# Keyboard DYE customization guide!!!



## VCheeZ

Thanks to Manyak for turning me on to using RIT dye to customize keys! After reading up on the webs about the process...I figured I would share my findings and my first attempt









Using dye to color your individual keys and board work much better than paint, because the dye gets infused with the plastic, and won't ever wear off.
As far as I can tell, the most widely used and most effective dye for this process is RIT dye, which you can find at your local drugstore (Rite Aid) or department store (Wal-Mart).

The Rit dye comes in several colors, and is available as a powder or a liquid.









I chose royal blue, cocoa brown, and scarlet for my next few projects. So lets give it a shot ...first with some Scarlet!

I try to use a highly concentrated batch of dye/water. I'd say what I used was 6 parts water to 1 part liquid dye... I am sure this is overkill, but I wanted results








There are different types of plastics used by different keyboard manufacturers. Some are harder to dye than others. The melting points are different, so you have to be careful!
For reference, melting point of ABS is 105Â°C, PBT is 221Â°C.

Make sure you clean the keys with soap and water..and then a light wipe with rubbing alcohol before attempting to dye...we want EVEN colors!

Salt seems to be good for setting the colors in stone. I have also read that adding vinegar to your dye solution can raise the acidity of the dye, allowing it to penetrate the plastic easier. All things worth trying out! I will be experimenting over the coming weeks and will let you all know what I find to be the most effective at getting the job done.

Here is the dye I picked up:









And for the first attempt, we will be dying the enters, esc, arrows, and w-a-s-d of a logitech multimedia keyboard that happens to have a Brazillian layout :0
















My original plan was to use a strainer to suspend the keys in the solution for easy access to them in case they got too hot. I abandoned this after the first dip...my keys didn't melt

















I added a couple of tablespoons of salt and made sure to bring my solution to a boil, which I hear is good to "activate" the dye.

















Once I had reached a rolling boil, I removed the pan from the hat and dropped the keys in...stirring constantly at first so they did not hit the hot metal bottom and melt.
These keys seemed to be of the difficult sort. After their first 15 minute soak, I ended up with salmon-pink keys. Being the determined individual I am...I rinsed the keys while returning the solution to a boil again to repeat the process. After three 15 minute baths....here are the results!

























So i think I am getting the hang of it







Stay tuned for later this week when my Cherry G84-4100 Mechanical Mini arrives...I will be doing a full-mod on it!

















UPDATED shots of original mod board with brown added
























G84 Dye PICS:
http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...ml#post6891706

















*Other OCN'ers DYE job LOGS!*
Jrice00
http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...board-dye.html

theCanadian
http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...ml#post6842468

StretchNuts
http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...ml#post6955448


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## Quantum Reality

This kicks!


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## catmmm

i want to do this lol


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## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catmmm* 
i want to do this lol

what be ye awaiting for then ma lady?

Edit:

I did my own.

I rubberized the frame with undercoating and did the keys with a dark green. I didn't think to dye the key's until after I rubberized the frame or I would have dyed the frame as well to make the color match.

Edit: I have since colored in the beige part with green Sharpie. Much better


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## VCheeZ

So lets see your dye-jobs!


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## low strife

Dang, that looks pretty awesome.

Too bad I have a jet black keyboard.


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## Interpolation

Nice DIY mod. It will be interesting to see the outcome of the cherry.


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## Cerberus

I...

Will this work on a keyboard with Black keys?


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## aksthem1

This is made of win. You sir deserve a cookie.


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## DevilGear44

That looks so awesome! Sadly I have a G15, but this makes me want to dig out the 10+ PS2 keyboards we all have laying around and color 'em!


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## R00ST3R

Awesome stuff! Looks like I'll be hitting the store tommorow.


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## catmmm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
what be ye awaiting for then ma lady?

uhh not sure


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## BubblesMuhaha

Oooooo this looks interesting... Think I may try like a green on black for my keyboard... Or maybe red... I dunno @[email protected]


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## Cerberus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *catmmm* 
uhh not sure









OT: Is it bad, that when, I look at your profile pic I think of Kakarot? /OT


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cerberus* 
I...

Will this work on a keyboard with Black keys?

I'm sure it would "work" but you would never see what it did.


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## Cerberus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
I'm sure it would "work" but you would never see what it did.









:O

I wonder if i can throw some old keys in it.
BRB

EDIT: Sadly i cannot


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## cgg123321

Wow rep+ I will have to try this out some time









EDIT: Damn, can't give you reps haha


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cerberus* 
:O

I wonder if i can throw some old keys in it.
BRB

EDIT: Sadly i cannot









The keyboard I dyed in the OP was from a 5-pack of boards I payed .99 cents for on e-bay. Like 6 bucks shipped









Quote:


Originally Posted by *cgg123321* 
Wow rep+ I will have to try this out some time









EDIT: Damn, can't give you reps haha

Issok


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## Cerberus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
The keyboard I dyed in the OP was from a 5-pack of boards I payed .99 cents for on e-bay. Like 6 bucks shipped









Issok









:O link?


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## Manyak

Haha, nice to see you're having fun with it









As soon as I get a pan big enough for the casing of my Model M i'll do it and post pics


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## grishkathefool

does the dye bond well enough so as to not stain your fingers or wear off from excessive WASD usage?


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## StretchNuts

another old trick of the r/c hobby bleeding over to computers
















Another note, you will get deeper, and sometimes darker colors if you leave the parts in longer. Also you can use those large disposable "turkey pans" an bake them in the oven if your oven will allow you to drop down to about 90*F. Multiple short soakings work best, with a rinse after each one, to make sure the color is what you want before it gets too dark.


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grishkathefool* 
does the dye bond well enough so as to not stain your fingers or wear off from excessive WASD usage?

Good question. As far as I have read, this is a non-issue. The dye actually penetrates to become part of the key. I was reading where one fellow did not like a certain color and tried to sand it off to no avail. He said after cutting the key in half, he was amazed at how deep the dye had penetrated into the plastic.


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## Manyak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grishkathefool* 
does the dye bond well enough so as to not stain your fingers or wear off from excessive WASD usage?

