts has 4x 6+2 pin cables mine has that and everyone i know has the same amount, what kind of freak one off is yours if it does not have 4x 6+2 pins???
> 
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0750-XR
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR
> 
> Sounds like you are not using the right cables


I don't think you know what you're talking about.

Here are the cables that EVGA ships with.



On the top-right cable, count how many pins there are. Do you see 6, or 6+2 on that end?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The 750 and 850 watts has 4x 6+2 pin cables mine has that and everyone i know has the same amount, what kind of freak one off is yours if it does not have 4x 6+2 pins???
> 
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0750-XR
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=220-G2-0850-XR
> 
> Sounds like you are not using the right cables


I have the EVGA Supernova 850 G2.

Sorry to hear that you and all of your friends have the 750 G2, and thus are totally unaware that the 850 G2 has two 6+2 pin cables and two 6+2 + 6 pin cables. You will see this clearly specified if you look at page 6 of your owners manual.

The manual says:
VGA 1 and 2 = 6+2 pin
VGA 3 and 4 = 6+2 pin + 6 pin.

It's less clearly listed on your own link if you had bothered to read it. 4x 8pin (6+2), 2x 6pin = Two 6+2 pin and two 6+2 pin + 6 pin on a single cable.

For me this means I have to choose between using the two 8 pin + 6 pin cable and the included 8 pin adapter, or using all four VGA cables and having two 6 pin connectors dangling loose next to the video cards.

I wish it had the same cables as the 750 G2 so I wouldn't be stuck with two 6 pin connectors dangling loose or using a crummy adapter, but that's what comes with the 850 G2.


----------



## Blaise170

My 850 was shipped with two 6+2+6 as well.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moustang*
> 
> I don't think you know what you're talking about.
> 
> Here are the cables that EVGA ships with.
> 
> 
> 
> On the top-right cable, count how many pins there are. Do you see 6, or 6+2 on that end?
> I have the EVGA Supernova 850 G2.
> 
> Sorry to hear that you and all of your friends have the 750 G2, and thus are totally unaware that the 850 G2 has two 6+2 pin cables and two 6+2 + 6 pin cables. You will see this clearly specified if you look at page 6 of your owners manual.
> 
> The manual says:
> VGA 1 and 2 = 6+2 pin
> VGA 3 and 4 = 6+2 pin + 6 pin.
> 
> It's less clearly listed on your own link if you had bothered to read it. 4x 8pin (6+2), 2x 6pin = Two 6+2 pin and two 6+2 pin + 6 pin on a single cable.
> 
> For me this means I have to choose between using the two 8 pin + 6 pin cable and the included 8 pin adapter, or using all four VGA cables and having two 6 pin connectors dangling loose next to the video cards.
> 
> I wish it had the same cables as the 750 G2 so I wouldn't be stuck with two 6 pin connectors dangling loose or using a crummy adapter, but that's what comes with the 850 G2.


As seen here. You were hoping to not have anything left unused on the cables or even run just one 8+8 cable. No such thing here unless you make your own cables.

If those dangling connectors bother you, take wire cutters and snip them off, easy solution







You will end up with the cable set that 750 G2 has in regards to PCI-E.

750 G2 has cables for 2 GPUs, 8+8 & 8+8.
850 G2 has cables for 3 GPUs, 8+8 & 8+6 & 8+6.
Unless you run some low end single connector cards.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> As seen here. You were hoping to not have anything left unused on the cables or even run just one 8+8 cable. No such thing here unless you make your own cables.
> 
> If those dangling connectors bother you, take wire cutters and snip them off, easy solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will end up with the cable set that 750 G2 has in regards to PCI-E.
> 
> 750 G2 has cables for 2 GPUs, 8+8 & 8+8.
> 850 G2 has cables for 3 GPUs, 8+8 & 8+6 & 8+6.
> Unless you run some low end single connector cards.


I've got a different solution now.

My 850 G2 failed. Had to RMA it. Obviously I wasn't going to sit for 2+ weeks with no computer to use so I bought a 750 G2 to use while waiting for the 850 to be returned, so now I have both sets of cables.

Problem solved, but it's an expensive solution.


----------



## JackCY

What did you do to it that it failed? *shrug* Poor PSU! RMA with missing cables, that wouldn't pass here, maybe in US it does? Who knows.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> What did you do to it that it failed? *shrug* Poor PSU! *RMA with missing cables*, that wouldn't pass here, maybe in US it does? Who knows.


In the US, they specifically state to not send accessories with your rma. They don't want to be responsible for your cables because they may send you just a bare unit back. This is generally the policy for all rma I've done.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> In the US, they specifically state to not send accessories with your rma. They don't want to be responsible for your cables because they may send you just a bare unit back. This is generally the policy for all rma I've done.


I see. In EU it goes through a shop and shop wants it all, all that was in the box when you got it. Because you may get a whole new and sealed unit, or a replaced/fixed one (not sure manufacturers still do that these days with PC components) or money back, you never really know for sure.


----------



## moustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> What did you do to it that it failed? *shrug* Poor PSU! RMA with missing cables, that wouldn't pass here, maybe in US it does? Who knows.


Didn't do anything at all. It just shut off one day and wouldn't power on again. Not even after removing the PSU and using the jumper to try to turn it on without it being connected to anything else. It wouldn't even spin the fan. Just dead. Obviously EVGA didn't find anything wrong with it that I may have caused either because I sent it directly to them and they sent me a replacement without question.

And as tsm106 said, in the US it is EVGA's policy to send only the PSU in for warranty RMA. They specifically tell you on their website not to include any cables or accessories, only the bare PSU. That's because you're shipping it back to EVGA themselves, and they only want to pay for shipping the PSU to save money on shipping costs.


----------



## Arizonian

*Quick Announcement*

I'd like to thank Philistine for his contribution to this club thread. He's decided to hand over responsibility of thread starter to another member. With that said I'd like to thank shilka for taking over the reigns, I know we're still in good hands. Thanks to both of you.









@Philistine
@shilka


----------



## looniam

i too would like to thank Philistine for his time and effort. but i do have one very important question:
Quote:


> We need a sig for the club. Given the limited signatures OCN allows please submit a sig formatted at max two lines of text (based on a screen a resolution of 1080p). Who's ever submission I pick will receive a dozen chocolate chip cookies. Seriously. I can bake some really good cookies.


is that still an open offer?


----------



## shilka

Can anyone tell when (which page) Philistine stoped adding new members?
Need to add everyone that never got added.

Need to update the OP as well.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Can anyone tell when (which page) Philistine stoped adding new members?
> Need to add everyone that never got added.
> 
> Need to update the OP as well.


The last one added was istudy92 post #29.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The last one added was istudy92 post #29.


That long ago jesus.
Thank you i will have to start adding people as wel as updating the OP, but it will have to be later as i am busy right now.


----------



## Kimir

Page 1 yeah, see post #36, it was the only page he added members to the list.
I pm'ed him about the Google spreadsheet like we were talking about in this post, but never got reply after that.


----------



## shilka

Well to be honest i have no idea what to put in the OP right now i am completely blank.
I was thinking pictures of the G2/P2/T2/Leadex and link to reviews but other then that i got nothing.


----------



## JackCY

A summary of all the crazy versions available. Like in FAQ: Recommended Power Supplies.
Links to website, links to decent reviews. Jonny, TPU, ...
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html


----------



## shilka

Updated the OP with some more info.


----------



## magbarn

I hope I can reach somebody here who's tried both the G2 and the P2 under load.

I have a 4790K o/c system with 290x CF o/c to 1150 with +20 mV cooled with 2x G10 with H90's running at the slowest fan speed. My almost 5 year AX850 runs loud and hot even after being cleaned. I'm pulling about 780 watts or so from the wall while gaming DAI/SOM. I know the P2 1000 is much quieter than the G2 1000 when putting out around 600-700 watts, but is it worth the price difference?


----------



## Kriant

Quick question: Is it reasonable to swap Lepa G1600 to SuperNova 1600 G2? Reason I am asking, is that I am seeing that newegg has it for 259.99 after rebate.....


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> Quick question: Is it reasonable to swap Lepa G1600 to SuperNova 1600 G2? Reason I am asking, is that I am seeing that newegg has it for 259.99 after rebate.....


Very much so as the voltage regulation on the 12v rail on your Lepa is some of the worst ever and cant even stay within ATX specifications

Your Lepa 1600 watts


The G2 1600 watts compare


This is a MASSIVE difference!.
Ripple suppression is also better on the G2 but only by about 10-12mv.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Very much so as the voltage regulation on the 12v rail on your Lepa is some of the worst ever and cant even stay within ATX specifications
> 
> Your Lepa 1600 watts
> 
> 
> The G2 1600 watts compare
> 
> 
> This is a MASSIVE difference!.
> Ripple suppression is also better on the G2 but only by about 10-12mv.


I was looking at Jonnyguru's review, when buying it, and nowhere did I see that issue. Maybe techpowerup got a bad unit?
But thanks for the input. I am seriously considering that G2 unit. Mostly because i7 5930k is a hog when you're OCing, and Lepa has a skimpy 12v1 20A rail for CPU, which requires to plug a separate cable with 4pin into one of the 4 other rails, and it is shared with one of the GPUs. A massive 12v rail seem to be a better choice for quad-fire and that CPU and 8 ram sticks


----------



## shilka

Maybe TPU just got a bad one but the one JG got is still 2,3% which is not all that great either.
The G2 is both newer and much better in pretty much all areas other then size the Lepa is a little bit smaller.

But anyone that needs a 1600 watts PSU does not have a small case i presume.


----------



## TheGRig

Hey Shilka you should add B2 series to this club as well, its a pretty good series for a budget build as I have one and would love to join the highend EVGA PSU Club


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGRig*
> 
> Hey Shilka you should add B2 series to this club as well, its a pretty good series for a budget build as I have one and would love to join the highend EVGA PSU Club


Those are not Leadex based so no, the B2 series are based on the much older and not as good Super Flower Golden Green platform.


----------



## Kriant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Maybe TPU just got a bad one but the one JG got is still 2,3% which is not all that great either.
> The G2 is both newer and much better in pretty much all areas other then size the Lepa is a little bit smaller.
> 
> But anyone that needs a 1600 watts PSU does not have a small case i presume.


Xigmatek Elysium. "where size isn't an issue".


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kriant*
> 
> Xigmatek Elysium. "where size isn't an issue".


If i recall that case is massive.
Post number 26.500 lol


----------



## damric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGRig*
> 
> Hey Shilka you should add B2 series to this club as well, its a pretty good series for a budget build as I have one and would love to join the highend EVGA PSU Club


They aren't LEADEX, but they are still pretty awesome. Perhaps you should make a club for Golden Green/B2/CAPSTONE.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damric*
> 
> They aren't LEADEX, but they are still pretty awesome. Perhaps you should make a club for Golden Green/B2/CAPSTONE.


Rosewill LIGHTNING is Golden Green as well.


----------



## shilka

The number of Golden Green based units is huge as its one of the most common platforms out there.
I often have trouble keeping track of the Golden Green rebrands.


----------



## damric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The number of Golden Green based units is huge as its one of the most common platforms out there.
> I often have trouble keeping track of the Golden Green rebrands.


True, and there is also the sucky version of the Golden Green with cheaper caps.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damric*
> 
> True, and there is also the sucky version of the Golden Green with cheaper caps.


Such as the Golden Green HX which is a downgrade of the old Golden Green


----------



## JackCY

Leadex only here.

Feel free to find/make a Golden Green club.
Good luck with keeping track of all the rebrands


----------



## shilka

I have been thinking about making a detailed description of the whole EVGA SuperNova lineup with every model explained as it seems not many can keep track or know that it has both rubbish and good stuff mixied together.

Seems like some cant figure out how to use the search function and find these threads.
Why you should not buy an EVGA SuperNova NEX650G/750G
Why you should not buy an EVGA SuperNova NEX750B


----------



## damric

lol, I got all that stuff bookmarked and a lot of Phaedrus stuff too.


----------



## Feyris

tbh the only thing i worry about is what I do if my Superflower fails since its not really OEM lol but I love it so much


----------



## VSG

One step closer to world domination







Here I was thinking there's no way this was heavier than the 1600G2! The box as it arrives is absolutely ridiculous in terms of its density and that handle at the top got a real workout- as did I lifting and carrying it around









I did notice something interesting:



The ATX cable has a label that suggests this is for the 1600T2 or the 2000 W monster only. I wonder what's different here compared to that in the 1600G2 or 1600P2- more caps? Thicker gauge?


----------



## shilka

Hope we are going to see a P2 or T2 lower then 1000 watts.
Finished updating the OP anything anyone think is missing or could be better?


----------



## VSG

It is an owners club. So any chance you can get the members list in there too? I believe it's not possible to transfer ownership of the 2nd post but it would be good to confirm.


----------



## shilka

I will have to ask a mod about that.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It is an owners club. So any chance you can get the members list in there too? I believe it's not possible to transfer ownership of the 2nd post but it would be good to confirm.


It's not possible to just transfer over the second post to someone. Only the initial post can be transferred to a new thread starter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I will have to ask a mod about that.


Since you were pretty quick to respond all I had to do was sacrificed a few posts and you are now the second and third posts in this club. The second post is reserved for a members list or anything else you may desire now since you are the new thread starter.









Great job on the original post and all your information you provided as usual.


----------



## VSG

Yay, great job there man


----------



## shilka

I dont have time before next week to make an owners list.
Its not going to be easier as i need to figure out who wants to be added and who dont.

Would it be easier to just start over from fresh?


----------



## JackCY

Add me:


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont have time before next week to make an owners list.
> Its not going to be easier as i need to figure out who wants to be added and who dont.
> 
> Would it be easier to just start over from fresh?


There were only six members on the list. So to help I'll go through all 68 pages and find the submissions. When I have the list compiled I will PM it and you can post it however you feel.


----------



## Kimir

You could just do as I said in my post in first page here.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> There were only six members on the list. So to help I'll go through all 68 pages and find the submissions. When I have the list compiled I will PM it and you can post it however you feel.


That would be super helpful so thank you very much.
I am at work working a 12 hour night shift right now and the internet sucks big time here, so i am not going to get anything done before i am home and have gotten a few hours of sleep.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> That would be super helpful so thank you very much.
> I am at work working a 12 hour night shift right now and the internet sucks big time here, so i am not going to get anything done before i am home and have gotten a few hours of sleep.


Ok PM sent Shilka with list of 36 members 44 PSU's in order to how they were entered with member, PSU and the link of proof submitted.









As long as you provided a pic you were entered, OCN name showing or not. If you don't see your name that's because I didn't see a submission with any pic.



Spoiler: member list



Kimir
Arizonian
Roaches
904bangingsys
carlhil2
Admiral AnimE
Neocoolzero
Dasboogieman
Vardamir
geggeg
Dsrt
MrGrievous
Blaise170
lifeisshort117
Wolfsbora
Gunderman456
looniam
QAKE
Gobigorgohome
szeged
VulgarDisplay88
LA_Kings_Fan
Silent Scone
midnytwarrior
daddyd302
JackCY
evoll88
shilka
chronicfx
Bond32
Vlada011
Aluc13
mauley
DR4G00N
moustang
jumpy2219
Archea47



Shilka the rest is up to you when ever you have spare time. All good now.


----------



## Kimir

your list is wrong, where I am in there?! I was one of the first in the list... I suppose that's because you took the few posts after the OP and mine got deleted.
see post #27


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> your list is wrong, where I am in there?! I was one of the first in the list... I suppose that's because you took the few posts after the OP and mine got deleted.
> see post #27


I didn't see a picture as proof. So I missed it. We believe you. So will submit that link as the proof and slot you #1.









For those that had two I got both listed. geggeg and szeged I got *ALL* your PSU's. Some serious wattage.


----------



## VSG

Lol I currently have so many PSUs it's not even funny.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Proud owner of a stunning white Superflower 1200w. Can get pics later after work of needed.


Guess I forgot to get the pic that day. Guess we'll see if I can make it happen tomorrow.


----------



## shilka

Finally got around to adding the owners list, sory about that i have been busy so i forgot.
Anyone missing?


----------



## VSG

One of mine is a 1600T2 actually, but great job to both you and Arizonian


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> One of mine is a 1600T2 actually, but great job to both you and Arizonian


Your T2 is added just look further down the list.


----------



## Blaise170

If you go to a Google Spreadsheet you may find it easier to manage in the future.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Your T2 is added just look further down the list.


Ah then it's no longer 2x1600G2


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> If you go to a Google Spreadsheet you may find it easier to manage in the future.


No idea how it works
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah then it's no longer 2x1600G2


Fixed.


----------



## Kimir

Google Spreadsheet is quite easy to work with. You need a google email address and a few minute to set it up. See my post #10 in this thread.
One can even make it for you and send it over so you can put it on your own google drive.

I have proposed to make it for the previous OP, had the thing done last august, even with a form so owners could register themselves, see.


----------



## shilka

I dont have a google email or google drive.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont have a google email or google drive.


get it so you can be assimilated in the (data mining) collective. resistance is futile!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> get it so you can be assimilated in the (data mining) collective. resistance is futile!



NX-74205.


----------



## looniam

you're gonna need LtC Worf . . .


----------



## shilka

Review of the 2000 watts Leadex Titanium has been added to the OP
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/superflower-leadex-titanium-1600w-review/


----------



## Kimir

You took the wrong link (the 1600w one). Here is the correct one
http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/superflower-leadex-platinum-8-pack-edition-2000w-review/

both are good to be in OP anyway.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You took the wrong link (the 1600w one). Here is the correct one
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/superflower-leadex-platinum-8-pack-edition-2000w-review/
> 
> both are good to be in OP anyway.


Blah i had two windows open in firefox so i got the wrong one.


----------



## Vlada011

This is tragedy, EVGA Europe more than month Out Of Stock Black and Red Sleeve Cables.
I sign Notify Me, but still nobody know when cables will be available.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> This is tragedy, EVGA Europe more than month Out Of Stock Black and Red Sleeve Cables.
> I sign Notify Me, but still nobody know when cables will be available.


The CableMod cables are better anyway so get a CableMod set instead
CableMod E series


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The CableMod cables are better anyway so get a CableMod set instead
> CableMod E series


Oh those look nice and cheap! added to bookmark, thanks.


----------



## shilka

I have a set myself laying around which i have not gotten installed yet.
Have another set for sale.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Vlada011 View Post
> 
> This is tragedy, EVGA Europe more than month Out Of Stock Black and Red Sleeve Cables.
> I sign Notify Me, but still nobody know when cables will be available.
> 
> The CableMod cables are better anyway so get a CableMod set instead
> CableMod E series


They are not better, they are close but not better.
I'm not so crazy for paracord. And for me with EVGA PSU best is EVGA Cables.

And one more thing... I and other people wait to EVGA made that cables long time and push them and now it's not fair to buy some other cables. Immediately when my EVGA 1200 P2 arrive and when I know I will need that sleeve cables I tried to buy but black cables are not available. EVGA first design good sleeve with NEX1500, and for me that's something best, MDPC-X are good and have some unique most elegant shine but for me they are thick, they should be 3mm not 5mm.
And good fabric sleeve somehow look me more durable and resistant to re-installation and because thin diameter easier fit in channel between mobo tray and side panel.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You took the wrong link (the 1600w one). Here is the correct one
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/superflower-leadex-platinum-8-pack-edition-2000w-review/
> 
> both are good to be in OP anyway.


Speechless. Jaw dropping


----------



## looniam

ok, this is me going off in la la land:

though the SF-2000F14HP is 230V only it does have Full Ranage - 100V~240V with an active PFC.

but what would be wrong with using 110V @ 30A? (using a single pole breaker and 10AWG wire)

btw, the most it drew was ~2177 watts (2000/.9187) so even derating 80% would need 2721.25 watts or _24.75 amps_


----------



## Anfs

I just received my cable mod cables for my Evga P2 1000w and they are fantastic much better than the Evga ones and I didn't like having the pcie cables red. Why did Evga have to do that
Cheers


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ok, this is me going off in la la land:
> 
> though the SF-2000F14HP is 230V only it does have Full Ranage - 100V~240V with an active PFC.
> 
> but what would be wrong with using 110V @ 30A? (using a single pole breaker and 10AWG wire)
> 
> btw, the most it drew was ~2177 watts (2000/.9187) so even derating 80% would need 2721.25 watts or _24.75 amps_


They probably don't advertise it for 110V or might not even sell it in those countries because of what a hassle it is to run anything that draws so much power. Sure can be done but I would bet not everyone has high wattage outlets and wiring in their apartment etc. in countries with 110V only. The double amperage is scary to me, all because there was no upgrade to higher voltage, so you have to have thicker wiring, bigger breakers and so on and still lose on effectivity.
In EU you just plug in a 2kW oven into a socket and go, that's it. Most breakers are 10 or 16A even in old apartments ==> 2300W - 3600W. Of course you can't run too many things at once on one breaker if you want to max it out


----------



## Snips

Can I join? Recently got back into building rigs again









Here's my 650W Leadex Gold.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snips*
> 
> Can I join? Recently got back into building rigs again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my 650W Leadex Gold.


Added.


----------



## Am3oo

Here's a pic of my 750w leadex.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Am3oo*
> 
> Here's a pic of my 750w leadex.


Added.


----------



## 21cage12

Have got a supernova g2 750w replacement and the coil wine is still there, is this my motherboard cause.

Cheers


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *21cage12*
> 
> Have got a supernova g2 750w replacement and the coil wine is still there, is this my motherboard cause.
> 
> Cheers


Does the whine actually come from the PSU and not the video card?


----------



## Klocek001

The descriptions says that my Leadex Gold has the following protection systems:

OCP
OPP/OLP
OVP
SCP
UVP

Would sb be kind enough to explain them ? I'm kinda curious and I want to compare it to my former XFX 850W unit which killed two of my 290s and only had those:

OPP/OLP
OVP
SCP
UVP

(OCP is missing)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> The descriptions says that my Leadex Gold has the following protection systems:
> 
> OCP
> OPP/OLP
> OVP
> SCP
> UVP
> 
> Would sb be kind enough to explain them ? I'm kinda curious and I want to compare it to my formwer XFX 850W unit which killed two of my 290s.


OCP = overcurrent protection
OVP = overvoltage protection
SCP = short circuit protection
UCP = undercurrent protection
UVP = undervoltage protection
OTP = overtemperature protection
OLP = overload protection

Cant recall what OPP stands for?


----------



## Blaise170

OPP is overpower protection.


----------



## Klocek001

what's the difference between OCP and OVP and is the OCP really necessary in a high end rig ? My older 850W XFX didn't have it and I had two dead 290s on it. Seems like the lack of OCP could possibly be the reason (? maybe). It took each card about 3 weeks to die (or maybe it wasn't a gradual process like I think it was, just a coincidence it happened after 3 weeks on both). Now I'm running my third one on SF Leadex for more than 2 months without any problems.I know I'm asking difficult questions but I think there are people in this thread who like that. I wanna know more and more about PSUs since the failures I experienced taught me it's essential.


----------



## Silent Scone

OCP is very much necessary, yes!


----------



## Klocek001

Good I have it now! I also spent a lot on a quality power bar to make sure it never happens again. I'd also like to have a quality UPS, but I'm not getting one until I have enough $ to get me a really top notch one, like online pure sine UPS. I don't want any offline simulated sine ones since it still won't satisfy me.


----------



## 21cage12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Does the whine actually come from the PSU and not the video card?


100% from the PSU, I hear it even when the PC is shut down or before I press on the power bottom to turn on; I hear it when I stick my year near the PSU itself. Until you get closer to it you can barely hear it but if it can be prevented why not. Any help will be great.

Cheers


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> what's the difference between OCP and OVP and is the OCP really necessary in a high end rig ? My older 850W XFX didn't have it and I had two dead 290s on it. Seems like the lack of OCP could possibly be the reason (? maybe). It took each card about 3 weeks to die (or maybe it wasn't a gradual process like I think it was, just a coincidence it happened after 3 weeks on both). Now I'm running my third one on SF Leadex for more than 2 months without any problems.I know I'm asking difficult questions but I think there are people in this thread who like that. I wanna know more and more about PSUs since the failures I experienced taught me it's essential.


Almost all XFX power supplies are Seasonics, so in general the build quality is fantastic. Sounds more like you just got a dud.


----------



## shilka

Every brand and OEM has units that break or are broken from the start.
No one is above that not Seasonic or Super Flower or even Delta or Zippy for that matter.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Every brand and OEM has units that break or are broken from the start.
> No one is above that not Seasonic or Super Flower or even Delta or Zippy for that matter.


Yeah that's what I was saying.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

You Can add me for the

1000 G2 EVGA

and

1300 G2 EVGA

And the Proof


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








THe Cautious One


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> You Can add me for the
> 
> 1000 G2 EVGA
> 
> and
> 
> 1300 G2 EVGA
> 
> And the Proof
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THe Cautious One


You have been added.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You have been added.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

You can add me for 1000 P2


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> You can add me for 1000 P2


Added.
Thinking about changing the owners list so everyone is listed by wattage.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thinking about changing the owners list so everyone is listed by wattage.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *21cage12*
> 
> 100% from the PSU, I hear it even when the PC is shut down or before I press on the power bottom to turn on; I hear it when I stick my year near the PSU itself. Until you get closer to it you can barely hear it but if it can be prevented why not. Any help will be great.
> 
> Cheers


How loud is it and what part of the PSU is it coming from? Curious. I had 2 Seasonics whine like a dying pig. The second = replacement was even worse than the first one and made whine all the time, idle, even off. Seemed like a loose coil on the primary since SS doesn't glue a thing much.
SF on the other hand does glue and fix the coils quite well. And my EVGA is dead quiet. Maybe it does the usual PSU noise even when off but it is not heard unless like you said you put an ear to the PSU. This is nothing to be worried about almost all if not all PSUs do that to some extent. Of course if you can hear it from your chair while working then it's probably annoying and way too loud to be in the norm. But the PSU should still be fine, function wise, it's just not quiet








It can be an issue of PSU/mobo combination as well. Try different brand or at least model line.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> OCP is very much necessary, yes!


No you don't. These are protections that kick in and shutdown the PSU under the specified situations such as short circuit, overload or input voltage out of range, etc.
OCP = over current protection = about 70A for 850W = if there was some issue it's more likely to burn before the protection kicks in.
These have nothing to do with how well the components will run. What does affect components though is ripple and voltage stabilization, these two can harm.


----------



## shilka

Tweaked the owners list a bit, hope everyone like it this way.


----------



## VSG

Thanks, Shilka. Quick correction if you don't mind- I have a single 1600T2, not 3 1600G2 units


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks, Shilka. Quick correction if you don't mind- I have a single 1600T2, not 3 1600G2 units


Removed the 1300 watts G2 but what about the 750 watts G2 thats listed under your name?
Also you got a G2 1600 watts under yor sig so i am a but confused, could you list everything Leadex based unit you have so i can fix this.


----------



## VSG

I have a 750G2, 1300G2, and 1600T2. I have the 1600G2 also but not for long so might as well remove it. Sorry for the confusion!


----------



## Klocek001

I'll be the first one to be on the SF Leadex Gold 850W list. The pic is in my sig rig. I'm pasting it here

owner: Klocek001


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have a 750G2, 1300G2, and 1600T2. I have the 1600G2 also but not for long so might as well remove it. Sorry for the confusion!


Should be fixed now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klocek001*
> 
> I'll be the first one to be on the SF Leadex Gold 850W list. The pic is in my sig rig. I'm pasting it here
> 
> 
> owner: Klocek001


Any chance you could take a picture that is not as dark, pretty much the only thing you can see is the lights.


----------



## Klocek001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Should be fixed now.
> Any chance you could take a picture that is not as dark, pretty much the only thing you can see is the lights.


I'm afraid not.


----------



## 21cage12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> How loud is it and what part of the PSU is it coming from? Curious. I had 2 Seasonics whine like a dying pig. The second = replacement was even worse than the first one and made whine all the time, idle, even off. Seemed like a loose coil on the primary since SS doesn't glue a thing much.
> SF on the other hand does glue and fix the coils quite well. And my EVGA is dead quiet. Maybe it does the usual PSU noise even when off but it is not heard unless like you said you put an ear to the PSU. This is nothing to be worried about almost all if not all PSUs do that to some extent. Of course if you can hear it from your chair while working then it's probably annoying and way too loud to be in the norm. But the PSU should still be fine, function wise, it's just not quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can be an issue of PSU/mobo combination as well. Try different brand or at least model line.


Thanks. When the PC is shut down, it seems the noise is gone now; am talking about the new PSU. But when the PC is in use the coil wine is still there but it has dropped in noise a bit. I can't hear it from my chair and will have to be very close to it to hear it coil wine. The noise comes from around where the fan is or under the PSU. Will try the PSU in another machine and see what happens.


----------



## 21cage12

Well, after trying out the PSU on my Asus A8V-VM motherboard, *it did not coil wine at all* even when the PC was on or turned off, though that motherboard coil wine itself, even with its own PSU. After this I install it into my main rig and the coil wine is back. Maybe I should change the motherboard and be done with it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *21cage12*
> 
> Well, after trying out the PSU on my Asus A8V-VM motherboard, *it did not coil wine at all* even when the PC was on or turned off, though that motherboard coil wine itself, even with its own PSU. After this I install it into my main rig and the coil wine is back. Maybe I should change the motherboard and be done with it.


Stange that its the motherboard that make the PSU whine.


----------



## 21cage12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Stange that its the motherboard that make the PSU whine.


Yep, such glitch hasn't been very common.


----------



## shilka

Its been 10 years since i last had an MSI motherboard so i have no idea how they are today.
But i know my next motherboard is not going to be an Asus motherboard, thinking of trying out Gigabyte again which i have not had since 2008.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its been 10 years since i last had an MSI motherboard so i have no idea how they are today.
> But i know my next motherboard is not going to be an *Asus* motherboard, thinking of trying out Gigabyte again which i have not had since 2008.


What's the Deal about Asus? It's the only MOBO I've ever purchased and I honestly can't think of a reason not to buy another one If I planned on building another computer...

I even spray painted and acrylic painted my R5E and that thing booted up in a sec.









The Cautious ONe


----------



## 21cage12

Not sure if I will ever be convinced by Asrock and Gigabyte motherboards design. If I could get AI suite on an MSI motherboard; I had grab MSI since looks is important







Looking at mobo replacement but if I can only find Asus mobo that will match my black and white scheme will I only consider it as I have really miss AI suite, if not I will stay MSI Krait as the looks match my build (so, mobo replacement).


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What's the Deal about Asus? It's the only MOBO I've ever purchased and I honestly can't think of a reason not to buy another one If I planned on building another computer...
> 
> I even spray painted and acrylic painted my R5E and that thing booted up in a sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious ONe


All the horror stories about Asus RMA and all the stories about how crappy and annoying Asus Anti Surge software has turned me off, i am also a bit tired of Asus as i have had 3 Asus boards in a row, i also feel like trying out something else for a change.
All of the reasons above is why i am not going to buy another Asus motherboard.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> All the horror stories about Asus RMA and all the stories about how crappy and annoying Asus Anti Surge software has turned me off, i am also a bit tired of Asus as i have had 3 Asus boards in a row, i also feel like trying out something else for a change.
> All of the reasons above is why i am not going to buy another Asus motherboard.


Well Thank you for the Explanation.

TCO


----------



## shilka

I dont hate Asus or anything its not like that i just want to try out something else since its been years since i had anything but Asus.
Thinking about getting the Gigabyte GA-X99-Gaming 7 or the big brother the G1 Gaming



I also went for Gigabyte G1 Gaming cards went i bought my GTX 970 cards and not the Asus cards like i wanted, i would like to brand match my motherboard and video cards if i can.

Anyway off topic.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its been 10 years since i last had an MSI motherboard so i have no idea how they are today.
> But i know my next motherboard is not going to be an Asus motherboard, thinking of trying out Gigabyte again which i have not had since 2008.


Give ASRock a try / chance.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Give ASRock a try / chance.


Thats the one brand i am NEVER going to touch again as i have never had a board that was NOT broken.
After 5 or 6 broken motherboards i had enough, might even had been more then 5 or 6 i just know i have had a lot of them and all of them had problems.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thats the one brand i am NEVER going to touch again as i have never had a board that was NOT broken.
> After 5 or 6 broken motherboards i had enough, might even had been more then 5 or 6 i just know i have had a lot of them and all of them had problems.


Sorry for that. So far I had the ASRock Z97 Extreme6 and right now I have the Z97 OC Formula. Both very nice, the Formula most probably being the best Z97 board I ever had. I also own the rest shown on my sig-rig. Good luck with your decision.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Sorry for that. So far I had the ASRock Z97 Extreme6 and right now I have the Z97 OC Formula. Both very nice, the Formula most probably being the best Z97 board I ever had. I also own the rest shown on my sig-rig. Good luck with your decision.


I might just have been super unlucky, on the other hand 5-6 broken boards got to be a record or something.
I dont have any set plans for a new motherboard CPU and RAM and i would also like DDR4 RAM to be just a little bit cheaper.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its been 10 years since i last had an MSI motherboard so i have no idea how they are today.
> But i know my next motherboard is not going to be an Asus motherboard, thinking of trying out Gigabyte again which i have not had since 2008.


I love my GB board. Highly recommend them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What's the Deal about Asus? It's the only MOBO I've ever purchased and I honestly can't think of a reason not to buy another one If I planned on building another computer...
> 
> I even spray painted and acrylic painted my R5E and that thing booted up in a sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Asus has the worst RMA ever. Read about my motherboard story here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1483210/


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I love my GB board. Highly recommend them.
> Asus has the worst RMA ever. Read about my motherboard story here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1483210/












TCO


----------



## Blaise170

Hey Shilka, you might want to make a note that the EVGA SuperNOVA GS series is not SF Leadex based. It is Seasonic based, and looks almost identical which may confuse some people.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Hey Shilka, you might want to make a note that the EVGA SuperNOVA GS series is not SF Leadex based. It is Seasonic based, and looks almost identical which may confuse some people.


I am well aware and have been for a while.
EVGA SuperNova lineup explained
But thank you anyway.

Edit: link is in the top of the OP as well.


----------



## Blaise170

Ah, okay.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Anyone has the 1200W P2? Just got it today, tested it and the fan is very loud for my taste. I will use the ECO mode, but that works up to certain loads and than it will be noisy. I've had an issue with a defective Corsair HX which would run with the fan at 100% all the time, had to return it, so I'm thinking if I don't have the same issue with the 1200W P2. Could anyone try it with ECO mode off at idle and give me your impression on the fan noise?

(copy/pasted my post from the EVGA power supplies info thread as this is a more populated thread)


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Anyone has the 1200W P2? Just got it today, tested it and the fan is very loud for my taste. I will use the ECO mode, but that works up to certain loads and than it will be noisy. I've had an issue with a defective Corsair HX which would run with the fan at 100% all the time, had to return it, so I'm thinking if I don't have the same issue with the 1200W P2. Could anyone try it with ECO mode off at idle and give me your impression on the fan noise?
> 
> (copy/pasted my post from the EVGA power supplies info thread as this is a more populated thread)


I have the SF 1200 (BASICALLY P2)

and its dead silent non eco so...must be wonky fan if its that bad for you


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Stange that its the motherboard that make the PSU whine.


It can be an issue of specific combination of components. Makes it resonate or who knows, interferes with each other somehow and hit a frequency at which the coils will whine.
The CPU load is not static hey, there is a switching DC/DC convertor built in. And then another DC/DC on the CPU itself.

My MB sometimes whines under specific loads, but only or mainly on 46x OC setting and memory intensive operations. Might be gone now since I stepped cache down to 42x from 43x. Whine is not completely avoidable but can be minimized, especially under regular usage that doesn't push the limit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What's the Deal about Asus? It's the only MOBO I've ever purchased and I honestly can't think of a reason not to buy another one If I planned on building another computer...
> 
> I even spray painted and acrylic painted my R5E and that thing booted up in a sec.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cautious ONe


Overpriced for the features they have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> All the horror stories about Asus RMA and all the stories about how crappy and annoying Asus Anti Surge software has turned me off, i am also a bit tired of Asus as i have had 3 Asus boards in a row, i also feel like trying out something else for a change.
> All of the reasons above is why i am not going to buy another Asus motherboard.


Anti Surge, what boards have it? I've never seen it on Asus :/ Is it software crap or is it always ON? :/ Or can at least be disabled in UEFI?

I have Z97 Extreme4 ASRock, most features for lowest price.
Don't care about looks or something, blue is fine with me.
I think that for any series/board one has to do their research. Sometimes a specific brand has bad design or batch for something, sometimes it's a different brand.
Brands also like to get lazy and rest on their pedestals, while smaller or newer brands actually make better stuff for less.

ASRock doesn't seem very popular. Personally I would probably not want MSI MB. Asus is overpriced. GB is ok.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Anyone has the 1200W P2? Just got it today, tested it and the fan is very loud for my taste. I will use the ECO mode, but that works up to certain loads and than it will be noisy. I've had an issue with a defective Corsair HX which would run with the fan at 100% all the time, had to return it, so I'm thinking if I don't have the same issue with the 1200W P2. Could anyone try it with ECO mode off at idle and give me your impression on the fan noise?
> 
> (copy/pasted my post from the EVGA power supplies info thread as this is a more populated thread)


What load are you pushing that it seems loud?
The fans on EVGA tend to be a little quieter than on SF due to lower max rpm. Of course if you push high power then it will spin up.
What is loud to you? For me above 1000rpm is getting loud since idle I run 500rpm and PSU fan off. From reviews P2 1200W doesn't as usual with Leadex turn the fan on until about 50-60% load, that's 600W, that's a lot of passive PSU power.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_P2_1200/5.html
Max seems 2200rpm which is on the high end for Leadex but expected with the 1000W+ units. No idea what the lower end spectrum looks like, couldn't find a regular air temp. rpm list or graph.


----------



## shilka

Asus anti surge software is the bigest turd ever put on a motherboard and its flatout broken!
There are multiple threads here on OCN about users that have replaced or RMA´ed their PSU becasue the software told them it had shut the system off to protect it.

What really happen is the software had a major malfunction so the users replaced their PSU for no reason at all.
All you have to do is turn the damm thing off.

Dont want an Asus board when they install broken crap like that.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> What load are you pushing that it seems loud?
> The fans on EVGA tend to be a little quieter than on SF due to lower max rpm. Of course if you push high power then it will spin up.
> What is loud to you? For me above 1000rpm is getting loud since idle I run 500rpm and PSU fan off. From reviews P2 1200W doesn't as usual with Leadex turn the fan on until about 50-60% load, that's 600W, that's a lot of passive PSU power.
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_P2_1200/5.html
> Max seems 2200rpm which is on the high end for Leadex but expected with the 1000W+ units. No idea what the lower end spectrum looks like, couldn't find a regular air temp. rpm list or graph.


I tested two motherboards yesterday as well, so mobo+cpu+2 RAM modules. I don't think that even qualifies as "load"...








Afetr that I only used that 24 pin jumper provided in the box and it was just as loud at zero load.


----------



## Feyris

evga uses lower qual fan than odm version. But that seems wrong


----------



## magbarn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Anyone has the 1200W P2? Just got it today, tested it and the fan is very loud for my taste. I will use the ECO mode, but that works up to certain loads and than it will be noisy. I've had an issue with a defective Corsair HX which would run with the fan at 100% all the time, had to return it, so I'm thinking if I don't have the same issue with the 1200W P2. Could anyone try it with ECO mode off at idle and give me your impression on the fan noise?
> 
> (copy/pasted my post from the EVGA power supplies info thread as this is a more populated thread)


Mine's loud too if I turn Eco mode off. With Eco mode on when pulling around 700 watts or so the fan starts to spin up but is still quiet. The eco mode off switch starts the fan at too high of rpm with an aggressive ramp up to be really useful.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

OK! So the "non-ECO" fan profile is more aggressive than the ECO fan profile. Than I should expect that with ECO mode on when the higher temperature and/or load turns the fan on, it's not going to start as aggressively as it starts with ECO mode off. If that's the case, I'll go right ahead and enjoy my afternoon coffee and stop thinking about it... After all, I am planning to use it with the ECO mode on and it does come with a 10 year warranty.


----------



## LostParticle

Hello

Add me, please










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Also, how are you guys cleaning your PSU(s)?
Any suggestions on cleaning with a vacuum cleaner? (mine can blow air, too).

Thank you.


----------



## magbarn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Add me, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how are you guys cleaning your PSU(s)?
> Any suggestions on cleaning with a vacuum cleaner? (mine can blow air, too).
> 
> Thank you.


I have a small air compressor in the garage that I set to 40 PSI and blast away. Much better than the cans of compressed gas that barely put out 10 PSI or so. Your vacuum should do ok, but high pressure air is best.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Add me, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how are you guys cleaning your PSU(s)?
> Any suggestions on cleaning with a vacuum cleaner? (mine can blow air, too).
> 
> Thank you.


Added.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Add me, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, how are you guys cleaning your PSU(s)?
> Any suggestions on cleaning with a vacuum cleaner? (mine can blow air, too).
> 
> Thank you.


There's the data vac: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U899HQ?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

It's basically a small handheld air compressor for cleaning electronics. Supposedly less chance of e.s.d than a vacuum. A little pricey but cans of air add up if you have multiple devices to clean. My kids consoles get very dusty so with 3 ps3s, 2 ps4s, and the wii it's worth it just for those. It's good for blowing out those a/v receivers and tv vents every once in a while too.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> There's the data vac: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U899HQ?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links
> 
> It's basically a small handheld air compressor for cleaning electronics. Supposedly less chance of e.s.d than a vacuum. A little pricey but cans of air add up if you have multiple devices to clean. My kids consoles get very dusty so with 3 ps3s, 2 ps4s, and the wii it's worth it just for those. It's good for blowing out those a/v receivers and tv vents every once in a while too.


Just got my parts to rig yesterday. Picked up a Datavac, not to get too off-topic, it's awesome. When people say it's the last can of air they ever purchased they're not kidding. It's as loud as a vacuum cleaner and has an amazing amount of pressure being blown. I easily purchased a dozen datavacs in my lifetime buying cans. I should have just layed down the 60USD a long time ago.

Update: well it's hard to believe that the first item I purchased for my new computer was this power supply so I thought it would be the appropriate place to show the final results. I'm waiting on AMD's next flagship graphics card which will be completing my rig for the next foreseeable year. After my rebate arrived I paid $139 for this power supply. First preliminary thoughts is Great but I have not stress this power supply yet to give my opinion on if I hear any fan noise.



Unfortunately I still have a bug where I cannot boot the first time and it requires a second power up. Checking ram next.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Just got my parts to rig yesterday. Picked up a Datavac, not to get too off-topic, it's awesome. When people say it's the last can of air they ever purchased they're not kidding. It's as loud as a vacuum cleaner and has an amazing amount of pressure being blown. I easily purchased a dozen datavacs in my lifetime buying cans. I should have just layed down the 60USD a long time ago.
> 
> Update: well it's hard to believe that the first item I purchased for my new computer was this power supply so I thought it would be the appropriate place to show the final results. I'm waiting on AMD's next flagship graphics card which will be completing my rig for the next foreseeable year. After my rebate arrived I paid $139 for this power supply. First preliminary thoughts is Great but I have not stress this power supply yet to give my opinion on if I hear any fan noise.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I still have a bug where I cannot boot the first time and it requires a second power up. Checking ram next.


Mine started doing that recently too... Not sure why it does that.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> OK! So the "non-ECO" fan profile is more aggressive than the ECO fan profile. Than I should expect that with ECO mode on when the higher temperature and/or load turns the fan on, it's not going to start as aggressively as it starts with ECO mode off. If that's the case, I'll go right ahead and enjoy my afternoon coffee and stop thinking about it... After all, I am planning to use it with the ECO mode on and it does come with a 10 year warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*: While I was enjoying the coffee, decided to upload a couple of videos so you see/hear what I mean.


Sounds like a normal fan at 1000-1200rpm. Nothing abnormal. Yeah it can be that the fan profiles are not tuned for silence with the more powerful PSUs as they are with below 1000W. That default to around 800rpm or so instead.
ECO off, well of course it's gonna be louder than no fan









It's still better than when PSUs blast at 2k+ rpm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Also, how are you guys cleaning your PSU(s)?
> Any suggestions on cleaning with a vacuum cleaner? (mine can blow air, too).
> 
> Thank you.


Nothing. The fan is off all the time so it sucks in no dust and most decent cases have filters too.
Air cans, never used any. Blowers, never used any. Vacuum, sure just suck the biggest crap out from where you can.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Sounds like a normal fan at 1000-1200rpm. Nothing abnormal. Yeah it can be that the fan profiles are not tuned for silence with the more powerful PSUs as they are with below 1000W. That default to around 800rpm or so instead.
> ECO off, well of course it's gonna be louder than no fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's still better than when PSUs blast at 2k+ rpm.
> Nothing. The fan is off all the time so it sucks in no dust and most decent cases have filters too.
> Air cans, never used any. Blowers, never used any. Vacuum, sure just suck the biggest crap out from where you can.


Cases have filters but they aren't perfect, even with a filter directly under my old Corsair CX and Rosewill LIGHTNING I still had to blow out the dust from time to time. Nothing wrong with giving it some air either way.


----------



## cjc75

Add me in.

Here's a pic of my lovely 750 G2 mounted in my brand new CM Storm Trooper, powering my new i5-4690K!


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Cases have filters but they aren't perfect, even with a filter directly under my old Corsair CX and Rosewill LIGHTNING I still had to blow out the dust from time to time. Nothing wrong with giving it some air either way.


My bottom filter isn't that good either, bigger holes than the filter on front of FD R4. Lets in more dust. Other than that filters let in the fine dust that sticks especially to fans and nothing but wiping will remove it. Maybe high pressure air would help, not sure, but don't spin the fan with it, so it's a tedious cleaning anyway. Brush or cloth works. But nothing one can do much about fan stuck in PSU that one can't get to from both sides.


----------



## el-jorge

I can get the 750W G2 and the Leadex Gold 750W at the same price, which would you choose?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el-jorge*
> 
> I can get the 750W G2 and the Leadex Gold 750W at the same price, which would you choose?


The Leadex as it has a better fan.


----------



## Rahldrac

Bah, biggest problem with going full costum loop is that my 1000 g2 is now the loudest thing in the build! All the other fans are silent, except for the G2. Regret not getting the P2.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Bah, biggest problem with going full costum loop is that my 1000 g2 is now the loudest thing in the build! All the other fans are silent, except for the G2. Regret not getting the P2.


There is a 1000 watts T2 on the way so if you are looking for an excuse that might be it.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Bah, biggest problem with going full costum loop is that my 1000 g2 is now the loudest thing in the build! All the other fans are silent, except for the G2. Regret not getting the P2.


Nothing a fan swap or fan controller won't solve







(warranty void, but hey it's a custom build anyway)


----------



## Rahldrac

Anybody have any experience changing the fan on that model? I have heard that it might problematic due to start up voltage and such? Bah, Wished that it weren't that hard to sell things here in EU. The PSU is only a month old (got a new one due to RMA).


----------



## Roaches

Had a G2 1300W for several months now, didn't bother posting since the previous thread owner wasn't active. Glad to see someone else carrying it on.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Had a G2 1300W for several months now, didn't bother posting since the previous thread owner wasn't active. Glad to see someone else carrying it on.


I do try and be more active in this thread and keep it up to date more then Philistine did.

You have been added to the owners list, unless you do not want to?


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I do try and be more active in this thread and keep it up to date more then Philistine did.
> 
> You have been added to the owners list, unless you do not want to?


Thank, I'm fine being added, Its gonna be in the rig for a good while until get a G2 1600 to run 2 290X2 Devil 13 Housefire edition, otherwise I'd keep the 1300W unit if it can run a quadfire 290X which I'm having doubts on.

Keep up the good work as always.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Thank, I'm fine being added, Its gonna be in the rig for a good while until get a G2 1600 to run 2 290X2 Devil 13 Housefire edition, otherwise I'd keep the 1300W unit if it can run a quadfire 290X which I'm having doubts on.
> 
> Keep up the good work as always.


1300 will without OC testing two stock 295x2 i get right at edge of 1200w


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> 1300 will without OC testing two stock 295x2 i get right at edge of 1200w


May make sense for a z97 setup but I have to take into account my X79 may have higher powerdraw and is currently OC'd, Also the G2 1300 only has 6 PCI-E 8 pins outlets on the modular board, where as 8 is needed to run 2 Devil 13s

Though I don't plan to OC the D13s once I get them to avoid any costly and harmful anomalies. Thanks for the info though. I hope the G2 1300 can handle 2 Devils at stock. I might have to revert to CPU stock clocks as well if necessary.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> May make sense for a z97 setup but I have to take into account my X79 may have higher powerdraw and is currently OC'd, Also the G2 1300 only has 6 PCI-E 8 pins outlets on the modular board, where as 8 is needed to run 2 Devil 13s
> 
> Though I don't plan to OC the D13s once I get them to avoid any costly and harmful anomalies. Thanks for the info though. I hope the G2 1300 can handle 2 Devils at stock. I might have to revert to CPU stock clocks as well if necessary.


Ick true. I run 4790k stock + the loop
Even if its near limit at 1300w though should be fine since leadex are not toys and can output that fine near and at max.


----------



## LandonAaron

Well I purchased a used 1000W G2 off Ebay a couple months ago, and recently I installed a couple fan controllers and a toggle switch for some of my radiator fans to quite the system down, and I noticed my PSU is making a bunch of electrical sounds. It just kind of buzzes and crackles. Not an even steady sound more like the constant random flickering of a fire, but electrical sounds. Its really annoying, and ruining my quiet fan experience. If I take a can of duster and blow it into the back of the PSU it will stop for a few seconds but then it comes back. I can't RMA as its used, does anyone know what could be causing this or have any suggestions on how to remedy.


----------



## magbarn

Sounds like 'coil whine' to me. I would run a stress program like Prime95 or furmark and see if the noise changes with load.
Most likely the reason the previous owner dumped on ebay instead of having EVGA RMA it due to laziness. You're probably out of luck as those components aren't plug and play.


----------



## tabascosauz

On the first day of use, my G2 750 whined like crazy when the rig was not on. When the power switch was on and the rig plugged in but not turned on, the G2 750 sounded like an angry beehive. I stopped paying attention to it and after 3 months it doesn't seem to be an issue anymore.

Hefty SOB this one, but I wouldn't trade it for any other. I told myself I was going to clean up the octopus after swapping the R2s for NF-F12s but was too lazy. Now with the SG05 build coming up this thing is never going to get cleaned up.







Not until I shot with 2000 ISO did I see the dust build-up on the drive cage.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> On the first day of use, my G2 750 whined like crazy when the rig was not on. When the power switch was on and the rig plugged in but not turned on, the G2 750 sounded like an angry beehive. I stopped paying attention to it and after 3 months it doesn't seem to be an issue anymore.
> 
> Hefty SOB this one, but I wouldn't trade it for any other. I told myself I was going to clean up the octopus after swapping the R2s for NF-F12s but was too lazy. Now with the SG05 build coming up this thing is never going to get cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not until I shot with 2000 ISO did I see the dust build-up on the drive cage.


Added


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I purchased a used 1000W G2 off Ebay a couple months ago, and recently I installed a couple fan controllers and a toggle switch for some of my radiator fans to quite the system down, and I noticed my PSU is making a bunch of electrical sounds. It just kind of buzzes and crackles. Not an even steady sound more like the constant random flickering of a fire, but electrical sounds. Its really annoying, and ruining my quiet fan experience. If I take a can of duster and blow it into the back of the PSU it will stop for a few seconds but then it comes back. I can't RMA as its used, does anyone know what could be causing this or have any suggestions on how to remedy.


No idea what the sound description refers to. Is it coil whine? Or is it the usual PSU noise that usually is quiet but some may have it louder?
Or is it FAN noise?
Audio sample is better than words









No warranty? Who would buy a used PSU without warranty that is supposed to be 10y?

All you can do is take it apart, investigate, fix all coils, test fan, etc. that's about it. Obviously safety first (110/230V), if you don't know what to do then don't start doing it.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well I purchased a used 1000W G2 off Ebay a couple months ago, and recently I installed a couple fan controllers and a toggle switch for some of my radiator fans to quite the system down, and I noticed my PSU is making a bunch of electrical sounds. It just kind of buzzes and crackles. Not an even steady sound more like the constant random flickering of a fire, but electrical sounds. Its really annoying, and ruining my quiet fan experience. If I take a can of duster and blow it into the back of the PSU it will stop for a few seconds but then it comes back. I can't RMA as its used, does anyone know what could be causing this or have any suggestions on how to remedy.


From what I know, the G2 1000 is a 10 year -XR unit. So is my G2 750, as long as you register on the website. -XR PSUs qualify for a transferable warranty for 3 years, but according to EVGA this applies only to PRODUCTS SHIPPED FROM EVGA. Now, I don't know if this refers to the action of EVGA shipping the PSU to the retailer/etailer or you actually purchasing the item from evga.com, so maybe you could ask EVGA to clarify. Their customer service isn't shabby, and you can post on the forum.

This is why I don't consider buying anything second-hand aside from CPUs (which are generally safe unless it's an AMD CPU and the owner has painstakingly taken time to bend all the pins, or insta-killed a Haswell with 1.8V voltage). There's only so much that the descriptions/pictures can tell you and knowing that the owner still needs to make as much money as possible, there could very well be important things that he/she is not telling you.


----------



## Killa Cam

So I'm about to pull the trigger on one of the 1600w psu. Is worth the extra $100 for a titanium rated psu over gold?

Also, I already own a 750 g2...


----------



## shilka

What do you need the 1600 watts for?


----------



## Killa Cam

Upcoming trifire 390x w/my current system, 32 fans, 2 water pumps, 2 ssd, 2 hdds... The usual over top stuff.

If only corsair made a higher wattage psu, I'd get one. Corsair is the best... Right, shilka?


----------



## joeh4384

I think my only complaint about the g2 models is their size. My G2 1300 barely blocks the middle bottom fan slot on my R5 and I could not fit a 850 watt G2 in my Silverstone GD05 because it would have blocked my intake fan.


----------



## JackCY

That's more of an issue of case design than PSU. Those higher wattage PSU's are cramped. Sure there are some lower wattage ones that use a casing that's something like 2cm longer than otherwise needed.
Silverstone GD05 O.O is a what I would call a desktop case, no idea how that tiny cramped thing could dissipate 850W without sounding like an aeroplane. It is supposed to support 180mm PSUs which is the length of 850 G2, guess not then.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Corsair is the best... Right, shilka?


Can't tell if that's sarcasm. If it is indeed sarcasm...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH cue shilka exploding for the umpteenth time about Corsair PSUs


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> Can't tell if that's sarcasm. If it is indeed sarcasm...
> 
> HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH cue shilka exploding for the umpteenth time about Corsair PSUs


I could not care less about Corsair, i think they are becoming more and more irrelevant.
And no i dont hate them i just dont care, they are just like Apple and Razer and EA Games they sell more because of the name they have and all the clueless masses that buy from them then do because of quality.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I could not care less about Corsair, i think they are becoming more and more irrelevant.
> And no i dont hate them i just dont care, they are just like Apple and Razer and EA Games they sell more because of the name they have and all the clueless masses that buy from them then do because of quality.


but didn't you own a corsair psu too? Y u so ankry wif corsair shilka San?


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I could not care less about Corsair, i think they are becoming more and more irrelevant.
> And no i dont hate them i just dont care, they are just like Apple and Razer and EA Games they sell more because of the name they have and all the clueless masses that buy from them then do because of quality.


It looks like Shilka-senpai has given up as he sees the futility of trying to argue against all the Corsair fanboys that exist in this world.









Honestly, the only Corsair PSUs that deserve any praise are the Seasonic (AX760/860) and the Flextronics ones (AX760/860/1200/1500i).


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> It looks like Shilka-senpai has given up as he sees the futility of trying to argue against all the Corsair fanboys that exist in this world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, the only Corsair PSUs that deserve any praise are the Seasonic (AX760/860) and the Flextronics ones (AX760/860/1200/1500i).


There is no cure for plain old mental laziness or worse sheer stupidity.
But there is one for ignorance.

With all the info threads and everything i have done there is not much more i can do or say that would convince anyone not already convinced.
I cant waste time on every idiot in the universe.


----------



## Killa Cam

Oooh so salty... is that why u haven't added me to da club? I use my 750 g2 as a foot rest for my corsair ax860. there is a reason why corsair is thee number one power supply seller. first to have titanium psu in the western market, first to have 10 out of 10 from jonnyguru. Corsair da best!


----------



## Kimir

Corsair power supply are like corsair dominator platinum. They are good but massively overpriced.
It will stay like that as long as people are willing to spend the premium cost blindly.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Corsair power supply are like corsair dominator platinum. They are good but massively overpriced.
> It will stay like that as long as people are willing to spend the premium cost blindly.


Only true for the AX(I) series. Corsair has some trash products for ridiculous prices.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Oooh so salty... is that why u haven't added me to da club? I use my 750 g2 as a foot rest for my corsair ax860. there is a reason why corsair is thee number one power supply seller. first to have titanium psu in the western market, first to have 10 out of 10 from jonnyguru. Corsair da best!


Alright...I'm really not sure about the sarcasm now.

I'm pretty sure oklahomawolf gave the ax1500i some free credit for being the first decent 1500W PSU. One of the T2 units also received a perfect ten, can't remember which one.


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> I'm pretty sure oklahomawolf gave the ax1500i some free credit for being the first decent 1500W PSU.


I'm pretty sure I didn't. They took their time, did it right, and had no competition for a _long_ time. That said, it would score differently today due to the fact that I am now scoring against those hard to manage ribbon style ATX cables. So, maybe a half point off the functionality score and that's it.
Quote:


> One of the T2 units also received a perfect ten, can't remember which one.


It was the P2 1200W.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> Only true for the AX(I) series. Corsair has some trash products for ridiculous prices.
> Alright...I'm really not sure about the sarcasm now.
> 
> I'm pretty sure oklahomawolf gave the ax1500i some free credit for being the first decent 1500W PSU. One of the T2 units also received a perfect ten, can't remember which one.


Hehe dont mind me. Me and shilka go way back to where his disdain for corsair took off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I didn't. They took their time, did it right, and had no competition for a _long_ time. That said, it would score differently today due to the fact that I am now scoring against those hard to manage ribbon style ATX cables. So, maybe a half point off the functionality score and that's it.
> It was the P2 1200W.


Oklahomie! Need advice: I'm looking into getting one of the evga 1600w psu. Is it worth spending the extra $100 for a titanium rated vs gold?


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Oklahomie! Need advice: I'm looking into getting one of the evga 1600w psu. Is it worth spending the extra $100 for a titanium rated vs gold?


Not really, IMO.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> Not really, IMO.


You have convinced me. Thanks


----------



## iCrap

Do you G2 1300w owners have really loud fan noise? I just returned mine to amazon since the noise is so bad. my friend has the 1000w G2 and his is also noisy but not as bad.... I don't know if i should get a replacement one or just get the Corsair RM1000 for a similar price (with hybrid off fan mode)


----------



## Roaches

Honestly can't hear mine on idle though. It does hum under intense load.


----------



## iCrap

Mine just idling on the desktop was louder than everything... fans... hdds. it was way too loud.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I didn't. They took their time, did it right, and had no competition for a _long_ time. That said, it would score differently today due to the fact that I am now scoring against those hard to manage ribbon style ATX cables. So, maybe a half point off the functionality score and that's it.
> It was the P2 1200W.


It's the real guy! Damn!

Ye my memory has patchy lately.


----------



## Rahldrac

My 1000 G2 is really loud under idle too. All my other fans are on 5v (Watercooled), so I might be just in comparison.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> or just get the Corsair RM1000 for a similar price (with hybrid off fan mode)


The 1000 watts RM is trash compared to a G2 so no dont.
Ripple suppression is crap.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The 1000 watts RM is trash compared to a G2 so no dont.
> Ripple suppression is crap.


Well so what do you suggest for a quiet PSU? The G2 might as well be trash considering how damn loud it is.


----------



## Rahldrac

I would go for one of the P models of evga. They have hybride mode.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Well so what do you suggest for a quiet PSU? The G2 might as well be trash considering how damn loud it is.


The HXi series are only a tiny bit louder and those dont suck as much as the RM series does.
Or you could just get a Be Quiet Dark Power Pro P10.


----------



## Heimsgard

Thought I'd finally post a photo.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heimsgard*
> 
> Thought I'd finally post a photo.


Picture is upside down or at least the PSU is.


----------



## Heimsgard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Picture is upside down or at least the PSU is.


It's just how the sticker is. In a normal case you would be seeing the left side of the powersupply but in the node 804 it's the right side. Well with the fan facing down.


----------



## BuzzinDSM

I piecing together a new PC and my EVGA 1000w G2 just arrived today.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuzzinDSM*
> 
> I piecing together a new PC and my EVGA 1000w G2 just arrived today.


Congrats - I also spy a new Shine 4 in your avatar.









I see your fairly new, welcome to OCN









*List your rig* once you get it set up.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Picture is upside down or at least the PSU is.


It's horizontally and vertically flipped, rotated counterclockwise by 270 degrees and shot as reflection in a mirror. All only to boggle your mind


----------



## Charlio99

Hi, today i've connected my new gtx 970 to the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2 and the PSU started to make the coil whine noise.
My gtx 970 is watercooled, so I think it can't have coil whine, or yes? What do you think?

Sorry for my English, I'm Spanish


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlio99*
> 
> Hi, today i've connected my new gtx 970 to the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2 and the PSU started to make the coil whine noise.
> My gtx 970 is watercooled, so I think it can't have coil whine, or yes? What do you think?
> 
> Sorry for my English, I'm Spanish


It does not matter if the card is water cooled or not
Does the noise come from the card or the PSU?.


----------



## Charlio99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> It does not matter if the card is water cooled or not
> Does the noise come from the card or the PSU?.


I think it comes from psu, because when I enter in a game a lot of noise is coming from the cpu, but is a diferent noise that there was before on the Windows screen.

EDIT: The noise comes from the GPU, but a weaker coil whine comes from the PSU.


----------



## magicase

I'm a proud owner of a P2 1200W


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> I'm a proud owner of a P2 1200W


If you want to be added to the owners list please show a picture of your system with the P2 in it.


----------



## Feyris

Came today, but have to wait two weeks to get it in hand (mom has it TT)


----------



## nyxagamemnon

I know the ax1500i has a bunch of silicone on the coils to prevent buzzing noise while under high to max load. I am curious how does the 1600t2 do? Is their a buzzing noise or is it noise free along with the 1600 p2?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlio99*
> 
> I think it comes from psu, because when I enter in a game a lot of noise is coming from the cpu, but is a diferent noise that there was before on the Windows screen.
> 
> EDIT: The noise comes from the GPU, but a weaker coil whine comes from the PSU.


You have to listen closely and at best have the rig out laid out of the case, far apart. That makes it easy to determine where noises are coming from and also to notice all the little noise that you won't hear while it's hidden in a case.
SF puts glue/silicone/I don't know what's it made from but I did use it once a long time ago at work to secure coils in their housing against moving, as well they put a piece of board in the coils, not all though, only the most important primary ones.

GPUs usually whine on 3D load, like madVR, synthetic benches, very high fps, some do during gaming which probably is quite miserable but not avoidable.
Mobo/CPU tends to whine/be audible on high memory transfer especially with CPU OC.
PSU, can be at any time, off, idle, light load, heavy load, heard it all.

Like this, jonny's pic 1600 T2:


Seasonic puts more or less the same amount of effort to it with the higher tier and wattage PSUs. Something like the entry level G line, not so much really.
Any brand/maker can have PSUs with coil whine, it's not avoidable.
Buy what you want, return it if it whines and it bothers you, no other way around this issue. It can be a combination of components or just bad luck for a unit.


----------



## VSG

If anyone is interested in knowing how the Globe RL4Z B1402512EH fan in the Supernova G2/P2/T2 lineup is:





































That latter graph was with the fan all by itself in a 19 dBA chamber, and you will never hit 100% fan speed with something like the 1600T2 for example, where even at 55+ ºC it only went to about 27-28% fan speed only with Eco mode on.


----------



## Roaches

Just finished installing the 1600 G2. The 1300 G2 wasn't up to snuff against 4 Hawaii cores in 3D Mark (system shutting down in the middle of Firestrike). Will be keeping the 1300 as backup


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Just finished installing the 1600 G2. The 1300 G2 wasn't up to snuff against 4 Hawaii cores in 3D Mark (system shutting down in the middle of Firestrike). Will be keeping the 1300 as backup


How loud is it on full load?


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> How loud is it on full load?


Quite as loud as its predecessor the 7990 Devil 13, usually game on headset so noise isn't much of a bother to me.

Just did a quick run on 3D Mark FS. http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4345311
1600 G2 made it through where as the 1300 G2 would shut down during the Combined Test.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Quite as loud as its predecessor the 7990 Devil 13, usually game on headset so noise isn't much of a bother to me.
> 
> Just did a quick run on 3D Mark FS. http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4345311
> 1600 G2 made it through where as the 1300 G2 would shut down during the Combined Test.


I'm talking about the g2 1600w psu.


----------



## Feyris

I feel bad for you G/P2 users with noise worry since evga downgraded fans from OEMs lol


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> I feel bad for you G/P2 users with noise worry since evga downgraded fans from OEMs lol


Is it such a huge difference?

EVGA 1600 T2:
Ball bearing
Globe Fan RL4Z B1402512EH DC12V 0.60A TP

SF 1300W:
Fluid dynamic bearing
Globe Fan RL4Z S1402512EH DC12V 0.60A TP

I see what you mean...
EVGA 1300 G2:
Ball bearing
ONG HUA HA1425H12B-Z 12V 0.50A

Still it's a ball bearing and no different kind of "OEM noname" brand name than globe fan. All other G2/P2 that have a ball bearing I don't see EVGA changing them, but it fseems to me that with SF 1300W they actually went out of their way to change the fluid dynamic bearing fan SF put there and replaced it with a ball bearing fan.
I wouldn't see it as downgrade or EVGA trying to save cost or something.


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If anyone is interested in knowing how the Globe RL4Z B1402512EH fan in the Supernova G2/P2/T2 lineup is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That latter graph was with the fan all by itself in a 19 dBA chamber, and you will never hit 100% fan speed with something like the 1600T2 for example, where even at 55+ ºC it only went to about 27-28% fan speed only with Eco mode on.


I never hear mine. If you don't know a particular part exists that's normally a good sign it's working properly


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlio99*
> 
> Hi, today i've connected my new gtx 970 to the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2 and the PSU started to make the coil whine noise.
> My gtx 970 is watercooled, so I think it can't have coil whine, or yes? What do you think?
> 
> Sorry for my English, I'm Spanish


I got fed up with mine whining and blew a copious amount of duster in tit through the back vent and it stopped. I did it while computer was running cause I'm crazy like that and wanted to hear if it stoped or not. First few times I tried it would stop for a few seconds then come back but I eventually got it to stop for good. Just be careful if you try this. Blow too much and get it too cold you will get condensation on PSU and poof fire ball. Hold the can sideways and it sprays out liquid poof fireball. Just be careful.


----------



## gdubc

You can damage fans/bearings pretty easy that way, just a heads up. When blowing out electronics it's best to stick something in there to keep the fan from spinning.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> I'm talking about the g2 1600w psu.


Can't hear it, its silent on idle, no humming noise on load unlike my 1300 G2. Then again, system ambient noise overwhelms the PSU sound signature makes it difficult to tell if its loud or not.


----------



## LandonAaron

I have a
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You can damage fans/bearings pretty easy that way, just a heads up. When blowing out electronics it's best to stick something in there to keep the fan from spinning.


Yeah I am not really recommending that he do it while his computer is on, just letting him know that it might be fixable with something as simple as a little dusting. Though really my issue wasn't actually coil whine. As coil whine usually just occurs under load, where my issue was a constant noise even when idle. If his issue is specifically coil whine under load, it probably won't help in that scenario.


----------



## LandonAaron

I have a 1000W G2, and am about to add a second R9 290 to my system for crossfire. I'm not sure if I have enough power or not as using a PSU calculator it shows that I need a 837w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 0%, and 1037w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 20%, and the calculator does not take GPU overclock into account.

So what happens if you go over your PSU's capacity? Will it just shut off, or will it bug out and fry my components?


----------



## VSG

OCP/OVP triggers and the PSU shuts off- as long as it is a decent unit anyway. Anything in this club should be fine.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a 1000W G2, and am about to add a second R9 290 to my system for crossfire. I'm not sure if I have enough power or not as using a PSU calculator it shows that I need a 837w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 0%, and 1037w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 20%, and the calculator does not take GPU overclock into account.
> 
> So what happens if you go over your PSU's capacity? Will it just shut off, or will it bug out and fry my components?


The correct way to use the extreme outervision PSU calculator


----------



## incog

Hi, time to include me in this club.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> Hi, time to include me in this club.


Sory to be added you need a picture with your unit or the box or both as proof before you will be added to the list.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Sory to be added you need a picture with your unit or the box or both as proof before you will be added to the list.


That's funny, because I did that earlier and yet I've not made it to the cluh. It's cool, corsair club wouldn't be so stuck up. That's why corsair da best...


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> That's funny, because I did that earlier and yet I've not made it to the cluh. It's cool, corsair club wouldn't be so stuck up. That's why corsair da best...


Just poking the beast here eh?


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a 1000W G2, and am about to add a second R9 290 to my system for crossfire. I'm not sure if I have enough power or not as using a PSU calculator it shows that I need a 837w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 0%, and 1037w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 20%, and the calculator does not take GPU overclock into account.
> 
> So what happens if you go over your PSU's capacity? Will it just shut off, or will it bug out and fry my components?


That depends. Any PSU worth its salt should shut off when it gets to the breaking point. However, I know of some Seasonic PSUs that are severely overbuilt and are able to take a comfortable 100W overdraw without a noticeable worsening of voltage regulation and ripple.

But that's with 550-750W units. I wouldn't be testing the limits with a 290 crossfire.

Then again, AMD GPUs are chill until you hit up Furmark. When you do that, TDP flies straight out the window and heads for outer space.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> Just poking the beast here eh?


Just making intriguing observation.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> That's funny, because I did that earlier and yet I've not made it to the cluh. It's cool, corsair club wouldn't be so stuck up. That's why corsair da best...


You are just so annoying that i am not in a rush to get you added.


----------



## Spork13




----------



## Snips

Huh, I just realised that there are only four of us with Leadex units. Is it really that hard to find Super Flowers over in Europe and America?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snips*
> 
> Huh, I just realised that there are only four of us with Leadex units. Is it really that hard to find Super Flowers over in Europe and America?


You won't typically find them in America since we don't always have 220/240V outlets.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> You won't typically find them in America since we don't always have 220/240V outlets.


Only if your gunning for the 2KW unit







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snips*
> 
> Huh, I just realised that there are only four of us with Leadex units. Is it really that hard to find Super Flowers over in Europe and America?


The reason there are no leadex in US is because EVGA has the rebrands here. Over in europe I guess people rather buy "average" psu from normal retailers over specialty shops were you do find the superflowers & because Evgas warranty & such here the only reason to import SF into USA is well...mainly looks I suppose (guilty as charged)

@Shilka whenever you can, I posted pic earlier for the SF 1200W Leadex I got (Its funny theres only 1person per wattage type







) <3


----------



## Snips

Haha it's the opposite here in Singapore. Super Flower PSUs are everywhere but I can't find a single EVGA PSU


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snips*
> 
> Haha it's the opposite here in Singapore. Super Flower PSUs are everywhere but I can't find a single EVGA PSU


and I truly hate you for that lol


----------



## gdubc

I have the white 1200w I just need to get that pic up. I also admit it's all about the look. Sure you can get EVGA cheaper and paint 'em, but idk, its just not quite the same...


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have the white 1200w I just need to get that pic up. I also admit it's all about the look. Sure you can get EVGA cheaper and paint 'em, but idk, its just not quite the same...


The thing with white, I kind of regret it now since I have an itch to build in a white chassis. but then I love bequiets new case, and so forth. urgh

Theres some nice cases too but they hide the PSU....and then at that point why did we import


----------



## gdubc

True is that. White S8, 2× white mcp35x, white ek reservoirs, white all day. I think I caught a case of the Sneffles.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> True is that. White S8, 2× white mcp35x, white ek reservoirs, white all day. I think I caught a case of the Sneffles.


I dropped WC. well, partly. I still have most parts to sell. Right now I am in sub $120 dollar white case limbo all because of damned PSU.


----------



## Spork13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> I dropped WC. well, partly. I still have most parts to sell. Right now I am in sub $120 dollar white case limbo all because of damned PSU.


Get a white Phanteks Entho Pro.
Put a window in the PSU shroud.
.
.
Profit!


----------



## shilka

Alright i have been very busy over the last few weeks so sory about that.
Everyone that has not already been added to the owners list even after you posted a picture could you either repost the picture or add a link to which post the picture was posted in?.

Thank you.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> and I truly hate you for that lol


I don't remember where I read it, but I thought someone said that the Leadex units weren't designed for 110/120V outlets.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I don't remember where I read it, but I thought someone said that the Leadex units weren't designed for 110/120V outlets.


I havent heard that one yet actually, interesting. Ive mine up fine and two other golden greens also fine.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> and I truly hate you for that lol
> 
> 
> 
> I don't remember where I read it, but I thought someone said that the Leadex units weren't designed for 110/120V outlets.
Click to expand...

Considering they come from the Taiwan which uses 110v, I am almost certain they would design it for their own voltage specification as well


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Considering they come from the Taiwan which uses 110v, I am almost certain they would design it for their own voltage specification as well


Its probably a notion from 8pack 2kw leadex review (newest) that needs 220v to pull the 2kw


----------



## magbarn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a 1000W G2, and am about to add a second R9 290 to my system for crossfire. I'm not sure if I have enough power or not as using a PSU calculator it shows that I need a 837w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 0%, and 1037w PSU if I set capacitor aging to 20%, and the calculator does not take GPU overclock into account.
> 
> So what happens if you go over your PSU's capacity? Will it just shut off, or will it bug out and fry my components?


You're perfectly fine with your 1000 watt G2. I had 2 x 290x o/c to 1150 (Cooled with AIO G10) with a 4790K o/c and I was only pulling 750 watts at the wall (peak) when gaming.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magbarn*
> 
> You're perfectly fine with your 1000 watt G2. I had 2 x 290x o/c to 1150 (Cooled with AIO G10) with a 4790K o/c and I was only pulling 750 watts at the wall (peak) when gaming.


Thanks I went ahead and added it this weekend. Everything has been working fine.

Better than fine actually:


----------



## Tenaji

Got this late last year. Better late than never.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tenaji*
> 
> 
> Got this late last year. Better late than never.


You have been added to the owners list.


----------



## looniam

saw @EVGA_JacobF retweeted this review:
EVGA SUPERNOVA 1600T2 PSU + INDIVIDUALLY SLEEVED CABLE SET

sorry if it was already posted and didn't see it.


----------



## VSG

Probably not since I only had put it up yesterday









But yeah, it's more of an overview to be honest, I have linked Oklahoma Wolf's review myself in there twice for a more technical, and proper review.


----------



## looniam

sorry i might too quick in pimping out fellow OCNer's reviews.









i appreciated the details on the cable set. did you ever hear back about the 18awg (pci?) wires?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> sorry i might too quick in pimping out fellow OCNer's reviews.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i appreciated the details on the cable set. did you ever hear back about the 18awg (pci?) wires?


lol I don't mind that at all.

Could you remind me which 18 AWG part you were referring to?


----------



## looniam

sure:
PAGE 3
Quote:


> The wires on the daisy chained 6 pin connector all seem to be 18 AWG compared to 16 gauge in the stock cables. This is plenty enough for most people, but if someone is benching hard and has no other choice but to use daisy chained cables, then this may cause an issue. I was told that this could be an issue with my batch only, but I have not received a confirmation that this is the case.


18/16 really is a non issue* since i think even 20awg falls into spec but i don't like that thin of wire . and only cheap PSUs use it.

*but as you pointed out, heavy benching - when running more than specc'd watts through the connection - might be . ..concerned.


----------



## VSG

Oh yeah, I did ask them about it back when I had received those cables (last year). It is very likely a bad batch from what I gathered since I then had received results from their own tests (I could not replicate it so I did not put it in my article):










Now I don't know what conditions these numbers were taken at, and also what PSU was used. But with the 1600T2, as long as I was withing + 5-10% of PCI-E specs, it was fine. I did not go further than that. With the 1300G2 and 1600G2, the effect was noticeable past 10% in terms of power draw from the wall being lower and also unstable OC which were stable before with discrete cables.

To be honest, some seemed so thin that I wasn't sure they were even 18 AWG. But the sleeving material used is very tight on those cables so it could be just a visual thing. I will see if I can get an electrician to confirm for me.


----------



## dilster97

Great unit. powers a i5 3570K and GTX 980 Classified K|NGP|N nicely.

I leave the fan on mostly since it isn't too bothersome.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> 
> 
> Great unit. powers a i5 3570K and GTX 980 Classified K|NGP|N nicely.
> 
> I leave the fan on mostly since it isn't too bothersome.


You have been added to the list.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Are the G2 1300w PCIe power connectors that plug into the unit itself, anything special or are they just a standard 8 pin connector I could buy? I want to resleeve them but would rather just leave the stock ones alone and make new ones.

Also the stock cables have those caps built in, are those even necessary? I see the replacement "sleeved" kits you can buy direct from EVGA don't have caps on them.

On the OP it says if you don't register within 30 days the warranty is not the full length as advertised, what does it cut back to and where is the source for that info? I'm not reading that on EVGA's warranty page itself http://www.evga.com/support/warranty/

This must only apply to select PSU's in that lower list for "Standard Warranty Exceptions" not my 1300w unit.

Thanks for the info


----------



## shilka

Yes the built in caps on the cables are necessary, if you remove them the ripple suppression will go to hell.

And cables for the G2 will only fit on the P2 and T2, nothing else so no you cant use any PCI-E cable.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes the built in caps on the cables are necessary, if you remove them the ripple suppression will go to hell.
> 
> And cables for the G2 will only fit on the P2 and T2, nothing else so no you cant use any PCI-E cable.


So the EVGA sleeved set is worse then stock ones? see here http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CR-1300-B9

What's the best way to resleeve them or does EVGA sell just those cables separate? They used a really bright red on these cables which sticks out terribly lol.

What I meant about using another PCIe cable, actually I was referring to connectors themselves. If I bought a 6+2 pin female connector (like this), does that plug into the power supply itself, or did EVGA use some proprietary 8 pin plug on the ends?

I suppose easiest would be to just buy some spare cables direct from EVGA (if they sell them) and resleeve as is, assuming I can get the pins out of one side at least.


----------



## looniam

i'll just leave this here:
Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 750W
Quote:


> Here are the modular cables. They are nearly identical to the 850's cables, so I decided to spare myself from the extra cable shots. All are black sleeved cables, except for the 3.5" adapter which is ribbon cable.
> 
> The PCI-E cables have small capacitors integrated in them. Not sure those are really necessary, but they likely do help a little bit in getting this platform those insane looking low ripple shots we've been seeing.


----------



## shilka

Cant recall where but i saw some result with the caps removed from the cables and ripple shot way up.
Its 04.16 here and i am way too tired to look for those results.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll just leave this here:
> Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 750W
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the modular cables. They are nearly identical to the 850's cables, so I decided to spare myself from the extra cable shots. All are black sleeved cables, except for the 3.5" adapter which is ribbon cable.
> 
> The PCI-E cables have small capacitors integrated in them. Not sure those are really necessary, but they likely do help a little bit in getting this platform those insane looking low ripple shots we've been seeing.
Click to expand...

I wonder if a set of those or from the 1600w would work on the 1300w model. Maybe they use different caps though. Thanks for info thus far


----------



## phaseshift

the supernova g2 750w is going to be next powersupply!


----------



## phaseshift

http://cablemod.com/products/?filter_models=24

for the g2/p2/


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> 
> 
> Great unit. powers a i5 3570K and GTX 980 Classified K|NGP|N nicely.
> 
> I leave the fan on mostly since it isn't too bothersome.


Ahahahahahahah dildorthedecent is now on OCN!


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> Ahahahahahahah dildorthedecent is now on OCN!


This account was made in 2012 i think. Would like to see if i can get the name changed for consistency.


----------



## JackCY

The hold up time on 850 G2 is fine. Lights were blinking as wind was going nuts outside, router was acting up but the PC didn't reset or shut down one time for the few days.


----------



## Feyris

Something moves around my psu inside when i move it around. Should i be worried its a superflower 1200w platinum leadex

Edit. I got it out there was a screw with washer that fell out and also theres some clear cap

Now im freaking out



proof its from inside


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Something moves around my psu inside when i move it around. Should i be worried its a superflower 1200w platinum leadex
> 
> Edit. I got it out there was a screw with washer that fell out and also theres some clear cap
> 
> Now im freaking out
> 
> 
> 
> proof its from inside


Does not look like a part that belongs, maybe some crap feel into into it in the factory or something like that.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Does not look like a part that belongs, maybe some crap feel into into it in the factory or something like that.


Ive been trying to find a platinum leadex or evga interior teardown to see if that was case. No luck but im mobile and will be for a while

Hopefully....worst thing is if its a loose piece from inside holding something down that fell out somehow

Decided to test it. She seems okay


----------



## fat4l

Hi.
Has anyone tried to replace the fan on 1200w Superflower ?
Black unit with white fan...I dont like it !

If so what fan would be suitable (black or red-black combination).

THanks:thumb:


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> Hi.
> Has anyone tried to replace the fan on 1200w Superflower ?
> Black unit with white fan...I dont like it !
> 
> If so what fan would be suitable (black or red-black combination).
> 
> THanks:thumb:


You know, you can just turn the PSU the other side up and choose not to see the fan...that is, if you've bought a case that has enough quality to be called a case.


----------



## najiro

Joining in









Supernova P2 1200 user here. Yes I know its an overkill. My other PSU is a Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 10 850w and its in my AMD rig. This is my intel rig. The PSU fan isn't running at all on eco mode. Well, it barely heats up even at full load.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *najiro*
> 
> Joining in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supernova P2 1200 user here. Yes I know its an overkill. My other PSU is a Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 10 850w and its in my AMD rig. This is my intel rig. The PSU fan isn't running at all on eco mode. Well, it barely heats up even at full load.


You have been added.


----------



## C!rkus

In last week! Now to get a another vid card or two


----------



## C!rkus

In her Home...


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C!rkus*
> 
> In her Home...


Added.
Next time please use the edit function instead of double posting.

Thank you.


----------



## Rakddon

looking for some input from you guys/girls.

Just sold my EVGA Supernova G2 850W PSU tonight and have 2 PSU options:

EVGA Supernova P2 1200W - $279
EVGA Supernova G2 1300W - 285

according to the evga forums the G2 1300W does not have ECO mode while the P2 1200W does:
http://forums.evga.com/EVGA-G2-Supernova-1300w-vs-EVGA-P2-1200w-vs-Seasonic-P1200-m2270303.aspx

I am confused on which to get.
An extra 100W for $6.

I will be buying tomorrow


----------



## looniam

though i am not a big fan of ECO mode myself - pardon the pun - and unless you post your specs to see if 100 watts would make i difference (but i doubt it will) i'd go for the P2 1200 just for the minor efficiency difference and the perfect score from jonnyguru









Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 1300W

Reviews - EVGA Supernova P2 1200W

the cabling is the same amount (8 pci-e and 4 sata strings) but the 1300 is slightly longer. make a difference in your case size?


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> though i am not a big fan of ECO mode myself - pardon the pun - and unless you post your specs to see if 100 watts would make i difference (but i doubt it will) i'd go for the P2 1200 just for the minor efficiency difference and the perfect score from jonnyguru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 1300W
> 
> Reviews - EVGA Supernova P2 1200W
> 
> the cabling is the same amount (8 pci-e and 4 sata strings) but the 1300 is slightly longer. make a difference in your case size?


My Build:
Case: Thermaltake Core X9
PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 850W - SOLD so need new PSU tomorrow.
GPU: 2 x EVGA Titan X
RAM: GSkill Trident X 16G Kit(8Gx2) DDR3 2400MHz
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme6 Motherboard
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
SSD: Samsung 850 PRO 512GB
HDD: Hitachi HGST Deskstar 3TB 7200RPM
DVD-RW: 2 x LG DVD RW SATA

will be watercooling all parts too...


----------



## looniam

ok, i am sure on the titanX owner's thread an OC'd titanX SLI set up (w/haswell-E) was drawing ~900 watts _at the wall._ so mind you haswell-E OC'd can use up to 100 watts more than a 1150 rig.

1200 watts will have ample headroom and seeing a cube case may make the shorter cables easier to deal with but idk. i'd go for the 1200 just for the better, albeit slightly, efficiency overall and at idle.

but that's just me - considering both are great PSUs.

E;
i think @geggeg has had about every EVGA psu in his hands - he might have better input.


----------



## Rakddon

well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ok, i am sure on the titanX owner's thread an OC'd titanX SLI set up (w/haswell-E) was drawing ~900 watts _at the wall._ so mind you haswell-E OC'd can use up to 100 watts more than a 1150 rig.
> 
> 1200 watts will have ample headroom and seeing a cube case may make the shorter cables easier to deal with but idk. i'd go for the 1200 just for the better, albeit slightly, efficiency overall and at idle.
> 
> but that's just me - considering both are great PSUs.
> 
> E;
> i think @geggeg has had about every EVGA psu in his hands - he might have better input.


Yep the 1200W is what i will go for then.


----------



## Alex132

Is there a way to disable the ***********-connector LEDs on Super Flower PSUs? I really dislike them, and it would stop me from buying one:










http://www.wootware.co.za/super-flower-sf-1000f14mg-leadex-1000w-80-plus-gold-certified-fully-modular-desktop-power-supply.html


----------



## VSG

Lol I haven't had every EVGA PSU in my hands. Yet. I promise.

But seriously though, I find it hard to imagine a scenario common enough where 1300W would help over a 1200W PSU. Usually people go bigger with 1500-1600W units if it comes to that. The fan on the 1000G2 and 1300G2 are also on a relatively aggressive fan profile. I think going with the 1200P2 at a lower price (also a rare thing) is the best way forward here.


----------



## Rakddon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Lol I haven't had every EVGA PSU in my hands. Yet. I promise.
> 
> But seriously though, I find it hard to imagine a scenario common enough where 1300W would help over a 1200W PSU. Usually people go bigger with 1500-1600W units if it comes to that. The fan on the 1000G2 and 1300G2 are also on a relatively aggressive fan profile. I think going with the 1200P2 at a lower price (also a rare thing) is the best way forward here.


Thanks Geggeg!
I will go with the P2 1200W.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Something moves around my psu inside when i move it around. Should i be worried its a superflower 1200w platinum leadex
> 
> Edit. I got it out there was a screw with washer that fell out and also theres some clear cap
> 
> Now im freaking out


^ Looks like one of the screws that attach transistors to their heatsinks:





http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SuperFlower/SF-1200F-14MP/4.html


----------



## shilka

Seems like there is a 550 watt version of the Leadex Gold now which is awesome.
If its as good as the higher wattage versions there is a new king among 550 watt units.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Is there a way to disable the ***********-connector LEDs on Super Flower PSUs? I really dislike them, and it would stop me from buying one:
> 
> http://www.wootware.co.za/super-flower-sf-1000f14mg-leadex-1000w-80-plus-gold-certified-fully-modular-desktop-power-supply.html


EVGA rebrand doesn't have them and is often cheaper.
Without voiding/fiddling with a warranty seal you wouldn't be able to disable them.
On the other hand, how often do you stare into your computer case down on the PSU? 99.99999999% the monitor, remaining the rest of the PC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Something moves around my psu inside when i move it around. Should i be worried its a superflower 1200w platinum leadex
> 
> Edit. I got it out there was a screw with washer that fell out and also theres some clear cap
> 
> Now im freaking out
> 
> 
> 
> proof its from inside


Welcome to the club lol. I had shaken out a blob of solder and a piece of cut bare wire from mine.
Just shake it like mixing a drink and shake it all out









Could be a spare screw for mounting a heatsink. But the plastic piece I don't know what it's used for anymore, nor ever saw it in pictures of a PSU. Could be a plastic spacer for something, but they use metal spacers, so no idea.
Check if all your heatsinks are screwed on with a bolt and a nut. Some have a plastic insulation but that is different from the plastic piece that fell out of yours.


----------



## Rakddon

Proud new owner of a Thermaltake Core X9 + EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1200W PSU


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> EVGA rebrand doesn't have them and is often cheaper.
> Without voiding/fiddling with a warranty seal you wouldn't be able to disable them.
> On the other hand, how often do you stare into your computer case down on the PSU? 99.99999999% the monitor, remaining the rest of the PC.


EVGA is much more expensive here. Also I see my PSU all the time, seeing as how it's right on my desk in my vision.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakddon*
> 
> Proud new owner of a Thermaltake Core X9 + EVGA SuperNOVA P2 1200W PSU


Added.


----------



## LandonAaron

I have a problem hopefully someone here can help me with. To start with I have Evga G2 1000w PSU. Recently my gaming headset a CM Storm Sirus 5.1 headset which has an onboard sound card and is connected using 2 USB plugs started making a popping sound constantly while gaming. I thought it was on its way out so I bought a new headset a Roccat Kave XTD 5.1 which also has an onboard sound card and is connected with a single USB plug an it is making the same exact popping sound as well.

Since both headsets are making the same noise I assume it is caused by some sort of electrical interference in my computer. My speakers have analog connections and connect directly to the motehrboard/soundcard and sound fine. Should I just replace my power supply, or is it more likely a problem coming from some peripheral component like a fan or fan controller or something like that?

I have everything connected to the computer all plugged into the same powerstrip as the computer so I don't think it is a ground loop with another component.


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have a problem hopefully someone here can help me with. To start with I have Evga G2 1000w PSU. Recently my gaming headset a CM Storm Sirus 5.1 headset which has an onboard sound card and is connected using 2 USB plugs started making a popping sound constantly while gaming. I thought it was on its way out so I bought a new headset a Roccat Kave XTD 5.1 which also has an onboard sound card and is connected with a single USB plug an it is making the same exact popping sound as well.
> 
> Since both headsets are making the same noise I assume it is caused by some sort of electrical interference in my computer. My speakers have analog connections and connect directly to the motehrboard/soundcard and sound fine. Should I just replace my power supply, or is it more likely a problem coming from some peripheral component like a fan or fan controller or something like that?
> 
> I have everything connected to the computer all plugged into the same powerstrip as the computer so I don't think it is a ground loop with another component.


What antivirus are you using? it can come from software issues too. test it on another system


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> What antivirus are you using? it can come from software issues too. test it on another system


No antivirus running. I just do periodic scans with Microsoft security essentials. For some reason I just assumed this was an electrical problem, but I just ran DPC Lateny Check and discovered some high latency issues, and narrowed it down at least in part to AISuite. I cleared up that issue and ran LatencyMon and discovered some really long "Highest reported had pagefault resolution time". I assume its long as the bar graph is maxed out and red. Not really sure what this means or what could cause it but I assume now it is not an electrical/PSU problem but a software/driver issue. So I will ask for help in a more appropriate thread.

Thanks,


----------



## Roaches

Hello fellow 1300 G2 owners, I'm looking for a set of Red 8+2 cables, If you no longer use them I could use a few.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554401/wanted-evga-g2-red-pci-e-6-2-pin-vga-power-cables


----------



## broken pixel

Add me to the club please when you get a chance. eVGA sent me a 120-G2-1600-X1 to replace my dying NEX1500. Best PSU RMAs ever, dropped shipped, shipping paid for by eVGA & only $1.00 hold to the bank account.

I was kinda disappointed they did not use the individually sleeved cables, no biggie since the NEX1500 cables fit the input ports on the G2-1600 except the main PSU cable.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Put me down for a 1300 G2, ive had it for around 2 years now very solid unit. Most ive seen it draw with a overvolted 290x crossfire and overclocked 3930k from the wall was 1.21kw running GTA V.

Its way overkill for my system now, since ive sold my water gear and my 2nd 290x but im not going to buy another unit when im planning on selling the rest of my rig in a few months before boot camp.

EDIT: Has anyone else serial number sticker fallen off? I bought mine brand new from amazon about 2 years ago now, but the serial number sticker fell off within a couple months, it started to come up from the middle first, but then eventually it completely fell off. I still have it in the box but my warranty is probably void since its not attached the the PSU?


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Add me to the club please when you get a chance. eVGA sent me a 120-G2-1600-X1 to replace my dying NEX1500. Best PSU RMAs ever, dropped shipped, shipping paid for by eVGA & only $1.00 hold to the bank account.
> 
> I was kinda disappointed they did not use the individually sleeved cables, no biggie since the NEX1500 cables fit the input ports on the G2-1600 except the main PSU cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome upgrade on the RMA









Makes me giddy knowing I have a 10 yr warranty backing my G2 1300 with EVGA which I only paid $160 for.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Add me to the club please when you get a chance. eVGA sent me a 120-G2-1600-X1 to replace my dying NEX1500. Best PSU RMAs ever, dropped shipped, shipping paid for by eVGA & only $1.00 hold to the bank account.
> 
> I was kinda disappointed they did not use the individually sleeved cables, no biggie since the NEX1500 cables fit the input ports on the G2-1600 except the main PSU cable.


Added.
Maybe you should think about getting a CableMod E series kit for it instead.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Awesome upgrade on the RMA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Arizonian for adding me to the club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me giddy knowing I have a 10 yr warranty backing my G2 1300 with EVGA which I only paid $149 for.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added.
> Maybe you should think about getting a CableMod E series kit for it instead.


Why? Those kits are almost 100 USD & they look almost identical to the stock NEX1500 Classified cables. I am keeping the NEX1500 cloth sleeved cables and sending back the G2 1600 cables with my gimped out NEX1500. All I need is one of those tools to push out the pins and I could use the NEX1500 PSU main cable with the G2 1600 split connector.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Why? Those kits are almost 100 USD & they look almost identical to the stock NEX1500 Classified cables. I am keeping the NEX1500 cloth sleeved cables and sending back the G2 1600 cables with my gimped out NEX1500. All I need is one of those tools to push out the pins and I could use the NEX1500 PSU main cable with the G2 1600 split connector.


Are you admitting to ripping off EVGA?


----------



## VSG

Actually you don't have to send the cables at all, EVGA even recommends it to save on shipping. They will send back just the new/replacement PSU itself without cables. Sometimes they end up sending a brand new unit with cables again.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Why? Those kits are almost 100 USD & they look almost identical to the stock NEX1500 Classified cables. I am keeping the NEX1500 cloth sleeved cables and sending back the G2 1600 cables with my gimped out NEX1500. All I need is one of those tools to push out the pins and I could use the NEX1500 PSU main cable with the G2 1600 split connector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They are going to know those arn't the correct cables, and are probably going to deny your RMA request unless you send back the original cables.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> They are going to know those arn't the correct cables, and are probably going to deny your RMA request unless you send back the original cables.


I already have the new PSU they do advanced RMA with their PSUs and drop ship. Meaning I already have the new unit and also talked to support about using my old cables. If they so desire they can charge my credit card if they need to. Plus the cables they are getting back can be used again. The eVGA stock pile of NEX1500 are all gone. I guess you guys have never experienced the Awesome RMA service eVGA has to offer?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> I already have the new PSU they do advanced RMA with their PSUs and drop ship. Meaning I already have the new unit and also talked to support about using my old cables. If they so desire they can charge my credit card if they need to. Plus the cables they are getting back can be used again. The eVGA stock pile of NEX1500 are all gone. I guess you guys have never experienced the Awesome RMA service eVGA has to offer?


No i RMA'ed 4 motherboards in a row though EVGA i know plenty about their RMA department lol. If they said its ok you keep the cables then i guess thats fine, most of the time they want all the original accessories and stuff back in my experiences.


----------



## broken pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> No i RMA'ed 4 motherboards in a row though EVGA i know plenty about their RMA department lol. If they said its ok you keep the cables then i guess thats fine, most of the time they want all the original accessories and stuff back in my experiences.


Four, wow! sounds like my ASUS R4E RMA experience a while back.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broken pixel*
> 
> Four, wow! sounds like my ASUS R4E RMA experience a while back.


Yeah....

Had a P55 SLI FTW that died due to my own fault thought i could cut out a HDD bay without removing the board... a few bits of metal hit it and damaged the circuits. Paid EVGA $99 to replace it, the next board they sent was a DOA P55 FTW sent it back they didn't have anymore 1156 socket boards so i bought a 3570k to replace my aging i7 860. Got a low end P67 from EVGA as a replacement from my 1 model from the top P55. It refused to boot from any SATA device. Returned it for another p67, this one was again DOA.... At that point i had boughten a new PSU and RAM to make sure it wasn't my stuff and still no go. Returned that board. Finally got a 3rd P67 replacement, it worked but would BSOD all the time, so at this point i had been RMAing for about 4 months, because it took about 2-3 weeks for each replacement to get back to my house. Now here comes the fishy part, I had dropped the socket cover into the socket which damaged 1 pin, which i bent back and you could never tell a difference, EVGA got the board and said it had no socket cover at all installed and 1/2 the socket was damaged and I would need to pay them $140 to fix the socket, I said forget it I can buy this piece of junk board new on eBay for less then $80. I want to know why they claimed I had no socket cover and how 1/2 the pins magically got damaged when they were 100% fine when it was in my hands. The original issue with the board wasn't due to me dropping the cover onto the socket, the pins were 100% perfect when I was BSODing that happened after the fact.

Now that said, the EVGA support staff was pretty friendly though the whole process until they claimed the damage which i didn't do to the last board, I was ready to get my system running again so i just bought an AsROCK Z77 OC Formula and cut my losses (that's a different story lol) I will still buy another GPU or PSU from them, but nothing with socket pins.


----------



## LostParticle

Hey guys,

I'm leaving here a question I've posted on another topic, perhaps someone could help a bit









Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Okay, I think I understand you - first time ever I will try this simple connection, bare with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I post the back side of my PSU and its cables directly because the links I gave for some reason do not work anymore.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, my PSU provides only one molex cable - I hope this is how it's called. I already use this though to power my soundcard. *Is it OK if I will connect the pump to this cable, using the 3-4 pin fan adapter you've shown earlier? I mean, is it OK if both my soundcard and the pump of my H110 will use one, the same, cable?* This molex cable is connected to the "PERIF1" slot on my PSU.
> 
> Thank you.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm leaving here a question I've posted on another topic, perhaps someone could help a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Okay, I think I understand you - first time ever I will try this simple connection, bare with me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I post the back side of my PSU and its cables directly because the links I gave for some reason do not work anymore.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, my PSU provides only one molex cable - I hope this is how it's called. I already use this though to power my soundcard. *Is it OK if I will connect the pump to this cable, using the 3-4 pin fan adapter you've shown earlier? I mean, is it OK if both my soundcard and the pump of my H110 will use one, the same, cable?* This molex cable is connected to the "PERIF1" slot on my PSU.
> 
> Thank you.
Click to expand...

it will be fine. however i am not sure of the exact amount of wattage the pump uses but knowing that most motherboard fan headers can use 12 watts (1 amp of 12v) and that sound card won't use anywhere near that.

i don't sweat a molex connection of 50 watts or less.


----------



## benjamen50

I just got the EVGA Supernova P2 1200W, definitely worth buying as my CoolerMaster V700 was not enough for 2x GTX 780 OCs and a 4790K 4.7GHz OC.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> I just got the EVGA Supernova P2 1200W, definitely worth buying as my CoolerMaster V700 was not enough for 2x GTX 780 OCs and a 4790K 4.7GHz OC.


Post a picture of it and i will add you to the owners list.


----------



## benjamen50

Here's a picture, I hope it's good enough.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> Here's a picture, I hope it's good enough.


You have been added.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Still haven't been added for a 1300 G2, not really worried about it when ever you have time.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Still haven't been added for a 1300 G2, not really worried about it when ever you have time.


I missed some a while back and i asked everyone i missed to post so they could be added if i had missed them.
You have been added now so sory about that.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I missed some a while back and i asked everyone i missed to post so they could be added if i had missed them.
> You have been added now so sory about that.


No worries, thanks for the add.


----------



## vertical2

Count me in...just installed a 750 G2.



Thx,

vertical2


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> Count me in...just installed a 750 G2.
> 
> 
> 
> Thx,
> 
> vertical2


You have been added.


----------



## MisakiChan

Since you wanted me to post here







Evga G2 750W installed into S340. There is no other way to show the psu, cableshroud blocks the view.



Great psu so far. The cables where a bit stif when they arrived but it get's better over time. Very silent psu, even when eco-mode is off. Is a must since I can't have fan up in this case.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisakiChan*
> 
> Since you wanted me to post here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Evga G2 750W installed into S340. There is no other way to show the psu, cableshroud blocks the view.
> 
> 
> 
> Great psu so far. The cables where a bit stif when they arrived but it get's better over time. Very silent psu, even when eco-mode is off. Is a must since I can't have fan up in this case.


Added to the owners list.


----------



## rtikphox

as soon as i use a box cutter this thing going in my PC.


----------



## shilka

Super Flower shows off some new Leadex units and more at Computex 2015.







Seems like there is now a 550 and a 600 watt version of the Leadex which is about damm time


----------



## Kimir

Yes! Bring the titanium to the lower power PSU!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes! Bring the titanium to the lower power PSU!


They are not going to bring Titanium Leadex lower then 750 watt, efficiency does not matter all that much anyway.


----------



## Kimir

Oh I was misled by the second image then, Saw Leadex Titanium 550w /600w /650w /750w /100w /1200w /1600w on the top.
Still, around 500 platinum would be great.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh I was misled by the second image then, Saw Leadex Titanium 550w /600w /650w /750w /100w /1200w /1600w on the top.
> Still, around 500 platinum would be great.


They might have plans for 550/600 watt platinum and titanium but its not something i have heard about.
Only one i know for a fact that is confirmed is the 550 watt gold


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Proud owner of a stunning white Superflower 1200w. Can get pics later after work of needed.


Well, a year (and 862 posts) later, here's some pics. Crazy. A year. I suck.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Well, a year (and 862 posts) later, here's some pics. Crazy. A year. I suck.


You have been added to the list.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Count me in the club w/ the 1k G2



Now quick question, the pcie power cables there is a 8 / 6 on one cable. Would it be safe to run this on my gpu or would it be more advisable to run individual cables for each connector on my gpu. I know that the rail will not be the issue but was curious if the cable itself would limit power supply?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Count me in the club w/ the 1k G2
> 
> 
> 
> Now quick question, the pcie power cables there is a 8 / 6 on one cable. Would it be safe to run this on my gpu or would it be more advisable to run individual cables for each connector on my gpu. I know that the rail will not be the issue but was curious if the cable itself would limit power supply?


It does not matter the least if you use one or two cables per video card.
And you have been added.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Thank you sir. So i think i grossly underestimated my power supply needs and may need to return and upgrade to a high capacity power supply. When i originally had purchased this, i was going to use SLI 970's. Since then i have picked up 2 980 ti's. I redid the calculations at http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and noticed that they recommed going w/ a minimum of 1224w. Should i go for the 1300 watt power supply or step up to the 1600 since I intend to tweak the gpu bios for a little bit extra voltage.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Thank you sir. So i think i grossly underestimated my power supply needs and may need to return and upgrade to a high capacity power supply. When i originally had purchased this, i was going to use SLI 970's. Since then i have picked up 2 980 ti's. I redid the calculations at http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and noticed that they recommed going w/ a minimum of 1224w. Should i go for the 1300 watt power supply or step up to the 1600 since I intend to tweak the gpu bios for a little bit extra voltage.


The correct way to use the extreme outervision PSU calculator
Even if you do that it will still give you a higher number then you are going to see in the real world.

1000 watts is more then enough for ANY system with two single GPU video cards.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The correct way to use the extreme outervision PSU calculator
> Even if you do that it will still give you a higher number then you are going to see in the real world.
> 
> *1000 watts is more then enough for ANY system with two single GPU video cards.*


Unless you are going to use some strix/matrix/classified/kingpin cards at 1.35v and higher, then it is not enough.
For reference design w/o volt mod, 850w suffice.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Thank you sir. So i think i grossly underestimated my power supply needs and may need to return and upgrade to a high capacity power supply. When i originally had purchased this, i was going to use SLI 970's. Since then i have picked up 2 980 ti's. I redid the calculations at http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and noticed that they recommed going w/ a minimum of 1224w. Should i go for the 1300 watt power supply or step up to the 1600 since I intend to tweak the gpu bios for a little bit extra voltage.


read below please








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The correct way to use the extreme outervision PSU calculator
> Even if you do that it will still give you a higher number then you are going to see in the real world.
> 
> *1000 watts is more then enough for ANY system with two single GPU video cards.*


^pretty much this. i have used EOV psu calac and seen it add 25 watts for a single hard drive. that is about 3x more than the average 8 watts - power consumption is listed on the label of every HD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Unless you are going to use some strix/matrix/classified/kingpin cards at 1.35v and higher, then it is not enough.
> For reference design w/o volt mod, 850w suffice.


again pretty much this BUT _the power target is the largest most determining factor in how much a gpu will need._ i unfortunately deleted the PM but occamrazor showed me where he increased the voltage on his titans and the power didn't increase until he upped the power target. then the power consumption increased proportionately.

ie using a bios modded for 300 watts and increasing to 110% PT; the power draw will be 330 watts for the gpu.

anotheraznguy - that haswell-E rig in your sig will use 300- 330 watts with ~1.35-1.4 vcore. forgot where/what realworld bench i saw that but you might want to consider it for your base power draw. i'm pretty sure on the titanX owners thread that a 1K PSU does have enough for SLI. but it won't hurt if you want a little more headroom for your comfort level,


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Thank you sir. So i think i grossly underestimated my power supply needs and may need to return and upgrade to a high capacity power supply. When i originally had purchased this, i was going to use SLI 970's. Since then i have picked up 2 980 ti's. I redid the calculations at http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and noticed that they recommed going w/ a minimum of 1224w. Should i go for the 1300 watt power supply or step up to the 1600 since I intend to tweak the gpu bios for a little bit extra voltage.


I don't know what you put there but for two 980Tis and 2011 a 1000W PSU is fine.

Hell if not, send one or two 980Ti's my way, they will run fine on 850W for me


----------



## ondoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Unless you are going to use some strix/matrix/classified/kingpin cards at 1.35v and higher, then it is not enough.
> For reference design w/o volt mod, 850w suffice.


i have 5820k @ 4ghz on 1.16v , planning to get 2x980Ti , my 850G2 should be able to hold up right ?


----------



## JackCY

I would say so. At stock shouldn't be an issue. Even if the 2xGPU could ask for 600W peak, there is still 250W left for the CPU and other components. A single 980Ti total system with [email protected] on Anand. took almost 400W.
The most power hungry 2xGPU combo is 2x290x and is 551W on the cards.
Guru tested on [email protected] 1x980Ti total system 332W, guessed GPU consumption 250W.

2x980Ti should not really ask for more than 500W. 2xTitan is 486W.

From Guru:
Quote:


> GeForce GTX 980 Ti - On your average system the card requires you to have a 600 Watts power supply unit.
> GeForce GTX 980 Ti SLI - On your average system the cards require you to have a 900 Watts power supply unit as minimum.


But I would say 1x980Ti will run just fine on 550W for average system, hell even 450W if you don't OC.
2x980Ti on 850W shouldn't be an issue, with no OC or extra power draws even 750W might be enough.

The consumption is about the level of Titan, TitanX, 780Ti, 290.
I believe they are also advertised to be 250W along with TitanX, this being a cut down version so it will eat a little less at the same clock/volts.


----------



## shilka

Everyone the wait is now over the 550 and 650 watt G2 is now here or will be soon
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=429


----------



## JackCY

Hooray hooray hooray!


----------



## TMatzelle60

Are those G2 still leadex PSU if so thats great. Lower WATTAGE! Lower PRICE!! GREAT PSU!!

NVM read that its a Leadex this is great news.

I7 Skylake with GTX 980ti omg even better all EVGA Stuff!!


----------



## tabascosauz

Oklahomawolf is a more than a little salty towards shilka given his comments on TPU and his RM850 review. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=422

Anyways, the RM850 is now CWT and full Chemicon for electrolytics. Nothing to complain about, except for the soldering, which oklahomawolf clearly doesn't like.


----------



## Kimir

Hmm, surprised to see the 550/650G2 already in stock and at a lower prive than the GS on EVGA.EU shop.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> Oklahomawolf is a more than a little salty towards shilka given his comments on TPU and his RM850 review. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=422
> 
> Anyways, the RM850 is now CWT and full Chemicon for electrolytics. Nothing to complain about, except for the soldering, which oklahomawolf clearly doesn't like.


the whole cap thing is often overblown. the RM 850 is still overpriced which Oklahoma Wolf agrees.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Shilka has every right to bash the older unit.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> the whole cap thing is often overblown. the RM 850 is still overpriced which Oklahoma Wolf agrees.


True. He's stopped deducting points for Teapo lytics and the Teapo and CapXon polymers aren't of any problem.

I'm guessing that Corsair wants people to look towards the CSMs instead.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> True. He's stopped deducting points for Teapo lytics and the Teapo and CapXon polymers aren't of any problem.
> 
> I'm guessing that Corsair wants people to look towards the CSMs instead.


I don't know why. they have many better products that cost more money and that whole CSM line is overpriced as well. that's pretty much the issue people have with them these days. the segmentation is crazy and who wants a low end 750 or 850 watt psu? it doesn't even make sense. meh.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I don't know why. they have many better products that cost more money and that whole CSM line is overpriced as well. that's pretty much the issue people have with them these days. the segmentation is crazy and who wants a low end 750 or 850 watt psu? it doesn't even make sense. meh.


People who have more money than sense (read: most of Corsair's consumers).


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> People who have more money than sense (read: most of Corsair's consumers).


Hey, knock it off. I have a K40 and a 900D.

...and a 1600W EVGA Supernova but that's not the point


----------



## trodas

Quote:


> He's stopped deducting points for Teapo lytics and the Teapo and CapXon polymers aren't of any problem.


Witch is the point I stoped trusting this. Because we all know, what happens, when you use Teapo electrolyte caps...







Also trusting Teapo and CapXon polymers, after the experience with their elytes, seems kinda risky. I don't buy it...

...

But as eVGA Supernova G2 850W user, pls count me it
















Slightly moded already, I hate restrictions to airflow to *DEATH*:


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I don't know why. they have many better products that cost more money and that whole CSM line is overpriced as well. that's pretty much the issue people have with them these days. the segmentation is crazy and who wants a low end 750 or 850 watt psu? it doesn't even make sense. meh.


RM850 $140
RM850i $170
850 G2 $138

That's newegg. In EU the difference is not $2 but $20. I suppose Corsair is cashing in on their reputation with the masses.

I would still take Japanese made products over Chinese, the difference for me being Japanese try to make top notch stuff and take honor in what they do, Chinese copy and steal what the heck they can and spit it out in huge volumes at random low quality with their engineering indeed improving but still far off.

Trodas: Skoda ze prijdes o zaruku. (Too bad you will lose warranty.)


----------



## shilka

Wait $170 for an RMi? i dont know how good it is yet but i really hope its on par with the G2 with that price.
Just have to wait and see.

Jonnyguru himself has worked on the RMi series so at least its someone who knows what they are doing.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Wait $170 for an RMi? i dont know how good it is yet but i really hope its on par with the G2 with that price.
> Just have to wait and see.
> 
> Jonnyguru himself has worked on the RMi series so at least its someone who knows what they are doing.


Had to search it again, yes, it is $170 same as discounted HXi.

Corsair lists (850W), lowest prices, they have many there often in range of +$20:
HXi $190 Plat
RMi $180 Gold
HX $170 Gold
RM $150 Gold

Some are even hard to find in local shops, like HX series and RMi. HX probably old and replaced with HXi while RMi is too new.
All are above Leadex 850W, including CoolerMaster V850 RS850-AFBAG1 and all below Antec HCP 850 Plat (Delta madness).

Still don't get the difference between HX and RM, except for HXi being platinum and HX having more connectors.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Had to search it again, yes, it is $170 same as discounted HXi.
> 
> Corsair lists (850W), lowest prices, they have many there often in range of +$20:
> HXi $190 Plat
> RMi $180 Gold
> HX $170 Gold
> RM $150 Gold
> 
> Some are even hard to find in local shops, like HX series and RMi. HX probably old and replaced with HXi while RMi is too new.
> All are above Leadex 850W, including CoolerMaster V850 RS850-AFBAG1 and all below Antec HCP 850 Plat (Delta madness).
> 
> Still don't get the difference between HX and RM, except for HXi being platinum and HX having more connectors.


HX is older, but higher end. uses more premium caps and is rated to 50c vs 40c. the RM is optimized for quiet operation as well and that was never a strong point in the HX series, seemingly getting worse with updated version.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Hey, knock it off. I have a K40 and a 900D.
> 
> ...and a 1600W EVGA Supernova but that's not the point


_Most_.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> HX is older, but higher end. uses more premium caps and is rated to 50c vs 40c. the RM is optimized for quiet operation as well and that was never a strong point in the HX series, seemingly getting worse with updated version.


HXi, HX, RMi 50C
RM 40C

HXi, RMi, RM 40% fanless
HX 20% fanless

Yeah I guess there is some construction/parts difference.


----------



## Cool Mike

Any ideas when a titanium rated 850-1200W PSU will be released in the USA?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Any ideas when a titanium rated 850-1200W PSU will be released in the USA?


when it becomes financially viable to do so, someone will do it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Any ideas when a titanium rated 850-1200W PSU will be released in the USA?


There is a P2 850 watt on the way and there is a T2 1000 and 1200 watt on the way as well.
No word on any dates.
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm


----------



## JackCY

This is what SF offers but not all are easy to get, find in shops. Might not even be all, it's one platform so they can adjust to customer's (EVGA) needs and make ones that they do not offer under their own SF brand.

Titanium 1600W
Platinum 650-2000W
Gold 650-1600W

You can always look for SF instead of EVGA, they just tend to cost a little more and have different aesthetics.

FAQ: Recommended Power Supplies

started on 04/29/07
•

last post 09/26/17 at 4:32am
•

6752 replies
•

554846 views

Lists more Titanium units for SF but I have no idea where those came from, they are marked green as well, maybe they are to be expected, who knows.

Thing is there really aren't that many titanium units, consumer oriented that is. I'm sure there might be some for other markets.


----------



## Cool Mike

Shilka
thanks for the answer. Thumbs up.


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trodas*
> 
> Witch is the point I stoped trusting this. Because we all know, what happens, when you use Teapo electrolyte caps...


You'd best not buy an older PC Power and Cooling Turbo-Cool then... Win-Tact was in LOVE with Teapo. During the days when Teapo wasn't as good as they are now. And yet those units rarely failed. A lot of people are still using them.

Etasis? Same story. I have a Silverstone ST56ZF in the other room full of Teapo that still works like new. And that unit is a good 7-8 years old itself.


----------



## Blaise170

Important thing with a lot of caps is to make sure you keep them cool. A good design with less than stellar capacitors can still run for a lot longer than a bad design.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quick question for those that are running PS with the eco mode and mounted on the bottom. Do you have the fan facing down or up. My question is that when i have eco mode on with the fan on the bottom the top of the PS seems to be the hottest part of my whole system. I have experienced some random rebooting and the inability to start the computer until i let the psu cool down. All my fans are sub 800 rpm and there is no fan that offers direct cooling to the power supply.

My question is if i flip the power supply with the fan/vent on top, will that help release the hot air allowing my psu to not run so hot? Sadly i don't have an IR thermometer to measure how hot it is to see if eco mode is properly working.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Quick question for those that are running PS with the eco mode and mounted on the bottom. Do you have the fan facing down or up. My question is that when i have eco mode on with the fan on the bottom the top of the PS seems to be the hottest part of my whole system. I have experienced some random rebooting and the inability to start the computer until i let the psu cool down. All my fans are sub 800 rpm and there is no fan that offers direct cooling to the power supply.
> 
> My question is if i flip the power supply with the fan/vent on top, will that help release the hot air allowing my psu to not run so hot? Sadly i don't have an IR thermometer to measure how hot it is to see if eco mode is properly working.


There is no one in here as far as i know that have a GS or PS as those are Seasonic made units.
This club is only for the Leadex units and the EVGA based Leadex units.


----------



## Alex132

He has a 1000w G2 - I assume he meant PS as in 'Power Supply'.

And with regards to his question, are you sure that there is enough distance between the bottom of your case and the floor? Is it standing on some carpet which is blocking airflow? And lastly, are you sure the fan is working at all?


----------



## shilka

Its called PSU not PS if you say PS it will get confused with the EVGA SuperNova PS series.


----------



## Alex132

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

People do it a lot, plus it's the only thing that made sense in that context.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Quick question for those that are running PS with the eco mode and mounted on the bottom. Do you have the fan facing down or up. My question is that when i have eco mode on with the fan on the bottom the top of the PS seems to be the hottest part of my whole system. I have experienced some random rebooting and the inability to start the computer until i let the psu cool down. All my fans are sub 800 rpm and there is no fan that offers direct cooling to the power supply.
> 
> My question is if i flip the power supply with the fan/vent on top, will that help release the hot air allowing my psu to not run so hot? Sadly i don't have an IR thermometer to measure how hot it is to see if eco mode is properly working.


I'm running fine for almost a year, but not as power hungry system:

4690K 1.22-1.28V 4.5-4.6GHz
280x 1.2V
EVGA 850 G2 ECO mode, fan always stays off (overkill because I got it as an exchange after a return of 2xSeasonic G 650 due to insane coil whine, couldn't be happier!)
140mm case fans 2x front + 1x bottom + 1x exhaust 500rpm<50C - [email protected] (CPU)
140mm CPU fan 550rpm<50C - [email protected]
100mm GPU fans 2x 1100rpm<60C, cca 1500rpm on load
PSU fan facing down, grill back of the case Define R4
cut out grills on the case and PSU intake enlarged to fit 850 G2
bottom filter removable from the front since the PSU fan never spins up in ECO mode under my loads
case is higher than normal due to moded feet with 1" rubber spacer



PSU case gets warm but not hot under load.
I did contemplate having the fan facing inside where air would probably be drawn from the PSU by GPU fan, unfiltered and warm, not good. I doubt the pressure would be high enough to push air out of the PSU.
It only gets warm under prolonged heavy load but I trust the 10y warranty and that the load on PSU isn't that big considering what it was designed for.

If you are having issues, first you will have to reverse all OC to eliminate the possibility of unstable OC and test it on stock for a long time, say a month and see if you notice a difference or it still misbehaves.
The PSU should be warm but not so hot to touch that you would burn yourself = not be able to touch it/hold it.
For sure check if your fan works at all.

If none helps, well depending on your warranty, contact EVGA/seller explain the issue (of overheating if that is so after testing) and request an exchange. Could be a faulty fan, fan controller/temp. sensor, who knows.
I've never seen the PSUs having an issue with up to 50-60% load on ambient to stay in fanless mode. And in hot box they turn the fan on sooner, much sooner, based on temperature not load. It should be rated to 50C.

But *1000 G2 and 1300 G2 don't have ECO mode. Only the SF Leadex ones do, the EVGA versions don't.*
If you have 1000 PS, 1050 GS, that's Seasonic, the ECO mode/fanless doesn't stay ON that long. And a discussion in their respective thread. Sorry don't know much about Seasonic units other than having good reputation and my experience with them being unsatisfactory.

Please list your exact PSU in question and what it is powering.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Sorry for the confusion fellas. PS=PSU. In terms of my power-supply i ended up upgrading to the 1200 P2.

The computer is on for work from 8 am till about 1am and is constantly under at least 30-50% load. During the later hours when gaming, CPU load gets hit to 100% with CPU near 40%. The computer is also on a desk with the stock feet on a fractal S. from the desk to the bottom of the case there is about 6/10 of an inch gap. When i turn Eco mode off, the fans spin on and it cools down the PSU pretty quickly.



Since I Don't have any fans on my GPUs i was thinking that having the fan on top of the PSU would just allow hot air to ventilate. In terms of case ventilarion, There are 3 fans up front for intake 2 of them are in front of the rad and 1 is unimpeded at the top portion. The rear is also an intake primarily to help cool the vrm's as they were getting hot during idle. The top has 3 exhaust.

There is quite a bit of stagnant air at the bottom of the case so no air is really moving around down there.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Sorry for the confusion fellas. PS=PSU. In terms of my power-supply i ended up upgrading to the 1200 P2.
> 
> The computer is on for work from 8 am till about 1am and is constantly under at least 30-50% load. During the later hours when gaming, CPU load gets hit to 100% with CPU near 40%. The computer is also on a desk with the stock feet on a fractal S. from the desk to the bottom of the case there is about 6/10 of an inch gap. When i turn Eco mode off, the fans spin on and it cools down the PSU pretty quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I Don't have any fans on my GPUs i was thinking that having the fan on top of the PSU would just allow hot air to ventilate. In terms of case ventilarion, There are 3 fans up front for intake 2 of them are in front of the rad and 1 is unimpeded at the top portion. The rear is also an intake primarily to help cool the vrm's as they were getting hot during idle. The top has 3 exhaust.
> 
> There is quite a bit of stagnant air at the bottom of the case so no air is really moving around down there.


Considering you are WCing your gpu the heat transfer would be minor if a factor at all if you flipped it upside down. otherwise you could always set your tower up "on blocks" like its an old hoopdy in the driveway. lol









but honestly why turn eco on anyway? sounds to me like it works fine and stgays cool from what you say when eco is off and fan is spinning. especially since you seem to run your rig for 17hours a day.


----------



## shilka

If you have a filter in the bottom of the case you should let it face down,unless you have your PC on a thick carpet or something.
It does not really matter all that much which way you let it face as long as it gets at least a little bit of air.


----------



## anotheraznguy

The main reason why i'd like to leave ECO on is primarily due to the fact that the fan noise is quite loud. With Eco off, the PSU fan is nearly double the fan noise of any other component within the system and is contantly running at high speeds. At load, my GPUs max out at 50C and my CPU hovers at 65C with the fans never going over 1000 rpm. When i switch the Eco on, I do not believe i have yet heard the fan spin up at all which is why I was curious at what point they would turn on.


----------



## JackCY

The PSU fan is quiet, it only spins as much as it needs to. Sure having 400W constant consumption is going to ask for some cooling and fan speeds, no way around that.
Define S has the crappy R4 bottom:
- low feet
- filter removal to the rear
- minimum ventilation on bottom
- fan grill positioned for small PSUs not for Leadex or any other longer PSUs and the fan intake gets partially blocked

==> bottom intake and PSU cooling sucks on stock FD cases, like most other cases probably too unless they have proper higher feet


----------



## anotheraznguy

I recorded a video of the noise when the eco mode is off and then turned on






I believe i would notice when the fans are one during eco mode. I left the fans on for 30 minutes and the fans did not spin down at all.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> I recorded a video of the noise when the eco mode is off and then turned on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe i would notice when the fans are one during eco mode. I left the fans on for 30 minutes and the fans did not spin down at all.


you have a small choice... you can replace the fan. put something in that runs at a decibel you can enjoy and leave eco on.

This IS OCN after all... you SHOULD want the best... and you should take steps to get there







<--- like this guy


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> you have a small choice... you can replace the fan. put something in that runs at a decibel you can enjoy and leave eco on.
> 
> This IS OCN after all... you SHOULD want the best... and you should take steps to get there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <--- like this guy


Quite honestly, I'd prefer not to replace the fan as it will void the warranty in case something were to happen. (Knock on wood)
Do the fans turn on in eco mode based on load or temperature?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> I recorded a video of the noise when the eco mode is off and then turned on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe i would notice when the fans are one during eco mode. I left the fans on for 30 minutes and the fans did not spin down at all.


Hard to judge the noise from audio quality it sounds so weird.
According to TPU the fans on 1200 P2 spin 1180rpm at around 40-60% load and fan turns on at around 55C.
Of course at higher loads = higher temps. the fan spins faster.

Any PSU will not be quiet when you want high wattage, the waste heat is not small even if it is a titanium unit. See how many watts is wasted and compare it to old light bulbs to get an idea of how much heat it is.
EVGA Leadex below 1000W doesn't spin fans as fast as 1000W and above.
When I turn my fan ON I hear mostly the ball bearings and that's it, quiet barely noticeable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Quite honestly, I'd prefer not to replace the fan as it will void the warranty in case something were to happen. (Knock on wood)
> Do the fans turn on in eco mode based on load or temperature?


Temperature. The precise temp. limits and hysteresis should be on the PSU box.

Yeah, there you go:


If you are loading about half of the PSU power then the fan will probably turn on, if not soon then later once the PSU heats up and it will not turn off because it would need to drop below 45C, which is not gonna happen until you reduce the load.


----------



## dilster97

I just keep the fan always on on my 850 G2. Bearly audible.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> I just keep the fan always on on my 850 G2. Bearly audible.


I have mine on always as well and i cant hear it even if i stick my ear right up to the bottom of the case.
My video cards and case fans make way more noise in both ilde and during gaming so i really cant relate to everyone that complain the G2 to be loud.

The 1000/1300 watts might be louder as they need to have a more aggressive fan profile to deal with the heat.


----------



## Blaise170

I have a desk fan and dehumidifer running nearly 24/7 so noise isn't an issue for me either.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I have a desk fan and dehumidifer running nearly 24/7 so noise isn't an issue for me either.


During the summer i have a big metal fan right next to me so i cant even hear the PC, cant even hear the PC with every fan in it cranked to max.
The thing about noise is once you get used to it you dont notice it anymore, maybe everyone should man up and get used to a little bit of noise instead of whining about it.


----------



## drBlahMan

Why the *650 GS* is not part of this group?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Why the *650 GS* is not part of this group?


Because its made by Seasonic.
EVGA SuperNova lineup explained


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Because its made by Seasonic.
> EVGA SuperNova lineup explained


Gotcha







Well at least I know it's a decent psu. Got it for $70. JonnyGuru's review convinced me it would be a decent purchase


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Gotcha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well at least I know it's a decent psu. Got it for $70. JonnyGuru's review convinced me it would be a decent purchase


Its a bit average and the G2 would have been a better option if it was out at the time
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438054


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its a bit average and the G2 would have been a better option if it was out at the time
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438054


Just read JonnyGuru''s review. I understand what you're saying







Overall, my purchase was decent but for $30 more, I've could of had a 10-performance G2 vs my 8.5-performance GS.


----------



## PsYcHo29388

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its a bit average and the G2 would have been a better option if it was out at the time
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438054
> 
> 
> 
> Just read JonnyGuru''s review. I understand what you're saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, my purchase was decent but for $30 more, I've could of had a 10-performance G2 vs my 8.5-performance GS.
Click to expand...

I paid $60 for my 550W GS and while I "could" have waited for the G2, I don't think it will really matter in the end since I'm not overclocking. shilka himself said it in another post that unless you are doing extreme overclocking the difference in performance between the GS and G2 series would be negligible*

*disclaimer: he didn't say it exactly like that, but it's how I interpreted it.


----------



## Roaches

Kinda glad they came out with smaller versions based on SuperFlower's platforms. Remembered some of us asked about smaller PSU variants due to their 750 and 850 G2 being in relatively big enclosures for their wattage.


----------



## JackCY

650 GS 150mm
650 G2 165mm
850 G2 180mm

I think it's only an issue in older cases. They even block the fan intakes for 140mm fans that are not mounted right at the edge of PSU.
Newer design cases like R5 have more flexible bottom intake.



Not that I wouldn't cut the grill out to fit specific components anyway.


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 650 GS 150mm
> 650 G2 165mm
> 850 G2 180mm
> 
> I think it's only an issue in older cases. They even block the fan intakes for 140mm fans that are not mounted right at the edge of PSU.
> Newer design cases like R5 have more flexible bottom intake.
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I wouldn't cut the grill out to fit specific components anyway.


I have an R5 and an EVGA 1300 and I was able to rig in a fan on the bottom right next to it. It is using a mix of fan mounts and grill holes but it looks ok and doesn't rattle or anything.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Some new Platinum units









http://www.evga.com/articles/00943/EVGA-SuperNOVA-850-750-650-P2-Power-Supplies/


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> Some new Platinum units
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.evga.com/articles/00943/EVGA-SuperNOVA-850-750-650-P2-Power-Supplies/


Great news with both the 850/750 and 650 watt P2.
What are EVGA plans for the T2 series? the Leadex platform goes as low as 550 watt and right now you only have the T2 1600 watt with the 1000 and 1200 watt on the way.

Any plans for 550 / 650 / 750 and 850 watt T2 at some point?


----------



## Kimir

EVGA power supply lineup is getting bigger and bigger, great! (and with the 10y warranty, it's always a good deal, even in EU despite the $/€ ratio)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> EVGA power supply lineup is getting bigger and bigger, great! (and with the 10y warranty, it's always a good deal, even in EU despite the $/€ ratio)


You dont get the full 10 year warranty unless you register your unit and its serial number on the EVGA website with 30 days.
Seems like a lot of people miss that and think they get the full 10 year warranty as soon as they buy it.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont get the full 10 year warranty unless you register your unit and its serial number on the EVGA website with 30 days.
> Seems like a lot of people miss that and think they get the full 10 year warranty as soon as they buy it.


I'm well aware of that, and my 1300G2, my evbot, two 780Ti KPE and 980 KPE have been registered they day I received them. I'm used to this practice nowadays.
By the way, in the EMEA warranty terms, it's explicitly written:
Quote:


> EVGA offers various limited warranty terms from the date of purchase to the original owner with a valid invoice. For original owners without a valid invoice and users that have not purchased the product from an authorized reseller, the warranty period is 3 years from the date that the product was shipped from EVGA's warehouse. Registration is recommended by EVGA, but *not* required on the following:
> 
> Limited 3 Year Suffixes: -EK, -K1, -K2, -K3, -KR, -KA, -KF, -KM
> Limited 5 Year Suffixes: -GR, -VR
> Limited 10 Year Suffix: -XR, -X1, -X2, -X3, -X4


This mean, taking my 1300G2 (120-G2-1300-XR)as example, that I bought on EVGA store, is 10 years warranty even if I didn't had registered it.


----------



## shilka

Most are not aware of the fact that you need to register, there is probably a ton out there thinking they have 10 years when they dont.


----------



## PsYcHo29388

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Most are not aware of the fact that you need to register, there is probably a ton out there thinking they have 10 years when they don't.


People like my dad for sure. Then when he realizes he needs to register...

"Why the hell do I have to give them all my information just to get the full warranty, this is ridiculous, every company wants to know everything about you nowadays!"


----------



## Blaise170

It's not so much that they want your info, they just want to make sure secondhand buyers aren't getting the warranty.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont get the full 10 year warranty unless you register your unit and its serial number on the EVGA website with 30 days.
> Seems like a lot of people miss that and think they get the full 10 year warranty as soon as they buy it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Most are not aware of the fact that you need to register, there is probably a ton out there thinking they have 10 years when they dont.


I did check this when I bought mine and found there to be no reason to register in EU with -XR units.
1) shop invoice says 120 months warranty so for 10y the seller covers it unless they go out of business
2) as above, EVGA itself writes that registration is not required for -XR
3) nowhere in the brochure I got with PSU, which is only in foreign languages (not an issue for me, but for many it can be), does it say that one needs to register to get 10y warranty

And for those without invoice it's down to 3y.
There is an exception that you need to register within 30days but that to me seems only applicable to some selected old suffixes.

This is for EU.

Of course for US it can be very different.

---

Nice P2s finally, and in smaller enclosures so the extra free space inside the PSU is gone.


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Any plans for 550 / 650 / 750 and 850 watt T2 at some point?


We will have 750, 850 and 1000 T2 soon


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EVGA-JacobF*
> 
> We will have 750, 850 and 1000 T2 soon


Thats great news, i might pick a up T2 750 watt myself as i live in a country where power is very very expensive.
Any word on price for the new P2 and T2 models?

Hope there will be lower wattage models at some point future.


----------



## jacksp666

I have just registered because I bought a 750 W G2 last week and read what some people wrote here about warranty. I live in the EU.

I have bought the PSU from Ebay, which is listed as an (approved/authorized? re)seller during product registration, but I don't know if EVGA treats me as the second owner (the "original owner" should be the ebay seller) or not.

The PSU P/N suffix is -XR so in case I am considered as the original owner it should have a 10y warranty, otherwise only 3.

I have registered my product and saw that "warranty details" show that I have 3 year limited warranty starting from shipping date.

I have not sent the invoice yet since I still haven't received it from the seller, do you think this might be the reason?

Could someone shed some light on this matter?

Thanks!


----------



## Desolutional

EU goes by warranty advertised on the sellers website; if the website invoices you and advertises that the PSU has 10 years warranty, they are under a legal obligation to do so; the Americans however, _have_ to register for that to take effect. Trading laws and all that. The EU is a lot more strict with companies tactics, like stupid registration BS in order to have 10 Years (that's just stupid). *Of course if it's through eBay or a second hand reseller, then you _will_ have to register.

One of the reasons I love living in the EU, companies can't try to nickel and dime you with stupid extended warranty T&C. Not to mention that if you have the original invoice/receipt for your PSU, the reseller or EVGA must replace the faulty unit according to their advertised 10 Year Warranty. I.e. in the EU, the only reason to register is if you: don't have the receipt or invoice for you PSU or you have bought it from a second hand reseller like eBay. Receipts or proof of purchases are all you need in the EU to get that 10 years.


----------



## jacksp666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> EU goes by warranty advertised on the sellers website; if the website invoices you and advertises that the PSU has 10 years warranty, they are under a legal obligation to do so; the Americans however, _have_ to register for that to take effect. Trading laws and all that. The EU is a lot more strict with EVGA's stupid registration BS. *Of course if it's through eBay or a second hand reseller, then you _will_ have to register.
> 
> One of the reasons I love living in the EU, companies can't try to nickel and dime you with stupid extended warranty T&C. Not to mention that if you have the original invoice/receipt for your PSU, the reseller or EVGA must replace the faulty unit according to their advertised 10 Year Warranty. I.e. in the EU, the only reason to register is if you: don't have the receipt or invoice for you PSU or you have bought it from a second hand reseller like eBay.


Thanks.

The fact is that the seller says that I have 2y seller warranty (as per EU laws) plus manufacturer's warranty. That's why I would like to know whether EVGA will provide me with a 3y or 10y warranty.

I guess I'll see what happens when i send EVGA the invoice and in case I'll ask them directly to clarify the situation.


----------



## Desolutional

Yeah, that's probably the best cause of action. I know that warranty with second hand parts is usually non-transferable, but if the original owner didn't register it then I see why there is no reason you shouldn't be able to register it. After all, taking EVGA's stance "up to 30 days after purchase", well it is your first time buying the GPU from that person. This is why EVGA should just do warranty based on manufacture date and serial number, that way it's simple and easier to understand (RAM manufacturers do their warranty based on serial number). As for your last part, you're getting confused. The 2 year EU warranty doesn't actually stack. That 2 years is together with any manufacture warranty, which ever is longest.

So for EVGA "10 Years", your 2 year warranty would be for the first 2 years of the 10 year period. During the first 2 years, the reseller (who you bought from) is under legal obligation to replace a fault in your PSU. After 2 years, you have 8 years left of the 10 year EVGA one. Those 8 years are you having to do an RMA with EVGA instead. The reseller doesn't have to replace it after 2 years, they are no longer under EU regulation as 2 years have passed.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacksp666*
> 
> I have just registered because I bought a 750 W G2 last week and read what some people wrote here about warranty. I live in the EU.
> 
> I have bought the PSU from Ebay, which is listed as an (approved/authorized? re)seller during product registration, but I don't know if EVGA treats me as the second owner (the "original owner" should be the ebay seller) or not.
> 
> The PSU P/N suffix is -XR so in case I am considered as the original owner it should have a 10y warranty, otherwise only 3.
> 
> I have registered my product and saw that "warranty details" show that I have 3 year limited warranty starting from shipping date.
> 
> I have not sent the invoice yet since I still haven't received it from the seller, do you think this might be the reason?
> 
> Could someone shed some light on this matter?
> 
> Thanks!


You need the invoice.

I agree with the rest. Pretty much you get standard warranty for 2 years as required and the rest up to the 10 years is what ever warranty terms EVGA has defined which may be different from the normal terms for 2 years required warranty.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I currently have an AX860, and I'm powering two Titan X's and a 4770k. All are heavily overclocked, but my computer has restarted three times already, so I have had to lower the clocks and volts. I can get the 1300 G2 for $179.99 after a $40 dollar MIR. is that price good for the 1300 G2, or has it been lower before? I just ordered a CL SMA8, so now I can support a 200mm PSU. My 750D could only support close to a 160mm PSU because I have a bottom radiator mounted.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I currently have an AX860, and I'm powering two Titan X's and a 4770k. All are heavily overclocked, but my computer has restarted three times already, so I have had to lower the clocks and volts. I can get the 1300 G2 for $179.99 after a $40 dollar MIR. is that price good for the 1300 G2, or has it been lower before? I just ordered a CL SMA8, so now I can support a 200mm PSU. My 750D could only support close to a 160mm PSU because I have a bottom radiator mounted.


I would get the EVGA 1050 GS if you're sticking with the two Titan X.


----------



## phaseshift

Returned my 850 g2 for as 1000 watt p2 since I wanted to be sure my gtx 980ti SLI are fed properly. Do you guys think I should put it on eco for my 1000w p2?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I would get the EVGA 1050 GS if you're sticking with the two Titan X.


The 1300 G2 is only $20 more. I'll be running 14+ fans and two pumps.


----------



## Desolutional

Yeah, get the G2, but only if you're not bothered about idle noise. Mine seems to be the loudest component in my rig when all my fans and HDDs are sleeping.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I would get the EVGA 1050 GS if you're sticking with the two Titan X.The 1300 G2 is only $20 more. I'll be running 14+ fans and two pumps.


after a $40 MIR that is. I'd honestly pick around the 1000G2 and 1300G2, not that they're bad, but I'd take the 1050GS and 1200P2 over both.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift*
> 
> Returned my 850 g2 for as 1000 watt p2 since I wanted to be sure my gtx 980ti SLI are fed properly. Do you guys think I should put it on eco for my 1000w p2?


having run both two gtx970's and a R9 295X2 with a 4770k on the 1000P2, it's quiet either way imo.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> after a $40 MIR that is. I'd honestly pick around the 1000G2 and 1300G2, not that they're bad, but I'd take the 1050GS and 1200P2 over both.


The 1300 G2 is $219.99 with a $40 rebate. That's still a better deal, and if be backed by the extra wattage. 900w is recommended for SLI TX, but heavily overxloxked could easily surpass that


----------



## Arizonian

When I saw the G2 1300 for $160 (after rebate) I bought it. At the time I didn't even have a build in mind.







It's now in this one finally and ready for anything I throw at it.

Honestly, it was such a great deal I couldn't pass it up. JohnnyGuru *near platinum performance review*, price aside.


----------



## shilka

If any of the new G2/P2/T2 owners want to be added to the list post a picture of your unit and i will add you to the list (if you are not already on)


----------



## SteezyTN

Is $179.99 good for a 1300G2 after MIR? I may order it today. Then that should be good for my TX SLI setup.

Also, how quiet is the 1300G2?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is $179.99 good for a 1300G2 after MIR? I may order it today. Then that should be good for my TX SLI setup.
> 
> Also, how quiet is the 1300G2?


Yeah, that's about the same price I paid for mine from Ncix a while ago. Mine's very quiet but I don't put much load on it (~500w at the most) so I can't tell you how loud it would be when running TX's (not much louder I assume).


----------



## cnckane

Hi guys!

I just bought an EVGA 750 G2 PSU, my friend has a "similar" type only his is a 850 G2.
Today he cleaned up his PC and noticed some white "thing" (maybe glue ?) around the PSU's coil - he didn't remove the cover just saw it from the outside.
Sent me a picture and I compared it with my 750 G2 - which is completely clean.
Here is the picture:



He turned on eco-mode from the begining could something melted inside the PSU or is this completely normal ? We checked the review on techpowerup and the big coil is free from any white thing...
The PSU is functioning without issues, there isn't any sign of a faulty component.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cnckane*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I just bought an EVGA 750 G2 PSU, my friend has a "similar" type only his is a 850 G2.
> Today he cleaned up his PC and noticed some white "thing" (maybe glue ?) around the PSU's coil - he didn't remove the cover just saw it from the outside.
> Sent me a picture and I compared it with my 750 G2 - which is completely clean.
> Here is the picture:
> 
> evga.jpg 2872k .jpg file
> 
> 
> He turned on eco-mode from the begining could something melted inside the PSU or is this completely normal ? We checked the review on techpowerup and the big coil is free from any white thing...
> The PSU is functioning without issues, there isn't any sign of a faulty component.


OCN has a built in photo embed function if you are not aware? click on the picture icon you find it above the area where you type right next to the movie clip icon.
If you embed your picture in your post everyone dont have to download your picture.


----------



## JackCY

Lucky him that coil is even more secured than first batches had.
It's normal for coils to be glued/white silicone, stuff a PCB inside it, or even put them into a casing and glue them in but that's usually big and only done with smaller coils.

Paranoid maybe?








It's fine.


----------



## shilka

I have seen units that looks like they took a whole tube of glue and used everything in the whole tube just on that one part.


----------



## Blaise170

The glue is designed to dampen coil noise, it is fine.


----------



## jacksp666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> cut


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> cut


Thank you both for the answers.

I have finally received the invoice from the seller today and sent it straight away to EVGA. It still shows 3y warranty but I suppose (hope, really) that they need time to check the invoice and approve it before giving the remaining 7y.

I've seen some people saying that they went and bought a 1300W PSU just to make sure their SLI gets proper power supply, but some folks of a well known modding forum told me I could do a 980 SLI without issues. I went and bought the 750W G2 with the idea some day to upgrade the graphic card or do a SLI without having to buy a new PSU.

Please don't tell me I can't..


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacksp666*
> 
> Thank you both for the answers.
> 
> I have finally received the invoice from the seller today and sent it straight away to EVGA. It still shows 3y warranty but I suppose (hope, really) that they need time to check the invoice and approve it before giving the remaining 7y.
> 
> I've seen some people saying that they went and bought a 1300W PSU just to make sure their SLI gets proper power supply, but some folks of a well known modding forum told me I could do a 980 SLI without issues. I went and bought the 750W G2 with the idea some day to upgrade the graphic card or do a SLI without having to buy a new PSU.
> 
> Please don't tell me I can't..


750 watts is more then enough for two video cards unless you are going to volt mod the BIOS on them.
I have two GTX 970 cards on my G2 750 watt and the GTX 980 does not draw all that much more.

Unless you are going to volt mod or mess around with LN2 or add more then two cards you dont need more wattage end of story.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Hmm, maybe I should have pasted my thread into this thread itself. Custom fan adapter Questions (using Supernova 1300 G2)


----------



## EthanKing

Recently got an EVGA Supernova G2 750w. Completley overkill for my current rig but I willu be upgrading my Gpu soon, and this Psu gives enough headroom to even add a second Gpu in the future.

i5 4690K.
Msi r7 260x (soon to be gtx 970.)
Asus Z97-P.
4x2Gb Corsair Vengeance Ram.
Coolermaster Seidon 120v w/ Noctua NF-F12.
Corsair Carbide Spec-03.
Evga g2 750w.
2x 128Gb SkHynix SSD.
320Gb HDD.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacksp666*
> 
> I've seen some people saying that they went and bought a 1300W PSU just to make sure their SLI gets proper power supply, but some folks of a well known modding forum told me I could do a 980 SLI without issues. I went and bought the 750W G2 with the idea some day to upgrade the graphic card or do a SLI without having to buy a new PSU.
> 
> Please don't tell me I can't..


You can't because you will be donating one 980 to me








I will kindly spare you the trouble of finding out that it will won't work.


----------



## jacksp666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Recently got an EVGA Supernova G2 750w. Completley overkill for my current rig.


You said it yourself, it's always better to buy a component that lasts long instead of buying one each time. (Unless you can throw money away, in this case can you give some to JackCY? he's so cute!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You can't because you will be donating one 980 to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will kindly spare you the trouble of finding out that it will won't work.


EthanKing will help you with that









Anyway, does someone know a good way to fasten the PSU to the case internally? Would a cable tie work? I am using them to keep PSU cables away from fans atm.


----------



## JackCY

Internally? Just screw the PSU to the case, sure the long and heavy PSUs might put a bit of strain on the case if you were to throw it around but then you won't be throwing it around and the PSU just lies in the case








Sorry I hate football/soccer


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Internally? Just screw the PSU to the case, sure the long and heavy PSUs might put a bit of strain on the case if you were to throw it around but then you won't be throwing it around and the PSU just lies in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I hate football/soccer


Yeah screws are more than enough for securing them inside the case.


----------



## ptuga

Does anyone know if the G2 550w has the internals as the G2 650w?


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ptuga*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G2 550w has the internals as the G2 650w?


I would assume so, the manual is the same for both, and the SKUs are similar. I _really_ wouldn't go prodding around inside it though, messing about with the internals of a PSU never ends well... unless you're JonnyGuru.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ptuga*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G2 550w has the internals as the G2 650w?


They're both based on the leadex gold platform so I'd assume they have the same internals.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ptuga*
> 
> Does anyone know if the G2 550w has the internals as the G2 650w?


Should be the same platform, it goes now from 550-2000W, Gold-Titanium.


----------



## SteezyTN

Just ordered the 1300 G2 for my CaseLabs SMA8 build. That should really be sufficient for my TX SLI setup. Got it for $159.99 after a $40 MIR. However, I'm kind of hesitant because of the gold rating. My current AX860 is platinum, so would my energy bill raise do to the gold rating? I don't know too much about PSU's.


----------



## jacksp666

Many people told me that G2 PSUs could have easily gotten Platinum but they didn't because they are some points below the required amount to get it.

I wouldn't bother much about it.


----------



## shilka

At load its so little that its not going to matter unless you run the system 100% 24/7.
But you are not going to get anywhere near gold levels efficiency in ilde because you bought way too much wattage.

80 plus does not have any kind of standards for efficiency below 20% loads so the efficiency is much lower the less you use.
If you had bought the 850 watt G2 you would have gotten a lot better efficiency in ilde.


----------



## JackCY

Get 1200 P2 if you want platinum. I don't know why people get the 1000 and 1300 G2 that lack eco mode.
Will you notice the 2% difference, no unless your computer electric bill is insane.
2xTitan X? Shouldn't 850 G2/P2 do the job just fine?

Saw 2xFury X yesterday, 400W gaming, 850W Furmark, insane scaling at 4k if the tests aren't manipulated.
1300W is more like 4xGPU.


----------



## shilka

There is no need to get anywhere near that much wattage if he is not going to have more then one or two video cards or is going to volt mod them.
Hell you can power a whole system with a single video card in it with the new 550 watt G2, 750-850 watt if you have a system with two video cards in it.

1000+ watts units are meant for systems running more then 2 video cards.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> There is no need to get anywhere near that much wattage if he is not going to have more then one or two video cards or is going to volt mod them.
> Hell you can power a whole system with a single video card in it with the new 550 watt G2, 750-850 watt if you have a system with two video cards in it.
> 
> 1000+ watts units are meant for systems running more then 2 video cards.


Better to buy a big PSU to start off with than to buy a small one, then have to spend more in the long run if you ever feel like upgrading to a heavy platform like X99 and deciding to SLI/CFX. Especially if said PSU lasts you 10 years, it is most certainly a great RoI. Most PSUs are most efficient and quiet at 50% load, and it's safer to run a PSU at 50% vs. loading it to near max capacity (e.g. SLIing 980Tis and OCing them on a 850W PSU). That extra $70 or so you'll spend on a 1000+W PSU is not so much over the course of 10 years, especially with a reliable brand like Superflower.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Better to buy a big PSU to start off with than to buy a small one, then have to spend more in the long run if you ever feel like upgrading to a heavy platform like X99 and deciding to SLI/CFX. Especially if said PSU lasts you 10 years, it is most certainly a great RoI. Most PSUs are most efficient and quiet at 50% load, and it's safer to run a PSU at 50% vs. loading it to near max capacity (e.g. SLIing 980Tis and OCing them on a 850W PSU). That extra $70 or so you'll spend on a 1000+W PSU is not so much over the course of 10 years, especially with a reliable brand like Superflower.


