# [AquaComputer] Aquaero 6



## lemniscate

Quote:


> The new aquaero 6 is an improved version of the aquaero 5. Our main target was a dramatic increase of the available power on the outputs. Other than the aquaero 5 which works with an analog voltage control, this time we used very efficient switching controllers of the latest generation. The performance capability of the aquaero 5 is mainly limited by the temperature of the voltage regulators since they become pretty hot when you attach some stuff and use it with lower voltages. The aquaero 6 has no problems in this area and the maximum power is only limited by the current which means you can go to the limits without worrying about the temperatures. To make this possible we had to redesign everything around the voltage regulators with a special attention to the thermal design. This time we placed more than 250 elements on the PCB without changing its size. For the first time we use a multi-layer PCB for the aquaero.









Forum link: http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/


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## milkychipz

Awesome. I loved my 5 Pro and I'm pretty sure this is going to turn out amazing also!


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## amputate

mother of god...

I want it...


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## royalkilla408

I have the 5 XT and would love this. I wish I could have waited for the 6 because then I wouldn't have purchased the Poweradjust 2s.


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## AddictedGamer93

Those poor D5's.


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## Chunky_Chimp

Very nice, I figured it'd take a bit longer for AC to make something like this. If you pass by here, Shoggy, is there a pinout diagram for this since the connectors aren't labeled? I can probably safely guess, but guessing isn't always good enough.


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## lemniscate

it looks interesting... too bad they won't offer Aquaero 6 LT, since I don't really think I want the display.









btw it has been bugging me since a while, is the aquabus cable interchangeable with standard 4 pin PWM fan cables? they look equal to me.


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## TPE-331

Will be standing in line with cash in hand next month!


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## Killa Cam

Lemme know when its priced no more than $120


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## 47 Knucklehead

2 D5 pumps and 40 fans eh?

Now I just need a case big enough to hold 2800mm worth of radiator in "push/pull".


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## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Lemme know when its priced no more than $120


I believe that's impossible.. they say that this is like a premium version of the aquaero 5, so it should be priced more than aquaero 5.


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## FiveEYZ

/sigh just got Aquaero 5 LT, maybe it can be used as a slave under a Aquaero 6 XT?


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## SuprUsrStan

They just ran two D5 pumps dry without water!


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## axiumone

Son of a *****!!! I just bought the 5 for the primary purpose of controlling over 30 fans. Had I known I would have waited.


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## 161029

Do want.


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Those poor D5's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> They just ran two D5 pumps dry without water!


I already feel like a magician for doing that since I read similar things in other forums and on YouTube







Did it ever came to your mind that you can just add a drop of oil on the axis - no? Then you have learned something totally awesome today









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Very nice, I figured it'd take a bit longer for AC to make something like this. If you pass by here, Shoggy, is there a pinout diagram for this since the connectors aren't labeled? I can probably safely guess, but guessing isn't always good enough.


First line left to right: power, IR-LED, RGB-LED, USB, temperature sensor 1 to 8
Second line left to right: 12V PWM 1 + 2, fans 1 to 4, relay, flow sensor, aquabus low speed + high speed, tacho signal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Lemme know when its priced no more than $120


This will never happen. Would be about 90 Euro which is just the half of the current price...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiveEYZ*
> 
> /sigh just got Aquaero 5 LT, maybe it can be used as a slave under a Aquaero 6 XT?


You can still connect an aquaero 5 LT as a slave device to an aquaero 5 or 6. Both use pretty much the same firmware so also their features are the same.


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## jomama22

This is what I have been waiting for with my 27 delta pwm. Can not wait until this is released.


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## Hukkel

The AQ5 was already the best one out there. This makes it even better.


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## pcmonky

buying!


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## tx-jose

Will it use the same face plate as the 5? I have a black case and want the sleek sexy look.

If so take my money!!! $250 I would pay no problem for this!!


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## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> 2 D5 pumps and 40 fans eh?
> 
> Now I just need a case big enough to hold 2800mm worth of radiator in "push/pull".


A little Devil case fits a ton of fans.


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## Soxism

No Surprise they are not offering a LT version. Would be fantastic if they would due to the lower temps, let along the other features.. Guess i'll have to buy a Pro at double the price and remove the faceplate.


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> Will it use the same face plate as the 5? I have a black case and want the sleek sexy look.


It uses the same display and front so you can also use the cover for the aquaero 6.


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## Ryanboost

Has the need for a heatsink/water block been eliminated?

Just saw there will be an option for a water block. Good news.


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## axiumone

Shoggy, is there a particular reason there will not be an LT version? Thanks.


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## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Shoggy, is there a particular reason there will not be an LT version? Thanks.


Most likely due to cost, if you are willing to drop $150+ on it you would most likely want to spend the extra money for the screen version. Plus if you require all of that power I'm sure you can afford to pony up.


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## Mike813




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## WiSK

Really glad they moved the power socket to the top, so that you can use the squeeze-to-open molex plugs instead of pliers to get it out.

Also all 4 channels that can PWM is awesomesauce


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## Shogon

And I thought my Aquaero 5 was an awesome addition to my PC, now you guys bring out this beast. If my 5 ever dies I know what to look for next









Simply a sight to see all of that running at once


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## B NEGATIVE

I need this in my life,my XT is scared!


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## TheLawIX

I wish this made it in black, I'm still gonna grab this though.


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## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> I wish this made it in black, I'm still gonna grab this though.


You can grab a black faceplate for it.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17498/bus-327/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_XT_Aluminum_Faceplate_-_Black_53126_for_newest_revision_53125.html


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## Firehawk

I'd pay the money for it because it's a quality product. But for the money, they should put BOTH faceplates in the package. Additionally it ships with the silver faceplate, when most people will want the black and have to pay the extra cost.


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## ZealotKi11er

Unless you spend like 1000 to 1500 in case + cooling I don't see how 250 is worth it.


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## Xyxox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealotKi11er*
> 
> Unless you spend like 1000 to 1500 in case + cooling I don't see how 250 is worth it.


You only need so much for high performing computers. Everything else is just showing off.

And that's what OCN is all about.


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## pratesh

Never owned one, but that video sold it to me.


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## TheLawIX

Now all I need to find are PWM splitter that don't use an external molex/sata to power the fans! This baby is a monster!


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## dseg

Anyone know if this will also control a ridiculous amount of 3-pin voltage controlled fans? Or just PWMs?
I have Gentle Typhoon AP-15s which are not PWM. Would I be able to put just as many fans on a single channel?

I also believe those D5 pumps in the demo are not PWM controlled pumps, we will be able to control regular voltage D5 pumps and that many fans with no poweradjs? If so, how are the D5s hooked up to a PWM since they are powered by molex?


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axiumone*
> 
> Shoggy, is there a particular reason there will not be an LT version? Thanks.


An aquaero 6 LT would have no competitor besides it larger brothers the XT and PRO so we would just cut our own sales with it. We also do not want to have aquaero 5 users just easily upgrade their devices to the latest version. I know that sounds a bit rude now but that is the way how business works. We also want and have to make money. Well, there is a chance that one day we will also offer that as a LT variant but I guess a lot of people would be surprised about the possible price because there is one think to know: the aquaero 5 LT is something we earn almost no money with. With a realistic pricing it must be much more expensive but with the lower price we can keep away people from buying other controllers in this price section.

The Rest is just math. If someone buys an aquaero 5 LT it is very likely he will also buy some accessory or maybe will do an upgrade to another device one day. So in the end it is still possible to earn money with these "purchased" customers. Since you know now how the LT works (for us) you will also understand that this can not be adapted to the aquaero 6 LT. If we will ever offer it, it will cost more than a lot of people would expect because I think they calculate with the aquaero 5 LT which as said has its low price for a reason.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Anyone know if this will also control a ridiculous amount of 3-pin voltage controlled fans? Or just PWMs?
> I have Gentle Typhoon AP-15s which are not PWM. Would I be able to put just as many fans on a single channel?
> 
> I also believe those D5 pumps in the demo are not PWM controlled pumps, we will be able to control regular voltage D5 pumps and that many fans with no poweradjs? If so, how are the D5s hooked up to a PWM since they are powered by molex?


The aquaero 6 will handle that easily because you have a full voltage control for a current of up to 2,5A on all four channels. The fans in the video are already controlled with the voltage and the video does not even show the maximum. We could have also used 80 fans, but of course without the pumps then.


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## Hukkel

Don't forget you can't fit 80 of ANY fan on it. Of course fans with high wattage cannot be used in such large amounts. That is where the poweradjusts come in.


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## dseg

Thanks Shoggy, the D5 pumps look like regular voltage controlled pumps. Are these connected from a molex to PWM?
Is that just a modified connection?

So the AC 5 went from me having 4 GT AP15s on a channel to being able control 20 (reduced speed) with no heat issues and controlling my manual speed D5s with no poweradjs?

What is the different between a PWM fan and 3-pin if they both can have thier speed controlled. I know that PWM has the extra wire to tell the fan and the 3-pin fan just has its voltage reduced. Is there a difference with this controller?


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## Shoggy

These pumps have nothing to do with PWM in the video. They are just controlled by the voltage from the aquaero.

There will be no thermal problems when you attached a lot of stuff and slow it down.

A PWM fan is always powered with 12V and the PWM signal tells the electronic inside the fan how fast it should run. This kind of fan generates no real load since you can just forward the 12V from the PSU to the fan and you only have to tell it how fast it should run. Downside is that these fans quite often have only a limited range where you can control their speed while with the voltage control you can slow them down much more (will be different for each fan). A PWM fan can be also controlled by voltage. In this case you do not connect the PWM wire. Normally a PWM fan will run at full speed when there is no PWM signal. Because of this you can control it via the voltage too.

On the aquaero 6 you can have both: voltage control or PWM control.


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## 47 Knucklehead

Can you control BOTH regular 3-pin devices and PWM devices from the Aquaero 6 at the same time? ie a 3-pin pump, 6 3-pin fans and 3 PWM fans.


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## DaveLT

About fans not having lower speed in PWM
My AFB1212Hs have no limited range neither do my FFB1212VHE, they will spin at 550rpm minimum









They will do only 800rpm in voltage mode


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## dseg

Thanks Shoggy, what about the D5 pumps? Are those the manual speed controls? And how do they go from molex to the AC6?


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## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Thanks Shoggy, what about the D5 pumps? Are those the manual speed controls? And how do they go from molex to the AC6?


I would assume male molex to 3pin female then can pretty much control the rpm of the device.


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Can you control BOTH regular 3-pin devices and PWM devices from the Aquaero 6 at the same time? ie a 3-pin pump, 6 3-pin fans and 3 PWM fans.


Yes, of course you can mix them. Each fan channel can be configured to use voltage or PWM control. I hope it is clear that you can not mix voltage controlled and PWM controlled stuff on one channel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Thanks Shoggy, what about the D5 pumps? Are those the manual speed controls? And how do they go from molex to the AC6?


The pumps in the video use voltage control. You can connect them with this adapter:


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## dseg

Nice, will they be available for sale from FrozenCPU or performancePC by October or only AC?


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## MeanBruce

Both faceplates should be included in the box for $249.

Black faceplate an additional $15.99 plus shipping yup you guys are out to make money.

Does it come with that beautiful remote control? Will it run my H100i?









Ok, adding to the parts list, I've never seen anything like it before, and I thought Lamptrons were hot.


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## TheLawIX

Are there any PWM fan hubs with 8+ available splits? If we have to use a PWM splitter than requires a Molex, what's the point of purchasing a 30W per channel fan controller?


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> Are there any PWM fan hubs with 8+ available splits? If we have to use a PWM splitter than requires a Molex, what's the point of purchasing a 30W per channel fan controller?


Swiftech does an 8 fan PWM splitter.


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## jomama22

Power from molex. Though you could still use the a6 to control speed itself through pwm. I have 27 deltas that use .86 amps by themselves, so for me it would actually be nice to have an external molex.

ATM though, I control them all through speed fan anyway. The downside to that is they run as full blast on startup lol. So 27 delta 3700 rpm fans spinning up is quite the experience.


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## TheLawIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Swiftech does an 8 fan PWM splitter.


Yeah but that's powered by a separate molex, rendering the actual fan controller power useless.


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## jomama22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> Yeah but that's powered by a separate molex, rendering the actual fan controller power useless.


Hopefully aqua computer comes out with the one they are using in the video lol.

You can still control the fans speed on the a6 with a molex powered splitter.


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## MeanBruce

I added the Aquaero 6 and the Poweradjust 2 to my wishlist for October. Found some awesome photos here at OCN a fellow enthusiast with another M8 so at least I know the CaseLabs adjustable mounts will work perfectly, have to order one more set of those from Jim.

I'll try to use the pump features with the H100i, at least the power features and then next year either get into a 360mm radiator AIO, or just take the plunge, custom water is calling my name.

I don't want to pay extra for the black faceplate, but looks like there's no other choice.

Real reason for upgrading the controller? Improved chassis aesthetics. Guilty! This AquaComputer gear looks amazing.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/watercool-34_zps6b486cf6.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/db_file_img_480_800xauto_zpse0cbce45.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/aquacomputer_aquaero_5_xt_zps583f4e53.jpg.html


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## TheLawIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Hopefully aqua computer comes out with the one they are using in the video lol.
> 
> You can still control the fans speed on the a6 with a molex powered splitter.


They are using a 3 pin splitter in the video. I understand you can control the fans, but then why not just use the mobo PWM....


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## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Power from molex. Though you could still use the a6 to control speed itself through pwm. I have 27 deltas that use .86 amps by themselves, so for me it would actually be nice to have an external molex.
> 
> ATM though, I control them all through speed fan anyway. The downside to that is they run as full blast on startup lol. So 27 delta 3700 rpm fans spinning up is quite the experience.


I'm sure you would enjoy starting up all the deltas i have


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> Yeah but that's powered by a separate molex, rendering the actual fan controller power useless.


The Aquaero is about controlling the speed of the fans. It's not so important whether the 12V comes from one molex or another.

But if it's really important to you, then you can get some fan pins and rewire the 12V and ground wires and run all 4 wires off the fan header.


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## MeanBruce

Is Shoggy the rep still hanging around? Just wondering if the AquaComputing accessory black faceplates come included with black hardware so the customer has a choice of using the black with black OR black plate with contrasting chrome hardware on the front bezels (as shown in the photos above). Thanks man.


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Does it come with that beautiful remote control? Will it run my H100i?


The XT variant comes with the remote control. For the Pro you will have to buy it as accessory. I do not know how much power the pump of the H100i requires but normally it should be no problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> Hopefully aqua computer comes out with the one they are using in the video lol.


That was just a small laboratory PCB where we placed 20 3-pin plugs in a quick and dirty way. That will never see the light of day as a real product.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Just wondering if the AquaComputing accessory black faceplates come included with black hardware so the customer has a choice of using the black with black OR black plate with contrasting chrome hardware on the front bezels (as shown in the photos above). Thanks man.


The black faceplate is only an option and will not be supplied with the aquaero nor will be there an aquaero variant which directly comes in black.


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## MeanBruce

Thanks Shoggy, sorry for calling you Shaggy earlier, whoops.







I'm going to get the Aquaero 6 in October, I can drive to Performance-PCs for pick-up and save shipping costs. From what has been said about the new more efficient digital voltage regulators, there really is no need for the Poweradjuster Pro unit, not using only 5 Sanyo-Denki fans and one Aquacomputer D5 USB pump. Still may grab the faceplate for $20 and go from there, the three red LEDs lit up and mounted directly below the Aquaero 6 would look amazing.

From the looks of it the new Corsair 750D (650D successor) does not support a 360mm radiator on the roof, unless that ODD 5.25 bay is indeed fully removable, too early to tell, no real information is out yet, just some photos. If it is true then Corsair will most likely not produce a Hydro cooler with a 360mm radiator any time soon. So it's time for me to jump into real water.

This Aquacomputer 360mm pump-reservoir-radiator combination AirPlex modular unit seems perfect for someone moving from an H100i, just add two simple hoses, 4 fittings and a CPU block, maybe a flow meter, no more clutter than an AIO, and all that beautiful copper.























I'll change out the stainless steel with the black aluminum accessory side panels.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063_zpsb09cb740.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063_2_zps0754a41a.jpg.html

I'm loving this new brand Aquacomputer (Made in Germany), where have you been all my life?









It looks like you have to order the USB pump rad res combo directly from Aquacomputer, Performance PCs and Frozen CPU only carry the D5 vario sku.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Thanks Shoggy, sorry for calling you Shaggy earlier, whoops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to get the Aquaero 6 in October, I can drive to Performance-PCs for pick-up and save shipping costs. From what has been said about the new more efficient digital voltage regulators, there really is no need for the Poweradjuster Pro unit, not using only 5 Sanyo-Denki fans and one Aquacomputer D5 USB pump. Still may grab the faceplate for $20 and go from there, the three red LEDs lit up and mounted directly below the Aquaero 6 would look amazing.
> 
> From the looks of it the new Corsair 750D (650D successor) does not support a 360mm radiator on the roof, unless that ODD 5.25 bay is indeed fully removable, too early to tell, no real information is out yet, just some photos. If it is true then Corsair will most likely not produce a Hydro cooler with a 360mm radiator any time soon. So it's time for me to jump into real water.
> 
> This Aquacomputer 360mm pump-reservoir-radiator combination AirPlex modular unit seems perfect for someone moving from an H100i, just add two simple hoses, 4 fittings and a CPU block, maybe a flow meter, no more clutter than an AIO, and all that beautiful copper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll change out the stainless steel with the black aluminum accessory side panels.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063_zpsb09cb740.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063_2_zps0754a41a.jpg.html
> 
> *I'm loving this new brand* Aquacomputer (Made in Germany), where have you been all my life?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you have to order the USB pump rad res combo directly from Aquacomputer, Performance PCs and Frozen CPU only carry the D5 vario sku.


AC are not new by a longshot and that kit is awkward with the way it can be mounted,it can only be oriented a certain few ways.
You would be better served by buying the rad and having a separate Pump/Res.


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## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> AC are not new by a longshot and that kit is awkward with the way it can be mounted,it can only be oriented a certain few ways.
> You would be better served by buying the rad and having a separate Pump/Res.


AC is not new, yet I only discovered their gear just yesterday. Getting the fan controller this year, but I need to do plenty of reading before making a decision on approaching custom water. This kit seems simple enough for someone hesitant to jump into water, like me. If it can mount either pump-res forward or rear in my chassis then it will be fine. Maintenance may be more difficult and there has to be some drawback to this kit over a using a full sized reservoir, yet the simplicity is very appealing.

Found this vid on the Aquaero 5/Poweradjust Pro, trying to imagine it in anodized black instead of stainless steel with some black anodized mounting hardware. If there are not going to be any changes for the Poweradjust mounting plate in black for the Aquaero 6, then I'm going to go ahead and order it today, and try to match the hardware at a local Home Depot or paint the nickel coating black, before the new controller comes out next month.






I wish AquaComputer offered some nice black anodized mounting hardware included with the faceplates or separately.


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## X-Nine

Sven,

Will the waterblock for the A6 accommodate compression fittings this time? Having to buy and use barbs is not ideal.

Thanks.


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm loving this new brand Aquacomputer (Made in Germany), where have you been all my life?


We have been there for the last 12 years...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Will the waterblock for the A6 accommodate compression fittings this time?


So far I have no idea what the block will look like. It will be a full cover block because the block must be mounted to the holes on the edges. So other than the aquaero 5 block it should offer more than enough spacing between the threads and also distance to the screws from the cover.


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## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Sven,
> 
> Will the waterblock for the A6 accommodate compression fittings this time? Having to buy and use barbs is not ideal.
> 
> Thanks.


Hey Caselabs, will this AquaComputer rad-res-pump combo mount to the roof of an M8, without modification? If you know off the top of your head. The chassis dimension says it will, just not sure of where in that dimension the mounting holes will line up, if you know what I mean. Save me an email to Kevin. Thanks man.









http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15678/ex-rad-384/Aquacomputer_Airplex_Modularity_System_360_Radiator_Pump_Reservoir_Combo_-_Copper_Fins_-_D5_Pump_33040.html?tl=c95s161b200

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2978

Same kit that's in the pics above.


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## Falknir

Very nice, I would like to get one of these someday.


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## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Will the waterblock for the A6 accommodate compression fittings this time?
> 
> 
> 
> So far I have no idea what the block will look like. It will be a full cover block because the block must be mounted to the holes on the edges. So other than the aquaero 5 block it should offer more than enough spacing between the threads and also distance to the screws from the cover.
Click to expand...

If it's a full cover block, then I'm quite confident that compressions will fit as they were JUST BARELY not able to fit on the A5 block. So kudos to you and your team! Now then...need to find a buyer for my A5 so I can buy the A6


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## LeandroJVarini

Shoggy, Congratulations for the work, AC for me is always one of the references in WC parts, I take a doubt, you are sending to Brazil? I'm not really into the PPCS expect or receive FrozenCPU so I could send the release!


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## Shoggy

We can ship to almost everywhere. Standard price for shipments outside Europe is 34.90 Euro (no matter which size or weight).


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## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We can ship to almost everywhere. Standard price for shipments outside Europe is 34.90 Euro *(no matter which size or weight)*.


what? seriously? even if I buy tons of huge stuffs like radiators, reservoir, etc., the shipping is still 34.90 euro?


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> what? seriously? even if I buy tons of huge stuffs like radiators, reservoir, etc., the shipping is still 34.90 euro?


Yes, as a normal customer from outside Europe you always pay 34.90 Euro for the shipping costs. We have a special contract with the carrier.


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## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We can ship to almost everywhere. Standard price for shipments outside Europe is 34.90 Euro (no matter which size or weight).


This is wonderful news! changing my WC parts all to almost all parts of aquacomputer!!!!!


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## MeanBruce

Trying to confirm the distance between the red lines, the rear fan/chassis mounts and the end of the unit:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063rearenddimension_zps98dff54f.jpg.html

I only have 80mm distal or posterior to those mounts available in my chassis, and calculated exactly 80mm from the pieced information on FrozenCPU's web description. I hope that information is wrong or it will be too snug with cabling.









Ordering the Poweradjust faceplate today in black, just to get my feet wet with AquaComputer gear, its only $20, and can use the M3x6mm countersunk screws that arrive with nickel plating and match them in anodized black before the Aquaero 6 becomes available in October.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/db_file_img_480_800xauto_zpse0cbce45.jpg.html


----------



## Shoggy

The distance from the pumps edge to the first mounting holes for the radiators is 95 mm (+/- 1 mm as tolerance since the cover from the pump varies a bit).


----------



## Barefooter

Wow the Aquaero 6 looks like a HUGE improvement over the Aquaero 5!

My only gripe is it should come with a black face plate and make the silver one optional. Most people have black cases, few cases match up well with the silver.


----------



## TheLawIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Wow the Aquaero 6 looks like a HUGE improvement over the Aquaero 5!
> 
> My only gripe is it should come with a black face plate and make the silver one optional. Most people have black cases, few cases match up well with the silver.


They don't seem to care too much about the actual price of the product, after all, if you have enough to buy it, the face plate is cheap.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> They don't seem to care too much about the actual price of the product, after all, if you have enough to buy it, the face plate is cheap.


They should at least just throw it in >_>
Money is still money. Doesn't make sense that they will charge so much just for a piece of aluminium when you can at least use that money for extra fans


----------



## TheLawIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> They should at least just throw it in >_>
> Money is still money. Doesn't make sense that they will charge so much just for a piece of aluminium when you can at least use that money for extra fans


I totally agree, but it seems like they need the money from what I've gathered.


----------



## starships

Wish they would have improved the lcd, but a nice upgrade nonetheless. I will resist and wait for the Aquaero 7 for now.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> They don't seem to care too much about the actual price of the product, after all, if you have enough to buy it, the face plate is cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> They should at least just throw it in >_>
> Money is still money. Doesn't make sense that they will charge so much just for a piece of aluminium when you can at least use that money for extra fans
Click to expand...

It makes perfect sense. Their profit margin on a product like this is extremely small. Name one other company that has a controller that is even remotely similar. You can't. R&D, design, manufacturing, materials, marketing, employee salary, warranty, and profit all had to be factored in to the cost of a product.

This is an enthusiast grade product, not your average 30 dollar controller made of plastic.


----------



## provost

I rarely see one hardware rep commenting on/endorsing another hardware rep's profitability, unless they are both privy to each other's P&L via a distribution agreement, or joint promotion arrangement, etc.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I rarely see one hardware rep commenting on/endorsing another hardware rep's profitability, unless they are both privy to each other's P&L via a distribution agreement, or joint promotion arrangement, etc.


Or they both understand the process of manufacturing to market better than we do and jointly hold a great personal appreciation for the efficiency of that process and each others high quality hardware.

I think the price for the Aquaero 6 is justified, it is a unique product that no other manufacturer can currently offer. It's just at that cost level some people expect some little Ausstattung thrown in the box.









Thanks for the help Shoggy, looks like I'll be getting separate AquaComputer WC components since the pump-res-rad unit won't fit the roof of my case.

We have FrozenCPU, Performance-PCs and Sidewinder Computers over here in the states as your distributors.


----------



## seross69

Cant wait to see more on this!!!


----------



## carmas

What a great product. I was about to order the Aquaero 5 XT last week, I am glad I waited.


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyxox*
> 
> You only need so much for high performing computers. Everything else is just showing off.
> 
> And that's what OCN is all about.


Last time I checked OCN wasn't about being ignorant, having too much money and showcasing that to strangers on the internet.

The Aquaero 6 looks great but I can't justify buying once since I have no actual need for it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I rarely see one hardware rep commenting on/endorsing another hardware rep's profitability, unless they are both privy to each other's P&L via a distribution agreement, or joint promotion arrangement, etc.


XNine is an enthusiast first and foremost. He has good understanding and insight and posts as "one of us". He's in this thread because the Aquaero is a quality product that he uses is his personal system


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It makes perfect sense. Their profit margin on a product like this is extremely small. Name one other company that has a controller that is even remotely similar. You can't.


I'll do you one better and link to similar products:

http://www.hfx.at/at/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=16&Itemid=54
http://koolance.com/tms-205-software-thermal-interface-controller
http://koolance.com/tms-eb205-expansion-board

Of course, neither the TMS-205 nor the T-Balancers offer software or firmware that's as good as what Aquacomputer does, but fundamentally they're similar.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Of course, neither the TMS-205 nor the T-Balancers offer software or firmware that's as good as what Aquacomputer does, but fundamentally they're similar.


T-balancer is not a good example, and it's discontinued because the company went bust ages ago. Webshops shouldn't even be selling that old stock. The software was buggy and even doing simple things could lose you hours fiddling trying to get it right. It was a nice idea but no.

The Koolance 205 controller is a good example of a similar product. But it's a very restricted copy of the Aquaero: many similar features but limited in operation. Since it's 25$ more than the Aquaero 5 LT, you'd be hard pressed to justify buying one.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I rarely see one hardware rep commenting on/endorsing another hardware rep's profitability, unless they are both privy to each other's P&L via a distribution agreement, or joint promotion arrangement, etc.


I understand your thoughts here, but let me make one thing clear, I, nor CaseLabs have any affiliation with Aquacomputer that gains either of us any kind of monetary compensation. I am, however, a repeat customer (my own money) of Aquacomputer.

I have an Aquaero 5 Pro with Waterblock in my build. Been using it before I was a Rep for NZXT, been using it long before I became a rep for CaseLabs. In fact, I was one of the first people in the US to even own an Aquaero 5. In fact, I've carried that Aquaero 5 through 7 different cases, from Corsair, to NZXT, CaseLabs, Lian Li....

I am an enthusiast, modder, builder, and watercooler first and foremost. As having had worked in the industry, and similar ones to it, I can tell you that for a small company like Aquacomputer, their profit margin on something like this is very small. Probably in the 10-20 dollar range per unit. That's not a lot. In order to keep afloat and produce more products, EVERY company needs to make profits on their products.

This is why you've seen DangerDen and MIPS shut their doors. Not enough money coming in (which is a shame, because both companies were awesome.)

You have to understand that enthusiast grade products are generally manufactured by smaller companies, and those products usually carry a higher price tag as well. It's the same with Audio products, or cars, furniture, clothes. Once you actually have an Aquaero 5 in your hands, and you get to feel its build quality and how nice it is, that price tag suddenly vanishes.

And believe me, I know how much money is a concern to people. I'm a full time student, part time employee, and I've paid for my education out of my own pocket by working. But when it comes to PC tech, I make an exception and forego lunch for a week or two in order to get what I want.

Anyway, /end rant.. More love and harmony. And puppies. I love puppies.


----------



## provost

Fair enough








I have Aquaero 5 xT (some other stuff such as power adjus2s, flow sensors, etc)and one of your cases. The only thing that puts me off about aqua computer products is a lack of good user manual documentation. I have to go searching for answers on forums in German at times, especially if the set up involves using multiple monitoring devices from aqua computer. Your site however, in contrast, has user manual, quick turnaround on questions, and both are niche companies focused on the enthusiast market. May be Aqua computer can provide a streamlined comprehensive user guide with this new release that incorporates the reality that many of its customers use multiple aqua computer products which have to talk to each other via aqua bus , and a usb hub (depending on the set up), given all the usb connections for monitoring of each device.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Fair enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have Aquaero 5 xT (some other stuff such as power adjus2s, flow sensors, etc)and one of your cases. The only thing that puts me off about aqua computer products is a lack of good user manual documentation. I have to go searching for answers on forums in German at times, especially if the set up involves using multiple monitoring devices from aqua computer. Your site however, in contrast, has user manual, quick turnaround on questions, and both are niche companies focused on the enthusiast market. May be Aqua computer can provide a streamlined comprehensive user guide with this new release that incorporates the reality that many of its customers use multiple aqua computer products which have to talk to each other via aqua bus , and a usb hub (depending on the set up), given all the usb connections for monitoring of each device.


Oh, I'm in the same boat. I have little complaints about Aquacomputer myself. Inability to use the Aqualis horizontally, not spacing or tapping their ports to accommodate many compression fittings out there, lack of documentation. These are all things that I hope they work on correcting. I'm not trying to bad mouth them, every company has things they need to work on, these are just my personal miffs. I hope Shoggy can take some of these points as constructive criticism, because I believe if they work this stuff out, they will be bar none one of, if not the best WC accessory company out there.

Seriously, Shoggy. Horizontal Aqualis tube reservoirs. Vertical is too over-used. <3


----------



## DaveLT

I understand the pricing of Aquaeros fine.

I can't get over the pricing of an replacement aluminium sheet, might as well let people choose silver or black as not everyone likes a silver case.

Besides flat aluminium is cheap.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I understand the pricing of Aquaeros fine.
> 
> I can't get over the pricing of an replacement aluminium sheet, might as well let people choose silver or black as not everyone likes a silver case.
> 
> Besides flat aluminium is cheap.


they might as well offer matte white face plate.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Besides flat aluminium is cheap.


The raw material does not make the final price. That thing must be cut, deburred, holes must be chamfered, packing all them for transport to the company who does the anodizing, back here unpack all of them to engrave them and finally pack them again, add a label and then we have the finished product.

Besides the cutting and anodizing all steps are done manually for each single faceplate. This is not a mass product were we have a aquaero-faceplate-making-machine that throws out 100 finished plates per minute


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> They don't seem to care too much about the actual price of the product, after all, if you have enough to buy it, the face plate is cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> They should at least just throw it in >_>
> Money is still money. Doesn't make sense that they will charge so much just for a piece of aluminium when you can at least use that money for extra fans
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It makes perfect sense. Their profit margin on a product like this is extremely small. Name one other company that has a controller that is even remotely similar. You can't. R&D, design, manufacturing, materials, marketing, employee salary, warranty, and profit all had to be factored in to the cost of a product.
> 
> This is an enthusiast grade product, not your average 30 dollar controller made of plastic.
Click to expand...

Alphacool Heat master,Big NG fancontroller and,to a lesser extent,the CW611.

All of which are cheaper and less bug prone.

The bit that sets the AC unit apart and the only reason i use one is the Aquasuite.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> They don't seem to care too much about the actual price of the product, after all, if you have enough to buy it, the face plate is cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> They should at least just throw it in >_>
> Money is still money. Doesn't make sense that they will charge so much just for a piece of aluminium when you can at least use that money for extra fans
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It makes perfect sense. Their profit margin on a product like this is extremely small. Name one other company that has a controller that is even remotely similar. You can't. R&D, design, manufacturing, materials, marketing, employee salary, warranty, and profit all had to be factored in to the cost of a product.
> 
> This is an enthusiast grade product, not your average 30 dollar controller made of plastic.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alphacool Heat master,Big NG fancontroller and,to a lesser extent,the CW611.
> 
> All of which are cheaper and less bug prone.
> 
> The bit that sets the AC unit apart and the only reason i use one is the Aquasuite.
Click to expand...

None of them are as expandable or provide as many options as the Aquero itself, however.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> They don't seem to care too much about the actual price of the product, after all, if you have enough to buy it, the face plate is cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> They should at least just throw it in >_>
> Money is still money. Doesn't make sense that they will charge so much just for a piece of aluminium when you can at least use that money for extra fans
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It makes perfect sense. Their profit margin on a product like this is extremely small. Name one other company that has a controller that is even remotely similar. You can't. R&D, design, manufacturing, materials, marketing, employee salary, warranty, and profit all had to be factored in to the cost of a product.
> 
> This is an enthusiast grade product, not your average 30 dollar controller made of plastic.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alphacool Heat master,Big NG fancontroller and,to a lesser extent,the CW611.
> 
> All of which are cheaper and less bug prone.
> 
> The bit that sets the AC unit apart and the only reason i use one is the Aquasuite.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> None of them are as expandable or provide as many options as the Aquero itself, however.
Click to expand...

Not strictly true,the Alphacool unit has more options but at a cost of user friendliness.
The Aquasuite is the important part of the AC kit for me.


----------



## TheLawIX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The raw material does not make the final price. That thing must be cut, deburred, holes must be chamfered, packing all them for transport to the company who does the anodizing, back here unpack all of them to engrave them and finally pack them again, add a label and then we have the finished product.
> 
> Besides the cutting and anodizing all steps are done manually for each single faceplate. This is not a mass product were we have a aquaero-faceplate-making-machine that throws out 100 finished plates per minute


Seeing as most people will have to buy one to match their case anyway, why not offer custom engraving?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The raw material does not make the final price. That thing must be cut, deburred, holes must be chamfered, packing all them for transport to the company who does the anodizing, back here unpack all of them to engrave them and finally pack them again, add a label and then we have the finished product.
> 
> Besides the cutting and anodizing all steps are done manually for each single faceplate. This is not a mass product were we have a aquaero-faceplate-making-machine that throws out 100 finished plates per minute


Woohoo, you're getting me excited Shoggy. I have the Poweradjust black faceplate already shipping, can I order the black faceplate for the Aquaero 5 and use it for the Aquaero 6?

There seems to be an old and a new faceplate for the A5.

That engraving sounds sweet.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/bus-327_2_zpsbf026611.jpg.html


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> T-balancer is not a good example, and it's discontinued because the company went bust ages ago. Webshops shouldn't even be selling that old stock. The software was buggy and even doing simple things could lose you hours fiddling trying to get it right. It was a nice idea but no.
> 
> The Koolance 205 controller is a good example of a similar product. But it's a very restricted copy of the Aquaero: many similar features but limited in operation. Since it's 25$ more than the Aquaero 5 LT, you'd be hard pressed to justify buying one.


I did point out software and firmware problems in where you quoted, I'm aware of them.







He asked for examples of similar products so I provided the closest ones I could think of, even if they weren't as good. Simple as that.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLawIX*
> 
> Seeing as most people will have to buy one to match their case anyway, why not offer custom engraving?


Openly offering it might be a problem; I'm pretty sure it's already set so that if you contact them directly you can have it done as long as you're reasonable about it. Being flooded with custom requests might create a problem, though...


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The raw material does not make the final price. That thing must be cut, deburred, holes must be chamfered, packing all them for transport to the company who does the anodizing, back here unpack all of them to engrave them and finally pack them again, add a label and then we have the finished product.
> 
> Besides the cutting and anodizing all steps are done manually for each single faceplate. This is not a mass product were we have a aquaero-faceplate-making-machine that throws out 100 finished plates per minute
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woohoo, you're getting me excited Shoggy. I have the Poweradjust black faceplate already shipping, can I order the black faceplate for the Aquaero 5 and use it for the Aquaero 6?
> 
> There seems to be an old and a new faceplate for the A5.
> 
> That engraving sounds sweet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/bus-327_2_zpsbf026611.jpg.html
Click to expand...

You'll be able to. Order the updated faceplate for the A5. The PCB's are different, not the LCDs.


----------



## MeanBruce

My first AquaComputer part, it's not much but will look nice mounted in a 5.25 bay below the Aquaero 6 with some red LEDs and some black anodized countersunk screws.

Thanks Shoggy.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_2976_zps11fc26a9.jpg.html


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My first AquaComputer part, it's not much but will look nice mounted in a 5.25 bay below the Aquaero 6 with some red LEDs and some black anodized countersunk screws.
> 
> Thanks Shoggy.


Nice. Are you going to be using Poweradjusts?? Or is it just for looks??

I have a Aquaero 5 LT. Not because its cheaper, but because it doesnt have a screen. I like my rig to be nice and stealth without any flashy lights or stuff when I dont want it to be(thats why my LED light strips are ran through the LT). But does the new Aquaero 6, since you are no longer making the LT version, have the ability to turn the screen off easily??


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Nice. Are you going to be using Poweradjusts?? Or is it just for looks??


I have no idea how I'm going to assemble the water gear yet. I will need one poweradjust for the D5 or AquaComputer USB pump. I would hate to buy two more just for the LEDs, expensive freaking LEDs.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> But does the new Aquaero 6, since you are no longer making the LT version, have the ability to turn the screen off easily??


The screen can not be turned off completely. You can adjust the brightness and contrast to so it looks like off but you will still be able to see something. Well, you could also remove the display and sell it separately. I guess there are enough aquaero 5 LT users out there that want to upgrade their device.

By the way: the aquaero 6 is listed in the shop since yesterday









Yesterday...



Anyone needs an aquaero 0.02?







The photo shows some pretty old prototypes and first steps in the aquaero development. The boards are not fully populated because only specific functions have been tested. There are much more boards lying around here but these looked OK for the camera







Pretty much all protoype-boards are burned - learning by doing


----------



## DaveLT

If it's free we want them!








/just kidding but if it's free we sure do want them


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> By the way: the aquaero 6 is listed in the shop since yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday...


&#8230;.and Shoggy breaks into a song.









Aquaero TimeLine Photo

The Aquaero 6 is not available in shop yet here in the states, not at Performance-PCS or FrozenCPU. When can we expect them to arrive in the US and Canada?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/aquaero_generationen_zps8378d60f.jpg.html


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> By the way: the aquaero 6 is listed in the shop since yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday...
> 
> 
> 
> &#8230;.and Shoggy breaks into a song.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero TimeLine Photo
> 
> The Aquaero 6 is not available in shop yet here in the states, not at Performance-PCS or FrozenCPU. When can we expect them to arrive in the US and Canada?
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/aquaero_generationen_zps8378d60f.jpg.html
Click to expand...

Good luck, trying to get any of the better AC stuff here in the US is like trying to find a unicorn made of bacon. Aquatuning is where I got my A5.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The Aquaero 6 is not available in shop yet here in the states, not at Performance-PCS or FrozenCPU. When can we expect them to arrive in the US and Canada?


I can not tell because it depends on if and when these shops order aquaero 6 devices.


----------



## seross69

Any chance on getting a sneak peak at the terminal or header description on the AQ6 since it seems to have changed????


----------



## Terminus14

So not to hijack this thread or anything, but I'm new to all this and I need your help. I'm going to be doing my first build around the start of December and I'm going with a custom WC loop in Phantek's new Enthoo Primo. All in all, I'll have 17 fans (8 on a 120.4 rad, 6 on a 120.3 rad, 2 front intake, and 1 back exhaust) and 1 D5 pump, which one is yet to be determined. I'd like at _least_ the fans to all be PWM controlled. If I get the manual adjust D5 vario pump, then it has no need to hook up to a controller.

The fans are going to be Corsair's SP120 Quiet edition. What I'm needing to know is, do I need something like this Aquaero 6 or is it overkill for me? I'm wanting to run all these fans pretty damn slowly as to make everything nice and quiet. Also, the radiators I'll be using work particularly well at around with fans around the 600RPM mark. And what's this other product, the Poweradjust do exactly?

I understand everything else I'm going to be doing when building this computer and have solid reasons behind every part I've picked but now that I'm looking at controlling my fans, I'm completely lost.

I'm also looking at the Lamptron CW611 or the BitFenix Recon. What are your opinions on these products for my situation?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> So not to hijack this thread or anything, but I'm new to all this and I need your help. I'm going to be doing my first build around the start of December and I'm going with a custom WC loop in Phantek's new Enthoo Primo. All in all, I'll have 17 fans (8 on a 120.4 rad, 6 on a 120.3 rad, 2 front intake, and 1 back exhaust) and 1 D5 pump, which one is yet to be determined. I'd like at _least_ the fans to all be PWM controlled. If I get the manual adjust D5 vario pump, then it has no need to hook up to a controller.
> 
> The fans are going to be Corsair's SP120 Quiet edition. What I'm needing to know is, do I need something like this Aquaero 6 or is it overkill for me? I'm wanting to run all these fans pretty damn slowly as to make everything nice and quiet. Also, the radiators I'll be using work particularly well at around with fans around the 600RPM mark. And what's this other product, the Poweradjust do exactly?
> 
> I understand everything else I'm going to be doing when building this computer and have solid reasons behind every part I've picked but now that I'm looking at controlling my fans, I'm completely lost.
> 
> I'm also looking at the Lamptron CW611 or the BitFenix Recon. What are your opinions on these products for my situation?


Do you need something like the Aquaero 6 no but on the other hand do you need to water cool no. So it is not a matter of need it really is a matter of want.

with the Aquaero 6 you can control your fans and pumps based on temperature parameters you set.. You can tell the pumps to speed up when the CPU reaches a certain temp and the fans to speed up or slow down depending on the water temp or even delta t. it has pins for 12 temp sensors and 1 flow sensor on it. the poweradjust is for added options to the Aquaero 6 or 5. it can control up to 25 watts of fans or a pump and also has a input for temp and for flow. so this is an expansion..

it is an awesome piece of kit and you will enjoy playing with it and it can be used to keep you PC as cool and quiet as you want. they are cheaper ways to do this or you don't even have to control the speeds or watch temps. But there is nothing that dose the job this does better or has more options spend some time on the forum's reading up on the Aquaero controllers and also look at this to get more info. http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?1403-AQUAERO-5-Review-A-personal-look-at-the-new-AQ5-XT this is about the Aquaero 5 but they have the same options except the 6 is more powerful and has 4 PMW headers versus 1 on the 5. and the 6 can do 30 watts per fan header and the the 5 can do 18 watts give or take a little.

I hope this helped and did not confuse. I would recommend one if you can afford it..


----------



## MeanBruce

^^^^^ Great Advice.

AquaTuning is shipping them beginning October 3rd, good news.









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*


What gets me is that this thing can support *eighty* fans. I only intend on using *17 and one pump*. I can't imagine there are no other controllers out there that can satisfy my needs. I'm really tempted to get the Aquaero 6 but it just seems to be extreme overkill, even if it is enjoyable overkill







Perhaps, and I know this is true, I just don't understand the technicalities behind all of it well enough. What is it that makes the Aquaero so much better than the competition? For a user like me, who only wants control of 17 fans and a pump, what keeps me from selecting another controller? I feel I'd do the product a disservice by never using it to nearly its full potential.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> What gets me is that this thing can support *eighty* fans. I only intend on using *17 and one pump*. I can't imagine there are no other controllers out there that can satisfy my needs. I'm really tempted to get the Aquaero 6 but it just seems to be extreme overkill, even if it is enjoyable overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps, and I know this is true, I just don't understand the technicalities behind all of it well enough. What is it that makes the Aquaero so much better than the competition? For a user like me, who only wants control of 17 fans and a pump, what keeps me from selecting another controller? I feel I'd do the product a disservice by never using it to nearly its full potential.


nothing keeps you from selecting another controller, I answered your questions about what makes i better in my above Post. I also told you there was no reason to get it just like there is no reason to really ever water cool a computer... we do it. I gave you some links and told you to read and learn about it to make your decision. you don't even know enough about it now to ask a question other than do i need it. i have a lampton 50 watt per channel fan controller that has 4 channels. this will control twice the fans of the Aquaero but it is dumb and you set the fan speed and this is all. the Aquaero is a intelligent controller. and also if you take the time to look there is the Aquaero 5 LT, Pro, XT and the Aquaero 6 Pro and XT. it all comes down to what you want to do..

basically do you need it *no*
are they a reason to get it *yes and no*
do you need to learn more about this *yes*
it basically comes down to do you want a smart or dumb controller???? Do you want to set the fan and pump speed manually and just leave it or do you want these to vary depending on circumstances??

Actually you can control a 200 PMW fans with your motherboard if you know what your doing. and also can control a PMW pump with your motherboard if you know what your doing.

You don't have to have PMW fans to be quiet.

Now I have a question for you why are you going to use the Corsair's SP120 Quiet edition fans?? They are way overpriced and you can get a lot better and quieter fans for the same and less money!!! I have tested them and to me the only thing that sells these is the Cosair name and the colored rings.. and actually corsair did not make these fans they were bought from someone else.

I am sorry and hope this does not offend you but you need to learn a lot more about a lot of things before you build a water cooled PC. me and everyone on OCN is more than willing to help but not do it for you need to read and learn and help yourself!!!

I am not going to tell you that you need to buy something when really you have not stated you end goals of a fan controller other than quiet. ?? and I am not ever actually going to tell you to buy something I will tell you my opinion on things but this is all.


----------



## Terminus14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> .


First off, let me say that the condescension wasn't really necessary. But, that doesn't matter.

I'll admit that I didn't read your link. I got distracted by other things and it was left as an unread tab on my browser. I will certainly give it a read tomorrow, however. I absolutely agree that I need to learn more about controllers before I make a decision. Fortunately, I have about 2 months to decide.

I know you don't need PWM fans to be quiet. Just voltage controlled set to a low voltage/rpm would work. However, I have no desire to be setting things manually all the time.

I chose the SP120 for simple reasons, if not even a little petty. They look great and for my intended application, they will perform well. Pretty decent static pressure and nice and quiet. Performance differences were minimal with other fans I've seen them compared to so tack on the fact that I like how they look, they're a winner for me. If you think you could point me in the direction of some fans that you would recommend, I'll definitely take your suggestions into consideration.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terminus14*
> 
> First off, let me say that the condescension wasn't really necessary. But, that doesn't matter.


Sorry did not mean to have this it is how I write and I get in trouble all the time at work for the tone of my emails.

_However, I have no desire to be setting things manually all the time_.

If you dont want to set things manually all the time then a Aquaero is the way to go. you can start off basic with the Aquaero 5 LT and 1 Poweradjust for your pumps. if you want to start small and decide from their. This would be about a 100 dollar investment. then you would be able to set the parameters like when the CPU reaches this temp then to slowly ramp up the pump speed based on the temps of the CPU and have the fans run on minimum until water temp reaches a certain point then to slowly ramp up and back down based on temps. you can set it where the fans never get above 75% if you want or even 50% you will just have to play and see what suits your need best. ... Just an Idea of what you can do.

_I chose the SP120 for simple reasons, if not even a little petty. They look great and for my intended application, they will perform well. Pretty decent static pressure and nice and quiet. Performance differences were minimal with other fans I've seen them compared to so tack on the fact that I like how they look, they're a winner for me. If you think you could point me in the direction of some fans that you would recommend, I'll definitely take your suggestions into consideration._

That is a good enough reason on the fans is the looks. as long as you are aware of the facts about them. I see a lot of people buy certain items because of who it is made by and not by the performance. I agree the performance is not bad and they do look great...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> ^^^^^ Great Advice.
> 
> AquaTuning is shipping them beginning October 3rd, good news.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


I hope that means Aqua-computer will be also as I ordered mine from them!! And I was told that they would be shipping the middle of Oct now this was a few days back so things could have changed for the better.


----------



## kpoeticg

That's excellent news. Now i need to decide if i should wait for Performance-PCs to get it in stock or just order from AquaTuning. PPCs has my store credit from the 5 Pro and Waterblock.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Any chance on getting a sneak peak at the terminal or header description on the AQ6 since it seems to have changed????


You can just download the installation guide from the aquaero 5 because it uses the same connections. The only difference is that the aquaero 6 uses 4-pin connectors for all fan channels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> AquaTuning is shipping them beginning October 3rd, good news.


It is just their assumption based on the general information that the shipping should start early October. You can be sure that the shipping will NOT start at 3rd October.


----------



## kpoeticg

Are you still planning on "early" October?


----------



## Shoggy

I can not tell a definite date. Could be around mid October.


----------



## kpoeticg

Cool. Thanx for replying =) Can't Wait!!!


----------



## X-Nine

I hate waiting for product. The anticipation kills me. I wish I could just teleport things as soon as they're released. Hmmmm...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I hate waiting for product. The anticipation kills me. I wish I could just teleport things as soon as they're released. Hmmmm...


I know what you mean and I really hope I get mine by the middle of Oct or else it is really going to slow down my build. well not really because I have the aquaero 5 Lt actually 2 of them and also 6 of the USB power adjust. but I dont want to use them I want to use the aquaero 6 that way the 5 is wroth more because i not open box!!! LOL


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I hate waiting for product. The anticipation kills me. I wish I could just teleport things as soon as they're released. Hmmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> I know what you mean and I really hope I get mine by the middle of Oct or else it is really going to slow down my build. well not really because I have the aquaero 5 Lt actually 2 of them and also 6 of the USB power adjust. but I dont want to use them I want to use the aquaero 6 that way the 5 is wroth more because i not open box!!! LOL
Click to expand...

Totally understand. I have a build kind of underway (waiting for the case to arrive from Lian Li) and I would much rather use this as no waterblock is necessary. Will make for a cleaner install. The question is, do I sell my A5 or keep it for a smaller build one day? Decisions decisions....


----------



## MeanBruce

Even though Performance-PCs.com is a ten-minute drive for me, think I'll order from Aquatuning-US as long as shipping is not crazy expensive, hoping they ship from a warehouse in the US and not all the way from Germany. Can't wait to dive into that amazing software. Complete and precise control over your internal cooling array, or something like that.









Can the Aquaero 6 make additions to voltage by 0.1 increments? 0.5?.05? Assuming you can dial in any voltage you want (4.75v) and it will read the milliamps-current draw from each fan. That would be nice since some of my fans are rated .08Amps and others .13Amps which is very low, think the Noctua NF-F12s only draw .05Amps at 12v. Currently running my fans at 4 and 5volts, the Lamptron FC-10 looks great with the Nixie tubes and acts as a digital thermometer, but only allows incremental settings of 1.0 volt per channel, which then equates to too high of an rpm OR too low, getting the A6 to improve that tuning ability.

Thanks for the update Shoggy!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Totally understand. I have a build kind of underway (waiting for the case to arrive from Lian Li) and I would much rather use this as no waterblock is necessary. Will make for a cleaner install. The question is, do I sell my A5 or keep it for a smaller build one day? Decisions decisions....


Case to arrive from where!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They should take you out back and shoot you for that... Why that case and not a CL case?????

Make it massive like mine!!!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

The build I'm in the middle of right now is gonna be using the RIVE BE, AMD R9 290x, and Aquero 6 Pro. So I'm sympathetic to waiting LOL.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Even though Performance-PCs.com is a ten-minute drive for me, think I'll order from Aquatuning-US as long as shipping is not crazy expensive, hoping they ship from a warehouse in the US and not all the way from Germany. Can't wait to dive into that amazing software. Complete and precise control over your internal cooling array, or something like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can the Aquaero 6 make additions to voltage by 0.1 increments? 0.5?.05? Assuming you can dial in any voltage you want (4.75v) and it will read the milliamps-current draw from each fan. That would be nice since some of my fans are rated .08Amps and others .13Amps which is very low, think the Noctua NF-F12s only draw .05Amps at 12v. Currently running my fans at 4 and 5volts, the Lamptron FC-10 looks great with the Nixie tubes and acts as a digital thermometer, but only allows incremental settings of 1.0 volt per channel, which then equates to too high of an rpm OR too low, getting the A6 to improve that tuning ability.
> 
> Thanks for the update Shoggy!


Well if Performance-PC's has it in stock at the same time as Aquatuning, I'll probly go PPCs. I've dealt with them alot and they have the best customer service of any online store i've dealt with. Plus PPCs is holding my store credit right now from returning the Aquaero 5 Pro + Waterblock. As far as fine-tuning voltage, I'm pretty sure you can either adjust by Voltage, RPM, or PWM on all the headers. If you don't have PWM fans, tuning by RPM should achieve what you're trying to do. If I'm wrong on that I'm sure Shoggy will chime in and correct me.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The build I'm in the middle of right now is gonna be using the RIVE BE, AMD R9 290x, and Aquero 6 Pro. So I'm sympathetic to waiting LOL.
> Well if Performance-PC's has it in stock at the same time as Aquatuning, I'll probly go PPCs. I've dealt with them alot and they have the best customer service of any online store i've dealt with. Plus PPCs is holding my store credit right now from returning the Aquaero 5 Pro + Waterblock. As far as fine-tuning voltage, I'm pretty sure you can either adjust by Voltage, RPM, or PWM on all the headers. If you don't have PWM fans, tuning by RPM should achieve what you're trying to do. If I'm wrong on that I'm sure Shoggy will chime in and correct me.


That's the most beautiful motherboard I've ever laid eyes on, congratulations man. Hoping ASUS will create another beauty next year with the Rampage V Extreme red/black or all black, although RVE just doesn't have the same ring to it. Maybe we'll call it RoVEr.









If PPCs and Aquatuning get the A6 at the same time I'll drive over and pick one up from Jim at Performance-PCs, but have a feeling Aquatuning might sell them a few weeks earlier.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Totally understand. I have a build kind of underway (waiting for the case to arrive from Lian Li) and I would much rather use this as no waterblock is necessary. Will make for a cleaner install. The question is, do I sell my A5 or keep it for a smaller build one day? Decisions decisions....
> 
> 
> 
> Case to arrive from where!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They should take you out back and shoot you for that... Why that case and not a CL case?????
> 
> Make it massive like mine!!!!!!
Click to expand...

LOL, because it's a project I had planned before being hired. So, gotta do what I gotta do, and I'm still deciding on which CL is best for me. I'm actually looking to go smaller now that ITX is actually getting some powerhouse boards out, and I really only use one GPU at a time. While I do want to go smaller, I'm not going for "budget" friendly gear. I want the best of the best when it comes to my stuff. And if I went big like you, I'd have nowhere to sleep! ROFL

Do I need an Aquaero 6? No. Do I want one? Hell yes! Plus, I'll be going from a 5 Pro to a 6 XT. Fits the build better.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> LOL, because it's a project I had planned before being hired. So, gotta do what I gotta do, and I'm still deciding on which CL is best for me. I'm actually looking to go smaller now that ITX is actually getting some powerhouse boards out, and I really only use one GPU at a time. While I do want to go smaller, I'm not going for "budget" friendly gear. I want the best of the best when it comes to my stuff. And if I went big like you, I'd have nowhere to sleep! ROFL
> 
> Do I need an Aquaero 6? No. Do I want one? Hell yes! Plus, I'll be going from a 5 Pro to a 6 XT. Fits the build better.


My Case is big enough that you would not have to worry about a place to sleep you could sleep in it. if it was not full or hard drives and motherboards like mine is!!!! lol


----------



## Shoggy

You can use

- percent 0-100%, one position after decimal point
- voltage 0-12V, one position after decimal point
- rpm 0-9999

When using PWM it justs converts the percent value to the PWM signal rate.

Everything customizable in addition with min and max values, hold minimum function, start boost and current limiter (as a kind of fuse against overload).


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use
> 
> - percent 0-100%, one position after decimal point
> - voltage 0-12V, one position after decimal point
> - rpm 0-9999
> 
> When using PWM it justs converts the percent value to the PWM signal rate.
> 
> Everything customizable in addition with min and max values, hold minimum function, start boost and current limiter (as a kind of fuse against overload).


Looking forward to running my fans at 36.6% or 5.2volts or 686rpms, and that's what makes the Aquaero 6 a unique and distinctive product. Now I'm really excited, thanks again Shoggsman.









Planning on creating the most exceptional cooling array, umm on my block, and since most all my neighbors are over 70, that won't be far out of reach.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's the most beautiful motherboard I've ever laid eyes on, congratulations man. Hoping ASUS will create another beauty next year with the Rampage V Extreme red/black or all black, although RVE just doesn't have the same ring to it. Maybe we'll call it RoVEr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If PPCs and Aquatuning get the A6 at the same time I'll drive over and pick one up from Jim at Performance-PCs, but have a feeling Aquatuning might sell them a few weeks earlier.


Thanks, Luckily I just ordered my RIVE right b4 the announcement so Newegg refunded it for me. I'm sure the Rampage V's are gonna be sick. They'll probly be red/black like the normal Rampage IV's. They don't usually release a Black Edition til later on to keep people interested.


----------



## iBored

Shoggy, can the 2pin headers at the left corner of the aquaero6 control LED lights or wire it up to a vandal switch?
Gotta check. I wanna get my order sorted =)


----------



## lowfiwhiteguy

So what electrical engineering wizardry has AquaComputer used so that we can run ALL of our fans and pumps on it when it appears it only has one Molex plug? I know you can draw massive power through a a single Molex, but if I did this without the Aquaero the Molex connector would probably melt.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfiwhiteguy*
> 
> So what electrical engineering wizardry has AquaComputer used so that we can run ALL of our fans and pumps on it when it appears it only has one Molex plug? I know you can draw massive power through a a single Molex, but if I did this without the Aquaero the Molex connector would probably melt.


Just so you know ... Molex plugs can handle 10amps. Yes you heard that right, 10amps. With no chance of heating up (slightly maybe)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfiwhiteguy*
> 
> So what electrical engineering wizardry has AquaComputer used so that we can run ALL of our fans and pumps on it when it appears it only has one Molex plug? I know you can draw massive power through a a single Molex, but if I did this without the Aquaero the Molex connector would probably melt.


I was wrong remember it wrong looked it up in my book and they are rated for 10 amps..


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Just so you know ... Molex plugs can handle 10amps. Yes you heard that right, 10amps. With no chance of heating up (slightly maybe)


maybe you are right but i want to see it everything I have seen says 60 watts!! can you link me to something that says this... ????????????

ok edit i found it and you are right up to 10 amps. the thing that scares me a little about this is people trying to use 18ga wire for this. it will carry this but will get mighty warm..

Circuit Size4
Current Rating6-10A
Mounting StylePCB Through Hole
OrientationVertical Headers, Receptacles
Pitch5.08mm (.200")
ToolNo
Voltage Rating250V
Wire Gauge (AWG)20-14


----------



## DaveLT

AWG18 will handle 15amps no problem. PCI-E cables and EPS cables are 14-16AWG








Keep in mind nobody really buys a fan controller to run the fans/pumps at full speed ... Of course. Also, i have seen misconceptions about fans pulling same amount of current with less voltage. (earlier in this thread?) Nope. They're linear


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> AWG18 will handle 15amps no problem. PCI-E cables and EPS cables are 14-16AWG


yes it will handle it I did state that but actually if you follow NEC they say 16 amps for chassis wiring and 2 amps for power transmission!! LOL

a 18 AWG wire will handle it with no problem like I said before but it will get warm and I know this from experience. Notice I said mighty warm I did not say hot!! and actually there are several factors that will contribute to this beside the wire size...


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes it will handle it I did state that but actually if you follow NEC they say 16 amps for chassis wiring and 2 amps for power transmission!! LOL
> 
> a 18 AWG wire will handle it with no problem like I said before but it will get warm and I know this from experience. Notice I said mighty warm I did not say hot!! and actually there are several factors that will contribute to this beside the wire size...


Power transmission ... Do you know what that means? The wiring above you. 2amps is because of great lengths to cover within a HOUSE.

Oh btw, i'm an electronics instrumentation engineer ... I know my AWG ampacity by heart ... And actually have real data to back it up. If 15A would get AWG18 mighty i would have known but my instrumentations all use AWG18 for 15amps and they don't even shudder.
Unless your AWG18 is "AWG18"


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Power transmission ... Do you know what that means? The wiring above you. 2amps is because of great lengths to cover within a HOUSE.
> 
> Oh btw, i'm an electronics instrumentation engineer ... I know my AWG ampacity by heart ... And actually have real data to back it up. If 15A would get AWG18 mighty i would have known but my instrumentations all use AWG18 for 15amps and they don't even shudder.
> Unless your AWG18 is "AWG18"


BTW i am a EE so???? and nothing I said was incorrect except what I corrected about the molex connectors.. but I am not going to say anything else because you are always right and everyone is inferior to you and everything we say is stupid and we don't have have real world experience..

this thread needs to get back to discussion of the Aquaero 6.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Shoggy, can the 2pin headers at the left corner of the aquaero6 control LED lights or wire it up to a vandal switch?
> Gotta check. I wanna get my order sorted =)


Yes, they can be used for that. Both ports provide a pulsed (15kHz) 12V signal. So for your LEDs it is very likely that you will have to use a resistor.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> BTW i am a EE so???? and nothing I said was incorrect except what I corrected about the molex connectors.. but I am not going to say anything else because you are always right and everyone is inferior to you and everything we say is stupid and we don't have have real world experience..
> 
> this thread needs to get back to discussion of the Aquaero 6.


My point is, 2amps is only if you are transmitting power. Mains power that is


----------



## lowfiwhiteguy

I'm just a dumb mechanical engineer so I had to ask. When you guys want to build a hot rod, come ask me.


----------



## dseg

Will the A6 only be able to do 40+ PWM fans or will it be able to dial down 3-pin regular fans also?
I remember on the A5 it could do like 4 fans a header because it would get too hot because the more you dialed it down, the hotter it got. Then it would overheat.

How many Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (3pin fans) could I daisy chain on one header of the A6, dialed back to around 60% power??
Each fan is 0.083A


----------



## DaveLT

If the old ones were overheating they must be operating in linear mode then, strange. I wonder why the did so

Apparently they did 40 3pin fans in the video


----------



## kpoeticg

The Aquaero 5 and previous models had the same problems that alot of fan controllers have had from Voltage Controlling. The problem is the heat that builds up when you lower the speed of your fans through Voltage Control. Apparently they worked all that out though. On the Demo video, they showed an Aquero 6 with 2 Channels Voltage Controlling 20 fans each and the other 2 Channels Voltage Controlling a D5 each. Add to that the PWM capability of all 4 channels and this thing should be the perfect controller.

That's why the Water Block was a must-have for the Aquaero 5


----------



## Quadricwan

Yeah, despite the fact that I'm not keen (who is) on dropping another few hundred dollars on this, I'm definitely going to get one. I love my Aquaero 5, but full PWM control and fewer heat issues is just too good an option to pass up on.

Damn you Aquacomputer! Why you make such good stuff!

Also - why did your D5 pump top end up having such high resistance? Seems like the one sour apple in an otherwise stellar lineup of products.


----------



## X-Nine

All of this electrical talk makes my brain hurt., lol.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Yeah, despite the fact that I'm not keen (who is) on dropping another few hundred dollars on this, I'm definitely going to get one. I love my Aquaero 5, but full PWM control and fewer heat issues is just too good an option to pass up on.
> 
> Damn you Aquacomputer! Why you make such good stuff!
> 
> Also - why did your D5 pump top end up having such high resistance? Seems like the one sour apple in an otherwise stellar lineup of products.


Do you mean this pump?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063_2_zps0754a41a.jpg.html

Should I buy a different AC pump or another brand? I'm trying to put together a parts list for an ultra-silent loop.

My only hesitation moving to custom water is the pump noise. Have considered both the XSPC D5 vario pump and the AquaComputer D5 USB software controlled pump. Do you have to turn these pumps way down to minimum volts before they go inaudible? Or do they go dead silent somewhere in the middle of the range?

I live driving distance (10minutes) from Performance-PCs.com so returns would be very simple.

For rads, I'm looking at the XSPC RX360 and the AquaComputer Airplex 360 copper, not so much to dial the fans way down (have some very quiet fans) but dial the pump way down and still maintain a Delta T of 0C and auditory output of less than 10db, minus the noise floor.

Maybe I'm wanting too much out of water cooling, trying to move away from an H100i.

Probably the wrong thread to ask, but thought maybe Shoggy could chime in on the decibel rating of the AC D5 USB, I'm a total newbie to custom water.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Aquaero 5 and previous models had the same problems that alot of fan controllers have had from Voltage Controlling. The problem is the heat that builds up when you lower the speed of your fans through Voltage Control. Apparently they worked all that out though. On the Demo video, they showed an Aquero 6 with 2 Channels Voltage Controlling 20 fans each and the other 2 Channels Voltage Controlling a D5 each. Add to that the PWM capability of all 4 channels and this thing should be the perfect controller.
> 
> That's why the Water Block was a must-have for the Aquaero 5


Only linear controllers. My fan controller that i bought is in essence switched by PWM like a motherboard VRM/PPM so it doesn't suffer from that issue. Linear regulators literally just dissipate off extra voltage
Input : 12V, Output : 5V if the fan is pulling 1.5A it is dissipating 10.5W


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Do you mean this pump?
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/33063_2_zps0754a41a.jpg.html
> 
> Should I buy a different AC pump or another brand? I'm trying to put together a parts list for an ultra-silent loop.
> 
> My only hesitation moving to custom water is the pump noise. Have considered both the XSPC D5 vario pump and the AquaComputer D5 USB software controlled pump. Do you have to turn these pumps way down to minimum volts before they go inaudible? Or do they go dead silent somewhere in the middle of the range?
> 
> I live driving distance (10minutes) from Performance-PCs.com so returns would be very simple.
> 
> For rads, I'm looking at the XSPC RX360 and the AquaComputer Airplex 360 copper, not so much to dial the fans way down (have some very quiet fans) but dial the pump way down and still maintain a Delta T of 0C and auditory output of less than 10db, minus the noise floor.
> 
> Maybe I'm wanting too much out of water cooling, trying to move away from an H100i.
> 
> Probably the wrong thread to ask, but thought maybe Shoggy could chime in on the decibel rating of the AC D5 USB, I'm a total newbie to water loops.


I'm pretty sure he means the Aqualis D5 Top. The AC D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus (the pump in your pic) is a good choice from everything i've read. The AC version let's you change the speed without having to physically turn the knob on the pump which can be really convenient. Getting a PWM pump will give you the same functionality but the one you showed is a good choice. After you buy it, you're gonna need to buy a Pump Top for it to work. I'm pretty sure he was talking about a Top they make.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure he means the Aqualis D5 Top. The AC D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus (the pump in your pic) is a good choice from everything i've read. The AC version let's you change the speed without having to physically turn the knob on the pump which can be really convenient. Getting a PWM pump will give you the same functionality but the one you showed is a good choice. After you buy it, you're gonna need to buy a Pump Top for it to work. I'm pretty sure he was talking about a Top they make.


He was talking about the pump top having too much physical resistance? Thought he was saying the pump had way too high electrical resistance, I'm such a nooober.









Just trying to select a pump that's extremely quiet and able to run at low volts if needed to lower the noise, also thinking of getting way more surface area in the radiator than I probably need also to be able to run the pump slower than normal. I might be adding way to much drama here, if the pumps are already very silent.


----------



## kpoeticg

More rad space = a cooler system and probly quieter fans, not necessarily a quieter pump. Generally around 1.5GPM is the best performance/noise ratio with a pump. The more complex your loop, the harder your pump will need to work to achieve that. For instance when he commented on that top adding flow restriction, that means your pump has to work harder to keep up it's flow rate. That being said, don't be stingy with rad space. That's what's doing the actual cooling in your watercooling loop. The general rule of thumb is 1 x 120mm rad space for every component in your loop + an extra 120. Or 2 x 120mm for your CPU and 1 x 120mm for every component you add. Either way you look at it, same thing. That rule will give you pretty good cooling. But if you can fit an extra 240 or 360 after that, go for it.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> More rad space = a cooler system and probly quieter fans, not necessarily a quieter pump. Generally around 1.5GPM is the best performance/noise ratio with a pump. The more complex your loop, the harder your pump will need to work to achieve that. For instance when he commented on that top adding flow restriction, that means your pump has to work harder to keep up it's flow rate. That being said, don't be stingy with rad space. That's what's doing the actual cooling in your watercooling loop. The general rule of thumb is 1 x 120mm rad space for every component in your loop + an extra 120. Or 2 x 120mm for your CPU and 1 x 120mm for every component you add. Either way you look at it, same thing. That rule will give you pretty good cooling. But if you can fit an extra 240 or 360 after that, go for it.


I'm planning either the AC 360 copper or the XSPC RX360 and only cooling the CPU, a 3770K at 4.5GHz for now and an 5820K HW-E 6-core next year.

Will cool the GPU with air.

My fans are inaudible at 700-800rpm so running 3 on the new radiator in PULL config., hopefully that will adequately cool the CPU. Could always move to PUSH, but that would be a distant 2nd choice.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you're setting up a custom loop, you might as well put your GPU/s under water too. That's one of the big plus's over a CLC.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm planning either the AC 360 copper or the XSPC RX360 and only cooling the CPU, a 3770K at 4.5GHz for now and an 5820K HW-E 6-core next year.
> 
> Will cool the GPU with air.
> 
> My fans are inaudible at 700-800rpm so running 3 on the new radiator in PULL config., hopefully that will adequately cool the CPU. Could always move to PUSH, but that would be a distant 2nd choice.


What's the point of a custom loop if you're not cooling the GPU i question? GPUs are often the loudest portion (duh, look at the squirrel cage fan)
That will really help lower noise of everything and besides a D5 on max on a neoprene pad is pretty silent.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What's the point of a custom loop if you're not cooling the GPU i question? GPUs are often the loudest portion (duh, look at the squirrel cage fan)
> That will really help lower noise of everything and besides a D5 on max on a neoprene pad is pretty silent.


It's a work rig, and trying to keep it as simple as possible. May add the GPU later, that would be ideal.

Right now working just above idle my video card is inaudible, can only hear the H100i pump at 30inches away.

neoprene or sorbothane, I'll try both thank you. rep rep.


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure he means the Aqualis D5 Top. The AC D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus (the pump in your pic) is a good choice from everything i've read. The AC version let's you change the speed without having to physically turn the knob on the pump which can be really convenient. Getting a PWM pump will give you the same functionality but the one you showed is a good choice. After you buy it, you're gonna need to buy a Pump Top for it to work. I'm pretty sure he was talking about a Top they make.


Correct, I was talking about the D5 pump top, not the pump itself. Stren's Pump-top roundup has shown the Aquacomputer top to be an inferior, if still aesthetically pleasing, product. Oh well, I can forgive them on this one


----------



## pilotter

- Would I need to watercool this if I use 2 headers with 4 fans (0,18A x 4)

-will it be possible to control a mcp35x2 with this ( I know on the aq5 you can use header 3 and 4 and draw the power from the PSU)


----------



## kpoeticg

1. Not even close
2. Yes. All 4 fan headers are PWM capable. You should always power them through your PSU like b4 tho.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 1. Not even close
> 2. Yes. All 4 fan headers are PWM capable. *You should always power them through your PSU like b4 tho*.


Can I ask why???
I thought those D5 pumps with pwm connectors are meant for these controllers.
At least that's what my friend has been telling me to do.


----------



## seross69

Yes you control the pumps from the Aquaero but you should power them from the power supply. You will hook the pumps up to the Aquaero and the PSU.


----------



## kpoeticg

You connect the PWM connector to a fan header and you connect the Molex to the PSU.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You connect the PWM connector to a fan header and you connect the Molex to the PSU.


yes this is the way I recommend you do it also. put this really depends on the pump I have 1 that came with all the wires going to a 4 pin fan female connector. i cut the 2 power wires the +12v and the negative and hooked this to the PSU and hooked the RPM and PWM signal wire to the aquaero...


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, i thought all PWM pumps came with a Molex connector. It's not that difficult to recrimp though


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You connect the PWM connector to a fan header and you connect the Molex to the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> yes this is the way I recommend you do it also. put this really depends on the pump I have 1 that came with all the wires going to a 4 pin fan female connector. i cut the 2 power wires the +12v and the negative and hooked this to the PSU and hooked the RPM and PWM signal wire to the aquaero...
Click to expand...

What pump is this? Currently I have a DCP 4.0 in mine, and it's running off a mobo PWM header just fine. Though for my next build I'm going back to the D5 Vario.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> What pump is this? Currently I have a DCP 4.0 in mine, and it's running off a mobo PWM header just fine. Though for my next build I'm going back to the D5 Vario.


That is good to know about the DCP 4.0 I would guess all motherboards will also them or what do you think!! IT is hard to find this info, I know for the Asus Board they say 1 amp and I think 1 board I cant remember says 18 watts.. But never found this on AsRock Boards.


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> That is good to know about the DCP 4.0 I would guess all motherboards will also them or what do you think!! IT is hard to find this info, I know for the Asus Board they say 1 amp and I think 1 board I cant remember says 18 watts.. But never found this on AsRock Boards.


I *THINK* there's a standard limit and it's 1 amp per header. I've had a couple that are 2 amp per header with a six or eight amp combined limit.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> I *THINK* there's a standard limit and it's 1 amp per header. I've had a couple that are 2 amp per header with a six or eight amp combined limit.


Yeah that is what I am thinking but you know what can happen when you assume something???


----------



## Darren9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah that is what I am thinking but you know what can happen when you assume something???


Personally I just wouldn't plug a pump into one, if you want speed control get a vario of some sort (or USB now) or a PWM from mobo with power from molex.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darren9*
> 
> I *THINK* there's a standard limit and it's 1 amp per header. I've had a couple that are 2 amp per header with a six or eight amp combined limit.


2amps "sticker rating" which is surge current on start. Most fans pull half of that while running, all motherboards are 1amp continuous current with 2amp surge
I wouldn't attempt more than 2amp on all the connectors combined though ... the poor 24pin only has a single 12V wire and that means that the 75W going to EACH PCIE x16 device is also coming from that very wire
Also, RAM VRMs and everything else is connected. Only the CPU is connected to the EPS12V


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> the poor 24pin only has a single 12V wire and that means that the 75W going to EACH PCIE x16 device is also coming from that very wire
> Also, RAM VRMs and everything else is connected. Only the CPU is connected to the EPS12V


24 pin has two 12V wires. The older 20 pin had only one.

It's unusual that each PCIe slot will have to deliver the full 75W nowadays. Not sure about AMD cards, but Nvidia uses the PCIe slot power only for startup circuitry and relies on the 6/8pin connectors for connection to VRMs which power the chip.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 24 pin has two 12V wires. The older 20 pin had only one.
> 
> It's unusual that each PCIe slot will have to deliver the full 75W nowadays. Not sure about AMD cards, but Nvidia uses the PCIe slot power only for startup circuitry and relies on the 6/8pin connectors for connection to VRMs which power the chip.


Oh sorry but i am right in saying 2 wires is still not much for what it has to handle?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Oh sorry but i am right in saying 2 wires is still not much for what it has to handle?


Only if you have many older generation GPUs or hard drive arrays powered by PCIe or something like this. Generally it's no problem for a consumer gaming machine.


----------



## kpoeticg

Also newer higher end gaming boards usually have the extra PCIE power header.

Regardless, generally if you can afford to put together a custom loop you can afford the extra cpl bucks for a seperate fan/pump controller. Motherboard headers generally aren't made for the higher quality pumps. And if you use a fan controller and burn it out, you can grab another one. If you blow out the header on your mobo, it's always gonna bother you til you get a new mobo.

There's a reason we're all in this thread desperately awaiting the release of the Aquaero 6. =P
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Can I ask why???
> I thought those D5 pumps with pwm connectors are meant for these controllers.
> At least that's what my friend has been telling me to do.


When you take a PWM pump and plug the pwm connector on one channel and plug the power on another channel, you're Voltage Controlling it AND PWM controlling it at the same time. That completely defeats the purpose of using PWM. Also, you're using up extra amps of your controller when there's absolutely no benefit to it. PWM is a much smoother control method.

Excuse this corny analogy because it's late and i need to go to bed, but it's like...
If you're driving with a friend and need him to give you directions, he gives you the directions, then you pull the car over, get out and make him give you a piggy back ride there instead.


----------



## X-Nine

I just don't think there's a need to cut and re-crimp a couple of wires. If your pump only comes with a PWM connector, it can be powered soleley off of PWM. Some larger pumps (D5, for example) also have a molex connector, which of course you'd plug in to a PSU cable.

I really wish we could kill those 4 Pin molex connectors off entirely. to be honest. So many of them are cheap, get wonky and warped and stupid after plugging/unplugging them a few times. As the infomercials always say.... THERE'S GOT TO BE A BETTER WAY!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

The EZ-Pinch connectors are nice for that. Also, I'm pretty new to crimping/sleeving/wiring, and even for me, redoing a molex is a 5 minute job. They're by far the easiest pins to remove. Also, I just feel powering your pump through a PWM header just defeats the purpose. The beauty of PWM is you're pump gets clean power straight from the PSU and still gets a smoother control from the fan header. I hear you about recrimping, especially if somebody would need to learn how to crimp just for that one connector, but you can always get a PWM splitter cable for a few bucks. There's a reason PWM splitter cables have a Molex connector on em. But anybody making a PWM pump should supply it with a Molex and a fan connector like the MCP35x or D5 PWM.


----------



## MeanBruce

I use these Molex to SATA adapters since a single SATA power cable off my PSU has 4 ports, then I don't have to use a Molex line at all, one less cable.

Molex are flimsy, is their Amp rating greater than SATA or is Molex just an old standard we can't let go of?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_1720_zpsd24d1b17.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

I personally like 4 Pin Molex because like i said, as far as pin removal and recrimping, it's easier and faster. The dbl ended molex pin remover is literally just push in and pull the wire out. Sata's a PITA to crimp, for me at least

Plus there's alot of different options for molex connectors. EZ Pinch, Low Profile, Male Female Pass-Through, 5v Pass Through, 12v Pass Through, Tons of color options.....


----------



## MeanBruce

I always feel so guilty in this hobby, not being a crimper or a sleever or a solderer, always feel that's a basic responsibility that I should accept and buy all that behind-the-scenes maintenance gear.

Then I remember I would only use that stuff once maybe twice a year, and I spend those funds on another cool part coming out like the A6.

I did buy a DataVac mini-blower that I use once a week, so I give myself some credit.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I just don't think there's a need to cut and re-crimp a couple of wires. If your pump only comes with a PWM connector, it can be powered soleley off of PWM. Some larger pumps (D5, for example) also have a molex connector, which of course you'd plug in to a PSU cable.
> 
> I really wish we could kill those 4 Pin molex connectors off entirely. to be honest. So many of them are cheap, get wonky and warped and stupid after plugging/unplugging them a few times. As the infomercials always say.... THERE'S GOT TO BE A BETTER WAY!!!!


Flimsy? The ones i have are either really darn solid or the ones you have are utter crap ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I use these Molex to SATA adapters since a single SATA power cable off my PSU has 4 ports, then I don't have to use a Molex line at all, one less cable.
> 
> Molex are flimsy, is their Amp rating greater than SATA or is Molex just an old standard we can't let go of?


Far higher. While Molexes can carry 10A per contact without heating up SATA has to do with 1.5A per contact across 3 contacts for a total of 4.5A


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I always feel so guilty in this hobby, not being a crimper or a sleever or a solderer, always feel that's a basic responsibility that I should accept and buy all that behind-the-scenes maintenance gear.
> 
> Then I remember I would only use that stuff once maybe twice a year, and I spend those funds on another cool part coming out like the A6.
> 
> I did buy a DataVac mini-blower that I use once a week, so I give myself some credit.


I am happy to see someone else in the same boat as me...misery loves company, I guess ..lol
I just don't know how people find the time and patience to do this. I bought every tool under the sun that you can think of to do this, including a a good soldering station, but still can't commit the time to learn it.









Anyway, during my latest endeavor to rebuild my water loop, I blew out one of my Aquero 5 xts (smoke and all, LCD screen gone) due to the molex not being plugged in well (what a design flaw on this one!) and having all channels loaded up with quite a few amps, but below the max amp limit for each and total for the unit. I still have my other Aquero 5xt that is working fine. So , my question is, is it better to send the old one for repair replacement to Aqua computer or to purchase this new Aquaero 6? I think Aqua charges a $130 or so for repair, including shipping..just going off memory here..but someone please correct me if I am wrong.
Has anyone received their AQ6 yet? Experience with shipping time, etc?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I am happy to see someone else in the same boat as me...misery loves company, I guess ..lol
> I just don't know how people find the time and patience to do this. I bought every tool under the sun that you can think of to do this, including a a good soldering station, but still can't commit the time to learn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, during my latest endeavor to rebuild my water loop, I blew out one of my Aquero 5 xts (smoke and all, LCD screen gone) due to the molex not being plugged in well (what a design flaw on this one!) and having all channels loaded up with quite a few amps, but below the max amp limit for each and total for the unit. I still have my other Aquero 5xt that is working fine. So , my question is, is it better to send the old one for repair replacement to Aqua computer or to purchase this new Aquaero 6? I think Aqua charges a $130 or so for repair, including shipping..just going off memory here..but someone please correct me if I am wrong.
> Has anyone received their AQ6 yet? Experience with shipping time, etc?


Don't think anyone has an Aquaero 6 yet, maybe in Europe, I'm thinking 2nd week in October here in the US. Next month is going to be amazing:

Happy Hacking Keyboard

AquaComputer Aquaero 6 Oct 15 to 20th

Topre PBT dye sublimated white keycaps

Samsung 27in 2560x1440 display

Birthdays ROCK!

I should have asked for a soldering station and some nice wick and shrink tubing. Nah, where's the fun in that?


----------



## kpoeticg

Ummmm.....

RIVE Black Edition
AMD Volcanic Islands..............................................
..................................
................................


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I always feel so guilty in this hobby, not being a crimper or a sleever or a solderer, always feel that's a basic responsibility that I should accept and buy all that behind-the-scenes maintenance gear.
> 
> Then I remember I would only use that stuff once maybe twice a year, and I spend those funds on another cool part coming out like the A6.
> 
> I did buy a DataVac mini-blower that I use once a week, so I give myself some credit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I am happy to see someone else in the same boat as me...misery loves company, I guess ..lol
> I just don't know how people find the time and patience to do this. I bought every tool under the sun that you can think of to do this, including a a good soldering station, but still can't commit the time to learn it.


Basic soldering and crimping is ridiculously easy to learn and not expensive to get adequate tools. I'm not especially good at either, but taking a cpl hours of time to learn is highly recommended. You have no idea how much more you have the ability to do with just a cpl hours of time. If you spend a large amount of time using or fixing computers or electronics, learning to crimp and solder is like 100 foot brick walls everywhere you look just instantly disappear after a cpl hours on youtube. Lutro0 taught me how to crimp in like a 40 minute video. If you wanna learn to solder, just get one of those $20 Elenco soldering practice kits and a $20 radio shack soldering gun. You'll have basic skills for soldering and crimping in the amount of time it takes to watch a movie. You can even have a boring movie on in the background if you're ADHD like me =P

Especially for crimping and sleeving, I CANNOT stress enough how helpful Lutro0's OCN threads and youtube video's AND online store are.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Ummmm.....
> 
> RIVE Black Edition
> AMD Volcanic Islands..............................................
> ..................................
> ................................


That's some nice gear man,





















.

I'm planning on an R9 290 with or without the X also, but will most likely wait until the non-reference sku comes available from ASUS, I love the DCU2 cooler on the current GTX780, with the new ASUS fan design. Hoping AquaComputer or someone makes a water block for that ASUS non-ref card.


----------



## provost

@ kpoeticg I know it's not rocket science, but some people have the time and patience to do it, and some don't. I fall under the latter category. I have neither the time, nor the patience. I have sleeved some of the fan cables and did some soldering to make some cables, and my temper metering keeps going up with every sleeving job. So, I have come to a conclusion that learning this skill/task has a very low time/reward return for me; the opportunity cost of my free time is a lot higher than any gratification I can derive from learning to do this myself. I would rather outsourcing this part of my hobby (if we can call it that) and be more relaxed while having time for more important pursuits


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's some nice gear man,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm planning on an R9 290 with or without the X also, but will most likely wait until the non-reference sku comes available from ASUS, I love the DCU2 cooler on the current GTX780, with the new ASUS fan design. Hoping AquaComputer or someone makes a water block for that ASUS non-ref card.


Some1 always makes a block for the ASUS version/s. I'm probly gonna grab 2 290x's at launch. I've been doing too much waiting on this build. No way my patience lasts past Oct. If/When I grab a 3rd and/or 4th 290x I'll probly want the Asus version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> @ kpoeticg I know it's not rocket science, but some people have the time and patience to do it, and some don't. I fall under the latter category. I have neither the time, nor the patience. I have sleeved some of the fan cables and did some soldering to make some cables, and my temper metering keeps going up with every sleeving job. So, I have come to a conclusion that learning this skill/task has a very low time/reward return for me; the opportunity cost of my free time is a lot higher than any gratification I can derive from learning to do this myself. I would rather outsourcing this part of my hobby (if we can call it that) and be more relaxed while having time for more important pursuits


Soldering isn't really needed for sleeving/making cables. It's useful but not needed. Crimping IS. Soldering cables is probly the most frustrating way to not learn to solder =P. Soldering is just useful knowledge for absolutely anything electronic or computer related. You can't learn to solder really (IMO) unless you're learning on a PCB board. Otherwise you'll have no idea how soldering works. That's why i recommended the $20 Elenco Kit (That's how i learned). Things that seem impossible to fix become trivial.

Crimping is absolutely needed for sleeving/making cables. Seriously, just watching Lutro0's crimping video will give you the knowledge to make your own cables from scratch. It's not hard though. Especially if you grab the Lutro0 or MDPC crimper. That's the most expensive purchase you'd need to make in learning to crimp.

Obviously, you either wanna learn something or you don't. Nobody can tell me what I should or shouldn't learn. I'm just letting you know, I tried soldering years ago when the Nintendo Wii came out (....), I broke my Wii and gave up on soldering. Like 5 years later i bought one of those Elenco kits and had a full understanding of what i did wrong and how to do it right in an hour or 2.


----------



## provost

Gotcha.

Anyways, the bottom one is the one that's blown...lol

http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/provostelite/media/photo_zpsc449f3b5.jpg.html

Thinking AQ6 may be the the best way to go to replace it...is there a manual anywhere that we can read up on this?


----------



## kpoeticg

The AC forums would be the best place, unless Shoggy chimes in on this discussion. From other posts I've seen, it depends what exactly is blown whether it's an easy fix or not. I know the LCD display is the same between the 5 and 6, only the PCB board is changed. For instance, you could buy a 6 Pro, take the PCB out, put it in a 5 XT, and have a 6 XT

But....... brotha.......just from looking at that picture, I know your mindstate exactly because that was me. I had everything i needed and frustrated myself out of being interested anymore. Please just consider what i said. $20 Elenco practice soldering kit from Amazon, Lutro0 or MDPC crimper (if that isn't already an MDPC crimper i see in the pic) (Lutro also sells a die that he mills personally for the MDPC crimper so it can crimp 4-Pin Molex, he charges like $12 for it or something like that), Lutro0's youtube channel. You'll be shocked at how quickly you learn when you have the perfect tutorial. You've obviously already invested plenty of time and money, a cpl hours is worth your time to make the puzzle pieces fit together.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AC forums would be the best place, unless Shoggy chimes in on this discussion. From other posts I've seen, it depends what exactly is blown whether it's an easy fix or not. I know the LCD display is the same between the 5 and 6, only the PCB board is changed. For instance, you could buy a 6 Pro, take the PCB out, put it in a 5 XT, and have a 6 XT
> 
> But....... brotha.......just from looking at that picture, I know your mindstate exactly because that was me. I had everything i needed and frustrated myself out of being interested anymore. Please just consider what i said. $20 Elenco practice soldering kit from Amazon, Lutro0 or MDPC crimper (if that isn't already an MDPC crimper i see in the pic) (Lutro also sells a die that he mills personally for the MDPC crimper so it can crimp 4-Pin Molex, he charges like $12 for it or something like that), Lutro0's youtube channel. You'll be shocked at how quickly you learn when you have the perfect tutorial. You've obviously already invested plenty of time and money, a cpl hours is worth your time to make the puzzle pieces fit together.


I will check out Lutro. Thanks.


----------



## provost

DP


----------



## kpoeticg

NP. Lutro0 has incredible tuts for sleeving and crimping. You'll learn everything you need to know.

If you ever decide to give soldering a shot again, take my advice on the Elenco Practice Kits. They are the Perfect way to learn basic soldering skills A person with a decent soldering station deserves to have basic soldering skills. I'm not confident enough to create complex Circuits, but i KNOW how to solder. The kit will just teach you the principles in a quick, easy, and cheap way.

And since we're on the topic, THIS is THE BEST tool for 4 Pin Molex. I've bought most pin removal tools and kits, and most i will never use. For 4-Pin Molex, that is all you will ever need. Push the tool in, click, pull the wire out. Most places have a version of that including Lutro0-Customs, Perfomance-PCs, FrozenCPU, Amazon.... It has a Male and Female end. I bought the Lamptron AiO kit and still can't use either of the tips for 4-Pin Molex on it.

Buy the Original Molex tool from Lutro0, MDPC, or FrozenCPU for ATX/EPS Pins.

I use the Lamptron for fans and none of the other tips. But fans are easy without spending that kind of money. I regret the purchase. Lutro0 shows you how to make a fan pin remover from an exacto knife. That's what i recommend.

Hope this helps. TRUST ME on the pin removal tools. I've bought em all!!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Will the A6 only be able to do 40+ PWM fans or will it be able to dial down 3-pin regular fans also?
> I remember on the A5 it could do like 4 fans a header because it would get too hot because the more you dialed it down, the hotter it got. Then it would overheat.
> 
> How many Gentle Typhoon AP-15s (3pin fans) could I daisy chain on one header of the A6, dialed back to around 60% power??
> Each fan is 0.083A


The aquaero can control the fans by voltage or PWM. In both cases the available power of each fan channel is 30W. Of course the fans in the video were voltage controlled because using PWM would have been useless for a demonstration. Other than the aquaero 5 the aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers which work with a very high efficiency throughout the whole voltage range. Also other than the aquaero 5 a lower voltage will not generate a higher thermal dissipation loss anymore. So the slower the fans run, the lower the temperature of the voltage regulator will be.

The mentioned fan would draw about 1W when it runs normally but keep in mind that its starting current will be higher so without that value it is hard to tell how many of them you could run on one channel. The used fans in the video are about 2W at normal operation. So in theory that should have not even worked but it did









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Probably the wrong thread to ask, but thought maybe Shoggy could chime in on the decibel rating of the AC D5 USB, I'm a total newbie to custom water.


I have no values for you but just take a look at any Laing D5 review that you can find because our pump is just exactly the same but with some controlling stuff at its backside.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Would I need to watercool this if I use 2 headers with 4 fans (0,18A x 4)
> 
> Will it be possible to control a mcp35x2 with this ( I know on the aq5 you can use header 3 and 4 and draw the power from the PSU)


No, you will not need at waterblock (which also does not exist so far...). You fans have the same rating as the fans from the video ;-)

If you connect each pump to its own channel you can also use these pumps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I think Aqua charges a $130 or so for repair, including shipping..just going off memory here..but someone please correct me if I am wrong.
> Has anyone received their AQ6 yet? Experience with shipping time, etc?


The worst thing that can happen is that the main controller board can not be repaired anymore and must be exchanged. Together with shipping back to you that would be about $92. If the display is also damaged it would make more sense to get a new device.

No one will be able to tell you anything about the aquaero 6 because so far not a single unit has been shipped.

If you order directly from us the normal shipping option (34.90 Euro flat for everything outside Europe) it takes about 2-3 weeks but also depends on customs etc. If you select UPS it takes about 2 days but costs more (depends on weight/size).


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The worst thing that can happen is that the main controller board can not be repaired anymore and must be exchanged. Together with shipping back to you that would be about $92. If the display is also damaged it would make more sense to get a new device.


Do you mean the LCD Controller Board or the device PCB? Because the PCB is the same as an Aquaero 5 LT. If that's the case, you'd save a few bucks just grabbing an LT from Performance-PCs or FrozenCPU. The LT's around $70-$75 IIRC


----------



## dseg

Thanks shoggy for the reply.
What is the best way to power about 10 fans off one header? I'd rather not buy a bunch of splitters because that would be too many cables. It would be nice to be able to power a single fan splitter that was controlled by the A6 and all the fans would be the same speed.


----------



## DaaQ

Use a hub like *this* instead of splitter cables


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The worst thing that can happen is that the main controller board can not be repaired anymore and must be exchanged. Together with shipping back to you that would be about $92. If the display is also damaged it would make more sense to get a new device.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mean the LCD Controller Board or the device PCB? Because the PCB is the same as an Aquaero 5 LT. If that's the case, you'd save a few bucks just grabbing an LT from Performance-PCs or FrozenCPU. The LT's around $70-$75 IIRC
Click to expand...

Not on the A6. The A6's PCB is completely different from the A5, and no LT version will be available for the A6.

However, i will mention that it cost me something like 48 bucks to get a new LCD screen for my A5 about a year ago. Shipping the old one back, then having Aqua ship me a new one. Pricey, but thanks to some electrical snafu in my previous build, it was a cost that was incurred. Thankfully the whole unit didn't die. I think Aqua charged me something like 35 bucks for a new LCD screen to be shipped out to me. Depends on what's wrong with your unit, as the PCB is more expensive.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Use a hub like *this* instead of splitter cables


I actually have that but I tried to control to voltage to it but did not work.
I also just made a thread about this LINKY


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I actually have that but I tried to control to voltage to it but did not work.
> I also just made a thread about this LINKY


Yep. It's powered by a molex.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Do you mean the LCD Controller Board or the device PCB? Because the PCB is the same as an Aquaero 5 LT. If that's the case, you'd save a few bucks just grabbing an LT from Performance-PCs or FrozenCPU. The LT's around $70-$75 IIRC


I meant the main controller board and not the display (both have the same price btw). So if the main controller board is damaged it is also possible to grab an aquaero 5 LT and to use it as an exchange for the faulty board.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Not on the A6. The A6's PCB is completely different from the A5, and no LT version will be available for the A6.


Yeah I know, I was upset about no LT for the A6. I was just tellin him it's cheaper to by an LT and replace the board than have AC do it for $96.


----------



## SinatraFan

Any idea when it will be available to US customers?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Any idea when it will be available to US customers?


in a way it is not. Just order from AquaComputer directly or from Aqua-Tunning and they will deliver when it is released.


----------



## overclockerz

Hi Aquacomputer:

Aquaero 5 XT gave me hell as no matters how much i tried and asked around, there is no solution to my problems. My problem is i can't get the Aquaero 5 XT unit to display the flow rate from my 53129 USB flow meter. I also can't get the Poweradjust 2 Ultra to display on my Aquaero 5 XT.

Now, i want to know if the above MPS device connectivity issues with Aquaero FC unit will persist in this Aquaero 6.

i want a 100% guarantee. Also, i request for you to set up a test to see whether a 150cm cables make up of aquabus cables (53122 & 53124) is able of estabishing flawless communication between the Aquaero 6 and the High Flow USB flow meter (53129).


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerz*
> 
> Aquaero 5 XT gave me hell as no matters how much i tried and asked around, there is no solution to my problems. My problem is i can't get the Aquaero 5 XT unit to display the flow rate from my 53129 USB flow meter. I also can't get the Poweradjust 2 Ultra to display on my Aquaero 5 XT.
> 
> Now, i want to know if the above MPS device connectivity issues with Aquaero FC unit will persist in this Aquaero 6.
> 
> i want a 100% guarantee. Also, i request for you to set up a test to see whether a 150cm cables make up of aquabus cables (53122 & 53124) is able of estabishing flawless communication between the Aquaero 6 and the High Flow USB flow meter (53129).


Please check your thread with the aquaero 5 problem. As written there it just looks like you have not assigned unique aquabus IDs to all devices.

The aquaero 6 uses the same aquabus protocol and also the same hardware for this so nothing will change here.

Almost 200 cm (3 cables and two y-adapters):



No problem... and I am pretty sure it could have been even longer.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero 6 uses the same aquabus protocol and also the same hardware for this so nothing will change here.










The Aquabus Protocol


----------



## SinatraFan

Does the Aquaero require Aquacomputer sensors or can you use a flowmeter like this one with it?

INLINE Flowmeter


----------



## kpoeticg

On the Aquaero 5, Fan Channel 1 can be used to connect a third party flow sensor. I'm assuming it's the same.


----------



## overclockerz

Hi Shoggy:

Thanks for the detailed explanation below. However, I have not got a multimeter with me now so I am unable to check the voltage reading.
I made some progress last night and can confidently isolate the fault to the aquabus interface on the flow meter 53129.

I managed to setup my poweradjust 2 ultra via USB. I connect a temperature sensor to the poweradjust 2 ultra too and it manage to show up in aquasuite under "TEMPERATURE SENSOR" with the label "POWERADJUST 1". Under the "TEMPERATURE SENSOR" tab, I also saw an additional temperature reading labeled as "FAN AMPLIFIER 5" which I believe is the temperature of the poweradjust 2 ultra.
After which, I disconnect the USB cable between the motherboard and the poweradjust 2 ultra, leaving the poweradjust 2 ultra connected only to the high-speed port on the Aquaero 5 XT . Both the "POWERADJUST 1" and "FAN AMPLIFIER 5" temperature reading still appear in aquasuite. This concluded that there is nothing wrong with the aquabus interface on the Aquaero 5 XT.
The culprit now is very likely a faulty aquabus interface on the 53129 USB high flow meter. I tested the 2-pin temperature port on the flow meter and temperature reading managed to appear in aquasuite labeled "EXTERNAL TEMPERATURE". For the 3-pin port on the flow meter 53129, I have not tested it yet.

I also purposely used a 120cm long 3-pins fan connector (a few connected together) to connect the poweradjust 2 ultra to the high speed port on Aquaero 5 XT, and the temperature readings are still captured in aquasuite. This shows lengthy wire is not the issue why my flow meter 53129 is not transmitting a signal to the aquaero 5 XT unit.


----------



## RussianC

Anyone know exact price yet? Would die to have this in my rig.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RussianC*
> 
> Anyone know exact price yet? Would die to have this in my rig.


Go to the Aquacomputer website XT is 179.90 Euro's and the Pro is 149.90.

Aquatunning.. XT $221.11 and Pro $184.05

these are the prices on the aquaero 6


----------



## dseg

Can we get an actual ship date now? I believe it is early enough to get a date when these will be available.
My whole build is waiting on these.


----------



## seross69

Shoggy or anyone that knows the answer??

I have a couple of questions and I know you are the man to ask.

1. If I have 1 temperature input can I use it to control the fans on more than 1 header?
Example::. I have a temperature sensor on the out port of the 3rd radiator can I use this temperature sensor to control the fans on all 3 radiators even if they are hooked to 3 different headers

2. Can I use 1 temperature sensor to control 6 different LED's using the multiswitch??
Example: using 1 temperature switch can I turn on and off the 8 outputs on the multiswitch so that I can have a different color LED on at 8 different temperatures??

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me!!


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shoggy or anyone that knows the answer??
> 
> I have a couple of questions and I know you are the man to ask.
> 
> 1. If I have 1 temperature input can I use it to control the fans on more than 1 header?
> Example::. I have a temperature sensor on the out port of the 3rd radiator can I use this temperature sensor to control the fans on all 3 radiators even if they are hooked to 3 different headers
> 
> 2. Can I use 1 temperature sensor to control 6 different LED's using the multiswitch??
> Example: using 1 temperature switch can I turn on and off the 8 outputs on the multiswitch so that I can have a different color LED on at 8 different temperatures??
> 
> Thank you in advance for any help you can give me!!


1. Yes
2. What is the multiswitch?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> 1. Yes
> 2. What is the multiswitch?


Thanks for you answer on #1, I thought this was correct but wanted to verify it.

for #2 look at this LINK

It also can be controlled by the Aquaero 5 or 6. Shoggy Had told me before you could use the power contacts to turn fans on and off based on temperature so I wondered if one sensor could be used to determine if the switches on this are on or off. to control different Color LED's depending on temp.


----------



## Daggi

I'm gonna get a Aquaero 6 Pro for my 900D rig and put my Aquaero 5 Pro in my 540 Air. I really like that they have moved the power connector:thumb:


----------



## kcuestag

Give us a ship date already, I can't wait for my Aquaero 6 PRO!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Give us a ship date already, I can't wait for my Aquaero 6 PRO!


I also 2nd this!!!!


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I also 2nd this!!!!


I third it, dont make me  lol I just jk


----------



## X-Nine

From everything I'm seeing it should be out mid-month to end of month. Which is okay, I need to get the funds to buy this for my rig. That and a GTX 780 block and active backplate from Aquacomputer. I can't wait, I'm so giddy!


----------



## MeanBruce

Aquaero 6























Guess I need to order another Flex-Bay 5.25 Device Mount - Short Adjustable from Jim for the new controller. Take a look at the new CaseLabs website. It looks amazing, what an improvement!









http://www.caselabs-store.com/

Yup, I need some water cooling gear, all that room in my M8 just going to waste.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_2187_zps2bce9f94.jpg.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Example::. I have a temperature sensor on the out port of the 3rd radiator can I use this temperature sensor to control the fans on all 3 radiators even if they are hooked to 3 different headers


As well as buying a sensor for coolant temperature, you get 4 air temp sensors standard in the box. You can place those in various places around the case for extra monitoring. E.g. case intake (ambient) temp, case exhaust temp, temp near the pump. Then you can make a 'virtual sensor' which calculates the difference between ambient and coolant temp, and then make profiles based on that.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> As well as buying a sensor for coolant temperature, you get 4 air temp sensors standard in the box. You can place those in various places around the case for extra monitoring. E.g. case intake (ambient) temp, case exhaust temp, temp near the pump. Then you can make a 'virtual sensor' which calculates the difference between ambient and coolant temp, and then make profiles based on that.


That's the main reason I want the Aquaero 6, I want to make a profile so that my fans raise their speed based on the coolant delta temperature.









Can't wait, I'm hoping they release it before the end of the month.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I need to order another Flex-Bay 5.25 Device Mount - Short Adjustable from Jim for the new controller. Take a look at the new CaseLabs website. It looks amazing, what an improvement!


I like that San Ace you put in there


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> That's the main reason I want the Aquaero 6, I want to make a profile so that my fans raise their speed based on the coolant delta temperature.


Yeah this is a much smoother way of controlling fans, instead of tying fan speed to CPU core temperature. Not so jumpy and is less affected by changes in room temperature.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I like that San Ace you put in there


I really love their industrial all-business aesthetic, and more importantly they push a large volume of air running inaudible at 1000rpm and below, I got 5 of them from Newark Element14. Two for the H100i as intake, two as unobstructed front intake and a single rear exhaust. Also one in the Corsair AX860 (Seasonic) PSU, but it never spins up. No LEDs, no colored rings, but they cannot be heard at all, that's their premium. They are San Ace Silent S-Type. The impellers look like rotor blades from classic fighter airplanes. I have 4 Noctua NF-F12s, these go dead silent at a much higher rpm and achieve better cooling.

http://www.newark.com/

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...0px-LL-2531ce21_IMG_1300_zps0104c603.jpg.html


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Does the Aquaero require Aquacomputer sensors or can you use a flowmeter like this one with it?
> 
> INLINE Flowmeter


I can not tell for sure if this sensor will work. You can use any sensor as long as it works with 5V and acts as open collector for the signal. To be able to configure the sensor you will also need the impulserate per liter. You should stay away from sensors that us a very high impulse rate like 2500+. It is likely that they will not work correctly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Can we get an actual ship date now? I believe it is early enough to get a date when these will be available.
> My whole build is waiting on these.


