# ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i Thread



## dpawl31

*ASUS P5N-E SLI w/ NVIDIA 650i Chipset*
*POST # 1:* (This post) - Basic Overview
*POST # 2:* Qualified Vendor List + User-Proven Compatible Components
*POST # 3:* *Zippit's Pencil Mod Guide* + Tips and Hints + OCN Member P5N-E Overclocks
*POST # 4 and on:* Hundreds of pages of P5N-E owners, sharing all they know!

This thread is a constant work in progress of people who own and love their P5N-E's.
I started this thread in January of 2007 and it has, uh, grown








When I bought the board, nobody knew of it, or it's chipset.
Through the 'years' we have really pushed it to it's limits, which are great for the cost of the board.
It is no longer sold, since much better boards have come to be with new chipset and manuf. technologies.
But for all you folks out there still running the P5N-E, this is _the thread for you!_
I wouldn't doubt it if hundreds of people have received the help they needed in this thread alone.
Anyway, welcome. Enjoy reading for days, because it's going to take that long








*Remember to REP+ anyone that helps you with your board problems/questions!**(Within TOS guidelines!)*

MANUF. WEBSITE SPECS. (Also see below)
TECHAge Review <--- Explains memory issues, which were fixed in 2nd BIOS update. (New boards come with even NEWER BIOS versions.)
AnandTech Review
H Enthusiast Review <--- Proves Dual 8800GTX is not a problem for SLI on this board. (Also see TechSpot Review Below, Page 4)
AnandTech 650i vs 680i <--- Points out the minor differences. Minor for most, extreme hardcore users maybe not so minor.
TECHSPOT.Com <--- Reviews against DS3/P5N32-E/680i.
*ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i First release at roughly ~$150
(Was $127 + S&H @ The Egg, 3.22.07)
Hard to find being sold now.*

*Key Things to Note*

FSB/Memory can be change manually, unlinked and completely independant.
Full range of Memory timing controls.
500+ FSB proven; generally hits over 450FSB without issue.
*Quads* usually max out ~350FSB on this board.
The board is finicky about RAM. (Mostly older BIOS versions.)Please ask here before you buy, or use from Manuf. Recc. list.
Northbridge runs pretty hot. If overclocking at _all_, at least reseat NB heatsink with AS5 or better. Moderate overclocking (FSB 400+) will need aftermarket cooling, even if only a better passive sink. Heavy overclocking will need active cooling on the NB.
Some of the boards came without a SB heatsink. A basic passive cooler will work fine here. Newer boards came with a SB sink, but reseating with AS5 is a good idea. *Careful with large GPU's* about which SB heatsink you use! Check what other users have used here and compare.
_*Board Specifications*_

_Quote:_

_CPU LGA775 Socket IntelÂ® Quad-Core/CoreTM Extreme/Pentium D /Pentium 4/Celeron CPU processors_
_Compatible with IntelÂ® 06/05A/05B processors_
_IntelÂ® EIST/EM64T/Hyper-Threading Technology/C1E/ TM1/TM2_

_Chipset NVIDIA nForceÂ® 650i SLI TM_
_Front Side Bus **1333/1066/800/533MHz_
_(** available when CPUs are ready for 1333MHz FSB)_
_Memory Dual channel memory architecture_
_4 x 240-pin DIMM sockets support up to 8GB DDR2 800/667/533_
_non-ECC/ Unbuffered memory_
_Expansion Slots 2 x PCI Express x16_
_- Single VGA mode: x16 (Default)_
_- SLI mode: x8, x8_
_1 x PCI Express x1_
_2 x PCI (PCI 2.2)_

_Storage - 2 x Ultra DMA 133/100/66/33_
_- 4 x Serial ATA 3.0 Gb/s_
_- Support RAID0, 1, 0+1, 5, and JBOD_
_- 1 x External Serial ATA 3.0 Gb/s (SATA On-the-Go)_
_LAN Gigabit LAN featuring AI Net2_
_Marvell 88E1116 PHY_

_Audio Realtek ALC883 6-channel CODEC_
_Audio Sensing and Enumeration Technology_
_Multi-Streaming_
_1 X Coaxial S/PDIF out ports on back I/O_

_IEEE 1394 Supports 2 IEEE 1394a connector onboard (1 in back + 1 on board)_
_USB Supports up 8 USB2.0 ports_
_Overclocking Features - AI Overclocking (intelligent CPU frequency tuner)_
_- ASUS CPU Lock Free_
_- Precision Tweaker:_
_- vCore: Adjustable CPU voltage at 6.25mv increment_
_max. 1.6V_
_- vChip: 4-step Chip voltage control_
_adjust Chip voltage max. 0.55V_
_- vDIMM: 8-step DRAM voltage control_
_adjust DRAM voltage max. 0.6V_
_- SFS (Stepless Frequency Selection)_
_- FSB tuning from 200MHz up to 750MHz at 1MHz increment_
_- PCI Express frequency tuning from 100MHz up to 131MHz at 1MHz increment_
_- CPU Multiplier_
_- ASUS C.P.R.(CPU Parameter Recall)_

_Special Features ASUS Q-Connector_
_ASUS O.C. Profile_
_ASUS Fanless Design_
_ASUS PC Probe2_
_ASUS Q-Fan2_
_ASUS MyLogo2_
_ASUS Update_
_BIOS 4 Mb Flash ROM, AWARD BIOS, PnP, DMI2.0, WfM2.0, SM BIOS 2.3_
_ASUS EZ Flash 2,ASUS CrashFree BIOS 2_
_Manageability WfM 2.0, DMI 2.0 , WOR by Ring ,_
_WOL/WOR by PME, WO USB/KB/MS, PXE, RPL & AI Net2_
_Internal I/O Connectors 1 x 24-pin ATX Power connector_
_1 x 4-pin ATX 12V Power connector_
_1 x Chassis Intrusion_
_1 x CPU + 2 Chassis FAN connectors_
_1 x Floppy disk drive connector_
_1 x CD audio in connector_
_1 x 1394a connector_
_2 x USB connector supports additional 4 USB ports_
_1 x Front panel connector (AAFP)_
_System panel connector_
_1 x COM Port connector_
_1 x S/PDIF out connector_
_Back Panel I/O Ports 1 x Parallel port_
_1 x 1394a connector_
_1 x S/PDIF Out port (Coaxial)_
_1 x PS/2 Keyboard port (purple)_
_1 x PS/2 Mouse port (green)_
_1 x LAN(RJ-45) port_
_4 x USB 2.0/1.1 port_
_1 x External SATA_
_6-Channel Audio I/O port_
_Accessories 1 x SLI bridge_
_1 x 2-in-1 ASUS Q-Connector Kit (Retail version only)_
_1 x UltraDMA 133/100/66 cable_
_1 x FDDe cable_
_2 x SATA cables_
_2 x SATA power cable_
_1 x 2-port USB2.0 module_
_1 x I/O Shield_
_User's manual_
_Support CD Drivers_
_ASUS Update_
_Anti-virus software (OEM version)_
_ASUS PC Probe II_
_NVIDIA RIS (Remote Installation Service) application_
_Form Factor ATX Form Factor, 12â€x 9â€(30.5cm x 22.9cm)_

*Above SPECS from ASUS.COM on 3/23/07*


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## dpawl31

*WORK IN PROGRESS -*
*Compiling list of compatible: CPU, NB and SB heatsinks, RAM that is not on QVL, and mods required to use certain heatsinks.*
Asus Tek Qualified Vendor List - RAM from DDR2-533 ~ DDR2-800

*NON COMPATIBLE COMPONENTS:*
*OCZ Platinum Revision 1* *RAM
XP-90 CPU Cooler* (Even with LGA 775 Kit)*
Sycthe Infinity*

*Compatible RAM (Not on QVL above- User Tested)*
*DDR2-800*
*OCZ Gold 2x512MB Kit* (OCZ2G8001GK)*
OCZ Gold 2x1GB Kit* *
OCZ Platinum REVISION 2 2x1GB Kit
G.Skill 2x1GB Kit* (F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ)*
G.Skill 2x1GB Kit* (F2-6400PHU2-2GBNR) *G.Skill 2x1GB Kit* (F2-6400PHU2-2GBHZ)
*Geil Ultra Series 2x1GB Kit
Crucial Ballistix 2x1GB Kit
Crucial Ballistix Tracers 2x1GB Kit
Corsair XMS2 Twin2X 2x1GB Kit
Patriot Extreme Performance 2X1GB Kit* (PDC22G6400LLK)
*DDR2-667*
*Geil Value 2x1024MB*
*DDR2-665*
*Corsair XMS2 Twin2X 2x512MB Kit*

*Compatible CPU Heatsinks (Guranteed fitment with stock NB heatsink, not with aftermarket NB HS!)*
*Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro* (Requires slight trimming of plastic on NB side of fan, w/ stock P5N-E NB heatsink)
*Zalman 9500
* *Zalman 9700*
*Tuniq Tower 120* (Tight fit, be careful of bending/breaking capacitors)
*Ultra-90*
*Ultra-120*
*Noctua NH-U12*
*ThermalTake Silent Tower* (Fan must be directed away from exp. slots)
*Thermalright SI-128*
*OCZ Vendetta 2*
*Scythe Ninja Plus* (must lift fan edge a bit to clear yellow dimm)
*Thermalright Ultima 90*
*Thermaltake Big Typhoon*
*Zerotherm FZ-120*

*Compatible Northbridge Heatsinks*
*Thermalright HR-05-SLI*
*Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II* (CL-C0034)
*Xigmatek S1283*
*Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro*

*Compatible Southbridge Heatsinks (Non-SLI; does not work with SLI!)*
*Thermalright HR-05-SLI*
*Zalman ZM-NB47J*
*Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II* (CL-C0034)
*Cooler Master Blue Ice*

*Compatible Southbridge Heatsinks (SLI capable)*
*Thermalright HR-05-SLI w/o FAN*
*Coolermaster Blue Ice* (without fan)


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## dpawl31

*ZIPPIT's PENCIL MOD GUIDE!*
*Things needed:*
1 pencil
1 P5N-e SLI
1 common sence

*FAQ:*
What is vDroop? vDroop is the drop in vCore voltage when the CPU is under load.
Why do I need a pencil mod? You will need a pencil mod when your vDroop is to much and causes a unstable overclock.
How can I check my vDroop? Get a program like CPU-z, SpeedFan or ASUS probe II and check your idle vCore. Then put your CPU under load with a program like Prime95, ORTHOS or InterBurnTest. The difference between the two voltages is your vDroop.
I applied the pencil mod but I still have a 0.01v~0.03v vDroop, how come its not helping? Settle with that, most people don't eliminate it completely.
Does the pencil mod void my warranty? It does. But if your need to RMA your board you can rub off the pencil residue with your finger and they wont notice it.
Does the pencil mod degrade my board over time? No. I have it for over 2 years and its still alive and kicking since I bought it.

*How to do it:*

Turn your PC off.
Find this transistor to the left to your RAM slots.
Take your pencil and rub it over the transistor a few times.
Boot into windows and check your vDroop.
Not happy? Go back to step one.
Happy? well... thats it you are done!
*

TIPS AND HINTS*
Any help would be appreciated: Please PM dpawl31 (me!) with any suggestions!
(Overclocking options can be found under JUMPERFREE Configuration-->MANUAL)
Overclocking the P5N-E Guide by TriBeCa


*Firstly - Talk to people here! Go to the last page, introduce yourself, and we'll get you started.*
If you haven't already, check your BIOS and make sure you are running 03** series bios or higher. 0202 was first release and VERY flaky.
Enter RAM timings and voltage manually. Helps stability.
Disable all features not neccessary, ie firewire, if you run all SATA drives, disable IDE channels... etc.
Run Orthos or OCCT for 6+ hours at all stock settings to test for stabilty at stock, to make sure everything is OK at the norm. This will help you to not blame your OC for stability problems, such as forgetting to set your RAM timings and having the auto timings cause a failed OC.
FSB and RAM are already finalized values. Intel chips are QUAD pumped (QDR) and RAM is DDR. For example, if you have an 800FSB rated chip, your REAL FSB is 200Mhz (What CPUZ will display) but will display as 800FSB in BIOS. Same with RAM, but it is DUAL, so DDR2-800 RAM will display as 800 in BIOS, but 400Mhz in CPUZ.
When overclocking, run a 1:1 divider for stability. This can be achieved by using UNLINKED mode and MANUALLY entering 1:1 values, ie 1000FSB and 500DDR, or you can choose LINKED-->SYNC Mode to run a 1:1 divider.
AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.
To find your MAX CPU overclock without overclocking RAM, to eliminate it as the cause of a failed overclock, use full UNLINKED mode, to allow you to manually set your RAM to its full speed without overclocking it. This will allow you to UP the FSB as much as you need.
*OCN MEMBER P5N-E Overclocks*
Click Speed for CPUZ Verification

*#1*
*Zippit
E8400 (C0) @ 3996.24Mhz (444.03*9)

#2
dpawl31
Pentium D 820 (B0) @ 3710.04Ghz (265*14)
*


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## davek

ASUS site dosen't say it does just normal C2D?

What do people think about this compared to the P5B?


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## dpawl31

I guess I assumed it did since it takes dual core Pentium D and Quad Core, and you are right it doesn't say it on the site. But it does say "Quad Core/CoreTM" which I would assume means Core 2 Duo.

Where I bought it, ZipZoomFly, it says C2D.


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## Wink

The Asus 680i does support C2D dual core.. several on the forums running that board with the dual cores.

I would be interested in knowing how far Asus lets you clock the FSB, and if they have fsb:Mem dividers.

It will be interesting to see how this board compares in actual use against the reference boards with true 680i from Evga, biostar and BFG.. but so far it seems the Striker is the king of all 680i.. but even that hasnt been out long enough to truly know much yet


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## dpawl31

Wink, in regards to the FSB and mem dividers(Keep in mind this is the 650i not the 680i)
(all below from techage review listed above)
SPECS:
FSB Overclock Ability: Techage review quote: "Ram rant aside, this is a superb overclocking board otherwise. 86% overclock anyone? Yes, that's a 3.46GHz speed on a 1.86GHz chip. This speed was benchmark stable, but not Prime95 stable. My absolute 100% stable overclock proved to be 3.33GHz, or a 79% overclock.

The point is not of a huge E6300 overclock though, but the fact that the board handled 495FSB without issue. There are reports around the web from other enthusiasts with this board, who have hit 500 - 515FSB no problem. I believe that would be the max of the board, but that is a huge max! With this type of potential, it means you could "technically" get 4.5GHz out of your E6600, which most likely wouldn't happen anyway. I think the thing to make clear though, is that it will be the CPU holding back an overclock, not the motherboard.
"

Vcore Adjust from 0.83125v all the way up to 1.6v in increments of 0.00625v

Vdimm 1.920v, 2.013v, 2.085v, 2.178v, 2.259v, 2.353v, 2.424v and 2.517v

Northbridge 1.208v, 1.393v, 1.563v and 1.748v.

Dividers 1:1, 5:4 or 3:2 (Quote from Techage, "As an example, at one time I chose to use a 375FSB (1500MHz) and then 800MHz for the ram, or DDR2-800. This gave me a divider of 15:16. As odd as it is, it works and works well. This essentially means that your ram should not be the factor for your CPU overclock not being able to reach new heights. ")

Memory: "Like the P5N-Es bigger brother, the P5N32-E SLI, there are many memory tweaking options available. In addition to the standard CAS-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-CPC, you can also tweak the secondary timings, such as tRC, tRRD and others including the Async Latency." "The problem is, this board doesn't seem to want to clock -any- ram beyond DDR2-1000 speeds, regardless of what timings you are running. " <-- the memory issue I spoke of to be fixed in bios update


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## dpawl31

FROM TECHAGE REVIEW:

Pros
Superb CPU overclocker
Pricetag ($140)
Ability to back up your BIOS to thumb drive
SLI-Capable
Vista ready

Cons
No SB heatsink???
Memory overclocking limit
Failed overclocks may result in the need to manually reset BIOS


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## dpawl31

I want to get more cooling on the NB/SB. There is a heatsink on the NB, I have an old 486 (oh god I said it) CPU fan than I was thinking of trying to screw in place on that heatsink. I was going to get that Zalman cooler the wide angled one for the SB.

Any other recommendations? Can I do that fan mod?


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## Wink

wow, looks like Asus did it right with the board! My 2 previous Asus boards werent real OC friendly, sounds liek this one is!

As far as Northbridge goes, on my 680i it has a heatsink built in, witha heatpipe AND a fan.. and it's still hot.

hope the 650i isnt that hot


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## dpawl31

Really, I saw that heatpipe and the fan for it, looked like it would do the trick. I'll have to see how my little trick does. My 650i gets here tomorrow, on my day off!


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## Zabaco

Still tinkering with it on OCing. I'm new to this and school finals are coming up so my time is super limited. Right now I just pulled it out of my comp to put on a active colling NB heat sink and still looking to find a passive heat sink for the SB. Nice thing is a tall sink on the SB won't bump into any large graphics cards. (I'm planning on buying an 8800gts in the next few days). Also if you're not doing sli a big card will not block any other PCI slots. People let me know your specs including voltage configs on this baby.


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## dpawl31

I want to get another 7600GT in a few months, and I love it because its so skinny and I can save both my PCI, because I have a Wireless G card and want to get a real sound card. Have you played with the onboard HDA? I heard good things and bad. Bad being they said when there is no sound there is a lot of crackling... but I would attribute that to bad connections/wiring?

What did you get for a NB sink? And I am not positive but don't all NB sinks fit the SB holes?


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## Zabaco

I got the Extreme Spirit two by Thermaltake for about 25 bucks at frys. I am going to order http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155
for my south bridge. I'll probably use a different thermal paste/adhesive or whatever since people say the one with it sucks.


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## dpawl31

Got my board today. Everything installed great, except I am having some memory problems. CPUZ is showing a memory divider of 1:2, and 400Mhz. I have DDR2 800. I manually set the divider in the bios (after shutting off AI) and I assumed it was all set, now it still shows 1:2. DAMN! I'll have to go look @ that Techage review again and see what he did to get around these memory issues. What is yours running @ Zabaco?


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## dpawl31

Oh by the way my Freezer 7 Pro didn't quite fit with that massive NB heatsink, I am going to snip off the ASUS piece which will allow it to fit. For now, the freezer is in there backwards lol. It fit that way, but its blowing the air towards my empty space beneath my CD drives lol. Need to fix that soon, But I am running 34c idle even with that blowing backwards!


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## Zabaco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Got my board today. Everything installed great, except I am having some memory problems. CPUZ is showing a memory divider of 1:2, and 400Mhz. I have DDR2 800. I manually set the divider in the bios (after shutting off AI) and I assumed it was all set, now it still shows 1:2. DAMN! I'll have to go look @ that Techage review again and see what he did to get around these memory issues. What is yours running @ Zabaco?


Well I have mine turned to manual and I just unlinked my FSB and Memory if thats what your asking. The bios is weird cause it lets you change the Bus Speed as apposed to the Front Side Bus but they change together. I have my setup running at 1700Mhz Bus speed making a 425 FSB and my memory is OCed to 930Mhz with clocked back timings of 5 5 5 15. My memory voltage is something like 2.3 or 2.4, fairly high, but my friend said our memory (he has same kind) is suppose to run at that. O and my Vcore voltage is at 1.43 I believe. Running orthos for about 1 hour and seems to be doing good. My temps are anywhere from 37-40 (have 3 different things monitoring temps). All for an OC of 3.400 Ghz


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## Zabaco

O well for some reason I thought you had a C2D. Just realized you don't so most of those facts I told you won't help. Guess others can use it if they have the same setup as me.


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## dpawl31

Im still learning this stuff. For sure.
Apparently 400Mhz and 1:2 divider is because its DDR and 400Mhz means 800mhz? Thats what I have been told in another thread.
I just dont get the rated FSB thing, @800Mhz, and its currently @200Mhz?
So does that mean I could pump it up to 800?


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## dpawl31

Hah, look at that. Read a little and now I get it!
Rated FSB is 800, Bus Speed is 200 because Intel chips are "quad pumped" meaning the 200 is multiplied to 800. It is a bit confusing when your Bios lists yours FSB as 800, and your Ram as 800, when your ram is running 400Mhz, and your FSB is really 200Mhz. LOL. CRAZY. Double this, Quad that, divide my @$$, Intel! lol.

Anyway, I got this thing cruising @ 3.5Ghz, with stock memory (using 5:4 divider) I will start playing with the memory once I really start understanding the timings, for right now I have no clue. I think I am done tinkering for the night. Time to run 3DMark and see a new score, then off to bed.


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## Zabaco

Nice sounds like you're getting the hang of it, kinda like me.


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## dpawl31

Hah not really, guess I jumped the gun. Went right from 2.8 to 3.5 and now I failed 3dmark06 and orthos after 10 minutes. lol. Guess I need to step it down a bit and adjust the vcore... or maybe ill just up the vcore and try again?


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## gtboi604

Hey guys, just picked mine up yesterday, finished installing everything today...fresh XP, drivers, etc....

So i did some overclocking today, and thus far, Ive only managed to get 3.30Ghz Prime95 stable, about 61 degrees top...hot hot...also using freezer 7 pro...
I cant manage to get it any higher...tried 3.4 but doesnt post...

Could u guys help me figure out how to set the Ram timings...cuz im quite confused with that...
Right now im running Corsair 5300-667Mhz set to 5-5-5-15-17 2T
My dividers are messed up and i dunno how to fix them...10:14








But yea, thanks guys!


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## dpawl31

Ouch, you have value ram? I have heard that value ram is a really bad choice for OCing. But being Corsair maybe it is OK? Those timing seem really loose. Keep in mind until the next bios comes out you may have trouble with RAM. Read the techage review about the ram issue.

Did you up your voltage for your CPU? How about the RAM voltage? Are you linked, unlinked?


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## dpawl31

Also, 61C eh? What thermal compound are you using? I haven't got mine over 52 ever. Did you slop it on there too much?


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## gtboi604

All voltages r on auto as of now....unlinked.
no, my room is pretty warm, i think thats why it goes to 61C....
yep, its winter over here, freezing weather, so the heats cranked up in my house...


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## dpawl31

Hah, yeah I was @ 65F with the heat off, Orthos only went to 48c, Then turned the heat on up to 70F, and Orthos was @ 52c. lol


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## Zabaco

I would take your voltages off Auto when you know what the limits are for your CPU and Ram and Northbridge. That will take some time to research.


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## gtboi604

should i just crank up all the voltages to max on all of them to try to get my max OC?


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## gtboi604

o, also, do i need to mess around with the ram speeds in order to get a higher clock speed on my CPU?
will downclocking my ram help in raising CPU speed? say from 667 to 533 or 400???
i have no clue how to get a higher clock on my CPU...thanks guys!


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## dpawl31

Well I am not able to give you advice on the RAM as I am not sure what I am doing yet either. I definately don't suggest putting all your voltages to the max, this board overheats in the chip department as it is, definately don't do that. The less voltage you can be, the better. Essentially voltage stabilizes the overclock. But other than that all voltage does is use more energy and create more heat.

Being you have value select I would say you are in trouble there. But I am sure it is doable, you just won't get your best OC for your processor.

You said you are using Freezer 7 Pro as well? Is it installed pointing out the back of the case? I had to install my pointing to the front because of the NB heatsink hitting the Freezer. I plan to trim the ASUS piece off the heatsink and install a small fan on the far right end of it. I have an old NB cooler from my old board I am going to thermal-tape to my SB. Then I will start to OC.

I definately suggest reading some of the tutorials and stuff lots of info on timings and things.


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## gtboi604

well, i figured out the ram thing...
i have my rig now running stable @ 3.4Ghz, with Vcore of 1.450 and ratio of 1:1
so far its not too warm...again under load bout 60C...
HURRAY...its going good now, just gotta find out if i can OC further!
thanks cya!


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## dpawl31

I am running 3.5Ghz w/ vcore of 1.3v and 5:8 divider. I am also @ 55C max.
I will have to start playing with my RAM soon. I always thought you couldn't go over your rated speed for ram... so if you are running that high on a 1:1, you have to be over 667. I really haven't gone into the memory aspect yet so I have set my specs to unlinked and manually set the ram @ 800.


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## gtboi604

nope, runnin my ram @ 486mhz, so im actually downclocking my ram...
FSB @ 243, which is ddr 243, ddr2 486...
so yeah, try gettin urs to 1:1....
havent benched yet...will keep u posted later.
gl, hf.


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## dpawl31

I am not quite sure what you mean.

My FSB is @ 250 (effectively 1000FSB)
If I were to go 1:1, the RAM would run @ 1000Mhz right? Isn't that DDR2-1000? 
At the moment, I am @ 5:4 Because I am running 1000FSB:800RAM

I was told DDR being Dual Date Rate means if set to 800 in Bios, CPUZ shows 400Mhz which is really 800Mhz because of DDR? I am so confused!


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## gtboi604

ok, how bout i jus give u sum numbers considering we have the same CPU...
ok, the 820, has a multiplier of 14x...the FSB in the bios shows the 'rated FSB' which is divided by 4, bcuz its quad-pumped er sumtin. (dunt ask y, jus cuz)
Now, the ram.
Take ur 800Mhz ram, and divide that by 2, bcuz its DDR2. (dunno y)

so, if u took my rig for ex.
FSB







RAM @ 1:1 would have to be the BUS SPEED (243) and dram (486/2=243)
NOW, i take my BUS SPEED (243) x multiplier (14) = CORE SPEED OF 3.4GHz
My DDR2 ram is actually running at a lower than rated 667Mhz (486Mhz), now bcuz im running a 1:1 divider.

Hope this helps a lil...


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## dpawl31

Ah, awesome. NOW! What is the purpose of running 1:1. 
I just don't see how slower RAM runs better?
If I am running 250FSB and 400Mhz RAM, 5:8, why not? Will it run better with a 1:1?


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## dpawl31

This board is taking so much heat by the P5B guys and non-sli guys.
Could they be scared of our ease over 500FSB? Or jealous of the SLI option, for at least $40 less than they spent on their single PCI-E board?

hehe.

SO! I finally understand the RAM stuff, and from what I can tell 1:1 just offers more stability. So if I have a 250FSB, I should downclock my ram to DDR2-500 (250Mhz) to achieve 1:1?

Will that run better than my 5:8 250:400Mhz?


----------



## dpawl31

Don't they make other cards for the PCI-E? Like sound cards and such?
Dual PCI-E doesn't always have to be SLI right?
Can the other SLI slot be used as a PCI-E x 1?


----------



## Chozart

KEep that RAM as you have it. It'll give a little bit better performance that way









And I have not seen you hit 500MHz on your FSB yet, although you refer to the 'easy of doing so'. you claim yourself you're only at 250 (which is halfway)

I tend to take 'professional reviews' with more than a grain of salt, and go with what happens in the field. If you hit over 500MHz on the FSB, let me know!

It's a promising board, and if it does as stated, it will be a serious competitor for the budget P965 boards (Asus P5B-E, Gigabyte DS-3)


----------



## dpawl31

Check out both reviews @ the beginning of the thread, they both hit over 500 FSB and both are professionals and also both say they have seen others around the web hit 500FSB easily. I personally CAN'T hit 500 with this CPU, it has a locked multi of 14.


----------



## Dman

Its highly unlikely you will hit 500bus (2000FSB) on that cpu without a phase unit. On the core 2's however its pretty easy to hit 500BUS, especially with the e6300.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dman*


Its highly unlikely you will hit 500bus (2000FSB) on that cpu without a phase unit. On the core 2's however its pretty easy to hit 500BUS, especially with the e6300.


I agree. The results I've seen in reviews and enthusiast sites were all with C2D chips. They downclocked the multi and upped the FSB with voltage increases as needed. If your multi is hard locked, you will get very limited increases.


----------



## dpawl31

I never said I personally could hit 500. I said the BOARD is capable of it.
And I also noted that it was C2D chips, I know this. That is my plan, to eventually get one.

Please re-read... 
Quote:



I personally CAN'T hit 500 with this CPU, it has a locked multi of 14.


----------



## Zabaco

I'm at 425 FSB on this board. Once finals are over I hope to increase that without uping the voltage on my CPU too much more. If not I'm at a nice OC of 3.4 right now


----------



## dpawl31

Nicely done! 
I am @ 3.5 and only 1.3v vcore still. 
Why not up your voltage?
Too hot? Didn't you get NB/SB upgrades?


----------



## dpawl31

Finally Orthos'd for 12 hours at my current setup and damn she's stable!


----------



## gtboi604

wow, hey congrats!
but i got a few q's bout ur OC.
well, i got mine to 3.5Ghz also, cept i had to up the Vcore to 1.6v, and NB to 1.7~v...I have no idea why u didnt need to up ur voltage yet.
I have mine set to 3:2 FSB







RAM...
could it be that my temps are much higher than yours? i find it weird.

anywho, would u happen to have Rainbow Six: Vegas?
Cuz when I go to 3.5Ghz, my game starts to artifact like mad!
But its fine when i go to 3.4Ghz...
Could u possible use that as a stress test to see how urs go? thx!

Nice OC' btw, this board Rox!!!
D~


----------



## dpawl31

I was getting wierd errors @ 3.5, it was kind of a suicide OC and happened to boot XP. When I ran orthos before I hit 10min mark I got errors. 
Rebooted and upped vcore to 1.3v and I can now run orthos over 12 hours errorless.

I have not touched anything at all yet.
Are your memory timings manually entered? This is another thing that caused errors.

I have HL:2 and CS:S, both set to full settings and I am running 130FPS+.
No glitches at all in game.


----------



## gtboi604

hmm, good point, maybe ill try to manually enter my timings and try...

no, those games arent that stressing anymore for the current gen of games...see, with R6:vegas, it would destroy even 8800's with high res + settings...
thx for the info tho...

keep u posted.
D~


----------



## marin8n

I just ordered this board from Newegg and am looking for some good memory that will overclock down the road and at a decent price. I will be running a C2D E6400. I was looking at G-SKill and OCZ, leaning towards G-Skill right now due to lower timings and price. Anyone have experience overclocking either of these brands? This is my first PC build.

Thanks!


----------



## dpawl31

Sweet! BIOS update was released today!
Get it HERE

Supposedly fixes the memory issues!

**EDIT** Good luck with the bios update lol.
ASUS' GLOBAL, USA, and EUROPE servers are "busy" lol
I am downloading from CHINA @ 306bytes/sec. Yes, BYTES, not KILOBYTES. lol


----------



## dpawl31

Marin8n, what exact memory are you looking at? I have the OCZ Gold GX DDR2-800 and now with the bios update I am going to see how things go, but so far I have been running fine with a 5:8 divider, check my system specs.


----------



## marin8n

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Marin8n, what exact memory are you looking at? I have the OCZ Gold GX DDR2-800 and now with the bios update I am going to see how things go, but so far I have been running fine with a 5:8 divider, check my system specs.

Specifically the G-Skill - Model #: F2-6400CL4D-2GBPK
and the OCZ - Model #: OCZ2P8002GK

Newegg carries both models right now. Can anyone recommend one over the other for any particular reason/experience?

It's sounding like the BIOS update is helping with the memory problems.

Thanks!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

It's sounding like the BIOS update is helping with the memory problems.
Have you seen it personally? I haven't had a chance to really look.

That OCZ is basically what I have, except little better timings and 2GB.
ZipZoomFly has your specific ram, with the same rebate, for $1 more, but free shipping. (NE is $5 shipping) So that is $4 less, which you can spend the $3 dollars and upgrade to 2 business day Fedex on ZZF.

My plan is to OC the RAM I have, and eventually get the same set to throw in the other two channels. I figure 2GB with four slots rather than 2GB on two slots means better access to the RAM, but I am probably horribly wrong!


----------



## marin8n

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Have you seen it personally? I haven't had a chance to really look.

That OCZ is basically what I have, except little better timings and 2GB.
ZipZoomFly has your specific ram, with the same rebate, for $1 more, but free shipping. (NE is $5 shipping) So that is $4 less, which you can spend the $3 dollars and upgrade to 2 business day Fedex on ZZF.

My plan is to OC the RAM I have, and eventually get the same set to throw in the other two channels. I figure 2GB with four slots rather than 2GB on two slots means better access to the RAM, but I am probably horribly wrong!

I havn't personally checked it out, but I have read lots of complaints on both NE and Nvidia forums about memory compatibility issues. Hopefully they actually respond to those documented customer issues!

As far as the RAM, I guess I really don't know how much difference the lower timings even make. From what I understand I may have to loosen them anyway to achieve a higher overclock. Being my first build, memory timings is not really something that I have experience with on my HP machines. I think I will give the G-skill a try due to lower timings at the same memory speeds for a lower price. Thanks for the help!


----------



## dpawl31

Hah HP!
Well, I would take an HP over a Dell any day.
GSkill and OCZ seem to be pretty much identical, so many people have both brands, and they seem to both be equally suited to the OC'er.

You should fill out your system specs, go to quick links, user CP, then edit system. Put in what you are getting set up with!

You can familiarize yourself with the REP+ next to my name too







hehe.
REP+ to you for joining in this thread, welcome to the P5N-E team!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtboi604*


wow, hey congrats!
but i got a few q's bout ur OC.
well, i got mine to 3.5Ghz also, cept i had to up the Vcore to 1.6v, and NB to 1.7~v...I have no idea why u didnt need to up ur voltage yet.
I have mine set to 3:2 FSB








RAM...
could it be that my temps are much higher than yours? i find it weird.

anywho, would u happen to have Rainbow Six: Vegas?
Cuz when I go to 3.5Ghz, my game starts to artifact like mad!
But its fine when i go to 3.4Ghz...
Could u possible use that as a stress test to see how urs go? thx!

Nice OC' btw, this board Rox!!!
D~


Where you hidin man! Get that BIOS update, manually enter your timings, and get rockin! You have the same CPU as me! What are you running for a cooler, stock?

ZABACO! Where you hiding with your C2D rig! lol

Cmon people, updates! I got the bios flash, have yet to try upping my memory at all, if I can get it to 500Mhz (DDR2-1000) I could be running 1:1 @ 3.5Ghz! What do you guys recommend I do with my timings? 
Currently @ 5-5-5-15. (stock for my ram)


----------



## dpawl31

Woah, look at marin8n... Mista Vista!
I think I might suggest putting a fresh copy of XP on there first... I think it is going to take quite a few months before they work out all those Vista driver issues. Good thing you are getting the 2GB RAM, I heard Vista eats ram like tic tacs









Have you already bought all that stuff? Is some of it old?
I would recommend a better PSU, I have never heard of it and it seems like a no-name brand? Correct me if I am wrong, it could be a great PSU lol.


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Woah, look at marin8n... Mista Vista!
I think I might suggest putting a fresh copy of XP on there first... I think it is going to take quite a few months before they work out all those Vista driver issues. Good thing you are getting the 2GB RAM, I heard Vista eats ram like tic tacs









Have you already bought all that stuff? Is some of it old?
I would recommend a better PSU, I have never heard of it and it seems like a no-name brand? Correct me if I am wrong, it could be a great PSU lol.



Thanks for the welcome. Repped! Anyways, I thought I timed it well with the release of Vista. I just prefer to do a full install from the get-go rather than mess with XP with an upgrade on top of it. Plus, being a former HP guy, I don't have a copy of ANY operating system on disc (darn preloaded junk).

I am more of a dvdshrink, video editing, multi-media guy than a gamer, so I think the 2G of ram should handle vista ok. Wish I would have got in on a beta test so I could preview vista - but I guess most people will end up with it eventually - just like XP they all have their bugs from the beginning.

My PSU was bought mainly for the clear acrylic case to be honest with you. It got decent ratings and was reasonably priced, so I went with it. I did hear lots of horror stories from FAR power supplies so I at least tried to stay away from those.

I have been learning a LOT since I decided to build my own and began research in Nov 06. Hoping I can get some support and discuss my progress with some experienced guys on here. Especially on the board since I pulled the trigger on the 650i (after countless hours of debate and comparison). I liked the fact I have SLI as an option and the 4 IDE devices put me over the edge and could not justify $250 for an 680i with a $220 processor and $95 AR GPU!


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Woah, look at marin8n... Mista Vista!
I think I might suggest putting a fresh copy of XP on there first... I think it is going to take quite a few months before they work out all those Vista driver issues. Good thing you are getting the 2GB RAM, I heard Vista eats ram like tic tacs









Have you already bought all that stuff? Is some of it old?
I would recommend a better PSU, I have never heard of it and it seems like a no-name brand? Correct me if I am wrong, it could be a great PSU lol.


I noticed you have the freezer pro 7 cooler. I was looking at that as an option. How did it fit with the chipset heatsink being so close? Much modification necessary?


----------



## dpawl31

Great question! I did have to install it backwards till I thought of what to do. It only hits @ the base of the fan itself, no fin-to-fin contact. So, I just removed the ASUS logo off the top of the NBHS and bent the one fin giving me trouble down and under te Freezer. Worked like a charm. Not pretty, but worked. I plan on getting an active HS for the NB and passive for the SB soon anyway, but it works as is. Freezer is just too cool man. I need to get a new intake (only one intake right now, an 80mm) and I should really drop my temps. Right now idles @ 36C with 70F ambient temp in room.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marin8n*


Thanks for the welcome. Repped! Anyways, I thought I timed it well with the release of Vista. I just prefer to do a full install from the get-go rather than mess with XP with an upgrade on top of it. Plus, being a former HP guy, I don't have a copy of ANY operating system on disc (darn preloaded junk).

I am more of a dvdshrink, video editing, multi-media guy than a gamer, so I think the 2G of ram should handle vista ok. Wish I would have got in on a beta test so I could preview vista - but I guess most people will end up with it eventually - just like XP they all have their bugs from the beginning.

My PSU was bought mainly for the clear acrylic case to be honest with you. It got decent ratings and was reasonably priced, so I went with it. I did hear lots of horror stories from FAR power supplies so I at least tried to stay away from those.

I have been learning a LOT since I decided to build my own and began research in Nov 06. Hoping I can get some support and discuss my progress with some experienced guys on here. Especially on the board since I pulled the trigger on the 650i (after countless hours of debate and comparison). I liked the fact I have SLI as an option and the 4 IDE devices put me over the edge and could not justify $250 for an 680i with a $220 processor and $95 AR GPU!


Right on! 
Did my initial listing help you with your decision on the 650?
Yeah all OS's have their issues, I am just going to wait a bit. 
I do however think you may eventually upgrade to 4GB. Video editing is really harsh on the RAM, gaming not as bad.
Thanks for the REP!

I really think I have started something good here, there was NO talk about this board when I came on here in late DEC. and now we have quite a few who had the board, and a couple, like yourself, just getting it.

Oh also, BTW the new bios update adds a new item in the bios, it lists SLI Ready memory as not detected or detected.


----------



## dpawl31

I see you are logged in again, I have a picture of the HS, are you interested? Let me know [email protected]


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Great question! I did have to install it backwards till I thought of what to do. It only hits @ the base of the fan itself, no fin-to-fin contact. So, I just removed the ASUS logo off the top of the NBHS and bent the one fin giving me trouble down and under te Freezer. Worked like a charm. Not pretty, but worked. I plan on getting an active HS for the NB and passive for the SB soon anyway, but it works as is. Freezer is just too cool man. I need to get a new intake (only one intake right now, an 80mm) and I should really drop my temps. Right now idles @ 36C with 70F ambient temp in room.


Sounds simple enough. I may have to give it a try. Those seem like really good temps. I have heard that the Pentium D chips run very hot! I like the idea of extra cooling on the NB/SB. I will be exploring that as well in the near future.

This thread just reaffirmed my leaning toward the 650i. I thought about waiting to see what other manufacturers were going to offer with this chipset, but from what I understand Asus has quite the reputation already. Plus, I'm ready to get building! Need a hobby now that football season is almost over!


----------



## dpawl31

Hope you aren't a Patriots fan...eh DAMN you Caldwell! lol.


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hope you aren't a Patriots fan...eh DAMN you Caldwell! lol.


Sorry... Cowboys fan.... Big Tuna is out! I hear Cowher is being looked at. I would be down with that!


----------



## dpawl31

Couldn't upload too big a picture.... 1600x1200 max these are 6megalpixel pics. I sent them to your email







Hope to install my image software tomorrow and resize em to get them on here. Wish I had something better than the software that came with my printer lol.


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Couldn't upload too big a picture.... 1600x1200 max these are 6megalpixel pics. I sent them to your email







Hope to install my image software tomorrow and resize em to get them on here. Wish I had something better than the software that came with my printer lol.


Cool, thanks!


----------



## dpawl31

The stock HS has an ASUS logo on it, its a thin metal sticker basically. Peel that off, and then carefully, with the HS OFF the board, bend the middle row tab closest to the CPU cooler down and out of the way.

The Freezer directs the flow of air a little downward too, right @ the voltage coverters on the board.

I'd take a better pic but I can't with the PC in use. lol.

Keep that ASUS sticker from bending too much and you can save it to re-stick it to your case









Goes well with the ASUS inside and Pentium D inside stickers on my extra CD drive bay inserts.

Oh and while you have the HS off it's a good idea to scrap the junk thermal compound and slap on some AS5


----------



## gtboi604

hey man, im here!
yeah i checked the new bios, but i read in the asus forums that it sucks...so i think im going to hold out for the next one.
hows the new bios in ur comp?
notice any performance difference?

with regards to the freezer 7 question, yeah, it doesnt fit wit the HUGE NB HS...so u may want to look into an alternative way to cool ur NB.
i got myself a Noctua Nu-06 i think, fits and works like a charm.
good luck with that!


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtboi604*


hey man, im here!
yeah i checked the new bios, but i read in the asus forums that it sucks...so i think im going to hold out for the next one.
hows the new bios in ur comp? 
notice any performance difference?

with regards to the freezer 7 question, yeah, it doesnt fit wit the HUGE NB HS...so u may want to look into an alternative way to cool ur NB.
i got myself a Noctua Nu-06 i think, fits and works like a charm.
good luck with that!


I'll have to look at the Noctua. I saw that someone on here also had the Zalman 9700 LED, how does that cooler fit? Any modification necessary?


----------



## dpawl31

I believe he said the Noctua is for his NB. The Zalman is a CPU cooler.
Get the freezer. I researched for a month every part of this PC, the Freezer is better. The Zalman, as far as I have read, barely gets a C2D in the high 30's for idle, and low 50's load, and that is stock, no OCing.
With this freezer, I am running 52C max load, and that's with a 2.8 HOTTT Pentium D running @ 3.5.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



yeah i checked the new bios, but i read in the asus forums that it sucks...so i think im going to hold out for the next one.
hows the new bios in ur comp? 
notice any performance difference?


Yeah I read the forums too- after I updated. Oops.
Haven't noticed a difference, but it supposedly fixed RAM issues and I was stable before the new one. But now I will try and go to DDR2-1000, to achieve my 1:1 @ 3.5Ghz.
Some of those guys on that forum (ASUS) are just idiots.
"I soldered my motherboard to my case for strength and now it wont start, damn you asus you suck".
That's what I expect from those guys.


----------



## hermit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I believe he said the Noctua is for his NB. The Zalman is a CPU cooler.
Get the freezer. I researched for a month every part of this PC, the Freezer is better. The Zalman, as far as I have read, barely gets a C2D in the high 30's for idle, and low 50's load, and that is stock, no OCing.
With this freezer, I am running 52C max load, and that's with a 2.8 HOTTT Pentium D running @ 3.5.



might i suggest the scythe ninja. it fit my board perfectly, and i get 40c on full load. (not overclocked yet)


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hermit*


might i suggest the scythe ninja. it fit my board perfectly, and i get 40c on full load. (not overclocked yet)


I didn't notice he was talking about his NB cooling. I will probably look into that as well once I get OC'ing. If the Ninja fits without modification, that would be nice.

I guess this would be a general question for everyone then: "What cooler are you using and what are your idle/load temps?" Are you overclocking? Also if anyone has pics, that would be awesome!

Thanks!


----------



## hermit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marin8n*


I didn't notice he was talking about his NB cooling. I will probably look into that as well once I get OC'ing. If the Ninja fits without modification, that would be nice.

I guess this would be a general question for everyone then: "What cooler are you using and what are your idle/load temps?" Are you overclocking? Also if anyone has pics, that would be awesome!

Thanks!


idle is 33c right now. but i just built it, so the burn-in is not quite completed with AS5

the 120mm fan is pushing towards the top of the case, my psu is at the bottom and i have a fan at the top of the case. the cpu fan is sitting on the HS of the NB, but i don't think it changes anything.


----------



## hermit

i have one question, though, do i put my RAM sticks in the yellow slots or the black slots??


----------



## dpawl31

Black... supposedly it is more stable... don't ask. lol.


----------



## hermit

maybe that's why my computer rebooted by itself yesterday

i'll do it then


----------



## marin8n

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Black... supposedly it is more stable... don't ask. lol.

I also heard you should use the black slots when using 2 sticks. Something to do with heat maybe since they are the furthest from the HS?


----------



## dpawl31

Nah I doubt it is that. Those guys on the ASUS forums are the ones that said use the black slots... said it solved all their issues, well most of them.


----------



## gtboi604

instead of upgrading to 0307, I found the latest beta firmware 0401 on some forum and upgraded to that, right now I havent noticed much difference in performance, maybe a few degrees cooler on the CPU is all...
man, really wish I could go beyond 250FSB on my chip, it wont let me, even with max volts on everything...
O well, right now running @ 3.5Ghz with a 1:1 divider orthos stable.
700Mhz increase is good enuf until i get myself a E6600.
good luck everyone!


----------



## dpawl31

You should drop your CPU voltage to 1.30000v, drop your NB to stock, set your memory to the correct voltage for it, manually enter your timings. You really have that value ram @ 500Mhz?


----------



## gtboi604

anything below 1.55Vcore isnt orthos stable...
chipset/ram is set to auto

the ram is running @ 250Mhz, 500Mhz ddr2.
so i downclocked it from 333Mhz, which is 667Mhz ddr2.
right now timings are 4-4-4-12 2T.


----------



## dpawl31

That doesn't make any sense! You have the same board and CPU, how can you not be stable with the same settings as me? Could it be your ram/my ram?
Why don't you try running your RAM @ 667 and your CPU @ 1.3v.
Gonna give you a crazy divider but I bet since your ram will be running @ stock speed, you will be stable enough to lower your vcore.


----------



## gtboi604

hmmm, i think ive tried that, but i guess ill give it a shot again...
how far have u reached yet with ur rig?
get to 4Ghz yet?
i dunno if thats possible with air, but thats my target...at least 3.8Ghz.
heh, thx for the pointers.
keep u posted.
D~


----------



## dpawl31

I had to revert to the old BIOS. I was getting failed boots... sometimes getting into XP and stalling @ the blue screen b4 user select, sometimes stalling on the asus graphic while posting... I even got to that, hit del and it said entering setup, and stalled.

Damn bios! They better get their #$%@ straight over there at Asus. 
I am still @ 3.5Ghz, haven't tried anything yet. Maybe tomorrow I will. Problem is I am worried about failing boot because when I messed with memory, the "crash free bios" crashed and I had to reset cmos (battery + jumper) and my PC is in a bad area to have to do that...

It never did it while I messed with the FSB tho so maybe I'll be OK. Will try to reach 4Ghz tomorrow. 286 FSB is my goal. (4004Mhz) I may need a new intake fan if I want to reach 4Ghz tho. To get 1:1 with my ram and this processor, with my RAM @ full DDR2-800 I would have to have a FSB of 400, which would put me @ 5.6Ghz. NOT GONNA HAPPEN. lol


----------



## hermit

new bios up version: 0401, 2007/01/24 1.Reduce S3 resuming time. (whatever it is) 2.Change CopyRight year from 2006 to 2007.


----------



## dpawl31

Did you try it? Are those the only changes from 0307 because that one SUCKED! lol.
Thank god I didn't have issues like some others had, some guys had to call tech support b/c they couldnt even post and clearing cmos did nothing.
One guy has to wait for them to get chips in stock and send him a stock bios chip. OUCH.


----------



## hermit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Did you try it? Are those the only changes from 0307 because that one SUCKED! lol.
Thank god I didn't have issues like some others had, some guys had to call tech support b/c they couldnt even post and clearing cmos did nothing.
One guy has to wait for them to get chips in stock and send him a stock bios chip. OUCH.


 no i didn't try it yet. i don't have any problem so far with bios 0202. only one unwanted reboot but that's all. i did not game yet, just ran 3dmark05 and 06


----------



## gtboi604

heres the best i could do...








http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1066/rigstats2ms.jpg
but yeah, temps r there and idling.

to the dude who wanted 2 c sum pix of NB cooling with the freezer 7, i took some...

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1159/img18043xa.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/9856/img18035wo.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/7886/img17940vg.jpg

the cooler is passive, cept i zip-tied the 80mm fan on it myself.
here, hope this helps.
ur welcome...


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtboi604*


heres the best i could do...








http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1066/rigstats2ms.jpg
but yeah, temps r there and idling.

to the dude who wanted 2 c sum pix of NB cooling with the freezer 7, i took some...

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/1159/img18043xa.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/9856/img18035wo.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/7886/img17940vg.jpg

the cooler is passive, cept i zip-tied the 80mm fan on it myself.
here, hope this helps.
ur welcome...










Thanks for the pics! Looks like that lines up nicely with your rear case fan. Still trying to decide between the Freezer and the Ninja for my C2D...


----------



## marin8n

Finally ordered my memory and OS last night... G-Skill 800 (2 x 1GB) and Vista premium OEM. Should be ready to build by next week!


----------



## gtboi604

yeah, it lines up pretty well actually...theres enough room for air circulation between the freezer, the Noctua, and the rear case fan, so id say circulation is not bad at all...u should consider it.
read some review on the Noctua, its good just as a passive cooler, i just added the fan cuz i had it lying around...haha.
Have fun with ur build and let us know how it OC's!
D~


----------



## trekman

I was able to Find a heatsink for the southbridge that will work without a fan and wont give me a problem running 2 8800gtx. But I would like to thank you guys for all the info about overclocking my PC. Im running it about 3.5mhz and even my GPu is overclocked. I ran 3dmark06 lastnight and got a score of 12210 form 9800

thanks again


----------



## pastie

i dont think the 650i will support 2x 8800 series coz of the shares pci-e lanes,e.g 8x,8x sli,or 16x single card
ive got one of thses boards and its really good,i cant wait for a c2d now (overclocking!!!!!!!!!!!!!1







)
i got ok outa my p4 3ghz,mayb squeeze it upto 4ghz but im runnin the stock hsf
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=160424


----------



## pastie

http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/pro...oling/tr-hr-05
i wanna put this on my 650i NB 
anyone changed the shoddy passive one?
if so how'd it go?
i got a few pics to show dimensions


----------



## trekman

they have tested it and it ran 2 8800gtx with no plroblems. I installed my friend 8800 with mine and didnt have a problem running it with the 8X slots...

http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/articl...50aHVzaWFzdA==

read this review they ran 2 Bfg 8800GTX for 14 hrs. of stress test with no problem.


----------



## dpawl31

TREKMAN: AWESOME review! I am adding it to the first post for new people!
So glad to see some serious OCing on this board, so many other P5B fans on this forum hate this board, I think they are just jealous.
And now I have proof of dual 8800! SWEET! I had someone tell me it wasn't possible, thank you so much Trekman! Rep to you!
(PS you should fill out your specs in EDIT SYSTEM so it is easier to read!)

PASTIE: Wow the stock HSF looks so wierd when I am used to my Freezer! I was actually looking @ that cooler as well, but I think I want an active HS for the NB, is there a fan you could clip to that? Does the HS have to point a certain way? (obviously I would want the airflow facing the rear)


----------



## trekman

I use to have the Asus P5B board also and I it died on me. I couldnt wait till Newegg shipped me a new board so I decided to buy the P5N-E SLI. hands down P5N-e is a better board you just have to get a heat sink for the southbridge. I just got the P5B board back yesterday and Im trying to sell it on Ebay now. I read this whole thread and OC my board and had no problems doing it, I even update my bios to the new one. I know that 650 chipset even beats the 680 chipset on some of the test that they did. for the money it worth it....


----------



## pastie

yea the thermalright NB cooler has 70mm fan clips,im so glad i can run dual 8800s on this board coz thats wat i eventually wana get
where u got a SB cooler from for this mobo?wat make is it?


----------



## gtboi604

haha pastie, like ur avatar pic...so cute.

anywho, check out my pics on pg10, i changed the NB cooler.
still lookin for a SB one tho...


----------



## dpawl31

Anybody notice all documentation shows SB is a 4xx series chip, yet CPUZ reports it as 650i?

I am assuming it is just the same SB chip, but CPUZ just reports it that way so you don't think you have been ripped off with an old SB?


----------



## trekman

you can order it from ASUS tell them you need the same heatsink for the southbride on the P5B boards

her is asus site
http://estore.asus.com/shop/search.asp

here is a pic of the heatsink

heatsink


----------



## dpawl31

So Trekman do you think it is your 8800 or your C2D that gives you a way better 3DMark06 score than me? Obviously I know it is both but I am going to geuss it is the 8800?


----------



## trekman

well the 8800GTX needs a fast CPU the faster the CPU the better it works, before I got the 8800 I had the XFX 7950GT extreme and I can only get a 3dmark06 score of 5000 with the 8800 installed with the same chip it jump to close to 10000 to answer you questions it more the GPU but having a fast CPU also helps a lot


----------



## gtboi604

hey trekman,
how does ur E6600 oc on the board? cuz im lookin to upgrade to that...unless the E4300 can change my mind before i do...
thx!


----------



## dpawl31

Hell I just want an e6300 lol.
What do you estimate my chip @ 3.5Ghz would get with your 8800? I get 3345 for 3dmark06 on this rig... pretty pathetic. 
Then again my old rig even failed to do the first test! HAH!


----------



## gtboi604

speaking of which, i havent done 3dmark06 since ive OC'd my rig...guess we'll c later...hope i top 5k...


----------



## dpawl31

You and your SLI you bastard, lol.
When I get my other 7600GT I'll fry you


----------



## dpawl31

Sweet shaved .36 of a second my super PI score by adjusting my ram timing to stock.
Was at 5-5-5-15 for some reason, now @ 5-5-5-12
Super PI 1M now @ 37.968


----------



## Zabaco

I always thought You couldn't SLI two 8800's. For who it may concern I would recommend an active heatsink on your NB for this board, it gets supper hot. I put the extreme spirit 2 on mine. It was a pain because I had to take the mobo out but i think it was worth it. I have my NB voltage at the max 1.75 but with the active HS it should be fine.


----------



## gtboi604

hey, how did u monitor ur NB temps?
what program did u use?


----------



## pastie

mine come with asus probe......jokes aside,that seemed ok to monitor temps/volts,i wanted a windows overclocking tool,any1 got 1?


----------



## Zabaco

Asus probe tool is pretty janky but at least its something, don't have it installed anymore so I dont recall if it had NB temps. I just know it got hot because to touch the HS when OCed was painful. Reviews suggested it and being new to this I followed their advice.


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zabaco*


Asus probe tool is pretty janky but at least its something, don't have it installed anymore so I dont recall if it had NB temps. I just know it got hot because to touch the HS when OCed was painful. Reviews suggested it and being new to this I followed their advice.


did u try to OC ur E6400 on this board yet?
how did it go?
thx
D~


----------



## Zabaco

O yea ive been ocing on this board. I thought I was stable at 3.4 with a FSB of 1700 but recently I haven't been. Ive been messing around to try and reach a stable setting, I'm hoping I can do something around 3.3 Ghz. This board is definitely good to OC C2D. My Vcore is at 1.4 ish. Does anyone know what the max safe setting is for C2D Vcore voltage is?


----------



## marin8n

OK, so I ordered the Scythe Ninja tonight along with a hs/fan for the bare SB of my 650i. Should be ready to build Friday!


----------



## dpawl31

You got an active HS for the SB but did you get a fan for the NB? As far as I can tell the NB is the most important to keep cool. I plan on installing an old 486 (hah, yeah... old school!) cpu fan on my NB.

Did you get the Ninja with the fan? If not I hope you are running 1 of your 120 fans for intake and one exhaust. If you only have exhaust or intake for both, that fanless ninja will constantly raise your ambient temp making it harder for the ninja to remove CPU heat. You just wont have enough airflow around the ninja if you run both your 120s intake or exhaust.

Course you coulda bought the ninja with the fan and me telling you this would be pointless, lol.


----------



## dpawl31

So I have been reading up and apparently the only reason for not running your ram faster than the CPU is that it causes instability because it is not 1:1.

Well, I Orthos'd for over 12 hours with my 5:8 divider, and it is stable as hell.
So I don't see any harm in running it at that, especially since it is running @ stock voltages. (2v) Basically everything gets through my CPU as fast as it can, hits the RAM and gets flown right through there, lol. (250FSB 400RAM)


----------



## trekman

I was wondering how are you guys runnning 1:1 devider when you unlink it? I can only see 1:1 when you select linked? with my setup I lowered my FSB to 1500 so I can play with the memory speed









Im bought a temp gun to see how hot my Northbrige with the stock heatsink and 53.33C full load so I think that not to bad.

thanks for all the people that had a Positive input on this tread much Love to you guys


----------



## dpawl31

1:1 when unlinked is only possible when you match FSB to RAM... intels are quad pumped... so your FSB is 375. Your ram should be 750 (DDR2-750) that will give you 1:1....

Remember our Bios displays actual speeds... The memory is really running @ 400Mhz on my system but in the bios it says 800. My FSB is 250 but in the bios it is 1000.

I can't get a 1:1 with my ram @ full speed because that would require a FSB of 400Mhz, which in turn with my locked 14x multi would make my 2.8 run @ 5.6Ghz... which would last all of 2 seconds and fry it. LoL.

Temp gun idea is pretty cool!

I may try running the ram underclocked to see if I can lower temps a bit... I can get 1:1 if I underclock my ram to DDR2-500... we'll go try that now! Hope I don't have to do a hard cmos clear. . . I have had to in the past when messing with my memory...


----------



## dpawl31

Oh also keep in mind, when you link it, you manually set FSB and then divider, which finally gives you the memory final which you cant change.

When you unlink, you can't adjust the divider because whatever you set your FSB/RAM ratio to thats what the divider will be. The techage review for the board said they got a 15:16 divider lol... pretty cool.


----------



## dpawl31

Well how about that, I did it!

First off, whenever I touch the RAM speed (not timings) it stalls before post, I hear the fans spinning full rpm and thats all it does. So I restart, and it fails to post... thanks to the crash free bios deal, it asks me to continue or enter setup. If I continue, its all default bios options... DOH. If I enter setup I can load from my Bios Profile my OC and settings, then reset the ram speed again to the new setting, exit and it doesn't stall? What's up with that!

Anyway... I am now underclocking my ram, and running a 1:1! Sweet. I was ALSO able to lower my timings thanks to CPUZ's timing table. Check the pic!

Anyone think the new 1:1, and the new timings would give me a better 3DMark06 score, or SuperPI?


----------



## dpawl31

Hmm... I got worse Aquamark and superPI... Could it be true running your memory faster than your CPU is good for your rig?


----------



## trekman

now it makes alot of sense. thanks for the good advice I will try it when I get home.


----------



## dpawl31

So I posted about this loss of scores issue in the memory forum to see if those memory guys can figure it out. Here is the link

Glad I could help trekman. I had NO IDEA what I was doing with ANY of this stuff a month ago, and in regard to memory, I have only learned this much in 2 weeks! lol. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


You got an active HS for the SB but did you get a fan for the NB? As far as I can tell the NB is the most important to keep cool. I plan on installing an old 486 (hah, yeah... old school!) cpu fan on my NB.

Did you get the Ninja with the fan? If not I hope you are running 1 of your 120 fans for intake and one exhaust. If you only have exhaust or intake for both, that fanless ninja will constantly raise your ambient temp making it harder for the ninja to remove CPU heat. You just wont have enough airflow around the ninja if you run both your 120s intake or exhaust.

Course you coulda bought the ninja with the fan and me telling you this would be pointless, lol.


I'll look at adding a fan to the NB once I get it build Friday and can see what I have to work with. The Ninja is the massive one with the 120mm fan built in. I also have a 120mm intake and 120mm exhaust fan on a fairly large case. I wanted to put the Ninja in during the initial build so I wouldn't have to remove the MB later on. I think I'll be good to go as far as circulation!


----------



## trekman

anyone upgrading to vista with this board? I went to Asus site no chipset driver yet.


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trekman* 
anyone upgrading to vista with this board? I went to Asus site no chipset driver yet.

yes of course, maybe when nvidia releases SLi drivers for vista.
stooooopid.

for those chipset drivers, try the nvida site.


----------



## trekman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtboi604* 
yes of course, maybe when nvidia releases SLi drivers for vista.
stooooopid.

for those chipset drivers, try the nvida site.

if Im so stooopid then find the driver on nvidia site. and dont give me no beta driver. Nvidia has not released the driver for the 650 chipset yet it was going to be available yesterday but nothing!

Im gonna wait till everyone has there drivers out


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

if Im so stooopid
LoL


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:


Originally Posted by *trekman* 
if Im so stooopid then find the driver on nvidia site. and dont give me no beta driver. Nvidia has not released the driver for the 650 chipset yet it was going to be available yesterday but nothing!

Im gonna wait till everyone has there drivers out

no man, stooopid wasn't directed to u fool, it was directed to NVIDIA for not having SLi Drivers yet...
I personally havent looked for the vista drivers myself, i was just suggesting to look there...
Your probably stuck with the beta ones if anything for now...
sorry for any miscommunication dude. LOL...








D~


----------



## trekman

its OK I know it Nvidia fault


----------



## dpawl31

Two questions:
Anyone using the stock HDAudio? I can't figure out how to deal with putting in a microphone... I use headphones and when I plugged in the mic, it asked me what I plugged in, I said MIC, it set that to one of the plugs in the back and set my headphones to the front panel - which are NOT hooked up AND are disabled in the BIOS...

Also- Has anyone encountered not having "NVIDIA WDM Video Capture (Universal)" installed? It won't auto install and I have installed all board drivers and NVIDIA drivers... still won't install.


----------



## trekman

i never used the mic plug on the back, but I do use the one on the front. i never had a problem with it

I will test it when I get home


----------



## trekman

I wanted to know if Im gonna run in to some issue if I fill up my memory slots

I have 2 gig on the black slots and wanted to install 2 more 1 gig sticks on the yellow. I know some poeple had some post problems when the memory is on the yellow slots, I will have 4GB total. I will be buying the same memory same timing.

will this slow my PC down? or go for it? Im waiting for my copy of vista to come in then Im sure having 4GB ram would run great


----------



## gtboi604

hmmm, it shouldnt slow ur computer down, those ppl with the yellow slots that arent workin are just unlucky...im runnin my 2gb's right now in the yellow slots...seems fine to me.
D~


----------



## dpawl31

I also ran mine in the yellow, but switched to the black just because I was told to, lol.

It ran fine like that.

I think the yellow/black thing only solves minor issues, but I figured it can't hurt anything.


----------



## dpawl31

DAMN! My video card just dropped $50. (MIR)
Would now be the time to get another and SLI?... hmm.
BFG Tech 7600GT OC


----------



## PaRaDoX

you could buy mine too


----------



## dpawl31

#1 Doesn't it have to be the SAME exact card? Or just a 7600GT?
#2 I don't have the REP to buy or sell on OC.net
#3 Your Avatar is disturbing. LoL


----------



## PaRaDoX

No, It's running with a XFX 7600GT right now.

you don't need rep to buy, just sell/appraise


----------



## dpawl31

Hmm $115+S&H for one that's been tweaked... or $90 for one untouched.
Thanks for the info on buying, but I can't see buying that for the much.

By the way your avatar is still disturbing. lol


----------



## marin8n

Finally got my rig up and running. Posted on first attempt.. Hooray! Running at 2.8 ghz, RAM @ 840 mhz and 4-4-4-12 timings. CPU temps < 40C. Can't wait until I have time to push it further! What benchmarking tools can I use to get an idea of where I am at? I am downloading 3D Mark 06 right now.


----------



## gtboi604

i use the following benching tools...
Orthos
3dMark05/06
PCMark
Memtest
i usually dont care about the scores but rather the stability of the system...
whatever floats your boat man!
have fun!
D~


----------



## marin8n

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtboi604* 
i use the following benching tools...
Orthos
3dMark05/06
PCMark
Memtest
i usually dont care about the scores but rather the stability of the system...
whatever floats your boat man!
have fun!
D~

So do I need to run all of those to see if my system is stable or is one better than the others? How long should I run each one?


----------



## dpawl31

Hey GT, what are you getting for 3DMark scores w/ those dual 6800s? I want to get another 7600GT and I would love to know your score due to same CPU and same MoBo, and virtually same memory.


----------



## dpawl31

Marin8n, Orthos is the true stability test. Run it for as long as you wish, but I have found anything over 10 hours proves 24/7 stability.

If you are going to get errors, MOST of them will show in the first 10 minutes.
Make sure you get the dual core Orthos. Here, I'll attach it









Memtest is the true memory benchmark, I have never used it, I really should.
Just have to bring myself to burn it...wait, can you burn it to CD?

Anyway, the other benchmarks are mostly just scores and such. 3DMark will crash if it hits errors, but the only errors you would get there and not in Orthos are video card related(as far as I know)


----------



## V8Drover

unzip this for a burnable cd version of memtest









http://www.memtest86.com/memtest86-3.2.iso.zip


----------



## dpawl31

Sweet, thanks!

Hey Drover, you have SLI 7600s? How do you like it?
Much different than 1 card?


----------



## V8Drover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Sweet, thanks!

Hey Drover, you have SLI 7600s? How do you like it?
Much different than 1 card?

they're sweet, bout a 35% (ish) increase on 3d mark 06 compared to one card, i don't have any probs running any games on full at my plasmas resolution. It's 1024x768 (42 inch), I know there's no probs at 1280x1024 either but much higher and i'm sure they would suffer. All in all they cost Â£150 for the two, money well spent


----------



## dpawl31

So I have never used an ISO... I unzipped it and put it on a CD-RW to avoid wasting my CD-Rs lol.
So is it supposed to boot off it?
I have my CD drive set as 1st boot option, then HDD. It didn't boot off the CD, so do I have to do something to the file? The website said something like use software to burn it, I just burned the iso file using XP. Is there something else I have to do? I forget what I have to hit to get to the boot from device screen...


----------



## V8Drover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
So I have never used an ISO... I unzipped it and put it on a CD-RW to avoid wasting my CD-Rs lol.
So is it supposed to boot off it?
I have my CD drive set as 1st boot option, then HDD. It didn't boot off the CD, so do I have to do something to the file? The website said something like use software to burn it, I just burned the iso file using XP. Is there something else I have to do? I forget what I have to hit to get to the boot from device screen...

You have to burn it to disc using nero/power2go or some other cd creating program, should have mentioned, sorry dude!


----------



## dpawl31

Yikes... don't have anything! Damn! And I don't own a floppy lol.
Any free programs out there you know of?


----------



## V8Drover

http://www.petri.co.il/how_to_write_iso_files_to_cd.htm

think this maybe free, not tried it but came up on a google search!


----------



## dpawl31

Well damn, I love freeware!
Thanks for looking that up b4 I did








This looks like it will work, and it is a really cool program!
Has support for Pre-SP1, SP1 + SP2 users, as well as Vista! (all different downloads tho)

I can't wait man! Thanks!

**EDIT**
REP+ for the help!


----------



## dpawl31

Just to let you know, that ISO program worked great.
Had to use a CD-R tho, crappy old CD-RW didn't work.

Memtest booted right up and passed with flying colors.
After it passes 100%, it restarts. Is there some amount of times it should run, or a time limit to prove stability?


----------



## V8Drover

Dunno, i think after 100% your good. Maybe worth posting a thread, glad you got it going


----------



## dpawl31

Will do, headed over to software section.
Will give you credit!


----------



## marin8n

Thanks for the help guys. I'll download those and get them going as I overclock further. Hoping to reach 3.4 + , just not sure about the whole memory timings and memory ratio thing. Right now I have it overclocked to 840 mhz without problem, so I guess I'll just have to keep stepping it up a little at a time. Keyword being time - something I don't have a lot of right now!


----------



## dpawl31

What is you FSB and Multi?


----------



## marin8n

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
What is you FSB and Multi?

So far, stable at 1500 FSB and 8X multiplier. Just ran Orthos for 37 minutes at 3.00 ghz. No errors and max CPU temp was 46 C. Guess I can keep pushing it!


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hey GT, what are you getting for 3DMark scores w/ those dual 6800s? I want to get another 7600GT and I would love to know your score due to same CPU and same MoBo, and virtually same memory.

I got 5126 on 3Dmark06
that was when i OC'd my CPU @3.5Ghz and cards @420/1150
i haven't tried again since i upgraded the ram, but i dunno if it'll make any difference...?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marin8n* 
So far, stable at 1500 FSB and 8X multiplier. Just ran Orthos for 37 minutes at 3.00 ghz. No errors and max CPU temp was 46 C. Guess I can keep pushing it!

you should run orthos for at least a few hours...6-8 hrs to really test stability...


----------



## gtboi604

version 15.00
650i VISTA drivers are out @nvidia now!
(trekman)
http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_...a32_15.00.html
now for sum SLi drivers.......+snore+
D~


----------



## trekman

sweet about time! gonna install vista again tonight thanks


----------



## gtboi604

hey dpawl31
hows your Oc going?
i couldn't get mine to post @ 3.6Ghz, even with max voltages...boohoo!
if you did, what were your settings? Thanks!
D~


----------



## dpawl31

I am still @ 3.5, haven't tried anymore was waiting for new Bios...
But I am stable @ 1:1, 3.5Ghz 250FSB.

Your voltages and what not were way off from mine before, so maybe that is why? Also, are you running 1:1? My voltage is @ 1.3vcore and 2.0v vdimm. Manual timings and NB voltage is on auto.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

first off i would like to say... i love u guys for doing this thread on the P5N-E








i get my P5N-E tomorrow!!!!!!








i can not $%@&* wait.....
u guys already helped out a TON and i dont even have it yet
















thx guys +REP 4 U
steve


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *k!D$*W/*gUN$* 
first off i would like to say... i love u guys for doing this thread on the P5N-E








i get my P5N-E tomorrow!!!!!!








i can not $%@&* wait.....
u guys already helped out a TON and i dont even have it yet
















thx guys +REP 4 U
steve

Hey welcome!
We are here to help you with your board as you set it up.
Let us know how it goes!

On the subject of this thread, I can't believe what I started!
This is the 170th post, and over 3,828 views! Awesome!

Welcome again!

**EDIT**
Hah! On the subject of numbers, and posts, I just hit 300 posts! Joined mid-December! lol.


----------



## marin8n

Going to do some more OC'ing this weekend to try an push it to the max safe settings. What would be stable but relatively safe voltage settings to use for the NB, Core, and memory? Also, any advice on OC'ing my 7600GT as far as what program to use and how to go about it? I will also run Orthos for a few hours once I get some solid OC'ing performance going.

Thanks!


----------



## dpawl31

ATITool works great for OCing my 7600GT.
Not sure on safe voltages mine are REAL low.


----------



## marin8n

Is ATItool for ATI cards or does the ATI stand for something else? Anyone used NTune?


----------



## gtboi604

ntune sucks...
just get coolbits and use the regular control panel to OC...
thats what i use.
D~


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hey welcome!
We are here to help you with your board as you set it up.
Let us know how it goes!

On the subject of this thread, I can't believe what I started!
This is the 170th post, and over 3,828 views! Awesome!

Welcome again!

**EDIT**
Hah! On the subject of numbers, and posts, I just hit 300 posts! Joined mid-December! lol.

thx m8, i just got my stuff last night took me about an hour to figure some stuff out but i got it but everything went well









i am putting vista x64 on it now (RC1 cuz thay have not sent me the real thing yet........gggrrrrrrr







)

i will prob. start overclocking it tomorrow cuz im too tired to think at the moment (been up for 12 hours waitin on UPS







and 16 hour playin with the MoBo and playin america's army







)

u know i put Artic Silver 5 on every HS and put a passive HS on south bridge and added a fan to the north bridge and everything is very cool to touch(till i overclock i would imagine)

thx again for all the thoughts and info on this board. i know even b4 i got it, that i bought the right board 4 me!!!!!!!

thx
steve

edit: "+REP 4 u" i ment "+REP 4 u all"


----------



## dpawl31

Very cool!
Yeah the chipset isn't HOT HOT until you OC it.
Can you tell me which fan you added to the NB and what SB HS you added?

Quote:

Is ATItool for ATI cards or does the ATI stand for something else? Anyone used NTune?
NTune DOES suck. ATI Tool is not just for ATI cards, it supports almost EVERY ATI and NVIDIA card. I love it. Never used coolbits but I have heard both ATITool and Coolbits are just as good.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Very cool!
Yeah the chipset isn't HOT HOT until you OC it.
Can you tell me which fan you added to the NB and what SB HS you added?

i put this HS off this MoBo's NB and put it on my SB(slightly modified the HS, took alittle corner off) and used zip strips to rig it up. lol








http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Pro...uID=44&LanID=9
i just found a 40mm fan and slapped it on the NB, i think it was from a PII or III cpu

i plan on getting a new HS and fan for both NB and SB when i get my vid card

steve


----------



## dpawl31

HAH.
I just can't bring myself to ziptie something to my new board lol.
Active HS

I plan on putting this on my NB, I think Zabaco was the one that said that too.

Are the SB holes the same distance and what not? I might try and put this fan on both chips...


----------



## dpawl31

Just checked your profile.

Quote:

*lol* Gateway 17" CRT *lol*
Gotcha Beat. NANAO FlexScan 15". Has seperate RGB inputs on back as well. LOL. Was bought in early 90's for something rediculous like $1300.
PIECE OF CRAP!

Upgraded to THIS

Shweeeet.


----------



## trekman

I use riva tuner works great you can control the fan


----------



## P.J

650i or P965 ?


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:



Originally Posted by *P.J*


650i or P965 ?


depends on if sli is needed.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
HAH.
I just can't bring myself to ziptie something to my new board lol.
Active HS

I plan on putting this on my NB, I think Zabaco was the one that said that too.

Are the SB holes the same distance and what not? I might try and put this fan on both chips...

the ziptie works well for the time being..... lol
i was also lookin at this >>> Active HS <<< but i want to put it on the SB (how do u plan to mount this i dont see any mounting hardware?? let me know how it goes. zipties lol j/k)
and put this on the NB >>>> Active HS
and put this Fan on both NB and SB HS's (its a bit louder but i dont care... it moves more air!!!!!!!!)

also i see there is a spot for another HS in between the CPU HS and the I/O panal. i could not think what would go there, but then i looked at my friends asus P5ND2-SLi nForce4. now i see but what is it cooling? those little chips?









steve


----------



## dpawl31

It is cooling the voltage converters (the big capacitors between the I/O and the socket.)

My freezer 7 pro has a few curved fins at the back to allow the air to blow down at the voltage converters. That's all that is really needed. What does your masscool have?

The HS you wanted to know how to attach: it comes with thermal adhesive, basically AS5 with glue. BUT! It sucks. Very weak and its not really AS5 it's junk. Arctic Silver has a thermal adhesive most people suggest for it. Some people say just to use AS5 and put a dot of super glue on all 4 corners of the HS. I don't personally like the idea of it being permanently attached. I would use that idea, AS5 on the chip, and some glue, but use REALLY weak glue. Enough to hold it on there better than TAPE, lol, but also weak enough that you can remove it later on without damaging anything.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



650i or P965 ?


Yeah, SLI is a big thing if you want the option, go 650i.
If not, it is more a matter of opinion. From what I have seen I would say they are basically the same except 650i HAS the SLI option. I really don't know enough about the P965 though.

**EDIT**
Looked at some P965 boards... if you have any IDE drives you are limited to 2 total with that chipset. I have 4 IDE so I needed that option. Looks like you have one SATA drive so you'ld be fine with either.

One thing I do know is the P5N-E is rated for the 1333FSB when it comes out.
The P5B is not, but obviously there are tons of people who have gone over 1333FSB but I just like that my board is manuf. rated for it.


----------



## dpawl31

Cooling! My next plan is to upgrade the case/chipset cooling.

Offset cooler for NB

Passive HS for SB

Methinks I like that NB cooler! I can put it way over towards the CD drives, and force the air in the same direction to the back of the case.

Also plan on getting a stack of RAMSinks to put on everything I can.

Will be attempting to squeeze an 80mm or two in the front of the case, and a 120mm on top (I have a vent in the center, just in front of the PSU)

Oooooh I can't wait to see my temps.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

i like your Passive HS for SB u picked out!!
looks like it would run cooler than the 1 i looked at for the SB!









o ya i overclocked today
before-------------after
3.2GHz-----------4.0GHz
800FSB-----------1000FSB
DDR2-800--------DDR2-540
vcore is 1.36v
ram is 2.087v
running a 13:14 ratio
runs very stable!!!!!!!!!
i tryed 4.1GHz and 1.4 vcore would not load windows but i will try later with alittle more vcore and mess with the ram timings

steve


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


What does your masscool have?


 it blows air in 360*. so ya mine has air going to it too

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I would use that idea, AS5 on the chip, and some glue, but use REALLY weak glue. Enough to hold it on there better than TAPE, lol, but also weak enough that you can remove it later on without damaging anything.


u could always use zip strips....


----------



## marin8n

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k!D$*W/*gUN$*


the ziptie works well for the time being..... lol
i was also lookin at this >>> Active HS <<< but i want to put it on the SB (how do u plan to mount this i dont see any mounting hardware?? let me know how it goes. zipties lol j/k)
and put this on the NB >>>> Active HS
and put this Fan on both NB and SB HS's (its a bit louder but i dont care... it moves more air!!!!!!!!)

also i see there is a spot for another HS in between the CPU HS and the I/O panal. i could not think what would go there, but then i looked at my friends asus P5ND2-SLi nForce4. now i see but what is it cooling? those little chips?









steve


I have that active HS on my southbridge. Keeps it cool to the touch. I used AS5 epoxy to attach it permanently. Cleaning the stock adhesive off is a bit of a pain, just use a little goof off or mineral spirits. Check out the link to my system pics if you wanna see it!


----------



## dpawl31

Hey guys.
OC'd my 7600GT again, now up to 613/1600.
Also reverted to my loosened my timings and went back to my 5:8 divider.

Gained 220 points in 3DMark06! Shweet!
3DMark06 Link


----------



## trekman

not bad! how are your temps?


----------



## carey8

Man, im stuck at 2.9Ghz, I cant go any higher no matter what i do.
MY Voltages are:
vCore: 3.36XX
Mem: 2.2XX
Mobo: 1.5XX

I cant go higher no matter wha ti change my voltages to. Am i doing something wrong?

HELP!! Ive tried more or less everything.

My specs are:
e6300
Asus P5N-E SLI 650i
Tuniq Tower 120
7900GTO
WD 250GB 16mb cache 7200RPM

Any help id really appreciate.


----------



## trekman

you have to unlink your memory on your bios then it should work


----------



## carey8

Ive unlinked it. 
Oh yeah, my RAM is GeIl Pc6400-800mhz.
Can someone give me a step by step guide?
Like what voltages i should have etc.? 
Im really really stuck.

Id really appreciate it if i coul dhave some quick replies.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Man, im stuck at 2.9Ghz, I cant go any higher no matter what i do.
MY Voltages are:
vCore: 3.36XX
Mem: 2.2XX
Mobo: 1.5XX

I cant go higher no matter wha ti change my voltages to. Am i doing something wrong?

HELP!! Ive tried more or less everything.

My specs are:
e6300
Asus P5N-E SLI 650i
Tuniq Tower 120
7900GTO
WD 250GB 16mb cache 7200RPM

Any help id really appreciate.
#1. Welcome!
#2. Click User CP, Edit System and put your full specs there.
#3. Your OC on a 6300 to 2.9Ghz is a 55.91% overclock...
That is GREAT. Your stock speed of 1.86 up to 2.9? Great!
What multi is the 6300? What is your FSB? I don't know all the specs for the conroes because I refuse to look them up so I stay happy with my little Pentium D lol.
#4. If you fill out EVERYTHING possible, everything you know in your system specs, maybe we can help you out to get a higher OC. (for example, temps, stock vs overclock #'s etc.)
#5.

Quote:

vCore: 3.36XX
Mobo: 1.5XX
No way your vcore is over 3 volts!
Mobo- you mean your northbridge?
What bios are you running? Stock?


----------



## carey8

there we go, sorry i ment my vCore 1.36xxx Sorry.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trekman*


not bad! how are your temps?


If u r talkin to me my temps r 109*F max load, 75*F max idle(<<<wilth all PC's runnin in the room), 40 - 60*F in my room (sometimes gets 70*F in my room with all 3 pc's running) its winter and 0*F out side
i have my room shut off from all heat in the house
the Artic Silver i bought helps alot cuz i ran 110*F on stock thermal junk and stock CPU speeds.....good stuff

steve


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



there we go, sorry i ment my vCore 1.36xxx Sorry.


No problem bud, figured it was a type.
What is your FSB/Multi? Once I know that I can maybe help you.
From what I can tell, you are probably maxxed out. It MAY be you have the old bios and the RAM issues are stopping you. You might be able to squeeze more out of it if you up the voltage some more, but I don't know what is safe for conroes so don't do it till you talk to some other conroe owners! I would start a new thread asking that specific question.

Are you running a 1:1 divider for stability?

Quote:



If u r talkin to me my temps r 109*F max load, 75*F max idle


I think he was referring to me as I was talking about my OC'd 7600GT.
If you were talking card temps, I haven't really tested it yet. I just ran coolbits' "find max" button and thats what I got for core/mem.
As far as temps w/ my PentD @ 3.5, 36idle and 52 load. It's exactly a 25% OC too. I need to get some real AS5, I tried that ceramique crap, hated it, REALLY hard to put on (super sticky!) I am sure it is helping my temps as it is supposed to be as good if not better than AS5, but it is just a PAIN. Once I get some AS5 and some more cooling (nb, sb, case fans) I will attempt to get mah "D" to over 4Ghz, I am VERY positive I can get it! I am already on the top 100 intel overclock list, can't wait to get in the 4Ghz club!

Who wants to bet I can't get to 4Ghz, c'mon!


----------



## carey8

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
No problem bud, figured it was a type.
What is your FSB/Multi? Once I know that I can maybe help you.
From what I can tell, you are probably maxxed out. It MAY be you have the old bios and the RAM issues are stopping you. You might be able to squeeze more out of it if you up the voltage some more, but I don't know what is safe for conroes so don't do it till you talk to some other conroe owners! I would start a new thread asking that specific question.

Are you running a 1:1 divider for stability?

No im not running a 1:1 Divider For stability, As my ram is rated at 800Mhz and my FSB is at 1660Mhz My ram would definatly not run at that.

My ram is also stock 4-4-4-12 timings now im running it at 5-5-5-12 timings.

Thats how i see it anyway, anyone like to give me an explination if im wrong?

Im on the new BIOS, The 0401. Thats newest i could find anyway.

Thanks for your help.


----------



## dpawl31

Yep you are wrong. lol
The bios shows actual values. Lets look at my rig.

My CPU is rated @ 800Mhz FSB. I am currently at 1000 in bios.
Intel CPUs are quad pumped- meaning my FSB is actually 250x4. (1000)
The multiplier is what calculates your core frequency. Mine is 14.
14 times 250 is 3500, or 3.5Ghz.
Your RAM on the other hand, yes it is rated @ 800. That is not really right though, because it is DDR memory, otherwise known as DUAL data rate.
So you Ram in BIOS shows 800, while your FSB is showing 1660.

If you check CPUZ your Ram is running @ 400Mhz, not 800. 
Your TRUE FSB is 415 (quad pumped to 1660)
Your RAM, to run it @ 1:1 only needs to be set to 830, a slight overclock.
This is because your RAM is Dual data rate. Your RAM will really be @ 415Mhz times two, and your FSB will be 415Mhz times FOUR.

So, 415:415 gives you 1:1. I hope this made sense, if not, keep asking questions!

I knew NOTHING about RAM a month ago. I am just gettin' the hang of it.
Also- keep those timings @ 5. You'll need it looser to maintain stability with your RAM OC'd. You may be able to tighten them after.
Also keep in mind you may need to up your RAM voltage to keep it stable @ 415Mhz, but I doubt it. You are already at 2.2v on them anyway, and it is a very minor OC. DDR2-800 can go beyond DDR-1000 speeds if you have good ram.

PS- I am running a 5:8 divider so don't go by my rigs setup lol.
The 5:8 is letting me run the RAM @ stock speeds and gives me a slight performance boost.


----------



## carey8

Thanks Buddy. That acctually helps alot. I understand how it works now.


----------



## exnihilo

Im stuck @ 2.2 Ghz on my e4300/P5N-E.

I have my mem (800) set to FSB 333 (667) @ 4 4 4 12
my CPU FSB is @ 250 (1000) with a multi of 9.

It tried getting to 2.4 with 3:2 ratio (mem @ 400 [CPU FSB @ 300]) which it's rated for, even dropped my timings to 5 5 5 15, with no luck, wouldn't post. I'm still on stock voltages, but for that kind of OC I didn't think i'd have to mess with those. Any ideas?

cg


----------



## dpawl31

Little hint: 1:1 is best for stability on Intels.
You should link it together so that you constantly have a 1:1.
With your FSB @ 300, your RAM will be 300, DDR2-600
Also- check the specs on your RAM for their stock voltage and manually set that. Also manually set the timings to stock.

Your increments for upping the FSB should not be so drastic. Go, say 5Mhz @ a time. (ie 250 to 255) When you fail to get into windows, go back and bump your voltage up a tad. Try again, if not, bump again and retry. KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR TEMPS.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Thanks Buddy. That acctually helps alot. I understand how it works now.
Glad I could help. Keep us posted! (no pun intended!)


----------



## exnihilo

Yeah, but running my ram @ 600 is kind of defeating the purpose of OC'ing my proc isn't it? I will however take your advice and go in smaller incredments. I'll find a happy medium somewhere







. Thanks.

cg


----------



## Perry

I completely blame dpawl31 for getting me into this.

From the reviews I've read, it seems like the northbridge and southbridge chipsets can get quite warm on this board. I haven't been able to find anything definitive from my Google searches but could you mount Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the northbridge and southbridge to keep things chilly or is aftermarket cooling even needed?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



I completely blame dpawl31 for getting me into this.


HAH!
I like you. lol.

Anyway, I have the stock board... @ 3.5Ghz on a 2.8. 
But I do want to get some better cooling.
BTW dont worry about the memory thing, I have had no issues and it seems the new bios fixed it.
So yeah, GET IT MAN! lol

Lots of options for cooling NB/SB but it really is up to what cooler you get for the CPU, to fit it correctly. Check back a couple pages and look at the two I picked out









Welcome to the thread Perry! Can't wait to see you 805 on a P5N-E!


----------



## Perry

I'm curious to see what this thing can do if I put it on a board that allows for voltage increase. At the absolute worse I'll fry it, move on to an E6300 ver. 2 (with the 4MB L2 cache) and sleep on the couch for a few days when my fiance gets mad at me.


----------



## dpawl31

lmao...
How sure are you about getting the board?
I feel you on the fiance thing... we're getting married in October.
Just spent $500ish of wedding money on my new rig, LOL whoops.
She's over it tho- cuz it was from my stocks. haha.


----------



## dpawl31

Updated my profile and my gallery. Why won't my profile list my gallery?


----------



## gtboi604

interesting, speaking of 805, my 820 wouldn't clock any higher than 3.5Ghz so I took my sisters 805 out and swapped it...
this thing is freakish.
it took me 5 mins to get to 4Ghz!!! This is from 2.66Ghz!
too bad its too hot and not very stable, tho i did post into windows...wouldnt pass orthos tho...o well...
now im just running it @ 3.6Ghz with a vcore of 1.3v. STABLE!
Ram is running @ 800mhz with timings of 4-4-4-12!
havent had much more time to tweak with it, but i could post a 4Ghz CPUZ, but it wouldn't be worth it until i get it stable...








o wellies...good luck with your 820 dpawl...
D~


----------



## gtboi604

o yeah, here are my 3Dmark06 scores.
2272 SM2
2053 HDR
1776 CPU
5236 total...
not too shabby i would say for my budget build. hehe


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


lmao...
How sure are you about getting the board?
I feel you on the fiance thing... we're getting married in October.
Just spent $500ish of wedding money on my new rig, LOL whoops.
She's over it tho- cuz it was from my stocks. haha.


We're getting married in September so we have to be super tight with our money.

What sucks (kind of but not really - if that makes any sense) is that I scored a $700 bonus from work and I'll probably get a good sized tax return which would pretty much cover the cost of my upgrade.

Oh well.

I'll take a lifetime of happiness with her instead of 3 months of electronic induced bliss.

Sorry for the thread jack.


----------



## carey8

Right, ive done everything now.

I can not go higher than 2.913Ghz. I think im maxed out








i really hope im not, i cant see how i am. What could be holding me back. 
Also yuo say with the 1:1 ratio, it wont even post with that. 
These are the memory sections on CPUz; Apprently, my max is 400Mhz, even though its PC-6400?

http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cpuzei6.jpg
http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cpuz2yq3.jpg

IM so confused. Im pretty sure its my ram holding me back now. Becuase i can post with 2.5, but after abuot a minute or so of stressing, it blue screens me, whhy is this?

Voltages are:
vCore: 1.37XX
RAM: 2.2XX
NB: 1.7XX

I have to use the highest Voltage on the NB to get it to boot, it doesnt run hot, but im worried about it.


----------



## Perry

Maybe your timings are too tight for your overclock.


----------



## carey8

You can see they're at 5-5-5-etc etc.
What do you advise me to change them to?


----------



## dpawl31

crap. i cant get online im on my cell right now. Limited Or No Connectivity. called comcast and They Blamed My Network Card. I Cant Get An I P Number. Modem Is Fine. It Was Fine Last Night Then I Turn It On This Morning And This Happens. What The Hell!


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *carey8*


You can see they're at 5-5-5-etc etc. 
What do you advise me to change them to?


Scratch that idea. I'm at work and was a bit busy. I didn't take the time to check the CPU-Z shots.

What's the model of Geil memory that you have?


----------



## carey8

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=MY-057-GL

Thats the memory i have. Man its dropped in price.

I really dont think ive maxed out my cpu on this board btw, becuase ive seen people with like 3.2Ghz on this board.


----------



## Perry

Try running a memory diagnostic such as memtest. If you're getting a pile of errors at stock then you have some bad sticks.

Perhaps others can provide more info.


----------



## carey8

i've ran memtest. No errors at all. They are rated to up 2.3 on that site, shall i up the voltage to that. See if i can get a bit more of an Oc out of them?

I cant even boot at a 1:1 divider though. So im having to keep them at ~400Mhz in CPUz.

Shall i up the voltage on them?
Im really confused, could i have been given a bad board? etc?


----------



## jaihenwood

I get my system this weekend can't wait! =) this is going to be my first over clocked computer so i'm really new (i read the whole thread =)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Yep you are wrong. lol
The bios shows actual values. Lets look at my rig.

My CPU is rated @ 800Mhz FSB. I am currently at 1000 in bios.
Intel CPUs are quad pumped- meaning my FSB is actually 250x4. (1000)
The multiplier is what calculates your core frequency. Mine is 14.
14 times 250 is 3500, or 3.5Ghz.
Your RAM on the other hand, yes it is rated @ 800. That is not really right though, because it is DDR memory, otherwise known as DUAL data rate.
So you Ram in BIOS shows 800, while your FSB is showing 1660.

If you check CPUZ your Ram is running @ 400Mhz, not 800. 
Your TRUE FSB is 415 (quad pumped to 1660)
Your RAM, to run it @ 1:1 only needs to be set to 830, a slight overclock.
This is because your RAM is Dual data rate. Your RAM will really be @ 415Mhz times two, and your FSB will be 415Mhz times FOUR.

So, 415:415 gives you 1:1. I hope this made sense, if not, keep asking questions!

I knew NOTHING about RAM a month ago. I am just gettin' the hang of it.
Also- keep those timings @ 5. You'll need it looser to maintain stability with your RAM OC'd. You may be able to tighten them after.
Also keep in mind you may need to up your RAM voltage to keep it stable @ 415Mhz, but I doubt it. You are already at 2.2v on them anyway, and it is a very minor OC. DDR2-800 can go beyond DDR-1000 speeds if you have good ram.

PS- I am running a 5:8 divider so don't go by my rigs setup lol.
The 5:8 is letting me run the RAM @ stock speeds and gives me a slight performance boost.


so for my system to run at 3 Ghz... i need to set my bios to 1333Mhz
FSB = 1333/4 = 333Mhz
so my ram is ddr so it runs at 666Mhz?
cpu = 333 (FSB) x (my multiplier) 9 = 3 Ghz

you can update your bois after you install window from a program that comes with the board? How do you revert? (take out battery?) do i need to back up bios on usb drive?

where do you actually make changes for your FSB and memory timings (the over clocking process)? (bios at startup or windows program?)

do i need to mess with memory timings? where should i start? just mess with FSB? not vcore voltage setting?

i'll share my results as i progres =)


----------



## carey8

Some one with a C2D 6300, can youi give me your voltages please.


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:


Originally Posted by *carey8* 
Some one with a C2D 6300, can youi give me your voltages please.

interesting...what is your multiplier set to?
try a higher multiplier with a lower FSB
or try a lower multiplier with a higher FSB
try both.
it shouldn't be taking 1.6vcore anyways to get to 3.2ghz...
hmm...just leave your timings on auto for now...
try that n let us know.
D~


----------



## carey8

isn't the multiplier locked on the C2D range?


----------



## gtboi604

i thought c2d had unlocked multi's?
maybe im wrong?
D~


----------



## carey8

Its only ont he XE's they are unlocked to go higher. I can go UP TO 7 but not over it.
Ive tried going to 6. Doesnt like it.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



so for my system to run at 3 Ghz... i need to set my bios to 1333Mhz
FSB = 1333/4 = 333Mhz
so my ram is ddr so it runs at 666Mhz?
cpu = 333 (FSB) x (my multiplier) 9 = 3 Ghz

you can update your bois after you install window from a program that comes with the board? How do you revert? (take out battery?) do i need to back up bios on usb drive?

where do you actually make changes for your FSB and memory timings (the over clocking process)? (bios at startup or windows program?)

do i need to mess with memory timings? where should i start? just mess with FSB? not vcore voltage setting?

i'll share my results as i progres =)


Your FSB @ 333 will cause your RAM to run at DDR2-666 w/ a 1:1 divider.
You have until FSB 400 before you can't go anywhere with the 1:1 unless you overclock your RAM (which you will do)
I have used the EZFlash in the bios to upgrade, generally windows bios things are not good. Keep a backup of the 2020 bios ( i think its 2020?)

Make all your changes in your BIOS.
When you set it, your FSB will say 1333 and your RAM should say 666.
If you keep it linked (@ 1:1) when you go to 1333FSB it will automatically set the DDR speed.

Don't just set it to 1333 though! You have to go slowly higher and when you get instability, bump your VCORE. Best to find out what your chip is supposed to run at stock (vcore, ram, nb etc)

PS I still have no INTERNET!
I am on a friends PC, I can use my cellphone but it sucks for this site!
PC was running fine @ 1:30am. Shut down. Go to bed.
Wake up @ 8, boot up... no internet. "Limited or no connectivity"
Modem looks fine. All lights are right and Link light working.
Reset modem anyway. Many times.
Even uninstalled/reinstalled driver for Nvidia network controller.
Still nothing.
Comcast said its my "network card".
Device manager says its running properly.

WTH is going on! My friends PC on comcast has done this before, but it fixed within 10 hours by itself... and I think his might have been router related, I don't have a router!


----------



## carey8

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 

Make all your changes in your BIOS.
When you set it, your FSB will say 1333 and your RAM should say 666.
If you keep it linked (@ 1:1) when you go to 1333FSB it will automatically set the DDR speed.


You say the Ram should show at like 666Mhz on that system, when i go it in my Bios is hows at the FSB speed of my Processor. After ir un a 1:1 divder, it doesnt boot at all.


----------



## carey8

Rigbht ive tried mroe or less everything i know.

I nee dmroe help please.


----------



## dpawl31

Little sidenote- was not my onboard ethernet w/o internet. Was my ISP. Jerks. lol.

I am up and running again!


----------



## carey8

Good to hear. 
Apprently i need to get active cooling on my NB and cooling on my SB to go higher than 2.9Ghz.

Bull**** or not?


----------



## dpawl31

Very possible... NB/SB may be unstable causing it.
You are over a 50% overclock... that is huge man, be happy!


----------



## 021411

Hey guys I'm stumped on what to do next. I'm totally new to OC'ing. I got my rig up and running yesterday and began tweaking it. Seems like I am hitting a wall.

I can't get past 2.4GHz by adjusting the FSB setting in BIOS. I have it set to 1099 with the voltage at the default setting. When I set the FSB to 1100 and even bump up Vcore, it won't load. I tried Vcore all the way up to 1.6 with no luck.

Here's my CPU-Z info. What else can I do? I'm shooting for 3.0GHz or a little less. Is there anything else I can change?
I'm running an E4300 processor with 2 gigs of Corsair XMS2 DDR2 5400 (PC2 675).


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
crap. i cant get online im on my cell right now. Limited Or No Connectivity. called comcast and They Blamed My Network Card. I Cant Get An I P Number. Modem Is Fine. It Was Fine Last Night Then I Turn It On This Morning And This Happens. What The Hell!

Man, ALWAYS lie and tell them you've tried "several" different NIC cards.









cg


----------



## Digikid

I am in the same boat as 021411.

I want to get the P5N-E and use my new E4300 in it. Since this CPU is supposed to be one hell of a overclocker I was hoping to get at least 3.5GHZ out of it.


----------



## 021411

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


I am in the same boat as 021411.

I want to get the P5N-E and use my new E4300 in it. Since this CPU is supposed to be one hell of a overclocker I was hoping to get at least 3.5GHZ out of it.


I did some more tweaking this evening. I actually got it to 3.6 but backed off. Didn't really test it for stability but it did boot up just fine. I have it right now at 3.1 MHz (what I was shooting for). 
I ended up tweaking the memory voltage and bumping up the Vcore. I'll update this post in the morning after extensive testing for errors. I'll post my settings at that time. I'm pretty excited. Although not the best benchmark program OCCT is showing it to be stable on the 30 min test. My temps are rock solid.

CPU-Z Validation.. Let me know. 
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=169523


----------



## Digikid

Well I have never overclocked ANYTHING before....this will be my first. But I do know that there is a way to overclock JUST your CPU and not your ram....which is what I want to do since I have DDR2800mhz ram.

I am SUCH a n00b at this. LOL!!!


----------



## 021411

8 hours into Orthos Beta without any problems! Woohoo!
Don't worry Digikid.. I'm still new at this too. Yesterday was the first time ever for me to OC. Just go slow and pay attention to temps and such. A few more hours and I will get my settings from BIOS.. I'll save the profile too since it's running well (as of now).


----------



## dpawl31

I love the profiles.
I save each OC on profile 2, then every time I get a stable one I save it to profile 1.

Quote:



But I do know that there is a way to overclock JUST your CPU and not your ram....which is what I want to do since I have DDR2800mhz ram.


As far as that goes, to keep stable you should generally run a 1:1 divider. 
So if your FSB is 200, your RAM should be @ 200 (BIOS will read 800 for FSB and 400 for RAM, your RAM will be 1/2 underclocked.)

Digikid, I don't know much about the E4300. What is the stock FSB, and is your multi locked or unlocked?

Your maximum OC to keep your RAM at it's fastest rated speed, at a 1:1 divider, without OCing your RAM, your FSB will be at 400. At that speed with the 9x multi, you will reach 3.6Ghz. (400FSB times 9 = 3600Mhz) And your RAM will be running @ 400Mhz as well (there's your 1:1 divider, 400:400, your bios will read FSB 1600 and your RAM will read 800, your max non-overclocked RAM speed)

To attain higher than 3.6Ghz (if your chip is not already too hot) You will either need a different multi, if it is unlocked, or overclock your RAM (which most people end up doing!) Your RAM is basically the same as mine.
In fact, I can't believe how many people have the OCZ Gold/Plat. DDR2-800 chips! So many. I suggest you get the 4xxx series BIOS so you can OC your RAM properly.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



DDR2800mhz ram.


Sorry, meant to touch base on this. 
It is not 800Mhz, CPUZ will show you 400Mhz for the RAM when it is at it's max stock speed, DDR2-800. DDR is dual data rate, so when you set it to 800 in the bios remember it is doubled already, meaning it is actually at 400Mhz times two.

Intel chips are quad pumped, so a stock FSB on my chip is 800, which has been quad pumped from the 200FSB really.


----------



## 021411

Okay, for my OC here's what I changed in the bios settings. Nothing else was touched. I'm using the latest update.

ADVANCED menu

Chipset
-Spread Spectrum Control
-CPU Spectrum: disabled
-PCIE Spectrum: disabled

JumperFree Configuration
-AI Tuning: Manual
-Voltage Control
-Vcore: 1.56250v
-Memory: 1.920v
FSB + Memory Configuration
-FSB Memory Clock Mode: unlinked
-FSB (QDR) MHz: 1400

That's pretty much all I changed on my computer. As with anything, your mileage may vary.


----------



## Digikid

I think I understand.

So all I have to do is put the muilti ( unlocked 9 ) to 9 and thats it? Nothing else?


----------



## 021411

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


I think I understand.

So all I have to do is put the muilti ( unlocked 9 ) to 9 and thats it? Nothing else?


You need to change the FSB also. It was confusing to me at first.
The multiplier should already be set to 9 in the bios.

I changed the FSB to 1400. The processor whatever is quad pumped. So 1400/4 is 350. Since the multiplier is 9, 9x350= 3150. That's the MHz and that's what my computer is on.

Since you are shooting for 3500 MHz, you'll need to change your FSB to at least 1560. 1560/4 = 390, 9x390 = 3510 MHz.

It's not going to work that easy. You'll have to adjust the Vcore and quite possibly the memory voltage and maybe making memory timing adjustments (I left that on Auto).


----------



## Digikid

*Brain Explodes*

I am confused. LOL!!!


----------



## 021411

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


*Brain Explodes*

I am confused. LOL!!!


LOL Welcome to my world. I had to figure stuff out. When you get to the bios screen go the Advanced tab on top. When you select that you should see some items. Select JumperFree Configuration. You should see more options. Change AI Tuning to manual and it should unlock the rest. 
You should see Voltage Control and FSB+Memory Config. Each one has it's own adjustments.
I started first by changing the FSB (QDR) MHz. That's where you need to input 1560. More than likely it won't boot up. You'll now have to tweak your settings. That's the fun part. Lots and lots of resets. My earlier post showed what I changed before making all these adjustments.


----------



## Digikid

Can you do me a HUGE favor? The BIOS chip on this board....is it in a Socket or is it onboard....I think that i may go the safe route and get a Bios Saviour for it. LOL.

What are your ram timings at right now? Since my ram is slightly more powerful than yours will I need to adjust that any?


----------



## 021411

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


Can you do me a HUGE favor? The BIOS chip on this board....is it in a Socket or is it onboard....I think that i may go the safe route and get a Bios Saviour for it. LOL.

What are your ram timings at right now? Since my ram is slightly more powerful than yours will I need to adjust that any?


I have the slightest idea about the bios chip.









I left my timing on Auto since I still don't know how to mess with it. Loose settings, tighter settings.. 
From CPU-Z it's showing 5-5-5-31 2T. Whatever the hell that means.


----------



## 021411

Anyone running SpeedFan with your board? I'm trying to figure out what temp reading is what..

Temp1 = CPU
Temp2 = MB
Temp3 = Northbridge ??? <--unsure
HD0 = hard drive

Am I correct?


----------



## Digikid

either NB or GPU I think.


----------



## dpawl31

02... we need a real name for you so I am gonna call you 02. lol.
I think THIS is your RAM.

If not, find your RAM for me. But that ram is set for 4-4-4-12. Your timings need to be set manually for best performance. AUTO settings kind of suck, generally on all boards.

Digikid, I think THIS is yours. Your timings are 4-5-4-15. Manually set yours as well.

Keep in mind, I did not know your setups, ie 1GB/2GB, dual kit or single sticks, etc. So if this is not your RAM, for either of you, FIND your RAM and set the correct timings.

Also keep in mind - the timings are for max rated speed, ie DDR2-800 @ 4-5-4-15 Can run DDR2-667 4-4-4-13 or something like that. But they will also run underclocked (DDR2-667 or what not) with the looser timings (4-5-4-15)

I suggest finding your correct RAM and set the timings to factory, no matter what your speed is. That way it is guaranteed stable. (sort of haha)

As far as the BIOS, I think it is socket type but that may have been my old board. My system, right now it too hard to get to to look lol.

If you guys want any help with this stuff, my AIM is dpawl31. (You can use the AIM logo under my REP score on the left)


----------



## 021411

Yep, that's the memory I have. Do I switch the 2T or 1T function too?


----------



## dpawl31

That's up to you to test... most reviews have said this board HATES 1T, but it may have been fixed with the bios updates.. I am still running stock bios.

I turned on my AIM if you guys want to chitchat.


----------



## 021411

One more question and off I go to change settings..
My bank cycle time is set on Auto. Is there anything I should try or just leave it alone? I have no idea what it does.


----------



## dpawl31

Leave all the other stuff auto.
Bank Cycle, and all additional settings.

Just set basic 4-4-4-12 2T or whatever your settings should be.
As far as I know, everything else runs in conjunction with the timings you set.


----------



## Digikid

Actually you are ALMOST right. Mine is a Revision 2.

 THIS  is my RAM.

The 2GB Dual Channel Kit.


----------



## 021411

Changed the memory timing. So far so good. I don't notice any difference yet. I ran 1 hour of OCCT. Test came back stable.

New question. What temps are you guys getting on the Northbridge?


----------



## dpawl31

No clue... can't open case to feel it.
Has anyone verified where the MB temp sensor is? Is it in the NB?


----------



## Digikid

It is in the BIOS I think.


----------



## 021411

Well bios shows CPU and MB. On SpeedFan it shows 4 temps. I think one of them might be the northbridge. Well whatever it's reading it's showing to be steady around 24c. I just want to make sure that's what it is.


----------



## dpawl31

NB/SB don't have sensors. Read a review somewhere that said they are waiting for aftermarket sensors for the NB/SB. 24C is probably your HDD.


----------



## Digikid

yep....that is your HDD temp. My 250 is the exact same as yours and it is around that temp as well.


----------



## dpawl31

Did a little research...
The 25C you are seeing is your ambient temp... the temp of the interior of the case. 95% sure. If you can prove otherwise let me know.

Relabeled my temps and such...

My idle temp is usually around 37C... but I bumped the heat up to 72 instead of 70 today b/c its cold out!


----------



## dpawl31

In response to "is the BIOS socketed"...

Found this in SandaLite


----------



## 021411

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Did a little research...
The 25C you are seeing is your ambient temp... the temp of the interior of the case. 95% sure. If you can prove otherwise let me know.

Relabeled my temps and such...

My idle temp is usually around 37C... but I bumped the heat up to 72 instead of 70 today b/c its cold out!


Cool! Thanks for the info.


----------



## crazy_gt

hey guys i'm using a d915 for my p5n-e sli, i'm thing to upgrade my cpu. should i get e4300, e6300, e6400 or e6600? right now i'm using 2Gb ocz platium ver2 ram. i'm a noob for overclocking, which cpu should i get? btw i'm using zalman 9500 for cooling.


----------



## gtboi604

the sensor isnt NB, the sensor is located in between the PCI-e slots.
Read it somewhere.


----------



## Digikid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
In response to "is the BIOS socketed"...

Found this in SandaLite

Awesome! Bios Saviour here I come! +rep for that.


----------



## jaihenwood

i'm building my computer tonight =)

nice to see 021411 get 3 Ghz very easy =)


----------



## Perry

Ok, this wedding is getting in the way of my hardware addiction!

The more I read about this board, the more I want to pick one up. The only problem is I'd be making the jump from AGP and DDR to PCI-E and DDR2. Then there's the power supply issue since I'd need more juice.

ARG!

Why must I be so addicted?


----------



## Digikid

I feel your pain....and Congratulations on the wedding!


----------



## dpawl31

OK I will throw this out there since I was the one who started this thread, lol.

I was in the same damn boat as you Perry.
I went out and bought an AsRock 775DUAL-VSTA to solve my problem.

Offers DDR/DDR2, AGP8x/PCI-E16x(4x electrical) and LGA 775. Also Vista compliant.

Got it - threw in my awesome Patriot 1GB kit, a PD820 (The one I have now) and my old GeForce 4 ti4400 128MB.

Random reboots ALL the time. Every time I used IE, a game, even the freakin calculator.

Figured it was my POS PSU (hah)

Bought my X-Finity 600W SLI Ready PSU for $80 on Tigerdirect.com.

Stopped reboots... for a while. Then did the same thing, just took longer because instead of the PSU it was the board having conflictions with my other hardware.

What I learned- Mixed upgrade boards, ie DDR and DRR2 and AGP/PCI-E...
Great idea... just not feasible.

I think there is too much "going on" with that style of board, too much work involved in it, and it doesn't allow good compatibility because it is designed mostly to run the old stuff, and a few new "slots" added.

Decided to screw that board, got online- researched for about 2 weeks.
(On my old Shuttle AS45 SIS chipset board and my Celeron 2.8Ghz! Hah)

This rig, other than the CD/DVD/HDD/Case is what I came up with.
MAN do I love it.
1333FSB rated, SLI Ready, Quad Core Ready, oh yeah and it's an ASUS.









I am estimating $500 shipped for the board, PSU, Video and RAM.
Assuming you are going mid-range with everything.

Tell the "wifey" you'll make that five-hundo back if you invite more guests







haha
We have about 100 coming to ours in October, I am hoping for at least $1,000 cash lol.
Damn wedding is going to be nearly $10k with honeymoon and rings included.


----------



## dpawl31

Well then! I just looked at my USER CP to see any threads I haven't responded too yet, and saw 4 new REPS for me! I wish I knew who did it lol, it doesn't tell you, just which post you receieved it from.

Thanks guys!


----------



## Perry

I had an Asrock board but the thing went fizzle for shizzle 2 months into it so I opted to go for the slightly more expensive P5PE-VM. I shot myself in the foot on that one because there are NO overclocking options on it.

I should have gone for the P4800. Ahh well. Chances are I'd have fried my CPU with voltages before I knew what I was doing.

Good thing I came here.

So the moral of the story is, I'm ******ed and Asrock is garbage.


----------



## Digikid

I gave you some rep dpawl...for the BIOS Socket post and the one that you told me how to do it.

You deserved it.


----------



## trekman

I just bought some more ram 4 gig of Gskill now it wont post.... I dont think it the Ram Im running the newest Bios,

anyone know what I should do?


----------



## dpawl31

#1 Try black slots... unless you are running 4 sticks lol.
In that case, run only two sticks in black, and none in yellow.
If they work, test the other 2.

#2 Did you manually enter timings AND 2T?
Are you still running an overclock? If so reset to stock, test, then redo 
overclock from the beginning.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

well guys i am @ 4.3GHz now!!! woot woot















i could not get my pc to windows loading screen @ 4.1GHz..... :***:














no matter what vcore i had it at....
i figured F**K it ill fry my $h!t b4 i settle for 4.0GHz!!!!!






















now my configs
4.3GHz
1075 FSB
1.49 vcore
1:1 ratio

im gona try to go further later ill keep u all posted








now i NEED to know what NB stock voltage is and what u guys have it set at??

thx guys
steve


----------



## dpawl31

Awesome job man, now get some pics and get yourself in the 4Ghz club!
I don't know the stock NB voltage, but I will look it up after I eat (just got dinner, w00t!)

What did you do to get it past 4.0? Just jump to 4.3? Or up your ram voltage or what?


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Awesome job man, now get some pics and get yourself in the 4Ghz club!
I don't know the stock NB voltage, but I will look it up after I eat (just got dinner, w00t!)

What did you do to get it past 4.0? Just jump to 4.3? Or up your ram voltage or what?


thx
umm i had the plan of frying my pc just to see what it had....















i have 2 backup PC's (my bro left his here, and my old HP......junk) so wth fry it!!!!!!!
plus i get paid friday but i was planing on getting a video card but i would have bought another P5N-E SLi and e6600 if i had to (it would have gave me a reason to get the e6600







if i fryed mine







....)
it did not want to boot at 4.1 so i jumped to 4.2 with 1.44 vcore it booted then i went to 4.3 with 1.5 vcore both were stable. but my game(Americas Army) kept getting cridical error (invalid cpu....) so i put it bact to 4.2 now its just fine on my game.
everthing is on auto except cpu & ram Frequencey's, vcore, and that thing the stops the vcore from going higher than stock....

lol i have not messed with the ram timings or vdimm at all......yet









i opened my game and entered a server it normaly takes 30seconds to load a server(@3.2) but i did it in about 4 seconds @4.3









when i up my FSB i go in 25's FSB (.1GHz)
woot woot

thx again 
steve


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k!D$*W/*gUN$*


well guys i am @ 4.3GHz now!!! woot woot















i could not get my pc to windows loading screen @ 4.1GHz..... :***:














no matter what vcore i had it at....
i figured F**K it ill fry my $h!t b4 i settle for 4.0GHz!!!!!






















now my configs
4.3GHz
1075 FSB
1.49 vcore
1:1 ratio

im gona try to go further later ill keep u all posted








now i NEED to know what NB stock voltage is and what u guys have it set at??

thx guys
steve


Yeah, but does it stay stable is the question. Run Prime95 on each of the cores for 8 hours or so. If it's stable, get to some ******ed gamin'!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

everthing is on auto except cpu & ram Frequencey's, vcore, and that thing the stops the vcore from going higher than stock....

lol i have not messed with the ram timings or vdimm at all......yet
Christ! You have the RAM on Auto?
Get to setting those timings! If your RAM is OC'd for the current setup, you may need to use looser timings than stock ram settings.
Also, vDIMM should be manually set as well.

Oh, and PCI video, not PCIE? Holy CRAP! haha.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Run Prime95 on each of the cores for 8 hours or so.
Just use Orthos. One program, works for both cores.

(I attached it)

I love playing with Orthos, and I also love my Freezer!
Ran Orthos w/o my Freezer fan running, got up to 60C
Killed Orthos and maxxed out fan speed. Dropped to 37C Idle temp in 120 seconds!


----------



## jaihenwood

just like everyone said....went from 1.8 ghz to 3 ghz just by changing the FSB....

=)

in the program core temp beta - what is Tjunction temp? its at 85C? core0=22C core1=22C

i'm running Orthos core temp is 40C on Core temp Beta and only 37C on PC Probe 2.

what other programs are good? Prime95?

i have cpu-z, core temp Beta, tat(But it won't start up...), Orthos


----------



## xlr8

Which board is this thread about? ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus or the plain ASUS P5N32-E SLI ?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



what other programs are good? Prime95?

i have cpu-z, core temp Beta, tat(But it won't start up...), Orthos


TAT won't start? That's wierd. I have no use for TAT because my CPU doesn't have a second core temp sensor...DUMB! lol.

Orthos IS Prime95 made for dual core...

Whatever you have running @ 85C I think it is wrong... if not, find out what it is. LoL. That is TOO HOT for ANYTHING. That is 185F!

Quote:



Which board is this thread about? ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus or the plain ASUS P5N32-E SLI ?


Neither. It is the P5N-E SLI in the title.

The P5N32-E SLI Plus offers full 16x SLI support with the 650i chipset, as well as a 3rd PCI-E x8 for physics cards.

The P5N32-E SLI normal also has the same as above, except with 680i chipset.

Both the above offer dual lan jacks, but who the heck needs that in a home setting?

The P5N32-E SLI Plus is $70 more than the P5N-E.
The standard P5N32-E SLI is $120 more for the 680i chipset!

Both of those boards only allow 1 IDE channel, 2 devices.

P5N-E 650i offers 2 channels with support for 4 devices while still offering support for 4 internal and 1 external SATA II 3.0GB/s drives.

The P5N-E SLI 650i makes me feel like I am stealing and "stickin it to da man."


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

sry but im a noob can some1 tell me how to take a screen shot of my desktop?









thx
steve


----------



## jaihenwood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k!D$*W/*gUN$*


sry but im a noob can some1 tell me how to take a screen shot of my desktop?









thx
steve


the "print screen" key on your key board
then open paint and goto edit and paste 
save as JPG! no bit map!

thats it

note: alt+print screen just grabs the window your using


----------



## dpawl31

Hold alt and hit the PrtScr (print screen button) 
Don't expect anything to happen lol, it copies it to clipboard.

Go into paint, paste it, save it as a JPG to save space (huge if saved as BMP)
You can also take individual shots of windows like CPUZ and what not by clicking the title bar first, then alt prtscr and paste. 
That is my favorite cause it looks clean!


----------



## dpawl31

Hey jaihenwood, if you ever think of selling that BFG tech send it my way








I would love to SLI it.

If you just bought yours, nevermind. lol.
Newegg has them for a good rebate right now, I just don't have the cash.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hold alt and hit the PrtScr (print screen button) 
Don't expect anything to happen lol, it copies it to clipboard.

Go into paint, paste it, save it as a JPG to save space (huge if saved as BMP)
You can also take individual shots of windows like CPUZ and what not by clicking the title bar first, then alt prtscr and paste. 
That is my favorite cause it looks clean!


thank you very much
+REP 4 the help<<<< glad its free









steve


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

quickie of the 4.3 & 4.2 (4.3 should have more vcore like 1.5)


----------



## dpawl31

Now all you have to do is:
Run Orthos for 8+ hours.
Have CPUZ Open on MAIN TAB
Have another CPUZ Open on MEMORY TAB
Take a screen of all 3 windows, with Orthos still running.

Not sure where the 4Ghz club link is... but post the pic here for now!
Oh yeah and if you are 3.2 to 4.2 you can be in the 1Ghz OC Club as well!


----------



## jaihenwood

now i'm having problems...trying to go up from 3 ghz...and now whenever i change anything in bios and try to reboot nothing happens. i guess this means i entered something wrong? so i go back to where i was and it won't work...i can't change anything now =/ i can't get 2 ghz...


----------



## dpawl31

What is your current setup like? Vcore all the way to mem timings.
That will help a lot.


----------



## jaihenwood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *021411*


Okay, for my OC here's what I changed in the bios settings. Nothing else was touched. I'm using the latest update.

ADVANCED menu

Chipset
-Spread Spectrum Control
-CPU Spectrum: disabled
-PCIE Spectrum: disabled

JumperFree Configuration
-AI Tuning: Manual
-Voltage Control
-Vcore: 1.56250v
-Memory: 1.920v
FSB + Memory Configuration
-FSB Memory Clock Mode: unlinked
-FSB (QDR) MHz: 1400

That's pretty much all I changed on my computer. As with anything, your mileage may vary.


wow i did this an it came up fine....this is the first time i have over clocked. is it really that touchy? is it like magic numbers? hah i don't understand =)

oh well i'll keep playing with it =)


----------



## jaihenwood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


What is your current setup like? Vcore all the way to mem timings.
That will help a lot.


i'm changing it all over the place =) from what i read on different forums

i just need to watch the temp right? and i should be ok?

right now i'm at 44C max load on ORTHOS at 3.150 Ghz


----------



## dpawl31

I was just asking your current #'s so we could help but apparently you got it.
Make sure you run Orthos for at least half hour to test temps.

Once it seems stable after half hour, run it to 8+ hours, as long as you are happy with your OC.


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Run Orthos for 8+ hours.



well i was gona do Orthos but.........
lmao an error in the first 17 seconds








i just read the RAM 101 (Intel systems in particular) & RAM Timing Explained alot of help there!!!!!
i will set my timings and vdimm after work tomorrow with the 4.3GHz (or more














may be shoot for 4.5)
but i g2g to bed







peace out yall

steve


----------



## jaihenwood

i think my problem is i've read that 1:1 linked memory is better but it seems to be easier to over clock (so far) if i unlink the memory.

i'm off to bed enough for tonight i'm at 3.375 Ghz im happy
vcore at 1.5 
Rated FSB = 1500 MHz
my memory Frequency is 400Mhz (800 Mhz in bios setting) now my memroy should handle double this right? it should beable to keep up with the FSB and be linked 1:1?


----------



## dpawl31

If you link your memory, you'll be running 375Mhz. (DDR2-750, that is your BIOS #)

No your memory can not handle double that. That would be DDR2-1600, which doesn't exist lol.

You can however OC your RAM... which will be when you go over 400FSB with the CPU and 400Mhz RAM (800 BIOS)

DDR is Double Data Rate, which is why your 400Mhz is really DDR2-800

It isn't the fact linked or unlinked, its the 1:1 ratio. Your FSB is at 375 which if you run linked 1:1, so will your RAM. This will give you stability, instead of your 375:400 divider... which is really a 15:16 divider. Very close to 1:1 which is why you have go so far already. If this is your max OC for your CPU, leave it at 15:16 because running your ram faster than CPU gives you a slight performance boost. I am running 5:8, but I haven't found my max OC for my CPU yet and I run stable at 5:8.