It will never wear out, it's permanent.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StretchNuts* 
another old trick of the r/c hobby bleeding over to computers
















Another note, you will get deeper, and sometimes darker colors if you leave the parts in longer. Also you can use those large disposable "turkey pans" an bake them in the oven if your oven will allow you to drop down to about 90*F. Multiple short soakings work best, with a rinse after each one, to make sure the color is what you want before it gets too dark.

The problem is that ABS plastic which most keyboards are made of (one notable exception being the IBM Model M which uses PVC) will deform very easily if it's too hot or you leave them in too long. So you _always_ want to do multiple short baths, or your keyboard might end up unusable.

Edit: Here, look at what happened to the spacebar and arrow keys during my first ever dye attempt:


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## IEATFISH

Rit dye is great for plastics and cloth. Many people use it in the RC car scene to customize their rides. The nice thing about dye as opposed to paint is that the dye soaks into the plastic. The longer you soak, the deeper it goes. So when you are wearing down your keys on the keyboard, you will still have that sweet color.

Great job!!!


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Manyak* 
The problem is that ABS plastic which most keyboards are made of (one notable exception being the IBM Model M which uses PVC) will deform very easily if it's too hot or you leave them in too long. So you _always_ want to do multiple short baths, or your keyboard might end up unusable.

Edit: Here, look at what happened to the spacebar and arrow keys during my first ever dye attempt:

Yes I know. Many R/C car parts are also ABS plastic. I have dyed many sets of wheels. It also seems like the cheaper quality the product, the easier it takes to the dye.

Edit: Some ABS plastic will take the darker colors (like the blue you used) without even heating the dye or keys. The result is alot more even color, and easily controlled tint as it doesnt enter the plastic pigment as fast. The downside is that it doesnt go as deep. Dont see a problem with keyboard keys, but on r/c wheels if you used the "cold method" the deeper scrapes and nics would show white underneath.


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## grishkathefool

Nice thanks for the tips...

unfortunately, my KB is also black.

have to keep my eyes open for a new one anyway, though, this one is 5 years old and a lot of the letters are faded/worn off. (WASD, lol)

ooooh.... now I am thinking about using this trick on a laptop encasement..... and a mouse body.... oh, and my old Altec speakers......


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grishkathefool* 
Nice thanks for the tips...

unfortunately, my KB is also black.

have to keep my eyes open for a new one anyway, though, this one is 5 years old and a lot of the letters are faded/worn off. (WASD, lol)

ooooh.... now I am thinking about using this trick on a laptop encasement..... and a mouse body.... oh, and my old Altec speakers......

Also works on those older beige bezel trim pieces and CD/DVD Rom face plates









Glossy finished plastic needs to be roughened up a little with sandpaper, then after dyeing (and many days of drying), can be clear coated and wet sanded/polished back to a very nice finish.


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## VCheeZ

Currenlty working on more keys...will update the OP within the next hour


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## theCanadian

I did my own.

I rubberized the frame with undercoating and did the keys with a dark green. I didn't think to dye the key's until after I rubberized the frame or I would have dyed the frame as well to make the color match.

56k warning.

http://i31.tinypic.com/2hge7pf.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/zk9d.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/atx6h1.jpg

I might take better pictures next week when I'm back in town and have better lighting.


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I did my own.

I rubberized the frame with undercoating and did the keys with a dark green. I didn't think to dye the key's until after I rubberized the frame or I would have dyed the frame as well to make the color match.

56k warning.

http://i31.tinypic.com/2hge7pf.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/zk9d.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/atx6h1.jpg

Nice...verry "Mil-Spec"


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I did my own.

I rubberized the frame with undercoating and did the keys with a dark green. I didn't think to dye the key's until after I rubberized the frame or I would have dyed the frame as well to make the color match.

56k warning.

http://i31.tinypic.com/2hge7pf.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/zk9d.jpg
http://i28.tinypic.com/atx6h1.jpg

I might take better pictures next week when I'm back in town and have better lighting.

Very nice. As said above. it looks like something "Military style"
If you would have known the end result would have turned out like this, you could have added some random brown keys, and sold it on ebay as a custom COD4 Gaming Keyboard. I have an old HP keyboard that you guys are making me want to drag out and dye


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## VCheeZ

Alphabet soup anyone? Check OP for updated pics with the brown added! Turned out great, except for a few F-keys got slightly warped from heat...lesson learned


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## Manyak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VCheeZ*











Alphabet soup anyone? Check OP for updated pics with the brown added! Turned out great, except for a few F-keys got slightly warped from heat...lesson learned










I was waiting for that to happen









No worries though, everyone does it their first time


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## VCheeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Manyak*


I was waiting for that to happen









No worries though, everyone does it their first time










Yea...my new method is to bring to a boil, remove from heat, and wait 60 seconds to drop the keys







I do like the scheme though...








Can't wait for the new Cherry to arrive


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## Deagle50ae

this is hawt


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## Ryanb213

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16823658006

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16823658003


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## Manyak




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## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Manyak* 
I was waiting for that to happen










No worries though, everyone does it their first time









I didnt.


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## squall325

why aren't the characters dyed? doesn't it penetrate black?


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## Cerberus

you should try doing it to your keyboard.

like the faceplate.









Would be cool


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squall325* 
why aren't the characters dyed? doesn't it penetrate black?

Symbols are lazored and/or printed...plus...they are black. Even if the dye penetrated the characters.. you wouldn't see it!


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## Manyak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
Symbols are lazored and/or printed...plus...they are black. Even if the dye penetrated the characters.. you wouldn't see it!

Not always, sometimes the keys are two-shot molded, in which case the letters are solid plastic as well. It's pretty rare to get a keyboard like that, but it's the best quality lettering possible.

Oh, and in some other cases they are dyed on, so they go pretty deep (but have faded edges like lasered keys do, just not as rough).


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Manyak* 
Not always, sometimes the keys are two-shot molded, in which case the letters are solid plastic as well. It's pretty rare to get a keyboard like that, but it's the best quality lettering possible.

Oh, and in some other cases they are dyed on, so they go pretty deep (but have faded edges like lasered keys do, just not as rough).