There is no need to buy more watttage then you know you are going to need.

If you know for a fact you are never going to run 3 video cards why in the hell would you buy wattage for it? thats just stupid and a waste of money.
And new hardware use less and less power which means power draws are going down not up.

So no its stupid and a waste of money both to begin with and i the long run to buy way more wattage then you are ever going to need.
And its also a huge myth PSU´s will degrade over time or that they will degrade if you load it higher then 70%
A message to the community on enthusiast power supplies

And besides who uses the max of their machine 24/7 365 days a year? even when gaming the machine is not loaded 100% so your own point is moot as your system is not going to be anywhere near max load most of the time.
All that nonsense with buying more wattage is mass hysteria thats what it is.


----------



## Desolutional

I'm saying, with a 10 years warranty, and the 1000+W PSUs being cheaper than a 500GB SSD drive, why wouldn't you pay a little extra for the convenience. A 1300W G2 will last you 10 years. _10 years_. You will make up that cash easily over the span of 10 years. The only reason not to futureproof a PSU is if your PC case is too small. Most ATX cases should be able to house a 1300W G2 nowadays though. That's $19.20 a year, far cheaper than a subscription to Final Fantasy or your favourite magazine. Whilst hardware is getting more power efficient, it's not going to hit mobile levels anytime soon, if anything we'll see a reduction of ~33% in the next decade or so; you can either reduce power consumption, or increase performance. You can do both, but you have to balance it out carefully. When people buy a new CPU or GPU, they want more power, not power efficiency.

I don't think it's stupid to futureproof appropriately. You're looking a difference of $53 moving up from a 850W G2 to a 1300W G2. That's petty cash.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> I'm saying, with a 10 years warranty, and the 1000+W PSUs being cheaper than a 500GB SSD drive, why wouldn't you pay a little extra for the convenience. A 1300W G2 will last you 10 years. _10 years_. You will make up that cash easily over the span of 10 years. The only reason not to futureproof a PSU is if your case is too small. Most ATX cases should be able to house a 1300W G2 nowadays though.


Let me ask you this why would you? if you dont need it why spend the money in the first place? its wastefull both to your wallet and secondly to the environment becasue you are using more power.
I dont care if you could get the 1600 watt G2 for only $25 more then 750 watt if i knew i was never going to need it i would not spend the money in the first place, i am too cheap for that and i would rather use the money on something that would actually be usefull instead.
And again power draws are going DOWN not up so you will need less power for the same amount of CPU/GPU power.

Besides when you buy a well made PSU its not going blow up in a supernova of sparks and flames when you load it higher then 70% its made to do with rated wattage for years and can often do more.
Antec had a 1200 watt unit some years ago that was so well made that it could do 2000 watts without taking any damage what so ever and it stayed within ATX specifications the whole time.

If it can do 2000 watts without any problems it sure as hell can do 1200 watt 24/7 for years without any problems.
Again its a problem that most dont understand that as long as you buy a well made PSU it can do what it says on the box and it can do that for YEARS without any problems, all that nonsense with i need to buy more wattage becasue my PSU is going to blow up when it hits 70% load or higher or it will degrade and lose wattage is a myth and its mass hysteria.

Hell i know how well the Antec High Current Pro Platinum is and its so good that i would not have any problems loading it to 100% as i know it can take it.
Its not a tinker toy made of cheap plastic you buy its a well made pieces of electronics so it can take whatever you throw at it and then some (unless its junk).

To quote Darth Varder i find your lack of faith disturbing.


Edit: Oh i almost forgot you dont actually get a 10 year warranty if you live in the US, not unless you register your PSU on the EVGA website with 30 days.


----------



## Desolutional

Hmm, I didn't mean get a 1000+ one because "OMG, PSU go boom", but rather because it's only a small bump up in cash. Each to their own though. The same could be said about cars. Why buy a 7.0L Vette when a 2.0L Golf would do you just fine (totally ignoring physics and just assuming more litres = more power)?


----------



## shilka

A car is not a PSU so you cant really compare the two.
Its also a major problem that everyone think their PC hardware uses far more power then it does, your average higher end gaming rig with a single video card dont draw more then 250-350 watts.

Add another card and you are still only looking 500-600 watts and thats WITH overclocks on both CPU/RAM and GPU.
So why the hell would you buy a 1300 watt PSU for that? its a waste of money for the extra wattage and its a waste of money becasue you get less efficiency out it which means more money on your power bill.
Sure 150-250 watts more then you need makes sense but 700 watts more? thats just overkill.

In the US and other place where power is dirt cheap sure that does not all that much, but when you live in a place where power cost you as much as 15 times more it starts to matter a whole lot more.
I am actually thinking about if it would cost me less on my bill to move to the new 650 watt P2, so far the answer is i could save money by doing that but i would take a while to earn back what i spend on the P2.

Not sure its worth it all the trouble.

Edit: i dont know what you pay for power in the UK but my bill is around £190 every 3 months.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> I'm saying, with a 10 years warranty, and the 1000+W PSUs being cheaper than a 500GB SSD drive, why wouldn't you pay a little extra for the convenience. A 1300W G2 will last you 10 years. _10 years_. You will make up that cash easily over the span of 10 years. The only reason not to futureproof a PSU is if your PC case is too small. Most ATX cases should be able to house a 1300W G2 nowadays though. That's $19.20 a year, far cheaper than a subscription to Final Fantasy or your favourite magazine. Whilst hardware is getting more power efficient, it's not going to hit mobile levels anytime soon, if anything we'll see a reduction of ~33% in the next decade or so; you can either reduce power consumption, or increase performance. You can do both, but you have to balance it out carefully. When people buy a new CPU or GPU, they want more power, not power efficiency.
> 
> I don't think it's stupid to futureproof appropriately. You're looking a difference of $53 moving up from a 850W G2 to a 1300W G2. That's petty cash.


...futureproof... stopped reading








20$ a year that's 40 beers a year.
Some people do want better power efficiency, those that realize the HW they get is powerful enough for what they do and they have no need for the power hungry enthusiast HW.
$53 petty cash lol. I guess everyone has a different view of money.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I guess it's the same thing as why would you buy a Corvette when a Ford Fiesta will do the job of driving you to work safely for much less. Some people can't help it, bigger more expensive is "better" even when it's actually worse at the intended purpose/work to be done.
Why buy a diesel generator when you can buy a power plant right?








...


----------



## Desolutional

I've never seen a massive difference in efficiency at low loads of 100W. My wall meter shows 130W consumption, so I I'm losing 30W at low loads with my 1300 G2. I was losing ~25W with my old 650W G2 at low loads. I can't idle at lower than 100W (check my sig, I use all the C-States and power saving techniques, including ASPM and HIPM/DIPM, as well as passive cooling when case temps are stable). I am one for idle power efficiency, yet my old 650 G2 doesn't seem to be massively more efficient than my new 1300 G2. I bought the 650 G2 back in early 2015, and I doubt it was a "dud" PSU. It did it's job very well for the time I had it and now it is in a friends rig.

For high loads of ~550W, I was losing 70W with my 650 G2, and at loads of 550W on the 1300 G2, I'm losing 60W. That doesn't make sense if efficiency is supposed to be worse with a 1300W G2. My DC watts were only a tad higher than my AC watts, with a loss equivalent to a few eco lightbulbs. My ambients are fairly stable at 25C, so they shouldn't be affecting my PSU at all. I think maybe for other brands of Gold 80+ PSU, efficiency does make a difference, but with the G2s, in my experience, I've always had 80% efficiency no matter what the wattage. My colleague has an AMD rig with a 750 G2 in, I'll try to get him to check his power consumption with a wall meter as well.

TL;DR: My 1300 G2 at "realistic" loads has identical efficiency based on DC to AC wattage to my 650 G2. Efficiency is almost identical.

As for the money side, if $53 is hard to come by, I most certainly wouldn't be spending my time building a gaming rig, I'd be out there trying to fix things up for myself. Heck, I'd be using a cheap laptop, not a power hungry gaming rig. When I was starting off with work, I didn't even have a rig. I only invested into one after income was stable. I'd be really focusing on putting food one the table as opposed to gaming if money was an issue.


----------



## shilka

Note that the number you get from the wall if not actually the amount of power your system use.
You need to take the efficiency of your PSU off the number you get from the wall.

Dont know if you took the efficiency off or not on those numbers.


----------



## Desolutional

Well the point is, by powering identical loads, my rig used similar levels of power though the wall socket under identical conditions. I didn't upgrade any hardware or anything. Literally just swapped the PSUs out and tested wall power draw for piece of mind, to ensure I'm not being fobbed off. Even accounting for any potential loss due to inaccuracy in power measurement equipment, the difference is quite possibly 20W at _most_ for low loads, and at 550W loads (stress test), the difference is negligible. As for idling, I have my system enter sleep after an hour anyway, so i.e. a loss of 20W over an hour shouldn't be too disastrous, equivalent to forgetting to turn off a light for an hour, or watching TV for 15 minutes. For idle tasks such as downloading or other things with low power draw, I'd suggest using a cheap windows tablet or a phone if possible. With Steam games you'd have to leave the rig on unfortunately (I don't see why Valve can't offer "backup" versions of games you can download manually and install using Steams "backup and restore" feature).

At the end of the day, you need to plan ahead thoroughly if you're going to go with a "fitting" PSU. If you definitely know, and you're prepared to accept the limitations, by all means save the cash and go for a 750W PSU. Spend it on snacks or something. However, for peace of mind and almost zero limitations, a 1000+ PSU is good if you ever decide to keep the PSU and completely upgrade the whole rig, SLI et. al. I feel for the USA as their warranty laws are very limited, but for the EU, the 10 year warranty (without having to register) is a massive boon, one which will ensure EVGA keep their customers (albeit odd as they'd be losing money over the long term). I know I won't be upgrading my 1300 G2 for 10 years, and I doubt you'll change your 750 G2 for 10 years either. Just making a point to say that a bigger PSU doesn't necessarily have to be cost prohibitive (as opposed to a 1600W PSU, now those are bloody expensive).

Also I'd wish a PSA for EVGA's stupid USA policy would be put up over the web. It is ridiculous that you have to register within 30 days as opposed to within 90 days. Many people won't even discover this thread until it's too late.


----------



## wholeeo

So my 980 Ti's came with 50% off coupons for pretty much any EVGA PSU. I surely don't need a new PSU but damn, 50% off is hard to pass up on.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> So my 980 Ti's came with 50% off coupons for pretty much any EVGA PSU. I surely don't need a new PSU but damn, 50% off is hard to pass up on.


You could buy one and keep it as an extra or one if you want to make another new system later.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You could buy one and keep it as an extra or one if you want to make another new system later.


Yeah, I could also buy one and sell my current unit. There would be very little out of pocket costs afterwards.


----------



## shilka

*


----------



## Blaise170

His rig says HX1000i so 1000W.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> His rig says HX1000i so 1000W.










Yup, HX1000i


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> So my 980 Ti's came with 50% off coupons for pretty much any EVGA PSU. I surely don't need a new PSU but damn, 50% off is hard to pass up on.


Which card and where did you buy it from? That's a great deal.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Which card and where did you buy it from? That's a great deal.


The 980 SC Ti, Reference Cooler. They must have started packaging them together recently because I purchased the same type of cards two or so weeks ago and the coupon wasn't included.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> At load its so little that its not going to matter unless you run the system 100% 24/7.
> But you are not going to get anywhere near gold levels efficiency in ilde because you bought way too much wattage.
> 
> 80 plus does not have any kind of standards for efficiency below 20% loads so the efficiency is much lower the less you use.
> If you had bought the 850 watt G2 you would have gotten a lot better efficiency in ilde.


I'm going 1300 because I get restarts on my AX860. I'm planning on flashing my Titan x's and going above the locked voltage. I have my 4770k at 1.3v and I'll be running two pumps and 15 fans. Are you saying the efficiency will actually be lower, and eventually cost more in long term?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm going 1300 because I get restarts on my AX860. I'm planning on flashing my Titan x's and going above the locked voltage. I have my 4770k at 1.3v and I'll be running two pumps and 15 fans. Are you saying the efficiency will actually be lower, and eventually cost more in long term?


I said efficiency is going to be lower at lower loads, sure its not huge amounts of lower efficiency but lower is still lower.
With the prices on power in the US its maybe $10-20 a year or something, but thats still at least $50 if you keep it for 5 years and $100 if you keep it for 10 years, and those are the low numbers they could be twice that (depens on the price per kilo watt in your area and the amount you use and so on).

If you then live in a place where power could cost you 3 times as much or more (like i do) you are now looking at $300-600 over 5 years or $600-1200 over 10 years.
I dont think its funny to be throwing $300 or even 4 times that much away (these are not 100% precise numbers so they might be off a little bit)

Yes power is dirt cheap in the US so you guys from the US maybe dont care about efficiency at lower loads but once you start paying 2-4 time or even more over time i bet you would start to care.

I had a Corsair AX1200 before (got it dirt cheap and it was before i knew anything about efficiency) after i bought my G2 750 watt i did see a $15-25 drop on my bill every 3 months, thats $60-100 lower for a year and since i bought it for $120 it will take me less then 2 years to get that money back.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well the point is, by powering identical loads, my rig used similar levels of power though the wall socket under identical conditions. I didn't upgrade any hardware or anything. Literally just swapped the PSUs out and tested wall power draw for piece of mind, to ensure I'm not being fobbed off. Even accounting for any potential loss due to inaccuracy in power measurement equipment, the difference is quite possibly 20W at _most_ for low loads, and at 550W loads (stress test), the difference is negligible. As for idling, I have my system enter sleep after an hour anyway, so i.e. a loss of 20W over an hour shouldn't be too disastrous, equivalent to forgetting to turn off a light for an hour, or watching TV for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> For idle tasks such as downloading or other things with low power draw, I'd suggest using a cheap windows tablet or a phone if possible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> With Steam games you'd have to leave the rig on unfortunately (I don't see why Valve can't offer "backup" versions of games you can download manually and install using Steams "backup and restore" feature).
> 
> At the end of the day, you need to plan ahead thoroughly if you're going to go with a "fitting" PSU. If you definitely know, and you're prepared to accept the limitations, by all means save the cash and go for a 750W PSU. Spend it on snacks or something. However, for peace of mind and almost zero limitations, a 1000+ PSU is good if you ever decide to keep the PSU and completely upgrade the whole rig, SLI et. al. I feel for the USA as their warranty laws are very limited, but for the EU, the 10 year warranty (without having to register) is a massive boon, one which will ensure EVGA keep their customers (albeit odd as they'd be losing money over the long term). I know I won't be upgrading my 1300 G2 for 10 years, and I doubt you'll change your 750 G2 for 10 years either. Just making a point to say that a bigger PSU doesn't necessarily have to be cost prohibitive (as opposed to a 1600W PSU, now those are bloody expensive).
> 
> Also I'd wish a PSA for EVGA's stupid USA policy would be put up over the web. It is ridiculous that you have to register within 30 days as opposed to within 90 days. Many people won't even discover this thread until it's too late
> 
> 
> .


just *NO*.

personally and i am sure i'll have much some agreement, web browsing, checking email and esp shopping and paying bills online is a horrible experience on such a small medium. also there is _no way i am going to spend more money for a tablet or better phone to avoid saving less money._ and that's not mentioning hooking up to a TV to watch movies - which i just did.









you have a well thought out instance of PSU usage expect for lower load usage and that is a not great comprise. unless you turn off the rig then one idles the most, uses low load second and gaming/high power usage last.

again, though you have a well thought out reason for what you have for your usage but the tablet suggest which could be fine for you is . . .ick.

meh. i didn't intend to get into a debate but just felt the need to express my POV - its all good, amirite?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I had a Corsair AX1200 before (got it dirt cheap and it was before i knew anything about efficiency) after i bought my G2 750 watt i did see a $15-25 drop on my bill every 3 months, thats $60-100 lower for a year and since i bought it for $120 it will take me less then 2 years to get that money back.


would I be better of with the 1000G2 then or even the 1000 Platinum one. Honestly, $10-20 a year is really nothing.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

guys.... just get the new superflower solar/wind powered thermo nuclear warhead nitrous turbo wood paper super speed low yield mighty mouse power plant siphoning recycled gods breath power 50,000w unobtanium2 - for all your power needs.... it was reviewed by ocjohnnytechbagginspowernetspotredtomrog to be the top ten buys of all time in any category beating out religious books and pron magazine total sales of all time COMBINED... then you can power your power while you power puff girls by the power of grayskull.

AND...

it makes a banging blended mixed drink.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> would I be better of with the 1000G2 then or even the 1000 Platinum one. Honestly, $10-20 a year is really nothing.


Sure $10-20 a year is not much i agree but think of it in years and now its $50-100 and then its another matter.

I dont know the Titan X well enough to say that a 1000 watt is enough for two of them under water and OC, so i cant honesty say what you need.
Just keep the 1300 watt if you live in the US its going to take you forever to save the same amount in power as you will spend extra on getting a P2.

The G2 1300 watt is $195 on newgg right now and $155 if you have a rebate card, the P2 is $255 and $220 after rebate, its going to take you at least 6 years or more to save those $60.
If the P2 was only $10-20 more then maybe it would have made sense.

Be glad you live in a place where power is dirt cheap once you start paying 3 or more times you will start to care.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdFusion 13*
> 
> guys.... just get the new superflower solar/wind powered thermo nuclear warhead nitrous turbo wood paper super speed low yield mighty mouse power plant siphoning recycled gods breath power 50,000w unobtanium2 - for all your power needs.... it was reviewed by ocjohnnytechbagginspowernetspotredtomrog to be the top ten buys of all time in any category beating out religious books and pron magazine total sales of all time COMBINED... then you can power your power while you power puff girls by the power of grayskull.
> 
> AND...
> 
> it makes a banging blended mixed drink.


thats yesterdayt's tech. today is the release of the superflower solar/wind powered thermo nuclear warhead nitrous turbo wood paper super speed low yield mighty mouse power plant siphoning recycled gods breath power 500,000w unobtanium*3*

and

it gives . .physical gratification.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

^^ this guy lmao


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> thats yesterdayt's tech. today is the release of the superflower solar/wind powered thermo nuclear warhead nitrous turbo wood paper super speed low yield mighty mouse power plant siphoning recycled gods breath power 500,000w unobtanium*3*
> 
> and
> 
> it gives . .physical gratification.


Makes as much sense as this


----------



## Desolutional

Are you high or something?









But seriously, you ain't gonna lose too much energy with a larger PSU assuming it's the same efficiency, unless you run your rig 24/7! I'll probably get round to drawing up some charts and calculations some day.


----------



## looniam

toasters cause FIRES!


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Are you high or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, you ain't gonna lose too much energy with a larger PSU assuming it's the same efficiency, unless you run your rig 24/7! I'll probably get round to drawing up some charts and calculations some day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Sure $10-20 a year is not much i agree but think of it in years and now its $50-100 and then its another matter.
> 
> I dont know the Titan X well enough to say that a 1000 watt is enough for two of them under water and OC, so i cant honesty say what you need.
> Just keep the 1300 watt if you live in the US its going to take you forever to save the same amount in power as you will spend extra on getting a P2.
> 
> The G2 1300 watt is $195 on newgg right now and $155 if you have a rebate card, the P2 is $255 and $220 after rebate, its going to take you at least 6 years or more to save those $60.
> If the P2 was only $10-20 more then maybe it would have made sense.
> 
> Be glad you live in a place where power is dirt cheap once you start paying 3 or more times you will start to care.


I got the 1300G2 for $149.99 after rebates and discounts. I'll just keep the 1300.

I'm a college student, so the only time my PC will be on is like an hour a day for school work and maybe 5 hours a week for gaming.

I would stick with my AX860 but since I got this big case and more radiators than I need, I want to run my Titans to the max. The 860 has restarted almost 3 times when I have my GPU's at 1443 MHz. I've had to lower them voltages and everything just to keep it from restarting


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm a college student, so the only time my PC will be on is like an hour a day for school work and maybe 5 hours a week for gaming.
> 
> I would stick with my AX860 but since I got this big case and more radiators than I need, I want to run my Titans to the max. The 860 has restarted almost 3 times when I have my GPU's at 1443 MHz. I've had to lower them voltages and everything just to keep it from restarting


Smart man.







Did you register the 10 year warranty too?

Also a college student with SLI TITAN Xs, you lucky git.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Smart man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you register the 10 year warranty too?
> 
> Also a college student with SLI TITAN Xs, you lucky git.


I went WAY overkill with the Titans. But I won't be upgrading for at least 3-5 years now. If I was just taking general Ed, I would be playing a lot more games than I am now. I'm currently taking my pre-reqs for the nursing program at my college, so I need all the A's I can get in my anatomy and physiology courses.

As for the warranty, I just ordered it yesterday, so I probably won't receive it for at least a week. I'll register it once it is delivered.!


----------



## PureBlackFire

Why you don't trust me steezy? Told you 1050GS or 1200P2. They are a better all around package than the 1000/1300G2.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Are you high or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously, you ain't gonna lose too much energy with a larger PSU assuming it's the same efficiency, unless you run your rig 24/7! I'll probably get round to drawing up some charts and calculations some day.


first no, i am drug free for about a decade now.









second yes, i run my rig 24/7.

and even having the same efficiency, different wattages will have to adjust the efficiency curve. as an example from:
Debunking Power Supply Myths yeah this topic is pretty old.

take a look at *SYSTEM TWO* on a 900 watt PSU:


now the same system on 520 to 620 watt PSUs:


which is better for idle, low and high usage?

there is even an article from the former PSU editor here on OCN:
http://www.overclock.net/t/872013/50-load-myth/0_50

granted that 1300 G2 has some phenomenal efficiency:



you actually GAINED 1.5% @ ~520 watts compared to the 650 G2



but you're throwing out everything from idle to low load usage - the majority.

e:
typos


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Why you don't trust me steezy? Told you 1050GS or 1200P2. They are a better all around package than the 1000/1300G2.


Because I won't spend over $200 for a PSU when I can't get 1300w for $150.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> granted that 1300 G2 has some phenomenal efficiency


1300 G2 @ 264.2W = loses 30.9W
650 G2 @ 133.9W loses 18.3W

Hmm, I'm guess that 1300 G2 at 133.9W will lose 35W as an overestimate, so 35W - 18.3W = 16.7W. The 1300 G2 loses an extra 16.7W at low load vs. the 650 G2; let's call it 20W for simplicity (even more overestimating). That's essentially the same as a mobile phone charger or a light bulb. 20W of wasted energy is 175.32kWh if you leave it on 24/7 idling for a *whole year*. If you idle for 4 hours per day for a *whole year* that is 29.22kWh. Not sure how that would translate to your regional costs? How much is a kWh over there anyway?

If you want to find out cost per day, just divide the kWh thingys by 365.25. Now using a median kWh cost for the UK based on a 4 hour idling period (fair estimate for daily usage?), that would cost in a year, £2.73 (ex. VAT). So, over 10 years, it would waste £27 (ex. VAT) if you just leave it idling 4 hours a day. This is not taking into account the efficiency _gained_ at high loads (you'll be saving money there). For comparasions sake, £27 is less than an average triple A game, or a single meal at a fancy restaurant. At the end of the day, it ain't _that_ bad? With VAT included: 1 year = £3.28, 10 years = £32.76

*Yeah I like doing maths, heh.

Also: £1 = $1.56, $1 = £0.64 ; do some maths with me.









I'll do New York for you ($0.181): 4 hours per day for a year = $5.29, 10 years = $52.89. Translated to GBP, year = £3.39, 10 years = £33.86. Main power saving exercises range from trading in plasma TVs to LED panels, and switching to a more efficient refrigerator. Those will have a better impact on power consumption (hell, our plasmas took up 200W at the socket, each).


----------



## shilka

never mind


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Last I checked, in the states it's about .7-.11 cents per kWh depending on your area.

Edit: unless you live in a highly dense populated area/city.


----------



## JackCY

It is not negligible especially when the cost of electricity with tax is at the levels where it is in DK.
The calculation is a little more complex and has to be done for a specific usage. Unless one runs a server loaded with a few virtual servers on it, only plays games but doesn't web browse then most of the usage is idle. And that's where most of the loss from having an oversized PSU comes. What specific numbers of savings or loss you get depends on your usage. For the DK prices close to 40 US cents, I used 37-38, it is worth considering to buy a smaller more efficient PSU rather than a large inefficient one. Not only do you save money on PSU but also on electric bill in a way that you will notice over time.

US and efficiency... they never care. Low prices, low voltage, never bothered them at consumer market level.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> 1300 G2 @ 264.2W = loses 30.9W
> 650 G2 @ 133.9W loses 18.3W
> 
> Hmm, I'm guess that 1300 G2 at 133.9Wwill lose 35W as an overestimate, so 35W - 18.3W = 16.7W. *The 1300 G2 loses an extra 16.7W at low load vs. the 650 G2*; let's call it 20W for simplicity (even more overestimating).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That's essentially the same as a mobile phone charger or a light bulb. 20W of wasted energy is 175.32kWh if you leave it on 24/7 idling for a *whole year*. If you idle for 4 hours per day for a *whole year* that is 29.22kWh. Not sure how that would translate to your regional costs? How much is a kWh over there anyway?
> 
> If you want to find out cost per day, just divide the kWh thingys by 365.25. Now using a median kWh cost for the UK based on a 4 hour idling period (fair estimate for daily usage?), that would cost in a year, £2.73 (ex. VAT). So, over 10 years, it would waste £27 (ex. VAT) if you just leave it idling 4 hours a day. This is not taking into account the efficiency _gained_ at high loads (you'll be saving money there). For comparasions sake, £27 is less than an average triple A game, or a single meal at a fancy restaurant. At the end of the day, it ain't _that_ bad? With VAT included: 1 year = £3.28, 10 years = £32.76
> 
> *Yeah I like doing maths, heh.
> 
> Also: £1 = $1.56, $1 = £0.64 ; do some maths with me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do New York for you ($0.181): 4 hours per day for a year = $5.29, 10 years = $52.89. Translated to GBP, year = £3.39, 10 years = £33.86. Main power saving exercises range from trading in plasma TVs to LED panels, and switching to a more efficient refrigerator. Those will have a better impact on power consumption (hell, our plasmas took up 200W at the socket, each).


*NOPE!*
shame on me for not giving you the review links:
Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 650W
Reviews - EVGA Supernova G2 1300W

and JG did a low load test ~132 watts for the 1300 G2:

compared to ~134 load on the 650 G2 in cold testing:


it's actually 0.06% BETTER than the 650 G2










i'll concede, that 1300 G2 is just not fair.


----------



## shilka

I might pick up a T2 if they come down low enough in wattage and the price is not ridiculous.
Not sure if its worth getting a T2 or not, but i was thinking about dropping to upgrade this rig i have now and build a whole new one from the ground up minus the HDD´s.

Last time i bought a motherboard CPU and RAM was in 2012 no its not really brand new anymore, its not going to be this year as i got bills everywhere i need to pay.


----------



## JackCY

Average Haswell system idles on 60-80W with dGPU. Not 130W, a double of it. The efficiency measurements are +-1% at minimum, just because one PSU is 1% better doesn't mean all the samples during all measurements are haha. Gold Leadex is still gold Leadex and lower wattage will have better eff. at lower loads. You have to look into the bracket below 100W, that's where the difference is and eff. plummets to 80% etc.
Sure it would be nice if Gold meant 90% at 50W, not only at 50%.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll concede, that 1300 G2 is just not fair.


Lol, I could hug you right now.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll concede, that 1300 G2 is just not fair.


what exactly do you mean by not fair? Did I make a good decision for getting the 1300G2 over my AX860?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll concede, that 1300 G2 is just not fair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what exactly do you mean by not fair? Did I make a good decision for getting the 1300G2 over my AX860?
Click to expand...

you did great considering most gold units drop 3%+ efficiency under 20% load; bronze units even more. according to jonnyguru's results the 1300 G2 dropped just 2% putting it better than @ 100% load.

imo it's a freak!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Lol, I could hug you right now.


i feel the love on this side of the pond.


----------



## Artah

Hi guys, can I join the club? I have 6 EVGA PSUs at the moment ranging from 1000 to 1600. On my main rig I have a 1200P2 and was thinking of upgrading to the 1600 T2. I only have two titan x at the moment in a custom loop rig but was thinking I'll need the 1600 when I can afford to burn money for 2 more cards when the prices come down. My question for you people that know power supplies and overclocking CPU/GPUs is that will I benefit in anyway if I upgrade to that 1600 now with two titan x or should I sell off that 1600? I have not opened the box for the 1600 and was hoping to get some guidance from people with vast experience with PSU quality/Overclocking. I don't overclock with liquid nitrogen but I do overclock closer to the upper ends. Any good info's are appreciated!


----------



## shilka

You can be added to the owners list if you show a picture or more of your units.


----------



## JackCY

Efficiency at 40-100W / 60W:

Super Flower Leadex
SFL P 2000 - 75.81% / 74.49%
SFL G 1600 - 76.56% / 75.42%
SFL G 1300 - 82.26% / 82.11%
SFL P 1200 - 82.50% / 83.34%
SFL G 850 - 82.69% / 82.20%
SFL G 750 - 84.00% / 83.26%

Cooler Master V
CMV P 1200 - 81.30% / 80.73%
CMV G 750 - 84.54% / 84.25%
CMV G 550 - 90.71% / 90.72%

Corsair RMi
CRM G 1000i - 84.77% / 84.39%

Seasonic G
SSG G 550v1 - 83.91% / 83.41%
SSG G 550v2 - 84.51% / 84.00%

Andyson N
ANN T 700 - 87.55% / 86.70%


----------



## Artah

Here is one.


----------



## shilka

I need to be able to see the wattage it has or you need to tell me as i cant much on that picture.
I can see 00 so its either a 1000/1200 or 1600.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I need to be able to see the wattage it has or you need to tell me as i cant much on that picture.
> I can see 00 so its either a 1000/1200 or 1600.


I actually have all 3. We have 5 rigs in the house.

Edit: I see you have it organized on who's got what on the OP.

1. 1x G1 1000 (I guess this one doesn't count)
2. 2x G2 1000
3. 1x P2 1200
4. 1x T2 1600


----------



## shilka

Pictures please otherwise you wont be added to the list(s).
You already showed one but i cant tell which one as all i can see is P2 and 00.


----------



## SteezyTN

Would I be better off with the 1200 P2 over the 1300 G2? I can get the 1200 P2 for $199.99 after a $35 MIR.


----------



## Synik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Would I be better off with the 1200 P2 over the 1300 G2? I can get the 1200 P2 for $199.99 after a $35 MIR.


I have seen complaints on the loudness of the 1300W fan. If you can get the 1200P2 i think that is better. I tried to get one too but not in stock thru evga. Had to get the 1600W since I didn't want to deal with noise issues.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synik*
> 
> I have seen complaints on the loudness of the 1300W fan. If you can get the 1200P2 i think that is better. I tried to get one too but not in stock thru evga. Had to get the 1600W since I didn't want to deal with noise issues.


If the quietness isn't to my expectations, I'll be sending it back. I may pick up the 1200 P2


----------



## JackCY

You can see the fan profiles in reviews. It's loud as any other fan/PSU at those rpms.
If you are going to blast 1000W, then hello no consumer PC PSU will run quiet at 1kW load, it has to dump that excess 100W somewhere in heat. Don't expect quiet computing when consuming a lot of power.

1000/1300 G2 doesn't have hybrid mode. 1200 P2 does have. SF 1000/1300W has hybrid too.


----------



## Icydead

Have anyone else noticed how they changed packaging? Left one was bought in november 2014, right one on Thursday.


I wonder if anything else was changed. Haven't unpacked it yet.


----------



## PsYcHo29388

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icydead*
> 
> Have anyone else noticed how they changed packaging? Left one was bought in november 2014, right one on Thursday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if anything else was changed. Haven't unpacked it yet.


My guess is that they just started using cheaper materials to make the packaging, which includes leaving out the plastic handle. I could be wrong though, I'm just making an assumption based on what I see in the picture.


----------



## JackCY

Looks the same to me. Don't need a handle, might even be sealed under the plastic hidden from the eyes in the picture.
If they change the HW for worse well it's their coffin they are putting a nail into. I highly doubt that is the case though.


----------



## Icydead

No the plastic handle is there but the box is sealed in that plastic film so you can't see it. But anyway, the material looks and feels same to me and the new style (text placement) of the front side now matches the style of their new 650/750/850 P2 boxes actually:

I unpacked it and the first difference I noticed was a little different and more sexy "detection tool" (that is what is written on it) for a 24pin cable - you know, that fake 24pin "slot" used for testing the psu. No noticable difference in cables, the bag for cables is not so thick as was before and that is about it. I haven't looked on the psu yet as I will be installing it on Thursday and I didn't want to take it out of the bag yet.


----------



## t1337dude

So I just installed an EVGA SuperNova G2 a few days ago because my new GTX 980 Ti wasn't playing along with my Corsair HX650. I love everything about it....except that it's way too loud (particularly during idle). It sounds twice as loud as the pump of my Swiftech H240-X, which is already a bit louder than I like (and is usually the loudest component in my PC until I installed the PSU). I have to really turn up the volume on my speakers to mask it - and even then, I can still hear it faintly.

Should I be getting the P2 instead? Or is that a bit loud too? I simply need a 1000W PSU that isn't too noisy (particularly when I'm idling).


----------



## Blaise170

I know someone here mentioned that when they turn on their PC, it will turn off after a few seconds and then reboot again. Does anyone know the fix for it? Mine is still doing it.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I know someone here mentioned that when they turn on their PC, it will turn off after a few seconds and then reboot again. Does anyone know the fix for it? Mine is still doing it.


I'm fairly sure that's a mobo issue, no way to know whether it's mobo or PSU until you test another PSU in the system.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> So I just installed an EVGA SuperNova G2 a few days ago because my new GTX 980 Ti wasn't playing along with my Corsair HX650. I love everything about it....except that it's way too loud (particularly during idle). It sounds twice as loud as the pump of my Swiftech H240-X, which is already a bit louder than I like (and is usually the loudest component in my PC until I installed the PSU). I have to really turn up the volume on my speakers to mask it - and even then, I can still hear it faintly.
> 
> Should I be getting the P2 instead? Or is that a bit loud too? I simply need a 1000W PSU that isn't too noisy (particularly when I'm idling).


What is your idle load? In ECO the fan turns off, how are you getting noise from PSU?
Even on 1000 G2 that doesn't have fanless ECO, the fan on minimum speed spins only around 800rpm, that isn't that loud.

I guess you forgot to read reviews before buying a 1000 or 1300 G2 that lack ECO mode and then people complain about noise when it's no different than any other fan spinning at those rpm. Sure it ain't 400rpm but the difference in noise is not that big especially for a system that will ask for up to 1000W, there is noise to be expected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I know someone here mentioned that when they turn on their PC, it will turn off after a few seconds and then reboot again. Does anyone know the fix for it? Mine is still doing it.


Use the tester = signal PSU to turn on, if you lost it look up ATX spec on wiki and short the appropriate connection. The PSU should click turn on and stay on as long as you keep it shorted.
If that works as it should then it's your mobo. Which is often the culprit these days.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Use the tester = signal PSU to turn on, if you lost it look up ATX spec on wiki and short the appropriate connection. The PSU should click turn on and stay on as long as you keep it shorted.
> If that works as it should then it's your mobo. Which is often the culprit these days.


I've had this same motherboard with a Rosewill Lightning 1300W (Superflower Golden Green) and I think one other one that worked as well. The EVGA didn't have any of these issues until one day randomly, I thought my PC died but then it clicked back on after a few seconds. I'm familiar with turning on PSUs, just short the PS_ON green wire to any ground wire, I use old Dell server PSUs for hobbyist stuff. It's been doing that ever since though. I have noticed that my power header is no longer working and I have to use a knife to short the + and - so maybe my motherboard is going bad.


----------



## Desolutional

It does seem that the mobo PWR header is damaged or corroded, especially if it won't conduct a power button signal. Should never have to use a knife to short the header, a press of the cases power button should be plenty... it might also be the case, maybe the case power button is faulty?


----------



## JackCY

Aren't the header pins gold plated?
No onboard power button?
If it works when shorting the PWR pins on mobo then the culprit is in the switch/leads/contacts. Though that would be weird since the button is only a brief signal as well it doesn't stay clicked in an ON position.
+- you mean the PWR header pins right?


----------



## Blaise170

Yeah the header pins for the case switch. GB doesn't have power buttons on any of their motherboards AFAIK.


----------



## JackCY

The upper tier GB boards for Intel do have power, reset and display.

But in the main market ($150) many don't, especially for Z97 where most boards had features cut off compared to Z87 to have better profit from them.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> The upper tier GB boards for Intel do have power, reset and display.
> 
> But in the main market ($150) many don't, especially for Z97 where most boards had features cut off compared to Z87 to have better profit from them.


yes this is true.


----------



## looniam

so do we conclude that mainstream gigabyte boards suck?


----------



## dixson01974

You can add me to the owner of this big 1600 WATTS PSU.

EDIT
I'm not sure what I will be using it for, but I have all the power I will never need with this one.

WAIT!!!
I can use it on my rig I have now. I think it will be a little overkill.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> EDIT
> I'm not sure what I will be using it for, but I have all the power I will never need with this one.
> 
> WAIT!!!
> I can use it on my rig I have now. I think it will be a little overkill.


get hot in the summer?

sacrifice a few 8 pin pci cables to a 1K inverter and run a smaller AC unit.









and yes, still power your rig


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> EDIT
> I'm not sure what I will be using it for, but I have all the power I will never need with this one.
> 
> WAIT!!!
> I can use it on my rig I have now. I think it will be a little overkill.
> 
> 
> 
> get hot in the summer?
> 
> sacrifice a few 8 pin pci cables to a 1K inverter and run a smaller AC unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yes, still power your rig
Click to expand...


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so do we conclude that mainstream gigabyte boards suck?


I have a UD5, but exactly a cheapie when the UD7 is their flagship line.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dixson01974*
> 
> 
> You can add me to the owner of this big 1600 WATTS PSU.
> 
> EDIT
> I'm not sure what I will be using it for, but I have all the power I will never need with this one.
> 
> WAIT!!!
> I can use it on my rig I have now. I think it will be a little overkill.


Added to the owners list.

Edit: i have laid down some ground rules if you want to be added to the owners list

*Rules you must follow if you want to be added to the owners list.

You must show a clear picture of your Leadex and/or SuperNova G2/P2/T2 unit or the box, the amount of wattage must be clear as well but it does not matter if its inside or outside your system.
Anyone that wont show any pictures or have too poor quality pictures or a picture that dont show the amount of wattage clearly will NOT be added to the owners list.*

Sory that i had to that but i am tired of spending time trying to make sense of tiny and/or blurry or just downright bad pictures so i am setting a standard now.
Everyone is welcome to join no matter who she or he is as long as that one rule is followed.


----------



## EthanKing

Will post a picture later of my 750w g2. Hope my crappy phone can take a clear enough picture.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Will post a picture later of my 750w g2. Hope my crappy phone can take a clear enough picture.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


As long its not super blurry or super tiny its good enough.
As long as you are able to see what it is and the amount of wattage its fine, it does not even have to be of the unit itself the box is good enough.


----------



## EthanKing

Few bad glamour shots
















Painted an SSD red

















Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few bad glamour shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Painted an SSD red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


Added to the list.


----------



## EthanKing

Cheers must add the club to my sig.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Cheers must add the club to my sig.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


A good tip when you are posting multiple pictures is to use spoilers.
That way you dont slow down the loading for users with slower internet speeds and you also make the page shorter so users dont have to scroll down forever to get to the next post.

You dont have to do it for one or two pictures that fine but please do when posting more.


----------



## EthanKing

Okay thanks. Not sure how to do that from Tapatalk though lol.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Never used OCN from a phone so i dont know either.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EthanKing*
> 
> Okay thanks. Not sure how to do that from Tapatalk though lol.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Never used OCN from a phone so i dont know either.


You just have to type the actual text out as there is no button like the browser version. i.e. -

SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!

message/picture wanting to hide

/SPOILER

And make sure to add brackets [ ] around both spoiler message -

[ SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler! ]
[ /SPOILER ]

without the spaces.


----------



## ColdFusion 13

also as a werid side note... after having looked at the word SPOILER spelled out... it doesn't look right.

Anyone else ever get that? you know, you can spell, and can even spell the word, but for some reason it just doesn't look right.

i guess if i had to "make it look right" i would spell it as such -


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Spoyaler.


----------



## shilka

Seems like there is going to be a brand new Leadex series for us in the EU.
Its called the Leadex Silver so it should be obvious what it is a Leadex with downgraded efficiency for those with limited amount of funds.

Wattage is going to be 450 / 550 / 650 / 750 / 850 and 1000 watts, they are still fully modular and the 450 watt is really interesting as there is almost no fully modular units in that wattage area.


----------



## Desolutional

They'll definitely be competing with the Corsair CX series then, and they'll have to price accordingly. A 450W modular isn't going to be too cheap I presume: still it would be great for SFF eco builds.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> They'll definitely be competing with the Corsair CX series then, and they'll have to price accordingly. A 450W modular isn't going to be too cheap I presume: still it would be great for SFF eco builds.


Really dont think the silver rated Leadex series is going to be competing with the CX you are looking at a class above that.
Which is fine as thats the upper low range or lower middle range and there is almost nothing in that area.

Think we are looking at something that is going to bridge the price gap between the Corsair CX and XFX TS and stuff like the Seasonic G and Rosewill Capstone.


----------



## Blaise170

It will be difficult to compete with CX when you can get the 500W models for under $20 but the people who know anything about PSUs will mostly avoid CX.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> It will be difficult to compete with CX when you can get the 500W models for under $20 but the people who know anything about PSUs will mostly avoid CX.


The CX is fine for very basic systems that wont see any real stess.
Your run of the mill office machine or a web browsing machine for your grandparents is fine with a CX.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The CX is fine for very basic systems that wont see any real stess.
> Your run of the mill office machine or a web browsing machine for your grandparents is fine with a CX.


But we are on overclock.net. I have a CX in my server because it is a low power system that isn't being stressed.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> But we are on overclock.net. I have a CX in my server because it is a low power system that isn't being stressed.


The CX is fine for that be anyone that throws one in a high end gaming machine is just being cheap.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A good tip when you are posting multiple pictures is to use spoilers.
> That way you dont slow down the loading for users with slower internet speeds and you also make the page shorter so users dont have to scroll down forever to get to the next post.
> 
> You dont have to do it for one or two pictures that fine but please do when posting more.


The images always download even if they are visually hidden such as behind spoilers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The CX is fine for very basic systems that wont see any real stess.
> Your run of the mill office machine or a web browsing machine for your grandparents is fine with a CX.


*it's fine with a NUC like PC.

---

Not sure making a Leadex Silver is that great. Where did you see that there will be one?
Personally when I'm looking at PSUs I'm skipping everything below Gold efficiency, which is 90%[email protected]%W.
I don't believe the slightly better parts that need to be used for better efficiency are that more expensive. Unless of course one wants to use complete cheap junk and end up with Bronze eff.

I would rather like to see 450-850W reasonably priced Titanium









Make something great and then botch it up to sell more of it, oh well, that just sounds wrong.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Not sure making a Leadex Silver is that great. Where did you see that there will be one?


http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page330.htm
And it for 230v regions only so you are not going to find a it in the US.

Not that Super Flower was ever sold in the US in the first place.


----------



## JackCY

Hmm, there are also Titanium from 550 but I've never seen them sold :/
Neither does SF have anything but the 1600W on their webpage.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Hmm, there are also Titanium from 550 but I've never seen them sold :/
> Neither does SF have anything but the 1600W on their webpage.


They are brand new so most of them has not show up yet.
Super Flower are not the ones on the way with new stuff as Seasonic (for the first time in years) are on the way with two new series.

There is a bunch of other brands and OEM´s that have new stuff on is on the way with new stuff.
The Rosewill Quark has just gotten a review on JG which i have not had the time to read yet.


----------



## JackCY

I will sum it up for you:

"Coo."


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I will sum it up for you:
> 
> "Coo."


Yes i just finished it and added it to the Rosewill thread.
Its not bad at all other then one huge flaw and that is the EPS and can be pluged into the PCI-E and vice verse which is a HUGE no no.

The Photon has the same flaw so i dont know why Rosewill was stupid enough to make it again.
Even made a thead about it
Warning about the Thermaltake Toughpower Grand and the Rosewill Photon


----------



## Conspiracy

would the 850W PSU in this family be sufficient for a build that will include the skylake replacement for the i7-5930k and a 980Ti hybrid or would i need more? overclocking will likely happen on both CPU and GPU, SLI is unlikely. also will have 3X SSD and a HDD


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> would the 850W PSU in this family be sufficient for a build that will include the skylake replacement for the i7-5930k and a 980Ti hybrid or would i need more? overclocking will likely happen on both CPU and GPU, SLI is unlikely. also will have 3X SSD and a HDD


850 watts is already way overkill, the most you would need unless you are going to BIOS volt mod your GTX 980 Ti is 650 watts.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> would the 850W PSU in this family be sufficient for a build that will include the skylake replacement for the i7-5930k and a 980Ti hybrid or would i need more? overclocking will likely happen on both CPU and GPU, SLI is unlikely. also will have 3X SSD and a HDD
> 
> 
> 
> 850 watts is already way overkill
Click to expand...

ah ok perfect! then that means plenty of room if i did SLI or anything crazy in the future even though i doubt it but never know. i mean i dont even know what im eating for breakfast tomorrow









just trying to semi-future proof stuff that can prevent replacing because i bought something too small or whatever


----------



## shilka

There is an 850 watt version of the P2 if you have not already seen it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438056&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNova_P2-_-17-438-056-_-Product


----------



## Conspiracy

i was looking at the G2 but price difference isnt significant so i can just upgrade to the P2 if its newer and better. i have no problem spending extra for quality especially since i now know that 850W is overkill anyway for a hex core cpu and 980ti hybrid

THIS: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> i was looking at the G2 but price different isnt significant so i can just upgrade to the P2 if its newer and better
> 
> THIS: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018


Its the same unit just with a tiny bit better efficiency.


----------



## Conspiracy

coolio! greatly appreciate the feedback and advice and letting me know i will have way more than enough for whatever in the future. i see so many people with 1000W or more PSU's and started wondering if 850 was too little LOL


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> coolio! greatly appreciate the feedback and advice and letting me know i will have way more than enough for whatever in the future. i see so many people with 1000W or more PSU's and started wondering if 850 was too little LOL


Most people dont know a thing about power draws which is the reason why they buy that amount of wattage, its a waste if of money if he or she is not going to add more video cards later and its going to lower efficiency at lower loads.

Most systems with a single video card in it dont draw more then 250-350 watts so 850 watts is massive overkill, add another video card and we are talking 500-600 watt.
You can run 3 video cards on an 850 watt PSU and still have room left.


----------



## Conspiracy

hmm well in that case they now have a P2 offering in 750W and 650W so looks like those are a better option. guess ill step it down to a 750W instead of 850W for better efficiency


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> hmm well in that case they now have a P2 offering in 750W and 650W so looks like those are a better option. guess ill step it down to a 750W instead of 850W for better efficiency


If you are not going to add another card you can go as low as a the 650 watt (there is no 650 watt P2 but there is a 550 watt G2), or you can leave your options open and go with the 750 watt.
Unless you are going to have two cards and volt mod the BIOS on them, or if you are going to with a 3 way setup you dont really need 850 watts,


----------



## Conspiracy

sounds like 750W then to leave options open. i seriously doubt id ever go tri-SLI, im not that hardcore and i dont think id ever do volt mods to BIOS on cards


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> sounds like 750W then to leave options open. i seriously doubt id ever go tri-SLI, im not that hardcore and i dont think id ever do volt mods to BIOS on cards


750 watt then and its up to you if you want to spend the extra to get a P2 or not, since power is dirt cheap in the US its going to take you a while to earn the extra you spend on a P2 back in save power.
But if you are going to keep it for more then 5 years you can save a little bit on power.

Both the G2 and P2 are very good so up to you what you want.


----------



## Conspiracy

yeah i spend less than $2/day on power so i care more about the PSU being great quality and lasting me more than 5 years so i dont have to think about upgrading it and can just move it from rig to rig if i rebuild since im planning to upgrade to skylake when thats available then probably 3 years from that im sure ill upgrade again just because why not


----------



## JackCY

OK, found SF Platinum (550, ..., 2000) and Titanium (850, 1000, 1600) units, most not stock but seen in a shop (EU). No idea about EVGA rebrands the shop stopped selling all EVGA products lol, don't know why.


----------



## TMatzelle60

I wish there was a way to get the ledex plat with those nice white led when u plug the cable in here in the US


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> I wish there was a way to get the ledex plat with those nice white led when u plug the cable in here in the US


There is a way if you are willing to risk it and dont mind the cost.
You could get someone in the EU to buy you a Leadex and then have it shipped to you in the US.

Its not going to cheap as you not only have to pay the EU VAT which is way higher then the US you also have to pay for shipping from the shop to the buyer and then to the US, and then there is the US VAT.


----------



## JackCY

Order it from a different country. Why North America doesn't have a distributor/reseller or what it's called I don't know but South America has one








You can buy it from Europe or Asia, sure you won't get spoiled with free shipping and rebates like you could in US and instead will have to pay customs/tax on your import which probably isn't as harsh as importing to EU.
Don't need someone to buy and send it to you, lots of shops sell and send international unlike US shops. And if they don't I'm sure there are companies that offer the resend services like there are for sending the other way around.
Of course the final price is probably going to be miles away from what most in US are used to.


----------



## Archea47

Welp, I popped my 1300 G2

I had a leak, leaked most of the water in the system slowly out of a cracked GPU block above the PSU. Some of the water I could see was going down the hose but apparently some also made it in the PSU

Was playing GTAV at the time and the system shut down. When I pressed the button, it started to spin for a moment and then quiet. Opened the case and found the wet GPU

I removed the video card, reassembled the loop and fan dried for 4 days. I unplugged everything (except my hard drives - hope they're OK though they were about to be handed down to the Girl's Box) and tried jumping the PSU getting ready to fill with water.

Aaaaand *POP*. There was a flash of light inside the PSU and my ears are still ringing from the event.

_So I'm in the market again_. I have the G2 individually-sleeved cable set and would like to keep them. I like the look of the Super Flower units better than the EVGA - do the cables fit? Also where does someone in the USA buy a Super Flower?

Or is there someone else I should be looking at? I was thinking about the 1600 but I'm having a hard time justifying the extra $200 but wouldn't mind a little more capacity. I'll most likely go with another 1300 unless I can find a Super Flower in similar capacity and price range


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I have the G2 individually-sleeved cable set and would like to keep them. I like the look of the Super Flower units better than the EVGA - do the cables fit? er?


The cables does NOT fit, and you cant buy Super Flower in the US.


----------



## JackCY

Gold 1600W, Platinum 1600 and 2000W, Titanium 850, 1000, 1600W should fit EVGA cables IF the electrical connections are equal. Based on product pictures.
They are newer and don't use the SF blinky connectors.



Maybe there are other units but most likely these are the only new after the EVGA deal plus have so many connections the big blinky connectors wouldn't fit.
Design wise, it's still gonna be stuck in a case fan down all you will see is barely a sticker and a black/white metal box lol.

For comparison:


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Most people dont know a thing about power draws which is the reason why they buy that amount of wattage, its a waste if of money if he or she is not going to add more video cards later and its going to lower efficiency at lower loads.
> 
> Most systems with a single video card in it dont draw more then 250-350 watts so 850 watts is massive overkill, add another video card and we are talking 500-600 watt.
> You can run 3 video cards on an 850 watt PSU and still have room left.


Really what kind of 3 video cards the GTX 960?

i remember i made a post afew months ago about upgrading my 850w Corsair PSU for a quiet 1200w unit

at the time i had SLI 980s under water overclocked but not massivly overvolted only 1.237v and i was close to capatiy with 80% use during 3d Mark and BF4 on the x99 platform

i have now got 2x 980Tis and they are not even underwater yet and i havent modded the bios properly but during my prelimary overclocking on air my system shuts down during 3dmark or Heaven

guess i do need a 1200 unit after all

Orginal thread

http://www.overclock.net/t/1545386/quietest-1200w-psu/0_40


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Really what kind of 3 video cards the GTX 960?
> 
> i remember i made a post afew months ago about upgrading my 850w Corsair PSU for a quiet 1200w unit
> 
> at the time i had SLI 980s under water overclocked but not massivly overvolted only 1.237v and i was close to capatiy with 80% use during 3d Mark and BF4 on the x99 platform
> 
> i have now got 2x 980Tis and they are not even underwater yet and i havent modded the bios properly but during my prelimary overclocking on air my system shuts down during 3dmark or Heaven
> 
> guess i do need a 1200 unit after all
> 
> Orginal thread
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1545386/quietest-1200w-psu/0_40


Your CPU is a big part of the problem because its power draw is VERY high when overclocked. So, your system is an exception.


----------



## JackCY

You will often hear it, unless you are modding the vbios and pushing some high volts or power, which it seems you are then of course you will need a step higher PSU to compensate. For normal use and OC without going nuts on voltages and power limits it works fine.
What does 850W Corsair unit means I have no idea, can it do full power without crashing at 50C?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You will often hear it, unless you are modding the vbios and pushing some high volts or power, which it seems you are then of course you will need a step higher PSU to compensate. For normal use and OC without going nuts on voltages and power limits it works fine.
> What does 850W Corsair unit means I have no idea, can it do full power without crashing at 50C?


Judging from his sig rig, it looks like he is talking about his AX860.


----------



## JackCY

I see. E series + 2xGM200/Fiji stock would work, but with OC and even modding it's not gonna do. Fine for GM204s but not power hungry GM200s or Fiji. People underestimate that OCing and doing it a lot raises power consumption immensely. As does running stress tests that load the whole component. None of which manufacturers take into account when rating their product power consumption.
If someone is going nuts with 2x980Ti, E series, all under water, overvolted, overpowered, then I really see no reason not to buy a 1600W Titanium and call it a day since money is no issue for them and it will run Furmark just for the lulz I guess. All in then all in I say.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The cables does NOT fit, and you cant buy Super Flower in the US.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Gold 1600W, Platinum 1600 and 2000W, Titanium 850, 1000, 1600W should fit EVGA cables IF the electrical connections are equal. Based on product pictures.
> They are newer and don't use the SF blinky connectors.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there are other units but most likely these are the only new after the EVGA deal plus have so many connections the big blinky connectors wouldn't fit.
> Design wise, it's still gonna be stuck in a case fan down all you will see is barely a sticker and a black/white metal box lol.
> 
> For comparison:


Thanks team!

I ended up just buying another G2 1300W. Amazon has them for ~$195 with prime. Worth the difference to get it by Thursday and not have to 1.) MIR and 2.) deal with newegg

I found some Leadex PSUs on ebay but they would have shipped from Italy and I don't want to wait that long


----------



## xtrafingers

Bought mine after seeing so many 5 star ratings and reading excellent reviews.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtrafingers*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought mine after seeing so many 5 star ratings and reading excellent reviews.


Since i am a nice guy i am going to let it pass this time but that picture is really blurry no offense.
You have been added to the list.

Think you are too close when you took that picture.


----------



## TwoCables

If the camera has a macro lens, then use it.  They work well for taking pictures that close to things.


----------



## xtrafingers

Thanks! I'll snap/upload a better replacement pic later this evening..


----------



## ptuga

My Evga G2 550w has arrived, soo far so good, fan never turns on! i5 4690, asus gtx 970.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ptuga*
> 
> Just got my Evga G2 550w, soo far so good, fan never turns on! i5 4690, asus gtx 970.


You are the first one that has gotten the 550 watt G2.
If you want to be added to the owners list you just have to add a picture.


----------



## ptuga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You are the first one that has gotten the 550 watt G2.
> If you want to be added to the owners list you just have to add a picture.


Edit: I'll post a better picture tomorrow.


----------



## Conspiracy

so is fan up like that better than fan down? or does it matter? my case also has a bottom vent and even my current PSU is oriented with its fan against that i guess as an intake, never checked to see if the PSU fan was a vent or intake


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> so is fan up like that better than fan down? or does it matter? my case also has a bottom vent and even my current PSU is oriented with its fan against that i guess as an intake, never checked to see if the PSU fan was a vent or intake


It does not matter the least as long as you have a filter in the bottom and the bottom of the case can get some air under it.


----------



## Conspiracy

cool. ill keep it as is then. filter rarely gets dirty but i check it every other week anyway


----------



## TwoCables

Fans are either "intake" or "exhaust". *Most* PSUs today have an intake fan (at least the good PSUs).


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Fans are either "intake" or "exhaust". *Most* PSUs today have an intake fan (at least the good PSUs).


ATX standard says for a PSU to be a part of the ATX standard it must have an intake fan, if it does not have an intake fan its not a part of the ATX standard.
I have never ever seen a PSU with an outtake fan other then some old Antec units and even those had an intake fan as well.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> ATX standard says for a PSU to be a part of the ATX standard it must have an intake fan, if it does not have an intake fan its not a part of the ATX standard.
> I have never ever seen a PSU with an outtake fan other then some old Antec units and even those had an intake fan as well.


The reason why I said this is, I encountered an OCN member about a week or two ago where I told them flat-out that their PSU's fan was an intake because that's the way all PSUs are. He corrected me and said that he knows it should be intake, but he confirmed that it's exhaust by feeling it and putting things next to the fan that were blown away from it rather than being sucked in. So, I said that if it's exhaust, then that's a sign of how bad the PSU is. heh


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The reason why I said this is, I encountered an OCN member about a week or two ago where I told them flat-out that their PSU's fan was an intake because that's the way all PSUs are. He corrected me and said that he knows it should be intake, but he confirmed that it's exhaust by feeling it and putting things next to the fan that were blown away from it rather than being sucked in.


Sounds like the fan is messed up then or there is something blocking the air flow inside making it go back out.


----------



## ptuga

Sinve this PSU works fanless, at least for me, it is better to stay fan up, because it will get airflow. I have a positive preasure inside my case and good airflow.

This should allow the PSU to run cooler.


----------



## Desolutional

Wouldn't suggest running fan sunny side up, especially if you have custom non-reference GPU(s). Heat does rise, but not quick enough to stop the PSU from sucking the air in (if it starts to use the fan).


----------



## gdubc

For those of you in the U.S. that really, really, really, NEED a superflower unit, you can pay the price like I did and get one from OCUK. They have them on special often to save a little. I would have to dig out my receipt to see what I paid all said and done. It wasn't too bad. Shipping sucked mostly, I think it was like $70, but I tried to make it a better value by also getting some Alpenföhn fans I wanted but also can't get in U.S.


----------



## TwoCables

Naaah, we have PSUs available to us in the U.S. that were made using the mighty Leadex.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Naaah, we have PSUs available to us in the U.S. that were made using the mighty Leadex.


Yeah, I know the evga are leadex, Im talking about those who want the Superflower branded ones specifically for the looks or color.









It was worth the added cost for me and my plans.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Blaise170

Can the Superflower branded units be used on standard 110/120V outlets?


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, it's kinda hard to beat the beauty of those white Leadex PSUs.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Can the Superflower branded units be used on standard 110/120V outlets?


Yeah but you have to get a cord. Mine came with 2 types, the one in the box and one uk type from ocuk but neither were us version.


----------



## ptuga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Wouldn't suggest running fan sunny side up, especially if you have custom non-reference GPU(s). Heat does rise, but not quick enough to stop the PSU from sucking the air in (if it starts to use the fan).


Me neither









But this thing runs passive, even under furmark for 15min and it's summer here in Portugal.
GPU core is 1430-1443Mhz, memory: 7700Mhz.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Yeah, I know the evga are leadex, Im talking about those who want the Superflower branded ones specifically for the looks or color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was worth the added cost for me and my plans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If you want to be added to the owners list you have to follow the new rule, you can find that on post no.2 on page 1.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If you want to be added to the owners list you have to follow the new rule, you can find that on post no.2 on page 1.


I'm already on the list!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I'm already on the list!


So you are i just forgot as i can recall who is on and who is not.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> So you are i just forgot as i can recall who is on and who is not.


Understandable








After your recent post about pics, I bet mine drove you nuts, lol. Just noticed the model # wasn't in any of them, hahaha!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Understandable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After your recent post about pics, I bet mine drove you nuts, lol. Just noticed the model # wasn't in any of them, hahaha!


If you had not been on the list already i would have told they where not good enough as you cant see the amount og wattage on any of them.


----------



## xtrafingers

I re-upped a PSU pic & posted a re-do of Heaven benchmarking.


----------



## SteezyTN

I would love to be added













This PSU won't fit in my 750D due to limitations from the bottom mounted radiator, but I'll try and get it hooked up outside to see how quiet it is. My SMA8 won't arrive for at least another month or two, so it'll most likely be sitting in the package till then.

Edit* it even came with the jumper connector thing for when I want to run just my pump for leak testing. I haven't even turned it on and I'm in love.



Also, this PSU is SOOO light. Compared to my AX860, that thing is heavy over the 1300 G2


----------



## shilka

Added to the list


----------



## Archea47

What would be an appropriate size of UPS to pair with the 1300W G2?

I'm looking at something like this: APC


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> What would be an appropriate size of UPS to pair with the 1300W G2?
> 
> I'm looking at something like this: APC


It depends on what your actual power consumption is.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It depends on what your actual power consumption is.


Possibly 1200W on the business (DC) side if we assume 300W for the CPU (8350 @ 1.6xV) and 450W for each 290X running 1.4V. TSM showed some 1500+W at the wall when overclocking the 290s


----------



## Blaise170

If you are trying to throw everything on that UPS while overclocked then you'll want at least a 1900VA UPS. General rule of thumb is:

Code:



Code:


W / 0.8 = VA


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> If you are trying to throw everything on that UPS while overclocked then you'll want at least a 1900VA UPS. General rule of thumb is:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> W / 0.8 = VA


Thanks!

It seems that prices really spike and options fall off above 1500VA. Doed anyone have any recommendations?


----------



## Blaise170

You could always just get two UPS units. Batteries would be more expensive but you'd save money on the actual units.


----------



## Synik

Anyone else have g2 1600 watt evga psu? Wondering what you thought on noise. Mine makes a slight humming noise


----------



## EthanKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synik*
> 
> Anyone else have g2 1600 watt evga psu? Wondering what you thought on noise. Mine makes a slight humming noise


Could it be a bit of vibration on the case? Does it do it with the psu not touching anything like if you started it in your hand? If not then some little O rings between the psu and case could work.

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk


----------



## SteezyTN

I keep hearing the G2 series is super loud. I haven't even turned it on yet and I'm already worried.


----------



## Synik

It isnt super loud just audible and me being picky. I hear the g2 1300 is louder with a different fan. There is a hum noise but trying to narrow it down. Might just be from water pump


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I keep hearing the G2 series is super loud. I haven't even turned ised it yet and I'm already worried.


just give it a shot man.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> just give it a shot man.


The problem is that I'll need to test it out of my case because it won't fit. I got it because it's going into my caselabs build where it can fit. Also, I'm super busy this week with work and studying for my exam on Monday and a second on Tuesday. Maybe Tuesday night I'll try and test it.


----------



## Blaise170

I only have the 850W but it is no louder than the rest of my system.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I only have the 850W but it is no louder than the rest of my system.


the 850 G2 not only has a fanless mode that the 1300 G2 lacks, it has a quieter fan profile in general.


----------



## shilka

The 1000 and 1300 watt use a double ball-bearing made Hong Hua vs every other G2 unit which use a Double dall-bearing fan made by Globe Fan.

Compare the Globe Fan on the 750 watt


To the Hong Hua on the 1000 watt


Everyone should know about the noise already and if you dont it takes less then 5 mins to find out, so everyone that complains well sory you done a poor job of checking.


----------



## TwoCables

It only takes less than 5 minutes to find out if you know how to find the information. It takes longer if you have to figure it out.

Anyway, whether the PSU's fan will be loud enough to hear depends on how high your power draw is on it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It only takes less than 5 minutes to find out if you know how to find the information. It takes longer if you have to figure it out.
> 
> Anyway, whether the PSU's fan will be loud enough to hear depends on how high your power draw is on it.


All the info is on the first page and in the EVGA info thread.
There is a reason why its called the info thread, its really not hard to find the info you need.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> All the info is on the first page and in the EVGA info thread.
> There is a reason why its called the info thread, its really not hard to find the info you need.


You're assuming that everyone who comes to this club thread is going to carefully read the entire OP and that they're also going to carefully read the OP of the Info thread. Most people will just go "Hey, a club! How do I join?" Y'know? You can't blame someone or crucify them or whatever if they didn't read the OP or go look at the info thread. I'm sorry to say it, but you have to patiently show it to those people. You can't come at them and be hard on them just because they didn't go looking for it or didn't read it or didn't see it.


----------



## Sempre

I've been having some crossfire issues lately that causes stuttering and spiky GPU usage in some games. Anyone thinks I'm near the limits of the 760? Everything's at stock.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I've been having some crossfire issues lately that causes stuttering and spiky GPU usage in some games. Anyone thinks I'm near the limits of the 760? Everything's at stock.


Is anything overclocked at all?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is anything overclocked at all?


No. I had the CPU overclocked before but reset it to stock to rule it out. The gpus are also stock.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> No. I had the CPU overclocked before but reset it to stock to rule it out. The gpus are also stock.


Hmm. Could the driver be the culprit? I mean, what if you just need to go back to an older driver?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I've been having some crossfire issues lately that causes stuttering and spiky GPU usage in some games. Anyone thinks I'm near the limits of the 760? Everything's at stock.


Crossfire what and what PSU? Two 290s will run on 750W, you just won't have much room for anything else.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Crossfire what and what PSU? Two 290s will run on 750W, you just won't have much room for anything else.


The AX760 in his sig rig. At stock (which he is at right now), he has *PLENTY* of power:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290_crossfire_review_benchmarks,4.html

With two R9 290s under full load in Crossfire in their system, their PSU pulled 603W from the wall outlet. If I assume that their PSU was 90% efficient while pulling 603W from the wall, then that means their computer pulled 542W from the PSU. If I add 84W for the 4770K, then that makes the computer pulling 627W from the PSU. While gaming though, the power consumption will be even lower, peaking at maybe 600W. This is very easy for the AX760. Very easy.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hmm. Could the driver be the culprit? I mean, what if you just need to go back to an older driver?


Yeah I've checked all things related to software. Tried 15.4, 15.6 and 15.7. I've also done a fresh windows installation on a new SSD! So It's either my PSU or the cards. With one card i see no stuttering in spite of the decreased FPS.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> Yeah I've checked all things related to software. Tried 15.4, 15.6 and 15.7. I've also done a fresh windows installation on a new SSD! So It's either my PSU or the cards. With one card i see no stuttering in spite of the decreased FPS.


What about 14.x drivers?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What about 14.x drivers?


No i didn't try it. Ok ill install 14.12 and report back.

Also, i just realized this is the Supernova/Superflower thread. I thought this was the Recommended Power Supplies thread so I'm sorry I'm off topic. I was actually reading this thread because I'm planning on getting a P2 if it turns out my PSU is the issue.
Anyway if you don't mind @TwoCables my next post will be there.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> No i didn't try it. Ok ill install 14.12 and report back.
> 
> Also, i just realized this is the Supernova/Superflower thread. I thought this was the Recommended Power Supplies thread so I'm sorry I'm off topic. I was actually reading this thread because I'm planning on getting a P2 if it turns out my PSU is the issue.
> Anyway if you don't mind @TwoCables my next post will be there.


You didn't have to @ mention me. Now I'm going to receive an e-mail telling me what I already know. lol

Anyway, I was tempted to say "but this is an EVGA SuperNova thread". However, I quickly stopped myself from saying that because to be perfectly honest, I'd rather people ask PSU-related questions in threads like this one where it's very guaranteed that they're going to get a factual answer instead of making a thread that leaves them open to replies that are just guesses. So to be honest, if this were MY thread and if people were treating it as a general PSU forum, I'd be happy about it!


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You didn't have to @ mention me. Now I'm going to receive an e-mail telling me what I already know. lol


My bad lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Anyway, I was tempted to say "but this is an EVGA SuperNova thread". However, I quickly stopped myself from saying that because to be perfectly honest, I'd rather people ask PSU-related questions in threads like this one where it's very guaranteed that they're going to get a factual answer instead of making a thread that leaves them open to replies that are just guesses. So to be honest, if this were MY thread and if people were treating it as a general PSU forum, I'd be happy about it!


I feel the same so if Shilka's ok with it ill stay here. Also i don't want bump a 2 week old cat thread


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> My bad lol
> I feel the same so if Shilka's ok with it ill stay here. Also i don't want bump a 2 week old cat thread


Maybe you could be like, "Hey, how much power would I need if I bought a cat?" 

haha no don't. lol


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Maybe you could be like, "Hey, how much power would I need if I bought a cat?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha no don't. lol










The question is how much power a cat can provide:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











I installed 14.12. It's looking good but I'm still in the middle of testing. I'm feeling my old SSD is the culprit. Still not positive yet.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The AX760 in his sig rig. At stock (which he is at right now), he has *PLENTY* of power:
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290_crossfire_review_benchmarks,4.html
> 
> With two R9 290s under full load in Crossfire in their system, their PSU pulled 603W from the wall outlet. If I assume that their PSU was 90% efficient while pulling 603W from the wall, then that means their computer pulled 542W from the PSU. If I add 84W for the 4770K, then that makes the computer pulling 627W from the PSU. While gaming though, the power consumption will be even lower, peaking at maybe 600W. This is very easy for the AX760. Very easy.


Yes of course lol. Wouldn't trust two 290s on a cheapie 750W though.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Yes of course lol. Wouldn't trust two 290s on a cheapie 750W though.


I would! It's fun!


----------



## shilka

sory never mind wrong thread.


----------



## Wezzor

Would my psu be able to handle one more 290? My CPU is overclocked to 4,5GHz, and my GPU 1100/1400 with powerlimit 50%.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Would my psu be able to handle one more 290? My CPU is overclocked to 4,5GHz, and my GPU 1100/1400 with powerlimit 50%.


Yes as long as you dont volt mod them.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes as long as you dont volt mod them.


Thank you!








I'm not planning to do it.








But is it going to push my psu to the limit if I get one more 290?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not planning to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But is it going to push my psu to the limit if I get one more 290?


No you still have at least 150 watts left


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> No you still have at least 150 watts left


Thank you once again!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not planning to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But is it going to push my psu to the limit if I get one more 290?


And your PSU is a pretty high-end unit.


----------



## Sempre

It seems the fresh windows installation+new SSD actually fixed the stuttering.

I wasn't patient and only tested GTA V on the new OS to draw a conclusion. While in fact GTA V has stuttering issues in addition to other games and benchmarks so it was previously hiding in plain site with other games/benchmarks.
I tested other games and benchmarks like valley are now smooth compared to before.
I am now back to 15.7 and relieved that my PSU is ok.

Thanks @Twocables for your help.


----------



## Blaise170

I've actually found another issue with stuttering when it comes to drives. If you look at your performance and see random spikes to 100% disk usage, simply trying a different SATA port may fix it. I had my SSD plugged into the Marvell SATA ports on my motherboard and was experiencing this issue (even with latest drivers) but switching over to the AMD ports fixed it immediately.


----------



## Sempre

Interesting. I never thought of monitoring my drive. I'll do the next time i play GTA to see if it's related.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I've been having some crossfire issues lately that causes stuttering and spiky GPU usage in some games. Anyone thinks I'm near the limits of the 760? Everything's at stock.


Games don't load the drives much, there is only a few instances when I've encountered a pause/stutter in games related to drive usage and that is when game loads resources on the fly and unfortunately the programmer had such a brilliant idea to access the drive in a render thread








Such as loading car skins when people connect to server. Maybe some open world games, scrolling maps fast, etc. if loading is not done properly.
Often it's a software fault, while having stuff on SSD helps to reduce the access time compared to HDD that flaw is still there.

Multi GPU would crash if it didn't have power. Not stutter. Stutter is pretty much a common thing for multi GPU







Especially without proper drivers and split frame rendering.


----------



## sebasm

Hey guys, I just got my Super Flower Leadex 1000w and I'm not sure if it's better to install it with the fan down or up. I'm placing it in a new build, based on Fractal R5 (so not a lot of airflow in the case). The bottom of the case looks great for airflow but all the markings on the PSU itself make it look like it's meant to sit with the fan up, drawing air from within the case. What am I missing here? Thanks bunch.


----------



## shilka

It does not matter the least which way you let it face as long as the case has a dust filter in the bottom and the case can get some air under it.
And why 1000 watts unless you are going to do a 3 way video card setup or volt mod its way overkill.


----------



## sebasm

It was on a sale. I am not sure I understand your answer though.

The markings on the case (logo, rail info etc.) make it look like the PSU is supposed sit fan up, like this:


But if I want airflow in from bellow the case, the fan should be pointing toward the ground, like this, right?


I am trying to get confirmation, just to be sure I am not missing something here.


----------



## shilka

It does not matter which way you let it face.


----------



## JackCY

The never ending question which way should I mount the PSU.

Depends on your case and needs.
For Define series that is with bottom filtered intake obviously you will put a PSU fan down so it intakes fresh cold air through the filter on bottom.

If there is no bottom intake for PSU then that case is prehistoric or has PSU up top or elsewhere. Not your case.

If you put it fan up on bottom and run ECO mode, then your GPU will suck the hot air from PSU into the case through the unfiltered PSU exhaust. Once the fan kicks in the PSU and GPU will fight for air.

That's my logic. Markings I don't care if they are upside down or sideways







Some PSUs have them differently on each side so they are always the correct way no matter how you mount, some don't have them put on that way, etc. The stickers tell you nothing really about how it should be mounted, your case does.

As long as the fan intake has air to suck and exhaust is not blocked it will be fine.


----------



## boredmug

I have a chance to buy a used evga supernova g2 1300 watt unit for 100 dollars. It was used for about 6 months for mining. Only reason I'm asking if I should jump on this.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> I have a chance to buy a used evga supernova g2 1300 watt unit for 100 dollars. It was used for about 6 months for mining. Only reason I'm asking if I should jump on this.


No never buy a second hand PSU unless you know the seller personally and know how he treats his stuff.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> I have a chance to buy a used evga supernova g2 1300 watt unit for 100 dollars. It was used for about 6 months for mining. Only reason I'm asking if I should jump on this.


I don't see why not, only $100 and even if something does go wrong it'll have a three year warranty.


----------



## JackCY

Exactly, if the price is reasonable for you to consider it second hand and the warranty is solid, why not. If the PSU was bad and about to die it would have probably done so in the 6 months of work


----------



## boredmug

Lol.. That's what I'm thinking. I'm slowly amassing new gear so I can move my rig into a x9 case with 1,560mm worth of rad space. I'm planning on pretty decent cooling at low fan speeds but the poor 850watt PSU I have right now gets a bit loud with a [email protected] and 2 290x's slightly overclocked. I really need a bigger PSU so I can explore the headroom of these cards with the new cooling system.

Main reason for a used psu is I'm trying to save a little money as I'm dumping a lot into the cooling and case


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> I have a chance to buy a used evga supernova g2 1300 watt unit for 100 dollars. It was used for about 6 months for mining. Only reason I'm asking if I should jump on this.


Newegg had it for $195 and $155 after rebate. I purchased mine from tigerdirwct and got it for $149.99 after everything (they don't charge sales tax to me)


----------



## boredmug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Newegg had it for $195 and $155 after rebate. I purchased mine from tigerdirwct and got it for $149.99 after everything (they don't charge sales tax to me)


You got a deal. Unfortunately those offers are over. :-(


----------



## looniam

i think it prudent to ask what load it had while mining for 6 months. if they are one of the "50%" guys there wouldn't be an issue . . nice find.


----------



## boredmug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i think it prudent to ask what load it had while mining for 6 months. if they are one of the "50%" guys there wouldn't be an issue . . nice find.


Good idea. I'll ask that question. All I know right now is that he has 2 of them. And then a 1200w thermaltake tough power.


----------



## boredmug

I'm not too crazy about the red pcie cables though.. They should have stuck with black


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> I'm not too crazy about the red pcie cables though.. They should have stuck with black


they were doing red on all their supernova psus up until that point. the 1200 P2 and 750/850 G2 is when they perfected everything.


----------



## dixson01974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> I have a chance to buy a used evga supernova g2 1300 watt unit for 100 dollars. It was used for about 6 months for mining. Only reason I'm asking if I should jump on this.


I don't think it is bad to buy a use PSU. I have an evga supernova g2 1600 watts. It is use and used for mining. I couldn't past it up.


----------



## t1337dude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> I'm not too crazy about the red pcie cables though.. They should have stuck with black


I found myself thinking the same thing









Btw, you mentioned you are trying to run a setup with decent cooling and low fan speeds. From my experience, the G2 1000W+ models emit too much fan noise if you're aiming for a quiet setup. Not many people optimize their PC's for silence so if you're picky about volume, I recommend getting at least the P2, because the G2 has an aggressive idle fan profile by comparison. When shopping around for PSU's, a lot of people were throwing around the word "silent" when talking about the G2, which was extremely misleading. A little research showed me that people picky about case noise have expressed dissatisfaction with the G2, which would've been helpful to me prior to purchase.

Just so you don't go off buying a used PSU and then get surprised by the volume, like I was.


----------



## boredmug

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to look for another option.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I'm going to look for another option.


Just dont buy a Corsair RM.


----------



## boredmug

Have any recommendations for a good silent unit?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> Lol.. That's what I'm thinking. I'm slowly amassing new gear so I can move my rig into a x9 case with 1,560mm worth of rad space. I'm planning on pretty decent cooling at low fan speeds but the poor 850watt PSU I have right now gets a bit loud with a [email protected] and 2 290x's slightly overclocked. I really need a bigger PSU so I can explore the headroom of these cards with the new cooling system.
> 
> Main reason for a used psu is I'm trying to save a little money as I'm dumping a lot into the cooling and case


Really? What is the brand and exact model of this PSU?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Just dont buy a Corsair RM.


RMi is fine though.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> RMi is fine though.


Yes i said RM not RMi.

Funny thing is the RMi is an upgraded HXi so its actually better then the HXi despite its lower efficiency.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> RMi is fine though.


As are the newer RM models, but it's harder to justify for the money.


----------



## boredmug

Well I currently have an Antec 850 high current gamer.. It gets loud during gaming. Louder than my cooling fans. The used unit i was looking at is a evga g2 supernova 1300w


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> Well I currently have an Antec 850 high current gamer.. It gets loud during gaming. Louder than my cooling fans. The used unit i was looking at is a evga g2 supernova 1300w


First you are not going to need 1300 watts second the 1300 watt does not have a hybrid fan mode on it.
If that Antec you have is what i think it is then its a Seasonic M12II and those are very well known for being loud under load.


----------



## EDGERRIES

Hey guys been reading up and would like to upgrade my PSU, I currently have this corsair RM1000 thats been getting me by, I cannot find any evga psus where I live. But I did find Super flowers, can anyone give me advice on this psu? Compared to my current one?

Thanks

http://www.wootware.co.za/super-flower-sf-1200f14mp-leadex-1200w-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-black-desktop-power-supply.html


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EDGERRIES*
> 
> Hey guys been reading up and would like to upgrade my PSU, I currently have this corsair RM1000 thats been getting me by, I cannot find any evga psus where I live. But I did find Super flowers, can anyone give me advice on this psu? Compared to my current one?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> http://www.wootware.co.za/super-flower-sf-1200f14mp-leadex-1200w-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-black-desktop-power-supply.html


Unless you are going to have 4 video cards you dont need 1200 watts.
And sory to tell you but your RM is terrible.


----------



## EDGERRIES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Unless you are going to have 4 video cards you dont need 1200 watts.
> And sory to tell you but your RM is terrible.


Great advice! thanks









Lol. Actually am planning on adding another card and going x99 plus 2 more 980tis in the future. Want to get rid of this Rm1000 in preparation for moving to x99.

So back to my question is the psu I posted a good enough replacement?


----------



## boredmug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> First you are not going to need 1300 watts second the 1300 watt does not have a hybrid fan mode on it.
> If that Antec you have is what i think it is then its a Seasonic M12II and those are very well known for being loud under load.


Yes. Its a seasonic. Not sure of the exact model but its pretty damn loud. I know i don't need 1300w with 2 290x's but I'd like to future proof. The g2 1300 going to be that loud? What about a g1 supernova 1000w. And yes I know it's not a super flower. I'm looking for something with a decent amount of power and not crazy loud at load. If I went with the 1300 I was thinking it wouldn't be anywhere near full load thus quieter. Suggestions please.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EDGERRIES*
> 
> Great advice! thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. Actually am planning on adding another card and going x99 plus 2 more 980tis in the future. Want to get rid of this Rm1000 in preparation for moving to x99.
> 
> So back to my question is the psu I posted a good enough replacement?


Yes the Leadex is better then that rubbish you have now.


----------



## EDGERRIES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes the Leadex is better then that rubbish you have now.


Cool thanks, Read up about the quality, you seem to be correct about the RM1000. I'm gonna decide between the Seasonic X 1250 and the Leadex 1200.

You got any info on the Seasonic x 1250 and how it compares between the Leadex? They both seem very good. Noise is not an issue for me btw.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EDGERRIES*
> 
> Cool thanks, Read up about the quality, you seem to be correct about the RM1000. I'm gonna decide between the Seasonic X 1250 and the Leadex 1200.
> 
> You got any info on the Seasonic x 1250 and how it compares between the Leadex? They both seem very good. Noise is not an issue for me btw.


The Leadex has better ripple suppression and should be cheaper, but you can go with the 1000 watts Leadex if you want you are not really going to need 1200 watts unless you are going to volt mod.


----------



## EDGERRIES

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Leadex has better ripple suppression and should be cheaper, but you can go with the 1000 watts Leadex if you want you are not really going to need 1200 watts unless you are going to volt mod.


Ok awesome yeah 1000w should be more than enough! Thanks for the advice +rep.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t1337dude*
> 
> I found myself thinking the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, you mentioned you are trying to run a setup with decent cooling and low fan speeds. From my experience, the G2 1000W+ models emit too much fan noise if you're aiming for a quiet setup. Not many people optimize their PC's for silence so if you're picky about volume, I recommend getting at least the P2, because the G2 has an aggressive idle fan profile by comparison. When shopping around for PSU's, a lot of people were throwing around the word "silent" when talking about the G2, which was extremely misleading. A little research showed me that people picky about case noise have expressed dissatisfaction with the G2, which would've been helpful to me prior to purchase.
> 
> Just so you don't go off buying a used PSU and then get surprised by the volume, like I was.


Any PSU supplying over 1000W is gonna have some decent waste heat and often the fan profiles are set to keep the PSU at reasonable temperatures. If you don't mind higher temperatures or some PSUs are able to run at lower temps. somehow even despite having the same efficiency, try RMi as Corsair often sets the fan profiles slow and cooks the PSUs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> Yes. Its a seasonic. Not sure of the exact model but its pretty damn loud. I know i don't need 1300w with 2 290x's but I'd like to future proof. The g2 1300 going to be that loud? What about a g1 supernova 1000w. And yes I know it's not a super flower. I'm looking for something with a decent amount of power and not crazy loud at load. If I went with the 1300 I was thinking it wouldn't be anywhere near full load thus quieter. Suggestions please.


G2 1000/1300 don't have ECO hence everyone is complaining they are loud at idle.

AVOID anything from EVGA that is not x2 (G2/P2/T2 SF Leadex) or xS (GS/PS Seasonic).

If you don't load the 1300 G2 a lot it will be at the lower rpms as you can see from reviews what those are. If I remember right, around 1000 rpm.

Low noise/silent PC and high power consumption don't go together, simple as that.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> AVOID anything from EVGA that is not x2 (G2/P2/T2 SF Leadex) or xS (GS/PS Seasonic).
> Low noise/silent PC and high power consumption don't go together, simple as that.


Thats not true as the 1000 watts G1 is not bad at all.
EVGA SuperNova lineup explained


----------



## JackCY

I don't like FSP









Sure some ain't bad, even the 400Wish models but you gotta know what you're really buying as it's a mess of ok and bad, not really very good PSUs up with the rest.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I don't like FSP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure some ain't bad, even the 400Wish models but you gotta know what you're really buying as it's a mess of ok and bad, not really very good PSUs up with the rest.


Not all FSP made units are bad, the old FSP Aurum Pro was better then the Seasonic KM2 and the new FSP Aurum PT is on par if not better then the Seasonic KM3.
The NZXT HALE 90 V2 is also a damm good FSP made unit.

Just because you dont like FSP does not mean you should dismiss them all, hell i hate HEC with a passion but even i know they can make good stuff they just dont for the most part.


----------



## boredmug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Any PSU supplying over 1000W is gonna have some decent waste heat and often the fan profiles are set to keep the PSU at reasonable temperatures. If you don't mind higher temperatures or some PSUs are able to run at lower temps. somehow even despite having the same efficiency, try RMi as Corsair often sets the fan profiles slow and cooks the PSUs.
> G2 1000/1300 don't have ECO hence everyone is complaining they are loud at idle.
> 
> AVOID anything from EVGA that is not x2 (G2/P2/T2 SF Leadex) or xS (GS/PS Seasonic).
> 
> If you don't load the 1300 G2 a lot it will be at the lower rpms as you can see from reviews what those are. If I remember right, around 1000 rpm.
> 
> Low noise/silent PC and high power consumption don't go together, simple as that.


Well the massive amount of radspace is supposed to compensate for the higher power consumption. Just need a reasonably quite psu


----------



## Blaise170

I don't hate on any OEM as long as their specifications are honest (i.e. not Coolmax). After all, the more a company is willing to pay to the OEM, the better the PSU manufactured will be.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I After all, the more a company is willing to pay to the OEM, the better the PSU manufactured will be.


Which is the reason why Antec are the only ones using Delta.
Everyone else is too cheap to pay.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just turned my PC on and when it got to the desktop suddenly shut down. Tried to turn it on by the case switch but nothing. Switched of the extension lead and poked my head around the back and a white light flashed from my PSU. Removed it and checked for scorch marks or smell but nothing. Shall I plug it all back in or just RMA it? Thanks.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just turned my PC on and when it got to the desktop suddenly shut down. Tried to turn it on by the case switch but nothing. Switched of the extension lead and poked my head around the back and a white light flashed from my PSU. Removed it and checked for scorch marks or smell but nothing. Shall I plug it all back in or just RMA it? Thanks.


I would not risk frying your system why not just jump start it with the paper clip trick outside of your system?
If it does not start or catch fire at least its outside of your system and you can confirm its dead.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I would not risk frying your system why not just jump start it with the paper clip trick outside of your system?
> If it does not start or catch fire at least its outside of your system and you can confirm its dead.


OK I'll try that and report back. Thanks.

EDIT: Paper clip test just made it click a few times but the fan didn't spin at all so it's dead. Contacted the retailer and hopefully they'll replace it, if not then I'll send it to EVGA as it's registered and has 10 years.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Sorry to double post. The retailer doesn't have any in stock and has offered me a refund. Looks like I'll have to wait until it's back in stock or go for a different wattage one. Don't want to change the manufacturer because I like evga and also have the cable set.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Sorry to double post. The retailer doesn't have any in stock and has offered me a refund. Looks like I'll have to wait until it's back in stock or go for a different wattage one. Don't want to change the manufacturer because I like evga and also have the cable set.


EVGA is not the manufacturer if you are not already aware.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> EVGA is not the manufacturer is you are not already aware.


Yeah I know it's Super Flower but I don't want to get one of theirs because my cables won't be compatible. Might just get the 650w because the 750w has gone up in price since I got mine.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boredmug*
> 
> Well I currently have an Antec 850 high current gamer.. It gets loud during gaming. Louder than my cooling fans. The used unit i was looking at is a evga g2 supernova 1300w


I suggest you to go on 1000 P2 or 1200 P2 if you find. You will kiss Eco Mode and I even think than 1200 P2 and 1000 P2 are more silent and with Eco Mode Disabled than G2 models.
You have and 1000 PS if you like Seasonic. But I would go on 1000 P2 or 1200 P2. I have 1200 P2 and it's not loud at all in idle or under full load when fan work. I can barely hear when PSU is very close to my head and I hear only air not fan motor.
OK I need 750W and my 1200 P2 work always in fanless mode with Eco Enabled. PSU is cold constantly, cables full black, nice dark black color of case, perfect PSU.
If you have Antec 850W probably and 1000 P2 will not start fan under full load. That's perfect scenario silent PSU, cold when system is under full load. For that you usually need about 300W more than need.

EVGA prepare and 1000 T2 Titanium. Same from Super Flower.
Probably will be most wanted PSU. 1KW is very attractive among gamers,
I suppose price will be same as 1200 P2 or slightly bigger because it's top standard at the moment and next few years, Maybe even 4-5 Titanium will stay on top.


----------



## Vlada011

EVGA now sell and new 650/750/850 P2 models.
I like that new models because Eco Switch is better quality than on 1000 P2 and 1200 P2.
But on previous models Switch is on better position.

Ideal scenario is this kind of switch but on back side, than user could change without opening side panel.



All new small models have Eco Mod switch, 550/ 650 G2, 550/ 650 GS...
Quote:


> Sorry to double post. The retailer doesn't have any in stock and has offered me a refund. Looks like I'll have to wait until it's back in stock or go for a different wattage one. Don't want to change the manufacturer because I like evga and also have the cable set.


You talk about 750 G2 model. Why you don't ask retailer to offer you 750 P2 and you pay difference in price few dollars. I would not change PSU manufacturer same as you. I like mine, I can't decide how to turn him with grill on top and I can see EVGA logo in middle or grill on bottom than I can see EVGA fonts on panel with connectors. Now few months I keep grill on top on longer period I'm not sure because dust.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Already asked them that but they don't stock it yet. I just bought the 650w version and it should be here today. Paid the same for the 650 as I did the 750 which sucks but I needed it quick so oh well.


----------



## rioja

Any idea why 1600 T2 costs $357 here?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00R33ZBQU/ref=olp_tab_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new


----------



## TwoCables

"Ships directly from EVGA" is my guess. New seller, "just launched"... I don't know.


----------



## rioja

It is by $90 cheaper than on official EVGA site. Is it high risk to buy from this Tim Sor?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> It is by $90 cheaper than on official EVGA site. Is it high risk to buy from this Tim Sor?


It's not possible to know the answer to that. He's new.


----------



## TwoCables

Are you looking at buying this? If so, then do you really need it?


----------



## Vlada011

EVGA Power Supply Cable Set Black today arrived for my 1200 P2.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Are you looking at buying this? If so, then do you really need it?


Well you wont believe Lol, I just need to fill empty space in bottom chamber of SMA8 case along with 280 rad, and since this PSU is 225mm length, I will have almost half of 3d fan space empty.

It should be up to blue line here



In addition, it has matte rough finish, which should combine nicely with Dark Matter finish of Nemesis GTX radiators, which I possible will use.

Also it should operate with fan off up to 800W load. And it has 10 yrs warranty, so I hope I really will use this PSU next 10 yrs.

So this is the mix of aesthetics with outstanding tech characteristics, although 1200W would be enough for me.


----------



## rioja

Ok, I have written e-mail to those seller on Amazon, why it is so cheap









Let's see what they reply.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> It is by $90 cheaper than on official EVGA site. Is it high risk to buy from this Tim Sor?


If through Amazon, not really a big risk.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> If through Amazon, not really a big risk.


Can't it be some refurbished or previously returned from other customer or smth else?


----------



## TwoCables

I wish I had enough money to throw around in order to buy a 1600W PSU for over $350 just because of its looks and physical dimensions.

Wouldn't you rather spend like maybe $250 less? How much power to you really need? What are you powering? Or is $350 nothing?


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wouldn't you rather spend like maybe $250 less? How much power to you really need? What are you powering? Or is $350 nothing?


Nothing special, X99, 5820 and one or two 980Ti. I could buy 1200 P2 and it would be enough I guess, but if there is difference only $100 with 1600, I may afford it. In addition, I will have some reserve for future upgrades.

And I would like to have fanless mode so high power PSU is good here. Other fans on radiators will be at 600RPM and it should be enough to cool even under max load.


----------



## Kimir

You would be fine with 1000P2 too, even with two 980Ti classy at 1.3v.


----------



## rioja

Yes, 5820 with two 980Ti will take nearly 800-900W, but fan on 1000 P2 will be above 1000 RPM, which is quite loud.

While 700 RPM fans on two 560 and one 280 rads will give ∆T (liquid - ambient) near 5-10C. So it's better to go with 1200 P2 or 1600 T2.

(I used following review
http://thermalbench.com/2015/06/22/hardware-labs-black-ice-gtx-560-radiator/5/
for estimation)


----------



## Kimir

A D5 vario pump at setting 3 make more noise than the fan of my 1300G2, I doubt the 1000P2 fan is louder.


----------



## rioja

Well here I don't know yet, I'm going to have one big loop with dual D5 PWM. Pump itself may run from 800 to 4500 RPM.

So if it will be one loop with two 560 Nemesis GTX, one 280 Nemesis GTX, Heatkiller 4.0 on CPU, and two fullcover on GPUs, how much RPM will be enough on dual D5 for getting 1 GPM? I hope that 1000 RPM. Or may be better have dual DDC on 100 RPM?

(sorry for the offtop)


----------



## shilka

1600 watts is MASSIVE overkill unless you are going to run 3-4 video cards with BIOS volt mods


----------



## Kimir

That I don't know. I have a single D5 vario and running it at setting 3 because it didn't had any impact on temperature vs setting 5. I'm at 2.3L/m (0.5/0.7 GPM?) and I'm fine, I look at the temp more than the flow.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Getting a 3rd 980 Ti in my sig rig. Currently have a 5930K @ 4.5 GHz 1.35v and 2x EVGA 980 Ti reference @ 1540 MHz 1.24v. Power draw from wall is ~1000w from Antec HCP1300 (running Fire Strike Extreme) so about 900w on the PSU. Is it worth upgrading to 1600w G2/P2/T2 for a bigger cushion (as I would think I would be around 1200w usage on the PSU side which is getting close to full load). Also, aside from efficiency, are there any differences between the 1600w EVGA models (or rather, which is the "best" for things like ripple and whatnot)?


----------



## Archea47

Buy what you like, rioja







You're right, this is a 10yr purchase if you buy the right component the first time and an extra $100 on that time scale isn't vert significant if you can afford it today. I wish I never bought my 1000W g2, because within a year I outgrew it and it's been in the closet ever since.

I will be jealous of your 1600W p2







I bought another 1300 a week or two ago and already wish I went bigger. There are different use cases for PSUs and your own may change to talking higher (or lower) draw than you do today. It's a strategic purchase

The PSU recommendations tend to be cyclical as I see it. We must be recovering from a discourse of oversized PDUs and some are reactive in insisting bigger isn't better. Check back in a year and you might get a different response


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Buy what you like, rioja
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're right, this is a 10yr purchase if you buy the right component the first time and an extra $100 on that time scale isn't vert significant if you can afford it today. I wish I never bought my 1000W g2, because within a year I outgrew it and it's been in the closet ever since.
> 
> I will be jealous of your 1600W p2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought another 1300 a week or two ago and already wish I went bigger. There are different use cases for PSUs and your own may change to talking higher (or lower) draw than you do today. It's a strategic purchase
> 
> The PSU recommendations tend to be cyclical as I see it. We must be recovering from a discourse of oversized PDUs and some are reactive in insisting bigger isn't better. Check back in a year and you might get a different response


Yes, so buying 1600 today, you may be sure that next 10 years you don't need to buy another power supply







no matter what upgrade you will apply in future. And this is Titanium, highest standard, I hope next several years they don't introduce new one

So I'm leaning to 1600 T2 instead of 1200 P2. And it's so exciting words for it - massive overkill


----------



## TwoCables

Not everyone has that kind of money to throw around. Also, the 80+ Certification is actually no way to judge the quality of a PSU. It's just marketing bait.


----------



## shilka

Why 80 PLUS® is Irrelevant to You When Buying a PSU
You are not going to need need 1600 watts unless you are going to have 3-4 video cards with BIOS volt mods, buying that much wattage when its not needed is not only a huge waste of money its stupid.


----------



## rioja

Pair of 980Ti costs $1000 and will be outdated in few years already, 1600 T2 costs 3 times less but will serve in 3-4 times longer.

For me, most strategic long-term purchases are PC case, power supply and radiators, it is really more than 10 years period investment.


----------



## shilka

Are you ever going to have a system that is going to draw anywhere near 1600 watts? if the answer is no then dont bother its a waste of money and its going to drop your efficiency at lower loads.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Are you ever going to have a system that is going to draw anywhere near 1600 watts? if the answer is no then dont bother its a waste of money and its going to drop your efficiency at lower loads.


What do you mean? If system has 900w at full load, what will be difference on idle, on half load (450w) and full load (900w) between 1200 Platinum and 1600 Titanium power supplies? Is it possible ever to estimate?

Actually I doubt it will be noticeable difference, the only thing we may be sure is that 1600 T2 will be in fanless mode most of the time.


----------



## shilka

The more wattage you buy more then you really need the lower the efficiency at lower loads is going to be.
You are wasting money by buying the wattage you dont need and you are wasting money on your power bill because you bought too much wattage.

Its a waste of money to begin with and its a waste of money for as long as you have it.


----------



## rioja

You really think that month power bill will be different between 1200 and 1600? I don't.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> You really think that month power bill will be different between 1200 and 1600? I don't.


Then you are wrong, and i do not think it i know it.


----------



## rioja

Ok, but can you prove it? Let's say computer runs 24/7 in whole one month on idle, without any load. How much watts drains 1200 p2 and 1600 t2?


----------



## TwoCables

How much per month is saved? Is this worth talking about? When someone has enough money to throw down $400 on a PSU just because of its appearance and physical dimensions without being phased by it, I think saving a few dollars per month on the electricity bill isn't a concern at *all.*


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Ok, but can you prove it? Let's say computer runs 24/7 in whole one month on idle, without any load. How much watts drains 1200 p2 and 1600 t2?


There are no rules and standards for efficiency below 20% which means that every single PSU out there has much lower efficiency below 20% this is fact and every PSU review you can find shows this.
I just picked a random review on a random unit so take a look for yourself


As for the costs that depends on how much your system draws and what your local price on power is.
If you keep an oversized PSU for 5 years you have wasted enough money to buy yourself a whole new PSU if not more then one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How much per month is saved? Is this worth talking about? When someone has enough money to throw down $400 on a PSU just because of its appearance and physical dimensions without being phased by it, I think saving a few dollars per month on the electricity bill isn't a concern at *all.*


If your power is dirt cheap sure it does not matter all that much but when you are paying 4-5 times that it DOES matter.


----------



## TwoCables

Dude. it's not like he's hurting for money and needs to save a few bucks per month on his electricity bill. He's willing to throw down $400 on a PSU just because it looks good and has the right physical dimensions (it's huge).


----------



## Kimir

took this graph on the web, for example purpose









See the drop of efficiency at low load? Same thing for higher wattage PSU.
I'm at 135w on the wall with my Panda rig (780Ti KPE 1.36v and 4930K 1.34v) and I go up to 1200w under load *from the wall* (1400 with both cards a 1.45v). So yeah efficiency at IDLE is just bad if you take a too high wattage.

edit: y'all too fast, multiple answer while I was typing!


----------



## shilka

*


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> He said its not true that you get lower efficiency at lower loads, a claim that is flatout wrong and false.


When did he say that?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When did he say that?


Never mind i misunderstood.
But its still a fact that buying too much wattage when its never going to be needed is both a waster of money at the start and in the long run and its pointless if not stupid


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Never mind i misunderstood.


I know.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Never mind i misunderstood.
> But its still a fact that buying too much wattage when its never going to be needed is both a waster of money at the start and in the long run and its pointless if not stupid


I'm not going to worry about saving someone a few bucks per month on their electricity bill if they can afford a ~$400 PSU and a very high-end CPU and video card.


----------



## TwoCables

Hey rioja, are you interested in reducing your electricity bill?


----------



## shilka

wrong thread


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> There are no rules and standards for efficiency below 20% which means that every single PSU out there has much lower efficiency below 20% this is fact and every PSU review you can find shows this.
> I just picked a random review on a random unit so take a look for yourself
> 
> 
> As for the costs that depends on how much your system draws and what your local price on power is.
> If you keep an oversized PSU for 5 years you have wasted enough money to buy yourself a whole new PSU if not more then one.
> If your power is dirt cheap sure it does not matter all that much but when you are paying 4-5 times that it DOES matter.


80 PLUS Titanium claims that efficiency at 10% of full load must be >=90%, previous standards just don't have such reqs.

This is corsair 1500 axi titanium










On load 150 w it has efficiency 90.1%, ur examples shows that at 150w load FSP 1200 has nearly 89%, Seasonic x750 has nearly 92%.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Getting a 3rd 980 Ti in my sig rig. Currently have a 5930K @ 4.5 GHz 1.35v and 2x EVGA 980 Ti reference @ 1540 MHz 1.24v. Power draw from wall is ~1000w from Antec HCP1300 (running Fire Strike Extreme) so about 900w on the PSU. Is it worth upgrading to 1600w G2/P2/T2 for a bigger cushion (as I would think I would be around 1200w usage on the PSU side which is getting close to full load). Also, aside from efficiency, are there any differences between the 1600w EVGA models (or rather, which is the "best" for things like ripple and whatnot)?


Anyone have any thoughts?


----------



## Synik

No one knows the future. No one knows if he will never use close to 1600 watt in 10 years. It could or could not be a waste. When i got 750 watt everyone said i will never need more for sli. Couple years later and it cant do sli for current gpus. Never know if sli suddenly becomes better scaling or if gpu will start using 3 8 pins like kingpin 980 ti and use more and more power. Never know if samsung buys out amd and creates video cards that use more power. Again no one here knows the future. 10 year in electronics is long time. Also johnnyguru did 10% load tests ans many of these novas do above 80%. It isnt a massive inefficiency


----------



## shilka

Power draws are going down not up so hardware is going to use less power not more.
Overkill now is even more overkill later if you not going to use it.


----------



## wholeeo

Well, I got notified a bit ago about 1200 P2's being in stock and since I had that 50% off promo I went ahead and ordered one for $140 shipped. Do I need it? Not at all, but I can't turn down a $20 dollar or so out of pocket upgrade once I sell my current PSU.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Pair of 980Ti costs $1000 and will be outdated in few years already, 1600 T2 costs 3 times less but will serve in 3-4 times longer.
> 
> For me, most strategic long-term purchases are PC case, power supply and radiators, it is really more than 10 years period investment.


That's true. Always you need in house one strong PSU quality reliable and one for back.
And off course case as Caselabs and some Platinum/Titanium Supernova would be my first order for build.
There are few models with absolutely same quality as SuperNOVA... example Seasonic Gold, Platinum, CORSAIR, Platinum, Gold, Super Flower Platinum and Gold, Antec new models.
But if you want together everything and nicest sleeve cables, and longest warranty and best PSU look and performance and technical support and best package than EVGA PSU are No.1.
I like and Seasonic and CORSAIR how pack their units, but EVGA NEX1500 and Supernova 1200 P2 are something best what I saw, OK all G2/P2/T2 are same as excellent package.
I think that in this topic should be welcomed and people with GS and PS series. It's same EVGA SuperNOVA, or they have own topic?
Quote:


> Ok, I have written e-mail to those seller on Amazon, why it is so cheap biggrin.gif
> 
> Let's see what they reply.


That's smart decision if you want fanless mode with 2xGTX980Ti than you will need probably 1600 T2.
My advice is Why not... You don't need to think at all how strong is your PSU, answer is simple...
ENOUGH FOR EVERYTHING ... and that's it. Why is so important to be 1200W if you don't need more than 1000W, If you like 1600W and Titanium, PSU really look cool with size, and not only size power cord is C19 I think, such size is enough for 10.000W power.. Total Score for 1600W Titanium is 9.9.

1600 T2 inside... and power cable


----------



## wholeeo

Anyone have an opinion on the EVGA individually sleeved cable set? Are there better options out there for the price?


----------



## Synik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Power draws are going down not up so hardware is going to use less power not more.
> Overkill now is even more overkill later if you not going to use it.


Seems like it has gone up over the years. Maybe with pascal it will go down but year after that who knows. Maybe they come out with dual core gpus or dual sli for vr sli for each eye, etx. I was told 750 would last me 5 years since i never thought about going tri sli. Now we have 2x 980 ti going over 750 only 2 years later.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> I think that in this topic should be welcomed and people with GS and PS series. It's same EVGA SuperNOVA, or they have own topic?


EVGA SuperNova NEX/B1/G1/GS/PS are not Super Flower Leadex based so thats why they are not in this club.


----------



## JackCY

If you are throwing away money on insane hardware, go buy 1600 T2, I would too. Or some other 1000+ Titanium with hybrid mode.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Anyone have an opinion on the EVGA individually sleeved cable set? Are there better options out there for the price?


My cables arrived yesterday, they are excellent, I didn't still install because anyway I will build new platform soon.
I'M IN ADVANTAGE, I KEPT EVGA TIES FROM NEX1500, xe xexe 3x RED, 3x BLACK AND I WILL USE THEM WITH NEW SLEEVE SET.
YOU CAN'T BYE THEM, THEY CAME WITH NEX1500.
That soon could happen every day if I decide to gave up from USB 3.1 Internal.
My package with cables should arrive long time ago but I told that guy scam me, in package was EVGA Power Supply Cable Set and GSkill 2800 DDR4 4x4 Black kit.
I was so sure that I will not get package and I bought Dominator Platinum 2666 C15 DDR4. Now I have two DDR4 kits, i7-5820K Batch J Malay, I have no idea how they OC, but only I need to decide about motherboard. I was so angry that I couldn't look page with cables or to talk about them because blood pressure jump on 500 Instantly.
And I thought when I build everything I will order them again, but cables arrived.

EVGA will made 1000 T2, I mean PSU is finished almost, case for PSU is presented.
I think many people with 850W units will leave their PSU as backup and upgrade on 1000 T2.
I mean T2 will soon to become as Gold, and that standard I think should stay few years on top.
People are not aware of importance of good PSU. I still meet people with graphics similar to 980/980Ti, i7 PSU but Bronze 750-850 PSU.
That work without problem but it's really question why they didn't choose Gold example.

When we talk about sleeve cables I'm not actually fan of manual sleeve, I don't know, most cables are somehow fat more than I like.
MDPC-X should make little thinner cables 3mm example. not 5 mm. I have 30m at home black and 5-6m SATA I keep that for fans and if need for something.
I like more to everything stay naturally, fabric sleeve with velcro ties and never mind if one wire go over other, I don't like when every wire on own place, that look like girls somehow they made such things...
Same as I don't like PSU cables ribbon only 24 pin from wire. If someone want ribbon, than all cables and 24pin should be ribbon,
if want normal than normal, not mixed.


----------



## MasterBash

I am thinking about buying the SuperNova P2 650W. Another Super flower rebrand. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about that choice? Are they in any form inferior to super flower or is it a 100% rebrand without any modifications to components?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> I am thinking about buying the SuperNova P2 650W. Another Super flower rebrand. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about that choice? Are they in any form inferior to super flower or is it a 100% rebrand without any modifications to components?


can't say if it's 100% the same as I don't know. either way, it's likely a very good psu purchase for $120 (that's the USD price).


----------



## rioja

I have just found that in Germany Super Flower Leadex 80 Plus Titanium 1600 Watt costs 291 EUR + 30 EUR delivery by DHL.

Is it totally the same unit as EVGA 1600 T2, the difference is only in case grill and power cord? Where may I buy another power cord then?

And will be aftermarket cables for EVGA compatible with Super Flower?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> I have just found that in Germany Super Flower Leadex 80 Plus Titanium 1600 Watt costs 291 EUR + 30 EUR delivery by DHL.
> 
> Is it totally the same unit as EVGA 1600 T2, the difference is only in case grill and power cord? Where may I buy another power cord then?
> 
> And will be aftermarket cables for EVGA compatible with Super Flower?


It's 99% identical as they are the sane platform.


----------



## rioja

As for power cord, connector type on PSU is IEC 320 C19, so any cord with this standard should be fine.

And for cables, this is SF 1600 Titanium



And this is EVGA T2 1600



At least externally, connectors and Eco switch are the same.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> I am thinking about buying the SuperNova P2 650W. Another Super flower rebrand. Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about that choice? Are they in any form inferior to super flower or is it a 100% rebrand without any modifications to components?


Do you even need 650 watts? what do you need to power?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> It's 99% identical as they are the sane platform.


They dont use the same fans.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Do you even need 650 watts? what do you need to power?
> They dont use the same fans.


That's why I didn't say 100%


----------



## MasterBash

I dont need 650w. However, that is as low as it gets for a platinum super flower unit if I want stability, good efficiency (it depends on load... I know), low ripple and short. I dont know when the Super Flower titanium 550w is coming out, so I will have to settle for a good unit right now.

My choice is mostly between Seasonic SS-660XP2 or Super Flower 650W (but considering Super Flower is not widely available here, I gotta settle for a rebrand, like the evga supernova p2 650w). Both are pretty even (660xp2 a bit more efficient but more ripple), at this point it would mostly be a question of noise to me.


----------



## looniam

how did you conclude that a fan is 1%?


----------



## TwoCables

To be honest, the only people who really need a PSU that good are professional overclockers who regularly go to overclocking competitions. The rest of us would be just fine with PSUs like EVGA's 'B2' PSUs. Y'know?


----------



## MasterBash

Some people just want the best out there, because money is not an issue for them... I would go for a titanium unit myself but I am also limited by length. Too long like 180mm or more and I wont be able to use a bottom fan in my define r5 (my current one doesnt allow me to use a fan at all, my new gpu is running a bit hot :\)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> Some people just want the best out there, because money is not an issue for them... I would go for a titanium unit myself but I am also limited by length. Too long like 180mm or more and I wont be able to use a bottom fan in my define r5 (my current one doesnt allow me to use a fan at all, my new gpu is running a bit hot :\)


If you live in the US where power is dirt cheap you will save almost nothing by going with better efficiency, in fact you are probably going to spend more getting a platinum / titanium rated unit then you are ever going to save in power.
And 80 plus and efficiency has nothing to do with quality for anyone not already aware.


----------



## MasterBash

Ya I am aware of that. I just keep telling myself... I want... the best... I know I will regret buying my gtx970 eventually and wish i would've bought a 980ti.... I am always like that. =(

No idea why, I do know there are a few people worse than me when it comes to that kind of stuff, lol. I dont brag about my computers really... Its just some kind of personal satisfaction.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> Ya I am aware of that. I just keep telling myself... I want... the best... I know I will regret buying my gtx970 eventually and wish i would've bought a 980ti.... I am always like that. =(
> 
> No idea why, I do know there are a few people worse than me when it comes to that kind of stuff, lol.


Why would you regret buying a GTX 970? its pretty much the best bang for buck card Nvidia sells and its not slow or bad, if its not fast enough add another GTX 970 and run SLI.
A GTX 970 SLI setup is going be better and faster then a single GTX 980 Ti so you pay almost the same amount but you get a faster setup.

And almost all of those myths about SLI are false by the way.
I have a GTX 970 SLI setup and i have been very happy with it, i have only found one game where SLI does not work.


----------



## MasterBash

No idea, its irrational in my case. I guess its some kind of passion about having built an amazing computer? I really dont know.

But thinking about it, the 980ti wasnt out at the time of my purchase, so I wont regret it unless it lags (havent noticed any yet).

I am sorry, I am kinda going off topic now. lol.

If you had to choose between 2, Seasonic SS-660XP or EVGA SuperNova P2 650W, which one would you prefer?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> No idea, its irrational in my case. I guess its some kind of passion about having built an amazing computer? I really dont know.
> 
> But thinking about it, the 980ti wasnt out at the time of my purchase, so I wont regret it unless it lags (havent noticed any yet).
> 
> I am sorry, I am kinda going off topic now. lol.
> 
> If you had to choose between 2, Seasonic SS-660XP or EVGA SuperNova P2 650W, which one would you prefer?


The P2 as its cheaper and has lower ripple.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> No idea, its irrational in my case. I guess its some kind of passion about having built an amazing computer? I really dont know.
> 
> But thinking about it, the 980ti wasnt out at the time of my purchase, so I wont regret it unless it lags (havent noticed any yet).
> 
> I am sorry, I am kinda going off topic now. lol.
> 
> If you had to choose between 2, Seasonic SS-660XP or EVGA SuperNova P2 650W, which one would you prefer?


I would get one with maximum power available in 160mm size and with semi-passive mode.

My current Seasonic X850 KM3 Gold can handle maximum load of 900w and works fanless on load less than 450w.


----------



## rioja

Btw in this video on 8:10




Super Flower 1600 Titanium has load of 1220w and fun is still not started! This is really impressive, it means you may run two 295X2 in fanless mode


----------



## shilka

Please dont multi post if you have more to add please use the edit function or use multi quote.


----------



## MasterBash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> I would get one with maximum power available in 160mm size and with semi-passive mode.
> 
> My current Seasonic X850 KM3 Gold can handle maximum load of 900w and works fanless on load less than 450w.


Why? My system doesnt use all that much. From reading around, it appears that power supplies are more efficient at around 50%. Not only that, but computer parts are becoming more and more efficient. I think evga says 45C as the starting point of the fan so I dont think the load will have anything to do with it.

I dont think 850w would be good for me.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> Why? My system doesnt use all that much. From reading around, it appears that power supplies are more efficient at around 50%. Not only that, but computer parts are becoming more and more efficient. I think evga says 45C as the starting point of the fan so I dont think the load will have anything to do with it.
> 
> I dont think 850w would be good for me.


I agree if you are never going to need it why spend the money in the first place.

And please dont use that pathetic excuse called future proof, i am so sick and tired of hearing that stupid word/concept.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterBash*
> 
> Why? My system doesnt use all that much. From reading around, it appears that power supplies are more efficient at around 50%. Not only that, but computer parts are becoming more and more efficient. I think evga says 45C as the starting point of the fan so I dont think the load will have anything to do with it.
> 
> I dont think 850w would be good for me.


Because if you will decide to add second 970 later, you need replace power supply again









Efficiency is near the same at 20, 50 and 100% as it stated in standard itself.

And I don't see any evidence that high-end hardware goes to lower consumption. Last Fury X even went to watercooling by default

And this is how reviewers explain most dramatic question in this thread
Quote:


> The question remains, why on earth would you need 1,600 watts of power in the first place? Well for those people running ultra high end systems with multiple AMD graphics cards, the demand can be surprisingly high. We measured a demand of close to 1,200 watts when we reviewed a system featuring two AMD R9 295X2's, for instance. At 1,250 watts demand the Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W is still running with over 93 percent efficiency, which is impressive.


----------



## Desolutional

The 980 Ti when OCed beats the 970 SLI and without any of the inherent issues SLI presents to the system. This is the stock 980 Ti vs 970 SC SLI: 




The MSI 980Ti Gaming 6G or G1 Gaming 980Ti when OCed beyond factory OC, easily beat the 970 SLI due to the fact that SLI does not scale linearly, even in the latest and greatest games, TW3 being a valid example. Going slightly OT, I'd highly recommend if you're planning on going dual 970s, don't and get a 980 Ti instead. If you already have 970 SLI, then don't worry about trading in for a 980 Ti, because you will end up losing more money for only a slight advantage at 1080p and a decent advantage at 4K (no microstutter, 6GB of VRAM, lower case temps, lower power consumption and never having to worry about if a game supports SLI profiles or not). The 850W should be fine for 3-way 970 SLI, and 650W should be fine for 2-way 970 SLI, giving you additional headroom to OC some.


----------



## TwoCables

The average system that has an overclocked mainstream CPU and two GTX 970s at stock can easily run on a good quality-made 550W PSU.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The average system that has an overclocked mainstream CPU and two GTX 970s at stock can easily run on a good quality-made 550W PSU.


This

Again you dont know what you are talking about (not you TwoCables)


----------



## TwoCables

Most people don't though when it comes to PSUs due to the incessant and overwhelming amount of brainwashing that both the PSU industry and retailers love to do. It causes them to make more and more money. So, it's extremely harsh to just outright tell someone that they don't know what they're talking about when it comes to PSUs. *It's not their fault.* You have to keep this in mind every single day, 24/7. When you encounter someone who doesn't have correct PSU-related knowledge, IT'S NOT THEIR FAULT.

It's extremely rude for a PSU expert to lose their patience with someone who doesn't have accurate PSU-related knowledge (or with someone who has none at all). Often, a person who believes false information to be a fact will present it as such. If you patiently correct them, then they will listen to you. You can NEVER blame them for being wrong. That's pretty much rule #1 when teaching people. *It's never the person's fault for needing proper education on the subject matter.* A person will never want to listen to you if all you do is tell them that they don't know what they're talking about. You can't even say that. Just be their friend.


----------



## shilka

Watch all of these and you will see the truth you will also see that power draws have not changed for many years.
And power draws are also far lower then you think they are.

Most systems with a single video card in it dont draw more then 250-350 watts this is a fact, its only if you volt mod the BIOS on the video card(s) that they will draw more.
Add another card and you are still only at 450-650 watts at most (depends on the config), unless again volt mods on the BIOS of the video card(s).

As TwoCables said anyone that says otherwise have been brainwashed by the industry.


----------



## TwoCables

Or taught by someone who doesn't have their facts straight. A person with incorrect information can't be blamed for being wrong. No one intentionally learns fiction in order to present it as fact, except for true trolls, but those people are obvious. LOL


----------



## shilka

Power draws have stayed the same or gone down for years, anyone remember the Geforce 8800 series? or the newer 200 and 400 series? those where power hogs and the cards we have today draw less then those did


----------



## VSG

Man you are extremely stubborn and being negative here, sorry for saying this. I am going to be unsubbing from this thread now, can't take any more of this.


----------



## TwoCables

This is what I'm talking about: the negativity. It needs to stop. It's even driving *me* a bit nuts. You gotta stop coming at people as though they're stupid just because they're wrong. You need to learn how to take people under your wing and teach them.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> *Power draws have stayed the same or gone down for years*, anyone remember the Geforce 8800 series? or the newer 200 and 400 series? those where power hogs and the cards we have today draw less then those did


This is because manufacturers find the sweet spot, and each time the size of transistors decreases, they increase the number of transistors to increase performance. If you want power draw to decrease you must sacrifice performance; many consumers wouldn't do that as they want maximum performance. This <250W GPU consumption is the sweet spot for many manufacturers and most common wattages of PSU. Users also want to overclock too, so that increases power draw for the whole system. 80% load is a nice PSU load giving a little extra headroom for extreme applications, i.e. Prime95 AVX 2.0, Furmark or Delta Fans - remember, people also want to upgrade their rigs with extra case fans and fan controllers, although their power consumption is smaller, when summed up, they do contribute to the power consumption.

Just *one* of my Delta's consumes 35W at max load. Also I like using Delta's cause it makes my rig sound like an aggressive Fighter Jet or Vacuum Cleaner. This 35W is sustained load, not a peak load. If you're running 3 Delta's at medium load that comes up to 30W, assuming 10W per fan.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> how did you conclude that a fan is 1%?


Because I'm not going to count all 100+ parts and then figure out exactly how many components they changed from the Leadex to the EVGA series....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If you live in the US where power is dirt cheap you will save almost nothing by going with better efficiency, in fact you are probably going to spend more getting a platinum / titanium rated unit then you are ever going to save in power.
> And 80 plus and efficiency has nothing to do with quality for anyone not already aware.


No but if you are talking about the same platform it does imply a very slightly better build. It needs tighter efficiencies which means better power (not that the G2 series is bad compared to the T2).


----------



## SteezyTN

Every time I ask a question, it honestly feels like I am being attacked by him. He's helpful at times, but he kind of makes me feel stupid, you know? He needs to realize that most people don't leave their systems at stock.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Every time I ask a question, it honestly feels like I am being attacked by him. He's helpful at times, but he kind of makes me feel stupid, you know? He needs to realize that most people don't leave their systems at stock.


In my friend's defense, his apartment sucks. It's always extremely hot in there, and so he has to keep his windows open. His windows don't have screens on them, and so he frequently has unwanted non-human visitors, including stray cats that jump in next to him and scare the crap out of him in total darkness. Why total darkness? Lights produce heat.

So, I'd be quite cranky all the time myself. Actually, I'd always be quite pissed off and I'd probably get banned from being an a-hole to everyone.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> how did you conclude that a fan is 1%?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because I'm not going to count all 100+ parts and then figure out exactly how many components they changed from the Leadex to the EVGA series....
Click to expand...

i was just teasing, i thought your reply was intentionally amusing - please don't take anything i say serious unless it's answering question/helping.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Every time I ask a question, it honestly feels like I am being attacked by him. He's helpful at times, but he kind of makes me feel stupid, you know? He needs to realize that most people don't leave their systems at stock.


it's a viking thing:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i was just teasing, i thought your reply was intentionally amusing - please don't take anything i say serious unless it's answering question/helping.
> it's a viking thing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Aye didn't realize it was a joke.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This is what I'm talking about: the negativity. It needs to stop. It's even driving *me* a bit nuts. You gotta stop coming at people as though they're stupid just because they're wrong. You need to learn how to take people under your wing and teach them.


Like throw them into a freezing lake to teach them swim?









Hey at least I see I'm not the only that can't read the same ... questions over and over again and give the same answer again and again. Read before you ask people. Most threads on OCN simply repeat the same Q&A page by page, read a few of them along with the OP, think = use your brain and you've got your answer right there.

Also, agree to disagree, don't argue endlessly








Take it or leave it. You want to buy an oversized inefficient PSU, go right ahead, it's your money being wasted but nature of us all.


----------



## MasterBash

So I read around a bit... It seems some people dont enjoy the length of the cables in EVGA Super Flower P2 units. They seem to find them a bit too long. Does anyone have anything to say about the cables? Do they get in the way?

Second, if I were to have problems with the cables, is there any sites I can buy custom cables for evga psu?

Thanks.


----------



## Kimir

I guess it depend on your case, long cable can be needed in some case.
EVGA carry their own sleeved cables as well as cablemod.


----------



## JackCY

What P2 units? I bet it's the same as G2s. 700-750mm for EPS. And G2s are just right, fine for middle tower and probably ok for full tower.
Seasonic G SS-RM are freakin' tight/short (540mm) even for middle tower.
It's simple to measure what you will need for your case. And it's always better to have more than to have short cables.

Cables don't get in the way if you can do cable management.

2-3 custom cable sets are available for EVGA/SF non lit connectors.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thought I'd update everyone on my PSU situation. Ordered the 650W G2 and it turned up Friday. Installed and all is well with the PC. Glad it didn't destroy any other components.


----------



## Archea47

For a point of reference as to why some of us want 1300+W PSUs ...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1436497/official-amd-r9-290x-290-owners-club/33420#post_23296223

tsm106 with two overclocked 290Xs and CPU @ 5GHz (and the rest of components powered by a second PSU) saw ~1600W at the wall

Not everyone is running high overclocks, but some of us are. For me 5GHz is my safe & daily clock and I've pushed my GPUs almost as far as him, and plan to once I finish the new system for enhanced cooling. For us crazies with 15 3000RPM fans etc. this is the reality we work with.

I like how tsm sums it up:
Quote:


> Lmao. THis surprised me a bit because I hadn't actually run this specific test till now. 1537w at the wall lol. 1537*.87=1337w. I guess I am over running my psu.
> 
> Long story short, you COULD run these cards, rigs in similar low draw setups. And yet on the flipside you can also run them balls to the wall.
> 
> Thus how do you make a recommendation? For the low end only? That would mean you won't ever get to oc balls to the walls? Are you guys ok with that? Personally, I wouldn't be because I don't want to be limited in what I can do.


---
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Anyone have an opinion on the EVGA individually sleeved cable set? Are there better options out there for the price?


I have them on my G2 1300W and I like them (see sig rig Icarus Wings). They're missing the capacitors that the stock cables have and I've heard that the ripple? performance is worse with the custom cables. They do look very nice though and route & bend well. They were also much cheaper than the other pre-sleeved options I saw at the time


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> For a point of reference as to why some of us want 1300+W PSUs ...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1436497/official-amd-r9-290x-290-owners-club/33420#post_23296223
> 
> tsm106 with two overclocked 290Xs and CPU @ 5GHz (and the rest of components powered by a second PSU) saw ~1600W at the wall
> 
> Not everyone is running high overclocks, but some of us are. For me 5GHz is my safe & daily clock and I've pushed my GPUs almost as far as him, and plan to once I finish the new system for enhanced cooling. For us crazies with 15 3000RPM fans etc. this is the reality we work with.
> 
> I like how tsm sums it up:


Aren't those 290X Lightnings that he was using? Those things can draw some serious power. I know my 2x 980 Ti reference cards draw slightly less power at 1540/7600 than my 980 KPEs did at 1600/8000. I remember seeing 1050w at the wall for KPEs and my Ti's at 1000w. I only ever had one MSI Lightning 290X and it was with a 4.7 GHz 4790K and that drew over 750w from the wall (1250/1650 clocks IIRC, max voltages in AB).


----------



## shilka

The Kingpin and Lightnings cards are in a class of their own everyone knows that and i have never treated them as normal cards as they are insane power hogs.
Even a 1600 watt is not overkill when you have two of those.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Like throw them into a freezing lake to teach them swim?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey at least I see I'm not the only that can't read the same ... questions over and over again and give the same answer again and again. Read before you ask people. Most threads on OCN simply repeat the same Q&A page by page, read a few of them along with the OP, think = use your brain and you've got your answer right there.


Some people seriously only have enough time in their busy life to turn their computer on, go online, post a question, and then turn their computer off.


----------



## looniam

no internet for them!


----------



## TwoCables

lol "Come back 1 year!"


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> tsm106 with two overclocked 290Xs and CPU @ 5GHz (and the rest of components powered by a second PSU) saw ~1600W at the wall


What the... 1.6kW at the wall. What on earth... CPU + 2 Graphics Cards... 1.6kW...

I could only guess CPU drew 350W and each GPU drew 500W. That is insane. I can't even start to imagine what the TDP would be like on that rig, might as well go to Antarctica and offer to heat citizens homes free of charge as long as you get to play games.

For reference, the i7-5820K draws a peak of 200W on my rig and averages 180W under Prime95. And this CPU is much better than the 8350 performance wise. I think this is genuinely one of the cases where you would actually save money by going with Intel and nVidia. Heck, the 980 Ti, with a massive GM200 cut core only pumps out 330W when heavily OCed.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> What the... 1.6kW at the wall. What on earth... CPU + 2 Graphics Cards... 1.6kW...
> 
> I could only guess CPU drew 350W and each GPU drew 500W. That is insane. I can't even start to imagine what the TDP would be like on that rig, might as well go to Antarctica and offer to heat citizens homes free of charge as long as you get to play games.
> 
> For reference, the i7-5820K draws a peak of 200W on my rig and averages 180W under Prime95. And this CPU is much better than the 8350 performance wise. I think this is genuinely one of the cases where you would actually save money by going with Intel and nVidia. Heck, the 980 Ti, with a massive GM200 cut core only pumps out 330W when heavily OCed.




Add in more volts + high OC, 500w is nothing.


----------



## cakedude501

Reading some of this stuff here has completely thrown off my previous decision about what PSU to get when I upgrade my desktop, I was orginally debating between the 1000 P2, HX 1000i, and the G2, but seeing some of th enumbers for how much power lightning 290Xs can use in crossfire, I began to lean towards the 1300 G2, since it was bout the same price as the HX 1000i, and I already have 1 290X lightning (not LE) and was considering trying to grab s second used in the future, unless the LE is my only option, then I would upgrade.

I am still in the planning phase, So I may change some ideas, my big thing has been that it needs to be a PSU that I can order custom cables for, So i have been basing my options off of what ensourced makes cables for. Which option would be better considering the circumstances. 1000 watts platinum or 1300 gold? Right now I am leaning towards 1300 G2 but for some reason I have this itch to go platinum, partially for bragging rights.


----------



## TwoCables

Other than partly for bragging rights, why are you interested in Platinum? Efficiency to lower your electrical costs? That's really the only benefit.


----------



## wholeeo

I personally picked the P2 over the G2 due to it being more silent. I've read many user reviews and complaints about the G2 being loud. Being that I watercool, keep my PC on my desk, and keep my GT-15s pretty silent the PSU could easily be the loudest thing in my PC. Some time ago I had to RMA my HX1050 and Corsair sent me an updated replacement(gold version) of the same unit and that thing drove me crazy. After some back and forth and complaining they replaced it with a HX1000i which is dead silent. That was the first and last time I ever heard what a PSU sounds like and I rather not hear what they sound like again.


----------



## cakedude501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Other than partly for bragging rights, why are you interested in Platinum? Efficiency to lower your electrical costs? That's really the only benefit.


That is the bulk of it, to me it is a worthwhile investment, I use my pc a lot for multiple purposes, and as I see it, spending an extra 30$ to get 1000w platinum Is pretty worthwhile, I did the numbers the other day and do not have them on me, but basing off local electric costs and such, the platinum would pay for itself somewhere around the two year mark.

edit: I definitely would prefer something under 20 db, preferably under 15, the fans I plan to use for my loop when I do the upgrade are supposedly 16.7 db, (NB-ELOOP)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cakedude501*
> 
> That is the bulk of it, to me it is a worthwhile investment, I use my pc a lot for multiple purposes, and as I see it, spending an extra 30$ to get 1000w platinum Is pretty worthwhile, I did the numbers the other day and do not have them on me, but basing off local electric costs and such, the platinum would pay for itself somewhere around the two year mark.


Whoa.

I'm glad that this is the reason because it seems that these days, most people think that the higher the 80+ Certification is, the higher the quality of the PSU is.


----------



## cakedude501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whoa.
> 
> I'm glad that this is the reason because it seems that these days, most people think that the higher the 80+ Certification is, the higher the quality of the PSU is.


To tell the truth, the HX100i Is only $10 more than the 1300G2, but I still need to look at a few more reviews and try to get an idea of the quality difference between it and the P2. The numbers were done with no overclocking, so I can expect that to pay itself off faster when I OC.


----------



## JackCY

Use fanless mode, that's the only decent noise killer. 1300 G2 and 1000 G2 EVGA don't have fanless, only SF version has it.

I've yet to hear a fan that is below 20dB, especially in a high power PSU







Spinning that is. Stationary, sure.
Different fan models and brands give you only a fraction of potential noise reduction. Unless one compares to some awful old fans.


----------



## cakedude501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Use fanless mode, that's the only decent noise killer. 1300 G2 and 1000 G2 EVGA don't have fanless, only SF version has it.
> 
> I've yet to hear a fan that is below 20dB, especially in a high power PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spinning that is. Stationary, sure.
> Different fan models and brands give you only a fraction of potential noise reduction. Unless one compares to some awful old fans.


The noise is not the end of the world, I wonder if it is possible to replace the fan with something more silent... I will look into that in the future, thank for all the help, I think I will definitely go platinum PSU.


----------



## SteezyTN

So I'm just curious. Would the 1300G2 be enough for three Titan X's overclocked? Not that I'm going three way, but I plan on keeping my cards while I'm finishing off school. So that'll be about 4 more years. By then TX's will probably cheap used, and I may pick one up lol


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> So I'm just curious. Would the 1300G2 be enough for three Titan X's overclocked? Not that I'm going three way, but I plan on keeping my cards while I'm finishing off school. So that'll be about 4 more years. By then TX's will probably cheap used, and I may pick one up lol


as long as the rest of your components draw less than 220 watts you should be good.


----------



## JackCY

You can always replace a fan in any device where the fan can be accessed. Losing warranty is probably why you won't. Otherwise the act is fairly simple.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Currently looking at upgrading my TX650w V2 and would like some advice, I can either get the EVGA P1200w or the Super Flower SF-1200F14MP

What are the differences between these units as the leadex one is around half the price of the EVGA


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Currently looking at upgrading my TX650w V2 and would like some advice, I can either get the EVGA P1200w or the Super Flower SF-1200F14MP
> 
> What are the differences between these units as the leadex one is around half the price of the EVGA


The EVGA use a cheaper fan and it does not have lights in the PSU ports, if the Leadex is cheaper there is zero reason to go with a P2 as the Leadex is better.
Do you even need 1200 watts what are you going to power?


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The EVGA use a cheaper fan and it does not have lights in the PSU ports, if the Leadex is cheaper there is zero reason to go with a P2 as the Leadex is better.
> Do you even need 1200 watts what are you going to power?


I will be powering a heavily OC'd 4960x with either SLI ot Tri-SLI GTX 980 Ti Kingpins/HoF LN2's (if I can find them)

*:::EDIT:::*

Can you turn off the port lighting ? ... Also, the reason I am looking at the 1200w is because I can get it at the same price as the 850w


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I will be powering a heavily OC'd 4960x with either SLI ot Tri-SLI GTX 980 Ti Kingpins/HoF LN2's (if I can find them)
> 
> *:::EDIT:::*
> 
> Can you turn off the port lighting ? ... Also, the reason I am looking at the 1200w is because I can get it at the same price as the 850w


1200 watts is not enough if you 3 of those cards you need to aim for the 1600 watt Leadex, and no that one does not have any lights in it.
Hell those cards are so insane the 1600 watt Leadex might not even be enough for 3x of them.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 1200 watts is not enough if you 3 of those cards you need to aim for the 1600 watt Leadex, and no that one does not have any lights in it.
> Hell those cards are so insane the 1600 watt Leadex might not even be enough for 3x of them.


Well I can't afford 3 of them at the moment ... will be buying one within the next month or so ... then another later in the year ... ... I don't know if I will get a 3rd ... we will see (my chassis is not made for 3way)

Will the 1200 be enough for sli ?


----------



## Kimir

It should be fine as long as you don't go over 1.35v on the graphic cards. (voltage scaling being horrible on 980Ti, you shouldn't need to tbh).


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Well I can't afford 3 of them at the moment ... will be buying one within the next month or so ... then another later in the year ... ... I don't know if I will get a 3rd ... we will see (my chassis is not made for 3way)
> 
> Will the 1200 be enough for sli ?


1200 watts is more then enough as long as you dont push the cards as far as they can go.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It should be fine as long as you don't go over 1.35v on the graphic cards. (voltage scaling being horrible on 980Ti, you shouldn't need to tbh).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 1200 watts is more then enough as long as you dont push the cards as far as they can go.


The first card will be pushed to the max on air ... the second will be added later and both will be put under water and pushed as far as 660mm of rad space will allow ... haha

Thanks for all the information guys









1 last thing, I see the superflower has bad voltage regulation ... is there maybe a better 1200w I should look at ? ... (1600w is way out of my budget)


----------



## JackCY

That's probably the point though, why else get some insane cards. With insane cards you need an insane PSU and an AC in the room or you will get roasted.

What do you mean bad voltage regulation? XD
Yeah sure it doesn't do 12.00V from 10% to 12.00V at 100% load, but it's well in the excellent or very good range to not have to bother you I think. Plus I would rather have better ripple than more regulated voltage level. The voltages get reduced for CPU/GPU down to 1.2Vish anyway, voltage regulation across load out of the PSU not being that important if it's 12.10V or 11.90V.

3way in full blast all it can give won't go well on 1200W. 2way, fine. (Talking about 400-500W cards here not the average user with 250W cards.)
If your cards have 8+8+6pin then you will need a massive PSU as these cards eat like a pig on full blast.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> 1 last thing, I see the superflower has bad voltage regulation ... is there maybe a better 1200w I should look at ? ... (1600w is way out of my budget)


If you are talking about this then it does not matter the least as that rail is used to turn on your motherboard and nothing else.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> That's probably the point though, why else get some insane cards. With insane cards you need an insane PSU and an AC in the room or you will get roasted.
> 
> What do you mean bad voltage regulation? XD
> Yeah sure it doesn't do 12.00V from 10% to 12.00V at 100% load, but it's well in the excellent or very good range to not have to bother you I think. Plus I would rather have better ripple than more regulated voltage level. The voltages get reduced for CPU/GPU down to 1.2Vish anyway, voltage regulation across load out of the PSU not being that important if it's 12.10V or 11.90V.
> 
> 3way in full blast all it can give won't go well on 1200W. 2way, fine. (Talking about 400-500W cards here not the average user with 250W cards.)
> If your cards have 8+8+6pin then you will need a massive PSU as these cards eat like a pig on full blast.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thats a load of bull where have you seen that?
> If you are talking about this then it does not matter the least as that rail is used to turn on your motherboard and nothing else.


I was actually talking about that exact graph ... haha

Thanks so much ... I just placed the order for the PSU ... Will get it in the first week of August (stupid import delays)

Now lets just hope I can get the Kingpin delivered to my country ...


----------



## shilka

Quote from Phaedrus2129
On PSU Voltages

+5VSB
Nominal value: 5.00V
Allowed voltage variation: +/-10%, 4.50V - 5.50V
Preferred voltage variation: +/-3%, 4.75V - 5.25V
Allowed ripple: <120mV
Preferred ripple: <50mV
Info: The +5VSB is an often overlooked, but still quite important rail. It doesn't provide much power; rarely more than ~1.5A (7.5W) at the absolute most. However, this is the rail that keeps runs the circuitry that starts your motherboard, and powers the memory that stores the date and time and BIOS settings. Its power rating should not be added to the PSU's total output rating.
It powers:
Motherboard start-up circuitry
BIOS ROM
CMOS RAM
Charges CMOS battery

If you look at that graph you will se that everything on that list is at 1,69% or higher even the AX1200i and thats because regulation on that rail does not matter a whole lot.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quick question ...

Is the sleeving on the Superflower unit really as horrible as the review from OC3DTV shows ? ... man that sleeving and those connectors are horrid !


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> Quick question ...
> 
> Is the sleeving on the Superflower unit really as horrible as the review from OC3DTV shows ? ... man that sleeving and those connectors are horrid !


They look like this

And i did tell you that the Leadex had lights in the PSU cable ports and no you cant turn them off.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> They look like this
> 
> And i did tell you that the Leadex had lights in the PSU cable ports and no you cant turn them off.


The sleeving is pretty poor on those ... hmmm ...

Sorry ... I missed where you mentioned you can't turn them off


----------



## JackCY

Poor? As in not gold sleeved or I don't know. Sure individual sleeving is easier to bend but bulkier and only available from 3rd parties and costs as much as the PSU itself.
Who's got better sleeving on PSUs? Especially when it's with caps?

You can always resleeve it if you want, desolder the LEDs, swap the fan, whatever, paint it pink.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, that's standard sleeving. It's not intended to look custom or anything. It's among the best standard sleeving I've seen though.


----------



## shilka

If you call that poor sleeving you have not seen poor sleeving as that is some of the best standard sleeving around.
Think you got way too high expectations and you need to lower them, or you can just replace the cables if you dont like them.

You are nitpicking on tiny things.


----------



## JackCY

Is all you will see of the cables anyway. Sure the ATX is not the prettiest but it's wide and without splitting it into at least two it's difficult to sleeve it tight to the wide connector.
Individual sleeving takes up more space and I find the price tag on it ridiculous. Sleeves themselves cost mere cents, hell a couple dollars for the whole cable set. Yet an individual sleeved cable set sells close to $100, those cables better be silver and not copper then







Silicon wrapped cables, no melty plastic, teflon sleeving, now we are talking


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I have seen sleeving on the higher end Antec/Corsair and EVGA units ... those look really good ... ... I appreciate the black wires on the SF at least


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*
> 
> I have seen sleeving on the higher end Antec/Corsair and EVGA units ... those look really good ... ... I appreciate the black wires on the SF at least


Wait, higher-end Corsair? You mean the ribbon types? Haaa.....no.

Corsair's marketing doing its job here. Ribbon cable =! Good. Plus, they didn't even make an effort to sleeve. At least techflex requires you to put it over the cable and tape it down.


----------



## JackCY

Anyone who remembers the PATA ribbon cable will not touch a ribbon cable ever again


----------



## tabascosauz

I'd gladly touch a PATA cable again, as long as it means that I'll never have to touch an RM series PSU cable again.

I'm pretty disappointed that XFX's bronze TS550 has switched to all ribbon sans 24-pin. I have an older one from last year that's still wrapped in nice soft techflex. It's a shame that I had to wrestle with this new one in my SG08 build of all things. Last year's was a bliss.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Anyone who remembers the PATA ribbon cable will not touch a ribbon cable ever again


In all seriousness though, those ribbon PSU cables can be superior for cable management for bending them around corners cleanly and flatly.


----------



## ansha

Just got my new 750W G2. Immediately noticed something interesting - there is only one main capacitor on the input side, a 680uf one. All the reviews show units with two mains 330uf each.

Is this a more recent batch or something?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> In all seriousness though, those ribbon PSU cables can be superior for cable management for bending them around corners cleanly and flatly.


Until you need to bend in the other direction. Which is a lot. Twist and twist and twist. I didn't like them on Seasonic.
And I hate the flat hard SATA above all. Small but a pain to twist and bend.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> Just got my new 750W G2. Immediately noticed something interesting - there is only one main capacitor on the input side, a 680uf one. All the reviews show units with two mains 330uf each.
> 
> Is this a more recent batch or something?


850 G2 has 330+390uF.
Maybe they managed to get a single large 680uF that is not enormous and fits into the space below fan.
Minor revisions always happen, individual parts are not always constant.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Until you need to bend in the other direction. Which is a lot. Twist and twist and twist. I didn't like them on Seasonic.
> And I hate the flat hard SATA above all. Small but a pain to twist and bend.
> 850 G2 has 330+390uF.
> Maybe they managed to get a single large 680uF that is not enormous and fits into the space below fan.
> Minor revisions always happen, individual parts are not always constant.


I guess it depends on your style and maybe partly on your motherboard. For me, they worked very well.


----------



## Desolutional

I try to justify my 1300 G2's red cables by theming by build Red, Blue and White... which coincidentally matches up with the Union Flag. Saying that, I wonder how expensive a user switchable multi-coloured LED 200mm performance fan would cost.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> I try to justify my 1300 G2's red cables by theming by build Red, Blue and White... which coincidentally matches up with the Union Flag. Saying that, I wonder how expensive a user switchable multi-coloured LED 200mm performance fan would cost.


There are no good 200mm fans they all suck so dont bother you are better off with dual 120 or 140mm fans.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> There are no good 200mm fans they all suck so dont bother you are better off with dual 120 or 140mm fans.


Lol I would have done that, but I already bought myself Spectre PROs a while ago. The main issue I have with case fans is that they're so damn expensive - the same price as a pair of jeans on sale or a nice shirt, in the UK. I've got 4x140mm and 3x200mm in my rig at the moment, excluding the rad fans (2x140mm Corsair SP140s). The thing is, I only have 2 high performance 140mm ones (Phanteks), and one Spectre Pro 200mm; the rest are all OEM NZXTs. The challenge will be cooling my 980 Ti when I eventually buy one - PSU barely puts out any heat so that is sitting nice and cool at the bottom of my rig. HDDs stay nice and cool too as I have a push fan set up to cool them.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Lol I would have done that, but I already bought myself Spectre PROs a while ago. The main issue I have with case fans is that they're so damn expensive - the same price as a pair of decent jeans in the UK.


I had those Spectre Pro fans myself and i hated them, they dont move all that much air yet they make a lot of noise compared to how little they actually move.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I had those Spectre Pro fans myself and i hated them, they dont move all that much air yet they make a lot of noise compared to how little they actually move.


Heat isn't an issue for me, I can handle up to 1600 RPM on 120mm and 1400RPM on 140mm (these 200mm only reach 800RPM), but at that speed they should be pulling a lot of air away from my rig. I guess I'll have to take another look at CFM and Static Pressure and then work out where to go from there. When my SP140s go over 1300RPM they sound pretty annoying though.


----------



## shilka

Bitfenix flatout lie about their fan specs, i have seen some tests where they showed those fans and what they moved and it was nowhere near what Bitfenix claims they are.
It was a while ago can i cant recall where i saw it so i cant even show you.

As i had themself and i have compared them to Noctua fans i can say that they really are nowhere close to what Bitfenix claim they are.
They suck more butt then air.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Bitfenix flatout lie about their fan specs, i have seen some tests where they showed those fans and what they moved and it was nowhere near what Bitfenix claims they are.
> It was a while ago can i cant recall where i saw it so i cant even show you.
> 
> As i had themself and i have compared them to Noctua fans i can say that they really are nowhere close to what Bitfenix claim they are.
> They suck more butt then air.


Maybe they were testing the fans with this: 




The issue I have with Noctuas is that they're the most expensive fans over here. I did see that they're planning to release the A series 200mm fan soon; but I can shove 2x140mm in the front intake to replace my current 200mm one. I think I'm going to go for a static pressure one as I have a dust filter and filter mesh over the intake at the moment.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Bitfenix flatout lie about their fan specs, i have seen some tests where they showed those fans and what they moved and it was nowhere near what Bitfenix claims they are.
> It was a while ago can i cant recall where i saw it so i cant even show you.
> 
> As i had themself and i have compared them to Noctua fans i can say that they really are nowhere close to what Bitfenix claim they are.
> They suck more butt then air.





Spoiler: Benchmarks














Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Maybe they were testing the fans with this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The issue I have with Noctuas is that they're the most expensive fans over here. I did see that they're planning to release the A series 200mm fan soon; but I can shove 2x140mm in the front intake to replace my current 200mm one. I think I'm going to go for a static pressure one as I have a dust filter and filter mesh over the intake at the moment.


My issue with Noctuas is that they are so ugly. I know that the color is their signature look but...


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> My issue with Noctuas is that they are so ugly. I know that the color is their signature look but...


Definitely, they end up looking massively out of place in a black and white sig build and I'm fairly sure it would be quite difficult to respray them too.


----------



## shilka

Noctua has both grey and black fans now so thats an old excuse.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Noctua has both grey and black fans now so thats an old excuse.


And also louder than their counterparts...


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> And also louder than their counterparts...


The black ones yes but not the grey ones as far as i know.


----------



## JackCY

No just a 1 step older Noctua technology on the redux series. Maybe even some current regular Noctuas still use that if they weren't updated recently. And you don't get the extra accessories, at least not as much which IMHO you don't need anyway, like splitters and what not. Get a splitter from eBay for a $1 instead. How is the Redux series louder? Same fan blade design, same size, same rpms, I wanna see/hear that test, Redux vs regular Noctua.
The fan shapes and technologies don't play as big a part as one would like to think. Sure some do help in terms of where the flow is exhausted and if there is unnecessary noise but otherwise the main performance comes from size and rpms. Faster, bigger, more power.

If one wants a quiet fan, just get any that doesn't click and is of decent build, run it low rpm and there you go. I bet in a blind test you wouldn't hear the difference at 500rpm compared to a Noctua fan and the airflow difference is going to be negligible.

IPPC is an industrial like fan, obviously 2-3k rpm is loud


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> IPPC is an industrial like fan, obviously 2-3k rpm is loud


You haven't heard Delta's at full pelt: some of those can easily exceed 4500RPM at 12cm diameter. Also the redux series looks nice, didn't look at that before.


----------



## sahafiec

I'm not coming too late, am I?


----------



## shilka

You have been added to the list.


----------



## julizs

Couple of days ago I bought a g2 1000, now i have to ask...i just tested the psu with the included psu tester, and the fan seems to ramp up to like 1000 rpm (also felt with the hand, huge airflow), even though there is almost no power draw. It is the loudest part of my rig.

Is this normal, will this be my idle noise level? I thought the fan would be like 500 rpm when there is only low power draw.

Or is the psu tester simulating high power draw?