----------



## exnihilo

I'm running (very) stable at:

cg


----------



## jaihenwood

should exnihilo be running command rate 1T or 2T?

another note about this board is the Hyper 6+ back plate doesn't fit. but you can use the platic washers and it still mounts just puts preasure on the board. so i'm just going to keep my Mother board flat.


----------



## jaihenwood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *http://www.overclock.net/overclock.php?file=articles/overclocking-guide.htm*


Finding the max FSB for your motherboard:
1) Insure you have good or sufficient cooling for your CPU!

2) Boot into your BIOS settings.

3) Lower your multiplier to a low setting (5-8).

4) Raise your memory timings, and/or change your CPU/memory ratio so that your memoryâ€™s FSB is always at/below itâ€™s rated speed. This should insure that your memory wonâ€™t be limiting your FSB, just your mobo.

5) Disable useless BIOS features (depends on your mobo, but CPU speed spectrum, throttling are common ones).

6) Increase your moboâ€™s voltage (vdd) as high as you safely can. Most motherboards donâ€™t allow you to increase your vdd more than is safe (1.6v-1.7v or higher w/ a decent northbridge heatsink). When in doubt search Google.

7) Increase your system FSB to 10-15mhz above itâ€™s rated speed. Always make sure your PCI bus speed isnâ€™t too high before you SAVE and exit your BIOS.

8) Then see if you can boot into your operating system. If your computer boots into your OS, and doesnâ€™t restart, or lock-up, increase the FSB by another 10-15mhz.

9) Continue until your computer reboots unexpectedly, or locks-up. When this happens go back into your BIOS and lower your FSB by maybe 5mhz and try again (if that doesnâ€™t work, lower it some more).

10) If you tried a FSB high enough, you may not be able to get back into your BIOS to lower your settings. In this case, you have to use the jumper located near the battery and CMOS chip of your motherboard. Move the jumper from its current pins, to the only other possible position. Then after about 5 seconds, move it back to itâ€™s original location. If you donâ€™t have one of these jumpers, take out your battery for 1 hour or so and then put it back in. You will now be back at default settings. So you must reset everything to where you were just before you hit trouble.

11) Once you are back into your OS open prime95 (which you have already downloaded and installed from here). Then start the â€œtorture test.â€ This will test your system for stability. Since weâ€™re only testing out the mobo, once torture test has ran continuously for 4 hours with zero errors/reboots/lock-ups, your FSB is stable. If you get an error or crash, lower your FSB by 1mhz or 2mhz. When running the torture test, check your CPU's temperature. It shouldnâ€™t be above 45C MAX since you lowered your multiplier and is probably running below stock clock speed. As mentioned earlier use a program like MotherBoard Monitor to monitor your uhh... motherboard.

12) You now know and can now write down your motherboardâ€™s max FSB


has anyone tried this? this is really first step right?


----------



## trekman

My PC still wont boot with 4Gb of ram "4 sticks of 1Gb Ram" its not the ram its the Bios. some guy is also having the same problem on the Asus forum. I hope Asus fix this problem soon. I installed Vista and its a Memory hog thats why I want to install 4GB of ram


----------



## Digikid

Wrong thread dude...I think....ah well.

Now I am scared to overclock. Is it really worth it?


----------



## k!D$*W/*gUN$

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Digikid* 
Wrong thread dude...I think....ah well.

Now I am scared to overclock. Is it really worth it?

fo sho, its worth it!!!!!!

steve


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

I'm running (very) stable at:
Yeah I am not saying dividers besides 1:1 are unstable.
1:1 just offers best stability during the OC process. That way you know it isn't your divider causing the instability.

Can I ask why your RAM is not running @ 400Mhz? What prompted 391mhz?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

My PC still wont boot with 4Gb of ram "4 sticks of 1Gb Ram" its not the ram its the Bios. some guy is also having the same problem on the Asus forum. I hope Asus fix this problem soon. I installed Vista and its a Memory hog thats why I want to install 4GB of ram
As far as I know, your OS must be 64 bit to recognize anything over 3GB or RAM. I believe all 32BIT OS's won't recognize anything past 3GB.

Try just 3GB...


----------



## trekman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


As far as I know, your OS must be 64 bit to recognize anything over 3GB or RAM. I believe all 32BIT OS's won't recognize anything past 3GB.

Try just 3GB...


Im Running Vista 64 so it would see it. my problem is it wont even post when it start the computer. it gets stuck on the bios screen . Asus told me I need to update to bios 0702 that bios is not for our motherboard.

it looks like it a voltage problem.

Im adding 2 more GB because Vista is a memory hog it was running 50% with 2GB with no apps running


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Im adding 2 more GB because Vista is a memory hog it was running 50% with 2GB with no apps running


Me stickey with Ex Pee.

LoL


----------



## Digikid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


As far as I know, your OS must be 64 bit to recognize anything over 3GB or RAM. I believe all 32BIT OS's won't recognize anything past 3GB.

Try just 3GB...


That is only true with XP...Vista however will see up tp 16MB...that goes for 32 AND 64 Bit versions.


----------



## dpawl31

Ahhhh, I was going to say why would they do that with Vista if it loves memory so much.


----------



## xlr8

Is anybody using any after market NB or SB coolers? If so...what?


----------



## dpawl31

So I started some more OCing today... with my lack of case cooling and lack of NB/SB updating...

Got my 2.8 from 3.5 to 3.64Ghz.
Ran Orthos, got an error @ 17 seconds, went out and upped vcore to 1.35v.
Is it me or is there WAY TOO MANY voltage settings lol.
I hear about guys running 1.5v etc... that's like a million notches up!
Anyway, Orthos ran almost 12 minutes w/ 1.35v then error stopped again.
Don't have time right now to go further but I think a little more vcore and I'll get 3.7Ghz.

Once I get my new 80mm fans (better CFM) and my 120mm, as well as NB/SB combo coolers... I will be off to 4Ghz! (Oh I plan to reseat my CPU w/ AS5, I used AS Ceramique and it is a PAIN in the ARSE to spread, I hated it. Will go AS5 next time.

I will be getting my fans and stuff within a few weeks. Anybody up for a 4Ghz+ Pentium D 820?







I think I will be the first in this forum!

(I think I am going to use the +100mv vcore option... 1.35 volts is running 1.25v...)


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Is anybody using any after market NB or SB coolers? If so...what?
For the NB I am getting THIS. Wicked sale on it, $15! PURE copper HS w/ a fan... can't beat that, and its REAL low.

For the SB, THIS.
Nice and low, will clip in instead of stupid thermal adhesive.

I will be getting theses and some new fans to go for 4Ghz! (will be using AS5, not the crap stuff they send with the HS)


----------



## dpawl31

Only thing about that NB cooler.. I am not seeing the right type of clips for it to attach... maybe I have to use the pins I have on my current one?


----------



## dpawl31

Haha... threw an old 110v boxer fan, about 100mm, on top of my vent in my case, this thing is WICKED fast lol. Noisy as hell, makes my case sound like a wind tunnel. You know how my idle was about 40C @ 3.64Ghz?

With this fan running... I am down to 32C/46C Load. lmao! Guess fans really will make a difference in my system! I wonder what the CFM on this beast is, it's like 20 years old.

For the first time ever I feel HEAT coming out the back. HAH!


----------



## CitrusFizz

dpwal31, i have been reading all your comments.. pretty interesting..
i just built my new rig and i need some help over clocking.. i have the pretty much the same thing and trekman but i am so confused....

what is a good place to start for someone that hasn't ever done over clocking before?

i got the p5n-e sli motherboard cuz i herd it was decent at over clocking

first things first my memory is rated at (on the box) 4-4-4-12 my bios detect it at 5-5-5-31 i went into the bios to adjust this but when i did it wouldn't post.. and that was with out me changing and fsb or voltage just timings... i did however have to assume the first 4 settings in the bios to change it were the ones i was supposed to change... am i wrong??

anyways if anyone can point me and some good guides or have any good tips for over clocking that would be great

thanks!


----------



## Digikid

Try the new fans from a company called NOCTUA. They are silent and powerful. The fans put other companies like Cooler master and SilentX to SHAME. Ugly color though....

They also sell Chipset coolers using heatpipes. Again....dead silent and powerful.

I am going to review them soon.


----------



## xlr8

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
For the NB I am getting THIS. Wicked sale on it, $15! PURE copper HS w/ a fan... can't beat that, and its REAL low.

For the SB, THIS.
Nice and low, will clip in instead of stupid thermal adhesive.

I will be getting theses and some new fans to go for 4Ghz! (will be using AS5, not the crap stuff they send with the HS)

Thanks for your suggestions. Do you know if the NC-U6 or HR-05-SLI will fit this board?


----------



## dpawl31

The HR and HR SLI ones are really for the SB...
They say they are NB but if you look at the website they show them on the SB on the installations. 
The SLI one is designed with a slight angle to fit bigger SLI cards...

The NC-U6 would definately fit... its nice and thin. Would totally clear any CPU cooler.

Thanks for the info on those other fans I am going to look into them.


----------



## dpawl31

Wait, you have a DS3...

Are you GETTING a P5N-E? Or were you asking if these coolers would fit the DS3? If so you may want to go to the DS3 thread...


----------



## dpawl31

Got myself to 3.710Ghz now.

Think I am at my limit till I get more and better fans as well as reseat my CPU and new NB/SB HS's.

I could run that 110v fan, but it's so freaking loud lol.
I am worried about the temps so that's why I am stopping @ 3.7.

My load temp was about 62C and my proccessors "thermal design" is 64.1C... so I am STOPPING, lol. Anyone know if it is too hot to run 24/7?

Oh by the way, I freakin love this board








Obviously because I have a huge multi (x14) my FSB is real low, but still... so cool. I am running:

1.4v vCore (Intels specs say my proccessor requires 1.2-1.4v anyway, does that mean I am not even in the voltage danger zone yet?)

FSB 265Mhz 1060Mhz Effective. Memory timings now at 3-4-4-10 (w00t) but that is due to my RAM running @ 265Mhz (DDR2-530)

Haven't fully tested for stability but 20 mins in Orthos and I am good... will fully test tomorrow.


----------



## jaihenwood

my Vcore is set to 1.60 V but when i run orthos it drops to 1.50

how much should it change? that seems like a lot to me

i'm at 3.375 Ghz 1.6 Vcore 42C at max cpu


----------



## dpawl31

I am running 1.4v and it runs 1.28-1.34 while idling in windows.
I am going to try that +100mv thing in the bios, someday.. lol.

42C max, you bum. Damn your 65nm technology! lol


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Try the new fans from a company called NOCTUA. They are silent and powerful. The fans put other companies like Cooler master and SilentX to SHAME. Ugly color though....
Too bad I can't find a CFM rating for them...
Allthough I can't compare that since most companies lie or report bad data.
Same thing with noise levels...

I need to FEEL the air coming off the new fan I get, and I can't have it louder than my 7600GT fan on high. You think the Notua would pull it off?

PS I just posted in the rate my system thread... guy gave me a 6.5, ouch! Said I need more RAM and CPU upgrade. I said obv. I need more memory, but upgrade CPU? I have my $96 CPU running faster than the $350 D960! And it is dual core! Why upgrade now while most programs can't take advantage of dual core?


----------



## Danne980

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trekman*


My PC still wont boot with 4Gb of ram "4 sticks of 1Gb Ram" its not the ram its the Bios. some guy is also having the same problem on the Asus forum. I hope Asus fix this problem soon. I installed Vista and its a Memory hog thats why I want to install 4GB of ram


Just installed 4 gb and had problems booting, remove 2 sticks to get back into bios. Then set ram speed to 600mhz that worked for me (sux but atleast it works). I havnt tryed much diffrent speeds but even 650 was problem for me. I have 4x1gb Geil 6400 c5.
I have put three pcÂ´s together with this mobo the last days. Diffrent problems on all of them.
My own has a nb that gets smoking hot, 45c what ever i do. Other pc has 12C less even at stress test. And it aint the nb cooler that is mounted wrong because even the cooler is very hot.

/Danne


----------



## Digikid

Wait until I get my reviewers sample and then I will see what I can do for you.

www.noctua.at is the site.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

My own has a nb that gets smoking hot, 45c what ever i do. Other pc has 12C less even at stress test. And it aint the nb cooler that is mounted wrong because even the cooler is very hot.
Asus has been known to sometimes do a crappy job with the thermal paste on the NB... I took mine off in order to get my CPU cooler in properly and ended up reseating the NB with new thermal paste anyway, maybe you should try that.


----------



## jaihenwood

well i think i'm maxed out.

FSB = 372 (setting in bios 1488) (failed orthos at 1500 mhz) how high do you guys have your FSB up to? i have a 9 mult so i'm running at 3.348 Ghz
Vcore = 1.6 (as long as my temps are low its ok to run high vcore right?)
NB volt = the setting right below the max 1.56 i can't remember. where can you find the temp of NB and SB? everyone says they run hot... i have fans on them but i wanted to make sure they are ok before i up the volt more.
temp never over 42C with fan 100%
45C max with fan at 65%

Memory = 800 (400 mhz)
Mem Volt = auto
i set timing to factory setting = 4-4-4-12

i think i'll try to set the memory to 1:1 tonight see if i can get that to work.

the cpu-z vcore = 1.3v but the asus tool says 1.5v and fan speed says 1.5v. is cpu-z just wrong or is that the volt of something else?


----------



## dpawl31

Nicely done. Couple things:

Regarding 1:1, remember to manually enter the DDR2 #.
If you select 1:1 with linked in the BIOS, it will link it as 1488:1488 lol.
Your NB is probably another thing limiting OC, you have to "Feel" it to get the temp. You can add a temp sensor but why not just feel it?








Mem Voltage - change that! Auto set it to your REAL voltage for your RAM.
RAM voltages vary a lot, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1... the board could be giving it 1.9 and your RAM could require 2.1!
Regarding the vcore voltages- vdroop! Also, see if you have ver1.39 of CPUZ.
Alrighty I have to take a shower and get dressed in the next 4 minutes to get to work on time, whoops!


----------



## dailytoker

oh. my. god.

I just read this entire thread... my eyeballs hurt.

Anyways, what brought me to this was a search on setting up my ram. Everything in the rig runs perfectly, dont get me wrong... but when I ran CPU-z it was showing my memory as 400mhz. My question was answered I believe on the 2nd page about the math behind intel and their #'s. So ya, great read, great thread. keep it up guys! im building another system just like mine for a friend.


----------



## dailytoker

Oh yeah, one other thing I wanted to mention was the BSOD that i'm getting when shutting down or restarting.

DEBUG_USB_DRIVER

It usually happens when i'm doing a shut down. It will get through all save settings in windows then right before it powers down, BAM, there she is.

Any suggestions?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



oh. my. god.

I just read this entire thread... my eyeballs hurt.


Haha holy crap. I started this thread @ post #1 and now this is the 336th post. That's crazy! I can't believe you read the whole thing but I guess it is really worth it, so much info here. Someday soon I will go through the whole thing and edit the first posts to include everything there can possibly be in here.

Welcome to the thread dailytoker! (hah... thats kinda funny to say)

Quote:



Oh yeah, one other thing I wanted to mention was the BSOD that i'm getting when shutting down or restarting.

DEBUG_USB_DRIVER

It usually happens when i'm doing a shut down. It will get through all save settings in windows then right before it powers down, BAM, there she is.

Any suggestions?


Ouch... Blueeee SCREEN of DEATHHHHH (echo echo echo)
hah. Anyway. Did you uninstall the USB drivers and such?
Are you fully up to date in SP2 and what not?
If not, I suggest Windows Update till you are caught up, then uninstall drivers, reboot and let them reinstall themselves. Try shutting down again and if it still happens... come back here. lol

Again, welcome!

(PS I can't believe the percentage of people with those Platinum OCZ! I had a choice between gold and plat, HUGE rebate on the gold at the time... so guess what I got! hah OCZ seems to be REAL popular with this board!)


----------



## dailytoker

Yeah i've uninstalled each one in the device manager, restarted... but i have a usb keyboard and mouse









Although, I did test w/ PS/2 styles and was getting the same thing. It's not THAT big of a deal because i just hit the power button on the case and it shuts it down no biggie. but... you know how use perfectionists are. I even read somewhere to turn off the power management for the USB, which sometimes causes that. But... I still get it.

One thing that still kinda confuses me is the way the 800mhz ram is calculated in cpu-z. mine shows 400mhz @ 4-4-4-15, when i set it to 800 (fsb 1066) and manually set the timing. Didn't you say something about since it's DDR2 that it doubles in dual channel? iono, im headed to in-and-out to get some food so i'm ending this post NOW!

pz


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah I had the same problem with CPUZ and the 400Mhz thing. hah.
400Mhz is the PRE-DDR #. BIOS is the POST-DDR #.

Put it this way. It is running at 400Mhz, which in turn is pushing data through at 800Mhz speeds, but it is really 400Mhz. DDR2-800's stock speed IS 400Mhz. Just like DDR2-400 would really run at 200Mhz.

Wierd right? Then you got the CPU FSB @ 200, quad pumped to 800FSB, but it is running @ 2.8Ghz because you have a 14x multi. HAH! Stupid Intel and their math!


----------



## dpawl31

HOLY CRAP. hah
16GB HDD - $1359.00
Hyper Drive 4

Oh sorry, it's a FREAKIN DDR based hard drive.

Quote:

8000x faster at finding files than a 10,000 rpm SATA WD Raptor WD740ADFD
5500x faster at finding files than a 15,000 rpm SAS Seagate Savvio
125x faster at serving files than a WD Raptor, certainly the fastest SATA drive on the market.
90x faster at serving files than Seagate Savvio, possibly the fastest SAS drive on the market.
Gives the user an instant desktop.
CHRIST. lol

Man, can you imagine DDR3 based 400GB Hard drive, and the PRICE?
Imagine in 5 years, something like that costing $400. I'd buy it.
Says 4 seconds from Windows LOGO to full desktop. THAT IS REDICULOUS.


----------



## Digikid

whoa.....expensive!!!!


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Regarding 1:1, remember to manually enter the DDR2 #.
If you select 1:1 with linked in the BIOS, it will link it as 1488:1488 lol.

if you select *sync* mode then the ram speed (effective) will mirror your ACTUALL FSB speed not the effective speed so at 333fsb will give you 1333mhz effective FSB and 667mhz ram

one thing i would like to ask is does anyone know what the northbridge straps are? i can boot all day long at 1200+ fsb (tried up to 1334) but at 1156 its hit or miss and will not boot at all at 1100. 1066 boots about 95 percent of the time.

seems weird to me that i can boot so easy at higher speeds but have so much trouble near 1100fsb


----------



## dailytoker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Yeah I had the same problem with CPUZ and the 400Mhz thing. hah.
400Mhz is the PRE-DDR #. BIOS is the POST-DDR #.

Put it this way. It is running at 400Mhz, which in turn is pushing data through at 800Mhz speeds, but it is really 400Mhz. DDR2-800's stock speed IS 400Mhz. Just like DDR2-400 would really run at 200Mhz.

Wierd right? Then you got the CPU FSB @ 200, quad pumped to 800FSB, but it is running @ 2.8Ghz because you have a 14x multi. HAH! Stupid Intel and their math!

haha, makes you wonder if Intel was funding those commercials that were all over TV a few years back about "algebra, the cool thing to do".

HAHA.

But yeah, I'm glad I searched around a bit to find out about that 400mhz thing. I had read so many bad reviews about dumbasses on Newegg not getting their ram to work right (probably because they're noobs and didn't even put in all the motherboard screws). Anyways, I almost sent it back but realized I had thrown away the packaging. HA! Anyways, the machine runs like a champ.

200-250 FPS @ 1650x1050 with everything on HIGH in CS:S (even HDR)
150-200 FPS @ SAME in DOD:S

I put on the Battlefield 2142 demo and played that, and that too ran like a champ. Sadly, I dont have any buddies who play 2142, and playing it alone is boring. So i don't think ill be getting that game...

I did pick up Quake 4 @ Best Buy last night for $20. Installed it, paid for a second and turned it off. lol. Nothing beats Quake 2.

Blah I'm sick, and can't wait to leave work early


----------



## Paraleyes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *davek* 
ASUS site dosen't say it does just normal C2D?

What do people think about this compared to the P5B?

P5B is a great overclocker, but it only allows crossfire mode and not SLI.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



P5B is a great overclocker, but it only allows crossfire mode and not SLI.


Wow that was in reply to a post on the first page! hah.
Keep in mind this thread is for the P5N-E not P5N32-E. 
Just making sure you are not confusing it, since you seem to be new to OCN.
Nice rig by the way! Seriously nice rig! (cept that case? lol)


----------



## dpawl31

Looking up fans for myself on Newegg.
Check this guy out and tell me what you think of the temps.

Quote:



On max this thing has the power of a jet engine, but the noise of it too. I had built a box for my father but it was having heat problems while gaming. According to the mobo's bios, the case temp was hitting 112c+, with processor temps around 65c+ idle. Got two of these, replaced the mediocre case fans, and now the cpu idles at 12c! Not even kidding here, total overkill. Only real problem is the fans are way loud at max.


HAHA. Right! 12C idle? Thats roughly 53F, and 122C CASE temp? 251F? LMAO!


----------



## |talian $tallion

ok, i've come to the darkside
i'm used to amd so these intel overclocking options look greek to me

so could someone tell me the settings i would need to adjust to get my memory to 800mhz and my cpu to around 3.2ghz?

thanks


----------



## dpawl31

You won't want to set it right off the bat to 3.2
Start with 1:1.

Update the bios to newest version.

Manually enter timings for RAM, and all voltages you know (RAM, lowest vcore for your chip etc.)

You'll have to set jumper free thing to manual.

You'll want your RAM at whatever your stock FSB is. So if your FSB is 200 (800 effective) you'll want your RAM @ 200 (400 effective DDR2)

The settings in the bios for that would be 800 and 400.

It is 4AM and I am going to work.

*SUCK!*

When I get home I will help you as much as I can.









I suggest reading as much of this thread as you can, as it is FULL of everything you need to know








Good luck!


----------



## Digikid

4am and you are going to work NOW!?!?!?!

WTH do you do? LOL!!

I just got some better ram dpawl....will that help me any?


----------



## Paraleyes




----------



## |talian $tallion

thanks for the info

the stock voltage for my cpu is 1.35 and my ram is 2.1 is this correct?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

thanks for the info
Keep in mind, he posted the wrong board pics. Not quite sure why?

Anyway. Your e4300 should run 1.225V-1.325V @ stock speed.
( http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SL9TB )

Your RAM is designed to run 1.9v to 2.1v. Start at 1.9, if you get instability, up it. As you overclock you'll have to go higher.
( http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...2_dual_channel )

Quote:

4am and you are going to work NOW!?!?!?!

WTH do you do? LOL!!

I just got some better ram dpawl....will that help me any?
Starbucks. People like their coffee early, even on the weekend.

Not sure what you had for RAM before. That FLEX rams seems to be good stuff especially with 2GB at those timings. Is it DDR2-800? Also, watercooled, awesome









Definately good stuff.


----------



## jaihenwood

i'm having better luck dropping the mult on my E4300 to 8 with PC2 DDR2 6400 ram

that way you can sync the cpu and ram.

i'm at 1.47 Vcore (1.42 underload)
FSB 1600 (400)
Ram sync 800 (400)
ram volt 1.9 ( i bet i can go lower...)
NB 1.38

3.2 Ghz from 1.8 Ghz is great to me

and i can run my hyper 6+ fan at 60% (quite) and never get over 45C at full load.


----------



## |talian $tallion

alright I'm sitting at 3.2ghz with 1.4vcore and 33c idle with stock cooler,
x8 multi and 400mhz bus speed and ram is at 1:1 ratio 4-4-4-15

I can probably go on but I'm not gonna bother until i get a new cooler.


----------



## dpawl31

To both of you guys...

Great OC's!


----------



## Digikid

I had the Rev 2 XTC Platinum before....had to RMA it.


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jaihenwood* 
should exnihilo be running command rate 1T or 2T?

another note about this board is the Hyper 6+ back plate doesn't fit. but you can use the platic washers and it still mounts just puts preasure on the board. so i'm just going to keep my Mother board flat.

I agree, as I was wondering that myself. What's the difference?

cg


----------



## |talian $tallion

is anybody running the big typhoon on this board, if so are there any clearance issues?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



I agree, as I was wondering that myself. What's the difference?


Well, even though it is in the AMD forums it is still all memory.

Quote:



The Bandwidth tools (Everest & SiSoft) show a significant difference between running 1T vs 2T Command Rate - upwards of 25%, however, the Benchmark tools did not reflect such a large gap and there seems to be about a 2-3% performance hit when running 2T. It would appear that the Bandwidth Tools use some test process which is not reflective of the real world situation and as a result people quote these figures as being the reason not to use 2T timing...

Now if you look across the DDR scale you will see that if you are able to increase DDR by 7-10% this will have effectively reclaimed the 2-3% performance hit of the 2T setting. This is something to consider when trying to get that high OC where maybe 2T is stable but 1T just isn't.


Basically, 2T will help you get higher RAM OC's. 
1T will run better on some modules than others.
If you can OC further with 2T, maybe you can reclaim the loss of using 2T.
I personally don't think it makes enough of a difference even to worry about.

My suggestions...
Use 1T all the time your RAM is @ stock, or underclocked. 
Once you have to go above stock RAM speeds, go to 2T to gain the stability.
Maybe once you achieve your highest RAM OC, you can attempt to go down to 1T. If it does not work, you can try adjusting timings and such, and then go to 1T.

Here is the link to the thread.


----------



## exnihilo

Thanks for the info. I was more or less asking: 1T & 2T are timings for 'what'? I'll google it myself when I get home from work. Thanks for the information though, I appreciate it.

cg


----------



## Digikid

okay guys I just got this mobo today and successfully got it installed.

But I am so unfamilier with the BIOS....I wish Asus left it along... Anyways.,,,I got to 3171MHz using the following settings seen above.

at 1.47 Vcore
FSB 1410
Ram sync 800 (400) Running at 796MHz????? ***???
ram volt 1.9
NB 1.38
9x Muilti

From what I have seen going to 1:1 erases my previous settings.

help!!!!!


----------



## Kopi

I just ordered mine, should be here tomorrozzz!!!!!!11!1!!1one!1


----------



## esrum1

I'm going to be sending back my P5B-Deluxe due to major incompatibility issues with my OCZ PC5400 DDR2 RAM.

Here's the link to the RAM -

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...nce_series-eol

Has anyone had any struggles using the P5N-E using either this memory, or any other OCZ memory?

Thanks,

Joe


----------



## exnihilo

Go here, and get this: Manual.

Look through the first 20 pages or so, there will be a couple pages with tested memory sticks on it.

cg


----------



## exnihilo

Well I checked for you (page: 1-18) and there's not even a listing for OCZ. Doesn't meen it won't do it, you just have to wait for one of the folks with the board and 'that' RAM to chime in.

cg


----------



## Kopi

i heard there are problems with this board and OCz but i asked around, made some threads and all answers came up to NO.

Now im worried


----------



## esrum1

Kopi,

You system description says that you're running OCZ memory with the P5N-E. Are you encountering any issues? Did you machine post upon install?

I'm extremely disappointed with OCZ's memory DIMMS and I just want to track down a solid motherboard compatible with these chips. The P5N looks awesome.

Joe


----------



## dpawl31

I have had no problems with OCZ... almost, have not OCd memory yet, but no issues at all.


----------



## cool_hesem

i am newbie here and just got this board a few weeks ago... so, any guide for OC this board? Match with E6300 & 1GB 800 DDR2.


----------



## Digikid

Running OCZ here..no problems at all.


----------



## JCushing

hey ive found over a certain FSB speed trying to set the ram to 800mhz gives you funky numbers for the actuall speed in the bios. just play with it till you get it closer to 800, for 1 speed i had to set it to like 809 to get 800 effective. this only seems to happen to me over 3ghz.

anyway thought i would chime in and say im 9+ hours stable at 3.2ghz now and i know i can go higher with more voltage but i dont think im gonna push it anymore, going past 3ghz doesnt make much difference in 3dmark anymoreso i think my cpu is matched up good to my vid card now at those settings.

i did manage to pull off a 7k+ run in 3dmark06 so im happy...

and for anyone asking about memory im running gskill ddr2 800 cas 5 but it runs fine at cas 4 (4-4-4-12 2t) at 800 mhz. its currently 170bux for 2 1gb chips at the egg http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820231098


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esrum1* 
Kopi,

You system description says that you're running OCZ memory with the P5N-E. Are you encountering any issues? Did you machine post upon install?

I'm extremely disappointed with OCZ's memory DIMMS and I just want to track down a solid motherboard compatible with these chips. The P5N looks awesome.

Joe

I get my motherboard and PSU tonight, so i'll let you know soon enough


----------



## dpawl31

I had some of those wierd numbers too, it's like 7Mhz so I was not worried.
Does anyone know where I can get some cheap AS5? I am buying an Antec P180 case (the brushed metal, not black, that's P180B!)
I am getting it via ZipZoomFly ($120 after MIR) w/ free shipping.
They apparently don't sell AS5? lol
I went to the egg, $6 plus another 5 or 6 shipping, wth?! $11 for AS5 small tube. Not cool! Maybe ZZF has it and it is just hiding on the site somewhere









Heres a link to the case I am getting









http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...uctCode=140118


----------



## Kopi

Got any local stores? Thats usually your best bet

Can anyone with this board tell me how hot the NB runs on stock? Supposedly its reaaaallly hot...if it is i might look into cooling for it


----------



## dpawl31

Well I actually changed my mind. Going with the Antec 900 now.
Mainly because I REALLY want a window still, and I love Mesh panels.
Also, I think the cooling is more sufficient.

Check the pic below for my proposed rig setup.
I found it @ Best Buy for $130. I have another place I can order it on the web for $100, plus ten shipping, so $110. But for $20 more I can have it NOW. haha.

In regards to space, according to neweggs measurements, compared to my old case:
2.9" Longer
2.2" Taller
0.8" Wider
Cool!

I still have a thermal paste quandry. I have Arctic Ceramique. I think I just need to clean the CPU/HSF better as well as I believe I am going to LAP them







So if the Ceramique still isn't good I'll have to get some AS5 somewhere... Newegg wants $13 for the small tube! (shipped)

Disregard the shoddy paint job.
I lost my Photoshop CD









By the way, anyone know what "€" is? lol I just found in on my keyboard for the first time in 15 years...

Please I am encouraging comments on this setup!
This way I think is the best to get MAX cooling out of my Freezer!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Can anyone with this board tell me how hot the NB runs on stock? Supposedly its reaaaallly hot...if it is i might look into cooling for it
Don't worry TOO much.
It is toasty to the touch with stock HS and voltage 1 notch from highest (1.5v now, think its 1.7v highest)
And that is with my crap crap crap case/cooling.

Then again I did reseat the HS with AS Ceramique...

At stock voltage and stock HS thermal adhesive I wouldn't worry too much. But any OCing may raise its temp as well as voltage to the NB... what kind of case cooling are you running?

I am sure you will eventually want some cooling as well as AS5 it.
Did you get your MB/PSU? Whuchu think?


----------



## Kopi

Well it isn't in yet, unfortunately. I'll as5 it and i have awesome case airflow so it should be ok i guess


----------



## 32oz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cool_hesem*


i am newbie here and just got this board a few weeks ago... so, any guide for OC this board? Match with E6300 & 1GB 800 DDR2.


Here's a beginners guide I wrote up:

First restart your system and hold the *delete* key to enter your BIOS.

Go to the *Advanced* tab

Select *Chipset*
Select *Memory Timing Setting*
Manually set your RAM timings (Defaults can be found on the label on the chip itself and/or on the package)

Under *Command Per Clock (CMD)* set to *2 clock* (2T)

Press *Esc.* twice to return to the *Advanced* tab.

Select *CPU Configuration* Be sure that your CPU Multiplier is set to the default, then Disable everything except Execute Disable Bit.

Press *Esc.* to go back to the *Advanced* tab.

Select *Jumper Free Configuration
*
Set *AI Tuning* to *Manual*

Select *Voltage Control* 
under *CPU* select the default vcore
under *Memory* select your RAMs default voltage (usually 1.9 - 2.1)
The others can be left on Auto for now&#8230;
(You may need to up these values to get a stable OC at some point)

Press *Esc.* to go back to the *Jumper Free Config.
*
Select *FSB & Memory Config.*
under *FSB Memory Clock Mode* select [*Linked*]
under *FSB Memory Ratio* select [*Sync Mode*]

under *FSB (QDR), MHz* type in the FSB that you'd like to try (do this in small steps around 5MHz at a time), remembering this numer is 4 times what your FSB is or half of your CPUs actual speed. For instance I have my system at 3.0 GHz which shows as 1500 under FSB (QDR), MHz (FSB of 375).

Press *F10* to *save changes and reboot*.

...good luck and good speed!


----------



## cool_hesem

32oz... thanks... i will try it tonite...


----------



## exnihilo

Hey, 32oz, what does "under FSB Memory Ratio select *[Sync Mode]*." mean? What does it do? Thanks.

cg


----------



## 32oz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *exnihilo* 
Hey, 32oz, what does "under FSB Memory Ratio select *[Sync Mode]*." mean? What does it do? Thanks.

cg

Gives you a true 1/1 CPU/Memory divider, otherwise if you select 1/1 in this section it will give a memory speed of your quad pumped CPU. For instance with my system, I have my CPU at 1500 (3.0 GHz/375 FSB) and if I select 1/1 my memory would be set to 1500, which is wayyyy to high, rather than the true 1/1 that's 750.

Does that make sense?

Edit: In other words the 1/1 setting doubles your RAM, which is not good...


----------



## JCushing

good call on the 900, its a great case. i got mine at comp usa for $105 with a $25 MIR.

with all the fans on low it runs real cool and its basically silent. i would advise on running the side vga cooling fan as it blows on the NB HS as well as the VGA card.

just becarefull with the PS, if you have an older one the MB cables might not reach the 6 pin 12v connector. its on the very top of the MB on the p5n-e


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *32oz*


Gives you a true 1/1 CPU/Memory divider, otherwise if you select 1/1 in this section it will give a memory speed of your quad pumped CPU. For instance with my system, I have my CPU at 1500 (3.0 GHz/375 FSB) and if I select 1/1 my memory would be set to 1500, which is wayyyy to high, rather than the true 1/1 that's 750.

Does that make sense?

Edit: In other words the 1/1 setting quad pumps your RAM, which is not good...


Thanks man! I was wondering how to "get around" that. I was looking at that sync mode, but the friggen asus manual, for all intents and purposes, SUCKS! lol. Rep for you mane.









cg


----------



## Kopi

Anyone have problems running this board with OCz Ram?


----------



## Digikid

If you would PLEASE read the other posts you will see that there are LOADS of OCZ owners that are working perfectly with this board.

I just noticed that my O/C freezes on the CPU tests in 3DMARK06 110. What can I do to fix this?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



just becarefull with the PS, if you have an older one the MB cables might not reach the 6 pin 12v connector. its on the very top of the MB on the p5n-e


MY PSU is really new. The cables are damn long, in fact some reviews of my PSU say too long. Also, it is not modular and I have 4 SATA power and 2 PCIE power I cant use







So thank god for the PSU mounting @ the bottom in the 900 because I was sick of seeing all the cables smashed up top.

32Oz, great job with the guide, I just never got around to it. REP+
And yeah, sync is for true 1:1, as I said a few pages back the linked mode links your total quad pumped CPU and dual RAM so your FSB at say 300 would be 1200 really, which if you linked it your RAM would be DDR2-1200 or 600Mhz, which is not easy to do with DDR2-800 RAM lol.
It will always keep a 1:2 divider because from the base values of FSB and RAM, the FSB is quad pumped and the ram speed is doubled.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



I just noticed that my O/C freezes on the CPU tests in 3DMARK06 110. What can I do to fix this?


Have you run Orthos to test stability?
If not, do that. I would say you aren't stable.

You may have to bump up NB or vcore.


----------



## Kopi

The only thing i could think of would be instability

OMG MY MOBOS HERE (and PSU) ...they had no 600watts so got the 700watt for price of 600watt yayaaa


----------



## gtboi604

@Kopi
-good choice on the PSU, thats one hella STABLE @$$ PSU, i have the 600w model, and look @ my rig, it keeps everything up to par with my system.
let us kno how ur OC goes, the e6300 should be hell-of-a clocker...the new 805 supposedly.
heh, good luck!
D~


----------



## Digikid

Awesomeness to the max!!!!

I have a Enermax Noisetaker 2 650W PSU. Got it for Christmas last year.

Well i ran Orthos for a hour perfectly so I am happy now.


----------



## Kopi

I wanted the 600 but hey, like i said im not going to complain about a free upgrade. Got it running, installing some stuff and uploading pictures now...DAAAAMN this thing is fast, great looking mobo and no ram problems at all..glad to see that so many people agree with my choices, makes me feel toasty







. About to run some benches n stuff i'll let you guys know how it goes


----------



## dpawl31

Kopi, how goes the build?

I got my 900 in. Will post pics in a few minutes.


----------



## dpawl31

So get this.
Orthos stable for like 2 hours before in my old case.
Reinstall, idle temp is down to 34 with fans on low (except I have that MASSIVE 200mm on high, SO quiet!)
Run Orthos, temp doesnt even reach 40C and I get 2, almost 3 minutes in and I get errors! DOH!

Guess it's time to get those NB/SB coolers








I can't spend any more money right now though, so methinks I'll go back to 3.5Ghz for a while. I was getting some random IE7 crashes anyway, Guess I wasn't as stable as I thought.


----------



## Kopi

Well at stock GPU, stock CPU, stock ram timings, i got 100k dead on in AM3. I thought it was a little low but that'll be easily bumped by a little OC'ing. This computer looks great too OMG i love it!


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah, Im like the 900. It really is a great case.
I was worried because of the way they describe it on the website.
OWN ANY NOOB EVER SPAWNED etc. lol.

OK We have a "snow emergency" here in NH so I gotta get going to work!
Sounds fun eh?


----------



## Digikid

Since overclocking I cannot BELIEVE how smooth BF2142 is!!!! I LOVE IT!!!!

Mind you I still suck at BF anything. LOL!!!!!!


----------



## Kopi

haha thats a shame, im abnout to play...this rig is sweet


----------



## exnihilo

Cha-ching, just hit 3.0 Ghz. 4300/P5N-E (personal best) thanks, in part, to advice I've found in this thread. 1:1 ratio with a FSB of 334. Mem is at 667 4-4-4-12 2T. Runs great. I Orthos'ed for only 30 minutes, I'll run it longer later after work. woot!

cg


----------



## dpawl31

Do you have the newest bios?
You should be able to gain a little bit in scores if you switch to 1T.
BUT! As stated before, the "research" shows 2T allows higher OCs. 
So, forget what I said, and keep pushing. haha.

A guy on here got his 4300 to over 4Ghz. He had to mod his NB straps directly on his chip though, and that scares me


----------



## dpawl31

I am building a new rig for a "customer" sometime within a week.
I am using the P5N-E because I just love it








He won't need SLI, but I didn't see anything better for cheaper.


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Do you have the newest bios?
You should be able to gain a little bit in scores if you switch to 1T.
BUT! As stated before, the "research" shows 2T allows higher OCs. 
So, forget what I said, and keep pushing. haha.

A guy on here got his 4300 to over 4Ghz. He had to mod his NB straps directly on his chip though, and that scares me










You know what, I'm pretty sure my memory will handle 1T timing, but I'm gonna enjoy 3 Ghz. for a bit before I go screwing with it, lol. *Do you happen to know where the straps are for the NB on this board??* My 3dmark06 score didn't jump that high form 2.4 to 3.0. they went from 5300 to 5500ish. I can't wait till 3d-07 comes out so all these fools with 8800's can ****, lmao. (j/k, i'm just jealous).

On second thought I might just go 3-3-3-10 at 2T, that may be good too. I'll keep it posted.

cg


----------



## dpawl31

Before going to 3-3-3-10 check CPU for timing tables on the SPD tab.
See what it recommends for 333Mhz. (DDR2-667)
I would go with what it recommends and try 1T as well.


----------



## exnihilo

Exactly, that's how I know I can go that route







. Does cpuz tell you 1T and/or 2T too? I don't remember seeing that. Man, now I wanna leave wrok to go try. lol. Man, I'm just glad it booted, it hated 300 fsb for 2.7 Ghz.?. I don';t understand why. What's the default voltage for the NB? Thanks.

cg


----------



## dpawl31

Not sure of default NB.

CPUZ does not say 1T or 2T because it is really up to RAM choice and personal choice.


----------



## Kopi

I'm 1 hour orthos stable now, unlike before. I was unstable but i needed a bios flash, which i may add is amazingly easy on this board. Go 650i go


----------



## SaII

how's the vdroop on this board?

really bad or moderate?


----------



## exnihilo

By the way, I had forgotten to mention when you asked, I'm using BIOS 0307. Works great.

As far as Vdroop, I couldn't really tell you because I don't trust anything but the BIOS, and well, I can't stress test it in the BIOS, lol. But I can tell you, for all intents and purposes that ASUS Probe goes form 1.36 to 1.31 after about 30 minutes on Orthos. That's at an MB temp of 38Â° and a proc. temp. of 43Â°.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I'm 1 hour orthos stable now, unlike before. I was unstable but i needed a bios flash, which i may add is amazingly easy on this board. Go 650i go


What version? So far 0307 is very stable. I've heard 0401 didn't have that much to offer so meh. I'll wait a bit for something revolutionary, lol.

cg


----------



## Kopi

Well at least on my part 0307 has issues with the OCz ram, and my dear friend The Pook got an extra 12fsb out of the 0401 or whatever the new ones called. I like 0401 seems to be real stable, on my part at least.


----------



## dpawl31

0307 was HORRIBLE for me as well.
First release worked fine for me, but did not like auto mem timings.
0401 is rock solid.
As far as vdroop, at 1.3v I am @ 1.26v in XP.
When fully stressed, 1.22v (occasionally 1.18v)
I have yet to play with that +100mv thing in the bios. Anybody tried that?


----------



## Kopi

Nah but it looks tempting as the standard options are weird, like 1.920 or something for example I love to see that i have a bunch of mobo support if needed right here


----------



## dpawl31

As far as I know it just adds 100mv...

I updated my SIG with a link to my gallery.
Pics of the setup in my new 900.
Leave comments!


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SaII*


how's the vdroop on this board?

really bad or moderate?


id say that the vdroop is pretty bad...
mine is set to 1.4v...idles @ 1.42...loads @ a r3tarded 1.28v.








still lookin for a a vdroop mod.








D~


----------



## |talian $tallion

looks like I'm not stable @ 3.2ghz

what should i set my chipset voltage to?


----------



## exnihilo

I'm wondering the same thing.

I think I'm gonna hit up ASUS.com and do some searching just to get a definitive answer once and for all.

cg


----------



## exnihilo

Man, ASUS had NADA! Off to the net I go.

cg


----------



## |talian $tallion

ok, I put my NorthBridge Voltage to 1.56 and that definitely helped stability @ 3.2ghz

still don't know what stock NB is...


----------



## exnihilo

I think I've read on here it's 1.4, but I can't find it. If that's the case, you may have gone too high. Did you start lower and work your way up? And did you add active cooling to your NB HS?

cg


----------



## Kopi

I'm having some problems with ram on this board...maybe its my ram, maybe its the ram+board combo but i can't seem to run stable at 800mhz ram. I mean, it IS ddr2800 and at stock timings with voltages at 2.25v i think i shoudl be able to pull off 800mhz. Any ideas?


----------



## khurios2000

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=169784
here is my max fsb oc result.


----------



## p912043

very good kh. What's the vCore, vDimm & vNB?


----------



## khurios2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *p912043* 
very good kh. What's the vCore, vDimm & vNB?

thanks, all the number set in bios
vcore: 1.37v
vdimm: 2.3v
vnb: 1.535v

i really like this board, very easy to do memory overclocking.


----------



## xlr8

I am getting ready to order this board from Newegg. Does anybody have any memory suggestions? I will be getting 2GB PC2 6400â€¦I see a lot of OCZ on this thread, should that be my choice? I am wanting to avoid memory that wonâ€™t boot because bios voltage is set wrong for memory.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



I am wanting to avoid memory that won't boot because bios voltage is set wrong for memory.


Don't let that be a deciding factor. That is so simple, just set it to factory vdimm when you first get the board. Until you get to 400FSB or higher, you won't need to worry about upping the voltage. It is designed to run @ DDR2-800 @ stock voltage, that's what it is rated for.

Honestly, I don't see the board being picky about RAM anymore with the 04-- series bios. Just get what's good and at a good price. OCZ had a huge sale on RAM when this thread was first started, hence the massive amount of OCZers on here.


----------



## Thrice

Hey guys,

My new Scythe Ninja heatsink just arrived and before I put it on I wanted to know if it would be worth it to remove the stock NB cooler and put some arctic silver on it, then re-attach it.

Think it would help at all? Or should I just leave it stock?


----------



## Thrice

Double post.


----------



## |talian $tallion

i think it would probably lower the NB a couple degrees, wouldn't hurt to do it

i plan on doing that eventually


----------



## dpawl31

Asus is known to do a crap-ass job on the thermal paste, not to mention it isn't AS5.

I DEFINATELY give a thumbs up to doing that.


----------



## Vanarium

Do you guys think if I needed to save money, go with the P5N-E SLI instead of the P5N32-E SLI. I am in a tight spot for money but still want to be ableto get maybe a 3.2Ghz 24/7 OC on a E6600. Think this board could do it?


----------



## p912043

Van, for E6600 u should have no problem to hit 3.2GHz with P5N-e. I got this board with E6700, rock solid @ 3.6GHz. But not stable after that. And I would say P5N32-e is a better board just cost a bit more.


----------



## The Pook

+100mv reduces vdroop for the vcore.

1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v


----------



## MADMAX22

wow pook thats pretty good, thats the worst problem ive heard with this board is the vdroop, nice one you need to spreed that around a little


----------



## exnihilo

True, I was thinking that the +100mv would take 1.34 to 1.35, lol. I didn't realize it would change it that drastically. The vdroop is about the last wrinkle I need to iron out, guess I'm trying that after work. Thanks.

cg


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


+100mv reduces vdroop for the vcore.

1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v


Ah nice find pook, that'll help quite a few. As for me, im RMAing my ram, but the guys who im buying it from locally are letting me hold onto this stuff while they order me a new set, might be in tonight, might be a couple days.


----------



## Kopi

FINALLY OCN!! FINALLY!

I've finally become stable, i exchanged my ram and got the OCz DDR2 800 XTC Gold's, 5-5-5-12 rather than 4-5-4-15, which i see is no big difference, first shot at 800mhz in memtest was 100% stable! I'm so happy...its been a week of unstableness and unsettled kopi, but finally she rests, at a sweet 100k aquamark for stock everything






Can't wait for the LGA bracket so i can get my XP-90 running


----------



## xlr8

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
+100mv reduces vdroop for the vcore.

1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v

I am new to overclocking....can anybody tell me what this means (baby-steps)?


----------



## rsfkevski

referring to Vcore for your CPU. Vdroop is the term used when your CPU is under load and the board actually cuts the voltages back.
1.45v w/o +100mv = 1.37v-1.41v (vdroop BAD)
1.45v w/ +100mv = 1.44v-1.46v (Vdroop not that bad)


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8*


I am new to overclocking....can anybody tell me what this means (baby-steps)?


Vdroop, you set your voltage to 1.4, but it reads like 1.35 or something while under load. The reason it drops at load is because its sucking back the power. Thats bad, tough to get an accurate reading on volts. To prevent that you choose an option in the bios called "+100mv" and it stabalizes your Vcore.

NOW my question, should it be equiped even at stock volts?


----------



## dpawl31

vdroop is more of just the difference in voltage between the bios setting and the actual readout in windows.

If you set it to 1.3v with 100mv off, it will read around 1.22v in windows.
If you set it to 1.3v with 100mv ON, it will read around 1.32v in windows.

So, you gained that 0.1v. 
If you set your bios to 1.4v, with 100mv OFF, it will idle in windows around 1.32v. 
You really aren't fixing vdroop, nor does it kick in only when under load.
It just raises your voltage by 0.1v. So you can either use the +100mv, or just set your voltage 0.1v higher. Really makes no difference.

vdroop in my experience has been roughly .06 to .08 from bios to windows with this board.
That's pretty bad, but it is controllable. 
Difference between idle and load vdroop is about 0.06v

As long as you know what amount of vdroop you have, you can account for it. If you cpu is NOT stable at 1.35v, but is stable at 1.36v, and your vdroop is 0.06v...

Take you LEAST stable voltage, 1.36v, add your bios-windows vdroop of 0.06 and your idle to load vdroop of 0.06 and you will come up with 1.48v

1.48v will be the BIOS voltage you want to set to stay stable.
That is assuming 100mv feature is off. (1.38v w/ 100mv on)
Esentially, since your total vdroop is around .1v to .12v, the +100mv will work. I personally would rather have a set # in my bios, more visual for me.

Hope this cleared some things up, and hope I am understood correctly!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



stabalizes your Vcore


No, it doesn't. It is just adding 100mv so that the voltage setting in bios is reading almost the same in windows. It is just adding the voltage to your settings, just so it doesn't seem like you are losing voltage.

Honestly, just set your voltage higher and expect the vdroop.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



the board actually cuts the voltages back.


Not really cutting back voltages.
It is just the stress of the CPU chewing up the voltage.
If you put 12v to a high power lightbulb in a car, your voltage is going to drop to 11.6v or something similar.

That is why cars really run batteries around 14.4v so when all electronics are on you stay above 12v to keep everything running.
That is also why when you install high end stereo systems like mine, you create such a draw on the battery that you need to install a "cap" or capacitor, to store more power, so your system doesn't kill you battery or alternator!

PS- w00t w00t for the triple posts! hah


----------



## dpawl31

Apparently I was a bit off with my personal numbers.
At 1.4v, I am at 1.34v in windows, and 1.22 under max load. (average load of 1.25v)
That is a worst case scenario of 0.18v, which is quite bad.
But, just up that voltage some more and off I go







Maybe since I was wrong about my vdroop, maybe that's why my 3.7Ghz stability was not all quite there!
I am running 3.5Ghz with a 2.8 chip and still below stock voltage (1.25-1.4)
Methinks it's time to go UP!


----------



## Digikid

wondered what the +100mhz meant...thanks!


----------



## The Pook

Your motherboard isn't the only thing that plays into vdroop.

Your PSU plays a part as much as the mobo.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Your PSU plays a part as much as the mobo.


Yup. Stable PSU helps too.


----------



## xlr8

So what are the ways to minimize vdroop? Good PSU,, keep voltages stock?
Does a mild overclock compared to a full overclock have the same/bad
vdroop?


----------



## dpawl31

Pretty sure the higher you go the more vdroop you'll get, but I think that difference is minor.
Good PSU definately.
They do have people out there doing vdroop mods, maybe someday someone will do one for this board.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xlr8* 
So what are the ways to minimize vdroop? Good PSU,, keep voltages stock?
Does a mild overclock compared to a full overclock have the same/bad
vdroop?

More you crank the volts, more you lose, generally.


----------



## rsfkevski

So why on earth would I be getting these readings on this board? Set the Vcore to 1.35v and Speedfan and Probe II both are reading at 1.45v. Someone please shed some light on this. This is also without the +100mv enabled. If I take the Vcore to 1.45v, it shows 1.60v in these as well. The higher I go in the bios, the higher the difference in these programs. Oh, and SiSoft also shows higher than Bios voltages.


----------



## dpawl31

Ouch. Ultra X-connect PSU right? That may be it.
The Xconnect series is old, and not good stable power.
I would use a multimeter and test your PSU.

Dont get me wrong I love my ultra PSU, but it is a new design.


----------



## icerumba

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
They do have people out there doing vdroop mods, maybe someday someone will do one for this board.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=127528









My vdroop according to
PC Probe: 0.07 V
CPU-Z: 0.07 V
A flaky DMM: 0.04 V
Resistance across the resistor: 145 K ohms

Vcore
Bios: 1.39 V
Flaky DMM (idle): 1.43 V
Flaky DMM (load): 1.39 V

Stuck at 3.0 GHz.


----------



## dpawl31

#1 Welcome to OCN, Ice!
#2 REP+ for the link, that's awesome. Scares me though.
I hate the idea of soldering on my $140 board :s
#3 I have no idea what they are talking about with the resistors and what not, and like I said- SCARY. lol

#4 SO! I am getting $100 cash Sunday to do a tune up on a friends car.
Will be spending that on:
NB Active cooler $20?
SB Passive cooler $7
AS5 $10
Sandpaper to lap CPU/Freezer 7 $10
Some stuff to do my Tricool Fan Controller Mod<--Maybe.
Better fan for my Freezer. (someone told me of one quieter/highercfm for it) $15
Another Tricool for side of Antec 900 $8
That brings me to $70... leaves room for shipping and some modding supplies.
Maybe I'll use a bit of the extra for something else if anyone has any suggestions. Check my gallery (in my sig) to see pics of the new rig setup and maybe make some suggestions.

Thanks guys, oh and Ice, welcome again!


----------



## dpawl31

So I plan on doing that fan speed mod. Have to wire the tricool wires to the new wires, and will get new toggle switches, something fancy. I wish this board had BIOS controllable fans, like speedfan. SF doesn't recognize some stuff right, right now my freezer7 is showing 135Million RPM. lol.

Anyway I plan on mounting at least 5 toggle switches to a CD Drive bay shield. God I can't wait it's gonna be awesome. Then, once I get the NB cooler, I'll be takin this board to it's limit









**EDIT** 
Got to test my PSUs short circuit protection tonight... 
Was playing with the tricool fan switch and touched it to the case, ZAP, out go the lights








Started right back up, thank god lol.


----------



## Kopi

Awesome, how hot does this NB and SB run during OC'ing? If i'm looking for like 400+ fsb shoudl i invest in some new cooling or what


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Awesome, how hot does this NB and SB run during OC'ing? If i'm looking for like 400+ fsb shoudl i invest in some new cooling or what


Well I reseated my NB HS with Ceramique... and it's still the hottest thing in my case, and its not even on the highest voltage yet, 1.56 I think.


----------



## Kopi

You shouldn't need more than 1.4....will i be ok at the 1.4v through the NB range? Should i get something for the SB aswell? I'd really prefer to not but if its necessary


----------



## dpawl31

It's worth it... $5 or so for a passive HS for the SB.
You can get an active NB HS for about $5 as well.

I do need more than 1.4v on my NB... for my OC.


----------



## Kopi

I'm in canada..i'll be ordering some stuff from Case-Mod.com if i could get it from there that would be cool, care to help me find one? I'm thinking of like 15 for two or something

www.case-mod.com

That ASUS heatsink looks so cool though lol


----------



## dpawl31

NB
SB
$13.94 plus shipping.

That's almost exactly what I am getting.


----------



## Kopi

That doesn't look too much more effective than this passive one..

Is there any way to check NB temp?


----------



## dpawl31

Feel it. LOL

Around the base.

Oh, and it is much better. It is copper, not aluminum, and has 5CFM fan.
Guaranteed you aren't getting 5CFM over the stock HS right now. Probably 1CFM, lol.

Oh you'll need some Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive... the stock stuff is junk. And there are no clips with that NB cooler.


----------



## Thrice

How do you pop the northbride heatsink off?

Can i do it with out removing the mobo?


----------



## Digikid

for all canadians try this site...very fast and cheap prices.

www.ncix.com

Adhesive? I would advise against that in case you need to RMA your board since I heard that you cannot take off the adhesive if needed. Try to use AS5 instead. I read that it is better than Cerimic.

As for a good fan dpawl....I suggest a NOCTUA fan. Looks weird but VERY powerful and silent.


----------



## Kopi

i prefer directcanada.com they are the best...like a newegg


----------



## xlr8

Does anybody know how hot the SB gets on overclocking? Letâ€™s say a 400FSB
has anybody touched the SB to see if it was just warm are is it real hot?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


Adhesive? I would advise against that in case you need to RMA your board since I heard that you cannot take off the adhesive if needed. Try to use AS5 instead. I read that it is better than Cerimic.

As for a good fan dpawl....I suggest a NOCTUA fan. Looks weird but VERY powerful and silent.










As far as the adhesive- I hate the idea of it too. But that HS I showed him comes with it on it, but it's crap - so I suggested upgrading it. You can also use zip ties or try to mod some clips in or what not. I won't use thermal adhesive either, but to each his own.

As far as the Noctua... they are REAL quiet... they push slightly above average CFM, they are REAL ugly.

I can't justify a bit more CFM and a bit less noise, for a NASTY NASTY color fan! I can't put something like that in my 900. I just... can't... do... it!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8*


Does anybody know how hot the SB gets on overclocking? Letâ€™s say a 400FSB
has anybody touched the SB to see if it was just warm are is it real hot?


Hmm, normally I would say don't worry too much about the SB.
But @ 400FSB... I'd worry. For safetys sake, just get a passive HS and some AS5. That's what I am doing.


----------



## Kopi

Yeah im going to grab just a little something for the south, and the north seems to be ok atm


----------



## Thrice

I just was given this chipset cooler by a friend as a hand me down: (Vantec Iceberg)

http://www.svc.com/vanvgaandchi.html

Think its good enough cooling for the northbridge? Its so small, and still alum, do you thing the big stock heatsink would be better?


----------



## Kopi

Try it and let us know


----------



## Kopi

OC starts tomorrow, stock cooler, hopefully stock volts 2.4


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thrice*


I just was given this chipset cooler by a friend as a hand me down: (Vantec Iceberg)

http://www.svc.com/vanvgaandchi.html

Think its good enough cooling for the northbridge? Its so small, and still alum, do you thing the big stock heatsink would be better?


Do you have that whole kit? Or just the fan? Or just one of the heatsinks?

If you have just a heatsink... don't use it on the NB. Because it is smaller and has less overall surface area to disipate heat.
If you have the fan, which is a fan designed for a GPU... I doubt it will fit on the NB, but you can try.

If you have either of those heatsinks, stick one on your SB!

**EDIT**
If you have the big heatsink, it says one HS is alum and one is copper. If the big one is copper, it should outperform the stock NB HS.


----------



## Thrice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Do you have that whole kit? Or just the fan? Or just one of the heatsinks?

If you have just a heatsink... don't use it on the NB. Because it is smaller and has less overall surface area to disipate heat.
If you have the fan, which is a fan designed for a GPU... I doubt it will fit on the NB, but you can try.

If you have either of those heatsinks, stick one on your SB!

**EDIT**
If you have the big heatsink, it says one HS is alum and one is copper. If the big one is copper, it should outperform the stock NB HS.


I have the whole kit. It was never even opened.

The kit comes in 2 different types. All copper or all alum, I have the alum one. All the sinks and fan are alum.

The fan is a heatsink/fan combo, its just pretty small (it will fit the NB to, holes line up perfectly and it came with pins to attach it). I attached it to the stock NB with thermal tape. I think it will work better just blowing some heat off.

I put one of the passive Heatsinks on the southbridge with tape also.

Overclocked my e6600 to 3.4 ghz. Its stable I ran orthos all night. My temps at are 34 idle, and 43 under max load for my CPU. the Motherboard temp seems hot tho. under load it goes to 48-49c. The NB still seems really hot to the touch. Should I be worried?


----------



## Kopi

Fill in your system specs in the UserCP up at the top, so we can see all your stuffs. I just did a little OC, 2.4ghz on stock cooling/volts


----------



## Thrice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Fill in your system specs in the UserCP up at the top, so we can see all your stuffs. I just did a little OC, 2.4ghz on stock cooling/volts


Done.

I was able to OC about 40% with out barely even touching my voltages. I'm running at a 1:1 divider with my ram right now, so to go higher I need to OC my ram right?


----------



## Kopi

If your at 400fsb yep, from now on will be a ram OC or, in the bios you can set it to unlinked, where you can raise your FSB and Memory seperately. If you wanted, you could leave memory at 800mhz and raise FSB without effecting ram


----------



## Thrice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


If your at 400fsb yep, from now on will be a ram OC or, in the bios you can set it to unlinked, where you can raise your FSB and Memory seperately. If you wanted, you could leave memory at 800mhz and raise FSB without effecting ram


Yep. I'm at just below 400 fbs.

I unlinked it to clock it up, untill I reached 1:1.

If i want to maintain the 1:1 the ram needs to go up as the CPU does right? I don't think I'm going to take it any higher really. I scored 9550 with 3dMark6, thats plenty for me.


----------



## Kopi

Thats a great score, if you want to keep 1:1 you'll need to OC ram which shouldn't be too much of a problem, you've doubled my score by the way









Sadly, this new rig isn't performing well in benches. Aquamark3 is 101k and 3Dmark06 isn't too much better at 5008 (2.4ghz and gpu oced to 545/750)

The stuff is

e6300 (2.4ghz for now, stock volts)
p5ne-sli
2gb OCz XTC gold 5-5-5-12 at 800mhz
BFG 7900gs OC (545/1500)

Some systems with valueram and 3600+ are beating me. Anyone got any ideas?


----------



## rsfkevski

Hey Thrice, what are your settings in the Bios to get to where that OC is stable. I just recently built basically the same system as you, for a friend, and I can't seem to get stable @ 400 x 8. If I take the multi to 7, I can easily reach 400fsb stable, but no matter what I take the voltages up to, it just doesnt seem to be stable with the multiplier higher. I'm unsure of the stepping or week and I'm not going to tear it all apart just to get that. BTW, he's running a Thermalright HR-05 SLI w/70mm fan on NB and a CoolerMaster H/S/F on SB. Temps are wonderfully low, like 21ºC @ idle (ambient 20ºC)cccccold!!! Temps, obviously, are not a problem. I need some input cause I'd like to see this E6600 hit at least 3.6 on air! Ram will go to 900mhz stable as well. If that helps.


----------



## Kopi

Hey just wondering if any of you guys have had any problems with TAT? Me and pook cant get it running, think its not reading mobo right


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Memory
2 GB Corsair ddr2-6400


Thrice just an FYI, it's DDR2-800 or PC2-6400, not DDR2-6400, that would be 3200Mhz RAM. Jesus! lol


----------



## squrrel444

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Hey Thrice, what are your settings in the Bios to get to where that OC is stable. I just recently built basically the same system as you, for a friend, and I can't seem to get stable @ 400 x 8. If I take the multi to 7, I can easily reach 400fsb stable, but no matter what I take the voltages up to, it just doesnt seem to be stable with the multiplier higher. I'm unsure of the stepping or week and I'm not going to tear it all apart just to get that. BTW, he's running a Thermalright HR-05 SLI w/70mm fan on NB and a CoolerMaster H/S/F on SB. Temps are wonderfully low, like 21ÂºC @ idle (ambient 20ÂºC)cccccold!!! Temps, obviously, are not a problem. I need some input cause I'd like to see this E6600 hit at least 3.6 on air! Ram will go to 900mhz stable as well. If that helps.


Very few people are actually getting e6600s on air up to 3.6 mhz....
alot are getting stuck around the 3.2 area..
There may be a spot in the 400 to 435 fsb area that works....
Whats the best 9x multiplyer fsb you can get.....?

The corsair pc 6400 might be a problem they downgraded there mem reciently and all but the very expensive modules will not go very far over 800 mhz..

Yours might be marginal......


----------



## rsfkevski

so far, been stable at 350 without taking the voltage above 1.35, which i'd rather try and stay away from, if at all possible. Using GSkill DDR2-800 running at stock voltages. I do have the RAM locked at 800mhz, and the divider seems to be 7:8. I'd like to get to 1:1. That's my goal here, but I dont know if that's gonna be possible without increasing the H#LL out of the VCore!


----------



## Kopi

im at 400fsb on stock volts


----------



## rsfkevski

that's an E6300 though, i'm trying to get there on an E6600. What's your NB Voltage set at?


----------



## Kopi

Stockski, 1.3


----------



## rsfkevski

LMAO, aight, i'm sittin at 1.5 now, let me back it down a bit and i'll post my results after.


----------



## rsfkevski

ok, backed Multi down to 7, increased FSB to 375, posted without problems @ 2.6, i'll be back, gonna boost her up to 400 and see if she'll post.


----------



## rsfkevski

woohoo, 400FSB baby! 1:1 on memory. E6600 @ 2.8. Gonna go a bit more. I'll be back!


----------



## rsfkevski

ok, i think i hit a wall at 437. CPU @ 1.35v and 3.06GHZ.


----------



## Raikku

Is this reliable mobo now in its present form?

And how about those usb-problems, does this work ok with all usb's connected 24/7?

And finally, is this compatible with Zalman 9500Led(is there enough space)?


----------



## DonNiger

have anybody reached the FSB higher than 500 mhz without vmods? So far, 480 is the max for me but it is low because of the Corsair memories - I think.

To much to read all the posts.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raikku*


Is this reliable mobo now in its present form?

And how about those usb-problems, does this work ok with all usb's connected 24/7?

And finally, is this compatible with Zalman 9500Led(is there enough space)?


This motherboard has been very reliable for me (kids gamer). They have all sorts of things plugged into the USB's 24/7 without any adverse effects. As for your second question. I put a 9500 LED on it without problems, but I also changed out the stock NB HS and went with a Thermalright HR-05 SLI, actively cooled.


----------



## End3R

So I just got this board and I have to say so far I'm thrilled with it, but I have to say I'm having a little difficulty overclocking. I have the version 1 bios and aside from the "AI overclocking" ability which will take me to 2.16GHz I can't get the board to register any other FSB except 1333 putting me at 3.0GHz, which is what I want, but until I get better case cooling my loads get alittle too hot (in the 60s) so I want to get at a nice 2.6GHz but when I enter 1160 as my FSB (or anything above 960 other than 1333) my comp won't post and I have to restart, and when I restart, even if I enter the bios and it says the FSB is 1160, the post screen as well as windows and cpu-z will all say I'm at 1.8GHz (stock) How can I get past this problem?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
have anybody reached the FSB higher than 500 mhz without vmods? So far, 480 is the max for me but it is low because of the Corsair memories - I think.

To much to read all the posts.

Hey Don, welcome. Please fill in your specs under User control panel-->edit system.

Many have breached 500FSB, but not on this forum so far.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Raikku* 
Is this reliable mobo now in its present form?

And how about those usb-problems, does this work ok with all usb's connected 24/7?

And finally, is this compatible with Zalman 9500Led(is there enough space)?

Definitately reliable, as stated.

USB problems? What USB problems? lol

I would say your Zalman is fine. It's more a case that confines it.
I believe the Zalmans sit pretty high up, the only thing you'ld run into trouble is the NB HS is huge, and wide... I had to remove a strip (the asus logo) and bend down one of the fins because it was rubbing the fan mount on my AC Freezer. You can see it in the pics in my gallery.


----------



## Raikku

It's nice to hear that this board should be ok.

I just have to buy new mobo to oc my E6600 properly, along with mobo i plan to buy 8800Gts, 320 or 640-version.

I ask that usb-thingy 'cause in Hothardware's review they had reboot-problems when they connected usb devices to this, also they had random problems with memory slots.


----------



## Icarusmk2

I've been having some problems stabilizing the OC on my E4300 on P5NESLI. I am wondering what sorts of measures I should take.

Specs:
E4300 @ 3.2Ghz (FSB 400 @ 8)
P5NESLI
OCZ DDR2-800 Platinum Rev 2 2GB (4-4-4-12 1T)
ATI X800XL (*needs to be replaced by 8800GTS 320MB) on stock speeds

On a generic 450W PS

The VCore is set at 1.450V and VDimm 2.085V, rest at auto.

The temperatures are relatively good under load:

CPU - 46C
MB - 34C

So I am wondering why video artifacts occurs after around 20 minutes or so. Is it because I don't put enough juice into the VCore or is PS just a piece of junk and should be replaced?


----------



## Kopi

If you think you're ram is holding you back, just set a temporary devider


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



PS just a piece of junk and should be replaced?


Bullseye.


----------



## dpawl31

Ender...

Quote:



"AI overclocking"


Don't use it







Never worked well for me.


----------



## Kopi

AI overclocking is for teh nubs!

I just got 126 in aquamark and 3d06 is 5441...taht at 2.8ghz cpu and 575/1650 on the GPU


----------



## End3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Ender...

Don't use it








Never worked well for me.


I'm not, I have it manually set to 960 (2.16ghz) I was just saying that that happens to be the AI Overclocking's max setting and the only FSB I can get to work above that is 1333 (3.0)

I wanna get to 1160 but dunno why it isn't working.


----------



## Icarusmk2

End3R try setting to unlinked. I hit the same wall when I was trying to OC.

Also care to post your current settings (voltages & mem timings etc)? I'm pretty sure some of us here can give you some "more experienced" advice once they see what you have cooking.


----------



## unknownSCL

w000t!!! just installed mine with a TT120. and i can finally OC!!!!


----------



## Kopi

What're the temps lookin like with that beast


----------



## Perry

I know I've posted before saying I planned on picking up this board and that hasn't changed but I'm curious to know if anybody has any sites that show benchmarks with this board running a single video card vs. two.

Essentially 1x16 vs. 2x8.


----------



## Kopi

You should be looking at a 60-70% improvement in game performance. You know you'll have to get another video card and DDR2 ram right? You might aswell just grab something like mine for 200 bucks off directcanada.com, nevermind the SLI. But SLI is about 60-70% improvement. Its a deadly board, you'll be happy







.


----------



## rsfkevski

I havent seen any reviews with 1 vs 2 GPU's Perry, although I dont think that there is going to be a big difference in today's games. There really isnt anything that will utilize 2x16 to an advantage, as of yet. Later this year, that will probably change when the new DX10 games are released.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


You should be looking at a 60-70% improvement in game performance. You know you'll have to get another video card and DDR2 ram right? You might aswell just grab something like mine for 200 bucks off directcanada.com, nevermind the SLI. But SLI is about 60-70% improvement. Its a deadly board, you'll be happy







.


He is refering to the 1x16 or 2x8 lanes I do believe.


----------



## Kopi

Well havinig 2x16 or 2x8 is such a small difference its practically un noticable. But having one card in x16 and two in x8, the two will definately win


----------



## rsfkevski

aboslutely agreed upon there my good Kopi


----------



## DonNiger

i have some results, benched a couple of weeks ago. In SLI mode, the VGA core does not go as high as in a single mode. This board does not have an extra power connector to support PCI-E slots.

SLI GF6600GT 600/650

Single GF6600GT 610/650


71% improvement.

In 3DMark06 my results were 2245 versus 3549, it makes about 63% (but that is only because of the C2D)

As far as I have seen before, there is a difference between 2x16 or 2x8, and it is up to 10%. With my last MB (Asus P5N32-SLI Deluxe), the difference was above 80%.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I know I've posted before saying I planned on picking up this board and that hasn't changed but I'm curious to know if anybody has any sites that show benchmarks with this board running a single video card vs. two.

Essentially 1x16 vs. 2x8.


----------



## trevorrs

all i have to say is

holy crap 52 pages!

possibly getting this mobo so better start reading................

Trevor


----------



## Raikku

What you ppl(this mobo's users) think about these few, not so good, reviews?
(ie. this from Xbit)

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...5ne-sli_9.html

Is there faulty mobos out there, or do this board have some odd habits what you just have to know when you use it(?)

And, although it's not Asus, what you think about MSI's similar mobo, better/worse ?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trevorrs*


all i have to say is

holy crap 52 pages!

possibly getting this mobo so better start reading................

Trevor


Here's an example of a quote from my REPs...

Quote:



Thanks for making this post w/ all the great Info. it was a great read... for 2 1/2 hours! ha


lol. Glad I started the thread- means I don't have to read it all.
lol







Enjoy!

**EDIT**
That was roughly 10 pages ago. LOL


----------



## Perry

I did some reading on the MSI board and while I do like the addition of some southbridge cooling, I've had bad luck with boards that arent' Asus.

I'll stick with this because Asus seems to have better support than MSI...that's my opinion anyway.

I can't see myself going SLI but once I do my upgrade and the 8800's come down in price, I may just induldge myself.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Raikku*


What you ppl(this mobo's users) think about these few, not so good, reviews?
(ie. this from Xbit)

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...5ne-sli_9.html

Is there faulty mobos out there, or do this board have some odd habits what you just have to know when you use it(?)

And, although it's not Asus, what you think about MSI's similar mobo, better/worse ?


OK I am going to break down this review for you. It is a bad review, and what I mean is they did a bad job reviewing it.

Quote:



Moreover, it allows using graphics cards with Nvidia's GPUs in SLI mode, even through at a lower speed than you would have with the more expensive nForce 680i SLI-based mainboards.


"Lower Speed". It's been shown no more than 10%. If you are dualing 8800GTXs on this board... you really don't need that 10%. But, when in the future it does require more power (ie DX10 games...) it may be in your interest to get another board. But honestly, 10% is the HIGHEST difference seen, it is usually around 4%, and considering the cost of the 16x boards... DAMN.

Highs:

Quote:



Good performance


-obviously

Quote:



Can overclock the FSB almost to 500MHz


-proved @ other sites OVER 500

Quote:



Can overclock system memory independently


- agreed, this is GREAT

Quote:



Appealing price


- no kidding?!

Lows:

Quote:



Chipset and the CPU voltage regulator are not cooled enough


-Quite obvious, anyone even trying to buy it knows that. Also ASUS is known for bad thermal paste, so you usually remove the HS's anyway, why not upgrade to active? Even some of the high end boards have passive cooling









Quote:



A FSB hole from 400 to 450MHz


- That's news to me... first time I've read it. Seems to be something just they experienced.

Quote:



Faulty PCB design


- Now this part irritates me.







Read below

Quote:



Six-channel integrated audio


 Who cares.. it works great, and most people get soundblaster cards anyway.

OK now in reference to the PCB, this is sections from what they said:

Quote:



The elements of the CPU voltage regulator, including capacitors, are located on the PCB right around the CPU socket, which is not good. They may prevent you from installing a cooler with a massive base (the North Bridge heatsink may be an obstacle, too).


My Freezer 7 sits just about as low as any of them, and its pretty wide. No issues at all with the caps and regulators. I DID however hit the NB HS, but that is because its huge, and it only touched a millimeter of my Freeezers fan bracket. Solved it by removing the ASUS logo, and bending down the center fin. Also in relation to cooling the Freezer 7 has bent fins (stock) at the back that blow over the regulators, thus cooling them









Quote:



You can also find it difficult to connect the additional 12V power cable. The mainboard has a 4-pin connector, and the modern 8-pin connector doesn't plug into it easily due to the jumper indiscreetly placed nearby.


If you don't have a removable motherboard tray (ie my Antec 900) it really is a slight pain in the batooky to get the 12v power in. BUT, not really that bad it just takes a little handy work with your hand (pun intended). I think they only had a problem because of the type of connector they used- I had the 4 pin 12v (most PSUs come with 8 pin, that seperates into two 4's., they had a straight 8 pin... hah!)

Quote:



The FDD slot is placed very inconveniently behind the last PCI. The placement of the SATA ports is not good, either. You may find it difficult to use them if you've got two graphics cards in your system. The inappropriate choice of places for the various slots may be explained by the reduced area of the PCB (to make it cheaper), but what we can't explain and justify is that the mainboard offers only three fan connectors. That's not enough for a mainboard of that class that carries a lot of hot elements on board.


Floppy drive.. who the hell uses a floppy drive anymore lol. And if you do, it still works, just a wierd spot. So what?
SATA cables are tiny, easily routed around video cards. Plus, in most cases the HDDs are in the middle if not the bottom, so why is it a bad spot for them?
3 Fan connectors. Guess how many I am using with 3 120mm, 1 200mm, and my CPU fan.
ONE. My CPU fan. Most people building a system with this board will have 1)fans with switches 2)a fan speed controller 3)who needs more than two additional fan connectors? I'd rather have power straight from the PSU anyway, less strain on the MOBO's power.

In conclusion- I think a 15 year old reviewed this board. hah.
I am biased... but I think I covered everything well. Maybe I should make a real review and put in on OCN? I'll have you guys help edit it and such, then we'll post it with all our names









**EDIT**
Holy mother of Jesus that's a long post. HAHA!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I did some reading on the MSI board and while I do like the addition of some southbridge cooling, I've had bad luck with boards that arent' Asus.

I'll stick with this because Asus seems to have better support than MSI...that's my opinion anyway.


Yup. SB cooling = good, but also not a reason to buy over this board.
You can get a HS for the SB for $2.


----------



## Kopi

Thats my plan...the stock NB looks so damn cool though









Pook go up to 3.4ghz on his e6300 and his NB temp was 52c if i recall correctly, thats not too bad for such high clocks. I think that was with either 1.5 r 1.45 volts going through...which i wouldn't keep anyways, i'd consider that a suicide run..probabl run 3.2 or 3.0 for day to day use.

I laugh at all the things they say went wrong lmao...check out anandtech who loved it, thats a reputable review. And for 150 bucks canadian (which i got mine for) paying the extra 20 for nb and sb cooling isn't so bad


----------



## Kopi

Anyone here running TAT? I can't get mine to work, neither can Pook (we both have this mobo). Just wondering if its a mobo problem. I get this error.


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Anyone here running TAT? I can't get mine to work, neither can Pook (we both have this mobo). Just wondering if its a mobo problem. I get this error.










From what I've seen bro., it's a common issue right now. Maybe they'll (Intel) will get it sorted out soon.

cg


----------



## Kopi

oh ok...so its not just me


----------



## Kopi

yess...heres the update

3.0ghz (428fsb)
1.275 vcore
rams at 856 at 5-5-5-12, 2.1v

yay for stock cooling and undervolts...idle 36c and orthos load 58c


----------



## dpawl31

Yikes! 36C-58C? Big gap...
At 70F Ambient:
I am 31C Idle and under 50C load.

Well, I guess you are 5C higher idle, and 8C higher load... so it's not bad. Just seemed like a lot to me, I must be wrong!


----------



## illwun11

I have an e64oo with the asus p5n-e sli and i'm having tons of trouble oc'ing it does anyone have any values I can try to see if it works?


----------



## Kopi

no no at 3.0 i idle'd at 46c...my bad


----------



## illwun11

in the bios the fsb min is 500 and max is 3000 how do i get it to 400? anyone that oc's with this board please help me is there something i'm not doing or do i need to unlock something?


----------



## dpawl31

For 400FSB you need 1600FSB is BIOS, as Intels are quad-pumped.
I would suggest reading this thead... I know it is long but as you read it you will get more answers.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


no no at 3.0 i idle'd at 46c...my bad


















Get some more case cooling!








Isn't that pretty high for a C2D? It's still not bad but I thought C2Ds ran way cooler.

Your idle @ 3Ghz is 14C higher than my 3.5Ghz chip running two searing hot 90nm P4 cores!
Then again you are also running twice the ops/cycle... lol


----------



## Kopi

Heh well im on stock cooling with that ugly paste that was on the bottom of the stock heatsink..i'll let you know how it goes with the xp90


----------



## illwun11

thank you dpawl. i'm also having trouble finding the voltages like mch fsb and ich they don't seem to exist in this mobo....this is my first oc so please bear with me as i am a novice any help would be greatly appreciated. also i've done a lot of research but everything i find is extremely vague...


----------



## Kopi

btw i have deadly airflow, 80mm in side, 120mm exhaust, 120mm intake front...both 120mm pulling 90cfm and the side fan 30cfm


----------



## illwun11

ok i got it to overclock to 3.0ghz but my core temp is pretty high like 53c at idle. I've got a coolermaster copper heatpipe cooling system with fan...


----------



## dpawl31

Holy hell.
1) Reseat your HS w/ AS5 and don't use so much!
2) Maybe another HS?

I would suggest cutting back your OC till you figure out why temps so high.
You could open a game and push over 60C in minutes.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *illwun11* 
thank you dpawl. i'm also having trouble finding the voltages like mch fsb and ich they don't seem to exist in this mobo....this is my first oc so please bear with me as i am a novice any help would be greatly appreciated. also i've done a lot of research but everything i find is extremely vague...









What do you mean MCH and ICH? Northbridge and Southbridge I assume.

There is a NB voltage- no SB voltage. Not really needed as it controls things like USB and hard drives.


----------



## Kopi

How many volts are you pumping through that?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
btw i have deadly airflow, 80mm in side, 120mm exhaust, 120mm intake front...both 120mm pulling 90cfm and the side fan 30cfm

I am running dual 79CFM 120mm intakes, 79CFM 120mm exhaust and if I remember right a 130CFM 200mm exhaust.

In fact...
a) the 200mm is so quiet- I run it on high and its quieter than the 120s on low.
b) the difference between mid to high settings on the 3 tricools is about 1C, so I run them @ 56CFM to keep my system silent.

With the 200mm on high, and the three 120mm on medium - I hear my Freezer 7 Pro over all of them, and my BFGTech OC fan over that!

Oh and if you look @ my gallery, the Antec 900 comes with a fan mount for the side window.
This mount puts a 120mm hole in the mesh. It also blocks the rest of the mesh.
Since I don't run that fan (until I SLI my 7600GT) I removed that mount and now my mesh is 100% open to airflow. The balance of flow is so good in the case, the mesh seems to not be pushing air out nor sucking in. Almost neutral!


----------



## illwun11

i did use arctic silver you think maybe too much?


----------



## dpawl31

If it's more than a thin, elongated grain of rice- Then yes. lol


----------



## illwun11

ok so cleaned up the arctic silver put back the hs and used speed fan this is how it reads...temp 1=40c temp 2=37c temp 3=25c hd0=29c hd1=37c hd2=36c hd3=39c temp1=40c core0=53c is this normal good bad...


----------



## illwun11

i went back to manufacturer specs on everything and i'm getting basically the same temps so maybe it's good getting those temps while oc'ing?


----------



## pheoxs

I think thats abit high, i have my e6400 o/c @ 3.0 ghz with this Mobo and I'm running 34C idle n 50C after Orthos for 6 hours. Is that 53C in ur second last post under a full load or is that your idle temp? if its your idle somethings definitely wrong, if its under load, its still a bit high. Whats your Vcore set at?

Edit: Also note I'm running stock cooling


----------



## illwun11

i got the same temps at idle while oc'ing and at factory specs so i'm not sure what it means.


----------



## illwun11

This is a screenshot of speedfan with my setup at stock specs which is pretty much exactly the same as it is when OC'd. See anything wrong with this picture?


----------



## dpawl31

Don't trust speedfan unless you have something to trust it against.
ie PC Probe II (came on motherboard CD)

Use that, and see what your temp is. I have a feeling your real temp is one of the first two in speed fan (temp1 or temp2)


----------



## Kopi

Yeah my case is silent too...i've been thinking of getting some different 120mm fans as the rear one is VERY loud at fullspeed. I have a controller, but i know there are some out there that pull like 60cfm at 20dba while this does 34cfm at 17dba....its quiet and then all of a sudden jumps to unbelievably loud. I have a front thunderblade which i love


----------



## dpawl31

My tricools run @ max 79CFM, but only 30dba

The 200mm is something ******ed like 130CFM and 19dba...Cha-CHING!


----------



## Kopi

Score. These pull 95cfm at 45dba but i'd like a sort of in between.


----------



## 2dxtreme

i need someone's help i don't mean to jump in here and raid this thread but i just got done installing everything in my new case go here http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...need-help.html for the build specs. well i fired it up for the first time and it won't post i just get check signal on my monitor what can i start checking to see what the problem is?


----------



## dpawl31

By the thead you posted, you have the P5N32-E SLI, not the P5N-E SLI which means you got the wrong thead here









Try this one : P5N32-E SLI Overclocking Guide

They should be able to help with your specific board









If it's not posting @ stock... check your RAM to see if it is seated, as well as everything else onboard. Check all jumpers, wires, etc. Could be anything.

Make sure you have all power connectors on the motherboard connected as well (24 pin plus extra 12v power)


----------



## illwun11

I oveclocked my C2D E6400 to 3.2ghz and these are the temp and voltage readings plus CPU-Z. Thanks A LOT to DPawl for helping me on my first OC. It's working beautifully.


----------



## dpawl31

One quick thing- those look like idle temps.
You need to run Orthos for quite a long time, but stay there and watch it for a while.

If you bust over 60C... you may need to back off you OC or get some more cooling for CPU/case.


----------



## Kopi

hey guys just a heads up (thanks to pook) that we have a new bios, supposed to support more CPU's?

Check asus's site, it seems to be down ATM, will be found here when http://asus.com/products3.aspx?l1=3&...20SLI%E2%84%A2

This update allowes EPP ram profiles...sick! Thats like...better for ram lol. Pook explained to me as

"If you weren't stable at 4-4-4-10 or something, with EPP profiles you have a better chance of being stable"


----------



## exnihilo

The "newest" file I see is 0401, am I missing it?

cg


----------



## dpawl31

It's 0505, it's there.

The page listed doesn't show any CPU support updates except the 0307 adding support for the e4300.

BUT! Judging by this:

Quote:

P5N-E SLI BIOS Release version 0505
1. Add C1E function support for Conroe-L A-1 stepping CPU .
2. Support new CPU, please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...5N-E%20SLI
3. Support FSB 1333 CPU .
I would say they added support for the new conroes- that aren't out yet!
Shweet. Great to see the support is there.

What I am most happy about-

Quote:

Fix CPR might fail when overclock too much.
I had many times where my GPU fan would run on high, like all reboots.
It would NOT slow down, and never post. I hit restart button, and I got past post but it said I failed to post before F1 to continue DEL to enter setup.

So I hit DEL, save and exit and it posts with new changes...
Methinks "Fix CPR might fail when overclock too much. " means that won't happen anymore!

Nice find Kopster, I'll guess I'll back off Tokkadpawl31asauraus. (inside joke!)


----------



## dpawl31

Uh Oh.

Went in EZ Flash... selected 0505...

Quote:

The downgraded ROM file was not suitable for the system.










I got it from the Japan server... due to the others being overloaded.
Wonder what's wrong?


----------



## The Pook

I used the Japanese server too. No problems here.

Downgrade your BIOS first, to 0202, then flash to 0505.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
hey guys just a heads up (thanks to pook) that we have a new bios, supposed to support more CPU's?

Check asus's site, it seems to be down ATM, will be found here when http://asus.com/products3.aspx?l1=3&...20SLI%E2%84%A2

This update allowes EPP ram profiles...sick! Thats like...better for ram lol. Pook explained to me as

"If you weren't stable at 4-4-4-10 or something, with EPP profiles you have a better chance of being stable"

It's a really crappy example.
And you have to have RAM that allowed EPP profiles.
(Most high end OCZs and "ATI Certified" sticks.)


----------



## dpawl31

Ah-HAH! I'll have to try that. REP+ Buddy








I want my REP back if it doesn't work. LOL


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

"ATI Certified" sticks
Don't you mean EPP certified?


----------



## The Pook

No, ATI.

*edit*
And I don't know if flashing back will work or not. I accidently flashed back to 0202 when I was trying to flash to the 0401 and I never noticed that I was on 0202 instead of 0401. Then I just flashed to 0505 and it worked. Worth a shot.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
No, ATI.

*edit*
And I don't know if flashing back will work or not. I accidently flashed back to 0202 when I was trying to flash to the 0401 and I never noticed that I was on 0202 instead of 0401. Then I just flashed to 0505 and it worked. Worth a shot.

Good thing I never REPPED you. LOL








Didn't work, and what's even stranger is I couldn't flash back to 02.
I am @ 04 now, and want to go to 05. The only one it will let me flash to is 04. What the...


----------



## The Pook

Clear CMOS before flashing.


----------



## dpawl31

You sure that'll work, cause it's a wicked pain to get to it lol.


----------



## Kopi

It is in kind of a stupid spot, i use my neednose to take it off. Let me know when you guys get it working, i'll give it a run tomorrow probably


----------



## dpawl31

Bad news: 0505 doesn't work via ezflash
Good news: it works via Asus Update in windows
Updated news: probably because Asus Update clears CMOS







hehe
Strange news: Entered XP after reboot...XP found a floppy drive.

---> I DON'T HAVE A FLOPPY DRIVE <---
It said it was installed and ready to use.
Wow, what's up 0505! LMAO.

Good news is - it's workin'.


----------



## dpawl31

Thank god I saved my 3.7Ghz OC to profile #2 in BIOS.
Otherwise I was back to 2.8Ghz lol.


----------



## exnihilo

Still don't see it. Where else (not Japan) can I download it from once it quiets down. And it's good to know that your OC Profiles don't die when flashing, that's the main reason I'm still at 0307, I'm lazy.

cg


----------



## illwun11

This is the screenshot of orthos and memtest with a C2D [email protected] temp never got higher than 45c with a full load plus running other stuff as well. I think i'm good to go. Might even go higher 3.4ghz or 3.6ghz...we shall see.


----------



## illwun11

Forgot the pic in last post...Here it is...


----------



## Kopi

Whatcha say dpawl, do i make the jump?

and, if so, whats asus windows update deal?


----------



## dpawl31

Well- I am one of those guys that stays as updated as can be.
Officially, ASUS says not to update to BIOS version unless you have an issue with an old one. I think that's crap. Why not have the best of the best?

Anyway, ASUS Update is available HERE. 
Go to Utilities and look for Asus Update for your OS.

Some people will tell you Windows BIOS tools are junk, I have never had an issue. It even lets you change the startup image (remember it is 16color... convert a pic before hand because otherwise it converts it for you- looks like crap! lol)

Have fun


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *exnihilo* 
Still don't see it. Where else (not Japan) can I download it from once it quiets down. And it's good to know that your OC Profiles don't die when flashing, that's the main reason I'm still at 0307, I'm lazy.

cg

Ah-ha, found it. 0505, but it says "DOS", where as all the others say "All OS". Oh well, I have it for when I might need it.

cg


----------



## dpawl31

I just ran memtest to see if maybe that's why I am getting Orthos errors now.

DAMNIT #!%*&

I hope I don't have to RMA my RAM I can't go without my PC!

If I have to, you think they'll let me upgrade?
I really want to go 2GB...


----------



## dpawl31

UGH!!!!

Still issues. Won't work with both sticks, either way.
I get Orthos rounding errors and memtest errors in test #5.

I can run 1 stick, either of them, w/o error.
This is so strange. I am going to try clearing CMOS and going back to 0202...
After I run my Orthos all night w/ 512 RAM running.

Going for Verified 3.7Ghz stable







Lookin great so far, load temps not over 48C!
Only half hour in but...
I love this Antec 900









F(#% the RAM! lol. It's been great for so long, then causing random IE7 crashes and then reboots. My RAM is dying - but only in dual channel!?
That's why I am going to try 0202 again.

But after I prove stabilty of 3.7Ghz to the world


----------



## Kopi

I'd like to see your update. You could try returning your ram and paying the difference for the 2gb kit, its worth a call yo ocz.


----------



## dpawl31

Already emailed them.

Quote:

I'd like to see your update.
You referring to the 3.7Ghz verified?
Sweet. Someone actually interested in my PentD $96 chip running faster than the $350 chip


----------



## Kopi

haha 3.7ghz is a monsterous number, just because its not C2D doesnt mean its ****.

BTW my chip only cost 220









I also want to hear how the hole ram thing works out, both sticks work in slot one, correct? Have you tried running them in slot 3 seperately to see if the slot is toast?


----------



## dpawl31

Trust me, tried ALL combos. They work fine individually.
After Orthos all night, I'll try CMOS clear and go back to 0202.

That would be WIERD if it worked.
But sweet none the less.

I know your chip is $220, I was referring to the high end of the PentD line.

Here's me over 2 hours in...


----------



## dpawl31

Forgot to open speedfan








Temps in that pic were @ 45C w/ ambient @ 70F
How sweet is that.


----------



## Kopi

Those timings look kinda high man, im doing 4-4-4-10 at 850mhz, you could probably get them a little lower. Sick temps man, I'm so jealous..i want my cooler running >_>
I'm doing 3ghz now at 1.225 volts...6 hours orthos stable


----------



## Nevaziah

nice, this board is REALLY popular.
FIrst thing i loved with this board is it just works.

took it out of the box, damn store had broken of the springs on the chipset cooler so i just put in screwdrivers and O bolts to pin it down (no biggie, no hassle). no need to update bios, at least not for me unless i need that 'one' new function or i run into problems


----------



## Perry

Another question. Are the FSB and memory frequency linked or can you increase each independantly?

Not to thread jack but people over on newegg.com are loving the MSI P6N SLI-FI. It's retailing for about $20 less than the P5N-E.

Which will be more deserving of my money?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Another question. Are the FSB and memory frequency linked or can you increase each independantly?
You have 3 options.
Linked Full - 800FSB and 800RAM. But if you go up on FSB, RAM stays with it.
Thus, 1000 FSB is really 250Mhz, and your RAM would be 500Mhz. You will always run a 1:2 divider with this option because of QDR Intel and DDR RAM.

Linked Syncronous - Keeps 1:1 Divider, thus 1000FSB is 250Mhz and RAM is 250Mhz, or DDR2-500.

Full Manual - Individual manual entries. Helps a LOT, honestly. Full control.

Quote:

Not to thread jack but people over on newegg.com are loving the MSI P6N SLI-FI. It's retailing for about $20 less than the P5N-E.

Which will be more deserving of my money?
Asus or MSI - most definately Asus.
Totally worth the money, it's only $17 more.
Don't trust the Eggs reviews. It is full or noobs.
Also... MSI's website for the board...
HERE
The picture showing the I/O panel.. it's not even the same BOARD!?
Look at the heatsink, it's a heatpipe, over the voltage regulators and what not. I wouldn't trust a company that can't even get their pictures together.
I did that once - with an Asrock board. Total trash.
Saw a quote for an asrock board the other day, said he loved his asrock board, the nb/sb heatsinks made nice keychains. HAHA.


----------



## Kopi

You come in to a p5n thread asking if p6n is better? PSSH p5n is for the win. Its been out for a little longer, got a couple bios updates out, and look how many people adore it. Its such an uber leet board.

p5n for the win


----------



## dpawl31

P5N-E FTW!
Also remember, prices GENERALLY reflect quality, when comparing identicle things. The boards are almost exactly the same. And $17 cheaper should tell you something.

Hey Kopster... I finalized my Orthos on 3.7Ghz








Check this: Intel Stable OC Thread


----------



## Kopi

Awesome man...thats a while overclock! Go P5N-e lol


----------



## The Pook

It detected a floppy for me too. 
I'm reformatting soon, so while I'm at it, I'll probably just disable the floppy connector on the mobo so it'll shut the **** up about a non-existent floppy drive.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



I'll probably just disable the floppy connector on the mobo so it'll shut the **** up about a non-existent floppy drive.


LMAO

OK now that I got my 3.7 Orthos verified... I am off to try CMOS clear and go back to 0202, then try both sticks of RAM again


----------



## JCushing

anyone have anything to say about the new bios? im using 401 right now.

also anyone else have any other feedback on NB cooling? i noticed the stock HS getting pretty warm at stock settings. i had some instability recently at some pretty mild overclocks 2.4-2.7ghz (system freezes) so i set everything back to stock and a overheating NB is the only thing i could think of. i upped the speed of the fan on the side of my 900 since it pretty much blows on the NB but im wondering if putting on 2 of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185039 on the NB will be sufficient or if i should get a better active cooler.


----------



## dpawl31

I reseated my NB with AS Ceramique way back when...
It's @ 1.5v and don't have issues.

So far, not so good with the 0505 bios. But it could be my RAM giving me troubles, still troubleshooting... :s


----------



## JCushing

yeah i saw you were having troubles with it, the fact it works with 1 stick makes it appear to be memory related though.

im not saying heat was the problem, its just the only thing i could think of. i mean i was fully stable up to 3.2ghz and i was running it at 2.7 fine but then out of no were it started crashing.

also id still love to see what the NB straps are. id still love to know why my machine wont post between 2.4-2.7ghz meaning i can post / boot at 2.4 and 2.7 but not inbetween. i can still run windows at 3.3ghz though lol


----------



## dpawl31

Strange.
I don't know anything about NB straps so I can't help you there.
Are you stable @ 3.3? Why not stay? lol


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


It detected a floppy for me too. 
I'm reformatting soon, so while I'm at it, I'll probably just disable the floppy connector on the mobo so it'll shut the **** up about a non-existent floppy drive.


For anyone experiencing this problem, just go to your "Device Manager", and navigate to your "Floppy Disk Controllers". Double click it and when the properties box appears, look towards the bottom for "Device Usage", click the drop down menu and select "Do not use this device (disable)". Click "ok" and your done. Worked for me. Hope it helps.

cg


----------



## dpawl31

Reverted to 0202...

Now I have no memory errors.

But my OC Profiles, after clearing CMOS and flashing to 0202, won't post anymore.

DAMNIT!

I believe I had the memory errors with the 04 series bios as well...
Back when 0307 or whatever came out, I flashed to it and it actually caused it to fail post... I am lost!


----------



## JCushing

im 9+ hours stable at 3.2, 3.3 errors right away but it prolly just needs more voltage (i was at auto volts)

honestly i didnt see a need to run it over 3, 2.7-2.8 is still real fast and runs just as cool as stock. i was using 2.7 as my 24/7 OC but then i got lockups so i put everything back to stock just to see if it was because my overclock or something else.


----------



## dpawl31

UGH. Seems to be OC related now.

Went to comlete stock settings via BIOS.
No errors, at all.

This blows, what happened to my OC!

So strange. Worked errorless in 0202 before, works fine with one stick of RAM. Two sticks and I get errors. In any BIOS. MAN I am so confused. No idea where to start.


----------



## jim.e.

hey guys.

i recently grabbed the P5NESLI due to a bad P5NSLI, and can say I love it already. My specs as follows:

e6300 @ 2.3GHz
P5NESLI
ASUS EN7600GS
Corsair VS1GB667D2 (value select 2x512 ddr2667 running at 5-5-5-15-2T)

I am kinda stumped. I am running stock voltages and as you can tell am at 2.3GHz from the stock 1.86GHz










is it possible for me to go further (Seeing as my memory is pretty much the limitation as its DDR667 and not DDR800)

I tried a fsb (quad pumped) of 1500/1550/1600 and none will work, im assuming voltage increase needed? it was running at 1450 but i lost the FSB: DRAM ratio of 1:1 and it was a bit clunky.

system passes superPI in 22seconds at fsb of 1333 and prime95 can go on flawlessly as well as Orthos


----------



## dpawl31

You'll be mighty happy with that rig.

Some DDR2-800 RAM would do you good.


----------



## ericeod

For those having problems with updateing to the 0505 P5N-E SLI BIOS and received the "Downgrade" message when flashing from within BIOS, try loading it through windows. I had to load windows and flash it with the ASUS update utility; Not preffered but it works. The system definately seems more stable.


----------



## TriBeCa

Hi all!

Thanks for the great thread. I've spent way too long reading, and I can't wait to start playing with my first overclock. Seems like a great board for it....

I'm having a bit of a fight getting this fresh build (see my specs, what you see there is about 10 hours old) stable though, so I haven't had a chance to start trying to OC it...I figure if I'm getting orthos errors with stock settings there's no point.

On my first full boot to windows after installing, I ran Asus InstAll to install the nvidia drivers, etc. etc. I would've gone straight with the latest from nVidia but I needed the LAN drivers installed first. This got going and very shortly windows had detected LAN and a couple other drivers. But the installation seemed to stall. I let it run for about twenty minutes, then decided this was absurd. Since I had LAN drivers now, I went to nvidia.com and grabbed their most recent drivers for the board. I also got the most recent bios update from ASUS, as well as the most recent audio drivers for the onboard sound. I then force quit.

Uh oh! Now the command interpreter isn't working...time to repair the windows install. Boot into windows, install the nvidia drivers, update the bios, and head over to www.windowsupdate.com. Ohhhhh...everything (except the mouse pointer) locks up while installing windows updates. What fun. Reboot.

Back to windowsupdate and finish those installations. Back to windowsupdate, expecting now to get SP2. But the windowsupdate page gives me an error, with no explanation. This is getting weird. So I install SAV Corp edition and start a virus scan...which hangs, just like installing those updates did.

Hmmm. After rebooting, I start fiddling in the bios. This time, the BIOS hangs!!!!! Can't say I've ever seen that before. The numlock key on the keyboard just went out, and I couldn't do a damn thing.

At any rate, through trying various things I discovered that taking one RAM chip out would make the BIOS stable. Mostly I could boot into windows, although I got (different) blue screens twice. Keep in mind all my OC settings, memory latencies, everything is on 'Auto'.

So I started running some orthos tests. Under every single BIOS I got an error in under 10 seconds. While under 03-- BIOS I tried taking out a RAM chip. Still an error. Tried another RAM chip...and this time it took almost 10 minutes to get the error. But an error nonetheless.

At any rate, I've now got both RAM chips in and I'm doing a fresh windows install under 0202 BIOS, in the hopes that the real culprit was a dodgy windows installation. There's no way heat is the culprit--my CPU temp never got above 40C while running orthos, and my case temp was typically a couple degrees cooler. I even touched all the components--the CPU and NB heatsinks weren't even *warm* to the touch, and neither was the RAM.

Any suggestions on how to proceed if the new win install doesn't work out would be greatly appreciated....


----------



## JCushing

dude this board is notorious for wanting memory timings set manually. G.Skill posted confirmed memory timings for the p5n-e here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...play.php?f=189

OCZ has a forum there too, try asking there or do some digging.

jime, im pretty sure your gonna want more voltage to go any higher. if your set on trying more speed try setting voltage to auto, mine will go up to 1.4 on auto. your not gonna get great gains out of it though unless you OC that ram. personally id leave it were it is, its pretty fast for its clock. i get 22-23 seconds for PI at 2.4ghz with 800mhz ram with my 4300 (only 1066fsb though thats why the 4300s are slower per clock)


----------



## TriBeCa

Yeah, thanks. I had actually found some discussion of that over on AnandTech. I'm 20 minutes into orthos now, which is personal record. I've got them manually set to 4-4-4-15, and everything else is on auto. I'd had it set to 5-5-5-15 which I'd thought would be a little more generous, but the board didn't seem to like it.

If this is stable for an hour I'll try to get windows updated, then move onto fiddling with my FSB. I'd like to get the FSB up to 1600 for 1:1, and then try to go 2000/1000, though with the way the RAM's behaving I suspect getting it up that high is gonna drive me nuts.

Anyone had success getting 800 RAM up to 1000 on this board?


----------



## jim.e.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCushing* 
dude this board is notorious for wanting memory timings set manually. G.Skill posted confirmed memory timings for the p5n-e here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...play.php?f=189

OCZ has a forum there too, try asking there or do some digging.

jime, im pretty sure your gonna want more voltage to go any higher. if your set on trying more speed try setting voltage to auto, mine will go up to 1.4 on auto. your not gonna get great gains out of it though unless you OC that ram. personally id leave it were it is, its pretty fast for its clock. i get 22-23 seconds for PI at 2.4ghz with 800mhz ram with my 4300 (only 1066fsb though thats why the 4300s are slower per clock)

all voltages are auto, and i bumped it up further today, oc'd the ram









FSB is at 350 (still going to push further) making the ram at ~700MHz, and making the cpu (x7 multiplier) 2.45GHz. ran orthos for 30minutes, ran fine and fully stable. i tried a fsb of 400 before attempting the 350 but it crapped out due to the ram. so i left it at 350. idle 47degrees, 55 full load

ill post a ss when i get home (did this quickly on my way out for university).

gonna try and get past my previous cap (362 without a 1:1 fsb: dram ratio. orthos stable but i want to sustain 1:1 ratio so i scrapped it)

EDIT: this is gonna be a fun day :evil: i found confirmation that i can oc my ram to DDR1000 easily with a MANUAL voltage increase. and even better, confirmation from a Corsair official with warranty assurance.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=137634

going to bump this sucker up to 3.0Ghz when i get home and work from there


----------



## JCushing

i would try and max out your memory first, set it to 2.08 or 2.178 (whatever your most comfortable with since there is no 2.1v avalible) and then see how high you can go with the memory at stock cpu speeds. usually memory is the limmiting factor in a 6300 OC so that will pretty much tell you how far you can go.


----------



## JCushing

btw i flashed to 505 in windows today (i got the same downgrade message you guys all got in the EZ flash) and so far so good. i havent tried overclocking yet though so only time will tell.


----------



## Icarusmk2

What's the best overclock anyone has done on this motherboard and an e4300?

Mine maxed out at 3.2Ghz @ 400 x 8 (Pi in 18 secs) [stock cooler and auto voltages] (Been running like this for like 2 weeks now)

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=177538

I'm wondering what other sorts of things I can try to stabilize the system at higher FSB, since when i tried to go to 410, it stalled on me even before reaching Win XP.


----------



## jim.e.

memory capped at 725MHz, cannot get it higher regardless voltage use...

also. for some reason now i cant set my fsb(qdr) past 362.5(1500) (cpu clock of 2.62GHz), system will post but windows will not boot.

2.53Ghz is enough for me now...time to poke around and see how people with the same ram managed to bump it higher.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Yeah, thanks. I had actually found some discussion of that over on AnandTech. I'm 20 minutes into orthos now, which is personal record. I've got them manually set to 4-4-4-15, and everything else is on auto. I'd had it set to 5-5-5-15 which I'd thought would be a little more generous, but the board didn't seem to like it.

If this is stable for an hour I'll try to get windows updated, then move onto fiddling with my FSB. I'd like to get the FSB up to 1600 for 1:1, and then try to go 2000/1000, though with the way the RAM's behaving I suspect getting it up that high is gonna drive me nuts.

Anyone had success getting 800 RAM up to 1000 on this board?


Make sure you set your RAM to 2T while overclocking, rule out the 1T issues.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jim.e.*


all voltages are auto, and i bumped it up further today, oc'd the ram









FSB is at 350 (still going to push further) making the ram at ~700MHz, and making the cpu (x7 multiplier) 2.45GHz. ran orthos for 30minutes, ran fine and fully stable. i tried a fsb of 400 before attempting the 350 but it crapped out due to the ram. so i left it at 350. idle 47degrees, 55 full load

ill post a ss when i get home (did this quickly on my way out for university).

gonna try and get past my previous cap (362 without a 1:1 fsb: dram ratio. orthos stable but i want to sustain 1:1 ratio so i scrapped it)

EDIT: this is gonna be a fun day :evil: i found confirmation that i can oc my ram to DDR1000 easily with a MANUAL voltage increase. and even better, confirmation from a Corsair official with warranty assurance.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=137634

going to bump this sucker up to 3.0Ghz when i get home and work from there


Please go to User CP --> Edit System so we can see what you are working with. Sounds good so far


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


btw i flashed to 505 in windows today (i got the same downgrade message you guys all got in the EZ flash) and so far so good. i havent tried overclocking yet though so only time will tell.


Please keep us up to date... my RAM is being a be-hotch in EVERY BIOS now.
I think it may end up RMA, but it doesn't make sense.

http://www.bleedinedgesupport.com/oc...d.php?p=213954


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Icarusmk2*


What's the best overclock anyone has done on this motherboard and an e4300?

Mine maxed out at 3.2Ghz @ 400 x 8 (Pi in 18 secs) [stock cooler and auto voltages] (Been running like this for like 2 weeks now)

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=177538

I'm wondering what other sorts of things I can try to stabilize the system at higher FSB, since when i tried to go to 410, it stalled on me even before reaching Win XP.


That is a killer OC man.
I believe you need NB strap mods to go higher. MadMax got his slightly over 4Ghz doing this... but it's scary... you have to mod the CPU itself


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jim.e.*


memory capped at 725MHz, cannot get it higher regardless voltage use...

also. for some reason now i cant set my fsb(qdr) past 362.5(1500) (cpu clock of 2.62GHz), system will post but windows will not boot.

2.53Ghz is enough for me now...time to poke around and see how people with the same ram managed to bump it higher.


Seems like that's a good OC, but we need your system info.
I am assuming, with the 725Mhz RAM you are running DDR2-667?

Also, FSB @ 362.5 is 1450QDR








375FSB would be 1500QDR.


----------



## x Swift x

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Yeah, thanks. I had actually found some discussion of that over on AnandTech. I'm 20 minutes into orthos now, which is personal record. I've got them manually set to 4-4-4-15, and everything else is on auto. I'd had it set to 5-5-5-15 which I'd thought would be a little more generous, but the board didn't seem to like it.

If this is stable for an hour I'll try to get windows updated, then move onto fiddling with my FSB. I'd like to get the FSB up to 1600 for 1:1, and then try to go 2000/1000, though with the way the RAM's behaving I suspect getting it up that high is gonna drive me nuts.

Anyone had success getting 800 RAM up to 1000 on this board?


i have 533 DDR2 RAM at 1000








running at 2000/1000


----------



## dpawl31

 Awesome.


----------



## TriBeCa

HEEEEEELP.

I got some mild OC's earlier, but lost them because at some point I lost the OC profiles. Was trying to get them back, and had to fight to get my RAM under control again (I've been at 2T the whole time).

I got it looking stable at stock speeds, and tried a simple overclock. 300 x 8 for 2.4MHz (set to 1200 in the BIOS). I got to windows, started orthos, and the system hung just before the 2 minute mark. I forced a reboot, tried to get into the CMOS, and it crashed while loading. Shut off the PSU, tried again--this time, where I would normally get a system beep, I get a prolonged beep until I shut the PSU down again.

Reset the BIOS with battery and jumper...same thing. And again. And again.

Absolutely NOTHING else changed...*** is going on, and how do I get back to the bios???


----------



## dpawl31

Ouch...

What BIOS were you running?

Disconnect power to PSU, kill the power switch too, then remove the battery and set the jumper over, leave it for 30 seconds.

No matter what BIOS, you should get back in.


----------



## TriBeCa

5050. Bios is on the jumper now...crossing my fingers.

Should I got back to 2020? Or 30-- (w/e it was)?

I've only really tried anything other than just try to get my RAM stable under 2020 or 5050, and you can see what happened under the latter....


----------



## End3R

I had issues overclocking mine as well, but never had trouble getting into the bios, you are hitting del when starting up right? I couldnt get mine to register anything past 2.16 except 3.0, even though it said it was running higher in the bios, when I would boot into windows it would tell me I was at the stock 1.8. The prolonged beep only happened to me when I was rebooting from the bios, so I just turned it off in the back and started back up, normal beep and ran smoothly.


----------



## dpawl31

I had problems with 0307
0402 was fine, a well as 0202 for me. 0505 is doing fine as well.

I have RAM issues, but it's not the BIOS.

Stay @ 0505, I doubt that is your issue. Just hope you can get back in the BIOS.

I am off to go ridin









Be back in about 5 hours.

Love me mah Yamaha Grizzly 450


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *End3R*


I had issues overclocking mine as well, but never had trouble getting into the bios, you are hitting del when starting up right? I couldnt get mine to register anything past 2.16 except 3.0, even though it said it was running higher in the bios, when I would boot into windows it would tell me I was at the stock 1.8. The prolonged beep only happened to me when I was rebooting from the bios, so I just turned it off in the back and started back up, normal beep and ran smoothly.


I don't have a PC Speaker 

So mine just hangs and I know it should be beeping lol.


----------



## TriBeCa

Still no dice. The jumper reset no worky.

How the f**k do I get in? I can't find any loose cables, nothing....

Did the CPU or NB or something bite it?


----------



## End3R

you are hitting del when you see the post screen right??


----------



## TriBeCa

no no, it's not posting. i'm getting the long beep before the default screen normally loads.


----------



## End3R

did you take out your cmos battery to do a hard clear? Take it out for about 30 seconds then put it back in, that should put you back at default settings.


----------



## TriBeCa

yes, yes I did. that's what I was saying to dpawl. I can't get it to reset.


----------



## End3R

Well you must not be doing it right, are you completely removing the battery?


----------



## TriBeCa

yesss.... i'll try it one more time for you.

i've got the battery out, and the jumper moved to the reset position, all while the PSU is unplugged.

i'm gonna get a glass of water, cry in the corner, and try it again.


----------



## End3R

Make sure you put the jumper back to the default position before you try and boot up too









edit - I also just noticed you've got an Ultra PSU, I hear nothing but bad things about those (ruining entire systems etc)... just thought you may wanna know


----------



## dpawl31

Hey now.. I love my Ultra.
Then again mine is one of the only good ones 
X-Finity made tier two PSU... no other Ultra on it tho.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103


----------



## dpawl31

I don't really think his PSU would cause him to not post though...

Maybe try another PSU if you have one, say from the computer you are usin now?


----------



## TriBeCa

nope, no dice.

i'm guessing either the RAM, the NB, or the CPU is fried. i'm gonna try both chips alone in every position to rule that out.

any hints towards determining if the CPU or NB is fried?


----------



## dpawl31

I highly doubt that is your problem... you were running a low FSB, lower than you had in the past.

Did you accidentally jump vcore to like, 2.7? lol Otherwise, I doubt it's that.
Maybe you have a bad BIOS ROM chip  That would SUCK.


----------



## dpawl31

I am off to 4 wheelin I am late already, good luck hope it works out when I get ack.


----------



## End3R

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


nope, no dice.

i'm guessing either the RAM, the NB, or the CPU is fried. i'm gonna try both chips alone in every position to rule that out.

any hints towards determining if the CPU or NB is fried?


what do you mean every position? if you're talking about putting your cpu into your board in different directions, DONT!


----------



## TriBeCa

i meant ram, lol.

and guess what? one chip in slot 3, and i posted!

weeeeee!

now to figure out if it's gonna stay bad like that 0.o


----------



## End3R

You have 2x 1gb sticks correct? you're supposed to put it in slots 1 and 3.


----------



## TriBeCa

ram in slots 1+3 does not work, 3+4 does...i'm gonna try this for 10 minutes in orthos, then see if 2+4 works (though I doubt it will, since 2 doesn't work on it's own).

time to RMA the mobo?


----------



## End3R

I wouldnt rma it yet, if you can get it to work with the memory in slots 3+4 then I guess just let it be?


----------



## TriBeCa

6 seconds to an error in orthos...i know it was more stable than that previously.

cpu-z says the timings are back to 5-5-5-15 though, even though that's *not* what was in my oc profile. people have said they've had trouble with this board if they don't have 4-4-4-15 timings, so I'm gonna try that. maybe with those settings i can get back on 1+3....

3+4 sucks though, cause it's single channel. and 1+3 *was* working.

I swear, at this point, if I can just get a stable stock build I'm going to run with it. It's a huge performance boost over my last rig as it is...if I start to get annoyed with it maybe I'll start tweaking again...once there's been like 5 more bios updates and 200 more people have OC'd it


----------



## End3R

Well I had a lot of trouble to start with too, my cpu was idling at 60c! lol but after some tweaking and patience I've got it idling at 29c but I've had to settle for 2.16ghz, once I install a new fan in the front I'm gonna try for 3.0 though


----------



## TriBeCa

you know what...it IS set at 4-4-4-15...but that's not the timing it's getting.

someone else reported this problem in another forum...i'm gonna go back to 2020 and see if that works...if it does, i'm not leaving it ;p


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah...i have no trouble with temp. after failing to OC my components are barely warm to the touch. and my CPU is 2.13 at spec...I *was* hoping to get a little more than that out of it









earlier I had what looked like a stable 2400mhz at 1350FSB...highest I got. didn't give it more than 10 minutes in orthos though before trying to push past. which I failed to do.


----------



## End3R

hmm guess having the higher multiplier really pays off, my fsb only needs to be at 1333 to get 3.0ghz Mine was stable at 3.0 but got loading alittle warm for my liking, thats why im going to try again after I get better airflow


----------



## TriBeCa

well, got my timings back, but orthos still doesn't like it....

tried ram in slots 1+3 and 2+4 again, with no luck.

so now i'm stuck with single channel memory that generates an error in orthos in under 10 seconds...


----------



## End3R

Hmm that's no good...I'm still pretty new so you might wanna check with other people first but it looks like you might wanna RMA it?


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah. if i can't put ram in the first two slots, i really should. think i'll give asus a call in a min here. just trying one or two more things to see if i can back to where i was 4 hours ago 0.0


----------



## End3R

where did you buy it from?


----------



## TriBeCa

tigerdirect


----------



## End3R

ah, never gone through them before, rma'ing through newegg is really easy.


----------



## TriBeCa

still on hold with asus, but if i do rma this thing i don't expect to have a replacement before next week...which slays me....


----------



## Kopi

I guess I'll be sticking with 0407 haha...or is it 0307? lol im not sure but i tihnk its 0407.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCushing* 
dude this board is notorious for wanting memory timings set manually. G.Skill posted confirmed memory timings for the p5n-e here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...play.php?f=189

OCZ has a forum there too, try asking there or do some digging.

jime, im pretty sure your gonna want more voltage to go any higher. if your set on trying more speed try setting voltage to auto, mine will go up to 1.4 on auto. your not gonna get great gains out of it though unless you OC that ram. personally id leave it were it is, its pretty fast for its clock. i get 22-23 seconds for PI at 2.4ghz with 800mhz ram with my 4300 (only 1066fsb though thats why the 4300s are slower per clock)

Yeah i set everything manually anyways, it reads it wrong on AUTO. AUTO settings are brutal, they are overkill...auto at 2.8ghz put me to almost 1.5v...im at 1.225 when i do it myself. Defiantely AUTO sucks anyways.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Icarusmk2* 
What's the best overclock anyone has done on this motherboard and an e4300?

Mine maxed out at 3.2Ghz @ 400 x 8 (Pi in 18 secs) [stock cooler and auto voltages] (Been running like this for like 2 weeks now)

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=177538

I'm wondering what other sorts of things I can try to stabilize the system at higher FSB, since when i tried to go to 410, it stalled on me even before reaching Win XP.

How about trying to kick up the NB volt a little bit? That might do something

0505 not going so well eh..


----------



## End3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
still on hold with asus, but if i do rma this thing i don't expect to have a replacement before next week...which slays me....

Make sure you check around first, by no measure am I any sort of authority on this board, lol. Might be more you can tweak with that I don't know about.

Well gotta go, hope everything works out for ya!


----------



## jim.e.

got it solved. system is in my sig, i had to bump up the voltage to 2.08V 4-4-4-14-2T timing (corsair says higher then 2.1V is warranty void and 2.08 4-4-4-14-2T is perfectly fine)

right now the cpu is running at only 1.86GHz as its locking up in windows past a fsb of 362.5, have a feeling i need more voltage. its already at 1.3 how much more should i give it to achieve 2.8GHz (fsb of 400)


----------



## jim.e.

EDIT: meant to say 2.013V and there is a problem.

despite having DRAM at 400 (800MHz), it is not Orthos stable. it will stay fine within windows. but if i run orthos, it will fail after second test. and if i give it more then 2.01V it will fail to boot into windows...

thought maybe i would up the cpu fsb to help make it stable but i guess bad idea as it will reboot before everything in winXP loads.

back to running at fsb of 362.5 and dram at 725. any ideas?


----------



## Kopi

Maybe your timings?


----------



## TriBeCa

long story short:

RMA'd the mobo because i'm 90% sure those two ram slots are dead.

returned the OCZ ram because i don't think it'll ever be stable in a p5n-e. i'm gonna stick with manufacturers configurators on this board--that way if it doesn't work I can really scream at them. as it is, asus was just like 'that rams not supported, sorry'. and i'm sure OCZ would say the same.

so...getting some corsair ddr 6400 that *is* recommended for the board, and has better latencies than the OCZ.

it and the replacement board will be here friday. if the ram's unstable i'm gonna scream and kill things, but i suspect it'll be fine. and then i should be able to do some decent OCing.... I really just wanna get the cpu to a 1600 FSB for a 1:1 ratio. hopefully i can get a 7x multiplier out of that....


----------



## jim.e.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Maybe your timings?


tried 5-5-5-15-2T didnt work either. someone on xtremesystems.com is running the same ram as me at 4-4-4-14-2T 2.1V DDR800 24/7 and for testing purposes running 4-4-4-15-2T 2.3V DDR1000.

a corsair official on the website (YellowBeard) said that it was fine to run it at DDR800 4-4-4-14-2T at 2.1V but if running at 2.3V he would void his warranty


----------



## End3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
long story short:

RMA'd the mobo because i'm 90% sure those two ram slots are dead.

returned the OCZ ram because i don't think it'll ever be stable in a p5n-e. i'm gonna stick with manufacturers configurators on this board--that way if it doesn't work I can really scream at them. as it is, asus was just like 'that rams not supported, sorry'. and i'm sure OCZ would say the same.

so...getting some corsair ddr 6400 that *is* recommended for the board, and has better latencies than the OCZ.

it and the replacement board will be here friday. if the ram's unstable i'm gonna scream and kill things, but i suspect it'll be fine. and then i should be able to do some decent OCing.... I really just wanna get the cpu to a 1600 FSB for a 1:1 ratio. hopefully i can get a 7x multiplier out of that....

Corsair is the only way to go


----------



## battlenut

I recently just got this board and can't figurre out how to OC the cpu, But to add onto something someone said earlier. I am using OCZ Platinum and am having no problems with it.


----------



## dpawl31

GO to jumper free --> manual --> manual


----------



## pheoxs

Hey i've had this board for about a week and a half now, it seems okay, my ocz platinium rev 2 works perfectly fine with the board. only question i got is, i cant get my cpu stable past 3ghz, any higher n sometimes it boots sometimes it dies, is this maybe a problem with the board or do i just need more voltage?

cpu-probe reports 1.31V on idle and 1.24V under load, but even at 1.29V under load it still does it ... i don't want to add any more volts to it though.