Good to know


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## VCheeZ

So my cherry boards just shipped today







it will be a few days on the next mod...


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## Conspiracy

zomg that is AMAZING, ima have to get a white keyboard just so i can do this


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## esocid

Nice work, and guide. Reminds me of that Haas dye for easter eggs.
If only my keys weren't black....although my old keyboard is tan. Might have to give this a try.
"+rep"


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## Jrice00

VCheeZ, I used your guide and made my own!

http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...board-dye.html


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## swearzy

that looks so sweet


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jrice00* 
VCheeZ, I used your guide and made my own!

http://www.overclock.net/computer-pe...board-dye.html

Great work! I have added your link to the OP, and encourage anyone who decides to dye....give me a shout and I will link your log in the OP!


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## Jrice00

More than 3 people on OCN need to try this!


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## Manyak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jrice00* 
More than 3 people on OCN need to try this!

I think the problem is that everyone has black keyboards, lol


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## VCheeZ

Expect much more dye work from me starting this weekend


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## VCheeZ

Got the ML g84 4100 Cherry today...


























And After dye...these ML keys are ABS, so with a low melting point (105*) you have to be really careful. I am happy with the browns and pastel blues...but I will be working on the "salmon" esc key to make it more red.


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## Manyak

Very nice









So how do you like the ML switches? And the size of the keys?


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## Chaos Assasson

i wish i could do this but my wasd space and arrow keys are metal plated


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Manyak* 
Very nice









So how do you like the ML switches? And the size of the keys?









ML switches are pretty sweet... I like the short travel ...kind of like really responsive laptop keys...but much better feel than scissor switches. The size of the keys are slightly tiny, but it the layout that is going to take a bit to get used to


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## iandroo888

oOo nice way to make the ol original white keyboards look nice

maybe ill do something like this for a friend's bday hahaha


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iandroo888* 
oOo nice way to make the ol original white keyboards look nice

maybe ill do something like this for a friend's bday hahaha

What board you planning to use?


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## VCheeZ

I re-dyed the red and blue....now I might re-do the browns :/


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## Jrice00

VCheeZ, it looks great! I think you should do another coat or 2 of the brown to make it more rich.

And my main keyboard is black, too :/ I'm glad I was able to find a white one!


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jrice00* 
VCheeZ, it looks great! I think you should do another coat or 2 of the brown to make it more rich.

And my main keyboard is black, too :/ I'm glad I was able to find a white one!

Done.


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## Manyak

Dude:


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## VCheeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Manyak*


Dude:











Lul...exactly the look I was going for


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## Manyak

haha well it worked


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## Afrodisiac

Very nice work, can't believe I didn't see this.

New plan:
Sell G15 V2 for massive profit
Buy a keyboard that isn't a pile of crap
Dye keys
Win!


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## Jrice00

VCheeZ, that is unbelievable! Awesome work!


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## VCheeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Afrodisiac*


Very nice work, can't believe I didn't see this.

New plan:
Sell G15 V2 for massive profit
Buy a keyboard that isn't a pile of crap
Dye keys
Win!


Sounds like a plan...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jrice00*


VCheeZ, that is unbelievable! Awesome work!


Thanks... I will do a proper photo shoot here in a bit


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## Jrice00

nom nom nom


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## VCheeZ

A few more tastes of chocolate goodness










































I think I like the varying shades on some keys like the shift. Kinda looks like woodgrain..


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## mtbhrd

Here's some work with RIT black 15

I was so sick of my halfa** superman theme I had accidentally ordering blue instead of black.

The blue are what I'm dying, there's also some regular real black ones for comparison.




And finally assembled back together.


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## VCheeZ




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## honk_honk

Did you dye the black keys another color or were the escape and WASD keys non-black?


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *honk_honk* 
Did you dye the black keys another color or were the escape and WASD keys non-black?

Non-black 2-shot molded keys from a parts board


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
Non-black 2-shot molded keys from a parts board









Oh that black board with the dyed white keys looks amazing. I like it alot









I picked up the cleaning and dying supplies for my boards today. Will start work on them soon









Started on one of my boards.
One of the pans I bought from Wal-Mart for cleaning.








Poured in undilluted bleach and put in the first part of this disassembled board








Soaking the keys








No Pics of the dyeing process but everybody knows what that looks like
I dyed the keys I use the most for gaming.
Assembled Keyboard.
























Pretty even coloring if you ask me. The arrows look a little darker because they were grey to start with like the F5-F8 keys.


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## Jrice00

Awesome







Good idea, VCheeZ buying parts boards!


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## lemans81

This is probably a stupid question, but the dye doesn't cover the letter/number on each key?


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## Jrice00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lemans81* 
This is probably a stupid question, but the dye doesn't cover the letter/number on each key?

Since the letters/ numbers are black, you cannot see the die that is in the plastic where the letter/ numbers are. It's the same as trying to die an already black key.


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## VCheeZ

Here is catmmm's custom ordered pink/blues:


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## K10

I really want to do this but I can't cook! lol


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## VCheeZ

I wanted to post a better pic of catmmm's board with the right lighting to show how the colors look in person:


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## theCanadian

Hawt!


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
I wanted to post a better pic of catmmm's board with the right lighting to show how the colors look in person:









I was gonna say that I hope the space bar didnt get too deformed so as to hinder operation. She would kill you if she couldnt jump in Counter Strike: Source


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *StretchNuts* 
I was gonna say that I hope the space bar didnt get too deformed so as to hinder operation. She would kill you if she couldnt jump in Counter Strike: Source









Actually, this was the first space bar I have had come out perfect, and now I am more confident in dying them


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## snow cakes

how did u go about dying the keys yellow on that black keyboard?


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## snow cakes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
Actually, this was the first space bar I have had come out perfect, and now I am more confident in dying them









thats y you use scroll wheel to jump


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snow cakes* 
how did u go about dying the keys yellow on that black keyboard?

They were originally white keys from a similar board


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
Actually, this was the first space bar I have had come out perfect, and now I am more confident in dying them









I have learned that several short dunkings work alot better than one long one for the space bar.