----------



## Rahldrac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Couple of days ago I bought a g2 1000, now i have to ask...i just tested the psu with the included psu tester, and the fan seems to ramp up to like 1000 rpm (also felt with the hand, huge airflow), even though there is almost no power draw. It is the loudest part of my rig.
> 
> Is this normal, will this be my idle noise level? I thought the fan would be like 500 rpm when there is only low power draw.
> 
> Or is the psu tester simulating high power draw?


I have the same unit, and it's also the loudest part of my rig. If you can I would advice to trade it in and buy an eco modell.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> I have the same unit, and it's also the loudest part of my rig. If you can I would advice to trade it in and buy an eco modell.


I may do that with my 1300G2. I got it for $149.99 and I'll be running two Titan X's. I'm worried it will be too loud with those. I haven't used it yet because it won't fit in my current case. I may end up returning it to TigerDirect if they let me because I ordered it like last month


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Couple of days ago I bought a g2 1000, now i have to ask...i just tested the psu with the included psu tester, and the fan seems to ramp up to like 1000 rpm (also felt with the hand, huge airflow), even though there is almost no power draw. It is the loudest part of my rig.
> 
> Is this normal, will this be my idle noise level? I thought the fan would be like 500 rpm when there is only low power draw.
> 
> Or is the psu tester simulating high power draw?


yes this is normal. the 1000 and 1300 G2 aren't quiet psus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I may do that with my 1300G2. I got it for $149.99 and I'll be running two Titan X's. I'm worried it will be too loud with those. I haven't used it yet because it won't fit in my current case. I may end up returning it to TigerDirect if they let me because I ordered it like last month


you still haven't even seen if that thing works or how the fan sounds yet? paper clip test.


----------



## julizs

Damn it, I knew I should haven taken the P2 1000 with eco, but it wasn't in stock. I really hope I can trade it for a P2, I bought my G2 directly at EVGA, 1 week ago, with the 50% discount.

Didn't even pay attention that the G2 1000 and G2 1300 are the only ones without eco. They really should update them.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Damn it, I knew I should haven taken the P2 1000 with eco, but it wasn't in stock. I really hope I can trade it for a P2, I bought my G2 directly at EVGA, 1 week ago, with the 50% discount.
> 
> Didn't even pay attention that the G2 1000 and G2 1300 are the only ones without eco. They really should update them.


maybe you can return it, but I doubt you'll be able to use that discount again. you should have gotten the 1050 GS.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> yes this is normal. the 1000 and 1300 G2 aren't quiet psus.
> you still haven't even seen if that thing works or how the fan sounds yet? paper clip test.


I went to hook it up, but I don't feel like tampering with my case to set it up lol. How do I paper clip test it? Does the G2 fan stay at a constant RPM even on heavy load?


----------



## julizs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> maybe you can return it, but I doubt you'll be able to use that discount again. you should have gotten the 1050 GS.


I really hope so. 1050 GS was not available in store (EU).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I went to hook it up, but I don't feel like tampering with my case to set it up lol. How do I paper clip test it? Does the G2 fan stay at a constant RPM even on heavy load?


There is a paperclip included in your package, just connect it to the 24pin, connect power cable, run.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I went to hook it up, but I don't feel like tampering with my case to set it up lol. How do I paper clip test it? Does the G2 fan stay at a constant RPM even on heavy load?


easy, just connect one end to the PS-ON and the other end to any of the ground next to it. on your psu they're all black so use this to find it's location:



I don't know if there's a jumper included in the package as my 1000 P2 didn't have one. the ones after 750/850 and 1200 came with it.


----------



## Blaise170

My 850 G2 has one.


----------



## DR4G00N

The fan on my 1300 G2 hovers around 1450-1500 RPM all the time but I can't hear it over my 2x YL D12SM-12's anyway so I don't care.


----------



## julizs

Why is the fan curve not optimized at all on those two psu's only? Is the fan even PWM?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Why is the fan curve not optimized at all on those two psu's only? Is the fan even PWM?


they were the first two units in the G2 series I believe so things weren't quite ironed out yet. the 1000 P2 is better being very quiet and having the eco mode, but still didn't come with the jumper and still had those red cables. 1200 P2 and 750/850 G2 is when the package got perfected. evrything older than those is rough. the 1300 G2 uses a stronger version of the fan in the 1000 G2, that is to say, it spins faster, thus more noise.


----------



## julizs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> they were the first two units in the G2 series I believe so things weren't quite ironed out yet. the 1000 P2 is better being very quiet and having the eco mode, but still didn't come with the jumper and still had those red cables. 1200 P2 and 750/850 G2 is when the package got perfected. evrything older than those is rough. the 1300 G2 uses a stronger version of the fan in the 1000 G2, that is to say, it spins faster, thus more noise.


Thanks for the clarification, REP+. Weird that they don't update all their psu's to the same level to prevent confusion, i mean there was time enough and product revisions are nothing new.


----------



## Synik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification, REP+. Weird that they don't update all their psu's to the same level to prevent confusion, i mean there was time enough and product revisions are nothing new.


They probably didn't want to deal with backlash of people calling support to replace their old psu with the revised one. My 1600w g2 makes a bit of noise too but not as much as 1300w according to reviews so i would be annoyed with anything noisier. Which is why i skipped the 1300w. Wish the 1200w p2 was available but was sold out at the time and didn't know how long the 50% off would last or if stock would get worse


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Couple of days ago I bought a g2 1000, now i have to ask...i just tested the psu with the included psu tester, and the fan seems to ramp up to like 1000 rpm (also felt with the hand, huge airflow), even though there is almost no power draw. It is the loudest part of my rig.
> 
> Is this normal, will this be my idle noise level? I thought the fan would be like 500 rpm when there is only low power draw.
> 
> Or is the psu tester simulating high power draw?


Around 1000rpm is normal for a 1000W PSU. The minimum for these high power non ECO models is around 1000rpm.
No it simply turns on the PSU same way your mobo does.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Damn it, I knew I should haven taken the P2 1000 with eco, but it wasn't in stock. I really hope I can trade it for a P2, I bought my G2 directly at EVGA, 1 week ago, with the 50% discount.
> 
> Didn't even pay attention that the G2 1000 and G2 1300 are the only ones without eco. They really should update them.


Yeah, it's the most noted and complained thing about in this thread and is apparent in every review that customers don't read either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I went to hook it up, but I don't feel like tampering with my case to set it up lol. How do I paper clip test it? Does the G2 fan stay at a constant RPM even on heavy load?


No, the fans are temperature controlled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> My 850 G2 has one.


Mine too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Why is the fan curve not optimized at all on those two psu's only? Is the fan even PWM?


The fans aren't PWM. PWM fans are actually louder.
The fan curves are optimized to keep the PSU cool and why buy a 1000W PSU if you will run it 100W only. These are built to perform and used to their full potential not idle and idle.


Or get the SF versions those have the fanless mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *julizs*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification, REP+. Weird that they don't update all their psu's to the same level to prevent confusion, i mean there was time enough and product revisions are nothing new.


They get what they order really.

If you like to tinker, as said before you can try adding the switch yourself and see if the boards are equal, I've posted the comparisons before.
This is where the switch normally goes, SW1 SWI or what's the marking next to the fan connector.



The only quieter 1000W+ PSUs are from Corsair and the only from them to consider are the new RMi units. And I'm not sure they have anything above 1000W in RMi. On the other hand Corsair did cook their PSUs almost literally instead of keeping them cool when it came to the semifanless/hybrid models so far.

1000W even with good efficiency is still a lot of heat to be dissipated in the PSU. Even more in your PC, it's never going to be quiet unless you live in Antarctica and toss the PC outside.


----------



## shilka

Should the OP have a 10 foot neon sign that says the 1000 and 1300 watt G2 does not have hybrid fan mode?
Does no one read any of the links in the OP or the explained thread?

Edit: there everyone cant possibly miss it now.


----------



## looniam

ya know i was thinking how much better the OP would look with some lasers and a few disco balls . . . .


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ya know i was thinking how much better the OP would look with some lasers and a few disco balls . . . .


Wait you can use colors on text right? whats the best color then? pink or neon green or something?


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Wait you can use colors on text right? whats the best color then? pink or neon green or something?


make it rainbow colors and underlined.


----------



## looniam

let your inner freak . . . artist out.


----------



## julizs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Should the OP have a 10 foot neon sign that says the 1000 and 1300 watt G2 does not have hybrid fan mode?
> Does no one read any of the links in the OP or the explained thread?
> 
> Edit: there everyone cant possibly miss it now.


duuude, you need to chill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Around 1000rpm is normal for a 1000W PSU. The minimum for these high power non ECO models is around 1000rpm.
> 
> Yeah, it's the most noted and complained thing about in this thread and is apparent in every review that customers don't read either.
> 
> The fan curves are optimized to keep the PSU cool and why buy a 1000W PSU if you will run it 100W only. These are built to perform and used to their full potential not idle and idle.


I didn't pay much attention to eco mode, because I read that it is better for the longelivety of the components to cool a psu constantly with a low rpm fan instead of having a medium/high temperature fanless one (or eco mode).

What I did not expect was that a 1000W psu at 100W load, aka when i am not gaming or doing something heavy, runs its fan at 1000 rpm, which is probably enough to keep the psu cool at 500W load or more. I thought the curve was balanced way better.

Well at least now I have a psu that idles around freezing point temperature lol


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Should the OP have a 10 foot neon sign that says the 1000 and 1300 watt G2 does not have hybrid fan mode?
> Does no one read any of the links in the OP or the explained thread?
> 
> Edit: there everyone cant possibly miss it now.


Lots of people will use threads like this one as a forum. They come to the thread, ask their question, and leave without ever reading the original post.

You gotta be more forgiving and patient with people.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm going to paper clip test my 1300 G2 later tonight. I was always aware of the "noise" of the fan, so I hope it's decent and not too loud. The fan on my AX860 is pretty quiet until coil whine comes into the mix.

Edit* so I have the 1300 G2 plugged in with just the 24 pin and the connector attached to the end. The fan is actually pretty obnoxious when it's the only thing running, but it'll probably be drowned out when I have all 20 fans running. Honestly, I don't think I'll have an issue with the "loudness" of it. And it really sounds just like my Corsair AF140 at full blast, but slight louder (but not by much). I can't wait till I get my SMA8.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Should the OP have a 10 foot neon sign that says the 1000 and 1300 watt G2 does not have hybrid fan mode?
> Does no one read any of the links in the OP or the explained thread?
> 
> Edit: there everyone cant possibly miss it now.


Yes it should have a big warning sign.
No they don't bother.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ya know i was thinking how much better the OP would look with some lasers and a few disco balls . . . .


Me too. But a neon sign on a bright background doesn't work and I bet if I made it blinky it wouldn't get used








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Lots of people will use threads like this one as a forum. They come to the thread, ask their question, and leave without ever reading the original post.
> 
> You gotta be more forgiving and patient with people.


All threads should be locked for posting until you read the OP









---

Anyway here ya go.


----------



## TwoCables

The problem with doing something like that is, you become even more irritated when people miss it.


----------



## shilka

If they miss it now its not because the info was not there.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If they miss it now its not because the info was not there.


If they miss it, then it's because they're just coming into this thread without reading the original post or any of the posts that have been made and are just treating this thread as a forum for them to ask a question in. Look at this thread and you see it happening nearly every week:

http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies

It happens all the time in huge threads like these.


----------



## shilka

never mind


----------



## julizs

Like I said before, my problem was *NOT* that G2 1000 and G2 1300 don't have eco mode, the problem was that the fan spins at 1000 rpm at idle which is way too high for my taste.

_Maybe I should write that on a neon sign with pink background as well, while we're at it._

Anyway, I will have a look at the P2 1000 now.


----------



## VSG

1600G2 doesn't have eco mode either


----------



## Blaise170

At least you all aren't all using that recommended PSU guide from Newegg from years ago


----------



## Dagamus NM

1K P2 is rather quiet at idle IMO. 1.6K P2 does pretty good too.


----------



## wholeeo

Glad I went with the P2.


----------



## shilka

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=439


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=439


very nice. I'll take one in white.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You gotta be more forgiving and patient with people.


NO people need hit in the head with a 2x4!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The problem with doing something like that is, you become even more irritated when people miss it.


NO, hit them with a 4x4!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> NO people need hit in the head with a 2x4!
> NO, hit them with a 4x4!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


lol Watch where you're swingin' that thing numbskull or I'll tear out your Adam's Apple!


----------



## JackCY

Ban hammer always helps







One hit is all it takes.

---

Shilka: I want one, cut it into three pieces and sell the other two lol


----------



## TwoCables

I was making a 3 Stooges joke. Come on.


----------



## looniam

i'm sure jackCY wasn't being serious.


Spoiler: but if so . .


----------



## TwoCables

hahahaha finally, the 3 Stooges have made it to OCN. 

(I wasn't thinking that he was serious, but just that he might have been missing the joke)


----------



## JackCY

Not familiar with stooges. 2x4 is a 2 inch by 4 inch block of wood to me. Or to make it better a 5x10cm.


----------



## TwoCables

It's common to carry a long 2x4 over your shoulder. If you turn quickly and if the 2x4 is hanging low enough over your shoulder, then you could whack someone in the head with it really easily. This was done in more than one 3 Stooges short, and when they do it, it's damn near piss-your-pants funny. So, "watch where you're swingin' that board, numbskull!"


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Not familiar with stooges.


you poor deprived bloke.


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. I can't imagine not being familiar with The 3 Stooges! So, I'm guessing my User Title goes right past too many people on OCN. :/


----------



## Insan1tyOne

Hello Everyone,

I am just jumping in here to see if any of you can help me with an issue I am currently having. I recently purchased a Refurbished EVGA 120-G1-1000-RX power supply from NewEgg (and sold by NewEgg not a third party dealer) and I have reason to believe that this unit is DOA. It will not allow any machine I have put it in to even power on, nor will it even "idle" while using the included 24-pin testing attachment that shorts the 24-pin to jump-start the unit.

The reason I am asking is because I have never had to deal with a "DOA" product before. Can someone give me a quick rundown of what I should do to get this unit exchanged or RMA'd or something along those lines? Should I contact NewEgg or should I just contact EVGA directly? If so, how would I go about that?

Thanks!

- Insan1tyOne


----------



## looniam

go straight to EVGA. though have a copy of your invoice/bill/email order confirmation from new egg and your serial number ready because they may ask you to register the psu before replacing it.

easy peasy.


----------



## Blaise170

Contact Newegg and get a new one sent to you.


----------



## TwoCables

Call Newegg (don't e-mail them) and tell them that you received a defective power supply. Use that word "defective".


----------



## Insan1tyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> go straight to EVGA. though have a copy of your invoice/bill/email order confirmation from new egg and your serial number ready because they may ask you to register the psu before replacing it.
> 
> easy peasy.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Contact Newegg and get a new one sent to you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Call Newegg (don't e-mail them) and tell them that you received a defective power supply. Use that word "defective".


Hmm, so one vote for get directly into contact with EVGA and two votes for get directly into contact with NewEgg. What is my best bet? Try NewEgg first then try EVGA if that does not work?

- Insan1tyOne


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insan1tyOne*
> 
> Hmm, so one vote for get directly into contact with EVGA and two votes for get directly into contact with NewEgg. What is my best bet? Try NewEgg first then try EVGA if that does not work?
> 
> - Insan1tyOne


You could probably just call Newegg, tell them that your PSU is defective, and then feel them out to see what they do. If it seems like they won't send you a pre-paid shipping label for either a plain return or an exchange, then see if they can do that since they sold you a defective PSU. If they say that they can't do that, then you can just tell them that you'll go directly through EVGA.


----------



## looniam

i've always had a great experience dealing with evga but never dealt with new egg. but if a few members suggest that - i cannot dispute it.


----------



## Insan1tyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You could probably just call Newegg, tell them that your PSU is defective, and then feel them out to see what they do. If it seems like they won't send you a pre-paid shipping label for either a plain return or an exchange, then see if they can do that since they sold you a defective PSU. If they say that they can't do that, then you can just tell them that you'll go directly through EVGA.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i've always had a great experience dealing with evga but never dealt with new egg. but if a few members suggest that - i cannot dispute it.


Thank you all for your help. I will start with NewEgg and then if things are not going as they should I will go directly through EVGA.

- Insan1tyOne


----------



## Blaise170

Whenever I received a defective item I just went to their chat with my order number and I had a new item + promotional gift card a few days later.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sahafiec*
> 
> I'm not coming too late, am I?


Welcome friend. WELCOME!
Your EVGA SuperNOVA KING.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insan1tyOne*
> 
> Thank you all for your help. I will start with NewEgg and then if things are not going as they should I will go directly through EVGA.
> 
> - Insan1tyOne


I'm quite sure that it even said somewhere on EVGA's warranty guidelines to deal directly through them. After all, they have stellar warranty and can't afford to have retailers like Newegg do it. AFAIK there's only one company that tells you to do RMAs through the retailer, and that company is Club3D.


----------



## Insan1tyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> I'm quite sure that it even said somewhere on EVGA's warranty guidelines to deal directly through them. After all, they have stellar warranty and can't afford to have retailers like Newegg do it. AFAIK there's only one company that tells you to do RMAs through the retailer, and that company is Club3D.


I went ahead and got into contact with NewEgg this morning. They processed an RMA for me and said that they were going to send me an email with instructions on what to do along with another email with my pre-paid shipping label. That was about an hour ago and still no email(s) yet, so we shall see I guess.

- Insan1tyOne


----------



## MacG32

EVGA SuperNova 1600 P2


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MacG32*
> 
> EVGA SuperNova 1600 P2


Added to the list.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> I'm quite sure that it even said somewhere on EVGA's warranty guidelines to deal directly through them. After all, they have stellar warranty and can't afford to have retailers like Newegg do it. AFAIK there's only one company that tells you to do RMAs through the retailer, and that company is Club3D.


There may not have been a warranty since it was a refurb.


----------



## looniam

i know backstock carries a year and i figured most where refurbs from the step up program.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insan1tyOne*
> 
> I went ahead and got into contact with NewEgg this morning. They processed an RMA for me and said that they were going to send me an email with instructions on what to do along with another email with my pre-paid shipping label. That was about an hour ago and still no email(s) yet, so we shall see I guess.
> 
> - Insan1tyOne


Nice. That's exactly what I thought was going to happen!

Check your spam folder and junk e-mail folder though.


----------



## cookiesowns

The EVGA 50% off promo with video cards has gotten me tempted.

Anyone know when the 1.6KW T2 is going to be back in stock on the EVGA page? It's been OOS for 2 weeks now..... In stock everywhere else.

Efficiency is fairly important for me, but what are your guises thoughts on the T2 vs the P2? We're talking about a 2-4% difference in efficiency right? But the T2 will most likely be better built and have tighter regulation right...

Decisions.....

Also anyone know if the individually sleeved cables from EVGA for the P2/T2 are using thinner gauge cables or are the the same gauge as the supplied cables?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> The EVGA 50% off promo with video cards has gotten me tempted.
> 
> Anyone know when the 1.6KW T2 is going to be back in stock on the EVGA page? It's been OOS for 2 weeks now..... In stock everywhere else.
> 
> Efficiency is fairly important for me, but what are your guises thoughts on the T2 vs the P2? We're talking about a 2-4% difference in efficiency right? But the T2 will most likely be better built and have tighter regulation right...
> 
> Decisions.....
> 
> Also anyone know if the individually sleeved cables from EVGA for the P2/T2 are using thinner gauge cables or are the the same gauge as the supplied cables?


Efficiency has nothing to do with regulation or ripple so no its not going to better just because it says Titanium on the box.
Titanium units are way overpriced anyway so unless you trying very hard to save power or you are have a system that draws a ton of power dont bother its so little you save that its not worth it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Efficiency has nothing to do with regulation or ripple so no its not going to better.


With his power consumption though, I don't blame him for wanting the power consumption at the wall outlet to be lower - especially if he is paying for that electricity.


----------



## gdubc

Or trying to keep his breaker from tripping, lol.


----------



## Insan1tyOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nice. That's exactly what I thought was going to happen!
> 
> Check your spam folder and junk e-mail folder though.


I received the email shortly after this, then I shipped out the defective unit later last night. My local UPS store has a pick-up at 6:00 PM CST which is pretty nice. Hopefully I will have a working replacement unit back by next weekend.

- Insan1tyOne


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Insan1tyOne*
> 
> I received the email shortly after this, then I shipped out the defective unit later last night. My local UPS store has a pick-up at 6:00 PM CST which is pretty nice. Hopefully I will have a working replacement unit back by next weekend.
> 
> - Insan1tyOne


Wow. You just might!


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Efficiency has nothing to do with regulation or ripple so no its not going to better just because it says Titanium on the box.
> Titanium units are way overpriced anyway so unless you trting very hard to save power or you are have a system that draws a ton of power dont bother its so little you save that its not worth it.


It's $50 more for the T2. Just not in stock. Not really overpriced.

Higher efficiency units are generally better built from my experience. I'm planning on drawing about 1Kw or more after the loop is done and drives are in. Maybe a second card in the future so that will definitely put me towards the 1.3Kw range.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> It's $50 more for the T2. Just not in stock. Not really overpriced.
> 
> Higher efficiency units are generally better built from my experience. I'm planning on drawing about 1Kw or more after the loop is done and drives are in. Maybe a second card in the future so that will definitely put me towards the 1.3Kw range.


The reason why they were better built was that you purchased good units; it wasn't because they had a higher efficiency.


----------



## wermad

Thoughts on b-stock evga? I just rma'd my g1600 but I'm going to a dual psu setup. Thinking of a 750 g as it would barely squeeze in and either a 1300 or 1kw since I have more room to play. Im a little disappointed with the 1 year warranty but it fits my tight budget. Not really interested in a giant 1.6k or 1.5k. I also have the CM v series in mind (ran dual v1000s in the past).


----------



## wholeeo

If any of you guys want a half priced PSU just PM me. I was originally going to purchase another and just profit but I rather help one of you get what you want for less. Coupon is good for one mouse & psu.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> If any of you guys want a half priced PSU just PM me. I was originally going to purchase another and just profit but I rather help one of you get what you want for less. Coupon is good for one mouse & psu.


Pm sent.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quick question. Is the 1600 P2 200mm in length or longer. EVGA states on the website that it's 200mm, but in the photos with it next to the T2 (225mm) and G2 (220mm), they are the same length. So which one is it?


----------



## VSG

The 1600 W units with eco mode switches are ~225mm long, I am pretty sure that is a typo on the product page of the 1600 P2


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The 1600 W units with eco mode switches are ~225mm long, I am pretty sure that is a typo on the product page of the 1600 P2


Yeah I'm looking at images and they look the same when standing next to each other. I'm thinking about getting the 1600 for my two Titan X's and 4770k, and it'd give me more room later down the road if I decide to upgrade the CPU and maybe get a third TX. Or should I just go with the 1200 P2. Both cards will be overvolted to at least 1.3v and 1.31v on the 4770k. The 1600 P2 for is most efficient at around 1000w. Only problem is that I might not fit with a 360 radiator in the Caselabs SMA8. I'm already cutting it close with a 200mm PSU, so I don't think a 220-225mm PSU will fit.


----------



## HiTechPixel

The EVGA 1600W T2 is never in stock for Europe. In fact, I don't think it's ever been in stock. I'm stuck using the Corsair AX1500i


----------



## JackCY

1600 T2 is too new to be found in any shops in EU. Maybe some non EU shops have it but not EU.
You can get the SF 1600W Titanium though, those are in shops in EU.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 1600 T2 is too new to be found in any shops in EU. Maybe some non EU shops have it but not EU.
> You can get the SF 1600W Titanium though, those are in shops in EU.


True but it's an EVGA themed build I'm doing.


----------



## JackCY

Get a custom sticker. EVGA is only selling the SF units anyway, they don't build anything themselves it's just a brand maybe some design not a factory.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Get a custom sticker. EVGA is only selling the SF units anyway, they don't build anything themselves it's just a brand maybe some design not a factory.


Ha! I'm surprised I like that idea. Watch me steal it!







another member made me a custom 1300w EVGA sicker but I like that super flower butterfly. Can anyone confirm if the EVGA units are truly made by super flower, or is it a reference design made by evga's own manufacturer?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Anyone have an opinion on the EVGA individually sleeved cable set? Are there better options out there for the price?


I think the EVGA are the best option For the Price, esp. if not doing it yourself. Check out my sig rig Icarus Wings. My only caveats are 1) that the stock cables have capacitors to deliver better power, aftermarkets don't (someone on here did post a guide resleeving and preserving these) and 2) the EVGA single-sleeve 24-pin Motherboard cable has wires of varying gauge. This probably follows the ATX spec but it doesn't look 100% uniform on a cable comb


----------



## JackCY

I can confirm that SF is the manufacturer. It's in most reviews and PSU lists and I haven't seen EVGA listed as a PSU manufacturer probably ever. They order it and get the boxes. Some are from SF, some from Seasonic, FSP, ...
Or just read the OP








Super Flower Leadex and rebrands/variants club
Quote:


> But before i begin i would like you to read this thread first
> EVGA SuperNova lineup explained
> 
> The Super Flower Leadex is the first ever fully modular platform Super Flower has made and the Leadex platform and the *EVGA rebrands* has with its very low ripple and good quality yet with a very fair price has proven to be quite popular and almost unbeatable in its price range.
> 
> The EVGA G2 / P2 / T2 also come with a massive 10 year warranty, just note that you will NOT get the full 10 year warranty unless you register your PSU and its serial number on the EVGA website within 30 days.
> 
> The Super Flower Leadex comes in 3 main versions one is 80 Plus Gold rated, one is 80 Plus Platinum rated, and the Last one is 80 Plus Titanium rated, they also comes in both white and black for the Gold rated version.
> The EVGA G2 / P2 and T2 fellows the same lineup with one Gold one Platinum and Titanium rated series.
> 
> The Super Flower Leadex is the first fully modular platform we seen from Super Flower or at least that i know of?.
> 
> Note that many if not all versions of the Leadex come in both black and white which can get somewhat confusing at times


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Ha! I'm surprised I like that idea. Watch me steal it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another member made me a custom 1300w EVGA sicker but I like that super flower butterfly. Can anyone confirm if the EVGA units are truly made by super flower, or is it a reference design made by evga's own manufacturer?
> I think the EVGA are the best option For the Price, esp. if not doing it yourself. Check out my sig rig Icarus Wings. My only caveats are 1) that the stock cables have capacitors to deliver better power, aftermarkets don't (someone on here did post a guide resleeving and preserving these) and 2) the EVGA single-sleeve 24-pin Motherboard cable has wires of varying gauge. This probably follows the ATX spec but it doesn't look 100% uniform on a cable comb


EVGA power supplies information thread


----------



## Blaise170

How does the warranty work for secondary owners on these? I found one that I can get but it's most likely been registered already.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> How does the warranty work for secondary owners on these? I found one that I can get but it's most likely been registered already.


https://www.evga.com/support/warranty/

It's either a 2 or 3 year warranty. For second hand users, it starts from the time it was shipped from the evg warehouse.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 1600 T2 is too new to be found in any shops in EU.
> Maybe some non EU shops have it but not EU.
> You can get the SF 1600W Titanium though, those are in shops in EU.


Super Flower is not same as EVGA completely.
I see people in UK go on SF, but warranty is shorter, PSU case is not so nice, No EVGA Single Sleeve Power Supply Cables Set available.
I have black set and they are specially useful for people with small RIGs, mATX example because cables could fit on much smaller place than others.
And off course they look nicer than fabric cables.
Performance of SF and EVGA are same, but I think that EVGA ask 100% Japanese caps on their power supplies.
Special these last models. Leadex have and some CapXon or similar. OK manufacturers know better than we what to do, but people usually like more Chemi-Con 100%.
And I'm not sure maybe some Leadex models use Chemi-Con only.


----------



## shilka

Those CapXon on the Leadex are on the modular board where they see next to no load on them so it does not matter the least.
As for the Leadex vs the G2/P2/T2 the Leadex actually has a better fan it is as EVGA picked a cheaper fan for thier versions.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Super Flower is not same as EVGA completely.
> I see people in UK go on SF, but warranty is shorter, PSU case is not so nice, No EVGA Single Sleeve Power Supply Cables Set available.
> I have black set and they are specially useful for people with small RIGs, mATX example because cables could fit on much smaller place than others.
> And off course they look nicer than fabric cables.
> Performance of SF and EVGA are same, but I think that EVGA ask 100% Japanese caps on their power supplies.
> Special these last models. Leadex have and some CapXon or similar. OK manufacturers know better than we what to do, but people usually like more Chemi-Con 100%.
> And I'm not sure maybe some Leadex models use Chemi-Con only.


The electronic guts are the same. I don't care about packaging and other things that have no effect on performance.
Case nice... personal preference. I like the SF design more.
Cable sets are available for most higher end modular PSUs. Especially these EVGA units from several shops. Single sleeve sets are thick as hell, not counting that they cost as much as the PSU and I'm not using a windowed case instead of my monitor.

Which one has CapXon?
Found it, yeah some of the older original versions, have them on the modular board, big deal? Not at all. Can you tell the difference between the various capacitor brands? Doubt it even if you understand the cap. specs.
The PSUs come with long warranties... I don't think they would do that if they cut the corners much, especially by using some cheap no name Chinese copy capacitors.

The only issue there was with caps was when Chinese/Taiwanese/... or who ever stole the incomplete formula from Japanese and were making bad copies that didn't last, that was until they figured it out that something is wrong and fixed it later or bought a proper formula, I don't remember anymore. I think it was Teapo.

Simply said if I would swap the casing between SF and EVGA model and sent it to reviewers, with their expensive benches they wouldn't tell the difference.
I consider that equal enough.

---

*EVGA 550 G2 review*
Score?
10,10,10,10, ... 10


----------



## shilka

Even OklahomaWolf does not score aginst lower rated caps anymore.

Edit: 10 out of 10
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=440


----------



## SteezyTN

What's the best way to check how many watts a PC is using? Basically how much is pulling from the wall?!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> What's the best way to check how many watts a PC is using? Basically how much is pulling from the wall?!


You need a kill a watt and then need to figure out what level of efficiency your PSU has at that load and take it off, or you can just be lazy and take 10% off.
Oh and dont forget that your monitor and speakers need to be in another outlet then your PC, otherwise it will added to the draw of the PC.


----------



## JackCY

From the wall you don't take anything off. Just plug in the watt meter between source and devices you want to measure. That's how many watts it is using.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You need a kill a watt and then need to figure out what level of efficiency your PSU has at that load and take it off, or you can just be lazy and take 10% off.
> Oh and dont forget that your monitor and speakers need to be in another outlet then your PC, otherwise it will added to the draw of the PC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> From the wall you don't take anything off. Just plug in the watt meter between source and devices you want to measure. That's how many watts it is using.


thanks guys. I've heard of the kill a watt meters by P3 before, but are they that trustworthy and accurate?


----------



## JackCY

+- what ever %, they are usually some cheap generic kill a watt meter, I've used it once, probably every other electronics store sells them for a few $/EUR.


----------



## TwoCables

They're not 100% accurate, but here's how you can get a reasonably accurate measurement:

First, obviously, plug only your PSU into it. Then, take all readings under load and multiply them by whatever your PSU's advertised efficiency is. If it's 80+ (white), then multiply by .80. If it's 80+ Bronze, then multiply by .85. If it's Gold, then .90. If it's Platinum, then .92 I think.

The result of the calculation is approximately what your computer is pulling out of your PSU. That's what's being pulled out of the PSU's advertised capacity (so, the draw at the wall outlet is *not* being taken out of the PSU's advertised capacity).


----------



## WinterQuinn

This just came in for me! Got in on the Newegg promotion they had, so it came out cheaper than the G2 version. Moving my old G2 into my brother's rig.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WinterQuinn*
> 
> This just came in for me! Got in on the Newegg promotion they had, so it came out cheaper than the G2 version. Moving my old G2 into my brother's rig.


Added to the list.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Those CapXon on the Leadex are on the modular board where they see next to no load on them so it does not matter the least ...


Caps on the modular board see the same 'load' (full charge up to their rated capacitance) than caps on the PSU's PCB, or than caps near the cable ends. It matters.

The supposedly '100% jap caps' Supernova G2 1300 sports Crapxons near the cable ends, see here.


----------



## Motley01

Well I needed a new power supply, because my Corsair HX850 is 2 years old and doesn't have fully modular. (12v motherboard power cable). I''m getting some cablemod color braided cable kit.

I know the Supernova G2 has been getting great reviews, and its cheaper than Corsair. Best deal I could find on the HX850i was $159.

I see that Newegg is having a sale on the Supernova 850 G2 for $139 plus a $20 rebate making it $120 total. Nice deal, so I just placed the order.

And I also placed an order from Performance PCs for the cable kit from cablemod for the E series Supernova G2.


----------



## JackCY

The caps are for ripple not for load regulation. And not everything Japanese is shiny ya know. Useless obsession to have caps from Japs.


----------



## Blaise170

I just ordered a NEX for my Linux machine. Will I be kicked out of the club?


----------



## looniam

not if you do the penance monsignor shilka gives you.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I just ordered a NEX for my Linux machine. Will I be kicked out of the club?


Which one? the NEX B sucks but the NEX G is just meh.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Which one? the NEX B sucks but the NEX G is just meh.


NEX650G


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> NEX650G


Its mediocre as hell but its not the worst thing ever made.
And i think they lowered the price as it used to be a massive ripoff.

If its not going to be used in a system that is going to see heavy stress and overclocks it does not matter all that much.


----------



## Blaise170

Yeah I was just trying to find the cheapest fully modular PSU that I could. It was either this or the Rosewill Photon and I'd rather have FSP over Sirfa as OEM. Unfortunately the EVGA GS/G2 series is either sold out or unavailable everywhere otherwise I'd probably have gotten another of those. Can't argue with the 10 year warranty on the NEX though, plus they removed that ugly handle from it finally.


----------



## shilka

Only review of the Rosewill Photon i have seen was the 750 watt and that one was one of if not THE worst PSU i have seen in a very long time.

Its a freaking trainwreck!
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=405

And look what happend to the one OklahomaWolf got.


Now the reason why i have not made a why you should buy thread about it is there is only one real review and i wont make a whole thread just one on review as it could be a one off.

Another flaw many of the new Rosewill units have is you can plug the PCI-E cables into the 8 pin EPS cable port or vice versa and thats a HUGE NO NO!
Warning about the Thermaltake Toughpower Grand and the Rosewill Photon


----------



## Blaise170

Yep I saw that review in RealHardTechX's database which shooed me away from that platform. FSP Aurum has always seemed decent enough, and I'm only running probably 400W in that system anyways. Also I just figured out that there are two versions of the NEX units, the originals and the G1 versions. I got the G1 version.


----------



## Dizzy8108

Hey guys. I have a 850 G2 and I am looking at getting 2x Asus 980 Ti Strix's. Is my 850 going to sufficient to run it? CPU is 4790k overclocked to 4.6ghz. Thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzy8108*
> 
> Hey guys. I have a 850 G2 and I am looking at getting 2x Asus 980 Ti Strix's. Is my 850 going to sufficient to run it? CPU is 4790k overclocked to 4.6ghz. Thanks


I can run two Titan X's at stock, and a little iverclocked. But once I raise the voltage by a lot, my AX860 will restart. You'll be fine with slight overclocking!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzy8108*
> 
> Hey guys. I have a 850 G2 and I am looking at getting 2x Asus 980 Ti Strix's. Is my 850 going to sufficient to run it? CPU is 4790k overclocked to 4.6ghz. Thanks


As long as you dont go nuts with overclocking them.


----------



## ondoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzy8108*
> 
> Hey guys. I have a 850 G2 and I am looking at getting 2x Asus 980 Ti Strix's. Is my 850 going to sufficient to run it? CPU is 4790k overclocked to 4.6ghz. Thanks


same here have 2 980Ti Strix OC coming...
cpu is 5820k @ 4.2 @ 1.196v...
hopefully 850 g2 is enough...


----------



## Dizzy8108

Thanks guys. Another quick question, I'm considering water cooling everything. How much load do the pumps draw? Will this require me to upgrade assuming I don't raise the voltage on the cards or the processor?


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> The EVGA G2 / P2 / T2 also come with a massive 10 year warranty, just note that you will NOT get the full 10 year warranty unless you register your PSU and its serial number on the EVGA website within 30 days.


This might be inaccurate. I registered today, 33 days after I purchased my unit and called EVGA concerned that I was too late and the customer support rep told me I'm fine, that the 30 days registration period only applies to when (limited?) lifetime warranty's are offered. That as long as I've registered and have my invoice uploaded then I'm good. I may call again just to make sure I'm good on my 10 years.









In other news I managed to sell my old PSU for more than I payed for the P2.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> This might be inaccurate. I registered today, 33 days after I purchased my unit and called EVGA concerned that I was too late and the customer support rep told me I'm fine, that the 30 days registration period only applies to when (limited?) lifetime warranty's are offered. That as long as I've registered and have my invoice uploaded then I'm good. I may call again just to make sure I'm good on my 10 years.


They might have updated their policy since this club was made who knows.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzy8108*
> 
> Hey guys. I have a 850 G2 and I am looking at getting 2x Asus 980 Ti Strix's. Is my 850 going to sufficient to run it? CPU is 4790k overclocked to 4.6ghz. Thanks


It will be enough. Your power consumption while gaming will be around 750-775W, as long as you keep the cards at stock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> same here have 2 980Ti Strix OC coming...
> cpu is 5820k @ 4.2 @ 1.196v...
> hopefully 850 g2 is enough...


It will be just enough. The 850W G2 will be able to handle it, but the fan might be on full blast and it will probably be dumping a bit of heat into your room. Yuck.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dizzy8108*
> 
> Thanks guys. Another quick question, I'm considering water cooling everything. How much load do the pumps draw? Will this require me to upgrade assuming I don't raise the voltage on the cards or the processor?


Meh, maybe 25-50W at the most.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> same here have 2 980Ti Strix OC coming...
> cpu is 5820k @ 4.2 @ 1.196v...
> hopefully 850 g2 is enough...


it should be just enough. being that cpus like AM3+ 8 cores w/oc and socket 2011/2011-3 cpu can consume easily twice the power of something like a 4790k oc, when you pair these platform with two high end gpus like the 980ti/Titan X, 290X/390X etc., just get a 1000 watt psu as a base. 750- 850 works on socket 1150 and even then can present a problem with clocks/volts pushed really high. no point buying any high end pc with such limitations.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> it should be just enough. being that cpus like AM3+ 8 cores w/oc and socket 2011/2011-3 cpu can consume easily twice the power of something like a 4790k oc, when you pair these platform with two high end gpus like the 980ti/Titan X, 290X/390X etc., just get a 1000 watt psu as a base. 750- 850 works on socket 1150 and even then can present a problem with clocks/volts pushed really high. no point buying any high end pc with such limitations.


Well, unless you build a high-end PC so that you don't have to overclock anything to get that performance that you'd get with the high-end build vs. a more mainstream build.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, unless you build a high-end PC so that you don't have to overclock anything to get that performance that you'd get with the high-end build vs. a more mainstream build.


Of course, but a lot of people overclock for the enjoyment of it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Of course, but a lot of people overclock for the enjoyment of it.


I hope so. I'm actually in a conversation right now in PMs with someone who is noticing (because I brought it up) that OCN seems to be populated mostly by people who only want to overclock for gaming performance - otherwise, they don't care about overclocking and would rather just not bother. They don't have a passion for it, they just want to have the most powerful gaming system possible. heh


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> The caps are for ripple not for load regulation. And not everything Japanese is shiny ya know. Useless obsession to have caps from Japs.


Suit yourself.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Suit yourself.


He's not stating an opinion, but fact. What's more, he's right. Just because the capacitors are Japanese, it doesn't mean that they're GOOD. Most are, but some aren't.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I hope so. I'm actually in a conversation right now in PMs with someone who is noticing (because I brought it up) that OCN seems to be populated mostly by people who *only want to overclock for gaming performance* - otherwise, they don't care about overclocking and would rather just not bother. *They don't have a passion for it, they just want to have the most powerful* gaming system possible. heh


This seems an absurd notion to me

Is the race car builder less of a builder if he's tuning an engine with the goal of winning more races? Games are a way for enthusiasts to consume the extra cycles from overclocking. Necessity is the mother of invention - if there were no applications to demand the compute we wouldn't have the components of today.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> This seems an absurd notion to me
> 
> Is the race car builder less of a builder if he's tuning an engine with the goal of winning more races? Games are a way for enthusiasts to consume the extra cycles from overclocking. Necessity is the mother of invention - if there were no applications to demand the compute we wouldn't have the components of today.


I'm just telling you what I've seen during my time here on OCN. Back when I joined, most OCN members were overclocking because it was a passion of theirs. Today, almost every new build that I see is for gaming, and the only reason why these people decide to overclock their new build is for superior gaming performance. They don't care about overclocking for fun, or to make it something that they enjoy doing, or to make it a hobby or anything like that. No. They don't have a passion for overclocking, and they most certainly wouldn't do it if it weren't for us being here to help them.

So, it seems to me like the vast majority of the people I've helped over the past few years on here aren't overclocking just to overclock (they're not doing it because it's fun and because it's their passion), they're overclocking to have better gaming performance. Period. That's why most people these days don't want to spend hours testing the stability of their computer. Many of them *don't* test their stability because all they want to do is raise the clock speed and play their games. They couldn't care less about the art of overclocking, and it breaks my heart.


----------



## looniam

980TI SLI haswell-E rig ( i7 5960X @4.5ghz) w/:Seasonic Platinum 1200w


just saying . .


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> 980TI SLI haswell-E rig ( i7 5960X @4.5ghz) w/:Seasonic Platinum 1200w
> 
> 
> just saying . .


If your PSU is 90% efficient while pulling 820.1W from the wall, then your computer is pulling 738W from the PSU.

*Edit:* Oh, that's not yours.


----------



## looniam

ooops, sorry twocables it's not me but a guy (who lives in the philippines) on guru3d:


i use the same screen/user name there, as here and everywhere.

*E*; ah i see that you see . .


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, I saw that a bit too late. lol


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm just telling you what I've seen during my time here on OCN. Back when I joined, most OCN members were overclocking because it was a passion of theirs. Today, almost every new build that I see is for gaming, and the only reason why these people decide to overclock their new build is for superior gaming performance. They don't care about overclocking for fun, or to make it something that they enjoy doing, or to make it a hobby or anything like that. No. They don't have a passion for overclocking, and they most certainly wouldn't do it if it weren't for us being here to help them.
> 
> So, it seems to me like the vast majority of the people I've helped over the past few years on here aren't overclocking just to overclock (they're not doing it because it's fun and because it's their passion), they're overclocking to have better gaming performance. Period. That's why most people these days don't want to spend hours testing the stability of their computer. Many of them *don't* test their stability because all they want to do is raise the clock speed and play their games. They couldn't care less about the art of overclocking, and it breaks my heart.


Well if it makes you feel better, I'm a life time PC Game enthusiast but in 2015 my time on building and overclocking is an order of magnitude greater than that playing games







it's been weeks since and at tops maybe 40 hours gaming YTD. A few years ago I put that time in week after week.

I haven't witnessed this gaming focus, in the threads I frequent people are talking about IBT AVX, HWINFO64 and 3dmark - no talk of FPS. That is, apart from the water cooling club thread







but swing by the big AMD over clocking threads - stability testing Is the game

Hope this raises some hope!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Well if it makes you feel better, I'm a life time PC Game enthusiast but in 2015 my time on building and overclocking is an order of magnitude greater than that playing games
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's been weeks since and at tops maybe 40 hours gaming YTD. A few years ago I put that time in week after week.
> 
> I haven't witnessed this gaming focus, in the threads I frequent people are talking about IBT AVX, HWINFO64 and 3dmark - no talk of FPS. That is, apart from the water cooling club thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but swing by the big AMD over clocking threads - stability testing Is the game
> 
> Hope this raises some hope!


Oh man, it does raise it. Thank you, Archae47!


----------



## Blaise170

I'm overclocking my 5820k just because I can. 4.2GHz on air can't complain. Just need the rest of my watercooling gear to come in.


----------



## Dave6531

Hey guys I'm looking at buying the 850 supernova p2 for my new build. Its a 5930k that I plan on overclocking and for time being a gtx 970 strix but plan on running a 980 ti with water cooling will this power supply be sufficient after overclocking both?


----------



## ondoy

yes.....


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Hey guys I'm looking at buying the 850 supernova p2 for my new build. Its a 5930k that I plan on overclocking and for time being a gtx 970 strix but plan on running a 980 ti with water cooling will this power supply be sufficient after overclocking both?


Its massive overkill unless you are going to run 3x GTX 970 cards or 2x GTX 980 Ti cards.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Hey guys I'm looking at buying the 850 supernova p2 for my new build. Its a 5930k that I plan on overclocking and for time being a gtx 970 strix but plan on running a 980 ti with water cooling will this power supply be sufficient after overclocking both?


Yeah, it will be major overkill. However, having said that, the only bad thing about going overkill is spending more money. A benefit to going overkill is, the PSU will be less of a space heater than it otherwise would be if it were like say JUST enough. Your power consumption while gaming with an overclocked 5930K and an overclocked 980 Ti will probably be ~550W-ish while gaming. So you *could* power this pretty easily with a good quality-made 650W PSU. It would cost you less money, but it would put more heat into your room while you're gaming. lol


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, it will be major overkill. However, having said that, the only bad thing about going overkill is spending more money. A benefit to going overkill is, the PSU will be less of a space heater than it otherwise would be if it were like say JUST enough. Your power consumption while gaming with an overclocked 5930K and an overclocked 980 Ti will probably be ~550W-ish while gaming. So you *could* power this pretty easily with a good quality-made 650W PSU. It would cost you less money, but it would put more heat into your room while you're gaming. lol


I figured around 650 the wattage for an oc 5930k is around 330 and a oc 980ti about another 320. I think id rather have it cooler if power was a concern i wouldnt have gone x99 lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> I figured around 650 the wattage for an oc 5930k is around 330 and a oc 980ti about another 320. I think id rather have it cooler if power was a concern i wouldnt have gone x99 lol.


A 980 Ti Strix would pull around 300W by itself at stock. A plain 980 Ti pulls around 250W at stock by itself.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> A 980 Ti Strix would pull around 300W by itself at stock. A plain 980 Ti pulls around 250W at stock by itself.


See all that much more reason to go for more powerhaha. Thanks for the help. Currently have a corsair ax760i which has worked great but need another for new build and heard great things from p2 series.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> See all that much more reason to go for more powerhaha. Thanks for the help. Currently have a corsair ax760i which has worked great but need another for new build and heard great things from p2 series.


Hey, may I go way off topic for a sec? I see that you have an 840 EVO. Do you have the latest firmware that fixes the gradual slow-down of read speeds on data that's over 30-days old? That firmware is EXT0DB6Q.


----------



## JackCY

I have 840 EVO 256GB and the read speed slow down issue has been fixed via firmware updates.
I've stopped checking it but I could run the test and report again in the relevant thread, I almost have the test for every month.
There was some degradation of speed with the first patch that wasn't fixing it for good, but the latest one does IMHO fix it for good as far as I know and have experienced.
I think that is the DB6Q, should be latest. CB6Q was the first patch.

---

Yeah 850W will be fine for x99 + top tier GPU even if you blast the ... out of them. You could go lower if you want, save money on the PSU and power loss. That's what's Shilka's concern, due to high electricity cost and not wanting to waste.
From my POV, x99 = 200W+ + 980Ti = 300W+ you would be fine with a 650W if you don't plan to juice it. If you like to push it and be safe at max system load during stress test of it all at once, say 250W + 400W, that's 650W. The PSU should still take it fine. But if you want to run quieter or safer, who knows, get a 750W.
On the plus side a 850W can stay with fan off up to 400W. Meaning you would have a fanless PSU probably with the x99+980Ti when not milking it like mad.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I have 840 EVO 256GB and the read speed slow down issue has been fixed via firmware updates.
> I've stopped checking it but I could run the test and report again in the relevant thread, I almost have the test for every month.
> There was some degradation of speed with the first patch that wasn't fixing it for good, but the latest one does IMHO fix it for good as far as I know and have experienced.
> I think that is the DB6Q, should be latest. CB6Q was the first patch.


Yep, like I said, EXT0DB6Q. I stopped checking too because it seems to me that for my 840 EVO, EXT0DB6Q did exactly what EXT0CB6Q was supposed to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah 850W will be fine for x99 + top tier GPU even if you blast the ... out of them. You could go lower if you want, save money on the PSU and power loss. That's what's Shilka's concern, due to high electricity cost and not wanting to waste.
> From my POV, x99 = 200W+ + 980Ti = 300W+ you would be fine with a 650W if you don't plan to juice it. If you like to push it and be safe at max system load during stress test of it all at once, say 250W + 400W, that's 650W. The PSU should still take it fine. But if you want to run quieter or safer, who knows, get a 750W.
> On the plus side a 850W can stay with fan off up to 400W. Meaning you would have a fanless PSU probably with the x99+980Ti when not milking it like mad.


Only if you're talking about the 980 Ti Strix at stock. A plain 980 Ti will pull around 250W by itself. Let's look at the Strix though:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_geforce_gtx_980_ti_strix_review,8.html

Now, for some reason, they didn't do the same thing as they did here:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/nvidia_geforce_gtx_980_ti_review,8.html

So, I have to add about 50W to what they found here. So, 332W from the wall multiplied by .90 for 90% efficiency is 298.8W. Add 50W and it becomes 348.8W. So, let's call it 350W. I don't know exactly how much power the 5930K can consume when overclocked, but I'm gonna have to guess that it can get close to 300W if it's anything like the 3930K. Assuming 300W, that's 650W which would be easy for the AX760i. However, overclock the GTX 980 Ti Strix, and you no longer have enough power unless you like a PSU acting as a space heater and a noise maker.


----------



## ondoy

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/gpu_displays/asus_gtx980ti_strix_sli_review/24
Quote:


> ASUS GTX980Ti Strix SLI on Forceware 353.30
> Intel Core i7-4960X @ 4.4GHz
> ASUS Rampage IV Extreme
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133
> Corsair AX1500i
> Corsair Neutron GTX
> Corsair H100i
> Windows 7 x64


----------



## TwoCables

644W? Not bad. I calculated 648W, before putting the CPU under full load.


----------



## JackCY

2C: SSD


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 2C: SSD


Oh funny, that was the last post that I looked at before this one here in this SuperNOVA thread!


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh funny, that was the last post that I looked at before this one here in this SuperNOVA thread!


I thought you guys use HDTune and Samsung Magician to benchmark SSD?

*sorry for the off-topic*


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raisethe3*
> 
> I thought you guys use HDTune and Samsung Magician to benchmark SSD?
> 
> *sorry for the off-topic*


No. I don't know why HD Tune isn't used, but Magician is the worst because it writes data and then it benchmarks that freshly-written data for how long it took to write it and then how long it took to read it. For the 840 EVO slow-down problem, Magician's benchmark would never show the slow read speeds on old data because it's not programmed to read old data, it's only able to read its own freshly-written data.


----------



## tabascosauz

For everyone making a fuss out of the modular board CapXons, remember that the AX1200i or AX1500i (can't remember which, maybe both, it don't matter) had varying modular board cap choices in the retail units. So what? They're still Corsair's best offerings and are reliable as hell.

OW's deductions against certain cap manufacturers have relaxed over time; after all, unless you are Fujyyu, China / Taiwan caps have been getting a bit better, and Teapos aren't made of TNT.


----------



## JackCY

No Teapos took the Semtex formula.


----------



## ondoy

think i'm really pushing my 850G2 to the limit with my current setup....
tried furmark for 1 hr, no shutdowns or crashes...

5820K @ 4.2ghz @ 1.2v
2xStrix 980Ti OC Mode
6xNoctua Fans
H105
3xHDD
2xSSD


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> think i'm really pushing my 850G2 to the limit with my current setup....
> tried furmark for 1 hr, no shutdowns or crashes...
> 
> 5820K @ 4.2ghz @ 1.2v
> 2xStrix 980Ti OC Mode
> 6xNoctua Fans
> H105
> 3xHDD
> 2xSSD


Those parts you have are massive power hogs when overclocked.


----------



## ondoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Those parts you have are massive power hogs when overclocked.


yeah, would probably take a 1.3kw evga...
till then, think i'll run those Ti's on stock...


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> yeah, would probably take a 1.3kw evga...
> till then, think i'll run those Ti's on stock...


The G2´s above 850 watts does not have hybrid fan mode so the fan is always on and spins at 1000 RPM as min.
So the 1000/13000/1600 G2 models are not quiet.


----------



## ondoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The G2´s above 850 watts does not have hybrid fan mode so the fan is always on and spins at 1000 RPM as min.
> So the 1000/13000/1600 G2 models are not quiet.


so platinum then ? are they really loud ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> so platinum then ? are they really loud ?


There are many that complain about the high wattage G2 models are loud.
Have not heard anyone say that about the P2 yet.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Those parts you have are massive power hogs when overclocked.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, would probably take a 1.3kw evga...
> till then, think i'll run those Ti's on stock...
Click to expand...

you're OK.
Quote:


> I fully stressed my Rig with my CPU @ 4.5ghz *(an i7 5960X ~looniam)*and 980Ti SLI @ 1520 and my Rig uses 820w from the wall..So I think 850w PSU is enough for 980TI SLI..For ease of mind 1000w is recommended..


http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5143905&postcount=1132

i have seen OC'd @ 4.5 1.3v hasewell-E systems with SLI titan1Xs pull around the same on the owners thread.

E: that is OC'd titanXs with modded bios from cyclops


----------



## JackCY

Why don't you measure how much you are actually drawing out of the wall during your usual max PC load? I would say the 850W is fine for E + GM200 SLI. If you are pushing them too hard and it's crashing, then well it's not enough. It's best to measure it unless you really want to upgrade the PSU or are concerned about noise and found a PSU that is quieter at this high load. No PSU will be quiet the closer you get to 1000W and above. Well maybe apart from the 2kW monster.


----------



## ondoy

yup, will get a meter this weekend...


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> yup, will get a meter this weekend...


Remember that the numbers you get from the wall is not what your system draws, you have to take the efficiency of your PSU off the number you get from the wall


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> think i'm really pushing my 850G2 to the limit with my current setup....
> tried furmark for 1 hr, no shutdowns or crashes...
> 
> 5820K @ 4.2ghz @ 1.2v
> 2xStrix 980Ti OC Mode
> 6xNoctua Fans
> H105
> 3xHDD
> 2xSSD


I had a Corsair AX860 running two Titan X's overclocked to 1.274 and my 4770k at 1.31v. My 860 would shut off immediately when I would start a game. That's why I had to upgrade to a 1300 G2


----------



## shilka

Do you find the 1300 watt loud at load?


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Do you find the 1300 watt loud at load?


It isn't EXTREMELY loud, but yes, it is loud. I even opened up an RMA because the EVGA reps said its suppose to be quiet. Even on the box it says that fan is ultra quiet. They need to fix that. I always knew the fan didn't have Eco mode, but I'll find a way to live with it. I have a Caselabs SMA8, and with the case against the wall, it kind of tunes the noise out. My RMA is still open, so I'm going to wait until my computer is 100% complete and see more of the noise. If it's still louder than I can handle, I'll ask for a refund and go with the 1200P2.


----------



## shilka

I was not aware of how loud the G2 models above 850 watts where at the time, it was not untill reports came back with many saying its loud.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I was not aware of how loud the G2 models above 850 watts where at the time, it was not untill reports came back with many saying its loud.


If it was my first PC, I don't think I would be having an issue. It's just that I'm coming from an AX860 that had the zero rpm fanless mode to a PSU where it's always on and audible. Kind of irritating. But I think I can live with it


----------



## JackCY

A 140mm at 1000 rpm is not extremely loud








People just have unrealistic expectations for high power PSUs.
Sure under heavy load when the fans spin up to 1600rpm and on other PSUs even above 2000rpm, that's loud to me.

Plus you can always mod the thing at your own risk.

Want a silent fan at idle, get hybrid fan control.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> A 140mm at 1000 rpm is not extremely loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People just have unrealistic expectations for high power PSUs.
> Sure under heavy load when the fans spin up to 1600rpm and on other PSUs even above 2000rpm, that's loud to me.
> 
> Plus you can always mod the thing at your own risk.
> 
> Want a silent fan at idle, get hybrid fan control.


I said its not extremely loud, but yes, it is loud. And again, I did say I was aware of it not having a hybrid fan control.


----------



## JackCY

*facepalm* I read too fast.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> you're OK.
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5143905&postcount=1132
> 
> i have seen OC'd @ 4.5 1.3v hasewell-E systems with SLI titan1Xs pull around the same on the owners thread.
> 
> E: that is OC'd titanXs with modded bios from cyclops


The 980 Ti Strix at stock pulls about 300W by itself under full load, about 50W more than the plain 980 Ti at stock. Two of them is 100W more than two plain 980 Ti's. Their power consumption goes up very quickly when overclocked too.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The 980 Ti Strix at stock pulls about 300W by itself under full load, about 50W more than the plain 980 Ti at stock. Two of them is 100W more than two plain 980 Ti's. Their power consumption goes up very quickly when overclocked too.


i don't know where you got that but *furmark's power draw on TPU* is 276watts:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







that's about the same as any air/water cooled GM200 chip. now LN2 benching will be significantly higher.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i don't know where you got that but *furmark's power draw on TPU* is 276watts:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's about the same as any air/water cooled GM200 chip. now LN2 benching will be significantly higher.


http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/asus_geforce_gtx_980_ti_strix_review,8.html


----------



## raisethe3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No. I don't know why HD Tune isn't used, but Magician is the worst because it writes data and then it benchmarks that freshly-written data for how long it took to write it and then how long it took to read it. For the 840 EVO slow-down problem, Magician's benchmark would never show the slow read speeds on old data because it's not programmed to read old data, it's only able to read its own freshly-written data.


Thank you kind sir. I will take note of that.


----------



## looniam

i saw that after posting and scrolling up. as much as i like guru3d's power guestimation based on killowatt readings i'll trust TCP's with on of these:


if you noticed the readings TPU got while gaming idling 2D playback is higher for the strix because it has a 30% OC out of the box compared to reference cards. but putting a max load like furmark evens it all out.

believe me - they are all about the same except if one mods the bios to increase the power target.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i saw that after posting and scrolling up. as much as i like guru3d's power guestimation based on killowatt readings i'll trust TCP's with on of these:
> 
> 
> if you noticed the readings TPU got while gaming idling 2D playback is higher for the strix because it has a 30% OC out of the box compared to reference cards. but putting a max load like furmark evens it all out.
> 
> believe me - they are all about the same except if one mods the bios to increase the power target.


We have no way to know what Guru3D is using to measure the power consumption because all they say is, "We have a device constantly monitoring the power draw from the PC". I never took that as "We're using the Kill-A-Watt and making guesses based on that". Besides, compare TPU's test system to Guru3D's.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> We have no way to know what Guru3D is using to measure the power consumption because all they say is, "We have a device constantly monitoring the power draw from the PC". I never took that as "We're using the Kill-A-Watt and making guesses based on that". Besides, compare TPU's test system to Guru3D's.


its not the test system differences . .its how it's measured or i ought to say what is measured.

guru3d measures the whole system whereas TPU measures only the power connections to the card; pci-e express slot and cable(s).
Quote:


> For this test, we measure the power consumption of only the graphics card via the PCI-Express power connector(s) and PCI-Express bus slot. A Keithley Integra 2700 digital multimeter with 6.5-digit resolution is used for all measurements. Again, these values only reflect the card's power consumption as measured at its DC inputs, not that of the whole system.


though guru3D's usage of a device sounds like using a killowatt - i'll completely agree that its not stated and could be something else. i thought i read that in the past but my memory does slip once in awhile.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> its not the test system differences . .its how it's measured or i ought to say what is measured.
> 
> guru3d measures the whole system whereas TPU measures only the power connections to the card; pci-e express slot and cable(s).
> though guru3D's usage of a device sounds like using a killowatt - i'll completely agree that its not stated and could be something else. i thought i read that in the past but my memory does slip once in awhile.


Either way, the GTX 980 Ti Strix's power consumption is considerably higher than the plain 980 Ti's power consumption. Then when you overclock it, the power consumption can skyrocket.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Either way, the GTX 980 Ti Strix's power consumption is considerably higher than the plain 980 Ti's power consumption. Then when you overclock it, the power consumption can skyrocket.


i'm sorry it's not. as a 980TI owner i can tell you it doesn't matter if it is asus strix or evga classified or a reference. you see the strix is higher in power consumption since its OC to 1300 boost out of the box as opposed to the 1125 of a reference. *any reference card will match those clocks.* my classy boosts to 1405 out of the box and stays under 270 watts.

when it comes to OCing it is dependent upon "the silicone lottery" as any other gm200 card w/titanX included. with maxwell not scaling well w/voltage like kepler, it hits a wall much much sooner unless you freeze it with LN2 cooling. there are no guarantee it will hit a high clock speed.

please understand maxwell is nothing like kepler's power consumption.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm not saying that it is.


----------



## looniam

i don't get where power consumption will skyrocket. unless benching with LN2 to freeze the card, air/water cooling is very limited in OCing.

don't let that out of box 1300Mhz clock speed of the strix throw you off nor that guru3d measurement in furmark. (i know they didn't specify furmark but that is the only gpu stress test i have seen to to cause that much power consumption.)

i'll bench fire strike extreme @ 1505+ @ 1.27v and hit 330 watts but right now i am playing the witcher 3 @1405 1.22v drawing 130 watts.


Spoiler: 43% of 300 TDP in modded bios


----------



## TwoCables

Ok, then I'll recommend 850W PSUs to people who have an overclocked 2011-V3 CPU and two overclocked 980 Ti Strix's. I was going to recommend 1200W PSUs for two reasons:

-To have more than enough power for any kind of overclocking that could be desired

-To avoid turning the PSU into a space heater while gaming.

Why not 1000W? Because I don't think anyone would want their PSU to be a space heater.


----------



## looniam

a 1Ka would be better. to quote myself on the titanX owners thread:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Did a little wattage measurement. Kill-A-Watt (so values "at the plug")
> cpu 4.625/1.35V Ram 3333 1.38V
> 
> Cyclops Bios
> Power @ 130% no offset voltage, 0% on both clocks:
> (Base clocks)
> Idle: 142W (all are +/- "5-ish" watts)
> Heaven 1080P: 590W
> Heaven 4K: 590W
> Mark 11 Scn#1: 710W
> FS scn#1: 670W
> FSU scn#1: 670W (full 4K ... volt limit kicks in)
> 
> 
> 
> *+87mV +260/+494 on core/vram:
> FSU: 840W*
> 
> 
> 
> i love seeing killawatt posts!
> (+1)
> 
> is that with the AX1500i?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: If So:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=378
> 
> so using a slightly rounded up to 94% (error on the side of caution)
> 
> 840*.94= ~790 watts
> 
> a cautious person would derate 80% for 987.5 - or a 1K PSU
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i get weird with this stuff . . sorry.
Click to expand...





the rig is with a i7 5960x - clicking on Jmpboy's quote will go to his post and see the rest of it in his sig rig. but i think you know that already.








- that was for the sake of any lurkers/guests









E:
i don't mean to say a 1K+ wouldn't be better - i just meant to say 850 watt PSU would be "ok".


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> a 1Ka would be better. to quote myself on the titanX owners thread:
> 
> the rig is with a i7 5960x - clicking on Jmpboy's quote will go to his post and see the rest of it in his sig rig. but i think you know that already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - that was for the sake of any lurkers/guests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E:
> i don't mean to say a 1K+ wouldn't be better - i just meant to say 850 watt PSU would be "ok".


We're talking about taking two GTX 980 Ti Strix's and overclocking them further than what was done at the factory, and 980 Ti Strix GPUs consume more power than Titan X's do. We're also talking about heavily overclocking a power-hungry 2011-V3 CPU.

Even someone with two 980 Ti Strix's at stock and a heavily-overclocked 2011-V3 isn't going to get an 850W PSU recommendation out of me unless their budget won't allow for anything bigger. Why? Because even though an 850W PSU would have enough power, *it will be a space heater while gaming.* Then if you overclock two GTX 980 Ti Strix's beyond their factory overclock, we're talking about pushing a 1000W PSU and turning one of those into a space heater. Therefore, I would much rather recommend a good 1200W PSU or bigger for such monstrous overclocking, depending on what I find out in talking with the person in regards to their budget and future plans.

Now, some people have rooms that are difficult to heat. In such cases, I wouldn't care and I'd recommend a ~1000W PSU or an 850W PSU, depending on their overclocking plans. Again, this is with a power-hungry 2011-V3 CPU and two GTX 980 Ti Strix's in SLI.

I'm not going to be recommending any of Corsair's PSUs either, so that JonnyGURU review doesn't apply because the efficiency of the PSUs that I like to recommend don't drop much at all if the PSU is overkill. You might see it in testing, but the difference on the electricity bill each month would be pennies or just a couple of dollars, depending on how often the person games each day. I sincerely doubt that difference is going to matter unless the person is already desperately strapped for cash. Of course, someone who's that broke won't be building such a system anyway.


----------



## looniam

i wasn't saying anything about recommending a corsair PSU.

now you know the i7-5960K is a 2011-V3 cpu in Jmpboy's rig and OCed to 4.625/1.35V is nothing to sneeze at?

however, it seems i cannot get you to understand that *an asus strix cards will NOT magically consume more power than ANY other gm200 chip* esp titanX's that are heavily OC'd @1.564Ghz with a modded bios - _there are more cores on the chip!_

any 980TI is lucky to get over 1550. with the strix being factory OC'd @ 1300 that leaves less OCing headroom.

really though, a space heater? we are talking that a 850 watt PSU will draw 945 watts from the wall @ 90% efficieny. thats the same heat as a 90 watt light bulb.









excuse me as i exit - yennifer needs to be rescued!


----------



## TwoCables

Y'know, you're not being very nice about this. Using the word "magically" like that rubs me the wrong way, and just the way you're trying to 'correct' me doesn't seem very respectful somehow, as though this is a fight or something. I'm not trying to have a fight with you. heh

I'm not going to continue this any further because it's not benefiting me or anyone else. It's just leaving me irritated at the way you're coming at me.


----------



## looniam

sorry about that, i was at a loss for words using magically when it seemed to me your post prior was a bit rantish - right after i agreed w/you on a 1K PSU. really, my jaw dropped reading it. maybe i misread it.

it might be a good idea to let the topic drop until ondoy gets a killowatt this week end,


----------



## TwoCables

You probably did misread it because I was surprised by the way you were trying to dominate me, coming at me as though... I don't know what.


----------



## Desolutional

Again coming back to the topic of 'more than you need'. I went through this a month or so ago. With the 1300 G2 being such good value (10 year warranty too), I don't see why anyone would risk any part of their expensive rig with a lower capacity PSU. Most PSUs are their most efficient at 50% load, which equates to around 650W. Of course, a Haswell-E SLI rig will consume more than that at heavy render loads, so at least you have the additional cap to play with. Why risk it? Pay the extra money, and have peace of mind. The 1300 G2 costs less than a third of a 980 Ti and will last you 10 years. If it ever fails, it won't kill your parts due to the protective circuitry that Superflower includes with their top notch PSUs. Don't even bother with 1000W PSUs when the 1300W is just a little more for a far better run. Now then, _how long were you planning on keeping that $600+ 980 Ti again? 10 years?_ *Just make sure to register for the warranty service if you're in the US - EU customers only need the warranty date on their invoice*.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Again coming back to the topic of 'more than you need'. I went through this a month or so ago. With the 1300 G2 being such good value (10 year warranty too), I don't see why anyone would risk any part of their expensive rig with a lower capacity PSU. Most PSUs are their most efficient at 50% load, which equates to around 650W. Of course, a Haswell-E SLI rig will consume more than that at heavy render loads, so at least you have the additional cap to play with. Why risk it? Pay the extra money, and have peace of mind. The 1300 G2 costs less than a third of a 980 Ti and will last you 10 years. If it ever fails, it won't kill your parts due to the protective circuitry that Superflower includes with their top notch PSUs. Don't even bother with 1000W PSUs when the 1300W is just a little more for a far better run. Now then, _how long were you planning on keeping that $600+ 980 Ti again? 10 years?_


If you are not going to need the wattage its just a waste of money and the efficiency is going to suck at lower loads.

You can ALWAYS get something little bit better for just a little bit more, the trick is to know when to stop and say i dont need this and i never will need this so i am not going to buy it as that would just be stupid (might as well throw money out the window its about as useful.
Its called common sense and it seems like not everyone has it.

And i am sick of the 50% load myth
50% Load Myth

Also this

*When you buy a high end enthusiast power supply, especially one that I can vouch for, you should know that you're buying into more than just a name. You're buying a machine, and one that's a lot tougher than the typical dreck you might have used before. So don't be afraid to use it for what it's intended for. Forget about "extra headroom", forget about babying your PSU or keeping some massive unnecessary safety margin. Go ahead, get that second video card and go wild. Most of you have already paid for that ability, so make the most of it.*


----------



## Desolutional

I've already shown earlier that the efficiency with the 1300 G2 is hardly different vs. your lower recommendations, even at sub 250W loads. Seeing as a loaded system will be using more than the region of 250W, and upon idle should in a real power conscious world be switched to standby (S3) or hibernate (S4), I can safely say that AC power loss with a 1300 G2 vs. a 650W or whatever else PSU is going to be negligible. I believe the 1300 G2 hits the "sweet spot" for the higher wattage PSUs. Anything higher than that ends up costing _exponentially more_. E.g. 1300 G2 is £160. The next 1500W selection (an Enermax) is £240. That's a massive jump of £80, *and* no 10 year warranty (you actually *lose* that by jumping up). 50% extra for 200W extra is not worth it in this case unless you're pushing extreme loads. Even a 5960x and 3 980 Tis won't push more than 1300W.

In summary, person A uses a 500W PSU, and person B uses a 1300W PSU. Person A has 90% efficiency, B has 87% efficiency. A uses his system for 2 hours a day. B uses their system for 2 hours a day. Load is 350W. B puts his system to sleep for the remaining 22 hours. A only puts his system to sleep for 20 hours - the other 2 hours it is being idle, consuming 30W. Sleep consumes 3W.

The fact is, A uses 60Wh, and person B does not use 60Wh due to leaving it idle. B still saves power, even with a lower efficiency. Don't get me started with monitor power consumption - I have mine set to turn off 10 minutes after idle. All power consumption is down to user preference. I personally don't mind waiting 5 seconds for my rig to boot up from sleep, as long as I keep my power usage down while I'm not using it. 5 seconds is too fast to finish off a cup of tea.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Again coming back to the topic of 'more than you need'. I went through this a month or so ago. With the 1300 G2 being such good value (10 year warranty too), I don't see why anyone would risk any part of their expensive rig with a lower capacity PSU. Most PSUs are their most efficient at 50% load, which equates to around 650W. Of course, a Haswell-E SLI rig will consume more than that at heavy render loads, so at least you have the additional cap to play with. Why risk it? Pay the extra money, and have peace of mind. The 1300 G2 costs less than a third of a 980 Ti and will last you 10 years. If it ever fails, it won't kill your parts due to the protective circuitry that Superflower includes with their top notch PSUs. Don't even bother with 1000W PSUs when the 1300W is just a little more for a far better run. Now then, how long were you planning on keeping that $600+ 980 Ti again? 10 years? *Just make sure to register for the warranty service if you're in the US - EU customers only need the warranty date on their invoice*.


The 50% load thing is regarding your average load on the PSU. So let's say your maximum power consumption only happens for 2 hours per day, and maybe 5 days per week. In that case, you would definitely not want that maximum load to be at 50% of your PSU's capacity because then your average power consumption would be MUCH lower. Instead, you would want to size the PSU to have that maximum power consumption land at around 80-90% of the PSU's capacity.

However, if your maximum power consumption is 24/7 (or damn close to it) and you intend on having it be 24/7 for several months, then you definitely want that power consumption sitting at around 50% of the PSU's capacity.

Even so, the next part needs to be said:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> I've already shown earlier that the efficiency with the 1300 G2 is hardly different vs. your lower recommendations, even at sub 250W loads. Seeing as a loaded system will be using more than the region of 250W, and upon idle should in a real power conscious world be switched to standby (S3) or hibernate (S4), I can safely say that AC power loss with a 1300 G2 vs. a 650W or whatever else PSU is going to be negligible. I believe the 1300 G2 hits the "sweet spot" for the higher wattage PSUs. Anything higher than that ends up costing exponentially more. E.g. 1300 G2 is £160. The next 1500W selection (an Enermax) is £240. That's a massive jump of £80, *and* no 10 year warranty (you actually *lose* that by jumping up). 50% extra for 200W extra is not worth it in this case unless you're pushing extreme loads. Even a 5960x and 3 980 Tis won't push more than 1300W.
> 
> In summary, person A uses a 500W PSU, and person B uses a 1300W PSU. Person A has 90% efficiency, B has 87% efficiency. A uses his system for 2 hours a day. B uses their system for 2 hours a day. Load is 350W. B puts his system to sleep for the remaining 22 hours. A only puts his system to sleep for 20 hours - the other 2 hours it is being idle, consuming 30W. Sleep consumes 3W.
> 
> The fact is, A uses 60Wh, and person B does not use 60Wh due to leaving it idle. B still saves power, even with a lower efficiency. Don't get me started with monitor power consumption - I have mine set to turn off 10 minutes after idle. All power consumption is down to user preference. I personally don't mind waiting 5 seconds for my rig to boot up from sleep, as long as I keep my power usage down while I'm not using it. 5 seconds is too fast to finish off a cup of tea.


This.

I've been saying for a very long time now that the PSUs that we recommend here on OCN don't really have a considerably worse efficiency at extremely low loads. At most, it's just a drop of maybe 1-3%. So, telling someone to avoid overkill PSUs because the efficiency will be worse would only be accurate information if the PSU being purchased is either junk or it's known to have considerably worse efficiency at extremely low loads. Today's good quality-made PSUs don't really have considerably worse efficiency at extremely low loads though, not even if the average power consumption is maybe 10-20%.

When I say "considerably", I mean "an amount that's worth considering" or "an amount that's worth taking into consideration".


----------



## Desolutional

Heck, I leave my entire rig to go to sleep when I'm working and it uses less power (monitor standby and all) than my mobile phone charger! 5 watts at the wall when sleeping. When everything is off it consumes less than 1W (really negligible). Heck, a laptop charger left idle (unplugged to the laptop) consumes 5W as it is. I've found the best way to combat power consumption is just to let your rig sleep instead of idle. If I needed the rig for anything specific, then I'd use an alternative suitable device - mine consumes 150W on idle presently - but I'm still tweaking idle power saving techniques. This is with a 5820K and a fairly decent 970. For my media streaming, downloading or automation I use a tablet, or my RPI 2. Not too scared about running 150W on my 1300 G2 as I do tend to be a lot more power conscious than most people. For what I lose in my efficiency I save a lot more by simply turning the TiVo off, or increasing the temp on the fridge by a notch or two.


----------



## TwoCables

Be careful with fridge temps. That's not something to play with too much unless you have a high-quality professional refrigerator thermometer so that you know your temps are still within the safe range for each shelf and each zone, including door items.

Anyway, I just turn my computer off when I'm not using it because it has an extremely fast startup time.


----------



## HiTechPixel

I mean if you're after efficiency then you're likely going to get a titanium psu either way which, if specced correctly, will be crazy efficient at all load levels.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Again coming back to the topic of 'more than you need'.


This is the thing that gets me about the whole "don't buy a watts more power supply than you need" mentality that seems to have been ingrained into this site. I get it - save money, don't waste resources, all of that. But how many people actually "need" an overclocked 5960X with a pair of overclocked Titan X cards? Not many, I'll wager. I own such a rig, it's nice, but I'll admit I don't need it. It's not energy efficient, I can feel the heat coming out of it. PSU efficiency/oversize can't be more than a fraction of the wasted energy this fire breathing behemoth consumes.

OK, so I've set myself up with monstorous overkill in CPU and GPU capability. I see dozens of such rigs around the site, they are not uncommon, but I don't really see anybody debating the owners of the rigs that they could have used a lesser CPU or GPU(s). But when it comes to the PSU? Now we're faced with treading the fine line of not buying "too much" PSU, it's "more than you need". Well no kidding! My entire system is "more than I need". Sorry if that offends some, it's not my intention for my computer to ever offend anybody, but I'm not going to calculate out every estimated watt my system might consume and buy a PSU just large enough to get by, I'm going to buy one larger than just large enough and cross possible power draw concerns off my list of things to worry about. Might I have gotten by with a 850 watt PSU? Could be. I definitely get by with a 1200 watt PSU.

It's turned off when not in use - which is generally about 20 hours a day. The monitor is set to turn off after 5 minutes.

On topic? Yeah, I own a EVGA/SFL PSU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> This is the thing that gets me about the whole "don't buy a watts more power supply than you need" mentality that seems to have been ingrained into this site. I get it - save money, don't waste resources, all of that. But how many people actually "need" an overclocked 5960X with a pair of overclocked Titan X cards? Not many, I'll wager. I own such a rig, it's nice, but I'll admit I don't need it. It's not energy efficient, I can feel the heat coming out of it. PSU efficiency/oversize can't be more than a fraction of the wasted energy this fire breathing behemoth consumes.
> 
> OK, so I've set myself up with monstorous overkill in CPU and GPU capability. I see dozens of such rigs around the site, they are not uncommon, but I don't really see anybody debating the owners of the rigs that they could have used a lesser CPU or GPU(s). But when it comes to the PSU? Now we're faced with treading the fine line of not buying "too much" PSU, it's "more than you need". Well no kidding! My entire system is "more than I need". Sorry if that offends some, it's not my intention for my computer to ever offend anybody, but I'm not going to calculate out every estimated watt my system might consume and buy a PSU just large enough to get by, I'm going to buy one larger than just large enough and cross possible power draw concerns off my list of things to worry about. Might I have gotten by with a 850 watt PSU? Could be. I definitely get by with a 1200 watt PSU.
> 
> It's turned off when not in use - which is generally about 20 hours a day. The monitor is set to turn off after 5 minutes.
> 
> On topic? Yeah, I own a EVGA/SFL PSU.


I think this came from the days when using an overkill PSU was bad for about 3 reasons:


Noticeably worse average efficiency
Increased ripple and looser voltage regulation, on average - especially with lower quality PSUs
There is absolutely no tangible benefit, unlike an overkill CPU or video card
You could spend a lot more than you need to.

Now, #2 there kinda died a very long time ago, like several years ago (for the *good* PSUs at least - I don't know about today's lower quality PSU's). #1 died just a couple of years ago or so, but it's taking a LONG time for the majority to finally figure it out. I have only just now started to see it. #4 will always be true, but the kind of overkill that most people want really doesn't cost *THAT* much more. Sure it costs more, but its not like the difference between a socket 1155 CPU and a high-end 2011-V3 CPU. Sometimes it's a "lot" more, but not really.

So now, I think it's almost only a matter of not spending more than is necessary. Like, let's say someone says they want a 650W PSU or a 750W PSU but they just said that they will *never* have more than one video card, they will *never* overclock the card, and they will *never* have anything other than a mildly-overclocked mainstream CPU (like a 4790K). Well in that case, they'd be stupid to spend extra on a 650W/750W PSU, or by buying a lower-quality 650W/750W PSU at the same price of a high-quality 550W PSU.

Even so, it can be wise to go overkill because the longer a person stays on OCN, the greater their chances are of doing something or buying something that will require a lot more power.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think this came from the days when using an overkill PSU was bad for about 3 reasons:
> 
> Noticeably worse average efficiency
> Increased ripple and looser voltage regulation, on average - especially with lower quality PSUs
> There is absolutely no tangible benefit, unlike an overkill CPU or video card
> You could spend a lot more than you need to.
> Now, #2 there kinda died a very long time ago, like several years ago (for the *good* PSUs at least - I don't know about today's lower quality PSU's). #1 died just a couple of years ago or so, but it's taking a LONG time for the majority to finally figure it out. I have only just now started to see it. #4 will always be true, but the kind of overkill that most people want really doesn't cost *THAT* much more. Sure it costs more, but its not like the difference between a socket 1155 CPU and a high-end 2011-V3 CPU. Sometimes it's a "lot" more, but not really.
> 
> So now, I think it's almost only a matter of not spending more than is necessary. Like, let's say someone says they want a 650W PSU or a 750W PSU but they just said that they will *never* have more than one video card, they will *never* overclock the card, and they will *never* have anything other than a mildly-overclocked mainstream CPU (like a 4790K). Well in that case, they'd be stupid to spend extra on a 650W/750W PSU, or by buying a lower-quality 650W/750W PSU at the same price of a high-quality 550W PSU.
> 
> Even so, it can be wise to go overkill because the longer a person stays on OCN, the greater their chances are of doing something or buying something that will require a lot more power.


Thanks for the thoughtful reply, and I agree with it 100%. It seems that busting up a guy (who had just dropped $3K on just a processor and two video cards, for example) over spending $100 too much on a PSU is really missing the elephant in the room. And I don't mean me in particular, saving money on this rig went out the window long ago, just that in the grand scheme of OCN overkill, a little larger than absolutely necessary PSU seems positively benign.


----------



## Redzo

I like directing attention to PSU overkill when people are on a budget (and a lot of them are), leading them to save up that money and getting a more expensive component that directly impacts performance (in games mostly), like a CPU or GPU (100$ going down from a 1000W to a 550W leads to a 100$ more expensive GPU and such).

This is basically the only reason I like pointing out overkills (if we're talking about quality products of course, a 1000W DiabloTek sucks either way and I would only use it for target practice) because it saves you that much more for your other components. Otherwise, if that 750W G2 is on a sale bringing it into 550W G2 price territory ? Sure, pick it up, it doesn't hurt.


----------



## TwoCables

Exactly!


----------



## Blaise170

Generally whenever I see PSU overkill, it's also a generic/cheap PSU. So telling someone that they need to spend more on a lower wattage PSU confuses a lot of newbies and is hard to drive home.


----------



## TwoCables

It's like trying to pull their teeth out without novocaine.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Problem with lower wattage PSUs for me and a lot of my friends in high-end computing is that there aren't really any with high efficiency, quality soldering, efficient layout and quiet fan. I'd buy something like this even if it cost me €500 if I didn't have to have a 300mm long PSU and so on.


----------



## TwoCables

In alphabetical order, mostly:


550W Antec TruePower Classic
550W Antec EDGE
550W be quiet! Dark Power Pro 10
550W EVGA G2
550W, Kingwin Lazer Platinum
500W Kingwin Stryker Fanless
500W Rosewill Silent Night
550W Rosewill Tachyon
550W SeaSonic S12G
550W SeaSonic G Series
550W SeaSonic Platinum Power
550W Super Flower Golden King
500W Super Flower Golden Silent
550W Super Flower Golden Green HX
550W XFX XTR
550W XFX XTS

Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies/#user_500-599W


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> In alphabetical order, mostly:
> 
> 550W Antec TruePower Classic
> 550W Antec EDGE
> 550W be quiet! Dark Power Pro 10
> 550W EVGA G2
> 550W, Kingwin Lazer Platinum
> 500W Kingwin Stryker Fanless
> 500W Rosewill Silent Night
> 550W Rosewill Tachyon
> 550W SeaSonic S12G
> 550W SeaSonic G Series
> 550W SeaSonic Platinum Power
> 550W Super Flower Golden King
> 500W Super Flower Golden Silent
> 550W Super Flower Golden Green HX
> 550W XFX XTR
> 550W XFX XTS
> Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies/#user_500-599W


high efficiency is the key point for me, however moot that may be for other people. me and my data center are on a low-key strict power plan that relies on not wasting power. So Titanium/Platinum is pretty much the minimum and that rules out 90% of the PSUs available. And then there comes the soldering, layout, fan, cables etc.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> high efficiency is the key point for me, however moot that may be for other people. me and my data center are on a low-key strict power plan that relies on not wasting power. So Titanium/Platinum is pretty much the minimum and that rules out 90% of the PSUs available. And then there comes the soldering, layout, fan, cables etc.


Ok, so Kingwin Lazer Platinum, Stryker Fanless, Rosewill Silent Night, Rosewill Tachyon, SeaSonic Platinum, SeaSonic Platinum Power, Super Flower Golden King, Super Flower Golden Silent and XFX XTS. All 550W and a couple 500W, all high-end, and all Platinum certified.

The only two Titanium PSUs that I'm aware of are the Corsair AX1500i and the 1600W EVGA T2.


----------



## renotse

I have a 1600 G2 I'll post a pick later. I also have a Seasonic 1250 XM2 both awesome PSU


----------



## sbrochew

Just purchased and installed SuperNOVA 1000W P2. Got a bad cable with it causing it to ground fault and shut off. New cable fixed it. AWESOME PSU!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbrochew*
> 
> Just purchased and installed SuperNOVA 1000W P2. Got a bad cable with it causing it to ground fault and shut off. New cable fixed it. AWESOME PSU!


How did you determine which cable was at fault? And how did the PSU react?


----------



## sbrochew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> How did you determine which cable was at fault? And how did the PSU react?


Process of elimination. I had everything apart so many times it was ridiculous. Eventually got lucky though. I accidently hit the power button again after removing the side panel and unplugging the fan. Meant to disconnect the front panel connections but instead hit power for some reason. ..computer posted! I was shocked.

Anyway, knew the fan was the issue so swapped cables and no problem since.

With the bad cable I hit the power button and the front LED case fan along with the CPU fan would come on for a split second and go back out. Then i would hit power again and nothing at all would happen.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbrochew*
> 
> Just purchased and installed SuperNOVA 1000W P2. Got a bad cable with it causing it to ground fault and shut off. New cable fixed it. AWESOME PSU!


Your 1000 P2 look really good inside case.


----------



## Silent Scone

EVGA 1600W P2 owner here. Had the unit about 2 to 3 weeks. Love the burn in smell







.

This unit is worth it just for eco mode.


----------



## sbrochew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> Your 1000 P2 look really good inside case.


Thank you! Glad i purchased this one for sure!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> EVGA 1600W P2 owner here. Had the unit about 2 to 3 weeks. Love the burn in smell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> This unit is worth it just for eco mode.


If you want to be added to the owners list you have to read the rules
http://www.overclock.net/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club#post_22336287

I dont mean to be rude but i cant see anything on your picture its too far away and too dark.
Other then that that system looks really good.


----------



## TwoCables

I can see it. The side label is facing up. You might need to look at it from a higher viewing angle for a brighter look.


----------



## shilka

I can see P2 thats about it.


----------



## Silent Scone

It's ok, I'm not fussed. Wouldn't be much better if I took a close up as with the back plates covering it, it looks like 600P2


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Could I be added for the 650GS? Or Do you have another Club for That?

TCO


----------



## shilka

No you cant be added for the GS as its a Seasonic made PSU, this club is for the Super Flower Leadex and rebrands.
And there is no club for the GS or PS as of yet but you could start your own if you have the time to run a club.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> No you cant be added for the GS as its a Seasonic made PSU, this club is for the Super Flower Leadex and rebrands club.
> And there is no club for the GS or PS as of yet but you could start your own if you have the time to run a club.


I will leave the PSU Club to you Shilka, for I would hate to feel any wrath of yours









TCO


----------



## TwoCables

TCO, I think you're misunderstanding though. The PSUs in this club are Super Flower PSUs internally. The GS is a SeaSonic. So, this club can't include GS owners. He's not copping an attitude or anything like that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> TCO, I think you're misunderstanding though. The PSUs in this club are Super Flower PSUs internally. The GS is a SeaSonic. So, this club can't include GS owners. He's not copping an attitude or anything like that.


Neither was I! I hope people don't think that! I understand what yall are saying of the internal components made by someone other than The Super Flower Cats.







Just thought I would ask









They Call me a Free Spirit.

TCO


----------



## Silent Scone

Some people can't see emphasis through text lol. I saw that you understood


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Some people can't see emphasis through text lol. I saw that you understood










Thanks Scone









TCO


----------



## shilka

Since i dont own a GS i cant start a GS club.
But you are welcome to start your own i dont mind a club for the GS/PS.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Since i dont own a GS i cant start a GS club.
> But you are welcome to start your own i dont mind a club for the GS/PS.












TCO


----------



## TwoCables

Hey, if there's content that you want but it doesn't exist, then create it.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hey, if there's content that you want but it doesn't exist, then create it.


Not sure of Starting a Whole Club for Just a 650Gs. Plus, I don't know squat about Power supplies. I know they turn off and on, and you have to jump them to Run a pump solo to leak test sometimes. Couple Screws here and there, then the top comes off, you know?

TCO


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Not sure of Starting a Whole Club for Just a 650Gs. Plus, I don't know squat about Power supplies. I know they turn off and on, and you have to jump them to Run a pump solo to leak test sometimes. Couple, Screws here and there, then the top comes off, you know?
> 
> TCO


I wasn't saying to create a club for the 650W GS, but for the entire GS line. You make a good point though: if you're going to make a club for a product, then it's good to be an expert on that type of product too because damn, people are gonna ask questions!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I wasn't saying to create a club for the 650W GS, but for the entire GS line. You make a good point though: if you're going to make a club for a product, then it's good to be an expert on that type of product too because damn, people are gonna ask questions!


Yea..... I wouldn't know where to start you know? Capacitors, and wires..... oh my... I feel nervous already. Ill Paint it though!

TCO


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Yea..... I wouldn't know where to start you know? Capacitors, and wires..... oh my... I feel nervous already. Ill Paint it though!
> 
> TCO


Don't forget the racing stripes. That always adds extra performance.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Don't forget the racing stripes. That always adds extra performance.










At this point, If I started a Club for the GS, PS cats, That I am sure would be a huge topic of Discussion.

TCO


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, If I started a Club for the GS, PS cats, That I am sure would be a huge topic of Discussion.
> 
> TCO


"I can answer any question you want, just as long as it's about painting the PSU. HaHaHaHahahahaHAHAHAHA.....hahaha.... ahem."


----------



## wholeeo

Should I think there's a problem with my 24-pin cable (sleeved EVGA cable set)?

UEFI and OS report 3.280V for the +3.3V rail. I'll try the original cable which has went unused to verify when I am able. Was just wondering if I should be concerned about that.


----------



## shilka

All kinds of software readings for voltages are unreliable, inaccurate, and imprecise.
Only way is to use a digtal multi meter.


----------



## TwoCables

If it's accurate, then that's pretty damn good. Voltage regulation isn't always absolutely perfectly spot on. 3.28V is only off by 0.0060606060606061%.


----------



## LandonAaron

I have 1000W Evga G2, and the fan has gotten really noisy. It makes a ticking sound a lot of the time. Sometimes I can stop it by sticking a electrical tie through the grill stopping the fan for a second, then pulling it out. When the fan restarts after a second usually the ticking will have stopped, but lately I am having to do this more and more often and sometimes the ticking immediately resumes.

I think I want to just replace the fan at this point. Can someone tell me what the fan is, and how hard would it would be to replace? Is there a guide or how-to available for changing the fan? Any other suggestions on dealing with the ticking noise? Thanks.


----------



## shilka

RMA it instead if you open the PSU up and replace the fan you will void the warranty.


----------



## wholeeo

OK, I want in on this prestigious club. Count me in.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> OK, I want in on this prestigious club. Count me in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One of my favorite member submitted photos here is that monkey statue holding your GPU's. It's gives off that good feeling, hold it over your head moments.









Congrats on P2 1200, he seems just as happy.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> OK, I want in on this prestigious club. Count me in.


You have been added


----------



## Dave6531

I'll add a pic of mine later today after I get off of work. Haven't had a chance to even boot it up yet do to being a little fearful of my x99 sabertooth after reading some on how asus boards are frying chips. Really don't want to fry my 5930k.


----------



## IcarusLSC

I got a 850W G2 last fall, two of the video card cords had the capacitors backwards, so they popped first power up. I didn't feel like pulling it all apart again to replace the psu. so just replaced the caps. Been great ever since


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> I'll add a pic of mine later today after I get off of work. Haven't had a chance to even boot it up yet do to being a little fearful of my x99 sabertooth after reading some on how asus boards are frying chips. Really don't want to fry my 5930k.


I had a crazy boot after fiddling with some options in the BIOS, (Probably human error) but the BIOS shut the boot process down after it noticed that I was trying to boot with 1.5V Core









TCO


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I had a crazy boot after fiddling with some options in the BIOS, (Probably human error) but the BIOS shut the boot process down after it noticed that I was trying to boot with 1.5V Core
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


lol holy crap good thing, I'll be booting mine up today just have to put windows on a flash drive and the drivers.


----------



## Vlada011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> OK, I want in on this prestigious club. Count me in.


Great, one more guy with 1200 P2...


----------



## Mega Man

no one told me about this club, !~




had them for a while now

very disappointed you didnt mention the club shilka * sarcasm !*


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no one told me about this club, !~


You never asked.


----------



## Mega Man

LIES i totally did,, >.> that one time ._. that post there about a while ago :/


----------



## HagbardCeline

I just ordered a g2 PSU. How difficult is it to remove the cover on the thing for painting? I am trying to do a red/yellow (think radiation warning sign) theme inside my military green C70. I was hoping to paint the cover red and stencil a radiation symbol on it. If it's too difficult, I might just use a sticker.


----------



## shilka

Are both of your Leadex units 1000 watts?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> I just ordered a g2 PSU. How difficult is it to remove the cover on the thing for painting? I am trying to do a red/yellow (think radiation warning sign) theme inside my military green C70. I was hoping to paint the cover red and stencil a radiation symbol on it. If it's too difficult, I might just use a sticker.


I'm not sure about the removal but just realize that you will void your 10 year warranty if you take it apart.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I'm not sure about the removal but just realize that you will void your 10 year warranty if you take it apart.


Warranties









TCO


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Warranties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Not all of us have the money to buy new stuff if something breaks.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Not all of us have the money to buy new stuff if something breaks.


Buy it used! Then Break it down and fiddle around with it.

TCO


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Buy it used! Then Break it down and fiddle around with it.
> 
> TCO


The few I've looked at on eBay are almost as expensive though. That's what I ended up buying a G1 instead of G2 for my Linux machine.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> The few I've looked at on eBay are almost as expensive though. That's what I ended up buying a G1 instead of G2 for my Linux machine.


I picked up the 650GS on amazon for 80$ then got another 20% off, so total price was 66$, I took apart and painted that because it was so cheap. If I paid... 100$ and more I would be hesitant to take it apart.

TCO


----------



## ajx

Hey, what would be the best PSU for my case?
I am undecided between Evga Supernova G2 550 and Super Flower Leadex Gold Plus 650W
Similair price ~115 euros


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CASE: Cooltek C3 Silver

CPU: Intel Core i5 4690K

Ram: HyperX XMP Beast Series 16 Go (2 x 8 Go) - DDR3 2400 MHz Cas 11

Mainboard: ASUS Z97M-PLUS

GPU: KFA2 GTX 970 black edition

SSD: Sandisk Ultra II 480

CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-12us



thanks


----------



## shilka

If they are the same price get the Leadex 650 watt that way you can add a second GTX 970 later if you want.


----------



## Blaise170

They are the same platform so get whichever has the most wattage.


----------



## ajx

Arf, the lengt of super flower leadex 650 surpasses the max lengt tolerated within my case
My case accept a max lengt of 190mm
I would pick G2, its smaller


----------



## Vlada011

EVGA 650 G2 Size is 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 165mm (L).
Smallest 650W is EVGA 650 GS.(86mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 150mm (L)
And smallest 750/850W on market I think are EVGA 650/750/850 P2...
All same size 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 165mm (L).
If someone need very small strong PSU 850 P2 is for him and with sleeve set will use only 1/3 space of fabric cables inside case.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vlada011*
> 
> EVGA 650 G2 Size is 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 165mm (L).
> Smallest 650W is EVGA 650 GS.(86mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 150mm (L)
> And smallest 750/850W on market I think are EVGA 650/750/850 P2...
> All same size 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 165mm (L).
> If someone need very small strong PSU 850 P2 is for him and with sleeve set will use only 1/3 space of fabric cables inside case.


the cyonic AUx 650 is 150x140x86mm, same platform the 650 GS uses but is 1cm shorter in length. smallest 750 watt on the market is CM VSM750 at 150x140x86mm. the corsair AX 860 is 150x160x86mm. the entire EVGA G2/P2 series is "average" size (~165mm long + ), none of them can be considered small or compact.


----------



## ondoy




----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Added.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Managed to buy a EVGA SuperNova T2 1600W from EVGA. I'm so happy that they *finally* came in stock. It was either this or a Corsair AX1500i!


----------



## ajx

I ordered an Evga Supernova G2 550, i m coming from one of the worst PSU brand, LCPOWER (german)








Thanks for the recommended PSU list on this section, otherwhise i was completely lost to find a good one


----------



## TwoCables

Oh yeah LC-Power really is junk. You will be absolutely blown away by how much better the 550W G2 is just by unboxing it and installing it.


----------



## KickAssCop

Joined the club today. I had a choice between 1200 P2 or 1300 G2 but Amazon had a killer price for a 1300 G2 for 190 bucks. Couldn't resist and ordered it. It got delayed by 3 days so I complained to them about it and they waived shipping (which was about 57 bucks from USA to UAE). So all in all paid 190 bucks for an absolutely fantastic PSU.

Here is a shot.



P.S. Thanks to this thread for guiding me in the right direction.


----------



## shilka

Added to the list.


----------



## SteezyTN

Hehe, it fits in my case with the 360 rad











I was SOOO relieved!


----------



## Kimir

Yes it does, it's tight tho. I have my monsta 360 there too.


----------



## HagbardCeline




----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Dalek!


Good luck exterminating that PSU,










Spoiler: Exterminate!


----------



## HagbardCeline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Good luck exterminating that PSU,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Exterminate!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Good luck exterminating that PSU,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Exterminate!


Nice! Some other people had some creative ways of photographing their PSUs, so I opted for Daleks.


----------



## uscool

just bought a EVGA SuperNova G2 850w, i bought it so could see if it would no coil whine, i also have a HXi Series HX1000i Corsair which also coil whined,

i think the EVGA is slightly less noise but not sure ,

i blame it on my graphics card gigabyte 980ti gaming G1 , even though it makes no coil noise, its making the PSU's do it, its not that bad only happens when gaming , once the fans start spinning faster and with sound on cant really hear it, without the eco mode the EVGA is quite loud ,

now i need to get rid on one of these


----------



## Mega Man

and i am still not added @shilka
you dont even talk to me anymore
D:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no one told me about this club, !~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had them for a while now
> 
> very disappointed you didnt mention the club shilka * sarcasm !*


D:S


----------



## TwoCables

That's because you're Mega Man and all you do is going around shooting stuff. You're very violent!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and i am still not added @shilka
> you dont even talk to me anymore
> D:
> D:S


http://www.overclock.net/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club#post_22336287
I cant see what amount of wattage you have so i have not added you yet.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*


^   

*Aris' review of the Supernova G2 550W at Uncle Tom's*


----------



## BrokenPC

Well, The Super Nova 1600W T2 sub club was a little light on members (Only one) Can you add me?


----------



## BrokenPC

Also, Quick Question, The IEC connector on the PSU itself (Male Panel Mount) appears sound enough, the connector on the cable is a bad joke. It seems to be serviceable but it can fall out with a slight tug. Has anyone replaced their cable with something decent? I think a pullout force should be much higher, say at least 30 pounds.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and i am still not added @shilka
> you dont even talk to me anymore
> D:
> D:S
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club#post_22336287
> I cant see what amount of wattage you have so i have not added you yet.
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and i am still not added @shilka
> you dont even talk to me anymore
> D:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no one told me about this club, !~
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had them for a while now
> 
> very disappointed you didnt mention the club shilka * sarcasm !*
> 
> 
> 
> D:S
Click to expand...




bottom pix right box it clearly says 1kw


maybe we need to update your prescription of your glasses ( I R KIDDING ! )


----------



## NinjaDuck

Saw no mention of my 550w leadex platinum... I feel unique.


----------



## shilka

BrokenPC Mega Man and NinjaDuck have been added to the owners list.


----------



## Rickles

My EVGA 650w G2 comes tomorrow... if only I could sleep for a day...


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaDuck*
> 
> 
> 
> Saw no mention of my 550w leadex platinum... I feel unique.


----------



## Blaise170

P2 850W Review: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=444


----------



## NinjaDuck

I feel kinda bad for covering it with a shroud


----------



## shilka

P2 850 watt review added to the OP and the EVGA info thread.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> P2 850 watt review added to the OP and the EVGA info thread.


Missing a bracket on your spoiler tag


----------



## wickedout

Does this one count?


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Does this one count?


No that's older generation.


----------



## najiro

I just want to feature the Primochill Single Braid Maxcord Cable Set for EVGA G2/P2/T2 power supplies that I got to review. Unfortunately I didn't have cable combs to make it look better.
http://www.primochill.com/product/modsmart-single-braid-maxcord-cable-set-customizable-evga-g2p2t2-series-modular-psu/













Primochill offers custom cable lengths, up to 3-color sleeves and different connector colors. Enjoy


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Does this one count?


No thats a Seasonic KM3 and this club is for the Leadex and rebrands only.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> No thats a Seasonic KM3 and this club is for the Leadex and rebrands only.


That's what I thought. Wasn't for sure. It's still a very solid PSU. My next one will be EVGA G2 something maybe the 850 P2. For my next build. Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrokenPC*
> 
> Also, Quick Question, The IEC connector on the PSU itself (Male Panel Mount) appears sound enough, the connector on the cable is a bad joke. It seems to be serviceable but it can fall out with a slight tug. Has anyone replaced their cable with something decent? I think a pullout force should be much higher, say at least 30 pounds.


Hi, I also have the T2 1600. Mine sits very tight. I think you got a bad batch.


----------



## BrokenPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Hi, I also have the T2 1600. Mine sits very tight. I think you got a bad batch.


Hmmm.. Well, I will order a new connector and see if that fixes it. I don't like the whole power cord. It is too stiff. I will borrow one out of the server room and just replace the twistlock end if the IEC part is good..


----------



## HiTechPixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrokenPC*
> 
> Hmmm.. Well, I will order a new connector and see if that fixes it. I don't like the whole power cord. It is too stiff. I will borrow one out of the server room and just replace the twistlock end if the IEC part is good..


Unless you get one with the same qualities, I would ask for a replacement from EVGA directly.


----------



## nadz




----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nadz*


You have been added depsite the fact that i would normally say that picture is too blurry.


----------



## nadz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You have been depsite the fact that i would normally say that picture is too blurry.


Rep+ for all the Leadex threads, it was good to learn more about my PSU. I'll make sure the picture is clearer next time


----------



## Silent Scone

Just a thumbs up to Jacob and Joey @ EVGA who sorted me out a replacement UK Mains lead at the drop of a hat as the one that shipped with my P2 was faulty. Living up to the customer service one expects from EVGA from word of mouth


----------



## karkee

I orderd a P2 1000w and should be here on monday with some black sleeved cables. I see many here already have and I come from an old golden king superflower 550w with almost no coilwhine , how is the average coilwhine / chances to get on the P2 1000w?


----------



## Maintenance Bot




----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maintenance Bot*


Added to the list.


----------



## consumer

Does anyone know where I can buy a 850w P2 in Australia? I would like to buy one locally.

PCCG only stocks the 1200w P2 now and I will get that if the 850w P2 isn't available.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *consumer*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can buy a 850w P2 in Australia? I would like to buy one locally.
> 
> PCCG only stocks the 1200w P2 now and I will get that if the 850w P2 isn't available.


Get a G2 instead unless you really care about less then 2% better efficiency.
Platinum does not mean its better as 80 plus has nothing to with quality rated output or any form of stability.


----------



## consumer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Get a G2 instead unless you really care about less then 2% better efficiency.
> Platinum does not mean its better as 80 plus has nothing to with quality rated output or any form of stability.


P2 is newer though? I'd like the latest model even if it's just 2% difference. I'll settle for a G2 if I have to but would prefer the newer P2!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *consumer*
> 
> P2 is newer though? I'd like the latest model even if it's just 2% difference. I'll settle for a G2 if I have to but would prefer the newer P2!


Both yes and no as in the P2 came out after the G2 but the Super Flower Leadex which its based on had both a gold and a platinum rated model come out at the same time.
The difference is so tiny that its pretty much nothing.

Unless you have your PC on at a 100% load 24/7 or if you are trying to save every cent you can on your power bill platinum is not worth it.
If you are doing none of that platinum is not worth the extra cost, its the same PSU just with 2% or less better efficiency nothing else is in any way better.

Do you even need an 850 watt PSU what are you going to have in that system?


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, the G2 isn't a PSU that you'd have to "settle" on, so to speak.


----------



## rckrzy1

Just got my 850 G2 , very impressed with everything . I run a program to watch everything from voltage , temps , rpm's etc. I did get an alarm for 3.3 volt line, I had my configs set very tight , my old xig ps I had it set for 3.39 to 3.37 as it ran solid at 3.38 all day , the G2 momentarily went to 3.368 still WELL in specs, just interesting that my cheap ps held 3.3v line tighter. I guess it's nothing since supply is within 1.5% .

Not sure why supply came with more cables than could be used, got extra sata and PCI , better to have extras. And really overkill on packing . Can't really load test 12vrail till my new r9 280 arrives , only had an r7 240 laying around at build time.


----------



## shilka

You cant use software to watch your voltages and temps so dont bother its a waste of time.

To test your voltage, DO NOT use software voltage monitoring they are unreliable, inaccurate, and imprecise. They read sensors off your motherboard, and these sensors are not precise to being with, and are never perfectly calibrated. Furthermore, sometimes the software will read the wrong sensor. You can often see this with the -5V rail, since most PSUs don't have it. Since the software can't find the sensor reading, they'll just pick a random sensor and display that. The readings from BIOS are a bit better since you know it's the correct sensor, but the sensor itself is still imprecise and inaccurate.


----------



## consumer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Both yes and no as in the P2 came out after the G2 but the Super Flower Leadex which its based on had both a gold and a platinum rated model come out at the same time.
> The difference is so tiny that its pretty much nothing.
> 
> Unless you have your PC on at a 100% load 24/7 or if you are trying to save every cent you can on your power bill platinum is not worth it.
> If you are doing none of that platinum is not worth the extra cost, its the same PSU just with 2% or less better efficiency nothing else is in any way better.
> 
> Do you even need an 850 watt PSU what are you going to have in that system?


Yeah I need at least 850w maybe even 1000w. I can't decide ???

Running 2 980Ti's in SLI clocked at 1500mhz sucks some juice.

I'm leaning towards the P2 1000w if I can find one for sale.

I could even go the 1200w because my budget is pretty big.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Well just ordered some black evga sleeved cables for my 1300 g2 from newegg.ca. Came to $155 shipped, pretty expensive. Damn Canadian dollar!









Should be here by Friday hopefully.

I also hope they look great.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Well just ordered some black evga sleeved cables for my 1300 g2 from newegg.ca. Came to $155 shipped, pretty expensive. Damn Canadian dollar!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be here by Friday hopefully.
> 
> I also hope they look great.


Thr CableMod cables you can get for the G2 are much better if you are not already aware.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thr CableMod cables you can get for the G2 are much better if you are not already aware.


Just in time: right after he ordered them! :-D

I'm no sleeving expert but I'm very happy with my EVGA white set


What makes the cablemods 'much better?' FWIW my EVGA cables were $80 + shipping from NewEgg about a year ago


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Just in time: right after he ordered them! :-D
> 
> I'm no sleeving expert but I'm very happy with my EVGA white set
> 
> 
> What makes the cablemods 'much better?' FWIW my EVGA cables were $80 + shipping from NewEgg about a year ago


The overall quality is better not that the EVGA ones are bad the CableMod ones are just better.


----------



## Silent Scone

The EVGA ones aren't as flexible and quite coarse. I'd say more difficult to manage.


----------



## ondoy

looks manageable...


----------



## karkee

Is it normal for the EVGA 1000w P2 if eco mode is not used to use pretty high RPM on the fan ?


----------



## Mega Man

Depends on the load. Or the temp of the psu/room


----------



## SteezyTN

Is it normal that my 1300G2 fan sounds the same when idle and under heavy load (Titan X's running at 1.274v)?


----------



## ondoy

yeah, it's normal...
no eco mode...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> yeah, it's normal...
> no eco mode...


I know it doenst have eco mode, but I have heard the fan speeds up under load.


----------



## NinjaDuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Is it normal that my 1300G2 fan sounds the same when idle and under heavy load (Titan X's running at 1.274v)?


1300 Watts is a lot of power... Even Titan X SLI isn't going to come close to maxing that out.
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/81892-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-sli/?page=9
Same CPU (but non-OC gpus) pulled 458w during gaming. Most good quality power supplies are quieter than most system fans unless you really push them.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaDuck*
> 
> 1300 Watts is a lot of power... Even Titan X SLI isn't going to come close to maxing that out.
> http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/81892-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-sli/?page=9
> Same CPU (but non-OC gpus) pulled 458w during gaming. Most good quality power supplies are quieter than most system fans unless you really push them.


tsm has shown in the past in the 290X forum that just two 290Xs can pull that 1300W if pushed far enough


----------



## NinjaDuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> tsm has shown in the past in the 290X forum that just two 290Xs can pull that 1300W if pushed far enough


GCN 1.1 is a lot less efficient than Maxwell and I feel like that would be a worst case scenario as opposed to a real world load.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaDuck*
> 
> 1300 Watts is a lot of power... Even Titan X SLI isn't going to come close to maxing that out.
> http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/81892-nvidia-geforce-gtx-titan-x-sli/?page=9
> Same CPU (but non-OC gpus) pulled 458w during gaming. Most good quality power supplies are quieter than most system fans unless you really push them.


My computer would automatically restart on my AX860 when I flashed the bios for 1.274, and sometimes would crash when maxing the voltage on stock bios.

I just kept hearing from previous owners that the 1300G2 gets louder under load, yet mine sounds the same all the time even under idle. It's louder than 20 fans in my case.

EVGA is sending me a complementary free advanced RMA, and the replacement is out for delivery right now I'll test it out and see what I can do. If it's still loud, I will most likely ask for a refund or something. And yes, before anyone says anything, I was aware of it not having Eco mode


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> My computer would automatically restart on my AX860 when I flashed the bios for 1.274, and sometimes would crash when maxing the voltage on stock bios.
> 
> I just kept hearing from previous owners that the 1300G2 gets louder under load, yet mine sounds the same all the time even under idle. It's louder than 20 fans in my case.
> 
> EVGA is sending me a complementary free advanced RMA, and the replacement is out for delivery right now I'll test it out and see what I can do. If it's still loud, I will most likely ask for a refund or something. And yes, before anyone says anything, I was aware of it not having Eco mode


just remember, the 1300G2 has the loudest fan of this whole sries. 1300 watts is a lot of heat to remove so typically the bigger the psu, the higher rpm fan is used. on a unit with an agressive fan profile it's not gonna be comfortable. I think you'd be happy and content if months ago you took my advice and got the 1200P2. you went for a sale and got plenty watts for cheap. not that it's the same when talking about such good psus as these, but that is the classic recipe for disaster. in any case, hope your next one is somehow quieter. you haven't come close to maxing the unit's capacity with your setup anyway, add a third Titan X and hear what the fan sounds like then. you were told multiple times this psu was not at all quiet.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> just remember, the 1300G2 has the loudest fan of this whole sries. 1300 watts is a lot of heat to remove so typically the bigger the psu, the higher rpm fan is used. on a unit with an agressive fan profile it's not gonna be comfortable. I think you'd be happy and content if months ago you took my advice and got the 1200P2. you went for a sale and got plenty watts for cheap. not that it's the same when talking about such good psus as these, but that is the classic recipe for disaster. in any case, hope your next one is somehow quieter. you haven't come close to maxing the unit's capacity with your setup anyway, add a third Titan X and hear what the fan sounds like then. you were told multiple times this psu was not at all quiet.


Does anyone read my post at all? You guys automatically jump on to me saying that I don't listen, or that the 1300G2 is the loudest.

In all my previous post, I state that I'm aware of the non Eco mode. I've also stated that I've had people tell me and tell me and tell me that this PSU is quiet, and others have told me it's loud.

I was just letting you all know that I was receiving a replacement, as the EVGA rep said its not normal to be that loud on idle.

Update* tested the RMA PSU, and all I can say is that I'm not satisfied with the PSU mainly due to the noise level at idle. It's louder than all my fans, even when those are running at 1000RPM. This PSU is still great, but I can't get over the loudness of it. Being that idle is my biggest "concern", it's hard to concentrate while doing homework or just searching the web and what not. If I wasn't a noise freak, I think I'd keep it, but who knows... I may still keep it, and save myself $100 instead of getting a different PSU. If I end up asking EVGA for a refund or something, I may just get the 1200P2 and leave it at that. Oh well.


----------



## shilka

When you have loud video cards even in ilde you dont really care if your PSU fan is on.
My Gigabyte Gaming G1 Windforce cards are so loud they drown out everything else, and i drown out the video cards with music anyway so the PSU fan could be 50 db for all i care i would not be able to hear it over the music.


----------



## Desolutional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> *When you have loud video cards even in ilde* you dont really care if your PSU fan is on.
> My Gigabyte Gaming G1 Windforce cards are so loud they drown out everything else, and i drown out the video cards with music anyway so the PSU fan could be 50 db for all i care i would not be able to hear it over the music.


Even the most powerful cards in idle, shouldn't be louder than the G2. Minimum fan speed for a 980 Ti G1, or a 970 G1 (which I conveniently own, and can comment on personally) are nowhere near the idle volume of the G2. It's a flawed product in that respect; perfect in everything but one category - idle sound. I guess you could say, use a Raspberry Pi or something to do my idle, low power activity, such as downloading Steam games, or running a low TDP video encode. It is a shame, the G2 is really good in everything else, apart from idle.


----------



## shilka

I have a 750 watt G2 and 2x Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming cards and no way in hell is the G2 louder then my G1 cards even with the fan in the G2 on.
The G1 cards drown out everything except my case fans on max fan speed.

If you want a more quiet PSU get a 550/650/750 watt G2 instead, the 1300 watt you have is massive overkill anyway.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have a 750 watt G2 and no way in hell is it louder then my video cards even with the fan on.
> The video cards drown out everything except my case fans on max fan speed.


that's 750 watts though, you probably aren't maxing it out and it has a lower fan profile and a slower fan than the 1000 G2 and 1300G2 (has a faster fan than the 1000 G2). your psu came out later and is a bit more refined in every area compared to those.


----------



## ondoy

1300 g2 does have loud fan issues...


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> When you have loud video cards even in ilde you dont really care if your PSU fan is on.
> My Gigabyte Gaming G1 Windforce cards are so loud they drown out everything else, and i drown out the video cards with music anyway so the PSU fan could be 50 db for all i care i would not be able to hear it over the music.


Everything is watercooled, and I want an ultra quiet PC. I'm not worried about the loudness when gaming, mainly because the sound will/can void out the PSU, as well as my other fans. But it's kind of irritating when doing homework and just searching the web. It's definitely the loudest part in my PC.

Also, I'm not in here trying to complain about the 1300 G2 because its a great PSU. It's just my personal opinion that the fan is too loud when idle.

I know 1300 is overkill, but I want a PSY that's at least 1000+ watts. My AX860 couldn't even handle my flashed Titan X's as tnwould reboot once the cards were under load. I could possible get away with 1000w, but I'd feel safer with 1200.

Basically, my rig is this:

Titan X SLI (1.274v)
4770k (4.5ghz @ 1.310v)

And two pumps, and 20 fans.

I may just ask for a refund and get a 1200 P2 and call it a day.

Also, just to clarify, the 1300 G2 box says ultra quiet fan operation... Something like that


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Everything is watercooled, and I want an ultra quiet PC. I'm not worried about the loudness when gaming, mainly because the sound will/can void out the PSU, as well as my other fans. But it's kind of irritating when doing homework and just searching the web. It's definitely the loudest part in my PC.
> 
> Also, I'm not in here trying to complain about the 1300 G2 because its a great PSU. It's just my personal opinion that the fan is too loud when idle.
> 
> I know 1300 is overkill, but I want a PSY that's at least 1000+ watts. My AX860 couldn't even handle my flashed Titan X's as tnwould reboot once the cards were under load. I could possible get away with 1000w, but I'd feel safer with 1200.
> 
> Basically, my rig is this:
> 
> Titan X SLI (1.274v)
> 4770k (4.5ghz @ 1.310v)
> 
> And two pumps, and 20 fans.
> 
> I may just ask for a refund and get a 1200 P2 and call it a day.
> 
> Also, just to clarify, the 1300 G2 box says ultra quiet fan operation... Something like that


EVGA definitely makes claims on this and the 1000 G2's packaging and marketing pages that are... generous at best. they claim an intelligent fan, but it's not smart enough to go below ~1000 rpm when the pc is idling pulling 50-150 watts. these power supplies have become popular of late and after installing a couple dozen G2 psus, I've never come across a 1000G2 that was reasonably quiet at idle. the only 1300 G2 I've seen in person was the same. a shame really, some great quality psus with such a tedious issue. I wonder why they haven't made some changes to the fan profile in these yet.


----------



## shilka

Sounds like they should redesign the 1000+ G2´s to have a hybrid fan mode like the newer G2´s.


----------



## JackCY

Hong Hua vs Globe fans. From JG reviews: EVGA 1000/1300 rebrands Hong Hua fans. SF has Globe fans on 1300 but Hong Hua on 1000. I don't think the fans differ much. EVGA gets what they order from SF. I bet enabling ECO is all but adding that switch which you can do DIY at home too unless the fan controller has it hard disabled in it's FW.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> EVGA definitely makes claims on this and the 1000 G2's packaging and marketing pages that are... generous at best. they claim an intelligent fan, but it's not smart enough to go below ~1000 rpm when the pc is idling pulling 50-150 watts. these power supplies have become popular of late and after installing a couple dozen G2 psus, I've never come across a 1000G2 that was reasonably quiet at idle. the only 1300 G2 I've seen in person was the same. a shame really, some great quality psus with such a tedious issue. I wonder why they haven't made some changes to the fan profile in these yet.


Well it all depends on how people handle the noise. To me on idle, it's loud. To people on load, it's quiet. I really do love this PSU, but the noise is a deal breaker.

This needs to be fixed:



As well as giving us upgrades to a quieter version (wink wink, kidding)


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well it all depends on how people handle the noise. To me on idle, it's loud. To people on load, it's quiet. I really do love this PSU, but the noise is a deal breaker.
> 
> This needs to be fixed:
> 
> 
> 
> As well as giving us upgrades to a quieter version (wink wink, kidding)


oh yea, I agree. and to be clear, these psus when at high load are definitely quiter than many high end, high wattage psus put there (CM, Seasonic, NZXT, I'm talking to you!) but the idle fan speed is killing them. I find that the best balance in high end psus comes from Corsair with the HXi and RMi series. both idle and load have the best noise levels. the only problems I have with those is a similar minor nag I have about daisy chained cables for every gpu connector. at least the G2/P2 series doesn't do that for every pci-e cable. it's a minor thing with miniscule chance to cause any issue, but still.


----------



## Desolutional

Yep, like I said, PSU is fantastic in everything apart from idle noise. It's such an easy fix too, it's such a shame EVGA didn't implement it.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

So the whole range of EVGA G2-s and SUPERFLOWER ones be it G or P are noisy at idle ? Noise is very important issue for me and i was looking forward to buying one of those.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So the whole range of EVGA G2-s and SUPERFLOWER ones be it G or P are noisy at idle ? Noise is very important issue for me and i was looking forward to buying one of those.


No. Only the 1000W and 1300W G2. The rest are silent at idle in eco mode.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

How about the 1200W superflower ? Its so ridiculously priced that i might just grab it for whenever I want to do some crazy SLI overclockin.
I mean this one http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=16&ID=94&lang=en, do these even have the eco mode ?


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How about the 1200W superflower ? Its so ridiculously priced that i might just grab it for whenever I want to do some crazy SLI overclockin.
> I mean this one http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=16&ID=94&lang=en, do these even have the eco mode ?


Yeah, all the SF Leadex units have eco mode


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> How about the 1200W superflower ? Its so ridiculously priced that i might just grab it for whenever I want to do some crazy SLI overclockin.
> I mean this one http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=16&ID=94&lang=en, do these even have the eco mode ?





Do you even need 1200 watts? if its only for 2x video cards you dont need 1200 watts.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Well ive had occasions when i have 3x 580s on my table and once i bought 4 gtx 780s just to have fun with them, so having a sweet psu that can take whatever i throw at it would be nice, not like im talkin about buying the 2000w superflower







http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=16&ID=119&lang=en


----------



## Mega Man

I am. That is the baby I want


----------



## Blaise170

Unfortunately 2kW would blow a lot of American breakers.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Unfortunately 2kW would blow a lot of American breakers.


Yeah, I would hope that anyone who truly needs a 2000W PSU would know what they're doing.


----------



## Archea47

For a point of data - I found my 1300W G2 at idle what quieter than my two D5 pumps at 4500RPM while filling the system

And my fans never spin <1000RPM so I have no clue what it sounds like in operation









And of course my firewall I can hear running from downstairs. Different worlds RE acceptable noise on these forums


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Guys what you think? 1300 G2 or 1000 P2 ? I want quiter and better quality one.

980Ti and 5820k


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys what you think? 1300 G2 or 1000 P2 ? I want quiter and better quality one.
> 
> 980Ti and 5820k


-1300 and 1000 watts is a pretty good difference in capacity, which do you need?
- something happen to your AX860i?


----------



## BaddParrot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys what you think? 1300 G2 or 1000 P2 ? I want quiter and better quality one.
> 
> 980Ti and 5820k


The EVGA 220-GS-1050-V1 80 PLUS GOLD 1050 @ New Egg was on sale today/yesterday for $89. (If this helps).

Is a $30 rebate & + USD $30 off w/ promo code AFNJ2123, ends 9/27.

I Snagged one!


----------



## shilka

The GS are Seasonic units so those are not included in this club if you where not already aware.


----------



## BaddParrot

I'm aware. I still thought saving some one 70$+ was important


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys what you think? 1300 G2 or 1000 P2 ? I want quiter and better quality one.
> 
> 980Ti and 5820k


After being a 1300 G2 owner, I would suggest the 1000P2 or even the 1200 P2 (depending on your needs). The 1300 is too loud on idle for me personally.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys what you think? 1300 G2 or 1000 P2 ? I want quiter and better quality one.
> 
> 980Ti and 5820k


Get the 1000 P2, it's quieter and better(reviews).

I find my 1300 g2 quiet in a watercooled build, but others don't. It's a toss up on the opinions.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Get the 1000 P2, it's quieter and better(reviews).
> 
> I find my 1300 g2 quiet in a watercooled build, but others don't. It's a toss up on the opinions.


HERES PROOF OF AN OWNER SAYING ITS QUIET! Nuff said







id rather take the word of people rather than reviews over the loudness of something because that's only one person really.


----------



## JackCY

I guess only EVGA can stop this madness of every page of this thread being plagued by 1300 G2 is too loud Q&A hassle, they should simply order the newer 1300 G2s with the fan switch since people aren't into DIY to add it themselves or mod the fan at all anyhow.

To me the PSUs sound the same as any other PSU that has a same size fan running at similar RPM. Wanna know how loud some PSU is going to be before buying... find the fan curve, run a fan at those RPMs and hear it for yourself before placing that order. If only people weren't the laziest creature.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Is the 650W G2 also on par with the 750/850W G2? I'm at 550W right now with a Silverstone Strider gold, but I just bought a R9 390 which I want to OC plus my i7 4790k CPU and I want a little bit more headroom since AMD cards can be power hogs, even these new 300 series cards which consume less than the 200 series still like their power.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/452780/SuperNOVA_G2_650_Watt_80_Gold_Modular_ATX_12V_Power_Supply


----------



## shilka

All G2/P2/T2 and Leadex models are the same other then their rated efficiency and noise levels (which are louder for the bigger models)
If you have seen a review of one you have pretty much seen a review of them all.


----------



## PureBlackFire

jonnyGURU 650P2 review


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> jonnyGURU 650P2 review


7mv of ripple and the graph is so flat you can barely see it.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=446

Final score 9,8 out of 10 and the only reason why it did not get 10 is because of that stupid EPS cable which has both an 8 pin and a 4+4 pin on the same cable which you dont need on a 650 watt PSU.

Added that review to the OP and the EVGA thread.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> All G2/P2/T2 and Leadex models are the same other then their rated efficiency and noise levels (which are louder for the bigger models)
> If you have seen a review of one you have pretty much seen a review of them all.


Thanks! I take it this is a better PSU than the Silverstone?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Thanks! I take it this is a better PSU than the Silverstone?


It's so much better than the Silverstone Strider that it's not even on the same planet, so to speak.


----------



## shilka

Depends on which Strider it is you have as there are 3x gold rated Strider series, Strider Gold / Gold Evolution / Strider Gold S.
The newer they got the the worse they became.


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Depends on which Strider it is you have as there are 3x gold rated Strider series, Strider Gold / Gold Evolution / Strider Gold S.
> The newer they got the the worse they became.


This is the one that I have

http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=N82E16817256085&Keyword=Silverstone%20strider%20550w


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Is the 650W G2 also on par with the 750/850W G2? I'm at 550W right now with a Silverstone Strider gold, but I just bought a R9 390 which I want to OC plus my i7 4790k CPU and I want a little bit more headroom since AMD cards can be power hogs, even these new 300 series cards which consume less than the 200 series still like their power.
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/452780/SuperNOVA_G2_650_Watt_80_Gold_Modular_ATX_12V_Power_Supply


They really are not as bad as people make them out to be. Less then 20 dollars per year difference then running a nvidia counter part.

Btw the 3xx series is just the 2xx rebranded. So no. They are not more efficient


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> This is the one that I have
> 
> http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=N82E16817256085&Keyword=Silverstone%20strider%20550w


There are 3 models with that name so its either a plain Gold or one of the two newer Gold S.
When did you buy it if its older then 2 years then its a plain Gold model for sure.

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page998.htm


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> There are 3 models with that name so its either a plain Gold or one of the two newer Gold S.
> When did you buy it if its older then 2 years then its a plain Gold model for sure.
> 
> http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page998.htm


Mine is the regular Gold version.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainZombie*
> 
> Mine is the regular Gold version.


Voltage regulation on the 12v rail on the G2 is about 2x times as good as your old Strider Gold and ripple suppression is about 3-4x times better.

3,3v and 5v regulation on the Strider Gold are not all that great at 2,7% for the 3,3v rail and 1,8% for the 5v rail, compared that to the G2 at 1,2% for the 3,3v rail and 0,8% for the 5v rail.
Ripple on the 3,3v and 5v rails for the Strider Gold are 50mv for the 3,3v rail and 27mv for the 5v rail, compare that to the G2 which are under 10mv on all rails.

So the G2 is much better.


----------



## Mega Man

now if only leadexs would be sold in usa

evga is an awesome company.

but on the looks factor the leadex wins sorry


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's so much better than the Silverstone Strider that it's not even on the same planet, so to speak.


That's awesome thanks for your feedback!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They really are not as bad as people make them out to be. Less then 20 dollars per year difference then running a nvidia counter part.
> 
> Btw the 3xx series is just the 2xx rebranded. So no. They are not more efficient


Many of the reviewes said that they did get new PCBs for the 300 series and not just a complete rebrand. This is the first time owning an AMD GPU so it kind of worried me about with the 550w and what I have in my system. A part of me wants to jump all in and get a 980 Ti, with Pascal around the corner I wonder if it's worth it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Voltage regulation on the 12v rail on the G2 is about 2x times as good as your old Strider Gold and ripple suppression is about 3-4x times better.
> 
> 3,3v and 5v regulation on the Strider Gold are not all that great at 2,7% for the 3,3v rail and 1,8% for the 5v rail, compared that to the G2 at 1,2% for the 3,3v rail and 0,8% for the 5v rail.
> Ripple on the 3,3v and 5v rails for the Strider Gold are 50mv for the 3,3v rail and 27mv for the 5v rail, compare that to the G2 which are under 10mv on all rails.
> 
> So the G2 is much better.


Excellent, thanks! These G2 PSUs get a ton of praise around here which is great. I picked up the 650w G2 at Microcenter time to sell that Silverstone.


----------



## Mega Man

when you oc the 980s you start pulling substantially more power, the same is true of the 290/390s but the difference per year is very minor unless you are not ocing and 100% usage


----------



## krabs

I want to thank all the contributors in this thread for helping me nail down my power supply choice for the next build.


----------



## krabs

Bought the p2 650watt.

Anyway I noticed on Jonny's review ...the 2 most recent reviews ... evga p2 650 and corsair rm650
The 12v ripple chart for p2 is 25mv while 5mv for the corsair
visually it makes the evga's line smaller flatter


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krabs*
> 
> Bought the p2 650watt.
> 
> Anyway I noticed on Jonny's review ...the 2 most recent reviews ... evga p2 650 and corsair rm650
> The 12v ripple chart for p2 is 25mv while 5mv for the corsair
> visually it makes the evga's line smaller flatter


The P2 is not 25mv you need to read both reviews again.
And it was the RMi not the RM.


----------



## Kimir

That's not what he said either.

The graduation is different in both tests. See
EVGA Supernova P2 650W (vertical sensitivity : 25mV)

Corsair RM650i 650W (vertical sensitivity : 5mV)

The reading is more precise on the Corsair unit, that's what he meant.


----------



## llantant

My PSU.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llantant*
> 
> 
> 
> My PSU.


Added to the list


----------



## BrokenPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiTechPixel*
> 
> Unless you get one with the same qualities, I would ask for a replacement from EVGA directly.


Well, the one I borrowed from the server room (dell brand) was not much better. So I ordered a pair of connectors off of Ebay. I didn't bother with asking EVGA about it because my DVM determined the cable shield was not terminated properly. So I put new connectors on and all is good now. Still not 100 percent happy because while these Chinese audiophile plugs have excellent fit finish and materials, they lack where it matters in cable termination. I had to put some bits of solid wire in the terminals to get sufficient holding power. I can now probably lift my whole PC by the power cord without it falling out.


----------



## Mega Man

Well I think that would be number 1 on my list of what I shouldn't do..... ever


----------



## HagbardCeline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added to the list


I only showed my g2 PSU with with the Daleks, do I need to post the pic of the box?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> I only showed my g2 PSU with with the Daleks, do I need to post the pic of the box?


I might have missed your post so could you give me a link to your post or the post number or re upload the picture and i will take a look at it.


----------



## TwoCables

It was this post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club/#post_24405500


----------



## shilka

I can see he is already on the list so i dont know what the problem is?


----------



## HagbardCeline

I guess that's a "never mind"

Sorry 'bout that.

Finally got the CPU today, just waiting for the cooler to arrive, then it will be build time.


----------



## krabs




----------



## shilka

Added to the list, also the first 650 watt P2 owner to be added.


----------



## RyuVsJaquio

Joining the club with a EVGA P2 750!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyuVsJaquio*
> 
> Joining the club with a EVGA P2 750!


Added


----------



## pelayostyle

Just got one


----------



## HagbardCeline

I have to say, that opening the box on my EVGA 1000w g2, I was pretty impressed with how fancy it all was. I suppose they're trying to justify the premium, but all of the little bags, and the individual boxes, etc?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> I have to say, that opening the box on my EVGA 1000w g2, I was pretty impressed with how fancy it all was. I suppose they're trying to justify the premium, but all of the little bags, and the individual boxes, etc?


A part of it is presentation because it's a high-end product. I think another is that, most people who would buy a high-end product like this is going to expect it to be packaged very well and very carefully. With lower end products, or basic products that are just good enough to get the job done, there's a much lower expectation. The packaging can be plain and boring and low quality.


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> A part of it is presentation because it's a high-end product. I think another is that, most people who would buy a high-end product like this is going to expect it to be packaged very well and very carefully. With lower end products, or basic products that are just good enough to get the job done, there's a much lower expectation. The packaging can be plain and boring and low quality.


Yep, both your observations reminded me of Noctua. Their packaging, presentation and product quality is similarly excellent.
?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> Yep, both your observations reminded me of Noctua. Their packaging, presentation and product quality is similarly excellent.
> ?


Oh really? I didn't know that about Noctua! Interesting. That makes me think a little bit differently about them (I already had a positive view of them, but now it's even more positive).


----------



## HagbardCeline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh really? I didn't know that about Noctua! Interesting. That makes me think a little bit differently about them (I already had a positive view of them, but now it's even more positive).


Yea, they come with all sorts of accessories. I bought 3 Noctuas and now I have a pretty good pile of fan cable splitters and extenders. After buying crap fans for years, the Noctuas are pretty amazing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> Yea, they come with all sorts of accessories. I bought 3 Noctuas and now I have a pretty good pile of fan cable splitters and extenders. After buying crap fans for years, the Noctuas are pretty amazing.


But weren't you saying that the packaging is of the premium variety, with excellent presentation and quality?


----------



## HagbardCeline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> But weren't you saying that the packaging is of the premium variety, with excellent presentation and quality?


For sure. Boxes were so nice I didn't want to throw them away.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> For sure. Boxes were so nice I didn't want to throw them away.


Wow. I might have to buy some Noctua fans for my case. I've grown out of my blue LED fans.


----------



## HagbardCeline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. I might have to buy some Noctua fans for my case. I've grown out of my blue LED fans.


They are pretty amazing. I have the military green version of the Corsair C70, so the brown/beige color of the Noctuas looks perfect in my case. I put in three of them. Two in a push-pull across the hard drive cage and one high-flow S12 as the exhaust. So quiet!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HagbardCeline*
> 
> They are pretty amazing. I have the military green version of the Corsair C70, so the brown/beige color of the Noctuas looks perfect in my case. I put in three of them. Two in a push-pull across the hard drive cage and one high-flow S12 as the exhaust. So quiet!


Yeah, I could use some relief from the sound that my cheap case fans make. I'm just not up to doing the work. :/


----------



## vertical2

I was actually referring to the Noctua air coolers. The packaging is really impressive. Separate boxes and protection for everything. Find an unboxing video for one and you'll see what I mean.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> I was actually referring to the Noctua air coolers. The packaging is really impressive. Separate boxes and protection for everything. Find an unboxing video for one and you'll see what I mean.


Even so, I guess this means they're more of a premium manufacturer. I've never known (but then I've never asked or anything).


----------



## Mega Man

Imo the highest premium manufacture does nothing. No frills.

IE supermicro and nidec. Epic quality. Little to no goodies


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo the highest premium manufacture does nothing. No frills.
> 
> IE supermicro and nidec. Epic quality. Little to no goodies


Well like I said, I've grown out of my blue LED fans. I think it's time I ditch the bling and go for silence and performance *and quality.*


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well like I said, I've grown out of my blue LED fans. I think it's time I ditch the bling and go for silence and performance *and quality.*


I moved over to the Noctua Industrial and Redux fans in my build (couldn't stand the tan/burgundy color scheme of the regular ones) and I'm very happy with them.


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Not to jump off topic with the talks about the fans... but I've got a question.

After loads and loads of research into a decent quality Gold or Platinum PSU I stumbled upon facts that Corsair base their PSUs off of Seasonic and EVGA does the same with Super Flower. Now, let the record state that EVGA has been good to me for over 7 years and I have no personal preference over Super Flower or Seasonic. I've been trying to find a reseller of the P2 750W in the Netherlands or any neighboring country as after 4 months since the press release I thought it would be easy to procure. Well, it's not. I found 1 reseller in Denmark aside from the EU EVGA website. Like, dafuQ.

So, I found out that the P2 750 is sold under at least 3 slightly different serials, namely the 220-P2-0750-X1, X2 and X3. First off, I reckon the difference is in the power plug as the US, the UK and the rest of fancy-pants Europe uses different plugs. Either way (or either way, doesn't really translates well into text, does it?) I can't find a reseller and I'm looking for some help.









Thanks in advance lads.


----------



## Mega Man

FYI. Corsair does not use much seasonic atm that I know of.

You are in uk. You can also look for superflower leadex units as well


----------



## theshadowofsam

Got my super dooper 1200 P2 on Tuesday.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Not to jump off topic with the talks about the fans... but I've got a question.
> 
> After loads and loads of research into a decent quality Gold or Platinum PSU I stumbled upon facts that Corsair base their PSUs off of Seasonic and EVGA does the same with Super Flower. Now, let the record state that EVGA has been good to me for over 7 years and I have no personal preference over Super Flower or Seasonic. I've been trying to find a reseller of the P2 750W in the Netherlands or any neighboring country as after 4 months since the press release I thought it would be easy to procure. Well, it's not. I found 1 reseller in Denmark aside from the EU EVGA website. Like, dafuQ.
> 
> So, I found out that the P2 750 is sold under at least 3 slightly different serials, namely the 220-P2-0750-X1, X2 and X3. First off, I reckon the difference is in the power plug as the US, the UK and the rest of fancy-pants Europe uses different plugs. Either way (or either way, doesn't really translates well into text, does it?) I can't find a reseller and I'm looking for some help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance lads.


Corsair used only a few SeaSonic PSUs to basically rebrand as their own, but majority of their PSUs were made by CWT (Channel Well Technology).

EVGA seems to be currently using Super Flower PSUs *almost* exclusively, but not quite exclusively. Maybe in the future? I'd like to see that.

Anyway, the 80+ Certification isn't an indication of a PSU's quality, so let's just shop for the best PSUs within your budget. So, what's your budget?


----------



## Mega Man

What psu does evga currently make that isn't superflower


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What psu does evga currently make that isn't superflower


GS series, NEX series, low end stuff (EVGA 430W).


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Corsair used only a few SeaSonic PSUs to basically rebrand as their own, but majority of their PSUs were made by CWT (Channel Well Technology).
> 
> EVGA seems to be currently using Super Flower PSUs *almost* exclusively, but not quite exclusively. Maybe in the future? I'd like to see that.
> 
> Anyway, the 80+ Certification isn't an indication of a PSU's quality, so let's just shop for the best PSUs within your budget. So, what's your budget?


A budget isn't really at play here. I'm located in The Netherlands so I'm not really limited to possibilities. I'd like to get the P2 750Watt but it simply isn't available anywhere in Europe at the moment - is it even on sale?
Otherwise I'm looking to get the G2 750Watt. I'm creating either a X99 or Z170 build with room for SLI in the future and maybe some extra peripherals.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> A budget isn't really at play here. I'm located in The Netherlands so I'm not really limited to possibilities. I'd like to get the P2 750Watt but it simply isn't available anywhere in Europe at the moment - is it even on sale?
> Otherwise I'm looking to get the G2 750Watt. I'm creating either a X99 or Z170 build with room for SLI in the future and maybe some extra peripherals.


if you are looking at a 1151 socket and SLI 2 mid range gpus then a 750 is fine. but if you are looking at a socket 2011 w/2 flagship gpus; you'd be better served w/1K psu.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> A budget isn't really at play here. I'm located in The Netherlands so I'm not really limited to possibilities. I'd like to get the P2 750Watt but it simply isn't available anywhere in Europe at the moment - is it even on sale?
> Otherwise I'm looking to get the G2 750Watt. I'm creating either a X99 or Z170 build with room for SLI in the future and maybe some extra peripherals.


SLI with what cards?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What psu does evga currently make that isn't superflower
> 
> 
> 
> GS series, NEX series, low end stuff (EVGA 430W).
Click to expand...

ty. I thought next was eol. But interesting about the gs


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, the SuperNOVA GS is some new SeaSonic platform that we on OCN don't know anything about yet. lol


----------



## Mega Man

It has decent reviews from what I just saw

But it is seasonic that is to be expected. I look forward to their next big drop, however I hope they start focusing on blind ( a bit )

They did great on their new white lineup. Now if they could tastefully do some leds


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> if you are looking at a 1151 socket and SLI 2 mid range gpus then a 750 is fine. but if you are looking at a socket 2011 w/2 flagship gpus; you'd be better served w/1K psu.


Sounds like a plan. Is a P2/G2 1000W for X99/2011-3 a decent PSU? Or do I have to start all over again?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> SLI with what cards?


Most likely, if affordable, 2x 980 TI SuperClocked+'s from EVGA. Currently got the one.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ty. I thought next was eol. But interesting about the gs


Nah they are still selling the NEX series, although it's a bit confusing because they are selling a second generation where they've updated it (no longer has useless handle on it for example).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Sounds like a plan. Is a P2/G2 1000W for X99/2011-3 a decent PSU? Or do I have to start all over again?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely, if affordable, 2x 980 TI SuperClocked+'s from EVGA. Currently got the one.


I'm running X99 and I've had no issues with my G2.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Sounds like a plan. Is a P2/G2 1000W for X99/2011-3 a decent PSU? Or do I have to start all over again?


It depends on more than just the chipset and CPU. In fact, I'd say that the chipset doesn't even matter. What matters more is the CPU, so *which* CPU do you want? Will you be overclocking it? If you will be overclocking it, then how high will you try to overclock it? A more important thing to consider is what you will have for a video card, or what you'll have for video card*s* (and how many). Even more important than that is whether you will be overclocking it/them. If so, then how high?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Most likely, if affordable, 2x 980 TI SuperClocked+'s from EVGA. Currently got the one.


So, having said what I said above, do you have any plans to overclock anything at all? Your CPU? If so, then how high? Your 980 Ti's (when you get the 2nd one)? If so, then how will you be overclocking them? Will you try to go as high as possible with big voltage increases that are higher than programs like MSI Afterburner allows for? Or, will you overclock just high enough that requires maybe a small voltage increase in programs like MSI Afterburner?

(I'm talking about overclocking above and beyond the factory overclock - I realize that they are factory overclocked, but their overclock isn't high enough to worry about in terms of power consumption)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I'm running X99 and I've had no issues with my G2.


Of course not because you only have one R9 290.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It depends on more than just the chipset and CPU. In fact, I'd say that the chipset doesn't even matter. What matters more is the CPU, so *which* CPU do you want? Will you be overclocking it? If you will be overclocking it, then how high will you try to overclock it? A more important thing to consider is what you will have for a video card, or what you'll have for video card*s* (and how many). Even more important than that is whether you will be overclocking it/them. If so, then how high?
> 
> So, having said what I said above, do you have any plans to overclock anything at all? Your CPU? If so, then how high? Your 980 Ti's (when you get the 2nd one)? If so, then how will you be overclocking them? Will you try to go as high as possible with big voltage increases that are higher than programs like MSI Afterburner allows for? Or, will you overclock just high enough that requires maybe a small voltage increase in programs like MSI Afterburner?
> 
> (I'm talking about overclocking above and beyond the factory overclock - I realize that they are factory overclocked, but their overclock isn't high enough to worry about in terms of power consumption)
> 
> Of course not because you only have one R9 290.


I know, just saying.







I've still got pretty high overclocks regardless (4.5GHz 5820k and 1150MHz 290).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I know, just saying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've still got pretty high overclocks regardless (4.5GHz 5820k and 1150MHz 290).


Yeah, but still. lol  Your PSU is like, "Really? Is that the best you can do? Sigh."


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, but still. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your PSU is like, "Really? Is that the best you can do? Sigh."


Better for it to be telling me that than the converse.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Better for it to be telling me that than the converse.


Yeah, but my point is that it's a little bit silly to tell someone that you're not having any problems when that person is looking at having a *much* higher power consumption than you.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, but my point is that it's a little bit silly to tell someone that you're not having any problems when that person is looking at having a *much* higher power consumption than you.


With a bigger PSU than mine though.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> With a bigger PSU than mine though.


It would make more sense though if you had two overclocked 290s.


----------



## SkyFred

Hello guys, after figuring out my 3 years old Corsair CX600 PSU was responsible for the terrible coil whine in my system and not my graphics card







, I decided to go for a good and recommended unit


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> if you are looking at a 1151 socket and SLI 2 mid range gpus then a 750 is fine. but if you are looking at a socket 2011 w/2 flagship gpus; you'd be better served w/1K psu.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a plan. Is a P2/G2 1000W for X99/2011-3 a decent PSU? Or do I have to start all over again?
Click to expand...

that will be fine.







an 850 is barley enough with OCing just the cpu (haswell-E tops out ~100 watts more [300] than a socket 115x [200]). once you OC the gpus (edit: on an 850), you may experience some problems.


----------



## TwoCables

It depends on exactly which CPU.


----------



## looniam

not really.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> not really.


So all CPUs for these two chipsets have the same power consumption huh?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So all CPUs for these two chipsets have the same power consumption huh?


it appears you misread what i posted.


----------



## TwoCables

With that kind of a CPU overclocked but two 980 Ti's at stock, a high-end 850W PSU is fine. I wouldn't call it "barely enough".


----------



## looniam

haswell-E 300 watts, 980TIs @ 250 watts each for 800 watts would make 850 "barely enough" in my books.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> haswell-E 300 watts, 980TIs @ 250 watts each for 800 watts would make 850 "barely enough" in my books.


Not while gaming, and not while using a high-end 850W PSU, which would be capable of easily delivering 850W 24/7 if it's ever needed. The power consumption would be a little less than 800W while gaming.

I'm not saying, "So you should use a high-end 850W PSU". No. I'm saying you could if you had to and it would be no problem. You just couldn't overclock the 980 Ti's in addition to the CPU if it's really pulling that much power.


----------



## looniam

i really don't care for your criticisms but whatever, you always need to be right.









if ReSpawNnL wants a PSU that _should be fine_; he'll listen to you. but if they want a PSU that will be sufficient under most all conditions . .









have a good day.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i really don't care for your criticisms but whatever, you always need to be right.


I don't appreciate your judgment here. I am just stating facts. That's all I'm doing. If you are taking offense to it or something, then that's not my problem, so don't put it on me. Ok?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> if ReSpawNnL wants a PSU that should be fine; he'll listen to you. but if they want a PSU that will be sufficient under most all conditions . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have a good day.


God dammit looniam, I was just making a point. I never once said that he should get a high-end 850W PSU. Good god man. You would know that if you would actually carefully read my posts instead of rolling your eyes and skimming over them because "oh god not another post from TwoCables".


----------



## SkyFred

Ahem, I'm really impressed by the premium package of my new EVGA unit by the way !









Could someone tell me about the "eco-mode" switch at the back of the PSU ? Should I use it ?


----------



## BrokenPC

I recommend the 1600. It is a 800w silent PSU as in the fan never comes on.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Ahem, I'm really impressed by the premium package of my new EVGA unit by the way !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could someone tell me about the "eco-mode" switch at the back of the PSU ? Should I use it ?


ECO Mode means the fan only comes on when it's needed.


----------



## SkyFred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> ECO Mode means the fan only comes on when it's needed.


Nice feature ! So I can leave it on, no impact on power delivery whatsoever ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Nice feature ! So I can leave it on, no impact on power delivery whatsoever ?


It's purely for the fan.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SkyFred*
> 
> Nice feature ! So I can leave it on, no impact on power delivery whatsoever ?
> 
> 
> 
> It's purely for the fan.
Click to expand...

to truly get "eco" mode you must turn it on, then ship me your psu,

that would save you the most electricity !~


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to truly get "eco" mode you must turn it on, then ship me your psu,
> 
> that would save you the most electricity !~


That's right. This is really why Mega Man is here.


----------



## Mega Man

hey man i am mega man, i have to charge myself at night you know ;¬Þ


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hey man i am mega man, i have to charge myself at night you know ;¬Þ


lol


----------



## Mystriss

Yay another club I can join! I just got my EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2!!



(As a note, I'm working on a full pin-out of it for the repository as I've got to remake all the cables.)


----------



## BrokenPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yay another club I can join! I just got my EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2!!
> 
> 
> 
> (As a note, I'm working on a full pin-out of it for the repository as I've got to remake all the cables.)


Awesome, let me know how you make out. I am making some cables. The ones it came with are full of those little capacitors. The value for the capacitors is calculated based on the cable length so when you shorten it it might have an effect on the feedback to the regulator but I dunno, just parroting what I read. So far I just did the SATA.