----------



## dpawl31

That is low for 3Ghz.
Are you running AUTO volts?


----------



## pheoxs

No i have it set to (for my stable 3ghz)

Vcore: 1.20V
mem 2.17 or somethin close to that, just under 2.2
NB Auto
Voltage offset +100mv

even if i put the vcore upto 1.27 (which cpuz reports as 1.36 idle n 1.29 under load) it still does this, is it safe to go higher? the box says 1.35V max or is it safe to go abit higher maybe upto 1.4?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


No i have it set to (for my stable 3ghz)

Vcore: 1.20V
mem 2.17 or somethin close to that, just under 2.2
NB Auto
Voltage offset +100mv

even if i put the vcore upto 1.27 (which cpuz reports as 1.36 idle n 1.29 under load) it still does this, is it safe to go higher? the box says 1.35V max or is it safe to go abit higher maybe upto 1.4?


Using voltage offset is really pointless, it confuses you.
All it does is add .1v, so you are really at vcore of 1.3v

Just checked e6400 specs, says 0.850V-1.3525V
I would say bump it to 1.35v, overclockers never stay inbounds anyway.


----------



## pheoxs

Kk ill try that in abit, not at home at the moment, but one question, do you mean to have it at 1.35V under load, after Vdroop or set the vcore in the bios to 1.35V?


----------



## dpawl31

vcore in bios to 1.35, with 100mv OFF

**UPDATE** for my memory bull----.

I have spent HOURS on end trying to figure this out. OCZ tech support - no help.

I got it!

Seems, after all the crap I went through, it is vdimm.
Anything manually set, and it fails orthos in a minute, and gives me memtest errors.
On AUTO, and I am 100% stable. I am going to try for 4Ghz tonight


----------



## Thrice

So i got to 400 fbs last night. But i had to turn my vcore up to 1.5 with the 100mv off set on.

It would boot up with lower but would fail orthos after 10 or so secs. At 1.5 it was stable for over an hour. I bench marked with it and got over 10,000 on 3dmark6.

Is it safe to leave the vcore that high permantly?

My temps never went above 47 on the core. Even after an hour on orthos.


----------



## dpawl31

I really wouldn't know... for a C2D
It is plenty safe for my chip, 1.55v is supposed to be my max voltage for a PentD. Only running 1.4v right now, will up when I go for 4Ghz.


----------



## JCushing

why on earth would it work on auto but not manual dpawl? thats pretty weird.

anyway to the guy that asked 3.2-3.4 is a pretty standard OC for a 4300 on air. people on water can go slightly higher and the crazies are on ln2, the p5n-e is in now way limmiting the OC potential as its capable of up to 500+ mhz fsb speeds.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



why on earth would it work on auto but not manual dpawl? thats pretty weird.


NO %$^!
LOL I spent 3 days and god knows how many hours, and posts on OCZ, trying to get this.

I bought the RAM @ ZipZoomFly... specs say 2.0v there.
OCZ website says 2.1v.

Tried slightly under 2v, slightly over (2.08?) and like 2.17 I think.
I assume .08 and .17 droop to 2.0 and 2.1v? That would be my guess.

But anyway, stable @ AUTO vdimm. At nearly a 1GHZ OC. GO FIGURE.


----------



## dpawl31

Woohoo just learned 25REP will get me a flame under my name









Now I go lookin' fo newbs and earn meself a flame lol.

2 more reps, yay!


----------



## Kopi

One more, cant you count


----------



## dpawl31

lmao!


----------



## dpawl31

Sweet! Just helped a guy out, he wanted to get the MSI version of our board, I talked him out of it, and WHAMMO

Quote:



MSI P6N SLI-FI, How is... 03-21-07 09:56 PM Thank you for your help :: Wheezy Baby


Not to mention Kopi over there, givin' props for me makin this thread haha.

YAY! I am a flamer!


----------



## jim.e.

still need some help as to what to do since my ram isnt stable at DDR800 (DDR667 stock) at 2.013V and wont even post if +V to 2.08

5-5-5-15-2T now too loosen things up but still nada.


----------



## dpawl31

Try AUTO voltage. Seriously lol...

Just did the trick for me.


----------



## dpawl31

Wait wait, you have DDR2-667 running @ DDR2-800? Firstly, you'll need more than stock voltage for your RAM... probably in the neighborhood of 2.2-2.4v.
Also, try even looser timings. What are your RAM's stock timings?


----------



## dpawl31

Are you still on 0202 bios as well? RAM was wicked pain in the --- for a lot of people with that BIOS. Get 0505 it seems fine for a lot of people.


----------



## dpawl31

Doh, I thought it was 25REP to get to post in for sale threads and stuff.
It's 35







I was hoping to get an appraisal for my system








Not that I am selling it! LOL Keeping it for a cheap C2Q!


----------



## jim.e.

0505 bios has some kinks in it so i wont be upgrading to that yet. i am on the 0401 (now). when i started off i was on the 202, i will try and set voltage back to auto and bump up the ram. well see what happens. still gonna try 2.1, 2.2 is gonna be overkill and void warranty

5-5-5-15 is stock timing


----------



## dpawl31

Yes, stock timing - for DDR2-667.

Didn't you say you are running it DDR2-800?

That's pretty overclocked ram...


----------



## jim.e.

well im trying to run it at DDR800, i know someone who is but lost touch with them

as for my scenario, I got some bad artifacting a few minutes ago trying to run a cpu fsb of 362.5 (qdr = 1450) and mem at DDR800, was all on auto. and at +2.1V it just locked up had to take cmos battery out due to no POST.

starting to think it is infact a bottleneck for my ram.


----------



## dpawl31

Have you gone from DDR2-667 slowly up to DDR2-800?
Why 800? You aren't @ 400FSB...
If your FSB is @ 362.5 you would be at DDR2-725 with 1:1.
I don't know enough about C2D multis, but if you can change your multi go with a higher one with less FSB, to try and stay under DDR2-667.


----------



## jim.e.

multiplier is locked at no higher than 7 (6 is available).

to get to ddr800 i was first at stock ddr667, then 700, then 720 then 730 crashed, went to 725 stable orthos 45 minutes test, tried 740/750/760/770/780/790 all failed. 800 passed BUT ONLY on a sock fsb of 266. windows and everything works fine, however, orthos will fail within 5 minutes. not worth it. so i am back to 725 where it is stable and almost bullet proof right now (bad choice of words but u get the idea)

as for cpu fsb. anything more then 362.5 (qdr = 1450) is crashing or giving artifacts due to a VERY hot nb. i touched it and almost burnt my fingure, not good. voltages are all auto.


----------



## rsfkevski

I immediately put this HS on the NB of my friends new P5N-SLI MB as soon as it arrived as I had heard horror stories about the heat that this chipset generates. It fit great with a little extra motherboard standoffs to hold it tightly in place. Will work with stock hardware, just doesnt fit too tight.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109131


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jim.e.* 
well im trying to run it at DDR800, i know someone who is but lost touch with them

as for my scenario, I got some bad artifacting a few minutes ago trying to run a cpu fsb of 362.5 (qdr = 1450) and mem at DDR800, was all on auto. and at +2.1V it just locked up had to take cmos battery out due to no POST.

starting to think it is infact a bottleneck for my ram.

You shouldn't have to pull the battery. Just restart (reset). If not once, try a couple of times, it'll post long enough for you to hit "Delete" and get into the Bios.

cg


----------



## rsfkevski

I've had the same issue with NO POST and having to pull the CMOS battery, then pull and place the CMOS jumper, then put the battery back. Would not restart, even after multiple tries (5-8 times). Sometimes, when it didn't post I could hit the reset, get into Bios and it would lock, tighter than a drum! I think there must be an issue with something in regards to the OC safety mechanism(sp??)


----------



## End3R

I've noticed a lot of people have trouble with this, keep your memory voltage set to auto, that might work, it did for me


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsfkevski* 
I immediately put this HS on the NB of my friends new P5N-SLI MB as soon as it arrived as I had heard horror stories about the heat that this chipset generates. It fit great with a little extra motherboard standoffs to hold it tightly in place. Will work with stock hardware, just doesnt fit too tight.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109131

Dude, that's an awesome heatsink. Could you post some pictures of it installed? I know it's your friend's rig but I'd like to see it.

I was just going to go with the Spirit like most people.


----------



## TriBeCa

I'm so jealous of you OCZ whose RAM works in this board







I spent like 20 hours trying to get it stable before it killed my channel 2 dimm slots









Are any of you running with the OCZ 533 stuff that has the insane latencies (3-2-2-7)? That's the only chip OCZ makes that they recommend for this board.

dpawl, I had trouble with manual voltage setting on my OCZ as well. That's when I was *most* unstable. I also thought I noticed it was slightly more unstable when I set it to 2T manually.

And on the BIOS resetting issue, I reset with battery and jumper at least 20 times yesterday. The system locked up inside the bios nine times out of ten that it would actually get there, when I'd just failed to post (and sometimes even if the system had locked up in windows). Every so often I could win the race, though, and get in, load a stable OC profile, and save and exit before it locked up.

Finally, with the NB...although I never got to try and decent overclocks because of my RAM issue, my NB HS never even got warm. I just reseated it with a silver thermal compound (not AS5, the OCZ knockoff--but it's basically the same stuff). My CPU cooler (check my specs) actually extends overtop part of the NB HS and actively cools it. Also, my case has an articulated side vent that rests rite over the cpu fan, and I get it to under a cm within the fan blades, so the CPU fan also acts as an intake fan, and blows this air over it's own HS, the NB HS, and the RAM. My case also has a vent over PCI-E slots, so the combination of my PCI mounted fans and the 8800GTS fan cause even more intake (which is right over my uncooled SB too...).

So basically, with a ton of case airflow and some better thermal transfer, I suspect the stock NB HS will be fine for anything but really crazy OCs


----------



## jim.e.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


I've had the same issue with NO POST and having to pull the CMOS battery, then pull and place the CMOS jumper, then put the battery back. Would not restart, even after multiple tries (5-8 times). Sometimes, when it didn't post I could hit the reset, get into Bios and it would lock, tighter than a drum! I think there must be an issue with something in regards to the OC safety mechanism(sp??)


yup pretty much the same reason i had to pull the battery. the god damn bios was getting artifacting lol


----------



## jim.e.

i think i hit a wall.

tried x6 multiplier:









to see the maximum fsb i can achieve stable. after it failed orthos within a few seconds (locked up) no matter how much voltage i gave it (auto doesnt stand a chance, wont even boot. tried 1.35, 1.355, 1.36, 1.368). 
i tried a lower fsb of 371 and multi 7 and ran orthos rock solid for 12 minutes (ended it after that). 









im going to have to do the vdroop mod as ive noticed its voltage levels drop SIGNIFICANTLY under load. its at 1.31V (asus probe) and 1.362 in bios, but under load it dropped to 1.25V(asus probe)


----------



## TriBeCa

Have you tried dropping your vcore setting a bit and using the +100mV BIOS option? People have reported that the vdroop isn't as bad with that setting on.

Also, I'm not surprised you can't pull 400 FSB. Reportedly some e6400 chips can't handle it either.

You might also try pushing your RAM up a bit for a 1:1 ratio?


----------



## Lude

Quick question, dont feel like going through 70 pages, i went through the last 10.

How high of FSB's are people getting with this board?

And can it run 4gigs of memory fine?


----------



## jim.e.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Have you tried dropping your vcore setting a bit and using the +100mV BIOS option? People have reported that the vdroop isn't as bad with that setting on.

Also, I'm not surprised you can't pull 400 FSB. Reportedly some e6400 chips can't handle it either.

You might also try pushing your RAM up a bit for a 1:1 ratio?

try the +100mV later on when i get home...gotta head to class.


----------



## Kopi

I couldn't get 2 pairs of platinums to work...but my golds ran fine first shot. Try changing timings to something solid, instead of 4-5-4-15 try 4-4-4-12, apparently C2D don't like the mixup


----------



## JRussell1388

I just installed this board on my first build... and I'm running into a problem a little bit. Everytime I turn the computer on for the first time... I get the P5N-E Sli screen to show up... then after that the screen is just black.

I dont' knwo if I need different drivers or what? I'm having a problem because even though my monitor said "vista ready" and so did the motherboard... none of the software included has worked, and I keep finding a lot of beta software out there...

Is there a set of drivers I should go download that are the most current for this board... I'm a beginner, so I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right


----------



## Kopi

Well drivers can only be used if you're in windows...are you using a hard drive that has previously had stuff on it? When i had my board, i needed to format my HD becuase I'm guessing it didn't like the mobo drivers on there. I'd wait for another answer before formatting though, incase you dont have to


----------



## JRussell1388

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Well drivers can only be used if you're in windows...are you using a hard drive that has previously had stuff on it? When i had my board, i needed to format my HD becuase I'm guessing it didn't like the mobo drivers on there. I'd wait for another answer before formatting though, incase you dont have to


everything I've installed is brand new... so I'm guessing I should be ok there.

When I do a hard shutdown (I'm on the actual build right now) and reset, the monitor and everything loads up fine... of course it tells me Windows was not shut down properly, etc...

so it's only the "first time" I turn the computer on after it's been off. After a hard shutdown... it works fine


----------



## JCushing

jim if you want to go higher you might have to either try 1.4v+ core, up the voltage for the NB, or just try something higher than 400, the p5n-e has NB straps and you might be at the high end of one, try going higher and see of you can post.

my suggestion is try setting the memory unlinked and put the memory to its stock settings, up the cpu voltage to 1.45ish and the NB to 1.563, then just start plugging in FSB speeds, dont go into windows, just see what posts. keep trying in to the 450 range.


----------



## jim.e.

well i just got confirmation. e6300's after week 32 dont overclock that well if at all unless u use stupid amounts of voltage... long story short...mines a week 48 production.

will see what i can do when i get some PC6400 ram.


----------



## DonNiger

Where the hell is that bios file. The latest I see is rev 401. I think, I'm blind myby.

As long as I have heard, there is no problem to get stable FSB up to 480 Mhz, to go higher you need some knowledges.


----------



## Ravin

Cripes that was a long read. Man I really lucked out in grabbing a good board at a great price without doing the research first. Well all the files are backed up- I'm ready to yank the POS abit MB and X800XL out of the box and put in the ASUS. Just not looking forward to the reinstallation of all the software









I'll keep you guys posted!


----------



## jim.e.

im just gonna wait til my friend has time so he can oc my rig for me. i dont like messing around with the north bridge voltage. happy with a 2.53GHz 1:1 (fsb: dram) ratio oc that runs stable and passed orthos 2 hours and counting.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lude* 
Quick question, dont feel like going through 70 pages, i went through the last 10.

How high of FSB's are people getting with this board?

And can it run 4gigs of memory fine?

FSB seems to be limited by the CPU, not the board. There are reports of stable 500 MHz FSB's (iirc it was on a C2D 6400, maybe a 6600).

People say 4 GB is fine, but I'd recommend going with something that shows up in a manufacturers configurator, and not just picking something. There seem to be some issues with RAM (see my posts, lol) on the board, so I would expect it to be a bit finicky.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Where the hell is that bios file. The latest I see is rev 401. I think, I'm blind myby.

As long as I have heard, there is no problem to get stable FSB up to 480 Mhz, to go higher you need some knowledges.

It's been taken down of their site. I suspect they're repairing it. In fact, it may very well be that BIOS that killed my channel 2 DIMM slots. Apparently they've taken it down a couple times before.

Either that or their webserver went down and they restored an old backup ;p


----------



## TriBeCa

Forgot this one in that last post:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JRussell1388* 
so it's only the "first time" I turn the computer on after it's been off. After a hard shutdown... it works fine

Given the trouble this board has with memory, that's where I'd start.

Try running memtest and see if it comes up with errors. If it does, try setting the RAM timings manually to the manufacturers specs.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 

It's been taken down of their site. I suspect they're repairing it. In fact, it may very well be that BIOS that killed my channel 2 DIMM slots. Apparently they've taken it down a couple times before.

Either that or their webserver went down and they restored an old backup ;p

The 0401 killed my Corsair kit with the first boot. It was really a good one, PC5400 was running at 950 5-4-4-12-1T


----------



## TriBeCa

This is why I've sworn off ever using anything that's not recommended by a RAM manufacturer in this board....


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Dude, that's an awesome heatsink. Could you post some pictures of it installed? I know it's your friend's rig but I'd like to see it.

I was just going to go with the Spirit like most people.

I'm not quite sure how to post pics, pm me and let me know, but I do have a few that I took while building it. They are of the board with everything on it except the 7600GT, and as you will see, the two that I put on the board work fantastic and leave room for another 7600GT as well.


----------



## rsfkevski

I think I figured it out! Me So Toopid!


----------



## Lude

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
FSB seems to be limited by the CPU, not the board. There are reports of stable 500 MHz FSB's (iirc it was on a C2D 6400, maybe a 6600).

People say 4 GB is fine, but I'd recommend going with something that shows up in a manufacturers configurator, and not just picking something. There seem to be some issues with RAM (see my posts, lol) on the board, so I would expect it to be a bit finicky.

It's been taken down of their site. I suspect they're repairing it. In fact, it may very well be that BIOS that killed my channel 2 DIMM slots. Apparently they've taken it down a couple times before.

Either that or their webserver went down and they restored an old backup ;p

Ok, cool, thanks. Any idea on the E6300's avg highest fsb?

I think i might get the gskill hk's: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231114


----------



## TriBeCa

I didn't remember offhand, but with no more than about 5 minutes of looking for it I've seen 433 and 450, both x7.

The timings on those gskill's look real nice. They don't seem to have a memory configurator on their site, so if you do get them I'd manually set the timings to manufacturers spec (leave voltage on auto) and run memtest before doing really anything else. Return em if you get errors.

Of course, this is coming from the guy who killed DIMM slots 3 and 4 just trying to get a pair of OCZ pc 6400 platinum rev. 2's stable. So I tend to be cautious with RAM lol.


----------



## rsfkevski

Here are the timings that G.Skill needs on a P5N-E SLI. They worked great on a friend's build.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=132494


----------



## TriBeCa

Ooh, looks like there's a guy on there claiming he's got an e6300 @ 500x7...unless you can think of some other way he's get 3500 MHz on that chip.

That's, like, a crazy OZ. Almost 100%.


----------



## battlenut

A memory I found today figured I would give it a try was Super Talent never really heard of it but 1GB modules for around $100 I figured it was worth atry and it ran great.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Ooh, looks like there's a guy on there claiming he's got an e6300 @ 500x7...unless you can think of some other way he's get 3500 MHz on that chip.

That's, like, a crazy OZ. Almost 100%.

That was probably before week 32, everything after doesn't seem to clock as well.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:


Originally Posted by *battlenut* 
A memory I found today figured I would give it a try was Super Talent never really heard of it but 1GB modules for around $100 I figured it was worth atry and it ran great.

Super Talent is suppose to be the unheard of Hero when it comes to OCing RAM. Only one drawback, no lifetime warranty.


----------



## TriBeCa

pretty hefty drawback, imho.


----------



## JCushing

i have the cas 5 gskills and they are great. they were 160 when i bought em and are on sale for 130 (2 x 1gb) at the egg

also they run at cas 4 no prob


----------



## dpawl31

Holy heck lot of jibber jabber in mah home-thread!

LOL

Anyway - in regards to high FSB - over 500 has been proven at many tech sites. So no worries there









As far as 0505 BIOS, I have had no issues- any issues I attribute to other things, also for other peoples' problems I am 99% positive it isn't the BIOS. Asus' website always has issues with posting downloads. For that reason, I am attaching it to this post









I really don't think the BIOS killed your ram, Tribeca. In fact I am willing to bet your slots are OK. I found there is a lot of flukes that don't immediately get associated with the right things. ie my ram has to be on auto, or I get memtest and orthos errors









It seems the only real drawback with this board is it is still picky about ram and ram settings. I would say if that is the only issue- great board









I guess being the humble original poster of the thread, I would have to say it's a great board no matter what, hah!

I am going for 4Ghz tonight I think... gonna be interesting. Only 300Mhz away, but it doesn't post when I try for 4004Mhz (286Mhz x 14)

Since there are quite a few people here, new additions and such...
Welcome to all of you. Have fun, and good luck. I can't believe how many people are involved, how many posts, and how many VIEWS my thread has gotten in such a short time! hah.









*EDIT* Not posting 0505 file... apparently there ARE issues with it.


----------



## dpawl31

Oh by the way, to all of you who read the whole thread.



That's CRAZY. haha









I think I need to redo my main posts @ the beginning with all the information we've all learned over time.


----------



## rsfkevski

Just an FYI for everyone, updated friend's BIOS to 0505 and no longer can I clock the CPU down. E6600 is stuck at 9 and if I change it, it makes no difference. I dunno, me thinks I'll take it back to 0401.


----------



## dpawl31

 Strange. I guess it's good I forgot to post that file lol. I'll go edit that post!


----------



## dpawl31

Just edited first original two posts. *Please check them*, let me know what you think and let me know *anything* you think/wish to be listed!

PS- Just wanted to *thank you guys *for all the success of this board thread.
It has nearly iviews, and over 70 pages. Never, _NEVER_ did I expect this to happen when I started this. I am so happy









To everyone that gave me REP+ for this, I thank you also, if I have not in the past.

To anyone who hasn't voted 5 stars for this thread, do it up!
It's @ the top right of this page, if you are lost









Thanks guys!


----------



## dpawl31

I go to work for 10 hours... and all those posts. Then I get home, no activity.










Anyway... got to 3.8Ghz tonight... scary! 

@ 3.7Ghz, I was using 1.4v in bios w/o 100mv option.
vdroop'd to 1.32v in XP.
100% stable, 21 hours Orthos.

3.8Ghz... was @ 1.575v already, and failed orthos within minutes.
I can go up to 1.6v w/ the bios, plus 100mv gives me to 1.7v. 
1.575v droop'd to 1.42ish (ouch)
1.56v is reccommended max vcore for my chip, for 24/7 usage.
So, I say after vdroop, I should be able to hit 1.56v after droop by using 1.71v.
So the way I see it, I can't even hit my max voltage for my chip, which is good because I don't want to burn it out!

1.7v - 0.155v droop (guesstimate!) = 1.545v which is just below my specs.
So, I may make it to 4Ghz, or I may not. Considering I added 0.175v and was still unstable @ 100Mhz higher, I may not







I sure would like to tho!


----------



## DonNiger

Tried D920 meanwhile, 3,93 Ghz came but then I failed. No time to play, buck to C2D
For thouse, who can not figure out the best mem timings by themselves. Download the latest nTune and run the tuning wizard with customs settings, choose cpu and ram test. 
Before that, rise the volts for mem and cpu to the max you are not afraid to keep. Also, lower cpu and mem speeds to def. 
And run the 12 hours test. It works really.
Afterwards, uninstall the program because it likes to keep himself running with windows. Or just disable its application in registry.

E: like bios settings i used
CPU > 1,57v
Mem > 2,35v
FSB > 266
Mem > 800 Mhz
Cpu/Mem ratio > unlinked
Def. mem timings are [email protected] Mhz / I got something [email protected] Mhz. Because there is a quite a big difference between 1T and 2T, I triing to keep that 1T. And 440 for FSB is good to enough to run my cpu at 3.5 Ghz (8x).


----------



## dpawl31

You had a D920 @ 3.93? The 820 is the same damn chip - cept 90nm. 
Being the nm difference, no point in me asking you about you vcore... LOL


----------



## Ravin

Ok the new board is in the box- as expected not just the easy transplant.
1) Board layout sucks. Not a biggie, just a pain in the @55








2) It's a freakin power hog







that my Enermax 460W can just barely power the basic setup of one RAID array, CD, and Floppy. Anything more causes random shutdown cause the 5V is sagging. Figures- I bought the PSU way back when....it was about the biggest one out and it was running the fastest CPU of the day *cough* PIII 500MHz.








3) My Rocket Raid ATA card makes it beep incessantly. Maybe a PSU issue?








4) There was not a freakin floppy with the RAID drivers on it







Sure there are the drivers on CD, but the XP install requires a FLOPPY. Way to go ASUS. So I have made the floppys from the CD at work. We'll see what happens tonight when I get home.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


You had a D920 @ 3.93? The 820 is the same damn chip - cept 90nm. 
Being the nm difference, no point in me asking you about you vcore... LOL


I've had my 820 up to 3.5 before running into temperatrure issues. I think with good cooling and power 3.93 could be achieved, although it would be quite an impressive OC.


----------



## dpawl31

I had FSB @ 272 last night, but it needed more voltage. (3.8Ghz)
I just added my 3.7Ghz stable OC to the Intel list, should be added to the spreadsheet soon







Wutchu think bout THAT OC?









4004Mhz is my goal, 286FSB.
Oh crap! I never tried 272Mhz w/ a NB boost... hmm that mighta done it!

As far as your first post there, the board layout doesn't suck. Only really sucks if you have a floppy







haha.

Quote:



Enermax 460W can just barely power


Most definately not a good PSU for a rig like that. You have 2GB RAM, 6 HDD?!?!
My PSU is on the Tier 2 list @ Johnny Guru, and it's about $70 right now @ some places. 600w







SLI Ready







Dual Rail








I would say the RAID card, yes it is causing PSU draw over the limit.
As far as RAID drivers, I don't have a clue, haven't done RAID yet 
I plan on two WD 16MBCache SATAII drives (250GB) in a few months. RAID-0

**EDIT** Can't wait to see someone with my board and my CPU







Let's have an OC race hehe.
Oops I win haha. Good luck, I bet you'll have no problem getting 3.5Ghz, it was a suicide shot for me and was rock solid. 250FSB vcore 1.4v (Now @ 1.4v - 265Mhz... try that first! hah)


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


I think I figured it out! Me So Toopid!


















Awesome!

The Thermalright HR-05-SLI is a dollar cheaper than the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II plus you don't have extra power requirements and it's completely silent, unless of course you add a fan.

That makes me rethink my cooling strategy.

This is great. You guys are doing all of the work for me and then all I need to do is shell out the cash to get the rewards.


----------



## dpawl31

I really don't think that is neccessary for the SB, LOL.
Anyway- it looks rockin'! $20 a bit much for the SB tho.

I would lap that bad boy... it's pure copper - nickel plated.
Lap it down to the bare copper it would be gorgeous!
(Not that you see the lapped side after installed... lol)


----------



## dpawl31

Yay I made #54 with my new stable OC


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


As far as your first post there, the board layout doesn't suck. Only really sucks if you have a floppy







haha.


It really sucks with the BTX format of my case. The NB HS barely clears the wind tunnel. Also the CAP and connector placement makes things hard to connect and route wiring.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Most definately not a good PSU for a rig like that. You have 2GB RAM, 6 HDD?!?!


Yea, it's ancient, but has served well. It has been transplanted from the PIII 500MHz to the PIII 1GHz, to the Dual PIII 1GHz, and finally to the 820 system that is getting transplants. I'm surprised that it ran all that stuff with the 820 in the box. I figured it would be time for an upgrade, but was hoping that I could wait until I put the 2nd 7600gt in.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I would say the RAID card, yes it is causing PSU draw over the limit.
As far as RAID drivers, I don't have a clue, haven't done RAID yet 
I plan on two WD 16MBCache SATAII drives (250GB) in a few months. RAID-0


It figures. We'll see after this weekend's trip to Frys. I hope that is all it is, all my files are backed up on the 40Gb array that runs on ATA133. That too, is nearly as old as dirt.

Once all my stuff is back together we'll race. I think that I can hit 3.7 with a new PSU as long as the cooling holds out.


----------



## Thrice

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Awesome!

The Thermalright HR-05-SLI is a dollar cheaper than the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II plus you don't have extra power requirements and it's completely silent, unless of course you add a fan.

That makes me rethink my cooling strategy.

This is great. You guys are doing all of the work for me and then all I need to do is shell out the cash to get the rewards.










Parry - have you tried putting a vid card in with those things on? No way my geforce 8800 will fit with that installed that way.


----------



## dpawl31

Perry didn't post that, kevski did.
8800 is a major issue with that HS... gotta get a low one.

Ravin- why BTX case w/ ATX board? lol
I would say that PSU served you well. Time to bury it. lol
I want to get dual 7600 too, that's why I got my PSU.
As far as you getting 3.7, seems you have decent cooling...cept that stock CPU cooler!  You won't make it but I bet 3.5Ghz will be fine. (250FSB)
I have nearly equiv case cooling except a 200mm addition lol. That REALLY helps, A LOT. sucks the heat out real good. Like, 6C difference from low to high on that fan alone.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Ok the new board is in the box- as expected not just the easy transplant.
1) Board layout sucks. Not a biggie, just a pain in the @55








2) It's a freakin power hog







that my Enermax 460W can just barely power the basic setup of one RAID array, CD, and Floppy. Anything more causes random shutdown cause the 5V is sagging. Figures- I bought the PSU way back when....it was about the biggest one out and it was running the fastest CPU of the day *cough* PIII 500MHz.








3) My Rocket Raid ATA card makes it beep incessantly. Maybe a PSU issue?








4) There was not a freakin floppy with the RAID drivers on it







Sure there are the drivers on CD, but the XP install requires a FLOPPY. Way to go ASUS. So I have made the floppys from the CD at work. We'll see what happens tonight when I get home.


1) What dont you like about the layout?

2) How is the BOARD a power hog? Me guesses thats your PSU, not the board.

3) Not sure

4) Make your own floppy?


----------



## dpawl31

He already replied to all the Kopi. LoL


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
You had a D920 @ 3.93? The 820 is the same damn chip - cept 90nm.
Being the nm difference, no point in me asking you about you vcore... LOL


That D was running 24/7 3.9 before without any issue.
This D has done 4.7 before. NOT BY ME!!!

bs, if anybody wants to burn it, it's available.

Have some issues with cooling, but otherwize, not bad at all:



That MB really loves low timings but hates high clocks


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


He already replied to all the Kopi. LoL


Yup. Sure did. I think the board is power hungry because it was the only change in the system before getting the random shutdowns. I suspect the MCH on the P5N-E SLI doesn't like the sag on the 5V 3.3V rails. All my other rails are actually above spec by .2-.4 V.

Well I'm outta here for the day. If you see a post from me before Monday you'll know that I've gotten all the issues taken care of.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Perry didn't post that, kevski did.
8800 is a major issue with that HS... gotta get a low one.

Ravin- why BTX case w/ ATX board? lol
I would say that PSU served you well. Time to bury it. lol
I want to get dual 7600 too, that's why I got my PSU.
As far as you getting 3.7, seems you have decent cooling...cept that stock CPU cooler!  You won't make it but I bet 3.5Ghz will be fine. (250FSB)
I have nearly equiv case cooling except a 200mm addition lol. That REALLY helps, A LOT. sucks the heat out real good. Like, 6C difference from low to high on that fan alone.


cause the case was cool and also cheap.
The PSU is still usable. I'll keep it for when I upgrade the CPU and RAM from the 820 so I can rebuild for a dedicated folder. I still have the Abit board, a POS case from an old PII, and the X800XL (which is only working to display one monitor now- no biggie for a folder).

Speaking of folding, I find it kinda funny that I'm still up at #52 since I shut down the farm ages ago, along with dedicating my 820 for modeling contaminant transport fate at work. The folding farm has been turned over to crunch numbers for permitting an ethanol plant that we're trying to get off the ground in Eastern Washington, so at least all that processing power is going to a good cause still.


----------



## TriBeCa

Okeee. My new Corsair chips and replacement MB came today. Reseated the NB HS and got everything set up, RAM passed a round of memtest tests, and I'm getting windows installed now....

Will keep ya'll posted as I get into OCing it


----------



## Kopi

My bad, im teh nub


----------



## Ravin

WoooooooooooooHoooooooooooooooo! My box is back up and running






















. Now for all the update downloads


----------



## TriBeCa

Hahaha. Yeah, that's what I'm doing...I'm on the third round of them, which is SP2 for me.

Thank god I'm on a ~20mbit connection here ;p


----------



## TriBeCa

well no trouble at all up to 350 x 8 = 2800 so far.


----------



## rsfkevski

Yeah, the Thermalright HR-05-SLI that WAS on the SB is no longer, decided to put a Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro on the SB and it will allow an 8800 I do believe. No pics yet, sorry.


----------



## TriBeCa

Ok, I think I'm stable at 375 x 8 = 3GHz. I'm not sure I can get any higher than this without better cooling.

Here's what it looks like:

CPU: 3 GHz
RAM: 800 MHz 4-4-4-12-2T

Vcore: 1.4V (1.33-1.36 under load)
vdimm: 2.058V
NB: 1.56V

Temps:
CPU: 57 after 20 minutes of orthos
Core: 70 (peak)
MB: 44 (peak)

Part of the heat is where I keep my case--basically in a cabinet with another computer. Taking it out of there drops the temp 4-6 degrees.


----------



## Kopi

woaho! Your Core is waaaaaaay too high. 70c is too much man, keep it under 60 for safety and 65c MAX


----------



## TriBeCa

Yeah, after thinking about it for a few minutes I pulled the case out of the cabinet. I've now got it set up outside of there--7 hours of orthos at that speed, core temp never went over 63 after I pulled it out.

So, I'm stable with the settings I posted above. I can get a stable boot into windows and at least 15 minutes of orthos (haven't tried longer) at 387.5 x 8 = 3.1 GHz, but I can't seem to get remotely stable at 400 -> 3.2, which is my goal. After less than 30 seconds of orthos the system hangs (core temps still under 60 when it hangs). I tried pushing the voltage up in steps to 1.45, with no luck. I also tried loosening the RAM timings to 5-5-5-15. I've heard that some people have trouble at 400, so I tried going to 412.5, still no luck (windows doesn't even load).

The trouble with 387.5 is that I can't get a 31:32 ratio, so it underclocks my RAM to the match the cpu.

Any suggestions?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

The trouble with 387.5 is that I can't get a 31:32 ratio, so it underclocks my RAM to the match the cpu.
Is it not stable? Otherwise manually set the divider by using full manual control and manually entering 1550QDR & 800DDR.


----------



## TriBeCa

The BIOS is set at 1550 and 800, but CPU-Z reports the RAM at 387.5.

But what I really want is a 400Mhz FSB


----------



## dpawl31

Hmm wierd.
Everytime I manually set it, it does what I say








Maybe you just need to whip it into submission like I do


----------



## Ravin

XP and Norton are now fully updated....going to Fry's for a new PSU now. Anyone need a parts pickup while I'm there?


----------



## DonNiger

I cann't anyhow reach the rated speed of my mem. At least with acceptable timings. So far 810 (rated 900) Mhz has OK timings, higher wants 2T







Does anybody useing OCZ PC-7200 sticks here?


----------



## Ravin

New PSU is in, nearly everything is plugged in (I'm short one molex plug). No random shutdown yet, but the RocketRaid 454 card still makes it BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP incessantly









See you guys in a few boot cycles.


----------



## Ravin

Its the RAID card that is beeping. Just found the speaker on it. Dunno-Going to check the mfg page and troubleshoot


----------



## JCushing

well so far this new bios doesnt seem to be any better for overclocking. my max post OC and max stable windows OC seem to be pretty close. if anything 401 was better.


----------



## JCushing

also interesting to note that my memory seems to have no affect on performance. i was barely able to get 1t to run st 800mhz 5 5 5 15 and it was no faster in pi then 2t at the same latency. i also tried 4 4 4 12 at 800 mhz same PI time, i overclocked it at 5 5 5 15 up to 930mhz! still the same PI time! (17 seconds). im thinking this is becuase at 365*9 im so far below my ram speed, increasing the ram closk just wont have any more bennifits.

so bottom line with 505 is its no better for me then 401 but not evidently any worse.

i also upped my previously best OC from 3.2 to 3.28 by upping the voltage to 1.48vcore compared to my previous 3.2 OC at auto settings.

so anyway maybe something besides super pi will bennifit from faster memory, ill have to look into that later but current results are 3.28ghz 930mhz on the ram at 5 5 5 15

oddly i still cant set my CPU miltiplier lower. i wouldnt mind going down to an 8 multy so i could do 1:1 with the ram at 820ish 4 4 4 12. id prolly squeak more performance out of it that way.


----------



## Ravin

Well, no dice on the RAID card. I can't figure it out. I'm just going to put it into another box and see what happens. Maybe it's fried.

On another note I've flashed the BIOS from 0202 to 0401 and now can not access the BIOS screen during startup. The screen just goes black after I hit Del. Any1 got ideas on this one?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Well, no dice on the RAID card. I can't figure it out. I'm just going to put it into another box and see what happens. Maybe it's fried.

On another note I've flashed the BIOS from 0202 to 0401 and now can not access the BIOS screen during startup. The screen just goes black after I hit Del. Any1 got ideas on this one?









That's not cool!
What did you use to flash it? There is a windows flash program, the EZFlash in the BIOS, and you can manually do it but I have never done that








Have you cleared CMOS yet? That might do it.


----------



## Crash22

sorry if this has been asked/answered already in this thread, but i don't have enough time to search through all those pages atm lol. I'm new to this and was wondering whats a safe temp for this mobo to operate at under load?


----------



## dpawl31

Motherboard temp, NB temp or CPU temp?


----------



## Crash22

motherboard


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crash22*


motherboard



Generally no worries... you have to worry about they chips - the board itself doesn't create heat, it gets warm because of the chips.

If I remember right, the "motherboard" sensor is down in the PCI slot area.
So, esentially you can think of it as ambient case temp.

Bigger worries are northbridge, CPU and GPU.

CPU most obvious first. Depending on your chip, the max temp varies. Please fill in your system specs (USER CP, EDIT SYSTEM)
The northbridge won't get too hot unless you overclock a bit, or up the NB voltage. The GPU, depending on what you run, tend to get real hot, but are designed to handle it. My card maxes @ 115C







!


----------



## Crash22

Ok thanks. Was just curious since I overclocked my E6600 to 3.0ghz and the mobo temp was showing 55C under load, where as the CPU was only showing 37C. As for the system specs, i've filled them out about 10 times and for whatever reason it refuses to show up when i post


----------



## TriBeCa

Ravin, there's no way that should be happening just because of the BIOS update. Are you sure your RAM is ok in the board? I had real trouble with my first RAM kit, and I was getting a lot of the kind of thing you're talking about. It wasn't entirely clear what the problem was, but my whole system was unstable. I ended up clearing the CMOS about 20 or 30 times before two of the boards DIMM slots died.

On another note, I seem to have reached my OCing goal







Had to tape an 800mm fan onto the side of my case, but it works great. Dropped the core temp by several degrees when I did it. I'm thinking about drilling a set of small holes into the plexiglass so it can act as an intake fan.

Just shy of 5 hours stable at:

CPU: 400 * 8 = 3.2 GHz
RAM: 400 * 2 = 800MHz; 4-4-4-12-1T

BIOS
Vcore: 1.456V (~0.08 vdroop)
Vdimm: 2.08V
NB: Auto

Temps
CPU: 48-49 (load)
Cores: 60-65 (load)

At around 9 hours stable I'll screenshot it and show you guys


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*









That's not cool!
What did you use to flash it? There is a windows flash program, the EZFlash in the BIOS, and you can manually do it but I have never done that








Have you cleared CMOS yet? That might do it.



I used the EZ flash2 in the BIOS. I haven't cleared the CMOS yet either.

What's really odd is that everything else on the system appears to be working. Windows comes right up and gosh darn fast too.....The nVidia chips on this board actually seem to run hella faster than the intel 945p on the last MB.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ravin, there's no way that should be happening just because of the BIOS update. Are you sure your RAM is ok in the board? I had real trouble with my first RAM kit, and I was getting a lot of the kind of thing you're talking about. It wasn't entirely clear what the problem was, but my whole system was unstable. I ended up clearing the CMOS about 20 or 30 times before two of the boards DIMM slots died.


The ram is good-both the BIOS (on the POST) and XP recognize every last byte. These chips have been in the box for nearly 2 years now on the old board. It definetly happened due to the flash- I was in the BIOS quite a bit before the flash, and the problem began on the first boot after the 0401 flash.


----------



## [email protected]

This board seems very, very good.
Would it run G86 in SLI?


----------



## TriBeCa

I don't know specifically, but people haven't been reporting any trouble with SLI on this board. Somewhere in this thread somebody posted proof of dual 8800's on this board. The only thing SLI will interfere with on the board is the top PCI slot and anything but a really low SB cooler.

Orthos error at 5.5 hours







Fiddling with it...hopefully I'll get something stable soon.


----------



## [email protected]

This motherboard seems like my next upgrade in june(my b-day).
I think it's my mobo that doesn't let my hd's run in sata2 an overclock the cpu


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crash22*


Ok thanks. Was just curious since I overclocked my E6600 to 3.0ghz and the mobo temp was showing 55C under load, where as the CPU was only showing 37C. As for the system specs, i've filled them out about 10 times and for whatever reason it refuses to show up when i post











My god that is a hot MB... are you using PC Probe?

I don't get how your board can be that hot.. that's not good. Maybe a faulty sensor? See if your board feels hot around the PCI slots. 55C is 131F so it should feel mighty warm.

Somethin' ain't right there!


----------



## dpawl31

TRIBECA:

Quote:



On another note, I seem to have reached my OCing goal







Had to tape an 800mm fan onto the side of my case


I hope the hell you meant 80mm. LoL.
800mm is 4 times wider than my fan (200mm) and it takes up nearly 50% of the real estate atop my case! 800mm would be 4 cases wide and two cases front to back









I am bettin' you meant 80mm







haha


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I used the EZ flash2 in the BIOS. I haven't cleared the CMOS yet either.

What's really odd is that everything else on the system appears to be working. Windows comes right up and gosh darn fast too.....The nVidia chips on this board actually seem to run hella faster than the intel 945p on the last MB.

The ram is good-both the BIOS (on the POST) and XP recognize every last byte. These chips have been in the box for nearly 2 years now on the old board. It definetly happened due to the flash- I was in the BIOS quite a bit before the flash, and the problem began on the first boot after the 0401 flash.



Well, have you tried CMOS yet?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*

This board seems very, very good.
Would it run G86 in SLI?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I don't know specifically, but people haven't been reporting any trouble with SLI on this board. Somewhere in this thread somebody posted proof of dual 8800's on this board. The only thing SLI will interfere with on the board is the top PCI slot and anything but a really low SB cooler.

Orthos error at 5.5 hours







Fiddling with it...hopefully I'll get something stable soon.



Yes, 8600s would run great on it








You will be running 8x 8x SLI, not 16x, but studies have shown it's in single digit percentile (ie 4% ish) of a performance difference. Save $100+ on this board, and lose 4%? Heck yes









Orthos error @ 5.5? That's really strange. What was the error?
I would bet your OC is stable, I think something else is fluky. Maybe case temps?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[email protected]*


This motherboard seems like my next upgrade in june(my b-day).
I think it's my mobo that doesn't let my hd's run in sata2 an overclock the cpu


You'll get a killer OC with that D... look at mine, and mine is the 90nm








This board will run SATAII, and let you OC your CPU, obviously. LOL


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Orthos error @ 5.5? That's really strange. What was the error? I would bet your OC is stable, I think something else is fluky. Maybe case temps?


I'm past 5.5 hour mark now, almost at 6. My last run failed at 3 hours, so I don't think it's something fluky.

Also doubt it's case temps--cores were ranging from 58-60 to 64-66 (I have a two degree square wave going in my temperature readings all the time...is this normal? I've been assuming it's the sensors), CPU never higher than 51, MB at a steady 38.

What I think was doing it was these semi-regular vcore drops down to 1.6V I was getting. So far on this run I haven't seen it drop below about 1.78, which is basically where it was before, but with these annoying dips that I suspect lead to it being unstable.

We'll see...I'm gonna go for 8 hours and then call it stable.

P.S. dpawl I use that exact image in my sig on another board...do you have ANY idea how confusing it is to see it next to someone elses posts??? ;p


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



CPU never higher than 51



Quote:



cores were ranging from 58-60 to 64-66


Cores = CPU... how can you not go over 51 being @ 66?
Did you mean 51 is idle?









Holy hell your voltage is @ 1.78v? VCORE?! WAY too high for C2D...?

I found the image a few days ago, was listed as "Everytime you mas-----te god kills a kitten" lol
I bet it's confusing







I have been told over and over that I am "decently" known around OCN, but it doesn't STICK in peoples heads because my avatar doesn't POP. Now it POPS! Or, er, is about to pop... the kitten? lol


----------



## TriBeCa

ermmm...I'm having trouble making sense today.

first an 800mm fan, now 1.7 vcore....

I meant 1.376...versus drops to 1.36 which I suspect was the cause of the instability.

It's my northbridge that's at >1.7.

And CPU!=core. There are seperate sensors. Asus Probe just reports CPU temp, not core. For core temp you need speedfan, or something else.

You'll see it in my speedfan window when I post a screeny at 8 hours stable...in 1.5 hours (hopefully)


----------



## DonNiger

Somebody asked about the SLI. I have an issue. Every time I make a restart, the SLI is off. Haven't found a solution jet.


----------



## dpawl31

Tribeca that's just funny stuff 800mm and 1.7vcore lol.

Were you referring to the different cores, core0 core1 being 2C off? That's fine.
Core1 will usually be cooler as it isn't used as heavy as core0.

Don- did you flip the SLI card over? lol (the little card on the motherboard between the PCIE slots)


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Tribeca that's just funny stuff 800mm and 1.7vcore lol.

Were you referring to the different cores, core0 core1 being 2C off? That's fine.
Core1 will usually be cooler as it isn't used as heavy as core0.

Don- did you flip the SLI card over? lol (the little card on the motherboard between the PCIE slots)


Hi, I said that the sli is off after restart. I mean, I have to enable it in win each time I boot up. Ofcourse the card has been turned around.


----------



## dpawl31

Wow that is strange!
... I haven't SLI'd yet so I can't really help you.


----------



## Ravin

I haven't done the CMOS yet- I'm still installing tons of software first. To tell you the truth I'm not to worried at the moment as I'm not ready to start bringing the clock speeds up until after all the installs. I'll keep you guys posted









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


ermmm...I'm having trouble making sense today.

first an 800mm fan, now 1.7 vcore....


800mm? Thats nearly 3 feet!


----------



## TriBeCa

Here it is:










And the temp thing I'm talking about is not a difference between the cores...see here:










DonNiger: is SLI maybe turned off in the BIOS? Thought there was a setting for that somewhere....


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



DonNiger: is SLI maybe turned off in the BIOS? Thought there was a setting for that somewhere....


Yup. . . maybe that's it.

Those pics are TINYYYYYY

ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM (Mazda pun slightly intended







)


----------



## dpawl31

RAVIN- Clear CMOS already! LOL I want to know!


----------



## TriBeCa

Err, sorry about the picks. Want me to repost em?

And PS: I just 3dMarked at 11442, which is #19 on their online databse


----------



## DonNiger

I think I have reached to the max of my CPU. There is no more volt to add in bios









last stable clocks:


----------



## dpawl31

Woohah! Nice OC Don!

Tribeca, post the first pic so I can see you details


----------



## TriBeCa

V. nice OC.

I like those RAM timings....

I'm thinking about trying to push under 4-4-4-12 on my corsairs. Any hints on how to do this? I've never tweaked RAM timings before.


----------



## TriBeCa

How's this?


----------



## dpawl31

Mucho better!







Nice job!


----------



## Wheezy Baby

I will soon be part of this thread =D

Getting mine in 10 days!


----------



## Kopi

Awesome OC'ing guys. How can you have used up all the voltage options, dont they go to like 1.75


----------



## dpawl31

1.6 + 100mv = 1.7v
I think ur thinking of NB


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Awesome OC'ing guys. How can you have used up all the voltage options, dont they go to like 1.75


Congrats!


----------



## Kopi

Err...what now? Whats the max vcore allowed?


----------



## DonNiger

Going to change the CPU waterblock next week. Hope, I'll have some more.


----------



## dpawl31

1.6v technically, but 1.7v is achieved via 1.6v + 100mv ON.


----------



## dpawl31

Tribeca you should really rethink your cooling situation, I would not be happy with that high of a core temp with a pricy chip


----------



## dpawl31

OK So who's buyin my e6320 for my birthday?








It's April 2nd, pretty soon.

You can wait till it gets released and all, that's cool.
If you all want to chip in, ya know, for me startin this thread and all, Maybe you guys can buy me one of dem fancy better chips 

lol







jk!
(But it is me berfday soon!)


----------



## TriBeCa

Yeah, I agree. I'm thinking the easiest will be to drill holes in the plexiglass side (you *can* do that right?) to make the 80mm fan I stuck there into an intake fan. Just putting that fan in dropped core temp by 4 degrees, so giving it some intake should add a few more.

I just played an hour or so of CoD2 and temps never went over 51. I think it should be fine for now.


----------



## dpawl31

I vote for a new case







haha


----------



## TriBeCa

Lol, no. It's a new case, and it's rather attractive. Nothing wrong with the case.

If anything I'd replace the CPU cooler, as the one I have doesn't really cut it. It's built to be quiet.

But drilling very small holes in the side of the case should work great.


----------



## JCushing

i got the sunbeam silent whisper. works awsome for only 17 bux.... ive never been over 50 degrees ever


----------



## dpawl31

Er, Bigval just hit me with a doosy.
He said not to worry even up to 70C... he said start to be concerned with 80C+.
This goes against everything I've learned







I need to get proof before I start telling people it's OK... holy crap... lol


----------



## TriBeCa

I think you're just used to thinking of CPU temp, rather than core temp. That's what most temp sensors show. 65 would be way high for cpu.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Er, Bigval just hit me with a doosy.
He said not to worry even up to 70C... he said start to be concerned with 80C+.
This goes against everything I've learned







I need to get proof before I start telling people it's OK... holy crap... lol

Err....hes wrong. Thats like graphics card temps...C2D shoudl stay below 65c...anything above it is overly hot.

on MY part of the OC, i still have to get an LGA 775 bracket...right now at 3ghz on the e6300 and 1.250 volts its idle is 33c and load is 46c. Thats Stock coolign and stock paste that game with the cooler, that stuff that was pre applied.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


RAVIN- Clear CMOS already! LOL I want to know!


















Got it








Although when I cleared the CMOS I was able to access the BIOS, the boot priority went from the SATA RAID array to one of my secondary ATA drives. Pain in the @55 really- I had to install a copy of XP on that drive to copy some system files to boot XP from the RAID array.









So....Now everything is as it should be, except I need to blank this HDD again to get rid of the extra XP install. Just plain odd.

I'm still trying to get the PCI ATA RAID controller working. I'm taking it into the office and going to plug it into my computer there. I just hope the PSU on that rig can handle 2 more drives and the card!


----------



## dpawl31

LOLz sorry! But being you run raid and what not, you have to expect to reenter everything








You should have just entered the bios and switch to SATA boot? Right? I never have run raid so I am unsure. If you clear cmos and have to reinstall after, I am not going raid lol.

G'luck with the raid card.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


LOLz sorry! But being you run raid and what not, you have to expect to reenter everything








You should have just entered the bios and switch to SATA boot? Right? I never have run raid so I am unsure. If you clear cmos and have to reinstall after, I am not going raid lol.

G'luck with the raid card.










I dunno what happened. Something about a missing or corrupt DLL file







I just installed to a secondary IDE drive to grab the file and copy to the SATA drive. Also there is no preference in the boot for IDE vs SATA, only HDD/Floppy/Removable/Disabled. Seems you would want to be able to specify which HDD to boot from.


----------



## dpawl31

Maybe unplug your IDE next time? hehe


----------



## battlenut

System crashing for no reason, changed setting in bios to overclock but no over****ing. just setup. Then maybe a couple hours go by then "BSOD". don't understand this. got some help earlier to overclock this cpu and some one gave me a guide for it and thats when all the problems started. Whats up can anyone explain this.


----------



## dpawl31

You did something wrong 

Have you tried reverting to full stock?
Have you also tried clearing CMOS and such?


----------



## battlenut

set defaults in bios, didn't happen any more. I followed that guide I was given to the T. I don't know what happened. I'm gonna try again soon I'll let ya know.


----------



## TriBeCa

I'd bet $100 it's those RAM chips. If you read back 20 pages or so you'll see I had crazy instability just trying to get stable on stock settings, and then my 2 GB OCZ Platinum Revision II 6400's killed the dimm slots on the board. So I RMA'd the board and returned the RAM for a corsair kit, and everything was golden. Stable on my e6400 at 400 x 8.

If I were you, I'd return my RAM and get something that shows up in a memory configurator. From OCZ I think there's only their their 533 stuff, though the timings are real nice on em.


----------



## Ravin

Well....Hours later and I've at least resolved that the PCI RAID controller I have works just fine.







I have it in my rig at work right now pulling the data off the stripe and putting it onto a single 200Gb drive at this very moment.























So what now....Think the PCI slots are shot? Is that even possible with the PCI-E slot working fine?

Still trying to figure out the boot priority issue, but it's real progress I've made. I'm just happy to have acceess to my jpg and mp3 files again!


----------



## TriBeCa

Why not use the onboard RAID?


----------



## dpawl31

I have had no problems with my OCZ, as well as others.
Seems to ONLY be the platinum?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Why not use the onboard RAID?


I am for the 2 SATA drives, but I still have 4 IDE drives that the 650i won't support RAID for. No matter, I'm just going to use the 2 200gb HDDs for storage seperately, and pull the 2 20gb drives out for the Abit AL-8 board that I'm going to rebuild once I buy a Q6600 and some new RAM for the P5N-E SLI. Sure it'll be a while- probably when the 45nm chips and DDR3 come out and the price drops on the Q6600 and DDR2.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


I think I have reached to the max of my CPU. There is no more volt to add in bios









last stable clocks: 


Hey Don, would you like to share your Bios settings. IE>vcore, NB, etc.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


I think I have reached to the max of my CPU. There is no more volt to add in bios









last stable clocks: 


Hey I forgot to ask you Don, did you use +100mv?
That would bring your voltage up a lot too.

I would think another BIOS revision or two and they'll have more voltage options









Ravin... what the hell do you need 800GB for lol.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I have had no problems with my OCZ, as well as others.
Seems to ONLY be the platinum?


I suspect so. I've seen it said on another forum that this board has problems with specific chips and manufacturers. Which was definately my experience. So I'd say you're taking a shot in the dark with any RAM that hasn't been tested in the board.


----------



## TriBeCa

By the way, I used the guide posted here to achieve my OC. Did quite a few things differently, but it made a very useful framework for my first OC. Thought other people might appreciate it.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hey I forgot to ask you Don, did you use +100mv?
That would bring your voltage up a lot too.

I would think another BIOS revision or two and they'll have more voltage options









Ravin... what the hell do you need 800GB for lol.



Why not,

CPU, 1.55v + vdroop. Shows 1.57 in windows. (No difference useing 1.6 + vdroop)
Mem 2.35v
NB 1.54v
FSB/Mem ratio is linked

MB temp max 36
CPU max 64

Mem timings set manualy

It is not 24/7 stable settings, so last 24h have been testing 8x455, mem 910Mhz. Looks better.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Ravin... what the hell do you need 800GB for lol.


Lol.....I've had the 2x20 raid array since the dawn ow time when the PIII machine I had was still kicking the crap out of the P4 2.8 machines. I bought the 2x200 drives for the same PIII machine when my wife bought an iPod about a 1.5-2yrs ago. Funny thing how one upgrade leads to another......

The old PIII machine's BIOS would only recognize something like 34Gb of HDD. So being the good husband, I thought why the hell not flash this old box and keep it running.....and poof, all the blue smoke that they seal inside the NB and caps started leaking out









Its a shame too.... dual PIII tualitins sitting in the board now useless. Those things were awesome, capable of a 100% overclock. Time for a new build....

Enter the Pentium D.....Just days away from release I had an inside from the Hillsboro factory. I got mine litterally off the production line on release day and wouldn't you know it..... MB makers quit supporting IDE RAID.....so..... out to Frys I went and picked up a RAID controller.....which I couldn't boot from.....meaning I had togo back to Frys and buy a couple of SATA drives......All because the wife had to upgrade from casette tapes and CDs to the iPod.









These days I've dedicated 200Gb as file service for work. The rest is all mine for well.....whatever media. Sure over half of it is empty now, but I remember the first build......."64Kb of ram and 10Mb of HDD is ALL YOU'LL EVER NEED......." and the old XT still actually runs.









Finally- Last night I checked my PCI slots with sme NIC and Modem cards and it works just fine.... So this MB and my RAID card just don't like each other. totally wierd.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


**EDIT** Can't wait to see someone with my board and my CPU







Let's have an OC race hehe. Oops I win haha. Good luck, I bet you'll have no problem getting 3.5Ghz, it was a suicide shot for me and was rock solid. 250FSB vcore 1.4v (Now @ 1.4v - 265Mhz... try that first! hah)


You're on. Now that I'm reloaded with software and everything is stable at stock it's time to crank it up. BTW......I've already hit 3.5 stable on the old mobo, although the temps were too high to run 100% safely. Now that the crappy heat tape is off and I've got AS5 on and cured I've seen a 10C drop in op temp.

It will be interesting to see how this board does since you can unlink the RAM timing from the FSB. I'm going for 4.0 Ghz on air!


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Why not,

CPU, 1.55v + vdroop. Shows 1.57 in windows. (No difference useing 1.6 + vdroop)
Mem 2.35v
NB 1.54v
FSB/Mem ratio is linked

MB temp max 36
CPU max 64

Mem timings set manualy

It is not 24/7 stable settings, so last 24h have been testing 8x455, mem 910Mhz. Looks better.


Thanks Don, I'll try similar settings and see where that gets me.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Thanks Don, I'll try similar settings and see where that gets me.



Before you try, I'll add that CPU, mobo and VGA'a are under water. And it is'nt any TT's crap.

I really lave my OCZ's already. 2 hour stable run @1050 Mhz 4-3-3-5-2T


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Why not,

CPU, 1.55v + vdroop. Shows 1.57 in windows. (No difference useing 1.6 + vdroop)
Mem 2.35v
NB 1.54v
FSB/Mem ratio is linked

MB temp max 36
CPU max 64

Mem timings set manualy

It is not 24/7 stable settings, so last 24h have been testing 8x455, mem 910Mhz. Looks better.

You should refer to it as the +100mv, when you say "+ vdroop" I got confused, thinking you meant accomodating for vdroop.

So if you are @ 1.55v +100mv, that's 1.65v. You still have 0.05v to go, and you could even bump the NB up again. Why not try it? I bet the NB would do the trick to stabilize it.

How are you getting such high temps on load with water cooling?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I suspect so. I've seen it said on another forum that this board has problems with specific chips and manufacturers. Which was definately my experience. So I'd say you're taking a shot in the dark with any RAM that hasn't been tested in the board.

Yeah i had platinums aswell that were no good. I changed them up for golds, which i had a question about.

5-5-5-12 or 4-5-4-15....seems like gold are better anyways?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
You're on. Now that I'm reloaded with software and everything is stable at stock it's time to crank it up. BTW......I've already hit 3.5 stable on the old mobo, although the temps were too high to run 100% safely. Now that the crappy heat tape is off and I've got AS5 on and cured I've seen a 10C drop in op temp.

It will be interesting to see how this board does since you can unlink the RAM timing from the FSB. I'm going for 4.0 Ghz on air!























I tried going for 4Ghz... the 820 is @ 3.7Ghz @ 1.4v bios, w/o 100mv.

Tried going to 3.8Ghz - went up to 1.6v w/o 100mv, and still unstable








I haven't REALLY played with it, but if it wants that much voltage... I may just give it to it









1.7v (1.6v +100mv) would droop to somewhere around 1.56v, which is the max supposed vcore for the 820 (at least one site said so)

I am going to go try 3.8Ghz w/ 1.7v right now...


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Yeah i had platinums aswell that were no good. I changed them up for golds, which i had a question about.

5-5-5-12 or 4-5-4-15....seems like gold are better anyways?


Golds are rated for 5-5-5-12... 4-5-4-15 is platinums, yes, and I don't really understand mem timings that much but it seems I'd prefer 5-5-5-12 than 4-5-4-15.

3-4-4-10 is doable with DDR2-540 or less. I am @ 265 FSB, so I can't run those timings much longer







if I go higher.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Before you try, I'll add that CPU, mobo and VGA'a are under water. And it is'nt any TT's crap.

I really lave my OCZ's already. 2 hour stable run @1050 Mhz 4-3-3-5-2T










Isn't a tras of 5 (4-3-3-5) impossible? If not, that's insane!


----------



## battlenut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I'd bet $100 it's those RAM chips. If you read back 20 pages or so you'll see I had crazy instability just trying to get stable on stock settings, and then my 2 GB OCZ Platinum Revision II 6400's killed the dimm slots on the board. So I RMA'd the board and returned the RAM for a corsair kit, and everything was golden. Stable on my e6400 at 400 x 8.

If I were you, I'd return my RAM and get something that shows up in a memory configurator. From OCZ I think there's only their their 533 stuff, though the timings are real nice on em.

Finally some other sign of what is happening my video drivers. Getting error message display driver stopped responding and has recovered. checked the NVidia website apparently a lot of people are having the same problem. Drivers are just shutting down and restarting several times in succession and then BSOD.


----------



## Kopi

well at 850mhz im doing 4-4-4-10, havn't tried lower.

Have you guys got your ram (same as mine) to run 1t? I can't


----------



## dpawl31

Mine runs 1T at everything I have run, under stock speeds. (What BIOS, Kopi?)
Being my FSB is @ 265Mhz, I am way under my rams speed.
3-4-4-10 right now. Probably go lower but no need to try right now...

So I just went full bore on 3.8Ghz...
DOH. That's all I can say.

1.7v and temps were OK, but can't pass 1 and half mins on Orthos








It acutally got worse, 1.62 was about 1:38, 1.65v lasted 1:10, 1.7v laster 38 seconds...

Strange.
Can't wait to get a 65nm chip lol.
Dual 3.7Ghz P4's oughtta hold me for now tho.


----------



## Kopi

Err 0407 bios...think i should give 0505 a shot? Has it passed the Dpawl test? I'm running 850mhz...maybe thats why i'm not getting 1t like you are.

More opinions, from those running 800+?


----------



## dpawl31

The dpawl test, lol.
It is possible being OC'd RAM 1T may not make it.
If you loosen your timings a bit I bet you'll get 1T.
Try 5-5-5-15, 1T.
Then if that works, cut tras back to 14 and keep trying lower.
If you can get stock timings @ 50Mhz OC, that'd be great. (1T)

As far as the BIOS, I have had no issues, some people have, but I don't know who or what the problems were?
I just wish my D would go higher... 0.3v higher vcore and I can't even get 100mhz more outta it.


----------



## Kopi

OK i'll try the 0505 tomorrow...maybe 5-5-5-12 1t will work, but is that better than 4-4-4-10 2t?


----------



## dpawl31

Kopi, did you try running unlinked, RAM @ 800Mhz 1T?
Also, why running under stock timings but 2T, when you are overclocked?


----------



## dpawl31

1T vs 2T was posted a while back, but from what I remember 2T helps get higher OC's then you adjust timings and drop to 1T to gain more performance.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Kopi, did you try running unlinked, RAM @ 800Mhz 1T?
Also, why running under stock timings but 2T, when you are overclocked?

I dont want to run a ram devider just to get 1t. Even when at stock speeds, i can't hit 1t. Tried 2.2 volts, still couldn't hit the 1t, so i lowered everything else

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
1T vs 2T was posted a while back, but from what I remember 2T helps get higher OC's then you adjust timings and drop to 1T to gain more performance.

Yeah looser timings always help OC


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

I dont want to run a ram devider just to get 1t. Even when at stock speeds, i can't hit 1t. Tried 2.2 volts, still couldn't hit the 1t, so i lowered everything else
No I meant just to see if 1T was an option with the bios you are running.

Quote:

Yeah looser timings always help OC
I was referring to
5-5-5-12 1T
is better than
4-4-4-10 2T

I guess TRAS affects the real speed of all the other #s, kind of like a multiplier?


----------



## Kopi

Not particularly sure, tomorrow i'll get into that bios and check around, if i can get 1t to run i'll try 4-4-4-10 2t and 5-5-5-12 1t and show some differences


----------



## dpawl31

Shweet, real testing


----------



## dpawl31

Lookee what I found in my closet









REALLY quiet too for this size. I can't even hear it unless it's 3 inches or closer to my ear.

Gonna drop this sucker right on the NB.

Well.. maybe not? I am running 1.5v just for the hell of it, but I think I can drop to stock and be stable. Only @ 265FSB so, don't think I need that high of NB.

What to do with my lil sweet lil cool lil fan! 

EDIT LOL Looked up model #, came up with a vantec, seems they bought it out.
No specs, but they sell for $9 each.. gots to be a good 40mm! Hell, it may be smaller I don't know!


----------



## dpawl31

Look what else I found!









Hmm... SB cooler, OR NB cooler w/ fan and put old NB HS on SB? That would look stupid







I think the new one w/ fan would perform better and look 1337... plus it'll get me away from the freezer 7 and I won't have the ugly bent NB HS fin anymore.

You guys think it'll work better?


----------



## dpawl31

Hey I think we should start a P5N-E MSN list








I talk to Ender all the time, just added Ravin.

As soon as I get confirmation from them to post their address, I'll do it. 
If you have MSN and wish to chat, PM me (Don't post) and I will add you to this list.

*MSN Instant Messenger List*
*dpawl31*- [email protected]
*Ravin*- waiting on OK (he rebooted to go for 3.7Ghz, you can't beat me Ravin!







)
*Ender*- waiting on OK (he's sleeping or something, lazy bum







)


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


You're on. Now that I'm reloaded with software and everything is stable at stock it's time to crank it up. BTW......I've already hit 3.5 stable on the old mobo, although the temps were too high to run 100% safely. Now that the crappy heat tape is off and I've got AS5 on and cured I've seen a 10C drop in op temp.

It will be interesting to see how this board does since you can unlink the RAM timing from the FSB. I'm going for 4.0 Ghz on air!
























And the winner is.....dpawl. Looks like my step 4 rev A0 just can't beat out the step 7 rev B0. 3.61 is all I got.


----------



## dpawl31

Nice try, lol.
I am just mad I can't get to my 4Ghz


----------



## Kopi

I chcked your profile for your MSN and it wasnt there. Is noonish now, expect testing at like 3, if not then like 8. You shoud DEFINATELY not need 1.5v on that NB...woof. No chance. Im doing 425fsb and im at stock NB volts still. I thought about utting my NB hs on the SB and getting a new NB hs, but the NB wont fit due to some nearby capacitors.


----------



## dpawl31

Ill be on msn in about half an hour


----------



## Ravin

Anyone running the updated and re-released 0505 BIOS? I'm hoping that they'll add a little more headroom for the Vcore settings. 1.6 + the +100mv just was not enough to get me above 3.6......maxed out I only get 1.50V across the Vcore.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I chcked your profile for your MSN and it wasnt there. Is noonish now, expect testing at like 3, if not then like 8. You shoud DEFINATELY not need 1.5v on that NB...woof. No chance. Im doing 425fsb and im at stock NB volts still. I thought about utting my NB hs on the SB and getting a new NB hs, but the NB wont fit due to some nearby capacitors.


I added mine...
Yes I think I will drop my NB lol.


----------



## dpawl31

Ravin I may have solved your SATA RAID ISSUE.
I updated my NVidia board driver... saw this during install:

Quote:



NVIDIA Storage Driver Information
----------------------------------
(WARNING - select CANCEL now if you do NOT want to install NVIDIA storage drivers)
The NVIDIA Storage driver consists of 3 components:
1) NVIDIA storage driver optimized for nForce SATA controller that will replace the driver that came with Windows.
2) A RAID controller driver which is required if SATA RAID is ENABLED in BIOS
3) RAID Manager application software
NOTE, to install OS onto SATA disks when RAID is enabled in the BIOS, you MUST do the following:
- use the "-x" option with the package .exe to extract storage driver files
- follow instructions for Windows F6 install in "IDE\\<os version>\\driver\\READMEF6.txt"


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Ravin I may have solved your SATA RAID ISSUE.
I updated my NVidia board driver... saw this during install:

Excellent! I actually found a workaround of my own. I just unplugged the IDE HDDS from the MoBo and found that I started getting 3Gb/sec as I should. Perhaps the Sandra test transferrs data from the SATA ports to the IDE ports, thus limiting the bandwidth of the RAID array. Thought I was going to have to upgrade those to SATA, but if your fix works all the better!

Rep+


----------



## Kopi

Alright heres the deal, i couldn't boot anything 1t, remind you that im running 0407.

5-5-5-12-2t









4-4-4-10-2t









4-4-4-8-2t









Wuddup with the only 2T?


----------



## The Pook

As I said in yer other thread:

I'm starting to think the 650i doesn't like 1T no matter yer RAM.
I can get insane latencies and I can't hit 1T no matter what speed or timings I run (well, 667Mhz works, at CL4, but thats it).

Your RAM should have no problems with 1T.

BTW -
Running 4-3-3-6 DDR2-922 here.


----------



## Kopi

Anyone else here running 1t? What bios revision are you on? How are the issues with the 0505 comming


----------



## DonNiger

[email protected] mhz - its the highest 1T, I could get



The mem bundwich is 10% higher than running mem Cl4 @ 1050 mhz 2T


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


As I said in yer other thread:

I'm starting to think the 650i doesn't like 1T no matter yer RAM.
I can get insane latencies and I can't hit 1T no matter what speed or timings I run (well, 667Mhz works, at CL4, but thats it).

Your RAM should have no problems with 1T.

BTW -
Running 4-3-3-6 DDR2-922 here.











I have Kopis ram, cept 1GB... and I can run 1T at any speed I try. Have not overclocked, but why when my FSB is way under rated speed lol...

When I get my new e6320, I'll letcha know how 1T goes


----------



## dpawl31

Heck yeah!
Everyone thank Transonic for making this thread OFFICIAL!









EDIT- Holy heck he made it a sticky!


----------



## JCushing

oh BTW i went back to 401....

now i can change my cpu multiplier again. im going to go back over my overclocking results again later.

oh btw i can OC my ram up to 930mhz but i couldnt get 1t stable at stock speeds for the life of me. i did manage to get 1 superpi run out without errors . 930mhz with higher latencies worked better.


----------



## Kopi

Thanks for stickying! I was just searching in the regular spots, couldn't find it, i was confused...kinda sad. Then i saw it i was like ZOMG


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Thanks for stickying! I was just searching in the regular spots, couldn't find it, i was confused...kinda sad. Then i saw it i was like ZOMG


ROLF....me too. Popular board. I think that nearly all my issues are ironed out. Big thanks to dpawl









So here I am....found the absolute max this 820 will do (3.61GHz) and my RAID0 is finally running near 3Gb/sec. I still dunno what's up with the PCI RAID controller and I've given up on it. Heck, the only reason I got it was to pull the data off my stripe when the dual PIII machine died.

So today's task is to find my RAM max OC. I was previously able to run it at DDR667 speeds on the old board without loosening the timings by just upping the volts. I'll keep you posted, especially on the 1T/2T debate.


----------



## Ravin

Ok....Stock clocks with 1T the only change at the moment........stability looks good on the couple of minutes that Sandra has been running.


----------



## Asce

All i got to say is, this is one hell of a thread as i learnt quite a bit on how to overclock. 
I have the P5N-E, should be getting an E6400 in the next couple of weeks and then save £250 for 1Gb ram and a 8800GTS 320Mb. Just need to decide on HSF for my CPU and NB


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Alright heres the deal, i couldn't boot anything 1t, remind you that im running 0407.

5-5-5-12-2t









4-4-4-10-2t









4-4-4-8-2t









Wuddup with the only 2T?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


As I said in yer other thread:

I'm starting to think the 650i doesn't like 1T no matter yer RAM.
I can get insane latencies and I can't hit 1T no matter what speed or timings I run (well, 667Mhz works, at CL4, but thats it).

Your RAM should have no problems with 1T.

BTW -
Running 4-3-3-6 DDR2-922 here.










I 'was' running 1T just fine @ 4-4-4-12 and 5-5-5-15. I'm at 2T now, since I went 3-3-3-10, only because I simply never tried 1T again with such tight timings (If it ain't broke, don't fix it, lol). I'm running 0307, I think. Maybe it's your RAM? Have you tried running memtest86, make sure your memories up to par.

cg


----------



## Kopi

Yeha my ram is stable through 3, yes 3 straight memtests. I left it while i went to hockey









I'm thinking of heading over to 0505 bios, as long as its possible to flash to a previous bios.


----------



## Kopi

This C2D chip is amazing, i must have got the cream of the crop. Volts are 1.275, idle is 33-34c (still stock cooling) and 3.2ghz. WOOT. Sweeeet job Kopi's chip!


----------



## TriBeCa

Ahhhh, I've been gone too long...where to start?

My RAM is on stock timings except at 1T, no problem at all.

Asce, that's my system! Let me know if you run into trouble, and umm...don't buy OCZ Platinum RAM









Also, for those of you who can't get stable at clocks you're trying to reach (e.g. dpawl) but have low-ish NB voltage...I had to go to 1.75 NB voltage to get stable at 400 MHz FSB. Don't ask me why, but it worked...orthos went from erroring in under 10 minutes to taking 3-5.5 hours (which I fixed with more vcore).


----------



## JCushing

i wouldnt bother with 505, its a bandaid bios for vista users it seems. does more negative than positive for the rest of us.


----------



## End3R

Is there anyway to change my post image? This one is pretty boring, lol.


----------



## TriBeCa

use the asus windows bios utility, whatever it's called. there's an option in there put in a new image. just make sure you convert it to 16 colors first ;p


----------



## Mr Pink57

Got this mobo in the mail as the P5N32-E SLi did not work out for me. Was curious if anyone is using a large cooler like mine with a HR-05 SLi, it looks like there is enough clearance for me to do this no problem but reassurance is nice.

pink


----------



## dpawl31

Someone here had one on both nb and sb... looked fine. Welcome to the thread pink!


----------



## Kopi

I've been advised against the 0505 by jcushing. I know that the one who knows most, if not all about this board is Dpawl lol. For now, i dont see anything wrong. I found out my OC of 3.2 wasn't stable at 1.3v...so unless i try higher (like stock







) I put it back to 3ghz for now. I'm ordering my LGA bracket tomorrow, so XP-90 should be round soon!


----------



## USlatin

It seems 650i and 680i boards are the same when it comes to their components wich are involved in the overclocking of a CPU and RAM, correct?

If so can I follow the instructions and suggestions here for 650i users as if I had a 650i when overclocking my 680?


----------



## JCushing

nothing bad happened with 505, my system ran fine with it i tested before and after and i would still say its no more or less stable and my OC results were somewhat poorer with it and i was no longer able to change the cpu multiplier on my chip. 505 is no longer avalible on asus's website and people on the asus support forums are also complaining about 505. im not sure what your getting at in your post kopi, but if your doubting me for saying you shouldnt use 505 my all means use it if you want but it seemed to do more harm then good for me.


----------



## rsfkevski

A friend of mine had the same issues with the 0505 Bios, so I reverted back to 0401 for him.


----------



## Ravin

Ok.... Stock timings with 1T are officially stable on my rig.

RAID users check this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...-e-raid-4.html


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


nothing bad happened with 505, my system ran fine with it i tested before and after and i would still say its no more or less stable and my OC results were somewhat poorer with it and i was no longer able to change the cpu multiplier on my chip. 505 is no longer avalible on asus's website and people on the asus support forums are also complaining about 505. im not sure what your getting at in your post kopi, but if your doubting me for saying you shouldnt use 505 my all means use it if you want but it seemed to do more harm then good for me.


no no you misread, i was just hoping for an second opinion of Dpawl since he monitors this thread thoroughly.

I'll stick with what i have


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ahhhh, I've been gone too long...where to start?

My RAM is on stock timings except at 1T, no problem at all.

Asce, that's my system! Let me know if you run into trouble, and umm...don't buy OCZ Platinum RAM









Also, for those of you who can't get stable at clocks you're trying to reach (e.g. dpawl) but have low-ish NB voltage...I had to go to 1.75 NB voltage to get stable at 400 MHz FSB. Don't ask me why, but it worked...orthos went from erroring in under 10 minutes to taking 3-5.5 hours (which I fixed with more vcore).


I tried highest vcore, NB, and got nowhere. Keep in mind, when referring to me and my NB voltage- I am only @ 265FSB due to my 14 multi. So I should be fine @ stock. I tried highest though, and nothing at all


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


i wouldnt bother with 505, its a bandaid bios for vista users it seems. does more negative than positive for the rest of us.



I have had no issues with it, but maybe if I revert to 04 I could get a higher OC?
We'll see.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
use the asus windows bios utility, whatever it's called. there's an option in there put in a new image. just make sure you convert it to 16 colors first ;p

It's called Asus Update. Works great.
And yes, convert it to 16 colors, because otherwise it will convert it for you, and it does NOT do such a pretty job


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I've been advised against the 0505 by jcushing. I know that the one who knows most, if not all about this board is Dpawl lol. For now, i dont see anything wrong. I found out my OC of 3.2 wasn't stable at 1.3v...so unless i try higher (like stock







) I put it back to 3ghz for now. I'm ordering my LGA bracket tomorrow, so XP-90 should be round soon!


Yeah, seems too much hype about the 0505... forget it








I have had no issues, but, whatever








I am going to try 04 series bios and try my 4Ghz again. GOD I WANT IT SO BAD.










Edit- I definately am not sure about me being the "know it all P5N-E guy".
Don't confuse "lots of input" with "lots of knowledge"


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
It seems 650i and 680i boards are the same when it comes to their components wich are involved in the overclocking of a CPU and RAM, correct?

If so can I follow the instructions and suggestions here for 650i users as if I had a 650i when overclocking my 680?

Do you have the P5N32-E SLI?
If so, yeah everything should be very similar. If anything is different, most likely it will just be you have some EXTRA options, for example I believe that has a southbridge voltage adjustment, and things like that.

Otherwise, yes, you can probably follow most of this thread for that board.
Just don't blame me for burning out your chip, lol


----------



## Kopi

haha we all have plenty to learn, but i know you've read most if not all of the posts in this thread, you've seen most if not all the problems/fixes brought up so far


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

but i know you've read most if not all of the posts in this thread
Haven't skipped a one in 890 posts, 891 now!









Quote:

you've seen most if not all the problems/fixes brought up so far
I can understand that too, lol. Yeah, I been around.


----------



## Kopi

/point proved


----------



## dpawl31

Is it sick to know that I check OCN on my cell phone on my way into work, at work, and on the way home?


----------



## Kopi

woah lol

addict!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 







Is it sick to know that I check OCN on my cell phone on my way into work, at work, and on the way home?

I would too if I could work the cell and ride the motorcycle at the same time


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I would too if I could work the cell and ride the motorcycle at the same time










Lol C'mon practice makes perfect right?







I use my cell while driving, but it doesn't interfere much anymore since i don't look at the keypad while i text, and i drive on a highway that i see 5 cars tops on the way to school each day. (go rural Canada go!)


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I would too if I could work the cell and ride the motorcycle at the same time










My bike is getting a new headlight and fender, then I won't be able to anymore.
Eh, acutally, I will try









Quote:



(go rural Canada go!)


----------



## Thrice

Running max voltages on Vcore and NB with the +100 mv on, I can get to 425 or 1700 FBS = 3.875 ghz on my e6600.

3dmark06 score here

Specs here

It will run 3dmark06. But it fails orthos after a min or so. My temps seems ok. Anything I can do now to make it orthos stable?


----------



## dpawl31

Yowzahs. That's awesome. 
What bios?
I am having same issues. But my FSB is no where near that high, but I am almost at your core speed









13.5 second pi time. I just shat my pants


----------



## rsfkevski

Might wanna go clean up there dpawl. I've tried to get that high on my buddies E6600 and can't seem to boot into Windows. I think the highest we've had it up to was like 3.3!


----------



## USlatin

So we don't have the same BIOS then... ouch! Or are you saying that your BIOS will be the same as mine all the way down to the 0's and 1's with the exception that there might be a few extra lines of code added? If so then I won't cancel the order since I would in fact be able to use this thread practically word by word! I may have to call them and ask the same to ASUS tech support...

Does anyone have a RAID0 with perpendiculars? if so what's your average speed?


----------



## Thrice

I'm running 401.

My FBS can go higher, it will boot up to like 450 but it won't run 3dmark.

Like i said, this isn't orthos stable after a cpl minutes, but it will run 3dmark. Wierd.


----------



## rsfkevski

Damn man, maybe it's the G.skill ram holding him back then.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thrice*


I'm running 401.

My FBS can go higher, it will boot up to like 450 but it won't run 3dmark.

Like i said, this isn't orthos stable after a cpl minutes, but it will run 3dmark. Wierd.


what multiplier are you using?

I need to learn a whole chunk more about OC'ing... my DS3 had a fixed x7 multi and a lowest 1:1 ratio... what are the minimum and max settings for the multi and ratios?
The whole T1 and T2 thing is a complete unknown to me


----------



## rsfkevski

The P5N-E SLI is awesome when it comes to OC options. http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=1 and read all about it.


----------



## Criswell

So I could get this board for my E6300 and overclock to 3GHz without touching DDR2-533 RAM since it's unlinked? If so then I'm about to buy it


----------



## rsfkevski

You got that right Criswell! I've seen somewhere, can't remember where right now, that someone obtained a 100% overclock on an E6300, taking it to 3.6GHz!!


----------



## Criswell

Niiiice, anyone care to show or link me to any manuals or images to show these settings I need to use?

And is the unlinked for any 650i mobo or just the P5N-E?


----------



## rsfkevski

I think it's just an option in the Bios on the ASUS boards. As far as settings for Bios, you'll have to read the entire thread to get your best answer, although everyone's settings seem to differ depending on what hardware you have, ie: RAM, CPU, PSU, etc. Just have to start an OCing session and see how far you can go!


----------



## Criswell

Alright, off to newegg!


----------



## rsfkevski

Remember to update Bios immediately after installing Windows and, if you want, install ASUS Software. I didn't have any problems with the Flash Utility Software at all. Even saved old 0401 Bios after updating to 0505(don't use) and was able to revert back to 0401 without any mishaps.


----------



## dpawl31

You can run full linked, which is dumb!
Unlinked, or synced.

Unlinked is full manual control, sync allows you to set dividers (but they are all CPU dividers, ie 4:3 and 5:4 etc.

Sync @ 1:1 is best








Because you can go full unlinked, you can set crazy wierd dividers like 15:16, which is awesome because you are so close to 1:1 its nice and stable, but you get a slight performance boost from faster RAM.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Remember to update Bios immediately after installing Windows and, if you want, install ASUS Software. I didn't have any problems with the Flash Utility Software at all. Even saved old 0401 Bios after updating to 0505(don't use) and was able to revert back to 0401 without any mishaps.



Criswell try ZipZoomFly.com
I got mine there w/ free shipping for like $2 more than the egg, saved like $5.

rsk, I have used the windows flash too and its great.
Just realized there is an options setting for downgrading bios, LOVE that, no more cmos clearing just to downgrade the bios









On the downside, I forgot to reenter my OC profile so I am back to 2.8Ghz right now, quick reboot and Ill be back at my lovely 3.7Ghz!


----------



## dpawl31

It's funny since we got sticky'd we are right in view, lots more people hangin around hehe


----------



## rsfkevski

Yeah, I LOVE this sticky Dpawl. I watch it like a hawk for any information for my friend. Makes me look like I'm always researching, always inquiring, on a PC that's not even mine. I did research all of the parts for his build and helped him build it. I do know that when it comes time to put my old s478 to rest, this will be the board I build around!!!!!!!


----------



## USlatin

Hey, this thread is a sticky for a reason! We needed something like it! So I am glad you started it and got help from the other guys to keep it alive and going strong!

I am confused as I could be, and frankly quite scared. But I guess it will all make more sense once I see the screens...
Just to be safe (though I will probably get it Monday anyway) what is the most updated safe BIOS we should download? I could get the floppy ready right now and get started


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsfkevski* 
The P5N-E SLI is awesome when it comes to OC options. http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=1 and read all about it.

Yea, this seems to be a good one if not the best article to read right... On the second page finally, haven't been able to relax and read up too much. Next I'll have to pick back up on page five or so where I left off when trying to comb through this whole thread...

Just wish I had the board allready so I could see the screens and all...


----------



## USlatin

http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=4

At the top of the page: "_While not directly competitive with the Intel P965 in our Nero Recode Test, we did find the board to perform consistently close in our full application benchmark test suite that includes audio/video benchmarks not listed in our preview. However, our 975X and P965 chipsets still offer the best overall performance._"

Does it mean that 965P chipsets like the one on the DS3 would be better for Video editing?


----------



## JCushing

the p65 chipsets have alot more features, more sata controllers, more pci slots more usefull / versitile for the average user.

the p5n seems to be a more versitile overclocker (maybe not better in the max FSB sense) and a budget sli gaming board.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
So we don't have the same BIOS then... ouch! Or are you saying that your BIOS will be the same as mine all the way down to the 0's and 1's with the exception that there might be a few extra lines of code added? If so then I won't cancel the order since I would in fact be able to use this thread practically word by word! I may have to call them and ask the same to ASUS tech support...

Does anyone have a RAID0 with perpendiculars? if so what's your average speed?

I'm running RAID0, and at the moment it varies. I started out at ATA100 speeds (107Mb/sec), but after some serious driver updates am running around 2.8 Gb/sec (peak) and 2.0Gb (sustained). Something still ain't quite right.

Check this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...-e-raid-4.html

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I definately am not sure about me being the "know it all P5N-E guy".
Don't confuse "lots of input" with "lots of knowledge"









Knowing your strengths and weaknesses coupled with modesty. A mark of the greats


----------



## Criswell

As of Friday March 30 2007:

ASUS P5N-E 650i:

Zipzoomfly 134.99 + 0= 134.99

Tigerdirect 139.99 + 12.42= 152.41

Newegg 124.99 + 6.41= 131.40

Buy.com 134.99 + 0= 134.99

Frys 148.00 + 7.73= 155.73

Prices in USD.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Criswell*


As of Friday March 30 2007:

ASUS P5N-E 650i:

Zipzoomfly 134.99 + 0= 134.99

Tigerdirect 139.99 + 12.42= 152.41

Newegg 124.99 + 6.41= 131.40

Buy.com 134.99 + 0= 134.99

Frys 148.00 + 7.73= 155.73

Prices in USD.


If you can get to a Fry's you can pick one up in house for 129.99 (new) or 119.99 (repacked)


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
what multiplier are you using?

I need to learn a whole chunk more about OC'ing... my DS3 had a fixed x7 multi and a lowest 1:1 ratio... what are the minimum and max settings for the multi and ratios?
The whole T1 and T2 thing is a complete unknown to me

Multi = 6:60 (min:max)
Ratio = whatever you can get







I was able to get 15/16 but not 31/32









I'm not 100% clear on the T1/T2 thing myself, but I believe it has to do with how many commands the ram is sending per clock. T1 reportedly gives a large performance boost.

When I have time again I'll try taking my TRAS down some...and maybe see if I can get the CAS down to 3. This corsair kit cost a fortune and has huge heat dissipators right under my extra case fan, so it should be ok heat-wise. Sometime this summer I'm sure I'll get really ambitious and drill holes in the plexiglass side of the case for that fan, and then try pusing my FSB up to somewhere between 420-450


----------



## Ravin

Alright, I've just about had it with the low/variable bandwidth from my RAID array so I'm going to do a complete re-install, right down to the partitions. Hope this works.


----------



## Digikid

WOW! This thread is still going?

PC Updated....and still LOVING my mobo like crazy. However I cannot seem to get to 3.5 with my specs.

Any ideas?


----------



## The Pook

Seems like Intel locked some E4300 chips to limit what can be done with 'em.
(Tuchan and a few others were having problems with their sets under phase past 3.5/3.6)


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Alright, I've just about had it with the low/variable bandwidth from my RAID array so I'm going to do a complete re-install, right down to the partitions. Hope this works.

Explain, please. What are your problems/numbers you are unhappy with?
I will be installing XP (using media center XP now) onto a RAID0 comprised of my slower two HDDs for my OS drive and partitioning it with a small chunk for the OS and programs and the rest for storage/backup of important footage.
I have read that I would have to boot up with a floppy if I want a RAID C: and that then when I boot up I should install drivers in a very particular order.

Could you tell me how you go about doing this yourself so I can make sure and follow your steps. I never knew it would be such a weird process and thought it would be much more simple. I wanted to just ghost over you know... But it doesn't hurt to start fresh. Just a lot of work


----------



## Killroy

I need help with the p5ne-sli motherboard. What is the best DDR2 PC6400 for thus motherboard without getting boot up post beep or reboots and BSOD?

I got the motherboard running OCZ Platinum 2 GB DDR2 PC6400. It work for 2 weeks and it gave me a post beep without booting up the system. I remove 1 memory from the motherboard and it boot up. The timing is 4-5-4-15.

What I need to do to make it work with the OCZ memory?

Thanks


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Explain, please. What are your problems/numbers you are unhappy with?
I will be installing XP (using media center XP now) onto a RAID0 comprised of my slower two HDDs for my OS drive and partitioning it with a small chunk for the OS and programs and the rest for storage/backup of important footage. 
I have read that I would have to boot up with a floppy if I want a RAID C: and that then when I boot up I should install drivers in a very particular order.

Could you tell me how you go about doing this yourself so I can make sure and follow your steps. I never knew it would be such a weird process and thought it would be much more simple. I wanted to just ghost over you know... But it doesn't hurt to start fresh. Just a lot of work











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


ASUS response:

Depending on if you're loading the operating system to a drive attached to this controller or not, will determine how the drivers should be installed. If you're loading the operating system to the raid device, then you'll need to create a driver diskette so that windows can see the drive. Starting out with bare minimums, videocard, memory, processor, 1 hard drive, 1cdrom and floppy, you must boot up and format and do a clean installation of windows. Once that is complete, then insert the support cd that came with the motherboard, and install all the drivers in the order in which they're listed. Videocard drivers last. Once doing this, you shouldn't have any conflicts in device manager, except maybe universal serial bus controller. Which that is installed with a windows update. Please let us know if you! have any further problems. Thank you!

Allan T
7100 Intermodal Dr
Louisville, Ky 40258
Asus Support Team.

Uhhhh....If you load XP onto one HDD and then create the RAID array won't that wipe out your install?










ok....here goes. I've been seeing an average read/write of 107Mb/sec which is ATA 100 speed. It should be nearer 300Mb/sec. So I am following ASUS instructions as above, then ghosting to a 3rd drive, THEN creating the RAID0 (wiping out the initial install) and restoring from the 3rd drive to the Raid array. I'll let you know how it goes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Ok.... Stock timings with 1T are officially stable on my rig.

RAID users check this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...-e-raid-4.html


----------



## USlatin

Ravin, you keep giving me the link to that thread when I had allready posted on it before you gave it to me the first time. LOL
Trust me I read the whole thing, twice... lol

Anyway, thanks for the explanation in cleared terms... I won't be ghosting unless I can install XP OVER media center to get rid of it... I don't think that can be done, so I might have to just start from scratch. Right?


----------



## The Pook

So wait.
Is RAID 0 **** on this board?
I'm wanting to go the RAID 0 route soon.
(When my Vista copy sells since I don't want it. Check out the for sale thread. *cough*)

If it's **** I don't want to do it.


----------



## dpawl31

I doubt they are saying it's bad.
Keep in mind - Ravin is running, I believe two raid setups, and some non raid drives. I think he has an entire CM Stacker filled with hard drives. (HAHA JK)

Not too many people running raid with this board yet, I am sure it's just being tricky. RAID iteself is tricky, I have yet to try it because it kind of scares me









Striping, ghosting, boogity woogity-ing, perpendicularing, crazy raiding?!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
Ravin, you keep giving me the link to that thread when I had allready posted on it before you gave it to me the first time. LOL
Trust me I read the whole thing, twice... lol

Anyway, thanks for the explanation in cleared terms... I won't be ghosting unless I can install XP OVER media center to get rid of it... I don't think that can be done, so I might have to just start from scratch. Right?

You'll definitely have to start from scratch, using one SATA drive according to ASUS. After installing the OS <MAKE SURE TO INSTALL THE RAID DRIVERS USING F6 DURING INSTALL> and then the other drivers in this order: Chipset, Audio, USB (if using earlier than XP), then video (followed by norton ghost). Once that is done, you will need 2 additional SATA drives to create the RAID array. Finally, once the RAID is created, you will need to ghost the installation of your OS to the RAID array. This should be it. I'm still working on getting Norton ghost activated....the freakin product key they gave me is invalid









Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
So wait.
Is RAID 0 **** on this board?
I'm wanting to go the RAID 0 route soon.
(When my Vista copy sells since I don't want it. Check out the for sale thread. *cough*)

If it's **** I don't want to do it.









Yup RAID 0, 1, 0+1, 5, and 10 are supported onboard (SATA only)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I doubt they are saying it's bad.
Keep in mind - Ravin is running, I believe two raid setups, and some non raid drives. I think he has an entire CM Stacker filled with hard drives. (HAHA JK)

Not too many people running raid with this board yet, I am sure it's just being tricky. RAID iteself is tricky, I have yet to try it because it kind of scares me









Striping, ghosting, boogity woogity-ing, perpendicularing, crazy raiding?!









I was running 3 RAID 0 arrays- one on SATA, 2 on a PCI IDE controller. My PCI card doesn't work on this board for some reason so I scapped the 2 IDE RAID arrays and moved the 2 larger drives to the onboard IDE port (now non-raid) for backup and file service.

I've been running RAID 0 forever- at least 12 years and NEVER had ANY problems until now. Although all of my previous controllers were HighPoint 374. I guess that nVidia just hasn't quite got the bugs out yet. I've actually never thought that setting up RAID was any harder than plugging in an extra HDD and drivers.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

Yup RAID 0, 1, 0+1, 5, and 10 are supported onboard (SATA only)

Hah, I think his ***** meant a dirty word. Not is it supported. LoL


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hah, I think his ***** meant a dirty word. Not is it supported. LoL









I think he was asking and cursing at the same time


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

RAVIN- Location: *Beaver*ton OR


----------



## USlatin

Yea, RAID isn't hard... it isn't supposed to be anyway, the only reason why it can be is because manufacturers don't always employ people with good writing skills and the manuals and/or BIOS are all in jeberish...

Wait, so I have to start the computer with a single drive first? Why cant we get into the RAID BIOS and create a RAID0 from the get-go... anyways, this shouldn't be a problem, just an extra (long) step...

I'll have to copy all the stuff from my 4th and 5th drives onto my C: and then use one of them to start the computer, then set up my 2nd and 3rd in a RAID0 in the ASUS RAID BIOS, then use an XP boot disk to boot from them, right? Then install the important system drivers in the order they spelled out for us, and THEN ghost over.... right?
I actually won't ghost over cause if I did I would ghost Media Center over, so I will just continue installing all the software one at a time... agghhh!!!









Then again, that's the cost of doing business, right?
There is a very nice sound card from M-Audio with Sinche inputs that records @ 96khz, but M-Audio is one of the many who don't support Media Center...

So did I get it right Ravin?


----------



## DonNiger

You do not have to start your PC with a single drive. Just connect everything you need, start the "engine", enter bios and enable raid. And choose the drives you would like to have in your RAID. Save bios, restart and go to the raid utility pressing F10 during post check. Choose stripping, mirroing etc.
insert win install disk and during drivers installation press F6 and if it tell you to insert flopi disk with raid drivers, just do it. Ofcorse, you have to make that raid disk pefore you start installation. You can use software given by Asus, or download it from asus web page. There is nothing complex with that MB to have RAID working.
I made my RAID couple of monthes ago therefore it might happen, I made a mistake somewhere in here but I do not think so.

Also ,even if you have SATA II drive, you WILL NEVER see a 300 mb/s speeds. Forgwet it. Even two SATAII (10000 rpm) in RAID0 will hardly give you that (real)speed.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

There is nothing complex with that MB to have RAID working.
Shweet







I can't wait to get two 250Gigs


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Shweet







I can't wait to get two 250Gigs










Jep, its easy like takeing candy from a child


----------



## USlatin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Jep, its easy like takeing candy from a child









You steal candy from those little boogers too?! Nice, I thought I was alone...

That is what I thought I would have to do... Exactly that... Start the computer, set the SYS BIOS to allow RAID, go into the RAID BIOS and make the RAID, go back in the SYS BIOS and choose it as the first boot drive... then start as you would normally with a single drive...

Once this eighth grader beat me up real bad, so I would actually say it is easier!









I do like the idea of installing the drivers in whatever order ASUS recommends though! And since I might have to start a new C: from scratch I will defenitely that that into account. *Unless anyone here knows if you can "repair" XP Media Center over to plain XP?*


----------



## The Pook

I know it can do RAID 0.
I meant if it was any good on this board since the posts above mine are complaining about slow RAID.

They unlucky, or is there really something wrong?


----------



## USlatin

I don't know but I was getting very bad average read speed with the single on-board RAID on my DS3 also...


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


I don't know but I was getting very bad average read speed with the single on-board RAID on my DS3 also...


What was the readings?

I saw a XP media center converter to XP somewhere. But I do not think it was leagal.


----------



## Kopi

I just took a look at the p6n, its a very attractive board, with the multicoloured slots all pretty. Im still saying p5n ftw because its asus though, this one looks stealthy and its an awesome board. I'm so glad i sided with this over the DS3. It goes perfect with the black case and black PSU and everything...AH I LOVE IT. I just bought a soundcard, soundblaster audigy se, nothing special but i got it for free+shipping. Ordered my LGA775 bracket, Cold Cathodes (2x12" blue) and a sick fan seen here -->










Should spice up my case a little bit with the white LED


----------



## Skjold

Is there anyone is this thread who have got a bad mb?

I just cant get mine to boot. I just get black screen (no signal) and five short beeps. And there is nothing i can do about it.
Im thinking of RMA'ing it, since everything ive tried has failed.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Skjold*


Is there anyone is this thread who have got a bad mb?

I just cant get mine to boot. I just get black screen (no signal) and five short beeps. And there is nothing i can do about it.
Im thinking of RMA'ing it, since everything ive tried has failed.


Foulty RAM should give you a long beep. If it beeps, it means it works.








First try to change your VGA, use an oldschool PCI. If still have a problem, take your ram out and try in differsent slots - one by one.
I have heard about just 1 non working MB but that one had just an empty Bios battary.


----------



## The Pook

RAM too high, not working, etc = Long beep that goes for about a minute, then either your computer will shut off (old BIOS') or keep beeping (new ones.)
5 short beeps = Can't remember if it was a NB/SB or a CPU problem...One of them.


----------



## Skjold

Well ive tested different ram, psu's and gfx. And still get the 5 beeps and the nothing happens. Fans spin and everything lights up, and thats that.


----------



## USlatin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


What was the readings?

I saw a XP media center converter to XP somewhere. But I do not think it was leagal.










I had one set doing 110MB/s and an other doind 85MB/s when these should give me more like 120/130... individually they give 70-85MB/s


----------



## dpawl31

KOPI you bum, you are on here, not responding to my PM, and leave me hangin' on MSN









Anyway... who's told me time and time again stock NB voltage is all I need?
KOPI!
Who said 265FSB doesn't require more than stock NB voltage?
KOPI!
Who did I just prove wrong by testing AUTO, 1.2 and 1.38 NB voltage?
KOPI!
REP- for KOPI! lol.
jk, but I did test everything and it seems I need 1.38v for NB.
Both AUTO and 1.2 fail to post.
I was able to drop it from 1.57 to 1.38 tho







That makes me happy.

Oh, and I got my RAM timings down, as well as 1T, for all you 2T'ers... hah!
3-4-4-10 1T @ 265Mhz (DDR2-530)

Check my system specs page for the rest, but I dropped my PI time down to 36 something. Not bad for a P4 chip...


----------



## The Pook

Kopi told you that?

.
..
...
....










Come on Kops, I taught you better than that.


----------



## dpawl31

Hey Pook, you see Kopi's new sig? Haha


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *USlatin* 
I had one set doing 110MB/s and an other doind 85MB/s when these should give me more like 120/130... individually they give 70-85MB/s


I have some test results, made with the same MB. Used Maxline III (fast Sata II) versus WD Raptor (Sata1) single and RAID0 mode. The third test is done only between Maxtor and Raid0


----------



## USlatin

yea, these are not as fast as the raptors but in RAID0 you get very nice averages... so long as your controller doesn't suck... and your Raptor average of 200MB/s sounds like it is almost as high as they'll benchmark, right?


----------



## dpawl31

Me = RAID n00b.
Me = Staying out of this one


----------



## DonNiger

That 200 Mb/s is only continious read, like reading movies or other big files. But you to not have to look at that reading. I do not think, that you are keeping movies in your RAID0. More you have to be worry about are seek time and linear read, those are important for op systems.

E: Those test were made in DOS before installing MB drivers.


----------



## USlatin

Linear read? What is that one?
I know I need to worry about seek time cause I'll be jumping around from clip to clip constantly every other second. So fan what I have been looking at is my average read...


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *USlatin*


Linear read? What is that one?
I know I need to worry about seek time cause I'll be jumping around from clip to clip constantly every other second. So fan what I have been looking at is my average read...


Just ran some tests like HDTune or Everest and link the results here.


----------



## Kopi

You cant run stock NB volts lmao...i ran stock NB volts at 2.4ghz, (342fsb)!

Thats weird that you can't use stock volts for such a low number, i mean, thats what core 2 duo's come at STOCK, 266fsb, and you shouldn't have to bump voltage to run that....at 428fsb im running 1.4v, stock NB is what 1.3 something?


----------



## Nevaziah

P5Ne-sli 650i PWNS Asus Striker 680i & P5N32-sli 680i

Asus: w3'v3 just [email protected] 0ut wiht teh n3w ch1ps3t htat is 0ober ov3erclocker, wit teh mad [email protected] 4 bios [email protected] for noob [email protected]!!









techspot: ..***?? w3'r3 g3tt1ng pwn3d by noobs on P5N3-sl1!!!

Asus: teh n3w ch1ps3t [email protected] [email protected]@@@D sata portzz, uber pc1-x slots









techspot: >_>

Asus:









Asus: :









Asus:









Asus:









Asus:









Asus:


----------



## Kopi

Woah, 650i really is a great chipset

And i was thiiiiiiiiiiiis close *motions with fingers* to getting a DS3


----------



## pheoxs

Hey i got a question, the BIOS vers. that came with my p5n-e sli is 0401 and now theres a 0505 version out, would updating my BIOS help anything out really? Also, it says i have to use a floppy disk to update it ... yeah i don't have a floppy drive so, is there another way to flash it or? Thanks


----------



## TriBeCa

i wouldn't touch the 0505 if i were you. i haven't heard anyone say it's helped with anything, and lots of people have run into problems that *might* have been because of it. In fact, I don't know of anyone who's using it.

And yeah, you can use the ASUS Update utility on the MB driver CD, or (I think) you can use a thumb drive.

and on another note, damn! i'm glad I bought this board. with those benchmarks i'll take the p5n-e for my money, thanks ;p


----------



## pheoxs

hey tribeca, whats the voltage of your 6400 running at 3.2? I can boot my system but it shuts off on full load, i need more voltage but i don't really know how much, i tried 1.35V but don't really want to go any higher, i'd love to get that final little bit so i can run 400fsb


----------



## Ravin

Ok, I've been gone a few trying to resolve the slow benchies I've seen on the RAID 0 on my board. First off....Tried the install to one disk, then creating the RAID and ghost thing. Big waste of time.

Second....Did the install of drivers from the CD that came with the board- did not see a change......

3rd.... installed the current driver set from nVidia's website on a fresh XP install, and WOW what a difference! I went from seeing 89mb/sec average and 107mb/sec burst speed to seeing 298mb/sec burst 110mb/sec average. Much, much better and what I'd expect to see on a RAID 0 setup.

Finally- I was running Sandra to get a full system report and got a crash (at stock speeds no less). XP says it's a video driver problem, and the Sandra report corrolates- the data file ends abruptly during the video test. To top it off, when my rig rebooted, my secondary monitor was super dark. At first I thought it was the output from the card, but I swapped monitors and found that it was the monitor that fried









Real bummer.....I need the XL desktop to be an effective multitasker. Good thing I got a bonus check coming this month, Just wish I could have upgraded the RAM instead


----------



## dpawl31

As far as the bios, the only stuff I have heard bad about 0505 was "hearsay" on this thread, about other people having trouble.

I have been running 0505 since the day it was released, and no issues...

But I also so no difference between 0401 and 0505, so just stay stock.

Ravin- THAT SUCKS







Sorry man. Glad my rig isn't as complicated, I don't need to deal with that mess









Nevaziah - #1 I am placing the review in the first post of this thread.








#2 Wow, did I pick one helluva board to "try out" and start a thread about...
#3 REP+ for that link








#4 Did I mention I love my P5N-E?
















**EDIT** Not only added it to the first page of this thread, but posted in the NEWS SECTION with credit where it is due!


----------



## Kopi

You should add some of these quotes to the first post...like real live quotes of peple who love their board...like

I completely love this thing...i'd pay 200 for it, overclocks liike mad, no problems at all. Take it over a DS3 in a heartbeat!


----------



## dpawl31

LOLz buyer beware- of the Kopisaurus. lol. I don't think personal quotes would cut it for someone looking to buy it, the fact that this board is sticky'd makes it a







for anyone as it is. But I should add some more quotes from the reviews.

Anyone want to tackle a COMPLETE in depth comparison, especially against 680i boards and SLI 8800s? If so, REP+ would be in order and I will add it to our first page


----------



## sepheronx

nice thread man! I just wish I had one of these boards! Oh well, I may go with a non SLI board, but that has 2 PCI16x slots, so I can get the optimized bios in order to enable SLI. For what reason? cause I might get board later on! lol.

I wonder though, how much I can hit with that mobo with my current setup?


----------



## dpawl31

Hey glad you dropped in.

Why do you NEED a 16x SLI board? Did you see the link on the first page, showing 8x8x is almost exactly the same?









What are you looking to hit? It will take whatever you throw at it.
It seems to be more a deal of what your CPU can take, not the board


----------



## dpawl31

For any of you that don't have a clue what I do when I am not hogging this thread...






YES. It *is* me.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Ravin- THAT SUCKS







Sorry man. Glad my rig isn't as complicated, I don't need to deal with that mess










Meh.....It's not really more complicated, just got more storage









Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hey glad you dropped in.

Why do you NEED a 16x SLI board? Did you see the link on the first page, showing 8x8x is almost exactly the same?









What are you looking to hit? It will take whatever you throw at it.
It seems to be more a deal of what your CPU can take, not the board










Why do we even need SLI....or PCIe for that matter, the AGP8x bus was not even ever fully utilized









Hey...side note, Sandra is now recognizing that I have 2 cores instead of just one. I think that I had a bad install my first go with XP and the nVidia drivers. the nVidia drivers can be finiky like that. I had some severe problems when I went from the old VoDoo3/3000 to the GeForce4 Ti4600 before doing a reinstall.


----------



## Nevaziah

One of these days i'm going to have to try SLI. just for the heck of it, see if 'I' notice a difference. maybe when 8600s come out.....


----------



## Mr Pink57

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4551

Board came today and I got this cooler some of you where talking about for the SB. I will say it is a weak NB cooler if that is what it was designed for. It is very light and seems almost hollow. I swipped a bit of sand paper across the bottom to smooth out any impurities. The mounting is kinda wack as the screws are a pain to get in, just make sure you have it exactly sized with the wholes before doing anything.

I am gonna take it slow with installing this board as I have some wires to remove and re route. I usually rush the install to get it going and then worry about it all later (I do check twice though). Also I lapped the HR-05 SLi for the heck of it and the Infinity last night with some decent results but I gotta say lapping is a pain in the ass and rather boring.

pink


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


hey tribeca, whats the voltage of your 6400 running at 3.2? I can boot my system but it shuts off on full load, i need more voltage but i don't really know how much, i tried 1.35V but don't really want to go any higher, i'd love to get that final little bit so i can run 400fsb


My vcore is at 1.36 with the +100mV option turned on (so 1.46--I've been told that the +100mV reduces vdroop, though I haven't formally tested it). The last 18mV or so were needed to prevent vdrooping down to 1.36 during orthos testing, which I suspect is why I was getting errors after several hours (3.5 and 5.5 in two seperate tests) of stress testing. Basically I was getting these brief (1-2 seconds) spikes from roughly 1.378 mV to like 1.362 mV during testing, once I pushed the vcore high enough to stop that from happening I was all good.

The _other_ thing I had to do, though, in order to get into windows at 387.5 or above, was put the northbridge voltage up to the max possible (1.7 something). I have crazy airflow in my case, so the temp isn't really a problem (although after I did this I did electrical tape an 80mm fan right smack dab in the middle of the left side case panel). I'm still planning on seeing if I can lower the NB by a notch, cause it doesn't seem like it should need to be that high, but I haven't had a chance to risk making my system unstable yet. I'll probably do it in a month or so.

edit: pheoxs, I just noticed you're at 3.75 x 8. This suggests to me you ran into the same block I did before I upped my NB voltage...so I'd start there if I were you. Also, note that I didn't just max out my NB voltage suddenly. I first went to 1.5?, and suddenly I could get into windows. Wasn't orthos stable past a few seconds though, so I upped it again and I was all good. Then I went up to 400 FSB and started fiddling with the vcore again.


----------



## mcogan10

how are these damn boards? do they overclock consistantly over 500 fsb???


----------



## Kopi

450 at no problems yet, due to current stock cooling i havn't tried higher

Check this review

http://www.techspot.com/review/43-asus-p5n-e-sli/


----------



## TriBeCa

there's plenty of reports of 500 FSB out there. I'd say it's not clear how 'consistent' the boards are on that front, as there's not exactly a whole pile of chips out there capable of that kinda of bus speed.

I will say that I haven't seen _anyone_ out there who's clearly run into a limit of the board, rather than their processor.


----------



## Kopi

I got bored guys.

3.2ghz now on stock cooling









456 FSB...sweet eh? 1.35 volts and currently 40c idle and 60c orthos load...thats not bad. Rams at 5-5-5-12 at 912mhz (stock timings) and 2.1 volts...seems to be running great, no hitches. I reaaaaaaaaaly want to get my XP-90 running, been so long, but this stock cooler rocks. 18s superPI...i LOVE THIS THING.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I got bored guys.

3.2ghz now on stock cooling









456 FSB...sweet eh? 1.35 volts and currently 40c idle and 60c orthos load...thats not bad. Rams at 5-5-5-12 at 912mhz (stock timings) and 2.1 volts...seems to be running great, no hitches. I reaaaaaaaaaly want to get my XP-90 running, been so long, but this stock cooler rocks. 18s superPI...i LOVE THIS THING.


Give it more!!!!! you still have a full 10C to play with


----------



## dpawl31

Man I am so sick of the haters... "Bah my P5N32-E does 500FSB easy"

Well so would this board, with that CPU...

People just don't get that it's not the board limiting 450+ FSB... it's the freakin chip. Certain steppings and what not allow 500+FSB...

Good job on the OC Kopi...


----------



## Kopi

Thanks.

According to shipping, April 15th.

The max OC will begin. Waiting for my mounting device for my cooler, stock atm.

Pook had a Biostar board and he ran 515 fsb, now he can only get 470, he doesnt like the board i dont think


----------



## The Pook

Boards very Kops.
From what you've been posting you got a good board out of the lot.
When you get your bracket in, find your max FSB and post it.

No one but you can do what you're claiming, so I wanna see.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hey Pook, you see Kopi's new sig? Haha









Yessir.


----------



## dpawl31

His system specs say hes on 0202... if thats the case, WTH is he waiting for...


----------



## dpawl31

WUDDYA KNOW there he is









Pook what BIOS MAN!?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Man I am so sick of the haters... "Bah my P5N32-E does 500FSB easy"

Well so would this board, with that CPU...

People just don't get that it's not the board limiting 450+ FSB... it's the freakin chip. Certain steppings and what not allow 500+FSB...

Good job on the OC Kopi...

Not true. My chip is proven at 515FSB at least (Biostar 965PT) and this board is not stable past 480.

FSB plays a very important role in overclocking, if the FSB isn't stable, you get RAM errors, CPU errors, graphical errors, slower than stock performance, etc. It's nasty and its hard to figure it out since 90% you end up treating the "symptoms." ("Oh, my RAM gives error, more volts. Oh, still unstable, maybe my CPU. More volts." , etc etc.)

Saying this board can do 500+ FSB may be possible, but it is far from common.

And with that, getting something to eat, and going to sleep.

*edit*
0505.


----------



## dpawl31

It is quirky I know. But I am sure you can get back to 515.


----------



## The Pook

With this BIOS? No.
Posts at 480, BSOD during POST.
Posts at 475, Windows errors, Orthos fails, but still stable enough to use.

Going to downgrade to 0401 over Spring Break to try again, but I doubt that'd help any.

And I do like this board. Stable as hell, cheap (not as cheap as the Biostar, though), and doesn't break constantly when pushed. (Biostar *cough*) Just not a fan of the 475 cap I have.


----------



## Kopi

Yeah i think pook kinda got a dud, just like chips. How much does the Biostar run for?


----------



## The Pook

Dud? No. It's the average. Read around some of the reviews and you'll see the average is anywhere from 460 to 485.

Go to other forums as well and poke around. More people are stuck in that range that at 500+.


----------



## Ravin

w00t! 100 page thread!


----------



## dpawl31

Yay for 100 pages







and only a day late for my birthday


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
edit: pheoxs, I just noticed you're at 3.75 x 8. This suggests to me you ran into the same block I did before I upped my NB voltage...so I'd start there if I were you. Also, note that I didn't just max out my NB voltage suddenly. I first went to 1.5?, and suddenly I could get into windows. Wasn't orthos stable past a few seconds though, so I upped it again and I was all good. Then I went up to 400 FSB and started fiddling with the vcore again.

Thanks for the info, i don't really want to put my Vcore up that high, and i didn't really run into a block, at 400 * 8 I can boot into windows at stock voltage (1.325V) but under full load, orthos, the voltage drops down to 1.26 and the computer shuts off.

Edit: Sweet 100 pages!!!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Yay for 100 pages







and only a day late for my birthday









happy birthday!


----------



## dpawl31

LOLZ where did you find THAT smiley lol.


----------



## Mr Pink57

Well got everything installed and so far so good. That NB gets hot hot hot I do not have an exact temp yet but the Thermalright on there is warm to the touch and you would not be able to leave your hand on there forever. The SB is ok but does still get warm. Took be the better part of 3 hours to install everything (I took it very slow and the damn infinity did not want to install). The board is very well laid out minus the 4pin which is bad on all new nvidia chipsets being way over there, luckily i bought an extension cable from performance-pcs. To be honest I am liking this board over the 680i I had already as I did not like the heatpipe coolers as I was going to replace them anyways.

Oh and I loaded the board up with BGA heatsinks, she is practically made of copper by this point.










pink


----------



## dpawl31

Look @ all that copper









How the hell is your SB warm? And your NB is hot @ stock, with that BEAST?

My NB is @ 1.5v and is barely warm to the touch, with stock HS  and my SB is ice cold!

Lookin great pinky!


----------



## Mr Pink57

The Thermalright always seems to get hot. It even got hot on my Ultra-D when the thing was cool. Until I find out what the temp is I will not worry about it. I know the CPU is at 28C from the BIOS so I am doing good there. As for the SB it may be the GPU cooler that is causing that as it blows at the mobo and may be passing over the SB.

pink


----------



## dpawl31

Maybe its just transferring heat so much better it just feels warmer.
Maybe my chip is staying hotter than yours because it cant cool well enough.

That's mah guess.


----------



## Mr Pink57

Have you removed the stock to replace it with AS5? When I removed it the TIM was solidified I could not wipe it off I had to set ArtiClean on there to break it up first it was almost like a plastic.

pink


----------



## dpawl31

w00t! Over 1k posts and 100 pages now! hah...

I am not worried about my NB, barely warm. And yes I reseated with AS5.


----------



## The Pook

My SB is hot as hell. I put a 80mm fan on top of it and it's fine now. Need a heatsink for it.

My NB heatsink is hot as hell too, but Everest reads it as 32C-42C, so I guess it's alright. When I have an 80mm fan on SB, it reads 32-34C, without it reads about 42C.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


LOLZ where did you find THAT smiley lol.


Click the More link under the smiles......







lolz


----------



## The Pook

0401 = still nothing past 477FSB.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


My SB is hot as hell. I put a 80mm fan on top of it and it's fine now. Need a heatsink for it.

My NB heatsink is hot as hell too, but Everest reads it as 32C-42C, so I guess it's alright. When I have an 80mm fan on SB, it reads 32-34C, without it reads about 42C.


How the heck do you have temp readings for your NB/SB?
Is there really a sensor there that speedfan wont find?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Click the More link under the smiles......







lolz


When I click MORE all I get is:















































































And I have these for normal editing:











































































































So .... .... .... no party hat? lol.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
How the heck do you have temp readings for your NB/SB?
Is there really a sensor there that speedfan wont find?

I don't.
"Motherboard" temp on the 650i is the mean of the SB and NB.


----------



## dpawl31

Seriously?
I was told it was a sensor around the PCI area...


----------



## TriBeCa

Oh that's good to know. Not too bad then, it peaks at 39 degrees under orthos and runs about 36 under normal load. and that's with no SB cooler (though I have a pci slot fan in the top pci slot) and stock NB (reseated with as5).

pook, you've tried maxing nb voltage?


----------



## Mr Pink57

Just curious what ram slots you guys recommend as the manual tells me nothing about what style of dimms to use in what slots. I thought the black ones where the ones to use but now I am unsure.

pink


----------



## The Pook

Doesn't seem to matter, I get the same OCs and such no matter what you use. I use the yellow slots, but there shouldn't be a problem using either.

And yeah, even with 1.748v, no go past 477FSB.


----------



## DonNiger

I love that board. It takes my mem and runs thouse 3-3-3-4-1T @ 740 mhz Ofcorse, 2,4 volts but who cares. Burn baby, burn.
















1050 Mhz 5-4-4-8-2T didn't give me any perf boost, so trying to have as low latency as possible.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr Pink57*


Just curious what ram slots you guys recommend as the manual tells me nothing about what style of dimms to use in what slots. I thought the black ones where the ones to use but now I am unsure.

pink


I use slots 1/3...it just seems right lol.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
When I click MORE all I get is:















































































And I have these for normal editing:











































































































So .... .... .... no party hat? lol.

Really? I get a TON of smileys under the more link



































:swearing:












































and that's only about 1/6 of them!


----------



## xlr8

I should be getting this board Thursday from Newegg. I am going to use the e4300-CPU and will be trying for just a 3000MHz overclock which should be attainable I hope. My ram (2 gigs) DDR2-800 will be very good quality.

What I have been reading so far is that I should use a 1:1 divider to have the best stability. The e4300 multiplier is #9 soâ€¦ 9 x 333FSB = 2997 which would also run my ram at only 666 MHz (yiks the devil)â€¦.. I know nothing about overclockingâ€¦.I would like to have my CPU running at 3000 MHz and my Ram running at 800 MHz at least, I think I would be upset at running my ram lower than what it is capable of doingâ€¦ Is there a way to do this while retaining the same stability as the 1:1 divider provides?
Can anybody give me settings below on what they would start to use?
Does anybody know what â€œSync modeâ€ is compared to 1:1

FSB memory clock mode- (auto) (linked) (unlinked)

FSB memory ratio- (auto) (1:1) (5:4) (3:2) (Sync mode)

FSB (QDR) MHz (800) - (533 to 3000)

MEM (DDR), MHz (Unlinked) (Linked)


----------



## Kopi

To get ram at 800mhz you'll need 400mhz fsb, if you want to run 1:1 that is. Thats 3600mhz, a large OC. You could run 800mhz and 333fsb if you wish, but its going to be a weird devider.

Sync mode is the same thing as 1:1 i believe, puts ram "in sync" with the FSB. Correct me if im wrong


----------



## TriBeCa

why not drop your multiplier to x8 and run the e4300 at 400 FSB (if it's capable of it, I have no idea really--your c2d e6400 certainly is, since that's exactly the OC I'm running)? that would give you 3.2 GHz and 1:1 ratio.

whatever you do, what I'd do to start (after you get windows and drivers installed, blah blah) is:

1. manually set RAM timings to stock (and set to 2T)
2. set to unlinked, and ratio to auto, vcore to 1.25, vdimm to stock (or auto), NB to 1.3x (can't remember what it is)
3. set CPU FSB to 1200 (this is a 300 clock speed, remember recent intel chips are rated at x4 the clock speed)
4. boot to windows and check orthos stability for 1 minute
5. save your OC profile to one of the slots (so you can load it back if you become unstable), and increase CPU FSB by 50
6. repeat 4 and 5 over and over again until you run into trouble or reach your desired FSB.

when you run into trouble:
increase vcore as needed, but keep an eye on temps (make sure you're using speedfan or something that can detect core temps)
around 1400-1500 (350) you may have to increase NB voltage to 1.5x (I had to go to 1.7x to get stable at 1550).

once you reach your desired FSB/clock speed, test orthos for 6-8 hours!

you might also want to see if you can stay stable with RAM set to 1T.