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## R00ST3R

My first try,my spacebar turned up like a banana in seconds, actually my first batch of keys all deformed quite a bit. That was in 94F degree water nonetheless. It had to be the cheapest keyboard ever made though. Got me this old compaq keyboard with much thicker plastic for my next run. Hope it turns out well







.


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## xlastshotx

I was thinking of overlaying my board frame with a fake copper/brass "sticker" when it gets here. But I cant find anywhere to buy sheets of overlay?. Can somebody send me a link to a place that sells things like those fake carbon fiber sheets.


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## printerface

This was a great idea indeed, now I know what gift I will present for my friend's b-day.. personalized keyboards will surely hit the spot..


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## Djghost454

Did this today on my old Dell keyboard. Guess I had the temp too high, the keys actually shrunk and once you depress them they squeeze around the housing of the switch and don't come back up...

Sucks because the only other keyboard I have is an 11 dollar Logitech POS laptop scissor switch thing, and I just sold my Lycosa.

Now I need to locate a new keyboard, unfortanatly sold a box of IBM Model M's for $400+ shipping before I knew that they are better than my old Lycosa.

(If you are wondering, it was @ least 100-150 keyboards in there bought from a school auction for 50 bucks)


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## StretchNuts

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xlastshotx* 
I was thinking of overlaying my board frame with a fake copper/brass "sticker" when it gets here. But I cant find anywhere to buy sheets of overlay?. Can somebody send me a link to a place that sells things like those fake carbon fiber sheets.

you can get automotive vinyl, stretch and mold to fit the keyboard, then trim the indented areas out so the keys go back in.


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## Manyak

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Djghost454* 
Now I need to locate a new keyboard, unfortanatly sold a box of IBM Model M's for $400+ shipping before I knew that they are better than my old Lycosa.

(If you are wondering, it was @ least 100-150 keyboards in there bought from a school auction for 50 bucks)


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## xlastshotx

I finished dyeing my keys, I still have some work to do on the board. But I think it looks pretty cool.




























They seem to have come out perfectly, no warping (even the space bar) and a very even color







.


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## K10

I'm lovin the orange







.


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## Steggy

Hey guys, few questions regarding this.

-So does the dye need to actually boil or just heat up? Does heating up just speed up the process?

-And one of the things i'd like to do is leave some of the original coloring. If i were to use...painters tape or something to that effect, and do the dip, would the part i covered with the painters tape remain the original color? would liquid mask help perhaps?


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steggy* 
Hey guys, few questions regarding this.

-So does the dye need to actually boil or just heat up? Does heating up just speed up the process?

-And one of the things i'd like to do is leave some of the original coloring. If i were to use...painters tape or something to that effect, and do the dip, would the part i covered with the painters tape remain the original color? would liquid mask help perhaps?

I would suggest you re-read the first post, as it answers all of your questions. Tape is not going to do you any good at these temps.


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## Steggy

All I saw regarding the boil was "I added a couple of tablespoons of salt and made sure to bring my solution to a boil, which I hear is good to "activate" the dye." which was kind of vague as to whether that was what the bottle said or if it was just a protip from the internet.

So it would seem liquidmask would be the only hope. though i'm not sure it could withstand those temperatures either... :/


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## VCheeZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steggy* 
All I saw regarding the boil was "I added a couple of tablespoons of salt and made sure to bring my solution to a boil, which I hear is good to "activate" the dye." which was kind of vague as to whether that was what the bottle said or if it was just a protip from the internet.

So it would seem liquidmask would be the only hope. though i'm not sure it could withstand those temperatures either... :/

Salt is only needed for fabrics. I had better luck without it. The bottle has absolutely no instructions pertaining to plastics... Bringing the solution to a boil IS a protip, but from me, not the internet


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## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VCheeZ* 
Salt is only needed for fabrics. I had better luck without it. The bottle has absolutely no instructions pertaining to plastics... Bringing the solution to a boil IS a protip, but from me, not the internet










Some fabrics actually are a plastic vcheez. Nylon for example.

But i still have yet to run across an acrylic set of undies. If anyone knows where I can grab a pair, let me know.


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## Intrepid93

Really love this. Except all the pictures of the OPs first post say bandwidth exceeded.


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## VCheeZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Intrepid93*


Really love this. Except all the pictures of the OPs first post say bandwidth exceeded.


Try again


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## lmnop

I haven't read through all pages but I take it this wouldn't work with a pad printed keycap. does it leave any noticeable effects on ink or laser etch?


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## Manyak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lmnop*


I haven't read through all pages but I take it this wouldn't work with a pad printed keycap. does it leave any noticeable effects on ink or laser etch?


The type of printing used is irrelevant. As long as the letters are black then they will stay black.


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## lmnop

I wouldn't try it on pad printed keycaps.


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## Manyak

You have a _really_ dirty keyboard lol.

But yeah on that key you will either see no effect at all or the lettering will end up dyed.

And yes, generally speaking it does work on pad printed keys. Like I said, as long as the text is black nothing will happen. The Cherry ML-4100 VCheez used is pad printed, just take a look at it's pics.


----------



## lmnop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Manyak*


You have a _really_ dirty keyboard lol.

But yeah on that key you will either see no effect at all or the lettering will end up dyed.


ripster took that picture. pad printed is usually used on cheaper keyboards. my Microsoft Comfort Curve 3000 is pad printed and took only a couple weeks to reveal the "decal"

here is a picture comparing different printing styles.

pad printed, laser etched, sub-dye and double shot.


----------



## GekzOverlord

Wow!, i think ill try this for a laugh


----------



## Manyak

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lmnop*


ripster took that picture. pad printed is usually used on cheaper keyboards. my Microsoft Comfort Curve 3000 is pad printed and took only a couple weeks to reveal the "decal"


lol, well _he's_ got a dirty keyboard then









But yeah, like I edited into the last post after you quoted, the Cherry ML-4100 is pad printed and there should be some pics of it somewhere in this thread. You can see that it works just fine.


----------



## lmnop

if they are pad printed the rit dye reveals. looks laser etched. I don't think I would try it on pad printed keycaps.


----------



## Manyak

I've got one too and it's definitely pad printed. And now that I'm paying attention, these actually look silk screened. You can tell because they are raised off of the keycap's surface. That only happens with pad printing and silk screening, and the difference between the two should be obvious.