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It depends on more than just the chipset and CPU. In fact, I'd say that the chipset doesn't even matter. What matters more is the CPU, so *which* CPU do you want? Will you be overclocking it? If you will be overclocking it, then how high will you try to overclock it? A more important thing to consider is what you will have for a video card, or what you'll have for video card*s* (and how many). Even more important than that is whether you will be overclocking it/them. If so, then how high?
> 
> So, having said what I said above, do you have any plans to overclock anything at all? Your CPU? If so, then how high? Your 980 Ti's (when you get the 2nd one)? If so, then how will you be overclocking them? Will you try to go as high as possible with big voltage increases that are higher than programs like MSI Afterburner allows for? Or, will you overclock just high enough that requires maybe a small voltage increase in programs like MSI Afterburner?
> 
> (I'm talking about overclocking above and beyond the factory overclock - I realize that they are factory overclocked, but their overclock isn't high enough to worry about in terms of power consumption)


Appologies for replying this late, busy busy busy!

Yes, I will definitly be overclocking the CPU till I reach a stable, about ~80% of max overclock. Some reach 4,0, some 4,2 and other even 4,6. It'll all depend on the silicon lottery I guess. After a lot of thinking I've almost certainly decided to go with the X99 as it holds more potential and for me is more bang for my buck. Even after a year, maybe 2, I'll still be able to upgrade to the extreme version. I've ran x58 for six years and bought x58 after a year since it's release and I plan to do the same with X99.

The videocard will definitly be the ASUS STRIX 980 TI. I've been looking to get the EVGA 980 Ti SuperClocked+ ACX 2.0+ but the STRIX holds more potential. I know for a fact that EVGA's customer service and RMA are godly but I'm willing to take the "risk". I'm not really into overclocking the GPU but a stable 110-115% overclock should be doable, right? To answer your question, small overclocking on behalf of the GPU, little or no voltage increases there.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrokenPC*
> 
> Awesome, let me know how you make out. I am making some cables. The ones it came with are full of those little capacitors. The value for the capacitors is calculated based on the cable length so when you shorten it it might have an effect on the feedback to the regulator but I dunno, just parroting what I read. So far I just did the SATA.


Can do, so far I've got the 24-pin MB cable unsleeved from stock and sorted for my particular build (totally flat cabling) and there's 3 caps on that one, they put them on the motherboard side, the PSU side has 32 wires spanned over an 18pin and 10pin connectors so it's pretty complicated. I'm making a detailed chart for the pin out so folks will know where the caps are routed and such if anyone wanted to make their own replacement cable w/the caps and not rip apart/destroy/void their warranty with the stock cable heh


----------



## SkyFred

Just installed my 750 G2 and waw... it's so quiet ! No more screaming coils when playing or benchmarking !

Now I definitely need to replace the two stock fans still in my case, cause I can clearly hear them now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Appologies for replying this late, busy busy busy!
> 
> Yes, I will definitly be overclocking the CPU till I reach a stable, about ~80% of max overclock. Some reach 4,0, some 4,2 and other even 4,6. It'll all depend on the silicon lottery I guess. After a lot of thinking I've almost certainly decided to go with the X99 as it holds more potential and for me is more bang for my buck. Even after a year, maybe 2, I'll still be able to upgrade to the extreme version. I've ran x58 for six years and bought x58 after a year since it's release and I plan to do the same with X99.
> 
> The videocard will definitly be the ASUS STRIX 980 TI. I've been looking to get the EVGA 980 Ti SuperClocked+ ACX 2.0+ but the STRIX holds more potential. I know for a fact that EVGA's customer service and RMA are godly but I'm willing to take the "risk". I'm not really into overclocking the GPU but a stable 110-115% overclock should be doable, right? To answer your question, small overclocking on behalf of the GPU, little or no voltage increases there.


Do you know which CPU exactly you'll have?


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Do you know which CPU exactly you'll have?


Thought I posted that... sorry! 5820K


----------



## looniam

i'll just leave these here . .

http://www.kitguru.net/components/cpu/luke-hill/intel-core-i7-5820k-haswell-e-6-core-cpu-review/8/


http://www.hardwareluxx.com/index.php/reviews/hardware/cpu/32409-haswell-e-test-intel-core-i7-5960x.html?start=7

if someone can help find what site the last one is from (posted that long ago and forgot) that would be great.









thanks and +rep maintenance bot!


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i'll just leave these here . .
> 
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/cpu/luke-hill/intel-core-i7-5820k-haswell-e-6-core-cpu-review/8/
> 
> 
> 
> if someone can help find what site the last one is from (posted that long ago and forgot) that would be great.


Thanks for that chief, very enlightening.


----------



## TwoCables

That's total system power draw by the way, measured at the wall outlet. Multiply it by .90 to find out approximately what the computer was pulling out of the PSU.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Thanks for that chief, very enlightening.


you're very welcome









i still would love to find the source on the second graph that shows increase with voltage scaling. the kitguru review barely touch upon it and that second graph from that review was very indepth (though in germen but google translate works







).

with that said, i noticed you mentioned that you may get a 5960X later . .unless you're chasing benchmarks on HWbot or such - it really might not be worth it. the added cores (8/6) and pci lanes (40/28) really won't make a difference even with two cards in SLI - unless you're bench marking for a hobby. . . which get addicting







.


----------



## Mega Man

it helps alot with quadfire !~


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> if someone can help find what site the last one is from (posted that long ago and forgot) that would be great.


I had it bookmarked. Hardwareluxx. http://www.hardwareluxx.com/index.php/reviews/hardware/cpu/32409-haswell-e-test-intel-core-i7-5960x.html?start=7


----------



## vertical2

Kitguru just reviewed the Supernova 650 P2 and gave it a "Must Have" rating.

http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/evga-supernova-650-p2-review/


----------



## looniam

10x MB!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrokenPC*
> 
> Awesome, let me know how you make out. I am making some cables. The ones it came with are full of those little capacitors. The value for the capacitors is calculated based on the cable length so when you shorten it it might have an effect on the feedback to the regulator but I dunno, just parroting what I read. So far I just did the SATA.


Annoying EVGA SuperNOVA MB pinout is done. I just posted this in the repository:



I actually need my PSU side shorter, then I need an extension (dual case build,) so I think I'm going to chop down the stock cable, that way it'll ultimately be about the same length as stock, plus I can keep the caps on it.

I'd repined my custom sata and molex extensions to work on the 1600T2; I've got 2 single sleeved x 3 sata power cables and a rear mounted 3x molex PCI pass through - wired straight to the PSU.

Seems pretty straight forward on the other pinouts, just need a day or two to finish the pinout charts and I'll have those in the repository.









EDIT: I put in a new picture for the pin out; the old one had one the PSU side showing the wire side view of the connector and the MB side was showing the "peg" side view of the connector.


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Super Flower Leadex Platinum 550W Review over at Tom's. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/super-flower-leadex-platinum-550w-power-supply,4281.html


----------



## ajx

Hey i think i have an issue with my EVGA G2 550W
Totally new power supply within a new config aswell
First of all, i had a message of Asus anti-surge

"Power supply surges detected during the previous power on ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit''

Then i also i have a weird noise that sounds like an HDD noise
Its not very loud, strident, every 15/20 seconds


----------



## rxl-gaming

does this mean i can join the club?


----------



## shilka

Hey everyone.

I have been very very sick the last few weeks due to lots of pain from some injuries as well as a ton of stress and lack of sleep.
I was in the hospital for a few days after i collapsed due to stress and lack of sleep and i have been taking some medicine and been trying to recover after i got out, i do feel a little bit better now but i am still not great and it still hurts like hell even with the painkillers

So i wont be posting as often as i have been in the past or have time to run the club.

Anyway i wont have time for OCN all that much since i am still very sick so any questions and PM´s i have gotten while i as away wont be answered any time soon.
Sory i dont have time or the energy to answer them or to run this club at least not for a while.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Hey everyone.
> 
> I have been very very sick the last few weeks due to lots of pain from some injuries as well as a ton of stress and lack of sleep.
> I was in the hospital for a few days after i collapsed due to stress and lack of sleep and i have been taking some medicine and been trying to recover after i got out, i do feel a little bit better now but i am still not great and it still hurts like hell even with the painkillers
> 
> So i wont be posting as often as i have been in the past or have time to run the club.
> 
> Anyway i wont have time for OCN all that much since i am still very sick so any questions and PM´s i have gotten while i as away wont be answered any time soon.
> Sory i dont have time or the energy to answer them or to run this club at least not for a while.


I admit that I have been worried about you. I'm glad to see you.


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Feel better shilka!


----------



## shilka

Really great when i got out of the hospital they told me the entire apartment complex is undergoing major repair and every single window and door needs to be ripped out and replaced.
The noise is unbearable which is even worse when i am already sick so i am leaving tomorrow i am staying at a friend´s place while the repair guys tearing my place apart.

And they start at 07.30 in the morning which is the reason why i have not gotten any sleep the last two weeks.

Worst part is they have to move on the next apartment so i might be away for a while at least untill they are finish as its impossible to relax with all the noise.
I swear i have worked as a security guard at active construction sites as a with less noise then what i have here.

Had to see my doctor again today and she told me the last thing i should do is stay home while they are making so much noise.

So wont be home or near a PC for at least untill next week and maybe longer.

Edit: Added all the new members that have posted while i was away.


----------



## krabs

Take care , dude.


----------



## RyuVsJaquio

Feel better soon, shilka.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Hey everyone.
> 
> I have been very very sick the last few weeks due to lots of pain from some injuries as well as a ton of stress and lack of sleep.
> I was in the hospital for a few days after i collapsed due to stress and lack of sleep and i have been taking some medicine and been trying to recover after i got out, i do feel a little bit better now but i am still not great and it still hurts like hell even with the painkillers
> 
> So i wont be posting as often as i have been in the past or have time to run the club.
> 
> Anyway i wont have time for OCN all that much since i am still very sick so any questions and PM´s i have gotten while i as away wont be answered any time soon.
> Sory i dont have time or the energy to answer them or to run this club at least not for a while.


Let me know if you would like me to keep track of any members being added to the club as I can edit and do it for you until your return.

Please take care of yourself and hope you feel better soon.









PM me if you like.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Let me know if you would like me to keep track of any members being added to the club as I can edit and do it for you until your return.
> 
> Please take care of yourself and hope you feel better soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM me if you like.


I am going to check in once or twice a day if i can otherwise it will be at least once a week.
Still dont feel well enough to answer questions so everyone please dont ask or send me a PM as i either wont answer or it will be a while before i do.

Please use my index or the PSU FAQ thread or ask TwoCables instead if you have any questions.

And thanks Arizonian


----------



## TwoCables

I was just kind of considering subscribing to all of your threads shilka, but I have to laugh because I was like, "There are too many". Each one has probably become its own discussion forum. lol I think the only reason I'm in *this* thread is, I posted an answer to someone's question that I happened to see once and I've been subscribed ever since. lol

If I'm not in a thread though and if someone wants me to check out a post or a question or something, then the "mention" feature will have to be used. I get an e-mail notification for each "mention" made, so I'm never far away.


----------



## VSG

Take care man!


----------



## Mega Man

Gl Shilka feel better old friend. You will be missed


----------



## Mystriss

UGH so sorry to hear that, I do hope you feel better soon.


----------



## TwoCables

I want to be different. 

Shilka my friend, I hope you feel better so quickly that your doctor is baffled by it and begins to wonder if you used some secret and super-advanced alien technology.


----------



## Mega Man

Ditto


----------



## vertical2

Feel better Shilka. I shall pray for your speedy recovery.


----------



## gdubc

Get well, sir. Medical issues suck! I'm at the ER right now as my kid is getting a CAT scan after falling/strange behavior. I swear it's all the psychoactive seizure medication making things worse.


----------



## fat4l

I will be changing the fan on my super flower leadex platinum 1200w.
The white fan is so crap looking. It should be black imho. It's also a bit loud.
Changing it to black version that is used in evga 1200w platinum unit.


----------



## wickedout

I'm in now! I just bought me the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 PS 80+ PLATINUM! Going to be selling my EVGA 1050 GS soon. PM me if you're interested? I'll have the 1000 PS put in on Sunday!


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I'm in now! I just bought me the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 PS 80+ PLATINUM! Going to be selling my EVGA 1050 GS soon. PM me if you're interested? I'll have the 1000 PS put in on Sunday!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sweet..congrats. Post pic of your PSU in rig and I'll add you to the list for Shilka while he's away.


----------



## shilka

The PS is also a Seasonic unit so sory you cant join this club if thats what you wanted.


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The PS is also a Seasonic unit so sory you cant join this club if thats what you wanted.


Opps did't notice that.

Hey bud, hope your feeling better. At least your still on top of it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> Opps did't notice that.
> 
> Hey bud, hope your feeling better. At least your still on top of it.


I have some good days and some bad days and i dont feel like posting much on bad days.


----------



## TwoCables

Is the 1000W PS a SeaSonic KM3?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is the 1000W PS a SeaSonic KM3?


Not sure if its a KM3 or XP3.
With voltage regulation at 0.6%, 0.2%, and 0.2 i think it might be an XP3 as i dont recall the KM3 being that good.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Not sure if its a KM3 or XP3.
> With voltage regulation at 0.6%, 0.2%, and 0.2 i think it might be an XP3 as i dont recall the KM3 being that good.


Oh, I was getting worried that he made a sidegrade.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, I was getting worried that he made a sidegrade.


Ripple suppression and voltage regulation are better on the XP3, but Seasonic still needs to catch up with Super Flower or CWT and Flextronics when it comes to suppression.

They are on the way with two new series so maybe they will catch up with those, if they will ever go on sale that is.
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page678.htm


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is the 1000W PS a SeaSonic KM3?


XP2S.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, I was getting worried that he made a sidegrade.


Going to order the EVGA 1000 P2, so I cancelled the 1000 PS order. It's shipped already so I'll refuse shipment. I'll place the order later today for arrival on Monday. I wasn't sure if it was super flower which is what I wanted to begin with. Happy Halloween everyone.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Going to order the EVGA 1000 P2, so I cancelled the 1000 PS order. It's shipped already so I'll refuse shipment. I'll place the order later today for arrival on Monday. I wasn't sure if it was super flower which is what I wanted to begin with. Happy Halloween everyone.


The PS is not bad so dont know why you would want to refuse shipment? why not keep the PS its not bad or anything.
Besides that the new Corsair RMx is both better and way cheaper then both the EVGA SuperNova P2 and the PS.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438035&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNova_PS-_-17-438-035-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438013&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNova_P2-_-17-438-013-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139140&cm_re=Corsair_RMx-_-17-139-140-_-Product

About damm time we get some competition again!


----------



## TwoCables

There's nothing wrong with the 1050W GS either. It's a very high-end PSU.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with the 1050W GS either. It's a very high-end PSU.


The reason I'm pulling the 1050W GS is because I'm going to use it in another build. Thought I'd sale it and upgrade to platinum. What platinum should I pick up then?


----------



## fat4l

ok my black globe fan is at finally in da house!








Will be swapping it over.
Has anyone done similar mod?
(Leadex 1200W platinum white fan replacement).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> The reason I'm pulling the 1050W GS is because I'm going to use it in another build. Thought I'd sale it and upgrade to platinum. What platinum should I pick up then?


Am I understanding correctly that you're using the 80+ Certification as a measure of quality?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> The reason I'm pulling the 1050W GS is because I'm going to use it in another build. Thought I'd sale it and upgrade to platinum. What platinum should I pick up then?


80 plus is irrelevant it has jack to do with quality if you are not already aware.
Why 80 PLUS® is Irrelevant to You When Buying a PSU

Its a waste of money most of the time as you pay a premium for less then 2% better efficiency and sometimes its even less then 1% better efficiency.
Platinum is not worth it unless you are trying to save every cent you can on your power bill, or if you have your system under very high load most of the time.


----------



## TwoCables

because if you have your system under a very high load most of the time, then you're consuming more power, and so the more efficient a PSU is, the less power it will be pulling from the wall outlet.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 80 plus is irrelevant it has jack to do with quality if you are not already aware.
> Why 80 PLUS® is Irrelevant to You When Buying a PSU
> 
> Its a waste of money most of the time as you pay a premium for less then 2% better efficiency and sometimes its even less then 1% better efficiency.
> Platinum is not worth it unless you are trying to save every cent you can on your power bill, or if you have your system under very high load most of the time.


I'm very aware. 1% to 2% is a small margin. Just was wanting a 1000W platinum rated PSU. And I don't waste money. So that's why I'm asking?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I'm very aware. 1% to 2% is a small margin. Just was wanting a 1000W platinum rated PSU. And I don't waste money. So that's why I'm asking?


At this point i think you should keep the PS you ordered, dont bother sending the PS back to get a P2 thats not worth the time.


----------



## TwoCables

I wouldn't have even replaced the 1050W GS. I mean damn, it's a SeaSonic KM3. Maybe it's just me, but I would not want to do all this work just to make a tiny upgrade like this. You will never notice a difference and you may end up wondering why you did it.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I wouldn't have even replaced the 1050W GS. I mean damn, it's a SeaSonic KM3. Maybe it's just me, but I would not want to do all this work just to make a tiny upgrade like this. You will never notice a difference and you may end up wondering why you did it.


I'm a rig builder at heart man. But your right I may end up wondering why did I buy another bad boy PSU. It's for a future build possibly. I buy PC stuff all the damn time. Maybe I'll use it in my next build using the GPU Pascal. That might be the plan. I just like to buy PC stuff man. And love to build custom rigs. It's what I do. And to top it off I work my butt off for everything I own. I'm cool with it.

You know what I might just ship the 1000W back and get my money back and order me the EVGA P2 850W model and call it day. I'm a freak like that. That's what I do. Happy Halloween OCN!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I'm a rig builder at heart man. But your right I may end up wondering why did I buy another bad boy PSU. It's for a future build possibly. I buy PC stuff all the damn time. Maybe I'll use it in my next build using the GPU Pascal. That might be the plan. I just like to buy PC stuff man. And love to build custom rigs. It's what I do. And to top it off I work my butt off for everything I own. I'm cool with it.
> 
> You know what I might just ship the 1000W back and get my money back and order me the EVGA P2 850W model and call it day. I'm a freak like that. That's what I do. Happy Halloween OCN!


It's been a while since I've talked with someone on here who has a pure passion for this in the way that you do. I think I've fallen into this mode of thinking that everyone I interact with now is just someone who wants to build a glorified gaming console and be done with it as fast as possible so that they can play their games. So it's very heartening to know you. I didn't intend to discourage you or anything; it's just that I've gotten so used to people leading me to that thought process that I just went through with you above that I've grown into a habit of just jumping straight to it (it's like heading people off at the pass or something lol).


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's been a while since I've talked with someone on here who has a pure passion for this in the way that you do. I think I've fallen into this mode of thinking that everyone I interact with now is just someone who wants to build a glorified gaming console and be done with it as fast as possible so that they can play their games. So it's very heartening to know you. I didn't intend to discourage you or anything; it's just that I've gotten so used to people leading me to that thought process that I just went through with you above that I've grown into a habit of just jumping straight to it (it's like heading people off at the pass or something lol).


I know exactly what you mean. I just have a ton of passion for building rigs. And OCN is my go to place for information and to share information with others. My other passion is building high end road bikes the ones raced in the Tour de France. I have a huge passion for cycling. Both expensive hobbies for me but I love it. And I'm always appreciated and thankful for your help. Thank you!


----------



## Mega Man

I also am with you. I have an s3 and a tx10 crying for a build (s)..... if I told you how many PSUs I have. .. you would probably cry


----------



## Temuka

Guys I want to buy 750 G2 because people recommended it in terms of silence. Can some 750 G2 owners confirm that it's dead silent on low loads ?? And how is noise on medium loads ? thanks in advance


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys I want to buy 750 G2 because people recommended it in terms of silence. Can some 750 G2 owners confirm that it's dead silent on low loads ?? And how is noise on medium loads ? thanks in advance


I have a G2 750 watt and i cant hear it even with the fan always on.
They are not loud.


----------



## rxl-gaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have a G2 750 watt and i cant hear it even with the fan always on.
> They are not loud.


same here i have the 750w and i cannot hear a single noise with and without my headset on best psu i have purchased to date


----------



## looniam

the 750G2 has a fan?!?!


----------



## ajx

Is it a normal behavior from my Supernova G2 550?
When i plug an hard drive WD Black 2 tb besides my main SSD, fan starts, it doesnt seem eco mode runs on
Its completely silent when using only SSD

Here is my config

- Intel I5 5670K
- 970 GTX KFA2
- 16 GB of ram
- SSD (Sandisk Ultra II, 480 tb)
- WD Black 2 tb

Thanks


----------



## DokoBG

Anybody using the G2 1300W ? How is the noise ? I have just ordered it but i keep reading that some people get some loud fans on it...


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DokoBG*
> 
> Anybody using the G2 1300W ? How is the noise ? I have just ordered it but i keep reading that some people get some loud fans on it...


Its not super loud its just because many expect a 1300 watt PSU to be super quiet which it should be obvious its not when its a 1300 watt PSU.


----------



## Temuka

Guys by the way... Is there any chance these PSU-s will be on sale on this black november ?? e.g 650/750/850 units ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys by the way... Is there any chance these PSU-s will be on sale on this black november ?? e.g 650/750/850 units ?


This is something that's probably impossible to predict, but I will say that these PSUs are already EVGA'S loss leaders...


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> This is something that's probably impossible to predict, but I will say that these PSUs are already EVGA'S loss leaders...


Why? Are they so bad ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Why? Are they so bad ?


"Loss leader" means that a company is losing money on the product because of the low prices that they have chosen to sell them for. The term "loss leader" is in no way related to the quality of the product. The G2/P2/T2 lineup is the best of the best because EVGA used the Super Flower Leadex to make it. For some reason though, EVGA has decided to sell these at extremely low prices - prices that are much lower than they should be. Let's put it this way: if Corsair were selling these, then they'd probably be Corsair's most expensive PSUs that they sell.

EVGA's losing money on these, and we are reaping the benefits. We haven't seen any price increases on these yet, so EVGA's probably making enough money on the rest of the products they sell to make up for it, so they probably don't care and are probably happy to be this kind to everyone.


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> "Loss leader" means that a company is losing money on the product because of the low prices that they have chosen to sell them for. The term "loss leader" is in no way related to the quality of the product. The G2/P2/T2 lineup is the best of the best because EVGA used the Super Flower Leadex to make it. For some reason though, EVGA has decided to sell these at extremely low prices - prices that are much lower than they should be. Let's put it this way: if Corsair were selling these, then they'd probably be Corsair's most expensive PSUs that they sell.
> 
> EVGA's losing money on these, and we are reaping the benefits. We haven't seen any price increases on these yet, so EVGA's probably making enough money on the rest of the products they sell to make up for it, so they probably don't care and are probably happy to be this kind to everyone.


Oh I see







English isn't my native language so sometimes slang phrases get me lost







))) Thanks for detailed info,hope 750 G2 will satisfy my silence needs


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Oh I see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> English isn't my native language so sometimes slang phrases get me lost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))) Thanks for detailed info,hope 750 G2 will satisfy my silence needs


Oh. I don't know if "loss leader" is slang. I think it may be more of a technical term.


----------



## Kimir

EVGA unit are less cheaper than they used to be here in EU. For example, the 1600P2 is at 391€ while I can find the Super Flower one at 326€. Same thing for the 1000P2, 250€ vs 206€ (205.99...) the Super Flower one.
edit: I notice that the UK psu cost 30€ less, duh! Just for the power cord, I can pick one up from that thousand I have laying around at work. XD


----------



## Temuka

Guys I have 1 more (maybe strange) question. In terms of silence is 750w enough ? I mean for e.g if my computer makes 300w load won't it be better to have more watt psu to load it less ? and because of that fan will turn on for e.g on 500w load and not on 250-300 (on 750w unit)

+ I saw this sound tests: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7d/7d04bf37_avg_noise.gif

Wasn't quite happy with 750w G2 unit.... maybe I'm wrong or something....

P.S Thing is that silence is a must and I need silence-oriented psu...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys I have 1 more (maybe strange) question. In terms of silence is 750w enough ? I mean for e.g if my computer makes 300w load won't it be better to have more watt psu to load it less ? and because of that fan will turn on for e.g on 500w load and not on 250-300 (on 750w unit)
> 
> + I saw this sound tests: http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7d/7d04bf37_avg_noise.gif
> 
> Wasn't quite happy with 750w G2 unit.... maybe I'm wrong or something....
> 
> P.S Thing is that silence is a must and I need silence-oriented psu...


You won't hear it at all:

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_750/6.html

Quote:


> The following graph illustrates the fan's output noise throughout the entire operating range of the PSU. The same conditions of the above graph apply to our measurements, but the ambient temperature was in-between *28°C and 30°C*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PSU operated in fanless mode at up to about 370-380 W, which kept its noise output to a minimum. Afterward, the fan spun at very low speeds with low loads, producing a relevant amount with only 500-550 W and more load to move any and all heat out of the PSU's enclosure.


You also have to remember that they tested the PSU with a hot ambient temperature of 28-30°C which is 82.4-86°F.


----------



## zanardi

G2 650W is almost dead silent under 500W load.


----------



## Temuka

Ok,I see... thanks guys for detailed info!


----------



## DokoBG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its not super loud its just because many expect a 1300 watt PSU to be super quiet which it should be obvious its not when its a 1300 watt PSU.


Thanks for your feedback. I changed my order to the Evga Supernova 1200 P2. It has plenty of power and it will be quiet at lower loads. It cost be about $50 more but i feel like its worth it in the long run.


----------



## Dave6531

Has anyone made their own cables for these power supplies? Have the 850 p2 trying to figure out pin location


----------



## Mega Man

I have a wiring for the Leadex not the Evga as I don't own then sorry


----------



## DokoBG

I got my brand new beast 1200 P2. How do i become a member ? Just a pic ? It's still brand new in shrink wrap since im waiting on my 6700k.









My old PSU ( OCZ ZX 1250W) is probably 2x lighter than this monster...


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DokoBG*
> 
> I got my brand new beast 1200 P2. How do i become a member ? Just a pic ? It's still brand new in shrink wrap since im waiting on my 6700k.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My old PSU ( OCZ ZX 1250W) is probably 2x lighter than this monster...


Rules for clubs are typically in 1st post or 2...
?


----------



## TwoCables

See? I told you guys that most people don't look at the original post! No one ever listens to me. lol


----------



## DokoBG

Lol yea. I haven't looked at the second post. Usually only first post and change page. As soon as I start building the system ill snap the PSU.


----------



## Temuka

Does anyone know what is the exact weight of 750w G2 with all included cables ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Does anyone know what is the exact weight of 750w G2 with all included cables ?


Amazon.com says that the item weight is 6.6 pounds and the shipping weight is 7.6 pounds.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Amazon.com says that the item weight is 6.6 pounds and the shipping weight is 7.6 pounds.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW


yeah I know that,just wanted to hear from owners if it's true,sometimes amazon detail are far from reality


----------



## looniam

i'd almost be willing to pull mine out, but i don't have a scale . .









judging by just lifting the box - it does add ~2 pounds, thick corrugated and a lot of foam.


----------



## Temuka

I just made the order of EVGA 750w G2







I have big trust in you guys and I really hope it will satisfy my "silent needs" Since I don't live in US,I can't RMA or change or something,so hope everything goes well







"fingers crossed"


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> See? I told you guys that most people don't look at the original post! No one ever listens to me. lol


Hm, what?

Sorry, that was just too easy!









My 1000 G2 is currently being shipped so hopefuly I'll be a member within the week!







I'm still in doubt on whether to get the 1000 P2 or T2 still, but I guess the G2 will suffice just fine. The only advantage for me about the P2 is the eco fan...


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Hm, what?
> 
> Sorry, that was just too easy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 1000 G2 is currently being shipped so hopefuly I'll be a member within the week!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still in doubt on whether to get the 1000 P2 or T2 still, but I guess the G2 will suffice just fine. The only advantage for me about the P2 is the eco fan...


I've got the 1000 P2. the fan profile in general is so much better.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Hm, what?
> 
> Sorry, that was just too easy!


lol you got me laughing and smiling there.


----------



## Dave6531

Well brand new evga 850 p2 doa had it sitting in packaging for little over a month finally got all ly parts and built it temp on old case and bothing cpu fan did three slow rotations and nothing. Tested with my corsair ax760i and fired right up. Ugh dissapointed


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Well brand new evga 850 p2 doa had it sitting in packaging for little over a month finally got all ly parts and built it temp on old case and bothing cpu fan did three slow rotations and nothing. Tested with my corsair ax760i and fired right up. Ugh dissapointed


Is it one of the eco fan ones, my 1600T2 didn't spin up on the fan and I was like "awwww" then I realized that my rig had booted (most of my fans don't come on unless I'm gaming.) My PSU fan has only come on once the entire time I've had it (it's in a separate case with just the HD's in it.)


----------



## ReSpawNnL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> I've got the 1000 P2. the fan profile in general is so much better.


Sounds good, but how do you know? Did you have the 1000 G2 before? Any experience? I'd rather know now than after 2 years, so to speak.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> lol you got me laughing and smiling there.


Mission. Accomplished.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Well brand new evga 850 p2 doa had it sitting in packaging for little over a month finally got all ly parts and built it temp on old case and bothing cpu fan did three slow rotations and nothing. Tested with my corsair ax760i and fired right up. Ugh dissapointed


Are you saying that the entire computer isn't turning on with the 850W P2 but it is with the AX760i? The reason why I'm asking is, all we know so far is, "and bothing cpu fan did three rotations and nothing. Tested with my corsair ax760i and fired right up." Read that and tell me what it tells you.  It doesn't tell me much at all, to be honest. I don't know what "and bothing cpu fan" means, so it makes it difficult to really understand what you're saying.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Mission. Accomplished.


I have to admit that at the time you made me laugh and smile, it was just what I needed at the right time. I was having a bad day, and then you came along and brightened it up!


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Are you saying that the entire computer isn't turning on with the 850W P2 but it is with the AX760i? The reason why I'm asking is, all we know so far is, "and bothing cpu fan did three rotations and nothing. Tested with my corsair ax760i and fired right up." Read that and tell me what it tells you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't tell me much at all, to be honest.
> 
> I have to admit that at the time you made me laugh and smile, it was just what I needed at the right time. I was having a bad day, and then you came along and brightened it up!


Sounds half way decent to me for being awake for 28 hours







but was a bad psu tried it on another system and nothing. Granted could be one of the cables but no way of telling. When using the 850 with the first push of the power button the cpu fan made couple really slow rotations then stopped, if i press it again nothing happens. Yet if i flip the power switch in the back to off then on itll do it again where cpu fan spins slow then nothing after.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Sounds half way decent to me for being awake for 28 hours


LOL









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> but was a bad psu tried it on another system and nothing. Granted could be one of the cables but no way of telling. When using the 850 with the first push of the power button the cpu fan made couple really slow rotations then stopped, if i press it again nothing happens. Yet if i flip the power switch in the back to off then on itll do it again where cpu fan spins slow then nothing after.


Aw crap.


----------



## DavJohnson

Proud owner of a EVGA Supernova G2 1300












Sorry for the bad pictures


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavJohnson*
> 
> 20151108_225313.jpg 2342k .jpg file


Please use OCN´s insert Image button.


----------



## TwoCables

Use the Insert Image button.


----------



## DavJohnson

Sorry still learning where everything is .


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavJohnson*
> 
> Sorry still learning where everything is .


Nah, no need to apologize. I just thought you were wishing we had a better way to post images.


----------



## shilka

In case anyone dont know the new EVGA SuperNova GQ series is rebranded version of the FSP Aurum PT, only it has been made semi modular (24 pin ATX cable ONLY!) and has slightly lower efficiency.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=451

This is a damm good series almost as good as the G2 and just as good as the GS.

EVGA SuperNova lineup explained
As with the GS and PS the GQ does not belong in this club since its not a Super Flower Leadex based series.


----------



## TwoCables

The 850W GQ reviewed: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=451

The conclusions page: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=451


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReSpawNnL*
> 
> Sounds good, but how do you know? Did you have the 1000 G2 before? Any experience? I'd rather know now than after 2 years, so to speak.


I've built 4 computers with the 1000 G2 in them. they make noticeable fan noise in every system, the loudest thing until a noisy clc or gpu spun up high.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> In case anyone dont know the new EVGA SuperNova GQ series is rebranded version of the FSP Aurum PT, only it has been made semi modular (24 pin ATX cable ONLY!) and has slightly lower efficiency.
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=451
> 
> This is a damm good series almost as good as the G2 and just as good as the GS.
> 
> EVGA SuperNova lineup explained
> As with the GS and PS the GQ does not belong in this club since its not a Super Flower Leadex based series.


looks like another custom job from FSP. the internals are different from the Aurum PT.


----------



## Rob27shred

I might as well join the club, all the cool kids are doing it!







I have an EVGA 850w P2 that I used for a couple weeks, great PSU I just needed more power for my current setup (damn 390 & 290X are power HUNGRY!). Definitely will be holding onto this bad boy though, I feel an all red team build coming on over the winter!


----------



## DokoBG

Alright. So my 6700K has arrive and i have unpacked the beast...


----------



## zanardi

So, here is my sad story:
There were no Super Flower Leadex in stock, in my country, so i ordered the Seasonic Snow Silent 750w. Terrible coil whine at ~2m. Returned.
EVGA G2 750w in stock now, so I replace the Seasonic with this. Coil whine only you can hear at under ~1m. Returned.
No Leadex or G2 under 1000w in stock so I replace the G2 with Corsair RMX 750w. Coil whine only you can hear at under ~0.5m or when I enable the motherboard's LEDs.

Can you hear the Leadex/G2 when you put your ear very close to it - even when turned off?
I can replace the RMX with G2 650w or another RMX unit.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zanardi*
> 
> So, here is my sad story:
> There were no Super Flower Leadex in stock, in my country, so i ordered the Seasonic Snow Silent 750w. Terrible coil whine at ~2m. Returned.
> EVGA G2 750w in stock now, so I replace the Seasonic with this. Coil whine only you can hear at under ~1m. Returned.
> No Leadex or G2 under 1000w in stock so I replace the G2 with Corsair RMX 750w. Coil whine only you can hear at under ~0.5m or when I enable the motherboard's LEDs.
> 
> Can you hear the Leadex/G2 when you put your ear very close to it - even when turned off?
> I can replace the RMX with G2 650w or another RMX unit.


Can you hear it when you're just sitting at your computer? I mean, coil whine is harmless. The only time it's a problem is when you can hear it in your normal every day activities. If you have to actually get closer to your computer than you otherwise normally do on a day-to-day basis, then it's not a problem.


----------



## zanardi

Snow Silent was very bad, you could hear it anytime.
G2 had coil whine only when the PC was off.
RMX is much better, you need to put your ear very close to it.
My old Enermax PSUs are free of any coil whine though.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zanardi*
> 
> Snow Silent was very bad, you could hear it anytime.
> G2 had coil whine only when the PC was off.
> RMX is much better, you need to put your ear very close to it.
> My old Enermax PSUs are free of any coil whine though.


If you need to put your ear very close to the RMX in order to hear it, then why return it? Are you doing that several times per day in your normal daily activities or something? I mean, seriously: coil whine is harmless. If you can only hear it when you put your ear right up to it, then it's not worth returning it.


----------



## smiley424

Hello everyone. This is my first PC build in quite a while (modular Psu, leds, watercooling were none existent when I last built a PC with my dad).

I went with a 650 Watt Evga G2 Psu after reading all the great info in thread.

Running a i5-4690k Cpu and Nvidia 980 Ti and everything is working smooth with a mild Cpu overclock. I hope I don't have to, but if I overclock the Cpu and Gpu further, I may need to upgrade my Psu later.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smiley424*
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. This is my first PC build in quite a while (modular Psu, leds, watercooling were none existent when I last built a PC with my dad).
> 
> I went with a 650 Watt Evga G2 Psu after reading all the great info in thread.
> 
> Running a i5-4690k Cpu and Nvidia 980 Ti and everything is working smooth with a mild Cpu overclock. I hope I don't have to, but if I overclock the Cpu and Gpu further, I may need to upgrade my Psu later.


Added and you dont need a bigger PSU unless you are either going to volt mod the BIOS on your GTX 980 Ti or add a second card later


----------



## Temuka

Can someone explain to me how psu can have coil whine when PC is off?!


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Can someone explain to me how psu can have coil whine when PC is off?!


Yeah I was wondering about that too


----------



## TELVM

(Provided PSU is plugged to the wall and PSU is switched on, i.e. receiving AC juice) even when the PC is turned off the PSU's primary area and the +5VSB (standby) rail are always live.

They include coils and other components that sometimes may make audible electronic noises even when the PC is off (but the PSU is still partially on).

If you switch off and/or unplug PSU from wall, any noise will cease.


----------



## TwoCables

Coil whine is the audible vibration of the copper coils:

http://www.fluxeon.com/web_store/images/240uH_Inductor_lg.JPG

It's annoying, but harmless.

If you happen to have extremely high-pitched coil whine, then I have good news: by the time you reach your mid 20s, you won't be able to hear it anymore.


----------



## smiley424

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added and you dont need a bigger PSU unless you are either going to volt mod the BIOS on your GTX 980 Ti or add a second card later


Alright, sounds good then. If i SLI, it will be a couple years at least.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smiley424*
> 
> Alright, sounds good then. If i SLI, it will be a couple years at least.


Even with a mild overclock on your 4690K and two 980 Ti's at stock, the 650W G2 would be enough.


----------



## Dave6531

Really wish my 850 p2 was dead anyone have any experience with evga's rma for power supplies?


----------



## Metros

Could I be added to the EVGA 1600w T2 owners club


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Could I be added to the EVGA 1600w T2 owners club


Added

I just want to let you know that you cant use that cooler on that motherboard unless the motherboard has mounting holes that go all the through the motherboard.
If the motherboard mounting holes dont go all the way through you wont be able to mount the EK Predator, not unless you buy some new screws from the EK webite.

Why you dont get those screws from the get go is beyond me and its stupid.


----------



## Piccolo55

Just got my evga g2 750 today, great deal $109 from newegg plus a $20 rebate on top of that


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Really wish my 850 p2 was dead anyone have any experience with evga's rma for power supplies?


I don't have any personal experience with they're RMA process since I've never had to send anything of theirs in but I hear from other people that Evga's warranty is excellent.







So you shouldn't have any problems getting a replacement.


----------



## Mega Man

Imo the coil whine in most ( not all ) cases is an excuse. Anything with few exceptions in your pc can have it. And it can be caused from many things. Power quality (incoming) and all the equipment variations even can affect it. Kind sick of hearing people go on about it.

And I can still hear that really high coil whine. ( In my 30s atm. Blessed with great hearing )


----------



## Gumbi

Grabbing a 650w Super Flower Leadex Gold to replace my aging (5 years and couting) Super Flower Amazon 650w Bronze. Looking forward to it!


----------



## ondoy

EVGA Black G2/P2/T2 Power Supply Cable Set, Individually Sleeved (100-CK-1300-B9) @ 69.99

just in case someone is interested, they're on sale...


----------



## br3n00cs

So, after reading so many informative topics here (thanks shilka) i've decided that my next build i will be using an EVGA power supply. Actually the system is an i7 6700k + asus maximus hero, 16gb hyperx fury, an AIO WC and probably a 980Ti which i didnt bought yet.

I was searching for an EVGA Supernova 850W G2 and found it for $238 (yeah, im not in US







) but at another store i found EVGA Supernova 1000W P2 for $268. It's only 30 bucks more than the 850W. I know, my system don't need that much of power supply but the price of the 1000W made me think in future upgrades...

Worth paying those $30 more thinking in possible future upgrades (maybe another 980Ti)?


----------



## shilka

You are not going to need 1000 watts for 2x GTX 980 Ti cards unless you either have an AMD FX CPU or an Intel X79/X99 CPU with massive overclocks.
Or if you are going to BIOS volt mod your GTX 980 Ti cards, you can get the P2 but you dont need to.

Also note that the Corsair RMx is an option, added it to this thread yesterday.
1000-1050 watts comparison thread


----------



## TwoCables

The power consumption of the 6700K is very low, even when overclocked. So, a high-end 850W PSU should be all that's needed.


----------



## br3n00cs

Corsair RMx are not avaliable here (at least where i searched). I just wanted to get the 1000w p2 because the difference to 850w g2 is not so much!

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The power consumption of the 6700K is very low, even when overclocked. So, a high-end 850W PSU should be all that's needed.


Isn't it like 57 watts?


----------



## Gumbi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piccolo55*
> 
> Isn't it like 57 watts?


When under load? No it wouod be more than that. Plus most people generally overclock those cards. A GPUless system with a 6700k would do about 200w under load when overclocked. Still nothing compared to an overclocked AMD system


----------



## King4x4

So I think I have joined this club now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piccolo55*
> 
> Isn't it like 57 watts?


I incorrectly told someone that the 6700K at roughly 4.5 GHz could pull 125-150W under full load (by itself). An expert came along and told me that no, it would easily pull less than 125W at that clock speed under load. I still don't know what its power consumption would be *exactly* (that is, at 4.5 GHz under full load), but still - it's *very* low.


----------



## Decade

Oh, oh, oh, oh!

I've had my 750 for about a year, 550 was purchased recently as it doesn't fit with a GPU in my Fractal Design Core 500. Actually ran the 750 externally when I returned a Corsair RM650 because it's coil whine drowned out the acceptable coil whine from my Fury X.... then went to an Antec HCG-620m... fan is louder than both fans on my AIOs at full speed when under 200w or more load... sitting to be re-used elsewhere.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added
> 
> I just want to let you know that you cant use that cooler on that motherboard unless the motherboard has mounting holes that go all the through the motherboard.
> If the motherboard mounting holes dont go all the way through you wont be able to mount the EK Predator, not unless you buy some new screws from the EK webite.
> 
> Why you dont get those screws from the get go is beyond me and its stupid.


I used the correct screws









I will give you a picture later of the build

Now I just got to wait for the ASUS PG348Q


----------



## Cavi

Well, I can be added to the owners list! I bought the 650w P2 for my new build. I posted all my pictures on my PCPartPicker completed build page.

http://pcpartpicker.com/b/CRm8TW

Same user name should confirm it's me


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi*
> 
> Well, I can be added to the owners list! I bought the 650w P2 for my new build. I posted all my pictures on my PCPartPicker completed build page.
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/CRm8TW
> 
> Same user name should confirm it's me


Sory but please fellow the rules in post number 2
Rules


----------



## Cavi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cavi*
> 
> Well, I can be added to the owners list! I bought the 650w P2 for my new build. I posted all my pictures on my PCPartPicker completed build page.
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/b/CRm8TW
> 
> Same user name should confirm it's me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sory but please fellow the rules in post number 2
> Rules
Click to expand...


----------



## TwoCables

Gear porn!


----------



## ReSpawNnL

I shall post some epicsauce gear porn later on, but here is my contribution to the EVGA PSU club!


----------



## MadSupra354

New P2 owner here!


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## Gumbi

Leadex master race







Upgrading from a 5 year old Amazon 650w which served me well.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gumbi*
> 
> Leadex master race
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Upgrading from a 5 year old Amazon 650w which served me well.


Added


----------



## Gumbi

It's not going in that case btw!


----------



## Mega Man

what about this case?


or this [email protected]


----------



## Gumbi

Sweet!









Nah, it's going in my Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 case... I'm hoping the white PSU won't clash with the black case, I only got it white because it saved me a few euro plus the black wasn't available at the time









Looking forward to using a fully modular PSU.


----------



## ansha

My 750 G2 makes a single click sound when I power on/off.
I've read that it's normal, but it looks like EVGA says it's faulty if it makes clicking sound and that it needs to be RMA'ed.
Funny thing is that a friend of mine went through 4 different PSU's (2xG2 and 2xP2) and each of them made the same click sound. EVGA guys insisted that they are faulty if they made the sound. He got tired of it and sold the last one he got.

So what to conclude out of this? Do they sell a huge number of faulty PSUs or they have no clue and continue RMA-ing perfectly good units??


----------



## MadSupra354

My last PSU (Cooler master GX650) clicked every time it powered on/off for the last 5 years. Then again, my P2 doesn't click, so it doesn't make sense why yours does.


----------



## Wezzor

Mine clicks as well.


----------



## Mega Man

It's called a relay. And it is normal


----------



## ansha

Thats what I thought too, but in EVGA they insist that the clicking PSU are returned and then they send you another clicking one.
Is it not strange?


----------



## Mega Man

i bet they misunderstand you


----------



## ansha

I didn't contact them as I believe my PSU is not faulty.
My friend did and he told them he thinks it's a relay and that it's normal but they kept telling him to RMA.
They also said that all 4 of those PSU failed after they tested them.

It's really strange..


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> My 750 G2 makes a single click sound when I power on/off ...


The click comes from the thermistor's relay.


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_750/4.html

While comp is off, the relay keeps the thermistor on-line.

Whenever comp is switched on, the on-line thermistor mitigates inrush current. Then after a brief moment, once the inrush is past, the relay is energized and puts the thermistor off-line (to reduce power losses). One click will be heard.

After comp is switched off, the relay is de-energized and puts the thermistor on-line again, ready to deal with the inrush current next time comp is switched on. Another click.


----------



## ansha

That is clear, but the question is how come they don't know it at EVGA??


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> That is clear, but the question is how come they don't know it at EVGA??


Because EVGA are not the ones making them nor are EVGA tech support PSU experts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> That is clear, but the question is how come they don't know it at EVGA??


Because you weren't talking to a PSU expert who knows their PSUs inside and out - and also because it's not a frequent question.


----------



## ansha

They should put somebody that knows a thing or two about PSUs in charge of the RMA process.
But specialy weird part of the story is that they told him that all the returned clicking PSUs died when they tested them.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> They should put somebody that knows a thing or two about PSUs in charge of the RMA process.
> But specialy weird part of the story is that they told him that all the returned clicking PSUs died when they tested them.


People who know PSUs are very hard to find. It would take EVGA an extremely long time to find someone who not only knows PSUs, but who is also looking for work and would also want to do that job - and that person would also have to apply for that job. They would also have to have a custom-made interview process just to find out if the person is a PSU expert. Who works for EVGA that is a PSU expert and has time for that? Is there anyone there who has the time? Do they know how to conduct an interview? If not, then how would they be trained on the job without falling behind in their work? Would EVGA have to hire a temp to fill their position while they interview job applicants?

I mean, it's not as simple as just finding someone who knows PSUs and then putting them in charge of the RMA process. It's far more complicated and difficult than that.


----------



## jlhawn

Just removed my 6 year old AX1200 with blue sleeved cables and installed a brand new EVGA SuperNova G2 1000w


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Just removed my 6 year old AX1200 with blue sleeved cables and installed a brand new EVGA SuperNova G2 1000w


Wow real good looking pc


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piccolo55*
> 
> Wow real good looking pc


Thank you very much, not many say that due to the Noctua fans.


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Thank you very much, not many say that due to the Noctua fans.


So clean too, enjoy the 1000 psu, I bought a g2 750 thanks to two cables and shilkas advice turning me onto the evga psus


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piccolo55*
> 
> So clean too, enjoy the 1000 psu, I bought a g2 750 thanks to two cables and shilkas advice turning me onto the evga psus


yes they are the reason I went with EVGA this time after reading all their advice to others, my Corsair AX1200 was and still is a good psu but it's getting old
and I like to plan ahead instead of having a breakdown


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> yes they are the reason I went with EVGA this time after reading all their advice to others, my Corsair AX1200 was and still is a good psu but it's getting old
> and I like to plan ahead instead of having a breakdown


Yeah good idea, You regester your psu to get the warrenty yet?


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piccolo55*
> 
> Yeah good idea, You regester your psu to get the warrenty yet?


Yes I did as I bought it a year ago when they had the recall on them so I returned it for another, I have had it sitting in my closet as I was going to put together another build but nothing has impressed me enough to fork out the money as my system still performs very good.


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Yes I did as I bought it a year ago when they had the recall on them so I returned it for another, I have had it sitting in my closet as I was going to put together another build but nothing has impressed me enough to fork out the money as my system still performs very good.


I see


----------



## TwoCables

The AX1200 is a very very very high-end PSU, so you have a fantastic back-up just in case. That thing should easily still have a few years in it, especially with your system's super low power-draw on it.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The AX1200 is a very very very high-end PSU, so you have a fantastic back-up just in case. That thing should easily still have a few years in it, especially with your system's super low power-draw on it.


I agree, I had the AX1200 as in the past in my system I had 2 GTX 580's and 5 hdd's, then I had 2 GTX 680's and 5 hdd's.
now with ssd's and only 1 hdd I don't even need the 1000w but I already had it purchased for a high power build but I'm gonna wait
awhile till intel comes up with something worth spending my money on or if my old X58 and 6 core cpu ever die.
Heck I'm not even running my GTX 980 I tried it but with my display settings gaming I don't need it so I'm saving it and just run my GTX 970.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The AX1200 is a very very very high-end PSU, so you have a fantastic back-up just in case. That thing should easily still have a few years in it, especially with your system's super low power-draw on it.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, I had the AX1200 as in the past in my system I had 2 GTX 580's and 5 hdd's, then I had 2 GTX 680's and 5 hdd's.
> now with ssd's and only 1 hdd I don't even need the 1000w but I already had it purchased for a high power build but I'm gonna wait
> awhile till intel comes up with something worth spending my money on or if my old X58 and 6 core cpu ever die.
> Heck I'm not even running my GTX 980 I tried it but with my display settings gaming I don't need it so I'm saving it and just run my GTX 970.
Click to expand...

Two GTX 680s has a much lower power consumption that two GTX 580s. Even so, two GTX 580s in that system wouldn't require anything "bigger" than a high-end 850W PSU because if the 580s were at stock but the CPU was overclocked pretty well, then the power consumption while gaming would have stayed under 800W pretty easily.









So, I would bet that *your* AX1200 (as opposed to just ANY one) probably could have lasted 10 years without much of a problem.

*Edit:* Looking at that reference cooler never gets old!!! I love it! It's so badass looking.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Two GTX 680s has a much lower power consumption that two GTX 580s. Even so, two GTX 580s in that system wouldn't require anything "bigger" than a high-end 850W PSU because if the 580s were at stock but the CPU was overclocked pretty well, then the power consumption while gaming would have stayed under 800W pretty easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I would bet that *your* AX1200 (as opposed to just ANY one) probably could have lasted 10 years without much of a problem.
> 
> *Edit:* Looking at that reference cooler never gets old!!! I love it! It's so badass looking.


back when I built my system with the 2 580's I didn't know anything about what a system uses to power each item so I just thought more power would be better.
as for the reference cooler yes they look nice but when I tested the 980 it would hit 85c real quick while gaming, I had to set a fan profile with afterburner but then it was
loud, my GTX 970 G1 over clocked to 1575mhz never goes over 68c with auto fan, and then the fans are very quiet as they only ramp up to 55% while gaming.
I wish I had a G1 GTX 980 but hey the PNY 980 was FREE!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Two GTX 680s has a much lower power consumption that two GTX 580s. Even so, two GTX 580s in that system wouldn't require anything "bigger" than a high-end 850W PSU because if the 580s were at stock but the CPU was overclocked pretty well, then the power consumption while gaming would have stayed under 800W pretty easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I would bet that *your* AX1200 (as opposed to just ANY one) probably could have lasted 10 years without much of a problem.
> 
> *Edit:* Looking at that reference cooler never gets old!!! I love it! It's so badass looking.
> 
> 
> 
> back when I built my system with the 2 580's I didn't know anything about what a system uses to power each item so I just thought more power would be better.
> as for the reference cooler yes they look nice but when I tested the 980 it would hit 85c real quick while gaming, I had to set a fan profile with afterburner but then it was
> loud, my GTX 970 G1 over clocked to 1575mhz never goes over 68c with auto fan, and then the fans are very quiet as they only ramp up to 55% while gaming.
> I wish I had a G1 GTX 980 but hey the PNY 980 was FREE!
Click to expand...

Wow. So then that cooler sucks even though it looks awesome. :/ Damn.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. So then that cooler sucks even though it looks awesome. :/ Damn.


it's as loud as my old reference blower 580's were.
I did replace the thermal paste on the 980 and brought it down 8c.

how accurate is the info from my battery backup? this it what is say's I'm using right now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. So then that cooler sucks even though it looks awesome. :/ Damn.
> 
> 
> 
> it's as loud as my old reference blower 580's were.
> I did replace the thermal paste on the 980 and brought it down 8c.
> 
> how accurate is the info from my battery backup? this it what is say's I'm using right now
Click to expand...

Whoa. *Very*. I'm impressed. That's software, too. Is it using Black Magic? lol

According to my Kill A Watt, my PSU can pull *almost* that much when I'm just chilling in Firefox. I don't know why either, but sometimes it just does. Other times it will idle very low.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whoa. *Very*. I'm impressed. That's software, too. Is it using Black Magic? lol
> 
> According to my Kill A Watt, my PSU can pull *almost* that much when I'm just chilling in Firefox. I don't know why either, but sometimes it just does. Other times it will idle very low.


yeah I normally don't trust software to check things like this, I learned long ago when I installed my AX1200 and HW Monitor showed the 12volts were at 11.25v, no way, I used a very good digital volt meter and it showed it at 12.81v I don't think my system would have ran at 11.25v but I could be wrong.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whoa. *Very*. I'm impressed. That's software, too. Is it using Black Magic? lol
> 
> According to my Kill A Watt, my PSU can pull *almost* that much when I'm just chilling in Firefox. I don't know why either, but sometimes it just does. Other times it will idle very low.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah I normally don't trust software to check things like this, I learned long ago when I installed my AX1200 and HW Monitor showed the 12volts were at 11.25v, no way, I used a very good digital volt meter and it showed it at 12.81v I don't think my system would have ran at 11.25v but I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

Yeah, lol, software is notorious for being wrong about PSU voltages. 11.40V is apparently the lowest acceptable by ATX standards:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX#Physical_characteristics (scroll up just a little bit to see the small chart)


----------



## fat4l

So I finally had some time to swap the fan on my Superflower leadex 1200W platinum unit.
I didn't like the white fan so I decided to swap it for the black one, that is used in Evga and Superflower 1600W/2000W units.
You can clearly see the difference in blade design(9 vs 7).
Also the black one is considerably quiter while keeping the same rpm.


----------



## Melan

Hi. I've noticed that amazon in my area started selling EVGA supernova G2 units and I wanted to "upgrade" my XFX 850w lots-a-wires I got when old PSU died taking GPU and mobo with it. Pricing is pretty much within comfortable 120 euro range for 550W unit but here's the thing, 650W costs only 10 euro more and I'm kinda lost if I need 550 or 650 unit.

Edit: My rig is in my sig (duh), and 970 clocks up to 1450 if necessary.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> Hi. I've noticed that amazon in my area started selling EVGA supernova G2 units and I wanted to "upgrade" my XFX 850w lots-a-wires I got when old PSU died taking GPU and mobo with it. Pricing is pretty much within comfortable 120 euro range for 550W unit but here's the thing, 650W costs only 10 euro more and I'm kinda lost if I need 550 or 650 unit.
> 
> Edit: My rig is in my sig (duh), and 970 clocks up to 1450 if necessary.


For 10EUR I'd just get the 650W, it won't hurt to have a little extra headroom and a year from now you might have a system that needs 650W.


----------



## Melan

Yeah, I'd rather avoid getting another upgrade if I decide to go on something more power hungry (which I might). Many thanks.


----------



## Jiryama

Hello! I recently got the EVGA SuperNOVA 850w G2.

I am happy to say that it is a very solid and well built PSU in the quality category! Also, it did turn on when I used the accompanied PSU Tester! (Which was brilliant thank you Evga!) Now to go back in the box for a month or two.










Spoiler: Evga Pics


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hello! I recently got the EVGA SuperNOVA 850w G2.
> 
> I am happy to say that it is a very solid and well built PSU in the quality category! Also, it did turn on when I used the accompanied PSU Tester! (Which was brilliant thank you Evga!) Now to go back in the box for a month or two.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Evga Pics


Please fellow the rules in post number 2 if you want to be added to the owners list.
Rules


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Please fellow the rules in post number 2 if you want to be added to the owners list.
> Rules


Apologies, thought the 750/850 in pic was enough than just clarifying.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## Vesimas

Would be enough an 850W G2/P2 for an i7 6700k, 2 SSD (1 m.2, 1 sata), 1 mechanical HD, 1 GTX 970 (or 1 future Pascal/Arctic Island) and maybe a custom loop (with let's say 12 fan for rad plus some fan for airflow)? Ty


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesimas*
> 
> Would be enough an 850W G2/P2 for an i7 6700k, 2 SSD (1 m.2, 1 sata), 1 mechanical HD, 1 GTX 970 (or 1 future Pascal/Arctic Island) and maybe a custom loop (with let's say 12 fan for rad plus some fan for airflow)? Ty


Its massive overkill you can have 3x GTX 970 cards with a 850 watt PSU.
A good 450 watt PSU could power your system as it is, if you want to add a second GTX 970 then you are looking at a 650 watt PSU.


----------



## Desolutional

I think the more important question would be how much is the 850W G2/P2 versus. a "good" 450W equivalent. Might actually end up being not too much more expensive, and covers you if you ever wish to install a power hungry AMD Fury X or even crossfire AMD cards.


----------



## shilka

850 watt is massive overkill for any single video card unless we are talking about an EVGA Kingpin card cooled with LN2.


----------



## Kimir

More like 1200-1600 watt needed when pushing a KPE card on LN2 with 1.62-1.7v.
850 is good for watercooled/chilled water at 1.4v or so.

Got myself a 650P2 for my second R4BE+4930K+980KPE.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> More like 1200-1600 watt needed when pushing a KPE card on LN2 with 1.62-1.7v.
> 850 is good for watercooled/chilled water at 1.4v or so.
> 
> Got myself a 650P2 for my second R4BE+4930K+980KPE.


Added


----------



## Vesimas

Good to know. I Think there is alzo the 750w p2 available.


----------



## shilka

Unless you are going to have 2x video cards or run BIOS volt mods you dont need more then a 550 watt PSU.


----------



## Desolutional

Futureproofing. Go for the best value vs. the absolute minimum. SSD storage works the same way, 256GB is far more value than 128GB. Might not need 256GB, but it's there for reassurance sake. Ditto to the power supply. At the end of the day, it's the user who has to think about what they might end up doing with their rig. A good PSU should easily last more than 5 years. Japanese caps will do that with these great quality power supplies. Far more likely to upgrade the GPU, mobo, etc. before the PSU. They cost a lot more than a PSU too.


----------



## Denzel

Picked up my Evga 850 P2



Also picked up Evga Braided cables.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzel*
> 
> Picked up my Evga 850 P2
> 
> 
> 
> Also picked up Evga Braided cables.


Why not the CableMod cables? those are better
Added to the owners list.


----------



## Denzel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why not the CableMod cables? those are better
> Added to the owners list.


It's really down to personal preference. Both cables have minimal differences to each other for consideration of which is the better? They both do the same job. I preferred the Evga cables as they are obviously supported for the PSU, and I'm not nit picky enough to have a locking mechanism that the CableMod offers.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Denzel*
> 
> It's really down to personal preference. Both cables have minimal differences to each other for consideration of which is the better? They both do the same job. I preferred the Evga cables as they are obviously supported for the PSU, and I'm not nit picky enough to have a locking mechanism that the CableMod offers.


I have a EVGA PSU now with EVGA red cables and they are very nice, I had the Corsair AX1200 psu with their blue cables and they seem to be the same quality as the EVGA. The EVGA cables are not as stiff as Corsair cables which is nice and easier to work with.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I have a EVGA PSU now with EVGA red cables and they are very nice, I had the Corsair AX1200 psu with their blue cables and they seem to be the same quality as the EVGA. The EVGA cables are not as stiff as Corsair cables which is nice and easier to work with.


I had the Corsair type 1 cables for my AX back in the day and they where terrible they felt like cheap plastic and way too rough and as you said way too stiff.
The EVGA cables should be much better quality.

I have a CableMod cable set in red myself but i never get around to unpack it and install it, when i have time to install it i forget about it so its just sitting on a shelf.
I am building a new system next year so i will probably end up with a G2 or P2 for that system and install the cables in that system instead.


----------



## Mega Man

you doing better old friend ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you doing better old friend ?


A little bit yes.


----------



## Melan

I thought about getting cablemod too but unfortunately they don't offer full cable set in EU (at least from my short observations). I would REALLY like to throw away that awful 8 pin EPS cable with extra 8 pin extension.

Edit: oops nvm. Apparently I missed EPS part on basic kit herp a derp derp.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> I thought about getting cablemod too but unfortunately they don't offer full cable set in EU (at least from my short observations). I would REALLY like to throw away that awful 8 pin EPS cable with extra 8 pin extension.
> 
> Edit: oops nvm. Apparently I missed EPS part on basic kit herp a derp derp.


See you are not on the owners list so did i forget to add you or did you not ask to be added?


----------



## Melan

I never asked for this. (But thanks anyways)

Btw, does it do anything different if I connect my GPU with single extended VGA (6 pin + 8 pin) wire compared to hooking it up to VGA1 and VGA2 separately? I might just get the 50 euro basic kit and be happy until I try to SLI something.


----------



## Temuka

My baby finally arrived


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> 
> 
> My baby finally arrived


Make sure you do the sniff test of the box and unit!


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> Make sure you do the sniff test of the box and unit!


Sure


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> 
> 
> My baby finally arrived


Added


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melan*
> 
> I never asked for this. (But thanks anyways)
> 
> Btw, *does it do anything different if I connect my GPU with single extended VGA (6 pin + 8 pin) wire compared to hooking it up to VGA1 and VGA2 separately?* I might just get the 50 euro basic kit and be happy until I try to SLI something.


if you mean with a 970 that's in your sig rig, not likely _but_
http://www.overclock.net/t/1583186/do-i-need-two-separate-pci-e-cables-for-my-xfx-r9-390/0_50#post_24683191

though they are differences (GS as opposed to G2 and 390 ect.) you may want to try out using one cable run a bunch of firestrike benches, then use two and run a few more to see if you notice anything better/worse before ordering.


----------



## Kimir

The power supply doesn't know what software or bench you are using. There should be no difference at all as long as you have enough power. The G2/P2/T2 unit have a single 12v rail so splitting isn't needed.
On multiple 12v rail design, issues could occur if you exceed the rated spec of a rail (amp), if it doesn't blackout instantly, you'll indeed suffer from not enough power delivered to the card.


----------



## BoredErica

My EVGA P2 1000w unit is making a high-ish pitch sound when its fans are on. If run on ECO mode the fan never kicks in because the amount of power my computer uses is very small compared to its rated 1000w of power. It's not a deal breaker, but it's sorta annoying.

It's that type of higher pitched sound where moving your head several inches to the right negates the noise... The noise also seems to come and go from time to time.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> My EVGA P2 1000w unit is making a high-ish pitch sound when its fans are on. If run on ECO mode the fan never kicks in because the amount of power my computer uses is very small compared to its rated 1000w of power. It's not a deal breaker, but it's sorta annoying.
> 
> It's that type of higher pitched sound where moving your head several inches to the right negates the noise... The noise also seems to come and go from time to time.


you should contact EVGA and rma the unit, they will advance rma by shipping you a new unit before they get the defective unit by holding your credit card number
until they receive the defective unit, they will not charge your credit card unless they don't receive the defective unit in the allowed time they give you.


----------



## Temuka

very silent operation with eco mode off,will it make sense to turn it on?


----------



## shilka

The G2 is much more efficient then the OCZ PSU you had before which means it dumps a lot less heat in your case.
Remember to update your sig with your new parts.


----------



## Temuka

Yeap that was my concern







Info updated


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Yeap that was my concern
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Info updated


May i ask why you have not done it the right way?
"How to put your Rig in your Sig"


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> May i ask why you have not done it the right way?
> "How to put your Rig in your Sig"


I was too lazy to do that







Now it's updated


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> I was too lazy to do that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's updated


Are you running your system off your TV?


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Are you running your system off your TV?


Yes,I've hooked my PC to my TV,I watch movies and play games on huge monitor







I think that is the best solution for playing and watching movies together







I even can't imagine to play games on 24-27 size monitors again







why you ask ?







)))


----------



## Mega Man

ill keep my monitors ! far better then any tv !


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill keep my monitors ! far better then any tv !


pfff.... OK


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Yes,I've hooked my PC to my TV,I watch movies and play games on huge monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that is the best solution for playing and watching movies together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even can't imagine to play games on 24-27 size monitors again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why you ask ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )))


Just noticed you had no monitor
But if you want to play games a PC monitor is always going to be better

And you can get 1440P monitors for a decent price these days which means a 1080P TV is going to be even worse for gaming.


----------



## TwoCables

I sincerely doubt that anyone who has a *55"* display for a computer monitor is going to replace it with anything smaller, regardless of any potential benefits. If I had enough room for a bigger monitor, then I'd go for it (I would love to have a 55" display for a computer monitor). However, I *like* my desk hutch. I'm not giving that up.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I sincerely doubt that anyone who has a *55"* display for a computer monitor is going to replace it with anything smaller, regardless of any potential benefits.


Size does not matter if the pictures looks like crap, i would rather have a smaller but better looking screen vs a bigger screen any day of the week.
1080P on a 55 is almost too few pixels on too big a screen, 4K on a 55 inch would make more sense then.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I sincerely doubt that anyone who has a *55"* display for a computer monitor is going to replace it with anything smaller, regardless of any potential benefits.
> 
> 
> 
> Size does not matter if the pictures looks like crap, i would rather have a smaller but better looking screen vs a bigger screen any day of the week.
Click to expand...

He's extremely happy with it though, so I doubt that it looks like crap. You're assuming that it looks like crap and you're also assuming that he would be happy with a SMALLER display. Let the man enjoy his huge 55" display.


----------



## shilka

I did not assume anything i voiced my own opinion and if he does not agree thats fine its his screen and eyes.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I did not assume anything i voiced my own opinion and if he does not agree thats fine its his screen and eyes.


Yes you did. You are assuming that it looks like crap. If it looks like crap, then why is he so extremely *happy* with it?

In addition to asking him to replace that giant 55" display with something SMALLER (a downgrade in his opinion), you are also asking him to spend money.


----------



## TwoCables

Temuka? Can you help me out here?


----------



## Temuka

Guys OK,I will try to explain









First thing is that I have very good vision and hearing from birth,because of that I was always siting far away from monitors/speakers. Now I own 55" TV (yes I know it's 1080,but I bought it 3 years ago,and that days 1440 and 4K were crazy prices) and I use it from 15-16 ! feet distance







I perfectly know differences between monitors and tv-s,so I don't need some kinda protection as a little child







Yes I know also that there is ppi difference and everything,but assuming that I'm sitting very far away from TV,believe me there are NO ugly pixels or anything when playing games,surfing or doing something else.

Believe me,If I lived in usa and I was one of you guys neighbour,I would invite you to my place with your monitor,let you play for like 10 minutes on yours and than to play on my 55" TV,record that exitement and joy on your face and put video here : ))) But I don't live in USA and can't do that : )))

It's comparable when people drive sedan car,they just can't understand benefits of driving suv ( e.g BMW E39 and X5) But when they drive SUV,they don't want anymore to sit in tiny cars and feel like their ass is on asphalt.

Of course when you sit in front of 55"TV from 2 feet distance and play games or surf internet,it will give you headache/eye problems,but please,just understand that I sit very far away and picture is really clear (it's a pity I cannot prove it but only write)

So,there is nothing to argue about,if there were 1440 monitors with 50/55/60 sizes available for good prices,of course I would upgrade,but there aren't,so I will just wait and enjoy what I have,because it's perfect solution for me









P.S If my words aren't enough,you can listen to Linus for example













P.S.S Sorry for bad english and cheers


----------



## TwoCables

Thank you, Temuka!

This is exactly the impression that I was getting from you before.


----------



## Mega Man

I have a 60 inch 3d. Still only my htpc is connected.

I'll start with you like it and that's great! But there are reasons pc monitors are far greater then tvs. Biggest being input lag. Tvs have built in programs to sharpen the pictures ect. And it massively hurts pcs. Tvs are native to 24hz so the input lag, even on console games does not hurt that much. Now it is starting to change but I doubt it ever will.


----------



## Metros

I have a EVGA 1600w T2 and I keep getting hard crashes during gaming, so I went back to drivers 359.00 (from 359.06) and I turned ECO off my PSU and I stopped getting hard crashes (so far) so do you think ECO gave me the hard crashes or was it drivers. I will test each one soon, however I just want to ask here.

EVGA 1600w T2
GTX 980ti Lightning SLI (however one was used during hard crash) not overclocked
5930K 4.4Ghz
32GB DDR4 RAM 3000Mhz
MSI X99 Godlike
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB
Samsung 850 Pro 1TB
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
EK Predator 360mm
Corsair 780t
BeQuiet case fans (6 of them)

Thanks


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I have a EVGA 1600w T2 and I keep getting hard crashes during gaming, so I went back to drivers 359.00 (from 359.06) and I turned ECO off my PSU and I stopped getting hard crashes (so far) so do you think ECO gave me the hard crashes or was it drivers. I will test each one soon, however I just want to ask here.
> 
> EVGA 1600w T2
> GTX 980ti Lightning SLI (however one was used during hard crash) not overclocked
> 5930K 4.4Ghz
> 32GB DDR4 RAM 3000Mhz
> MSI X99 Godlike
> Samsung 950 Pro 512GB
> Samsung 850 Pro 1TB
> Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
> EK Predator 360mm
> Corsair 780t
> BeQuiet case fans (6 of them)
> 
> Thanks


I'm 99% sure it was that awful 359.06 driver, lots of bad reports on it including from me.
I haven't had a driver or any type of crash on my system since 2010 and I installed 359.06 and nothing but TDR's while gaming,
returned to older driver and I'm all good.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> I'm 99% sure it was that awful 359.06 driver, lots of bad reports on it including from me.
> I haven't had a driver or any type of crash on my system since 2010 and I installed 359.06 and nothing but TDR's while gaming,
> returned to older driver and I'm all good.


I just had hard crashes on every game I played after about 3-4 hours, even without SLI.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I just had hard crashes on every game I played after about 3-4 hours, even without SLI.


check in windows event viewer I'm sure it will show some kind of nvidia kernal crash.
sometimes the crash won't look like the standard TDR, for some reason the past 8 months of nvidia drivers crash without giving the TDR pop up window half the time.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> check in windows event viewer I'm sure it will show some kind of nvidia kernal crash.
> sometimes the crash won't look like the standard TDR, for some reason the past 8 months of nvidia drivers crash without giving the TDR pop up window half the time.


I could not do anything, I had to press the restart button.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I could not do anything, I had to press the restart button.


sometimes I had to push my reset button when the screen would just go black and I good still hear the game audio
with a loud buzz, then other times it would just freeze the game and I could ctrl alt delete and bring up task manager
and close the game and I could see the TDR pop up was open on the bottom right of my screen.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> sometimes I had to push my reset button when the screen would just go black and I good still hear the game audio
> with a loud buzz, then other times it would just freeze the game and I could ctrl alt delete and bring up task manager
> and close the game and I could see the TDR pop up was open on the bottom right of my screen.


Thanks for the replies, I will try with ECO mode on tomorrow, if it starts crashing I will have to think about why it is crashing during ECO mode.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, I will try with ECO mode on tomorrow, if it starts crashing I will have to think about why it is crashing during ECO mode.


Yeah my EVGA PSU model doesn't have the ECO so I don't much about it.


----------



## Kimir

eco or not, 1600w is much more than you need with your config, so yeah it must be the driver.


----------



## Silent Scone

Eco mode is great if you like the smell of new solder.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> eco or not, 1600w is much more than you need with your config, so yeah it must be the driver.


I will test tomorrow, however I have a feeling it was doing it before with driver 359.00 when I had ECO turned on.


----------



## Cool Mike

Hello, Any news on a release of a titanium 800W-1200W PSU in the near future?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Hello, Any news on a release of a titanium 800W-1200W PSU in the near future?


No news other then 1000/1200 T2 is on their way

Titanium is a waste of money anyway so dont bother just get a G2 or a P2, 80 plus has nothing to do with quality if you are not already aware.
Titanium does not make much sense for less then 1000 watts so i really dont think we will ever see a T2 lower then 1000 watt


----------



## Swiftes

my 750 G2 went bang on me the other day, was literally playing Fallout 4 one minute, the next what sounded like a gunshot and total shutdown.

Took the fuse in the plug and tripped my mains electrics too!!

luckily Scan RMA is good so have had it back to them and another on its way to me sharpish.


----------



## shilka

Bad one off´s happen to everyone so i hope you wont blame EVGA and/or Super Flower


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Bad one off´s happen to everyone so i hope you wont blame EVGA and/or Super Flower


of course, first psu to go bang on me so its all good









lets just hope it hasn't taken anything else out with it.


----------



## TwoCables

Is it really as loud as a gunshot?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is it really as loud as a gunshot?


Depends if you are talking about a .22 gunshot or a .44 Magnum gunshot.


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Depends if you are talking about a .22 gunshot or a .44 Magnum gunshot.


Haha. yes there can be bad one offs, if you had say a cx 750 I don't think id be saying its a one off. that respones is really for the guy whos psu went bang, for you is maybe its was a .44 magmun sounding lol


----------



## Silent Scone

I had an Enermax Liberty 550w die on me along time ago that left shrapnel in the wall, that too sounded like a gun shot lol.

Talking probably over 10 years ago though


----------



## shilka

Jonnyguru.com once had a PSU that launched a capacitor clean off the PCB and with enough force to jam into the fan grill and that was through the fan.
Cant recall which one it was.


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Jonnyguru.com once had a PSU that launched a capacitor clean off the PCB and with enough force to jam into the fan grill and that was through the fan.
> Cant recall which one it was.


One of the first units I ever reviewed: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=68


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> One of the first units I ever reviewed: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=68


Ah yes that one

Still laughing about that years later


----------



## Oklahoma Wolf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Ah yes that one
> 
> Still laughing about that years later


And then there was the "950W" - http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=106


----------



## shilka

Jesus 988mv of ripple in the CL2 test


----------



## Piccolo55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> And then there was the "950W" - http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=106


What a ****ty psu lol


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Ah yes that one
> 
> Still laughing about that years later


Remember Q-Tec 500w units?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> Remember Q-Tec 500w units?


No


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> No


Oh, well they're on par with the former


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oklahoma Wolf*
> 
> And then there was the "950W" - http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=106


That psu was in a league of its own. What an abomination.


----------



## Archea47

When I leaked a Lot of water in my previous G2 1300 watt (while in service), then dried and turned on again, the sound was pretty close to a gun shot







my ears were still ringing a bit 20 minutes later (had my head in the case at the time). There was also a bright flash from inside the PSU. Components survived and still overclock well


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> ... a PSU that launched a capacitor clean off the PCB and with enough force to jam into the fan grill and that was through the fan ...


For your pleasure Shilka







:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> For your pleasure Shilka
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LMAO


----------



## Metros

Hello

I got a EVGA 1600w T2 and it seems there is coil whine, unsure though. It sounds like an electrical buzz. Sounds like it is near the plug of the PSU. It happens during idle and load. It is a new PSU

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

just a fyi there is nothing to worry about with coil whine, just in case you are worrying about a defect


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just a fyi there is nothing to worry about with coil whine, just in case you are worrying about a defect


Thanks


----------



## TwoCables

Coil whine is simply the vibration of the coils on the inductor. Here's a generic photo of an inductor:

http://www.fluxeon.com/web_store/images/240uH_Inductor_lg.JPG

The vibration is always happening, but when you're hearing it, it's vibrating at a rate that you can actually hear. Changing the power consumption will change the rate at which it vibrates, thereby possibly causing it to vibrate at a frequency that you can't hear. Most people simply call this "eliminating coil whine".


----------



## Mystriss

It seems it is just random which ones get whine and which don't. I just got my T2 1600 like what a month and a half ago and it's perfectly silent. The only problem I have with it is that my sound card is picking up electrical interference off it heh (its just the one card that's above the PSU, the others further away are not affected)


----------



## shilka

Coil whine on the Super Flower Leadex platform is far less common then it is on the Seasonic XP2/XP3


----------



## Mega Man

Whine can be caused by input power, components connected to psu or just psu.....


----------



## Harrywang

I'm thinking of purchasing a 650 W superflower leadex gold open box. Is this the same exact power supply as the evga g2??


----------



## Mega Man

no the modular conectors are different but they are based on the same platform


----------



## Harrywang

What about the performance? Will I get the exact same performance as a g2?


----------



## TwoCables

EVGA used the Super Flower Leadex to make the G2, so they're both the same, and they are both absolutely amazing PSUs.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> EVGA used the Super Flower Leadex to make the G2, so they're both the same, and they are both absolutely amazing PSUs.


Thank you just wanted to make absolutely sure.

I'm using a 520W antec high current gamer atm however I feel as though it's not enough. I have an i5 2500k with an r9 280x and using 5x pwm fans my overclocking of my CPU hasn't been stable at all. Before I got the r9 280x it was pretty stable at 4.5ghz at 1.36v but now it would BSOD instantly in prime 95. Back when I first got it (2011) it was stable for 12 hours. Is there a possibility it could be the PSU or because the CPU is just getting old?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> EVGA used the Super Flower Leadex to make the G2, so they're both the same, and they are both absolutely amazing PSUs.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you just wanted to make absolutely sure.
> 
> I'm using a 520W antec high current gamer atm however I feel as though it's not enough. I have an i5 2500k with an r9 280x and using 5x pwm fans my overclocking of my CPU hasn't been stable at all. Before I got the r9 280x it was pretty stable at 4.5ghz at 1.36v but now it would BSOD instantly in prime 95. Back when I first got it (2011) it was stable for 12 hours. Is there a possibility it could be the PSU or because the CPU is just getting old?
Click to expand...

It has to be the CPU because you changed a huge variable and you changed the power consumption by changing the video card.

What all did you do to determine the 2500K's stability at 4.5 GHz? Don't be afraid to bury me in details.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It has to be the CPU because you changed a huge variable and you changed the power consumption by changing the video card.
> 
> What all did you do to determine the 2500K's stability at 4.5 GHz? Don't be afraid to bury me in details.


Prime 95 for about 12 hours. Gaming for countless hours. It was stable until the summer of last year where I was getting BSOD here and there while gaming. So for a good 1-2 years it was relatively stable. It was also hot in the summer so the temps got a little bit higher then usual (60-70c). Ever since then I would get more bsods. Before I was using a 560 TI.

Edit: So having a difference video card means I would need higher volts for my stable oc???


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It has to be the CPU because you changed a huge variable and you changed the power consumption by changing the video card.
> 
> What all did you do to determine the 2500K's stability at 4.5 GHz? Don't be afraid to bury me in details.
> 
> 
> 
> Prime 95 for about 12 hours. Gaming for countless hours. It was stable until the summer of last year where I was getting BSOD here and there while gaming. So for a good 1-2 years it was relatively stable. It was also hot in the summer so the temps got a little bit higher then usual (60-70c). Ever since then I would get more bsods. Before I was using a 560 TI.
> 
> Edit: So having a difference video card means I would need higher volts for my stable oc???
Click to expand...

I forgot to say too that Sandy Bridge CPUs have a tendency to require a very long break-in period where suddenly at some point they begin needing a much higher core voltage. The same thing happened to mine, but after I made a big increase to its voltage, it was fine and it has *been* fine ever since too. So, that might be the only thing that's happening here.

Many years ago, I had what I thought was a stable overclocked system (an E8400 @ 4.05 GHz). I upgraded the video card from a GTX 260 to a GTX 470 and suddenly I no longer had a stable system.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I forgot to say too that Sandy Bridge CPUs have a tendency to require a very long break-in period where suddenly at some point they begin needing a much higher core voltage. The same thing happened to mine, but after I made a big increase to its voltage, it was fine and it has *been* fine ever since too. So, that might be the only thing that's happening here.
> 
> Many years ago, I had what I thought was a stable overclocked system (an E8400 @ 4.05 GHz). I upgraded the video card from a GTX 260 to a GTX 470 and suddenly I no longer had a stable system.


Ah. Yeah I'll have to do more testing. Kinda lame that I need higher then 1.36 for 4.5ghz. Wanted to get the g2/leadex but saving money is good to.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I forgot to say too that Sandy Bridge CPUs have a tendency to require a very long break-in period where suddenly at some point they begin needing a much higher core voltage. The same thing happened to mine, but after I made a big increase to its voltage, it was fine and it has *been* fine ever since too. So, that might be the only thing that's happening here.
> 
> Many years ago, I had what I thought was a stable overclocked system (an E8400 @ 4.05 GHz). I upgraded the video card from a GTX 260 to a GTX 470 and suddenly I no longer had a stable system.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah. Yeah I'll have to do more testing. Kinda lame that I need higher then 1.36 for 4.5ghz. Wanted to get the g2/leadex but saving money is good to.
Click to expand...

heh, look at my sig rig.


----------



## Cyb3r

the g2'S are really nice i swapped my thermaltake thoughpower 750 for one


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> heh, look at my sig rig.


Thats insane T_T

I forgot to mention that it started bsoding a lot more recently when I started OCing my video card with somewhat higher volts. The BSOD number is 101 which means more vcore that is why I thought it could be the PSU. But I'll do more testing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> heh, look at my sig rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats insane T_T
> 
> I forgot to mention that it started bsoding a lot more recently when I started OCing my video card with somewhat higher volts. The BSOD number is 101 which means more vcore that is why I thought it could be the PSU. But I'll do more testing.
Click to expand...

Oh, you didn't tell me you were overclocking the video card. That's different; you do need a 550W G2 or equivalent or better for that.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, you didn't tell me you were overclocking the video card. That's different; you do need a 550W G2 or equivalent or better for that.


That is what I was wondering. 520w doesn't seem to be enough for an i5 2500k + r9 280x with heavy overclocks. I'll use stock r9 280x and try to test my OC for my i5 2500k.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, you didn't tell me you were overclocking the video card. That's different; you do need a 550W G2 or equivalent or better for that.
> 
> 
> 
> That is what I was wondering. 520w doesn't seem to be enough for an i5 2500k + r9 280x with heavy overclocks. I'll use stock r9 280x and try to test my OC for my i5 2500k.
Click to expand...

That PSU has a +12V capacity of only 480W, and the vast majority of a computer runs on 12V power. So yeah, it's very limiting. The good quality-made 550W PSUs we recommend have a +12V capacity of 540W, which is 60W more. For what you want to do though, you might be better off getting a good 650W PSU, which will have a +12V capacity of 648W.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That PSU has a +12V capacity of only 480W, and the vast majority of a computer runs on 12V power. So yeah, it's very limiting. The good quality-made 550W PSUs we recommend have a +12V capacity of 540W, which is 60W more. For what you want to do though, you might be better off getting a good 650W PSU, which will have a +12V capacity of 648W.


Thank you for your help! I thought so! I am going to be picking up a new Superflower Leadex gold 650w tomorrow for 90$. I think that should be more then enough?

The g2/leadex gold is widely recommended as some of the best psus because of it's ripple supression and efficiency. Is there any PSU brands that have BETTER ripple supression then these?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That PSU has a +12V capacity of only 480W, and the vast majority of a computer runs on 12V power. So yeah, it's very limiting. The good quality-made 550W PSUs we recommend have a +12V capacity of 540W, which is 60W more. For what you want to do though, you might be better off getting a good 650W PSU, which will have a +12V capacity of 648W.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your help! I thought so! I am going to be picking up a new Superflower Leadex gold 650w tomorrow for 90$. I think that should be more then enough?
Click to expand...

If you're still not sure after what I said, then there's not much more that I can say. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> The g2/leadex gold is widely recommended as some of the best psus because of it's ripple supression and efficiency. Is there any PSU brands that have BETTER ripple supression then these?


For what you're doing, the Leadex is already *extreme* overkill in quality.  However if you're still interested in the best of the best, then the new Corsair RM*x* series is beating the Leadex by a little bit (the 'x' is an extremely important distinction - don't forget the 'x'), so the RMx is the new winner - but not for its price. heh

The Leadex platform would be a great choice for a professional competitive overclocker who wants to win world championships in overclocking. So yeah, you'll be covered. lol


----------



## Harrywang

I've ran into a problem. I am trying to figure out the dimensions of the 650 W Super Flower Leadex. On it's website it says its 200mm(L) x 150mm(W) x 86mm(H) which is to large for my case as I have a bottom mounted fan and it only allows up to 170mm in length.

I am not sure how accurate the website specifications are as I looked into the other leadex gold sizes and they are all specified as the same dimensions. I looked in EVGA's website for the g2 and it places the 650w at 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 165mm (L) which is just under the clearance for my case.

Can anyone confirm the dimensions of a 650w Super Flower Leadex?


----------



## TwoCables

EVGA didn't just repaint the Leadex; they used the Leadex platform. So of course theirs can be a different size, and it very well could be.

I don't know if it's really 200mm, but everything I've found says it's 200mm long.

Do you honestly need that bottom-mounted fan? You only have one video card...


----------



## shilka

A bottom mounted fan is pointless if you have your PC on the floor, so dont bother it wont make your temps much better if any at all.


----------



## TwoCables

Well my point is, why bother with extra fans if you only have one video card? I have an overclocked GTX 780 and an overclocked 2500K, and my temps are fine with this cheap fan setup:


A generic 1200 RPM 120mm intake fan on the front
A generic 1200 RPM 120mm exhaust fan on the rear
A generic 1200 RPM 120mm exhaust fan on the side
A generic 1200 RPM 120mm exhaust fan on the top

My only reason for the side and top fans is, more light. The rear exhaust, top exhaust and side exhaust are all super bright LED fans. lol If it weren't for their lights, then I'd probably only have a front intake and a rear exhaust.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> I've ran into a problem. I am trying to figure out the dimensions of the 650 W Super Flower Leadex. On it's website it says its 200mm(L) x 150mm(W) x 86mm(H) which is to large for my case as I have a bottom mounted fan and it only allows up to 170mm in length.
> 
> I am not sure how accurate the website specifications are as I looked into the other leadex gold sizes and they are all specified as the same dimensions. I looked in EVGA's website for the g2 and it places the 650w at 85mm (H) x 150mm (W) x 165mm (L) which is just under the clearance for my case.
> 
> Can anyone confirm the dimensions of a 650w Super Flower Leadex?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> EVGA didn't just repaint the Leadex; they used the Leadex platform. So of course theirs can be a different size, and it very well could be.
> 
> I don't know if it's really 200mm, but everything I've found says it's 200mm long.
> 
> Do you honestly need that bottom-mounted fan? You only have one video card...


well guys, I can tell you 100% this "200 mm" stuff is superflower straight up derping out with an incorrect spec and several other stores and reviews blindly quoting it without so much as using their brain power or a ruler to measure it. the Leadex 650 watt is 180 mm long, same as the 750 watt version. this review also quotes the incorrect 200 mm length, but they show it next to the 160 mm AX760 and they show it mounted in the HAF XB with the hard drive cage in. here you see that the HAF XB officially support psu up to 180 mm only and has ~210 mm of total space. the leadex 650 gold is definitely not 200 mm long. of course the bad news is that it's still too big for what Harrywang needs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A bottom mounted fan is pointless if you have your PC on the floor, so dont bother it wont make your temps much better if any at all.


this is not necessarily true. cases with 25 mm+ elevation will do fine with bottom mounted fans. they certainly can make a big impact on gpu temps too.


----------



## TwoCables

That's good to know, but we still need to find a PSU that's shorter than 170mm or prove that the bottom fan isn't needed. I'd rather prove that the bottom fan isn't needed.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That's good to know, but we still need to find a PSU that's shorter than 170mm or prove that the bottom fan isn't needed. I'd rather prove that the bottom fan isn't needed.


indeed he'll either have to get a different psu or go without the bottom fan. from the size limit it sounds like he wants to mount a 140 mm fan in the bottom of a Fractal Define R5 case, and in that case the bottom fan isn't needed for a single gpu system. if indeed he's using the define R5 he can settle for a 120 mm bottom intake fan and still have 190 mm of room for the psu, problem solved. @Harrywang, you using a Define R5 case?


----------



## TwoCables

It looks like he's using the Define S:

http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6394238


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It looks like he's using the Define S:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6394238


okay, it's a cheapened up R5 and the psu/fan clearance is 10 mm less. so he can do a 120 mm fan with the Leadex 650 in there.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It looks like he's using the Define S:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6394238
> 
> 
> 
> okay, it's a cheapened up R5 and the psu/fan clearance is 10 mm less. so he can do a 120 mm fan with the Leadex 650 in there.
Click to expand...

Oh wow. Thank you, PureBlackFire!


----------



## PureBlackFire

you're welcome Two Cables.


----------



## Harrywang

Amazing detective work guys lol. Unfortunately I will be keeping my 140mm bottom intake as my r9 280x does run relatively hot when overclocked + summer. It's the reason why I recently switched my case and fans. In the summer it gets relatively hot where I live.

I find it kind of odd that while the all the leadex gold series have similar or exact dimensions as the g2 series, only the 650W seems different. The g2 is is only 165MM in length which will fit onto my case however in this picture the 650w leadex looks a lot longer then 165mm.



If it is indeed 180mm like the 750w then I will have to buy the g2 when ti's on sale


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Amazing detective work guys lol. Unfortunately I will be keeping my 140mm bottom intake as my r9 280x does run relatively hot when overclocked + summer. It's the reason why I recently switched my case and fans. In the summer it gets relatively hot where I live.
> 
> I find it kind of odd that while the all the leadex gold series have similar or exact dimensions as the g2 series, only the 650W seems different. The g2 is is only 165MM in length which will fit onto my case however in this picture the 650w leadex looks a lot longer then 165mm.
> 
> 
> 
> If it is indeed 180mm like the 750w then I will have to buy the g2 when ti's on sale


That's a Corsair PSU of some kind.

Anyway, what store(s) can you order from?


----------



## Harrywang

That's an ax760 thats 160mm in length. The leadex is supposed to be either 165mm or 180mm. Looking like 180mm TBH

I can order from newegg.ca as I live in Canada and it's the only place with stock. It's 140$ not including shipping and tax which is going to get very expensive. I could of just got a 650w leadex for a flat 90$. If anyone has a 650w leadex and can confirm the dimensions that would be great!!!


----------



## TwoCables

Does this help at all?

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1

I'm asking honestly.


----------



## shilka

If space is such a big problem why not get a Cooler Master V instead? those are just 140mm long so they fit in about every case.
Comes in both semi and fully modular versions, the fully modular version is way overpriced but if you need a small PSU the V is about as good as you can get.

You dont need more then a 550 watt PSU if you are never going to have more then one video card.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If space is such a big problem why not get a Cooler Master V instead? those are just 140mm long so they fit in about every case.
> Comes in both semi and fully modular versions, the fully modular version is way overpriced but if you need a small PSU the V is about as good as you can get.
> 
> You dont need more then a 550 watt PSU if you are never going to have more then one video card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Does this help at all?
> 
> http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1
> 
> I'm asking honestly.


Yeah I will probably never use more then 1 video card. You guys think my antec 520w HCG is holding me back from getting a stable OC on my CPU? If I buy a 550w g2 will it make a considerable difference in terms of OCing?

Yeah there all 130-140$ in price range. Doesn't really matter where I get it because I can just price match it in NCIX.

Also I have confirmed the 650w leadex is 180mm =( Got measurements from somebody that has it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If space is such a big problem why not get a Cooler Master V instead? those are just 140mm long so they fit in about every case.
> Comes in both semi and fully modular versions, the fully modular version is way overpriced but if you need a small PSU the V is about as good as you can get.
> 
> You dont need more then a 550 watt PSU if you are never going to have more then one video card.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Does this help at all?
> 
> http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1
> 
> I'm asking honestly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I will probably never use more then 1 video card. You guys think my antec 520w HCG is holding me back from getting a stable OC on my CPU? If I buy a 550w g2 will it make a considerable difference in terms of OCing?
> 
> Yeah there all 130-140$ in price range. Doesn't really matter where I get it because I can just price match it in NCIX.
> 
> Also I have confirmed the 650w leadex is 180mm =( Got measurements from somebody that has it.
Click to expand...

No. Don't forget that the only reason why I am recommending that you replace it is, you want to overclock the 280X. If you keep that at stock, then the only thing holding the CPU back would be the CPU itself - just like mine. Remember the break-in period?


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No. Don't forget that the only reason why I am recommending that you replace it is, you want to overclock the 280X. If you keep that at stock, then the only thing holding the CPU back would be the CPU itself - just like mine. Remember the break-in period?


Yep. I fully understand







Thank you all for the wonderful help. I've been to many "owner clubs" and the PSU guys are definitely the most helpful









For now I will leave the r9 280x at stock and fiddle around with my i5 2500k until I get a 550w G2 or RMx. Whatever goes on sale first.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No. Don't forget that the only reason why I am recommending that you replace it is, you want to overclock the 280X. If you keep that at stock, then the only thing holding the CPU back would be the CPU itself - just like mine. Remember the break-in period?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. I fully understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for the wonderful help. I've been to many "owner clubs" and the PSU guys are definitely the most helpful
Click to expand...

Aw, thanks.  I feel very privileged and blessed to be able to help out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> For now I will leave the r9 280x at stock and fiddle around with my i5 2500k until I get a 550w G2 or RMx. Whatever goes on sale first.


The G2 it is then. hehe


----------



## looniam

i'll just leave this here:
http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/news/article.php?storyid=13914
Quote:


> Ocaholic Review Hall of Fame for 2015 - SuperFlower Leadex Gold 850W
> 
> 22.12.2015: During this year we have published more than 300 articles and reviews of both computer hardware as well as gaming and standard peripherals. As we draw closer to the end of the year, we have selected a couple of reviews of products that managed to get the top score, just in case you missed some of them back when they were published.


SuperFlower Leadex Gold 850W


----------



## Harrywang

Hey guys. Me again. Will be getting a g2 on boxing day but I want to make sure I'm getting the right wattage so I don't have to spend any extra and be as efficient as possible.

I have read that if using a single video card you don't need more then 550w. However since I will be heavily OCing everything in my system is 550w really enough?

I have put my info into this website powersupplycalculator.net which seems to be the most accurate calculator I've come across so far advises that my max load power during gaming would be around 470watts when OCing my cpu to 4.5ghz. It recommends a PSU higher then 590w.

This is my setup :

i5 2500k
r9 280x
1 tb HD
250GB ssd
5 140mm fans
2 150mm fans (noctua d15)
2 4gb ram sticks

If leaving at stock I know 550w is more then enough. However I plan on HEAVILY ocing my CPU, GPU AND ram. Im assuming I should just get the 650w to be safe?? I really do hate spending more then I need so if 550w is pushing it I will just get the 650w. Sorry for asking this question again as I want to be 100% sure!!


----------



## shilka

The system you have there would never go above 400 watts.
Not unless you are going to BIOS volt mod your video card.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The system you have there would never go above 400 watts.
> Not unless you are going to BIOS volt mod your video card.


Even with heavy overclocks? I plan on going for 4.5ghz at 1.36v~, I might even try to go for a 5.0ghz at some point. My r9 280x is stable at 1170/1600 at 1.269 volts. I haven't oc'd my ram yet but I will be doing that eventually because I love ocing


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Even with heavy overclocks? I plan on going for 4.5ghz at 1.36v~, I might even try to go for a 5.0ghz at some point. My r9 280x is stable at 1170/1600 at 1.269 volts. I haven't oc'd my ram yet but I will be doing that eventually because I love ocing


Might be an older video but the power draws have not changed much since so its still vaild




Forget everything he says about efficiency in this video he got that part wrong so you can skip that.









All of those videos are going to tell you the same thing as long as you have a single video card in your system the power draw is never going to more then 400 watts and often much less.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The system you have there would never go above 400 watts.
> Not unless you are going to BIOS volt mod your video card.
> 
> 
> 
> Even with heavy overclocks? I plan on going for 4.5ghz at 1.36v~, I might even try to go for a 5.0ghz at some point. My r9 280x is stable at 1170/1600 at 1.269 volts. I haven't oc'd my ram yet but I will be doing that eventually because I love ocing
Click to expand...

you'll be fine with 550 watts.

with my sandy i7 @4.4Ghz 1.3v is 184 watts at the wall running prime. running both prime and kombuster (furmark) on a 780TI @1174 1.25v was 535 watts

i replaced the 780TI with a volt and power target modded 980TI ([email protected]) and saw 565 watts (peak) w/prime and kombuster. that 565 watts "at the wall" is really 509 watt *accounting for 90% efficiency*.

kombuster will draw a ton more power than under gaming loads since my _killowatt reading was around 330-325 while gaming_; which is the peak i saw while booting into windows.

you're fine.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The system you have there would never go above 400 watts.
> Not unless you are going to BIOS volt mod your video card.


It seems my hard restarts that I was having was due to driver 359.06, as after I uninstalled it, my crashing stopped.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It seems my hard restarts that I was having was due to driver 359.06, as after I uninstalled it, my crashing stopped.


That driver version sucks so thats the driver not your PSU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Forget everything he says about efficiency in this video he got that part wrong so you can skip that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of those videos are going to tell you the same thing as long as you have a single video card in your system the power draw is never going to more then 400 watts and often much less.


I watched this Jayz video once and I was absolutely disgusted because he incorrectly teaches that the efficiency of a PSU affects how much power it can deliver to a computer. This is absolutely false information and it really angers me that he's getting away with it. I feel that you can't believe a word this guy says because of this one bit of incorrect information! I'd rather listen to someone who doesn't open their mouth unless they are going to deliver 100% accurate information. That way, I can sit back and relax knowing that I can trust everything they're telling me to be 100% accurate.

@Harrywang: please try to avoid so-called "power supply calculators". First, none of them deserve to be called a "calculator". They are *estimators*, and very bad ones. They are all extremely inaccurate and it makes me very angry that they are allowed to exist because they mislead everyone who uses them. Your computer is not going to hurt the 550W G2 or RMx, even with those big overclocks. However, there's no harm in using a high-end 650W PSU, except it will cost you more money to purchase.

*Edit:* I apologize, shilka. I didn't see "Forget everything he says about efficiency in this video he got that part wrong so you can skip that." It doesn't stick out at all, and I didn't see it until I edited my post just now to delete the part of it that I'm not responding to.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Jay is a source of entertainment for biased information.


----------



## TwoCables

lol


----------



## Harrywang

Thanks for the confirmation guys!! 550W g2 it is









I watched jaytwocents for 2 minutes and turned it off.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation guys!! 550W g2 it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I watched jaytwocents for 2 minutes and turned it off.


LOL 

Anyway, just for the record, there's no harm in getting a good quality-made 650W PSU or even a 750W PSU. It would just cost more money. lol


----------



## shilka

I know that video sucks but if i post the Linus one everyone and their mom is going to whine about how old it is and thats its outdated.
Which its not by the way.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I know that video sucks but if i post the Linus one everyone and their mom is going to whine about how old it is and thats its outdated.
> Which its not by the way.


I don't see why anyone would say that if you're making sure to clearly state that the information is still just as valid today as it was when he made the video.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't see why anyone would say that if you're making sure to clearly state that the information is still just as valid today as it was when he made the video.


It has happend more then once that some yahoo has come in and said that everything i said is wrong and a load of crap because the video is too old and its outdated and everything now a days draws over 9000 watts.
I won't argue with anyone like that its pointless, might as well try and talk to a brick wall then about as productive.

Its times like that when i just let you respond instead.

Just because something is not brand new does not make it wrong or outdated.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't see why anyone would say that if you're making sure to clearly state that the information is still just as valid today as it was when he made the video.
> 
> 
> 
> It has happend more then once that some yahoo has come in and said that everything i said is wrong and a load of crap because the video is too old and its outdated and everything now a days draws over 9000 watts.
> I won't argue with anyone like that its pointless, might as well try and talk to a brick wall then about as productive.
> 
> Its times like that when i just let you respond instead.
> 
> Just because something is not brand new does not make it wrong or outdated.
Click to expand...

When that has happened, were you saying in the post that contained the video that you realize the video's post date is old but the information is still just as valid today as it was when Linus made the video?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When that has happened, were you saying in the post that contained the video that you realize the video's post date is old but the information is still just as valid today as it was when Linus made the video?


I did try but like i said like talking to a brick wall.
He or she or whatever refused to listen to anything i had to say.

Probably someone that was pissed off about one of my posts or threads or something, dont know dont care.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> When that has happened, were you saying in the post that contained the video that you realize the video's post date is old but the information is still just as valid today as it was when Linus made the video?
> 
> 
> 
> I did try but like i said like talking to a brick wall.
Click to expand...

I'm talking about the content of your post that contained Linus' video.

I'm saying that I don't see why anyone would believe some jerk who says you're wrong if you've clearly stated in the post that contains the video that the information is still valid.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm talking about the content of your post that contained Linus' video.


I did say the video was still vaild even if it was a bit old because power draws have not changed all that much.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm talking about the content of your post that contained Linus' video.
> 
> 
> 
> I did say the video was still vaild even if it was a bit old because power draws have not changed all that much.
Click to expand...

In the same post as the video? Or after you were challenged?


----------



## shilka

After the complaining


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> After the complaining


That's why it's ineffective. You have to *always* post the statement *in the same post as the video.* You have to beat everyone to the punch. You have to anticipate the trolls. Don't be negative though; be professional and positive about it.

Stating that the information is still just as valid today as it was when Linus made the video should be a standard part of posting the video. Avoid the trolls. Y'know? Don't wait for some jerk to come along to challenge you.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> After the complaining


I should not have said anything, Battlefield 4 just gave me a freeze, the AIO pump was trying to push more water then the AIO fans went up. So now I am not sure if it is unstable OC (although Prime95 was stable after 24 hours) or PSU

Just a quick question my CPUTIN after the crash was at 116c, however some people online say it gives out a lot of errors.


----------



## Harrywang

shilka the linus video was very informative and helpful to me







thank you for posting that +rep!

It was using a 2600k so it's very relevant to me as I have a 2500k. I was actually very suprised that using sli 580 that it only pulled 520w with CPU oc'd as well.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> shilka the linus video was very informative and helpful to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you for posting that +rep!
> 
> It was using a 2600k so it's very relevant to me as I have a 2500k. I was actually very suprised that using sli 580 that it only pulled 520w with CPU oc'd as well.


That was 520 watts from the wall which means you still have to take the efficiency of the PSU off.
The power draw of that system in that video is about 470 watts give or take a little either way.

So as you can see all those yahoos thats say OMG you need at least a 1000 watt PSU for SLI are clearly wrong.

A good 650-750 watt PSU is more then enough for a system with two video cards.
Unless you are messing around with BIOS volt mods, or you have an Intel X79/X99 CPU or an AMD FX CPU as those are monster power hogs when overclocked.


----------



## br3n00cs

Entering the club


----------



## shilka

Added to the list.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A good 650-750 watt PSU is more then enough for a system with two video cards.
> Unless you are messing around with BIOS volt mods, or you have an Intel X79/X99 CPU or an AMD FX CPU as those are monster power hogs when overclocked.


Okay, I appreciate your caveats and have posted this here before. But since this is overclock.net I think we should allow for the possibility that there will be some heavy overclocking going on

This does not require BIOS mods - can all be done in software on windows without altering the GPU bios. And this is with a G2 so it's relevant. Obviously an edge case but something to be aware of:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1436497/official-amd-r9-290x-290-owners-club/33420#post_23296223

I think the term you're looking for is generously increased voltage, not necessarily BIOS mods.

Now that I own a Kill-a-Watt I should take some measurements of my own on my (heavily overclocked and volted @ 1.65 Vcore) AMD FX and dual 290X system


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A good 650-750 watt PSU is more then enough for a system with two video cards.
> Unless you are messing around with BIOS volt mods, or you have an Intel X79/X99 CPU or an AMD FX CPU as those are monster power hogs when overclocked.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I appreciate your caveats and have posted this here before. But since this is overclock.net I think we should allow for the possibility that there will be some heavy overclocking going on
> 
> This does not require BIOS mods - can all be done in software on windows without altering the GPU bios. And this is with a G2 so it's relevant. Obviously an edge case but something to be aware of:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1436497/official-amd-r9-290x-290-owners-club/33420#post_23296223
> 
> I think the term you're looking for is generously increased voltage, not necessarily BIOS mods.
> 
> Now that I own a Kill-a-Watt I should take some measurements of my own on my (heavily overclocked and volted @ 1.65 Vcore) AMD FX and dual 290X system
Click to expand...

We already know what he will be doing because we've talked with him in detail about what he will be doing, so that's how we can be so sure. We wouldn't be making statements with this level of confidence if we weren't sure about what he will be doing.

So yeah, we got this. Thanks though.


----------



## ProclusLycaeus

In with my EVGA 1200 P2.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProclusLycaeus*
> 
> In with my EVGA 1200 P2.


Added

May i ask why you picked the Asus PG278Q when the newer and much better PG279Q is out now.
You are aware that its a TN panel monitor you bought right?

If you can spend that much on hardware you would have been better off with the PG279Q instead as its an IPS panel monitor.


----------



## ProclusLycaeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added
> 
> May i ask why you picked the Asus PG278Q when the newer and much better PG279Q is out now.
> You are aware that its a TN panel monitor you bought right?
> 
> If you can spend that much on hardware you would have been better off with the PG279Q instead as its an IPS panel monitor.


I actually already had the monitor, I just put it in the "group photo".


----------



## shilka

Never mind then.
Are you planing on having a 4x way video card setup or something?


----------



## ProclusLycaeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Never mind then.
> Are you planing on having a 4x way video card setup or something?


Planning on at least 2 cards ... Pascals, when they come out ... maybe 3 tops.

I could have gone with the EVGA 1000 P2, but when I bought the power supply, the 1200 was on sale and was only like $15 more than the 1000, so I went with overkill.


----------



## Archea47

Rebuild My Girl's Box and decided to put the old G2 1000W I used to have in a past life of Daedalic (it has G2 1300W now)


Love these G2s







I was able to re-use some of the extra cables from the EVGA cable I used for the 1300


----------



## Harrywang

I'm so mad. I ordered a g2 550w for 115$ CAD off newegg.ca during boxing day because my local NCIX wasn't doing any price matches on that day and it was going for 140$ there. I was hoping it would arrive before NYE but nope and now the NYE sale at the local ncix is having a g2 650w for 99$.









At least I get better efficiency for my build...right??


----------



## ansha

Here is something interesting, really mediocre/bad results for G2 750 in this group test.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> I'm so mad. I ordered a g2 550w for 115$ CAD off newegg.ca during boxing day because my local NCIX wasn't doing any price matches on that day and it was going for 140$ there. I was hoping it would arrive before NYE but nope and now the NYE sale at the local ncix is having a g2 650w for 99$.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least I get better efficiency for my build...right??


Yeah, totally! And you don't have to deal with that stupid dual cpu daisy chain cable the 650 uses!

FULL DISCLOSURE: I just got two 550 G2s because the price was good $109CDN (DirectCanada) and would have jumped on a $99 650 G2. Except I wanted better efficiency and one cable with the 4+4 plug.


----------



## TwoCables

The difference in efficiency would probably be unnoticeable, extremely negligible. We're talking about two very high-end units here and a capacity difference of only 100W. It's not like you wanted to buy a high-end 1600W PSU but instead went with a 550W PSU. Besides, it's only a difference of $15. Would you have ever needed a 650W PSU?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> Here is something interesting, really mediocre/bad results for G2 750 in this group test.


Its either a bad one off or they are not using the stock EVGA cables.
Dont know that site either so i am not going to trust any results from there.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The difference in efficiency would probably be unnoticeable, extremely negligible. We're talking about two very high-end units here and a capacity difference of only 100W. It's not like you wanted to buy a high-end 1600W PSU but instead went with a 550W PSU. Besides, it's only a difference of $15. Would you have ever needed a 650W PSU?


Probably not. But I do hate not getting the best deals!! Lol. 15$ cheaper would of got me 100+ more watts for headroom just in case! Oh well the 550w should be awesome as well. I can't wait for it to arrive lol. I didn't know getting a high end PSU could be so exciting.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Probably not. But I do hate not getting the best deals!! Lol. 15$ cheaper would of got me 100+ more watts for headroom just in case! Oh well the 550w should be awesome as well. I can't wait for it to arrive lol. I didn't know getting a high end PSU could be so exciting.


Yeah, I wish more people could appreciate PSUs.


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Probably not. But I do hate not getting the best deals!! Lol. 15$ cheaper would of got me 100+ more watts for headroom just in case! Oh well the 550w should be awesome as well. I can't wait for it to arrive lol. I didn't know getting a high end PSU could be so exciting.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, I wish more people could appreciate PSUs.


The PSU is the heart of any system. Crappy power supply = crappy system no matter the other components.

Excellent power supply = stable system (Operator not included).

Installing my 3rd G2 now and not only have my overclocks been more stable, my love life has improved and even the cats like me.


----------



## shilka

lol


----------



## NFL

Just ordered a 650 G2, no more squeaking fan (hopefully).


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> The PSU is the heart of any system. Crappy power supply = crappy system no matter the other components.
> 
> Excellent power supply = stable system (Operator not included).
> 
> Installing my 3rd G2 now and not only have my overclocks been more stable, my love life has improved and even the cats like me.


lol...thx I needed a laugh


----------



## NFL

Lookie at what showed up at my door today!



Also, to whoever came up with the CPU pwr cable...know that I kind of hate you right now


----------



## Thoth420

Looking for a Uninterruptable Power Supply for my main system running an Evga P2 750 watt. It will have one monitor and a router hooked up to it as well.

I read that the wrong UPS can damage your system and I don't know much about power stuff. The main function is brownout protection, I don't plan on running my sytem during a full on outage or anything.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Looking for a Uninterruptable Power Supply for my main system running an Evga P2 750 watt. It will have one monitor and a router hooked up to it as well.
> 
> I read that the wrong UPS can damage your system and I don't know much about power stuff. The main function is brownout protection, I don't plan on running my sytem during a full on outage or anything.


Don't think of it as running the 750W G2; it will be powering the PSU while the PSU powers the computer. It won't be pulling 750W. So, you find out how much power the PSU is pulling from the wall at maximum, and then you go from there.

Based on your system, I'll guess that it pulls around 450-500W from the wall at maximum.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

These units are bargain compared to some. Customer service is 2nd to none & that has me hooked more than anything!


----------



## shilka

Seems like the 750 and 1300 watt G2 are by far the most common units in this club.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Seems like the 750 and 1300 watt G2 are by far the most common units in this club.


that would make sense as the 750 G2 has to be the most popular psu in the series by far and the 1300 G2 has the best cost/watt ratio on the market for 1000+ watt units.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Seems like the 750 and 1300 watt G2 are by far the most common units in this club.


Only four of us in the EVGA 1600w T2 club


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Don't think of it as running the 750W G2; it will be powering the PSU while the PSU powers the computer. It won't be pulling 750W. So, you find out how much power the PSU is pulling from the wall at maximum, and then you go from there.
> 
> Based on your system, I'll guess that it pulls around 450-500W from the wall at maximum.


Sorry should have clarified. I meant the type of backup. As in what type of sine wave is compatible with the EVGA P2 which I believe is active PFC(correct me if I am wrong please).


----------



## Mega Man

I don't know but pure sine wave is ALWAYS better for pc components


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't know but pure sine wave is ALWAYS better for pc components


That's good enough of an answer for me. Cheers.


----------



## Harrywang

Finally got it hooked up and running. Was able to get my i5 2500k to stable again at 4.5ghz but this time with higher volts, at 1.37 to 1.40max! Damn degradation. Anyways I'm pretty happy about the power supply but I'm kind of dissapointed about the VGA cables. My r9 280x requires two 8 pin connectors...

Any tips on wire management would be greatly helpful. I never knew modular supplies were this messy? lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Finally got it hooked up and running. Was able to get my i5 2500k to stable again at 4.5ghz but this time with higher volts, at 1.37 to 1.40max! Damn degradation. Anyways I'm pretty happy about the power supply but I'm kind of dissapointed about the VGA cables. My r9 280x requires two 8 pin connectors...
> 
> Any tips on wire management would be greatly helpful. I never knew modular supplies were this messy? lol.


I don't understand the problem. Just use the single cable that has two 6+2-pin PCI-E connectors on it.

That must be a loud rig with all of those fans. You only have one video card, so you really don't need 5 case fans.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't understand the problem. Just use the single cable that has two 6+2-pin PCI-E connectors on it.
> 
> That must be a loud rig with all of those fans. You only have one video card, so you really don't need 5 case fans.


Could you elaborate? I need a 8+8 pin for that GPU. The PSU only comes with one 6-Pin + 8(6+2) and one 8(6+2)-Pin PCI-E VGA Cable. So I had to use the solo 8 pin AND the 8 + 6 pin to connect thats why you see the 6 pin hanging. Unless I am missing something here lol.

Actually fans have came a long way and with my setup they are near dead silent. There all PWM controlled and they don't make a single sound. The only thing I can hear from my comptuer during idle AND load is my GPU fans. Even when stress testing I have it so they don't make any noise unless over 70c (which rarely happens) otherwise it's very quiet.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Could you elaborate? I need a 8+8 pin for that GPU. The PSU only comes with one 6-Pin + 8(6+2) and one 8(6+2)-Pin PCI-E VGA Cable. So I had to use the solo 8 pin AND the 8 + 6 pin to connect thats why you see the 6 pin hanging. Unless I am missing something here lol.
> 
> Actually fans have came a long way and with my setup they are near dead silent. There all PWM controlled and they don't make a single sound. The only thing I can hear from my comptuer during idle AND load is my GPU fans. Even when stress testing I have it so they don't make any noise unless over 70c (which rarely happens) otherwise it's very quiet.


The JonnyGURU review says this PSU has 3 x 6+2-pin PCI-E connectors, so that's why I was like, "Um.... just use the one cable". Apparently though they got it wrong: the single cable has 1 x 6+2-pin PCI-E connector and 1 x 6-pin. That's stupid. The 550W GS has 4 x 6+2-pin PCI-E connectors.


----------



## Horgen

May I still join?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Larger than I need... Even for future plans. But the difference between G2 1000W and G2 1300W was equal to 8$ so why not?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> May I still join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger than I need... Even for future plans. But the difference between G2 1000W and G2 1300W was equal to 8$ so why not?


That's pretty good because neither of them has ECO Mode, and so it might be a little quieter than the 1000W version!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> May I still join?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Larger than I need... Even for future plans. But the difference between G2 1000W and G2 1300W was equal to 8$ so why not?


Added


----------



## Horgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That's pretty good because neither of them has ECO Mode, and so it might be a little quieter than the 1000W version!


Stronger fan so no... The only minus with this PSU is the idle fan speed. They could have lowered it 200rpm or so.
Any good ideas on how to clean it for dust without opening it up?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> Stronger fan so no... The only minus with this PSU is the idle fan speed. They could have lowered it 200rpm or so.
> Any good ideas on how to clean it for dust without opening it up?


Use a can of compressed air to blow the dust out, but let it dry for a few hours as compressed air can leave some vapor.


----------



## Horgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> Stronger fan so no... The only minus with this PSU is the idle fan speed. They could have lowered it 200rpm or so.
> Any good ideas on how to clean it for dust without opening it up?


Any alternatives to canned air. That will be expensive over time.

Edit: this was meant to be to you Shilka.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> Any alternatives to canned air. That will be expensive over time.
> 
> Edit: this was meant to be to you Shilka.


You can always blow into it with your mouth thats free.
Works fine if there is a lot of dust as i have cleaned more then one PSU that way.

Just do it out of a window or door trust me its a pain in the butt to clean up if you do it in a chair or sofa.


----------



## Kimir

Datavac or other air compressor will do too.
However, with big compressor used for car (the big ones) make sure there is a filter.


----------



## Horgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Datavac or other air compressor will do too.
> However, with big compressor used for car (the big ones) make sure there is a filter.


if only the 220V wasn't so expensive compared to the 110V version.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> if only the 220V wasn't so expensive compared to the 110V version.


Hmm, yeah 120€ here.
There is also this kind of stuff
Black & Decker
Revolution'Air


----------



## Horgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Hmm, yeah 120€ here.
> There is also this kind of stuff
> Black & Decker
> Revolution'Air


that makes the datavac look cheap.. It would cost less to import it too.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horgen*
> 
> that makes the datavac look cheap.. It would cost less to import it too.


Well, I was just showing what exist over here, I'm sure you can find similar stuff in your country.


----------



## Horgen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Well, I was just showing what exist over here, I'm sure you can find similar stuff in your country.


In Norway? Nah, yet to find any.

Edit: what we have are the more powerfull stuff. 800w minimum with air tank and such.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Rebuild My Girl's Box and decided to put the old G2 1000W I used to have in a past life of Daedalic (it has G2 1300W now)
> 
> 
> Love these G2s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to re-use some of the extra cables from the EVGA cable I used for the 1300


Shilka good sir - can you do me a favor and add me to the G2 1000 owners' list as well? You have my 1300 down already; it would make me warm and fuzzy to be fully documented









Have a great weekend!


----------



## shilka

Done


----------



## Harrywang

Thinking of grabbing some sleeved cables for my 550w g2. Never bought sleeved cables before but from reading this thread the cablemod g2 basic is the best??? Or is there anything cheaper thats better?? Just want to fix up my cables management a bit.


----------



## ansha

Another review (although a short one) where 750 G2 has 12V ripple at almost 50mV. Units shipped in 2015 might be somehow different than the earlier models, with much worse ripple suppression.
Compared to earlier models they also have a single main capacitor (but a big 680uF one)...

Many people go for G2 for its great ripple suppression, if this has changed, it makes it a much less appealing product..


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> Another review (although a short one) where 750 G2 has 12V ripple at almost 50mV. Units shipped in 2015 might be somehow different than the earlier models, with much worse ripple suppression.
> Compared to earlier models they also have a single main capacitor (but a big 680uF one)...
> 
> Many people go for G2 for its great ripple suppression, if this has changed, it makes it a much less appealing product..


That so called review shows no proof or data whatsoever to back up their claims, and they are not saying if they are using the stock cables or aftermarket cables either.
Not going to believe any of it without some sort of data or proof to back it up.

They also claim that the G2 550 watt is 140mm which is flatout wrong.
its either a bad one off PSU or they are doing something wrong or using aftermarket cables.


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. They provide absolutely no information on their testing equipment, testing methods, or anything else. They just write a big wall of text with no paragraphing that's only about 3-4 paragraphs in length and then expect everyone to take their word for it. The reviewer is also just a software engineer. What does this person know about doing a proper review of a power supply? What testing equipment do they have? What is this person's testing method? What experience do they have? What do they know about power supplies? Have they ever studied a proper review of a power supply? Do they really know what they're doing?

I think you can see where I'm going with this. To me, that review is no better than a random customer review.


----------



## ansha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> That so called review shows no proof or data whatsoever to back up their claims, and they are not saying if they are using the stock cables or aftermarket cables either.
> Not going to believe any of it without some sort of data or proof to back it up.
> 
> They also claim that the G2 550 watt is 140mm which is flatout wrong.
> its either a bad one off PSU or they are doing something wrong or using aftermarket cables.


Why would we presume that they use aftermarket cables? It would be totally illogical to test the psu that way.
It is true that the "review" is amateurish at best, but it is also a strange coincidence that both reviews from 2015 show the same bad ripple suppression.
And it is a fact that the internal design changed lately, it could be that the main capacitor is not the only thing superflower changed..


----------



## Desolutional

No, it's worse than a random customer view, it gives the impression that it is a professional review. I'd not risk my equipment with a review like that before double checking there aren't any other sources to take info from.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> No, it's worse than a random customer view, it gives the impression that it is a professional review. I'd not risk my equipment with a review like that before double checking there aren't any other sources to take info from.


Exactly. Thank you, Desolutional.


----------



## ansha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> No, it's worse than a random customer view, it gives the impression that it is a professional review. I'd not risk my equipment with a review like that before double checking there aren't any other sources to take info from.


There is another source, and they test in a lab with pro equipement, but it looks like they got exactly the same numbers for ripple and efficiency, so the guy that wrote the small "review" probably stole the numbers from there.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> Why would we presume that they use aftermarket cables? It would be totally illogical to test the psu that way.
> It is true that the "review" is amateurish at best, but it is also a strange coincidence that both reviews from 2015 show the same bad ripple suppression.
> And it is a fact that the internal design changed lately, it could be that the main capacitor is not the only thing superflower changed..


All of these are from 2015 as well and they dont show those results

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=440
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-550-g2-power-supply,4244.html
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=429
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_650/

That so called review is a total waste of time and is wrong on so many levels.
Every single review i have seen shows that the Leadex / G2 has less then 15mv on all rails.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> There is another source, and they test in a lab with pro equipement, but it looks like they got exactly the same numbers for ripple and efficiency, so the guy that wrote the small "review" probably stole the numbers from there.


I didn't make it past the title because they tested 39 PSUs. Quality work takes time. How long did it take them to test all 39?

And, who is Hardware.info? I've never heard of them.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ansha*
> 
> There is another source, and they test in a lab with pro equipement, but it looks like they got exactly the same numbers for ripple and efficiency, so the guy that wrote the small "review" probably stole the numbers from there.


So what topnewreview did was not even their own test they just stole the broken results from someone else.
Just wow.

Sory but i am not going to trust those results unless someone more professional gets the same results.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> So what topnewreview did was not even their own test they just stole the broken results from someone else.
> Just wow.


So, we have one amateur reviewer who is getting their bad data stolen by other sites and these other sites are presenting this data as their own. lol

Meanwhile, we have half a dozen reviewers who are known worldwide to be the best in the business who are all showing extremely good performance from this PSU.


----------



## Desolutional

Sounds like a game of PSU Chinese Whispers. JonnyGURU is love, JonnyGURU is life.


----------



## shilka

When more then 3 professional reviewers all get almost the same results and some little known review site comes up with a much worse result who do you trust more?
Both Kitguru / Techpowerup and Jonnyguru and others gets almost the same results from all of their testing.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> When more then 3 professional reviewers all get almost the same results and some little known review site comes up with a much worse result who do you trust more?
> Both Kitguru / Techpowerup and Jonnyguru and others gets almost the same results from all of their testing.


And as we know, this is due to a few things:


Proper/appropriate PSU testing equipment for testing a PSU for a professional review
A proper testing environment
Knowledge of how to best test the PSU
Experience


----------



## shilka

We are not biased we are just not falling over ourselves over one anomaly.
If more proof and data shows up i would be happy to change my mind.

Untill then i am not believing anything.


----------



## Coydog

Much better cable management with this than the old HX650.


----------



## shilka

For some really strange reason i cant edit any of my threads anymore.
This means untill someone fixes whatever the hell is wrong i cant add any new members.

Sory about that Coydog.


----------



## Coydog

no worries.


----------



## Mega Man

Your not the only one I have seen say this, me thinks more shananagans with the new look, that no one wants


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your not the only one I have seen say this, me thinks more shananagans with the new look, that no one wants


I have reported the issue to a mod who said he would talk to enterprise.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea, the old ocn will never come back though. ....


----------



## shilka

Its been unlocked for me now.
Its a new system they have where everything will be locked after a year so on one can mass delete everything if they want to leave.

Just really annoying for those of us that have more then one thread that is more then a year old and we keep updated.
I cant keep track of every single one of my threads anymore but i do try and update when there is anything to add AND i have time for it.


----------



## Coydog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its been unlocked for me now.
> Its a new system they have where everything will be locked after a year so on one can mass delete everything if they want to leave.
> 
> Just really annoying for those of us that have more then one thread that is more then a year old and we keep updated.
> I cant keep track of every single one of my threads anymore but i do try and update when there is anything to add AND i have time for it.


Just so you know, you put me in the P2 club when I have a G2.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coydog*
> 
> Just so you know, you put me in the P2 club when I have a G2.


Fixed


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. They provide absolutely no information on their testing equipment, testing methods, or anything else. They just write a big wall of text with no paragraphing that's only about 3-4 paragraphs in length and then expect everyone to take their word for it. The reviewer is also just a software engineer. What does this person know about doing a proper review of a power supply? What testing equipment do they have? What is this person's testing method? What experience do they have? What do they know about power supplies? Have they ever studied a proper review of a power supply? Do they really know what they're doing?
> 
> I think you can see where I'm going with this. To me, that review is no better than a random customer review.


Consider posting this on that Blog's comment section. See what kind of response you get. If nothing else, let potential readers know that the review lacks relevant data to be taken seriously.


----------



## shilka

For some strange reason EVGA has moved the eco mode on/off switch from the back to the front of the PSU


I really dont like this as i would like to have it on the back.
If you own a case with a PSU cover you have to take the whole PC apart just to get to that switch so this is stupid!


----------



## TwoCables

People were accidentally turning off their PSU using the wrong switch. This leaves absolutely no room for confusion.

Fumbling around blind looking for the correct switch with nothing more than your fingers can be frustrating if you turn your PSU off when all you wanted to do was toggle ECO Mode on or off.


----------



## Desolutional

Wait, so ECO mode is a "live" switch to change during system operation? That in itself seems pretty stupid to accidentally turn off the rig, considering you really shouldn't be messing about with plug sockets or switches with electrical current flowing through them. If it was me, I'd actually go behind the rig and purposely doubly make sure the switch was the "ECO" switch *before* toggling anything.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Wait, so ECO mode is a "live" switch to change during system operation? That in itself seems pretty stupid to accidentally turn off the rig, considering you really shouldn't be messing about with plug sockets or switches with electrical current flowing through them. If it was me, I'd actually go behind the rig and purposely doubly make sure the switch was the "ECO" switch *before* toggling anything.


It's just a fan mode switch. It's harmless. The problem was, people were reaching behind to toggle it and accidentally turning off the PSU instead. lol So, EVGA moved it.


----------



## Farmer Boe

I gotta say, I'm loving how quiet my rig is now with the 650 G2 in there. I didn't expect a big difference compared to the old Silverstone PSU but it was quite noticeable. Under load the PSU fan isn't audible above the GPU fans. I don't expect to buy another PSU for a long time!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> People were accidentally turning off their PSU using the wrong switch. This leaves absolutely no room for confusion.
> 
> Fumbling around blind looking for the correct switch with nothing more than your fingers can be frustrating if you turn your PSU off when all you wanted to do was toggle ECO Mode on or off.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Desolutional*
> 
> Wait, so ECO mode is a "live" switch to change during system operation? That in itself seems pretty stupid to accidentally turn off the rig, considering you really shouldn't be messing about with plug sockets or switches with electrical current flowing through them. If it was me, I'd actually go behind the rig and purposely doubly make sure the switch was the "ECO" switch *before* toggling anything.
> 
> 
> 
> It's just a fan mode switch. It's harmless. The problem was, people were reaching behind to toggle it and accidentally turning off the PSU instead. lol So, EVGA moved it.
Click to expand...

Yay, stupid people ruined something else, now more proof of ebkac


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yay, stupid people ruined something else, now more proof of ebkac


They could be anywhere. They type just like regular people.


----------



## TwoCables

Stupid people?! No. Think about it: you reach behind your computer unable to see back there with the goal of toggling your ECO Mode switch. You feel two switches. Crap. Which one is power which one is ECO Mode? You take a guess, and you guessed wrong and now your computer is off. That's not a stupid person. A stupid person is someone who has no problem seeing the back of their computer and who can clearly see which switch is which yet they still accidentally turn off their computer *by flipping the switch while looking at the back of their PSU with plenty of light.*


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> They could be anywhere. They type just like regular people.


And its the same guy posting the same thing in all of those 6 threads.
I would go as far as calling it spam when its that many.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Stupid people?! No. Think about it: you reach behind your computer unable to see back there with the goal of toggling your ECO Mode switch. You feel two switches. Crap. Which one is power which one is ECO Mode? You take a guess, and you guessed wrong and now your computer is off. That's not a stupid person. A stupid person is someone who has no problem seeing the back of their computer and who can clearly see which switch is which yet they still accidentally turn off their computer *by flipping the switch while looking at the back of their PSU with plenty of light.*


I have fumbled around in the dark behind the PSU many times before and the on/off switch feel nothing like the eco switch.
So unless you have no feelings in your fingers its very hard to get the two switch mixed up.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> And its the same guy posting the same thing in all of those 6 threads.
> I would go as far as calling it spam when its that many.
> I have fumbled around in the dark behind the PSU many times before and the on/off switch feel nothing like the eco switch.
> So unless you have no feelings in your fingers its very hard to get the two switch mixed up.


I don't care that they feel different. When you can't see, you have to guess.

I'm sorry, but I just can't participate or support or get behind this thing of calling people stupid.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't care that they feel different. When you can't see, you have to guess.
> 
> I'm sorry, but I just can't participate or support or get behind this thing of calling people stupid.


I did not call anyone stupid i just said they the two switches dont feel anything like each other.
They dont even filp the same way the on/off bottom is up and down and the eco switch is left and right.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I did not call anyone stupid i just said they the two switches dont feel anything like each other.
> They dont even filp the same way the on/off bottom is up and down and the eco switch is left and right.


So? Again, when you're feeling around blindly, you can't know which one is which for sure. Ok, sure, *we* know because we know what a PSU's power switch feels like. However, when you don't know these things, you have to guess.


----------



## fyzzz

Just ordered a supernova g2 850w, should arrive this week. Probably way overkill for my rig, but i like to overclock and i want some headroom if i want to upgrade any of my components. I have 4690k at 4.8/1.31v and a 980 ti stock at the moment, but i will put a custom bios on it when i get my new psu. I have a rm 750 right now, which is acting weird and doesn't feel reliable anymore.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzzz*
> 
> which is acting weird and doesn't feel reliable anymore.


What do you mean?


----------



## fyzzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you mean?


Had it over a year now. Sometimes it is really cold and other days it can be stupidly hot. It couldn't handle a overclocked 290 in the summer either with 25c ambient. I want a good quality psu now which is not going to give me any issues. I also really like the eco on/off button on the evga psu's.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzzz*
> 
> Had it over a year now. Sometimes it is really cold and other days it can be stupidly hot. It couldn't handle a overclocked 290 in the summer either with 25c ambient. I want a good quality psu now which is not going to give me any issues. I also really like the eco on/off button on the evga psu's.


The fan's probably not working properly then.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> They could be anywhere. They type just like regular people.
> 
> 
> 
> And its the same guy posting the same thing in all of those 6 threads.
> I would go as far as calling it spam when its that many.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Stupid people?! No. Think about it: you reach behind your computer unable to see back there with the goal of toggling your ECO Mode switch. You feel two switches. Crap. Which one is power which one is ECO Mode? You take a guess, and you guessed wrong and now your computer is off. That's not a stupid person. A stupid person is someone who has no problem seeing the back of their computer and who can clearly see which switch is which yet they still accidentally turn off their computer *by flipping the switch while looking at the back of their PSU with plenty of light.*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have fumbled around in the dark behind the PSU many times before and the on/off switch feel nothing like the eco switch.
> So unless you have no feelings in your fingers its very hard to get the two switch mixed up.
Click to expand...

i agree
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> And its the same guy posting the same thing in all of those 6 threads.
> 
> I would go as far as calling it spam when its that many.
> 
> I have fumbled around in the dark behind the PSU many times before and the on/off switch feel nothing like the eco switch.
> 
> So unless you have no feelings in your fingers its very hard to get the two switch mixed up.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't care that they feel different. When you can't see, you have to guess.
> 
> I'm sorry, but I just can't participate or support or get behind this thing of calling people stupid.
Click to expand...

i will be the first to admit i throw out "stupid people" quickly, ( probably too quickly but i wont admit to that ! ), when you see what i see, even going so far as to tell them "dont do this, it will damage your ac and i will have to come back " yet week after week after week, same issue and they dont care, they took my giveacrap ---

now that said maybe not all people who do it are as above, but i learned something early on, if you dont know what it is, dont use/touch it ! so that is why i made the above statement -- and i never have done that and i will actively switch between the 2 modes if i bench, and using 2 psus it actually matters -


----------



## TwoCables

I'm not going to say someone is stupid unless they really are. By that point though, the person is likely aware that they're being stupid. We're only human. We can't be perfect *all* the time.

I see the same seemingly stupid questions asked every month here on OCN, but it's never by the same person. If it was the same person asking each time, then yeah after a time or two I'd have to say that they're stupid for continuing to ask. However, when the same dumb question is merely repeated by a new person each and every time, then I can't do any judging because it's a new person.

I'm also trying to avoid generating more negative karma by saying that someone is stupid when they really aren't (daily life is annoying enough as it is). Besides, who am I to judge someone else? I have a huge amount of flaws of my own.


----------



## vertical2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm not going to say someone is stupid unless they really are. By that point though, the person is likely aware that they're being stupid. We're only human. We can't be perfect *all* the time.
> 
> I see the same seemingly stupid questions asked every month here on OCN, but it's never by the same person. If it was the same person asking each time, then yeah after a time or two I'd have to say that they're stupid for continuing to ask. However, when the same dumb question is merely repeated by a new person each and every time, then I can't do any judging because it's a new person.
> 
> I'm also trying to avoid generating more negative karma by saying that someone is stupid when they really aren't (daily life is annoying enough as it is). Besides, who am I to judge someone else? I have a huge amount of flaws of my own.


I agree.

This dialogue reminds me of when I saw Whoopi Goldberg years ago doing a solo performance at a local university. In her opening (before the jokes, etc.), she made it clear that she absolutely abhors the word "stupid"...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vertical2*
> 
> I agree.
> 
> This dialogue reminds me of when I saw Whoopi Goldberg years ago doing a solo performance at a local university. In her opening (before the jokes, etc.), she made it clear that she absolutely abhors the word "stupid"...


Wow. Exactly. You got right to the heart of what I was trying to say (but I didn't really want to preach too much).


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Wow. Exactly. You got right to the heart of what I was trying to say (but I didn't really want to preach too much).


By saying you didn't want to preach too much, I'd like to clarify you are aware people are able to look at your post history?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> By saying you didn't want to preach too much, I'd like to clarify you are aware people are able to look at your post history?


Do you seriously think that you're telling me something that I don't already know? I hope not.


----------



## Mega Man

While I currently disagree with you on this topic, I for one am glad you are here and do help out

without guys like you and Shilka I would never be where I an at with my pc understanding, I recently had a conversation in the freenas forums, they blindly recommended a psu, not because it was worth while, but because allot of people use it, long term. I then agreed it was a good choice, and recommended several others evga g2, gs and SuperFlower and showed places where people could research psus, then I was told ( more or less ) people could not be trusted to research their own psus... and those psus are questionable.

I also tried to show them how to tell good psus and good psu reviews
But was basically told "nope"


----------



## Silent Scone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Do you seriously think that you're telling me something that I don't already know? I hope not.


lol I'd like to hope not. You seem to come across as you would in real life, that being someone waiting in a queue somewhere becoming disgruntled at trivial things.

"Are you serious right now?!" Perhaps that's a side effect of spending too much time on here


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> While I currently disagree with you on this topic, I for one am glad you are here and do help out
> 
> without guys like you and Shilka I would never be where I an at with my pc understanding, I recently had a conversation in the freenas forums, they blindly recommended a psu, not because it was worth while, but because allot of people use it, long term. I then agreed it was a good choice, and recommended several others evga g2, gs and SuperFlower and showed places where people could research psus, then I was told ( more or less ) people could not be trusted to research their own psus... and those psus are questionable.
> 
> I also tried to show them how to tell good psus and good psu reviews
> But was basically told "nope"


Yeah, I learned to just stay put on OCN. lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silent Scone*
> 
> lol I'd like to hope not. You seem to come across as you would in real life, that being someone waiting in a queue somewhere becoming disgruntled at trivial things.
> 
> "Are you serious right now?!" Perhaps that's a side effect of spending too much time on here


It's called Asperger's Syndrome. I sometimes don't know when someone is joking. I can't apologize for it. It's a very real disability.


----------



## Methodical

I just received my EVGA 1200 P2 and I love the look of this PSU - Black is my favorite color. I also, love the fact that EVGA included the PSU testing adaptor and those velcro straps. It's little things like this that can take a product over the top when compared to others - well that and if it function as it's supposed to. Reminds me when I got my Caselab case where they included actual tools needed to put the case together. I don't mind the few extra $ as long as I don't have to search for a special tool.

Shilka, the cables do reach the CPU, so they are long enough.


----------



## Cyb3r

yeah i know that feeling twocables (adhd + other minor things going wrong in my brain at times XD) btw is the editing for the toppost working again?

I need to retake a picture off my Supernova g2 picture got lost somehow grmbl


----------



## shilka

The 850 and 1000 watt T2 reviews have been added to the OP.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Well shucks never knew this was here







. I will edit this with a pic in a bit







.


----------



## Rahldrac

Sooo, I have a very noobish question.
I have an EVGA G2 1000w. And it only has two slots for molex cables. The problem is that I need more than 6 molex connections (Pumps, fans, leds osv). So is it possible to use the molex cables in the holes marked for sata? They fit in there, but I guess sata has more power going to them?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Sooo, I have a very noobish question.
> I have an EVGA G2 1000w. And it only has two slots for molex cables. The problem is that I need more than 6 molex connections (Pumps, fans, leds osv). So is it possible to use the molex cables in the holes marked for sata? They fit in there, but I guess sata has more power going to them?


Thery should fit but you can always use molex to SATA adators if you dont have enough molex.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Well forgot to edit for so long that I figured I would just make a new post now lol, My rig is torn down atm so perfect time I can take a good pic







.


----------



## shilka

Added to the owners list.
I am thinking about dropping my idea of getting a 750 watt T2 and just getting another G2 as its half the price of the T2 here where i live.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Sooo, I have a very noobish question.
> I have an EVGA G2 1000w. And it only has two slots for molex cables. The problem is that I need more than 6 molex connections (Pumps, fans, leds osv). So is it possible to use the molex cables in the holes marked for sata? They fit in there, but I guess sata has more power going to them?


shouldnt be an issue ill check in a min

more power no , fat 4 pin ( molex isnt a connector, it is a company, and the 4 pin connector you refer to molex didnt invent, a company called amp did, its real name is a 4 pin MateNLok connector )
Source
Quote:


> What is confusing, however, are the peripheral cable connectors. They are all compatible with one another, but EVGA has elected to label four of them as SATA only. I don't know what the point of this is, if the connectors are all interchangeable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added to the owners list.
> I am thinking about dropping my idea of getting a 750 watt T2 and just getting another G2 as its half the price of the T2 here where i live.


that would be what i would do


----------



## Kimir

Yeah Titanium is overpriced as it is now. Tbh, all EVGA product got a huge jump in price here in Europe... Not only the graphic cards, but the PSU as well.


----------



## Mega Man

so go with super flower leadex !


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so go with super flower leadex !


The Leadex is much cheaper here.


----------



## fyzzz

Well, the evga psu's where i live (Europe) has come down in price recently. They are now cheaper than their leadex counterparts. I got my my 850 g2 for 145€ and it was at 160€ just a few days before.


----------



## Kimir

Just checked the shops that used to carry Superflower over here, they don't anymore, wth!
Anyway I'm set on powersupply for the time being, still haven't build the rig with that 650P2 I got not long ago (missing the case and all the watercooling parts, except the GPU block).


----------



## CannedBullets

Just bought some black Cablemod E-Series sleeved cables for the EVGA SuperNova P2 750W I'm getting as an upgrade. Can't wait till the end of the month to put every thing together.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Okay guys I have a kinda strange power supply question I figured with shilka here this is a good place to ask. So I am going to get a cable set for my G2 as its going in my bench, I am curious about those dual PCI cables. If i can find some that are dual 6+2 pins is there a max amount of power they can support?

In the past I have tried to shy away from them, as I overclock my cards alot. On the this bench I will be overclocking even more with LN2, and currently be doing so with 3 290s pulling over 400ws a piece (PT3 Bios and LN2 they're going to pull alot of power).

Now my question is are those things safe with that much power going through them? I usually dont trust them plus I dont like the look of them but on a bench setup they would be easier to deal with for swapping them quickly. So any issues with those cables or the EVGA using only 1 plug for PCI for both the PCI connections?


----------



## Plagasx

Hey Guys, new G2 owner here!

I have this weird tinkering sound happening on my new build. Everything is brand new. Has anyone ever had this? It happens whenever I plug it in and flick the back switch on. Takes about a minute to go away after I switch it off and unplug it...






I'm scared to even turn on my PC while it's making that sound. This is my first time using it.

Any idea??


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plagasx*
> 
> Hey Guys, new G2 owner here!
> 
> I have this weird tinkering sound happening on my new build. Everything is brand new. Has anyone ever had this? It happens whenever I plug it in and flick the back switch on. Takes about a minute to go away after I switch it off and unplug it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm scared to even turn on my PC while it's making that sound. This is my first time using it.
> 
> Any idea??


That sounds like a fan issue to me, is the fan spinning can you see what its doing when its making that noise.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay guys I have a kinda strange power supply question I figured with shilka here this is a good place to ask. So I am going to get a cable set for my G2 as its going in my bench, I am curious about those dual PCI cables. If i can find some that are dual 6+2 pins is there a max amount of power they can support?
> 
> In the past I have tried to shy away from them, as I overclock my cards alot. On the this bench I will be overclocking even more with LN2, and currently be doing so with 3 290s pulling over 400ws a piece (PT3 Bios and LN2 they're going to pull alot of power).
> 
> Now my question is are those things safe with that much power going through them? I usually dont trust them plus I dont like the look of them but on a bench setup they would be easier to deal with for swapping them quickly. So any issues with those cables or the EVGA using only 1 plug for PCI for both the PCI connections?


short answer:
stick with a cable for each connection.

long answer:
each of the three 18AWG wires can handle 10amps of load. so 3*10amps*12v=360 watts for both PCI-E connections on the card. benching on LN2 will exceed that (including the 75watts through the slot for 415 watts).
also the terminal (what is crimped on to the wire itself) is usually rated for more amperage BUT connecting to the pin on the PSU must be firm. if its "loose" then heat will build up and melt the plastic. this happened to one user on the 980TI owners thread with a season-X 1250.

safety > convenience


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> short answer:
> stick with a cable for each connection.
> 
> long answer:
> each of the three 18AWG wires can handle 10amps of load. so 3*10amps*12v=360 watts for both PCI-E connections on the card. benching on LN2 will exceed that (including the 75watts through the slot for 415 watts).
> also the terminal (what is crimped on to the wire itself) is usually rated for more amperage BUT connecting to the pin on the PSU must be firm. if its "loose" then heat will build up and melt the plastic. this happened to one user on the 980TI owners thread with a season-X 1250.
> 
> safety > convenience


Ya I was afraid you might say that, that was what I thought but just wanted to be sure. Hmm about the connectors should I then pull the connectors? And solder them to the pins to ensure that doesn't happen sounds like that might be a good idea.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya I was afraid you might say that, that was what I thought but just wanted to be sure. Hmm about the connectors should I then pull the connectors? And solder them to the pins to ensure that doesn't happen sounds like that might be a good idea.


i really wouldn't recommend that for several reasons:

the warranty would be lost - its never expected to need one but nice to have if something unexpectedly fails down the line.

you may unknowingly compromise connections or materials.

you could hurt yourself if you don't discharge the unit. (though i am sure you're smart enough







)

IF you are concerned about the connection; you can remove the terminal as if you're resleeving the cable (takes a small flat screwdriver). then use insulated needlenose (even though you made sure the unit was discharged) and push the terminal on the VGA connection pin on the PSU. if it loose, you can use the needle nose to crimp the sleeve tighter. (you'll see the split down the terminal).

but this really isn't necessary if you're not pushing the load towards 100% of it's rated specs.









just look at the several tens of thousands of modular PSU's that don't have an issue under normal and some extreme use.


----------



## spyshagg

Kind of worried about the "tested up to 2000 on/off cycles".

2000 cycles are spent in a eye blink compared to the lifetime of the rest of the computer.

If you use your computer at lunch time and evening, that's 2 cycles per day. Come the weekends where you cycle between the computer and TV/other stuff 4/5 times a day, plus the forced shutdowns (hello overclocking!), and that amounts to well over 1000 cycles per year.

I have the 1200w superflower btw


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Kind of worried about the "tested up to 2000 on/off cycles".
> 
> 2000 cycles are spent in a eye blink compared to the lifetime of the rest of the computer.
> 
> If you use your computer at lunch time and evening, that's 2 cycles per day. Come the weekends where you cycle between the computer and TV/other stuff 4/5 times a day, plus the forced shutdowns (hello overclocking!), and that amounts to well over 1000 cycles per year.
> 
> I have the 1200w superflower btw


They're probably talking about using the on/off switch. Besides, it's *tested* up to 2,000, but that doesn't mean it can't last for millions of on/off cycles. It just means, that's what they tested.


----------



## spyshagg

Well on/off is the power cycle, correct? shutdown computer + turn on computer = 1 cycle if I understood correctly. There is a hard "click" everytime the psu turns off or on

But its true what you say. I can do more for sure. It better last as much as my still alive and well TX750 from corsair.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Well on/off is the power cycle, correct? shutdown computer + turn on computer = 1 cycle if I understood correctly. There is a hard "click" everytime the psu turns off or on
> 
> But its true what you say. I can do more for sure. It better last as much as my still alive and well TX750 from corsair.


That sound is a relay switch. It's supposed to do that.

Do you want them to test it for 500,000 on/off cycles? I doubt they have enough time or resources to test for more than a couple thousand. You're talking about a ridiculously high-end PSU here. Relax. I have the original HX650 and I've had it since December 12th 2009 and I turn my computer off every single day and yet it still works just fine. Just because they only tested it for 2,000, it doesn't mean that it will die soon after that. Good grief.


----------



## spyshagg

I know its supposed to do that. I meant that it identifies an "cycle", relax man

What are they talking about in the first place? 2000 power cycles tested on each and every psu they sell? surely not.

They probably test random units from the production line up to 2000 cycles. But they also surely tested the prototypes to failure before selling the product and know the real expected endurance of the product.

Out of the two tests they surely made, they opted to advertise the bleak "up to 2000 cycles tested" which according to simple math equates to about 3 years of average use, which is very little for a state of the art component.

Its just a psu. Its not the end of the world. But still, if you count your pennies the choice to advertise that number is concerning.


----------



## TwoCables

Damn dude, you need to relax because you're talking about a PSU that's among the best of the best. I wouldn't be surprised if it easily lives longer than 10 years. Stop focusing on this "2,000 cycles" thing and just enjoy your PSU. It's not going to die shortly after 2,000 cycles!


----------



## spyshagg

eheh I know man







Its just a bit silly to advertise the 2000 number without context on when it was done in the product development. It better last 10.000 cycles for a 300€ PSU. But hey, if they start dying after 2 years, they will tell us: "as advertised!"


----------



## TwoCables

As a manufacturer, you don't want to guarantee too much. Besides, that's not an indication of how long it will last.


----------



## spyshagg

the number does match up pretty well with the obligatory EU 2 year warranty. My nose is sensing something but its just probably because of bad past experiences.

cheers


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, like I said, that's a stupidly high-end PSU. lol You're worrying about nothing. It makes your TX750 look like a cheap toy.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> I know its supposed to do that. I meant that it identifies an "cycle", relax man
> 
> What are they talking about in the first place? 2000 power cycles tested on each and every psu they sell? surely not.
> 
> They probably test random units from the production line up to 2000 cycles. But they also surely tested the prototypes to failure before selling the product and know the real expected endurance of the product.
> 
> Out of the two tests they surely made, they opted to advertise the bleak "up to 2000 cycles tested" which according to simple math equates to about 3 years of average use, which is very little for a state of the art component.
> 
> Its just a psu. Its not the end of the world. But still, if you count your pennies the choice to advertise that number is concerning.


I dont know about the superflower leadex but my evga (same psu right??) has a 10 year warranty so I dont think it will only last 3 then quit if it does thats fine they can replace it 3 times









But seriously I think that goes to show that it will last a long long time, a 10 year warranty in anything in PCs is not common at all







.


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I dont know about the superflower leadex but my evga (same psu right??) has a 10 year warranty so I dont think it will only last 3 then quit if it does thats fine they can replace it 3 times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously I think that goes to show that it will last a long long time, a 10 year warranty in anything in PCs is not common at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I understand evga increases the warranty over superflower (10 vs 2 years). I expect them so be about the same, but, I let you know in two years time







(or 10!)