----------



## xlr8

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
why not drop your multiplier to x8 and run the e4300 at 400 FSB (if it's capable of it, I have no idea really--your c2d e6400 certainly is, since that's exactly the OC I'm running)? that would give you 3.2 GHz and 1:1 ratio.

whatever you do, what I'd do to start (after you get windows and drivers installed, blah blah) is:

1. manually set RAM timings to stock (and set to 2T)
2. set to unlinked, and ratio to auto, vcore to 1.25, vdimm to stock (or auto), NB to 1.3x (can't remember what it is)
3. set CPU FSB to 1200 (this is a 300 clock speed, remember recent intel chips are rated at x4 the clock speed)
4. boot to windows and check orthos stability for 1 minute
5. save your OC profile to one of the slots (so you can load it back if you become unstable), and increase CPU FSB by 50
6. repeat 4 and 5 over and over again until you run into trouble or reach your desired FSB.

when you run into trouble:
increase vcore as needed, but keep an eye on temps (make sure you're using speedfan or something that can detect core temps)
around 1400-1500 (350) you may have to increase NB voltage to 1.5x (I had to go to 1.7x to get stable at 1550).

once you reach your desired FSB/clock speed, test orthos for 6-8 hours!

you might also want to see if you can stay stable with RAM set to 1T.

Thanks a lot for the step by step instructionsâ€¦I really do need them..(noob)
I also thought about lower the multiplier to x8 as you suggested but was unsure of this
as I thought I have read somewhere that lowering your multiplier is not good to do but donâ€™t remember why??

Do you think itâ€™s really not going to be that big of a difference performance wise running my ram at 667 MHz verse 800 MHz?
I figure I might get some really tight timings with my ram at 667 MHzâ€¦


----------



## dpawl31

Pink - RAM slot issue was only with stock BIOS








If you are still on it, use the 2nd slots.

Ravin- strange you get all those smileys and I get such a small amount?

XLR8- If you can get a lower multi, I believe it's actually better? Sync mode is 1:1 as Kopi said. Use that. Tribeca said AUTO but use sync. AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.

There is a minor difference in performance running ram @ full speed vs 1:1. It will gain you maybe 100 points in 3DMark06. At best, I believe.

If you can lower your multi to 8 and run 375FSB that will gain you exactly 3Ghz, you can go higher and higher









Also you mentioned 333FSB x 9, 2997Mhz. Use 334FSB x 9 if you go with the 9 divider, and push it gently over 3Ghz (3006Mhz)

3006 is a much prettier number than 2997 hehe


----------



## dpawl31

Now that Pook informed me of the NB/SB temp being the motherboard temp, I decided to try and cool mine a bit.

Still running that crappy stock NB sink, and no SB sink.
But I got some old fans









It's not pretty, but it dropped me from 32C idle to 28C idle







I will be getting new NB/SB sinks soon hopefully... god it's ugly


----------



## dpawl31

*ATTENTION ALL P5N-E SLI 650i THREAD READERS/BOARD OWNERS!*

I need *YOUR* help. I want to add a tips/hints section at the beginning of the thread. If you look, I have already started. I would appreciate:

ANY tips/hints that you have
If I list something WRONG, please let me know!
I will be using these tips to also compile a complete P5N overclocking guide, and will give all credit where credit is due, as well as REP+








Thanks in advance guys, I really think this will help a LOT of the new guys, and avoid them reading the 100+ pages lol. I will be reading EVERY page myself to search for more tips









*PS*- If you haven't already, VOTE 5STARS for the thread!


----------



## The Pook

When I get home I will.
Little thing called school.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


*ATTENTION ALL P5N-E SLI 650i THREAD READERS/BOARD OWNERS!*

I need *YOUR* help. I want to add a tips/hints section at the beginning of the thread. If you look, I have already started. I would appreciate:


My 2 cents.....When you set up, download the latest nVidia drivers from their website instead of using the CD that came with your board. Sounds hokey, but I found that by installing the older drivers from the CD and then updating was giving me some problems with RAID bandwidth and Sandra/PCmark only seeing one core.


----------



## Kopi

First thing I'd have to say is about the auto settings, they are often read incorectly. Check your ram settings (timings) online and check stock voltages for everythign and set it yourself.


----------



## Nevaziah

My mobo's getting pwned by my ram right now.
I have 1GB AUM DDR667 and another 1GB of ddr667 of unkown brand.

they both work perfectly cause i tested each one separately. Now, ONLY the first 2 slots of ram work!!! meaning hte closest to the cpu, the black and the yellow. If i try inserting the ram in dual channel or in any of the other two slots, it wont boot.

I have the febuary bios. could that be the problem?

EDIT:

I had a bad experience flashing my old gigabyte board. it's messed up now. so i'm scared...
but my old ASUS A8NSLI-premium flashed okay.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


My mobo's getting pwned by my ram right now.
I have 1GB AUM DDR667 and another 1GB of ddr667 of unkown brand.

they both work perfectly cause i tested each one separately. Now, ONLY the first 2 slots of ram work!!! meaning hte closest to the cpu, the black and the yellow. If i try inserting the ram in dual channel or in any of the other two slots, it wont boot.

I have the febuary bios. could that be the problem?


Same thing happened to me with my OCZ Platinums. I RMA'd the board, returned the RAM for something that had been tested in the board by the RAM manufacturer, and have had no problems. I suspect those DIMM slots that the RAM won't boot in are actually dead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Pink - RAM slot issue was only with stock BIOS








If you are still on it, use the 2nd slots.

XLR8- If you can get a lower multi, I believe it's actually better? Sync mode is 1:1 as Kopi said. Use that. Tribeca said AUTO but use sync. AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.


I'm on the stock BIOS with my RAM in the black slots with no trouble.

I don't seem to have this 'sync' setting in my BIOS? When I set to unlinked, the divider option is grayed out at 'auto'. I assumed it just meant it automatically sets the divider to whatever clock speeds I give it. So, under unlinked with 1600 cpu clock and 800 ram clock, i'm running a 1:1 divider no problem. The problem with running sync or whatever before you get your OC stable, is your RAM UC's while you're slowly pushing your clock speed up. I'd rather keep my RAM clock constant than have two clock speeds changing every time I boot (for troubleshooting reasons).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8*


Thanks a lot for the step by step instructionsâ€¦I really do need them..(noob)
I also thought about lower the multiplier to x8 as you suggested but was unsure of this
as I thought I have read somewhere that lowering your multiplier is not good to do but donâ€™t remember why??

Do you think itâ€™s really not going to be that big of a difference performance wise running my ram at 667 MHz verse 800 MHz? 
I figure I might get some really tight timings with my ram at 667 MHzâ€¦


I've read that lowering your multiplier lowers the mb chipset bus speed, but I don't claim to understand why or how or to be able to evaluate whether the person who said that is full of it.

I'd run at 800 MHz and focus on getting your CPU up to that clock to match it, rather than UCing the RAM







Though yes, you'd probably get great latencies at 667, I suspect your system performance will be better at 800.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


*ATTENTION ALL P5N-E SLI 650i THREAD READERS/BOARD OWNERS!*

I need *YOUR* help. I want to add a tips/hints section at the beginning of the thread. If you look, I have already started. I would appreciate:

ANY tips/hints that you have
If I list something WRONG, please let me know!
I will be using these tips to also compile a complete P5N overclocking guide, and will give all credit where credit is due, as well as REP+








Thanks in advance guys, I really think this will help a LOT of the new guys, and avoid them reading the 100+ pages lol. I will be reading EVERY page myself to search for more tips










1. Be sure your RAM has been tested in the board.
2. At a minimum, reseat the northbridge heatsink with a real thermal transfer medium before installation.
3. Manually set RAM timings to stock, as this board seems to like going auto to loose timings. Also make sure the command rate is set to 2T. If you're going for 1T wait until you achieve a stable OC you're happy with.
4. genral OCing thing: make sure you have a stable windows install and say 10 minutes under orthos before doing ANY ocing. 
5. make sure you know how to reset the cmos (jumper+battery) before you start ;p
6. don't forget about the NB voltage settings if you can't seem to get stable by playing with vcore (especially over 375 FSB).
7. Test each succesful bootup into windows for at least 1 minute of orthos at low FSB's and for at least 10 minutes at higher ones. You can often diagnose and fix a problem before it becomes a real problem (i.e. no POST at higher clock speeds) this way.
8. When you encounter orthos errors after close to or more than an hour, make sure you check the voltage and temperature charts in speedfan. If you notice the error coincides with, say, a drop in vcore (due to vdroop), you know where to look to fix it. For example, I couldn't get 8-hours orthos stable until I pushed vcore high enough that it *never* vdrooped under 1.37V.
9. Use the 'Save OC Profile' option! If you don't have a thumb drive, I'd recommend using one of the spots for either your 'stock' BIOS settings or your last 6+ hours orthos stable OC. Use the other one for your last succesful boot into windows. 
10. If your system hangs while you're in the BIOS or immediately after POST (so you can't get into the BIOS), turn off your PSU for a minute. Turn it back on, boot up, and load one of your OC profile, save and quit AS FAST AS POSSIBLE. If you can get in and out before the system hangs you won't have to reset the CMOS with battery+jumper







I can't even remember how many times I did this when I was having trouble with my first RAM kit.


----------



## dpawl31

Nev- Try flashing to the 04 series bios.
The windows utility works great for me, but if you are scared to use it, use EZFlash in the BIOS.

Tribeca- Still on stock bios? That was buggy as all hell for RAM.
Go to 04 series bios. I am willing to bet 04 would have revived your old board, but the OCZ Platinum seem to be the only troublesome ram so far.
Also in regards to your tips/hints... Sync mode is in LINKED, not UNLINKED.
Linked offers: AUTO, a few dividers, and SYNC. Sync is another way of saying 1:1.

An overclock attempt CAN fail because you are running stock RAM speed and timings and a divider other than 1:1. Intel chips LOVE 1:1. So I suggest running your ram underclocked, with stock timings, and 2T. Use sync mode and you don't have to worry about the whole entering two values every time, just up your FSB and your RAM will match it. ( ie 1060FSB & DDR2-530)
I have never had to remove the battery to clear CMOS, the jumper cuts the circuit. You can do either, but both is not neccessary.
As far as system hangs and such, If I get to the BIOS, I am OK. If it hangs before hand, no matter how many reboots etc I can NOT get to the BIOS. Always have to clear CMOS, hence the reason I am doing a case mod that includes a custom CMOS clear switch









OC Profiles - I like to save, as you said, stock settings in OC Profile #1.
I save my current OC attempts to 2 for easy access, and save FINAL, stable overclocks on my thumb drive.

I don't have time right now to edit the hints/tips on the first page, but I will add this stuff later tonight. Pook, where you at with your tips?


----------



## TriBeCa

I am on stock BIOS, because I had no trouble with it and so saw no reason to change it (on this board, I tried every single BIOS more than once on my first board trying to get the RAM stable).

I tried every single BIOS on my old board, and no matter what it wouldn't boot with RAM in the two dead DIMM slots. So no, 04 didn't revive it ;p

My race-against-the-system-hang-in-BIOS was almost exclusively on my old board, with those OCZ's. There were many many times when I saved myself a CMOS clear by loading saved settings and quitting before it hung. I think I did it once on my new board, as well, when I had too low NB voltage or something. I included it because it came in real handy when I was fighting with that RAM, so I figured it could be useful. I've also seen other people say they've had system hangs while in the BIOS, so I know it wasn't just that board/RAM combo.

As for the 1:1 issue, I'd tend to agree that 1:1 is something to shoot for at all (ok, most) costs. But as long as you keep the divider issue in the back of your mind I don't see a reason to keep 1:1 for your whole OCing process. I was able to get 13:16 and 15:16 dividers no problem. I only ran into trouble when I tried to boot into what would've been a 31:32 divider, but since that was clearly a longshot it was no trouble to jump forward to 1:1.


----------



## Kopi

You say you had OCz? Were they platinum sticks? Platinum sticks dont work on this board for one reason or another, i had constant crashing and instability...changed to gold series and worked perfect


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah kopi, i've seen a couple other people that had trouble with platinums in this board. i did work out the problem, that's why you'll notice my system specs say i have corsair dominators now









But Neveziah's problem with the two DIMM slots with his 'unknown' RAM chips sounds _exactly_ like the final round of the P5N-E v. OCZ Platinum match I refereed, when the Plat's finally got the P5N-E in a brutal DIMM-slot hold that resulted in a long-term injury for the P5N-E and lost it the match.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



As for the 1:1 issue, I'd tend to agree that 1:1 is something to shoot for at all (ok, most) costs. But as long as you keep the divider issue in the back of your mind I don't see a reason to keep 1:1 for your whole OCing process. I was able to get 13:16 and 15:16 dividers no problem. I only ran into trouble when I tried to boot into what would've been a 31:32 divider, but since that was clearly a longshot it was no trouble to jump forward to 1:1.


Yeah, I am not saying 1:1 is NECCESSARY during the whole process. But to rule out dividers crashing your OC, running 1:1 while testing new settings is best.
Once you achieve highest CPU OC, then bump your RAM up to stock, or whatever gets you a good divider. Unless of course you go over your rated speed while overclocking, lol.

I'd say run sync till you get your highest OC, with stock timings and voltage, and 2T. Then try 1T, if it works, tighten timings.


----------



## The Pook

1) Do not run board 24/7 on the 1.748v NB voltage option, no matter your temps or cooling. Fine for those SuperPi and 3DMark benchies you want to run, but you'll be killing it slowly.

2) LDT Frequency is your friend for LGA775. Heard about HTT Frequency multipliers on AMD? Same deal with Intel - just NB -> SB instead of NB -> RAM/CPU like on AMD. Maintains a higher FSB without errors, and doesn't kill your performance much, if at all. (8x vs 1x = 22 points lower in 3DMark05)

3) More of a RAM suggestion - do NOT run past 2.2v without a fan blowing across your RAM. Not only will it makes your RAM last longer, it'll maintain a higher OC.

4) "Auto OC" on this board is fairly good - but often use too much voltage. If you use the auto OC, which I don't suggest, you can usually crank down the vcore by about .35-.55v, vDimm by about .15v, and NB to the 1.3/1.5v option depending on the OC.

5) Give the SB a cooler as soon as you can; even though it won't help OCing, really. Why then? Keeping your board alive is important, no? That extra 25C off the SB isn't going to terribly shorten the life span, but 3-6 months is 3-6 months more of OCN and OCing, is it not?









6) Do not use large heatsinks for the NB. Use "high rise" NB coolers, like the HR-05 SLI, since most large heatsinks for the NB won't fit between aftermarket CPU coolers/your video card.

7) Don't have to clear your CMOS! That is, if you have an on/off switch on your PSU. If you've OCed too far, you can still boot and the board will temporarily clear the CMOS until your next reboot or until you change the settings in the BIOS, whichever comes first. Simply turn the computer off when you know it won't be able post (through the switch on your PSU), turn it back on, wait for the green LED to turn back on the board, and quickly turn it back off and press the power button for your case. It will spin the fans for about a second, then shut off. (Power running through the computer, even though you turned the switch off.) Once it turns off again, flip the switch to on, and start again.

For the last one, easier instructions:
1) Turn off computer through the switch on your PSU.
2) Turn it back on, wait for green LED on mobo to turn on.
3) Quickly switch the switch to off, press power button.
4) Make sure fans briefly spin (and stop.)
5) Flip switch back on, press power, go into BIOS.









Good enough?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


1) Do not run board 24/7 on the 1.748v NB voltage option, no matter your temps or cooling. Fine for those SuperPi and 3DMark benchies you want to run, but you'll be killing it slowly.

2) LDT Frequency is your friend for LGA775. Heard about HTT Frequency multipliers on AMD? Same deal with Intel - just NB -> SB instead of NB -> RAM/CPU like on AMD. Maintains a higher FSB without errors, and doesn't kill your performance much, if at all. (8x vs 1x = 22 points lower in 3DMark05)

3) More of a RAM suggestion - do NOT run past 2.2v without a fan blowing across your RAM. Not only will it makes your RAM last longer, it'll maintain a higher OC.

4) "Auto OC" on this board is fairly good - but often use too much voltage. If you use the auto OC, which I don't suggest, you can usually crank down the vcore by about .35-.55v, vDimm by about .15v, and NB to the 1.3/1.5v option depending on the OC.

5) Give the SB a cooler as soon as you can; even though it won't help OCing, really. Why then? Keeping your board alive is important, no? That extra 25C off the SB isn't going to terribly shorten the life span, but 3-6 months is 3-6 months more of OCN and OCing, is it not?









6) Do not use large heatsinks for the NB. Use "high rise" NB coolers, like the HR-05 SLI, since most large heatsinks for the NB won't fit between aftermarket CPU coolers/your video card.

7) Don't have to clear your CMOS! That is, if you have an on/off switch on your PSU. If you've OCed too far, you can still boot and the board will temporarily clear the CMOS until your next reboot or until you change the settings in the BIOS, whichever comes first. Simply turn the computer off when you know it won't be able post (through the switch on your PSU), turn it back on, wait for the green LED to turn back on the board, and quickly turn it back off and press the power button for your case. It will spin the fans for about a second, then shut off. (Power running through the computer, even though you turned the switch off.) Once it turns off again, flip the switch to on, and start again.

For the last one, easier instructions:
1) Turn off computer through the switch on your PSU.
2) Turn it back on, wait for green LED on mobo to turn on.
3) Quickly switch the switch to off, press power button.
4) Make sure fans briefly spin (and stop.)
5) Flip switch back on, press power, go into BIOS.









Good enough?










HOLY HELL POOK USED SMILEYS!

I always feel like you are in a bad mood because you never use "!" or









LOL..

Anyway, awesome tips. Only 2 questions: 
how'd you come about the 1.7v NB voltage being dangerous for 24/7?
LDT Frequency... never knew what it was - teach me master Pook!


----------



## TriBeCa

/me reboots and sets NB voltage down 1.5x and tests it.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


HOLY HELL POOK USED SMILEYS!

I always feel like you are in a bad mood because you never use "!" or









LOL..

Anyway, awesome tips. Only 2 questions: 
how'd you come about the 1.7v NB voltage being dangerous for 24/7?
LDT Frequency... never knew what it was - teach me master Pook!










1) The specs of the 650i state that 1.6v is the max safe voltage...Asus had it up on their site for a while, but I can't find it anymore. ThaWaxShop and SDumper confirmed it for me, so thats enough proof for me. The site never mentioned if it'll quickly kill it or its a very slow/not noticble "death", but .13v won't do much for a NB, so I tend to believe a very slow death, hence the "OK for benchmarks parts." 
2) Will do.

(Bad mood? Step up from an ass, I guess.







)


----------



## dpawl31

LOLZ...

I am only @ 1.3 so I am ok. Then again I am stuck with a 14 multi, so im @ 265 FSB lol.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



(Bad mood? Step up from an ass, I guess.







)


hah! Me likey the new Pooky!


----------



## The Pook

Stuck? I wouldn't be complaining...I'm stuck with a x7.

(With a 477FSB roof, at that.)

Anywho.
If I ever get my modded BIOS to work right, I'll post it up.
Right now, enter the BIOS = freeze.
So I gotta stick with the ASUS made stuff for now.


----------



## TriBeCa

lowered to 1.5x, system hang after 4 minutes of orthos









i'm trying more vcore now, in the smallest possible steps.

any hints if this doesn't work?


----------



## The Pook

Lower LDT from 5x/Auto -> 3x/4x.


----------



## TriBeCa

I'll give that a go if I get another hang here.

Can you school me on what the LDT multiplier _is_?


----------



## The Pook

LDT Multi is the multiplier of how fast the NB "talks" to the SB. When you raise the FSB, so does the "talk speed". Lowering the multi slows it down a bit - same as when you drop the mutli on a CPU.

Honestly, it sounds like the voltage on the CPU or NB is too low.

Memory timings/lack of volts generally results in BSoD's or restarts.
CPU instability usually result in lock ups, as do NB "problems."


----------



## TriBeCa

Umm, yeah. I'm 99.999% sure it's too low voltage to the NB, since I had a stable OC with NB volts at 1.7X. As I said above, I lowered to 1.5X at your recommendation and am getting these system hangs as a result.

Sorry for the noobishness, but I can't for the life of me find the LDT multi setting in the BIOS.... Can you tell me how to change it?

I really like this OC, but I don't want to slowly kill the 650i with too much voltage


----------



## The Pook

Like I mentioned, how fast it actually kills it isn't known...it might only take 2 hours off, might take a month, might kill it in two months.

Just keep in mind most motherboards live well over 8 years old if you don't hit them with a sledge hammer and keep temps in check. Whats two-six months out of that?









LDT Multi -> Chipset Options IIRC.


----------



## TriBeCa

Got it, thanks. I'll try 4x and 3x at 1.5X NB voltage. If I can't either stable I'll go back to 1.7X....

and yeah, if I _knew_ it was only gonna shave 6 months off the board life, I wouldn't much care. I don't anticipate trying to get more than about 4 years out of this board. But...since it's not known, I'd rather stay within the chipset's specifications.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


You say you had OCz? Were they platinum sticks? Platinum sticks dont work on this board for one reason or another, i had constant crashing and instability...changed to gold series and worked perfect



Who seed, that this board does not like OCZ.


----------



## gtboi604

wow dpawl, nice job with the thread, been away a long time, but now Im back...heh, whats new?
saw something bout platinums not working right with this board?
i beg to differ...mine work absolutely amazing...ive got the Rev2s tho...
Anyone notice difference with the new Bios? think its 0501...havent had time to try it yet. thanks!
D~


----------



## TriBeCa

I had trouble with that exact kit, gtboi (Rev2s). And I'm not the only one. Including me, I know of 4 people who've had trouble with them. I'm guessing you just got lucky?

No luck with LDT at 4x...trying 3x now.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Who seed, that this board does not like OCZ.



Platinums are notorious, i've read a good 5 cases excluding myself who have had to change up the platinums. maybe you got lucky


----------



## TriBeCa

no dice with LDT at 3x









i'm back at 1.7X V on the NB cause I don't have time to fiddle with it right now.

is there *any* chance upping vcore would stabilize the system with lower nb? is there anything *else* I could do to get it stable with a lower NB voltage? i mean, as far as I know I'm the only that's had to go that high to get stable at 400 FSB...so what gives?


----------



## The Pook

Is it completely stable at 1.742 volts? If the settings are identical, then more volts really won't help.

Keep in mind that the 1.6v is a SOLID 1.6v. This board has very bad vdroop - you're probably pulling only about 1.65ish voltage through the NB.

I wouldn't worry about it.
Better if you didn't, but seriously, who here on OCN keeps hardware running balls to the wall for 4+ years...?


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Is it completely stable at 1.742 volts? If the settings are identical, then more volts really won't help.

Keep in mind that the 1.6v is a SOLID 1.6v. This board has very bad vdroop - you're probably pulling only about 1.65ish voltage through the NB.

I wouldn't worry about it.
Better if you didn't, but seriously, who here on OCN keeps hardware running balls to the wall for 4+ years...?

I think, I'll change mine as soon as DDRIII will come.


----------



## TriBeCa

Yeah, it tested 8 hours orthos stable a week or two ago, when I first settled on this OC. I hadn't touched it, and had had no trouble, until I tried 1.5. I was getting system hangs at under 10 minutes orthos with everything I tried. I set back to 1.742 and tested 15+ minutes before I stopped it.

And yeah, I only plan to need the board for about 4 years tops. I won't worry about it.


----------



## Ravin

Anyone using Patriot RAM on this board? I spied some 2 gig PC2 6400 kits with 4-4-4-12 timings for $169 at Fry's and thinking about picking one (or two) up.


----------



## DonNiger

Made some testing with OCZ


----------



## Kopi

Pssh you can go way higher, niice timings though! I really like OCz as a company. This PSU is great, the ram is solid and both were awesome priced!


----------



## Ravin

Lol...Pook, my wife thought you were me, since that's what she calls me


----------



## dpawl31

Welcome back GTBoi








Lots of people with problems with the platinums, seems to be the only real trouble ram. Rest of us OCZers (Gold FTW!) are doing fine.

I'll have to play with LDT and see if I can use that to get higher than my 3.7









Thanks Pook!

Ravin- I ran Patriot in my old rig (DDR1) and it was GREAT ram.
I do know you can get better deals on same quality or better other places tho.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Lol...Pook, my wife thought you were me, since that's what she calls me


Oh noez. Another Pook? 
Snaps.










Anywho, 7600GT ~100 points behind a 7900GS....reppin' the Asus 650i.


----------



## gtboi604

what exactly was wrong with the platinums?
just wondering cuz maybe i could test mine too?
D~


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtboi604* 
what exactly was wrong with the platinums?
just wondering cuz maybe i could test mine too?
D~

Dunno....Some ppl have had them fry in the board at *cough* stock settings.


----------



## TriBeCa

no, it's the chips that fry the board, not the other way around ;p

and yeah, you'd know if you were having the problem because the MAXIMUM stability I achieved ever (it was at stock) was 30 minutes orthos stable.

in fact, I was unable to update windows to SP2 because I was getting RAM errors while using the windows update site, which caused it to be unable to continue updating my system--the site just kept coming up with an error.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


no, it's the chips that fry the board, not the other way around ;p

and yeah, you'd know if you were having the problem because the MAXIMUM stability I achieved ever (it was at stock) was 30 minutes orthos stable.

in fact, I was unable to update windows to SP2 because I was getting RAM errors while using the windows update site, which caused it to be unable to continue updating my system--the site just kept coming up with an error.


Weird, I have the Plat rev 2. and haven't had any problems at all, cept i can't get 3.2 stable, it shuts off sometimes at full load, but thats just not enough vcore but i need better cooling to try n up the voltage anymore


----------



## dpawl31

Pookster- 7600GT FTW!







Nice job.
What program is that system tweaks thing, I've seen it before (had it before?) but don't remember how or what it was with.

As far as the Plat OCZ... at least some of you have them working. Maybe it was just a bad batch, I think for every person saying its bad there is one saying good. So I'd just assume it's a bad set that may need recalling?

Ravin- before you get a warning from an admin or whatever - you need to edit your sig. I got a warning from Transonic (damnit... first one ever on ANY forum!)
Your sig has to be a max of 8 lines down. You are @ 12!


----------



## dpawl31

Exhinilo (probably mispelled the crap outta that one...)

Your PM box is FULL, clear it out lol...


----------



## Mr Pink57

Just curious about you guys using a sound card. What PCI port are you using? I know some people have issues with putting a sound card in certain PCI slots on some boards.

Got my Silverstone DA750 yesterday, what a huge PSU. And the Firestix got here today.

pink


----------



## The Pook

I was really close to RMAing my board for a while there...
Accidentally had my LDT multi at 8x instead of 5x. Couldn't POST past 450FSB.

But anyway.

RMAing my RAM, so I'll be on my 3000+ rig for a while. Saving up for a Commando or a 680i, so I won't be having my 650i board for long, either, though.

In all honesty, if someone would give me $800 for my rig, I'd do it in a heartbeat. So many things I want different...

I want G. Skill HZs...RAM can't do past 950Mhz...
I want a E6400...higher multi.
I want a Commando...


----------



## Perry

Congrats on the sticky.

Chances are by the time I pick one of these up, most of you will have moved on to bigger and badder things.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Ravin- before you get a warning from an admin or whatever - you need to edit your sig. I got a warning from Transonic (damnit... first one ever on ANY forum!)
Your sig has to be a max of 8 lines down. You are @ 12!










Dude that sux. It was great dialogue. Thanks 4 da advice....


----------



## dpawl31

Sucks you are going to be gone Pook. 
Why do you need such a crazy rig? 450+ FSB on a 6300 and you aren't happy, you must REALLY demand a lot from your rig.

Perry, when are you getting yours lol.
Your 805 would do great on this board...

NP Ravin!


----------



## derrickt80

I'm a total newbie when it comes to OC. I don't even know where to start. My BIOS got locked recently but was able to unlock it, so now I can access my BIOS. Looking at the advance tab, I have no idea what to even do to OC except that automatic feature OC 5%, 10% automatically. Should I start from there? Any suggestion with easy instruction to follow would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, here are my spec.

THERMALTAKE, Armor Jr Black VC3000BWS Mid-Tower Case w/ Window, ATX, No PSU

ANTEC, Neo HE 550 High Efficiency Power Supply, 550W, 24-pin ATX EPS12V, SLI Ready, 5-Year Warranty

ASUS, P5N-E SLI, LGA775, nForce 650i SLI, 1066MHz FSB, DDR2-800 8GB /4, PCIe x16 SLI /2, SATA RAID 5 /5, HDA, GbLAN, FW /2, ATX, Retail

INTEL, Coreâ„¢ 2 Duo E6600 Dual-Core, 2.4GHz, 1066MHz FSB, 4MB L2 Cache, 65nm, 65W, EM64T EIST VT XD, Retail

ZALMAN, CNPS9500 LED Copper CPU Cooler, Blue LED

CORSAIR, 2GB (2 x 1GB) XMS2 PC2-6400 DDR2 800MHz CL5 (5-5-5-12) SDRAM 240-pin DIMM, Non-ECC

eVGA, e-GeForce 8800 GTS 500MHz, 640MB DDR3 1.6MHz, PCIe x16 SLI, 2x DVI, HDTV/S-Video/Composite Out, Retail

WESTERN DIGITAL, 74GB WD RaptorÂ®, SATA 150MB/s, 10000 RPM, 16MB Cache

RAID, No RAID, Independent HDD Drives

PIONEER, DVR-111DBK 16x DVDÂ±R/RW Dual Layer Burner, IDE, Black, OEM

MITSUMI, Black Internal 1.44MB 3.5" Floppy Drive

MICROSOFT, Windows XP Media Center Edition 2005 SP2b w/ Free Upgrade Coupon for Vista, OEM


----------



## Kopi

SWEET system you have setup there, you're going to have some fun.

The basics of OC'ing are raising the FSB (Jumper free mode, FSB configs or soemthing) and raising voltages once those FSB are unstable. Read this guide to get started









http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...clocking+guide


----------



## dpawl31

Jumper Free Configuration
FSB/MEMORY Clocks.

Set to MANUAL, LINKED and SYNC Mode.

Don't use auto OC, it's not perfect and it causes you to not learn


----------



## Kopi

Hey guys.

Im pulling 912mhz memory and 4-4-4-10 2t.


----------



## dpawl31

Can't wait to OC my RAM when I get an e6320


----------



## DonNiger

***, that 0505 bios locked my CPU multiplier - its always 10 after reboot. Have to downgrade I think.


----------



## Kopi

I didnt think any conroe except the x6800 had multi choice?


----------



## TriBeCa

i can change mine. haven't tried increasing, but i can definately lower it.

edit: and i've heard someone else say 0505 locked their multi, I think another board though it might've been here


----------



## DonNiger

the multiplier range for e6700 is 6-10


----------



## xlr8

Anybody with the E4300 CPUâ€¦.Can you tell me how high you were able to push your FSB before you had to increase your stock volts?


----------



## Kopi

I have the e6300 and i went on stock volts up to 3ghz...that was something like 420fsb


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Sucks you are going to be gone Pook.
Why do you need such a crazy rig? 450+ FSB on a 6300 and you aren't happy, you must REALLY demand a lot from your rig.

Perry, when are you getting yours lol.
Your 805 would do great on this board...

NP Ravin!









I'm going to hold off my getting a motherboard for now. Really need to get off this 1024x768 CRT bull****.

Getting a GPU cooler, LCD, then going to invest in a better motherboard probably sometime around Christmas.

Going to RMA my RAM in probably next Saturday. From the looks of it right now, though, I might not even end up doing it. Come Christmas when I get my mobo, chances are there are going to be better badder RAM out that I'll want, so spending an extra $50 now when I won't be using the extra OCing headroom doesn't really make sense, honestly.

This RAM is fine with this board, but one stick don't like past 950Mhz. Other is fine with it. They like low timings but not high speeds. 966Mhz 4-3-3-6 is about all I can push out of 'em.

And yes, I do want a lot of my rig. I don't like one part holding the rest of my rig back. If I had a $5000 computer, it'd probably be bone stock. But when my computer is less than $700 new, I want to be able to hang with the big boys.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Hey guys.

Im pulling 912mhz memory and 4-4-4-10 2t.










Come on Kops. You can do better than that.

















*edit*
See why I want 500+ FSB? I pulled 15.992 on my Biostar board within the first 30 minutes of having it, no tweaking, bloated OS, etc. I'm pretty much stuck with that time with what I got.


----------



## The Pook

And I completely pwnt Windows 2000. 
I thought my OC wasn't stable at 1860 anymore and was about to throw my computer out the window.
But turned out I corrupt Windows 2000 by trying to run 3-3-3-6 1T instead of 2T like I wanted to.

Ooops.
But before I kicked its ass with too low timings, I managed a lower Pi time.


----------



## Kopi

Sweet pook. Yes, i could probably do better..just gimme a couple weeks


----------



## The Pook

Holy hell.
My RAM is getting really wierd.

BSODs at 2.4v....won't POST at 2.5v...loves 2.3v.

***? 
So far I'm not having any problems...
Windows XP was giving me the same problems as Windows 2000...
Just lasted a bit longer before a BSOD.
Only thing I did was lower vDimm voltage.
And now its sailing fine.
So far.

And with that said.
Kopi.
Good thing you have a week, Kopi.
Because then I'm back off to school.


----------



## Kopi

*** pook i think your ****s dying...slowly....ever so...slowly.

You know what im sayng? My stuff should be here on the 15th...i'm already back in school so i dont really know what your saying there


----------



## The Pook

Dying? No...dying would be if it needed 2.54v instead of 2.3v. 
I never tried my RAM past 2.3v...so when I tighten timings I said **** it and tried it and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't POST.

I took out one stick, and it'll run at any voltage I want, so it's my RAM. I was thinking a bad cap somewhere that was killing my voltage to my RAM, so that it was actually getting the less the more I increased, but I checked with a multimeter and it was getting pretty damn close to what the BIOS said. Just that one stick.
(But it won't do 1T...so it doesn't matter if it can do past 2.3v or not.)


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
***, that 0505 bios locked my CPU multiplier - its always 10 after reboot. Have to downgrade I think.

505 locked me into a 10 multy also. i went back to 401 and now i can lower it.


----------



## Ravin

Originally Posted by dpawl31 
No, modding Pook into your lower desk area so he can blow you while you OC... that WON'T work...

Unless you pay him?

Lol....I have a Pook modded to do just that. No not our OC.net Pook, different model.


----------



## dpawl31

Hah, I was waiting for someone to comment on that









I said that on MSN, and he almost died, so he had to put it on here lol.


----------



## The Pook

Feel the love?
<_<


----------



## dpawl31

Lawls... did you feel the love, pooky? In the mouth?







Lawls.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Lol....I have a Pook modded to do just that. No not our Overclock.net Pook, different model.


Probably the one with the 0606 BIOS.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Probably the one with the *6969* BIOS.











Aww gross Pook... (re-read the quote... lols...)


----------



## The Pook

Dunno how you swing...but you do know Kopi is a female, right?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Probably the one with the 0606 BIOS.










1978 bios, O/S is seXP pro sp6969


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Dunno how you swing...but you do know Kopi is a female, right?


Wow, then that is one ugly Kopisaurus...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


1978 bios, O/S is seXP pro sp6969










Amazing.


----------



## The Pook

Anyway. On topic:

New record on OCN with a single 7600GT?








Still reppin' the 650i. 
(Unfortunately--*gets shot*)


----------



## dpawl31

WoW. I need you to teach me the ways of 7600GT OCing








I was running ad-aware the other night, and opened ATITool and the cube was open, and the whole thing locked







And I only have a SLIGHT OC...


----------



## The Pook

Ad-aware hogs the CPU
ATITool hogs the CPU
Windows XP hogs the CPU

They don't work well together.


----------



## dpawl31

Meh, I used coolbits to OC it... and just to test, I opened ATI tool with ONLY IE7 open, and it was OK for about 5 seconds, then froze again.

Yet I never, ever, get GPU crashes or artifacts?


----------



## The Pook

ATITool uses a lot of CPU power, especially when the "3D View" thinger is open.

It's pretty normal when running other stuff...


----------



## JCushing

heres my latest efforts using 401 again, 3.26ghz, could prolly squeek it to 3.28 np.. this is with stock clocks on my video card... i can pull out a 7200 with it overclocked.... oh and my memory is at 466 mhz (933ddr)


----------



## The Pook

Not bad Pi time for a E4300.
Whats your RAM timings?
(Open up MemTest and post a screenie of it, if you can. Interested in SubTimings too.







)


----------



## DonNiger

Good bench to test your CPU/MEM/FSB.



Notice, that different versions give you a different results.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Anyway. On topic:

New record on OCN with a single 7600GT?








Still reppin' the 650i. 
(Unfortunately--*gets shot*)


Thanks pook. How are you o/cing that 7600gt; did you flash the BIOS?


----------



## dpawl31

Coolbits is what I use, ATI tool is a little irritating.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Thanks pook. How are you o/cing that 7600gt; did you flash the BIOS?


ATITool here.
I'm modding a BIOS for my 7600GT ATM, actually. My RAM OC sucks because my memory runs hot stock, so even with a vmod, I only got an extra 5Mhz telling me that it's just to hot to be OCed much right now.

Since I can't get a high clock on my 7600GT, tightening the memory timings on it while still trying to maintain a similar OC on my memory.


----------



## JCushing

pook my memory is 933mhz @ 2.18v 5-5-5-15 2t trrd = 3 trc = 20 rwr = 6 twtr = 9 tref = 1 trd = 6 trfc = 42 asy lat = 2ns

it runs better with faster speeds than lower timings from what ive found....


----------



## Ravin

Yup....there's me tearing down.....more to come on completion


----------



## Kopi

Oh **** at your HDs...damn thats alot


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Exhinilo (probably mispelled the crap outta that one...)

Your PM box is FULL, clear it out lol...


Crap, sorry bout that, on the other board I'm on we get 100, thanks for letting me know







. Oh yeah, I just rep+'ed you for all your help, thanks again.

cg


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Yup....there's me tearing down.....more to come on completion










Damn. **** load of HDD's.


----------



## xlr8

Well I should of had my MB from Newegg on Thursday but according to UPS tracking â€œTHE TRAIN HAS BROKE DOWNâ€â€¦..Dammmm!! I guess it will give
me a few more days to learnâ€¦..
One question: I read somewhere else that if you have a FSB target in mind and itâ€™s somewhat sensible you could just set your FSB to that target and keep upping the volts until you get a boot into windows. Is this not a good idea?

At what FSB does the NB start to become a limiting factor and would need more volts?


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8*


Well I should of had my MB from Newegg on Thursday but according to UPS tracking "THE TRAIN HAS BROKE DOWN"&#8230;..Dammmm!! I guess it will give
me a few more days to learn&#8230;..
One question: I read somewhere else that if you have a FSB target in mind and it's somewhat sensible you could just set your FSB to that target and keep upping the volts until you get a boot into windows. Is this not a good idea?

At what FSB does the NB start to become a limiting factor and would need more volts?


Make sure you contact newegg, they will refund your shipping









I use to work at UPS, if your package isnt on time, you get your money back.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Damn. **** load of HDD's.


lol...yea. I've been collecting them 2 at a time since 1996. First the 2*20Gb ATA133 array, then the 2*200Gb ATA100 array that killed the SMP PIII machine, and finally the 2*80Gb SATA 150 array cause the Abit I had wouldn't boot from the PCI RAID controller.


----------



## xlr8

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Murlocke*


Make sure you contact newegg, they will refund your shipping









I use to work at UPS, if your package isnt on time, you get your money back.


Great News.....I will call them on Monday........


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Yup....there's me tearing down.....more to come on completion










Dude... Eat something.









cg


----------



## Kopi

Im 137,000 im aquamark3...any bios tweaks to bump me to my goal of 140?


----------



## The Pook

Up PCI-E Freq.

Don't if you'd care if your GPU blows up or not, though.
It's not healthy for your card.


----------



## Kopi

oh GPU blow up? NP...i'll get right on that

i'll wait till i get my cooler, aim for 3500mhz and that'll do it


----------



## The Pook

It doesn't increase temps.

And it won't make it blow up...it just "hurts" it.
102-104 probably won't matter, but I wouldn't do more than 105 unless you can afford to replace it.


----------



## Pelcian

I'm running default BIOS (whatever that may be) and I was able to get the 2.4ghz e6600 up to about 2.7 before it wouldn't post. My friend (with the same mobo and cpu) got it up to 3.0 on air but for some reason mine won't even go past stock anymore. I have to keep the BIOS in default settings to get my comp to boot correctly. When I tried 3.0ghz earlier today I tried to boot and it got past the BIOS screen and a couple others before it just showed about 8 different letters/characters, forcing me to restart because the screen just stayed like that.

At default my comp runs fine though, I was worried that I tried to push it too hard but I don't really know much about overclocking. I tried both linked and unlinked in the bios but other than that the only other setting I altered was the FSB. Any ideas? Now it won't even post past default settings, I have to leave it at default to even get to windows.


----------



## The Pook

Default BIOS is usually 0202. Update.


----------



## Pelcian

I'm kind of a n00b when it comes to this stuff...if I don't have a floppy drive, how should I update the BIOS?


----------



## The Pook

P5N-E has a built in tool in the BIOS to flash your BIOS with. Put the BIOS on a floppy, USB drive, external HDD, etc, go to that tool in the BIOS (EasyFlash or something like that) and link to the BIOS, click update, and it'll check out the BIOS.


----------



## dpawl31

Not needed. Save it to the hard drive, after extracting it.

Enter BIOS, go to Asus EZFlash, find the file and update. You will probably need to clear CMOS and then flash.

Or you can download Asus Update from the website, I have had no issues it is very easy. You can run the program, backup old bios, go to options and select allow downgrade, then flash the bios to 04 series.


----------



## Pelcian

If I upgrade the BIOS will I already have a better chance at OCing it with the same things I did before?


----------



## dpawl31

Not necessarily but maybe.


----------



## xlr8

What Bios version are all "yall" (Texas) using?


----------



## dpawl31

I am on 0505, the guys with unlocked multis hate it, it locks the multi to 10x.
But I don't have that option anyway, 14multi FTW! lol.

Use the 04 bios


----------



## cholo777

hi all
this is a long thread,should be able to find someone with a similar spec to me,i have c2d e4300 and i am trying to overclock,currently using the bios 505 but its locked my multiplier to x9 - i do get to choose others but they do not save and reverts back to the x9.
also wanted to know if anyone else with the same chipset has been able to go beyond 375 fsb - seems to be a big wall there and i cant get over it,lol,i have had no luck with ram,currently on 667 with fsb on 1332=333,
whats interesting is i can get the ram up to 980mhz if i leave cpu alone and keep at stock speeds,as soon as i lowered ram speeds and timings to auto fsb could be increased,at 1333 i cant get the ram any higher than 667,
would really like to know what all e4300 experiences people have had,pity really as this ram is supposed to reach speeds of 1066,
thanks in advance for any suggestions or tips,and have a happy easter everyone.
kind regards
paul


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cholo777*


hi all
this is a long thread,should be able to find someone with a similar spec to me,i have c2d e4300 and i am trying to overclock,currently using the bios 505 but its locked my multiplier to x9 - i do get to choose others but they do not save and reverts back to the x9.
also wanted to know if anyone else with the same chipset has been able to go beyond 375 fsb - seems to be a big wall there and i cant get over it,lol,i have had no luck with ram,currently on 667 with fsb on 1332=333,
whats interesting is i can get the ram up to 980mhz if i leave cpu alone and keep at stock speeds,as soon as i lowered ram speeds and timings to auto fsb could be increased,at 1333 i cant get the ram any higher than 667,
would really like to know what all e4300 experiences people have had,pity really as this ram is supposed to reach speeds of 1066,
thanks in advance for any suggestions or tips,and have a happy easter everyone.
kind regards
paul



Just one post up mate.....Use 0401. And there's plenty of people who've gone beyond 375, and a few who've made it over 500!

Welcome to the thread!


----------



## cholo777

I Know theres a lot that have exceeded 375fsb but have they done it with E4300 thats what i would like to know,
thanks for the post m8.
regs
paul


----------



## JCushing

my 4300 maxes out just below 3.3ghz just run the ram unlinked as fast as it will go...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
.....and a few who've made it over 500!.....

:swearing:
....
*random mumbling*
.....
.....
.....


----------



## Kopi

aww pookie pie its ok...you just demand alot out of your system. I'm running 456 for whoever asked...i havn't even tried higher, so this board seems right for me


----------



## cholo777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


my 4300 maxes out just below 3.3ghz just run the ram unlinked as fast as it will go...


i am guessing you are using 9x multiplier 1460fsb=365fsb and ram running 730mhz - which would also indicate you can not exceed 375 with e4300 either,bit of a buggar really as my ram will reach speeds of 1066 but only if i leave cpu at stock speeds,i think asus still need to release a bios to address this,i personally think this is the most important fix,
lets hope they do something m8
regs
paul


----------



## JCushing

yeah man 1460 (365*9) and my ram is running unlinked at 933mhz

i tried lowering the multy and using a higher FSB but it didnt seem to like that. wouldnt post at 3.28 using the same settings that work at 3.28 at 9 multy and locks up in the bios at 3.0 (1500). needless to say i gave up on lowering the multy quickly...

anyway theres nothing wrong with 3.2-3.3ghz out of a 1.8 chip that cost 170 bux....


----------



## The Pook

Your first line says it all.
Make your RAM slower.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


aww pookie pie its ok...you just demand alot out of your system. I'm running 456 for whoever asked...i havn't even tried higher, so this board seems right for me










No, I expect a lot out of my motherboard. 3.6Ghz is nothing for an E6300.


----------



## cholo777

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCushing* 
yeah man 1460 (365*9) and my ram is running unlinked at 933mhz

i tried lowering the multy and using a higher FSB but it didnt seem to like that. wouldnt post at 3.28 using the same settings that work at 3.28 at 9 multy and locks up in the bios at 3.0 (1500). needless to say i gave up on lowering the multy quickly...

anyway theres nothing wrong with 3.2-3.3ghz out of a 1.8 chip that cost 170 bux....

i guessed well then m8.there is fsb wall on the e4300 - interested to read that you managed run ram at 933 -how did you manage that-what timings are you running and volts on all areas - cant get my corsair xms2 pc6400c3 above 667,lol, which is crazy for this ram,look forward to knowing what your settings are,thanks for post.
regs
paul


----------



## Praeses

Hey everybody. I'm new to Overclock.net! I found overclock.net when I searched for info on this particular motherboard which I'm considering on getting.

Firstly:
I have a suggestion for the origional post! What about adding a list of memory modules that work @ speeds people in this thread have achieved?

Secondly:
Does anybody know whether Patriot Signature Line DDR2 800MHz works in this motherboard? (I'm not too bothered about overclocking it though)

Thirdly:
Is it easy overclocking an E4300 to around 2.8GHz without issues and without voltage increase?

Thanks in advance









*edit* oh and does this motherboard have 2 IDE connectors?


----------



## xlr8

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


yeah man 1460 (365*9) and my ram is running unlinked at 933mhz

i tried lowering the multy and using a higher FSB but it didnt seem to like that. wouldnt post at 3.28 using the same settings that work at 3.28 at 9 multy and locks up in the bios at 3.0 (1500). needless to say i gave up on lowering the multy quickly...

anyway theres nothing wrong with 3.2-3.3ghz out of a 1.8 chip that cost 170 bux....


I sent you a PMâ€¦.Curious to know what settings youâ€™re using for your e4300..


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


Hey everybody. I'm new to Overclock.net! I found overclock.net when I searched for info on this particular motherboard which I'm considering on getting.

Firstly:
I have a suggestion for the origional post! What about adding a list of memory modules that work @ speeds people in this thread have achieved?

Secondly:
Does anybody know whether Patriot Signature Line DDR2 800MHz works in this motherboard? (I'm not too bothered about overclocking it though)

Thirdly:
Is it easy overclocking an E4300 to around 2.8GHz without issues and without voltage increase?

Thanks in advance









*edit* oh and does this motherboard have 2 IDE connectors?


1) That would be more for a memory/DDR2 thread, not a P5N-E board...But from what I heard, the only RAM that this board doesn't like are early Patriot sticks and non-Gold Edition OCZ RAM.

2) Pretty sure anything will work if you just go and buy it now.







Don't really have to worry about Patriot not working unless you have some old sticks laying around that you want to use.

3) Easy? Yes. Stock volts? Probably, but you might have to. 1.4v isn't hard on the chip even with the stock cooler, so you have nothing to worry about if you do have to.

And yep. Two IDE connectors.

(And welcome to OCN btw.







)


----------



## xlr8

Should the LDT Frequency be set to 8x?


----------



## dpawl31

Praeses, thanks for the suggestion - I think I'd rather note RAM that DOESN'T work because it is easier - OCZ Platinums and early Patriot DDR2.

Just to clarify - two IDE connecters as in two onboard, with 2 devices per channel, ie 4 devices total.

JCrushing- as pook said, lower you ram. Why run 933Mhz when you should be @ 730Mhz for 1:1?


----------



## JCushing

my exact memory timings are maybe 1-2 pages back.... i dunno why your havin problems, my memory will run unlinked at any speed it wants up to 933mhz cas5. runs just fine at 800mhz cas 4 and will even do 1t with some work (not very stable)


----------



## dpawl31

My point is why are you running it so much higher than your FSB?
That's just asking for instability.


----------



## JCushing

how do you figure it will make it unstable? it runs faster with the ram faster btw...


----------



## The Pook

The independent RAM function is flaky at best. I'm disappointed by it. Hopefully it'll be fixed by a BIOS update.

Running it an odd divider (higher or lower), your RAM still can be unstable even if it is proven stable at a normal divider or a 1:1 ratio.

Stay away from it until a better BIOS update.


----------



## JCushing

hmm, i have had some weird lockups in 1 game... works flawlessly at everything else though. its funny cause its at low speeds too that it happens. im gona switch to 1:1 and see how it goes. it sux cause my chip doesnt want to do anything when i lower the multy... wont go anywere near 3ghz..

also running the ram at 1:1 adds almost a full second to my super pi times compared to OCed......


----------



## dpawl31

Well lower multi = higher FSB to achieve same OC. So, yeah, of couse it's gonna be harder









Further you stray from 1:1 the more chances of it being unstable.
Yes, running RAM faster DOES give a slight performance boost - but only a certain amount and only to a certain point (ie 15:16 dividers are great.)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Praeses, thanks for the suggestion - I think I'd rather note RAM that DOESN'T work because it is easier - OCZ Platinums and early Patriot DDR2.


About 10 pages back this was discussed, my OCZ Platinums and afew others works, it seems there may have just been a bad batch, or the new revision 2 work fine, i haven't had any problems with my OCZ platinums even at 950mhz @ 4-4-4-12

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cholo777*


i guessed well then m8.there is fsb wall on the e4300 - interested to read that you managed run ram at 933 -how did you manage that-what timings are you running and volts on all areas - cant get my corsair xms2 pc6400c3 above 667,lol, which is crazy for this ram,look forward to knowing what your settings are,thanks for post.
regs
paul



Did you try loosening the timings a little bit? I haven't had any troubles overclocking my ram, and OCZ isn't supposed to be very good, stupid Promos chips.


----------



## Kopi

I had to RMA two platinums and get golds for it to work...my golds are just as good, running 912mhz at 4-4-4-8 stock volt


----------



## cholo777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


About 10 pages back this was discussed, my OCZ Platinums and afew others works, it seems there may have just been a bad batch, or the new revision 2 work fine, i haven't had any problems with my OCZ platinums even at 950mhz @ 4-4-4-12

Did you try loosening the timings a little bit? I haven't had any troubles overclocking my ram, and OCZ isn't supposed to be very good, stupid Promos chips.


hi m8,
in the end i set them to auto and at 667 because could not getanymore from them - tried 1440fsb 720 ram and a few more combination on the ratio 1:1 - and they have all failed -did not go above 1460 as i have found this is the limit on the e4300 which did baffle me as i only bought this cpu as everyone raved about it and said the 6300 was not as good ,i would dispute that as i have seen better overclocks with that,not to worry,really think theres an issue with ram on this mobo,why dont they release a biosupdate to address this,
hope cushing tells me what settings he is using to get 933,i thought if ratios were out it would be harder -what ratio is 1460fsb 933ram.
my timings are on auto and they are set to 5-5-5-15 1t
whats with 1t and 2t -dont understand,is 1t better.
regs
paul


----------



## Praeses

Thanks for the replies!
@ The Pook: The reason why I suggested the Ram-thing was because this motherboard has some memory issues but I guess dpawl31's idea to rather just to add memory that doesn't work is a better idea.

Too bad about the patriot sticks not working so well. Living in South Africa, I expect them to be some old stock, especially since they are the cheapest 800MHz memory available here. Any problems with Transcend JetRam?


----------



## cholo777

i tried to get the sli setup working this morning on this and not having much luck ,both cards are identical,even tried them on there own and they both work fine,serial numbers are identical.got the bridge attached but does not recognise,lol,
i have tried drivers 92.91 93.71 93.81 and nothing,i thought after they were installed there wouldbe something in nvidia control panel but there is nothing there,i feel like swearing,
what are thelatest chipset drivers for this mobo,any links would be great and if anyone has an idea about sli please help,**** **** "lol"
regs
paul


----------



## Mr Pink57

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Default BIOS is usually 0202. Update.










Latest batch are 0401

pink


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pelcian* 
I'm running default BIOS (whatever that may be) and I was able to get the 2.4ghz e6600 up to about 2.7 before it wouldn't post. My friend (with the same mobo and cpu) got it up to 3.0 on air but for some reason mine won't even go past stock anymore. I have to keep the BIOS in default settings to get my comp to boot correctly. When I tried 3.0ghz earlier today I tried to boot and it got past the BIOS screen and a couple others before it just showed about 8 different letters/characters, forcing me to restart because the screen just stayed like that.

At default my comp runs fine though, I was worried that I tried to push it too hard but I don't really know much about overclocking. I tried both linked and unlinked in the bios but other than that the only other setting I altered was the FSB. Any ideas? Now it won't even post past default settings, I have to leave it at default to even get to windows.

Surprised nobody else has mentioned it, but I see you've got OCZ Platinum's in there. I couldn't get my system stable with any kind of OC with those chips in (mine were Rev. 2's). Switched to Corsair's and I'm fine. Those particular chips don't typically work in this board, with a few exceptions. I'd return those chips if I were you.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cholo777* 
hi all
this is a long thread,should be able to find someone with a similar spec to me,i have c2d e4300 and i am trying to overclock,currently using the bios 505 but its locked my multiplier to x9 - i do get to choose others but they do not save and reverts back to the x9.
also wanted to know if anyone else with the same chipset has been able to go beyond 375 fsb - seems to be a big wall there and i cant get over it,lol,i have had no luck with ram,currently on 667 with fsb on 1332=333,
whats interesting is i can get the ram up to 980mhz if i leave cpu alone and keep at stock speeds,as soon as i lowered ram speeds and timings to auto fsb could be increased,at 1333 i cant get the ram any higher than 667,
would really like to know what all e4300 experiences people have had,pity really as this ram is supposed to reach speeds of 1066,
thanks in advance for any suggestions or tips,and have a happy easter everyone.
kind regards
paul

Have you tried upping the NB voltage? I had to go over 1.7V on the NB to get past 375. Might be a wall in the proc, but it might just be that the board chipset needs more voltage to handle that speed. Also try lowering LDT multiplier.


----------



## Kopi

Yeah its been said alot here that platinums have problems with this board, i had to switch mine up


----------



## Praeses

Does anybody know how/where I can find out whether Team Elite DDR2 800Mhz CL5 is compatible with this board?


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cholo777* 
i tried to get the sli setup working this morning on this and not having much luck ,both cards are identical,even tried them on there own and they both work fine,serial numbers are identical.got the bridge attached but does not recognise,lol,
i have tried drivers 92.91 93.71 93.81 and nothing,i thought after they were installed there wouldbe something in nvidia control panel but there is nothing there,i feel like swearing,
what are thelatest chipset drivers for this mobo,any links would be great and if anyone has an idea about sli please help,**** **** "lol"
regs
paul

I've had that problem before, its the driver's fault, if you download say, newer drivers, there should be a menu on NVcontrol panel to enable SLi. You have to test out drivers yourself, Ive been through it many times. Also, is your motherboard switched to SLi mode with the Manual switcher? Check that. Good luck!








D~
PS. Make sure you use driver cleaner


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
Does anybody know how/where I can find out whether Team Elite DDR2 800Mhz CL5 is compatible with this board?

There is no current problem that i've heard of, the only problems are OCz platinum and old partiot sticks


----------



## loyolacub68

Hey guys, has anyone else had this problem?

Right now I am running the 0202 (first release) of the bios with Vista. I have had no problems at all and was even able to do some OC'ing.

Now I want to update the bios and anytime I try to update it to any of the versions on Asus' website I can not get Vista to boot. It will either begin to load and then give me a blue screen or the system will not post. This is with all the board settings at default.

Any ideas?


----------



## The Pook

You have to clear yer CMOS before flashing.
Sometimes it works without resetting, but it takes 10 seconds, and once in a while updated BIOS' will have problems with old BIOS' that are OCed since most settings remain the same.


----------



## loyolacub68

Ok, I will try clearing the CMOS before I use the EZ flash utility in the bios. Which bios are people running, I've heard about a lot of problems with the 505. Should I just stick to the 401? Do I have to do anything after flashing the bios?


----------



## The Pook

I've ran 0505, no problems. I'm on 0401 because I heard it was so much better, but I see no difference.


----------



## loyolacub68

Ok, I'll try the 0401, hopefully this works since I'd really like to get a nice stable overclock. The 0202 version has some weird quirks.


----------



## Kopi

0505 is suppoesd to be great for vista, i'd go for that one and if you have problems back down


----------



## loyolacub68

Thats good to hear that it is supposed to be great for Vista. I thought the reason I could not load the new bios was because it was incompatible with Vista. When I get home from work I will try and clear the CMOS before running the EasyFlash utility in the bios and let you guys know how it goes.


----------



## JCushing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I've ran 0505, no problems. I'm on 0401 because I heard it was so much better, but I see no difference.



i had some weird holes in the FSB range that wouldnt post with 505 but would with 401. im not gonna say one is more or less stable than the other but add that to my list of gripes about 505 (other main one being the inability to lower the multy)

heres another random question, when i try to lower the multy on my e4300 so i can get a higher FSB with the same OC it really becomes unstable. like locks up in the bios unstable. im curently at 1.58v NB and 1.48v cpu. 1460x9 works great (365fsb) but trying to go 1500+ at 7-8 multy makes the system real unstable. maybe my 4300 just wont go over 365??? i dunno i would expect more since conroes and do 500+ fsb. would the LDT or NB voltage settings need to be tweaked?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



i dunno i would expect more since conroes and do 500+ fsb.


Certain steppings/revisions inhibit OCs too.

If you want help with an e4300 OC, hit up madmax, he pushed his over 4Ghz.
I know he had trouble with FSB etc, due to NB straps and he did some mod to get past it.


----------



## DonNiger

If you are makeing a list of nonworking rams, that case you could also add Corsair's PC5400C4 512Mb. 2 pairs didn't worked at all, one of them died. Luckily, Corsair changed thouse.
OCZ did not wanted to boot at first also, but tightening timeings and adding some volt made a miracle. Thouse sticks just do not like loose timings.


----------



## cholo777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Certain steppings/revisions inhibit OCs too.

If you want help with an e4300 OC, hit up madmax, he pushed his over 4Ghz.
I know he had trouble with FSB etc, due to NB straps and he did some mod to get past it.


hi
i wouldent mind speaking to madmax aswell,how did he manage that,he is very hard getting beyond365fsb with e4300.
i like the antec 900 aswell,i bought one,so sweet
regs
paul


----------



## dpawl31

Antec 900 FTW!








I am PMing mad max to come give a chit chat here for the e4300 guys, if he's willing


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


i had some weird holes in the FSB range that wouldnt post with 505 but would with 401. im not gonna say one is more or less stable than the other but add that to my list of gripes about 505 (other main one being the inability to lower the multy)

heres another random question, when i try to lower the multy on my e4300 so i can get a higher FSB with the same OC it really becomes unstable. like locks up in the bios unstable. im curently at 1.58v NB and 1.48v cpu. 1460x9 works great (365fsb) but trying to go 1500+ at 7-8 multy makes the system real unstable. maybe my 4300 just wont go over 365??? i dunno i would expect more since conroes and do 500+ fsb. would the LDT or NB voltage settings need to be tweaked?


Lowering multi's are always less stable.
Some chips are willing, most are not.


----------



## squazy

Hey all -

I just threw together a p5ne-sli and E6400 with a zalman cooler. Im looking to overclock it a little bit, but it has been a long time since I have dabbled with OC'ing. (Last time I messed with it was on my good ole 333celeron many moons ago









Anyway I was looking for a step by step disabling/procedure of some of the bios settings - but didnt find anything that was specific to this board (other then piecing together many posts). Any thoughts?


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Certain steppings/revisions inhibit OCs too.

If you want help with an e4300 OC, hit up madmax, he pushed his over 4Ghz.
I know he had trouble with FSB etc, due to NB straps and he did some mod to get past it.

yeah if you connect 2 pins you get the 4300 to default to 1066 fsb...

its not like im not happy with my current OC, i just wouldnt mind upping the FSB to make my ram faster thats all. if the chip will not be stable at a lower multy i guess ill have to live with were i am now...


----------



## MADMAX22

hey guys i jsut wanted to direct you too the thread i made when i did my mod on my 4300 but i dont know if itll work with this mobo, i am not sure if anyone has tried with this guy so feel free to give it a whirl

its really easy and really easy to get rid of if it dont work, i had mine on phase when i did it but dont see any reason why people shouldnt hit 390 400 fsb with there cpu's if it happens to work

this thread


----------



## dpawl31

Thanks Max!
Go nuts e4300 guys!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squazy* 
Hey all -

I just threw together a p5ne-sli and E6400 with a zalman cooler. Im looking to overclock it a little bit, but it has been a long time since I have dabbled with OC'ing. (Last time I messed with it was on my good ole 333celeron many moons ago









Anyway I was looking for a step by step disabling/procedure of some of the bios settings - but didnt find anything that was specific to this board (other then piecing together many posts). Any thoughts?

There's a disabling guide here. It also mentions you may have to up NB voltage to >1.5V at 375 FSB. In order to be stable at 400 (and I think even below) I had to go over 1.7V on the NB. Other than that, no trouble getting 3.2GHz with an e6400.


----------



## Kopi

Pooks on to a MAJOR breakthrough for this board, he's tweaking but he wanted me to give you guys the heads up...hes orthosed at 475fsb and going more. GO POOKIE


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Pooks on to a MAJOR breakthrough for this board, he's tweaking but he wanted me to give you guys the heads up...hes orthosed at 475fsb and going more. GO POOKIE


Great job Pook!


----------



## Kopi

I have P5N-e SLi thread sense...for no reason at all i'll log on to OCn and p5n thred wll be in top 10. About 15 times its happend

woooo scary


----------



## dpawl31

I am guessing his modded BIOS?







Awesome. Can't wait to hear.


----------



## The Pook

No.

Got my self (Bench) stable at 485+ FSB. The reason I couldn't before seems a lot like what happened on the OLD Socket A DFI boards if anyone remembers.

I'll explain in a bit.


----------



## dpawl31

Great job Pook.
The multi on the 6300 is 7x right?

I think after the 22nd I will try and get an e6420 4MBL2 (8x multi)
My goal would be 500FSB for 4Ghz.


----------



## The Pook

Cache size kills OCs.

With that said.
In short: Voltage for the motherboard is unstable as hell. Either it gives priority to the RAM, or it just hates the NB or SB. It'll give you whatever volts you want, it'll just take it from the NB/SB too. (Sounds more like the SB than the NB.)

I lowered my volts of my RAM and I could bench at 1930 vs 1863. Put volts back up, NB hated me. Volts read lower. Lowering voltage on my CPU helped too, but, as you can imagine, lowering volts isn't always plausible when OCing.

Yeah. Sucks.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Cache size kills OCs.


With double the cache I should get better benchmark scores with a lesser core speed though, so I can take that.

Sucks about the board doing that to you. 
So you ARE stable @ 485?


----------



## The Pook

Stable? No. Benchable? Yes.

And it kills OCs, as in, I'd be VERY surprised if the average OC of them would be more than in the high 2Ghz range. (Both the E6320 and E6420). More cache that can "fail" during OCing. Cache is only equal to 200Mhz of speed, after that, speed takes over the extra cache. A 3.2Ghz E6300 would dominate a 2.8Ghz E6420.


----------



## dpawl31

Wow, that's just not right at all! 
So you are saying screw the 20's and just get a straight 6400?


----------



## The Pook

Screw 'em? No. You might get a chip where the cache DOESN'T fail early. But you probably will. Ever wonder why the E6600/E6700 crowd is usually done at about 3.7Ghz, even with the HUGE multi advantage?









Wait and see. I'm just saying what I think will happen, I could be totally wrong. Make sure of your mobos max FSB too - don't get an E6300 if you can only do 450FSB, but don't get a E6400 if you can do 9304009FSB.


----------



## dpawl31

I can't get my max FSB- I have a 14 multi LOL.


----------



## The Pook

Take a saw to some of the pins. Sure to knock off some multi's....possibly.


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Take a saw to some of the pins. Sure to knock off some multi's....possibly.










jezzus!!

dat s0m [email protected] sh1zn1tz!!
I bent the pins on my asroc mobo, straitened them out with a knife, and thankfully they still worked. but I guess If you know what you're doing, there's no limit to OC potential!!


----------



## Nevaziah

WARNING TO ALL P5NE-SLI OWNERZ:

VOLTAGE - if you're getting weird temps at low clocks etc...
AT STOCK, THE VOLTAGE CAME AT 1.38V ON MY P5NE-SLI AND MY TEMPS WERE HITTING 65 DEGREES UNDER LOAD.
GO INTO THE JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION OPTIONS, LOWER YOUR VOLTAGE TO 1.20 AND SET THE "VARIANCE" TO 100 MV. THE VOLTAGE WILL EVEN OUT AT 1.20V-1.28V AND YOUR TEMPS WILL GO AS LOW AS 50 UNDER LOAD!!!!

sorry for the caps, i just had to do it. It can significantly lower your cpu's life expectancy. ANd I thought it was my TTBT's fault....


----------



## Kopi

500fsb is a feat on this board apparently. I've seen them do it though. Pooks on to something htere *cough $35 psu cough*

I can't wait for my cooler, should be here within the week and i'll have some Kopi benches up.

3500 would be nice, 3400 realistically, and 3200 24/7


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
500fsb is a feat on this board apparently. I've seen them do it though. Pooks on to something htere *cough $35 psu cough*

I can't wait for my cooler, should be here within the week and i'll have some Kopi benches up.

3500 would be nice, 3400 realistically, and 3200 24/7

Heck, as long as volts remain under 1.25 for me, I would run it at 10GHZ if it allowed me. Imagine the global warming then, when we all run our C2Ds and Q2D at 10 GHZ


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nevaziah* 
WARNING TO ALL P5NE-SLI OWNERZ:

VOLTAGE - if you're getting weird temps at low clocks etc...
AT STOCK, THE VOLTAGE CAME AT 1.3V ON MY P5NE-SLI AND MY TEMPS WERE HITTING 65 DEGREES UNDER LOAD.
GO INTO THE JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION OPTIONS, LOWER YOUR VOLTAGE TO 1.20 AND SET THE "VARIANCE" TO 100 MV. THE VOLTAGE WILL EVEN OUT AT 1.20V AND YOUR TEMPS WILL GO AS LOW AS 50 UNDER LOAD!!!!

sorry for the caps, i just had to do it. It can significantly lower your cpu's life expectancy. ANd I thought it was my TTBT's fault....









Temps are relative to
1) Ambient
2) Case Cooling
3) Thermal Meterial
4) Voltage

The statement you just made, Nev, is not true.
First, Auto vcore will be different with each different CPU chip.
Second, 1.3v in BIOS and 1.2v in BIOS w/ +100mv is the same thing.
I have yet to see any







of that +100mv option reducing vcore.
Most likely all it does is add that 0.1v.
It is helpful in the circumstance that you reach 1.6v vcore and need MORE, then you drop to 1.52v or whatever and add +100mv, then you will be at 1.62v before droop.

To explain the temp/vcore in simpler terms: I have a chip that runs two 90nm Pentium 4's. I am running nearly a 1Ghz OC (2.8-->3.7) at 1.4v vcore.
Due to my case, the internal cooling, & my interface material, I am running 47C MAX load @ 72F ambient temps.

Quote:

It can significantly lower your cpu's life expectancy
As far as this goes, nobody can prove how long a CPU will live, or what temps do to them.
BUT, average CPU is good for over 10 years, and nobody uses them that long.
The best guess is higher voltage shaves a couple months off.
Think of all the old Nintendo (NES) systems still running. Those are OLD, and ran HOT.
They are still alive today







Well, mine isn't. LoL
*Blows in game cartridge, damnit!!! Work!*


----------



## Nevaziah

*sigh.. that's not my point.

The point is when I got the board, at stock it ran 1.3 V AND the plus or minus 0.100V. which means, when it would load, my board probly juiced it up at 1.4V, which i verified with asus probe, it was at 1.38V load.

So, I lowered the base voltage to 1.20. Now, with that plus or minus 0.100V, it runs between 1.10(never happens) and 1.28V (which im happy with).

How can you tell me that does not make a difference. The plus or minus 0.100 volts cant be disabled. I have the choice of that or AUTO and god knows how much vcore it will add when i choose auto









EDIT: i have figured out a long time ago that most of the time, for my motherboards, AUTO = maximum possible...


----------



## TriBeCa

Nevaziah, either you've got very different BIOS options than me, or you're confused.

There are two settings that relate to vcore. One is the vcore setting, and the other is +100mV.

Stock setting is vcore = [Auto] and +100mV = [disabled]. 
What you seem to be saying is that the auto voltage was higher than you liked, so you turned it down.

But what is this about the "plus or minus 0.100V can't be disabled." First of all, there's no plus or minus setting--it's just plus. It adds 100mV of vcore to whatever you vcore is set at (and is rumored to reduce vdroop). Any 'minus' you're getting from your voltage setting under load is just vdroop, which happens when any electrical system works harder (more amps equals less volts given a constant wattage).

So what dpawl is saying is it sounded like, from your description, you turned vcore down from 1.3 to 1.2 and then turned on +100mV, which should yield the same voltage. Hence, it shouldn't make a difference.


----------



## JCushing

the auto voltage setting work pretty good on this board. @ 2.7ghz my voltage fluctuates between 1.18v-1.3v depending on load. it will go up to 1.4v in auto but no higher when i have a higher OC say like 3ghz...

and yeah the +100mv setting simply adds .1v. i dont know why this is hard to understand, if its on and you have say 1.3v selected for vcore, your going to get 1.4v. thats the way its supposed to work and of course it will be hotter.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Nevaziah, either you've got very different BIOS options than me, or you're confused.

There are two settings that relate to vcore. One is the vcore setting, and the other is +100mV.

Stock setting is vcore = [Auto] and +100mV = [disabled]. 
What you seem to be saying is that the auto voltage was higher than you liked, so you turned it down.

But what is this about the "plus or minus 0.100V can't be disabled." First of all, there's no plus or minus setting--it's just plus. It adds 100mV of vcore to whatever you vcore is set at (and is rumored to reduce vdroop). Any 'minus' you're getting from your voltage setting under load is just vdroop, which happens when any electrical system works harder (more amps equals less volts given a constant wattage).

So what dpawl is saying is it sounded like, from your description, you turned vcore down from 1.3 to 1.2 and then turned on +100mV, which should yield the same voltage. Hence, it shouldn't make a difference.










Good explanation







REP+


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


the auto voltage setting work pretty good on this board. @ 2.7ghz my voltage fluctuates between 1.18v-1.3v depending on load. it will go up to 1.4v in auto but no higher when i have a higher OC say like 3ghz...


this is exactly what i mean. exept load or not, my motherboard would ACTUALLY RUN the voltage ALWAYS at 1.38 (1.40 volts).
SO i too off auto, set it to 1.20V, then added the +100mv. which now it runs at 1.28 NOT 1.38

EDIT:

ACK, I JUST NOTICED TYPO IN MY FIRST POST IN RED!! CORRECTED!!!


----------



## JCushing

why not just put them both on auto.... for anything shy of 3.2ghz thats what i do


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


this is exactly what i mean. exept load or not, my motherboard would ACTUALLY RUN the voltage ALWAYS at 1.38 (1.40 volts).
SO i too off auto, set it to 1.20V, then added the +100mv. which now it runs at 1.28 NOT 1.38



vcore does not get "boosted" under load.

AUTO vcore and AUTO +100mv gives you REAL high vcore, in your case.

1.2v vcore and AUTO +100mv will run 1.3v (1.28)
1.2v vcore and DISABLED +100mv will run 1.2v (droop to 1.18)

If you need post-droop of 1.28v, use 1.3v vcore and disable +100mv.

+100mv is really more of a distraction than anything.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


why not just put them both on auto.... for anything shy of 3.2ghz thats what i do


I like to run the lowest voltages I can, for better temps.
So I orthos'd @ 1.4v droop to nearly 1.23v at some times








But it ran for 21 hours, so I'd call that stable!









Then again, I am running lower vcore @3.7Ghz than some of you C2D guys running at 3Ghz... go figure.


----------



## JCushing

ya i have c1e and speedstep on so the voltage drops alot when the cpu is idle... i see 1.12v-1.3v normally with everything on auto.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I like to run the lowest voltages I can, for better temps.
So I orthos'd @ 1.4v droop to nearly 1.23v at some times








But it ran for 21 hours, so I'd call that stable!









Then again, I am running lower vcore @3.7Ghz than some of you C2D guys running at 3Ghz... go figure.


That's some pretty hefty vdroop....

I think you should test the +100mV option and see if it improves it. Mine is set to 1.36+100mV (1.46) and I never vdroop below 1.38. That's a 5.5% drop, whereas you're seeing more than a 9% drop. Give it a go, then we'll know for sure if the +100mV setting is good for anything


----------



## TriBeCa

Oh, and I think a likely explanation for your relatively low vcore for your clock speed is that your FSB is actually way lower than most of ours (e.g. mine is 50% faster) ;p


----------



## Nevaziah

Well, i managed to hit 2.7GHZ at 1.28V, should be ez then to hit 3.5 soon. I will keep y'all notified once I arrive home


----------



## JCushing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Oh, and I think a likely explanation for your relatively low vcore for your clock speed is that your FSB is actually way lower than most of ours (e.g. mine is 50% faster) ;p



yes BUT you can go higher on stock volts than i can


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


That's some pretty hefty vdroop....

I think you should test the +100mV option and see if it improves it. Mine is set to 1.36+100mV (1.46) and I never vdroop below 1.38. That's a 5.5% drop, whereas you're seeing more than a 9% drop. Give it a go, then we'll know for sure if the +100mV setting is good for anything











I'll test that theory right now - but keep in mind I have a much more power hungry chip - two P4s 90nm...

BRB!









*EDIT* Is that 1.46 to 1.38 droop under full load?


----------



## dpawl31

Testing done...

1.4v; 100mv AUTO = 1.34v Idle, 1.25v 15SEC Orthos LOAD
1.3v; 100mv ON = 1.34v Idle, 1.25v 15SEC Orthos LOAD

So, it is absolutely the same...

Something I have noticed- 0505 options for +100mv are
AUTO or +100mv. 
Didn't older BIOS revision offer DISABLED or +100mv?


----------



## Nevaziah

See, THATS the problem with me too, I have 0505 and no option to disable the +100MV


----------



## dpawl31

AUTO should be OFF, technically, as it is in my case.


----------



## TriBeCa

Yup, older BIOS was [disabled] or [+100mV].

And yes, that 1.38 (actually, 1.378) is under full orthos load--I never saw it lower than that in 8 hours of testing. In fact, at slightly lower (6.25-12.5 mV) vcore settings i was getting vdroop down to 1.36...and I was getting orthos errors after a few hours. Once i prevented it from vdrooping below 1.378 I was rock-solid.

So now that we know it's not the +100mV setting...maybe your PSU?


----------



## dpawl31

I think I just need to blame my power hungry chip, PLUS the fact that my core speed is really high.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


WARNING TO ALL P5NE-SLI OWNERZ:

VOLTAGE - if you're getting weird temps at low clocks etc...
AT STOCK, THE VOLTAGE CAME AT 1.38V ON MY P5NE-SLI AND MY TEMPS WERE HITTING 65 DEGREES UNDER LOAD.
GO INTO THE JUMPERFREE CONFIGURATION OPTIONS, LOWER YOUR VOLTAGE TO 1.20 AND SET THE "VARIANCE" TO 100 MV. THE VOLTAGE WILL EVEN OUT AT 1.20V-1.28V AND YOUR TEMPS WILL GO AS LOW AS 50 UNDER LOAD!!!!

sorry for the caps, i just had to do it. It can significantly lower your cpu's life expectancy. ANd I thought it was my TTBT's fault....










65C for a C2D is nothing. The temp sensor is in a different spot. 65C for a C2D is like 50C for an A64.

1.38v is nothing for a C2D either. Voltage will not harm your C2D until 1.5v +


----------



## JCushing

hey i was just reading the anandtech article about the new evga 650 ultra MB and i noticed they were using the Nvidia control panel to adjust memory timings, fsb speeds etc in windows... any of you guys played around with it? its called ntune and its avalible on nvidias site.

anyway heres the article http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2964&p=3

maybe im just slow and didnt know about this before?


----------



## The Pook

You need SLI certified RAM IIRC.


----------



## JCushing

yeah ok i touched the fsb slider 1 notch down and my system locked up... hmmm

and orthos just rebooted my computer on me







looks like 3.33 wont be stable... but im optimistic for 3.3


----------



## DonNiger

I have used NTune to find out mem timings. I think it is good. But the CPU/FPU tuning sucks.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


yeah ok i touched the fsb slider 1 notch down and my system locked up... hmmm

and orthos just rebooted my computer on me







looks like 3.33 wont be stable... but im optimistic for 3.3


NTune Slider? Screw that!
BIOS FTW...


----------



## JCushing

k im about to buy a new NB cooler... between the TT extreme spirit cl-c0034 and the thermalright hr-05-sli. i would just get the hr-05 but im not sure if it will fit. i saw some pics on pg 74 of one on there but its awfull close to the vid card slot. i would get the regular hr-05, im pretty sure that would fit but its not in stock at newegg.

any input?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109131 hr-05
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018 cl-c0034


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I think I just need to blame my power hungry chip, PLUS the fact that my core speed is really high.


It's exactly your problem. I have the same, even clocked at 3.2GHz, I see about a 8% droop. It's those 90nm cores- there is just too much current leakage across the transistors.


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


NTune Slider? Screw that!
BIOS FTW...


L0ng l1vz b10z!!!

I got to 3.41GHZ at 1850MHZ, 7X multi but i cannot go any higher. my post screen locks at the begining. Is it the mobo that cannot keep up?
by the way, how is that 1850MHZ converted to the actual fsb of 488MHZ?

I will try lowering the multi to 6 then go for 2000. if it works, i will up my vcore to 1.41v and try to at least hit 100% OC (3.7GHZ)

wish me luckz!


----------



## JCushing

well i didnt like how close the hr-05 got to the vid card and mounting mechanism so i ordered the TT cl-c0034.... ill let ya know how it goes. hopefully ill gain some stability and more speed...


----------



## The Pook

The HR-05 SLI does fit. The HR-05 doesn't. 
The CL-C0034 isn't _much_ better than stock.


----------



## xlr8

I got the Noctua NC-U6 for both NB and SB,,,maybe overkill for SB..


----------



## xlr8

Just got my new rig set up with xp installed all drivers + updates..I tried to run Prime-95,,OCCT, Orthos,
I get "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.49609375, expected less than 0.4" in the first minute on all.
Does anbody know whats up with this? I am running all stock settings and Bios #505


----------



## The Pook

Unstable.


----------



## xlr8

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Unstable.

Any idea why?


----------



## JCushing

ive seen the hr-05 installed on the MB but it sits right up against the vid card.. also the retaining mechanism looks sub par for a HS of its size considering the weight of the HS being offset to one side.

infortunatly it will be hard to tell (in terms of raw temp drops) other than max FSB speeds if it works better or not cinsidering the MB sensor is a combo of the NB and SB temps. my SB is always cool to the touch with my zalman nb47j and AS5 and my NB is always freakin hot to the touch even with a fan blowin on it.

heres MR pinks pic of the hr-05 sli installed http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...m/IMG_0497.JPG


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xlr8* 
Any idea why?

what are your settings, fsb voltages, memory timings? give us something to work with here....


----------



## TriBeCa

He said he's running all stock settings with BIOS 05xx.

If it were me, I'd start by running a full memtest, then I'd try manually setting my RAM timings to stock. then i'd try flashing to an earlier bios.


----------



## TriBeCa

Pook, what's the deal with your OC? I take it you discovered you were able to get to higher FSB's by reducing vdimm, or something??

Details please!


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Pook, what's the deal with your OC? I take it you discovered you were able to get to higher FSB's by reducing vdimm, or something??

Details please!


I never used to be able to do past 465 without BSoD's. Above 465 still isn't stable with less vDimm, but it is benchmark stable.

But what the hell can do you with 1.9v, 5-5-5-15 @ DDR2-970? 4-3-3-6 @ DDR2-945 beats that with lower FSB, so it really doesn't help much unless you have some handicapped ass RAM that likes low volts.


----------



## TriBeCa

mod the board!

actually, what i'm really wondering is if you think it's possible that if i dropped my vdimm some i'd be able to get stable under 1.7V on the NB (I'm hoping you remember my inability to be stable at 400 FSB below 1.7 on the NB).


----------



## JCushing

so pook, theres not much ram out there that will do much on 1.9v.. so yeah its a mixed blessing.

one of the other review sites was mentioning FSB "holes" (ive found a few of these at random spots in the 270-290 range) in the area of 400-450fsb... you see anything like this pook? as in even with the extra mhz the machine is no faster in benchmarks

oh btw for the E4300 people my machine was running at 3.3ghz, stable for about 5 hours but it started erroring (i dunno why it was at 2am... i wasnt using speedfan at the time to log) 1.487v cpu (droop to 1.40 under load, maybe thats my problem?) 2.08vdimm 1.5vnb 1467fsb with memory synched... 3.33 (1480fsb) wih the same settings is usable and benchmarkable but caused a reboot within 20 min of orthos...

im able to post up to 1500, 1510 no dice, even with the multy dropped down to 8. i tried raising the cpu voltage to over 1.5, rasing the nb voltage to 1.7, lowering and raising the ldt freq, lowering and raising the pcie freq, lowering the memory voltage... nuthin, no post. maybe its a strap? i dunno but i also tried increments of 25 up to over 1600 wich i think is certainly past the ceiling of this cpu. the thing is though it doesnt help if i lower the multy making me thing its the MB holding me back.

im hoping the better NB cooler will bring some stability to my rig.... maybe allow me to run a higher FSB and lower multy....


----------



## xlr8

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


so pook, theres not much ram out there that will do much on 1.9v.. so yeah its a mixed blessing.

one of the other review sites was mentioning FSB "holes" (ive found a few of these at random spots in the 270-290 range) in the area of 400-450fsb... you see anything like this pook? as in even with the extra mhz the machine is no faster in benchmarks

oh btw for the E4300 people my machine was running at 3.3ghz, stable for about 5 hours but it started erroring (i dunno why it was at 2am... i wasnt using speedfan at the time to log) 1.487v cpu (droop to 1.40 under load, maybe thats my problem?) 2.08vdimm 1.5vnb 1467fsb with memory synched... 3.33 (1480fsb) wih the same settings is usable and benchmarkable but caused a reboot within 20 min of orthos...

im able to post up to 1500, 1510 no dice, even with the multy dropped down to 8. i tried raising the cpu voltage to over 1.5, rasing the nb voltage to 1.7, lowering and raising the ldt freq, lowering and raising the pcie freq, lowering the memory voltage... nuthin, no post. maybe its a strap? i dunno but i also tried increments of 25 up to over 1600 wich i think is certainly past the ceiling of this cpu. the thing is though it doesnt help if i lower the multy making me thing its the MB holding me back.

im hoping the better NB cooler will bring some stability to my rig.... maybe allow me to run a higher FSB and lower multy....


Have you considered doing Madmax22 e4300 mod? I am thinking of trying it just to see if I might get better results than you are getting. I am not for sure but I think I read somewhere that the mod only works on MB that support 1333fsb...if so i guess it would only work with Bios 0505... 
I live real close to a "Frys" and they have circuit-board pens that should work I am getting a little discouraged in getting the e4300 after reading your post. I assumed by all the reviews it was going to be a great to OC but it seems its not going to be as great as I thought....


----------



## JCushing

discouraged? its a 170$ chip that overclocks 1.5ghz over stock and i havent gotten over 50c yet using a 17dollar HSF... i fail to see how this chip is a disapointment. personally i still belive its the MB limmiting me currently, well find out i guess. what reviews were you refering to? all the ones i saw got between 3.2-3.4 max and thats where im at.

and no i do not plan on doing the pin mod at this time.

honestly im happy with 3ghz, i use 2.7 as my 24/7 OC and im just pushing things just because i can to see how far i can go.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCushing* 
so pook, theres not much ram out there that will do much on 1.9v.. so yeah its a mixed blessing.

one of the other review sites was mentioning FSB "holes" (ive found a few of these at random spots in the 270-290 range) in the area of 400-450fsb... you see anything like this pook? as in even with the extra mhz the machine is no faster in benchmarks

oh btw for the E4300 people my machine was running at 3.3ghz, stable for about 5 hours but it started erroring (i dunno why it was at 2am... i wasnt using speedfan at the time to log) 1.487v cpu (droop to 1.40 under load, maybe thats my problem?) 2.08vdimm 1.5vnb 1467fsb with memory synched... 3.33 (1480fsb) wih the same settings is usable and benchmarkable but caused a reboot within 20 min of orthos...

im able to post up to 1500, 1510 no dice, even with the multy dropped down to 8. i tried raising the cpu voltage to over 1.5, rasing the nb voltage to 1.7, lowering and raising the ldt freq, lowering and raising the pcie freq, lowering the memory voltage... nuthin, no post. maybe its a strap? i dunno but i also tried increments of 25 up to over 1600 wich i think is certainly past the ceiling of this cpu. the thing is though it doesnt help if i lower the multy making me thing its the MB holding me back.

im hoping the better NB cooler will bring some stability to my rig.... maybe allow me to run a higher FSB and lower multy....

The reason it benches lower in benchmarks is because I have to run my RAM at very loose timings because of low volts, so the extra 20FSB I get doesn't help since my RAM is holding everything up. No "FSB" holes.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
mod the board!

actually, what i'm really wondering is if you think it's possible that if i dropped my vdimm some i'd be able to get stable under 1.7V on the NB (I'm hoping you remember my inability to be stable at 400 FSB below 1.7 on the NB).


Modding may be the way to go. It sounds like the caps may be don't store enough charge to deal with the increased need for capacatance with the increased voltage demands from the chips.

You any good with a soldering gun Pook?


----------



## The Pook

Sure.

But I'm not doing anything to it. I'm done with his board in about a month. Nothing but problems. ._.


----------



## xlr8

Depression has set in...I ran memtest from CD on my new rig it got 8 errors..
I am new to OC and to memtest. Is this test the tell all of your Ram? Does
this mean RMA fo-sure?

Also,, I ran this test all day and when it was over; I booted into windows to
check temps I was at 42F cpu and 48F MB... Does this seem to be to much?
After 5min cpu did drop to 39C idle...


----------



## The Pook

If MemTest = errors, then its your RAM.

Anywho...
Still reppin' the 650i with 7600GT 3DMark05 OCN record...


----------



## The Pook

Broke again...


----------



## xlr8

POOK.....What are your temps with your OC?

What do you use to check Vcore? I use Asus PC-prob 2 but I don't know if its right. I set my Vcore to 1.3500 and PC-Prob says 1.41 volts?


----------



## The Pook

Keep in mind I'm using a very crappy thermal paste (Mascool...has the consistency of water) and I used too much...my cooler doesn't even get warm because the heat can't get to it cause the thermal paste sucks. Getting AS5 sometime next week...

Idle:








(Meant to open a memory tab, but, uh, yeah. Didn't work out that well.)

Load:








(Temps are already high enough idle that only about 2-3 minutes in, temps are as hot as they are gunna go...thanks Mascool







And I get massive vDroop with this board under load, either that or my PSU, but from what I know about this board, I'm pretty sure it's the board.)


----------



## xlr8

Pook... What do you have your Vcore set in Bios? Something must be wrong with what I'm getting for Vcore. I have seen no drop in Vcore....
I have an increase in volts.. I have mine at 1.3500 in Bios my Vcor reads (Asus) 1.41.. I do have Vcore offset set to +100. I wonder if that is causing my higher vcore reads??? I wish I new where to check Vcor directly from the MB with Voltmeter....


----------



## xlr8

Nevermind....I just changed the Vcore offset to Auto and My Vcor now reads
like it should.....


----------



## The Pook

+100mv is only useful is high voltages. In low voltages it will add more volts that what you specified.


----------



## JCushing

well i got my new NB cooler installed... kinda disapointed in the mounting, in order for it to blow toards the back of the case i basically have to have it blowing on the cpu cooler. no biggie since my cpu temps are way low, its just the principle.... anyway its tough to tell because theres no NB only temp but my "MB" temps do seem slightly lower....

havent tried more overclocking though


----------



## Kopi

According to pook (and i havn't seen proof of this) your MB temps IS your NB temp


----------



## The Pook

Er, I said many times in the thread that is is the mean between your SB and NB.
(And it is.)

Put a fan on your SB and don't change anything else. Temps go down for the "MB" - not just the NB.


----------



## JCushing

right i understood that...

seems i certainly hit the max fsb of my chip... wont go any higher any multiplier any setting.... absolutely will not post above 1500 (375fsb). cant seem to get it orthos stable at 3.3 either 367x9... errors out after 2 hours seemingly regardless of my settings... everything runs good at this setting, its just orthos.

but its ok it was pretty stable at 3.28 (360*9) im just gonna check it again. now i just have to accept ill never run my ram over 720ddr with this cpu







so ill work on lowering my timings... 1t with my ram was sketchy at 800 but maybe it will like 720....


----------



## Kopi

375? No way...somethings up with that. Must be somethign up with either ram or CPU there...


----------



## JCushing

yeah its the cpu dude... my memory will run up to 933mhz... its pretty common for allendales to die just short of 400fsb....


----------



## Kopi

Oh ok..i knew it wasn't the baord. Thats still a nice OC on that chip, cant complain iwth 3.33ghz!

Here's a little something you might want to add in the first/second post or something...

Here are a bunch of links to how many FSB my board pulls off in various reviews. My XP-90 mounting kit ships out tomorrow...yayayaya! I'll have my FSB posted up aswell

462fsb on xeon
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=126791

470fsb on e6300
http://techreport.com/reviews/2007q1.../index.x?pg=16

489fsb on x6800
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...5ne-sli_7.html

483 on e6600
http://www.hothardware.com/articles/...0i_SLI/?page=4

502fsb
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=3

495fsb
http://techgage.com/article/asus_p5n-e_sli/6

500fsb
http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/articl...50aHVzaWFzdA==

470fsb
http://techreport.com/reviews/2007q1.../index.x?pg=16

465fsb
pookie pie

490fsb
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...5ne-sli_7.html

406fsb (gotta be a joke)
http://aphnetworks.com/reviews/asus_p5n_e_sli/11

Lots of near 500 numbers


----------



## JCushing

well 3.285 is goin pretty good. 3.3 errors out at 1.5 hours and im almost at 2.5 so id say its goin ok... temps are decent, max so far is 58c core but the CPU temp never goes above 42, dunno why there such a huge difference in core and cpu temps. anyway enjoy


----------



## Kopi

What do you mean core is 58 and cpu is 42? Core IS cpu.


----------



## JCushing

asus pc probe lists the cpu temp at 42, even when speedfan has core 1 and 2 at 58

in speedfan the temp1 listing is the same as the pc probe cpu temp


----------



## Kopi

Thats weird...i would go by core temp, thats what really matters


----------



## The Pook

Asus Probe is reading wrong. False sensor.


----------



## JCushing

yeah well that makes me question the "mb" sensor too









i shut it off at 2 hours 35 min so i can play some games.. i think it will go through the night. im gonna say the new TT NB cooler is better at heavy loads dissapating the heat, too bad it doesnt help my OC


----------



## Thrice

This is the about the highest FBS I've gotten on my E6600 on x9 multi (i hit 445 but i didn't cpu-z it.)

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=187145


----------



## Kopi

That screen is a little small but i did the math myself. Thats an impressive overclock...especially on that cooler...crazy temps.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Asus Probe is reading wrong. False sensor.



It is not wrong. C2D gives you 3 readings. There are 1 temp for each core (TJunction) which are about 15c higher than the last reading (Tcase). The last sensor is located between two cores. And that the temp you see useing Probe or looking at it in Bios. 
Ofcorse, there is always an option, that thouse readings are incorrect.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


It is not wrong. C2D gives you 3 readings. There are 1 temp for each core (TJunction) which are about 15c higher than the last reading (Tcase). The last sensor is located between two cores. And that the temp you see useing Probe or looking at it in Bios. 
Ofcorse, there is always an option, that thouse readings are incorrect.


Exactly. That is not your CPU temp.


----------



## Nevaziah

It was weird. at some point i had core 1 and 2 at 75 degrees in speedfan, but temp1 was around 60. you have no idea how quickly I flipped. but this reasures me...


----------



## Kopi

I dont care how hot it is between my two cores. Thats not even CPU temp lol....its "inside the CPU between the core" temp. I'll stick with coretemp to find my temps.


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I dont care how hot it is between my two cores. Thats not even CPU temp lol....its "inside the CPU between the core" temp. I'll stick with coretemp to find my temps.


that's weird. so core 2 duos temp sensors are IN the chips, between the cores? whereas lets say, the Pentium D's temps sensors are...?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


that's weird. so core 2 duos temp sensors are IN the chips, between the cores? whereas lets say, the Pentium D's temps sensors are...?


At the geometric center of the die...

http://download.intel.com/design/Pen...s/30255304.pdf


----------



## Kopi

Have we said all that need be said? 1 day with no posting? Whats goinig on!?!?!?

My LGA775 bracket FINALLY shipped out yesterday...should be here on frday and i'll have some benches for you guys


----------



## Nevaziah

the xp-90 didnt come ready for LGA775? wow.
Any waz, cant' wait to see if ur chip can beat my 3.45GHZ


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah, I am still alive O_O

Everyone's saying OCN was down for a day - was more like almost 3 for me?

I even tried it on my cellphone to rule out my PC/Internet... no go. For 2 1/2 days.

Wow, what'ev! I'm back.

This whole temp thing is driving me nuts, I have been told so many different things over the past few months, I really need to narrow it all down.

Maybe I'll email a tech @ Intel, break it down chip-by-chip and write up a FAQ


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nevaziah* 
the xp-90 didnt come ready for LGA775? wow.
Any waz, cant' wait to see if ur chip can beat my 3.45GHZ









It was out pre-LGA775.


----------



## TuxeyM

Hey guys,it is my first time overclocking EVER, and I love the p5n-e,but I need some help...

I can't seem to get my Pentium D 820(Smithfield) to stabilize @3.3. I have tried almost everything but I need some help...

Setup:
Pentium D 820 (stock is 2.8) but trying 3.3
P5n-E SlI
G Skill 2gb DDR2 800 @ 5-5-5-15
Vcore: 1.22 I think
Mem Voltage upped from 1.9 to 2.03
1:1 @ 920MHZ

I am thinking it is either the memory timing or the vcore...

Any suggestions?

I am veryconfused by how mem timings work.


----------



## dpawl31

UP THE VOLTAGE









Your vcore is 1.22v in BIOS correct?

Was 3.5 Stable @ 1.3v, and 3.7 stable @ 1.4v

That's too low. Default voltage is not supposed to drop below 1.25v and if you orthos 1.22 ... trouble!

Please go to USER Control Panel, EDIT SYSTEM and enter everything you can.

Welcome to OCN, and thanks for making your first post in the best thread on OCN!


----------



## dpawl31

Woah woah... missed this:

Quote:

1:1 @ 920MHZ
That's not right at all.

1:1 would be 236Mhz (OR DDR2-472)
FSB @ 236 gives you just over 3.3Ghz which is what I am assuming.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TuxeyM* 
Hey guys,it is my first time overclocking EVER, and I love the p5n-e,but I need some help...

I can't seem to get my Pentium D 820(Smithfield) to stabilize @3.3. I have tried almost everything but I need some help...

Setup:
Pentium D 820 (stock is 2.8) but trying 3.3
P5n-E SlI
G Skill 2gb DDR2 800 @ 5-5-5-15
Vcore: 1.22 I think
Mem Voltage upped from 1.9 to 2.03
1:1 @ 920MHZ

I am thinking it is either the memory timing or the vcore...

Any suggestions?

I am veryconfused by how mem timings work.

As DPawl stated, increase your Vcore voltage. 1.22v is WAY too low!


----------



## TuxeyM

MY MAN! Thanks for the quick response... I am going to up the voltage really quick.

Do you think it could have done damage?


----------



## dpawl31

No not at all, too low just causes instablity.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Woah woah... missed this:

That's not right at all.

1:1 would be 236Mhz (OR DDR2-472)
FSB @ 236 gives you just over 3.3Ghz which is what I am assuming.

20x165 = 3.3Ghz, not 236.


----------



## rsfkevski

That things got a Multi of 20?


----------



## dpawl31

Hes on an 820 pookie... 14 multi. I should know


----------



## The Pook

Liar. He has a 805.


----------



## dpawl31

Whistlin won't getcha outta that one!


----------



## TuxeyM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Woah woah... missed this:

That's not right at all.

1:1 would be 236Mhz (OR DDR2-472)
FSB @ 236 gives you just over 3.3Ghz which is what I am assuming.

I may have mistated. Let me give you what is in cpu-z...

I am assuming

Bus Speed:236.3
Rated Bus Speed:945

Mem Frequency:472.5MHZ

Now could anyone explain why it still says my timing is 1:2 in Cpuz when I have it set manually 1:1 and taken pretty much everything off auto?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
20x165 = 3.3Ghz, not 236.

(236*4)[quad pumped bus]*14[D820 multiplier]=3.3Ghz

What's your stepping and revision?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
(236*4)[quad pumped bus]*14[D820 multiplier]=3.3Ghz

I know. I thought he had an 805.









BACK TO WORK.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TuxeyM* 
Hey guys,it is my first time overclocking EVER, and I love the p5n-e,but I need some help...

I can't seem to get my Pentium D 820(Smithfield) to stabilize @3.3. I have tried almost everything but I need some help...

Setup:
Pentium D 820 (stock is 2.8) but trying 3.3
P5n-E SlI
G Skill 2gb DDR2 800 @ 5-5-5-15
Vcore: 1.22 I think
Mem Voltage upped from 1.9 to 2.03
1:1 @ 920MHZ

I am thinking it is either the memory timing or the vcore...

Any suggestions?

I am veryconfused by how mem timings work.

Hate to say it Pook but it's an 820!


----------



## dpawl31

LoLz hes takin hell for that one


----------



## The Pook

It's a paradox. It's an 805. You guys are crazy.


----------



## rsfkevski

Why am I always so late to the punch?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TuxeyM*


I may have mistated. Let me give you what is in cpu-z...

I am assuming

Bus Speed:236.3 
Rated Bus Speed:945

Mem Frequency:472.5MHZ

Now could anyone explain why it still says my timing is 1:2 in Cpuz when I have it set manually 1:1 and taken pretty much everything off auto?



It is running 1:1... your memory freq should equal bus speed.

So you are really in 1:2...

You need to go into Jumperfree config, set to MANUAL, The in FSB config set LINKED and then under the RAM divider section choose SYNC.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Why am I always so late to the punch?


You don't have a P5N-E... that's why you are slow


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I know. I thought he had an 805.









BACK TO WORK.










eh...we all make mistakes once and a while


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Why am I always so late to the punch?


It's my sparkling personality and sexy body that got you dazed.

...
....
.....
*goes to sleep*


----------



## Ravin

posting too fast....cant keep up....oxycontin slowing me down....

Edit:

Legally taking the meds...crashed the bike today into a garbage truck


----------



## dpawl31

Glad your OK. Now share your meds


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


It's my sparkling personality and sexy body that got you dazed.

...
....
.....
*goes to sleep*


That's a good one DPawl, although as soon as I get my $700 saved, or if the wife will come off some cash, I'll order my new setup and go for that 500FSB everyone's always sayin this board won't do!

AHHHHH NVM


----------



## TuxeyM

You guys are AWESOME.

I am soo happy I chose this mobo over the p5b-e. Great support from you guys.

Thanks to everyone's advice I upped the vcore to 1.30 and have been running orthos for 15 minutes now with no error(errors used to pop up in under 10).

Any advice as far as the temp, because I am getting about 46 Idle, and 59 load or is that ok...

I have that stupid Zalman Golden Brass Behemoth the CNPS9500LED in right now, because I am too lazy to put in the AC freezer 7 pro that just arrived today(I am waiting for my core 2 duo e6600) from the egg.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


It's my sparkling personality and sexy body that got you dazed.

...
....
.....
*goes to sleep*


Oh yeah, as for you Pook, unless you're female (which I'm pretty sure you aren't) nuttin you got could daze me, now that oxycontin on the other hand. Oh wait, which hand was it? Aw man, too many drugs left in my blood stream from the 80's, killin---brain---cells.....got----two----left----and----their----battling----it----out!


----------



## rsfkevski

When temps go over 65ºC, then start to worry!


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TuxeyM*


You guys are AWESOME.

I am soo happy I chose this mobo over the p5b-e. Great support from you guys.

Thanks to everyone's advice I upped the vcore to 1.30 and have been running orthos for 15 minutes now with no error(errors used to pop up in under 10).

Any advice as far as the temp, because I am getting about 46 Idle, and 59 load or is that ok...

I have that stupid Zalman Golden Brass Behemoth the CNPS9500LED in right now, because I am too lazy to put in the AC freezer 7 pro that just arrived today(I am waiting for my core 2 duo e6600) from the egg.


You should be getting better temps than that with your current cooler. My friend has the same 9500 and his idles in the low 30's, NEVER gets above 52ÂºC!


----------



## dpawl31

Zalman FTL...









I have his same chip, and same cooler (ACF7) and I am running almost 1Ghz OC with it, no more than 47C load.

Then again, I also have an Antec 900


----------



## TuxeyM

Well... My cooler isn't exactly what you would call stock...

It is a bit modded. Meaning half of the right side fins have been cutoff using scissors....

It had trouble fitting into my RAIDMAX Smilodon case...

I (when at stock speed) was getting 34 Idle 40 Load...

But, my real question is, could someone explain the difference between 1:1 and this "Sync" Mode? I am getting the hang of it, just still a little lost...


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


That's a good one DPawl, although as soon as I get my $700 saved, or if the wife will come off some cash, I'll order my new setup and go for that 500FSB everyone's always sayin this board won't do!

AHHHHH NVM


****ING RIGHT BUDDY!

I'm juuuuust about ready to prove that myself...i hope...maybe...probably not.


----------



## dpawl31

1:1 IS sync. Same exact thing. That's why 1:1 is not an option for linked.
It is 1:1.


----------



## dpawl31

Kopi why is madhandlez on your avatar. That's givin me nightmares.


----------



## Kopi

heh theres a thread about it...we're trying to take over the world...i mean...site

ZOMG 3,998 posts.


----------



## dpawl31

Go post twice I'll make you a 4k posts thread


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


****ING RIGHT BUDDY!

I'm juuuuust about ready to prove that myself...i hope...maybe...probably not.


Do I detect a hint of sarcasm there Kopi????


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


1:1 IS sync. Same exact thing. That's why 1:1 is not an option for linked.
It is 1:1.


No, it is not.

1:1 meens that your Ram is running in a speed as your rated FSB . Ex: haveing C2D, your def FSB speed is 1066. And your ram is running at 1066 Mhz (4x267Mhz) ([email protected], should have at least DDRII PC8500 to have that speed by def)

synchronised meens that mem is running as your bus speed. useing last example, your mem speed is 533Mhz ([email protected]). That is def for DDRII PC4200

Sry, it's to hot in here.


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


No, it is not.

1:1 meens that your Ram is running in a speed as your rated FSB . Ex: haveing C2D, your def FSB speed is 1066. And your ram is running at 1066 Mhz (4x267Mhz) ([email protected], should have at least DDRII PC8500 to have that speed by def)

synchronised meens that mem is running as your bus speed. useing last example, your mem speed is 533Mhz ([email protected]). That is def for DDRII PC4200

Sry, it's to hot in here.


Yes, couldnt have put it better myself. My bus is at 1750 and i gotz ddr800 gzkillz. i think they can handle 1:1, but i havent tried. last time i did linked at stock with 1066, i coudlnt even installz window!! I didnt know underclocking could cauzes problems, or if it's just my ram slappin me in the face for underestimating it... lol.. ddr800 at ddr533


----------



## dpawl31

Uhm... 1:1 is in reference to Bus Speed and Memory Frequency.
In my case, I am running 265Mhz FSB, @ Rated 1060 giving me 3.7Ghz (14Multi)

1:1 refers to FSB:RAM PRE-Quad Pumped and PRE-DDR

DonNiger Said:

Quote:

1:1 meens that your Ram is running in a speed as your rated FSB . Ex: haveing C2D, your def FSB speed is 1066. And your ram is running at 1066 Mhz (4x267Mhz) ([email protected], should have at least DDRII PC8500 to have that speed by def)
PC8500? No way! 266.5Mhz (1066/4) x TWO (DDR) = DDR2-533 (533Mhz)
RAM Ratings are DDR numbers, so if you run 1:1 @ 266.5FSB, your DDR memory has to be DDR2-533.(PC2-4200)

CPU FSB is *QUAD* pumped. 266.5x4 = 1066Mhz
RAM Frequency is *DOUBLE* pumped, DDR= Dual Data Rate. 266.5x2 = 533Mhz

Therefore, CPU running @ 1066mhz and RAM rated for 533Mhz *is true 1:1, AND syncronous.*

Straight out of the Intel OC Guide from OCN (not the best but it'll do)

Quote:

On Intel systems, best performance is achieved through highest possible stable operation in synchronous (1:1) CPU:RAM operation.
Sorry if this seems harsh Don/Nev, but I think you guys are quad-pumping your ram #'s?


----------



## Nevaziah

OOPS, i didnt notice he tiped in 1066, thats STOCK!!!
Im running my fsb at 1750!!! but it's unliked, so i manualy put the ram at ddr-800


----------



## dpawl31

FSB of 437.5Mhz in your situation, quad pumped to your 1750Mhz.

DDR2-800 could probably overclock to DDR2-875 with no issue, if it is good RAM, and that would give you 1:1 (sync).

Your system says 900Mhz, so apparently it OC's fine?
I suggest setting to sync mode, 1) because you only have to enter CPU FSB when overclocking 2) because 1:1 runs smoother. Even straying a bit from 1:1 can cause instability, especially at higher clocks. If you are running 437.5:500 no problem, completely stable, then stay there. Or you can try going down to 1:1 and reducing timings (if you loosened them above stock for overclocking RAM)


----------



## Nevaziah

ok Dpawl, i will do it once i get home. if it doesnt go any higher than 488mhz (which is the max ive hit so far) I will switch the cpu to my GIgabypte GA-965P-S3 and try that...

Although I am not a big fan of Asus' gigabyte line, I am, truthfuly, in quest for the best performance...


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rsfkevski*


Do I detect a hint of sarcasm there Kopi????










You do not, sir. I think certain boards can do it, and im very optimistic.


----------



## The Pook

We've (at least, I did) noticed.
>_>


----------



## Ravin

Ok guys.....time for RAM upgrade.

This: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227184

or This: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227190

or.....something else?


----------



## Kopi

Nah dont get the flex, nothing special there for the price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146563

Thats where its at.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Nah dont get the flex, nothing special there for the price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146563

Thats where its at.


Mmmmm...Thanks for the tip. Did some homework and found that those 5-5-5-15 timings are conservative for those stix....which is why I was looking at the OCZs. Looks like they'll match up quite nice and run 1:1 no prob with the CPU upgrade coming in a few months.


----------



## Kopi

you can pull those timings down large. Remember thats 5-5-5-15 at 1000mhz. If your going to be running 100mhz that decent, if you're going to run like 800 or something...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820144030


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
you can pull those timings down large. Remember thats 5-5-5-15 at 1000mhz. If your going to be running 100mhz that decent, if you're going to run like 800 or something...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820144030

Went with this cause I'm going with either the Q6600 or QX6700 at the 3Q price drop (probably) and I'll want the extra headroom







:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146563

And 2 of these, cause my one POS CRT died a couple of weeks ago







:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824001088


----------



## dpawl31

Nice job on the Ballistix, great stix (pun intended)

Great monitors too.

Screw the Q6600 and QX6700... get a native quad core when they are released.
Honestly, the usefullness of quad core right now is not at all neccessary, wait it out and get native quad core, by then they might be on 32nm


----------



## nirvania

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145015

Getting that RAM, will it work? I also heard it does not work with all 4 slots filled, is that true?


----------



## dpawl31

Those are fine, and the 4 slot thing is on the 02 bios, I believe its fine on everything else.

What do you need 4GB for?

Welcome to the thread


----------



## nirvania

well, its just a concern for future upgrades.....

The first couple reviews on newegg kinda makes me wanna not get it. That is why I am doing some research

Now that I know there are over 100 pages on this motherboard, I won't be worried.

Is it OK to get the open box version??

Also, do I need a floppy drive to upgrade the BIOS?


----------



## dpawl31

As long as you are cool without cables and such, I don't know the return policy on open box if someone botched a NB chip or something.

Screw the newegg reviews. If you read them carefully, you'll notice they don't know what they are talking about.

Hell, one guy mentions his NIC card and sound card didn't work - it's onboard moron, not a card!

Every other bad review tends to talk about RAM issues. Most of those boneheads were most likely on 02 or 05 bios, both of which have some issues (especially 02!)

Look at every other review, if its not bad, its 5 star. 
Forget the reviews- This board is the best bang for the buck. Get's scores nearly equal to, if not better, than boards hundreds of dollars more. Lot of people having problems trying to get to that 500FSB+, but I believe that to be _mostly_ CPU dependant. Most people who can't get to 500, get damn close (475+)

It's a DAMN good board, at a DAMN good price. All backed by Asus.


----------



## Ravin

Yea, when I saw those monitors for $189 with a $20 rebate (you can get upto 30 rebates for the same product under the same name/house) I couldn't resist. It's been killing me just having one 15" monitor- you get used to 2 and one just isn't enough.

Not a bad deal on the PC2 8000 either. $234 with $50 rebate on that.....I paid $279 for my PC2 4200 2 years ago- and that was cheap. Thanx 4 the advice Kopi- I think I'm gonna like my new stix.









And Nirvinia.....Listen to Dpawl, good advice there too


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



you get used to 2 and one just isn't enough.


Well my main display is a 19" Widescreen Acer 5ms...
But my secondary is a 46" rear projection TV









Beat that! lol


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Those are fine, and the 4 slot thing is on the 02 bios, I believe its fine on everything else.

What do you need 4GB for?

Welcome to the thread










Why not 4Gb.....If I could have afforded a second set along with all the other goodies I just got I woulda.....although I would need XP x64 too...lol


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Uhm... 1:1 is in reference to Bus Speed and Memory Frequency.
In my case, I am running 265Mhz FSB, @ Rated 1060 giving me 3.7Ghz (14Multi)

1:1 refers to FSB:RAM PRE-Quad Pumped and PRE-DDR

DonNiger Said:

PC8500? No way! 266.5Mhz (1066/4) x TWO (DDR) = DDR2-533 (533Mhz)
RAM Ratings are DDR numbers, so if you run 1:1 @ 266.5FSB, your DDR memory has to be DDR2-533.(PC2-4200)

CPU FSB is *QUAD* pumped. 266.5x4 = 1066Mhz
RAM Frequency is *DOUBLE* pumped, DDR= Dual Data Rate. 266.5x2 = 533Mhz

Therefore, CPU running @ 1066mhz and RAM rated for 533Mhz *is true 1:1, AND syncronous.*

Straight out of the Intel OC Guide from OCN (not the best but it'll do)

Sorry if this seems harsh Don/Nev, but I think you guys are quad-pumping your ram #'s?



Bus speed and rated FSB are different things. FSB is four times as bus speed.

sync meens that you run mem 1:1 to bus speed, not FSB.

You could easily try it out, because you Preslers def FSB is 800 Mhz. Set youR CPU to def and mem settings 1:1. It should show up, that you running you mem at the speed of 800 Mhz (DDR400)

Now, try the sync option. You should notice that your mem is running at 400 Mhz (DDR200)


----------



## dpawl31

I am sorry Don, but you are wrong.
The terms bus speed and FSB are used loosely. 
For the sake of discussion lets call them BUS and QDRBUS

What I am saying you are wrong about is this:

Quote:



running you mem at the speed of 800 Mhz (DDR400)


You have it backwards...

DDR2-400 is running @ 200Mhz. Not 800Mhz.
800Mhz would be DDR2-1600 which does not exist.
Now if you are talking AFTER DDR takes effect (400Mhz times two) then it would be DDR2-800.

BUS is @ 265Mhz, QRDBUS is 1060Mhz. 
With 1:1, BUS(PreQDR)*:*RAM(PreDDR) 265Mhz*:*265Mhz is 1:1, which would be DDR2-530.

Also, I don't have a Presler, it's a Smithfield, and I am not sure what you are saying when you say:

Quote:



Set you CPU to def and mem settings 1:1


There is no 1:1 option, because 1:1 *IS* sync.
What do you mean by set your cpu to *def*? What is DEF?

*EDIT*
Our BIOS is different than a lot of motherboards.
Most motherboards I've used you set FSB and PreDDR RAM frequency.
ie, in my case 265Mhz for FSB and 265Mhz for RAM, effectively 1:1
Which would give me 1060Mhz FSB QDR and 530Mhz DDR.


----------



## DonNiger

OK, I'll run some test tonight by myself, and post the screens up here.

P.S I didn't say that DDRII400 is running at 800Mhz, I said that DDR400 is running @ 800 Mhz.


----------



## TuxeyM

Hey guys, I am tripping out a little bit. I just got my Freezer 7 Pro to replace the
Zalman 9700, but I am hearing it won't fit...

If this is true, then how do I take the stock NB cooler off and what should I put on instead??? I was looking at the eSpirit cooler and Jing ting(do either fit), but will it fit with the stock NB cooler?

Anyone got any suggestions that would fit a freezer 7 pro into this board?


----------



## Asce

I was just wondering if This RAM works weel with this board. Its the only component i havent made a decision on yet


----------



## jaihenwood

the system just locks up when i play videos. I can run everything...age of empire..prime95....ortho. but if I'm trying to watch a video from cnn.com or watching a divx movie it just locks up. the system doesn't reboot just locks up. I've tried playing with the voltages in bios but nothing seems to help.

the system just locks up and doesn't just reboot could this be my graphics card? any advice?


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I was just wondering if This RAM works weel with this board. Its the only component i havent made a decision on yet

Doode, for that price, y not get 2GB? Here









Plus this ram is rated up to 2.4 voltz, so u have some headroom to up the timings or OC. If you STILL want to get only 1GB, then get ONE stick of 1GB. soon you will notice 512mb will take too much of your room when you want to upgrade.

Please post your PC SPECS HERE


----------



## Asce

Cheers dude, didnt think i could get 2Gb in dual channel for that price. And i will be updating my Pc Specs as i go along and buy the parts, since ive just ordered a E6420 and a Zalman 600w psu.


----------



## dpawl31

Don- DDR and DDR2 are just different pin types, 184 and 240.
DDR400 and DDR2-400 both run @ 200 Mhz PRE-DDR rate.

Freezer 7 Pro fits I have it.
You need to either remove the ASUS sticker off the NB HS and bend ONE of the fins down, or trim some plastic off the edge of the bottom left of the CPUHSF. Do the fan trick, I did the NB one and am not happy  Then again I was the first to do it. lol.

Jaihen- I suspect your video card. Is it overclocked? Because mine did that to me when overclocked. And you have the same card


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Cheers dude, didnt think i could get 2Gb in dual channel for that price. And i will be updating my Pc Specs as i go along and buy the parts, since ive just ordered a E6420 and a Zalman 600w psu.

glad I could be of service. I have built so many budget AND midrange rigs for friends taht I can EASILY build the best bang for buck at ANY budget.(challenge to anyone at OCN







, mwahahahahahhhaha *Cough *cough *Ack *cough *ahem...)


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I was just wondering if This RAM works weel with this board. Its the only component i havent made a decision on yet

This is only $50 US (25 Brit Lbs)more after rebate, higher speed 1GHz modules. Just picked a pair up myself

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146563


----------



## TuxeyM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Don- DDR and DDR2 are just different pin types, 184 and 240.
DDR400 and DDR2-400 both run @ 200 Mhz PRE-DDR rate.

Freezer 7 Pro fits I have it.
You need to either remove the ASUS sticker off the NB HS and bend ONE of the fins down, or trim some plastic off the edge of the bottom left of the CPUHSF. Do the fan trick, I did the NB one and am not happy  Then again I was the first to do it. lol.


So you wouldn't recommend doing the NB modification? Would the AC7 trim affect its performance?

Or should I just get the Jing Ting or thermalright HR-05 http://www.thermalright.com/a_page/m...oduct_hr05.htm?


----------



## Nevaziah

Honestly, when i doubt, get the ThermalTake Big Typhoon. Very well proven, VERY quiet (heck, can run without the fan on, and still beat my stock cooler on idle-around 35% load). ONLY 39.99 at Xoxide.com, wow, beats newegg for once.(newegg at 44.99..)


----------



## TuxeyM

But my Freezer 7 Pro from newegg is already here...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jaihenwood* 
the system just locks up when i play videos. I can run everything...age of empire..prime95....ortho. but if I'm trying to watch a video from cnn.com or watching a divx movie it just locks up. the system doesn't reboot just locks up. I've tried playing with the voltages in bios but nothing seems to help.

the system just locks up and doesn't just reboot could this be my graphics card? any advice?

That would be an OS problem.
Vista is known to lock up on ANY videos, not unheard of on XP. (Just reinstall)


----------



## mcogan10

just thought id let ya'll know that i ordered my new p5n-sli 650i baby...wooooooo


----------



## dpawl31

TuxeyM, yes, do the fan shroud mod instead of bending the NB.
The freezer is great.

The big typhoon is great, but relies on great case cooling because it forces the warm air in all directions. The freezer and the TT120 force the air backwards, where the is usually a rear exhaust fan in most setups, thus getting more of the hot air out more efficiently.

No it will not hard the fan/coolers performance. You are only trimming literally a few millimeters of plastic from the left bottom corner of the fan, which does not even have anything to do with attachin the fan. It connects in the center with clips on both sides. You just need to trim some plastic. I can draw a pic for you, or you can just test fit and to see what you need to trim.

Pook- don't be so sure its the OS. Mine did that for a while and I realized it was OC'd a bit too high, reverted to stock and it stopped. And it was a BFG 7600GT just like his 

Mcogan, I bet you can't wait








Just wondering why you stepped away from the P5B? You need SLI?
Thats a great board, just expensive.


----------



## TuxeyM

Thanks Dpawl, I am gonna wait until my e6600 comes after the price drop to throw it in...

I was just worried because it took me over an hour to mod my 9700LED to fit(It would collide with the power supply so I had to chop off the right side fins...

Would you still recommend a NB cooler?


----------



## Asce

I was wondering if this was a good water cooling system to cool the CPU and NBThermaltake Bigwater 745. Im new to the whole water cooling, so i really dont have any idea which ones are good. Would i need to get a block for a 8800GTS?


----------



## jaihenwood

dpawl31 - i did have my video overclocked but now i have it at stock levels and its still locking up =/ what levels is yours set at?

The Pook - thanks for the advice i may have to try it.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I was wondering if this was a good water cooling system to cool the CPU and NBThermaltake Bigwater 745. Im new to the whole water cooling, so i really dont have any idea which ones are good. Would i need to get a block for a 8800GTS?

If you're looking for simplicity, a package that has all you need to get you going then, yes the Bigwater 745 is a quality product. Thermaltake makes some decent stuff, although I think most here would prefer Zalman.

Yes, you would need a seperate VGA block whit the Bigwater 745 if you want to watercool your video card.

Now, if you're looking for something super top notch, you'll have to piece together your own system from various vendors and do some homework.

Check this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ling-gear.html

Edit: I'm actually considering the Bigwater 745 myself.


----------



## dpawl31

Tuxey, I have no problems with the stock NB HS, but I reseated mine with AS5 and also have a very well cooled case. I am on 1.393v NB, if I go to 1.5 it gets a little toasty. 1.7v Pook said is not good for the NB anyway, so I think as long as you have great case cooling and reseat it, you'll be ok.