We are still focusing on mid this month but I can not promise it. There is still some stuff to do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 1. If I have 1 temperature input can I use it to control the fans on more than 1 header?
> Example::. I have a temperature sensor on the out port of the 3rd radiator can I use this temperature sensor to control the fans on all 3 radiators even if they are hooked to 3 different headers
> 
> 2. Can I use 1 temperature sensor to control 6 different LED's using the multiswitch??
> Example: using 1 temperature switch can I turn on and off the 8 outputs on the multiswitch so that I can have a different color LED on at 8 different temperatures??


Yes, that is no problem. You can assign one sensor to different controllers (outputs).

Same for an attached multiswitch. You can also use one sensor to indicate different states with the LEDs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shoggy Had told me before you could use the power contacts to turn fans on and off based on temperature so I wondered if one sensor could be used to determine if the switches on this are on or off. to control different Color LED's depending on temp.


As said it can be done but on a side note: the multiswitch is not recommend for fans. It works with PWM and some fans generate a humming noise with that. Also when attached to an aquaero the channels of the multiswitch can be only switched on and off. It is not possible to control the power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> As well as buying a sensor for coolant temperature, you get 4 air temp sensors standard in the box. You can place those in various places around the case for extra monitoring. E.g. case intake (ambient) temp, case exhaust temp, temp near the pump. Then you can make a 'virtual sensor' which calculates the difference between ambient and coolant temp, and then make profiles based on that.


Everything correct but also on a side note: in this case you will be forced to use degree as unit since the calculations will not work correctly with Fahrenheit. The problem is that the conversion between both units is not linear and internally we use degree and just convert it for the screen output which works fine - but not when you start to calculate with these values.


----------



## kpoeticg

I still need to pick out a flowmeter for my Aquaero 6. You guys have too many options =P. If XSPC's ever kind enough to sell the D5 top for the Photon res as an accessory the first thing im gonna buy is the AC D5 with Aquabus. I can't use an Aqualis cuz i need to mount my res horizontally. =\

What's the Voltage/Amp rating on the 2 PWM LED headers? I'm modding LED's into a bunch of my fans and i don't know if should run em in series off the PWM headers, the relay output, or just breakdown and buy a multiswitch. I wanna be able to control em based on fan speed. If i went with the Multiswitch it would be the LT version (if you guys still sell that) cuz i don't need the buttons


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I still need to pick out a flowmeter for my Aquaero 6. You guys have too many options =P. If XSPC's ever kind enough to sell the D5 top for the Photon res as an accessory the first thing im gonna buy is the AC D5 with Aquabus. I can't use an Aqualis cuz i need to mount my res horizontally. =\
> 
> What's the Voltage/Amp rating on the 2 PWM LED headers? I'm modding LED's into a bunch of my fans and i don't know if should run em in series off the PWM headers, the relay output, or just breakdown and buy a multiswitch. I wanna be able to control em based on fan speed. If i went with the Multiswitch it would be the LT version (if you guys still sell that) cuz i don't need the buttons


Get the Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 P/N 53068...


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> What's the Voltage/Amp rating on the 2 PWM LED headers?


Both headers use 12V and the maximum load is 1A. The PWM frequency is 15kHz.


----------



## SinatraFan

Shoggy,

Does the Aquaero 6 have the capability to either a) sound an alarm if the pump stops working and/or b) shut down the computer if the pump stops working?


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero has a beeper on board and there are different ways how you can setup an alarm and also shut down the PC. The easiest way without any accessory is to let the aquaero "push" the power off button (keyboard event) via USB a bit more complicated but safer is to use the ATX break adapter with a relay plug. This will also work when the PC has crashed.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The easiest way without any accessory is to let the aquaero "push" the power off button (keyboard event) via USB a bit more complicated but safer is to use the ATX break adapter with a relay plug. This will also work when the PC has crashed.


Is there a set of instructions to do this in the manual? Or perhaps a link on the forum? Thanks


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Is there a set of instructions to do this in the manual? Or perhaps a link on the forum? Thanks


Haha, I'll definitely be buying this shortly after release, just because I LOVE the hardware. I'm not going to lie though, Aquacomputer really needs to put together a manual/instruction guide that isn't complete garbage. The learning curve on the Aquaero is huge for a lot of people, because it's so hard to stumble through forum posts & German layout guides in order to put together enough knowledge to use more than the most basic features.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get the Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 P/N 53068...


That's the flow sensor I'm planning the AquaComputer. Looks like I'll end up with a mix of AquaComputer and XSPC parts, I hope they play nice together.









Seross69, I have three of the San Ace Silent Medium speed 130mAmp and two of the Silent Low speed 80mAmp. Also, they arrive unsleeved from the distributor. Believe they're made for the server market built very solid and I noticed the polished edge or tip of the impellers does not collect that white line of micro-dust like Noctua and Corsair and Cooler Master and every other fan I've owned, that portion of the blade that cuts through the air initially remains clean, a well thought out design.

http://www.newark.com/sanyo-denki-sanace-fans/9s1212m4011/axial-fan-130ma-12v/dp/03P9424?in_merch=Popular Products

http://www.newark.com/sanyo-denki-sanace-fans/9s1212l4011/fan-silent-120mm-12v-low-speed/dp/33R1003

addendum: if you want to simplify your ordering and your control over your cooling array with the Aquaero 6 get all Medium speed 130milliamp rated. I have two of the low speed on a single channel and they need more voltage to achieve the same rpm and their range of use seems a bit more limited. The Medium speed are just as inaudible as the low speed. If I had to do it over again I'd order all medium speed rated.









Maybe Shoggy can add his knowledge base to this inquiry.

Which amp rating is best for use with the Aquaero 6 for a silent work rig fan rpms set at a constant 700 to 800 rpm range?

Low 80mA
Medium 130mA
Fast 190mA
High 390mA

using only 6 fans, it probably does not even matter, unless the low rpms (low volts) brings out the heat in the A6. Still if there IS an optimum amp rating for such a use I would love to know for the next time I order a group of fans.

just as reference, both Corsair and Seasonic use the Fast 190mA speed rated SanAce Silent in their platinum PSUs.

...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Get the Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 P/N 53068...


Thanx. That's what I'll do

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Both headers use 12V and the maximum load is 1A. The PWM frequency is 15kHz.


Wow. Nice. That's a decent amount to work with for LED's

MeanBruce, San Ace's are one of the best computer fans in the world. They also usually run about 50 bucks a piece unless you can salvage one from an old server. With a device like an Aquaero, you don't need to get low/medium speed fans. Kinda defeats the purpose to have a resistor in your fan when the Aquaero does the same thing =P


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> MeanBruce, San Ace's are one of the best computer fans in the world. They also usually run about 50 bucks a piece unless you can salvage one from an old server. With a device like an Aquaero, you don't need to get low/medium speed fans. Kinda defeats the purpose to have a resistor in your fan when the Aquaero does the same thing =P


So I should have just bought the High Speed at 390mA rating? Even Seasonic does not use those in their PSUs, they drop down one rating. I wasn't sure if the High Speed fans would operate at very low rpms, quietly. An engineer friend told me the fans may differ internally bearings housing etc. So I went with medium and low.

If the only real difference is a silly added resistor to rate the fans differently at a full 12volts then you are absolutely right. In the end it all worked out anyway, the fans are a silent enthusiast's dream.

Yea they were costly, $38each for the first three, and $42each for the last two after sleeving. It was painful, luckily I only needed five.









Sorry for moving off topic, I got a PM asking about the fans so thought answering here would help more enthusiasts.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's all good, I've never owned a San Ace. GT AP-00's are the best I've used. So i can't speak for San Ace's specifically. All fans that I know about that have the same model fan in different speeds, just have a resistor in the wire to convert the 12v signal into 7v or 5v

390mA is CRAZY though. Those fans must move sooooo much air lol. I want 1 (or more likely 8) =)

You def shouldn't get the "Low" speed version of anything with a controller like the Aquaero. Especially the Aquaero 6 now that they've fixed the heat issue's with the 5.


----------



## DaveLT

I noticed the same thing as well from my collection of San Aces and Deltas







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's all good, I've never owned a San Ace. GT AP-00's are the best I've used. So i can't speak for San Ace's specifically. All fans that I know about that have the same model fan in different speeds, just have a resistor in the wire to convert the 12v signal into 7v or 5v
> 
> 390mA is CRAZY though. Those fans must move sooooo much air lol. I want 1 (or more likely 8) =)
> 
> You def shouldn't get the "Low" speed version of anything with a controller like the Aquaero. Especially the Aquaero 6 now that they've fixed the heat issue's with the 5.


Unless it's a cheap fan, false. They actually limit the motor RPM. The resistor must be huge if it's for a fan like a FFB1212 and also they wouldn't start at 5V if that was the case ...

390mA crazy? I have bought a few 0.58A San Ace 9G fans for my friend. Those are real San aces







Not the wimpy Silent ones


----------



## kpoeticg

Well yeah, i wasn't saying "Crazy" for a San Ace. I wuz just saying they must move alot of air with that much current. I guess it's just the cheaper fans then that do it with a resistor, but limiting the motor RPM is still the same concept with a different execution. That's what your fan controller's for. If you're gonna buy an incredible fan controller, no reason to by the limited version of the same fan. The fan controller will limit the motor RPM and for those times when your systems burning up, u still have the option to unleash that beast =)


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Is there a set of instructions to do this in the manual? Or perhaps a link on the forum? Thanks


No, we have no manual which explains this in detail but it is quite easy.

At first you have to set up an alarm



and and then an action for it



In this example the aquaero will start to beep at 40°C and at 50°C it shuts down the system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Which amp rating is best for use with the Aquaero 6 for a silent work rig fan rpms set at a constant 700 to 800 rpm range?


There is no thing like a best value. Let the funs run at whatever speed you want to use them.


----------



## seross69

Does anyone know if you can limit the current on the poweradjust usb ultra ?? like in the below?? That way I can run 8 Fans off one of these and not have to worry about overloading them. I am going to have 8 each Koolance 12025HBK at max of .28 amps so this would be 2.24 amps and Unless I am wrong the poweradjust is rated at 2amps. Or could I just have a fan blowing on them to keep them cool??


----------



## DaveLT

You should be aware that limiting current (if 0.28A is the nominal current that is) can cause fans to fail on startup. But almost every fan are rated on the sticker for startup inrush current


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> You should be aware that limiting current (if 0.28A is the nominal current that is) can cause fans to fail on startup. But almost every fan are rated on the sticker for startup inrush current


Dave thank's for this and yes I did know this but I am trying to plan for all eventualities. this is not like industrial equipment like I am used to working with where you are provided a RLA and FLA so you know what you are dealing with. I plan on hooking the fans up first and checking the amp draw with all 8 at top speed and at min speed. Also will get the start up amps and then see what I need to do. But i think you will agree the more information you have, the better you are able to plan for what ever might happen. i do not like surprises.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can limit the current on the poweradjust usb ultra ?? like in the below??


This option is available but only if you connect it to an aquaero because the poweradjust itself does not have the capability. It can read out the current draw but thats it - the aquaero can also process these values for a limit. But as DaveLT mentioned it will be likely that you will encounter problems with the higher start-up power.


----------



## carmas

I want to build my first watercooling loop and I want to get an Aquaero 6 to control pump and radiator fans.
I am thinking of the following setup:

1st channel: Aquastream XT
2nd channel: 8 fans (rated for 0.17 A and 2.05 W in normal operation, I don't know about the startup)
3nd channel: 8 fans (rated for 0.17 A and 2.05 W in normal operation, I don't know about the startup)
4th channel: free for expansion

I think that I don't need to use Poweradjusts, since each channel can provide up to 2A and 30W. Am I correct?


----------



## Shoggy

The aquastream does not support a speed control by voltage so do not connect it to a fan channel. The aquastream will be connected via aquabus to the aquaero so both devices can communicate with each other.

The rest should be fine, otherwise you just got your fan channel 1 back


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquastream does not support a speed control by voltage so do not connect it to a fan channel. The aquastream will be connected via aquabus to the aquaero so both devices can communicate with each other.
> 
> The rest should be fine, otherwise you just got your fan channel 1 back


Thank you for the answer. I need to check a couple more things and then I am ready to place my order. I am so looking forward to it


----------



## MeanBruce

For me, the A6 is going to replace a Lamptron FC10, its functionality is extremely limited, yet the circuitry seems rock solid. The Aquaero 6 should run circles around this simple controller.

Aquatuning-US shows the Aquaero 6 shipping October 21st, Woohoo.









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_1978_zpsd8217d03.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_1705_zps1d78e738.jpg.html


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> For me, the A6 is going to replace a Lamptron FC10, its functionality is extremely limited, yet the circuitry seems rock solid. The Aquaero 6 should run circles around this simple controller.


Are you going to hang onto the FC10 for aesthetics? I've always loved that controller, just because it looks _so cool_!

I'm really looking forward to being able to drop the A6 out of my watercooling loop at the moment. I may put it back in when I move to a larger Caselabs case and expand my radiator count, if I have enough fans to require it, but running the tubing to the A5 in the front bays is such a pain right now.

Oh, and it's a small thing, but thank god they've moved the molex power location from the side to the top. Even using a thin extender, I had to take of the side bracket to plug in the connector on the A5.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Aquatuning-US shows the Aquaero 6 shipping October 21st, Woohoo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


Yeah it originally said 10/3, then 10/11, now it says 10/21. I wouldn't get your hopes up....
Disappointing since it was suppose to be a early Oct release.


----------



## Shoggy

Right, current date from our side is end of the month.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Yeah it originally said 10/3, then 10/11, now it says 10/21. I wouldn't get your hopes up....
> Disappointing since it was suppose to be a early Oct release.


It seems like around 10% of OCN members are from Florida, I see them on every page, while our true numbers must be less than 1000th of a percent in the English speaking world.

I'm over in Melbourne Beach, so many Floridians here its freaking crazy.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> so many Floridians here its freaking crazy.


Include me in that group as well!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Include me in that group as well!


This one guy from Norway was asking if I had to kill a few gators just to get to the mailbox. I was like, yea man I do that every day, it's a real problem here, but we all learn how to wrestle them down as a rite of passage.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> This one guy from Norway was asking if I had to kill a few gators just to get to the mailbox. I was like, yea man I do that every day, it's a real problem here, but we all learn how to wrestle them down as a rite of passage.


Crazy thing is I've been down here for 6.5 years and haven't seen one yet. But, before I moved down here, the first time I came to Orlando on vacation, there was a 9 footer sunbathing next to the retention pond outside of my timeshare!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Are you going to hang onto the FC10 for aesthetics? I've always loved that controller, just because it looks _so cool_!
> 
> I'm really looking forward to being able to drop the A6 out of my watercooling loop at the moment. I may put it back in when I move to a larger Caselabs case and expand my radiator count, if I have enough fans to require it, but running the tubing to the A5 in the front bays is such a pain right now.
> 
> Oh, and it's a small thing, but thank god they've moved the molex power location from the side to the top. Even using a thin extender, I had to take of the side bracket to plug in the connector on the A5.


The FC10s Nixie vacuum tubes are very nice, I will most likely uninstall it when the Aquaero 6 arrives, may sell it after a month. Have another Lamptron controller an FC5V2 that I need to sell along with a shelf full of other great gear just sitting around, I really need to get it packed up and sold.

Ducky Shine 2 TKL, Corsair AX850, AXi cable kits two, 4NF-F12 fans, Vengance 1866 memory, H100, Obsidian 650D, I have a much longer list of gear I need to sell, anyone wants the list PM me.









Shipping within Florida should be fairly low.


----------



## pcmonky

nm, found it


----------



## Sneakybastard

Whats the difference between flow sensors 53129 and 53068?


----------



## kpoeticg

MeanBruce, that setup looks tight. I always liked the SteamPunk look of that Lamptron


----------



## seross69

Shoggy could you or anyone else tell me if the below drawing is possible and will work... I have attached the excel spreadsheet I used to create this so if anything needs correcting then you can on this..



AQ Set-up Drawings.zip 171k .zip file


Like this I would have 22 temps sensors and 8 flow sensors correct??

I was confused it is 12 fans for 2X420 Rads!!


----------



## DaveLT

Are you sure you need 24 fans for 2x420? Isn't that 12 fans?


----------



## djriful

Its nice but out of my budget.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Are you sure you need 24 fans for 2x420? Isn't that 12 fans?


It is 24 Fans for 2X420 Rads. I edited the above post. it is 24 AP-15's @ .08 amps each..


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> It is 24 Fans for 2X420 Rads. I edited the above post. it is 24 AP-15's @ .08 amps each..


How is it 24 fans unless you're going pushpush-pullpull on each rad 
Because each rad has 6 fans push-pull and 2 of them is 12. not 24


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> How is it 24 fans unless you're going pushpush-pullpull on each rad
> Because each rad has 6 fans push-pull and 2 of them is 12. not 24


I was wrong and see what he was saying..


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> Whats the difference between flow sensors 53129 and 53068?


53129 can be also used without an aquaero or other device to read out the flow rate. It can be used as stand alone device via USB and also features some simple alarm functions. The aquabus interface also allows you to connect it to an aquaero.

If you are only interested in the flow rate the sensor 53068 will be more interesting since you save some money. You will need a 3-pin connection cable for it in addition and then you can connect it to the flow port of the aquaero.

Or in other words: 53068 is the stupid one of both sensors since it requires additional hardware while 53129 already comes with some intelligence









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shoggy could you or anyone else tell me if the below drawing is possible and will work... I have attached the excel spreadsheet I used to create this so if anything needs correcting then you can on this..
> 
> 
> 
> AQ Set-up Drawings.zip 171k .zip file
> 
> 
> Like this I would have 22 temps sensors and 8 flow sensors correct??
> 
> In case anyone gets confused it is 24 fans for 2X420 Rads!!


This will not work because you can only use an aquaero *5 LT* as slave device and when you use a slave device the amount of poweradjust controllers is limited to fource because the slave device already acts as four poweradjusts. So whatever you do it is not possible to have more than 12 independent channels.

Also using the ultra variant of the poweradjusts make no sense in this setup. Other than the standard variant the ultra variant offers the option to control its output power depending on a temperature but this feature is already carried out by the aquaero so it makes no difference at all if you use a standard or ultra variant with it. So get the standard variant.

If you have not already bought the D5 pumps you could take a look at our D5 variant with USB/aquabus. This one can communicate with the aquaero directly via aquabus and does not require an additional poweradjust because the pump can control itself.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 53129 can be also used without an aquaero or other device to read out the flow rate. It can be used as stand alone device via USB and also features some simple alarm functions. The aquabus interface also allows you to connect it to an aquaero.
> 
> If you are only interested in the flow rate the sensor 53068 will be more interesting since you save some money. You will need a 3-pin connection cable for it in addition and then you can connect it to the flow port of the aquaero.
> 
> Or in other words: 53068 is the stupid one of both sensors since it requires additional hardware while 53129 already comes with some intelligence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will not work because you can only use an aquaero *5 LT* as slave device and when you use a slave device the amount of poweradjust controllers is limited to fource because the slave device already acts as four poweradjusts. So whatever you do it is not possible to have more than 12 independent channels.
> 
> Also using the ultra variant of the poweradjusts make no sense in this setup. Other than the standard variant the ultra variant offers the option to control its output power depending on a temperature but this feature is already carried out by the aquaero so it makes no difference at all if you use a standard or ultra variant with it. So get the standard variant.
> 
> If you have not already bought the D5 pumps you could take a look at our D5 variant with USB/aquabus. This one can communicate with the aquaero directly via aquabus and does not require an additional poweradjust because the pump can control itself.


Thank you so much for this Shoggy....


----------



## seross69

OK I revised the plan could you guys check it and let me know if it will work..



I am able to control everything in my Rig now..


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 53129 can be also used without an aquaero or other device to read out the flow rate. It can be used as stand alone device via USB and also features some simple alarm functions. The aquabus interface also allows you to connect it to an aquaero.
> 
> If you are only interested in the flow rate the sensor 53068 will be more interesting since you save some money. You will need a 3-pin connection cable for it in addition and then you can connect it to the flow port of the aquaero.
> 
> Or in other words: 53068 is the stupid one of both sensors since it requires additional hardware while 53129 already comes with some intelligence


So basically, if you're buying it for the sole purpose of hooking up to an Aquaero, there's no difference really except for the price?


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> OK I revised the plan could you guys check it and let me know if it will work..
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to control everything in my Rig now..


cmiiw, but if you're using AC's D5 pumps, they're controlled via aquabus interface, so you don't need those PAs.

and if I may suggest something, get the block for the LT. I'm currently using Aquaero 5 LT: 4 Corsair SP120 high perf, 3 Corsair AF120high perf, and 1 Corsair AF140 on 3 channels, using the heatsink, and temp reaches high 60's (celcius) when I turn down the fan speed to ~800 rpm during low loads. you're using way more fans on your LT, and you may not want to run them at max speed all the time.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So basically, if you're buying it for the sole purpose of hooking up to an Aquaero, there's no difference really except for the price?


yes you are right unless you want to hook up more flow sensors than you have regular headers for. then you can use the Aquabus and have more.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx, that clears it up for me. Def gonna grab a 53068 when i grab my A6 Pro


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> cmiiw, but if you're using AC's D5 pumps, they're controlled via aquabus interface, so you don't need those PAs.


Yes I know this but I have already bought the pumps with out the Aquabus. So I am going to have to use these for a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> cmiiw, but if you're using AC's D5 pumps, they're controlled via aquabus interface, so you don't need those PAs.
> 
> and if I may suggest something, get the block for the LT. I'm currently using Aquaero 5 LT: 4 Corsair SP120 high perf, 3 Corsair AF120high perf, and 1 Corsair AF140 on 3 channels, using the heatsink, and temp reaches high 60's (celcius) when I turn down the fan speed to ~800 rpm during low loads. you're using way more fans on your LT, and you may not want to run them at max speed all the time.


I will be using a water block and already have 2 of them and 2 LT's and now a 6 Pro coming.. need to get rid of one of the lt's and a water block... If only I had the pumps with the Aquabus. then I could make the load less.


----------



## seross69

Does anyone know how many virtual sensors you can have?? I know I have seen the answer somewhere but can not find it.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Does anyone know how many virtual sensors you can have?? I know I have seen the answer somewhere but can not find it.


my aquasuite shows 4 virtual sensors, so maybe that's the max. each virtual sensor can take in up to 3 values from other sensors.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> my aquasuite shows 4 virtual sensors, so maybe that's the max. each virtual sensor can take in up to 3 values from other sensors.


thanks a lot for this I thought it was 4 but I was not sure.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> OK I revised the plan could you guys check it and let me know if it will work..
> 
> 
> 
> I am able to control everything in my Rig now..


That will be OK but as already mentioned you will have to use the waterblock for the aquaero. I have some doubts that the 12 fans on channel three will work correctly.

edit: wait... is that a typo or have you merged the power rating when you wrote 2.24A at channel 1 for example? That would be almost 27W for one fan - that is insane! If these numbers are correct your setup will not work at all.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That will be OK but as already mentioned you will have to use the waterblock for the aquaero. I have some doubts that the 12 fans on channel three will work correctly.


Shoggy, this is a bit off topic, but what's the rated temp for Aquaero 5's? how long would they last if they stay at 50-60°C most of the time?

I want to play safe and get the Aquaero 6, but I simply don't need those features over mine, and it's confirmed that there'll be no LT version (don't need display). so give me a reason to upgrade..


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That will be OK but as already mentioned you will have to use the waterblock for the aquaero. I have some doubts that the 12 fans on channel three will work correctly.
> 
> edit: wait... is that a typo or have you merged the power rating when you wrote 2.24A at channel 1 for example? That would be almost 27W for one fan - that is insane! If these numbers are correct your setup will not work at all.


The amp ratings is the total of all the fans not each fan. The amps is the total amp draw from each channel. the 12 fans on channel 3 are Gentle Typoon AP-15 rated at .08 amps each so it would be a total of .96 amps for all 12..

I hope this makes it easier to understand for you....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> Shoggy, this is a bit off topic, but what's the rated temp for Aquaero 5's? how long would they last if they stay at 50-60°C most of the time?
> 
> I want to play safe and get the Aquaero 6, but I simply don't need those features over mine, and it's confirmed that there'll be no LT version (don't need display). so give me a reason to upgrade..


why do you need a reason?? its new it has more amps per channel, better power circuitry and all 4 fan channels are pmw


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> why do you need a reason?? its new it has more amps per channel, better power circuitry and all 4 fan channels are pmw


because (for now) I don't need those features, lol... I've mentioned before, that I only have like 8 fans in my case. but yeah, want and need are two different things. I think I'll get one sooner or later.


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero 5 provides 1.65A (about 20W) per channel and 60W as total maximum if you combine all channels. The available power depends a lot on the temperature because otherwise the overheat protection will kick in - even before you come close to the theoretical maximum load. The limit is set somewhere at 85°C (not 100% sure atm).


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero 5 provides 1.65A (about 20W) per channel and 60W as total maximum if you combine all channels. The available power depends a lot on the temperature because otherwise the overheat protection will kick in - even before you come close to the theoretical maximum load. The limit is set somewhere at 85°C (not 100% sure atm).


thanks! then the Aquaero 6 can wait a while.. +rep


----------



## kcuestag

Are we going to get a shipping/stock date for the Aquaero 6 PRO / XT any time soon? I'm anxious to get it!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Are we going to get a shipping/stock date for the Aquaero 6 PRO / XT any time soon? I'm anxious to get it!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Can we get an actual ship date now? I believe it is early enough to get a date when these will be available.
> My whole build is waiting on these.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We are still focusing on mid this month but I can not promise it. There is still some stuff to do.


----------



## kcuestag

I know that, but I first saw Aquatuning mentioning October 10th, but it seems today they changed it to October 21st, what a dissapointment.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> MeanBruce, that setup looks tight. I always liked the SteamPunk look of that Lamptron


The Lamptron vacuum tube controller is very nice, but when I got it last June had no idea AquaComputer manufactured anything as amazing as the Aquaero Series, I go months with my head buried in my work. Going to sell the SteamPunk display cheap, $55 as soon as I get the A6 installed, that's going to be a perfect time for a few days off, birthday, short vacation and the Aquaero 6.









I got this faceplate in and not even certain I need it, must be weighing too heavily on the aesthetic of the A6, need to learn its capabilities and plot out a nice diagrammatic like seross69. With six 130mA fans running at low rpms and the AquaComputer USB/Aquabus D5 pump and 53068 flow meter do I really need the PowerAdjust modules?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_2976_zps11fc26a9.jpg.html


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I got this faceplate in and not even certain I need it, must be weighing too heavily on the aesthetic of the A6, need to learn its capabilities and plot out a nice diagrammatic like seross69. With six 130mA fans running at low rpms and the AquaComputer USB/Aquabus D5 pump and 53068 flow meter do I really need the PowerAdjust modules?
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_2976_zps11fc26a9.jpg.html


I can't see why you would need it. The usb D5 pump is completely self-powered, so it's not going to be a drain on the Aquaero. Six fans is nothing. I'm in the same boat - I originally had a D5 on a Poweradjust 2, but I think I'm going to be moving to 2 Aquacomputer USB D5s. With the 9 fans I've got now, it'll be filler, and even with 18 fans (the theoretical max I'd be hitting, probably never get that high), I'm not sure that I'll need the extra fan headers. I'll probably still throw it in the case though, because I like the faceplate. Ha. Unless I can sell it.


----------



## kpoeticg

You don't need poweradjusts with what you listed. The D5 connects to the Aquabus port and the Flowmeter connects to the Flowmeter port. San Ace's do have a bigger amp draw than alot of normal fans, but the A6 is supposed to have the issue fixed where you generate alot of heat when you lower the fan RPM. So you shouldn't have any issue's connecting 6 fans between the 4 ports. I wouldn't waste money on PA's with that setup


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You don't need poweradjusts with what you listed. The D5 connects to the Aquabus port and the Flowmeter connects to the Flowmeter port. San Ace's do have a bigger amp draw than alot of normal fans, but the A6 is supposed to have the issue fixed where you generate alot of heat when you lower the fan RPM. So you shouldn't have any issue's connecting 6 fans between the 4 ports. I wouldn't waste money on PA's with that setup


That's really strange, the heat at low rpm issue the Aquaero 5 and previous generations have presented. My fans will first begin to spin as low as 250 to 280 rpm with 2.8-3.3 volts applied using my old Lamptron FC5V2 controller rated 30watts/channel and none of the electronics would be more than ever so slightly warm to the touch.

Currently with the FC10 controller 2fans on a single channel running appox. 636rpm 4volts, it's also rated 30Watts/channel and no excessive heat anywhere on the controller board, one component is moderately warm.

I must not know enough about the circumstances that bring on this common scenario, this extreme heat OR the need for the PowerAdjusts. Something to do with pump speed control at low rpms?

Gotta cut me some slack, I'm still living with an H100i mindset.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm still a bit of a n00b when it comes to electronic components so don't quote me, but it has something to do with V=IR and the amount of Amps and Watts it takes to operate the fan even though your lowering the Voltage to it to lower the RPM. All the additional heat generated gets dissipated at the fan header.

The PA's have a number of uses, especially with Aquaero 5 and previous generations. Most people use em for pumps though. If you were using an Aquaero 5 and a regular D5 then a PA would be a good idea. But the Aquacomputer D5 doesn't need to use up the Aquaero's resources to operate. The Aquaero's only rated for so many amps, the PA's add more. On the Aquaero 5, it's highly recommended to get a waterblock to get close to the amount of amps its capable of. I think the Aquaero 6 is rated for 2.5 amps per channel but you can get 3 with the waterblock which is wayyyyyy better than the Aquaero 5. I think with the 5 you needed a waterblock to get close to 2 per channel.

I got my Aquaero 5 the day before the 6 was announced so i never used it. So excuse me if I'm not exact on anything i just said =)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you have not already bought the D5 pumps you could take a look at our D5 variant with USB/aquabus. This one can communicate with the aquaero directly via aquabus and does not require an additional poweradjust because the pump can control itself.


So with the AQ D5 variant with USB/aquabus I am able to hook the pump Direct to power and connect the pump through the aquabus to the Aquaero 6 and it will control the speed?? I hope the answer to this is yes because then that would give me 4 more flow sensors and 4 more temps sensors and also be able to control the more powerful 180 fans using the PA's.


----------



## kpoeticg

The answer's YES. It's a D5 Vario that has the speed settings controlled through Aquasuite instead of that trimpot.


----------



## MeanBruce

My parts list is coming together slowly:

AquaComputer USB/Aquabus D5 pump

AquaComputer Aquaero 6 Controller

AquaComputer 53068 flow meter

XSPC RX360 radiator

XSPC RayStorm Copper CPU block

XSPC Photon 170 tube reservoir

Pump top - I have no freaking idea.


----------



## kpoeticg

Looks good so far. I have the Photon 170. It beyond sucks that they don't sell the pump top for the Photon/D5 combo seperately

Is the 360 for just a CPU or are you planning on putting a GPU or 2 under water too?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Looks good so far. I have the Photon 170. It beyond sucks that they don't sell the pump top for the Photon/D5 combo seperately
> 
> Is the 360 for just a CPU or are you planning on putting a GPU or 2 under water too?


I'm planning just the 3770k for 2-3months until water blocks are available for the R9 290(X) for the Asus DC2 non-ref. , only a single card.

Does the pump top come with the Photon?

What about this one sold separately?

http://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Laing-D5-Acetal-Pump-Top-Multi-Port_36723.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/36720_02_zpse052ccf2.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/36720_03_zps2ec5d141.jpg.html

I'd love to add some sweet Sorbothane feet to that base for auditory out < 8decibels.


----------



## kpoeticg

THIS is what i was talking about. After they released the Photon's, they released a version with a D5 connected to it. But from what i hear they have no plans on selling the top separately for people that already have the regular Photon or wanna use a different pump with it

There's people that'll read this that'll be able to give u a better recommendation for a D5 top than i can. I don't wanna give bad advice. I'm building my rig in a HAF XB so it'd real convenient if they sold that pump/res top separate. Right now I have an Apogee Drive II (MCP35x). I'm thinking of changing Blocks and maybe getting an AC D5 though


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> THIS is what i was talking about. After they released the Photon's, they released a version with a D5 connected to it. But from what i hear they have no plans on selling the top separately for people that already have the regular Photon or wanna use a different pump with it


Those Bastards!









I'm only planning on water cooling the CPU and then later a single R9 290(X).

When the blocks are available for the non-ref Asus DCU2s.


----------



## kpoeticg

The reason i asked about how much you're cooling..... I noticed you have a CL case. 360 is the Minimum recommended rad space for a CPU + GPU loop. You've already invested money in having one of the best cases for WC'ing. It wouldn't hurt to throw another 120 or 240 in there and get your money's worth out of the great case u got =) The rule of thumb 120 for each block plus another 120 is a Basic loop. You can get better performance by adding an extra 120 or 240 to that rule.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The reason i asked about how much you're cooling..... I noticed you have a CL case. 360 is the Minimum recommended rad space for a CPU + GPU loop. You've already invested money in having one of the best cases for WC'ing. It wouldn't hurt to throw another 120 or 240 in there and get your money's worth out of the great case u got =) The rule of thumb 120 for each block plus another 120 is a Basic loop. You can get better performance by adding an extra 120 or 240 to that rule.


Could always add a 240 or another 360 into the 2ndary compartment, that's why I love this case so much, thanks man.

I'm going to try to keep it as minimal/simplistic as possible, noise and leaks are higher on my list than FPS or benching numbers, it's a hobby but also my work rig.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you're only ever planning on adding 1 GPU block into the loop and nothing else, 2 360's would be a little overkill. An extra 240 would be more than you'd ever need. But if you want the option to add a 2nd GPU block and/or maybe a mobo block later on, it wouldn't hurt to get your radspace taken care of now while you're still building your loop. As long as you leaktest it b4 you put your hardware at risk, you'll be fine. Just Make Sure You Leaktest b4 you turn your rig on.

You're case is the reason i brought it up. It's almost a waste to get a sweet case like that and only throw one rad in it =P


----------



## seross69

can the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface provide a flow sensor reading back to the Aquaero 6 through the Aquabus???


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Are we going to get a shipping/stock date for the Aquaero 6 PRO / XT any time soon? I'm anxious to get it!


As I wrote some pages before the end of this month is more realistic at the moment.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's really strange, the heat at low rpm issue the Aquaero 5 and previous generations have presented. My fans will first begin to spin as low as 250 to 280 rpm with 2.8-3.3 volts applied using my old Lamptron FC5V2 controller rated 30watts/channel and none of the electronics would be more than ever so slightly warm to the touch.
> 
> Currently with the FC10 controller 2fans on a single channel running appox. 636rpm 4volts, it's also rated 30Watts/channel and no excessive heat anywhere on the controller board, one component is moderately warm.
> 
> I must not know enough about the circumstances that bring on this common scenario, this extreme heat OR the need for the PowerAdjusts. Something to do with pump speed control at low rpms?


Get ready for some science









The aquaero 5 works with an analog voltage control which as two main reasons. It provides a clean output and voltage control and the production costs are reasonable. With the development of the aquaero 5 we already checked the option to use the digital switching controllers like the aquaero 6 does now, but it would have been way too expensive and also very complicated to produce since some necessary parts had not this high integration that they have today. Advances in technology and so...

The analog voltage control burns unused energy as heat, especially when you slown down a fan for example.

Let us assume we have a fan which is rated at 0.5A which normally would mean it draws 6W (12V x 0.5A). Please note that the following calculation is simplified and does not take into account that the aquaero 5 already has a given voltage drop and the fan does not have a linear power consumption.

We need the voltage difference of the output (12V minus set voltage) and the power consumption of the fan at the current voltage settings. A few examples.

100% -> 12V -> 0V difference -> 0V x 0.5A = 0W thermal power loss
75% -> 9V -> 3V difference -> 3V x 0.375A = 1.125W thermal power loss
50% -> 6V -> 6V difference -> 6V x 0.25A = 1.5W thermal power loss
25% -> 3V -> 9V difference -> 9V x 0.125A = 1.125W thermal power loss

So, at about 50% we have the worse case. Settings above and below that half have a lower thermal power loss but as said this is a simplified example so do not take it too serious. The rating at 100% is already wrong because of a voltage drop of about 0.7V which is always there and as mentioned before the power consumption of the fan is not linear which I have just assumed for this example.

Of course you want to know why the Lamptron controller does not have this problem; the answer is pretty easy. They use a PWM circuit with a signal smoothing which is also clearly visible with a look at the backside of these controllers. So in the end it feels like an analog control but it is not the real thing and brings some problems - especially if you would use it for a controller like the aquaero which allows exact settings of the voltage etc. Is not my job to make that Lamptron controller look bad.

The PWM control has a pretty low thermal power loss but just believe me that this technique has several downsides. If you want to create a controller like the aquaero we could also say the more you do against these problems, the more further problems you get







A real problem is to get a precise and stable power control throughout the whole range from 0 to 12V no matter of the attached load.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> can the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface provide a flow sensor reading back to the Aquaero 6 through the Aquabus???


I'm pretty sure it provides a flow sensor + internal temp sensor reading. That's why it's considered an MPS device. I'm not 100% on that and i'm not 100% on how that affects how many flow/temp sensor inputs the Aquaero can handle. I'm just answering cuz no1 else has yet, I'm sure some1 (Shoggy) will answer when he gets a chance


----------



## Shoggy

No, the pump does not have an interface for a flow sensor.

The aquaero can handle 14 flow sensors: 2 directly on the aquaero, 8 connected via poweradjust and 4 mps based sensors.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's really strange, the heat at low rpm issue the Aquaero 5 and previous generations have presented. My fans will first begin to spin as low as 250 to 280 rpm with 2.8-3.3 volts applied using my old Lamptron FC5V2 controller rated 30watts/channel and none of the electronics would be more than ever so slightly warm to the touch.
> 
> Currently with the FC10 controller 2fans on a single channel running appox. 636rpm 4volts, it's also rated 30Watts/channel and no excessive heat anywhere on the controller board, one component is moderately warm.
> 
> I must not know enough about the circumstances that bring on this common scenario, this extreme heat OR the need for the PowerAdjusts. Something to do with pump speed control at low rpms?
> 
> Gotta cut me some slack, I'm still living with an H100i mindset.


That's Aquaero 5 is a linear-type circuit that's why it got hot at low voltages. It has to dump the excess voltage times the current as heat as such but fans do pull less current at low voltage

Almost all fan controllers that have small mosfets are PWM-switched BTW
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm still a bit of a n00b when it comes to electronic components so don't quote me, but it has something to do with V=IR and the amount of Amps and Watts it takes to operate the fan even though your lowering the Voltage to it to lower the RPM. All the additional heat generated gets dissipated at the fan header.
> 
> The PA's have a number of uses, especially with Aquaero 5 and previous generations. Most people use em for pumps though. If you were using an Aquaero 5 and a regular D5 then a PA would be a good idea. But the Aquacomputer D5 doesn't need to use up the Aquaero's resources to operate. The Aquaero's only rated for so many amps, the PA's add more. On the Aquaero 5, it's highly recommended to get a waterblock to get close to the amount of amps its capable of. I think the Aquaero 6 is rated for 2.5 amps per channel but you can get 3 with the waterblock which is wayyyyyy better than the Aquaero 5. I think with the 5 you needed a waterblock to get close to 2 per channel.
> 
> I got my Aquaero 5 the day before the 6 was announced so i never used it. So excuse me if I'm not exact on anything i just said =)


No ... If fan controllers and VRMs and PSUs (Same tech)were all so stuck in the past we would have motherboard VRM heatsinks the size of mars
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The reason i asked about how much you're cooling..... I noticed you have a CL case. 360 is the Minimum recommended rad space for a CPU + GPU loop. You've already invested money in having one of the best cases for WC'ing. It wouldn't hurt to throw another 120 or 240 in there and get your money's worth out of the great case u got =) The rule of thumb 120 for each block plus another 120 is a Basic loop. You can get better performance by adding an extra 120 or 240 to that rule.


Or you can do it like i did







I have another 120 in the back (not the left side, the right side







) only because i already had the rad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The PWM control has a pretty low thermal power loss but just believe me that this technique has several downsides. If you want to create a controller like the aquaero we could also say the more you do against these problems, the more further problems you get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A real problem is to get a precise and stable power control throughout the whole range from 0 to 12V no matter of the attached load.


Took you guys very long ... I had a 200W USB Lab SMPSU that ran on PWM (duh) and it was spot-on no matter what. I paid only 100$







3 years ago.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Took you guys very long ... I had a 200W USB Lab SMPSU that ran on PWM (duh) and it was spot-on no matter what. I paid only 100$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 years ago.


So, you really think that if it would be that easy we would not have already done it...?









Have you already tried to mount your SMPSU into a 5.25" drive bay - no? Maybe this could be one of many reasons against it


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero 5 works with an analog voltage control which as two main reasons. It provides a clean output and voltage control and the production costs are reasonable. With the development of the aquaero 5 we already checked the option to use the digital switching controllers like the aquaero 6 does now, but it would have been way too expensive and also very complicated to produce since some necessary parts had not this high integration that they have today. Advances in technology and so...


I always wondered why you hadn't gone with the digital route on the A5 - didn't realize it would have made such an difference in price. I figured no expense had been spared on the A5s anyway









Glad that technology has made it possible now - the heat build-up was the major thing stopping the A5s from being the perfect unit.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's some nice gear man,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'm planning on an R9 290 with or without the X also, but will most likely wait until the non-reference sku comes available from ASUS, I love the DCU2 cooler on the current GTX780, with the new ASUS fan design. Hoping AquaComputer or someone makes a water block for that ASUS non-ref card.


They're working on the R9 280X version at the moment so chances are 100% they fix one for the 290X aswell


----------



## Quadricwan

EK always does a waterblock for the ASUS cards since ASUS is the biggest manufacturer. It'll show up for sure!


----------



## MeanBruce

Lots of amazing advice from you guys, thank you so much. Decided last night to go ahead and incorporate the new GPU into my first water loop, I'm such a noob. Been researching blocks and this one by AquaComputer with the Kyrographics backplate really stands out. This is for a Titan, hoping Shoggy can reassure me they will produce one with a similar backplate for the R9-290 and/or the R9-290X, even if I have to purchase the reference card.

This workmanship is gorgeous:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/23563_zps94a4dd07.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/23558_zps4612d173.jpg.html

The installation video:






The manufacturing process, very impressive:


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, the pump does not have an interface for a flow sensor.
> 
> The aquaero can handle 14 flow sensors: 2 directly on the aquaero, 8 connected via poweradjust and 4 mps based sensors.


Wow, so it's only the Aquastream that works as an MPS device? And the D5 just gives you control through Aquasuite?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> They're working on the R9 280X version at the moment so chances are 100% they fix one for the 290X aswell


The EK Asus r9 280x block is the same as the 7970 block. You can buy it right now as the r9 280x.

Edit: Sorry for b2b post. Wasn't payin attention


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> They're working on the R9 280X version at the moment so chances are 100% they fix one for the 290X aswell


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> EK always does a waterblock for the ASUS cards since ASUS is the biggest manufacturer. It'll show up for sure!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The EK Asus r9 280x block is the same as the 7970 block. You can buy it right now as the r9 280x.
> 
> Edit: Sorry for b2b post. Wasn't payin attention


They already have the blocks up for sell check out here


----------



## kpoeticg

That's what I just said =P. If you look at a pic of the block it says 7970 Matrix on it =)


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm liking the AquaComputer GPU blocks, and XSPC second, what's so outstanding about the EK blocks?

You do hear about them a lot...


----------



## kpoeticg

Each have their own style. It's really a matter of personal preference. I completely agree with what you just said. I like AC, EK, XSPC, Swiftech, Heatkiller, DT, Mips blocks. I like all of em for different reasons. EK has a better selection of acrylic blocks for one. Alot of people like to see the coolant flowing through the block. They also have a great flowrate

It can also come down to mixing metals and who has the best looking block for the particular metals you want in your loop.

EK has a good selection of Pure Copper/CSQ blocks.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Each have their own style. It's really a matter of personal preference. I completely agree with what you just said. I like AC, EK, XSPC, Swiftech, Heatkiller, DT, Mips blocks. I like all of em for different reasons. EK has a better selection of acrylic blocks for one. Alot of people like to see the coolant flowing through the block. They also have a great flowrate
> 
> It can also come down to mixing metals and who has the best looking block for the particular metals you want in your loop.
> 
> EK has a good selection of Pure Copper/CSQ blocks.


I'd like to pick the materials that provide the greatest cooling. Is there any drawback to copper except the price?

Narrowed it to AquaComputer or the XSPC copper blocks, the latter has a nice LED feature I could do up in red, for my ROG build. But if the AC copper is a better performer I'll go with that.

I'll get over to Martins Lab and start reading.


----------



## kpoeticg

EK has a nice copper block with a Red acrylic top too. And you can put LED's in all their acrylic tops =P. Metal's is a matter of opinion. All block's pretty much have copper because of it's high thermal conductivity. Some are Nickel plated. Alot of people like Nickel plating. Other's will tell you not to mix Nickel and Copper cuz if/when the Nickel flakes off it can ruin all the blocks in your loop. It's a personal decision. If you decide to go full copper and no Nickel it limits you alot more. ALOT of fitting's are Nickel Plated Brass. Brass is fine to mix with Copper. But if you decide on full Copper like me then you'd wanna pay attention to the metal in your fittings too. Life's alot easier & prettier if you don't mind Nickel. So you gotta research that yourself =)


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'd like to pick the materials that provide the greatest cooling. Is there any drawback to copper except the price?
> 
> Narrowed it to AquaComputer or the XSPC copper blocks, the latter has a nice LED feature I could do up in red, for my ROG build. But if the AC copper is a better performer I'll go with that.
> 
> I'll get over to Martins Lab and start reading.


Almost all GPU blocks use copper as the cooling plate. Even acrylic or nickel blocks have copper as the main ingredient per se. Remember as well that the "leading perfomer" varies from year to year and from block to block (i.e. 7970 blocks won't necessarily perform the same as GTX 780 blocks). I think the most up-to-date GPU roundup was the one Stren did, but anyone can call me on that, I haven't looked recently:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/reviews/water-cooling/nvidia-titan-water-block-roundup-coming-soon/

Unfortunately, as far as the 780/Titan blocks go, the Aquacomputer wasn't a top contender. That doesn't mean it won't function perfectly well for standard needs, however. And it still looks the best!

Edit- as Stren points out, they've updated that particular block, but I can't find an updated analysis of it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Almost all GPU blocks use copper as the cooling plate. Even acrylic or nickel blocks have copper as the main ingredient per se.


I tried to say that, sorry if it didn't come across clearly =P
I'm hoping martin is still in the game and is just taking a break. I check his site regularly hoping to see new updates =\


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I tried to say that, sorry if it didn't come across clearly =P
> I'm hoping martin is still in the game and is just taking a break. I check his site regularly hoping to see new updates =\


Haha, my fault I've only today just discovered GPU water blocks, and what they are commonly made of. As long as I don't have to use any special, hard to find fittings with the AquaComputer blocks, I'm going with them. The selection over at Performance-PCS.com is incredible copper and nickel plated, wow. Guess I'll have to wait a few months until the block is available.









I couldn't find any AC fittings in black oh no.

One reviewer was complaining about the AC rads only accepting a certain threaded fitting very uncommon ???, I hope the same is not true for the GPU blocks.


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty much any newish rad or block will have G1/4 threaded ports on it. FrozenCPU usually has better descriptions of the product. If you check it there it should tell you if it has G1/4 ports. G1/4's the standard, some old stuff or converted stuff uses G3/8 or other odd threads. You can get any brand fittings u want. Bitspower is BY FAR the most popular fittings. If a block or rad has particularly shallow threaded ports, it should tell you in the description on FrozenCPU. Otherwise there shouldn't be anything to worry about. Get whatever fittings look good to you. Bitspower are the most popular and have the matching price. Monsoon has a nice selection of fittings if you want something different. Enzotech, and EK have decent fittings too from what i hear. It's alot easier to browse fittings on FrozenCPU cuz you can browse by the size/type you want instead of just the brand.


----------



## seross69

Dose any one have the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechnics with USB and Aquabus Interface. The reason I ask is I am Thinking of trading my 4 Alphacool VPP655 Single Edition pumps for 4 Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechnics with USB and Aquabus Interface with 30 dollars difference for each. Are they quieter than the other pumps and does it speed up smoothly when you need it. I know it will speed up based on setting's you make in the aquasuite but I just wonder if it is smooth or does it make more noise as i it speeds up. I know the faster the more noise but does the control circuit cause any noise..

any information or opinions is greatly needed!!???


----------



## kpoeticg

Well i know it's not a PWM pump. I think the sound your referring to is usually with PWM pumps that are constantly switching speeds. The AC D5 is a D5 Vario. Most people i've seen talk about it don't really change the settings much. Once they get their Flowrate, they leave it on that setting. It basically saves you from having to reach into your case and physically turn that trimpot that alot of people break. Also from the setup you're trying to achieve, grabbing AC D5's with Aquabus would make your Aquaero setup alot easier.

I've never used one so that's all i can offer =P


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> So, you really think that if it would be that easy we would not have already done it...?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you already tried to mount your SMPSU into a 5.25" drive bay - no? Maybe this could be one of many reasons against it


Only the switching portion? If i redesigned it to fit into a 5.25" drive bay it's not a problem


----------



## seross69

If I have a Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechnics with USB and Aquabus Interface hooked up to 24v can the aquaero srill control it through the Aquabus??


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If I have a Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechnics with USB and Aquabus Interface hooked up to 24v can the aquaero srill control it through the Aquabus??


Of course it will, 24v is 24v and USB is USB.
USB is just a logical interface it has nothing to do with the fan controller as long as the D5 is connected to it's own power supply


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, so it's only the Aquastream that works as an MPS device? And the D5 just gives you control through Aquasuite?


The aquastream does not belong to the mps group. The mps (multi purpose sensor) is a controller board that we use for different products. The board within them is always the same but with small difference in the assembly. The following devices belong to this group:

mps flow 100/200/400 sensor
mps pressure delta 40/100/500/1000 sensor
high flow USB sensor
D5 USB pump

The aquastream XT has a different controller. Its controller is also used in the smaller aquaduct variants (it an external watercooling device) for example.

The D5 and the aqustream will bring up their own menu in the aquasuite software when connected via USB. Both can be also connected via aquabus so you can also access them through the aquaero. Please note that the aquabus only offers a very limited range of options compared to USB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I couldn't find any AC fittings in black oh no.
> 
> One reviewer was complaining about the AC rads only accepting a certain threaded fitting very uncommon ???, I hope the same is not true for the GPU blocks.


No idea what you have read there. The radiators and blocks use normal G1/4" threads. The only problem that you might encounter with the airplex modularity radiators is that the threads have a cavity around them. If you use very large threads they might not fit into that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If I have a Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechnics with USB and Aquabus Interface hooked up to 24v can the aquaero srill control it through the Aquabus??


That is no problem. By the way: the higher voltage will not help to let this pump run faster. Internally it only uses 12V. The higher voltage range only increases its compatibility for other purposes like industrial stuff for example.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is no problem. By the way: the higher voltage will not help to let this pump run faster. Internally it only uses 12V. The higher voltage range only increases its compatibility for other purposes like industrial stuff for example.


Really Thank you for this I had read on other sites that sell this pump that it would increase flow and pressure to use 24V.. Glad you told me this...


----------



## X-oiL

I have a question, i'm planning to WC my computer. It has 5 3-pin fans that's currently being controlled by the Asus Fan Xpert software via voltage regulation. The WC-loop will include two radiators, one res and one pump (4-pin). What would I benefit from a AQ Aquaero over just adding the pump to my 4-pin (pwm) motherboard in terms of usability and control?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I have a question, i'm planning to WC my computer. It has 5 3-pin fans that's currently being controlled by the Asus Fan Xpert software via voltage regulation. The WC-loop will include two radiators, one res and one pump (4-pin). What would I benefit from a AQ Aquaero over just adding the pump to my 4-pin (pwm) motherboard in terms of usability and control?


You had better be careful adding a pump to a motherboard header.. you may blow something..

The pump is 4 pin but is it a PMW pump or does it just have a 4 pin connection??

The Aquaero is designed to control fans and pumps to keep you PC as cool and quiet as possible... That is its whole purpose. while a mother board does some of these things but not to well in my opinion.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You had better be careful adding a pump to a motherboard header.. you may blow something..
> 
> The pump is 4 pin but is it a PMW pump or does it just have a 4 pin connection??
> 
> The Aquaero is designed to control fans and pumps to keep you PC as cool and quiet as possible... That is its whole purpose. while a mother board does some of these things but not to well in my opinion.


Haven't bought one yet but have been looking at this one LINK and think that's an actual PWM pump not just a 4pin header.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Haven't bought one yet but have been looking at this one LINK and think that's an actual PWM pump not just a 4pin header.


Yes that is PMW pump... So you could actually power it from the PSU and control it from the motherboard.. but still better if you don't want to touch it use use the Aquaero to control..


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I have a question, i'm planning to WC my computer. It has 5 3-pin fans that's currently being controlled by the Asus Fan Xpert software via voltage regulation. The WC-loop will include two radiators, one res and one pump (4-pin). What would I benefit from a AQ Aquaero over just adding the pump to my 4-pin (pwm) motherboard in terms of usability and control?


Fan Xpert controls your fans based on a temperature sensor which sits on the motherboard under the CPU. This isn't such a bad way to control fans, but is focused on a single measurement. As soon as the CPU is loaded with work, the fans turn on and when your CPU is done, the fans turn off. It's not sensitive to ambient temp, internal case temp or anything else. If you would be doing something that stresses the GPU but not the CPU, then Fan Xpert can't see that.

With an Aquaero you can connect sensors to measure various temperature and construct a strategy with a simple drag-and-drop interface. For example a better strategy to control fans is based on coolant temperature, because when the water gets hotter, it means the fans need to spin faster. It's a much smoother way of reacting to changes in load. Here I show how I made a virtual sensor for the ambient-water delta, then I set up the rad fans to run between 600rpm and 1400rpm, and finally I made a controller based on this delta and set it to keep water temp at 10C higher than ambient air temp. The Aquaero then automatically controls the fans in order to achieve this.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Fan Xpert controls your fans based on a temperature sensor which sits on the motherboard under the CPU. This isn't such a bad way to control fans, but is focused on a single measurement. As soon as the CPU is loaded with work, the fans turn on and when your CPU is done, the fans turn off. It's not sensitive to ambient temp, internal case temp or anything else. If you would be doing something that stresses the GPU but not the CPU, then Fan Xpert can't see that.
> 
> With an Aquaero you can connect sensors to measure various temperature and construct a strategy with a simple drag-and-drop interface. For example a better strategy to control fans is based on coolant temperature, because when the water gets hotter, it means the fans need to spin faster. It's a much smoother way of reacting to changes in load. Here I show how I made a virtual sensor for the ambient-water delta, then I set up the rad fans to run between 600rpm and 1400rpm, and finally I made a controller based on this delta and set it to keep water temp at 10C higher than ambient air temp. The Aquaero then automatically controls the fans in order to achieve this.


Thanks for the explanation I guess that pretty much seals the deal to get one instead of using the MB.

*EDIT* Btw +REP


----------



## seross69

Thanks for this explanation Wisk. I am dead tired from my day at work and was having a hard time explaining what I wanted to.. I hope he can understand the potential now.


----------



## X-oiL

Yeah I understand the potential but after seeing the demo video with 30+ fans it first got me thinking if it was aimed for the hardcore users


----------



## MeanBruce

AquaComputer Aquaero 6 shipping in 7days.









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> AquaComputer Aquaero 6 shipping in 7days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--raphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


Nah, that's not a real date, they've been changing their dates all the time, they do not have an official date.

They previously had October 10th and then changed it to 21st.. I am sure they will change it again when the 21st comes.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Nah, that's not a real date, they've been changing their dates all the time, they do not have an official date.
> 
> They previously had October 10th and then changed it to 21st.. I am sure they will change it again when the 21st comes.


I'm gonna stay positive on this one, Shoggy said late October, looks like I'm ordering from Aquatuning.com, even though Performance-PCs is a 10minute drive, guessing they won't have availability until later.

Hey Shoggy, can I/we go ahead and order the black faceplate for the Aquaero 5 to fit the A6? If you're coming out with a new faceplate for the Aquaero 6 then I'll wait, otherwise ordering today.

Getting excited, giddy like a schoolboy, he was never giddy, even when he was a schoolboy.









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13418_Aquacomputer-Frontblende-f-r-aquaero-5-XT--for-70213--Aluminium-schwarz--neue-Revision-.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, Shoggy replied to me on the AC forums over a month ago about the faceplates. Everything's the same on that end. Only the PCB changed.


----------



## Shoggy

Like kpoeticg said, the faceplate is the same like pretty much all other accessory.


----------



## seross69

Dose anyone know how many Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechnics with USB and Aquabus Interface you can hook to the Aquaero 5 or 6 byt the Aquabus??


----------



## Shoggy

Up to four as long as you do not use any other mps based stuff (mps flow/pressure/fill level sensors).


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Up to four as long as you do not use any other mps based stuff (mps flow/pressure/fill level sensors).


So two pumps shouldn't be a problem assuming I've got an Aqualis Reservoir (Fill sensor) and mps flow. Will using Poweradjust 2 units limit the number further? My understanding was up to 8 items via the aquabus....


----------



## Shoggy

The mentioned setup will be no problem, also when you connect two poweradjust controllers in addition.

The maximum possible configuration is:

*aquabus highspeed*
8x poweradjust (or 1x aquaero 5 LT as slave and 4x poweradjusts)
4x mps based devices
2x aquastream XT pumps

*aquabus low speed*
2x multiswitch
2x tubemeter


----------



## Quadricwan

Thanks Shoggy - +rep for being so damn helpful!


----------



## kpoeticg

Shoggy, any chance you could give me the exact dimensions of the Aquaero 6 Pro? Just the unit with the LCD & Faceplate. No bay hardware. I'm kinda making plans to stuff my HAF XB with more Watercooling than it can handle and i might have to sacrifice a 5.25 bay to a 360 which would mean I'll need to mod the Aquaero into another location.


----------



## Shoggy

143.2 x 42 x 30.2 mm (width x height x depth)


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx brotha. Appreciate it


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx brotha. Appreciate it


you know if you want or need to you can remove the LCD screen and let it all be internal.. That is what I plan on doing if I ever get one??? I have paid just waiting for delivery... hope soon and its not Christmas present!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah I know. I don't plan on using the screen too often, that's why i'm going with the Pro instead of XT. I still like having the screen accessible though to view temps and speeds and whatnot. I MAY mount it in the back in that 2nd PSU bracket i was talking about in ur thread. I'm gonna try to mount it in the front somewhere but I'm pretty sure 30mm is too deep to put in front of the 360 without it sticking noticeably out of the front panel.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah I know. I don't plan on using the screen too often, that's why i'm going with the Pro instead of XT. I still like having the screen accessible though to view temps and speeds and whatnot. I MAY mount it in the back in that 2nd PSU bracket i was talking about in ur thread. I'm gonna try to mount it in the front somewhere but I'm pretty sure 30mm is too deep to put in front of the 360 without it sticking noticeably out of the front panel.


You know if you had a case labs case you would not have to worry about this!!





















sorry could not resit. If you want to see the temps and what not just pull it up on the screen. or log them while you are gaming and look at it latter. I just don't want anything other than USB panels and the Reservoirs to be seen from the front of the case....


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, believe me. When I build a PC that doesn't need to be taken with me when i stay somewhere else for a week, I WILL be getting a CaseLabs. Right now I needed a portable rig though. And the HAF XB is great for full size components in an extremely portable chassis. So far with all the cooling I'm stuffing into it, I still haven't had to remove the handles either







.


----------



## DaveLT

How is the HAF XB portable? It looks hardly portable to me. Saw one and my Xigmatek Asgard Pro case is nearly as big as that thing


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx brotha. Appreciate it


Don't just thank the man +rep the Shoggdog!









I just gave him +6 although he's helped me over a dozen times.

Aquatuning.us is shipping the Aquaero 6 in 4 days I'm ordering Sunday night/Monday morning whichever comes first.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LOL, believe me. When I build a PC that doesn't need to be taken with me when i stay somewhere else for a week, I WILL be getting a CaseLabs. Right now I needed a portable rig though. And the HAF XB is great for full size components in an extremely portable chassis. So far with all the cooling I'm stuffing into it, I still haven't had to remove the handles either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Not sure where you are man, but if within the US, and the timeframe fits your planning, I'll have an M8 in pristine condition sometime next summer, depending on when the Gemini Series becomes available. The M8 is of course the dual compartment cuboidal chassis, the Gemini will incorporate I believe its 3 compartments with a horizontal motherboard mounting and a partial top panel window option along with both side panels available with windows. Not sure just how the lower compartments will be laid out, I'm hoping for PSU and SSD in the left side lower bay so they will "feature" with the case positioned to the users right, along with the front of the video card, now mounted vertically showing its fans in the same view.

The right side lower bay would then be ideal for pumps reservoirs Aquaero 6 internal mounts etc.

That's gonna be a beautiful chassis, and now CaseLabs is offering the matte dark gray along with the black and white, decisions decisions.









edit: sorry for the double post, I forgot, then got carried away, then came back whoops, please forgive.









and kpoeticg, I have all the original packing material for the M8.

...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> How is the HAF XB portable? It looks hardly portable to me. Saw one and my Xigmatek Asgard Pro case is nearly as big as that thing


U sure ur thinking of the HAF XB and not just the HAF X? It's a 13 Inch tall cube that has handles built in. It's EXTREMELY portable. It's big enough to hold full size components. Def the most portable case i know about that can hold a RIVE and 7990's + watercooling
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Don't just thank the man +rep the Shoggdog!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just gave him +6 although he's helped me over a dozen times.
> 
> Aquatuning.us is shipping the Aquaero 6 in 4 days I'm ordering Sunday night/Monday morning whichever comes first.


Why would u think i didn't +rep him? =P
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Not sure where you are man, but if within the US, and the timeframe fits your planning, I'll have an M8 in pristine condition sometime next summer, depending on when the Gemini Series becomes available. The M8 is of course the dual compartment cuboidal chassis, the Gemini will incorporate I believe its 3 compartments with a horizontal motherboard mounting and a partial top panel window option along with both side panels available with windows. Not sure just how the lower compartments will be laid out, I'm hoping for PSU and SSD in the left side lower bay so they will "feature" with the case positioned to the users right, along with the front of the video card, now mounted vertically showing its fans in the same view.
> 
> The right side lower bay would then be ideal for pumps reservoirs Aquaero 6 internal mounts etc.
> 
> That's gonna be a beautiful chassis, and now CaseLabs is offering the matte dark gray along with the black and white, decisions decisions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sorry for the double post, I forgot, then got carried away, then came back whoops, please forgive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and kpoeticg, I have all the original packing material for the M8.
> 
> ...


The M8's an incredible case. I live in Rhode Island. So the shipping wouldn't be far. Yeah i can pretty much guarantee I'd be interested in that. I love CL cases. My HAF XB just suits my needs right now cuz i go back and forth between Mass and RI once or twice a month for like a week at a time.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Aquatuning.us is shipping the Aquaero 6 in 4 days I'm ordering Sunday night/Monday morning whichever comes first.


No, they're not.

You'd reckon that if they were to ship it, Aquacomputer themselves would have it in stock before any retailer since they're the ones producing it...

Aquatuning is frequently known for changing estimated stock arrival dates, I am quite sure on the 21st they will delay the shipping date again.


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Aquatuning is frequently known for changing estimated stock arrival dates, I am quite sure on the 21st they will delay the shipping date again.


Suits me just fine, as I can't afford one yet anyway. Just finished upgrading my stereo system, and I want to make sure I have enough to go with a second 780 or SLI 290/290X (If price-to-performance is worth it).

Computers are not a cheap hobby ....


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The M8's an incredible case. I live in Rhode Island. So the shipping wouldn't be far. Yeah i can pretty much guarantee I'd be interested in that. I love CL cases. My HAF XB just suits my needs right now cuz i go back and forth between Mass and RI once or twice a month for like a week at a time.


AH-HA, got two moving forward at once, nice man nice. A man's best friend can be his duffle bag, I hear ya, I did that for a while right after graduation, then settled down with just one woman an adorable 22year old who's now 23, but oh those memories, they last forever. When you finally decide to hang your hat bro, I'll have the M8 chassis all shined up for ya.









edit addendum: Sally's Pizza is slightly better than PePe's over in New Haven.









...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> No, they're not.
> 
> You'd reckon that if they were to ship it, Aquacomputer themselves would have it in stock before any retailer since they're the ones producing it...
> 
> Aquatuning is frequently known for changing estimated stock arrival dates, I am quite sure on the 21st they will delay the shipping date again.


How about trying on a smile once in a while Mr. Senior Moderator, it can only make things much better.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Aquatuning.us is shipping the Aquaero 6 in 4 days I'm ordering Sunday night/Monday morning whichever comes first.


That is great. We should try to get some from them so we can start shipping too























The last steps in the production are coming closer. The current and very realistic date to start shipping is the week which begins with November 4th. Before you will get it somewhere else it will take a few more days in addition of course.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is great. We should try to get some from them so we can start shipping too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last steps in the production are coming closer. The current and very realistic date to start shipping is the week which begins with November 4th. Before you will get it somewhere else it will take a few more days in addition of course.


So I was right.


----------



## seross69

I just hope its not christmas when i get it!!!!


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is great. We should try to get some from them so we can start shipping too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last steps in the production are coming closer. The current and very realistic date to start shipping is the week which begins with November 4th. Before you will get it somewhere else it will take a few more days in addition of course.


Wow it was pushed back another two weeks? What happened to an early October release?
Aquatuning went from a ship date from 10/3, then 10/11, then 10/21, now 11/4.
Guess I need to cancel the pre order and maybe get it in a few months when it actually comes out


----------



## seross69

get it now that way u dont spend money on something else!!


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I just hope its not christmas when i get it!!!!


lol, wouldn't get your hopes up..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> get it now that way u don't spend money on something else!!


Doesn't look to be out anytime soon. It has been pushed back 1-2 weeks every week for a month now.
With the holidays coming up, will be better to take advantage of the deals instead of waiting.
Esp with AMD's new release, Nvidia also should be lowering their prices.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I just hope its not christmas when i get it!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> lol, wouldn't get your hopes up..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> get it now that way u don't spend money on something else!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Doesn't look to be out anytime soon. It has been pushed back 1-2 weeks every week for a month now.
> With the holidays coming up, will be better to take advantage of the deals instead of waiting.
> Esp with AMD's new release, Nvidia also should be lowering their prices.
Click to expand...

How does this involve AMD or NVidia? This is a fan controller. Last time I checked, Aquacomputer doesn't make GPUs.

Sometimes unforeseen complications arise and it pushes a product back. Your talking about a small company, not Microsoft who has endless amounts of cash and manpower to throw at a problem.


----------



## Quadricwan

I think he's just implying that given a possible GPU price war, now might be a good time for him to put his coins towards a graphics solution


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> How does this involve AMD or NVidia? This is a fan controller. Last time I checked, Aquacomputer doesn't make GPUs.
> 
> Sometimes unforeseen complications arise and it pushes a product back. Your talking about a small company, not Microsoft who has endless amounts of cash and manpower to throw at a problem.


Not sure what you are talking about, implying about $$.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> I think he's just implying that given a possible GPU price war, now might be a good time for him to put his coins towards a graphics solution


Yes, thank you.


----------



## X-oiL

I've turned my eyes on the Aquaero 6 and the D5 pump with USB interface. The question is, is that enough to control my loop and fans or do I have to get some flow and additional temp sensors aswell?


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I've turned my eyes on the Aquaero 6 and the D5 pump with USB interface. The question is, is that enough to control my loop and fans or do I have to get some flow and additional temp sensors aswell?


You probably want one of their temperature sensors for the water in your loop, like these:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291

Personally I think the best feature of Aquaero is to have your fans and pump controlled depending on your loop's temperature.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> [quote name="X-oiL" url="/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/370#post_21018479"]I've turned my eyes on the Aquaero 6 and the D5 pump with USB interface. The question is, is that enough to control my loop and fans or do I have to get some flow and additional temp sensors aswell?


You probably want one of their temperature sensors for the water in your loop, like these:http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291Personally I think the best feature of Aquaero is to have your fans and pump controlled depending on your loop's temperature. [/QUOTE]

Yeah that's what I'm going for, want to control my pump and 6 fans.

Okey so I need that sensor, regarding the fans. It's there any point in going PWM if the controller can't take advantage of all being PWM?


----------



## Quadricwan

No, you certainly don't _need_ any additional temp or flow sensors. The Aquaero 5 on its own, along with virtual sensors, would give you a lot of tools to set up a variety of automatic fan profiles, etc. The flow and temperature sensors are the sort of things you can get if you really want to tinker with all the finest details of a water-cooling setup, but they are far from necessary, or even useful, for the average user. It really just depends on what you want to do.


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> No, you certainly don't _need_ any additional temp or flow sensors. The Aquaero 5 on its own, along with virtual sensors, would give you a lot of tools to set up a variety of automatic fan profiles, etc. The flow and temperature sensors are the sort of things you can get if you really want to tinker with all the finest details of a water-cooling setup, but they are far from necessary, or even useful, for the average user. It really just depends on what you want to do.


I'd like to control 1 pump, 6 fans PWM or regular depending on if the PWM take damage by being controlled by voltage regulation.

The functions I want, is to be able to control the fans+pump depending on the loop temp and be able to automatically shut down the computer if the pump somehow fails.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> No, you certainly don't _need_ any additional temp or flow sensors. The Aquaero 5 on its own, along with virtual sensors, would give you a lot of tools to set up a variety of automatic fan profiles, etc. The flow and temperature sensors are the sort of things you can get if you really want to tinker with all the finest details of a water-cooling setup, but they are far from necessary, or even useful, for the average user. It really just depends on what you want to do.


I have to disagree, using a plug sensor for coolant temp is far easier to set up and give a much more consistent result than running fans based on CPU/GPU core temps or something.

Four simple steps: 1) set fans to the min and max range you find comfortable; 2) make virtual sensor to see the delta between coolant and ambient; 3) make a 'set point' controller to keep that delta at 10C and tell it to which fans to control; 4) sit back and let Aquaero do its job.

I showed these pics before, but worth seeing again how simple it can be.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> I'd like to control 1 pump, 6 fans PWM or regular depending on if the PWM take damage by being controlled by voltage regulation.


Can include pump in step one and step three, just a couple of extra clicks


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> [quote name="Quadricwan" url="/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/380#post_21018718"]No, you certainly don't _need_ any additional temp or flow sensors. The Aquaero 5 on its own, along with virtual sensors, would give you a lot of tools to set up a variety of automatic fan profiles, etc. The flow and temperature sensors are the sort of things you can get if you really want to tinker with all the finest details of a water-cooling setup, but they are far from necessary, or even useful, for the average user. It really just depends on what you want to do.


I have to disagree, using a plug sensor for coolant temp is far easier to set up and give a much more consistent result than running fans based on CPU/GPU core temps or something.Four simple steps: 1) set fans to the min and max range you find comfortable; 2) make virtual sensor to see the delta between coolant and ambient; 3) make a 'set point' controller to keep that delta at 10C and tell it to which fans to control; 4) sit back and let Aquaero do its job.I showed these pics before, but worth seeing again how simple it can be.







[IMG[/URL] ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1690281/width/200/height/400[/IMG][IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1690270/width/200/height/400[/IMG][quote name="X-oiL" url="/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/380#post_21018746"]I'd like to control 1 pump, 6 fans PWM or regular depending on if the PWM take damage by being controlled by voltage regulation. [/quote]Can include pump in step one and step three, just a couple of extra clicks [/QUOTE]

Yeah I remember that pic just didn't remember if the temp sensor was needed or not.

What about being able to shut down the computer automatically if the pump stops?

And PWM vs non-pwm fans?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> What about being able to shut down the computer automatically if the pump stops?
> 
> And PWM vs non-pwm fans?


I believe Aquaero can shut down the computer in two ways: software, by sending a message on the USB; or hardware where it tells the PSU to shut down directly (needs http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636)

PWM fans or not is your choice. Some people prefer direct voltage control, some prefer PWM control. If you get an Aquaero 6 then obviously you can try both types. I would recommend for PWM the Noiseblocker eLoop B12P, and for voltage fans of course the quiet power of Gentle Typhoon AP14 or AP15.


----------



## Danisumi

Can someone tell me, what the diffrence between the LT XT version etc are? I can't seem to find that in the internet.

Which accessories are actually combatible with the Aquaero 6, I mean like the Poweradjust etc.

would be nice if someone can help me


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-oiL*
> 
> Yeah I remember that pic just didn't remember if the temp sensor was needed or not.
> 
> What about being able to shut down the computer automatically if the pump stops?
> 
> And PWM vs non-pwm fans?


I would get the PWM fans and pumps you can then control as many fans and pumps as you want to with all 4 channels of the AQ6 being PWM heafers.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> Can someone tell me, what the diffrence between the LT XT version etc are? I can't seem to find that in the internet.
> 
> Which accessories are actually combatible with the Aquaero 6, I mean like the Poweradjust etc.
> 
> would be nice if someone can help me


The LT is just the PCB with no Screen. There's no LT version of the Aquaero 6. The XT has a few more buttons than the Pro, it also comes with the remote. You can still buy the remote as an accessory for the Pro tho. That's basically the only differences. So far, it seems the only accessories that are compatible with the 5 and not the 6 is the waterblock


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The LT is just the PCB with no Screen. There's no LT version of the Aquaero 6. The XT has a few more buttons than the Pro, it also comes with the remote. You can still buy the remote as an accessory for the Pro tho. That's basically the only differences. So far, it seems the only accessories that are compatible with the 5 and not the 6 is the waterblock


that is only difference. if you want ugly screen to be shown get the pro or XT the xt has the remote!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm in the Pro + Remote category. Still cheaper than the XT. Most people don't use the buttons on the unit that often.


----------



## seross69

yes get the AQ6 if you want or need the pwm functions and if you want you can take off screen..


----------



## kpoeticg

I CAN'T wait to get a 6. I got my 5 Pro + accessories in the mail the day b4 the 6 was announced. I sent the Pro + Waterblock back that day. Still kept the remote, faceplate, and other random accessories. It's kinda funny though cuz all the changes i've made with my plans since then, I think I'm only gonna need 1 PWM channel now LOLLLL......go figure


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I CAN'T wait to get a 6. I got my 5 Pro + accessories in the mail the day b4 the 6 was announced. I sent the Pro + Waterblock back that day. Still kept the remote, faceplate, and other random accessories. It's kinda funny though cuz all the changes i've made with my plans since then, I think I'm only gonna need 1 PWM channel now LOLLLL......go figure


u will have THEM IF YOU NEED THEM AND PLAN ON OTHER ITEMS BEING pmw.


----------



## skupples

Why is the image of the unit on aquatuning different than what is shown in the hardware demo video?(rhetorical mostly)
Edit: I See, two models exist. XT & PRO. I assume the difference is the touch screen & remote?



Also, can anyone tell me what that fan splitter is in the video? I'm not a huge fan of the modmytoy's strips, and the Bitspower ones' seem to be molex driven, which in my experience means perma 100% (@least that's how the modmytoy molex one's function)

I would love to toss this thing inside my 900D to power my fans + mcp35x2... May not have the space with my already owned Maelstrom(w/ pumps) & UT60 going in the top of my 900D & 360 modded in the front...


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah I know, u just have no idea how hard i looked for a way to mod a 2nd PWM channel on a 5 Pro. Probly spent like 2 months researching PWM and how to create a PWM circuit so i could control my 35x and 140 Akasa Vipers with PWM on seperate channels. Then the 6 Pro was announced and it made my day. Now i'm ditching my 280 rad for another 360, so have no need for anything other than GT's =P.


----------



## SinatraFan

Does anyone know what the connector was that they used in that demo video to connect 20 fans to one channel? it showed up at about 20 seconds into the video.


----------



## skupples

Was wondering the same thing. I don't see it on their website, and frozencpu only sells Perforance PC ModMyToy' variants.


----------



## Quadricwan

I can't find the post, but I believe Shoggy said it was just a rough n' dirty homemade fan splitter that would never see the light of day from a consumer perspective.


----------



## kpoeticg

Def looks like a homemade PCB with a bunch of fan headers on it. You'd achieve the same thing with a ModMyToys PCB and a few 3/4/5 way Y-Splitters

You're cable routing would be alot cleaner this way too


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I believe Aquaero can shut down the computer in two ways: software, by sending a message on the USB; or hardware where it tells the PSU to shut down directly (needs http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636)


There is even a third way which is also my personal favorite. You can connect the power button of the case parallel to the relay of the aquaero. This way the aquaero can "push" the button.

Other than the USB keyboard it will also shut down the system when Windows is not responding anymore or a program blocks the shut down and you will need no ugly ATX break adapter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Also, can anyone tell me what that fan splitter is in the video?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Does anyone know what the connector was that they used in that demo video to connect 20 fans to one channel?


It is just a small laboratory PCB where we soldered a bunch of fan headers on it for the demonstration. It is no regular product.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> There is even a third way which is also my personal favorite. You can connect the power button of the case parallel to the relay of the aquaero. This way the aquaero can "push" the button.
> 
> Other than the USB keyboard it will also shut down the system when Windows is not responding anymore or a program blocks the shut down and you will need no ugly ATX break adapter.


Nice idea, pity I just sleeved all my front panel cables


----------



## kcuestag

Aquatuning changed their shipping dates from 21st (Today) to 28th... Told ya.


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL, I think the word Aquatuning needs to be permanently sensored out on this particular thread.


----------



## IT Diva

Does anyone know what frequency the Aquaero uses for its PWM?

Darlene


----------



## seross69

I think shoggy said 15k does this sound right??


----------



## kpoeticg

The LED/RGB PWM headers are 16kHZ. I'm assuming the Fan PWM headers are 25kHZ. I could be wrong tho


----------



## WiSK

Pretty sure it's 25kHz for the fan channel. Can't find it in documentation though.


----------



## kpoeticg

That seems to be the "Standard"
That's why i assumed it. I'm sure Shoggy will chime in when he's around though


----------



## Shoggy

The two PWM ports are 16 kHz and the fan headers use 25 kHz which is given by Intels design guide for 4-pin fans.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The two PWM ports are 16 kHz and the fan headers use 25 kHz which is given by Intels design guide for 4-pin fans.


Thanks for the confirmation









Not everyone follows the standard.

I'm looking at the new Aqaero 6 to use instead of a CW611, but I need 6 fan channels (all 3 pin fans). The 6 PWM pumps are all covered by their own controller.

Is there an "expansion" unit of some kind to get 2 more fan channels?

4 of the channels have 6 fans each with a measured running current of ~2.1Amps/chan

The other 2 channels have 4 fans each with running current at ~1.4A/chan

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

You can still use a 5 LT as a slave device with an Aquaero 6. That'll give 4 more fan channels. Just no extra PWM, which doesn't sound like u need anyway


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You can still use a 5 LT as a slave device with an Aquaero 6. That'll give 4 more fan channels. Just no extra PWM, which doesn't sound like u need anyway


The 5LT has a max of 1.65A/chan, so I guess if I used it for the 2 X 4 fan chans, it would be OK.

I also see there is a 5A combined max output for all 4 chans for the 5 series.

What's the combined max for the 6 series, is it published yet, all I saw was 30W/chan, which would be 2.5A, but don't recall seeing if you could max out all the chans simultaneously.

Is there a water cooling option for the 6 when it ships, or maybe later if not?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

It's 2.5 with no waterblock. Supposedly 3 when they release the waterblock

As long as you split up 2 of those fans on 1 and 2 fans on channel 3/ or 2 and 4 u should be ok with the LT + Waterblock. I'm sure Shoggy will know better than me though. The channels next to each other share either Voltage Regulator's or fuses on the 5 series

They're supposed to release a waterblock for the 6. I don't think it's supposed to be available at launch though.

I can't find the total combined amps either. Maybe Shoggy'll chime in when he's around


----------



## Shoggy

The 1.65A at the aquaero 5 are only possible when you watercool the voltage regulators.

The aquaero 6 can provide the full power throughout all channels so you have 120W in total. Keep in mind that the wires from the PSU could be a problem because normally they are not designed for this kind of power (if you would take it to the maximum).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The 1.65A at the aquaero 5 are only possible when you watercool the voltage regulators.
> 
> The aquaero 6 can provide the full power throughout all channels so you have 120W in total. Keep in mind that the wires from the PSU could be a problem because normally they are not designed for this kind of power (if you would take it to the maximum).


Thanks,

Looks like I can use the new 6 with a 5LT to get 6 fan control channels with the current capacity required.
















Do I need to watercool the 5LT to use it for the 2 channels with the 1.4A loads, or will it do that much on air?

I have the ampacity in the power wiring, so no issues there . . . . .

A quick question though, how is the power transferred from the molex on the PCB to all the voltage regs, . . . the single 12V molex pin having to carry 10A is pushing it. . . . Better a parallel pair of molex connectors to split the load on each.

Thanks again for all the details Shoggy,

Darlene


----------



## skupples

I just need to find some where to stick this thing inside my 900D... No space in the bay's w/ rad & Maelstrom.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I just need to find some where to stick this thing inside my 900D... No space in the bay's w/ rad & Maelstrom.





See? SIMPLE
Problem Solved. Your Welcome!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do I need to watercool the 5LT to use it for the 2 channels with the 1.4A loads, or will it do that much on air?


If you use channel 1 and 4 with the passive heatsink and some air flow that could work. It will mainly depend on the specific power consumption.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do I need to watercool the 5LT to use it for the 2 channels with the 1.4A loads, or will it do that much on air?
> 
> 
> 
> If you use channel 1 and 4 with the passive heatsink and some air flow that could work. It will mainly depend on the specific power consumption.
Click to expand...

That's excellent . . . .

One more, possibly dumb question, is it possible to use the 5 Pro with its display, instead of the 5LT, with the new 6 to get the 5th and 6th fan channel I need?

In as much as the LT takes up a bay space, I'd like to have some additional display area.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

No, that is not possible. The aquasuite will only offer the option to flash the special firmware when an aquaero 5 LT is connected. Even if you would connect the display afterwards again, it will just stay blank because the slave firmware is reduced to the four fan channels and temperature sensors.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, that is not possible. The aquasuite will only offer the option to flash the special firmware when an aquaero 5 LT is connected. Even if you would connect the display afterwards again, it will just stay blank because the slave firmware is reduced to the four fan channels and temperature sensors.


Shazaaaaaammmmm,

That was a quick reply!

I didn't think it could work, but had to ask to be sure.

I'll order the LT and heatsink today, and try to wait patiently for the 6 arrive in the US.

Thanks again for all the help.

Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

Ask her out Shoggdawg. Can talk Aquaeros over dinner and into the night.


----------



## Shoggy

Mhh, what?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Mhh, what?


Just joking man, I'm looking at your Shoggy Sandwich pump noise dampening device right now, going to use it or possibly four small 1cm Sorbothane hemispheres for my pump top/base isolation.

Is the A6 still GO for November week 1?

Shoggy would you be able to tell us when Performance PCs and Frozen CPU place their orders with your company for the Aquaero 6?

If they are traveling across the Atlantic that would give US customers a few days heads-up.









Thanks...


----------



## Shoggy

At the moment the date looks still good.

I can not talk about the business of other companies. You will have to ask them yourself for a possible delivery date.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Ask her out Shoggdawg. Can talk Aquaeros over dinner and into the night.


IT Diva is a Goddess amongst us lowly Watercoolers & Modders


----------



## skupples

I need idea's as to where to stash one of these in a 900D with no drive bay space!


----------



## kpoeticg

The pic i posted for u wasn't even "Idea" worthy? The "Simple. Problem Solved" part was meant to be funny but something along those lines could work out. I can post the build log i grabbed that from if you want. I've never worked in a 900D so that's all i can offer


----------



## skupples

I must of missed it.







I'm sorry! i'll go find it now!

That would work! I would just need to get custom fab mobo standoff plate thingamajigger.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The pic i posted for u wasn't even "Idea" worthy? The "Simple. Problem Solved" part was meant to be funny but something along those lines could work out. I can post the build log i grabbed that from if you want. I've never worked in a 900D so that's all i can offer


The dude lives in Florida, like me he's lucky if he knows what day it is.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> That would work! I would just need to get custom fab mobo standoff plate thingamajigger.


Lol, that's why i let u know i was joking about the "Simple. Problem Solved" But especially if you get the XT or Pro + Remote, you can really put it anywhere you can see it. I'll pm u the build log. It's actually the MNPCTech Rebel Alliance Build. Worthwhile read regardless

It's not a 900D. I just showed it cuz it's not in a drive bay and still looks awesome!!


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm voting for an AquaComputer Aquaero 6 Installation Party right here Whoop!









Can we bring music?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The dude lives in Florida, like me he's lucky if he knows what day it is.


(did you see what's finally on the 2014 ballot?)









This thing is synced up to come available same time as my motherboard. Figure what the hell. I don't have any other way to properly control my fan's on the rebuild. Sigh, but of course had to dump 1,500$ into the Mazda 6... So that's setting things back by a week or two.


----------



## MeanBruce




----------



## cookiesowns

Does anyone have the manual to the Aquero 6?

Would love to see each specific channel specification, as well as the other headers as well. EG: LED control, aquabus/USB etc. What I can connect to it, and so on so forth.


----------



## Shoggy

The manual is not finished yet but it is in progress.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cookiesowns*
> 
> Does anyone have the manual to the Aquero 6?
> 
> Would love to see each specific channel specification, as well as the other headers as well. EG: LED control, aquabus/USB etc. What I can connect to it, and so on so forth.


I'm pretty sure, besides the fan channels, all the other stuff you just asked will be the same as the Aquaero 5 Manual.
And the fan channel specs are 2.5A per header and now they all have PWM capability. I know the PCB's gonna arranged differently because they put the Molex Power Header in a more convenient spot, but all that other info should be the same


----------



## cookiesowns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure, besides the fan channels, all the other stuff you just asked will be the same as the Aquaero 5 Manual.
> And the fan channel specs are 2.5A per header and now they all have PWM capability. I know the PCB's gonna arranged differently because they put the Molex Power Header in a more convenient spot, but all that other info should be the same


Are there more than 4 channels on the Aquero? Doesn't explain why there's 8 4pin fan headers.

I'm guessing the tightly grouped 4 are the fan channels, and the others are for aquabus and various other connections such as LED and what not?

NVM FOUND IT:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/10#post_20721461


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah just like on the Aquaero 5. That's what i was trying to say. The PCB's changed a LITTLE bit because the old Molex location was a PITA for alot of people. But the Aquaero 5 Manual would walk you through all that stuff


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> At the moment the date looks still good.
> 
> I can not talk about the business of other companies. You will have to ask them yourself for a possible delivery date.


any update? thanks


----------



## Shoggy

Still in time with my last assumption. End of the next week looks good so far.


----------



## Danisumi

Shoggy, how long does it take to get the waterblocks for the Aquaero 6?

Will they/it come out in November or not?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> Shoggy, how long does it take to get the waterblocks for the Aquaero 6?
> 
> Will they/it come out in November or not?


Does it even need a waterblock is entirely beyond me. The circuit is already said to be finally PWM-type instead of a variable linear regulator


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Does it even need a waterblock is entirely beyond me. The circuit is already said to be finally PWM-type instead of a variable linear regulator


That's true, but the waterblock was a necessity for the Aquaero 5. Shoggy's said that the waterblock on the Aquaero 6 will increase the Amps Per Channel from 2.5 to 3. And most importantly.......Why Not


----------



## seross69

I want mine NOW.... Don't know why because I am not ready but I do...


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> Shoggy, how long does it take to get the waterblocks for the Aquaero 6?
> 
> Will they/it come out in November or not?


We have no date for it since it is also pretty unnecessary







Keep in mind that would mean 144W through a normal 4-pin wire of a PSU. Normally it is designed for 5A (60W).


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We have no date for it since it is also pretty unnecessary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that would mean 144W through a normal 4-pin wire of a PSU. Normally it is designed for 5A (60W).


Oki doki, maybe I'll try to run it first, then I'll decide if I need the waterblock


----------



## SinatraFan

So if I have 27 fans like this



will this controller by itself be enough?


----------



## Shoggy

What fan is this? Any specs available?

I think it should be no problem given the fact that our performance demonstration had 40 fans and two pumps.


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero 6 will have a sticker like the aquaero 5 where every connector is labeled. Everything is also listed in the manual of course.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> What fan is this? Any specs available?
> 
> I think it should be no problem given the fact that our performance demonstration had 40 fans and two pumps.


I can't find the specs for the Cougar fans anywhere, but they are rated at 0.3A I was thinking about the video before I wrote this, but really want to be sure. Are those fans in the video running at full speed? Have they been throttled down during that example? Again, just want to be sure before I plunk down $$$ on the controller.

BTW, are they shipping yet? Or do they have a definitive date yet?


----------



## Shoggy

The fans in the video run at full speed.

We hope to have the first devices ready by the end of the next week.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The fans in the video run at full speed.
> 
> We hope to have the first devices ready by the end of the next week.


1 of these across each channel will really stress it's capabilities


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The fans in the video run at full speed.
> 
> We hope to have the first devices ready by the end of the next week.


is it really that hard to estimate a launch date? Don't get me wrong, but it's getting delayed and delayed......







on the other side, please make them perfect......


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> is it really that hard to estimate a launch date? Don't get me wrong, but it's getting delayed and delayed......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the other side, please make them perfect......


I'm sure it can be with a device as complex as this. I prefer the way Shoggy handles this instead of other companies that give definitive dates that people plan for and then get disappointed...


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The fans in the video run at full speed.
> 
> We hope to have the first devices ready by the end of the next week.
> 
> 
> 
> is it really that hard to estimate a launch date? Don't get me wrong, but it's getting delayed and delayed......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the other side, please make them perfect......
Click to expand...

Make a product like this and let us know.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a product like this and let us know.


nah, I can't....







, just tired of the delays, awaiting one of the last puzzles. But it's a puzzle I can wait a bit longer for


----------



## Anna Zou

amazing!


----------



## MeanBruce

Aquatuning.com is shipping the Aquaero 6 in just three short days! I know, I need to stop saying that.









http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


----------



## kpoeticg

They've changed their date too many times already. I'm pretty sure Shoggy will know before they will


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Aquatuning.com is shipping the Aquaero 6 in just three short days! I know, I need to stop saying that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html


I'll believe it when Shoggy comes in here to say it's true!


----------



## pilotter

great, come in Shoggy


----------



## SinatraFan

Whats the difference between the 6 Pro and the 6 XT


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Whats the difference between the 6 Pro and the 6 XT


The Aquaero 6 Pro adds a graphic LCD and three input buttons, IR receiver, plus a heat sink, yet no remote control. The Aquaero 6 XT has everything from the Pro but instead uses 4 programmable touch soft keys, three LED soft touch navigation buttons, and includes the remote control.

The XT front panel also looks much more sophisticated than the Pro, but it costs about $50 more.

Might as well go Aquaero 6 XT and get the full experience.

Hoping Shoggy can add to this.


----------



## X-Nine

My bank account is ready.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> My bank account is ready.


truth.. Just gotta figure out where it's going in my 900Dizzle.


----------



## kpoeticg

The reason most people end up goin with the Pro, is Aquasuite has so many options that you end up setting the whole thing up in windows. And once you have it setup, you have no reason to touch any buttons really


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Aquatuning.com is shipping the Aquaero 6 in just three short days! I know, I need to stop saying that.


I still want their time machine









We are preparing the last steps to program the devices. Normally the first devices should be dispatched by the end of this week.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The Aquaero 6 Pro adds a graphic LCD and three input buttons, IR receiver, *plus a heat sink*, yet no remote control. The Aquaero 6 XT has everything from the Pro but instead uses 4 programmable touch soft keys, three LED soft touch navigation buttons, and includes the remote control.


None of the aquaero 6 devices comes with a heat sink since it is unnecessary.


----------



## lemniscate

by the way, I noticed from my Aquaero 5 that sometimes when I unplug a fan cable, the plastic part of the fan connector on the board gets lifted a bit, is that normal? or did I pull too hard?


----------



## Shoggy

The pins are soldered to the board but it is possible to pull out the plastic socket since it is only plugged to the pins.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> by the way, I noticed from my Aquaero 5 that sometimes when I unplug a fan cable, the plastic part of the fan connector on the board gets lifted a bit, is that normal? or did I pull too hard?


I wouldn't worry. A lot of motherboard fan headers are the exact same way.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, my cheap Sunbeam Rheobus that i grabbed for $8.99 from PPCs as a placeholder does the same thing. The pins even get pulled out a little bit. Can just push em back though. As long as you keep the connection sealed it's nothing to worry about.

Aquatuning - Shipping date: 15.11.2013

Only 8 short days....


----------



## Shoggy

The aquasuite 2013 software has been updated to version 3 and can be downloaded *here.*

This version is already prepared for the aquaero 6. The shipping of these devices will start tomorrow. Version 3 contains some new features while some others have been improved. Also the aquaero 5 profits from these changes since software-wise it uses pretty much the same base.

Here is a list of the changes:

*New features*

The aquaero 6 has been integrated
The curve controller settings have been completely over-worked. The handling has become more intuitional and offers more options, also inverted curves are possible now.
For Windows 8.1 a feature has been added which disables the "selective suspend" mode for USB (only for the specific device). This will solve the problem that the aquastream XT restarts several times without a reason.
*Changes and bug fixes in the aquasuite*

Some information sites and texts have been changed and harmonized
Scaling and displaying problems with the gauge element have been fixed
The gauge element can also show a scaling below 1 now
The option to change the data source only shows valid data sources now
Some users had problems that not all menu entries on the left were available. This has been fixed.
It is no longer possible to create faulty configurations when more than one device is attached to the PC
Graphic bug in Windows 8 has been fixed
Aqua Computer D5 USB pumps (aquabus) are available in the pump menu now
D5 pump data are available in the overview pages now
The rotation speed of the aquastream XT is available now (when connected via aquabus)

*Firmware changes*

*MPS (flow and pressure sensors)*
- There have been small aberrations for the temperature sensor at about 30°C. This has been fixed.

*aquaero 5/6 and aquaduct mk IV/V*
- Improvements for the stability of the USB communication
- Accelerated USB communication, especially when used with larger data blocks like log data or upcoming firmware updates
- Visual glitches on some display pages have been fixed
- Constant value controller: only the first eight controllers have been taken into account. This problem is solved now.
- MPS temperatures internal/external were swapped. Has been fixed.
- When displaying the power consumption it had the wrong title bar. Has been fixed.
- Timer: the internal handling has been changed so it will not happen anymore that the aquaero might skip an event under specific circumstances.
- Curve controller settings on the device: it was possible to generate invalid curves. Has been fixed.
- It was possible that the device tries to use a larger display area than the real available area. This has been fixed.
- A downgrade of the firmware is not possible anymore. It is also not possible when the recovery mode is used.

*Remote control*
- Buttons for mouse, volume and mute are available in all modes now
- Mode selection between PC and aquaero has been changed
- The icon for the selected mode will be only visible in the PC mode now


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The pins are soldered to the board but it is possible to pull out the plastic socket since it is only plugged to the pins.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I wouldn't worry. A lot of motherboard fan headers are the exact same way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, my cheap Sunbeam Rheobus that i grabbed for $8.99 from PPCs as a placeholder does the same thing. The pins even get pulled out a little bit. Can just push em back though. As long as you keep the connection sealed it's nothing to worry about.


thanks. it's my first PC build, so I know almost nothing about these stuffs... I learned everything only from occassionally watching my dad.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquasuite 2013 software has been updated to version 3 and can be downloaded *here.*
> 
> This version is already prepared for the aquaero 6. The shipping of these devices will start tomorrow. Version 3 contains some new features while some others have been improved. Also the aquaero 5 profits from these changes since software-wise it uses pretty much the same base.
> 
> *snip*


looks like some great improvements there... will try it when I have time. glad that you offer new features for older devices as well.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, my cheap Sunbeam Rheobus that i grabbed for $8.99 from PPCs as a placeholder does the same thing. The pins even get pulled out a little bit. Can just push em back though. As long as you keep the connection sealed it's nothing to worry about.
> 
> Aquatuning - Shipping date: 15.11.2013
> 
> Only 8 short days....


Whoohoo, I'm so Psyched, I'm Psychedelic.









Oh no, Norton just told me NOT to install AquaSuite 3.0, Needs Attention! Unsafe! What gives Shoggdawg?


----------



## kpoeticg

It's probly just a false positive because it has access to so much of your pc. That is unless you downloaded from somewhere besides the AC website....


----------



## Shoggy

Any further questions?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Any further questions?


Just one.

When I tried to install AquaSuite 3.0 I got this error message:

"500 Internal Server Error

Sorry, something went wrong!

A team of highly trained monkeys has been dispatched to deal with this situation!

Also, please include the following information in your error report:

yPfJg6QM3hYpH6YtilkeDbcPSTPMCKCAjxAxhcqEH5zAwpv8_YjzPy7ENPZh
5eQstUWfSk4vQDy7s3VO573ifyukeV7R0DyOm34Pw1q0ki5WSe5Y4MCFWmVM
pqLh_20Zfjb98Vv37uzdH7DthvvTY5lTxz-JrPFoUB1qqL0zz_N2-XsvkAUj"

Now what do I do?


----------



## kpoeticg

Sounds like you might need to set Norton to ignore Aquasuite cuz it's denying it the permissions it needs


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Sounds like you might need to set Norton to ignore Aquasuite cuz it's denying it the permissions it needs


That's easy enough, but what about those damn monkeys on the way?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's easy enough, but what about those damn monkeys on the way?


You've never seen Wizard of Oz?
HIDE!!!!!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Oh no, Norton just told me NOT to install AquaSuite 3.0, Needs Attention! Unsafe! What gives Shoggdawg?


You're using Norton. That's the only problem.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> When I tried to install AquaSuite 3.0 I got this error message:
> 
> (..)


That is not coming from us. It is a typical phrase from several Google websites. I can only assume that your system is missing some Visual C++ libraries. The aquasuite checks that and other stuff while the installation and opens the download location of the missing files. Normally there should be also a message box from the setup which tells you that you have to install these files at first.

If that is the problem, you can get the files here: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=30679


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is not coming from us. It is a typical phrase from several Google websites. I can only assume that your system is missing some Visual C++ libraries. The aquasuite checks that and other stuff while the installation and opens the download location of the missing files. Normally there should be also a message box from the setup which tells you that you have to install these files at first.
> 
> If that is the problem, you can get the files here: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=30679


Now the error message is requesting I hand the information over to the monkeys when they arrive.









What?


----------



## Shoggy

No idea, but there must be something messed up with your system files. The aquasuite requires the .NET framework and the already mentioned Visual C++ libraries. Both are normally already present when you use a current Windows system.


----------



## IT Diva

Is there any harm installing the software on a PC other than the one the Aquaero is going in to get an idea of what it looks like?

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

No it works fine without any devices.


----------



## Shoggy

But you will see not anything without a device


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No it works fine without any devices.


Thanks,

+R

I got a message on trying to install to install the C++ SP1 and the latest .NET framework 4, and after doing so, it installed without a hitch.

I run Kaspersky PURE 3.0

I wasn't expecting to see anything with no hardware to see, but was curious about the install.

Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is there any harm installing the software on a PC other than the one the Aquaero is going in to get an idea of what it looks like?
> 
> Darlene


AquaSuite 3.0 looks Awesome, even without devices, so many logs and charts and analysis!

Whooop!

Temperature Sensor 1 Aussen

Temperature Sensor 2 Innen

Hahahaha.

Love IT!









Those monkeys were just messin' with me.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, my cheap Sunbeam Rheobus that i grabbed for $8.99 from PPCs as a placeholder does the same thing. The pins even get pulled out a little bit. Can just push em back though. As long as you keep the connection sealed it's nothing to worry about.
> 
> Aquatuning - Shipping date: 15.11.2013
> 
> Only 8 short days....


Good luck, seems like were all gonna be waiting along... time!!

I placed an order back in September 30, 2013. Easily 600+ USD worth of stuff from the aquatuning site.
They do not want to ship out my items due to Aquaeros 6 not being in stock.

The first date for Aquaeros 6 to be in stock was 10/6/13
then they pushed it to 10/28/13, then 11/8/13...
Now its 11/15/2013

I even proposed an idea where they can deliver my stuff even though the aquaeros 6 wasn't in stock and said they don't want to make 2 separate deliveries.
More then a month has passed and I haven't received anything. Would've at-least been nice to get partial stuff. Worst Customer Service I have ever had, you would think that some sort of compensation or at-least aid in facilitating to get my stuff would occur but nope not one bit.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Good luck, seems like were all gonna be waiting along... time!!
> 
> I placed an order back in September 30, 2013. Easily 600+ USD worth of stuff from the aquatuning site.
> They do not want to ship out my items due to Aquaeros 6 not being in stock.
> 
> The first date for Aquaeros 6 to be in stock was 10/6/13
> then they pushed it to 10/28/13, then 11/8/13...
> Now its 11/15/2013
> 
> I even proposed an idea where they can deliver my stuff even though the aquaeros 6 wasn't in stock and said they don't want to make 2 separate deliveries.
> More then a month has passed and I haven't received anything. Would've at-least been nice to get partial stuff. Worst Customer Service I have ever had, you would think that some sort of compensation or at-least aid in facilitating to get my stuff would occur but nope not one bit.


Lol poor guy believes the 11/15 date is true, they will just change it to 11/22 next week, like what they do....every....week....
I heard it was suppose to be released early October, maybe Germany is on a different calendar system??

I had a big order with Aquatuning also, after the A6 was pushed back a week, I was like "ok, whatever. I can wait another week" then after the second week; it was pushed back another week, then I said "F**k that" cancelled my preorder and placed a new order so I could actually get the parts I needed. Glad I did, would have waited over a month for my parts! lol

I havn't been on this thread in a while, cant people you people are still waiting!


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Lol poor guy believes the 11/15 date is true, they will just change it to 11/22 next week, like what they do....every....week....
> I heard it was suppose to be released early October, maybe Germany is on a different calendar system??
> 
> I had a big order with Aquatuning also, after the A6 was pushed back a week, I was like "ok, whatever. I can wait another week" then after the second week; it was pushed back another week, then I said "F**k that" cancelled my preorder and placed a new order so I could actually get the parts I needed. Glad I did, would have waited over a month for my parts! lol
> 
> I havn't been on this thread in a while, cant people you people are still waiting!


well but if they keep telling you "next week , next week, next week"Maybe better they will not give a release date, or wait till it's out. I made the same mistake.......paid for it 6 weeks ago :


----------



## Shoggy

The manual is available as *download* now


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The manual is available as *download* now


Excellent! This is extremely helpful information and I'm glad it's finally all in one place! thanks for listening to community feedback and putting together this manual! I <3 Aquacomputer


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Good luck, seems like were all gonna be waiting along... time!!










= Joking


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Good luck, seems like were all gonna be waiting along... time!!
> 
> I placed an order back in September 30, 2013. Easily 600+ USD worth of stuff from the aquatuning site.
> They do not want to ship out my items due to Aquaeros 6 not being in stock.
> 
> The first date for Aquaeros 6 to be in stock was 10/6/13
> then they pushed it to 10/28/13, then 11/8/13...
> Now its 11/15/2013
> 
> I even proposed an idea where they can deliver my stuff even though the aquaeros 6 wasn't in stock and said they don't want to make 2 separate deliveries.
> More then a month has passed and I haven't received anything. Would've at-least been nice to get partial stuff. Worst Customer Service I have ever had, you would think that some sort of compensation or at-least aid in facilitating to get my stuff would occur but nope not one bit.


Lots of places won't ship until everything is in stock - especially when they're shipping internationally. I've only ever been super impressed with Aquatuning's customer service. They've helped me out on several occasions by sending extra screws & bits without any hastle. Not to mention the fact that their orders arrive at my door, in Canada, from Germany, faster than any Canadian retailer and with comparable shipping fees. They're also the one of the only distributors of water-cooling gear that covers all customs and duty fees.