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> I understand evga increases the warranty over superflower (10 vs 2 years). I expect them so be about the same, but, I let you know in two years time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (or 10!)


Well I didn't think the SF had a 10 year warranty I am just saying pretty much same PSU and if EVGA felt comfortable to slap a 10 year on it I think you will be okay







.


----------



## xTesla1856

Late to the party (as usual







) but count me in, if I can still join the club:



EVGA Supernova 1000P2, powers the overclocked little beast in the background just perfectly for about 6 months now. For me, EVGA is the only PSU brand I'll ever buy from now on.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> i really wouldn't recommend that for several reasons:
> 
> the warranty would be lost - its never expected to need one but nice to have if something unexpectedly fails down the line.
> 
> you may unknowingly compromise connections or materials.
> 
> you could hurt yourself if you don't discharge the unit. (though i am sure you're smart enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> IF you are concerned about the connection; you can remove the terminal as if you're resleeving the cable (takes a small flat screwdriver). then use insulated needlenose (even though you made sure the unit was discharged) and push the terminal on the VGA connection pin on the PSU. if it loose, you can use the needle nose to crimp the sleeve tighter. (you'll see the split down the terminal).
> 
> but this really isn't necessary if you're not pushing the load towards 100% of it's rated specs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just look at the several tens of thousands of modular PSU's that don't have an issue under normal and some extreme use.


I completely missed this sorry







. I misunderstood what you were saying, I thought you meant on the GPU the PCI E cable where that is crimped.

The wires on the PSU side of the connection are not crimped on they are soldered to a board at least in my 1600 they are. The PCI cable is the only place where they are crimped So I would leave them crimped, I would lay solder over that.

I am actually going to do that on my new idea, my 1600w is still a part of the bench but the bench is well a bench. From all that I have seen by the professional OCers, they not only dont use the PSU in the bench itself but they use a bunch of them. I am going to go with this same idea for other reasons then just that.

So now the 1600w will only be used on water, as the bench is going on a permanent rack that will house an epic loop along with all the LN2 supply's and the bench ect. So new plan on this rack I will mount 5 Evga G2s, 1 1000w (for the board the CPU harddrives ect.) and 4 750 or 850ws, so each GPU will have its own power supply







. I will have to make custom cables for these and am working on a way to make them with Inline multi meters that also attach so I can get power readings at all times







Should be much better and safer, no water scares from the LN2 as the PSUs will be somewhere else.

This actually leads to a question for you, I looked for a device like I need and no avail so I have to make one. I know where to get small LCD screen based multimeter that shows amps/watts/voltage that are made to go inline. However as you said the voltage is split across the 3 wires, how could I measure the sum of all 3 in that case? without power going among each other, or would it split across the 3 lines evenly even if they are bridged.


----------



## looniam

maybe my reading comprehension is lacking since i woke up at midnite and couldn't get back to sleep BUT:

it's not volts but amperage that is the sum. the voltage stays consistent (12v). assuming the resistance is the same on the 3 wires; then the power current (amps) would be split evenly for total wattage (amp*volts).

a clamp meter would be able to read all three.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Late to the party (as usual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but count me in, if I can still join the club:
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA Supernova 1000P2, powers the overclocked little beast in the background just perfectly for about 6 months now. For me, EVGA is the only PSU brand I'll ever buy from now on.


God damm it my abilty to edit has been removed again!
Sory xTesla1856 but cant add you or anyone else right now.

Stupid system they have put in place.
Going to have to talk to enterprise again.


----------



## TwoCables

Ask E for permanent editing rights. If you don't ask for permanent rights, then he will assume you want it to be temporary.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ask E for permanent editing rights. If you don't ask for permanent rights, then he will assume you want it to be temporary.


Pretty sure i made it clear i wanted it permanent but maybe he misunderstood?
Anyway i am too busy to ask tonight so it will have to be tomorrow.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> maybe my reading comprehension is lacking since i woke up at midnite and couldn't get back to sleep BUT:
> 
> it's not volts but amperage that is the sum. the voltage stays consistent (12v). assuming the resistance is the same on the 3 wires; then the power current (amps) would be split evenly for total wattage (amp*volts).
> 
> a clamp meter would be able to read all three.


I might have said Volts but ya I meant amps









The problem with those is kinda 3 fold. They are hard to find for DC, and hard to find small. They are hard to find accurate, and I would need to jimmy it to the LCD multi meter, the 3d and most imporant is the ones that fill all those checks are hundreds of dollars







.

I could (and most likely will have to lol) Use Corsair I series psus to do this for much cheaper than that option.

Unless I can rig a way to use a multi meter like this one. http://www.amazon.com/6-5-100V-Display-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_cp_469_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NHQHSSHH9T57PABHDNA


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Pretty sure i made it clear i wanted it permanent but maybe he misunderstood?
> Anyway i am too busy to ask tonight so it will have to be tomorrow.


You have to admit that you tend to expect people to read your mind.


----------



## looniam

(no offence)


----------



## TwoCables

It's not funny, looniam. I'm trying to help my friend.


----------



## Plagasx

quote name="Plagasx" url="/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club/2310#post_24882497"]Hey Guys, new G2 owner here!

I have this weird tinkering sound happening on my new build. Everything is brand new. Has anyone ever had this? It happens whenever I plug it in and flick the back switch on. Takes about a minute to go away after I switch it off and unplug it...






I'm scared to even turn on my PC while it's making that sound. This is my first time using it.

Any idea??[/quote]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That sounds like a fan issue to me, is the fan spinning can you see what its doing when its making that noise.


Okay, so I just took out the PSU from my system and I tested it using the test connector to see if the fan runs..

It's running fine. Which means the PSU is fine right? Could having wrong cables connected to the PSU cause the problem??


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plagasx*
> 
> Okay, so I just took out the PSU from my system and I tested it using the test connector to see if the fan runs..
> 
> It's running fine. Which means the PSU is fine right? Could having wrong cables connected to the PSU cause the problem??


Does the psu make that noise in the case but not out of the case? It is most likely there is some cable in your case that is slipping through the fan grill and when it hits it makes that noise. That would be my guess but I am not an expert, though I have had similar issues with rad fans hitting wires.

In your case it doesnt look like its pointed in a way a wire could hit it but maybe a fan filter or something? Try hooking up the wires but it keep it out of the case and try it.

It could very well not even be the power supply it could just sound like it. If its not making it with the tester and you think its maybe cables then do above but only use the 24 pin and the 8 pin, then add more 1 by 1 until it makes the sound. Also pay attention when you do that where the sound comes from, and try with the PSU with it upside as it is in the case see if it ticks. I think its a fan issue and that could only happen when its upside down.


----------



## Plagasx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plagasx*
> 
> Hey Guys, new G2 owner here!
> 
> I have this weird tinkering sound happening on my new build. Everything is brand new. Has anyone ever had this? It happens whenever I plug it in and flick the back switch on. Takes about a minute to go away after I switch it off and unplug it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm scared to even turn on my PC while it's making that sound. This is my first time using it.
> 
> Any idea??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That sounds like a fan issue to me, is the fan spinning can you see what its doing when its making that noise.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Does the psu make that noise in the case but not out of the case? It is most likely there is some cable in your case that is slipping through the fan grill and when it hits it makes that noise. That would be my guess but I am not an expert, though I have had similar issues with rad fans hitting wires.
> 
> In your case it doesnt look like its pointed in a way a wire could hit it but maybe a fan filter or something? Try hooking up the wires but it keep it out of the case and try it.
> 
> It could very well not even be the power supply it could just sound like it. If its not making it with the tester and you think its maybe cables then do above but only use the 24 pin and the 8 pin, then add more 1 by 1 until it makes the sound. Also pay attention when you do that where the sound comes from, and try with the PSU with it upside as it is in the case see if it ticks. I think its a fan issue and that could only happen when its upside down.


So it's looking like it's the Cablemod sleeved cables I bought.

The pins don't match up on the 24 pin.. Left side is EVGA cable that came with PSU and right side is the Cablemod cable.. The PSU runs fine when connected using the tester on the EVGA cable.


----------



## shilka

If the pins dont match up then its a huge mistake and you should talk to CableMod about that.


----------



## Mega Man

it may be big, it may be nothing, some wires are called sense wires and some are not needed -- you would need to test them with a multimeter to verify, but it may not be your issue and you may want to rma it ( meaning it is a pain in the bum ! and you may not want to do it )


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I just got an email from CableMod and it seems like that the pin layout while not the same as the stock cables but DO work.
> 
> What has happen is EVGA has changed the pin layout on their own sleeved cables for the G2/P2/T2 and CableMod use the same pin layout as the EVGA sleeved cables which means both are not the same as the stock cables but do work.
> 
> So yes the layout is not the same as the stock cables but CableMod says they do work.
> So everyone calm down its a false alarm.
> 
> Edit: anyone have the EVGA sleeved cables so we can compare the 3?
> 
> Cpoy of the email from CableMod
> 
> *Howdy,
> 
> Let me explain it to you - this is no problem and totally normal because our cable kits are based on the sleeved cable kit of EVGA (http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CK-1300-B9) - the pin out there is exactly the same with ours and also different compared to the stock cables. Both versions are fully functional - we sell thousands of kits a month and would know if there would be issues with it. J
> 
> Thanks for bringing this to attention though and communicating with me!*


It seems all is fine.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> It seems all is fine.


I still think he has a cable issue. According to Silka's message from CableMod, the change affects only 1 pin. He has a 2 pin discrepancy, while ours is 1 pin, therefore, I think he truly has a cable issue. Send a photo to CableMod and let them sort it out. I can't test mine nor do I have an EVGA cable to confirm this. Note: Silka's cable looks just like mine below - CableMod top, EVGA stock cable bottom.


----------



## shilka

I am aware that he has a problem with his set as his 8 pin dont fit either.
As for everyone else its a false alarm and while the pin layout dont match they still work fine.

If the pin layout would not work we would have heard about it by now as CableMod cables have been out for a while and the EVGA cables even longer.

On another note i got my editing rights back so i can add new members again.


----------



## benjamen50

I got a full set of EVGA Supernova P2 1200W PSU cables and Cablemod PSU cables for EVGA Supernova P2 1200W. Computer is running all fine here.

A minor problem with the Cablemod cables I have is that the threading (The material they put over the wire has seemed to come loose) I don't know how to explain it but it's not connecting to the end of the 8-Pin PCI-E plastic plug (Cable still works fine of course, just looks a bit ugly).

I don't know why back in the day I believed that multi-railed PSU's were always better than single-railed PSU's.

Will post pictures of the cable in a second.


----------



## Kimir

You mean the sleeving came off.


----------



## benjamen50

Yeah..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> I got a full set of EVGA Supernova P2 1200W PSU cables and Cablemod PSU cables for EVGA Supernova P2 1200W. Computer is running all fine here.
> 
> A minor problem with the Cablemod cables I have is that the threading (The material they put over the wire has seemed to come loose) I don't know how to explain it but it's not connecting to the end of the 8-Pin PCI-E plastic plug (Cable still works fine of course, just looks a bit ugly).
> 
> I don't know why back in the day I believed that multi-railed PSU's were always better than single-railed PSU's.
> 
> Will post pictures of the cable in a second.


Multirailed units are still better in general, especially if the PSU maker knows what they are doing as well as the customer knowing how to work with it.


----------



## TwoCables

So are you asking how to fix the custom sleeving job that they did? I wouldn't know how, but I'm just asking before we get off topic.


----------



## benjamen50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So are you asking how to fix the custom sleeving job that they did? I wouldn't know how, but I'm just asking before we get off topic.


Yes, I'm kinda scared that I might damage the cable somehow.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> Yes, I'm kinda scared that I might damage the cable somehow.


Hmm. I'm thinking that as long as it's connected securely, it should be safe.


----------



## Kimir

If you have the tool, you could try to remove the pin from the connector and try to melt the sleeving back in place. Or you use the manufacturer warranty, cause... unless you forced on the cable, it shouldn't come off easily.


----------



## jincuteguy

Hi guys, so Im always wondering about this might as well asking it here. So I see a lot of PSU now aday have Modular cables.
My question is can't you use these Modular cables of a specific PSU for another PSU? (as long as the Connectors are the same of course).

For example, let say the Corsair AX1200i 24pin cables, can you use it for the Seasonic Snow Silent PSU? both are Modular and have the same connectors. The only difference I can think of is the Length. Or am I missing something here? Any info would be appreciated, thx.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *benjamen50*
> 
> I got a full set of EVGA Supernova P2 1200W PSU cables and Cablemod PSU cables for EVGA Supernova P2 1200W. Computer is running all fine here.
> 
> A minor problem with the Cablemod cables I have is that the threading (The material they put over the wire has seemed to come loose) I don't know how to explain it but it's not connecting to the end of the 8-Pin PCI-E plastic plug (Cable still works fine of course, just looks a bit ugly).
> 
> I don't know why back in the day I believed that multi-railed PSU's were always better than single-railed PSU's.
> 
> Will post pictures of the cable in a second.
> 
> 
> 
> Multirailed units are still better in general, especially if the PSU maker knows what they are doing as well as the customer knowing how to work with it.
Click to expand...

i would argue with you on that, there are pluses and negatives to both, neither are better or worse, however i feel the quote " right tool for the right job " would fit here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If you have the tool, you could try to remove the pin from the connector and try to melt the sleeving back in place. Or you use the manufacturer warranty, cause... unless you forced on the cable, it should come off easily.


very very easy to do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi guys, so Im always wondering about this might as well asking it here. So I see a lot of PSU now aday have Modular cables.
> My question is can't you use these Modular cables of a specific PSU for another PSU? (as long as the Connectors are the same of course).
> 
> For example, let say the Corsair AX1200i 24pin cables, can you use it for the Seasonic Snow Silent PSU? both are Modular and have the same connectors. The only difference I can think of is the Length. Or am I missing something here? Any info would be appreciated, thx.


depends there have been one or two you can, but generally is not NOT recommended !

you can repin the old cables properly to the new psus however ( ** with exception fo the 24 pin as that one may be completely different ( sense wires ect ) in most cases.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would argue with you on that, there are pluses and negatives to both, neither are better or worse, however i feel the quote " right tool for the right job " would fit here
> very very easy to do


It's really easy to pull the pins from the Connector? Like the 24pin cable?


----------



## Mega Man

i was not replying to you i was talking about if he needed to fix the sleeve that was lose, however i did reply to you in an edit ( see my above post )

you can repin them. but i would STRONGLY advise against it unless you know what you are doing, you can damage and lose everything if you do it wrong,

that said it can be very rewarding if you do it properly, only you can tell you if you are comfortable and or ready to do it.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would argue with you on that, there are pluses and negatives to both, neither are better or worse, however i feel the quote " right tool for the right job " would fit here
> very very easy to do
> depends there have been one or two you can, but generally is not NOT recommended !
> 
> you can repin the old cables properly to the new psus however ( ** with exception fo the 24 pin as that one may be completely different ( sense wires ect ) in most cases.


I mean aren't Modular cables are like "extension" cables? I see people use "extension" cable for the 24pin motherboard cable for many diff PSU. Isn't that the same thing as using the 24pin cable itself for a different psu? I don't see why it's not recommended?


----------



## Mega Man

the ends of the wires that go into your motherboard are all standardized

the ends that go into psus are not. so to answer your question, no they are not

they can and do have different connectors and pinouts ( this is the important one )

pinouts are where they put different things ( 3.3v 5v. ect, different rails ( if applicable ) )

every psu manufacture does not make the same unit ! that said not all are different.

psus can have things like "sense" wires esp on the 24 pin which another manufacture may not

i hope that helps, also see these pics



again you can change the connectors ( pins ) and or make new wires as needed if you feel comfortable, then do it, but know the risks you are taking if you do this !!


----------



## shilka

Pin layouts are almost never the same from one PSU to another so no you cant use one cable from one PSU on another PSU.
Even if it fits if the pin layout is not the same the PSU will either refuse to work or worse it will fry.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the ends of the wires that go into your motherboard are all standardized
> 
> the ends that go into psus are not. so to answer your question, no they are not
> 
> they can and do have different connectors and pinouts ( this is the important one )
> 
> pinouts are where they put different things ( 3.3v 5v. ect, different rails ( if applicable ) )
> 
> every psu manufacture does not make the same unit ! that said not all are different.
> 
> psus can have things like "sense" wires esp on the 24 pin which another manufacture may not
> 
> i hope that helps, also see these pics
> 
> 
> 
> again you can change the connectors ( pins ) and or make new wires as needed if you feel comfortable, then do it, but know the risks you are taking if you do this !!


Thx for the info man, now that clear everything up for me









So what do you think about Ensources ( custom sleeved cable service) Some people recommend this guy service but I never bought any custom sleeved cables from him.
So did anyone else use Ensource service before can share experience? And do you think I should trust the guy (Ensources) to do the pinouts for a specific PSU cables? (not extension)


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Pin layouts are almost never the same from one PSU to another so no you cant use one cable from one PSU on another PSU.
> Even if it fits if the pin layout is not the same the PSU will either refuse to work or worse it will fry.


Yea now I know why custom sleeved cable service have specific PSU list available.

Also, I heard that SuperFlower Leadex psu are really good, but I just can't find them anywhere that sell them in the US? I want the White color one but have no idea where I can buy them?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea now I know why custom sleeved cable service have specific PSU list available.
> 
> Also, I heard that SuperFlower Leadex psu are really good, but I just can't find them anywhere that sell them in the US? I want the White color one but have no idea where I can buy them?


In the world of PSUs, it's not really about brand names, but rather it's about which specific models are good and which ones aren't. Of course, there's a whole spectrum from "avoid at all costs" to "extremely awesome best of the best of the best". Still, the quality of a PSU can't be judged by its brand name.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> In the world of PSUs, it's not really about brand names, but rather it's about which specific models are good and which ones aren't. Of course, there's a whole spectrum from "avoid at all costs" to "extremely awesome best of the best of the best". Still, the quality of a PSU can't be judged by its brand name.


Im talking about the specific Super Flower Leadex 1000w White model.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Im talking about the specific Super Flower Leadex 1000w White model.


Oh you edited your post right before I clicked Quote. It was different before.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh you edited your post right before I clicked Quote. It was different before.


Yea sorry







But do you know where I can order the Super Flower Leadex 1000w White psu? I can't find it anywhere in the US. If so, what country do I need to look at to get one of them? thx

Otherwise, I might have to go with the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But do you know where I can order the Super Flower Leadex 1000w White psu? I can't find it anywhere in the US. If so, what country do I need to look at to get one of them? thx
> 
> Otherwise, I might have to go with the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w


No, but the Snow Silent would probably be an extremely fantastic PSU.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, but the Snow Silent would probably be an extremely fantastic PSU.


Yea that white Seasonic Snow silent is amazing.

Im also looking to get some Custom Sleeved cables for it too.
I was looking at Ensource.net, do u ever heard of it? There's a guy that do custom sleeved cables service for different PSU. Not sure if I should trust it? Unless you know a different service that do custom sleeved cables


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea that white Seasonic Snow silent is amazing.
> 
> Im also looking to get some Custom Sleeved cables for it too.
> I was looking at Ensource.net, do u ever heard of it? There's a guy that do custom sleeved cables service for different PSU. Not sure if I should trust it? Unless you know a different service that do custom sleeved cables


I don't know anything when it comes to sleeving.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the ends of the wires that go into your motherboard are all standardized
> 
> the ends that go into psus are not. so to answer your question, no they are not
> 
> they can and do have different connectors and pinouts ( this is the important one )
> 
> pinouts are where they put different things ( 3.3v 5v. ect, different rails ( if applicable ) )
> 
> every psu manufacture does not make the same unit ! that said not all are different.
> 
> psus can have things like "sense" wires esp on the 24 pin which another manufacture may not
> 
> i hope that helps, also see these pics
> again you can change the connectors ( pins ) and or make new wires as needed if you feel comfortable, then do it, but know the risks you are taking if you do this !!
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for the info man, now that clear everything up for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what do you think about Ensources ( custom sleeved cable service) Some people recommend this guy service but I never bought any custom sleeved cables from him.
> So did anyone else use Ensource service before can share experience? And do you think I should trust the guy (Ensources) to do the pinouts for a specific PSU cables? (not extension)
Click to expand...

no idea never heard of him sorry :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Pin layouts are almost never the same from one PSU to another so no you cant use one cable from one PSU on another PSU.
> Even if it fits if the pin layout is not the same the PSU will either refuse to work or worse it will fry.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea now I know why custom sleeved cable service have specific PSU list available.
> 
> Also, I heard that SuperFlower Leadex psu are really good, but I just can't find them anywhere that sell them in the US? I want the White color one but have no idea where I can buy them?
Click to expand...

they are not sold in US EVGA uses them however for their g2/p2/t2 platforms but not in white

i sourced mine ( expensive ) from china ( i go every year or every other year )


----------



## gdubc

You could get them shipped to US from OCUK at one time but they are out of stock now. I got a 1200 watt model a couple years back but wanted the 1000 unit also. I noticed that the 1050w Seasonic Snow Silent is at Amazon at $220 with prime free shipping and the 750w is at $170.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You could get them shipped to US from OCUK at one time but they are out of stock now. I got a 1200 watt model a couple years back but wanted the 1000 unit also. I noticed that the 1050w Seasonic Snow Silent is at Amazon at $220 with prime free shipping and the 750w is at $170.


Yea the Superflower Leadex 1000w is about the same price too, but i will have to pay $70+ shipping.


----------



## gdubc

It's a bitter pill but to some its sometimes worth it







I paid $70 shipping as well but I also got some Alpenfohn fans and odds and ends to try to make it a better value, lol. I just wanted that beautiful thing bad!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It's a bitter pill but to some its sometimes worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I paid $70 shipping as well but I also got some Alpenfohn fans and odds and ends to try to make it a better value, lol. I just wanted that beautiful thing bad!


Sorry but what's Alpenfohn fans? and u put that Alpenfohn fan inside the psu?


----------



## gdubc

They're just a brand of fan that also wasnt available in the US. Now I think Performance sells Parvum fans which are made by Alpenfohn and are essentially the same as the Wing Boost 2. They are just quiet pwm case fans that were one of only a couple good 140mm/pwm fan choices at the time.
Alpenföhn linky


----------



## smke

trying to find a good 650 to 750 w psu to replace my 460w cooler master psu with full modular black cables and 8 to 10 sata conectors here is what my system is

mobo asus z97 deluxe/usb3.1
cpu i7 4790k oc to 47 and uncore to 46
memory G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400
vid caed NVIDIA GeForce GT 740
tv tuner Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 (8851)
sound Sound Blaster Z
Silverstone ECU01 PCI-E Gen 2.0 Card w/ 2 x Internal 19-Pin USB3.0 10Gbps Ports requires a sata conector
ssd G.SKILL FM-25S3-240GPFS
hdd1 500gb wd green
hdd2 500gb wd green
odd 1 lg blue ray burner
odd 2 lite on dvd burner

that's what I have now. here is what I want to add

ek predator 240
hdd 3 2tb wd red
hdd 4 2tb wd red
memory G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> trying to find a good 650 to 750 w psu to replace my 460w cooler master psu with full modular black cables and 8 to 10 sata conectors here is what my system is
> 
> mobo asus z97 deluxe/usb3.1
> cpu i7 4790k oc to 47 and uncore to 46
> memory G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400
> vid caed NVIDIA GeForce GT 740
> tv tuner Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 (8851)
> sound Sound Blaster Z
> Silverstone ECU01 PCI-E Gen 2.0 Card w/ 2 x Internal 19-Pin USB3.0 10Gbps Ports requires a sata conector
> ssd G.SKILL FM-25S3-240GPFS
> hdd1 500gb wd green
> hdd2 500gb wd green
> odd 1 lg blue ray burner
> odd 2 lite on dvd burner
> 
> that's what I have now. here is what I want to add
> 
> ek predator 240
> hdd 3 2tb wd red
> hdd 4 2tb wd red
> memory G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400


Before I look for PSUs to recommend, why are you looking for a good 650-750W PSU? Are you planning to have like two GTX 980s?


----------



## SteezyTN

@shilka, can you help me out here? I'm wondering if a 1000 watt PSU would be enough for my rig:

4770K (4.5ghz @ 1.315v)
Two Titan X's (1493mhz @ 1.274v)
Three D5 pumps
20 fans

I'm wondering because I would like to get a PSU that has a fanless mode. I finally got my watercooling setup to where I can have my fans on lowest settings, and two of the pumps. Now the 1300 G2 is so overpowering, it's all I hear.

When I had the AX860 (and only one pump and 10 fans at the time), it would restart. I couldn't even push my cards that high. I could only do a slight overclock, and just hope the PSU wouldn't shut down. Would an extra 140 watts still be cutting it, or should I stick in the 1200w range to be safe?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> @shilka, can you help me out here? I'm wondering if a 1000 watt PSU would be enough for my rig:
> 
> 4770K (4.5ghz @ 1.315v)
> Two Titan X's (1493mhz @ 1.274v)
> Three D5 pumps
> 20 fans
> 
> I'm wondering because I would like to get a PSU that has a fanless mode. I finally got my watercooling setup to where I can have my fans on lowest settings, and two of the pumps. Now the 1300 G2 is so overpowering, it's all I hear.
> 
> When I had the AX860 (and only one pump and 10 fans at the time), it would restart. I couldn't even push my cards that high. I could only do a slight overclock, and just hope the PSU wouldn't shut down. Would an extra 140 watts still be cutting it, or should I stick in the 1200w range to be safe?


Not enough, you might wanna look into a 1300W+ psu. Might as well just get a 1500w psu


----------



## Mega Man

1300 $?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1300 $?


I mean 1300W


----------



## shilka

The G2 units above 850 watts does not have hybrid fan mode on them.
So if you are looking at an EVGA PSU above 850 watts and you want hybrid fan mode you are going to have to get a P2 or a T2.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The G2 units above 850 watts does not have hybrid fan mode on them.
> So if you are looking at an EVGA PSU above 850 watts and you want hybrid fan mode you are going to have to get a P2 or a T2.


i know. I'm just asking if a 1000 would be enough for my setup. I know about the fanless modes. I'm torn between the 1200 P2 and AX1200i, but the prices


----------



## jincuteguy

So between an EVGA 1000W Titanium and EVGA 1200W Platinum psu, which one gives more power?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So between an EVGA 1000W Titanium and EVGA 1200W Platinum psu, which one gives more power?


EVGA 1200W Platinum, it's 1200w vs 1000w for the other.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> EVGA 1200W Platinum, it's 1200w vs 1000w for the other.


Thx for the info, so those Titanium psu are just marketing ? Cause I don't see the use of it?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Thx for the info, so those Titanium psu are just marketing ? Cause I don't see the use of it?


They do exactly what they claim- pass 80+ Titanium efficiency rating. No marketing here, but not all will find it worth the extra charge over gold or platinum.


----------



## shilka

80 plus is efficiency it has nothing to do with rated output stability or quality of any kind.

This is how efficiency works
On Efficiency

Anyone that claims that one PSU with a higher 80 plus rating is better then another with a lower 80 plus rating has either been brainwashed by marketing hype or have no idea what they are talking about.
Why 80 PLUS® is Irrelevant to You When Buying a PSU


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

1000w titanium will pull less power from the wall socket compared to a 1000w platinum, so less wasted energy and less heat produced from the unit.

Both produce 1000w though, just the platinum unit will pull more power from the wall. I'm no expert, but this is my understanding.


----------



## TwoCables

The efficiency of a PSU has absolutely nothing to do with its output capacity. It's not related in any way. To put it simply, the more efficient a PSU is, the less power it will have to pull from the wall. It doesn't have any relation to how much power it can deliver to the computer.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1000w titanium will pull less power from the wall socket compared to a 1000w platinum, so less wasted energy and less heat produced from the unit.
> 
> Both produce 1000w though, just the platinum unit will pull more power from the wall. I'm no expert, but this is my understanding.


That is how it works but its so little you save that the extra cost of the higher rating is going to cost a lot more.
Even at 1000 watts we are 20 watts saved by going from a G2 to a P2 and another 20 watts saved by going from a P2 to a T2.

So no the higher rating is not worth the extra cost.
Even at a 1600 watts load we are talking about 32 watts, sure its 64 watts if we are talking G2 to T2 but again how much does 64 watts costs?


----------



## TwoCables

Pulling an extra 64W continuously for several hours every day can add up.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Pulling an extra 64W continuously for several hours every day can add up.


Yes but how long would it take to save the money from the lower draw vs the high cost of the higher rating?
And thats 1600 watts at full load and how many has a machine at that load 24/7 365 days a year or whatever?

For most people 90% efficiency is good enough.


----------



## jincuteguy

So right now I have the old Enermax 850w Galaxy DXX series , if anyone remember this PSU from Enermax back then. I been using it for over 7years+ now, still working like a Champ.

Does anyone knows what efficiency rating for it? Is it Bronze or something? And how much Watts do I save jumping from a Bronze psu to a Platinum and Titanium psu? thx.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So right now I have the old Enermax 850w Galaxy DXX series , if anyone remember this PSU from Enermax back then. I been using it for over 7years+ now, still working like a Champ.
> 
> Does anyone knows what efficiency rating for it? Is it Bronze or something? And how much Watts do I save jumping from a Bronze psu to a Platinum and Titanium psu? thx.


Its not even 80 plus rated so who knows what the efficiency is.
But if you get a G2 you are going to get at least 5% higher efficiency if not twice that.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its not even 80 plus rated so who knows what the efficiency is.
> But if you get a G2 you are going to get at least 5% higher efficiency if not twice that.


Yea I always thought it's 80+ silver or something hahah oh well. But yea this is the PSU im using atm for over 7 years
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=59


----------



## shilka

Oh wow highest efficiency on the Enermax is 81% and lowest is 64%.
The EVGA SuperNova G2 is 90% and 81% compared.

T2 is 94% and 87%.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Oh wow highest efficiency on the Enermax is 81% and lowest is 64%.
> The EVGA SuperNova G2 is 90% and 81% compared.
> 
> T2 is 94% and 87%.


What about EVGA P2?

Is that a big improvement? Maybe I should just buy a new PSU haha, maybe that's why my Asus X99-A board got the Q-code "00 a week ago and I have to send it back to Asus for repair. Right now I'm using the MSI X99 Godlike board just so I can still use my PC. Do you think it was the Enermax PSU that caused it cause it's too old?


----------



## shilka

The P2 is 92% and 84%.
And i dont think the P2 and T2 are worth the extra cost.

You are aware that having too much wattage will also lower the efficiency at lower loads right?
850 watt is overkill for the system you have under your sig so if you are going to buy a new PSU there is no need to get another 850 watt.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The P2 is 92% and 84%.
> And i dont think the P2 and T2 are worth the extra cost.
> 
> You are aware that having too much wattage will also lower the efficiency at lower loads right?
> 850 watt is overkill for the system you have under your sig so if you are going to buy a new PSU there is no need to get another 850 watt.


WEll my 5820K is overclocked at 4.5ghz, and im planning to buy 2 x 980ti or wait for the new Pascal nvidia gpus to come out in June .

And also I have 6 x 140mm fans running and I'm planning to do a custom loop with 2 x 360m Rad with D5 pump.

Should I get 1200W P2 psu?

But do you think I should get ridof this old Enermax 850w psu and get at least a Gold psu?


----------



## shilka

Since i cant see inyo the future i cant tell you what the power draws of the new cards are going to be like.
But yeah sure get a 1200 watt P2 if you are going with a system like that.

I would say your average efficiency with your old Enermax is about 75-78% give or take.
So getting a P2 will give you up to somewhere around 13-17% better efficiency.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Since i cant see inyo the future i cant tell you what the power draws of the new cards are going to be like.
> But yeah sure get a 1200 watt P2 if you are going with a system like that.
> 
> I would say your average efficiency with your old Enermax is about 75-78% give or take.
> So getting a P2 will give you up to somewhere around 13-17% better efficiency.


Yea I was initially going with the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w, but I don't see anyone running 2 x 980tis + 6core cpus overclocked with less than 1300w psu.
So I doubt 1050w will be enough, that's why I wanted a 1200 or 1300+ psu now. What do you think? Or 1050w is fine for overclocked 6core cpu + 2 gpus?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Since i cant see inyo the future i cant tell you what the power draws of the new cards are going to be like.
> But yeah sure get a 1200 watt P2 if you are going with a system like that.
> 
> I would say your average efficiency with your old Enermax is about 75-78% give or take.
> So getting a P2 will give you up to somewhere around 13-17% better efficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I was initially going with the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w, but I don't see anyone running 2 x 980tis + 6core cpus overclocked with less than 1300w psu.
> So I doubt 1050w will be enough, that's why I wanted a 1200 or 1300+ psu now. What do you think? Or 1050w is fine for overclocked 6core cpu + 2 gpus?
Click to expand...

i see your 6 core and raise you two.







(*its a 5960X with SLI titanX*)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> Did a little wattage measurement. Kill-A-Watt (so values "at the plug")
> cpu 4.625/1.35V Ram 3333 1.38V
> 
> Cyclops Bios
> Power @ 130% no offset voltage, 0% on both clocks:
> (Base clocks)
> Idle: 142W (all are +/- "5-ish" watts)
> Heaven 1080P: 590W
> Heaven 4K: 590W
> Mark 11 Scn#1: 710W
> FS scn#1: 670W
> FSU scn#1: 670W (full 4K ... volt limit kicks in)
> 
> 
> 
> *+87mV +260/+494 on core/vram:
> FSU: 840W*
> 
> 
> 
> i love seeing killawatt posts!
> (+1)
> 
> is that with the AX1500i?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: If So:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=378
> 
> so using a slightly rounded up to 94% (error on the side of caution)
> 
> 840*.94= *~790 watts
> *
> a cautious person would derate 80% for 987.5 - or a 1K PSU
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i get weird with this stuff . . sorry.
Click to expand...

however keep in mind the heavier the load on the 12 volt rail the more ripple it will have affecting stability. though a 1K PSU will be enough, giving yourself a little wiggle room could help. so nothing "wrong" with getting 1200-1300 watts.


----------



## stin0

@shilka Can I join the awesome SF Platinum 550w club?


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> @shilka Can I join the awesome SF Platinum 550w club?


how did you get this white SF psu?


----------



## Kimir

How? He is in Europe, they are available for us.


----------



## shilka

The white Leadex is common in Europe.


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> how did you get this white SF psu?


Last time I checked my SF psu was black, only the box is white








I bought it upon release, the white ones weren't available back then.. They are now though (In Europe that is)


----------



## jincuteguy

Should I spend $300+ ($100 shipping + $200 for the psu) for the White 1000w SF psu? Or just buy the Seasonic Snow Silent 1050w for $200+?


----------



## shilka

If you want a white PSU there is also the NZXT HALE 90 V2 to consider.
If anyone still sells it that is as i have not seen it in a while.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If you want a white PSU there is also the NZXT HALE 90 V2 to consider.
> If anyone still sells it that is as i have not seen it in a while.


Yea but doubt i can buy a white nzxt any more. So would you recommend spending $300+ for white SF leadex 1000w or Seasonic snow silent 1050w for $200?


----------



## gdubc

That's really something you have to decide for yourself. Is the Superflower going to perform $100 better? No. But is it going to be worth an extra $100 to you when you look in there? It was for me, lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea but doubt i can buy a white nzxt any more. So would you recommend spending $300+ for white SF leadex 1000w or Seasonic snow silent 1050w for $200?


The SeaSonic because it has a lower price and it's also a very beautiful white high-end PSU.


----------



## shilka

The Leadex is not worth all that trouble.


----------



## indyjones

Apologies if already asked, but do the super flower leadex cables fit the EVGA T2 psus please?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indyjones*
> 
> Apologies if already asked, but do the super flower leadex cables fit the EVGA T2 psus please?


No they do not


----------



## indyjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> No they do not


The connectors are identical, so is it just the pin out? If so it would not be the end of the world to swap some leads about.


----------



## Mega Man

That is the 2kw unit, which is the ONLY SuperFlower leadex with that connector

Also the same connectors does not mean the same pin out


----------



## indyjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is the 2kw unit, which is the ONLY SuperFlower leadex with that connector
> 
> Also the same connectors does not mean the same pin out


Looking at it again that is the 1kw unit Ti, as you have said it's completely different to other units and looking at the plugs on the lead kits they are indeed different.


----------



## CannedBullets

Is the included 4 pin fan connector to molex adapter that comes with the Supernova P2 750W reliable enough to use?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Is the included 4 pin fan connector to molex adapter that comes with the Supernova P2 750W reliable enough to use?


I think so. I haven't seen anyone complaining about it.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think so. I haven't seen anyone complaining about it.


Good to hear because my rear chassis fan cord is too far from any fan ports.


----------



## indyjones

How is the fan noise on the EVGA 850W P2, and the T series please?

My system is is pretty damn quiet being watercooled and I want the PSU to keep it that way


----------



## Mystriss

I've got an EVGA 1600w T2 in a separate HTPC chassis with all my HDD's (and an not-oft-used ITX) and I've not once heard the PSU fan at all. I did have to put foam under my case feet and between the chassis and the side of my desk though because when the PSU fan does kick in (I've got it in eco mode so it doesn't run all the time) it vibrated everything and made quite a racket heh


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I've got an EVGA 1600w T2 in a separate HTPC chassis with all my HDD's (and an not-oft-used ITX) and I've not once heard the PSU fan at all. I did have to put foam under my case feet and between the chassis and the side of my desk though because when the PSU fan does kick in (I've got it in eco mode so it doesn't run all the time) it vibrated everything and made quite a racket heh


Of course you never hear the fan; this PSU is extremely excessive major overkill for your rig.


----------



## Mystriss

^^ this is true, and it works beautifully for my recording studio!

My 1600w is running an FX-8350 4.6GHz (stock until I WC) and dual Asus R9-290X DCII's (also stock until I WC) Still I have had the fan kick on once in a while, more often in the summer (dark brown south facing house and no AC in Alaska,) but for the most part, yea it doesn't kick on.

So ya know, if you want a silent PSU like I did - overkill for the win


----------



## Mega Man

depends on the amount of hdds


----------



## benjamen50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Is the included 4 pin fan connector to molex adapter that comes with the Supernova P2 750W reliable enough to use?


Well I think the quality of the 4 pin to molex are pretty much the same for any other one.


----------



## SteezyTN

How much "quieter" is the EVGA 1200 P2 over the 1300 G2? I can get one for $190, and thinking about changing out my 1300 G2.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> How much "quieter" is the EVGA 1200 P2 over the 1300 G2? I can get one for $190, and thinking about changing out my 1300 G2.


At lower loads its a hell of a lot more quiet as it has a hybrd fan mode which means that the fan does not spin at loads below 375 watts.


Compare that curve to the G2 1300 watt


At high loads (above 800 watts) the P2 is just as loud as the G2.


----------



## 241pizza

May I join the 1000w P2 list please.
Underutilized right now until 2nd 290x is added.


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> At lower loads its a hell of a lot more quiet as it has a hybrd fan mode which means that the fan does not spin at loads below 375 watts.
> 
> At high loads (above 800 watts) the P2 is just as loud as the G2.


Im running Titan X SLI pushing maxed out volts and a 4770k at 1.3v. I also have 20 fans and 3 pumps (yes 3). When I'm gaming, I'm sure I'll be pushing a crap load of power, so overall, I should stick with the 1300 G2 then?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Im running Titan X SLI pushing maxed out volts and a 4770k at 1.3v. I also have 20 fans and 3 pumps (yes 3). When I'm gaming, I'm sure I'll be pushing a crap load of power, so overall, I should stick with the 1300 G2 then?


The P2 is about the same as the G2 at those loads so no dont bother.

Not even the T2 1600 watt is quiet at high loads


----------



## xTesla1856

Quick question: Would you think a SuperNova 1000P2 is enough for 2 R9 Furies (non-X) ? I'm asking because one of my cards just randomly died during gameplay and I'm trying to figure out if the defect is to blame on any other hardware in my rig (sig rig). Thanks guys


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Quick question: Would you think a SuperNova 1000P2 is enough for 2 R9 Furies (non-X) ? I'm asking because one of my cards just randomly died during gameplay and I'm trying to figure out if the defect is to blame on any other hardware in my rig (sig rig). Thanks guys


Its more then enough unless the PSU is broken.


----------



## xTesla1856

Def not broken, was just wondering


----------



## TwoCables

A high-end PSU wouldn't be able to kill a video card if the PSU's output capacity isn't enough. If it's not enough, then the PSU would (or should) harmlessly turn off.


----------



## siffonen

Looking for a new psu to replace my current faulty hx850. Supernova 850 P2 seems to be a good choice? It is slightly smaller than G2 which is better for my setup, how about the noise?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Looking for a new psu to replace my current faulty hx850. Supernova 850 P2 seems to be a good choice? It is slightly smaller than G2 which is better for my setup, how about the noise?


With your power consumption, its fan won't even be needed. You could power your system very easily even with a good quality-made 550W PSU and still have room left over. So yeah, it should be dead silent.


----------



## duganator

Just ordered a 1300g2 from evga b stock. Anyone have any advice on ordering custom cables?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Just ordered a 1300g2 from evga b stock. Anyone have any advice on ordering custom cables?


Dang really how much of a discount did you get. doesn't b stock only have a 1 year warranty? It would have to be a major discount for me to give up a 10 year warranty for a 1 year one.


----------



## duganator

It was a hefty discount, plus, imo if something like a psu is going to fail it will do so within the first six months
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Dang really how much of a discount did you get. doesn't b stock only have a 1 year warranty? It would have to be a major discount for me to give up a 10 year warranty for a 1 year one.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> It was a hefty discount, plus, imo if something like a psu is going to fail it will do so within the first six months


That is true the first 6 months or the second 5 years. If it was a 3 year warranty that would be different but its a 10 year lol. I guess however at 6 -8 years they would probably say old age.

You will most likely end up voiding that warrnty the first day anyway, when you mod it lol.

that fan is like a jet engine and not jst with heavily loud it is always extremely loud, I mean extremely. Swapping that fan is a must lol.


----------



## duganator

For the price I paid, I'm not terribly concerned about this thing lasting ten years. My current psu is about five years old and 850w and I paid more for it than I am this psu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That is true the first 6 months or the second 5 years. If it was a 3 year warranty that would be different but its a 10 year lol. I guess however at 6 -8 years they would probably say old age.
> 
> You will most likely end up voiding that warrnty the first day anyway, when you mod it lol.
> 
> that fan is like a jet engine and not jst with heavily loud it is always extremely loud, I mean extremely. Swapping that fan is a must lol.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> For the price I paid, I'm not terribly concerned about this thing lasting ten years. My current psu is about five years old and 850w and I paid more for it than I am this psu.


EVGA currently has the Bstock 1300 G2 for $120. That may or may not be a good deal for you, but it's definately not a good deal for me lol. I got my brand new 1300 G2 for $150 and covered by a 10 year warranty.


----------



## duganator

Where?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> EVGA currently has the Bstock 1300 G2 for $120. That may or may not be a good deal for you, but it's definately not a good deal for me lol. I got my brand new 1300 G2 for $150 and covered by a 10 year warranty.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Where?


You mean where for 150? I do not know where he got it for 150, however I would assume he did not get a 10 year warranty with that purchase.

Pro tip a lot of people dont know. EVGA only will give you the second owner warranty unless its on of there authorized retailers. Does not matter if it is Brand New when you bought it or not. That means you get a 3 years after manufactured warranty only (that could be less than a year from B stock)

There authorized Retailers list in the US is,

Amazon (there is a catch here, it has to be sold by amazon not a 3rd party on amazon (aslo not shipped by Amazon, Sold by Amazon!), this also applies to New Egg and there 3rd party sellers)
New Egg (see above)
Best Buy
Frys Electronics
Central Computers
Buy.com
NCIX US
Performance PCs
Sidewinder PCs

This is good to remember for EVGA as it applies to ALL of there products. It is very stupid if I buy a new product I should get a New Warranty, but thats how they do things.

For a full list of all country's ect, here http://www.evga.com/Products/WhereToBuy.aspx.

Now if you are buying something that was just released, then there is less concern. However in the case of this power supply if it came from an early batch, well the first batches are from more than 3 years ago or right about. So that 150 could get you no warranty at all, just a heads up.

That might actually be a good thing to specifiy in the OP of the club as it is a big unknown for a lot people. I know because I have used EVGA whenever I use NV GPUs (I have had, A Lot we will say that







) exclusively for like ever and have owned 3 EVGA boards as well (the one I am typing is an EVGA motherboard, with a EVGA 980Ti and a G2 1600w lol). And Have fell victim to this bull a few times.

Also register it within 30 days of receiving a new one and upload an Invoice as that can also drop your warranty to the 2-3 year from made date.

Anyway 120 is a good deal as to get the 10 year from what I am seeing is well over 200 dollars, and buying from others risks no warranty at all.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Where?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Where what? He told you Evga B stock
> 
> http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=120-G2-1300-RX
> 
> Or do you mean where for 150? I do not know where he got it for 150, however I would assume he did not get a 10 year warranty with that purchase.
> 
> Pro tip a lot of people dont know. EVGA only will give you the second owner warranty unless its on of there authorized retailers. Does not matter if it is Brand New when you bought it or not. That means you get a 3 years after manufactured warranty only (that could be less than a year from B stock)
> 
> There authorized Retailers list in the US is,
> 
> Amazon (there is a catch here, it has to be sold by amazon not a 3rd party on amazon (aslo not shipped by Amazon, Sold by Amazon!), this also applies to New Egg and there 3rd party sellers)
> New Egg (see above)
> Best Buy
> Frys Electronics
> Central Computers
> Buy.com
> NCIX US
> Performance PCs
> Sidewinder PCs
> 
> This is good to remember for EVGA as it applies to ALL of there products. It is very stupid if I buy a new product I should get a New Warranty, but thats how they do things.
> 
> For a full list of all country's ect, here http://www.evga.com/Products/WhereToBuy.aspx.
> 
> Now if you are buying something that was just released, then there is less concern. However in the case of this power supply if it came from an early batch, well the first batches are from more than 3 years ago or right about. So that 150 could get you no warranty at all, just a heads up.
> 
> That might actually be a good thing to specifiy in the OP of the club as it is a big unknown for a lot people. I know because I have used EVGA whenever I use NV GPUs exclusively for like ever and have owned 3 EVGA board as well (the one I am typing is an EVGA motherboard, with a EVGA 980Ti and a G2 1600w lol). And Have fell victim to this bull a few times.
> 
> Also register it within 30 days of receiving a new one and upload an Invoice as that can also drop your warranty top the 2-3 year from made date.
> 
> Anyway 120 is a good deal as to get the 10 year from what I am seeing is well over 200 dollars, and buying from others risks no warranty at all.


I just said I got the full warranty. I ordered it from TigerDirect. You can find them for good prices at certain times. I believe Amazon just had it for $169.99 with a $20 mail in rebate.

And no! You are wrong. EVGA will give you the 3 year warranty even if it's been purchased second hand from ANYWHERE! It's just different than the original owners. For example, the 3 years starts from when the product was shipped from there wear house.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I just said I got the full warranty. I ordered it from TigerDirect. You can find them for good prices at certain times. I believe Amazon just had it for $169.99 with a $20 mail in rebate. .


We will start here, No you dont, Tiger direct is not an authorized retailer, you do not get the full warranty if you purchase from them, sorry to burst your bubble.

"The following warranty lengths are provided to the Original Purchaser for EVGA products purchased on or after July 1, 2011 from an *EVGA authorized reseller* *with a valid proof of purchase*. For EVGA products *not purchased from an EVGA authorized reseller or for owners that do not have a valid proof of purchase than the warranty is available for up to 3 years*, which will not exceed the warranty length assigned to the part number, and the warranty will start from the EVGA shipping date. For more details on the EVGA transferable warranty then please see the Transferable Warranty section below."

There you go from there page, http://www.evga.com/support/warranty/power-supplies/. I am telling you have been through this, Tiger Direct is NOT an authorized retailer plain and simple.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> And no! You are wrong. EVGA will give you the 3 year warranty even if it's been purchased second hand from ANYWHERE! It's just different than the original owners. For example, the 3 years starts from when the product was shipped from there wear house.


I never said you wont get the Second Owner warranty no matter where you bought it from, I am saying you will get that no matter where you buy it from other than the places I listed, used or new does not matter.

This is why the OP should specify this, as I realize that not many people know this as you apparently did not. also again with the registering if you do not within 30 days you get a 2 year warranty (best to just not give them the info and take the 3 lol).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> we will start here, No you dont, Tiger direct is not an authorized retailer, you do not get the full warranty if you purchase from them, sorry to burst your bubble.
> 
> "The following warranty lengths are provided to the Original Purchaser for EVGA products purchased on or after July 1, 2011 from an *EVGA authorized reseller* *with a valid proof of purchase*. For EVGA products *not purchased from an EVGA authorized reseller or for owners that do not have a valid proof of purchase than the warranty is available for up to 3 years*, which will not exceed the warranty length assigned to the part number, and the warranty will start from the EVGA shipping date. For more details on the EVGA transferable warranty then please see the Transferable Warranty section below."
> 
> There you go from there page, http://www.evga.com/support/warranty/power-supplies/. I am telling you have been through this, Tiger Direct is NOT an authorized retailer plain and simple.
> I never said you wont get the Second Owner warranty no matter where you bought it from, I am saying you will get that no matter where you buy it from other than the places I listed, used or new does not matter.
> 
> This is why the OP should specify this, as I realize that not many people know this as you apparently did not. also again with the registering if you do not within 30 days you get a 2 year warranty (best to just not give them the info and take the 3 lol).


TigerDirect IS AN AUTHORIZED RESELLER!

I think recently they took it off. For a few months, Tiger had something going on with their inventory and literally everything that had wasn't in stock. I remember distinctly looking at the EVGA website when I bought it back in June, and Tiger was on there. Either way, I'm still covered. It may be different for new users though.

I even called about Jet.com because I was thinking about getting the 1200 P2 for $180 from them. I was told I would only get the full 10 year warranty IF jet got it from Amazon.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> TigerDirect IS AN AUTHORIZED RESELLER!


No they are not! Look for yourself, http://www.evga.com/products/WhereToBuy.aspx?t=online I gave you the list of Authorized Resellers and they are NOT on it. Case closed.

Tiger Direct also like New Egg has 3d party sellers and if they were an authorized re seller and you bought from there 3rd party marketplace seller you would also not get the full warranty. It may say you did in the case of new egg, as you selected new egg but when they check your invoice they will say nope!.

Now tiger Direct may have been a Authorized reseller when you bought your power supply and registered it, IDK know as I do not constantly check that, I do not shop from them. However they are NOT as of now.


----------



## duganator

Honestly, I'm happy with my purchase. I have no plans on keeping a power supply for ten years anyway. I'm sure in three years I'll be ready for the latest and greatest. I'll post pictures when I install the new psu


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> No they are not! Look for yourself, http://www.evga.com/products/WhereToBuy.aspx?t=online I gave you the list of Authorized Resellers and they are NOT on it. Case closed.
> 
> Tiger Direct also like New Egg has 3d party sellers and if they were an authorized re seller and you bought from there 3rd party marketplace seller you would also not get the full warranty. It may say you did in the case of new egg, as you selected new egg but when they check your invoice they will say nope!.
> 
> Now tiger Direct may have been a Authorized reseller when you bought your power supply and registered it, IDK know as I do not constantly check that, I do not shop from them. However they are NOT as of now.


Check my edit! Don't argue with me. I know what I'm talking about!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> TigerDirect IS AN AUTHORIZED RESELLER!
> 
> I think recently they took it off. For a few months, Tiger had something going on with their inventory and literally everything that had wasn't in stock. I remember distinctly looking at the EVGA website when I bought it back in June, and Tiger was on there. Either way, I'm still covered. It may be different for new users though.
> 
> I even called about Jet.com because I was thinking about getting the 1200 P2 for $180 from them. I was told I would only get the full 10 year warranty IF jet got it from Amazon.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Check my edit! Don't argue with me. I know what I'm talking about!


Okay well they lied to you. It does not matter where jet gets it from, If you do not have a Amazon Invoice at the time of registering the product, that states that YOU bought it from Amazon they will not honor that as a 10 year warranty period. I have been through this, many times with them I promise you I know exactly what I am talking about.

As to them changing that is entirely possible, I do remember seeing Tiger on there before as well, it however looks like they have dropped them for whatever reason. If your Product is register through tiger direct and you provided the invoice and your registration says 10 years than you are aces.

However as you have said new users will not share that same experience, also if you bought it from a 3rd part on tiger and you need to actually use that warranty they will not honor it when they see that it was a 3rd party, they do check, but not until you got to RMA it/Step up ECT.

What I do and have done for awhile do to many issues with this, If I am buying a product like a GPU that is new that I will only keep a year or 2 I buy it from wherever. However if buying a Power Supply or Motherboard I buy from them Directly, that way they have no leeway to argue or deny the warranty.

I know this for a fact, after having warranty's refused on multiple occasions over the past 10 years.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay well they lied to you. It does not matter where jet gets it from, If you do not have a Amazon Invoice at the time of registering the product, that states that YOU bought it from Amazon they will not honor that as a 10 year warranty period. I have been through this, many times with them I promise you I know exactly what I am talking about.
> 
> As to them changing that is entirely possible, I do remember seeing Tiger on there before as well, it however looks like they have dropped them for whatever reason. If your Product is register through tiger direct and you provided the invoice and your registration says 10 years than you are aces.
> 
> However as you have said new users will not share that same experience, also if you bought it from a 3rd part on tiger and you need to actually use that warranty they will not honor it when they see that it was a 3rd party, they do check, but not until you got to RMA it/Step up ECT.
> 
> What I do and have done for awhile do to many issues with this, If I am buying a product like a GPU that is new that I will only keep a year or 2 I buy it from wherever. However if buying a Power Supply or Motherboard I buy from them Directly, that way they have no leeway to argue or deny the warranty.


That's kind of why I bolded the letters of "IF". You're almost repeating everything I'm saying, but writting an entire essay on it.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's kind of why I bolded the letters of "IF". You're almost repeating everything I'm saying, but writting an entire essay on it.


I dont see any bolded letters in any of your posts. I do see you going ballistic on me, and misinterpreting what I am saying trying to help duganator and future users that read this.

I also see you fighting with me about the subject that you claim to KNOW, and yet you called EVGA to ask about. I dont need to call EVGA and ask as I know, I have been through this very situation more times than I would care to admit. I know there warranty service like the back of my hand. Anyway, I am not here to fight with you, I am here to enjoy myself and help others so Blocked and have a good one.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I dont see any bolded letters in any of your posts. I do see you going ballistic on me, and misinterpreting what I am saying trying to help duganator and future users that read this.
> 
> I also see you fighting with me about the subject that you claim to KNOW, and yet you called EVGA to ask about. I dont need to call EVGA and ask as I know, I have been through this very situation more times than I would care to admit. I know there warranty service like the back of my hand. Anyway, I am not here to fight with you, I am here to enjoy myself and help others so Blocked and have a good one.


Bold, capitalized, whatever. You're the one who kept denying ME, saying I'm pretty much not under warranty because I bought it from TD. My posting has nothing about helping others out. I was just trying to tell you I'm under warranty.

What does me not knowing the warranty on the back of my head even matter? I called, and I got an answer. That's only for my sakes, not for others.


----------



## Killa Cam

Man, im in the market for dat sweet 1200w white supeflower leadex but theres no where across the pond to buy it from. Overclockers.co.uk is all sold out and idk any other international online stores that have it to order and shipped stateside. Its a shame superflower hasnt made any 1600w whites ones.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Man, im in the market for dat sweet 1200w white supeflower leadex but theres no where across the pond to buy it from. Overclockers.co.uk is all sold out and idk any other international online stores that have it to order and shipped stateside. Its a shame superflower hasnt made any 1600w whites ones.


I want one as well they are gorgeous









I really wish AQT would get them as 7 dollar shopping would be king


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I want one as well they are gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish AQT would get them as 7 dollar shopping would be king


Aqt? Aquatuning?

Yeah, i gave up. Ocuk said they didnt know when it would be back in stock. Gave in and ordered me a evga 1600w p2. Totally overkill for my needs right now. But id like to be prepared for anything.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Aqt? Aquatuning?
> 
> Yeah, i gave up. Ocuk said they didnt know when it would be back in stock. Gave in and ordered me a evga 1600w p2. Totally overkill for my needs right now. But id like to be prepared for anything.


Ya Aquatuning.


----------



## CannedBullets

Did an overhaul on my PC, included putting in an EVGA Supernova 750 P2. Could I get added to the owner's list?


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## EVGA-JacobF

New game bundle for all EVGA Gold, Platinum, Titanium PSU's:

http://www.evga.com/articles/00989/grey-goo/


----------



## shilka

Grey Goo was a damm good and really underrated game so this is a great deal.
Grey Goo


----------



## Diablosbud

Hey guys. I'm thinking of buying a new power supply soon because my Seasonic X-850 is starting to get a little old and I could use it in my old desktop or as a spare. I'm looking at the EVGA SuperNova G2 550W as a cheap, but good option (according to reviews it appears to have better regulation than my X-850 and seems like a logical upgrade).

I was just curious if the 550W would be enough for my 4.7 GHz i5-6600K at 1.385V and my 1519 MHz GTX 970 with 1.275V BIOS (also five case fans with NH-D15). I use the card at the factory 1405 MHz boost when gaming, but fold at 1519 MHz and want to be sure it'll be enough to handle it. Thanks in advance.


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> I was just curious if the 550W would be enough for my 4.7 GHz i5-6600K at 1.385V and my 1519 MHz GTX 970 with 1.275V BIOS (also five case fans with NH-D15). I use the card at the factory 1405 MHz boost when gaming, but fold at 1519 MHz and want to be sure it'll be enough to handle it. Thanks in advance.


I would be amazed if your system, while fully overclocked, would ever even reach 375w of power consumption.
You should look at an EVGA G2 550w or Corsair RM550X; both are excellent PSUs that will last a loooong time.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> I would be amazed if your system, while fully overclocked, would ever even reach 375w of power consumption.
> You should look at an EVGA G2 550w or Corsair RM550X; both are excellent PSUs that will last a loooong time.


I thought so, these power supply calculators keep confusing me with insanely high consumption estimates







. Thanks, I'll look into them.


----------



## shilka

Forget about all of those so called calculators they are all wrong so its a total waste of time to use them.


----------



## xTesla1856

I know this comes down to personal opinion but when it comes to PSU's, I like overkill. I like the peace of mind of knowing that you have more than enough headroom. Also, I believe by stressing my PSU less, it runs cooler, quieter and ultimately lasts longer. But again, I may be insane


----------



## TwoCables

Peace of mind isn't needed when you have knowledge.

You don't need overkill if you have a good PSU.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> I know this comes down to personal opinion but when it comes to PSU's, I like overkill. I like the peace of mind of knowing that you have more than enough headroom. Also, I believe by stressing my PSU less, it runs cooler, quieter and ultimately lasts longer. But again, I may be insane


A message to the community on enthusiast power supplies
And its an old myth that its going to run cooler and last longer its not so you are just throwing away your money for no reason.


----------



## inedenimadam

I didn't know this owners club existed. I bought my 1000W G2 a few years ago when I built z77 and xfire 7970s. Never an issue out of it. I built x99 and SLI 980s Feb'15 and decided to get a 1000W NZXT Hale90v2 for that white color scheme. It reviewed real well on TPU, had almost as good numbers as the G2. Thing is, I found out this week, that it really isn't as good. I have hung my head a bit on the x99 build because I thought my 5820k was a bit of a potato, as it always required 1.35 for 45x, which is higher than average for sure. I decided to go ahead and sleeve the NZXT, and threw in my trusty G2. Low and behold, my voltage requirement for 45x dropped to 1.296...and I am also able to run my DDR4 with better timings. I have had this set up with the Hale90v2 for over a year...this isn't a fluke...I have been steady tinkering with my x99 build and know it pretty well.

Anyway, I figured I would drop by and share a small bit of excitement for the EVGA G2, this dog will hunt. About 2 hours into stress testing, I will call it done if I wake up tomorrow and it is still going. Looks like I will be sleeving the G2 instead of the Hale.


----------



## TUFinside

Hi ! I'm looking forward to buy the EVGA Supernova 750T2, i live in France and this PSU is nowhere to be found, if you know a reseller in Europe please show me which. Thank you !!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Hi ! I'm looking forward to buy the EVGA Supernova 750T2, i live in France and this PSU is nowhere to be found, if you know a reseller in Europe please show me which. Thank you !!


The T2 is not worth paying extra for so get a G2 instead.


----------



## TUFinside

Shilka,thanks for the reply, the thing is...i just sold my 850G2 ! I really want to buy the T2 for its efficiency even at low power draw and better than G2 at higher load. I agree the G2 is already very good but i'm a bit of a perfectionist. I'm puzzled on why i can't buy the T2 since it has been out since January i guess.


----------



## shilka

The 750 watt T2 is not out in the EU yet from what i know only the 850 watt is.
So either get the 850 watt or downgrade to a P2 instead.

The efficiency is not really worth it so i dont know why you want to bother.


----------



## TUFinside

Thanks Shilka, i will meditate...have a nice day !


----------



## TwoCables

It's a very small difference in efficiency, and the only thing that it affects is how much electricity is being pulled out of the wall outlet; it doesn't affect how much power the PSU can deliver to the computer, and it also doesn't effect the quality of that power.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's a very small difference in efficiency, and the only thing that it affects is how much electricity is being pulled out of the wall outlet; it doesn't affect how much power the PSU can deliver to the computer, and it also doesn't effect the quality of that power.


So Titanium would pull less electricity from the wall ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> So Titanium would pull less electricity from the wall ?


Yes but only 4% better then the G2 and thats at most.
You are not even looking at more then 1% at lower loads so why you sold your G2 makes no sense.

850 watts is so overkill anyway that you could actually get better efficiency by downgrading the wattage to a G2 550 watt instead of an 850 watt P2 or T2.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> So Titanium would pull less electricity from the wall ?


A tiny bit, but not enough to really care about unless you are seriously strapped for cash due to your electricity bill. The 80+ marketing is extremely over-hyped.


----------



## Intrepidation

Can I join?


----------



## TUFinside

Shilka and Twocables, thank you for your answers, you made my day









I will go with EVGA SuperNOVA 650 P2 Power Supply for 1 GPU, 2 SSDs, 2 or 4 HDDs and 1 CPU 140W(or so).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Shilka and Twocables, thank you for your answers, you made my day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will go with EVGA SuperNOVA 650 P2 Power Supply for 1 GPU, 2 SSDs, 2 or 4 HDDs and 1 CPU 140W(or so).


Ok, as long as you don't mind paying more than you need to for a power supply. Even the 550W G2 would be overkill.


----------



## TUFinside

Shilka and Twocables
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ok, as long as you don't mind paying more than you need to for a power supply. Even the 550W G2 would be overkill.


Agreed, i have the budget for that PSU, and for the peace of mind i prefer going that way, even i don't plan to overclock CPU nor GPU. GTX 780ti pulls 380W from the wall, Nvidia recommends 600W PSU for this GPU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Shilka and Twocables
> Agreed, i have the budget for that PSU, and for the peace of mind i prefer going that way, even i don't plan to overclock CPU nor GPU. GTX 780ti pulls 380W from the wall, Nvidia recommends 600W PSU for this GPU.


The PSU requirements that are stated by NVIDIA and AMD (and all the third-party video card manufacturers) are for peak-rated PSUs, and a 600W peak-rated PSU would have a +12V capacity of no more than 432W which is *less* than pretty much every good 450W PSU.

The 780 Ti doesn't pull 380W by itself. That's the power supply. If you assume that the power supply is 90% efficient while pulling 380W from the wall, then that would mean the entire computer is pulling 342W out of the PSU.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Shilka and Twocables
> Agreed, i have the budget for that PSU, and for the peace of mind i prefer going that way, even i don't plan to overclock CPU nor GPU. GTX 780ti pulls 380W from the wall, Nvidia recommends 600W PSU for this GPU.


Why the AMD and Nvidia power requirements are wrong


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The PSU requirements that are stated by NVIDIA and AMD (and all the third-party video card manufacturers) are for peak-rated PSUs, and a 600W peak-rated PSU would have a +12V capacity of no more than 432W which is *less* than pretty much every good 450W PSU.
> 
> The 780 Ti doesn't pull 380W by itself. That's the power supply. If you assume that the power supply is 90% efficient while pulling 380W from the wall, then that would mean the entire computer is pulling 342W out of the PSU.


Thank you for those interesting details...what would my PC pulls from the wall with the configuration i stated above?


----------



## shilka

See my last post
And that 380 watt number you got is not for the card alone its for the whole system and thats from the wall which means you need to take efficiency off.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> See my last post


I just did, that makes sense. Thanks a bunch, always a pleasure to learn !


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Thank you for those interesting details...what would my PC pulls from the wall with the configuration i stated above?


It depends on the video card. Let's assume though that it's a GTX 780 Ti. To figure out the power consumption, let's start here:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gtx_780_ti_sli_geforce_review,4.html

With one GTX 780 Ti under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 372W from the wall outlet. If we assume that their PSU was 90% efficient while pulling 372W from the wall, then that would mean the entire computer pulled 335W out of the PSU. Add 140W to that (at the most), and we get 475W. While gaming though, the power consumption would barely exceed 450W.

So, a good quality-made 550W PSU could easily power your computer and its average efficiency would be maxed out.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It depends on the video card. Let's assume though that it's a GTX 780 Ti. To figure out the power consumption, let's start here:
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/gtx_780_ti_sli_geforce_review,4.html
> 
> With one GTX 780 Ti under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 372W from the wall outlet. If we assume that their PSU was 90% efficient while pulling 372W from the wall, then that would mean the entire computer pulled 335W out of the PSU. Add 140W to that (at the most), and we get 475W. While gaming though, the power consumption would barely exceed 450W.
> 
> So, a good quality-made 550W PSU could easily power your computer and its average efficiency would be maxed out.


Thanks again, you made me change my mind and helped me to save money. Indeed the right wattage will help efficiency.







so 550W G2 it is !

+1 Rep both Shilka and Twocables !


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Thanks again, you made me change my mind and helped me to save money. Indeed the right wattage will help efficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so 550W G2 it is !
> 
> +1 Rep both Shilka and Twocables !


You're welcome!


----------



## SteezyTN

What kind of PSU is recommended for one Titan X with maxed out volts (modded/flashed), and a 4770K pushing 1.32v?

I sold one of my titans, and now I have no use for my 1300G2. Was thinking maybe 1000? Or 850-1000w?

2 pumps, 20 fans, etc.

I had an AX860 that I sold because I upgraded to the Titans, and now I wish I had it back lol.


----------



## VSG

There's not much resale value in the 1300G2 given how much it goes on sale. Why not just keep it?


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, really, just keep it. There's nothing wrong with keeping it.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There's not much resale value in the 1300G2 given how much it goes on sale. Why not just keep it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, really, just keep it. There's nothing wrong with keeping it.


i know. I kick myself for it lol. I sold my AX860 to get a bigger one for the two titans, and now I'm down grading and wish I had the AX860.

The main reason for wanting to sell it is now I have the capabilities to run everything quiet! Taking that one Tx out of my loop will definately keep things cooler. The 1300G2 is just too loud.

The transfer warranty is still good till July 2018, so I was hoping I could get a little more than $100 for it. It doesn't have too much use either. Probably 1-2 hours a week.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> i know. I kick myself for it lol. I sold my AX860 to get a bigger one for the two titans, and now I'm down grading and wish I had the AX860.
> 
> The main reason for wanting to sell it is now I have the capabilities to run everything quiet! Taking that one Tx out of my loop will definately keep things cooler. The 1300G2 is just too loud.
> 
> The transfer warranty is still good till July 2018, so I was hoping I could get a little more than $100 for it. It doesn't have too much use either. Probably 1-2 hours a week.


I admit that I thought of the infamous noise problem of this PSU, but I honestly convinced myself that it shouldn't be a problem at this power consumption - but WTH EVGA?! lol I'm disappointed in them.

I see you live in CA: do you avoid Newegg by chance? If I help you select a PSU, then I'd be using PCPartPicker.com/


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I admit that I thought of the infamous noise problem of this PSU, but I honestly convinced myself that it shouldn't be a problem at this power consumption - but WTH EVGA?! lol I'm disappointed in them.
> 
> I see you live in CA: do you avoid Newegg by chance? If I help you select a PSU, then I'd be using PCPartPicker.com/


I used newegg when I purchased my last video card (780) and memory and fans. In fact, that's where I got my AX860. But when I purchase something over 500 or so, I try and stay with tigerdirect because they don't charge taxes.

But don't get me wrong. I love the PSU, but too loud. I don't want to start this "1300G2 fan noise" controversial stuff again lol. I know it happens a lot in here. The 1300 is great and I don't mind the sound when gaming, but when I'm just web surfing or doing homework, it's too loud.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I used newegg when I purchased my last video card (780) and memory and fans. In fact, that's where I got my AX860. But when I purchase something over 500 or so, I try and stay with tigerdirect because they don't charge taxes.
> 
> But don't get me wrong. I love the PSU, but too loud. I don't want to start this "1300G2 fan noise" controversial stuff again lol. I know it happens a lot in here. The 1300 is great and I don't mind the sound when gaming, but when I'm just web surfing or doing homework, it's too loud.


What do you think about getting the 750W G2? http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220g20750xr

I found it using PCPartPicker and sorting by 750W+ and lowest price first.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you think about getting the 750W G2? http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-220g20750xr
> 
> I found it using PCPartPicker and sorting by 750W+ and lowest price first.


Well I got some good news, kinda. I was just looking at Amazon, and they had the AX860 for $139.99. I jumped on it quick. I just loved the PSU when I had it before, and never had any problems with it. I don't know if the pricing was a mistake, or if it was like a daily deal, but that's a steal. Now it's time to get rid of the 1300 G2.

I appreciate the help







thanks

But don't worry, I'm still technically a member until it's gone lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Well I got some good news, kinda. I was just looking at Amazon, and they had the AX860 for $139.99. I jumped on it quick. I just loved the PSU when I had it before, and never had any problems with it. I don't know if the pricing was a mistake, or if it was like a daily deal, but that's a steal. Now it's time to get rid of the 1300 G2.
> 
> I appreciate the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> But don't worry, I'm still technically a member until it's gone lol.


Forgive me, but you'd rather spend $139.99 for an old PSU that's built on an old platform that probably has close to 300W more than you'll ever need when you could instead spend just $84.99 before shipping after a mail-in rebate for the 750W G2? It's a much newer platform and is still overkill for your needs. If you don't use the rebate, then it's still only $104.99. Or, $109.99 shipped from Amazon. It's money in your pocket. It's up to you. If it were me, then I'd get the 750W G2 instead.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Forgive me, but you'd rather spend $139.99 for an old PSU that's built on an old platform that probably has close to 300W more than you'll ever need when you could instead spend just $84.99 before shipping after a mail-in rebate for the 750W G2? It's a much newer platform and is still overkill for your needs. If you don't use the rebate, then it's still only $104.99. Or, $109.99 shipped from Amazon.


NCIX charges an arm and a leg for shipping, and taxed. Amazon is still taxed, and it's only $30 more. I want a very quiet PSU, and I know 100% that I can get it from the AX860. I know it's older, but I never had any problems with it before. It's the first PSU I've had, so I'm staying biased toward it lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> NCIX charges an arm and a leg for shipping, and taxed. Amazon is still taxed, and it's only $30 more. I want a very quiet PSU, and I know 100% that I can get it from the AX860. I know it's older, but I never had any problems with it before. It's the first PSU I've had, so I'm staying biased toward it lol.


Ok. I'm relieved that you feel it's *only* $30 more. To me, that's a big chunk of cash. :/


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ok. I'm relieved that you feel it's *only* $30 more. To me, that's a big chunk of cash. :/


I know. It is more, but it's what I want. I want 860 again because I'm not sure if later down the road I want to maybe add a second card (not a TX, but if I do go with pascal). The 860 was perfect for me. I know it's more expensive, but I like corsair customer service (I do like EVGA too). But since I've already had experience with the AX860, I'll continue with it. And since they don't make it anymore, that means I could possibly get an upgrade if it dies







lol. (Totally kidding about that). I understand I'm losing money by going back to it, but it's what I want. You make mistakes, and you learn from it. I definately won't be making that kind of mistake again. Lol. But this time, I think I'm going to stay away from EVGA PSU's for now. Not forever... Just now. So many people told me the 1300 G2 was silent as can be. That was an outright lie lol.

Again, thanks for the help.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I know. It is more, but it's what I want. I want 860 again because I'm not sure if later down the road I want to maybe add a second card (not a TX, but if I do go with pascal). The 860 was perfect for me. I know it's more expensive, but I like corsair customer service (I do like EVGA too). But since I've already had experience with the AX860, I'll continue with it. And since they don't make it anymore, that means I could possibly get an upgrade if it dies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol. (Totally kidding about that). I understand I'm losing money by going back to it, but it's what I want. You make mistakes, and you learn from it. I definately won't be making that kind of mistake again. Lol. But this time, I think I'm going to stay away from EVGA PSU's for now. Not forever... Just now. So many people told me the 1300 G2 was silent as can be. That was an outright lie lol.
> 
> Again, thanks for the help.


Don't stay away from EVGA just because of this. Both the 1000W G2 and the 1300W G2 are VERY well-known to be very loud - at least by people who know what they're talking about. You will find that the vast majority of the people on this damn planet don't know ANYthing when it comes to PSUs. So it wasn't a lie, you were simply talking to an idiot.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Don't stay away from EVGA just because of this. Both the 1000W G2 and the 1300W G2 are VERY well-known to be very loud - at least by people who know what they're talking about. You will find that the vast majority of the people on this damn planet don't know ANYthing when it comes to PSUs. So it wasn't a lie, you were simply talking to an idiot.


Your making me second guess. How quiet are the 750 and 850 g2? What's the difference between p2? And they all have eco mode right? I may cancel the order for the AX860 lol.

Theres only a $10 price difference between the 750 and 850 (P2 and G2). I would rather go with the 850 for security. I'm running 2 pumps (maybe 3) and 20 fans + others My one TX will be running 1.274v and my 4770k at 1.315

The 850 P2 is like $20 cheaper than the G2. I think ill go with the 850P2?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Your making me second guess. How quiet are the 750 and 850 g2? What's the difference between p2? And they all have eco mode right? I may cancel the order for the AX860 lol.
> 
> Theres only a $10 price difference between the 750 and 850 (P2 and G2). I would rather go with the 850 for security. I'm running 2 pumps (maybe 3) and 20 fans + others My one TX will be running 1.274v and my 4770k at 1.315
> 
> The 850 P2 is like $20 cheaper than the G2. I think ill go with the 850P2?


The G2/P2/T2 series is all the Super Flower Leadex - pretty much identical except for how much power the PSU will pull from the wall to deliver the same amount of power. Other than that, the quality is the same and the quality of the power is the same.

Anyway, now you're seeing what I was saying.  These PSUs have ECO Mode while the 1000W and 1300W G2 PSUs don't.

If you stay with just the one video card, then it's a waste of money to get the 850W PSU - but it's your money.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The G2/P2/T2 series is all the Super Flower Leadex - pretty much identical except for how much power the PSU will pull from the wall to deliver the same amount of power. Other than that, the quality is the same and the quality of the power is the same.
> 
> Anyway, now you're seeing what I was saying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These PSUs have ECO Mode while the 1000W and 1300W G2 PSUs don't.
> 
> If you stay with just the one video card, then it's a waste of money to get the 850W PSU - but it's your money.


I think ill stay with the P2 series. I want that Platinum lol. Theres only a $10 difference between 750 P2 and 850 P2. What would you do?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I think ill stay with the P2 series. I want that Platinum lol. Theres only a $10 difference between 750 P2 and 850 P2. What would you do?


I'd go with the one that costs less. hehe


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'd go with the one that costs less. hehe


And 750 would be enough for my one Titan X modded bios?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> And 750 would be enough for my one Titan X modded bios?


I would hope so. That's a lot of power for one card and a mainstream CPU that's been overclocked.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I would hope so. That's a lot of power for one card and a mainstream CPU that's been overclocked.


LOL!!! Well the 850 G2 is out of the question becase its the most expensive.

Is the 850 P2 worth $10 more than the 750 P2, or $25 more than the 750 G2?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> LOL!!! Well the 850 G2 is out of the question becase its the most expensive.
> 
> Is the 850 P2 worth $10 more than the 750 P2, or $25 more than the 750 G2?


I think the P2 would be worth it for me because I live at my computer, so in the extreme long-run, it would likely pay the difference on its own due to pulling slightly less power from the wall outlet.

If the only thing cared about though is the quality of the PSU and the quality of the power it delivers, then it's definitely not worth it in the least bit.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think the P2 would be worth it for me because I live at my computer, so in the extreme long-run, it would likely pay the difference on its own due to pulling slightly less power from the wall outlet.
> 
> If the only thing cared about though is the quality of the PSU and the quality of the power it delivers, then it's definitely not worth it in the least bit.


Okay, so I finally made a decision. I went with the 850 P2 over the 750 G2/P2. My main reason was not the money, but the fact that I'm running one Titan X at 1.274v. If I remember correctly, I remember one user in the TX club say that he was running short on his 750 G2. I just want to be on the safe side and get 100 more watts. plus I'm running the pumps and fans, etc. After the rebate and tax (surprisingly free shipping) itll come to $119.74. I'm perfectly fine with that.

Thanks again for all your help. Now I just sure hope that this has a quiet fan lol


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Okay, so I finally made a decision. I went with the 850 P2 over the 750 G2/P2. My main reason was not the money, but the fact that I'm running one Titan X at 1.274v. If I remember correctly, I remember one user in the TX club say that he was running short on his 750 G2. I just want to be on the safe side and get 100 more watts. plus I'm running the pumps and fans, etc. After the rebate and tax (surprisingly free shipping) itll come to $119.74. I'm perfectly fine with that.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help. Now I just sure hope that this has a quiet fan lol


I wonder if that guy was going by what his PSU was pulling from the wall outlet.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I wonder if that guy was going by what his PSU was pulling from the wall outlet.


Its possible, but id rather be on the safe side. $27 for an extra 100w may come in handy, whether its a year from now, or 5. lol. 750 may have been fine, but I don't want to take that risk. I'm also running a lot more variables than he is.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> I'm also running a lot more variables than he is.


Yeah, show-off. hehe

This should be a fun new toy. It'll probably leave you more impressed with it than the AX860 did.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, show-off. hehe
> 
> This should be a fun new toy. It'll probably leave you more impressed with it than the AX860 did.


Lol, I just wanted to make sure my pumps and fans would be okay, while having the volt modded TX. Just to be safe.


----------



## fyzzz

I can benchmark my 2x R9 290's at 1260/1500 and my i5 4690k at 5.0/1.45v with no problem on my supernova 850 g2.


----------



## SteezyTN

I'm back in the club











I sold my 1300 G2, and it's already on its way to its new owner


----------



## shilka

Removed your name from the G2 listed and moved it to the P2 list.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Removed your name from the G2 listed and moved it to the P2 list.


Thanks


----------



## Wenty

Add me to the list of 850 G2


----------



## duganator

Put me in coach. Just got a 1300g2. Any suggestions on custom sleeved cables? Just looking to go all white for around $100 if possible


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> 
> Put me in coach. Just got a 1300g2. Any suggestions on custom sleeved cables? Just looking to go all white for around $100 if possible


1300 G2 and one GPU? Please tell me you are adding a second (or third).


----------



## duganator

Lol. I got a really good deal and I'm planning on ruining an unlocked 10 core when they come out and two either ti or 1080
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> 1300 G2 and one GPU? Please tell me you are adding a second (or third).


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Lol. I got a really good deal and I'm planning on ruining an unlocked 10 core when they come out and two either ti or 1080


Yeah the 1300 G2 has some good prices, even used. I just sold mine to downgrade to the50 P2. The fan on the 1300 G2 was just too loud for me.


----------



## duganator

My h100I is already loud so i don't really hear it. My current power usage is probably only 450-500 with a 10 core xeon and a 970
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Yeah the 1300 G2 has some good prices, even used. I just sold mine to downgrade to the50 P2. The fan on the 1300 G2 was just too loud for me.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> My h100I is already loud so i don't really hear it. My current power usage is probably only 450-500 with a 10 core xeon and a 970


I really did enjoy that PSU. It was really great, except the noise.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all incoming stupid question. I somehow lost the AC cord to my EVGA P2 750 watt. I believe I have an old AC cord from an EVGA G2 1000 watt laying around in a box of old hardware, cables etc. Is it incorrect to assume all these cables are the same 120V and thus interchangeable?

It won't be plugged into a wall outlet direct as I use a battery backup...if that matters which it probably doesn't.


----------



## shilka

Does not matter the least which cable you use.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Does not matter the least which cable you use.


I thought so just had a bad luck Brian (my name is Brian too) year...also couldn't have asked for a better person to answer my question. Thanks Shilka you made me a Superflower fan in the first place.


----------



## TwoCables

It matters:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It matters:
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers


Sorry I meant 120V PSU cables(namely from the same vendor and in this case OEM). The cable I have from the 1000watt G2 fits the only reason I had pause was because this unit is lower wattage and it is a 80 Platinum unit and was unsure if there was a difference. I would assume the only difference is the actual unit not the cable but I am not much of a power guy.

Thanks for the reference info TwoCables however as I love to learn new things!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Sorry I meant 120V PSU cables(namely from the same vendor and in this case OEM). The cable I have from the 1000watt G2 fits the only reason I had pause was because this unit is lower wattage and it is a 80 Platinum unit and was unsure if there was a difference. I would assume the only difference is the actual unit not the cable but I am not much of a power guy.
> 
> Thanks for the reference info TwoCables however as I love to learn new things!


I'm not sure why you're telling me that you meant 120V PSU cables. Look at the chart. Do you see any that look familiar? You will. Have a look at the 7th one down, C13/C14.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm not sure why you're telling me that you meant 120V PSU cables. Look at the chart. Do you see any that look familiar? You will.


Internal PC PSU cables. Looking at the list there are laptop, appliance cables etc. Am I missing something? Again I am not much of a power guy.

I do see a few that look similar but can you elaborate on my specific situation? Any reason that a cable from my EVGA 1000 watt G2 would be problematic in a lower wattage 750 watt P2?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Internal PC PSU cables. Looking at the list there are laptop, appliance cables etc. Am I missing something? Again I am not much of a power guy.


Internal? Ok, so you mean the modular cables (you don't have to be a "power guy" to know that they're called "modular cables" - just look at what PSU you have). Those usually cannot be used interchangeably due to differences in pin-outs.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Internal? Ok, so you mean the modular cables. Those usually cannot be used interchangeably due to differences in pin-outs.


Sorry I meant a PSU for a Desktop PC but the exterior cable that goes from the PSU to the outlet/surge protecter/battery backup. So not a power brick for a laptop or an appliance.


----------



## TwoCables

An AC power cable is not an internal cable. We aren't on the same page.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Sorry I meant a PSU for a Desktop PC but the exterior cable that goes from the PSU to the outlet/surge protecter/battery backup. So not a power brick for a laptop or an appliance.


lol I know what kind of computers these two PSUs are used for!

Again, look at the chart. Do you see any that look familiar? How about the one for C13/C14? Both are the same for both PSUs? If so, then you're good. If not, then you're not. This is very simple, believe it or not.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> An AC power cable is not an internal cable. We aren't on the same page.


Ok remove the word internal and replace it with power brick. For instance my xbox one and laptop have power bricks with connectors that obviously won't be interchangeable. I am specifically talking about power supplies in this case EVGA, superflower OEMs and the AC cord they use.


----------



## TwoCables

Dude. Look at the chart to find the cables. Are they both the same cable on the chart? That's all you need to worry about. I think you're making this out to be far more difficult and complex than it really is.

There are some very high-powered PSUs that use different power cables. So, all I'm trying to say is, no, it matters. You have to watch which cable you have.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Dude. Look at the chart to find the cables. Are they both the same cable on the chart? That's all you need to worry about. I think you're making this out to be far more difficult and complex than it really is.


I understand that but how do I identify the cable type EVGA uses to see if they are the same? I am not seeing any of these markings on the cable I have.


----------



## TwoCables

Just look. You can compare the appearance. It's actually very easy. The chart has nice depictions of the cables. All you have to do is look at the Diagram column.

The main reason I'm even mentioning this is so that we don't have people thinking that ALL PSUS ON THE MARKET use the same power cable. Some use the C19/C20, which is a badass cable for PSUs: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:IEC_60320_C19.svg


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Just look. You can compare the appearance. It's actually very easy. The chart has nice depictions of the cables.


Def the same then as both appear to be the ones you mentioned. Every PSU I have ever bought has used this same C13/C14....are there any that use something else that you know off the cuff?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Def the same then as both appear to be the ones you mentioned. Every PSU I have ever bought has used this same C13/C14....are there any that use something else that you know off the cuff?


Yeah, higher powered PSUs. Some use the one with the C19/C20 connectors.

I just didn't want anyone to see your question and go, "Oh, ok, so absolutely every single PSU on the market uses the same cable". That would be a mistake to think that. Knowledge is very empowering. 

So anyway, as you can see, there are really only two types of cables being used right now. The most common by far is the one you have.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, higher powered PSUs. Some use the one with the C19/C20 connectors.
> 
> I just didn't want anyone to see your question and go, "Oh, ok, so absolutely every single PSU on the market uses the same cable". That would be a mistake to think that. Knowledge is very empowering.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So anyway, as you can see, there are really only two types of cables being used right now. The most common by far is the one you have.


I see, thanks for the clarification and assistance. Much appreciated


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I see, thanks for the clarification and assistance. Much appreciated


You're very welcome!


----------



## Mega Man

Just to add I have to throw in a few words. Be careful just because it fits does not mean you should use it sometime how tiny the wires are is scarry.

It should have a wire size stamped on it 14ga is good up to 15a, 12ga 20a

Just to keep in mind


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just to add I have to throw in a few words. Be careful just because it fits does not mean you should use it sometime how tiny the wires are is scarry.
> 
> It should have a wire size stamped on it 14ga is good up to 15a, 12ga 20a
> 
> Just to keep in mind


Sort of. Look here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers

There are currently two PSU cables in use that I have seen so far:

This one: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:IEC_60320_C13.svg

And this one: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:IEC_60320_C19.svg

The C19 is mostly used on the most powerful PSUs while the C13 cable is used on all others. All C13s are the same and all C19s are the same, except for things like length and color.


----------



## Mega Man

I know what you are talking about. I am talking about wire ga. C13/14 C19 and 20
Some of the connectors that came with my monitors were like 18ga. Not good to be using then in a 1kw psu ( again not directed at this person, just people in general )

I love IEC connectors I wish we could use the power strips like they do in data centers but I am not willing to pay the premium..


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I know what you are talking about. I am talking about wire ga. C13/14 C19 and 20
> Some of the connectors that came with my monitors were like 18ga. Not good to be using then in a 1kw psu ( again not directed at this person, just people in general )
> 
> I love IEC connectors I wish we could use the power strips like they do in data centers but I am not willing to pay the premium..


I'm confused by what you're saying. It seems to me that all C13 cables have the same wire gauge and all C19s do too. Am I missing something?


----------



## Mega Man

No they don't.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No they don't.


Ok, well PSU cables then.


----------



## Mega Man

like i said, for general people, just verify the cables ( i nt he us ) are at least 14ga ! it should be stamped or printed on the wire


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> like i said, for general people, just verify the cables ( i nt he us ) are at least 14ga ! it should be stamped or printed on the wire


I'm glad you're saying this because like you said, someone might be like, "oh, so then I can use my monitor's C13 cable".


----------



## duganator

Finally got around to getting custom cables. In other news, my cell phone camera sucks.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> 
> Finally got around to getting custom cables. In other news, my cell phone camera sucks.


Maybe so, but that's beautiful man. It's very nice.


----------



## duganator

Thanks for the kind words. There's the whole setup currently
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Maybe so, but that's beautiful man. It's very nice.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duganator*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words. There's the whole setup currently


You're welcome.

I like where you keep your computer; you get to look at your beautiful rig any time you want. You even have a Dodge Viper sitting on it! It looks like it's identical to a red one that I have. I kept mine in the retail store display box for some reason. lol


----------



## dilster97

SuperNOVA 850G2 has survived at up to 1030W of overdraw. Or well the leccy meter says that anyway

Running both GTX 980s through GPUPI: http://hwbot.org/submission/3206517_dildorthedecent_gpupi___1b_2x_geforce_gtx_980_12sec_970ms

*Use different names for some sites btw so don't freak out*


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> SuperNOVA 850G2 has survived at up to 1030W of overdraw. Or well the leccy meter says that anyway
> 
> Running both GTX 980s through GPUPI: http://hwbot.org/submission/3206517_dildorthedecent_gpupi___1b_2x_geforce_gtx_980_12sec_970ms
> 
> *Use different names for some sites btw so don't freak out*


A wall meter? If it was 1030W on a wall meter, then the actual power draw being pulled out of the PSU was closer to about 925-930W. That's still under the 850W G2's absolute peak capacity.


----------



## Feyris

Anyone with Superflowers plat/goldens cross-used Evga G2/P2 Cables from cable mods to replace entire set? I really want to mix things up.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Anyone with Superflowers plat/goldens cross-used Evga G2/P2 Cables from cable mods to replace entire set? I really want to mix things up.


CableMod makes custom cables now so why not have a set made for the Leadex?
Yes its going to cost more but its going to be faster and less work then taking about two sets of cables and put them together.


----------



## dilster97

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> A wall meter? If it was 1030W on a wall meter, then the actual power draw being pulled out of the PSU was closer to about 925-930W. That's still under the 850W G2's absolute peak capacity.


What would the absolute peak be anyway?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dilster97*
> 
> What would the absolute peak be anyway?


I'm not sure, but high-end PSUs always have a peak that's always roughly 100-150W more than the continuous rating, which is the advertised capacity. Some PSUs can go even higher than 150W above the continuous capacity.


----------



## hiarc

I might as well join more clubs.


----------



## hiarc

Maybe, might... maybe?


----------



## shilka

You already are added if you have not seen.


----------



## Thoth420

I have 3 EVGA PSU. 750 Watt P2(currently in use), 850 Watt G2(7 months moderate usage reboxed for a future HTPC gaming build) and a 1000 Watt G2 (first one I bought and laying around in case I ever make a dual card setup...also lightly used). Can I has join?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I have 3 EVGA PSU. 750 Watt P2(currently in use), 850 Watt G2(7 months moderate usage reboxed for a future HTPC gaming build) and a 1000 Watt G2 (first one I bought and laying around in case I ever make a dual card setup...also lightly used). Can I has join?


Not without pictures as stated in the second post.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Not without pictures as stated in the second post.


Will this cut it for now? The other 2 are buried in one of many boxes and if you see what case I am using there is no way to take a pic of the unit inside at the moment. Running the EVGA white sleeved kit! I love these PSUs but the stock cables are fugly...but not as bad as those new flat cables like the Corsair RM and RMi uses.

Edit: Sorry for delayed photo my S4 is a piece of unrooted crap...


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You already are added if you have not seen.


Sorry didn't mean it as a follow up towards you. I should have quoted MM as it was a reply to him.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Sorry didn't mean it as a follow up towards you. I should have quoted MM as it was a reply to him.


Derp









Shilka was the person who got me into Superflower PSUs in the first place so I guess that makes sense been using em for over a year now.

Great units and I may go with a different chassis so I might have to find a white version or get the paint out. I know Leadex had one a while back but last I checked none where white.


----------



## JackCY

SF had and still do have white versions, EVGA never did.
Proof from a shop: http://www.tiphardware.cz/super-flower-leadex-80plus-platinum-psu-white-1000-watt.html


----------



## LandonAaron

I have an Evga G2 1000W PSU, and the fan on it constantly makes a loud clicking noise. I purchased the PSU off EBAY over a year ago, so no chance of return or warranty repair. I have decided to replace the fan in the PSU and hopefully fix this issue. I order a Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 to use as my replacement fan. It is a PWM fan and I want to connect it directly to my motherboard, instead of the PSU's fan controller. That way I can monitor and control the fan's speed from my mobo software. Will the PSU give me any issues, like refusing to turn on or operate a full capacity if it doesn't detect a fan connected to it?


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an Evga G2 1000W PSU, and the fan on it constantly makes a loud clicking noise. I purchased the PSU off EBAY over a year ago, so no chance of return or warranty repair. I have decided to replace the fan in the PSU and hopefully fix this issue. I order a Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 to use as my replacement fan. It is a PWM fan and I want to connect it directly to my motherboard, instead of the PSU's fan controller. That way I can monitor and control the fan's speed from my mobo software. Will the PSU give me any issues, like refusing to turn on or operate a full capacity if it doesn't detect a fan connected to it?


You can guest RMA, check here:
*
http://www.evga.com/support/guestregister.asp*


----------



## Triggah

Oh another club for me to join XD.. I own a supernova g2 750W. Best psu ever owned.


----------



## JackCY

I don't think the PSU fan controller detects if fan is connected, most if not all have a hybrid mode too even though it may not be enabled by default on all, you can try enabling it. If it is so smart and refuses to work without a fan you can put in a 1kOhm resistor instead of the fan, which will make it draw 12mA and think there is a fan connected but I highly doubt such measure is needed.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> SF had and still do have white versions, EVGA never did.
> Proof from a shop: http://www.tiphardware.cz/super-flower-leadex-80plus-platinum-psu-white-1000-watt.html


I know about the Leadex White just didn't know any were still available....hrm


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> SF had and still do have white versions, EVGA never did.
> Proof from a shop: http://www.tiphardware.cz/super-flower-leadex-80plus-platinum-psu-white-1000-watt.html


Just not in the US. I imported mine from China in one of my trips
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I have an Evga G2 1000W PSU, and the fan on it constantly makes a loud clicking noise. I purchased the PSU off EBAY over a year ago, so no chance of return or warranty repair. I have decided to replace the fan in the PSU and hopefully fix this issue. I order a Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 to use as my replacement fan. It is a PWM fan and I want to connect it directly to my motherboard, instead of the PSU's fan controller. That way I can monitor and control the fan's speed from my mobo software. Will the PSU give me any issues, like refusing to turn on or operate a full capacity if it doesn't detect a fan connected to it?


Iirc EVGA does warranty via serial number. Worth a shot.

I would not control the fan. How will you know when the psu is getting warm?


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just not in the US. I imported mine from China in one of my trips
> Iirc EVGA does warranty via serial number. Worth a shot.
> 
> I would not control the fan. How will you know when the psu is getting warm?


Well, I was just going to set a conservative fan profile and go off of the motherboard temp. I want to be able to control the fan because sometime the difference of just 100 RPM or so can noticeably change the sound profile, and I figure as long as I don't go under 1000RPM I should be pretty safe. I do have a single input for a thermal probe on my mobo, but I am currently using that to monitor the water temps in my loop. I guess I could use it to monitor the PSU, until I get a good idea of how the new fan performs, and then switch back to using it for the water loop. What is considered the max safe temperature for a PSU?

I looked into the guest registration/warranty thing the previous poster linked, and apparently I actually could RMA it. I think I will just go ahead with my plan though, as I already have the fan, and don't want to be without my computer for the amount of time an RMA would take.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I don't think the PSU fan controller detects if fan is connected, most if not all have a hybrid mode too even though it may not be enabled by default on all, you can try enabling it. If it is so smart and refuses to work without a fan you can put in a 1kOhm resistor instead of the fan, which will make it draw 12mA and think there is a fan connected but I highly doubt such measure is needed.


Do you know how I would go about activating the hybrid mode? The next PSU I buy will definitely have this feature


----------



## Mega Man

1 iirc evga will drop ship you a psu ( maybe not though )

2 flip the switch !


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Well, I was just going to set a conservative fan profile and go off of the motherboard temp. I want to be able to control the fan because sometime the difference of just 100 RPM or so can noticeably change the sound profile, and I figure as long as I don't go under 1000RPM I should be pretty safe. I do have a single input for a thermal probe on my mobo, but I am currently using that to monitor the water temps in my loop. I guess I could use it to monitor the PSU, until I get a good idea of how the new fan performs, and then switch back to using it for the water loop. What is considered the max safe temperature for a PSU?
> 
> I looked into the guest registration/warranty thing the previous poster linked, and apparently I actually could RMA it. I think I will just go ahead with my plan though, as I already have the fan, and don't want to be without my computer for the amount of time an RMA would take.
> Do you know how I would go about activating the hybrid mode? The next PSU I buy will definitely have this feature


Most of the EVGA PSUs have the hybrid mode, it's only the first they released from the Leadex series that didn't have it like 1300 G2 and one other I think, pictures of the controllers looked the same to me but I don't think anyone ever posted back about enabling the mod, most just sold the PSU and bought a 1200 G2/P2 instead or something.
The hybrid ones have two connectors on the controller, one for fan and one for the hybrid on/off switch. The ones without the hybrid fan mode have IMHO the same controller and miss the hybrid switch connector so you could just solder in a wire there to enable it or solder in a switch to have an easy on/off for the hybrid mode. Check TPU pictures or gallery here.

When buying a new PSU definitely get on of those that have the hybrid mode or get RMx/i. You don't need to do anything on new ones, it's just a trick that should IMHO work on the old ones without hybrid mod as a standard feature.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triggah*
> 
> Oh another club for me to join XD.. I own a supernova g2 750W. Best psu ever owned.


Club rules
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Most of the EVGA PSUs have the hybrid mode, it's only the first they released from the Leadex series that didn't have it like 1300 G2 and one other I think, pictures of the controllers looked the same to me but I don't think anyone ever posted back about enabling the mod, most just sold the PSU and bought a 1200 G2/P2 instead or something.
> The hybrid ones have two connectors on the controller, one for fan and one for the hybrid on/off switch. The ones without the hybrid fan mode have IMHO the same controller and miss the hybrid switch connector so you could just solder in a wire there to enable it or solder in a switch to have an easy on/off for the hybrid mode. Check TPU pictures or gallery here.
> 
> When buying a new PSU definitely get on of those that have the hybrid mode or get RMx/i. You don't need to do anything on new ones, it's just a trick that should IMHO work on the old ones without hybrid mod as a standard feature.


Only the G2 1000/1300/1600 lack the hybrid fan mode all the other G2/P2/T2 models have hybrid fan mode.


----------



## Mega Man

One of my leadex died :/ i have been dealing with random shutoff.. been trying to locate the problem finally did.. I can tap the housing and duplicate the issue.

Got to decide if it is still under warranty if it is worth having it done ( gotta take it back to China ) I may have to fix it myself....


----------



## Mystriss

That's a tough call, void warranty or fix what sounds like just a loose connection... I'd have to factor in downtime and costs to the equation to help figure out which to go with myself.


----------



## Mega Man

already got it back up and running, i wont tell you how many pc parts i have but still debating


----------



## Mystriss

I can't talk about PC parts, I've taken over half the game room with boxes myself. The kids been whining that he can't play pool with his friends for years now hahaha


----------



## Mega Man

I'll list a few of my psus.

2 1000 platinum leadex
3 Lepa g1600
2 (seasonic) xfx 1250w
1 seasonic x750
1 seasonic x660
.....
And more
EDIT
so i just noticed i think either superflower is false advertising ( i doubt but possible ) or they updated their unit after the johnny guru review, possibly in response to it ??

@Oklahoma Wolf?
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=340

from that review
second and third pics



this is my box ( slightly newer i purchased mine in 2014 )


you can see they are now advertising 100% nippon cheni-con caps !


----------



## LostParticle

Hey guys, just a simple question (which, most probably, has been already answered): can I open my EVGA SuperNova 750 G2 to clean it better? As I am looking at it I do not think this is possible, because to get it opened it requires the removal of the 4 outer screws, and this voids the warranty... Right?


----------



## Mega Man

you can, but do you want a warranty ? if the answer is yes, then no you dont want to open it


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey guys, just a simple question (which, most probably, has been already answered): can I open my EVGA SuperNova 750 G2 to clean it better? As I am looking at it I do not think this is possible, because to get it opened it requires the removal of the 4 outer screws, and this voids the warranty... Right?


Why not use a can of compressed air?


----------



## LostParticle

Of course I want the warranty! It is just one year old, if I recall correctly!

So, what is the best way to clean it then? Sucking + blowing it with my vacuum cleaner? (and another blower I own)?

Shilka, yeah I used my vacuum cleaner today, a very nice Nilfisk! I sucked it and blew it for quite some time! Lots of dust came out of it! I think I kept it inside my chassis for more than a year or so, anyway, first time I've cleaned it today, I think! My mistake, I'll never leave it like that again, even though from the outside it looked really clean! Anyway...so, that's all I can do?

PS:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Now I use my Corsair AX 760 on an open-air rig so I have it next to me as I type. Wish my EVGA had this system for the fan, this top I mean, because it seems to me that I can take out the fan from my AX760 and clean it, without voiding Corsair's Warranty.


----------



## JackCY

#1 enable hybrid fan
#2 if by any chance that thing decides to spin the fan have the intake covered with a dust filter
#3 never clean the PSU


----------



## jopy

the latest revision for leadex 650 gold,
they've changed all the connectors to black now?
got mine without those funky blue and red connectors for mb and pci-e


----------



## Mega Man

Nice. The pcie wires are black too?


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Nice. The pcie wires are black too?


yup


----------



## shilka

Looks much better now if you ask me.


----------



## Mega Man

What? That is EVGA?

They are using superflower connectors!

Can I get a shot of the whole psu please!

I may need to buy one


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What? That is EVGA?
> 
> They are using superflower connectors!
> 
> Can I get a shot of the whole psu please!
> 
> I may need to buy one


superflower. not evga.


----------



## Mega Man

derp/....

some reason i read EVGA

now if only they would sell in the us


----------



## Thoth420

I wish....not that EVGA is a bad company in fact they are one of the best to deal with. I am just not a fan of the red GPU cables on the EVGA and it's charcoal look.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I wish....not that EVGA is a bad company in fact they are one of the best to deal with. I am just not a fan of the red GPU cables on the EVGA and it's charcoal look.


Only the old SuperNova units have red cables as far as i am aware.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Only the old SuperNova units have red cables as far as i am aware.


Ah do tell....well at least there was a white unit option. Thanks for the info though.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Ah do tell....well at least there was a white unit option. Thanks for the info though.


Only the Super Flower Leadex comes in white the EVGA SuperNova units are black only.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Only the Super Flower Leadex comes in white the EVGA SuperNova units are black only.


That is what I was saying. My rig theme primary color is white so I had to find a case with a PSU sheathe to hide the EVGA unit as it would stand out like a sore thumb.
I couldn't get my hands on one of the Super Flower here in the states.


----------



## shilka

The NZXT HALE 90 V2 is white if you can dig one up somewhere.
The Fractal Design Newton R3 1000 watt also has a white version.


----------



## Mega Man

Or

Import from China like I did


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I wish....not that EVGA is a bad company in fact they are one of the best to deal with. I am just not a fan of the red GPU cables on the EVGA and it's charcoal look.


Check reviews only the first EVGA PSUs had red PCIe, all recent have all black.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> That is what I was saying. My rig theme primary color is white so I had to find a case with a PSU sheathe to hide the EVGA unit as it would stand out like a sore thumb.
> I couldn't get my hands on one of the Super Flower here in the states.


Import SF from EU or Asia, AU, ...
Otherwise a white spray can or white plastidip ain't that expensive either.


----------



## Cyb3r

my supernova had black cables


----------



## Thoth420

Glad to see they switched that out.

I plan on using some paint on it if I use a chassis that doesn't hide the PSU.


----------



## Boost240

I'm in!


----------



## TUFinside

I just ordered the EVGA SuperNOVA 750P2 with the ref number 220-P2-0750-X3, but i noticed there is also a ref with 220-P2-0750-X2, so what is the difference ? just a revision ?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> I just ordered the EVGA SuperNOVA 750P2 with the ref number 220-P2-0750-X3, but i noticed there is also a ref with 220-P2-0750-X2, so what is the difference ? just a revision ?


The power cord, one is for UK, the other one for the rest of EU.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The power cord, one is for UK, the other one for the rest of EU.


Dumb me !







did i order the good one ? (not in the UK)

Edit: i made the mistake...







, mail sent to EVGA.


----------



## Kimir

If you have a power cord laying around, you should be fine.


----------



## TUFinside

Thank you, i asked EVGA to modify the order though. Order canceled and redone, 220-P2-0750-X2 on its way ! yay !

+1 rep to Kimir


----------



## sebna

Hi Guys,

Two quick questions:

1. Has anybody ventured into replacing stock fan on P2 series for something more civilized?

2. I was going through the graphs from PowerUp test and they do not match-up (for 1000W unit). Because of it they do not make much sense, unless I am missing something.

For P2-1000 those two are published:










From the above we can read that the fan only kicks in at 500W load and goes very loud very quickly.

But from below picture we can read that the fan kicks-in in fact at 300W - 309W depending on cross load.










While for P2-1200 PSU the graphs do match up nicely:


















From above we can read that the fan will kick in at around 375W depending on the cross load and it is same on both graphs.

It is probably a mistake in graphs for P2-1000 and I would imagine that fan kicks in for it at 300W... what do you think about it? Is it a mistake or am I missing something. If you think I am wrong in my interpretation please explain why you think so.

Cheers


----------



## SteezyTN

After reading your previous post about this, I don't see a need in going with what you are doing. Just because one review shows that it doesn't match up with what it says it does, doesn't mean it's right. You're reading seems completely illogical. Those fans are completely quiet, even when they do turn on. THIS is coming from a guy who who complained about the 1300 G2 fan speed. After selling my second Titan X and going with an 850 P2, that fan is so dang quiet. I could've gone with a 750 P2 but for only $10 more I decided to get the 850 version. But if you want to spend an extra $100 for a larger power supply that will 99.99% sound the same as the lower end version, by all means, go ahead


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Two quick questions:
> 
> 1. Has anybody ventured into replacing stock fan on P2 series for something more civilized?
> 
> 2. I was going through the graphs from PowerUp test and they do not match-up (for 1000W unit). Because of it they do not make much sense, unless I am missing something.
> 
> For P2-1000 those two are published:
> 
> From the above we can read that the fan only kicks in at 500W load and goes very loud very quickly.
> 
> But from below picture we can read that the fan kicks-in in fact at 300W - 309W depending on cross load.
> 
> While for P2-1200 PSU the graphs do match up nicely:
> 
> From above we can read that the fan will kick in at around 375W depending on the cross load and it is same on both graphs.
> 
> It is probably a mistake in graphs for P2-1000 and I would imagine that fan kicks in for it at 300W... what do you think about it? Is it a mistake or am I missing something. If you think I am wrong in my interpretation please explain why you think so.
> 
> Cheers


Learn to read the reviews? They test at inhuman ambient temperatures of 35-50C, I don't know about you but I certainly can't live in ambient temperature 30C+.
The fans are fine and spin as needed if you still don't like them you can always mod or replace them.

If you don't like either you can get the Corsair RMx/i that have slower speed fans and cook the PSU much more with the fan curve, actually the curve is kinda the same but the fans don't spin fast at all and as a result the PSU gets cooked much more.


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> *Learn to read the reviews? They test at inhuman ambient temperatures of 35-50C*, I don't know about you but I certainly can't live in ambient temperature 30C+.
> The fans are fine and spin as needed if you still don't like them you can always mod or replace them.
> 
> If you don't like either you can get the Corsair RMx/i that have slower speed fans and cook the PSU much more with the fan curve, actually the curve is kinda the same but the fans don't spin fast at all and as a result the PSU gets cooked much more.


I am sorry but what that has to do with my question? Have you actually read and understood what am I asking about? It certainly does not seems so...

The problem I am having with those graphs is that one shows that fan on 1000W unit spins at 500W and other that at 300W (for same unit) that is quite a gap, I think we can all agree on it.

If it would be true that the fan spins at 500W then it is perfect I buy cheaper of the two PSUs as my system will not draw 500W so PSU will remain silent. But if the other graphs is true and it spins at 300W which is border line of my system then I will probably prefer 1200W unit which spins at 375 and should keep my system quieter by one fan... I work with fanless, completely passive PCs normally so I like my gaming PC to be as close to silent as possible so if I can go for hybrid fanless operating PSU operating all the time in fan less mode then I will do it. Why not?

Money is not the problem. But as you see because of contradicting info from those slides it is hard to establish if 1000 or 1200W unit will spin its fans later into the load.

I am not looking for advice on what kind of wattage or price is reasonable for my build.

Hope that helps to understand what I am asking about.

Thanks guys


----------



## JackCY

You have 1 question there asking if someone opened the PSU to replace the fan. Yes I bet some did and it's very simple you can see it in every other review XD

One graph if 100% in a hot box, that's the first line graph.
The second graph is a automated loader measurement where it goes trough like 1000 combinations to create the 2D surface graph, I don't know anymore if their robot goes first horizontally or vertically to make the 2D but that means the fan can turn on sooner and stay on depending on how you measure.
Overall the fans don't spin up until about 50% load at 20C ambient, you can check the EVGA specs or SF specs for it, for my 850 G2 it's 45C spin down, 55C spin up at T1 and 60C down and 65C up for T2.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Two quick questions:
> 
> 1. Has anybody ventured into replacing stock fan on P2 series for something more civilized?
> 
> 2. I was going through the graphs from PowerUp test and they do not match-up (for 1000W unit). Because of it they do not make much sense, unless I am missing something.
> 
> For P2-1000 those two are published:
> 
> From the above we can read that the fan only kicks in at 500W load and goes very loud very quickly.
> 
> But from below picture we can read that the fan kicks-in in fact at 300W - 309W depending on cross load.
> 
> While for P2-1200 PSU the graphs do match up nicely:
> 
> From above we can read that the fan will kick in at around 375W depending on the cross load and it is same on both graphs.
> 
> It is probably a mistake in graphs for P2-1000 and I would imagine that fan kicks in for it at 300W... what do you think about it? Is it a mistake or am I missing something. If you think I am wrong in my interpretation please explain why you think so.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Learn to read the reviews? They test at inhuman ambient temperatures of 35-50C, I don't know about you but I certainly can't live in ambient temperature 30C+.
> The fans are fine and spin as needed if you still don't like them you can always mod or replace them.
> 
> If you don't like either you can get the Corsair RMx/i that have slower speed fans and cook the PSU much more with the fan curve, actually the curve is kinda the same but the fans don't spin fast at all and as a result the PSU gets cooked much more.
Click to expand...

just a fyi 35-50c is quite common ! you have to realize that is the temp inside the psu/ and your pc case most average people ( air cooling + poor airflow ) the inside of the pc is quite warm !


----------



## JackCY

I think they measure some of those in a hotbox, I run mine passive and it never gets hot anywhere not even the top side hidden in the case. Warm sure but not hot. Internal temperatures in PSU sure in that range 40C I guess but intake from bottom is 20C room temp. So the hot air flows slowly out the rear and fresh colder air flows slowly from the bottom into the PSU.

For my 850 G2 I know about these two that show the temp data, TPU which has only hotbox I think and Anandtech that has both cold and hot:

*Cold:*


*Hot:*


My experience so far is that it behaves like the Anandtech cold graph, not like the Anand hot nor like the TPU hot.
But sure if someone lives in an oven/sauna/unbearably hot places around the Equator then look at the hot graphs, in such a case I would rather buy an AC then a new PSU though.


----------



## Metros

Hello

Would like some help, not sure if I am having problems with my EVGA 1600w T2 PSU

So even after hardware replacement, starting to get random restarts during Witcher 3, it has been fine for three months, even when doing stress tests for a long time. Witcher 3 was put on for 4 days, this is really strange

AIO replace
CPU replaced
RAM replaced
GPUs replaced
Motherboard replaced
No overclock on GPUs
Not a thermal problem (restarts can happen during Gwent, so low GPU usage)
Not installed anything different like drivers since the restarts happened (they started yesterday)
RAM has been tested

So now I am thinking, these are what has changed, although it took about 2 weeks for a problem to happen, PSU cable, power wall socket, fuss box, keyboard and mouse

I doubt it will be PSU, as it was fine for three months without any problems


----------



## Mega Man

Why do you think it is psu?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Would like some help, not sure if I am having problems with my EVGA 1600w T2 PSU
> 
> So even after hardware replacement, starting to get random restarts during Witcher 3, it has been fine for three months, even when doing stress tests for a long time. Witcher 3 was put on for 4 days, this is really strange
> 
> AIO replace
> CPU replaced
> RAM replaced
> GPUs replaced
> Motherboard replaced
> No overclock on GPUs
> Not a thermal problem (restarts can happen during Gwent, so low GPU usage)
> Not installed anything different like drivers since the restarts happened (they started yesterday)
> RAM has been tested
> 
> So now I am thinking, these are what has changed, although it took about 2 weeks for a problem to happen, PSU cable, power wall socket, fuss box, keyboard and mouse
> 
> I doubt it will be PSU, as it was fine for three months without any problems


you oc your cpu? does it happen on every game? it may be your install that's corrupt or a virus maybe? really doubt it's the PSU, I have a 1600 T2 with titan x cards and I really believe that thing can jumpstart my car so if anything is burnt out it would be what's plugged into it. I would say turn off turbo on cpu or turn off all power saving features like the c states or speedstep. your cable all snugged and none pinched?


----------



## Mega Man

Good news. Leadex warranty is easy. Even from us, however you have to pay international shipping both ways :/ but most companies won't even deal with you out of country of purchase so pretty impressed

Ironically still thinking of getting 2kw leadex and possibly a 850w.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why do you think it is psu?


Every other component has been replaced (apart from SSDs)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> you oc your cpu? does it happen on every game? it may be your install that's corrupt or a virus maybe? really doubt it's the PSU, I have a 1600 T2 with titan x cards and I really believe that thing can jumpstart my car so if anything is burnt out it would be what's plugged into it. I would say turn off turbo on cpu or turn off all power saving features like the c states or speedstep. your cable all snugged and none pinched?


Yeah, overclock is at 4.3Ghz, however there was a large amount of tests

Prime95 (49 hours) IBT (100 passes, 47 hours) Intel XTU (72 hours) Witcher 3 (120 hours) Assassins Creed (21 hours) Firestrike and Heaven. CPU was tested for both stock and overclock, the same amount of hours

CS GO is fine, Battlefront is fine, tested for 2 hours, Witcher 3 was fine for 70 hours, then it started to happen

Windows had a clean install, still happened

Only installed about four applications, so I doubt it will be a virus

It seems to happen during Witcher 3 during low GPU load, like when playing gwent or fast travel map. However it did not do it before so I am not sure why it only just started, nothing has changed

Thanks


----------



## Kimir

Coud be some degradation, check again if your OC is stable.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Coud be some degradation, check again if your OC is stable.


It happened before the three months of testing. Restarts and hard freezes, then the system changed location to another house and it stopped. Then I got the testing done without any issues. Come back to the other house and after about 70 hours of gaming (over several days) it starts again. The only thing changed is power socket, fuss box and PSU cable.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It happened before the three months of testing. Restarts and hard freezes, then the system changed location to another house and it stopped. Then I got the testing done without any issues. Come back to the other house and after about 70 hours of gaming (over several days) it starts again. The only thing changed is power socket, fuss box and PSU cable.


You have a dmm to check the voltage to see if it's fluctuating too much? Normally the PSU regulator could handle that unless it's excessive. I would still drop the OC on CPU/memory just in case. I had a similar issue with farcry4 and it would happen randomly until I dropped the graphics quality from ultra to the next lower setting. It would only happen on farcry4 though.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It happened before the three months of testing. Restarts and hard freezes, then the system changed location to another house and it stopped. Then I got the testing done without any issues. Come back to the other house and after about 70 hours of gaming (over several days) it starts again. The only thing changed is power socket, fuss box and PSU cable.


It sounds to me like something is wrong with the power coming out of the outlet at that house. This is a little more common than most people think. So, I would say that it's either a bad outlet, bad wiring, or bad power being delivered to that house.

Either that, or maybe it's the PSU's power cable. As you said, it was one of the only 3 things that changed after changing absolutely everything else. Maybe something's wrong with that PSU cable.


----------



## LunaTiC123

Hmm http://www.tomshardware.com/news/super-flower-leadex-ii-psus,31855.html


----------



## shilka

´
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LunaTiC123*
> 
> Hmm http://www.tomshardware.com/news/super-flower-leadex-ii-psus,31855.html


So thats the name they are going with for their new series.

Those have been a rumor for a long time.
http://www.orionpsudb.com/news/super-flower-develops-new-titanium-capable-series-of-platforms-possibly-leadex-successor


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It happened before the three months of testing. Restarts and hard freezes, then the system changed location to another house and it stopped. Then I got the testing done without any issues. *Come back to the other house and after about 70 hours of gaming (over several days) it starts again. The only thing changed is power socket, fuss box and PSU cable.*


Well there you go, that's the culprit. It can be some interference on your power line that the PSU can't filter out or the power line you have is very bad. Change cables, extension cords, wall socket, power line in the house, if nothing works, change house again. If it goes away and nothing helped, while in that house then your house has bad power.

Otherwise you need to run stock CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. to troubleshoot and describe what happens and when precisely, such as BSOD in Witcher 3, map/misson, location, ... or PC won't wake up from sleep, etc.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Well there you go, that's the culprit. It can be some interference on your power line that the PSU can't filter out or the power line you have is very bad. Change cables, extension cords, wall socket, power line in the house, if nothing works, change house again. If it goes away and nothing helped, while in that house then your house has bad power.
> 
> Otherwise you need to run stock CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. to troubleshoot and describe what happens and when precisely, such as BSOD in Witcher 3, map/misson, location, ... or PC won't wake up from sleep, etc.


Would you recommend to get a surge protector extension


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Would you recommend to get a surge protector extension


I would say that a good surge suppressor is a required part of any computer (or any sensitive electronics like a computer). There's no way to know whether this will help, but you should have one anyway. A computer should never be unprotected.


----------



## JackCY

Surge protector is for lightning, maybe some amount of overvoltage in the power grid but dunno. Only way to get filtered power is to run an uninterruptible power supply that generates power even while the AC is on, I don't know if all of them do it since that is not very efficient to reconvert stuff.

You've changed like everything but everytime you return the PC to one specific house the PC goes haywire, I would say something is wrong at that house, you can work your way from the PSU. Maybe electric heating or a fridge or something messes up your house power, who knows really. Older or Chinese appliances are not very well filtered and affect other devices on the grid.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Surge protector is for lightning, maybe some amount of overvoltage in the power grid but dunno.


No, surge protectors are not for lightning. I learned about this when I had to do a huge amount of research for about a month straight before buying my very first surge protector. I read that they cannot stop a lightning strike and could even allow your stuff to be damaged or destroyed, and what's worse is most of them have a plastic body which is even worse. If they DO manage to stop a lightning strike (which is extremely unlikely), then you can pretty much be guaranteed that your surge protector was killed instantly and was reduced to a simple power strip. Even the indicator LED might still be lit to say that it's still working, but it's really not.

Surges are happening all the time, 24/7, directly from the outlet itself. That power is raw. It's not perfectly stable.

Then there are the surges and dips that happen when a refrigerator or stand-alone freezer turns on or off, or a dehumidifier, or an air conditioner, or a hair dryer, or a power tool, the garage door opener, etc. etc. etc. When something that's powerful enough turns on or off, you get a surge, and these surges are what a surge protector are for.

All of these surges are harmful to sensitive electronics, especially with prolonged, daily bombardment.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It happened before the three months of testing. Restarts and hard freezes, then the system changed location to another house and it stopped. Then I got the testing done without any issues. *Come back to the other house and after about 70 hours of gaming (over several days) it starts again. The only thing changed is power socket, fuss box and PSU cable.*
> 
> 
> 
> Well there you go, that's the culprit. It can be some interference on your power line that the PSU can't filter out or the power line you have is very bad. Change cables, extension cords, wall socket, power line in the house, if nothing works, change house again. If it goes away and nothing helped, while in that house then your house has bad power.
> 
> Otherwise you need to run stock CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. to troubleshoot and describe what happens and when precisely, such as BSOD in Witcher 3, map/misson, location, ... or PC won't wake up from sleep, etc.
Click to expand...

I would have an electrician come in and run a dedicated circuit just for the computer


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I would have an electrician come in and run a dedicated circuit just for the computer


That can be extremely expensive, and if the power that's coming to the house is bad, then it would mean that the problem would persist.

I think for now he should try different outlets in the 'bad' house and then go from there.


----------



## Metros

I will try a different power socket, then will try and get EVGA to send me another cable.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I would have an electrician come in and run a dedicated circuit just for the computer
> 
> 
> 
> That can be extremely expensive, and if the power that's coming to the house is bad, then it would mean that the problem would persist.
> 
> I think for now he should try different outlets in the 'bad' house and then go from there.
Click to expand...

He could have a loose connection some were he should go around to every outlet turn off Powere and check that all wires are tightly screwed down


----------



## Metros

Another strange thing, Witcher 3 was fine for about 4 hours, opened up Steams Web Browser and then 10 seconds later, restarts the computer


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I will try a different power socket, then will try and get EVGA to send me another cable.


I would go turn off Powere and then go around to watch outlet and check that all wires going to the outlet are tightly screwed down to outlet


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I would go turn off Powere and then go around to watch outlet and check that all wires going to the outlet are tightly screwed down to outlet


Sure, I can try that

Not installed Firmware for keyboard and mouse, could that be a reason


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> He could have a loose connection some were he should go around to every outlet turn off Powere and check that all wires are tightly screwed down


That would be a *LOT* more work than just trying his computer on different outlets. For each outlet, he would have to do the following:


After turning off the power, get down on his hands and knees with a screwdriver (likely two screwdrivers since he'll likely encounter both slotted and Philips screws)
Remove the plastic plate (the cover)
Remove the screws that hold the outlet secure in the electrical box
Pull the outlet far enough out so that he can check the connections
Check the connections
Push the outlet back into the box
Screw the outlet back into the box
Put the plate back on
Go turn the power back on
Try the outlet
Turn the power back off
Move on to the next outlet.
Repeat all the above steps - for each outlet.

To me, that sounds like far more work than testing the computer on each outlet - especially if you have a very good extension cord at your disposal.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Sure, I can try that
> 
> Not installed Firmware for keyboard and mouse, could that be a reason


No.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> He could have a loose connection some were he should go around to every outlet turn off Powere and check that all wires are tightly screwed down
> 
> 
> 
> That would be a *LOT* more work than just trying his computer on different outlets. For each outlet, he would have to do the following:
> 
> After turning off the power, get down on his hands and knees with a screwdriver (likely two screwdrivers since he'll likely encounter both slotted and Philips screws)
> Remove the plastic plate (the cover)
> Remove the screws that hold the outlet secure in the electrical box
> Pull the outlet far enough out so that he can check the connections
> Check the connections
> Push the outlet back into the box
> Screw the outlet back into the box
> Put the plate back on
> Go turn the power back on
> Try the outlet
> Turn the power back off
> Move on to the next outlet.
> Repeat all the above steps - for each outlet.
> To me, that sounds like far more work than testing the computer on each outlet - especially if you have a very good extension cord at your disposal.
Click to expand...

I know but loose connections can cause a problem as well as possable Fire


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I know but loose connections can cause a problem as well as possable Fire


I think if he had loose connections, then he'd have unexpected power losses.


----------



## Twinnuke

Just got my 650W P2 in the mail.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I know but loose connections can cause a problem as well as possable Fire
> 
> 
> 
> I think if he had loose connections, then he'd have unexpected power losses.
Click to expand...

That's true but it could be just affecting the computer


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> That's true but it could be just affecting the computer


I'm talking about the computer.

I'm telling you that this *definitely* wouldn't be the first time I've seen dirty power from a power company cause nothing but problems for a computer.


----------



## TwoCables

Metros: are you having power-related problems with anything else at the 'bad' house?


----------



## JackCY

Is Witcher 3 the most demanding power hungry game you run? It should really be crashing/restarting running about anything.

TwoCables: I see. Well I have this thingy: APC Surgearrest 8 sockets with LAN, phone, TV connection or what on it. Sometimes the power here goes down, then up again so I have it mainly for that when the power grid is unstable. Which one did you get? I've had quite a trouble finding a decent one in Europe, even this one has crappy on/off switch that likes to die, especially if one switches it on/off, I don't know who made the switch but even mine was making noise once I was like WTH is that is that thing kiddin' me, flipped it on/off and the switch settled into a better I guess non oxidated position on the contacts who knows. If it decides to go die I will just throw it at APC, they have a newer design with different switch now.

---

Twinnuke: you mofo! Swap?


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> That's true but it could be just affecting the computer
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the computer.
Click to expand...

I still say I d check everything from breaker box to outlets just for peace of miand


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Is Witcher 3 the most demanding power hungry game you run? It should really be crashing/restarting running about anything.
> 
> TwoCables: I see. Well I have this thingy: APC Surgearrest 8 sockets with LAN, phone, TV connection or what on it. Sometimes the power here goes down, then up again so I have it mainly for that when the power grid is unstable. Which one did you get? I've had quite a trouble finding a decent one in Europe, even this one has crappy on/off switch that likes to die, especially if one switches it on/off, I don't know who made the switch but even mine was making noise once I was like WTH is that is that thing kiddin' me, flipped it on/off and the switch settled into a better I guess non oxidated position on the contacts who knows. If it decides to go die I will just throw it at APC, they have a newer design with different switch now.


I don't know if it's available in Europe, but the one I settled on is the Tripp-Lite HT10DBS. However, today I understand that their ISOBAR8ULTRA is even better. I might buy it anyway because my parents need a good surge protector for their new high-end LCD TV, Blu-Ray player and decent sound system.

When I bought the HT10DBS, I hadn't learned something yet: those ports for cable and phone and internet and whatnot should be avoided. I was using them up until I spoke with an experienced veteran expert in this field and when he found out I was using them, he nearly freaked out and told me to stop using them ASAP because they are redundant to what already exists and they can slow down internet speeds and cause interference. After all, it's another connection, another point of resistance in the line. The surge protector part of the HT10DBS is just about as good as the ISOBAR8ULTRA though.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I still say I d check everything from breaker box to outlets just for peace of miand


My thing is, let's do the easiest thing first and then go from there. Do one thing at a time so that you can figure out what the culprit is.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I still say I d check everything from breaker box to outlets just for peace of miand
> 
> 
> 
> My thing is, let's do the easiest thing first and then go from there. Do one thing at a time so that you can figure out what the culprit is.
Click to expand...

If he has tried outher outlets and is still having same problem then there is an issue


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> If he has tried outher outlets and is still having same problem then there is an issue


Yeah, that's exactly what I'm saying. He hasn't tried other outlets, so he needs to do that first.


----------



## Twinnuke

Here's my entry to the club.

AAAND it's upside down lmao.


----------



## TwoCables

lol Best entry ever.


----------



## shilka

Added to the list


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added to the list


His entry should be in an upside-down font.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twinnuke*
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my entry to the club.
> 
> AAAND it's upside down lmao.


˙ʇuɐʍ op ¡ʎllǝſ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know if it's available in Europe, but the one I settled on is the Tripp-Lite HT10DBS. However, today I understand that their ISOBAR8ULTRA is even better. I might buy it anyway because my parents need a good surge protector for their new high-end LCD TV, Blu-Ray player and decent sound system.
> 
> When I bought the HT10DBS, I hadn't learned something yet: those ports for cable and phone and internet and whatnot should be avoided. I was using them up until I spoke with an experienced veteran expert in this field and when he found out I was using them, he nearly freaked out and told me to stop using them ASAP because they are redundant to what already exists and they can slow down internet speeds and cause interference. After all, it's another connection, another point of resistance in the line. The surge protector part of the HT10DBS is just about as good as the ISOBAR8ULTRA though.


I use the LAN on mine and I haven't noticed any difference in speeds, latency or jitter. I have only my PC on it, not the router since router is elsewhere and not on surge protection. I would avoid the LAN as I think they have the LAN protected in the house but I would have to move the router to get it on the surge protector and that limits WiFi range. It's rated to "Surge energy rating 2525 J". I've tried searching TrippLite but they don't sell much in EU, mostly some expensive business solutions and cheap ass plastic surge protectors for home use, I mean about a price of an extension cord really. None of these metal cased high energy ones.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> ˙ʇuɐʍ op ¡ʎllǝſ
> I use the LAN on mine and I haven't noticed any difference in speeds, latency or jitter. I have only my PC on it, not the router since router is elsewhere and not on surge protection. I would avoid the LAN as I think they have the LAN protected in the house but I would have to move the router to get it on the surge protector and that limits WiFi range. It's rated to "Surge energy rating 2525 J". I've tried searching TrippLite but they don't sell much in EU, mostly some expensive business solutions and cheap ass plastic surge protectors for home use, I mean about a price of an extension cord really. None of these metal cased high energy ones.


I remember learning from my research that the Joule rating is only a part of the picture, even though pretty much no manufacturer or internet store will teach you what you need to look for. Just looking through the specifications, I can remember that some of these things are important:


AC Suppression Response Time
Clamping Voltage (RMS)
AC Suppression Surge Current Rating
UL1449 Let Through Rating
IEEE587 Cat. A Ringwave Let-Through

I really don't remember specifics though, but I remember that the Clamping Voltage should be less than 150V and that a let-through rating of 330V is excellent. I don't remember much else, but I remember shopping around for a long time to find something that has all the best specifications that I learned about, which is why I bought the HT10DBS. The reason why I didn't buy the ISOBAR8ULTRA was that I believed that I would benefit from the phone cable and TV connectors. lol

A LAN is protected by the ISP's equipment outside. So, protecting a LAN inside is redundant and not necessary.

*Edit:* Nicely done with the upside-down font. You even typed everything backwards!


----------



## JackCY

They don't really list the specifics unfortunately, I sure would check those for the stuff I buy. I can understand it or figure it out what it means. I don't want something to jump inside my router from AC to LAN and then kill my PC over LAN. Tested it with the LAN protection and without it, no difference in LAN quality for me, not on 100Mb/s LAN with 30Mb/s WAN. I'm not sure it does 1Gb/s I think not or it may just not matter to it but it may lack the needed shielding, who knows.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> They don't really list the specifics unfortunately, I sure would check those for the stuff I buy. I can understand it or figure it out what it means. I don't want something to jump inside my router from AC to LAN and then kill my PC over LAN. Tested it with the LAN protection and without it, no difference in LAN quality for me, not on 100Mb/s LAN with 30Mb/s WAN. I'm not sure it does 1Gb/s I think not or it may just not matter to it but it may lack the needed shielding, who knows.


I guess it's possible the guy who told me just had one bad experience and decided to tell everyone to avoid them.


----------



## sebna

Joining the club with T2 850W (as some may already know







)


----------



## shilka

Please show a picture of the unit or the box before you can be added to the owners list.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I guess it's possible the guy who told me just had one bad experience and decided to tell everyone to avoid them.


I agree that it should be avoided to have unnecessary devices on the LAN connections, I don't know how the protection inside works I've never opened one of these surge protectors with LAN in it, it can be that some cause issues or interference with nearby power grid lines if it's not shielded right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Please show a picture of the unit or the box before you can be added to the owners list.


He can't I swapped his PSU for a G2









EVGA offers an upgrade on GPUs, do they offer a downgrade on PSUs?







I wanna swap my 850 G2 for a lower wattage higher efficiency one.


----------



## TUFinside

EVGA SuperNovae 750T2 in the hands of UPS, should be at my place on Thursday ! yay !


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Metros: are you having power-related problems with anything else at the 'bad' house?


No, everything seems to be fine

Just tried a different plug socket, got a restart after about 3 hours


----------



## TUFinside

TwoCables, what do you think of this ? :

http://www.fsp-group.com.tw/index.php?do=proinfo&id=61


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> No, everything seems to be fine
> 
> Just tried a different plug socket, got a restart after about 3 hours


If your PC is OCed than it looks like a typical unstable OC (I know you have done extensive stability tests but they are very poor at showing non-load scenarios stability issues







which are not uncommon from my experience









Also as you are using T2 1600 it has very poor vdroop on 3.3 when suddenly loaded which may be affecting your RAM stability hence restarts - it kind of can fit into your description of when it happens as when at low load (almost idling) game finishes to load and then there is spike of load coming from vid and cpu and bang with the spike you get vdroop on 3.3 and ram sends your pc into reboot.

I would try different PSU not from T2 series. If I remember correctly this is the one thing you have not tried?

If this is down to quality of AC in your socket then you could try something like AG 1500 AC Regenerator - I am using them in my Audio system and they can solve a lot of problems around quality of AC.

http://www.powerinspired.com/ag1500-ac-regenerator-1500w-psu-p-1742.html

Those are active fast transient devices which do AC - DC - AC conversion effectively creating brand new sine wave free from any problem you might have upstream.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> No, everything seems to be fine
> 
> Just tried a different plug socket, got a restart after about 3 hours


I hate to recommend this, but keep trying different outlets. Try to make sure you're trying outlets that are on different circuits.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> TwoCables, what do you think of this ? :
> 
> http://www.fsp-group.com.tw/index.php?do=proinfo&id=61


I don't know Uninterruptible Power Supplies, but I will say that it doesn't look like something that people like us would want to use.


----------



## JackCY

They don't even offer the newest T2s in Europe... damn EVGA.

---

Yeah try different sockets that are on a different breaker, usually a room on the other side of the house etc.
Finding the source of an issue only you can do by systematically changing one thing after another and testing and testing. Takes forever but there is no other way much unless you have some tools or someone who can measure your AC outlets for quality. From the long HW list of changes it seemed like you've already tried changing about every component in the PC.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I hate to recommend this, but keep trying different outlets. Try to make sure you're trying outlets that are on different circuits.


Sure, I can test a few more tomorrow

Going to put the fan on NON-ECO now, to test if the PSU is overheating when using ECO mode


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> They don't even offer the newest T2s in Europe... damn EVGA.


Been waiting for a 650 / 750 watt T2 to show up over here in what seems like forever.
Which is fine since the T2 is not that high up on my list of things i need.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know Uninterruptible Power Supplies, but I will say that it doesn't look like something that people like us would want to use.


I'm using one and i had zero issue, it helps to stabilize power from the outlet (especially useful if you live in the "wild"







).


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> If your PC is OCed than it looks like a typical unstable OC (I know you have done extensive stability tests but they are very poor at showing non-load scenarios stability issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which are not uncommon from my experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also as you are using T2 1600 it has very poor vdroop on 3.3 when suddenly loaded which may be affecting your RAM stability hence restarts - it kind of can fit into your description of when it happens as when at low load (almost idling) game finishes to load and then there is spike of load coming from vid and cpu and bang with the spike you get vdroop on 3.3 and ram sends your pc into reboot.
> 
> I would try different PSU not from T2 series. If I remember correctly this is the one thing you have not tried?
> 
> If this is down to quality of AC in your socket then you could try something like AG 1500 AC Regenerator - I am using them in my Audio system and they can solve a lot of problems around quality of AC.
> 
> http://www.powerinspired.com/ag1500-ac-regenerator-1500w-psu-p-1742.html
> 
> Those are active fast transient devices which do AC - DC - AC conversion effectively creating brand new sine wave free from any problem you might have upstream.


EVGA would not allow me to change PSU to another brand though, not sure if they will let me RMA it


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> They don't even offer the newest T2s in Europe... damn EVGA.


You can get T2 850 and T2 1000W from Scan.co.uk - this is where I got mine. Only place in EU I could find any T2 (not only in stock but even just listed lol)

I could only find two reviews of T2 series (850 and 1600) and both have problem with 3.3 vdroop. I wonder if 750W unit also have it but looks like design compromise they took as both mid range wattage and end game wattage for the series has same problem. Really the 3.3 vdroop is the only flaw of those PSUs IMHO.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Been waiting for a 650 / 750 watt T2 to show up over here in what seems like forever.
> Which is fine since the T2 is not that high up on my list of things i need.


Yup, i chose the P2, when auto-notify popped up in my mail i was like : YaY ! , and once in the in the EVGA online store i saw it was available in the USA only i was like :MeH ! But no big deal, P2 is VERY similar and noticeably cheaper, so YaY !


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Been waiting for a 650 / 750 watt T2 to show up over here in what seems like forever.
> Which is fine since the T2 is not that high up on my list of things i need.


Yeah I remember, and I've been away for a long time. I can find P2s in shops but only EVGA EU web has more offers but still lowest T2 is 850.

And what's up with the suffixes -XR, now -X2 and -X3 seems like the same darn thing


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know Uninterruptible Power Supplies, but I will say that it doesn't look like something that people like us would want to use.


I use an Cyberpower UPS because my street suffers brownouts. I don't use it to keep the system up just to avoid any drop in power to safely shutdown and it has an AVR which helps with line noise AFAIK.
I have had random issues with systems but it was worse prior to using this unit....that said life hasn't been cherry since but I have never had a system shutdown since I have started using it. Are there negatives to using such a unit? I am not too keen on power just had a rig die due to too many brownouts and outages and it was plugged into an isobank surge protector that wasn't cheap so I opted to go for the battery backup.


----------



## shilka

Never mind the answer is below.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah I remember, and I've been away for a long time. I can find P2s in shops but only EVGA EU web has more offers but still lowest T2 is 850.
> 
> And what's up with the suffixes -XR, now -X2 and -X3 seems like the same darn thing


i know , i made the mistake and i had to redo my order :

X2: EU plug
X3 : UK plug


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> EVGA would not allow me to change PSU to another brand though, not sure if they will let me RMA it


What do you mean? Just borrow one from a friend if you have no spare PSU and see if it solves the problem.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> What do you mean? Just borrow one from friend if you have no spare PSU and see if it is a problem


I do not know anyone with a 1200w or higher PSU


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Sure, I can test a few more tomorrow
> 
> Going to put the fan on NON-ECO now, to test if the PSU is overheating when using ECO mode


I wouldn't use eco at all, I'll pay the extra 25c/year for the fan to be on the whole year lol. Do you have a UPS to try to stabilize the power? Really sounding like it's your power at your place, maybe it's 100 instead of 120?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I do not know anyone with a 1200w or higher PSU


Why do you a need PSU that big? what do you have in your system?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why do you a need PSU that big? what do you have in your system?


Intel 5930K
MSI X99 Godlike
GTX 980ti Matrix SLI
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB
Samsung 850 Pro 1TB
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
EK Predator 360mm
Corsair Dominator 32GB 2666Mhz
EVGA 1600w T2


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I wouldn't use eco at all, I'll pay the extra 25c/year for the fan to be on the whole year lol. Do you have a UPS to try to stabilize the power? Really sounding like it's your power at your place, maybe it's 100 instead of 120?


What do you mean 100 instead of 120


----------



## chronicfx

I haven't shown my EVGA 1000P2 yet. Here is a pic!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> What do you mean 100 instead of 120


Voltages that I have observed in the US is around 110-120V AC. The power in your area may be lower like 100V AC or something, you'll know if you measure it with an actual meter and you can also see if it's fluctuating hard.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> i know , i made the mistake and i had to redo my order :
> 
> X2: EU plug
> X3 : UK plug


Thought so







I got -XR EU plug but then who cares, I got so many cables and the end on the PSU is the same for all PSUs and PC devices. Just dig out some other cable and hook it up.
EVGA EU web has 650 P2 and 850 T2 the lowest. I would probably get an RMx anyway if I was buying a PSU right now. The Leadex reign has gotten a competition, the crappy RM line was tossed and made new good in RMi/x.
Will see what Leadex 2 brings, if they manage to make the whole 550-1600W range in all Gold, Plat, Titan.

I didn't notice any issue with 3.3V on T2s in reviews, sure lowest 3.26V on 3.3V line I think that's fine withing specs or not? Or is there some "drop dip opposite of spike" on the 3.3V? Unfortunate then that they mess up a good platform to make it Titanium.

---

He has too many hamsters in his PC and those in the basement can't keep pedaling the wheel to make power for it. Feed the darn hamsters!


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Intel 5930K
> MSI X99 Godlike
> GTX 980ti Matrix SLI
> Samsung 950 Pro 512GB
> Samsung 850 Pro 1TB
> Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
> EK Predator 360mm
> Corsair Dominator 32GB 2666Mhz
> EVGA 1600w T2


Overkill PSU indeed (not too much, but still)


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Thought so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got -XR EU plug but then who cares, I got so many cables and the end on the PSU is the same for all PSUs and PC devices. Just dig out some other cable and hook it up.
> EVGA EU web has 650 P2 and 850 T2 the lowest. I would probably get an RMx anyway if I was buying a PSU right now. The Leadex reign has gotten a competition, the crappy RM line was tossed and made new good in RMi/x.
> Will see what Leadex 2 brings, if they manage to make the whole 550-1600W range in all Gold, Plat, Titan.
> 
> I didn't notice any issue with 3.3V on T2s in reviews, sure lowest 3.26V on 3.3V line I think that's fine withing specs or not? Or is there some "drop dip opposite of spike" on the 3.3V? Unfortunate then that they mess up a good platform to make it Titanium.
> 
> ---
> 
> He has too many hamsters in his PC and those in the basement can't keep pedaling the wheel to make power for it. *Feed the darn hamsters!*


maybe those PSUs work a little better on 220/230V than 110/115V.

EDIT for hamsters: Sqeeek ! (Go for the eyes ! Boo !)


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Voltages that I have observed in the US is around 110-120V AC. The power in your area may be lower like 100V AC or something, you'll know if you measure it with an actual meter and you can also see if it's fluctuating hard.


Sorry, what meter will I need to test it

Voltmeter I guess or is it some thing different that I need to use


----------



## Artah

This 1600 T2 is one of many EVGA PSU that we use on multiple rigs that we have. No issues with any of them what so ever except when two heavily overclocked rigs go full power with multiple Titan X GPUs at the same time knocks out the circuit. Separated them into separate circuits since then.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Sorry, what meter will I need to test it
> 
> Voltmeter I guess or is it some thing different that I need to use


I bought a Digital Multi Meter from amazon for 8 bucks once, it's not the best at accuracy for very low voltages but will do for PSU and wall voltage tests.

http://www.amazon.com/DIGITAL-MULTIMETER-MULTITESTER-VOLTMETER-OHMMETER/dp/B000UUGOQE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I bought a Digital Multi Meter from amazon for 8 bucks once, it's not the best at accuracy for very low voltages but will do for PSU and wall voltage tests.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/DIGITAL-MULTIMETER-MULTITESTER-VOLTMETER-OHMMETER/dp/B000UUGOQE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage


I got one at University, might let me take it


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I use an Cyberpower UPS because my street suffers brownouts. I don't use it to keep the system up just to avoid any drop in power to safely shutdown and it has an AVR which helps with line noise AFAIK.
> I have had random issues with systems but it was worse prior to using this unit....that said life hasn't been cherry since but I have never had a system shutdown since I have started using it. Are there negatives to using such a unit? I am not too keen on power just had a rig die due to too many brownouts and outages and it was plugged into an isobank surge protector that wasn't cheap so I opted to go for the battery backup.


I'm just assuming that for an overclocked gaming computer, we would probably be best using a high-end UPS instead of a more basic one, but I wouldn't know to be honest.


----------



## JackCY

I have a UPS, some old APC unit and the batteries are dead, old lead batteries, thing is tossed in basement. Used it with an old PC back in the day. It's nice to have one when your power grid is unstable, at least you have time to save your work, game, finish that firmware update or other possibly critical thing. It was a bit annoying at first when I switched from laptop to PC again and the power goes down it's down instantly without UPS. I don't think you need a high end unit but having a sine output on it is a plus, I don't think all have sine on output and some devices may not work with that. Don't even need some super powerful one unless you want to work from UPS for hour or more.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know Uninterruptible Power Supplies, but I will say that it doesn't look like something that people like us would want to use.
Click to expand...

I would not ever let that near anything I own.. ever
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know Uninterruptible Power Supplies, but I will say that it doesn't look like something that people like us would want to use.
> 
> 
> 
> I use an Cyberpower UPS because my street suffers brownouts. I don't use it to keep the system up just to avoid any drop in power to safely shutdown and it has an AVR which helps with line noise AFAIK.
> I have had random issues with systems but it was worse prior to using this unit....that said life hasn't been cherry since but I have never had a system shutdown since I have started using it. Are there negatives to using such a unit? I am not too keen on power just had a rig die due to too many brownouts and outages and it was plugged into an isobank surge protector that wasn't cheap so I opted to go for the battery backup.
Click to expand...

Simple keys name brand and esp for pcs since wave.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> What do you mean 100 instead of 120
> 
> 
> 
> Voltages that I have observed in the US is around 110-120V AC. The power in your area may be lower like 100V AC or something, you'll know if you measure it with an actual meter and you can also see if it's fluctuating hard.
Click to expand...

You do know they are made to also use in Japan which uses 100vac?


----------



## Artah

I actually didn't know that you can go as low as 100 on those PSUs. Learned something new but if the power fluctuates between 100 to 120 it can't be good for stability.


----------



## Mega Man

your psu has filtering for such things on the ac side


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I actually didn't know that you can go as low as 100 on those PSUs. Learned something new but if the power fluctuates between 100 to 120 it can't be good for stability.


Good high-end PSUs handle large fluctuations very well. My old HX650 handled a brownout without skipping a beat, and I would guess that the input voltage was about 60V because my incandescent light went to about half its brightness. Everything was still working very well except for my router and my speakers. Even my monitor was still bright and strong.


----------



## Thoth420

Here is my unit: https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/intelligent-lcd/cp1500avrlcd

I saw something about using pure sine wave units with a gaming PC using a modern PSU and was assured this unit is safe for my build. If not please advise and recommend an alternative unit of similar capabilities.


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> This 1600 T2 is one of many EVGA PSU that we use on multiple rigs that we have. No issues with any of them what so ever except when two heavily overclocked rigs go full power with multiple Titan X GPUs at the same time knocks out the circuit. Separated them into separate circuits since then.


Very clean. Very nice. Star Wars like







T2 1600 is a beast in size.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Here is my unit: https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/intelligent-lcd/cp1500avrlcd
> 
> I saw something about using pure sine wave units with a gaming PC using a modern PSU and was assured this unit is safe for my build. If not please advise and recommend an alternative unit of similar capabilities.


Looks fine to me.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *I would not ever let that near anything I own.. ever*
> Simple keys name brand and esp for pcs since wave.
> You do know they are made to also use in Japan which uses 100vac?


Could you be more specific ?


----------



## Martin778

My 1200 P2:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *I would not ever let that near anything I own.. ever*
> Simple keys name brand and esp for pcs since wave.
> You do know they are made to also use in Japan which uses 100vac?
> 
> 
> 
> Could you be more specific ?
Click to expand...

well for one, "FSB" is a maker of PSUs at least in the us, NEVER seen a UPS by them, nor do i trust FSB, few psus from FSB that i have seen are near good let alone great


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well for one, "FSB" is a maker of PSUs at least in the us, NEVER seen a UPS by them, nor do i trust FSB, few psus from FSB that i have seen are near good let alone great


What are the best brands ? i learned from a website Cyberpower is good, could you recommend me an UPS without battery ?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> What are the best brands ? i learned from a website Cyberpower is good, could you recommend me an UPS without battery ?


UPS without a battery? You mean like solar panels that also operate without a battery or what do you mean? The UPS has to store energy somewhere unless you want a water turbine or diesel UPS lol Even those often have batteries because it takes time for secondary power to start generating and that short time is covered by battery power again.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> UPS without a battery? You mean like solar panels that also operate without a battery or what do you mean? The UPS has to store energy somewhere unless you want a water turbine or diesel UPS lol Even those often have batteries because it takes time for secondary power to start generating and that short time is covered by battery power again.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uninterruptible_power_supply


yes, sorry that was not clear, i wanted something that could provide clean current and offers protection with no battery , but i found a nice UPS that would suits my needs.

https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1350pfclcd


----------



## JackCY

I don't know if some conversion units are sold on consumer market, say 110V to 110V or 230V to 230V, there sure must be some for say 110V to 230V and vice versa.