I would get a SB $5 HS just for giggles.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
If you're looking for simplicity, a package that has all you need to get you going then, yes the Bigwater 745 is a quality product. Thermaltake makes some decent stuff, although I think most here would prefer Zalman.

Yes, you would need a seperate VGA block whit the Bigwater 745 if you want to watercool your video card.

Now, if you're looking for something super top notch, you'll have to piece together your own system from various vendors and do some homework.

Check this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...ling-gear.html

Edit: I'm actually considering the Bigwater 745 myself.

I think i might just get the Bigwater 745 to start myself off in the water cooling, just hope its good enough to cool a E6420 at upto 3.2Ghz and the NB at the same time


----------



## Nevaziah

hehehehe, If it's not going to be able to do that, then you might aswell buy air cooling. (tuniq tower, TTBT, zalman 9500)


----------



## xlr8

When do you all consider your OC stable? Orthos how many hours? Any other programs you like to run to validate Orthos results?

Is it a bad Idea to run NB voltage on Auto? I have it set at 1.393 for now but want to know if Auto could regulate it when needed...

Anybody play with LDT Frequency? Should it stay at 5x? I really don't understand what it does??........


----------



## Nevaziah

nb voltage can be left on auto, it's better on lowest settingif you dont want your chipset to toast up, but i have 2 old athlon xp fans on my chipset soo....

as for LDT freequency, i dont know what it does...


----------



## Mr Pink57

I think it was you dpawl who wanted to get that Zalman SB cooler the golden looking one. And as I said I did in fact purchase the unit and was a pain to install but did install. A heads up get some new plastic pins or take them from another cooler. The black ones pop off! I went to install my 8800GTS and the Zalman literally flew off my mobo at me (it wants to kill me I lock my case now). I put the new white pins in and nothing since, also for you guys with a 8800 series card looking at the cooler be careful its a tight fight actually.









It pushes kinda against it but not too much pressure for white pins.

pink


----------



## DonNiger

Are you thinking that your VGA is too cold and needs to be warmed up.







Is there any other direction to turn the heatpipes, like to the back?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr Pink57* 
I think it was you dpawl who wanted to get that Zalman SB cooler the golden looking one. And as I said I did in fact purchase the unit and was a pain to install but did install. A heads up get some new plastic pins or take them from another cooler. The black ones pop off! I went to install my 8800GTS and the Zalman literally flew off my mobo at me (it wants to kill me I lock my case now). I put the new white pins in and nothing since, also for you guys with a 8800 series card looking at the cooler be careful its a tight fight actually.

It pushes kinda against it but not too much pressure for white pins.

pink


----------



## DonNiger

I am trying to prove what I said before. Bios version 0401 is in use.
Look at the screen by yourselves.
First: mem is set to *SYNC* Bus speed is set to 410 Mhz, rated FSB is 1640 Mhz. Mem speed is 820 Mhz (DDR410) So, it is running 1:1 with *Bus speed* not to FSB.


Second: mem is set to *1:1*. Bus speed is set to 266,7, rated FSB is 1066,6. Mem speed is 1066,6 Mhz (DDR533,3 Mhz). It is running 1:1 with *Rated FSB* not to bus speed.


I think that I have proved that the bios options Sync and 1:1 are not the same.
For those, who are trying to have that 1:1 bios setting running and as I told before, should have a PC8500 at least or overclock your mem to that speed. Mine def is PC7200, but they are equiped with Microns and 2,4 volts is in use. (That 1066 timings are in loose, have not tried to max thouse yet, 1150Mhz had 5-4-4-9-2T timings)


----------



## mcogan10

sup guys, just ordered my board yesterday, what oc's should i expect from it?


----------



## Mr Pink57

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Are you thinking that your VGA is too cold and needs to be warmed up.







Is there any other direction to turn the heatpipes, like to the back?

Thats the only direction there is a Scythe Infinity above it. The non SLi version would fit but I already owned this one. And that card blows some serious hot air out the back.

pink


----------



## The Pook

**** I HATE THERMAL PASTE






























I know how to put it on.
I know the different methods.
I've tried all of them.
And I horribly fail at each one of them. It's like pure luck for me if I do a good job or not.









I just put on AS5 vs. Watery Dynex **** and now it's 69C load vs 63C load









6C over good **** vs ****ty ****? ****ing annoying ****.
Ambients are 75F with the crappy **** and 79F with the good ****.






























I'm sick, my heatsink can't fit in the case unless I take EVERYTHING out, I had at least 50 trips to go blow my nose, I did a kick ass job managing my cables, and I have to tear it apart again. Not to mention one of the retention clips for the fan on my HSF doesn't fit between my PSU and HSF anymore so now I had to get a ****ing rubber band to hold the **** in.









I'm like thermal paste cripple. 
****.


----------



## The Pook

Damn, that post seems like it has more *'s than words. Ooops.


----------



## DonNiger

Have you tried to polish your CPU. Because IHS isn't exact flat, actually, it isn't flat at all. I am going to polish mine within couple of days.
My D920 is shiny like a mirror, it's cold and clocks like a hell.


----------



## The Pook

Lapping isn't needed to keep a processor under 70C dude. My stock cooling managed under 66C at 2.8Ghz with 1.29v (3300Mhz @ 1.31v now) with the stock thermal paste on the bottom. I just completely fail at putting on TIM.

I'm caseless now (I applied, managed my cables again, tried to start up my computer, wouldn't start. Shorted on something. Too lazy to do it now and plus I don't feel like messing with it when I'm sick) and I'm loading at about 60C with the same ambients so far.


----------



## Ravin

Sorry to hear you're under the weather Pook. It's been going around Portland too- I was sick all last weekend, got better, crashed my motorcycle into the garbage truck, my wife got sick from me, then gave it back to me. I think my nose is dripping in the gallon per minute range now.

Get better soon.

Yea, working with thermal paste is a SOB- partly why I left the stock crap on my CPU until I had to reseat into the new mobo. I swear it's 90% luck to get a good seat with that stuff.

Newegg shipped my new monitors and RAM today. I can't wait!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


hehehehe, If it's not going to be able to do that, then you might aswell buy air cooling. (tuniq tower, TTBT, zalman 9500)


There's no way air is going to beat even the crappiest H2O cooling. QH20= 4.19J/g, Qair=0.17J/g


----------



## The Pook

My idle is higher but my load is lower.
>.>;

*edit*
Went to enable VT for VMWare...and I have no idea why...but my voltage was at 1.48v instead of 1.4v. :***: I set it back and I'm at 43C idle now.

*Runs Orthos*


----------



## The Pook

Back at 1.4v I'm having at 42/43C idle and 51C load.







Go me.

I'm at 1870 now...Orthosing...I put some RAM sinks on the more important MOSFETS, so I might be able to get past 1860 stable. :\\


----------



## Kopi

Lapping = no need for thermalpaste

Maybe look into a thermalpad lol


----------



## The Pook

51C load now. I'm happy with it.
Until I have the money to buy a lapping kit, I'm not lapping. >_>


----------



## xlr8

I used a palm sander with #800 through #2000 grit sand paper.. Takes about 15min to go through all the grits but itâ€™s easier and much faster than manually doing it. It will make a mirror out of your heatsink real quick. Works best without using water..


----------



## xlr8

I know that it has been said to run â€œlinked and syncâ€ for best stability.. This causes you to run your ram lower than what its capable ofâ€¦I look around and see a lot of people with (core2) overclocks and most of them have their ram above 800 most are 900 or more. Is it just this motherboard or what? How can they be stable? They are not linked and sync and most are not over 400FSBâ€¦â€¦â€¦


----------



## The Pook

If you have a lower multi (E6300/E6400) you can run 450+FSB and run your ram at DDR2-900+ while running in sync.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlr8*


I know that it has been said to run "linked and sync" for best stability.. This causes you to run your ram lower than what its capable of&#8230;I look around and see a lot of people with (core2) overclocks and most of them have their ram above 800 most are 900 or more. Is it just this motherboard or what? How can they be stable? They are not linked and sync and most are not over 400FSB&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;


Higher Mhz does not always mean higher performance. My mem is running at 840 Mhz (rated 900) but the perf is way higher than it is at 1150 Mhz.

840 Mhz



Damn, cann't find the screen for 1150 Mhz, anyway, the reading was around 10k


----------



## mcogan10

ok, i just got my new p5n-e sli and ive been having a couple issues. first off, i need a good temperature monitor since TAT wont work for some reason. ive used coretemp, speedfan, everest, and pc wizard - the latter three have all given me the same readings (32c idle, 39c load), while coretemp gives very different readings (46c idle, 53c load). when i checked the temperature in the bios (75% load), the temperature was 35c...does this mean that speedfan and everest were correct? id also like to mention that this chipset does not make my ram run at 800mhz, 4-4-4-12, 1.9v stable like it did on my p5b, which is fine but something i would like to have.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


ok, i just got my new p5n-e sli and ive been having....................



Go buck to the post no *1264* and start reading for a couple of pages


----------



## H4mbon3

Just tried runnin my memory in both black slots and it wouldnt go any further than BIOS, wouldn't even let me enter BIOS to be fair.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys!

Been reading this thread for more than a week. (Took me that long) Anyway.









I am planning on buying this motherboard. Just two things concerning the NB and SB cooling. Would this work for the NB, also this one. I am using the Zalman on my current motherboard. I'm not sure if it will cool sufficiently. Cools better than the crap Gigabyte put on here.







What do you guys think?

As for the SB, I think this will do the trick. Yes I like my blue.








It's higher than this one, but I like it's shape and it's blue.







Height isn't really a issue, as I don't plan on getting a 8800 real soon.







7600GT all the way!









I have a Antec Super lanboy chassis. Going to buy 2x120mm Antec TriCool fans to replace the default fans in the case. So I'll have more airflow inside. Should do the trick to cool the NB and SB heatsinks.








All of this coupled with AS5 of course.









Thanks in advance.









Also, thank you to everyone that posted in this thread. I have learned plenty.


----------



## JCushing

i have the zalman NB47J HS for the SB, works good. as far as the NB coolers you posted dont bother. only ones id recommend would be the thermalrite hr05 or thermaltake cl-c0034 (the one i have) but first try reseating the stocker with AS5 and put 1 or 2 40mm fans on it.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


i have the zalman NB47J HS for the SB, works good. as far as the NB coolers you posted dont bother. only ones id recommend would be the thermalrite hr05 or thermaltake cl-c0034 (the one i have) but first try reseating the stocker with AS5 and put 1 or 2 40mm fans on it.


Alright, thanks. I'll see what I can organise. I have three online websites I use here in South Africa. Between them I can always find what I want, any brand. They don't have those Thermaltake's you mentioned.







Rather odd I have to say!







Will keep you posted.


----------



## mcogan10

ok, i read starting with 1264...does this mean i should just use coretemp because the sensors are off?


----------



## mcogan10

alright, while folding my temperatures according to coretemp are about 48c...thats a whole lot more accurate than speefan's 32c...ill just use coretemp


----------



## DonNiger

Everest reads also the core temps but has some proplems to read CPU overall temp. Mine shows 25c all the time.

But you can still stick with the speedfan etc (programs that read CPU temp) Just you have to know that the real temp inside the cores are 14-15c higher.


----------



## Mr Pink57

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


**** I HATE THERMAL PASTE






























I know how to put it on.
I know the different methods.
I've tried all of them.
And I horribly fail at each one of them. It's like pure luck for me if I do a good job or not.









I just put on AS5 vs. Watery Dynex **** and now it's 69C load vs 63C load









6C over good **** vs ****ty ****? ****ing annoying ****.
Ambients are 75F with the crappy **** and 79F with the good ****.






























I'm sick, my heatsink can't fit in the case unless I take EVERYTHING out, I had at least 50 trips to go blow my nose, I did a kick ass job managing my cables, and I have to tear it apart again. Not to mention one of the retention clips for the fan on my HSF doesn't fit between my PSU and HSF anymore so now I had to get a ****ing rubber band to hold the **** in.









I'm like thermal paste cripple. 
****.


I use the line method stated on AS5 sit. The first time I did it I tried a steady stream of AS5 and I went down, well this was WAY too much TIM. This time I put a dot at the top and kinda "smeared" it down a line which gave the perfect amount. Just a heads up if you attempt the worst part of putting a computer together, minus I guess putting the NB/SB coolers on.

pink


----------



## mcogan10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Everest reads also the core temps but has some proplems to read CPU overall temp. Mine shows 25c all the time.

But you can still stick with the speedfan etc (programs that read CPU temp) Just you have to know that the real temp inside the cores are 14-15c higher.


thanks man, core temp it is! temps arent that bad anyway, idle and 100% use while folding are only 2 degrees different...


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


alright, while folding my temperatures according to coretemp are about 48c...thats a whole lot more accurate than speefan's 32c...ill just use coretemp


im surprised noone here can answer your question...haha...guess noone uses speedfan.
but i do.
the temps that speedfan are reporting are actually the opposite, the 32C is your mobo temp and the 48C is your CPU.
its just that speedfan hasnt been updated for the 650i chipset thats y its confused.
you can just change the names in the settings to report the proper temps.
speedfan is awesome, you can control the 2 case fans and the cpu fan for this board. i use it alot.
hope that clears it up for u.
cheers!
D~


----------



## mcogan10

thanks. ive also been hitting some weird oc'ing stuff...on my p5b, i could easily boot at 2.4 (266 x 9)...now when i try, i cant! even with 1.4 volts in it, it wont post! also, my ram used to run at 4-4-4-12, 800mhz, 1.9 volts...now it cant even do that at 2.1 volts? why wont my system oc?


----------



## DonNiger

That 650 chip does not like high clocks at all, but you can have a really low timing. At it's worth more.

Now I'll be silent - to much Jack has destroyed my brains.


----------



## mcogan10

what?


----------



## JCushing

dude honestly i have the same chip/week as you and my computer is iffy at 266x9. not alot seems to work well under 2.7ghz for me. however 2.7 runs like stock (temp and voltage wise) so thats where i leave it.

i dunno why it is.... but thats the way it is.... also i had issues runing the ram unlinked. 1:1 (synced) is alot more stable gaming. i know that sux with a 4300 though. unlinked i could run my ram at any speed and orthos would run fine but i got ramdom BSOD's while gaming (multiple cpu/ram speeds). this has went away since i went synced.


----------



## mcogan10

so what are you at right now? should i just link up the ram and put the fsb higher?


----------



## JCushing

my recommendation is to run the ram synched, its not the fastest setup though so if it works for you at any other speed than go for it....

24/7 i run it at 300x9 (1200fsb) vcore auto NB 1.5v memory 2.08 memory synched 1:1 @ 300mhz (600ddr) 4-4-4-12 1t ( i havent messed with lowering my timings a whole lot)

max stable is 365x9 1.48vcore 1.5v nb 2.08 memory synched @ 365 4-4-4-12 2t

upping the pcie freq seems to help stability at higher clocks too.


----------



## mcogan10

what should i up the pci e clock to?


----------



## JCushing

108-110 seemed to be a happy medium for mine but i was only using my ablility to post as a benchmark, i didnt use any kind of benchamarking software...


----------



## mcogan10

alright, turns out i didnt have enough nb voltage, upped it to 1.38 or something like that...right now im at 300x9 (2.7), on stock cooling; orthos has been running for about a min 50 seconds, and temps are about 61-60c according to coretemp.


----------



## mcogan10

whoa. it all just froze twice. idk what happened, but i went back in, set the fsb to 266, the ram to 533, the nb to like 1.2 volts or something, and that seemed to do the trick...what are acceptable temps for the nb? asus pc probe doesnt seem to work, so what other progs are there?


----------



## JCushing

the "MB" sensor is a combination of NB and SB temperatures

i dunno what your doing messing around under 300fsb though... spending the time to get it nice and stable there doesnt seem worth the effort


----------



## CravinR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


whoa. it all just froze twice. idk what happened, but i went back in, set the fsb to 266, the ram to 533, the nb to like 1.2 volts or something, and that seemed to do the trick...what are acceptable temps for the nb? asus pc probe doesnt seem to work, so what other progs are there?


NB at 1.55
SB at 1.6
FSB term at 1.4
MCH at 1.275


----------



## mcogan10

thanks, but i need to find out acceptable temps and a good program for the nb/sb temps


----------



## The Pook

Everest Home Edition.
0C - 50C.


----------



## gtboi604

there is no program that measures NB SB temps...
the MB temp is located in between the 2 pci-e slots.
D~


----------



## dpawl31

MB TEMP-

POOK: Mean of NB and SB
GTBOI: Between 2 PCIE slots.

Who is right...? I really wish I knew for sure.


----------



## mcogan10

ok, so i have a trial for everest ultimate...should i just keep the temps below 50c, or can they go higher than that? what temps should i keep the mb below?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


MB TEMP-

POOK: Mean of NB and SB
GTBOI: Between 2 PCIE slots.

Who is right...? I really wish I knew for sure.


Touch "between the 2 PCI-Slots" and tell me if it's anything more than your ambient temps.









Take off all airflow to both the NB and SB. Write down temps.
Put heatsink on SB. Mobo temps go down.


----------



## Ravin

Ok....I'm crossing my fingers. UPS has my 2 new monitors and 2Gb of Crucial 1000MHz RAM "out for delivery". They should be by any time now. Once the new stuff is in, I'll post some photos of the desktop (physical one not windows)


----------



## Kopi

Awesomeness. I thought my package came today, it was Johovah's Witness >_>

I was real excited.


----------



## Ravin

They delivered my monitors to the wrong address, and just left them on the porch! Some lucky SOB just got some free stuff....well free for them but I paid for it :swearing:

The memory is still "out for delivery" and should be coming to my correct address.

Edit: I found out that UPS changed the shipping address because their system "couldn't find" my street. Uh.... ever hear of Mapquest or Google?


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Touch "between the 2 PCI-Slots" and tell me if it's anything more than your ambient temps.









Take off all airflow to both the NB and SB. Write down temps.
Put heatsink on SB. Mobo temps go down.

thank you for your ability translate common sense into text.. i litterally LOLed at that....

oh and














to retarted UPS drivers... i had one deliver a intake manifold for my car to the wrong address 210 instead of 201 and the people left for vacation with the box in their garage...


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCushing* 
thank you for your ability translate common sense into text.. i litterally LOLed at that....

oh and














to retarted UPS drivers... i had one deliver a intake manifold for my car to the wrong address 210 instead of 201 and the people left for vacation with the box in their garage...

I think it was Newegg's fault, but yea UPS (pronounced OOOPS) sucks. It's why I usually use Fed-ex.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JCushing* 
thank you for your ability translate common sense into text.. i litterally LOLed at that....

oh and














to retarted UPS drivers... i had one deliver a intake manifold for my car to the wrong address 210 instead of 201 and the people left for vacation with the box in their garage...

That's what I'm here for.


----------



## Nevaziah

dear god. good thing i stay away from UPS. I hadnt heard about this adress mixup posibility. not just that but anytime I ship outside canada or recieve FROM outside canada, I get brokerage fees the size of texas up the wazoo...


----------



## mcogan10

alright, my temps in everest ultimate read 33c...im good to go!


----------



## Ravin

Wowsa....So UPS said that they would pick up and redeliver my stuff on next _Monday_. ***! Monday?!?

So.....I tracked down where they dropped it off and went knocking on their door. The guy was super cool and handed all my stuff right over.

So here it is....minimal tinkering with my settings, stock timings are 5-5-5-15-2T @2.0 volts & 1000MHz- which booted right up no problems.

I linked the CPU/RAM in the bios @ 920MHz, and dropped the timings to 4-4-4-12 2T @2.0V and boom....screenie shown here:

I'll tinker some more with the timings over the next few weeks, but for now I say not too bad.


----------



## Ravin

As promised....
The desktop on my desktop is huge!


----------



## Nevaziah

nice monitorez. I are jealous. I'ma get a 19 or a 17' for my bro soon, then, maybe after, i can get dual monitorez too..








rays:


----------



## dpawl31

1) That silverstone case should be on the floor, it looks rediculous on a desk lol, so big.
2) Time to get a new keyboard and, my god boy, speakers!
3) Who needs a second 19" when you have a 46" rear projection right next to you


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
1) That silverstone case should be on the floor, it looks rediculous on a desk lol, so big.
2) Time to get a new keyboard and, my god boy, speakers!
3) Who needs a second 19" when you have a 46" rear projection right next to you









The case is up for 4 very good reasons reasons 1) we have cats, and cat hair tends to hold a static charge 2) lots of other dust collects on the floor, 3) you can't see all the hard work I've done inside the case, and 4) Its a pain to tinker inside the box when it's tucked away on the floor









New keyboard?







You gotta be kidding?







I LOVE the ergonomic







- I'd only trade it in if it came in black!









You got me on the speakers. It used to be hooked up to a 1200W 5.1 surround with a 800W PA amp running 2 12" subs. Gaming sure did kick @$$ with 2000W pumping out explosions and gunshots. That got moved into the living room when our other stereo died and we needed something in there. One of these days I'll get some new audio, but that's on the bottom of the list.









I gotta stay focused on getting a new CPU and H2O cooling installed first....speaking of.....*anyone found a good SB H2O block that won't interfere with SLI on this thing?*

See the side shot of the case....note the neat cable management


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


The case is up for 4 very good reasons reasons 1) we have cats, and cat hair tends to hold a static charge 2) lots of other dust collects on the floor, 3) you can't see all the hard work I've done inside the case, and 4) Its a pain to tinker inside the box when it's tucked away on the floor









New keyboard?







You gotta be kidding?







I LOVE the ergonomic







- I'd only trade it in if it came in black!









You got me on the speakers. It used to be hooked up to a 1200W 5.1 surround with a 800W PA amp running 2 12" subs. Gaming sure did kick @$$ with 2000W pumping out explosions and gunshots. That got moved into the living room when our other stereo died and we needed something in there. One of these days I'll get some new audio, but that's on the bottom of the list.










I gotta stay focused on getting a new CPU and H2O cooling installed first....speaking of.....*anyone found a good SB H2O block that won't interfere with SLI on this thing?*

See the side shot of the case....note the neat cable management










That looks ALMOST as good as mine (insert sarcasmists voice)

Mine's not MUCH better though!! Too busy with work, coming home tired, to deal with it right now!


----------



## rsfkevski

Has anyone had any issues since flashing to that beta 0501 Bios awhile back. I've since flashed back to 0401 but it seems that the board will not OC near as well as it would prior. Input needed please!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


The case is up for 4 very good reasons reasons 1) we have cats, and cat hair tends to hold a static charge 2) lots of other dust collects on the floor, 3) you can't see all the hard work I've done inside the case, and 4) Its a pain to tinker inside the box when it's tucked away on the floor









New keyboard?







You gotta be kidding?







I LOVE the ergonomic







- I'd only trade it in if it came in black!









You got me on the speakers. It used to be hooked up to a 1200W 5.1 surround with a 800W PA amp running 2 12" subs. Gaming sure did kick @$$ with 2000W pumping out explosions and gunshots. That got moved into the living room when our other stereo died and we needed something in there. One of these days I'll get some new audio, but that's on the bottom of the list.









I gotta stay focused on getting a new CPU and H2O cooling installed first....speaking of.....*anyone found a good SB H2O block that won't interfere with SLI on this thing?*

See the side shot of the case....note the neat cable management











WTH IS THAT STOCK COOLER DOING IN THERE


----------



## nirvania

got my open boxed board today, no accessories.

Vista would crash trying to use 8800GTS.

Quick question, which way is the SLI selector go for single card config?


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nirvania*


got my open boxed board today, no accessories.

Vista would crash trying to use 8800GTS.

Quick question, which way is the SLI selector go for single card config?


Flip it so Single card is facing UP!


----------



## nirvania

Which way is facing up?

I have it where the dual card text side is inserted into the slot


----------



## rsfkevski

Gimme a min. gotta run downstairs and check!


----------



## rsfkevski

Single Video Card side is closest to NB and CPU socket!


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nirvania*


Which way is facing up?

I have it where the dual card text side is inserted into the slot


That's incorrect I do believe!


----------



## nirvania

Now that explains why i couldn't get it to install on vista!

MADE ME FORMAT MY DRIVE AGAIN AND INSTALL XP!

Thanks for the help


----------



## rsfkevski

Np!


----------



## Ihatethedukes

edit oop wrong thread


----------



## dpawl31




----------



## TuxeyM

Alright yall I need help based on the P5n-E SLI viewside...

Hey guys, I am buying a new c2d tomorrow(currently on Oc'd 3.5 GHZ D820)...

My question is this.

I will have about 250 bucks to spend tomorrow, and next week I will have about 180 to spend on watercooling...

I am stuck between a 6420 and 6600. I am hoping to get to about 3.5 ghz OC.

I was sold on the e6600 until I heard about "Bad Batches" that are unable to OC past 3.3/3.4 ghz. I plan to buy from newegg. The e6600 would take 250 to buy including tax and shipping, and the 6420 would run me 210...

Should I take the chance and go for the 6600 which might not be able to OC and have less to spend on a WC setup, or get a trusty 6420 and have more to spend on a WC setup...

What kind of vcore settings am I looking at to reach those levels(3.5)
Please help quick, I have to know by 11 tomorrow...


----------



## JCushing

theres bad batches of 6420's as well it seems... what speed are you looking for? the 4300 is onlt 119 on newegg right now thats right, 119 bux and you can pretty much guarantee 3ghz out of the box with them... thats a killer deal right there

my next choice would be 6600, then 6420 then 6320....

dont forget how fast you can go with some of these chips depends on how fast your ram is...


----------



## TuxeyM

Well, I am hoping to get about 3.5 ghz out of the c2d setup(4400/4300 are out just by preference), and my ram is rated DDR2-800, so it shouldn't be a problem.

So you would say 6600?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
The case is up for 4 very good reasons reasons 1) we have cats, and cat hair tends to hold a static charge 2) lots of other dust collects on the floor, 3) you can't see all the hard work I've done inside the case, and 4) Its a pain to tinker inside the box when it's tucked away on the floor









New keyboard?







You gotta be kidding?







I LOVE the ergonomic







- I'd only trade it in if it came in black!









You got me on the speakers. It used to be hooked up to a 1200W 5.1 surround with a 800W PA amp running 2 12" subs. Gaming sure did kick @$$ with 2000W pumping out explosions and gunshots. That got moved into the living room when our other stereo died and we needed something in there. One of these days I'll get some new audio, but that's on the bottom of the list.









I gotta stay focused on getting a new CPU and H2O cooling installed first....speaking of.....*anyone found a good SB H2O block that won't interfere with SLI on this thing?*

See the side shot of the case....note the neat cable management









NB/SB water blocks suck. A good $20-$30 copper one will outdo a waterblock. They are so small that they just end up killing off water flow in the loop. (Might get 2C lower on the SB, but 3-5C higher on the CPU.)


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


NB/SB water blocks suck. A good $20-$30 copper one will outdo a waterblock. They are so small that they just end up killing off water flow in the loop. (Might get 2C lower on the SB, but 3-5C higher on the CPU.)


Depends where in the loop you have the blocks.


----------



## nirvania

what should I set my stock voltage to be?

E4300
8800GTS
2GB Corsair XMS 675Mhz

Also, where could I get an SLI brigde and Back IO Shield?

And the North and Southbridge burn!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


WTH IS THAT STOCK COOLER DOING IN THERE










When I got the CPU on release day, no one really knew how much heat it would produce. After testing I had planned on putting in better cooling, but ended up buying a condo instead. By the time I got resupplied with extra cash it became upgrade time, so I figured I'd leave it until I got a new CPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


NB/SB water blocks suck. A good $20-$30 copper one will outdo a waterblock. They are so small that they just end up killing off water flow in the loop. (Might get 2C lower on the SB, but 3-5C higher on the CPU.)


I plan on getting a pretty beefy AC pump so flow shouln't be a problem. I also am going to put in a couple of rads, so heat dissapation should be good too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Depends where in the loop you have the blocks.


NB/SB will be at the end of the loop between rad2 (or rad3 if I put 3 in) and the resivoir.


----------



## Asce

Im getting 2 rads for my system looking at a 240 before the cpu and a 120 after the NB block


----------



## nirvania

What should my stock NB voltage be?


----------



## Kopi

This is becomming less and less a "motherboard results/findings" thread as a "If you have this board post any PC related problem you have" thread. Reason I dont show here so much anymore. Nothing against those who are posting their questions though, some are ontopic, liek the post above me is fine.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
This is becomming less and less a "motherboard results/findings" thread as a "If you have this board post any PC related problem you have" thread. Reason I dont show here so much anymore. Nothing against those who are posting their questions though, some are ontopic, liek the post above me is fine.

I'm working on getting some more testing results in with the new hardware.....

RAM timings now set to 4-4-4-8 2T @920MHz @2.0V. Running stability tests now, results tomorrow


----------



## nirvania

I am crashing continuosly on vista with a blue screen saying "Unrecoverable Hardware Error"

Finally, windows tells me what the problem is, but I have no idea what it means

Any suggestions?


----------



## Kopi

_ATK0110 is a pseudo-device. It is the ACPI interface to the hardware,
used by the "AI Booster" program. Either install "AI Booster", or
perhaps try Windows Update, and see if there is a driver in
there that can clean up Device Manager for you.

(The ATK stands for AsusTek, meaning ATK0110 is registered to
Asus, for their use as a pseudo-device. It is an alternate means
to access things like the clock generator, or multiplier settings
and the like, when you want to change overclock settings while
sitting in Windows.)_

Uninstall/remove AI booster may do it.


----------



## nirvania

clean up device manager?


----------



## dpawl31

Right click my computer, go to properties.
Hit Hardware tab --> Device Manager









Kopi, what was that comment about this being a "whiney pc thread" directed at? Everything posted here so far has to do with this board.
If you were in reference to the water cooling ravin is talking about... well he'd be water cooling THIS board, and nobody on OCN so far HAS water cooled this board...


----------



## Praeses

I see a few of you peeps have Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pros. Do they fit without any problems and perform well? I can get them for around the same price as the Zalman 9700. Which would you recommend for the P5N-E?

*edit* and does the 9700 fit without any problems?


----------



## Ravin

14+ hours stable 
RAM @920MHz/ 4-4-4-8 2T 2.0V
CPU runnung 920MHzx14= 3.22 GHZ @ 1.355 V


----------



## mcogan10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


I see a few of you peeps have Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pros. Do they fit without any problems and perform well? I can get them for around the same price as the Zalman 9700. Which would you recommend for the P5N-E?

*edit* and does the 9700 fit without any problems?


the 9700 is a better cooling IMO...check my sig for a list of good coolers


----------



## nirvania

I need some major help. It seems that the sound is causing my system to be unstable!

I am trying to install CoD2 and I get a blue screen when it gets to the part where I enter

the CD key. I disable the Onboard HD Audio, and it works. After installation, If I have

any sound devices enabled (including a USB headset) It will crash in less than 5 min. If

I disable them, I can play for a long time. . . .


----------



## mcogan10

hmm..try reinstalling the sound drivers


----------



## nirvania

I just did, but even the plug and play USB headset crashes it so I guess its not drivers


----------



## Kopi

Sounds like your USB header to the motherboard is in the wrong spot/installed inproperly.

@ Dpawl. I'm just saying, before, people would post their results. Now, its more of a support thread. Thats all.


----------



## nirvania

It only goes in one way, and all my other USB devices work. Sound works, but it will crash the game


----------



## dpawl31

*Quote:*

*Now, its more of a support thread.*

That's what it is supposed to be.
I don't want to come in here and just see what numbers people are getting.
I want to know what coolers they are trying, what temps they are getting with vcore of 1.6v, and I want to be here when someone new says: "how dunz I over kcolckz my seepeeuz on me vanill peefivebeez?" Then I say "get your P5B outta here"


----------



## dpawl31

As far as that USB thing goes... sounds like more of a USB thing than audio.
Try uninstalling:
Sound drivers
USB Drivers

Then reinstall:
USB Drivers
Sound Drivers

Few notes: Makes sure you do them in that order, and also reboot between uninstalls/reinstalls. Even between uninstall of sound and USB.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
the 9700 is a better cooling IMO...check my sig for a list of good coolers

That's a nice thread you started. Very handy. I'm really considering the 9700...but I need to know whether it'll fit on the P5N-E mobo without hassles. That NB heatsink looks rather big...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
14+ hours stable
RAM @920MHz/ 4-4-4-8 2T 2.0V
CPU runnung 920MHzx14= 3.22 GHZ @ 1.355 V

Nice.
I run 940Mhz 4-3-3-6 2T 24/7 at 2.23v (or whatever the 2.2v option is.)
My motherboard doesn't like more than that.


----------



## nirvania

guys, can you guys answer a quick question? What is stock NB voltage?

What should I set it to?


----------



## dpawl31

1) The NB HS is big (er tall too)
2) Freezer 7 Pro works, you have to trim a slight piece of plastic off the corner of the fan housing, or be an idiot like me and bend fins on the NB HS O_O
3) I disagree with the 9700 cooling better. 
4) Stock NB is AUTO, which gives it whatever it wants, I believe. Set it to the lowest, I believe it is 1.293 or something.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Nice.
I run 940Mhz 4-3-3-6 2T 24/7 at 2.23v (or whatever the 2.2v option is.)
My motherboard doesn't like more than that.









Now testing 4-3-3-6 2T @2.1V. I tried variants of 3-x-x-x 2T with voltages up to 2.3V but could not get past the POST.

I'll keep you posted in a few hours


----------



## dpawl31

Ravins all about posting #'s now so Kopi can chill. LoL


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Ravins all about posting #'s now so Kopi can chill. LoL


















just trying out the new hardware.....









Looks good after about the first 2 hours


----------



## nirvania

Whats a good NB and SB heatsink for this board and won't get in the way of my 8800GTS


----------



## hiwa

Can someone give me good guide to oc this board ,i have a fan 60x60 on NB and ,9700nt+ small heatsink on sb
Thanks in advanced


----------



## b1gapl

Currently I have my E6400 at 3.2GHz, 1600FSB.
Ram divider is currently 1:1
VCore is 1.375v
NB Core is 1.393v
RAM is 1.93v

I'm trying to push it further but, I just get random restarts or freezes, if it's anything over 1600FSB. What do you suggest I do, to make this overclock go further? Thanks. If you need any more info, just tell me which you need.


----------



## Kopi

Your voltages are good...what are your RAM timings set to?


----------



## b1gapl

Mine are currently set to 5-5-5-18-2T, with Trc at 22.


----------



## Ravin

4-3-3-6-2T @ 2.1V/920MHz stable for 16+ hours now









Edit: I think that I can bring the voltage back down to 2.0, just had it bumped up to try other settings.








*Kopi u r da shizzy.......thanx for the suggestion on the RAM *


----------



## Kopi

I never suggested anything on the ram lol, but thanks, I'll steal the credit







!!

@ Bigapl, those are actually really loose, but you are still instable. Maybe your Ram volts are too low, is that whats specified by your manufacturer for stock volts? Try 2.1, that seems to be a good number for many. After setting that, try running memtest for a little while. You could also try going 1.4 on the CPU, just to SEE if that was the problem. You gotta take it out of the equation.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


I see a few of you peeps have Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pros. Do they fit without any problems and perform well? I can get them for around the same price as the Zalman 9700. Which would you recommend for the P5N-E?

*edit* and does the 9700 fit without any problems?


Wait a sec, where are you buying from that the AC 7 is as much as a 9700???









Zalman 9700
http://www.directcanada.com/products...=ZALMAN%20TECH

AC7
http://www.directcanada.com/products...CTIC%20COOLING


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


4-3-3-6-2T @ 2.1V/920MHz stable for 16+ hours now









Edit: I think that I can bring the voltage back down to 2.0, just had it bumped up to try other settings.








*Kopi u r da shizzy.......thanx for the suggestion on the RAM *


Competing for best RAM timings now, are we?









I'll drop my vDimm and I'll stabilize 4-3-3-5.







I'm not sure what vDimm I really needed to run it, but I have no problem running 2.2v 24/7 (or hell, even 2.3) so I set it there.

4-3-3-5 is game stable at the least, so making it stable if it isn't shouldn't be a problem








Gunna do what I gotta do (read: obligatory weekend girlfriend call) and then I'm gunna nab something to eat and lay down the leet.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nirvania*


Whats a good NB and SB heatsink for this board and won't get in the way of my 8800GTS


http://www.overclock.net/1900359-post710.html

This is what these HS look like on this board!

You could rotate the SB HS out of the way, as I know the 8800 is lengthy!


----------



## nirvania

thanks, but what heatsink do you have on the SB, I can hardly see it.

BTW, Here are my settings

E4300: @ 3.0 Ghz
Vcore: 1.25 (is this stock voltage? than if not, what is?)
FSB: 1333
FSB/RAM: 1:1
Timings: 4-4-4-12 1T

Also, I'm only 15, I don't got that much extra cash, how would this cool? NB and SB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118214


----------



## Kopi

Theres no chacne you're running 2.5vcore, your comptuer would fry in less than a minute...more like 1 second. Stock is 1.325

Guys, i got bored, decided to pump up the numbers. Incredible!!!


----------



## dpawl31

HOLY TJUNCTION BATMAN!
85C O_O

Nice 3.325


----------



## nirvania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Theres no chacne you're running 2.5vcore, your comptuer would fry in less than a minute...more like 1 second. Stock is 1.325

Guys, i got bored, decided to pump up the numbers. Incredible!!!



Opps! sorry typo, I meat to say 1.25 Vcore, I edited my post


----------



## The Pook

Kopi has a CoreTemp error.
*cough cough*


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I never suggested anything on the ram lol, but thanks, I'll steal the credit







!!

@ Bigapl, those are actually really loose, but you are still instable. Maybe your Ram volts are too low, is that whats specified by your manufacturer for stock volts? Try 2.1, that seems to be a good number for many. After setting that, try running memtest for a little while. You could also try going 1.4 on the CPU, just to SEE if that was the problem. You gotta take it out of the equation.


You sure did....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Nah dont get the flex, nothing special there for the price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146563

Thats where its at.


The Ballistix are incredible. Even tighter timings than my old PQI PC2 4200 @ 4-4-4-8 Ocd/ 3-3-3-7 stock which was never really stable.


----------



## Kopi

Oh. Glad I could help, IMO ballistix are the best sticks out there, I'm a huuuge crucial fanboy. Unfortunately, they aren't a fan of my budget









That was just a coretemp error...you were supposed to note the 554 FSB, but apparently you didnt. It was only at 475fsb (turned multi to 6)


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


@ Bigapl, those are actually really loose, but you are still instable. Maybe your Ram volts are too low, is that whats specified by your manufacturer for stock volts? Try 2.1, that seems to be a good number for many. After setting that, try running memtest for a little while. You could also try going 1.4 on the CPU, just to SEE if that was the problem. You gotta take it out of the equation.


OK, at 1600FSB, I set the VCore on 1.4v, RAM on 2.0v, and NB on 1.56v. After a few hours of running, it freezes, and a drilling sound comes out my speakers. What should I do. Increase the voltage more?


----------



## hiwa

*1900 fsb *


mabye daily


----------



## The Pook

I do 1860 daily and 1940 benchmark.

Everyone is pretty much in the same boat so far.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Oh. Glad I could help, IMO ballistix are the best sticks out there, I'm a huuuge crucial fanboy. Unfortunately, they aren't a fan of my budget










I'd say you're probably right seeing as I was able to tighten the timings so much at stock volts. They were a little spendier than some modules out there, however there are not too many that are comparable PC2 8000 kits that I found that are any cheaper. IMO $170 (after sale price and rebates) for 2 gigs isn't that bad of a price when you're going high end. Especially when you see PC2 6400 going for $120-140.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b1gapl* 
OK, at 1600FSB, I set the VCore on 1.4v, RAM on 2.0v, and NB on 1.56v. After a few hours of running, it freezes, and a drilling sound comes out my speakers. What should I do. Increase the voltage more?

Try running a program called memtest to check your ram for errors. Sometiimes you just get bad ram, it happend to me.

http://www.memtest86.com/ and go to the download section. You can either burn it to CD or Floppy and run it on bootup. Its like a DOS thing. So pop it in (whether you chsoe to do it via CD or floppy) opt to BOOT from the disk. Its straight forward from there on and it will test your memory for errors.


----------



## The Pook

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...541818&loc=101
Rabble rabble. Those what ya got?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...541818&loc=101
Rabble rabble. Those what ya got?

HOLY





















thats crazy 99 bucks!!


----------



## JCushing

anyone try bios 602 yet? its up on asus's site.... the only notes are "adds usb 2.0 support under DOS"

i dunno i was using my usb keyboard and USB camera in dos (camera is what i load bios files with







)


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
HOLY





















thats crazy 99 bucks!!

Think that's nuts check out these....I just paid 179 after rebates....
http://www.dealigg.com/story-Crucial...8-after-40-MIR


----------



## Praeses

Have any of you replaced the thermal paste on the north bridge? Was it easy to remove and attach again? Was it worth the effort?

Can zalman north bridge heatsinks be easily attached to the south bridge or do I need to find specific south bridge heatsinks? Would a zalman north bridge heatsink be more effective as the stock one? Once again, would it be easy to attach the new heatsink? I've never worked with N/S bridges' heatsinks before


----------



## thenailedone

Quick question from a user on another forum (local South African)...

Quote:



Hi Folks.
I am amazed at how many ppl are on the forum at this witching hour. Before you log off, hear me out.

I have recently got me a new system:

C2D E6300
Asus P5n-E SLI
OCZ DDR2 800 2x1Gb (crossfire edition)
(not sure if i should list HDDs etc... )

Anyhow, the RAM i got this eve, just arrived from the US. The guy i sent to get this for me made a bit of a muck up. He bought the OCZ crossfire ram instead of Patriot DRR2 800 with some low timings i asked for.

The problem is that the system will only recognise 1Gb and not 2Gb. I have set the vdimm to 2.01v, set the ram to 800 manually with no luck. I have also swapped the ram from the yellow slots to the black slots, with not joy.

I did some digging and turns out the ram while crossfire certified works just fine with Nvidia chipsets (i.e. nforce 590).

I am new to Intel, and would appreciate any suggestions in trying to get the systemt to 'see' the whole 2gigs in dual channel...

I dont if this is any help, but currently the 1gig registers as dual channel at 2T command timing.


Later on some more info...

Quote:



If i place both ram modules on the module, it registers 1 instead of the 2gb. If only one module is used, it registers 512Mb instead of 1024Mb...

I have swapped slots, swapped the modules, still nothing. The board boots nicely into windows (with 2 modules or one), i am just not seeing my 2Gb ram, or 1Gb ram when i use 1 module.

The more i think i about this, the more i think OCZ screwed up. I think they labelled a 1Gb Dual channel kit incorrectly.

This is frustrating! I have been scouring the net to verify if the 1Gb modules of this OCZ set are single sided modules or double sided. Mine are single sided. Surely in most cases a 1Gb memory module would be doubled sided? ....


Any assistance would be appreciated


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
Have any of you replaced the thermal paste on the north bridge? Was it easy to remove and attach again? Was it worth the effort?

Can zalman north bridge heatsinks be easily attached to the south bridge or do I need to find specific south bridge heatsinks? Would a zalman north bridge heatsink be more effective as the stock one? Once again, would it be easy to attach the new heatsink? I've never worked with N/S bridges' heatsinks before









yes zalmans can attach to the SB easy. the stock NBHS comes off pretty easy too. from the back of the mobo just pinch the plastic clips with thin pliers and push it through.

and for the stock HS the best bet is to reseat it with AS5 and then attatch fan or fans (whatever fits) to it and see how that goes. otherwise try a thermaltake cl-c0034 or thermalrite hr-05. i dont think that zalman makes any HS's id put on the NB of this mobo.


----------



## Nevaziah

Well, i swapped the cpu to my old Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 to reset cmos and see if it works, and it still dont work.(i hadnt figured out how to reset cmos asside from batttery)

Now, when i switched my E6300 to the P5NE-SLi, wont even post. tried different ram, video card, cooler etc.. nothing..

what in the world happened?


----------



## Praeses

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


yes zalmans can attach to the SB easy. the stock NBHS comes off pretty easy too. from the back of the mobo just pinch the plastic clips with thin pliers and push it through.

and for the stock HS the best bet is to reseat it with AS5 and then attatch fan or fans (whatever fits) to it and see how that goes. otherwise try a thermaltake cl-c0034 or thermalrite hr-05. i dont think that zalman makes any HS's id put on the NB of this mobo.


thanks. nice avatar. C.J. rocks


----------



## dpawl31

As far as the RAM issue goes, I'd say he's right... it's probably labeled wrong.
He should run CPUZ and check the part# and serial# on the SPD tab and check it against the actual RAM specs. I bet he got a 1GB Kit...

Nev- what were you doing before your board died?


----------



## Nevaziah

nothing really. The pc was working great, then when I swaped the boards, showed the other one didnt work, i swapped back, and it refused to boot...

Edit: now both wont do nothing! rma'd to ncix.com. wish me luckz!!


----------



## b1gapl

Hey guys....currently I'm on BIOS 0401, and I'm wondering if I should update it to 0505. I was thinking maybe I can take my overclock further with the new BIOS.


----------



## TuxeyM

I heard someone say something about 0606...

I am on 0505 and got my E6600 to 3.2 on 1.34vcore, should I update?


----------



## JCushing

yeah i mentioned the new bios... i belive its 602... no one trying it yet?


----------



## dpawl31

I was told the 5 series was buggy, but I never had issues.

Nev, I may have missed something, but why were you putting in a new board anyway?


----------



## The Pook

I'm going to try it next weekend.
Won't be home all this weekend.
Out of state for collision repair for a 20K scholarship. 
=O
Pook's good at something other than computers? No wai.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I'm going to try it next weekend.
Won't be home all this weekend.
Out of state for collision repair for a 20K scholarship. 
=O
*Pook's good at something other than computers?* No wai.


Whoever said he was good at computers? LMAO jk pookieesss.


----------



## thenailedone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
As far as the RAM issue goes, I'd say he's right... it's probably labeled wrong.
He should run CPUZ and check the part# and serial# on the SPD tab and check it against the actual RAM specs. I bet he got a 1GB Kit...

Nev- what were you doing before your board died?

Yup... he finally got conformation that the ram should be double sided and the ones he got isn't... muck up in labeling... imagine how many n00bs are ignorant of how something like this can seriously screw them over


----------



## DonNiger

Any updates about the newest bios?


----------



## JCushing

someone needs to be the guinea pig, i downloaded it but im too comfy with my settings now to go back through allover again...

if it said more than "added usb support in dos" i might be more willing to try it. i have to assume its a newer version of 505 wich i didnt like.


----------



## paulm

Hy 2 all !! i just buyed the p5n-e sli and this ram, and i don`t know what cpu to buy now .. the e6420 is a good choice with this components or should I buy other cpu to make a perfect math ?

PS: sorry for my english i know how 2 speak in eng. but don`t know how 2 writhe in it


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *paulm* 
hy 2 all !! i just buyed the p5n-e sli and this ram, and i don`t know what cpu to buy now .. the e6420 is a good choice with this components or i shud buy other cpu to make a perfect math ?

E6420 is a great CPU.
I would personally get a E6600 if you have enough money - they usually overclock better.

Generally the older weeks overclock better than the newer weeks.


----------



## Praeses

The CPU support list on the asus website doesn't state that it supports the e4300 for some reason. (but it does support the e4400) I see some of you have e4300s but on another forum a guy complained that his system won't even POST with his e4300. Does the board support e4300 or not?

thanks


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JCushing*


someone needs to be the guinea pig, i downloaded it but im too comfy with my settings now to go back through allover again...

if it said more than "added usb support in dos" i might be more willing to try it. i have to assume its a newer version of 505 wich i didnt like.


I'll be the guinea pig. I dl'd the 0602 last night and will flash this weekend.

edit: I think the 0505 added support for the xx20 processors, and the 0602 added DOS support for USB....like there are many people using DOS these days. Oops pwned myself, I use DOS for some of our older telemetry systems at work......


----------



## TuxeyM

yeah, I got a newer batch 6600 that's whyI updated to 0505, I figured the earlier ones had stability issues...


----------



## shajbot

So guys, does this mobo support E4300?


----------



## dpawl31

Yes, one would assume so?
If the 4400 is supported, and we have a few people on here that have the 4300, I would say







.

Where are the 4300 guys when you need em?


----------



## DonNiger

4300 works perf.


----------



## JCushing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Yes, one would assume so?
If the 4400 is supported, and we have a few people on here that have the 4300, I would say







.

Where are the 4300 guys when you need em?










uh yeah it works, i really didnt think i needed to say anything considering its in my sig.

3.285ghz @ 1.48v baby and oh yeah last i checked the 4300 was 125bux at the egg


----------



## The Pook

Keep in mind E4x00's tend to get lower OC's than the E6x00's...just make sure you have the FSB for 'em.


----------



## Ravin

Ok...I've been trying to flash my BIOS, but am having some problems.








I have been trying to use the ASUS EZ Flash2 in BIOS to flash from 0401 to the 0602 file, but it won't flash and says "The downgraded ROM is not suitable for the system". I have even tried flashing all of the other BIOS files starting with 0202, 0307, 0505, and of course 0602.

Am I missing something?


----------



## Ravin

Ok....Nevermind. I used the ASUS update utility for windows and flashed from there. So very odd. I've never flashed under a windows environment, always used a DOS boot to flash.









NE Way.. it seemed to work. Stress testing now.


----------



## dpawl31

Ravin, EZFlash won't let you downgrade unless you clear CMOS first.
The reason the Windows utility worked it because there is a "BIOS DOWNGRADABLE" Option in the, er, Options section.

Doesn't make sense, right, because it thinks you are downgrading.
It has something to do with the options not being @ stock.
I have had NO issues with the windows utility (asus update) and I acutally prefer it. I know people hate windows based BIOS tools, but I would much rather flash it over using some overclocking utility in windows...


----------



## Ravin

Actually clearing CMOS was step #1 in trouble shooting...


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Any updates about the newest bios?


----------



## Retoric

Using 0602 bios xp sp2 no problems so far. Only thing are long bios post and no multiplier change.


----------



## Sanch3z

hello, I'm Sanch3z and I'm having a bit of difficulty getting my Asus P5N-E SLI based system stable when overclocking. I have a Core 2 Duo e6420 and Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4 2GB Kit DDR2-800 memory. I can do slight overclocks up to 2.6ghz and the system remains stable but I want at least 3.2ghz +. Whenever I go over 2.6ghz and run test software, orthos, memtest, sandra, after a couple of minutes the system freezes. I have tested all components @ stock speeds to rule out any hardware failures, passed memtest and 10+ hours orthos at stock speeds. Temps are not an issue either, under 45c @ max load

maybe its just a wrong setting in bios, 0401, I am using. here is what I'm using (I partially followed a guide from ASUS forums):
* Windows Vista Ultimate, no aero
*memory in yellow slots, black would'nt even post

*memory timings: 4.4.4.12 command rate 2T TRc 22 clocks @ 2.1V

*Vcore 1.35 have also tried 1.45

*disable USB legacy support

* AI tuning [manual]
FSB to Memory [unlinked] which makes FSB Memory Ratio greyed out
FSB upwards of 1600
mem 800mhz
NB core voltage [auto] have tried manually setting to 1.39

I am leaving FSB to memory ratio unlinked but CPU-Z reports FSB







RAM at 15:16.

any help would be kick ass, TIA.

pic of my system http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...t=finished.jpg

custom window, painted interior of case


----------



## Bognostraglum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sanch3z* 
* Windows Vista Ultimate, no aero
*memory in yellow slots, black would'nt even post

*memory timings: 4.4.4.12 command rate 2T TRc 22 clocks @ 2.1V

*Vcore 1.35 have also tried 1.45

*disable USB legacy support

* AI tuning [manual]
FSB to Memory [unlinked] which makes FSB Memory Ratio greyed out
FSB upwards of 1600
mem 800mhz
NB core voltage [auto] have tried manually setting to 1.39

I am leaving FSB to memory ratio unlinked but CPU-Z reports FSB







RAM at 15:16.

Hi and welcome.

There's an excellent guide to this board here

This board is really picky when it comes to ram timings. First thing to do is set the memory to stock settings and play with the CPU and see if you can get too 3.2.

One thing to try is to set the Multiplier to X8 and try 1600 for the cpu and 800 in the ram. This will give you the 1:1 timing you want and keep the memory speed at stock settings.


----------



## Kopi

Woah theres an 0602 bios?


----------



## The Pook

Yeah noob.
>_>;

*installing Vista, XP, and Ubuntu again*
*won't be trying*


----------



## JCushing

oh yeah i love installing ubuntu, dual boot with a sata drive for windows ide for ubuntu using a graphics card that isnt supported in the least with linux. although my upgrade to fiesty went without a hitch







i think im gonna stick with 401.... my OC with my 4300 actually seems to be above par so dont mess with it if its not broke.

speaking of broke the fan on my TT NB cooler (cl-c0034) is making a nice buzzing noise and the RPM sensor doesnt apear to be working. i actually had to tap the damn thing to get it spinning up to full speed.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sanch3z* 
hello, I'm Sanch3z and I'm having a bit of difficulty getting my Asus P5N-E SLI based system stable when overclocking. I have a Core 2 Duo e6420 and Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4 2GB Kit DDR2-800 memory. I can do slight overclocks up to 2.6ghz and the system remains stable but I want at least 3.2ghz +. Whenever I go over 2.6ghz and run test software, orthos, memtest, sandra, after a couple of minutes the system freezes. I have tested all components @ stock speeds to rule out any hardware failures, passed memtest and 10+ hours orthos at stock speeds. Temps are not an issue either, under 45c @ max load

maybe its just a wrong setting in bios, 0401, I am using. here is what I'm using (I partially followed a guide from ASUS forums):
* Windows Vista Ultimate, no aero
*memory in yellow slots, black would'nt even post

*memory timings: 4.4.4.12 command rate 2T TRc 22 clocks @ 2.1V

*Vcore 1.35 have also tried 1.45

*disable USB legacy support

* AI tuning [manual]
FSB to Memory [unlinked] which makes FSB Memory Ratio greyed out
FSB upwards of 1600
mem 800mhz
NB core voltage [auto] have tried manually setting to 1.39

I am leaving FSB to memory ratio unlinked but CPU-Z reports FSB







RAM at 15:16.

any help would be kick ass, TIA.

pic of my system http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y24...t=finished.jpg

custom window, painted interior of case


Sounds to me like the same issue I had...
Try auto voltage on vdimm.
I know, sounds odd, but it worked for me.

Otherwise, I would say it's the PSU...
I have looked at about 5 reviews on that PSU and the numbers seem to be great, and it is even recommended highly. But the only problem I see there is the fact that all those reviews were written pre-G80's.

I am wondering if the 8800 is drawing too much off that PSU. The numbers on it are impressive tho... If the RAM trick doesn't work, try the PSU.
Oh, and if that doesn't work - is your GPU overclocked? If so, try reverting to stock speeds and see if that work.

I think out of those 3 options it is most likely the RAM trick. If not, maybe OC'd GPU, and lastly PSU.

Try em out, let us know.

PS Nice lookin rig. I don't like alienware, it looks cheezy, but that is pretty sleek.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Retoric* 
.............. no multiplier change.

again


----------



## rsfkevski

Well I won't be updating my buddies Bios then. He likes having the changeable multi for OCing!


----------



## dpawl31

That's so irritating, huh?
Guess I have no worries with my locked 14 multi lol.


----------



## JCushing

well new egg is awsome, they just refunded me the money for the TT NB cooler i have http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...4/cl-c0034.asp

i now have a thermalrigth HR-05 non sli on the way http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109128 with a 60x15mm fan and a replacement 40x10 fan for my old one.

im pretty happy with my zalman passive sink on the SB so i dont think ill be re-using the thermaltake once i get the fan in if anyone wants it?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Woah theres an 0602 bios?

lol... yea- Released 4/27. So far I have not noticed any difference between 0401 and 0602. All the settings are the same and stability does not seem to be an issue. IDK about the multiplier lock- I'm etched on die for 14x anyway.


----------



## Ravin

Hey- Just browsing thru the intel CPU folder and took note that the socket T Xeons may run on desktop chipsets? Anyone here hear of running a Xeon on the 650i chipset, more specifically on our board?


----------



## Kopi

Updating to 0602 will have all the vista compatible things that 05 fixed right? A friend just sent me a SB cooler for free, I need to practice lapping and then I'll put'er on...its a coolermaster.

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...1427&CatId=498


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Updating to 0602 will have all the vista compatible things that 05 fixed right? A friend just sent me a SB cooler for free, I need to practice lapping and then I'll put'er on...its a coolermaster.

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...1427&CatId=498

Looks like the only real changes from 0401 to 0505 were for the eXX20 CPU support, and from 0505 to 0602 was to add USB support for DOS. All the fixes to date should be in the 0602.


----------



## SSJVegeta

I'm looking for a suitable southbridge cooler since this board doesn't even have one would you believe!

Is this one ok?

http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...4/cl-c0034.asp

Or this one?

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/+AKAS...roductId=18025

Or do you have any other recommendations?

There are two mounting holes for a southbridge cooler diagonal from each other.

Should I leave the northbridge heatsink as is or change that to active cooling?

I'll be overclocking the CPU so have been advised to add cooling to the southbridge.


----------



## Retoric

Here is someone who tried Xeon 3050, a dualcore, don't now about quadcore.
Think maybe to weak a mobo for real quadcore oc action.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=126791


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
I'm looking for a suitable southbridge cooler since this board doesn't even have one would you believe!

Is this one ok?

http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...4/cl-c0034.asp

Or this one?

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/+AKAS...roductId=18025

Or do you have any other recommendations?

There are two mounting holes for a southbridge cooler diagonal from each other.

Should I leave the northbridge heatsink as is or change that to active cooling?

I'll be overclocking the CPU so have been advised to add cooling to the southbridge.


I'd say get both, put the extreme spirit on NB and the Asaka on the SB.


----------



## JCushing

lol did anyone read my post on the last page about the TT extreme spirit?


----------



## Nevaziah

Well, I'm temporarily out of the P5NE-SLI club. I RMAd both my Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 and my P5N and the Gigabyte got back first.
So im using it for now. Plz dont kickz me out!


----------



## SSJVegeta

Whats the best BIOS to use? 0401?

Also, are there any settings or stuff I should disable in the BIOS to improve performance and any settings you recommend I use?

I should have my rig up and running on Tuesday when the last of the components I ordered, 2GB of RAM arrives on that day









I put a small Zalman heatsink on the southbridge but will have to remove it in the future if I ever want to run a SLI setup since the southbridge with a heatsink or fan on it gets in the way of the graphics card.

I guess thats why Asus didn't put one on in the first place.


----------



## Kopi

I've never actually touched the NB when on, it gettin really hot or what? We never conclusively solved how to measure that NB temp. We have pooks opinion and *insert name of forgotten member here*'s opinion.


----------



## Ictinike

New board owner here, thanks for the all info mates!


----------



## SSJVegeta

What slots do you put the RAM into for dual channel? One in yellow and one in black or both in yellow or both in black?


----------



## B-80

my bios doesn't allow an fsb change, just multi, it's very wierd, do they need a flash?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *B-80* 
my bios doesn't allow an fsb change, just multi, it's very wierd, do they need a flash?

Umm, this thread is only for p5n-e sli ... unless you have one just not in ur sig rig?


----------



## B-80

yeah it's not my sig rig....


----------



## Ictinike

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
What slots do you put the RAM into for dual channel? One in yellow and one in black or both in yellow or both in black?

I've got mine in each the yellow for a 2x1gb kit. Dual Channel running here.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys!

Welcome a new member to the P5N-E SLi club. Me!








Ordered one today, should arrive next week sometime.









7600GT SLi here I come!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ictinike* 
New board owner here, thanks for the all info mates!

You're welcome, and welcome to the club









SSJVegeta match the colors for dual channel









B-80, sounds like you got a special bios there. lol.
Flash that thing already!







04** series bios is what I recommend.
05**, 06** I believe both do not allow multi change (but I don't care, cause I am stuck with 14x! lol)

Christiaan, welcome as well. Damn you getting to 7600GT SLI before me


----------



## SSJVegeta

Thanks dpaw31.

BTW, does this motherboard have a small speaker or something for system error beeps because my case doesn't have a speaker.


----------



## TuxeyM

No, unfortunately you will have to have a case speaker...

Yeah you might wanna change the bios to 0505, I know that has good results for me...

I ain't tried 06 yet though...


----------



## SSJVegeta

Wow, thats lame, how am I supposed to know what error occurs if I can't hear the beeps?

Is there a solution to this apart from getting a case with a speaker?

Could I rip out the speaker from my old case and mount it into the new one and attach the wire to the motherboard and it will work?

Where would the speaker be located in my old case? near the power and hd leds?


----------



## j6snowman

Hey! Everyone, I need some help here with this mobo. I can't get my board to be set FSB







RAM to 2:3. I changed it in the bios to 2:3 but read 3:4 in Zcpu. Are there some settings in the bios i'm not aware of. Thx in advance!

Here is what I'm running.
Q6600
OCZ platinum rev.2 PC6400 4-4-4-15


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TuxeyM*


No, unfortunately you will have to have a case speaker...

Yeah you might wanna change the bios to 0505, I know that has good results for me...

I ain't tried 06 yet though...


0505 I believe does not allow multiplier changes. 
If you are like me and have a locked multi, then what the hell ever. lol.

As far as the speaker, most cases use a standard speaker connected by standard wiring, you should be fine to pop that out of the case. If you have bare wires and stuff, you can attach it to the pins just be careful not to touch the other pins. Any small standard 12v speaker should work, just the smaller the better because it has no power to it. No connecting it to your car subs... 
*idea* Connected to my 700w Alpine Amp to my dual 10 Rockford Fosgates...
BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP
lol

Motherboard speakers are like, $1 at CompUSA


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *j6snowman*


Hey! Everyone, I need some help here with this mobo. I can't get my board to be set FSB







RAM to 2:3. I changed it in the bios to 2:3 but read 3:4 in Zcpu. Are there some settings in the bios i'm not aware of. Thx in advance!

Here is what I'm running.
Q6600
OCZ platinum rev.2 PC6400 4-4-4-15



I'd suggest:
Manually set RAM timings and voltages to STOCK speed, even though you are underclocking. Then set your divider. What BIOS are you running?


----------



## The Pook

I 'unno why everyone says you can't change multi's on 05xx or 06xx. I could/can change multis in both.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


You're welcome, and welcome to the club








Christiaan, welcome as well. Damn you getting to 7600GT SLI before me










Thanks for the greet.








And who knows. It'll be another 2 months or so before I have enough funds scrapped together for a second 7600GT.


----------



## dpawl31

Pook I am only going on other peoples' word, my multi is always grayed out lol.

Hmm... maybe I'll get a 7600GT in a few weeks


----------



## Kopi

Hey.

I need safe mode.

F2, F4, F8, F10, and F12 dont get me there. F8, which it usually is, gives me boot sequence. I want safe mode


----------



## j6snowman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I'd suggest:
Manually set RAM timings and voltages to STOCK speed, even though you are underclocking. Then set your divider. What BIOS are you running?


I think i'm running the latest one 6.XX, it lets you change the divider, but just that it shows something different when i go into cpuZ


----------



## JCushing

i couldnt change multys in 0505, i mean i could change them in the bios but they would just go back to 9 when i rebooted.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Hey.

I need safe mode.

F2, F4, F8, F10, and F12 dont get me there. F8, which it usually is, gives me boot sequence. I want safe mode









Um.
You don't hold F8 as soon as you press the power button. You boot past the POST screen and then you hold F8.

You never do on any motherboard.


----------



## Christiaan

What I do is boot, POST, then press F8 like my life depended on it.








Works everytime.


----------



## Asce

Who doesnt press it like mad


----------



## Ictinike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Who doesnt press it like mad


LOL isn't THAT the truth!


----------



## The Pook

I prefer the method of tapping it in a rhythmatic sequence, then randomly put all your weight on it when you feel it's necessary.


----------



## dpawl31

I usually wait... waitttt for ittttt... waitttt!!!

Then throw my cat at the keyboard


----------



## JCushing

FWIW i just installed my hr-05 and it litterally dwarfs my old thermaltake, no comparison not even fair. got a 60mm fan on there running at ~ 2000rpm and its silent









MB temps hardly go over the idle temp now. theres next to no difference between full load and idle, im happy







its the one i should have gotten to begin with.

as a side note anyone want a Thermaltake cl-c0034 with a new fan that doesnt suck?


----------



## The Pook

No matter what aircooling I invest in, my rig is going to be a boner kill temp wise.

Not so much what I got to cool, because they're great - it's the AMBIENTS.







95F+ ambients at the minimum in the summer. It's great in the winter - 16C idle and 33C load at 1.45v. But in the summer, just at 1.35v - it jumps from 17C idle to 47C idle.









</Rant>
Tempted to go watercooling, but I lack the funds and the willpower.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



It's great in the summer - 16C idle and 33C load at 1.45v. But in the summer,


----------



## nirvania

my idle motherboard temp is 39. My 8800 idles at 50, loads at 60. Hard Drive idles at 40. CPU idles at 38, loads at 45. How are those temps?


----------



## JCushing

could be good, could be bad but if we dont know your ambient temps its pretty hard to say


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys, as you know I ordered this motherboard. Should arrive this week.









What I want to know is about overclocking my 805 on it. On my current motherboard going just past 3.7GHz I get all sorts of weird errors. Like it bluescreening when Windows starts to load. No matter what voltage I use.

Would this then be my motherboards limit as it were. I saw another P5N-E SLi owner in this thread with a 805 clocked at 3.8GHz at 1.4v, I'm at 3.5GHz at 1.4125v. I'm just curious if I will also be able to obtain a speed in that area. I'm actually only buying this motherboard for it's memory settings (this Gigabyte has nothing!) and it's SLi capability, but would be very happy if I can get even more out of my chip.


----------



## dpawl31

You shouldn't have an issue, but I do have to say my 820 is @ 3.7Ghz, 1.4v vcore.
I can up NB voltage to max, vcore to max, with +100mv on, and I just can't get past 3.7Ghz.

When you get up and running and start getting results it will be easier to tell you what's wrong. I'd assume the PSU but can't be sure.


----------



## Christiaan

Yeah, that will be best. Can't wait!


----------



## dpawl31

Our high multi chips are loved by the P5N-E


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*






















Winter.
>.>;


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*











Winter.
>.>;


ROTFL... that is the perfect smiley for that! haha.


----------



## The Pook

Damn right.
In other news.
When my drug trafficking money comes in this month (read: selling PSU that I got from my brother) I'm thinking of getting an eVGA 650i Ultra or jumping to an eVGA 680i motherboard. Not entirely sure yet. Dunno if ~520x7 is worth all that trouble.

3.6 - 3.7Ghz sounds damn nice though.


----------



## nirvania

how do i find ambient temp


----------



## The Pook

Use a digital thermometer in your room.


----------



## gtboi604

that person would be me im guessing?
yea, i got 3.8Ghz stable on 1.4v...even further 4.0Ghz on 1.55v
but temps are killer, my advice would be to invest in pretty good cooling.
if u have any question ur more than welcome.








good luck with yours.
D~


----------



## dpawl31

I will always wonder why my chip won't do anything with more voltage


----------



## The Pook

Same reason why I wonder why my board won't do 500+ FSB









We got duds.


----------



## dpawl31

Nah, methinks you are limited FSB from your temps









My system started giving me errors and failed orthos because it was 84F in my living room when my 16 hour stress test was fine, but @ 72F


----------



## TuxeyM

Just wanna update you guys on how awesome the P5N E is....

Mods...

HR-05 NB Heatsink with 80 MM fan(I almost killed the mobo getting the old one off, those push pins were terrible)

Zalman Aluminum Heatsink on southbridge

Swiftech Apogee GT WC setup...

I would have to say that my results are this...

Reviews:
HR-05: This is a MUST buy if you are gonna oc your board. I was getting mobo temps of 50C with the stock Asus heatsink, but with this hr05 not only did it free up more mobo space and lower temps, I was able to add a 80mm fan to it.
WARNING! This heatsink BURNS HOT without a fan... I mean REALLY hot. A FAN IS A MUST

Southbridge HS: Ehh not much to say, just a tiny aluminum block...

RESULTS: Stock Mobo temp |40C Idle|55C LOAD|

HR-05w/80 mm fan and SB sink: |25C Idle| 32C LOAD|

HR-05 is WORTH IT!


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtboi604* 
that person would be me im guessing?
yea, i got 3.8Ghz stable on 1.4v...even further 4.0Ghz on 1.55v
but temps are killer, my advice would be to invest in pretty good cooling.
if u have any question ur more than welcome.








good luck with yours.
D~

Hehe, yeah. You da man!





























4GHz... 1.55v... that's a tad over 1.4v. (max safe for this CPU)
That's a nice overclock.







But we don't care, it's not like we'll be using it more than 5 years!









At the moment I load at about 52 degrees celcius with Orthos. Room temp at 24 degrees celcius. Thanks to lapping I got that temp from 60.







I'm going to get 2 120mm Antec TriCool fans for my case. At the moment it has 2 120mm Antec fans. But they are low speed. 1600rpm I believe. The rear fan sits right next to my Zalman about 2cm from it. So the idea is to get the TriCool which runs up to 3000rpm or something, will have to check website again, which should pull the heat off the fins much better, hopefully bringing that temperature right down.

Also, when I seated the heatsink I used the grain of rice method. AS5's site has different methods now for each type of CPU. (credit to whoever posted it) The method I used is for single core CPU's, so I'll use the thin line method when I seat it on the new motherboard. Hopefully, I'll gain a few extra degrees in the negative spectrum.









And thanks, I need the good luck.







Hopefully I can reach near 4GHz as well.


----------



## Christiaan

Sorry double post. I'm so bad.









I was wondering, check my RAM in my sig. Will that work with the board? I saw you guys said it's finnicky about RAM.


----------



## SSJVegeta

I'm just wondering I've read around the internet about people having trouble getting the onboard LAN working under Windows XP.

What drivers do I need to install to get onboard LAN working and no unknown devices in the device manager? Just the nForce 650i SLI drivers on the nVidia website?

I want to be prepared as I receive my RAM on Tuesday and then I can install XP 32-bit on my new rig.

Thanks.


----------



## nigel

ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i my next mobo yay..


----------



## SSJVegeta

Anyone attached 40mm fan(s) to the stock northbridge?

If so, how did you secure the fan(s)?

Thanks.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


Anyone attached 40mm fan(s) to the stock northbridge?

If so, how did you secure the fan(s)?

Thanks.


I have a 60mm fan in the slot on the NB, facing the rear of the case. Seems to have enough air flow to keep it cool. 
I have a 30mm setup on the SB, with a HS.

Motherboard temps are about 30C idle w/ ambient 75~77F.


----------



## SSJVegeta

How did you secure the fan?


----------



## dpawl31

It's not. LoL.
It's just sitting in the big slot inbetween fins.
Oh, its resting on my video card too. lol.

Cheap, quick solution and it works









You can use virtually any screw that will fit the holes on the fan.
The fins will spread as you screw it in. 
If the fan holes don't line up with the fins- just turn the fan until they do. Diagonal is ugly, but it'll work


----------



## SSJVegeta

I won't be damaging the heatsink with the screws will I if I decide to use screws?

I don't like when you said 'The fins will spread as you screw it in'

Don't want to butcher my new rig


----------



## dpawl31

#1) With the right screws, it will just "scratch" the inside edges of the heat sink fins.
#2) Who cares, it's a stock HS. A $5 newegg special replacement heatsink, active cooling or not, will be better than the stock heatsink


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
I'm just wondering I've read around the internet about people having trouble getting the onboard LAN working under Windows XP.

What drivers do I need to install to get onboard LAN working and no unknown devices in the device manager? Just the nForce 650i SLI drivers on the nVidia website?

I want to be prepared as I receive my RAM on Tuesday and then I can install XP 32-bit on my new rig.

Thanks.


Shouldn't have any issues with the LAN and XP. Download the latest drivers from nvidia.com- the nForce 650i drivers.


----------



## goody24

I just got my board and i have a dumb question. Where do i set my memory timings? i cant seem to find anyplace in the bios. What am i missing?


----------



## dpawl31

POOKY!!!!!!

I want to know more about this LDT frequency, you seem to know a lot about it.
I want to try that trick and see if I can push my OC further.


----------



## The Pook

Stock FSB to ~400FSB, keep it at 4x.
Anything higher, tune it down to 3x.
I didn't notice any difference in performance, but it got me a bit more stable. (Let me do lower NB volts mostly, though.)


----------



## JCushing

as far as i know its the multiplier for the communication of the nb/sb. considering most people with c2d's run well over 300fsb with it at its stock setting i dont think its holding you back with that 14 multiplier on your 820.

it was important on nforce4-5 chipsets for amd's and i think it just kinda got ported over into the intel chipsets but not really necissary.


----------



## gtboi604

I've personally tried it with my PentD, noticed no difference at all...couldn't OC further, wasn't more stable, couldn't lower the volts...
o well, maybe a feature only for C2D's...
D~


----------



## The Pook

Pentium D's don't pass 400FSB. You don't need it.


----------



## gtboi604

thx, ill keep that in mind when time comes to upgrade.
D~


----------



## Sanch3z

Thanks to Bognostaglum and dpawl31 for their tips... it took upping the NB voltage, 1.56. I am very glad it wasnt my powersupply.

I have my system stable at 3.2ghz for the time being, 400mhz X 8 fsb, stock RAM speeds. I will attempt more once I get a SB heatsink or fan.









I had an old AMD system sitting around and I took the 60mm heatsink fan off and am using that to cool my NB. I just put 2 screws in between the blades on the P5N-e sli NB to attach fan, many thanks to whoever posted that idea... That seems to be helping cool down alot of my temps, core temps seem to have dropped a few degrees <--since NB is close to core I assume?

not the greatest picture:


----------



## Asce

This so wants me to get mine running now, but i dont have the money to get the last parts


----------



## dpawl31

Pook- My goal for my D was 300 FSB (4.2Ghz) But for some reason it stalls @ 3.7Ghz, and even with full vcore and +100mv and full NB... can't even get 3.8 stable.

Sanchez I think that was me with the fan idea







I have a 60mm on there as well, cept I was lazy and didn't attach it, its sitting sideways on the top of my GPU, with it stuck in the wide slot on the NB. Works fine for 1.393v or whatever my NB one is.

Asce - What do you have left to buy?








I have some suggestions, if you haven't already bought theses things:
How about RAID-0 120 or 200GB instead of mismatched?
Forget the 3GB RAM, spend the cash on 2GB and a good CPU cooler (TT120?







)
Forget the Zalman... much better PSUs out there.

All these, on the assumption you haven't bought anything. lol.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys. Got the motherboard this morning and installed it. Up and running now. So far I'm quite happy. My RAM is actually running stock speed (667MHz 4:4:4:12 1T) which was a impossible feat on my old Gigabyte.

Just one little problem. My idle temperature is up by 8 degrees. I think it's cause my Zalman is further away from the rear case fan. On my Gigabyte it was about 2cm from it, sucking off/out all the heat, now it's like 4cm. Only thing I can think of. And there is no way I installed the Zalman wrong. I used the line method though, before I used the rice grain method. So either the line method sucks or it's the case fan theory. What you think?

Mobo temp is 32-33, CPU is 41-42.


----------



## dpawl31

What are your ambient temps?
Sounds to me like just a little too much paste. Was it AS5?
It also has to cure, which can account for 3-4C sometimes 5 or more. More likely 3-4C though.


----------



## Christiaan

It's 24 in my room. Yes, AS5. Used the line method from the AS5 site. I still remember this morning, same room temp, running [email protected], I was at 49 degrees. Idle would be around 34. And that's overclocked. I'm on stock now.

I think it was the stupid line method. Small rice grain FTW!


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Asce - What do you have left to buy?








I have some suggestions, if you haven't already bought theses things:
How about RAID-0 120 or 200GB instead of mismatched?
Forget the 3GB RAM, spend the cash on 2GB and a good CPU cooler (TT120?







)
Forget the Zalman... much better PSUs out there.

All these, on the assumption you haven't bought anything. lol.


I have to buy some RAM and my 8800GTS then im up and running.
I was getting a different kit to what im getting now, but im getting 2Gb to start ith. Im not bothering about the CPU cooler as the stock will do for a month or two until i get my watercooling kit through. Plus im going to revamp my HDD's, as i want a 150Gb Raptor then maybe one or two 750Gb for data backup







, im so greedy.


----------



## Christiaan

I'm gonna redo my AS5. Gonna do the small rice grain. Wish me luck!


----------



## dpawl31

My D temps are on par with yours.
33C and 42C idles.
But the difference is - I am @ 70F with 33C, and 78F with 42C.

But those temps on stock... somethings wrong I think.
I prefer to spread AS5 myself, instead of wait for the HS to do it.
If it doesn't push down hard enough, it doesn't spread correctly.
Use a credit card


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I have to buy some RAM and my 8800GTS then im up and running.
I was getting a different kit to what im getting now, but im getting 2Gb to start ith. Im not bothering about the CPU cooler as the stock will do for a month or two until i get my watercooling kit through. Plus im going to revamp my HDD's, as i want a 150Gb Raptor then maybe one or two 750Gb for data backup







, im so greedy.


I hope you are getting the 640MB version GTS.
Less than 512RAM is starting to show it's colors now.

Here are my suggestions, now that I know what you have:
2GB RAM, obviously D9s.
Are you talking single Raptor? Forget that. Raid 0 Perp. Drives will destroy the single raptor, in size and cost, and speed. 
Get Two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148136 for storage and two and two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148155 for your OS/Programs etc. 1.5TB storage, costs you $420 pre S&H... your Raptor + two 750GB = $670 pre S&H! That's $250 savings and 150GB less space, 1.5TB vs 1.65TB... And the raid0 drives will run better than a single raptor. And quieter too








Now that you've saved $250 on HDDs alone... get the GTX







And a better PSU!


----------



## Christiaan

Did the rice grain as before. Idle at 38 now. Better... but not quite there. I'll believe the extra 4 degrees are because the rear fan is further away now. You agree dpawl31?

Also. I've got the 0602 BIOS. Either my Gigabyte was wrong about my temps or the 0602 BIOS is broke with temps?


----------



## Kopi

Anyone push this beast into the 500's yet?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Did the rice grain as before. Idle at 38 now. Better... but not quite there. I'll believe the extra 4 degrees are because the rear fan is further away now. You agree dpawl31?












Kopi, get your AMD butt outta my thread. lol








(even though I just built 4 AMD's...







)


----------



## Kopi

haha ii still have the P5N foo...this is just a little fun rig. I dont like tearing apart my wire managed and expensive C2D rig.

Now anyone push it to 500 or what!!? We need a real amazing mobo tweaker to pick one up and figure out some kind of mod to allow uber fsb


----------



## dpawl31

No mod neccessary- just need a CPU that'll do it.


----------



## Kopi

Pook has a CPU that can, bogs out at 475fsb I think...i'll put it to the test once my review is over. So nobody has actually seen it do 500, other than reviews?


----------



## dpawl31

He needs to put it back in his old motherboard and see if it will still push over 500.
It's a 6300 right?
"Nevertheless, we were able to run our E6300 processor on a 500MHz FSB resulting in a 3.5GHz total clock frequency. This is the fastest frequency this processor has reached on any motherboard, so needless to say we are pleased with the P5N-E SLI. "
From Anandtech...

Plus - is he really whinin' about 175Mhz?


----------



## Kopi

Nope, i'm not concerned either. I'm going to run 3200mhz no matter what becausee I can do it at such low volts n it runs cold. He had run it at 3.6, i've seen PI and CPU-z's. Just curious...maybe I'll have to give'r a run.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I hope you are getting the 640MB version GTS.
Less than 512RAM is starting to show it's colors now.

Here are my suggestions, now that I know what you have:
2GB RAM, obviously D9s.
Are you talking single Raptor? Forget that. Raid 0 Perp. Drives will destroy the single raptor, in size and cost, and speed. 
Get Two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148136 for storage and two and two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148155 for your OS/Programs etc. 1.5TB storage, costs you $420 pre S&H... your Raptor + two 750GB = $670 pre S&H! That's $250 savings and 150GB less space, 1.5TB vs 1.65TB... And the raid0 drives will run better than a single raptor. And quieter too








Now that you've saved $250 on HDDs alone... get the GTX







And a better PSU!


Its the 320Mb version as i dont play at high res. 1280x1024 will be max. I want the Raptor for quicker boot times and loading BF2142. And i will be getting a drive of 500Gb or 750Gb backup. But that will be after getting my system up and running.


----------



## kramsnave23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Tips and Hints:
(In progress as of 4/4/07, please suggest!)
(Overclocking options can be found under JUMPERFREE Configuration-->MANUAL)

If you haven't already, check your BIOS and make sure you are running 03** series bios or higher. 0202 was first release and VERY flaky.
Enter RAM timings and voltage manually. Help stability.
Disable all features not neccessary, ie firewire etc.
Run Orthos or OCCT for 6+ hours at all stock settings to test for stabilty at stock, to make sure everything is OK at the norm. This will help you to not blame your OC for stability problems, such as forgetting to set your RAM timings and having the auto timings cause a failed OC.
FSB and RAM are already finalized values. Intel chips are QUAD pumped (QDR) and RAM is DDR. For example, if you have an 800FSB rated chip, your REAL FSB is 200Mhz (What CPUZ will display) but will display as 800FSB in BIOS. Same with RAM, but it is DUAL, so DDR2-800 RAM will display as 800 in BIOS, but 400Mhz in CPUZ.
When overclocking, run a 1:1 divider for stability. This can be achieved by using UNLINKED mode and MANUALLY entering 1:1 values, ie 1000FSB and 500DDR, or you can choose LINKED-->SYNC Mode to run a 1:1 divider.
AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.
To find your MAX CPU overclock without overclocking RAM, to eliminate it as the cause of a failed overclock, use full UNLINKED mode, to allow you to manually set your RAM to its full speed without overclocking it. This will allow you to UP the FSB as much as you need.


Hey wassup man I would like to know more about how do i overclock the p5n-e sli thanks bro


----------



## mcogan10

the p5n-e is a tremendous overclocker - private message me if you need any help! welcome to ocn!


----------



## goody24

Help! Not sure what i did.

I built my system last week. It has been running great, got a nice OC on it. I got an 8800 GTS yesterday, installed it - no real issues, except i found my mb temps rising to 58c - NB and SB were really hot to the touch. Overall the system was running fantastic.

So today i decide to replace my NB heatsink with a thermaltake spirit. To install it, i had to pull everything apart to get the screws in under the mobo. I get it reassemled, hook it up and i get an error in the bios:

"CMOS checksum error - defaults loaded"

I start stripping pieces out until its the mobo, ram, hd, cpu (and new cooler on but not plugged in) and i still get the error.

I popped the battery and unplugged it for a bit - nothing.

I tried going into the bios and reflashing my it - nothing.

Anyone have a clue what i did and how to correct it?

**************************
Update: I think i am ok now. I am booting and just had to reset my OC. The only thing i did when it started booting was to loosen up the bolts on my spirit. Dumb questin, but is it possible to overtighten them?


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


No mod neccessary- just need a CPU that'll do it.



FSB 2001 Mhz came untill win but no more. I guess that myby 0,1% of those MBs are able to run with that FSB.
I am trying to change that and that's why mine is going under soldering iron. Because of lack of time, do not know when I could post some results.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goody24*


Help! Not sure what i did.

So today i decide to replace my NB heatsink with a thermaltake spirit. To install it, i had to pull everything apart to get the screws in under the mobo. I get it reassemled, hook it up and i get an error in the bios:

"CMOS checksum error - defaults loaded"

I start stripping pieces out until its the mobo, ram, hd, cpu (and new cooler on but not plugged in) and i still get the error.

I popped the battery and unplugged it for a bit - nothing.

I tried going into the bios and reflashing my it - nothing.

Anyone have a clue what i did and how to correct it?


Possible memory malfunction. Test your memory modules one by one. Also run a memtest. Try different slots. Had the same problem with Corsair mem kit.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:

I want the Raptor for quicker boot times and loading BF2142.
Two 7200 drives will out-speed the raptor for sure... faster boot times and faster loading BF2142. And you'll get more storage, for less money, and faster speed.
But if you prefer the single raptor...









Quote:

Hey wassup man I would like to know more about how do i overclock the p5n-e sli thanks bro
Just hang out here. You will leaan my son. lol.

Goody, yeah when you mess with the board you'll lose settings, via bios jumper, battery, just being unplugged I find I get checksum error. Save your stable OC to a profile or file before doing internal work, then if you get the checksum for whatever reason you can just reload your OC


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Pook- My goal for my D was 300 FSB (4.2Ghz) But for some reason it stalls @ 3.7Ghz, and even with full vcore and +100mv and full NB... can't even get 3.8 stable.

Sanchez I think that was me with the fan idea







I have a 60mm on there as well, cept I was lazy and didn't attach it, its sitting sideways on the top of my GPU, with it stuck in the wide slot on the NB. Works fine for 1.393v or whatever my NB one is.

Asce - What do you have left to buy?








I have some suggestions, if you haven't already bought theses things:
How about RAID-0 120 or 200GB instead of mismatched?
Forget the 3GB RAM, spend the cash on 2GB and a good CPU cooler (TT120?







)
Forget the Zalman... much better PSUs out there.

All these, on the assumption you haven't bought anything. lol.

Zalman has top notch PSUs man.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Zalman has top notch PSUs man.









I don't recall seeing them on JohnnyGurus Tier 1, 2, OR 3...


----------



## The Pook

They didn't test a lot of PSU's.
I don't even think they reviewed it.

I have one coming up and the review for it have been nothing but kick ass. The rails are solid and constant - although it is a bit overpriced, I can't complain at the free price tag.


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goody24* 
So today i decide to replace my NB heatsink with a thermaltake spirit.









thermaltake spirit









Quote:


Originally Posted by *goody24* 
The only thing i did when it started booting was to loosen up the bolts on my spirit. Dumb questin, but is it possible to overtighten them?

they should be finger tight, if the little metal arms start to bend, its way to tight.


----------



## The Pook

Anywho.
I'm gunna lap my heatsink Saturday since I gotta be up at like.
6:30.







Gotta drive, from 7:30 to 9:30. Ack.

So, since I'll have the whole rest of the morning to afternoon to blow before hitting the trails with some of my friends - going to lap mah heatsink.

Might lap my CPU, but I'm not sure yet.


----------



## goody24

dpawl31 - great tip about saving profiles thanks! i had to go back and manually reenter everything. Next time i know better.

Jcushing - I wanted to grab something today and its the only NB heatsink/fan microcenter had today. Is there one you like better? i was thinking about ordering the zalman from newegg along with a sb heatsink.


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah profiles are great, and when you save them, even if you flash to a new bios, they stay put!









Pook, happy lapping.

And dare I say, "happy trailssssss.... to youuuuuuuuuu, untilllll we meetttt, again!"


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Two 7200 drives will out-speed the raptor for sure... faster boot times and faster loading BF2142. And you'll get more storage, for less money, and faster speed. 
But if you prefer the single raptor...










I rebuild my system nearly every 6 months when XP starts going slow. And i always have a second hard drive for backing up data etc on.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys. I only got a small overclock going for now. Orthos passed for about 20 minutes.








Got it at 3Ghz @ stock voltage 1.25v. 150FSB (600) and RAM thank you Asus! At 300 (600) at 3:3:3:9:1T.

I'm so happy with this board. You guys have no idea. Gigabyte truely sucks.







I couldn't tune the RAM timings nor set it at any speed. I had to use limited multipliers. And then to top it off. I couldn't get the RAM passed 590MHz.

Also, the CPU speed is spot on in CPU-Z. Showing 3000MHz. On the Gigabyte it could vary the CPU speed by a few MHz constantly.

Many thanks to you guys for this thread. I'm so happy! ^_^

Oh also. I took the voltage settings off auto for everything. Set it manually. What is the NB stock voltage? I selected the 1.2*** or something. It was the minimum one I could choose.

Oh and CPU with [email protected] at 48 degrees. It's not as cool as before, but still good enough. Will get me some TriCools which should suffice.

Any CPU coolers you guys recommend? Since my Zalman seems to suck?


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *goody24* 
Jcushing - I wanted to grab something today and its the only NB heatsink/fan microcenter had today. Is there one you like better? i was thinking about ordering the zalman from newegg along with a sb heatsink.

the hr-05 from thermalright is signifigantly better than the thermaltake. if you want something for the SB anyway then just move the TT to the SB and grab a hr-05 for the NB. i bought the thermaltake from newegg cause they were out of the hr-05 for a long time and i didnt want the SLI version. when i RMAd the thermaltake they just happened to have the hr-05 in stock again so i grabbed that with a 60mm fan. no difference in MB idle temps but the load temp doesnt go up at all now, with stock and the thermaltake under load the MB temp would go up a good amount.

also be weary of the fan for the TT. if it starts making a ticking noise its gonna die.


----------



## dpawl31

As far as CPU coolers, my Freezer7Pro is great... but if I hadn't got it for $30 I would have got the Tuniq Tower.


----------



## Kopi

As far as CPU coolers, see my sig. Should be up in about a week or so time. You guys will see plenty of my dear P5N-e
















So glad I chose this board over DS3


----------



## JCushing

thermalright ultra 120 is prolly the best out there, tuniq, scythe, zalman all make pretty good ones too.

http://www.anandtech.com/casecooling...spx?i=2978&p=5

click that for results


----------



## SSJVegeta

I'm getting an Unknown Device in Device Manager under XP.

I've installed all of the drivers for the P5N-E. Anyone know what this device is?



















I don't have anything installed in the standard PCI slots except the USB ports you get with the motherboard.

Thanks.


----------



## dpawl31

I got that similar problem when I hadn't had the USB drivers installed correctly.
Did you upgrade to SP2 or are you running VISTA? If you are on XP, Get SP2 so you can install the USB 2.0 drivers. They won't install w/o SP2 and it is easy to just click OK when it says it won't install w/o SP2... you think it was the "Install done" but it was the "dude, get SP2!" prompt. lol. That's what I did,


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys. I'm not sure if I should cry.
Bumped up the speed some more. I'm at 1.425v at 3.4GHz.

All seems okay? No, firstly. On my Gigabyte. I got 3.5GHz with the same voltage. Secondly, it's running 10 degrees celcius hotter than it was on the Gigabyte.
What the heck is going on?

It's not about the "burn in" of the AS5. Right after I lapped my CPU a few weeks ago. My temps immediately dropped by 8 degrees. Then the morning I got the Asus, my Gigabyte was busy folding. Temps sat at a nice 49 degrees. Installed the Asus and now my temps are alot higher. Running Orthos now, which yes, does make the CPU warmer, but it was never this warm. It's at 61 degrees!

Is this huge temp increase because of my rear fan sitting a bit further away now or what's the issue? The Zalman is nice and snug against the CPU and I used very little AS5, since I lapped the CPU. I know I asked it before, but I'd like to hear from more guys what they think. If it is the case, I'll get some Antec TriCools or other recommendations. Just anything that'll help suck off the heat from those fins.









Basically all I want to confirm is, yes or no. Will the rear fan being further away now give me such temperature rises? You can see in my sig what case I have. It has two 120mm fans, specs according to the Antec website.
Fan Specs:
- RPM: 1200
- CFM: 38.94

Wow, that was a mouthful. Thank you.


----------



## The Pook

Ambients are probably different. 
Plus, the board needs higher voltage for stable OCs. I could use much less voltage on my 965PT board as well.

People seeing why I'm not a huge fan now?


----------



## Christiaan

Yes, I see why you not a fan.








But I actually tuned down the AC. It's 23 degrees in my room atm. And CPU is 61.


----------



## Kai-

Whats the best bios version for this board. I'm on 307 atm, but if a newer version is better in someway(Stable, ect) I'll upgrade to it.

So whats better than 307


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kai-*


Whats the best bios version for this board. I'm on 307 atm, but if a newer version is better in someway(Stable, ect) I'll upgrade to it.

So whats better than 307


It's newer. Use it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Yes, I see why you not a fan.








But I actually tuned down the AC. It's 23 degrees in my room atm. And CPU is 61.


Then the only logical thing is turn down voltages or reseat the HSF.







61C is nothing to worry about though. Start worrying come 75C.


----------



## Christiaan

I did reseat, made a improvement, but only cause I used very little AS5 this time and I'm not worried about that temp. It's just. It was in my Gigabyte... it ran sub 50. Now it's in the Asus and running 60+. That's all I'm moaning about.


----------



## JCushing

maybe its not really the same voltage....


----------



## Nevaziah

put a fan on the chipset. It's weird but I was getting insane temps. I lowered the voltage to 1.40 and put a small fan on the huge chipset fan and te temps lowered significantly to around 58 C under load.

Your temps shouldnt be that bad, I know the smithfield does run rather hot(i had one i sold to a buddy). if it's 61 under load, it's "acceptable". try reseating the hsf like pook suggested and the fan on the chipset.


----------



## gtboi604

there must be something wrong with your HSF seating or the paste u put on.
if ur sig is correct and your using the 805, like i am, then u need to recheck everything.
my 805 running right now is 3.8Ghz with 1.425v +100mv.
my idle temps are bout 40C, loading is bout 60C.
check and reseat everything...it could be the CPU cooler not doing a good job. im using the Artic Freezer pro 7. that could be the difference.
D~


----------



## gg_Malkavian

I have this mobo and I think It died after 3 days of usage... now when I try turning it on, nothing happens. The PSU (Zeus 750W) turns itself off right away and the light in the back becomes red instead of orange (standby) or green (in use).

I dismantled the whole computer. Even with only the mobo connected on the PSU with the 24 and 4 pins connectors and the POWER SW wires from the case connected to it, same thing ; the PSU turns itself off and the light on the back becomes red...

Here's what I tried and the results (all those tests where done having only the mobo connected to the PSU):

- 2 different PSUs, they turn themselves off too

- a different CPU, same problem...

- a different case (!!), same problem...

- I tried my PSU on my little brother's computer and it works fine

- I tried my CPU on another mobo and it works fine too

My mobo is brand new ffs and it worked great for 1 week... why would it stop working just like that?? it's a Asus P5N-E BTW.

I had my E6600 OCed to 3.2GHz...

Should I RMA it right now? Or is there something else I can try?

The thing is that I got this mobo from newegg and I'm Canadian so it's a f*cking pain in the ass to RMA that thing...


----------



## Kopi

Malkavian...what background is that name?

Sounds like you've troubleshot it well, and its looking like mobo. Does the little green light on the motherboard come on at all? Can you try your rig on an entirely different mobo?


----------



## dpawl31

Malk, sadly sounds like RMA.
Maybe try a new MB switch, maybe yours is faulty? Otherwise, RMA


----------



## pheoxs

@Malkavian

have you tried using just a single stick of ram? You never listed checking the ram (unless i missed it) and that maybe causing you some issues. Have you also tried clearing the CMOS?


----------



## Christiaan

How accurate is Asus Probe suppose to be with my motherboard temps? It reads 34 degrees celcius, but when I touch it, I can make breakfast on it. I put a 80mm fan for now on there to cool it down and, surprise, surprise. My CPU temperature came down as well.

What do you guys recommend with the stock NB heatsink? Just get a 40mm fan on there?


----------



## DonNiger

You touch what? I guess you are touching NB heatsink. NB is not MB.


----------



## The Pook

My CPU is running hot as hell too...but I never really paid attention to it.

Kopi was getting ~35C idle at 3Ghz with his XP-90, and at 2.8Ghz with 1.15v I'm getting 42C idle - at 3.2Ghz with 1.38v I'm getting 48C idle. :***:

I'm going to reapply AS5 and check the flatness of my HS and CPU to see whats up..

I applied AS5 a good 20 times with varying methods, still gave high/higher results. Bleh. I hate temps.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


You touch what? I guess you are touching NB heatsink. NB is not MB.


I guess I should've said NB. I figured you would know what I mean, plus I said NB in my last sentence. And MB temp should be NB. All making sense now?


----------



## dpawl31

34C ~ 93F.
40mm would help, anything is better than just the HS. 
If you haven't already- apply AS5 to the NB HS and reseat. 
Stock thermal is JUNK on that, and all Asus boards too.

MB Temp = Average of NB/SB. So if you are getting a 34C MB temp, then your could essentially have a 24C SB and a 44C NB. (example only)

That being said... I doubt you could cook breakfast on 111F skillet. (lol)
Is it WARM, or HOT. If it's HOT, and hurts your finger - it's not 34C.

Asus probe is spot on with my Speedfan/everest temps.
Uses the same sensors most likely.
Check your temps from Probe vs speedfan and everest.


----------



## loyolacub68

Anyone try the new bios 0604?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loyolacub68*


Anyone try the new bios 0604?


Yeah a couple people have like ... 15 pages ago lol? This thread is getting huge.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


34C ~ 93F.
40mm would help, anything is better than just the HS. 
If you haven't already- apply AS5 to the NB HS and reseat. 
Stock thermal is JUNK on that, and all Asus boards too.

MB Temp = Average of NB/SB. So if you are getting a 34C MB temp, then your could essentially have a 24C SB and a 44C NB. (example only)

That being said... I doubt you could cook breakfast on 111F skillet. (lol)
Is it WARM, or HOT. If it's HOT, and hurts your finger - it's not 34C.

Asus probe is spot on with my Speedfan/everest temps.
Uses the same sensors most likely.
Check your temps from Probe vs speedfan and everest.


They all report same temp and it burns.







With the 80mm blowing on it, it's alot better. So I'll get a 40mm or 2







to put on there. And I have some AS5 on there, it was the very first thing I did and a Zalman heatsink on SB. Though I see it's messing with SLi. I won't be able to put in a second card. It's too high.


----------



## loyolacub68

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Yeah a couple people have like ... 15 pages ago lol? This thread is getting huge.



Umm....dont think so, this bios just came out on friday.


----------



## Christiaan

Yeah, I think he meant the 0602 is 15 pages back.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *loyolacub68*


Umm....dont think so, this bios just came out on friday.


Oh sorry i was thinking of 0602.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
They all report same temp and it burns.







With the 80mm blowing on it, it's alot better. So I'll get a 40mm or 2







to put on there. And I have some AS5 on there, it was the very first thing I did and a Zalman heatsink on SB. Though I see it's messing with SLi. I won't be able to put in a second card. It's too high.

Whats the MCP voltage at?
What is your FSB at?


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I guess I should've said NB. I figured you would know what I mean, plus I said NB in my last sentence. And MB temp should be NB. All making sense now?










The MB temp sensor does not locate inside the NB, but just next to the first PCI-E socket. NB is running hot, the temp is around 70c if you do not use extra fan next to it. No problems if you use inbox cooler (or any other cooler, which blows also towards the NB heatsink) and do not overclock. Otherwise, you fry it.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Whats the MCP voltage at?
What is your FSB at?


You referring to the NB voltage? It's at the lowest setting. 1.208v.
FSB is at a amazing 700.






















Gotto love that low starting FSB of the 805. A amazing 533.
















Will a Antec 40mm fan do? Specs: Antec 40x40mm , 2 ball bearing, 4550rpm, 28dba
And how would I go about putting it on there?

Second question. Will the SB be fine without a heatsink? As I stated in a previous post. I have a Zalman heatsink on there, but I wasn't sure of the placement of the SB and now I see it's going to be a issue when I need to install a second graphics card.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


The MB temp sensor does not locate inside the NB, but just next to the first PCI-E socket. NB is running hot, the temp is around 70c if you do not use extra fan next to it. No problems if you use inbox cooler (or any other cooler, which blows also towards the NB heatsink) and do not overclock. Otherwise, you fry it.


I have been told it is down there as well, ONCE before.
Everyone else says its the average of NB/SB...which makes more sense, since when you up NB voltage, the MB temp goes up. 
Anyone have any







as to where MB temp resides?


----------



## Ictinike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Oh sorry i was thinking of 0602.


Just an FYI.. I flashed 0604 tonight and instantly had issues. Once bootup my PCI-E card went haywire and on most boot-up's the system had some serious issues. DEP was firing errors, disk errors, BSOD's, services failing..

I tried to revert back to the 0602 flash and the Asus Updater told me the date was older than the current BIOS and to use the CMOS flasher which is what I'm doing now but be aware. Have a copy of 0602 on CD or other media (would not read my USB Flash stick) so you can use the EZ Flash in the BIOS to restore if you have issues.


----------



## Nevaziah

I ARE BACK IN TEH P5NE-SLI CLUBZ!!!

And my new board from RMA hit 3.5GHZ!!! 500MHZ FSB FTW!!!!


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


I ARE BACK IN TEH P5NE-SLI CLUBZ!!!

And my new board from RMA hit 3.5GHZ!!! 500MHZ FSB FTW!!!!










Congrats Nev, and WB!!!


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


I ARE BACK IN TEH P5NE-SLI CLUBZ!!!

And my new board from RMA hit 3.5GHZ!!! 500MHZ FSB FTW!!!!











Lucky one. Which rev you have?


----------



## Kopi

OMG NO WAAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!11!1!!!one!1!!1!

What rev, how do I find my rev, how many volts, what settings WE NEED TO KNOW! CANADIAN OC'ers FTW!

I just got an HR-05 SLI from a member...can't wait to pop'er in there.


----------



## Farmerjoe

I haven't read all 169 p ages of replies, so perhaps this has been asked before. There was something about some RAM issues with this board right?, but what exactly was/is the problem? Should I look for RAM running at a low stock voltage, avoid some branches or what? I'm thinking of buying some cheap PC6400 A-Data RAM (2GB for something like 130$) or some cheap Geil RAM from overclockers.co.uk (I don't know whether I want to buy there or not though







)


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nevaziah*


I ARE BACK IN TEH P5NE-SLI CLUBZ!!!

And my new board from RMA hit 3.5GHZ!!! 500MHZ FSB FTW!!!!


----------



## Kopi

Anything but OCz Platinums and some old Supertalents dont work well, other than that you should be fine! @ Pook, yeah...i know. lol


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 









HAH!

Hater! lol.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ictinike* 
Just an FYI.. I flashed 0604 tonight and instantly had issues. Once bootup my PCI-E card went haywire and on most boot-up's the system had some serious issues. DEP was firing errors, disk errors, BSOD's, services failing..

I tried to revert back to the 0602 flash and the Asus Updater told me the date was older than the current BIOS and to use the CMOS flasher which is what I'm doing now but be aware. Have a copy of 0602 on CD or other media (would not read my USB Flash stick) so you can use the EZ Flash in the BIOS to restore if you have issues.

Ouch, that sounds really bad, then again, the driver is still in beta so be careful, I'm still using the 04xx version and its working just fine for me, no plans to update unless a issue comes up


----------



## b1gapl

Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my overclock. I had it at 3.2GHz (400MHz FSB), with 1.40625V on VCore, 2.013V on memory, and 1.563V on NB. My ram's timings are at 5-5-5-18 with the Trc at 22. At those settings, it has been freezing, and restarting at random times. So now, I've upped the VCore to 1.4125V. Any comments? I'm on 0401, by the way. I've also ran the SMP folding client, every time my computer started. Also tell me, if you need anymore information.

That is so incredible, Nevaziah. Mind telling us, your settings and BIOS versions?


----------



## Christiaan

Is your NB actively cooled? Mine was passive and it could burn my finger if I held it there long enough. Fan helps a lot. Could be causing the restarts and freezing.

Also, I currently have a issue where my PC would shutdown by itself. Turns out to be my PSU. Maybe you could try another PSU?

Last thing, if you go back to stock, does it still freeze and restart?


----------



## JCushing

ram at 800MHZ i suppose? normally restarts are indications of thermal overload... i had the fan go on my NB cooler before (crappy thermaltake) and it made my comp lock up..


----------



## b1gapl

My NB is actively cooled, with two 40mm fans on the stock heatsink. My temps are like 45C idle, 51-55C load, during folding. I can't try another PSU, as I don't have another, but I don't think thats the problem. I don't know which temp is the NB, in everest though. I assume it's the motherboard temperature? Which is currently at 35C. Yes, the ram is at 400MHz (800MHz).


----------



## Christiaan

MB is apparently somewhere near the first PCI-E slot. Some say the average of the NB and SB. No one really knows.









I say, just let your finger do the measuring.









RAM, possible, I got some weird issues when my RAM didn't get enough voltage, maybe up it a notch.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


HAH!

Hater! lol.


----------



## b1gapl

OK, so I tried upping the VCore to 1.41875V, and the memory to 2.178V. Gave me the black screen, and I just said forget it. So I'm back to 3.1GHz (388MHz FSB), use to have it at 1.35V at this setting, but decided to use auto, 1.393V on the NB, and 1.92V on the memory.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*












Hah!










*b1gapl* Try getting EVERYTHING what you had before when you ran into issues - then set vdimm to AUTO.
Trust me, sound odd... but guess what - it did the trick for me! Even stopped my memory errors.


----------



## PeaTear Griffen

Is anybody having problems with the e-sata not working? I just bought a Rosewill RX353 enclosure and i have a WD 1600JD sata drive in it. For some reason the USB works fine but the e-sata wont recognize the drive. Do i have to install the JMicron drivers for it to work? I'm running a RAID 0 on the nForce drivers, but im not sure if i have the JMicron installed. Is there a way to check? Thanks for the help,

GriFF


----------



## Kopi

I just got an HR-05 SLI! Can't wait..is it safe to run 1.5nb core 24/7?


----------



## JCushing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I just got an HR-05 SLI! Can't wait..is it safe to run 1.5nb core 24/7?

great choice, im really impressed with my HR-05 (non sli). i was so im pressed i bought a HR-03 too!

i woudlnt worry about 1.5v, i think setting it to 1.7 all the time might be a bit much.


----------



## Sanch3z

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe* 
I haven't read all 169 p ages of replies, so perhaps this has been asked before. There was something about some RAM issues with this board right?, but what exactly was/is the problem? Should I look for RAM running at a low stock voltage, avoid some branches or what? I'm thinking of buying some cheap PC6400 A-Data RAM (2GB for something like 130$) or some cheap Geil RAM from overclockers.co.uk (I don't know whether I want to buy there or not though







)

Corsair memory 2gb kit @ $104 after rebate that IS on the compatible list for this mobo:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PeaTear Griffen*


Is anybody having problems with the e-sata not working? I just bought a Rosewill RX353 enclosure and i have a WD 1600JD sata drive in it. For some reason the USB works fine but the e-sata wont recognize the drive. Do i have to install the JMicron drivers for it to work? I'm running a RAID 0 on the nForce drivers, but im not sure if i have the JMicron installed. Is there a way to check? Thanks for the help,

GriFF


If JMICRON is installed it adds a JMICRON TECHNOLOGY CORP. folder to the start menu.


----------



## PeaTear Griffen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


If JMICRON is installed it adds a JMICRON TECHNOLOGY CORP. folder to the start menu.


Thanks dpawl, I installed the driver and the e-sata works as its supposed to. Thanks for the help. Rep to you


----------



## dpawl31

Damn I am good! hah.
Never run a RAID setup in my life either. haha.

You're Welcome,





















!

(I hope someone OTHER than him gets that joke, as his name IS the joke)
Family Guy FTW!


----------



## PeaTear Griffen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Damn I am good! hah.
Never run a RAID setup in my life either. haha.

You're Welcome,





















 !

(I hope someone OTHER than him gets that joke, as his name IS the joke)
Family Guy FTW!


GameTime on the pictures...good find!























And yes, Family Guy FTMFW!

GriFF


----------



## Malachi_6

I just got this mobo two days ago with an E6320. I'm just using the stock heatsink on the NB atm, but I installed a Zalman NB32-K on the SB, and I have another one just in case the NB one is too hot during OC. Just working with the CPU, have it at 2.66Ghz easy, but haven't had enough time to properly stress it. Haven't updated my sig system yet, but I also got a CNPS9500 instead of stock.

Do people think the NB32-K would be better than the stock heatsink?


----------



## dpawl31

Stock HS on NB really isn't all that bad- just reseat it with fresh AS5


----------



## Malachi_6

at 1.393V for NB and running Orthos doesn't even raise NB temp above 38C. It didn't really look too bad to me. They might have updated the design, I dunno. But my MB still had the crappy 0202 BIOS though. (Flashed it already)

Update: at 3.15Ghz, but at 1.45 Vcore. I've heard it should run well at 1.4V but what's the concensus at 1.35V? Is 1.4V only necessary for 450FSB+? Idles at 38C and load at 49C at 1.45V.

Edit: seems 1.45Vcore raised idle to about 40C. I have an room temp of about 24C. How much should idle be higher than room temp on average?


----------



## JCushing

speaking of the SB, a coworker of mine was looking to order one of these MOBOs and i mentioned the lack of a SB cooler, he said it had one. im like duh i have this board and it doesnt come with one! but then he showed me the pic on newegg and it showed a SB cooler. so maybe theres a new revision out there now?


----------



## b1gapl

Yea I just looked at it, and theres a heatsink on the SB.


----------



## dpawl31

Wow... what a piece of crap on Asus' part.
1) Why the heck didn't they do it in the first place.
2) That thing is godawful ugly, and HUGE! hah.
3) Looks like EVERY HS off Socket 478 boards... except for those short black ones!


----------



## Christiaan

Hi again guys.









I am back once again. I was checking out some heatsinks and came across this. Click me

Do you think it would work good on the SB? It's actually a VGA cooler for a 6600/GT chipset? lol It's quite flat. So it might work. As you know I already have a Zalman on my SB, but it's too high for SLi.


----------



## elwoodps

Hi All,

I'm currently using Speedfan 4.32 for lack of anything better, but it only displays the core 0 and core 1 temps. I tried Core Temp 0.95, but when I couldn't get it to work I read the docs and discovered that it requires Win XP.
















Any suggestions will be sincerely appreciated.

Elwood


----------



## Christiaan

I believe something called TAT. (Thermal Analysis Tool)

I found a download link here: Click me

If I'm wrong, please post the correct program/download link.


----------



## Malachi_6

TAT hasn't worked for me. I have TAT v2.05 installed, but each time I load it up, I get this error message: "Error enumerating On Demand Clock Modulation support. Terminating tool."

I'm sticking with speedfan at the moment.

And I've gotten to 3.15Ghz now. Tried 3.29Ghz like x-bit labs, and posted, but couldn't load up XP. So I'll stick with 450FSB for the moment. Now to push the RAM.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I just got an HR-05 SLI! Can't wait..is it safe to run 1.5nb core 24/7?

It's OK on stock cooling.


----------



## elwoodps

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I believe something called TAT. (Thermal Analysis Tool)....

Thanks Christiaan, but I've already tried TAT and got the same error message reported by Malachi_6. Naturally, when I got around to reading the docs I found that it too requires XP.









Thanks Malachi_6 for your input too and to all who've taken the time to read about my problem.









Does anyone know if there's a way I can configure Speedfan to display my Q6600 core 2 & 3 temps?

Elwood (the win2k orphan







)


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I believe something called TAT. (Thermal Analysis Tool)

I found a download link here: Click me

If I'm wrong, please post the correct program/download link.









TAT was speciffically written for Pentium M chips and not accurate on Core archetecture CPUs. It measures the wrong value for the C2Ds- I think it probes the T_junction and not the T_case or T_max.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...about-tat.html


----------



## artos72

Greetings,

I am about to attempt my first OC and being new at this had a few general questions.

What kind of temp increases can I expect? IE - What is considered the norm at both idle and load? I currently get about an 8c difference between idle and load.

Next, being that my chip has a max of 533 on the fsb I am assuming will have to downclock my RAM. Will I need to readjust my timing and/or RAM voltage to compensate or just sync it to 1:1 and let bios do it's thing.

Lastly, how much if any of a preformance decrease can I expect from the slower RAM?

Sorry for the noobish questions and any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Kopi

Normal load you should keep below 55c for safety, but it can be as high as 60. 60 is pushing it though....keep it below 55









You should get a decent increase in temps...10 or more degree's wouldn't be uncommon but it depends on your chip's stepping and revision, require for higher voltage, and the sort.

A max FSB of 533? Once you overclock it that should rise...or is that your highest achievable FSB? You wont see a performance decrease in having slower ram. All DDr2800 does is give you a leeway for having higher ram speeds. You will be able to tighten (lower) your timings which will slightly improve performance, but that is somewhat advanced.


----------



## Christiaan

Welcome artos72.
I have the same CPU as you and I have the Zalman 9500. So we should get the same temps about. At 3.5GHz I get 59 degrees @ a insane voltage which I shall not mention.







Cause my PSU is faulty and I suspect that's why I needed such insane amounts of voltage. Luckily my new PSU will be here tomorrow!

Secondly. I ran my RAM the same speed as my FSB up to 3.5GHz. In other words. At 533FSB my RAM was at 533MHz and at 700FSB, which you'll reach at 3.5GHz, my RAM was at 700Mz.

The guys on here will suggest a 1:1 ratio between the RAM and FSB. I'll explain how it works quick. FSB's speed is quad pumped. Meaning it's times 4. 700MHz FSB would be 175MHz actual. RAM at 700MHz would be 350MHz actual since it's only doubled.

So having a 1:1 FSB, ratio will mean having the RAM at 175MHz when FSB is at 175MHz. So it'll look like this. 700 FSB, 350 RAM. I personally don't like doing it this way and running my RAM the same (effective) speed as my FSB is best for me as my performance is alot better.

Hope that made sense.








Ask if you have any other questions.


----------



## artos72

Thank you very much for the response. The info helped me greatly.


----------



## Kopi

You even confused me Christian







, JK, good explanation.


----------



## Christiaan

Haha, thanks Kopi. Still getting used to helping peeps on here.
It's great though. Spreading the knowledge.


----------



## artos72

Alright so just to summarize and see if I am understanding this correctly since I am at work and not near my PC until later..These are the bios settings I should be doing later

In the jumperless config section of BIOS:
Voltage @ 1.4
FSB @ 175 (or do I manually set this to 700 with a 1:1 ratio?)

I have the whole quad pumped thing down just unsure if I am correct in my understandting that bios reads the ACTUAL speed which will differ from Cpuz. What confuses me is the actual reading between the post screen and Cpuz.


----------



## Nevaziah

um, fsb to 1750 lol, then set the ram to Linked. it will automaticaly do a 1:1 ration and have your ram running around 875mhz, and your cpu around 3.0Ghz


----------



## dpawl31

NEV! Jesus man don't tell him that!
He has a Pentium D 805!!! 20x multi! It's not a C2D...

Artos, set it to 700 and your ram to 350.
1750, as Nev said, would be 437.5mhz, which is fine for something like a C2D with a low multi... but yours is 20! 20x437.5 = 8.75Ghz!


----------



## Nevaziah

oopsies









Edit: why do I keep assuming EVERYONE who has LGA775 has C2Ds







...?
what He said...


----------



## artos72

ok. Now I am lost again. heh.

The setting is BIOS should be 1750 on the FSB?? (if this is true then setting it to 1:1 will only double it yielding 3.5ghz and RAM will stay at 875mhz?)

I think my brain is melting. But thanks for the assistance all...I am sure with your help I will grasp this eventually


----------



## artos72

LOL!! Thanks DPAWL...was posting while you were freaking and probably imagining my PC bursting into flames.

but the voltage should be at 1.4 still correct?

**EDIT** and what?? You are telling me that 8.75ghz isnt a good goal to shoot for??? =)


----------



## Christiaan

LOL!









Okay. Firstly, take it easy! Start slow. Increase the FSB by 5-10MHz in the BIOS at a time. Boot into Windows and run Orthos (just Google it







). If it doesn't give a error in 10 minutes. Restart, go into BIOS and crank up FSB more. When you get a error in Orthos, up CPU voltage. Keep that up till you reach your desired clock speed or heat becomes a issue.

Note: Intel lists the 805's max safe voltage as 1.4v. I needed 1.45v to reach 3.5GHz, which kinda tees me off since another guy reached 3.8GHz at 1.4v.







Or was it 3.6GHz? Anyhow, he is at 4GHz now at 1.55v! Lucky.









Hope that helps.


----------



## artos72

Excellent. the baby step method. I am starting to grasp all this.

So last question...I think...

Just upping my FSB a few notches at a time with the ratio to 1:1 will take care of the RAM setting of its own yes? Meaning I really don't have to do anything as long as I keep the ratio @ 1:1.

And yes, you are all tremendously helpful and I cannot tell you how much I appreciate it.


----------



## Christiaan

Yes, just make sure it's the correct 1:1 setting.







As those settings can get confusing. You will see the RAM's effective speed in the BIOS though, so just make sure it doesn't go too high and you should be set.


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:



Originally Posted by *artos72*


ok. Now I am lost again. heh.

The setting is BIOS should be 1750 on the FSB?? (if this is true then setting it to 1:1 will only double it yielding 3.5ghz and RAM will stay at 875mhz?)

I think my brain is melting. But thanks for the assistance all...I am sure with your help I will grasp this eventually










Sigh.. Well, this proves the theory. Never take my advice before Noon...

Sory about the confusion Artos. The way that Intel processors work is this:

You have your clock speed 2.66Ghz
You have your FSB 133Mhz
You have your multiplier 20X
and you have your EFFECTIVE bus at 532Mhz

Now, the effective bus is the FSB multiplied by four. 
the problem is SOME boards show you the FSB, SOME others show you the effective bus. which means you adjust the number depending on which board you have. The P5NE-SLi allows modification of the EFFECTIVE bus.

So, lets say on your cpu you want 3.8Ghz. you set the effective bus to 760
which means your FSB is 760 divided by 4 = 190Mhz. your multiplier is 20X, which means your effective CLOCK speed is now 3800Mhz or 3.8Ghz!!!!

tell me if that makes sense.....


----------



## artos72

AHA!!

Lightbulb is now shining brightly in my skull. Thanks again Nev and everyone else.

And no advice from you before noon. Got it.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nevaziah* 
oopsies









Edit: why do I keep assuming EVERYONE who has LGA775 has C2Ds







...?
what He said...

lmao its so true! I do it too...someone has a P5B deluxe or something I automatically assume they have a C2D...weird eh?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *artos72* 
AHA!!

Lightbulb is now shining brightly in my skull. Thanks again Nev and everyone else.

And no advice from you before noon. Got it.









Looks like artos is going to be a good member here


----------



## artos72

UPDATE....

First OC'ing attempt yielded some pretty odd results. I managed to get this thing stable at 3.25.

some oddities I cant figure out:

I was able to go to 3.33ghz and run Orthos stable but when I tried to reboot BIOS would not post. I upped the voltage all the way to 1.4 and still nodda so I brought it back down to 3.25ghz. I started at here at 1.3v and the ting stayed stable so i figured no need to up the voltage.

Now, any idea why I was not able to get Bios to post when I upped the fsb to 667 but it would run orthos fine just would not reboot and post. Even if i cranked the voltage.

I think there may be room in this chip still but what am I missing?


----------



## dpawl31

im at work on my cellphone Just Wanted To Say A Few Things. Lots Of Things Could Be Keeping You From A Higher Block But Its Too Hard To Type On My Phone Lol. Nev Sorry I Freaked Lol Just Didnt Want His Board Not Posting And Have Him All Lost Lol. Art Os You Are Learning Quick. Ill Help You More When I Get Home In Three Hours!


----------



## artos72

Many thanks dpawl and no rush. I wil be around at that time. Thanks again and btw...your typing on your cell is better than I can do with a keyboard.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *artos72*


UPDATE....

First OC'ing attempt yielded some pretty odd results. I managed to get this thing stable at 3.25.

some oddities I cant figure out:

I was able to go to 3.33ghz and run Orthos stable but when I tried to reboot BIOS would not post. I upped the voltage all the way to 1.4 and still nodda so I brought it back down to 3.25ghz. I started at here at 1.3v and the ting stayed stable so i figured no need to up the voltage.

Now, any idea why I was not able to get Bios to post when I upped the fsb to 667 but it would run orthos fine just would not reboot and post. Even if i cranked the voltage.

I think there may be room in this chip still but what am I missing?


I assume you are saving your OC's to profiles just incase you need to clear CMOS









Try 700FSB, 3.5Ghz
Is your RAM @ 1:1?
Set vcore to 1.4 again.
Try Running RAM @ 2T if you aren't already.
If that doesn't work - try 800Mhz RAM unlinked.
I assume you also manually set your RAM timings.
Set voltage to AUTO for your RAM- oddly enough this did the trick to get me from 3.5 to 3.7.
No need to take vdimm off auto unless your ram is rated for less or you are overclocking it.

With all this in mind- I really want to try 4Ghz on my chip now. 
I am really phsyced I think if I go 2T I might have a better chance of pushing it some more. There is no reason I can't because the first run- D820 pushed over 4Ghz... haha - RAVIN!


----------



## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I assume you are saving your OC's to profiles just incase you need to clear CMOS









Try 700FSB, 3.5Ghz
Is your RAM @ 1:1?
Set vcore to 1.4 again.
Try Running RAM @ 2T if you aren't already.
If that doesn't work - try 800Mhz RAM unlinked.
I assume you also manually set your RAM timings.
Set voltage to AUTO for your RAM- oddly enough this did the trick to get me from 3.5 to 3.7.
No need to take vdimm off auto unless your ram is rated for less or you are overclocking it.