Ugh, stupid Cherry. I hate how they just switch printing types even on the same model board.


----------



## olli3

Great idea to dye keys! Defiantly going to give this a try soon. Only thing is how can I colour the rest of the keyboard? I'm thinking masking off the key switches and whatever else then using some kind of spray paint and then a clear lacquer over the top, would look nice and shiny







anyone else tried that? Or have another way of doing it? Id rather not pull the thing apart in order to dye it, think it would be a bit hard given the size of it anyway.


----------



## drjoey1500

Hm, I started trying this on an old keyboard and the keys keep coming out spotted. little dots all over it that are darker than the rest. Is that just the plastic? I don't want to do it to my at101w's if it will come out like that :/

I'll probably try a different keyboard to see if it works.


----------



## drjoey1500

...I tried it on another keyboard and it seemed fine, I guess it just depends on the keys. I'll give it a try on one of my dells. I'll post pics when it's done.

bump for a good thread.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Manyak* 
You have a _really_ dirty keyboard lol.

But yeah on that key you will either see no effect at all or the lettering will end up dyed.

And yes, generally speaking it does work on pad printed keys. Like I said, as long as the text is black nothing will happen. The Cherry ML-4100 VCheez used is pad printed, just take a look at it's pics.

Actually, the ML-4100 is not pad printed (Also Known As G84-4100). At least not the one I have.


----------



## drjoey1500

Oh my gosh. My keyboard really hates the dye. It takes me a million times for it to work. I finally got my wasd keys red, and no joke it probably took 10 times following the guide exactly (15 minutes). It helped a little to use very concentrated dye. Before each 15 minutes would make it a little bit more pink. It worked more with dye/water that was probably 1/1 or 1/2. The spacebar was fine for many many times until the LAST one I do, and it warps







. It could use one more maybe, but still. Now I have to figure out a way to fix it so it actually comes up after I press it down.


----------



## Phaedrus2129

I'd do it to my Model M, but it feels... wrong. I know! I'll get another, cheaper, newer Model M and dye _its_ keys and put them on mine.









How do Model M keys react to this stuff, especially the gray ones?


----------



## theCanadian

Pro tip for everyone here. Don't try and dye your keys with the water still on the heat. Take it off the heat and let the water cool for about 1 - 2 minutes before you dye. Then reheat the water and repeat. I know it doesn't take as well, but you won't warp your keys.

I figure taking an hour and 4 -5 dips is better than ruining your keyboard.

I've been doing this for about 5 years.


----------



## drjoey1500

I finally finished. The black dye worked MUCH better than the red. I dyed the red at least 4-5 times, the black two. It did come out a little brownish. I'm really surprised the grey and white keys came out the same with the black dye. The esc key is a little darker red than the other red ones.

You can see my messed up spacebar too. Ah well, nothing a heat gun and a dremel couldn't fix. It's not warped, is _ergonomic_.


----------



## acceL

So tempted to try this out! There's no stove in my campus hall and I don't have the cash right now to to get a hot plate, so I'll find a old pos keyboard over spring break and post pics.


----------



## XMAGUSX

Has anybody done this on a Saitek Eclipse? I'd like to dye some of the keys red, but I don't know how it'll look on the silver paint (or whatever it is) on the keys - it's the model that doesn't use the cheap paint that wears out quickly (I've heard some have that problem, but mine is over 2 years old with no signs of age). Also, is rit dye opaque, or will it cover the clear lettering of the keys and not allow the backlighting though?

And, about rit dye in general (I don't know if anybody has mentioned/asked this) - does it stain/dye the pan you use to heat it up (does it depend on the pan material)?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XMAGUSX* 
Has anybody done this on a Saitek Eclipse? I'd like to dye some of the keys red, but I don't know how it'll look on the silver paint (or whatever it is) on the keys - it's the model that doesn't use the cheap paint that wears out quickly (I've heard some have that problem, but mine is over 2 years old with no signs of age). Also, is rit dye opaque, or will it cover the clear lettering of the keys and not allow the backlighting though?

And, about rit dye in general (I don't know if anybody has mentioned/asked this) - does it stain/dye the pan you use to heat it up (does it depend on the pan material)?

You'd probably have to dye it somewhat dark (like my esc key) in order for the red to cover up the silver. I'm not sure how the clear part of the key will be affected. It may tint it a little, I'm not sure.

It won't dye the pan, but it will leave some color behind temporarily. You can just scrub what's left off with a paper towel or something. I'd recommend using an old pot or something you won't be using for cooking just to be safe.

I bought a saucepan at salvation army for $2. Well worth not worrying about messing up a cooking pan. It still has a little red and black in some parts, but that will eventually come out I think.


----------



## XMAGUSX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
You'd probably have to dye it somewhat dark (like my esc key) in order for the red to cover up the silver. I'm not sure how the clear part of the key will be affected. It may tint it a little, I'm not sure.

It won't dye the pan, but it will leave some color behind temporarily. You can just scrub what's left off with a paper towel or something. I'd recommend using an old pot or something you won't be using for cooking just to be safe.

I bought a saucepan at salvation army for $2. Well worth not worrying about messing up a cooking pan. It still has a little red and black in some parts, but that will eventually come out I think.

Okay, I wasn't sure how thick/opaque the dye would be, so as long as some light still shines through, it's fine. I guess I'll just get some dark red dye, and hope it doesn't turn out _too_ dark or looking brown...

Also, I checked my local Walmart, and couldn't find the Rit dye...is it a regional product or something (I'm in Illinois)? Should I check another Walmart in the area?


----------



## 3dfxvoodoo

I'll give this a try on my OLD Packard bell keyboard which was made back in 1994, and which i still use. lets hope i goes well, I'll post pic's when I'm done


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XMAGUSX* 
Okay, I wasn't sure how thick/opaque the dye would be, so as long as some light still shines through, it's fine. I guess I'll just get some dark red dye, and hope it doesn't turn out _too_ dark or looking brown...

Also, I checked my local Walmart, and couldn't find the Rit dye...is it a regional product or something (I'm in Illinois)? Should I check another Walmart in the area?