----------



## Metros

EVGA will send me a new PSU cable for 47 euros including postage, that is a high price for a cable


----------



## JackCY

Don't you have like 10 spare cables at home? Why not just swap the cable between monitor and PSU? Take a meter and check the PSU cable when bent and what not, who knows.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812224041


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> EVGA will send me a new PSU cable for 47 euros including postage, that is a high price for a cable


You could have bought one from some other shop, or use a spare one, 47 euros !!


----------



## Martin778

Is it made from unicorn dust plated copper or what?

I have a drawer full of standard IEC cables....if you were from my city you could pick one for free.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Don't you have like 10 spare cables at home? Why not just swap the game between monitor and PSU? Take a meter and check the PSU cable when bent and what not, who knows.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812224041


I do have one on an old system, however that is not the highest of quality

What do you mean swap the game between monitor and PSU


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I do have one on an old system, however that is not the highest of quality
> 
> What do you mean swap the game between monitor and PSU


Cancel the order and save money, you owe that to yourself.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I do have one on an old system, however that is not the highest of quality
> 
> What do you mean swap the game between monitor and PSU


game = cable, typing too fast XD


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well for one, "FSB" is a maker of PSUs at least in the us, NEVER seen a UPS by them, nor do i trust FSB, few psus from FSB that i have seen are near good let alone great
> 
> 
> 
> What are the best brands ? i learned from a website Cyberpower is good, could you recommend me an UPS without battery ?
Click to expand...

No idea.

There are a few cyber power, apc, and a few others but most others I know are "server grade"

The difference being about 300 bucks ( ie you would pay 400-500 for it )


----------



## Metros

So it is not PSU overheating then, just ran NON-ECO, no CPU overclock and not even opening a web browser. I played for about 6 hours, then it restarted itself during a game of gwent. I will try Battlefront now


----------



## Metros

I will try a different PSU cable and a different circuit tomorrow, if that fails, what do you think it could be that is causing the problem


----------



## sebna

Swap psu


----------



## Thoth420

I don't overload the Cyberpower at all and only OC my CPU and GPU if needed so lately nothing is overclocked as it is all new and I am troubleshooting my crappy board. I just wanted to ensure that I had the correct unit as I heard some can actually cause problems and I bought it as a tertiary backup (secondary being the protection built into modern quality PSU's like these ones) just in case I have a power droop or a blackout. I prefer to safely shutdown programs if my power goes out and then my system or worse the brownouts...

I probably should order a new battery even though it is still on 100% the unit is pushing two years old now. I have only needed it as an AVR mostly and it saw two outages in which I shutdown immediately but I know these batteries don't last forever...used or not. (if that is wrong please save me some money guys because I plan to order a battery this week from cyberpower).


----------



## Mega Man

Why would you order a new battery?

Even if you do go after market.

Idk about yours. I bought a server grade ups. I can self test and calibrate mine, can't you do that on yours?


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No idea.
> 
> There are a few cyber power, apc, and a few others but most others I know are "server grade"
> 
> The difference being about 300 bucks ( ie you would pay 400-500 for it )


Thank you, i still need to dig about it.


----------



## shilka

Now that the Leadex II is on its way should it be included in this club or should it get its own?
EVGA will probably rebrand them as the G3/P3/T3.

For me there will only ever be one G3 and that is this.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_G3


----------



## MicroCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Now that the Leadex II is on its way should it be included in this club or should it get its own?
> EVGA will probably rebrand them as the G3/P3/T3.
> 
> For me there will only ever be one G3 and that is this.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_G3


I've had a few systems where that G3 would have been the preferred troubleshooting tool.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I've had a few systems where that G3 would have been the preferred troubleshooting tool.


LOL

"...it's still not working."

"Have you tried shooting it with a G3?"


----------



## shilka

Off topic but InRange TV did a video about the G3 not long ago and they confim what i found out as well you cant hit jack in full auto as the gun is all over the map.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why would you order a new battery?
> 
> Even if you do go after market.
> 
> Idk about yours. I bought a server grade ups. I can self test and calibrate mine, can't you do that on yours?


I will have to try and dig up the documentation on the unit. I just assumed that the battery had a shelf life regardless of use....I think I read that somewhere reputable when I was deciding which unit to buy.
Just prefer to not have the battery fail if needed when a new one is I believe around 50 bucks. I bet it could get a year or two before degrading and that being a problem but I will forget so best to do it now even if I set the replacement battery next to the unit for a year in the box just to have it there as a reminder and a backup.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I will have to try and dig up the documentation on the unit. I just assumed that the battery had a shelf life regardless of use....I think I read that somewhere reputable when I was deciding which unit to buy.
> Just prefer to not have the battery fail if needed when a new one is I believe around 50 bucks. I bet it could get a year or two before degrading and that being a problem but I will forget so best to do it now even if I set the replacement battery next to the unit for a year in the box just to have it there as a reminder and a backup.


Yeah, batteries slowly lose their charge over time. PSU's slowly loser their output capacity over time too, and it's because capacitors don't last forever either, and they have a very similar design to batteries.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, batteries slowly lose their charge over time. PSU's slowly loser their output capacity over time too, and it's because capacitors don't last forever either, and they have a very similar design to batteries.


Should I just buy a new better, higher wattage one for my PC and cycle this one to my older HTPC and console? I don't mind dropping a decent chunk of change on a bulletproof unit just don't know what to get. My total max draw for everything plugged in would never exceed 1000 watts and that's only if it has at least 6 outlets in the battery section(not the surge/AVR protection side).


----------



## JackCY

Sorry I'm an FN FAL fan, G3 and Leadex II have to make a new thread.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Should I just buy a new better, higher wattage one for my PC and cycle this one to my older HTPC and console? I don't mind dropping a decent chunk of change on a bulletproof unit just don't know what to get. My total max draw for everything plugged in would never exceed 1000 watts and that's only if it has at least 6 outlets in the battery section(not the surge/AVR protection side).


I really don't know. I don't know much about uninterruptible power supplies at all.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I really don't know. I don't know much about uninterruptible power supplies at all.


No worries I have some time to decide. I guess I will do a bit of homework.


----------



## JackCY

Me neither, I had one very heavy home use APC one with lead batteries. You can buy UPS easily from computer shops but they are kinda pricey because batteries aren't exactly cheap nor is high power delivery if you need a lot of W / VA.


----------



## TUFinside

I found my UPS, downside is i'll have to buy specific cables, but i made my choice on this unit.

https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/smart-app-sinewave/pr750lcd

Fully compatible with active PFC.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Sorry I'm an FN FAL fan, G3 and Leadex II have to make a new thread.


The Leadex I is not even one series its a number of series if you did not know already.
http://www.orionpsudb.com/evga


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> I found my UPS, downside is i'll have to buy specific cables, but i made my choice on this unit.
> 
> https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/smart-app-sinewave/pr750lcd
> 
> Fully compatible with active PFC.


UPS ordered !


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why would you order a new battery?
> 
> Even if you do go after market.
> 
> Idk about yours. I bought a server grade ups. I can self test and calibrate mine, can't you do that on yours?
> 
> 
> 
> I will have to try and dig up the documentation on the unit. I just assumed that the battery had a shelf life regardless of use....I think I read that somewhere reputable when I was deciding which unit to buy.
> Just prefer to not have the battery fail if needed when a new one is I believe around 50 bucks. I bet it could get a year or two before degrading and that being a problem but I will forget so best to do it now even if I set the replacement battery next to the unit for a year in the box just to have it there as a reminder and a backup.
Click to expand...

Iirc ( off the top of my head ) 3-5 years imo get a reputable off brand. All companies (apc/cyber power/ect) are way too proud of their rebrand powers when it comes to batteries. If you want when I get home I van tell you the ones I bought. I get the full rating out of them (assuming you are in US, on mobile can't see location)


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Swap psu


I think I will buy another EVGA 1600w from Amazon and try it, if it does not stop the freezing I will send it back


----------



## sebna

I would get EVGA but P2 series as it does not have 3.3 vdrop problem. Just for a test as you said.

Or AX1200i... but it is a bit of lottery it seams with all problems reported plaguing some more unlucky units out there.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> I would get EVGA but P2 series as it does not have 3.3 vdrop problem. Just for a test as you said.
> 
> Or AX1200i... but it is a bit of lottery it seams with all problems reported plaguing some more unlucky units out there.


Yeah, sure I will get the P2 version then


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> I would get EVGA but P2 series as it does not have 3.3 vdrop problem. Just for a test as you said.
> 
> Or AX1200i... but it is a bit of lottery it seams with all problems reported plaguing some more unlucky units out there.


Also I found out, a normal PSU plug does not fit in the PSU, EVGA seems to have used a different design


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Also I found out, a normal PSU plug does not fit in the PSU, EVGA seems to have used a different design


That's because of the PSU's output capacity. It requires a cable type that can handle it. It's not an EVGA-specific cable, it's just a type of cable.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> I would get EVGA but P2 series as it does not have 3.3 vdrop problem. Just for a test as you said.
> 
> Or AX1200i... but it is a bit of lottery it seams with all problems reported plaguing some more unlucky units out there.


Did Jonnyguru discuss about the vdroop, did not remember noticing it


----------



## Metros

I expect this is not a problem, however the MSI X99 Godlike has an 8 pin and 4 pin power connector. I have only plugged in the 8 pin connector (I think the four pin is optional) do you think that could be why it restarts


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I expect this is not a problem, however the MSI X99 Godlike has an 8 pin and 4 pin power connector. I have only plugged in the 8 pin connector (I think the four pin is optional) do you think that could be why it restarts


I don't know. I mean like you said, whether it happens depends on which house the computer is in. That means something is wrong with the electrical at the bad house in one way or another.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know. I mean like you said, whether it happens depends on which house the computer is in. That means something is wrong with the electrical at the bad house in one way or another.


Yeah, just trying to think of anything now









I will play Battlefront for a few hours, will find out if it crashes

However it just seems strange that Witcher 3 is fine for 6 hours (including some games of gwent) then I play gwent (after a few hours of after the last game) and it restarts my computer


----------



## sebna

Johnny does not do transient tests so he could not have noticed it. Check techpowerup and tom's hardware.


----------



## Metros

Anyone else have a EVGA 1600w T2 here then


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Also I found out, a normal PSU plug does not fit in the PSU, EVGA seems to have used a different design


It comes with the PSU and the other end will plug on a regular 110 house socket.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Johnny does not do transient tests so he could not have noticed it. Check techpowerup and tom's hardware.


I would ask Shilka but iirc transient tests are out dated as they have changed the way psus are designed ( everything is now 12v dc to DC rather then separate transformers )


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would ask Shilka but iirc transient tests are out dated as they have changed the way psus are designed ( everything is now 12v dc to DC rather then separate transformers )


The transient test are the most important as they are closest to real struggles PSUs go trough when it matters. Most of the rest of the tests can be considered synthetic in compare to transient. DC to DC does not matter here at all. It may matter for final result, as different technologies may have its tendencies, but does not matter for test merits.

If you would take a closer look at parameters at which they load PSU during transient tests you would see that amperage on 3.3 corresponds to typical load ~32gb of mildly OCed ram would put on this line in other words spot on for real life usage... now through in 32 GB (not to mention 64-128) of high mhz ram with low timings and bumped voltage and you are getting higher load on 3.3 which might mean even higher vdroop, potentially below ATX specs... (or potentially not)

I would argue that rest of the tests do not mean much in compare to transient as these days all high end PSU produce stable voltages on stable "synthetic" loads. Mix things up, make it harder and more real, like transient test do and weak links start to show... like 3.3 vdroop on T2 series, or perhaps conscious sacrifice on Leadex side to gain an edge somewhere else.


----------



## JackCY

I think only US has those weird plugs on higher wattage units coz 110V prehistoric grid and the need to run twice as high current due to that.

Metros you better write it down what you have tried already and yeah you should always connect all of the connectors on mobo unless it is specifically said in the manual when it is or is not needed to connect some. For example my board as a molex to provide more power from mobo when 3-4 GPUs are used and it is optional it's to reduce the load on the other connections that supply the PCIe power as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would ask Shilka but iirc transient tests are out dated as they have changed the way psus are designed ( everything is now 12v dc to DC rather then separate transformers )
> 
> 
> 
> The transient test are the most important as they are closest to real struggles PSUs go trough when it matters. Most of the rest of the tests can be considered synthetic in compare to transient. DC to DC does not matter here at all. It may matter for final result, as different technologies may have its tendencies, but does not matter for test merits.
> 
> If you would take a closer look at parameters at which they load PSU during transient tests you would see that amperage on 3.3 corresponds to typical load ~32gb of mildly OCed ram would put on this line in other words spot on for real life usage... now through in 32 GB (not to mention 64-128) of high mhz ram with low timings and bumped voltage and you are getting higher load on 3.3 which might mean even higher vdroop, potentially below ATX specs... (or potentially not)
> 
> I would argue that rest of the tests do not mean much in compare to transient as these days all high end PSU produce stable voltages on stable "synthetic" loads. Mix things up, make it harder and more real, like transient test do and weak links start to show... like 3.3 vdroop on T2 series, or perhaps conscious sacrifice on Leadex side to gain an edge somewhere else.
Click to expand...

i doubt one of the best psu reviewers in the industry ( imo ) would just stop doing something because he felt like doing that , when iirc he used to , and just for the sake of doing it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> *I think only US has those weird plugs on higher wattage units coz 110V prehistoric grid and the need to run twice as high current due to that.*
> 
> _Metros you better write it down what you have tried already and yeah you should always connect all of the connectors on mobo unless it is specifically said in the manual when it is or is not needed to connect some. For example my board as a molex to provide more power from mobo when 3-4 GPUs are used and it is optional it's to reduce the load on the other connections that supply the PCIe power as well._


bold/under line

this is simply false and i dont appreciate the tone/insult to the united states of america. there are *SEVERAL* countries that do not run 50hz and / or 230ish v some as low as 100v even. just because you feel everyone should run either 50hz or 230ish v ( w.e. your country runs ) that is grand and dandy. we dont. we wanna run what we do.

that plug has NOTHING to do with the us and it would be on ALL units as ALL PSUs can run a variable voltage with few exceptions even on PSUs designed to ONLY be in EU/other parts of the world due to the higher voltage/amp draw

that is an IEC standard not a us standard ( pssst iec = *International* Electrotechnical Commission )

italics
- imo good advice


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i doubt one of the best psu reviewers in the industry ( imo ) would just stop doing something because he felt like doing that , when iirc he used to , and just for the sake of doing it
> bold/under line
> 
> this is simply false and i dont appreciate the tone/insult to the united states of america. there are *SEVERAL* countries that do not run 50hz and / or 230ish v some as low as 100v even. just because you feel everyone should run either 50hz or 230ish v ( w.e. your country runs ) that is grand and dandy. we dont. *we wanna run what we do*.
> 
> that plug has NOTHING to do with the us and it would be on ALL units as ALL PSUs can run a variable voltage with few exceptions even on PSUs designed to ONLY be in EU/other parts of the world due to the higher voltage/amp draw
> 
> that is an IEC standard not a us standard ( pssst iec = *International* Electrotechnical Commission )
> 
> italics
> - imo good advice


My PSU thanks me running at 220V, (a bit) more efficient, 110V when running through wires oppose more resistance therefore more heat. USA uses 110V(for home) thanks to Edison because it's less likely to be lethal than 220V when you're unlucky or stupid enough to touch electrical wires. Also why USA still use their own metrics while the rest of the world uses standard metrics ? Please explain bold text in quote.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Iirc ( off the top of my head ) 3-5 years imo get a reputable off brand. All companies (apc/cyber power/ect) are way too proud of their rebrand powers when it comes to batteries. If you want when I get home I van tell you the ones I bought. I get the full rating out of them (assuming you are in US, on mobile can't see location)


I am in the US. That would be awesome!....but if you are too busy don't worry I have time to decide what I am doing as the main rig is down right now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i doubt one of the best psu reviewers in the industry ( imo ) would just stop doing something because he felt like doing that , when iirc he used to , and just for the sake of doing it
> bold/under line
> 
> this is simply false and i dont appreciate the tone/insult to the united states of america. there are *SEVERAL* countries that do not run 50hz and / or 230ish v some as low as 100v even. just because you feel everyone should run either 50hz or 230ish v ( w.e. your country runs ) that is grand and dandy. we dont. *we wanna run what we do*.
> 
> that plug has NOTHING to do with the us and it would be on ALL units as ALL PSUs can run a variable voltage with few exceptions even on PSUs designed to ONLY be in EU/other parts of the world due to the higher voltage/amp draw
> 
> that is an IEC standard not a us standard ( pssst iec = *International* Electrotechnical Commission )
> 
> italics
> - imo good advice
> 
> 
> 
> My PSU thanks me running at 220V, (a bit) more efficient, 110V when running through wires oppose more resistance therefore more heat. USA uses 110V(for home) thanks to Edison because it's less likely to be lethal than 220V when you're unlucky or stupid enough to touch electrical wires. Also why USA still use their own metrics while the rest of the world uses standard metrics ? Please explain bold text in quote.
Click to expand...

wow. that efficiency amounts to so much more elect. saved







maybe a whole $2 worth per year ? might even be able to light an LED for an extra second off that .... yay ( sarcasm )
you would save far more not running your ups/power conditioner then that extra % from running 230v ( psst you dont get more then i, i run 220v i have a special 70a 220 circuit just for all my pcs. )

one pc is capable of 3200w another 2000, a new one not yet built but in progress another 2000. and my tx may be breaking the 4000w mark, unknown atm ..... heak even my itx build can push 1250w ....

all capable of running @ full tilt at the same time, thanks to good ole america ! i even have access to 3 phase power, wanna see some efficiency ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Iirc ( off the top of my head ) 3-5 years imo get a reputable off brand. All companies (apc/cyber power/ect) are way too proud of their rebrand powers when it comes to batteries. If you want when I get home I van tell you the ones I bought. I get the full rating out of them (assuming you are in US, on mobile can't see location)
> 
> 
> 
> I am in the US. That would be awesome!....but if you are too busy don't worry I have time to decide what I am doing as the main rig is down right now.
Click to expand...

i bought from https://www.amazon.com/s?marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=ATW4RRWB3JMSM&merchant=ATW4RRWB3JMSM&redirect=true

specifically i bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RYBG4VM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i calibrated when i got and i got the correct amount of time ( not a junk battery ) from it, and i run weakly tests where it runs it down to a predetermined % and it has passed without issue

purchased in aug 2015


----------



## JackCY

Hmm I don't see why a big plug is needed for 1500W+ PSUs, everything else household runs fine from normal crappy cables and connectors. Still it should be a universal cable available in any shop carrying cables or PC components. He don't need to order it from EVGA


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wow. that efficiency amounts to so much more elect. saved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe a whole $2 worth per year ? might even be able to light an LED for an extra second off that .... yay ( sarcasm )
> you would save far more not running your ups/power conditioner then that extra % from running 230v ( psst you dont get more then i, i run 220v i have a special 70a 220 circuit just for all my pcs. )
> 
> one pc is capable of 3200w another 2000, a new one not yet built but in progress another 2000. and my tx may be breaking the 4000w mark, unknown atm ..... heak even my itx build can push 1250w ....
> 
> all capable of running @ full tilt at the same time, thanks to good ole america ! i even have access to 3 phase power, wanna see some efficiency ?
> i bought from https://www.amazon.com/s?marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=ATW4RRWB3JMSM&merchant=ATW4RRWB3JMSM&redirect=true
> 
> specifically i bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RYBG4VM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> i calibrated when i got and i got the correct amount of time ( not a junk battery ) from it, and i run weakly tests where it runs it down to a predetermined % and it has passed without issue
> 
> purchased in aug 2015


Wow ! you should move next to a nuclear plant !







How did you get that special 70A 220V circuit ? And what PC draws 3200W ? that's *insane* ! Are you responsible for some blackouts time to time ? I hope you don't live in California (if i recall correctly, power is not cheap in this state).

About batteries, possible to use them on Cyberpower UPS ?


----------



## Mega Man

apparently one of my posts, didnt post when i was on mobile.

@ nuclear power that may be true but it is against my and many others wills

and as to the batteries you will have to goto the sellers stores ( the first link ) and search for the batteries you need ( the cyber power battery number )


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> apparently one of my posts, didnt post when i was on mobile.
> 
> @ nuclear power that may be true but it is against my and many others wills
> 
> and as to the batteries you will have to goto the sellers stores ( the first link ) and search for the batteries you need ( the cyber power battery number )


Thanks ! +1rep even though you are contradictory in your replies (you said, i quote"we wanna run what we do." while obviously you are against this (nuclear)). So i suggest you to power off your installation and use candles and charcoal(good luck







).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> apparently one of my posts, didnt post when i was on mobile.
> 
> @ nuclear power that may be true but it is against my and many others wills
> 
> and as to the batteries you will have to goto the sellers stores ( the first link ) and search for the batteries you need ( the cyber power battery number )
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks ! +1rep even though you are contradictory in your replies (you said, i quote"we wanna run what we do." while obviously you are against this (nuclear)). So i suggest you to power off your installation and use candles and charcoal(good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
Click to expand...

thanks , although that statement was very much obviously talking about something else ( 230ishv/50hz vs 115v/60hz )


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> bold/under line
> 
> this is simply false and i dont appreciate the tone/insult to the united states of america. there are *SEVERAL* countries that do not run 50hz and / or 230ish v some as low as 100v even. just because you feel everyone should run either 50hz or 230ish v ( w.e. your country runs ) that is grand and dandy. we dont. we wanna run what we do.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thanks , although that statement was very much obviously talking about something else ( 230ishv/50hz vs 115v/60hz )


Yes, you have a point


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Hmm I don't see why a big plug is needed for 1500W+ PSUs, everything else household runs fine from normal crappy cables and connectors. Still it should be a universal cable available in any shop carrying cables or PC components. He don't need to order it from EVGA


To learn more about it, start here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers

Compare C13/C14 to C19/C20. The C13/C14 cable can only handle 10A, which is a maximum 1200W if your input voltage is 120V, or 1100W at 110V. The C19/C20 can handle up to 16A, which is 1920W with an input voltage of 120V, and 1760W at 110V. Judging from one of the photos on that page, this cable is also able to handle 15A at 230V. That would be 3450W.

So, it wouldn't be able to deliver 1600W on a C13/C14 cable because the cable would melt.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> To learn more about it, start here:
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers
> 
> Compare C13/C14 to C19/C20. The C13/C14 cable can only handle 10A, which is a maximum 1200W if your input voltage is 120V, or 1100W at 110V. The C19/C20 can handle up to 16A, which is 1920W with an input voltage of 120V, and 1760W at 110V. Judging from one of the photos on that page, this cable is also able to handle 15A at 230V. That would be 3450W.
> 
> So, it wouldn't be able to deliver 1600W on a C13/C14 cable because the cable would melt.


There you go jackCY ! Use the brain Luke !


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> There you go jackCY ! Use the brain Luke !


lol "Use the brain Luke"? I think there's something wrong with you. hehe


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> lol "Use the brain Luke"? I think there's something wrong with you. hehe


----------



## JackCY

10A*230V = 2300W
16A*230V = 3680W

But that won't comply with US and other 100-120V regulations coz they can only do half that power on the same cable and connector. The cables won't melt as long as you don't have some cheapo thin wires in it







It's fine for 230V to run 2000W+ on normal appliance cables, the breakers are 10-16A anyway so you're gonna trip something before you will kill the cable.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 10A*230V = 2300W
> 16A*230V = 3680W
> 
> But that won't comply with US and other 100-120V regulations coz they can only do half that power on the same cable and connector. The cables won't melt as long as you don't have some cheapo thin wires in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's fine for 230V to run 2000W+ on normal appliance cables, the breakers are 10-16A anyway so you're gonna trip something before you will kill the cable.


I don't think it's 16A with 230V. Look here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:IEC_60320_C20_Skt.jpg

That's where I got 15A at 230V from.

Since the C13/C14 cable can only handle 10A vs the 16A maximum of the C19/C20, I would say that the C19/C20 cable has a much thicker wire gauge.


----------



## shilka

Good news for everyone that want LED lights in their cables ports but cant buy the Leadex
http://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-evga-psus-computex,31979.html#xtor=RSS-100


----------



## Mega Man

:i am in love ! i finally have some psus for my Tx
10 !!!!! ( i need 4 ) and i dont have to import more leadex units !!!!!

@EVGA RobB
@EVGA-JacobF

tell everyone THANK YOU !


----------



## Kimir

Led with a switch and smaller size, good, very good.


----------



## Mega Man

my big want is to be able to dim them externally ( IE use a "on- off -on switch ) one of ht e"on"s is always on. the "other" is RGB connector
( AKA a 4 pin w/e. connector to a RGB connector ) then let us control the colors--

i am sur eit would add to the cost, but i would def. pay


----------



## SteezyTN

Just wondering if anyone can help me. I recently moved and there's a problem with where my PC is placed compared to where the wall outlet is. Where the PC is, there is only a 2 prong wall outlet and the power cord is 3 pronged (EVGA 850 P2). However, on the other side of the room, there is a 3 pronged outlet. Would it be okay to use a power strip extension so I can reach the plug from the other side of the room (since I already have one)? Or would that be bad for the power?

Or could I just buy a 2 prong to 3 prong wall adapter and use that for the 2 prong outlet that's in the power cords reach? Would that cause problems with power?

I'm asking because I'm running a sort of high demanding powered rig. Titan X at 1.274v and a 4770K pushing 1.315v.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can help me. I recently moved and there's a problem with where my PC is placed compared to where the wall outlet is. Where the PC is, there is only a 2 prong wall outlet and the power cord is 3 pronged (EVGA 850 P2). However, on the other side of the room, there is a 3 pronged outlet. Would it be okay to use a power strip extension so I can reach the plug from the other side of the room (since I already have one)? Or would that be bad for the power?
> 
> Or could I just buy a 2 prong to 3 prong wall adapter and use that for the 2 prong outlet that's in the power cords reach? Would that cause problems with power?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm running a sort of high demanding powered rig. Titan X at 1.274v and a 4770K pushing 1.315v.


Buy the two prong to three prong adapteror upgrade the outlet to a three prong one it usable t that hard to do


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Buy the two prong to three prong adapter


That's what I was thinking. And this won't cause any power draw issues or anything?


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Buy the two prong to three prong adapter
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was thinking. And this won't cause any power draw issues or anything?
Click to expand...

Or you can upgrade the outlet to a three prong one it is not that hard to do


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Or you can upgrade the outlet to a three prong one it is not that hard to do


That was the other option I thought of. Looks like I'm swapping the outlet to a 3 prong one. Thanks.


----------



## smke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Or you can upgrade the outlet to a three prong one it is not that hard to do
> 
> 
> 
> That was the other option I thought of. Looks like I'm swapping the outlet to a 3 prong one. Thanks.
Click to expand...

No problem if you need advice on how it done let me know


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can help me. I recently moved and there's a problem with where my PC is placed compared to where the wall outlet is. Where the PC is, there is only a 2 prong wall outlet and the power cord is 3 pronged (EVGA 850 P2). However, on the other side of the room, there is a 3 pronged outlet. Would it be okay to use a power strip extension so I can reach the plug from the other side of the room (since I already have one)? Or would that be bad for the power?
> 
> Or could I just buy a 2 prong to 3 prong wall adapter and use that for the 2 prong outlet that's in the power cords reach? Would that cause problems with power?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm running a sort of high demanding powered rig. Titan X at 1.274v and a 4770K pushing 1.315v.


If you do this. You need to check your power supply rating amp draw and the size if the cord used and amp capability of the power strip ( should by law (in us) be printed on it)

When working with electrical you don't care what vcore you have. You need to care about the potential amp draw of the unit because it can cause fires
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can help me. I recently moved and there's a problem with where my PC is placed compared to where the wall outlet is. Where the PC is, there is only a 2 prong wall outlet and the power cord is 3 pronged (EVGA 850 P2). However, on the other side of the room, there is a 3 pronged outlet. Would it be okay to use a power strip extension so I can reach the plug from the other side of the room (since I already have one)? Or would that be bad for the power?
> 
> Or could I just buy a 2 prong to 3 prong wall adapter and use that for the 2 prong outlet that's in the power cords reach? Would that cause problems with power?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm running a sort of high demanding powered rig. Titan X at 1.274v and a 4770K pushing 1.315v.
> 
> 
> 
> Buy the two prong to three prong adapteror upgrade the outlet to a three prong one it usable t that hard to do
Click to expand...

Slightly not correct. You can use an adapter but if it is not correctly done it is of no benefit (3rd leg is a ground )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Buy the two prong to three prong adapter
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was thinking. And this won't cause any power draw issues or anything?
Click to expand...

No. All the 3rd leg is,is a ground. It is a safety to protect you and your family from a short.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> Buy the two prong to three prong adapter
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was thinking. And this won't cause any power draw issues or anything?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or you can upgrade the outlet to a three prong one it is not that hard to do
Click to expand...

If it isn't done properly it is not going to help this doesn't mean anything bad happens just that the ground will not necessarily functional depending on a myriad of things

Electrical is not something to mess with if you don't know what your doing. Either pay someone to do it right or start learning


----------



## TwoCables

@SteezyTN

You can use a power strip. Most of them are able to handle 1875W, and it will keep your rig grounded. If your rig isn't grounded, then you could end up with problems later on. Those adapters that enable you to plug a grounded plug into an ungrounded outlet don't mean your rig will be grounded; it just means you'll have the ability to use that ungrounded outlet, which wouldn't be all that good. However, I have learned that just because an outlet LOOKS grounded (3-prong), it doesn't mean that it actually is. Some outlets in my old house were like that: they should have been grounded but they weren't! I discovered this by using a tester.

Actually, I would prefer that you have your rig connected to a good surge protector. Not just any surge protector, but a good one. I personally recommend the Tripp-Lite ISOBAR8ULTRA. It's about the best there is.

Finally, don't replace the outlet with a grounded one *unless you know what you're doing*. If you go to replace it and find that there's no ground wire, then you will be wasting your time and putting your life at risk for no good reason (just because you turn off the circuit, it doesn't guarantee that you're absolutely, positively 100% safe). This is why when you hire an electrician, it's best to hire one who's certified. It's a legality thing.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Led with a switch and smaller size, good, very good.


The GL are G2 with lights and the GX is a smaller G2 but they are two series not one.


----------



## sebna

Hi Guys,

Ok, so my T2 850 has arrived few days ago but as I do not have all the parts ready for a build yet I did not bother unpacking it so far. Had few minutes today so decided to check it out.

Looks nice, good finish quality. I found in the box 24pin tester so I though I will give it a try.

Ok, so here is where problems start. It is dead silent when plugged into wall and charged so to say but once powered "on" via tester it has faint buzzing... now this is not acceptable for me, I will only accept dead silent unit as I am building silent PC. Dead silent was one of the reasons (main) I went for Titanium series. Both of my HX 450 and HX 850 are dead silent so this one should be also as it is even higher grade then HX series.

I will be returning it. The only question that remains is: should I ask for replacement unit or should I return it for a refund and go for different brand? This is where I hope for your help guys.

So my question is - does your T2 units buzzes when powering your rigs (or powering tester). If it is a "feature" or common enough situation then I am requesting a refund and going for another brand. If your units are dead silent and I am just unlucky then I will be asking for a replacement unit and I will give it one more shot.

The buzzing is faint. I can hear it from 30-40cm maybe max and to hear it really well like a quiet conversation I have to put my ear against the PSU. I know some of you may say if it is so quiet then maybe it should not bother me but it does so lets not go there







. As I said I am only interested in dead silent and perfect unit in this regard.

I did not go for AXi series as buzzing and coil whine plus ticking fan seems to be a common enough problems. Not so much with EVGA psus... but it seems I was unlucky. My unit came factory sealed so for sure it was not a reject of any kind.

Thanks guys for any input on the above.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Ok, so my T2 850 has arrived few days ago but as I do not have all the parts ready for a build yet I did not bother unpacking it so far. Had few minutes today so decided to check it out.
> 
> Looks nice, good finish quality. I found in the box 24pin tester so I though I will give it a try.
> 
> Ok, so here is where problems start. It is dead silent when plugged into wall and charged so to say but once powered "on" via tester it has faint buzzing... now this is not acceptable for me, I will only accept dead silent unit as I am building silent PC. Dead silent was one of the reasons (main) I went for Titanium series. Both of my HX 450 and HX 850 are dead silent so this one should be also as it is even higher grade then HX series.
> 
> I will be returning it. The only question that remains is: should I ask for replacement unit or should I return it for a refund and go for different brand? This is where I hope for your help guys.
> 
> So my question is - does your T2 units buzzes when powering your rigs (or powering tester). If it is a "feature" or common enough situation then I am requesting a refund and going for another brand. If your units are dead silent and I am just unlucky then I will be asking for a replacement unit and I will give it one more shot.
> *
> The buzzing is faint. I can hear it from 30-40cm maybe max and to hear it really well like a quiet conversation I have to put my ear against the PSU. I know some of you may say if it is so quiet then maybe it should not bother me but it does so lets not go there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . As I said I am only interested in dead silent and perfect unit in this regard.
> *
> I did not go for AXi series as buzzing and coil whine plus ticking fan seems to be a common enough problems. Not so much with EVGA psus... but it seems I was unlucky. My unit came factory sealed so for sure it was not a reject of any kind.
> 
> Thanks guys for any input on the above.


bold- you wont hear it - it will be in a case. - electricity DOES have a sound that said a "dry" test means NOTHING you need to have it hooked to a load before making any judgements *IMO*,

that psu is not ment to just sit there idle

second and more important

what does t2 have to do with silence? the "t" designates titanium 80+ which imo unless running a 100% used server 100% of the time is beyond useless and a waste of moneies


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> bold- you wont hear it - it will be in a case. - electricity DOES have a sound that said a "dry" test means NOTHING you need to have it hooked to a load before making any judgements *IMO*,
> 
> that psu is not ment to just sit there idle.


Yeah I was thinking about it as well. I will load it today but I do not expect much TBH. As to: "you wont hear it - it will be in a case" that is not good enough for me as I said in the previous message. If I would like a buzzing PSU I would buy 20e unit off the shelf not 250e one. If you are ok with paying premium and getting medicore that is your right but I am none like it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what does t2 have to do with silence? the "t" designates titanium 80+ which imo unless running a 100% used server 100% of the time is beyond useless and a waste of moneies


Have you seen its fan profile? That is what T2 have to do with silence. Your comments about server show you have absolutely no idea how server world works so better stick to PC examples in the future.


----------



## sebna

Just received answer to my support ticket with EVGA (on Sunday... nice!). They say replace, should be dead silent.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Just received answer to my support ticket with EVGA (on Sunday... nice!). They say replace, should be dead silent.


Can't expect less from EVGA !


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> That's what I was thinking. And this won't cause any power draw issues or anything?


Just use the proper wall sockets that have proper 3 wires to them as well.

No buzzing. In US it should be easy to RMA with EVGA. I did the same with 2 coil whining CrapSonics, then I got me a silent Leadex







Too big but for the same $.

GX line looks nice. GX or RMx? Time will tell.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what does t2 have to do with silence? the "t" designates titanium 80+ which imo unless running a 100% used server 100% of the time is beyond useless and a waste of moneies
> 
> 
> 
> Have you seen its fan profile? That is what T2 have to do with silence. Your comments about server show you have absolutely no idea how server world works so better stick to PC examples in the future.
Click to expand...

really ? obviously it does show your knowledge of servers,

NOT all servers are loaded, most are not.

not ALL servers are sitting waiting,

a server is a large term - everything from mining servers to folding servers ( which i have been in LARGE server rooms full of folding servers all @ 100% ( hint you want titanium psus in this ) to web servers to routers to firewalls.... statistic servers ... all hold different loads

getting a titanium psu in something you want "silence" is a mediocre idea at best you would go with a PASSIVE PSU ( hint: no sound ) or several
Quote:


> Your comments about server show you have absolutely no idea how server world works so better stick to PC examples in the future.


right back at you


----------



## sebna

Mega Man I suggest you do more reading about pro grade folding server builds....

As to T2 850W why would I limit my system to passive if I can go hybrid with power headroom and not worrying about temps? Also two passives to match power output of one T2 is more expensive even before factoring in heavier, messier, bigger computer case... but sure go on with your ideas.


----------



## TwoCables

Sebna, "Dead silent" to most people is precisely what your PSU is. *As you said, you can't hear it unless you put your ear right up to it.* I would bet you that your replacement will have the exact same sound. EVGA called it "dead silent" because that's what it is: it's dead silent, just as long as you don't have your damn ear pressed up against against it. NO ONE DOES THAT, except for you, of course. Why are you doing that? Did you tell EVGA that you can only hear it if your ear is practically pressed up against it? If not, then you need to. I'd love to see their reply to that.

Look, you are being *WAY* too extreme with your definition of a silent computer. If you have to put your ear right up to your PSU (or ANY part for that matter) in order to hear it and if you are never going to hear it otherwise, THEN THAT IS "DEAD SILENT". Think about it: when are you ever going to hear it? I'm serious, *WHEN?!*

Sigh. I'm sorry, but this has become absolutely ridiculous. You are never going to hear your PSU!

Why does your computer have to be so silent that you can't even hear it with your ear pressed up against each component? Is this how you use your computer on a daily basis or something? Do you literally make love to your computer on a regular basis and are tired of the sound it makes? What gives? There's something you're not telling us here, and I think it's time you tell us what your real reasons are for wanting your computer to be silent to these ridiculous and impractical extremes. If you don't have any further reasons to give other than "I want a silent computer", then we will continue to tell you that you're being ridiculous, way too extreme, and way too literal. No computer needs to be THAT SILENT.


----------



## TUFinside

Really ? ear right up the PSU ? buzzing sound is NORMAL, coil whine is something else, if you really need SILENT computing, buy a solar calculator.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Really ? ear right up the PSU ? buzzing sound is NORMAL, coil whine is something else, if you really need SILENT computing, buy a solar calculator.


Well he did say that his HX450 and HX850 are dead silent, so I'm assuming that he put one of his ears right up to those too while they were in use. So I guess he is assuming that if those PSUs don't make a buzzing noise, then *no* PSU should make a buzzing noise - especially if it's supposed to be super high-end. Sebna, I hate to tell you this, but that's not true.

Of course, this is still extremely ridiculous. "It seems to be dead silent until I put my ear right up to it." Sigh. To most people, that's what "dead silent" is: you can't hear it AT ALL *normally*, as in *you're not putting you freakin' ear right up to it.*


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can help me. I recently moved and there's a problem with where my PC is placed compared to where the wall outlet is. Where the PC is, there is only a 2 prong wall outlet and the power cord is 3 pronged (EVGA 850 P2). However, on the other side of the room, there is a 3 pronged outlet. Would it be okay to use a power strip extension so I can reach the plug from the other side of the room (since I already have one)? Or would that be bad for the power?
> 
> Or could I just buy a 2 prong to 3 prong wall adapter and use that for the 2 prong outlet that's in the power cords reach? Would that cause problems with power?
> 
> I'm asking because I'm running a sort of high demanding powered rig. Titan X at 1.274v and a 4770K pushing 1.315v.


third prong is for ground ? isn't it ? if so i urge you to power your PC with a plug equipped with grounded wire !


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Just received answer to my support ticket with EVGA (on Sunday... nice!). They say replace, should be dead silent.


Thats what they said about my 1300 G2 (without ECO mode). The new one sount the same.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> third prong is for ground ? isn't it ? if so i urge you to power your PC with a plug equipped with grounded wire !


Yes, it is indeed for ground. However, just because an outlet is 3-pronged, it doesn't guarantee that it's actually grounded. It *should* be, but some electricians are lazy. When it's important to you to plug your device into a properly-grounded outlet, the only way to be sure is to use a tester. You can even use a power strip or surge protector that happens to have an LED indicator that shows whether the outlet is grounded. Using my surge protector's ground indicator LED, I found a few outlets in my home that are the 3-pronged kind but aren't actually grounded.


----------



## Mega Man

As I said TwoCables electricity has a sound. And they should if got a fan less unit if it was so important I have purchased alot of PSUs and other pc equip and I never assume it will sound like it is off

While I dont care about sound (I care about performance)

My wife does so I have been building hers accordingly.

It is sad that people can not listen to others who have more expertise then then. When someone has purchased more in cooling (for just ONE of many builds )then their entire rig costs in would bet that person had more knowledge about silence then the other.

But that is the world we live in. I have learned at this point it is better to "put down your tools, and let them make their choice" they "know" more about their "problem" then you and they have the "knowledge" to fix it. That is why they asked for help right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As I said TwoCables electricity has a sound. And they should if got a fan less unit if it was so important I have purchased alot of PSUs and other pc equip and I never assume it will sound like it is off
> 
> While I dont care about sound (I care about performance)
> 
> My wife does so I have been building hers accordingly.
> 
> It is sad that people can not listen to others who have more expertise then then. When someone has purchased more in cooling (for just ONE of many builds )then their entire rig costs in would bet that person had more knowledge about silence then the other.
> 
> But that is the world we live in. I have learned at this point it is better to "put down your tools, and let them make their choice" they "know" more about their "problem" then you and they have the "knowledge" to fix it. That is why they asked for help right?


Yep, electricity vibrates.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yes, it is indeed for ground. However, just because an outlet is 3-pronged, it doesn't guarantee that it's actually grounded. It *should* be, but some electricians are lazy. When it's important to you to plug your device into a properly-grounded outlet, the only way to be sure is to use a tester. You can even use a power strip or surge protector that happens to have an LED indicator that shows whether the outlet is grounded. Using my surge protector's ground indicator LED, I found a few outlets in my home that are the 3-pronged kind but aren't actually grounded.


It's even worse to use a 3 prongs outlet without ground with a 3 prongs plug !


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> It's even worse to use a 3 prongs outlet without ground with a 3 prongs plug !


That's what we're talking about, yeah. When something has a 3-pronged plug, it means that the product needs to be grounded. If it has a 2-pronged plug, then it doesn't matter.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> That's what we're talking about, yeah. When something has a 3-pronged plug, it means that the product needs to be grounded. If it has a 2-pronged plug, then it doesn't matter.


i know that, i was saying don't plug your PC to a "fake" 3 prongs outlet.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> i know that, i was saying don't plug your PC to a "fake" 3 prongs outlet.


Why? I already said that (more than once, even). I'm not against agreement, but it sounds like you are trying to make sure it has been said - and it has. I made sure of it already.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Why? I already said that (more than once, even). I'm not against agreement, but it sounds like you are trying to make sure it has been said - and it has. I made sure of it already.


you did not explain why it's dangerous to plug an electrical device to an outlet with 3 prongs with the ground wire not linked to the ground.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> you did not explain why it's dangerous to plug an electrical device to an outlet with 3 prongs with the ground wire not linked to the ground.


No, but neither did you.









I didn't feel that it was necessary to explain why. In addition to that, no one asked why.

*Edit:* Actually, I did say "because you could end up with problems later on". That seemed to be all he needed to be told because he didn't ask what problems could come up.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, but neither did you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't feel that it was necessary to explain why. In addition to that, no one asked why.
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, I did say "because you could end up with problems later on". That seemed to be all he needed to be told because he didn't ask what problems could come up.


touching a device plugged to an outlet not linked to ground can electrocute you, since your body will replace the missing grounded wire, and it can also start fire.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Really ? ear right up the PSU ? buzzing sound is NORMAL, coil whine is something else, if you really need SILENT computing, buy a solar calculator.


Saving this quote as it is pure gold!


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Saving this quote as it is pure gold!


At your service sir


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, but neither did you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't feel that it was necessary to explain why. In addition to that, no one asked why.
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, I did say "because you could end up with problems later on". That seemed to be all he needed to be told because he didn't ask what problems could come up.
> 
> 
> 
> touching a device plugged to an outlet not linked to ground can electrocute you, since your body will replace the missing grounded wire, and it can also start fire.
Click to expand...

Very unlikely to start fire.

Also unlikely to shock you ( but it can happen) not as likely to electrocute you (I notice that you may be from the UK and in the UK it seems electrocute can just be a shock [ going from the different spelling I have seen you (I think) use and the Web ] in the us it means death )

While it is not likely to cause either of those it definitely *can* shock you *if it fails* certain ways. In extreme cases it may electrocute.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, I have had my rig connected to an ungrounded outlet and the only thing I remember changing after connecting it to a properly-grounded outlet was my system seemed to be slightly more stable.

Also, a surge protector cannot function properly if it's not connected to a properly-grounded outlet. So, any somewhat-similar protection you might have in a PSU (like an MOV I think?) will not function unless your outlet is properly grounded.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Very unlikely to start fire.
> 
> Also unlikely to shock you ( but it can happen) not as likely to electrocute you (I notice that you may be from the UK and in the UK it seems electrocute can just be a shock [ going from the different spelling I have seen you (I think) use and the Web ] in the us it means death )
> 
> While it is not likely to cause either of those it definitely *can* shock you *if it fails* certain ways. In extreme cases it may electrocute.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, I have had my rig connected to an ungrounded outlet and the only thing I remember changing after connecting it to a properly-grounded outlet was my system seemed to be slightly more stable.
> 
> Also, a surge protector cannot function properly if it's not connected to a properly-grounded outlet. So, any somewhat-similar protection you might have in a PSU (like an MOV I think?) will not function unless your outlet is properly grounded.


Thanks to both of you for the precisions, deserved +rep for both









So in the U.S we say shock to differentiate from electrocute ? (lol, i was just thinking a pretty electrical device is electro-cute, ok, i'm leaving...







)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Thanks to both of you for the precisions, deserved +rep for both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So in the U.S we say shock to differentiate from electrocute ? (lol, i was just thinking a pretty electrical device is electro-cute, ok, i'm leaving...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


In my own little part of the U.S., we've always used the word "electrocute" for the most serious form, like the kind that could end up being fatal. We use "shock" for much less harmful versions, like when you get the tiny little 'snap' sound of electricity in the winter when you touch someone after rubbing your feet on the carpet. I guess some people call those "carpet shocks".

So, I guess we have always seen the word "electrocute" as a very serious and potentially dangerous thing, while "shock" is just annoying.

I will say too that "electrocute" is definitely not a cute thing. Ahem.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> In my own little part of the U.S., we've always used the word "electrocute" for the most serious form, like the kind that could end up being fatal. We use "shock" for much less harmful versions, like when you get the tiny little 'snap' sound of electricity in the winter when you touch someone after rubbing your feet on the carpet. I guess some people call those "carpet shocks".
> 
> So, I guess we have always seen the word "electrocute" as a very serious and potentially dangerous thing, while "shock" is just annoying.
> 
> I will say too that "electrocute" is definitely not a cute thing. Ahem.


English is not my natal tongue, i was asking myself what are the words to differentiate the 2 phenomenons, in french we say "electrocuté"=death (or near) for electrocute and "electrisé" for shock.


----------



## TUFinside

Please add me to the list (for the sake of bragging)


----------



## TUFinside

I have a question, is that connector compatible with EVGA 750P2 ?

http://www.moddiy.com/products/EVGA-PSU-SuperNOVA-MB-Modular-Connector-%2818%252dPin%29.html

Same for MB 10pin and VGA 8pin.And where can i find the pinout for these, same as G2 ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> English is not my natal tongue, i was asking myself what are the words to differentiate the 2 phenomenons, in french we say "electrocuté"=death (or near) for electrocute and "electrisé" for shock.


I hate to tell you this because I know how it will sound, but it was obvious to me that English isn't your native tongue. It's not due to your fluency in English, it's due to very subtle clues that I have come to recognize after being on the internet for the past ~19 years. Because of this, I notice things that most people miss.

So, that's why I am so willing to teach how we use these words over here across the pond.


----------



## JackCY

I would say they are, you could always compare the pictures with what you have if you wanna check.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I hate to tell you this because I know how it will sound, but it was obvious to me that English isn't your native tongue. It's not due to your fluency in English, it's due to very subtle clues that I have come to recognize after being on the internet for the past ~19 years. Because of this, I notice things that most people miss.
> 
> So, that's why I am so willing to teach how we use these words over here across the pond.


Yes, i almost said in my post it's obvious that english is not my natal tongue, but i'm starving to learn.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Yes, i almost said in my post it's obvious that english is not my natal tongue, but i'm starving to learn.


I think you are extremely fluent in English, to the point that you could convince just about anyone that you were born and raised here in the U.S. I pick up on very subtle clues, but sometimes those clues even exist in the way some Americans type. For a very quick example: putting a space before punctuation, like this ! That is, as opposed to this! Or, how about this example ? You know, as compared to this one?


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think you are extremely fluent in English, to the point that you could convince just about anyone that you were born and raised here in the U.S. I pick up on very subtle clues, but sometimes those clues even exist in the way some Americans type. For a very quick example: putting a space before punctuation, like this ! That is, as opposed to this! Or, how about this example ? You know, as compared to this one?


I'm an American who ignores himself







. I think i make big mistakes in English, that's why i plan to do some exercises with some books and force myself to watch movies not subtitled. Also i wish to make a trip to America.


----------



## Mega Man

Derete


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> I'm an American who ignores himself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I think i make big mistakes in English, that's why i plan to do some exercises with some books and force myself to watch movies not subtitled. Also i wish to make a trip to America.


Have you seen the Pink Panther with Steve Martin? hehe Make a trip to New York and have a hamburger.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Derete


lol


----------



## TUFinside

Derete ? i don't get it..


----------



## TUFinside

Where could i find the pin layout of the 750T2 PSU for MB 18pin, MB 10pin and VGA 8pin ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Derete ? i don't get it..


It's a humorous nod toward people who can't pronounce 'L' sounds, but instead can only do 'R' sounds. It could be offensive to some, but this is as much as I will say.

I thought it was cute because I know he has a warm heart and means no harm.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's a humorous nod toward people who can't pronounce 'L' sounds, but instead can only do 'R' sounds. It could be offensive to some, but this is as much as I will say.
> 
> I thought it was cute because I know he has a warm heart and means no harm.


Hahaha ! Dumb me


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Hahaha ! Dumb me


I'm not so sure I can agree with that because I have a feeling that this particular humor is more common in the U.S. than anywhere else. It's also much easier to be funny with it by just speaking, rather than using text. So, I think that it's not very common on the internet.


----------



## sebna

Quick update on my situation. I have ordered another T2 to see if it will be free from problem the first one has.

Also I have loaded my current T2 and, as expected, the buzzing is even worse...

Thank you *SteezyTN* and *JackCY* for letting know about your units. Much appreciated and very helpful.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm not so sure I can agree with that because I have a feeling that this particular humor is more common in the U.S. than anywhere else. It's also much easier to be funny with it by just speaking, rather than using text. So, I think that it's not very common on the internet.


I finally got it nonetheless


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> I will keep it simple as I do not have time for this nonsense.
> I would suggest you start reading and start understanding what you are reading before posting. This is not the first time you are having problems with it. Just as a reminder of what I have really written in oppose to your imaginary version:
> 
> Are those supposed to be my words? You have just made them up, again. How old are you? I suggest you get a bit of fresh air instead making a mission of your life trying to reach 71000 posts.
> 
> I will not comment rest of your post(s) as based on above made up assumptions they just do not make sense and just do not apply to the real world situation. I assume you will not be able to stop no matter what so I will just ignore you from now on as I really do not have time for this.
> 
> Quick update on my situation. I have ordered another T2 to see if it will be free from problem the first one has.
> 
> Also I have loaded my current T2 and, as expected, the buzzing is even worse...
> 
> Thank you *SteezyTN* and *JackCY* for letting know about your units. Much appreciated and very helpful.


Wow. I'm not talking to you anymore, sebna. Perhaps some day in the future you will see just how ridiculous you are being (you really need to relax - you *never* would have heard your PSU), and perhaps you will also see just how rude and offensive this post of yours is.


----------



## Mega Man

Eh.

He just wants to hear he is right, he does not care if it is the Truth


----------



## sebna

BTW my previous post was edited by a mod I assume...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> BTW my previous post was edited by a mod I assume...


Yep, because I reported it as being offensive. I didn't deserve ANY of it. I only wanted to help you because you are making this whole thing very difficult for yourself and I can't just sit here and watch someone go through that without doing something. What do I get for caring? Treated like crap. For what? I didn't really do anything to deserve it. So, I reported it instead of saying what I *really* wanted to say. You are a very ungrateful person. I also wasn't the only one saying the those things you didn't like, yet you only targeted me. So, that added to it.

I still want very much to help you out. I want very much to show you that you can have a dead silent computer, but that you will have to accept that some components will still be making a faint sound that you can only hear if you have your ear right up to them. That's just how it is. I just want you to be happy and relaxed with your rig. That's all. I care. I really do.

I will honestly be surprised (but happily surprised) if your new T2 doesn't have a faint buzzing/humming sound.


----------



## TUFinside

Chill out buddies !


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUFinside*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's a humorous nod toward people who can't pronounce 'L' sounds, but instead can only do 'R' sounds. It could be offensive to some, but this is as much as I will say.
> 
> I thought it was cute because I know he has a warm heart and means no harm.
> 
> 
> 
> Hahaha ! Dumb me
Click to expand...

he was correct, i also as well as derete say "meh","herro", "dorra" ( me hello and dollar )

nothing offensive ment just me being me


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he was correct, i also as well as derete say "meh","herro", "dorra" ( me hello and dollar )
> 
> nothing offensive ment just me being me


lol I saw "meh" and thought of the indifferent-sounding "meh" sound we sometimes make.


----------



## TUFinside

Cool, i wasn't aware of those language subtleties, i have a long way to go. I just know something like this : Buzzing ? Schmuzzing !


----------



## JackCY

WTH is going on here... get a beer together and chillax.


----------



## TwoCables

Never fear, I'm not going to let it escalate beyond where it already went. Like I said, I care. I can't help it.


----------



## shilka

TUFinside did you post any pictures?
Think i have missed your post if you did.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> TUFinside did you post any pictures?
> Think i have missed your post if you did.


Yup, http://www.overclock.net/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club/2830#post_25233204


----------



## shilka

I totally missed that among all the other posts and later the fighting.


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I totally missed that among all the other posts and later the fighting.


No problemo ! Thanks !


----------



## 66racer

Hi guys,

I have what I think is a simple question but I need some reassurance on this. I purchased the bitfenix alchemy 2.0 set for evga psu's and I swore I read the evga p2 850 was on the list....well p2 stops at 1000watt but the 850 g2 is on the list. My common sense said to try it and all seems well but I just noticed the oem 24pin and the bitfenix 24pin both have a pin that does not have a wire, except they are not the same pin location. Stock has pin 20 empty and the bitfenix kit has pin 2 empty. The system is benching normally but what can the long term effect be? At this point im guessing they feed the same circuit but are there for extra amps? Im not a guru on this subject.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## JackCY

You would have to check pin layout for your PSU and on the ATX board. I don't get it myself why they sometimes try to save money by removing 1-2 wires


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have what I think is a simple question but I need some reassurance on this. I purchased the bitfenix alchemy 2.0 set for evga psu's and I swore I read the evga p2 850 was on the list....well p2 stops at 1000watt but the 850 g2 is on the list. My common sense said to try it and all seems well but I just noticed the oem 24pin and the bitfenix 24pin both have a pin that does not have a wire, except they are not the same pin location. Stock has pin 20 empty and the bitfenix kit has pin 2 empty. The system is benching normally but what can the long term effect be? At this point im guessing they feed the same circuit but are there for extra amps? Im not a guru on this subject.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Is this a full wire set or just extensions ?


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You would have to check pin layout for your PSU and on the ATX board. I don't get it myself why they sometimes try to save money by removing 1-2 wires


best answer


----------



## Artah

Has anyone tested if a higher wattage psu eats more electricity compared to lower ones without a load?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Has anyone tested if a higher wattage psu eats more electricity compared to lower ones without a load?


No, because it doesn't work that way. A PSU pulls more out of the wall outlet when your computer is pulling more power. It also pulls less power when your computer is pulling less power. How much it pulls compared to how much your computer is pulling depends on the PSU's efficiency. So let's say your computer is idling at 100W and your PSU is achieving 90% efficiency here. That would mean the PSU would be pulling 111-112W out of the wall outlet in order to deliver 100W to the computer.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, because it doesn't work that way. A PSU pulls more out of the wall outlet when your computer is pulling more power. It also pulls less power when your computer is pulling less power. How much it pulls compared to how much your computer is pulling depends on the PSU's efficiency. So let's say your computer is idling at 100W and your PSU is achieving 90% efficiency here. That would mean the PSU would be pulling 111-112W out of the wall outlet in order to deliver 100W to the computer.


You still lose transformation and regulation energy on idle I thought. There is a diode/voltage regulator and other component that would help keep the voltage constant and convert the extra energy into heat. I'm just wondering if the difference is negligible between a 1000 and 1600 watt. Also I was under the impression that PSU is rated at 100% load so a 1600 would do worse than the 1000watt psu operating at 100% load.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> You still lose transformation and regulation energy on idle I thought. There is a diode/voltage regulator and other component that would help keep the voltage constant and convert the extra energy into heat. I'm just wondering if the difference is negligible between a 1000 and 1600 watt. Also I was under the impression that PSU is rated at 100% load so a 1600 would do worse than the 1000watt psu operating at 100% load.


I'm not following. What do you mean by "would do worse"? How much power a PSU pulls from the wall at a given computer's power draw depends on the PSU's efficiency.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> You still lose transformation and regulation energy on idle I thought. There is a diode/voltage regulator and other component that would help keep the voltage constant and convert the extra energy into heat. I'm just wondering if the difference is negligible between a 1000 and 1600 watt. Also I was under the impression that PSU is rated at 100% load so a 1600 would do worse than the 1000watt psu operating at 100% load.


Yes larger wattage PSUs are less efficient at low loads such as PC idle simply due to physics and construction of the PSUs. Most Gold rated do about 85% efficiency at 10% load but the curve of efficiency starts to drop at about 15% and more rapidly the lower the load is.


----------



## Mega Man

That was not asked/ given. Only of the idle wattage was static (ie 100w)

What if rather then a static number it was 10% or 5%

Thew is no way to know at that point

In either case you are taking about such a small difference in in inefficiency that it wouldn't matter. The main exception to this if you went from a (making up some numbers) 200w system with a 400w psu to a 1600wpsu


----------



## Artah

Thanks guys, those are some really good and helpful insights. I basically went from 1000w P2 to 1600 T2 and was wondering how much cash is leaking out of my pocket while my OCed Titan Xs are not baking while playing games in 4k. I meant to test it myself but I forgot and now both PSUs are in use with all the wires plugged in neatly tucked in and unplugging either one of them would be a hell of a task just so I can test.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Is this a full wire set or just extensions ?


Its on the full wire kit.


----------



## Mega Man

idk how true this it but i would get a multimeter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> *Anyone have the pin out for the evga 850w p2?* P2 and G2 use the same cables


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> the EVGA on the 18pin connector, you have 2 x 3.3v going to the same pin on the 24 pins
> 
> if you look on the pinout, the pin 2 on 24 pins (3.3v) is going to pin 3 and 7 of the 18pin connector
> 
> 
> 
> but received an answer and generally these are for voltage monitoring under load
> 
> able to remove them but better to have these connected


looks like your missing a 3.3v line? i never seen it cause issues but how many do it?

technically all the 3.3v is connected in the traces, maybe ask bitfenix if they ment to, that is weird ....


----------



## Metros

So an update on my random restarts

I disabled all overclocks (CPU and GPU) along with changing wall socket and on a different power circuit. It ran for a week, on Battlefront, Witcher 3 and CS GO, for quite a long time in a day. I got no crashes for that entire week. I enabled CPU overclock and it was fine for three days. Then I enabled GPU overclock and game crashed (core unstable) got DirectX11 driver crash, then 1 minute later random restart. It then restarted another three times during gaming (even with CPU and GPU overclock disabled)

Then it randomly stopped restarting and I could play again for another 4 hours. I will test Witcher 3 again today

So overall I am not sure then (someone was playing with a non-working iron and kept plugging it into a different socket, same circuit, was around the same time as the restarts, however I am not too sure)


----------



## JackCY

Use default advertised clocks not any OC, you won't find a thing with unstable OC. I bet it's your OC then.


----------



## Mega Man

I agree it sounds like unstable oc


----------



## TwoCables

He already ruled out an unstable overclock. Review his posts, guys:

http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/by_user/id/463884/thread/1492511/page/20


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I agree it sounds like unstable oc


Witcher 3, for 6 hours, CPU and GPU overclock, no crash


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> He already ruled out an unstable overclock. Review his posts, guys:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/by_user/id/463884/thread/1492511/page/20


Yeah but writes it down so chaotic, should stay with default not OC when hunting down any issues, you want to minimize everything so it's easier to find the origin. I know it's tempting to say something is stable, but many have fell into that trap before, even brand new and stock may not be stable and have issues that's why one tests HW stock first before doing any OC to be sure one goes from a stable state.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah but writes it down so chaotic, should stay with default not OC when hunting down any issues, you want to minimize everything so it's easier to find the origin. I know it's tempting to say something is stable, but many have fell into that trap before, even brand new and stock may not be stable and have issues that's why one tests HW stock first before doing any OC to be sure one goes from a stable state.


But I am pointing out how he replaced pretty much EVERYTHING in the computer, yet the problem persisted. He also didn't overclock the new parts. Then when he tested the same rig at a different house, the problem went away completely. Brought it back, and the problem came back.

So I think it's obvious at this point that the problem is with the electrical. Maybe the power being delivered to the house is bad for some reason.

In other words, how could it be an unstable overclock? How could it be anything anyone has said? I mean, look at what he has tried so far.


----------



## Mega Man

Witcher 3 does not mean stable. And gpus esp a driver can break your oc.

Simple fix get a active or online ups.

I don't remember all his responses and I am replying via moble


----------



## JackCY

Yeah it's a chaos he needs to sum it up and keep a system to discovering the issue. Bet he has something like 2 wires in his wall sockets instead of 3 or something and it's trying to kill his PSU


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah it's a chaos he needs to sum it up and keep a system to discovering the issue. Bet he has something like 2 wires in his wall sockets instead of 3 or something and it's trying to kill his PSU


An ungrounded outlet wouldn't cause this. I had my rig on an ungrounded outlet for a few years before I discovered it.


----------



## TwoCables

I am going to spend some time looking at all the posts he has made on this issue so far (in this thread), and then I'll summarize it for you guys.


----------



## TwoCables

It would just be easier to go here:

http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/by_user/id/463884/thread/1492511/page/20


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It would just be easier to go here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/by_user/id/463884/thread/1492511/page/20


Thanks for doing that


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Thanks for doing that


You're welcome! I confess that I wanted to summarize everything you've done so far, but I was kind of weak from hunger. lol


----------



## sebna

Ok so 2nd T2 850 has just arrived. I have tested it and I will probably keep it pending more testing.

It is free from coil whine so it is free from defects unit but what I have also established is that slight buzzing has to be a family trait.

Based on my two units, EVGA T2 850W is NOT dead silent PSU in its design. However buzzing is faint and cannot be heard almost at all when on bench and when not having ear close to it (20-25cm or closer). I can imagine when in computer case and when vents facing opposite direction to a user that the buzzing will be undetectable even for me (I will comment on it with all certainty once in case and in position).

So my story with EVGA PSUs so far is a partial success only. Yes I feel like my 2nd unit is free from defects but at the same time unfortunately it means that I believe that they are not 0db by design.

My two Corasairs HX units (450 and 850W) are true 0db. So if you are looking for dead silent high performance unit able to provide high wattage maybe AX1200i or AX1500i would provide. They are really only other alternatives.

If I would have local shop having those in stock I would buy them for comparison. if I will not be able to hear buzzing of EVGA when in case and in position then I will probably keep it as I cannot be arsed to mail order another unit (AXi) and then send even more stuff back









Still, I am disappointed with T2, on acoustic side of things.


----------



## JackCY

Supernovas, superflowers, everything is super here.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

There's a reason we say "report and ignore" as much as we have before. Report, ignore, and, *do not state in any form, even on PM, that you are reporting someone, just file the report and leave it at that so we can deal with it.* This problem absolutely has to stop, that and trying to reign in a club's members without staff assistance. Backseat moderating isn't exactly advisable behavior, that's only more to clean up.

Now let's try this again, but this time, actually go over the problem like reasonable people instead of blindly attacking each other.


----------



## jopy

any idea why does my superflower 650 gold leadex 's fan doesnt spin at all?


----------



## JackCY

Is it in hybrid mode if it has one?

Otherwise the fan is disconnected or something is busted unless they have updated their products to be in hybrid mode all the time.


----------



## shilka

The Leadex Gold does have a hybrid fan switch on the back so is it set to eco or off?


If its set to eco thats why the fan does not spin


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Is it in hybrid mode if it has one?
> 
> Otherwise the fan is disconnected or something is busted unless they have updated their products to be in hybrid mode all the time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Leadex Gold does have a hybrid fan switch on the back so is it set to ero or off?
> 
> 
> If its set to eco thats why the fan does not spin










thks, switched to auto and it is spinning now.


----------



## JackCY

You can leave it in ECO for passive/hybrid mode, as in your rig will probably not make the fan spin up even at full load.


----------



## jopy

Under what conditions will it spin in eco mode?


----------



## JackCY

About 50% load or higher, it's temperature based so depends how hot your ambient is. At least it goes that way for the EVGA ones.


----------



## jopy

Lol have not seen it spin since gotten it setup 3 weeks ago.


----------



## shilka

I have mine set to auto as i would rather have it be on all the time
Its not loud even with my system at full load so i dont it being on.


----------



## Lither

I know the Eco mode will switch the fan on if the load is above 25% but what about Auto mode? Does the fan always spin at max or like PWM?


----------



## JackCY

I think it's voltage controlled I believe it's only 2pin fan, yes the speed varies based on temperatures. You can check your PSU box for the fan profile, EVGA has it on the box, or check a review at ambient temps = NOT hotbox like TPU.


----------



## Metros

So an update on the random freezing

Played for about a week now, without any freezing, however it just did it while I was playing Witcher 3 (no GPU overclock) it is in the same plug socket as well


----------



## CAxVIPER

So hopefully someone here can answer this. I'm sleeving my 850 G2 and didn't realize they had thrown a single 16 AWG wire in there. Does anyone know what PIN # it came out of on the 24 pin side?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So an update on the random freezing
> 
> Played for about a week now, without any freezing, however it just did it while I was playing Witcher 3 (no GPU overclock) it is in the same plug socket as well


How many different outlets have you tried? Of those outlets, how many of them are on different circuits?

Let's not forget that you don't have this problem at that other house.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> How many different outlets have you tried? Of those outlets, how many of them are on different circuits?
> 
> Let's not forget that you don't have this problem at that other house.


Three different outlets and two different circuits, getting an electrician this week to install a new outlet and put the computer on a dedicated circuit. If that does not work, going to buy a new PSU to test.

Not had a single freeze on Battlefront or CS GO though


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Three different outlets and two different circuits, getting an electrician this week to install a new outlet and put the computer on a dedicated circuit. If that does not work, going to buy a new PSU to test.
> 
> Not had a single freeze on Battlefront or CS GO though


Hmm. I think it would be easier to just get a new PSU first and then go from there.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hmm. I think it would be easier to just get a new PSU first and then go from there.


Seems strange how it went from a freeze a day (even causing a circuit to trip while playing Battlefront on a different plug socket and circuit) to only freezing once a week (so far) when it was put on a different circuit


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hmm. I think it would be easier to just get a new PSU first and then go from there.


Well saying that it just happened again, during Witcher 3. Not sure why it is doing it when it has not done it for 1 week

Had a power cut in the morning, however I doubt that affected it


----------



## JackCY

Buy a new house, that one is totally ghosted.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Buy a new house, that one is totally ghosted.


I cannot go back to the old house, due to it being too far away.


----------



## Metros

Could it be my RAM is overheating, after it froze I touched my RAM and it is so hot, although I expect it would have froze during the 100 passes on Intel Burn Test and many hours of Prime95, however it is hotter in this part of the country and room

I have Corsair Dominator 32GB 2666Mhz

Just restarted about 10 minutes after I closed Battlefront as well, not sure why it has suddenly started doing it, I have not changed anything (even turned my CPU overclock off again)


----------



## Thoth420

I'd buy a new house over gaming.... but I'm insane.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CAxVIPER*
> 
> So hopefully someone here can answer this. I'm sleeving my 850 G2 and didn't realize they had thrown a single 16 AWG wire in there. Does anyone know what PIN # it came out of on the 24 pin side?


No but really 18ga can take rated specs of 24 pin so I would not worry about it personally
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hmm. I think it would be easier to just get a new PSU first and then go from there.
> 
> 
> 
> Seems strange how it went from a freeze a day (even causing a circuit to trip while playing Battlefront on a different plug socket and circuit) to only freezing once a week (so far) when it was put on a different circuit
Click to expand...

I would not believe it has anything to go with psu still sounds driver related to me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Could it be my RAM is overheating, after it froze I touched my RAM and it is so hot, although I expect it would have froze during the 100 passes on Intel Burn Test and many hours of Prime95, however it is hotter in this part of the country and room
> 
> I have Corsair Dominator 32GB 2666Mhz
> 
> Just restarted about 10 minutes after I closed Battlefront as well, not sure why it has suddenly started doing it, I have not changed anything (even turned my CPU overclock off again)


It very well could. But why is your ram overheating? Afaik you really can't overheat ram... and I have used 1.9v on ddr3.....


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No but really 18ga can take rated specs of 24 pin so I would not worry about it personally
> I would not believe it has anything to go with psu still sounds driver related to me
> It very well could. But why is your ram overheating? Afaik you really can't overheat ram... and I have used 1.9v on ddr3.....


Do you mean GPU drivers, they have not changed, however I do not really want to upgrade drivers in case it gives me any other issues, although I could do it. I would use a surge protector, however I already have the computer plugged into an extension lead, so I cannot use two adapters

Going to find out what the electrician says about it, anything I need to know when he is here looking at it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Do you mean GPU drivers, they have not changed, however I do not really want to upgrade drivers in case it gives me any other issues, although I could do it. I would use a surge protector, however I already have the computer plugged into an extension lead, so I cannot use two adapters
> 
> Going to find out what the electrician says about it, anything I need to know when he is here looking at it.


There's nothing wrong with using a surge protector in that kind of a setup.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with using a surge protector in that kind of a setup.


I read that you cannot use a extension and surge protector, due to two devices being plugged into each other (which is not allowed in the UK it seems)

However an update, I have been playing Battlefront and Battlefield 4, fine without any freezes, then when I quit the game and look at Google Chrome with a few tabs open, it freezes within about 10 minutes, this has happened a few times now. Not sure why it would freeze after I finish playing the game.


----------



## JackCY

I think you should create a thread for your complex issue and narrow it down to what is the cause.

Extension cord has no electronics in it, it's just a piece of wire and connectors. I'm no UK laws expert but honestly that is just bonkers.
If you know what you are doing and have the proper cables you could have 10 5m extension cords in a line and it would work just fine.

Never used an electric lawn mower? Those cables are freakin' long and often not even just one, nor is the power draw of a lawn mower small I think.

We're happy to help you with PSU advices but there is nothing we can do to resolve your mystery ghost hunted house/PC issue.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I think you should create a thread for your complex issue and narrow it down to what is the cause.
> 
> Extension cord has no electronics in it, it's just a piece of wire and connectors. I'm no UK laws expert but honestly that is just bonkers.
> If you know what you are doing and have the proper cables you could have 10 5m extension cords in a line and it would work just fine.
> 
> Never used an electric lawn mower? Those cables are freakin' long and often not even just one, nor is the power draw of a lawn mower small I think.
> 
> We're happy to help you with PSU advices but there is nothing we can do to resolve your mystery ghost hunted house/PC issue.


I think I will buy a new PSU next week and try it


----------



## TwoCables

Lawfully speaking, I think it's a "fire hazard" to connect an extension cord to an extension cord to an extension cord, etc. This is because most extension cords (and power strips and surge protectors) have multiple outlets on them. This means that you could plug more things in and potentially have an overloading and overheating problem in not only the extension cords or power strips or surge protectors, but also at the outlet and with the wires in the wall. Thus, it's a fire hazard. This is why it's important to know what you are doing.

If you know and are careful to make sure that the total amount of power could never add up to overload any of the extension cords/power strips/surge protectors or the wall outlet and its wires, then you're fine.

So, let's say you do this:

*PC > surge protector > power strip > wall outlet*. That's what I'm doing. As long as what you're plugging in to the surge protector isn't overloading the power strip, then the power strip will be fine. As long as what you're plugging into both the surge protector and the power strip doesn't overload the power strip or the wall outlet and its wires, then you're fine. The people who *shouldn't* be doing this are those who think that if both your surge protector and power strip can handle up to 1875W, then that means you now have a 3750W capacity. So, they max out the surge protector and plug the remaining things into power strip, turn everything on, and then they wonder why their power strip melted and why they ended up with an electrical fire. They didn't know that they were limited to 1875W at the power strip.

You could extend the connections as far as you want, just as long as you know you'll never overload anything. So, you could do *PC > surge protector > power strip > power strip > power strip> a high-end 12 AWG extension cord > wall outlet*. The best way to avoid a fire hazard is by only using the surge protector in this chain and just use the power strips as ridiculous extension cords. lol You could still use the power strips for other things, but you have to do some math to make sure you're not overloading anything.


----------



## Mega Man

Not in the us you can put 50 outlets on a single circuit the circuit breaker will protect it. Speaking of Osha at a job site. No you can't but that is just professionally.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not in the us you can put 50 outlets on a single circuit the circuit breaker will protect it. Speaking of Osha at a job site. No you can't but that is just professionally.


Yeah, but I'm only talking about having multiple surge protectors, power strips and extension cords on one outlet. I am only assuming though that you can melt these things if they are overloaded before the outlet.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, but I'm only talking about having multiple surge protectors, power strips and extension cords on one outlet. I am only assuming though that you can melt these things if they are overloaded before the outlet.


1) you know how much power you are drawing from those extensions and wall socket
2) that socket has a breaker which usually is applied to the whole circuit as in a collection of wall sockets in the room or even multiple rooms, 10A, 16A or such

So before you kill some cheap extension cord using your 2kW Leadex or mixer or power tool or who knows, the breaker will trip sooner more than likely.

You may try connect 20 500W gaming PCs to one wall socket with extension cords but a normal/home circuit breaker is not gonna take it and your little LAN party will have to be split across several circuit breakers. But I guess people who remember LAN parties know it already.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 1) you know how much power you are drawing from those extensions and wall socket
> 2) that socket has a breaker which usually is applied to the whole circuit as in a collection of wall sockets in the room or even multiple rooms, 10A, 16A or such
> 
> So before you kill some cheap extension cord using your 2kW Leadex or mixer or power tool or who knows, the breaker will trip sooner more than likely.
> 
> You may try connect 20 500W gaming PCs to one wall socket with extension cords but a normal/home circuit breaker is not gonna take it and your little LAN party will have to be split across several circuit breakers. But I guess people who remember LAN parties know it already.


I know that (I think everyone knows that), but what if the circuit breaker fails to cut the power quickly enough or at all? What if you have fuses instead? What if your home's electrical system isn't quite good to begin with and allows for overloading? Yes, most homes have a properly-working setup and good circuit breakers that trip when they're supposed to, but failures can and do happen.


----------



## jopy

I have an observation,my superflower leadex. When powered off , if the psu remains hot even after a few hrs later, does it means its still drawing power?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> I have an observation,my superflower leadex. When powered off , if the psu remains hot even after a few hrs later, does it means its still drawing power?


it's always drawing some kind of power while it is connected to the motherboard but it shouldn't be much unless you have the actual power switch off depending on which PSU you have. The USB is active depending on your motherboard, do you have a lot of things plugged in? I charge my gopro cameras on one of my computer while it is powered off using a usb header.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> I have an observation,my superflower leadex. When powered off , if the psu remains hot even after a few hrs later, does it means its still drawing power?


What do you mean by "hot"? Do you mean it is too hot to touch it? Do you mean it's warm, like human skin temperature? I would think that after a few hours, it should be cool to the touch, but I have never felt my PSU hours after super heavy demanding use.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> it's always drawing some kind of power while it is connected to the motherboard but it shouldn't be much unless you have the actual power switch off depending on which PSU you have. The USB is active depending on your motherboard, do you have a lot of things plugged in? I charge my gopro cameras on one of my computer while it is powered off using a usb header.


a wireless mouse, keyboard, drawing tablet, thats about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you mean by "hot"? Do you mean it is too hot to touch it? Do you mean it's warm, like human skin temperature? I would think that after a few hours, it should be cool to the touch, but I have never felt my PSU hours after super heavy demanding use.


like lukewarm? Above ambient temperature 40ish degree , when its supposed to be cold.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> a wireless mouse, keyboard, drawing tablet, thats about it.
> like lukewarm? Above ambient temperature 40ish degree , when its supposed to be cold.


Oh, that's not hot at all. You have to remember that PSU's housing is metal, the heatsinks are metal, a huge amount of heat is generated when the PSU is heavily loaded, and it's inside of a computer case where there's absolutely zero airflow when the computer is off. So, it's going to take a long time to cool down to room temperature (where it feels cold to the touch).


----------



## jopy

i could shut off and leave it overnight and its still feels warm, which it is not supposed to.

If i unplug the power socket, this doesnt happens.

Im asking this becos im not sure if it is the norm or something is wrong with my unit.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I cannot go back to the old house, due to it being too far away.


Hey Metros. I read your posts, but may have missed this. How old are the 2 homes you've used and tested your system? Curious. If it's not cost prohibitive, consider getting a UPS for your hardware. You can view some information about your electrical system (output voltage), including the load of your system with one and it provides, according to the manufacturer, a more stable electrical system. According to APC, "...Power conditioning: Protects connected loads from surges, spikes, lightning, and other power disturbances..." I have them on all my sensitive electronic equipment as it protects them from power outages and the worst of all those rolling brownouts. I got some damage once during a thunderstorm, which opened my eyes.

The UPS can be useful when the system crashes, you can check the UPS state at that time (i.e. if there was an incident). I use APC NS 1250 for my computers - not sure what's available in your country though. Just something to consider if the house is old and has an older electrical system.

Note: When I first tried to play the Witcher 3, it killed, at least that is what I say, my 980Ti. More likely a coincidence though, but I had no issues until I opened that game.

Good luck


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> i could shut off and leave it overnight and its still feels warm, which it is not supposed to.
> 
> If i unplug the power socket, this doesnt happens.
> 
> Im asking this becos im not sure if it is the norm or something is wrong with my unit.


I've never tested that, but without testing, I would think that it should be cool or room temperature if shut down overnight and definitely not hot.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> i could shut off and leave it overnight and its still feels warm, which it is not supposed to.
> 
> If i unplug the power socket, this doesnt happens.
> 
> Im asking this becos im not sure if it is the norm or something is wrong with my unit.


I run my 850 G2 passive and while it can get warm to touch under prolonged GPU load, overnight it cools down no problem.

Right now I have no GPU so I can't test, at the moment it's doing web browsing and the PSU is not steel cold but not warm either it's at a point where it's about the temperature of my cold hands. Maybe the top side inside the case is hotter, I think it usually is. But it definitely doesn't hold heat for hours on end.

The power draw on soft power off should be close to none.
Do you have the SF with lighted connectors? Do they keep shining when you turn off your PC? As in soft power off?

In soft power off the draw is like <1W when no USB devices are being powered. Maybe you have some USB power hungry device.


----------



## R3apR369

Hello guys, a question to those that own the Supernova G2 750 and the Asus R9 390X:

How are you guys connecting to the 8pin gpu port since the 6+2 vga cable isnt compatible? Is using an adapter the only way to make it work?


----------



## JackCY

What?
6+2 from PSU connected to 8pin on GPU no problem why not?

For something like a 280x it's 6+8 = 6+6+2pin. 1 cable for the whole GPU.


----------



## R3apR369

The Asus r9 390x is also 8 + 6 pin, but the Evga Supernova 750w doesn't supply 1 cable that can go into both the gpu slots, nor did my GPU. The 6pin slot is fine, I can use one 6+2 cable for that. The 8pin slot on the other-hand, requires that I use an adapter, because the 6+2 vga cable doesn't have the same orientation as the 8pin port on the GPU.









The GPU came with an adapter, but only for the 8pin gpu port, and it's not sleeved.





















You're lucky that the 280x came with a gpu > psu cable of it's own.


----------



## JackCY

6+2 pin cable goes into 8pin on the GPU, otherwise provide pictures of your cable connectors and GPU so that we can see it doesn't match because it does normally.
With 750 G2 you run 6+2 cable into 6pin and 6+2 cable into 8pin, done.
No adapters no nothing.


----------



## R3apR369

6+2 cable


----------



## R3apR369

The two bottom left should be square-square, but its square-round.


----------



## JackCY

It fits no?









I have the same 6+2pin on my cable on both ends 8pin usually goes into PSU and 6+2pin into GPU but I bet they are even turnable around though that's not how they are meant.

Your 6+2pin cable connector should fit both 6pin on GPU and 8pin on GPU.
Round fits into square.


----------



## R3apR369

Round does fot into the square, but is that safe? Heh.


----------



## JackCY

Yes. I have the same cables and I used them on ASUS 280x DC2T. I just checked my unused cables out of my 850 G2 box.
You will see those LEDs on GPU to light up green when PCIe power connector is connected at least that's what my 280x did. So you will have 2 green LEDs near the connectors shining when done right. When power is missing then probably red LEDs.


----------



## R3apR369

Id like to get a second opinion on this before placing wrong shapes in the wrong holes. Even if it is only 1 pin.







Thanks for all the feedback though.


----------



## R3apR369

Wait...wait....wait...the round shape = universal? As in it can go in either round or square?! Is this true?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hey Metros. I read your posts, but may have missed this. How old are the 2 homes you've used and tested your system? Curious. If it's not cost prohibitive, consider getting a UPS for your hardware. You can view some information about your electrical system (output voltage), including the load of your system with one and it provides, according to the manufacturer, a more stable electrical system. According to APC, "...Power conditioning: Protects connected loads from surges, spikes, lightning, and other power disturbances..." I have them on all my sensitive electronic equipment as it protects them from power outages and the worst of all those rolling brownouts. I got some damage once during a thunderstorm, which opened my eyes.
> 
> The UPS can be useful when the system crashes, you can check the UPS state at that time (i.e. if there was an incident). I use APC NS 1250 for my computers - not sure what's available in your country though. Just something to consider if the house is old and has an older electrical system.
> 
> Note: When I first tried to play the Witcher 3, it killed, at least that is what I say, my 980Ti. More likely a coincidence though, but I had no issues until I opened that game.
> 
> Good luck


That I do not know, the one I am in now is 20 years old (electrician said it uses one of the first consumer boxes released) I am getting a new plug and putting it on a new circuit soon and I might be getting a new consumer box.

I could get a new UPS (I do want one) however I will buy another PSU to make sure that is not the issue

Seems strange how a lot of restarts happen when I close the game and view Chrome tabs for like 10 minutes, along with some during gaming. I will start using Edge, as I normally have internet browsers open (Chrome) when I play games


----------



## Methodical

If it's an electrical issue, it can exhibit some strange things. Make sure to get a 20 amp circuit.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> If it's an electrical issue, it can exhibit some strange things. Make sure to get a 20 amp circuit.


I do not think I have had a freeze while playing CS GO though


----------



## TwoCables

Metros, I'm not sure if this will be of any help, but I figure that it might be worth mentioning just in case it can apply to your situation somehow:

Back when Intel's Sandy Bridge CPUs came out, instability of *any* kind under light loads and while idling was usually due to using an Offset voltage with C3 and C6 enabled. The solution is to just disable C3 and C6 or stop using an Offset voltage because the problem was caused by the voltage being too low under light loads and while idling.

I don't remember what CPU you have, but perhaps this might help. I don't know. I'm almost grabbing at straws now.


----------



## R3apR369

Got my answer solved through EVGA tech support. I was told that since the voltages are same, it is okay to place the rounded shaped pin (+2 wire of 6+2 cable) in the square hole on the 8pin port for the GPU. This is common with CPU port on the motherboard as well.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3apR369*
> 
> Got my answer solved through EVGA tech support. I was told that since the voltages are same, it is okay to place the rounded shaped pin (+2 wire of 6+2 cable) in the square hole on the 8pin port for the GPU. This is common with CPU port on the motherboard as well.


Wow. Nice. Thank you for the update R3apR369!


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Metros, I'm not sure if this will be of any help, but I figure that it might be worth mentioning just in case it can apply to your situation somehow:
> 
> Back when Intel's Sandy Bridge CPUs came out, instability of *any* kind under light loads and while idling was usually due to using an Offset voltage with C3 and C6 enabled. The solution is to just disable C3 and C6 or stop using an Offset voltage because the problem was caused by the voltage being too low under light loads and while idling.
> 
> I don't remember what CPU you have, but perhaps this might help. I don't know. I'm almost grabbing at straws now.


I have a 5930K, never looked at C states, what are the disadvantages of turning the C states off


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I have a 5930K, never looked at C states, what are the disadvantages of turning the C states off


For Sandy Bridge, if using an Offset voltage it would result in slightly higher voltages under light loads and while idling. It wasn't a massive difference, but it was just enough that all instabilities while under light loads and while idling went away completely. Personally though, I strongly prefer a fixed voltage because I get slightly better stability and even slightly better performance.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> For Sandy Bridge, if using an Offset voltage it would result in slightly higher voltages under light loads and while idling. It wasn't a massive difference, but it was just enough that all instabilities while under light loads and while idling went away completely. Personally though, I strongly prefer a fixed voltage because I get slightly better stability and even slightly better performance.


So just C3 and C6 I should disable


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So just C3 and C6 I should disable


So are you using an Offset voltage?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So are you using an Offset voltage?


This is happening at stock CPU speeds, so there is no Offset voltage


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> This is happening at stock CPU speeds, so there is no Offset voltage


Then disabling C3 and C6 won't do anything for you. As I've been saying, this is for when overclocking with an offset voltage. If you're not even using an Offset voltage, then disabling C3 and C6 won't change anything.


----------



## JackCY

It does. C states work irregardless of adaptive or manual setting of Vcore or Vring.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It does. C states work irregardless of adaptive or manual setting of Vcore or Vring.


No. When using a fixed voltage, it doesn't change dynamically based on CPU load, not even with C3 and C6 enabled. The only way to see the voltage change dynamically based on load (such as light load or idling) is by using an Offset voltage. When both C3 and C6 are disabled while using an Offset voltage, the voltage doesn't dip down quite as far as it does when C3 and C6 are enabled. This is why it's recommended to disable C3 and C6 when using an Offset. When using a fixed voltage, enabling them or disabling them makes no difference.

Try it for yourself: enable SpeedStep, C1E, C3 and C6. For me, the only thing that changes is the clock speed, and it dynamically adjusts based on load. The only way to get the voltage to do the same is by using an Offset voltage. That's where C3 and C6 can come into play, and that's the only time.


----------



## JackCY

There is no offset voltage control mode, only adaptive = auto and override/manual on HW/DC and such. You can set offset all the time in any mode. And VID only changes in adaptive yes but the Vcore and Vring does change in all modes as long as EIST and C states are enabled. VID != Vcore.


----------



## Metros

So I tried GPU drivers, as someone asked me to check and I still get freezes

So it is not worth me doing C states then or should I try it

Got an electrician coming next week to install a new plug socket and put it on a different circuit and he might replace the consumer box (fuse box) as well

Also will all these random restarts damage something else like the AIO pump, fans and SSDs or is it fine to give it another one or two weeks while I wait for the electrician


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So I tried GPU drivers, as someone asked me to check and I still get freezes
> 
> So it is not worth me doing C states then or should I try it
> 
> Got an electrician coming next week to install a new plug socket and put it on a different circuit and he might replace the consumer box (fuse box) as well
> 
> Also will all these random restarts damage something else like the AIO pump, fans and SSDs or is it fine to give it another one or two weeks while I wait for the electrician


The only thing I can see getting 'damaged' is the operating system. To avoid this 'damage', just make absolutely sure you perform a proper restart in Windows immediately following an unexpected shutdown because the more times in a row Windows is improperly shut down like that, the greater the chances are of critical Windows files getting corrupted.

So in other words, let's say an unexpected restart or shut down just occurred just a couple of seconds ago. When Windows is done starting back up, choose 'Restart' before you do anything else.

I learned this the hard way when I learned how to overclock; I had several BSODs in a row while learning, and eventually Windows became severely corrupt.

Anyway, it would be harmless to disable C3 and C6. I'm honestly surprised you haven't tried it by now even though now I'm saying it likely won't make any difference because the problem you're experiencing seems to be caused by something very different. Like you said in the beginning, this doesn't happen at that other house. So, I think getting a dedicated 20A circuit would be good. I don't see a need to replace the circuit breaker panel though, unless it really is a *FUSE* box. You don't want fuses because that's extremely old technology. You want good circuit breakers.


----------



## JackCY

Another option is get a solar panel and batteries


----------



## Mega Man

Or. Ups.

Far cheaper probably


----------



## TwoCables

If the electricity coming out of the wall outlet is of very low quality, then I'd think that would shorten the life of the UPS and eventually put him back to square 1.


----------



## Mega Man

Cheaper to verify however. Usually won't be fixed by dedicated line. Usually is a problem with grid power


----------



## Metros

Anyone know a good UPS for 1600W then


----------



## Mega Man

iirc your in EU and no i dont know any EU shops, but they make several for that wattage .


----------



## Kimir

An UPS up to 1000w (1600va) is quite affordable , but when you go higher like 1600w (2000va) you will the price go crazy. I mean my Eaton Ellipse ECO 1600 USB is 250€, looking at the same brand for a 2000va one and it's 760€ (Eaton Onduleur 5PX 2200).
I've looked on such unit in the past but the price was just not ok with me. The one I looked at are those:

-Emerson Liebert PSI 2200VA
-Eaton Onduleur 5PX 2200
-APC Smart-UPS SRT 2200VA


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The only thing I can see getting 'damaged' is the operating system. To avoid this 'damage', just make absolutely sure you perform a proper restart in Windows immediately following an unexpected shutdown because the more times in a row Windows is improperly shut down like that, the greater the chances are of critical Windows files getting corrupted.
> 
> So in other words, let's say an unexpected restart or shut down just occurred just a couple of seconds ago. When Windows is done starting back up, choose 'Restart' before you do anything else.
> 
> I learned this the hard way when I learned how to overclock; I had several BSODs in a row while learning, and eventually Windows became severely corrupt.
> 
> Anyway, it would be harmless to disable C3 and C6. I'm honestly surprised you haven't tried it by now even though now I'm saying it likely won't make any difference because the problem you're experiencing seems to be caused by something very different. Like you said in the beginning, this doesn't happen at that other house. So, I think getting a dedicated 20A circuit would be good. I don't see a need to replace the circuit breaker panel though, unless it really is a *FUSE* box. You don't want fuses because that's extremely old technology. You want good circuit breakers.


I am getting a 16AMP 230V dedicated circuit, so that can handle 3680W, that should be fine, unless I really need a 20AMP circuit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> An UPS up to 1000w (1600va) is quite affordable , but when you go higher like 1600w (2000va) you will the price go crazy. I mean my Eaton Ellipse ECO 1600 USB is 250€, looking at the same brand for a 2000va one and it's 760€ (Eaton Onduleur 5PX 2200).
> I've looked on such unit in the past but the price was just not ok with me. The one I looked at are those:
> 
> -Emerson Liebert PSI 2200VA
> -Eaton Onduleur 5PX 2200
> -APC Smart-UPS SRT 2200VA


Thanks, I will have a look at those, although I am not sure I want to spend £700 on a UPS, only need like 3 minutes up time


----------



## TwoCables

Oh I forgot you had 230V.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I am getting a 16AMP 230V dedicated circuit, so that can handle 3680W, that should be fine, unless I really need a 20AMP circuit
> Thanks, I will have a look at those, although I am not sure I want to spend £700 on a UPS, only need like 3 minutes up time


I just read something that might be affecting your BSOD. What ever BIOS you have, flash it again from a fresh download with the exact version. Make sure when you reboot it does not give you the message that says "updating bios" at any point.


----------



## JackCY

Why are people suggesting updating UEFI all the time? Last time I've seen that it ruined a RAID as when you update you lose all settings and can possibly brick your whole system. Unless you have dual UEFI and everything backed up I would advice against updating UEFI just for fun as it really solves nothing except what is often written in the updates for new UEFI.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Why are people suggesting updating UEFI all the time? Last time I've seen that it ruined a RAID as when you update you lose all settings and can possibly brick your whole system. Unless you have dual UEFI and everything backed up I would advice against updating UEFI just for fun as it really solves nothing except what is often written in the updates for new UEFI.


he's having some strange crashing issue and trying to fix it, it more than qualifies for an update/refresh. I don't understand how you can brick your motherboard with the flash back USB? Does that not work? I would think bricking your system with a manufacturer release BIOS would qualify for an RMA.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I just read something that might be affecting your BSOD. What ever BIOS you have, flash it again from a fresh download with the exact version. Make sure when you reboot it does not give you the message that says "updating bios" at any point.


It might do it, however there are other things I need to try first like getting a new plug socket


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Why are people suggesting updating UEFI all the time? Last time I've seen that it ruined a RAID as when you update you lose all settings and can possibly brick your whole system. Unless you have dual UEFI and everything backed up I would advice against updating UEFI just for fun as it really solves nothing except what is often written in the updates for new UEFI.


I can attest to BIOS/UEFI updates bricking a RAID array. I have actually found the UEFI system in general to be a hazardous to a raid array. I lost my array once after a BIOS update and another time simply when changing to boot priority of drives. After I changed the boot priority I couldn't get the "Windows Boot Manager" option back in the boot menu and had to reinstall windows all over again. Now I use Acronis True Image to make a whole disc backup. It saved me in one of the above instances. I just rebuilt the array, launched the Acronis Recovery Media from a USB stick and completely restored my system. I think its pretty wonderful software. But yeah, I am now much more careful about updating my BIOS and altering boot options.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I can attest to BIOS/UEFI updates bricking a RAID array. I have actually found the UEFI system in general to be a hazardous to a raid array. I lost my array once after a BIOS update and another time simply when changing to boot priority of drives. After I changed the boot priority I couldn't get the "Windows Boot Manager" option back in the boot menu and had to reinstall windows all over again. Now I use Acronis True Image to make a whole disc backup. It saved me in one of the above instances. I just rebuilt the array, launched the Acronis Recovery Media from a USB stick and completely restored my system. I think its pretty wonderful software. But yeah, I am now much more careful about updating my BIOS and altering boot options.


I would never update the bios while using raid and not expect to lose my data but then again I never use that fake software raid ever I just don't trust it and don't want to start now and on my servers I use hardware raid. I never save anything important on my computer, it's all on the server backed up every day.

With all that said, this is a really good discussion between you and JackCY because many people use it and feel safe with it but they could lose data by updating. I still don't see it bricking the MB just the raid config unless you lose power in the middle of it.

edited for better clarity.


----------



## JackCY

He's tried so many things, should have written it down in a problem thread of it's own too, but I don't did that yet. Claims that one location is working second isn't so it's pretty much to a house issue and not computer issue anymore. Though I would still advise on making sure that is true unless it was thoroughly confirmed. The power grid would have to be pretty messed up for the issue to get past the modern PSUs and all their filtering and stabilization. He needs to narrow it down to find the cause of the undesirable effect, we can't really advice/help otherwise.

On the RAID topic, you can update UEFI but you need to setup the same 100% exact RAID again same settings, drive order, all of it. There are some tools to even get the settings back and such. I don't use RAID, but some people do:






So yeah, think for yourself before acting on random online advises


----------



## Artah

I'm really curious about this though, I want to know what fixes it so I can apply it to anyone else having similar issues to help them out.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It might do it, however there are other things I need to try first like getting a new plug socket


I don't know if I asked already but do you have SLI enabled? If you do try running it without for a test also and maybe use DDU to completely remove your graphics drivers and re-install it.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I don't know if I asked already but do you have SLI enabled? If you do try running it without for a test also and maybe use DDU to completely remove your graphics drivers and re-install it.


Sure I can do that

I managed to play 4-6 hours of Battlefield 4 today and it did not crash, played some Battlefront (did not crash) then quit the game, went and viewed a tech website and got a restart

I will be doing C states and turning off SLI tomorrow, then will wait for the electrician to come and put in a new plug socket


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I don't know if I asked already but do you have SLI enabled? If you do try running it without for a test also and maybe use DDU to completely remove your graphics drivers and re-install it.


Still done it while turning SLI off, Battlefront was fine, quit the game, went to Chrome 5 minutes later, restart, then I can if I view the same tabs again, it is fine


----------



## TwoCables

Just go ahead and disable C3 and C6 right now. Why wait? We need to experiment with everything here.

If this doesn't make any difference, then disable SpeedStep (leave C3 and C6 disabled). If that doesn't make any difference, then disable C1E - leaving SpeedStep, C3 and C6 disabled.

If that doesn't make any difference, then do whatever you need to do in order to make sure the voltage doesn't go down while idling or under light loads. I think the problem is that the CPU isn't getting enough power in light-loading and idling situations. Think about it...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Why are people suggesting updating UEFI all the time? Last time I've seen that it ruined a RAID as when you update you lose all settings and can possibly brick your whole system. Unless you have dual UEFI and everything backed up I would advice against updating UEFI just for fun as it really solves nothing except what is often written in the updates for new UEFI.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Why are people suggesting updating UEFI all the time? Last time I've seen that it ruined a RAID as when you update you lose all settings and can possibly brick your whole system. Unless you have dual UEFI and everything backed up I would advice against updating UEFI just for fun as it really solves nothing except what is often written in the updates for new UEFI.
> 
> 
> 
> I can attest to BIOS/UEFI updates bricking a RAID array. I have actually found the UEFI system in general to be a hazardous to a raid array. I lost my array once after a BIOS update and another time simply when changing to boot priority of drives. After I changed the boot priority I couldn't get the "Windows Boot Manager" option back in the boot menu and had to reinstall windows all over again. Now I use Acronis True Image to make a whole disc backup. It saved me in one of the above instances. I just rebuilt the array, launched the Acronis Recovery Media from a USB stick and completely restored my system. I think its pretty wonderful software. But yeah, I am now much more careful about updating my BIOS and altering boot options.
Click to expand...

All I hear is people don't know what they are doing (people who use this crap. Not directed at the posters per say )

I can't say this enough.
DON'T USE MOBO RAID, IT IS *ABSOLUTE TRASH*

If you would like to use it you are using a ghetto rigged setup of something made for servers so someone can feel so happy about epeen read and write speeds. And if you use a software solution.... wow I can't even fathom what to say to you.

There is a reason server solutions would never,EVER use such crap.

If you want raid. Get a real raid card with real on board ram and a backup battery that is large enough to actually write all data.

And Ironically I see myself as knowing literally nothing about raid, which I learned from actually researching this stuff when I heard ooooo high read and write.

Wait I'll be a mind reader ready?

Mobo and / or software raid works just fine









By the way, if when you see the price for a real raid card all you can say is " that's to expensive " then Yea. Don't raid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I can attest to BIOS/UEFI updates bricking a RAID array. I have actually found the UEFI system in general to be a hazardous to a raid array. I lost my array once after a BIOS update and another time simply when changing to boot priority of drives. After I changed the boot priority I couldn't get the "Windows Boot Manager" option back in the boot menu and had to reinstall windows all over again. Now I use Acronis True Image to make a whole disc backup. It saved me in one of the above instances. I just rebuilt the array, launched the Acronis Recovery Media from a USB stick and completely restored my system. I think its pretty wonderful software. But yeah, I am now much more careful about updating my BIOS and altering boot options.
> 
> 
> 
> I would never update the bios while using raid and not expect to lose my data but then again I never use that fake software raid ever I just don't trust it and don't want to start now and on my servers I use hardware raid. I never save anything important on my computer, it's all on the server backed up every day.
> 
> With all that said, this is a really good discussion between you and JackCY because many people use it and feel safe with it but they could lose data by updating. I still don't see it bricking the MB just the raid config unless you lose power in the middle of it.
> 
> edited for better clarity.
Click to expand...

Mostly right
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> He's tried so many things, should have written it down in a problem thread of it's own too, but I don't did that yet. Claims that one location is working second isn't so it's pretty much to a house issue and not computer issue anymore. Though I would still advise on making sure that is true unless it was thoroughly confirmed. The power grid would have to be pretty messed up for the issue to get past the modern PSUs and all their filtering and stabilization. He needs to narrow it down to find the cause of the undesirable effect, we can't really advice/help otherwise.
> 
> On the RAID topic, you can update UEFI but you need to setup the same 100% exact RAID again same settings, drive order, all of it. There are some tools to even get the settings back and such. I don't use RAID, but some people do:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, think for yourself before acting on random online advises


This was literally the worst video I have ever seen on this topic.

The single worst.

I literally heard mission critical and no backup in the same sentence. and mission critical and software raid? Wow. Then he panics and tries to save said data? Panic and save should be never be in the same sentence together involving mission critical.

Sure you can argue he teaches others how to prevent. I would argue he enables everyone to be another victim. He does literally everything wrong. He didn't even have any redundancy (not talking about backups but no mirroring or parity.... do you even want me to continue on why he is fail so bad? )

This brings this to my mind









This is not ment to offend. But to teach.


----------



## Metros

So would it just be easier to disable all the C-States, to make sure it is not them, also what about C1E


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So would it just be easier to disable all the C-States, to make sure it is not them


Just do it because it's extremely easy to do and it's not time-consuming in the least bit. It's literally the easiest thing that you could possibly do here. Why haven't you done it yet?

So, as I posted before:

"Just go ahead and disable C3 and C6 right now. Why wait? We need to experiment with everything here.

If this doesn't make any difference, then disable SpeedStep (leave C3 and C6 disabled). If that doesn't make any difference, then disable C1E - leaving SpeedStep, C3 and C6 disabled.

If that doesn't make any difference, then do whatever you need to do in order to make sure the voltage doesn't go down while idling or under light loads. I think the problem is that the CPU isn't getting enough power in light-loading and idling situations. Think about it..."

There's no harm in experimenting with these settings. If this is the culprit, then think of the money you'll avoid wasting by *not* having an electrician come to your house.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Just do it because it's extremely easy to do and it's not time-consuming in the least bit. It's literally the easiest thing that you could possibly do here. Why haven't you done it yet?
> 
> So, as I posted before:
> 
> "Just go ahead and disable C3 and C6 right now. Why wait? We need to experiment with everything here.
> 
> If this doesn't make any difference, then disable SpeedStep (leave C3 and C6 disabled). If that doesn't make any difference, then disable C1E - leaving SpeedStep, C3 and C6 disabled.
> 
> If that doesn't make any difference, then do whatever you need to do in order to make sure the voltage doesn't go down while idling or under light loads. I think the problem is that the CPU isn't getting enough power in light-loading and idling situations. Think about it..."
> 
> There's no harm in experimenting with these settings. If this is the culprit, then think of the money you'll avoid wasting by *not* having an electrician come to your house.


C-States were off by default, so I have turned them on and will test now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> C-States were off by default, so I have turned them on and will test now


Now we're being scientific. It's very wise to be scientific (to be thorough and test everything), but as I said, we needed them to be disabled. We need do what it takes to make sure the voltage doesn't go down AT ALL in light-loading conditions or idle conditions. Enabling the C-states will have the opposite effect of what we're after, just as I explained.

Let's do this: open CPU-Z and watch the core voltage. Watch the voltage while idling and then put some load on the CPU, like Prime95 or something. What happens?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Now we're being scientific. It's very wise to be scientific (to be thorough and test everything), but as I said, we needed them to be disabled. We need do what it takes to make sure the voltage doesn't go down AT ALL in light-loading conditions or idle conditions. Enabling the C-states will have the opposite effect of what we're after, just as I explained.
> 
> Let's do this: open CPU-Z and watch the core voltage. Watch the voltage while idling and then put some load on the CPU, like Prime95 or something. What happens?


Sure, I will do that when I get home, going to vote for the EU referendum soon









Thanks for all your help


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Sure, I will do that when I get home, going to vote for the EU referendum soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help


Oh I think I figured out why you haven't done it yet. You're like, always super busy.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh I think I figured out why you haven't done it yet. You're like, always super busy.


No, the fact that it takes hours of playing games to test one thing otherwise it will not work, if you only play for like an hour and quit the game, it is normally fine

Enabling C-States did not work, working with your method now


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> No, the fact that it takes hours of playing games to test one thing otherwise it will not work, if you only play for like an hour and quit the game, it is normally fine
> 
> Enabling C-States did not work, working with your method now


Normally, if the problem is due to the CPU's core voltage being too low in light-loading conditions and while idling, then it doesn't matter what you do before the light-loading or idling (like, it doesn't matter if you've been gaming all day or just doing light things all day). When this is the culprit, it's usually fixed by doing whatever it takes to increase the core voltage in those light-loading and idling conditions, and enabling C-states will have the opposite effect as that. So, I knew that enabling the C-states wouldn't do anything - but as computer scientists, we need to try just about everything.

Anyway, I still have a question. It's here:

"Let's do this: open CPU-Z and watch the core voltage. Watch the voltage while idling and then put some load on the CPU, like Prime95 or something. What happens?"


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Normally, if the problem is due to the CPU's core voltage being too low in light-loading conditions and while idling, then it doesn't matter what you do before the light-loading or idling (like, it doesn't matter if you've been gaming all day or just doing light things all day). When this is the culprit, it's usually fixed by doing whatever it takes to increase the core voltage in those light-loading and idling conditions, and enabling C-states will have the opposite effect as that. So, I knew that enabling the C-states wouldn't do anything - but as computer scientists, we need to try just about everything.
> 
> Anyway, I still have a question. It's here:
> 
> "Let's do this: open CPU-Z and watch the core voltage. Watch the voltage while idling and then put some load on the CPU, like Prime95 or something. What happens?"


Yeah. just done it

This is the result (10 passes on Intel Burn Test) got a driver crash half way in the test (did recover) also, only once, due to ending the test while it just started did the voltage drop from CPU VCORE 0.976V to 0.968V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Yeah. just done it
> 
> This is the result (10 passes on Intel Burn Test) got a driver crash half way in the test (did recover) also, only once, due to ending the test while it just started did the voltage drop from CPU VCORE 0.976V to 0.968V


Even though it's not CPU-Z like I asked, it's probably good enough since it's made by CPUID.

Anyway, so yeah, we need to prevent that voltage from dropping down like that just to see if that's the culprit. I know how to do that for Sandy and Ivy Bridge, but I don't know beyond that. Regardless, I want to see what happens for you when your voltage is constantly reading at the maximum performance level. Like you have observed, this only happens in light-loading and idling conditions. Right?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Normally, if the problem is due to the CPU's core voltage being too low in light-loading conditions and while idling, then it doesn't matter what you do before the light-loading or idling (like, it doesn't matter if you've been gaming all day or just doing light things all day). When this is the culprit, it's usually fixed by doing whatever it takes to increase the core voltage in those light-loading and idling conditions, and enabling C-states will have the opposite effect as that. So, I knew that enabling the C-states wouldn't do anything - but as computer scientists, we need to try just about everything.
> 
> Anyway, I still have a question. It's here:
> 
> "Let's do this: open CPU-Z and watch the core voltage. Watch the voltage while idling and then put some load on the CPU, like Prime95 or something. What happens?"


Idle voltages have not changed at all (apart from VIN, AVCC and 3VCC)


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Even though it's not CPU-Z, it's probably good enough since it's made by CPUID.
> 
> Anyway, so yeah, we need to prevent that voltage from dropping down like that just to see if that's the culprit. I know how to do that for Sandy and Ivy Bridge, but I don't know beyond that. Regardless, I want to see what happens for you when your voltage is constantly reading at the maximum performance level.


I will disable Intel Speedstep now and test it again, although during the whole test the voltages did not change (only when I quickly ended it at the start)

Also not sure I can disable each C-State, so that is with them all off including C1E

I have no idea why I got a driver crash


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I will disable Intel Speedstep now and test it again, although during the whole test the voltages did not change (only when I quickly ended it at the start)
> 
> Also not sure I can disable each C-State, so that is with them all off including C1E
> 
> I have no idea why I got a driver crash


I'm looking at your motherboard's manual right now, and the only things that relate to what I'm talking about are named precisely as follows:


Intel C-State
C1E Support
Package C State Limit (only available when *Intel C-State* is enabled)
EIST (this is Enhanced Intel SpeedStep)

Disable "Intel C-State", make sure C1E is disabled, and disable EIST. The default settings for these are Enabled, Disabled, and Enabled - in respective order to the way that I just mentioned them in this sentence.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm looking at your motherboard's manual right now, and the only things that relate to what I'm talking about are named precisely as follows:
> 
> Intel C-State
> C1E Support
> Package C State Limit _(only available when *Intel C-State* is enabled)_
> EIST _(this is Enhanced Intel SpeedStep)_
> Disable "Intel C-State", make sure C1E is disabled, and disable EIST. The default settings for these are Enabled, Disabled, and Enabled - in respective order to the way that I just mentioned them in this sentence.


Disabled all those (as C-State was disabled, so was Package C-Sate limit)

This is the result after another 10 passes of Intel Burn Test


----------



## TwoCables

Ok, so then what does CPU-Z show you for a core voltage for heavy loading and idling?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ok, so then what does CPU-Z show you for a core voltage for heavy loading and idling?


Idle 1.101V

Load 1.101V


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Idle 1.101V
> 
> Load 1.101V


Then I'd like to hear from someone who knows these CPUs because I don't know whether this is normal or messed up.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Then I'd like to hear from someone who knows these CPUs because I don't know whether this is normal or messed up.


that looks normal with no OC and no Cstates with windows set to high and processor to 100% settings. I would definitely change windows setting so that minimum processor is set to 5% to not have a constant 1.10v unless you have some gremlins running your processor at max all the time.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> "Let's do this: open CPU-Z and watch the core voltage. Watch the voltage while idling and then put some load on the CPU, like Prime95 or something. What happens?"


CPU-Z doesn't monitor Vcore, it only reports some wanna be VID, it's not even a proper live value, just some random nonsense. Like for me it gives 0.824V idle and 0.816V when I run x264. When in fact it should be showing Vcore/VID around 1.3V. Useless CPU-Z monitoring at it's finest. Just use HWinfo as that is one of the only tools that actually does work decent for monitoring.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> CPU-Z doesn't monitor Vcore, it only reports some wanna be VID, it's not even a proper live value, just some random nonsense. Like for me it gives 0.824V idle and 0.816V when I run x264. When in fact it should be showing Vcore/VID around 1.3V. Useless CPU-Z monitoring at it's finest. Just use HWinfo as that is one of the only tools that actually does work decent for monitoring.


Then things have changed quite a bit since the time when Sandy and Ivy Bridge were hot.


----------



## JackCY

I think so. CPU-Z really doesn't show useable values for me ever, not with Windows being set 5-100%. Maybe constant 100% and C states off it could show correct value, but once the CPU is in dynamic states even if it's running full load P0? P1? state and full blast max voltage, CPU-Z still doesn't read the proper value.


----------



## Metros

So then for both idle and load HWinfo shows VCore at 0.976V (sometimes goes down to 0.968V or up to 0.984V)


----------



## JackCY

There are usually more sensors in the system and HWinfo will show many of them. But it should show you where it is getting those values from.
0.9xxV seems correct live Vcore for 1.0xxV VID on load.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> There are usually more sensors in the system and HWinfo will show many of them. But it should show you where it is getting those values from.
> 0.9xxV seems correct live Vcore for 1.0xxV VID on load.


Yeah, this is with all C-Sates and EIST disabled and at idle, during load CPU VCore is the same (apart from that different I just mentioned) although the AVCC, 3VCC and VIN changes, the VID has not moved from 1.101V


----------



## JackCY

http://www.hwinfo.com/
HW monitor is different, kind of a open source knockoff at least I think it's that way, and doesn't really show that many info. HWinfo is free, just not open source.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> http://www.hwinfo.com/
> HW monitor is different, kind of a open source knockoff at least I think it's that way, and doesn't really show that many info. HWinfo is free, just not open source.


This is what it states for Vcore at idle, 1.208V which is different to what HW monitor is saying at 0.976V

Also it states my Samsung 950 Pro has a drive failure, however Samsung Magician says it is fine


----------



## Metros

I have just used DDU and installed the GPU drivers, I will test if that fixes the issue, I will also try the new BIOS (1.6) as I am currently on 1.2, due to having dual BIOS chip on my Motherboard


----------



## TwoCables

Hey Metros, I should've asked this question before (please forgive me if I should know the answer):

Do you ever have any unexpected restarts or shutdowns if you just do light things all day instead of playing any video games? I mean, does it only happen at that moment when you exit a video game after playing it for a few hours?


----------



## JackCY

Do your house lights blink at the same moment?








Are you sure the PC is not infected with some troll remote administration software?


----------



## xTesla1856

I seem to have the same issue, My 1000P2 randomly shuts down, then after a few seconds it restarts again. No bluescreens, no errors, just poof and the screen goes black. Happens mostly while doing light things like browsing the web or watching a movie. Pulling 500-600 watts while benching, the PSU acts just fine and has no hiccups at all. What could this be? Is my PSU fubar?


----------



## JackCY

Well you have to find the cause of the restart. Is it a hard power reset or just a soft restart, etc. is it PSU issue or other HW issue or SW issue, ...


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Well you have to find the cause of the restart. Is it a hard power reset or just a soft restart, etc. is it PSU issue or other HW issue or SW issue, ...


Hard power reset, something inside the PSU goes "click", as if all the caps discharge. After a few seconds, it reboots itself. I've ruled out other hardware, and nothing is overclocked. My GPUs are even undervolted.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Hard power reset, something inside the PSU goes "click", as if all the caps discharge. After a few seconds, it reboots itself. I've ruled out other hardware, and nothing is overclocked. My GPUs are even undervolted.


The click sound is the relay switch. It always makes that sound when the PSU turns on or off.


----------



## JackCY

Well something is resetting the system hard. The click is normal and it means the system goes all the way off into PSU standby.


----------



## ondoy

EVGA 850 P2 is currently going on for 114.99$, the cheapest so far...


----------



## JackCY

I beg to differ, EVGA still lists it as 170 EUR = 190 USD.
160 USD on US site.

Newegg 147 USD.

I guess someone is getting rid of sitting stock in the warehouse in some shop.


----------



## ondoy

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2 80+ PLATINUM, 850W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply @ 114.99

sorry forgot to mention it was on amazon...


----------



## nblob

Do you guys know if the BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 will work on the older Evga 750G (G1) I know it says it workz on (G2)?

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## JackCY

LEDs? They work anywhere.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nblob*
> 
> Do you guys know if the BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 will work on the older Evga 750G (G1) I know it says it workz on (G2)?
> 
> Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


If you are not already aware
Why you should not buy an EVGA SuperNova NEX650G/750G (aka G1)


----------



## nblob

Not looking to buy one, I already own one

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nblob*
> 
> Not looking to buy one, I already own one
> 
> Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


I was trying to say its not very good


----------



## nblob

Should I jump to the Ax750

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Why when the EVGA SuperNova G2 are newer better and cheaper
Or do you have an AX already?


----------



## nblob

You can get an AX760i for $75, or Supernova 750G2 for $129

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

Used or new?


----------



## nblob

I feel like the AX is refurbished

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## spyshagg

Hey guys.

How many 290x can a superflower 1200w psu handle?


----------



## JackCY

4? If you don't make them stupidly power hungry with over power. You could check some mining forum for that coz that's about the only reason to run 4 at once.


----------



## Klocek001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> How many 290x can a superflower 1200w psu handle?


depends on the cpu

I would not push more than 3 to 100% on that psu. I mean some torture tests or benches.
For gaming I think it'll handle 4 just fine.


----------



## spyshagg

Cpu will be idling at all times.

All cards will be stock, reading 190w on gpu-z while mining.

Instead of selling my 290x's, i will be míning them to recoup their cost and afford a top of the line vega.

The rx480 is making the 290's prices dropping like a rock, i will be adding to 3 more for 5 total.


----------



## JackCY

Where the hell do you even sell the mined virtual coins for "real" money? Sites like that don't seem to be regulated, trustworthy, die every 6 months, half of them seem like scams, etc. How do you miners make any sense of it, who is silly enough to actually pay for say Ethereum with country backed virtual money like USD or some gold backed money if there even still exist any? There used to be MtGox but after that fiasco I'm not sure there are any trustworthy exchanges.


----------



## spyshagg

You can sell your coins at Exchange markets, for real USD money and withdraw the money to your bank


----------



## JackCY

Yeah but what exchange markets?


----------



## spyshagg

Eth to btc or usd at https://poloniex.com/exchange#usdt_eth


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> Cpu will be idling at all times.
> 
> All cards will be stock, reading 190w on gpu-z while mining.
> 
> Instead of selling my 290x's, i will be míning them to recoup their cost and afford a top of the line vega.
> 
> The rx480 is making the 290's prices dropping like a rock, i will be adding to 3 more for 5 total.


They will probably be pulling closer to about 285W while mining (proof: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290x_review_benchmarks,10.html), so I would say that 3 is your limit. Since this is going to be a 24/7 load, you want to keep it closer to 40-60% of the PSU's capacity. Mining on three 290Xs will probably result in a *total* computer power consumption of just over 900W.


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> They will probably be pulling closer to about 285W while mining (proof: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/radeon_r9_290x_review_benchmarks,10.html), so I would say that 3 is your limit. Since this is going to be a 24/7 load, you want to keep it closer to 40-60% of the PSU's capacity. Mining on three 290Xs will probably result in a *total* computer power consumption of just over 900W.


I see. Thats quite a high load, although mining Eth doesn't push them to the limit.

Where does gpu-z pull these numbers though? I thought they were calculated at the power managment chip directly in the PCB



I suppose I better find a watt meter to better make these calculations.


----------



## JackCY

Yes get a wattmeter. These readings from sensors aren't that accurate at times at all.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyshagg*
> 
> I see. Thats quite a high load, although mining Eth doesn't push them to the limit.
> 
> Where does gpu-z pull these numbers though? I thought they were calculated at the power managment chip directly in the PCB
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose I better find a watt meter to better make these calculations.


I don't know how accurate or inaccurate software like GPU-Z is. That's way beyond me. :/ I'd rather trust a Digital Multimeter. Or, you can even do what Guru3D did and use a wall meter and do some simple math to get a fairly accurate 'reading' of the video card's power consumption.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hey Metros, I should've asked this question before (please forgive me if I should know the answer):
> 
> Do you ever have any unexpected restarts or shutdowns if you just do light things all day instead of playing any video games? I mean, does it only happen at that moment when you exit a video game after playing it for a few hours?


Not had internet for the past few days (Sky box damaged)

No, if I view Chrome tabs or youtube videos it is fine all day, no issue, even if I play a game after that it is fine (could freeze sometimes though)

It has restarted while not even opening Chrome after I play a game and it has restarted a few times when playing a game (Elite Dangerous, happens often, Witcher 3, once during playing the game and normally during Gwent and Battlefield 4, happened while playing Single player, not seen it happen during Multiplayer though) Not seen it restart while playing CS GO (V-Sync and V-Sync off)

So it can restart during gaming (even during high loads) or can restart after gaming and viewing Chrome but not if I view Chrome before I play games

Also DDU did not fix the problem


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Do your house lights blink at the same moment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure the PC is not infected with some troll remote administration software?


No, they are fine (although when they do blink, the computer is fine)


----------



## xTesla1856

Still also having the shutdown issue, I tried troubleshooting the hardware one by one and came to no conclusions. Event viewer is of no help either.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> No, they are fine (although when they do blink, the computer is fine)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Still also having the shutdown issue, I tried troubleshooting the hardware one by one and came to no conclusions. Event viewer is of no help either.


Do either of you guys happen to have an extra hard drive where you can load a fresh copy of the OS and install only the software that you will test with? That would be an interesting comparison, if you have it then completely remove the other hard drive from having power and data connected to it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Not had internet for the past few days (Sky box damaged)
> 
> No, if I view Chrome tabs or youtube videos it is fine all day, no issue, even if I play a game after that it is fine (could freeze sometimes though)
> 
> It has restarted while not even opening Chrome after I play a game and it has restarted a few times when playing a game (Elite Dangerous, happens often, Witcher 3, once during playing the game and normally during Gwent and Battlefield 4, happened while playing Single player, not seen it happen during Multiplayer though) Not seen it restart while playing CS GO (V-Sync and V-Sync off)
> 
> So it can restart during gaming (even during high loads) or can restart after gaming and viewing Chrome but not if I view Chrome before I play games
> 
> Also DDU did not fix the problem


Does it always restart at around the same time after you exit a game?

Before I see your reply, I'm going to say that if the answer is Yes, then that could indicate some sort of strange problem during the cool-down stage of something - like maybe the PSU or the video card or even the CPU. I don't know. I don't know why it would restart though, but I'm grabbing at straws now.

If the answer is No, it's unpredictable - then damn, I'd end up having to say that I'm extremely stumped.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Does it always restart at around the same time after you exit a game?
> 
> Before I see your reply, I'm going to say that if the answer is Yes, then that could indicate some sort of strange problem during the cool-down stage of something - like maybe the PSU or the video card or even the CPU. I don't know. I don't know why it would restart though, but I'm grabbing at straws now.
> 
> If the answer is No, it's unpredictable - then damn, I'd end up having to say that I'm extremely stumped.


Just thought of something else with you mentioning this. Can you find out what the cache/memory voltage while its full load and then go into the bios and manually lock those voltages down? It is possible that it's voltage starved and it's doing a hard crash and causing it to restart skipping a BSOD. I kind of remember an old processor doing that to me and it was fine when I locked the voltages. You did mention that you already replaced everything though except for the PSU iirc


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Just thought of something else with you mentioning this. Can you find out what the cache/memory voltage while its full load and then go into the bios and manually lock those voltages down? It is possible that it's voltage starved and it's doing a hard crash and causing it to restart skipping a BSOD. I kind of remember an old processor doing that to me and it was fine when I locked the voltages. You did mention that you already replaced everything though except for the PSU iirc


Interesting, and he did replace everything same-for-same too.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Does it always restart at around the same time after you exit a game?
> 
> Before I see your reply, I'm going to say that if the answer is Yes, then that could indicate some sort of strange problem during the cool-down stage of something - like maybe the PSU or the video card or even the CPU. I don't know. I don't know why it would restart though, but I'm grabbing at straws now.
> 
> If the answer is No, it's unpredictable - then damn, I'd end up having to say that I'm extremely stumped.


It is around the same time after gaming, takes about 5-10 minutes, updated all Motherboard drivers still does not work, I will flip the BIOS switch and go to default settings in the other BIOS

GPU (both) CPU and AIO have been replaced, yet it still happens, the only thing left to replace is the PSU and SSDs (Samsung 950 Pro PCIE and other SSDs)


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Just thought of something else with you mentioning this. Can you find out what the cache/memory voltage while its full load and then go into the bios and manually lock those voltages down? It is possible that it's voltage starved and it's doing a hard crash and causing it to restart skipping a BSOD. I kind of remember an old processor doing that to me and it was fine when I locked the voltages. You did mention that you already replaced everything though except for the PSU iirc


Is this with C-States and EIST disabled or did you want me to enable them


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is around the same time after gaming, takes about 5-10 minutes, updated all Motherboard drivers still does not work, I will flip the BIOS switch and go to default settings in the other BIOS
> 
> GPU (both) CPU and AIO have been replaced, yet it still happens, the only thing left to replace is the PSU and SSDs (Samsung 950 Pro PCIE and other SSDs)


I have a strange experiment to try. Do you have a space heater or a hair dryer? I mean, do you have a way to blow hot air into your case to simulate the heat from gaming?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I have a strange experiment to try. Do you have a space heater or a hair dryer? I mean, do you have a way to blow hot air into your case to simulate the heat from gaming?


Yeah, I do have it, although parents are asleep so best not do it now, that is a good idea

I have changed BIOS and running the second BIOS now, to find out if it was anything I changed in the main BIOS


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Yeah, I do have it, although parents are asleep so best not do it now, that is a good idea
> 
> I have changed BIOS and running the second BIOS now, to find out if it was anything I changed in the main BIOS


A thought just occurred to me though: you said that you need to be playing a game for a few hours. So, unless it's cold outside or unless the air conditioning is on and set too cold for your comfort, I'm not so sure about having a heater or hair dryer on for that long. lol

Me and my crazy ideas.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Is this with C-States and EIST disabled or did you want me to enable them


Have everything that saves power disabled.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Have everything that saves power disabled.


Doing that now, set CPU VCore to 1.25V and memory to 1.2V

The other BIOS did not work, will use a new BIOS later

According to the plug tester I am using, the extension lead has no Earth connector


----------



## JackCY

Get proper wiring Metros, do it already








3 separate wires all the way.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Get proper wiring Metros, do it already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 separate wires all the way.


Only noticed today, been using this extension for years, I do not have another one to use though


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Have everything that saves power disabled.


Still get a restart after I exit the game


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Still get a restart after I exit the game


What ever voltage your ram is supposed to be add .1 to .2 lock it in. Leave your CPU voltage locked. After that I'm drawing a blank lol.


----------



## JackCY

Metro just make a thread with a list of what you tried and what the results were.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> What ever voltage your ram is supposed to be add .1 to .2 lock it in. Leave your CPU voltage locked. After that I'm drawing a blank lol.


Also I am running at 2133Mhz and not 2666Mhz

I doubt many people would even read the thread about my issues on here, although I could still do it


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Also I am running at 2133Mhz and not 2666Mhz
> 
> I doubt many people would even read the thread about my issues on here, although I could still do it


If all else fail, try a different hard drive with a fresh install of the OS and only witcher 3 and see if it happens since it's consistent that it happens on gwent. Jus to check if the software is causing the hardware to hard reset. your video cards are not overheating at all? I have seen in many instances where overheated video cards cause a hardware reset.

Definitely try 1.3v on the memory though at least.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> If all else fail, try a different hard drive with a fresh install of the OS and only witcher 3 and see if it happens since it's consistent that it happens on gwent. Jus to check if the software is causing the hardware to hard reset. your video cards are not overheating at all? I have seen in many instances where overheated video cards cause a hardware reset.
> 
> Definitely try 1.3v on the memory though at least.


Sometimes Gwent is fine, only happens sometimes, GPU during Gwent is at like 54c and 42c, during Witcher 3 it is 72c and 68c

CPU is around 60c (when overclocked)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Doing that now, set CPU VCore to 1.25V and memory to 1.2V
> 
> The other BIOS did not work, will use a new BIOS later
> 
> According to the plug tester I am using, the extension lead has no Earth connector


Extension lead? What's that? Is that what we Americans call "an extension cord"? Over here, a grounded (Earthed) extension cord has 3 prongs. A grounded outlet accepts 3 prongs. However, that never guarantees that the outlet is properly grounded. All outlets must be tested. If it's not grounded, then you're going to have weird problems sooner or later.

So, find a properly-grounded outlet and test your computer on it.


----------



## Mega Man

not usually true. in the us you CAN NOT use ground for active power

it is an emergency contingency only

so no, nothing funny should happen

it is only there IF something shorts to ground it a ) goes to ground and not the next person who touches the housing, and b) blows a breaker


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not usually true. in the us you CAN NOT use ground for active power
> 
> it is an emergency contingency only
> 
> so no, nothing funny should happen
> 
> it is only there IF something shorts to ground it a ) goes to ground and not the next person who touches the housing, and b) blows a breaker


I'm not talking about using ground for active power. I'm just talking about proper grounding. He just got done saying he noticed that he never had his computer grounded. So, I'm speculating that this is somehow the culprit - or at least maybe contributing to it.


----------



## Mega Man

and that is what i am saying, it isnt. all grounding is is an additional neutral nothing more


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and that is what i am saying, it isnt. all grounding is is an additional neutral nothing more


Yeah, I admit that I don't know very much about this stuff in particular.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> If all else fail, try a different hard drive with a fresh install of the OS and only witcher 3 and see if it happens since it's consistent that it happens on gwent. Jus to check if the software is causing the hardware to hard reset. your video cards are not overheating at all? I have seen in many instances where overheated video cards cause a hardware reset.
> 
> Definitely try 1.3v on the memory though at least.


Not done 1.3V (not sure if it can handle it) however I have done 1.22V on both C/D DRAM Voltage and B/C DRAM Voltage (something like that) if that is no enough I will try 1.25V, I think 1.3V might be too much voltage for this RAM


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> If all else fail, try a different hard drive with a fresh install of the OS and only witcher 3 and see if it happens since it's consistent that it happens on gwent. Jus to check if the software is causing the hardware to hard reset. your video cards are not overheating at all? I have seen in many instances where overheated video cards cause a hardware reset.
> 
> Definitely try 1.3v on the memory though at least.


CPU VCore 1.25V and RAM CM_C/D Voltage 1.24V, it still restarted after I quit playing Battlefield 4 for a few hours (did not freeze during the game) happened during a YouTube video

Also updated mouse Firmware and uninstalled my Anti Virus to test, however it still restarted


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Just got P2 750W to replace my 9 years old TX750. After using that PSU in so many build the cables finally started to break.


----------



## JackCY

Yeah when a new cable set costs as much as a new PSU with cables, really better just get the new PSU


----------



## Metros

Got a new EVGA 1600w T2 coming


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Might convert to eVGA PSU after using Corsair for years. They are priced a lot better. I do think the cables on my AX1200 are better though. The SATA power for some reason is same direction as my old Corsair TX750. Have to wire from bottom up the HDD instead of up to down. I love how quite and cool it is.


----------



## Metros

So I might have fixed the random restarting

What I did was set the system fans to full speed and not PWM and made a small increase in the fan speed for low temperatures for the CPU fans, along with having 60 percent fan speed set for the GPUs when gaming and after I close the game. Not had a restart for three days now


----------



## sebna

Looks like it is temperature related then and if it is temperature related then it looks like it is just unstable for whatever reasons. Is this on new T2 1600W?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So I might have fixed the random restarting
> 
> What I did was set the system fans to full speed and not PWM and made a small increase in the fan speed for low temperatures for the CPU fans, along with having 60 percent fan speed set for the GPUs when gaming and after I close the game. Not had a restart for three days now


Well now I have a new question: is this house usually warmer inside than that other one where the problem never occurred?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> Looks like it is temperature related then and if it is temperature related then it looks like it is just unstable for whatever reasons. Is this on new T2 1600W?


The EVGA 1600w T2, however I am not sure if there is a new one


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well now I have a new question: is this house usually warmer inside than that other one where the problem never occurred?


Yeah, it is warmer, not a lot though


----------



## JackCY

I know where the error is








Between the chair and keyboard.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well now I have a new question: is this house usually warmer inside than that other one where the problem never occurred?


Never mind, Elite Dangerous just froze, however other games have been fine when going from load to idle


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Never mind, Elite Dangerous just froze, however other games have been fine when going from load to idle


What temps are you getting?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I know where the error is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Between the chair and keyboard.


I tire of posts like this...everyone should be here to lend what they know since there is nobody who knows everything(they wrote a book on that btw and also why peer review is so valued today). If you are just going to insult someone and not lend one bit of advice then what is your purpose aside to feel elitist? I might NOT personally know as much as most long time users here however my knowledge in solving game related bugs has earned me most of my rep. I bet if you ask those users they would tell you they were glad I took the time as opposed to posting some snide comment. Nobody likes having an issue on their system. We all have something to contribute and being nasty to someone is not helpful at all.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> What temps are you getting?


During that run 80c and 72c GPU, along with 60c CPU

Battlefront also had those temperatures during gaming, it was fine, went into menu screen for about 5 minutes, 72c and 64c GPU, along with 54c CPU and the system restarted


----------



## Mega Man

I am still saying you are looking in the wrong place this does not sound like psu issue in the least.

Either faulty part or bad oc or drivers imo.

Only thing I have heard or seen psu wise was when my psu would cut out. But would not restart till I trapped on the housing


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> I tire of posts like this...everyone should be here to lend what they know since there is nobody who knows everything(they wrote a book on that btw and also why peer review is so valued today). If you are just going to insult someone and not lend one bit of advice then what is your purpose aside to feel elitist? I might NOT personally know as much as most long time users here however my knowledge in solving game related bugs has earned me most of my rep. I bet if you ask those users they would tell you they were glad I took the time as opposed to posting some snide comment. Nobody likes having an issue on their system. We all have something to contribute and being nasty to someone is not helpful at all.


Thank you. You pretty much verbalized my gut reaction to his post. I, too, am sick and tired of seeing posts like that. After all, this is Overclock.net, not Tom's Hardware or some inferior forum like that. I mean, I wish everyone here would understand that if the only thing they want to post is something that isn't helpful in the least bit (such as the crap that JackCY posted), *then they shouldn't post at all*.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> During that run 80c and 72c GPU, along with 60c CPU
> 
> Battlefront also had those temperatures during gaming, it was fine, went into menu screen for about 5 minutes, 72c and 64c GPU, along with 54c CPU and the system restarted


Can you test your computer again at the other house sometime soon?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am still saying you are looking in the wrong place this does not sound like psu issue in the least.
> 
> Either faulty part or bad oc or drivers imo.
> 
> Only thing I have heard or seen psu wise was when my psu would cut out. But would not restart till I trapped on the housing


The only parts left I have to try is the PSU and SSDs, there is no overclock on any part, even the RAM is at 2133Mhz, I have tried different GPU drivers, along with using DDU and I have installed the latest chipset drivers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Can you test your computer again at the other house sometime soon?


That will not be any time soon unfortunately, due to it being no where near where I am now (on the other side of the country) however that would be the best thing to do. If this new PSU does not work or getting a UPS, I will take the computer to another house (family) and test it there for a few hours

It seems strange how it did not freeze for three days, when it would normally do it every day and I was doing the same thing, the only thing I changed were the fan speeds


----------



## Metros

I might have found something, I let the warm get so hot (about 35c) with GPU temperatures 81c and 74c, along with CPU temperatures 64c and then play for about 2 hours, then quit the game. Each time I have done this, the system restarted about 2 minutes after I quit the game.

Now I play in a cool room GPU temperatures 71c and 64c, along with CPU temperatures 58cm, then play for the same time, then quit the game. Each time I have done this, the system has been fine

This is during Battlefront

So let's say it is overheating, what could it be


----------



## Artah

What GPU do you have and it is liquid cooled? It's possible that the TIM is not applied properly or there is too much or too little of it. Dried up maybe?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> What GPU do you have and it is liquid cooled? It's possible that the TIM is not applied properly or there is too much or too little of it. Dried up maybe?


GTX 980ti Matrix SLI, it is air cooled


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> GTX 980ti Matrix SLI, it is air cooled


You running something higher than 59hz on the monitor?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I might have found something, I let the warm get so hot (about 35c) with GPU temperatures 81c and 74c, along with CPU temperatures 64c and then play for about 2 hours, then quit the game. Each time I have done this, the system restarted about 2 minutes after I quit the game.
> 
> Now I play in a cool room GPU temperatures 71c and 64c, along with CPU temperatures 58cm, then play for the same time, then quit the game. Each time I have done this, the system has been fine
> 
> This is during Battlefront
> 
> So let's say it is overheating, what could it be


I think we found the culprit. Now it's time to find a way to get better temps. You either need better case airflow or better cooling on your video cards, or both. The ultimate goal is to maximize the speed of your heat dissipation away from the video cards and out of the case.

Of course, 81°C shouldn't cause any problems. Right? So, if not, then what the hell is going on? These aren't even the same cards that were in the system when this problem began happening. Could it be the PSU is defective, resulting in some sort of problem with its power delivery when it's cooling down?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> You running something higher than 59hz on the monitor?


It is the ASUS PG348Q, so 3440x1440p 100hz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think we found the culprit. Now it's time to find a way to get better temps. You either need better case airflow or better cooling on your video cards, or both. The ultimate goal is to maximize the speed of your heat dissipation away from the video cards and out of the case.
> 
> Of course, 81°C shouldn't cause any problems. Right? So, if not, then what the hell is going on? These aren't even the same cards that were in the system when this problem began happening. Could it be the PSU is defective, resulting in some sort of problem with its power delivery when it's cooling down?


I have 5 intake fans (BeQuiet 120mm SW2) at 80 percent fan speed and 4 exhaust fans (BeQuiet 140mm SW2 at the back) and three EK Varder 2 120mm at the top

I have a Samsung 950 Pro 512GB behind the bottom GPU, however if that was overheating, surely that would happen during gaming

I do have a desk fan that I could use tomorrow and put it at the front of the case

That might explain why I have never had any problems with CS GO and closing the game


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is the ASUS PG348Q, so 3440x1440p 100hz
> I have 5 intake fans (BeQuiet 120mm SW2) at 80 percent fan speed and 4 exhaust fans (BeQuiet 140mm SW2 at the back) and three EK Varder 2 120mm at the top
> 
> I have a Samsung 950 Pro 512GB behind the bottom GPU, however if that was overheating, surely that would happen during gaming
> 
> I do have a desk fan that I could use tomorrow and put it at the front of the case
> 
> That might explain why I have never had any problems with CS GO and closing the game


What do you have for cooling on your video cards?

I hate this question though because you replaced them in the beginning yet this problem kept happening. heh I dunno.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you have for cooling on your video cards?
> 
> I hate this question though because you replaced them in the beginning yet this problem kept happening. heh I dunno.


It is air cooling


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is air cooling


Stock? Aftermarket?


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Stock? Aftermarket?


Sorry, GTX 980ti Matrix SLI, so aftermarket


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Sorry, GTX 980ti Matrix SLI, so aftermarket


So, stock cooling on non-reference cards. Aftermarket cooling is what you buy separately and install yourself, to replace whatever the cards came with.

You may need to set up an aggressive fan profile or curve for the cards. I mean, *very* aggressive.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> So, stock cooling on non-reference cards. Aftermarket cooling is what you buy separately and install yourself, to replace whatever the cards came with.
> 
> You may need to set up an aggressive fan profile or curve for the cards. I mean, *very* aggressive.


Yeah, stock cooling on non-reference cards

Seems strange that it does not do it while load though (Elite Dangerous does though) why would it restart at 50c rather than 81c

I will also adjust the CPU fan curve, so it can draw more air out of the case


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Yeah, stock cooling on non-reference cards
> 
> Seems strange that it does not do it while load though (Elite Dangerous does though) why would it restart at 50c rather than 81c
> 
> I will also adjust the CPU fan curve, so it can draw more air out of the case


I said the fans for the video cards. I didn't say anything about the CPU's fan, but I guess you should try that too. Just don't do both at the same time because then you will never figure out which one was the culprit.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I said the fans for the video cards. I didn't say anything about the CPU's fan, but I guess you should try that too. Just don't do both at the same time because then you will never figure out which one was the culprit.


This was at 70 percent fan speed (GPU) so I will make a curve that goes to 80 percent fan speed when it reaches 70c

Also the only reason it got to 81c was because I shut the door and windows and let the room get to 35c, if I play with the door open it stays around 70c

However it could be temperatures I will try Elite Dangerous as that freezes every time I play it with the new curve

Also is the GPU clock speed not too high for idle, it is at 1189Mhz, this is stated by GPU Z and Hwmonitor (I guess that might be the "Maximum performance" option in NVIDIA control panel)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> This was at 70 percent fan speed (GPU) so I will make a curve that goes to 80 percent fan speed when it reaches 70c
> 
> Also the only reason it got to 81c was because I shut the door and windows and let the room get to 35c, if I play with the door open it stays around 70c
> 
> However it could be temperatures I will try Elite Dangerous as that freezes every time I play it with the new curve
> 
> Also is the GPU clock speed not too high for idle, it is at 1189Mhz, this is stated by GPU Z and Hwmonitor


I'd imagine though that you often have to play with the door closed for privacy and the ability to play without distractions.

But yeah, experiment with fan speeds and see if this changes anything.

I don't know what's normal or abnormal for the GTX 980 Ti. I could look it up I guess, but then I'd be doing what you can do and that wouldn't be very helpful.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'd imagine though that you often have to play with the door closed for privacy and the ability to play without distractions.
> 
> But yeah, experiment with fan speeds and see if this changes anything.
> 
> I don't know what's normal or abnormal for the GTX 980 Ti. I could look it up I guess, but then I'd be doing what you can do and that wouldn't be very helpful.


Yeah, I edited my comment about the clock speeds, it is the Maximum performance option. I have tried all the options and it still freezes on all of them, so it does not matter which setting I use


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Yeah, I edited my comment about the clock speeds, it is the Maximum performance option. I have tried all the options and it still freezes on all of them, so it does not matter which setting I use


Maximum performance just means that the threshold is changed for when the clocks and voltage drops down. I use this for games that aren't demanding enough to keep the clocks and voltages at the full 3D performance level, but only when that results in inferior performance - and it does for some of my games.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is the ASUS PG348Q, so 3440x1440p 100hz
> I have 5 intake fans (BeQuiet 120mm SW2) at 80 percent fan speed and 4 exhaust fans (BeQuiet 140mm SW2 at the back) and three EK Varder 2 120mm at the top
> 
> I have a Samsung 950 Pro 512GB behind the bottom GPU, however if that was overheating, surely that would happen during gaming
> 
> I do have a desk fan that I could use tomorrow and put it at the front of the case
> 
> That might explain why I have never had any problems with CS GO and closing the game


There's your overheating problems. The resolution in combination with 100 refresh with air cooling. Try doing everything with 60hz and see if it happens.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> There's your overheating problems. The resolution in combination with 100 refresh with air cooling. Try doing everything with 60hz and see if it happens.


I know I keep asking this question however it is really confusing, why does it not freeze when I play Battlefront, only during the menu or when I quit the game

I will try that as well


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I know I keep asking this question however it is really confusing, why does it not freeze when I play Battlefront, only during the menu or when I quit the game
> 
> I will try that as well


I think something is happening to something in your computer while this 'something' is cooling down. We just don't know which component it is yet. I mean, it could be the CPU, or one or both of the 980 Ti's, or the PSU, or ... heh, who knows? Y'know? All I know is, metal expands when it heats up and shrinks when it cools down. Actually, everything changes a bit with high and low temperatures.

So, what seems to be happening is, when the temperature of whichever component or components it is gets high enough, it changes so much that it goes past a critical point where, while it's cooling down, it has to go back past that critical point to return to it's original physical structure (on a very small scale, that is). When it goes back over that critical point while cooling down, something severe must be happening that causes the computer to reboot or shut down. If the temperature doesn't get very high though, then that apparent critical point is never reached, and thus nothing bad happens during the cool-down because the heat didn't cause whichever component it is to change so much that it went up past that critical point in its structure - on a small scale, again.

In other words, science is happening here.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think something is happening to something in your computer while this 'something' is cooling down. We just don't know which component it is yet. I mean, it could be the CPU, or one or both of the 980 Ti's, or the PSU, or ... heh, who knows? Y'know? All I know is, metal expands when it heats up and shrinks when it cools down. Actually, everything changes a bit with high and low temperatures.
> 
> So, what seems to be happening is, when the temperature of whichever component or components it is gets high enough, it changes so much that it goes past a critical point where, while it's cooling down, it has to go back past that critical point to return to it's original physical structure (on a very small scale, that is). When it goes back over that critical point while cooling down, something severe must be happening that causes the computer to reboot or shut down. If the temperature doesn't get very high though, then that apparent critical point is never reached, and thus nothing bad happens during the cool-down because the heat didn't cause whichever component it is to change so much that it went up past that critical point in its structure - on a small scale, again.
> 
> In other words, science is happening here.


Thanks for the indepth read there, this would be the first time I have ever come across this issue if that is indeed what is happening


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Thanks for the indepth read there, this would be the first time I have ever come across this issue if that is indeed what is happening


You're welcome.

It would be the first time I've ever seen it too. I'm beginning to suspect a defect with a heatsink or something else like that. I dunno. It could even be something in the PSU because after all, *everything* is getting warmer and then cooling down. It's like, if the heat doesn't get high enough, then not enough gets changed to anything physically to where the cool-down causes the "change back to normal" phase to come back past that "critical point" where something bad happens. You'd think it would happen while everything is heating up, but I'm guessing something is snapping back into factory-designed position during the cool-down? I'm getting in over my head, I think. I'm not a scientist.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You're welcome.
> 
> It would be the first time I've ever seen it too. I'm beginning to suspect a defect with a heatsink or something else like that. I dunno. It could even be something in the PSU because after all, *everything* is getting warmer and then cooling down. It's like, if the heat doesn't get high enough, then not enough gets changed to anything physically to where the cool-down causes the "change back to normal" phase to come back past that "critical point" where something bad happens. You'd think it would happen while everything is heating up, but I'm guessing something is snapping back into factory-designed position during the cool-down? I'm getting in over my head, I think. I'm not a scientist.


I will fit the new PSU tomorrow as well


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I will fit the new PSU tomorrow as well


Oh. Ok. Which one? I'm thinking maybe we should try something completely different, just to avoid a possible design flaw that is present in all PSUs of the same model.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I know I keep asking this question however it is really confusing, why does it not freeze when I play Battlefront, only during the menu or when I quit the game
> 
> I will try that as well


it is very possible that it's the combination of everything or a few components in your rig that's reacting badly game load and unload from memory along with temperature and placement of the actual files on the hard disk. I would recommend not putting in the PSU yet and try 60hz.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh. Ok. Which one? I'm thinking maybe we should try something completely different, just to avoid a possible design flaw that is present in all PSUs of the same model.


It is the same one, Scan sent it to me to test

Also, another thing we could do is let it get to 80c, go to the game menu and set GPU fans to a higher percentage and then see if it freezes when it goes to a lower temperature


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is the same one, Scan sent it to me to test
> 
> Also, another thing we could do is let it get to 80c, go to the game menu and set GPU fans to a higher percentage and then see if it freezes when it goes to a lower temperature


it does not necessarily mean it's only the temperature that's causing it although it is very possible. I'm very excited to finally get somewhere with all our combined testing, it's all a group effort!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is the same one, Scan sent it to me to test
> 
> Also, another thing we could do is let it get to 80c, go to the game menu and set GPU fans to a higher percentage and then see if it freezes when it goes to a lower temperature


Oh wow, good idea. Do it. I think we'll get to the bottom of this pretty quickly here.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh wow, good idea. Do it. I think we'll get to the bottom of this pretty quickly here.


It is 3.00am in the morning here, so I do not have time to do it now, however that will be on the list for later today


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> It is 3.00am in the morning here, so I do not have time to do it now, however that will be on the list for later today


Hey, it will be soon enough when you do it.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Hey, it will be soon enough when you do it.


So I put fan on 28 percent and let it get to 81c and 74c when gaming, quit the game and put fans to 70 percent, it did not restart my computer

I will try again by actually playing for a few games

No, got to 83c and 76c GPU, while CPU was at 54c, it did not restart even when it went down to 56c in the game menu and 40c at the desktop

I am going to fit the new PSU now


----------



## Metros

So the new PSU does not work and Elite Dangerous restarted my computer when it was 72c and 68c GPU, along with 56c CPU, so something else must be the problem


----------



## ondoy

try disabling sli...


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> try disabling sli...


I have done that, still does not work


----------



## ondoy

try removing one gpu, test your system with only 1 gpu at a time...
i have a similar issue, everytime i game the pc restarts..
everytime a gpu gets loaded the system restart, then i found out my second gpu was causing it..


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> try removing one gpu, test your system with only 1 gpu at a time...
> i have a similar issue, everytime i game the pc restarts..
> everytime a gpu gets loaded the system restart, then i found out my second gpu was causing it..


Alright I will take out a GPU


----------



## Reystar

Guys would you recommend the Super Flower Leadex 850 Gold?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Guys would you recommend the Super Flower Leadex 850 Gold?


Absolutely. Do you need it though?


----------



## shilka

The Leadex yes but you dont need that much wattage unless you are going to have two video cards.


----------



## Reystar

I am going for 1070 SLI and i feel safer having some more headroom, wont hurt!


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> There's your overheating problems. The resolution in combination with 100 refresh with air cooling. Try doing everything with 60hz and see if it happens.


So I put the refresh rate to 60hz and increased the CPU fan curve and I did not get a restart in Elite Dangerous, however I expect that was because with 60hz VSync, the GPUs do not need to do much work


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I am going for 1070 SLI and i feel safer having some more headroom, wont hurt!