With all this in mind- I really want to try 4Ghz on my chip now. 
I am really phsyced I think if I go 2T I might have a better chance of pushing it some more. There is no reason I can't because the first run- D820 pushed over 4Ghz... haha - RAVIN!


Alright..trying again. To answer your questions..
I am not saving my Oc's. I am writing them down.
after hours of searching I finally found the correct timing for the RAM, yes I set it manually. Lastly I will take off +100 and see what's up.

Here are my RAM timings...
DDR2 800 / F2-6400PHU2 - 2GBHZ

FSB SPEED1066
DDR2 SPEED800
VOLTAGE2.013v
TCL4
TRCD4
TRP4
TRAS12
CMS 1T / 2T2T
TRRD1
TRC2
TWR2
TWTR6
TREF1
TRD2
TRFC27
ASY LAT2

wish me luck!


----------



## dpawl31

LOLZ! Writing them down... just save them, OC Profile 1 or 2!
When you clear CMOS, even flash it or remove the battery - it's STILL there.









If you write them down - you'll forget to reset ram timings, boot sequence, anything... no good!


----------



## Kopi

I have mine set to

1)3200mhz, 4-4-4-8-2t, 1.4v, 1.5nb volt ran at 1:1
2)1866mhz, 5-5-5-12-2t, 1.35, 1.393nb volt, ran at 1:1 (troubleshooting mode)


----------



## dpawl31

^ I think he forgot to mention he set his OC PROFILES to that.

That's exactly what I do, except Profile 2 is my "stock" mode, and my Profile 1 is my last 100% stable overclock. If I am attempting to go higher, I my highest stable to a file, and save my last successful attempt to profile 1. Once's its stable, I save that to Profile 1.


----------



## Kopi

Yeah..note that profile 2 is stock, just with manual timings and voltage


----------



## artos72

WOOT!!

We are orthos'ing @ 3.5!! I will let you know in 10 minutes. =)

It did not work linked..had to un-link and set the RAM to 800 adn the fsb to 700.
vcore is @ 1.4
offset is on auto
RAM voltage is on auto.

We are cruisin.









We may have 4.0 in the near future eh?


----------



## Kopi

American saying eh!!

*tear*


----------



## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


American saying eh!!

*tear*


LOL!! I am from Northern Michigan. We are allowed....I think it's actually a law.


----------



## Kopi

Quick question to you artos, hows the 9700 sit with that NB heatsink, cutting it close or no?


----------



## artos72

clears it by a good centimeter.


----------



## Kopi

Good to hear, I should be strapping mine on soon.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Good to hear, I should be strapping mine on soon.


SIGGED! ROTFL...

Anyway, hows Orthos goin Artos?


----------



## Malachi_6

Lol, I'll tell you a funny story about my experiences with this mobo. I think I was on the second day of OCing my new rig, increasing FSB from I think 350 to about 380, cause I'd heard that was fine amongst most with a similar setup. So I entered 2660(!) in the BIOS Quad FSB. Lol. Refused to post. Still hadn't worked it out yet. I was tired so, yeah.

Tried to return to original settings after a few more attempts at lower speeds, entered 2450. Still refused to post. I was like what the hell? It was stable just the day before.

I think it STILL took me about 10-15 minutes to realize I'd been trying to run my E6320 at 4.65Ghz and 4.29Ghz. Lol.

Their design is just plain confusing. But yeah.

I don't know about the story with this board and pentiums, but I'm think the FSB hole still hasn't been fixed, cos I'm running 0602 revision BIOS and I think I was trying ~400 (proper values this time), and repeated couldn't get to POST, but went straight to 450, and POSTed, benchmarked, and stable.

So yeah, with regards to that, I don't know whether pentium has the same problems or not, but it's worth keeping in mind I think. What's dpawl's experience been with this?


----------



## Kopi

lmao only you would sig that dpawl...only you


----------



## artos72

3.5Ghz without a hitch. Processor stable and a cool 42c....now for the reboot test. This is oddly where I sometimes hang up.

.......Waiting for PC to reboot.......

WE HAVE POST!! sweeeeet!

Why do I feel like I just gave birth??

Now...how much farther should I try pushing this?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


lmao only you would sig that dpawl...only you












As far as experience with FSB holes, I honestly don't know where that are with this board, mostly because my FSB is sub-300. 265Mhz gets me 3.7Ghz.

My eventual goal for the D is 300FSB, 4.2Ghz... but something is being tricky.
I will attempt 4Ghz tomorrow, just such a pain to clear CMOS I need to cut myself a nice cmos clear switch


----------



## Kopi

GO GO GO NEVER STOP.

10fsb at a time, 10 minutes orthos, unstable raise the volts and go 30 minutes. Repeat.

Thats my OC strat usually...however, with my C2D...lol...

I immediately went for 2.8ghz...i'd read so much about how they were performing I knew I could handle it, and I did...haha


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *artos72*


3.5Ghz without a hitch. Processor stable and a cool 42c....now for the reboot test. This is oddly where I sometimes hang up.

.......Waiting for PC to reboot.......

WE HAVE POST!! sweeeeet!

Why do I feel like I just gave birth??

Now...how much farther should I try pushing this?


God, I love helping people! haha.
I would say anything over 3.5 you are going to have troubles, but 3.8Ghz is the highest I have heard with a D805 on this board.
I'd say start shaping 3.5Ghz to a nice setup (ie try going 2T now)


----------



## artos72

uhh...isn't going over 1.4 on the vcore destined to make my pc use a breath of fire spell on my legs?

*edit* I am @ 2T already and 800 Mhz on the RaM, 4-4-4-12


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



GO GO GO NEVER STOP.


As he stares at the pile of old burnt up cpus in his closet.
lol, jk! Try as hard as you want, go as high as you can!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *artos72*


3.5Ghz without a hitch. Processor stable and a cool 42c....now for the reboot test. This is oddly where I sometimes hang up.

.......Waiting for PC to reboot.......

WE HAVE POST!! sweeeeet!

Why do I feel like I just gave birth??

Now...how much farther should I try pushing this?


God, I love helping people! haha.
I would say anything over 3.5 you are going to have troubles, but 3.8Ghz is the highest I have heard with a D805 on this board.
I'd say start shaping 3.5Ghz to a nice setup (ie try going 2T now)

*EDIT*
Artos let me introduce you to the REP+ button








Anybody, ie Kopi or Christiaan etc. make sure you REP them if they help you








Keep in mind- it has to be OCN/PC related. No repping people for makin jokes lol


----------



## artos72

1T makes my RAM impersonate a rock.

I swear, when I first got this set it was like my Mobo and my new RAM where on a blind date and I had to spend hours convincing them to get along.









in any event...we are at 3.55 and testing. I shall keep you posted


----------



## dpawl31

I am off to Pirate 3... shweet.
G'luck with the OCing Artos!








I am gonna go to 2T and up vcore and try 3.8Ghz right now, if it fails - I'll clear CMOS when I get home @ 3am LOL


----------



## Malachi_6

Well, our family pc is a P4 540, and since it's one of those preorder systems, no OCing, but it's about 6-7 years olds, and I don't know how long, but I have reason to believe that the current temps have probably been pretty consistent. It runs at about 87C according to Speedfan. Pretty long lifespan.

Unfortunately, since I only learned the ways of the OC recently, it was already out of warranty when I checked the temps properly. Lol, six years ago, I'm lucky to answer what BIOS stood for correctly half the time.

I'm just waiting for that system to kick it so I can build together a new one again. Yeah!


----------



## 2long4u

My buddy got this board and took it back the same day and got a evga.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *2long4u*


My buddy got this board and took it back the same day and got a evga.


Did he get a dead one?


----------



## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I am off to Pirate 3... shweet.
G'luck with the OCing Artos!








I am gonna go to 2T and up vcore and try 3.8Ghz right now, if it fails - I'll clear CMOS when I get home @ 3am LOL


Have fun and good luck seeking 3.8 thanks again for all your help. I will keep you all posted on my progress.


----------



## artos72

UPDATE..

Stable 3.6 and now bedtime. I will mess with this more tomorrow after work.

A side question..I am monitoring the temps while I run Orthos using PC Wizard 2007. My CPU temp is at 42c but my Mainboard temp skyrockets to 57-58c during the stress test. What is max tempt for this board?

good night everyone and my eternal thanks for teaching me how to do this.


----------



## Christiaan

Oddly, my MB temps never breaches 34 on load. Idle's 31 and lower.
I think PC Wizard has things mixed up for you. Your MB temp is your CPU and your CPU is your MB. Got you confused yet? Good!









Got a question myself. Could somebody please go back a few pages and answer my question about a heatsink I found and it's possible use on my SB?









Thank you.
Thank you very much.


----------



## artos72

Thanks Christiaan. I was unaware that PC Wizard shared the same confusion.

Does anyone reccomend another temp monitoring program?

And sorry, I cannot aid you on your heatsink question as I am still learning all this myself.


----------



## JCushing

coretemp .95 works for me for the CPU, otherwise speedfan. unfortunatly my cpu has been running on the hot side as the programs i was using (coretemp .94 and speedfan) dont show my cpu temp correctly.

as far as the MB temp thats pretty high, mine never goes over 34 (and thats when its 25c in the house) you might want to get some better airflow on the NB put a fan on it or replace it with a better cooler.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hi again guys.









I am back once again. I was checking out some heatsinks and came across this. Click me

Do you think it would work good on the SB? It's actually a VGA cooler for a 6600/GT chipset? lol It's quite flat. So it might work. As you know I already have a Zalman on my SB, but it's too high for SLi.










The Thermalright HR-05 SLI works great on the SB and NB of this board. See here
In order to work in SLI setup, simply rotate the Heatsink out of the way


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Good to hear, I should be strapping mine on soon.

Im going to sig it as well


----------



## artos72

Yes I agree the temps seem high. I wish I could find a program that would tell me the actual temps as speedfan and core temp seem iffy.

This case is not the best for airflow. I was thinking of replacing the stock fans with something that pushes more air, or am I wasting my time?

If do decide to go that route and it does not help I will replace the NB heatsink.

Heh, maybe I should buy the Antec 900 and be done with it!









Thoughts anyone?


----------



## Kopi

I was going to say I'll be mounting mine this weekend, but I figure that wouldn't go down to well...i thought i was safe with that quote...guess not!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hi again guys.









I am back once again. I was checking out some heatsinks and came across this. Click me

Do you think it would work good on the SB? It's actually a VGA cooler for a 6600/GT chipset? lol It's quite flat. So it might work. As you know I already have a Zalman on my SB, but it's too high for SLi.










I wouldn't...It wont be any worse than passive, but it can't be that much better either...if you're looking for a budget one check this out, "I'll be strapping this one on later" too...

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5196&CatId=498


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I'll be mounting mine this weekend


Not with this one







I would have my rig running if it wasnt for my car needing to go into the garage


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I was going to say I'll be mounting mine this weekend, but I figure that wouldn't go down to well...i thought i was safe with that quote...guess not!

I wouldn't...It wont be any worse than passive, but it can't be that much better either...if you're looking for a budget one check this out, "I'll be strapping this one on later" too...

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applicatio...5196&CatId=498


Thanks for the suggestion. Problem is, I took a look at all suggestions. I can't get these things locally. Guess I'll have to "mod" my current Zalman. Timber!


----------



## Kopi

haha go for it, what are some stores locally that you have?


----------



## artos72

Alrighty...here we are. The final report on my first OC.

Was able to hit a stable 3.65!!! So I thank all that helped me. Any higher than that it starts getting a little freaky. I decided not to push too much further because I am a little concerned about my temps.

I Dl'd speedfan and finally got some correct readings. I am at 39c idle, 45c on my normal load and 55c under max load.

Should I be concerned about these temps? Am I doing any possible damage to this chip? According to Intel...this chip is rated at a thermal spec of 64.1c. I am usually running at 18-20c below that.

My voltage is set to 1.4 but has not risen above 1.38v on the monitors.


----------



## Kopi

Thats fine. Your load of 55c will never be achieved during games or anything like that so you'll be just fine. Gerat overclock...damn thats alot of geegahurtz


----------



## artos72

great news! Glad to hear the chances are minimal of my PC doing its "bursting into flames" party trick.

And thanks for the many many geegahurtses...I could not have gotten them without all your help.

Now lets see if I can resist the urge to further feed the tweaker in me.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


haha go for it, what are some stores locally that you have?


Sybaritic
Prophecy
Digital Planet

These are the three online shops I use. Between them I can usually find whatever I'm looking for. Thanks to Prophecy I got my OCZ.









Oh and I started overclocking again last night. Currently at 3.6GHz. Orthos running, temps at 62 degrees. No idea of voltage, I've been upping the voltage a notch at a time since last night. For some reason, going from 3.5GHz to 3.6GHz requires insane amounts of extra voltage. lol

I'm gonna take off the Zalman and reseat it again. Gonna try different things. Like running it dry. My CPU is lapped.

And using very very little AS5. I just can't get my pre-Gigabyte temps back. Which were 52 degrees with Orthos at 3.5GHz.


----------



## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Oh and I started overclocking again last night. Currently at 3.6GHz. Orthos running, temps at 62 degrees. No idea of voltage, I've been upping the voltage a notch at a time since last night. For some reason, going from 3.5GHz to 3.6GHz requires insane amounts of extra voltage. lol

I'm gonna take off the Zalman and reseat it again. Gonna try different things. Like running it dry. My CPU is lapped.

And using very very little AS5. I just can't get my pre-Gigabyte temps back. Which were 52 degrees with Orthos at 3.5GHz.



That seems a little high to me being we have the same board/cpu. What kind of voltage are you pumping through there? I was able to get to a semi stable 3.7 with a little over 1.4v.

I am running smooth at the moment at 1.4v and 3.65Ghz.

Good luck with the reseat...keep us posted.


----------



## Kopi

Like you said, upping the Vcore that much is probably whats doing it. As for those stores, Christaan i never knew you lived in South Africa, thats cool.

I would use this site...
http://www.prophecy.co.za/-c-1_2_9.html

For your southbridge any of these would do, i would go abouts on taste. If asus put it bare, then anything will be great. Personally, I like that blue one, or the vantec.


----------



## nick69

My good god!! How long is this thread!!!!









Right guys, I aint reading through this lot as I just read 200 pages on how crap the Fata1ty is as I was going to get that!








I want SLi, Quadcore compatible etc. Shall I buy this board??

Nick

Oh and I found lots of smilies!!


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nick69* 
My good god!! How long is this thread!!!!









Right guys, I aint reading through this lot as I just read 200 pages on how crap the Fata1ty is as I was going to get that!








I want SLi, Quadcore compatible etc. Shall I buy this board??

Nick

Oh and I found lots of smilies!!









If you're happy with 450-480FSB, it's a great board.
Some get over 480, but not many.


----------



## Kopi

Its great for SLI and Quadcore supports, but if you're going to dump that much cash into a board you COULD get a 680i. This board will do you more than you'll need from quadcore, the only thing that the 680i has it higher FSB, but with quadcore thats something that you shouldn't be too worried about reaching. The SLI features are almost identical, lets see what the others have to say.


----------



## nick69

I have only OCd my gfx yesterday so my cpu will wait till i can afford a new one!! LOL
Id be happy with mid 400 fsb and it seems to have lots of features. Plus its Asus=reliable from what I can tell.


----------



## Kopi

I think the lowest cap i've seen is about 465 and thats pooker over there.


----------



## nick69

Thatll do me. Im going to buy it now!!


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I think the lowest cap i've seen is about 465 and thats pooker over there.











....
....
....
....


----------



## Kopi

haha thats not my fault...i dont know what my limit is..maybe il get 464 >_>

Doubt it...my board is the 600fsb board


----------



## nick69

Right its been ordered.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Like you said, upping the Vcore that much is probably whats doing it. As for those stores, Christaan i never knew you lived in South Africa, thats cool.

I would use this site...
http://www.prophecy.co.za/-c-1_2_9.html

For your southbridge any of these would do, i would go abouts on taste. If asus put it bare, then anything will be great. Personally, I like that blue one, or the vantec.


It's right there next to location.









And, I currently have the blue one. But it's too high for SLi.
I was thinking of tuning it. Maybe cutting off certain fins and bending some. Should work.


----------



## nirvania

i was installing the chipset drivers for this on 32bit vista, I reboot and get a blue screen regarding royal.sys and it says im trying to write on read only memory. Any suggestions?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I think the lowest cap i've seen is about 465 and thats pooker over there.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 









....
....
....
....




























Quote:


Originally Posted by *nirvania* 
i was installing the chipset drivers for this on 32bit vista, I reboot and get a blue screen regarding royal.sys and it says im trying to write on read only memory. Any suggestions?

Very strange - first time I've heard of that. Are you using any sort of USB or removable media(flash cards, not CD) to install the drivers?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
It's right there next to location.









And, I currently have the blue one. But it's too high for SLi.
I was thinking of tuning it. Maybe cutting off certain fins and bending some. Should work.

haha yeah im not too quick sometimes. I could see how it abstructs your SLI there...the vantec is a good choice then, its pretty low. How much is 80r?


----------



## nirvania

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*





























Very strange - first time I've heard of that. Are you using any sort of USB or removable media(flash cards, not CD) to install the drivers?


im installing it off my hard drive (downloaded from nvidia's site)


----------



## The Pook

Stop making fun of my 465FSB-ness. I'll rape your mobo through the interwebs with my hax if you don't.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Stop making fun of my 465FSB-ness. I'll rape your mobo through the interwebs with my hax if you don't.










Even my 1337 265FSB can block _your_ hax









Sadly, just because you ride Yamaha doesn't mean you are the best at everything. lol


----------



## artos72

2 day update...

OC still strong. Not a hiccup, sputter or crash during gaming. I think it is safe to say she is stable!!! I may attempt to go more when I get some better fans but for now I am happy where it is.

I cannot tell you all how much I appreciate the help. I have been planning these upgrades for 3 months and to finally see them in action and working as I intended is a testament to all the info I found in this community.

You guys rock!


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


haha yeah im not too quick sometimes. I could see how it abstructs your SLI there...the vantec is a good choice then, its pretty low. How much is 80r?


The Vantec is R88, soooo that's about $12. Good price, bad?


----------



## Kopi

Fine price. They're like 10 new here i think..


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Even my 1337 265FSB can block _your_ hax









Sadly, just because you ride Yamaha doesn't mean you are the best at everything. lol




















Goodbye goes your P: drive.








Next is your O: drive.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*











Goodbye goes your P: drive.








Next is your O: drive.










I saw you trying to hack in... then I took out my turtle and you ran away!










Bubba is my firewall backup!


----------



## Kopi

dude is that YOUR turtle?


----------



## dpawl31

One of them


----------



## artos72

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
One of them









I am disappointed in you dpawl...I half expected to see him with a cpu cooler strapped to his shell. What if he overheats????


----------



## Kopi

LOL a picture of that would be hilarious


----------



## dpawl31

ZOMG... Gimp here I come...
*searches for perfect pic of a Big Typhoon*


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys.

Found a strange thing. In CPU-Z under the Mainboard tab it said at the bottom. Link Width x8/Max Supported x16. Which I know should've been x16. Since I'm not running SLi.

Then I reseated my Zalman, also removed CPU to clean it. Put it back together. Now it says Link Width x16/Max Supported x16.

What caused it to show x8 in the first place and why is it x16 suddenly?

Just curious.









PS. I'm sure my games run a tad faster.









Oh, also! The RAM timings. I'm tuning the standard 4 ones and the command rate. I'm running at 3:3:3:9:1T, but what about all those others? Should I just leave them at auto or can I manage more performance by fine tuning those?

Thanks.


----------



## Kai-

If your able to find subtimings for your ram, then try putting them in. It should help stability a little.

Also according to most reviews that do sli, and compare the 8* sli lanes of the 650i to the 16* offered by 680i, there is no performance difference, so don't really think that game fps would increase.


----------



## Christiaan

Odd thing happened. I just increased my FSB to 700 CPU up to 3.5GHz from 3.4GHz and it's back to x8. Odd...

And yeah, FEAR runs exactly the same. Was just me thinking it was faster.









Restart and it's back to x16. What's going on? 

*edit*

Looky what I found.
Toms Hardware doesn't like our board


----------



## artos72

Interesting christiaan..and weird.

I am set just a tad higher than you (730 FSB) and I am stil at x16. Never once has it changed. I am alslo curious as to why.

As Kai mentioned, I do have my RAM subtimings changed as well. Not sure if that is it or not.

And Tom desnt have to like our board.._WE_ do!


----------



## Christiaan

Amen to that brother! Hahahaha.

I was wondering. I'm running my CPU at 3.5GHz now. Still running Orthos for stability. My CPU's temp would slowly climb. Let's say, it would reach it's max which is 57 degrees at the moment in about 5 minutes after starting Orthos. This after the PC has been on for a few days. So the temp in the case is at it's max.

Would the slow climb mean A) The heat transfer from the CPU is crap. It's slowly building up the heat on the CPU and not getting it out through the Zalman fast enough or B) The problem is the Zalman, it's heating up slowly to that point and only getting rid of the heat at that rate.

I am still convinced the increased temps I have is due to my rear fan being further away from the Zalman. Because before I got 52 max on my old Gigabyte. Now with the Asus, the Zalman is further away from the rear case fan. Now it's peaking at 57. Voltage is slightly higher, but I can't believe that the little difference in voltage can push the temp up by 5 degrees. I'm not sure myself, that's why I'm asking you guys!


----------



## Kai-

I get the feeling that toms hardware didn't try very hard with their review. Oh well, their loss.

Zalmans do tend to do far better with more airflow, so I'd say that is a factor. Try going down to your origional voltage and seeing if that makes a difference


----------



## Christiaan

Temp is obviously lower. But not the same.

I can feel with my hand, the area where the rear fan sucks. It's exactly where the fins of the Zalman were before. Not much suction from it's current location.


----------



## Kopi

I coulda swore there were options to chose either 8x or 16x in the nvidia control panel somewhere..i guess im wrong cause I couldn't find it just now. Probably a setting in the bios somewhere thats set to AUTO...maybe?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kai-*


If your able to find subtimings for your ram, then try putting them in. It should help stability a little.

Also according to most reviews that do sli, and compare the 8* sli lanes of the 650i to the 16* offered by 680i, there is no performance difference, so don't really think that game fps would increase.


I wouldn't say NO difference, there IS a difference, but it's somewhere in the idea of about ~5 FPS.









As far as that Toms Hardware review, none of it is in reference to the ACTUAL performance, it's only them whining about NB HS and lack of SB HS, and dumb things like onboard audio. Who cares? Anybody wanting REAL audio is going to get a secondary card anyway. No audio enthusiests will use onboard audio...

As far as your Zalman issue... I'd say it's the Zalmans fault. 
I have been told numerous times the 9500 series don't perform well unless massive amounts of case flow air can get to it, AND exit _fast._
I was told the only Zalman worth it is the 9700 series.
Yeah, I bet yours is pretty. I prefer my AC Freezer 7 Pro







I would have got a Tuniq or an Ultra 120 Extreme, but the Freezer was on sale for $30 and the Tuniq was not, and the U120Ex was not out as far as I remember.
And I would say with max load temps of 57C w/ ambient of 76F, the AC Freezer is outperforming your 9500. Course, I have a 900


----------



## Kopi

^ QFT

The Zalman series rely HEAVILY on case airflow. Im hoping mine is enough...


----------



## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


^ QFT

The Zalman series rely HEAVILY on case airflow. Im hoping mine is enough...


I am worrying about airflow as well Kopi...This is why I am leary about more OC'ing at present.

I am pondering tossing THESE in. Can we say 110cfm goodness?? I am willing to trade loud for a happy cooler pc.

I am just worried with these in my cat will be stuck to the front of my case from the intake vortex created by these.


----------



## dpawl31

Those are not that loud, really.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12tfexhisp.html
Now THAT is loud. 220CFM 120mm... 65dBA!








Almost 30 watts and nearly 2.5 amps! Jesus... lol


----------



## The Pook

Psssh. Good thing I'll be done with fans soon.









(Well, except for the ones on the rad.)
(And not really soon unless you consider by the end of the year soon.)
(I use a lot of parenthesis.)
(I think I spelt that right.)


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## dpawl31

Fans FTW!

(I hope you are putting lots of money into that WC setup or else it's not worth it)
(Pricey air > cheap WC)
(P5N-E > Pook)
(Mushrooms = Fungus)
(Pook = Pwnt)


----------



## The Pook

I'm probably gunna drop $220 easily...

My ambients are horrible that no air cooling "solution" could keep my temps in line OCed past 1.3v. I'm at 1.1v just to keep temps in my comfort zone. Cranking the AC would be so much easier (and cheaper), but I don't have control over it.









Ambients are anywhere from 28C on a good day, and climbing to 36C during the day. Higher than that with my other computer is on.









A mix between a hot running C2D and high ambients =


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## Christiaan

I think I'm going to replace my current case fans which are rated at:
- RPM: 1200
- CFM: 38.94
-dB(A): 24.85

And replace them with these:
Antec TriCool
Fan Specs:
- RPM: 2000
- CFM: 79
-dB(A): 30

Think that'll do the trick?

And about my Zalman. What would be better. Alu/Copper or All Copper?
Mine is all Copper and the 9700 is Alu/Copper.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I think I'm going to replace my current case fans which are rated at:
- RPM: 1200
- CFM: 38.94
-dB(A): 24.85

And replace them with these:
Antec TriCool
Fan Specs:
- RPM: 2000
- CFM: 79
-dB(A): 30

Think that'll do the trick?

And about my Zalman. What would be better. Alu/Copper or All Copper?
Mine is all Copper and the 9700 is Alu/Copper.

Non-Zalman FTW... lol. They do good and look great, but they don't do great.

I have 4 tricools and they are great.
On high they are a TAD loud, but once the TV is on I can't hear it








I use them on Medium tho, doesn't seem to gain any cooling on high.
On load yes, but I never stress it that much anyway, and my load temps on medium are WELL in the acceptable range.
It's about 57CFM on medium, ~ 1600RPM.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I think I'm going to replace my current case fans which are rated at:
- RPM: 1200
- CFM: 38.94
-dB(A): 24.85

And replace them with these:
Antec TriCool
Fan Specs:
- RPM: 2000
- CFM: 79
-dB(A): 30

Think that'll do the trick?

And about my Zalman. What would be better. Alu/Copper or All Copper?
Mine is all Copper and the 9700 is Alu/Copper.


Get some SilenX fans. 72CFM (or 74) at 14dBa...


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Well the Antec Tricool 120mm fans that came with my case are pretty quiet and keep things chilled. I just don't like having to clean the dust filters so much


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Get some SilenX fans. 72CFM (or 74) at 14dBa...


Don't you love SA? We don't have that brand.









And keep bad mouthing Zalman and I'll have to be getting violent.


----------



## JCushing

i got a silenx 92mm for my hr-03... sweet fan.... id buy up some 120s in a heartbeat if i needed them but i currently have all antec tri cools.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Don't you love SA? We don't have that brand.









And keep bad mouthing Zalman and I'll have to be getting violent.
















See if CyberD will ship to ya.









He has a thread open in the for sale section.


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## dpawl31

I bet he would. SilenX are the ShizNit.


----------



## Christiaan

Alright. I'm done with my overclock. For now.








I have reached my heat limit. Orthos passed for over 10 hours.

CPU at 3.5GHz with a 700FSB, RAM also at 700MHz with 3:3:3:9:1T timings.
Voltages:
VCore - 1.38125v +100mv
Memory - 2.178v
NB Core - 1.208

CPU loads between 55 and 58. Depending on room temp. Currently folding, CPU at 55 and room temp is 26. Idles at 41.

Busy doing CPU-Z now and will put in my sig.


----------



## Kopi

Awesome! Glad we at the P5N-e SLI thread could be there to walk you through it. Now you should be an expert, or at least know a fair amount of the process involved.

Woot go you!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Alright. I'm done with my overclock. For now.








I have reached my heat limit. Orthos passed for over 10 hours.

CPU at 3.5GHz with a 700FSB, RAM also at 700MHz with 3:3:3:9:1T timings.
Voltages:
VCore - 1.38125v +100mv
Memory - 2.178v
NB Core - 1.208

CPU loads between 55 and 58. Depending on room temp. Currently folding, CPU at 55 and room temp is 26. Idles at 41.

Busy doing CPU-Z now and will put in my sig.









Why are you running your RAM @ 700Mhz?
1:1 refers to base numbers, and in your case that is 175Mhz FSB and 350Mhz RAM. 175:350 is 1:2, a pretty hefty divider.

I would suggest putting your RAM @ 350Mhz.
That will give you 1:1, which will give you more stability AND you can probably tighten those timings some more (allthough those are pretty damn tight already!)
4:5 is my preffered divider once finally OC'd to max, as it lets the RAM run a bit faster, but still close to 1:1 for stability.

If you didn't know this already - CPU = Quad pumped, so your FSB is 175*4=700Mhz (in bios)
Your RAM is dual data rate, which means 175*2=350Mhz (in bios)

You should also be able to lower your vdimm since you will be way under ram speeds @ 350Mhz.
I know you are waiting on some new cooling, so when you get that I suggest 1:1 and go to 2T, with stock timings.
Maybe you'll push past me and go for 4Ghz, ya bum! My chip stalls right @ 3.7... I may try some suicide runs someday @ 4.2Ghz haha... (300FSB on my D!)

On that note - doesn't anybody have a list of the known FSB holes? I think 265Mhz may be the beginning of one... I'd like to try FSB over the edge of that hole.
It's really the only explanation for me not being able to go higher, I am @ 3.7Ghz w/ 1.4v, and I can't even get to 3.8 w/ 1.7v (1.6v +100mv).
I know the chip can do it- I've seen 4.2Ghz on a D820 plenty of times...


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## artos72

Hmm...Nice OC Christiaan.

Here are my stats...I notice dpawl mentioning a 1:1 for stability.

CPU - 3.65
FSB - 730
vcore - 1.4v
RAM - 800 Mhz @ 4-4-4-12 2T (voltage set to auto)
Ratio - 11:24

I know I have more room and this is very stable as is. Would you all suggest I try to tighten the RAM a bit?


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## Kopi

11:24 ratio ROFL


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## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


11:24 ratio ROFL


umm..Kopi when you get up off the floor and can breath again would you mind expanding a little? Don't forget I'm the noob here...


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## dpawl31

8...9...10... Knockout! Kopi, down for the count!

Anyway... 11:24 is because you are running 182.5:400
No sense in that, at all. LoL.

Set RAM to 365 (182.5*2) to run 1:1
Then you can jump to, say 750FSB, 375 RAM (still 1:1) and that will get you 3.75Ghz


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *artos72*


umm..Kopi when you get up off the floor and can breath again would you mind expanding a little? Don't forget I'm the noob here...










Huge ass ratio.


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## Kopi

Just such a random ratio...I could see stuff like 1:2, its double, 3:1, its a third, whatever. Normal ratios. But 11:24 LOL...so large numbers. Chose sync mode or whatever and run it 1:1


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## dpawl31

I'll say it again, just to explain it better.
Our BIOS shows in FINAL values, as in what the effective FSB and RAM are.
DDR2-800 RAM is actually 400Mhz, run @ dual data rate, which means its really 800Mhz. But the 400Mhz is the # you use when referring to RATIO/DIVIDER.

As far as the CPU - Intel chips are QUAD pumped. Your D805's stock FSB is 533, which is REALLY 133.25Mhz * 4. For referencing RATIO/DIVIDER, you use the pre-quad pumped #, 133.25Mhz.

So, at STOCK settings, your CPU would run 133.25Mhz, and your RAM would run (in 1:1) @ 133.25Mhz. 133.25 is considered 133, same as 266.5 is considered 266Mhz.
Anyway, so in OUR bios, since it displays the EFFECTIVE speeds, you would set (@ stock) 533Mhz FSB and 266.5Mhz RAM. 
For 1:1, the settings in our BIOS should always have the FSB DOUBLE the RAM number, because FSB = 2 * RAM speed, since the ram is only doubled and the CPU FSB is quadrupled.

Hope that clears some things up for you guys!


----------



## artos72

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I'll say it again, just to explain it better.
Our BIOS shows in FINAL values, as in what the effective FSB and RAM are.
DDR2-800 RAM is actually 400Mhz, run @ dual data rate, which means its really 800Mhz. But the 400Mhz is the # you use when referring to RATIO/DIVIDER.

As far as the CPU - Intel chips are QUAD pumped. Your D805's stock FSB is 533, which is REALLY 133.25Mhz * 4. For referencing RATIO/DIVIDER, you use the pre-quad pumped #, 133.25Mhz.

So, at STOCK settings, your CPU would run 133.25Mhz, and your RAM would run (in 1:1) @ 133.25Mhz. 133.25 is considered 133, same as 266.5 is considered 266Mhz.
Anyway, so in OUR bios, since it displays the EFFECTIVE speeds, you would set (@ stock) 533Mhz FSB and 266.5Mhz RAM. 
For 1:1, the settings in our BIOS should always have the FSB DOUBLE the RAM number, because FSB = 2 * RAM speed, since the ram is only doubled and the CPU FSB is quadrupled.

Hope that clears some things up for you guys!


Right I got that much about the whole quad cpu/dual ram deal from our Oc'ing convo a few days ago when I started.

So my new question is...keeping this Kopi killing ratio is actually detrimental to my speeds and/or stability?

Will my RAM not be slower at a speed that is equal to my cpu? Or will I not notice a difference....


----------



## dpawl31

Detrimental to stability - yes. 
Detrimental to speed- no - unless its hurting stability, which inhibits your OC, which hurts your speed









1:1 is not the BEST option for a finalized OC.
1:1 just offers best stability to attain your HIGHEST CPU OC.
After which, getting a nice divider, close to 1:1 but still running RAM faster, will help.
400Mhz is a bit much for your 182.5Mhz FSB though, which is why Kopi was









I would run something like a 4:5 or 5:6 divider, so you are still close to 1:1 to stay stable, but running your ram a slight bit faster will give you a few more points in some benchmarks


----------



## artos72

gotcha. thanks for the clarification. So now...in BIOS...

Since it displays my final FSB/RAM speeds (it does the whole quad/dual equation for me) Should I keep it linked, unlinked or synched?


----------



## dpawl31

Linked will give you strange ratios. (1:1 in linked will give you 730:730, which is really 1:2, which is almost what you are at now!)
Sync is really 1:1.

Run it UNLINKED, and run something that gets you a good divider.
4:5 is decimal of 0.8. I SUCK @ math, but you'll need 182.5 divided by SOMETHING to give you a decial of 0.8. That will give you a 4:5 ratio. You may need to adjust your FSB a little to get a good number to divide into









*reminds me of algebra class,







*


----------



## artos72

wait...i have that lightbulb feeling in my head again.

Are you saying that I need to do the whole quad/dual equation and THEN enter the results into bios? All while keepnig the proper ratios?

EDIT - at a 730 FSB @ 1:1 i cannot get it to post...but at 750 FSB (in BIOS) @1:1 it posts just fine. My ratio is 1:2 in cpuz...blah. not sure why this works but a slower fsb does not


----------



## dpawl31

Remember I said 1:1 linked in BIOS is really 1:2?
To stay 1:1, just take whatever your FSB is @ in BIOS, divide by 2, and enter that as your RAM speed.

For example: 730FSB / 2 = 365.
Enter 365 as your RAM speed in BIOS.

*RAM:* 365/2 = 182.5Mhz
*FSB:* 730/4 = 182.5Mhz

Effective 1:1!

750Mhz FSB (3.75Ghz) would be 750FSB and 362.5RAM, I forget if it rounds down or up... but try 363 if that doesn't work (if CPUZ shows something besides 1:1) try 362.


----------



## artos72

right...now BIOS is being weird. It will only let me enter certain numbers in the FSB/RAM speed in the jumper free config.

Even tho I am setting it to unlinked it will not allow me to enter anything under say 533...so I am assuming I will be entering the results of the x4/x2 deal.

for instance...

my BIOS will not allow me to enter 365 for RAM spd. it autofills it at whatever the hell it feels like.


----------



## dpawl31

Then you are not in unlinked








That's linked!

And yes, you are entering effective speeds, as in AFTER the 4x and 2x deals


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *artos72* 
right...now BIOS is being weird. It will only let me enter certain numbers in the FSB/RAM speed in the jumper free config.

Even tho I am setting it to unlinked it will not allow me to enter anything under say 533...so I am assuming I will be entering the results of the x4/x2 deal.

for instance...

my BIOS will not allow me to enter 365 for RAM spd. it autofills it at whatever the hell it feels like.









Memory holes.
Some sections are unavailable with your current FSB. The independent is just an easy way to set a custom ratio - after a certain amount of work it will just round up to the easiest thing to do.

Older motherboards have bigger memory holes than newer ones.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Memory holes.

Maybe that's what my dad has had since he turned 50, years ago?


----------



## artos72

heh.. i get there and I am considerably younger than he is.

Ok...my RAM timings will not go below 400 inBIOS I am assuming because it is DDR2 800....(800/2 = 400))

I got a ratio of 15:16 which is pretty freakin close to 1:1 just not sure if the numbers being so high matters or not. I am @1.4v and Orthos crashed big time.

I am at 750 of the FSB and 400 on the RAM. I am going to try upping the voltage a tad and see if that works.

Any other suggestions?


----------



## Kopi

15:16 is so close lol....run unlinked and in sync mode, that automatically puts you at 1:1!!


----------



## artos72

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
15:16 is so close lol....run unlinked and in sync mode, that automatically puts you at 1:1!!

How do you run unlinked and in sync mode...If I choose unlinked it sets the ratio to "auto" and grays it our so I cannot touch it.

*EDIT* and the new setting is 700 FSB, 400 RAM for a ratio of 7:8 and 3.5 ghz. I was able to drop my volts to 1.35v and this ended up taking 5 degrees off my max temp @ load and 2 degrees off idle.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Why are you running your RAM @ 700Mhz?
1:1 refers to base numbers, and in your case that is 175Mhz FSB and 350Mhz RAM. 175:350 is 1:2, a pretty hefty divider.

I would suggest putting your RAM @ 350Mhz.
That will give you 1:1, which will give you more stability AND you can probably tighten those timings some more (allthough those are pretty damn tight already!)
4:5 is my preffered divider once finally OC'd to max, as it lets the RAM run a bit faster, but still close to 1:1 for stability.

If you didn't know this already - CPU = Quad pumped, so your FSB is 175*4=700Mhz (in bios)
Your RAM is dual data rate, which means 175*2=350Mhz (in bios)

You should also be able to lower your vdimm since you will be way under ram speeds @ 350Mhz.
I know you are waiting on some new cooling, so when you get that I suggest 1:1 and go to 2T, with stock timings.
Maybe you'll push past me and go for 4Ghz, ya bum! My chip stalls right @ 3.7... I may try some suicide runs someday @ 4.2Ghz haha... (300FSB on my D!)

On that note - doesn't anybody have a list of the known FSB holes? I think 265Mhz may be the beginning of one... I'd like to try FSB over the edge of that hole.
It's really the only explanation for me not being able to go higher, I am @ 3.7Ghz w/ 1.4v, and I can't even get to 3.8 w/ 1.7v (1.6v +100mv).
I know the chip can do it- I've seen 4.2Ghz on a D820 plenty of times...

I run my RAM at 700, because I see it as a awful waste to run my beloved Corsair XMS2 at 350MHz effective. xD
I'll try it. Test performance differences. I have no stability issues at the moment. Soooo. Yeah. We'll see.

PS. 350MHz is so slow. -_-'

*edit*
Okay, so I went in BIOS. I couldn't manage a 1:1.
These were the settings I got:
Unlinked - Lowest I could go was 400
Linked - 3:2 ratio 466.7
5:4 560
Sync mode 700
And I'm running the 1:1 option now which has my RAM at 700.

So even if I wanted to. I can't run 1:1 and the 3:2, 5:4 dividers are working off effective...

Also, I meant to ask. SLi broadcast aperture? What is that? And... Spread spectrum control and also my LDT frequency is x5. I think you guys said it's the frequency to the NB or...? Should I change it?

Thanks.


----------



## Qbert

Hello All,

*1st off - awesome&#8230;I mean awesome thread guys! * I don't even have my P5N-E system yet and am excited about getting into my 1st OC!

Ok, I was able to get up to about page 120 this week until the boss man came by told me to get some work done (go figure). He's actually pretty mello.

Since I was not able to read the rest, sorry if this link has been posted and you guys discussed already but I wanted to get some comments from the big hitters out here on what you guys think about what this reviewer/overclocker site did with the P5N-E. He basically unlinked and only upped the FSB and did not touch the memory or voltage, please read:

Link: http://www.legionhardware.com/document.php?id=625

It sounds so simple to just do what he says and mind you this will be my 1st OC so I don't feel the need to go to the extreme right off the bat (then again, give me a month or so and see what I say then, ok?).

Will this work and if yes, will the system not be as stable since the FSB will not be close to 1:1 with the memory (read here this causes stability probs)?

Also, notice from my system specs below I just got the basic Corsair memory for now and my CPU is an e6420. I read Pook's post on these not OCing well due to the 4mb catch after I purchased (kinda bummed out on that).

*1. Please look at the article and comment/have at it!
2. Any comments on my system?*

Thanks all, I look forward to being part of this board going forward more once I get the system next week!!!!


----------



## The Pook

The P5N-E is a breeze to OC, but it's not exactly a 100% OCers dream as it usually caps at around 480FSB. (Multi x FSB = CPU speed.)

Not sure how much you do or don't know, so if I'm cutting you short, just lemme know.

The board keeps the FSB at its quad rate, so divide the FSB you get by 4 to find out your actual FSB in the board. (ie 1066/4 = 266FSB).

OC by raising your FSB. Should get about 350 before you get unstable. Raise CPU voltage by two notches, raise NB voltage, and raise voltage for the RAM two notches if you want as well.

Keep raising until you can't go any further. If you're happy, up the voltages again (don't pass 2.2v on RAM without good RAM cooling, don't pass 1.5v on air cooling ((temps are more important, though. Keep under 70C load)) and keep the NB voltage at a max of 1.5xx volts unless you slap a 60mm fan on it.)

'Bout all you gotta do on this board.







Rig looks great btw.


----------



## mcogan10

welcome! i just fried my p5n-e by accident







. i think i bent a capacitor with the tuniq







. w/e, ill rma it then sell my old p5b.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *artos72*


How do you run unlinked and in sync mode...If I choose unlinked it sets the ratio to "auto" and grays it our so I cannot touch it.

*EDIT* and the new setting is 700 FSB, 400 RAM for a ratio of 7:8 and 3.5 ghz. I was able to drop my volts to 1.35v and this ended up taking 5 degrees off my max temp @ load and 2 degrees off idle.


My bad, LINKED and sync mode...i think >_<


----------



## Qbert

*Thanks for the info Pook!*









No worries if you cut me short as I need to learn up. If I can get to FSB 375-400 I'll be in my happy place...3.2ghz would be sweetness!

So the 4mb cache won't ixnay my attempt too bad? Noticed you did not say anything on that but commented on it mucho pages back.









I saw somewhere that I should change my memory from 667 to 800 in the BIOS as that would fly (or am I just high?). Crap, I can't remember it's been a long day and I'm a web zombie right now.

Cool, please comment back when you or anyone has a moment.

Gratsi









*P.S.* Just got my Avatar...check out the upside down pig thingy...cool!


----------



## Christiaan

Hey again guys.

I have given in to my urge for better performance, and I really like what I see around here on OCN about these CPU's.

So I was thinking to myself. If I were to get another 7600GT to run SLi or if I were to get a 8800GTS in the near future. Would a Core 2 Duo be better overall for my rig. I came to a definitive answer of yes.









So, I was looking at the C2D prices, quite good I must say. I will of course wait for the price cuts coming soon.

I'm going to list a few C2D processors and would like your feed back on their overclocking performance. I read in here somewhere that the 4MB cache versions don't overclock so good. True? Also keep in mind, I love taking a cheap processor and overclocking the living voltage out of it to make it go zoom zoom.







That's why I list the E4200 below, as it's super cheap and I hope I would be able to clock it to a extreme. As far as my Zalman can take it anyway.

Also, what is your view on the E2140 and the E2160?

C2D List:
Intel Core 2 Duo E4200 1.60GHz 2MB 800Mhz FSB
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 1.80GHz 2MB 800Mhz FSB
Intel Core 2 Duo E4320 1.80GHz 4MB 800Mhz FSB
Intel Core 2 Duo E4400 2.00GHz 2MB 800Mhz FSB
Intel Core 2 Duo E6320 1.86GHz 4MB 1066Mhz FSB

So, the story about the cache, true or false? And, how well do each of these overclock? What kind of heat output would I be looking at. Also, I'm totally new to C2D processors so I would like to know how the multiplier works. Can you take it upwards as well?

If I get one of these, my FSB limit will be 350 (1400), because of my RAM. I only have DDR2 667 RAM, but I know that they can run at 350 (700), no problem. So for now, that would be my limit.

I kinda want more from my 805, but I doubt I will get much more from her. She will of course go to the folding cause. ^^

Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## nick69

Well im back after installing my new mobo. Had a few problems getting back on the net after but it all seems to be working well now.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey man, welcome back. I guess we can now officially welcome you to the P5N-E SLi club! Welcome, now let's clock that sucka!


----------



## dpawl31

mcogan - that sucks









nick - welcome back, get that thing cruisin!

Christiaan-
Firstly - e4320 is not released as far as I know. Plus, allendale still < conroe.
e4xx0 are great chips. But considering how low conroe prices are now, I don't seem them being so worth it anymore.
Anyway, on the subject of cache. I've learned much on the subject since Pook first told me cache inhibits overclock. I find this to be true - but I _also_ find to be true that the extra cache gives better performance at same clock speeds.
I believe it was 300Mhz speed for each MB of cache, was the example?
So essentially, a 3.2Ghz 4MB L2 chip, compared to a 3.5Ghz 2MB L2 chip, would score more points. The extra cache gives it 600Mhz effective power, so it's running @ 3.2Ghz but scores like a 3.8Ghz.








Does that help?
Score 1 for the e6x20 guys!








The extra cache allows lower FSB, so higher performance with less FSB = more power for the people with boards that can't hit high FSB numbers *cough* Pook *cough*
I personally am going to get the e6320, I don't see the need for ~$20 more for another multi.
As far as the 2000 series chips... 1MB L2 shared... 512mb each core.
That equivalent to what my old celeron had








I still suggest *conroe > allendale*, and the 2000 series are based on allendales, with less cache.
Than again, allendale > PentiumD, so who am I to talk (other than the fact that I built my rig SPECIFICALLY for quad core! hah.)


----------



## Christiaan

Alrighty, thanks man. E6*** it'll have to be.
Will see as time goes by.







The OCZ PSU broke me solid.

I think I'll first buy a second 7600GT anyway then see about CPU or perhaps a 8800GTS.







But yeah, that's a tad expensive. Will see!









PS. That PS3 is looking better and better!









Oh and the multiplier working? And will my Zalman cool it good enough?


----------



## nick69

Yeah im buying a new HSF tmw. Probably going to go for the TT Big Typhoon or the TR 120.
After thats done I need to clear the whole system up as the driver CD messed a few things up like GFX drivers. Im also buying an X-Fi Soundcard, probably the Music version which I hear is much better than the Audio version.
Now guys, whats the best driver for the 650i chip?
Is there anything I can scrap or turn-off resulting the new install? I put PC Probe and Asus Update on there which I feel might have been a waste of time.
In the next few weeks ill get a new HD and do a freash install and start again so its as clean as can be. Then ill use them both in a Raid set-up.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Qbert*


*Thanks for the info Pook!*









No worries if you cut me short as I need to learn up. If I can get to FSB 375-400 I'll be in my happy place...3.2ghz would be sweetness!

So the 4mb cache won't ixnay my attempt too bad? Noticed you did not say anything on that but commented on it mucho pages back.









I saw somewhere that I should change my memory from 667 to 800 in the BIOS as that would fly (or am I just high?). Crap, I can't remember it's been a long day and I'm a web zombie right now.

Cool, please comment back when you or anyone has a moment.

Gratsi









*P.S. *Just got my Avatar...check out the upside down pig thingy...cool!


I'd be very surprised if you couldn't tap at least 450FSB. Probably will cap in the high 400's.









The E6x20's tend to OC less than the 2MB brother versions, but the cache makes up for it - usually it not only makes up for it, but then some on top of that.









When you OC, set your RAM ratio at 1:1. (Change the divider to "Sync" - it should be double your actual FSB, or half what the 650i BIOS says; ie, 1066 = 533Mhz). If your RAM goes all "OMG NOEZ" and doesn't want to go further at 1:1, you can throw up a divider so you won't be running half the FSB anymore, but you'll take a decent hit. Usually you can avoid using a divider by upping vDimm and/or changing latencies.

But with that RAM, I doubt you'll have any problems hitting 380-400FSB with a little extra voltage.









You're avatar confuses me btw. >.>


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



You're avatar confuses me btw. >.>


Doesn't take much.
















hehe


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Doesn't take much.
















hehe


----------



## dpawl31

You set yourself up for that one.
How's your FSB cap doin?









I don't know why I like hassling you...
















:turd:


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*









You set yourself up for that one.
How's your FSB cap doin?









I don't know why I like hassling you...










How's that...
er.
Um.
...
YOU NEED A....
erm.
...








...


----------



## dpawl31

*err double post...*


----------



## dpawl31

:turd:


----------



## The Pook

Ha! Noob.
*wins*


----------



## dpawl31

:swearing:


----------



## The Pook

Shush.
Get back in the kitchen and make me mah sammich.


----------



## dpawl31

But don't you "perfer pudding"?


----------



## rsfkevski

I'd like one too please


----------



## The Pook

Pudding sammich. Duh.


----------



## dpawl31

I make the mother of all P5N-E threads, and you guys want me makin sammiches?!


----------



## The Pook

Yes.
Problem?


----------



## Asce

Well you have to feed your servents


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Well you have to feed your servents


----------



## Asce

Well if it wasnt for my car needing to be fixed, i would be able to get the last two components to have my rig up and running.


----------



## Qbert

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
If your RAM goes all "OMG NOEZ" and doesn't want to go further at 1:1, you can throw up a divider so you won't be running half the FSB anymore, but you'll take a decent hit. Usually you can avoid using a divider by upping vDimm and/or changing latencies.

But with that RAM, I doubt you'll have any problems hitting 380-400FSB with a little extra voltage.









You're avatar confuses me btw. >.>

*Thanks again for the info Pook!*









Can you expand on throwing up a divider (and how to if I need to) and what the decent hit will be on (performance, OC cap, etc)? Hope you're right on just needing to use a little more voltage!!

As for the Avatar: The orange guy in the middle is Qbert from a game way back when (80s I think)? I used to play Qbert when I was a little kid because I liked all the pretend cuss words :swearing: he used when he got killed in the game. "Bert" is also part of my last name so it just clicked I guess.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Qbert* 
*Thanks again for the info Pook!*









Can you expand on throwing up a divider (and how to if I need to) and what the decent hit will be on (performance, OC cap, etc)? Hope you're right on just needing to use a little more voltage!!

As for the Avatar: The orange guy in the middle is Qbert from a game way back when (80s I think)? I used to play Qbert when I was a little kid because I liked all the pretend cuss words :swearing: he used when he got killed in the game. "Bert" is also part of my last name so it just clicked I guess.

There's a divider setting in the BIOS to allow you to setup a "normal" divider (2:1, 3:2, 5:4, etc etc - not sure the exact numbers seeings as I never use them







) or make up your own divider. (You can set your FSB to run at say, 425FSB, and make your RAM run at an odd ball speed at say, 370Mhz / DDR2-740)

Like I said though, that RAM should land you at the DDR2-800 mark with a little extra volts and/or loosening the timings.








Just make sure to throw a fan up on the RAM if going over 2.2v.


----------



## gtboi604

anyone here using an e6600/e6420/e6320?????
wondering how they OC on this bad boy...looking to pick 1 up this weekend finally.
thx peeps!
D~


----------



## Qbert

Sorry, this is definately







but I am having too much fun with the smiley folk right now (beats working!).....

Ok, being the new guy, here are your custom built spamturd sammiches:








:turd:







:turd:







:turd:







:turd:

...and drinks to wash them down with:































Enjoy!


----------



## dpawl31

GTBOI:
I will actually be building an e6320 rig sometime in the next week or so, ON *our board.* With 2GB HK's and an 8600GT (Leadtek) w/ 550w XClio and 1 150 raptor, 1 320 perp drive. 
All packed into a cooler master Mystique









Thing is - he'll be on stock air, just AS5 added.
Plus absolute stability is a big goal for this rig.
So I am probably aiming for 3Ghz max. Hopefully it is doable!
So if you are willing to wait a bit to see some OCing of an e6320 on a P5N-E...










Oh and PS, Pook...


----------



## gtboi604

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


GTBOI:
I will actually be building an e6320 rig sometime in the next week or so, ON *our board.* With 2GB HK's and an 8600GT (Leadtek) w/ 550w XClio and 1 150 raptor, 1 320 perp drive. 
All packed into a cooler master Mystique









Thing is - he'll be on stock air, just AS5 added.
Plus absolute stability is a big goal for this rig.
So I am probably aiming for 3Ghz max. Hopefully it is doable!
So if you are willing to wait a bit to see some OCing of an e6320 on a P5N-E...


wow, on stock cooling?
what are the multi's on these C2D's?
good luck!
D~


----------



## dpawl31

Stock cooling but I have the vent directly over the CPU, I might add a fan to force the cool air over the stock heatsink too.
I thought 3Ghz was easy for a C2D on stock? I really have no idea, am I way off?


----------



## gtboi604

supposedly the newer batches arent that great @ OCing...
thats what i heard.
D~


----------



## dpawl31

I think that's just the confusion about the 4MB L2 causing lower OCs, it's still equal or better performance.
I think people forget about the larger cache and so







"It's not going as high as my e6300!"


----------



## gtboi604

i sure hope u know what your doing...haha!
D~


----------



## Kopi

Had my C2D up to 3.2 on stock cooilng...it would load at 63c haha


----------



## dpawl31

Good to know








My goal is 3Ghz for him.


----------



## Asce

My gaol is between 3.2 and 3.6 but it will be watercooled, so temps isnt going to matter that much. Hopefully Geil Ultra ram will be nice and overclockable.


----------



## Kopi

You should have no problem getting th 3ghz...whats the multi on those chips?


----------



## Sanch3z

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtboi604*


anyone here using an e6600/e6420/e6320?????
wondering how they OC on this bad boy...looking to pick 1 up this weekend finally.
thx peeps!
D~


I posted this before but since your asking:








Core temp lists my CPU as E6500, its E6420. no water cooling needed.

my cooling: ZALMAN 9700 CPU HS
Zalman NB32J on SB
60 MM fan on NB, mounted by running screws between fins
Vantec SP-FC70-BL Spectrum fan card in pci slot
3 80mm case fans, 2 intake, 1 exhaust

I'm now using Everest Ultimate Edition for system monitoring, MB 34C idle 41C load, CPU 33C Idle 40 load. GPU 55C (after Vantec card dropped 8 degrees)

I havent been able to go higher than 3.2 but I, just yesterday, got my OCZ Gamestream 700w PSU and I'll be pushing faster soon.


----------



## gtboi604

thats not bad, but let us know if u can get it even higher!
Thanks!
D~


----------



## nick69

hi again guys,

got a few issues. Ive updated the bios to 602 version and am running the newest audio driver.
The setting on the on-board sound change themselves back to their own settings after a restart. I can get the sound coming out of my speakers but as soon as I restart they... you get the point.
On another subject, my ram is rated at 1.8v. Now ive looked in the bios and the lowest setting in there is 1.92v. Will/Is this causing an issue?

The Ram timings are at 5-5-5-31-20-2T. Its also running at 333.3 MHz which I now understand is right for DDR2, 333.3x2=666.6MHz. This is with just one stick of 1gb in as ive been trying to figure out it is what causing my COD games to crash!

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks
Nick


----------



## nick69

Ive put the other stick of RAM back in and its still running with the same timings.
Also i tried playing 2142 and the server list loading was VERY slow and juttery, im thinking that this is the reason why COD crashed. What would casue the games act like this?
Only happened after installing the new mobo btw!
Im using a USB cable modem with a 4mb connection. Used to load the lists pretty fast before the change.

Cheers
Nick


----------



## cjb0511

I dont understand your ram timings 5-5-5-31-20-2T. There shouldnt be that many numbers to adjust. Also, you have to multiply by 4 for DDR2. 333.3mhz x 4 = 1333. This might be too fast for your ram no matter what latencies you are trying to run. What is your CPU and RAM?


----------



## nick69

Those are just the numbers from CPU-Z. I dont know what they mean or anything tbh.

My cpu as in my sig is Pentium D 820 and my ram as in my sig is Geil DDR2-667.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cjb0511*


I dont understand your ram timings 5-5-5-31-20-2T. There shouldnt be that many numbers to adjust. Also, you have to multiply by 4 for DDR2. 333.3mhz x 4 = 1333. This might be too fast for your ram no matter what latencies you are trying to run. What is your CPU and RAM?


FSB is times 4.
DDR is times 2.

I'm not sure what's with your RAM. Try putting them in the black slots and if that doesn't work. Set RAM voltage to auto. You laughing now, but believe me, the black slots thing works.


----------



## nick69

Running now with both sticks in the black slots and its still the same.
Could the voltage be the problem? 1.8v ram at 1.92v!


----------



## Christiaan

Auto should set it to 1.8v. Hopefully.


----------



## nick69

Oh right so thats probably not the issue then!!
The audio problem has been fixed by uninstalling and reinstalling the driver.


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah CJB (1 post!) is wrong... DDR is Dual Data Rate... or Times TWO!
The black slot trick only worked back on stock bios, RAM issues were fixed with first BIOS release after it.

Take the tip from the first post in the thread








Manually set your timings!

The extra RAM # is TRC, Bank Cycle time.
That will be chosen by the board on auto.
Just set your CAS, RAS TO CAS, RAS, and CYCLE TIME manually.
I would suggest auto vdimm as well. It stabilized my completely. Odd, but it did.
Those timings seem pretty high for 667 Geil. 
Whatever your stock timings are is what you should set.
Probably something like 5-5-5-12 or 4-4-4-10
Remember - the board is very finniky about RAM timings!


----------



## nick69

Thankyou. I shall go and do that now.


----------



## nick69

Right the timings have been set and it showing correctly on CPU-Z. Thanks dpawl31 REP+.

Now the last problem. After installing the mobo my games crash. COD,COD UO and 2142, when I refresh the server list it goes VERY slow and jumpy then they either crash or eventually sort themselves out (after a long wait).
What would have caused this?
Im using a USB cable modem with the latest drivers and have tested my connection speed and it is as normal (3-4mb).

Any ideas?
I updated to 0602 bios and have uninstalled and reinstalled the games and that didnt help at all?


----------



## dpawl31

Try 04xx bios, that seemed to work well for the majority of people.
Also, USB modems FTL!!! I know it may be testing at correct speeds... but under load and such it's probably junk.
Did you try speedtest.net?
I have to go to work - be back in 9~10 hours lol.


----------



## nick69

Hey you cant go to work!!!
















Ive just connected the modem via ethernet and its still the same!







Speedtest still read as 3-4mb.

Enjoy your day at work dear fellow.


----------



## nick69

Hold on, numpty here!!
I didnt do a fresh install of xp when I put the mobo in.
Ill buy a better HD then do it next week.


----------



## Christiaan

Could be the case, though I didn't install a fresh copy of XP and I have no issues whatsoever. Hope you get sorted out. Good luck.


----------



## nick69

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Could be the case, though I didn't install a fresh copy of XP and I have no issues whatsoever. Hope you get sorted out. Good luck.


Looks like ive found the culprit. I unintentionally installed the firewall that comes on the mobo cd. Uninstalled it and all is back to normal thank jebers.
2 FW running together causes issues
















Anyway the thread can go back to normal now. Sorry for the interuption.

As you were.


----------



## The Pook

I got 475FSB stable.








Well, I'm pretty sure. Just played HL2 for an hour and am Orthosing now.


----------



## The Pook

Yep yep. 475FSB = stable.








Well, stable enough for me. 1 hour of Orthos and an hour of gaming is enough for me.









For anyone who hasn't - add heatsinks to your MOSFETs and your SB. Helps.

I used the extra ram sinks from my V700...brought my MB temp from 40C (@ 1.5v) to 36C and my voltages are more stable. (Plus 475FSB is stable.)

Gunna try more later.


----------



## dpawl31

Pooky is learning! Yay pooky! lol jk, congrats on finally bustin that chip a little higher.

Quote:

I didnt do a fresh install of xp when I put the mobo in.
Holy hell man, do it! lol.
It can really play tricks on you... even if it seems perfect- fresh install.
Christiaan... you too!







Do it! Now! The dpawleth thirtyoneth has spoken(eth)!


----------



## The Pook

i r finnish lernin' dood. i r king of teh pc k.

(BTW, the chip isn't breaking a sweat - I had it at 3.8Ghz for a short while on the 965PT)


----------



## dpawl31

I know you've had it higher- just saying you are getting better luck with that chip in this board









PS-


----------



## The Pook

My socks have holes in them.

PS - *insert cool simile here*
PSS - *testing at 480FSB*


----------



## gtboi604

uhm ok.
D~


----------



## Christiaan

Pook, stop showing off.









dpawl... well, honestly. I'm not in the mood to reinstall. Too much to back up. Everything is working perfectly. Honest.









I'd like to know though, about those MOSFETs... could I get a nice guide and some pictures to show little old me what they look like? lol
I'll get some RAM sinkies to put on them since you claim they stabilize the voltage. Cause I need that.


----------



## The Pook

Sure thing.









I'm using ram sinks (for GPU's) and one covers two mosfets...I "only" have 5 on the board instead of giving each their own.


----------



## The Pook

Orthosing at 485.









*edit*
No stable.


----------



## Christiaan

Excellent, thanks Pooks! You're my hero! ^^
Will order some VGA sinkies soon.









BTW. VERY NICE FSB!


----------



## The Pook

No problem.









Added some more volts, Orthosing again.


----------



## Christiaan

Two options:
Zalman
or
Vantec

Which one do you think? Or should I just go Zalman, cause a) I love Zalman products or b) I love blue.


----------



## The Pook

I'm using the Zalmans (BTW - use the extras you got from your VF900 if you got 'em) and they're pretty good....the coppers would cool better (being copper).

Just get whatever looks better to you.


----------



## Farmerjoe

I've just got my P5N-E SLI and I've started overclocking, but I'm kind of concerned for the SB and NB temperatures. I'm thinking of getting a new HS for the NB and one for the SB, but I don't really know which ones would fit. 
My zalman 9700 is not exactly small, so I don't know whether or not a HS like noctua nc-u6 would fit onto the NB. 
Down at the SB, one of the mounting holes is kind of getting blocked by my 8800GTS, but I guess I could remove the 8800, squeeze a mounting clip/screw in the hole, and then reinstall the 8800. That would probably only be possible with a HR-05-SLI though.. maybe I should get one of those for the NB aswell if there's space enough.. hmm..

Anyone who's got experience with replacing their NB/SB heat sink without getting compatibility issues with CPU / gfx cooler?


----------



## The Pook

HR-05 fits fine. Just make sure you get the slanted one for the NB.

As for the SB, just any heatsink will work. I was tempted to tear the low profile heatsink off an old AMD rig, but I just put a ram sink on it and am done with it.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Ok, so the HR-05-SLI should fit fine on the NB, and the SB should be fine with a RAM heatsink or two. Would another hr-05-sli for the SB be overkill?

And do you think that the noctua nc-06 would collide with the zalman 9700? I have a feeling that it cools better than the thermalright due to more heatpipes, but I don't really know..
Noctua NC-06:
http://www.xsreviews.co.uk/reviews/m.../noctua-nc-u6/


----------



## |talian $tallion

If anyone is looking to pick one of these boards up, look no further...

http://www.overclock.net/sale/196721...p5n-e-sli.html


----------



## Christiaan

Cool, thanks Pook. I went through my cupboard quickly and I see I have 3 spare ones. ^^

Farmerjoe, I have a Zalman ZM-NB47J on my SB. It's a bit high, but I'm going to mod(cut) it a bit so I can fit a second graphics card in.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe*


Ok, so the HR-05-SLI should fit fine on the NB, and the SB should be fine with a RAM heatsink or two. Would another hr-05-sli for the SB be overkill?

And do you think that the noctua nc-06 would collide with the zalman 9700? I have a feeling that it cools better than the thermalright due to more heatpipes, but I don't really know..
Noctua NC-06:
http://www.xsreviews.co.uk/reviews/m.../noctua-nc-u6/


If you got the money, go for an HR-05 SLI for the SB. Not really worth it, but no harm in doing it.

The Noctua doesn't look like it slants enough...it'll probably nick the fins on the Zalman 9700. It might work though.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


My socks have holes in them.

PS - *insert cool simile here*
PSS - *testing at 480FSB*











lmao... why is yours blue and mine gray!?


----------



## dpawl31

I am going to add a complete list of manuf recc. ram and then everything we have all tested here *to the front page of the thread*. I will be PMing every person that's even been in this thread (lol oh noes!) Yeah and I will be asking for CPU cooler, NB, SB, and Memory. That way I can compile a complete list on the front page of things that work with the board.
For example - in my case I have a AC Freezer7 Pro and stock heatsink, which required trimming plastic off the edge of the fan housing








If you, being people that are here all the time anyway, don't mind PMing me with your details as well as any modifications needed to do so, and if it fits perfectly or not, it would save me some people I have to contact







Thanks guys!


----------



## |talian $tallion

Asus Tek Qualified Vendor List - RAM from DDR2-533 ~ DDR2-800

*Compatible RAM (Not on QVL above)*
*DDR2-800*
OCZ Platinum 2x1024MB REV2

*Compatible CPU Heatsinks*
*ThermalTake Silent Tower* (Fan must be directed up towards the PSU)

*Compatible Northbridge Heatsinks*

*Compatible Southbridge Heatsinks (Non-SLI; does not work with SLI!)*

*
Compatible Southbridge Heatsinks (SLI)

*


----------



## Kopi

I'm proud of you pook, you got some high FSB numbers now eh.

How did you put put the ramsinks or whatever on the mosfets? Just use a little AS5 or something?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I'm proud of you pook, you got some high FSB numbers now eh.

How did you put put the ramsinks or whatever on the mosfets? Just use a little AS5 or something?


>.>
The thermal tape that comes on ramsinks.


----------



## Kopi

oh didnt know they came with tape, maybe i'll pick a set up somewhere.

What did you put on the SB?


----------



## Asce

http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Produ...oductID=414633
Thats what i put on my SB.


----------



## DonNiger

Kopi;2244417, what is the max FSB at the moment, I mean after installing those heatsinks.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


oh didnt know they came with tape, maybe i'll pick a set up somewhere.

What did you put on the SB?


One of the ram sinks.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Hmm.. my overclocking is not going as well as I had hoped. I've not had enough time to experiment enough with vcore settings, but I've given it enough to rule out that as a course of instability and the temperatures are not that high yet. But whenever I go over something like 3.15GHz it restarts after 10-20 secs with orthos running, and increasing the NB voltage doesn't seem to help, I've tried 1.39V and 1.5V but it doesn't help.
I've thought about if it could be the temperature of the NB, but I don't really know how to measure that temp. The "Motherboard" temperature seen in some programs is just from some random probe somewhere MB right?
I'm getting a new heatsink for the NB asap, but could the NB temp really be causing almost instant restarts when running orthos?

Edit: It seems as if it just won't get stable no matter what I do; high vcore and high vNB doesn't help at all. I'm currently running the RAM unlinked at stockspeeds, so the ram/fsb ratio depends on the FSB ofcourse, but could a weird ratio really result in that much instability?
Also, I've thought about the BIOS. Tomorrow I'm going to find a floppy drive so I can flash the BIOS to the newest version (I guess I trust that way more than the asusflasher thing), but could the standard BIOS really be that nonfriendly towards overclocking?

Any help is appreciated


----------



## Christiaan

Earlier in the thread I was told that you need a fan on the NB once you start overclocking. I suggest starting there. Put a small fan (40mm) on the NB heatsink and see if it helps.

For temporary purposes I have a free standing 80mm fan blowing over it. It's a lot cooler than without it.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Kopi;2244417, what is the max FSB at the moment, I mean after installing those heatsinks.


I havn't shot for my highest FSB, waiting for HR-05 so I can do 1.7v

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Earlier in the thread I was told that you need a fan on the NB once you start overclocking. I suggest starting there. Put a small fan (40mm) on the NB heatsink and see if it helps.

For temporary purposes I have a free standing 80mm fan blowing over it. It's a lot cooler than without it.


You should change your sig there Christiaan, you aren't doing 700fsb


----------



## Christiaan

lol Kopi...
It's effective, but I'm sure you know that. You're just trying to be funny.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe*


Hmm.. my overclocking is not going as well as I had hoped. I've not had enough time to experiment enough with vcore settings, but I've given it enough to rule out that as a course of instability and the temperatures are not that high yet. But whenever I go over something like 3.15GHz it restarts after 10-20 secs with orthos running, and increasing the NB voltage doesn't seem to help, I've tried 1.39V and 1.5V but it doesn't help. 
I've thought about if it could be the temperature of the NB, but I don't really know how to measure that temp. The "Motherboard" temperature seen in some programs is just from some random probe somewhere MB right?
I'm getting a new heatsink for the NB asap, but could the NB temp really be causing almost instant restarts when running orthos?

Edit: It seems as if it just won't get stable no matter what I do; high vcore and high vNB doesn't help at all. I'm currently running the RAM unlinked at stockspeeds, so the ram/fsb ratio depends on the FSB ofcourse, but could a weird ratio really result in that much instability?
Also, I've thought about the BIOS. Tomorrow I'm going to find a floppy drive so I can flash the BIOS to the newest version (I guess I trust that way more than the asusflasher thing), but could the standard BIOS really be that nonfriendly towards overclocking?

Any help is appreciated










1) You need to run 1:1 for stability... unlinked with your ram @ it's stock is no good.
2) I definately recc. doing the flash, if you are on stock bios (0202) 
I would imagine it isn't being shipped with that BIOS anymore, unless there is still a big backstock of the board.
3) I have had no issue with Asus Update (Bios flash). I have used it probably ~6 times. I don't trust Windows based bios utilities for overclocking, I do happen to trust Asus Update though. Personal preference I guess!


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


lol Kopi...
It's effective, but I'm sure you know that. You're just trying to be funny.










When people talk about FSB they aren't talking about effective though.


----------



## dpawl31

You say that - Yet 99% of all motherboard boxes say something like 
*FSB 1066!*









*Pwnt!*


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


*When people talk* about FSB they aren't talking about effective though.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


You say that - Yet 99% of all *motherboard boxes* say something like 
*FSB 1066!*









*Pwnt!*


Haven't seen many boxes roaming around OCN lately.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Haven't seen many boxes roaming around OCN lately.












<--RePwnt...


----------



## Kopi

haha that would be quad fsb, 1066.

We're trying to hit the 500fsb mark, not the 2000fsb...it just sounds so weird lol


----------



## Christiaan

Okay Kopi and Pooks. Happy now? lol

I changed everything. My RAM and even my graphics to "actual".


----------



## The Pook

Yey.
>.>


----------



## Kopi

Change it back.

Just kidding

Going to get some ramsinks today







along with a G5


----------



## Kahuna513

Guys, just a quickie:
Will this mobo support the following?
2x 512MB Corsair XMS2 533MHz 3-3-3-8
2x 512MB Hynix Value 533MHz 4-4-4-12
Running together?
My current motherboard supports it just fine, tightening it all to 3-3-3-8 1T

Also, would you say this is an OK upgrade from a MSI P4n [nForce 4 SLi]? - Running this at the moment, highest stable OCs are 240 FSB ish, with stability errors from the mobo, but the PCI slots have died =)
[Gone 6 months without X-Fi, getting withdrawal symptoms (Banging head on desk)]

Thought I'd ask first, not read the whole thread, but it looks immense =)
Cheers guys,
~Kahuna


----------



## dpawl31

I am pretty sure the Corsair will be fine... guys running the XMS2 665 here fine.
Not sure about the Hynix- and not sure about them running with the Corsair









TT120, 7800GTX SLI and an XFI Card? Time to get yourself a P5N-E and make the rest of your hardware happier







More than an "OK" upgrade









We haven't really seen RAM issues since the first BIOS.
It still likes timings manually set though.
I would say you are good to go with the Corsair, if they Hynix doesn't work just run the corsair to flash from stock bios (as long as you receive it with stock bios!) and then try the Hynix again.

Good luck! Hope you grab yourself a P5N-E


----------



## Kahuna513

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I am pretty sure the Corsair will be fine... guys running the XMS2 665 here fine.
Not sure about the Hynix- and not sure about them running with the Corsair








TT120, 7800GTX SLI and an XFI Card? Time to get yourself a P5N-E and make the rest of your hardware happier







More than an "OK" upgrade









We haven't really seen RAM issues since the first BIOS.
It still likes timings manually set though.
I would say you are good to go with the Corsair, if they Hynix doesn't work just run the corsair to flash from stock bios (as long as you receive it with stock bios!) and then try the Hynix again.

Good luck! Hope you grab yourself a P5N-E









Cheers!
Thanks man, great help, ordering now =)
I'll let you know if I have issues








~Kahuna


----------



## Farmerjoe

Now that you're at the RAM talk; should I set ALL the RAM timings manually or just the standard 4? My RAM is rated for CL5 but a little extra voltage and they run CL4 fine, should I just leave all the subtimings on auto?


----------



## Christiaan

If you can find the correct settings, do it. Otherwise auto.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Hmmm. I've flashed my BIOS to 0602 now, I'm running the RAM:FSB in 1:1 but it's still not stable when over 350FSB. The NB voltage is 1.39V when running 350FSB but increasing it to 1.56V doesn't help me get over 350FSB. At that voltage I've wondered if the NB temperature could be too high to be stable (it crashes after 5min+ in orthos with gromacs core). My HR-05-SLI will probably come tomorrow, but is there nothing else to do than just try and lower the NB temp? I have also mounted an extra 120mm fan in the case, blowing some air over the NB, but not directly.


----------



## RaiDer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe* 
Hmmm. I've flashed my BIOS to 0602 now, I'm running the RAM:FSB in 1:1 but it's still not stable when over 350FSB. The NB voltage is 1.39V when running 350FSB but increasing it to 1.56V doesn't help me get over 350FSB. At that voltage I've wondered if the NB temperature could be too high to be stable (it crashes after 5min+ in orthos with gromacs core). My HR-05-SLI will probably come tomorrow, but is there nothing else to do than just try and lower the NB temp? I have also mounted an extra 120mm fan in the case, blowing some air over the NB, but not directly.

idk what CPU you have but, with my unlinked OC on an E6600 with this board.. I had to, up the NB voltage to 1.56v and set the Vcore offset Control to +100MV I've left the Vcore voltage on auto, which let me break 1506 rated FSB before I couldn't go beyond 1496. With those settings applied, it'll take 1600 rated fsb/3.6ghz.. Something to try perhaps?


----------



## Farmerjoe

Doh - filled in my system specs now








I'll try what you suggested. Is the Vcore offset equivalent to just raising the Vcore 100mV oder was?


----------



## RaiDer

Well for me to hit 3.6, from complete default without touching ram I'd set..

VCore: Auto.
NB: 1.563v.
VCore Offset: +100MV.

9x Multi.
Unlinked.
Rated FSB: 1600.

1600 is 400mhz fsb 3.6ghz, atm I'm at 3.5ghz 1556 Rated FSB, fsb 398mhz. But just go at your own pace see if you can break your current restriction to start then work on your RAM..

As for the +100MV I think its something like that I read a guide here, I'd have to refer back to that. I'l reply with a link later. Still an OC'er in training afterall xD!


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I'm using ram sinks (for GPU's) and one covers two mosfets...I "only" have 5 on the board instead of giving each their own.


Can you tuch the sinks during the test. I'm just wondering, how hot thouse can get?


----------



## dpawl31

In reference to +100mv, some say it reduces vdroop, thus making overclocks more stable. I have yet to see solid proof, but some people have "said" it works.
Otherwise, yes, it just adds 0.1v


----------



## Christiaan

dpawl, what happens when you put +100mv on auto?


----------



## Farmerjoe

It's running 3375MHz orthos stable now. I should have my new NB heatsink today, and then I'm going to reseat the 9700 aswell, I think I put way too much paste under it when I first mounted. It reaches 60degrees celcius when I'm stressing it with orhtos (gromacs core), so after a reseat I'll try to get it stable at 3.6GHz without going over 60degrees.


----------



## Christiaan

Farmerjoe, I used the AS5 instructions for dual cores from their site. Don't do the line thing. I had way too much paste on there using their method. I tried to make the line as thin as possible and it was way too much.

After reseating with the little half a grain of rice in middle one, my temps came down a lot.  Can't remember by how much. But I remember, it also loaded at 60, but afterwards was in the low 50s.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Can you tuch the sinks during the test. I'm just wondering, how hot thouse can get?

SB = very very very very warm.
vRAM mosfet = It's warm-ish. Not much more above room temp. (Wasn't before.)
vCore mosfet = Warm.
+100mv mosfet = Room temp. I did it just because I had extra ram sinks.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Well I'm not even using AS5 now(shame on me







), I'm using the zalman STG-1 that came with my 9700. Maybe I'll order a fancontroller bay + some AS5 today or tomorrow. I don't know what the zalman grease is made of, but do you think it's much worse than AS5 or the coollaboratory liquid pro (anyone tried that btw?)


----------



## crazydj

If i buy the P5N-E SLI tomorrow, do i need to flash the bios or update or anything?


----------



## Christiaan

Make sure it has at least the 0404 BIOS.


----------



## crazydj

Why the 0404 BIOS? Does anything below it have severe problems?


----------



## RaiDer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe*


It's running 3375MHz orthos stable now. I should have my new NB heatsink today, and then I'm going to reseat the 9700 aswell, I think I put way too much paste under it when I first mounted. It reaches 60degrees celcius when I'm stressing it with orhtos (gromacs core), so after a reseat I'll try to get it stable at 3.6GHz without going over 60degrees.


Aslong as you can keep your temps down when under load, like 55c maximum it should be stable imo. My friend is running 3.6GHZ on a Striker Extreme with that HSF reasonable temps, as I say if it goes over 55c at any point drop the clock down.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
SB = very very very very warm.
vRAM mosfet = It's warm-ish. Not much more above room temp. (Wasn't before.)
vCore mosfet = Warm.
+100mv mosfet = Room temp. I did it just because I had extra ram sinks.

Is is during the strss test or in idle. If in test, it seems unnecessary unless you have extra fan blowing for those. How many extra mhz came after the installation.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crazydj* 
Why the 0404 BIOS? Does anything below it have severe problems?

The 0202 BIOS it came with has severe memory issues. 0404 (I think it was) fixed that, above 0404 does nothing significant. I believe guys on 0602 have problems with their CPUs multiplier. I'm on 0602 since my CPU is multiplier locked anyway.









Correct me if I'm wrong on the 0404, it might be 0402.







But you get the general idea.

Also, the new one, 0604 I believe, issues with that as well. So stay clear.


----------



## dpawl31

Yes 04xx series is the most proven I'd say.
05xx and 06xx are problematic for C2D guys due to the multi being locked.
Not much different than 04xx except I believe adds support for e6x20?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Is is during the strss test or in idle. If in test, it seems unnecessary unless you have extra fan blowing for those. How many extra mhz came after the installation.

Nope. All idle.
SB burns by itself. When I can find one I'm gunna jack the SB HS off a dead motherboard.

Either way, with the SAME settings, I can get 1900FSB and the only thing changed are adding RAM sinks to the MOSFET and SB. (SB has little to do with it. Still hot.)


----------



## GunZ

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum.

I've read through the thread looking for an answer to my problem ("Enjoy reading for hours, because it's going to take that long").

I built my system in February.

C2D 2.4 @ 3.2 vcore 1.375 +100mv Idle 40c Load 50c
NB 1.393 37c (Antec Spot Cool over it)
vdimm 2.178 1Gb x 2 Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2 1000
BIOS 0401

I'm having trouble with the memory. The first kit gave me errors in memtest after about a month and I RMA back to Newegg. This kit lasted about two months and now I'm getting errors in memtest and lockups in games again. Do any of you think I might have gotten a bad batch of memory, or is it possible the dimm slots are overvolting the memory? I realize this memory is not on the approved list.

I ran the first kit unlinked: 1000mhz 5-5-5-15.
I ran the second kit linked: 948mhz 5-5-5-15 (1423, 3:2)
I'm now running it unlinked: 800mhz 5-5-5-15

I will RMA to Crucial soon. Any suggestions?


----------



## Nonchalant

Ive got one of these boards on order.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GunZ*


Hey guys, I'm new to the forum.

I've read through the thread looking for an answer to my problem ("Enjoy reading for hours, because it's going to take that long").

I built my system in February.

C2D 2.4 @ 3.2 vcore 1.375 +100mv Idle 40c Load 50c
NB 1.393 37c (Antec Spot Cool over it)
vdimm 2.178 1Gb x 2 Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2 1000
BIOS 0401

I'm having trouble with the memory. The first kit gave me errors in memtest after about a month and I RMA back to Newegg. This kit lasted about two months and now I'm getting errors in memtest and lockups in games again. Do any of you think I might have gotten a bad batch of memory, or is it possible the dimm slots are overvolting the memory? I realize this memory is not on the approved list.

I ran the first kit unlinked: 1000mhz 5-5-5-15.
I ran the second kit linked: 948mhz 5-5-5-15 (1423, 3:2)
I'm now running it unlinked: 800mhz 5-5-5-15

I will RMA to Crucial soon. Any suggestions?










I'm just throwing a suggestion at you here, but are you on auto timings or did you manually enter them? If it's on auto, try manually entering them. Also try auto voltage.


----------



## GunZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I'm just throwing a suggestion at you here, but are you on auto timings or did you manually enter them? If it's on auto, try manually entering them. Also try auto voltage.



I entered them manually. I've already tried it on auto, timings and voltage. I also tried clearing the BIOS (removed the battery), but to no avail.


----------



## The Pook

1T or 2T?
This board seems to hate certain RAM running past 800 or so with 1T. Knock it back up to 2T.


----------



## dpawl31

2T, yes try that.
Also- when you manually entered timings, did you try AUTO vdimm @ that point, or just AUTO timings + vdimm.
Manual timings and AUTO vdimm solved my issues, specifically with memory errors.


----------



## GunZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
1T or 2T?
This board seems to hate certain RAM running past 800 or so with 1T. Knock it back up to 2T.

I've been running it at 2T. I tried running it at 1T before I started having problems with the memory. The computer would always lock up right after I started Orthos.


----------



## GunZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
2T, yes try that.
Also- when you manually entered timings, did you try AUTO vdimm @ that point, or just AUTO timings + vdimm.
Manual timings and AUTO vdimm solved my issues, specifically with memory errors.

I've tried the different combinations of manual/auto and timings/vdimm. Nojoy. How do I check the voltage at the dimm slot? Have multimeter in hand...


----------



## dpawl31

Ouch... not a clue there.
Maybe those high end sticks just don't work with the board?


----------



## GunZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Ouch... not a clue there.
Maybe those high end sticks just don't work with the board?

What memory would you recommend? I see that you are using the OCZ gold, but they are not on the MQV list either. How long have you been running the OCZ Gold?


----------



## Kopi

I've been using mine for a couple months..


----------



## crazydj

Is it possible to fix a north bridge cooler on a south bridge? Do they have the same types of hole? Is this true for the P5N-E SLI?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crazydj* 
Is it possible to fix a north bridge cooler on a south bridge? Do they have the same types of hole? Is this true for the P5N-E SLI?

A simple yes to them all.


----------



## dpawl31

I've been using the Gold for about 6 months.
I only have the 1GB Kit, Kopi's P5N-E has the 2GB Kit.
I wouldn't neccessarily reccommend them though, Kopi says his overclock pretty well but I have yet to try it, no need @ the moment.
I would get yourself some D9's...


----------



## mchutch

I am building a system and from scratch and just need to put it all together, but I'm gonna wait till I get back home. I would like to test all the parts while I'm still in Toronto and exchange parts that are not compatible. I'm just waiting on an already shipped PSU, but maybe someone here can tell me if this RAM is compatible by experience: Mushkin EM2-6400 DDR2-800 2x1GB EM Series CAS 5-5-5-12. Also the NB and SB issues. Should the NB be changed to allow a better CPU cooler, or is the stock one the best solution? I'm also assuming the SB can't stay naked, is just a heatsink sufficient? Any and all help welcome.


----------



## dpawl31

1) I would assume the RAM should be fine.
2) NB is fine for most CPUHS's, just reseat it with AS5.
3) The newer-shipped P5N-E's have a SB HS... bastards... lol.
4) If you get one that doesn't yes, most any HS will work. Not with SLI though!
Check the second post on the first page of this thread








5) I can help you with the mod you'll need to do for the CPU cooler, just realized you have the same as me









You just need to trim some plastic off the fan housing. The corner where it will touch the NB. You could also do what I did, take the ASUS aluminum sticker off the NB, and then bend a NB fin down under the CPU HS. 
But that would be dumb. So what, I didn't know I could trim the fan housing. lol.


----------



## Delphi

Well I just got one of these boards. And i was wondering if any of you have TAT running with them. Cause i cant seem to get it to run with it.

Also i am running this fine right now. But i am wondering if my ram i compatible with this board cause it seems i got a dead stick im my 2gb kit. But it is running fine with a 1gb stick right now.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Delphi*


Well I just got one of these boards. And i was wondering if any of you have TAT running with them. Cause i cant seem to get it to run with it.

Also i am running this fine right now. But i am wondering if my ram i compatible with this board cause it seems i got a dead stick im my 2gb kit. But it is running fine with a 1gb stick right now.


Have you tested the ram thoroughly?
ie Try the "dead" stick by itself.

I had an issue where ONE stick worked, in any slot, either stick.
No matter how I put TWO sticks in, I got memory errors and crashes.
I set vdimm to AUTO instead of 2.1 (or 2.0 I forget what I set it as)
And instantly I could run both sticks fine, with no memtest errors at all.


----------



## GunZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I've been using the Gold for about 6 months.
I only have the 1GB Kit, Kopi's P5N-E has the 2GB Kit.
I wouldn't neccessarily reccommend them though, Kopi says his overclock pretty well but I have yet to try it, no need @ the moment. 
I would get yourself some D9's...










I've changed some things and I _may _be stable now. Here is what I did:

I have an Antec Nine Hundred case. I moved the external drives to the bottom, and moved the intake fan to the top. I had seen this somewhere lately, but could not remember where until I looked at your gallery again.








The Nine Hundred has such great ventilation, I never thought heat could be an issue with the memory...









Memtest still gives errors, but I ran Orthos for half an hour until I stopped it. I changed timings/voltage and ran it again.

800 4-4-4-12 2T
vdimm 2.08

I ran Orthos for an hour and a half, but Memtest _still _gives errors. I fired up some games (Fear, Doom3) and they did not crash!









Temps:
Cpu 54c load
NB/MB 41c load

Running Orthos now at:
1000 4-4-4-12 2T
vdimm 2.178

It has been running for approx forty-five minutes so far... Memtest results bother me though.


----------



## DonNiger

Myby Orthos just does not "touch" the faulty area. Run WINRAR benchmark, thatone stresses mem quite a lot.


----------



## GunZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Myby Orthos just does not "touch" the faulty area. Run WINRAR benchmark, thatone stresses mem quite a lot.

No errors after running the WINRAR benchmark for a couple of hours.


----------



## dpawl31

Nice job GunZ.


----------



## Delphi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Have you tested the ram thoroughly?
ie Try the "dead" stick by itself.

I had an issue where ONE stick worked, in any slot, either stick.
No matter how I put TWO sticks in, I got memory errors and crashes.
I set vdimm to AUTO instead of 2.1 (or 2.0 I forget what I set it as)
And instantly I could run both sticks fine, with no memtest errors at all.


Yea i tried the dead stick by itself, crashed 30 secs in orthos. Tried the other, was stable for ever.


----------



## b1gapl

Hey guys,

I tried flashing the BIOS from 0401 to 0505. I used the EZ Flash method. And while it was checking the file, a message popped up saying "Downgraded ROM file was not suitable for this system." Is this a bad thing? Right now I'm still at that window with that message. What should I do? Just restart? Or is it too late? Thanks...


----------



## Christiaan

You need to default the BIOS, should work then.


----------



## b1gapl

What do you mean by default the BIOS? Sorry I'm a newb to this. I'm still at that window with that message. So to get out, I should reboot? Or will it corrupt something?


----------



## Christiaan

Load your BIOS defaults.

As I understood before, the BIOS likes to have default settings (no overclock etc) before you update it.


----------



## b1gapl

Oh ok...thanks man. I was also told that you have to do it with the award flash program instead of the EZ flash.


----------



## dpawl31

For the BIOS flash utility, you have to clear CMOS and enter BIOS then do it.
For the windows based utility, there is an option under the, uh, options menu







that says "BIOS DOWNGRADEABLE"


----------



## The Pook

Anyone wanna buy some fans?

Don't buy SilenX.


----------



## laluckaryves

hey you guys, i'm trying to get my multiplier from 9 down to 8 so i can run at a 1:1 ratio at 3.2ghz. everytime i change it from 9 to 8 in the bios it either fails to boot or shows up as still having a 9x multiplier. I have tried many different ram and fsb combinations and nothing seems to be working. any ideas?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *laluckaryves*


hey you guys, i'm trying to get my multiplier from 9 down to 8 so i can run at a 1:1 ratio at 3.2ghz. everytime i change it from 9 to 8 in the bios it either fails to boot or shows up as still having a 9x multiplier. I have tried many different ram and fsb combinations and nothing seems to be working. any ideas?


Ok you here.This is the rigth place,for that board.


----------



## The Pook

Lower multi's with this board is hella rocky as far as what will and won't work.

I can't use x6 at all.


----------



## laluckaryves

has anyone gotten a lower multi to work well? or am i just out of luck.


----------



## dpawl31

Pook WTH are you talking about, I just put two SilenX fans in a $1400 build for a friend and they are great... what'd they do to you, lower your FSB some more?


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *laluckaryves*


has anyone gotten a lower multi to work well? or am i just out of luck.


Lower multi works only with bios v.402


----------



## laluckaryves

o seriously, thanks man i'll give that a shot. can anyone confirm?


----------



## rsfkevski

confirmed!!!!


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys.

So PC was humming along nicely, and then. Dum dum dum. Bluescreen! Okay, restart. While later, dum dum dum. Bluescreen. Repeat one more time.

So I was thinking. What the ****??? PC has been working fine for a few days. Okay, back to stock. PC is fine. 

Hmmm, overclock related. Now, I was already running my RAM at 2.2v. At 350 with 3:3:3:9 1T.

So in a curious testing move. Lowered voltage to 1.9v (stock) kept overclock, but put timings up to 4:4:4:12 2T. And no issues so far. Just wondering if it's the timings or command rate that caused the issue. I'm new to timings since my previous mobo didn't support any tuning of timings what so ever.


----------



## DonNiger

You just aswered to your own question + summertime (temp)


----------



## Christiaan

Um, yeah. I wanted to know if it is the timings or the command rate without actually testing it. So you saying it's both?

And it's winter here.


----------



## Kai-

On my ram @ 800DDR, I can do 4-4-4-10 2T timings, but not 4-4-4-10 1T timings, so I think it would be the cmd rates rather than the timings. Although your ram may be different


----------



## Christiaan

Best way is to test it I guess. Will do so some other time. I'm enjoying a working PC for now.









Oh and will this be good for cooling my RAM? Thermaltake Cyclo Memory Cooling Will it be fine with the RAMheatsinks my Corsairs come with?


----------



## DonNiger

For the timing I have been useing the NVtool. It's slow but it gives you rock solid timings. Just mark only turn mem and 12 hour test. It works well.


----------



## Kahuna513

Hey guys, ordered the board, installed it earlier today, haven't had a chance to muck about with it. No idea what BIOS revision it is, just making sure it's not DOA or anything right now. All good =)
Installed the mishmatched RAM fine, running it all CAS 4 just for troubleshooting.
First page mentioned fitting the Turniq Tower is a tight fit?
Sure is:















Gotta love it, on nice and snug [Yup, with all 4 pins in now]









I'll get back to you with some OCing later on








~Kahuna


----------



## Qbert

*EMERGENCY!!!!

Please help!!!*

I just got a call from the company assembling my rig that they had stability problems with 2 of the ASUS P5N-E boards they tried out and they recommended going to the EVGA 680i LT (122-CK-NF67-T1) for the same price! FYI&#8230;this was one of the newer P5N-E with a SB heatsink so keep any eye out for quality issues on these possibly!!!!

I have not had time to research this board and wanted to find out if anyone has any thoughts on this board&#8230;

1. What are pluses & minuses on the features between the 2 boards (see my system specs in sig)?








2. Any idea how this puppy OCs in general? 
3. Can you go Unlinked?

I plan to OC my rig but not to the exteme - just hoping to get my e6420 to 3 - 3.2ghz. I have basic Corsair 667 ram right now too.

I appreciate any quick responses so I can decide what to do today and not have them hold up my build until Monday!!!!!

Super big thanks on any speedy responses!!!


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Pook WTH are you talking about, I just put two SilenX fans in a $1400 build for a friend and they are great... what'd they do to you, lower your FSB some more?










Take it you never had a 80+CFM fan to compare it to.
Specs are bloated, and my $5 RFX-120 fan (70CFM, 32dBa) is quieter and keeps temps lower.

Click the link in my sig and you would've known. >.>


----------



## dpawl31

Q tell them to manually set ram timings vdimm and get bios 05xx. i just built a p5ne and 6320 last night and got bsod till i did that. dont get the other board. bad oc-er from what ive seen.


----------



## Qbert

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Q tell them to manually set ram timings vdimm and get bios 05xx. i just built a p5ne and 6320 last night and got bsod till i did that. dont get the other board. bad oc-er from what ive seen.

*Thanks dpawl31!* Looks like I can get it at the same price as the P5N-E so I may be tempted. Will do some more rsrch this weekend for reviews.

Interesting about the SB heatsink though, huh?


----------



## dpawl31

I bought that P5N-E for the e6320 rig I built last night from newegg w/ the new photo (with SB HS) and it didn't come with one... bastards! I think I might tell them I was expecting a SB HS and ask them to discount one







Obviously not the one in the photo though hah.

PS I sent that other msg from my cell phone @ work, so that's why there were few and far between capitalizations and a lot less blabber than I normally type, like this!


----------



## Sora1421

I just recieved this board open box from the egg and everything is in its plastic still. The SB didn't come with a heatsink but I don't care because Im going to grab a Blue Ice Pro off SVC soon anyway because I love Blue LED heh. Im in a different state right now but I will be back tommarow

The real question here is will my Arctic Freezer Pro 7 fit? if not can I just mod something easily and make it fit without problems? Also the NB and SB have the same hole size right? 40x40mm?


----------



## dpawl31

The NB is extra long... 
The Freezer 7 Pro will fit, you will have to snip the lower corner of the fan housing for it to sit far enough down but it's fine. If you remove the ASUS sticker from the NB center it'll drop another mm or so, but you will still have to trim the housing a little.


----------



## Sora1421

So your saying snip the HS metal a little bit then to make it fit? With what do you recommend. Also does the NB cool very good? It better for how ****ing long it is.


----------



## dpawl31

No no...
You can just trim the corner of the fan housing plastic with a sharp pair of scissors. If you want, you can remove the ASUS logo, it's just an aluminum sticker on top of the fins.
If you are a loser like me, you would take that sticker off and bend the NB fin down under the Freezer. But then it just looks ******ed- especially once you notice, OH I could have trimmed the plastic on the fan O_O

It cools OK as long as 1) You reseat it with AS5 2) You have decent case cooling.
If you don't have good case cooling, I suggest a 40/60mm fan you can just rest it on your GPU and fit it in the fins of the NBHS.


----------



## Qbert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I bought that P5N-E for the e6320 rig I built last night from newegg w/ the new photo (with SB HS) and it didn't come with one... bastards! I think I might tell them I was expecting a SB HS and ask them to discount one







Obviously not the one in the photo though hah.

PS I sent that other msg from my cell phone @ work, so that's why there were few and far between capitalizations and a lot less blabber than I normally type, like this!










*Hey dpawl31!!!*

Well, after you said your new P5N-E came w/o a SB HS (those bastards!) I went back and looked at the images Newegg has on that page and you know what? I think those images may have been doctored!!!







Check out the SB HS...doesn't it look a little less clear or of worse quality than the rest of the image? Am I losing it or just looking for a late night conspiracy? Check it out and decide for yourselves...










P.S. Anyone want any Spamturd sammiches again?


----------



## Kai-

lol That looks like a way dodgey mspaint job. They could have at least put one on that had a bit of shine or looked a bit cooler.


----------



## The Pook

It's fine to me.

If you guys are annoyed you didn't get a heatsink, just get one of these.

They're cheap ($18.50 USD MSRP), they're sexy (copper and sexy), and they cool kick-ass-ed-ly.


----------



## Sora1421

omg...my BIOS keep freezing and im clearing the CMOS. Unless if I am doing it the wrong way???

Unplug the PSU, pull it off Pins 1-2 and put it on 12-3 and hold it there for 5-15 seconds. After that replace it to the 1-2 p[ins and plug it back up? Is that the correct way to clear the CMOS or not becuase if it is that doesn't work and I'm still getting BIOS freezes...


----------



## Delphi

pop out that battery on the board after you have to comp unplugged. Its right above the Blue pci-e slot. It always works for me.


----------



## Sora1421

I have tried both batteries, The one by the SATA ports and the one above the blue PCI-E.

Haldf the time when i trurn on the power the screen doesn't even turn on and then other half when the Asus logo screen coems up it either freezes right on the spot or it has a bar that goes across the screen all corrupted looking (like when you pulled out a cartridge game for older systems while playing the game) I think my BIOS are corrupt...any way to fix them?


----------



## Delphi

Ok pull the power out then after its out hit the power button on becuase your psu's caps still have juice in them so you have to get it pretty much empty. Then try it after... hopefully that fixes it.


----------



## Sora1421

I switched the pins and pulled out the PSU and tried to push the power button and let it sit for 10 mins to drain out any power. I then put the batteries on the 1-2 pins and now the monitor is having a hard time even coming on. Is it possible I have broke the board? I didn't try to flash the BIOS or anything I was just trying o OC the board to my old 965Pt settings...I'm going to replace my motherboard soon if I can't get it working....damn this blows because this board is really nice looking.


----------



## Christiaan

Why on earth would you put the battery on the 1-2 pins? What is the 1-2 pins anyway? lol

And, I don't see two batteries! 

Just... switch off PC, unplug your PSU. Pull out the battery or batteries as you claim.  Wait 10 minutes. Put batteries back in, plug in PSU, switch PC on. You are now CMOS cleared my friend.

And leave the pins alone!


----------



## The Pook

Wewt wewt.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=206919


----------



## dpawl31

CMOS clear is easy... no need to remove that stupid battery... and where is that supposed 2nd battery?









Anyway flip PSU switch, move the jumper (CMOS Clear Jumper) from pins 1-2 to 2-3, wait till the green light on the board goes OUT, wait a few more seconds, then replace jumper, turn PSU back on and off you go.

If that doesn't solve you issue - CMOS clearing is not your issue.
Maybe it has something to do with your mysterious "2nd battery"?









POOK! If that's stable,








If it's not stable...


----------



## x Swift x

Ok... this mobo is sweet but damn do i have some annoyances with it...

is it just me... or does this board seem to eat through batteries like there is no tomorrow?... i have had to replace it like 3 times in the same number of months..

and my bios is annoying me, i keep getting cmos checksum errors?...

i managed to hit 3.5Ghz stable 2 days ago...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


POOK! If that's stable,








If it's not stable...
























It's not.
But I never used to be able to post past 480, and it was unstable then. 
It can get about halfway through Super Pi 32M before it says some random error.

I'll get it.









Hell, even if it doesn't, who cares? My Pentium 3 rig just got a world record - I still like that rig better. >.>


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *x Swift x*


Ok... this mobo is sweet but damn do i have some annoyances with it...

is it just me... or does this board seem to eat through batteries like there is no tomorrow?... i have had to replace it like 3 times in the same number of months..

and my bios is annoying me, i keep getting cmos checksum errors?...

i managed to hit 3.5Ghz stable 2 days ago...


Very strange, never heard of this...
What BIOS are you on?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


It's not.
But I never used to be able to post past 480, and it was unstable then. 
It can get about halfway through Super Pi 32M before it says some random error.

I'll get it.









Hell, even if it doesn't, who cares? My Pentium 3 rig just got a world record - I still like that rig better. >.>


Wait, seriously? Like a real, world record?

PS- the guy above you has a 6300/P5N-E stable @ 3.5... LoLz...


----------



## x Swift x

Im on 0505.. but it used to happen at 0401..

and its getting soooooo annoying!!! to the point when it takes me like 3 resets to even be able to setup raid in my bios just so that i can boot!









lol im only went for it cos pook told me that only one 650i has hit 500fsb... and i am on water so that helps







... i hit it on air too but way too hot

and just tonight i have had some wierd problems where my bios would have all good settings but they would not change the clockspeed at all no matter what i did?


----------



## dpawl31

Only one 650i board @ 500...







Not true!
Anyway - that sounds like grounds for RMA to me... 
That's very odd.


----------



## x Swift x

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Only one 650i board @ 500...







Not true!
Anyway - that sounds like grounds for RMA to me... 
That's very odd.


lol well thats what pook told me...

dont say that!...







ive had it for like 3 months?..

im pretty sure its just the battery going, cos it goes away once i change battery...

does anyone get problems where when the pc wont boot, it wont boot until you reset cmos?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Wait, seriously? Like a real, world record?

PS- the guy above you has a 6300/P5N-E stable @ 3.5... LoLz...


Yeah, like, a, like, real, like world, like, record.

>.>


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



does anyone get problems where when the pc wont boot, it wont boot until you reset cmos?


I always had issues with that when trying to OC.
I related them to my D being a bit__......

If I restarted a few times, sometimes it would post enough to give me that "Oh crap you did something wrong, F1 to continue w/ defaults, del to re-enter everything" Sometimes I could go back in and reset everything and try again and it would complete post. _MOST_ of the time it would HANG after my DVD burners flashed and HDD would run constant, with no GPU post on the screen (pre-regular post?)

I would get on the ASUS boards and ask someone there about the battery thing. That is just plain strange. Sounds like maybe you have some kind of draw off the battery, maybe there is a short in the bios drawing power from it?
Maybe your BIOS is running straight from that CMOS battery, and not getting board power?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Yeah, like, a, like, real, like world, like, record.

>.>


----------



## The Pook

http://hwbot.org/user.do?userId=6906


----------



## dpawl31

Roffel... As in ROFL...
I wouldn't call that an *OFFICIAL* World Record, it's HWBot.
But still sweet nonetheless.


----------



## The Pook

Find me one that did better.


----------



## dpawl31

OK, so you have totally stolen the HWBot #1 Title. LoL.
I don't feel like looking it up, but I am sure there is some PIII on Phase gone crazy #'s lol.


----------



## The Pook

>_>
I still got a #1 record. Lawlz.

And the 4th best OC on OCN counts for something.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


It's fine to me.

If you guys are annoyed you didn't get a heatsink, just get one of these.

They're cheap ($18.50 USD MSRP), they're sexy (copper and sexy), and they cool kick-ass-ed-ly.


I want one of them now.


----------



## Sora1421

My board won't even turn on anymore....dunno why but my other board works just fine. I guess i'll have to RMA this one...


----------



## RX7-2nr

hows it going guys- first post.

i built a new computer using a P5n-e a couple weeks ago. starting out, i had the 2 1gb sticks of GSkill HZ in the black slots because i had read that they were more stable than the yellow slots. i got thousands of errors running Memtest86+ in the first 10 seconds. i took out the stick in slot 4 and it ran Memtest fine. put the known working stick in slot 4 and got a million errors again. i ended up putting the sticks in slots 1 and 3 (yellow), and its been fine since.

im not sure i should RMA it or just leave them in 1 and 3. im not even sure if its a problem with the MB.


----------



## The Pook

ZOMG. THIS BOARD MAKES ME WANNA SCREAM AND HUGGLE IT AT THE SAME DAMN TIME.

<.<
Get bored. 
Put 2000FSB in, reboot, and obviously it won't boot.
Go back into BIOS, crank ALL the voltages (cept CPU), won't boot. 
Go back into BIOS, crank ALL the voltages (cept CPU)again, boots.
I go all "OMG OMG OMG OMG." 
Won't get past the Asus logo screen. Further than I ever got.

Go back into BIOS, crank CPU voltage to 1.6v (!!!) and holy ****, I get to my bootloader before it tells me that something is corrupt, can't boot.

What the hell? Why can I get so close and then can't go into Windoze?









What I don't get is that on my 965PT, I could tap 3.6Ghz at 1.39v, no problem. This board makes me do 1.6v, which I don't like, just to get to a (corrupted) bootloader.

Eh.
It boots better with 1.5v than 1.7v through the NB too.
This board just hates voltages. 
D:


----------



## Sora1421

If you ask me that board is very buggy...I somehow fried my board that was already having BIOS problems and I'm sending it back to the egg and getting a P6N just becuase I haven't heard as many problems with those and they are cheaper.

There are Open Box P6N's at the egg for 65 bucks...should I go for it? Anyone have any experiences with open box mobos at the egg?


----------



## The Pook

If you can't afford the normal, go for it. If you can, get a new one. 
Sometimes you'll go through 5-6 before getting a good open-box one, other times you'll get it on the first shot.


----------



## Sora1421

Won't you end up paying 6 bucks shipping every time you order a new board though?

See I don't have a problem with my Biostar 965PT and I'm not a crazy overclocker (3.0ghz is plenty) but the placement of the 24 pin connector and 4 pin CPU are right smack dab in the middle as well as the 650i chipset offers better features but my new PSU with the flexforce cables lets me twist them up above in the space between my Arctic Freezer Pro 7 and the PSU so it doesn't look too bad. I guess I could purchase something else and just UV and Cold Cathode the case like crazy therefore it will blind the bad placement *****.


----------



## dpawl31

Pook... you are crazy...

















lol

Sora, don't go open box. It really isn't worth it.
For motherboards anyway, other things, depends.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RX7-2nr*


hows it going guys- first post.

i built a new computer using a P5n-e a couple weeks ago. starting out, i had the 2 1gb sticks of GSkill HZ in the black slots because i had read that they were more stable than the yellow slots. i got thousands of errors running Memtest86+ in the first 10 seconds. i took out the stick in slot 4 and it ran Memtest fine. put the known working stick in slot 4 and got a million errors again. i ended up putting the sticks in slots 1 and 3 (yellow), and its been fine since.

im not sure i should RMA it or just leave them in 1 and 3. im not even sure if its a problem with the MB.


Firstly- did you manually set memory timings (#-#-#-# 2T) and vdimm?
The black slot vs yellow slot thing was solved with the 03xx bios revision and later ones.
It sounds to me like your timings aren't right- remember this board ABSOLUTELY hates RAM running @ stock speed with AUTO timings.


----------



## b1gapl

w00t! Got my e6400 to 3.4GHz!. I know that's nothing, but I've been struggling a long time to get that.

Heres a pic:









And validation:
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=207334


----------



## Asce

Nice one, im hoping to hit something like that with mine. Dpawl31 it looks like i should have this board up and running either at the end of the month or early in the first week of July.


----------



## dpawl31

Awesome Asce!

Nice job b1gapl!


----------



## The Pook

dpawl31 - my board is crazier than me.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


w00t! Got my e6400 to 3.4GHz!. I know that's nothing, but I've been struggling a long time to get that.

Heres a pic:









And validation:
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=207334


Chase me.


----------



## b1gapl

whoa, that's awesome. What are your settings and BIOS version? Also what ram do you have. I think my ram is going to hold me back.


----------



## The Pook

Just learn your timings. I spent a day finding down to the last number what works and what doesn't at 960Mhz with my RAM. It looks like a jungle in my BIOS (459495495849584958 is my timing page more or less.







), but you'll shave off about .25 of a second just by finding out your timings yourself in the subtiming section and manually putting them in yourself.

My RAM can't do past 970 and my board can't do past 485FSB, so I'm stuck there too.


----------



## dpawl31

Pook I am thinking if you got yourself better RAM to push you to 1030 I bet your board would get to 515...

I think you need 1:1 to get that high with your chip. Maybe it's not your board hating your chip, its your board holding back your RAM? Was your Biostar running the same RAM?


----------



## The Pook

Nope.
One stick can do 1022, other can only do 985. When the others stick is out, same board limit.

If I run unlinked, I can get the stick to run 1022, and the board at 485, but times are slow because I have to run CL5 and single channel. (With the slower stick out, obviously)


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



When the others stick is out, same board limit.


So you have tried 1:1 with that one stick, and no go > 485?


----------



## The Pook

It'll go to 487.5, like in the validation shot, but it goes all OMG OMG before going anywhere.

The board is limited at 485 benchable, ~490 semi-bootable. I already know that.







I've tried pretty much every scenario possible.









Hell, I even tried a E6400 that I knew could do 3.88Ghz (borrowed from a buddy of mine) and dropped the multi to x7, and it couldn't get past the same mark as my E6300.


----------



## dpawl31

Suxors!
Well - I'd be happy with a 1.86 C2D at this point, so be happy damnit. lol.


----------



## The Pook

I'm not.


----------



## dpawl31

Someone needs to take their depression pills


----------



## The Pook

You mean Vodka?


----------



## dpawl31

makes you
















and also























But it's really








and it's just like








which I believe is


----------



## The Pook

Exactly what I was thinking.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Just learn your timings. I spent a day finding down to the last number what works and what doesn't at 960Mhz with my RAM. It looks like a jungle in my BIOS (459495495849584958 is my timing page more or less.







), but you'll shave off about .25 of a second just by finding out your timings yourself in the subtiming section and manually putting them in yourself.

My RAM can't do past 970 and my board can't do past 485FSB, so I'm stuck there too.

Since I'm on auto with subs, is there a program to check the sub timings with?


----------



## The Pook

It's in the screenie I posted.

It doesn't show all (missing 3), but it's decent.
It's semi-buggy when changing timings though. It'll freak out and crash when it's stable if you go into the BIOS and change it. It's decent though.


----------



## DonNiger

I'm going below zero (celsius). Hoping to hit atleast 4.2 Ghz. Also, that frying NB should stay around zero. 
At the moment temp is too high for 1.6v.
Hate the local Customs who is just keeping my new 1 kw PSU in their stock. Hope to have the rig once again buck in business before a July. Otherwize ....

E: lost my best screen (13.30s) but 2nd so far is


----------



## Delphi

Hey Pook what bios are you running. Im doing 0604, cant really tell if it is any good. Im going to overclock more when i get my new cooler. Just sitting at a 2.4ghz oc. Have pushed to 2.7ghz at 1.3v in bios, 1.28vdue to vdroop, when to 2.7 just to break 10k in 3dmark 06. But anyways, i would like to no what kind of bios your running. I also have to say i hate how you cant post when you go a lil to far in oc.

Thanks Delphi


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Delphi*


Hey Pook what bios are you running. Im doing 0604, cant really tell if it is any good. Im going to overclock more when i get my new cooler. Just sitting at a 2.4ghz oc. Have pushed to 2.7ghz at 1.3v in bios, 2.8due to vdroop, when to 2.7 just to break 10k in 3dmark 06.


I don't quite understand... how do you "vdroop" processor speed?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Delphi*


But anyways, i would like to no what kind of bios your running. I also have to say i *hate how you cant post when you go a lil to far in oc*.


Just the nature of the beast mah man.


----------



## Delphi

opps typo man, its fixed tho


----------



## dpawl31

1.3 --> 1.28 vdroop is actually very good for this board


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Delphi* 
Hey Pook what bios are you running. Im doing 0604, cant really tell if it is any good. Im going to overclock more when i get my new cooler. Just sitting at a 2.4ghz oc. Have pushed to 2.7ghz at 1.3v in bios, 1.28vdue to vdroop, when to 2.7 just to break 10k in 3dmark 06. But anyways, i would like to no what kind of bios your running. I also have to say i hate how you cant post when you go a lil to far in oc.

Thanks Delphi

Latest.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
1.3 --> 1.28 vdroop is actually very good for this board









Read the vCore from the board, not CPU-Z.

BIOS says 1.35v, CPU-Z says 1.269v. Multimeter says 1.29v.
Worth the 10 seconds to find out.


----------



## dpawl31

Hey when you buy your 8800 GTS... will you sell me your 7600GT?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Read the vCore from the board, not CPU-Z.

BIOS says 1.35v, CPU-Z says 1.269v. Multimeter says 1.29v.
Worth the 10 seconds to find out.

Always wanted to know where to test that... can ya help me out?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hey when you buy your 8800 GTS... will you sell me your 7600GT?









I won't be getting it for a while. Probably be my X-Mas present to myself. <.<

But sure. Assume keep it volt modded?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Always wanted to know where to test that... can ya help me out?



























And....










If you can, put your chipset at the 1.5x option and tell me your NB volts. I wanna know if mine is too low/too high or not.


----------



## dpawl31

Obviously I am testing w/ DC voltage @ < 2v settings, but what am I attaching the ground to?

I will test 1.5v NB tomorrow for you







Once I find out exactly how to test.
Oh, and I can wait till Xmas







Keeping it voltmodded won't bother my BFG card will it? Otherwise, sure







How much do you want for it come XMAS?


----------



## The Pook

Ground = any bare, non-painted metal/aluminum surface. I use a my HDD cage or the bottom of my case when it's in my case.

As for vmodded, it'll slow itself down to match your BFG. (If mine is at 785/1760, and yours is at 600/1600, my card will clock down to match.) Kinda defeats the purpose - it'll be pumping out extra heat from extra voltage just to stay close to stock.









And I unno. If I get a 8800GTS come Christmas I won't be able to use my VF700 on it -- different brackets -- so I'd want to sell that with it.

And I unno as far as prices. We'll see.







Probably around the $85 mark.


----------



## dpawl31

>.<

$85... by XMAS a matching BFG 7600GT OC will be $50. lol.


----------



## The Pook

Low end card prices don't change much.

Low end card prices from last gen don't change much, at that.

Like I said, I don't know. It's a good 6 months off, and that's IF I decide to get a 8800GTS.


----------



## dpawl31

Hell, considering I am not going vista (no DX10) I might as well stick to CPU/RAM/HDD upgrades for now.

Wishlist = e6420, 2GB D9's, RAID-0 Perp drives.
Hell, I think I am going to add a wishlist like yours to my sig


----------



## The Pook

>_>
I already changed my mind again.

**** 8800GTS. I'm going ATI.








(That is, if they price drop into the mid-low $300 range by Christmas







)


----------



## The Pook

Ha! dpawl is playing with himself!


----------



## dpawl31




----------



## The Pook

No wishlist, then?


----------



## dpawl31

Just finished








They need to set the BB code to allow more room. How the hell did you fit all that







I can't enter much more and it says 1200 characters max including BB code.


----------



## Betrivent

So! I'm here to join the P5N-E SLI Club. Uhm.. let's see... somethign to add.. Ah yes! Anybody else notice that it's weird that the memory voltage in the bios jumps from 2.087 to 2.178 (or something close to that number)? :O


----------



## rsfkevski

Not weird, actually those are good numbers for memory voltages. A little unusual to see such EXACT voltages, but not weird. Welcome to the P5N-E SLI club BTW!!


----------



## Betrivent

I thought it was just odd to have such a large increment when the other voltage options are pretty fine in adjustments' sense.


----------



## rsfkevski

Yeah, now that I think about it, those increases are quite far apart. I dunno why honestly, but they seem to work well with the G.Skill memory sticks!


----------



## dpawl31

rsfkevski is our official unofficial member. lol.
Not a proud owner, but a proud user. If that makes sense O_O

I believe the vdimm is designed that way so, let's say you really had 2.1v.
And your board fluttered around 2.12v ish. And your warranty was void > 2.1v.
You are now void. O_O

Then again, they really will never know, but you get the idea


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Betrivent*


I thought it was just odd to have such a large increment when the other voltage options are pretty fine in adjustments' sense.


Ah... odd indeed, wasn't thinking about the jump.
But, most ram is for 1.9v, 2.0v, or 2.1v... so there ya go.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 







Awesome Asce!

That is if my car plays ball


----------



## b1gapl

lol....I got it to 3.6GHz, for the heck of it...I doubt it's stable...










Validation:
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=207734

w00t! 17.25s SuperPi...

Does anyone know if this XMS2 RAM I have, can handle tighter timings? I have it at manufacturers spec 5-5-5-18.

Also is it ok to set the NB voltage to the last one, at 1.748v?


----------



## dpawl31

Asce- what _exactly_ is wrong with your car?

b1gapl, that's awesome. Have you stressed it yet?
One would assume you might be able to tighten that ram...









Don't use 1.7v NB O_O Unless you have an aftermarket NB cooler and damn good airflow, and wish to shave a few years off your board life. (No big deal from 10+ years back a few...)


----------



## b1gapl

tried 4-4-4-12, didn't boot.

I stressed it, but it's not stable. Gotta play around with the settings more.

I do have two 40mm fans on the stock NB heatsink.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Asce- what _exactly_ is wrong with your car?

b1gapl, that's awesome. Have you stressed it yet?
One would assume you might be able to tighten that ram...









Don't use 1.7v NB O_O Unless you have an aftermarket NB cooler and damn good airflow, and wish to shave a few years off your board life. (No big deal from 10+ years back a few...)

1.7v is nothing, really...just don't leave it 24/7. Mine has been on 1.74v no problems, only airflow is the run-off from the fan on my HSF. Keeps it under 40C all the time.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Hmm.. I've just used my multimeter to test my CPU voltage, but I find the results quite weird.. In BIOS it's set to 1.39xxx with offset voltage on (+100mV), but the multimeter reads 1.578V 

I've placed the + on as shown on the picture Pook provided and placed the ground on the bottom of my case..

Everst ultimate reads 1.50 (sometimes 1.47) and CPU-Z reads 1.238 or 1.47... It's all pretty weird :/


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b1gapl* 







tried 4-4-4-12, didn't boot.

I stressed it, but it's not stable. Gotta play around with the settings more.

I do have two 40mm fans on the stock NB heatsink.

Are you @ 1.5v NB?
How long did it run while stressing?
Are you on 2T?

I am asking questions because if you can get in Windows there is a *decent* chance you can stabilize, even if only a little.

Pook, you are nuts. lol.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe* 
Hmm.. I've just used my multimeter to test my CPU voltage, but I find the results quite weird.. In BIOS it's set to 1.39xxx with offset voltage on (+100mV), but the multimeter reads 1.578V 

I've placed the + on as shown on the picture Pook provided and placed the ground on the bottom of my case..

Everst ultimate reads 1.50 (sometimes 1.47) and CPU-Z reads 1.238 or 1.47... It's all pretty weird :/









That's odd.
Maybe you are testing the NB instead?


----------



## Betrivent

Does this board have a sensor for the NB? Because I'm kidn of curious how hot mine is running - 'twas quite hot yesterday when I opened my case to have a peek around.


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Are you @ 1.5v NB?
How long did it run while stressing?
Are you on 2T?

I am asking questions because if you can get in Windows there is a *decent* chance you can stabilize, even if only a little.

Pook, you are nuts. lol.

I've been on 1.5v NB for a long time. Since having it at 3.1GHz...At 3.1-3.2GHz I can run Orthos for a couple of hours, and then run the SMP for a couple of days, with no problems.

And my memory is on 2T.

I can get into Windows, for a few hours on 3.5-3.6GHz, until I run the [email protected] SMP client, it just restarts.


----------



## Farmerjoe

I don't think I'm measuring the voltage for the northbridge since it's on 1.39 and not 1.56. I'm sure I'm doing it as the picture shows, don't know what's going wrong :/

Btw is there any way to measure NB temps? Mine is extremely hot. There's an HR-05- SLI on it, and I think it's mounted properly. I'm thinking of giving it 1.56v instead of 1.39 to increase stability, but I don't know about the heat.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



it just restarts.


Sounds like maybe your PSU is getting drawn out?
I was getting restarts with my junk old Powmax PSU (your Hiper is > by far)
But still, I don't know the specs but it *may* be drawing too much power and causing ripple or something. I don't know enough about PSUs though. But I got restarts like that.

So far, if I got in windows and my OC was unstable, it would just freeze - not restart.


----------



## dpawl31

Oh and farmer/bet, the NB thing has not been proven yet...
Some say the Motherboard temp is between the PCI slots... 
Some say it's the mean (average) of the NB/SB, which is what I believe...
Nobody has yet to bring solid proof to the table on that though.

*EDIT* This is post # 1,983 for me... my birthyear, sweet. lol. 17 to go for 2k!


----------



## The Pook

Dude, the +100mv should only be used if you have bad vDroop. If you don't, don't use it.