In any case, I can't wait to remove my Aquaero 5 from my loop and just run it on air - so much more convenient! I'll place an order once it's in stock, and hopefully they'll have a new batch of Monsoon fittings by then (been waiting on those for MONTHS!).


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> and hopefully they'll have a new batch of Monsoon fittings by then (been waiting on those for MONTHS!).


Tell me about it. I ordered 6 white monsoon rotaries in July. Estimated date on AT now says 23 November


----------



## pilotter

now I think it's shipping, got info from Versandbestätigung Aqua Computer GmbH & Co. KG


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanks for the manual Shoggy, looks like I'll be picking up my Aquaero 6 at Performance-PCs.com. I live just 10minutes from their office/warehouse so free shipping, umm no shipping actually, just place my order in the morning and drive over to pick up same day, gotta love it.

Getting ready to delid my 3770K, got the CoolLaboratories Liquid Pro standing by, some surgical instruments from school, wish me luck, and if you never hear from me again, just assume something went terribly wrong.
























I tell ya, doing this, ya gotta be a little crazy!

It's Friday, we need some music:


----------



## pilotter

great manual guys, no more searching on the internet


----------



## VSG

Anyone know when PPC will have it available for order?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone know when PPC will have it available for order?


I mailed Jim the owner. Probably will not hear back until Monday, I'll post the A6 availability info here.

Yea Monday, when my new 3770K arrives.


----------



## kpoeticg

I've had a store credit at PPCs sitting there since the A6 got announced and i returned my 5 Pro. Hopefully they have it in stock soon. I've been leaving it there for the Aquaero 6.


----------



## VSG

lol I called up FrozenCPU and Bucky pretty much laughed when I asked him if he expected the Aquaero 6 to be available next week. Anyway he said he would email their Aquacomputer rep (Sven?) and get back to me soon.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I called up FrozenCPU and Bucky pretty much laughed when I asked him if he expected the Aquaero 6 to be available next week. Anyway he said he would email their Aquacomputer rep (Sven?) and get back to me soon.


Sven IS the Shoggdogg.









The Aquaero 6 will be here by Thanksgiving at least so easily worth the wait there are no other products like the Aquaero 6 available anywhere else on this planet.

This goes out to the Aquaero 6 and the Shoggdogg:

So many thanks...

This is OCN Friday Night!


----------



## VSG

I got a ton of stuff in my PPC cart in the hopes that this is available next week. If not, I will eat the double shipping cost and order this later.


----------



## X-Nine

Just put my order in for A6 XT and Black faceplate. Huzzah! Can't wait!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Just put my order in for A6 XT and Black faceplate. Huzzah! Can't wait!


From an outlet in the states, or Auatuning?

I've been eagerly awaiting this, already have the 5LT to use for the 2 extra channels I need.

Just have to wait until it shows up somewhere that will actually ship it here.

Darlene


----------



## X-Nine

Aquatuning. I've used them in the past a few times (actually, I bought my A5 from them too). They're about twenty bucks cheaper on the A6 than AC's web shop.

Good to see you again. Come on over to the CaseLabs world sometime.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Just put my order in for A6 XT and Black faceplate. Huzzah! Can't wait!


Where?









Hey CaseLabs man, please tell Jim I've got his LA Dodgers tickets for 2014 ready and absolutely FREE, for himself his clients his family or for Kevin if he's a baseball fan.









I just call in the tickets.

PM me Jim.


----------



## Oreaopla

I placed my order for two of the A6s weeks ago and Pascal advised I should have them around the 15th but everywhere I've looked, including Aquatuning's site, suggests the 15th is the shipping date. That could be a temporary placeholder of course and it might be delayed even more but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oreaopla*
> 
> I placed my order for two of the A6s weeks ago and Pascal advised I should have them around the 15th but everywhere I've looked, including Aquatuning's site, suggests the 15th is the shipping date. That could be a temporary placeholder of course and it might be delayed even more but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


The dates on the Aquatuning website mean nothing. Nothing at all. It's the only complaint I can level against them.


----------



## Oreaopla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> The dates on the Aquatuning website mean nothing. Nothing at all. It's the only complaint I can level against them.


Certainly true although the 15th was given as the date to me directly from Pascal who works at Aquatuning. Hopefully he's accurate about it but we'll see.


----------



## skupples

If it happens to drop around the same time as RIV:BE i'll definitely pick one up... If it ends up gettin delayed, it's going to have to wait for phase-2 of my rebuild. (aesthetics phasE)


----------



## greggus

Hi guys ^^

i just received a notification from DHL that my AQ6xt is on it's way (order from AquaComputer)


----------



## seross69

Mine has also shipped!!!!!!


----------



## X-Nine

My payment has been charged at Aquatuning, so I imagine mine will ship soon.


----------



## skupples

WTB it listed on performancePC's


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> My payment has been charged at Aquatuning, so I imagine mine will ship soon.


Yeah Aquatuning charged me in October, probably did not ship yet.


----------



## seross69

It does not cost much more to get it delivered from Aquacomputer than PPC just takes a little longer..


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> WTB it listed on performancePC's


Man I thought you meant it was already listed on PPC


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Man I thought you meant it was already listed on PPC


Yeah he faked me out a little bit too


----------



## Luiyt

DHL came by with my two AQ6 Pro earlier today, they seem great so far!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> My payment has been charged at Aquatuning, so I imagine mine will ship soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah Aquatuning charged me in October, probably did not ship yet.
Click to expand...

How dare you destroy my dreams!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luiyt*
> 
> DHL came by with my two AQ6 Pro earlier today, they seem great so far!


2?? Here we are still contemplating the best way to order 1!


----------



## IT Diva

Has anyone found out when PPC's or FCPU may be making them available for ordering?

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't think anybody's mentioned it. I passed up on preordering one from Aquatuning, since i've had a store credit at PPC's earmarked for that for a while now.
So i'm dying for that info too


----------



## VSG

Grr.. I might end up going with Aquatuning if PPC does not have it by this week. I would have preferred PPC because it is the closest vendor to me and even the cheapest delivery takes 1-2 days only.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well considering i had the 6 Pro in my Aquatuning shopping cart, then deleted it and placed my order, which arrived yesterday. Im definitely regretting the decision









I'll never know if the Aquaero 6 woulda been delivered with the rest of my stuff LOLLL


----------



## VSG

How long did it take for delivery? What delivery option did you choose? Last time I used aquatuning, I think I did FedEx ground and it took >10 days


----------



## kpoeticg

Here

UPS Express Saver DDP (72h) (Shipping to US: (1 x 2.159 kg)):$ 9.00


Spoiler: UPS Tracking



Warwick, RI, United States 11/11/2013 10:34 Delivered
11/11/2013 7:20 Is delivered
11/11/2013 4:03 Arrival Scan
Windsor Locks, CT, United States 11/11/2013 1:57 Departure scan
Louisville, KY, United States 10.11.2013 11:00 Arrival Scan
Philadelphia, PA, United States 09.11.2013 23:22 Departure scan
09.11.2013 18:37 Import Scan
09.11.2013 6:58 Arrival Scan
Koeln, Germany 09.11.2013 4:30 Departure scan
09.11.2013 1:22 Export Scan
09.11.2013 1:10 Export Scan
09.11.2013 12:23 Arrival Scan
Herford, Germany 08/11/2013 21:15 Departure scan
08/11/2013 18:38 Export Scan
08/11/2013 18:38 Origin scan
Germany 08/11/2013 14:11 Order processing: Ready for UPS



Fedex Ground from Germany to Houston?
Hrmmmmmm.


----------



## VSG

Ugh never mind, UPS Express Saver it was.

Any issues with US customs?


----------



## kpoeticg

Nah, it left Germany on the 8th and arrived in Philadelphia on the 9th. Smooth.
I grabbed some random stuff off the marketplace a cpl months ago that got held up in customs though. They took the spraypaint out of the package too. It was sent from S.Korea. So that's probly what happened with your aquatuning package


----------



## greggus

Hi,

I just received my package this morning in France (take 3 days with DHL from Germany to France) i will try this beast tonight


----------



## MeanBruce

"Out for Delivery" ahhh the greatest phrase ever constructed in the English language. A new Aquaero 6? I wish, instead a new 3770K to replace the one I destroyed last Friday during a surgical delidding attempt that was nothing short of malpractice. Although the instruments I used cut into Intel adhesive like it was butter I had no idea the PCB was so soft, slicing into the dual channel memory lanes.









Come over to the dark side, we have cookies.


----------



## kpoeticg

Come over to LGA2011, we have milk


----------



## X-Nine

Mine has shipped. Woot!


----------



## Oreaopla

My two have shipped from Aquatuning along with the last of my other components. I should have them by the weekend or Monday at the latest.


----------



## carmas

Yes, mine was shipped too. I should get it tomorrow or on Saturday


----------



## MeanBruce

How low can I go?

My last 3770K Malay was windows and my apps stable at 4.5Ghz 1.205volts, any lower volts = no boot at all.

This new chip is Costa Rican, and I'm windows and apps stable at 4.5Ghz 1.160volts and still dropping volts .005 per increment.

Is this an indication this new chip is more efficient silicon?

Sorry this is off-topic, I will PM kpoeticg and see if he can help me, just thought all you guys overclock and had any input on this, my goal is to achieve the most efficient stable everyday OC just for working, not benching or competing for numbers, just the lowest volts and the lowest heat and noise.

Thank you for any additions to this.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/451160v_zps3072de4f.jpg.html

I'm ordering my Aquaero 6 from Performance PCs, I'll have to pay state sales tax of $15, but can drive over and pick it up same day so no shipping charges, did I already say that? Feels like Déjà vu.









edit: I just ran Cinebench 11.5 at 4.5Ghz 1.160volts and its stable, YAY, that's good right?


----------



## VSG

PPC said they had no idea when they would be having this in stock though. Europe gets first pick.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> PPC said they had no idea when they would be having this in stock though. Europe gets first pick.


I mailed them twice and received no reply.


----------



## kpoeticg

MeanBruce, yeah it sounds like you got a better clocking chip this time. Dunno if you ever heard of the silicon lottery or binning, but different chips clock better than others. The differences can actually be pretty huge sometimes


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> MeanBruce, yeah it sounds like you got a better clocking chip this time. Dunno if you ever heard of the silicon lottery or binning, but different chips clock better than others. The differences can actually be pretty huge sometimes


But my Cinebench seems like a low score, efficient maybe, but low at 9.09 for a 3770K.









I'm taking a break, then going to keep dropping the volts 1.155v is next.

got a slightly better Cinebench, ok sorry guys I'll take this over to the 3770K OC threads.


----------



## DaveLT

How is that low for a 3770k? It's NORMAL lol


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> How is that low for a 3770k? It's NORMAL lol


You're right Dave it's normal for 3770K at 4.5Ghz, I was looking at charts at 4.7 and 4.9 Cinebench climbs way over 10.0.









But the volts are low aren't they? Got me all excited, after 5 rough days of regretting the deliding.


----------



## MeanBruce

4.9GHz H100i cooling

Thank you Corsair George, may you live forever.








.
http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/49_zps2ac25a36.png.html


----------



## X-Nine

You do realize "may you live forever" is one of the worst insults from old Rome, right? Lol


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You do realize "may you live forever" is one of the worst insults from old Rome, right? Lol


an extension of silliness for those of us that work for a living.









...


----------



## MeanBruce

I love you George.









How about an H360i radiator?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/49_zps2ac25a36.png.html


----------



## Oreaopla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You do realize "may you live forever" is one of the worst insults from old Rome, right? Lol


Not correct. This was a curse given by the Spartans to cowards and is most especially famous as the curse given by King Leonidas to Ephialtes. It was considered a great honor to die bravely in battle and conversely an embarrassment to avoid battle or survive failure. His name eventually took on its own negative connotation of an evil or criminal type of person.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Gotta wait till the 25th to order mine. But maybe I'll include it with a cyber monday order or something. Exciting! Any of you guys get it yet?!?


----------



## kkiidkek

I think it should be no problem given the fact that our performance demonstration had 40 fans and two pumps.


----------



## MeanBruce

5.0, the office is getting very warm.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/50_zps0241c8e3.png.html


----------



## VSG

So is the XT worth the extra $40 or so over the Pro version? I don't anticipate having to use the remote control once I have setup my cooling profiles using the software.


----------



## inoran81

Finally the arrival of the long awaited Aquaero 6 XT!!

Below are hoots that came along with this shipment...









Unboxing...







Aqc Filters & faceplates



LED Stop plugs



Other miscs....



and finally the main lead..... Aquaero 6 XT...unbox and showcase....

















Special thanks for the folks in AquaComputer especially Lukas and Sven for their support as well as expediting the shipping to Singapore all the way from Germany to be one of the first few users in this initial product launch.


----------



## Shoggy

Have fun









And do not forget to remove the protective film from the display. I already had people saying there are scratches until they realized there is a film


----------



## skupples

still not seeing it stateside


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Finally the arrival of the long awaited Aquaero 6 XT!!
> 
> Below are hoots that came along with this shipment...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unboxing...
> 
> Special thanks for the folks in AquaComputer especially Lukas and Sven for their support as well as expediting the shipping to Singapore all the way from Germany to be one of the first few users in this initial product launch.


You great glorious man you.









More Please!

Fire that guy up, lets see that amazing LCD display, Whoooooooooooop!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So is the XT worth the extra $40 or so over the Pro version? I don't anticipate having to use the remote control once I have setup my cooling profiles using the software.


Anticipation is senseless, you will be using that remote 30feet from your soft comfy sofa set. Buy the XT!


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Have fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And do not forget to remove the protective film from the display. I already had people saying there are scratches until they realized there is a film


thanks for the reminder Shoggy!









I will remove that when change the black face plate which I previously bought for AQ5 XT....


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> You great glorious man you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More Please!
> 
> Fire that guy up, lets see that amazing LCD display, Whoooooooooooop!


thanks bud!

Let me tried to find some time to fire it up... its actually 2.50AM here in Singapore....haha... eyes getting tired after a day of work.... hope u guys get ur aq6 ship to you real soon!

I'm still waiting for the EKWB Rampage black edition waterblock before starting my new build... hope it will be coming soon....









have a blast weekend everyone!


----------



## Jhors2

Is it realistic to think that I can run 3 MCP35x PWM pumps off of this? I know it says it's 30W per PWM channel and the pump should only nominally pull 18W. Just wanted to check. I will have to pick up some poweradjusts for my fans though...


----------



## kpoeticg

You could probly run 15. PWM gets its power off your PSU, you just connect the PWM signal to the Aquaero.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Anticipation is senseless, you will be using that remote 30feet from your soft comfy sofa set. Buy the XT!


They also sell the remote separate you know


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You could probly run 15. PWM gets its power off your PSU, you just connect the PWM signal to the Aquaero.
> They also sell the remote separate you know


Everyone is extremely aware of just how the Aquaero 6 and it's many accessories are sold bro, just saying the extra $40 (two pizzas) for the XT is money well spent, get the entire full blown A6 experience.

This is OCN!


----------



## Quadricwan

Personally, I got the Pro because I'd much rather have the $40 extra dollars than stuff I'll _never_ use ....


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Personally, I got the Pro because I'd much rather have the $40 extra dollars than stuff I'll _never_ use ....


Whatever you feel is best. I say what's $40? Get the entire beautiful AquaComputer A6 XT experience!

Did you see that guys photos? They were amazing!

Thank you Shoggy, the Aquaero 6 blends so well with CaseLabs chassis and Sanyo Denki SanAce fans, they are made for each other.









...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Personally, I got the Pro because I'd much rather have the $40 extra dollars than stuff I'll _never_ use ....


Ya I am kinda on this train myself. What else does the XT cover that the Pro doesn't? If its just the remote, I can buy it eventually if I find it would be useful.


----------



## MeanBruce

This is for our new best friend in Singapore.

Get your rest bro, you have a big day tomorrow.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So is the XT worth the extra $40 or so over the Pro version? I don't anticipate having to use the remote control once I have setup my cooling profiles using the software.


the only differance is the remote so if you want use it put the 40 toward something else. I am not even going to be using the display on the pro I have. as a matter of fact I am going to remove the display!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> still not seeing it stateside


Mine should be delivered to Atlanta buy Tuesday of next week..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya I am kinda on this train myself. What else does the XT cover that the Pro doesn't? If its just the remote, I can buy it eventually if I find it would be useful.


you can buy it later if you decide you need or want it. personally I don't see the reason. as if you have a wireless mouse you can still change things in the AQ suite from your couch. personally I don't want the display at all I will be removing mine!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> the only differance is the remote so if you want use it put the 40 toward something else. I am not even going to be using the display on the pro I have. as a matter of fact I am going to remove the display!!
> Mine should be delivered to Atlanta buy Tuesday of next week..
> you can buy it later if you decide you need or want it. personally I don't see the reason. as if you have a wireless mouse you can still change things in the AQ suite from your couch. personally I don't want the display at all I will be removing mine!!


I more meant, US based retailers selling it. If some one knows of one, please inform me.


----------



## Shoggy

The remote is not the only difference. The XT has a touch control with three illuminated main buttons and also four (programmable) buttons in addition that the PRO does not have at all. The XT also features a glass in front of the display.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The remote is not the only difference. The XT has a touch control with three illuminated main buttons and also four (programmable) buttons in addition that the PRO does not have at all. The XT also features a glass in front of the display.


ok so Iearned something new today then!! LOL wrong 2 times in one day think I will stop now!! LOL..







thanks for the link and info shoggy!!


----------



## MeanBruce

Melting fast from all the overclocking.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_3827_zpsdedcd177.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The remote is not the only difference. The XT has a touch control with three illuminated main buttons and also four (programmable) buttons in addition that the PRO does not have at all. The XT also features a glass in front of the display.


Going XT is the only choice if you are looking for absolute front panel gratification.









did I say that?

Melting fast from all the overclocking.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_3827_zpsdedcd177.jpg.html


----------



## chimaychanga

Hi Sven.

Could you please explain how to take of the bezel for replacement of the black ?

Danke


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Going XT is the only choice if you are looking for pure front panel sex.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did I say that?
> 
> Melting fast from all the overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_3827_zpsdedcd177.jpg.html


To each there own. to me a blank front cover or with as little as possible is the best look..


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> To each there own. to me a blank front cover or with as little as possible is the best look..


Either way, the Aquaero 6 is going to look amazing mounted into a CaseLabs FlexBay, black on black with the extra faceplate and dark chrome screws, pure juice brother.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Hi Sven.
> 
> Could you please explain how to take of the bezel for replacement of the black ?
> 
> Danke


Unscrew the four front screws, stock bezel and side brackets fall off.
Then do it up again with new bezel, with side bracket between screen and bezel.


----------



## chimaychanga

the bezel is stuck to the LCD


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Unscrew the four front screws, stock bezel and side brackets fall off.
> Then do it up again with new bezel, with side bracket between screen and bezel.


And how do you match the offset screws? Nickel Chromium is way too bright for my build.

Shoggy, why can't you ship little black front bezel offset screws just four of em man?

Stainless steel is for kitchen appliances not pc hardware Shoggdawg!

OK, maybe your stainless is way cool, but at least give us the option. 4 black faceplate screws.

simple.

...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> the bezel is stuck to the LCD


Ah. Sure it's really stuck and not just a tight fit? Mine came off no problem, but I have the AQ5 Pro, not the AQ6 or XT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> And how do you match the offset screws? Nickel Chromium is way too bright for my build.


They are just M3 screws, I changed mine for black oxide button-head screws.


----------



## seross69

Should be easy enough to find the screws you need in black.. I would think but could be wrong that they are m-3 but I do not know the length or if they are counter sunk or not. If you tell me this I can tell you where to get 4 screws like you want!!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah. Sure it's really stuck and not just a tight fit? Mine came off no problem, but I have the AQ5 Pro, not the AQ6 or XT.
> They are just M3 screws, I changed mine for black oxide button-head screws.


OMG those are beautiful screws, rep rep thank you so much.









still they should be in the A6 box.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah. Sure it's really stuck and not just a tight fit? Mine came off no problem, but I have the AQ5 Pro, not the AQ6 or XT.
> They are just M3 screws, I changed mine for black oxide button-head screws.


its seems like its glued together


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> OMG those are beautiful screws, rep rep thank you so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still they should be in the A6 box.


You know this are quiet easy to find in the US also if you dont want to order them from MDPC-X.. I have order a lot from them so I would not blame you for doing this but if you want them faster you can get the at FCPU and PPC or other places... like here for 8 cents each


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> OMG those are beautiful screws, rep rep thank you so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still they should be in the A6 box.


Those screws are indeed really lovely. Mountain Mods does a similar thing for UNC 6/32 screws. Also MDPC-X brainwashers are pretty nice too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> its seems like its glued together


Uhm okay, best wait for answer from Shoggy. I'm presuming you have AQ6 XT then?


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Uhm okay, best wait for answer from Shoggy. I'm presuming you have AQ6 XT then?


yep


----------



## MeanBruce

My new thermal compound. After a delidding attempt CPU crime scene and a replacement golden thank you Lord CPU, I'm just going with this next best TIM, 1C shy of the CoolLaboratories menace to society.

Replacing my Noctua paste in the morning with something better.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4237_zps60c6e007.jpg.html


----------



## WiSK

I bought some of that PK3 stuff recently too. Don't use the spreader, but put the syringe in a ziplock bag in a bowl of hot not boiling water for 10 minutes before use.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Finally the arrival of the long awaited Aquaero 6 XT!!


.... YO! I think you can guess who i am already







(Didn't know you were on OCN)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My new thermal compound. After a delidding attempt CPU crime scene and a replacement golden thank you Lord CPU, I'm just going with this next best TIM, 1C shy of the CoolLaboratories menace to society.
> 
> Replacing my Noctua paste in the morning with something better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4237_zps60c6e007.jpg.html


what happened with the clu?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> what happened with the clu?


Dead CPU on the left, new golden Costa Rican on the right, at least it seems golden, 5.0 easy with an h100i, and 4.5Ghz 1.145volts still dropping so for the two days I've had it, it seems very nice. Golden? I have no idea where is the measure? But my last 3770K could not boot to 4.8.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4227_zpsdb643ef2.jpg.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Dead CPU on the left, new golden Costa Rican on the right, at least it seems golden, 5.0 easy with an h100i, and 4.5Ghz 1.145volts still dropping so for the two days I've had it, it seem very nice. Golden? I have no idea where is the measure? But my last 3770K could not boot to 4.8.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4227_zpsdb643ef2.jpg.html


Looks to me like too much of the coollabs on it and it got to places it should not get as it dose conduct and is corrosive... but I may be wrong!!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks to me like too much of the coollabs on it and it got to places it should not get as it dose conduct and is corrosive... but I may be wrong!!


The coollabs spreads so easy, but I think my mistake was the lower left corner slicing into the PCB dual channel memory lanes.









Now if I could just delid this current Golden 3770K, oh man it might turn into Platinum, but what am I saying? I just endured 5 days of pain.

So no, I'll just replace the Noctua TIM with the PK-3 and be happy for what I have.









...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The coollabs spreads so easy, but I think my mistake was the lower left corner slicing into the PCB dual channel memory lanes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I could just delid this current Golden 3770K, oh man it might turn into Platinum, but what am I saying? I just endured 5 days of pain.
> 
> So no, I'll just replace the Noctua TIM with the PK-3 and be happy for what I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


looks like you cut into the traces! CLU isn't to blame!


----------



## skupples

Almost ordered, then saw shipping was 100USD (60EU)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Almost ordered, then saw shipping was 100USD (60EU)


where was the shipping a 100 dollars?? if it from Aquacomputer this must be a Typo or something. I know for a fact I did not pay that much for shipping.. the shipping is 34.9 EU for all orders to the USA.. no matter how big or small!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> where was the shipping a 100 dollars?? if it from Aquacomputer this must be a Typo or something. I know for a fact I did not pay that much for shipping.. the shipping is 34.9 EU for all orders to the USA.. no matter how big or small!!


the cheep (ships ~14 days) was 34.9eu, UPS for 60 EU.

If I knew it wouldn't take 2 weeks for it to head this way I would grab it, but it will likely be available this side of the pond with in 2 weeks... I think?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The coollabs spreads so easy, but I think my mistake was the lower left corner slicing into the PCB dual channel memory lanes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I could just delid this current Golden 3770K, oh man it might turn into Platinum, but what am I saying? I just endured 5 days of pain.


Sometimes the better chips won't benefit from the delid as much as the not so good ones. Or so I have heard.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the cheep (ships ~14 days) was 34.9eu, UPS for 60 EU.
> 
> If I knew it wouldn't take 2 weeks for it to head this way I would grab it, but it will likely be available this side of the pond with in 2 weeks... I think?


it has never take me 14 days to get anything from Them and I live in Atlanta. I also don't expect anyone in the US to have them this year. just impression I was given...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it has never take me 14 days to get anything from Them and I live in Atlanta. I also don't expect anyone in the US to have them this year. just impression I was given...












will have to sleep on it. Wanted to put it in during phase 1, but i'm getting tired of waiting for parts. As soon as this damned riv:be shows up i'm throwing everything in, skipping sleeving & pressing go.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will have to sleep on it. Wanted to put it in during phase 1, but i'm getting tired of waiting for parts. As soon as this damned riv:be shows up i'm throwing everything in, skipping sleeving & pressing go.


know the feeling about that....


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Could you please explain how to take of the bezel for replacement of the black ?


Remove the four screws at the front and pull out the front from the display. It is only plugged into an interface-socket. The front consists of a touch controller board, the glass and the stainless steel cover. The glass and cover are glued to the touch controller since it provides the best results for the touch controller. To remove the cover you will have to use some force. Get a knife or something similar and start in one corner to separate the cover from the controller board. At some pint you should be able to pull apart everything but do it slowly and take care. Afterwards you can place the black cover. There should be still enough adhesion to keep it in place with direct contact to the board. Otherwise you can add some double-sided tape. The important areas are the buttons.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Shoggy, why can't you ship little black front bezel offset screws just four of em man?


We have no black countersunk screws available in that size.


----------



## LiquidHaus

UGH the 25th needs to hurry so I can order this thing. I think I will take the silver face plate off, and paint it white so it matches with my theme I'm trying to complete with my current rig.



Planning on side placement as the case sits sideways; trying to make the side more of a "front".

I think I will be able to pull it off placing it below the motherboard, and out a bit, and still have room for a video card if I go 4 way crossfire/sli in the future.

I'll have the bracket made up before the 25th so timing is becoming rather spot on


----------



## carmas

got mine too, together with a few more things


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> know the feeling about that....


Yeah... Iv'e literally had this pile of parts for almost 3 months now. The DAY(night) I went to order my motherboard asus dropped the hype wagon on Riv:BE... /sigh


----------



## X-Nine

Can we keep the discussion to the Aquaero 6? I just went through 4 pages and at least a page of it had nothing to do with the Aquaero.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Almost ordered, then saw shipping was 100USD (60EU)


Shipping cost to Colorado for just the A6 and Black FacePlate was 9 bucks from Aquatuning. Unless you're ordering a huge amount of things, I don't see how you would be spending 100 bucks. Most orders ship for a flat fee of 35 bucks from Aquacomputer, again, unless you're having them ship an enormous package.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Can we keep the discussion to the Aquaero 6? I just went through 4 pages and at least a page of it had nothing to do with the Aquaero.
> Shipping cost to Colorado for just the A6 and Black FacePlate was 9 bucks from Aquatuning. Unless you're ordering a huge amount of things, I don't see how you would be spending 100 bucks. Most orders ship for a flat fee of 35 bucks from Aquacomputer, again, unless you're having them ship an enormous package.


ohhh. I was under the impression from some one, that US retailers wouldn't have it any time soon. Didn't even think about aquatuning.us

aaaaannnnd, 6XT ordered! Now to find a sexy place to stash it inside my 900D!

Edit: Wonder when they will actually have them in stock.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Can we keep the discussion to the Aquaero 6? I just went through 4 pages and at least a page of it had nothing to do with the Aquaero.
> Shipping cost to Colorado for just the A6 and Black FacePlate was 9 bucks from Aquatuning. Unless you're ordering a huge amount of things, I don't see how you would be spending 100 bucks. Most orders ship for a flat fee of 35 bucks from Aquacomputer, again, unless you're having them ship an enormous package.
> 
> 
> 
> ohhh. I was under the impression from some one, that US retailers wouldn't have it any time soon. Didn't even think about aquatuning.us
> 
> aaaaannnnd, 6XT ordered! Now to find a sexy place to stash it inside my 900D!
Click to expand...









Mine shipped last Wednesday, arrived at UPS saturday morning and is awaiting delivery on monday. Not too bad for international orders....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine shipped last Wednesday, arrived at UPS saturday morning and is awaiting delivery on monday. Not too bad for international orders....


hrrm... They must be drop shipping them directly from Germany? Or I guess they haven't updated the site yet. Good to hear they are shipping out from that retailer though! One more missing link, not that important to a build really... Just a motherboard.







Getting the XT model was probably a total waste of 40$ since it will be housed internally, owellz.


----------



## seross69

Mine shipped on the 11th and was delivered today the 16th!! so shipping not taking long. I bought from Aquacomputer..


----------



## skupples

@ XNine did you order from aquatuning?


----------



## X-Nine

Sure did


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Sure did


cool cool, thx for the response... I decided to save my self 40$ and just go with the PRO model, well if they see my email before shipping out that is... Mostly because it's going to be housed internally, so I will be controlling it with the software suite 99% of the time.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Mostly because it's going to be housed internally, so I will be controlling it with the software suite 99% of the time.


I really wonder about the advantages of the remote control on the XT. I've set my Aquaero to deal with most situations and hardly ever pressed buttons on the front panel.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I really wonder about the advantages of the remote control on the XT. I've set my Aquaero to deal with most situations and hardly ever pressed buttons on the front panel.


ikr? it has more buttons then all my TV remotes combined.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Can we keep the discussion to the Aquaero 6? I just went through 4 pages and at least a page of it had nothing to do with the Aquaero.
> Shipping cost to Colorado for just the A6 and Black FacePlate was 9 bucks from Aquatuning. Unless you're ordering a huge amount of things, I don't see how you would be spending 100 bucks. Most orders ship for a flat fee of 35 bucks from Aquacomputer, again, unless you're having them ship an enormous package.


^^ this. So much crap in this thread not related to the A6


----------



## chimaychanga

then check out the RIVBE thread.. lawl


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> then check out the RIVBE thread.. lawl


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> then check out the RIVBE thread.. lawl


Hahahah right?

The reason is simple though: most people have not received their A6s or they plan on buying one soon, like me. The thread was created to spread the word and the word has been spread, now like minded people are conversing about other topics while they're waiting for their A6. Don't see the point of getting upset about it. All threads end up doing this one way or another.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well said. Yeah, an announcement thread can only stay on topic for so long. With huge releases like the A6 or R4BE, alot of people are gonna end up subbing the thread and conversations go in alot of different directions


----------



## Shoggy

Version 4 of the aquasuite 2013 has been released today. It contains some minor bugfixes.


----------



## X-Nine

Mine arrived this morning!













The remote is colored a little differently from the 5 model....., and I've already pulled the silver face plate to paint it (I ordered an extra, just in case)


----------



## seross69

Yeah Mine is at home but I am in indonesia cant wait to get home and play with it!!!







at least touch it..









Have fun


----------



## pilotter

received my aquaero6 this week, is now on test bed.... I have the aqua flowsensor high flow without usb. Connected to the aquaero6. I thought when I blow into the sensor it should show up in aquasuite....... should it? No flow in aquasuite....


----------



## kpoeticg

It's not a mechanical sensor so i wouldn't expect it to without liquid flowing through it. A sensor with a rotating spindle would show up

The same thing that makes it "High Flow" is what makes it not show up when you blow into it


----------



## X-Nine

Wouldn't it only sense water and not air?

Ninja'd


----------



## pilotter

well there is this spin inside, which you can hear turning when you blow. Just want to make sure before I put it in y loop

some pics Aquaero6 installed with 2 PA's, WIP so don't look at the wiring please


----------



## skupples

Awwwwyeahhhh... My A6XT has been dispatched... I tried getting aquatuning to switch it out for a pro but it seems they ignored my emails.


----------



## Quadricwan

Mine just shipped today from Aquatuning, along with all of the fittings & other misc. stuff I was waiting on. Much excitement. Also got word that my NCase M1 shipped today as well! Now I just need Caselabs to give us some new about the Gemini series so I can upgrade to something that's actually big enough to hold all my parts!

Edited for superior words & letters.


----------



## skupples

Got my shipping number woot. @ this rate I'll have it before black edition riv


----------



## LiquidHaus

Hey guys. I need a favor. I really need to know the dimensions of the bracket on the sides, like how this guy is holding it up:


----------



## seross69

is any one running Dual AQ6's or Dual AQ5's that are not slaved? if so how dose it work and does aquasuite have any problems with this?? Just some general information would be great!!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> is any one running Dual AQ6's or Dual AQ5's that are not slaved? if so how dose it work and does aquasuite have any problems with this?? Just some general information would be great!!!


Each device is identified by its unique serial number and listed on the left as an entry. You can easily switch between the devices by just clicking on them. In the overview pages you can combine the values of both devices in one screen.


----------



## pilotter

Shoggy,

I have updated my aquasuite, but I can remember that Aquasuite would show 2 PA's? Now it only shows one. However tempsensors and fans from both PA's are shown aquaero6 tab.



ignore the red cross in the usb connection, I am not connected at this moment.....


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> is any one running Dual AQ6's or Dual AQ5's that are not slaved? if so how dose it work and does aquasuite have any problems with this?? Just some general information would be great!!!


I once considered that, and from what I've read around, it is possible. the only downside (maybe for some people) would be that they don't share their resources such as temp sensors, flow sensors, etc. so if you attach a flow sensor to unit 1, then pumps to unit 2, you can't control your pumps based on the flow sensor's reading, so you need to attach your flow sensor and pumps to the same unit... similarly, you can't control fans attached to unit 1 based on readings from temp sensor attached to unit 2.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> I once considered that, and from what I've read around, it is possible. the only downside (maybe for some people) would be that they don't share their resources such as temp sensors, flow sensors, etc. so if you attach a flow sensor to unit 1, then pumps to unit 2, you can't control your pumps based on the flow sensor's reading, so you need to attach your flow sensor and pumps to the same unit... similarly, you can't control fans attached to unit 1 based on readings from temp sensor attached to unit 2.


That is really not any problem as long as you plan right and use enough sensors!!!!


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> That is really not any problem as long as you plan right and use enough sensors!!!!


precisely, but no harm in letting you know early. considering your build, I don't think you'll enjoy re-routing cables here and there when you finish everything and find out that your aquaero system doesn't work the way you want it to.


----------



## ladcrooks

Might use this as a cheap air conditioning unit - so many fans


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> I have updated my aquasuite, but I can remember that Aquasuite would show 2 PA's? Now it only shows one. However tempsensors and fans from both PA's are shown aquaero6 tab.


So none of these devices is connected right? In this case I would not worry too much. Try it again when everything is connected.


----------



## skupples

I sure hope the guys @ the Louisville Kentucky Customs department are having a good day today. I cringe to think what they are doing to my poor A6xt.

"Well let's see hurrr, we gotz us one germanish CD player type thingamajig, OK"


----------



## IT Diva

I just noticed this afternoon that the Aquaero 6 is showing as "Out of Stock" on the new products on Frozen CPU.

I hope that means that they'll have it available soon, as I never saw it for pre-order.

FCPU and PPCs are about the only places that ship here to the VI., so I'm pretty much over a barrel.

Darlene


----------



## LiquidHaus

I am still waiting for it to show up on PPCS as well. I try to keep the number of incoming packages to a minimum.


----------



## VSG

Does the black front plate for the Aquaero 5 XT match the Aquaero 6 XT as well?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Does the black front plate for the Aquaero 5 XT match the Aquaero 6 XT as well?


yes it does!!!


----------



## VSG

Great! Any other accessories worth getting? I have a bitspower plug temperature sensor and I would like to get a bitspower inline plug as well- I assume these are compatible with the Aquaero 6?

Between the 10% coupon for FrozenCPU for a reseller rating and PPC's thanksgiving discount, it's buying season


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Between the 10% coupon for FrozenCPU for a reseller rating and PPC's thanksgiving discount, it's buying season


What 10% coupon?


----------



## VSG

After the 1st time you place an order with them, you get a link to leave a reseller rating and get a 10% discount code valid for 3 months. You can't get this offer more than once per account.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Great! Any other accessories worth getting? I have a bitspower plug temperature sensor and I would like to get a bitspower inline plug as well- I assume these are compatible with the Aquaero 6?
> 
> Between the 10% coupon for FrozenCPU for a reseller rating and PPC's thanksgiving discount, it's buying season


yes you can.. you can use any 10k temp sensor on the AQ 5 or 6


----------



## VSG

Thanks, +1


----------



## Shoggy

And now we are at version 5. It contains a bugfix for the USB communication for the mps based devices and the aquastream XT compatibility to Windows 8.1 has been improved again. We still had some customers where the new selective suspend "feature" (Microsoft, really...?!) caused problems.


----------



## iknownothing

I really want one, but by God they are not cheap, early xmas present for me Shoggy????????????? (If you don't ask you'll never get)

This with my new case and my 2 7950's watercooled (already have) will look epic.


----------



## skupples

Sigh, my A6 is out for delivery, but they made it require signature, and i'm NEVER home when UPS man comes by... Wonder if I can leave a note & 20$ begging him to leave it... (come home to no package, and 20$ missing)

Edit: woot my note worked. Package is sitting @ home. Can see it through my security camera app.

Asus sure could learn some to BG from aquatuning.


----------



## MeanBruce

Contacted Performance-PCs regarding an ETA on the Aquaero 6. They responded by saying they've had so many calls and emails for the A6 they're not giving out the arrival date. I said "well I live just across the lagoon from you guys I'll just drive over and pick one up. They are like "we don't care where you live" its "first come first served" the moment the webpage goes up. It's going to be a mad rush for that first batch of 20 or 30 units they receive! Looks like camping out at their front door won't help me.









These Aquaero 6s are SUPER HOT items, just like the RIVE BE. Hmmm ya think this thread had anything to do with that Shoggdawg?









...well I hope it did anyway.


----------



## skupples

Just order it from aquatuning. My unit dispatched straight from Germany, took 3 days to get here... More than I can say about NCIX and my Rive:BE...

SHOULD OF SWITCHED OVER TO NEWEGG DAY ONE LIKE EVERYONE TOLD ME TO DO.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Just order it from aquatuning. My unit dispatched straight from Germany, took 3 days to get here... More than I can say about NCIX and my Rive:BE...
> 
> SHOULD OF SWITCHED OVER TO NEWEGG DAY ONE LIKE EVERYONE TOLD ME TO DO.


Whoa, Aquatuning sent you some gummybears?









Ok, that settles it, I'll order from AT. Kinda mad at PPCs anyway, they don't treat long term customers very well and I found a better local computer shop for sleeving.

Thanks skupples!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Whoa, Aquatuning sent you some gummybears?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, that settles it, I'll order from AT. Kinda mad at PPCs anyway, they don't treat long term customers very well and I found a better local computer shop for sleeving.
> 
> Thanks skupples!


they so tasty.


----------



## dseg

I was going to order from PCC also since they are so close but figured it would take forever to get.
Which I guess it was a good call, I've had mine since Monday (ordered from Aquatuning). Too bad Aquacomputer sends out dead AAA batteries for the remote...


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Just order it from aquatuning. My unit dispatched straight from Germany, took 3 days to get here... More than I can say about NCIX and my Rive:BE...
> 
> SHOULD OF SWITCHED OVER TO NEWEGG DAY ONE LIKE EVERYONE TOLD ME TO DO.


NEwegg is using OnTrac for their deliveries now. The chances of me buying from them ever again are the same as me walking in to a WalMart....that's...that's zero, for anyone who couldn't guess.


----------



## seross69

Got the last AQ6 Pro Aquatunning had.. So I have my 2nd one one the way not should be delivered tomorrow..







decided I wanted to see the screen and after looking at mandrix's completed build and he had his with blue in the screens I decided I wanted my to show!!! But having a Case Labs TX10 that would not look right to only have 1 showing so I got the 2nd one!!!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> NEwegg is using OnTrac for their deliveries now. The chances of me buying from them ever again are the same as me walking in to a WalMart....that's...that's zero, for anyone who couldn't guess.


NCIX came through in the 11th hour with my shipping code. Means i'll be getting started on my black beast in a few days! It only took them 3 day's of BS, & WEEKS of lies. Anway's... I was under the impression OnTrac, LazerShip & Lastmile were all subsidiaries? Like, the packages are shipped via fedex/ups hubs, then are picked up by x y & Z for final delivery.

Have you had bad experiences with ontrac?

I have many newegg horror stories. RMA support, & not billing what the website shows it should be billing (15% off coupons on EVO SSD's)


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes you can.. you can use any 10k temp sensor on the AQ 5 or 6


Not really... these sensors also have a so called B value which must be 3435 in our case. For example I know that the 10kOhm sensors from Koolance use a different B value which means when used with an aquaero they will also show the correct temperature at the the reference of 25°C but the more you go up or down, the bigger the difference to the real temperature will be.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not really... these sensors also have a so called B value which must be 3435 in our case. For example I know that the 10kOhm sensors from Koolance use a different B value which means when used with an aquaero they will also show the correct temperature at the the reference of 25°C but the more you go up or down, the bigger the difference to the real temperature will be.


ok good to know this Shoggy... I know you may not be suppose to tell us this but will the Phobya Temperature Sensor In / Outer Thread G1/4 PH-71170 work correctly with the Aquaero?? they look exactly like your 53067 sensor??

Please tell me yes as I have 16 of these and hope they will work???


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> NEwegg is using OnTrac for their deliveries now. The chances of me buying from them ever again are the same as me walking in to a WalMart....that's...that's zero, for anyone who couldn't guess.
> 
> 
> 
> NCIX came through in the 11th hour with my shipping code. Means i'll be getting started on my black beast in a few days! It only took them 3 day's of BS, & WEEKS of lies. Anway's... I was under the impression OnTrac, LazerShip & Lastmile were all subsidiaries? Like, the packages are shipped via fedex/ups hubs, then are picked up by x y & Z for final delivery.
> 
> Have you had bad experiences with ontrac?
> 
> I have many newegg horror stories. RMA support, & not billing what the website shows it should be billing (15% off coupons on EVO SSD's)
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say horror stories with OnTrac, but the simple fact that they deliver pacakges to my place AFTER 8PM is completely unacceptable, so I will no longer use anyone who ships with them. I've heard other stories though, of them completely losing packages, throwing them on to front doors, etc.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> ok good to know this Shoggy... I know you may not be suppose to tell us this but will the Phobya Temperature Sensor In / Outer Thread G1/4 PH-71170 work correctly with the Aquaero?? they look exactly like your 53067 sensor??
> 
> Please tell me yes as I have 16 of these and hope they will work???


I have no idea since the B value of these sensors is not provided anywhere. I assume they work correctly since otherwise there would have been already many users complaining about wrong temperature values.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I wouldn't say horror stories with OnTrac, but the simple fact that they deliver pacakges to my place AFTER 8PM is completely unacceptable, so I will no longer use anyone who ships with them. I've heard other stories though, of them completely losing packages, throwing them on to front doors, etc.


ooof... LazerShip dropped my A6XT off @ 10:30 AM... I was flabbergasted to say the least. I normally leave for work way before then, so I had no idea when packages actually showed up. It all depends on where you live, & their route. My old house (right next to the receiving airport) didn't get deliveries until 8-9PM. I assume this is because they work backward... From the furthest point out, back to receiving.

anyways, enough off topicness, some one may blow a gasket.

Guess I need to find some toys to plug into this bad boy!


----------



## suicidegybe

Can the 2 PWN connectors on the bottom of the Aquaero 6 be use to control the speed of fans if the fans have their own power supply from a splitter like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33363?
I know I would connect the power to the Molex of the splitter then I would connect the RPM and PWM cable from the splitter to one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36722 and plug that into the PWM port on the back of the Aquaero 6.

Also I am going to have a Aquaero 6, a Aqua computer D5 with aqua bus, a High flow flow meter and one of the fluid level monitors. Which one gets connected to the high speed and which to the low speed aqua bus port?


----------



## Jhors2

Just ordered mine from Aquatuning last night, doing a build from complete scratch, not exactly sure how I will pull this together quite yet, 3 MCP35X pumps and a few poweradjusts for the fans. Should be good!


----------



## VSG

3 MCP35x pumps? What on earth for?


----------



## Jhors2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 3 MCP35x pumps? What on earth for?


I want to pick up the triple pump top







, going with an overkill 900d build, quad rads, tri sli and waterblocks on everything I can. I also want to run the pumps at peak efficiency, which is about 50-60% duty cycle.


----------



## VSG

There better be a build log


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhors2*
> 
> I want to pick up the triple pump top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , going with an overkill 900d build, quad rads, tri sli and waterblocks on everything I can. I also want to run the pumps at peak efficiency, which is about 50-60% duty cycle.


That's some serious pump power. I run my mcp35x2 @ like 30% from each pump, & it's like a turbine @ hoover dam. I'm mating it with the Switech Maelstrom in my 900D rebuild. Should be interesting... The res is kinda small, so i'm going to have to keep it 100% full I think.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhors2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 3 MCP35x pumps? What on earth for?
> 
> 
> 
> I want to pick up the triple pump top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , going with an overkill 900d build, quad rads, tri sli and waterblocks on everything I can. I also want to run the pumps at peak efficiency, which is about 50-60% duty cycle.
Click to expand...

If you're referring to the XSPC triple top, I have one and elected not to use it.

It's not an efficient design, and doesn't allow mounting a res directly above the intake pump inlet, like the Bitspower dual D5 top does, and it has too many narrow milled passages that make 90 degree turns and a restrictive entry diameter at the intake pump impeller.

If you want a dual acrylic top for 35X's, look at this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=36513

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suicidegybe*
> 
> Can the 2 PWN connectors on the bottom of the Aquaero 6 be use to control the speed of fans


No, the "extra" PWM connectors modulate 12V at 15kHz, while PWM fans need 25kHz 5V modulation. You can use them as a kind of dimmer for LEDs or to control anything else that accepts such modulation @ 12V.


----------



## Jhors2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're referring to the XSPC triple top, I have one and elected not to use it.
> 
> It's not an efficient design, and doesn't allow mounting a res directly above the intake pump inlet, like the Bitspower dual D5 top does, and it has too many narrow milled passages that make 90 degree turns and a restrictive entry diameter at the intake pump impeller.
> 
> If you want a dual acrylic top for 35X's, look at this one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=36513
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the insight, I saw some performance figures posted on some site talking about the pumping power that you can make out of the top, it's pretty significant, definitely not the most optimal design the way it's milled but still a significant increase over 2 pumps. You gave me something to chew on however.


----------



## pilotter

So I have the aquaero6 and 2 PA's.

following setup in my system 1 top radiator UT360 45mm and 1 bottom rad UT monsta 240. Both rads in Push pull ( into the case).

I have my CPU and GPU watercooled ( almost waiting for last ekwb block)

5 inline sensors have been placed;

no.1 toprad water inlet
no 2. toprad water outlet
no 3. bottomrad water inlet
no 4 bottomrad water outlet
no 5. reservoir

also 4 air temp sensors have been placed;

n01. toprad intake
bo2. toprad exhaust ( into case )
no3. bottomrad intake
no4. bottomrad exhaust (into case

I have more space for temp. sensors, so if you have advise for more places to monitor?

How would you setup the fan control? I understand this would work best with the water temp. Could you please tell me or if possible point me to a guide?






waterloop will be;

res - mcp35x2 - bottomrad - southbridge - gpu - toprad - mosfet - cpu - memory - res


----------



## VSG

What are your inline sensors sensing?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> So I have the aquaero6 and 2 PA's.
> 
> following setup in my system 1 top radiator UT360 45mm and 1 bottom rad UT monsta 240. Both rads in Push pull ( into the case).
> 
> I have my CPU and GPU watercooled ( almost waiting for last ekwb block)
> 
> 5 inline sensors have been placed;
> 
> no.1 toprad water inlet
> no 2. toprad water outlet
> no 3. bottomrad water inlet
> no 4 bottomrad water outlet
> no 5. reservoir
> 
> also 4 air temp sensors have been placed;
> 
> n01. toprad intake
> bo2. toprad exhaust ( into case )
> no3. bottomrad intake
> no4. bottomrad exhaust (into case
> 
> I have more space for temp. sensors, so if you have advise for more places to monitor?
> 
> How would you setup the fan control? I understand this would work best with the water temp. Could you please tell me or if possible point me to a guide?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waterloop will be;
> 
> res - mcp35x2 - bottomrad - southbridge - gpu - toprad - mosfet - cpu - memory - res


pilotter

you want to set up the fan on a delta using the water and air temp. make a software temp sensor using those 2 and use this to control the fans..


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> pilotter
> 
> you want to set up the fan on a delta using the water and air temp. make a software temp sensor using those 2 and use this to control the fans..


And here are the screenshots to accompany this fine suggestion









Set fans to the range you are comfortable with



Make virtual sensor based on water - ambient delta



Select fans to react when that delta goes above an arbitrary value, say 10C.



The idea is not to base your fans speeds on CPU or GPU temps. But instead to assume that the water temp is a good indication of how much heat is coming from all your components. Let the Aquaero try to keep the water temp steady, it will decide the actual fan speed within the range you selected.

Obviously with more sensors you can make a more complex setup.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhors2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're referring to the XSPC triple top, I have one and elected not to use it.
> 
> It's not an efficient design, and doesn't allow mounting a res directly above the intake pump inlet, like the Bitspower dual D5 top does, and it has too many narrow milled passages that make 90 degree turns and a restrictive entry diameter at the intake pump impeller.
> 
> If you want a dual acrylic top for 35X's, look at this one:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_775&products_id=36513
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the insight, I saw some performance figures posted on some site talking about the pumping power that you can make out of the top, it's pretty significant, definitely not the most optimal design the way it's milled but still a significant increase over 2 pumps. You gave me something to chew on however.
Click to expand...

If you have a link comparing the XSPC dual top to the triple top, I'd love to see that comparison.

With the 35X, you can run as many as you want from 1 channel of Aquaero 6, since they power from the PSU molex.

Darlene


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> pilotter
> 
> you want to set up the fan on a delta using the water and air temp. make a software temp sensor using those 2 and use this to control the fans..










thanks

so maybe for the toprad watersensor 1 and inlet airtemp, make this a software temp in aquasuite and use this to control the fans with curve contol?

what about the mump, should or can I adjust the speed as well with the delta T? ) mcp35x2 is connected to the aquaero )


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> so maybe for the toprad watersensor 1 and inlet airtemp, make this a software temp in aquasuite and use this to control the fans with curve contol?
> 
> what about the mump, should or can I adjust the speed as well with the delta T? ) mcp35x2 is connected to the aquaero )


I would use the CPU or GPU temp to adjust the pump. as this will cool them quicker than fans.


----------



## Jhors2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have a link comparing the XSPC dual top to the triple top, I'd love to see that comparison.
> 
> With the 35X, you can run as many as you want from 1 channel of Aquaero 6, since they power from the PSU molex.
> 
> Darlene


Hey Darlene,
Take a look here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/821693/review-roundup-bay-reservoirs-laing-tops


----------



## VSG

Hey guys can someone help this fan controller newb out?









I am not sure what accessories I would find useful with the Aquaero 6 XT which I will be purchasing once FrozenCPU or PPC have it in stock. I have a bitspower plug temperature sensor to be hooked into my reservoir and I would like an inline sensor as well (will see if I can get aqua computer for best compatibility). I would also like 1-2 temperature sensors that I can stick onto my motherbord and my case for ambient temperatures (any recommendation?). I would also like to be able measure flowrate but I am unsure which flow meter is best and if I need any cabling to connect the flowmeter to the controller/motherboard. Lastly, do I need a poweradjust to hook up my mcp35x? I was going have the pump on PWM header 1 (power directly from PSU), 8 PWM fans on PWM header 2 (connected via a swiftech PWM splitter, power from PSU), 6 PWM fans on PWM header 3 (connected via swiftech PWM splitter, power from PSU). I also have 3 case fans (non PWM) that I want to hook up directly to the Aquaero.

Thanks a lot!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey guys can someone help this fan controller newb out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure what accessories I would find useful with the Aquaero 6 XT which I will be purchasing once FrozenCPU or PPC have it in stock. I have a bitspower plug temperature sensor to be hooked into my reservoir and I would like an inline sensor as well (will see if I can get aqua computer for best compatibility). I would also like 1-2 temperature sensors that I can stick onto my motherbord and my case for ambient temperatures (any recommendation?). I would also like to be able measure flowrate but I am unsure which flow meter is best and if I need any cabling to connect the flowmeter to the controller/motherboard. Lastly, do I need a poweradjust to hook up my mcp35x? I was going have the pump on PWM header 1 (power directly from PSU), 8 PWM fans on PWM header 2 (connected via a swiftech PWM splitter, power from PSU), 6 PWM fans on PWM header 3 (connected via swiftech PWM splitter, power from PSU). I also have 3 case fans (non PWM) that I want to hook up directly to the Aquaero.
> 
> Thanks a lot!


well unless you get the PA's which you don't need then you can only have 1 "high flow" G1/4 P/N 53068 found *here*
if you need or want more than 1 flow sensor. then you can also get up to 4 of these flow sensors "high flow USB" G1/4 P/N 53129 found *here* these are MIPS devices so you can hook up to 4 MIPS devices to the AQ6.

also you will need the flow cable for the first one I showed you because the connector on the sensor is 3 pin but like nothing else.

hope this helps!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jhors2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have a link comparing the XSPC dual top to the triple top, I'd love to see that comparison.
> 
> With the 35X, you can run as many as you want from 1 channel of Aquaero 6, since they power from the PSU molex.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Darlene,
> Take a look here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/821693/review-roundup-bay-reservoirs-laing-tops
Click to expand...

Thanks, I may have to reconsider.

It would be easy enough to mod it to put a res directly above the impeller inlet.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> well unless you get the PA's which you don't need then you can only have 1 "high flow" G1/4 P/N 53068 found *here*
> if you need or want more than 1 flow sensor. then you can also get up to 4 of these flow sensors "high flow USB" G1/4 P/N 53129 found *here* these are MIPS devices so you can hook up to 4 MIPS devices to the AQ6.
> 
> also you will need the flow cable for the first one I showed you because the connector on the sensor is 3 pin but like nothing else.
> 
> hope this helps!!


So for flow, just get the high flow non-usb and the corresponding 3-pin cable.









No need for poweradjust or the cable to connect a mcp35x directly, correct? I got confused because the pump connection cable (53053) specifes the Aquaero 6 also in its description.

Is the 24 pin ATX standby useful in real world application? Don't most motherboards already have a power kill if the CPU temperature is too high?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So for flow, just get the high flow non-usb and the corresponding 3-pin cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No need for poweradjust or the cable to connect a mcp35x directly, correct? I got confused because the pump connection cable (53053) specifes the Aquaero 6 also in its description.
> 
> Is the 24 pin ATX standby useful in real world application? Don't most motherboards already have a power kill if the CPU temperature is too high?


yes to question 1

with the PMW mcp35x it is powered from the PSU and the PMW signal comes from the AQ6.. I dont know if you will be making your own cables or your level of experiance with this and other electrical items. so I hope I dont confuse you but I am telling you this off the top of my head. the PMW pump comes with a molex 4 pin that you hook to the PSU and a 3 pin that you will hook to the AQ6 for RPM and PMW signal

to me the 24 pin is not needed. because of what you said and other reasons...

hopefully you understand me and I am right if i said anything wrong I am sure someone will correct me.. people love to do that!!! LOL

hope this helps!!!


----------



## skupples

MCP25x2 comes with this...



Gives you the option to send the same signal to both pumps. You are correct, the pumps are powered via molex @ PSU, then you can use this included cable to connect both PWM's & feed it from one 4 or 3 pin header, though iv'e never tried using the 3pin part.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> MCP25x2 comes with this...
> 
> 
> 
> Gives you the option to send the same signal to both pumps. You are correct, the pumps are powered via molex @ PSU, then you can use this included cable to connect both PWM's & feed it from one 4 or 3 pin header, though iv'e never tried using the 3pin part.


I didn't see where he mentioned dual 35X's, or did I just miss it?????

Assuming a dual 35X setup;

The splitter cable works OK to control the speed of 2 pumps from a single channel to keep them matched/synchronized, but if you connect the secondary back to the Aquaero to monitor the second pump's rpm, it ties up a channel that could often be put to better use.

You could run the second pump's tach output back to a mobo header if you really wanted to keep track of it while not tying up an Aquaero channel.

Darlene


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 3 MCP35x pumps? What on earth for?


1 of the people i know have 6 MCP35x in a single case ...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes to question 1
> 
> with the PMW mcp35x it is powered from the PSU and the PMW signal comes from the AQ6.. I dont know if you will be making your own cables or your level of experiance with this and other electrical items. so I hope I dont confuse you but I am telling you this off the top of my head. the PMW pump comes with a molex 4 pin that you hook to the PSU and a 3 pin that you will hook to the AQ6 for RPM and PMW signal
> 
> to me the 24 pin is not needed. because of what you said and other reasons...
> 
> hopefully you understand me and I am right if i said anything wrong I am sure someone will correct me.. people love to do that!!! LOL
> 
> hope this helps!!!


Thanks, definitely helps +1

Just wanted to point out that the mcp35x (I don't have a mcp35x2) comes with a 4 pin cable, not 3 pin although only 2 leads are filled. So I presume a direct connection to PWM header 1 on the AQ6.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes to question 1
> 
> with the PMW mcp35x it is powered from the PSU and the PMW signal comes from the AQ6.. I dont know if you will be making your own cables or your level of experiance with this and other electrical items. so I hope I dont confuse you but I am telling you this off the top of my head. the PMW pump comes with a molex 4 pin that you hook to the PSU and a 3 pin that you will hook to the AQ6 for RPM and PMW signal
> 
> to me the 24 pin is not needed. because of what you said and other reasons...
> 
> hopefully you understand me and I am right if i said anything wrong I am sure someone will correct me.. people love to do that!!! LOL
> 
> hope this helps!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, definitely helps +1
> 
> Just wanted to point out that the mcp35x (I don't have a mcp35x2) comes with a 4 pin cable, not 3 pin although only 2 leads are filled. So I presume a direct connection to PWM header 1 on the AQ6.
Click to expand...

NO, Connects to any one of the fan headers on the AQ6.

You'll have to set fan control to PWM in the setup for that channel.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Sorry, that was what I had meant. I can definitely see where my post was misleading though. Thanks for the confirmation!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks, definitely helps +1
> 
> Just wanted to point out that the mcp35x (I don't have a mcp35x2) comes with a 4 pin cable, not 3 pin although only 2 leads are filled. So I presume a direct connection to PWM header 1 on the AQ6.


ok you are right.. I am getting older and cant remember as much!! glad to help and you understood what I was saying...

these 16 hour days at work don't help either!!!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and expose my noobyness a bit and ask for a clarification on AquaComputer's devices.

Aquaero: main control center
High Flow Sensor: high flow sensor that runs off 3 pin
Inline Temp Sensor: temp sensor that runs off 2 pin(?)
Power Adjust: ??? - I think this is for running multiple pumps on PWM, correct? I am a bit confused on what the PA does exactly.

And what else are the more commonly used Aquaero/AquaComputer devices that most people get?

Please excuse my confusion/ignorance toward these products. I just would like a description from an actual user of these products...helps that they're a fellow OCN member lol


----------



## VSG

lol I was/am in the same position as you but I think you are pretty much spot on.


----------



## skupples

People are going to be mad @ me when they find out all i'm doing with my A6XT is power 20 fans & a mcp35x2.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> I'm gonna go out on a limb here and expose my noobyness a bit and ask for a clarification on AquaComputer's devices.
> 
> Aquaero: main control center
> High Flow Sensor: high flow sensor that runs off 3 pin
> Inline Temp Sensor: temp sensor that runs off 2 pin(?)
> Power Adjust: ??? - I think this is for running multiple pumps on PWM, correct? I am a bit confused on what the PA does exactly.
> 
> And what else are the more commonly used Aquaero/AquaComputer devices that most people get?
> 
> Please excuse my confusion/ignorance toward these products. I just would like a description from an actual user of these products...helps that they're a fellow OCN member lol


PowerAdjust's have no PWM function. They're basically for allowing you to run more amps off your Aquaero. They also add some extra temp sensors i think. Everything else seems right.

Adding an LT as a slave device is another useful addition to an Aquaero setup. Gives you some temp sensors and fan channels, no extra PWM there either tho
The Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus version is another useful addition. It's basically a D5 Vario that lets you control it electronically instead of turning the knob. It can be real useful if you have an Aquaero cuz you don't have to use up a channel on it, you can just control it through the Aquabus
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> People are going to be mad @ me when they find out all i'm doing with my A6XT is power 20 fans & a mcp35x2.


What's wrong with that? Lol, that's definitely a decent setup


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> PowerAdjust's have no PWM function. They're basically for allowing you to run more amps off your Aquaero. They also add some extra temp sensors i think. Everything else seems right.
> What's wrong with that? Lol, that's definitely a decent setup


It's missing all the sensors n stuff... & No Aquabus (idk what it even is) it's software or something right?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the temp sensors are how most people control their setups with an Aquaero. So yeah, i guess not using a single temp sensor is a little strange









Aquabus is how you connect Aquacomputer devices to the Aquaero. The Aquaero comes with 2 Aquabus connectors, a Low Speed and a High Speed. They're labeled on the PCB. Like if you wanna connect a PowerAdjust, or AC D5, or Multiswitch, or Pressure Sensor, you'd connect em to the Aquaero's Aquabus port.

It's great for the fact you don't have to use the channels on the Aquaero to connect stuff. You can use Y Splitters with Aquabus devices


----------



## skupples

Sounds like future upgrades to me. Phase one is functionality, phase two is aesthetics & pimping.


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And here are the screenshots to accompany this fine suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set fans to the range you are comfortable with
> 
> 
> 
> Make virtual sensor based on water - ambient delta
> 
> 
> 
> Select fans to react when that delta goes above an arbitrary value, say 10C.
> 
> 
> 
> The idea is not to base your fans speeds on CPU or GPU temps. But instead to assume that the water temp is a good indication of how much heat is coming from all your components. Let the Aquaero try to keep the water temp steady, it will decide the actual fan speed within the range you selected.
> 
> Obviously with more sensors you can make a more complex setup.


WiSK, do you also use aquasuite to control your pump speed?


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What are your inline sensors sensing?


they are bitspower inline tempsensors, so in the loop giving temps of the cooling liquid. Normally you will not see a big temp difference in 1 loop, but I wanted to do a bit overkill and placed them in my rads.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i have 6 Phobya Inline Temp Sensors in the build i'm workin on.  These

I was gonna put em on every rads inlet and outlet, but i have 4 rads now and there'll be a few rad -> rad runs so 6 should suffice. I'm pretty sure any 10k temp sensor will work with the Aquero, whether air or water sensor.

Also, correction on what i said before about the Power Adjust. It has 1 external temp sensor port, 1 flow meter port, 1 RPM signal port, 2 Aquabus ports, and 1 3Pin fan/pump connector port. It lets you run 25W (12v @ 2A) off the header, with a 48W startup boost. It's mostly used for voltage controlling pumps, but you could also run a pretty decent bank of fans with it


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not really... these sensors also have a so called B value which must be 3435 in our case. For example I know that the 10kOhm sensors from Koolance use a different B value which means when used with an aquaero they will also show the correct temperature at the the reference of 25°C but the more you go up or down, the bigger the difference to the real temperature will be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, i have 6 Phobya Inline Temp Sensors in the build i'm workin on.  These
> 
> I was gonna put em on every rads inlet and outlet, but i have 4 rads now and there'll be a few rad -> rad runs so 6 should suffice. I'm pretty sure any 10k temp sensor will work with the Aquero, whether air or water sensor.
> 
> Also, correction on what i said before about the Power Adjust. It has 1 external temp sensor port, 1 flow meter port, 1 RPM signal port, 2 Aquabus ports, and 1 3Pin fan/pump connector port. It lets you run 25W (12v @ 2A) off the header, with a 48W startup boost. It's mostly used for voltage controlling pumps, but you could also run a pretty decent bank of fans with it


actually not any 10k see what Shoggy told me. he also said that the phobya will work....


----------



## kpoeticg

Guess i was misinformed about that. Not too suprised about the Koolance though. I actually didn't even realize Koolance was 10k. Koolance's rads only work with Koolance fittings too


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> WiSK, do you also use aquasuite to control your pump speed?


Yes. I set my pump for PWM duty between 20% and 40% and made a set-point controller to aim for 9.5C water-air delta. So the pump ramps up first, then at 10C delta the fans ramp up too.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes. I set my pump for PWM duty between 20% and 40% and made a set-point controller to aim for 9.5C water-air delta. So the pump ramps up first, then at 10C delta the fans ramp up too.


wisk I was told that the best sensor to use on the pumps was the CPU Temp by the software temp sensors... that way pumps speed up when CPU temp increases...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> wisk I was told that the best sensor to use on the pumps was the CPU Temp by the software temp sensors... that way pumps speed up when CPU temp increases...


IMO it's better to set pump speed with a flow sensor. Running the PWM off a CPU Temp is really just gonna make for a noisy system. Isn't gonna help your temps so much. If you get a Flow Sensor, and just set it to make sure your system stays around 1.5GPM or whatever u prefer, it'll be much more effecient and less noisy

That's my understanding anyway
When my understanding differs from seross or WiSK though, usually means my understandings faulty


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> wisk I was told that the best sensor to use on the pumps was the CPU Temp by the software temp sensors... that way pumps speed up when CPU temp increases...


And what if your CPU is on low use, but your GPU is running hard?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And what if your CPU is on low use, but your GPU is running hard?


That's why loop delta is always better.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> That's why loop delta is always better.


Delta of air and loop temperatures or two different loop location temperatures?


----------



## WiSK

Two measurements within the loop shouldn't vary by much, it's not a useful measurement for controlling fans.

Ambient v loop delta if your fans are mostly fresh-air intake, or case temp v loop delta if your fans are mostly exhaust.


----------



## kpoeticg

For rad fans, the in/out delta of that particular rad is the best way to control fans on it. That's why alot of people stick temp sensors on both rad ports


----------



## dseg

Is anyone's A6 idle at a hot temp?
My Aquero CPU is the hottest thing on my computer at idle @ 39C. My CPU is 33C and Nvidia 780 is @ 29C


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> For rad fans, the in/out delta of that particular rad is the best way to control fans on it. That's why alot of people stick temp sensors on both rad ports


Not sure about that. Since the in/out delta of the rad is directly proportional to the speed of the fan, it's kind of circular. It doesn't give you any relative reference.

For example, if the CPU and GPU are idle, the water temp inlet is say 30C and outlet is say 29C - a delta of 1C. If the CPU and GPU are under load, let's say inlet is 40C, the fans need actually to run slower to get the outlet down to 39C.


----------



## kpoeticg

But as that circle goes around between all your rads, the temp should be dropping with it.
I completely understand what you're saying (i think). But as the inlet temp rises, the delta will grow because the rad will be dumping more heat, which means the fans need to spin faster. As the temps drop back down, so will the delta, which means your fans can spin slower.

That's always how i understood it...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And what if your CPU is on low use, but your GPU is running hard?


wisk I don't have practical experience with this yet!!! soon but not yet!!! But I think it was Shoggy that said to use the software temps of your cpu to control the speed of your pumps. because more flow will cool the cpu and other items better.

now couldnt you set up a delta with the GPU and the CPU so that no matter what one temp increased then the pumps would increase flow.. if you understand what I am saying?

it was explained to me that flow would do more to keep the water blocks cool than fans. and that makes sense to me anyway. i am not explaining what I am trying to say best and I am not disagreeing with anyone. but to me in my demented mind. you want pumps and fans as slow as possible. as temps of parts come up you increase flow which cools them better then using the ambient water temp you increase fan speed as needed...

if someone don't agree with this explain and tell me why??


----------



## kpoeticg

I always understood it as the complete opposite. Rads lower temps, pump feeds the rads, fans cool rads

Everything i've read has said that after ~1.5GPM flowrate, the increases are ineffecient. That's why there's not alot of PWM pumps. Generally a pump speeding up and slowing down won't do anything for you except make noise. I know AiO coolers are made to increase with CPU temps. But complex watercooling systems run by Aquaero's i think are cooled better with a steady 1.5GPM flowrate.

I think i've seen Shoggy mention b4 that they use lower flowrates over there, that might be why increasing the pump with the temps would be helpful. Martins done alot of research on it.

The theory makes sense, faster the water flows through the loop, the more time it spends in radiators. But research shows that after ~1.5GPM, there's more negatives for the small increases u might see


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I always understood it as the complete opposite. Rads lower temps, pump feeds the rads, fans cool rads
> 
> Everything i've read has said that after ~1.5GPM flowrate, the increases are ineffecient. That's why there's not alot of PWM pumps. Generally a pump speeding up and slowing down won't do anything for you except make noise. I know AiO coolers are made to increase with CPU temps. But complex watercooling systems run by Aquaero's i think are cooled better with a steady 1.5GPM flowrate.
> 
> I think i've seen Shoggy mention b4 that they use lower flowrates over there, that might be why increasing the pump with the temps would be helpful. Martins done alot of research on it.
> 
> The theory makes sense, faster the water flows through the loop, the more time it spends in radiators. But research shows that after ~1.5GPM, there's more negatives for the small increases u might see


yes because of the efficiency of the blocks about 1.5 is were you start seeing diminishing returns. but if you run them at .5gpm until you need them then slowly ramp up as the temps increase then it would be less noise because usually you are not going to load and unload the system fast and you can set the values to compensate for this.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, that's the difference then. Alot of people just let it rock at 1.5. If that's how your system's setup then fan control is the most important thing. If you wanna lower pump RPM's when it's not needed as much, it changes things a bit.


----------



## X-Nine

You have to figure too that your loop will reach equilibrium, and will only vary by 1-2C around hot blocks. Going for a single point of data (like the reservoir) to determine fan speed would be just fine, because as your CPU/GPU heat up, so does the entire loop, but again, it's all very close in temps from one area to the next.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You have to figure too that your loop will reach equilibrium, and will only vary by 1-2C around hot blocks. Going for a single point of data (like the reservoir) to determine fan speed would be just fine, because as your CPU/GPU heat up, so does the entire loop, but again, it's all very close in temps from one area to the next.


fan speed yes I will be using the water out of the res and the ambient temp to get a virtual temps sensor that will be used to control the fans. and I will use the soft ware temp sensor from the CPU and highest GPU to make a virtual sensor to control the pumps.

this way I can have the pumps at the lowest speed it will maintain the temps at idle then ramp up from there.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You have to figure too that your loop will reach equilibrium, and will only vary by 1-2C around hot blocks. Going for a single point of data (like the reservoir) to determine fan speed would be just fine, because as your CPU/GPU heat up, so does the entire loop, but again, it's all very close in temps from one area to the next.
> 
> 
> 
> fan speed yes I will be using the water out of the res and the ambient temp to get a virtual temps sensor that will be used to control the fans. and I will use the soft ware temp sensor from the CPU and highest GPU to make a virtual sensor to control the pumps.
> 
> this way I can have the pumps at the lowest speed it will maintain the temps at idle then ramp up from there.
Click to expand...

Sounds like just the ticket!


----------



## suicidegybe

I have an Aquaero 6 and a tubemeter coming it should be here in the morning but I did not realize I needed this cable http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1969 to connect the tubemeter to the aquabus connection on the Aquaero 6. I do have Molex connectors, 3 & 4 pin fan connectors, crimpers, and pins and I am fairly handy. Can anyone tell me how I can convert the USB cable that comes with the tubemeter into the tubemeter aquabus cable. What pins do I connect to the Molex connector and then what three and in what order do I connect them to the 3 pin connector to connect to the Aquaero 6 for the aquabus. Or can I just use a 4 pin aquabus cable.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I always understood it as the complete opposite. Rads lower temps, pump feeds the rads, fans cool rads
> 
> Everything i've read has said that after ~1.5GPM flowrate, the increases are ineffecient. That's why there's not alot of PWM pumps. Generally a pump speeding up and slowing down won't do anything for you except make noise. I know AiO coolers are made to increase with CPU temps. But complex watercooling systems run by Aquaero's i think are cooled better with a steady 1.5GPM flowrate.
> 
> I think i've seen Shoggy mention b4 that they use lower flowrates over there, that might be why increasing the pump with the temps would be helpful. Martins done alot of research on it.
> 
> The theory makes sense, faster the water flows through the loop, the more time it spends in radiators. But research shows that after ~1.5GPM, there's more negatives for the small increases u might see


I gotta D5 and a MCP350 in my loop, with my D5 Vario set at "3" and the 350 on a fan controller. At idle, if I ramp up the 350 to full speed, temps lower by 1-2c. But the 350 has quite a whine compared to the D5, even at full speed (setting "5") so I always run the 350 at about 1700rpm. Temps are just fine, but in full gaming mode with the speakers blasting, I turn up the pump.

Then again this is all figured without a flow sensor. That is coming soon


----------



## VSG

Can I assume the AQ6 comes with a cable that hooks to the CPU header or do I need to buy one?


----------



## pilotter

you mean to read the cpu temp, you would need to use a program like aida64 or hardwaremonitor.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The theory makes sense, faster the water flows through the loop, the more time it spends in radiators. But research shows that after ~1.5GPM, there's more negatives for the small increases u might see


Actually something to think of and that is flow is not speed... GPM does not tell you how fast the water is moving!!! it is actually suppose to be a measurement of volume, pressure is closer to the speed of the water than GPM. and the higher the volume of water the more heat you can move. but you will reach a point of diminishing returns due to several factors most of all the efficiency of the block to move heat. 1.5 GPM is the ideal point and like you said over this your increases are linearly smaller up to a point and actually then they will decrease, because the water flow is so large it dose not absorb any heat..

and you were right about more time the water spends in the radiator the better. but actually the best way to do this is like a cars thermostat. it regulates the amount of water out of the radiator based on temp this is a regulating valve. but because of size we can not do this in a computer...

we do this with engines regulate the flow into the waterblocks (heat exchangers) and also regulate the flow out of the radiator but to do this we have bypasses and 2 big expansion tanks or reservoirs. we feed the water from the engines and the bypass into a reservoir that is open to air so that the volume can fluctuate and then it goes to the radiators that have big header boxes on them depending on the temp of the water these can hold double the volume of the radiator. so we are able to slow down the flow and not run out of water and with the bypasses we never over pressurize the system.. but there is just not enough space in a PC to do this correctly plus the added maintenance of having a open system.

bored so just some thermodynamics...


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow, i always thought GPM was just a speed measurement.

So does that make a High Flow Sensor or a MPS Pressure Sensor more useful for managing your temps???

I'm too close to going to sleep to fully absorb that right now LOLLLLL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> you mean to read the cpu temp, you would need to use a program like aida64 or hardwaremonitor.


He's talking about an RPM cable pretty sure. And it's listed in the specs as included with Aquaero.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wow, i always thought GPM was just a speed measurement.
> 
> So does that make a High Flow Sensor or a MPS Pressure Sensor more useful for managing your temps???
> 
> I'm too close to going to sleep to fully absorb that right now LOLLLLL
> He's talking about an RPM cable pretty sure. And it's listed in the specs as included with Aquaero.


a flow sensor would be better not pressure.


----------



## kpoeticg

Good cuz that's what i bought a cpl weeks ago.
















Just making sure i didn't make another purchasing mistake


----------



## goodtobeking

*sorry tried to post this the other day but my crummy ISP wouldnt let me upload this comment*

I wanna chime in on this. I dont have a Aquaero 6, but I do have a 5 LT.

I have a MCPx2 that is controlled via the water/air delta. I did originally have it hooked up to be controlled via CPU temps like Seross69 said. But I didnt like the effect it had on the pump since whenever the CPU would be put under load the pump would noticeably raise in noise too, and the same when the load dropped. So sometimes you would hear the pump speed up and then slow back down. And If your CPU load jumps from say 10%-90%, which can happen a lot when you BOINC, it will drive you nuts!!

My MCPx2 is the loudest thing in my rig. Fans can get kinda loud too, but I use Akasa Viper and Apache fans, so they stay pretty quiet even at full speed. I do have a 120 rad between my GPUs and CPU, and a 360 after the CPU. I use the radiator inbetween components to help dissipate the heat generated by said component, by running that radiator's fan off the that components temperature. Then I have a third radiator, 200mm with a custom made shroud to hold 2x120 fans, that runs off of water temperature to help keep the water cool as possible.

This way it is a lot less noticeable when my rig changes temperature due to uneven loads.

And as for the water temp sensors. I have 4 of them in my loop giving temperature differences in my components and radiators. I would like to note that all the ones I have work, but it seems they all read slightly different temps. I was wondering why the water from my 360 was hotter than it went in. Until I tore down my loop and put all the sensors inline connected to each other. I dont recall the exact differences, but what I remember is that 2 were within .5, while the other two were almost a full degree off the "average" of the first two. I have 1 phobya, 1 bitspower, and 2 Aquacomputer sensors. I dont remember which gave what reading

My guess would be that what Shoggy said earlier was right(obviously right??), and that the different sensors would work. But to be most accurate you need the ones designed to work with this unit.


----------



## skupples

My #1 beef with using the CPU header is that restarting the system/saving bios causes the mcp35x2 to run @ 100% (FROM BOTH PUMPS) which causes it to suck allot of air. I haven't figured out a way to keep it from doing this, & it doesn't always do it. Mostly when just doing the two things listed above.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> *sorry tried to post this the other day but my crummy ISP wouldnt let me upload this comment*
> 
> I wanna chime in on this. I dont have a Aquaero 6, but I do have a 5 LT.
> 
> I have a MCPx2 that is controlled via the water/air delta. I did originally have it hooked up to be controlled via CPU temps like Seross69 said. But I didnt like the effect it had on the pump since whenever the CPU would be put under load the pump would noticeably raise in noise too, and the same when the load dropped. So sometimes you would hear the pump speed up and then slow back down. And If your CPU load jumps from say 10%-90%, which can happen a lot when you BOINC, it will drive you nuts!!
> 
> My MCPx2 is the loudest thing in my rig. Fans can get kinda loud too, but I use Akasa Viper and Apache fans, so they stay pretty quiet even at full speed. I do have a 120 rad between my GPUs and CPU, and a 360 after the CPU. I use the radiator inbetween components to help dissipate the heat generated by said component, by running that radiator's fan off the that components temperature. Then I have a third radiator, 200mm with a custom made shroud to hold 2x120 fans, that runs off of water temperature to help keep the water cool as possible.
> 
> This way it is a lot less noticeable when my rig changes temperature due to uneven loads.
> 
> And as for the water temp sensors. I have 4 of them in my loop giving temperature differences in my components and radiators. I would like to note that all the ones I have work, but it seems they all read slightly different temps. I was wondering why the water from my 360 was hotter than it went in. Until I tore down my loop and put all the sensors inline connected to each other. I dont recall the exact differences, but what I remember is that 2 were within .5, while the other two were almost a full degree off the "average" of the first two. I have 1 phobya, 1 bitspower, and 2 Aquacomputer sensors. I dont remember which gave what reading
> 
> My guess would be that what Shoggy said earlier was right(obviously right??), and that the different sensors would work. But to be most accurate you need the ones designed to work with this unit.


Yes you need to AQ ones to be the most accurate but I think as long as they are all the same you should get good enough readings to make this work for you... I wished I had bought AQ temp sensors but I bought 16 Phobya and do not want to have to buy 16 new ones!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

I didn't wanna get AC sensors cuz i don't have any Nickel in my loop and i'm tryin to keep it that way. The Phobya Matte Black ones are Brass. I'm pretty sure as long as you use all the same brand you'll be fine. There might be a setting to calibrate em, unless i'm confusing it with the flow sensor on that.

Also, as far as the pumps, that's why some people don't like PWM pumps. And one of the main reasons alot of people don't like using temps to control flowrate with PWM. It's noisy listening to your pump shift gears all day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My #1 beef with using the CPU header is that restarting the system/saving bios causes the mcp35x2 to run @ 100% (FROM BOTH PUMPS) which causes it to suck allot of air. I haven't figured out a way to keep it from doing this, & it doesn't always do it. Mostly when just doing the two things listed above.


Did you try setting your startup boost to a lower setting? Or even turning it off for the pumps since they're PWM.
I don't have my Aquaero yet, so I'm just guessing from stuff i've read


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I didn't wanna get AC sensors cuz i don't have any Nickel in my loop and i'm tryin to keep it that way. The Phobya Matte Black ones are Brass. I'm pretty sure as long as you use all the same brand you'll be fine. There might be a setting to calibrate em, unless i'm confusing it with the flow sensor on that.
> 
> Also, as far as the pumps, that's why some people don't like PWM pumps. And one of the main reasons alot of people don't like using temps to control flowrate with PWM. It's noisy listening to your pump shift gears all day.


yes you can calibrate the sensors and I have a very nice meter to do this with so why not put it in line and claibrate the sensors one by one.. dang first you make me spend money now you make more work!!! LOL







good idea buddy...

I am going to try and set my curve where it does not do this but if it is doing that and not a gradual I will not leave it for sure.. noise does not bother me as long as it is constant. when it changes like that it drives me crazy... crazy I tell you!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> yes you can calibrate the sensors and I have a very nice meter to do this with so why not put it in line and claibrate the sensors one by one..
> 
> 
> dang first you make me spend money now you make more work!!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good idea buddy...
> 
> I am going to try and set my curve where it does not do this but if it is doing that and not a gradual I will not leave it for sure.. noise does not bother me as long as it is constant. when it changes like that it drives me crazy... crazy I tell you!!!!




Do me a favor and keep me posted about calibrating the Phobya's. I have neither the tools nor the knowledge to do it myself


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I didn't wanna get AC sensors cuz i don't have any Nickel in my loop and i'm tryin to keep it that way. The Phobya Matte
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Black ones are Brass. I'm pretty sure as long as you use all the same brand you'll be fine. There might be a setting to calibrate em, unless i'm confusing it with the flow sensor on that.
> 
> Also, as far as the pumps, that's why some people don't like PWM pumps. And one of the main reasons alot of people don't like using temps to control flowrate with PWM. It's noisy listening to your pump shift gears all day.
> Did you try setting your startup boost to a lower setting? Or even turning it off for the pumps since they're PWM.
> 
> 
> I don't have my Aquaero yet, so I'm just guessing from stuff i've read


I'm talking about the cpu_header PWM signal, not the A6. It's the main reason I got the A6.


----------



## kpoeticg

Sorry. Apparently i forgot how to read


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry. Apparently i forgot how to read


----------



## Sneakybastard

Is there a way of letting the Aquaero 6 run fans/pump a few minutes after the PC is powered off?
Cause I would like to be able to cool the CPU a few minutes after shutdown.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> Is there a way of letting the Aquaero 6 run fans/pump a few minutes after the PC is powered off?
> Cause I would like to be able to cool the CPU a few minutes after shutdown.


I don't believe so. You can do it with a second PSU & this unit from ADD2PSU


What I mean to say is, if the A6 had a separate power source, fed from this unit (white nob is a timer) it could be done.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> Is there a way of letting the Aquaero 6 run fans/pump a few minutes after the PC is powered off?
> Cause I would like to be able to cool the CPU a few minutes after shutdown.


Your best method is using one of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c28/s1592/list/p1/b145/Bitspower_International_Co_Ltd-Computer_PSU_Accessories-Cooling_After-Page1.html


----------



## Sneakybastard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Your best method is using one of these:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c28/s1592/list/p1/b145/Bitspower_International_Co_Ltd-Computer_PSU_Accessories-Cooling_After-Page1.html


It seems to be a neat thing but the Aquaero 6 still has power on even when the PC is turned of so at least in theory it would be possible to implement such a function in it's software. If it is not allready there.


----------



## X-Nine

The aquero has power on only for the purpose of being a timer, and is powered via USB from the motherboard header. True power on would require the PSU to still be on.


----------



## VSG

How would that X-Station work off a single PSU? I am trying to understand how it can cut power to the motherboard while retaining power to itself using the same 24 pin cable. If it does indeed do that, can't it be also used to fill a loop by just powering on the pump by cutting off power to the system?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How would that X-Station work off a single PSU? I am trying to understand how it can cut power to the motherboard while retaining power to itself using the same 24 pin cable. If it does indeed do that, can't it be also used to fill a loop by just powering on the pump by cutting off power to the system?


You plug the ATX from the PSU into the X-Station, then there's another cable to the motherboard. Presumably it intercepts the green PS_ON cable to know when the motherboard wants to switch itself off, then uses a relay to cut power.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sneakybastard*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Your best method is using one of these:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c28/s1592/list/p1/b145/Bitspower_International_Co_Ltd-Computer_PSU_Accessories-Cooling_After-Page1.html
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to be a neat thing but the Aquaero 6 still has power on even when the PC is turned of so at least in theory it would be possible to implement such a function in it's software. If it is not allready there.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> The aquero has power on only for the purpose of being a timer, and is powered via USB from the motherboard header. True power on would require the PSU to still be on.


Jason's on it here,

For the AQ6 to function, the PSU would have to be on, and the issue with trying to use relays to pass the power from the PSU to the mobo so the mobo could shut down while the PSU was still on, would not be feasible given the current that has to be passed.

For a gaming station, where power is lower and simpler, it's a workable solution.

Not just so coincidentally, my Stretch build has separate auxiliary power supplies for both the pumps, and for the AQ6 and fans.

There's also a 3rd auxiliary supply for the 5V for the remote control receivers and the 12V for the side window actuators.

The idea of putting a timer to leave the pumps and fans running after system shutdown would not be particularly difficult to implement here.
















Darlene

Couple pics of the ongoing side panel effort:


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Jason's on it here,
> 
> For the AQ6 to function, the PSU would have to be on, and the issue with trying to use relays to pass the power from the PSU to the mobo so the mobo could shut down while the PSU was still on, would not be feasible given the current that has to be passed.
> 
> For a gaming station, where power is lower and simpler, it's a workable solution.
> 
> Not just so coincidentally, my Stretch build has separate auxiliary power supplies for both the pumps, and for the AQ6 and fans.
> 
> There's also a 3rd auxiliary supply for the 5V for the remote control receivers and the 12V for the side window actuators.
> 
> The idea of putting a timer to leave the pumps and fans running after system shutdown would not be particularly difficult to implement here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Couple pics of the ongoing side panel effort:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It would not be hard for you to put a timer in to keep your Aux PSU's turned on. or if someone is not as industrious as you they could just use this *Add2Psu-Delay Adapter* with the delay powering a secondary power supply.

I am going to use this as I am going to have the secondary PSU powering the Pumps and the PMW fans. so when I shut down the computer the pumps will be running and I will have 1 rad with fans going full speed for about 30 seconds to remove the heat from the waterblocks and cool everything off...

may not help much overall but I think it is good to get the heat out of the system!! And I want to do this!!!!


----------



## IT Diva

As long as you have a second, (or additional) PSU that's dedicated to running the fans and AQ6, but it'll have to run the pumps too, although I assume you're running your pumps from the AQ6.

With the CL, you'll have room somewhere, lol.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Man each time I see a post here I get excited thinking a US reseller has this in stock


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Man each time I see a post here I get excited thinking a US reseller has this in stock


Shipping is not very high from Aquatuning and delivery is usual as fast or faster than other places...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As long as you have a second, (or additional) PSU that's dedicated to running the fans and AQ6, but it'll have to run the pumps too, although I assume you're running your pumps from the AQ6.
> 
> With the CL, you'll have room somewhere, lol.
> 
> Darlene


The pumps and the set of fans will be hooked up to the secondary PSU. The fans are PMW from the AQ6 and the Pumps are AQ USB D-5 pumps controlled by the AQ. so the AQ6 does not have to be powered to run the fans or the pumps unless I am figuring wrong...

And you are right I do have plenty of room with the CL case!!









Also I have 2 questions.
1. will it make a differance for the pumps control to come from one PSU and the power for them to come from another?? I think these pumps are like PMW pumps that just use the Aquabus
2. the PMW fans does it matter if they get power from one PSU and the PMW signal from another??

Thanks in advance for your help!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shipping is not very high from Aquatuning and delivery is usual as fast or faster than other places...


Ya but I got a 10% discount code over at Frozencpu instead of having to pay an 8.5% sales tax from Aquatuning which is a pretty decent amount when you consider the cost of the AQ6 and accessories. Besides, Aquatuning itself has no stock at the moment.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya but I got a 10% discount code over at Frozencpu instead of having to pay an 8.5% sales tax from Aquatuning which is a pretty decent amount when you consider the cost of the AQ6 and accessories. Besides, Aquatuning itself has no stock at the moment.


when I looked this morning they had 3 but I have not looked this afternoon. You are more patient than me. I ordered one from Aquacomputer when they were first announced and then got a second one from aquatuning..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Your best method is using one of these:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c28/s1592/list/p1/b145/Bitspower_International_Co_Ltd-Computer_PSU_Accessories-Cooling_After-Page1.html


does that require a second PSU or no? Separate thought, wonder how I would rig that up to a dual PSU system.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> does that require a second PSU or no? Separate thought, wonder how I would rig that up to a dual PSU system.


i looked at manual and website and since it says if you have 2 PSU you need to use another piece then I am going to say it works with one.

what it most likely does is allow the MB to shut down but still power other items but I am like you I am not 100% sure!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As long as you have a second, (or additional) PSU that's dedicated to running the fans and AQ6, but it'll have to run the pumps too, although I assume you're running your pumps from the AQ6.
> 
> With the CL, you'll have room somewhere, lol.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The pumps and the set of fans will be hooked up to the secondary PSU. The fans are PMW from the AQ6 and the *Pumps are AQ USB D-5 pumps controlled by the AQ. so the AQ6 does not have to be powered to run the fans or the pumps unless I am figuring wrong...
> *
> 
> _I think you're figuring wrong, unless you're just explaining it wrong.
> 
> This could throw a major monkey wrench into your plan, depending . . . .
> 
> If the pumps are USB connected and controlled by the aquasuite software or the AQ6 via it's USB interface, none of that will work with the system mobo powered down.
> 
> For a number of PWM items, if there is no connection to the PWM signal line, they run at full speed, (though the PWM D5 runs at 60%) but having the PWM line connected to a powered down system is not necessarily the electrical equivalent to being un-connected. Some PWM pumps will stop if the PWM line is connected to ground.
> 
> Additionally, of course, it doesn't do any good to have the fans run after shutdown if the pumps are not running too._
> 
> And you are right I do have plenty of room with the CL case!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I have 2 questions.
> 1. will it make a differance for the pumps control to come from one PSU and the power for them to come from another?? I think these pumps are like PMW pumps that just use the Aquabus
> 2. the PMW fans does it matter if they get power from one PSU and the PMW signal from another??
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Click to expand...

Shoggy will have to be the one to tell us how their D5's behave when they have motor power, but no control system power and therefor no control signal.

As far as the fans, you'll have to test them to see what their behavior is with 12V power but an unpowered control line.

If memory serves me correctly, when I played with the PWM curves for the D5 and 35X, the 35X continued to run at min speed with a 0% duty cycle, which is essentially the PWM control wire being connected to ground, while the D5 stopped with 0%, but ran at minimum as soon as it was even slight above 0%.

Overall, . . . if I was to set it up, I'd be sure that the power and control were maintained after system shutdown and not leave things to chance.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shoggy will have to be the one to tell us how their D5's behave when they have motor power, but no control system power and therefor no control signal.
> 
> As far as the fans, you'll have to test them to see what their behavior is with 12V power but an unpowered control line.
> 
> If memory serves me correctly, when I played with the PWM curves for the D5 and 35X, the 35X continued to run at min speed with a 0% duty cycle, which is essentially the PWM control wire being connected to ground, while the D5 stopped with 0%, but ran at minimum as soon as it was even slight above 0%.
> 
> Overall, . . . if I was to set it up, I'd be sure that the power and control were maintained after system shutdown and not leave things to chance.
> 
> Darlene


I know for a fact that the pumps will run at 100% with out being connected because I have been doing that to leak test. But don't know about if they will when connected and no power. Now you got me thinking again.. thanks for this.. need to find this out for sure..

thank you for the help Darlene.


----------



## kpoeticg

The AC D5 pumps aren't PWM at all. They're D5 Vario's that have digital control instead of that trimpot. So the Aquaero acts as the physical knob on most Vario's & it's still limited to the 5 speeds.
Generally, you'd either connect em by Aquabus OR usb, not both. It might be possible to control by both, im not sure. I know things connected by USB have their own unrelated menu's in Aquasuite.

I'd imagine if you shut off the Aquaero but leave the D5 plugged into to ur second PSU, that the "trimpot" would remain set at whatever setting it was before the Aquaero shutdown. Like IT DIVA said tho, I'm sure Shoggy will clear it up.

Also for Shoggy, I've considered grabbing a Multiswitch LT to connect to my Aquaero. Can you tell me if there's any downsides to that? Like how an Aquaero 5 LT uses 4 of the 8 PA slots on your Aquaero, does the Multiswitch LT do anything like that? If i do end up grabbing one it would most likely just be for lighting. I'm still not sure if i'm gonna go that route yet. Thanx in advance


----------



## suicidegybe

I ordered my Aquaero 6 on Thursday and it was on my door step by Monday. I purchased directly from AC which had said it was out of stock but shipped right away. Just a little FYI for you guys waiting to order when it is in stock.

Also does anyone know how to mod the tubemeter USB cable into a aquabus cable for the tube meter


----------



## kpoeticg

THIS is the cable to connect a Tubemeter to an Aquero. FCPU sells em for 8 bucks. If you're determined to make your own though, the pic should help

Comparing the Tubemeter USB cable  looks like all you need is a 3Pin female fan connector and 4Pin Male Molex connector with pins


----------



## skupples

So much over kill. I'll gladly watch everyone else do eet!


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, the fact that my build needs a horizontal mounted res pretty much cuts in half the accessories i can use with my Aquaero. Saves me money too though


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AC D5 pumps aren't PWM at all. They're D5 Vario's that have digital control instead of that trimpot. So the Aquaero acts as the physical knob on most Vario's & it's still limited to the 5 speeds.
> Generally, you'd either connect em by Aquabus OR usb, not both. It might be possible to control by both, im not sure. I know things connected by USB have their own unrelated menu's in Aquasuite.
> 
> I'd imagine if you shut off the Aquaero but leave the D5 plugged into to ur second PSU, that the "trimpot" would remain set at whatever setting it was before the Aquaero shutdown. Like IT DIVA said tho, I'm sure Shoggy will clear it up.
> 
> Also for Shoggy, I've considered grabbing a Multiswitch LT to connect to my Aquaero. Can you tell me if there's any downsides to that? Like how an Aquaero 5 LT uses 4 of the 8 PA slots on your Aquaero, does the Multiswitch LT do anything like that? If i do end up grabbing one it would most likely just be for lighting. I'm still not sure if i'm gonna go that route yet. Thanx in advance


you could use the multiswitch for this it just connects to the Low speed Aqua Bus on the Aquaero. but all you will have with the power outputs is on and off. you can connect 2 multiswitches and 8 PA's plus a tubemeter and up to 4 MIPS devices..


----------



## seross69

Shoggy,

Could you help me with the below questions?

1. If I have the AQ USB D-5 Pumps connected to the Aquaero with the AquaBus as a MIPS device and shut down the power to the Aquaero and still have 12v going to the pumps will they continue to run??

2. IF a have a set of PMW fans with just the RPM and sense connected to the Aquaero and shut down the aquaero and still have 12v going to the fans will they run full speed or not run??

thanks in advance for you help and guidance in this matter..


----------



## lee-turbo

Tried to remove the silver front plate, seem to be glue to touch button, need to use heatgun and heat up and remove?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee-turbo*
> 
> Tried to remove the silver front plate, seem to be glue to touch button, need to use heatgun and heat up and remove?


Shoggy said just to gently pry it up and that is what other people in this thread report doing! they are using razor knife to do this...


----------



## lee-turbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shoggy said just to gently pry it up and that is what other people in this thread report doing!


tried with finger nail, no go
maybe tried with craft knife later


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee-turbo*
> 
> tried with finger nail, no go
> maybe tried with craft knife later


people have been using razor knife to do this with...


----------



## LiquidHaus

Not sure if this has been asked or not, but would using the "Alphacool flow indicator G1/4 with rpm signal - Plexi" work with the A6? I assume it'd have to be calibrated or something so the A6 would read the signal correctly. But it'd save me some money if I could get this and not the high flow aquacomputer one.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Not sure if this has been asked or not, but would using the "Alphacool flow indicator G1/4 with rpm signal - Plexi" work with the A6? I assume it'd have to be calibrated or something so the A6 would read the signal correctly. But it'd save me some money if I could get this and not the high flow aquacomputer one.


it might would work but I think you are better off getting the Aquacomputer one especially seeing how the temp sensors are different. be hard to calibrate this because how will you check it?


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it might would work but I think you are better off getting the Aquacomputer one especially seeing how the temp sensors are different. be hard to calibrate this because how will you check it?


The Alphacool one doesn't have an included temp sensor. It's just the flow sensor based on an RPM header. I would be able to run this, along with a temp sensor going to the A6, rather than the High Flow AC one having the temp sensor hooked to that and that connected to the A6 via USB. That's all in theory though.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure that you can hook up any Flow Sensor to one of the fan channels (Ch.1 i think...). I think you can only hook up an AC Flow Meter to the Flow Port though.
Also, if you have an Aquaero you don't need to get the USB version of the AC Flowmeter. The USB version is for hooking straight up to your mobo without an Aquaero. The version without USB's cheaper and will function exactly the same with the Aquaero. Also will save a fan channel if you go with the AC Flow Meter


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shoggy will have to be the one to tell us how their D5's behave when they have motor power, but no control system power and therefor no control signal.


They continue to run with the speed that you have set lately. There is not such a thing like a permanent control signal like PWM. You set the speed by USB or aquabus and the pump runs with it till it is changed to another setting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I know for a fact that the pumps will run at 100% with out being connected because I have been doing that to leak test.


They were running at full speed because this is the default setting when they leave our company. As said, if you change the setting it will stay till you change it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Generally, you'd either connect em by Aquabus OR usb, not both. It might be possible to control by both, im not sure.
> 
> Also for Shoggy, I've considered grabbing a Multiswitch LT to connect to my Aquaero. Can you tell me if there's any downsides to that? Like how an Aquaero 5 LT uses 4 of the 8 PA slots on your Aquaero, does the Multiswitch LT do anything like that? If i do end up grabbing one it would most likely just be for lighting. I'm still not sure if i'm gonna go that route yet. Thanx in advance


You can connect the pump to USB and aquabus at the same time. In the system tab of the pump you can define if USB or aquabus has a higher priority. For example you set it to aquabus and want to change the speed via USB, it will be ignored because the aquaero will always overwrite it via aquabus.

You can connect two multiswitch devices to the aquaero (aquabus lowspeed) but when connected this way you can only switch it channels on and off. If you want to control the power of each channel you have to use only USB. Please note that the multiswitch uses 12V PWM so it is good to control LEDs and things like that but not recommend for fans since many of them will generate an annoying humming noise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 1. If I have the AQ USB D-5 Pumps connected to the Aquaero with the AquaBus as a MIPS device and shut down the power to the Aquaero and still have 12v going to the pumps will they continue to run??
> 
> 2. IF a have a set of PMW fans with just the RPM and sense connected to the Aquaero and shut down the aquaero and still have 12v going to the fans will they run full speed or not run??


As mentioned before the pump will continue to run with the speed that you have set lately.

When the main power is turned off the aquaero will not generate any more PWM signals. Most PWM fans will run at 100% speed when they receive no PWM signal. So the fans should run in your case but that depends on the internal electronic of the fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that you can hook up any Flow Sensor to one of the fan channels (Ch.1 i think...). I think you can only hook up an AC Flow Meter to the Flow Port though.


On the flow port you can connect any flow sensor that works with 5V and a regular tacho signal. Fan channel 1 can be also set as a second flow port and will work exactly the same way as the dedicated flow port.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that you can hook up any Flow Sensor to one of the fan channels (Ch.1 i think...). I think you can only hook up an AC Flow Meter to the Flow Port though.
> Also, if you have an Aquaero you don't need to get the USB version of the AC Flowmeter. The USB version is for hooking straight up to your mobo without an Aquaero. The version without USB's cheaper and will function exactly the same with the Aquaero. Also will save a fan channel if you go with the AC Flow Meter


Ahhhh. Okay that all makes sense.

My A6 "setup" isn't going to be super crazy.

WiSK's posts about running sensors for the A6 to calculate delta was helpful as well, so I think I will get an external temp sensor, an inline coolant temp sensor, flow sensor, and then calibrate the A6 so it'll keep delta within a certain parameter that I specify.

I'll need to wire up my D5 Vario to a 3 pin header as well it seems.

But the problem I'd face is I have a D5, and a MCP350. Very different pumps. So they'd act differently with their voltage inputs.

I'm assuming I can set my D5 so the "5" setting, and have the A6 only output the necessary voltage to that to keep a certain delta. But I'd also like to do the same with the 350, but with the D5 doing most of the work, and the 350 doing about a 3rd of the work.

Is that at all possible to calibrate on the A6?


----------



## seross69

Thanks for all the help Shoggy!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Wrong again








That's it. I quit the internet. I expect my last paycheck on Friday. I'll take an Aquaero 6 Pro instead though.....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Wrong again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it. I quit the internet. I expect my last paycheck on Friday. I'll take an Aquaero 6 Pro instead though.....


you was right about the D-5's


----------



## kpoeticg

That's true. OK no quitting









Also, thanks seross and shoggy for the help about the Multiswitch. That sucks you can't use the PWM feature in Aquabus. Maybe I'll just run it USB then if i grab one. I wouldn't be controlling any fans with it. Just lighting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that you can hook up any Flow Sensor to one of the fan channels (Ch.1 i think...). I think you can only hook up an AC Flow Meter to the Flow Port though.
> Also, if you have an Aquaero you don't need to get the USB version of the AC Flowmeter. The USB version is for hooking straight up to your mobo without an Aquaero. The version without USB's cheaper and will function exactly the same with the Aquaero. Also will save a fan channel if you go with the AC Flow Meter
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhhh. Okay that all makes sense.
> 
> My A6 "setup" isn't going to be super crazy.
> 
> WiSK's posts about running sensors for the A6 to calculate delta was helpful as well, so I think I will get an external temp sensor, an inline coolant temp sensor, flow sensor, and then calibrate the A6 so it'll keep delta within a certain parameter that I specify.
> 
> I'll need to wire up my D5 Vario to a 3 pin header as well it seems.
> 
> *But the problem I'd face is I have a D5, and a MCP350. Very different pumps. So they'd act differently with their voltage inputs.
> *
> I'm assuming I can set my D5 so the "5" setting, and have the A6 only output the necessary voltage to that to keep a certain delta. But I'd also like to do the same with the 350, but with the D5 doing most of the work, and the 350 doing about a 3rd of the work.
> 
> Is that at all possible to calibrate on the A6?
Click to expand...

Running the pumps in a variable speed mode based on either CPU temp or a air/water delta just isn't the solution it seems it might be at first glance.

Pump speed should really be considered as "set it & forget it".

At speeds below the point where you have turbulent flow, the temps will run unnecessarily high, and as you reach the point where flow becomes turbulent, the temps come down fairly rapidly, but the speed range for just before turbulent to just after, is fairly small.

Additionally, there's little advantage of running at speeds greater than needed for turbulent flow, you're up against diminishing returns with the sound level going up big time.

With today's pumps, and especially with so many dual pump setups, it so easy to maintain turbulent flow producing flow rates at lower rpms, that changing pump speeds to mediate the sound level isn't usually a sufficient part of the overall equation any more.

Further more, Changing pump speeds to where you can go below turbulent flow, then has the interactive effect of raising temps and triggering fan speed increases, and you may end up with more devices speeding up / slowing down due to temp interrelationships creating very disturbing noise patterns.

To use both pump and fan control, I think it was Wisk who had the best plan, where the pumps were managed within a relatively small speed range at the beginning of the overall control scheme, and then the fans took over once the pump was at 40% or so.