You could power a GTX 1070 SLI setup with a good 600 watt PSU so an 850 watt PSU is way overkill.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So I put the refresh rate to 60hz and increased the CPU fan curve and I did not get a restart in Elite Dangerous, however I expect that was because with 60hz VSync, the GPUs do not need to do much work


Try one GPU at a time at 100 unless you're liquid coloring then that would be tough.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Try one GPU at a time at 100 unless you're liquid coloring then that would be tough.


Will do that now, do you have to physically take it out or can I take out the power connectors, however I expect it will still recieve 75w from the PCIE lane


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> Will do that now, do you have to physically take it out or can I take out the power connectors, however I expect it will still recieve 75w from the PCIE lane


Leave it on and just disable SLI. Also maybe your other card has a higher ASIC and will not heat up as much, maybe put that on the primary slot and test it with SLI that way, course this will not matter if what's doing it is the overheating with SLI in the first place.


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Leave it on and just disable SLI. Also maybe your other card has a higher ASIC and will not heat up as much, maybe put that on the primary slot and test it with SLI that way, course this will not matter if what's doing it is the overheating with SLI in the first place.


I have disabled SLI before and it still happens, although I have not changed the GPU placement, also the highest ASIC GPU is at the top


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I am going for 1070 SLI and i feel safer having some more headroom, wont hurt!


No, the power consumption of the GTX 1070 is *very* low unless you overclock it to major extremes (but then you'd need to buy aftermarket cooling or use liquid cooling). The GTX 1070 pulls about 160W under full load *by itself*. The GTX 970 pulls about 165W by itself. I can't find a good breakdown of the power consumption for the GTX 1070, so we need to have a look at the following page for the GTX 970:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_970_sli_review,4.html

They got 326W for two GTX 970s in SLI *by themselves*. For two GTX 1070s in SLI, they got 329W: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_1070_2_way_sli_review,4.html Only, they didn't break down the power consumption in a way that I can use, such as the way they did it for the GTX 970 review. So, I'll use the GTX 970 review and apply it to the GTX 1070. After all, it's just a difference of 3W. That means they're practically the same in terms of power consumption.

So, with two GTX 970s under full load in their system (pretend they are GTX 1070s), their PSU pulled 439W from the wall outlet. If we assume that their PSU was 90% efficient while pulling 439W from the wall outlet, then that would mean their computer pulled 395W out of the PSU. Overclocking your 3770K to 4.5 GHz could make it pull roughly 125-150W out of the PSU under full load - all by itself. So, adding 125-150W to 395W brings the total to 520-545W, but we're not done yet. That's an extremely unrealistic power consumption because we're talking about having everything maxed out to their limits, which pretty much never happens while gaming. While gaming, your power consumption would be lower, riding roughly 500W or lower. Yeah, I'm quite serious about that.

So, the only thing that would be hurt by getting the 850W Leadex is your bank account's balance. You'd be wasting your money and you wouldn't be getting *ANY* benefits from the extreme overkill whatsoever. You could power your rig with a nice 650W PSU and still be fine! What's more, if you upgrade to a 6700K or something like that, then your power consumption would drop by another 25-50W.

As you can see, there's a major effort being made to make things like video cards and CPUs consume less and less and less power with each new generation. So, please don't waste your money on a high-end 850W PSU when you'd never need all that power. Spend less on a more appropriately-sized PSU and put that saved money towards something else. For me, that would be things like groceries.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, the power consumption of the GTX 1070 is *very* low unless you overclock it to major extremes (but then you'd need to buy aftermarket cooling or use liquid cooling). The GTX 1070 pulls about 160W under full load *by itself*. The GTX 970 pulls about 165W by itself. I can't find a good breakdown of the power consumption for the GTX 1070, so we need to have a look at the following page for the GTX 970:
> 
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_970_sli_review,4.html
> 
> They got 326W for two GTX 970s in SLI *by themselves*. For two GTX 1070s in SLI, they got 329W: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_1070_2_way_sli_review,4.html Only, they didn't break down the power consumption in a way that I can use, such as the way they did it for the GTX 970 review. So, I'll use the GTX 970 review and apply it to the GTX 1070. After all, it's just a difference of 3W. That means they're practically the same in terms of power consumption.
> 
> So, with two GTX 970s under full load in their system (pretend they are GTX 1070s), their PSU pulled 439W from the wall outlet. If we assume that their PSU was 90% efficient while pulling 439W from the wall outlet, then that would mean their computer pulled 395W out of the PSU. Overclocking your 3770K to 4.5 GHz could make it pull roughly 125-150W out of the PSU under full load - all by itself. So, adding 125-150W to 395W brings the total to 520-545W, but we're not done yet. That's an extremely unrealistic power consumption because we're talking about having everything maxed out to their limits, which pretty much never happens while gaming. While gaming, your power consumption would be lower, riding roughly 500W or lower. Yeah, I'm quite serious about that.
> 
> So, the only thing that would be hurt by getting the 850W Leadex is your bank account's balance. You'd be wasting your money and you wouldn't be getting *ANY* benefits from the extreme overkill whatsoever. You could power your rig with a nice 650W PSU and still be fine! What's more, if you upgrade to a 6700K or something like that, then your power consumption would drop by another 25-50W.
> 
> As you can see, there's a major effort being made to make things like video cards and CPUs consume less and less and less power with each new generation. So, please don't waste your money on a high-end 850W PSU when you'd never need all that power. Spend less on a more appropriately-sized PSU and put that saved money towards something else. For me, that would be things like groceries.


Ok i will get the 750 one then!
Also, is it ok if i place it with the fan up? Because i dont want to showcase the sticker on the psu side, would it be a problem?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Ok i will get the 750 one then!
> Also, is it ok if i place it with the fan up? Because i dont want to showcase the sticker on the psu side, would it be a problem?


The fan is an intake fan, so it should be ok but keep in mind that it will result in a warmer PSU.

Why did you conclude to get the 750W PSU after what I just said? That's still major overkill. Even a 650W PSU would be more than enough (yeah, *more* than enough - not *just* enough, but overkill). How much are these PSUs selling for?


----------



## Reystar

650 costs 123euro
750 costs 140euro
850 costs 169 euro

i went for 750 because i didn't have any problems spending another 17 euro to get something with more wattage even if i don't need it xD


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> 650 costs 123euro
> 750 costs 140euro
> 850 costs 169 euro
> 
> i went for 750 because i didn't have any problems spending another 17 euro to get something with more wattage even if i don't need it xD


You are aware that more wattage you dont use is going to slighty lower your efficiency right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> 650 costs 123euro
> 750 costs 140euro
> 850 costs 169 euro
> 
> i went for 750 because i didn't have any problems spending another 17 euro to get something with more wattage even if i don't need it xD


Well, it's your money, so I guess you can waste it if you want.

Shilka, the efficiency isn't going to be noticeably different. Maybe it would on paper, but it's not like it's going to be massively different or anything. The only concern here is, wasting an extra 17euro for absolutely nothing. Reystar, you would get precisely the same end result if you were to buy the 650W PSU for 123 and then go toss the 17euro in the trash or burn it because the 750W PSU isn't going to benefit you any more than the 650W PSU would.

I'm just trying to inform you. The final decision is yours, so I'm not trying to persuade you to do anything. I just want you to know what you're doing.


----------



## Reystar

Also, higher "free watt space" you have doesnt that mean the PSU temp will be lower?

If my system drains 400w a 650w PSU will be hotter than the same for example 1000w version, so the fan wont spin....no?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Also, higher "free watt space" you have doesnt that mean the PSU temp will be lower?
> 
> If my system drains 400w a 650w PSU will be hotter than the same for example 1000w version, so the fan wont spin....no?


Well, it's not like it would be hot or even all that warm. These PSUs are very high-end, and they are able to deliver their advertised wattage 24/7 if it's ever needed. I know we're talking about a difference of only 17 euro, but still, knowledge empowers.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well, it's not like it would be hot or even all that warm. These PSUs are very high-end, and they are able to deliver their advertised wattage 24/7 if it's ever needed. I know we're talking about a difference of only 17 euro, but still, knowledge empowers.


The PSU has an ECO mode which means that the fan will turn on only when needed right? That means that the fan will turn on when the PSU reaches a specific (%) temperature or specific (%) watt consumption? Basically in other words, getting a PSU that has more headroom than needed will it make it run quieter as a result ?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> The PSU has an ECO mode which means that the fan will turn on only when needed right? That means that the fan will turn on when the PSU reaches a specific (%) temperature or specific (%) watt consumption? Basically in other words, getting a PSU that has more headroom than needed will it make it run quieter as a result ?


Quieter if you have your ear right up to it. Otherwise, I doubt you'd ever hear the fan. Of course, a 750W PSU like that would provide you all the room you would ever want for all the overclocking you could ever think of doing.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quieter if you have your ear right up to it. Otherwise, I doubt you'd ever hear the fan. Of course, a 750W PSU like that would provide you all the room you would ever want for all the overclocking you could ever think of doing.


great, cutting down db from any component you can is always a plus as at the end there it just gets better and quieter







couple dbs on every fan of the system is enough to make a noticeable improvement


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> great, cutting down db from any component you can is always a plus as at the end there it just gets better and quieter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> couple dbs on every fan of the system is enough to make a noticeable improvement


At your rig's power consumption, you would need to have your ear like a centimeter away from the PSU in order to hear the difference between the fan on and off. So, I think this is only a matter of whether you want to spend an extra 17 euro for nothing.


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> At your rig's power consumption, you would need to have your ear like a centimeter away from the PSU in order to hear the difference between the fan on and off. So, I think this is only a matter of whether you want to spend an extra 17 euro for nothing.


That is actually nowhere near the truth. Fan in my T2 is not that quiet at all. Luckily it stays off all the time (I can force it tough if I want so that is how I know). Easily to be heard from few meters.

On minimum RPM It is much louder then rest of my case / CPU fans...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> That is actually nowhere near the truth. Fan in my T2 is not that quiet at all. Luckily it stays off all the time (I can force it tough if I want so that is how I know). Easily to be heard from few meters.
> 
> On minimum RPM It is much louder then rest of my case / CPU fans...


Yeah, but that's the way your PSU is. We're not talking about the PSU you have.

I know what I'm talking about here. So it's ok, I got this.


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, but that's the way your PSU is. We're not talking about the PSU you have.
> 
> I know what I'm talking about here. So it's ok, I got this.


I am sorry but do you own an EVGA / Superflower PSU at all?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebna*
> 
> I am sorry but do you own an EVGA / Superflower PSU at all?


No, but I know how to study professional/expert reviews.

Please back off and let me work. Don't make me involve a moderator.


----------



## shilka

Please just stop both of you before you get into another epic fight
TwoCables please just ignore it and move on its not worth it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Please just stop both of you before you get into another epic fight
> TwoCables please just ignore it and move on its not worth it.


Don't worry, I'm done and moving on. I'd like some assistance from you though because I know that you know Super Flower Leadex PSUs better than anyone on here. I'm not saying that I want you to help me shut sebna up (even though that would be nice), but I want you to help me help Reystar.


----------



## Reystar

@shilka some guy over some other forums (linustechtips i think?) told me that awhile back the Super Flower Leadex was found to have issues when severe brownouts occurred at the wall the PSU is plugged into and was encouraging me not to buy one

Do you know anything about this?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Don't worry, I'm done and moving on. I'd like some assistance from you though because I know that you know Super Flower Leadex PSUs better than anyone on here. I'm not saying that I want you to help me shut sebna up (even though that would be nice), but I want you to help me help Reystar.


My experience with the Leadex platform is limited to the 750 watt G2 i dont have or claim to have experience with all the other versions
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> @shilka some guy over some other forums (linustechtips i think?) told me that awhile back the Super Flower Leadex was found to have issues when severe brownouts occurred at the wall the PSU is plugged into and was encouraging me not to buy one
> 
> Do you know anything about this?


I have not heard anything about that so that sounds like an isolated issue


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have not heard anything about that so that sounds like an isolated issue


Hmm ok, anyhow i already ordered a UPS too so that shouldn't be an issue (if its true)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Hmm ok, anyhow i already ordered a UPS too so that shouldn't be an issue (if its true)


Sometimes bad outlets or bad wiring (low quality power being delivered to the PSU) can cause major problems for even the best PSUs. So, if the power is bad to begin with, a brownout could cause major problems.

My old HX650 handled a brownout beautifully about 3-4 years ago. The 100W incandescent bulb in my ceiling light fixture looked like a dim night-light, yet my computer was still working just fine. Even my monitor was fine. Of course, my speakers, router and cable modem weren't working during the brownout.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Sometimes bad outlets or bad wiring (low quality power being delivered to the PSU) can cause major problems for even the best PSUs. So, if the power is bad to begin with, a brownout could cause major problems.
> 
> My old HX650 handled a brownout beautifully about 3-4 years ago. The 100W incandescent bulb in my ceiling light fixture looked like a dim night-light, yet my computer was still working just fine. Even my monitor was fine. Of course, my speakers, router and cable modem weren't working during the brownout.


A UPS will help with all that scenarios though right?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> A UPS will help with all that scenarios though right?


Yeah, an Uninterruptible Power Supply powers your computer with its batteries when the input power drops too low (or is cut completely). That provides you with enough time to turn the computer off properly. Some people refuse to be without a UPS, even if they pretty much never have any problems with their power. I don't really have a good excuse for not having a UPS, other than it would take up space that I really don't want it taking up.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, an Uninterruptible Power Supply powers your computer with its batteries when the input power drops too low (or is cut completely). That provides you with enough time to turn the computer off properly. Some people refuse to be without a UPS, even if they pretty much never have any problems with their power. I don't really have a good excuse for not having a UPS, other than it would take up space that I really don't want it to take up.


Great, i just ordered this one https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd

Now i gotta figure out how to connect power strips, powerlines , ups and all other devices on just 1 wall plug lol


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Great, i just ordered this one https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd
> 
> Now i gotta figure out how to connect power strips, powerlines , ups and all other devices on just 1 wall plug lol


Is that known to be a good UPS? I don't know UPSs. I just know the basic idea of how they work.

Are you sure that wall outlet (it's not a plug ) can handle everything you intend to put on it? You can buy things that you plug in to the wall outlet to get more outlets, but you need to make sure the outlet itself is on a circuit that has enough power. Of course, it's good to make sure the outlet itself can have that much power passing through it.


----------



## Thoth420

FWIW my EVGA 850 P2 and 750 G2 both trip my backup quite frequently so maybe there is something to that claim. My previous Corsair RM 1000 and TX 750 basically never did. Same brand same unit battery backup in the same outlets obv same location. Just my 2 cents

I am having issues with my sig rig and never consider the PSU since it all seems RAM or chipset/cpu related but maybe I should try a different PSU. I would be sad to go back to Corsair units...


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is that known to be a good UPS? I don't know UPSs. I just know the basic idea of how they work.
> 
> Are you sure that wall outlet (it's not a plug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) can handle everything you intend to put on it? You can buy things that you plug in to the wall outlet to get more outlets, but you need to make sure the outlet itself is on a circuit that has enough power. Of course, it's good to make sure the outlet itself can have that much power passing through it.


APC and Cyberpower are the best UPS makers yes

you mean an outlet splitter? something like that:


I don't know, its not allowed to use a power strip before or after the UPS, i am not sure if i can use an outlet splitter though....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> APC and Cyberpower are the best UPS makers yes
> 
> you mean an outlet splitter? something like that:
> 
> 
> I don't know, its not allowed to use a power strip before or after the UPS, i am not sure if i can use an outlet splitter though....


I'm just trying to make sure that the exact model you bought is known to be good.

Anyway, yeah an outlet splitter or a power strip... it doesn't matter. What's wrong with using these things between the UPS and the wall outlet, or between the UPS and the computer? I don't see what the problem is.


----------



## Thoth420

I use a Cyberpower for 1500VA Tower for my main system, router and main display and an APC Backup strip 650 Watts I think for my slave HTPC, Xbox One and TV. They are in separate outlet banks in the same room.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm just trying to make sure that the exact model you bought is known to be good.
> 
> Anyway, yeah an outlet splitter or a power strip... it doesn't matter. What's wrong with using these things between the UPS and the wall outlet, or between the UPS and the computer? I don't see what the problem is.


On their website under FAQ it says:

Can I hook up a surge strip to the UPS unit?

Surge strips cannot be installed before OR after the UPS unit. Doing so will void the UPS' warranty. If you require additional units, please upgrade your UPS to a unit that has more outlets.

Well obviously, this is a way to sell bigger UPSes with more outlets right? By prohibiting you to use a 20-30$ powerstrip and force you to purchase a more expensive UPS with more outlets, sounds like marketing but i am not sure


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> On their website under FAQ it says:
> 
> Can I hook up a surge strip to the UPS unit?
> 
> Surge strips cannot be installed before OR after the UPS unit. Doing so will void the UPS' warranty. If you require additional units, please upgrade your UPS to a unit that has more outlets.
> 
> Well obviously, this is a way to sell bigger UPSes with more outlets right? By prohibiting you to use a 20-30$ powerstrip and force you to purchase a more expensive UPS with more outlets, sounds like marketing but i am not sure


Just plug the surge strip into the other outlet in that bank if you must but even moderate priced backups have plenty of outlets. One side is for the battery, surge and AVR and the other side is for just surge protection and AVR.
Just decide what needs battery and what doesn't for example I plug my speakers into the non battery side because I don't need audio output to shutdown in case of a power outage.


----------



## TwoCables

It'll void the warranty? If you ever needed warranty service for any reason, then how would they know what your setup was? That looks to me like they're just trying to cover their butts so that they have less service calls from idiots putting too many things onto one outlet or too many things through the UPS.

It's a sad world we live in when companies have to make these statements. I mean, it's common sense: your outlet isn't an unlimited power source, and adding outlets with power strips or whatever doesn't increase an outlet's capacity. But, stupid people are going to be stupid.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Just plug the surge strip into the other outlet in that bank if you must but even moderate priced backups have plenty of outlets. One side is for the battery, surge and AVR and the other side is for just surge protection and AVR.
> Just decide what needs battery and what doesn't for example I plug my speakers into the non battery side because I don't need audio output to shutdown in case of a power outage.


Thing is i want to use the UPS just for the critical devices, PC, Monitor and Router. My powerstrip is mounted under the desk that allows be to do very good cable management, having 6 (my UPS has 3 battery and 3 surge only) cables running from UPS to the desk would be a nightmare for cable management compared to 3
















Thats why i was considering daisy chaining it but...from what it seems i shouldnt


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It'll void the warranty? If you ever needed warranty service for any reason, then how would they know what your setup was? That looks to me like they're just trying to cover their butts so that they have less service calls from idiots putting too many things onto one outlet or too many things through the UPS.


Agreed and while I wouldn't daisy chain a strip and a backup there is no way they would know.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Thing is i want to use the UPS just for the critical devices, PC, Monitor and Router. My powerstrip is mounted under the desk that allows be to do very good cable management, having 6 (my UPS has 3 battery and 3 surge only) cables running from UPS to the desk would be a nightmare for cable management compared to 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats why i was considering daisy chaining it but...from what it seems i shouldnt


heh, I think they're just trying to reduce the number of service calls from idiots who think that their wall outlet can provide thousands and thousands of of watts - and then more when they use power strips. Y'know what I mean? You are a hell of a lot more intelligent than that, so don't worry about it. Just do what you need to do. You know better than to overload an outlet or a power strip. lol


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> heh, I think they're just trying to reduce the number of service calls from idiots who think that their wall outlet can provide thousands and thousands of of watts - and then more when they use power strips. Y'know what I mean? You are a hell of a lot more intelligent than that, so don't worry about it. Just do what you need to do. You know better than to overload an outlet or a power strip. lol


Things like Desk Lamps, Router, Modems and stuff dont draw a lot of wattage, it just that requires a lot of free wall outlets thats the bad thing...those are not stuff that can overload a wall outlet


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Things like Desk Lamps, Router, Modems and stuff dont draw a lot of wattage, it just that requires a lot of free wall outlets thats the bad thing...those are not stuff that can overload a wall outlet


Yeah, exactly. So, there's nothing wrong with using a power strip if you know what you're doing. You know what you're doing, so you're good to go.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, exactly. So, there's nothing wrong with using a power strip if you know what you're doing. You know what you're doing, so you're good to go.


So i will connect the UPS into the power strip, i hope it wont get fried, maybe the voltage and the wattage of the power strips affects the UPS? but i guess power is power though right? lol

Not to mention that the UPS, the 1500 VA i ordered has 6 outlets only and atm i use 8 outlets for my stuff (2 monitors, 1 PC, Desk Lamp, Router Modem, Ethernet Splitter, and a charger), in order to get a 8 outlets UPS i had to pay like 500 euro...which is insane...


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> So i will connect the UPS into the power strip, i hope it wont get fried, maybe the voltage and the wattage of the power strips affects the UPS? but i guess power is power though right? lol
> 
> Not to mention that the UPS, the 1500 VA i ordered has 6 outlets only and atm i use 8 outlets for my stuff (2 monitors, 1 PC, Desk Lamp, Router Modem, Ethernet Splitter, and a charger), in order to get a 8 outlets UPS i had to pay like 500 euro...which is insane...


How would it get fried? How is that possible? Think! 

As long as there's nothing being overloaded, it's fine.


----------



## Thoth420

Get an isobar power strip and it def won't get fried. I didn't see your post about the cable management until after my PM response. If anything fuzzes it will be the isobar and they will replace that on warranty which I doubt would ever happen.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Get an isobar power strip and it def won't get fried. I didn't see your post about the cable management until after my PM response. If anything fuzzes it will be the isobar and they will replace that on warranty which I doubt would ever happen.


That's a surge protector, but I agree that the ISOBAR surge protectors are just about the best. They aren't for protecting against what CyberPower is talking about here though. They're just trying to deal with less idiots.

Anyway, here's the ISOBAR I wish I had purchased, which is pretty much the best of the best:

http://www.tripplite.com/isobar-8-outlet-surge-protector-12-ft-cord-3840-joules~ISOBAR8ULTRA/

The one I ended up with is kind of silly for my setup:

http://www.tripplite.com/isobar-10-outlet-home-business-theater-surge-protector-8-ft-cord-3840-joules~HT10DBS/

It's still a badass, but lol yeah, it's kinda silly. The ISOBAR8ULTRA is even better and white and smaller and all 4 banks (8 outlets) are isolated instead of only 4 banks like on the HT10DBS.


----------



## Reystar

Those stuff are not available it says in my region, im located in Europe...fook me!


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Those stuff are not available it says in my region, im located in Europe...fook me!


You don't need it. You're getting a little too worked up over this stuff.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> _"... The surge-induced triggering of MOVs can cause damage to an upstream device, such as an uninterruptible power supply (UPS), which typically sees an overload condition while the surge is being suppressed. Therefore, it is recommended not to connect a surge-protected power strip to a UPS, but instead to rely solely on surge protection provided by the UPS itself ..."_
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_strip#Surge_protection_and_filtering


Any half-decent UPS comes with built-in surge protection and EMI/RFI filtering. If you need to daisy-chain a power strip DOWNSTREAM from the UPS, use a simple (no surge protection or filtering) power strip.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You don't need it. You're getting a little too worked up over this stuff.


I will use a 2 way outlet splitter, i think it looks the simplest and safest way as it will just the same thing as having another outlet wired nearby...1 outlet of the splitter will go to the UPS and the other one to the powersplitter, seems like a good plan i think


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I will use a 2 way outlet splitter, i think it looks the simplest and safest way as it will just the same thing as having another outlet wired nearby...1 outlet of the splitter will go to the UPS and the other one to the powersplitter, seems like a good plan i think


Yeah, whatever you want; as long as you're not overloading the outlet or the splitter, it's fine. Or you can connect the UPS to a nice power strip. Do whatever works for you; just be intelligent about it and don't overload anything. Remember, you're ultimately still limited by the outlet.


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, whatever you want; as long as you're not overloading the outlet or the splitter, it's fine. Or you can connect the UPS to a nice power strip. Do whatever works for you; just be intelligent about it and don't overload anything. Remember, you're ultimately still limited by the outlet.


i am not planning on connecting any more devices...

I think i will get that



You plug that to the outlet and it splits it into 2, left goes the UPS right goes the power strip


----------



## Reystar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Any half-decent UPS comes with built-in surge protection and EMI/RFI filtering. If you need to daisy-chain a power strip DOWNSTREAM from the UPS, use a simple (no surge protection or filtering) power strip.


What about my post just above? an outlet splitter wouldn't work better/safer?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You don't need it. You're getting a little too worked up over this stuff.


Half my fault...I am paranoid to the point of keeping things as simple as possible in this modern everything is synced world filled with hubs and daisy chains that resemble Russian Space Station from Armageddon.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> What about my post just above? an outlet splitter wouldn't work better/safer?


Power is power. Don't let that silly statement on Cyberpower's site worry you. Just use common sense and be intelligent.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> I will use a 2 way outlet splitter, i think it looks the simplest and safest way as it will just the same thing as having another outlet wired nearby...1 outlet of the splitter will go to the UPS and the other one to the powersplitter, seems like a good plan i think


Sounds OK to me. But keep an eye on the UPS in case it doesn't like the combination for whatever the reason (**** happens).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> @shilka some guy over some other forums (linustechtips i think?) told me that awhile back the Super Flower Leadex was found to have issues when severe brownouts occurred at the wall the PSU is plugged into and was encouraging me not to buy one
> 
> Do you know anything about this?


first
at least in my industry
3 phase - black out loss of all power on all 3 legs
brown out - loss of one leg, or power dropping too low on one or more legs

single phase -
black out loss of power ( all phases )
brown out - loss of power on one leg or power dropping too low ( IE 110v on 220v leg - 220 is 2* 110v legs in the us )

please show me a single psu that will deal nicely with the power dropping too low ( 90v, 80v? on 115v ) japan afaik has the smallest voltage of any country at 100vac and the bottom for most all electronics is 100vac that i have seen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Sometimes bad outlets or bad wiring (low quality power being delivered to the PSU) can cause major problems for even the best PSUs. So, if the power is bad to begin with, a brownout could cause major problems.
> 
> My old HX650 handled a brownout beautifully about 3-4 years ago. The 100W incandescent bulb in my ceiling light fixture looked like a dim night-light, yet my computer was still working just fine. Even my monitor was fine. Of course, my speakers, router and cable modem weren't working during the brownout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A UPS will help with all that scenarios though right?
Click to expand...

( a pc working through a brown out ) your house ( in the us ) has 2 phases of 115 it is quite possible that one phase was not affected
as to the question of reystar usually yes a ups will work great for what you need
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, an Uninterruptible Power Supply powers your computer with its batteries when the input power drops too low (or is cut completely). That provides you with enough time to turn the computer off properly. Some people refuse to be without a UPS, even if they pretty much never have any problems with their power. I don't really have a good excuse for not having a UPS, other than it would take up space that I really don't want it to take up.
> 
> 
> 
> Great, i just ordered this one https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd
> 
> Now i gotta figure out how to connect power strips, powerlines , ups and all other devices on just 1 wall plug lol
Click to expand...

great choice ! great ups !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> FWIW my EVGA 850 P2 and 750 G2 both trip my backup quite frequently so maybe there is something to that claim. My previous Corsair RM 1000 and TX 750 basically never did. Same brand same unit battery backup in the same outlets obv same location. Just my 2 cents
> 
> I am having issues with my sig rig and never consider the PSU since it all seems RAM or chipset/cpu related but maybe I should try a different PSU. I would be sad to go back to Corsair units...


what do you mean " trip my backup " do you mean ups? by trip do you mean the built in circuit breaker ? need mor einfos
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Is that known to be a good UPS? I don't know UPSs. I just know the basic idea of how they work.
> 
> Are you sure that wall outlet (it's not a plug
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) can handle everything you intend to put on it? You can buy things that you plug in to the wall outlet to get more outlets, but you need to make sure the outlet itself is on a circuit that has enough power. Of course, it's good to make sure the outlet itself can have that much power passing through it.
> 
> 
> 
> APC and Cyberpower are the best *Consumer* UPS makers yes
> 
> you mean an outlet splitter? something like that:
> 
> 
> I don't know, its not allowed to use a power strip before or after the UPS, i am not sure if i can use an outlet splitter though....
Click to expand...

fixed for you


----------



## TwoCables

No, my entire system was on the same outlet and the entire neighborhood was affected by the brownout (and so our entire house was affected by it). When I say "my entire system", I am talking about everything I mentioned in my post. If my computer's PSU and monitor were still receiving 115 or 120V, then my speakers, router and cable modem would've stayed on. Like I said, it wasn't just our entire house that was affected; it was the entire neighborhood.

I later asked Phaedrus2129 how my PSU and monitor were able to do this, and he taught me that the reason why they were still working was that they automatically adjusted. Sure, they were extremely inefficient during that time, but they were automatically adjusting so as to continue providing the same amount of power.


----------



## Mega Man

Impressive. I can see why they would esp if all digital voltage change but still.


----------



## Reystar

Just got my Super Flower Leadex, installed it and everything is great, i also ordered some red braided cable kit

Got a LeGrand normal Power Strip, not a one with surge protection, got my UPS too!

So here is the connectivity:

Wall outlet ---> Power Strip ---> and then on the power strip i plugged my UPS and my power line along with the Desk Lamp and one monitor

So far it says that it is working ok on Cyberpower's software so im happy







Hope it stays healthy like that xD


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Just got my Super Flower Leadex, installed it and everything is great, i also ordered some red braided cable kit
> 
> Got a LeGrand normal Power Strip, not a one with surge protection, got my UPS too!
> 
> So here is the connectivity:
> 
> Wall outlet ---> Power Strip ---> and then on the power strip i plugged my UPS and my power line along with the Desk Lamp and one monitor
> 
> So far it says that it is working ok on Cyberpower's software so im happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it stays healthy like that xD


It will be fine because the power strip is grounded to your grounded outlet (it's just extending your outlet's reach) and you're also not overloading anything. Like I said, don't let that statement on CyberPower's website cause you to worry. They're just trying to reduce the number of service calls from idiots who don't know what they're doing.


----------



## Thoth420

Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
> P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.


No, LED lights get hot to the touch. They just take a long time to heat up. Touch your LED light after it's been on for 30 minutes. Be careful; expect it to be very hot. They also take a while to cool off. Even a "40W equivalent" LED light will be warm after it has been on for a while. It might not exactly be *hot*, but it'll be warm. We don't possess lighting technology yet that doesn't produce heat. That's why LED lights have some sort of a heatsink or other means to dissipate the heat. If they didn't make any heat, then they wouldn't need any way to get rid of heat.

I've had this argument dozens of times in the past few years because it seems everyone thinks LED lights don't get warm just because they don't get hot within a few seconds after turning them on like incandescent bulbs do. Incandescent bulbs get hot super fast because there's a metal filament burning inside at an extremely high temperature. It's basically like a bonfire inside of the bulb. With LEDs, the LEDs themselves produce some heat, but the main source of heat is the part built into the base that's providing proper power to the LEDs. It's not 100% efficient, and so there's a gradual heat build-up over time due to some of the power being lost as heat. At some point, a point is reached where the LED light's cooling design reaches its limit and that's when it's at the highest temperature. This point is usually reached about 15-30 minutes after turning the light on.

This is why LED lights are generally not suitable for enclosed light fixtures. They will get too hot and the built-in power supply or power converter unit or whatever it is will burn out (its life will be shortened quite a bit).

If your LED light isn't dimmable, then a brownout will cause it to either cut off or flicker.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, LED lights get hot to the touch. They just take a long time to heat up. Touch your LED light after it's been on for 30 minutes. Be careful; expect it to be very hot. They also take a while to cool off. Even a "40W equivalent" LED light will be warm after it has been on for a while. It might not exactly be *hot*, but it'll be warm. We don't possess lighting technology yet that doesn't produce heat. That's why LED lights have some sort of a heatsink or other means to dissipate the heat. If they didn't make any heat, then they wouldn't need any way to get rid of heat.
> 
> I've had this argument dozens of times in the past few years because it seems everyone thinks LED lights don't get warm just because they don't get hot within a few seconds after turning them on like incandescent bulbs do. Incandescent bulbs get hot super fast because there's a metal filament burning inside at an extremely high temperature. It's basically like a bonfire inside of the bulb. With LEDs, the LEDs themselves produce some heat, but the main source of heat is the part built into the base that's providing proper power to the LEDs. It's not 100% efficient, and so there's a gradual heat build-up over time due to some of the power being lost as heat. At some point, a point is reached where the LED light's cooling design reaches its limit and that's when it's at the highest temperature. This point is usually reached about 15-30 minutes after turning the light on.
> 
> This is why LED lights are generally not suitable for enclosed light fixtures. They will get too hot and the built-in power supply or power converter unit or whatever it is will burn out (its life will be shortened quite a bit).
> 
> If your LED light isn't dimmable, then a brownout will cause it to either cut off or flicker.


I touched it last night after it was on for about 8 hours approx. I know it was at least 6 because I had that long of a game session and when I finished I decided to touch it and it was ice cold. Maybe it isn't an LED bulb but it is some fancy 60 dollar non mercury non agenda 21 non coil bulb and not an old filament style either. It also manages to not break when dropped as the housing seems to be plastic or some synthetic. i just recall the packaging saying it was LED but it is just standard white light no RGB or anything crazy. I more opted to get it because I don't like those new coiled bulbs even the new mercury free ones.

I don't doubt you just decided to mention it as I left my fingers on it for almost a minute and it didn't even remotely feel warm.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
> P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.


That is normal and should not be caused by power by power output but power input. I know I can adj all set points on mine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
> 
> P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.
> 
> 
> 
> No, LED lights get hot to the touch. They just take a long time to heat up. Touch your LED light after it's been on for 30 minutes. Be careful; expect it to be very hot. They also take a while to cool off. Even a "40W equivalent" LED light will be warm after it has been on for a while. It might not exactly be *hot*, but it'll be warm. We don't possess lighting technology yet that doesn't produce heat. That's why LED lights have some sort of a heatsink or other means to dissipate the heat. If they didn't make any heat, then they wouldn't need any way to get rid of heat.
> 
> I've had this argument dozens of times in the past few years because it seems everyone thinks LED lights don't get warm just because they don't get hot within a few seconds after turning them on like incandescent bulbs do. Incandescent bulbs get hot super fast because there's a metal filament burning inside at an extremely high temperature. It's basically like a bonfire inside of the bulb. With LEDs, the LEDs themselves produce some heat, but the main source of heat is the part built into the base that's providing proper power to the LEDs. It's not 100% efficient, and so there's a gradual heat build-up over time due to some of the power being lost as heat. At some point, a point is reached where the LED light's cooling design reaches its limit and that's when it's at the highest temperature. This point is usually reached about 15-30 minutes after turning the light on.
> 
> This is why LED lights are generally not suitable for enclosed light fixtures. They will get too hot and the built-in power supply or power converter unit or whatever it is will burn out (its life will be shortened quite a bit).
> 
> If your LED light isn't dimmable, then a brownout will cause it to either cut off or flicker.
Click to expand...

Very true and why leds were not used till recently as widespread as they are / as bright


----------



## Thoth420

Good to know MegaMan thanks! This unit wasnt cheap and I did my best to research the best one to suit my needs. I plan on getting a fresh battery even though it is at 100% the unit is pushing 3 years old.


----------



## Reystar

Just received an email response from cyberpower:

I regret to inform you that the chaining rules are quite inflexible. This makes any CyberPower product incompatible with your cord management practices. Nothing with more than one socket can be connected to another item with more than one socket regardless of order. The CyberPower must be plugged straight in to the wall and your connected equipment must be plugged straight in to the CyberPower with nothing in between. To do otherwise is a violation of electrical and fire code and will void the warranty.

I then asked what's the difference between parrarel connected wall outlets and a power strip ( not a surge strip )


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Good to know MegaMan thanks! This unit wasnt cheap and I did my best to research the best one to suit my needs. I plan on getting a fresh battery even though it is at 100% the unit is pushing 3 years old.


Test your battery if it still give the required time. If so save yourself some money


----------



## xTesla1856

My 1000 P2 stopped being screwy. No more random shutdowns. Not sure what caused it to go away, nothing has changed.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> My 1000 P2 stopped being screwy. No more random shutdowns. Not sure what caused it to go away, nothing has changed.


Maybe heat bake solved something similar to the old busted GPU in an oven deal...just shooting in the dark.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Test your battery if it still give the required time. If so save yourself some money


It tests ok so should I just not worry? I thought these degrade regardless of usage after years.
As usual thanks Mega Man you are a gentleman and scholar


----------



## Mega Man

If the battery is operational for the amount of time you need it is fine. Not like you have mission critical on your pc. If you were running a server maybe (when downtime costs money)

I have mine tested (automatically) every week iirc, at most every month. If the battery starts to loose capacity it will fail and I'll replace it mine is on a freenas and networking gear


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> I have disabled SLI before and it still happens, although I have not changed the GPU placement, also the highest ASIC GPU is at the top


Been so quiet Metros, are we fixed yet?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If the battery is operational for the amount of time you need it is fine. Not like you have mission critical on your pc. If you were running a server maybe (when downtime costs money)
> 
> I have mine tested (automatically) every week iirc, at most every month. If the battery starts to loose capacity it will fail and I'll replace it mine is on a freenas and networking gear


Yeah true I only use it to prevent damage from brownouts and to shut down my PC safely if I am using it during a full outage.


----------



## Benjiw

Hi guys was wondering if someone could help me out with a query I have? Basically has anyone made their own sleeving/cables for their own 750 or 850 G2? It feels like there is a capacitor or resistor where its heat shrinked by the plugs for the GPU is this correct and if so how do people get passed this when making their own sleeves?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Hi guys was wondering if someone could help me out with a query I have? Basically has anyone made their own sleeving/cables for their own 750 or 850 G2? It feels like there is a capacitor or resistor where its heat shrinked by the plugs for the GPU is this correct and if so how do people get passed this when making their own sleeves?


Yes there are capacitors in the cables and if you remove them you are going to make the ripple suppression of your G2/P2 slighty worse.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes there are capacitors in the cables and if you remove them you are going to make the ripple suppression of your G2/P2 slighty worse.


If I made my own cables and put the caps lower down or half way then I'll keep that suppression and train my cables better, is that correct?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If I made my own cables and put the caps lower down or half way then I'll keep that suppression and train my cables better, is that correct?


Even moving them will change the ripple suppression as tiny tom logan from overclock3d.net found out
Just note that when i say worse i dont mean you are going to kill your PSU or its going to explode or anything like that

We are probably talking 20-25mv if its that much but worse is still worse.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Even moving them will change the ripple suppression as tiny tom logan from overclock3d.net found out
> Just note that when i say worse i dont mean you are going to kill your PSU or its going to explode or anything like that
> 
> We are probably walking 20-25mv if its that much but worse is still worse.


Any idea if I can move them or change the type of capacitor? I imagine its due to resistance of the wire length and gauge also plays a role in the suppression?


----------



## shilka

I dont know what type of caps they use but you should probably not change them
Speaking of the devil TTL why dont you watch this video




You can can make your own cables from CableMod so why not use them instead of making your own cables?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont know what type of caps they use but you should probably not change them
> Speaking of the devil TTL why dont you watch this video
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can can make your own cables from CableMod so why not use them instead of making your own cables?


I don't like him personally so do you know when he speaks about it? And the reason why I'd like to make my own is because eventually I'd like to offer it as a service myself as a side job.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I don't like him personally so do you know when he speaks about it? And the reason why I'd like to make my own is because eventually I'd like to offer it as a service myself as a side job.


I dont like him all that much either but that does not mean he is wrong
As for sleeving and stuff i am not the person you should ask as i dont know a lot about cable sleeving


----------



## JackCY

Don't these customs sleeve shops have some Chinese slave shop or a machine that does this work? Even then the cables often cost as much as 1 or even 2 new PSUs. Considering sleeving costs cents it's just outrageous price to pay $100-200 for custom sleeved cables. It's a pure show off item for open cases in presentations.
You can put the caps where ever you want, even swap them for other caps with different performance that you like/prefer more, it's all gonna change how well they do at ripple suppression. At best you want them at the end of the cables.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Don't these customs sleeve shops have some Chinese slave shop or a machine that does this work? Even then the cables often cost as much as 1 or even 2 new PSUs. Considering sleeving costs cents it's just outrageous price to pay $100-200 for custom sleeved cables. It's a pure show off item for open cases in presentations.
> You can put the caps where ever you want, even swap them for other caps with different performance that you like/prefer more, it's all gonna change how well they do at ripple suppression. At best you want them at the end of the cables.


Which end? Also not that I'm aware of, normally they're hand made hence the price because it takes a lot of man hours to do custom sleeves to customer spec, it might be a show off item but then why do people buy performance parts with fancy lights on them etc, because it's also nice to look at, I have a windowed Define S and I'm proud of what I've built so I'd like so nice cables to go with my overall build. If you're not about it that's fine lol but everyone's different.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I don't like him personally so do you know when he speaks about it? And the reason why I'd like to make my own is because eventually I'd like to offer it as a service myself as a side job.


I don't see any reason to dislike this guy.

Anyway, all he says in the video is that if you are ordering replacement cables for a PSU that has caps on any of the cables you're replacing for that PSU, then you will get caps on those cables in the correct places with the correct caps. CableMod knows which cables need caps and where they need to be installed based on the model of PSU you're ordering for.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't see any reason to dislike this guy.
> 
> Anyway, all he says in the video is that if you are ordering replacement cables for a PSU that has caps on any of the cables you're replacing for that PSU, then you will get caps on those cables in the correct places with the correct caps. CableMod knows which cables need caps and where they need to be installed based on the model of PSU you're ordering for.


Here is all the reason you need to dislike him




Those results is because the testing machine is set up wrong which means he pretty much killed off a whole brand because of his stupid mistake
That video is still up and has never been taken down nor has he explained anything, i only found out about his mistake from OklahomaWolf that called him out on his mistake

That and the way he goes off topic and just talks forever without really saying anything is also really annoying.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Here is all the reason you need to dislike him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those results is because the testing machine is set up wrong which means he pretty much killed off a whole brand because of his stupid mistake
> That video is still up and has never been taken down nor has he explained anything, i only found out about his mistake from OklahomaWolf that called him out on his mistake
> 
> That and the way he goes off topic and just talks forever without really saying anything is also really annoying.


So? I make mistakes every day. Has anyone ever had a personal conversation with him about this?

I'm not going to hate someone just because they made a mistake. Besides, that was 4 years ago.


----------



## shilka

You dont make mistakes that ruin and destroys entire companies forever


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont make mistakes that ruin entire companies forever


Let it go. It was 4 years ago.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Let it go. It was 4 years ago.


I have but i still find his almost endless off topic talking annoying
You can often skip half of his videos without missing anything


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have but i still find his almost endless off topic talking annoying
> You can often skip half of his videos without missing anything


Omg dude. He's a frickin' human being. Come on! Do you think that he should be absolutely perfect just because he's on YouTube or something?

Look, I'm not going to hate someone unless they repeatedly and intentionally do things to me PERSONALLY that are extremely rude and disrespectful. He's not bothering me personally, so I have no good reason to hate him. He can be however he wants. Accept people for the way they are. If everyone were to be exactly the way YOU want them to be, then this world would be extremely boring for you. Embrace people for their imperfections and whatnot. That's a part of what makes them who they are. If you hate them for it, then that makes you a lowly hater.

Do you enjoy it when people openly hate you for your imperfections and shortcomings? Do you enjoy it when people hate you just because you aren't up to their ridiculously high standards for what makes a human being completely acceptable?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Omg dude. He's a frickin' human being. Come on!


Yes he is but his reviews are often too long, he did a case review that was freaking 1 hour and 40 mins long!
He is also bised towards Corsair or at least he comes off that way due to all the Corsair talking he is always doing, his main sponsor is Corsair so that might be why but it just rubs me the wrong way

Anyway i watch some of his videos but i dont like him all that much due to a number of reasons and many share my feeling about him
You should check out his forum pretty much ever hardcore úber Corsair fanboy is on there and if you do any kind of negative talk about Corsair the whole forum goes on a witch hunt.


----------



## fjordiales

I didn't know this thread existed...




Can I join?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yes he is but his reviews are often too long, he did a case review that was freaking 1 hour and 40 mins long!
> He is also bised towards Corsair or at least he comes off that way due to all the Corsair talking he is always doing, his main sponsor is Corsair so that might be why
> 
> Any way i watch some of his videos but i dont like him all that much due to a number of reasons and many share my feeling about him
> You should check out his forum pretty much ever hardcore úber Corsair fanboy is on there and if you do any kind of negative talk about Corsair the whole forum goes on a witch hunt.


You're trying to get me to hate someone I don't even know, and that's not cool. I'm not interested. You've never even met him personally or anything and neither have I. You can't judge a person this way because you don't have enough to base your judgments on. I think your opinion of him would change if you were to really get to know him in person. That's just how it is with people. You can hate them for the way they are in the public eye, but get to know them privately and it's completely different.

So again, I'm not going to hate someone just because someone else is telling me that there are lots of good reasons to. He hasn't wronged me personally, and so I don't care.


----------



## shilka

I am not trying to get you to hate him and i really dont want to talk more about him so end of story
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fjordiales*
> 
> I didn't know this thread existed...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join?


Added to the owners list


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I am not trying to get you to hate him


Yes you are. You even specifically told me that I should hate him.

Don't be a hater, man. It's only going to cause others to hate you. I dare you to start talking to this guy privately.


----------



## TwoCables

I could almost use the old saying that goes, "You can't judge a book by its cover".


----------



## TwoCables

I just get really sick and tired of people hating on public figures when they don't even know the person privately.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I just get really sick and tired of people hating on public figures when they don't even know the person privately.


Because he's a techtuber in the public limelight I'm allowed to have an opinion on him, techtubers make mistakes and then brush it under the carpet and I'm sick of it. His videos are far too long, boring and sometimes I don't even get why he's made the vid, he talks briefly about ripple suppression but doesn't even tough the topic properly for such a long video I ended up skipping 90% of.

If you like them, fine, but don't change other people's opinions cos they don't line up with yours, that's not how it works. Agree to disagree and move on.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Because he's a techtuber in the public limelight I'm allowed to have an opinion on him, techtubers make mistakes and then brush it under the carpet and I'm sick of it. His videos are far too long, boring and sometimes I don't even get why he's made the vid, he talks briefly about ripple suppression but doesn't even tough the topic properly for such a long video I ended up skipping 90% of.
> 
> If you like them, fine, but don't change other people's opinions cos they don't line up with yours, that's not how it works. Agree to disagree and move on.


Whoa, I never said that I like them or that I like him. I'm just saying you guys are hating a fellow human being, and based on what?! Really? What are you basing it on? You don't even know the guy, yet you hate him. That doesn't make sense.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Which end? Also not that I'm aware of, normally they're hand made hence the price because it takes a lot of man hours to do custom sleeves to customer spec, it might be a show off item but then why do people buy performance parts with fancy lights on them etc, because it's also nice to look at, I have a windowed Define S and I'm proud of what I've built so I'd like so nice cables to go with my overall build. If you're not about it that's fine lol but everyone's different.


The component you want to power that's where you want to add the caps. The ripple is already so small it takes tricks like this to lower it even more.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have but i still find his almost endless off topic talking annoying
> You can often skip half of his videos without missing anything


That's the OC3D right? Yeah I can't stand too long reviews with too much blah blah and that's not just online, get to the freakin' point when presenting stuff. When I read reviews I may skimp one and then just browse the graphs I prefer from other 10, not read the damn 10 pages hell no.
Same with YouTube, skip to the important parts, graphs, if they talk useful stuff then 1.25x speed or even 1.5x for the true slow talkers.
This particular OC3D? I can't stand his accent I don't know why I just don't like it and there are better reviews than what OC3D does. Maybe he's British or Scottish I don't know but that accent I don't like, it used to be real bad year or two ago in his videos. I can understand it but it just sounds awful.

Watching one review just now, freakin' 12min until he shows graphs all before that is 12min of looking at the card and talking my ear off, the graphs last 20s and off he goes into the next 5min of talking, come on. So there you go this is what I don't like about OC3D.
I'm definitely there with Shilka, skipping, fast forwarding and not being interested in that babble going on and on. If I want to hear babble I can go on twitch for reviews/news.


----------



## shilka

He is british and he is not new on youtube in fact i think he start out around 2010 or something?
Really liked him to begin with but the more i learned the more i started to disagree with him and when he started getting more and more off topic i stopped watching his videos for a long time

Started watching him again earlier here in 2016 and he has not gotten better

As a person i am sure he is a nice guy and i got nothing against him despite what everyone think
But as a youtuber and as a professional reviewer i dont like him and the way he talks forever without really saying anything or getting to the point and i really dont like the way he comes off as biased.


----------



## xTesla1856

3rd day now with no shutdowns. Still no idea as to what fixed it


----------



## Mega Man

Did your drivers or Windows update?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Did your drivers or Windows update?


Windows hasn't updated in a while, I did reinstall some drivers in order to fix some bluescreens I was having. Not sure that has to do with the PSU though, but who knows?


----------



## Mega Man

Why does everyone assume shutdowns are psu....


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why does everyone assume shutdowns are psu....


Because it makes the most sense in my case, my PC insta-dies while writing a word document or watching a youtube video. No errors in event manager, no bluescreens, no warning. Poof, black screen and the PC is off. It restarts itself after a few seconds. I've had this happen once before with an RM850, so I assumed it was again PSU related. Now I'm not so sure anymore.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Because it makes the most sense in my case, my PC insta-dies while writing a word document or watching a youtube video. No errors in event manager, no bluescreens, no warning. Poof, black screen and the PC is off. It restarts itself after a few seconds. I've had this happen once before with an RM850, so I assumed it was again PSU related. Now I'm not so sure anymore.


Messed up drivers for almost any hardware can cause the system to halt like that. Namely GPU


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Because it makes the most sense in my case, my PC insta-dies while writing a word document or watching a youtube video. No errors in event manager, no bluescreens, no warning. Poof, black screen and the PC is off. It restarts itself after a few seconds. I've had this happen once before with an RM850, so I assumed it was again PSU related. Now I'm not so sure anymore.


I recently helped someone that had a GPU overheating issue that caused this. I also had this happen to me recently, exact same symptom. The problem on my end was I was trying to run a 3.2GHz rated memory at 3.2GHz using a 5930K. It just didn't work out until I removed half the memory so down to 4 sticks instead of 8 on an x99 and it was stable, I also tried 2.8GHz and it was stable with all 8 sticks. All 8 sticks worked just fine with the exact same settings but using a broadwell-e instead. It was definitely not the PSU in my case.

I hope one of those solves your problem. Good luck.


----------



## Mega Man

and the above is why i asked. many causes, psus are least likely cause even in your case.

most people ( this is not directed at you, but just a statement of fact. ) just tend to blame the thing they dont understand the most


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and the above is why i asked. many causes, psus are least likely cause even in your case.
> 
> most people ( this is not directed at you, but just a statement of fact. ) just tend to blame the thing they dont understand the most


Seems like the motherboard drivers were the culprit for now, PC hasn't shut off since the reinstalls. Weird, as I never got any errors and it just happened. Anyway, I'm glad my 1000 P2 works as it should, thanks for the input guys


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and the above is why i asked. many causes, psus are least likely cause even in your case.
> 
> most people ( this is not directed at you, but just a statement of fact. ) just tend to blame the thing they dont understand the most


Mega, do you actually still play that game?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Seems like the motherboard drivers were the culprit for now, PC hasn't shut off since the reinstalls. Weird, as I never got any errors and it just happened. Anyway, I'm glad my 1000 P2 works as it should, thanks for the input guys


Glad it's working out for you.


----------



## Mega Man

i do , and many others


----------



## sebna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reystar*
> 
> Just got my Super Flower Leadex, installed it and everything is great, i also ordered some red braided cable kit
> 
> Got a LeGrand normal Power Strip, not a one with surge protection, got my UPS too!
> 
> So here is the connectivity:
> 
> Wall outlet ---> Power Strip ---> and then on the power strip i plugged my UPS and my power line along with the Desk Lamp and one monitor
> 
> So far it says that it is working ok on Cyberpower's software so im happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it stays healthy like that xD


How do you find the fan when you put it off the Eco mode?


----------



## ireniqs

Hi guys!

This is mine glorious Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W:


Can you add me to owner list?


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Been so quiet Metros, are we fixed yet?


Sorry, been testing a few different things

So I have taken out 2 RAM modules, one GPU (bottom GPU is now top and only using one) and did unplug two SSDs, for 5 days now I have not had a single freeze during or after gaming, I will be doing some more testing and then will put in the RAM to test

Edit

That seems strange, just happened on idle, did not even play a game, that was after I plugged in both my SSDs again, so I am now testing with one SSD installed


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Got a power plug overheating problem.

With the original power cord for the SuperNova 1300W G2 plugged into a Belkin power strip / surge protector rated for 1850W, the plug of the power cord at the power strip's end gets to 70C according to my infrared thermometer.

Load is about 90%, drawing about 1300W from the outlet.

Right now it's plugged directly into the outlet since I suspect the Belkin power strip is not rated at 1850W for any port, but 1850W in total.

Edit: The power plug is 50C and rising when plugged directly into the wall outlet.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Got a power plug overheating problem.
> 
> With the original power cord for the SuperNova 1300W G2 plugged into a Belkin power strip / surge protector rated for 1850W, the plug of the power cord at the power strip's end gets to 70C according to my infrared thermometer.
> 
> Load is about 90%, drawing about 1300W from the outlet.
> 
> Right now it's plugged directly into the outlet since I suspect the Belkin power strip is not rated at 1850W for any port, but 1850W in total.


Yeah, it's 1875W *total* (it wouldn't make any sense to have each outlet rated for 1875W). That's standard for power strips and surge protectors here in the U.S. So, I would definitely expect some heat pulling 1300W out of it, if you're really pulling 1300W. After all, that's about 70% of what it's capable of delivering. Of course, 70°C is awfully hot, because that's 158°F. I don't know whether this is normal, but hey, if it's not melting then I guess there's no problem?

Is it just a coincidence that you're pulling 1300W and you have a 1300W PSU? Or are you assuming it's 1300W because you have a 1300W PSU?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Edit: The power plug is 50C and rising when plugged directly into the wall outlet.


My 1100W canister vacuum's power cord gets quite hot too. So does my 1500W heater's cord.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Thanks for the reply. I re-positioned my air circulator, and now it blows some air over the power outlet which helped to drop the power plug temp by about 20C.

I'm actually pulling about 1300W from the wall.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I re-positioned my air circulator, and now it blows some air over the power outlet which helped to drop the power plug temp by about 20C.
> 
> I'm actually pulling about 1300W from the wall.


So then it's just a coincidence that you have a 1300W PSU and are also pulling about 1300W? I'm just asking because too many people come here thinking that their PSU is always pulling its advertised capacity.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I measured exactly 1kW using a power meter when I had 4 GPUs. I added 2 more RX 480 and haven't measured the new power draw, but it should be pretty close to 1300W.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I measured exactly 1kW using a power meter when I had 4 GPUs. I added 2 more RX 480 and haven't measured the new power draw, but it should be pretty close to 1300W.


Wow. Nice rig. It makes mine look like a pocket calculator. 

I wonder now if a better surge protector or power strip would result in its plug not getting so hot. I dunno. I can only speculate.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Got a power plug overheating problem.
> 
> With the original power cord for the SuperNova 1300W G2 plugged into a Belkin power strip / surge protector rated for 1850W, the plug of the power cord at the power strip's end gets to 70C according to my infrared thermometer.
> 
> Load is about 90%, drawing about 1300W from the outlet.
> 
> Right now it's plugged directly into the outlet since I suspect the Belkin power strip is not rated at 1850W for any port, but 1850W in total.
> 
> Edit: The power plug is 50C and rising when plugged directly into the wall outlet.


2 things Ir thermometers are notoriously incorrect

And
If it is true probably a loose connection somewhere in the cable or outlet probably cable due to it happening in both. Either way until late it is fixed assuming the 70c was correct I would NOT use it. Even with a fan on it

That is (assuming it is correct) the otter temp. Not the inner temp.

Repair or replace the cord or risk damage

They should not get that hot.
Iirc evga uses ends that come apart like this









If they are not serviceable. Get a new one


----------



## Metros

So now what happens is that gaming and going idle seems to be normally fine (can still happen) however when I start downloading a game it can freeze

For example my computer used to freeze during Elite Dangerous, now it seems to be fine (since taking out two RAM modules, one GPU and two SSDs)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metros*
> 
> So now what happens is that gaming and going idle seems to be normally fine (can still happen) however when I start downloading a game it can freeze
> 
> For example my computer used to freeze during Elite Dangerous, now it seems to be fine (since taking out two RAM modules, one GPU and two SSDs)


Sounds like its one of your RAM or SSD´s so put them back one at a time untill you find the one with the problem
Its probably one of your SSD´s but who knows.


----------



## smke

I have a question I am getting the Asus x99 deluxe 2. My question is should I get the 28 pci lane cpu or the 40 pci lane one? Here is what I am going to have plugged in three hd's s one sad a tv tuner a sound card and one gpu' and two DVDs drives and the Ian from front of case 2.0 and 3.0 and both nic s


----------



## Kimir

The 28 lanes one will do with that setup.
Not sure why you ask that in a PSU thread tho.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smke*
> 
> I have a question I am getting the Asus x99 deluxe 2. My question is should I get the 28 pci lane cpu or the 40 pci lane one? Here is what I am going to have plugged in three hd's s one sad a tv tuner a sound card and one gpu' and two DVDs drives and the Ian from front of case 2.0 and 3.0 and both nic s


28 lanes is more than enough.

I'm with Kimir: I'm not sure why you are asking in a PSU thread which is located in the PSU forum. It would have been better to ask in the forum called "Intel - General" in a new thread that you could have created.

Still, 28 lanes is more than enough. You have a very common system. 40 lanes would be needed if you had multiple video cards and a lot more of other things that use PCI-E lanes. That's why the X99 chipset accepts CPUs that have up to 40 lanes: some people who have extreme systems will need them. You probably won't even exceed 16 lanes with your setup.


----------



## Kimir

I think he realized his mistake and posted it right after in the X99 thread.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I think he realized his mistake and posted it right after in the X99 thread.


Oh man. I feel so abandoned. Come back, smke! The smell of your brainfart isn't *that* bad!


----------



## Metros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Sounds like its one of your RAM or SSD´s so put them back one at a time untill you find the one with the problem
> Its probably one of your SSD´s but who knows.


Yeah, I am doing that now, when I took both my SSDs out, the system was fine for 5 days, yet when I put them back in, I start having problems when installing games. I have tried only putting one in at a time and it still happens, along with changing the SATA ports

I then decided to update my Motherboard BIOS, then it gave me a problem. The Motherboard BIOS does install fine, yet when it goes to load the BIOS after competition, it restarts the system then power cycles, until you turn it off and on from the PSU, it does this every time you boot from the system, however once it loads, the system is fine


----------



## ToxM82

Hello all!

I have been sitting on my EVGA 1000G2 Supernova now for awhile (Been busy with my rig) I am finally ready for cabling and I am running some custom sleeving... One issue I am not understanding is "What the hell is with these inline capacitors, on the MB cables and VGA cables"...

I noticed their pre-sleeved kits do not have them inline at all, or even double cables in some places on the 12 to 14 pin connector... I went a head and made the MB cables work but just sleeving up to the caps and was able to hide the cable just enough so no big deal there. I however will not be able to do that for my GPU's... My idea was to cut out about a 2mm section mid way in the cable and then solder the capacitor there inline just obviously higher up the cable, this would allow me to sleeve the part that is showing in the front of the case (Thermal-take P5)... This isn't hard to do really, just more time and I only have 2 cables to do anyways but my question is, do I really have to bother?

Or can I get away with just cutting them out and not worry about it?

Thanks in advanced!









Here are some shots of my current work:


----------



## shilka

The caps on the cables are there to keep the ripple as low as it it is
If you remove them you will make the ripple slightly worse but not by huge amounts.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> I have been sitting on my EVGA 1000G2 Supernova now for awhile (Been busy with my rig) I am finally ready for cabling and I am running some custom sleeving... One issue I am not understanding is "What the hell is with these inline capacitors, on the MB cables and VGA cables"...
> 
> I noticed their pre-sleeved kits do not have them inline at all, or even double cables in some places on the 12 to 14 pin connector... I went a head and made the MB cables work but just sleeving up to the caps and was able to hide the cable just enough so no big deal there. I however will not be able to do that for my GPU's... My idea was to cut out about a 2mm section mid way in the cable and then solder the capacitor there inline just obviously higher up the cable, this would allow me to sleeve the part that is showing in the front of the case (Thermal-take P5)... This isn't hard to do really, just more time and I only have 2 cables to do anyways but my question is, do I really have to bother?
> 
> Or can I get away with just cutting them out and not worry about it?
> 
> Thanks in advanced!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots of my current work:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The caps on the cables are there to keep the ripple as low as it it is
> If you remove them you will make the ripple slightly worse but not by huge amounts.


I would leave them out and test it before sleeving them to make sure but I have never needed capacitors on any PSU but maybe my GPU OC would be more stable, I can't imagine it to be a huge difference though.


----------



## Mega Man

You have Def needed caps in you psu. Everyone does


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You have Def needed caps in you psu. Everyone does


they're so fuggle though, i'll take the interference/performance hits what ever it is


----------



## Mega Man

you didnt get the joke :/ there are caps in every psu, but not always on the cables


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you didnt get the joke :/ there are caps in every psu, but not always on the cables


oh lol. as long as they are actually inside the psu it's all good


----------



## sherlock

So I am considering getting a 650 P2 since it is going for $80 AR on Newegg ATM, but among 17 reviews there are 3 verfied owner who claim it fried their PC. Is it really that bad or there are a larger than usual % of dimwits who buy it on Newegg these days







?

Update: Pulled the trigger anyway, Looks like there are quite a few here that bought 650 P2 recently and have no problem with it. Will be a nice upgrade for me, mainly because my Corsair 750 RMi Gold is too long and take up too much cable management room in my H440.


----------



## MicroCat

I've used 3 550 G2s and a 750 G2 in different builds and each one has been fine, exceptional even. Can only assume more dimwits or since EVGA is leading the quality PSU market, paid FUD trolls. Or they're idiots. Or idiotic dimwits. Or just unlucky dimwits...

Not saying bad things can't happen with great products, but remember those egg reviews are a tiny, tiny, tiny fraction of units sold. Even the best of the best with the best QA will still produce a few duds. If you want absolute PSU certainty, pick a different planet. ;-)

EVGA includes a test block, so you can spark up the PSU and test the voltages with your own multimeter before connecting to a real system.

In my experience the Leadex platform that EVGA use is one of the best built, best performing PSU. In my dimwitted years of building many systems.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> I've used 3 550 G2s and a 750 G2 in different builds and each one has been fine, exceptional even. Can only assume more dimwits or since EVGA is leading the quality PSU market, paid FUD trolls. Or they're idiots. Or idiotic dimwits. Or just unlucky dimwits...
> 
> Not saying bad things can't happen with great products, but remember those egg reviews are a tiny, tiny, tiny fraction of units sold. Even the best of the best with the best QA will still produce a few duds. If you want absolute PSU certainty, pick a different planet. ;-)
> 
> EVGA includes a test block, so you can spark up the PSU and test the voltages with your own multimeter before connecting to a real system.
> 
> In my experience the Leadex platform that EVGA use is one of the best built, best performing PSU. In my dimwitted years of building many systems.


Yeah I think it should be fine, too bad I don't have a mutlimeter. My Mobo is still in return period and have surge protection so I think I am totally covered.


----------



## TwoCables

Customer reviews of PSUs are usually very useless because like 99.99% of those people don't have any PSU-related knowledge. To them, a PSU is a PSU and that's all there is to it.

The entire SuperNOVA G2/P2/T2 line of PSUs is the Super Flower Leadex series, which is pretty high-end. You made the right choice. You will be extremely impressed.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> So I am considering getting a 650 P2 since it is going for $80 AR on Newegg ATM, but among 17 reviews there are 3 verfied owner who claim it fried their PC. Is it really that bad or there are a larger than usual % of dimwits who buy it on Newegg these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> Update: Pulled the trigger anyway, Looks like there are quite a few here that bought 650 P2 recently and have no problem with it. Will be a nice upgrade for me, mainly because my Corsair 750 RMi Gold is too long and take up too much cable management room in my H440.


Their PC must of been faulty or they plugged the wrong plug in to the wrong header, my G2 is a beautiful bit of kit that keeps all my overclocks perfectly powered even my 8350 at high volts etc. I highly recommend the G2 and upwards range all the time, you can tell by the build quality just how good it is alone.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Their PC must of been faulty or they plugged the wrong plug in to the wrong heading, my G2 is a beautiful bit of kit that keeps all my overclocks perfectly powered even my 8350 at high volts etc. I highly recommend the G2 and upwards range all the time, you can tell by the build quality just how good it is alone.


What do you mean by "the wrong plug in to the wrong heading"? Here in the USA, you can only plug a PSU in one way. Only one end can fit into the PSU, and only one end can fit into the wall outlet. The end that fits into the wall outlet can only go into the outlet one way too.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What do you mean by "the wrong plug in to the wrong heading"? Here in the USA, you can only plug a PSU in one way. Only one end can fit into the PSU, and only one end can fit into the wall outlet. The end that fits into the wall outlet can only go into the outlet one way too.


Floppy adapter in a fan header kills a lot of boards. Seen it plenty on Linus tard tips forum.


----------



## Mega Man

He is talking about the berg connectors


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MicroCat*
> 
> Can only assume more dimwits or since EVGA is leading the quality PSU market, paid FUD trolls. Or they're idiots. Or idiotic dimwits. Or just unlucky dimwits...


It's PUBLIC viewpoints and you know what that means, some are really ignorant on how to put together a fully working PC because anyone can connect the cables and wallah, you have a functioning PC.

Along the way some decide to cut corners by assembling it differently because it had always worked for them 10 or 20 years ago but unfortunately it failed this time. So instead of blaming themselves (god forbid) far easier to blame Newegg, Evga and anyone else in their firing sites.

People these days ALL think they are first class builders when in fact it's less than 5 percent of actual builders, working for large businesses that fit into that category. For them there is a follow through, you never ignore or cut corners on, that is why those very same experts build PCs and test them for days or even weeks before releasing them into the workplace for service.

First know your componentry and drivers, then you have a trustworthy setup.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Floppy adapter in a fan header kills a lot of boards. Seen it plenty on Linus tard tips forum.


Oh, you meant "header". The word "heading" ended up in your post and I was confused.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Oh, you meant "header". The word "heading" ended up in your post and I was confused.


Corrected.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Corrected.


Did you just correct an auto-correct?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Did you just correct an auto-correct?


No it was my mistake I don't often read as I type sadly, but I've corrected the error now after your input.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> No it was my mistake I don't often read as I type sadly, but I've corrected the error now after your input.


Oh.


----------



## sherlock

Got my Supernova 650 P2 from newegg installed today, everything runs great. Only minor compliant is that both VGA power cable are 6+8Pin so I needed 2 cables to power my dual 8pin 1080FTW.





Please add me to the 650 P2 owner club. Glad to join.

Got my 10 year warranty registered, Will be using this one for a while. Probably until 650 T2 can be had at around this price($100).


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## wermad

Is the G2 1300 good to join this club?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is the G2 1300 good to join this club?


Yeah of course, but you have to have a photo of the one you bought just as it says in the 2nd post of the OP.


----------



## wermad




----------



## sherlock

EVGA is now selling sleeved cables for G2/P2/T2.



> New EVGA SuperNOVA G2/P2/T2 Power Supply sleeved cable sets, available now! https://t.co/enVUnn8wMF pic.twitter.com/oD7PsRYDsX
> 
> - EVGA (@TEAMEVGA)




__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/761671976133853185
Have no experience with the sleeved cable market, is the price from all supplier this high or is EVGA just milking it?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> EVGA is now selling sleeved cables for G2/P2/T2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New EVGA SuperNOVA G2/P2/T2 Power Supply sleeved cable sets, available now! https://t.co/enVUnn8wMF pic.twitter.com/oD7PsRYDsX
> 
> - EVGA (@TEAMEVGA)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/761671976133853185
> Have no experience with the sleeved cable market, is the price from all supplier this high or is EVGA just milking it?
Click to expand...

About what I paid for mine


----------



## Mega Man

Very reasonable


----------



## pez

I've got a 550 G2 in my second build (the GFs build) and I really enjoy it. However, I am going ITX as well (my main build is going to be transplanted into a ITX build with the exception of the Samsung Evo 840) and I'm thinking with the Titan and my power target raised, a 650 is more appropriate. I thought I remembered seeing that the fan is much noisier on one of the 650 units (G2 or P2). Am I correct in remembering this? It seems the only difference is platinum vs gold, but both seem to be stellar choices. Any particular one you guys recommend over the other?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I've got a 550 G2 in my second build (the GFs build) and I really enjoy it. However, I am going ITX as well (my main build is going to be transplanted into a ITX build with the exception of the Samsung Evo 840) and I'm thinking with the Titan and my power target raised, a 650 is more appropriate. I thought I remembered seeing that the fan is much noisier on one of the 650 units (G2 or P2). Am I correct in remembering this? It seems the only difference is platinum vs gold, but both seem to be stellar choices. Any particular one you guys recommend over the other?


Unless you plan on overclocking as hard as you can, a good quality-made 550W PSU is more than enough.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Unless you plan on overclocking as hard as you can, a good quality-made 550W PSU is more than enough.


That's what I was thinking as well. I know with my power target maxed on the Titan X, it's pulling up to 300w on its own. The CPU is at 1.28v and 4.5GHz (not sure what that actually translates to in power) and then I'll have 3 or 4 drives and a SATA powered PWM hub. Is 550w still acceptable in this scenario?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> That's what I was thinking as well. I know with my power target maxed on the Titan X, it's pulling up to 300w on its own. The CPU is at 1.28v and 4.5GHz (not sure what that actually translates to in power) and then I'll have 3 or 4 drives and a SATA powered PWM hub. Is 550w still acceptable in this scenario?


300W? Where are you seeing that?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> 300W? Where are you seeing that?


Stock TDP is 250w, and G3D estimated at stock they were pulling 261w. And this is with no OC. So 120% power target for the card will allow it to use up to 300w. If it actually gets here during gaming is another story, but I'd think I'd rather be safe than sorry







.

Edit: link
http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/nvidia-geforce-titan-x-pascal-review,7.html


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Stock TDP is 250w, and G3D estimated at stock they were pulling 261w. And this is with no OC. So 120% power target for the card will allow it to use up to 300w. If it actually gets here during gaming is another story, but I'd think I'd rather be safe than sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Edit: link
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/nvidia-geforce-titan-x-pascal-review,7.html


Well yeah, you'd be near 450W. So, a 650W PSU wouldn't be *too* much overkill.

Are you saying though that changing the power target automatically increases the power consumption even if you haven't overclocked it?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Well yeah, you'd be near 450W. So, a 650W PSU wouldn't be *too* much overkill.
> 
> Are you saying though that changing the power target automatically increases the power consumption even if you haven't overclocked it?


Yeah, this is just generally how GPU boost works. I think GPU Boost 2.0 started this, but 3.0 essentially pushes it further towards it's available power envelope if you give it the room to.

As always thank you for your help! I guess the question remains....P2 vs G2? Any reason to pick one over the other?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Yeah, this is just generally how GPU boost works. I think GPU Boost 2.0 started this, but 3.0 essentially pushes it further towards it's available power envelope if you give it the room to.
> 
> As always thank you for your help! I guess the question remains....P2 vs G2? Any reason to pick one over the other?


You're welcome!

I think you'd get slightly better efficiency with the P2. That's pretty much it I think.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You're welcome!
> 
> I think you'd get slightly better efficiency with the P2. That's pretty much it I think.


Awesome! I figured such was the case. JonnyGuru reviews show both pretty much providing outstanding results, but I always love to ask end-users







.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Awesome! I figured such was the case. JonnyGuru reviews show both pretty much providing outstanding results, but I always love to ask end-users
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'm only able to go by what I've seen being reported by those who know, and it sounds to me like since they're both based on the Super Flower Leadex that they're pretty much the same except for efficiency.


----------



## Mega Man

Which generally isn't worth buying into higher brackets. Also have to stress that tdp is NOT total power draw


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Which generally isn't worth buying into higher brackets. Also have to stress that tdp is NOT total power draw


I know this







. I just used it as a base reference, and calculated the extra. I took a look at my UPS yesterday with the GPU at full tilt and CPU at around 30% in GTA V and I was pulling around 550w. However, this is including my X34, amp and DAC (approximately 54w, 30w, and 12w respectively). So it sounds like 550w may work after all. I'll try and do a GPU + CPU test at full tilt to see what kind of power I'm pulling from the wall. I'm sure the UPS number isn't 100% accurate, however.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I know this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I just used it as a base reference, and calculated the extra. I took a look at my UPS yesterday with the GPU at full tilt and CPU at around 30% in GTA V and I was pulling around 550w. However, this is including my X34, amp and DAC (approximately 54w, 30w, and 12w respectively). So it sounds like 550w may work after all. I'll try and do a GPU + CPU test at full tilt to see what kind of power I'm pulling from the wall. I'm sure the UPS number isn't 100% accurate, however.


Ha, I told you a 550W PSU would be more than enough.  hehe

Anyway, multiply the reading you get by .90 to see how much power your computer is pulling out of the PSU. That's the power consumption you need to know about and worry about. So, subtracting 54W, 30W and 12W, the PSU is pulling 454W out of the wall according to the UPS. Multiply that by .90 and we have 408W. That means that your PSU only had to deliver about 408W (give or take a few watts) to the computer during that power draw. The 550W G2 is designed to be able to deliver 550W continuously if it's ever needed, so delivering 408W is nothing.

Now personally, I hate how quickly my room gets hot and uncomfortable while gaming in the summer, even with the air conditioning for the house set to 72°F! So, I think that I would rather have a bigger PSU so that my computer is that much less of a space heater. Every little bit helps! Right?


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Ha, I told you a 550W PSU would be more than enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> 
> Anyway, multiply the reading you get by .90 to see how much power your computer is pulling out of the PSU. That's the power consumption you need to know about and worry about. So, subtracting 54W, 30W and 12W, the PSU is pulling 454W out of the wall according to the UPS. Multiply that by .90 and we have 408W. That means that your PSU only had to deliver about 408W (give or take a few watts) to the computer during that power draw. The 550W G2 is designed to be able to deliver 550W continuously if it's ever needed, so delivering 408W is nothing.
> 
> Now personally, I hate how quickly my room gets hot and uncomfortable while gaming in the summer, even with the air conditioning for the house set to 72°F! So, I think that I would rather have a bigger PSU so that my computer is that much less of a space heater. Every little bit helps! Right?


Haha true. I bought my X1250 in hopes that I would eventually SLI a pair of 780s, which unlocked and modded pulled easily 300+ each. I never got to do that, and now the best card I can get maxes out at around 300w







.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Haha true. I bought my X1250 in hopes that I would eventually SLI a pair of 780s, which unlocked and modded pulled easily 300+ each. I never got to do that, and now the best card I can get maxes out at around 300w
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, that pretty much explains everyone I've ever met who's like, "I might do this in the future and so I'll need a huge PSU". I always want to say, "You'll never do that, but ok whatever you want."


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, that pretty much explains everyone I've ever met who's like, "I might do this in the future and so I'll need a huge PSU". I always want to say, "You'll never do that, but ok whatever you want."


In my defense, I never got to because my 780 died twice







. So EVGA apparently was having none of that and sent me a GTX 970 to replace it. Turns out it was a bit better than the 780 in the end







.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> In my defense, I never got to because my 780 died twice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So EVGA apparently was having none of that and sent me a GTX 970 to replace it. Turns out it was a bit better than the 780 in the end
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wow.


----------



## Darrath

Just got my G2! Can add me too!











Please excuse the messy wiring and green tape... And dust... It will be cleaned up tomorrow!


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> I've got a 550 G2 in my second build (the GFs build) and I really enjoy it. However, I am going ITX as well (my main build is going to be transplanted into a ITX build with the exception of the Samsung Evo 840) and I'm thinking with the Titan and my power target raised, a 650 is more appropriate. I thought I remembered seeing that the fan is much noisier on one of the 650 units (G2 or P2). Am I correct in remembering this? It seems the only difference is platinum vs gold, but both seem to be stellar choices. Any particular one you guys recommend over the other?


650P2's fan noise is definitely not audiable. Both according to JohnnyGuru review and my own usage expereince(Eco Mode off)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oubadah*
> 
> I have a Leadex Gold 750, and the best thing about it is the quality of the modular sockets and plus. They fit just right, not excessively tight like Seasonic's death-grip grabage, and not too loose either. Can anyone who has experience with both tell me how the plugs/sockets on the Supernova G2 branded PSUs compare? They look different. Are they very difficult to insert and remove (both at the PSU end and component end)? I can no longer buy the Leadex branded ones in my country unfortunately.


Not hard to insert at all(650P2), haven't had any need to remove them but I didn't see any mention of difficulties in JohnnyGuru reviews.


----------



## pez

I don't feel like my Seasonic unit was any harder or easier to insert the modular cables than the 550 G2 I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> 650P2's fan noise is definitely not audiable. Both according to JohnnyGuru review and my own usage expereince(Eco Mode off)
> Not hard to insert at all(650P2), haven't had any need to remove them but I didn't see any mention of difficulties in JohnnyGuru reviews.


Yeah, I perused the reviews and didn't see anything either. I remembered reading something about 'A' EVGA unit, but I wasn't sure and just wanted to do a double-check. I appreciate your input; thank you







.


----------



## Mega Man

i agree i dont know what he means by death grip, i have 2 leadexs and like 7 seasonics ( or seasonic off brands )


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## xTesla1856

I find it funny how only OEM cables are super stiff and hard to plug in and out. Every since I got Cablemod cables, unplugging and plugging stuff back in has been a breeze.


----------



## dVeLoPe

which is better AX850 or 1300 G2


----------



## shilka

The G2 but why are you asking about the 1300 watt?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> I find it funny how only OEM cables are super stiff and hard to plug in and out. Every since I got Cablemod cables, unplugging and plugging stuff back in has been a breeze.


The EVGA kit works just as well but those standard cables were stiff and a pain. Also hated the red GPU cables from the older models.

I was planning on going with the cablemods but EVGA had the white I wanted in stock and tossed me a bunch of cable combs for free and I lost my PSU AC cable so I had to call to order a replacement anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The G2 but why are you asking about the 1300 watt?


The 850 watt G2 is miles better than the 850 ax even. Corsair units are junk for the price.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> which is better AX850 or 1300 G2


Yep 1300G2 all day long.


----------



## dVeLoPe

because i own both and realize 1300w is overkill for a 5820k and a titanXP or 1080

since everyone raves about the g2 so much and its still sealed itd be easier to sell


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> because i own both and realize 1300w is overkill for a 5820k and a titanXP or 1080
> 
> since everyone raves about the g2 so much and its still sealed itd be easier to sell


The 1300W G2 is very high-end but it doesn't have ECO mode and some people complain that its fan is too loud even while their computer is just idling, and the AX850 has been known to have coil whine problems and it's based on the old SeaSonic X-Series. It's still a good PSU, but it's just an average high-end PSU now. Nothing special really.

You could power this with a good quality-made 550W PSU unless you're overclocking the piss out of both the CPU and video card.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> because i own both and realize 1300w is overkill for a 5820k and a titanXP or 1080
> 
> since everyone raves about the g2 so much and its still sealed itd be easier to sell


If you sli one day and overclock GPU/CPU I would personally keep the G2. I'm actually using a 1600 for 6950x and 2 titan xp but when the psu gets old I know I'll still have plenty of power. Right now it's way overkill.


----------



## Malkorath

Add me to the list?

http://i.imgur.com/KL4h6Eh.jpg

Things have been cleaned up since taking that pic. Saving up money for hopefully a full rig rebuild too, with the PSU being the first step.


----------



## jeanjean15

Hi .

I want to buy a EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2 but i want to be sure that this PSU ( with ECO mode ON ) is really quiet ( nearly silent ) for a load between 500 and 800 watts .

If somebody owning this PSU can confirm , please ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> Hi .
> 
> I want to buy a EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2 but i want to be sure that this PSU ( with ECO mode ON ) is really quiet ( nearly silent ) for a load between 500 and 800 watts .
> 
> If somebody owning this PSU can confirm , please ?


You dont need a 1200 watt PSu unless you are going to have 3 or 4 video cards
Its way overkill for systems with one or two video cards.


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need a 1200 watt PSu unless you are going to have 3 or 4 video cards
> Its way overkill for systems with one or two video cards.


I own 2 video cards and a heavily overclocked 5960X so this is nearly the same as 3 video cards .

Indeed , the load is between 500 and 800 watts which is 60 % of the full load of a 1200 watts psu .

60% of load is a good value because you will get the better efficiency of your PSU .

On the over hand , do you know if the supernova p2 1200 is a silent PSU for my system or not at all ?

Perhaps , i should consider the Seasonic snow silent edition 1050 W instead ?


----------



## shilka

You just need to be aware that Seasonic units are multi rail so if you get a Seasonic unit and you have shut downs you are probably overloading one of the rails
The EVGA SuperNova G2/P2/T2 series as well as the Corsair RMi/and RMx series are single rail series

But back to your question no 1000 watt PSU or bigger is going to be super quiet so please lower your expectations.


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You just need to be aware that Seasonic units are multi rail so if you get a Seasonic unit and you have shut downs you are probably overloading one of the rails
> The EVGA SuperNova G2/P2/T2 series as well as the Corsair RMi/and RMx series are single rail series
> 
> But back to your question no 1000 watt PSU or bigger is going to be super quiet so please lower your expectations.


Yes , i know that my expectations are very high but i thought that nearly silent PSU should be easier to find with the increase of efficiency .

Nevertheless , thanks for your help .


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> Hi .
> 
> I want to buy a EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2 but i want to be sure that this PSU ( with ECO mode ON ) is really quiet ( nearly silent ) for a load between 500 and 800 watts .
> 
> If somebody owning this PSU can confirm , please ?


I have one on one of my rigs, it's dead silent with echo mode on since I can't hear the coil wine and echo mode on the fan is off iirc.


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I have one on one of my rigs, it's dead silent with echo mode on since I can't hear the coil wine and echo mode on the fan is off iirc.


Good news . Thanks .

I will report my own experience here as soon as i will have bought and tried it.


----------



## JackCY

Check reviews and how fast the fans spin when PSU is not in a hotbox, you want at ambient. Most of these PSUs don't leave fanless until about 50% load.
You could go with Corsair RM1000x which I think is the biggest they make. Or any G2/P2 850-1200W depending on what load you want to put on the PSU. I guess cost is irrelevant to you so which ever you like really.
The bigger PSU you get the worse your idle efficiency will be.

The Corsair ones should be more quiet than EVGA/SF. I would probably go with RM 1000x should be the cheapest of the bunch.

Personally I would not bother with Seasonic due to bad previous experiences and overall seeing the company more as industrial oriented and not as enthusiast PSUs oriented. Good PSUs but often there is at least one thing I don't like about them, not quiet, not decently priced, weird rails, sometimes dated design.

In terms of noise I would rate them this way, and same order for me to consider buying them:


Corsair RMx/i
EVGA G2/P2
Seasonic Snow WannaBe Silent

Jonny and TPU have reviews of them.


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Check reviews and how fast the fans spin when PSU is not in a hotbox, you want at ambient. Most of these PSUs don't leave fanless until about 50% load.
> You could go with Corsair RM1000x which I think is the biggest they make. Or any G2/P2 850-1200W depending on what load you want to put on the PSU. I guess cost is irrelevant to you so which ever you like really.
> The bigger PSU you get the worse your idle efficiency will be.
> 
> The Corsair ones should be more quiet than EVGA/SF. I would probably go with RM 1000x should be the cheapest of the bunch.
> 
> Personally I would not bother with Seasonic due to bad previous experiences and overall seeing the company more as industrial oriented and not as enthusiast PSUs oriented. Good PSUs but often there is at least one thing I don't like about them, not quiet, not decently priced, weird rails, sometimes dated design.
> 
> In terms of noise I would rate them this way:
> 
> 
> Corsair RMx/i
> EVGA G2/P2
> Seasonic Snow WannaBe Silent


I owned a corsair AX1200 but had horrible buzzing noise . I did a RMA but sadly the second one did have the same noise .

So this is difficult for me to buy again a corsair PSU even if this is not the same model.

Anyway, I cross my fingers for the EVGA P2 1200 and hope that it will be satisfying .

Thanks a lot for your help .


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> I owned a corsair AX1200 but had horrible buzzing noise . I did a RMA but sadly the second one did have the same noise .
> 
> So this is difficult for me to buy again a corsair PSU .
> 
> Anyway, I cross my fingers for the EVGA P2 1200 and hope that it will be satisfying .
> 
> Thanks a lot for your help .


The RMx and RMi are nothing like the previous Corsair PSUs, I wouldn't touch the old RM with a 10ft pole but these new ones are completely new design and really good and quiet.
I've had coil whine with 2 new Seasonics G series, exchanged for EVGA G2 and no problem at all.

I'm not a fan of the Corsair AX or HX. But I think the new HXi is also on the RMi platform only Platinum? I don't remember anymore. There is no need for them just get the RMx lol


----------



## jeanjean15

If the EVGA is too noisy , I will send it back and buy the corsair RM1000x .


----------



## shilka

Note that the 1000 watt and above G2´s does NOT have a hybrid fan mode on them
If you want an EVGA PSU at 1000 watt or more and you want hybrid fan mode as well your options are the P2 and the T2

Not sure if the 1000 watt GQ has hybrid fan mode or not?

Edit: seems like it does have hybrid fan mode after all


I have not seen a review of the 1000 watt GQ yet so i have no idea how good it is.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Note that the 1000 watt and above G2´s does NOT have a hybrid fan mode on them
> If you want an EVGA PSU at 1000 watt or more and you want hybrid fan mode as well your options are the P2 and the T2
> 
> Not sure if the 1000 watt GQ has hybrid fan mode or not?
> 
> Edit: seems like it does have hybrid fan mode after all
> 
> 
> I have not seen a review of the 1000 watt GQ yet so i have no idea how good it is.


The GS is Seasonic right?
GQ Fortron/FSP? Dunno if there was a review yet. Yeah they are there, 650-850W reviews.


----------



## shilka

The GS series are Seasonic yes and the GQ are FSP made but the 650/750 does not use the same platform as the 850/1000 watt does
The 650/750 watt GQ are in fact much worse then the 850/1000

Same story with the GS 550/650 they use a worse platform then the GS 850/1050 does
Both the of the GQ 650/750 and the GS 550/650 are somewhat mediocre

As for which is which here you go
EVGA SuperNova lineup explained


----------



## JackCY

Yeah I see that in reviews now. If the price is right why not though but often the RM550x is cheaper than the G2 and I would take it over Seasonic and FSP PSU today.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> I own 2 video cards and a heavily overclocked 5960X so this is nearly the same as 3 video cards .
> 
> Indeed , the load is between 500 and 800 watts which is 60 % of the full load of a 1200 watts psu .
> 
> 60% of load is a good value because you will get the better efficiency of your PSU .
> 
> On the over hand , do you know if the supernova p2 1200 is a silent PSU for my system or not at all ?
> 
> Perhaps , i should consider the Seasonic snow silent edition 1050 W instead ?


In order to maximize your efficiency, you want your *average* power consumption to land at 40-60% of the PSU's advertised capacity, not your maximum power consumption. How many hours per day does your maximum power consumption occur? If it's just a few short hours every day, then you'd maximize your efficiency by having the maximum power consumption land at about 85-90% of the PSU's advertised capacity. I'm serious. This way, your average efficiency is absolutely maximized.

*However*, today's high-end PSUs have a very consistent efficiency throughout their entire output capacity range. So, you don't have to worry about this anymore, especially when you are considering buying something as high-end as a PSU from the G2/P2/T2 series (Super Flower Leadex).

Now of course, if you want to guarantee that the PSU will be dead silent, then yes you will want the power consumption to be lower. However, I just wanted to explain the whole "50% load" thing. Here are two old articles that are still relevant to today in terms of how this needs to be understood:

http://www.overclock.net/t/711542/on-efficiency

http://www.overclock.net/t/872013/50-load-myth

In a nutshell, you want the average power consumption to land at the PSU's sweet spot. I spoke to Phaedrus2129 directly about this and he taught me that for a typical gaming rig (where the maximum power consumption only happens for a few hours each day), you'd want that maximum power consumption to land at about 85-90% of the PSU's output capacity in order to maximize the overall average efficiency.

Of course, again, when it comes to making sure the PSU's fan is always quiet, you definitely don't want to be giving your PSU any reason to speed up its fan.


----------



## JackCY

With 1200 P2 he will run fanless all day long








But wouldn't with 850 G2 when taxing load to max.


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> With 1200 P2 he will run fanless all day long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But wouldn't with 850 G2 when taxing load to max.


Yes.

This is the main raison why i have choosen the 1200 P2.

More chance to run fanless at mid load .


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> This is the main raison why i have choosen the 1200 P2.
> 
> More chance to run fanless at mid load .


You wouldn't hear the fan anyway, but hey, whatever brings you peace of mind I guess.


----------



## KickAssCop

I have the 1300 watts G2 and do not hear the fan at all. ECO mode is also a nice to have considering my CPU and Video Cards are overclocked like mad.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickAssCop*
> 
> I have the 1300 watts G2 and do not hear the fan at all. ECO mode is also a nice to have considering my CPU and Video Cards are overclocked like mad.


The 1300W G2 isn't supposed to have ECO Mode.


----------



## KickAssCop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The 1300W G2 isn't supposed to have ECO Mode.


I meant it is a nice to have. I don't need it.


----------



## Silent Scone

The 1600WG2 is loud as sin, recently downsized to the 1200P2 and ecomode is a god send coupled with a quiet loop.


----------



## Kimir

I can't say that my 1300G2 is particularly quiet, it's the most noisy part, with the D5 pump, of my Panda rig. It's even more noisy since recently the fan started doing a not pleasant busing noise at a certain speed.
But well, if the fan dies on me, the 10y warranty is there. I just don't want to take the PSU out of the rig and RMA it only for a darn fan.


----------



## JackCY

Block the fan with a ziptie lol, that is if you're only using low power as most people do anyway.


----------



## Kimir

I'm not sure that's a good idea, as the annoying noise is happening when the fan spin up faster when the 780Ti KPE kicks in.








But if opening the PSU wasn't voiding warranty, I would have already swapped the fan for a Be-quiet of my liking, for example.


----------



## jeanjean15

Hi .

I just installed my new 1200 P2 and made some tests at 600 watts load during one day long.

It consumes 25 watts less that my actual PSU ( gold rated ) .

About the noise , it is nearly silent with the ECO mode ON .









So , i will end by saying that this PSU is matching exactly my need .









Thanks again everybody for your help !


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> Hi .
> 
> I just installed my new 1200 P2 and made some tests at 600 watts load during one day long.
> 
> It consumes 25 watts less that my actual PSU ( gold rated ) .
> 
> About the noise , it is nearly silent with the ECO mode ON .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So , i will end by saying that this PSU is matching exactly my need .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again everybody for your help !


Good deal, another happy customer! What did you use to test how much power you are using?


----------



## xTesla1856

Got the most insane deal by accident. My retailer had the 1000 P2 listed at 14 bucks today so I went ahead and ordered it.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Got the most insane deal by accident. My retailer had the 1000 P2 listed at 14 bucks today so I went ahead and ordered it.


That is awesome!


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Good deal, another happy customer! What did you use to test how much power you are using?


I am mining crypto currencies 24/24 hours with 2 gtx 1080 and a 5960x .


----------



## chronicfx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> I am mining crypto currencies 24/24 hours with 2 gtx 1080 and a 5960x .


Nice, are you making profit on any coins with the setup?


----------



## jeanjean15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Nice, are you making profit on any coins with the setup?


Yes for now .

i am mining LBC with the 1080 and XMR with 5960X .

LBC : https://poloniex.com/exchange#btc_lbc


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanjean15*
> 
> Yes for now .
> 
> i am mining LBC with the 1080 and XMR with 5960X .
> 
> LBC : https://poloniex.com/exchange#btc_lbc


have you ever minded bit coin? I'm wondering if that's hard to setup and if it's worth it.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey guys I had someone I live with...."consolidate" my cables that I had in specific places so I knew what was what (they were all AC cables for PSU's, monitors etc.) into one box....and while I should have bagged and labeled them hindsight is 20/20.

In short: Anyone that has an EVGA SuperNOVA *P2* 750 Watt PSU can you please look at the AC power cable and tell me what it says on the cable so I can identify the correct one. I even have a cable that is insanely thick for any PSU or Monitor and have no clue where it came from and what it is for....









Including the thicker cable we are talking about 6 AC cables in total(the rest are from PSU's that have long died but I tend to hoard everything). The other 5 all are about the same gauge but all say different stuff on the actual cable in regard to gauge and something else which looks like an id code.

Help would be much appreciated as I don't want to fire up this rig with the wrong cable.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey guys I had someone I live with...."consolidate" my cables that I had in specific places so I knew what was what (they were all AC cables for PSU's, monitors etc.) into one box....and while I should have bagged and labeled them hindsight is 20/20.
> 
> In short: Anyone that has an EVGA SuperNOVA *P2* 750 Watt PSU can you please look at the AC power cable and tell me what it says on the cable so I can identify the correct one. I even have a cable that is insanely thick for any PSU or Monitor and have no clue where it came from and what it is for....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Including the thicker cable we are talking about 6 AC cables in total(the rest are from PSU's that have long died but I tend to hoard everything). The other 5 all are about the same gauge but all say different stuff on the actual cable in regard to gauge and something else which looks like an id code.
> 
> Help would be much appreciated as I don't want to fire up this rig with the wrong cable.


Any standard C13/C14 10A cable will work. So, you're actually all set. Just grab one and you're good to go.


----------



## Mega Man

Ie 14ga and up


----------



## TwoCables

Every C13/C14 PSU cable I've seen has a white tag on it that says "10A".

Anyway, this might help too (I forgot about it): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers


----------



## Thoth420

Thanks fellas









Waiting on my pure sine wave UPS and my sit stand desk to get here. I am looking for a stand for my H440 about a foot off the ground as well. Any recommendations? It is a heavy unit with the loop in it.


----------



## xTesla1856

Follow up to my deal of the century: Store clerk didn't even bat an eye as I handed him the 14 bucks







Also, EVGA seem to have changed the logo on the box a little.


----------



## TwoCables

I think shilka quit OCN a week ago. Either that, or he's just taking a break.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think shilka quit OCN a week ago. Either that, or he's just taking a break.


If that be the case for these type of threads at least in my book that makes you and MegaMan heir apparent.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> If that be the case for these type of threads at least in my book that makes you and MegaMan heir apparent.


I don't know if I want the job.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know if I want the job.


Regardless you are very helpful in regards to power issues. Saved my bacon time a few times...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think shilka quit OCN a week ago. Either that, or he's just taking a break.


I hope not. I hope he is ok....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> If that be the case for these type of threads at least in my book that makes you and MegaMan heir apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if I want the job.
Click to expand...

Agreed


----------



## wickedout

Here is my EVGA 1000W P2! Finally got the chance to install it into my rig. Very good PSU to say the least.


----------



## mastablades

Has EVGA gotten rid of those horrid red VGA cables and replaced them with black yet?


----------



## mastablades

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTesla1856*
> 
> Follow up to my deal of the century: Store clerk didn't even bat an eye as I handed him the 14 bucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, EVGA seem to have changed the logo on the box a little.


Is the one on top the most recent release? Does it come with black cables or those horrid red cables?


----------



## Mega Man

You really don't have to ask the same question twice.....


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I think shilka quit OCN a week ago. Either that, or he's just taking a break.


Huh? Did I miss something







?


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastablades*
> 
> Is the one on top the most recent release? Does it come with black cables or those horrid red cables?


The top is the more recent one with the updated logo. I don't know about cables, I'm selling it brand new sealed.


----------



## Thoth420

Hey all so I ordered this UPS unit (but from Amazon since I only have Prime at the moment): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102134

I linked the newegg because the specs and features are better displayed on there than on amazon. I have terrible luck and want to test this on crap HTPC setup first just to make sure it works when the power goes out. Question: What is the best way to do that? Should I trip the circuit breaker for the room it is in or the whole house? Or is there any other easier way to ensure the battery will kick in once the power is cut to the unit?

Sorry for the stupid question but I am just paranoid since I have had terrible luck with this build so far.

Also this unit is more than adequate for my system, monitor and Verizon Fios router and my speakers correct? I have nothing overclocked so the power draw from my system is fairly low. I have a sit/stand desk coming but that will just get plugged into the wall.


----------



## Mega Man

Really easy. Just pull the cord ( unplug it)

Don't ever be afraid to ask these questions. These are expensive and most don't use them


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Really easy. Just pull the cord ( unplug it)
> 
> Don't ever be afraid to ask these questions. These are expensive and most don't use them


Thanks! I need one my street is terrible with brownouts and blackouts.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Huh? Did I miss something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Yeah. It's a very long story.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Hey all so I ordered this UPS unit (but from Amazon since I only have Prime at the moment): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102134
> 
> I linked the newegg because the specs and features are better displayed on there than on amazon. I have terrible luck and want to test this on crap HTPC setup first just to make sure it works when the power goes out. Question: What is the best way to do that? Should I trip the circuit breaker for the room it is in or the whole house? Or is there any other easier way to ensure the battery will kick in once the power is cut to the unit?
> 
> Sorry for the stupid question but I am just paranoid since I have had terrible luck with this build so far.
> 
> Also this unit is more than adequate for my system, monitor and Verizon Fios router and my speakers correct? I have nothing overclocked so the power draw from my system is fairly low. I have a sit/stand desk coming but that will just get plugged into the wall.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Really easy. Just pull the cord ( unplug it)
> 
> Don't ever be afraid to ask these questions. These are expensive and most don't use them


Haha I was going to say this.

I have the same unit and it has saved my bacon a couple times already. It's successfully kicked on during some CS:GO comp matches and kept my PC running with some intermittent power. Did the same recently while playing some Overwatch comp. Unit has been rock solid for me. I actually have my headphone amp and DAC hooked up to it as well. I think it estimates my battery time at full load (somewhere around 600w for PC and other equipment) at about 30-45 minutes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah. It's a very long story.


Understood







.


----------



## Mega Man

It would not even keep my pc running ._.


----------



## pez

I have to say that is one benefit of PC stuff becoming more efficient







.


----------



## TwoCables

Testing a UPS is easy: just kill the power to that outlet. Think about it.

Or, plug the UPS into a power strip and just turn the power strip off.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It would not even keep my pc running ._.


What kind of system draw is pulling under load? I am guessing you are multi GPU and overclocked. I think my system draw is around 400 - 500 watts max under load if that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Testing a UPS is easy: just kill the power to that outlet. Think about it.
> 
> Or, plug the UPS into a power strip and just turn the power strip off.


Yeah I figured that would just work but want to double check. I am pretty dumb when it comes to power stuff the only thing I really know about these units is go for Active PFC compatible(pure sine wave not stepped) and to focus on the wattage on the unit and not the VA. Past that I am pretty clueless. The reason I want to ensure it works is because the only bad reviews these units get(or any UPS of this tier from other vendors that I can find) is people getting ones with old manufacture dates and the battery is long dead before it comes out of the box. The other issue was bad packaging and damaged units from shipping but that will be evident when it gets here be the case.

Thanks again guys!







I cannot wait to fire her up with new Mobo and maybe get a few hours to play some BF4 or Deus Ex tonight. School is keeping me from my toy far too much but priorities and stuff...


----------



## Mega Man

Your right. This one has 2 1kw psus in it.... one is out for rma


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastablades*
> 
> Has EVGA gotten rid of those horrid red VGA cables and replaced them with black yet?


I think so. But it's best to ask your retailer what version they have, either for them to check or then ask EVGA or dig out out what that version they sell has. Or just buy it and return it if you don't like it...
Cable colors have no effect on performance anyway.

I have 850 G2 and all cables are black and that's from what 2014? I think they've updated most if not all of the previously released models to have all black cables as well.


----------



## Kimir

Have you guys seen the new G2L, basically the Superflower one including led connectors.








Nice to see the 850 and 1000 T2 too.


----------



## VSG

G2L is shorter also, 165 mm for 750 and 850 W compared to 180 mm for 750/850 G2.


----------



## smicha

Guys,

I just need a confirmation: I already had SF 1600W Titanium and EVGA 1600W T2 and if I remember well both of these psus have have the same stock cables, right? I just want to swap these PSUs without changing cables. Could you confirm that their cables are the same?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I just need a confirmation: I already had SF 1600W Titanium and EVGA 1600W T2 and if I remember well both of these psus have have the same stock cables, right? I just want to swap these PSUs without changing cables. Could you confirm that their cables are the same?


I am not sure, EVGA G2/P2/T2 have a different connector pinout from what I recall. Perhaps @EVGA-JacobF can confirm.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am not sure, EVGA G2/P2/T2 have a different connector pinout from what I recall. Perhaps @EVGA-JacobF can confirm.


So maybe you'll help me please: I have a situation - I sent the machine with 7 gpus to USA. It is with SF 2000W Platinium. In EU the PSU works fine but in USA not. In the specs of the PSU it says:

Model SF-2000F14HP (230V only)
Input Voltage Full Ranage - 100V~240V

I was sure it will work under 110V in US but it does not. Can you confirm it only works under EU voltage? That is why I want to swap it with evga 1600P2 without changing cables.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> So maybe you'll help me please: I have a situation - I sent the machine with 7 gpus to USA. It is with SF 2000W Platinium. In EU the PSU works fine but in USA not. In the specs of the PSU it says:
> 
> Model SF-2000F14HP (230V only)
> Input Voltage Full Ranage - 100V~240V
> 
> I was sure it will work under 110V in US but it does not. Can you confirm it only works under EU voltage? That is why I want to swap it with evga 1600P2 without changing cables.


You will need a step down transformer to get it to work unfortunately. I don't think it has one internally if the operating voltage range is a fixed number. To be honest, you would be better off selling that whole unit and getting a US version with its own cables.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You will need a step down transformer to get it to work unfortunately. I don't think it has one internally if the operating voltage range is a fixed number. To be honest, you would be better off selling that whole unit and getting a US version with its own cables.


Do you mean this one?
http://www.voltageconverters.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=VC2000W

Pitty there is no 2000W for US voltage.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Do you mean this one?
> http://www.voltageconverters.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=VC2000W
> 
> Pitty there is no 2000W for US voltage.


Yes, something like it. Ideally you would want a transformer and line conditioner, but that gets expensive. I don't recommend spending $90-100 and then more potentially for cables when you can make up the difference by selling and buying PSUs instead.

US homes, especially older ones, can't handle 2000 W of power draw from an outlet. Even 1500-1600 W is barely capable from some places. With hardware going more power efficient, I doubt there's going to be a 2000 W USA unit ever.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, something like it. Ideally you would want a transformer and line conditioner, but that gets expensive. I don't recommend spending $90-100 and then more potentially for cables when you can make up the difference by selling and buying PSUs instead.
> 
> US homes, especially older ones, can't handle 2000 W of power draw from an outlet. Even 1500-1600 W is barely capable from some places. With hardware going more power efficient, I doubt there's going to be a 2000 W USA unit ever.


Thank you so much for your help. Much appreciated.


----------



## Mega Man

I could be wrong but

1 the reason it isn't supported is out breakers are not big enough. - according to the specs it may still work on 110v.

2 you can always use 2 legs for 220v (like your stove or dryer )should be close enough to work.

(Most psus are ok with 2 hot legs. Yours may not be. You will need to check


----------



## JackCY

It may be that the PSU doesn't work with 110V at all, you do not say how it doesn't work as if it supports 110V it should only run into issues once it starts pulling excessive power from the socket.
USA has weaker outlets overall and 2000W is over spec.


----------



## Mega Man

.


----------



## TwoCables

I think that might be just a little rude, Mega Man.


----------



## Mega Man

You are right. @JackCY I am sorry, I was 100% wrong in the attitude of my response


----------



## smicha

The 2000W does not work in USA - when pressing power button aquaero says - power down - and is only dimmed.

The technical specs are clearly misleading:

★Full Range Auto Voltage Detection Design 100V~240V (Active PFC)
Model SF-2000F14HP (230V only)
Input Voltage Full Ranage - 100V~240V

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/SuperFlower/SF-2000F14HP/

*The only compromise is that it has to run off 230 VAC mains since it would need much more than the 15 A 115 VAC mains can deliver.*

Superflower shall very explicilty say on their website - this will not work in USA under 110V, not putting "230V only" in brackets and delete "Input Voltage Full Ranage - 100V~240V"


----------



## Mega Man

You should be able to run it off of 220 however. It is close enough to 230 that it should not matter you would have to hire a electrician to run the line for you, unless you feel confident in your ability to run it safely


----------



## smicha

It is working on 220v but I assume you read that I am talking about 110v ?


----------



## Mega Man

FYI us residential has 220v


----------



## Recumbent

In the US this would need a licensed electrician to install a completely separate circuit wired to the socket, 15A dual pole breaker on that circuit and the special 220V socket and plug (aka dryer type). You can't plug into an existing dryer circuit as those are at 30-40A.

Also looking at the superflower website (overview tab of the PSU), images of the exterior packaging and images of the spec sticker on the unit, it clearly states that it's 200Vac~ 240Vac 15A 50Hz input only.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> In the US this would need a licensed electrician to install a completely separate circuit wired to the socket, 15A dual pole breaker on that circuit and the special 220V socket and plug (aka dryer type). You can't plug into an existing dryer circuit as those are at 30-40A.
> 
> Also looking at the superflower website (overview tab of the PSU), images of the exterior packaging and images of the spec sticker on the unit, it clearly states that it's 200Vac~ 240Vac 15A 50Hz input only.


Thank you. This is very helpful. We've just ordered EVGA 1600W P2 for a USA user. I assume this one will work in USA without any problems, right?

http://www.evga.com/Products/Specs/PSU.aspx?pn=CDD3ED66-9DD1-4C53-8A75-661B6F8A84C5


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> In the US this would need a licensed electrician to install a completely separate circuit wired to the socket, 15A dual pole breaker on that circuit and the special 220V socket and plug (aka dryer type). You can't plug into an existing dryer circuit as those are at 30-40A.
> 
> Also looking at the superflower website (overview tab of the PSU), images of the exterior packaging and images of the spec sticker on the unit, it clearly states that it's 200Vac~ 240Vac 15A 50Hz input only.


They must of updated it used to be on the stickers 100v-240v....

Also you DO NOT need a licensed electrician to write something on your own house. But again as I stated if you don't feel comfortable, don't do it.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They must of updated it used to be on the stickers 100v-240v....
> 
> Also you DO NOT need a licensed electrician to write something on your own house. But again as I stated if you don't feel comfortable, don't do it.


Thank you. So is the 1600 P2 a wise choice for USA?


----------



## Recumbent

Should be fine assuming they aren't plugging it into a 15A circuit with lots of other things on it (and it's drawing the full 1600W) - in the right circumstances a 500W could have problems if there are a lot of things on the circuit.

That PSU is designed for the US market though so will be fine in the vast majority of normal house wiring circumstances as it will run on a standard 110V circuit.


----------



## JackCY

Yes a PSU designed to work on electrical system of your country is a better choice unless you have or want to be upgrading your electric system to have a 220V option. Of course you need the capacity as well, as in big enough breakers.


----------



## Mega Man

Or a 20a circuit


----------



## Recumbent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They must of updated it used to be on the stickers 100v-240v....
> 
> Also you DO NOT need a licensed electrician to write something on your own house. But again as I stated if you don't feel comfortable, don't do it.


Depends on where you live. In many places it is illegal for electrical work to be done other than by a licensed electrician (let alone what your homeowners insurance / state/town permitting requires, and regardless the wiring must pass the relevant electrical code in use in your state/town/county). For example, while in MA it is legal to do the work yourself, many towns will NOT pass or inspect wiring installed by a non licensed electrician. You will then need to confirm that your household insurance policy won't be cancelled as a result - let alone if you try to sell the house with wiring that has not passed inspection. Your mileage and risk may vary.

With 220V circuits the chances (and impact) of screwing up are high enough that I'd have an electrician pull the circuit - at the very least have him wire the panel, you can always save on labour by pulling the wire yourself if you wish.


----------



## Mega Man

Also not true (may be in your town. I am not disputing that) . a town can not discriminate against the work if it is up to code. Unless there is a law, which is a possibility but most places DO NOT have it and most use nec . And there is no greater risk with 220 then 120 Fyi.

I am not promoting everyone to do it. Just stating you can if you own it

Home depot (and others) even have write ups on how to do it , if it was not ok in most states they wouldn't.

Also again i can not stress this enough. DON'T do it if you don't feel safe.

But trying to tell me it is illegal to work on your own primary residence and state it is illegal in most states. I would be amazed if you could name (and prove) 5.

Now this excludes hoa rules as you sign a contract stating w.e. the hoa wants, and also replacing your main panel which is far different from replacing or adding a circuit


----------



## Recumbent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Also not true (may be in your town. I am not disputing that) . a town can not discriminate against the work if it is up to code. Unless there is a law, which is a possibility but most places DO NOT have it and most use nec .


A town can, if allowed by state law, absolutely require more stringent requirements.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And there is no greater risk with 220 then 120 Fyi.


Except if you don't correctly wire the dual pole breaker and leave one of the hot legs live on the circuit








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am not promoting everyone to do it. Just stating you can if you own it
> 
> Home depot (and others) even have write ups on how to do it , if it was not ok in most states they wouldn't.
> 
> Also again i can not stress this enough. DON'T do it if you don't feel safe.


I don't disagree with you. I'm adding that there are other risks involved and to be aware of. If your location requires inspections and you don't do that then you may have issues selling without evidence that it is up to code (would you buy a house without any objective evidence of whether the electrical service isn't a hazard?). Your household insurance may also require it (and will also retroactively remove insurance if an electrical fire is determined to be due to your work - there is often a clause in the cancellation section allowing them to cancel the policy if you did something to increase the level of hazard on the property).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> But trying to tell me it is illegal to work on your own primary residence and state it is illegal in most states. I would be amazed if you could name (and prove) 5.


I didn't say most states. I said "many places" (and for what it's worth so does the National Electrical Contractors Association) as it varies by state, town, county etc.

In states with no state code (eg NY) it is up to the individual jurisdictions to determine what (if anything) they will require. Other states with a code explicitly allow municipalities to add their own requirements. Some towns allow the homeowner to do the work, but they must have a licensed electrician pull the permit and validate the work prior to inspection. Other states allow a free for all - Illinois for instance has no state code nor electrical contractor licensing requirement at all unless an individual town requires it - and towns decide what NEC requirements they want to follow). So you need to be aware of ALL of the rules in your location.

If you want to keep up with the NEC and local rules so that you can do all the work to code, fair play, the point here is to be aware of all of the risks involved - especially if you've never done it before.

Can I wire a circuit. Yes. Is it worth the time and other headaches (see above) for me to do it rather than having an electrician do it? No. Your situation may be different.


----------



## JackCY

Yeah don't fiddle with AC or even DC that is high enough to hurt you or kill you. Not everyone has the education, practice or certifications to do it and on OCN there are all kinds of people that do have these and like to mod and fiddle with everything.
If you fall into the no education nor practice working with such things category leave it to someone who does. You don't want to hurt yourself, someone else or burn the house down.


----------



## SteezyTN

Today I am just having the worst of luck with my build. My PC has been running smoothly most of today. I was fixing up all the cables because I just got done filling my loop, and just now when I tried turning it on, it would only turn on for a second and then immediately turn off. All fans would spin up at full speed for that one second, -land immediately turn off. What could this be? Oh, it's an EVGA 850 P2.

Edit* I put the PSU 24 pin clip (paper clip) thing on that came with the PSU, and it does the same thing. Turns on for less than a second, and immediately turns off. Did my PSU just die?


----------



## Kimir

If that is happening with the clip, yup the psu is good for RMA.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If that is happening with the clip, yup the psu is good for RMA.


so for that reason alone, I can definitely rule out my motherboard? That's what I'm worried about. Also, it was working fine when filling my loop. Do you think turning it off and on could have caused this to happen?

Edit* and it also lights up the "start" and "reset" buttons on my motherboard. But once I turn it on, the fans spin for less than a second, and immediately turn off.


----------



## Kimir

You can rule out the motherboard if you did the test by unplugging everything, leaving the PSU alone and trying to turn it up with the clip. If you didn't unplug everything, do it again w/o any peripherals plugged, it could be a short that trigger the safety otherwise.


----------



## SteezyTN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You can rule out the motherboard if you did the test by unplugging everything, leaving the PSU alone and trying to turn it up with the clip. If you didn't unplug everything, do it again w/o any peripherals plugged, it could be a short that trigger the safety otherwise.


Okay, so I unplugged all the cables except the 24 pin cable and turned it on with the plug. It appears that it isn't the power supply then. What should I try?

EDIT* I'm such a freakin idiot







I think I was powering to many fans on my 8 way sata fan controller, so it wasn't working. To make things seem even more real, my monitor wasn't plugged in so that's why I wasn't seeing any visual feedback. And my RGB lighting wasn't on, so that's why those didn't light up. So it appears that the power supply was perfectly fine hahaha.


----------



## Kimir

Try with the pump, cpu and 24pins only, plug only 1 DIMM and display, keyboard and mouse. Use the IGPU for the time being.


----------



## Mega Man

Was responding to old postNot nessisarially. You need to completely remove psu.

And check with 1 Cable hooked up ( besides 24 pin and paper clip/jumper ) and 1 fan or led or w.e. hooked up to that 1 cable. And if it works you need to attach one cable at a time and find what is tripping your psu


----------



## evoll88

How is evga with rma? I have a 1000w p2 in my gaming build and it started freezing for a second then shutting off so I swapped in the psu from my other tower and now my gaming pc has been fine but the tower I put the evga psu in is now shutting off. The psu is only about a year old and is in a pc with no overclocks so I am kinda surprised it is bad but I guess anything can happen with electronics.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evoll88*
> 
> How is evga with rma? I have a 1000w p2 in my gaming build and it started freezing for a second then shutting off so I swapped in the psu from my other tower and now my gaming pc has been fine but the tower I put the evga psu in is now shutting off. The psu is only about a year old and is in a pc with no overclocks so I am kinda surprised it is bad but I guess anything can happen with electronics.


Best way is to submit a ticket and let them know the troubleshooting steps you've done. Had to do it with a couple GPUs through them and their turnaround was impressive. The only PSU RMA I've dealt with is Seasonic, and while communication could be better, there's never been a hitch in doing it. Turnaround times were pretty much the same with the exception of EVGA covering shipping I believe (I could be hazy in my memory







).


----------



## evoll88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Best way is to submit a ticket and let them know the troubleshooting steps you've done. Had to do it with a couple GPUs through them and their turnaround was impressive. The only PSU RMA I've dealt with is Seasonic, and while communication could be better, there's never been a hitch in doing it. Turnaround times were pretty much the same with the exception of EVGA covering shipping I believe (I could be hazy in my memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Ok I will contact them and thanks for the info/reply.


----------



## Thoth420

EVGA RMA turn around in the states is about as fast as possible. Exception would be they are out of stock of your sku and your issue calls for a replacement. They even have expidited RMA afaik but that requires a CC number for deposit.


----------



## shilka

I knew it they just had to go with G3


There is only one G3 and that is this


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I knew it they just had to go with G3
> 
> 
> There is only one G3 and that is this


Hahahaha. I can't lie I thought of that when I saw G3 as well







.


----------



## saintruski

I have the 1600G2 and 1600T2 but I don't understand why they put the transistors in the cables...I was going to sleeve mine

Specially when their own sleeved cables don't have them...

Wonder how much they do for ripple suppression.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> I have the 1600G2 and 1600T2 but I don't understand why they put the transistors in the cables...I was going to sleeve mine
> 
> Specially when their own sleeved cables don't have them...
> 
> Wonder how much they do for ripple suppression.


Less then 30mv so if you dont care just remove them
CableMod cables dont have them either and i have been using their cables for a long time.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Less then 30mv so if you dont care just remove them
> CableMod cables dont have them either and i have been using their cables for a long time.


alright thanks

Quote:


> I knew it they just had to go with G3


wait, when was this announced...that looks like the GX


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> wait, when was this announced...that looks like the GX


Just some random site i found on google so it might be the GX
They might have changed the name

I just saw the EVGA G3 and went thats not a G3.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, I think it's the GX, not the G3. I'm not sure why "G3" is being used.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Just some random site i found on google so it might be the GX
> They might have changed the name
> 
> I just saw the EVGA G3 and went thats not a G3.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, I think it's the GX, not the G3. I'm not sure why "G3" is being used.


Going to hazard a guess that this is a SFF PSU and not an upgrade? Probably why it's not call the G3 to not confuse the naming scheme.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Going to hazard a guess that this is a SFF PSU and not an upgrade? Probably why it's not call the G3 to not confuse the naming scheme.


I really don't know. It looks like a standard-sized PSU to me. I mean, like sized similarly to a 550W or 650W PSU. Y'know? I can't really tell though.


----------



## MightEMatt

Anybody know at what load the 650P2 trips? I've got a 3960x with 980ti SLI on one right now and at stock clocks I've seen it peak at 770W from the wall during firestrike. As an extension to that question are the electronics in these durable enough to handle regular overloads or am I likely to pop my PSU at this rate?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightEMatt*
> 
> Anybody know at what load the 650P2 trips? I've got a 3960x with 980ti SLI on one right now and at stock clocks I've seen it peak at 770W from the wall during firestrike. As an extension to that question are the electronics in these durable enough to handle regular overloads or am I likely to pop my PSU at this rate?


Do you have anything else other then the PC on that outlet?
If you have monitor and speakers you need to move those as they dont count

And 770 watts from the wall is about 700 watts which is more then the P2 650 watt is rated for
If the 770 watt number is for the PC alone you need a bigger PSU.


----------



## MightEMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Do you have anything else other then the PC on that outlet?
> If you have monitor and speakers you need to move those as they dont count
> 
> And 770 watts from the wall is about 700 watts which is more then the P2 650 watt is rated for
> If the 770 watt number is for the PC alone you need a bigger PSU.


It briefly hit 800w with monitor so I just chopped off a few watts. Are the cables interchangeable from the 650 to say an 850P2?


----------



## shilka

Both the G2/P2/T2 uses the same cables
Just leave the old cables in the system take them out of the PSU switch out the PSU and plug them back in.


----------



## MightEMatt

Thanks bud.


----------



## Thoth420

I think my 750 watt P2 is crapping out already









Thankfully as mentioned above all I will have to do is swap the unit the cables can stay in place. I am about to just back to 1000 watt range even if it is overkill I never had a high wattage unit die or start acting odd.


----------



## JackCY

What's wrong with the PSU? How do you know it's crapping out?


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> What's wrong with the PSU? How do you know it's crapping out?


Kernel 41 reboot in 3D Mark with nothing overclocked whilst the system is hooked up to a battery backup that can handle my system at full load twice over. Is it possible it is a house power issue even through the backup? I tested RAM, Mobo, cleaned GPU drivers and installed the latest ones.

I can post the crash dmp when I get home later tonight....that stuff is gibberish to me.


----------



## JackCY

It's possible yeah, sadly like you did all you can do is remove, swap, test various components unless there is some obvious deviation coming from the PSU on some rails but I guess the PC or PSU would be dead before that happens to be possible to see using a voltmeter etc.


----------



## Thoth420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's possible yeah, sadly like you did all you can do is remove, swap, test various components unless there is some obvious deviation coming from the PSU on some rails but I guess the PC or PSU would be dead before that happens to be possible to see using a voltmeter etc.


I am going to try and drop it off to a friend who runs a Tri SLI Titan X build at his house for a week or so and let him test it for me and go from there. Clearly his power is clean


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thoth420*
> 
> Kernel 41 reboot in 3D Mark with nothing overclocked whilst the system is hooked up to a battery backup that can handle my system at full load twice over. Is it possible it is a house power issue even through the backup? I tested RAM, Mobo, cleaned GPU drivers and installed the latest ones.
> 
> I can post the crash dmp when I get home later tonight....that stuff is gibberish to me.


Wouldn't this point to a bad UPS or a low UPS battery?


----------



## JackCY

I think it's pretty easy to rule out UPS, takes what 30sec to reconnect and check XD I would be surprised if he didn't try that yet.


----------



## Thoth420

UPS is brand new tested good weeks ago. I just want to know if a house power issue could make it through a UPS and cause a system restart. Also the ups didnt report any errors when this occurred which makes me suspect the PSU.


----------



## Zonified

A bunch of supernova G3's appeared as per-ordable on ncix for a day. The entries got deleted.

-EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3 80 Plus Gold 550W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
220-G3-0550-Y1 $139.99 CAD cached link

-EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3 80 Plus Gold 650W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
220-G3-0650-Y1 $149.99 CAD cached link

-EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3 80 Plus Gold 750W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
220-G3-0750-X1 $159.99 CAD cached link

-EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G3 80 Plus Gold 850W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
220-G3-0850-X1 $189.99 CAD cached link

-EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3 80 Plus Gold 1000W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
220-G3-1000-X1 $214.99 CAD cached link

All had "This Product is available in 15 to 20 Days"

You can get the price in USD by multiplying with 0.75 .


----------



## mattliston

I just wanted to share a recent experience with EVGA support.

Recently sent in a secondhand used PSU (i am second owner) in regards to a random failure.

I did not receive a determination of what was wrong with the unit (850watt Supernova G2), but instead of a new PSU sent back to me....

I received a brand enw plastic wrapped box and all, basically as if I bought it off the shelf.

FANTASTIC.

Cannot be happier with EVGA. They have received my interest in supporting them during future product purchases.

I dont have a picture of my unit to join this club, and honestly, Im not requesting it. Just wanted to share my only experience with EVGA power supplies thus far.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zonified*
> 
> A bunch of supernova G3's appeared as per-ordable on ncix for a day. The entries got deleted.
> 
> -EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3 80 Plus Gold 550W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
> 220-G3-0550-Y1 $139.99 CAD cached link
> 
> -EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3 80 Plus Gold 650W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
> 220-G3-0650-Y1 $149.99 CAD cached link
> 
> -EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3 80 Plus Gold 750W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
> 220-G3-0750-X1 $159.99 CAD cached link
> 
> -EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G3 80 Plus Gold 850W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
> 220-G3-0850-X1 $189.99 CAD cached link
> 
> -EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3 80 Plus Gold 1000W Full Modular Eco Mode w/ HDB Fan Compact Size Power Supply
> 220-G3-1000-X1 $214.99 CAD cached link
> 
> All had "This Product is available in 15 to 20 Days"
> 
> You can get the price in USD by multiplying with 0.75 .


I wonder what the improvements could be other than being smaller.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> I wonder what the improvements could be other than being smaller.


from the specs they've already changed from dual ball bearing to FDB fans.


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## ckoons1

is it normal for psu fan to make a buzzing noise?


----------



## Mega Man

Maybe, it really depends on the noise itself, and can even sound like it is from the psu when it is really from something else. A video may help but no promises


----------



## ckoons1

it's the evga supernova p2 1200 psu.

i think it's the fan because when i turn the fan off the sound goes away.

think i will just rma it


----------



## Hequaqua

Hequaqua--EVGA Supernova G2 750w





I've had this for about a week....and love it!

My old unit was a Rosewill 750-M. I believe it was a SF unit too. I think I read that on JonnyGuru. I thought it was going bad, but after ordering this, I checked all my connections and it tested fine. Rosewill offered to refund me the purchase price, then another unit. I kept it, and this one too. I will put my old one in my son's rig. It has a 7-yr warranty on it(about 2 yrs old now).


----------



## ckoons1

HATS OFF TO EVGA FOR SENDING ME A BRAND NEW SUPERNOVA 1200P2 PSU AS PART OF MY RMA.

THANK YOU


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckoons1*
> 
> HATS OFF TO EVGA FOR SENDING ME A BRAND NEW SUPERNOVA 1200P2 PSU AS PART OF MY RMA.
> 
> THANK YOU


Ya they good guys!


----------



## hucklebuck

I am looking to get a new psu and I have heard that i shouldn't get an EVGA. What is bad about their psu's. This is the one I'm looking at. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1044626-REG/evga_220_g2_0750_xr_supernova_750g2_750_watt_power.html


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I am looking to get a new psu and I have heard that i shouldn't get an EVGA. What is bad about their psu's. This is the one I'm looking at. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1044626-REG/evga_220_g2_0750_xr_supernova_750g2_750_watt_power.html


It's just like with any manufacturer: it depends on which PSU you're looking at. The G2/P2/T2 lineup is *excellent*. It's very high-end and there's absolutely nothing bad.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I am looking to get a new psu and I have heard that i shouldn't get an EVGA. What is bad about their psu's. This is the one I'm looking at. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1044626-REG/evga_220_g2_0750_xr_supernova_750g2_750_watt_power.html


I don't know where you heard that from but all of Evga's PSU's made by Super flower are excellent in pretty much every regard (SuperFlower ones: B2, G2, G3, P2, T2 models). The ones made by Seasonic are also pretty good (GS & PS models). Their low end (430W) and older psu's (NEX series) are not the best though.

The 750 G2 will serve you well. But if it ever does happen to fail it has a great 10 year warranty.


----------



## JackCY

850 G2 running fanless over 2 years. While sure I'm not a fan of the oversized design SF used they did improve it and cramped the PSUs into regular size up to 1000W now.
As long as you get one made by SF or SS you're fine. Of course with the cheapest models they are made by gorram knows who, FSP? And there the low price means low quality, not that they will not work, just won't offer the same quality design as the more expensive models.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I am looking to get a new psu and I have heard that i shouldn't get an EVGA. What is bad about their psu's. This is the one I'm looking at. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1044626-REG/evga_220_g2_0750_xr_supernova_750g2_750_watt_power.html


I only use EVGA PSUs unless I have no choice like on my servers, zero complaints from me on many models in the G2/P2/T2 area, heck even the G1 that I had was great.


----------



## cscheat

add me to the list

Superflower Leadex 1000w Gold here


----------



## shilka

http://www.overclock.net/t/1492511/evga-supernova-g2-p2-t2-and-super-flower-leadex-owners-club#post_22336287


----------



## evoll88

Couple of weeks ago I had to rma my evga 1000w psu and was expecting a used psu but they just sent me a new one, Impressed by their rma service so far.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evoll88*
> 
> Couple of weeks ago I had to rma my evga 1000w psu and was expecting a used psu but they just sent me a new one, Impressed by their rma service so far.


That sure would be nice. I had my 1600W G2 explode last night. It sounded like a gun shot. Crazy. I thought it was my UPS so I reset everything and turned it back on. Yellow sparks went shotting out the back. Scared me pretty good. Got everything hooked up to a spare PSU and it doesn't seem like anything other than PSU was damaged.

Submitted RMA form and had approval to send back within 8 hours.


----------



## hucklebuck

That doesn't sound good. Is this common with these psu's?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> That doesn't sound good. Is this common with these psu's?


No its very rare and the number of times i have heard it happen can be counted on one hand.


----------



## TwoCables

This is the first I've heard of it.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Agreed. I have four of these PSUs. One blew up. I am more nervous running my Lepa PSU as a backup than putting in another superflower.


----------



## evoll88

I have been reading up (evga forums,psu section) on the evga 1000w psu's and it seems like a lot of people are having trouble with them dying. A few people even had their rma or the new one they got back do the same thing so I think I am just going to stay with my back up psu for now. I prob. will sell this brand new psu and go with another corsair unit.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> That doesn't sound good. Is this common with these psu's?


I wouldn't say it's common at all. I have many EVGA PSUs ranging from 750 to 1600 G/T/P types in different wattage, I have a few rigs and servers. Never had one blow up.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evoll88*
> 
> I have been reading up (evga forums,psu section) on the evga 1000w psu's and it seems like a lot of people are having trouble with them dying. A few people even had their rma or the new one they got back do the same thing so I think I am just going to stay with my back up psu for now. I prob. will sell this brand new psu and go with another corsair unit.


Thats the 1050 watts GS that have issues and not the 1000 watt G2
The GS are Seasonic made and the G2 are Super Flower made

They have nothing in common whatsoever apart from the SuperNova name, so any problem with GS have nothing to do with the G2 or vice versa
Selling your G2 and buying a Corsair unit is a waste of time and money

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Thats the 1050 watts GS that have issues and not the 1000 watt G2
> The GS are Seasonic made and the G2 are Super Flower made
> 
> They have nothing in common whatsoever apart from the SuperNova name, so any problem with GS have nothing to do with the G2 or vice versa
> Selling your G2 and buying a Corsair unit is a waste of time and money
> 
> http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm


This.


----------



## TwoCables

Thank you, shilka. I had no idea, but that's not saying much either.


----------



## Mega Man

Please, for the love of god. Stop buying psus because of brand.

Brands mean nothing. Psu/psu family mean everything, and it is still possible to get a bad egg


----------



## Invaderscs

Add me to the owners list for the 650 P2. Had this for over a year now and have had 0 issues with it.


----------



## KoolDrew

Looking to replace the PSU in my current rig (specs are in my sig) and I've been leaning towards getting a G2. Should I get the 550/650/750w given my current specs?

No plans on upgrading just yet, but when I do I'll likely stick with a single GPU, but maybe a custom water loop.


----------



## Hequaqua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> Looking to replace the PSU in my current rig (specs are in my sig) and I've been leaning towards getting a G2. Should I get the 550/650/750w given my current specs?
> 
> No plans on upgrading just yet, but when I do I'll likely stick with a single GPU, but maybe a custom water loop.


I just bought the 750w G2 love it....









Newegg had the 850 G2 pretty cheap the other day...not sure if it's still on sale/rebate or what....


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> Looking to replace the PSU in my current rig (specs are in my sig) and I've been leaning towards getting a G2. Should I get the 550/650/750w given my current specs?
> 
> No plans on upgrading just yet, but when I do I'll likely stick with a single GPU, but maybe a custom water loop.


What stores can you order from?


----------



## KoolDrew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What stores can you order from?


I'm in the US. Newegg and Amazon would be my first choices.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hequaqua*
> 
> I just bought the 750w G2 love it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg had the 850 G2 pretty cheap the other day...not sure if it's still on sale/rebate or what....


Current prices on Newegg.

550w - $69.99 after $10.00 rebate card
650w - $79.99 after $20.00 rebate card
750w - $89.99 after $10.00 rebate card
850w - $99.99 after $20.00 rebate card

I think I might go with the 750 given it's the same price now, pre MIR, as the 650.


----------



## TwoCables

Wow. Nice prices. I quit. hehehe Go for it!


----------



## Makki

650 P2 waiting for next build so count me in


----------



## Hequaqua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoolDrew*
> 
> I'm in the US. Newegg and Amazon would be my first choices.
> Current prices on Newegg.
> 
> 550w - $69.99 after $10.00 rebate card
> 650w - $79.99 after $20.00 rebate card
> 750w - $89.99 after $10.00 rebate card
> 850w - $99.99 after $20.00 rebate card
> 
> I think I might go with the 750 given it's the same price now, pre MIR, as the 650.


Good choice really. I'm loving mine so far.


----------



## Cyb3r

ok i have a question for anyone having a Evga Supernova G2 1000w unit : can anyone do me a favor and take a photo off the ac power cable part number? i just moved and forgot to label the cable for my G2 unit and i want to sort it out asap

The part number is on the header jack that goes into the wall

edit 2 : i have a usa ac cable

Ty in advance


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyb3r*
> 
> ok i have a question for anyone having a Evga Supernova G2 1000w unit : can anyone do me a favor and take a photo off the ac power cable part number? i just moved and forgot to label the cable for my G2 unit and i want to sort it out asap
> 
> The part number is on the header jack that goes into the wall
> 
> edit 2 : i have a usa ac cable
> 
> Ty in advance


Any standard power cable for a PSU will work. They're all the same, except for very high-capacity PSUs (like a 1500W PSU). Some of those have a slightly different cable.

Just look for a C13/C14 power cable: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers

Many things use this cable, including some PC monitors, some TVs, some musical instrument amplifiers, etc.


----------



## Mega Man

The higher wattage one is more square and is c19/c20


----------



## Cyb3r

twocables that's the problem I mixed a LCD and the power cable I know they're both fine just being picky on keeping the setup like it was pre move


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyb3r*
> 
> twocables that's the problem I mixed a LCD and the power cable I know they're both fine just being picky on keeping the setup like it was pre move


The C13/C14 power cable is always a C13/C14 power cable, regardless of where it came from or what it came with. If you have something that needs a C13/C14 cable and you have one, then you can use it. It doesn't matter if that cable came with a monitor, a PSU, a solid-state musical instrument amplifier, or whatever else in this world uses this cable. The only differences between these cables is the color (to match the color of the device, of course) and the length.


----------



## Mega Man

Also gauge can vary, however it SHOULDN'T.

That does not mean it won't

It SHOULD be a big enough wire to handle the current (issuing whatever material it is for the metal)


----------



## Dagamus NM

Got my RMA in last week. Never said what was wrong, just sent me a new one. Funny that they insist on only sending in the unit without cables and then just send a brand new one. Well, this is the third set of 1600W G2 cables in my pile. Hope to add a few more as I get custom sleeved cables for the ones I haven't done yet.


----------



## illli

Is there much of a difference between the G3, the G2L and the P2? The 650/750 versions are all very close in price right now.

The only few differences I have found are:

G2L and P2 are 15mm longer, with slightly larger fans (135mm and 140mm vs 130 in the G3)
The G3 has Hydraulic Dynamic Bearing fan, the G2L and P2 have Double Ball Bearing
G3 and G2L have gold certification, the P2 platinum.
G3 and P2 have Over Temperature Protection, the G2L does not
All have 10yr warranties

Are any of these differences really noticeable? They seem nearly identical to me, but I don't know too much about this stuff


----------



## AlphaC

G3 is shorter in length so it's more suitable for small compact builds


----------



## illli

yes, I already know that. In fact I even listed that in the differences I already know about...
size isn't an issue, I'm just trying to figure out which one is the best of the 3. Maybe one has better build quality?
Is there anything not externally noticeable that would separate one from the rest, and/or be a significant 'plus' ?


----------



## TwoCables

They are really the same in terms of quality. They're all the Super Flower Leadex platform, so the only difference is the efficiency and the LEDs on the G3L, etc.


----------



## shilka

The G3 are an improved and smaller version of the G2
Looking at reviews voltage regulation is now less then 1% which is an improvement and ripple is less then 9mv for all rails which is a smaller but still an improvement

If the G3 are in the same price range as the others its a better option.

Edit: same story with the Leadex II its an improvement over the old Leadex so if the Leadex II is in the same price range its the better option.
Forget about the 80 plus rating that is efficiency which has nothing to do with voltage regulation and ripple suppression.


----------



## ondoy

my EVGA psu collection...









wow, the G3 are really small and compact, the cable are not as hard as the P2 and G2 it's more flexible.


----------



## Arizonian

Nice lil collection onoy.









I'm slowly switching out from corsair PSU's, just picked up a P2 1000 tonight.

After 7 years I'm starting to hear fan noise on Corsair HX1050 in 3rd rig. Going to swap my G2 1300 to it and replace my main with the P2 1000.

It seems I can keep my current G2 cables in place, which are compatible with P2, so will be an easy switch.

I still think these supernova's can't be beat for the price per performance. Love the 10 year warranty from EVGA who has stellar customer support. Kinda knew when I bought it would comfortably make its way into another rig.

Looking forward to slight upgrade myself and with an ECO fan.


----------



## jopy

so did the low hold-up time for some of the psu (g2/leadex gold) fried anyone system yet?
or the issue is just overblown?

currently still using the leadex gold 650, do i needs to be cautious and replace the unit?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> so did the low hold-up time for some of the psu (g2/leadex gold) fried anyone system yet?
> or the issue is just overblown?
> 
> currently still using the leadex gold 650, do i needs to be cautious and replace the unit?


Never heard of hold up time causing a PSU to blow up
Where did you hear that ridiculous ghost horror story from?


----------



## smicha

Two if the SF 1600W Titanium in action


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Never heard of hold up time causing a PSU to blow up
> Where did you hear that ridiculous ghost horror story from?


Think you misunderstood me :/
Let me rephrase.

What i meant is, did the low hold up time causes incorrect voltage during event of power outage and damaged anyone system.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Think you misunderstood me :/
> Let me rephrase.
> 
> What i meant is, did the low hold up time causes incorrect voltage during event of power outage and damaged anyone system.


Never heard of that happen before


----------



## xTesla1856

Very happy with my 1000 P2. For the past 1.5 years it's been going without a single issue. The fan is also barely ever on. Best PSU I ever had.


----------



## dVeLoPe

anyone have black and red cable set for the 1300w g2 their too expensive directly at evga


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dVeLoPe*
> 
> anyone have black and red cable set for the 1300w g2 their too expensive directly at evga


CableMod sells smaller packs of cables for the G2/P2/T2/G3 series
If you dont need a full 1300 watt set thats a cheaper option.


----------



## Battou62

Ordered a EVGA 650 G3 this weekend. Looking forward to using it


----------



## shilka

Need to update the OP but i keep forgetting to do it

Edit: there done now that i remembered and had time


----------



## LBear

Going to be ordering a 850 G3. Ive read that the G3 are smaller than G2 and hope the cords are long enough for a HAF X case.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> Going to be ordering a 850 G3. Ive read that the G3 are smaller than G2 and hope the cords are long enough for a HAF X case.


Why 850 watts you dont need that much for the system under your sig
And unless the G3 has longer cables it wont reach in a HAF X or at least the 8 pin EPS wont.


----------



## JackCY

Same cables.
But but you get 2 EPS cables







Not that it helps for big cases lol.
I think it's pretty much a prerequisite for big cases to have or get custom cables where needed or they should come with an extension.
I don't know of a consumer PSU that would come with a super long EPS. Corsair, SeaSonic comes with 650mm, EVGA 700mm.
EVGA comes with one of the longest cables overall. SF some come with shorter some with longer but I don't see anything beyond 740mm and that won't save you.


----------



## shilka

I had a HAF X before my Luxe and when i bought my G2 the EPS cable was not long enough, had the EPS cable been 5 cm longer it would have been long enough
Ended up getting a Bitfenix Alchemy EPS extension which i still use.


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why 850 watts you dont need that much for the system under your sig
> And unless the G3 has longer cables it wont reach in a HAF X or at least the 8 pin EPS wont.


Was looking at the EVGA 750 G3 but for 13$ more might was well get the 850. In case i go SLI ill have the extra wattage. Just wondering about the cables because i did order and will have it tomorrow.


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, it's not like these PSUs are extremely expensive. They should be, but they're not. So, it's ok to have a bit of unnecessary overkill if you're ok with paying a little more. It's not going to hurt anything except you'll have like $10-20 less. Oh no, whatever will you do?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, it's not like these PSUs are extremely expensive. They should be, but they're not. So, it's ok to have a bit of unnecessary overkill if you're ok with paying a little more. It's not going to hurt anything except you'll have like $10-20 less. Oh no, whatever will you do?


Yeah, that's how I ended up with my 1300 G2. At the time it was on sale for only $30 more than the 850 G2 so I figured what the heck, I'll never have to worry about having enough power anymore.


----------



## TheNetrum

After using Corsair exclusively for years i went with EVGA with my current build.
And i dont think the fan has ever started on the PSU.









How reliable are the EVGA G2's?
I have had nothing but bad experiences with corsair.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, it's not like these PSUs are extremely expensive. They should be, but they're not. So, it's ok to have a bit of unnecessary overkill if you're ok with paying a little more. It's not going to hurt anything except you'll have like $10-20 less. Oh no, whatever will you do?


They shouldn't be, the parts don't cost much and PSUs are one of the most prehistoric electronics designs.
$20 = 40 beers, I dunno man, I dunno, I wouldn't









At least now there are the 550 and 650W available, which don't cost overly much. Still due to exchange rates it all went up considerably.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNetrum*
> 
> After using Corsair exclusively for years i went with EVGA with my current build.
> And i dont think the fan has ever started on the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How reliable are the EVGA G2's?
> I have had nothing but bad experiences with corsair.


Leadex is fine as long as they don't mess it up on the production line.
Dunno what Corsair you've had but the only worth buying were RMi/RMx and similar based on that platform and they are equal even better in some ways than the EVGA/SF Leadex. The rest... yeah I wouldn't touch those Corsair PSUs even with a long pole, either trash or overpriced.


----------



## Arizonian

One of the easiest swaps I've ever done from G2 1300 to P2 1000 in my rig, fully modular is the only way to go.

Moving that G2 1300 to 3rd rig this weekend. Just finished registering this supernova for 10 years.









I think corsair AX are solid PSU's, just over priced especially when compared to the competition. My HX1050 had a decent life which was about 5 months over a 7 year warranty, go figure. HX1050's sell for about $189 when compared to a P2 you can pick up that's exceptionally better.

I even put a cheap but effective EVGA B1 500 in my dads i5 4690S internet rig I built with no GPU, for $49.99. He was really on a budget too.

Only corsair left is an AX850 in my 2nd rig which I expect to last 5 years more before it too eventually gets replaced and I'll be all EVGA for power supplies. Competition is nice and the PSU market shows what that can do for pricing and performance for the consumer.

Hi Shilka, Can you please add me to the P2 list pretty please. Thank much buddy.


----------



## LostParticle

Just out of curiosity, how many of you are running your EVGA SuperNova G2s in ECO mode, so with the fan (almost) never spinning?

I have the 750W G2 and I always use it with the fan, on.


----------



## shilka

Been thinking about moving my 750 watt G2 to my second rig and gettting a 550 watt G3 now that i no longer run SLI
My second rig has a XFX rebranded Seasonic M12II in it and many of the cables are missing

Only problem with getting a G3 is the cables can no longer reach as the PSU is so much shorter
Not 100% sure the G2 cables work on the G3 either so maybe a P2 650 watt would be a better option?

Might just keep the G2 after all since i am so chronic short on cash this year
The IRS has decided that i made too much money from working 2 years ago! and now they want their money back and where am i going to find $785?

And you have been added Arizonian
I dont use the eco fan mode either LostParticle so i have the fan always on as well.


----------



## Battou62

I just noticed the G3 650 is not on the recommended power supply list. Is the G3 650 a good psu?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how many of you are running your EVGA SuperNova G2s in ECO mode, so with the fan (almost) never spinning?
> 
> I have the 750W G2 and I always use it with the fan, on.


850 G2, never use the fan ON, always in ECO mode always fan OFF. Since 2014 or something. To me the ball bearing fans are noticeable noise wise when spinning because those bearings make noise when airflow yet doesn't a downside of the bearing type.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Battou62*
> 
> I just noticed the G3 650 is not on the recommended power supply list. Is the G3 650 a good psu?










Don't want it give it to me







Yes it's a good PSU and the OP list is often outdated, sometimes by years especially in the recommended PSUs thread etc. I think Shilka or who owns the threads now updated some recently though.

Shilka: why would you have a trouble with cables? The EPS is still 700mm, ATX 600mm, sure PCIe do vary between 2/3 models a little.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Battou62*
> 
> I just noticed the G3 650 is not on the recommended power supply list. Is the G3 650 a good psu?


The list has not been updated in years so forget about the list its outdated
And its an improved version of the G2 so yes its good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 850 G2, never use the fan ON, always in ECO mode always fan OFF. Since 2014 or something. To me the ball bearing fans are noticeable noise wise when spinning because those bearings make noise when airflow yet doesn't a downside of the bearing type.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't want it give it to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it's a good PSU and the OP list is often outdated, sometimes by years especially in the recommended PSUs thread etc. I think Shilka or who owns the threads now updated some recently though.
> 
> Shilka: why would you have a trouble with cables? The EPS is still 700mm, ATX 600mm, sure PCIe do vary between 2/3 models a little.


I have not updated any of my threads in a long time so i am no better
Too much work and to little time.

Edit: forgot to answer your question about the cables and the problem is not EPS or PCI-E cables its my SATA cables which can just barely reach
In fact if i bump my case the SATA cable for my Blu-Ray drive will fall out thats how tight it is, same problem with the other SATA cables so a shorter PSU means i have a huge problem.


----------



## LostParticle

Thanks guys, for the replies regarding the fan mode. I just switched off (ECO mode: ON), the fan of my 750 G2. It does make a difference in the noise imprint of my setup, even though under no circumstance has it ever been disturbing while spinning. This period I am running an open-air system, and the PSU, as well as the rest of the system, is placed on a stand next to my desk, on a higher level.

I'm gonna use it a couple of days in ECO mode and observe if it will feel hotter than usual.

One last, simple, question:

- When it comes to cleaning these units, are you guys doing anything else besides the regular sucking and blowing with a good vacuum cleaner? Is there any way to take out the fan and clean it, without voiding the warranty?

Thank you.


----------



## Arizonian

I use a datavac

http://www.overclock.net/t/1094261/metro-vacuum-datavac-club

Blows fine dust right out of it.


----------



## evoll88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I use a datavac
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1094261/metro-vacuum-datavac-club
> 
> Blows fine dust right out of it.


Same with me, bought mine off amazon a year ago and it comes in handy for pcs and i use it for auto,home etc.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arizonian*
> 
> I use a datavac
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1094261/metro-vacuum-datavac-club
> 
> Blows fine dust right out of it.


Thanks, but I use my vacuum cleaner for this, a Nilfisk which also blows. I was actually wondering about fan removal, and cleaning, but there's no way without voiding the warranty. Thanks, anyway


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks guys, for the replies regarding the fan mode. I just switched off (ECO mode: ON), the fan of my 750 G3. It does make a difference in the noise imprint of my setup, even though under no circumstance has it ever been disturbing while spinning. This period I am running an open-air system, and the PSU, as well as the rest of the system, is placed on a stand next to my desk, on a higher level.
> 
> I'm gonna use it a couple of days in ECO mode and observe if it will feel hotter than usual.
> 
> One last, simple, question:
> 
> - When it comes to cleaning these units, are you guys doing anything else besides the regular sucking and blowing with a good vacuum cleaner? Is there any way to take out the fan and clean it, without voiding the warranty?
> 
> Thank you.


G3s have HDB fan. G2s had ball bearing ones. Probably won't hear the G3 fan. I have no problem with any of the other fans I have that do not have a ball bearing.
Most of these PSUs come with 10y warranty and ECO mode, so just use it, it should be made well enough not to cook itself before 10 years.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Most of these PSUs come with 10y warranty and ECO mode, so just use it, it should be made well enough not to cook itself before 10 years.


I personally ONLY purchase PSU's with this amount of warranty period being offered. Anything less, isn't worth considering anymore.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> I personally ONLY purchase PSU's with this amount of warranty period being offered. Anything less, isn't worth considering anymore.


But there are plenty of very high-end PSUs that have a 5-year warranty. You're limiting yourself and possibly missing out on better deals.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> But there are plenty of very high-end PSUs that have a 5-year warranty. You're limiting yourself and possibly missing out on better deals.


When it comes to power supplies looking for deals isn't an issue with me, I prefer to purchase something that is solid with (now) a 10 year warranty.

Means that the company is confident of it's product and isn't afraid to provide that level of support for that specified time span. If of course you're buying for the Company then YES, far cheaper deals are available that please the in house accountants.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> When it comes to power supplies looking for deals isn't an issue with me, I prefer to purchase something that is solid with (now) a 10 year warranty.
> 
> Means that the company is confident of it's product and isn't afraid to provide that level of support for that specified time span. If of course you're buying for the Company then YES, far cheaper deals are available that please the in house accountants.


Oh, well if you don't mind sometimes paying too much then that's ok.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> G3s have HDB fan. G2s had ball bearing ones. Probably won't hear the G3 fan. I have no problem with any of the other fans I have that do not have a ball bearing.
> Most of these PSUs come with 10y warranty and ECO mode, so just use it, it should be made well enough not to cook itself before 10 years.