It adds about .1-.15vv to your vCore -- hence why your at the 1.5v (+) mark.

In low voltages, I use it all the time, because it only adds about .05v, which lands me where I should be. But in higher voltages, vDroop is usually more, so it adds more voltage. If you don't have vDroop, you shouldn't even be using it.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Okay, I guess the only way to get a good idea of what the NB temp is, is to put a thermometer/probe thingy on the heatsink. My HR-05 on the NB is getting freakin hot, it really hurts to touch it and it's only getting 1.39V. I don't know whether or not it's good to have it on 1.56V since it's so freakin warm.

I'm thinking of cutting a hole in my CM C5 sidepanel and installing a 120mm to blow cool air over the NB / ram area. A dremel should be fine for that right?

EDIT: Just read your reply pook, thanks







I'll disable it and try to measure the Vcore with a multimeter, although it got me some weird results last time.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Dude, the +100mv should only be used if you have bad vDroop. If you don't, don't use it.

It adds about .1-.15vv to your vCore -- hence why your at the 1.5v (+) mark.

In low voltages, I use it all the time, because it only adds about .05v, which lands me where I should be. But in higher voltages, vDroop is usually more, so it adds more voltage. If you don't have vDroop, you shouldn't even be using it.


I'll believe it reduces vdroop when I see some









Otherwise, I'd say it just adds 0.1v

Farmer- Mod away







That sounds like a fun job. But, it may or may not help the NB.
You'd be better off putting a 40/60mm right on the stock sink.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Asce- what _exactly_ is wrong with your car?

Well since the start of the month it will have been in the garage 3 times on Friday







and all for different reasons. But like i said i should be ok for July and even better if i get my bonus


----------



## dpawl31

Man that's no good.
I hate when other expenses get in the way of PC upgrades...

ie... my wedding...


----------



## Asce

I know what you mean. Has anyone found out if the E6420 can run at 2.4Ghz on stock Vcore?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I'll believe it reduces vdroop when I see some









Otherwise, I'd say it just adds 0.1v

Farmer- Mod away







That sounds like a fun job. But, it may or may not help the NB.
You'd be better off putting a 40/60mm right on the stock sink.

Put vcore at 1.3v. Check with multimeter.
Add +100mv. Check with multimeter.

Proof.
Jesus. Try stuff yourself.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Put vcore at 1.3v. Check with multimeter.
Add +100mv. Check with multimeter.

Proof.
Jesus. Try stuff yourself.









Eh sheddup punk. lol.
I still don't like the idea of using a multimeter around so many other parts, I don't want to short anything


----------



## The Pook

Afraid you might hurt your Core 2 D-oh. Wait.









>.>


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 









Afraid you might hurt your Core 2 D-oh. Wait.









>.>

Hey, how them ambients treatin yah?
Bet 515FSB is real close now, huh.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hey, how them ambients treatin yah?
Bet 515FSB is real close now, huh.










Pretty good actually. About 32-33C today.








515FSB? 487.5FSB actually makes me really happy, when I realize I'm not running an 820 with a _whole_ 265FSB *(!!! BALLIN !!!)*


----------



## dpawl31

Don't MAKE my 2,000th post be a virtual beyatch-slap.

lol.


----------



## The Pook

I wonder if I was at 265 FSB, if I could be as cool as dpawl.

Too bad my stock is higher than your OC.


----------



## dpawl31

Post # 2,001...

Be-hotch Slap --> Pook.

I hate you. lol.


----------



## The Pook

Be-hotch?

That like, butterscotch?
I got like a gallon drum of them somewhere.


----------



## dpawl31

Butterscotch is great stuff.
Unlike Pook.
As in Pook < Butterscotch.

Er, Back OT.

What is the cheapest Micron D9 2GB kit I can get that will work with this board?

PS - Pook smells like rotten butterscotch.


----------



## The Pook

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820144062

Or.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231065

And no. I smell like butterscotch and sweet tea. Noob.


----------



## dpawl31

For some reason I think GSkill > Geil...
Maybe it's just the looks, maybe it's just a rumor I have in my head...
Thanks Pook.
Oh, maybe it's cuz Pook uses Geil... O_O
Yeah, that's it. lol

You Smell Like Old Lady Farts!


----------



## The Pook

GeIL likes tight timings, and decent speeds. (Caps at about DDR2-1100 on average.)

G.Skill likes clock speeds. (DDR2-1200 + , looser timings.)

I don't see a reason to get my ram going past that speed, so I went for the GeIL. 3-3-2-3 @ DDR2-800 2.1v and 4-3-3-5 @ DDR2-985 2.3v is plenty for me.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
GeIL likes tight timings, and decent speeds. (Caps at about DDR2-1100 on average.)

G.Skill likes clock speeds. (DDR2-1200 + , looser timings.)

I don't see a reason to get my ram going past that speed, so I went for the GeIL. 3-3-2-3 @ DDR2-800 2.1v and 4-3-3-5 @ DDR2-985 2.3v is plenty for me.

Ah, good to know







REP


----------



## Farmerjoe

#dpawl31

I've got a HR-05-SLI on my NB. I've tried holding a 120mm fan in the position that it would be in if I modded my side panel and it doesn't really help the temps that much because the fins on the heatsink are parallel with the fan, so only the top of the heatpipes + the first fin is getting cooled.

There's support for a 70mm fan(or any less if you mod it a bit I guess), but I'm a bit concerned about the extra weight, although a small fan doesn't weigh that much. The heatsink has a bracket going cornerwise over the heatsink and it's secured with the standard plastic clip thingies. I think it's in good contact with the NB core, but I can tilt it very easily :/


----------



## The Pook

You can easily fit a 80mm fan on it with some zipties.

Also, you won't break anything by putting a fan on it. The mounting brackets are fine. They can hold a good amount of weight.









I was going to buy one....but I got a stack of 100 DVDs instead when I realized that 36C constant is fine on the stock heatsink. <_<


----------



## Farmerjoe

36ºC? . I literally burn my finger when I put it on my heatsink, it's unpleasantly hot, but I don't know the exact temperature of it.


----------



## The Pook

It should. If it's cool to the touch, then the heatsink isn't doing its job.







It needs to take the heat off the core, and to the heatsink. If it's cold, you either have incredibly lower ambients, a bad mount job, or an overkill heatsink.









Download Everest Home Edition. The temp in there is the average of your SB and NB temps, though, so it's just a rough estimate -- but it's better than nothing.


----------



## Farmerjoe

I have an Everst Ultimate trial edition, and the Motherboard Temperature says 48degress when I'm just sufring the net.


----------



## dpawl31

ACK! That's nuts.
And if it really feels that hot, it's probably not a faulty sensor.
Did you ever reseat your NB with AS5?
Asus does botch jobs, sometimes applying WAY too much, which is actually worse than a bare heatsink!


----------



## The Pook

Wewt.
I'm getting a "free" upgrade of RAM.









My RAM is either slowly dying or just knocked itself down a peg for no reason (used to be stable 485 4-3-3-6, now it's only 4-4-3-8), so I'm RMAing. (Ha...RAM...RMA...roffle.)

Newegg doesn't carry my kit anymore, gunna get the Crucial Ballistix because...well...this...










I get $185 for my kit...I buy that kit off the 'egg for $140, and I get an MX518 with it for no extra money.









Now, I just gotta cross my fingers and hope I don't get a dud kit, and hopefully I won't die using my P3 rig until my RAM comes in.


----------



## dpawl31

P3 rig, oh wait, the world record holder? Roffle!


----------



## The Pook

Damn right.

Don't see you holding any records with that furnace.


----------



## DiagnosisDirt

Hey I just got the 32 plus version of this board , seems like a good board.
But it just turns on and does nothing ...
I have 2gb of GEIL ddr2 pc2-8500.
e6420 with tuniq tower.
two WD 160 gb hd's.
Asus dvd-rw.
550 antec true power.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DiagnosisDirt*


Hey I just got the 32 plus version of this board , seems like a good board.
But it just turns on and does nothing ...
I have 2gb of GEIL ddr2 pc2-8500.
e6420 with tuniq tower.
two WD 160 gb hd's.
Asus dvd-rw.
550 antec true power.


You mean P5N32-E PLUS?
That's not our board, ours is the P5N-E
You want THIS thread.








Robilar ought to help you over there.
That thread is not the PLUS one, but I don't really remember the difference.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


rsfkevski is our official unofficial member. lol.
Not a proud owner, but a proud user. If that makes sense O_O

I believe the vdimm is designed that way so, let's say you really had 2.1v.
And your board fluttered around 2.12v ish. And your warranty was void > 2.1v.
You are now void. O_O

Then again, they really will never know, but you get the idea










Yes, I AM a very proud user of this MB, used it already in 6 builds for clients, most of which have an E6600. The farthest I've been able to push them stable, on short OCing sessions, is 3.5. Different settings on different setups. The G.Skill memory seems to work very well with these P5N-E SLI boards. I have not had one "bad" board yet, nor have I had any builds not boot and install Windows immediately after first boot! I don't have pictures of all of the builds, but one that I did take pics on included the Thermalright HR-05 SLI chipset cooler (active or passive BTW) on the NB and SB of the board. I LOVE IT!!!

BTW: I do not leave the OC's on the PC's that I build. If the client wishes for me to teach them the in's and out's of OCing, so that they may venture down that road themselves, it's an additional $45/hr tutorial OCing session on their own PC. I've only had 1 client in the last 12 months that actually wanted to learn everything they could about OCing. After everything was all said and done, the guy ended up with an E6420 running @ 3.2 for an additional $90. Then, of course I directed him to this site to continue his OCing education!!!


----------



## The Pook

I'm really wanting to go Quad Core, but from what I'm hearing, it's not a great board for pushing Quads. (P35's can push much farther than 965's, and from what I'm told, 965s are better than 6x0i's for quads).

Got any experience on the P5N-E with a quad?


----------



## rsfkevski

I personally haven't had a client that wants to spend that much money for something that isn't even utilized yet. Just not cost effective seeing as I build rigs that are pretty much the "best-bang-for-your-buck" no matter what they are doing on them!


----------



## The Pook

Ah. 









Guess I gotta aim for getting my P5K Deluxe or P35-DQ6 before my quad then.


----------



## rsfkevski

I wouldn't do that just yet Pook. The P5N-E MB's are Quad-Core compatible. Get your quad and try it on your MB FIRST! Then, if it doesn't OC the way you'd like, look into a newer chipset!


----------



## The Pook

It won't be for a while, I promise.


----------



## rsfkevski

I already have 2 clients that are wanting me to build them systems around it later in July, when Q6600's are suppose to drop well below 3 bills, I've convinced my clients that these CPU's are more futureproof. I DO plan on using the P5N-E on the first Quad-Core build, so maybe I'll have enough personal experience by the end of August to enlighten everyone on this combination. Eventually, the software companies will catch up with Intel's advances in technology and everything will be right as wine again.


----------



## The Pook

Let us know, man. Hopefully I won't have to invest in a new board.









I know people that were limited at ~350FSB on 965 boards, but with the P35's, same voltages and everything, were able to hit 425FSB + on Quads...


----------



## rsfkevski

Usually I don't take the time, unless paid to, to perform an in depth OCing session. You and I both know that you can spend HOURS within the Bios tweaking every little thing to get that BEST stable OC. We'll see though! I usually build the PC's at the home of the client. People get a serious thrill from watching their $1500 computer being built before their very eyes. After installing OS and updating everything, there's usually not much time left in the day, or night, for an extensive OCing session.....hence why I charge to come back for one!!!


----------



## The Pook

Haha. Sounds like you got a nice little "business" going.









Just do it for spare cash, or you do it full time?


----------



## rsfkevski

Right now just for extra money to keep the wife quiet. LOL---I'm moving 1200 miles south, back to my home state, so I'm gonna loose all my current clients. But, on the upside of things, I know ALOT more people where I'm going, and as you well know, word of mouth is the best advertisement there is! In my full-time job(Optical Manager), I talk to hundreds of people a week. From those, on average, about 2 clients a week. It's not a full-time thing, YET, but who knows. Once I get to my new place with a population quadrupling what I see now, the sky's the limit! Now the hard part is keeping the wife from thinking that all this is EXTRA income. LOL Why do you think I'm still sitting on a skt478? You guessed it, the wife!!!!!


----------



## Christiaan

Hey hey. So I went on a shopping spree today. lol

Ordered those Antec TriCools (blue) 120mm fans. Hopefully cooling my CPU more so I can overclock more! Antec 40mm fan for the NB heatsink, ThermalTake RAM cooler and 7600GT with a Zalman VF-900.








And a 2GB kit from Corsair. Same as in my sig, just the 2GB one. To buy another 1GB would actually be more expensive. :/
Oh and a webcam.









I'll post some pictures of the mod I'll do on my SB heatsink to fit SLi as I promised you dpawl. If you got my pm that is.










PS. Also ordered HL2 Episode 1. xD

*note*
Any parts to be discarded, in this case 1GB of Corsair RAM, will go to the Folding PC. ^^


----------



## The Pook

Sweet.


----------



## Farmerjoe

:/ I have no clue whatsoever about what's up with my core voltage. Everest and ASUS PCprobe reads 1.5V, CPU-Z reads 1.47V or 1.236V and my multimeter reads 1.578V. These values are all much higher than the 1.4V Vcore I've set in BIOS. I've got the Vcore Offset on +100mV.. I've tried putting it on auto but then it can't even get into Windows









As for the NB..
1st: Are you sure that the MB readings in Everest (which happens to be the same as in PCprobe) is the average of the SB and NB? My SB is still naked and pretty hot, so if that MB reading is what it is, it's still pretty useless isn't it?

2nd: I haven't got any AS5 so I'm using the zalman STG-1 that came with my 9700. I've applied a pretty thin layer on the NB core, placed the protective cloth pad on my heatsink and installed it with the bracket and plastic clips - the heatsink gets freakin warm so I guess it does have good contact with the core, although the mounting method is pretty weak in my opinion (because I can easily tilt the heatsink if I touch it)


----------



## The Pook

CPU-Z has problems with over 1.4xx voltage (forgot what it was) to where it shoes a low voltage.

If your multimeter says it, it's right.
Software is usually "ok" at detecting voltages, but it's never as accurate as what a multimeter says. (Only way for a multimeter reading to be wrong is if you're using it wrong, or you have a bad multimeter.)

I'm pretty sure it's the average. Put a heatsink on the SB, your MB temps go down. Take it off, they go up. Put a heatsink on the NB, your mobo temps go down. Either that, or the sensor is junk.

If mounted perfectly, there is little difference between paste...but you shouldn't be able to "wiggle" the heatsink.  If temps are OK, then I wouldn't really worry about it.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Well I trust my multimeter, but the results is just weird. It could be that the place on the picture you provided is the Vcore before it gets regulated if you know what I mean. So the 1.578V I measured with the multimeter is the maximum core voltage and in the voltage regulator it gets regulated to the value I've set the Vcore in the BIOS to.. just a thought.

Well I don't know if my NB temp is okay, but I guess it's fine since the MB temp reading is 45º, so the absolute maximum the NB could be is 90º if the SB is 0º, but they are both pretty hot so I guess it's like NB=45 and SB=45, although my immediate guess would be a lot higher due to the burnt finger of mine ^^.
The problem with the mounting of my heatsink is that it's only secured with a corner wise bracket going over the base of the heatsink. There's nothing restricting me from turning it a bit since the only thing keeping it in place is tension of the two plastic clips. I guess there's nothing else to do than try to place something with similar weight of a 70-80mm fan on top of the heatsink and see if it tilts.

Thanks for all the help







Great thread with lots of valuable information.


----------



## The Pook

The same place reads fine for me, as does on everyone at VR-Zone, so I dunno what to say.

vDimm - 2.35v BIOS - 2.3v actual
Chipset - 1.5v (1.583...?) - 1.56v actual.
vCore - 1.45v BIOS - 1.41v SpeedFan, 1.402v CPU-Z, 1.33v actual.


----------



## The Pook

BTW dpawl, my rig in my system specs is almost as bad as yours.


----------



## dpawl31

Aw dang, that things a beast. haha.
8MB PCI GPU... LMAO...

I built a P5N rig for a coworker, been working on photoshop, dreamweaver, 3DStudio, Illustrator 10, etc... on a ~790mhz Dell... roffle...

Anyway, he has waited over a week to fire it up at home, as he _says_ he's been too busy. Now I get an email that says:
He can't install the TV Tuner, which I am sure I can fix.
He can't install Norton Antivirus, which he didn't elaborate on








He plugged in his ethernet and said it was "chugging like it was sending/receiving a lot, and I put the security on the highest and it seemed to solve it"... WTH is this...I think it may have just been XP updating... he had SP2 from 2 years ago.
He asked me if FreeRAMXP Pro was neccessary... I told him it's not, but it's nice to have, and he thinks it's causing some of his "install issues"...
God, I hate when crap goes wrong with anything with a build, makes me look like a tool, and I feel so bad, but most likely he's the one exaggerating or too ignorant to know what he's doing, I should have told him I would install EVERYTHING for him, jesus.


----------



## The Pook

I know. It's a beast. It can like, fold a 3010 WU in 88 days.









Er, easiest thing to do -- reinstall XP. Install the programs yourself. Install the drivers yourself. Install everything yourself. Patches. Programs. Anything. That way, if everything is fine, then it starts to chug, you undo what you did last.

It's easier than solving 50 problems which can be fixed in half the time and done in a cleaner manner.


----------



## dpawl31

We'll see what happens when I get a chance to go over there... problem is my car is not registered as I registered/inspected my motorcycle instead and I can't take his PC back home on my bike O_O

So I'll have to get over there, soon, before he's too angry O_O


----------



## The Pook

Get your ass on your fourwheeler. Hit the trails and bring some bungie cables to tie it to your back rack on the 'wheeler.

Duh.

(Talking about that, I got in a nasty "wreck" with a truck today on my 250. <_>)


----------



## dpawl31

Trails... hmm... if I had even SEMI legal trails to work, it's ~30 miles, and I would most definately do that. lol.

How's your 250 after that meeting? lol...


----------



## The Pook

Cracked a fender...but I have (had) two in the shed. Just threw the stock on back on.

His truck rolled over. I texted like 5 people after it happened and they thought I was bull****ting until a few drove down to help me help the guy roll his truck back over.









I was going down a hill and he was going up the hill...the way the hill was he couldn't see me and I couldn't see him. He saw me before I saw him and he tried to turn and I ended up hitting his door and somehow hit him enough to push his truck over and he rolled down the hill. <_<;

It was some 13 old kid and his buddy in it and it was "only" a Suzuki Samurai and the kids were cool. They owned a junk yard and when they want to mess around they hit the sand pits with junk cars they get running.

I started talking to him while I was waiting for people to help get his Sammy flipped back over and he has on of those road legal DOT 850CC water cooled Yamaha four wheelers...the ones they use for power line maintenance. We raced.









I kicked his ass starting out, but he had a higher top end than I did and caught up.

Given the length we raced, he caught up to me everytime. I wanted that four wheeler.







He said it topped at around 95 if you don't mind it screaming, and you give it enough space. The thing was HEAVY though. (Well, it was 850CC, I expected that.







)

</Off topic>


----------



## dpawl31

Yamaha doesn't make any quads > 700cc (fuel injected)
Was it a Rhino? (660) SidebySide... Otherwise maybe it was some side part of the company, like non-retail... wierd!

Bikes always beat the heavy quads off the line, so light.
But we catch up...







And then we're more stable at high speed, so lookout. lol.

Good thing only your fender broke









Anyway- I found some LED's on a two pin power w/ molex adapter... and an 80mm fan from a CPU (it's real thin, not a standard 80mm) And the thing moves more air than my old normal 80mm... loud though








Wonder what I can do with them?









The LED's are two red and two blue. Wonder how I can mod them into my case...

PS- Pook, how do I get the gallery link (camera) in my left panel?
I always had to link to it via sig, now my BB code is too long and I can't fit it. I want the camera!


----------



## The Pook

It's an option in your CP.









And it was in Yamaha four-wheeler colors -- dark green and a semi-metalitic blueish color (faded from green to the blue) -- but he didn't say it was. Just figured it was being those colors. Definatly was 850CC though. Had it plastered all of it. I see some of the DOT people riding on them every once ina while, but they're usually camo with the orange triangle deal on 'em. 850CC as well.

And put the fan blowing over your RAM...put it in the 5.25 bay so you don't see it, it just glows. And so it keeps your RAM cool.


----------



## dpawl31

The fan doesn't have LEDs in it, they are seperate (removed from face of my old demon case, in my gallery)

The cooling on my RAM is fine, if you saw my gallery I have the optical drives down the bottom, so I have a tricool blowing right to the RAM then the CPU cooler.
I have been pondering using the adapter to put the side 120mm tricool on the back of that cage, to have TWO 120s making a windtunnel out of that cage, right at my CPU HS... and RAM... hah!

Oh and I have no clue what you saw... nobody makes an 850 from what I can see... 800's sure...
The Grizzly 700 FI is the worlds best buit 4x4... ever. 
I have the DVD that proves it








I only have the 450 grizz, only differences are non-LCD gas guage, smaller size/motor, and no power steering. Meh, I can do nearly all the 700 can do, and go places it can't due to size (but it can go a buttload faster







some say ~100MPH)


----------



## _^MeRcY

Hello, I recently bought a Asus P5N-E mobo. Could anyone help me setup, save the profile and how to start overclocking ?


----------



## dpawl31

Hey guys, I dropped Mercy in here.
He's going to need some help setting up his sig rig.
He gets all the parts tomorrow.
No he's not my lover, pook. Don't get jealous O_O
Just someone I met on here, aimed him @ P5N-E and now he needs help.
I won't be around tomorrow when he gets his parts, and it's >2am right now I need to go to bed before it's >= 4am like I get stuck usually









He'll need:
Basic how-to's of normal bios setup (what to disable/enable etc)
How to save his OC Profile of stock settings.
Basic how-to of RAM timings and vdimm
Then some How-to-bump-yer-frunt-said-buzz and vcorz!
Thanks, faithful P5Ners.
(PS, Mercy, don't listen to Pook, he uses a PIII and thinks it's an e6300 on a P5N-E, he's 







)

(just kidding, I trust him, a lot)

(maybe





















)


----------



## _^MeRcY

^^ <3







~


----------



## The Pook

Dude, I told you no more threesomes after you drug Kopi in. D:

Erm.
Yeah. I'm heading out too. I won't be here all weekend for the beach, but I'll check in tomorrow morning and help out if I don't oversleep.


----------



## _^MeRcY

thank you pook if you can help


----------



## dpawl31

Cmon, you as well as anybody knows Kopi loves it...errrrr where is he anyway.
Last I heard from him he was tied up in your closet wearing a corset...









I am sure someone will be around to help you out Mercy. Pray to god the guy above me is not it.







haha


----------



## The Pook

The guy above you is Mercy. Noob. *laughs*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*


Hello, I recently bought a Asus P5N-E mobo. Could anyone help me setup, save the profile and how to start overclocking ?


First, before saying anything, some of the words I use might be a bit off since I can't use my computer right now to check the exact layout of the BIOS, but I'm pretty sure. But, anyway.

Before touching anything in the BIOS, go to the Tools page (like I said, not sure the exact name of the catagory it's labeled as, but under the topic there is EZ Flash 2 and an OC Profile -- just click on the Profile maker, it'll ask slot 1, slot 2, or file. File is if you wanna save on a flash drive, slots one and two are built into the BIOS chip on the board.) If you don't have a flash drive (or an external HDD), just save it to slot one.

On older revision BIOS, NEVER save to slot 2 without having saved anything in slot 1. It caused some corrupt BIOS' in some mobos...but it seems to be worked out now. Just don't do it, just in case you're on the unlucky ones that happens to do it to.

For the sake of saying it, to to Asus and download the latest BIOS, put it on an external HDD or flash drive, boot back into BIOS, go to the EZ Flash 2 tool, and browse to the BIOS and flash it. Do NOT restart while it's flashing and don't touch it while it's flashing until it says it's done.









Go back into BIOS and go to the page that just has OCing options. (Can't even think of the name...I just woke up. D: )

Change it from "AUTO" to "MANUAL" and it should all the options from while to gray so you can change 'em.

First thing I do is go into CPU features and disable EVERYTHING (leave multiplier at x9) on that page. I do it first because I forgot if I don't. Leave that page, go to "Jumperless Settings" option at that page, and go into FSB options.

It'll be locked, but change the option to "manual" .... older BIOSs had that option, I can't remember if mine did. Make sure it is set to "LINKED" on the next option. The next option should be set as "SYNC."

For FSB, make sure 1066 is typed, and make sure your RAM is then at 533.

Leave that screen, and go into voltage options. Change it to manual, change vCore to 1.325v, change vDimm to 2.1v (just make sure it's 2.1 -- the last digits make it to something along the lines of 2.109, but it's too early for me to remember.







) Change NB voltage to 1.3v. (Again, it has two more digits at the end, I just don't remember them.)

After that, go back to main "OCing Page", and look for "Chipset options." 
Go in, look for LDT Frequency (or multiplier, forgot which this BIOS calls it) and change it from 5x to 4x. I've tested it at 5x and 1x, and I got no performance dip, but people say too high can cause instablity, and too low can cause instablity -- so I keep it at 3x when past 450FSB and x4 between 266 and 450. It just slows down how fast the NB "talks" to the SB.

Go into timings page, and if you know your timings, put them in. If not, usually 4-4-4-12 2T works on MOST RAM no problems -- and I assume you have DDR2-800.

In order, put these options in
1st one - 4
2nd one - 4
3rd one - 4
4th one - 12
5th one - 2 (T)

The others should say auto; just leave them there. I didn't full understand those timings until a good two weeks ago when I wanted to squeeze a little more seconds out of my Super Pi score...you don't need to know 'em.

Now back all the way out, go back to the profile screen, save it back on top of your 1st Profile. It's still stock in a sense -- all you did was input all the options yourself, and you took off the divider the 650i puts on your RAM when it uses auto options.

Save the profile, save your BIOS settings, restart. Your computer *should* shut off because you change CPU settings, and unlike mobo settings, the CPU can't stop "doing stuff" until it shuts down, "tells itself" not to, and then starts. It'll start up on its own too.

Boot into Windows if you want to, open CPU-Z, dance, etc.









To overclock....
Go back into BIOS.
Find the jumperless settings again.

Change FSB from 1066 to 1100. 
Save settings.
Reboot. 
(Notice how it doesn't shutoff.







)
Boot back into Windows, open CPU-Z.
Instead of 2394Mhz it was at 1066, it should say 2475Mhz.

I might be stepping on your toes as far as how much you know about OCing, but OCing is your FSB times your CPU's multiplier.

E6700's are x10.
E6600's are x9.
E6400's are x8.
E6300's are x7.

The BIOS uses the quad pumped rate (For Intel, the FSB may run at 200FSB, but effectivly, it's 800FSB.)

So, when you put an option in the BIOS, if you put in 1200 --

1200 / 4 = 300 {Divide because of quad rate}
300 x 9 = 2700 {The actual FSB multiplied by your particular processors multi}
2700Mhz = CPU Speed {Your CPU speed.}

See why we keep calculators by our rigs?








It's not entirely as simple as just raising FSB. If it raise it too much, it won't be stable. Usually from vCore, but you'll have to raise vDimm too.

RAM is linked OCing because your RAM is running on a 1:1 divider. 
If your at 1066 (stock settings), you're at 266FSB. (266x9 = stock.)
Your RAM is at 533Mhz. (266x2 -- RAM is double data rate....*DDR*)
If you change FSB to 1100, you're at 275FSB. (275x9 = clock speed.)
Your RAM is at 550Mhz. (275x2 = RAM speed.)

Lot of math, but it's not hard once you get it.

Just keep playing with the FSB until your computer either:
A) Doesn't boot.
B) Gets errors when in Windows.
C) Can't POST.

When that happens, do in order:
1) Raise NB voltage (1.3v -> 1.5v -- don't go to 1.7v unless you don't mind your mobo dying in ~2-3 years.)
2) Raise voltage. (1.325 can be changed up to 1.5v. Don't go past 1.5v on air -- it's just too much.)
3) Change vDimm to up to 2.4v from 2.1v. Don't go past 2.2v if you don't have DIRECT airflow over your RAM.

If you need more help, ask pawl, I'll be gone in an hour or so...


----------



## ignite

Just a question for people that own this board. Does anyone have a problem reaching the SATA links if you have a second video card in SLI (primarily an 8800 series card)? I heard a few reviews that state that a second card actually blocks 2-3 of the SATA connectors, which could prove to be a problem if one day I choose to go SLI on this. Right now, I'm down to either this card, or the Abit Fatal1ty. Tough decision, I hear good things about both









This isn't for extreme OC'ing either, just looking for moderate OC potential with either a E6600 or E6750, whichever I decide on buying next month.


----------



## The Pook

A second card fits between the SB and SATA ports. Nothing is in the way for the card to block.


----------



## ignite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


A second card fits between the SB and SATA ports. Nothing is in the way for the card to block.


Odd, this is one of the few reviews I read that it blocks (but I'm happy to know that it doesn't). "Buyers in this market aren't likely to own two high-end graphics cards, which is a good thing because the cooler on our 8800GTX blocks two SATA ports when the card is placed in the second slot." - from Tom's Hardware.


----------



## The Pook

Look on Google for pictures. The card is long, but fit fits between the SATA ports and SB.









Hell, if it did, just get those right angled SATA ports and squeeze it under. Shouldn't be a problem though.


----------



## ignite

Sounds good, thanks!

Now it's the tough decision of deciding between this or the Fatal1ty. Good thing I have a month until I'm building


----------



## Asce

Get this board, the Fatality one sucks for OC'ing. Plus you buy it for having Fatality slapped all over it.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Get this board, the Fatality one sucks for OC'ing. Plus you buy it for having Fatality slapped all over it.


He speaketh the thuth-eth!







I can't believe I just said that.


----------



## The Pook

Goober.

And I type a huge ass post and no one comments it. D: 
*cry*


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah, Pook, it's a big one









Nice job, no time to read it, late to work already








I'm sure he'll appreciate it!


----------



## The Pook

*cries*

Anywho, I'll catch ya'll on Monday.


----------



## Asce

Anyone know which topic has the OCN logo and all that in? Im thinking of getting the flame and etching it on my side panel. Would that be a first Dpwal


----------



## The Pook

http://www.overclock.net/off-topic/1...OCN+Flame+logo


----------



## Asce

Pook your a god send







I couldnt remember where i saw them


----------



## The Pook

On OCN I hope. <.<


----------



## Asce

Yeah but my memory is like a goldfish


----------



## Kai-

Anybody done a Vdroop mod on this board?

I've found this one http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=145955 but I'd like to know if anyone else has tried it before I start drawing on my mobo.


----------



## rivel

is the g.skill 2x2gb ddr2-800 ram usable w/ a p5n32-e sli plus?


----------



## ignite

A couple more questions. Anyone know if the P5N-E from Newegg has a heatsink on the southbridge now? It shows it in the picture, but no other site has a heatsink in their picture. And is it just me or does that heatsink get in the way of the 2nd PCI-E slot.










Also, I shouldn't have an issue using Crucial Ballistix's on this board should I? I checked the list of compatible stick, Crucial is there but not this exact serial number.


----------



## rsfkevski

Just as long as the RAM is rated starting at 1.8v you'll be fine. The MB defaults to 1.8v for RAM!

Or if you have some 1.8v ram laying around that you can stick in it until you can get into the Bios to turn it up a bit, then shut it down, put your Ballistics in, reboot, and you should be just fine.


----------



## ignite

I believe Ballstix rate at 2.1 or 2.2. So I can just throw in my old PC2700's to just up to voltage and it should be set?


----------



## Lude

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Yeah but my memory is like a goldfish


It poops a lot?


----------



## dpawl31

Kai - the vdroop post you linked to, that guy is OK with his P5N-E dying, WTH?
He's probably upset over his OC... maybe he should toss that rosewill PSU








I think a lot of people could benefit from a vdroop mod though









Rivel, you have the wrong thread









As far as the ram thing, 1.8v ram should post, even get in windows.
It just won't be stable till you up the voltage. I don't see a need to boot w/ 1.8v RAM.

Ignite, some say the SB HS looks shopped, and I agree.
Even if it was real - I just bought one 2 weeks ago for a friends build, and it was SB HS'less.








Yes, if that heatsink was really on there, it would block most 2nd GPUs. Too high for sure.

That's why I am getting this:


----------



## ignite

How would an older type P3 HSF work on that chip. I actually found a nice small stock Intel one that was sitting on a pretty old motherboard. I can either use just the heatsink, or HS and fan. I found a screenshot of the fan, I think it is 40-50mm, wondering if that would be a good fit. Only problem is figuring out how to attach it.

I believe this is it, but the one I have is intel - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150018


----------



## dpawl31

That will work for both chips too.
I have a fan on the NB HS, and just a fan on the SB.


----------



## ignite

Would an 80mm be to big to mod onto the NB, or just stick to the smaller 40-50mm? I would consider just throwing some AS5 and a heatsink and the SB, and the fan on top of the NB.

The wait for 7/22 is sooooo long.


----------



## mastabog

Hello all,

I just purchased this mobo along with an E4300 (batch L651B680) and 2GB of Kingston DDR2667 with Elpida E5108AGBG-6E-E chips.

CPU has a Scythe Ninja Plus Rev B.
I replaced the NB hsf with an HR-05.
I added 2 chrome plated copper heatspreaders on the RAM sticks.
Added Thermaltake CL-C0025 copper ram heatsinks on the MOSFETs

I spent most of the day yesterday playing with it and oc'ing. I'm running pretty stable at 390 FSB x8 multiplier, 1.4 vcore, 1.56 vnb, 2.08 vdimm and 910MHz 4-4-4-12 at 2.08 vdimm (yeah, those Elpida chips surprised me too, especially since i paid 38 pounds for the sticks). Bios is 0401.

However, that's about the highest I could get stable. It looks like I can't get over 3.16 GHz on this CPU no matter what I try. I tried x9 multiplier and lower FSB, no luck. Any FSB above 390-395 will not even post and any combination of FSB and multiplier resulting in a freq above 3.16 GHz will not post either.

I followed many guied and tips for this mobo (including the one at anandtech), tried raising the voltages (reached max voltages), lowered dimm timings, etc. The above two limitations seem to be omnipresent no matter what I do.

If anyone thinks I'm missing something, please let me know. If not, is the above 395 FSB limitation be caused by the mobo or the cpu? The 3.16 GHz one is clearly the CPU I believe.

Anyhow, 3.12 GHz is fine by me on this CPU but I would have liked to use a higher FSB.

Cheers

p.s. I am for now testing this mobo and will have a chance of getting a P5K instead (not deluxe or -e, the bare p5k). Anyone knows how the P5K compares to the P5N-E in terms of stability at high overclocks?


----------



## Christiaan

Hey mastabog. Could you please fill in your system specs under User CP, Add System.









I have a confession. I took the easy route and put the 4 extra RAMsinks I had on my SB.







I shall take any punishment Pook and pawl see fit for me.









Atleast I'm ready for that second 7600GT now.







Something I saw, which I did not predict. I'll only have one open PCI slot.







I already have a TV card in one. So if I get a sound card, bye bye TV card. :'(

PS. The RAM sinks don't look bad, they are a bit skew, but who's looking anyway?


----------



## RaiDer

Try Auto on the Vcore, and set the Vcore Offset to +100mv. Go at the CPU first then clock the ram up.


----------



## dpawl31

*Ignite*- I have a 60mm and it's about as wide as the heatsink. 80mm probably too big.
Don't try and spot cool it from a distance. Most 80mm are so low CFM... the airflow would get lost in the cross section of the case, well, at least it would in my windtunnel. lol.
Stick to 30/40/60 that you can fit RIGHT on the heatsink, as to get the airflow going right to it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mastabog* 
Hello all,

I just purchased this mobo along with an E4300 (batch L651B680) and 2GB of Kingston DDR2667 with Elpida E5108AGBG-6E-E chips.

CPU has a Scythe Ninja Plus Rev B.
I replaced the NB hsf with an HR-05.
I added 2 chrome plated copper heatspreaders on the RAM sticks.
Added Thermaltake CL-C0025 copper ram heatsinks on the MOSFETs

I spent most of the day yesterday playing with it and oc'ing. I'm running pretty stable at 390 FSB x8 multiplier, 1.4 vcore, 1.56 vnb, 2.08 vdimm and 910MHz 4-4-4-12 at 2.08 vdimm (yeah, those Elpida chips surprised me too, especially since i paid 38 pounds for the sticks). Bios is 0401.

However, that's about the highest I could get stable. It looks like I can't get over 3.16 GHz on this CPU no matter what I try. I tried x9 multiplier and lower FSB, no luck. Any FSB above 390-395 will not even post and any combination of FSB and multiplier resulting in a freq above 3.16 GHz will not post either.

I followed many guied and tips for this mobo (including the one at anandtech), tried raising the voltages (reached max voltages), lowered dimm timings, etc. The above two limitations seem to be omnipresent no matter what I do.

If anyone thinks I'm missing something, please let me know. If not, is the above 395 FSB limitation be caused by the mobo or the cpu? The 3.16 GHz one is clearly the CPU I believe.

Anyhow, 3.12 GHz is fine by me on this CPU but I would have liked to use a higher FSB.

Cheers

p.s. I am for now testing this mobo and will have a chance of getting a P5K instead (not deluxe or -e, the bare p5k). Anyone knows how the P5K compares to the P5N-E in terms of stability at high overclocks?


OK- first off, did you set your RAM timings/vdimm manually?
Second- what BIOS are you on?
OK now, I believe the stock multi (9x) is your safest bet.
Start from stock at the 9x. Remember, the 4300 is the lowest C2D, don't expect it to do 4Ghz. I know a lot of people have tried volt modding etc (madmax) to get it over 4Ghz. I am not sure at what point he had to do that, I don't even know what a NORMAL acceptable OC for a 4300 is.
I know they have trouble with higher FSB, so stick with the 9x.
The other main thing I noticed: why are you running 390 FSB and 910RAM?
Stability for Intel = 1:1. ie 390 FSB, you should run your RAM @ 390. (ie DDR2-780)
Remember, our BIOS displays effective values, so for 390 1:1 you'd need 1560 FSB and 780 RAM. But- remember the 4300 doesn't like higher FSB (from what I've heard) So maybe try 9x multi and lower FSB, with manual timings/vdimm and 1:1.
Start with 350FSB x9 = 3.15Ghz (DDR2-700 in BIOS, FSB = 1400)
I think you should be rock solid stable with that - as long as your timings and vdimm are good to go!
Also note- SYNC mode is 1:1, or you can just use full manual and type them in yourself (which I prefer)
Oh, and have vcore set to, I'd say 1.4v, but I could be wrong (I don't have a C2D!) But I think 1.4v is safe for you, and should allow you to hit 350x9 easy.
And remember, you have a northbridge voltage (MCP) you can adjust. 1.3xx and 1.5xx are good, 1.7xx is probably not neccessary with a 4300, if it's really neccessary at all (hah... Pook...







)
Oh, and add your system specs, and welcome to OCN & the P5N-E Club!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Hey mastabog. Could you please fill in your system specs under User CP, Add System.









I have a confession. I took the easy route and put the 4 extra RAMsinks I had on my SB.







I shall take any punishment Pook and pawl see fit for me.









Atleast I'm ready for that second 7600GT now.







Something I saw, which I did not predict. I'll only have one open PCI slot.







I already have a TV card in one. So if I get a sound card, bye bye TV card. :'(

PS. The RAM sinks don't look bad, they are a bit skew, but who's looking anyway?









RAMSinks, nice. SLI 7600 before me? I hate you







lol.
Are your 7600's huge, because mine aren't. lol. I can't believe you lose those slots... ?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ignite* 
How would an older type P3 HSF work on that chip. I actually found a nice small stock Intel one that was sitting on a pretty old motherboard. I can either use just the heatsink, or HS and fan. I found a screenshot of the fan, I think it is 40-50mm, wondering if that would be a good fit. Only problem is figuring out how to attach it.

I believe this is it, but the one I have is intel - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835150018










That looks like a 30~40mm, not 40~50









Double post FTW! hah.


----------



## Delphi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
*Ignite*- I have a 60mm and it's about as wide as the heatsink. 80mm probably too big.
Don't try and spot cool it from a distance. Most 80mm are so low CFM... the airflow would get lost in the cross section of the case, well, at least it would in my windtunnel. lol.
Stick to 30/40/60 that you can fit RIGHT on the heatsink, as to get the airflow going right to it.

OK- first off, did you set your RAM timings/vdimm manually?
Second- what BIOS are you on?
OK now, I believe the stock multi (9x) is your safest bet.
Start from stock at the 9x. Remember, the 4300 is the lowest C2D, don't expect it to do 4Ghz. I know a lot of people have tried volt modding etc (madmax) to get it over 4Ghz. I am not sure at what point he had to do that, I don't even know what a NORMAL acceptable OC for a 4300 is.
I know they have trouble with higher FSB, so stick with the 9x.
The other main thing I noticed: why are you running 390 FSB and 910RAM?
Stability for Intel = 1:1. ie 390 FSB, you should run your RAM @ 390. (ie DDR2-780)
Remember, our BIOS displays effective values, so for 390 1:1 you'd need 1560 FSB and 780 RAM. But- remember the 4300 doesn't like higher FSB (from what I've heard) So maybe try 9x multi and lower FSB, with manual timings/vdimm and 1:1.
Start with 350FSB x9 = 3.15Ghz (DDR2-700 in BIOS, FSB = 1400)
I think you should be rock solid stable with that - as long as your timings and vdimm are good to go!
Also note- SYNC mode is 1:1, or you can just use full manual and type them in yourself (which I prefer)
Oh, and have vcore set to, I'd say 1.4v, but I could be wrong (I don't have a C2D!) But I think 1.4v is safe for you, and should allow you to hit 350x9 easy.
And remember, you have a northbridge voltage (MCP) you can adjust. 1.3xx and 1.5xx are good, 1.7xx is probably not neccessary with a 4300, if it's really neccessary at all (hah... Pook...







)
Oh, and add your system specs, and welcome to OCN & the P5N-E Club!









RAMSinks, nice. SLI 7600 before me? I hate you







lol.
Are your 7600's huge, because mine aren't. lol. I can't believe you lose those slots... ?

The e4300 are pretty good overclockers from what i have seen myself. Mine has hit 2.7ghz stable at 1.3 volts. So 3.15ghz wont be to hard (havent triend becuase im on stock cooling atm) i dont think 1.4 v will be need. But it would help if he gave us the week of his cpu to give him an estimate.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
RAMSinks, nice. SLI 7600 before me? I hate you







lol.
Are your 7600's huge, because mine aren't. lol. I can't believe you lose those slots... ?

Don't be hating.









The Zalman VF900 takes up one slot next door. So I lose the PCI slot next to the second PCI-E slot. Maybe if I kept stock cooling it wouldn't, but I already ordered a Zalman VF900. >_> Wanna overclock too, so yeah.









Hopefully I get it Tuesday!








Already scoring 3800+- in 3DMark06, hoping to hit atleast 7000.







I'm sure my score won't just double up, but I should be able to manage 7000?









Also hoping the Antec TriCools aid in cooling my CPU. Wanna overclock more. Otherwise, moving to C2D when the prices drop.







That will be my very last upgrade for sometime then. Cause I just dumped a lot into this rig in the last month or so. The P5N-E SLi, the OCZ PSU, and the things I'm waiting for now.

Of course the 805 will be donated to my folding rig. Haha.


----------



## DonNiger

Is here anybody who has been trying to clock his P4. I was just testing the new cooling system and therefore mounted my old P4 640 (3,2Ghz). Before last night, my rec was 3,9 with that one.
During last night a lot of weard things happened. There is no problem to load at 4.2Ghz. But then .... Between 4,3 and 4,7 Ghz there is no response. It just does not do anything or beeps. But there is 50-50 option to load @ 4.8 Ghz. But have not been still able to make the screenshot because just after the win start I see blue screen. And the codes are: faulty IDE device, network adapter etc. Noone of them is related to mem or CPU. 
Sadly, that CPU does not take more then 1,58v. It just does not do anything with higher volts.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=208710

Thats the clock when the rig is benchable.


----------



## Farmerjoe

It seems I'm having a new problem now. When I run Orthos blend stress test I get the classic "Rounding was 0.5, expected to be less than 0.4". I haven't got that one with my new system before







Any idea to what could be causing it? It's a problem with the RAM right, but I'm pretty sure I haven't done anything to it since I last ran the test and got no errors. They're running 750MHz with 4-4-4-12-2T with the voltage around 2V :/

Also, it seems I'm stuck at my 3.375GHz. Load temp (stressed with gromacs core) is around 60ºC, and I won't go any higher, so I'm trying to tweak the voltage. Right now it's getting 1.4V in BIOS with +100mV on, meaning 1.5V (which is what everest and pcprobe reads), and I think that's pretty high for less than 3.4GHz. If I take the +100mV off it can't get past the POST screen, so I tried upping the voltage from 1.4V (keeping the +100mV setting on auto) to 1.41, 1.42, 1.43 and so on up to like 1.48V but it's not stable at all no matter what I do







Perhaps I should try to go below 1.4V in BIOS but having the +100mV on. Perhaps this chip is just really voltage hungry


----------



## dpawl31

Farmer- try AUTO vdimm.








It worked for me.
And yes, it seems vdroop is what's causing your instability. 
Use lower vcore and +100mv, now that pook ~prooved~ it does help.









Don- that's an awesome stable clock for that P4









Christiaan, I knew you had to have something else, because my 7600GT doesn't block anything but it's own slot.


----------



## Christiaan

Hehe dpawl.









So, I tried my RAM once more. Tightened the timings. I used PC Wizard 2007 to bench. The stable (memtest passed), "fastest" settings I got was 4:4:4:1:1T at stock voltage at 350MHz.

The 4th setting, the Tras, was kinda odd, stock it's on 12. Is it fine to have it so low?

PS. Don't give me the 1:1 FSB:RAM lecture. I can't get it 1:1.







Slowest I can get the RAM is 200. And my FSB is only 175. lol

Oh also, do you think the 2x1GB kit of the same RAM will be able to manage the same settings. Not sure if module size plays a part.


----------



## Farmerjoe

So... It seems I fixed my RAM problem by loosening the timings (and overclocking them some to make up for it).

My CPU is still ****ed up though :/ I tried to get below 1.4V in BIOS with the +100mV on, but I can't get it stable. It's back to 1.4v with the +100mV on since that's the only settings it's stable with







.
I was thinking about getting water cooling some time ago, but perhaps it's not really a good idea since it's already at freaking 1.5V at 3.375GHz, so even though I would get lower temps I probably wouldn't be able to get a much higher stable overclock?
I guess the L707A I got is not good


----------



## The Pook

L6's are the way to go.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hehe dpawl.









PS. Don't give me the 1:1 FSB:RAM lecture. I can't get it 1:1.







Slowest I can get the RAM is 200. And my FSB is only 175. lol

Oh also, do you think the 2x1GB kit of the same RAM will be able to manage the same settings. Not sure if module size plays a part.


Sry, but I can not get your point. Yoy are trying to run mem 1:1 to FSB? And your SB is only 175 Mhz. Sorry, but most of mem modules are not able to run as low as it is (350 Mhz DDRII)


----------



## Christiaan

No. dpawl always tells me to run 1:1. I said, I can't run it 1:1, because my FSB is only 175. At the moment I'm running it 1:2. My FSB is 175 and my RAM 350.


----------



## DonNiger

Understood, in 1:1 option, you should have your mem @ 700 Mhz. I had the same mem (Corsair PC5400 C4) and it did not worked on that MB at all. Before, mine modules made @950 Mhz but with P5N, oonly 750. But, you should anyway be able to have it working. Change your timins to [email protected] (4-4-7-14) and rise the volt to 2.2 (or something like that). Ofcourse, do it only if needed.


----------



## The Pook

175FSB with 1:1 = DDR2-350.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
Understood, in 1:1 option, you should have your mem @ 700 Mhz. I had the same mem (Corsair PC5400 C4) and it did not worked on that MB at all. Before, mine modules made @950 Mhz but with P5N, oonly 750. But, you should anyway be able to have it working. Change your timins to [email protected] (4-4-7-14) and rise the volt to 2.2 (or something like that). Ofcourse, do it only if needed.

Yeah I see what you saying man, but I have a Pentium D 805.







Stock FSB is 133 (533), to get my RAM at 350 (700) I'd need a 350 FSB (1400) which will equal to my CPU running at 28GHz?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Yeah I see what you saying man, but I have a Pentium D 805.







Stock FSB is 133 (533), to get my RAM at 350 (700) I'd need a 350 FSB (1400) which will equal to my CPU running at 28GHz?









7Ghz.
CPU Speed = FSB x Multi
350x20 = 7000


----------



## Christiaan

Oh my. Sorry Pook. I don't know what calculation I made! LOL
Thanks for the correction.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Oh my. Sorry Pook. I don't know what calculation I made! LOL
Thanks for the correction.










Added a few 0's...and 1s...and 2's....and 5s...and whatever else you threw in.


----------



## Christiaan

I took 1400FSB times 20. LOL Sorry.


----------



## DonNiger

OK, it is just, how you write it down.

I made some test some time ago: myby it will be easier to understand the difference between 1:1 and sync options. Just compare the pictures.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
I am trying to prove what I said before. Bios version 0401 is in use.
Look at the screen by yourselves.
First: mem is set to *SYNC* Bus speed is set to 410 Mhz, rated FSB is 1640 Mhz. Mem speed is 820 Mhz (DDR410) So, it is running 1:1 with *Bus speed* not to FSB.


Second: mem is set to *1:1*. Bus speed is set to 266,7, rated FSB is 1066,6. Mem speed is 1066,6 Mhz (DDR533,3 Mhz). It is running 1:1 with *Rated FSB* not to bus speed.


I think that I have proved that the bios options Sync and 1:1 are not the same.
For those, who are trying to have that 1:1 bios setting running and as I told before, should have a PC8500 at least or overclock your mem to that speed. Mine def is PC7200, but they are equiped with Microns and 2,4 volts is in use. (That 1066 timings are in loose, have not tried to max thouse yet, 1150Mhz had 5-4-4-9-2T timings)


----------



## Christiaan

Yeah. Mine goes like this. At my 175 FSB. 1:1 option runs my RAM at 350. And Sync 425... Weird.


----------



## The Pook

Bus speed is nothing but effective FSB.

DDR-410, btw, is running at 410Mhz. When RAM is listed as DDR2-800, it means it can run 800Mhz. As in, 1:1 with 400FSB.


----------



## DonNiger

OK, let you two to debate about that.

Meanwhile I have finisged my benching marathone. The final result is: 4.46 Ghz :http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=208881

And it was benchable:


P.S. Have you seen an uglier rig than mine?


----------



## Christiaan

Me and Pook are on the level. I think we confused by you. lol

And, um... would you be hurt if I said yeah that's a ugly rig?

A plus point, it looks like it can make coffee?


----------



## DonNiger

No coffee but it can make the water to go under zero. Actually untill ~-15c

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Me and Pook are on the level. I think we confused by you. lol

And, um... would you be hurt if I said yeah that's a ugly rig?

A plus point, it looks like it can make coffee?


----------



## Christiaan

Oh cool. Ice tea then?









Nice overclock by the way.

How about your C2D?


----------



## Farmerjoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe* 
So... It seems I fixed my RAM problem by loosening the timings (and overclocking them some to make up for it).

My CPU is still ****ed up though :/ I tried to get below 1.4V in BIOS with the +100mV on, but I can't get it stable. It's back to 1.4v with the +100mV on since that's the only settings it's stable with







.
I was thinking about getting water cooling some time ago, but perhaps it's not really a good idea since it's already at freaking 1.5V at 3.375GHz, so even though I would get lower temps I probably wouldn't be able to get a much higher stable overclock?
I guess the L707A I got is not good









Any comments / ideas to what I should do







?


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Oh cool. Ice tea then?









Nice overclock by the way.

How about your C2D?

It will be the last one, I'll bench. I have one presler and a celeron for benching.

I have not recieved my 1 KW PSU yet, serious work will start after the arrival. I will try to bench moded [email protected] That 560w TT is too weak for that.


----------



## The Pook

I wanna buy a Celeroe to play around on, but I don't have $50 to throw away. D:

I would build a cheap HTPC around it afterwards as well, to replace this P3 -- but then again, I'm never on this P3 much either. Just when my main rig goes out.


----------



## Christiaan

I'm curious about something.

Is it possible to mix my Corsair XMS2 2x512MB with Corsair XMS2 2x1GB?
Would be nice, then I have 3GB RAM.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I'm curious about something.

Is it possible to mix my Corsair XMS2 2x512MB with Corsair XMS2 2x1GB?
Would be nice, then I have 3GB RAM.










Aboslutely, just make sure that one set is on Mem Channel 1 and one set is on Channel 2


----------



## Christiaan

Awesome. I'll keep my 2x512MB in the black slots and just pop in the 2x1GB modules in the yellow slots.







Should be here tomorrow!

So there is no disadvantage to having them mixed like that?


----------



## Nevaziah

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Awesome. I'll keep my 2x512MB in the black slots and just pop in the 2x1GB modules in the yellow slots.







Should be here tomorrow!

So there is no disadvantage to having them mixed like that?

The 1GB sticks might force you to have "slightly" higher timings if you overclock. 512 sticks tend to hit the low timings easier (3-3-3-9), even at high frequencies (667-800). but if you should be able to hit 4-4-4-12 just fine at 800.

Other than that, it's all good.


----------



## Christiaan

Excellent. Thanks.
I'll see what timings I can pull off.


----------



## DonNiger

I think that in the manual, there was written that Dimm A and Dimm B should have the same amount of mem. So you should mix 512 with 1 Gb.


----------



## The Pook

Ack.
I *had* it at 500FSB. 
But. I dumped my CPU-Z file.
I restarted to go back to 1860FSB, went to upload it, and it says:

Quote:



probleme de taille fichier


...and if my French is any good from 6th grade, that says a file size problem.









I right clicked on my cfg file and it says 0 bytes.








Oh well. Guess I redo it again later and get a mspaint shot.
It wasn't stable at all, though. D:


----------



## Christiaan

Ah yes. Just looked it up. Thanks for the heads up.









So it'll be something like this. Black slot 1 - 512MB, Black slot 2 - 1024MB, Yellow slot 1 - 512MB, Yellow slot 2, 1024MB. ^^

*edit* I got the same error Pook.


----------



## The Pook

Is yours at 0 bytes too? D:


----------



## Christiaan

Yup... weird. :/


----------



## The Pook

*cries*

Oh well. My ram kicks ass. 
DDR2-1200 (as far as I tested) with only 2.3v.








5-5-5-15, but like I said, I just set it and booted. No tweaking. 
Sure it would've done CL4.


----------



## The Pook

4th of July is still a while away, but here are some things to do on the fourth.









1) Put pencil in mobo headers on the mobo...and have it touch the power pins and the two near it. 6-8 inch sparks. Yellow and orange.

2) Put multimeter ground on metal on your case. Put other connecting the two legs on the FR for CPU voltage reading. 2-3 inch high spark, yellow and white in color.

3) Same as above, but do for chipset. Comes out same height, yellow and white.

4) Same as above, but do for vDimm. Comes out same height, yellow and white.

5) Put your finger on the two side-by-side resistors between the CPU header and the top right most push-pin mounter for a bracket. ~1 inch in height, yellow in color, feel the spark as well.









6) One of the more safe ones, plug up cold cathodes to your HDD activity headers on the mobo.









7) The best one: stick both the black and red "probes" on your multimeter into the same RAM slot. ~5ft high sparks, blue and white in color. You *will* kill your board, so do it on an old one.

I've done all of them on the P5N-E 'cept the 7th...all by accident.








The last one I obviously did on purpose...but to an older HP board.


----------



## dpawl31

No wonder your FSB is limited









haha.
I would def not recommend any of those. lol.
Christ









Get some real fireworks ya wierdo!

Buy 1 Get 1 @ Atlas fireworks







Hooray for me!
Probably drop a good hundred fitty on them this year... $300 in pyro, w00t!


----------



## The Pook

I honestly don't think I'm limited.
Something is holding me back, but I dunno what.

My max bootable FSB went to 500FSB just with a change in RAM.








Change SATA cables and I'll probably gain 2.









Plus, between 1860 and 1950 I can run Orthos...but at EXACTLY 20 minutes and 11 seconds, it crashes back to POST. No errors or anything. D:


----------



## dpawl31

Wow... well at least you are gaining strides, that's good.
Maybe your system is begging for a GTX... I bet that's it.
Whine whine whine till it gets DX10... WHAM! 515FSB. lol.


----------



## The Pook

Got $400?


----------



## Kopi

wait, is that how you're supposed to run the ram?

I would have thought it would have been the 1gb sticks in dual channel (black) and the 512mb sticks in dual channel (yellow) not mix n match?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
wait, is that how you're supposed to run the ram?

I would have thought it would have been the 1gb sticks in dual channel (black) and the 512mb sticks in dual channel (yellow) not mix n match?

I agree... Dual channel is 2x1GB in yellow, 2x512MB in black, or vice versa.

I'll check my book right now >.<


----------



## The Pook

Doesn't matter.
Dual channel is in same color slots.
Doesn't matter what order they are put in..smaller in first or smaller in second... it does the same thing.


----------



## Kopi

the way he planned on doing it was one of each stick in each colour...one 512 and one 1024 in yellow, and one of each in black


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
the way he planned on doing it was one of each stick in each colour...one 512 and one 1024 in yellow, and one of each in black

Right, that's what we were trying to point out Pook.

Dual channel = same color slots, not two 1GB side by side (1 black one yellow).
That's not dual channel, and a 1GB won't run dual with a 512! lol.

PS holy crap Kopis back! haha


----------



## Kopi

yeah man for a while you guys like completely lost me..but now i have something to say so i'll say it!

Its weird, i swear i have p5n-e sli thread sense. Every once in a while i get a "go to OCN now" feeling..i do, and this thread iis in the top 10 latest posts.

Creepy.


----------



## The Pook

...No.
It's called I told you to go to the thread through XFire.
Noober.


----------



## Kopi

mmhmmm...
you definitely didnt


----------



## The Pook

Lies.


----------



## dpawl31

Pook and Kopi on XFIRE? I'm in!








Uh, my XFIRE name is, uh, dpawl31. lol. 
<--- Super Original!


----------



## The Pook

Holy ****.
The "FSB Sync Override" option in BIOS pwns.

It dropped my Super Pi times by about 1.5 seconds and it let my RAM be stable at 1T for another ~.3 seconds off.







I didn't even see the option until I went to make sure CPU settings were all disabled.


----------



## Kopi

Havn't come accross it before but i'll definitely hit it up tomorrow


----------



## Kopi

Yeah i couldn't wait.

It does seem to work pretty solid, i didnt try the ram yet but so far i've dropped to about 16 seconds PI from my previous 17 at 3200mhz. Hopefully it pushes the FSB past 500 too?


----------



## Betrivent

Quick update:

I can stabilize at 3.4 Ghz with my board. Just to let you non-believers out there know that this board is indeed awesome.


----------



## dpawl31

Not too many non-believers around this thread








Nice OC


----------



## Betrivent

oh y'know, just letting people know who come in here who don't haev a fabulous board like us


----------



## abz

umm.. anyone believe this? its crazy! http://www.mitsimonsta.net/host/pricefk4.gif
if this is true.. im gonna wait for my e6600 and get a q6600 for the same price!


----------



## Kai-

That'd be in US dollars, not Australian dollars, so us poor suckers would have to pay more on that price. =[


----------



## abz

still - its sooo cheap for the quads


----------



## Christiaan

Quote from the manual:

For dual-channel configuration, the total size of memory module(s) installed per channel must be the same (DIMM_A1 + DIMM_A2 = DIMM_B1 + DIMM_B2)

That's why I said Black 1 - 512MB, black 2 - 1024MB... otherwise they won't be equal size. Black 1 + 2 = 1024MB Yellow 1 + 2 = 2048MB

Comments?

PS. Where is the courier???  I'm waiting for my RAM! :'(


----------



## b1gapl

I have a question on the ram speed during overclock. For example, I put the FSB to 1600 and the RAM sets to 800, but then I set the FSB to 1650, the RAM goes down to 773(in the gray area). Or sometimes when I try to up the RAM itself, it stays at 773, until I hit 825. But then the gray goes right to 825.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


I have a question on the ram speed during overclock. For example, I put the FSB to 1600 and the RAM sets to 800, but then I set the FSB to 1650, the RAM goes down to 773(in the gray area). Or sometimes when I try to up the RAM itself, it stays at 773, until I hit 825. But then the gray goes right to 825.


Are you running a divider? SYNC apparently is not always 1:1 from what I am hearing now... very strange...
Anyway - just do it manually, 1650/850


----------



## DonNiger

It depends on divider, its normal


----------



## Christiaan

Thanks dpawl. You were right. As usual.








Kept my 2 512MB sticks in black, put the 2 1GB sticks in yellow. And all is well. Actually better. My bandwidth is up by 10MB/s in the PC Wizard RAM benchmark.









I must say, the difference is night and day. BF2142 is so smooth I can't believe it. Now, for that 7600GT!







I hope it comes this week. They still getting together all the products before they send it.


----------



## The Pook

When you get it, you could give it to me, if you wanted.


----------



## Christiaan

Hmmm. I'll trade you if you give me a 8800Ultra in return. Deal? Didn't think so.


----------



## The Pook

Sure.


----------



## Christiaan

I changed my mind. I'll keep my 7600GT. Less heat to deal with.


----------



## The Pook

Liar.
The 8800Ultra is dead. Don't put out any heat.


----------



## dpawl31

Don't listen to anything Pook says...
His dirtbike is slow


----------



## Kopi

Pushed the rig a little farther today. Accomplished 485fsb on 1.5v nb, and 1.35v CPU. Thats not bad at all...SuperPI at 17.5. Its getting a little toasty in there though


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Don't listen to anything Pook says...
His dirtbike is slow


















You're slow. D:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Pushed the rig a little farther today. Accomplished 485fsb on 1.5v nb, and 1.35v CPU. Thats not bad at all...SuperPI at 17.5. Its getting a little toasty in there though




























Come on Kops -- I almost got a full second faster than you.


----------



## The Pook

Testing 3.2Ghz 1.28v.


----------



## Christiaan

Oh my word... you won't believe this. The Legend 7600GT has been discontinued. There goes my 7600GT in SLi...

I guess one can mix brands? But I don't want to... guess I'm going 8 series...


----------



## Asce

Pook is going to be happy then


----------



## Christiaan

Bah!









Is it worth it to use a 8800GTS 320MB in XP?


----------



## Asce

Yes as it still kicks ass over the 7*** series cards


----------



## Subby

got this board to go with my friends e6420 and Big typhoon and ddr2 800 and i was so impressed. I came over to help him overclock it and after doing some research I decided that we'de run a 400 fsb 1:1 for a total 3.2ghz. I thought, well, should we take baby steps up to 400fsb???.......Nah, so I just uped the cpu voltage to 1.35 with the .1v boost option thingy enabled also and put the qdr to 1600 and sure enough booted right up and have had ZERO stability issues. What a great board, I loved the bios. I also just built a machine for a friend with the ga-p3d-ds3r and that bios was the ugliest thing I ever seen! Trying to figure out how to get a 1:1 on that thing was a nightmare and I can't even see what the current ddr voltage is! On that build I tried the exact same thing (also a e6420 w/ big typhoon and ddr2 800) and sure enough it didn't even boot, uped all the voltages and still no luck. So I had to drop it down to 380 FSB for a total of 3.0ghz but it did run superpi 1m at 16 seconds.

Anyways I highly recommend the p5n-e sli 650i


----------



## Christiaan

Yup Subby, this board is awesome.









I took a refund on the 7600GT and Zalman. I'm gonna think about my options now for a bit. I'm thinking about getting a 8800GTS 320MB, provided I can sell my 7600GT. Might as well go all out hey.









8800GTS 640MB isn't a option at this time, cause it's a price increase of 25% over the 320MB version. 

Atleast then I can use DX10 whenever I decide to get Vista. Most likely next year sometime. And if I need some more performance. Just pop in a second 8800GTS, if they don't discontinue that as well. Going to buy Legend once again. I have had no issues with this brand. I am extremely happy with my 7600GT and it's overclocking capability. Just this discontinued bit that annoyed me.

It's expected I guess. They moved on to the 8 series.









Any of you guys know Legend? What I know is, it's a Australian company. And all their products are cheaper here in SA than any of the other brands. Not by much, but enough to make me want to buy Legend products.









*edit*

Just saw some interesting things about Legend here.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Pook is going to be happy then











Why?

Unless he gives it to me, that is.


----------



## Betrivent

Since 231 pages is far too many to skim through.. I'm going to ask a quick question. What's the safest NB voltage for the stock heatsink?


----------



## dpawl31

Really depends on two things:
1) Have you reseated it with AS5?
2) Case airflow.

1.5xx is safe as long as cooling is good.
1.7xx is ok, it will take a year or two off your board if you run it 24/7.
But who uses a motherboard for 10+ years anyway?









My advice is- use what is necessary.
Pook knows a bit more about using 1.7xx volts.


----------



## The Pook

<45C = 1.7xxv = safe.
>45C = 1.7xxv = not safe.


----------



## MotoGeek

Uhh read through a few posts in here but...I just tried to jump my CMOS and now I dont get video, did I fry my board?

Turned off the PC, unpluged it, pulled the jumper, PITA btw, replaced the jumper about 10 seconds later, then fired it up and now no video...


----------



## |talian $tallion

forgive me for not reading all 230 pages of this thread, but could someone please suggest the best settings for overclocking this board, not the FSB settings but all of the other settings that should be enabled/disabled

thanks


----------



## dpawl31

I've heard of that before...
I can't remember the normal cause though.
Just try CMOS clear again. Wait longer.

Turn off PSU, switch pins on jumper, remove battery.
The green light on the board will go out when power is drained.
Taking out the battery is not necessary- but I say to do it because it allows you something to do to take more time away, to make sure you allow enough time to clear out.
Some people say hit the power button to drain some extra juice in capacitors.
Not so sure it's needed/works... but worth a try


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *|talian $tallion* 
forgive me for not reading all 230 pages of this thread, but could someone please suggest the best settings for overclocking this board, not the FSB settings but all of the other settings that should be enabled/disabled

thanks

I thought you were selling your board?









Anyway... enable everything you need... disable everything you don't.
Anything you don't know what it is - leave it whatever it is, come here and ask









Pook has talked about the SYNC disable thing... haven't seen it- I am guessing it's only in the 6 series bios, Pook?


----------



## Betrivent

okay, is the 45 degress relative to my cpu or what everest says is my "motherboard" temperature?


----------



## dpawl31

Motherboard.
Pook has shown some







as to it really reading the NB/SB.
He says it's the mean (average) of NB+SB.
Makes a lot of sense, and I am ~100% sure he's right.
Others will tell you motherboard sensor is between PCI slots.
That just makes no sense to me anyway


----------



## MotoGeek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I've heard of that before...
I can't remember the normal cause though.
Just try CMOS clear again. Wait longer.

Turn off PSU, switch pins on jumper, remove battery.
The green light on the board will go out when power is drained.
Taking out the battery is not necessary- but I say to do it because it allows you something to do to take more time away, to make sure you allow enough time to clear out.
Some people say hit the power button to drain some extra juice in capacitors.
Not so sure it's needed/works... but worth a try









No luck...Would my board be messed up if I started it with the jumper in place?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MotoGeek* 
No luck...Would my board be messed up if I started it with the jumper in place?

As far as I know, no.
It may not fire up...
But it shouldn't hurt it. I could be wrong









I believe all it does is remove power (battery) and connect to a ground to release the power in the caps. Yet again - could be wrong.


----------



## Betrivent

that could mean anything.. so is it safe to assume that if my SB is room temperature, which is should be (say 20-25 degrees) then my NB would be something like 50 some-odd degrees? :S


----------



## MotoGeek

I noticed that when I turn off my PSU the light goes dead...I believe it always did that...I have never had a Bios post Beep either...Should the light always be on and the beep happen?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MotoGeek* 
I noticed that when I turn off my PSU the light goes dead...I believe it always did that...I have never had a Bios post Beep either...Should the light always be on and the beep happen?

The light should always be on so long as there is power. If you shut your PSU off yes the light should go dead. As for the beep, mine does a single beep before the post and thats it


----------



## dpawl31

I don't use a PC speaker, hate those things. haha.

My board light stays on till I set the jumper.
If it goes out- I think your CMOS battery is dead.


----------



## |talian $tallion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I thought you were selling your board?









Anyway... enable everything you need... disable everything you don't.
Anything you don't know what it is - leave it whatever it is, come here and ask









Pook has talked about the SYNC disable thing... haven't seen it- I am guessing it's only in the 6 series bios, Pook?

ya i decided to keep this board and sell my p5wdh


----------



## dpawl31

Sweet! hah.










_Theirrrrrr *GREAT!*_...

haha... sorry. (avatar...







)


----------



## The Pook

Leaving it as "clear" won't hurt it. It just won't save your BIOS settings.

Disable all CPU settings.
Turn LDT multi to 3x past 425FPS.
Turn LDT multi to 4x between 350-425.

Everything else is hardware-dependent.

Open up the PCI-E clocks if you need a little more breathing room for your video card...it isn't good to go past 105 though.


----------



## TheoJilderda

Hello all, can someone help me; I want to tweak my cpu. But i don't know how: O, I'm just a noob that needs some good information:$..

My spec:

Asus P5N-E SLI
E6420 2,1 Ghz
Chaintech Apogee DDR2-800 (3X 1 GB)


----------



## Wiljami

Hello.

I'm in need of some help. I have the following

P5n-e sli (doh







)
6600 L644F261 (I gues this is a bad clocker?)
2x1g Gskill 800mhz 5-5-5-15
ninja rev.B
500w seasonic s12

and the problem is I can't run orthos even at 3150mhz very long with out it failing. At 3375mhz it fails instantly. Vcore in cpu-z is 1,424.

Helps please!









PS.. Nice thread by the way!!


----------



## Christiaan

I'm sure Pook will be happy to explain the whole process to you. I'm too lazy to type it. My only suggestion till Pook comes back is to actually read the whole thread. I highly recommend it. You'll come out a lot more knowledgable on the other side.


----------



## Cluster One

Will I see a problem running 4x1gig sticks on my board?

Will I see any increase in performance by running my ram higher in unlinked?


----------



## Kopi

@ Cluster One
you might see some better scores, i think pook has tried that successfully.

@Wiljami
what are your northbridge volts?


----------



## Cluster One

I am considering upgrading because ddr2 is at its lowest price point most likely and will probably go up soon. I am trying to future proof myself for next gen games like crysis which might require more.


----------



## Kopi

You could go for it, you shouldn't have any problems at all


----------



## The Pook

Kops isn't welcome in this thread anymore. No P5N-E.


----------



## Cluster One

Pook its not possible?


----------



## MotoGeek

You guys ever seen this mobo obliterated by shotgun? Its about to happen...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cluster One*


Pook its not possible?


What?


----------



## Cluster One

Did you have problems running 4x1gig sticks?


----------



## dpawl31

*Wiljami*- I agree with Kopi, what is your NB set to?

*Cluster One*- 4GB will not be recognized unless your XP is 64Bit.
Vista will recognize all 4







Otherwise, XP32Bit will see 3/3.5GB. 
2GB should be fine until you get DX10 + Vista.

*Pook*- He was asking you about RAM because Kopi said you used 4GB.







Read back a few posts lol.

*Kopi*- Uh... seriously, what's this chit chat about no P5N-E?


----------



## The Pook

I never ran 4GB. 

Anywho.
Who said 7600GT's still ain't got it?


----------



## dpawl31

What is that...?

Dirt?

PS My bike is going to roll over 13337 miles tomorrow... LEEET!


----------



## The Pook

DiRT.

My XR500 is at 1111.0.
YZ don't got no counterz. D:


----------



## Cluster One

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
*Wiljami*- I agree with Kopi, what is your NB set to?

*Cluster One*- 4GB will not be recognized unless your XP is 64Bit.
Vista will recognize all 4







Otherwise, XP32Bit will see 3/3.5GB.
2GB should be fine until you get DX10 + Vista.

*Pook*- He was asking you about RAM because Kopi said you used 4GB.







Read back a few posts lol.

*Kopi*- Uh... seriously, what's this chit chat about no P5N-E?










Yes I know that of course, I was inquiring about timings, overclock ability limitations etc. A crucial engineer stated on anandtech forums that the 650i is 50/50 success failure rate due to capacitor quality and ratings.


----------



## The Pook

I'm confused.
What's your question?

My Crucial works perfect.


----------



## dpawl31

Is that a live-action shot? If so - amazing... I heard the gameplay was --->









7600GT FTW! haha. When you get the 8600GTS SLI (you punk!) I'll give you $70 shipped for you GT


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
I'm confused.
What's your question?

My Crucial works perfect.

I agree... what are you saying?

Also, what the heck is he relating a 50/50 something to?









*EDIT*
Double Post FTW! haha


----------



## The Pook

If I do get the cards, sure.
I'm not 100% sure if I'm getting them -- all depends on how they "feel."










If my VF700 fits on the 8600GTS's, I'm keeping that though.
<_< >_>
I don't think they do though.
*Googles*


----------



## Betrivent

Ahh google.. man's other best friend?


----------



## The Pook

Indeed.








And that friend says the VF700 works fine.


----------



## The Pook

OMG.
I found Kopi.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


*Wiljami*- I agree with Kopi, what is your NB set to?

*Cluster One*- 4GB will not be recognized unless your XP is 64Bit.
Vista will recognize all 4







Otherwise, XP32Bit will see 3/3.5GB. 
2GB should be fine until you get DX10 + Vista.

*Pook*- He was asking you about RAM because Kopi said you used 4GB.







Read back a few posts lol.

*Kopi*- Uh... seriously, what's this chit chat about no P5N-E?










I just changed my sig rig thing...got the opteron running and im pretty pumped so i thought i'd rep that for a bit. Keeping the p5n-e for sure..duuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I'm confused.
What's your question?

My Crucial works perfect.


BTW i wasn't saying you ran 4gb, i meant you ran better scores by running your ram faster than your FSB..correct? When you got it up to 1200 or whatever and FSB at xxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


OMG.
I found Kopi.






>_>


----------



## Betrivent

I think I died a little inside when I saw that video


----------



## dpawl31

That was my understanding kopi, just running the OPT.

I LOL'd @ Betrivent's comment


----------



## Cluster One

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I agree... what are you saying?

Also, what the heck is he relating a 50/50 something to? 









*EDIT*
Double Post FTW! haha


Im talking about running 4x1gig sticks still....


----------



## The Pook

Yes, it works.

It's listed in the manual.
Listed on Asus.


----------



## Asce

Well if there was a problem with running 4gb's, it would screw me loyally over for when i run Vista. And its 1 week before i can find out if i can get my rig up and running







And does anyone know the highest OC you can get on stock voltages as i plan to run the reference Intel HSF until i get my watercooliing setup.


----------



## Wiljami

Umm my NB volts are on auto! Is that it? 
I upped the vcore a little more and got it running but orthos still fails after about 15 sec.. Supreme Commander runs just fine tho?!? odd
I would like to take the vcore down cos me thinks it will be running quite hot. 55-57CÂ° under stress. I'm not running my comp 24/7

BTW Is there a reason why I can't run my e6600 with 8x multiplyer? I had understand that it was able to run with that allso.


----------



## Kopi

You can.

Set your northbridge volts to 1.5 and see if that fixes your instability.

Whats the Vcore and at what speed?


----------



## Wiljami

NB v at 1.5 now --> no help.
9x387,5mhz > 3487,5mhz @ 1,472 with CPU-Z
Im running SupCom whit these settings atm ok
How can I change the multi to x8.. I tryed it in the bios but it wont change it after I have saved it go back to bios its x9 again?

orthos error
_"Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999721944, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted."_


----------



## DonNiger

Change your bios to 0402. newer versions does not support that option somewhy. 
I sent a message to Asus about problems with bios v.505. They answered, that it will be fixed with the next version. But they did not.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wiljami*


NB v at 1.5 now --> no help.
9x387,5mhz > 3487,5mhz @ 1,472 with CPU-Z
Im running SupCom whit these settings atm ok
How can I change the multi to x8.. I tryed it in the bios but it wont change it after I have saved it go back to bios its x9 again?

orthos error
_"Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.4999721944, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 0 minutes 3 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted."_


----------



## Wiljami

Ok I have the 0602 bios atm.. Gotta change it back to 0402 if that helps







Thanks!

3622mhz! In windows but orthos still failing








idle 34-32C

EDIT..
where to find 0402.. Asus site only has 0401 in their download section.

EDIT2..
Ok I upped the vcore to 1,60-1,55 and I managed to run orthos for 55sec!! Wee... until it failed again. Sterss temps at 52-54C? Do I dear to give it more juice? I'm not doing anything before someone says something so I will not damage anything.


----------



## dpawl31

Too much vcore, really, for that overclock.
My guess is your chipset is too hot.

Do you have a southbridge heatsink? Did you reseat the northbridge with AS5?
In not, reseat it, and check the temp of both with your fingers.

Also - did you manually set RAM timings, and vdimm?
If not, do so.
If you did - try AUTO vdimm. Worked for me, very strange...









DonNiger also meant 0401, not 0402.
That's why I always say 04xx series... lol, because I always forget!

Also- please go to User CP and ADD SYSTEM.

And in regards to the multi- you should be fine with the 9x... ask pook, but generally the lower multi on a chip is a bit unstable to begin with (from what I've heard)


----------



## The Pook

That's more than enough juice.

Make sure NB volts are at 1.5xxv.
Make sure RAM is running OK -- in timings, speed, and volts.
Make sure LDT multi is at x3.
Make sure all CPU "features" are DISABLED.

If all of that is done, you might have a mobo that has a low FSB max, or just a chip that can run at that speed.


----------



## dpawl31

Pookers... I think my LDT is @ 5x stock?
Could that be the thing holding me back from higher OC?

(it takes me to 1.7v from 1.4v and I cant go ANY higher...)


----------



## Asce

Anyone getting the new 6*50 chips when they come out


----------



## Cluster One

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Yes, it works.

It's listed in the manual.
Listed on Asus.


Well thats fine and dandy but many users on other forums have had problems. A crucial engineer stated that the chance of running them and overclocking was 50/50 due to capacitor rating and quality.

This thread seems like more of a social hang out and than anything else


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Pookers... I think my LDT is @ 5x stock?
Could that be the thing holding me back from higher OC?

(it takes me to 1.7v from 1.4v and I cant go ANY higher...)


LDT multis are related to FSB.
You stay under 266, so 5x is where you should be.
Don't go down to 4x until 375FSB, and 3x until 425.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cluster One*


Well thats fine and dandy but many users on other forums have had problems. A crucial engineer stated that the chance of running them and overclocking was 50/50 due to capacitor rating and quality.

This thread seems like more of a social hang out and than anything else


It works fine. 
As I said.

Just because you don't get the answer you expected, it's not a "social hangout." Granted we stray off topic, but PLEASE say that at least HALF the people that came in hear got helped so I can laugh.

You're asking a Crucial rep about an Asus board.


----------



## Cluster One

I didnt expect a simple yes or no, that is all. I guess i shall find out.

as for the crucial engineer, he is far more educated in the matter than any of us so the fact that he works for a different outfit has nothing to do with it.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Ok guys, I Overclocked my processor to 3.2. Im getting some type of error a friend says its my RAM. MY Freq is 266.3 and my FSB DRAM is 4:3 , how do I change it, btw im not running a newer version of the bios


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cluster One* 
I didnt expect a simple yes or no, that is all. I guess i shall find out.

as for the crucial engineer, he is far more educated in the matter than any of us so the fact that he works for a different outfit has nothing to do with it.

If it was capacitor rating and specifications, it would either work or not.

The first boards that rolled off the lines and the ones that just rolled off have the same caps in place.

Only RAM that has problem with this board is certain OCZ, early Kingston, and a few Patriot sticks -- and that's just because their incompatible, not because it's 4GB.


----------



## dpawl31

Hah, Pook you said OCN RAM!
I think you meant OCZ









ClusterOne... I don't care WHAT the guy is telling you.
He's clearly barking you up the wrong tree.

4GB works, plain and simple. Just need XP64 or Vista to see it all.
Social hangout huh. Yeah, we have fun around here.
But there is not a SINGLE person that has asked for advice, and not received it.
Not *one.*
If you feel you are not getting the help here, then leave.
You would be the first, that's for sure. No need to get rude.
And Pook was simply stating, you are talking to a Crucial tech, about an Asus product.
How about talking to the Asus techs?









Mercy -
What bios ARE you running?
And where is this error from, Orthos? Is it a rounding error?


----------



## The Pook

I said OCZ.
Goober.


----------



## dpawl31

I _knew_ I should have quoted it...


----------



## _^MeRcY

nvm, I did exactly what PooK wrote and its better







~. I want to post my CPU - Z but i dont know how


----------



## The Pook




----------



## dpawl31

Mercy - Go to CPUZ's About page.
Click VALIDATION
Click SAVE VALIDATION FILE
Save it to desktop.
Then go here: http://valid.x86-secret.com/

Enter your name, email and submit your file.
Make sure public part is ticked.
Away you go =D


----------



## _^MeRcY

hey dpawl i get this error saying this :

http://img363.imageshack.us/my.php?image=errorct6.jpg


----------



## dpawl31

I really have no idea what's going on in that image


----------



## _^MeRcY

you have xfire dpawl, i gave you a invatation, I need to fix this error :|


----------



## dpawl31

I didn't get one, it's dpawl31 not just dpawl, which did you send it to?


----------



## _^MeRcY

sent you another invite as powerkenchi


----------



## Wiljami

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Too much vcore, really, for that overclock.
My guess is your chipset is too hot.

Do you have a southbridge heatsink? Did you reseat the northbridge with AS5?
In not, reseat it, and check the temp of both with your fingers.

Also - did you manually set RAM timings, and vdimm?
If not, do so.
If you did - try AUTO vdimm. Worked for me, very strange...









DonNiger also meant 0401, not 0402.
That's why I always say 04xx series... lol, because I always forget!

Also- please go to User CP and ADD SYSTEM.

And in regards to the multi- you should be fine with the 9x... ask pook, but generally the lower multi on a chip is a bit unstable to begin with (from what I've heard)

You might be on to something here!
I tryed both with my fingers and they were running pretty hot! I took all the OC down for now. I'll have to go buy some AS5 on monday and make a heat sink for the SB... I'll report back then!
Thanks guys


----------



## willhub

Hi, I have this mobo, but I can only max my E6600 out at 3.2ghz, I dunno if its the NB or something, but I have a 60mm fan I could try later, I;m using an OCZ Vindicator CPU Cooler too and its showing me as getting 54-55 degrees right now with Orthos running and side of case off









I tried increasing the PCI-E NB Frequency to 105, but that still dont work, I am not sure if my CPU has reached its limit or if I am overclocking wrong though


----------



## Kopi

More than likely its your northbrige voltage. Go into jumper free mode, voltage settings, and change the northbridge voltage to 1.5. That might do the trick. I'm not sure what the multi is on the 6600, is it 9? That would mean your ram is only slightly overclocked, so voltage there shouldn't be a problem. Dont mess with your PCI-e frequency, that can toast your GPU


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
More than likely its your northbrige voltage. Go into jumper free mode, voltage settings, and change the northbridge voltage to 1.5. That might do the trick. I'm not sure what the multi is on the 6600, is it 9? That would mean your ram is only slightly overclocked, so voltage there shouldn't be a problem. Dont mess with your PCI-e frequency, that can toast your GPU

Thanks for that, will try it later, was thinking about changing the NB frequency but was worried about even touching it.

Yea the E6600 has a Multi or 9, I have Ram and FSB unlinked so I can upp my ram nicely, gonna try 1066mhz on this ram later, awsome stuff







, I only got this new cpu/mobo/ram/cooler yesterday, worried about the temperatures.

Oh also, problem with CPU fan sensor, it keeps going from 0rpm - 1000 something and sometimes an error saying CPU Fan Fail or speed too slow but the fan is working, its only a 3 pin fan connection when the mobo has a 4pin so maybe thats why?


----------



## Kopi

The 4 pin on the mobo is just to allow some fans that have some soort of smart controlling thingy, you're fine. The motherboard just thinks that anything below 1000rpm (or a specific number not sure what) means the fan is failing, because it isn't expecting a 120mm fan in there, you get what I'm saying? Its like, OMG FAN DYING CAUSE ITS SLOW when really its just because its a 120mm fan that doesnt need high RPM so you're ok there.

On PC5300 ram, i can't see 1066mhz, but if you can that'd be wild! Good luck, great choiice on parts!


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
The 4 pin on the mobo is just to allow some fans that have some soort of smart controlling thingy, you're fine. The motherboard just thinks that anything below 1000rpm (or a specific number not sure what) means the fan is failing, because it isn't expecting a 120mm fan in there, you get what I'm saying? Its like, OMG FAN DYING CAUSE ITS SLOW when really its just because its a 120mm fan that doesnt need high RPM so you're ok there.

On PC5300 ram, i can't see 1066mhz, but if you can that'd be wild! Good luck, great choiice on parts!

Thanks







, I've seen on some customer reviews some people reaching 1066mhz with higher timing, but even 800 I'm happy









Yea but about the fan, I go into Bios, and I look, it constantly goes 0 - 1000, 0 to 1000 etc.. and with some software in XP, when it goes to 0, says the CPU fan failed when it really aint slowing down at all.


----------



## The Pook

My NB must run incredibly cool compared to everyone else.

With a 40mm fan with 2.5CFM, I very rarely see 40C, let alone over 40C. Usually around the high 20's in lower ambients and mid 30's in summer heat.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


My NB must run incredibly cool compared to everyone else.

With a 40mm fan with 2.5CFM, I very rarely see 40C, let alone over 40C. Usually around the high 20's in lower ambients and mid 30's in summer heat.










Yea my NB right now is around 44 degrees solid with no fan on it like, this is with my CPU at 100% for 2 hours 14 mins in orthos so far.


----------



## The Pook

Nice choice on RAM btw.

I would invest in the DDR2-800 version myself, though, but they are killer sticks of RAM. I have the Tracer versions (just Ballistix's with LEDs...they were cheaper at the time) and get binned with slightly different RAM chips.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Nice choice on RAM btw.

I would invest in the DDR2-800 version myself, though, but they are killer sticks of RAM. I have the Tracer versions (just Ballistix's with LEDs...they were cheaper at the time) and get binned with slightly different RAM chips.











I wish I got the tracer version coz I need more light in my case







, I dunno if the 800 version would actually be better? since mine are at 800mhz at 4-4-4-9 on stock voltage.


----------



## The Pook

Usually they are binned differently, but very broadly.

They might catagorize all the -18F's as DDR2-800 Tracers, -22F's as DDR2-1066 Tracers, -16F's as DDR2-800 Vanillas, -20F's as DDR2-1066 Vanillas, -12F for DDR2-533, etc etc.

The higher the number binning, usually the better they OC, but only in most conditions. -12F might like lower volts, so if you're looking for that, go for that. (Not saying they do, just an example.)

Each has different qualities, but they are not set in stone which usually OCs more.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Usually they are binned differently, but very broadly.

They might catagorize all the -18F's as DDR2-800 Tracers, -22F's as DDR2-1066 Tracers, -16F's as DDR2-800 Vanillas, -20F's as DDR2-1066 Vanillas, -12F for DDR2-533, etc etc.

The higher the number binning, usually the better they OC, but only in most conditions. -12F might like lower volts, so if you're looking for that, go for that. (Not saying they do, just an example.)

Each has different qualities, but they are not set in stone which usually OCs more.


Ah, well I'm kind of happy with the overclock I currently got, will it be safe for me to up them to 1066mhz and make the latencys higher just as long as I got voltage set manually? Or could it damage my ram or just possibly cause the PC to reset on boot in Windows?


----------



## The Pook

Rule of thumb is over 2.2v, you need to use some kind of cooling. (If your RAM is nude, you need heatspreaders + a fan, if you have heatspreaders, you just add a fan), but I put a fan on it at any voltage just because I can change the voltage freely without having to look for a fan every time I want to.

I had mine running 2.5v to try to do a suicide run on my RAM (first thing I do when I get parts) to see how high they'd go....still fine.

Granted, you should know you don't need to just crank volts -- just use as much as you need.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Rule of thumb is over 2.2v, you need to use some kind of cooling. (If your RAM is nude, you need heatspreaders + a fan, if you have heatspreaders, you just add a fan), but I put a fan on it at any voltage just because I can change the voltage freely without having to look for a fan every time I want to.

I had mine running 2.5v to try to do a suicide run on my RAM (first thing I do when I get parts) to see how high they'd go....still fine.

Granted, you should know you don't need to just crank volts -- just use as much as you need.










Mine has heatspreaders on:

http://www.legitreviews.com/images/r...x_PC4000_1.jpg < They are the exact same as mine.


----------



## The Pook

Just throw a fan on 'em if you go over 2.2v


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Just throw a fan on 'em if you go over 2.2v










I know it may sound stupid, but how would I secure a fan to the ram, I mean this OCZ Vindicator fan is in the way







, I even had to move the Ram into the black slots due to the fan been in the way


----------



## The Pook

It's pretty easy for me because I'm caseless, but if you have a case you just gotta be creative.

Easiest thing to do is connect a bunch of mobo stand offs in the mounting hole by the CPU fan header (about 6-8 stand offs screwed into each other) and screw the top left of the fan (80mm) into that. If you screw it in enough, it should be enough by itself.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*











It's pretty easy for me because I'm caseless, but if you have a case you just gotta be creative.

Easiest thing to do is connect a bunch of mobo stand offs in the mounting hole by the CPU fan header (about 6-8 stand offs screwed into each other) and screw the top left of the fan (80mm) into that. If you screw it in enough, it should be enough by itself.


I could put on in the drive bays blowing at the ram, but its gonna be loud :\\


----------



## Kopi

My P5N-e Thread sense kicked in and i clicked on OCN. Turns out P5N thread was in top 10..this happens all the time.

There are some cool little ram cooling kits for as little as 20

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202003


----------



## The Pook

But they're BLUEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.

I hate blue LEDs.
<_<


----------



## DonNiger

Testing [email protected],4 Ghz. It works. But the vdroop sucks totally. Even after the mod.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=210766


----------



## willhub

Hi, will it be ok for me to increase the NB voltage to 1.5? nothing bad will happen apart fromr esets right? if its too much?


----------



## Christiaan

If you have good case airflow, 1.5v will be fine. I do however recommend some sort of fan 40mm/80mm blowing on the NB just to be safe.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
If you have good case airflow, 1.5v will be fine. I do however recommend some sort of fan 40mm/80mm blowing on the NB just to be safe.









I have a 60mm fan blowing on the NB right now







, the temp says 42-42, yet yesterday it was saying 44 and the NB Heatsink was too hot to touch, now I take the fan off and the NB is not too hot at all :s.

I have the side of the case off too, I am just doing this to see if it will help with overclocking, just a test, after I will be returning to 3.2ghz.


----------



## Christiaan

I don't know why everyone has such high MB temps. Mine is 31 at the moment. And I don't think I've ever seen it over 34.

Must be my puny FSB speed. ^^

It probably also helps I'm on the minimum voltage for the NB which is 1.208v.


----------



## willhub

I'm worried now, I started getting hardware failure fatal error in Orthos at 3.2ghz, so went back to 2.4ghz and it was fine, went into bios, changed something, then monitor would not come on, reset CMOS and it loaded, changing anything in bios tho and had to turn off the computer and back on for it to work, I dunno whats happening, I am scared somethings broke







, I hope not


----------



## Christiaan

What settings are you changing?


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
What settings are you changing?

I just changed the fsb to 1420 for 3.2ghz and set it to unlinked, I dunno whats happening







, I hope its not RMA time.


----------



## Christiaan

Perhaps take the NB voltage up a notch? Except if the one after 1.5**v is 1.7**v. I can't remember.

Just try it, it won't do anything for a few minutes.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Perhaps take the NB voltage up a notch? Except if the one after 1.5**v is 1.7**v. I can't remember.

Just try it, it won't do anything for a few minutes.










I dont know what I done, but these problems started after altering the NB Voltage, I keep the CPU Voltage at auto, so at 3.2ghz its at 1.45V, if I manually set it to say 1.4V the pc will crash.

I'm so worried atm that I think I best leave it at 3.2ghz if it gets there stable again.

At auto voltage for the CPU the voltage always goines from 1.39--1.42-1.45 etc.. and back down, dunno why it needs to do that :s

**Edit**

Its at 2.99ghz now at 1330fsb, anything higher than 1330fsb and the screen wont come on after saving and exiting bios screen wont come back on, have to press reest or switch computer off and on.

**Edit**

Ok, it was a FSB hole or glitch or something, had to up it for 1500 then back down, so far orthos stable again at 3.2ghz, going to try 3.4Ghz next


----------



## Christiaan

lol, okay. Good, but set your voltage manually. Don't use auto on the CPU... ever.









Goodluck.

I can't wait for my E6420. Getting one with next months price cuts.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


lol, okay. Good, but set your voltage manually. Don't use auto on the CPU... ever.









Goodluck.

I can't wait for my E6420. Getting one with next months price cuts.










Why should I never use Auto on the CPU? Should I set it to (1.45V)


----------



## Christiaan

Because auto is auto.








Put it on 1.45v. Use Orthos to test stability. If it's not stable, up voltage a notch at a time till it is 10hours Orthos stable.


----------



## Farmerjoe

Seems like I've finally found a reasonable setup that's stable, although I'm not quite satisfied yet







. The CPU is at 3.2GHz now at 1.35V in BIOS (with +100mV on) and I'm running my RAM at 1000MHz with 5-5-5-15 ;/, I'll try to get some more juice out of them later, but the setup is 24hour orthos stable so I'm happy for now.
It loads at around 52ºC while stressed with gromacs core in orthos and 47ºC in a blend test (ambient is around 24-25ºC with an open window. I'll probably try to get it stable around 3.4GHz soon, but it will need some more voltage and I'm not happy with temperatures over 60ºC.. but I'll see how it goes


----------



## Kopi

I just got a little southbridge heatsink and some mosfet ramsinks, and an HR-05 SLI, should be OC time for kops.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Farmerjoe*


Seems like I've finally found a reasonable setup that's stable, although I'm not quite satisfied yet







. The CPU is at 3.2GHz now at 1.35V in BIOS (with +100mV on) and I'm running my RAM at 1000MHz with 5-5-5-15 ;/, I'll try to get some more juice out of them later, but the setup is 24hour orthos stable so I'm happy for now.
It loads at around 52ºC while stressed with gromacs core in orthos and 47ºC in a blend test (ambient is around 24-25ºC with an open window. I'll probably try to get it stable around 3.4GHz soon, but it will need some more voltage and I'm not happy with temperatures over 60ºC.. but I'll see how it goes










If +100mv is on does that mean the actual voltage is 1.45V for you?

I rekon with a better NB cooler, 3.4ghz will be stable for me at 1.55v with +100mv off, gonna get some quality 60mm fans and an 80mm fan for my ocz cvindicator so I have 2 on it.

With side of case on, 3.2ghz at 1.45v I am getting 57degrees atm in orthos, allthough its dropped to 52 but going back up.

I would be happy with over 60 degrees, but dont intel say the max is 60?


----------



## Farmerjoe

Everest, CPU-Z and asusprobe all read 1.41-1.42V, so I guess my board has a 0.03-0.04V drop. 
Thermal specification for conroes is 60.1ºC, and I guess that's the recommended maximum temperature, but I don't know. Almost everyone recommends between 55 and 60 as maximum load temp.


----------



## The Pook

Don't use software to read voltages.
They're not very accurate.
Get a multimeter and read it off that way.


----------



## Farmerjoe

I know pook, but my last multimeter readings gave some weird results and I made a spark because my hand wasn't steady enough to hold the + onto the right place all the time







.


----------



## The Pook

Works fine for me. >.>


----------



## Wiljami

Update on my progres:
Well I just could not live without a little OC so I'm running my comp ATM at 3.15Ghz with vcore 1,375 wich is odd because it was failing orthos at a higher voltage but with the same speed before?!? But now it's perfectly stable and CPU temps are 41-42C.. Both NB and SB are still quite hot but that will change soon...
Was I just giving it too much vcore so the NB and SB got too hot for orthos to be stable?!?
ooh and with orthos running vcore is down to 1,328


----------



## dpawl31

Auto vcore = bad. Will give it what it thinks is neccessary (too much)
Manually set vcore, if you need 1.45 set 1.35v +100mv (reduce vdroop)
I think 1.45v for 3.2ghz is a bit high, but I don't have a C2D so I am not sure.
(Insert Pook netburst joke here)
I'd say get it to 1.35+100mv and start backing it down till its not stable.
That'll reduce temps too.

Kops, GL OC'in! =D Beat Pook, please? =D


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wiljami* 
Update on my progres:
Well I just could not live without a little OC so I'm running my comp ATM at 3.15Ghz with vcore 1,375 wich is odd because it was failing orthos at a higher voltage but with the same speed before?!? But now it's perfectly stable and CPU temps are 41-42C.. Both NB and SB are still quite hot but that will change soon...
Was I just giving it too much vcore so the NB and SB got too hot for orthos to be stable?!?

vcore=CPU
Raising vcore won't overheat your NB/SB, only FSB and vMCH will do that.
Did you ever reseat your NB with AS5? Also - did you try a higher vMCH for those higher OC's?


----------



## Wiljami

I will go buy some AS5 tomorrow (monday) and reseat NB put a heat sink on SB.

vMCH? sorry?


----------



## dpawl31

vMCH = NB voltage.
Did you use it at all for those higher overclocks? (~3.6 etc)


----------



## Wiljami

Ohh yea I used 1.5v like you suggested


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Auto vcore = bad. Will give it what it thinks is neccessary (too much)
Manually set vcore, if you need 1.45 set 1.35v +100mv (reduce vdroop)
I think 1.45v for 3.2ghz is a bit high, but I don't have a C2D so I am not sure.
(Insert Pook netburst joke here)
I'd say get it to 1.35+100mv and start backing it down till its not stable.
That'll reduce temps too.

Kops, GL OC'in! =D Beat Pook, please? =D

If anyone with a E6300 @ 3.3Ghz beats 16.610s, they get huggles.


----------



## Asce

What type of huggles


----------



## Wiljami

Hi again guys!
I was just wondering is it worth it buying (and using) a aftermarket heat pipe on NB.

Does any one have any ideas for heat sinks? One shop near me is selling Noctua NC-U6 Dual-Heatpipe for 24.40€. Is it better than Thermalright HR-05-SLI wich they are selling for 22.40€. 
Is it worth buying heat sinks for both bridges.

Allso will they fit in with my NinjaB and 8800GTS 320mb?
Is there any other good stuff like AS5.. it's sold out on the local shop
Thanks again!


----------



## The Pook

Wewt wewt. 
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=211117


----------



## Christiaan

Oh Pook, you are so 1337. lol

Nice, 3.5GHz... dare I ask the voltage and load temps?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Oh Pook, you are so 1337. lol

Nice, 3.5GHz... dare I ask the voltage and load temps?


It's far from stable.







I can't even run Super Pi.

Board seems to have issues with certain FSB/voltage/timing settings.

IE:

500x7 - 1.5v CPU - 2.4v RAM - 4-3-3-4 Timings = Able to be verified.
500x7 - 1.55v CPU - 2.5v RAM - 5-5-5-15 Timings = Won't POST
500x7 - 1.5v CPU - 2.5v RAM - 5-5-5-15 Timings = BSOD on startup
500x7 - 1.5v CPU - 2.3v RAM - 5-5-5-15 Timings = BSOD on startup
500x7 - 1.5v CPU - 2.3v RAM - 4-4-4-12 Timings = Locks up after getting in Windows.

List goes on, just not sure if I hit the perfect "sweet spot" and this is it, or there are more variables. <_>

But, on my 965PT board, I only needed 1.4v on my CPU (1.388v actual) to get 3.6Ghz stable. Load was about 53-55C during the winter.


----------



## The Pook

I'm getting impatient Kopi. Chase me.


----------



## willhub

4-3-3-4-10 : o at 1000Mhz lol, stable? I got my Ballistix running at 950mhz 4-4-4-12, but my bank cycle is 29, dunno if I sdhould lower that.


----------



## Kopi

The reason you're a second ahead of me could be ram timings...i do 4-4-4-10 at those clocks.

Wait till I get my SB cooled and my mosfets, and my HR-05, then its on.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willhub*


4-3-3-4-10 : o at 1000Mhz lol, stable? I got my Ballistix running at 950mhz 4-4-4-12, but my bank cycle is 29, dunno if I sdhould lower that.


Yessir. 
The only thing not stable in that screenie is the mobo, which doesn't like past 470FSB, but it'll do up to 480 as long as you stay off folding.

My RAM does 4-3-3-4 up to probably at least DDR2-1050 before it wants more juice.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


The reason you're a second ahead of me could be ram timings...i do 4-4-4-10 at those clocks.

Wait till I get my SB cooled and my mosfets, and my HR-05, then its on.


My board is the "lightly modified" class and yours is going to be "Arca's Truck-ified" (No one but us will get that...lawls) and I'll still win.









Going from those timings from:
4-4-4-10-20-35-6-9-5 only shaved off about .25 seconds at the most. Gotta get more done than that.


----------



## willhub

I am beggening to think my motherboard is faulty because of some of these things:

When I change the multiplyer downwards and save and exit, it still stays at 9.
Sometiems when I change voltage or even when I tried to change the multiplyer once when I saved and exit, instead of the monitor just going off and then coming back on, the whole PC shut off for about 2 seconds and then powered back on.
Even at 3.2Ghz now I am getting fails in orthos and resets, I cant see it been the CPU.
Also other problems like cpu fan.

I have even been resettings and failing orthos at 3ghz, I'm at 3ghz now but not even trying orthos this time.

I dunno if I am overclocking wrong or what but at 3.4Ghz at 1.55v for the most part seemed stable and on CPU-Z the voltage is all over the place, if I manually set it to 1.45v, its still dipping down to 1.39-1.40-1.45-1.37-1.41, and I dont want to enable +100Mv because If I do that then its effectivly running at 1.55V by the looks of it.

I really dont know whats going on, but its very unusual.


----------



## The Pook

The multiplier change is flawed on newer releases of BIOS'. Downgrade if you want it again.

When you change CPU settings/options, it shuts off because CPU settings cannot be changed while the computer is running, unlike motherboard settings.

As for errors at 3Ghz, you're unstable. Easy as that. Gotta find out why.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


The multiplier change is flawed on newer releases of BIOS'. Downgrade if you want it again.

When you change CPU settings/options, it shuts off because CPU settings cannot be changed while the computer is running, unlike motherboard settings.

As for errors at 3Ghz, you're unstable. Easy as that. Gotta find out why.


What Bios version do you recommend me downgrade to? I am just worried I may have broke something, but right now been doing orthos for 52mins and its fine, it was in XP it was all going wrong :s


----------



## The Pook

040x


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


040x


Wont the 0505 update be needed in the future for those new CPU's?


----------



## The Pook

If you don't use those CPUs, then why do you need it?


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
If you don't use those CPUs, then why do you need it?









Is Ezflash ok for flaing the bios? Also what about the utlitity that comes with the mobo for flashing? I flashed my bios twice with that but everyone saying its dangerous.


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Another set of RAM you can add to the compatibility list is the Geil DDR2 800 Ultra series. Works flawlessly and OCs like crazy.


----------



## dpawl31

Thanks Sgt!
Added the RAM








I don't think I've seen you in here before.









I checked your rig, saw your vcore lol.
I am guessing two things: Your actual vcore is probably lower;
and your PSU is probably the cause. Allthough I don't know much about Xion,
I don't believe they are a solid PSU, I could be wrong.
They could be made by FSP. lol.









Welcome to the P5N-E thread!
(On second thought, maybe I have seen you here before...







)


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Yessir. 
The only thing not stable in that screenie is the mobo, which doesn't like past 470FSB, but it'll do up to 480 as long as you stay off folding.

My RAM does 4-3-3-4 up to probably at least DDR2-1050 before it wants more juice.

My board is the "lightly modified" class and yours is going to be "Arca's Truck-ified" (No one but us will get that...lawls) and I'll still win.









Going from those timings from:
4-4-4-10-20-35-6-9-5 only shaved off about .25 seconds at the most. Gotta get more done than that.










LOL

@ NB, mine burnt me, not cool, HR-05 = free
@ SB, free southbridge cooler, looks cool, might aswell use it
@ Mosfets, an attempt to get more FSB


----------



## Delphi

Hey also got another set of ram, Crucial Ballistix DDR2 800 (not the tracers)


----------



## DonNiger

Tested my first Celeron last night. It took only 5 minutes (one boot) to have 4 Ghz. I hope, I will pass 5 Ghz finally.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=211471


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
LOL

@ NB, mine burnt me, not cool, HR-05 = free
@ SB, free southbridge cooler, looks cool, might aswell use it
@ Mosfets, an attempt to get more FSB

I said beat me at 3.3Ghz.
Not beat me balls to the wall.
Goober.


----------



## willhub

So is it normal for the NB to burn people?

In Windows Vista at 3.2ghz (NB set to auto, 1.45v cpu, 2.2v memory), i've been doing orthos for 6 hours now and its still stable, in Windows XP orthos fails after 11mins and when overclocked just even clicking coretemp resets







, you think when I overclocked my memory too far and it was getting loads of errors that its made the OS severly unstable?


----------



## The Pook

CoreTemp causing crashes is a .95 version problem. Revert to .94 CoreTemp.


----------



## Christiaan

I'd suggest using Memtest86+ to test if your RAM is stable. Burn the ISO to a CD then boot from it. It'll run the program automatically.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I'd suggest using Memtest86+ to test if your RAM is stable. Burn the ISO to a CD then boot from it. It'll run the program automatically.









Lol my ram must be stable i've got no problems in Vista, but i'm back at stock now.

i'm going to re install XP and Vista to rule out any corruption problems. How long should I run memtest for?


----------



## Christiaan

Let it pass once. You'll see two percentages, the first is the current test % the second is the total % complete. Let it run one time through all the tests.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Let it pass once. You'll see two percentages, the first is the current test % the second is the total % complete. Let it run one time through all the tests.

Ah ok thanks will do







, at the moment at 800mhz 4-4-4-10 I think my ram is stable, now it can do 1066 5-5-5-15 but I think to go any lower latency its going to need more voltage and a good ram cooler. Also you know anywere that shows all the timing of my ram at stock? I dont mean just 3-3-3-10, I mean the heaps of other timings because I leave them set to auto as i'm unsure there real timing for the Crucial Ballistix PC5300 667mhz apart from the main ones which are 3-3-3-10, I dont know what to set the timing at, 800mhz 4-4-4-9 or 1066Mhz 5-5-5-15?

CPU seems stable at 3.2ghz now with NB voltage set to auto and Vcore at 1.45v, at 1.47V I can get into Windows Vista but it will come up with a BSOD when using orthos and at 1.45v a Bsod before Windows even starts, so I need more voltage for 3.4ghz, proberbly about 1.5-1.55v but I dont think its going to do the cpu good at those voltages so i'm sticking to 3.2ghz, fast enough, got 6 hours orthos stable then stopped it to restart the computer.


----------



## Christiaan

Pook uses some program to check the sub timings. Can't remember what. We'll wait for him to come back. I think he went to sleep 2 hours ago. So we're gonna wait a while.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47*


Another set of RAM you can add to the compatibility list is the Geil DDR2 800 Ultra series. Works flawlessly and OCs like crazy.


Which Ultras would that be as im look at Geil to get my RAM


----------



## Kai-

Also add the G.Skill PC-6400 GBNR ram to the ok ram list.

To find the sub timings for ram, either go to the manufacturer website and look around in there(Might have to send in a question or something), or ask in the intel memory forum(Might as well try the AMD memory forum as well, its all the same stuff)

The auto subtimings caused some minor instability for me, setting them manually stopped this.


----------



## Wiljami

Hi.

I'll post this again if you guys missed it the first time:

"Hi again guys!
I was just wondering is it worth it buying (and using) a aftermarket heat pipe on NB.

Does any one have any ideas for heat sinks? One shop near me is selling Noctua NC-U6 Dual-Heatpipe for 24.40€. Is it better than Thermalright HR-05-SLI wich they are selling for 22.40€.
Is it worth buying heat sinks for both bridges.

Allso will they fit in with my NinjaB and 8800GTS 320mb?
Is there any other good stuff like AS5.. it's sold out on the local shop
Thanks again!"


----------



## Kai-

Reseat the stock NB heatsink with some good thermal paste(more on that in a sec), that should be fine for most needs, unless your bumping up the volts to 1.5 or 1.7.

The SB actually runs really cool compared to the NB. The NB heatsink burns my finger when I touch it, but the sb chip is only luke warm to touch. Heatsink not really necessary.

For thermal paste http://www.overclock.net/other-cooli...36-brands.html

Quote:

*|good thermal interface|*
Arctic Alumina *55.5*
Arctic Silver-3 *54.6*
AOS *54.5*
DC-340 *54.5*
Asetek *54.5*
Arctic Silver-5 *53.5*
Arctic Ceramique *53.5*

*|great thermal interface|*
Apus TMG 301 *52.5*
Gigabyte *52.5*
Titan Nano Grease TTG-G30010 *52.5*
GFC-M1 D90T8-010 *52.5*
Shin-Etsu MicroSi G-751 *52*

*|outstanding thermal interface|*
Arctic Cooling MX-1 *51.5*
Shin-Etsu MicroSi MPU-3.7 *50.5*
Coollaboratory Liquid Pro *50*
Although according to the peeps in that thread, the collaboratory liquid pro corrodes stuff and binds with copper or something like that so avoid it.


----------



## Kopi

GOT MY HR-05 SLI NOW









I spent the money and got an HR-05, i havn't put it on there yet...but if I may quote one famous P5N'er

"I should be strapping mine on soon"

You could reseat it but either of those NB heatsinks will be dandy


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Pook uses some program to check the sub timings. Can't remember what. We'll wait for him to come back. I think he went to sleep 2 hours ago. So we're gonna wait a while.










MemSet.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


GOT MY HR-05 SLI NOW









I spent the money and got an HR-05, i havn't put it on there yet...but if I may quote one famous P5N'er

"I should be strapping mine on soon"

You could reseat it but either of those NB heatsinks will be dandy


I'm not 100% sure if it's needed, but make sure you keep the square foam piece off the stock heatsink...you'll probably need it. I needed it on my TForce when Biostar sent me a new one because mine was borked and they didn't want me to RMA it, and they didn't send a new foam piece so I had to make one. <_<


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I'm not 100% sure if it's needed, but make sure you keep the square foam piece off the stock heatsink...you'll probably need it. I needed it on my TForce when Biostar sent me a new one because mine was borked and they didn't want me to RMA it, and they didn't send a new foam piece so I had to make one. <_<


Um... I removed that foam piece thing.








Is that bad?


----------



## The Pook

Supposed to keep it and reuse it.









Just don't put any weight on it...it's so that it doesn't slip if you move your rig a lot.


----------



## Christiaan

Whoops. ^^
Oh well. Can't do much about that now. It got all soggy and weird when I put my thermal paste remover on. So I scrapped it.


----------



## Kopi

err...foam piece eh. Is it a little black square? Doesnt that go on the backplate?


----------



## Christiaan

Weren't we talking about the stock NB cooler? Otherwise I'm lost...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Weren't we talking about the stock NB cooler? Otherwise I'm lost...


Yeah.
On the stock NB, there is a black foam square. 
Supposed to use that on replacement heatsinks as well.

They're always a %*$)# to get off without ripping, though.


----------



## Kopi

oh it has one on it...so can i just use it with the new heatsink? if so i just will lol....the one for the HR-05 is already off anyways, its on the base of the cooler, not with the mounting kit


----------



## Retoric

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/0607.zip

Flashed it and works ok, seems more stable at 476 than 0602 bios.


----------



## DonNiger

About that 0607 bios, is the multiple bug fixed?

Finished with P Celeron 340, final result http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=211841


----------



## dpawl31

Nice job Don!
Still a Cellery O_O
I loved my Cellery. Run a 1M pie on that bad boy








I am interested!


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Nice job Don!
Still a Cellery O_O
I loved my Cellery. Run a 1M pie on that bad boy








I am interested!

(It isn't Cedar Mills)
Specially for you:


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Thanks Sgt!
Added the RAM








I don't think I've seen you in here before.









I checked your rig, saw your vcore lol.
I am guessing two things: Your actual vcore is probably lower;
and your PSU is probably the cause. Allthough I don't know much about Xion,
I don't believe they are a solid PSU, I could be wrong.
They could be made by FSP. lol.









Welcome to the P5N-E thread!
(On second thought, maybe I have seen you here before...







)

Seriously, I have it set that high. It's the only way I can get it to remain stable at 3.15 GHz.


----------



## Kai-

@ above, holy hell thats a high Vcore. But then again, it takes 1.49(before droop) for me to get 3.6, I suppose my higher multi helps that quite a bit :S


----------



## The Pook

Lotta vCore...


----------



## Kopi

Pookster, what settings do you have different than mine that allow you to get better times at the exact same speeds? Overclock the ram? Ram timings?


----------



## The Pook

Lots of tweaking random useless little stuff. That and timings.

BTW -- 7K posts.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DonNiger* 
(It isn't Cedar Mills)
Specially for you:



Don.. holy hell! That's about the same PI score I get with my 3.7Ghz D820!
DAMN! lol. Nice job.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sgtdisturbed47* 
Seriously, I have it set that high. It's the only way I can get it to remain stable at 3.15 GHz.

I am not saying you didn't have it set that high - I am saying your vcore is most likely NOT that high. Software is not accurate in the least (ask Pook!).
You should test it with a multimeter, I bet it's a lot lower.
Also, I said your PSU could be the issue. Specifically maybe it has issues with stable voltage so it takes MORE to keep it above a certain vcore.
I'd get yourself a new PSU =D

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Lots of tweaking random useless little stuff. That and timings.

BTW -- 7K posts.









7 thousand posts is the mark where you buy a needy netburster an E6420...

<-----


----------



## Asce

dpawl31, a miricle has happened and i got a 8800GTS 320Mb, 2Gb Geil ultra RAM, Thermalright HR-05-Sli, tuniq Tower for now until i can afford to go water cooling.


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Don.. holy hell! That's about the same PI score I get with my 3.7Ghz D820!
DAMN! lol. Nice job.

<-----










Considering that L2 cashe is only 235 kb, itś nice. Now I am leaving you for a month - I'll have a nice long vocation. But, in August, I'll have a D820 to test, also one Cedar Mills (Celeron) and C2D. And my E6700 is somewhere in my garage, or was it under the table


----------



## mchutch

I have been an AMD user for some time now. I would like someone here to help me OC my system. If I just OC the CPU is that reasonable? ...cause that's the only thing that's lacking at stock speeds. I will list my setup, please only respond if you know what you are talking about. I have a stock speed of 1.8GHz on a C2D E4300, I have read it can go to 3.8GHz (extreme cases) but I'm looking for a 2.4-2.8 GHz range. What do I do for the CPU OC? Change the FSB speed x multiplier, raise vcore to 1.425 and go unlinked for RAM? ect...Not sure what's important so I'm going to list everything. The CPU idles at 32*C.

CPU, GPU, NB and SB reseated w/ Arctic Silver Ceramique
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 cpu Stock cooler
Asus P5N-E SLI Motherboard
EVGA 8800 GTS 640MB (may overclock later on)
Mushkin EM2-6400 DDR2-800 2x1GB 5-5-5-12 (BIOS is on AUTO)
Ultra X-Finity 600W ATX SLI PSU
Thermaltake Matrix ATX Case
Creative Sound Blaster X-FI Xtreme Music
SATA Lite-On DVD-ROM
SATA LG DVD+/-RW
Mitsumi Floppy/Flashcard drive
3 x 120mm Case fans
Northbridge: Silenx Ixtrema Pro 40MM Copper Chipset Cooler
Southbridge: Zalman NB47J Fanless Chipset Cooler
Dual boot XP Pro x86 | Vista Home Premium x64
Samsung 19" WXGA 5ms DVI LCD
Saitek Eclipse II Keyboard
MS Wireless Laser 5000 Mouse
Cyber Snipa Aluminum Mouse Pad
Creative I-Trigue 3220 2.1 Speakers

Remember my objective, to OC CPU to 2.8GHz, rather not OC the RAM and BUS, unless one of you experienced guys was gonna come over and do it yourself...lol. I don't have luck with OCing RAM. Thanks in advance for any and all help.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mchutch*


I have been an AMD user for some time now. I would like someone here to help me OC my system. If I just OC the CPU is that reasonable? ...cause that's the only thing that's lacking at stock speeds. I will list my setup, please only respond if you know what you are talking about. I have a stock speed of 1.8GHz on a C2D E4300, I have read it can go to 3.8GHz (extreme cases) but I'm looking for a 2.4-2.8 GHz range. What do I do for the CPU OC? Change the FSB speed x multiplier, raise vcore to 1.425 and go unlinked for RAM? ect...Not sure what's important so I'm going to list everything. The CPU idles at 32*C.

CPU, GPU, NB and SB reseated w/ Arctic Silver Ceramique
Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 cpu Stock cooler
Asus P5N-E SLI Motherboard
EVGA 8800 GTS 640MB (may overclock later on)
Mushkin EM2-6400 DDR2-800 2x1GB 5-5-5-12 (BIOS is on AUTO)
Ultra X-Finity 600W ATX SLI PSU
Thermaltake Matrix ATX Case
Creative Sound Blaster X-FI Xtreme Music
SATA Lite-On DVD-ROM
SATA LG DVD+/-RW
Mitsumi Floppy/Flashcard drive
3 x 120mm Case fans
Northbridge: Silenx Ixtrema Pro 40MM Copper Chipset Cooler
Southbridge: Zalman NB47J Fanless Chipset Cooler
Dual boot XP Pro x86 | Vista Home Premium x64
Samsung 19" WXGA 5ms DVI LCD
Saitek Eclipse II Keyboard
MS Wireless Laser 5000 Mouse
Cyber Snipa Aluminum Mouse Pad
Creative I-Trigue 3220 2.1 Speakers

Remember my objective, to OC CPU to 2.8GHz, rather not OC the RAM and BUS, unless one of you experienced guys was gonna come over and do it yourself...lol. I don't have luck with OCing RAM. Thanks in advance for any and all help.


You can't not overclock your "bus", and if you don't OC your RAM, you're RAM will be running at DDR2-533 at the stock settings. (Unless you change it off of sync.)


----------



## mchutch

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
You can't not overclock your "bus", and if you don't OC your RAM, you're RAM will be running at DDR2-533 at the stock settings. (Unless you change it off of sync.)


I don't understand your double negative. You cannot overclock the bus or there's no way you can overclock the cpu without overclocking the bus? Also my RAM is running @ 800MHz, not 533MHz. And you can unlink so RAM is not affected when OCing the CPU.

Either way thanks for pointing that out but that wasn't much help. What do people with E4300's OC to? If for example I'd like 2.8GHz, would 9x 311MHz be fine? What do I set the RAM at? Should I manually set RAM timings even if AUTO is completely stable?

Someone please help me out here...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mchutch* 
I don't understand your double negative. You cannot overclock the bus or there's no way you can overclock the cpu without overclocking the bus? Also my RAM is running @ 800MHz, not 533MHz. And you can unlink so RAM is not affected when OCing the CPU.

Either way thanks for pointing that out but that wasn't much help. What do people with E4300's OC to? If for example I'd like 2.8GHz, would 9x 311MHz be fine? What do I set the RAM at? Should I manually set RAM timings even if AUTO is completely stable?

Someone please help me out here...

You're stock now.
IE, 266FSB. (1066.)
Your RAM needs to run 1:1 to "not be overclocked."
1:1 with 266FSB is DDR2-533.
If it's running at DDR2-800, then you already overclocked your RAM. (By running a larger divider.)
The board defaults to DDR2-800 on DDR2-800 RAM, but since it is not running 1:1, the RAM is still being OCed.

OCing RAM is not difficult, you just have to sit down for a while to figure out latencies.

Your BUS determines your OC. Since you can't just OC by raising the multi on your chip, you have to raise the FSB (Bus is just the FSB x4) to OC. If you raise the FSB, you raise the bus. You said you don't want to OC your "bus."


----------



## whitewiz

Since mchutch already started talking about the E4300 on Im just gonna jump in with some questions in relation to that.

Im building a new pc with the P5N-E SLI 650i mb and a E4400, and although I'we read quite alot of posts about people using the E4300 I have not seen anyone using the E4400.

So I'm just wondering if there are any 4400-ers here that knows what a suitable goal for overclocking would be?

And if so, since I'm somewhat of a beginner in the area, It wouldnt hurt to know what the suitable settings for FSB and multiplier would be.

And important to notice, Im using the stock cooler atm.

This is my first post here btw, so please ignore any stupidity i the questions above.


----------



## Kopi

You guys just dont get it.