I'd suggest trying a key out of the way first just in case it does dye the clear part.

I found some at joann's. It's a scary place, but I think it was worth it lol.


----------



## theCanadian

Every single walgreens i have ever been in has RIT dye. I know Lowes Foods carries it.

You'll probably find it in a lot of art stores as it's intended use is to dye clothes.


----------



## N_Scorpion

Followed your guide on my once dreadful Microsoft mouse.








I just used the plain RIT Black liquid dye, and it turned out great. It finally matches everything.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N_Scorpion* 
Followed your guide on my once dreadful Microsoft mouse.

I just used the plain RIT Black liquid dye, and it turned out great. It finally matches everything.









Tight bro. I've been motivated to do this on old trackball. I gotta get some die first though. I'm thinking black or a dark red.

Logitec TrackMan Marble+


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

http://www.ritdye.com/ColoRit_Color_...Guide.96.lasso

I'm still trying to find this stuff locally. Neither the local walgreens or walmart carry it...


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
http://www.ritdye.com/ColoRit_Color_...Guide.96.lasso

I'm still trying to find this stuff locally. Neither the local walgreens or walmart carry it...

I found some at joanns.


----------



## Loune

Would it be possible to take a black keyboard with white letters and dip just the tops into a solution or red dye and only have the white letters get dyed; Or would the black become dyed as well even with short repeated exposures?


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Loune* 
Would it be possible to take a black keyboard with white letters and dip just the tops into a solution or red dye and only have the white letters get dyed; Or would the black become dyed as well even with short repeated exposures?

You really wouldn't have to concern yourself with the black being changed.


----------



## Loune

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice* 
You really wouldn't have to concern yourself with the black being changed.

I figure as long as the color you are dying something too is lighter in color than what you are dying it probably won't dye it. But the parts that are lighter than the dye will change color.


----------



## DoubleX

so you paint the words back to the key again?


----------



## Loune

No, the keys are black and the letters are white. I'm going to dip the surface of the keys repeatedly into a solution of blue rit dye to dye the white letters only. I was asking if the black would discolor in any way or not because it is significantly darker than the dye.


----------



## N2Gaming

How do the fingers look after using the died keys??? LOL


----------



## SpookedJunglist

Anyone test the typical UV colors under a black light? I may mod one of my old clicky boards with this. All my past attempts to paint keyboards have been fail. This doesn't fade over time right?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
How do the fingers look after using the died keys??? LOL

Actually, I've worn the dye most of the way off my keys twice (my keys hate the dye) and there is only a little discoloration on my fingers, but that's due to the fungus and that's a whole different matter.

(the last part is sarcasm. I have actually worn the dye off my keys and no, it doesn't come off on your fingers : P )


----------



## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
(the last part is sarcasm. I have actually worn the dye off my keys and no, it doesn't come off on your fingers : P )

yeah OK


----------



## ricercar

I've found the most vibrant colors are created using the first 20 minutes of a given dye mix. For example,
(1) Mix dye package A with steaming (not boiling) water
(2) soak 20 minutes in mix A
(3) Mix dye package B with steaming (not boiling) water
(4) soak 20 minutes in mix B

Bumble-bee


----------



## mbudden

I was wondering how you dye black keys.
I have a Dell keyboard I'd like to do.
But the keys are black.

Just want to do a few keys.
ESC, WASD, Enter, Space and arrows.


----------



## godofdeath

what happens if you dye the ocn key?

nvm i think it only works on white?


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *godofdeath;11606350*
> what happens if you dye the ocn key?
> 
> nvm i think it only works on white?


The OCN logo will change to the color of the dye.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11599762*
> I was wondering how you dye black keys.
> I have a Dell keyboard I'd like to do.
> But the keys are black.
> 
> Just want to do a few keys.
> ESC, WASD, Enter, Space and arrows.


bump...


----------



## RonindeBeatrice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;11657021*
> bump...


It's not going to work brother.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonindeBeatrice;11657920*
> It's not going to work brother.


Sighh...








Thanks


----------



## Hydraulic

Thanks for the help guys!

You all gave me the incentive to try this with an old Gateway2000 keyboard. Its not that pretty, but I am working on it now. I just finished dying the keys and its not that pretty, but the contrast should look nice. I will post pics in the next few days once I complete everything.


----------



## Hydraulic

I don't mind it. The keys did not take the color very well, which was disappointing, but the paint looks good. I also sleeved the wire because I had some left over. It looks alot more attractive than what it did look like. It was so dirty that when I pulled off the keys, I also pulled off a sheet of dirt and hair from in between them. It also had all sorts of other goop inside.

This is a stock image of the keyboard, I forgot to take a pic of before









And this is the way it is now.









I am not sure what I will do with it though, I enjoy my backlit keyboard too much.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydraulic;12832279*
> I don't mind it. The keys did not take the color very well, which was disappointing, but the paint looks good. I also sleeved the wire because I had some left over. It looks alot more attractive than what it did look like. It was so dirty that when I pulled off the keys, I also pulled off a sheet of dirt and hair from in between them. It also had all sorts of other goop inside.
> 
> This is a stock image of the keyboard, I forgot to take a pic of before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the way it is now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure what I will do with it though, I enjoy my backlit keyboard too much.


Did you stir the keys while dying? And they were very clean before (soapy water and/or rubbing alcohol)?

If you did it was probably the plastic. Some keys naturally come out uneven.


----------



## Hydraulic

I soaked and cleaned with soapy water. And I did stir them as I 'cooked' them. I ended up doing 4 20 min baths


----------



## TotalRand

Hey guys i was wondering whether or not this dying guide would work on my Logitech mx518 mouse? Has anyone tried the dye on a mouse?


----------



## turtleslikejohn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TotalRand;13364726*
> Hey guys i was wondering whether or not this dying guide would work on my Logitech mx518 mouse? Has anyone tried the dye on a mouse?


Not sure if serious.. You should never soak a mouse in ANYTHING, especially dyes in this case.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turtleslikejohn;13374348*
> Not sure if serious.. You should never soak a mouse in ANYTHING, especially dyes in this case.