Sorry for the confusion, man, it is the G2 I own not the G3, I made a typo, already corrected it in my initial post you have quoted. Also the G2 is shown in my sig_rig. Anyway, even in the open air rig I'm running this period the G2 with its fan running is not audible at all, unless I will approach my ear right above it, and then yes, I can hear the fan spinning, of course.

Anyway, this weekend if I will find the time I will switch to the Corsair shown in my sig_rig, this is what I do, I switch between them every six months, or so.

Thanks anyway


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Been thinking about moving my 750 watt G2 to my second rig and gettting a 550 watt G3 now that i no longer run SLI
> My second rig has a XFX rebranded Seasonic M12II in it and many of the cables are missing
> 
> Only problem with getting a G3 is the cables can no longer reach as the PSU is so much shorter
> Not 100% sure the G2 cables work on the G3 either so maybe a P2 650 watt would be a better option?
> 
> Might just keep the G2 after all since i am so chronic short on cash this year
> The IRS has decided that i made too much money from working 2 years ago! and now they want their money back and where am i going to find $785?
> 
> And you have been added Arizonian
> I dont use the eco fan mode either LostParticle so i have the fan always on as well.


Sorry to hear, sucks when the government wants to steal your life

( to get money you have to give your time, therefore money=time.

As time=your life.
The government uses taxes to steal your money, therefore as money = time. the government steals your life.... )


----------



## D13mass

Guys, I have PS OCZ ZS Series 750W and use this for 4 years and now I started to hear some noise from PS during load, I made a decision to replace OCZ to EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2.
Is it really silent under load? I mean EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 . I have 6700K + 980 ti (all are OC) + couple of HDD`s, SSD and 13 fans


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, I have PS OCZ ZS Series 750W and use this for 4 years and now I started to hear some noise from PS during load, I made a decision to replace OCZ to EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2.
> Is it really silent under load? I mean EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 . I have 6700K + 980 ti (all are OC) + couple of HDD`s, SSD and 13 fans


You dont need an 850 watt for that system its way overkill and the 550 watt could power it
Unless you plan on adding a second GTX 980 Ti you dont need that much wattage.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need an 850 watt for that system its way overkill and the 550 watt could power it
> Unless you plan on adding a second GTX 980 Ti you dont need that much wattage.


I`m thinking about sli from 1080ti (if it released), but anyway 850W it`s reserve for system.

For example: your system works with 550W PS fine, but 550W PS is working for 100% and components in PS will be damaged earlier than 850W PS which is working for 60%.

Pluses: 850W PS will work for 60% - quieter and colder than 550W.


----------



## Astreon

How's your PDU noise, guys?

I honestly never heard my EVGA G2 650W working, no matter how hard I pushed it. Except coil whine, I guess, I literally had to push my ear next to the PDU to hear it (very faintly), I can't even hear it at dead silent night under normal circumstances (so I just assume it's not there







)


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Astreon*
> 
> How's your PDU noise, guys?
> 
> I honestly never heard my EVGA G2 650W working, no matter how hard I pushed it. Except coil whine, I guess, I literally had to push my ear next to the PDU to hear it (very faintly), I can't even hear it at dead silent night under normal circumstances (so I just assume it's not there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Mine is absolutely silent. I use ECO-Mode all the time, I don't think I've ever heard it. My system pulls about 450Watts under gaming load, so it's right around that efficiency sweetspot, too. I love the 1000 P2


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, I have PS OCZ ZS Series 750W and use this for 4 years and now I started to hear some noise from PS during load, I made a decision to replace OCZ to EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2.
> Is it really silent under load? I mean EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 . I have 6700K + 980 ti (all are OC) + couple of HDD`s, SSD and 13 fans


See reviews there are at least 2 that show the fan/temp/power curve. Mine never spins up in ECO with single GPU up to 250W.

Why would you buy G2 I don't know, aren't the G3s better and G2s being replaced by them in shops anyway? Costs the same here G2 and G3. I would say the G3 is better and definitely smaller, check reviews.

Power is a personal preference, even 550W is fine but it may not run fanless anymore under full load.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> I`m thinking about sli from 1080ti (if it released), but anyway 850W it`s reserve for system.
> 
> For example: your system works with 550W PS fine, but 550W PS is working for 100% and components in PS will be damaged earlier than 850W PS which is working for 60%.
> 
> Pluses: 850W PS will work for 60% - quieter and colder than 550W.


You have nothing to worry about with high-end PSUs. What you're describing is only a risk if you're using generic-quality PSUs.

So, you could get a high-end 650-750W PSU and be fine. With PSU prices the way they are though, there's no real big harm in getting a high-end 850W PSU. A few years ago, it was stupid to get overkill because you had to pay a *LOT* more. Today, it's like, "Huh, that's a damn good price. Ok, done deal. Purchased."


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need an 850 watt for that system its way overkill and the 550 watt could power it
> Unless you plan on adding a second GTX 980 Ti you dont need that much wattage.
> 
> 
> 
> I`m thinking about sli from 1080ti (if it released), but anyway 850W it`s reserve for system.
> 
> *For example: your system works with 550W PS fine, but 550W PS is working for 100% and components in PS will be damaged earlier than 850W PS which is working for 60%.*
> 
> Pluses: 850W PS will work for 60% - quieter and colder than 550W.
Click to expand...

your example is COMPLETELY false. when using a QUALITY psu. it is the main reason to use a quality psu
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> I`m thinking about sli from 1080ti (if it released), but anyway 850W it`s reserve for system.
> 
> For example: your system works with 550W PS fine, but 550W PS is working for 100% and components in PS will be damaged earlier than 850W PS which is working for 60%.
> 
> Pluses: 850W PS will work for 60% - quieter and colder than 550W.
> 
> 
> 
> *You have nothing to worry about with high-end PSUs. What you're describing is only a risk if you're using generic-quality PSUs.*
> 
> So, you could get a high-end 650-750W PSU and be fine. With PSU prices the way they are though, there's no real big harm in getting a high-end 850W PSU. *A few years ago, it was stupid to get overkill because you had to pay a LOT more. Today, it's like, "Huh, that's a damn good price. Ok, done deal. Purchased."*
Click to expand...

true on both


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You have nothing to worry about with high-end PSUs. What you're describing is only a risk if you're using generic-quality PSUs.
> 
> So, you could get a high-end 650-750W PSU and be fine. With PSU prices the way they are though, there's no real big harm in getting a high-end 850W PSU. A few years ago, it was stupid to get overkill because you had to pay a *LOT* more. Today, it's like, "Huh, that's a damn good price. Ok, done deal. Purchased."


This exactly what I thought when buy it, no big difference between 750w and 850 - 7$, so I bought 850w. Like I said before maybe I will put 2 video cards.


----------



## austinmrs

Hey!

Im planning in buy a EVGA g3.

I dont know if i should buy the 650w or 750w version... I saw the 550/650w box is different than the other ones (750/850/1000w versions)... Why the 750 box is blue?

My system is on my signature... 6600k overclocked to 4.6Ghz, led stripe, 1 sdd, aio cooler, 270w hawk...


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Hey!
> 
> Im planning in buy a EVGA g3.
> 
> I dont know if i should buy the 650w or 750w version... I saw the 550/650w box is different than the other ones (750/850/1000w versions)... Why the 750 box is blue?
> 
> My system is on my signature... 6600k overclocked to 4.6Ghz, led stripe, 1 sdd, aio cooler, 270w hawk...


Even a 650 watts is overkill unless you plan on having 3 or more cards?
The system that you have uses about 200 watts as it is and add another card and you wont add more then 100 watts.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Even a 650 watts is way overkill unless you plan on having 3 or more cards
> The system that you have uses about 200watts as it is and add another card and you wont add more then 100 watts


So 550w is enough??

The 650 will be more silent tough... Since it will only use 50%


----------



## shilka

A 550 watts is more then enough and you could even add another 270 without needing a bigger PSU
650 watts is where you should stop not start.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A 550 watts is more then enough and you could even add another 270 without needing a bigger PSU
> 650 watts is where you should stop not start.


Yeah, just ordered a G3 650w one


----------



## Dnic41

Went with the G2 650 and no complaints so far. Also got the BitFenix white PSU cables to go with it.
Please add me to the list.


----------



## ondoy

what exactly are the caps on the cable for ? their sleeved cable sold separately doesn't have them...


----------



## Mega Man

it assists in power delivery quality. but not much


----------



## TwoCables

Ripple suppression.


----------



## ondoy

would it affect much ? planning on buying their sleeve cables.


----------



## TwoCables

I'm personally not sure.


----------



## Mega Man

No it does minor stuff


----------



## Vienoz

Hello boys and girls!
So, I suppose this is my first post here, after literally reading these forums for years without an account!

Anyhow, I suppose we can get down to business; I am about to take on my first ever individual cable sleeving job, after doing so much research for the last few months my head is almost spinning.
So, I had an EVGA 850 G2, which was replaced on warranty due to coil whine. Now the replacement unit had a busted ball bearing on the fan. After a lot of back and forth, I have somehow endt up with EVGA sending me a EVGA 850 G2L, which sort of screwed over some of my plans somewhat in regards to cable sleeving.

So the G2L has the MB connector on the PSU, and the rest are "Universal" plugs, so you can plug anything in, anywhere.

Now, does someone have the pinout for these universal plugs? I'm sorry if this is the wrong thread to ask this, but I thought I may as well try. I've been searching around all night, and still can't seem to find anything about it, nor anyone who has done any cable sleeving with this PSU.

Would be greatly appreciated if someone could help, either through PM, or simpy replying here!


----------



## Mega Man

I think I do, but I am at work. I say think, as I have the leadex (superflower the oem) version of the psu, I don't know that they changed of, however I would recommend spending $20 at a auto parts store and buy a multi meter. Even a cheap one.


----------



## Vienoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I think I do, but I am at work. I say think, as I have the leadex (superflower the oem) version of the psu, I don't know that they changed of, however I would recommend spending $20 at a auto parts store and buy a multi meter. Even a cheap one.


Aaaah, that would be awesome man! Yeah no worries, I already have a multi meter. I work with computers and small electronics, hence how I eventually found the courage to take this job on, but I'll be honest and admit I haven't done much modding around power supplies before.
Still waiting for the MDPC-X sleeving to arrive though!

Would be great if you could get back to me on that pinout. It's really odd, the connectors on the PSU side are all identical, regardless of what you connect them too. Makes for an easier job if you have the pinouts only on one though, I suppose.


----------



## Mega Man

The universal plug (the 9 pin clear )only has 1 pin out on mine.

Most are ground or led iirc2 or 3 12v 1 3.3 and 1 5 v


----------



## Vienoz

Yeah that's all fine and dandy, it's more which pin is what







Also, those clear connectors, doesn't seem very easy to get the molex tool fitted in there, like it's ridiculously tight in there... On the other side it's fine (like the 6 and 8 pin PCI-e plugs), and on my other cables I have around here which I've practiced on, it's super easy.


----------



## Mega Man

I never had an issue removing them, again I can get you the pin out til I am at home


----------



## Vienoz

Okay, so I managed to get around removing the molex pins from the PSU side as well, and I've received all of my sleeving. Now just missing the pinout for the PSU


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry I have been busy I'll work on editing it in here tonight


----------



## Vienoz

No worries, I've got time. Also; have you done this on your power supply? Individually sleeved cables I mean? Just to ask how "easy" it is to do these wires.


----------



## YOEL44

Hello everyone in this forums, I'm new here and I have some doubts about a Super flower Leadex II gold 650W that I'm going to get in some days.

First of all, the lights in the modular connectors light up when there's a cable connected, is there a way of keeping them on without the modular cable in?

Do I have to take something into account when connecting the modular cables, apart from the explained into the manual?

I'm so sorry if this it's been asked before, but there are a bunch of post at this time and I can't read them all.
Thanks in advance!!


----------



## 4lek

Talking about 1600 vertion,may i ask if is there any noticeable difference betwheen the Platinum and the Titanium one?

Outside of specific psu bench tetsts i mean..

Price is quite similar [like 70 bucks difference] but get me a P2 is lot faster here where i live.


----------



## shilka

You dont need a 1600 watt PSU the 1200 watt is more then enough.
And no the T2 gives you about 2% better efficiency so unless you really like that there is no reason to get a T2 over a P2.


----------



## 4lek

Ye well, 2% is almost irrilevant.

So,basically,do you suggest me P2?

And btw, what if we put Ax1500i in the equation?

I'm not an expert in psus for sure, but should the fact that 1500i is multi rail while sipernova is single be actually in the balance considering they are 1600w?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Ye well, 2% is almost irrilevant.
> 
> So,basically,do you suggest me P2?
> 
> And btw, what if we put Ax1500i in the equation?
> 
> I'm not an expert in psus for sure, but should the fact that 1500i is multi rail while sipernova is single be actually in the balance considering they are 1600w?


What are you going to be powering?


----------



## 4lek

Atm [email protected],8,2xTitan Black,16 gigas of corsair dominator plat 2133, 3 ssds 240, 1 hd and a xonar essence stx 2 soundcard.

I have like 16 fans with a controlloer, 2 pumps and a waterchiller [not always on] too.

Anyway i'm planning to upgrade in one year ro so.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> Atm [email protected],8,2xTitan Black,16 gigas of corsair dominator plat 2133, 3 ssds 240, 1 hd and a xonar essence stx 2 soundcard.
> 
> I have like 16 fans with a controlloer, 2 pumps and a waterchiller [not always on] too.
> 
> Anyway i'm planning to upgrade in one year ro so.


Upgrade what?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Upgrade what?


New motherboard CPU and RAM
He made another thread asking if he should upgrade his motherboard CPU and RAM and i told him no wait for Skylake-E / LGA 2066.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> New motherboard CPU and RAM
> He made another thread asking if he should upgrade his motherboard CPU and RAM and i told him no wait for Skylake-E / LGA 2066.


Ok, so now I see why you're telling him he doesn't need such an extremely overkill PSU - unless he plans on overclocking the living hell out of those video cards until they scream out for mercy.


----------



## 4lek

I'm aware that i'm not gonna need such power now nor in in the near future, but considering Psu isn't a piece i use to upgrade so often maybe one day i will.
This and 1500 doesn't really cost that much here.. it's like 80~90 bucks more. To be honest i don't find any reason to buy another 1200.

I just have to pick one and i can't


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4lek*
> 
> I'm aware that i'm not gonna need such power now nor in in the near future, but considering Psu isn't a piece i use to upgrade so often maybe one day i will.
> This and 1500 doesn't really cost that much here.. it's like 80~90 bucks more. To be honest i don't find any reason to buy another 1200.
> 
> I just have to pick one and i can't


I wish I had that kind of money to throw around. If you are wealthy and this isn't a problem, then just get the extreme overkill. However, I think you will find yourself in a position in the future wondering why you ever believed you would ever need this much power because each new generation of video cards and CPUs require less and less power.


----------



## xTesla1856

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I wish I had that kind of money to throw around. If you are wealthy and this isn't a problem, then just get the extreme overkill. However, I think you will find yourself in a position in the future wondering why you ever believed you would ever need this much power because each new generation of video cards and CPUs require less and less power.


True, but if one buys a 1500Watt PSU for a system that only uses 450-450 Watts during load, shouldn't the PSU last pretty much forever? That's how I feel about my 1000P2. My rig never goes over 450watts, the fan never turns on and the casing only gets lukewarm to the touch. That coupled with EVGA's 10 year warranty pretty much makes it a "buy it for life" kinda thing IMO.


----------



## 4lek

Ye well still i can't chose betwheen supernova and Corsair Ax.. i have both amazon pages open from hours and i can't decide myself to click buy in one of the two









[By the way, 1600 p2 is exactly 70 € more expensive than 1200 here, and to be honest..unfortunatley i'm not that guy who can buy himself a Ferrari, but i definitly can spend 70€ more withouth remorese yet... depside they are screwing our economy up]


----------



## Kimir

Get whatever evga is offering, cause screw corsair and their price tag.


----------



## shilka

Multi rail is safer but also more annoying if you overload a rail by mistake.


----------



## 4lek

Wait a sec: but Ax1500i is not Multi rail AT ALL!
It's a single rail psu with a virtual option in its software to "simulate" multi rail.

Oh god, i lost 2 days







I'm gonna buy a P2. period.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vienoz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I think I do, but I am at work. I say think, as I have the leadex (superflower the oem) version of the psu, I don't know that they changed of, however I would recommend spending $20 at a auto parts store and buy a multi meter. Even a cheap one.
> 
> 
> 
> Aaaah, that would be awesome man! Yeah no worries, I already have a multi meter. I work with computers and small electronics, hence how I eventually found the courage to take this job on, but I'll be honest and admit I haven't done much modding around power supplies before.
> Still waiting for the MDPC-X sleeving to arrive though!
> 
> Would be great if you could get back to me on that pinout. It's really odd, the connectors on the PSU side are all identical, regardless of what you connect them too. Makes for an easier job if you have the pinouts only on one though, I suppose.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the wait, have been super busy with the baby.

Hopefully this helps

This is looking at the PSU!!

Led pin when grounded brings on led


----------



## Quickman

I'm looking to buy a Supernova G3 550W or RM550x to go in a everyday desktop machine(Antec 300) with integrated graphics.

The most important things for me are:

- No coil whine
- Low ripple
- Excellent voltage regulation
- reliability

I can't figure out which one to get. There's the review on jonnyguru with the G3 750W version which looks good but the G3 750W+ versions have a 10 year warranty vs the G3 550W/650W which has a 7 year warranty. Are the same parts used, or different parts?

Since I won't be pushing the PSU over 250W the PSU fan won't be turning on unless I take the G3 with the eco button. The PSU mounts at the bottom on the Antec 300. If I put the PSU with fan opening faced downwards. Is it ok to do so with the fan off, or will the heat get trapped and slowly kill the life out of the components?

If I decide to turn eco button off, and leave the HDB fan always. Can the fan last 10 years? Personally I'd love to keep the fan always running at a low speed to cool the components in the PSU.

I'm tempted to give the SuperNova G3 a go but I worry about quality control.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickman*
> 
> I'm looking to buy a Supernova G3 550W or RM550x to go in a everyday desktop machine(Antec 300) with integrated graphics.
> 
> The most important things for me are:
> 
> - No coil whine
> - Low ripple
> - Excellent voltage regulation
> - reliability
> 
> I can't figure out which one to get. There's the review on jonnyguru with the G3 750W version which looks good but the G3 750W+ versions have a 10 year warranty vs the G3 550W/650W which has a 7 year warranty. Are the same parts used, or different parts?
> 
> Since I won't be pushing the PSU over 250W the PSU fan won't be turning on unless I take the G3 with the eco button. The PSU mounts at the bottom on the Antec 300. If I put the PSU with fan opening faced downwards. Is it ok to do so with the fan off, or will the heat get trapped and slowly kill the life out of the components?
> 
> If I decide to turn eco button off, and leave the HDB fan always. Can the fan last 10 years? Personally I'd love to keep the fan always running at a low speed to cool the components in the PSU.
> 
> I'm tempted to give the SuperNova G3 a go but I worry about quality control.


I would pick the G3 but there is another option you probably dont know about

The new Bitfenix Whisper is on par with the RMx and the G2 and it cost about the same
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=Bitfenix+PSU&N=-1&isNodeId=1

It also have a 450 watt version something the EVGA and Corsair is missing in their high end series
Whatever you do dont get a Bitfenix Fury as that one SUCKS!


----------



## Quickman

Thanks for the heads up on the Bitfenix. I notice the OEM is Channel Well GPU Series where is the RM550x is just Channel Well. Whatever that means?

I'm not a fan of ribbon cables on the ATX. 450W is nicer though. But I won't add that to my choices.

If you don't have the fan on with the G3, should you have the fan facing up if it's mounted at the bottom of the case so heat can just escape thru the fan grill? I just don't want any dust or anything falling into it which is why I would prefer to have the fan facing downwards.

What kind of history does Superflower have?


----------



## TwoCables

Channel Well Technologies (CWT) is a manufacturer. The RMx Series is based on some CWT series of PSUs, but I don't know what that series is. We know what the series is for the BitFenix Whisper, so we're pointing it out.


----------



## YOEL44

Well I also want to figure as a proud owner of a Super flower Leadex II Gold 650W (White flavor), so here are my pics:
By the way, the output in my home is not the best and I could get it for free so I'm running it through an APC Smart-UPS 1000




Spoiler: My rig: Puky Lightning


----------



## Quickman

Ok, I went and ordered the 550 G3.

I noticed the sata cable only has 3 connectors per cable. I'll have one SSD, two mechanical hard drives connected to those cables. I will also be using the 4 pin peripheral cable to connect to 2 Antec 120 mm Case fans. I still have to connect the seldom used DVD writer.

If I use a 4 pin molex to SATA adapter(Link below) how will this affect voltage regulation. Does the DVD-RW Drive draw any power when not being used?

Am I better off just sacrificing cable management and just using the 2nd sata cable to connect to the DVD-RW drive?

Adapter link: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200061


----------



## Scotty99

Whats the quietest EVGA PSU that has individual PCI-E cables (meaning one 8 pin on each cable). Dont want to have to run a cable that has two 8 pins on it lol.

How is this one, i havent done PSU research in forver:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1056603-REG/evga_120_g1_0750_xr_750w_supernova_gold_psu.html

Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickman*
> 
> Ok, I went and ordered the 550 G3.
> 
> I noticed the sata cable only has 3 connectors per cable. I'll have one SSD, two mechanical hard drives connected to those cables. I will also be using the 4 pin peripheral cable to connect to 2 Antec 120 mm Case fans. I still have to connect the seldom used DVD writer.
> 
> If I use a 4 pin molex to SATA adapter(Link below) how will this affect voltage regulation. Does the DVD-RW Drive draw any power when not being used?
> 
> Am I better off just sacrificing cable management and just using the 2nd sata cable to connect to the DVD-RW drive?
> 
> Adapter link: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200061


Unless there is a problem with it, it won't


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> How is this one, i havent done PSU research in forver:
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1056603-REG/evga_120_g1_0750_xr_750w_supernova_gold_psu.html
> 
> Thanks.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g-aka-g1


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1476935/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-supernova-nex650g-750g-aka-g1


Eh but it has a 10 year warranty, how can it be that bad?

Can you link me a better one that has 4 outputs for VGA so i can run just a single 8 pin to GPU?

Thanks.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Eh but it has a 10 year warranty, how can it be that bad?


Read the thread and find out why
The warranty does not matter when the regulation sucks as bad as it does on the NEX aka G1

As for your question both the G2 and the G3 series has what you looking for.

Edit: the Bitfenix Whisper is also an option


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Read the thread and find out why
> The warranty does not matter when the regulation sucks as bad as it does on the NEX aka G1
> 
> As for your question both the G2 and the G3 series has what you looking for.
> 
> Edit: the Bitfenix Whisper is also an option


You are wrong:
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1

That only has 2 VGA outputs and the cable has two pci-e 8 pins on the video card end.

Same story with the g3....
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/y88H99/evga-supernova-g3-650w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0650


----------



## shilka

I was talking about the 750 watt version which has 4x 6+2 pin PCI-E cables or at least my 750 watt G2 has 4x 6+2.


----------



## TwoCables

If the 750W G1 were priced a *LOT* lower, then it wouldn't be an issue.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> If the 750W G1 were priced a *LOT* lower, then it wouldn't be an issue.


Could you suggest the 650w nex model for 78 bucks? I dont know why i originally linked the 750, 650w is the one i was interested in.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Could you suggest the 650w nex model for 78 bucks? I dont know why i originally linked the 750, 650w is the one i was interested in.


Nope, I'm afraid I can't.


----------



## shilka

The NEX aka G1 series blows and they are way overpriced
Does not matter if its the NEX 650 / NEX 750 / 650 G1 / 750 G1 they all suck and they will all hold your overclock back because of their super crappy voltage regulation.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nope, I'm afraid I can't.


Could you link me a review for the supernova nex 650w? It is literally the best selling PSU on the market according to PC partpicker, but when googling trying to find a review all i can find is one of the older 650, the one that has the chrome bar sticking out the back of it. This is the one i am looking at:

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/g63RsY/evga-power-supply-120g10650xr


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Could you link me a review for the supernova nex 650w? It is literally the best selling PSU on the market according to PC partpicker, but when googling trying to find a review all i can find is one of the older 650, the one that has the chrome bar sticking out the back of it. This is the one i am looking at:
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/product/g63RsY/evga-power-supply-120g10650xr


No problem: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=442

Just because a PSU is "the best seller", it doesn't mean it's good. It just means that marketing is working well for that PSU.


----------



## shilka

Best seller HA! thats a bunch of marketing hype
What i dont get is you got a link to a thread where i explained everything that was wrong with it in deails

And the NEX and G1 are the exact same thing minus the handle bar on the back so if you find a review for the NEX you found a review for the G1.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Best seller HA! thats either marketing hype or there are a lot of idiots out there
> 
> What i dont get is you got a link to a thread where i explained everything that was wrong with in deails and clear as day
> Did you even bother to look at it?


Let's not start a fight man come on. We're here to teach and guide and lead.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No problem: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=442
> 
> Just because a PSU is "the best seller", it doesn't mean it's good. It just means that marketing is working well for that PSU.


Thanks for the link, but i am a bit perplexed. It received an overall 8.5 with value bringing it down the most, since that review was done the price has come way down from MSRP. He seems to be having to find nitpicks to say anything bad about the PSU. I have been researching PSU's for a few days now, and this seems to be the best built one for the money when you look at the quality of the modular connections and amount of them.

I guess i could go for the 750w G2 like suggested, but i will be having a gtx 1060 in my build and that 22 dollars is just wasted since no SLI support (or maybe a 1060ti if that gets announced today).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Thanks for the link, but i am a bit perplexed. It received an overall 8.5 with value bringing it down the most, since that review was done the price has come way down from MSRP. He seems to be having to find nitpicks to say anything bad about the PSU. I have been researching PSU's for a few days now, and this seems to be the best build one for the money when you look at the quality of the modular connections and amount of them.
> 
> I guess i could go for the 750w G2 like suggested, but i will be having a gtx 1060 in my build and that 20 dollars is just wasted since no SLI support (or maybe a 1060ti if that gets announced today).


No SLI support?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No SLI support?


You cant SLI 1060's.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> You cant SLI 1060's.


Oh I thought you were talking about the PSU.


----------



## TwoCables

What precisely do you need out of the PSU? Can you lay it all out for us?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What precisely do you need out of the PSU? Can you lay it all out for us?


I want fully modular with 4 PCI-E connections on the PSU so when i run the GPU cable there will be a single 8 pin, instead of some PSU's where they only have two PCI-E connectors and split into two 8 pins on the GPU side.

The 650w nex is the cheapest PSU i could find that had this.


----------



## shilka

Alright let me explain whats wrong with it and in short its because they are group regulated which means the 12v 5v and 3,3v rails are treated as one big group and not regulated individually

What this means is the voltage regulation sucks because of that

That thread i gave you a link to has all the info about that in it and so does the review TwoCables just gave
The numbers are all right there if you actually bother to read them and not just look at the final score

The NEX aka G1 sucks they always has and they also will no matter what anyone claims.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I want fully modular with 4 PCI-E connections on the PSU so when i run the GPU cable there will be a single 8 pin, instead of some PSU's where they only have two PCI-E connectors and split into two 8 pins on the GPU side.
> 
> The 650w nex is the cheapest PSU i could find that had this.


What difference does this make? Is it really worth buying a PSU that's more harmful to your computer? PSUs are investments.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Alright let me explain whats wrong with it and in short its because they are group regulated which means the 12v 5v and 3,3v rails are treated as one big group and not regulated individually
> 
> What this means is the voltage regulation sucks because of that
> 
> That thread i gave you a link to has all the info about that in it and so does the review TwoCables just gave
> The numbers are all right there if you actually bother to read them and not just look at the final score
> 
> The NEX aka G1 sucks they always has and they also will no matter what anyone claims.


That's all but gibberish to me lol. I dunno man, 8.5 from johhnyguru and a 10 year warranty for under 80 dollars does not seem bad to me.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> That's all but gibberish to me lol. I dunno man, 8.5 from johhnyguru and a 10 year warranty for under 80 dollars does not seem bad to me.


That's because there's a lot you don't know yet. It's our job to fill you in. Sometimes that's hard.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What difference does this make? Is it really worth buying a PSU that's more harmful to your computer? PSUs are investments.


Wow settle down my dude, are you angry that i want a single 8 pin near my GPU instead of two 8 pins where i would have to cable tie one up to hide it?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Wow settle down my dude, are you angry that i want a single 8 pin near my GPU instead of two 8 pins where i would have to cable tie one up to hide it?


Settle down? I'm as calm as can be. I'm just asking you a question.


----------



## Scotty99

So you are actually saying the 650w nex would hamper my max overclocks? That seems hard to swallow, do you have proof of this?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> That's all but gibberish to me lol. I dunno man, 8.5 from johhnyguru and a 10 year warranty for under 80 dollars does not seem bad to me.


What it means is the NEX aka G1 will make your system much less stable and run worse because of the crappy voltage regulation

Dont be fooled by marketing hype like fully modular 10 year warranty and 80 plus gold none of those things have anything to do with quality
Group regulated is something that was common around the year 2000 so what it means is you are buying a PSU that might as well be 17 years old.


----------



## Scotty99

Look at it from my perspective:

1. Best selling PSU on the market
2. 10 year warranty
3. Good rating from one of the best review sites
4. Just looking at it, the PSU appears to be well built and has good quality modular connections compared to others in its price bracket (corsair cxm series, looks wayyy cheaper to build for same money).

But i come in here and you guys tell me its crap....


----------



## shilka

See my last post and yes it is crap


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> So you are actually saying the 650w nex would hamper my max overclocks? That seems hard to swallow, do you have proof of this?


The more stable the power is coming from the PSU, the easier overclocking is and the higher you can overclock. The power coming out of these NEX units isn't exactly stable, nowhere near like how stable the G2's power delivery is. Stability comes from superior voltage regulation and superior ripple suppression.

Computers (and other electronics with PCBs in them) are also extremely sensitive to power stability and can last a lot longer with far more stable power like high-end PSUs deliver. That's why it's also important to use the best surge suppressor you can find.

The PSU is taking that Alternating Current out of the wall outlet (highly unstable) and converting it into Direct Current. The more direct and stable it is, the better everything is for a computer.


----------



## Scotty99

Ok well how about this. i have this PSU currently and its been running my 2500k overclocked for over 6 years now:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371047

Is the EVGA 650w nex an inferior product to this antec?


----------



## TwoCables

The more you know, the easier it is to understand why PSUs like this aren't worth the price being charged.


----------



## shilka

The NEX aka G1 has some of the worst voltage regulation you can find
And like i said before it might have been a decent PSU in the year 2000 but these days its massive joke.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> The more you know, the easier it is to understand why PSUs like this aren't worth the price being charged.


But there is something to be said about build quality, no? I mean just looking at the 650w nex, its casing and connectors are of vastly superior quality than anything i can find from corsair or seasonic at this pricing.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> But there is something to be said about build quality, no? I mean just looking at the 650w nex, its casing and connectors are of vastly superior quality than anything i can find from corsair or seasonic at this pricing.


Its not

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/NEX750G/4.html

Quote from that review

EVGA trusted FSP with their smaller SuperNova units, and they, to be more specific, utilized their Aurum platform. Definitely not the platform we would use for a PSU that belongs to a high-end series and one that has to compete with pretty advanced opponents, since the Aurum platform, although it combines low production cost with high efficiency, exhibits low performance in situations where the load on the rails is highly unbalanced (e.g. in our crossload tests). On the primary side, we meet an Active Clamp Reset Forward (ACRF) topology in which two mosfets are used: one plays the role of the main switcher (Q1) and the other is the reset switch (Q2) that disconnects the main capacitor(s) while Q1 is active.

Its not quality its old and outdated and a total laughing stock compared to almost ANY Corsair or Seasonic unit


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Look at it from my perspective:
> 
> 1. Best selling PSU on the market
> 2. 10 year warranty
> 3. Good rating from one of the best review sites
> 4. Just looking at it, the PSU appears to be well built and has good quality modular connections compared to others in its price bracket (corsair cxm series, looks wayyy cheaper to build for same money).
> 
> But i come in here and you guys tell me its crap....


1. The quality of a PSU isn't judged by how good of a seller it is. That's just evidence that marketing is working well for that PSU.

2. 10-year warranty doesn't mean the PSU is good. It just means it has a 10-year warranty. Do you want to end up having to use that warranty or do you want a PSU you can rely on?

3. That's not a good rating.

4. You're looking at buying an inferior PSU for reasons that aren't worth it. The PSU is the single-most important part of a computer. If you invest in an inferior PSU because of things like this, then you're not making a wise investment at all. I'm sorry.

It's crap for that price. If it were about $40 or $50, then fine. Don't buy a low-quality inferior PSU just because of slightly better cable management. How much of a difference is that really going to make in the long-run in comparison to a PSU that provides far more stable power?


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its not
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/NEX750G/4.html
> 
> Quote from that review
> 
> EVGA trusted FSP with their smaller SuperNova units, and they, to be more specific, utilized their Aurum platform. Definitely not the platform we would use for a PSU that belongs to a high-end series and one that has to compete with pretty advanced opponents, since the Aurum platform, although it combines low production cost with high efficiency, exhibits low performance in situations where the load on the rails is highly unbalanced (e.g. in our crossload tests). On the primary side, we meet an Active Clamp Reset Forward (ACRF) topology in which two mosfets are used: one plays the role of the main switcher (Q1) and the other is the reset switch (Q2) that disconnects the main capacitor(s) while Q1 is active.


Isnt that an older revision? It has the chrome bar sticking out the back of it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> But there is something to be said about build quality, no? I mean just looking at the 650w nex, its casing and connectors are of vastly superior quality than anything i can find from corsair or seasonic at this pricing.


We're talking about the quality of what's inside the PSU's case. I don't care what the case's quality is or anything else because that's not responsible for delivering power to the computer.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Isnt that an older revision? It has the chrome bar sticking out the back of it.


Like i said many times already its exactly the same old oudated group regulated FSP Aurum inside
Does not matter how it looks on the outside its the insides that count.


----------



## Scotty99

I guess ill be spending 20 bucks more on the 750w g2 even tho i dont need those watts, or is there another PSU at the 100 dollar price point you would recommend over it?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I guess ill be spending 20 bucks more on the 750w g2 even tho i dont need those watts, or is there another PSU at the 100 dollar price point you would recommend over it?


It's only 100W more and $20 is a tiny increase for an investment like this. You're investing in your computer. It's not good to build a computer and then power it with an inferior PSU just because of something like slightly better cable management. I hate cable ties too, but I think you'll be surprised.

There's an endless amount of knowledge to be gained, and you're just scratching the surface. That's why this is all so difficult to understand and why it just seems extremely stupid to you. I get it. I remember starting out not knowing much about this stuff either. It's completely impossible to understand when you don't have the knowledge to draw upon to give you that understanding.


----------



## chronicfx

Hi @shilka while you are active. I have a CPU overclock of 4.9 @1.500v on a 6700k using a Z170x gigabyte gaming 7 board and a 1000w P2. I have been running it for about a year. The issue I have is that sometimes when booting cold I get the reset bios screen with the choices between enter bios or last known 5x boot etc... At this point I just enter bios and load my overclock and boot in with 100% at that point without problem. I tend to think it is when the computer has been sitting overnight or longer, but, what I can't figure out if it is the PSU losing some juice while sitting and can't complete the start-up at that amperage req'd or if the fault lies with my UPS which is a Cyberpower GX1325U restricting the startup amperage. I am sure the next advice would be to disconnect the UPS and check just from the wall, but, I would rather not. Have you heard of cold boot problems with this PSU or Motherboard? Thank you in advance


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> It's only 100W more and $20 is a tiny increase for an investment like this. You're investing in your computer. It's not good to build a computer and then power it with an inferior PSU just because of something like slightly better cable management. I hate cable ties too, but I think you'll be surprised.
> 
> There's an endless amount of knowledge to be gained, and you're just scratching the surface. That's why this is all so difficult to understand and why it just seems extremely stupid to you. I get it. I remember starting out not knowing much about this stuff either.


Fair enough, was just trying to keep costs down but i do understand how important the electricity is going into your components. Especially when i will have a 330-400 dollar CPU (havent decided on which AMD chip yet).

I will say tho, how is EVGA able to keep the warranty at 10 years on the 650w nex? I guess volume of sales outweighs what they get back in RMA's?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Fair enough, was just trying to keep costs down but i do understand how important the electricity is going into your components. Especially when i will have a 330-400 dollar CPU (havent decided on which AMD chip yet).
> 
> I will say tho, how is EVGA able to keep the warranty at 10 years on the 650w nex? I guess volume of sales outweighs what they get back in RMA's?


I don't know. I think that's just a marketing trick to get people to buy the PSUs. That's what I would do if I were in business to make money. It's not a nice thought, but I think that's the truth.

What's wrong with the 550W G2 though? Or the Corsair RM550x? (it has to have the 'x' in the name)


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I don't know. I think that's just a marketing trick to get people to buy the PSUs. That's what I would do if I were in business to make money. It's not a nice thought, but I think that's the truth.
> 
> What's wrong with the 550W G2 though? Or the Corsair RM550x? (it has to have the 'x' in the name)


They both have 2 pci-e plugs on the PSU, so the cabling would not look good with 2 8 pins near the GPU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> They both have 2 pci-e plugs on the PSU, so the cabling would not look good with 2 8 pins near the GPU.


So you'll be looking at the cabling a lot? I'm just trying to make a point. I spent a huge amount of time and energy on my cable management for the sake of beauty, but now I feel it wasn't worth it because I never even look at it. I did at first, but it was just a temporary joy and a temporary pleasure.

I just don't think cable management beauty is important enough to justify feeding inferior-quality power to your computer for the next few years or more. After a short time, you'll be wishing you went with the best PSU possible in terms of its power delivery. Beautiful cable management is just not all that important in comparison. It's fun and provides pleasure, but that's about it. When the novelty of it wears off, what are you left with?

Can you imagine buying a junker of a PSU just because it has pretty LED lights and a see-through acrylic case with a beautiful array of lights inside of it?


----------



## shilka

Alright i am going to try and explain some stuff and i am going to try and be as basic as i can

What happens if power goes out the wall and that power is either 110v if you live in the US or 220-240v if you live in the EU
What happens is the PSU takes that power and convert it to power a PC can use because if you send 110v-240v power to PC hardware its going to blow up

So the PSU has to convert 110v-240v to 3 main types of power 12v 5v and 3,3v
Thats what the name rail comes from each one of those 3 voltages have their own rail

Are you with me so far?

So what happens is because all 3 are treated as one big group instead of individually the control over them gets much worse and that send much worse and unstable power out to the system

This is what group regulated means and group regulated is something that is way outdated and almost never used anymore
Cant be any more clear then that and if you still dont understand then sory i am tired since its way past midnight here

Twocables might be able to explain it better.


----------



## Scotty99

Like i said im willing to move up to the 750w g2, and yes merely for the fact i can run a single 8 pin to my GPU lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Like i said im willing to move up to the 750w g2, and yes merely for the fact i can run a single 8 pin to my GPU lol.


I think a day will come where you'll stop caring as much about superficial things like that, but you suit yourself. I can only help you make the most informed decision possible.

At the end of the day, you're really not going to care about a super small detail of your cable management's beauty.


----------



## shilka

I just spent the better part of an hour past midnight here trying to help you so i would appreciate it if you could bother to read my last post
Good night.


----------



## chronicfx

Looks like you had a hard night Shilka. Don't worry about my question I can live with it, I have for a year now. Get some sleep (depending on your timezone)


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Looks like you had a hard night Shilka. Don't worry about my question I can live with it, I have for a year now. Get some sleep (depending on your timezone)


He's not the only one who can help you. You might get some good help if you make a thread.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I just spent the better part of an hour past midnight here trying to help you so i would appreciate it if you could bother to read my last post
> Good night.


TBH i think the 650w nex is just fine given my experiences with the antec i have now, but with the money im spending on my next rig 20 bucks is a drop in the bucket and better safe than sorry right?

Preciate the replies dudes.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> TBH i think the 650w nex is just fine given my experiences with the antec i have now, but with the money im spending on my next rig 20 bucks is a crapshoot and better safe than sorry right?
> 
> Preciate the replies dudes.


$20 isn't worth it for slightly prettier cable management. In a few months from now or a year from now, you'll wonder why you felt it was worth it. That's why I asked what's wrong with PSUs like the 550W G2 or RM550x and other vastly superior PSUs that cost the same as the 750W G1.

What will you be looking at the most? Your cable management? Or your monitor? Again, I'm only trying to make a point here.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> $20 isn't worth it for slightly prettier cable management. In a few months from now or a year from now, you'll wonder why you felt it was worth it. That's why I asked what's wrong with PSUs like the 550W G2 or RM550x and other vastly superior PSUs that cost the same as the 750W G1.
> 
> What will you be looking at the most? Your cable management? Or your monitor? Again, I'm only trying to make a point here.


Of course i cant disagree with that lol, this is the first rig i will be building with aesthetics in mind so i dont mind spending a few bucks here and there to keep it nice. Mind you i have been building PC's since 2001, so its been a long time coming lol.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Of course i cant disagree with that lol, this is the first rig i will be building with aesthetics in mind so i dont mind spending a few bucks here and there to keep it nice. Mind you i have been building PC's since 2001, so its been a long time coming lol.


Oh wow, when you put it that way, $20 extra is nothing. I can see now what you will be getting out of it. Sure, the novelty of it will wear off (it always does), but the way you put it just now makes me see just how worth it it is.

Even temporary good pleasure like that can be "just what the doctor ordered".


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Nope, I'm afraid I can't.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you link me a review for the supernova nex 650w? It is literally the best selling PSU on the market according to PC partpicker, but when googling trying to find a review all i can find is one of the older 650, the one that has the chrome bar sticking out the back of it. This is the one i am looking at:
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/product/g63RsY/evga-power-supply-120g10650xr
Click to expand...

just for future ref, pc part picker is a poor website to use for anything of any form of metrics.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Best seller HA! thats a bunch of marketing hype
> What i dont get is you got a link to a thread where i explained everything that was wrong with it in deails
> 
> And the NEX and G1 are the exact same thing minus the handle bar on the back so if you find a review for the NEX you found a review for the G1.


please do read it. shilka is amazing at stating things in plain launguage so anyone can understand. that is why i love him ~~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No problem: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=442
> 
> Just because a PSU is "the best seller", it doesn't mean it's good. It just means that marketing is working well for that PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link, but i am a bit perplexed. It received an overall 8.5 with value bringing it down the most, since that review was done the price has come way down from MSRP. He seems to be having to find nitpicks to say anything bad about the PSU. I have been researching PSU's for a few days now, and this seems to be the best built one for the money when you look at the quality of the modular connections and amount of them.
> 
> I guess i could go for the 750w G2 like suggested, but i will be having a gtx 1060 in my build and that 22 dollars is just wasted since no SLI support (or maybe a 1060ti if that gets announced today).
Click to expand...

if you were, then i would recommend reading this

http://www.overclock.net/t/715889/phaedrus-psu-articles/0_100#post9110838

read everything under articles and myth busting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> What precisely do you need out of the PSU? Can you lay it all out for us?
> 
> 
> 
> I want fully modular with 4 PCI-E connections on the PSU so when i run the GPU cable there will be a single 8 pin, instead of some PSU's where they only have two PCI-E connectors and split into two 8 pins on the GPU side.
> 
> The 650w nex is the cheapest PSU i could find that had this.
Click to expand...

exactly ... how much are you going to spend on your build .... is it worth risking everything your psu attaches to ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> So you are actually saying the 650w nex would hamper my max overclocks? That seems hard to swallow, do you have proof of this?


read the link in the first post shilka replied to you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Look at it from my perspective:
> 
> 1. Best selling PSU on the market
> 2. 10 year warranty
> 3. Good rating from one of the best review sites
> 4. Just looking at it, the PSU appears to be well built and has good quality modular connections compared to others in its price bracket (corsair cxm series, looks wayyy cheaper to build for same money).
> 
> But i come in here and you guys tell me its crap....


1 no it isnt. again poor site to use for that metric, or any metric
2 means nothing, except the price goes up as no warranty is ever free
3 meh rating at best
4 looking at it means nothing esp when you dont know what your looking for
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronicfx*
> 
> Hi @shilka while you are active. I have a CPU overclock of 4.9 @1.500v on a 6700k using a Z170x gigabyte gaming 7 board and a 1000w P2. I have been running it for about a year. The issue I have is that sometimes when booting cold I get the reset bios screen with the choices between enter bios or last known 5x boot etc... At this point I just enter bios and load my overclock and boot in with 100% at that point without problem. I tend to think it is when the computer has been sitting overnight or longer, but, what I can't figure out if it is the PSU losing some juice while sitting and can't complete the start-up at that amperage req'd or if the fault lies with my UPS which is a Cyberpower GX1325U restricting the startup amperage. I am sure the next advice would be to disconnect the UPS and check just from the wall, but, I would rather not. Have you heard of cold boot problems with this PSU or Motherboard? Thank you in advance


i doubt it has anything to do with psu
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Like i said im willing to move up to the 750w g2, and yes merely for the fact i can run a single 8 pin to my GPU lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I think a day will come where you'll stop caring as much about superficial things like that, but you suit yourself. I can only help you make the most informed decision possible.
> 
> At the end of the day, you're really not going to care about a super small detail of your cable management's beauty.
Click to expand...

or make your own cables or buy custom
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I just spent the better part of an hour past midnight here trying to help you so i would appreciate it if you could bother to read my last post
> Good night.
> 
> 
> 
> TBH i think the 650w nex is just fine given my experiences with the antec i have now, but with the money im spending on my next rig 20 bucks is a drop in the bucket and better safe than sorry right?
> 
> Preciate the replies dudes.
Click to expand...

the big thing to know, we are trying to give you the best advice we can. we would not buy that psu.. it isnt because it will burn down your pc, odds are it will run it fine. but it is not the best option anymore. nor is a a good option at this time. more over poor voltage input to your motherboard vrms = poor voltage output ( please note by poor i mean worse---- worse voltage output = lower oc usually )


----------



## Kimir

TLR
Don't go cheap on your PSU, it power all of your rig components. Get a quality PSU and call it a day.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

1000w G3 incoming next week from Newegg. Had to, that thing is alittle beast.


----------



## Freakydude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1000w G3 incoming next week from Newegg. Had to, that thing is alittle beast.


Got my G3 1000 watt last week, you will freak when you see how small it is, totally amazing but the quality is wow, packaging, cables and the PSU itself is amazing. Piece of cake to hook up. Even the fan has little dimples kind of on it, The dimples are supposed to create vortexs that counter act the noise levels from the fan. It must work because I can't hear it at all and I have my case on my desk beside me.


----------



## Nestala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1000w G3 incoming next week from Newegg. Had to, that thing is alittle beast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freakydude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1000w G3 incoming next week from Newegg. Had to, that thing is alittle beast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got my G3 1000 watt last week, you will freak when you see how small it is, totally amazing but the quality is wow, packaging, cables and the PSU itself is amazing. Piece of cake to hook up. Even the fan has little dimples kind of on it, The dimples are supposed to create vortexs that counter act the noise levels from the fan. It must work because I can't hear it at all and I have my case on my desk beside me.
Click to expand...

Just ordered one as well, although the 750W one


----------



## ondoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1000w G3 incoming next week from Newegg. Had to, that thing is alittle beast.


am i missing something ? i got my 1k g3 from amazon for 139.99 with free shipping.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ondoy*
> 
> am i missing something ? i got my 1k g3 from amazon for 139.99 with free shipping.


It's probably from newegg.ca. Either way, look closer at the screenshot. The subtotal is $199.99, shipping is $31.67, and there's something called "GST/HST" which is $11.58. So he's not in the U.S.


----------



## ondoy

oh right, was looking at the total.


----------



## shilka

Edmonton is in Canada last i checked so by newegg he means newegg.ca not newegg.com

.com
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438096&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNova_G3-_-17-438-096-_-Product

.ca
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438096&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNova_G3-_-17-438-096-_-Product


----------



## Martigane

I got the 650W P2.
I chose it for its silence since the fan only switch above 350W. So It basically never spins on my setup (except full GPU+CPU stress test).

Plus its ripple suppression and load regulation are top notch, I bet this baby is part of the reasons for my great overclocking.
Love this unit.


----------



## pez

That G3 1Kw PSU _does_ looks small. That's pretty awesome.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Can add to the club now!



This little beast is just what I expected from the reviews. Might need to remove the big sticker there for the all black look.


----------



## Barefooter

Do you think we might see a G3, P3 or T3 version of the 1600 watt power supplies this year sometime?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Do you think we might see a G3, P3 or T3 version of the 1600 watt power supplies this year sometime?


I think thats unlikely as they sell a lot fewer of the 1600 watt units then they sell the lower wattage units
But who knows they might but my personal opinion is its unlikely.


----------



## Scotty99

Would you guys consider the ax760 to be superior to the G2 750w?

I can get it for 79.99 refurb with 1 year warranty:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139119

Thanks.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Would you guys consider the ax760 to be superior to the G2 750w?
> 
> I can get it for 79.99 refurb with 1 year warranty:
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139119
> 
> Thanks.


Its inferior and you should never buy a refurbished PSU.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its inferior and you should never buy a refurbished PSU.


Gotcha lol

One last question, i didn't even realize this existed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Reviewed well with a quiet fan, is this a buy for ~30 bucks less than a 750 G2? Just cant bring myself to spend over 100 on a PSU when my components are going to be drawing ~300w max. (r7 1700 gtx 1060 6gb).

Thanks


----------



## shilka

The GQ 650 watt is mediocre which is reason why its cheaper
Why are you even looking at a 650-750 watt PSU for such a low power system?

What you should do instead is buy a Bitfenix Whisper 450 watt
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817376008&cm_re=Bitfenix_PSU-_-17-376-008-_-Product

Edit: the 450 watt is out of stock but the 550 watt is not
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817376007&cm_re=Bitfenix_PSU-_-17-376-007-_-Product


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The GQ 650 watt is mediocre which is reason why its cheaper
> Why are you even looking at a 650-750 watt PSU for such a low power system?
> 
> What you should do instead is buy a Bitfenix Whisper 450 watt
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817376008&cm_re=Bitfenix_PSU-_-17-376-008-_-Product
> 
> Edit: the 450 watt is out of stock but the 550 watt is not
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817376007&cm_re=Bitfenix_PSU-_-17-376-007-_-Product


Dont hate me but i ordered the GQ lol. I forgot i had a 65 dollar gift card at amazon, so it came out to 15 bucks after tax.

Well the reason i originally wanted 650 or higher is because in my current PC the antec PSU in my sig has the loudest fan of all my components, i figured id overdo it a bit to keep fan noise down. From reviews of the GQ it seems the fan only produces 15db of noise with ~300w power draw, that id be really happy with. Guess ill find out when i finally build this thing.

Thanks for all advice


----------



## Psyclone

Need some advice on which 650W PSU is more silent.
I can buy the Leadex I, Leadex II, G2 and G3 with only around €5 price difference.
It seems like the G3 would be the best option, but i'm confused because i think it has one of the smallest fan out of the 3.
But then again, it has a HDB fan so surely it must be the quietest one, no?
Should i just go with the newest one if the price is the same for all?
Thanks


----------



## GraphicsWhore

I was all set on a G3 850, but I'm reading reviews that say whether in eco mode or not, the fan is loud as hell. Can anyone confirm this? This would be a deal breaker for me.


----------



## Scotty99

Update on my 650w GQ purchase, ive yet to see the fan turn on lol.

650w psu with a r7 1700 and gtx 1060=silent pc?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Update on my 650w GQ purchase, ive yet to see the fan turn on lol.
> 
> 650w psu with a r7 1700 and gtx 1060=silent pc?


The EVGA SuperNova GQ series are an FSP made series which means they dont belong in this club as this club are for the Leadex and Leadex II based units
And second its very mediocre so if you bought a GQ you made a mistake.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The EVGA SuperNova GQ series are an FSP made series which means they dont belong in this club as this club are for the Leadex and Leadex II based units
> And second its very mediocre so if you bought a GQ you made a mistake.


Yes yes you told me before, i will make sure to send you the ashes of my burnt down house when that happens. I have never seen someone so passionate about power supplies, +rep lol.


----------



## shilka

Ah you are that guy that found a GQ for $73 right?
But why post here? as said the GQ is an FSP unit and this club are for Super Flower Leadex I and Leadex II units.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Ah you are that guy that found a GQ for $73 right?


Yes lol. Like i said i had a budget to stick to, you actually replied to me on youtube (which i figured out later was you) and you said for 73 bucks the GQ was the best in that price bracket.

Had i another 40 in my budget i woulda went for the G2 but moneys tight these days.

Wasnt posting as an owner of the G2, just wanted to update that the fan was silent on that one.

Ill make sure not to post here again.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Yes lol. Like i said i had a budget to stick to, you actually replied to me on youtube (which i figured out later was you) and you said for 73 bucks the GQ was the best in that price bracket.
> 
> Had i another 40 in my budget i woulda went for the G2 but moneys tight these days.
> 
> Wasnt posting as an owner of the G2, just wanted to update that the fan was silent on that one.
> 
> Ill make sure not to post here again.


Could not recall where i talked to you which is why i was so confused
The site you bought from had indeed nothing better in the same price range.


----------



## SuperBettaFish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I was all set on a G3 850, but I'm reading reviews that say whether in eco mode or not, the fan is loud as hell. Can anyone confirm this? This would be a deal breaker for me.


I can tell you that is not true. I have a G3 850 and it is a great PSU. Quiet with ECO mode but personally I let the fan run at all time.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperBettaFish*
> 
> I can tell you that is not true. I have a G3 850 and it is a great PSU. Quiet with ECO mode but personally I let the fan run at all time.


I need to have the fan running all the time or the unit gets warm at idle, then the fan comes on at a high RPM that is very audible. This is with the 1000 G3. But the fan is silent anyways when I leave eco mode off. So I don't mind having it off.


----------



## Psyclone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyclone*
> 
> Need some advice on which 650W PSU is more silent.
> I can buy the Leadex I, Leadex II, G2 and G3 with only around €5 price difference.
> It seems like the G3 would be the best option, but i'm confused because i think it has one of the smallest fan out of the 3.
> But then again, it has a HDB fan so surely it must be the quietest one, no?
> Should i just go with the newest one if the price is the same for all?
> Thanks


@shilka Some help please?


----------



## SuperBettaFish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyclone*


]I have the following PSUs, G2 750w, 850w, 1050w, 1200w, and G3 850w, 650w, and P2 650w. The G3 650w is by far the quietest. G2 750w is the loudest but unfortunately it is a PSU I used in a main workstation. Eco mode is off for all of them.


----------



## EyeChoose

PSU is Super flower Leadex II gold or EVGA G3 better?
Super flower Leadex II plat or EVGA P3 better?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyclone*
> 
> @shilka Some help please?


I am not familiar with the G3 series as i dont own one myself
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> PSU is Super flower Leadex II gold or EVGA G3 better?
> Super flower Leadex II plat or EVGA P3 better?


The G3 and the Leadex II gold are the same unit
And there is no P3.


----------



## AuraNova

May I have the honor of joining this illustrious club?












(Am I the first 650W G3 to join as well?)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AuraNova*
> 
> May I have the honor of joining this illustrious club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Am I the first 650W G3 to join as well?)


Added and yes you are the first G3 650 watt owner in the club.


----------



## AuraNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Added and yes you are the first G3 650 watt owner in the club.


Sweet. Thank you very much.

Now to await the rest of my parts so I can finally get this entire build together.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The G3 and the Leadex II gold are the same unit
> And there is no P3.


sorry my bad. evga p2 isnt based on leadex II platinum right? is based of Leadex I?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> sorry my bad. evga p2 isnt based on leadex II platinum right? is based of Leadex I?


The P2 is based on the Leadex I yes
And no its not better then the Leadex II because of the higher 80 plus rating.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The P2 is based on the Leadex I yes
> And no its not better then the Leadex II because of the higher 80 plus rating.


Thank you so much for everything, i really do appreciate you explaining everything to me. Have a nice day







Rep+


----------



## Quickman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperBettaFish*
> 
> ]I have the following PSUs, G2 750w, 850w, 1050w, 1200w, and G3 850w, 650w, and P2 650w. The G3 650w is by far the quietest. G2 750w is the loudest but unfortunately it is a PSU I used in a main workstation. Eco mode is off for all of them.


I have the G3 550W and I've only been running it for two days and the fan is super quiet with eco mode off. I can't speak to what this fan is like when it speeds up since I'm running this machine on integrated graphics so I won't come close to getting this fan to speed up ever. If there was a 450W Supernova G3 I would have grabbed that instead. I really like the option of turning the fan on or off. Still undecided if I should run eco mode on or off. I rather have the fan running all the time but I also want the fan to last so I'm wondering what to do. Maybe turn eco mode on in Winter. Turn eco mode off in Spring/Summer?

@shilka is there any reading material available that explains what the difference is between Leadex I and II?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickman*
> 
> @shilka is there any reading material available that explains what the difference is between Leadex I and II?


Jonnyguru has reviews on both the 750 and 1000 watt models so if you want details you can get them from there
As for eco mode turn it off and leave the fan always on as its so quiet you wont hear it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickman*
> 
> I have the G3 550W and I've only been running it for two days and the fan is super quiet with eco mode off. I can't speak to what this fan is like when it speeds up since I'm running this machine on integrated graphics so I won't come close to getting this fan to speed up ever. If there was a 450W Supernova G3 I would have grabbed that instead. I really like the option of turning the fan on or off. Still undecided if I should run eco mode on or off. I rather have the fan running all the time but I also want the fan to last so I'm wondering what to do. Maybe turn eco mode on in Winter. Turn eco mode off in Spring/Summer?
> 
> @shilka is there any reading material available that explains what the difference is between Leadex I and II?


You hardly even need a fan in your PSU, so it would be best to have ECO Mode on. It would be much different if your power consumption weren't so extremely low.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> As for eco mode turn it off and leave the fan always on as its so quiet you wont hear it.


True I have two 550W G2's and I can not hear anything from them when the PC's are switched on and running.

These are so quiet that my dog's fart in another room and I can hear it easily but no sound comes from the 550W G2's







.


----------



## EyeChoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Jonnyguru has reviews on both the 750 and 1000 watt models so if you want details you can get them from there
> As for eco mode turn it off and leave the fan always on as its so quiet you wont hear it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You hardly even need a fan in your PSU, so it would be best to have ECO Mode on. It would be much different if your power consumption weren't so extremely low.


my current specs is going to be 980ti msi lightning z170 hero z 7 6700k, 32gb ram, 960 pro samsung 512 gb, 650W seems to be enough, is there any reason to go for the 850W psu? besides the fact that it can future proof if im ever planning to go for sli 980ti.

cause i have 4 PCs at home, 2 of the pcs using 850W psu superflower gold, and the other 2 is superflower 650w gold and cougar 650w gold. these 2 PCs that use 650w seems to have motherboard broken down, both motherboard spoiled because of voltage, is it related at all having higher PSU is better. im from malaysia so many my electric current for my place isnt as stable, both motherboard z77pro asus and p67 msi was spoiled.


----------



## SuperBettaFish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> my current specs is going to be 980ti msi lightning z170 hero z 7 6700k, 32gb ram, 960 pro samsung 512 gb, 650W seems to be enough, is there any reason to go for the 850W psu? besides the fact that it can future proof if im ever planning to go for sli 980ti.
> 
> cause i have 4 PCs at home, 2 of the pcs using 850W psu superflower gold, and the other 2 is superflower 650w gold and cougar 650w gold. these 2 PCs that use 650w seems to have motherboard broken down, both motherboard spoiled because of voltage, is it related at all having higher PSU is better. im from malaysia so many my electric current for my place isnt as stable, both motherboard z77pro asus and p67 msi was spoiled.


If you have electricity problem, you need to have a UPS (http://searchdatacenter.techtarget.com/definition/uninterruptible-power-supply). A good 650w Gold unit is plenty for what you need.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> my current specs is going to be 980ti msi lightning z170 hero z 7 6700k, 32gb ram, 960 pro samsung 512 gb, 650W seems to be enough, is there any reason to go for the 850W psu? besides the fact that it can future proof if im ever planning to go for sli 980ti.
> 
> cause i have 4 PCs at home, 2 of the pcs using 850W psu superflower gold, and the other 2 is superflower 650w gold and cougar 650w gold. these 2 PCs that use 650w seems to have motherboard broken down, both motherboard spoiled because of voltage, is it related at all having higher PSU is better. im from malaysia so many my electric current for my place isnt as stable, both motherboard z77pro asus and p67 msi was spoiled.


850 watts is way overkill for any system with a single video card and and even 650 watt is as most systems with one video card dont use more then 350 watts max

Let me guess the system that died is the one with the Cougar PSU in it?
And if you have a Cougar PSU you need to get rid of it as its made by HEC or the kings of crap as i like to call them.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeChoose*
> 
> my current specs is going to be 980ti msi lightning z170 hero z 7 6700k, 32gb ram, 960 pro samsung 512 gb, 650W seems to be enough, is there any reason to go for the 850W psu? besides the fact that it can future proof if im ever planning to go for sli 980ti.
> 
> cause i have 4 PCs at home, 2 of the pcs using 850W psu superflower gold, and the other 2 is superflower 650w gold and cougar 650w gold. these 2 PCs that use 650w seems to have motherboard broken down, both motherboard spoiled because of voltage, is it related at all having higher PSU is better. im from malaysia so many my electric current for my place isnt as stable, both motherboard z77pro asus and p67 msi was spoiled.


In response to "seems to be enough", I should say that it's much more than enough; it's overkill. The only reason for getting overkill is if you want ECO Mode to keep the fan off at all times. Even then, I really doubt you'll hear the fan at its slowest speeds.

If you had two GTX 980 Ti's, the only reason for getting a high-end 850W PSU would be if you were overclocking the cards.

I noticed you keep specifying "gold". It seems to me that you may be mentioning it as though its an indication of the PSU's quality. It's not. There's no reliable way to judge the quality of any PSU, really. However, even so, specifying "gold" when you don't know much about the PSU can help those of us who know the PSU models to know which PSU you're talking about. 

If you have unstable power coming out of your wall outlet, then you need to stabilize it before it reaches the PSU. It doesn't matter what you buy for a PSU, unstable power coming out of the wall outlet will hurt the PSU and thus it will hurt the entire computer.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperBettaFish*
> 
> If you have electricity problem, you need to have a UPS (http://searchdatacenter.techtarget.com/definition/uninterruptible-power-supply). A good 650w Gold unit is plenty for what you need.


Why "Gold"? I'm only asking in case you are trying to say that all Gold PSUs are high-end.


----------



## shilka

There is a lot of crap out there with a gold rating slapped on
So no gold does not mean its good

Just look at the FSP Arum or the rebrands EVGA NEX aka G1 and the Bitfenix Fury
Or the Corsair RM1000 or the Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 1200

All of those are way below average quality yet have a gold rating slapped on.


----------



## TwoCables

The 80+ Certification labs don't test the PSU's quality or anything else. They just test its efficiency, and that's not a mark of quality or good ripple suppression or good voltage regulation, etc. It just means that the lab found the PSU to have a certain efficiency and out the door it goes to the retail stores.


----------



## CobraPlissken

Hi,
First of all, sry for not reading the entire thread on my smartphone.
Quick question, someone here using the alchemy 2.0 cable kit from bitfenix?
I got them now for some time but most annoying thing is the 24pin connector got some double cable pins and 1pin is missing. Thats why i dont see anyone with combs on a g2?

I really hate it because i bought the cable kit to improve the look of the cablemanagement, but it isnt as clean as i would like it to have, cas of the double cables on some pins...

Isnt it possible to sleeve both cables in one sleeve? Or why do they even need 2 cables if they end up in one pin again...
Im always looking at it and thinking to sell the whole combo or to replace it somehow...

Pic


----------



## shilka

The CableMod 24 pin cable is exactly the same as the Bitfenix so i have the same problem as you when it comes to using cable combs
I just gave up and let the extra cables hang outside of the comb.


----------



## silentLightning

Im a former owner of 1200p2 and 1300G2 they both were loud to my ears. Just sold them, The 1300G2 had a slight more whine to it. pretty sure it didn't come from the fan. Are they all the same far as noise? Looking at getting the 1000p2. if no difference I'll just go with 1200p2 and try to deaden the sound much as possible. The psu is my main an only noise problem.
Update: just got the Evga 1000p2 and is it ever quiet! Liking it a lot.


----------



## CobraPlissken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The CableMod 24 pin cable is exactly the same as the Bitfenix so i have the same problem as you when it comes to using cable combs
> I just gave up and let the extra cables hang outside of the comb.


Damn evga had only one job ;(.
I guess your not supposed to sleeve the double cables together in one sleeve.
Even then there is still one left out pin...


----------



## Mega Man

I think you need to learn psu specifications

The blank is from a old spec when pcs used -5vdc. Now they don't










Or possibly a ground


----------



## Arengeta

Finally received my EVGA SuperNova G3 550W. Ordering+shipping to my country took over a month. Damn that thing is loud when the fan starts spinning in eco mode... Never turns off after until reboot.
Thanks to shilka and TwoCables for answering all my annoying questions


----------



## Lass3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arengeta*
> 
> Finally received my EVGA SuperNova G3 550W. Ordering+shipping to my country took over a month. Damn that thing is loud when the fan starts spinning in eco mode... Never turns off after until reboot.
> Thanks to shilka and TwoCables for answering all my annoying questions


Sounds strange, your fan should start at 50% load meaning 275W, even at full load it should not be "loud" and it should stop spinning below 275W again

My 850W G2 is overkill for my setup, fan rarely spins up as a result and when it does it's on very low rpm


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Leave ECO mode off on the G3s, the fan ramps up out of no where when computer is idling. The fan profile is way too aggressive.


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lass3*
> 
> Sounds strange, your fan should start at 50% load meaning 275W, even at full load it should not be "loud" and it should stop spinning below 275W again
> 
> My 850W G2 is overkill for my setup, fan rarely spins up as a result and when it does it's on very low rpm


Well, not here... At night I could clearly hear the fan on it. D14 and Corsair ML120 were dead silent compared to G3. And the fan would not turn off till next reboot... Doubt my system runs close to 270W... Maybe 250W max.


----------



## Lass3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arengeta*
> 
> Well, not here... At night I could clearly hear the fan on it. D14 and Corsair ML120 were dead silent compared to G3. And the fan would not turn off till next reboot... Doubt my system runs close to 270W... Maybe 250W max.


Sorry I think it's 20% on the 550 G3









110W..


----------



## TwoCables

lol some ECO Mode. I think MrTOOSHORT is right: just leave it off.


----------



## shilka

Been thinking about moving over to a 650 watt P2 now that i dont have two video cards anymore
Really wish EVGA had a 550 watt P2 or T2 as i dont need more wattage then that

Moving to a lower wattage unit means slightly efficiency at lower loads which would save a fair bit of money because of the very high danish prices on power
Was thinking of moving to a 550 watt G3 but that means my cables cant reach anymore as the G3 is so much smaller, efficiency wise it would not be an upgrade

The P2 650 watt seems the best compromise between size wattage price and efficiency when there is no 550 watt P2 and T2
Am going to re-use my older 750 watt G2 in my second PC as that one needs a modern PSU

Have not heard anything about a P3 or T3 series but there is a new B3 series which i dont know anything about
OEM on the B3 is Super Flower and thats all i know.


----------



## Arengeta

A little update to my previous post... The fans do turn off with 15-30 minutes delay after the PC is back in idle mode.


----------



## Lass3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arengeta*
> 
> A little update to my previous post... The fans do turn off with 15-30 minutes delay after the PC is back in idle mode.


That's in ECO mode right?
What about the normal mode?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Been thinking about moving over to a 650 watt P2 now that i dont have two video cards anymore
> Really wish EVGA had a 550 watt P2 or T2 as i dont need more wattage then that
> 
> Moving to a lower wattage unit means slightly efficiency at lower loads which would save a fair bit of money because of the very high danish prices on power
> Was thinking of moving to a 550 watt G3 but that means my cables cant reach anymore as the G3 is so much smaller, efficiency wise it would not be an upgrade
> 
> The P2 650 watt seems the best compromise between size wattage price and efficiency when there is no 550 watt P2 and T2
> Am going to re-use my older 750 watt G2 in my second PC as that one needs a modern PSU
> 
> Have not heard anything about a P3 or T3 series but there is a new B3 series which i dont know anything about
> OEM on the B3 is Super Flower and thats all i know.


I have a P2 750 for my server and feels like a waste to use it on a ITX case with single 1080. I too am thinking of 550 PSU but not sure what to get. Right now using FD Integra Bronze. It is fine but cables suck.


----------



## PureBlackFire

EVGA has done an absolutely miserable job on the fan profiles for this G3 series. at least on the G2's it was just the 1000 watt and higher that were noisy. the ECO mode fan profile is too aggressive on the G3's right from the 550 watt.


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lass3*
> 
> That's in ECO mode right?
> What about the normal mode?


Yes, with ECO mode on. I have actually not tested normal mode on how it works at idle and during load. I will do sooner or later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> EVGA has done an absolutely miserable job on the fan profiles for this G3 series. at least on the G2's it was just the 1000 watt and higher that were noisy. the ECO mode fan profile is too aggressive on the G3's right from the 550 watt.


It was the same with G2 550W model... That one had very aggressive fan profile too starting at 1100rpm.

Edit:
Tested eco mode - off. Now it was really silent and I could not hear my system running during load. It seems that with eco mode the fan setting is very aggressive compared to normal mode.


----------



## ondoy

my evga psu collection...


----------



## NetopyrMan

Guys please,

TL;DR (didnt read everything, only something) i spend last 8 weeks by searching for ideal psu to my system (case Lian-Li PC-O7Sx) coz of coil whine between vga and psu (seems like intel power saving bug)

which one of these models is *MOST SILENT*? I know all of these are a bit overkill for my pc (i7-6700k + 1x1080ti) coz i know from my experinces, that this system is able to run on stupidly cheap Fotron Hexa 400W (its just backup psu, coz my EVGA GQ is on RMA, due to buzzing on eco on for about 20minutes from cold start - btw, RMA`d twice, same issue on every piece, got 2 new, now it will be on last RMA and return of money ... just waiting to return of rest hw from RMA - vga for coil whine and broken DP port, MB for stupid CPU temp measure and voltage control - automaticly sets 1,4+V on cpu without asking ... no oc setings was done in bios, only xmp)

All of these are EVGA coz of full modularity and its price (i had corsair rm650x and rm750i, both are silent as hell but coz of coil whine cant objectively evaluate - bad VGA, returned to shop)

650 P2
750 G3 / G2
650 G3 / G2

shop prices in my country is +- similar and 750 G2 is the cheapest one







P2 and 750G3 are highest price but difference from 750g2 is about ridiculous $15


----------



## Lass3

My 850 G2 is very silent (and I'm picky). Very happy with it.

I have not tried G3, but I'm hearing noise complains. Maybe it's only in ECO mode tho.


----------



## shilka

I have seen a few say that the fan profile on the G3 is too aggressive in hybrid fan mode
The G2 and P2 are probably more quiet at least in hybrid fan mode.


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have seen a say that the fan profile on the G3 is too aggressive in hybrid fan mode
> The G2 and P2 are probably more quiet at least in hybrid fan mode.


Yeah, I can confirm that. In hybrid mode it spins up to 1200 RPM, while it stays dead silent in eco mode off during gaming and any other load (up to 250-300W approximately).


----------



## shilka

Hybrid mode and eco mode are the same thing its just that EVGA calls their hybrid fan mode eco mode
Its either in eco/hybrid mode or off

I have my G2 in off mode and i have never heard the fan
Cant even hear it when i am gaming as all the other fans are much louder

5x 140mm Ncotua fans and the two fans on my brand new EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 drown out the G2 fan by far.


----------



## NetopyrMan

so 750 G2 (when is cheapest of all) or any of G2/P2 series are "dead" silent at all and will be right choise?







(those prices are moving up and down every week and im still waiting for rest RMAed hw)


----------



## shilka

Dead silent depends alot on the person and how you hear things
Noise that dont bother me might bother you or vice versa

I dont hear my G2 but you might so there is really no such thing as dead silent to everyone.


----------



## NetopyrMan

thats acceptable answer


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Hybrid mode and eco mode are the same thing its just that EVGA calls their hybrid fan mode eco mode
> Its either in eco/hybrid mode or off
> 
> I have my G2 in off mode and i have never heard the fan
> Cant even hear it when i am gaming as all the other fans are much louder
> 
> 5x 140mm Ncotua fans and the two fans on my brand new EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 drown out the G2 fan by far.


I can't hear mine during load either but as soon as I quit the game the fan doesn't stop spinning and that's when I can clearly hear it. It spins for around 15-20 more minutes (or maybe even more, it seems to need to reach some temperature that was before it started or lower). That doesn't happen when the hybrid mode is off.


----------



## ondoy

can't hear anything on my, G3, P2 and previously G2.


----------



## NetopyrMan

forgot to ask, if you are using those psu in ECO on or off









coz 650GQ has issue with eco ON (coil whine as hell even without any load ... like 1 fan only and nothing more) for about 20 minutes from start ... when ECO is off, the fan is not loud, but even if its in case, its stil a bit hereable (over all other fans) ... problem is, that i dont want to know about him


----------



## shilka

I have mine in off mode and always had.


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I have mine in off mode and always had.


Do you have fan facing downwards or upwards?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arengeta*
> 
> Do you have fan facing downwards or upwards?


Downwards as my case has a PSU cover which means the PSU fan cant get air if i have it upwards.


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Downwards as my case has a PSU cover which means the PSU fan cant get air if i have it upwards.


But would you put it upwards if your case had open space over the PSU?


----------



## NetopyrMan

thanks for advices guys, i think 750 G2 is right choice (fan profile in eco)

https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/EVGA-SuperNOVA-750G2-and-850G2-Gold-Power-Supply-Review/Detailed-Look


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arengeta*
> 
> But would you put it upwards if your case had open space over the PSU?


I could but there is a fan grill in the bottom of the case with a filter so the case IS made for having a PSU facing downwards
i could have it facing upwards but then i would have problems with my cables as some of them cant reach what they need to if i flip the PSU.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arengeta*
> 
> But would you put it upwards if your case had open space over the PSU?


It is always best to let the PSU's intake fan pull in cooler air from outside the case if possible.


----------



## NetopyrMan

GOD DAMN ... i want to place psu on bottom of case but without cutting case itself and that 750 G2 is too HIGH









so i think best choice would be 650 P2 (even if its the brightest)

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-650-p2-power-supply,4364-5.html

"... its noise output is actually closer to that of a passive unit. If you want to build the quietest possible system and don't want to rely on a fanless supply, EVGA's SuperNOVA 650 P2 should be your choice."


----------



## shilka

You mean too long i assume?


----------



## NetopyrMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You mean too long i assume?


yes









(height its from my angle of view, coz it will stand with power plug on bottom)


----------



## ZealotKi11er

My Fractal Design Integra 650W is making some strange noises. What is a good replacement? 3770K + 1080 or Vega build. ITX so size matters.


----------



## pez

550 G2 would be perfectly fine for that setup, though not sure if the dimensions are too large for your case....which is...?


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> 550 G2 would be perfectly fine for that setup, though not sure if the dimensions are too large for your case....which is...?


Nano S. Is 750 G3 any good? Price is only 15$ more than 550


----------



## shilka

You should just be aware that the fan profile in hybrid fan mode on the G3 is rather aggressive.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You should just be aware that the fan profile in hybrid fan mode on the G3 is rather aggressive.


Is the fan that noise that bad? I do not run my current 750w p2 in eco.

Also do you have any other recommendations for 100-150 CAD?

http://www.ncix.com/category/power-supplies-ff-1066.htm


----------



## shilka

I dont own a G3 myself so i have no first hand knowledge of the G3 myself
But a lot of G3 owners report that the fan profile is too aggressive in hybrid mode

I would leave it in off mode or in other words have the fan always on.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Nano S. Is 750 G3 any good? Price is only 15$ more than 550


Do you have a reference/FE card? I've seen people use SFX PSUs in that case with a bracket and it does wonders for the airflow. However, SFX PSUs carry a higher price tag.

And outside of the fan complaints mentioned, the G3 seems like a great pick. It seems it's better to leave the fan in normal mode (hybrid mode set to off) and it's then perfectly fine.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Yes I have refence. Main reason I got it. I will get G3 then.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Got 750 G3.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Got 750 G3.


Very nice little rig







.


----------



## Jinto

Can anyone tell me if the pin outs for the Gold, Platinum and Titanium 850W PSU's are the same?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinto*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the pin outs for the Gold, Platinum and Titanium 850W PSU's are the same?


If you are talking about the G2/P2/T2 then yes they as far as i know are the same.


----------



## Jinto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If you are talking about the G2/P2/T2 then yes they as far as i know are the same.


Looking closer at the 24pin motherboard header I'm noticing that pins 15, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 10 all have double wires. Yikes, this is gonna be a headache to sleeve.


----------



## Psychomanteum

I own 3 EVGA PSU's all first rate models.

Here's my 850w G2


----------



## Mega Man

I am not disagreeing, but how do you "know"


----------



## Diablosbud

So I've been having some problems with my EVGA 550 G2. I'm running seven 140 mm fans overall (including CPU cooler), a 4.8 GHz i5-6600K at 1.45 V, and a 1420 MHz RX 480 at 1.3 V. Occasionally when under heavy load like gaming or running BOINC, the power supply will make a crackling noise (different from it's regular coil whine) and some time later hard shutdown. Is this too much power draw for the supply's capacity? I ordered a Seasonic SS-660XP2 as a replacement and I'm hoping that fixes the problem.


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> So I've been having some problems with my EVGA 550 G2. I'm running seven 140 mm fans overall (including CPU cooler), a 4.8 GHz i5-6600K at 1.45 V, and a 1420 MHz RX 480 at 1.3 V. Occasionally when under heavy load like gaming or running BOINC, the power supply will make a crackling noise (different from it's regular coil whine) and some time later hard shutdown. Is this too much power draw for the supply's capacity? I ordered a Seasonic SS-660XP2 as a replacement and I'm hoping that fixes the problem.


You are nowhere near it's limit. That is definitely not a power draw issue, might be some faulty hardware in your PSU or you're getting short circuit somewhere in your system.
That PSU can handle 650-700Watt power draw and your system during heavy stress test will draw only around 350-380Watts tops.


----------



## shilka

The shutdowns are not because of your PSU unless its broken
Your whole system draws around 250 watts which is 300 watts less then what tthe PSU is rated for

And why buy an old XP2 when there are newer and better options out there?


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The shutdowns are not because of your PSU unless its broken
> Your whole system draws around 250 watts which is 300 watts less then what tthe PSU is rated for
> 
> And why buy an old XP2 when there are newer and better options out there?


In HWiNFO64, when gaming with the overvolt, the max core power draw for the GPU is listed as 225 W. It's a significant overvolt, from 1.15 V to 1.3 V.

The 660XP2 had good reviews and the Seasonic Prime Platinum would have to ship from the US (I'm in Canada). There were a quite a few bad reviews on Newegg Canada for the 650 P2, so I'm being cautious about that model (especially because of my current problem).

Edit: Is it possible that I'm exceeding the power draw of the 8-pin and PCI-E slot for the GPU? I doubt it, though, since running [email protected] was only drawing 150 W on the GPU according to HWiNFO64 and it hard shutdown then (if that's even accurate at all).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> In HWiNFO64, when gaming with the overvolt, the max core power draw for the GPU is listed as 225 W. It's a significant overvolt, from 1.15 V to 1.3 V.
> 
> The 660XP2 had good reviews and the Seasonic Prime Platinum would have to ship from the US (I'm in Canada). There were a quite a few bad reviews on Newegg Canada for the 650 P2, so I'm being cautious about that model (especially because of my current problem).
> 
> Edit: Is it possible that I'm exceeding the power draw of the 8-pin and PCI-E slot for the GPU? I doubt it, though, since running [email protected] was only drawing 150 W on the GPU according to HWiNFO64 and it hard shutdown then (if that's even accurate at all).


I can find a lot of horrible reviews on Newegg Canada for the 660XP2 as well. I think the same can be said for any product, especially PSUs.

If all you do is look at customer reviews (especially if you look mostly at the negative customer reviews), then yeah you can end up thinking that most PSUs are crap. Look at professional reviews though.

For example: 650W P2 http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=446

660XP2 http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=326


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I can find a lot of horrible reviews on Newegg Canada for the 660XP2 as well. I think the same can be said for any product, especially PSUs.


True enough, but things like this scare me:

"As mentioned, thirteen months is when this power supply started experiencing issues and causing much frustration for us. At random times my wife's computer would power off suddenly mostly while playing her Sims 4 or Overwatch games (mainly Overwatch) that she used to be able to play without issue. The powering off would happen at other times randomly just watching Netflix, but this wasn't as often compared to when games were played."

Sounds an awful lot like my exact issue, except with the 650 P2 instead of my 550 G2.


----------



## TwoCables

If all you do is look at customer reviews (especially if you look mostly at the negative customer reviews), then yeah you can end up thinking that any PSU is bad. Look at professional reviews though.

For example: 650W P2 http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=446

660XP2 http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=326

Sometimes you have to question the power that's being fed to the PSU... I have seen the very best PSUs get killed here on OCN due to a bad wall outlet.

Bad customer reviews of very high-end PSUs like these aren't the normal experience with these PSUs. Consider how many bad reviews there are and compare that to how many have likely been purchased. If the PSUs were really that bad, don't you think we'd see a *lot* more bad reviews from customers?


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Sometimes you have to question the power that's being fed to the PSU... I have seen the very best PSUs get killed here on OCN due to a bad wall outlet.


I have considered this, but my Seasonic X650 and audio amplifiers (ones with fuses) worked for years on this outlet. Maybe I should get out an extension cable and try another outlet, but I'm doubtful the result would change.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> I have considered this, but my Seasonic X650 and audio amplifiers worked for years on this outlet. Maybe I should get out an extension cable and try another outlet, but I'm doubtful the result would change.


I'm really just referring to the other customers' experiences. I didn't mean to say that I think your outlet or electricity might be bad. Perhaps you got a lemon PSU.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> I'm really just referring to the other customers' experiences. I didn't mean to say that I think your outlet or electricity might be bad. Perhaps you got a lemon PSU.


It could potentially be, since I live in an old apartment (that also may or may not have aluminum wiring). I do suspect it's a lemon, so hopefully the new supply will fix the issue. Might give that extension cord a try, though. Can still cancel my order since it's a long weekend here.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> It could potentially be, since I live in an old apartment (that also may or may not have aluminum wiring). I do suspect it's a lemon, so hopefully the new supply will fix the issue. Might give that extension cord a try, though. Can still cancel my order since it's a long weekend here.


Yeah it's unfortunate that too many living spaces aren't designed with power use like this in mind. Most are designed for like, lamps and alarm clocks and little TVs, etc. Computers should really have a new dedicated power line from outside. heh (but who has enough money for that - I sure don't)


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah it's unfortunate that too many living spaces aren't designed with power use like this in mind. Most are designed for like, lamps and alarm clocks and little TVs, etc. Computers should really have a new dedicated power line from outside. heh (but who has enough money for that - I sure don't)


Trying a different outlet now, still makes that unsettling crackling noise under little load







. No shutdowns yet, but it's very intermittent (like a few times a week the past few weeks, a few a month before that).

Edit: Happened on an outlet on the other side of the room. Same circuit (breaker), but I'm not sure I want to run an extension cord all the way across my apartment to test. Will wait for the new PSU and see how that works out







.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Trying a different outlet now, still makes that unsettling crackling noise under little load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . No shutdowns yet, but it's very intermittent (like a few times a week the past few weeks, a few a month before that).


Damn, I wish I knew. Maybe it's a lemon that's beginning to rot. :/


----------



## Mega Man

The cracking is a giveaway. Something is wrong probably inside the psu, the only thing I can recommend is to check the wiring in the outlet HOWEVER if you are not comfortable with electricity, don't. There are many dangers, and only you can accept responsibility for this, also if it is an apt you may not legally be able to touch the wiring.

Again this is risky and you must take all liability. Esp if you don't own the property you may not be able to legally.

A simple test would be to jiggle the cord asst the outlet socket while under a load

Assuming what you said however it is probably the psu. That said you have imo an outliersuper flower makes some great psus.

Lastly if there is one thing I have learned, never trust armature reviews of stuff like electronics. Simply put, these people are not qualified to review anything... ie if it works, it's good, if not bad.... no clue about what makes a good one or not


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The cracking is a giveaway. Something is wrong probably inside the psu, the only thing I can recommend is to check the wiring in the outlet HOWEVER if you are not comfortable with electricity, don't. There are many dangers, and only you can accept responsibility for this, also if it is an apt you may not legally be able to touch the wiring.
> 
> Again this is risky and you must take all liability. Esp if you don't own the property you may not be able to legally.
> 
> A simple test would be to jiggle the cord asst the outlet socket while under a load
> 
> Assuming what you said however it is probably the psu. That said you have imo an outliersuper flower makes some great psus.
> 
> Lastly if there is one thing I have learned, never trust armature reviews of stuff like electronics. Simply put, these people are not qualified to review anything... ie if it works, it's good, if not bad.... no clue about what makes a good one or not


Yeah I don't own the property, nor do I trust myself touching it while it's live (I've done wiring before, but a long time ago). I agree that it's an outlier, just kind of disappointing. I usually use Jonnyguru and HardOCP when looking for supply reviews.


----------



## Mega Man

eh amateur, armature .... same difference... yay, cell phones


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> eh amateur, armature .... same difference... yay, cell phones


Well who do you suggest trusting then (serious question)?


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Well who do you suggest trusting then (serious question)?


He's saying you shouldn't go by customer reviews, and he's right. Most customer reviews are written by people who don't know much about PSUs and PSU-related things at all. So, bad reviews on PSUs by customers can usually be ignored. That is why I showed you those 2 reviews from JonnyGURU.com. I can find bad reviews on any PSU, but unless a professional reviewer finds problems with the same PSU, I'm not going to listen to those customers. Some people get lemons and act like their experience is normal for that PSU.

So "amateur reviewers" are the customers.


----------



## shilka

User made reviews are useless as they are not done by professionals with access to professional grade testing equipment
Users reviews cant be used to measure how good something is either as they dont know what they are talking about and in almost all cases of negative reviews got bad luck

Lots of time you see trash get 3 4 or even 5 stars on newegg and amazon as the buyers dont know a thing about what they are talking about and the reverse is true as well
Stop wasting time reading all that nonsense and read a proper review done by a professional tester that has access to professional grade testing equipment


----------



## TwoCables

And having access to such equipment is only half the battle; the person using it has to know how to properly test a PSU and review it (which includes opening it up and inspecting it and knowing what they are looking for and what they are looking *at*).


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> User made reviews are useless as they are not done by professionals with access to professional grade testing equipment
> Users reviews cant be used to measure how good something is either as they dont know what they are talking about and in almost all cases of negative reviews got bad luck
> 
> Lots of time you see trash get 3 4 or even 5 stars on newegg and amazon as the buyers dont know a thing about what they are talking about and the reverse is ture as well
> Stop wasting time reading all that nonsense and read a proper review done by a professional tester that has access to professional grade testing equipment


I read both Jonnyguru and HardOCP reviews before buying my G2. Now that I own a G2 and am having this problem, I decided it might be wise to check if the P2 has the same problem. Turns out that some defective P2s do, in fact, have crackling and hard shutdowns. I'm not really sure I want to chance going through this again, so I ordered a good Seasonic supply instead (which reviews scored as amazing, just like the G2).

The reason I read customer reviews, is that power supply reviewers get a single golden, cherry-picked supply. They don't get to experience failure rates like the customers. Of course I take customer reviews with a grain of salt, most of them are absolute idiots. I would still recommend EVGA supplies to other people, I just don't feel like chancing having the same issue twice.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> I read both Jonnyguru and HardOCP reviews before buying my G2. Now that I own a G2 and am having this problem, I decided it might be wise to check if the P2 has the same problem. Turns out that some defective P2s do, in fact, have crackling and hard shutdowns. I'm not really sure I want to chance going through this again, so I ordered a good Seasonic supply instead (which reviews scored as amazing, just like the G2).
> 
> The reason I read customer reviews, is that power supply reviewers get a single golden, cherry-picked supply. They don't get to experience failure rates like the customers. Of course I take customer reviews with a grain of salt, most of them are absolute idiots. I would still recommend EVGA supplies to other people, I just don't feel like chancing having the same issue twice.


No, reviewers get the same stuff we do. The difference with customers is, there are thousands upon thousands of us and thus thousands upon thousands of purchases. Even JonnyGURU.com has been sent lemons. However, they know when they are reviewing a lemon and they say so in the review. Most customers DON'T know it and so they review the PSU as though that's the way ALL of the PSUs are for that model.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, reviewers get the same stuff we do. The difference with customers is, there are thousands upon thousands of us and thus thousands upon thousands of purchases. Even JonnyGURU.com has been sent lemons. However, they know when they are reviewing a lemon and they say so in the review. Most customers DON'T know it and so they review the PSU as though that's the way ALL of the PSUs are for that model.


So basically, buying a power supply is Russian roulette. Every trigger pull is empty (good supply), until it isn't and someone gets screwed (bad supply). Not very reassuring, especially with a critical component that could fry my computer. Then when someone does get a lemon and mentions it, they were dumb, unlucky, or an outlier.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> So basically, buying a power supply is Russian roulette. Every trigger pull is empty (good supply), until it isn't and someone gets screwed (bad supply). Not very reassuring, especially with a critical component that could fry my computer. Then when someone does get a lemon and mentions it, they were dumb, unlucky, or an outlier.


You take a chance no matter *what* you buy. It's not just with PSUs or even any computer-related thing. Again, compare how many PSUs you can suppose are likely purchased and then go back and count how many bad reviews there are. What was it, like 30 bad reviews? Only ~30. The total number of reviews is not the total number of purchases. Most people just buy without reviewing. Most people only write a review if they are experiencing a problem.

I almost took a job working as tech support for the iPhone. I began the 3-week training and all was fine for me until the second week when the trainer told us that when we start taking calls, we will only be handling complaints and so it will seem as though the iPhone has nothing but probems and like 100% of the customers are unhappy with it for one reason or another. They said the reality is that we are only hearing from a very tiny fraction of a percentage of the total number of customers who own an iPhone but we're not hearing from them because their iPhones are just fine.

You are MUCH more likely to see someone complaining about some problem with something they bought than you will of them praising it for not having any problems because most people (if not all) expect to have no problems, and so they're not going to say anything.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You take a chance no matter *what* you buy. It's not just with PSUs.


While that is true, people usually complain about defective products in other industries and the design/manufacturing issue is rectified. You guys are sweeping my issue under the rug, claiming I guess that I'm dumb (because I read customer reviews?), but it's a well documented issue.

https://forums.evga.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-1200-P2-emits-a-cracking-noise-m2452070.aspx
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/evga-1000-p2-psu-crackling-this-cant-be-normal-surely.18773677/
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?81440-When-overclocking-5960RVE-EVGA-power-supply-emits-a-cracking-noise!-Please-Help!
http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13120

Maybe this is a normal flaw, I've read of other supplies having this issue. But including the Newegg review, that's six from quick searches. I realize it's uncommon, but for many people this is thousands of dollars on the line and the cost of a platinum supply to boot.


----------



## TwoCables

Why don't we just wait to see what you get from the new PSU? This isn't getting us anywhere.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Why don't we just wait to see what you get from the new PSU? This isn't getting us anywhere.


I'm pretty positive it's the supply. Others report the same problem, all my power supply connections are inserted tightly, I've tried different outlets plugged directly into the wall, and I've tried flipping the switch on the supply. No other electrical devices in my room or other rooms are having issues. But I guess I can't prove that it's defective, so my tests are worthless.

By the way, it's hard shut off three times today. I'm not even sure I should be using it, since my other supply won't come for a week or so. My PC frying would just be the icing on the cake, between having to defend my case like I'm a sleezy lawyer on the forums and dealing with the constant shutdowns (corrupted my Diablo 2 save too, unfortunately, since it shut down when loading).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> eh amateur, armature .... same difference... yay, cell phones
> 
> 
> 
> Well who do you suggest trusting then (serious question)?
Click to expand...

see below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Well who do you suggest trusting then (serious question)?
> 
> 
> 
> He's saying you shouldn't go by customer reviews, and he's right. Most customer reviews are written by people who don't know much about PSUs and PSU-related things at all. So, bad reviews on PSUs by customers can usually be ignored. That is why I showed you those 2 reviews from JonnyGURU.com. I can find bad reviews on any PSU, but unless a professional reviewer finds problems with the same PSU, I'm not going to listen to those customers. Some people get lemons and act like their experience is normal for that PSU.
> 
> So "amateur reviewers" are the customers.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> User made reviews are useless as they are not done by professionals with access to professional grade testing equipment
> Users reviews cant be used to measure how good something is either as they dont know what they are talking about and in almost all cases of negative reviews got bad luck
> 
> Lots of time you see trash get 3 4 or even 5 stars on newegg and amazon as the buyers dont know a thing about what they are talking about and the reverse is true as well
> Stop wasting time reading all that nonsense and read a proper review done by a professional tester that has access to professional grade testing equipment


exactly, and this is true for pretty much every tech item.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> And having access to such equipment is only half the battle; the person using it has to know how to properly test a PSU and review it (which includes opening it up and inspecting it and knowing what they are looking for and what they are looking *at*).


very important, and protip. if the "reviewer" breaks out a 20 $ psu tester like this one

or ANY variation there of run away, run far away ( read : if it does not have a scope, dont listen to it )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> No, reviewers get the same stuff we do. The difference with customers is, there are thousands upon thousands of us and thus thousands upon thousands of purchases. Even JonnyGURU.com has been sent lemons. However, they know when they are reviewing a lemon and they say so in the review. Most customers DON'T know it and so they review the PSU as though that's the way ALL of the PSUs are for that model.
> 
> 
> 
> So basically, buying a power supply is Russian roulette. Every trigger pull is empty (good supply), until it isn't and someone gets screwed (bad supply). Not very reassuring, especially with a critical component that could fry my computer. Then when someone does get a lemon and mentions it, they were dumb, unlucky, or an outlier.
Click to expand...

they can, they also can not. but i would trust them over newegg every day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You take a chance no matter *what* you buy. It's not just with PSUs.
> 
> 
> 
> While that is true, people usually complain about defective products in other industries and the design/manufacturing issue is rectified. You guys are sweeping my issue under the rug, claiming I guess that I'm dumb (because I read customer reviews?), but it's a well documented issue.
> 
> https://forums.evga.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-1200-P2-emits-a-cracking-noise-m2452070.aspx
> https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/evga-1000-p2-psu-crackling-this-cant-be-normal-surely.18773677/
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?81440-When-overclocking-5960RVE-EVGA-power-supply-emits-a-cracking-noise!-Please-Help!
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13120
> 
> Maybe this is a normal flaw, I've read of other supplies having this issue. But including the Newegg review, that's six from quick searches. I realize it's uncommon, but for many people this is thousands of dollars on the line and the cost of a platinum supply to boot.
Click to expand...

can you please show me where we are sweeping anything under the rug? we have said it sounds like your psu. things happen, failures happen. ect. you got a bad one. is it still under warranty ?

now that said you have an outlier. it is not the normal. you dont have to get a pt/t2/g2/leadex we never said that, but we did reassure you it was an outlier. one of my leadex failed, i am in the process of getting it warrantied, ( not as easy as most, i have to get it back to china for this ) does it suck, yes, but they are still great psus with a great track record.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Why don't we just wait to see what you get from the new PSU? This isn't getting us anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty positive it's the supply. Others report the same problem, all my power supply connections are inserted tightly, I've tried different outlets plugged directly into the wall, and I've tried flipping the switch on the supply. No other electrical devices in my room or other rooms are having issues. But I guess I can't prove that it's defective, so my tests are worthless.
> 
> By the way, it's hard shut off three times today. I'm not even sure I should be using it, since my other supply won't come for a week or so. My PC frying would just be the icing on the cake, between having to defend my case like I'm a sleezy lawyer on the forums and dealing with the constant shutdowns (corrupted my Diablo 2 save too, unfortunately, since it shut down when loading).
Click to expand...

1 no you shouldnt. i am a huge fan of keeping spares. i wont tell you what i have in the house as spares. lets just leave it at i have at least 3.
2 yes anything you buy can be a bad one. the difference between quality and crap psus is it has not taken other things with it. the satiety circuits are doing their job, but just for the record, even good psus can from time to time take other things out with them
3 again you dont have to, nor are we making you defend anything, we are trying to help you


----------



## shilka

I bought a Ggiabyte GTX 1070 Xtreme earlier the year that was defective but not completely defective as it did sorta worked when it wanted to
Now i know it was bad luck and i dont all of sudden think every GTX 1070 or every Gigabyte product is going to be defective and that Gigabyte and the GTX 1070 cards are all rubbish

Only reason i went with a GTX 1080 instead was it got a $100 price drop while my RMA was going on and i got a refund instead of another GTX 1070
You said its russian roulette and you are right it is as there is ALWAYS a chance you can get something which is defective in some way other another

But the cases where the PSU will fry eveything are very very rare as they built with so many fail safes into them that it truly takes a lot for it to blow up
Unless you buy the cheapest el cheopo unit from Ebay or something then you are just asking for problems

It can and does happen but so can everything really so in the end all user reviews are is the people that got unlucky and since no one knows the total sales number you cant even use them to know the failure rate.

So in the end just because you got bad luck once does not mean you should not buy one again
For me it needs to be at least two times in a row and often more before i stop buying from that brand and only Asrock and Corsair has ever managed to get on my do not buy list.

Edit: Gigabyte is on the edge as i have had problems with two of their video cards in a row
Going to try something else and maybe i will try them again at some later time and if get a 3rd defective product from Gigabyte they are going to end up on the list as well

Point is dont give up on a whole brand or product line because you got unlucky once.


----------



## pez

User reviews for PSUs are probably good in the sense if you see a lot of people getting defective ones around time you plan on ordering, you can avoid a potentially bad batch. However, as others have said in here, if you go based on pro reviews, you're usually pretty set.


----------



## Mega Man

Define allot? 30?, 50? 1000?

You don't know how many is sold, to determine allot is the problem


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Define allot? 30?, 50? 1000?
> 
> You don't know how many is sold, to determine allot is the problem


I mean, I'm not trying to get into semantics, but if you notice a trend of Newegg having noticeably bad reviews, but Amazon does not, then maybe Newegg got a bad batch. I notice this quite a bit from the Mouse threads here. Since we were just talking about products in general and not just PSUs, I figured it was worth mentioning.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> While that is true, people usually complain about defective products in other industries and the design/manufacturing issue is rectified. You guys are sweeping my issue under the rug, claiming I guess that I'm dumb (because I read customer reviews?), but it's a well documented issue.
> 
> https://forums.evga.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-1200-P2-emits-a-cracking-noise-m2452070.aspx
> https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/evga-1000-p2-psu-crackling-this-cant-be-normal-surely.18773677/
> https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?81440-When-overclocking-5960RVE-EVGA-power-supply-emits-a-cracking-noise!-Please-Help!
> http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13120
> 
> Maybe this is a normal flaw, I've read of other supplies having this issue. But including the Newegg review, that's six from quick searches. I realize it's uncommon, but for many people this is thousands of dollars on the line and the cost of a platinum supply to boot.


Seems like 1 guy on 3 forums reporting the same issue.

All electronic devices can emit audible noise, even ones without inductors. As long as any part uses PWM it can especially emit audible noise. Brands don't matter as much but having sealed solid inductors and transformers does help to reduce the potential buzz. I went through 2 Seasonics G a brand people used to swear by and they both buzzed even just on idle, annoyingly audible to me. So I got the most similar wattage and rating Leadex as replacement instead, no issues, except I shook out of it a little piece of solder, yeah WTH, works fine so far for years though fanless all the way. Consumer PSUs, pick your poison really. Like any other consumer product you gotta rotate a few pieces sometimes before you get one without defects, this is not so bad for PSUs as long as you choose wisely or have lower quality demands but with monitors and mice kind of expect to return most of them before finding one that works as it should.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YOEL44*
> 
> Hello everyone in this forums, I'm new here and I have some doubts about a Super flower Leadex II gold 650W that I'm going to get in some days.
> 
> First of all, the lights in the modular connectors light up when there's a cable connected, is there a way of keeping them on without the modular cable in?
> 
> Do I have to take something into account when connecting the modular cables, apart from the explained into the manual?
> 
> I'm so sorry if this it's been asked before, but there are a bunch of post at this time and I can't read them all.
> Thanks in advance!!


About the lights I am not sure as I don't own one so don't want to comment... however to your next question if I understand it correctly

With the PSU and PC *OFF* you can plug in any of your PSU cables, u do not have to plug in cables that will not be used in your system. Also remember do not use PSU cables that are not the original cables or cables made specifically for your model.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *YOEL44*
> 
> Hello everyone in this forums, I'm new here and I have some doubts about a Super flower Leadex II gold 650W that I'm going to get in some days.
> 
> First of all, the lights in the modular connectors light up when there's a cable connected, is there a way of keeping them on without the modular cable in?
> 
> Do I have to take something into account when connecting the modular cables, apart from the explained into the manual?
> 
> I'm so sorry if this it's been asked before, but there are a bunch of post at this time and I can't read them all.
> Thanks in advance!!
> 
> 
> 
> About the lights I am not sure as I don't own one so don't want to comment... however to your next question if I understand it correctly
> 
> With the PSU and PC *OFF* you can plug in any of your PSU cables, u do not have to plug in cables that will not be used in your system. Also remember do not use PSU cables that are not the original cables or cables made specifically for your model.
Click to expand...

To expand the leds are easy. If you look at the connector that goes to the psu side it has a wire that comes out and goes back in to the psu, iirc it is shorting to ground but idr I know I tested it when I first got mine.

Either way, all you have to fyi is jump it out, if you can make your own cables it is easy. However imo it looks far better when you take off the connector and do it with an empty connector installed. Hope this helps


----------



## Rasmus0909

Hi all!
I have a SuperNova G3 550W in my Raijintek Styx case, and I'm struggling with my fan never going on eco mode. Ambient temps in my case is approx 50C right now in the summer. I have 3 Noctua NF S12 PWM for airflow; 2 in the top as intake blowing down on the GPU fans and 1 in the bottom as an intake as well. The rear fan spot is unoccupied as my CPU fan also blows in that direct.

It's super annoying and I've been considering going fanless or at least finding a PSU which cools based on load and not temperature.


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasmus0909*
> 
> Hi all!
> I have a SuperNova G3 550W in my Raijintek Styx case, and I'm struggling with my fan never going on eco mode. Ambient temps in my case is approx 50C right now in the summer. I have 3 Noctua NF S12 PWM for airflow; 2 in the top as intake blowing down on the GPU fans and 1 in the bottom as an intake as well. The rear fan spot is unoccupied as my CPU fan also blows in that direct.
> 
> It's super annoying and I've been considering going fanless or at least finding a PSU which cools based on load and not temperature.


>50C isn't great for a psu under load, you should really do something about your case airflow.

Are all your case fans intaking air, because that's how it sounds. Could you maybe share a picture?


----------



## Rasmus0909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> >50C isn't great for a psu under load, you should really do something about your case airflow.
> 
> Are all your case fans intaking air, because that's how it sounds. Could you maybe share a picture?


Motherboard's 3 sensors are reporting 50C, 48C, 50C. I've attached a sketch of the setup.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasmus0909*
> 
> Motherboard's 3 sensors are reporting 50C, 48C, 50C. I've attached a sketch of the setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try moving the fan on your CPU cooler to push air trough the cooler towards the back and place the bottom intake S12A at the back as exhaust instead.

Edit: You might want to remove one or two of the pcie slot covers above the GPU too.


----------



## Rasmus0909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> Try moving the fan on your CPU cooler to push air trough the cooler towards the back and place the bottom intake S12A at the back as exhaust instead.
> 
> Edit: You might want to remove one or two of the pcie slot covers above the GPU too.


Do you think turning the bottom fan around will help in cooling? When I thought about turning it over, I came to the conclusion that it would only remove more potentially cool air from reaching the PSU.


----------



## TwoCables

Motherboard sensors aren't telling you what the air temperature is inside your case though. It's probably much lower than you think. 50°C is 122°F. So I really doubt it's 122°F inside your case. It's probably closer to ~80°F.


----------



## Rasmus0909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Motherboard sensors aren't telling you what the air temperature is inside your case though. It's probably much lower than you think. 50°C is 122°F. So I really doubt it's 122°F inside your case. It's probably closer to ~80°F.


Ah, I thought they were a good enough indicator. But with that fact in mind, I really can't fathom how my G3 units doesn't go below the 45C shut off temperature for the ECO mode. When I start my PC, the fan is off but after some light usage it starts and never stops untill I turn the unit off.

I tried having the side panel off my PC with an open window and that made it turn off.


----------



## shilka

Motherboard temps sensors have always been somewhat unreliable
My last motherboard had a temp sensor that would show my case to be 90c and it did not matter if it was in the middle of winter or summer it was always 90c

I would take those readings with a grain of salt unless all your sensors show temps that high.


----------



## Rasmus0909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Motherboard temps sensors have always been somewhat unreliable
> My last motherboard had a temp sensor that would show my case to be 90c and it did not matter if it was in the middle of winter or summer
> 
> I would take those readings with a grain of salt unless all your sensors show temps that high.


All my 3 temps show in the 50C ballpark. I also tried changing the fans according to Gilles suggestion. Will return with results!


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah, the G3's fan profile is waaaaaaaaay too aggressive. This isn't new to us anymore. It's best to just leave ECO Mode off. It's a damn good PSU, but I think the ECO Mode technology still has a *LOT* of growing up to do. Maybe some year in the future it'll be much better and more "intelligent" than this.


----------



## shilka

The Seasonic X did it right years ago so i dont know what went wrong with the G3
But yes the fan profile is too aggressive which makes it loud

Turn eco mode off.


----------



## TwoCables

My guess is, EVGA probably had some complaints with the previous ECO Mode not being aggressive enough.


----------



## Rasmus0909

It's evening now, and temps have dropped inside the case after doing what Gille suggested. Whether that's Gille's credit or just the fact that it's cooler now, I don't know.

Can I turn ECO mode off while the PC is running, and how will it alter the fan profile? I planned on getting a fanless PSU and giving my little brother the G3 unit for his new computer with much more airflow.


----------



## shilka

A fanless PSU is just going to dump all the heat its making into the rest of the case which means all your other fans are going to have to pick up the slack
So a fanless PSU will end up making making just as much if not MORE noise

Unless you have a case with very good airflow a fanless PSU is not something you want
As for the G3 turn off eco mode and just let the fan run all the time

If the noise bother you there is the older G2 which is more quiet.


----------



## Rasmus0909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A fanless PSU is just going to dump all the heat its making into the rest of the case which means all your other fans are going to have to pick up the slack
> So a fanless PSU will end up making making just as much if not MORE noise
> 
> Unless you have a case with very good airflow a fanless PSU is not something you want
> As for the G3 turn off eco mode and just let the fan run all the time
> 
> If the noise bother you there is the older G2 which is more quiet.


It feels pretty silly for me to go for an older model unit IMO. Albeit, I've not been very impressed with the acoustics of my G3. For a better idea of my airflow setup, you can have a look at my post a page or two back.


----------



## shilka

*


----------



## Gilles3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasmus0909*
> 
> It's evening now, and temps have dropped inside the case after doing what Gille suggested. Whether that's Gille's credit or just the fact that it's cooler now, I don't know.


Let's hope it worked.

To me it looked like all the "airblow" in your case was probably causing recirculation of warmer air.

Imo, its always good to try to get a smooth airflow "path" going in your case with as close to neutral pressure as possible, slightly positive is preferable if you want to keep dust out.


----------



## Rasmus0909

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Getting a fanless PSU is just going to make every other fan in your system work harder which means either higher temps or more noise so thats not a solution thats moving the problem somewhere else
> 
> Maybe you should consider either a unit with higher efficiency or a higher wattage unit
> Maybe the EVGA P2 or the T2 or the Seasonic Prime P and T as all those are more quiet.


But wouldn't making my Noctuas work harder be preferred over the fan on the G3 or am I missing something?


----------



## shilka

sory never mind wrong thread


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, the G3's fan profile is waaaaaaaaay too aggressive. This isn't new to us anymore. It's best to just leave ECO Mode off. It's a damn good PSU, but I think the ECO Mode technology still has a *LOT* of growing up to do. Maybe some year in the future it'll be much better and more "intelligent" than this.


What i dream of. All psus 100% fanless. Either using case (al) to dissipate heat our have a water block built in. If using the psu case then have a set standard for a water block. That you can water cool psu..

If built in, make it a solid copper tube, so near no chance of leak.

And all the wary up to 1600w....

I know i am dreaming


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Why don't we just wait to see what you get from the new PSU? This isn't getting us anywhere.


It turns out that it was the supply, been running BOINC for a few days straight with no shutdowns on the 660XP. I appreciate the help with troubleshooting by the way (everyone who helped, just too lazy to multi-quote







).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> It turns out that it was the supply, been running BOINC for a few days straight with no shutdowns on the 660XP. I appreciate the help with troubleshooting by the way (everyone who helped, just too lazy to multi-quote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Whew. That's a big relief. I'm happy that you can use your computer normally again!


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Whew. That's a big relief. I'm happy that you can use your computer normally again!


Sorry for being a bit of a dick earlier, I was just pretty stressed out about it.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Sorry for being a bit of a dick earlier, I was just pretty stressed out about it.


Aw thanks man. I accept your apology and I forgive you. To be honest, I don't remember any of it (I think this means it didn't bother me at all). So yeah, it's all good.


----------



## pez

About to look for a backup PSU soon to test out some parts before selling. Need a pretty reliable 450 or 550w, so I'm assuming the G2 and G3 are still considered pretty well-rated. The real question is, if the G2 is cheaper and easier to get than the G3, is it worth just going that route? Is there a better PSU possibly for my testing? I'd like it to be 450 or 550 for testing with a GPU (have a couple Tis and will be OC'ing some delidded Haswell i5s/i7s), and I'd like it to be full modular in the case I eventually just use it for a secondary build.


----------



## shilka

Almost everyone complain about the G3 being too loud due to the aggressive fan profile
So unless you dont care about noise you dont want a G3

If you want another option then the G2 there is the Bitfenix Whisper.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Almost everyone complain about the G3 being too loud due to the aggressive fan profile
> So unless you dont care about noise you dont want a G3
> 
> If you want another option then the G2 there is the Bitfenix Whisper.


450w option, full modular, and looks like it's dependable so that I can test my GPUs and CPUs. Always the man, shilka!


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Almost everyone complain about the G3 being too loud due to the aggressive fan profile
> So unless you dont care about noise you dont want a G3
> 
> If you want another option then the G2 there is the Bitfenix Whisper.


That is if you're using eco mode. In normal mode the PSU is silent.


----------



## iamjanco

Fyi, for your review: *EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 PSU Cabling Wiring Diagram and Pinouts*
Updated, added additional info and made corrections, bumped to v 0.5.1


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

1600 T2 incoming:



Always wanted one for the longest time...


----------



## Arizonian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1600 T2 incoming:
> 
> 
> 
> Always wanted one for the longest time...


Noice! Shows us pics after you get it in.









Your set for next 10 years.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1600 T2 incoming:
> 
> 
> 
> Always wanted one for the longest time...


Dang the Titanium!

Gratz, I lovvvvveeeee My g2 1600, I will never not have enough power!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1600 T2 incoming:
> 
> 
> 
> Always wanted one for the longest time...


Nicely. I want one, but then that turns into four. I would rather buy two TXps for that money.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1600 T2 incoming:
> 
> 
> 
> Always wanted one for the longest time...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nicely. I want one, but then that turns into four. I would rather buy two TXps for that money.
Click to expand...

I don't understand the power of your 3x rigs... so many TITAN X Pascal... BitCoin Mining rigs?


----------



## Cyber Locc

I would like to know why is the T2 so expensive, granted I got my G21600 on fire sale for 349 (they were a tad over 400 at the time, it was before the P2/T2s came out), that seems like an awfully high price to pay for titanium efficiency.

I guess it depends on the price of electricity where you live, I pay 10 cents a kilowatt, it would take me a lot of years to pay off that price difference.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1600 T2 incoming:
> 
> 
> 
> Always wanted one for the longest time...


Congrats!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I would like to know why is the T2 so expensive, granted I got my G21600 on fire sale for 349 (they were a tad over 400 at the time, it was before the P2/T2s came out), that seems like an awfully high price to pay for titanium efficiency.
> 
> I guess it depends on the price of electricity where you live, I pay 10 cents a kilowatt, it would take me a lot of years to pay off that price difference.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Yeah, the G3's fan profile is waaaaaaaaay too aggressive. This isn't new to us anymore. It's best to just leave ECO Mode off. It's a damn good PSU, but I think the ECO Mode technology still has a *LOT* of growing up to do. Maybe some year in the future it'll be much better and more "intelligent" than this.


Titanium has always had a premium.

Imo psus have been going far to high in prove but they are


----------



## JackCY

Titanium PSU as always crazy expensive so far. But I think the Seasonic Prime Titanium may have started to offer at better prices. You will gain more efficiency by not oversizing your PSU than with a Titanium spec. for average use.


----------



## SteelBox

Should I turn eco mode ON on my EVGA g2 850W? Will the fan ever turn on with this components:

CPU: R5 1600
GPU: ati 7770 (upgrade soon)
16gb ram

Fan reacts to heat or load?


----------



## shilka

Leave the eco mod off so that the fan is always on
Unless the noise bother you its better to have the fan always on

But why do you have an 850 watt PSU for a system that draws less then 250 watts?


----------



## SteelBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Leave the eco mod off so that the fan is always on
> Unless the noise bother you its better to have the fan always on
> 
> But why do you have an 850 watt PSU for a system that draws less then 250 watts?


I bought it in AMD FX era, I will buy Vega when it comes out.

I prefer silence. So if I turn eco mode will fan ever turn on with this components?


----------



## shilka

Leave eco mode off and only turn it on if the fan noise bother you
The fan is so quiet that unless you have every other fan in your system off and you stick your head right up to the PSU you wont hear the fan.


----------



## Gilles3000

I've heard some mentions of an aggressive fan curve on the G3's, looking at the 550W, just for a single CPU(Probably an OC'ed R5 1600) and haven't yet decided on the GPU, kind of waiting for either the mining craze to crash again or Vega if its a good value. So probably will be around 300W, worst case 400W-ish if gaming grade Vega turns out to be quite power hungry too.

The G3 seems like a steal considering its price and performance, would really be a shame if turns out to be too loud?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gilles3000*
> 
> I've heard some mentions of an aggressive fan curve on the G3's, looking at the 550W, just for a single CPU(Probably an OC'ed R5 1600) and haven't yet decided on the GPU, kind of waiting for either the mining craze to crash again or Vega if its a good value. So probably will be around 300W, worst case 400W-ish if gaming grade Vega turns out to be quite power hungry too.
> 
> The G3 seems like a steal considering its price and performance, would really be a shame if turns out to be too loud?


Almost everyone that buys one says its too loud when used in eco mode
Its more quiet if you have the eco mode off which means the fan is always on

It should be the other way around but its not.


----------



## TwoCables

The fan profile of the G3 is indeed being reported by others to be too aggressive. So, when it kicks in, it's too loud. The fan speed with ECO Mode off is so much lower that it's said to be very quiet.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

1600 T2 came in and here is some pics:





No hums, whines or anomalies of any sort, thank god.

And did I say behemoth, even the cord is girthtastic!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> 1600 T2 came in and here is some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No hums, whines or anomalies of any sort, thank god.
> 
> And did I say behemoth, even the cord is girthtastic!


Very nice, I wouldn't expect any hums or anything.

Yes the cords are massive, kind of sucks in some situations.


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

Thanks for all the congrats guys!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Very nice, I wouldn't expect any hums or anything.
> 
> Yes the cords are massive, kind of sucks in some situations.


Thanks.







Another thing that's alittle bothersome is if eco mode is off, seems like the fan goes full tilt and is very loud. Good thing eco on works pretty good, but the unit does get warm.

The 1000w G3, eco mode on, fan ramps up when ever it wants it seems even when just browsing the internet at idle. But eco mode off, the fan does it job very quietly. Unit stays cool.


----------



## GTxFinish

I'm interested in a silent PSU, as quiet as possible. I've read reviews on the EVGA 850T2 as having an incredibly quiet fan profile at all loads, which is what im leaning towards but I don't want to omit the possiblity of mGPU in the future as games start to leverage it in the coming 3-5 years. I imagine targeting 300w x 2 GPUs + heavily OC'd CPU would require I comfortably sit at 1kw or greater.

I originally started with the 1300G2 and agree with many others here, its incredibly loud for what it is. I switched to Seasonic PRIME 1200w Plat and 1000w titanium, both are dead silent HOWEVER the fan they chose has a low hum to it when it kicks on under load, which I could hear above everything else in my pc including all case fans and even the gpu fans. This noise is incredily annoying to me. I confirmed this noise by toggling the eco mode on the back and the noise is immediately apparent when the fan spins. Would have been great otherwise.

On to the point:

I see no reviews for the EVGA 1000T2 aside from johnnyguru who doesn't seem to do noise / fan rpm tests. Can anyone comment on the fan profile for the 1000T2? Is it the same as the 850T2 ( < 26dB up to 850w load on 12v in a hotbox). I've gone through so many PSUs looking for the quietest one, im surprised not many people find it as an important quality. I settled on a corsair AX1200i as it absolutely was the quietest out of all of the ones i've tried, however it suffers from some serious random shutoffs that are rampant on forums, and I personally experienced it on 3 different refurbs. Stay away from the AX1200i's.

I'm looking for data on fan RPM and noise levels at different loads, but I would accept anecdotal evidence as well. Trying to not pull the trigger on the 1kw only to be dissatisfied with the noise level with 500w / 800w load and returning it for the 850T2.

Thanks!


----------



## MrTOOSHORT

If anyone knows...

When eco mode is off on the 1600 T2, does the fan run at about 1850rpm constantly? Does for mine and I want to know if that's normal. Eco mode on, the thing is silent. Fans spins lightly after a while when in load.


----------



## Martigane

Hi,

Since you tried so many power supplies, would it be a good idea to replace the fan of 1300G2 by a Noctua A14 for example?
It would then be necessary to make some analyze before/after to make sure temps are still in control, but at least you d get rid of the noise issue, potentially be able to use the Ultra Low Noise adaptor if temps are good.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrTOOSHORT*
> 
> If anyone knows...
> 
> When eco mode is off on the 1600 T2, does the fan run at about 1850rpm constantly? Does for mine and I want to know if that's normal. Eco mode on, the thing is silent. Fans spins lightly after a while when in load.


Iirc it is temp controlled if on. But idr clearly, sorry for that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martigane*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Since you tried so many power supplies, would it be a good idea to replace the fan of 1300G2 by a Noctua A14 for example?
> It would then be necessary to make some analyze before/after to make sure temps are still in control, but at least you d get rid of the noise issue, potentially be able to use the Ultra Low Noise adaptor if temps are good.


Personal pref.


----------



## JackCY

Fan is temp controlled on all Leadexes in all modes.


----------



## shilka

Looking at the JG review of new EVGA SuperNova B3 it looks like the B3 is some sort of Leadex variant
Added it to the thread title as its a Leadex variant

For a unit in that price range it has some pretty impressive voltage regulation and ripple suppression
Efficiency is not fantastic but it can reach 80 plus silver levels

All in all if you cant afford a G2 or a G3 the B3 looks like a pretty good option.

Edit: the name of this thread was too long so i had to shorten it


----------



## Mega Man

so quick update.

i had to return my ( 1 of ) 1000w leadex plat. for repairs,

granted i had to ship back to china on one of our trips. i got it back. they ( the vendor is the super flower rep in china ) stated it was too full of dust. ( it wasnt if you shook it you could get it to star, but it would intermittently drop out or you could shake it to cause it. - it got to the point that i could not keep it on. ) but either way i got a refurbished unit ( from 2017 judging from the serial )

so... yay, easy, painless, in china for anyone one needing to return it


----------



## pez

Hey Guys,

I'm thinking of going back to an ATX case and I want to go back to an ATX PSU. The secondary rig will get transplanted into the NCASE I currently have, but I'm thinking I want to use the G2 550 from it.

Do you think that will be up to snuff for my OC'ed Titan X, OC'ed i7, 3 fans, 2 SSDs, 1-2HDDs and maybe an NVME drive or two down the line? I'm thinking that 600-650 may be more appropriate, but I'm not at my system to fully stress it and check my UPS for actual power draw.


----------



## TwoCables

Absolutely. The +12V capacity is only 50.4W less on the G2.


----------



## pez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> Absolutely. The +12V capacity is only 50.4W less on the G2.


Thanks!

I'm gonna stress my system this weekend to see what I'm drawing from the UPS. I want to say it was somewhere around 400-420...and that was from the UPS (not calculating my efficiency).


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I'm gonna stress my system this weekend to see what I'm drawing from the UPS. I want to say it was somewhere around 400-420...and that was from the UPS (not calculating my efficiency).


Hey yeah, that sounds about right for your system. That would mean your computer is pulling roughly 360 to 380W.


----------



## shilka

The new EVGA SuperNova B3 series seemed too good to be true well turns out it is
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-450-b3-psu,5160-11.html



Spoiler: Quote from tomshardware



In the end, it may not matter because the 450 B3 has other, more serious problems. It looks like Super Flower made a huge mistake in its design, which poses a major safety risk. We noticed that the over-power protection triggering point is set way too high. Even under normal operating temperatures, one of the primary FETs in our store-bought sample, along with some other components, blew up. Either SF should set its OPP point much lower or use components able to handle higher amperage. We were also disturbed by the fact that, after the primary side shorted out, the PSU's fuse didn't blow. Every time we applied power, we saw sparks. Obviously, that's a fire hazard.

Of course, we notified EVGA of our findings, even though the company wasn't able to send a review sample before or after our mishap with the store-bought solution, stating it didn't have any to send. This looks suspicious to us, since plenty of online stores have them in stock. Seasonic recently started providing review samples through online stores to show it has nothing to hide. And after our trouble with EVGA, this approach is starting to look a lot better for transparency.

If the 450 B3 hadn't blown in a spectacular way, it would be one of the best PSUs in this category. But we are seriously troubled by its issue and EVGA's lack of a response when we probed for possible causes. Although the 450 B3 is solid and sells for a great price, we recommend being extra careful with this model until we can better explain why ours died on the bench. Maybe some day EVGA will follow Seasonic and offer reviewers samples through a retail channel to ensure that plain users have the same access to good hardware as the tech press. We'd like to confirm the whole batch of 450 B3s isn't bad, after all.



Until there is some sort of clarification if this is a design flaw on all of the B3´s or a batch flaw i would recommend everyone be very careful.


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Until there is some sort of clarification if this is a design flaw on all of the B3´s or a batch flaw i would recommend everyone be very careful.


Lucky I stuck with my older 550W G2s







.

You won't believe this but I am actually running a G2 550W with a spare Asus B350-F Strix motherboard, R5 1600 CPU, 5 - Sata Hard Drives, BD-R optical drive and an MSI 8GB RX470 video card.

In fact this little PSU sits in a case no more than a meter away from my head and it's as quiet as it was, running one of my now ancient i7-5775C setups. YOU were right about the power usage of the latest hardware, it's almost miniscule when you compare the older gear developed and sold yesteryear.

I actually bought a brand new 750W Seasonic Titanium Prime, which shall be kept in it's box until this little G2 EVGA unit dies in the foreseeable future.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> Lucky I stuck with my older 550W G2s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You won't believe this but I am actually running a G2 550W with a spare Asus B350-F Strix motherboard, R5 1600 CPU, 5 - Sata Hard Drives, BD-R optical drive and an MSI 8GB RX470 video card.
> 
> In fact this little PSU sits in a case no more than a meter away from my head and it's as quiet as it was, running one of my now ancient i7-5775C setups. YOU were right about the power usage of the latest hardware, it's almost miniscule when you compare the older gear developed and sold yesteryear.
> 
> I actually bought a brand new 750W Seasonic Titanium Prime, which shall be kept in it's box until this little G2 EVGA unit dies in the foreseeable future.


I doubt it'll die. I think it'll only have to be replaced due to some new kind of technology to power computers.


----------



## JackCY

Well don't run a Vega or x299+Vega from a 450W PSU







That's one little nice cheap bomb. Not very efficient or quiet but nice otherwise before it blows. Still seems like not so hard thing to fix with a new revision and better testing that it actually adheres to specs. There is a reason sometimes I don't recommend anything below Gold eff. they tend to be too cheap to be good at times...


----------



## shilka

There is no 430 watt B3 you are thinking of the not named bronze rated EVGA series
The B3 series has a 450 watt so i assume thats what you meant

As for the statement that lower efficiency means lower quality thats not true as all as the older B2 series are very good
And the new Corsair CX series also pretty good considered how cheap they are

As far as i can tell the flaw of the B3 is there is no OPP at all so if you overload it instead of shutting off it just keeps on going untill it dies.


----------



## TwoCables

The quality of a PSU can't be determined by its 80+ Certification. The two *don't* go hand-in-hand. I know that it seems like they do, but they don't.


----------



## JackCY

Find me a Bronze or lower PSU that is better than the G2, G3, P2, T2, ... RMx, WhisperM, Prime, Focus, ... and costs less (not interested in some custom Delta Bronze insanity for $200







).
Overall the Gold+ PSUs are better models with more expensive design. I know the eff. doesn't define quality but when looking at a shop listing it's easy to filter out 99% of the garbage by simply selecting Gold+ and then looking for the few known good series.
The below Gold tend to be loud cheaper options with less features and so on.


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Find me a Bronze or lower PSU that is better than the G2, G3, P2, T2, ... RMx, WhisperM, Prime, Focus, ... and costs less (not interested in some custom Delta Bronze insanity for $200
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Overall the Gold+ PSUs are better models with more expensive design. I know the eff. doesn't define quality but when looking at a shop listing it's easy to filter out 99% of the garbage by simply selecting Gold+ and then looking for the few known good series.
> The below Gold tend to be loud cheaper options with less features and so on.


You are misunderstanding me. For example: the 750W B2 is a great example of a very good PSU that is Bronze certified and extremely affordable. Am I saying it's better than a high-end PSU? No. Did I ever say these kinds of PSUs that I'm talking about are *better*? No. I don't know where you got the idea that I'm saying I can find *BETTER* PSUs than some of the very high-end PSUs, but I never said that and I never even tried to. All I ever said is that there are some PSUs that are Gold certified and higher that suck.

In a nutshell, never judge a PSU by its 80+ Certification. Ever. Never teach others to. Ever. I don't care that most high-end PSUs are 80+ Gold certified or higher. I know that already. We don't look at that though because it doesn't matter. We look at whether the PSU is good. I don't care if it's 80+ White, Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, Titanium or frickin Unobtanium! It's not going to make me take notice. I'm not going to sort a list of PSUs by 80+ Gold or higher just to weed out "the bad PSUs". HELL NO! I know better than that and you should too! I look at what experts say about the PSUs. I look at the PSU that the manufacturer used to create the PSU. I judge the PSU for its quality and how well it performs. I couldn't care less about its efficiency and neither should you or anyone else - unless the electricity bill is a consideration. Period.


----------



## Mega Man

False

http://www.overclock.net/t/711542/on-efficiency

Just because currently There are or are not any examples, does not mean there will not or will be in the future.

One does not equal the other.

Tbh with the "green" cult imo you would be harder pressed to find a *new* designed psu that isnt 80+ but you can find many junk ones that are.

80+ can be junk.

Just because low end is low end means nothing ( diablotek, ect ) there are plenty of "high end" that are and *are* 80+


----------



## TwoCables

Which is *exactly* why the 80+ Certification is completely irrelevant when shopping around for PSUs.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/10/04/80_plus_irrelevant_to_you_when_buying_psu/


----------



## shilka

There are stuff out there like the Sama Titanium and the SilverStone Strider Titanium which are mediocre or worse despite their Titanium rating
Same goes for platinum so no picking higher efficiency does not mean you can no longer can find rubbish.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwoCables*
> 
> You are misunderstanding me. For example: the 750W B2 is a great example of a very good PSU that is Bronze certified and extremely affordable. Am I saying it's better than a high-end PSU? No. Did I ever say these kinds of PSUs that I'm talking about are *better*? No. I don't know where you got the idea that I'm saying I can find *BETTER* PSUs than some of the very high-end PSUs, but I never said that and I never even tried to. All I ever said is that there are some PSUs that are Gold certified and higher that suck.


Here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> As for the statement that lower efficiency means lower quality thats not true as all as the older B2 series are very good
> And the new Corsair CX series also pretty good considered how cheap they are
> 
> As far as i can tell the flaw of the B3 is there is no OPP at all so if you overload it instead of shutting off it just keeps on going untill it dies.


I use it for sorting in shops and most bronze PSUs I've seen are louder and hotter (which is a worse quality to me) than the ones I've listed above that are Gold or higher and decently affordable.
Sure there are decent lower eff. PSUs etc. at least lately but is it really worth saving $20-30 on a PSU and get a louder hotter one that doesn't even run semifanless? Nah, unless you're building a pure budget machine at which point it can also turn into why don't you connect your phone/tablet etc. to a TV/monitor instead as modern phones have tons of power for budget PC tasks of common people.

Yes the 2% whatever tiny eff. difference is meaningless almost and the heat should be about the same but most lower eff. PSUs have worse cooling, cut cost etc. and run hotter and louder as result. They could indeed fix that by using better heatsinks or less hot parts.


----------



## Elrick

Thought I would post this here because it is related to what type of Power Supply I was using.

Have a brand new G2 550W Evga PSU and it was running 100% fine with my R5 1600 with an Asus STRIX B350-F motherboard. Also have a brand new MSI 8GB RX470 connected up as well.

Anyway, when I switch on the PC I get after a while a coil-whine sounding like a high pitched buzzing, as I can recall it. All my minions have heard it and complained why I have my PC running with this type of sound which can only really be heard in the room when everything else is turned off.

My suspect was the MSI RX470 which was the first round that were sold here in Convict Town and I am one who has it. To stop the noise I could either put in another video card which I had plenty available but I decided to change the PSU. Instead I took out the Evga 550W PSU and replaced it with my spare Seasonic Titanium 750W model and low and behold the noise disappeared.

My only conclusion is that the Seasonic fixed the noise but maybe this current model is more tuned to the aggregate hardware needing this type of PSU. Who knows the exact source of the noise but now it's gone and the minions are settled and calm. Now they can back to the deafening sounds of Black Flag and Nightwish.


----------



## Mega Man

The problem with coil whine is anything can cause it, incoming power quality (good or bad, quality is not a great word for this, it can be characteristics. ) specific video cards, boards, Ad ins ect...


----------



## LostParticle

subscribed


----------



## SteelBox

I have Evga g2 850w. Sometimes I hear some low sound clicking form the psu, I think it is the fan. Let say my fan stop working, what would be the first sign? PSU overheats and shut down PC? No damage to other components because PSU has overheat protection?


----------



## shilka

A clicking sound is most often the relay switch
As long as its a single click there is nothing to worry about

And if the PSU overheats OTP will kick in and shut the PSU off before any damage is done, if it works that is.


----------



## SteelBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> A clicking sound is most often the relay switch
> As long as its a single click there is nothing to worry about
> 
> And if the PSU overheats OTP will kick in and shut the PSU off before any damage is done, if it works that is.


It is a single click, it was 2-3 times a day I think, but after some time it stopped. It is okay than. Thank you for answer


----------



## $ilent

Hey guys

I'm in need of a new Psu is think my pc keeps restarting boot loop from cold. I have a 479pk/1070. Was thinking I could get the G2 550w psu. Is it any good?


----------



## pez

A 450 would probably be enough for that setup, but the 550 and 450 are usually so close in price, you might as well get the 550.


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pez*
> 
> A 450 would probably be enough for that setup, but the 550 and 450 are usually so close in price, you might as well get the 550.


Is it any good that psu?


----------



## Mega Man

Afaik all the g2/t2 units are all superflower leadex and yes an excellent platform


----------



## kd5151

550w g2 user myself.


----------



## $ilent

I would be buying the G3 supernova 550. Still decent?


----------



## Mega Man

As a psu yes, they say the fan profile is far too aggressive, causing people to think it is loud


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As a psu yes, they say the fan profile is far too aggressive, causing people to think it is loud


Ah that's fine I don't mind noise. Think I need to replace my current psu gigabyte b600h. My pc struggles to get to Windows and more often than not just boot loops


----------



## JackCY

They are fine though personally I might prefer the RMx because it's quieter than G3 and G2.


----------



## TwoCables

No, the G3's fan profile is too aggressive.


----------



## TwoCables

The RM550x is very high-end as well, but is only £74.99: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-supply-cp9020090na

There's also the SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold for a lower price than the G2: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/bkp323/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx

You could even get the RM650x for less than the 550W G2 (according to PCPartPicker): https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/Rp8H99/corsair-power-supply-cp9020091na


----------



## $ilent

Thanks twocabs, but I already been out and bought the G3 lol I cant hear the fan over my normal fans


----------



## TwoCables

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *$ilent*
> 
> Thanks twocabs, but I already been out and bought the G3 lol I cant hear the fan over my normal fans


Wait until you maximize your power consumption.


----------



## shilka

Almost everyone that bought a G3 complain about it being too loud when used in hybrid fan mode
The problem is the fan curve has huge jumps in fan speeds which make it go from zero or low RPM to very high RPM speeds with no warning

Dont know why they did not make it more relaxed or programed more steps into it


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Almost everyone that bought a G3 complain about it being too loud when used in hybrid fan mode
> The problem is the fan curve has huge jumps in fan speeds which make it go from zero or low RPM to very high RPM speeds with no warning
> 
> Dont know why they did not make it more relaxed or programed more steps into it


Is it a decent psu though shilks? The g3 550w


----------



## shilka

Its very good it just has a horribly bad hybrid fan mode
Some are saying its actually more quiet if you just turn hybrid fan mode off and let the fan spin all the time


----------



## $ilent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its very good it just has a horribly bad hybrid fan mode
> Some are saying its actually more quiet if you just turn hybrid fan mode off and let the fan spin all the time


Eco mode on mine is off...I can't hear anything.


----------



## ih2try

I'm building a new rig with 8700k, Corsair H115i and Asus Strix GTX 1080Ti and some RGB lights. It's very hot where I live and with those components, the air inside the case might exceed 40*C even when everything is at idle. Some of the below psu's are semi-fanless, which means the fan will only start running when the psu is at certain load instead of a certain temp. I'm afraid that will make the psu shut itself down when it gets very hot inside the case but the load isn't high enough for the fan to run. Can you guys please tell me what you know about these PSU's and which one I should get:

- Super Flower Leadex 850W 80Plus Silver: This is the cheapest one. But I heard that it's semi fanless, so there's my fear.
- Super Flower Leadex II 850W 80Plus Gold: This seems to be a higher-end PSU from Super Flower Leadex. But I'm afraid that it's also semi fanless and it has its own type of cables, which can be hard to find compatible replacement/extension for.
- Corsair RM850X Modular 80Plus Gold: Also semi fanless.
- Seasonic Prime 850GD Active PFC 80Plus Gold: It seems to have two fan modes: semi-fanless and normal. Normal mode should keep it always cool. But i'm not sure about quality of Seasonic, I heard that only Platinum series and higher are worth buying.

Edit: 850w might be overkill for this build, but I want to have headroom for future upgrade/downgrade.


----------



## shilka

You dont need that much wattage unless you are going to have two video cards


----------



## Arengeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its very good it just has a horribly bad hybrid fan mode
> Some are saying its actually more quiet if you just turn hybrid fan mode off and let the fan spin all the time


Hybdrid mode off, watercooled R7 1700+GTX 980 both overclocked, cannot hear the fan on G3 even during stress tests (around 400W power draw). With hybrid mode on I can hear the fan start and stop every now and then and it's really loud (I believe well over 1200rpm)


----------



## Martigane

Hey ih2try

You don't need to worry about semi passive behavior: most of the time, it can be switched off, and you should not rely on your PSU to have cool air inside.

Since it's really hot ambient air temp, I suggest you get sufficient airflow in your case:
at least 2 fans as intake, and possibly no exhaust. This way, your case will have positive air pressure, which will help to cool down the PSU and air will go out through it even if PSU's fan is not spinning.

This will anyway be needed to cool your CPU/GPU. If you are affraid of your case temp, I d suggest not to have your H115i as intake or it will increase the case temp.

What I d do:
- Corsair H115i as exhaust on top of your case
- 2 fans as front intake
- 1/2 fans as bottom intake
- Optional: 1 side fan intake that will really help to cool your GPU. (My GTX1080 temps drop from 72 to 65C in game.)


----------



## ih2try

duplicated post.


----------



## ih2try

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martigane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ih2try*
> 
> I'm building a new rig with 8700k, Corsair H115i and Asus Strix GTX 1080Ti and some RGB lights. It's very hot where I live and with those components, the air inside the case might exceed 40*C even when everything is at idle. Some of the below psu's are semi-fanless, which means the fan will only start running when the psu is at certain load instead of a certain temp. I'm afraid that will make the psu shut itself down when it gets very hot inside the case but the load isn't high enough for the fan to run. Can you guys please tell me what you know about these PSU's and which one I should get:
> 
> - Super Flower Leadex 850W 80Plus Silver: This is the cheapest one. But I heard that it's semi fanless, so there's my fear.
> - Super Flower Leadex II 850W 80Plus Gold: This seems to be a higher-end PSU from Super Flower Leadex. But I'm afraid that it's also semi fanless and it has its own type of cables, which can be hard to find compatible replacement/extension for.
> - Corsair RM850X Modular 80Plus Gold: Also semi fanless.
> - Seasonic Prime 850GD Active PFC 80Plus Gold: It seems to have two fan modes: semi-fanless and normal. Normal mode should keep it always cool. But i'm not sure about quality of Seasonic, I heard that only Platinum series and higher are worth buying.
> 
> Edit: 850w might be overkill for this build, but I want to have headroom for future upgrade/downgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey ih2try
> 
> You don't need to worry about semi passive behavior: most of the time, it can be switched off, and you should not rely on your PSU to have cool air inside.
> 
> Since it's really hot ambient air temp, I suggest you get sufficient airflow in your case:
> at least 2 fans as intake, and possibly no exhaust. This way, your case will have positive air pressure, which will help to cool down the PSU and air will go out through it even if PSU's fan is not spinning.
> 
> This will anyway be needed to cool your CPU/GPU. If you are affraid of your case temp, I d suggest not to have your H115i as intake or it will increase the case temp.
> 
> What I d do:
> - Corsair H115i as exhaust on top of your case
> - 2 fans as front intake
> - 1/2 fans as bottom intake
> - Optional: 1 side fan intake that will really help to cool your GPU. (My GTX1080 temps drop from 72 to 65C in game.)
Click to expand...

Hey thank you for the advice. The psu's I mentioned are the only ones available where I live, so I'm interested in those models specifically. Since the 8700k runs very hot so I will have to put its cooling on top priority, that means the H115i's rad will be installed in the front with its two fans as intake. I want to prepare for the worst. That's why I'm looking for a psu that is able to cool itself down by having its fan spin constantly, taking air from the bottom of the case. I know that I can't switch off the semi-fanless feature on Corsair psu, not sure about the others. However, all these psu's seem to have their own disadvantages. I was hoping that people here can help me point out the pros and cons of these psu's so I may see which one is best for my needs in this order: run cool>power quality>have cables which are easier to find compatible extensions for.


----------



## Hydroplane

Got mine in the other day. Looking forward to trying it out soon.


----------



## spyshagg

Hi guys

where can I find an extra PCI-E PSU cable for my 2 year old superflower leadex 1200w ? It "only" came with 4


----------



## shilka

It should come with 8 cables so did you buy it used?


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> It should come with 8 cables so did you buy it used?


No, brand new two years ago.

It came with lots of cables, but only 4 x Dual PCI-E 6+2 pin cables.

I am desperatly trying to avoid using these:

https://mineshop.eu/cables/pci-splitter-cable-graphic-card-detail


----------



## shilka

If the cables are dual whats the problem?
Four dual cables is enough for 4 GPU´s


----------



## spyshagg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If the cables are dual whats the problem?
> Four dual cables is enough for 4 GPU´s


Correct. Need one more cable for 5.

I'm wondering how much wattage can the PSU provide on each plug. The standard cable splits into 2x150W 8pin connectors, and draws 300watts total from one plug. Could it handle 450watts?


----------



## shilka

As far as i know there are no aftermarket cables for the Leadex you can buy
Either stick with 4 GPU´s or get a new PSU


----------



## Kimir

Super flower sell some cables kit (sleeved), but it's all of the cables, CableMod have some as well (compatibility from EVGA to the new Leadex units)
https://www.caseking.de/kabel-und-adapter/interne-kabel/kabelsets?ckSuppliers=180&ckTab=0&sSort=2
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cases-and-modding/modding/sleeved-cables/sleeved-modular-psu-cables?ckSuppliers=578&ckTab=0&sSort=2
https://cablemod.com/compatibility/


----------



## shilka

The must have added compatibility since the last time i checked then


----------



## Kimir

Yeah, that's pricey... almost the price of a PSU lol
But it's quality product.


----------



## Mega Man

You can't buy the plugs, when you could, they were 10 per plug, they look awesome, with the leds (hope they do RGB with EXTERNAL control (universally wired) soon... but I doubt it...

But yay, proprietary


----------



## spyshagg

No one with a broken superflower/evga that could sell me one Pci-e cable?


----------



## shilka

I have a CableMod E series set where i no longer use the PCI-E cables as they are dual connectors where the EVGA cables uses only one connector per cable
But shipping from my country is going to cost you so much that its not going to be worth it


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Super flower sell some cables kit (sleeved), but it's all of the cables, CableMod have some as well (compatibility from EVGA to the new Leadex units)
> https://www.caseking.de/kabel-und-adapter/interne-kabel/kabelsets?ckSuppliers=180&ckTab=0&sSort=2
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cases-and-modding/modding/sleeved-cables/sleeved-modular-psu-cables?ckSuppliers=578&ckTab=0&sSort=2
> https://cablemod.com/compatibility/


Do you have on of this sets? I think i buy the black-red set in the future. But my biggest fear is a burning wire


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Do you have on of this sets? I think i buy the black-red set in the future. But my biggest fear is a burning wire


I don't, I have the EVGA sleeved ones.
I wouldn't worry with either cablemod and Super flower cables.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I don't, I have the EVGA sleeved ones.
> I wouldn't worry with either cablemod and Super flower cables.


Ok sounds good then^^ I have to save some cash and mybe i give myself a nice Little Christmas gift


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> Ok sounds good then^^ I have to save some cash and mybe i give myself a nice Little Christmas gift


Buy some cable combs or some strip ties if you are going to buy individually sleeved cables
Otherwise its going to be mess with wires crisscrossing all over each other and wires getting in the way

Individually sleeved cables is an idea that looks good but is a nightmare out in the real world and i have come to hate them because instead of having one big cable you got lots of smaller wires and they end up taking more space and needs more work then one big cable does

They are also worse then the stock cables as the caps on the cables have been removed


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> They are also worse then the stock cables as the caps on the cables have been removed


i dont get this part. They look like the normal one^^ Just singe wires and colors

I would only use two sets for the GPU, the main for the Motherboard and two for cpu on the board.
Combs is a must have xD


----------



## Mega Man

Super flower cables dont have caps on wires shilka


----------



## pozzallo

Would like to be added to owners club just brought EVGA Supernova 1600 watt t2


----------



## shilka

Added


----------



## pozzallo

thank you shilka


----------



## shilka

To all of the G3 owners in this club i ended up making a thread about the G3 noise problem
http://www.overclock.net/t/1646004/evga-supernova-g3-eco-mode-noise-problem

If anyone like to share your experience with the G3 please free to post it in that thread


----------



## Cyph3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Super flower cables dont have caps on wires shilka


My Leadex II has caps on the cables.


----------



## ih2try

I thought no one makes custom cables for these SF Leadex psu's anymore because of the universal proprietary connectors. Turns out plenty of them can be found on taobao:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.209.6a799437m2OHct&id=537705952800&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.259.6cc36282RU2d9G&id=538646733535&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.63.6cc36282RU2d9G&id=533238492852&ns=1&abbucket=7#detail


----------



## magicase

I currently own the EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2 and I'm having issues with the PC not starting up at random times. I isolated the problem to be a MB or PSU but no can't pinpoint the exact cause.

I'm just wondering if anyone knows if this psu is prone to failure.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

PSU either works all the time or not at all. Startup problems like that are more common with MBs.


----------



## Alan G

ZealotKi11er said:


> PSU either works all the time or not at all. Startup problems like that are more common with MBs.


But it could also be a bad PG signal sent from the PSU to the MoBo. I had one of these recently and it was intermittent until it finally failed altogether. Voltages from the PSU were all still in spec but it would not send a good PG signal.


----------



## LostParticle

LostParticle said:


> Will I have a problem if I will place my EVGA SuperNova 750 G2 in an upside down position? So, its fan will look at the floor. There will be space for it to breath because there will be like 30 cm distance from the floor. But will the PSU have any issues functioning this way?
> 
> Thank you.





TwoCables said:


> No, this is a very common mounting configuration. It seems most computer cases these days are designed to have the PSU mounted this way. This is because the fan is an intake, and that means the fan will be pulling in the cooler air from underneath the case.


All right, thank you! :thumb:

I will turn my chassis, Corsair Air 540, on its right side, so the PSU will face the floor. The reason for this is that I want to start using my Noctua NH-D15S again, and I want my motherboard to be in a horizontal position.


----------



## TwoCables

LostParticle said:


> All right, thank you! :thumb:
> 
> I will turn my chassis, Corsair Air 540, on its right side, so the PSU will face the floor. The reason for this is that I want to start using my Noctua NH-D15S again, and I want my motherboard to be in a horizontal position.


I'm not sure you have to do that, but hey I guess if it lets you relax...


----------



## cloppy007

Hi! I'm considering replacing my Antec TP550 Neo, and the Supernova 650W P2 or G3 is in my list (along with a couple of seasonics). How's coil whine with these super flower variants?


----------



## shilka

cloppy007 said:


> Hi! I'm considering replacing my Antec TP550 Neo, and the Supernova 650W P2 or G3 is in my list (along with a couple of seasonics). How's coil whine with these super flower variants?


Coil whine is rare on the Leadex and its rebrands 

As for the G3
http://www.overclock.net/forum/31-p...evga-supernova-g3-eco-mode-noise-problem.html

You are in all honesty better off with a Seasonic Foucs Plus or a Prime Ultra


----------



## cloppy007

shilka said:


> Coil whine is rare on the Leadex and its rebrands
> 
> As for the G3
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/31-p...evga-supernova-g3-eco-mode-noise-problem.html
> 
> You are in all honesty better off with a Seasonic Foucs Plus or a Prime Ultra


Thanks for replying and sharing your post, I'd be mad in your situation. The Focus Plus is the one I like the most, since the primes are really much more expensive.


----------



## sonic2911

Hi guys, I'm planing to build a new rig, rezen2 and 1070, I think I will pick the evga P2 650w, is it still a good choice? or any better than it out there? thanks


----------



## shilka

The Seasonic Foucs Plus and Prime Ultra series are both better and are often on sale so dont bother with a P2 unless its really cheap as there are much better options out there now


----------



## sonic2911

shilka said:


> The Seasonic Foucs Plus and Prime Ultra series are both better and are often on sale so dont bother with a P2 unless its really cheap as there are much better options out there now


yup, 
I got the Seasonic Prime Platinum 650w for $85 (not the ultra), happy with it


----------