With 2 different pumps, I'd look at setting both to an acceptable sound level, and letting the fans control the delta t.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Running the pumps in a variable speed mode based on either CPU temp or a air/water delta just isn't the solution it seems it might be at first glance.
> 
> Pump speed should really be considered as "set it & forget it".
> 
> At speeds below the point where you have turbulent flow, the temps will run unnecessarily high, and as you reach the point where flow becomes turbulent, the temps come down fairly rapidly, but the speed range for just before turbulent to just after, is fairly small.
> 
> Additionally, there's little advantage of running at speeds greater than needed for turbulent flow, you're up against diminishing returns with the sound level going up big time.
> 
> With today's pumps, and especially with so many dual pump setups, it so easy to maintain turbulent flow producing flow rates at lower rpms, that changing pump speeds to mediate the sound level isn't usually a sufficient part of the equation any more.
> 
> Further more, Changing pump speeds to where you can go below turbulent flow, then has the interactive effect of raising temps and triggering fan speed increases, and you may end up with more devices speeding up / slowing down due to temp interrelationships creating very disturbing noise patters.
> 
> To use both pump and fan control, I think it was Wisk who had the best plan, where the pumps were managed within a relatively small speed range at the beginning of the overall control scheme, and then the fans took over once the pump was at 40% or so.
> 
> With 2 different pumps, I'd look at setting both to an acceptable sound level, and letting the fans control the delta t.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for this Darlene you have given me something to think about as I know this is all from your personal experience.

I think where I keep thinking about varying the flow is because we do that to our engines that turn our generators but we vary the flow using flow meters that determine the amount of water going through the heat exchanger depending on temps. What I have to remember the principle is the same but the application is a little different. sort of like apples and oranges they both fruit but different.

we actually slow the flow through the radiators based on temps also. but we have huge header boxes or expansion tanks on them so we can do this also with our flow meters through the water blocks (heat exchangers) we have by passes and huge expansion tanks here also.

again thank you for the suggestions like I said I am sure it is from your personal experience with these systems in a PC.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Thanks for this Darlene you have given me something to think about as I know this is all from your personal experience.
> 
> I think where I keep thinking about varying the flow is because we do that to our engines that turn our generators but we vary the flow using flow meters that determine the amount of water going through the heat exchanger depending on temps. What I have to remember the principle is the same but the application is a little different. sort of like apples and oranges they both fruit but different.
> 
> we actually slow the flow through the radiators based on temps also. but we have huge header boxes or expansion tanks on them so we can do this also with our flow meters through the water blocks (heat exchangers) we have by passes and huge expansion tanks here also.
> 
> again thank you for the suggestions like I said I am sure it is from your personal experience with these systems in a PC.


haha uh I think her post was directed toward me buddy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Running the pumps in a variable speed mode based on either CPU temp or a air/water delta just isn't the solution it seems it might be at first glance.
> 
> Pump speed should really be considered as "set it & forget it".
> 
> At speeds below the point where you have turbulent flow, the temps will run unnecessarily high, and as you reach the point where flow becomes turbulent, the temps come down fairly rapidly, but the speed range for just before turbulent to just after, is fairly small.
> 
> Additionally, there's little advantage of running at speeds greater than needed for turbulent flow, you're up against diminishing returns with the sound level going up big time.
> 
> With today's pumps, and especially with so many dual pump setups, it so easy to maintain turbulent flow producing flow rates at lower rpms, that changing pump speeds to mediate the sound level isn't usually a sufficient part of the equation any more.
> 
> Further more, Changing pump speeds to where you can go below turbulent flow, then has the interactive effect of raising temps and triggering fan speed increases, and you may end up with more devices speeding up / slowing down due to temp interrelationships creating very disturbing noise patters.
> 
> To use both pump and fan control, I think it was Wisk who had the best plan, where the pumps were managed within a relatively small speed range at the beginning of the overall control scheme, and then the fans took over once the pump was at 40% or so.
> 
> With 2 different pumps, I'd look at setting both to an acceptable sound level, and letting the fans control the delta t.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene, I think this new insight you've given me will make my A6 setup not as complicated as I originally thought.

What I'll probably do, is leave my D5 to setting "3", and have the MCP350 tied with the fans, so once the 350 hits over 40% or so, fans will kick up a notch. All very impressive stuff this A6 will be able to do. Looking forward to getting one.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> haha uh I think her post was directed toward me buddy.


Maybe so but I learned and got some insight from her post is the reason why I replied to it...


----------



## MeanBruce

...


----------



## MeanBruce

this


----------



## heyskip

Does anyone know if the Aquareo can get software RPM values from the motherboard headers. It seems from the instruction that software temps sensors are the only possibility.

I want to connect both of my pump tacho wires to motherboard headers and monitor the RPM with the Aquaero rather than waste fan channels.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heyskip*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Aquareo can get software RPM values from the motherboard headers. It seems from the instruction that software temps sensors are the only possibility.
> 
> I want to connect both of my pump tacho wires to motherboard headers and monitor the RPM with the Aquaero rather than waste fan channels.


I dont know if you can use software flow but I do know that you can put 1 flow sensor on the AQ6 and then if you want more with out using the fan channel you can add either a PA or you can get the flow sensors that will connect to the AQ through the Aquabus the USB High Flow Sense is one. like this *one*


----------



## sekikg

I bought 16 Phobya and do not want to have to buy 16 new ones!!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sekikg*
> 
> I bought 16 Phobya and do not want to have to buy 16 new ones!!!!


Temp sensors?? If so they will work on the Aquaero


----------



## heyskip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I dont know if you can use software flow but I do know that you can put 1 flow sensor on the AQ6 and then if you want more with out using the fan channel you can add either a PA or you can get the flow sensors that will connect to the AQ through the Aquabus the USB High Flow Sense is one. like this *one*


Cheers for the quick reply but I'm not after flow, I have a flow meter for that. I'm after the pump rpm.

Shoggy can you pull the fan rpm data from Open Hardware Monitor or just temp readings? If not can this be implemented? I would like to connect 2 pump tach signals to motherboard headers and rename them in the Aquaero as PUMP1 and PUMP2.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heyskip*
> 
> Cheers for the quick reply but I'm not after flow, I have a flow meter for that. I'm after the pump rpm.
> 
> Shoggy can you pull the fan rpm data from Open Hardware Monitor or just temp readings? If not can this be implemented? I would like to connect 2 pump tach signals to motherboard headers and rename them in the Aquaero as PUMP1 and PUMP2.


that would be nice if you could do that this is for sure. if not you can use the PA's for this... why Do you want the RPM instead of the flow??? Sorry for asking but curious??


----------



## heyskip

I like to monitor both flow and rpm because I try and match the 2 pumps rpm and they don't spin at the same speed when set at the same voltage. Also one of my pump tends to stall when set at a low voltage (24v D5 pumps).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heyskip*
> 
> I like to monitor both flow and rpm because I try and match the 2 pumps rpm and they don't spin at the same speed when set at the same voltage. Also one of my pump tends to stall when set at a low voltage (24v D5 pumps).


I understand now and it works for me!!! Thanks for that!!


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heyskip*
> 
> I like to monitor both flow and rpm because I try and match the 2 pumps rpm and they don't spin at the same speed when set at the same voltage. Also one of my pump tends to stall when set at a low voltage (24v D5 pumps).


I would think if the pumps are different, and you have them spinning at the same RPMs, flow might still be slightly different because of the impeller size, ie one pump's impeller rotation moves a certain amount of liquid while the other pump's impeller is slightly smaller so one rotation wouldn't move as much.

I would think it'd be based on flow rates and flow rates alone. Have a flow sensor right after each pump, and find out what it takes to equalize the flow, and then set them there.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *heyskip*
> 
> I like to monitor both flow and rpm because I try and match the 2 pumps rpm and they don't spin at the same speed when set at the same voltage. Also one of my pump tends to stall when set at a low voltage (24v D5 pumps).
> 
> 
> 
> I would think if the pumps are different, and you have them spinning at the same RPMs, flow might still be slightly different because of the impeller size, ie one pump's impeller rotation moves a certain amount of liquid while the other pump's impeller is slightly smaller so one rotation wouldn't move as much.
> 
> I would think it'd be based on flow rates and flow rates alone. *Have a flow sensor right after each pump, and find out what it takes to equalize the flow,* and then set them there.
Click to expand...

It doesn't work that way . . . .

It's a loop, the flow in any one place is going to be the same as the flow at any other place.

Water being uncompressible, makes this especially true.

It's the same as current being the same anywhere in a series electrical circuit.

Darlene


----------



## ozzy1925

sorry for the noob question but i am thinking of buying aquaero 6 xt and i want my fans and pump works at lower speed if my cpu @ idle and faster @ load .As i see thats possible with this controller .But i wonder what do i need extra if i want to control 18 fans ,1 d5 pump+ a flow sensor( "high flow" aquaero brand) .
4x Y cable for the fans
1xConnection cable for flow sensor
2x fittings for the flow sensor
1xTemperature sensor inline G1/4 for aquaero
are these enough and do i need extra cable for the pump speed control?
Also should i also buy aquaero 5 LT USB fan controller if yes whats the advantage of it?Thanks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry for the noob question but i am thinking of buying aquaero 6 xt and i want my fans and pump works at lower speed if my cpu @ idle and faster @ load .As i see thats possible with this controller .But i wonder what do i need extra if i want to control 18 fans ,1 d5 pump+ a flow sensor( "high flow" aquaero brand) .
> 4x Y cable for the fans
> 1xConnection cable for flow sensor
> 2x fittings for the flow sensor
> 1xTemperature sensor inline G1/4 for aquaero
> are these enough and do i need extra cable for the pump speed control?
> Also should i also buy aquaero 5 LT USB fan controller if yes whats the advantage of it?Thanks


Looks like you have everything listed you need and more.. Cables except for the flow you can make yourself.. I see no reason for you to get the LT..

what fan's are you going to use and how are you going to group them???


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Looks like you have everything listed you need and more.. Cables except for the flow you can make yourself.. I see no reason for you to get the LT..
> 
> what fan's are you going to use and how are you going to group them???


thanks for the quick reply .I will be using noise blocker B12-P series in my corsair 900d and i am still thinking how am i going to group them and install to the fan controller(8x for the top radiator,4x for the buttom radiator,3x front 1x exhaust,2xrear)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply .I will be using noise blocker B12-P series in my corsair 900d and i am still thinking how am i going to group them and install to the fan controller(8x for the top radiator,4x for the buttom radiator,3x front 1x exhaust,2xrear)


well then no problem

AQ6 4 fan or pump headers

pump on one header
8 fans for top radiator on 2nd header
4 fans for the bottom rad on 3rd header
the rest of the fans on the 4th header

tjhat way you can control the fans on your rads based on water temp and you can set the other fans to what ever speed you need them on noise and air flow..

just curious if you are water cooling why have 5 additional case fans???


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> well then no problem
> 
> AQ6 4 fan or pump headers
> 
> pump on one header
> 8 fans for top radiator on 2nd header
> 4 fans for the bottom rad on 3rd header
> the rest of the fans on the 4th header
> 
> tjhat way you can control the fans on your rads based on water temp and you can set the other fans to what ever speed you need them on noise and air flow..
> 
> just curious if you are water cooling why have 5 additional case fans???


+rep i thought these additional fans help for the case inside temperatures off topic:should i buy a 1x8 y cable for 8 fans?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> +rep i thought these additional fans help for the case inside temperatures off topic:should i buy a 1x8 y cable for 8 fans?


You can buy one or make your own. No matter what remember that you only need RPM signal from one fan. So if you buy make sure they are made like this.. I know the phobya ones are made like this. if you give the AQ or anything that is suppose to read the RPM signal 8 different ones like you will get it will be very confused...


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You can buy one or make your own. No matter what remember that you only need RPM signal from one fan. So if you buy make sure they are made like this.. I know the phobya ones are made like this. if you give the AQ or anything that is suppose to read the RPM signal 8 different ones like you will get it will be very confused...


Will this work with the aq6?
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-60cm-Y-Cable-3-Pin-to-9-x-3-Pin-Fan-Cable--White--UV-Blue-pid-11834.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Will this work with the aq6?
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-60cm-Y-Cable-3-Pin-to-9-x-3-Pin-Fan-Cable--White--UV-Blue-pid-11834.html


yes it will all this is doing is carrying the power and RPM signal and they only have 1 with the RPM signal Hooked up!!!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shipping is not very high from Aquatuning and delivery is usual as fast or faster than other places...


I might have to just bite the bullet and order directly. Was hoping to use to use one of the "Black Friday" codes though.









I do have a couple questions though:

I'm looking to control 6 fans on one radiator (channel 1), 4 fans on another radiator (channel 2), 3 case fans (channel 3), 2 Swiftech D5 Vario pumps.

I don't need the IR remote or touchscreen (unless someone can tell me, other than "bling", a really good reason to have it), so will the Aquaero 6 Pro + Flow sensor "high flow G1/4" be all that I need?

I also have 2 Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler - 2-Pin. Will this work with the Aquaero or do I need to get their inline temperature sensors?

Lastly, what does the Aquaerao 6 give me over the Aquaero 5? I can get the 5 XT with touchscreen and remote for the same price as the base 6 model. I can't see any major differences for what I'm planning on doing.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Shipping is not very high from Aquatuning and delivery is usual as fast or faster than other places...
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to just bite the bullet and order directly. Was hoping to use to use one of the "Black Friday" codes though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a couple questions though:
> 
> I'm looking to control 6 fans on one radiator (channel 1), 4 fans on another radiator (channel 2), 3 case fans (channel 3), 2 Swiftech D5 Vario pumps.
> 
> I don't need the IR remote or touchscreen (unless someone can tell me, other than "bling", a really good reason to have it), so will the Aquaero 6 Pro + Flow sensor "high flow G1/4" be all that I need?
> 
> I also have 2 Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler - 2-Pin. Will this work with the Aquaero or do I need to get their inline temperature sensors?
> 
> Lastly, what does the Aquaerao 6 give me over the Aquaero 5? I can get the 5 XT with touchscreen and remote for the same price as the base 6 model. I can't see any major differences for what I'm planning on doing.
Click to expand...

The major plusses of the AQ6 over the 5 are:

1) PWM on all 4 channels

2) 2.5A per channel on air cooling with all channels at load . . . Output is 3A per channel with the water block when it comes out.

The AQ5 was 1.65A per channel, and needed the water block to run all the chans near max load.

The new AQ6 won't run two regular D5's on a single channel, you'd have to have either the PWM D5's to run 2 on a channel, (power from a molex) or use 2 channels.

If you need to expand the channels, you can add a 5LT as a slave to pick up channels for the lighter load fan groups, and have the D5's on the AQ6.

You configure the 5LT as a slave in the Aquasuite software.

The software is what really makes this thing so worth the cost.

You can create a virtual temp sensor which is the temp difference between an air temp sensor and a water temp sensor, that lets you control fan speed based on the air/water delta. . . . among other nice things.

The XT over the pro has touch sensors instead of physical buttons on the side, and has an additional 4 programmable buttons along the bottom.

Folks ay the Phobya sensors work OK too.

Darlene


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The major plusses of the AQ6 over the 5 are:
> 
> 1) PWM on all 4 channels
> 
> 2) 2.5A per channel on air cooling with all channels at load . . . Output is 3A per channel with the water block when it comes out.
> 
> The AQ5 was 1.65A per channel, and needed the water block to run all the chans near max load.
> 
> The new AQ6 won't run two regular D5's on a single channel, you'd have to have either the PWM D5's to run 2 on a channel, (power from a molex) or use 2 channels.
> 
> If you need to expand the channels, you can add a 5LT as a slave to pick up channels for the lighter load fan groups, and have the D5's on the AQ6.
> 
> You configure the 5LT as a slave in the Aquasuite software.
> 
> The software is what really makes this thing so worth the cost.
> 
> You can create a virtual temp sensor which is the temp difference between an air temp sensor and a water temp sensor, that lets you control fan speed based on the air/water delta. . . . among other nice things.
> 
> The XT over the pro has touch sensors instead of physical buttons on the side, and has an additional 4 programmable buttons along the bottom.
> 
> Folks ay the Phobya sensors work OK too.
> 
> Darlene


Many thanks for the info. +Rep

Still debating on getting the AQ6 or an AQ5XT or even just an AQ5 and the AQ5LT for more channels.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, I guess I will just bite the bullet and go large.

I ordered an Aquaero 6 XT (touchscreen, remote, etc), a 3-pin and 2 2-pin connectors, and the "High Flow" G1/4" sensor from Germany. Hopefully it will be here in 2 weeks.

It's only money.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, I guess I will just bite the bullet and go large.
> 
> I ordered an Aquaero 6 XT (touchscreen, remote, etc), a 3-pin and 2 2-pin connectors, and the "High Flow" G1/4" sensor from Germany. Hopefully it will be here in 2 weeks.
> 
> It's only money.


Nothing wrong with spending money for top of the line gear so long as it makes you happy. There's far too many people that prefer to go cheap and are never satisfied.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Nothing wrong with spending money for top of the line gear so long as it makes you happy. There's far too many people that prefer to go cheap and are never satisfied.


& often spend more money on endless sidegrade/upgrading.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Nothing wrong with spending money for top of the line gear so long as it makes you happy. There's far too many people that prefer to go cheap and are never satisfied.


I agree 100% with this... funny thing is you see people buy the extreme CPU for over 2X price of the 3930 or 4930 and then they tell you that they dont see spending what it takes to get a CL Case or even funnier to me speed 300 dollars more for corsair memory than get the same of better GSkill and tell me I am wasting money with all my HDD... I think you should get the parts you want and unless someone ask dont tell them they could get something better or cheaper....


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Nothing wrong with spending money for top of the line gear so long as it makes you happy. There's far too many people that prefer to go cheap and are never satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree 100% with this... funny thing is you see people buy the extreme CPU for over 2X price of the 3930 or 4930 and then they tell you that they dont see spending what it takes to get a CL Case or even funnier to me speed 300 dollars more for corsair memory than get the same of better GSkill and tell me I am wasting money with all my HDD... I think you should get the parts you want and unless someone ask dont tell them they could get something better or cheaper....
Click to expand...

What aggravates me to no end is people will refuse, and even balk at a case that costs 200 bucks, but they'll spend 1200 bucks on a GPU (or two) that they'll get rid of in two years. If you spend money on a case that meets your needs and lasts for the next 5-10 years, then what's a few hundred bucks? And I'm not just talking about our cases.

Anyway, I believe the AQ6 is a great upgrade from the 5 model, and worth the money. I'll be firing mine up in the next two weeks once I get these panels cut and painted and when my CPE's are done at school. I can't wait to get this going.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> What aggravates me to no end is people will refuse, and even balk at a case that costs 200 bucks, but they'll spend 1200 bucks on a GPU (or two) that they'll get rid of in two years. If you spend money on a case that meets your needs and lasts for the next 5-10 years, then what's a few hundred bucks? And I'm not just talking about our cases.
> 
> Anyway, I believe the AQ6 is a great upgrade from the 5 model, and worth the money. I'll be firing mine up in the next two weeks once I get these panels cut and painted and when my CPE's are done at school. I can't wait to get this going.


Yeah, I go back and forth like that, but very often, once I pull the trigger, I don't regret buying what I buy, and when I do buy, it USUALLY is to last for 3+ years.

Agreed. If I had been "rational" about it, I should have gotten the CL M8 like I was thinking instead of the Aquaero + Phanteks Enthoo. Oh well, I'll still get the M8 case eventually. I'll most likely use that case (or a similar one) when Skylake and Maxwell comes out for a new build.









Speaking of $500 cases, I really should put my old ABS Canyon 965 case up on the marketplace. That was a great case for air cooled, lasted me a good long time.


----------



## X-Nine

Nothing wrong with the Enthoo, man. I happen to think it's one of the nicest production cases ever made.


----------



## VSG

So anyone here tried using a temperature sensor on the underside of some Koolance blocks like the 380i? I figure that would give a good reference temperature to compare the loop average temperature. Or is it just not worth the potential hassle of reduced contact with the CPU and better to just use the software reading for CPU temperature?


----------



## skupples

I heavily regret going the cheep route with 900D. I should of gone Case labs double wide beast mode. It's the only purchase I regret with this upcoming rebuild. I'll be switching over to a case labs double wide monster case next year.


----------



## VSG

Wait for the upcoming Gemini line. I am content with the 900D for my current build, but I will probably go over to CaseLabs the next time I upgrade big (Skylake probably).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So anyone here tried using a temperature sensor on the underside of some Koolance blocks like the 380i? I figure that would give a good reference temperature to compare the loop average temperature. Or is it just not worth the potential hassle of reduced contact with the CPU and better to just use the software reading for CPU temperature?


you don't want to do this because of the reason you gave..


----------



## VSG

I thought so too but Koolance, in their install guide for the block, show where one can put in a sensor without touching the CPU. But ya- I am not going to be the guinea pig for this.


----------



## hanzy

Guys,

I am going to be ordering an AQ6 in the coming weeks.

What will I need to purchase to completely regulate my fans and two pumps?

My fans are all 3 wire voltage control, and my pumps are pwm control and get power via molex.

I have 17 fans and two pumps.

What temp sensors, flow meters, and fan splitters are the best/compatible with the AQ6?

Thank you.

*Also on the Phanteks Enthoo--man that is a nice case. I am seriously considering swapping out my 900D for it. And I just put this one together a few weeks ago.


----------



## seross69

Looks like PPC has the AQ6 in stock and sale for Cyber Monday!!!!


----------



## VSG

Only the pro and not xt, it seems.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Only the pro and not xt, it seems.


Yeah I guess so but hey that is better than nothing especially since I like the pro better. Don't want touch screen and can buy the remote for 20 dollars...


----------



## skupples

Saw PPC has the 5 on sale as well, 199$... If that's a deal or not for real i'm not sure.


----------



## kpoeticg

Has anybody clicked on the email? I'm getting product not found....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Has anybody clicked on the email? I'm getting product not found....


Me also not found. Maybe not until Monday!!


----------



## kpoeticg

Phew!!! Thought i missed first shipment already


----------



## skupples

6 minutes.

also, retraction on a5 comment. It WAS the a6.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 6 minutes.
> 
> also, retraction on a5 comment. It WAS the a6.


6 min?????


----------



## WaXmAn

"Sorry, the product was not found" when I click the link on PPC


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 6 min?????


oh, idk, it's now monday in florida. Figured some one (based in florida) would start pushing out some cyber monday by now.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oh, idk, it's now monday in florida. Figured some one (based in florida) would start pushing out some cyber monday by now.


did you fall and hit your head?? Are your drunk??

It is 1:19PM in Indonesia on Sunday. We are 13 hours ahead of you so HOW the H**L Is it Monday In Fla????


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> did you fall and hit your head?? Are your drunk??
> 
> It is 1:19PM in Indonesia on Sunday. We are 13 hours ahead of you so HOW the H**L Is it Monday In Fla????


oh my gersh, Iv'e done and did it again... I worked today, so my internal schedule is ALL messed up. Keep thinking tomorrow is Monday.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> oh my gersh, Iv'e done and did it again... I worked today, so my internal schedule is ALL messed up. Keep thinking tomorrow is Monday.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Must be midnight FMT ... Florida Monday Time.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Must be midnight FMT ... Florida Monday Time.


----------



## kpoeticg

I just ordered my Aquaero 6 Pro from PPC's









Get em while they're hot!!!


----------



## VSG

I have waited this long, I might as well wait for the XT.


----------



## kpoeticg

FrozenCPU's had the XT in stock for like a week

Edit: NVM, it's not in stock at FCPU. Sold Out


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have waited this long, I might as well wait for the XT.


Agreed, I didn't wait this long to settle for the Pro sku, I want the full AquaComputer Aquaero 6 XT experience with fancy full-functioning fascia (that's hard to say) and IR remote control, like a day at the Spa with a happy ending.


----------



## kpoeticg

I definitely don't consider the Pro as settling. Most people never use the buttons on the unit itself. Also, i have a remote for my Pro


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

One left in stock, go get it!

Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control - $221.11


----------



## MeanBruce

XT still looks much more advanced and it's my first AquaComputer product so it's worth the extra $ to make it really nice.









I plan on keeping it long into my CaseLabs Gemini, Rampage V Extreme Haswell E 6-Core DDR4 SATA Express build so no cutting corners.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think you mean 8-Core


----------



## MeanBruce

Don't believe the 8-Core Haswell-E will benefit my lightly threaded work, those two extra cores would most likely go to waste, the lower cost 6-core should be fine, as long as I buy a pre-binned. After living with a super efficient CPU I won't play the lottery again, I just got lucky this time with this new 3770K. But it changes everything in your computing experience lower heat noise, everyday overclock of 4.8 or 4.9 with an AIO, no matter what CPU you choose the 96th percentile is where we should all be computing, I have to find someone, a reputable binner, I know of one here on ocn will ask him if he's binning the Haswell-E's next year.


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty sure the 3930k/4930k SKU is gonna be 8-Core and the 6-Core would be comparable to the 4820k. I could be wrong


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just ordered my Aquaero 6 Pro from PPC's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get em while they're hot!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have waited this long, I might as well wait for the XT.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, I didn't wait this long to settle for the Pro sku, I want the full AquaComputer Aquaero 6 XT experience with fancy full-functioning fascia (that's hard to say) and IR remote control, like a day at the Spa with a happy ending.
Click to expand...

I've been ever so impatiently waiting for the XT to be in stock at FCPU, seems it's been OoS since it was first in the new products pages.

Tempted as I am to just pull the trigger on the Pro at PPC's, at least then I'd have something . . . .

I'm going to hold out like you guys and wait on the XT.

I know that the day I ordered the Pro, the XT would show up in stock within a day . . . 2 at the most









At least I have plenty to work on in the mean time.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Pretty much, besides what will I do with my replacement black faceplate for the XT model now?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

That one is still in stock on the page I linked to. I just ordered stuff from there to the US, shipping wasn't bad, $9.99 via UPS.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty much, besides what will I do with my replacement black faceplate for the XT model now?


Have you used it? Any scratches? How much?


----------



## VSG

lol it is brand new, and will go on my Aquaero XT when I get it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> That one is still in stock on the page I linked to. I just ordered stuff from there to the US, shipping wasn't bad, $9.99 via UPS.


I would have done that longgggg ago if they shipped here to the Virgin Islands









Now I just have to keep waiting . . . .

Darlene


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would have done that longgggg ago if they shipped here to the Virgin Islands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just have to keep waiting . . . .
> 
> Darlene


You are doing IT in the Virgin Islands and make enough to make baller builds like you do?

OMG, do you need an assistant? Sure I have 25 years experience, but I'd be happy to scrub toilets in VI for 85% of my current salary.


----------



## IT Diva

I'm actually in the upper management ranks at this point, that's what makes the difference, lol.

Strangely, I came down here 13 years ago to be a dive bum, but the bum part didn't work out too well for me, as I go nuts if I don't work, and bums have no money.

Darlene


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would have done that longgggg ago if they shipped here to the Virgin Islands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just have to keep waiting . . . .
> 
> Darlene


you can buy it direct from Aqua computer DHL have mine its about to leave Germany( Aquareo 6) pay via pay pal


----------



## kennyngston

I was wondering, can the Aquaero 6 run 2 pumps ( aquacomputer D5 with aquabus), 2x8 fans (corsair sp120 quiet), 2 water temp sensors, 2 flow sensors, and 3 air temp sensors - or do i need some extensions at some point?


----------



## SinatraFan

Wahoo... just put in my order for a 6 XT. Should have it in a few days as the place I ordered it from has stock!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyngston*
> 
> I was wondering, can the Aquaero 6 run 2 pumps ( aquacomputer D5 with aquabus), 2x8 fans (corsair sp120 quiet), 2 water temp sensors, 2 flow sensors, and 3 air temp sensors - or do i need some extensions at some point?


yes it can use up to 4 MIPS devices and the D-5 With Aquabus is one!!!!

it only has input for 1 flow switch unless you get the flow switch with the Aquabus then these are MIPS devices and you could put 1 of them on the aquabus and 1 to the flow header. that way you save a few dollars.

it can read 8 temps sensors plus the D-5 with Aquabus can read 1 each so you would have a total of 10 temp sensors plus the one that would be on the Aquabus actually would give you 11

*this* is the flow sensor with out the Aquabus... this is the one you hook to the flow header on the Aquaero 6
*this* is the flow sensor with the Aquabus this is the one you use the aquabus to hook up.

you can get this splitter and hook all the fans to one fan header if you want to control them all at one time or you can split them however you want.

using *these*..

or *this*

or *this*


----------



## kennyngston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes it can use up to 4 MIPS devices and the D-5 With Aquabus is one!!!!
> 
> it only has input for 1 flow switch unless you get the flow switch with the Aquabus then these are MIPS devices and you could put 1 of them on the aquabus and 1 to the flow header. that way you save a few dollars.
> 
> it can read 8 temps sensors plus the D-5 with Aquabus can read 1 each so you would have a total of 10 temp sensors plus the one that would be on the Aquabus actually would give you 11
> 
> *this* is the flow sensor with out the Aquabus... this is the one you hook to the flow header on the Aquaero 6
> *this* is the flow sensor with the Aquabus this is the one you use the aquabus to hook up.
> 
> you can get this splitter and hook all the fans to one fan header if you want to control them all at one time or you can split them however you want.
> 
> using *these*..
> 
> or *this*
> 
> or *this*


Many thanks!

Just one question though: if the aquabus can support 4 devices, and there is only one connector (high speed aquabus) that supports pumps, than how can I extend it (via HUB or something)?

Edit: I plan to control my fans with PWM, hence will need a 4 pin distributor, could you recommend any?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> *this* is the flow sensor with out the Aquabus... this is the one you hook to the flow header on the Aquaero 6
> *this* is the flow sensor with the Aquabus this is the one you use the aquabus to hook up.


I think I may have messed up. I ordered the first one (the cheaper one). I didn't know about the other one.

I also ordered the Aquaero 6 XT with it. Should I go back and see if I can change my order? Are there any features I will be missing if I can't?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennyngston*
> 
> Many thanks!
> 
> Just one question though: if the aquabus can support 4 devices, and there is only one connector (high speed aquabus) that supports pumps, than how can I extend it (via HUB or something)?
> 
> Edit: I plan to control my fans with PWM, hence will need a 4 pin distributor, could you recommend any?


well with the Aquabus you can daisy chain them or use splitters like *this* but any 4 pin splitter will work..

and *this* is the PMW splitter I would recommend but any like this will work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I think I may have messed up. I ordered the first one (the cheaper one). I didn't know about the other one.
> 
> I also ordered the Aquaero 6 XT with it. Should I go back and see if I can change my order? Are there any features I will be missing if I can't?


The only differance in these is one is a MIPS device and uses the aquabus to connect to the AQ6 XT and you can hook a Temp sensor to it. IF you ordered 2 of these you can just have 2 more MIPS devices on the AQ6 XT and with the D5 USB pumps this is the 2 more. so you will be ok then..


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> yes it can use up to 4 MIPS devices and the D-5 With Aquabus is one!!!!
> 
> it only has input for 1 flow switch unless you get the flow switch with the Aquabus then these are MIPS devices and you could put 1 of them on the aquabus and 1 to the flow header. that way you save a few dollars.
> 
> it can read 8 temps sensors plus the D-5 with Aquabus can read 1 each so you would have a total of 10 temp sensors plus the one that would be on the Aquabus actually would give you 11
> 
> 
> 
> *this* is the flow sensor with out the Aquabus... this is the one you hook to the flow header on the Aquaero 6
> *this* is the flow sensor with the Aquabus this is the one you use the aquabus to hook up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> you can get this splitter and hook all the fans to one fan header if you want to control them all at one time or you can split them however you want.
> 
> using *these*..
> 
> or *this*
> 
> or *this*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I think I may have messed up. I ordered the first one (the cheaper one). I didn't know about the other one.
> 
> I also ordered the Aquaero 6 XT with it. Should I go back and see if I can change my order? Are there any features I will be missing if I can't?


He actually switched those by accident. The cheaper one is the aquabus, the 2nd one he listed has USB. The one with USB doesn't need an Aquaero to function, that's why it's more expensive. But if you're gonna be running it off an Aquaero, then u don't need USB


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> He actually switched those by accident. The cheaper one is the aquabus, the 2nd one he listed has USB. The one with USB doesn't need an Aquaero to function, that's why it's more expensive. But if you're gonna be running it off an Aquaero, then u don't need USB


Actually it does not have a aquabus it just has 3 pin connection for the flow control but this is not Aquabus, the 2md one does have the aquabus along with USB.

With the first one without other accessories you can only hook 1 up to the AQ6 unless you are willing to sacrifice a fan header then you can hook up 2.

The USB or 2nd one is read as a MIPS device to the AQ and you can have 4 of these and as I stated before they hook up via the aquabus.

and I did have them right on the links....


----------



## kpoeticg

I guess i just misinterpret everything i've ever seen shoggy say. You're def right, the cheaper one doesn't have Aquabus header







Everytime i think i'm tryin help somebody out in this thread i'm usually wrong.....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I guess i just misinterpret everything i've ever seen shoggy say. You're def right, the cheaper one doesn't have Aquabus header
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everytime i think i'm tryin help somebody out in this thread i'm usually wrong.....


Do not worry young one as the force is strong in you!! You just need to double check and channel it correctly!! in time you will be a master like shoggy...


----------



## kpoeticg

Lollllll, well shoggy's very helpful with anything Aquaero related, and he'll probly always know more than any1 else on the topic. It doesn't bother me when i don't know stuff, just feel stupid when i think i know something and try to help some1 out with what i know, then turns out i was 100%...


----------



## seross69

we all do this so don't worry and don't let it stop you from helping.


----------



## NYMD

I ordered my 6 XT PRO from Performance for $199 thanks to this thread! It is my first "serious" controller so I'm stoked.

edit: thanks for the fix!


----------



## VSG

You mean the 6 Pro?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that's how much i just payed for my 6 Pro from PPCs, plus i don't think they carry the XT yet


----------



## skupples

meh, wish I would of seen that 6 in one the other day. Instead I went with a bundle of 4x1 & 2x mod my toy's 5x header, 3pin strip. Owellz, same effect, slightly more money.


----------



## kpoeticg

The harnesses aren't that difficult to make. The Splitter PCB's are real nice for keeping stuff organized tho


----------



## seross69

I agree with kpoeticg and any of the wiring you want to make is pretty easy to make and to be honest custom looks so much better as you can make the length exactly what you want.

Guys always remember you can hook more than 1 fan to the Aquaero but make sure it is only getting one RPM signal or it gets real confused.... if you have cut the RPM signal on the extender, but be sure and leave one connected. I am attaching a couple of pinouts so you know what I am talking about...








I hope these help's anyone that is not sure..


----------



## MeanBruce

On one hand my thinking is the arrival of this new 3770K superchip is a sign to just stay with an All in One cooler and run a higher everyday overclock of 4.8, 4.9 or even 5.0 for the winter and simply enjoy the "space heater effect", while keeping my work rig simple and minimalistic.

On the other hand this new golden 3770K could be a sign it's now finally time to dive into custom water since the new CPU only sips voltage implementing a nice low FPI 360x63mm thick radiator and the AquaComputer USB-Aquabus controlled infinitely variable D5 pump then dialing it way way down with the Aquaero 6 XT add some sweet Sorbothane or Neoprene energy absorbtion feet resting on the CaseLabs M8 chassis floor, allowing an everyday overclock of 5.2Ghz hopefully producing only an 8decibel to 10decibel signature above the sound floor, a silent enthusiasts dream. Seems like a lot of money for only 200Mhz, but then it could be argued the lower core temps should extend the life of the CPU, I don't want to lose this chip.

Sorry for the run-on (run away) paragraph.

I'm wide open to opinions from you brilliant gents.









Here's my parts list so far, cannot seem to find the XSPC RX360 in stock anywhere even the XSPC website says "sold out", I hope it's not discontinued:

AquaComputer D5 USB/Aquabus pump

AquaComputer Aquaero 6 XT System Controller (It's so much more than a fan controller)

AquaComputer 53068 flow meter

XSPC RX360 radiator

XSPC RayStorm Copper CPU block

XSPC Photon 170 tube res

XSPC or Bitspower black or black chrome fittings

Tygon A-60-G Norprene tubing

Pump top - I have no idea.

Envisioning a water build something like this, Industrial and Minimalistic

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...0px-LL-6d91224a_IMG_0460_zps7e10ff49.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

That build looks awesome Bruce. If you're going with all XSPC and Aquacomputer, I'd recommend going with one of their D5 tops just to keep with the theme.
XSPC stopped making the RX360 but some places still have it in stock. I don't think i've seen it anywhere in the US recently. If you browse some EU sites you'll probly find one. The AX360 i think is supposed to be sort of a replacement


----------



## MeanBruce

Should probably go for red or clear tubing but the flat gray industrial just works out it blends with my fans and chassis. Loving the concept anyway, not liking the XSPC AX360 at all too high FPI and the aluminum cosmetic shell that you can change with your mood? What? I just want a bare bones functioning bland awesome down to business radiator in flat black, not the sleeved skins XSPC is doing now.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the shroud's more than just looks. It keeps space between your fan and rad so the deadspot in the middle of your fan doesn't create one in the middle of the rad. Alot of people buy shrouds to do that, including myself. The AX360's a great rad. Aquacomputer AMS rads are incredible too if you wanna keep with the theme. It's not all black, but if you were planning on an RX360, an AMS 360 should fit.

Also, Norprene tubing is awesome. Never have to worry about plasticizer issues!!!!!
The XSPC EX360 is similar to the AX360 without the shroud. The AX360 has a bit more rad space tho


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well the shroud's more than just looks. It keeps space between your fan and rad so the deadspot in the middle of your fan doesn't create one in the middle of the rad. Alot of people buy shrouds to do that, including myself. The AX360's a great rad. Aquacomputer AMS rads are incredible too if you wanna keep with the theme. It's not all black, but if you were planning on an RX360, an AMS 360 should fit.
> 
> Also, Norprene tubing is awesome. Never have to worry about plasticizer issues!!!!!
> The XSPC EX360 is similar to the AX360 without the shroud. The AX360 has a bit more rad space tho


The AquaComputer copper is $221 and the XSPC is $135 at Aquatuning. I don't mind the extra $90 as long as the pure copper grants some thermal benefit, plus I have to replace the stainless steel panels with black another $60, yikes. But the AQ AMS 360 is gorgeous.

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p12386_Aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-360-mm--copper-fins--one-circuit--stainless-steel-side-panels.html

This may be the last RX360 in existence, only one left new:

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p5422_XSPC-RX360-Triple-Radiator.html


----------



## kpoeticg

You don't have to order from EU if you want the AX360 or AMS 360.
The AMS rads are more money but the build quality is supposed to be superior to pretty much any other rad. Also, AMS stands for Airplex Modularity System, meaning they're expandable. You can add your D5 & res to the rad itself. Also can stack AMS rads side by side connected to each other by buying side panels. Also they sell em as Single and Dual Circuit. Dual Circuit means if you were running 2 loops, you could kinda split the rad in half, half for one loop & half for the other

Edit: you can't add "your" res to the AMS 360. You can add a specific res to it


----------



## NYMD

>I have to replace the stainless steel panels with black another $60

Where do they sell those? Or you mean you'd paint them?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You don't have to order from EU if you want the AX360 or AMS 360.
> The AMS rads are more money but the build quality is supposed to be superior to pretty much any other rad. Also, AMS stands for Airplex Modularity System, meaning they're expandable. You can add your D5 & res to the rad itself. Also can stack AMS rads side by side connected to each other by buying side panels. Also they sell em as Single and Dual Circuit. Dual Circuit means if you were running 2 loops, you could kinda split the rad in half, half for one loop & half for the other
> 
> Edit: you can't add "your" res to the AMS 360. You can add a specific res to it


Is the XSPC new AX design the future of radiator tech? Why would they discontinue the famous RX360?

The XSPC AX360 is only $109 on Amazon, I'm considering ordering it NOW as my self-determination to go custom water.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> >I have to replace the stainless steel panels with black another $60
> 
> Where do they sell those? Or you mean you'd paint them?


AquaComputer sells the side panels in Black Red and Blue M8!









Let me find a photograph.

Yes the AquaComputer radiators with black panels and pure copper internals are a work of art, yet so expensive and I cannot find ANY reviews telling me it's worthy of the extra cost. MartinsLiquidLabs says it isn't.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> AquaComputer sells the side panels in Black Red and Blue M8!


Auuugghhh the total price of those rads with panels is annoying because they are so damn pretty... black/copper mmmmm.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Is the XSPC new AX design the future of radiator tech? Why would they discontinue the famous RX360?
> 
> The XSPC AX360 is only $109 on Amazon, I'm considering ordering it NOW as my self-determination to go custom water.


I wouldn't say the "future of radiator tech"
XSPC seems to going with split-fin designs tho. The EX series was supposed to be a combination of the RS & RX i think. And the AX is supposed to be a combination of RX & EX.
Split fins allow more airflow with higher fin densities. It's just one way to go about designing rads tho.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I wouldn't say the "future of radiator tech"
> XSPC seems to going with split-fin designs tho. The EX series was supposed to be a combination of the RS & RX i think. And the AX is supposed to be a combination of RX & EX.
> Split fins allow more airflow with higher fin densities. It's just one way to go about designing rads tho.


Plain and simple, I need a rad that's made for silent running low fins per inch FPI of around 8, thick thick thick used to be the idea, has everything changed suddenly?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Plain and simple, I need a rad that's made for silent running low fins per inch FPI of 8, thick thick thick used to be the idea, has everything changed suddenly?


I'm a noob so please someone else chime in, but I went with SR1s... they are thin, FPI of 9, and constantly on the top of the heap in ratings no matter the size.

$960 + EU shipping for the 3 AC rads that I'd want with black panels vs $420 for the SR1s. I just couldn't spend more than twice the amount simply for looks (yet).


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> I'm a noob so please someone else chime in, but I went with SR1s... they are thin, FPI of 9, and constantly on the top of the heap in ratings no matter the size.
> 
> $960 + EU shipping for the 3 AC rads that I'd want with black panels vs $420 for the SR1s. I just couldn't spend more than twice the amount simply for looks (yet).


Couldn't you get the AMS rads from FCPU and just the side panels from Aquatuning?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Auuugghhh the total price of those rads with panels is annoying because they are so damn pretty... black/copper mmmmm.


I'm struggling with the same severe level of clinical angst.









What's $250 more when it looks so pretty?

And why does AC determine themselves to adopt this stainless steel theme? It's almost as silly as the Noctua theme, is this a European thing?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> I'm a noob so please someone else chime in, but I went with SR1s... they are thin, FPI of 9, and constantly on the top of the heap in ratings no matter the size.
> 
> $960 + EU shipping for the 3 AC rads that I'd want with black panels vs $420 for the SR1s. I just couldn't spend more than twice the amount simply for looks (yet).


Yet, being the operative word, I love your thinking Doc. wink


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Couldn't you get the AMS rads from FCPU and just the side panels from Aquatuning?


Stop trying to make me spend more money























I'm tempted but I wonder what the delivery time on the panels might be.

FCPU with AC 480 coppers...
> 3 In Stock, Ships Today Till 6pm EST

SON OF A.... < unzips pants, finds wallet >


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Yet, being the operative word, I love your thinking Doc. wink


Curse you for showing me where to find the panels. The rads being stainless steel was one of the big reasons I didn't go for them first.

Also martin's test... but there was another test with a conflicting result showing the ACs doing very well.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Curse you for showing me where to find the panels. The rads being stainless steel was one of the big reasons I didn't go for them first.
> 
> Also martin's test... but there was another test with a conflicting result showing the ACs doing very well.


Here it is, http://www.overclock.net/t/1309645/bundymania-user-review-triple-radiator-360-roundup-with-22-rads
Also this test was done with the aluminum fins version.


----------



## MeanBruce

Why isn't there one conclusive review on the planet, allowing us restorative sleep acknowledging AquaComputer Pure Copper Rads perform much much better than normal soldered radiators?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Plain and simple, I need a rad that's made for silent running low fins per inch FPI of around 8, thick thick thick used to be the idea, has everything changed suddenly?


No everything hasn't changed =P
Alphacool NexXxos rads are great low FPI rads. BI SR1's are also great low FPI rads. XSPC just seems to be moving towards thinner rads with split fin designs. There's still plenty of other choices out there. I'm pretty sure BI GTX and GT Stealth rads are also split fin.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Why isn't there one conclusive review on the planet, allowing us restorative sleep acknowledging AquaComputer Pure Copper Rads perform much much better than normal soldered radiators?


Well I'm dropping the idea (again) anyway. I remembered why I dropped it in the first place... I have 57mm above the motherboard and the AC rads are 65mm thick. So I'd have to mount them in an extended top and that would hide all of the beauty.

Maybe I'll get one 240 for the front as an accent or something.

Now you guys carry on, someone buy the black and copper so I can see some pics!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Well I'm dropping the idea (again) anyway. I remembered why I dropped it in the first place... I have 57mm above the motherboard and the AC rads are 65mm thick. So I'd have to mount them in an extended top and that would hide all of the beauty.
> 
> Maybe I'll get one 240 for the front as an accent or something.
> 
> Now you guys carry on, someone buy the black and copper so I can see some pics!


I gotcha man, I'll look into the SR1s right now, dying to order a radiator to complete my commitment.

Thanks for stopping by.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Why isn't there one conclusive review on the planet, allowing us restorative sleep acknowledging AquaComputer Pure Copper Rads perform much much better than normal soldered radiators?


I would guess the copper will perform a little better at maybe 1-3 degrees overall. The AMS are really geared towards very low speed fans. They are high quality products and the fact that they are manufactured with NO solder inside them at all means not having to spend time flushing all of the flux out of them is important to me.

Ive got another thread for you, let me locate it.
Here it is, http://www.overclock.net/t/1037941/56k-warning-new-aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-radiators


----------



## NYMD

Here is a great post from martin himself about the slight differences in rad efficiency...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1037941/56k-warning-new-aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-system-radiators/190#post_18681968

So build it for looks and don't stress about the small diff in performance... I might just get a 240 copper now.... and then I can also see in person if it might fit in some other slots too.


----------



## MeanBruce

XSPC AX360 has an FPI of 16, that's crazy high.


----------



## kpoeticg

No its not









Black Ice GTX & Koolance rads have very high FPI. They're both around 30FPI. 16's medium

The XSPC EX rads are 19FPI (38 split-fin) and they work well at low speeds. The AX has 16fpi (32 split-fin), so i think it should be good across fan ranges

If you want low fpi, i highly recommend grabbing an Alphacool UT60. SR1's are also real popular low fpi rads. I like the UT60's for the extra features tho like the plate that blocks your screws from hitting the channels & the extra ports (6 useable ports + a 7th for exhaust fitting/drainport/fillport


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Stop trying to make me spend more money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tempted but I wonder what the delivery time on the panels might be.
> 
> FCPU with AC 480 coppers...
> > 3 In Stock, Ships Today Till 6pm EST
> 
> SON OF A.... < unzips pants, finds wallet >


I usually get Aquatuning Orders in 3 to 4 business days.. And believe it or not it usually ends up being cheaper that US retailer!!


----------



## kpoeticg

I got my last Aquatuning order in 3 days too.
They have cheaper prices, but the extra canadian tax kinda balances it out


----------



## MeanBruce

Oh My Great Goodness

Performance PCS is now selling CaseLabs chassis:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1226, I love Florida.









I once pulled a Cooler Master Stacker 830 SE out of PPC's dumpster when I was in college while home on break, since I didn't have a dime at the time, when they were in the old building.

Don't tell 'em.


----------



## kpoeticg

FCPU carries a ton of CL stuff now too


----------



## NYMD

I just realized the 240 copper with blue panels is IN STOCK at FCPU and would match my blue/copper build with the Asus X79 Pro perfectly.



Awesome compromise... I get at least one of the rads I wanted and it fits in a slot that won't require surgery.

Quote:


> I usually get Aquatuning Orders in 3 to 4 business days.. And believe it or not it usually ends up being cheaper that US retailer!!


Whoa that is crazy that it would be faster. I will do a comparison order, thanks!

edit: maybe I'm missing them but I don't think Aquatuning has the colored replacement panels.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> FCPU carries a ton of CL stuff now too


yea but PPCs is just over the Indian River Lagoon from me, 5minutes with no traffic, yay, I'll buy the CL Gemini from them next summer drive over for pick up woooooot.


----------



## MeanBruce

All you guys that receive regular monthly Aquatuning orders, I'm so jealous.

Geeez, I cannot keep up with you Joneses.









at least not yet hmmmmm

come on pretty love, tell me which radiator to purchase before I chicken out.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Oh My Great Goodness
> 
> Performance PCS is now selling CaseLabs chassis:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_1226, I love Florida.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I once pulled a Cooler Master Stacker 830 SE out of PPC's dumpster when I was in college while home on break, since I didn't have a dime at the time, when they were in the old building.
> 
> Don't tell 'em.


Actually I think they have been selling them for about 6 months.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> All you guys that receive regular monthly Aquatuning orders, I'm so jealous.
> 
> Geeez, I cannot keep up with you Joneses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least not yet hmmmmm
> 
> come on pretty love, tell me which radiator to purchase before I chicken out.


Not monthly weekly ordered from them.

Get the radiator you want that makes you happy..


----------



## MeanBruce

Just received an email from Newark Element 14 woohoo Sanyo-Denki SanAce 120mm silent S fans are ON SALE for the holidays, those fans are the sweetest God has to offer.

I'll need one more for the new rad.









Wish Shoggy was here.









edit: not much of a sale but still worth every penny.

http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15003&langId=-1&storeId=10194&gs=true&st=9s1212

..


----------



## NYMD

240 copper w/ blue panels, purchased







thanks for feeding my habit, guys


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> All you guys that receive regular monthly Aquatuning orders, I'm so jealous.
> 
> Geeez, I cannot keep up with you Joneses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least not yet hmmmmm
> 
> come on pretty love, tell me which radiator to purchase before I chicken out.


I think your right, I am not sure if they are just out of them or don't carry them anymore. I got the last set of 360 reds from FCPU.
Other than ordering from aquacomputer directly. *Side panels*


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> 240 copper w/ blue panels, purchased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for feeding my habit, guys


You deserve it bro, congratulations.









FLMD


----------



## IT Diva

Be forewarned about the size of the AMS rads . . .

It's the same core size, width and thickness, whether it's for a 120 sized fan or a 140 sized fan.

That means the thing is fully as wide as a 280/420, even though it's 240 or 360 long.

They just use different side panels with wider flanges for 120 sized fan lengths, as opposed to the narrow flanges for 140 sized fan lengths.

On the AC site, there's a few pics where they are showing off the serial connector to join rads end to end, and they've joined a 240 to a 140, so you can see comparatively the side rails difference.

They are second to none in fit and finish, but they are also very restrictive, owing to the small narrow water passages milled into the end caps to direct water flow. You'll need a good pump setup if you have more than a very simple loop.

Their cooling capacity is mediocre at best, but they have a unique look, and are Very well suited to near passive use with very low fan speeds.

Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be forewarned about the size of the AMS rads . . .
> 
> It's the same core size, width and thickness, whether it's for a 120 sized fan or a 140 sized fan.
> 
> That means the thing is fully as wide as a 280/420, even though it's 240 or 360 long.
> 
> They just use different side panels with wider flanges for 120 sized fan lengths, as opposed to the narrow flanges for 140 sized fan lengths.
> 
> On the AC site, there's a few pics where they are showing off the serial connector to join rads end to end, and they've joined a 240 to a 140, so you can see comparatively the side rails difference.
> 
> They are second to none in fit and finish, but they are also very restrictive, owing to the small narrow water passages milled into the end caps to direct water flow. You'll need a good pump setup if you have more than a very simple loop.
> 
> Their cooling capacity is mediocre at best, but they have a unique look, and are Very well suited to near passive use with very low fan speeds.
> 
> Darlene


Mediocre does not sound so nice. Why aren't there ANY reviews telling us how improved they are at idle and load?

Thank you Darlene









edit: wink wink

I just want to believe in AquaComputers and do not mind paying more for 3C or 4C but if its only aesthetic then I'll just buy XSPC.

...


----------



## NYMD

Yes, thanks Darlene. I'm happy then to have one restrictive museum piece and the rest SR1s.


----------



## MeanBruce

We all thank our hearts for Darlene's three amazing brains.









...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> We all thank our hearts for Darlene's three amazing brains.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


All 3 are very titillated to hear that . . . .









D


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Must not comment.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be forewarned about the size of the AMS rads . . .
> 
> It's the same core size, width and thickness, whether it's for a 120 sized fan or a 140 sized fan.
> 
> That means the thing is fully as wide as a 280/420, even though it's 240 or 360 long.
> 
> They just use different side panels with wider flanges for 120 sized fan lengths, as opposed to the narrow flanges for 140 sized fan lengths.
> 
> On the AC site, there's a few pics where they are showing off the serial connector to join rads end to end, and they've joined a 240 to a 140, so you can see comparatively the side rails difference.
> 
> They are second to none in fit and finish, but they are also very restrictive, owing to the small narrow water passages milled into the end caps to direct water flow. You'll need a good pump setup if you have more than a very simple loop.
> 
> Their cooling capacity is mediocre at best, but they have a unique look, and are Very well suited to near passive use with very low fan speeds.
> 
> Darlene


I was wondering when someone was gonna mention this....but I did not want to be the one to rain on this lovefest ...lol
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/

I gave these rads a serious look due to aesthetics, but then passed because of the sub par cooling capacity. These are good for 600 rpm fans, but flow restriction due to their design is the main drawback. I like sr-1 due to quality, and Alphacool are very good too all around. Xspc is fine, but don't like the build quality.

I have a plethora of aquaero related products, including the a couple of aquaero 5xts, but just couldn't be sold on their rads due to the sub par cooling performance....


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I was wondering when someone was gonna mention this....but I did not want to be the one to rain on this lovefest ...lol
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/
> 
> I gave these rads a serious look due to aesthetics, but then passed because of the sub par cooling capacity. These are good for 600 rpm fans, but flow restriction due to their design is the main drawback. I like sr-1 due to quality, and Alphacool are very good too all around. Xspc is fine, but don't like the build quality.
> 
> I have a plethora of aquaero related products, including the a couple of aquaero 5xts, but just couldn't be sold on their rads due to the sub par cooling performance....


That's what I thought, not worth the extra 2.5XDollars. It's kinda sad since they are so beautiful, still it's very sad.

I have to find a low FPI, not certain what happened to XSPC split fin? Is everyone convinced this is the new pathway?

Help me Darlene, I'm very cute!


----------



## kpoeticg

The reason i originally brought up the AMS rads is cuz he has all XSPC and Aquacomputer components in his build. Plus i've heard alot of great things about em related to how solidly built they are.

Bruce, i've said a few times already. Split-fins isn't a new pathway. It's not very new. It's just the only 2 rads that XSPC make right now are the AX & EX. Both of those are split-fin.

Alphacool NexXxos rads are considered the top low-fpi rads by alot of people right now. If i had to guess why XSPC stopped making the RX and produced the AX instead, it's probly cuz the UT60 is very similar but outperforms it and has an all copper design with more features.

Alot of people probly started going with UT60's instead of RX's


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The reason i originally brought up the AMS rads is cuz he has all XSPC and Aquacomputer components in his build. Plus i've heard alot of great things about em related to how solidly built they are.
> 
> Bruce, i've said a few times already. Split-fins isn't a new pathway. It's not very new. It's just the only 2 rads that XSPC make right now are the AX & EX. Both of those are split-fin.
> 
> Alphacool NexXxos rads are considered the top low-fpi rads by alot of people right now. If i had to guess why XSPC stopped making the RX and produced the AX instead, it's probly cuz the UT60 is very similar but outperforms it and has an all copper design with more features.
> 
> Alot of people probly started going with UT60's instead of RX's


Sounds like I should just buy that last RX360 before someone takes it, and work the rest out in a few months when XSPC finds themselves.

Thanks man.









edit: I don't mind spending $250 on an all copper rad if it offers much more and I can keep it for 8years good, but I don't want to just admire it, I really need improved performance and Shoggy isn't here to tell us what's going on with his radiators.









...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> I was wondering when someone was gonna mention this....but I did not want to be the one to rain on this lovefest ...lol
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/12/aquacomputer-airplex-modularity-ams-copper-360-radiator/
> 
> I gave these rads a serious look due to aesthetics, but then passed because of the sub par cooling capacity. These are good for 600 rpm fans, but flow restriction due to their design is the main drawback. I like sr-1 due to quality, and Alphacool are very good too all around. Xspc is fine, but don't like the build quality.
> 
> I have a plethora of aquaero related products, including the a couple of aquaero 5xts, but just couldn't be sold on their rads due to the sub par cooling performance....
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I thought, not worth the extra 2.5XDollars. It's kinda sad since they are so beautiful, still it's very sad.
> 
> I have to find a low FPI, not certain what happened to XSPC split fin? Is everyone convinced this is the new pathway?
> 
> Help me Darlene, I'm very cute!
Click to expand...

If you have the space to just upsize them an increment over what you may have planned to use, then the sub par performance is accounted for.

Just use MOAR of them.

They really are nicely done, and if they fit your build theme, no reason they aren't worth the price premium.

I have 4 of the copper finned 420's connected as 2 X 840's, and 2 of the copper 240's as a 480 in the Stretch build because I liked the look of the stainless steel and copper in a white case with white lighting.

JamesWalt is using the aluminum finned ones in his Robocop build because the look fits his theme.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

The AX has gotten real good reviews that i've seen. I wouldn't discount it because of the split-fins. But you should be real happy with the RX too. You'll probly be real happy with an AMS or UT60 or Monsta or SR1 too









Alot of the top performing rads have small enough differences between them that its best to just go with what suits your build.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have the space to just upsize them an increment over what you may have planned to use, then the sub par performance is accounted for.
> 
> Just use MOAR of them.
> 
> They really are nicely done, and if they fit your build theme, no reason they aren't worth the price premium.
> 
> I have 4 of the copper finned 420's connected as 2 X 840's, and 2 of the copper 240's as a 480 in the Stretch build because I liked the look of the stainless steel and copper in a white case with white lighting.
> 
> JamesWalt is using the aluminum finned ones in his Robocop build because the look fits his theme.
> 
> Darlene


Here is a link to Darlene's breakdown of one of her giant AMS rads for the lazy. What an insane build. Everything is bigger in the islands.


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanks man.

we need some music:


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AX has gotten real good reviews that i've seen. I wouldn't discount it because of the split-fins. But you should be real happy with the RX too. You'll probly be real happy with an AMS or UT60 or Monsta or SR1 too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alot of the top performing rads have small enough differences between them that its best to just go with what suits your build.


I understand the move to the AX, I just cannot fathom why XSPC would discontinue their best selling like hotcakes RX360.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i was surprised too. That's why i assumed maybe the UT60 was just killing the RX's sales to the point of them losing interest. That's just speculation tho....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Sounds like I should just buy that last RX360 before someone takes it, and work the rest out in a few months when XSPC finds themselves.
> 
> Thanks man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: I don't mind spending $250 on an all copper rad if it offers much more and I can keep it for 8years good, but I don't want to just admire it, I really need improved performance and Shoggy isn't here to tell us what's going on with his radiators.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


meanbruce what could shoggy tell you other than what other people have told you. he is not going to say our rads do not perform as good as others. Come on now you don't think he will tell you this do you???

He will tell us they are optimized for a low RPM silent system.

Shoggy is a good stand-up guy but he is not going to criticize his own products or at least I hope not!!

in my mind Darlene who has these and knows them has given you good advice.


----------



## kpoeticg

^^ Agreed on everything he just said
Shoggy definitely seems to be a str8 shooter. But it would just be bad business to point out the negatives of his product to people

Also, IT DIVA definitely knows her stuff. I wouldn't doubt much that she explains. She's one of the more helpful people on this entire forum


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Here is a link to Darlene's breakdown of one of her giant AMS rads for the lazy. What an insane build. Everything is bigger in the islands.


Darlene has a very unique built, and AMS was a good fit due to its incrementality. Other than aesthetic reasons, there is little value to these, especially considering the price delta between these and hardware labs that are also considered overpriced by some.
Alphacool got some great stuff, and xspc is very capable too. I have a an xspc 480 (pretty sure its rx), and it's cooling is great. I recently tore down my loop, and noticed that xspc rad did not keep up too well with day to day wear and tear after six months, with some discoloration in certain spots. All of my sr-1s and alphacools held up really well. But, for the price/performance ratio, it's hard to beat xspc, but alphacool comes close.


----------



## MeanBruce

But I have a unique work build and its always been at a slow incremental pace.

more music?

yes please

This is for our amazingly adorable Darlene, thank you for being here. : )






...


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> But I have a unique work build and its always been at a slow incremental pace.
> 
> more music?
> 
> yes please
> 
> This is for our amazingly adorable Darlene : )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lol...


----------



## MeanBruce

Darlene and I have decided to take this private so thank you guys, see you in the morning.


----------



## MeanBruce




----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I understand the move to the AX, I just cannot fathom why XSPC would discontinue their best selling like hotcakes RX360.


Not sure if anyone is looking but Petras tech shop has some in stock supposedly. I have ordered from them before and everything came through. Site doesnt look like its up to date though, but heres the link.

70 for the RX 240 and 90 for the RX 360. Personally, Im looking around for the best price for the Phobya 400mm radiator


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

The AQ 6 has gone from "Out of Stock" to "Orderable" on FCPU.

I got mine ordered
















Now the wait is on . . . . .

What will show up first, the GPU blocks and backplates ordered weeks ago, or the AQ 6 . . . . .

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13215/bus-259/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_XT_USB_Fan_Controller_Touch_Screen_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_w_Remote_53146.html?id=he8zNeLC&mv_pc=1102

Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanks Darlene,

Ordering the Aquaero 6 XT finally, but mine's a Christmas gift from family so I have to wrap it when it arrives and can't open until December 24th.


----------



## Daggi

I'm so happy today







Got my Aquaero 6 in the mail . I'm exited to try it out ..


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah my 6 Pro got delivered from PPCs today too


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah my 6 Pro got delivered from PPCs today too


That's great


----------



## kpoeticg

I agree. Got my new (used) camera in the mail today too. Been reading the manual for the camera all day & haven't had time to mess with my new Aquaero yet. Looks like it might be a long night


----------



## pilotter

impressed with the aquaero6.









Is there a possibility to show the cpu temp on the lcd? I have the software sensors setup, and available in aquasuite, but now I would like to show it on the screen....


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> impressed with the aquaero6.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a possibility to show the cpu temp on the lcd? I have the software sensors setup, and available in aquasuite, but now I would like to show it on the screen....


Yes there is. Just Add Software sensor in Information pages







I use this with AIDA and it works great.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yes there is. Just Add Software sensor in Information pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this with AIDA and it works great.


OH man, FrozenCPU says up to 18days before stock, PPCs sold out their 30units of A6Pro, and this entire Christmas present thing is making me crazy along with reading amazing information like this new functionality for the Aquaero 6 I didn't even know existed.

I need to get the A6 XT into my hands as soon as possible so I can tune my system for a 5.3Ghz and 5.4Ghz boot with the fans rolling at around 1500rpm chassis door open and AirConditioning cranked way down to 21C. Will apply the new Prolimatech PK-3 thermal interface before testing.

Got a buddy of mine from ROG helping me, he's underwater with a 3770K that will boot to 5.2 but never 5.3 no matter how much voltage. This CPU has been booting into every clock at lower volts that his so we both believe it may reach 5.3 or 5.4Ghz.

I may be able to stress test or at least Cinebench test way down at 5.0 with this H100i, but not any higher clocks.

This Aquaero is just too important to get wrapped up for and into Christmas, think I'll just take over this purchase myself.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> OH man, FrozenCPU says up to 18days before stock, PPCs sold out their 30units of A6Pro, and this entire Christmas present thing is making me crazy along with reading amazing information like this new functionality for the Aquaero 6 I didn't even know existed.


Order directly from Germany. Yeah it'll cost you about $30-50 for overseas shipping to get it here in a week, but if you HAVE to have it ...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Order directly from Germany. Yeah it'll cost you about $30-50 for overseas shipping to get it here in a week, but if you HAVE to have it ...


Considered that since PPCS refuses to inform us on the arrival date of their first A6 XT shipment, getting close to $280 with shipping, yikes.









Off topic question only because I respect your guy's knowledge and techspertise so much. Is there a benefit to a 120hz television for general viewing? It's for my 76year old grandmother, thinking a Samsung 40inch for her, but she'll never use the smartTV functions, if there is a viewing benefit with 120hz over the 60hz displays, I'll get her one.

Thanks guys, hope everyone is having an amazing weekend, I have family in from San Diego for a week, woot.


----------



## MeanBruce

Max is now sporting a brand new fedora, compliments of the San Francisco Giants baseball club.

You look very handsome and debonair in that hat Max.























http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4760_zpsd38cd421.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4762_zps05cb3b2c.jpg.html


----------



## pilotter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yes there is. Just Add Software sensor in Information pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this with AIDA and it works great.


brilliant! got it on screen now! Now if only there were more custom info pages


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> brilliant! got it on screen now! Now if only there were more custom info pages


*Here* is some good Aquaero info for you to read if you want!!


----------



## MeanBruce

I love you OCN, but does your presentation have to remain so dull and stale? Like cold white toast dropped from space without a warm shower for days? Consistently?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I love OCN, but does it have to remain so dull and stale? Like cold white toast dropped from space without a warm shower for days? Consistently?


So agreed, it's nice to spice things up once in a while







Nice song and a beautiful lady by the way


----------



## skupples

people stateside should be able to get the unit from aquatuning for less than ordering it directly from Germany, even though AT is simply middle-manning the transaction, it will cost less. Even with the 10$ handling fee. It cost 235$ to get it shipped to my door, & only took 3 days.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> people stateside should be able to get the unit from aquatuning for less than ordering it directly from Germany, even though AT is simply middle-manning the transaction, it will cost less. Even with the 10$ handling fee. It cost 235$ to get it shipped to my door, & only took 3 days.


tell them skup, I have been saying this for days but people seem to be scared to do this for some reason.

I actually have gotten where I order a lot of items from them either 9 or 12 dollars flat rate shipping and will have in 2 to 3 days. And on some things there prices are better than I can find in the US. Ordered 2 Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 560mm and a bunch of other items and I had them in 3 days at cheaper price than US stores... so always keep this in mind. I do now!!

I got my Pro from them after tax and shipping was cheaper than it was selling for in the US when they finally got them in stock...


----------



## MeanBruce

More beautiful Marina at 19

skip to 1:06 for the magic


----------



## kpoeticg

AT has most stuff cheaper than other places. Alot of stuff they sell in packs too. Like fans/gaskets in 3,4,10 packs. Also rads combo'd with fans. They have good prices. Usually ends up being about the same as ordering from FCPU or PPCS after the Canadian Customs fee. Which is weird considering the shipping doesn't even enter canada. Germany -> U.S


----------



## MeanBruce

Because this is the way we like it here at OCN boring, and plain as Jane, plain as paper, disgustingly desiccant devoid of persona and/or feeling, and if you don't like it then get the hell out of here Bruce and create your own web magazine.

OK, I will, thanks


----------



## seross69

Can get the XT at PPC now. find it *HERE*


----------



## VSG

Wow is this the first time PPC is more expensive than FrozenCPU?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

They still haven't shipped mine from Germany yet. Tempted to cancel my order and order from PPCS or FCPU


----------



## lolslk

It can read 8 temps sensors plus the D-5 with Aquabus can read 1 each so you would have a total of 10 temp sensors


----------



## VSG

So with the XT only $20 more than the Pro, I am glad I waited


----------



## kpoeticg

The Pro's not bad looking either


----------



## VSG

Very nice


----------



## kpoeticg

If i didn't already have the remote from when i ordered my 5 Pro though, it wouldn't make much sense with only $20 difference


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Pro's not bad looking either
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That... is quite sexy.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Can get the XT at PPC now. find it *HERE*


I noticed that last night while I was ordering yet more fittings . . . . . .

Hopefully that means that FCPU has received, or is about to receive, their stock as well, and can begin shipping to those of us who already ordered when it first became "orderable".

I wonder how many units PPC actually got, as I see the Pro on FCPU is only showing 3 units and it just came available.

Darlene


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hopefully that means that FCPU has received, or is about to receive, their stock as well, and can begin shipping to those of us who already ordered when it first became "orderable".
> 
> Darlene


I actually got my shipping notice and tracking number on Monday morning. I ordered my A6 XT from FCPU as soon as I got the email notification that they had become orderable. Hopefully that means you'll get a notice soon too.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Anyone have problems logging in to there aquatune account? I ordered about $300 of stuff last night, the pay pal transaction completed, yet aquatune claims I'm not registered. They had to have the correct email for the pay pal to complete. When I send that much money to a foreign country I want to keep a eye on it.









ETA: Even though the .uk, .de and .us all look alike they are not sharing login info. I finally got a shipping notice. happy camper.


----------



## VSG

I went ahead and placed an order for the XT (and other items) on FCPU


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slippyturtle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hopefully that means that FCPU has received, or is about to receive, their stock as well, and can begin shipping to those of us who already ordered when it first became "orderable".
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I actually got my shipping notice and tracking number on Monday morning. I ordered my A6 XT from FCPU as soon as I got the email notification that they had become orderable. Hopefully that means you'll get a notice soon too.
Click to expand...

Hopefully mine will come any time now.

I actually noticed it become orderable and ordered it, and the in-stock notice showed up later that afternoon.

On the bright side, my EK blocks and back-plates shipped yesterday, even though they still show as orderable, but not "in stock".

Must be limited quantities arriving and going out to those who essentially pre-ordered first.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Ya, that's standard FCPU policy. They did that with the 290x EK blocks also recently.


----------



## Train Wreck

Oh I would love to get the XT or even the PRO. But the price?? A bit steep.

Do I need it? Nope

Do I want it? A big fat hell yeah!

I might have to sleep on this.

EDIT:

I decided to order it anyway from Performance-PCS


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Oh I would love to get the XT or even the PRO. But the price?? A bit steep.
> 
> Do I need it? Nope
> 
> Do I want it? A big fat hell yeah!
> 
> I might have to sleep on this.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I decided to order it anyway from Performance-PCS


Just one????


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just one????


our SFF builds don't need 100 fans.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> our SFF builds don't need 100 fans.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just one????


Yep.....just one























I'm a bit of a gadget junkie

The software control looks so much better than the Corsair Link software. I've read a lot of complaints about that.

I also notice that some people have a heatsink on the back of the Aquaero.

Can a fan be mounted on it too?


----------



## kpoeticg

Corsair Link depends on windows. Aquaero's an independant unit


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Corsair Link depends on windows. Aquaero's an independant unit


I just watched a short youtube video on the Aquaero and I am amazed.

I am so stoked to get my rig built.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Yep.....just one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit of a gadget junkie
> 
> The software control looks so much better than the Corsair Link software. I've read a lot of complaints about that.
> 
> I also notice that some people have a heatsink on the back of the Aquaero.
> 
> Can a fan be mounted on it too?


actually with the 5 you could water cool it and with the 6 it is not required to get the 30 watts. different design and regulation. not as much wasted power in the form of heat... much better.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> actually with the 5 you could water cool it and with the 6 it is not required to get the 30 watts. different design and regulation. not as much wasted power in the form of heat... much better.


Watercooling control......

That is another reason why I bought the aquaero. If/when I decide to go all out on a custom-loop watercooling setup, the Aquaero will be center stage


----------



## SinatraFan

got my 6 XT in the mail today!!!










Me HAPPY


----------



## VSG

Mine has shipped from FCPU so I guess I will get mine next week.


----------



## Train Wreck

Mine has shipped from performance-pcs.com.

Should be here by Saturday

All I need now is the keyboard which I am having trouble getting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> got my 6 XT in the mail today!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me HAPPY


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mine has shipped from FCPU so I guess I will get mine next week.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Mine has shipped from performance-pcs.com.
> 
> Should be here by Saturday
> 
> All I need now is the keyboard which I am having trouble getting.


Interestingly enough, mine have shipped from both FCPU and PPCs










When I hadn't heard anything by Wednesday from FCPU that mine had shipped, (knowing others had heard by Monday evening) I ordered one from PPCs along with a 1200W NZXT PSU, figuring at least I'd end up with 1 new AQ6, and worst case scenario, I'd end up with 2, lol . . .

Looks like the worst case scenario played out.

I had planned to cancel the FCPU order once the PPCs order arrived if it still hadn't shipped. I just wanted to be sure I had a bird in the hand first.

I guess I could use the second one in place of the 5LT . . . .
















Darlene


----------



## skupples




----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Interestingly enough, mine have shipped from both FCPU and PPCs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I hadn't heard anything by Wednesday from FCPU that mine had shipped, (knowing others had heard by Monday evening) I ordered one from PPCs along with a 1200W NZXT PSU, figuring at least I'd end up with 1 new AQ6, and worst case scenario, I'd end up with 2, lol . . .
> 
> Looks like the worst case scenario played out.
> 
> I had planned to cancel the FCPU order once the PPCs order arrived if it still hadn't shipped. I just wanted to be sure I had a bird in the hand first.
> 
> I guess I could use the second one in place of the 5LT . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I ordered mine yesterday and I got an email from them telling me that they cannot ship it to an address other than what the credit card company has on file. Anyway, I just told them to ship it to my house.

I never understood that.

Oh well, I'm getting it by Saturday

performance-pcs.com has an outstanding supply of computer parts. Sidewinder is another good one as well as Frozencpu


----------



## skupples

Does anyone advise against sticking one of the supplied temp sensors by my gpu vrms? (between the pcb & waterblock)


----------



## VSG

I had a similar discussion with the CPU block and the consensus was not worth the reduced block/surface contact.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had a similar discussion with the CPU block and the consensus was not worth the reduced block/surface contact.


Wasn't going to stick it in between the block & the vram, just by the vram's between the pcb & the block.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

My bank had an issue with ordering directly from Aquacomputer in Germany, so I ended up having to cancel that order and order the 6 XT and "High Flow" sensor from Preformance PCs. I ordered it this morning and It shipped out today. Tracking info shows it will be in my hot little hands Monday.


----------



## HeyBear

Hi all, I'm looking to buy an Aquaero 6 soon but had a few questions with regards to what I can hook up to it, ideally I'm looking to connect:

1 inline temperature sensor
1 'High Flow' flow sensor
14 fans (probably an e-loop variant now AP-15's are not readily available)
2 Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with USB and Aquabus Interface (don't think two of these are possible)
1 LED strip for a lit mid panel, possibly some accent lighting also
Would I be able to control that with 1 aquaero 6?


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi all, I'm looking to buy an Aquaero 6 soon but had a few questions with regards to what I can hook up to it, ideally I'm looking to connect:
> 
> 1 inline temperature sensor
> 1 'High Flow' flow sensor
> 14 fans (probably an e-loop variant now AP-15's are not readily available)
> 2 Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with USB and Aquabus Interface (don't think two of these are possible)
> 1 LED strip for a lit mid panel, possibly some accent lighting also
> Would I be able to control that with 1 aquaero 6?


Everything is possible, except the LED strip i think. Two D5s isn't a problem - the Aquacomputer D5s are powered directly by the PSU, can you can control two via the Aquabus easily - their speed is controlled internally (at the direction of the A6). You'll need fan splitters for 14 fans, but the quantity isn't an issue.

The aquaero 5 couldn't do a whole strip of LEDs, and I'm pretty sure that hasn't changed. Perhaps someone else can confirm.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Everything is possible, except the LED strip i think. Two D5s isn't a problem - the Aquacomputer D5s are powered directly by the PSU, can you can control two via the Aquabus easily - their speed is controlled internally (at the direction of the A6). You'll need fan splitters for 14 fans, but the quantity isn't an issue.
> 
> The aquaero 5 couldn't do a whole strip of LEDs, and I'm pretty sure that hasn't changed. Perhaps someone else can confirm.


Thanks for the response, Quad. I carried on reading after I posted my question and the very next page had the answer I needed regarding the pumps







I read an earlier post regarding the high and low speed aquabus ports and thought I could only have one fully functioning aquabus device, I didn't realise you could use a splitter









Any info on the LED's would be greatly appreciated though.

If it helps, I was planning on using some of the SMD 3528 LED strip lights and it's for a 900D. I think the length of that case is around 70cm so I guessed at around 60 cm of LED strip:

72 (600 / 5m) or 36 (300 / 5m) LED's @ Power:0.065w Voltage :3.0-3.6V Current:20mA


----------



## goodtobeking

I have used the 3528 strips with my Aquaero 5 LT. You have to get the "two pin relay connector" and you can control the brightness via aquasuite. You can do some pretty cool things with them too. But IIRC, they are rated for 1 amp. I will look that up as I have asked the very same question before. But I have personally done about 6-7 feet on each channel(one for cool white LEDs and the other for blue) at the same time.

Heres the 2pin relay connector I mentioned. You connect the LED leads to this, no pins or soldering required. little screwdriver is needed though









And for reference, heres the 3pin relay connector as well. I use it to turn my CCFL on/off, in my Liquid Fusion reservoir, when I take off/replace the side panel automatically. But you can do a number of other things with it as well.

EDIT: I just checked my manual for my LT 5, and the PWM connetors(above mentioned ones) are rated for 1Amp max, with a frequency of 14kHz. And forgot to mention they control the LEDs with 100% scale, which is very helpful and nice


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> Everything is possible, except the LED strip i think. Two D5s isn't a problem - the Aquacomputer D5s are powered directly by the PSU, can you can control two via the Aquabus easily - their speed is controlled internally (at the direction of the A6). You'll need fan splitters for 14 fans, but the quantity isn't an issue.
> 
> The aquaero 5 couldn't do a whole strip of LEDs, and I'm pretty sure that hasn't changed. Perhaps someone else can confirm.


I swear someone told me you can use the Aquaero to control LED strips

I'll see what I can find

EDIT.....

Here's a link that may be useful

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103225-dimming-led-strip-from-a-fan-port-on-a-aquaero-5/


----------



## zucciniknife

Edit: I'll just go make a thread


----------



## Quadricwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I swear someone told me you can use the Aquaero to control LED strips
> 
> I'll see what I can find
> 
> EDIT.....
> 
> Here's a link that may be useful
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103225-dimming-led-strip-from-a-fan-port-on-a-aquaero-5/


That's great, thanks. I knew you could do small numbers of LEDs, but didn't think it would handle the power draw of more than a couple.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quadricwan*
> 
> That's great, thanks. I knew you could do small numbers of LEDs, but didn't think it would handle the power draw of more than a couple.


You're quite welcome. I'm glad I could help out


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I swear someone told me you can use the Aquaero to control LED strips
> 
> I'll see what I can find
> 
> EDIT.....
> 
> Here's a link that may be useful
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103225-dimming-led-strip-from-a-fan-port-on-a-aquaero-5/


Thanks, Train Wreck! +REP for your troubles.

I should be able to run everything I need from the Aquaero 6, excellent!


----------



## kpoeticg

The Aquaero has 2 x 2Pin PWM headers that are meant for controlling LED's. There's also the RGB LED Port and the 3 Pin Relay.
So you can def control LED strips with an aquaero

I know the Phobya Flexlight's are compatible, just like they were compatible on the Aquaero 5

I know the 3Pin Relay is capable of 1A
Not sure about the specs of the LED PWM Headers and RGB Port. I'm sure Shoggy will chime in tho at some point

I remember that particularly the Phobya Flexlight strips were compatible with the Aquaero 5 tho









Edit x6: The PWM LED Headers carry 12V/1A @ 15kHz. Not sure about the RGB header.


----------



## goodtobeking

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The Aquaero has 2 x 2Pin PWM headers that are meant for controlling LED's. There's also the RGB LED Port and the 3 Pin Relay.
> So you can def control LED strips with an aquaero
> 
> I know the Phobya Flexlight's are compatible, just like they were compatible on the Aquaero 5
> 
> I know the 3Pin Relay is capable of 1A
> Not sure about the specs of the LED PWM Headers and RGB Port. I'm sure Shoggy will chime in tho at some point
> 
> I remember that particularly the Phobya Flexlight strips were compatible with the Aquaero 5 tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit x6: The PWM LED Headers carry 12V/1A @ 15kHz. Not sure about the RGB header.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> I have used the 3528 strips with my Aquaero 5 LT. You have to get the "two pin relay connector" and you can control the brightness via aquasuite. You can do some pretty cool things with them too. But IIRC, they are rated for 1 amp. I will look that up as I have asked the very same question before. But I have personally done about 6-7 feet on each channel(one for cool white LEDs and the other for blue) at the same time.
> 
> Heres the 2pin relay connector I mentioned. You connect the LED leads to this, no pins or soldering required. little screwdriver is needed though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for reference, heres the 3pin relay connector as well. I use it to turn my CCFL on/off, in my Liquid Fusion reservoir, when I take off/replace the side panel automatically. But you can do a number of other things with it as well.
> 
> EDIT: I just checked my manual for my LT 5, and the PWM connetors(above mentioned ones) are rated for 1Amp max, with a frequency of 14kHz. And forgot to mention they control the LEDs with 100% scale, which is very helpful and nice






I just posted basically the same info above. Although my answer may have not been so clear.

The main advantage of using the PWM LED connections over the Fan Header port is that the LEDs are made to be controlled with PWM. While they will work on the fan header, it may change the color(most noticeable in white), not 100% linear control, and not be able to be dimmed as much as with PWM.

Good article here

Although it may be easier to connect to the fan port, as it only requires a standard fan connector. Where the PWM LED port you need the above mentioned specialty connector.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Hi all, I'm looking to buy an Aquaero 6 soon but had a few questions with regards to what I can hook up to it, ideally I'm looking to connect:
> 
> 1 inline temperature sensor
> 1 'High Flow' flow sensor
> 14 fans (probably an e-loop variant now AP-15's are not readily available)
> 2 Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with USB and Aquabus Interface (don't think two of these are possible)
> 1 LED strip for a lit mid panel, possibly some accent lighting also
> Would I be able to control that with 1 aquaero 6?


You can get the Aquaero LED Amp from Jeak here http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-aquaero-led-amp/

This may solve your issue.


----------



## skupples

10 typhoons per header should be ez as pie, correct?


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> 
> I just posted basically the same info above. Although my answer may have not been so clear.
> 
> The main advantage of using the PWM LED connections over the Fan Header port is that the LEDs are made to be controlled with PWM. While they will work on the fan header, it may change the color(most noticeable in white), not 100% linear control, and not be able to be dimmed as much as with PWM.
> 
> Good article here
> 
> Although it may be easier to connect to the fan port, as it only requires a standard fan connector. Where the PWM LED port you need the above mentioned specialty connector.


Sorry, Good. I think I completely skipped your post!








Good to hear you've ran that amount of LED strip off of the Aquaero, that's more than enough for my needs. I'm definitely going to buy the two pin relay connector and run my strip off of one of the PWM headers.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 10 typhoons per header should be ez as pie, correct?


Well, the AP-15's have a rated current of like 0.08something which would be no problem. The starting current says 0.36something tho. I know the Aquaero has a startup boost for each channel. Have to check what the startup boost is.

Shoggy, do you know if anybody's ever unplugged the Aquaero screen from PCB & used wires to extend the connector to another part of the chassis? I have an idea for the build im doing, and i have enough room for the screen with the buttons in the front of my bay but a rads taking up too much room for the whole unit to fit.

Any reason i couldn't extend the connection with some 22 or 26AWG wire?

Obviously i'm not asking for your "blessing" for warranty reasons, and i'd be assuming all responsibility



^^That 24Pin header's what i'm talking about extending with wires. Thanx in advance for any help you can give me!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 10 typhoons per header should be ez as pie, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the AP-15's have a rated current of like 0.08something which would be no problem. The starting current says 0.36something tho. I know the Aquaero has a startup boost for each channel. Have to check what the startup boost is.
> 
> Shoggy, do you know if anybody's ever unplugged the Aquaero screen from PCB & used wires to extend the connector to another part of the chassis? I have an idea for the build im doing, and i have enough room for the screen with the buttons in the front of my bay but a rads taking up too much room for the whole unit to fit.
> 
> Any reason i couldn't extend the connection with some 22 or 26AWG wire?
> 
> Obviously i'm not asking for your "blessing" for warranty reasons, and i'd be assuming all responsibility
> 
> 
> 
> ^^That 24Pin header's what i'm talking about extending with wires. Thanx in advance for any help you can give me!!
Click to expand...

If you make up a ribbon cable with the right connectors, it should be ok for reasonable lengths.

You may be able to use a modded 34pin floppy drive cable, or 40 pin IDE cable if you get a male/male header strip to gender change the male on the display board.

Or just get the right connectors from Digikey









D.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i'll definitely order the right connectors if/when i do it. I'd be extending it probly like 110-140mm, just so i can mount the screen at the front of the bay and mount the main PCB on the side of the bay.
Thanx for helping me out again Darlene. Do you know the best way to figure out the pitch of the pins? Do i just measure in between them?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, i'll definitely order the right connectors if/when i do it. I'd be extending it probly like 110-140mm, just so i can mount the screen at the front of the bay and mount the main PCB on the side of the bay.
> Thanx for helping me out again Darlene. Do you know the best way to figure out the pitch of the pins? Do i just measure in between them?


The pin pitch is 2mm.

Friggin' metric, as opposed to the rather usual .100", so you'll need to order parts instead of being able to hack something.

Digikey has plenty of 2mm stuff though, it's pretty common.

D.


----------



## kpoeticg

Awesome. Thanx so much for helping me out with that. It's gonna be a very nice improvement for my build. I was planning on placing a decent order of connectors & pins anyway from one of the many molex distributors.

Thanx again!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Awesome. Thanx so much for helping me out with that. It's gonna be a very nice improvement for my build. I was planning on placing a decent order of connectors & pins anyway from one of the many molex distributors.
> 
> Thanx again!!


Check these Digikey part numbers, should do what you need:

Wire: WM13-5-ND

Connectors: AKA24L-ND

Male/Male Header: SAM1173--12-ND

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx. I'll definitely use those. I have my Aquaero assembled in 2 halves now, waiting to place my order


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> Thanks, Train Wreck! +REP for your troubles.
> 
> I should be able to run everything I need from the Aquaero 6, excellent!


You're quite welcome HeyBear.

My Aquaero is coming in tomorrow and I'll be able to start my build on Tuesday.


----------



## skupples

I'm going to rage on Corsair so hard. 900D's biggest flaw = the front panels are 1-2 mm too small to fit 99% of bay devices properly. This is so frustrating. I don't know how something this blatant could slip through R&D. No one wants their devices sticking out 1-2 mm. Not to mention the silly little plastic slides that require removal(slicing out) to fit ANYTHING in @ all.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm going to rage on Corsair so hard. 900D's biggest flaw = the front panels are 1-2 mm too small to fit 99% of bay devices properly. This is so frustrating. I don't know how something this blatant could slip through R&D. No one wants their devices sticking out 1-2 mm. Not to mention the silly little plastic slides that require removal(slicing out) to fit ANYTHING in @ all.


Only $50 more ya coulda hada CaseLabs M8 at $399. Whooooopah!

Plastic is for babies.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Only $50 more ya coulda hada CaseLabs M8 at $399. Whooooopah!
> 
> Plastic is for babies.


900D was 275$, and only the trim is plastic.







The decided that the bay's needed plastic side clip thingies. They stand out 1.5mm, and 10mm long, which keep 90% of devices from properly sliding in, unless cut out.

M8 too small anyways. I would of gone with double with + pedestals.


----------



## Ryanboost

Looking to purchase the Aquaero 6 today but have a few last minute questions.

1. What Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor should I purchase? I'm assuming the AQ-53129 since it has the aquabus interface and the other doesn't but I wanted to double check.
2. Will I need anything additional to connect 4 led strips?
3. Should I plug the Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor into the Flow Rate Sensor or directly into the Aquaero 6?

Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Can't wait to get this thing running.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Looking to purchase the Aquaero 6 today but have a few last minute questions.
> 
> 1. What Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor should I purchase? I'm assuming the AQ-53129 since it has the aquabus interface and the other doesn't but I wanted to double check.
> 2. Will I need anything additional to connect 4 led strips?
> 3. Should I plug the Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor into the Flow Rate Sensor or directly into the Aquaero 6?
> 
> Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Can't wait to get this thing running.


Cant help with the LED's

But the flow sensor hookup to the aquabus will be seen as a MIPS device and you can only have 4 of these so you would not beable to do 4 pumps or something like this later.

If you are just going to have one I would say get the 53068 and a cable for it..

If you got the flow sensor that used the Aquabus you could plug it into the sensor or into the AQ6 itself..

Hope this helps..


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> Looking to purchase the Aquaero 6 today but have a few last minute questions.
> 
> 1. What Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor should I purchase? I'm assuming the AQ-53129 since it has the aquabus interface and the other doesn't but I wanted to double check.
> 2. Will I need anything additional to connect 4 led strips?
> 3. Should I plug the Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor into the Flow Rate Sensor or directly into the Aquaero 6?
> 
> Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Can't wait to get this thing running.


1. If you have the Aquaero 6, you really don't need to spend the extra money on the AQ-53129 for $72.95. You can just use the $46.95 AQ-53068. What the more expensive one allows you to do is connect the flow sensor to your computer via USB and monitor it via the software that way. Since you have the Aquaero 6, you don't need to connect it to the USB port, you can connect it to the Aquaero to monitor it.

2. Not sure. My system comes in today,

3. See #1. If you go with the less expensive flow meter, then simply plug the temperature sensor into the Aquaero 6. That is what I plan on doing with my system.


----------



## Ryanboost

Thanks Seross69 & 47! Fast reply and really helped not to mention saved me about $30. Have a good one!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> 1. If you have the Aquaero 6, you really don't need to spend the extra money on the AQ-53129 for $72.95. You can just use the $46.95 AQ-53068. What the more expensive one allows you to do is connect the flow sensor to your computer via USB and monitor it via the software that way. Since you have the Aquaero 6, you don't need to connect it to the USB port, you can connect it to the Aquaero to monitor it.
> 
> 2. Not sure. My system comes in today,
> 
> 3. See #1. If you go with the less expensive flow meter, then simply plug the temperature sensor into the Aquaero 6. That is what I plan on doing with my system.


Thanks 47Knucklehead that's great money-saving info bro, that's the flow meter I'm getting the AQ-53068. My A6 should be here Wednesday.









Will there be pictures? Oh yes, there will be pictures.


----------



## NYMD

Here is the 6 in black mounted in an MH10...


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Here is the 6 in black mounted in an MH10...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Sahweet Doc, Sahweeeeet.









Looked over at your build thread, awesomeness exemplified, but I think you misquoted that phrase, it's supposed to be "Liquor up front and Poker in the rear."


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Here is the 6 in black mounted in an MH10...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gotta love the Icy Dock and the Aquacomputer 6 Pro.









My 6 XT is arriving today, and I went with the Icy Dock singled bay unit for my build (for multiple boot options without using different partitions).

I just saw that picture and said to myself ... HEY, great minds think alike.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> HEY, great minds think alike.












It's like an OS smorgasboard! Win 8.1 is in one slot and OS X in another. I'll probably put a *nix in another slot, too. It is great when the bootloader just picks up that you put another OS in the Icy Dock and says hey, here is that option now, too.

And no hard drive cages inside the case makes for a very roomy build.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> It's like an OS smorgasboard! Win 8.1 is in one slot and OS X in another. I'll probably put a *nix in another slot, too. It is great when the bootloader just picks up that you put another OS in the Icy Dock and says hey, here is that option now, too.


In hind sight, I should have gone the route you did and went with the quad bay. I just didn't know how well it would be hanging 4 SATA cables off my mobo and trying to set up the BIOS to be able to boot up off of any one of the 4. Besides, I have an older 3770K motherboard and it only has 2 native 6Gbps ports off the main channel and the rest are off a secondary channel. Just not sure how well that would work.

I love the look of the Icy Dock and the Aquaero together. That is such an awesome look.


----------



## provost

Someone stole my avatar and my quote from earlier in this thread? Wth.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *provost*
> 
> Someone stole my avatar and my quote from earlier in this thread? Wth.


This is how spammers build up forum accounts to look official before they start spamming.

That guy stole your avatar and is reposting other people's posts as well:

original: http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/13700_50#post_21402045

repost: http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/13750_50#post_21402502

I've reported that post above with a note about the spammer preparation.


----------



## skupples




----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Here is the 6 in black mounted in an MH10...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Found the Icy Dock Quad SSD bay over at PPCS for 69.99, love it, love the multiple OS options you have available, and the look from the frontal view with the Aquaero 6 is Yahhaay.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/mb994sp4sb1_02_zps324aab21.jpg.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71_212_963&products_id=34317

Yet after calculating the widespread nuclide decay rate of my XXL side window's karma using the equation below, that long black object extending into the clean aesthetic, nope it's not for my 8db auditory out silent business rig, yet I do love the idea of the Apple Mavericks OS/Win 8.1 Pro ready to load up at your command.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/M...e82df2b9eecbcfccd6ebf59e_zps6b0c6023.png.html

I could add that option with a second RAID0 array. But how do you get the secret Mac Sauce? Is there still a compatibility chip you must purchase?

Thanks NYMD, rep rep for the amazing new ideas to ponder and/or deconstruct.









...


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> In hind sight, I should have gone the route you did and went with the quad bay. I just didn't know how well it would be hanging 4 SATA cables off my mobo and trying to set up the BIOS to be able to boot up off of any one of the 4. Besides, I have an older 3770K motherboard and it only has 2 native 6Gbps ports off the main channel and the rest are off a secondary channel. Just not sure how well that would work.
> 
> I love the look of the Icy Dock and the Aquaero together. That is such an awesome look.


Did you see they have a 6-bay Icy Dock now? The hot swap trays aren't as nice, though since there isn't much room for them stuffing six 2.5"s into one bay.

So you got the 3.5" in a 5.25? I'm also on a X79 so only 2 native 6GB SATAs as well. But I figure the Icy Dock will move with me through a few motherboards and setups anyway.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> So you got the 3.5" in a 5.25?


No, I got the standard 3.5" Icy Dock then in order to preserve the nice brush aluminum look of the Aquaero 6 and the Phantek case, I spent a little bit more money and got the SilverStone all aluminum 5.25" to 3.5" adapter.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I could add that option with a second RAID0 array. But how do you get the secret Mac Sauce? Is there still a compatibility chip you must purchase?


lol, glad you like it . It is a nice piece of kit... almost server-level build quality.

*** edit: be sure it is the newer model that has the on/off switch for the fans or you will be cutting those wires to turn the damn things off -- loudest thing in my case are the Icy Dock fans ***

re: the Mac secret sauce. Google 'hackintosh' --- there are about 20 ways to do it but the easiest way is if you start with a motherboard that is known to be compatible. I did a quick search and it looks like the motherboard from your sig works fine!

http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/289770-success-asus-maximus-iv-extreme-z/

It is like a 10-step process involving a USB install of OS X and then driver tweaking to get all of the bits working and the bootloader stable. First time it might take you 6 hours but now I can get OS X going on a PC in 1 or 2.


----------



## provost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> This is how spammers build up forum accounts to look official before they start spamming.
> 
> That guy stole your avatar and is reposting other people's posts as well:
> 
> original: http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/13700_50#post_21402045
> 
> repost: http://www.overclock.net/t/831636/official-corsair-graphite-club/13750_50#post_21402502
> 
> I've reported that post above with a note about the spammer preparation.


Incredible! He just changed his Avatar after it was mentioned. I have reported it too.


----------



## VSG

Man, that's an extremely dedicated spammer account. Who has the time and patience to do this manually? It is definitely not an automated bot.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Man, that's an extremely dedicated spammer account. Who has the time and patience to do this manually? It is definitely not an automated bot.


Confusing isn't it? I'm still trying to decide if it's a spammer. If so, wth is he selling? Corsair 540's & GTX 760's?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Man, that's an extremely dedicated spammer account. Who has the time and patience to do this manually? It is definitely not an automated bot.


Usually the super dedicated ones like this are either a normal person who is trying to get access to something that is locked out by post count (like the buy/sell forums) or it is an overseas worker who is paid a few bucks a day to do this sort of manual spam account build-up.


----------



## skupples

Well, he's up to 100 posts rather quickly. His advice is strange, & contradictory. So, i'm leaning towards market place access.


----------



## kpoeticg

Those spammers had me bugged out for a while. 2 different occasions i saw one of my posts from like a week before. I thought there was a worm going around OCN like efnet


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those spammers had me bugged out for a while. 2 different occasions i saw one of my posts from like a week before. I thought there was a worm going around OCN like efnet


He hasn't stolen any of my posts, most likely because they're incoherent.


----------



## Train Wreck

I'm looking at my Aquaero 6 and I can't figure out how to remove the silver faceplate and replace it with the black one.

Am I THAT moronic?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I'm looking at my Aquaero 6 and I can't figure out how to remove the silver faceplate and replace it with the black one.
> 
> Am I THAT moronic?


I'm thinking the 3 Alan head screws?


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I'm thinking the 3 Alan head screws?


I'm looking at it now and they don't look like alan head screws. The holes look smooth and don't have any edges to them


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I'm looking at it now and they don't look like alan head screws. The holes look smooth and don't have any edges to them


I just read Shoggy in an AC thread advising the removal of the four allen head screws and then the stainless faceplate is glued onto the touch controller so work around the corners with an edgeless item and slowly pry it up and off. I wouldn't use too much force not to damage the touch controller.

Use the old North South East West technique a little at a time.

Sorry I don't have better instructions, my A6 doesn't get here for two more days.


----------



## skupples

They look round, but will most definitely fit an Allen key or even a Torx.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I just read Shoggy in an AC thread advising the removal of the four allen head screws and then the stainless faceplate is glued onto the touch controller so work around the corners with an edgeless item and slowly pry it up and off. I wouldn't use too much force not to damage the touch controller.
> 
> Use the old North South East West technique a little at a time.
> 
> Sorry I don't have better instructions, my A6 doesn't get here for two more days.


The allen head screws looks like they're removable from the back and if I do that, won't the unit fall apart?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> The allen head screws looks like they're removable from the back and if I do that, won't the unit fall apart?


If they do indeed feed from the rear then your faceplate should be the first item to free up/drop off in the front, yes I just found a photo of the A6 from the rear and it does look like they may have reverse engineered these new units.

Are you certain there is NO Allen threading accessible on the front screws? Or are they just nuts?

Does the Allen screwhead in the rear by the Molex power port (and the other three) look like it moves thru the entire unit back to front?



edit: added pic


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> If they do indeed feed from the rear then your faceplate should be the first item to free up/drop off in the front, yes I just found a photo of the A6 from the rear and it does look like they may have reverse engineered these new units.
> 
> Are you certain there is NO Allen threading accessible on the front screws? Or are they just nuts?
> 
> Does the Allen screwhead in the rear by the Molex power port look like it moves thru the entire unit back to front?


I removed one of the screws from the back and the screw came off.....it doesn't go all the way to the front.

Unless the front screw(or whatever you call it) takes a different sized allan wrench which sucks because I have to go out and buy one.

I read on aquaero's forum that the faceplate is glued on and all you need to do is pry the silver one off. That sounds silly. Looking at the black faceplate, the screw holes are recessed so it sure looks like they're meant to have screws through them.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I removed one of the screws from the back and the screw came off.....it doesn't go all the way to the front.
> 
> Unless the front screw(or whatever you call it) takes a different sized allan wrench which sucks because I have to go out and buy one.
> 
> I read on aquaero's forum that the faceplate is glued on and all you need to do is pry the silver one off. That sounds silly. Looking at the black faceplate, the screw holes are recessed so it sure looks like they're meant to have screws through them.


Sounds like there are 8 screws total each moving halfway into the unit. Yes it would suck to have to go out and buy a Torx, just for one job, hope you can get a grip on those front screws, I'm looking for some in black, think they are just countersunk M3s.

Let kpoeticg or one of the recent owners reply I'm certain someone has replaced the faceplate, that's the 1st thing I plan on doing when I get mine.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Sounds like there are 8 screws total each moving halfway into the unit. Yes it would suck to have to go out and buy a Torx, just for one job, hope you can get a grip on those front screws, I'm looking for some in black, think they are just countersunk M3s.
> 
> Let kpoeticg or one of the recent owners reply I'm certain someone has replaced the faceplate, that's the 1st thing I plan on doing when I get mine.


Well I'm heading to Best Buy tomorrow to pick up the last piece of equipment I need(the keyboard) and I'll stop somewhere and get another set of allen wrenches if that's what I need to get. Looking again at the screws, they don't look like torx screws to me.


----------



## skupples

It's basically built with motherboard standoffs. So, you have 4 in the front, 4 in the back. It goes, Faceplate>>touch screen PCB>>connectors PCB. this is how i'm enterprating it from holding it in my hand, @KPoeticg has his disassembled, he could confirm this.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I removed one of the screws from the back and the screw came off.....it doesn't go all the way to the front.
> 
> Unless the front screw(or whatever you call it) takes a different sized allan wrench which sucks because I have to go out and buy one.
> 
> I read on aquaero's forum that the faceplate is glued on and all you need to do is pry the silver one off. That sounds silly. Looking at the black faceplate, the screw holes are recessed so it sure looks like they're meant to have screws through them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's basically built with motherboard standoffs. So, you have 4 in the front, 4 in the back. It goes, Faceplate>>touch screen PCB>>connectors PCB. this is how i'm enterprating it from holding it in my hand, @KPoeticg has his disassembled, he could confirm this.


I actually have mine assembled into 2 halves right now so i can extend the screen a little bit away from the main PCB.
I'm pretty sure i posted a few pics in here last night, but give me a few minutes and i'll check it again so i can describe the standoffs better









Edit:




Ok so the last (3rd) pic shows it best. The green pcb is the screen pcb, the black pcb is the main unit pcb.
The pcb's are connected with M3 Standoffs
From Faceplate -> Main PCB
4 M3 screws go into the faceplate
The Screen PCB has 4 M3 Standoffs that the faceplate screws go into
The Standoffs from the screen pcb screw into 4 more M3 Standoffs that you can see on the back of the Black (Main) PCB
Then there's 4 M3 screws that screw into those standoffs through the main part of the pcb where you plug your fans and accessories into

Hope that was clear. If anybody needs me to do a better job describing, just let me know









Edit: Also, the Standoffs between the faceplate and screen PCB have a female end and a male end. The female end is to screw the faceplate into, the male end screws into the standoffs you see on the black PCB. The Main/Black PCB Standoffs are female on both ends.

You can see i have M3 Locknuts holding the faceplate/screen together.


----------



## VSG

If you can describe how to exchange the front plates with pictures, I will appreciate it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you can describe how to exchange the front plates with pictures, I will appreciate it.


Do you have an XT or Pro?

I'm asking because i'm pretty sure the XT screen is glued on so there's a little more to it. The Pro isn't glued so it's fairly straightforward

Not to shamelessly spam my build log (or maybe just a "little"







) I did a fairly detailed picture update of when i changed the faceplate
This post http://www.overclock.net/t/1435986/build-log-triclops-haf-xb-rive-be-liquid/360#post_21351845

If you have any other questions that post doesn't answer, feel free to ask there, here, or in PM. Either way, I'll definitely help u if i can









Edit x6 lol: With the Pro, you really just need to unscrew the 4 screws in the faceplate. That will separate the faceplate from the bay mounts too. Also the buttons are likely fall off when you remove it so make sure you're doing it on a surface where u won't lose the buttons.

Then when it's stripped, just lay the unit with the screen facing up & place the buttons back where they belong. Then you need to put the bay mounts between the standoffs and the faceplate. It's easiest to do that one screw at a time to keep the bay mounts lined up. If you choose not use the bay mounts, make sure you put a nylon washer between the standoffs and the faceplate, otherwise the buttons will be permanently pressed down


----------



## Train Wreck

Yes...I do have the XT so that means that the faceplate is glued onto the unit.

So....

I gotta get the right size allen wrench to undo the screws on the front and then pry the faceplate off, and then put the new faceplate on?

What's the purpose of the glue??

Why use two different allen screws so that you need two different allen wrenches??

That's a major PITA.

Why is the stock faceplate silver?? Do most people have silver cases???