I think you're missing the point. I'm sure he'd disassemble the mouse and dye just the plastic bits.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TotalRand;13364726*
> Hey guys i was wondering whether or not this dying guide would work on my Logitech mx518 mouse? Has anyone tried the dye on a mouse?


Unless your mouse is white, it probably won't work well.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000;13376266*
> Unless your mouse is white, it probably won't work well.


Yup. You have to take into account the original color. Since the mx518 is greyish it'll probably end up a blotchy dark color. I guess it might work if you wanted to dye it black, but even then I'd be concerned about the plastic warping. Don't bother trying anything but a dark color.


----------



## iJustin

If your keycaps are black with white lettering, will black RIT dye make it completely black?


----------



## godofdeath

anyone do a beige look?


----------



## B757

About the mouse, it'll probably warp the plastic.


----------



## wompwomp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iJustin;13400175*
> If your keycaps are black with white lettering, will black RIT dye make it completely black?


was wondering this too. I want to know if it'll be a different shade of black. I like the look of all black keyboards but I don't want like a das blank keyboard because I still occasionally look at my keyboard.


----------



## B757

Depends on how they're printed. It's definitely not going to work for silkscreened/pad printed caps.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp;13593668*
> was wondering this too. I want to know if it'll be a different shade of black. I like the look of all black keyboards but I don't want like a das blank keyboard because I still occasionally look at my keyboard.


Like B757 said it depends on what kind of keycaps they are. I'd only try it on double shots but it may work on lasered too.

The color depends on how long you dye it for. It would be very hard to get it to be the exact same color as the rest of the key.

Or you could just man up and use blanks







.


----------



## thion262

Hi,
would there be a way to dye the Caps with Phosphorescence Pigments?
Something like this?
It usually is used with Acryl Colors, but could it work if combined with a white dye?

Something like this would be very cool because there aren't many good keyboards with backlit...

Greets,
Thion


----------



## Crazy9000

Recently there have been more and more choices on the backlit keyboard front, so you may want to look into those first.

As for if that dye would work, the only way to really find out is give it a try. Use a key you don't care about from some old keyboard to test it.


----------



## gzubka

i use to play lacrosse ad alot of us dye our lacrosse heads you guys should look into the work they have done i think it will give you some cool ideas.


----------



## unplugged5150

Been reading this thread with great interest for a few months now. I'm still trying to find some time to dye my keys. But, I ordered a red escape key from WASD keyboards, and replaced the boring old green LED's with High Brightness Blue LEDs. Really nice look on the old gateway anykey.


----------



## VW_TDI_02

Has anyone tried this with black keys? I currently have a Razer Black Widow and was interested in dying a few of these keys. I might just end up buying new key caps but this is still a very interesting possibility but I haven't seen anyone try it with black keys.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VW_TDI_02*
> 
> Has anyone tried this with black keys? I currently have a Razer Black Widow and was interested in dying a few of these keys. I might just end up buying new key caps but this is still a very interesting possibility but I haven't seen anyone try it with black keys.


You can only dye the keys darker than they already are. It may work for the white lettering on some keyboards depending on the lettering type.

If you want the keys lighter, you'll probably have to use paint which will eventually wear off.


----------



## VW_TDI_02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> You can only dye the keys darker than they already are. It may work for the white lettering on some keyboards depending on the lettering type.
> If you want the keys lighter, you'll probably have to use paint which will eventually wear off.


Looks like I'll just have to buy new keys then. Thanks.


----------



## DaXxJaPxX

i just dyed a set dark green, it turned brown within 10 minutes, nearly black by 30. did some in a light blue, turned beige in 20 minutes, and after an hour of simmering it hasn't picked up the blue. looooovely


----------



## stratmaster458

Anyone dye keys with the black RIT Dye? I wanna know if the symbols on the keys will be visible at all after dying them black. If they are 100% solid where can I get decals or stickers for white symbols/letters?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratmaster458*
> 
> Anyone dye keys with the black RIT Dye? I wanna know if the symbols on the keys will be visible at all after dying them black. If they are 100% solid where can I get decals or stickers for white symbols/letters?


I did. It's hard to tell from those pics but you can still see the lettering slightly, although it's kind of hard. In the correct light/angle you can see them. It may work out different depending on the keyboard though, the letters on that keyboard were kind of grayish anyway and they were laser etched. Also keep in mind that keyboard didn't like the dye too well. It started to wear off after a while. Now that keyboard looks kind of light redish.

Anyway, I'm sure they would've looked better if I dyed them a couple more times, but IIRC I stopped since I could still see the key lettering if I needed too.

My advice is go for it. Right now I have a leopold with blank keys and I love it. You'll get used to not having lettering after a little bit and IMO it's worth it for the look of a solid keyboard.
Sometimes I mess up on the numbers, but that is mostly because it's tenkeyless and I usually use that instead of the normal numbers. Worst case use a typing instruction program for a few days to learn the keys you don't know







.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

I tried to dye some realforce topre keycaps and couldn't get the dye to stick. QQ

I want a red number row.


----------



## stratmaster458

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> I did. It's hard to tell from those pics but you can still see the lettering slightly, although it's kind of hard. In the correct light/angle you can see them. It may work out different depending on the keyboard though, the letters on that keyboard were kind of grayish anyway and they were laser etched. Also keep in mind that keyboard didn't like the dye too well. It started to wear off after a while. Now that keyboard looks kind of light redish.
> Anyway, I'm sure they would've looked better if I dyed them a couple more times, but IIRC I stopped since I could still see the key lettering if I needed too.
> My advice is go for it. Right now I have a leopold with blank keys and I love it. You'll get used to not having lettering after a little bit and IMO it's worth it for the look of a solid keyboard.
> Sometimes I mess up on the numbers, but that is mostly because it's tenkeyless and I usually use that instead of the normal numbers. Worst case use a typing instruction program for a few days to learn the keys you don't know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I dyed today, my blacks came out solid black used a whole pack of RIT, they are deep solid black. My yellow keys came out great, got that vintage phone company keyboard look to them. My blue keys came out brown, very disappointed, now I need to find new keys or find another Apple Extended Keyboard II to steal them from.