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Yes...I do have the XT so that means that the faceplate is glued onto the unit.
> 
> So....
> 
> I gotta get the right size allen wrench to undo the screws on the front and then pry the faceplate off, and then put the new faceplate on?
> 
> What's the purpose of the glue??
> 
> Why use two different allen screws so that you need two different allen wrenches??
> 
> That's a major PITA.
> 
> Why is the stock faceplate silver?? Do most people have silver cases???


Yes the faceplate's glued on. I'm pretty sure it's because of the touchscreen. I remember when the A5 XT came out, there were issue's with the screen shorting out against the metal of people's chassis. So I'm pretty sure the glue serves a purpose. I can't advise you on the best way to switch the XT faceplate, but there's many other people in here that can. I've seen a few guides already, just don't remember what the links were.

As far as the different screws and stock silver, that's something you'll have to take up with Aquacomputer








The Black Faceplate is definitely an upgrade tho.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yes the faceplate's glued on. I'm pretty sure it's because of the touchscreen. I remember when the A5 XT came out, there were issue's with the screen shorting out against the metal of people's chassis. So I'm pretty sure the glue serves a purpose. I can't advise you on the best way to switch the XT faceplate, but there's many other people in here that can. I've seen a few guides already, just don't remember what the links were.
> 
> As far as the different screws and stock silver, that's something you'll have to take up with Aquacomputer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Black Faceplate is definitely an upgrade tho.


The bottom line is that I need to get another allen wrench.....I'll just buy a complete set so there's none of that "not having the right size."

So I get the right allen wrench and I pry the faceplate off. I'm wondering how difficult that's going to be. I just hope it comes off without much effort....don't want to break a $200 toy without even installing it.

Maybe I'll just go ghetto and glue the black faceplate over the silver one


----------



## kpoeticg

You just need to get a few decent PC screwdrivers with multi-bits. Or just buy a driver-bit set from home depot & a black n decker electric driver. I had screwdrivers already that the had the bits for both sides of the aquaero.

I definitely wouldn't just pry it off without reading some1 else's experience first. I know it's something similar to that, but the info's right here on OCN. Just do a search and you're sure to find a pic guide of some1 else doing it in their build log


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You just need to get a few decent PC screwdrivers with multi-bits. Or just buy a driver-bit set from home depot & a black n decker electric driver. I had screwdrivers already that the had the bits for both sides of the aquaero.
> 
> I definitely wouldn't just pry it off without reading some1 else's experience first. I know it's something similar to that, but the info's right here on OCN. Just do a search and you're sure to find a pic guide of some1 else doing it in their build log


I can buy a PC tool kit at a Radio Shack....they shouldn't be that expensive.

I haven't found it yet on OCN but I did read a thread elsewhere that said that all you need to do is pry it up with something thin-bladed. Little by little.

Thanks for the heads up


----------



## skupples

I would love a black face plate for the XT. Might have to make it so.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> *I can buy a PC tool kit at a Radio Shack....they shouldn't be that expensive.*
> 
> I haven't found it yet on OCN but I did read a thread elsewhere that said that all you need to do is pry it up with something thin-bladed. Little by little.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up


It's always good to have a set of precision electronics screwdrivers cuz they have the long necks for hard to reach places in your pc.
I was referring more to these type of screwdrivers tho.


Or something like this


It's real convenient to have a bunch of bits in one spot instead of a ton of screwdrivers.

Also, i read the same thing about using a blade with the XT faceplate and going little by little. I was just making sure you weren't just gonna rip it off or something








Too much info on the internet to just have at it, there's pretty much always some1 that's done exactly what it is you're trying to figure out


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I can buy a PC tool kit at a Radio Shack....they shouldn't be that expensive.
> 
> I haven't found it yet on OCN but I did read a thread elsewhere that said that all you need to do is pry it up with something thin-bladed. Little by little.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up


It was in this thread that shoggy told how. I cant remember where but it is here.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It's always good to have a set of precision electronics screwdrivers cuz they have the long necks for hard to reach places in your pc.
> I was referring more to these type of screwdrivers tho.
> 
> 
> Or something like this
> 
> 
> It's real convenient to have a bunch of bits in one spot instead of a ton of screwdrivers.
> 
> Also, i read the same thing about using a blade with the XT faceplate and going little by little. I was just making sure you weren't just gonna rip it off or something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too much info on the internet to just have at it, there's pretty much always some1 that's done exactly what it is you're trying to figure out


Those are cool.....

How much do you think they'd cost??

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> It was in this thread that shoggy told how. I cant remember where but it is here.


Well I won't be able to go anywhere yet.. We have some fresh snow this morning(not sure how much yet) and I might be stuck here for a while.
If it's in this thread, I'll find it


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Those are cool.....
> 
> How much do you think they'd cost??


Hrmmm, I think i payed like 20ish for the Black & Decker Electric @ Home Depot. And probly about the same for the bit set in the pic with it.

The rest of those screwdrivers in the other pic weren't expensive. The 2 Husky's together make a good set, 1 of em has standard (philips/flathead) bits & the other has hex/allen bits. Probly like 4 bux a piece or something. That general tools screwdriver in the pic has alot of nice bits too, it was probly like 5-10 bux...

Everything in those 2 pics i posted was purchased at Lowe's and Home Depot.

If you're gonna get the electric Black & Decker tho, i recommend spending the extra 5-10 bux and getting the better one that has a trigger on it. The cheaper one that i have has to pressed at the top of it to make it spin, a standard trigger would be MUCH more convenient!!


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Hrmmm, I think i payed like 20ish for the Black & Decker Electric @ Home Depot. And probly about the same for the bit set in the pic with it.
> 
> The rest of those screwdrivers in the other pic weren't expensive. The 2 Husky's together make a good set, 1 of em has standard (philips/flathead) bits & the other has hex/allen bits. Probly like 4 bux a piece or something. That general tools screwdriver in the pic has alot of nice bits too, it was probly like 5-10 bux...
> 
> Everything in those 2 pics i posted was purchased at Lowe's and Home Depot.
> 
> If you're gonna get the electric Black & Decker tho, i recommend spending the extra 5-10 bux and getting the better one that has a trigger on it. The cheaper one that i have has to pressed at the top of it to make it spin, a standard trigger would be MUCH more convenient!!


I could always use some extra tools like that around the house. Once springtime rolls around, I have a few different garden projects I'm doing and those tools will come in handy.

Not only that but since I dropped close to 3,000 bucks on my rig parts, what's another couple of bucks for tools?


----------



## Train Wreck

Bingo....found it









Tells you how to remove and replace the faceplate on the XT

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/600#post_21201334

Now maybe I can fall back asleep


----------



## MeanBruce

I have a Black and Decker powerdriver for around the house it works great, but it seems way too imprecise for pc work, at least to me. Had way too many small screws drop deep into the dark recesses of my chassis never to be seen again so finally got one of these little magnetizers from a company in Germany called Wiha. Also invested in one quality driver that I use exclusively for pc assembly upgrades and mods only. It's a Wera Tools Kraftform Kompakt 1/4in bits driver (also made in Germany) with a rapid bit release and bayonet extension, also holds 6 bits in the handle.

The magnetizer works extremely well, when the driver tip and bits are fully charged (magnetized) you can pick up two dozen screws with the end, so no chance of a single screw dropping off while working on your rig.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4966_zps515dae3e.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4965_zps0eba3f15.jpg.html

Here's the Wiha magnetizer at Amazon, it's only $5.70, a great investment, looks like they changed the color since I got mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Magnetizer-Demagnetizer-WIHA-Brand/dp/B006KJSDQI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387289007&sr=8-1&keywords=wiha+magnetizer

Here's the Wera Tools page, if you love tools these are the best I've ever seen. I only have two Wera drivers and some diamond bits but considering a Wera Allen key set, since you guys brought it up.










I'm thinking someone like Seross69 with his amazing rig(s) and workshop, would appreciate this level of craftsmanship.

http://www-us.wera.de/home_us.html?&no_cache=1&L=1



The 818/4/1 in this video is the driver I got, it's awesome for pc work, pimped it out with 3 diamond gold bits Phillips 1, Phillips 2, and Phillips 3.













...


----------



## NYMD

Got this over the weekend at HD... much nicer than the allen key set I had before:



I might have to pick up a magnetizer; I haven't seen one since my IT days.


----------



## Train Wreck

All of these tools are awesome.

Too bad I'm stuck at the house again....we got snow again this morning


----------



## bern43

For those swapping out the faceplate on the XT it takes a bit more pressure than you'd expect because of the glue. It honestly was a bit nerve racking on my 5 XT. I used tiny pieces of double sided tape to stick the new front plate back on, per the advice of AQ.


----------



## MeanBruce

AquaComputing should have considered more than 50% of buyers would be swapping out the stainless steel faceplate for black, and made is a little easier on all of us.

They also should have included 4 black countersunk M3 screws with the black faceplate, in my humble opinion.

I'd rather have 4matching aesthetically pleasing black countersunk M3s than a package of Gummy Bears, and they probably cost the same.


----------



## VSG

Are black countersunk M3s available to buy separately other than in packs of 100 or more?


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> AquaComputing should have considered more than 50% of buyers would be swapping out the stainless steel faceplate for black, and made is a little easier on all of us.
> 
> They also should have included 4 black countersunk M3 screws with the black faceplate, in my humble opinion.
> 
> I'd rather have 4matching aesthetically pleasing black countersunk M3s than a package of Gummy Bears, and they probably cost the same.


If only they would've used the same screws for the front of the unit as they did in the back of it.

Also, include the black faceplate with the Aquaero and just charge a couple dollars more.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are black countersunk M3s available to buy separately other than in packs of 100 or more?


Group buy! Who here is volunteering to re-package and mail out 4 tiny screws 25 times??


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Group buy! Who here is volunteering to re-package and mail out 4 tiny screws 25 times??


LOL...count me in


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are black countersunk M3s available to buy separately other than in packs of 100 or more?


I found this site in the UK, they look amazing, we need to know the length of the threading 5.0mm? Selling them for about $4 each, Yikes. I'm still looking for a US site.









http://www.shop-apt.co.uk/shim-screws/1814-shim-screw-m45x07-55mm-long-25mm-allen.html

I already tried my local Ace Hardware and Lowes and Home Depot, they only have silver standard M3s.

...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I have a Black and Decker powerdriver for around the house it works great, but it seems way too imprecise for pc work, at least to me. Had way too many small screws drop deep into the dark recesses of my chassis never to be seen again so finally got one of these little magnetizers from a company in Germany called Wiha. Also invested in one quality driver that I use exclusively for pc assembly upgrades and mods only. It's a Wera Tools Kraftform Kompakt 1/4in bits driver (also made in Germany) with a rapid bit release and bayonet extension, also holds 6 bits in the handle.
> 
> The magnetizer works extremely well, when the driver tip and bits are fully charged (magnetized) you can pick up two dozen screws with the end, so no chance of a single screw dropping off while working on your rig.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4966_zps515dae3e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4965_zps0eba3f15.jpg.html
> 
> Here's the Wiha magnetizer at Amazon, it's only $5.70, a great investment, looks like they changed the color since I got mine.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Magnetizer-Demagnetizer-WIHA-Brand/dp/B006KJSDQI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387289007&sr=8-1&keywords=wiha+magnetizer
> 
> Here's the Wera Tools page, if you love tools these are the best I've ever seen. I only have two Wera drivers and some diamond bits but considering a Wera Allen key set, since you guys brought it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking someone like Seross69 with his amazing rig(s) and workshop, would appreciate this level of craftsmanship.
> 
> http://www-us.wera.de/home_us.html?&no_cache=1&L=1
> 
> 
> 
> The 818/4/1 in this video is the driver I got, it's awesome for pc work, pimped it out with 3 diamond gold bits Phillips 1, Phillips 2, and Phillips 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The WIha tools are amazing This is all I buy for work on PC any more since I found a place to buy them in the USA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I found this site in the UK, they look amazing, we need to know the length of the threading 5.0mm? Selling them for about $1 each. I'm still looking for a US site.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.shop-apt.co.uk/shim-screws/1814-shim-screw-m45x07-55mm-long-25mm-allen.html
> 
> I already tried my local Ace Hardware and Lowes and Home Depot, they only have silver standard M3s.
> 
> ...


Best to buy the from the UK they are real hard to find here that is where I got mine also go to ebay UK and find them there pretty cheap. If you PM me and remind you I can give you a real good seller from the UK.

Also try boltdepot.com


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The WIha tools are amazing This is all I buy for work on PC any more since I found a place to buy them in the USA.
> Best to buy the from the UK they are real hard to find here that is where I got mine also go to ebay UK and find them there pretty cheap. If you PM me and remind you I can give you a real good seller from the UK.
> 
> Also try boltdepot.com


Thank you Sir.









I'll have my A6 tomorrow and can measure the thread pattern then, but anyone know offhand how long the front screws threads are?

Here are the diamond coated Wera bits, it sounds expensive but they're only $4 each, Phillips #1, #2, #3 (Not certain any PC screw uses Phillips #3 way too large, I just got it to complete the set).









http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Diamond-Coated-Phillip-Insert/dp/B0001P1864/ref=pd_sim_indust_1

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/51HAiuATEaL_zpsaee8ddf6.jpg.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Thank you Sir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have my A6 tomorrow and can measure the thread pattern then, but anyone know offhand how long the front screws threads are?
> 
> Here are the diamond coated Wera bits, it sounds expensive but they're only $4 each, Phillips #1, #2, #3 (Not certain any PC screw uses Phillips #3 way too large, I just got it to complete the set).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Diamond-Coated-Phillip-Insert/dp/B0001P1864/ref=pd_sim_indust_1
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/51HAiuATEaL_zpsaee8ddf6.jpg.html


If you look in this thread Shoggy told the exact size they use. I think 5 or 6mm


----------



## MeanBruce

Just out of curiosity, attached one of the Wera diamond bits into the Black and Decker power driver and wow, perfect fit and now it's a much more precise instrument. The original bit that comes included wobbles out of control during operation, B&D must have very loose manufacturing tolerances for their machined parts.

Still won't use it on the PC though, nope new upgrades like the Aquaero 6 should be enjoyed and appreciated as part of this beautiful hobby, I wouldn't want to rush the process with a power driver.

I guess that's enough screwing around for one day, we now return to our regularly scheduled program already in progress.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4973_zps3f066f84.jpg.html


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Looks like party time tonight.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Looks like party time tonight.


Woohoo, hope you got plenty of Fosters Lager in the fridge bro.

And some chicken wings Franks RedHot sauce and General Tso's spicy take-out, all the ingredients for a beautiful build day. I always throw on Avatar or Star Wars Trilogy or some waycool Sci-Fi films in the background when I build, makes it awesome on a 46inch 120Hz Samsung Smart TV, the heck with grandma, I'm keeping this thing.









Congratulations 47Knucklehead.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Woohoo, hope you got plenty of Fosters Lager in the fridge bro.


I don't know about Fosters, but here is another picture of when I was doing some sleeving work on my Phantek case ...


----------



## Train Wreck

I was going crazy being stuck in the house so I decided to go out anyway. The roads were not bad at all. I got the last piece of the puzzle....the keyboard.

Oh and I also got an allan wrench set to replace the faceplate on my aquaero 6 xt. I don't know tools but it was an assortment pack that I got from Home Depot. The clearance price was 3 bucks. It was the smallest of the set...it was numbered 2(whatever that means)

Anyway, I quickly removed the screws holding in the faceplate. The brackets fell off easily. and all I had to do was carefully pull off the faceplate assembly/touchscreen part from the body of the aquaero. They were connected with pins....whatever they're called.

And all I did was carefully slide a razor blade between the faceplate and the touchscreen part....just little by little all the way around and poof...it easily separated. There was enough adhesive that I didn't have to use double sided tape like someone suggested to me.

Also, if you're afraid to remove the silver faceplate, you may be able to just take the screws out, put the black faceplate on top, and screw it on.....the screws seem to be long enough.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> I was going crazy being stuck in the house so I decided to go out anyway. The roads were not bad at all. I got the last piece of the puzzle....the keyboard.
> 
> Oh and I also got an allan wrench set to replace the faceplate on my aquaero 6 xt. I don't know tools but it was an assortment pack that I got from Home Depot. The clearance price was 3 bucks. It was the smallest of the set...it was numbered 2(whatever that means)
> 
> Anyway, I quickly removed the screws holding in the faceplate. The brackets fell off easily. and all I had to do was carefully pull off the faceplate assembly/touchscreen part from the body of the aquaero. They were connected with pins....whatever they're called.
> 
> And all I did was carefully slide a razor blade between the faceplate and the touchscreen part....just little by little all the way around and poof...it easily separated. There was enough adhesive that I didn't have to use double sided tape like someone suggested to me.
> 
> Also, if you're afraid to remove the silver faceplate, you may be able to just take the screws out, put the black faceplate on top, and screw it on.....the screws seem to be long enough.


That's reassuring, getting my A6 tomorrow can't wait wanted one for 3months now WOW has it been that long? Yep when we first met Shoggy back in September, finally the day has arrived, almost.

Is the new remote control with the XT have the new white crop circles or the old green?

I sent the Aquaero 6 photos to an IT friend of mine that works at Harris Corporation and he said many server and server devices are all black with a single silver or shiny stainless steel control panel, so he doesn't quite understand why I/We are all wanting the black faceplates.









...


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That's reassuring, getting my A6 tomorrow can't wait wanted one for 3months now WOW has it been that long? Yep when we first met Shoggy back in September, finally the day has arrived, almost.
> 
> Is the new remote control with the XT have the new white crop circles or the old green?


Mine has the white circles.

Let us know how you make out with replacing the faceplate


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Mine has the white circles.
> 
> Let us know how you make out with replacing the faceplate


I'm planning on using a dull razor blade so as not to repeat my delidding CPU crime scene fiasco.

Don't slice into the PCB Bruce.

I won't, I'm a surgeon.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm planning on using a dull razor blade so as not to repeat my delidding CPU crime scene fiasco.
> 
> Don't slice into the PCB Bruce.
> 
> I won't, I'm a surgeon.


Slicing up your CPU??









LOL... I was afraid of slicing something that shouldn't be sliced. I can only hope that I didn't screw anything up.

I guess if the screen did get screwed up, I can still use it and rely on only the software.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Does anyone know what the mating connector (preferably in the US and in black) for the Aquacomputer "High Flow" sensor (P/N 53068) can be gotten?

A link would be great if you have one. I'd really rather build and sleeve my own cable anyway.


----------



## Train Wreck

Is this it??

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=33380


----------



## skupples

Anyone know if the XT can be used to power up a system? Would love to rip the face plate out of my 900D to get rid of 90% of the cables I would never use.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone know if the XT can be used to power up a system? Would love to rip the face plate out of my 900D to get rid of 90% of the cables I would never use.


You mean turn on the power supply of the computer when it's off?

I don't see how that would be possible as the XT needs power to operate ... short of having a separate DC power supply for the AQ6 that is always on.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone know if the XT can be used to power up a system? Would love to rip the face plate out of my 900D to get rid of 90% of the cables I would never use.


I don't see why the A6 couldn't be used as a simple switch. It will have power when the PSU is on. Would have to connect it to the two mobo header pins somehow that's all.

I'd love to turn on my rig with the A6 remote control.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Does anyone know what the mating connector (preferably in the US and in black) for the Aquacomputer "High Flow" sensor (P/N 53068) can be gotten?
> 
> A link would be great if you have one. I'd really rather build and sleeve my own cable anyway.


I never found them and it was easier to just buy them and mod them to suit my purposes..


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I never found them and it was easier to just buy them and mod them to suit my purposes..


I was hoping someone wouldn't say that.

Oh well, I guess it gives me an excuse to order the black bezel for my AQ6 XT now too ... since I have to place an order for the cable.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Does anyone know what the mating connector (preferably in the US and in black) for the Aquacomputer "High Flow" sensor (P/N 53068) can be gotten?
> 
> A link would be great if you have one. I'd really rather build and sleeve my own cable anyway.


Between the proprietary connector and the pins its would be best to just get the cable(not sure if you could even get them seperate). The connector itself is very easy to remove, as I have sleeved mine with heatshrinkless paracord. Then ran the three sleeved wires into a single sleeve once it got out of view to make it easier and cleaner. Plus I made all the connectors into my LT 5 unit sleeved with heatshrink over the connector as well. Made for a great finish.

EDIT: Ninja'd


----------



## skupples

do want. Knuckle, you should order two.


----------



## kpoeticg

If i had to take a wild guess, my guess would be maybe the Molex Mini Fit Sr family?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Aquacomputer flow meter cable 3-pin - $3.95
Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black (New Version) - $11.95
Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4 - $10.99 (the wires on my Phobya broke when I was handling it.







)
USB Internal Female Header to USB "A" Cable - $9.95

Oh well, maybe it'll all be here by Friday.


----------



## kpoeticg

If some1 knows how to measure the pitch between the pins, i'm pretty sure i got it boiled down pretty close on Digikey

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?FV=fff40016%2Cfff802fc%2C70004a%2C7c0039%2C11400b9%2C1600005%2C1680001%2C800000f&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=-89&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=100

These are all 3.96mm pitch







I know ATX Pins are 4.20mm Pitch, so i gotta be in the neighborhood. If you click that link, and display 100 per page, those 3 are in like the bottom 6 connectors

Actually, I sorted the pins by Pitch Descending, then 100 per page.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Aquacomputer flow meter cable 3-pin - $3.95
> Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black (New Version) - $11.95
> Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4 - $10.99 (the wires on my Phobya broke when I was handling it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> USB Internal Female Header to USB "A" Cable - $9.95
> 
> Oh well, maybe it'll all be here by Friday.


What's the USB cable for?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What's the USB cable for?


Grins. I always seem to need one for here or there.

LED light control, projects at work, and I plan on setting up the loop on my Phantek case, and control it from my working computer via the external USB port. I keep forgetting to order one, and I always seem to need one.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4 - $10.99 (the wires on my Phobya broke when I was handling it.
























http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/71160_02_zps24794057.jpg.html












































Temperature Sensors, CPU Block Delta T


----------



## skupples

so I found an RGB strip of LED's @ PPC, but it doesn't have an adapter, do I just hook up a PWM head to the 4 wires?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Train Wreck

I'm not exactly sure but it looks like you'd have to use a DIY adapter. They're on performance pcs too


----------



## skupples

I'll just stop shopping while dead tired. I'm sure I can find a proper pre-assembled RGB strip that will be compatible with the unit. Got my face plate ordered... gotta love having PPC in the back yard, 5$ 1 day shipping ftw.

The big secret is that I still have no idea where it's going to go in my case. It's probably going to end up sitting on the mid-plate for a few weeks.


----------



## kpoeticg

IIRC the Phobya Flexlight strips work off the RGB header on the Aquaero 5. So if that's the route you're gonna take, i'd probly grab the Phobya's. I'm not sure what the amp rating is of the RGB header

Also

THESE 

THESE

& THESE 

are useful for connecting LED Strips.


----------



## MeanBruce

It's 640am on the east coast and this is Day Aquaero.









Have 12 of the nickel plated AC faceplate screws just sitting around from a black Poweradjust module faceplate ordered from FrozenCPU and won't be needing so thinking just for now giving 4 of those a top sanding and a coat of matte or satin black paint, until I can locate some improved M3 countersinks in black from the UK.

Or could mount this PowerAdjust faceplate with 3 red dummy LEDs under the A6 just for appearances, but then that sort of struggles with the entire concept of minimalism.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_2976_zps11fc26a9.jpg.html

See a lot of enthusiasts using these M3 shim screws with their Aquaeros in photos, which protrude from the panel surface about 4mm, I'll PM Mr. Seross69 and find out his info for these gorgeous screws.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/untitled_zps576b7b2d.png.html


----------



## MeanBruce

Do you have to cut open the Aquaero box or is it an intricate paper puzzle?









No Gummy Bears in my box.









...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Do you have to cut open the Aquaero box or is it an intricate paper puzzle?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Gummy Bears in my box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


There's two clear stickers (on short side) to cut or carefully peel, and then there's one paper puzzle bit on the long side.

Gummy bears is an Aquatuning thing, not Aquacomputer thing


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm in the AC A6 manual and how do I turn the fans down from 12volts? It doesn't say keyboard software front panel remote control nothing will lower the volts.


----------



## kpoeticg

You should setup all your controls from aquasuite.

The keyboards just an accessory for convenience. Aquasuite should definitely be the first thing you deal with.


----------



## MeanBruce

Ok Aquasuite is fully installed USB connected properly via the ASUS diagrammatic. Inside Aquasuite there's a large demo, I just want to turn down two fans that's all for now.


----------



## MeanBruce

Updating my AC firmware to 1034.

The A6 just gave out a loud shreek ahhhhh

you mean I have to set up a data log thermal profile just to turn down the volts? Are weeez nuts here AC?









I pulled all fans except the radiator h100s soooo loud cannot think, I've tried every button on the front and remote nothing in the software except setups, just trying to decrease volts on one channel from 12.

My pc has never been this loud ever. its crazy

...


----------



## kpoeticg

There's a million fan controllers that work with knobs and levers. And they're all much cheaper than the Aquaero

The Aquaero's more like a computer to manage your cooling.

There's is absolutely no reason to buy an aquaero if you don't plan on setting up aquasuite


----------



## MeanBruce

Whoops sorry for the emergency, you have to upgrade the firmware immediately for any functionality in Windows 8.1 Pro, The entire AquaSuite opens up fully after you upgrade the firmware, otherwise its a brick device.

Now everything is working normally after a reboot, sorry for the distress, hope others using Windows 8.1 will find this message.

so ashamed, dragging my feet.


----------



## skupples

I'm only using it as a glorified pwm pump controller for the time being, though it will be with me for many years through much more complicated builds.


----------



## HG02

Hi Guys
I need confirmation on my Aquareo 6 XT set up in a case labs S3 I'm running 4 top rad fans 2 push and two pull and front rad has two push . Ive connected these to fan 1 on the Aquareo
I am using a swift tech MCP35 X and have plugged the 12 volt lead into my PSU leaving the pwn leads running up to the Aquareo 6 XT . I have read you can run the pump pwn leads to a fan pin out and control the pump off a fan graph
Also have a high flow meter 53068 connected to the flow three pin on the Aquareo 6 and have two water temp sensors set up one at the coolest end of the loop and the other the return from the hottest end of the loop the other temp sensors ill add two to the radiators an some on the mobo..
Also wondered about the 2 PWN on the Aquareo the Manual is not really very informative enough for me I'm afraid could some one explain the PWN features . The other question RPM on the Aquareo can I run a lead to the mother board CPU fan pin to the RP pin on the Aquareo ?
Could some one confirm this is ok please








 









Oh one other thing I wanted to confirm the RGB LED I have connected to the XSPC Photon reservoir to light up the res (one LED only) is this 5 volt out let?


----------



## kpoeticg

HG02, yes to everything you said. Just make sure to specify PWM for that channel in aquasuite


----------



## MeanBruce

I had to install a Lamptron controller hanging from the cables just to get my fans to spin while I try figure out what the hell is going on. The Aquaero 6 will not move my fans at all, went from full 12v full spin to perfect adjustability, then a reboot, thought I was ok now nothing works.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4998_zpsa0959246.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Sounds like you just gotta set everything up in aquasuite. I haven't hooked my aquaero up yet so i can't really help with aquasuite


----------



## MeanBruce

I just cannot believe there's no simple way to turn down the voltage on the effing fans. Four control methods zero results.

Plan B

power up both fan controllers with a 2ndary molex cable so the CPU does not deep fry while working with the AquaComputer AquaSuite software finding a solution to the Aquaero 6 zero voltage output issue.

Plan C

return the Aquaero 6 and forget AquaComputers as a viable micromarket supplier

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5003_zps8d54542d.jpg.html


----------



## HG02

Thanks Kpoeticg








I though this might work to get every thing up and running
1 Disconnect the power and mobo USB from the Aquareo unit
2 Power up the PC and down load aqua suit install aqua suit and do a basic config
3 Power off plug Aquareo back in and power up and re config
4 check firmware for updates

Once this works out do some lighting as the Bitfenix Alchemy LED Strips are 12 volt can some one confirm this could connect to a fan pin out on the Aquareo 6 XT was thinking of running two 30cm and also have a Bitspower dual 30cm cold cathode but thought Id run this with a relay and use one of the Aquareo 6 fan pins out to switch it on and run 12 volt from the PSU to the cathode unit from the PSU
I think this should work ok


----------



## HG02

check this link out it may help mean bruce or buy a slab of Beer and chill








Hey Bruce when you wired up the fans you only need one fan to read the RPM signal is your fan wire connections ok what I mean is a fan splitter lead should have only one fan conected to the RPM signal perhaps your leads might have more than one fan lead connected to the signal wire







I checked mine last night to make sure a two into one fan lead should have only one speed signal wire connected other wise I think the fans will run full speed worth checking


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I just cannot believe there's no simple way to turn down the voltage on the effing fans. Four control methods zero
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> results.
> 
> Plan B
> 
> power up both fan controllers with a 2ndary molex cable so the CPU does not deep fry while working with the AquaComputer AquaSuite software finding a solution to the Aquaero 6 zero voltage output issue.
> 
> Plan C
> 
> return the Aquaero 6 and forget AquaComputers as a viable micromarket supplier
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5003_zps8d54542d.jpg.html


You have me worried I may experience the same issues with my non-PWM Typhoons.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You have me worried I may experience the same issues with my non-PWM Typhoons.


My very non-pwm standard basic voltage driven Sanyo fans are not happy at all. They are crying out for simple power and current. Oh no, you must first set up your likes, and your dislikes, your mood your present attitude towards us, the time of day and please tell us when you take your tea.

WTH?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I just cannot believe there's no simple way to turn down the voltage on the effing fans. Four control methods zero results.
> 
> Plan B
> 
> power up both fan controllers with a 2ndary molex cable so the CPU does not deep fry while working with the AquaComputer AquaSuite software finding a solution to the Aquaero 6 zero voltage output issue.
> 
> Plan C
> 
> return the Aquaero 6 and forget AquaComputers as a viable micromarket supplier
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bruce, you need to chill out a bit. The Aquaero's so popular because Aquacomputer is an EXTREMELY reputable company. They're products are top quality, so i wouldn't go to that extreme. The Aquaero isn't meant to be a simple unit. It's the opposite.

If you're doing it right, it should take you at least a few days to get everything setup how you want it. Then you'll never have to touch it again if you don't want.

Take some time and troubleshoot your issue. You'll figure it out. Just remember that Aquasuite is the brain of the aquaero.

Also, if you're running those San Ace PWM fans you posted a cpl months or weeks ago, that could be the issue.

If they're PWM, you need to make sure the fans are being powered from your PSU with the RPM & PWM (3rd & 4th) wires connected to the fan header. Then you need to specify in Aquasuite to use PWM control for that channel(s).

If you're Voltage Controlling San Ace's, you need to break out a calculator and figure out how many amps you're trying to pull off each channel. Each header can handle 2.5A MAX.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Thanks Kpoeticg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I though this might work to get every thing up and running
> 1 Disconnect the power and mobo USB from the Aquareo unit
> 2 Power up the PC and down load aqua suit install aqua suit and do a basic config
> 3 Power off plug Aquareo back in and power up and re config
> 4 check firmware for updates
> 
> Once this works out do some lighting as the Bitfenix Alchemy LED Strips are 12 volt can some one confirm this could connect to a fan pin out on the Aquareo 6 XT was thinking of running two 30cm and also have a Bitspower dual 30cm cold cathode but thought Id run this with a relay and use one of the Aquareo 6 fan pins out to switch it on and run 12 volt from the PSU to the cathode unit from the PSU
> I think this should work ok


Keep in mind, the Aquaero has the 4Pin RGB Header, 3Pin/3Pol Relay, and 2x2Pin PWM LED Headers. You really shouldn't have to sacrifice a fan header to LED's. I'm fairly certain the Phobya Flex-Light strips work directly off the RGB Header. You should always keep an eye on the amps your planning on using, but you should be able to handle all of it without using fan headers. I'd recommend the Phobya LED's tho just because i've seen it talked about with the Aquaero 5 in the past

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> You have me worried I may experience the same issues with my non-PWM Typhoons.


The Aquaero 6 has the option of PWM OR Voltage Control. You just have to tell it which to use. The Aquaero's just a computer. It can't do what you don't tell it to. You'll be fine with your GT's.

Edit:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My very non-pwm standard basic voltage driven Sanyo fans are not happy at all. They are crying out for simple power and current. Oh no, you must first set up your likes, and your dislikes, your mood your present attitude towards us, the time of day and please tell us when you take your tea.
> 
> WTH?


San Ace's are ANYTHING BUT STANDARD. Tell me which model they are.

Bruce, you need to keep in mind, all those things you're listing as negatives are the reason that people buy the Aquaero.


----------



## HG02

Phobya LED Flexlight RGB Controller with IR Remote might have a look at one of these bad boys see If I can some how configure it into Aquareo remote








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14108/lit-294/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_RGB_Controller_With_IR-Remote_83156.html


----------



## MeanBruce

The Sanyos are only 130milliamps each so I'm not maxing out any one 30watt channel.

I just cannot believe the AC set-up guide, it's not a set-up at all is a descriptive and that's all. It describes what each function of the A6 is capable of, ok fine good, now how do I set it up software first? front panel first? regional thermal profiles first? WHAT?

The only way I'm able to post right now is a back up fan controller. AAAHHH ok breathe deep slowly slowly open mind embrace the future.









...


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Phobya LED Flexlight RGB Controller with IR Remote might have a look at one of these bad boys see If I can some how configure it into Aquareo remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14108/lit-294/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_RGB_Controller_With_IR-Remote_83156.html


You'd use the Aquaero as the remote instead of the RGB Controller. So you'd just buy the RGB strip and not the controller. I'll try to find where i read about that b4 you pull the trigger on the order









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The Sanyos are only 130milliamps each so I'm not maxing out any one 30watt channel.
> 
> I just cannot believe the AC set-up guide, it's not a set-up at all is a descriptive and that's all. It describes what each function of the A6 is capable of, ok fine good, now how do I set it up software first? front panel first? regional thermal profiles first? WHAT?


The Aquaero instructions just tell you how to set it up in your rig and what to plug in where basically. You need to read the Aquasuite manual. THIS guide might help you out.

Also, what model San Ace's are they? 130mA seems light for San Ace (I could be wrong about that, i'm just going off memory)

The problem could also be the startup voltage for your fans. That also needs to be setup in Aquasuite. Different fans have different minimum voltages they can run at


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The Sanyos are only 130milliamps each so I'm not maxing out any one 30watt channel.
> 
> I just cannot believe the AC set-up guide, it's not a set-up at all is a descriptive and that's all. It describes what each function of the A6 is capable of, ok fine good, now how do I set it up software first? front panel first? regional thermal profiles first? WHAT?
> 
> The only way I'm able to post right now is a back up fan controller. AAAHHH ok breathe deep slowly slowly open mind embrace the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's not that hard. Just go to fans> Control by RPM> and turn them down.


----------



## Train Wreck

ok....this is going to sound very noob-like but here it goes....

How does the Aquaero get mounted in the HAF XB? I put it in one of the bays, close the lock at the side, and nothing.....the aquaero isn't locked in


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that's a common issue with the XB. IF you line it up right, the locking pin will go into one side of the bay mount, but the other side has no support. You need to either use something like Velcro, Mounting Tape (best is Scotch 3M 4010), or screw it in. Only on the inner side of the drive cage. The side with the lever will lock with the pins


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> ok....this is going to sound very noob-like but here it goes....
> 
> How does the Aquaero get mounted in the HAF XB? I put it in one of the bays, close the lock at the side, and nothing.....the aquaero isn't locked in


@ least if fits into your bay's! 900D face is 1-2mm too skinny.


----------



## HG02

What worries me is there is no information of out puts amps or voltages or watts that I can find for the RGB I have always preferred to power every thing via the PSU and control from a control unit in this case the Aquareo 6 XT which to me makes sense removing excess voltage and amps from the controller
As far as the fans are concerned I have 7 noise blocker 6 120 eloops on the rads and a 140 exhausting out the back of the PC and would prefer at least rads fans connected to one fan controller pin out making it easy to reduce fan speed perhaps the rear exhaust fan might be better on its own circuit ( high rpm ) So in this build I have two spare fan controller pin outs . I think I am not sure the RGB is 5 volts this I was going to use with one 5mm LED in the XSPC photon reservoir as Ive read some where the RGB is recommended for one LED only ( Aqua computer I think off there forum) I can never Login to that forum I do not know why but never can














(Maybe they don't like Aussies Ha Ha







)
and then use the left over fan pin outs for lighting as these seem to be able handle heaps power
I guess working for Caterpillar and using there schematics on the network has spoiled me a little


----------



## VSG

Wait, what? The AQ6 doesn't fit into the 900D?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It's not that hard. Just go to fans> Control by RPM> and turn them down.


booting now with the A6 controlling two fan channels no spin and the lamptron cooling the single channel h100, attempting to diagnose within the software.

Even if this is a Windows 8.1 issue, there is no reason the touch control or the remote cannot dial down the voltage at installation. Is There?


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that's a common issue with the XB. IF you line it up right, the locking pin will go into one side of the bay mount, but the other side has no support. You need to either use something like Velcro, Mounting Tape (best is Scotch 3M 4010), or screw it in. Only on the inner side of the drive cage. The side with the lever will lock with the pins


Word of caution to anybody replacing the faceplate on their Aquaero,,,,

Make sure you put those brackets on the sides that they came from. When I did mine last night, I mistakenly flipped them when putting it back together









I'm sure that'll help with mounting the unit LOL

Thanks Kpoeticg...I'll use one screw on the other side.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *HG02* 

What worries me is there is no information of out puts amps or voltages or watts that I can find for the RGB
I have always preferred to power every thing via the PSU and control from a control unit in this case the Aquareo 6 XT which to me makes sense removing excess voltage and amps from the controller

As far as the fans are concerned I have 7 noise blocker 6 120 eloops on the rads and a 140 exhausting out the back of the PC and would prefer at least rads fans connected to one fan controller pin out making it easy to reduce fan speed perhaps the rear exhaust fan might be better on its own circuit ( high rpm )


> So in this build I have two spare fan controller pin outs . I think I am not sure the RGB is 5 volts this I was going to use with one 5mm LED in the XSPC photon reservoir as Ive read some where the RGB is recommended for one LED only ( Aqua computer I think off there forum) I can never Login to that forum I do not know why but never can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Maybe they don't like Aussies Ha Ha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> and then use the left over fan pin outs for lighting as these seem to be able handle heaps power


OK first of all, punctuation marks are your friend









It's very hard to help when i have to focus 10x harder to read your post.









Ok, fixed the quote for now. Im gonna read again and come back and edit

Edit =) :

The problem with RGB is that the way it makes colors is by connecting the ground with the voltage to the specific colors. So you can't change RGB colors from anything except its power source.

The Aquaero has 2 x 2Pin PWM headers that are meant for PWM'ing LED's. They're only 15kHz so not meant for fans. If you have single color LED's, you could PWM them with those headers.

I'm also not sure of the voltage specs of the RGB header. That's why i've only recommended the Phobya Flexlights cuz i've seen a discussion on here before that the Flex-Lights are compatible with it. Without the specs, i can't recommend anything else.

EDIT: Ok the only info i can find about the flexlights is single color versions running of the 2Pin PWM headers. So scratch what i said about the RGB header. I'm not sure if there's a way to control an RGB strip off the Aquaero other than getting a Multiswitch as a slave device.

I know the Relay and 2Pin PWM headers can handle 1A @ 12V, so as long as you stick to that you should be fine with those.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Word of caution to anybody replacing the faceplate on their Aquaero,,,,
> 
> Make sure you put those brackets on the sides that they came from. When I did mine last night, I mistakenly flipped them when putting it back together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure that'll help with mounting the unit LOL
> 
> Thanks Kpoeticg...I'll use one screw on the other side.


The front faceplate replacement was so simple, the screws were easy to remove with an Allen 2.0mm and I used a kitchen paring vegetable knife on the corners, lifted right off with enough available adhesive still remaining, I wish everything else had gone so smooth. It's been a nightmare since powering up.


----------



## Train Wreck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @ least if fits into your bay's! 900D face is 1-2mm too skinny.


Well that would just suck.

Right now I'm trying to figure out how in the heck to get a screw AND screwdriver in there to fasten down the right side of the Aquaero.

Wow.......do I suck with tools and figuring stuff out LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The front faceplate replacement was so simple, the screws were easy to remove with an Allen 2.0mm and I used a kitchen paring vegetable knife on the corners, lifted right off with enough available adhesive still remaining, I wish everything else had gone so smooth. It's been a nightmare since powering up.


I was surprised how simple it was. I just hope I didn't mess around too much with the pcb

EDIT....

looks like I'll have to use mounting tape. There seems to be no way to get a screw in there....no screw holes


----------



## kpoeticg

EDIT: *Ok the only info i can find about the flexlights is single color versions running of the 2Pin PWM headers. So scratch what i said about the RGB header.* I'm not sure if there's a way to control an RGB strip off the Aquaero other than getting a Multiswitch as a slave device.

I know the Relay and 2Pin PWM headers can handle 1A @ 12V, so as long as you stick to that you should be fine with those.

Sorry for the dbl post/bold/underline. Don't want my advice to ruin somebody's RGB Header


----------



## MeanBruce

I apologize for being so negative, the faceplate replacement was very simple went so smooth and the Aquaero 6 is so beautiful, if I could only get my fans to work I wouldn't be so freaking worried.









Here's my silver front out of the box, and my black faceplate just a few minutes later it was so easy to replace. Please God make this whole thing work out. I pray...

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4985_zps7ac0cf18.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4986_zpsfc8d9f35.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4991_zps8d553cdc.jpg.html


----------



## Train Wreck

Do they sell mounting tape at Home Depot or Lowes??


----------



## HG02

Kpoeticg
So buy a two pin plug and run my One 5mm reservoir LED off the the PWN socket pin one equal power on those from reading the manual







thanks Kpoeticg
This is what is available down under Phobya LED Flexlight High Density 30cm Red wanted to run two of these strips maybe three

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1354_1356&products_id=24034&zenid=afc5a8be906ede4092f2ae9047b1331e
I carefully removed my face plate with my finger nail Mean Bruce


----------



## VSG

So anyone found black replacement screws for the faceplate yet? I might just go ahead and use spray paint if nothing else shows up.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Do they sell mounting tape at Home Depot or Lowes??


Yeah. They sell all kinds of mounting tape and velcro. I get most of that stuff at the depot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Kpoeticg
> So buy a two pin plug and run my One 5mm reservoir LED off the the PWN socket pin one equal power on those from reading the manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks Kpoeticg
> This is what is available down under Phobya LED Flexlight High Density 30cm Red wanted to run two of these strips maybe three
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1354_1356&products_id=24034&zenid=afc5a8be906ede4092f2ae9047b1331e
> I carefully removed my face plate with my finger nail Mean Bruce


If your res LED is RGB, you need to run it off the 4Pin RGB header. That's the only way to get RGB.

RGB LED has 4 contacts; +V Red, +V Green, +V Blue, Ground. It changes colors by connecting the ground with different voltage amounts of the other contacts

As far as the other LED strips, just BE SURE to keep each 2Pin PWM Header under 1A. The flexlights come in different lengths. So check the specs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So anyone found black replacement screws for the faceplate yet? I might just go ahead and use spray paint if nothing else shows up.


 The screws are M3. Shouldn't be hard to find replacements


----------



## HG02

Kpoeticg
I might buy that Phobya LED Flexlight RGB Controller with IR Remote use it till I can find more info just set it up so its easily removed later Ill use it some where later on









I have the Aqua computer RGB illumination modal 34930 5 mm led with a four pin connector its long enough to reach the XSPC Reservoir
5mm led hole I have no idea what color LED it is but its made for the Aquareo 6 so Ill fit that for now cant stuff it up with that. Its made for it


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The screws are M3. Shouldn't be hard to find replacements


Ya, but I haven't seen any countersunk black M3's in the usual spots. I got a Grainger branch nearby- might head over and check.

Edit: lol turns out I got 2 Grainger stores nearby, so if they don't have any I am out of luck.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Kpoeticg
> I might buy that Phobya LED Flexlight RGB Controller with IR Remote use it till I can find more info just set it up so its easily removed later Ill use it some where later on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Aqua computer RGB illumination modal 34930 5 mm led with a four pin connector its long enough to reach the XSPC Reservoir
> 5mm led hole I have no idea what color LED it is but its made for the Aquareo 6 so Ill fit that for now cant stuff it up with that. Its made for it


Go for it







There's alot of good SMD 5050 RGB strips on amazon too. There's also a ton of great RGB controllers on amazon if you wanted something you can mount in your rig. You just gotta search. But then again, there's always the AC Multiswitch too....

It's an RGB LED







That's why it has 4 wires. You need to hook it up to the RGB header.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, but I haven't seen any countersunk black M3's in the usual spots. I got a Grainger branch nearby- might head over and check.
> 
> Edit: lol turns out I got 2 Grainger stores nearby, so if they don't have any I am out of luck.


Check out places like FrozenCPU/PerformancePCs/MNPCTech


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well that would just suck.
> 
> Right now I'm trying to figure out how in the heck to get a screw AND screwdriver in there to fasten down the right side of the Aquaero.
> 
> Wow.......do I suck with tools and figuring stuff out LOL
> I was surprised how simple it was. I just hope I didn't mess around too much with the pcb
> 
> EDIT....
> 
> looks like I'll have to use mounting tape. There seems to be no way to get a screw in there....no screw holes


hehe, I can't even properly secure my bay res due to it's design + 900D bay design. It's basically floating on the slots + fittings.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, but I haven't seen any countersunk black M3's in the usual spots. I got a Grainger branch nearby- might head over and check.
> 
> Edit: lol turns out I got 2 Grainger stores nearby, so if they don't have any I am out of luck.


Here http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_flat_head_Class_12.9_steel_black_oil_finish.aspx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Right now I'm trying to figure out how in the heck to get a screw AND screwdriver in there to fasten down the right side of the Aquaero.
> 
> Wow.......do I suck with tools and figuring stuff out LOL


Yeah i wasn't really thinking when i mentioned that. I've already modded my bays and am changing all the rivets in the chassis anyway. You'd definitely have to drill out & replace a cpl rivets to drill a screw hole there tho.

Velcro and Scotch 3M 4010 will both work great. They sell the industrial velcro at home depot too.


----------



## MeanBruce

What a washout group.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> What a washout group.


use old fan controller for now and set the AQ6 up with the usb connected to it and learn how to use it. then slowly hook the fans to it once you understand more about it. be sure and shut down before you hook anything to it bruce..

calm down take a chill pill and relax...

if you do what i said make sure everything but fans are connected and then set up the fans in aquasuite how you want them.
shut down hook a set of fans up and then restart and try it.
but first play with it and get a understanding of how it works and what you want to do with it..


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> use old fan controller for now and set the AQ6 up with the usb connected to it and learn how to use it. then slowly hook the fans to it once you understand more about it. be sure and shut down before you hook anything to it bruce..
> 
> calm down take a chill pill and relax...
> 
> if you do what i said make sure everything but fans are connected and then set up the fans in aquasuite how you want them.
> shut down hook a set of fans up and then restart and try it.
> but first play with it and get a understanding of how it works and what you want to do with it..


Thank you Sir, you are the only true quality I would take with me.

After all my God, I'm dangling here.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4999_zps6965d99e.jpg.html


----------



## IT Diva

Didn't I read in here that for W8, or particularly 8.1, the very first thing you need to do is update the firmware or nothing will work?

D.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Didn't I read in here that for W8, or particularly 8.1, the very first thing you need to do is update the firmware or nothing will work?
> 
> D.


That's why I love this woman. (embarrassed)


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

My suggestion for fasteners is .... http://www.fastenal.com

You can order online and in small quantities.

M3-0.5 x 4mm CL 12.9 DIN 912 Black Oxide Socket Head Cap Screw



4 of them are $0.88

I order from them all the time. Their quality is awesome.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think he was looking for countersunks.

+1 for the link tho. That site looks incredible. Definitely going into my bookmarks =)


----------



## MeanBruce

My dysfunctional Aquaero 6 needs some emotional healing.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4996_zpsb61edab0.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Here http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_flat_head_Class_12.9_steel_black_oil_finish.aspx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> My suggestion for fasteners is .... http://www.fastenal.com
> 
> You can order online and in small quantities.
> 
> M3-0.5 x 4mm CL 12.9 DIN 912 Black Oxide Socket Head Cap Screw
> 
> 
> 
> 4 of them are $0.88
> 
> I order from them all the time. Their quality is awesome.


Thanks a lot, guys. I don't have my AQ6 yet so can someone please tell me the dimensions of the screws at the front?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think he was looking for countersunks.
> +1 for the link tho. That site looks incredible. Definitely going into my bookmarks =)


I've used these in 6/32 for certain builds. The also come in black M3's of various lengths.

M3-0.50 x 5mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw


----------



## MeanBruce

Alina says hello and thank you to everyone.

Shoggy leaves the thread at the most opportune moment. exit stage left.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *geggeg* 

Thanks a lot, guys. I don't have my AQ6 yet so can someone please tell me the dimensions of the screws at the front?


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I've used these in 6/32 for certain builds. The also come in black M3's of various lengths.
> 
> M3-0.50 x 5mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw
Click to expand...

^^Those r the right size geggeg in case you didn't realize


----------



## mav2000

Shoggy, quick question for you. If 90%+ of builds using the aquaero are black on the outside, why do you still insist on selling it with the silver plate on the front and sell the black plate separately?

I recently bought my first aqua computer product and I must say it has quality written all over it. And I will now continue to purchase stuff from your brand.

But this is something that I just can't understand. Even Xspc package a black and silver face plate for their bay reservoirs in the main product.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> ^^Those r the right size geggeg in case you didn't realize


Ya I figured as much, thanks


----------



## skupples

I haven't seen shoggy post since right around launch.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> Shoggy, quick question for you. If 90%+ of builds using the aquaero are black on the outside, why do you still insist on selling it with the silver plate on the front and sell the black plate separately?
> 
> I recently bought my first aqua computer product and I must say it has quality written all over it. And I will now continue to purchase stuff from your brand.
> 
> But this is something that I just can't understand. Even Xspc package a black and silver face plate for their bay reservoirs in the main product.


AC has top quality products, but they're not exactly known for their free accessories









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I haven't seen shoggy post since right around launch.


Yeah, this is probly the longest he's been silent since this thread started. Whenever people PM me with questions about the Aquaero that i don't know the answer, i tell them to ask in the thread and shoggy will definitely answer in the next cpl days. His mysterious disappearance is making a liar out of me =\


----------



## LCRava

Hi guys,

I am a total noob when it comes to the Aquaero. I would like to ask a couple of questions and I will appreciate any help.









1. Has anyone successfully utilized the Swiftech PWM splitter ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html ) with the Aquaero 6 and was able to properly control fan speed?

2. What would be the correct way of connecting 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps with Aquabus ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html ) to the Aquaero 6?

3. Is the Aquabus 4 pin Y splitter cable ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19439/bus-345/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Y_Splitter_Cable_53124.html ) just a 4 pin PWM cable or is it proprietary?

Thank you much in advance


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I am a total noob when it comes to the Aquaero. I would like to ask a couple of questions and I will appreciate any help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Has anyone successfully utilized the Swiftech PWM splitter ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html ) with the Aquaero 6 and was able to properly control fan speed?


I am going to do this and yes you can. just power the fans from the PSU and thenokk the RPM and the PMW cable to the AQ6
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> 2. What would be the correct way of connecting 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps with Aquabus ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html ) to the Aquaero 6?


you connect them through the aqua Bus and it will see it as a MIPS device.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> 3. Is the Aquabus 4 pin Y splitter cable ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19439/bus-345/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Y_Splitter_Cable_53124.html ) just a 4 pin PWM cable or is it proprietary?
> 
> Thank you much in advance


this is just a 4 pin cable nothing special about it..


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, the Aquabus Y Cable is literally just a Y Connector with a female 4Pin fan connector split into 2 male 4Pin fan connectors.

You can easily make your own, but don't confuse it with a PWM Y Cable. A PWM splitter will be missing the 3rd pin on one of the male ports. The Aquabus splitter has all 4 wires in all the connectors


----------



## HG02

Just thinking about the face plate counter sunk screws you local Caterpillar dealer may have some I'm on holidays so I cant check the bolt bible at the moment and it after hours . But we use metric and imperial bolts but I cant remember
if cat has 3 mm I do know we have 4 mm button heads and counter sunk there black but do not have a shiny finish . Cat machinery is made world wide and uses metric and imperial threads








Ive filled the loop and updates for windows. Next its down load @ Aqua computer and plug power into the aquareo and connect the USB cable and see what happens in windows 7 for me
I plugged in my two top rad fan and my exhaust fan directly to the mobo header at the moment and its bloody hot here today. Il check back later


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> use old fan controller for now and set the AQ6 up with the usb connected to it and learn how to use it. then slowly hook the fans to it once you understand more about it. be sure and shut down before you hook anything to it bruce..
> 
> calm down take a chill pill and relax...
> 
> if you do what i said make sure everything but fans are connected and then set up the fans in aquasuite how you want them.
> shut down hook a set of fans up and then restart and try it.
> but first play with it and get a understanding of how it works and what you want to do with it..


Thanks man you're the best, I have Atlanta Braves - San Francisco Giants baseball tickets for you behind home plate next season 2014, take your family.









Up all night with the Aquaero 6 and Kerli


----------



## HG02

Sven sent me this if any one need to explain some thing on the forum might be useful










so far Ive roughly finished off the loop and power up the pc and down load Aqua suite its late I start tomorrow very happy so far every thing works










How you doing Mean Bruce ?


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I haven't seen shoggy post since right around launch.


I think Soggy's







sandwich is stuck in his throat


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> I think Soggy's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sandwich is stuck in his throat


I miss the Shoggdawg, he's a very cool guy.









So today is the day, I get up and running with the Aquaero 6 deep into the software, so wish the Quick Start Guide was more than just a random descriptive of features that you cannot use until much later, it should include steps needed for Windows 8.1 users and at the very minimum allow your fans to operate at the proper speed while you're setting up the extensive software/hardware functionality, not so much for me, I can work around it simple enough venting just enough angst and a few deep breaths, but for newcomers in this hobby, I can see many returning the unit in absolute frustration.

AquaComputer needs to understand how a quick start guide truly is supposed to function. They don't have to reach down to the level of a Samsung SmartTV user friendliness, but come on just a small extra dose of kindness and empathy and forethought would go a long way.

End of rant.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> I think Soggy's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sandwich is stuck in his throat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss the Shoggdawg, he's a very cool guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today is the day, I get up and running with the Aquaero 6 deep into the software, so wish the Quick Start Guide was more than just a random descriptive of features that you cannot use until much later, it should include steps needed for Windows 8.1 users and at the very minimum allow your fans to operate at the proper speed while you're setting up the extensive software/hardware functionality, not so much for me, I can work around it simple enough venting just enough angst and a few deep breaths, but for newcomers in this hobby, I can see many returning the unit in absolute frustration.
> 
> AquaComputer needs to understand how a quick start guide truly is supposed to function. They don't have to reach down to the level of a Samsung SmartTV user friendliness, but come on just a small extra dose of kindness and empathy and forethought would go a long way.
> 
> End of rant.
Click to expand...

Imagine the fun I'm going to be facing once I get my monster all ready to go live . . . .









One A6 for the main rad fans,
One A5 LT in slave mode for the external rad fans
Another A6 for the 6 D5's, that can be remotely switched to integrate with my custom controller for manual or automated pump control

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> AquaComputer needs to understand how a quick start guide truly is supposed to function. They don't have to reach down to the level of a Samsung SmartTV user friendliness, but come on just a small extra dose of kindness and empathy and forethought would go a long way.


Are you talking about the paper guide included in the box? Or the manual online

My first experience was quite different to yours.

I found it easiest to set fans by rpm range 600rpm at idle, 1400rpm max (but it never gets there)



Then make a virtual sensor to let the Aquaero know the ambient-water delta



Then make a controller to keep that delta around 10C and attached my fans to it



Then I set my pump to PWM mode and fixed value of 40% and I was done and had a workable solution until I could explore the software in more depth.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav2000*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Shoggy, quick question for you. If 90%+ of builds using the aquaero are black on the outside, why do you still insist on selling it with the silver plate on the front and sell the black plate separately?
> 
> I recently bought my first aqua computer product and I must say it has quality written all over it. And I will now continue to purchase stuff from your brand.
> 
> But this is something that I just can't understand. Even Xspc package a black and silver face plate for their bay reservoirs in the main product.


I don't think those are shoggy's decisions. It's likely the sales/marketing team, & it's to make an extra 10$

Speaking of which, my black face plate should be here tooodaaaaaay!







so this, can be complete! I should be leak testing by tonight!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I was having issues finding SINGLE sleeved SATA PSU cables, need to look again. I hate the way they look with the 3-4 heads coming off of one cable.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> I think Soggy's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sandwich is stuck in his throat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I miss the Shoggdawg, he's a very cool guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So today is the day, I get up and running with the Aquaero 6 deep into the software, so wish the Quick Start Guide was more than just a random descriptive of features that you cannot use until much later, it should include steps needed for Windows 8.1 users and at the very minimum allow your fans to operate at the proper speed while you're setting up the extensive software/hardware functionality, not so much for me, I can work around it simple enough venting just enough angst and a few deep breaths, but for newcomers in this hobby, I can see many returning the unit in absolute frustration.
> 
> AquaComputer needs to understand how a quick start guide truly is supposed to function. They don't have to reach down to the level of a Samsung SmartTV user friendliness, but come on just a small extra dose of kindness and empathy and forethought would go a long way.
> 
> End of rant.
Click to expand...

While I agree that AC has had issues with documentation, you also need to understand that this is an enthusiast level product and it's geared toward those who really want uncompromising control over their cooling. It isn't going to be like a standard controller where you just throw it in and turn a few knobs and you're done. Once you explore the software and fully engage the possibilities of curve control, temps, etc, you'll soon understand just how amazing the Aquaero is.

Take a deep breath, dedicate a couple of hours toward learning the device and software, and be happy that you have the best cooling tech out there.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I was having issues finding SINGLE sleeved SATA PSU cables, need to look again. I hate the way they look with the 3-4 heads coming off of one cable.


SSD only needs 5V and a ground, so you can reduce it to two wires.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I was having issues finding SINGLE sleeved SATA PSU cables, need to look again. I hate the way they look with the 3-4 heads coming off of one cable.


Buy some MDPCX sleeve and sleeve it. I sleeve all of my cables with MDPCX and there is nothing like it on the market, despite what anyone else may say. If you need to, they also have SATA crimps and casings so you can make your own cables. Chicks dig it!


----------



## skupples

I meant a cable with a single sata head instead of the stock 3-4 daisy chained together. Been looking st doing my on sleeves for awhile. I have 2x sets of cables for both PSU units so i can work on it in my spare time without having to shut the beast down


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I meant a cable with a single sata head instead of the stock 3-4 daisy chained together.


Make your own! You know you want to!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I meant a cable with a single sata head instead of the stock 3-4 daisy chained together. Been looking st doing my on sleeves for awhile. I have 2x sets of cables for both PSU units so i can work on it in my spare time without having to shut the beast down


Its not hard to do see what I mad and it all came from MDPC-X



these are just punch down connectors so You can have as many as you want!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I meant a cable with a single sata head instead of the stock 3-4 daisy chained together. Been looking st doing my on sleeves for awhile. I have 2x sets of cables for both PSU units so i can work on it in my spare time without having to shut the beast down


The one I show in picture is an MDPC-X single headed one, with wires coming out along the length of the connector instead of perpendicular. I chose not to sleeve that one because it was short, but it's easy to sleeve them like that.

Chicks do indeed dig it http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/sata-crimp-connector.htm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these are just punch down connectors so You can have as many as you want!!


If I understand it now correctly, that's exactly what he doesn't want.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Chicks do indeed dig it http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/sata-crimp-connector.htm
> If I understand it now correctly, that's exactly what he doesn't want.


Yes but I made this one and you can have 1 or 20 on there if you want it is just push down sata connectors with caps..


----------



## skupples

I think I get what seross is saying. The adapters are modular so you can just snap them on. I'll be working on my own after the holidays. Thanks to corsair and evga giving me double sets of cable.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think I get what seross is saying. The adapters are modular so you can just snap them on. Mdpc is paracord correct?


No, MDPCX is what paracord and everything out there wishes it could be. It's the best sleeve in the world. In. The. World. Cheesecake!


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am going to do this and yes you can. just power the fans from the PSU and thenokk the RPM and the PMW cable to the AQ6
> you connect them through the aqua Bus and it will see it as a MIPS device.
> this is just a 4 pin cable nothing special about it..


Thanks for the help









The reason I asked is because initially I had connected 2 x Swiftech PWM Splitter boxes to the CPU and CPU OPT headers in the MOBO and them fans were running 100% no matter what. I called Swiftech and they explained that it was due to the PWM signal strength. Please let me know how it is working when you have it up and running


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> No, MDPCX is what paracord and everything out there wishes it could be. It's the best sleeve in the world. In. The. World. Cheesecake!


but lutro!!! Custom super secret parwcord #1 world best only one custom made for him and him only.I'm just messing around. He's done allot for the community but is too expensive for my taste


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> No, MDPCX is what paracord and everything out there wishes it could be. It's the best sleeve in the world. In. The. World. Cheesecake!
> 
> 
> 
> but lutro!!! Custom super secret parwcord #1 world best only one custom made for him and him only
Click to expand...

ROFL


----------



## skupples

Just to keep things on topic. My a6, is stuck in my 900d atm. Wedged it into the face and now I'm scared to pull it out


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just to keep things on topic. My a6, is stuck in my 900d atm. Wedged it into the face and now I'm scared to pull it out


Be prepared to use the jaws of life! Or just a dremel. A dremel should work. Is it operating at least?


----------



## skupples

Haven't turned it on yet. I'm trying to devise a way to store it inside the D so its viewable through the windOK must get back to work

Maelstrom totally wrecked the front of my case because it doesnt sync with the 900d properly.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Has anybody painted the faceplate?


----------



## 86 5.0L

quick question, does the aquaero start controlling as soon as its powered up independent of windows or does it need aquasuite to load before it starts controlling speeds?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *86 5.0L*
> 
> quick question, does the aquaero start controlling as soon as its powered up independent of windows or does it need aquasuite to load before it starts controlling speeds?


It saves the settings to the unit, so it works upon startup, however to access Aquasuite you obviously need Windows.


----------



## 86 5.0L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> It saves the settings to the unit, so it works upon startup, however to access Aquasuite you obviously need Windows.


+1 rep. thats fine, im just annoyed with pwm running 100% for a min while windows/speedfan boot up everytime i start the pc.


----------



## LCRava

As far as the Aquacomputer D5 pumps (2x), the USB/Aquabus flow meter and the Aquacomputer tube meter, do I need to connect them all via USB first, configure it in the Aquasuite and then connect it to the Aquaero 6 or can I connect them straight to the Aquaero 6? I apologize but I am a little confused by the whole thing







.


----------



## MeanBruce

Had to update the firmware a 2nd time to revision 1034, not certain why (Windows 8.1 maybe?) , but after the 2nd update everything is working just fine and was finally able to disconnect the Lamptron analog controller.

Just cannot believe how rich and feature laden the AquaSuite software truly is, it's just layers upon layers of details and logs graphs data analysis, it's absolutely magnificent.

With such expansive functionality I can see why some enthusiasts simply mount their Aquaeros inside the chassis and forego the front panel and LCD display, but for me with 4 empty 5.25 flex-bays the XT was the best overall choice, only $20 more at Performance PCs than the Pro, the remote and the improved front panel are easily worth the extra cost, twenty dollars well that's just pizza money.









I Love My Aquaero 6 XT























The video that started it all, the unit looks so much better in black.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Had to update the firmware a 2nd time to revision 1034, not certain why (Windows 8.1 maybe?) , but after the 2nd update everything is working just fine and was finally able to disconnect the Lamptron analog controller.
> 
> Just cannot believe how rich and feature laden the AquaSuite software truly is, it's just layers upon layers of details and logs graphs data analysis, it's absolutely magnificent.
> 
> With such expansive functionality I can see why some enthusiasts simply mount their Aquaeros inside the chassis and forego the front panel and LCD display, but for me with 4 empty 5.25 flex-bays the XT was the best overall choice, only $20 more at Performance PCs than the Pro, the remote and the improved front panel are easily worth the extra cost, twenty dollars well that's just pizza money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Love My Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The video that started it all, the unit looks so much better in black.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Told ya it was a firmware thing with W8.1









Glad you got it solved,

D.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Haven't turned it on yet. I'm trying to devise a way to store it inside the D so its viewable through the windOK must get back to work
> 
> Maelstrom totally wrecked the front of my case because it doesnt sync with the 900d properly.


Do the mounts not fit in the drive cage, or does the unit not fit inside the front panel? Either way, it shouldn't be a tough mod i wouldn't think. Front panels are easy to work with. And the mounts come off with the faceplate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Has anybody painted the faceplate?


I was planning on painting one of my faceplates. But the black one looks too damn pretty for me to touch it. There's no way i can think of to paint it without ruining all the laser etching on it


----------



## skupples

Got the black face plate in today. The main issue is the front panel, which is ~1mm too thin, so everything has to squeeze in. The other problem is that the bay res sits in between 3 of the racks, also 900D uses these clip on covers, which I can't make use because of the way the bay res slides in. Basically i'm over it. It's going to be a side view only project for now.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Told ya it was a firmware thing with W8.1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you got it solved,
> 
> D.


Thank you Darlene.









Found this AquaSuite Demo for the Aquaero 5 it also seems relevant to the Aquaero 6. This guy is using AIDA 64 along with AquaSuite, seems they operate at some level of synchronicity.

Here's the AIDA 64 download page, 30 free trial, I'm gonna go ahead and try it.

http://www.aida64.com/downloads


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got the black face plate in today. The main issue is the front panel, which is ~1mm too thin, so everything has to squeeze in. The other problem is that the bay res sits in between 3 of the racks, also 900D uses these clip on covers, which I can't make use because of the way the bay res slides in. Basically i'm over it. It's going to be a side view only project for now.


Ahh so the bay res AND front panel are both working against ya. Gotcha =\


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I was planning on painting one of my faceplates. But the black one looks too damn pretty for me to touch it. There's no way i can think of to paint it without ruining all the laser etching on it


Yea, I just planned to match the faceplate to the white Merlin ST10 I plan on using in my build.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got the black face plate in today. The main issue is the front panel, which is ~1mm too thin, so everything has to squeeze in. The other problem is that the bay res sits in between 3 of the racks, also 900D uses these clip on covers, which I can't make use because of the way the bay res slides in. Basically i'm over it. It's going to be a side view only project for now.


That black faceplate is the best 11.99 I've ever spent, had to pay Florida sales tax for the A6 and the faceplate at Performance PCs, but they had my order ready in 20minutes and called me to let me know. I just drove over and picked it up. I cannot stay mad at those guys, they're just too darn nice at PPCS.

Couldn't wait to remove the stainless steel front, the difference in appearance is so dramatic with the black it's oh so sexy, yes yes baby.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4985_zps7ac0cf18.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4986_zpsfc8d9f35.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4991_zps8d553cdc.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Yea, I just planned to match the faceplate to the white Merlin ST10 I plan on using in my build.


Same here with the white. My entire rig's gonna be white & red. I really don't want anything black on the front. But, the black faceplate for the Pro is just too perfect. I don't know what to do about this.

I was thinking of painting or plastidipping the stock faceplate just to see how it comes out. But the laser work really makes all the difference =\


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Found this AquaSuite Demo for the Aquaero 5 it also seems relevant to the Aquaero 6. This guy is using AIDA 64 along with AquaSuite, seems they operate at some level of synchronicity.


Open Hardware Monitor is totally free and is able to work with Aquasuite in the same way.

Three things about using software sensors to control your fans. First it depends on being logged into Windows, which isn't ideal. Secondly you notice on the video he has one set of fans depending on CPU temp, and another set depending on GPU. This means that e.g. when the GPU is hot, but the CPU is not busy, then one rad's fans will be working hard, and the other rad's fans will stay slow. This is not a very clever way to control radiator fans. Better to have them all on medium, than half noisy and half quiet. Thirdly, when CPUs and GPUs go under load, they get hot very quickly, and when unloaded they cool down very quickly. Fans controlled like this will suddenly react to temp changes - on, off, on, off - and this jumpy behaviour can be quite annoying.

So it's also an option to control fans based on water temperature or ambient-water as I showed in previous post. Just use one air temp sensor (included with the Aquaero) and one coolant temp sensor fitting. Make a virtual sensor to take the difference (delta) and control fans like that - either with curve or with a set point (target temp). This way you don't rely on software, fans will all work in unison, and fan ramping will also be much smoother since the water can carry a lot of heat from the CPU/GPU before the fans really need to spin up.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Open Hardware Monitor is totally free and is able to work with Aquasuite in the same way.
> 
> Three things about using software sensors to control your fans. First it depends on being logged into Windows, which isn't ideal. Secondly you notice on the video he has one set of fans depending on CPU temp, and another set depending on GPU. This means that e.g. when the GPU is hot, but the CPU is not busy, then one rad's fans will be working hard, and the other rad's fans will stay slow. This is not a very clever way to control radiator fans. Better to have them all on medium, than half noisy and half quiet. Thirdly, when CPUs and GPUs go under load, they get hot very quickly, and when unloaded they cool down very quickly. Fans controlled like this will suddenly react to temp changes - on, off, on, off - and this jumpy behaviour can be quite annoying.
> 
> So it's also an option to control fans based on water temperature or ambient-water as I showed in previous post. Just use one air temp sensor (included with the Aquaero) and one coolant temp sensor fitting. Make a virtual sensor to take the difference (delta) and control fans like that - either with curve or with a set point (target temp). This way you don't rely on software, fans will all work in unison, and fan ramping will also be much smoother since the water can carry a lot of heat from the CPU/GPU before the fans really need to spin up.


Thanks man, That's amazing information, would you please consider visiting this thread daily?









+rep +rep +rep


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That black faceplate is the best 11.99 I've ever spent, had to pay Florida sales tax for the A6 and the faceplate at Performance PCs, but they had my order ready in 20minutes and called me to let me know. I just drove over and picked it up. I cannot stay mad at those guys, they're just too darn nice at PPCS.
> 
> Couldn't wait to remove the stainless steel front, the difference in appearance is so dramatic with the black it's oh so sexy, yes yes baby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4985_zps7ac0cf18.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4986_zpsfc8d9f35.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4991_zps8d553cdc.jpg.html


How did you separate the stock face plate from the PCB? Feels like they are glued together.

NVM, just N,S,W,E'ed it.

So, black screws or stock screws?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How did you separate the stock face plate from the PCB? Feels like they are glued together.
> 
> NVM, just N,S,W,E'ed it.
> 
> So, black screws or stock screws?


I just used a kitchen paring knife a fairly dull one, hahaha yea N S E W or corner pry only within the metal frame, NOT into the LCD display one corner at a time then it lifts right off with enough adhesive still remaining.

Those black screws look nice man, not certain where I'm gonna go with the screws yet, but the black Allen/Hex head are much more aesthetically pleasing than the Phillips tops.









Congrats on the black faceplate skupples. It totally rocks.










PPCS?


----------



## skupples

yeah, the philips are just left over screws from the 900Dud. Makes it Merican.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah, the philips are just left over screws from the 900Dud. Makes it Merican.


Hahaha, ok, I also used a DataVac blower before reassembly so as not to sandwich any dust or debris between the LCD display and the cover.









It came out really clean under bright light observation, the only dust was surface and wiped right off.


----------



## kpoeticg

<3 my datavac


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Got the black face plate in today. The main issue is the front panel, which is ~1mm too thin, so everything has to squeeze in. The other problem is that the bay res sits in between 3 of the racks, also 900D uses these clip on covers, which I can't make use because of the way the bay res slides in. Basically i'm over it. It's going to be a side view only project for now.


I am assuming your issue is mostly stemming from the bay reservoir because I did not have any issue with the 900D and the AQ6 XT. It is a tighter fit, I grant you, but it is more to do with the AQ6 given that no one else has any reported issues with other bay devices (Except for you







)


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am assuming your issue is mostly stemming from the bay reservoir because I did not have any issue with the 900D and the AQ6 XT. It is a tighter fit, I grant you, but it is more to do with the AQ6 given that no one else has any reported issues with other bay devices (Except for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


That's a sweet fit geggeg, exceptional work with the 900D.









...


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I am assuming your issue is mostly stemming from the bay reservoir because I did not have any issue with the 900D and the AQ6 XT. It is a tighter fit, I grant you, but it is more to do with the AQ6 given that no one else has any reported issues with other bay devices (Except for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Swiftech forum is lit up with Maelstrom res + 900D issues. It's also so tight that the face plate warps. Not digging that. Basically, due to the 2.5 bay size of the res I can't use one of the covers, so I have this weird gap left over underneath the res. It's OK though. Iv'e worked out a way to stash it internally with my acrylic master, along with a mobo shroud inc.


----------



## VSG

Did you let Corsair George know? This should be concerning for Corsair.


----------



## MeanBruce

Another AquaSuite 2013 tutorial (sort of), he mentions using the FREE Open Hardware Monitor software to feed data to AquaSuite.

If you're having any difficulty sleeping tonight this tutorial will allow you to fall directly into a deep soft restful restorative REM sleep for approximately 18hours. Let's talk more about this anesthetic effect in the morning.













...


----------



## MeanBruce

Did someone say REM?


----------



## valvehead

Well, I finally broke down and bought an AQ6 XT. I've had a D5 USB for almost a year, and the quality and expandability of Aquacomputer products is addictive.

I just dropped about $430 at PPCS (after the 8% holiday promo code). I got the AQ6 XT, a whole bunch of fittings, and a High-Flow USB flow meter. I know that I could have gone with the old style flow meter, but I plan to put this one in my home server eventually. I'll use it in my main rig to figure out what range of flow rates I'm using, and then I'll get one of the more compact MPS flow meters to replace it.

My main rig is silver (Lian Li PC-A77A), so the stainless plate on the AQ6 will match fairly well. However, I'm trying to go for a flat metallic look, so I may get an extra Lian Li bay cover and cut it up to replace the AQ6 plate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Did someone say REM?


No, but I do think that you need to get some sleep.









BTW congrats on getting your AQ6 up and running. Aquasuite can be a little daunting at first.


----------



## VSG

So for some reason both Frozen CPU and PPC have stopped carrying some Aquaero accessories such as the ATX power relay. It would have been nice turning on the computer from the remote









Anyone know what the PWM 1/2 channels do? I am talking about the 2 channels to the left of the 4 PWM channels. Also, does a high flow sensor go to the flow or the high speed connector on the right side? The quick manual isn't really helping in distinguishing the difference.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Anyone know what the PWM 1/2 channels do? I am talking about the 2 channels to the left of the 4 PWM channels.


They supply a 12V 15kHz PWM signal that can be used for controlling things such as leds. (But not fans, which use a 5V 25kHz signal for PWM)


----------



## VSG

That's weird given the dedicated LED channels included. I get the feeling there is a lot of redundancy in the controller for a large majority of customers.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's weird given the dedicated LED channels included. I get the feeling there is a lot of redundancy in the controller for a large majority of customers.


Well, the dedicated LED channel is for RGB (multicolour) connector, which is kind of a different thing since it has 4 wires.

These PWM connectors are 2 pins and just give a pulsing on/off signal. You can use LEDs with it, but also anything else which doesn't mind to switched on and off 15 thousand times per second. I just couldn't think of any other example


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> *So for some reason both Frozen CPU and PPC have stopped carrying some Aquaero accessories such as the ATX power relay. It would have been nice turning on the computer from the remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Wait, so this actually exists?


----------



## VSG

There is an option to turn on the computer from the AQ6 using 2 accessories listed in the quick start guide, and you can turn on the AQ6 from the remote. So I assume you can thus turn on the pc from the remote.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is an option to turn on the computer from the AQ6 using 2 accessories listed in the quick start guide, and you can turn on the AQ6 from the remote. So I assume you can thus turn on the pc from the remote.












Now I just need to find out what would be a safe adhesive to use on the face plate. The new one isn't sticking very well.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There is an option to turn on the computer from the AQ6 using 2 accessories listed in the quick start guide, and you can turn on the AQ6 from the remote. So I assume you can thus turn on the pc from the remote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to find out what would be a safe adhesive to use on the face plate. The new one isn't sticking very well.
Click to expand...

Why not just mount it and secure it with screws? It won't move anywhere. I painted my faceplate to match my chassis and I scraped all the glue off prior to painting, then mounted it and it's sitting on there really nice.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> *So for some reason both Frozen CPU and PPC have stopped carrying some Aquaero accessories such as the ATX power relay*. It would have been nice turning on the computer from the remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the PWM 1/2 channels do? I am talking about the 2 channels to the left of the 4 PWM channels. Also, does a high flow sensor go to the flow or the high speed connector on the right side? The quick manual isn't really helping in distinguishing the difference.


If PPC is not carrying any more parts, contact them. They were out of the 3 pin connectors, and didnt even have the 2 pin listed when I asked them to order those and something else from AQ. I told them shipping was outragous for me and I was going to order a bunch from them anyway. They were happy to do it and got them in rather quickly. So +1 to PPC for that. (Waiting to hear back on them on another more recent thing though







)

I havnt hear about turning on the computer with the Aqueaero but if you can find out how I would be dam interested in how to do it.

I connect my flow sensor to the "Flow Sensor" on the unit. But I have the older style. Can you post a link to it so I can see which one you have??


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Why not just mount it and secure it with screws? It won't move anywhere. I painted my faceplate to match my chassis and I scraped all the glue off prior to painting, then mounted it and it's sitting on there really nice.


there's a small gap that keeps forming along the edges of the PCB. It is screwed on.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> If PPC is not carrying any more parts, contact them. They were out of the 3 pin connectors, and didnt even have the 2 pin listed when I asked them to order those and something else from AQ. I told them shipping was outragous for me and I was going to order a bunch from them anyway. They were happy to do it and got them in rather quickly. So +1 to PPC for that. (Waiting to hear back on them on another more recent thing though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I havnt hear about turning on the computer with the Aqueaero but if you can find out how I would be dam interested in how to do it.
> 
> I connect my flow sensor to the "Flow Sensor" on the unit. But I have the older style. Can you post a link to it so I can see which one you have??


See the picture in the quoted post below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Finally the arrival of the long awaited Aquaero 6 XT!!
> 
> Below are hoots that came along with this shipment...


There is a 3-pin flow and a 4-pin "high" aquabus channel. The quick start manual says the "high" channel is compatible with the high flow sensor with the 4th pin not needed for similar 3 pin devices.

I will call up PPC and see if they can get the parts for the remote pc power. It would be nice if Shoggy could confirm this would work before I bought them though.


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm running five fans (two channels running two fans, one running the rear exhaust) well below the 50% voltage mark at 44.8%, 35.1%, and 40.1%, and none of the component parts are even slightly warm to the touch on the Aquaero 6 PCB, so I guess that's a good sign the new digital VRMs are a success.

Yea, we all wish Shoggy would stop by and say hello during this critical install phase we're all going thru.


----------



## Oopsypoopsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Why not just mount it and secure it with screws? It won't move anywhere. I painted my faceplate to match my chassis and I scraped all the glue off prior to painting, then mounted it and it's sitting on there really nice.


What color did you paint it/do you have photo of finished product?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> What color did you paint it/do you have photo of finished product?


yep I would love to see how Xnine replicated the alternate color paint deep within the engravings, I'm sure it's possible, yet difficult.

I'm considering sanding the tops and rims of four of the countersunk M3s today and painting them matte black, but not touching that faceplate, it's too beautifully done to mess with, no need for my black build.

...


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> See the picture in the quoted post below:
> There is a 3-pin flow and a 4-pin "high" aquabus channel. The quick start manual says the "high" channel is compatible with the high flow sensor with the 4th pin not needed for similar 3 pin devices.
> 
> I will call up PPC and see if they can get the parts for the remote pc power. It would be nice if Shoggy could confirm this would work before I bought them though.


If your flow sensor looks like the one in this link, connect it to the flow sensor. If not, someone else will have to answer this for you as this basic unit is all I have experience with









Yeah I kinda doubt you could turn on the computer via the Aquaero, as it wont have power until the PSU is already powering up. Unless you have an alternate dedicated power supply for the unit. But I cant confirm this.


----------



## skupples

Seems to be some contradiction. Going to gave to actually read the manual


----------



## VSG

Manuals? We ain't got no time for any manuals!


----------



## skupples

All I want at this point is non conductive glue to fix this extremely tiny warping ddon removing the stock face plate. This list for next time already grows long


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Seems to be some contradiction. Going to gave to actually read the manual


Manual? What manual? Don't you mean Das Handbucher? Ya gotta get with the lingo bro, Wir sprechen alle Deutsch jetzt.









See you guys later, I have to go clean my Lüfterflügels.









Well the awesome Rampage IV Extreme BE news thread got locked down this one might be next on their list, is their already an Aquaero Club?

...


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Why not just mount it and secure it with screws? It won't move anywhere. I painted my faceplate to match my chassis and I scraped all the glue off prior to painting, then mounted it and it's sitting on there really nice.
> 
> 
> 
> What color did you paint it/do you have photo of finished product?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Oopsypoopsy*
> 
> What color did you paint it/do you have photo of finished product?
> 
> 
> 
> yep I would love to see how Xnine replicated the alternate color paint deep within the engravings, I'm sure it's possible, yet difficult.
> 
> I'm considering sanding the tops and rims of four of the countersunk M3s today and painting them matte black, but not touching that faceplate, it's too beautifully done to mess with, no need for my black build.
> 
> ...
Click to expand...

It's just a matte black finish. I did order a spare front plate just in case. There were no alternate colors on the faceplate since I have an XT model, unless you're talking about the logo, in which case I didn't want it anyway. No logos on the outside of my build. I'd post a pic, but I'm not gonna be home until tomorrow. Helping my GF out while her mom had surgery and in the hospital the last couple of days.


----------



## skupples

this is what i'm talking about.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> this is what i'm talking about.


Hehehe, are those Basenji dogs? Geez could drive a truck thru that gap. I'd remove it and reshape it and forget the adhesive. Adding like a two part epoxy might make things much worse.

Reshaping with light finger pressure seems the safest.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Hehehe, are those Basenji dogs? Geez could drive a truck thru that gap. I'd remove it and reshape it and forget the adhesive. Adding like a two part epoxy might make things much worse.
> 
> Reshaping with light finger pressure seems the safest.


Was thinking about booking it. I would love to know what the original goo they used was. Anything permanent is a bad idea, but if I could find the same goo-glue that would be great.

Yes they are!



Bourbon feels life is much better upside down.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Was thinking about booking it. I would love to know what the original goo they used was. Anything permanent is a bad idea, but if I could find the same goo-glue that would be great.
> 
> Yes they are!
> 
> 
> 
> Bourbon feels life is much better upside down.


Hehehe, I agree with Bourbon.







I had a Basenji named Bingo when I was little, never let out a bark would only howl at everything. If your black faceplate arrived like mine in the white airmail type bubble pack with the slab of cardboard inside from PPCS, then it might have gotten bent in the mail. Could almost guarantee if you removed the plate, it would not sit flat on a level surface. If you don't feel like removing and reshaping it, then yea, some of that unigoop packaging jelly would work just fine, and a soft clamp or heavy book to stabilize it.

Still think you'd get better long term results by bending it back to it's original form especially if you're having some difficulty with the 900D 5.25inch bay.

I've got my own fit and finish issue, the adjustable short CaseLabs mounts worked just fine achieving a perfectly flush fit with my old Lamptron controller but not this time, one end, the outer is flush the inner mount by the Lamptron pwr button is recessed about 2mm. I'll have to drill open the mounting holes in the CaseLabs adapter in order to move it forward on that end.


----------



## VSG

Plugged in the AQ6 outside the case for testing. It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to get to fan control just using the 3 buttons. I kept pressing the screen thinking the whole thing was touch screen









The unit is fully operational without any software control, it just needs the software to save the settings the first time. There was just a constant blinking red light above the "high" aquabus channel which I am not sure what the cause was. Any idea?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Plugged in the AQ6 outside the case for testing. It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to get to fan control just using the 3 buttons. I kept pressing the screen thinking the whole thing was touch screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit is fully operational without any software control, it just needs the software to save the settings the first time. There was just a constant blinking red light above the "high" aquabus channel which I am not sure what the cause was. Any idea?


Really? I still have not been able to adjust fan speed with the front panel or remote, only the software so far. I must be doing something wrong.









Edit: figured it out, I was trying to adjust the fans while in display mode.

Straight from the manual: Select "Outputs" from the menu list and confirm by pressing the middle side key. Proceed by selecting "Fans" from the sub-menu.

Simple once I read the manual, the 4 programmable keys with the XT also double as quick navigation keys thru the vast menu, so worth the extra $20.

Who reads the manual until the 3rd day anyway? It's much more fun to believe you can solve any issue intuitively then become frustrated and complain a little.









...


----------



## VSG

Fitted in all fan headers, the USB header, flowmeter header and a few thermal sensors. 2 of my inline temperature sensors are not long enough from where they are, so I will have to find a new place for them. Right now there is a mess of cables coming into the 5 1/2 bays but it is so worth it!

Also, I figured out the power connect relay part but the accessory looks pretty ugly with unbraided 24-pin atx cables so I am not sure I will go for it, I don't plan on sleeving myself for this build


----------



## skupples

See what I mean now Geggeg? This silly res has got to go.


----------



## VSG

Ya, you should definitely get rid of it. It is also a huge pain to maintain compared to a good tube reservoir.

Edit: What the heck is running at 4731 rpm???


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, you should definitely get rid of it. It is also a huge pain to maintain compared to a good tube reservoir.
> 
> Edit: What the heck is running at 4731 rpm???


I think it's a misread due to the dual pump running through one PWM header through one A6 header. @ full speed that part reads like 9,000 no joke.

Not a misread, not properly tuned. I have to input how many pulses it is for that RPM to read properly.


----------



## Daggi

My AQ6 has been running for a couple of weeks now. I am really satisfied with the temperature on the unit. A lot cooler than the AQ5.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think it's a misread due to the dual pump running through one PWM header through one A6 header. @ full speed that part reads like 9,000 no joke.
> 
> Not a misread, not properly tuned. I have to input how many pulses it is for that RPM to read properly.


How do you know how many pulses/rotation to input? I noticed that setting on the fan outputs and I wasn't sure what to put in for the SP120s or the MCP35x.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you know how many pulses/rotation to input? I noticed that setting on the fan outputs and I wasn't sure what to put in for the SP120s or the MCP35x.


I'm assuming I can find it in the literature/white papers/PDF for the pump. It doesn't seem to actually affect anything besides that RPM reading. Could be wrong, would be nice if that Shoggy guy was still around answering these types of questions.

OK, must sleep. Falling asleep @ keyboard.


----------



## Unlox

Can the Aquaero 6 XT control the "dial controlled" Koolance PMP-450 pump?

I have two Koolance PMP-450 pumps and was wondering since the pumps have the built-in speed control knob can the Aquaero control them the same?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Plugged in the AQ6 outside the case for testing. It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to get to fan control just using the 3 buttons. I kept pressing the screen thinking the whole thing was touch screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The unit is fully operational without any software control, it just needs the software to save the settings the first time. There was just a constant blinking red light above the "high" aquabus channel which I am not sure what the cause was. Any idea?


It's possible to setup the Aquaero through the unit itself, but HIGHLY NOT recommended. Aquasuite is the main Aquaero interface. Unless you just like doing annoying repetitive things, you should definitely setup EVERYTHING through Aquasuite. You'll soon learn that you'll either hardly or never touch the buttons on the Aquaero itself.

When you set everything up in Aquasuite, it downloads to the Aquaero through the USB header. And voila, you're aquaero is now a seperately functioning computer that doesn't rely on anything else (including YOU)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you know how many pulses/rotation to input? I noticed that setting on the fan outputs and I wasn't sure what to put in for the SP120s or the MCP35x.


Pulses and rotations are completely separate. Pulses refer to your PWM settings. I doubt you can change the Aquaero's PWM Oscillation. I'm pretty sure all PC fans have an RPM sensor of every 2 rotations. Gonna have to dbl check that.

I'm not sure about the 35x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> Can the Aquaero 6 XT control the "dial controlled" Koolance PMP-450 pump?
> 
> I have two Koolance PMP-450 pumps and was wondering since the pumps have the built-in speed control knob can the Aquaero control them the same?


I know with the Aquaero 5, alot of people Voltage Controlled D5 Vario's through Power Adjusts. I know the Aquaero 6 has a higher amp rating than the A5, but i'd be on the safe side and at least get a Power Adjust. Then you'll have no issues with it.

There's also a mod you can do with an MPS control board since the Aquacomputer D5 is a modified Vario. But i'd recommending just grabbing a Power Adjust for each D5


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It's possible to setup the Aquaero through the unit itself, but HIGHLY NOT recommended. Aquasuite is the main Aquaero interface. Unless you just like doing annoying repetitive things, you should definitely setup EVERYTHING through Aquasuite. You'll soon learn that you'll either hardly or never touch the buttons on the Aquaero itself.
> 
> When you set everything up in Aquasuite, it downloads to the Aquaero through the USB header. And voila, you're aquaero is now a seperately functioning computer that doesn't rely on anything else (including YOU)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulses and rotations are completely separate. Pulses refer to your PWM settings. I doubt you can change the Aquaero's PWM Oscillation. I'm pretty sure all PC fans have an RPM sensor of every 2 rotations. Gonna have to dbl check that.
> 
> I'm not sure about the 35x
> 
> I know with the Aquaero 5, alot of people Voltage Controlled D5 Vario's through Power Adjusts. I know the Aquaero 6 has a higher amp rating than the A5, but i'd be on the safe side and at least get a Power Adjust. Then you'll have no issues with it.
> 
> There's also a mod you can do with an MPS control board since the Aquacomputer D5 is a modified Vario. But i'd recommending just grabbing a Power Adjust for each D5


You have probably seen it, inside the fan options it has a PWM pulse setting. From what I can tell w/ my MCP35x2 it doesn't do anything besides change the RPM readout. I messed with it from 1 to 16, & like previously stated, it only changed the readout value, not the actual pump speed.


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I know with the Aquaero 5, alot of people Voltage Controlled D5 Vario's through Power Adjusts. I know the Aquaero 6 has a higher amp rating than the A5, but i'd be on the safe side and at least get a Power Adjust. Then you'll have no issues with it.
> 
> There's also a mod you can do with an MPS control board since the Aquacomputer D5 is a modified Vario. But i'd recommending just grabbing a Power Adjust for each D5


Do you know if it would matter what setting the dial on the pump should be if I got a poweradjust for each? I appreciate the help.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You have probably seen it, inside the fan options it has a PWM pulse setting. From what I can tell w/ my MCP35x2 it doesn't do anything besides change the RPM readout. I messed with it from 1 to 16, & like previously stated, it only changed the readout value, not the actual pump speed.


Hrmmm, maybe it's related to the 2 PWM LED Headers.

This is what my build looks like right now, so i don't have my A6 hooked up yet.













Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> Do you know if it would matter what setting the dial on the pump should be if I got a poweradjust for each? I appreciate the help.


I haven't done it myself. My Aquaero 5 arrived on a Friday, the Aquaero 6 was announced on a Saturday, and i shipped it back for a store credit on Monday =)

I'm sure you could just play with the settings and see what suits you best. Most people with D5's don't really adjust em that much anyway, which is why the Vario's still a popular model.

I doubt you'll get as much of a speed range when VC'ing it, so it would probly depend on your loop. I'm not sure what the min/max voltage is that it needs to run.

Then again, if you're gonna grab PA's anyway, might as well try to sell your pumps on the OCN Marketplace. I bet after selling your pumps and buying either 2 Aquacomputer D5's or PWM D5's, you'll end up spending the same as you would on 2 Power Adjusts. Then you won't have to voltage control anymore either.


----------



## VSG

Is that masking tape everywhere?


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I haven't done it myself. My Aquaero 5 arrived on a Friday, the Aquaero 6 was announced on a Saturday, and i shipped it back for a store credit on Monday =)
> 
> I'm sure you could just play with the settings and see what suits you best. Most people with D5's don't really adjust em that much anyway, which is why the Vario's still a popular model.
> 
> I doubt you'll get as much of a speed range when VC'ing it, so it would probly depend on your loop. I'm not sure what the min/max voltage is that it needs to run.
> 
> Then again, if you're gonna grab PA's anyway, might as well try to sell your pumps on the OCN Marketplace. I bet after selling your pumps and buying either 2 Aquacomputer D5's or PWM D5's, you'll end up spending the same as you would on 2 Power Adjusts. Then you won't have to voltage control anymore either.


Hmm very wise words! Thank you for planting that seed of knowledge. Makes way more sense to trade up to the D5 with the USB header and PWM vs the simple Koolance ones, should have looked at that before. I appreciate the help once again.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is that masking tape everywhere?


Which parts are you talking about?



Spoiler: This?











Lol, yeah. I'm still modding my case pretty frequently. Check out my build log if you wanna see. It's still majorly a WiP and won't be done for a while probly. If you look at that 2nd pic with the 240 rad mount cut outta the chassis, & the piece i cut out leaning up against the bottom of the chassis, i did that mod today.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> Hmm very wise words! Thank you for planting that seed of knowledge. Makes way more sense to trade up to the D5 with the USB header and PWM vs the simple Koolance ones, should have looked at that before. I appreciate the help once again.


NP. That's what OCN's for IMO. Advice


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *geggeg* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:
Originally Posted by *skupples* 

I think it's a misread due to the dual pump running through one PWM header through one A6 header. @ full speed that part reads like 9,000 no joke.

Not a misread, not properly tuned. I have to input how many pulses it is for that RPM to read properly.



How do you know how many pulses/rotation to input? I noticed that setting on the fan outputs and I wasn't sure what to put in for the SP120s or the MCP35x.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *skupples* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How do you know how many pulses/rotation to input? I noticed that setting on the fan outputs and I wasn't sure what to put in for the SP120s or the MCP35x.








> I'm assuming I can find it in the literature/white papers/PDF for the pump. It doesn't seem to actually affect anything besides that RPM reading. Could be wrong, would be nice if that Shoggy guy was still around answering these types of questions.
> 
> OK, must sleep. Falling asleep @ keyboard.


Have you guys tried just setting the minimum and maximum rpm's of the fan/pump you're trying to control? Like what's listed in the fan/pump specs. Maybe that's what its asking? Or is it asking you to set a PWM Slope?


----------



## IT Diva

It'll still be a while before I can set my A6 up, but the pulses thing you guys are asking about with regards to RPM readout, pumps and fans we use for PC's generate 2 per revolution, if that bit of info helps.

D.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> Hmm very wise words! Thank you for planting that seed of knowledge. Makes way more sense to trade up to the D5 with the USB header and PWM vs the simple Koolance ones, should have looked at that before. I appreciate the help once again.


Actuall with the AQ6 it is higher current than the PA,s so all you would have to do is hook each pump up to a fan header and set them on five and you would be fine. Or you can get the AQ USB D5's and then you electronically control the speed setting . 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5. You actualy get more control hooking them up to the fan header but you will loose 2 fan headers then..

Actuall if I was going to sell the pumps you have I would get PMW pumps that way you can run both off one fan heard and have a lot better control of them and the speed if you want.


----------



## MeanBruce

Someone stated you must have AquaSuite installed in order to save your Aquaero settings. I'm turning over a fresh install of Win 8.1 right now from formatted RAID 0 array and all my settings are being saved in the Aquaero device itself AquaSuite is not yet installed.

It's awesome that the device works autonomously just as advertised by AquaComputer. Thank you Shoggy.


----------



## VSG

I think you need to have it installed for the settings to be saved the first time, after that the device can operate on its own.


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm running the 3770K at stock 3.5Ghz and the memory at 1600Mhz during install and Clean System Image creation, its soooooo slow, how do people live this way? Please make it stop!!!









Where's the good doctor from NY? This is a medicritical emergency.

Give me 5.2Ghz Stat!


----------



## skupples

Just found the one down side to the Riv:BE... It only has 2x USB plugs, so I have to unhook one of my case USB cords to hookup the unit.


----------



## VSG

Ya, most boards have 2x USB 2.0 headers so the 900D front panel will be impacted by that. Not a biggy though, 4 USB ports is still plenty.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think you need to have it installed for the settings to be saved the first time, after that the device can operate on its own.


No need to install Aquasuite at all; the device can work entirely independently. It's just that controlling it via the front panel is rather tedious, so Aquasuite is handier way to control it. (And can do pretty graphs too).


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No need to install Aquasuite at all; the device can work entirely independently. It's just that controlling it via the front panel is rather tedious, so Aquasuite is handier way to control it. (And can do pretty graphs too).


Unless there is a save button I missed, it resets it's self after powering down, when running on it's own. @least, the three times I have fired it up the inputs of the previous run were reset.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Unless there is a save button I missed, it resets it's self after powering down, when running on it's own. @least, the three times I have fired it up the inputs of the previous run were reset.


Yes there's a save button. You are talking about making changes in Aquasuite and then restarting PC, or making changes from front panel and then restarting?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Unless there is a save button I missed, it resets it's self after powering down, when running on it's own. @least, the three times I have fired it up the inputs of the previous run were reset.


Ya, same here. It's not an issue since I plan to run aquasuite anyway but I don't see how the settings are saved without it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes there's a save button. You are talking about making changes in Aquasuite and then restarting PC, or making changes from front panel and then restarting?


I meant running the unit when not hooked up to the PC. I used it to tweak my pump speeds while bleeding my system. Not really an issue, as i'll be hooking it up for Aquasuite.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, same here. It's not an issue since I plan to run aquasuite anyway but I don't see how the settings are saved without it.


Profiles and factory defaults | Profile management | Profile # | Save current device configuration
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I meant running the unit when not hooked up to the PC. I used it to tweak my pump speeds while bleeding my system. Not really an issue, as i'll be hooking it up for Aquasuite.


You can e.g. make profile #2 for bleeding, and then go back to profile #1 for normal use.


----------



## skupples

OK, so you can save in the unit w/o needing aquasuite, cool +1


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just found the one down side to the Riv:BE... It only has 2x USB plugs, so I have to unhook one of my case USB cords to hookup the unit.


Just use this man and no worries.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_81_250&products_id=1456


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> Just use this man and no worries.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_81_250&products_id=1456


I'm confused, how would this benefit me? The only way that would be applicable in this situation would be to run the AQ6 through a USB port on the back/front of the board/tower.

btw, fixed the issue of the bent face plate by sandwiching it between two massive hard cover books, with a cinderblock on top.


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm confused, how would this benefit me? The only way that would be applicable in this situation would be to run the AQ6 through a USB port on the back/front of the board/tower.
> 
> btw, fixed the issue of the bent face plate by sandwiching it between two massive hard cover books, with a cinderblock on top.


Well wasn't your problem being short of USB board headers? That would give you a way to hook the Aquaero 6 up with out have to pull anything you have previously connected to the RIVE Black.


----------



## VSG

That adapter is a female type header whereas the AQ6 needs a male header to fit into. This might work though; http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_81_250&products_id=1116

I might consider this if needed.


----------



## MeanBruce

Now that the A6 is installed, moving to attempt a 5.3Ghz and 5.4Ghz O/C boot as soon as my council (overclocking advisor) arrives back from his Christmas Party.

5.4Ghz with an H100i, what are you thinking?......it's only a dream baby.

...


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That adapter is a female type header whereas the AQ6 needs a male header to fit into. This might work though; http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_81_250&products_id=1116
> 
> I might consider this if needed.


Good catch! I don't have the version 6 yet, was just trying to help a fellow OCN member.

_*EDIT:*_

Curious though, it looks like the header is in need of a female plug though... So, I don't know where you are putting that male plug.


----------



## VSG

The cable you or I linked is not long enough to go from the front of the case to behind it neatly, so you need to use the default cable provided with the AQ6 with this cable as an adapter. It will still look ugly though









Edit: Actually the cable you linked is 30" long and may just work.


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The cable you or I linked is not long enough to go from the front of the case to behind it neatly, so you need to use the default cable provided with the AQ6 with this cable as an adapter. It will still look ugly though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Actually the cable you linked is 30" long and may just work.


Ahh guess it depends on the case, the one I linked is 30" long and would be long enough for my TJ11 with the 90 degree rotation. Plus you could always solder on extra length and sleeve it up. I get you now though, good eye once again!








*
EDIT:*

I was thinking routing from the back of the case into the inside of it not slapping it on the front exposed. The rear I/O is where I would do it. Yea putting it on the front would definitely be ugly as hell lol. I keep thinking in the terms of my TJ11, guess you get spoiled with a hidden rear I/O lol.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Just found the one down side to the Riv:BE... It only has 2x USB plugs, so I have to unhook one of my case USB cords to hookup the unit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, most boards have 2x USB 2.0 headers so the 900D front panel will be impacted by that. Not a biggy though, 4 USB ports is still plenty.


Yeah, that's pretty common. That's what this NZXT USB expansion is useful for


----------



## VSG

I considered it, but I am absolutely filling up the 900D to the brim so there is really no place for it without making it an ugly distraction.


----------



## skupples

Thx for the help gentleman, got the beast up & running. It's a bit messy due to having to compromise on cable routing & what not, but i'm satisfied for now. Some time in the new year I will get the tools needed to customize my cable lengths, which will help a great deal with the whole DUAL PSU excess wire issues. I bent the most south eastern pin on the USB 3.0 strip on my Riv:BE, but I think I can fix it as soon as I find my jewelry tools.


----------



## ozzy1925

a newbie question:How do i know which flow meter i need with aq6 ?I will be using 1x d5 pump


----------



## MeanBruce

Even with the Aquaero Aqua-Aero settings, I cannot get the 3770K to boot any higher than 5.2Ghz even at 1.7volts, not with the H100i.

Maybe if I had an icy-cold water loop I could reach higher, or a phase-shift or LN2.


----------



## VSG

I don't think I can bring myself to go over 1.4 V, let alone 1.7


----------



## MeanBruce

I just tried 5.3Ghz at 1.7volts and got Windows "WHEA uncontrollable error" message.

The CPU boots just fine into 5.2Ghz at 1.5volts. Oh well, I guess I found the limiting wall.

still a nice chip.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't think I can bring myself to go over 1.4 V, let alone 1.7


5.2Ghz 1.5v was simple enough. Is the boot at high volts dependent upon the CPU thermals at that very moment? or only over time while working with windows? noob question.

This photo is just multiplier and volts adjust, surely there is more to be done in the bios to boot into a higher clock than only two parameters.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/5215v_zps913a9704.png.html


----------



## HG02

Opps


----------



## HG02

this works well Ozzy


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yitianxin*
> 
> Now I just need a case big enough to hold 2800mm worth of radiator in "push/pull".


You can always get the TJ11 mate


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Even with the Aquaero Aqua-Aero settings, I cannot get the 3770K to boot any higher than 5.2Ghz even at 1.7volts, not with the H100i.
> 
> Maybe if I had an icy-cold water loop I could reach higher, or a phase-shift or LN2.


The Aquaero is not going to help keep it any cooler meanbruce it will just help with control and noise..


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yitianxin*
> 
> Now I just need a case big enough to hold 2800mm worth of radiator in "push/pull".


Wait, are you seriously talking about 20 140mm radiator slots?


----------



## VSG

I don't think even that case can handle 2.8 meters of radiator space. For that (not sure why), you are looking at Caselabs TX-10 D with dual pedestals and/or dual MORA radiators.


----------



## seross69

or triple pedestals. I was going to have 140*9, 2 ea 140*3 and 6 ea 140* 4 in the TX10-D. But down sized and onlu going to use 4 140*4. so total of 4340!!!


----------



## WiSK

Or an Aquacomputer Airplex Gigant


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The Aquaero is not going to help keep it any cooler meanbruce it will just help with control and noise..


Yes, I realize the A6 only assists in adjustment of fans while benching to 90% or 95%volts, how on earth would it improve CPU cooling on it's own?