I am still working on the red keys but the RIT Dye won't stick into them its frustrating, I tried the powder and the liquid versions! That being said have any of you experienced fading?


----------



## barkinos98

is this possible with blackwidow's? i got one cheap, for $50, and im either going to get custom keycaps and possibly backlight it or just get keycaps and look nice


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratmaster458*
> 
> I dyed today, my blacks came out solid black used a whole pack of RIT, they are deep solid black. My yellow keys came out great, got that vintage phone company keyboard look to them. My blue keys came out brown, very disappointed, now I need to find new keys or find another Apple Extended Keyboard II to steal them from.
> I am still working on the red keys but the RIT Dye won't stick into them its frustrating, I tried the powder and the liquid versions! That being said have any of you experienced fading?


Idk if I mentioned this, but you have to take the original color into account when you're dying. Of course that still doesn't explain why off white + blue = brown







.

Certain plastics don't like the dye. I think most of them work fine, but it wears off the dell at101w keys fairly easily. Just rinsing them in rubbing alcohol after dying would take most of the dye out
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> is this possible with blackwidow's? i got one cheap, for $50, and im either going to get custom keycaps and possibly backlight it or just get keycaps and look nice


Isn't the blackwidow already black?















Like I said, the original color has to be taken into account, so idk how well dying black keys will work. I believe you can only dye them darker than the original color.

If you don't mind blank keys there's also a method using vinyl dye paint which works pretty well. It sticks much better than normal paint, I'll find a link on it if you're interested.


----------



## jakemfbacon

OK so i don't know what i am doing wrong... I have been reboiling the dye and dying the keys for like the past 3 hours and they will just not get very dark. I am using PBT keycaps.

I know it is the liquid dye but that can't be the problem can it? Other people have used the liquid with success.
here are some pics:

THe esc key is just some nail polish from my gf I tried lol... not sure if I like it enough to do the wasd keys yet.


----------



## jakemfbacon

hmm ok so I actually got them to dye. Just had to keep the water at a boil. I was afraid they would melt and the instructions I was following said to let it boil then take it off with the keycaps in. Maybe it wasn't for pbt i don't know.
Here are my results although still not quite the same color lol. I might try mixing that color with the teal rit. Suggestions?


----------



## imsto

very nice. I like the dark green keys.


----------



## xXSebaSXx

I've seen videos of people using solvent dyes to stain wires and other plastic stuff. Might check that out to see if it works better.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXSebaSXx*
> 
> I've seen videos of people using solvent dyes to stain wires and other plastic stuff. Might check that out to see if it works better.


Looks like it ends up uneven. Maybe if the keys were sprayed with it, but I'm not sure how well that would work.


----------



## drjoey1500

I thought I posted this, but I guess not. If you don't care about keeping the letters, vinyl dye paint is a very good option. I used these guides when I was repainting my WASD on my old keyboard.








I posted this in another thread about painting fans a while ago.
Quote:


> Vinyl dye paint. Many many thin coats. Actually not sure if that would work going black to white (I think it should work).
> 
> That's what I always recommend for painting anything plastic that needs the paint to stick to it thumb.gif. Krylon fusion is ok, but it goes on thicker and may chip eventually. The thin dye paint is better since you want to add as little weight as possible to the fan.
> 
> Prep by wiping the plastic down with isopropyl alcohol (wear disposable gloves) to remove grease and dirt from the fan. Your hand leaves grease on the fan, so wipe it down and don't touch it without gloves before painting.
> 
> I've used that method to paint the WASD on my old keyboard and it took months to almost a year for my sweaty fingers to wear it down. By that I mean in the right light you could make out the shape of the letter on the key. IIRC I only used about 4 coats. If I would've put a clear coat on it it probably would've lasted years.
> 
> I've also seen this method used to paint fans in case mods. The one I remember, the dude was painting noctua's red.


A little off topic, but it's a good alternative if RIT dye does not work for you.


----------



## Jakestax

how'd you do that cable?


----------



## birkirmar

I spent 5 hours trying to dye a few caps on an old keyboard... Used a whole package of red Rit dye and soaked them about 12 times for 15-20 minutes each time but they didn't change color at all. Maybe a little pink-ish... What I did was get 300ml of water, a tablespoon of salt and a whole pack of dye in powder form and let it start boiling and then I took it off the stove and soaked the caps for about 15 minutes. After trying that 5 times without any success I added some vinegar and repeated the process again and again and again but nothing... What did I do wrong?


----------



## tatmMRKIV

I used Duplicolor looks nice.. still need to get ahold of indigo or blue so far black case and spacebar red WASD Esc and All f keys are silver/dark grey


----------



## Deathhound

*My journey through the key dying process:*

First off, here is my current setup. It's not my primary console but it works good for backups and storage.


Here is my old mechanical spring keyboard, I want to paint the frame black and dye the keys red.


The logo, Leading Edge Keyboards.


The serial number, etc.


Here's the spring under the keys.


Taking it apart. First step, unscrewing the frame.


Not sure what this is, ground?


Second step, unscrewing the keyboard from the frame.


I also want to change the LED's to red.


Manufactured: May 1, 1994.


Just a reference.


The orientation of the mechanical key things.


Almost all the keys out.


All the keys out.


The cleaning process.


TIME TO DYE!










****.


The reason this happened was because I was using a gas stove, not an electrical stove -_-

better luck next time, eh


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## tatmMRKIV

wow...

shoulda used paint.

really only wears off with heavy gaming use and if you prep right i am sure it works better

I have since upgraded
I dropped some water on my model m and it died


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## kishagi

So I have just finished my first dyeing adventure!!

I wanted to dye my keycaps "Gelosia Orange" according to Rit Studio's Pantone Seasonal Colors: Spring 2014 catalog thingy; this colour:


Unfortunately my keys came out as a darker salmon pink kind of colour after about 5-6 15 minute baths... Heres the final result:



So my questions are:
- Is it possible to achieve orange if I continue with a yellow dye?
- What colour looks good with this colour that I could use to paint the keyboard top cover plate thing?

Thanks for your help!


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## Jixr

should have tested with the rest of the keys from that keyset that you're not using.

I think adding yellow will just make a brown color.


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