Whoop that went out to left field.









More time wasted here, never again. Overclockers.net























I could Google better information.

...


----------



## skupples

you are looking @ spending well over 1,000$ on a case to get 2800 mm worth of radiator in your case. Of course, unless you are measuring overall circumference or something silly. Better off getting multiple free-standing exterior rad units if that's your goal. Might as well buy a cube & water cool the hole thing while you are @ it.


----------



## VSG

lol what are the odds we are being trolled here? His only other post is about molotov cocktails


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Yes, I realize the A6 only assists in adjustment of fans while benching to 90% or 95%volts, how on earth would it improve CPU cooling on it's own?
> 
> Whoop that went out to left field.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More time wasted here, never again. Overclockers.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could Google better information.
> 
> ...


Could it be that you are in a thread dedicated to a high spec fan controller?? If you wanna ask questions about best ways to OC your CPU go to one of the dedicated CPU OCing threads and I bet you will get better information









EDIT: not sure what CPU you are using, but here is the Haswell OCing thread. Or at least one of them


----------



## Unlox

haha thought he meant 280mm jesus christ man....


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> haha thought he meant 280mm jesus christ man....


Yeah... I'm going with a typo... Though, fitting a 280 is a breeze in pretty much any case, so meh.... Who cares... More pressing issues like finding an extra Corsair AX760/860 Molex cable. They only ship two with the PSU. I have many other PSU's, but none of the molex cables match the pinning for the AX unit... Anyone have any suggestions? I'm not looking for an extension, i'm looking for the actual cable. Amazon,ppc,fcpu, no one seems to carry individual corsair cables, besides 24 pin.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, this is going to sound really dumb, but after installing the Aquasuite software and running it, how do I view all the menus and stuff?

I finally got some time and replaced the bezel on my AQ6 and plugged the unit it and powered it up. I downloaded and installed the latest software from the site, and when I run the Aquasuite icon that it placed on my desktop, not appears to happen.

When I pull up task manager, I see a process called AquaComputerService.exe running, but I don't see any other icon on my task bar, etc.

Do I have to use AIDA64? If so, do I have to buy it?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Ok, this is going to sound really dumb, but after installing the Aquasuite software and running it, how do I view all the menus and stuff?
> 
> I finally got some time and replaced the bezel on my AQ6 and plugged the unit it and powered it up. I downloaded and installed the latest software from the site, and when I run the Aquasuite icon that it placed on my desktop, not appears to happen.
> 
> When I pull up task manager, I see a process called AquaComputerService.exe running, but I don't see any other icon on my task bar, etc.
> 
> Do I have to use AIDA64? If so, do I have to buy it?


The software starts out in the little sudde system tray on the bottom right of the windows start bar


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mlfse*
> 
> Now that the A6 is installed, moving to attempt a 5.3Ghz and 5.4Ghz O/C boot as soon as my council arrives back from his Christmas Party


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I realize the A6 only assists in adjustment of fans while benching to 90% or 95%volts, how on earth would it improve CPU cooling on it's own?
> Whoop that went out to left field.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More time wasted here, never again. Overclockers.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could Google better information.
> ...


I think some one joined just to troll Bruce.

Good thing this is overclock.net....


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> The software starts out in the little sudde system tray on the bottom right of the windows start bar


Not seeing anything.

If I double click on the aquasuite icon (blue and yellow) that is on the desktop, after about 10 seconds I get a dialog box that says "aquaquite has stopped working". I've uninstalled several times, and no luck.

I even uninstalled Microsoft.NET 4.5.1 and downloaded and installed just .NET 4 and tried that.

When I pull the USB connection to the AQ6, I hear Windows make a tone as if it is disconnecting a device. When I plug it back in, Windows makes the tone again like it is detecting it.

For some crazy reason, it is showing up as a keyboard and mouse under HID.


----------



## X-Nine

Hmmm, that's really weird. I would install the latest .Net, install Aquasuite, reboot. The reason the controller shows up in your HID as a mouse/keyboard is that it has the capability to be one, hence the remote.


----------



## skupples

Sigh, thought I would have time to get the suite up & running, but getting win7 up to date took HOURS. I should really make an SP1 iso instead of updating from my original win 7 disk every time.

BTW... Is the a6xt display supposed to stay on after the system has powered down?


----------



## Train Wreck

Did anybody get a RGB led strip hooked up to their Aquaero?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Sigh, thought I would have time to get the suite up & running, but getting win7 up to date took HOURS. I should really make an SP1 iso instead of updating from my original win 7 disk every time.
> 
> BTW... Is the a6xt display supposed to stay on after the system has powered down?


The display on my Aquaero 6 stays on when my system is powered down. It's the same for both my Aquaero 5's. The screen can not be turned off completely. You can adjust the brightness and contrast so it looks like off but you will still be able to see something.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> this works well Ozzy


Thanks


----------



## Unlox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yeah... I'm going with a typo... Though, fitting a 280 is a breeze in pretty much any case, so meh.... Who cares... More pressing issues like finding an extra Corsair AX760/860 Molex cable. They only ship two with the PSU. I have many other PSU's, but none of the molex cables match the pinning for the AX unit... Anyone have any suggestions? I'm not looking for an extension, i'm looking for the actual cable. Amazon,ppc,fcpu, no one seems to carry individual corsair cables, besides 24 pin.


Have you thought about converting your extra cables you have leftover from your PSU? What do you have left? If you have some SATA cables left try a SATA to Molex adaper and bam you're in business!









It's either that, or try ebay and end up having to buy a whole Corsair cable kit just for two extra molex cables.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlox*
> 
> Have you thought about converting your extra cables you have leftover from your PSU? What do you have left? If you have some SATA cables left try a SATA to Molex adaper and bam you're in business!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's either that, or try ebay and end up having to buy a whole Corsair cable kit just for two extra molex cables.










Yeah, it's 40$ for the kit, which comes sleeved. Converting SATA to Molex will provide the proper power the GPU molex connector on the bottom of my board needs?


----------



## VSG

Ya they are interchangeable for the most part.


----------



## X-Nine

Could always just make your own, would look much cleaner. Just a thought


----------



## skupples

Out of three power supplies none of them have compatible molex cables


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Out of three power supplies none of them have compatible molex cables


What exactly are you trying to power? Ya know, I have an old HX850 in the garage, might have a cable laying around somewhere I could ship out to you.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> What exactly are you trying to power? Ya know, I have an old HX850 in the garage, might have a cable laying around somewhere I could ship out to you.


Hx cables are not compatible. Already tried. The pinning is different.









Trying to hookup the GPU molex power on riv:be... The PSU only came with two molex. One is going to the ADD2PSU & nothing else can be hooked up to it from what o understand. The other is powering the aquaero, pumps & res temp sensor.

Really I should just get a pin puller and switch one around.


----------



## X-Nine

Yeesh. Do you have any extra 8 or 6 Pin cables? Use something like THIS


----------



## VSG

Can't you use the stock cables from the PSU?


----------



## skupples

that is definitely a cheaper and viable option. GegGeg the PSU only comes with two molex. One is dedicate to the ADD2PSU. & as far as I know nothing else can be hooked up to it. Basically corsair has it allixed up. No one needs 4x sata cables. Think I'll just grab one of those when I order my LED strips. Just gotta find a white strip that I can mod to the AQ6XT


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Thanks


I was just thinking how some people are not happy with the white three pin plug on there flow meters and would prefer a black plug and I can recall I think it was Akula in the Case labs forum in one of his builds that he used vegetable die when changing the color on his fan blades he simmered the fan blades for a few hours in a mixed up vegetable die perhaps you could do the same with the with the plug that fits the flow meter so you can used the original plug with a color change








 I just used shrink wrap


----------



## kpoeticg

Prosperse Disperse Dye + Dye Carrier is great for dyeing fans and molex connectors. It would be pretty simple to dye that 3Pin


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, I'm about at my wits end with Aquacomputer. I can't get the Aquasuite to work on my 3770K system with Windows 7, but that's another issue.

Tonight, I'd figure I'd just fire up some good old hardware and see how the AQ D5 pump, AQ pump adapter, and AQ 880mL reservoir all plays together.

I must just not be "getting it", because I am having NOTHING but issues.

Basically, I am getting SQUAT for flow ... either laying the assembly over on it's side (which is what I *HOPE* to do in my build) or even vertical like everyone else seems to do.

If you wouldn't mind, please watch this short 2 minute video of what I'm doing and see if you can spot what I'm doing wrong.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## skupples

Guys guys... That's so over kill. Just get vinyl dye from the auto-store.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Prosperse Disperse Dye + Dye Carrier is great for dyeing fans and molex connectors. It would be pretty simple to dye that 3Pin


I just wish Aquacomputer had the pins on the other side of that metal plate. I would have loved to show it off but instead I have the flow meter upright with the black underside facing the windowed side panel now and the pins on the opposite side going straight through a case grommet.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Ok, I finally got Aquasuite to fire up.

I had to uninstall and reinstall the Microsoft Visual C++ 2010 SP1 Redistributable Package (x64).

Dunno why it never asked for it on my rig, but when I tried installing Aquasuite on another computer, it had to download that, so on a whim, I uninstalled and reinstalled that package on my system.



Now just to get the water flowing with the hardware.

So if someone could please look at my video and see what I'm doing wrong, I'd appreciate it.


----------



## skupples

Finally installed & update the suite, woah... Just woah. AWw shucks, going to have to spend some more money to get some functionality out of it.


----------



## VSG

Like what?

I bought an aquacomputer RGB led module for the heck of it- I will have it in my 5 1/2 bay drive for a quick visual indicator of loop temperature.


----------



## skupples

Well, really I just need to hookup the temp sensors so I can setup rev ups & what not... It seems iv'e lost control of my MCP35x2 since turning on the suite though. It's very obvious when changing speeds on this type of pump, as you can easily hear it... The speeds are now not changing @ all. Seems to be stuck ~50%


----------



## VSG

50% on that is still a lot of power lol, how noisy is it? I know you got the heatsink too so heat shouldn't be an issue at all at 50%.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 50% on that is still a lot of power lol, how noisy is it? I know you got the heatsink too so heat shouldn't be an issue at all at 50%.


got dat fan too! I want the flow meter so I can properly track temp/flow ratio. 3.5 bay res, pump, heatsink, fan combo...









It's not that loud once all the air is out of the system, but even a few bubbles can be heard... I can't tell what it's stuck @ without adjusting it though. Need to look into it more tomorrow, may need to uninstall/reinstall.

meh, this stinks. Definitely lost control of my pump, stuck on not even sure what speed. I'm going to have to uninstall the suite & use the remote if I can't fix this tomorrow. Uninstall/reinstall didn't work, i'm probably missing something inside the suite.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Well, really I just need to hookup the temp sensors so I can setup rev ups & what not... It seems iv'e lost control of my MCP35x2 since turning on the suite though. It's very obvious when changing speeds on this type of pump, as you can easily hear it... The speeds are now not changing @ all. Seems to be stuck ~50%


IT Diva's done a bunch of testing with the 35x PWM duty cycle. I think her results showed that the pumps entire rpm range takes place between like 17-42%. That numbers just off memory, but it's somewhere around there. I'm sure she'll chime in on the discussion.

So basically, i'm pretty sure that 50% duty cycle is already max rpm's


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, I finally got everything playing, and now I have to descide if I want to keep using the "High Flow" sensor or get a pressure sensor. The standard one, which easier to install and very accurate, it pretty dang noisy.






Does anyone have the profile for say the Aquacomputer MPS 400 Flow Sensor for 3/8" diameter tubing (aka 9.5250mm)?

AquaComputer MPS 400 Flow Sensor


----------



## VSG

Wow I had no idea that flowmeter was so noisy. Hopefully it isn't too bad inside a case but I never imagined that would be potentially the loudest component in a loop. I can't imagine a pressure sensor would be as accurate as a flowmeter and I would much rather control the pump flow rate based on loop temperature if possible. Let me know if you decide to go with the pressure sensor.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> IT Diva's done a bunch of testing with the 35x PWM duty cycle. I think her results showed that the pumps entire rpm range takes place between like 17-42%. That numbers just off memory, but it's somewhere around there. I'm sure she'll chime in on the discussion.
> 
> So basically, i'm pretty sure that 50% duty cycle is already max rpm's


This MCP35x2 was topping out @ ~57% & turned off @ 20 something, so close... @least, above that the pitch didn't change. The problem is that iv'e lost control since installing the suite. I had to 100% fill the res to get the vortex to stop.

That thing sounds like a bald bearing bouncing around.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wow I had no idea that flowmeter was so noisy. Hopefully it isn't too bad inside a case but I never imagined that would be potentially the loudest component in a loop. I can't imagine a pressure sensor would be as accurate as a flowmeter and I would much rather control the pump flow rate based on loop temperature if possible. Let me know if you decide to go with the pressure sensor.


Yeah, it is pretty obnoxious.

As of right now, I'm tempted not to use it at all.

I have it next to my rig and have 3 140mm fans going at 1200 RPM, 6 120mm fans at 1200RPM, 3 D5 pumps moving water, 2 video cards, and 2 power supplies all running and ALL that is quieter than the rattle of the flow meter.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I think the rattle is the part I dislike more than the absolute noise. Currently I was having it on top of my bottom rad but now I am considering hiding it behind it and attaching it immediately to the pump as you did. Worst case, grab some noise absorbing foam and smother that little squealer.


----------



## VSG

Read up more on the rattle on the Aquacomputer forum and people have reported that the rattle itself decreased with time as did the noise.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Guys guys... That's so over kill. Just get vinyl dye from the auto-store.


*THIS^^^*

Excuse the OT............

With regards to dyeing the plastic parts

RIT dye works just fine, just make sure that the item you are dyeing is light in colour-ie grey/white etc.

I dyed 13 fans using it and it came out fine.

I used the powdered version-just go to their webpage, the have instructions on how to dye plastics & acrylics.

Have fun


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Read up more on the rattle on the Aquacomputer forum and people have reported that the rattle itself decreased with time as did the noise.


I did a little more experimenting this morning and I think that with a little sound absorber, this will be a "keeper".

Basically I'm going to put this on the back side of my Phantek case, and decouple it with compression fittings and soft tubing (the rest of my build will be using rigid tubing), and put sound absorber around it, it should be virtually silent.

Here is a video of my little experiment.


----------



## VSG

Great, what kind of sound absorber are you looking into? I will see how it sounds when attached to rigid fittings, but I think I may have to go the soft tubing route as well.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Great, what kind of sound absorber are you looking into? I will see how it sounds when attached to rigid fittings, but I think I may have to go the soft tubing route as well.


Dunno yet. There are a ton of options, seemingly all about the same cost, and offer WAY more material than I need.

SilverStone Silent Foam SF01, Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Foam Material, Black, 21"x15", 4mm thick, 2 pcs - $15.99

AcoustiML OEM 3-Layer Soundproofing Material - 12mm - $24.95

AcoustiPack™ EXTRA - Sheet PC Soundproofing Material (7mm) - $21.95

Akust NoiseBuster Pro "Advanced" - $11.95

But I guess first I'll see what I might be able to find locally at my shop or at a hobby shop.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I did a little more experimenting this morning and I think that with a little sound absorber, this will be a "keeper".
> 
> Basically I'm going to put this on the back side of my Phantek case, and decouple it with compression fittings and soft tubing (the rest of my build will be using rigid tubing), and put sound absorber around it, it should be virtually silent.
> 
> Here is a video of my little experiment.


is this a common problem?


----------



## skupples

It's how it is designed it seems.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is this a common problem?


From several reviews that I just recently looked at, as well as several Youtube videos, it appears to be.

It really isn't a "problem", it is just something to consider. That sensor doesn't require any calibration at all, and it works great, it is just a little noisy out in the open. Aquacomputer sells "pressure sensor" based flow meters that are totally silent, but you have to have a Aquereo 5/6 or some other way of reading them out, and depending on your tube diameter, you may have to make a custom flow profile.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So anyone found black replacement screws for the faceplate yet? I might just go ahead and use spray paint if nothing else shows up.


Touch up gun blue should turn them black or close to it.

If you need more usb2 headers this is the best solution I've found. Adds three headers and two ports and it's cheap.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811997024


----------



## valvehead

Uh oh. What do we have here?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, I finally got everything playing, and now I have to descide if I want to keep using the "High Flow" sensor or get a pressure sensor. The standard one, which easier to install and very accurate, it pretty dang noisy.
> 
> Does anyone have the profile for say the Aquacomputer MPS 400 Flow Sensor for 3/8" diameter tubing (aka 9.5250mm)?
> 
> AquaComputer MPS 400 Flow Sensor


That review seems to indicate that the preset profiles are not very accurate anyway (though the MPS Flow was being compared to a precision instrument). I wonder if using the readings from the High-Flow sensor would be good enough for creating a custom profile.

I'm going to be using a High-Flow USB sensor temporarily in my main rig until I figure out what range of flow rates I'll be using. I'll get the corresponding MPS Flow sensor to replace it, and the High-Flow one will go in my home server where I'm not concerned about noise.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Uh oh. What do we have here?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That review seems to indicate that the preset profiles are not very accurate anyway (though the MPS Flow was being compared to a precision instrument). I wonder if using the readings from the High-Flow sensor would be good enough for creating a custom profile.
> 
> I'm going to be using a High-Flow USB sensor temporarily in my main rig until I figure out what range of flow rates I'll be using. I'll get the corresponding MPS Flow sensor to replace it, and the High-Flow one will go in my home server where I'm not concerned about noise.


Nice haul.









Yeah, I was thinking about doing that too ... getting the MPS 400 and use the "High Flow" to build a new profile for it, then pull it out of the loop. I still may do that too, but I'll mess with the sound absorber first. God knows I got enough on my plate already with this build.

As it is, I'll most likely be selling my brand new Aquacomputer Pump adapter for D5 and the 880mL reservoir (and a Switftech Vario pump). Don't get me wrong, they are top quality units, but I just can't fit them in my case. So most likely I'll sell them and pick up a second Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB control and put both of those AQ pumps in an old EK D5 dual top and 200mm reservoir that I have left over from another build.


----------



## skupples

motherboard standoff screws should work too, if you don't mind Philips head.

btw, idk what else to do @ this point. I haven't been able to get PWM pump control back. Uninstalled the suite, disconnected/reconnected everything, still no dice.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Nice haul.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was thinking about doing that too ... getting the MPS 400 and use the "High Flow" to build a new profile for it, then pull it out of the loop. I still may do that too, but I'll mess with the sound absorber first. God knows I got enough on my plate already with this build.
> 
> As it is, I'll most likely be selling my brand new Aquacomputer Pump adapter for D5 and the 880mL reservoir (and a Switftech Vario pump). Don't get me wrong, they are top quality units, but I just can't fit them in my case. So most likely I'll sell them and pick up a second Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB control and put both of those AQ pumps in an old EK D5 dual top and 200mm reservoir that I have left over from another build.


If only this was 2 months ago, I would have snatched the res from you. I love the idea of borosilicate reservoirs and that particular reservoir is sized near perfectly for my needs.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> From several reviews that I just recently looked at, as well as several Youtube videos, it appears to be.
> 
> It really isn't a "problem", it is just something to consider. That sensor doesn't require any calibration at all, and it works great, it is just a little noisy out in the open. Aquacomputer sells "pressure sensor" based flow meters that are totally silent, but you have to have a Aquereo 5/6 or some other way of reading them out, and depending on your tube diameter, you may have to make a custom flow profile.


do they fix the noise issue with this?
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
i will go with 13/19mm tubing .
Do we need a pwm pump for aq6 or 5 speed variable works too?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> From several reviews that I just recently looked at, as well as several Youtube videos, it appears to be.
> 
> It really isn't a "problem", it is just something to consider. That sensor doesn't require any calibration at all, and it works great, it is just a little noisy out in the open. Aquacomputer sells "pressure sensor" based flow meters that are totally silent, but you have to have a Aquereo 5/6 or some other way of reading them out, and depending on your tube diameter, you may have to make a custom flow profile.
> 
> 
> 
> do they fix the noise issue with this?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
> i will go with 13/19mm tubing .
> Do we need a pwm pump for aq6 or 5 speed variable works too?
Click to expand...

If you already have a D5 vario model, (the 5 speed one) it will work OK with a A6 using variable voltage control. (pump setting on 5) No more than 1 pump on a channel.

If you have not bought a pump yet, and will be using an A6, then * absolutely * get the PWM version of the D5, The PWM version has * much * better low speed range and control, and since it gets its power from a molex, you can run several from 1 channel of the A6, since it's only the PWM control signal being supplied.

Darlene


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do they fix the noise issue with this?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
> 
> There is no rotating parts in this one, so there is no noise from it


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you already have a D5 vario model, (the 5 speed one) it will work OK with a A6 using variable voltage control. (pump setting on 5) No more than 1 pump on a channel.
> 
> If you have not bought a pump yet, and will be using an A6, then * absolutely * get the PWM version of the D5, The PWM version has * much * better low speed range and control, and since it gets its power from a molex, you can run several from 1 channel of the A6, since it's only the PWM control signal being supplied.
> 
> Darlene


thank you i havent bought a pump yet.I will buy a pwm d5 pump (alphacool or swiftech one)as you advised but i also want the bitspower pump mod kit .Do you know: does it fit to pwm d5?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do they fix the noise issue with this?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
> 
> 
> 
> There is no rotating parts in this one, so there is no noise from it
Click to expand...

where does this noise come from then?


----------



## VSG

That's a completely different flow sensor which uses mechanical parts.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you i havent bought a pump yet.I will buy a pwm d5 pump (alphacool or swiftech one)as you advised but i also want the bitspower pump mod kit .Do you know: does it fit to pwm d5?


Or you could consider Aquacomputer's own D5 USB/Aquabus pump. It connects to the Aquaero via the aquabus. That way you don't have to sacrifice a fan channel for the pump.
Quote:


> where does this noise come from then?


The one in the video is the High Flow sensor. That one is mechanical.

The one you linked to on the Aquacomputer site is the MPS Flow 400 sensor. That one uses differential pressure to measure flow. There are no moving parts, so no noise.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you already have a D5 vario model, (the 5 speed one) it will work OK with a A6 using variable voltage control. (pump setting on 5) No more than 1 pump on a channel.
> 
> If you have not bought a pump yet, and will be using an A6, then * absolutely * get the PWM version of the D5, The PWM version has * much * better low speed range and control, and since it gets its power from a molex, you can run several from 1 channel of the A6, since it's only the PWM control signal being supplied.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> thank you i havent bought a pump yet.I will buy a pwm d5 pump (alphacool or swiftech one)as you advised but i also want the bitspower pump mod kit .Do you know: does it fit to pwm d5?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do they fix the noise issue with this?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is no rotating parts in this one, so there is no noise from it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> where does this noise come from then?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thank you i havent bought a pump yet.I will buy a pwm d5 pump (alphacool or swiftech one)as you advised but i also want the bitspower pump mod kit .Do you know: does it fit to pwm d5?
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could consider Aquacomputer's own D5 USB/Aquabus pump. It connects to the Aquaero via the aquabus. That way you don't have to sacrifice a fan channel for the pump.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> where does this noise come from then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The one in the video is the High Flow sensor. That one is mechanical.
> 
> The one you linked to on the Aquacomputer site is the MPS Flow 400 sensor. That one uses differential pressure to measure flow. There are no moving parts, so no noise.
Click to expand...

Using the PWM version of the D5 will take one of the 4 channels on the A6, if you ran dual PWM D5's, it would still only take the one channel though, as the A6 would only have to supply the PWM signal which it could split to both pumps.

If you use the very expensive AC version D5, . . . keep in mind that it is not a PWM pump, and will not have the low speed characteristics that make PWM such a standout,

It is essentially, a D5 Vario, with the manually set potentiometer, (red speed adjuster) replaced by a digital potentiometer to allow for software control.

It won't run any slower or quieter than a vario.

It comes down to how many fan channels do you need, and can you spare a channel for the pump(s)?

Darlene


----------



## skupples

So, anyone have any ideas as to why I have lost control of my mcp35x2?

connections checked.
tried uninstalling aquasuite, still can't control manually from device
unhooked everything, rehooked, still no control...


----------



## VSG

Did you try resetting the AQ6? I really have no idea since I am at least a week away from even leak testing at this point.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, anyone have any ideas as to why I have lost control of my mcp35x2?
> 
> connections checked.
> tried uninstalling aquasuite, still can't control manually from device
> unhooked everything, rehooked, still no control...


You did set the aquasuite to control by PWM where it gives you PWM, power or voltage options, I assume ?

D.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You did set the aquasuite to control by PWM where it gives you PWM, power or voltage options, I assume ?
> 
> D.


derp derp... I figured that info would transfer over into the suite... Guess it didn't... BTW Darlene, this particular unit tops out @ 58% & bottoms out @ 22%


----------



## VSG

ROFL.. Glad it worked out in the end though, and good to know I won't have to repeat that (I very well would have done the same thing!).


----------



## skupples

It's in the advanced tab, in case you don't see it @ first.

I can sync software temp sensors with HW or was it Aida?


----------



## VSG

I kinda feel bad dedicating a whole fan channel to 4 case fans at this point but whatever.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You did set the aquasuite to control by PWM where it gives you PWM, power or voltage options, I assume ?
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> derp derp... I figured that info would transfer over into the suite... Guess it didn't... BTW Darlene, this particular unit tops out @ 58% & bottoms out @ 22%
Click to expand...

That's pretty close to the ones I've tested on, but a little closer to the published graph, fortunately.

Having them run from min to max speed from ~20% to ~50% doesn't use much of the controller's span.

It would be nice if it was a wider span, and then speed changes would not be so noticeable.

Glad you got it solved,

Darlene


----------



## skupples

It also runs extremely cool with the heat sink on it. It's reading 7-12c cooler than it use to when I had it w/o the heatsink. I'll definitely be keeping it when I switch to a tube res.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Does anyone know for sure if you can hook up 2 of the Aquacomputer D5 USB pumps via USB and still control them both from the Aquaero 6 and the Aquasuite software? Since there is only 1 Aquabus "High" port on the Aquaero 6 controller, I can't plug it directly into the AQ6 ... or can you "daisy chain" them (like devices on an RS-485 port)?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Does anyone know for sure if you can hook up 2 of the Aquacomputer D5 USB pumps via USB and still control them both from the Aquaero 6 and the Aquasuite software? Since there is only 1 Aquabus "High" port on the Aquaero 6 controller, I can't plug it directly into the AQ6 ... or can you "daisy chain" them (like devices on an RS-485 port)?


You can daisy chain them or you can use the USB it will be controlled by the Aquasuite but will be separate from the others show like 2 completely separate devices if you know what I mean...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You can daisy chain them or you can use the USB it will be controlled by the Aquasuite but will be separate from the others show like 2 completely separate devices if you know what I mean...


So you can daisy chain them?

How? Do you have any wiring diagrams? Or can you just use 4-pin splitters?

I'd much prefer to use the Aquabus port on the AQ6 that way I can control both pumps from there.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Using the PWM version of the D5 will take one of the 4 channels on the A6, if you ran dual PWM D5's, it would still only take the one channel though, as the A6 would only have to supply the PWM signal which it could split to both pumps.
> 
> If you use the very expensive AC version D5, . . . keep in mind that it is not a PWM pump, and will not have the low speed characteristics that make PWM such a standout,
> 
> It is essentially, a D5 Vario, with the manually set potentiometer, (red speed adjuster) replaced by a digital potentiometer to allow for software control.
> 
> It won't run any slower or quieter than a vario.
> 
> It comes down to how many fan channels do you need, and can you spare a channel for the pump(s)?
> 
> Darlene


did you advised me this pwm pump ?
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2901
I think i will run around 16-18 ap 15
Also this flow meter mechanical too?
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> did you advised me this pwm pump ?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2901
> I think i will run around 16-18 ap 15
> Also this flow meter mechanical too?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897


I have that very pump. I'm going to pick up a second for my build (going to run dual pumps). You can control it via the Aquabus port on your Aquaero 5/6 controller, or you can plug it into a USB port and control it that way.

Yes, that flow meter is mechanical. It's just like the one I have, except that the one you just listed has a USB port and Aquabus port.

The non-mechanical ones are "pressure sensors" and are the MPS Flow 100, 200, 400, etc.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Using the PWM version of the D5 will take one of the 4 channels on the A6, if you ran dual PWM D5's, it would still only take the one channel though, as the A6 would only have to supply the PWM signal which it could split to both pumps.
> 
> If you use the very expensive AC version D5, . . . keep in mind that it is not a PWM pump, and will not have the low speed characteristics that make PWM such a standout,
> 
> It is essentially, a D5 Vario, with the manually set potentiometer, (red speed adjuster) replaced by a digital potentiometer to allow for software control.
> 
> It won't run any slower or quieter than a vario.
> 
> It comes down to how many fan channels do you need, and can you spare a channel for the pump(s)?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *did you advised me this pwm pump ?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2901
> *I think i will run around 16-18 ap 15
> Also this flow meter mechanical too?
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897
Click to expand...

That *is not* a PWM pump to be accurate.

It's a good pump that can be interfaced to the A6 in a couple different ways. . . . That can be an advantage for some builds, and may make getting help and support from AC a bit easier.

It is not the pump I would choose for one of my builds, but it would work fine for many / most others.

If you were to get that one, you should be very well satisfied with its setup and performance.

Darlene


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have that very pump. I'm going to pick up a second for my build (going to run dual pumps). You can control it via the Aquabus port on your Aquaero 5/6 controller, or you can plug it into a USB port and control it that way.
> 
> Yes, that flow meter is mechanical. It's just like the one I have, except that the one you just listed has a USB port and Aquabus port.
> 
> The non-mechanical ones are "pressure sensors" and are the MPS Flow 100, 200, 400, etc.


do the pressure sensors do the same job ?
if yes i will get this one:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That *is not* a PWM pump to be accurate.
> 
> It's a good pump that can be interfaced to the A6 in a couple different ways. . . . That can be an advantage for some builds, and may make getting help and support from AC a bit easier.
> 
> It is not the pump I would choose for one of my builds, but it would work fine for many / most others.
> 
> If you were to get that one, you should be very well satisfied with its setup and performance.
> 
> Darlene


which pump would you choose ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> So you can daisy chain them?
> 
> How? Do you have any wiring diagrams? Or can you just use 4-pin splitters?
> 
> I'd much prefer to use the Aquabus port on the AQ6 that way I can control both pumps from there.


You can just use a 4 way or 3 way splitter nothing complicated about it. or if you are going to do them your self just make sure you don't cross wires when making them. make sure wire black goes to 1 on the male and female like this!!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have that very pump. I'm going to pick up a second for my build (going to run dual pumps). You can control it via the Aquabus port on your Aquaero 5/6 controller, or you can plug it into a USB port and control it that way.
> 
> Yes, that flow meter is mechanical. It's just like the one I have, except that the one you just listed has a USB port and Aquabus port.
> 
> The non-mechanical ones are "pressure sensors" and are the MPS Flow 100, 200, 400, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> do the pressure sensors do the same job ?
> if yes i will get this one:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That *is not* a PWM pump to be accurate.
> 
> It's a good pump that can be interfaced to the A6 in a couple different ways. . . . That can be an advantage for some builds, and may make getting help and support from AC a bit easier.
> 
> It is not the pump I would choose for one of my builds, but it would work fine for many / most others.
> 
> If you were to get that one, you should be very well satisfied with its setup and performance.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> which pump would you choose ?
Click to expand...

This is my Go-To pump, I use it whenever I have enough space for it to fit nicely, and I almost always use the Bitspower dual top with it. (them)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36120

When space is more limited, and I can't get dual D5's to fit, my next favorite choice is the smaller, more compact dual 35X's:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=29201

Obviously, I like the PWM pumps, but keep in mind that I'm an electronics nerd and can, (and do) make my own custom PWM controllers, so maybe I have an advantage there.

Keep in mind also, that when running dual pumps, you can run them slower for the same flowrate compared to a single pump, which is definitely favors the PWM pumps with their ability to run much slower and still reliably start compared to a voltage controlled pump.

The A6 will handle the PWM pumps very well, now that it has PWM available on all channels, although
you do have to dedicate a channel to the pump(s) though when using PWM pumps which could be seen as a disadvantage if you really need all 4 for fans.

The A6 can handle the pump you linked without using one of the 4 main channels.

There's lots of possibilities and options, you have to decide which one fits your individual needs and plans the best.

Darlene

Darlene


----------



## HG02

Hi Knuckle Head
I have the same flow meter and its quiet maybe as you have it mount onto your pump it might some how amplify noise


Darlene
When you not to busy I wondered if you have any info on the RGB pin out on the Aquaero 6 I have a couple of Phobya RGB high density LED strips I would like to use. I did also buy the Phobya control unit but would prefer to use the Aquaero 6 if I could but a little worried as I have no info on what the Aquaero RGB pin out can handle







I do have one aqua computer RGB LED which I have inserted into the XSPC Photon reservoir and though of fitting this to the IR pin out on the Aquaero 6 I assume the RGB IR pin out will light up on power up of the PC ? The manual is not really very informative








Temp probes recommendations please
What I have placed so far
1 External temp
2 Internal case temp
3Top Rad core temp
4 Front rad core temp
5 coolant temp senor Precooled
6 Coolant temp sensor after cool temp
7 I have one spare where would you recommend I place it ( don't be rude now







)


----------



## Train Wreck

Hey.....

The computer shop I took my rig parts to tells me that my computer is done and that I can pick it up tomorrow. The only thing is that they did not install the Aquaero because they didn't have fan extension cables.

Will any fan extension cables work?


----------



## ar3f

Is there a way to use a color LCD display: blue/yellow/red for temps chosen by the user, or even preset?
It would look great and easy to notice any issue at a glance.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Hi Knuckle Head
> I have the same flow meter and its quiet maybe as you have it mount onto your pump it might some how amplify noise
> 
> 
> Darlene
> When you not to busy I wondered if you have any info on the RGB pin out on the Aquaero 6 I have a couple of Phobya RGB high density LED strips I would like to use. I did also buy the Phobya control unit but would prefer to use the Aquaero 6 if I could but a little worried as I have no info on what the Aquaero RGB pin out can handle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have one aqua computer RGB LED which I have inserted into the XSPC Photon reservoir and though of fitting this to the IR pin out on the Aquaero 6 I assume the RGB IR pin out will light up on power up of the PC ? The manual is not really very informative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temp probes recommendations please
> What I have placed so far
> 1 External temp
> 2 Internal case temp
> 3Top Rad core temp
> 4 Front rad core temp
> 5 coolant temp senor Precooled
> 6 Coolant temp sensor after cool temp
> 7 I have one spare where would you recommend I place it ( don't be rude now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The RGB header is common cathode, where most led strips are common anode. Also, the header is only meant to control 3 leds or one rgb led. If you wanna use rgb strips with it, you need to use an rgb amp along with a common cathode to common anode converter. There's a cpl threads about it on the AC forums.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/101672-mehrere-led-am-aquaero-reprise/

This thread is pretty much a tutorial to make one that only has one output for an led strip. He gives a .brd & .sch file to use in Eagle if you wanna make one

Also this thread by @jeaks http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-aquaero-led-amp/?s=309caff70fc0997d2d567b4cacecdb82cf102ef3

has one that he sells that has 3 strip outputs. I've been thinking about trying to make one for myself.

This is the one that jeaks sells





Another way to do it would be to use the 2 PWM LED headers and one fan header, having R, G, & B each going to one of the 3 headers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Train Wreck*
> 
> Hey.....
> 
> The computer shop I took my rig parts to tells me that my computer is done and that I can pick it up tomorrow. The only thing is that they did not install the Aquaero because they didn't have fan extension cables.
> 
> Will any fan extension cables work?


Fan extension cables for the fan headers? Yeah the Aquaero fan pinout is the standard. You can use any fan cable

The Aquaero connects to your mobo with a USB header if that's what you meant.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ar3f*
> 
> Is there a way to use a color LCD display: blue/yellow/red for temps chosen by the user, or even preset?
> It would look great and easy to notice any issue at a glance.


Not sure if that's possible, it might be. One way to go about it would be to install a piece of plexi in front of the screen and light up the plexi with the rgb led you can get for the aquaero


----------



## Train Wreck

Yep....fan extension cables NOT the USB cable

Hopefully I can pick them up locally. Don't really want to wait a week or so to get them in but if I have to, I can order them from performance pcs or Frozen CPU


----------



## HG02

In the Aquareo 6 aqua suite soft ware ,when I was going through it the other day it looked like you could set the Aqua computer RGB LED to do a variety of things accordingly to the temp.eg. color changes according to three temps low medium and high temp roughly speaking
I have placed my RGB LED into my Proton Reservoir hoping I can configure it to change color if the temps change . That's how I read the software tomorrow will tell for me. Will fill the loop again and power it up once I finish the wiring tonight. I was hoping to wiring the Phobya RGB's LEDs into the Aquareo but cant at the moment so I just wiring it its own remote.
I have used my last thermal probe , slide it inside the Graphics card water block and have tagged all the thermal probe leads so I can identify all of then when fitting and also help when configuring the soft ware naming the probes , Well that's my theory


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> In the Aquareo 6 aqua suite soft ware ,when I was going through it the other day it looked like you could set the Aqua computer RGB LED to do a variety of things accordingly to the temp.eg. color changes according to three temps low medium and high temp roughly speaking
> I have placed my RGB LED into my Proton Reservoir hoping I can configure it to change color if the temps change . That's how I read the software tomorrow will tell for me. Will fill the loop again and power it up once I finish the wiring tonight. I was hoping to wiring the Phobya RGB's LEDs into the Aquareo but cant at the moment so I just wiring it its own remote.
> I have used my last thermal probe , slide it inside the Graphics card water block and have tagged all the thermal probe leads so I can identify all of then when fitting and also help when configuring the soft ware naming the probes , Well that's my theory


do you use the temp.probes that come from aq6?


----------



## kpoeticg

You can definitely change the RGB colors according to temps or anything else in the aquaero. That's the main reason for having the rgb header. Keep in mind, there's always the workaround to control rgb strips if you don't mind sacrificing both 2pin led pwm headers & 1 fan header.

Or you can just mount something like this on your rig if you just don't wanna have to rely on the remote



There's tons of things like that between ebay and amazon.

Also, if you're gonna mount a temp probe on a waterblock, might as well just get an inline temp sensor fitting like a Phobya or Aquacomputer one. You should be able to get the actual GPU temp through a software virtual sensor through aquasuite


----------



## Train Wreck

Any ideas where I should mount those temp probes that came with the Aquaero?


----------



## kpoeticg

They're good for measuring external and internal chassis temps. You can also mount em on random components like HD's and anything else you want the temp of.

You can really mount em anywhere, i just think if you're gonna try to measure the temp of a waterblock, might as well use a temp sensor fitting instead. Also like i said, you can get virtual temp readings of things like CPU and GPU's through windows & aquasuite


----------



## VSG

Don't these usually come with tape to mount them though?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, yellow adhesive


----------



## VSG

I don't think mine have any adhesive that I can see. Not a big problem though.


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do you use the temp.probes that come from aq6?


Yes I have as written above
I wasted a whole day I ordered some LEDS strips with a controller online @ my local PC retailer as most of the stock pickers had a sickie because of Christmas had to wait till around 4 pm to pick up the parts. I get home and start fitting the LEDS strips and found both LED strips had loose wires held in by silicone not solider I should have had more sense as I purchase some one into 6 fan cables a while ago made by the same company there still in my draw as the quality was just junk.








I have always believed you get what you pay for. , Should have taken my own advice Only trouble down here (australia) is finding parts its a pain. You builders in USA are so lucky to have good suppliers
can some one recommend good quality LED strips and perhaps a controller ?








I don't usually do lighting but this build is for my son who has been away doing volunteer work over the past twelve months . He went through the typhoon in Samar recently just came back a few days ago . I thought Id spoil him a little with this build

I was thinking of NZXT LEDS or Bitfenix LEDS has any one used them or recommend


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You can definitely change the RGB colors according to temps or anything else in the aquaero. That's the main reason for having the rgb header. Keep in mind, there's always the workaround to control rgb strips if you don't mind sacrificing both 2pin led pwm headers & 1 fan header.
> 
> Or you can just mount something like this on your rig if you just don't wanna have to rely on the remote
> 
> 
> There's tons of things like that between ebay and amazon.
> 
> Also, if you're gonna mount a temp probe on a waterblock, might as well just get an inline temp sensor fitting like a Phobya or Aqua computer one. You should be able to get the actual GPU temp through a software virtual sensor through aquasuite


Im using two of these 
and had 7 aqua computer temp probes thought Id use them up while I was wiring up the Aquareo 6 I have had it running but didn't take much notice where I put the temp probes into the Aquareo and knew I had to redo it later so this time wrote it all down and tagged the probe wires. It gets a little mess up there with so many wires








I have only been using the free down load for mother board temps not adia64 which Ill buy shortly . My GTX 780 TI was out of stock only picked it up a few days ago been running on the mother board graphics still I power it up tomorrow
A little up date this morning
I power up the Aquaero 6 to check my aqua computer RGB led and it s working fine inside the bottom of the Photon reservoir light up the res nicely only in blue at the moment have to config later in the aqua computer software
I pull the Lighting RGB controller leads apart and rewired it sleeved it moved it to a place that's reasonably hidden and will remove the plugs on the led strips so they will not fall out and have bad connections . One strip Ill take back and spend time making it so I'm happier than last night


----------



## skupples

My brother got me one of these for X-mas. One end is left open, i'm assuming so you can mod it for Molex power to get rid of the 12v wall cable.



the one I got is a cut-able 16 foot variant.


----------



## suicidegybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The RGB header is common cathode, where most led strips are common anode. Also, the header is only meant to control 3 leds or one rgb led. If you wanna use rgb strips with it, you need to use an rgb amp along with a common cathode to common anode converter. There's a cpl threads about it on the AC forums.
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/101672-mehrere-led-am-aquaero-reprise/
> This thread is pretty much a tutorial to make one that only has one output for an led strip. He gives a .brd & .sch file to use in Eagle if you wanna make one
> Also this thread by @jeaks http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-aquaero-led-amp/?s=309caff70fc0997d2d567b4cacecdb82cf102ef3
> has one that he sells that has 3 strip outputs. I've been thinking about trying to make one for myself.
> This is the one that jeaks sells
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another way to do it would be to use the 2 PWM LED headers and one fan header, having R, G, & B each going to one of the 3 headers
> 
> Fan extension cables for the fan headers? Yeah the Aquaero fan pinout is the standard. You can use any fan cable
> The Aquaero connects to your mobo with a USB header if that's what you meant.
> 
> Not sure if that's possible, it might be. One way to go about it would be to install a piece of plexi in front of the screen and light up the plexi with the rgb led you can get for the aquaero


Do you know how to purchase one? This is exactly what I need.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suicidegybe*
> 
> Do you know how to purchase one? This is exactly what I need.


Yeah, my German stinks. I was trying to figure out how to buy one myself.


----------



## suicidegybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, my German stinks. I was trying to figure out how to buy one myself.


I got it, you just need to PM Jeaks on the other forum. It's all German so you might have to take your time and write it in German like I did. Finally my high school German came in handy. Lol.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suicidegybe*
> 
> I got it, you just need to PM Jeaks on the other forum. It's all German so you might have to take your time and write it in German like I did. Finally my high school German came in handy. Lol.


Good to know. +Rep

May I ask about how much he charged?


----------



## kpoeticg

I used Google translate to read to the tutorial thread that DrDeath did and Jeaks thread. I think i read that jeaks charges like 35euros. I'd love to see if he just sells the blank PCB


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> How did you separate the stock face plate from the PCB? Feels like they are glued together.
> 
> NVM, just N,S,W,E'ed it.
> 
> So, black screws or stock screws?


Damn looks like i shall get one of these babies soon!


----------



## skupples

Just be aware that the black face plate is much thinner than the stock face plate, so it warps easily.


----------



## suicidegybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Good to know. +Rep
> 
> May I ask about how much he charged?


I will let you know waiting on his answer.


----------



## HG02

The Aquaero RGB led is in my Resevoir worked out fine the rgb strips worked ok and fitted it after many hours work it looks like a Ozzie fish and chip shop front window
Google translate to read to the tutorial thread that DrDeath did and Jeaks thread. I think i read that jeaks charges like 35euros. I'd love to see if he just sells the blank PCB
[/quote]
Freetronics sell kits with a Arduino board included freetronics.com










I was thinking about this and thought you should be able to utilize your start button wires .lets say you add two wires at your PC start Button and run it to your Aquareo 6 then add it to the Aquaero so the remote powers up your PC rather than add the 24 pin extension cable.
I am not sure where the extension lead plugs into the Aquaero yet or how it actually works









With out reading the Aquaero bible it looks like you could add a relay and configure it to switch on for 2 seconds


----------



## suicidegybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Good to know. +Rep
> 
> May I ask about how much he charged?


I spoke to him this morning and he said 18 euros for the board and 6.50 for shipping. He also said he could supply custom length RGB LED strips ready to use with it.

I will post a pic when I get it.


----------



## SinatraFan

Did you see this yet?

Passive cooling back plate for Aquaero 6


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suicidegybe*
> 
> I spoke to him this morning and he said 18 euros for the board and 6.50 for shipping. He also said he could supply custom length RGB LED strips ready to use with it.
> 
> I will post a pic when I get it.


Awesome, thanks.

I'll have to contact him.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Did you see this yet?
> 
> Passive cooling back plate for Aquaero 6


Nice. That could be cool (pun intended) to get as well.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, that's awesome. Not sure how much it's needed, but pretty sure i'll be grabbing one


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn, that's awesome. Not sure how much it's needed, but pretty sure i'll be grabbing one


Hopefully FrozenCPU and Performance PC will carry it.

I only wish it came in black. That would match more builds.


----------



## kpoeticg

It's a brand new accessory for the Aquaero 6. Of course FCPU & PPC will carry it









I personally like the red, but just cuz it matches my build.

The only stuff that doesn't get stocked everywhere (as far as I can tell) is old products that don't have much demand anymore, like the Multiswitch LT for instance


----------



## DooRules

Bought the Aquaero 6 XT to run both my rads.

Both rads have scythe typhoon fans, 4250 rpm versions. This unit does not seem capable of running either rad at full power, or even worse both rads at the same time. One rad has 3 fans and the other has 4 fans. I get current error, software crash's, so far.

I tried each rad connected to different fan headers but it only ever shows as one whole unit in software, but cannot give me rpm's. I do have a sliding bar to move fan speed up or down but it seems very limited.

Shop I bought it from says I have to further break down the fan hookups, 2-2 and 3 on headers. Even with just the 3 fan rad hooked up it does not seem right.

Told shop I wanted to rma it and got this story about how it's not a good idea, has to be shipped back to Germany to be checked out. Told him I don't care if it takes a year but he is getting it back.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the AP-30's actually have PWM capability if you feel comfortable enough to solder a single wire, you could run them ALL off a single fan header. AP-29,30,31 all have a 4th solder pad that you can use to run them PWM. That way the Aquaero wouldn't have to power the fans, you can connect em str8 to the PSU and have the Aquaero just reading rpm and sending PWM pulse signal to control the speed

Alot of places like PerformancePCs for instance sell them with the 4th wire already soldered and crimped into a 4Pin connector.


----------



## DooRules

Never used solder myself and surely wasn't even considering having to do something like this to get 7 fans to run.

I have both rads back on my 5 year old koolance pump fan controller combo. Pump is disconnected and all fans are on one header and can be fully adjusted up and down.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well, the AQ6 is rated 2.5A per channel if you don't use the new backplate and waterblock

The AP-30's are Rated Current: 0.56A

So you should be able to get away with 4 per channel fairly comfortably. But one of the main attractions of the AQ6 is that you can use PWM functionality on all 4 fan channels.

I'm not sure what the minimum voltage is for AP-30's, but at 0.56A they seem pretty power hungry. That could be your issue voltage controlling em. The fans themselves might need more power than your giving em. That's one of the benefits of PWM.

Edit: in other words, the fans might not be capable of running at the speeds your wanting them to without PWM control. I'm just guessing since i don't know their min voltage

It doesn't make much sense tho that 2 fan headers are showing up as one. Maybe you just need to upgrade aquasuite and your firmware??

You should try creating a thread on the Aquacomputer forums or just wait til people smarter than me are around.


----------



## IT Diva

Given the load capacity of the A6, and the max current pull from the AP-30's, there should not be an issue with 3 on a channel, and it should be able to do 4.

The 0.56A draw of the fan at 12V works out to right at ~7W.

One thing to check on . . . . How have you got them wired up . .

You can only have 1 tach signal wire per header.

You can not wire multiple fan tach wires together.

To troubleshoot your issues, I'd disconnect all the fans from the extensions/splitters already wired thru the case, and run each one individually, one at a time, from each header with a separate and tested extension. Fan extension cables and splitter cables are notorious sources of gremlins.

You'll find out if each fan is OK, and also if maybe you have one bad header.

It usually turns out that when someone has fan control issues with reputable controllers, it's something other than the controller.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

^^One of those smarter people i told u to wait for =)


----------



## skupples

also make sure you have the header set to the proper signal type. They can run in three modes

power
speed
pwm


----------



## DooRules

Thanks for the tips people. I have it all ironed out now. I have one 3 fan rad on header #1. I split the 4 fan rad into two separate 2 fan configs wiring wise so no chance now of hitting an over current error, they are on headers 2 and 3. I did have to disconnect some of the yellow wires on the fans as they were all hooked up and this was preventing the reading of rpm's.

On header 4 I have my AP15 that takes care of the mosfets.

Software is a lot to get my head around but looks like fun to learn, happy camper here.









Don't have any drive bays so I had to improvise to mount it...


----------



## gdubc

Has anyone had any issues running Corsair sp120 pwm fans off the aquaero?


----------



## VSG

Nope, they work great. I got both the QE and PE versions too.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Haven't even finished my current build yet and I want to start a new one using this controller. (Current build is using an aquaero 5 lt.) New build will have 6 voltage controlled fans. 9 or 18 akasa vipers on pwm. Two aquacomputer d5 pumps (Will use aquabus) 1 MPS flow sensor. My main concern is about being able to run all three of these off the aquaero. The high flow MPS sensor has a four pin aquabus connector. The two aquabus d5's also have 4 pin aquabus connectors (though I've only seen them connected using 3 wire connectors in reviews, whats the fourth pin for?) How would I connect these to one aquaero 6?


----------



## SinatraFan

I've got a quick question. I saw this brought up on the water cooling thread and thought I would post it here...

I have (4) of these...



I plan to hook up all my fans to these and then subsequently connect each one of these to a channel on the A6. Will this work or will I run into problems?


----------



## VSG

How will you connect it to the Aquaero? I don't see any RPM output. I am not sure if there are molex to 4-pin adapters that provide variable power.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How will you connect it to the Aquaero? I don't see any RPM output. I am not sure if there are molex to 4-pin adapters that provide variable power.


My fans are all 3 pin. I thought they were still controllable via the A6. Am I wrong?


----------



## SinatraFan

and I'm actually using this one...



8*3pin


----------



## kpoeticg

If you have a molex => 3Pin adapter, all youd have to do is pick any one of the 8 fans plugged into the PCB, pull the RPM wire out of the fan connector, put it in the molex -> 3 Pin, and you'll have rpm feedback


----------



## seross69

you can make a cable using a 3 pin fan female connector and then this would work fine!!


----------



## SinatraFan

Looking at the back of the board...



You can see that only two pins are live to the Molex input. So could I simply solder a wire from the unused pin on the first 3 pin terminal closest to the molex connector to the third pin in the molex connector... then add a wire to my molex to 3 pin adapter... should that work?


----------



## kpoeticg

A Molex pinout is 12v | Ground | Ground | 5v

A fan header is Ground | 12V | RPM

The RPM wires connecting to your PCB are going nowhere. You simply need to take the RPM wire/pin out of *ONE* of the fan connectors and insert it into the connector connecting to your fan channel.

What you're talking about will not work. Only one fan can send RPM feedback to any given fan channel. Otherwise your fan controller will get crazy random feedback. It's really simple to do what I'm recommending

Since the 3rd wire on a fan connector is RPM and the 3rd wire on a Molex is Ground, No Molex -> 3Pin adapter should have a 3rd wire on it.


----------



## SinatraFan

Understood


----------



## SeeThruHead

For anyone else who is looking to do what sinatra is doing, you use this adapter. Then you remove the yellow wire from just one fan (the rpm sense wire, pin 3) and insert it into the unused slot of the fan connector (pin 3 of the adaptor.)


----------



## ozzy1925

can we connect 2 x aquabus d5 pumps and 1 x aquabus flowsensor to aq 6?


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> can we connect 2 x aquabus d5 pumps and 1 x aquabus flowsensor to aq 6?


Yes you can. Connect the D5s with an Aquacomputer splitter to the "high" connector and the flow sensor to the 1st PWM connector on the Aquaero 6. You should configure them in the Aquacomputer software via USB first, disconnect the PC from the wall and then connect them to the Aquaero 6


----------



## SeeThruHead

Does that also work for the aqua bus flow sensors?


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Does that also work for the aqua bus flow sensors?


Yes sir!


----------



## Goggle Eye

I am on the fence about purchasing the Aquero 6 mainly due to my lack of understanding the German Language and I am not real Techy Tech. This is pretty long and I appologise. Probably need to do more reading it gets pretty confusing. help would be greatly appreciated. really wish Aqua Computer would post the instaltion guide for down load in various language versions. The cost of interpretation can get pretty pricy.

Need to get the order correct the first time since everything has to be imported.

Off the subject from Aquaero but please help. Only used Distilled water and 2 Kill Koils. EK blocks and EVGA 580 Hydros. Bitspower fittings. Dual Loops.

My water cooling hardware is 4 years old basically consist of 2 x Black Ice SR-1 Rads and 2 x Swiftech pumps Uber 655s from PPC. Should I replace the pumps and rads because of age? The cooling loop has been taken apart 1 time per year for maintenance and replaced all the O rings, tubing and coolant. (Distilled Water).

Orderd a CaseLabs Case Magnum 8 _ 7 days ago.

Going to install at least 2 x 120.3 rads possibly another 120.2 or 120.3 rad. Have not decided yet on the third rad depend on a few things how it will fit in the case should not be an issue.

Need to clean up the new build. Planning on doing a single loop and using a Bits Power Mod top for 2 x D5 pumps.

Going to place a order with PPC and order fans, Mod Top, want to order the Aquaero Pro 6 and some other cooling hardware and coolant. Leave out the Kill Koils and use premix coolant.

Aquaero Pro 6 have read a lot of reviews cant get this thru my thick head. have to order new fans Looking at Nochtua fans or NB-PL-2

I want to monitor Flow rate and temperatures 1 before entering the Radiators and 1 after the Radiators is this the correct orientation for the temperature probes?

Flow rate sensors. How can I figure out the flow rate on the single loop prior to building the loop. You have to order the correct flow rate sensor for the system. Will this work on the Aquaroi Pro 6?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=218&products_id=36085

Planning on water cooling the Aquero Pro 6 do you use this block? I thought they were coming out with a new block for the Pro 6.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=218&products_id=30599

In order to connect the fans should I use a Swiftech PWM splitter need at least 2 maybe 3? This I do not understand. if the power goes to the splitter from the PSU. The PWM goes to the Aquaero Pro 6 from the channel 1 on the PWM splitter how can the Aquero Pro 6 control the fan speed? It cant since the power is coming from the PSU to the splitter. I need to hook up the PWM splitter to three channels on the the Aquaero Pro 6 my concern is burning up the Aquero Pro 6 from to much voltage or amps. = 17 fans on three channels.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=48&products_id=38706

I really like the Uber Pumps this is what I prefer to use. I would just run the RPM wire from the pump to one channel on the Aquero Pro 6? If I do it this way then I need one channel for each pump? From what I have read may be mistaken Swiftech does not recommend using a PWM on the pumps to slow down the pump RPM?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=30192

In order to run 2 x pumps on the Aquero Pro 6 both pumps needs to go to the same channel on the Aquaero Pro 6? Need to run the same RPM then if one pump quits working it will not indicate the pumps is not functioning? Again the power for the pumps has to be powerd by the Aquaero Pro 6.


----------



## WiSK

Dude, this is a news thread. There's a water cooling subforum here for your questions, and the Aquacomputer forum also has an English section









Nevertheless I'll try to help:
- No you don't need to replace rads or pumps because of age if they have been regularly maintained.
- You can measure temps at radiator in and out, but you'll find it's not a useful measurement. The interesting measurement is the difference between your ambient air temperature and either your coolant temperature (at any point in loop) or your CPU/GPU temps.
- I don't know about flow rate sensors.
- You don't need to water cool the Aquaero 6, you can ask PPCs if they will order the passive heatsink for you.
- The Aquaero 6 provides PWM signal via the fourth fan pin, not by modulating the voltage. So you need PWM enabled fans with 4 pins. If you have that, then the Aquaero only needs to send the PWM signal and receive the RPM pulse (pins 3 and 4); it does not need to provide the 12V/ground, so that can come directly from the PSU. The fans you mention NB-PL-2 are not PWM enabled, so the PWM signal will do nothing and they would be voltage controlled. In that case the Swiftech PWM splitter is not the solution, you should just use 3 pin splitters.
- The Über pumps do not appear to be PWM pumps, so you need two channels to read the RPMs independently. If you won't have enough channels, you might consider getting separate Power Adjust units for each pump. That gives you extra channels and they can be controlled by the AQ6 as well.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Yes you can. Connect the D5s with an Aquacomputer splitter to the "high" connector and the flow sensor to the 1st PWM connector on the Aquaero 6. You should configure them in the Aquacomputer software via USB first, disconnect the PC from the wall and then connect them to the Aquaero 6


if i do that way am i able to control the pumps speed etc. with aq6 xt or just with the aquacomputer software?


----------



## NYMD

Since the 6 has no standby plug, this is not compatible, correct?

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/aquaero_power_connect_cable_24_pin_atx_standby_power_atx_break/


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if i do that way am i able to control the pumps speed etc. with aq6 xt or just with the aquacomputer software?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if i do that way am i able to control the pumps speed etc. with aq6 xt or just with the aquacomputer software?


Everything will be controlled by the Aquaero 6. You just need to connect the pump via USB first so the Aquaero correctly recognizes you have 2 pumps connected to it.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I have a question about 3-pin vs 4-pin fans and the AQ6.

I know that the AQ6 can control both, but I am unable to find out the power details about the Cougar 3-pin fans (ie how many watts per fan they need) so I can see if the AQ6 has enough "umph" to drive them all. I've sent an email to Cougar tech support, but haven't gotten a response in over 2 weeks.

I was thinking about putting 8 of these on one channel: COUGAR CF-V12H Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing (Fluid) 300,000 Hours 12CM Silent Cooling Fan
8 more of the same on another channel.
Finally 3 of these on the third channel: COUGAR CF-V14H Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing (Fluid) 300,000 Hours 14CM Silent Cooling Fan

I'm just wondering if I should just sell the 3-pin fans and go with about $290 worth of PWM 4-pin fans instead (8 per channel), using these fans: COUGAR CF-V12HP Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing (Fluid) 300,000 Hours 12CM Silent Cooling Fan with Pulse Width Modulation

I'd rather not spend the money, but are PWM fans really "all that" when using an AQ6, assuming that there is enough power to run 8 of the 3-pin fans per channel?

I see where the AQ6 can control 30 watts per channel. At 12 Volts, that is a total of 2.5 Amps. I doubt that each of the 8 fans would pull 0.3125 Amps, but I'm not sure. I know the start up current on Gentle Typhoon AP-15's is 0.36A (but the operating current is 0.083A), so maybe it will be close.

Thoughts?

Never mind, apparently I rattled the right cage. I just got a call back and was told from Cougar that the start up current on the CF-V12H is 0.2 Amps, which means that each fan will draw 2.4 Watts per fan ... so 8 of them will only be 19.2 Watts ... well below the AQ6's 30 Watt maximum.


----------



## inoran81

It's here....



AQ6 passive heat sink and water block



Nice engraved - sweet!!



A picture worth a thousand words....for this company



As always, thanks Sven for expediting my delivery!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> if i do that way am i able to control the pumps speed etc. with aq6 xt or just with the aquacomputer software?


you can control the pumps either way!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> can we connect 2 x aquabus d5 pumps and 1 x aquabus flowsensor to aq 6?


Yes the Aquasuite will see them as MIPS devices and you can connect 4 of these to the Aquaero using the Aquabus
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Yes you can. Connect the D5s with an Aquacomputer splitter to the "high" connector and the flow sensor to the 1st PWM connector on the Aquaero 6. You should configure them in the Aquacomputer software via USB first, disconnect the PC from the wall and then connect them to the Aquaero 6


you would connect all of them to the Aquabus.. Yes you need to update the firmware using the usb connection on the D5's before you connect them to the Aquaero. The Aquabus flow sensor would also be connected to the aquabus not the 1st PMW connection...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Everything will be controlled by the Aquaero 6. You just need to connect the pump via USB first so the Aquaero correctly recognizes you have 2 pumps connected to it.


I am not 100% sure you are right here all I did was update the firmware using the USB on each pump and then connect them to the Aquaero aquabus with the USB disconnected. I did not configure anything on the pumps in the Aquasuite. it see's these pumps as MIPS devices!!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

Don't you have to change the number if using more than 1? I know that's what the manual said if using more than one poweradjust, you have to hook them up via usb and change the number. Don't know if that applies also to MPS devices though.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Don't you have to change the number if using more than 1? I know that's what the manual said if using more than one poweradjust, you have to hook them up via usb and change the number. Don't know if that applies also to MPS devices though.


this is what it says about the D5 pumps from the manual.
Quote:


> 15.2. D5 pumps connected via aquabus
> For D5 pumps connected to the aquaero by aquabus connection, a name
> can be set and the output range can be limited in both directions ("Minimum
> power"/"Maximum power"). D5 pumps connected via aquabus can not be
> switched off, a pump "power" of 0 % corresponds to the minimum speed setting
> of the pump.
> Please note: D5 pumps connected to a fan output will be controlled as a
> "fan" and can be switched off by the aquaero.


where did you see this about the power adjust?? I have not been able to find it??


----------



## SeeThruHead

"11.5. aquabus configuration
Before connecting poweradjust 2 devices to an aquaero 5 controller, each poweradjust
2 device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. You may
skip this step if only one poweradjust 2 device is connected to an aquaero 5. Addresses
50 through 57 are available for poweradjust 2 devices."

From the poweradjust manual. It say to configure to an aquabus address. So I thought that applied to all aquabus devices.

EDIT:
Example post
Quote:


> As I said the flow port on the Aquero is for a different device.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294
> 
> The MPS devices use 4 pin Aquabus and you connect them to the Aquabus high port on the Aquaero
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2846
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2847
> 
> You have 3 MPS devices ( the USB pumps are MPS as well) so you can connect them all via USB or after they are set up you can connect them all via 4 pin aquabus cable to the aquabus high port on the aquaero. To do that you need two of the Aquabus 4 pin splitter cables. Each MPS device needs to be connected via USB first and given an individual aquabus address, your two USB pumps will have the same address by default so one will need to be changed.
> 
> This is one of my D5 USB and you can see its aquabus address is the default 12 ... you have 2 of them and they will be both set to 12 ... one needs to be changed to 13
> 
> The Recon is only PWM capable on the fan header number 4, if you connect your fans to it it will work but not on the other three. It also needs to be configured to PWM control in the aquero's aquasuite tab under fans / fan four advanced settings.
> 
> Edited by Jakusonfire - 2/4/13 at 10:45pm


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> "11.5. aquabus configuration
> Before connecting poweradjust 2 devices to an aquaero 5 controller, each poweradjust
> 2 device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. You may
> skip this step if only one poweradjust 2 device is connected to an aquaero 5. Addresses
> 50 through 57 are available for poweradjust 2 devices."
> 
> From the poweradjust manual. It say to configure to an aquabus address. So I thought that applied to all aquabus devices.
> 
> EDIT:
> Example post


thank you so much for this and I stand corrected I had missed this somehow. I am sure glad to know I have not set everything up exactly just 1 or 2 items at a time so I was unaware of this. I do not think you have to do this with the MIPS devices though. thank you again..


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> It's here....
> 
> 
> 
> AQ6 passive heat sink and water block
> 
> 
> 
> Nice engraved - sweet!!
> 
> 
> 
> A picture worth a thousand words....for this company
> 
> 
> 
> As always, thanks Sven for expediting my delivery!!


Very nice. I've been waiting for Frozen or PPCs to get the heat sink @ US (Aquacomputer wants 33 euros and 14 days for shipping and it's "kind" of excessive IMHO - Aquatuning sends stuff to the US for 15 euros in 3 days)


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i'm waiting for either FCPU or PPC or even Aquatuning for the Heatsink and 290x Active Backplate right now as well. My cart on Aquacomputer was like 60 euros to get shipped UPS and like 35 euros for 14 day DHL delivery.

I figure in 14 days hopefully they'll both be available for retail anyway =P


----------



## gdubc

Aaaahh yeeaahhh!! Coming soon at *frozencpu*


----------



## kpoeticg

SWEET!!!









Now i just need the active 290x backplate to pop up.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Aaaahh yeeaahhh!! Coming soon at *frozencpu*


AAAhhhhhh Yessssss, and another $50 worth spending on my obsession . . . .
















On another front, I ordered a Dimestech EasyXL tech bench so I can have my R4BE all set up with the RAID0 SSDs, OS, and all 4 GPU's already to go once installed into the stretch build, but more importantly, . . . . .

Since I have 6 PWM D5's, (3 pairs) that I want to be able to alternately control from one of the AQ6's, I ordered another pair of PWM D5's to duplicate my pump setups in my res/pump modules so I can be sure they control properly from the AQ6, and if not, determine why not, and design a solution.

As many of you know, the PWM D5 is my favorite pump, and I have done a good bit of work in creating custom PWM controllers:





Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> SWEET!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i just need the active 290x backplate to pop up.


be careful with those buddy. Iv'e read allot of leak issues with those things.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> SWEET!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i just need the active 290x backplate to pop up.
> 
> 
> 
> be careful with those buddy. Iv'e read allot of leak issues with those things.
Click to expand...

And apparently some clearance issues with the memory lock tabs on some mobos . . .

D.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And apparently some clearance issues with the memory lock tabs on some mobos . . .
> 
> D.


specially the new rampage black edition.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> AAAhhhhhh Yessssss, and another $50 worth spending on my obsession . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another front, I ordered a Dimestech EasyXL tech bench so I can have my R4BE all set up with the RAID0 SSDs, OS, and all 4 GPU's already to go once installed into the stretch build, but more importantly, . . . . .
> 
> Since I have 6 PWM D5's, (3 pairs) that I want to be able to alternately control from one of the AQ6's, I ordered another pair of PWM D5's to duplicate my pump setups in my res/pump modules so I can be sure they control properly from the AQ6, and if not, determine why not, and design a solution.
> 
> As many of you know, the PWM D5 is my favorite pump, and I have done a good bit of work in creating custom PWM controllers:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Yeah your work logs with PWM controllers are pretty insane. Too bad martin retired before he really did anything with that sweet controller setup you built for him =\

Did you test the D5 PWM's with the Aquaero? You didn't say.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> be careful with those buddy. Iv'e read allot of leak issues with those things.


Really? The 290x version with active backplate? I heard there were some issue's with the Kryographics Titan Block, nothing about the 290x block tho. Any chance you have a link? The block's en route to my apt. Getting delivered on Thursday =\

The Kryographics is by far my favorite 290x block so i really hope you're confusing it with the Titan blcok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And apparently some clearance issues with the memory lock tabs on some mobos . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> specially the new rampage black edition.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I already know i'm gonna have to mod the dimm slot levers to fit the Active Backplate in slot 1. Not a huge deal


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah your work logs with PWM controllers are pretty insane. Too bad martin retired before he really did anything with that sweet controller setup you built for him =\
> Did you test the D5 PWM's with the Aquaero? You didn't say.
> 
> Really? The 290x version with active backplate? I heard there were some issue's with the Kryographics Titan Block, nothing about the 290x block tho. Any chance you have a link? The block's en route to my apt. Getting delivered on Thursday =\
> 
> The Kryographics is by far my favorite 290x block so i really hope you're confusing it with the Titan blcok
> 
> Yeah, I already know i'm gonna have to mod the dimm slot levers to fit the Active Backplate in slot 1. Not a huge deal


The statement is made towards the back plate, which is basically identical to the titan's back plate. I have not heard/read any stories about it happening with 290's, but I also don't spend much time in the red threads. I'm sure it will be non-issue. The leak normally forms in the link, where the heat pipe goes into said unit. I don't know these people very well, for all I know they didn't screw it in all the way, or they dropped it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> On another front, I ordered a Dimestech EasyXL tech bench so I can have my R4BE all set up with the RAID0 SSDs, OS, and all 4 GPU's already to go once installed into the stretch build, but more importantly, . . . . .
> 
> Since I have 6 PWM D5's, (3 pairs) that I want to be able to alternately control from one of the AQ6's, I ordered another pair of PWM D5's to duplicate my pump setups in my res/pump modules so I can be sure they control properly from the AQ6, and if not, determine why not, and design a solution.
> 
> As many of you know, the PWM D5 is my favorite pump, and I have done a good bit of work in creating custom PWM controllers:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PiCS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah your work logs with PWM controllers are pretty insane. Too bad martin retired before he really did anything with that sweet controller setup you built for him =\
> *Did you test the D5 PWM's with the Aquaero? You didn't say.*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> be careful with those buddy. Iv'e read allot of leak issues with those things.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Really? The 290x version with active backplate? I heard there were some issue's with the Kryographics Titan Block, nothing about the 290x block tho. Any chance you have a link? The block's en route to my apt. Getting delivered on Thursday =\
> 
> The Kryographics is by far my favorite 290x block so i really hope you're confusing it with the Titan blcok
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And apparently some clearance issues with the memory lock tabs on some mobos . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> specially the new rampage black edition.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, I already know i'm gonna have to mod the dimm slot levers to fit the Active Backplate in slot 1. Not a huge deal
Click to expand...

Not yet, . . . .

That's part of why I ordered the tech bench and another pair of PWM D5's.

I really want to test with my actual setup, where I can connect up the scope and see what's going on with the pulse train regarding voltage levels against the negative rail and degradation due to any loading effects and so on.

If I had to offer an unsubstantiated, premature guess, I'd be looking first at the way the D5 runs at 60% with no PWM signal, as opposed to 100% as a loading factor on the A6's output.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The statement is made towards the back plate, which is basically identical to the titan's back plate. I have not heard/read any stories about it happening with 290's, but I also don't spend much time in the red threads. I'm sure it will be non-issue. The leak normally forms in the link, where the heat pipe goes into said unit. I don't know these people very well, for all I know they didn't screw it in all the way, or they dropped it.


Thanx for the quick response.

Yeah i've seen people talking about the Titan issue a few times. I'm hoping/assuming (maybe foolishly?) that they worked out the kinks for the 290x version. I heard that there was only a handful of instances with the Titan version, so i'm hoping it's a non-issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not yet, . . . .
> 
> That's part of why I ordered the tech bench and another pair of PWM D5's.
> 
> I really want to test with my actual setup, where I can connect up the scope and see what's going on with the pulse train regarding voltage levels against the negative rail and degradation due to any loading effects and so on.
> 
> If I had to offer an unsubstantiated, premature guess, I'd be looking first at the way the D5 runs at 60% with no PWM signal, as opposed to 100% as a loading factor on the A6's output.
> 
> Darlene


Well, looking forward to your results as usual.

I apologize for putting you on blast here, but i bet if OCN took a vote about who martins successor should be, i could predict the outcome









I volunteer to get a tin-cup panhandling thread started to get the domain registered for DarlenesLiquidLab.com.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx for the quick response.
> Yeah i've seen people talking about the Titan issue a few times. I'm hoping/assuming (maybe foolishly?) that they worked out the kinks for the 290x version. I heard that there was only a handful of instances with the Titan version, so i'm hoping it's a non-issue.
> 
> Well, looking forward to your results as usual.
> I apologize for putting you on blast here, but i bet if OCN took a vote about who martins successor should be, i could predict the outcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I volunteer to get a tin-cup panhandling thread started to get the domain registered for DarlenesLiquidLab.com.


that would be a curse and a lot of work.. But fun...


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed =P

That's why i apologized b4 i said it. There's definitely a hole that could use filling in the WC scene tho. And Darlene definitely has the knowledge and experience to take over. Not really expecting her to volunteer. Just planting the seed


----------



## LCRava

I understand this might have been asked before, but can someone please chime in on this:

I have the Aquacomputer USB tubemeter and this cable to connect it to the Aquaero 6: (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1969).

Which 3 pin connector should I use on the Aquaero 6 to connect it to the tubemeter (the only 3 pin connectors I see are for flow and RPM)?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> I understand this might have been asked before, but can someone please chime in on this:
> 
> I have the Aquacomputer USB tubemeter and this cable to connect it to the Aquaero 6: (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1969).
> 
> Which 3 pin connector should I use on the Aquaero 6 to connect it to the tubemeter (the only 3 pin connectors I see are for flow and RPM)?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


It is connected to the low speed Aquabus


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> It is connected to the low speed Aquabus


Thanks for the reply, but can you please elaborate...

The low speed Aquabus input on the Aquaero is a 4 pin input and the cable has a 5 pin that connects to the tubemeter, a molex female power input that connects to the PSU and a 3 pin connector for the Aquaero 6







.

The only cable I received with the tubemeter was an USB cable to connect the tubemeter straight to the Motherboard and I bought this one that supposedly connects to the Aquaero 6...


----------



## SeeThruHead

The aqua bus uses both 3 pin and 4 pin cables depending on the device it's connecting to.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, but can you please elaborate...
> 
> The low speed Aquabus input on the Aquaero is a 4 pin input and the cable has a 5 pin that connects to the tubemeter, a molex female power input that connects to the PSU and a 3 pin connector for the Aquaero 6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The only cable I received with the tubemeter was an USB cable to connect the tubemeter straight to the Motherboard and I bought this one that supposedly connects to the Aquaero 6...


you hook the 3 pin to the low speed aquabus and the molex to your PSU, What this does is allow the data to be communicated with the Aquaero and the Molex connector provides the +5v and - that it is missing not using the USB...

The Aquabus can be 3 or 4 pin depending on if it is providing any power to the attached item.

I hope this clarifies this for you????


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you hook the 3 pin to the low speed aquabus and the molex to your PSU, What this does is allow the data to be communicated with the Aquaero and the Molex connector provides the +5v and - that it is missing not using the USB...
> 
> The Aquabus can be 3 or 4 pin depending on if it is providing any power to the attached item.
> 
> I hope this clarifies this for you????


I think I got it. I would connect the 3 pin cable to the 4 pin connector on the Aquaero 6 and just not use 1 of the 4 pins, correct?


----------



## VSG

That's right!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> I think I got it. I would connect the 3 pin cable to the 4 pin connector on the Aquaero 6 and just not use 1 of the 4 pins, correct?


yes that is correct one of the pins on the Aquaero will not be used but make sure you connect the molex also.

one other thing you need to do is have the Aquasuite installed in your computer and shut it down hook the tubemeter to the usb and restart the computer.
open aquasuite and click on tubemeter and update the firmware in the tubemeter!


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes that is correct one of the pins on the Aquaero will not be used but make sure you connect the molex also.
> 
> one other thing you need to do is have the Aquasuite installed in your computer and shut it down hook the tubemeter to the usb and restart the computer.
> open aquasuite and click on tubemeter and update the firmware in the tubemeter!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes that is correct one of the pins on the Aquaero will not be used but make sure you connect the molex also.
> 
> one other thing you need to do is have the Aquasuite installed in your computer and shut it down hook the tubemeter to the usb and restart the computer.
> open aquasuite and click on tubemeter and update the firmware in the tubemeter!


Thank you guys very much


----------



## ropesend

So I just got my Aquaero 6 Pro, does anyone know if I will be able to use my A5 Pro as a slave, the way you can slave a A5 LT to an A5 Pro. I know that I would loose a lot of the A5 functionality but can I flash it to behave like a A5 LT?


----------



## kpoeticg

An A5Pro is an A5LT + a screen. It's the same PCB. Just remove the screen and it's an LT


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ropesend*
> 
> So I just got my Aquaero 6 Pro, does anyone know if I will be able to use my A5 Pro as a slave, the way you can slave a A5 LT to an A5 Pro. I know that I would loose a lot of the A5 functionality but can I flash it to behave like a A5 LT?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> An A5Pro is an A5LT + a screen. It's the same PCB. Just remove the screen and it's an LT


I am not 100% sure if you are right her Kpoeticug as I know shoggy told me you could not slave a AQ6 Pro to a XT so I would as to make sure. You are right I am pretty sure but I would double check before I did any thing.

And not you really dont loose a lot of the Functionality just 1 PMW fan header will be just voltage control and you do loose 4 temp switches. everything else you really have copied on the AQ6 pro and dont really need. I think anyway..


----------



## kpoeticg

You can't use any A6 as a slave because they didn't make an A6LT.

I'm pretty positive that an A5XT/A5Pro - the screen = A5LT

Edit: I think the reverse might be true as well. You own an A5LT, can you confirm whether or not it has the male dupont

headers to plug the LCD part into? It looks like the solder joints are there for it



The headers would be on the other side of those if it's possible to plug the LCD from a Pro or XT into it

I'm pretty sure the only thing you gain when using an LT Slave is the extra 4 fan headers (No PWM) and maybe like 8 (?) temp probe headers. I think you lose all the extra stuff. I could be missing a cpl things in that list like maybe Aquabus. Not sure because i've only read about it and haven't done it myself =)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You can't use any A6 as a slave because they didn't make an A6LT.
> I'm pretty positive that an A5XT/A5Pro - the screen = A5LT
> 
> I'm pretty sure the only thing you gain when using an LT Slave is the extra 4 fan headers (No PWM) and maybe like 8 (?) temp probe headers. I think you lose all the extra stuff. I could be missing a cpl things in that list like maybe Aquabus. Not sure because i've only read about it and haven't done it myself =)


only 4 temp headers and you might be right about being able to do this I was just stating I would PM shoggy and ask unless someone else has actually done this. That way he don't spend money on something that will not work..

I know on a slaved AQ5 LT the Aquabus works, 4 of the temp headers, the flow header and you have 4 fan headers without the PMW, I am not sure about the other functions... There has been a lot I awesome on these to be wrong.. So I have found it better to ask and he usually replies with in 48 hours...


----------



## kpoeticg

The flow header works too? Nice, i didn't know that


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The flow header works too? Nice, i didn't know that


I am just about certain shoggy told me it did. and it makes sense for it to work becausze what you are basically doing is turning it into 4 PA2's. they have flow headers. I think everything it has in common with a PA2 will work. the other items will not since Aquasuite will actually treat it as a PA2. now still need to check with shoggy to make sure before you spend money thinking the AQ5 pro can be slaved...


----------



## kpoeticg

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/104481-6-xt-as-a-slave-to-a-6-xt/



I remember shoggy saying before that you couldn't flash an A6 to slave. I guess they must've updated Aquasuite since then. Check out that link.

Still seems like a huge waste of money though. I'd happily go out and buy an Aquaero 5 LT to trade with you for your Aquaero 6 Pro. I'll even flash the firmware for you and everything


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Still seems like a huge waste of money though. I'd happily go out and buy an Aquaero 5 LT to trade with you for your Aquaero 6 Pro. I'll even flash the firmware for you and everything


Sure he's not intending to slave the A6...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ropesend*
> 
> So I just got my Aquaero 6 Pro, does anyone know if I will be able to *use my A5 Pro as a slave*, the way you can slave a A5 LT to an A5 Pro. I know that I would loose a lot of the A5 functionality but can I flash it to behave like a A5 LT?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/104481-6-xt-as-a-slave-to-a-6-xt/
> 
> 
> 
> I remember shoggy saying before that you couldn't flash an A6 to slave. I guess they must've updated Aquasuite since then. Check out that link.
> 
> Still seems like a huge waste of money though. I'd happily go out and buy an Aquaero 5 LT to trade with you for your Aquaero 6 Pro. I'll even flash the firmware for you and everything


Dont need to buy a AQ5 LT as I already have 2 of these and 2 of the AQ6 pro's... Learned something new today or actually I think things have changed we were not aware of. wish they sent a email when they make any changes or upgrades but I guess you could read what has changed in the software log?? but still a email would be nice and easier for me to keep up with!!!

Is this possible shoggy???


----------



## kpoeticg

If you check out that thread, it seems like the only way it's possible is directly through Aquasuite. Whatever other method is used for flashing doesn't work with the A6 yet.

But you still have the same limitations (No PWM) so it's a pretty big waste of money to slave an A6.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> If you check out that thread, it seems like the only way it's possible is directly through Aquasuite. Whatever other method is used for flashing doesn't work with the A6 yet.
> 
> But you still have the same limitations (No PWM) so it's a pretty big waste of money to slave an A6.


unless you want the more power that you get from the AQ6 vs the PA2's


----------



## kpoeticg

Great point. I didn't think of that









Still though, you can get 2xPA2's AND an LT for less than an A6Pro.

Don't get me wrong, for a build like yours i could see the need for it with so much stuff in there already


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Great point. I didn't think of that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still though, you can get 2xPA2's AND an LT for less than an A6Pro.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, for a build like yours i could see the need for it with so much stuff in there already


Going to run my 2 AQ 6 pro's seperate with one on cold water loop and other on hot water loop...


----------



## kpoeticg

Stop teasing us and get it done!!!!!


----------



## DooRules

New software and FW out

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/104505-aquasuite-2014-1/


----------



## seross69

I have read of some problems with it so beware. check out the aqua computer forums. might be better to skip this one..


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Going to run my 2 AQ 6 pro's seperate with one on cold water loop and other on hot water loop...


Peltiers?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Peltiers?


yes!!!!






























6 to be exact that is going to be controlled by the AQ6!!!!


----------



## seross69

the AquaSuite 2014 1.1 that fixes the bugs I mentioned before.


----------



## suicidegybe

So I have got my new build up and running, but every time I connect my flow sensor to the Aquaero 6 it shuts off and won't work unless I disconnect the sensor. Any ideas?


----------



## kcuestag

I need some help.

Is there any way of duplicating/cloning my "Aquaero Idle" profile?



Basically, what I'd like to do is have two profiles, one for Idle, with fans at around 700-800RPM, and one for gaming, with fans at around 1100-1200rpm.

I want to be able to change between those two profiles by just a few clicks, instead of manually boosting (or lowering) the fans voltage/rpm any time I want to play. I am completely lost and can't figure it out. But being an Aquaero, there must be a way of doing this?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Is there any way of duplicating/cloning my "Aquaero Idle" profile?
> 
> But being an Aquaero, there must be a way of doing this?


I'm not sure about how to do it in Aquasuite, but you can easily save the current settings into a profile on the LCD screen. Go to profile management, select profile 2, then select 'save current device settings to profile'. Now you have a copy of the settings.


----------



## goodtobeking

Why not just use the fan control settings at have it speed up the fans to that speed when your rig reaches a certain temperature?? You can set it to run the fans by RPM, then have a set point controller adjust the speed via a temperature setting, eg GPU or CPU software sensors, or air/water temps.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Why not just use the fan control settings at have it speed up the fans to that speed when your rig reaches a certain temperature?? You can set it to run the fans by RPM, then have a set point controller adjust the speed via a temperature setting, eg GPU or CPU software sensors, or air/water temps.


Interesting, I didn't know I could set it based on GPU temperatures, how?


----------



## kpoeticg

Using the Virtual Sensors. It can read temps off of a few of the common software's

Edit: I mean Software Sensors. Not Virtual.

Aida64's one of em


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Interesting, I didn't know I could set it based on GPU temperatures, how?


You have to install a 3rd party program to read the temps. But Aquasuite can import the readings by going to the Sensors tab, then opening the subtab for Software Sensors. There you just click on the sensor you want to add, IIRC you can add up to 8. It should be self explanatory from there. But post if you need some help









For the 3rd party software I use openhardwaremonitor I leave that run in the back ground and records the max/min/current values of a lot of systems and subsystems.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Interesting, I didn't know I could set it based on GPU temperatures, how?


You could do that, but GPU (as well as CPU) temps change rapidly and erratically. Using those temps as the control source for your fans means that the fans will be constantly speeding up and slowing down in large jumps. I don't know about you, but I would find that very annoying from a noise perspective.

A better approach is to use water-to-air delta to control the fans. Water and ambient temps are slow to change, so the changes in fans speed are gradual.

You would do this using a Temperature Difference virtual sensor:



And then use that virtual sensor as a data source for a curve controller:



I use the above curve with my system, and it works quite well. The fans only crank up when there is sufficient heat in the water that needs to be removed. The fans do ramp up and down a little bit when the system is under load, but the changes in speed are small and gradual.

You'll have to play around with the min temp, max temp, and curve shape to find out what works for you in regards to cooling performance and noise.


----------



## NYMD

Where do you get the additional ambient air temp sensors?


----------



## VSG

How many do you need? The unit come with 4 as is.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Where do you get the additional ambient air temp sensors?


You can buy more at FCPU here or PPC does have them also


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Where do you get the additional ambient air temp sensors?


The AQ6 comes with 4 temp probes, so I placed them in different places in the case. The Front Intake is just in front of the front intake fans. The Rear Intake is just outside the rear intake fan (next to the motherboard). The Radiator Intake and Exhaust sensors are sandwiched between the radiator fans and the rad on the push and pull sides respectively. My water temp sensor is a BP stop fitting type on the bottom of the res.

You may notice that I have an Intake Average virtual sensor. It's the average of the front and rear intake sensors. I tried using it as the air sensor in the water-air delta, but the rear intake is pulling in some heat from the PSU exhaust. This was causing the average value to vary wildly as it pulled in more or less of the PSU exhaust air. I went back to using just the front intake in the water-air delta.

All of those other sensors in the list are software sensors from Open Hardware Monitor. I don't use them to control anything, but they are fun to look at:


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> You could do that, but GPU (as well as CPU) temps change rapidly and erratically. Using those temps as the control source for your fans means that the fans will be constantly speeding up and slowing down in large jumps. I don't know about you, but I would find that very annoying from a noise perspective.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A better approach is to use water-to-air delta to control the fans. Water and ambient temps are slow to change, so the changes in fans speed are gradual.
> 
> You would do this using a Temperature Difference virtual sensor:
> 
> 
> 
> And then use that virtual sensor as a data source for a curve controller:
> 
> 
> 
> I use the above curve with my system, and it works quite well. The fans only crank up when there is sufficient heat in the water that needs to be removed. The fans do ramp up and down a little bit when the system is under load, but the changes in speed are small and gradual.
> 
> You'll have to play around with the min temp, max temp, and curve shape to find out what works for you in regards to cooling performance and noise.


Yeah this is exactly how I had mine setup before I tore my rig apart. Currently in a temporary state, and trying to talk myself into getting another MOBO but thats









I didnt realize he was watercooled, with air you are kinda limited. So I would recommend the above approach. Fans that ramp up and down drive me insane


----------



## seross69

New software
Aquasuite software to version 2014 - 1.3 (with a firmware version of 1036)


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How many do you need? The unit come with 4 as is.


Laugh at me if you will but I thought they were tiny little LED lights. When I unpacked my AQ6 I had no idea why someone would want 4 singular tiny LED lights but I said OK and tossed them back in the box.


----------



## VSG

Well at least you don't need to buy more of them now


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Laugh at me if you will but I thought they were tiny little LED lights. When I unpacked my AQ6 I had no idea why someone would want 4 singular tiny LED lights but I said OK and tossed them back in the box.


not going to laugh but wondering if alcohol or women was involved with this mistake????


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> not going to laugh but wondering if alcohol or women was involved with this mistake????


hahah there maybe a few gin and tonics in me by the time I get to work on anything around here......... yes


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> You have to install a 3rd party program to read the temps. But Aquasuite can import the readings by going to the Sensors tab, then opening the subtab for Software Sensors. There you just click on the sensor you want to add, IIRC you can add up to 8. It should be self explanatory from there. But post if you need some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the 3rd party software I use openhardwaremonitor I leave that run in the back ground and records the max/min/current values of a lot of systems and subsystems.


I'll give it a try. thanks. I'd like to end up with water and air sensors and do a curve but I have no water sensors yet, so until I do, I'll try this.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> You could do that, but GPU (as well as CPU) temps change rapidly and erratically. Using those temps as the control source for your fans means that the fans will be constantly speeding up and slowing down in large jumps. I don't know about you, but I would find that very annoying from a noise perspective.
> 
> A better approach is to use water-to-air delta to control the fans. Water and ambient temps are slow to change, so the changes in fans speed are gradual.
> 
> You would do this using a Temperature Difference virtual sensor:
> 
> 
> 
> And then use that virtual sensor as a data source for a curve controller:
> 
> 
> 
> I use the above curve with my system, and it works quite well. The fans only crank up when there is sufficient heat in the water that needs to be removed. The fans do ramp up and down a little bit when the system is under load, but the changes in speed are small and gradual.
> 
> You'll have to play around with the min temp, max temp, and curve shape to find out what works for you in regards to cooling performance and noise.


This is what I had planned before buying the Aquaero, but I always forget to buy the water probe/sensor to do this.


----------



## kcuestag

Here's what I've done using GPU1 Sensor:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





and:





Here's the "curve" for the fans:



Basically, I used both curves for the GPU1 Sensor, and I set it so that it starts measuring at 20ºC, and the Noctua's run at around 70% and Gentle Typhoon's at 50%, once the GPU hits 42ºC, the Noctua's go to 100% speed and the Gentle Typhoon's go to 70%.

However, it seems to be ignoring me, because right now I am idling 35-36ºC (and going down) and they're still at 89% and 60%.. They don't slow down... It did seem to speed them up when I went into Battlefield 4, but they are not going back to the idle state of 70% and 50%...

Did I do anything wrong? I just want a simple "curve", anything above 42ºC on the first GPU = fans at 100% (Noctua) and 70% (Gentle Typhoon's).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here's what I've done using GPU1 Sensor:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the "curve" for the fans:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, I used both curves for the GPU1 Sensor, and I set it so that it starts measuring at 20ºC, and the Noctua's run at around 70% and Gentle Typhoon's at 50%, once the GPU hits 42ºC, the Noctua's go to 100% speed and the Gentle Typhoon's go to 70%.
> 
> However, it seems to be ignoring me, because right now I am idling 35-36ºC (and going down) and they're still at 89% and 60%.. They don't slow down... It did seem to speed them up when I went into Battlefield 4, but they are not going back to the idle state of 70% and 50%...
> 
> Did I do anything wrong? I just want a simple "curve", anything above 42ºC on the first GPU = fans at 100% (Noctua) and 70% (Gentle Typhoon's).


Might be good to post this in the Aqua Computer English forums


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Might be good to post this in the Aqua Computer English forums


Got it to work using Two point controller instead of a Curve, suits me better.









At 42ºC they Switch On (X% Speed) and at 41ºC they Switch Off (X% Speed as I keep Hold Minimum Power ticked in the FAn tabs).









All solved!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Here's what I've done using GPU1 Sensor:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the "curve" for the fans:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, I used both curves for the GPU1 Sensor, and I set it so that it starts measuring at 20ºC, and the Noctua's run at around 70% and Gentle Typhoon's at 50%, once the GPU hits 42ºC, the Noctua's go to 100% speed and the Gentle Typhoon's go to 70%.
> 
> However, it seems to be ignoring me, because right now I am idling 35-36ºC (and going down) and they're still at 89% and 60%.. They don't slow down... It did seem to speed them up when I went into Battlefield 4, but they are not going back to the idle state of 70% and 50%...
> 
> Did I do anything wrong? I just want a simple "curve", anything above 42ºC on the first GPU = fans at 100% (Noctua) and 70% (Gentle Typhoon's).


A couple of things:


You already set your min and max power for your fans in the fan settings (your 1st and 2nd pics). Setting the same minimum power in the curve controller actually sets it higher than you intended.

It works like this: Take for example your Noctua fans. On the fan settings page, you set the min and max power to 62.8% and 100% respectively. On the curve controller, it appears that you set the nearly the same min and max values (70% and 100%). You would think that at low temps the fan power would be set to 70%, but the power ended up being 89%. This is because the controller scales the whole controller range (0% to 100%) to the fan min/max range (62.8% to 100%). This means that when the controller is outputting 70% the fan power is set like this:

[current controller value] * ( [fan max] - [fan min] ) + [fan min] = 70% * (100% - 62.8%) + 62.8% = 89%

In other words, the 89% fan power is 70% of the range between 62.8% and 100% If the controller is at 0% the fan will be at 62.8%, and if it's at 100% the fan will be at 100%. Any controller value in between will be linearly scaled to the appropriate fan power value.

The same goes for your GT fans except that controller 0 % and 100% maps to fan power 50% and 70% respectively.

tl;dr Set the controller min and max values to 0% and 100% respectively in order to make use of the full min/max range that you set on the fan settings page.

You should enable the "Hold minimum power" setting. Otherwise if the temp drops below the first dot on the curve controller, then the fans will turn off completely. [EDIT] You apparently found that setting while I was typing this reply.









As you noted in your next post, the two-point controller fits your desired use better. The curve controller is for gradual changes in output over a range of input values.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Got it to work using Two point controller instead of a Curve, suits me better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 42ºC they Switch On (X% Speed) and at 41ºC they Switch Off (X% Speed as I keep Hold Minimum Power ticked in the FAn tabs).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All solved!


did you stick a temp probe in between your block & card? Or is there a way to integrate Aida/HW monitor readings?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> did you stick a temp probe in between your block & card? Or is there a way to integrate Aida/HW monitor readings?


Sensors -> Software sensor -> enable sensor -> assign it. It will read from Aida or HW.


----------



## skupples

+1

one last nublet question... Assign it how?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> +1
> 
> one last nublet question... Assign it how?


Hmm I'm in OS X right now, can't reboot to Win to see, hopefully someone more experienced can answer. I do remember it was pretty obvious -- the software temperature sensors appear in a dropdown box if you have an appropriate sensor program running.

If you recently upgraded and are using Aida, one of the 2014 versions had issues with Aida, so upgrade again to the latest and it should work.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> Sensors -> Software sensor -> enable sensor -> assign it. It will read from Aida or HW.


I think you also have to install and start the Aqua Computer Windows Service under aquasuite -> Settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> +1
> 
> one last nublet question... Assign it how?


Aquaero 6 [XT or Pro] -> Sensors -> expand "Software temperature sensors"



Select one of the software sensors on the left.
Give it a name.
Set the mode to "Sensor enabled".
Check "Use sensor with Aqua Computer Service".
Click on "Select data source".
Select the data source that you want in the window that pops up:


----------



## skupples

that's what I figured, but I get this nice blank window.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's what I figured, but I get this nice blank window.


Are you using Open Hardware Monitor or AIDA? OHM works out-of-the-box, but if you use AIDA you'll have to enable "Enable writing sensor values to WMI" :



Is the Aqua Computer Windows Service running? Check the Aquasuite settings tab:



You might need to restart Aquasuite and/or your computer to get it working properly.


----------



## skupples

Ah! Was trying to do it with CPUID HWM... OHM is working.









another +1.


----------



## kcuestag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> As you noted in your next post, the two-point controller fits your desired use better. The curve controller is for gradual changes in output over a range of input values.


Yeah, many thanks for the help.


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Might be good to post this in the Aqua Computer English forums


Hey Seross 69
I wondered what you know about Jeaks LED amp. Ive started a new build and its called "excessive" aqua tubes (hope you don't mind me using" excessive" Seross







) 
What I wanted to do is use the Aquaero 6 LED RGB pin out on the aquaero and fit RGB leds to the three aqua tubes and color change via the settings in aqua suite like I did in this previous build 
Does Jeaks RGB LED Amp board use the aqua suite via the pin out on the aquaero 6?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it does. I have one on its way to me right now. You can power 3 RGB Strips or 3 Series' of RGB LED's off it.

If you wanna see it in action, check out Seanimus' build logs. http://www.overclock.net/t/1421280/build-log-seanimus341

The Aquaero RGB Pinout is Common Cathode where most RGB LED's and RGB Strips are Common Anode. The Jeaks Amp converts the common cathode to common anode and powers the strips with a molex.


----------



## skupples

so... the RGB header only has enough power to push single LED's in it's native state, correct? Thinking about lighting up my tube res with RGB, but this whole JEAKS amp deal is kinda throwing me off.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, the RGB header can only handle one RGB or 3 Single-Color LED's.

Common Cathode means each color has it's own +V, and they share the Common/Ground. So the pinout's like R|G|B|Ground

Most strips and rgb led's use common anode so R|G|B|+V

So the Jeak Amp has NFet's that convert the common cathode to common anode. Then it takes it's 12v & Ground from a Molex you plug into it. So the Aquaero's just controlling the color but isn't actually powering the led's


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HG02*
> 
> Hey Seross 69
> I wondered what you know about Jeaks LED amp. Ive started a new build and its called "excessive" aqua tubes (hope you don't mind me using" excessive" Seross
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I wanted to do is use the Aquaero 6 LED RGB pin out on the aquaero and fit RGB leds to the three aqua tubes and color change via the settings in aqua suite like I did in this previous build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does Jeaks RGB LED Amp board use the aqua suite via the pin out on the aquaero 6?


I dont know much about the LED amps as I am not using one and right now I have not planned on doing this. but from my understanding is the AQ5 & 6 use cathode led's and in USA we use anode.. something like this. this is all from memory so I might have stated it wrong. but as other people have told you contact seanimus and he has used them and can help I am sure. and kpoeticg explained it pretty good also...

no I dont care if you use excessive for your build... just make sure it really is!!!!


----------



## OIOKronikler

Hi to everyone here, I got a question pertaining to this controller. I am in planning /purchasing stage for my new build. I have 4 nexxxos ut60 120.4 rads and 32 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans that will go into this build. System will also have to d5 pumps, not sure if dual/single loop and or in parallel/series configuration. Also maybe a flow sensor in there some where. I would like to know for a set up like this is it possible to connect everything I have/will have to just the controller, or will I need to expand controller with poweradjust 2 units. Thanks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coronati Oculis*
> 
> Hi to everyone here, I got a question pertaining to this controller. I am in planning /purchasing stage for my new build. I have 4 nexxxos ut60 120.4 rads and 32 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 fans that will go into this build. System will also have to d5 pumps, not sure if dual/single loop and or in parallel/series configuration. Also maybe a flow sensor in there some where. I would like to know for a set up like this is it possible to connect everything I have/will have to just the controller, or will I need to expand controller with poweradjust 2 units. Thanks


fans yes but will depend on the pumps and if you want these controlled by the AQ or not..


----------



## OIOKronikler

I would like both pumps to be tied in with the controller, and the only one I seen so far are made by these guys Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor w/ USB and Aquabus Interface. Is there any other choice I can go with that will provide same level of control/versatility/compatibility with this controller.


----------



## kpoeticg

Technically any pump can be controlled by the Aquaero. Just depends if you want voltage control or PWM. Pumps need alot of power so voltage controlling from any fan controller can end up becoming a problem. That's why Aquacomputer originally released the Power Adjusts. The Aquaero 6 is capable of PWM control on all of its channels. Right now it's having some PWM compatibility issue's with some PWM pumps. It's still new though and i'm pretty confident it will get sorted out with firmware updates.

If you're running a ton of GT's already, i'd recommend either getting PWM pumps or the AC D5's.


----------



## OIOKronikler

Thanks for the info seross69 and kpoeticg. I will most likely go with AC d5s than like I planned.


----------



## HG02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I dont know much about the LED amps as I am not using one and right now I have not planned on doing this. but from my understanding is the AQ5 & 6 use cathode led's and in USA we use anode.. something like this. this is all from memory so I might have stated it wrong. but as other people have told you contact seanimus and he has used them and can help I am sure. and kpoeticg explained it pretty good also...
> 
> no I dont care if you use excessive for your build... just make sure it really is!!!!


HAVE TO ROB ANOTHER BANK TO FINISH THIS ONE SERROS


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coronati Oculis*
> 
> I would like both pumps to be tied in with the controller, and the only one I seen so far are made by these guys Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor w/ USB and Aquabus Interface. Is there any other choice I can go with that will provide same level of control/versatility/compatibility with this controller.


I would not recommend getting the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor w/ USB and Aquabus Interface as you really do not have speed control on them. all you are doing is the same as changing the speed setting on the back of a regular D-5 pump. So to me you are paying a lot extra to have software do something you can do already.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Technically any pump can be controlled by the Aquaero. Just depends if you want voltage control or PWM. Pumps need alot of power so voltage controlling from any fan controller can end up becoming a problem. That's why Aquacomputer originally released the Power Adjusts. The Aquaero 6 is capable of PWM control on all of its channels. Right now it's having some PWM compatibility issue's with some PWM pumps. It's still new though and i'm pretty confident it will get sorted out with firmware updates.
> 
> If you're running a ton of GT's already, i'd recommend either getting PWM pumps or the AC D5's.


IMHO i would not recommend the PMW pumps either. as it might be more than something simple that will be fixed or maybe not. so until we know for sure it is fixed I would get regular D5 pumps make sure they are on highest setting and use voltage control on them. So to run 32 fans I assume it is going to be on 4 rads. I would get a PA for each pump you want to control and then you can either run the pumps or a set of fans from a pa or the fan header.

I do think the PMW pumps are better and you have better control with them but i would not feel right recommending something that I know my have a problem!!!


----------



## skupples

can confirm that mcp35's work just fine in PWM mode on the unit.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx for the info Skupples. I didn't know the 35x's were working good in PWM mode. That's good news for me =)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> can confirm that mcp35's work just fine in PWM mode on the unit.


yeah thanks for that and I am glad to know this!!!!


----------



## SeeThruHead

I was actually going to purchase two ac d5 pumps to use with my aquaero 5lt in my next build. Can someone explain what's wrong with those? I'd like some control of pump speed via software. Though full of control I don't think is necessary.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I was actually going to purchase two ac d5 pumps to use with my aquaero 5lt in my next build. Can someone explain what's wrong with those? I'd like some control of pump speed via software. Though full of control I don't think is necessary.


there is nothing wrong with them!!! but what I dont like is that you have no more control with them than you do a regular D5 pump that has the speed selector on the back of it.

that is my only problem. it is not a problem if you want this but I thought I understood that it had a full range of control instead of this. In my mind it is not worth the 30 dollars extra. I would rather get the regular D5's and add 22 dollars to the differance in the price and get 2 PA's to have voltage control over the pumps.

now this is just my opinion..


----------



## SeeThruHead

I actually already have one pa2. Which d5 would you recommend for use with a pa2? Also does anyone really need more control of the pump. It seems to me like I would be setting for what is silent while my pc idles and for what provides enough flow while stressing. With two d3 I probably would end up setting both to whatever the medium setting is. I just like the fact that I don't have to physically turn a know ND that it can be controlled automatically by software.

I also just read from the swiftest rep that d5s don't really like voltage control.


----------



## kpoeticg

The AC D5 is a D5 Vario that has digital control instead of the pot that you have to physically turn. So there's 3 benefits over the D5 Vario

1. The D5 Vario only has a few speeds you can choose. The pcb in the AC D5 gives you control over the full rpm range instead of just a few speed settings

2. It's just more convenient to change the speed through the Aquaero than having to get access to your pump and turn the knob

3. You can run it through Aquabus on the Aquaero, so you don't have to sacrifice any fan channels

So it depends how much those features are worth to you. The Aquabus instead of fan channels can still be achieved with other pumps by purchasing Power Adjusts like seross suggested. That might still end up costing a little more when it's added up though.

Edit: I just read your last post. Nothing really "likes" being voltage controlled. The AC D5, like the D5 Vario, isn't Voltage Controlled. It has an rpm setting built into it. The AC PCB just makes it a little more functional.

Alot of people don't really feel the need to mess with the speed of their D5's, since they're silent pumps anyway. It depends on your particular needs...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I actually already have one pa2. Which d5 would you recommend for use with a pa2? Also does anyone really need more control of the pump. It seems to me like I would be setting for what is silent while my pc idles and for what provides enough flow while stressing. With two d3 I probably would end up setting both to whatever the medium setting is. I just like the fact that I don't have to physically turn a know ND that it can be controlled automatically by software.
> 
> I also just read from the swiftest rep that d5s don't really like voltage control.


I have 4 of the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor w/ USB and Aquabus Interface so I am not going to tell you anything bad about them. but really I think pumps are a set and run device. just make sure you have enough flow rate at the lowest noise and then set them and let them run. the fans are a lot more important to control for lower noise...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AC D5 is a D5 Vario that has digital control instead of the pot that you have to physically turn. So there's 3 benefits over the D5 Vario
> 
> 1. The D5 Vario only has a few speeds you can choose. The pcb in the AC D5 gives you control over the full rpm range instead of just a few speed settings
> 2. It's just more convenient to change the speed through the Aquaero than having to get access to your pump and turn the knob
> 3. You can run it through Aquabus on the Aquaero, so you don't have to sacrifice any fan channels
> 
> So it depends how much those features are worth to you. The Aquabus instead of fan channels can still be achieved with other pumps by purchasing Power Adjusts like seross suggested. That might still end up costing a little more when it's added up though.
> 
> Edit: I just read your last post. Nothing really "likes" being voltage controlled. The AC D5, like the D5 Vario, isn't Voltage Controlled. It has an rpm setting built into it. The AC PCB just makes it a little more functional.
> 
> Alot of people don't really feel the need to mess with the speed of their D5's, since they're silent pumps anyway. It depends on your particular needs...


actually Shoggy told me you just have the 5 settings for speed with the AC D5's just like the ones with the red knob.. just can set one of 5 speeds electronically instead of by hand!!

the D5 Vario and the AC D5 have the exact same amount of speed settings or this is what shoggy told me! both have 5

but the other 2 are correct! but not worth 30 dollars to me because like you stated you are going to set the pumps and then leave them. the pumps make more noise with changes in speed or starting than they do running.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, pretty sure i'm the one that told you they both have 5. And Shoggy corrected me in this thread and said they have control over the full RPM range. I remember because i felt stupid afterwards


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, pretty sure i'm the one that told you they both have 5. And Shoggy corrected me in this thread and said they have control over the full RPM range. I remember because i felt stupid afterwards


now my head is hurting!!! I could swear that it was shoggy that told me that. oh well I guess that is what you get for giving advice on 2nd or 3rd have information instead of actually using it your self.... ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The AC D5 has no PWM. It's a D5 Vario that uses a digital signal to set the trimpot to one of 5 speeds. It probly came with a USB and an Aquabus cable?
> 
> 
> 
> Not quite correct. The pumps speed can be adjusted from 0% to 100% where 0% is a very slow setting so it does not mean that the pump will stop. Anyway, it is not limited to 5 steps, you can control it much more precisely. The USB and aquabus/tacho cable is included.
Click to expand...


----------



## ozzy1925

well if you can wait 2-3 weeks my d5 aquabus pumps are on the way


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well if you can wait 2-3 weeks my d5 aquabus pumps are on the way


I have 4 of them at home and hope to have the results with my own eyes and hands in 3 to 4 weeks!!!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have 4 of them at home and hope to have the results with my own eyes and hands in 3 to 4 weeks!!!


end of discussion...


----------



## SeeThruHead

Another quick question for you aquaero gurus. Can I use a single aquabus cable (4pin) to connect to the aq5/6. As in will the pump receive power through the aq or do I need to connect it to external power.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Another quick question for you aquaero gurus. Can I use a single aquabus cable (4pin) to connect to the aq5/6. As in will the pump receive power through the aq or do I need to connect it to external power.


i can answer this and be right. it gets the power to run pump from the PSU or external power...


----------



## dpoverlord

I have a digidoc 5 fan control unit to control 9 fans on my system. I made another post about how it seems to be failing? Would this unit be overkill for what I need or should I look at something else. I dont plan to go the water cooling route but I like the idea of setting up fan profiles with curves so that if temps in the case hit a certain limit the speeds can change depending on what I need. Right now for the last 13 years the digidoc 5 has just had the fans going on all the time. It looks cool but doesnt do much for me. Would be nice to be able to monitor my SLi titans and raise the speed of the fans if need be.


----------



## skupples

I'm not sure if you can control your GPU fans with this device. You could control other fans to ramp up when the GPU's hit X temp though. It's an awesome toy, & would likely be over kill, but who cares?


----------



## seross69

@dpoverlord If you just want to control the fans and are not worried about a screen you could consider the 5 LT it does everything the others does but no screen.


----------



## SeeThruHead

You could do that with a 5lt like seross mentioned. The beauty of these units is in the software not the screen. You can hook up all you case fans to the 5lt and hook up a temp sensor and achieve exactly what you want. You could probably also wire the gpu fans into the unit if you wanted to make some adaptors but afterburner let's you create custom fan profiles for then already.


----------



## dpoverlord

Thanks a lot guys, I guess I liked the digidoc V in that it had the screen. Granted I never used it but it looks like the LT goes into the motherboard and not a bay correct?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpoverlord*
> 
> Thanks a lot guys, I guess I liked the digidoc V in that it had the screen. Granted I never used it but it looks like the LT goes into the motherboard and not a bay correct?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ok If you want something like what you had to fit in a drive bay then you need to get either a pro or a xt then.. it will do everything you want to do and more.

Also the LT does go in a bay it just does not have a LCD screen..


----------



## skupples

you make me want to get a small chiller for my system.

It's not the cheapest method by any means, but I live in a sea of high end fish tank & aquatics stores, I bet they would carry them.


----------



## kpoeticg

For anybody wondering about the Jeak RGB Amp for the Aquaero, i got mine yesterday and it works amazing. The amp has 3 outputs for RGB strips and i'm able to control an entire 5 Meter 5050 RGB Strip off one of the outputs


----------



## skupples

definitely going on my list for "next time"

it then syncs with the aquaero for color control correct?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah. Basically the Aquaero's RGB output works by powering the R, G, & B signals and sharing a ground between them. The RGB Amp takes those 3 +V signals and converts em to Grounds for each color and gets its power directly from the molex.

So the Aquaero's still sending out the same amount power that can handle a single RGB led, but now it's just a control signal for the RGB Amp. Mixing colors looks wayy better on my RGB strip than it does on the Aquaero LED. I need to post a pic or two for my build log in a little bit anyway, i'll paste the pics in here when i do it


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> For anybody wondering about the Jeak RGB Amp for the Aquaero, i got mine yesterday and it works amazing. The amp has 3 outputs for RGB strips and i'm able to control an entire 5 Meter 5050 RGB Strip off one of the outputs


You have a link?? and roughly how much??


----------



## kpoeticg

You have to PM "Jeak" on the Aquacomputer Forums. He charged me 25euro's shipped to the USA. He also sells RGB Strips too if you're interested.

@Seanimus uses the RGB Amp in his last cpl build logs too.


----------



## goodtobeking

Yeah Seanimus is the first place I seen one. I forget which build it was, but I thought it was somewhat of a custom order. As in expensive as hell. But thats reasonable. I currently have 2x 5 meter rolls of 50x50 RGB along with some other rolls of cool white, red, blue, and green IIRC

Going to have to look into that


----------



## kpoeticg

Well if you keep the single color strips short, you should be able to run em off the 2Pin LED ports of the Aquaero. Here's some pics of the Jeak Amp in action. That red strip in the first pic is running of an Aquaero Port


----------



## Siopao

Who makes those LED strips?


----------



## theseekeroffun

The white ones are nice too....


----------



## leighspped

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> The white ones are nice too....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well if you keep the single color strips short, you should be able to run em off the 2Pin LED ports of the Aquaero. Here's some pics of the Jeak Amp in action. That red strip in the first pic is running of an Aquaero Port


did you still need the amp? for the white?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Siopao*
> 
> Who makes those LED strips?


A bunch of companies make them. Just do an amazon search for "SMD 5050 300" and you'll see them. The strip i got was either the "LED Wholesalers" or the "Lemonbest", i can't remember which i bought.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseekeroffun*
> 
> The white ones are nice too....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah i agree, white is usually the most important lighting in a build. I have some white cathodes. I like cathodes for white and uv, and led's for everything else. That being said, it was really easy to make white with that rgb strip connected to the aquaero/amp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leighspped*
> 
> did you still need the amp? for the white?


The Aquaero's 2Pin PWM headers are i believe 1A max. So as long as you keep it under 1A lengths, you can run any single color strip you want from them. The Jeak Amp's only really needed if you want RGB control from your Aquaero. The RGB header can only control one single rgb led. You could also control a single color strip from a fan header if you wanted. Just connect the ground and +V to the right pins


----------



## leighspped

thanks for the info


----------



## kpoeticg

NP


----------



## Siopao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> A bunch of companies make them. Just do an amazon search for "SMD 5050 300" and you'll see them. The strip i got was either the "LED Wholesalers" or the "Lemonbest", i can't remember which i bought.


Awesome! Thanks for the info!


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well if you keep the single color strips short, you should be able to run em off the 2Pin LED ports of the Aquaero. Here's some pics of the Jeak Amp in action. That red strip in the first pic is running of an Aquaero Port
> *snip*


Yeah I have been running strips off the 2 pin connectors for a while. Had blue on one, cool white on the other. Allows you to do a lot of simple things. But with that RGB amp, its another step for the modding kind!!









Does the RGB amp require all 4 pins of the molex connector?? Or can I just supply it with 12 volts +&-??


----------



## MeanBruce

.


----------



## MeanBruce

,


----------



## MeanBruce

.


----------



## VSG

So is it normal for the high flow sensor to not sound loud when leak testing and then be pretty noisy when the system is running? I am running out of ideas here- either that or my pump is running on air.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Yeah I have been running strips off the 2 pin connectors for a while. Had blue on one, cool white on the other. Allows you to do a lot of simple things. But with that RGB amp, its another step for the modding kind!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the RGB amp require all 4 pins of the molex connector?? Or can I just supply it with 12 volts +&-??


It has solder points for all 4 pins of the molex, but from the looks of the PCB it only uses the 12V & G.

Also only uses 3 pins of the RGB header on the Aquaero. It only needs the R, G, & B, not the ground.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So is it normal for the high flow sensor to not sound loud when leak testing and then be pretty noisy when the system is running? I am running out of ideas here- either that or my pump is running on air.


I've been doing some research the last few days about the high flow sensor cuz mine's only showing 0.8GPM with my MCP35x at max speed in a temporary CPU/Rad/Res loop. I had to solder the green wire back together because it just ripped out of the pin before i even had a chance to use it, so i'm not sure if that's affecting the reading

...Anyway, i read a few threads on the AC forums where people mentioned it starting to make noise. Supposedly the impeller or whatever is in there can tilt off its axis sometimes and unscrewing the top plate and tapping it gently fixed it for some people


----------



## VSG

Ya so I came in to post that it was from the magnetic filter on the bottom of my 900D that was getting sucked in by the rad fans









The flow sensor is very quite and shows 1 gpm for me with 4 sets of QDCs and a lot of blocks so that's not too bad.


----------



## kpoeticg

The only block in my temporary loop is my Apogee Drive II, which is connected to the 35x and actually is supposed to increase flow. So the 0.8GPM at full speed makes no sense. Hopefully i just need a new cable. =\

Anyway, glad to hear it was just the filter









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Oh yes, there will be love.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CaseLabs Nonconforming adaptor mounts working exactly as prescribed, thank you Kevin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice macro shots bruce









Glad to hear that the new CL Bracket works as advertised.

Also, my Datavac is probly the most used tool or appliance in my entire apartment LOLL

Comes in so friggin handy when you're building


----------



## skupples

bruce is back... ha.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya so I came in to post that it was from the magnetic filter on the bottom of my 900D that was getting sucked in by the rad fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flow sensor is very quite and shows 1 gpm for me with 4 sets of QDCs and a lot of blocks so that's not too bad.


may i know which sensor do you use?


----------



## VSG

This one: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/flsehflg1for.html

Also, I meant quiet and not quite but I guess you already figured it out.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It has solder points for all 4 pins of the molex, but from the looks of the PCB it only uses the 12V & G.
> Also only uses 3 pins of the RGB header on the Aquaero. It only needs the R, G, & B, not the ground.
> 
> I've been doing some research the last few days about the high flow sensor cuz mine's only showing 0.8GPM with my MCP35x at max speed in a temporary CPU/Rad/Res loop. I had to solder the green wire back together because it just ripped out of the pin before i even had a chance to use it, so i'm not sure if that's affecting the reading
> 
> ...Anyway, i read a few threads on the AC forums where people mentioned it starting to make noise. Supposedly the impeller or whatever is in there can tilt off its axis sometimes and unscrewing the top plate and tapping it gently fixed it for some people


Thanks thats worth noting. I hate those old school 4 pin connectors. I am trying to replace all those with Mini-Tamiya connectors on devices that only need 12 volt. Reduces clutter and have a clip to keep them together. So far only my Aquaero is the only thing that requires one









I have always been getting about that speed with my MCP35X too. I had put up a small temp loop when I got it in my system with just the CPU block and was getting .9. Actually with my last build, 2 GPU blocks 1 CPU block, 3 radiators, Aquacomputer SS filter and the flow meter, I would peak out at .7 GPM. I was worried at first because everyone recommeded 1-1.5 GPM. I added another block to basically the same loop, but left the flow meter out as I have another radiator inbound to replace the temporary 240 with a monstrous 400mm since my 200mm started leaking.

I always heard that the D5s had higher flow and that these pumps were for heavily restricted loops, but I didnt think it would be that much of a difference. I have my old D5 with an EK top I might have to try in place of the MCP35X to see if there is much of a difference


----------



## skupples

is there another free-ware program that syncs with the unit besides OHWM? My aida has ran out, & I really don't feel like buying it. I would like to chart motherboard temp via software, but Open doesn't do that...

Also, does anyone know how the custom screen design works?

I wanted to display clock + rotating software temps, but they don't have that screen pre-loaded in. I see you can load "a custom logo" into the device so i'm wondering if anyone knows about that, & if the feature can be used to create custom read outs.


----------



## kpoeticg

I just started using Aida and already couldn't picture using my Aquaero without it. There's always "Other Ways" to get it..... (not that i'd personally ever consider doing such a thing)

Not sure if this guide is relevant or not. I bookmarked it but haven't really read through it

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103086-aquahost-lcdhost-aquasuite2013-for-noobz/

@goodtobeking thanx for letting me know that. I feel better now about my flowrate

I always thought 35x's were supposed to be MORE powerful than D5's. D5's are just supposed to be quieter and more reliable (less heat)


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> thanx for letting me know that. I feel better now about my flowrate
> I always thought 35x's were supposed to be MORE powerful than D5's. D5's are just supposed to be quieter and more reliable (less heat)


35x's are more powerful than d5's in the sense that they can generate more pressure for high-restriction environments. D5's are quieter and have higher flow rates


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> 35x's are more powerful than d5's in the sense that they can generate more pressure for high-restriction environments. D5's are quieter and have higher flow rates


Thanx to both of you for setting me straight on that. It's crazy how long i've been under the impression that DDC's had better flowrates. Now i have one more reason to try to find a place for a cpl AC D5's in my XB =\


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It has solder points for all 4 pins of the molex, but from the looks of the PCB it only uses the 12V & G.
> Also only uses 3 pins of the RGB header on the Aquaero. It only needs the R, G, & B, not the ground.
> 
> I've been doing some research the last few days about the high flow sensor cuz mine's only showing 0.8GPM with my MCP35x at max speed in a temporary CPU/Rad/Res loop. I had to solder the green wire back together because it just ripped out of the pin before i even had a chance to use it, so i'm not sure if that's affecting the reading
> 
> ...Anyway, i read a few threads on the AC forums where people mentioned it starting to make noise. Supposedly the impeller or whatever is in there can tilt off its axis sometimes and unscrewing the top plate and tapping it gently fixed it for some people


Are you sure there is no ground going to the amp? If they are a place to put one I would recommend this.. Noy only is it safer but not having a ground can cause problesm..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The only block in my temporary loop is my Apogee Drive II, which is connected to the 35x and actually is supposed to increase flow. So the 0.8GPM at full speed makes no sense. Hopefully i just need a new cable. =\


I would make sure you have it calibrated right do you have the correct impulse entered into the Aquasuite? I can not remember what it is but depends on the ID of the tube,..


----------



## kpoeticg

The ground and power are coming from the molex. The RGB output on the Aquaero is common cathode. The amp converts it to common anode and gets its power from the molex. So it only takes R, G, & B from the aquaero.

So....

The RGB output on the Aquaero is (not in order) +V-R, +V-G, +V-B, Ground

Most RGB strip inputs are R, G, B, +V (using the colors as grounds).

So the amp converts the signals and powers from a seperate input, making your Aquaero still use the same resources to power 3 rgb strips as it would for a single bulb

Yeah, it's calibrated to 169impulses which is supposed to be correct for this flowmeter with 3/8ID. Higher ID i would posibly need to change it.

Also noteworthy, i DID have to calibrate all my Phobya temp sensors. I tested their resistance with a multimeter to confirm. The 6 of them ranged from like 11.78kohm to 12.89 kohm

The output temp was higher than input temp alot of times before i calibrated, i just left my machine off for a while and then made sure the temps were the same. Now the temp sensors work great


----------



## Balanar

I realise this might not be completely on topic but I wanted to ask if anyone knew where/how I could grab an Aquaero 6 XT? The more I follow this thread, the more I crave to have one of these but they are out of stock everywhere I've checked. Any advice on this would be awesome!


----------



## macforth

Hi Balanar..........

I just bought mine straight from au.aquatuning ...... as I am in Aussieland ........ don't know which of their sites a Singaporean would use.

I purchased it on the 28th of Jan as their site said they wouldn't be shipping till the 27th Jan.

I have a notification on my account.. but at this stage it does not include that important message of having been shipped.

I did note that their prices were similar to that offered in the US


----------



## MeanBruce

.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> is there another free-ware program that syncs with the unit besides OHWM? My aida has ran out, & I really don't feel like buying it. I would like to chart motherboard temp via software, but Open doesn't do that...
> 
> Also, does anyone know how the custom screen design works?
> 
> I wanted to display clock + rotating software temps, but they don't have that screen pre-loaded in. I see you can load "a custom logo" into the device so i'm wondering if anyone knows about that, & if the feature can be used to create custom read outs.


As of "aquasuite 2014 - 1" HWInfo64 is supported.

See post #17 here.

I've used most all the free and paid hardware monitoring programs for Windows and I prefer HWInfo64. OHWM is very similar but has less info. HWInfo64 has the best support around, the developer is very active in the forum. Porting HWInfo to Aquasuite was proposed the end of Nov 2013 and Martin worked with Aquacomputer and it was a done deal by Jan 20th 2014.

ETA: Has anyone used the Real Time Clock with it's two aquabus "high" ports for monitoring dual D5 USB pumps?

I'm waiting on EK to release the water block I need for my GPU, hope to leak test in 10-14 days with dual AC USB D5's. Looking at the different options for two high speed aquabus connections I think the RTC is the most inexpensive.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As of "aquasuite 2014 - 1" HWInfo64 is supported.
> 
> See post #17 here.
> 
> I've used most all the free and paid hardware monitoring programs for Windows and I prefer HWInfo64. OHWM is very similar but has less info. HWInfo64 has the best support around, the developer is very active in the forum. Porting HWInfo to Aquasuite was proposed the end of Nov 2013 and Martin worked with Aquacomputer and it was a done deal by Jan 20th 2014.
> 
> ETA: Has anyone used the Real Time Clock with it's two aquabus "high" ports for monitoring dual D5 USB pumps?
> 
> I'm waiting on EK to release the water block I need for my GPU, hope to leak test in 10-14 days with dual AC USB D5's. Looking at the different options for two high speed aquabus connections I think the RTC is the most inexpensive.


For some reason my unit is stuck on wanting to use OHWM, even though iv'e deleted it from my computer, & restored the unit to default.


----------



## kpoeticg

You don't need RTC to split Aquabus connections. I'm pretty sure a normal Y-Cable would do the same thing, otherwise Aquacomputer wouldn't sell the Y cables







. They're sold out on PPC but here's a link just so you can see http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=218&products_id=37323

It's just a standard 4Pin Female that splits into 2 4Pin Males with the same pinout. Would be real easy to make yourself. It's the same as a 4Pin Y-Cable for a fan except that alot of times on fan splitters only 1 rpm signal is sent, so you'd have to make sure that all 4 Pins on the Female split to all 4 Pins on both of the males


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You don't need RTC to split Aquabus connections. I'm pretty sure a normal Y-Cable would do the same thing, otherwise Aquacomputer wouldn't sell the Y cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They're sold out on PPC but here's a link just so you can see http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=218&products_id=37323
> 
> It's just a standard 4Pin Female that splits into 2 4Pin Males with the same pinout. Would be real easy to make yourself. It's the same as a 4Pin Y-Cable for a fan except that alot of times on fan splitters only 1 rpm signal is sent, so you'd have to make sure that all 4 Pins on the Female split to all 4 Pins on both of the males


I wondered about that, I'm concerned about monitoring the rpm of both pumps, can I do that with the 4 wire aquabus Y cable?


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't have any AC D5's yet. I do have an RTC though. I'm pretty sure it handles the Aquabus Splitting the same way a y-cable does. It plugs into one header and splits it into 2. Just uses a PCB instead of wire. I don't see what the difference would be.


----------



## MeanBruce

...


----------



## Balanar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macforth*
> 
> Hi Balanar..........
> 
> I just bought mine straight from au.aquatuning ...... as I am in Aussieland ........ don't know which of their sites a Singaporean would use.
> 
> I purchased it on the 28th of Jan as their site said they wouldn't be shipping till the 27th Jan.
> 
> I have a notification on my account.. but at this stage it does not include that important message of having been shipped.
> 
> I did note that their prices were similar to that offered in the US


I checked aquatuning but its not in stock there as well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I got my Aquaero 6 XT at Performance PCS.com since they had the best price of all 3 US dealers and I live 10minutes away, so free shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They ship to Singapore, they ship all over the world, although direct from AquaComputer might be faster.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3093&XTCsid=6jc217lfqc5d2b0uc76sllsgmv33jg66


Aquacomputer was one of the first places I checked, no dice. I made a big order at PPC recently but had to go through without the Aquaero 6 XT as the customer service rep over there said it would take about a month for stock to arrive. Guess the bottom line is that its out of stock all over the world at the moment and I just have to wait before I can purchase it.

Thanks for help both of ya!


----------



## MeanBruce

.


----------



## skupples

I guess my only option is to uninstall aquasuite @ this point. I can't find any other way to wipe away the OHWM software link to the unit. Also can't get HWM64 to register on the unit, even though it blatantly says on their page that it's supported.


----------



## seross69

does any one remember what channels the PA's are suppose to be assigned to is it 51 thru 58 or 50 through 57???

help please!!


----------



## MeanBruce

If nobody cares, then I don't care, I don't get paid for this ****.









Its a simple formula.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess my only option is to uninstall aquasuite @ this point. I can't find any other way to wipe away the OHWM software link to the unit. Also can't get HWM64 to register on the unit, even though it blatantly says on their page that it's supported.


I installed HWM64 today just from you guys talking about it and it showed right up in Aquasuite. I removed OHWM a while ago in place of Aida. What exactly is the problem your having?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> If nobody cares, then I don't care, I don't get paid for this ****.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a simple formula.


huh?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> does any one remember what channels the PA's are suppose to be assigned to is it 51 thru 58 or 50 through 57???
> 
> help please!!


Looks like 50-57



http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=4&forumid=872280

One of Nams' guides


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balanar*
> 
> I realise this might not be completely on topic but I wanted to ask if anyone knew where/how I could grab an Aquaero 6 XT? The more I follow this thread, the more I crave to have one of these but they are out of stock everywhere I've checked. Any advice on this would be awesome!


You've seen *this*, no?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I installed HWM64 today just from you guys talking about it and it showed right up in Aquasuite. I removed OHWM a while ago in place of Aida. What exactly is the problem your having?
> 
> huh?
> 
> Looks like 50-57
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=4&forumid=872280
> 
> One of Nams' guides





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



first off, I uninstalled OHWM, but it still shows it as the go to device for the HW sensors i programmed it to. I reset the device, didn't go away. I restored it to the original firmware, didn't go away. Flashed to 1036*, didn't go away... Guess the only option left is to re-install aquasuite... Will try that tomorrow.
turns out this screen shouldn't have even been all white, it should of @least reported " no external data"





edit: went ahead and did the re-install tonight... It worked... Guess the .exe was corrupted to some extent, as it would only ever update me to firmware 1034, now on 1036, and working fine.











i'm going to assume that "motherboard" is the VRM sensor since it's 32c, and that temp 2-5 are somewhere around the chipset. I'm coming to this conclusion because the chipset is the only thing not water cooled on the board.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well glad you got it worked out at least









Right now i'm running Prime at 4.7GHz with only my CPU under water. My CPU is 50*C, PCH is 37*C, and VRM's are 29*C

Both the "Motherboard" temps in HWiNFO in Aquasuite line up with my VRM's. And those temp 2-5 show 101, 102, 102, 103....

No idea what those are supposed to represent but definitely not PCH


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Well glad you got it worked out at least:thumb:
> 
> Right now i'm running Prime at 4.7GHz with only my CPU under water. My CPU is 50*C, PCH is 37*C, and VRM's are 29*C
> 
> Both the "Motherboard" temps in HWiNFO in Aquasuite line up with my VRM's. And those temp 2-5 show 101, 102, 102, 103....
> 
> No idea what those are supposed to represent but definitely not PCH


well, I just spent some time tweaking fan/pump speeds. The mobo definitely matches up with VRM. My IR gun reads ~100F on the PCH, so yeah... Maybe i'll voyage into those fud forums once known as Asus.rog.forums tomorrow to try & find out. 90C is pretty damned hot for anything on the motherboard. Even the chip socket it's self.

That nuvoton tab also has CPU-1 CPU-8 and CPU(PECI)-7.... Wiki says PECI is another CPU temp reading.


----------



## kpoeticg

Right now my CPU's reading as 52 in Aida. CPU-8 shows 52 CPU-1 shows 50 in HWiNFO. CPU (PECI) shows 63 which doesn't line up with any of my cores or my cpu package, so can't tell what that's meant to be.

100F isn't bad at all. I always measure everything PC related in Celcius. I just checked my PCH with my IR and it showed 30.2C while aida shows 36C.

I just put my IR to Farenheit and it showed 87F. So maybe 100's a little warm, not too bad tho.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I installed HWM64 today just from you guys talking about it and it showed right up in Aquasuite. I removed OHWM a while ago in place of Aida. What exactly is the problem your having?
> 
> huh?
> 
> Looks like 50-57
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=4&forumid=872280
> 
> One of Nams' guides


thanks a lot for this


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Right now my CPU's reading as 52 in Aida. CPU-8 shows 52 CPU-1 shows 50 in HWiNFO. *CPU (PECI) shows 63 which doesn't line up with any of my cores or my cpu package, so can't tell what that's meant to be.*
> 
> 100F isn't bad at all. I always measure everything PC related in Celcius. I just checked my PCH with my IR and it showed 30.2C while aida shows 36C.
> 
> I just put my IR to Fahrenheit and it showed 87F. So maybe 100's a little warm, not too bad tho.


From wiki
PECI reports a negative value expressing the difference between the current temperature and the thermal throttle point (at which the CPU reduces speed or shuts down to prevent damage due to overheating) instead of the absolute temperature. For example, for a CPU with maximal temperature of 85 °C and a current temperature reading of 35 °C, the value reported by PECI would be −50 °C.

Samsung uses the PECI method, or "difference" for reporting the temps on ssd's.

Now that you have had some hands on with HWInofo what do you think? The HWInfo forum is a good source of info and how different mobo's report info, what sensors are used, etc.


----------



## dpoverlord

Thanks for the help guys, I am going to see if the PSU is the source of the issues since EVGA is sending me a new one due to a recall


----------



## madcratebuilder

AQ 6 with heat sink and RTC. Includes conductive pad to cover 8 small chips, very nice fit.

Germany to NW Orygun in three days for $15, all other venders should do half as good.


----------



## skupples

What is that battery PCB kit?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:
Originally Posted by *seross69* 



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I installed HWM64 today just from you guys talking about it and it showed right up in Aquasuite. I removed OHWM a while ago in place of Aida. What exactly is the problem your having?
> 
> huh?
> 
> Looks like 50-57
> 
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=4&forumid=872280
> One of Nams' guides








> thanks a lot for this


NP









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> AQ 6 with heat sink and RTC. Includes conductive pad to cover 8 small chips, very nice fit.
> 
> Germany to NW Orygun in three days for $15, all other venders should do half as good.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome. Can't wait to order mine =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> What is that battery PCB kit?


It's the Realtime Clock Expansion (RTC)

I have one too. It was released as an accessory with the AQ5 to keep the clock synced in standby mode. It adds an extra High Speed Aquabus too, but i'm pretty sure the extra port functions the same as it would with a Y-Cable. I have mine plugged in, not sure if the battery's useful on my A6Pro tho. Just have it connected because i bought it months ago right before the A6 was announced

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16983/bus-318/Aquacomputer_Real_Time_Clock_Expansion_Module_for_Aquaero_Series_53127.html


----------



## skupples

My unit stays synced with my system clock, but i'm guessing it would obviously lose sync if I unplugged the USB.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, that's why i'm not so sure about the functionality of it on the A6. The A5 had that standby power header. The A6 doesn't have it, it seems the A6 gets standy power from its USB (or maybe its from the molex?)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, that's why i'm not so sure about the functionality of it on the A6. The A5 had that standby power header. The A6 doesn't have it, it seems the A6 gets standy power from its USB (or maybe its from the molex?)


USB


----------



## Roikyou

Slowly reading through the thread and curious which direction people are going as far as controlling water pumps with CPU temp or? I've got my mcp35x running off my msi mpower motherboard, the ramping up and down is annoying, I would like to do something more gradual but not sure this product will resolve the issue. In the motherboard, you have the option of 12.5% increments depending on heat level, so it goes from low rpm to max fast, so quiet to extremely loud, looking for a more gradual. Almost tempted to just keep at a lower percentage and call it good, maybe give it a 12.5% to 65% or lower as 65% is 3k or 3500 rpm, 2h343 the 35x is 4500 max, which is loud, so maybe 50% or lower...


----------



## kpoeticg

With the Aquaero you have total control over the curve as well as the source of it. You can choose to control it based off cpu temp, flowrate, water-temp, or anything else you want. And you can choose to make the slope as steep or gradual as you want also.

First you'd go into "Fans" and choose the 35x. Set Max around 70% and Min around 17%, controlled by PWM, and check the "Hold Minimum" box. The 35x PWM range from min to max duty cycle is something like that, i'm sure IT Diva could chime in with exact numbers.

Then just setup your curve controller however you want from 0-100%. The 35x itself will already be set to only go between that specific range, so 0-100% in the curve controller would be ranging between 17-70% duty cycle.

And you choose the data source that sets the controller. There's soooo many options you can choose from


----------



## Roikyou

Sounds a lot better than going off the motherboard with so little options but I have not looked into speedfan as a cheaper alternative also. I'm using corsair link commander for lights and setting fan profiles but they don't sound as diverse or as many options if I want to put it that way. I'm just pulling two fans from my RX240 and three fans from RX360 radiator. No case fans at the moment, might put two fans in the front again of the Switch 810. Thanks for the input.


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I am a total noob when it comes to the Aquaero. I would like to ask a couple of questions and I will appreciate any help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Has anyone successfully utilized the Swiftech PWM splitter ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html ) with the Aquaero 6 and was able to properly control fan speed?
> 
> 2. What would be the correct way of connecting 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps with Aquabus ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html ) to the Aquaero 6?
> 
> 3. Is the Aquabus 4 pin Y splitter cable ( http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19439/bus-345/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Y_Splitter_Cable_53124.html ) just a 4 pin PWM cable or is it proprietary?
> 
> Thank you much in advance


I used swiftech PWM splitter with both with my AQ5 and AQ6 to run 13 PWM NB eloops (700-1900RPM). I ran power to the PSU and used the speed and PWM signal for the AQ5. Did not test if directly hooking up to the PWM fan header (power, signal, and PWM) on the AQ6 would work, but from the demo video from AC should be no problem.

*Log Link*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Sounds a lot better than going off the motherboard with so little options but I have not looked into speedfan as a cheaper alternative also. I'm using corsair link commander for lights and setting fan profiles but they don't sound as diverse or as many options if I want to put it that way. I'm just pulling two fans from my RX240 and three fans from RX360 radiator. No case fans at the moment, might put two fans in the front again of the Switch 810. Thanks for the input.


Speedfan should give you more options as far as the shape of the curve. Nothing can compare to the Aquaero as far as controlling options though.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skruffs01*
> 
> I used swiftech PWM splitter with both with my AQ5 and AQ6 to run 13 PWM NB eloops (700-1900RPM). I ran power to the PSU and used the speed and PWM signal for the AQ5. Did not test if directly hooking up to the PWM fan header (power, signal, and PWM) on the AQ6 would work, but from the demo video from AC should be no problem.
> 
> *Log Link*


as i checked you have used 2 of these swiftech pwm splitters .Do you have full rpm control with aquaero(0 to max)?Can i do the same with ap 15 which is 3 pin fan?
i was thinking of buying 2 of this:http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-60cm-Y-Cable-3-Pin-to-9-x-3-Pin-Fan-Cable--White--UV-Blue-pid-11834.html


----------



## skruffs01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as i checked you have used 2 of these swiftech pwm splitters .Do you have full rpm control with aquaero(0 to max)?Can i do the same with ap 15 which is 3 pin fan?
> i was thinking of buying 2 of this:http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Phobya-60cm-Y-Cable-3-Pin-to-9-x-3-Pin-Fan-Cable--White--UV-Blue-pid-11834.html


The main difference between my setup and yours is that I am only using the PWM and speed signals on the Aquaero for fan control and power for all fans is supplied by the PSU. My fan speed control is 700-1900 RPM @ 0%-100% PWM signal, respectively. I am not sure on your question regarding full RPM control 0-Max.

With the Aquaero 5 I was limited by power draw from the NB eloops (non PWM eloops are power hungry) and didn't want to run the risk of overheating a fan channel during undervolting (fan speed reduction on 3 pin fans). I could have ran multiple AQ5 fan channels but I wanted to test out the PWM signal on the Aquaero (always liked PWM control if it works properly).

In your case you should have no issues since your fans are about 1W nominal with 4W peak at start-up (30W per channel limit on Aquaero 6). The only question I would have is what is the peak in rush current rating per channel on the Aquaero 6. Maybe Shoggy could answer this. How many fans are you planning to run per channel?


----------



## kpoeticg

That cable should work fine for AP-15's as long as you make sure to plug one of the fans into the cable with the white sticker on it. As long as you don't overload the headers it should work just fine


----------



## SeeThruHead

Anyone use the swiftech pwm splitter on an aq5 or 6 pwm header? I'd like to run 17 pwm fans off my one pwm header on my aq5.


----------



## skruffs01

I know that 13 PWM eloop fans work on the AQ5 and AQ6 on a signal PWM channel signal. Which Aquaero do you have? Since the AQ5 has only one PWM fan header the signal might become too weak on 17 fans, but you could try. If the signal is lost or too weak, the fans will default to max speed. If you have the AQ6 you have the PWM option on all fan headers so you should have no issues.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah I have the 5. So I'm thinking the pwm signal might be too weak. But I really don't want to buy the 6 since I have no interest in the lcd. And it's very expensive unlike the aquaero 5lt.


----------



## skruffs01

It could be, but I thought the same with the 13 PWM eloops and it worked just fine. I would setup a test bench to see. But the point is that if you are running the ap 15's, correct?, they do not have PWM control. They have 3 pin connection - power, ground, and speed signal. Are you thinking about different fans or are the ap 15's what you have?

So the way you will need to reduce the fan speed is reduce the voltage output on the Aquaero to the fan.

For example (only an example) - say that fan voltage for 1000RPM is 7V, this means that the Aquaero must dissipate approximately 0.4W (5V*0.083A = 0.4W). If you use a lot of fans on one header this will add up and if the temperature of the Fan amplifier is too high (not enough airflow over the passive heat sink), it will default back to 12V fan setting until the temp comes back down.

Some people have used the water cooled heat sink option for the Aquaero for this purpose (keep the amp temps in check) during under volting many 3 pin fans.

I think I explained this correctly, someone yell at me if I messed something up.

As kpoeticg and I already mentioned, just don't overload the fan header (30W) and you should be good to go.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> NP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome. Can't wait to order mine =)
> 
> It's the Realtime Clock Expansion (RTC)
> I have one too. It was released as an accessory with the AQ5 to keep the clock synced in standby mode. *It adds an extra High Speed Aquabus too, but i'm pretty sure the extra port functions the same as it would with a Y-Cable.* I have mine plugged in, not sure if the battery's useful on my A6Pro tho. Just have it connected because i bought it months ago right before the A6 was announced
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16983/bus-318/Aquacomputer_Real_Time_Clock_Expansion_Module_for_Aquaero_Series_53127.html


The only difference I see is the RTC circuitry runs part of the aquabus signal through the 8 pin chipset. I've asked AQ support for more info, waiting for a reply.

My only concern with the Y cable is if I can monitor both pump rpm's. I want bios to shut down if 1 pump fails using AQ 6 rpm pin out to the mobo cpu fan header. Does the rpm pin out know if 1 of 2 pumps fail when on a Y cable? I couldn't get a definitive answer on that so I went with the RTC. My reasoning may be fubar on this.


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty sure that little SMD chip is the Clock. If you can monitor 2 RPM's through the RTC, you should be able to do it through a Y-Cable. If you own a crimper it would be simple enough to find out

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Yeah I have the 5. So I'm thinking the pwm signal might be too weak. But I really don't want to buy the 6 since I have no interest in the lcd. And it's very expensive unlike the aquaero 5lt.


If you bought a 6 Pro and took the screen off it, then put the screen on your Aquaero 5, it would be a 5 Pro. No difference. You could sell the 5 Pro and keep the 6 LT to soften the financial blow


----------



## Roikyou

Been reading and reading, so many options and different avenues. My current situation, running corsair link with light and fan controller, works fine, no issues with windows 8.1 and my MSI Mpower Max Mboard. Fans are xspc 120x25 mm 3 pin, non-pwm fans. Case fans for the 810 are stock NZXT 140mm non pwm 3 pin. So, complicates it a little or not?...Not sure. I understand the Aquaero will control both pwm and non pwm fans, just need a splitter for the third channel on the Aquaero to power the 5 to 7 fans (not using many). Yet to determine the best LED that would work with Aquaero and replace the Corsair.

Thinking of two things, sticking with corsair for radiator fans, case fans and led control. The use Aquaero 6 to control the two mcp35x X 2 pumps in series to control they're speed based on cpu temp (as I have no inline temp sensors at this time or flow meter but it's an option for the future but don't think that's an option for corsair, necessary, probably not)

Second option, return the Aquaero 6 and stick with corsair and it's not so elegant control over the fans and pumps (pumps are currently controlled by motherboard, even less control but I have one more fan controller to work with the corsair and I could use that controller to control the two pwm mcp35x pumps).


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Anyone use the swiftech pwm splitter on an aq5 or 6 pwm header? I'd like to run 17 pwm fans off my one pwm header on my aq5.


Hi,

I finally finished my build yesterday. I am successfully running 2 Swiftech PWM boards with 6 fans on each, connected to both the SATA power and the PWM headers on the Aquaero (headers 2 and 3). The board is venny finicky with PWM signals and I could not make it work with 8 fans. For more fans what I would personally do is get more boards and devide the fans equally amongst them with a max of 6 fans on each board.

I hope this helps.


----------



## LCRava

I could use someone's help.









I currently have this Aquacomputer High Flow USB flow meter (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=36083) but I cannot make it work. Just like all other components, after having just the Aquaero connected and it's firmware upgraded, I initially connected the flow meter via USB only and upgraded the firmware. The flow meter would then be recognized but not read the flow at all (0.0).

After naming the device as "Flow Sensor", set it to be primarily controlled via Aquabus (I can't leave the USB in here because I need it to control the 3rd pump) ans give it it's own Aquabus address, I shut off the computer, disconnected the USB and connected the Aquabus to the Flow Meter and Aquaero on the PWM 1 slot as described in the manual. Even after making all the changes under "sensors...etc...", the Aquaero does not recognize it has a Flow Meter attached.

Then I tried leaving both the PWM and USB connected to the flow meter. Even though the flow meter would then be recognized by the Aquasuite as having both connections to it, the flow would still read as "0.0".

I tried using a different Aquabus cable but the exact same happened.

Can someone please tell me if I did something wrong?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Roikyou

So what are you guys using to split 3 pin fans, so for instance if I wanted to use the third channel to run five to seven fans? Just a simple splitter and any issues with the rpm monitoring?


----------



## VSG

I have daisy chained 3 splitters across 4 fans on a single channel without any issue. A better way would be to get a single splitter of course but it shouldn't be an issue as long as all the fans are the same type. In my case I had 2 fans each of a type so the RPMs are kinda wonky but I can still control them together no problem.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah I'm looking to run 17 akasa Apache off of one header. From what people are saying it doesn't sound like it will work.


----------



## VSG

At such high numbers, I would always go PWM fans powered straight off the PSU. I am not saying it wouldn't work since the demo shows a ridiculous number of fans being run off the AQ6 but I don't know if it would work for all fans and how well. I will let someone else chime in here, my only experience with non-PWM fans has been with the 4 fans aforementioned.


----------



## SeeThruHead

They will be running off the psu... I figured you guys assumed that. The swiftech splitters I was thinking of using look like this:



The power signal is not what I'm worried about. I'm worried that the pwm signal will lose its potency being split into so many parallel runs.

Someone was having a similar problem on the ac forums and people responded with this:
Quote:


> Maybe the reason why it's not working with more then 6 of your fans is, that the PWM signal from the aquaero has not enough power to feet more then six fans. If you connect one more fan, the signal level gets to low to trigger the internal pwm electronic of your fans. With some other fans the attenuation could be much more less and you could connect more fans then only six.


Maybe I'll just get an aq6 and save myself the headache.


----------



## VSG

Wait, you were talking about PWM fans the whole time? If so, then you are more or less golden with one caveat- the swiftech 8 way splitter does not play nicely with some PWM fans such as the SP120s. Best to call up Swiftech or PM Bryan and see if they have tested your fans.


----------



## Roikyou

I'm talking about non-pwm fans myself, I think two different fan types, actually up to three types. This is my next issue, really don't want to go out and get all new pwm fans, which the pwm splitter sounds like it will work but not ready for that extra coast after buying the Aquaero.

I think that Swiftech controller is the way to go if you have pwm as if I'm reading it correctly, takes the signal from the first connection, so if all fans are the same, it's going to run the fans at the speed it thinks the first connector is running and adjust it accordingly.


----------



## ozzy1925

as i checked the aq5 waterblock is not compatible to aq6
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2671
But when i checked aq6 passive heat sink i see the waterblock installed
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3153
Do they mean the waterblock is not compatible to aq6 without passive heat sink?


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> as i checked the aq5 waterblock is not compatible to aq6
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2671
> But when i checked aq6 passive heat sink i see the waterblock installed
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3153





*Do they mean the waterblock is not compatible to aq6 without passive heat sink?*

Yep, that's right. the waterblock can be used with the heatsink but not without.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Been reading and reading, so many options and different avenues. My current situation, running corsair link with light and fan controller, works fine, no issues with windows 8.1 and my MSI Mpower Max Mboard. Fans are xspc 120x25 mm 3 pin, non-pwm fans. Case fans for the 810 are stock NZXT 140mm non pwm 3 pin. So, complicates it a little or not?...Not sure. I understand the Aquaero will control both pwm and non pwm fans, just need a splitter for the third channel on the Aquaero to power the 5 to 7 fans (not using many). Yet to determine the best LED that would work with Aquaero and replace the Corsair.
> 
> Thinking of two things, sticking with corsair for radiator fans, case fans and led control. The use Aquaero 6 to control the two mcp35x X 2 pumps in series to control they're speed based on cpu temp (as I have no inline temp sensors at this time or flow meter but it's an option for the future but don't think that's an option for corsair, necessary, probably not)
> 
> Second option, return the Aquaero 6 and stick with corsair and it's not so elegant control over the fans and pumps (pumps are currently controlled by motherboard, even less control but I have one more fan controller to work with the corsair and I could use that controller to control the two pwm mcp35x pumps).


I'd definitely stick with the Aquaero 6 > Corsair Link. I also would definitely not control an mcp35x by PWM through Corsair Link. Corsair uses a different type of PWM, not the industry standard 25KHz pulse on the 4th wire. This is the same reason that SP120 PWM's don't play well with other PWM controllers and splitters.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> I could use someone's help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have this Aquacomputer High Flow USB flow meter (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=36083) but I cannot make it work. Just like all other components, after having just the Aquaero connected and it's firmware upgraded, I initially connected the flow meter via USB only and upgraded the firmware. The flow meter would then be recognized but not read the flow at all (0.0).
> 
> After naming the device as "Flow Sensor", set it to be primarily controlled via Aquabus (I can't leave the USB in here because I need it to control the 3rd pump) *ans give it it's own Aquabus address, I shut off the computer, disconnected the USB and connected the Aquabus to the Flow Meter and Aquaero on the PWM 1 slot as described in the manual.* Even after making all the changes under "sensors...etc...", the Aquaero does not recognize it has a Flow Meter attached.
> 
> Then I tried leaving both the PWM and USB connected to the flow meter. Even though the flow meter would then be recognized by the Aquasuite as having both connections to it, the flow would still read as "0.0".
> 
> I tried using a different Aquabus cable but the exact same happened.
> 
> Can someone please tell me if I did something wrong?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Are you connecting an Aquabus cable to the Aquabus port on the flowmeter and a fan port on the Aquaero? You need to connect it to the Aquabus port on the Aquaero. You can't have it send an Aquabus signal from the flowmeter to a fan header on the aquaero.


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd definitely stick with the Aquaero 6 > Corsair Link. I also would definitely not control an mcp35x by PWM through Corsair Link. Corsair uses a different type of PWM, not the industry standard 25KHz pulse on the 4th wire. This is the same reason that SP120 PWM's don't play well with other PWM controllers and splitters.
> 
> Are you connecting an Aquabus cable to the Aquabus port on the flowmeter and a fan port on the Aquaero? You need to connect it to the Aquabus port on the Aquaero. You can't have it send an Aquabus signal from the flowmeter to a fan header on the aquaero.


The Aquabus is a 4 pin cable. The flow meter port in the Aquaero is a 3 pin input that requires a proprietary cable and my flowmeter does not have a 3 pin output. Your only option of connecting this particular flow meter to the Aquaero is with an Aquabus cable on the Aquaero's PWM port 1 and then configuring it on the Aquasuite. For whatever reason it'd not working.

Aquacomputer told me to RMA so I just bought the 3 pin flow meter instead. I've been waiting for a heat sink I bought for them for 3 weeks and with the shipping cost I figured replacing the flow meter would be better.

Thanks anyways.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They will be running off the psu... I figured you guys assumed that. The swiftech splitters I was thinking of using look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The power signal is not what I'm worried about. *I'm worried that the pwm signal will lose its potency being split into so many parallel runs.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Someone was having a similar problem on the ac forums and people responded with this:
> Maybe I'll just get an aq6 and save myself the headache.


This is the problem. There is a workaround however through a little DIY. IT Diva posted an IC in the water cooling thread a while ago that acts as a pwm replicator (hex buffer). I will try to find her post when I get to school and off this bus. Basically you feed it +5v and ground, and a signal input (pwm signal), and it replicates it across 6 outputs. By daisy chaining these, you can get as many pwm outputs as you need from 1 channel.

Edit: Source and OP:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before you try something that has a likelihood of trashing the PWM generation function of the mobo by trying to make it source a current level it was never imagined to do . . .
> 
> Why not have an electronics buddy make you a buffer circuit with CD4050 hex buffer IC's.
> 
> Feed the mobo PWM pin to the first buffer of each of 2 4050's, and then have the output of that buffer feed the 5 remaining inputs on that IC.
> 
> You're now up to 10 buffered outputs from which you could feed all 6 buffers of 10 more 4050's for a total of 60 buffered outputs for the fan's PWM signal.
> 
> Even if you only build half with 30 outputs for 2 fans per output, you'd still be OK.
> 
> You could even try running a splitter off of each of the first 10 buffered outputs.
> 
> It well could work, and it would remove the chance of damaging the mobo.
> 
> The CD4050 IC's are dirt cheap, about 40 cents each, and some Radio shack perfboard is maybe a few dollars.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## Roikyou

If you read swiftech's definition of this 8 way splitter, they use only the first channel and allow all eight devices to be controlled by that one signal. I don't have it in hand but thought about calling swiftech, see if they can clear it up. It sounds like it send that signal to the 8 fans based on that first channel as they say you need 4 pin pwm fans or pumps. This is the options I was thinking of.

Second option, buy the 5 lt and stick with the fans I have (same price as splitter and five new pwm fans)

Stick with corsair to control case fans and led strip. (I like the option to add sections to the led strip, control the color and strength of the led strip). Continue to use the Aquaero (which I did end up keeping or going with) for the mcp35x. Add flow and temp sensor later to control pump flow based on water temp instead of cpu temp but I would think either would work, water wouldn't be as aggressive as cpu temps I would think but not sure and make it easier to scale the fan speed based off water temp.

My opinion of the software was straight forward to use, I just start clicking through, found what I needed, set the two pumps to pwm, set control to graph, let it set it up for me for now and temp range to run the pumps off, pretty straight forward.

(edited cause I found my answer to the temp sensor)

But here's another question in regards to water temp sensor. If I'm running pump > cpu > RX360 > 780 TI Class > RX240 > pump, was thinking of running two sensors, one after the RX360 and one after the RX240. Any thoughts?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32775


----------



## SeeThruHead

I think I'm going to grab an aq6 and just split the 17 fans onto 2 channels . I'll then use two channels for my mcp35x2. And a power adjust for the remaining 6 ap-15's.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'd definitely stick with the Aquaero 6 > Corsair Link. I also would definitely not control an mcp35x by PWM through Corsair Link. Corsair uses a different type of PWM, not the industry standard 25KHz pulse on the 4th wire. This is the same reason that SP120 PWM's don't play well with other PWM controllers and splitters.
> 
> Are you connecting an Aquabus cable to the Aquabus port on the flowmeter and a fan port on the Aquaero? You need to connect it to the Aquabus port on the Aquaero. You can't have it send an Aquabus signal from the flowmeter to a fan header on the aquaero.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquabus is a 4 pin cable. The flow meter port in the Aquaero is a 3 pin input that requires a proprietary cable and my flowmeter does not have a 3 pin output. Your only option of connecting this particular flow meter to the Aquaero is with an Aquabus cable on the Aquaero's PWM port 1 and then configuring it on the Aquasuite. For whatever reason it'd not working.
> 
> Aquacomputer told me to RMA so I just bought the 3 pin flow meter instead. I've been waiting for a heat sink I bought for them for 3 weeks and with the shipping cost I figured replacing the flow meter would be better.
> 
> Thanks anyways.
Click to expand...

No the AQUABUS port. You have the USB model correct? You connect that to the Aquabus port on the Aquaero. Not a fan header.



red is the 3-Pin flowmeter header for the non-usb flometer. You connect the USB/Aquabus flowmeter to the High-Speed Aquabus Header circled green. You can't connect from Aquabus => Fan Header!!!

The reason that the flowmeter you bought costs more is because of the Aquabus/USB function. The cheaper one only has a 3Pin output which can be connected to the flow header or the first fan header. The USB/Aquabus version needs to be connected to the Aquabus, which is the whole purpose of paying extra for it


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> No the AQUABUS port. You have the USB model correct? You connect that to the Aquabus port on the Aquaero. Not a fan header.
> 
> 
> red is the 3-Pin flowmeter header for the non-usb flometer. You connect the USB/Aquabus flowmeter to the High-Speed Aquabus Header circled green. You can't connect from Aquabus => Fan Header!!!
> 
> The reason that the flowmeter you bought costs more is because of the Aquabus/USB function. The cheaper one only has a 3Pin output which can be connected to the flow header or the first fan header. The USB/Aquabus version needs to be connected to the Aquabus, which is the whole purpose of paying extra for it


I get what you are saying, but considering I have 3 D5 pumps on the high input you speak of, and a tubemeter on the low input, the only place left for the flow meter is the 1st PWM input.


----------



## SeeThruHead

This is actually quite confusing to me as well. Both the aquaero 5 and 6 have separate 3 pin connections for flow meters. They also allow you to change Fan 1 to a flow sensor connection in the aquasuite (this is in the manual.) But from what I can tell all the flow sensors they use are aquabus devices that need to be connected to the aquabus-high connector. And some require a 4 pin connection and some only require 3 pins. Which requires which is something I have yet to figure out. Also whether or not any of these flow meters can actually be used with either of the two flow sensor inputs on the aquaero5/6 and how to connect them if they do work. Maybe @Shoggy can shed some light on this


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> This is actually quite confusing to me as well. Both the aquaero 5 and 6 have separate 3 pin connections for flow meters. They also allow you to change Fan 1 to a flow sensor connection in the aquasuite (this is in the manual.) But from what I can tell all the flow sensors they use are aquabus devices that need to be connected to the aquabus-high connector. And some require a 4 pin connection and some only require 3 pins. Which requires which is something I have yet to figure out. Also whether or not any of these flow meters can actually be used with either of the two flow sensor inputs on the aquaero5/6 and how to connect them if they do work. Maybe @Shoggy can shed some light on this


I just got the 3 pin flow meter and called it a day. Here's the one I got if you're interested (unfortunately it does not come with the cable which you have to purchase separately):

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=32963&zenid=6d2decb3fef74ec9335b2d4ae5cc7d6f

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=33380&zenid=e8c91c663824d1979a06a7cd31cc14b0

Have a good one.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Still that doesn't really help clarify any if my questions. That's an aqua bus flow meter. You will need to connect it to the aqua bus port. As far as I know it will not work with the flow meter connections on the aquaero only the aqua bus. I could of course be wrong but I haven't seen anyone say otherwise. The mps flow sensors are the ones that need four pin aqua bus as they require power from the aquaero unit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> This is actually quite confusing to me as well. Both the aquaero 5 and 6 have separate 3 pin connections for flow meters. They also allow you to change Fan 1 to a flow sensor connection in the aquasuite (this is in the manual.) But from what I can tell all the flow sensors they use are aquabus devices that need to be connected to the aquabus-high connector. And some require a 4 pin connection and some only require 3 pins. Which requires which is something I have yet to figure out. Also whether or not any of these flow meters can actually be used with either of the two flow sensor inputs on the aquaero5/6 and how to connect them if they do work. Maybe @Shoggy can shed some light on this


Some of the simpler flow meters output a simple pulse train like a fan's tach signal.

That type of flow meter would lend itself to being read by the tach signal input on a fan channel.

Setting 1 channel to flowmeter in settings tells the software what factor to use on the pulse frequency to turn it into your preset flow rate units.

Better flow meters have a more complex bidirectional communication setup, and have to connect to an appropriate communications interface on the Aquaero, an aquabus port.

Now some confusion may come from the fact that there are both 3 pin and 4 pin devices that have to connect to an Aquabus port.

The 4th pin provides +5V for those devices that require it, and don't have some other means, (like a separate power connection) to provide it.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Ok as you can see from below picture the USB Flow meter uses either USB or AquaBus I see no where where you can hook this up to the AQ 5 or 6 any other way.



Now if you look at the cheaper Flow meter it can be hooked up to either the Flow Connection or Fan header 1 on the AQ 5 or 6



and If you have 3 D5 Pumps then you can have 1 Flow meter on Aquabus and then you can hook a regular flow meter to the flow setting or the 1st fan header. if it is a USB flow meter you can not do this..

If you need to hook up more than 1 USB flow meter with 3 D5 pumps I would recomend getting the below item..



this allows you to hook up a lot more USB items...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Still that doesn't really help clarify any if my questions. That's an aqua bus flow meter. You will need to connect it to the aqua bus port. As far as I know it will not work with the flow meter connections on the aquaero only the aqua bus. I could of course be wrong but I haven't seen anyone say otherwise. The mps flow sensors are the ones that need four pin aqua bus as they require power from the aquaero unit.


Actually that hooks to the flow meter header on the AQ 5 or 6, the flow header on a PA, it does not hook to the Aquabus..


----------



## SeeThruHead

I realized that after thinking about it a bit. I forgot that the aquastream XT and power adjust had both aqua bus and flow meter connectors. Seross what's that last unit you linked? Never seen it before.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I realized that after thinking about it a bit. I forgot that the aquastream XT and power adjust had both aqua bus and flow meter connectors. Seross what's that last unit you linked? Never seen it before.


It's the NZXT, USB Expander. one of the best $20 bills you'll ever spend,









http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27500

I have one on my tech bench, and have one for the stretch build, since quad GPU's blocks access to the onboard connections and the aquaeros need USB's.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I realized that after thinking about it a bit. I forgot that the aquastream XT and power adjust had both aqua bus and flow meter connectors. Seross what's that last unit you linked? Never seen it before.


Easier to show you but it expands USB bus look at it here

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27500


----------



## SeeThruHead

Wow internal USB hub with better power seems very nice. So what's the difference between the three pin flow meter and the USB version in the same housing? I could get either one it seems. Though the USB one would need to be daisy chained off my power adjust. While the 3 pin could just plug into the aquaero.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Wow internal USB hub with better power seems very nice. So what's the difference between the three pin flow meter and the USB version in the same housing? I could get either one it seems. Though the USB one would need to be daisy chained off my power adjust. While the 3 pin could just plug into the aquaero.


there is no difference in the way they work just in the way you connect them and the USB flow meter can work as a stand only device with Aquasuite..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> I think I'm going to grab an aq6 and just split the 17 fans onto 2 channels . I'll then use two channels for my mcp35x2. And a power adjust for the remaining 6 ap-15's.


you can use the swiftech 2 way PWM splitter that comes with the pump to run them off of one header.


----------



## SeeThruHead

That's what I'm doing now. But I want to read the rpm of each pump so that requires 2 header anyway. Might as well put them on their own channels if I can.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> That's what I'm doing now. But I want to read the rpm of each pump so that requires 2 header anyway. Might as well put them on their own channels if I can.


The only thing I would be worried about is them fighting each other. I'm not sure how that works. They seem to be susceptible to silicon lottery. One of my pumps is always 20-40RPM slower than the other. You can hear it in the pitch, as well as the read out when hooked up separately.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> That's what I'm doing now. But I want to read the rpm of each pump so that requires 2 header anyway. Might as well put them on their own channels if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I would be worried about is them fighting each other. I'm not sure how that works. They seem to be susceptible to silicon lottery. One of my pumps is always 20-40RPM slower than the other. You can hear it in the pitch, as well as the read out when hooked up separately.
Click to expand...

You are not hearing variations in rpm between the pumps.

Look at the math . .

Allow that there really is a 60rpm difference between them, that's only 1 Hz.

A pump at 3000 rpm is 50 Hz, so you're saying you can audibly tell the difference between 49 Hz and 50Hz.

You also have to keep in mind that the lowest resolution of rpm display is a 30 rpm increment, . . . ever notice that every speed displayed is a multiple of 30?

That comes from the fact that fans and pumps generate only 2 pulses per revolution, so 3000 rpm is 50 revolutions per second, times 2 pulses per rev, so 100 pulses for that minute.

The display samples the incoming pulse train for much less than a minute, typically a second, and them multiplies the number of pulses by 30 to give you the 3000 rpm readout.

If the pump runs slow by just 1 pulse, even if it's completed 179* of the 180* it needed to generate that next pulse, it shows up as 30rpm slower, when in reality, it was less than 1 rpm slower.

Pump rpm just does not not vary by anywhere near the amounts that you think it does based on the way the readout jumps around.

Centrifugal pumps work fine in series, even if there really is some small difference in their speeds. Only a positive displacement pump would have issues with uncompressible mediums.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Fine, I can still hear hear what sounds like two frequencies fighting with each other, when only the pump is running(can hear it over fans as well). My plebeian brain always assumed it was the two pumps running @ slightly different speeds.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Interesting. I've seen Martin's testing on running Different pumps in series song know performance will be fine. I'm sure any noise caused by that is offset by being able to run the pumps at their lowest setting. The pumps will be run at the same pwm duty cycle. Though it was thinking about adding 2 ac d5's to the loop later on.


----------



## Roikyou

anyone see where the fan controller no longer sense's 12v to the fan channel and runs it at max rpm? Mine randomly does this and loosing patience with this...


----------



## leighspped

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> anyone see where the fan controller no longer sense's 12v to the fan channel and runs it at max rpm? Mine randomly does this and loosing patience with this...


Check fan amp temp... When over 90c it's just tells fan to run at 100% it's amp cools


----------



## Roikyou

I set the software temp to run off aida64, defaults to 50 which still runs at full speed but when aida64 loads, it dropped down to 26, which I set to 1300 and I can see the temp showing correctly in the aqua software but where it shows 12v in aqua software, shows 0 volts, so it defaults to full. Moved it back to my motherboard, running like a charm...might have a 250 dollar paperweight.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I set the software temp to run off aida64, defaults to 50 which still runs at full speed but when aida64 loads, it dropped down to 26, which I set to 1300 and I can see the temp showing correctly in the aqua software but where it shows 12v in aqua software, shows 0 volts, so it defaults to full. Moved it back to my motherboard, running like a charm...might have a 250 dollar paperweight.


You updated to firmware 1036 right?

I had allot of freaky things going on with the original firmware. The only resolution was disconnecting it from USB then plugging it back in.

50 is the default temp for when the software sensor program (of choice) isn't on.


----------



## Roikyou

I saw in the lower left hand corner it shows "update firmware 1036" which when I first got it, it forced me to update the firmware but did not present it again. Any way to confirm the firmware version? I can try to update the firmware again and hope for the best.

What I find interesting is I remember there was a mention of this being superior over corsair link cause corsair link is software dependent but you need aida64 loaded to use temp sensor unless your basing it off a physical temp sensor directly connecting it to the unit. My point, it still has drawbacks. For advanced as this is and cost, I expected more. My thoughts and two cents.

Also, while I'm giving my two cents, it would have been nice to have additional fan modules, not linking older technology such as the 5 lt (with heat issues?) to control additional fans (only one pwm channel of the four) or reverse engineering the product to make it work properly to control more than one fan. Sorry, to me, it feels unfinished. This would have been a fun project to work in an electronics class to built a circuit to accomplish what were trying to do, for each task but I don't think that's what I signed up for.


----------



## skupples

I would first go down to "Aquasuite>>Settings>>uninstall Service""

then do

Aquearo>>System>>Firmware>>update firmware.

I have 28 fans & two pumps hooked up to mine right now, with no issues. Using physical temp sensors, & HWINFO64 to monitor 3x GPU's, CPU, Motherboard VRM & chipset. Even with all of those fans heavily throttled the amps don't break 28C, and the CPU sits @ 33C. You may have received a defective unit, or you are just confused as to how it functions. I can't really tell yet.

It doesn't need additional fan modules unless you exceed somewhere around 30 high speed fans.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeyBear*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, that's right. the waterblock can be used with the heatsink but not without.


thanks, do we really need a heatsink for aq6 ?Because as i read aq6 advertised to run much cooler than aq5


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would first go down to "Aquasuite>>Settings>>uninstall Service""
> 
> then do
> 
> Aquearo>>System>>Firmware>>update firmware.
> 
> I have 28 fans & two pumps hooked up to mine right now, with no issues. Using physical temp sensors, & HWINFO64 to monitor 3x GPU's, CPU, Motherboard VRM & chipset. Even with all of those fans heavily throttled the amps don't break 28C, and the CPU sits @ 33C. You may have received a defective unit, or you are just confused as to how it functions. I can't really tell yet.
> 
> It doesn't need additional fan modules unless you exceed somewhere around 30 high speed fans.


I'll try your steps, not at home at the moment but I'll make sure the firmware is up to date.

Reading through all the posts, it just seems like with pwm, there's a lot of confusion and modifications to make it works. Personally, I have 3 pin fans and thought about splitting those to be controlled by Aquaero and phasing out the corsair (although the led controller is straight forward and does a good job).

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16456/cab-972/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_3-Pin_to_9x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_48.html

So your controlling your pumps and fans probably off a inline temp sensor?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=32775

If your doing your control by physical temp sensor, no need for software, seems like the Aqua software only picks up small amounts of information from Aida64 anyways and Aqua software has a default Aqua cpu that looks on par with the cpu temp that I could use temporarily until I add an inline temp sensor.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks, do we really need a heatsink for aq6 ?Because as i read aq6 advertised to run much cooler than aq5


You really shouldn't, unless you plan to push it to it's physical extremes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try your steps, not at home at the moment but I'll make sure the firmware is up to date.
> 
> Reading through all the posts, it just seems like with pwm, there's a lot of confusion and modifications to make it works. Personally, I have 3 pin fans and thought about splitting those to be controlled by Aquaero and phasing out the corsair (although the led controller is straight forward and does a good job).
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16456/cab-972/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_3-Pin_to_9x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_48.html
> 
> So your controlling your pumps and fans probably off a inline temp sensor?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=32775
> 
> If your doing your control by physical temp sensor, no need for software, seems like the Aqua software only picks up small amounts of information from Aida64 anyways and Aqua software has a default Aqua cpu that looks on par with the cpu temp that I could use temporarily until I add an inline temp sensor
> 
> 
> .


I'm using physical temp sensors to get ambient case temp readings. I don't have any water sensors right now. I'm using HWINFO64 as the software temp sensors as I had allot of issues getting aida64 to even show up, & I don't see a need to pay for aida when you can use HWinfo64 for free. My temp curve is driven by GPU temp as I haven't found a way to setup what I would call "if/and/or" scenario. I would love to have a curve based off of CPU and/or GPU but I haven't figured that part out yet.

All four headers have PWM functionality. It's controlled via the advanced tab. Fans>>Chose fan>>scroll to bottom>>open Advanced

From what I understand if you run a slave it will not have PWM functionality, which means you would run your pumps off of the main unit, & 3 pin fans off of the slave unit.


----------



## Roikyou

I walked through the admin guide for this product to set up Aida64 and was able to set up cpu and gpu vram temps with no issues, I set both mcp35x fans (separate channels) to run based on a curve based on cpu which during boot up, until Aida64 loaded, went to full but again, still having 12v disappeared and I do have pwm set up under advanced.

There's probably something I'm missing for hwinfo to allow Aqua to see it as it's not in the drop down list when I set up temp sensors.

Thats why I listed that 3 x 9 splitter as it takes control from the first channel and splits power across all 9 fans.

I'd prefer to do an inline temp sensor and be done with the software, I would think the water temp curve would be more smoother than the cpu curve as the cpu spikes under load, usually from around 30 idle to upper 40's under load. I set up a curve to work around that sudden spike.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks, do we really need a heatsink for aq6 ?Because as i read aq6 advertised to run much cooler than aq5


Hi Ozzy, as Skupples say, unless your pushing the fan channels to the limit, it's not going to benefit you really, just for aesthetics. I thought I read a post that stated the extra headroom you could get when using the heatsink, I can't find it though so I may have dreamt that...


----------



## ozzy1925

thanks,i am trying to arrange my loop route and it i will be really hard for me to reach up to aquaero if i use waterblock (acrylic tubing)I think i will just use the passive heatsink.


----------



## Roikyou

So, it showed bios up to date but I flashed the bios again, it restored bios defaults, went through, set it up, seems to be working. Makes sense, can't run a profile based on an old bios, would be quirky. I probably could have loaded bios defaults and accomplished the same thing.

Next thing, when you first boot up, does the aqua take a little bit till it loads it's own configuration? My pumps kick up 100% then drop after a short time.

I like hwinfo but when you set the sensors to load at boot, you still have to launch, it pops up, you just have to click it.

So many things could be streamlined. Going to give it a couple days and if it's stables, next step is to daisy chain my fans off the third fan controller, then inline temp sensors, possible battery so I have the option of unplugging it from the motherboard.

So little in the manual, setting up the clock, I was like what is "1", then it dawned on me, scrolled through, found neg 8, time was now set. (Neg 8 gmt, west coast...). Thanks for that hint in the manual.


----------



## skupples

I don't notice mine spinning up to 100%. It may be happening due to the fall back temps while the sensor program is loading in... The best sensors for fan/pump curves would be physical though.

Like I said, to get mine to stop acting quirky I had to "uninstall service"

aquasuite>>settings>>uninstall service>> then manually uninstalled aquasuite entirely

I then unplugged it from the USB>>plugged it back in>>re-installed the suite>>updated bios...

For some reason the unit was confused and thought that bios 1034 was the most up 2 date bios before doing all of that.


----------



## Roikyou

Front panel shows 1036 and software shows 1036. The spin up is very short but I might try that just to see if it eliminates. The only physical is ambient and I don't think that would be good enough to set up a curve right now. Going to try the inline temp, ordering those Monday with the 3x9 splitter to control my fans, add the temps supplied, finish some wiring and hopefully call it good for now.

Thanks again for your help and input +rep


----------



## skupples

I'm sure you have seen this, but the advanced tap under the fan profiles has "use start boost" Which sounds like what you are describing.

It's a great unit, definitely cream of the crop for system/cooling control, but it's definitely finicky, and could definitely benefit from a more in depth user manual.

Good luck!

Avoid the "Phobya" branded fan splitters, they are absolute garbage. I have to use electricians tape to hold the contacts together. I have gone through about 10 of them, all of them are the same.


----------



## Roikyou

I'll check start boost, confident it's not checked but you never know.

Looking at modright splitter for the fans and staying with aqua inline temp sensor.


----------



## IT Diva

PWM D5 . . . . . Mystery Solved

So I got all my Aquaeros set up on the tech bench and did most all the basic configurations.

I set up one A6 with a 5LT slave for the rad fans

I set up the other A6 to be able to control the 3 pairs of PWM D5's, one pair per channel, with a spare channel, if I don't want to run them from the manual controller.

As everyone knows, the PWM D5's don't seem to work with the A6 PWM control mode.

The issue is that the pumps, by design, have no internal pull-up resistor for the PWM signal line, It's necessary to be that way, so that the other circuitry can run the pump at 60% when there's no PWM signal.

The D5 needs to have an active, or sourced, PWM signal to over ride the 60% circuitry.

The A6 uses what's effectively an open collector for the PWM line. (which gives you buttkiss when trying to use it with a D5)

In other words, it doesn't source a signal, it just pulls low, (connects to ground) so if there's already a fixed level being applied, then there's pulses created.

The simple solution, once I figured out the problem, was to implement a +5V level that I could then connect the PWM line to with a resistor to act as the pull-up, so A6 could effectively source a signal.

I put all the little parts right at the 4 pin plug.

It takes the +12V pin and Gnd pin from the A6 output since they're not being used to power the pump(s).

I used a Zener diode and current limiting resistor to create a +5V source from the 12V and Gnd pins

Then used another resistor from the +5V source to the PWM pin

The A6 seems a bit unique in how it handles PWM, (I'm being charitable here) so I had to experimented a bit to try to get a fairly optimal value for the pull-up, since it really made a difference in how slow it could run based on whether it had a strong or a weak pull-up.

It works best with weak pull ups;

For dual D5's, 4.7K works about perfect, lowest it slows down to is ~1050 rpm, and maxes out at ~4400

For a single D5, 5.6K to 6.8K will be what it takes.

Going to lower values, (I tried 1K, 2.2K, 3.2K) while there's less voltage drop from the 5V, it also won't run as low an rpm as with higher values with more drop.

In the coming days, I'll look at using an op amp circuit to act as a unity gain buffer between the A6 and the D5 on the PWM line .

Its high input impedance won't load the A6, and it can source and sink from its low impedance output.

I'd really like to get a control signal that meets PWM specs in operation.

A bit more work yet to do, but I do have decent PWM control of the D5's from a sub 1100 rpm minimum up to the pumps max of ~4400.

Darlene

Here's the pics:

+5V source and pull-up resistor:



Narrow pulse width for a near minimum rpm:



Medium pulse width for a mid speed

]

About 85% duty cycle here and max rpm at ~4400


----------



## kpoeticg

Great work!!


----------



## IT Diva

A Little More Follow Up

So I spent the day looking at ways to improve the A6 PWM control of the PWM D5 pumps.

I built a buffer amp circuit that puts almost zero load on the A6, but allows for a lot of loading on its own output, so that it can feed a lot of devices and not have how many effect the pulse shape.

Quite handily, it has 4 channels and takes 12V power from the A6 when the first channel is plugged up.

I set up my USB connected scope to the laptop, and observed the pulse as it comes from the A6, (chan 2) and from the buffer amp, (chan 1)

The crux of why the D5's don't work connected directly to the A6 was described above, the A6 does not have an active PWM signal The buffer amp does, but unfortunately, getting everything to play nicely wasn't going to be so easy as that.

The A6 pulse shape is not shaped well . . . . meaning that what should be vertical leading and trailing edges are angled and not well defined as "square".

Additionally, and the real problem is, that while set to zero duty cycle there's still some DC output level which the D5 circuitry sees as some amount of pulse width, and when set at 1%, the actual pulse width is 30% which runs the pump(s) way too fast for such a low % setting.

AC needs to fix the low range of the PWM circuitry to deliver down to 10% at least.

Searching for a work around, I found the D5 is sensitive to the amplitude of the pulses as well as the width, like it adds up all the energy under the pulse shape.

The standard is for a +5V pulse, but as you get below 4V the 30% duty cycle starts acting like a normal 5V pulse with a much shorter duty cycle.

Ultimately, the best work around was to add little trim potentiometers in each channel's pull-up, so that a lower P-U voltage yields a lower output pulse voltage, and the pumps run much slower than they otherwise would at that PWM %.

At this point, I'm rather hesitant to use the 2nd A6 in my build, as I already have an excellent manual control setup, and pumps can be a set & forget proposition under many circumstances.

I'll have to wait and see what some new firmware versions bring before I make a final decision.

Darlene

Here's the scope of the buffer amp output to the pumps on the top, and the A6 output to the buffer on the bottom.

The setting as shown in the next pic is 1% in Aquasuite, but 30% in reality .

The last pic is the buffer amp circuit.

I got the most useful range of control with the A6 output attenuated to just under 4V.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> AC needs to fix the low range of the PWM circuitry to deliver down to 10% at least.


You can already use the full range, it only depends on your settings. I assume in the fan tab you have set a minimum value for the fans. This minimum and maximum value is scaled to the range of 0 - 100% which is the reason why you can not come any lower than your current minimum setting. Just change it to 0% and you can use the full range.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Roikyou

So, I talked with AquaComputer support and got the following response so far.

"If you are using this pump via PWM control I can already tell you that this will not work. Swiftechs PWM implementation does not use a pull-up function to raise the voltage of the PWM input signal to be useable for the electronic inside the pump. This pull-up function is part of Intels official specifications for the PWM control. If the PWM control would follow this standard there would be no problem with the aquaero.

In this case you could only control the pump by its voltage and not using the PWM control at all. When the pump gets no PWM signal it will automatically run at full speed."

So, I'm going to switch to voltage, set up a curve and see if I get those spikes I have been getting which makes sense if Swiftech does not follow standards, looses the pwm signal and spikes to 4500 (or somebody is not following standards)...

I'm also trying to find out which pumps are support (I'm sure AquaComputer's are supported) but I've already invested in two Swiftech mcp35x pumps and a bay reservoir, so I'm not ready to just dump and run with another setup.


----------



## VSG

I can control my mcp35x just fine by PWM control on the AQ6, and Skupples can confirm his mcp35x2 works great too.


----------



## Roikyou

I also can control it but I do get spikes like it looses the signal, again, makes sense. I was running most of the day yesterday, I didn't see too many spikes, usually after boot but during normal operation, runs with no issues. I mostly wanted to share what information was given to me so far by they're support as I want to get to the bottom of this, there shouldn't be any spikes, boot up or not as it stores the info in the Aquaero device and as long as the fan or Aquaero provides or receives the pwm signal, it should work, my opinion. That's one of the benefits, it stores the config in the Aquaero device, not software and if the Aquaero cpu sensor signal is there, then it should work. If it depends on a software signal to read information from the motherboard, then I could see the lag or spike during boot. I'm going to try the inline temp sensor from Aquaero and run a curve based on those temps, see if it's smoother.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I got 2 inline sensors and 1 stop plug sensor that I use- very handy! I am considering buying AIDA to do a delta T type curve as well to try it out.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I got 2 inline sensors and 1 stop plug sensor that I use- very handy! I am considering buying AIDA to do a delta T type curve as well to try it out.


Whats the stop plug sensor used for, temp or pressure? Is it Aquaero's?


----------



## VSG

Temperature, on a radiator. I don't use it to set any curves- just to see how much that rad effects temps at different fan speeds. It is a bitspower sensor, the other inline ones I got are from Aquacomputer and Phobya (1 each). All work fine so far- the aquacomputer one actually has the shortest cord length so I preferred the other two for ease of installation in my loop.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> AC needs to fix the low range of the PWM circuitry to deliver down to 10% at least.
> 
> 
> 
> You can already use the full range, it only depends on your settings*. I assume in the fan tab you have set a minimum value for the fans.* This minimum and maximum value is scaled to the range of 0 - 100% which is the reason why you can not come any lower than your current minimum setting. Just change it to 0% and you can use the full range.
Click to expand...

Shoggy,

I'll check this out when I get home from work.

I didn't set a minimum, but if it's set by default, I'll change it and see if that's the answer.

If so, them my circuit should work perfectly.
















Thanks

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Shoggy, Darlene, I don't know if this helps but that was one of the first things I tested out and changing the minimum to zero did nothing compared to the default value- at least for my pump and fans.


----------



## kpoeticg

My 35x works great off PWM on the Aquaero. Absolutely perfect. I have minimum set to 17% and maximum set to 70% in fan profiles. Then i get 0-100 in fan curves. I thought the issue was specifically with the D5PWM not the 35x.

Also, does anybody know if Swiftech impements the PWM in the 35x, or is it the same pcb as a Laing DDC 3.2 PWM?


----------



## skupples

@Roikyou I would PM Bramsli1(swiftech forum rep) if you are having these issues with the MCP35x series of pumps, also just double check your connections, molex/pwm splitter/connection to aquearo.

My mcp35x2 will not respond to the voltage mode, or speed mode @ all.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @Roikyou I would PM Bramsli1(swiftech forum rep) if you are having these issues with the MCP35x series of pumps, also just double check your connections, molex/pwm splitter/connection to aquearo.
> 
> My mcp35x2 will not respond to the voltage mode, or speed mode @ all.


Lol, are you trying voltage mode/speed mode with the pump powered off a Molex?
















If you're not using PWM, you need a molex => 3Pin for the pump =)


----------



## skupples

ohhhh....Well, good thing it works as intended w/ PWM...


----------



## kpoeticg

Indeed =)

I can't say i've exactly "tested" the PWM range, but it's responding to the curve i set up just like i expected it to. I think my curve goes between like 2000-4550RPM


----------



## skupples

My pumps top out ~63%... Also, while Darlene tells me it's not possible, I can hear a pitch war between the two of them. One reports to run slightly slower than the other (at any speed and will never match speeds even when offset) but according to D the amount is so tiny that it's not possible to hear the difference, YET I still hear them having a resonance battle.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well i just ordered 2 more + the XSPC triple top & 3 EK Heatsinks last night so i'll let you know my results soon









Edit: I don't know the exact PWM range on the 35x, but between testing i've seen Darlene do + Swiftech's White Pages, i know 17-70 is somewhere around the duty cycle range. You'll have better results with your fan curves if you set your 35x profile somewhere in that range and tick the "Hold Minimum" box


----------



## skupples

I'm thinking about adding a third pump as well, I just don't have room for the EK syncs.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, are you trying voltage mode/speed mode with the pump powered off a Molex?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're not using PWM, you need a molex => 3Pin for the pump =)


Glad you mentioned that, so you would have to get a connector to go from 4 pin molex to 4 pin (on these pumps, theres only the 12 volt and ground from what I remember, don't remember a tach or frequency wire) on the Aquaero and leave the pwm unplugged, then adjust power at the molex connector. Guess it should work either way but it would be nice if it worked as intended.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah Darlene helped me make the decision to go with the triple. I'm gonna be cooling a Supremacy, RIVE BE Full Block, 2 Ram Blocks, 3 AC 290x Blocks + Passive Backplates, 4 rads, flowmeter/tempsensors/angles & rotaries, etc....

Seems logical

Also, got my Aquaero Backplate on the way, gonna throw a block on that as well =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Glad you mentioned that, so you would have to get a connector to go from 4 pin molex to 4 pin (on these pumps, theres only the 12 volt and ground from what I remember, don't remember a tach or frequency wire) on the Aquaero and leave the pwm unplugged, then adjust power at the molex connector. Guess it should work either way but it would be nice if it worked as intended.


Are you talking about the 35x? I don't know why it wouldn't work as intended, it does for me. But if you wanted to voltage control it, then the voltage would need to be coming from the Aquaero.

The 35x has 4 wires coming from it. 12v & Ground going to Molex, and RPM & PWM going to fan header. Aquacomputer sells a DDC cable for connecting DDC pumps. You could buy one or just make it yourself.

Don't worry about 4Pin fan connector. If you're using Voltage Control, then you won't be using the PWM wire. Just the 12v, Ground, & RPM


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah Darlene helped me make the decision to go with the triple. I'm gonna be cooling a Supremacy, RIVE BE Full Block, 2 Ram Blocks, 3 AC 290x Blocks + Passive Backplates, 4 rads, flowmeter/tempsensors/angles & rotaries, etc....
> 
> Seems logical
> 
> Also, got my Aquaero Backplate on the way, gonna throw a block on that as well =)
> 
> Are you talking about the 35x? I don't know why it wouldn't work as intended, it does for me. But if you wanted to voltage control it, then the voltage would need to be coming from the Aquaero.
> 
> The 35x has 4 wires coming from it. 12v & Ground going to Molex, and RPM & PWM going to fan header. Aquacomputer sells a DDC cable for connecting DDC pumps. You could buy one or just make it yourself.
> 
> Don't worry about 4Pin fan connector. If you're using Voltage Control, then you won't be using the PWM wire. Just the 12v, Ground, & RPM


Thats what I remember on the mcp35x, two connectors, pwm and molex 12v/ground. It's evading how to get a tach signal from just two wires as you would not use the pwm. Make sense?

(light bulb just lit up...)

So the Aquacomputer DDC cable combines the two connectors basically using rpm, 12v and ground, that makes sense...

This would be the guy your talking about

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15752/bus-310/Aquacomputer_Pump_Connection_Cable_for_Poweradjust_2_and_Aquaero_Series_53053.html

So if I don't get pwm working, two more cables to clog up my case... (which it is working, just spikes once in a while at boot up)


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that's the right cable

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Thats what I remember on the mcp35x, two connectors, pwm and molex 12v/ground. *It's evading how to get a tach signal from just two wires as you would not use the pwm. Make sense?*
> 
> (light bulb just lit up...)
> 
> So the Aquacomputer DDC cable combines the two connectors basically using rpm, 12v and ground, that makes sense...
> 
> This would be the guy your talking about
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15752/bus-310/Aquacomputer_Pump_Connection_Cable_for_Poweradjust_2_and_Aquaero_Series_53053.html
> 
> So if I don't get pwm working, two more cables to clog up my case... (which it is working, just spikes once in a while at boot up)


I don't understand what you're saying. The 35x has FOUR wires coming from it. Ground | 12V => Molex. RPM | PWM => Fan header

If you use a 3Pin fan connector because you wanna voltage control it, then you wouldn't need the PWM wire. You'd need to send the Ground, 12V, & RPM to the 3Pin fan connector and connect that to the Aquaero or a Power Adjust. Which is exactly what that cable does. =)

You can't get a Tach Signal without the Tach Wire....


----------



## VSG

Why would someone want to run the 35x off voltage? Just curious since from everything I have heard so far that isn't the best of ideas.


----------



## kpoeticg

I generally wouldn't recommend it unless you don't have any other option. Might as well get a non-pwm ddc


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> My pumps top out ~63%... Also, while Darlene tells me it's not possible, I can hear a pitch war between the two of them. One reports to run slightly slower than the other (at any speed and will never match speeds even when offset) but according to D the amount is so tiny that it's not possible to hear the difference, YET I still hear them having a resonance battle.


You said one pump is running 40 rpm less than the other.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beat_(acoustics)

This page has some example mp3s http://www.animations.physics.unsw.edu.au/jw/beats.htm


----------



## skupples

sounds like the "beats @ 1hz" and the "beats @ 1hz-10hz"

+1


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I don't understand what you're saying. The 35x has *FOUR wires coming from it*. Ground | 12V => Molex. RPM | PWM => Fan header
> If you use a 3Pin fan connector because you wanna voltage control it, then you wouldn't need the PWM wire. You'd need to send the Ground, 12V, & RPM to the 3Pin fan connector and connect that to the Aquaero or a Power Adjust. Which is exactly what that cable does. =)
> 
> You can't get a Tach Signal without the Tach Wire....


Right, two connectors, four wires total. The connector I showed above, combines the two to one, which gives power, ground and rpm. I'm with ya.

I agree, if it's pwm, why would you want to go another route, add another connector just to bypass it's intended function other than one of the two is not playing by the rules, either Swiftech or Aquaero in regards to pwm and how it's suppose to work. Maybe my Aquaero is unique and an issue working correctly.


----------



## kpoeticg

Did you set the fan profile to the PWM curve? If you have the fan profile as 0-100% and the curve at 0-100%, it's not gonna work as you're expecting. The 35x PWM Duty cycle maxes out somewhere between 60-70% and the minimum for it is somewhere between 10-20%. So you should set that in the fan profile, along with "Hold Minimum" and PWM (Obviously







)

The issue with voltage controlling pwm devices is they have different circuitry than their analog counterparts. Voltage Controlling PWM devices will shorten the lifespan and can have other negative effects. It would be better to sell your 35x and buy a regular DDC without PWM.

But if you wanna voltage control it, that cable will do the trick for ya









The Aquaero is definitely capable of PWM controlling a 35x, so either you set it up wrong in Aquasuite or one of your devices is faulty. It would be good to find out which one so you can RMA and get sorted out. The PWM D5 is a different matter that Darlene's explained in the past few pages.

Can you PWM control your 35x from your mobo PWM header? Or PWM control another device from your Aquaero? You should troubleshoot and find out what's causing the problem. Maybe even faulty wiring?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Did you set the fan profile to the PWM curve? If you have the fan profile as 0-100% and the curve at 0-100%, it's not gonna work as you're expecting. The 35x PWM Duty cycle maxes out somewhere between 60-70% and the minimum for it is somewhere between 10-20%. So you should set that in the fan profile, along with "Hold Minimum" and PWM (Obviously
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> The issue with voltage controlling pwm devices is they have different circuitry than their analog counterparts. Voltage Controlling PWM devices will shorten the lifespan and can have other negative effects. It would be better to sell your 35x and buy a regular DDC without PWM.
> 
> But if you wanna voltage control it, that cable will do the trick for ya


Don't think I tried the hold minimum, I think the duty cycle I set was between 10% and 70%, I'll make sure those are set, see if that boot up spike goes away.

I agree, I would rather sell the two pumps and bay, go a different direction. After my last Swiftech burned up, left scorch marks on my cd-rom, I'm getting a bad taste in my mouth.

Controlling the two mcp35x from the motherboard worked with no issues.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> AC needs to fix the low range of the PWM circuitry to deliver down to 10% at least.
> 
> 
> 
> You can already use the full range, it only depends on your settings*. I assume in the fan tab you have set a minimum value for the fans.* This minimum and maximum value is scaled to the range of 0 - 100% which is the reason why you can not come any lower than your current minimum setting. Just change it to 0% and you can use the full range.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Shoggy,
> 
> I'll check this out when I get home from work.
> 
> I didn't set a minimum, but if it's set by default, I'll change it and see if that's the answer.
> 
> If so, them my circuit should work perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Got home a little while ago, sheeeesh what a long dayyyyyy. . . . .

But had to check your info . . .

*Perfect, absolutely perfect*

After considerable testing, to get it dialed in just right, I ended up setting min power to 17% and max to 70% with "Hold min power" option ticked.

The slider gives me total control with min pump speed of ~809 rpm at 0 and 1 % with a steady increase in rpms all the way to 99% where it hits max, and 100% still stays at max of ~4500.

The waveform isn't very pretty from what I'm used to seeing for PWM control, but it works perfectly anyway, so I'll take it.

I was also able to disable the attenuation capability on my little DIY circuit board, since it's not needed, now that I understand how to set Aquasuite better.

The PWM D5's with a little DIY mod module now work Primo with the A6, it's a keeper for sure . . . . .
















For you guys with the 35X's, I have a dual setup to use for testing, so I'll try to get something definitive with scope shots done over this weekend.

I want to look at how much loading effect it has on the A6, if it's too much, that could be causing the control signal to be lost or misread by the pump and concurrent speed increases.

For now, here's some pics of how the dual D5 setup is performing, low speeds and then max:

The lower trace, yellow color, is the A6 PWM pin output while the upper trace, green color, is the buffer module PWM output that the pump sees.

The dual pumps have the PWM line on a splitter cable so 1 channel of the A6, RED Loop Pumps, runs them both, with the RPM being read from just one.

Darlene

0% set in the Preset Value field, 809 RPM:



scope shot:



1% in Preset, 809 RPM:



Scope:



3% in Preset, 880 RPM:



Scope:



5% in Preset, 1029 RPM:



Scope:



Maxed at 100% in Preset, 4497 RPM:



Scope:


----------



## Roikyou

I think the hold minimum power was the key, forgot to check this for both pumps, one started up at 1300, the other at 4500. Going to shut down and power it up, see if it resolves it.







So, I powered it down, let it set for a few seconds, powered it up, the Aquaero had a splash screen where it was booting up, I could hear the pumps at 4500 then as soon as the splash screen went away, it went right to the minimum fan rpm, right around 1300. Sounds like it was the hold minimum power. I think it's working as intended and I'm content with the performance, I can deal with a couple seconds while the os of the Aquaero boots up.

Next step, move the five radiator fans to the Aquaero via a 3pin splitter to the third channel.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> So, I powered it down, let it set for a few seconds, powered it up, the Aquaero had a splash screen where it was booting up, I could hear the pumps at 4500 then as soon as the splash screen went away, it went right to the minimum fan rpm, right around 1300. Sounds like it was the hold minimum power. I think it's working as intended and I'm content with the performance, I can deal with a couple seconds while the os of the Aquaero boots up.


Did you try setting both "hold minimum power" and "use start boost" (try 20%)?


----------



## IT Diva

For you guys with PWM D5's . . . . .

Would you be interested in me doing a little single, (or optionally dual) channel DIY buffer board project to be able to run your D5, or dual D5 pump setup with your A6 . . .

It would all done with parts you can get easily from RadioShack for a few dollars so you can do it yourself with minimal soldering skills and tools?

It would be able to either have the 5V voltage regulator onboard so it could be powered from the A6 when it's plugged into a fan channel, or optionally, just get its 5V supply from a molex so you have less parts to put together, but another wire to have to connect

I'll use a 4 pin fan extension cable to be able to make it easy to put in the pump control line in a modular fashion.

It should be about half the size of the one I built, maybe slightly less, if you have the onboard 5V regulator setup, and smaller if you want to use a molex.

Either way it would be small enough to stick it behind the A6 in the same bay.

Darlene

The original one I made works with all 4 A6 channels and uses a quad op-amp.

A single or dual channel version would only need an 8pin IC with wiring made a buttload easier.


----------



## MrStrat007

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys with PWM D5's . . . . .
> 
> Would you be interested in me doing a little single, (or optionally dual) channel DIY buffer board project to be able to run your D5, or dual D5 pump setup with your A6 . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It would all done with parts you can get easily from RadioShack for a few dollars so you can do it yourself with minimal soldering skills and tools?
> 
> It would be able to either have the 5V voltage regulator onboard so it could be powered from the A6 when it's plugged into a fan channel, or optionally, just get its 5V supply from a molex so you have less parts to put together, but another wire to have to connect
> 
> I'll use a 4 pin fan extension cable to be able to make it easy to put in the pump control line in a modular fashion.
> 
> It should be about half the size of the one I built, maybe slightly less, if you have the onboard 5V regulator setup, and smaller if you want to use a molex.
> 
> Either way it would be small enough to stick it behind the A6 in the same bay.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> The original one I made works with all 4 A6 channels and uses a quad op-amp.
> 
> A single or dual channel version would only need an 8pin IC with wiring made a buttload easier.


I would definitely be interested in this (dual d5 pwm, planning on adding in the Aquaero 6 when I get my tax return! If I can fight it into my 900d front bays, if not, I'll mod it in there somehow but that's a story for another day).

I think this would be really helpful for those with pwm D5's and this controller


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Did you try setting both "hold minimum power" and "use start boost" (try 20%)?


Why would you use both options?

Here's another response from Aquaero:

"Using the CPU temperature of the system is always a so called software sensor which must be set up by you first."

My grief on the cpu temperature sensor is if you don't use physical, you have to use software, open hardware mon, aida64 or hwinfo64, which has to be loaded after the os boots, so you have that initial temperature of 50 degree's. I don't care for hwinfo64 as it also has a check box or pop up you have to check before it loads. open hardware mon loads without any additional pop ups and not sure about iad64 but paying for it doesn't sit well with me.

I did order inline temp sensor so I can get past the software deal...

Here's the next thing Aquaero mentioned:

"We have pretty much no experience with PWM pumps since they are also uncommon here in Germany. I have no special recommendation for a PWM pump."

I'm finding that hard to believe, they just told me (same person) that it's swiftech's fault for not following standard. How do you know unless you have one to test on a bench?

I also asked about a 3 pin to 9 pin splitter

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16456/cab-972/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_3-Pin_to_9x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_48.html?id=5QQ2ayGi&mv_pc=1205

Got this response

"The mentioned adapter should work but it will also depend a lot on the fans if that works correctly or not. With too much fans it is possible that the PWM signal becomes to weak and can not be triggered by the fans anymore."

I mean, wasn't the first page boasting 40 fans, 20 per channel, this a 9 pin splitter which i'm only going to run five fans?... Actually, reading that again, it's a 3 pin, has nothing to do with the 4th pin which is the pwm signal, so, at a loss again...

It's like pulling teeth getting things straight and setting this up...


----------



## leighspped

i haven't order from aqua tuning and they seam to be the only people with a touch screen model in stock.... should i order it from them I'm a little wary of ordering form a new site? i normal only buy from frozencpu bc the north east coast based and ship really quickly

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html

lastly does this interfere with the touch screen acrylic cover for display?

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16356_Aquacomputer-Acrylic-glass-display-cover-for-aquaero-5-6-PRO.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Why would you use both options?


Why not? To see what it does? You said you are still getting a short burst of 100% when starting the PC so seems logical to me that start burst setting of 20% will fix it. I don't promise it will though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> It's like pulling teeth getting things straight and setting this up...


Aquaero gives you more flexibility than standard fan controllers, it means there is more to learn and it's not really a turnkey solution. Maybe try to enjoy the learning process, perhaps you will discover something new that solves another problem you were having, or it gives you ideas for further modding.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Why not? To see what it does? You said you are still getting a short burst of 100% when starting the PC so seems logical to me that start burst setting of 20% will fix it. I don't promise it will though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero gives you more flexibility than standard fan controllers, it means there is more to learn and it's not really a turnkey solution. Maybe try to enjoy the learning process, perhaps you will discover something new that solves another problem you were having, or it gives you ideas for further modding.


I though about doing a quick video so people could see what I see. The hold minimum took care of most of it, it's the boot up that the fan runs fast or loading the software (on the operating system side) that also causes the spike, it's not the aquaero, I think once I switch to physical sensors, i'll be good.

If you boot your computer, watch the aqauero, you will see it go through a couple screens while it boots up till it comes to the final screen, I think three total, last screen shows your current bios, you will get a short burst during that time that I think is unavoidable (probably loss of pwm for a sort time is my guess). Also, I've still got a little air in my lines so I really know the pump speed compared to if they were totally bled and in a air free state. (getting quieter every day as I just set this up again no too long ago)


----------



## skupples

So strange I don't have to do any of these things for my pump. Maybe it's because I am using the splitter to run both of them off of one header


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So strange I don't have to do any of these things for my pump. Maybe it's because I am using the splitter to run both of them off of one header


But your running your curve off a physical sensor vs a software sensor, correct?


----------



## dpoverlord

So got the new PSU seems that its the controllor if I turn off the computer it fails again. Back to deciding what to buy now for air fans


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> But your running your curve off a physical sensor vs a software sensor, correct?


it doesn't matter how I do it my pump never revs up to 100% when turning on the computer. Have you checked the USB cable to make sure its hooked up properly?

the only physical sensor I use is ambient temperature.. my curve uses a software sensor from HWinfo64.

the more I hear the more I think you have something set funky. Does it do this when you don't use a curve? Does it do it when you ONLY have the speed set via the Fan profile?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> it doesn't matter how I do it my pump never revs up to 100% when turning on the computer. Have you checked the USB cable to make sure its hooked up properly?
> 
> the only physical sensor I use is ambient temperature.. my curve uses a software sensor from HWinfo64.
> 
> the more I hear the more I think you have something set funky. Does it do this when you don't use a curve? Does it do it when you ONLY have the speed set via the Fan profile?


I'll try removing the profile but here's a thought also, if you run off software, the OS has to boot and load the aqua software, till it does, it defaults to 50 degrees and whatever fan speed that is, that is the fan speed I am talking about now as the minimum resolved the 4500 spike, now when aqua goes through boot up, the 50 degrees is little over 3k for me as that is what I set it in the curve till the software loads then it's down to 1300. Make sense? I'm hoping I'm describing it properly. I can tell my fan speeds as I previously mentioned just cause the air in the lines, makes more noise at higher speeds till I bleed it all out.

Oh, I wanted to thank everyone again for the input and suggestions, you've provided more support than what I've found in the manual or talking with Aquaero.


----------



## Roikyou

Found that I left the fallback temp sensor to the default of 50 degrees, so until the software loads in the operating system, it would use that reference. Changed that to 25.



That resolved that 3k to 3.2k until the software loads.

The first two to three seconds where Aquaero loads is still there but again, I think that's because the pwm has no signal and runs full.

Edit: I confirmed with Aquaero that those first couple seconds are the boot and load times of the Aquaero device as expected. I'm guessing it's happening but most don't notice it.


----------



## leighspped

Frozencpu has the touch screen model as order able again, just ordered mine


----------



## Neo Zuko

HELP!! SOS!! (sorry for the long post in advance, but I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue).

OK, I'm getting my list together and here we go again with the Aquacomputer confusion for my parts list. I've tried to research this before and I always end up frustrated. So perhaps OCN could lay it all out for me.

Main Aquacomputer parts I want to order:

1. Aquaero 6 XT Fan Controller Monitor

2. Aqualis XT Reservoir (45386)

3. Aquatube Reservoir (bay mounted, black aquatube as there is no more all copper version, so sad)





Note: I'm using separate pumps, new soon to be released Swiftech ones, so that most likely will not be integrated into the reservoir directly unless Aquacomputer gets some new tops going for them.

Questions: The trouble I have is figuring out all the bits and extras to order up (not counting normal compression fittings, I can count 2 per device myself LOL). I want everything I need to make full use of these parts but nothing super unnecessary. I figure I only need two temperature probes (spaced out in the loop) and I figure inline is best. Did I get that right? I know I need a flow sensor to make sure the PC will shut down via the Aquaero in case of a massive failure. But I don't know which one to get, there are three different ranges. Do I need a pressure sensor as well? Do I need a fill meter as well? Also, what size LEDs will fit into all these parts? Do I need any special Aquacomputer wires to make the system work (besides fan extensions)? Anything I might have missed? I should be able to figure out the mounting parts to order and the faceplates but I really need help on the other stuff.

Click Spoiler to read the rest:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



EDIT:

OK, after going threw everything I have no idea the differences here, if all of these types of things are even needed, or which of these of a particular type is the one to get. My comprehensive PC parts list (also in my signature drop down rig link below):



1.


2.


3.


4.


5.


6.


7.


8.


9.


10.


11.


Here are maybe things I need but I'm not sure. I am doing custom cables, so I see possibly some of these are not needed, but again not sure which I should buy or not:

12.


13.


14.


15.


16.


17.


And finally, here are things I know I need (the order list so far):

18.


19.


20.


21.


22.


23.


24.


25.


26.


27.


28.


Anything I should double up on quantity? Anything I should add or delete from the list, say if one of my main products comes with something already (like cables on the fan controller or equalization fittings on the reservoir), and I need some more info on the maybes and the I have no clue lists.

I would like to get a definitive list to order up ready. Thanks for any help in advance.

EDIT: Those Dual G-1/4 threads on the fill port look mighty close together, I may have issues with that I think.

My biggest issues are which exact flow meter should I get, if a pressure meter is useful to me, and if a fill level meter is useful to me. And which ones those should I get if I get them.


----------



## Holynacho

Hey everyone, quick question, was playing around with my Aquaero 6 pro, everything seems to be working great, but i can't get the RGB led to light up at all. Just for testing purposes I set it to read temp sensor 1 at operating temp and set the temp to whatever the sensor was reading (23c). Whatever levels of red, green, blue i set, nothing happens. Is there something i need to set up further?


----------



## Neo Zuko

I hope they still support that RGB LED. I was hoping they would support like four of them on the Aquaero 6 back when there was only the Aquaero 5.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> HELP!! SOS!! (sorry for the long post in advance, but I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I'm getting my list together and here we go again with the Aquacomputer confusion for my parts list. I've tried to research this before and I always end up frustrated. So perhaps OCN could lay it all out for me.
> 
> Main Aquacomputer parts I want to order:
> 
> 1. Aquaero 6 XT Fan Controller Monitor
> 
> 2. Aqualis XT Reservoir (45386)
> 
> 3. Aquatube Reservoir (bay mounted, black aquatube as there is no more all copper version, so sad)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: I'm using separate pumps, new soon to be released Swiftech ones, so that most likely will not be integrated into the reservoir directly unless Aquacomputer gets some new tops going for them.
> 
> Questions: The trouble I have is figuring out all the bits and extras to order up (not counting normal compression fittings, I can count 2 per device myself LOL). I want everything I need to make full use of these parts but nothing super unnecessary. I figure I only need two temperature probes (spaced out in the loop) and I figure inline is best. Did I get that right? I know I need a flow sensor to make sure the PC will shut down via the Aquaero in case of a massive failure. But I don't know which one to get, there are three different ranges. Do I need a pressure sensor as well? Do I need a fill meter as well? Also, what size LEDs will fit into all these parts? Do I need any special Aquacomputer wires to make the system work (besides fan extensions)? Anything I might have missed? I should be able to figure out the mounting parts to order and the faceplates but I really need help on the other stuff.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> OK, after going threw everything I have no idea the differences here, if all of these types of things are even needed, or which of these of a particular type is the one to get. My comprehensive PC parts list (also in my signature drop down rig link below):
> 
> 
> 
> 1.
> 
> 
> 2.
> 
> 
> 3.
> 
> 
> 4.
> 
> 
> 5.
> 
> 
> 6.
> 
> 
> 7.
> 
> 
> 8.
> 
> 
> 9.
> 
> 
> 10.
> 
> 
> 11.
> 
> 
> Here are maybe things I need but I'm not sure. I am doing custom cables, so I see possibly some of these are not needed, but again not sure which I should buy or not:
> 
> 12.
> 
> 
> 13.
> 
> 
> 14.
> 
> 
> 15.
> 
> 
> 16.
> 
> 
> 17.
> 
> 
> And finally, here are things I know I need (the order list so far):
> 
> 18.
> 
> 
> 19.
> 
> 
> 20.
> 
> 
> 21.
> 
> 
> 22.
> 
> 
> 23.
> 
> 
> 24.
> 
> 
> 25.
> 
> 
> 26.
> 
> 
> 27.
> 
> 
> 28.
> 
> 
> Anything I should double up on quantity? Anything I should add or delete from the list, say if one of my main products comes with something already (like cables on the fan controller or equalization fittings on the reservoir), and I need some more info on the maybes and the I have no clue lists.
> 
> I would like to get a definitive list to order up ready. Thanks for any help in advance.
> 
> EDIT: Those Dual G-1/4 threads on the fill port look mighty close together, I may have issues with that I think.
> 
> My biggest issues are which exact flow meter should I get, if a pressure meter is useful to me, and if a fill level meter is useful to me. And which ones those should I get if I get them.


you only need one flow meter, you only need one pressure sensor, you don't need the heat sink unless you plan to push it to the extreme limits, The aquaero comes with the USB cable, you only need (not even really) one equalizer membrane, you only need one inline temp sensor. I would be surprised if the reservoir doesn't come with it's own mounting accessories, but as it shows "recommended accessories" i'm not sure.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I get what a flow meter does, it measures and more importantly makes sure the flow actually is flowing. But WHY do I need a pressure sensor? What does measuring the pressure do for me exactly? On the heatsink, I kinda knew that, but I love red so much. I may skip it as its money I could spend elsewhere. I'll skip the equalizer membranes then, if they don't really clearly do anything for my loop. The Res mount is for the top, a nicer looking one more for light support, the one metal mount that really supports it comes with it for the bottom I think.

Given that, I still don't know which flow or pressure sensor to get, they come in 3 ranges each. This is why I wish AC would just come out with a super deluxe all in one package that would take the guesswork and research out of it all. I'm sure they know which range works best for most setups.


----------



## skupples

you don't _*need*_ the pressure sensor by any means.

Let's see... The flow sensors...



has no moving parts, uses sensors to tell you what your flow is. The three variants are based off of your assumed flow rate. 100LPM 200LPM 400LPM.

The other two units are mechanical, and are known to be a bit noisy when not properly decoupled.


----------



## VSG

They aren't really noisy, I have mine attached via hard fittings and it definitely is not as noisy as the one linked in here earlier.


----------



## IT Diva

I did a little tweaking on my circuit to run the PWM D5's from the Aquaero 6. . . . . . Actually, I redesigned it . . .









It's even better than the original, now that I know more from having built the first one.

I went from a voltage follower circuit to an inverting Schmitt Trigger using a 555 chip, and a common NPN transistor to correct for the inversion.

The pulse shape is now a normal square, and the amplitude is right at 5V at the D5 PWM pin.

I set min power to 20% and max at 78% which gives me ~800 RPM to ~4500 RPM using the slider from 1% to 99%.

In the scope pics, the top green trace is the A6 output, and the lower yellow trace is my circuit's output going to the two D5's PWM pins.

Tomorrow, I'll see if I can't design a PCB for it, which should make it a lot easier to build a 4 channel one. . . . One for each pair of pumps and a spare.

I'll also see if I can't create a PCB for a single channel, minimum parts count version.

Darlene





And the test D5 setup at minimum speed:


----------



## Neo Zuko

Great, how am I supposed to know my assumed rate before I order?????????!!!!!!!!!


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys with PWM D5's . . . . .
> 
> Would you be interested in me doing a little single, (or optionally dual) channel DIY buffer board project to be able to run your D5, or dual D5 pump setup with your A6 . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It would all done with parts you can get easily from RadioShack for a few dollars so you can do it yourself with minimal soldering skills and tools?
> 
> It would be able to either have the 5V voltage regulator onboard so it could be powered from the A6 when it's plugged into a fan channel, or optionally, just get its 5V supply from a molex so you have less parts to put together, but another wire to have to connect
> 
> I'll use a 4 pin fan extension cable to be able to make it easy to put in the pump control line in a modular fashion.
> 
> It should be about half the size of the one I built, maybe slightly less, if you have the onboard 5V regulator setup, and smaller if you want to use a molex.
> 
> Either way it would be small enough to stick it behind the A6 in the same bay.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> The original one I made works with all 4 A6 channels and uses a quad op-amp.
> 
> A single or dual channel version would only need an 8pin IC with wiring made a buttload easier.


I would definitely be interested! I currently run my single D5 off of my motherboard CPU header since I somehow missed the memo about the incompatibility with the two.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys with PWM D5's . . . . .
> 
> Would you be interested in me doing a little single, (or optionally dual) channel DIY buffer board project to be able to run your D5, or dual D5 pump setup with your A6 . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It would all done with parts you can get easily from RadioShack for a few dollars so you can do it yourself with minimal soldering skills and tools?
> 
> It would be able to either have the 5V voltage regulator onboard so it could be powered from the A6 when it's plugged into a fan channel, or optionally, just get its 5V supply from a molex so you have less parts to put together, but another wire to have to connect
> 
> I'll use a 4 pin fan extension cable to be able to make it easy to put in the pump control line in a modular fashion.
> 
> It should be about half the size of the one I built, maybe slightly less, if you have the onboard 5V regulator setup, and smaller if you want to use a molex.
> 
> Either way it would be small enough to stick it behind the A6 in the same bay.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> The original one I made works with all 4 A6 channels and uses a quad op-amp.
> 
> A single or dual channel version would only need an 8pin IC with wiring made a buttload easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would definitely be interested! I currently run my single D5 off of my motherboard CPU header since I somehow missed the memo about the incompatibility with the two.
Click to expand...

Here's the prototype of the single channel add-on PCB to let the Aquaero 6 run PWM D5 pumps.

Works just perfectly with a dual D5 setup as well as a single one.

Darlene


----------



## LCRava

I replaced the flow meter and the new one is working properly.









Now for some assistance.









What is the proper way of connecting 3 Aquacomputer D5 pumps to the Aquaero 6 via aquabus? I had 2 pumps connected to the "high" output and the Aquaero with a "Y" adapter and the Aquasuite recognizes and control them properly. When I added a second "Y" adapter and connect the 3 pumps to the "high" output none of the pumps are recognized (all adapters are from Aquacomputer and I updated each pump's firmware individually and assigned them different names/adresses before connecting them via aquabus).

I need to be able to control all 3 pumps via the Aquaero/Aquasuite. When I had 2 pumps via aquabus and 1 via USB I was not able to properly configure a temperature curve profile as only the Aquabus connected pumps were part of it (I had to manually change the power to the pump connected via USB).

All 3 pumps are being powered with a molex connector (direct from PSU).

Thanks for the help.


----------



## skupples

@IT Diva

Does the AQ6 put out a strong enough signal to pulse three pumps from the same head? Heavily debating adding a third pump... Mostly so I can cut down on some noise.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> @IT Diva
> 
> Does the AQ6 *put out a strong enough signal* to pulse three pumps from the same head? Heavily debating adding a third pump... Mostly so I can cut down on some noise.


This isn't really the right way to look at how the PWM standard is supposed to be implemented . . . .

Thinking of it in this way, . . "putting out a signal" . . . . . Is why it doesn't work with the D5s.

According to standard, the Host (controller) only has to make a connection to ground for the PWM pin at the prescribed frequency for varying percentages of the derived period.

The Intel standard is 25KHz, which means for anything above 0%, the PWM pin is electrically connected to ground once every 40 microseconds for some amount of that 40uS.

If the connection is for 10 microseconds, then that would be 75% duty cycle. . . . . Duty cycle % = 100 - [(10/40) * 100]

The standard requires that the device to be controlled will provide circuitry that normally holds its PWM pin at 5V, so that when the host connects its PWM pin to ground, a pulse train is then created.

This was the issue with the D5, it doesn't hold its PWM pin at 5V.

It's part of the way the D5 runs at 60% with no PWM connection. . . . . . .

But it means that to run the PWM D5, . . you need to have an active controller, (which is opposite to the way the standard prescribes) that actually does put out a signal, as compared to a passive controller that just has to make the PWM pin connection to ground.

I have a pair of dual 35X pump setups here, and I'll see how they work, all 4 pumps from one channel after, . . . I've had some coffee and made some adapter cables.

I don't see a reason it shouldn't work just fine.

That the 35X's run at max with no PWM connection, and work natively with the AQ6, shows that they implement the PWM standard adequately, and should therefore be able to be daisy chained in reasonable numbers, as long as they don't cumulatively exceed the AQ6's capability to sink the 5V to ground to create the pulse train.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Thx D!


----------



## IT Diva

I did some testing with the 35X pumps . . . . .

The results are about what I was expecting, so here's what I found.

The first test was with 2 dual 35X pump setups running from the 1 Aquaero channel. . . . that's 4 pumps altogether.



The scope shows that instead of 0 volts, (or very close to it) during the "off" portion of the pulse time, there's about 0.75V during the off time.

The RPM reading in Aquasuite was 1728 with all 4 pumps connected.

*The more the off time voltage is above 0V, the more it effectively adds to the pulse width.*

(remember that, it'll be important later)

Here you can see the off time level above the zero grid:



Next test was with one pair of pumps disconnected, (no change to the PWM settings) so just 2 pumps being controlled.

In this test, the off time voltage was closer to zero, and the RPM reading was down considerably to 1232. . . . a ~500 rpm drop from the effect of what the pump sees as a shorter pulse.

See what I mean about the "off time" voltage effectively adding to the pulse width to "trick" the pumps into running faster.



*Now I did find that even with 4 pumps connected, there was enough range of settings in Aquasuite to shift the min and max power settings so that the controls slider could run from ~1200 rpm to a max of ~4500 rpm, so there's no reason that you couldn't run a pair of dual 35X's or a triple 35X setup directly from the Aquaero 6.*

I'm sure that's good news to all those who PM'd me about things like that.

I also tried running both the 4 pump configuration and the 2 pump only setup with my little active output adapter prototype.

This could well be the answer for running large numbers of fans, especially the Corsair fans.

Just as I showed the off time voltage goes up above 0V as the number of connected devices increases, there's a point at which the off time voltage will be too high for even the lowest pulse width to effect much control to run them below near max speed.

The answer is to have the controller be able to sink a greater amount of current to ground, so the off time voltage doesn't go up and out of control range.

Here's the scope with my prototype connected to the AQ6, and all 4 pumps connected to it:

Notice that the AQ6 off time output level now sits almost right at the zero grid, and the off time output level of my prototype, (lower trace) is just barely above.

The rpm reading was 1280.



I also tried my prototype with just 2 pumps connected, and the scope was visually identical. There is almost no rise in the off time voltage as the load increases.

The rpm with just the 2 pumps connected was 1240, a lot different that the 500 rpm difference from the AQ6 alone.

Now the reason these findings are of value, is that it looks like there's a solution to being unable to run D5 pumps and a large number of fans, especially perhaps Corsairs, from the AQ6.

Hopefully, AC will come out with their own version of my active output adapter, which would help them sell a bunch more AQ6's

Darlene


----------



## seross69

From what I have read from Shoggy they think they are doing it right.. so I don't hope for this...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> From what I have read from Shoggy they think they are doing it right.. so I don't hope for this...


I think you're missing the point . . . .

I agree that they are doing it right, as far as following the standard.

The issue is that not everyone else does.

Being able to get a little add-on adapter to use the A6 with some other popular items, pumps and fans, that don't do follow the standard so well, is just a way to make it more useful., not an inference that it isn't done right.

It is a thought though . . . . that having it natively able to control the PWM D5 might have a negative effect on sales of their own software controlled D5 Vario, so that may have been a deliberate move.

I'm just happy that I have the talent to be able to make the A6 control the pumps I most prefer to use.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Thanks D!

sigh, i'm being told by people in the picture gallery that running 3 PWM DDC's is a bad idea. I don't think they understand that the point of doing so is to reduce the usage on each pump.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Thanks D!
> 
> sigh, i'm being told by people in the picture gallery that running 3 PWM DDC's is a bad idea. I don't think they understand that the point of doing so is to reduce the usage on each pump.


Here's a review with the XSPC triple included:

It has about a 25% increase in flow rate from the duals, with a little more noise.

Tests were done with ddc pumps, but not 35X's, so all were at full speed.

http://www.overclock.net/t/821693/review-roundup-bay-reservoirs-laing-tops

It's the fact that you have the 35X's, which being PWM have the ability to run much slower than anything else, giving you the flow capability you need, at easily attainable lower / quieter pump speeds, that make it a practical plan for you, as long as you have enough room.

The triple on my tech bench results has me convinced of the capability . . . .

4 GPU blocks
2 RAM blocks
CPU block
Chipset & VRM blocks
Lots of 90's

All on a single loop with two SR 1 420 rads, and I get a measured 1GPM at ~3400rpm

The only additional thing I's like to see would be an inlet port above the impeller like you see on most dual tops.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Those results are actually better than I expected. I was thinking there would be harsher deminnishing returns. The lack of top port is a PITA.. Wonder if the EK res caps have the same threads as the BP units... Will have to investigate after work.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Thanks again Shoggy for helping me.


----------



## Roikyou

So I ended up hooking up my five 3 pin fans to the 3rd fan control module using a 3 to 9 by 3 pin splitter, those 5 work with no issues. Although, during the Aquaero boot up, the fans run at 0 till it gets power from Aquaero. I would guess if they were pwm, during boot, they would run full for two second boot, then what the minimum is set to.


----------



## SinatraFan

is the A6 capable of monitoring 2 flow meters at the same time?


----------



## kpoeticg

More than 2 depending what you buy. It can monitor 2 regular (non-Aquabus/USB) flowmeters, you have to sacrifice a fan header for the 2nd though. Header 1 i think. Or you can get the USB/Aquabus versions and connect more. Not sure what the limit is for Aquabus devices


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> More than 2 depending what you buy. It can monitor 2 regular (non-Aquabus/USB) flowmeters, you have to sacrifice a fan header for the 2nd though. Header 1 i think. Or you can get the USB/Aquabus versions and connect more. Not sure what the limit is for Aquabus devices


I've got two of these... they use 3 pin fan headers. how should I hook them up?


----------



## kpoeticg

Pretty sure you can connect one to the flowmeter header and the other to fan header 1. Not sure what the calibration would be for those. You might need to use some Google-Fu. Definitely will need to calibrate them


----------



## OIOKronikler

I just got mine Aquaero 6 xt delivered. I read the manual and by the look of things I can only connect one pump to the high speed aquabus port low speed port will not take a aquabus controoled pump. I have two of these aquacomputer d5 aquabus pumps that will be used. How would I go about solving this issue. Will one poweradjust 2 be enough for this set up, which one standard/ultra series. Also this set up will have 32 120mm fans for my rads. Thanks.


----------



## dpoverlord

Do they have a cheap solution for air setups? I just want a simple sub $150 controller like my digidoc 5 that died after 14 years. I like being able to see the controller in the front of the case, but this is not essential if its being controlled in windows. However, I like to have the ability to turn them off and on at will and not being subject to windows.


----------



## skupples

You may be able to get the 5 series for around that price.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coronati Oculis*
> 
> I just got mine Aquaero 6 xt delivered. I read the manual and by the look of things I can only connect one pump to the high speed aquabus port low speed port will not take a aquabus controoled pump. I have two of these aquacomputer d5 aquabus pumps that will be used. How would I go about solving this issue. Will one poweradjust 2 be enough for this set up, which one standard/ultra series. Also this set up will have 32 120mm fans for my rads. Thanks.


You can connect 4 D5 pumps to the high speed aquabus just need to make or buy the splitter cables.


----------



## dpoverlord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You may be able to get the 5 series for around that price.


What specific one would you recommend?


----------



## VSG

The LT, that does not come with a display and you can just hide it inside the case anywhere. There are mounting accessories available for it as well.


----------



## dpoverlord

can you control it with software at all?


----------



## VSG

It is the exact same PCB on all Aquaero 5 models, the LT does not come with a display and thus is cheaper.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpoverlord*
> 
> can you control it with software at all?


The Aquaero has it's own software onboard, and on the regular models you can adjust the settings with the screen, or by remote, or via Aquasuite in Windows. In the case of the Aquaero 5 LT, Aquasuite is the only option.


----------



## IT Diva

PCB's ready to assemble . . .

Two variations, with some build options on each, of the PCBs for my active adapter circuit.

The lower board allows building up to 4 channels, each with their own 12V to 5V voltage regulation using separate or a common 12V source.

The board could be cut to use only as many channels as needed.

The upper board layout allows up to 3 channels, but has the option to use a single 12V to 5V regulator for all the channels.

Hopefully, I'll have at least one assembled and ready for testing on the weekend . . . .









Darlene


----------



## VSG

I for one will be interested in a tutorial if it helps control Corsair PWM fans.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I for one will be interested in a tutorial if it helps control Corsair PWM fans.


Have you got a bunch of them . . . .

Maybe you could be the Corsair fan "tester" if I send one to you.

Darlene


----------



## chimaychanga

Hello Everyone

Ive got the Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE pump. It has a 4 pin PWM connector with 2 cables.
Which connector on the Aquaero should i use to control my pump ??


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Hello Everyone
> 
> Ive got the Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE pump. It has a 4 pin PWM connector with 2 cables.
> *Which connector on the Aquaero should i use to control my pump ??*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


None of them . . . . . . .









You haven't exactly been keeping up have you . . . .









While the 35X, which is also a PWM pump works fine with the AQ6, . . . . .

The PWM version of the D5 does not.

It appears that the D5's implementation of PWM does not exactly follow the Intel standard with regard to pull-up, and the AQ6 does, so that's why the AQ6 will not control a PWM D5, . . . . at least natively.

I like the PWM D5 a lot, so I've been working on a solution to be able to control my 3, dual D5 setups with one of my AQ6's.

If you start reading a few pages back;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1730#post_21809452

You can follow from the 1st prototype to the new improved design:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1750#post_21834075

That's the design that the PCB's in the above pic are for. (post #1783)

I also want to go back and revisit this little ghetto work-around with some different values to see if it can't be at least an acceptable minimum workaround for the PWM D5 . . . . . .

As it is easy enough for most DIY'ers to do:

Bare minimum +5V source and pull-up resistor:



Stay tuned and don't throw the PWM D5 away just yet,

Darlene


----------



## CHLODZENIEnet

AquaComputer always had cool but rather expensive stuff


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you got a bunch of them . . . .
> 
> Maybe you could be the Corsair fan "tester" if I send one to you.
> 
> Darlene


I have about 18 of them (both QE and PE editions). So far, I have tried out multiple splitters (Swiftech's 8-way, Akasa 5-way, Modmytoyz's 8-way) and so far the best I have gotten is reasonable control over 6 fans per channel on the AQ6 and even less so on motherboard CPU headers and other fan controllers (I tried out an old Zalman MFC-3 as well).

I will be glad to test out anything as long as you tell me what to do


----------



## Roikyou

Interesting there is such a difference in the pwm controller from the D5 to the mcp35x/ddc. I would have thought the technology would have been the same or close to the same for those two pumps. Are we talking issues with all makers of the D5's or specific brands? (trying to wrap my head around it)


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> None of them . . . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You haven't exactly been keeping up have you . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the 35X, which is also a PWM pump works fine with the AQ6, . . . . .
> 
> The PWM version of the D5 does not.
> 
> It appears that the D5's implementation of PWM does not exactly follow the Intel standard with regard to pull-up, and the AQ6 does, so that's why the AQ6 will not control a PWM D5, . . . . at least natively.
> 
> I like the PWM D5 a lot, so I've been working on a solution to be able to control my 3, dual D5 setups with one of my AQ6's.
> 
> If you start reading a few pages back;
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1730#post_21809452
> 
> You can follow from the 1st prototype to the new improved design:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1750#post_21834075
> 
> That's the design that the PCB's in the above pic are for. (post #1783)
> 
> I also want to go back and revisit this little ghetto work-around with some different values to see if it can't be at least an acceptable minimum workaround for the PWM D5 . . . . . .
> 
> As it is easy enough for most DIY'ers to do:
> 
> Bare minimum +5V source and pull-up resistor:
> 
> 
> 
> Stay tuned and don't throw the PWM D5 away just yet,
> 
> Darlene


Hello Darlene

First of all.. Id like to thank you for your guidance on how to separate the heat sinks from each other on the R4BE. I followed your advice and did it successfully









Now.. Regarding my question of the D5 PWM pump question, I must admit I haven't been active here in this thread at all, even though Ive had the A6 since it came out








and Ive just recently begun my water cooling adventure due to being very busy at school, work, and etc.
Think I will start reading the hole thread from the beginning









I kinda wish that I have gone with AquaComputer D5 pump instead.. But its good to see that you are working on this issue








Keep me/us posted









EDIT:
btw.. why is the A6 showing a very unsteady RPM read off my fans ?
I have 9 Noiseblocker B12-2 connected on 2 modmytoys pcb's that connects to the A6


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> None of them . . . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You haven't exactly been keeping up have you . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the 35X, which is also a PWM pump works fine with the AQ6, . . . . .
> 
> The PWM version of the D5 does not.
> 
> It appears that the D5's implementation of PWM does not exactly follow the Intel standard with regard to pull-up, and the AQ6 does, so that's why the AQ6 will not control a PWM D5, . . . . at least natively.
> 
> I like the PWM D5 a lot, so I've been working on a solution to be able to control my 3, dual D5 setups with one of my AQ6's.
> 
> If you start reading a few pages back;
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1730#post_21809452
> 
> You can follow from the 1st prototype to the new improved design:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1750#post_21834075
> 
> That's the design that the PCB's in the above pic are for. (post #1783)
> 
> I also want to go back and revisit this little ghetto work-around with some different values to see if it can't be at least an acceptable minimum workaround for the PWM D5 . . . . . .
> 
> As it is easy enough for most DIY'ers to do:
> 
> Bare minimum +5V source and pull-up resistor:
> 
> 
> 
> Stay tuned and don't throw the PWM D5 away just yet,
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think you're missing the point . . . .
> 
> I agree that they are doing it right, as far as following the standard.
> 
> The issue is that not everyone else does.
> 
> Being able to get a little add-on adapter to use the A6 with some other popular items, pumps and fans, that don't do follow the standard so well, is just a way to make it more useful., not an inference that it isn't done right.
> 
> It is a thought though . . . . that having it natively able to control the PWM D5 might have a negative effect on sales of their own software controlled D5 Vario, so that may have been a deliberate move.
> 
> I'm just happy that I have the talent to be able to make the A6 control the pumps I most prefer to use.
> 
> Darlene


as i understand aq6

sorry i am a bit lost here ,as i read pwm d5 can not be controlled by aq6 .Does that include their usb d5?


----------



## IT Diva

"as i understand aq6

sorry i am a bit lost here ,as i read pwm d5 can not be controlled by aq6 .Does that include their usb d5?"

You're confusing two very different versions of the D5 pump.

The PWM version is available from FCPU and PPC's, and comes directly from the manufacturer, Laing.

That's the one that the A6 will not control natively.

Swiftech who is the Laing distributor, and one of the big retailers of the Laing pumps for water cooling, doesn't even handle the PWM version of the D5, so it's not as universally available as the other D5 versions

The D5 that Aquacomputer sells is NOT a PWM pump.

It is essentially a D5 Vario, with the manually adjustable speed potentiometer replaced with a digital potentiometer that is controlled electronically by a host PC when connected via the USB cable to a PC running Aquasuite software.

That D5 works just fine with the A6.

Electronically, the workaround to get the PWM D5 to work with the A6 is pretty simple.

How willing Shoggy and AC are to embrace anything that lets the A6 control the PWM D5, has yet to be seen.

Darlene


----------



## Roikyou

Curious what the results would be if you used the Swiftech MCP655-PWM if you really wanted a D5 pump and how Aquaero would work with that one or has anyone tested that one? I just noticed the Aquacomputer D5 is a basic vario pump, had that stuck in my head they're a pwm also...


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> "as i understand aq6
> 
> sorry i am a bit lost here ,as i read pwm d5 can not be controlled by aq6 .Does that include their usb d5?"
> 
> You're confusing two very different versions of the D5 pump.
> 
> The PWM version is available from FCPU and PPC's, and comes directly from the manufacturer, Laing.
> 
> That's the one that the A6 will not control natively.
> 
> Swiftech who is the Laing distributor, and one of the big retailers of the Laing pumps for water cooling, doesn't even handle the PWM version of the D5, so it's not as universally available as the other D5 versions
> 
> The D5 that Aquacomputer sells is NOT a PWM pump.
> 
> It is essentially a D5 Vario, with the manually adjustable speed potentiometer replaced with a digital potentiometer that is controlled electronically by a host PC when connected via the USB cable to a PC running Aquasuite software.
> 
> That D5 works just fine with the A6.
> 
> Electronically, the workaround to get the PWM D5 to work with the A6 is pretty simple.
> 
> How willing Shoggy and AC are to embrace anything that lets the A6 control the PWM D5, has yet to be seen.
> 
> Darlene


ok i got it now


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> EDIT:btw.. why is the A6 showing a very unsteady RPM read off my fans ?
> I have 9 Noiseblocker B12-2 connected on 2 modmytoys pcb's that connects to the A6


I am guessing you are talking about one of these? The most likely case is that all ports are reporting RPM data. There are a few solutions: pop out the 3rd pin (RPM line) off of all connectors except for one, or manually cut off the third pin off of all but one of the ports. This will make it so that just one fan's RPM data is being reported and since they're all identical they should all be around the same RPM.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> I am guessing you are talking about one of these? The most likely case is that all ports are reporting RPM data. There are a few solutions: pop out the 3rd pin (RPM line) off of all connectors except for one, or manually cut off the third pin off of all but one of the ports. This will make it so that just one fan's RPM data is being reported and since they're all identical they should all be around the same RPM.


You are absolutely right.. I unplugged all the fans from the PCB splitter except one and now its showing a solid RPM. Thanks








So the black cable should be the "RPM line" ?


----------



## chimaychanga

It wasnt the black but the white one..

Do I really need to butcher 7 of the extension cables ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> You are absolutely right.. I unplugged all the fans from the PCB splitter except one and now its showing a solid RPM. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the black cable should be the "RPM line" ?


No I am just about sure it is the red wire. on these if I remember black is ground, white is +12 and red is RPM signal...


----------



## kpoeticg

Usually fan connectors have at least a "1" on the first pin. That would be ground. I have 3 of those at home, but i'm not there right now. Whichever wire has a 1 on the connector, the RPM is the opposite side

Edit: Just saw your next post. Yeah, it's definitely the white

You actually could go the opposite way and only mod one of the RPM cables. Take the RPM signal from ONE of the fans and plug that into the extension wire instead of the 3rd pin from the PCB

The 3rd pin on the PCB is useless if it routes the rpm wire from every fan. So you can plug all your fans in regular, except one of em, and just send that signal into the 3Pin connector on the Aquaero


----------



## chimaychanga

But i have it connected like that now with one cable intact and the other with the white pin out and the RPM is steady?


----------



## SeeThruHead

So quick question to those who know. Can I remove the LCD from the aq6 and attach it to my aq5?


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah you can. The LCD's are the same


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> But i have it connected like that now with one cable intact and the other with the white pin out and the RPM is steady


I may be wrong as my fans are not in my hands and I was going my memory and we all know what that is!!! it is the thing between our ears we forget with but I have attached a pinout that is correct don't go by colors go by position on the connector.



this picture is a little confusing but 1 and 2 are the power and 3 is the tach. That is with the ears facing down.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Usually fan connectors have at least a "1" on the first pin. That would be ground. I have 3 of those at home, but i'm not there right now. Whichever wire has a 1 on the connector, the RPM is the opposite side
> 
> Edit: Just saw your next post. Yeah, it's definitely the white
> 
> You actually could go the opposite way and only mod one of the RPM cables. Take the RPM signal from ONE of the fans and plug that into the extension wire instead of the 3rd pin from the PCB
> 
> The 3rd pin on the PCB is useless if it routes the rpm wire from every fan. So you can plug all your fans in regular, except one of em, and just send that signal into the 3Pin connector on the Aquaero


The only problem is that ive already made the cable management for all the fans and they aren't in reach behind the radiator








So i guess i will have to cut them on the PCB..


----------



## kpoeticg

1. Get a 3Pin Y Splitter

2. Get an extra 3Pin fan connector

3. Pick any one of the fans plugged into the PCB and pull the RPM wire out of the connector

4. Pull the "RPM" wire out of the connector that the PCB PLUG INTO

5. Take that RPM wire from the one fan and put it into it's own fan connector

6. Plug the PCB AND the fan connector with the SINGLE RPM WIRE into a Y Splitter

7. Plug that Y Splitter into your Aquaero

8. Enjoy!!!

This really shouldn't affect your cable routing as all of the modding is being done at the splitter pcb and you're just adding a Y Cable


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 1. Get a 3Pin Y Splitter
> 2. Get an extra 3Pin fan connector
> 3. Pick any one of the fans plugged into the PCB and pull the RPM wire out of the connector
> 4. Pull the "RPM" wire out of the connector that the PCB PLUG INTO
> 5. Take that RPM wire from the one fan and put it into it's own fan connector
> 6. Plug the PCB AND the fan connector with the SINGLE RPM WIRE into a Y Splitter
> 7. Plug that Y Splitter into your Aquaero
> 8. Enjoy!!!
> 
> This really shouldn't affect your cable routing as all of the modding is being done at the splitter pcb and you're just adding a Y Cable


Woaw.. this is confusing







think ill just cut the white wires








I haven't got a Y splitter and really dont want any more cables


----------



## kpoeticg

It's really not confusing if you understand what i'm trying to explain. I'm not always the best at explaining though. You really don't need the Y Splitter, just need to replace a single wire. Could also cut traces on the PCB if you'd rather not mess up your wires. A fan splitter PCB has no possible reason to have more than 1 active rpm signal.

You might be better off just buying the NZXT fan hub. It's the same thing except only has 1 active rpm signal

Even a 3Pin extender would do the trick. Hold on, lemme see if i can make a crappy diagram for you

Edit:

I'm a graphic designer by trade, so diagrams like this are really easy for me











Once you can allow yourself to see past the incredible artistic ability, you just need a 3Pin extender cable and to reroute one wire from one fan. You're choosing to mod 7 connectors when you could just mod one. Where i re-routed that wire, you'd just pull it out of the connector at that header and plug it into the extender/connector


----------



## chimaychanga

lawl.. think i get it now

let me just put your art up against my case for a moment









EDIT:
but it will still ruin my nice cable management this way









Damn Daniel @ Singularity Computers.. why did he made me buy these splitters


----------



## kpoeticg

It would affect your cable management a little. But one wire is kinda minor. You should be able to hide it

And thank you for appreciating the art. Very few people have "The Eye". You obviously do


----------



## chimaychanga

Your right.. its not a big mod but i almost cant get my hand in between the rads to change the setup


----------



## dpoverlord

I went ahead and got a NZXT Grid 10 for $15 no more doc :-(


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> You might be better off just buying the NZXT fan hub. It's the same thing except only has 1 active rpm signal


Not true, unless there has been a new revision, I bought two around September of last year and all 10 ports report RPM. I basically did what a fellow OCN member did (can't remember who it was), I manually cut off the third pin off of all but one. Before hand I just popped out the third pin off of all fans but one, but it looked so ugly.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpoverlord*
> 
> I went ahead and got a NZXT Grid 10 for $15 no more doc :-(


Haha, yeah the price is a little high but its exactly what I wanted a small package (I was actually surprised how small it was) with a 3-pin output and more than 6 inputs, not a 4-pin output or something else like on the MMT PCB splittiers. So I was more than willing to pay for it.


----------



## dpoverlord

Yeah I did not even know about it! I called www.frozencpu.com the guy told me about it and I was like WALLLAH!!! If you think about it, I have my fans on 24x7 for probably the last 14 years. If I have been doing this why do I need to monitor the fans really? I dont plan on fluctuating them so might as well keep them on...


----------



## gdubc

Some new goodies at *Performance-PCs*. I just ordered one a few days back from aquatuning as well with the blocks for a bit cheaper than frozen or performance. Anyhow, get em while they're hot, er I mean in stock!


----------



## kpoeticg

Got mine from AT also =)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Got mine from AT also =)


I ordered a pair for my A6's, and also ordered the passive heatsinks made for the 5 series . . . .

Since the waterblock for the 5 series fits the new cooling plate for the 6's, . . . . it stands to reason that the passive heatsink for the 5's would also fit, with a little TIM, it should maximize the cooling capability without having to go to the water option.

We'll see in a week or so when it gets here.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

I mostly got it because i like the red and i'm gonna be splitting the screen from the pcb with that mod we talked about a while back. So my PCB will be on display near a window of my chassis. So i got it mostly for aesthetics. I'm thinking of ordering the block for it, but haven't yet.

On the topic of splitting the PCB though, I haven't ordered the 2 connectors and ribbon cable yet because the connectors are like 6 bux a piece and the ribbon cable's 25 bux. Any chance that was just the first thing you came across, or do you think there's a more affordable way to do it?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I ordered a pair for my A6's, and also ordered the passive heatsinks made for the 5 series . . . .
> 
> Since the waterblock for the 5 series fits the new cooling plate for the 6's, . . . . it stands to reason that the passive heatsink for the 5's would also fit, with a little TIM, it should maximize the cooling capability without having to go to the water option.
> 
> We'll see in a week or so when it gets here.
> 
> Darlene


putting a fans under and above wil also pull\push the heat away. I dont need it but i call it plan B.


----------



## gdubc

The blocks were pretty cheap from aquatuning, so I saw no reason not to get them really. If they don't work out well when the time comes then it's not a lot of $$ lost. I am putting 5lts in mine and my son's pcs and the aquaero 6 for my lady's setup. I just wish they offered the 6 heatsink in other colors also, but no biggie. I like the red also but an orange one would work perfect for me!


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The blocks were pretty cheap from aquatuning, so I saw no reason not to get them really. If they don't work out well when the time comes then it's not a lot of $$ lost. I am putting 5lts in mine and my son's pcs and the aquaero 6 for my lady's setup. I just wish they offered the 6 heatsink in other colors also, but no biggie. I like the red also but an orange one would work perfect for me!


About the color of the heatsink. I mention this to Scott and he got a answer that it is posible.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Got a couple more questions for the knowledgeable people in this thread. I'm going to be running 3 swiftech 8 way splitters. I could conceivably rewire them so that they use only a 4pin cable to the aquaero6 headers right? There's more than enough power in each channel isn't there? Also another electrical question. I'm going to be running several watercooling devices that require 12v power. They are usually terminated with 4 pin molex (using only 2 wires.) The devices are an aquaero 6, 2 mcp35x, 1 aquacomputer d5, 3 swiftech pwm splitters (if I dont connect them directly to the aquaero.) I would like to reterminate the power leads to something like a 2 pin connector.

I would then connect them all to something like this:

or this:


Which would be directly connected to my psu.

Would I run into problems doing this? Maybe melt the power distrobution pcb by overloading it? Can regular 2 pin connectors (like those used for leds) handle enough current for a whole aquaero or should I give that a direct connection to the psu. What about the pumps?


----------



## kpoeticg

Those are both LED distribution PCB's. Don't use them. ESPECIALLY the 2nd one. I know for a fact it has resistors that are meant for ~3V led's on the headers.

Get Molex splitters if you wanna split molex's.

Also, connect your PWM devices to the PSU. Don't mod the 4Pins. Defeat's half the purpose of PWM

Edit: Remember, 4Pin Molex connectors have 12V | Ground | Ground | 5V. As well as fatter pins and usually thicker wires to handle higher amps. If you're gonna mod them, you need to keep all these things in mind and make sure your not causing problems for yourself. You need to know for sure that for example, you only need the 12V & it's Ground. Also if you're modding to thinner pins and wires, you need to know that it's not for something that's gonna draw alot of power. Fans are fine to do this with, but i wouldn't recommend it for Pumps and Aquaero's. The manufacturers would just power it from a fan header if it was ok to do that


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> About the color of the heatsink. I mention this to Scott and he got a answer that it is posible.


What better color could it possibly be? It already blends into the most magnificent surroundings.









I'm certain they'll do a black or a natural aluminum, but they made the right decision going with ROG RED out of the gate.

If you say ROG-RED nine times it becomes very spooky.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6239_zps50b0239e.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6243_zpse6a130d5.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6246_zpsb7d10497.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6145_zps92e9d2a4.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6089_zps9d87831a.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

The red suits my build perfectly too. Not everybody wants red in their rig though. I just feel like i got lucky this time lol


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> What better color could it possibly be? It already blends into the most beautiful surroundings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm certain they'll do a black or a natural aluminum, but they made the right decision going with ROG RED out of the gate.
> 
> If you say ROG-RED nine times it gets very spooky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6239_zps50b0239e.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6243_zpse6a130d5.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6246_zpsb7d10497.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6145_zps92e9d2a4.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6089_zps9d87831a.jpg.html[/quo
> 
> 
> te]
> 
> I like theROG Theme


----------



## MeanBruce

Yikes, I cannot remove the four Aquaero 6 distal/posterior bracket frame screws with any amount of safe pressure or force, the interior rim seems to be rounded instead of 6-sided hexagonal like it should be, could break the entire Aquaero 6 down to achieve side angle access with adjustable small electronic pliers or vise grips but not going to risk it, the A6 is just too darn important.

I hope they're not Torx, they don't look like Torx.

I'll order a set of those Wera hex keys from Amazon, noticed the replacement 100mm length screws that AquaComputer supplies with this heatsink are the same driver size as the front panel screws. I'll just have to wait and install this outstanding heatsink on Monday.









"Heatsink" should become one word in everyday accepted diction and the Human Vernacular, I vote toward the affirmative.

It's a hunka hunka burnin' love, no it's a hunk of aluminum.









Performance PCs.com comes thru again with the lowest price in the US $17.95, thank you Jim.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40276


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Those are both LED distribution PCB's. Don't use them. ESPECIALLY the 2nd one. I know for a fact it has resistors that are meant for ~3V led's on the headers.
> 
> Get Molex splitters if you wanna split molex's.
> 
> Also, connect your PWM devices to the PSU. Don't mod the 4Pins. Defeat's half the purpose of PWM
> 
> Edit: Remember, 4Pin Molex connectors have 12V | Ground | Ground | 5V. As well as fatter pins and usually thicker wires to handle higher amps. If you're gonna mod them, you need to keep all these things in mind and make sure your not causing problems for yourself. You need to know for sure that for example, you only need the 12V & it's Ground. Also if you're modding to thinner pins and wires, you need to know that it's not for something that's gonna draw alot of power. Fans are fine to do this with, but i wouldn't recommend it for Pumps and Aquaero's. The manufacturers would just power it from a fan header if it was ok to do that


The whole Idea is that I dont want a massive molex power distrobution hub. The led power distribution hubs I linked don't have any resistors, if i feed them 12v they will output 12v. I'm just wondering if the pcb and pins can handle the pumps at 1.5amps each, I'm thinking they will probably handle it fine. As for the swiftech pwm headers, they have the 12v separated from the pwm so that you can connect them to motherboard headers that don't supply very much power, but I won't be connecting them to the motherboard, they will be connected to the aquaero directly which I think should have more than enough power per channel for 8 fans.


----------



## kpoeticg

I own the ModSmart hub. It has resistors. I feed it 12v and it feeds my LED's 3v....

You're taking a device that needs a 12v, 5v, and 2 grounds and just feeding it a 12v & ground = bad idea. On top of the fact that you're not feeding it enough power, you're also sending that power to it on Dupont Pins instead of Molex Pins.

When somebody has their mind set on something, it's hard to tell them otherwise, but i'm giving you good advice....

As far as the PWM, yes the Aquaero can probly handle it. But it makes no sense to use up the Aquaero's resources when you can plug the devices straight to the PSU. The reason aquacomputer came out with Power Adjusts is because DDC's use alot of power. It's not as bad of an idea as the 2Pin headers, but still best to power PWM devices str8 from the PSU

Edit: Also, don't really know how something like this is bulkier than an 8Way 2Pin hub



There's tons of ways to do it.


----------



## SeeThruHead

I couldnt find any info about the modsmart thanks for the clarification. The other one however doesn't have any resistors. All the devices I want to power use only 2 wires out of 4 on the molex. Except I guess the aquaero, I'll probably just create a custom cable to connect the aquaero directly to the psu. My main concern is the cleanliness of cabling. I want all my 12v devices that have 2 wires for power connected neatly to the same power distribution hub. The fact that I can take the two wires from the swiftech and combine them into one on the aquaero is an immense improvement over what I would have done otherwise, It's half the cabling. As for using up the aquaero's resources, If i connect everything to the psu then the aquaero wouldn't be providing any power at all, since I'm using all pwm devices. I just really want to get rid of unnecessary wires and also connectors that are only half used. A four pin molex distribution hub just seems like an inelegant solution when you're powering 6 devices that only use 2 wires for power.


----------



## MeanBruce

Anyone unhappy with the stainless steel screws shipped with the Aquaero 6 seeking an inexpensive black-out. I used a double light coat of Semi-Gloss Black angle spray instead of buying new hardware, a slight shine still remains from the extreme deep areas of the screws, but it's only seen in macro photos, your daily vision will be extremely pleased for the price.

An easy $5 dollar workaround:

Lower right front panel screw:

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6239_zps50b0239e.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5940_zps6ee5259b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5942_zpse3639564.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5952_zps61764f52.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the Aquaero is the main thing that should definitely be powered by Molex.

If you're ONLY running PWM devices, i guess you could pull it off with the Aquaero. It's just cleaner power for your pumps when they're being powered str8 from PSU. If something happens with your Aquaero, your pumps would stay running if they were hooked up to your PSU. If your pump stops, your CPU and GPU's get in trouble very quickly.

I still say power your pumps off Molex. But it's your rig and your hardware and your call. As long as you power the Aquaero off molex you should be fine. But you have no safety net if your Aquaero fails. And powering pumps off of it are one way that could make it fail. Especially multiple pumps. Don't remember if you said how many....

Give it a shot though....

Edit: Looks good Bruce


----------



## SeeThruHead

I think you've misunterstood me, the pumps will be connected to a 12v distribution block of some kind for power, not the aquaero, it's only the swiftech 8 way splitters that I want to connect directly to the aquaero. I'm not even sure if i'll be connecting the ddcs to the aquaero at all. I will probably end up making my own distribution setup using crimped on u connectors, 2 pieces of metal strip and some screws.


----------



## kpoeticg

You mean a terminal block? That should work too. I have a few of them i'm considering using in my rig.

But yeah, i misunderstood you. I thought your pumps were PWM.

I personally don't know how much power those little Dupont Pins can handle. But maybe enough for fans. It's not as crucial though now that i understand it's not controlling your pumps









I think a terminal strip would probly work better on all accounts. But there's defnitely people in this thread that would know better than me.

If your fans aren't spinning as you're expecting, then you know what the problem is. Not a huge set-back.


----------



## MeanBruce

Boink!

Because Boinks feel good.









Yes, that's a SpaceCo SpaceArm in the background allowing the suspension/hovering of the 2560x1440 27inch full gloss and full edge to edge glass Planar 440cd/m^2 display, the brightest display on the planet.

This is where I found the sweet gem, an LG IPS-AH panel bonded directly to glass, no air gap perfect clarity.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/planar-pxl2790mw-review,3647.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6207_zpsb685e9ae.jpg.html


----------



## SeeThruHead

The pumps are pwm. But they will get 12v from the psu. Pwm signal I'm not sure where I'll get that from since I've only got one header left on the aq6. They should really sell a power adjust with 2 pwm headers. I'm thinking about using one of these rather than the led splitter. Should handle a lot more current.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah terminal/barrier strips can definitely handle some current

They'll never sell a power adjust or slave device with PWM. It's not possible over Aquabus

If you're pumps are the same, you should only need one header for them.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Didn't know that, that's a shame. I have them hooked up now that way but I'd like to have them on their own headers. In order to monitor the rpm of each pump separately.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you had an LT Slave or a Power Adjust, you could read the rpm of the 2nd pump. Just pluck the rpm wire out of it and place it into it's own fan connector. The RPM feedback and PWM don't have to be on the same header...

Or even better yet, take that fan connector with the single rpm wire and plug it into your CPU fan header!!!

You could read it through the Aquaero via Aida64 or OHWM. Could even set an alarm off it if you wanted to =)


----------



## SeeThruHead

Yeah those were all possible options I'm considering. I have an lt slave and a power adjust I could use. It would require that I make a pwm splitter. And possibly clutter up my wire management. I'm going to be working in a very tight space and I need everything to be wired up in the least cluttered way.


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm gonna be setting up my 35x3 soon. I'm probly gonna setup the rpm's of the other 2 pumps to read off my mobo's software sensors in Aida.

Like you said though, it's all a matter of preference. If you have an extra header on an LT Slave, sounds like a good use for it. I'm thinking i'm gonna get a slave too. I need one extra fan header than what's on my A6Pro, been trying to decide between a PA and LT. I guess LT makes more sense since i don't really need the extra power from the PA


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you got a bunch of them . . . .
> 
> Maybe you could be the Corsair fan "tester" if I send one to you.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I have about 18 of them (both QE and PE editions). So far, I have tried out multiple splitters (Swiftech's 8-way, Akasa 5-way, Modmytoyz's 8-way) and so far the best I have gotten is reasonable control over 6 fans per channel on the AQ6 and even less so on motherboard CPU headers and other fan controllers (I tried out an old Zalman MFC-3 as well).
> 
> I will be glad to test out anything as long as you tell me what to do
Click to expand...

Excellent . . . .









I'm going to assemble one of the PCB's so you can plug in each channel individually, and one at a time for testing.

I'll use slightly different components/values for each channel, with the goal to see which one, if there's any differences between them, controls the most Corsair fans connected to the splitters connected to it.

You could have 15 fans if you daisy chain 2 Swifttech splitters, and if we can make than happen, I believe we'll have a winner.

Would you be able to get all the connections and plug ins you'd need to be able to set that scenario up?

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Sounds good, what would I need in terms of connections and plug-ins?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sounds good, what would I need in terms of connections and plug-ins?


I'll do the PCB with fairly long pigtails to plug it into the A6, and pins for you to plug the splitters onto.

It should plug right inline, but with enough pigtail length to be able to work with it, and to feel the transistors with your finger tips to see if they feel warm or hot.

The test plan is to have one chan of the A6 set to PWM, with min pwr set to zero, and max to 100 in the fans tab for that chan (check the hold min pwr box)

Then plug in chan 1 of the adapter to the A6, with a swittech splitter and 1 fan on the tach sensor capable pins on the splitter onto the output of the adapter.

Adjust the slider up and down, controllers tab, and see where the max and min fan speeds are in percent.

That gives a baseline. note the percentages

Then add fans, one a time to the splitter, and see if the control range stays about the same. note the %'s with each additional fan

Then if it works OK for the first 7 or 8 fans, connect another splitter to the first one, and add more fans.

Check the transistor's temp with your fingers periodically as you change the speed, and add fans.

If it gets warmer than you can hold onto comfortably, that's the fan limit for that channels' parts configuration.

Then do the same routine again with another of the adapters channels.

Take notes as before

The idea is to see which adapter channel controls the most fans. with the least impact on the slider's control range, as well as determining how much current sinking capability is required to be able to use the smallest amount of output transistor.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Ok I can definitely do that, it would be interesting to see if a daisy chain works. Even if it does not, from purely a research perspective, it will be fun.


----------



## adolf512

any plans for a linux version of aquasuite 2012? i am currently following http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103158-aerotools-ng-linux-support-for-the-aquaero-5/ and i might still get the aquearo 6 since it appears be possible do everything without connecting it via usb.

I need to power 2 D5 pumps, 8 120mm 800rpm slipstream fans, maybe 2 180mm fans in the future.


----------



## skupples

Is there a way to save info to the device w/o USB? I forgets...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ok I can definitely do that, it would be interesting to see if a daisy chain works. Even if it does not, from purely a research perspective, it will be fun.


Finally got to do a bit of testing on the test PCB. . .

I'm pretty sure you could run about 50, maybe a lot more, fans from the heatsinked channel, and maybe half as many from the other one with the same output transistor, but sans heatsink.

To simulate a hi current load that needs to connect to ground with very low drop, (since I don't have 50 Corsair fans) I used an automotive brake/tail light bulb from the 12V line, and let the PWM pin sink the current to ground.

The bulb goes nicely from out, to full brightness, as the slider in Aquasuite is adjusted up and down.

All 4 channels work nicely with moderate loads, (ran 4 35X's from each of the channels without a hitch) but the 2 with the Darlington transistors can sink massive amounts of current, ( a couple amps) with no drop as the load goes up.

Darlene

Here's the board:



Lamp at near max brightness:



And the scope:



Almost off:



And the scope:


----------



## skupples

Darlene, what do you think of EK's soon to be 8 PWM head controller?

Moar +1's for Darlene... Patent it, sell it to some one.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Darlene, what do you think of EK's soon to be 8 PWM head controller?
> 
> Moar +1's for Darlene... Patent it, sell it to some one.


It's pretty hard to have any thoughts regarding something that's not yet a tangible reality.

Really, the bottom line, is that you can only have so much capability in a fairly predetermined form factor, that has to stay within a price point that allows for enough sales volume to pay for the development.

Designing/building anything that has to be able to control sizable amounts of current is a tough row to hoe when it comes to miniaturization and low heat. . . . though technology improves every day.

Also, as you've maybe seen in some of my other posts, is that the more channels a controller has with greater power capabilities per channel, the more difficult it is to make it with an onboard infrastructure which can support the total power.

An 8 channel controller with a moderate 30W per channel ability would be 240 watts from the 12V line, . . . that's 20 Amps before losses and inefficiency, . . You'd need to distribute that much current across a lot of pins, wires, and pcb traces to do it efficiently.

I expect that when we see really capable controllers of that level, they'll have to connect with 8pin EPS cables, not some lame molexes.

I'm just fortunate that I can take out of the box items that have enough potential, and then add as required to suit my needs.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got to do a bit of testing on the test PCB. . .
> 
> I'm pretty sure you could run about 50, maybe a lot more, fans from the heatsinked channel, and maybe half as many from the other one with the same output transistor, but sans heatsink.
> 
> To simulate a hi current load that needs to connect to ground with very low drop, (since I don't have 50 Corsair fans) I used an automotive brake/tail light bulb from the 12V line, and let the PWM pin sink the current to ground.
> 
> The bulb goes nicely from out, to full brightness, as the slider in Aquasuite is adjusted up and down.
> 
> All 4 channels work nicely with moderate loads, (ran 4 35X's from each of the channels without a hitch) but the 2 with the Darlington transistors can sink massive amounts of current, ( a couple amps) with no drop as the load goes up.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Here's the board:
> 
> 
> 
> Lamp at near max brightness:
> 
> 
> 
> And the scope:
> 
> 
> 
> Almost off:
> 
> 
> 
> And the scope:


That is amazing!


----------



## MeanBruce

Holy Allen Wrench Batman, these things are Huuuuge!









Well I finally have a decent set of metric hexagonal wrenches, needed the 2.0mm and the 2.5mm for the Aquaero 6, no idea what I'll ever use the 10mm big boy for, a red Italian motorcycle maybe?









So today I can finally install the gorgeous red Aquacomputer A6 heatsink, thank you Shoggdogg for thinking of RED as your primary color, kpoeticg and I both lucked out.

Posting these pics for Mr. Seross69 and anyone else that loves high quality tools for your PC workshop. Was going to buy just a standard $15 Black and Decker or Stanley set, but I've had such amazing results with my two Wera bit drivers thought I might as well spend another $15 and get something that will last a life-time, makes sense in a cost-over-time equation, and these wrenches also allow complete and absolute justification for buying that red Italian motorcycle.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6336_zpscd16838b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6338_zps0fe291ef.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6337_zpscf088d3a.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6341_zps8f8e877b.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

1) AquaComputer Aquaero 6 XT System Controller 234.21-
2) Black faceplate 12.66-
3) CaseLabs Non-Conforming infinitely adjustable short mounts 13.45-
4) Rustoleum Semi-Gloss paint rattle can black 5.48-
5) AquaComputer passive heatsink 19.03-

One fully loaded Aquaero 6









$284.83

Worth Every Penny!









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6345_zps52e43a8e.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6347_zps8b9978ff.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6355_zpsae4cdcbd.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

Putting this up for kpoeticg:

I know you once said the Sanyo San Ace Silent-S fans can be as much as $50each depending on how and where you buy them, and you are correct, they can get expensive and they arrive unsleeved so factor in that cost also.

I just found them ON SALE for only $17.02 each.

Since I'm moving from an H100i and building a custom AIO with a new XSPC RX360 V3 radiator and will need one more Sanyo Denki Silent S-Type fan, AND they are on sale right now, I went ahead and ordered two more. This time Newark Element 14 offers Standard Shipping for $8.69, they did not offer that option just one year ago and the fans were only $17.02 each, so I got two on the way for only $44.77. Awesome.









If you do your own sleeving, then the cost is only $22 each. Get 'em while they're on sale, they only have 22 left in stock, well umm only 20 now, after my purchase.

http://www.newark.com/sanyo-denki-sanace-fans/9s1212m4011/axial-fan-130ma-12v/dp/03P9424

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_1705_zps1d78e738.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/LonelyBear_zps714f56cf.gif.html


----------



## skupples

I'm trying to figure out the best/easiest way to hook all three of my DDC's up to one head on the AQ6... I was thinking to either just bridge the wires together to my already existing Y splitter, or using one of the ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB's... That would require cutting some pins though, correct?


----------



## darkless

I may have found an alarm action bug in the Aquaero when using the relay. Assuming the relay is "ON" when the alarm condition is triggered, the action "Relay: Switch for 2 s" only switches the relay off but not back on again. The same problem occurs if the alarm action is "Relay: Switch for 10 s".

My Aquaero 6 Pro relay has the ATX Break adapter wired to pins 2+3. The Aquaero is connected to the motherboard via powered USB cable (always on). I'm using the latest firmware (1036) and I'm running Windows 8.1 Pro.

Steps to reproduce bug:

1) Computer is powered off and relay is "OFF".
2) Switch relay to "ON" using Aquaero front panel. This powers on the computer.
3) Switch relay to "Controlled by event system".
4) Create an alarm condition that is easy to trigger. I made a trigger based on flow.
5) Set alarm action to "Relay: Switch for 2 s".
6) Once inside Windows, trigger the alarm condition and pay attention to the Aquaero "Relay & power outputs" information page. You will see the alarm text flash briefly and the relay will switch to "OFF".
7) Relay does not switch back to "ON" after two seconds <--- BUG
8) The computer powers off. Relay is still "OFF".

Attempted workaround:
I tried setting the relay to "ON" and then flashed firmware 1036 again to see if it somehow changed the default relay setting to "ON". It did not. The relay switched back to "OFF".

I've sent a PM to Shoggy, but I figured that in case of any errors on my part you might be able to point me in the right direction


----------



## gdubc

I think I saw it mentioned that the 6xt was up as orderable at FrozenCPU, but I just noticed they're actually in stock now (30 something available) so if anybody still needs one go get it while you can!
I had saved my 10 percent off coupon from the review and got one (along with a crap ton of other stuff, I really got the most I could out of that coupon!) when they showed up as orderable a little bit ago, so mine should be on its way & I can't wait! I have a package coming tomorrow from them but I am not sure if it the aquaero or just the pressure membranes they had missed on the order...I am so much hoping it's the aquaero!

Sorry for the rambling, just getting excited like a kid at Christmas!


----------



## Ryanboost

I thought I had purchased everything I needed to get my Aquaero 6 Pro working but I think I overlooked a crucial part.

Here is my list:

1. Aquaero 6 Pro
2. Aqua Computer D5
3. Aqua Computer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 4/5/6
4. Aqua Computer Flow Meter Cable 3-pin

Here is what confuses me.

It doesn't appear that anything came with the 4 pin aquabus cable needed to connect the pump to the Aquaero 6 which I believe I need to control the pump speed.

I see one for the USB connection but I'm assuming that gets connected to the computer so that it can work with the software.

There is an RPM signal cable but it's only a 3 pin and very short so I'm not sure what that is for either.

1. Do I need to purchase a 4 pin aquabus cable
2. Since the flow sensor and the D5 pump can only be connected to the "high" aquabus port and there is only one how does that work?
3. Do I connect the D5 pump to the "high" and then connect the flow sensor to the "flow"?

Hoping you all can help me since the instructions didn't really help.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> I thought I had purchased everything I needed to get my Aquaero 6 Pro working but I think I overlooked a crucial part.
> 
> Here is my list:
> 
> 1. Aquaero 6 Pro
> 2. Aqua Computer D5
> 3. Aqua Computer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 4/5/6
> 4. Aqua Computer Flow Meter Cable 3-pin
> 
> Here is what confuses me.
> 
> It doesn't appear that anything came with the 4 pin aquabus cable needed to connect the pump to the Aquaero 6 which I believe I need to control the pump speed.
> 
> I see one for the USB connection but I'm assuming that gets connected to the computer so that it can work with the software.
> 
> There is an RPM signal cable but it's only a 3 pin and very short so I'm not sure what that is for either.
> 
> 1. Do I need to purchase a 4 pin aquabus cable
> 2. Since the flow sensor and the D5 pump can only be connected to the "high" aquabus port and there is only one how does that work?
> 3. Do I connect the D5 pump to the "high" and then connect the flow sensor to the "flow"?
> 
> Hoping you all can help me since the instructions didn't really help.


You only need a 3 pin aquabus cable for the D5 as it does not need the voltage from the AQ, You will connect both the D5 and the flow sensor to the high speed bus just use or make a Y connector!

hope this helps


----------



## Ryanboost

That helps a little but still see a potential problem.

The 3 pin aquabus cable for the D5 is (black/red/yellow) and the cable for the flow sensor is (green/yellow/orange).

Are there diagrams anywhere showing what color cable is for what?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryanboost*
> 
> That helps a little but still see a potential problem.
> 
> The 3 pin aquabus cable for the D5 is (black/red/yellow) and the cable for the flow sensor is (green/yellow/orange).
> 
> Are there diagrams anywhere showing what color cable is for what?


the color of the cable does not matter as long as they go to the same points on each connector. you an use a fan extension for the D5 aquabus and a fan y splitter to join the D5 and the flow meter.


----------



## VSG

I just got the passive cooler from PPC. It looks great other than a missed anodized spot but that won't be seen so no biggie.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I just got the passive cooler from PPC. It looks great other than a missed anodized spot but that won't be seen so no biggie.


Mine came in last week, fortunately no missed spots . . . & PPCs pricing was excellent . .

I added the passive heatsink for the 5 series in place of going to the waterblock, . . .

Seems to work out well . . just need a bit of 1.5mm thermal pad, or some 1mm and .5mm together with some TIM.

The same screws that come with it for the waterblock work fine on the passive as well.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I may go that route depending on how hot the components get at low PWM output.


----------



## ngzb

Darlene if i connect 19 PWM fans + 3 rpm fans + 1 D5 PWM pump to an Aquaero 6 , will i need the passive cooler ?


----------



## VSG

Only at low PWM signals will you generate enough heat for that to be an issue. But your bigger problem is that the D5 PWM doesn't play well with the vanilla AQ6 as Darlene has found out through some weeks of experimenting. She just finished a prototype PCB that could help out and I am sure she can explain this further.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Only at low PWM signals will you generate enough heat for that to be an issue.


PWM doesn't produce more heat at low duty cycle. That's precisely its advantage over voltage reduction.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Darlene if i connect 19 PWM fans + 3 rpm fans + 1 D5 PWM pump to an Aquaero 6 , will i need the passive cooler ?


Picking up where the others already mentioned . . .

The A6 doesn't work with the PWM D5 as it comes out of the box.

The PWM D5 doesn't exactly follow the Intel PWM standard with regards to the pull up resistor on the PWM line to 5V.

The PWM D5 also only runs at 60% speed with no PWM signal, instead of the usual 100% that comes with a 5V pullup. . . . . Seems to be a design trade-off on their part.

The 19 PWM fans, as long as they are not Corsair's PWM fans, should not be a problem, as long as you use appropriate splitters to power them from the PSU, and only send 1 tach line from a group back to the A6 channel controlling it.

The 3 voltage controlled fans, again assuming commonly used PC/rad fans, should not be a problem on 1 channel set for power or rpm control.

The A6, like most controllers, becomes the warmest at mid speeds with voltage controlled loads, when that channel is more heavily loaded.

For the capable DIY'er . . .

While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.



I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.

At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).

It would seem, although I can only speculate, that the A6 has some protective resistors built into its PWM control to limit current in an unanticipated situation.

The active component PCB solution offers the best of both worlds; the A6 sees a weak pullup, while the electrically independant D5 sees a stronger one.

Darlene


----------



## ngzb

Well i'll use a normal D5 pump then , i'm glad i didn't spend any money with a PWM D5 pump









Ups...i've bought the fans already and they are corsair 120 pwm fans







,yes i'll power the fans directly from PSU and plan to divide the 19 pwm fans in 3 groups using Swiftech 8 way splitter (sata).

Am i stuck with the fans if i want to control them with AQ6 !? or they just produce more heat than other PWM brand fans !

I was about to order a AQ6 ,now i'm confused...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Well i'll use a normal D5 pump then , i'm glad i didn't spend any money with a PWM D5 pump
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ups...i've bought the fans already and they are corsair 120 pwm fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,yes i'll power the fans directly from PSU and plan to divide the 19 pwm fans in 3 groups using Swiftech 8 way splitter (sata).
> 
> Am i stuck with the fans if i want to control them with AQ6 !? or they just produce more heat than other PWM brand fans !
> 
> I was about to order a AQ6 ,now i'm confused...


the corsair fans dont use standard for the PMW signal. I will let It Diva explain more. get the AQ6 just need different fans. sell those and get a different type


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> the corsair fans dont use standard for the PMW signal. I will let It Diva explain more. get the AQ6 just need different fans. sell those and get a different type


Witch PWM fans should i get then ? i didn't open the corsair yet, so maybe i can exchange them by other brand.

Or just exchange them for the RPM type and get the passive cooler to the AQ6 ,maybe easier this way.


----------



## VSG

You can do 6 Corsair PWM fans per channel and use any splitter you want, including the Swiftech one.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can do 6 Corsair PWM fans per channel and use any splitter you want, including the Swiftech one.


Anyone knows how many Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2 120mm x 25mm Ultra Quiet Fan can I use per channel?

thanks


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can do 6 Corsair PWM fans per channel and use any splitter you want, including the Swiftech one.


Geggeg are you sure about that ?


----------



## VSG

Yes, from personal experience even









I have 6 SP120 HPE fans on one splitter and 6 SP120 QE fans on another splitter- each on their own channel on the AQ6.


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, from personal experience even
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 6 SP120 HPE fans on one splitter and 6 SP120 QE fans on another splitter- each on their own channel on the AQ6.


Ok then ,if so i'll keep the corsair's
















Now i can order the rads and AQ6









And then some fittings and tube ,and i'm done with the watercooling for the new computer that i'm slowly building inside a 900D


----------



## Ezykill

Lucky, i can only run 5 per channel. Adding the 6th makes them all go max speed.


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ezykill*
> 
> Lucky, i can only run 5 per channel. Adding the 6th makes them all go max speed.


which fans are you using ? that happen with the AQ6 ?


----------



## Ezykill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> which fans are you using ? that happen with the AQ6 ?


Corsair SP120 Performance. Running off the swifttech PWM splitter. All running off AQ6


----------



## IT Diva

Here's a little update on where I'm at with working out the issue the A6 has with the Corsair PWM fans.

If my parts and electronic bits orders get here before the weekend, I hope to have some results posted by Sunday evening.

(From the WC club thread)

This weekend after some testing on the initial PCB I made to work out the issues with the Corsair PWM fans, I thought that I could do better with a more flexible PCB with more testing options, so I revised that PCB, and just in the last few minutes finished etching it and got it ready to drill.

To go along with that, I ordered 4 of the PWM, SP120 2-Packs and the swiftech X8 splitter on Saturday from FCPU, and an assortment of parts from Digikey.

I was, at first, looking at having someone who already had a bunch of the fans do some testing, but without seeing on the scope what's really going on, that's just not a good way to get a verifiable result.

If my results are good, and I can mod the original PCB to the final component version of the new one, I may still do that to get end user feedback.

If I have the problem solved with 8 fans, I'll get 8 more and another splitter.

I think testing 16 on a channel should be enough, since if it still looks right on the scope with 16, then I know it'll do considerably more.

Assuming I get it all working, I can still sell the fans with a PCB in the "buy & sell" section, so I can justify spending the $ that way.

(Mostly I'm a nerd chick and have an OCD need to find answers)

Anyway, . . . .

Here's the new PCB ,top . . . . with the original test unit, lower:



Here's the PCB I'll be using in the Stretch Build to allow one of the Aquaero 6's to control the 3 pairs of PWM D5's:

Getting the Aquaero to work with the PWM D5's was pretty straight forward.



Darlene


----------



## ngzb

well done Darlene, i hope you achieve your goals


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ezykill*
> 
> Corsair SP120 Performance. Running off the swifttech PWM splitter. All running off AQ6


That's weird, why am I able to control 6 and you only 5?


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's weird, why am I able to control 6 and you only 5?


I'm here thinking exactly the same


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's weird, why am I able to control 6 and you only 5?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm here thinking exactly the same
Click to expand...

The silicon lottery, mostly . . . .









As well as with individual parts variations and combined tolerances from spec.

Anyway we'll have a Much better idea here in a few more days









Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6480_zps045dfb26.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6479_zpsddda0841.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6435_zps11da5aea.gif.html


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The silicon lottery, mostly . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As well as with individual parts variations and combined tolerances from spec.
> 
> Anyway we'll have a Much better idea here in a few more days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Anxiously awaiting for the results


----------



## MeanBruce

What the?

How could they ban Shoggdogg over at [H]ardForum? Shoggy is the nicest hardware rep there is, Shoggy and Corsair George are the best and everyone from CaseLabs.









http://hotappreview.com/showthread.php?t=804803&page=83

Geez, those moderators are rough.

Don't worry Shoggy, all us banned enthusiasts we'll find a home somewhere under the sun.


----------



## skupples

Wut? & I thought some of the OCN mods were a bit over zealous...

@IT Diva Do you have access to PCB manufacturing via work or something?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> How could they ban Shoggdogg over at [H]ardForum?


It was a long while ago. Maybe Kyle wanted







for vendor rep type status? Just guessing


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It was a long while ago. Maybe Kyle wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for vendor rep type status? Just guessing


OCN does the same thing...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The silicon lottery, mostly . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As well as with individual parts variations and combined tolerances from spec.
> 
> Anyway we'll have a Much better idea here in a few more days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Anxiously awaiting for the results
Click to expand...

Okie Dokies . . . . . .

Little update, . . .

Postal service was outstanding this week, and both packages arrived today and I picked up the fans and splitter that came from from FCPU and all the electronics bits and some more PCB material that came from Digikey.









It took considerably longer to open 8 fan boxes than to see the problem on the scope as I plugged them up 1 by 1.

It was, as I expected to find, that adding fans with the PWM pins in parallel, causes the "off time" portion of the pulse to not go down all the way, or even close enough, to 0V. It gets progressively worse, less close to 0V, as you add each fan.

Another interesting revelation, was that the Corsair fans use a 2V pullup on their PWM line, where the standard is 5V.

That's not an issue to the A6, as it's doesn't have an internal pullup, but could be to other controllers, if there are any, and they can source as well as sink current on the PWM line. My PCB's can be configured either way.

Note that the PWM D5 needs a PWM output that can source current. . . . Which is why it doesn't work with the A6 natively, but works fine with my PCB's or mods.

For a bit of a run-down . . . .

With just the fans and splitter without one of my PCB's . .

I found, as others have, that up to 4 fans work quite well, . . . 5 fans work pretty well, with noticeable sacrificing of the lower rpm range.

Adding the 6th fan pretty much looses whatever amount of control you just had with 5.

I was getting minimum speed with near 0% pulse width at ~1800 with 6 fans, about 1200 to1300 with 5 fans, and a reasonable 900ish with 4 fans.

Adding the 7th gave near max rpm regardless of the controller setting.

With all 8 fans connected, the barely 2V PWM signal was barely getting down to 1V when it was supposed to be at 0V, and there was virtually no speed variation regardless of pulse width.

So to try something quick and easy, I grabbed the first version of the "test" PCB I had made and used for some initial testing.

Using a channel on the PCB with a small output transistor to see if it seemed stressed, and no pullup to 5V, all 8 fans are controlling perfectly.

The Corsair fans hold min rpm of about 750 from 0 to ~40% duty cycle.

From ~40% up to 100% they smoothly increase their rpms.

I set min to 40%, and max to 100% in the fans tab, and them moving the slider from 0 to 100 in the controllers tab gives a nice smooth control range.

I'll build the new PCB to take advantage of its designed in options, so that with a single jumper block on each channel, you can select a stronger pullup for dual PWM D5's, a weaker pullup for a single PWM D5, or no pullup at all for the 35X and the Corsair fans.

I'll order 2 more splitters and 7 more 2-Packs of the PWM SP120's in the morning.

That will give me 22 fans I can put on 1 channel to be sure I have a sufficiently robust output circuit.

I'll update shortly with some pics, just as soon as I take them.

Darlene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Wut? & I thought some of the OCN mods were a bit over zealous...
> 
> @IT Diva Do you have access to PCB manufacturing via work or something?


The only PCB shop anywhere around here is in my kitchen.

All my boards are made by a 1 at a time, mostly manual process, once I have the design completed.


----------



## VSG

Great update, was that with the quiet or high performance editions? I am still able to control 6 of each on parallel per AQ6 header on the Swiftech splitter. The minimum rpms have slightly suffered on both though but not as bad as you described.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Great update, was that with the quiet or high performance editions? I am still able to control 6 of each on parallel per AQ6 header on the Swiftech splitter. The minimum rpms have slightly suffered on both though but not as bad as you described.


I got all SP, figuring they may be a little more demanding than the quiets, and for testing, stress is a good thing.

Like I said, it's pretty much a silicon lottery with whether you get decent control with 5 or 6.

Part of it is just how much the "off time" voltage stays above what the fan control electronics see as 0, what the electronics see as 0, and just how well the A6 can pull towards 0.

There's a threshold there where a little below and all is pretty well, and a fraction above and control is near nonexistent, at least for the lower half of the speed range.

I'll have some solid parts values by weekend's end, and I'm sure at this point that the little PCB can have all 4 channels repurposed for running the Corsair PWM fans.

I think I mentioned, but the 35X pump, while it works well natively with the A6, would work fine and probably more precisely, from a channel configured for the corsair fans.

Darlene

Maybe when I order more fans tomorrow, I should get some quiet editions and not all SP.


----------



## VSG

You mean HPE, both editions are SP









Your work will be a godsend for me if I am to set up a couple of water loops in the Caselabs TX10.


----------



## ngzb

good job









Darlene you have to create you own brand of eletronics stuff for modding


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You mean HPE, both editions are SP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your work will be a godsend for me if I am to set up a couple of water loops in the Caselabs TX10.


Checked the boxes, I have the HPE's.

Buggers, looks like they are out of stock at FCPU, only the 2 of the QE's in stock.

Both still in stock at PPC's, but the swiftech splitter is OOS both places, buggers . . .

Guess I'll have to expand the one splitter I have with some of these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25413:cdf301ffeca1031dc315800f105fca00 \

Since I'll be looking to sell off the fans (with a PCB to sweeten the deal) after I use them for testing, which ones should I get, more HPE's or the QE's?

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I may well be one of your customers and to me the HPE makes more sense since they can always be tuned down or raised up if need be.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I may well be one of your customers and to me the HPE makes more sense since they can always be tuned down or raised up if need be.


I second this!


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I may well be one of your customers and to me the HPE makes more sense since they can always be tuned down or raised up if need be.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> I second this!


+1


----------



## IT Diva

Just ordered 5 more 2-Packs of the HPE's, and some splitters to expand the swiftech one.

That will give me 18 fans to run on a channel to see that the PCB design is amply robust.

Here's the pics:

The problem that causes the A6 to not be able to control more than 5 or 6 of the Corsair PWM fans, with decreasing low speed range control from 4 on up, and no control at all at 7 or more.

This is the PWM signal at the A6 with 8 Corsair fans on a Swiftech splitter. Notice that the signal peak voltage is only 1.7V, where customarily the PWM standard calls for 5V.

More importantly, the "off time" voltage that needs to pull low to a couple tenths of a volt max, is right at 0.8V.

This is just about 100% duty cycle to the fan's electronic control, so it runs at very near full speed, regardless of how narrow the pulse is.



Test bench setup:



Closer look:





And here's the pics with the PCB installed . . . . . Easy to see that the "off time" voltage drops properly to a very near 0V level

Near max speed: 2010 rpm

]

Scope . . top is at the PCB at the A6, lower is the fans at the PCB:



And what doesn't work without the PCB . . . . Low speed control: 754 rpm



Scope:



Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

I think I spot a bong in the background next to Darlene's speaker.

Ok, maybe it's a food processor.









Just joking great set-up, I have the same LAN shelving carts for my spare components in black, the chrome holds up so much better than the black.


----------



## skupples

Damn, I was looking for a PWM splitter when I placed my order last week, but the Swiftechs were all sold out, and I didn't stumble across the one D linked...

I can just bridge in one of my pumps with the other pumps leads, right?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The problem that causes the A6 to not be able to control more than 5 or 6 of the Corsair PWM fans, with decreasing low speed range control from 4 on up, and no control at all at 7 or more.
> 
> This is the PWM signal at the A6 with 8 Corsair fans on a Swiftech splitter. Notice that the signal peak voltage is only 1.7V, where customarily the PWM standard calls for 5V.
> 
> More importantly, the "off time" voltage that needs to pull low to a couple tenths of a volt max, is right at 0.8V.
> 
> This is just about 100% duty cycle to the fan's electronic control, so it runs at very near full speed, regardless of how narrow the pulse is.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Right, hang on, perhaps I haven't been paying attention properly, but is this issue with the compressed voltage high/low: a) only with 4+ Corsair fans on a PWM splitter? b) with 4+ of any type of PWM fans (but the Corsair logic is more sensitive); c) something else?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> What the?
> 
> How could they ban Shoggdogg over at [H]ardForum?


That was many years ago but the story behind it is interesting. I contacted one of the admins or mods (can not remember) and asked for a vendor status since their rules say it can be done. Well, the direct reply was a message from the forum that I have been banned for advertisement. Till today I believe that vendor thing in their rules is only a trap.

Anyway... one important note to all that use the aquaero 6. Yesterday we found a big mistake with the relay. The manual and also the engraving on the passive heatsink tells the wrong pin assignment.

The correct assignment is

Pin 1 = normally connected
Pin 2 = normally open
Pin 3 = common connector

(Pin 1 and 2 were swapped)

And I also have some news about the Swiftech MCP655 (D5). As assumed before Swiftechs implementation of the PWM control does not follow the official specifications from 2005









4_Wire_PWM_Spec.pdf 101k .pdf file


If you open the linked document you should have a look at point 2.1.4. It clearly states that the fan (pump in this case) must pull up the signal internally to a maximum of 5.25V, but this is exactly what the pump does not do - it has no pull up circuit. Point 2.3.1 shows how a hardware monitoring device like the aquaero has to be designed and it is exactly what we do incl. better tolerances to prevent damages due to faulty fans for example.

Well, we could have added a pull up on our side but in this case I do not want to be the person who has to reply to all the emails from customers claiming our aquaero damaged their fans because exactly that could happen then. If you go back to point 2.1.4 it states at the end that new designs should use 3.3V which means there are two different standards. Swiftechs pump requires 5V while a fan might only work with 3.3V. If we would add the pull up to 5V on our side the pump will work but the fan will be damaged...

Long story short: nothing wrong on our side. Anyway, there is a simple workaround for those who want to get it working without investing much money. You will need a 4,7kOhm resistor (a bit more would also work) some wiring and a soldering iron. Your goal will be to add 5V to the PWM signal wire of the pump. If your pump is powered directly by the PSU, then please take the 5V from the same cable where the pump is connected. If your pump is powered by the aquaero, then please take the 5V from the cable where the aquaero is connected. Remember to place the resistor into this connection.

With this little modification the pump can be controlled through the aquaero but this brings us to another problem. Normally the pump should always run at a minimum speed but due to the strange PWM implementation it will stop if you use a too low speed setting. I highly recommend that you go into the fan settings of the aquaero and set a minimum value of at least 30% for the channel where the pump is connected. Also make sure that you enable the option to hold the minimum setting so the pump will always run even when you do something wrong with the controller setup.

And last but not least: we are aware of the problem when you connect a bunch of fans like the ones from Corsair. It has been already solved with a small hardware modification and will be included into the next revision of the main controller. Devices dispatched in April 2014 should already use the newer revision.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The problem that causes the A6 to not be able to control more than 5 or 6 of the Corsair PWM fans, with decreasing low speed range control from 4 on up, and no control at all at 7 or more.
> 
> This is the PWM signal at the A6 with 8 Corsair fans on a Swiftech splitter. Notice that the signal peak voltage is only 1.7V, where customarily the PWM standard calls for 5V.
> 
> More importantly, the "off time" voltage that needs to pull low to a couple tenths of a volt max, is right at 0.8V.
> 
> This is just about 100% duty cycle to the fan's electronic control, so it runs at very near full speed, regardless of how narrow the pulse is.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right, hang on, perhaps I haven't been paying attention properly, but is this issue with the compressed voltage high/low: a) only with 4+ Corsair fans on a PWM splitter? b) with 4+ of any type of PWM fans (but the Corsair logic is more sensitive); c) something else?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update Shoggy









Nice to see that AC is responsive to the needs of its users.

Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure it's not exactly what the guys with the first revision A6's and Corsair fans wanted to hear. . . . . that their problem will be resolved in the next revision

The single resistor to 5V pullup for the D5 should also work a lot better on the new revision. It's really kind of a compromise doing that currently.

The D5 likes a stronger pullup than the A6 tolerates well, so you compromise at a value that gets the pulse's off time voltage low enough, while not clipping its "on time" level too greatly.

I wouldn't exceed a 4.7K, and for a dual D5 setup, I'd keep it to 3.3K

@ Wisk,

It's an issue specific to the Corsair PWM fans, (at least so far as has been reported) where everyone that's tried to use them with their A6 can only run 5, or at most 6 of them on a channel, and still maintain the ability to slow them down significantly.

The Corsairs were designed to work with their own proprietary Corsair Link system, so it looks like they didn't care to follow the Intel PWM fan standard for the logic voltage.

They use 2V, instead of 5V or the newer 3.3V standard, although that's not in itself a problem.

The problem is that the voltage of the pulse during its "off time", has to stay below a couple tenths of a volt.

The overarching issue though, seems to be that the A6 has a rather high input impedance.

I suspect it's because AC designed some protective, current limiting resistors, into the input of the PWM circuit.

The effect of that, is that as source impedance decreases as it does with multiple PWM lines in parallel, then when the controller (A6) goes low, it can't pull the input PWM line down to 0V, (or within a couple tenths) as some voltage is dropped across the input resistance.

The control electronics in the fan, then see either a much wider than actual pulse, or just a 100% pulse width once you reach about the 7th fan for the Corsairs.

Now if the fans used a weaker pullup resistor, (higher resistance) internally, the higher input impedance of the A6 would have less effect.

Perhaps that why there don't seem to be issues with other PWM fans designed to meet the Intel standard.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I suspect it's because AC designed some protective, current limiting resistors, into the input of the PWM circuit.


Exactly that









It is possible to get all fans working by bridging the protective circuit but that is a bit too much *******-style for us to share how it could be done since it would also void the warranty.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I suspect it's because AC designed some protective, current limiting resistors, into the input of the PWM circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is possible to get all fans working by bridging the protective circuit but that is a bit too much *******-style for us to share how it could be done since it would also void the warranty.
Click to expand...

You'll notice that I didn't let on to that either









Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Corsairs were designed to work with their own proprietary Corsair Link system, so it looks like they didn't care to follow the Intel PWM fan standard for the logic voltage.


Understood









Thanks for your explanation!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> That was many years ago but the story behind it is interesting. I contacted one of the admins or mods (can not remember) and asked for a vendor status since their rules says it can be done. Well, the direct reply was a message from the forum that I have been banned for advertisement. Till today I believe that vendor thing in their rules is only a trap.
> 
> Anyway... one important note to all that use the aquaero 6. Yesterday we found a big mistake with the relay. The manual and also the engraving on the passive heatsink tells the wrong pin assignment.
> 
> The correct assignment is
> 
> Pin 1 = normally connected
> Pin 2 = normally open
> Pin 3 = common connector
> 
> (Pin 1 and 2 were swapped)
> 
> And I also have some news about the Swiftech MCP655 (D5). As assumed before Swiftechs implementation of the PWM control does not follow the official specifications from 2005
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4_Wire_PWM_Spec.pdf 101k .pdf file
> 
> 
> If you open the linked document you should have a look at point 2.1.4. It clearly states that the fan (pump in this case) must pull up the signal internally to a maximum of 5.25V, but this is exactly what the pump does not do - it has no pull up circuit. Point 2.3.1 shows how a hardware monitoring device like the aquaero has to be designed and it is exactly what we do incl. better tolerances to prevent damages due to faulty fans for example.
> 
> Well, we could have added a pull up on our side but in this case I do not want to be the person who has to reply to all the emails from customers claiming our aquaero damaged their fans because exactly that could happen then. If you go back to point 2.1.4 it states at the end that new designs should use 3.3V which means there are two different standards. Swiftechs pump requires 5V while a fan might only work with 3.3V. If we would add the pull up to 5V on our side the pump will work but the fan will be damaged...
> 
> Long story short: nothing wrong on our side. Anyway, there is a simple workaround for those who want to get it working without investing much money. You will need a 4,7kOhm resistor (a bit more would also work) some wiring and a soldering iron. Your goal will be to add 5V to the PWM signal wire of the pump. If your pump is powered directly by the PSU, then please take the 5V from the same cable where the pump is connected. If your pump is powered by the aquaero, then please take the 5V from the cable where the aquaero is connected. Remember to place the resistor into this connection.
> 
> With this little modification the pump can be controlled through the aquaero but this brings us to another problem. Normally the pump should always run at a minimum speed but due to the strange PWM implementation it will stop if you use a too low speed setting. I highly recommend that you go into the fan settings of the aquaero and set a minimum value of at least 30% for the channel where the pump is connected. Also make sure that you enable the option to hold the minimum setting so the pump will always run even when you do something wrong with the controller setup.
> 
> And last but not least: we are aware of the problem when you connect a bunch of fans like the ones from Corsair. It has been already solved with a small hardware modification and will be included into the next revision of the main controller. Devices dispatched in April 2014 should already use the newer revision.


Thanks for the update. Any chance AQ6 is going to allow some sort of trade in program for the revised unit?


----------



## Shoggy

No, we will not offer anything like that.

If you have some experience with SMD soldering you can write us an e-mail or contact me directly to get information how it can be modified.


----------



## VSG

That's a shame! Now I have no alternative but to use Darlene's expertise since I don't have any experience with SMD soldering.


----------



## ngzb

hello Shoggy how do we get to know if the A6's for sale after the new revision is released are really the new revision ones ?

Since i'm "stuck" with 20 corsairs PWM fans its important for me to be sure that i'm buying the right one


----------



## Shoggy

Without having the device in your hand and the knowledge where to look there is no way to tell if it is a current or earlier version.


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Without having the device in your hand and the knowledge where to look there is no way to tell if it is a current or earlier version.


Ok then, i wait for May or June since i still have a lot of parts to buy for the new computer ,i can order the A6 later









I'll send you guys an email to Aqua computer by that time ,just to be sure that i'm having the new revision









Thanks


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's a shame! Now I have no alternative but to use Darlene's expertise since I don't have any experience with SMD soldering.


Gegged i'm sure you'll be more than OK with Darlene's expertise


----------



## VSG




----------



## IT Diva

I've PM'd Shoggy relative to the mod, now that he's let the cat out of the bag . . . .

Assuming a positive response, I'll try it on one of my A6's, and compare the results to my PCB's, and see just how much effort is involved.

Hopefully, I can help out some of you that already have a lot of Corsair fans and a current version A6.

A little more update . . . .

Shoggy was a sweetheart and filled me in on what he was referring to, and what range they expect to change the resistor values to.

I'm going to finish up my new PCB this weekend, and replenish some of my smt supplies this week.

My next 10 fans shipped today from PPCs, so they'll be here sometime next week so I'll have 18 total to use for testing.

I'll try to do the mod on one of my A6's, at least to 1 channel of it, and compare the results to what I get with my PCB next weekend.

Darlene


----------



## SeeThruHead

Anyone know what microcontroller(s) I might use to create and analog voltage to pwm duty cycle converter? I'd really like to make the other channels on my aq5 lt pwm.


----------



## Marscorpion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, we will not offer anything like that.
> 
> If you have some experience with SMD soldering you can write us an e-mail or contact me directly to get information how it can be modified.


This is not very proper for those who bought the current version.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> Anyone know what microcontroller(s) I might use to create and analog voltage to pwm duty cycle converter? I'd really like to make the other channels on my aq5 lt pwm.


I've actually done quite a project on converting an analog, 0V to 12V output, to 0% to 100%, 5V, PWM signal.

The original purpose was to be able to use a Lamptron CW611 to run PWM pumps based on temp, but it would convert the 5 series, 2, 3 &4 channels to PWM just as well. . . . if you made several of them.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395117/diy-voltage-controlled-scalable-pwm-controller

Ultimately, I concluded that using variable pump speed to manage temps was not a worthwhile pursuit, and after developing a perfectly working prototype for the analog input processing circuit that interfaced to the voltage controlled the PWM generator circuit, didn't pursue that part further.

I did however extensively develop the voltage controlled PWM circuit, and it's what I now use for all my PWM kit related testing.

But back to your inquiry;

Any of the popular microcontrollers with A/D conversion inputs and PWM outputs could be used. . . . maybe make a nice Arduino, (atmel controller) project

The equally tricky part is getting the voltage level translations managed, and buffering the micro controller's output.

You'll need to re-span the nominal 12V range to something useable by the rest of the design.

In mine, 0 to 100% needed 1/3 Vcc to 2/3 Vcc, or ~1.66V to 3.33V, if you use a micro, it'll be 0 V to Vref.

And then use a summing/differencing amp with an offset source to align the variable voltage to the proportional PWM %.

I did mine with analog technology, as it was a work in progress, with expanding capabilities as it progressed, and because some things are easier to have as hardware adjustable, like span and calibration trim pots so you don't have to write the extra code to set up span and calibration routines to run with digipots that complicate the circuitry even more.

Working with the CW611 was further complicated because its output is +rail referenced, so I needed an inverting differential amp to condition that input.

Anyway, It is an idea to ponder, and revisit . . . . . I just might have to have another go at this from a different end use perspective.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> This is not very proper for those who bought the current version.


Why should we be responsible and pay for this _design flaw_ from Corsair? I have read on several other places that people have problems with these fans when connecting a few of them to a splitter or fan controller.


----------



## VSG

Then why revise your part to accommodate it at all, if it is all Corsair at fault? I don't think anyone has issues with you guys following the standards and someone else's parts not being compatible with it. More like a revisions this early leads to early adopters getting screwed again.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> This is not very proper for those who bought the current version.
> 
> 
> 
> Why should we be responsible and pay for this _design flaw_ from Corsair? I have read on several other places that people have problems with these fans when connecting a few of them to a splitter or fan controller.
Click to expand...

+1

I have to agree with Shoggy here.

It's really a case of "Bad on Corsair" for calling them PWM fans, which more than tacitly implies PWM as it applies to the PC industry; ie: the Intel standard.

Multiple Corsair PWM fans on the mobo CPU header doesn't work any better, and sometimes worse, than with the A6.

That AC is willing to make an accommodation in their design, for non standard design and attendant deceptive labeling/marketing on Corsair's part is quite laudable.

The beef is really with Corsair, not AC.

Darlene

Being early adopters always carries some risk of the unforeseen . . . .

Much as we hate it when it happens, there are usually always some issues with the first releases of anything.


----------



## skupples

They sound like jet engines anyways. Function>Form.


----------



## VSG

Hence all the more reason to get them well controlled.


----------



## skupples

I guess I just don't see the point when you can buy fans that will run @ the same RPM @ half the noise levels. Oh right, the rings of genericness.







Not trying to be rude, so don't take it that way. I just find the corsair fan rings (even when custom painted) extremely generic looking @ this point in the game. buuut iv'e always been function>form. Typhoons definitely look generic, but they are also low profile in terms of eye grabbing.

Corsair fans are about as annoying as it gets on my ear's list of annoying fans.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Then why revise your part to accommodate it at all, if it is all Corsair at fault? I don't think anyone has issues with you guys following the standards and someone else's parts not being compatible with it. More like a revisions this early leads to early adopters getting screwed again.


Maybe you have the wrong point of view here. The problem that we are speaking about only affects customers using this specific fan which means compared to the whole customer base we could also take it this way: you belong to a tiny group of individuals that just have bad luck and we can not help you. Well, luckily we are Aqua Computer and not P*i*neapple
















The aquaero board like pretty much every other more complex electronic part from other companies is produced as larger series and assembled bit by bit to the final product. So it takes a while till all boards are gone and a new series must be produced. In the meantime we get feedback about problems like the one with the Corsair fans. Of course we check what is the reason for this problem and if it can be addressed for the next production run. If it only takes a small modification like in this case here, we would be pretty stupid not to take care of it. It is not a confession of guilt that we did something wrong - it is very much the opposite and just called service. We take care of mistakes that others have done.

Several other electronic products from us have gone through a few revisions before and I assume 99% of the customers do not even know about that because they had no problems from the beginning.


----------



## gdubc

^Well said.

I am just happy to at least know of the revision, as I was about to get a second aquaero 6. Now I know I can just get by with the 5lt I have for that setup until later when I can make sure to get the new rev.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah just to chime in, i know for a fact that Corsair chose to use a proprietary PWM design to keep Corsair users buying more Corsair products. That was a choice Corsair made, not Aquacomputer. This really isn't AC's problem. If you wanna complain to somebody, you should definitely speak up on the Corsair forums or send emails to them. There's not many mentions of their Hybrid PWM/Tach design, but it's on their forums.

You can't really expect AC to take a financial loss because of Corsair's decision...

This is literally CORSAIR specific


----------



## longroadtrip

^^ This...

It just goes to show how much AquaComputer listens to their customers and is always striving to help that they are releasing a new revision that fixes a different company's problem. Hats off to you and your team Shoggy!


----------



## kpoeticg

Agreed. I've been very impressed with AC Customer Support/Service since i've become a customer.

I've never seen a company release a new revision of something, then offer to show you how to solder the change yourself if you send them a PM.

A greedy company would release an Aquaero 7 based off this design. AC's just trying to make their product as user friendly as possible.


----------



## MeanBruce

Nice to see kpoeticg back in the mixology.









I have 5 Corsair fans 3AF-Quiets and 2SP-Quiets, $14.99 each and a $29.99 twin-pak and for most users they seem fine.

Personally, they feel like cheap plastic junk when held in the hand compared to quality built and engineered fans from other manufacturers. Everyone finds their favorite fan after being in this hobby a few years, starting out most new enthusiasts grab the Corsairs because they are pretty and the price is right, when you get more serious about your rig, or rely on it to get your work completed or consider yourself a silent enthusiast, as I do myself, then you look to find something of much higher quality.

I've heard enthusiasts only talk in superlatives when speaking of Noise Blockers, Gentle Typhoons, some of the better engineered Air Penetrators, and my favorite the Sanyo-Denki San Ace Silent Type-S.

No Corsair proprietary BS with any of these wonderfully designed fans.

I posted where to get the Sanyos a few pages back, they are still on sale for $17.02 each, and will most likely last a good ten years or more running completely inaudible to the human ear at (1000rpms and below), AND they work harmoniously with the Aquaero 6. I run mine at 500rpm, 600rpm and 700rpm and they still push high volumes of air, enough to keep all temps nice and frosty.

My Aquaero can drop two Sanyos on a single channel down to 165rpm before they stop spinning using way less than a volt, just a measure of how highly sophisticated both the Aquaero 6 and the Sanyo fans truly are, the electrical precision is world-class.

This is a pic when I ordered my first Sanyos, Dec 2012, I was still using my Corsair 650D chassis, it was pure love when I got them sleeved at Performance PCs brought them home and plugged them in. Awwwwww...

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_1250_zps6c1075a7.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm always around









This thread just isn't as active as it was during pre-release.

Yeah those San Ace's are beasts. I already have too many GT AP-00's, AP-15's, and NB eLoops to upgrade to San Ace's at this point though. Plus i'd almost definitely need to add a few PA2's to be able to handle a rig full of those.

I don't have a PWM D5 or Corsair fans, so haven't had much to add to the convo's lately. Darlene's done a great job troubleshooting the issue for everybody (as she always does)!!!

I just remember reading about Corsair's proprietary PWM before the A6 was announced. The Corsair Link's "PWM" functionality seemed like it would be a godsend. Then researching further lead me to their forums where i learned that they only recommend using Corsair Link's PWM with Corsair PWM Fans because they use their own Hybrid PWM Design. Which = Proprietary


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm not certain why this thread has not morphed into an Aquaero Club and is still lingering in the Hardware News section, not that there's anything wrong with that.









At least its here...

But the Aquaero is more than worthy of a club, a central hub where owners can find answers.









Sup Shogg?, you daaaawg.


----------



## kpoeticg

A club thread needs some1 willing to be the mod for it. I'm sure an Aquaero Club thread would have plenty of members if some1 felt like starting it.

This was really just an announcement thread that got alot of attention


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm always around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread just isn't as active as it was during pre-release.
> 
> Yeah those San Ace's are beasts. I already have too many GT AP-00's, AP-15's, and NB eLoops to upgrade to San Ace's at this point though. Plus i'd almost definitely need to add a few PA2's to be able to handle a rig full of those.
> 
> I don't have a PWM D5 or Corsair fans, so haven't had much to add to the convo's lately. Darlene's done a great job troubleshooting the issue for everybody (as she always does)!!!
> 
> I just remember reading about Corsair's proprietary PWM before the A6 was announced. The Corsair Link's "PWM" functionality seemed like it would be a godsend. Then researching further lead me to their forums where i learned that they only recommend using Corsair Link's PWM with Corsair PWM Fans because they use their own Hybrid PWM Design. Which = Proprietary


Don't believe you would need AquaComputer Power Adjuster modules for this type of San Ace, rated at only 80mA and 130mA. Maybe you are thinking of the ultra-high powered 6000rpm aluminum frame Sanyo San Ace fans. Of course, it's always prudent to check with an electronics circuit expert like Darlene, before designing a new fan array.


----------



## kpoeticg

Oh, that's less than i thought. Yeah, i musta been thinking of a different model

I bug Darlene with enough questions. I don't need to bother her for simple math


----------



## VSG

I appreciate everyone's comments in here, can someone recommend a good PWM fan in the 120 and 140mm sizes that won't break the bank? The main reasoning behind me wanting to go PWM is so I can hook up a lot of fans to each AQ6 header and control them since they will be powered by splitters. The AQ6 also will not get really stressed or hot.


----------



## kpoeticg

eLoops for 120 and Akasa Vipers for 140


----------



## IT Diva

. . . . . The Diva 'Dapter PCB is here . . . .
















OK, . . . Maybe it's not all that big of a deal . . . .









But anyway, I'm pretty happy with it.

I combined all the tweaks to make the A6 compatible with the PWM D5's and PWM Corsair fans, all onto one PCB, with a little jumper block to select what you want to use that channel for, either single D5, multi D5's or Corsair fans

There's 4 channels on the board to match up to an A6.

Each channel has its own 5V regulator and gets its 12V power from the first channel's plugin to the A6.

From left to right, channels 4 thru 1, the jumper is on:

Strong pullup, multi D5's

Weak pullup, single D5

No pullup, Corsair fans & multi 35X's

No pullup, Corsair fans & multi 35X's

As before, the outputs are electrically independent from the A6 which sees a 4.7K pullup on all channels.

I'll post some pics of it in operation a bit later on after the clear lacquer coating on the copper side has dried.

I'll set it up with 1 channel running the Corsair fans and another running the dual D5 test setup.

Now all we have to do is get AC to downsize it with nice surface mount bits, and offer it for sale.



Here's the original test board with components closely matched to the new PCB.

As soon as the next fans come in, I'll test it here, and then send it out for further "live" testing.


----------



## kpoeticg

Love the name also!!!


----------



## VSG

Exciting stuff! Hopefully a mod won't lock this thread midway through your work since technically this is not for a hardware news forum. Maybe someone can just move the entire thread to general cooling?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Exciting stuff! Hopefully a mod won't lock this thread midway through your work since technically this is not for a hardware news forum. Maybe someone can just move the entire thread to general cooling?


Or I could start an A6 Club & mods thread . . . . .
If Shoggy doesn't mind

D.









Ahhh, seeing that Shoggy isn't the OP, I guess he wouldn't mind.


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Or I could start an A6 Club & mods thread . . . . .
> If Shoggy doesn't mind
> 
> D.


That´s a good ideia









Diva 'Dapter PCB














nice name ,were can we order one ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Or I could start an A6 Club & mods thread . . . . .
> If Shoggy doesn't mind
> 
> D.


I think that's a great idea. Personally, i wouldn't restrict it to just the A6 though. OCN could definitely use an [Official] Aquaero Owner's Club thread though. I can't think of a better person to run it =)


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> That´s a good ideia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diva 'Dapter PCB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice name ,were can we order one ?


Just PM the mod who runs these here parts & request them to move the thread to the appropriate section, & dub you OP.


----------



## MeanBruce

3 brains working in unison always derive better results than just one, my vote is for Darlene to run, officiate, and govern the Official Aquaero Club.


----------



## IT Diva

I wonder if the OP, who no longer seems active in the thread, would mind turning over the thread to me and having a mod rename it to the Aquaero Owners Club and move it to the Water Cooling section?

Maybe if he gets enough PM's, . . . . lol

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> That´s a good ideia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diva 'Dapter PCB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice name ,were can we order one ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just PM the mod who runs these here parts & request them to move the thread to the appropriate section, & dub you OP.
Click to expand...

Can they do that if the OP hasn't been active in the thread in a certain period of time?


----------



## MeanBruce

I'm still not clear on the PWM advantage. Can someone explain why anyone would want this schema, when you already own a 4-channel (16 fans per channel) Aquaero 6?

But then I'm only running a simple 7-fan array using three of the four A6 channels and using 80mA and 130mA fans, so what do I know?


----------



## kpoeticg

Well there's alot of advantages to PWM > Voltage Control, but the Aquaero 6 is already fully PWM Capable.

The PWM D5 and Corsair SP120 PWM's operate a little differently than normal PWM. So Darlene came up with a solution so you can run PWM D5's and PWM SP120's from the A6 just like any other PWM device

PWM gives you a much greater range of control because the fan or pump is constantly getting it's full 12v while the 4th PWM wire is communicating with and telling it how fast to spin, it doesn't use up all the resources of the controller because it's being powered directly from the PSU, also because it's being powered str8 from the PSU you can run ALOT more devices off of a single channel


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I'm still not clear on the PWM advantage. Can someone explain why anyone would want this schema, when you already own a 4-channel (16 fans per channel) Aquaero 6?
> 
> But then I'm only running a simple 7fan array using three of the four A6 channels and using 80mA and 130mA fans, so what do I know?


PWM has a couple major advantages over variable voltage for speed control.

One is that's more efficient with less heat, and the second, and what we make use of most, is that it allows much slower operation than variable voltage, all else being equal, and it has much greater torque at the lower speeds than variable voltage, so that fans/pumps will start much more reliably at low speeds.

At some risk of oversimplification, here's why:

Let's use a real world example of D5 pump.

At 12V it draws 2 amps

for 24W of power.

If we cut the voltage in half . . .

At 6V it draws 1 amp

for 6W of power

If we run it for 1 minute, that's 24 and 6 watt minutes

so for half the voltage, we end up with 1/4 the power.

Torque is proportional to the current.

Now let's use a PWM version D5 . . .

At 12V with 100% duty cycle, it draws the same 2 amps

For 24W of power

If we run it for the same 1 minute, that's the same 24 watt minutes of power and the full speed torque is the same as above.

Now lets run it at 50% duty cycle . . .

12V times the 2A gives us 24W which we divide by 2 for the 50% duty cycle, and we have 12W of power

If we run at 50% for 1 minute, we have 12watt minutes of power.

Notice that the current is still at 2 amps during the run portion of the pulse, so the torque is much greater than the half voltage scenario above.

Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

So was this original performance video of the Aquaero 6 using PWM fans?


----------



## Shoggy

No, they are voltage controlled and directly powered by the aquaero.


----------



## kpoeticg

The A6 can power ~2.5A per channel. The A5 could handle ~1.5A per channel. That was the point of that demo video. On an A5, you'd need a PA to handle that much power


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, they are voltage controlled and directly powered by the aquaero.


That's what I like solid simplicity.

So why does anyone need to use PWM fans with the amazing Aquaero 6?


----------



## IT Diva

We now have an OCN Aquaero Owners Club

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club

With this being a "new hardware" thread, it's really kind of time to have a real thread for all things Aquaero.

Hopefully, Shoggy will make regular appearances and hang out with us as much as possible.

As soon as we get enough of a base and following, we can become "Official".

See you all there
















Darlene


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can they do that if the OP hasn't been active in the thread in a certain period of time?


I'm pretty sure the mod is the only one who can turn over ownership of a thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We now have an OCN Aquaero Owners
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Club
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club
> 
> With this being a "new hardware" thread, it's really kind of time to have a real thread for all things Aquaero.
> 
> Hopefully, Shoggy will make regular appearances and hang out with us as much as possible.
> 
> As soon as we get enough of a base and following, we can become "Official".
> 
> See you all there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Were you denied the ability to transform this thread? Or was it just easier to make a new one?


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can they do that if the OP hasn't been active in the thread in a certain period of time?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure the mod is the only one who can turn over ownership of a thread.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We now have an OCN Aquaero Owners
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Club
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club
> 
> With this being a "new hardware" thread, it's really kind of time to have a real thread for all things Aquaero.
> 
> Hopefully, Shoggy will make regular appearances and hang out with us as much as possible.
> 
> As soon as we get enough of a base and following, we can become "Official".
> 
> See you all there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Were you denied the ability to transform this thread? Or was it just easier to make a new one?
Click to expand...

One of the mods PM'd me and suggested a new one was the best route to proceed. . . . .

So I did.

Hopefully, the Owners Club will work out like the R4BE thread where Luna started from scratch from the pre-release thread.

Darlene


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## adolf512

the d5 vario + molex+signal to 3pin adapter appears to be a suitable for controlling a d5 with the aquearo 6, and since you can fit a 3-pin connector into a 4-pin header this should be the only adapter needed. i guess that adapter costs approx 1$ to make


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adolf512*
> 
> the d5 vario + molex+signal to 3pin adapter appears to be a suitable for controlling a d5 with the aquearo 6, and since you can fit a 3-pin connector into a 4-pin header this should be the only adapter needed. i guess that adapter costs approx 1$ to make


You've obviously missed the whole point of the discussion . . . . not to mention where the thread and discussion has moved to.

We are talking specifically about the PWM version of the D5 pump, and how to control it with the PWM capable A6.

It was learned quickly after the A6 was released that the PWM version of the D5 did not conform to the Intel PWM standard, and you could not control its speed with the A6.

The mod pictured in the past posts, allows the PWM version of the D5 to now be controlled via an A6. . . . . It's very specific to that model D5, and the PWM D5 has much finer speed control than trying to control a non PWM version via variable voltage.

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> the thread and discussion has moved to


Specifically http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club


----------



## tpi2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can they do that if the OP hasn't been active in the thread in a certain period of time?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure the mod is the only one who can turn over ownership of a thread.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We now have an OCN Aquaero Owners
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Club
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club
> 
> With this being a "new hardware" thread, it's really kind of time to have a real thread for all things Aquaero.
> 
> Hopefully, Shoggy will make regular appearances and hang out with us as much as possible.
> 
> As soon as we get enough of a base and following, we can become "Official".
> 
> See you all there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Were you denied the ability to transform this thread? Or was it just easier to make a new one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> One of the mods PM'd me and suggested a new one was the best route to proceed. . . . .
> 
> So I did.
> 
> Hopefully, the Owners Club will work out like the R4BE thread where Luna started from scratch from the pre-release thread.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> the thread and discussion has moved to
> 
> 
> 
> Specifically http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club
Click to expand...

Ok, seems fair enough, the club has picked up pretty well already and this thread is getting old (as in, not news anymore, as it dates back to September of last year), so continue discussing the subject over there.

Cheers.


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