Cluster One is never wrong. How can you not see this? Its plain as day









Look, if you're going to come into a thread and just say its CHANCE that ram works..you know, just sometimes it may work and sometimes it may not, you're wrong.

@Whitewiz
A goal for that chip should be around the 3ghz mark, no problem. More, i wouldn't doubt. I'm guessing here, because all chips are different...but the multiplier is...10x right?

300 x 10 = 3000mhz
In the bios however, the FSB (300) is showed in its _effective_ speed, so it will read 4 times its actual number. 300fsb will read as 1200 in the bios. You'll probably need anywhere from 1.35 volts to 1.45 volts on the vcore...its best to not follow any guidelines and to find out whats best for your chip


----------



## The Pook

A nice goal is anything you'd be happy with.

Very few Core 2 Duo's (any of them) can't hit 3Ghz, though. I'd aim for about 3.2Ghz.

The multi can't be changed on Intel chips. Well, not up. 
Turn up the FSB by 30.
Orthos for 30 minutes.
Turn up FSB by 20.
Orthos for 30 minutes.
Turn up FSB by 15.
Orthos for 30 minutes.
After 5, repeat in decreasing intervals until you get to 5, and keep going up by 5 until Orthos fails within 30 minutes.

Once there, turn the northbridge voltage to 1.5v, and bring the CPU voltage up to 1.45v.

Run Orthos again for 30 minutes. If it's stable, keep raising the FSB by 5-10 until it is unstable again. At that point, chances are your RAM is the limiting factor.

If you run Orthos again and it's not stable, it's your RAM. Give it more voltage. (Don't go above 2.2v without a fan over it.) If it's still unstable with more voltage, change timings up to 5-5-5-15 and try again.

Once you're happy with your OC, run Orthos for 24 hours. If it's stable, you're set.


----------



## Cluster One

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Look, if you're going to come into a thread and just say its CHANCE that ram works..you know, just sometimes it may work and sometimes it may not, you're wrong.


look into it and prove me otherwise then

you dont even own the board so you have about 0 credibility when discussing it.


----------



## Adsman

Hey guys,

First up, the first page says I should intro my self, so here I am.

I need a bit of help with this board. I am getting BSODs and all kind of fun stuff.

Does anyone have a short description of the major things to set in the bios? Or could someone point me to a post which handles it?

I don't really want to overclock my memory, as it can run happily at 800Mhz with 4 4 3 8 timings on 2.2v. and that is as fast as I want to push it at the moment. Problem is that despite the Manufacturer saying this is possible, i can't set it to anything near that at the moment without getting BSODs with Memory Management warnings.

I want to be able to 3Ghz on the E6300, which I gather isn't all that difficult, hell I'd settle for 2.6-2.8 at this stage. I am cooling the CPU and NB with a custom watercooling system, so I figure the cooling is fine and the temps stay low.

Oh and I am using the 0401 bios.

What should my first couple of steps be?

Cheers for the help









Ads


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cluster One* 
look into it and prove me otherwise then

you dont even own the board so you have about 0 credibility when discussing it.

For the record, yes he does. Check his other rigs.

Nice job.









And, *you* come making into the thread making statements that are untrue, and when we say you aren't right, you ask us for proof. Why don't you show us proof that 4GB doesn't work when using compatable sticks?

That or stop filling the topic with 2nd hand information from a Crucial rep about an Asus product.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Adsman* 
Hey guys,

First up, the first page says I should intro my self, so here I am.

I need a bit of help with this board. I am getting BSODs and all kind of fun stuff.

Does anyone have a short description of the major things to set in the bios? Or could someone point me to a post which handles it?

I don't really want to overclock my memory, as it can run happily at 800Mhz with 4 4 3 8 timings on 2.2v. and that is as fast as I want to push it at the moment. Problem is that despite the Manufacturer saying this is possible, i can't set it to anything near that at the moment without getting BSODs with Memory Management warnings.

I want to be able to 3Ghz on the E6300, which I gather isn't all that difficult, hell I'd settle for 2.6-2.8 at this stage. I am cooling the CPU and NB with a custom watercooling system, so I figure the cooling is fine and the temps stay low.

Oh and I am using the 0401 bios.

What should my first couple of steps be?

Cheers for the help









Ads

When you get BSODs, they when stock or OCed?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cluster One* 
look into it and prove me otherwise then

you dont even own the board so you have about 0 credibility when discussing it.

I have a couple rigs, my main rig using this board. I have credibility.

YOU on the other hand show up out of nowhere with 50 posts...riiight.


----------



## Adsman

They have occurred at various points but all have been when the default bios settings have been changed.

So yes, overclocked is one way or another.

At one stage the only thing I had changed was making the the FSB and Mem unlinked, pushing the fsb up to 1300 and changing the vcore.

I really need someone to give me a first step or several steps to follow.

Thanks BTW.

Adsman


----------



## The Pook

Seems like you have a similar board to mine...it didn't like to budge much at all on stock northbridge voltages.

Try knocking it up to 1.3/1.5v...both of which are safe 24/7 voltages.








Also, depending on the week E6300 you have, you may have to add some vcore to the CPU if it's a newer, non G0 stepping.









Either way, it seems like a voltage problem to me.
What is your RAM running at, btw? Might be not enough vDimm, or timings are too tight at that speed.


----------



## mchutch

Well just flashed to the 0607 BIOS, been running for hours with no issues...yet...lol. Anyone know what functions ect are added? Why is there no documentation with the download?

As for the OC help, that long "Orthos" process sounds reliable, but wouldn't a long tedious method just heat up the machine so you couldn't find it's true "sweet spot"?

If I wanted say, 2.6GHz I would have 9x with 288.888MHz FSB 1.475 vcore and RAM on say a 3/2?

Still.....more help and input appreciated.


----------



## Adsman

Thanks Pook

I will adjust the nb voltage (to 1.3-1.5) and the vdimm voltage (to 2.2 -recommended by the manufacturer)

and then I'll get back to you

Cheers

Adam


----------



## Mussels

Hey guys - new here. Considering upgrading to this board, as a friend really wants to buy my old one and it doesn't quite suit my needs.

I've ran 3.8GHz (overheated) on mu current system (noctua 120 cooler) and I'm a bit sick of having only 1 PCI slot (really want two, TV tuner and a wireless card)

Proposed system:
Asus P5n-E SLI
Thermalright Ultra 120 extreme
HR-05 SLI (northbridge)
small 40mm heatsink from another mobo (Southbridge)
8800GTX (already have this)

The big question is - will the HR-05 SLI fit alongside a large cooler like the noctua or the Thermalright, with the CPU cooler facing to the REAR of the case - i DON'T want to be feeding all that heat into my PSU.

Can someone using one of these large coolers and/or an owner of the HR-05 SLI on this board please let me know if this combination will fit facing with the CPU cooler the rear of the case (aka, towards the USB/audio connectors), and the NB cooler pointing roughly towards the ram slot, WITHOUT hitting either the ram or the video card.

I'm ready to make the order right now, just afraid it wont fit


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mussels*


Hey guys - new here. Considering upgrading to this board, as a friend really wants to buy my old one and it doesn't quite suit my needs.

I've ran 3.8GHz (overheated) on mu current system (noctua 120 cooler) and I'm a bit sick of having only 1 PCI slot (really want two, TV tuner and a wireless card)

Proposed system:
Asus P5n-E SLI
Thermalright Ultra 120 extreme
HR-05 SLI (northbridge)
small 40mm heatsink from another mobo (Southbridge)
8800GTX (already have this)

The big question is - will the HR-05 SLI fit alongside a large cooler like the noctua or the Thermalright, with the CPU cooler facing to the REAR of the case - i DON'T want to be feeding all that heat into my PSU.

Can someone using one of these large coolers and/or an owner of the HR-05 SLI on this board please let me know if this combination will fit facing with the CPU cooler the rear of the case (aka, towards the USB/audio connectors), and the NB cooler pointing roughly towards the ram slot, WITHOUT hitting either the ram or the video card.

I'm ready to make the order right now, just afraid it wont fit










Let me get back to you tomorrow as ive got the Tuniq Tower and HR-05 to fit


----------



## PikeyBoy

Just wanna say hi to everyone first of all. im fairly new to overclocking so some good help should come in useful.
Ive posted two cpu-z pictures. my question is how much does memory timings affect overclocking? my divider is weird i guess. is it better to have the ram at full speed 800mhz or a lower speed with better timings? linked or unlinked?also how can i also increase my overclock can u see better options that i cant ?

thanks for any help people

My system is a P5N-E, 4x512mb Geil, 160gb Sata2, Pentium D915 ([email protected])
Mostly stock cooling except for an old fan from my celeron 400 on the northbridge.


----------



## Christiaan

Welcome PikeyBoy

When overclocking RAM, relaxing the timings helps. As higher timings allow for a higher memory speed.

And from what I've read on the forums. AMD CPUs prefer tighter timings while Intel CPUs prefer higher memory speeds.

From what I've read on this thread. You want a 1:1 ratio between your FSB and RAM for best stability. This is the claim anyway.







Your bus speed is 247 at the moment. Running it 1:1 with your RAM will mean you'll have your RAM running the same speed, 247. That's DDR 494.

I myself have a 1:2 ratio. Meaning my RAM is twice the speed of my FSB, because my FSB is so low. My FSB is only 175, 1:1 with RAM would be DDR350 (too low to my liking, and a noticeable performance drop), now with 1:2 it's DDR700. Slight overclock from the stock 667 speed.









I run unlinked to manually enter RAM speeds.

Hope I answered your questions.

Feel free to ask anything else.

Oh btw. Go to User CP and add a system so we can see all your system specs.


----------



## PikeyBoy

Isn't my memory speed 429 @ DDR 858Mhz? This memory thing is bonkers.


----------



## PikeyBoy

the multiplyer on the d915 is this locked?


----------



## Christiaan

Your PD915 is multi locked. Only Core 2 Duo CPU's can go one digit lower on the multipler. I think the Extreme Editions can go up as well.

FSB speeds are quad pumped. As shown under rated speed in CPU-Z.
RAM is doubled. Your RAMs real speed is 429, but effectively it's 858.

Making sense?


----------



## Kopi

Christiaan you've definitely learned alot, and now the torch is passed to you on explaining thiis one, you're doinig a great job


----------



## PikeyBoy

Thanks for the speedy responses mate top bloke


----------



## PikeyBoy

Do you think getting a zalman cpu cooler will let me higer my volts? cause i when i up my cpu voltage to 1.3+ i get over 60* full load. ive gotta admit though at the moment some decent thermal paste would probably help me.


----------



## PikeyBoy

sry for all the questions. anyone know where i can get a SB Heatsink (uk)? Do i need One? also how can i measure the Nbridge temp? on asus pc probe is MB the northbridge temp? if so is 34* hot or okay


----------



## Kopi

Motherboard temps are measured in a weird way though. The temps there are

Northbridge Temp + Southbridge Temp *divided by* 2. So its the average of the two. As long as it reads below 40c you should be ok.

I have a Zalman CPU cooler, it rocks! I would definitely look into getting aftermarket coolng for your chip.

As for your southbridge, you should be OK without one, but it wouldn't hurt to spend 5 bucks getting a small one.

Dont worry about all the questions, that IS why we're here!


----------



## Christiaan

Thanks Kopi and pleasure PikeyBoy. Always glad to help.

I agree with Kopi. Zalman is a great CPU cooler. Make sure you have decent case airflow.

Keeps my baby (sig rig) between 55-58 degrees depending on ambients.


----------



## Kopi

hey you have a 9500 i forgot! Yes, I've fallen in love with my once enemy Zalman. I used to think they were unreliable, only cooled well half the time for some reason, needed lapping, boy was I ever wrong. I had 10 heatsinks here and I chose it over all of them. Go zalman!


----------



## Asce

Ive installed the Realtek HD codec but i cant hear any sound is there anything i need to do to get it to work.








Nevermind, im sooo stupid forgot to put the jacks in properly


----------



## dpawl31

Zalman 9700 is the only Zalman worth it's weight in... uh, something.
Nice job with all the advice guys, I've been in surgery since 8am this morning so I was obviously not around to help!


----------



## whitewiz

I'd like to say thanks for the previous answers by Kopi and The Pook.

But now if i go for using an fsb of 320 (the multiplier of E4400 is 10x) i would land on 3.2ghz.

Would this be the most efficient way? Or would a higher fsb and lower multiplier (you can lower the multiplier right?) be a more efficient way?

You can see I'm new to this.









Im also buying some 800mhz rated DDR2 6400 RAM. If using 1st "settings" above would linking the memory (@640 right?), or using it unlinked at around 800mhz be the best choise?

I havn´t really decided which ones yet. ANy tips for good performance&cheap
would be really appreciated.

This thread is really full of information for beginners like me. Hope i have learned something more after one or two good answers to this post.


----------



## Asce

What do i need to do in CPU settings before i oc this to 3.0Ghz


----------



## Mussels

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Let me get back to you tomorrow as ive got the Tuniq Tower and HR-05 to fit


Thanks, its the weekend now, but i can order monday









Edit:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/sho...2/ppuser/30326

Right here i managed to find a pic of the cooler fitting just nicely, towards the PCI-E slot.
Looks like quite a lot of room there, All i need now is to find out if i can face the other way, as i really dont know just how wide the thermalright cooler is!


----------



## dpawl31

WhiteWiz- Try these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146565

And as far as the RAM speeds, overclock while in 1:1 for stability purposes, then try running a divider, depending on what your best overclock is, that will help you pick your divider. 3.2Ghz and your RAM @ 320 should be fine. That would give you a 4:5 divider which is nice. (320/400) which will allow your RAM to run @ stock speeds, it's fastest without overclocking the RAM.

Asce I am currently working on a full "How-To Tweak the P5N-E" Guide that I will be posting as a word document on the first page.
*I am looking for input from everyone.*
I want to have this available so whenever someone comes in and says "OK I have everything installed, what now?" We can just say start with the guide!
I have the next two days off due to my surgery and will be trying to compile everything I have, plus some others.

Mussels- that's Mr. Pink's rig, he has dual HR-05 SLI =D Lucky bum.
Honestly though, it's really not necessary.
A high quality northbridge cooler w/ fan, and ANYTHING for the northbridge is all you'll need. Click the two links in my sig (NB/SB) to see what I am getting for mine... I think they are gorgeous








I am going to mod a single small fan for the northbridge so it has NO FRAME. As in, glue the motor directly to the top of the heatsink and remove the body of the fan. I think it's gonna look great =D


----------



## Kopi

I think you would benefit from going 9x or even 8x multiplier. At an 8x multiplier you'd be looking at 400FSB which is easily accomplished on this board and it leaves your ram at its stock speeds. That, in my opinion would be your best bet. Take it from there, you should be able to hit 3.6 on a 8x multi or even more, temperature dependent

Dpawl, surgery, why, how'd it go? Let's hear it


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I think you would benefit from going 9x or even 8x multiplier. At an 8x multiplier you'd be looking at 400FSB which is easily accomplished on this board and it leaves your ram at its stock speeds. That, in my opinion would be your best bet. Take it from there, you should be able to hit 3.6 on a 8x multi or even more, temperature dependent

Dpawl, surgery, why, how'd it go? Let's hear it

E4400s have two lower multis?









Higher FSB to reach same clock speeds (via lower multi) boast more performance.
But if you can only reach, say, 400FSB, try it at the highest multi you have.
Highest multi will give you higher clock speed









As for the surgery... finally got my front teeth fixed.
Ever since I was a kid, I had a severe problem with the dentist.
My first dentist created a solid fear, that is now a permanent issue.
I have tried hypnosis, no go. Basically, I want to get the work done.
But the second a drill starts wailing, or get pricked with a needle,
I start beating the ____ out of whoever's doing it. Seriously.
I just can't stop it, it's all deep mental junk. It's so bad









Anyway, I had two root canals, 5 crowns (temporary till about 3 weeks) and a full cleaning.
Lot of work eh?
Yeah- that's what Sedation Dentistry is for








I took Valium, Triazolam, some other drug @ the office (powder form) and gas. Not to mention ... somewhere around ~ 15 shots of novicaine.
I'll attach some pics in a minute









First one will be of me sitting in the chair with four front upper teeth ground down for crowns... real freaky, haha.
Second will be me, still high as a kite, taking a pic of my new "temporaries"

OK Pics up... I may not look happy, at all, but I am.
They did a LOT, and I mean a LOT of gum work.
Gum Work Pain > All.


----------



## Kopi

Nah I forgot, Core2Duo chips only allow one multi lower...so 9 is your best bet sir!

I hate the dentist too man..those drills and high pitch stuff..naaah not for me


----------



## Asce

Mussels i got some pics with my hr-05 and tuniq tower installed. I got into a nice little fight with the tower and came out the loser









Sorry for the bad quality pics, i took them on my phone.








That was a tight fit


















The fans that sounded like i was back at work









My finger after the battle

But im officially part of this thread


----------



## Kai-

Nice!

I've gotten into many a fistycuff with my TT120, but I always showed it who is boss.

Fire up super pi and stuff for some benchies ^_^


----------



## Asce

Well i got 8033 in 3d mark 06


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Well i got 8033 in 3d mark 06










Overclock your system, I got 11442 in 3DMark 06 with my E6600 at 3.2ghz, 8800GTS at 650/2.2ghz and ram at 800Mhz 4-4-4-12.


----------



## Kai-

Thats alright for stock(At least I hope it's stock







), I only get 8200-ish with my sig rig at stock.

Once you get a nice OC you should easily get 10k++


----------



## Asce

It was stock and the fan i shown the pic of are 40db and i could hear them with my door shut will i was in the bathroom


----------



## whitewiz

Thanks yet again for teriffic answers.

Eagerly awaiting your guide dpawl31.

Your suggestion about the ram sounds nice too, they have them here in Sweden too,(@ komplett).
But here its 1.6x the price at newegg.(185$ is the price here, or 1299 sek).
So im wondering if anybode located in Eu know a good site with atleast almost as good price as newegg.

I checked newegg numerus times for shipping to other countries but i guess they don't do that.


----------



## Asce

I dont know any sites in the EU that would ship to Sweeden


----------



## whitewiz

@Asce
Should I take that as you know serveral sites, but they don´t ship to sweden?

Well you can tell them all please, since I might be going to germany soon and if they have them where Im going it would be worth checking them out.


----------



## Kai-

Hey, dprawl31, in your guide thingy, make sure you mention that peeps should manually set ALL ram timings. I had my sub timings on auto, and suffered minor instability, but once I got them on the manfactuer spec timings, no more instability.

Oh and add G.Skill 2*1GB F2-6400PHU2-2GBNR kit to the good ram list.


----------



## dpawl31

Asce your system is looking nice =D Congrats.

Kai - I will definately make a note that if you can find your subtimings, it helps some instability. But I can't say they MUST because most people can't find them.
I will add the RAM right now







Thanks.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *whitewiz*


@Asce
Should I take that as you know serveral sites, but they donÂ´t ship to sweden?

Well you can tell them all please, since I might be going to germany soon and if they have them where Im going it would be worth checking them out.


Have a look at www.scan.co.uk, www.microdirect.co.uk but there should be some german sites to buy components from and will be cheaper than getting it from the UK.

Dpawl31 it looks nice esp. with the orange heatspreaders but maybe not the blood thats probably in there and i got it at 2.8 ghz but havent ran Orthos yet


----------



## Kai-

Most G.Skill ram subtimings can be found here - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=132494 So you could link to that as a reference.


----------



## Kopi

Dpawl do you know subtimings for our chips?


----------



## Mussels

Ok, so it looks like things will all fit happily. Just remind myself not to feed blood to the PC....

I remember dropping a zalman 7000-CU once, brand new - i caught it mid air, only to have the sharp fins slice the crap out of ALL the fingers on my right hand is it slid out of my grip









Anyway - i scavenged a heatsink off a dead celeron 500 systems motherboard for the southbridge (-very- low profile) and i'll be ordering the mobo and HR-05 SLI monday.

I uhh... hope your finger heals.

P.S: Whats this about one multi? My E6600 has 7x 8x and 9x options, i thought all C2D chips had three selections? ^ those three above all work fine on my current board, i used them when testing out various components for OCing.


----------



## Kopi

Aha so i was right. I thought that on all C2D you could lower the multi from its original down to 6. the e6300 chips can go from 7 to 6...so i thought that e6600 could go 9, 8, 7, 6..then i heard somewhere they could only lower one multi so i thought I was wrong >_>

Anyways, dpawl, you can add a bunch of coolers to that support list

9700nt
Noctua NH-u12
Scythe Iinfinity
Thermaltake V1
Thermalright Ultra-90
Tuniq Tower

Incompatible is
XP-90
Enzotech Ultra-X


----------



## nick69

The Noctua NH-U12, does that include the U12F?? The new one?

I was thinking about getting the U12F and just wanted to make sure it was going fit!


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mussels*


Ok, so it looks like things will all fit happily. Just remind myself not to feed blood to the PC....

I remember dropping a zalman 7000-CU once, brand new - i caught it mid air, only to have the sharp fins slice the crap out of ALL the fingers on my right hand is it slid out of my grip









Anyway - i scavenged a heatsink off a dead celeron 500 systems motherboard for the southbridge (-very- low profile) and i'll be ordering the mobo and HR-05 SLI monday.

I uhh... hope your finger heals.


It happened when i tried unpluging the 4pin molex to the 40db, only it took alot more effort to get it to come apart and you can have a guess what happened next with the downwards motion. Got it OC'ed to 2.9Ghz, idling about 35C with a Vcore of 1.31, havent Orthos it yet tho might do it tomorrow.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nick69*


The Noctua NH-U12, does that include the U12F?? The new one?

I was thinking about getting the U12F and just wanted to make sure it was going fit!


I only had the NH-U12...if the F is similar enough I dont see why it wouldn't mount, the Noctua was one of the easier mounting coolers i've tested.


----------



## _^MeRcY

I think the Asus P5N-E ROCKS MY SOX


----------



## Kai-

It rocks j00r jocks all the way down to j00r sox?


----------



## dpawl31

You two... are...









lol.

Yet, I agree O_O

I just won 1GB of Super Talent DDR2-667 in the freebies section... thanks to a few fellows... I love OCN! It renews my faith in humanity! lol.


----------



## PikeyBoy

Hi sorry me again i dont feel im completely understanding these memory timing things. If i set the memory speed in our motherboards to 800 does that mean im running my memory at its full speed as it gives final values? i have geil 800 (6400) memory so setting it to 800 in bios is literally 800 or ddr 400 as shown in cpu-z?

(i can get 860 on the memry with 1000 on the fsb for 3.5ghz) or i can link them at 990. ie both memory and bus at 990(does this mean my memory is overclocking from 800 to 990?) if so which would be better?

cheers


----------



## PikeyBoy

Sry again heres a cpu-z photo. does it mean my memory is only running at 500mhz or 1000? is 1000 overclocked?


----------



## PikeyBoy

sorry i know enough questions already!

Anybosy also know why the pci express link width goes down sometimee? its at 1x as i type.


----------



## Mussels

1x? Perhaps the SLI device in the middle of the board is loose, 1x sounds bad :S


----------



## Kopi

In the bios your ram shows as its final value, so at stock your ram is 800mhz (will show as 400 in CPU-z). Right now you're at 1000mhz, which is overclocked and will show as 500mhz in CPU-z. 1000mhz is overclocked from 800mhz so thats a fair overclock!

Not sure about that PCI-e link width, it doenst sound too serious to me though.


----------



## dpawl31

PCIE link width, most likely he is right I bet the switch board is loose.
If not... are you using CPUZ to tell if it's x1?

As far as memory, let's put it this way, your chip is essentially the same as mine, 2.8ghz stock w/ 14 multi, except yours is 65nm tech.

Anyway, @ 1000 effective FSB (your BIOS #) you are really @ 250, quad pumped.
In order to run your RAM @ 1:1 ratio, you need to set it to 500 in your BIOS. Just do it manually









Basically, since your effective FSB is FSBx4, and your RAM is x2, your ram will always be effectively rated at half your effective FSB. (ie 1000FSB and 500 DDR2)
I hope I am not losing you here!

If you notice in CPUZ your RAM divider states 1:2. That is because your true FSB is 250Mhz, and your RAM is 500Mhz. Your RAM is running twice as fast as your CPU.

I am sure you can push that chip further, I have seen them over 4ghz. 
Just keep an eye on temps. 
Run 1:1 as you overclock. Oh, and 1000mhz on your ram and its stable eh? You must have some D9 chips







Once you get your max CPU overclock, you can bump your ram up until it's unstable and try to get the best push out of it









Hope this helped. If you need more you can add me to MSN or XFIRE (MSN on left panel, XFIRE in sig)


----------



## Asce

Orthos for 3 hours and no problems with running at 2.9Ghz and im still in the low 40's at load


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Orthos for 3 hours and no problems with running at 2.9Ghz and im still in the low 40's at load


Dude, pump that thing up to 3.2 already! (400x8)










You havin' fun yet?


----------



## Asce

Of course, just OC'ed my GTS a little aswell. Im getting there just need a good way of monitoring the temps as i only got PC probe atm


----------



## The Pook

I come back from VA and Kopi still hasn't attempted to beat me in Super Pi.

COME ONNNNNNNNNNNNN.


----------



## dpawl31

Hey, nice rig pook.









What'd you do to yo' ram?!


----------



## Kopi

Renny never shipped me my mounting bracket for the HR-05 lmao
Waiting for my SB cooler n mosfet goodies..


----------



## dpawl31

Mosfet goodies, what mosfet goodies? Pics?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Hey, nice rig pook.









What'd you do to yo' ram?!

Seeing the RMA next to it, I assume it broke. >___>


----------



## Kopi

You may have a 1s fast superPI

But I have a working computer.

I think I win.

Err...just some mosfet heatsinks that should be good for something maybe


----------



## The Pook

I have a working computer too.

2 of them. Will be 3 again in a week or so.


----------



## Kopi

I have a working Core 2 Duo.

Kopi 1
Pook 0










That 16s run you made was at what speed pooker? And was your ram at 1:1?


----------



## The Pook

My Core 2 Duo works fine.


----------



## Kopi

Go on it now?

See what I mean?

Refer to post #2560 for further questioning


----------



## The Pook

My RAM is at RMA.

My Core 2 Duo works fine.

Lack of details pwnt your ass.

Kopi : 0
Pook : 2


----------



## Kopi

My Core 2 Duo System = working
Pooks Core 2 Duo System = not working due to lack of ram

Kopi wins.

Now answer my questtiooonnns


----------



## The Pook

My Core 2 Duo works.
Which is what you said didn't work first.

Goob.


----------



## Kopi

I meant core 2 duo rig...i figured you had a little common sense.

Stop avoiding my question!


----------



## The Pook

You said Core 2 Duo. Core 2 Duo is a processor.

Use adjectives.


----------



## Kopi

Still...ignoring...my...question.

Oh well I don't care really..just curious. I'll try to be incredibly grammatically correct next time.


----------



## The Pook

I never saw a question. You rambled about my dead rig too long. >_____>

The screenshot with CPU-Z and all speed infoz = in my sig. All yer anserz are in there.


----------



## Kopi

4-3-3-4! ***! Thats crazy!! How did you get your tras so low? Crazy timings..

I tried memset before but it crashed my PC...hm..


----------



## The Pook

Crazy, yes. But dead.


----------



## _^MeRcY

when did you get your c2d pook ?


----------



## _^MeRcY

does anyone know how much i can oc my processor more by any chance ?


----------



## Kopi

each processor has its own limit.

You have to find it.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*


when did you get your c2d pook ?


Around November 06.


----------



## Cyph3r

Hey I just relised. My P5N-E doesn't have any cooling solution at all on the south bridge? And it gets freakin hot. I've burnt myself on my southbridge :/


----------



## Asce

Get a small akasa chipset cooler or you can go to PC World and get it for like £6
http://microdirect.co.uk/(11973)Akas...ight-blue.aspx

Plus is the only blue thing in my case, should got and get a small green fan for it


----------



## Kopi

Looks almost identcal to what I put on my southbridge.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...5196&CatId=498


----------



## Asce

Probably is but with a different brand and heatsink.


----------



## Kai-

I'm getting one of those Zalman heatsinks to put on the SB. You don't really need active cooling if you have good airflow do you?


----------



## dpawl31

For southbridge? Nah. But it's a plus.
Northbridge you don't even need active - unless you have real bad airflow in your case.


----------



## Asce

Im roughly in the low 40C's with a passive hr-05.


----------



## whitewiz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Looks almost identcal to what I put on my southbridge.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...5196&CatId=498


Will those really stick to the SB?


----------



## Asce

Yes, they have an adesive thermal pad and connects to one your the mobo fan headers


----------



## b1gapl

Did anyone try the new 0608 BIOS yet?

On a side note, has anyone tried overclocking with all the voltages on auto? I read an article on this, and by putting all the voltages on auto, it went straight to 3.5GHz....I tried this, and indeed, it did go to 3.5GHz....


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b1gapl* 
Did anyone try the new 0608 BIOS yet?

On a side note, has anyone tried overclocking with all the voltages on auto? I read an article on this, and by putting all the voltages on auto, it went straight to 3.5GHz....I tried this, and indeed, it did go to 3.5GHz....

Bet you temps where really high.


----------



## b1gapl

It wasn't actually. Had the AC on.


----------



## Asce

With my CPU at 2.9 and my 8800 at 570/995 i get over 10k in 3D mark 06. Will be pushing for 3.2Ghz within the end of the week. And im not loading as high as i thought i was.


----------



## dpawl31

b1gapl.... that's because it gives excessive vcore.
You could max your vcore yourself and hit a nasty high OC...
But do you really want max vcore?









Asce 40C huh. W/ an HR-05?
I have stock NB with a 60mm fan, a 478 mobo heatsink w/ 40mm fan on the SB.
The SB one isn't even attached, just kind of resting on it.
And I don't go any higher that 32C idle... O_O

Someone do a botch job on your thermal paste? hehe...


----------



## Asce

That was on Asus Probe but i havent a clue on which reading from speedfan is the mobo temps.

The readings ive got from it are;
Temp1: 35C
Temp2:39C
Temp3: 25C
Temp1: 40C


----------



## dpawl31

you have to stress your system to see what temps are what.
Run Orthos... your CPU temp will go the highest, your mobo may go 1~2 up, and the other one could be hard drive or GPU or something else.


----------



## Asce

Well the Temps1 and 2 went up but still cant tell with it which. I believe Temp2 is the NB as thats gone up the most and dont forget the hr-05 doesnt have a fan on


----------



## Baked

Hey guys, I was wondering if I could find one of you with an Overclock around 356mhz or above on this board. I'm trying to get my E6600 to a stable 3.2ghz, but am having issues finding the right voltages.

Please post your voltages for a quick comparison.
I have,
CPU - 1.38175
1.2 HT - 1.25
NB - 1.4
SB 1.5
VVT - 1.4

Do any of these seem low, or high to you? I'm trying to run this overclock 24/7 so opinions are welcome!

Thanks for your time!


----------



## Asce

Is that 1.38175 with the +100mv?


----------



## Kopi

Baked you have the 680i, we have the 650i, its two different chipsets, but I'm sure we can help.

The NB and CPU look OK, not sure about the 6600 voltages though, they may need more than the e6300 series, they may need less.

Are you stable at those speeds?


----------



## Baked

Yeah I'm stable at 3ghz on those voltages. 3.2 is tricky.


----------



## Asce

Have you tried upping the Vcore a bit more.








Im idling at 28C but dont know my ambients


----------



## Baked

I could up the VCore to 1.41 or something and try that, but do you think that will be safe to run 24/7 for like 4 years?


----------



## Kopi

I ran my Pentium 4 at 1.6 vcore for 4 years, you'll be fine...


----------



## Baked

Sweet, Do you think its better to leave my motherboard voltages on auto? Or should I try and find a set place for each one?

Thanks again,
Baked


----------



## Asce

Manual is better, thats what i think.


----------



## Mussels

auto voltages crank it higher than you might need, therefore wasting power and causing more heat. auto is fine to start with, but tune it in when you get the chance to.


----------



## Kopi

Auto voltages go way over what you need them to be, manual is where its at.

Start at stock volts, overclock unitl you aren't stable, then raise the volts by .025 (1.325 --> 1.35) and try again. Go until that doesnt cut it and raise another .025. After you've found your max, tune it back down a little, maybe 1.345 or something instead of 1.35..little things like that count up to a couple ºc in the end


----------



## Asce

How far do you think my E6420 can go on a vcore of 1.31, as im now at 3.0Ghz (yes dpawl31, i am going to get to 3.2 soon)


----------



## Kopi

Ever chip is different, theres no way of telling really. So far you're undervolted aren't you, 1.325 being stock i believe? Takes me 1.35 volts to hit it on my e6300...so with your multi being a little higher I'm saying in the range of 1.325 - 1.35


----------



## Asce

Sweet, so i really dont have to put to much vcore through it to achieve a 3.2Ghz. This shows you how cool im running
Core1 - 27C
Core2 - 28C
with ambients of 21C


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I ran my Pentium 4 at 1.6 vcore for 4 years, you'll be fine...


Run a C2D at 1.6v on air and you'll kill it pretty quick.


----------



## pn0yb0i

I have this Motherboard, can any1 give me clock suggestions on a Pentium D 820? Highest I can get it is at 3.5Ghz @ 1000FSB. 1 more higher funky stuff happens.

What a good optimal clock for 533mhz 4-4-4-12 ? (Corsair ValuSelect 512 x 4)


----------



## Kai-

The Noctua NH-U6 HS works fine for the NB(Tight fit with a TT120), and the Zalman NB32k fits fine on the SB(Tight fit with a 8800GTS)


----------



## Asce

Arrr this thing wont post at 1600fsb even with a vcore of 1.37.


----------



## Kopi

You might just need vcore man..some chips require alot.


----------



## Asce

Thats not the biggest problem now. I keep crashing in BF2142 (full system lockup) and all ive done is up the vcore by about 0.04. And ive tried stock speeds aswell and it still did it


----------



## Kopi

Sounds like ram to me!


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Sounds like ram to me!


Its more like EA not doing their jobs. Now i can concentrate on getting this thing to post at 3.2Ghz


----------



## Delphi

Hey guys im going to be buying a new cooler for my cpu. I am wanting to get a Scythe Infinity, but i would like to no if it would fit on this mobo. Im pretty sure it will it s tuniq does but i would like a second opion.


----------



## Asce

Its should do and the Tuniq Tower will fit. You may need to be careful with the retaining bracket because of the 2 capacitors above the CPU socket.


----------



## Delphi

K thanks rep+ for you.


----------



## mth91

I'm considering a p5n-e for my next board, it's cheaper than the evga board I had been planning on, and I was wondering, if it supports 1333 FSB, does that mean it will support penryn? I was reading somewhere that the 600i chipsets (650i and 680i) will support it. Is is likely that that is true of this board?


----------



## Asce

I highly doubt it will support the 45nm CPU's and it does support the 1333FSB.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mth91* 
I'm considering a p5n-e for my next board, it's cheaper than the evga board I had been planning on, and I was wondering, if it supports 1333 FSB, does that mean it will support penryn? I was reading somewhere that the 600i chipsets (650i and 680i) will support it. Is is likely that that is true of this board?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I highly doubt it will support the 45nm CPU's and it does support the 1333FSB.

I don't think anyone knows for sure.
God, I am happy with my D, nevermind a C2Q when I get that.
Even if it does support peryn- I may not even get one.

BTW- Feisty + Beryl > Vista.
God, loving linux ATM!
[/OT]


----------



## Asce

Finally got it to post at 3.2Ghz and testing as i type. It looks like my load temps are going to be in the mid - high 40C's


----------



## Kai-

Mid to high 40's are np for c2d's.

55 is a 'safe' measure, but imo up to 60 is alright. Its not like your gonna have your cpu at full load 24/7


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kai-* 
Mid to high 40's are np for c2d's.

55 is a 'safe' measure, but imo up to 60 is alright. Its not like your gonna have your cpu at full load 24/7

Fold?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Fold?


Origami?








I'm such a loser









Yeah, foldin' oughtta max out your CPU for a while









But if you aren't going to fold (_why not?_) then you're ok.

I need to try and get the linux folding client going...
Anyone know if I have to be running a 64bit linux if I want SMP folding for linux? It says x86 64Bit only, but maybe just CPU support? (doubtful







)

*EDIT*
Doh, only 32 bit will work


----------



## Kai-

Well, he doesn't have a [email protected] postbit, so I assumed he doesn't [email protected]


----------



## dpawl31

Most people are too lazy to fold, nevermind get their postbit







hehe
I am trying to get it working in linux... but it keeps redoing the config O_O

Anybody here use the audio on this board, in Feisty? (Ubuntu)


----------



## The Pook

http://www.overclock.net/intel-gener...ml#post2400867

Roffs go me.

I'm the only person that can lap a CPU and kill a motherboard.









So uh, yeah. When I'm 100% sure it's my mobo and it's not anything else, I'll probably RMA, sell, get P5K -- or just RMA and keep if the FSB is better.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Hey Guys,

Currently running a C2D E6700 2.66 Ghz pushed with 1400 FSB value with 800 RAM and getting 3.5Ghz sitting idle. Currently I am letting the V-core get decided automatically and it is at 1.44v, but the thing is that my rig is running pretty cool idle at 32C on the CPU and 36C on the mainboard. I was initially thinking of bringing down the voltage because I know that the auto settings put the temperature up very high, but I don't see the point if my rig is staying this cool. Any ideas? Have I just not squeezed enough speed out of this thing yet? Is there more speed to get or should I play it safe and leave it at this point?


----------



## dpawl31

Hey! Welcome to OCN AND the best thread on it. HAHA.

I think you could definately get more out of that beast... I'd go for 4Ghz








You have a great multi, and a great chip. Let's do it, eh?

Cool may not be the point of you rig- but cool = > lifespan.
Same with voltage.
Get that bad boy manually set to 1.35v and +100mv ON, so you are 1.45v pre-vdroop.

I think you'll be plenty fine with that.
If it's stable, you can do 1 of two things. Go higher OC, or try lowering vcore more.

Welcome to OCN!


----------



## Euthanasiast

Thanks for the welcome!

I changed your settings and the end result seems (so far) to have lowered my MB temps by a degree. I'm running 1400 FSB value because when I tried it earlier at 1500 it blue screened on me post start up. Where should I look to bump her up a little more? When I attempteed to change the RAM to 1000 it wouldn't boot.

Now you know everything I know about her. I sure would appreciate some help. Thanks again.


----------



## dpawl31

I don't have time right this minute to walk you through it.
But I can tell you 1 degree in idle temp cut off could equal a few degrees in load temps, so that's a good thing









If nobody else can help you, I'll be back in a bit.


----------



## Kopi

Pop the Northbridge voltage to 1.5v for now...you'll need it. Try booting there and keep your Ram on Linked + Sync mode, thats the same thing as 1:1 which is what you want.


----------



## The Pook

....Sync mode is only available as linked. Unlinked is independent RAM. >__>


----------



## Kopi

Meant on linked or something...i can't remember what I meant...but i know thats what i meant is what you said...serious..


----------



## Euthanasiast

Alright, so after doing a little bit of research. Here's what I am planning to do when I get home:

Keeping in mind the RAM that I have and the 1:1 ratio that is needed (and according to something I saw on Tom's Hardware), I suppose I should shoot for setting my RAM to 1000Mhz and the clock at 500x4 (2000 total). Now according to Tom's, I might have to bring the clock on the CPU to 7x in order to accomplish that, and it looks like I'd HAVE to invest in a SB HS and a fan for the NB. My timings for the RAM say 5-5-5-15, but I'm not sure that I know much about how that all works. I assume the lower those numbers the faster the RAM.

Is there anything I am missing here?


----------



## Kopi

Nope you've got it down pretty well...I would suggest aftermarket heatsinks on the NB to all, just because its a 10 dollars well spent..or whatever you decide to spend. Whats the multi on the e6700?


----------



## Euthanasiast

Multiplier is the same as the others at 10x, the base clock speed of 2.66. Likely I can't get about 1600 on the FSB, so the RAM will not even need to be over clocked. We'll see.


----------



## Kopi

You're going to severly need to drop that multi...if you hit 500fsb on the 10x multi, you do the math...5ghz. Thats impossible unless under phase...realistically you're probably aiming for the high 3ghz marks, unless you have some cooling up your sleeve


----------



## Euthanasiast

I misunderstood your question. I thought you were asking what the multiplier was locked at, and I was answering 10x, which I did think was odd as you have a Conroe as well and would have known.

I was actually thinking of setting the multi at x9 and setting the FSB to 1600 so I could effectively leave the RAM at 800, giving me an effective 3.6Ghz, and then going from there. The trick is what to set the voltage at.


----------



## Kopi

Not all Core2Duo's have the same multiplier. Mine is 7x, but can be lowered to 6x.


----------



## The Pook

I might be leaving you guys soon.







/









I called up Asus yesterday and they said they would work on getting me a P5K Deluxe / P5K Vanilla as a replacement when I RMA my 650i. Hopefully I'll get a better max stable FSB.


----------



## Kopi

****.










I feel so betrayed.


----------



## Namrac

E6700 has a 10x multi.


----------



## Euthanasiast

I was of the understanding that all of the Core2's could be brought down to any value under 10, but not above. How do I determine the range of my multiplier? If 10 is the max height, what is the lowest?


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


****.










I feel so betrayed.


Nananananaaaaaaaaa.
*dances at 560FSB average*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Namrac*


E6700 has a 10x multi.


650i's only, noob. >.>


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Nananananaaaaaaaaa.
*dances at 560FSB average*


Nanananananaaaaaaaaaaa
*dances at 23c ambients*


----------



## dpawl31

Euthanasiast I suggest what you said yourself








9x Multi @ 400FSB and clock up from there, overclocking the RAM.
Oh and as far as C2D multis, I think they go like this:
6300 - 6/7
6400 - 7/8
6600 - 8/9
6700 - 9/10

I think the 6700 is fully unlocked, ie 6-7-8-9-10 but I could be 110% wrong on ALL of these numbers









Pook, good luck with that P5K, nice board.
I still think you had a flakey P5N anyway...

Namrac you are welcome here anytime, 650i or not.
Mainly because you harrass pook, and in the voice of borat...
"I likah that".


----------



## The Pook

Namrac is my twin.

Sibling rivalry, yo.

>.>


----------



## Euthanasiast

So, if I push the FSB up to 1440 (from 1400), effectively pushing from 3.5 to 3.6Ghz, then I'd need to manually set the RAM to 720 (down from 800) to get the 1:1 stability? What if I don't have any stability issues leaving it at 800?

This is assuming that I am stuck with the 10x multiplier, if I can go 9x then I certainly will go 9x at 400.

Thanks.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Pook You Cant Leave Us !


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*


Pook You Cant Leave Us !


I won't leave the topic until Kopi beats my Super Pi time at 488FSB. >.>


----------



## dpawl31

1600/4 = 400FSB
400x9Multi = 3.6Ghz
1:1 would be DDR2-800 on the RAM, which is stock.

My suggestions: try 1.35v vcore with +100mv, 1600FSB and 800DDR.
(400 quad pumped and 400 DDR)
I also suggest full manual. It helps you keep the numbers in your head








(enter 1600 and 800 yourself)


----------



## _^MeRcY

hey doug and pook , what do you guys think my max oc could be ? I want to reach at least 3.6 or above and im going to post my pics of my computer tonight hopefully


----------



## dpawl31

I assume the cpu cooler is a 9500 not a 5900








Also, gigabyte makes bad AND good cases, you should specify.
It will all depend on case cooling. What are your temps/vcore/nbvoltage @ right now? Idle/load for temps.
The 6600 is capable of some serious numbers, generally just stopped by cooling power.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


1600/4 = 400FSB
400x9Multi = 3.6Ghz
1:1 would be DDR2-800 on the RAM, which is stock.

My suggestions: try 1.35v vcore with +100mv, 1600FSB and 800DDR.
(400 quad pumped and 400 DDR)
I also suggest full manual. It helps you keep the numbers in your head








(enter 1600 and 800 yourself)


Right, but that's IF I can reduce the multiplier to 9. Otherwise I'll be stuck with 10x at 360FSB (1440 manually) and reducing the RAM to 720 (in order to get the 1:1--assuming it runs unstable), effectively losing some FSB on the RAM, unless I push further. Say, 1600 plus 800 on the RAM, which would equal 4Ghz, which I doubt is even possible, even with all the cooling I have.

I think I got it now.


----------



## dpawl31

Why couldn't you lower your multi?
If it's locked you are on a newer bios. I don't know if they fixed that issue with the _newest_ bios, but a few of the past ones have locked the multi.
The 04xx bios I believe was the last to allow multi change.
Oh and don't refer to ram speeds as FSB, lol, that'll just cause confusion








Underclocking RAM is not bad, you are just not using all of its speed. But, You would probably be stable to run 1440 and 800 RAM, it'll run a divider though and may not be exactly 800. You may bump the ram up to 810 815 or something to give you a better divider, the board allows for some wierd ones lol.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Case is a Gigabyte Poseidon
Current Temps at 46C with source and other running at
vcore and nbvoltage same one's Pook told me to use at, not sure exact as im on laptop at work. Its stable as of right now


----------



## dpawl31

OK when you get home, let me know.

Also, I need to know complete IDLE temps(CPU+MB), and LOAD temps via orthos or OCCT, or folding









Oh and MB temp = NB+SB/2 (mean or average)
So do you have a SB heatsink? Is your NB stock, and if so did you AS5 it?


----------



## _^MeRcY

rgr, ill be home, not sure LOL. You going to be home around 12am, 1am ?


----------



## dpawl31

I edited my last post, check that out.
Oh and you are in Texas, I'll be up 1am-ish here... in NH.


----------



## _^MeRcY

So do you have a SB heatsink? Is your NB stock, and if so did you AS5 it?
^^
My nb is stock, and i didnt get a SB heatsink, do i need one ?


----------



## _^MeRcY

ok 12 am cst = 1am NH time , ill be on then hopefully


----------



## dpawl31

Did you put AS5 on your NB? The stock crap is, well, crap. lol
As far as SB heatsink it depends on what FSB you are pushing, LDT frequency (talk to pookers) and especially case cooling. What is your fan setup in the case?


----------



## _^MeRcY

no i didnt put as5 on the nb i dont think.

Umm case cooling is basic, 
Link to Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811233006


----------



## The Pook

>.>
The NB isn't crap.








Some people just got crap ones. Most aren't.








I NEVER saw over 42C on mine even at 1.7v and loaded.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Did you put AS5 on your NB? The stock crap is, well, crap. lol


God, I hope I can do that without removing the MB from the case. I just dressed all those cables!

I'll check my Bios when I get home, but I think I read somewhere that multipliers were luck of the draw with dual cores. some weren't locked at all and you could set them as high as 14!


----------



## _^MeRcY

im confused, were you talking to enthusiast or me doug ....


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


I won't leave the topic until Kopi beats my Super Pi time at 488FSB. >.>


Heh.

I'm like, 18.0 at 3200mhz, stock timings, and no subtimings.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*


im confused, were you talking to enthusiast or me doug ....


He was talking to you, though I just interjected because I also hadn't upgraded to AS5 on my NB.

And it's EUTH AN ASIAST.


----------



## dpawl31

The Zalmans require lots of airflow for effective cooling...
Even the 9700 and yours in the smaller 9500









If you are pushing mid to high 40s in CSS... I'd hate to see your load temps right now. (ie folding/occt/orthos)

I'd try tuning your vcore down till its not stable for a solid load. (solid load...







)

Once you get to a lower vcore with a lower temp, try upping FSB some more. If it fails, try going back up some vcore.

Or heck, you could just try some more FSB @ current vcore. That 6600 is a monster... I think your goal should be to lower your multi to 8, go for 3.8Ghz (475*8) which would also give your RAM an overclock. Maybe boost your RAM to 1000... get that lil boost (after you reach 950 with 1:1 first)


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Heh.

I'm like, 18.0 at 3200mhz, stock timings, and no subtimings.


You can get 3 seconds outta that...


----------



## _^MeRcY

If i were to go for 3.8, with the multi at 8, whats exactly am i to do. I just want to hit AT LEAST 3.6 basically


----------



## The Pook

For the 50th time, we can't tell you EXACTLY what to do. Everything is different. You have to find out yourself.


----------



## _^MeRcY

no, im saying do i need to lower the vcore, nb, sb and such or just keep the voltages and play around with the fsb


----------



## The Pook

...use the lowest voltage you can while being stable.


----------



## dpawl31

3600/8 = 450FSB
3800/8 = 475FSB

Or you could stay @ 9 multi.
3600/9 = 400FSB
3800/9 = 422FSB

But, put it this way: you'll get better scores with a 3.6Ghz @ 450FSB than a 3.6Ghz with a 400FSB.
That's what's good about the lower multis... higher FSB for same clocks. But if your board is incapable of a high FSB (POOK! hah) then higher multis help you there, because you can get a higher clock speed.

The key is finding your highest FSB first, not highest clock speed.
You can use your lowest multi, get your MAX stable overclock on your FSB.
Then, switch to your higher multi and try to get to that same FSB.

PS - w00t for me and all my learning, even without a C2D... hehe.


----------



## _^MeRcY

ok, tonight ill try the x8 mutliplier , find max off that and then go over to the x9


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


You can get 3 seconds outta that...










Hopefully pookie..hopefully


----------



## dpawl31

Kopi...
Pook...

You two are so _cute_ together.

You go together, like, uh...
Milk and... mushrooms? er, cookies?


----------



## dpawl31

hahaha....

not








but


----------



## _^MeRcY

i got home early, i overclocked it to 3.6 but i ran orthos, it says some error as blah blah .5 needs to be .4 , anyone help. Speed fan is telling my Fan 1 = 44c and FAN2 = 46C

[ Orthos Stopped ]
Type: Blend - stress CPU and RAM Min: 8 Max: 4096 InPlace: No Mem: 1790 Time: 15
CPU: 3543MHz FSB: 394MHz [442MHz x 8.0 est.]
CPU: 3543MHz FSB: 394MHz [442MHz x 8.0 est.]
7/8/2007 6:27 AM
Launching 2 threads...
Using CPU #0
Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
Press Stop to end this test.
Test 1, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922945 using 1024K FFT length.
Test 2, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19922943 using 1024K FFT length.
Test 3, 4000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M19374367 using 1024K FFT length.
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Torture Test ran 7 minutes 59 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.
Specs -
FSB - 1600
Vcore - 1.50
Memory - 2.259
North Bridge - 1.563


----------



## The Pook

dpawl and bad jokes....

Goes together like dpawl and bad jokes.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


dpawl and bad jokes....

Goes together like dpawl and bad jokes.











How do you know policemen are strong?
Because they can hold up traffic.


----------



## The Pook

dpawl and Kopi walk into a bar.
You would thought one of them would've seen it.









>.>


----------



## dpawl31

Ba-ZING!
Kopi and Pook walk into a bar...
And they leave holding hands.


----------



## Kai-

@ mercy, raise the cpu voltage a little. Continue to do this until it is at least 30 mins orthos stable. 1.5 is the max voltage that I would recommend, and about 60° is the max temp.

edit - lol didn't see you already have it on 1.5

Maybe your chip is just a bad week. Bad luck on that.

Lower cpu speed until it is stable. Unless you wanna go up to 1.53 or something like that


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Ba-ZING!
Kopi and Pook walk into a bar...
And they leave holding hands.









Keep it on the DL, yo.


----------



## Kai-

Hm, since I haven't actually shared my super exciting oc'ing adventures with you guys yet, I suppose I'll start now.

Well, yesterday I decided to do a 3.8ghz benchmark run with 1.55 volts lol. The ambient temps were way low - 16-17°ish, so I didn't have to worry about temps.

3.8 @ 1.55v isn't orthos stable AT ALL. like it instantly errors. 3dmark 06 also near instantly errors. But fear not, I still got some nice superpi 1mil and everest cpuqueen benchmarks, so its ok









SuperPi 1 Million - 13.625 seconds
Everest CPUQueen - 7712

I had cpu v at 1.55, ram v at 2.1(Or whatever is closest to 2.1, I think its 2.08), NB v at 1.56(Or the one close to that)

Pity my ram sucks major balls, the max stable oc it gets is only 850ddr. NOTHING I do will make it go above that. Loosened the timings to 6-6-6-18, no luck at all. Major sadsauce-ness

EDIT: Well I was screwing around in my case just before, and thought what the heck, I'll swap the ram slots. So I changed the ram slots from the black to the yellow slots, and what do ya know? It booted first time at ddr 856. So I'm currently testing how high its gonna go.


----------



## Asce

Mercy, somwhere in your BIOS you can change the LDT. Change it to 4 and try again, if it doesnt work try 3.

How do i get SuperPI to work?


----------



## Kai-

Download Super Pi 1.5 mod extract it anywhere, then run the exe. Choose how much Pi you want to go to (1 million and 32 million are used as the benchmark standards), then press ok a few times. Then post it here to increase ep33n size


----------



## Asce

Will try it when i get home, if my internet is back up.


----------



## SkyGate

Hiya...

Just got my system up...

P5N-E SLI
E6600
OCZ FLX XLC (PC2 9200 2x1G)
Water Block - CPU, SB
Fan with NC-U6 on NB -> could not mount decent water block on NB die - its a real pig - any movement with hose fittings and block moves off 'die' thus kills any good thermal contact - the NC-06 with forced air works well









Currently running @ 3.4 with FSB 1512 
Vcore = 1.55 (don't like this - but its lowest setting to give rock solid stability - ORTHO for 1 hour +)
Vmem = 1.9x
Vnb = 1.5x

Mem clock @ 1000 (unlinked) running default timing 5-5-5-18

I can see that hitting 3.4 is not difficult (from other posts) - but my figures are way off for the KIT - the fact that I need Vcore ot 1.5+ for stability - makes me think I am doing something wrong here









Idealy my target is 3.6 - but I cannot get it stable - even with such high Vcore

Any suggestions would be welcome ...

Cheers


----------



## Kopi

Maybe some more ram volts, the OCZ series seems to like 2 or move volts, mine are stock at 2.1 and for 1000 mhz maybe you should give a run at 2.1v or something near it.


----------



## dpawl31

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...lexxlc_edition

Stock RAM volts for that RAM is 2.3v (O_O!)
But that's for 1150Mhz (no overclocking RAM till you hit 575FSB... with 1:1, that's AWESOME. lol)
Anyway, I would say start w/ 2.3v on the RAM, and run 1:1.
Use full manual control, couple people on here insist sync isn't exactly 1:1, but I believe it is, I think people just get confused with the speed it shows, and the actual speed it works out to (depends on FSB#)


----------



## GunZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SkyGate* 
Hiya...

Just got my system up...

P5N-E SLI
E6600
OCZ FLX XLC (PC2 9200 2x1G)
Water Block - CPU, SB
Fan with NC-U6 on NB -> could not mount decent water block on NB die - its a real pig - any movement with hose fittings and block moves off 'die' thus kills any good thermal contact - the NC-06 with forced air works well









Currently running @ 3.4 with FSB 1512
Vcore = 1.55 (don't like this - but its lowest setting to give rock solid stability - ORTHO for 1 hour +)
Vmem = 1.9x
Vnb = 1.5x

Mem clock @ 1000 (unlinked) running default timing 5-5-5-18

I can see that hitting 3.4 is not difficult (from other posts) - but my figures are way off for the KIT - the fact that I need Vcore ot 1.5+ for stability - makes me think I am doing something wrong here









Idealy my target is 3.6 - but I cannot get it stable - even with such high Vcore

Any suggestions would be welcome ...

Cheers

I'm running my C2D E6600 @ 3.6Ghz.









ASUS P5N-E SLI Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4Ghz @ 3.6Ghz
Zalman 9700 LED CPU Cooler
2Gb G.Skill DDR2 800 @ 900 (F2-6400PHU2-2GBHZ)
FSB: 1800.
CPU Multiple: 8.
LTD: 3x.
Memory Linked, Sync mode.
RAM Ratio: 1:1.
vcore: 1.45.
NB: 1.393.
vdimm: 2.085; +100mv.
CPU Idle/Load: 44-45c/57-59c.








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=215951

I was originally runnning with Crucial Ballistix DDR2 1000, but had nothing but problems with it. I've been using the G.Skill for about a month now. No errors in Memtest or Orthos. The load temps may seem a little high, but it is only that high when running benchmarks. When playing games (Fear, etc.) for a couple of hours it rarely goes over 52c. I believe what made the biggest difference was running it in sync mode with a 1:1 ratio.

I hope this helps. I couldn't have gotten this far without all of the excellent tips this forum has provided.

GunZ


----------



## Rapid_Eraser

Has anyone tried to overclock a Q6600 with this board flashed with the latest bios (0608)?
I read in XS that it improves the overclock and i would like to have some confirmation of that, it would be great if it could do 350~360x9.
Thanks alot


----------



## The Pook

Well, I'll be back on the P5N boat with you sorry bastards (







) again. Asus went all "OMG EMO" and won't let me dub out for a P5K.

So I'll be getting a refurb P5N board back that someone probably RMAed because it won't get over 450FSB or something.









So, 40 minutes on hold to be told I would get a P5K, then another 30 minutes on hold to be told no.

Lame ****.


----------



## _^MeRcY

anyone here play source professionally ?


----------



## SkyGate

Hey ... thanks for your suggestions ... most welcome 

Unfortunately still having problems...

First of all - should have specified that am using latest ASUS bios 0608

Currently have very stable system @3.4 unlinked [email protected] [email protected] with 5-4-4-15 2T timing

Vcore=1.5 with +100mv offset for Vdrop (really bad with this board as it varies almost .1v at load - goes to 1.5 - no load almost 1.58 :w00t:

Tried the x8 with 1800 FSB and 900 MEM - does not even want to post at these settings - I think the memory is fine at this speed - the E6600 should be also - so must be the MB - very strange :-(

I am envy your low Vcore - WOW perhaps your CPU came from a good batch of E6600's - don't know how to read batch num from box label? but can say it was packed on 04/20/2007

Anyway - still trying to get lower Vcore with good stability - but running out of ideas. Thought that using the OCZ FLX XLC (PC2 9200 2x1G) would help stay clear of any mem problems - but perhaps this was not best choice for THIS board - I heard that ASUS has not tweeked the best timings (NB registers via bios) for this RAM from OCZ forums - but the brute speed of this mem is good enough to cope with whatever you throw at it. Under ideal conditions it has been clocked at 1250 rock solid.

So - either a bad batch of E6600's OR ASUS bios problem OR simply MB slightly out of spec (or should I say in spec from ASUS point of view) for overclocking :-(

... hmmm


----------



## GunZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SkyGate*


Hey ... thanks for your suggestions ... most welcome 

Unfortunately still having problems...

First of all - should have specified that am using latest ASUS bios 0608

Currently have very stable system @3.4 unlinked [email protected] [email protected] with 5-4-4-15 2T timing

Vcore=1.5 with +100mv offset for Vdrop (really bad with this board as it varies almost .1v at load - goes to 1.5 - no load almost 1.58 :w00t:

Tried the x8 with 1800 FSB and 900 MEM - does not even want to post at these settings - I think the memory is fine at this speed - the E6600 should be also - so must be the MB - very strange :-(

I am envy your low Vcore - WOW perhaps your CPU came from a good batch of E6600's - don't know how to read batch num from box label? but can say it was packed on 04/20/2007

Anyway - still trying to get lower Vcore with good stability - but running out of ideas. Thought that using the OCZ FLX XLC (PC2 9200 2x1G) would help stay clear of any mem problems - but perhaps this was not best choice for THIS board - I heard that ASUS has not tweeked the best timings (NB registers via bios) for this RAM from OCZ forums - but the brute speed of this mem is good enough to cope with whatever you throw at it. Under ideal conditions it has been clocked at 1250 rock solid.

So - either a bad batch of E6600's OR ASUS bios problem OR simply MB slightly out of spec (or should I say in spec from ASUS point of view) for overclocking :-(

... hmmm



What kind of temps are you getting, and did you try lowering the LTD?


----------



## SkyGate

Using Core Temp 0.95 (BTW - its crash prone when running ORTHO)

Idle 25
Load 42 (Ortho)

LTD currently at 3

- not sure if my Vcore is reported correctly - what monitor do you recommend - been using SpeedFan - however after dropping Vcore from 1.5 to 1.4 (not stable at this level) - SpeedFan still shows Vcore at 1.5 - this is strange ??


----------



## dpawl31

I believe coretemp 95 causes false instablity and you should revert to 94.
I could be wrong, but I think that's the case.


----------



## GunZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SkyGate*


Using Core Temp 0.95 (BTW - its crash prone when running ORTHO)

Idle 25
Load 42 (Ortho)

LTD currently at 3

- not sure if my Vcore is reported correctly - what monitor do you recommend - been using SpeedFan - however after dropping Vcore from 1.5 to 1.4 (not stable at this level) - SpeedFan still shows Vcore at 1.5 - this is strange ??


That is strange. I use SpeedFan also. At idle with Vcore at 1.45, SpeedFan indicates 1.44-1.47. I wish I had your temps, I could probably hit 4GHz...


----------



## Kai-

What does altering the LDT multi do? I see that term thrown around abit, but I don't recall an explaination on what it actually does.

Thanks in advance.

PS - Dprawl if your reading this, add the Noctua NC-U6 NB heatsink to the good NB HS list. Oh, and the Zalman NB32K heatsink for the good SB HS list


----------



## Kopi

Add the 9700nt to that list Dpawl, for CPU, as well as the Thermaltake V-1, and scythe infinity


----------



## Ceedub

Hey folks! I joined Overclock.net yesterday evening after finding it while chasing a link to a new version of Orthos.

Boy am I glad I did!









Late in January 2007 I jumped ship from AMD and decided to go with a C2D platform for my next gaming rig. I eventually settled on an Asus P5N-E SLI, E-6400, Thermalright SI-128, EVGA GeForce 8800-GTS, Team Xtreem (2x1GB) DDR-2 667MHz. 3-3-3-8 RAM, and an Antec Neo HE550 PSU.

I guess you could say I'm a part-time overclocker. Going as I did from AMD (over six years) to Intel there was a great deal of unfamiliar territory. I hooked up with a different OC site which proved to be...less than helpful...and eventually put overclocking on the back burner again. I got to the point where I could get a relatively stable OC to 3.2 GHz but hit a wall there. Also it wasn't totally stable, which wasn't acceptable. So I reset everything back to stock speeds and lived with that.

But I'm an OCer at heart, and I didn't spend all those hours researching components, adding noisy fans, and buying aftermarket coolers just to run at stock! The OC bug has bitten me once again!









Hopefully within the next few days I will have read this whole thread. I'm sure a lot of my questions will have been already answered. I'll also work on updating my profile and sig so you have a better idea of my system (though I did cover the basics here).

Anyway, as this is getting pretty long already I'll close by saying that I look forward to spending time here on Overclock.net (when I can pry myself away from Lord of the Rings Online







) and meeting more of you.


----------



## Asce

Have fun readdy all the pages







. Im a total newb to overclocking but a little bit of knowledge can go a long way. Can you fill in your system specs in your user cp.


----------



## Ceedub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Have fun readdy all the pages







. Im a total newb to overclocking but a little bit of knowledge can go a long way. Can you fill in your system specs in your user cp.


Done!


----------



## Asce

What OC are you aiming for?


----------



## Ceedub

I really don't have a specific goal in mind as far as a number. I'm more the type that likes to find out why stuff works and why other stuff doesn't work. I guess though, if pressed, I'd like to run at 3.2GHz rock-solid stable. And then just see how much further I can get from there.


----------



## Kai-

cool Ceedub, always nice to help a new overclocker along.

If you ever run into any troubles with your comp, don't hesitate to post here and ask about it


----------



## Asce

Ceedub, bit like me atm but i am going to go back to 2.9 and see if that helps my hangup issues when shutting down.


----------



## SkyGate

Just had a thought ... perhaps the PSU needs a little more juice?

Using CORSAIR HX550W (modular)
Currently the system has minimal components ...

WD 1600JS
Leadtek 7800GT Extream
Antec 180

Given the above low power requirement the stability of this 520W PSU should be Vgood ...

Noticed that SpeedFan is reporting -16.80V for the -12V rail and -8.53V for te -5V rail ?? which is really strange??

Here are the voltages at IDLE

Vcore1: 1.58v
Vcore2: 3.36v (what is this?)
+3.3v: 0.00v
+5v: 4.81v
+12v: 11.97v

All look pretty strange - or is it SpeedFan??

.. hmmm

If the above figures ARE correct - might need a new PSU :-(


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GunZ* 
That is strange. I use SpeedFan also. At idle with Vcore at 1.45, SpeedFan indicates 1.44-1.47. I wish I had your temps, I could probably hit 4GHz...


Believe it or not I had better figures with my air setup - Zelman 9700 - got figures as low as 22 at IDLE - the Antec 180 helps with the Zelman - there is a big FAN immediately behind the 9700 exhaust - so it gives a great pull-through - all fans on MAX give me great temp figures.

The NB - which has an NC-U6 is aided by the 9700 - since its just in front and the pull through of the 9700's fan causes massive air to go through the NC-06 - the NB is hardly warm - even under load









The bad news is that with the above set-up the noise level is not good









So fitted a water block instead of the 9700 - temps did go up (not as good as air since the room temp here is already 23-25) - but its blistfully quiet. Put a small 80mm fan in front of the NC-U6 - this is quiet and does the job well.

BTW the NC-06 without forced air on the NB is good but you can loose up to 10+ deg by simply blowing low velocity air through it









Finally have been using Zelman ZM STG1 thermal grease - don't know how it rates against AS5 though









... hope the above helps you get your tems down


----------



## dpawl31

All this talk about voltages in speedfan - forget them








Voltages from software are not accurate, and _can_ be _way_ off.

Ceedub, welcome to the club. (that rhymed...







)

Enjoy reading the thread, lol.
You _will_ learn a lot.
But you will also get quite a few laughs out of it. haha.
If not for bad jokes, you'll get your kicks from how amazing _strange_ we all are.

Oh, and whilst reading, skip every post Kopi and Pook make.
They're just









haha jk... two of our clubs "senior members", and now Pookie Pie and hangin' around because Asus is stickin' him with a _refurb!_ haha.









Enjoy, and welcome to the thread/club/OCN/best web community ever!


----------



## Asce

Your our sith lord, aint you Dpawl







And they just have to look at my sig to see how crazy Kopi is.


----------



## russbelluk

wot is the best way to cool this mobo's northbridge, on idle its about 38C idle, i know thats okay but as i'm running SLi now i would like to knock off a few degrees off that as i game it does creep up quite a bit,

i've tried putting a 40mm fan on the nb which made no difference, also replace thermal paste with AS5 again no difference.

i've got a few choices for u lot to look at http://www.leftclicks.co.uk/home.php...category_id=70 possibly lookin at the thermaltake one or first coolermaster one.

cheers guys


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GunZ* 
I'm running my C2D E6600 @ 3.6Ghz.









ASUS P5N-E SLI Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4Ghz @ 3.6Ghz
Zalman 9700 LED CPU Cooler
2Gb G.Skill DDR2 800 @ 900 (F2-6400PHU2-2GBHZ)
FSB: 1800.
CPU Multiple: 8.
LTD: 3x.
Memory Linked, Sync mode.
RAM Ratio: 1:1.
vcore: 1.45.
NB: 1.393.
vdimm: 2.085; +100mv.
CPU Idle/Load: 44-45c/57-59c.








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=215951

I was originally runnning with Crucial Ballistix DDR2 1000, but had nothing but problems with it. I've been using the G.Skill for about a month now. No errors in Memtest or Orthos. The load temps may seem a little high, but it is only that high when running benchmarks. When playing games (Fear, etc.) for a couple of hours it rarely goes over 52c. I believe what made the biggest difference was running it in sync mode with a 1:1 ratio.

I hope this helps. I couldn't have gotten this far without all of the excellent tips this forum has provided.

GunZ


I can't seem to get mine to work like that, and I have basically the same setup as you, yet I have the e6700. I have the same case and just about the same RAM. I bumped up the voltage to where you had yours and I am waiting to see if it can get through the OCCT test (I never pass a TORTURE TEST). Is there anything else you are doing that you haven't listed that I might be able to take advantage of? I am trying to get her stable at 3.6GHZ, but would settle for a rock solid 3.5 at this point. I figure since my processor is slightly faster, I should be able to get at least the speed you have, correct? If I duplicate your settings, and have all of the same equipment as you right down to the case, then logic dictates that I should be able to get similar results, correct?


----------



## dpawl31

Not correct. lol








Batch/week numbers etc are a key factor, so maybe he has a good e6600 and you have a so-so e6700. Sucks that they can't just get them all on par, huh?


----------



## GunZ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast*


I can't seem to get mine to work like that, and I have basically the same setup as you, yet I have the e6700. I have the same case and just about the same RAM. I bumped up the voltage to where you had yours and I am waiting to see if it can get through the OCCT test (I never pass a TORTURE TEST). Is there anything else you are doing that you haven't listed that I might be able to take advantage of? I am trying to get her stable at 3.6GHZ, but would settle for a rock solid 3.5 at this point. I figure since my processor is slightly faster, I should be able to get at least the speed you have, correct? If I duplicate your settings, and have all of the same equipment as you right down to the case, then logic dictates that I should be able to get similar results, correct?


G.Skill has a Tech in the Xtreme Systems Forum. I set my memory timings _exactly _as listed in this post for G.Skill memory running on the P5N-E:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=132494

Good luck!


----------



## Euthanasiast

Working five by five now. I ran stress test a couple of times and I have it looking stable so far at 3.6Ghz. Ran a few Lightwave test renders and played vanguard completely maxed out. Looking good. My voltage had to go up to 1.45 and I am thinking of slowly walking it back down until I start getting trouble so I can find that sweet spot.

Top temp under load doesn't exceed 49c!


----------



## dpawl31

Good plan.









Good work BTW, what'd you do to get it more stable?


----------



## Kai-

To whoever asked for a good NB cooler, I recommend this one: http://www.leftclicks.co.uk/userimgs...set_cooler.htm I put one of those on my NB, and the drop in temp was really noticable.


----------



## russbelluk

that was me cheers


----------



## Ceedub

Thanks for the nice welcome guys!

The voltages that y'all were talking 'bout a few pages back--the vcore that speedfan was reading and showing a large fluctuation--I noticed that my board showed a HUGE fluctuation on cpu-z's reporting of vcore as well after I read that. Without even going into Orthos (computer just sitting at idle running background programs and web browser) the voltage would change by as much as 0.2xx volts!! I managed to get more stable by bumping up vcore a couple notches in bios so that when the vdroop occurs it won't pull it down so far as to cause instability...but that's really frustrating to have to overvolt the cpu simply to compensate for vdroop (or whatever the voltage irregularity is called).

Anyway, I just thought I'd pass that along.


----------



## b1gapl

Hey guys, I tried flashing the BIOS, with the Award BIOS Flash Utility...When I booted into DOS, with the boot disk, I got the A> prompt. Switched the bootable with the floppy containing the BIOS and utility. I typed awdflash, but it keeps repeating the A> prompt. On top it said something like "Type the name of the something interpreter e.g. <C:\\WINDOWS\\something\\something.com>" Can anyone help?


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


Hey guys, I tried flashing the BIOS, with the Award BIOS Flash Utility...When I booted into DOS, with the boot disk, I got the A> prompt. Switched the bootable with the floppy containing the BIOS and utility. I typed awdflash, but it keeps repeating the A> prompt. On top it said something like "Type the name of the something interpreter e.g. <C:\\WINDOWS\\something\\something.com>" Can anyone help?


The problem you are having is switching the disk with the one you booted from - when you access the new disk - the system wants to find command.com and it cant - cause you removed the disk.

What you are trying to do is not the best way...

Create a bootable floppy and the put the flash utility on it as well as the bios binary - that the recommended way - and it works









... hope this hekps you out


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Good plan.









Good work BTW, what'd you do to get it more stable?


Honestly it was just a matter of upping the voltage by a great deal. Now I have to walk it back down slowly and hope I can maintain performance. (I set it on the MB for 1.45v but ASUS Probe shows it alot higher--which is correct?) I suppose I am running true 1:1 in that I didn't sync the RAM to the processor but I did set the FSB to 1600(400x4) and since I am running the RAM at 800 that would match it up. All of the RAM timings are set manually and I mean ALL of them.

Problem is, even at this speed with a 8800GTS OC 320meg video card I can't max out Vanguard with all the eye candy without bumping resolution down to 1024x768. I suppose I need a better(?) video card with more RAM for the higher resolutions. Sheesh.


----------



## SkyGate

Are there any mods for the MB to 'fix' the Vdrop - its a pity that such a great board has such a lousy Vdrop :-(


----------



## GunZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SkyGate* 
Are there any mods for the MB to 'fix' the Vdrop - its a pity that such a great board has such a lousy Vdrop :-(

vdroop mod: http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=4450&s=12


----------



## Euthanasiast

So, since the Asus Probe software isn't completely reliable, is anyone using Core Temp to check for temperatures? And just what IS the limit in Centigrade for a processor before it is in danger of suffering damage? Isit 55c? 60?

Core Temp: http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/


----------



## Kopi

Core temp version .94 is the best and most stable way to measure temps, its what I and almost all of us on here use. I like to keep my processors below 50c personally, but they can handle up to 65c. After that, worry!


----------



## Asce

Kopi, the thermal threshold of the E6*** range is 60.1°c, while the Quads are around the 65°c mark


----------



## Euthanasiast

Looks like it might be time to add a fan somewhere. Before I started using Core Temp I was using Probe and getting absolute max temps (when rendering in Lightwave) of 49C and around 45-45c when gaming. Now with Core Temp my gaming pushes one of the cores as high as 51c. I shudder to think what rendering is going to do to her.


----------



## Kai-

I belive the G0 stepping cpus have the thermal threshold higher than the previous stepping cpus.

@ above poster, test out max temps with orthos or something like that.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast*


Now with Core Temp my gaming pushes one of the cores as high as 51c.










Hell i was defragging, installing a game and listening to music and only got to 50Â°c


----------



## Asce

Hey guys, my rig keeps blue screening every so often. It normally does it when i go to log into windows the first time and then a few minutes after ive gone into windows but its fine after that. Any ideas on how to sort it?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Hey guys, my rig keeps blue screening every so often. It normally does it when i go to log into windows the first time and then a few minutes after ive gone into windows but its fine after that. Any ideas on how to sort it?


Are you stable? O_O
Doesn't sound like it.
I have NEVER got a blue screen on this board... last BSOD I had was back, oh, 15 years ago when I was 9 O_O

So I am not even positive of what it represents - but I believe it is a memory thing?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Kopi, the thermal threshold of the E6*** range is 60.1°c, while the Quads are around the 65°c mark











Intel may say that, but theres so much speculation on the exact numbers, 60c is fine.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*









Hell i was defragging, installing a game and listening to music and only got to 50Â°c


Yeah, but this is *Vanguard*.


----------



## MotoGeek

Hey anyone know why my mobo temps are hight at 57C? I know ithe temp is NB+SB/2, but I believe it should be in the mid 40s at best...

I just put on a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the NB, and a Thermalright HR-05-SLI on the SB....Could they be miss seated some how? I used AS5...

I am at 3ghz right now, I just bumped my FSB up to 334 and it was stable so I left the machine alone, do I need to do anything else?


----------



## Christiaan

I'd say make sure they are making good contact. I never even reach 35 and I use the stock heatsink with no fan even. Looks like a reseat is in order.









Oh and I have 4 RAMsinks (the ones you put on a graphics card's RAM) on my SB.


----------



## MotoGeek

Thanks.

I reseated it but cant get the left side of the sync tight because of the hole location...goofy...Would it be stupid to put the stock HS back on, at 3-3.5ghz?

I Just tried to boot but now I dont for some reason...This is retarted, cleared bios, everything is connected...

My last P5N-E SLI ended up with a currupt bios...maybe my grounds are screwed or something?


----------



## Simonraical

Hi. I am looking to buy an ASUS SLI mobo, and came across this thread. I know the differences between the 650 and 680 chipsets, but i was wondering how much of a difference on performance there is?


----------



## dpawl31

You may be able to push a chip a bit higher on a 680 board as they tend to push a bit higher FSB, but honestly the FSB range on this board is plenty for most people. > 450 for sure, and somtimes capable of up to 515fsb.
As far as performance - with equal overclocks on each board they are nearly identical, in fact sometimes the 650i comes out on top in some tests (ie 1-2 fps more etc)


----------



## Blizzie

Hello everyone,

I've built my new system a few weeks ago, and in the process I've spent quite a lot of time reading about cooling, components, overclocking, etc. Since I've read/heard from a lot of people that this board is really great at overclocking.. I thought I'd come ask for some help. I've read tons of articles from many sites but I decided I should ask for step by step instructions since it's my first time.

Here's a picture of my current system. I have the Corsair 2 GB RAM running at 4-4-4-12. A little below the recommended 2.1V cause it didn't have it on the mobo. 

http://files.blizzie.info/comp/SpecsTest.PNG

My system specifications are listed there, with CPU-Z details. The RAM is completely stable.. I don't have a fan "yet" besides the stock one that came with the E6600. (Don't know if I can squeeze out $60, hehe..) I don't plan on overclocking much, just push the CPU to up around 2.8 or maybe 3.0? If the stock cooler will hold? Southbridge; I have a Zalman ZM-NB47J heatsink on, heat shouldn't be a problem there.. but the Northbridge *looks at it*

So can anyone help? Sorry if I'm asking too much at once.

Edit: How to I find out North/Southbridge temperature?

Edit2: Pushed the E6600 2.4 GHz to a 2.6.. Bus of 289.0 MHz.. It won't go any furthur. Hm.. I tried 2.7 GHz but it wouldn't boot normally. *runs Orthos and Prime95* Mm.. crashed.. Hm... Had to restore BIOS to default. It's been a long night. xD I think I'm done with this stuff for now.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Are you stable? O_O
Doesn't sound like it.
I have NEVER got a blue screen on this board... last BSOD I had was back, oh, 15 years ago when I was 9 O_O

So I am not even positive of what it represents - but I believe it is a memory thing?

I think that is the problem as ive been running it at 2.8 without a problem


----------



## hsma

I'm new to overclocking and I was wondering if anyone could help me overclock my new computer. Everything is at stock speeds right now. I tried to overclock but I guess I was doing it wrong and it kept restarting on me and sometimes didn't even start windows. Right now its at 5% AI OC. Had to do this because computer was crashing alot, but after the AI OC its stable. Kind of weird.

IntelÂ® Coreâ„¢ 2 Duo E6600 CPU @ 2.5GHz
CoolerMaster Liquid CPU Cooling System
650i SLI Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
2GB PC6400 DDR2/800 Dual Channel Memory Mushkin Xtreme w/ Heat Spreader
8800 GTX 764MB

I've been in the bios a couple times, so I'm sort of familair where everything is. I was hoping someone could help me OC this to 3.0ghz. Nothin too extreme. Also is it okay to have idle temps around 39C? From what i've read people seem to be having mid 20's to mid 30's on stock. Thank you


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hsma* 
I'm new to overclocking and I was wondering if anyone could help me overclock my new computer. Everything is at stock speeds right now. I tried to overclock but I guess I was doing it wrong and it kept restarting on me and sometimes didn't even start windows. Right now its at 5% AI OC. Had to do this because computer was crashing alot, but after the AI OC its stable. Kind of weird.

IntelÂ® Coreâ„¢ 2 Duo E6600 CPU @ 2.5GHz
CoolerMaster Liquid CPU Cooling System
650i SLI Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
2GB PC6400 DDR2/800 Dual Channel Memory Mushkin Xtreme w/ Heat Spreader
8800 GTX 764MB

I've been in the bios a couple times, so I'm sort of familair where everything is. I was hoping someone could help me OC this to 3.0ghz. Nothin too extreme. Also is it okay to have idle temps around 39C? From what i've read people seem to be having mid 20's to mid 30's on stock. Thank you


To answer your temperature question.. At the moment my E6600 runs at 27 C for each core. I have an Antec Nine Hundred Case with 3 120mm and a 200 mm. No extra fans. Stock fan/heatsink on CPU.


----------



## hsma

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
To answer your temperature question.. At the moment my E6600 runs at 27 C for each core. I have an Antec Nine Hundred Case with 3 120mm and a 200 mm. No extra fans. Stock fan/heatsink on CPU.


What reasons can there be for my CPU to be so hot? Im using speed fan to see my temperatures.
I also have the CoolerMaster Stacker 830 Tower case.


----------



## Blizzie

I've seen people say that 40s Idle are normal.. But to me it's too high for comfort. Try using Core Temp (Google it) and see what your readings are on that.

Could be a case where your heatsink isn't correctly placed..


----------



## hsma

So can anyone help me OC my c2d e6600 to atleast 3.0ghz?


----------



## Kopi

Sure can HSMA.

First of all those temps are OK, but for watercooling I'd expect alot better. First off, set all your memory timings and voltages manually. The box they came in should tell you what you need but 5-5-5-12 2t is always a good place to start.

From there, set your voltages. Ram should be anywhere from 1.8-2.2 depending on your ram. Set the CPU at 1.35 volts (vcore). Set your Northbridge voltage to 1.4 for now, and you may need 1.5, this will be determined later. From there, put the FSB up to a number like 1333mhz. This should give you your desired 3ghz. If that does not work, try bumping your Vcore to 1.375 and so on.


----------



## Delphi

Hey guys, i am haveing problems ocing my e4300.

I can reach 2.7ghz easy on it, with 1200bus speed, at 1.293vcore, or 1.28 due to droop. I can even go to 1210 bus even at 1.4 vcore

I not even touching my memory so its at stock, with timmings 4,4,4,12, and 2t

ive dropped the ldt to 4x, and even 3x to get it up. So can any of you guys help me? I no my week is pretty decent at ocing from what i have seen from others.

Thanks guys for the help








I also have the latest bios 0608

Also here is my cpuz screen shots for you



Edit: I also have my Northbridge at 1.5v aswell.


----------



## Delphi

Anyone??? Please help guys


----------



## Blizzie

*looks at Delphi's Overclock* You kept the RAM unlinked from the Bus. It wouldn't be a problem if I overclock my E6600 to 3.0 GHz but keep the RAM at 400 MHz and 4-4-4-12-2T right? The ratio is all weird now..


----------



## Delphi

It still does the same thing at a 1:1 ratio aswell. Geeze where dpawl he seems to no these boards really well. So i dont belive it is the ram thats afecting it.


----------



## dpawl31

I am here, I am here. NO worries. hah.
So... from what I gather, you can't hit 1210 w/ 1.4vcore, even with LDT @ 4/3 + 1.5v NB...
Even with 1:1, eh?

My suggestions?
Suicide shot, and use +100mv.
I'd say:
LDTx4
1333FSB, 667 RAM (1:1)
Turn +100mv on.
1.35v vcore.
1.5v NB

i think that'll getcha to 3Ghz.
I think you might be at the beginning of a fsb hole, I am not sure where they are.
Also, vdroop is eased a little with the +100mv option ON.

Good luck!


----------



## Delphi

OMG DPAWL you are my god!!!!!! It worked, must have been a hole as you suggested. Now i just have to lower my vcore to make it cooler because its 30c in my room, and im 7c above that on my idle and i go up to 60 on load!

But thanks a million , and if i could i would rep you a million!!

Just gotta tweak it so i get sub 20seconds

Heres the screen


----------



## Kopi

Well done Dpawl! REP+ on your efforts!


----------



## Blizzie

Can anyone help me with which fan fits without modding? Look here:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-air-c...p5n-e-sli.html


----------



## Christiaan

Look on the first page. We have a list of CPU coolers and NB/SB coolers that fit on the board.









I use PC Wizard 2007 to check the motherboard temp, aka NB/SB. Some speculation as to how it gets to the number. We seem to agree it's NB+SB/2.

*edit*

Looked at the other thread more. Software voltage reading is faulty most of the time. Don't trust it.


----------



## dpawl31

All'z I gotta say is...
w00t.







hehe


----------



## Asce

See i told you that you are the Sith lord dpawl31


----------



## Kopi

Best silent northbridge cooling might be the HR-05. I have one, havn't put it on yet, but "I should be strapping mine on soon". Its a great looking cooler and I'd definitely suggest taking a look at it for northbridge cooling.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Look on the first page. We have a list of CPU coolers and NB/SB coolers that fit on the board.









I use PC Wizard 2007 to check the motherboard temp, aka NB/SB. Some speculation as to how it gets to the number. We seem to agree it's NB+SB/2.

*edit*

Looked at the other thread more. Software voltage reading is faulty most of the time. Don't trust it.

Thank You. I didn't see it there 2 days ago when I first came here. =)

And dpawl. My 2x1 GB Corsair works if you want to add.. But if the 512 MB works. The 1 GB should too.

Edit: Here is the reading..

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6...8112208qs3.png

What would it me? NB+SB / 2 is too cold..?


----------



## Simonraical

Hi.

Ive just bought an Asus P5N-E mainly because I saw this thread. It comes either tomorrow or friday. I was wondering if there is a website/photo of the mobos BIOS, more importantly the o/c options. Thanks


----------



## Blizzie

Yup there is. Take a look here. Press "Next Page" for more.

http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/articl...50aHVzaWFzdA==


----------



## Asce

Anyone know why mine doesnt like to post every so often, as ive booted up at 2.8 earlier and now even at stock speeds its a 50% chance it will post first time.


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Anyone know why mine doesnt like to post every so often, as ive booted up at 2.8 earlier and now even at stock speeds its a 50% chance it will post first time.


... too difficult to know why without many specifics about your set-up ...

however - save your existing CMOS setting (to floppy or USB Flash - then reload default CMOS .. reboot and see what happens - remember to set-up your drives and any other peripherals - after you restore CMOS - and BEFORE you reboot.

If things are back to normal - try setting same parameters in bios - but look out for whatever caused the instability


----------



## SkyGate

Quick question ...

Does anyone know if there is an existing thread on manufacturing batch / version numbers / dates of E6600's or Q6600's which have been good clockers?

Cheers


----------



## rheza02

hey everyone
i'm new member 
now i want post my screenshot 
this


----------



## The Pook

Needless to say, my P5N-E will be coming to a sexy new home when it comes in. (Thinking another 3-4 weeks.







).


----------



## rheza02

any suggestion for my proc ?,
this procesor can't finish boot to windows in clock 3600 
in that screenshot i use 1.4375 in bios, and memory run @400Mhz with 4-4-4-12
this good 0r bad ?, i never oc core 2 duo procesor...this is first time...

sorry for my bad english


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rheza02*


any suggestion for my proc ?,
this procesot can't finish boot to windows in clock 3600 
i use 1.4375 in bios, and memory run @400Mhz with 4-4-4-12

sorry for my bad english


Please fill in your system specifications! Then we should be able to help!


----------



## Blizzie

I have an E6600 overclocked to 3.0 GHz.. Will that cause the Northbridge too much heat on the stock heatsink?


----------



## Kopi

Wow pook, that case is probably the best looking case I've ever seen, period.


----------



## The Pook

It's huge.









It's cool though -- you don't really even have to cable manage.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SkyGate*


... too difficult to know why without many specifics about your set-up ...

however - save your existing CMOS setting (to floppy or USB Flash - then reload default CMOS .. reboot and see what happens - remember to set-up your drives and any other peripherals - after you restore CMOS - and BEFORE you reboot.

If things are back to normal - try setting same parameters in bios - but look out for whatever caused the instability










I loaded the defualt settings and it still does it. Its been running At 2.8Ghz fine for the last few weeks until last night


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
I have an E6600 overclocked to 3.0 GHz.. Will that cause the Northbridge too much heat on the stock heatsink?

You will have to check the temp yourself and see if it's hot. Use PC Wizard 2007 as I posted before.








Mine doesn't go over 35. So I can't tell what's hot or not. dpawl? Pook? What's a hot NB temp look like?









And Pook, maybe it's a South African thing, but that case is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.


----------



## rheza02

this new oc clock speed









please, any suggestion ?


----------



## Simonraical

Cooling for Cpu Heatsink. Would this fit? Note Holeless fitting:

http://www.thecoolingshop.com/produc...oducts_id/2330


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


You will have to check the temp yourself and see if it's hot. Use PC Wizard 2007 as I posted before.








Mine doesn't go over 35. So I can't tell what's hot or not. dpawl? Pook? What's a hot NB temp look like?









And Pook, maybe it's a South African thing, but that case is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.










As I posted before. Here is the image of PC Wizard. So my Northbridge would be.. 35 C?










@Simon: I really doubt that thing would fit.. *looks at Northbridge heatsink*


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Pook, maybe it's a South African thing, but that case is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.










....
......
.......

Are you serious?

Jump out a window.


----------



## nick69

Guys I can get a Q6600 here on offer pre-order, would I be stupid to get a E6600 instead or should I go with the Q??


----------



## Kopi

For the price you get the quad for now stick with it...its a great chip!


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


As I posted before. Here is the image of PC Wizard. So my Northbridge would be.. 35 C?










@Simon: I really doubt that thing would fit.. *looks at Northbridge heatsink*


You posted it before? Didn't see it... anyway. Yes, 35 would be your mobo(NB/SB) temp.

And Kopi, that's not very nice huh? Everyone knows people don't have feathers! But yeah, I am serious. It's very ugly. Just my opinion.


----------



## The Pook

*cry*


----------



## Blizzie

It never goes up or goes down, except staying in 1 C range. I guess there's not too much of a problem with 36 C. >_>: I hear max is 50 though.

When measuring CPU Temperature.. Do you go by Cores or the Overall?

Pook. My Antec Nine Hundred looks better.


----------



## The Pook

NO.
MY CASE IS WINNER.
IT NEVER IS LOSER.
IT IS THE WIN.
YOU GUYS ARE THE LOSE.


















I'm bored. Someone entertain me.


----------



## Blizzie

Eww.. look at that thing. Your flashy lights just don't cut it. =P

Hey hey. =P Will the Tuniq Tower fit TOGETHER with the Thermalright HR-05 (On Northbridge) on P5N-E SLI mobo? =( I'm scared it won't when I order them.


----------



## Kopi

I dont think that the regular HR-05 will cut it...see here when I did some testing. You can see that it would be cutting it preeeeeeeeettttyyyy close

[URL=http:/reviews/shootoutk/IMGP3697.JPG%5B/IMG]http://*************.com/reviews/shootoutk/IMGP3697.JPG[/IMG[/URL]]

The HR-05 SLI version should fit without a problem.


----------



## Blizzie

D:.. Hm... What to do, what to do. Maybe I can put a small fan on the stock heatsink for NB?


----------



## The Pook

Just get the SLI version if you want one.

If your NB doesn't get over 45C, you don't need to do anything -- it's fine.


----------



## Blizzie

According to PC Wizard and ASUS Probe.. The MB Temperature is 37 C.. But it feels like it's 55 or something.  Can't even touch the heatsink for over 3 seconds.


----------



## The Pook

The heatsink is supposed to be hot.

If it's cool, it's not doing its job.
If it's warm, it's getting heat off fine.

When it reads a high temp (ie, 50C +) and it is warm, your heatsink can't keep up and that's when you need a HR-05 or whatever you wanna invest in.


----------



## Blizzie

I'll trust you on that then =P Tuniq Tower alone will be fine.

Maybe a small fan if needed. =D


----------



## The Pook

In other news, my Asus P5N-E is being shipped back now.














Both my mobo and RAM should be back next week.

Too bad I won't be home all next week to try the stuff out.


----------



## Blizzie

Hm.. How is Tuniq pronounced? Just "tunic?"


----------



## dpawl31

Yes, like too-nick. lol.
Pooks new case is great, but I wouldn't spend as much as newegg asks for it








If I had that money, it'd be a P182.


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SkyGate*


The problem you are having is switching the disk with the one you booted from - when you access the new disk - the system wants to find command.com and it cant - cause you removed the disk.

What you are trying to do is not the best way...

Create a bootable floppy and the put the flash utility on it as well as the bios binary - that the recommended way - and it works









... hope this hekps you out










Thanks it did help. Only one issue. When I got to the flash screen, and typed P5NESLI.BIN, I pressed N, when they asked to save current. After that it just says "Source file not found!"

Can anyone help me on this? I put the P5NESLI.BIN(0608), and awdflash.exe on the MS-DOS disk.


----------



## Ravin

Yea...I've been busy lately. I try to keep up with the thread, but dpawl and pook seem to have all the answers anyway.









Anyone else see that this board is going to support the 45nm chips?!?! I'm so glad I had to hold off on the Q6600......I'll be ditching netburst for Penryn!


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


Thanks it did help. Only one issue. When I got to the flash screen, and typed P5NESLI.BIN, I pressed N, when they asked to save current. After that it just says "Source file not found!"

Can anyone help me on this? I put the P5NESLI.BIN(0608), and awdflash.exe on the MS-DOS disk.


... not sure what you did exactly or what your 'new' problem is ... perhaps you can come back with some more details ...

- but glad you got it flashed


----------



## SkyGate

... is anyone interested in Q6600's or E6850's ?

there have been some great price drops in the UK (as of 22/07/07) and I found a good source which will ship to UK address for GBP195 (Inclusive of VAT and shipping)

... let me know if anyone wants more details ;-)


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SkyGate* 
... not sure what you did exactly or what your 'new' problem is ... perhaps you can come back with some more details ...

- but glad you got it flashed









I didn't flash it yet. It won't let me so far. I did what you said. I put the P5NESLI.BIN and awdflash.exe file, in the same floppy as the MS-DOS. When I booted up, A:> promp showed up. I typed awdflash. Flash screen came up. I then typed P5NESLI.BIN. Then it asked, to save current BIOS. I pressed N, and after that, it said "Source file not found!".....So I just took the floppy out and reset.


----------



## Blizzie

Why don't you just flash it using EZ Flash from Windows?


----------



## b1gapl

I heard it's better to flash through the BIOS, than through Windows.


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b1gapl* 
I didn't flash it yet. It won't let me so far. I did what you said. I put the P5NESLI.BIN and awdflash.exe file, in the same floppy as the MS-DOS. When I booted up, A:> promp showed up. I typed awdflash. Flash screen came up. I then typed P5NESLI.BIN. Then it asked, to save current BIOS. I pressed N, and after that, it said "Source file not found!".....So I just took the floppy out and reset.


... Ok , I see ... not in front of my system at the moment ... but from what I remember ... once you have the awdflash screen - you should 'save' your exixting BIOS (good idea just in case you want to revert back) ... there should be a SAVE option - select this and enter - it should then prompt you for a filename -> type OLDBIOS (no extention) ... this should then write the data to the floppy. Once this is complete ... select from menu ... there should be a LOAD option - select this and enter - it should prompt you for a filename -> type the name without the .BIN (I think this is the problem) .... try this - sorry I don't remember exactly and not in front of system at the moment ... eitherway have a look at the help / instructions on the awdflash - it should have an example - just follow this - it will work


----------



## b1gapl

Thanks....but I remember I tried saving the old BIOS before, but it wouldn't fit onto the floppy, with the new BIOS, awdflash, and MS-DOS files. I'll just try what you said, and report back. Thanks again.


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b1gapl* 
Thanks....but I remember I tried saving the old BIOS before, but it wouldn't fit onto the floppy, with the new BIOS, awdflash, and MS-DOS files. I'll just try what you said, and report back. Thanks again.

... not sure id the bios flash s/w supports USB?

... you could try though...

if you have a USBdevice - plug this in - the device should be visible when you enter the awdbios setup (it it supports USB) - just select the USBdevice and save / load the files from there ... should be bigger than the floppy


----------



## The Pook

The built in flash utility in the BIOS lets you flash off anything plugged into the USB port. I put the BIOS I needed to flash too on my camera and flashed off that. >_>;


----------



## pheoxs

Hey I got a question, looking through the news it showed Asus's boards that now support 1333fsb with a flash, but the p5n-e sli wasn't on that list ... so will a E6850 work in this board?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


The built in flash utility in the BIOS lets you flash off anything plugged into the USB port. I put the BIOS I needed to flash too on my camera and flashed off that. >_>;


Yeah its really easy that way. Plug the USB in, choose EZ Flash, it lists whatever BIOS's it finds, you chose, press enter, *flash*


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


The built in flash utility in the BIOS lets you flash off anything plugged into the USB port. I put the BIOS I needed to flash too on my camera and flashed off that. >_>;


OK I got a camera. But I'm not sure of the steps to take, in order to do this via USB, as the manual doesn't explain. From what I understand:

1. Connect camera to computer via USB.
2. Format memory stick, by creating MS-DOS.
3. Drag in the BIOS and flash utility.
4.... When this is done, how would I go about booting off the USB?

Actually I have another memory stick, that is not compatible with my camera, but with my printer's card reader. Can I use that too?


----------



## SkyGate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


OK I got a camera. But I'm not sure of the steps to take, in order to do this via USB, as the manual doesn't explain. From what I understand:

1. Connect camera to computer via USB.
2. Format memory stick, by creating MS-DOS.
3. Drag in the BIOS and flash utility.
4.... When this is done, how would I go about booting off the USB?

Actually I have another memory stick, that is not compatible with my camera, but with my printer's card reader. Can I use that too?


... be careful ... some camera flash cards when formated (Fat) can no longer be read by the camera ....

.. this happend to me a long time ago - but could have been due to odd format used by camera ....

Check it out before - just in case


----------



## Kai-

To the 'will the Hr-05 fit' discussion that took place a page or two ago, heres a pic of my TT120(I got lazy with the fan insert - sue me) with my Noctua NH-U6, which I'm pretty sure is slightly bigger than the HR-05. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit, but it does fit in np.

To 'pheoxs', yes a 1333 FSB processor will work with this mobo.


----------



## abz

hey everyone.
i just got my p5n-e sli a few days ago (WOOOT) but i cant flash the bios to the 0608 version. Im trying to do it off a usb stick with EZ flash or whatever its called and when i do it, it says it completed everything is cool but when it reboots its still the 0401 bios.
help appreciated =D
abz.


----------



## Christiaan

Use the Windows flash utility. I don't know why everyone is messing around with USB sticks and so forth. It's easy and straight forward. You can't make a mistake.


----------



## abz

windows flash utility? i dont know what that is lol.. i flashed it both in bios (usb) and windows using asus update thingo but they both didnt work. when i get home today im going to try and refresh everything by taking out the battery then putting it back in.. maybe thats the issue?
abz


----------



## dpawl31

It's called Asus Update, available on the Asus downloads site.
I understand windows bios utilities used to be crap, and can be flakey if not done correctly. But I have flashed with it ~6 times with this board, and have had no issues.

In order to flash correctly, clear the bios (shut off PSU, set pin jumper to 2/3 instead of 2/1, wait a minute, then switch it back, turn on PSU and go!)

Then use Asus Update and make sure you go into options-->Allow downgradeable bios if you are flashing back to an old BIOS. I have no idea why it would not work for you.


----------



## abz

what is the jumper called? CLRTC? im such a noob lol


----------



## abz

AHHH WOOT!! thank you dpawl.
I figured it out and it FINALLY worked =]
+rep to you!!
catchas later


----------



## dpawl31

Teh Pawl Stikes again. lol ;D

Have fun with OC'n that quad!
Methinks you may run into problems with that PSU


----------



## Asce

Dpawl, do you know if there are any fsb holes between 1300 and 1600Qfsb


----------



## abz

why do u think my psu isnt good enuf?
im just trying to work out power consumption at full load.. its approx as well lol
~285W for the 8800
~102W for the Q6600
dont know how much the ram will take 
the fans and cards shouldnt use too much
so i estimate maybe a 450W max on full load?
overclocked it shouldnt use much more? im not sure


----------



## dpawl31

Watts really don't mean much when you don't factor in amperage, voltage stability, power dispersion etc.
I'd talk to Chozart if you want to know what a good PSU is for your rig.
Asce, as far as the holes, I have heard there are a few in the ~300 range... not really positive, I think Pook knows some about them.
I say pump that vcore/NB and shoot for 400 right out of the box. lol.


----------



## Asce

Yeah anything above 325fsb and it wouldnt post but a few days before it was running at 350 fine. And im now running back at 3.2Ghz again


----------



## abz

DAMMIT!! 
overclocking cpu and i cant hit anything above 300 FSB without stalling. PSU maybe? suggestions please =D


----------



## Asce

Could be your PSU or you need alot of vcore to get it that far.


----------



## Kai-

Doesn't the 650i, 680i and 965 have a lot of trouble with quad cores, because of a voltage issue or something like that?

The Corsair 520w is a good psu afaik, it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## coltsrock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abz*


DAMMIT!! 
overclocking cpu and i cant hit anything above 300 FSB without stalling. PSU maybe? suggestions please =D


What clocks are U getting? I plan on going Quad and freezer 7 with the P5N E SLI


----------



## dpawl31

Kai is right - most of the boards out, other than P5K, can't deal with quads that well.
But I believe there are some nifty bios updates in the works for quads.....


----------



## abz

im at 2.7ghz atm with 300fsb. ive kicked the ram up as well to 850mhz.
stock 1.3V vcore.
im not sure what could hav gone wrong apart from psu to be honest. is there any way to check if the psu is doing its job right? ill try again later when i get home from skewl >< its just not a happy computer right now ha
if all else fails, ill try take the psu back and swap it for the 600W one for an extra 30$ or whatever.
anyways hav a good one


----------



## dpawl31

ABZ... quitcha whinin, you have a quad O_O lol
Why the RAM @ 850?
Intels prefer 1:1 while overclocking.
Try 1300FSB and 650 RAM (325 pre QDR and DDR, with 1:1)
Try this with: vcore @ 1.35v with +100mv on, and NB @ 1.5v
Also, did you manually set your RAM timings?
Also kick your LDT frequency to 4x (right Pookers?







)


----------



## abz

haha u sure know ur stuff. i heard that 1:1 is better. i tried it in the bios.. however it makes them both 1066fsb and im sure my ram couldnt handle that without some timing loosening.
i have manually set my timings 4.4.4.15.1T which is its standard timings.
i havent upped vcore coz i dunno what is dangerous =P
i got NO idea what +100mv does and i didnt even know u had to change NB voltages =P and again no idea what LDT freq. does =P
BUT one thing is fur shure.. i will not stop whining! if it can go faster, i wont stop until it does!!!! call me a speed freak or just a freak =P
<3n u dpawl


----------



## dpawl31

No no no lol.
That's a different 1:1, thats after QDR and DDR.
You need pre-QDR/DDR. ie 325Mhz.

So here it is, step by step:
Turn to full manual control, and manually enter FSB of 1300, and RAM of 650.
Set your vcore @ 1.35v, and your +100mv to ON (it's where vcore is)
The NB voltage is there as well, switch to 1.5v option.
LDT frequency may not be neccessary yet, but I would drop it to 4x as a precaution.
Oh and set memory to 2T, you can tighten that back up when you finalize everything.


----------



## abz

ah figured. the bios seemed a bit stuffed when i did 1:1 haha
ill try it when i get home. 7 hours or so of boredom.
thx for that
if it works ill +rep you but ill probs do it anyway coz ive learnt stuff =P
ta


----------



## Ictinike

Do I see this correctly on ASUS support site.. the current BIOS is 0608 now but the 0607 is BETA? What is the latest non-beta? 608? Sorry tried to search the thread but too many hits of BIOS


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ictinike*


Do I see this correctly on ASUS support site.. the current BIOS is 0608 now but the 0607 is BETA? What is the latest non-beta? 608? Sorry tried to search the thread but too many hits of BIOS










The latest non-beta BIOS, is 0608.


----------



## Mussels

does 0608 still have unlocked multis? i heard that some bioses locked them, and for the OC i like, i need to adjust mine.


----------



## Asce

Abz you want sync mode


----------



## abz

sync mode?
btw i cant seem to get any higher than 3.2ghz atm. ive tried upping Vcore to 1.4 but still it freezes on XP load screen. should i up the voltage on the NB to 1.57 or 1.65 or whatever (highest NB voltage).
im stable (enough to play games) at 1.375Vcore, 1.5something NB, +100mv 
355FSB = 3.195ghz and running 1:1 with the ram.


----------



## Asce

Sync mode for the ram. If you selected 1:1 it will set it at QDR. But with your current overclock if you set you ram to sync mode it will make the ram run at the 355fsb


----------



## abz

makes sense i guess.
im gonna give the bios another shot, increase some voltages and come back
maybe 20 mins or so.. dinner soon =]


----------



## Kai-

@ mussels, I'm pretty sure that only pre-401 bios's have the unlocked down multi.


----------



## Mussels

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kai-* 
@ mussels, I'm pretty sure that only pre-401 bios's have the unlocked down multi.

i'm pretty sure i'm on 401... how do you people deal with locked multis? it was one of the reasons i bought the mobo.


----------



## abz

@mussels - you only have a E6600 anyway? i didnt know they had an unlocked multi? correct me if im wrong.


----------



## Ictinike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


The latest non-beta BIOS, is 0608.


Thanks mate! Thought so but wanted to make sure, paranoid in my old age, LMAO


----------



## abz

also.. i got a Q. which normally runs hotter? northbridge or southbridge coz my northbridge heatsink boils while my southbridge is rather unaffected (i have a active heatsink on southbridge and stock on northbridge.) I can only overclock more if i increase nb voltage but its painfully hot.


----------



## Pimpmydesktop

hey guys i have been doing alot of research and i think the asus p5n-e sli
650i is for me so i have just purchased it on ebuyer cost me seventy notes but hoping that it will help me overclock my core 2 duo e4300 (said in hushed voice) and unlock more of its potential, i hope i will be able to draw on your guys experience and knowledge as im new to overclocking.


----------



## Coma

Hey dpawl!
I *finally* all my hardware delivered (sigh) and put it together.

I've started overclocking but I've been wanting to run the FSB:RAM at 1:1... except if you run it at Linked and 1:1, setting the FSB to 1066 will make the RAM 1066 too? I assumed 1066 was actually 1066/4 and so, if I reach 400 (1600) FSB my RAM can operate at 800MHz :e (that's stock, but I did tighten the timings a little)

Anyway, the display confused me a little, and I didn't really want to try when I don't know for sure.. could you please clarify? Thanks =)


----------



## Mussels

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abz*


@mussels - you only have a E6600 anyway? i didnt know they had an unlocked multi? correct me if im wrong.


Certainly does, on this board (0401) i have 6-7-8-9 and my asus P5B-E has 7-8-9.

It doesnt have them all, but it certainly has some, i beleive they're the same multis speedstep uses.

Pimpmydesktop: The boards fairly simple for OCing, you'll get something out of it

Coma: This mobo reports 1:1 strangely.
1:1 would be say 266FSB(quad to 1066) and 266MHz (533MHz DDR) - this board thinks 1:1 is 1066FSB (266) and DDR1066Mhz ram (533Mhz) use "sync mode" in the bios options for true 1:1

abz: Northbridge is hotter - thats why the southbridge didnt even come with a stock heatsink, as its not neccesary, while the NB has a huge one. Definately cool the NB as much as you can.

Note for all: I've learned from OCZ forums/reps, that higher NB volts is key for this board, many OCZ DDR2 800 kits do not work stable with less than 1.5v
For this with poor OC/instability, aim a fan at the NB and raise the volts, it may do the trick for you.


----------



## abz

@coma
i had the same issue when i first got it and was confused.. but change all settings to full manual and then do it yourself. the ratios in bios are already QDR and DDR. so just set whatever u like for FSB and then do half of that for the ram. it works =D

anyways ive changed my SB active heatsink to my NB and its so damm close to my gfx card and the cpu cooler. I had to mod (cut a piece of plastic) the cpu cooler in order to get the NB cooler to fit and everything still touches each other. but its a lot cooler which is good =D


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coma*


Hey dpawl!
I *finally* all my hardware delivered (sigh) and put it together.

I've started overclocking but I've been wanting to run the FSB:RAM at 1:1... except if you run it at Linked and 1:1, setting the FSB to 1066 will make the RAM 1066 too? I assumed 1066 was actually 1066/4 and so, if I reach 400 (1600) FSB my RAM can operate at 800MHz :e (that's stock, but I did tighten the timings a little)


Instead of selecting 1:1, select Sync mode instead.


----------



## Blizzie

Can someone help me here? No one has replied for about 2 days now.

Current setup is E6600 at 3.0 GHz with VCroe at 1.35V.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...g-problem.html


----------



## Coma

Thanks =)
I'm gonna leave my RAM at 4-4-4-12 1T 800MHz though, because Windows Experience Index rates it at 5.9 while the CPU is at 5.5 (2.7GHz is the sweet spot for me.. not too hot and stable - anything higher is either too hot (higher voltage) or too unstable (undervolting).. although this CPU does seem to have the potential to be a good overclocker if I buy aftermarket cooling for it - I ran 3.2GHz for 10 min but it got to 60C so I dropped the idea =p)


----------



## Kopi

Hey...the good ole p5n thread, lots of new faces, good to see.

I'm ashamed to say that I've puchased a DS3 for my second rig only due to price, i'll see which I like better but I really like the P5N-e. Just stopping in, i dont really come here anymore


----------



## dpawl31

pimpmydesktop - welcome to the club









abz has it right with the 1:1 trick... just go full unlinked, input FSB, then 1/2 that for RAM. Easiest, and better to help you remember what you put in (since you have to type both)
Don't use sync, just use full manual and enter both








If I remember correctly someone here said sync does something unexpected, but I am mind-blanking right now









abz- I say revert to 0401 bios (so you can unlock multi) and drop to 8x, with 355 FSB, and work your way to 400FSB (in 1:1).
You will be @ the same clock (instead of 3.195 you'll be at a flat 3.2Ghz) and your RAM can run @ stock speed, and you'll get more FSB out of it








Keep in mind- you DO have a quad, and nothing but the newer DDR3 boards can really OC a quad very well... a 3.2Ghz Q6600 is awesome. If you can get to 400Mhz, you'll get some even better numbers/performance.

Kopi... you said DS3 for 2nd rig right? 
So still the P5N-E...


----------



## The Pook

Mobo came.
CPU is dead.
>_<


----------



## Kopi

Poor pooky...no luck at all with PC's.

Yes Dpawl, still reppin a P5N, no doubt.


----------



## PaRaDoX

intel4leif


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PaRaDoX*


intel4leif


Uh, random, but w00t none-the-less! haha.

Pookkkk... that BITES...







Sorry man...
What are you going for now?
Going to try and RMA it?








Or go G0-Quad?


----------



## PaRaDoX

Wish this motherboard support quad cores!


----------



## sebastien

Hey guys,
Sorry if this is a stupid question.

I bought the p5n-e from a friend and was wondering.. If I don't have the latest bios from Asus the Intel C2D 6750 wont work correct.

Is it possible for me to put the 6750 in and flash the bios to the new one?

Thanks


----------



## PaRaDoX

prolly have to wait for a newer bios


----------



## sebastien

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PaRaDoX*


prolly have to wait for a newer bios


So no I can't put the 6750 in without having the new bios. The mobo won't even post or recognize it as a lower speed processor?


----------



## dpawl31

I don't know what Paradox is talking about...
1) It _does_ support quad cores...
2) It will work with the 6750 - I believe if you use it right off the bat, it won't recognize it correctly, but you WILL be able to get into BIOS and such.
Just use another PC to put the BIOS on a flash drive, and flash that BIOS.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
2) It will work with the 6750 - I believe if you use it right off the bat, it won't recognize it correctly, but you WILL be able to get into BIOS and such.
Just use another PC to put the BIOS on a flash drive, and flash that BIOS.

I was wondering about the same thing! Thanks!

I'm going to get an E6550 with a P5N-E


----------



## dpawl31

If I remember correctly, they just get recognized as their parent chip, ie a 6750 would be recognized by the board as a 6700.


----------



## The Pook

He's talking about his motherboard in his system specs. Dur. >.>;

And.
I have no money for a CPU.
I'll either be stuck on this T-Bird until I can (Think December -> Feb time) or until I find a hella cheap one.


----------



## dpawl31

How was I supposed to relate a quad core capable board, to a oldschool gateway setup? lol


----------



## Asce

Pook what have you done to your rig this time?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


He's talking about his motherboard in his system specs. Dur. >.>;

And.
I have no money for a CPU.
I'll either be stuck on this T-Bird until I can (Think December -> Feb time) or until I find a hella cheap one.


I could always ship you my Celeron D 2.5GHz.







She overclocks to atleast 3.2GHz. I didn't go further, I switched to the PD 805.


----------



## MGX1016

How does this board compare to the 650i Ultra from eVGA?


----------



## Blizzie

Random question: How do I get into Safe Mode?  F8 gives me the Boot Sequence.


----------



## MGX1016

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Random question: How do I get into Safe Mode?  F8 gives me the Boot Sequence.

After it posts and you see sort of a white _ blinking tap F8 over and over..

Easy but sometimes dangerous way: Halfway through boot just restart..
After boot hit the reset button on the case


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MGX1016*


After it posts and you see sort of a white _ blinking tap F8 over and over..

Easy but sometimes dangerous way: Halfway through boot just restart..
After boot hit the reset button on the case










I'll try that. And seocnd meathod.. Hehe.. Force it to error so it shows that screen automatically.


----------



## Coma

Hey.. I've got a question about my MB (in PC Probe/SpeedFan/BIOS) temps (northbridge?).. I'm running on 49-50c idle.. is this high?

What's the limit for the MB? I'm using the stock heatsink.


----------



## dpawl31

That's pretty high for that temp... did you reseat your NB with AS5, and do you have good airflow over the chipsets?


----------



## The Pook

Gunna order my E2140 tomorrow...should be here Tuesday best case scenario, and Thursday worst case scenario.


----------



## dpawl31

EWWW...








Oh well, I guess it's due to cash flow?
Still, ew. lol.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


EWWW...








Oh well, I guess it's due to cash flow? 
Still, ew. lol.










Are you stupid? It's a good chip.

It's obviously no E6x00/E6x20, but it's half the price of the cheapest.

Plus, NETBURST, ROFL, etc.


----------



## dpawl31

Why not bump up to a 4400?







That's all I am saying.
No need to call me stupid








Just saying, it's no where near your chip that used to be... 
Oh, and my netburst is still lightyears ahead of your TBird O_O


----------



## The Pook

17.5s vs 16.5s in Super Pi 1M is no where near? :***:

It's slower, no doubt, but it's not that bad. I only have $90, or else I'd be getting something higher end.

Plus there is a high chance of me getting a quad ~November, so I'm not really worried about a second higher Super Pi time or 2FPS less in CS:S when I already get 280+ >.>

AMD is better for your e-peen regardless of speed than Netburst is. So I win.

Go get me a sammich.


----------



## dpawl31

I am talking cache, and pure power, not nearly useless pi times








You seem to always forget: 
1) I bought the *netburst* to tide me till I found the cash/had the need for a higher powered chip. Pent.D's are great, no matter what you say.
2) I came from a 2.8ghz celeron single core skt 478... O_O
3) I started this thread, so I *always* win.


----------



## MGX1016

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


17.5s vs 16.5s in Super Pi 1M is no where near? :***:

It's slower, no doubt, but it's not that bad. I only have $90, or else I'd be getting something higher end.

Plus there is a high chance of me getting a quad ~November, so I'm not really worried about a second higher Super Pi time or 2FPS less in CS:S when I already get 280+ >.>

AMD is better for your e-peen regardless of speed than Netburst is. So I win.

Go get me a sammich.


Tell me how that OC's.. It's a real interesting processor...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I am talking cache, and pure power, not nearly useless pi times








You seem to always forget: 
1) I bought the *netburst* to tide me till I found the cash/had the need for a higher powered chip. Pent.D's are great, no matter what you say.
2) I came from a 2.8ghz celeron single core skt 478... O_O
3) I started this thread, so I *always* win.










Super Pi is heavily cache dependent.

1) I'm buying an E2140 (which, is better than your Pentium D, btw. >.>) to tide me over 'til Quad. E2140's are great processors, no matter what you say.
2) I came from a 2.5Ghz P4 single core skt 478... O_O
3) I'm Pook, so I *always* win.


















Quote:



Originally Posted by *MGX1016*


Tell me how that OC's.. It's a real interesting processor...


I'm expecting at least 3.2Ghz. 100% OC. After that, it's hit or miss -- some can't touch 3Ghz, others are golden up to 3.5Ghz.

Will do.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


3) I'm Pook, so I *always* lose.










True that...


----------



## MGX1016

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


True that...










No









Pook always wins fyi


----------



## dpawl31

I just died a little inside. lol








POOOOOK, you should do something fun with that old 6300... like, wire it to a car battery and video tape it...


----------



## gtboi604

hey fello P5N-ers again...
picked myself up a Q6600 today, lucky me G0 rev.

well, popped it in and just sitting @ stock right now.
Auto all voltages, idle is about 38/33/38/33C (hopefully will drop when AS settles)

So far test results are pretty impressive.
Well, of course considering I had a PD 805 clocked to 4.0Ghz, comes nowhere close.
Pi scores pretty much halved, raised bout 2000 pts in 3D 06', games fps increased bout 1-1/2 times...AND THIS IS ALL STOCK!!

Will OC later, let you guys know how it goes cause Im sure alotta you guys are wondering.
cheers!
D~


----------



## dpawl31

w00t!!!
Congrats GT... can't wait to see where you go with at G0... maybe they'll get a new BIOS out for the quads and you'll really fly O_O
Probably time to lose the F7Pro


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I just died a little inside. lol








POOOOOK, you should do something fun with that old 6300... like, wire it to a car battery and video tape it...










Or sell it "Damn sure it's dead -- As is" for $80 on eBay and it already sold.


----------



## dpawl31

lol did you really sell it? haha... poor stupid ebayers... they deserve it. lol.
I am so sick of telling people to buy stuff on ebay and having them say "isnt that unsafe, cant you get ripped off?"
It's all about reading the post thoroughly and making sure they are reputable, and know how to handle it if you get screwed. Buying an e6300 that says its dead, bad idea. lol


----------



## gtboi604

will fill you guys in later on the OC...and yeah, the F7pro has to go soon...
but I wont be doing any crazy OC on this bad boy until I do so...
hopefully around the 3.0-3.5Ghz range.
Cheers!
D~

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


w00t!!!
Congrats GT... can't wait to see where you go with at G0... maybe they'll get a new BIOS out for the quads and you'll really fly O_O
Probably time to lose the F7Pro


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



So your boot issues are most definately OC related.
No news there.

Some chips will take a good undervolting, some require stock or better for light overclocks. One e6600 could run @ 1.3v 3.2Ghz, and another could require 1.4v just for 3.2Ghz... Most likely you just aren't pushing enough vcore and the NB voltage.

Have you done all the basic tricks for the P5N-E?
Manually set RAM timings and voltage.
Running in 1:1 (not bios option, do it full manual and enter values yourself)

I don't remember how low the voltages for vcore go, but if you can get to 1.26v vcore, do that and turn +100mv option ON (which will effectively give you 1.36 vcore and better vdroop)

Keep us updated in the P5N-E Thread! Good luck.


I have it running at 1.28V for VCore right now. Should I continue dropping it lower to see how low it'll go for 15 minutes Orthos? I don't even think it can run with such a low voltage under stock.. Is it even normal for E6600 at 3.0GHz to have voltages at like 1.28V?

Going to run 3DMark and see if it'll crash or not at 1.28V @ 3.0GHz.

This overclocking stuff is confusing. =P Everything seems stable but when I boot up in morning, it doens't boot first time. e.e;; 2nd try and all the ones after work.


----------



## The Pook

Think some of you will be interested in these:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/asacgrbag2lb.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/asacgrbag4lb.html

I'm tempted -- if I have any spare money, I'll jump on the 4lb one. :O


----------



## dpawl31

4 pounder! awesome ....


----------



## Coma

I'm all stock (that means no AS5 either), and flow is as good as I managed to get it... which isn't that good :E

Anyway, what I really want to know is if it's dangerous? how high does yours run?


----------



## gsk_spurs

Hi,
Im planning on buying a Asus P5N-E SLI 650i, with a Intel Q6600, Corsair 2GB Kit (2x1GB) DDR2 800MHz/PC2-6400 XMS2 Memory and a 8800GTS 320mb Graphics Card, all powered by a OCZ StealthXStream 600W PSU.

First, is this a good Motherboard/Processor/RAM combo?
I was going to try overclocking the processor to 3.0, maybe even higher.

(Also, the guys over @ Xtremesystems.org have managed to get the Q6600 upto 3.7 on air cooling!)

Is the Arctic Freezer Pro 7 a good cooler to get? It seems good for the price...
I'm not exactly on a budget but i would like to keep it fairly cheap, what other cooler options is there?

Anyway, thanks for any help, great forum you have here








gsk_spurs


----------



## The Pook

For a Quad, I'd suggest a P35 chipset. They are more quad-OC-friendly, but this board should be good for a Q6600 up to 350-370FSB. Quads like P35's more than any 965 board... -- look into the Asus P5K Vanillia.









As for the cooler, get something a little beefier. It should be OK for stock-volt-OCing, but anything other than that, temps will climb fast on it. Get an Ultra-120 or an Enzotech Ultra-X.









Anywho.
Since I'm waiting on my CPU, I took off the NB to put Ceramique on it and...

*OH MAH LAWD*

It was like a rock. It took me 400 grit sandpaper to GET THE PASTE OFF (heatsink.) It was quite a bit easier to get it off the core (Q-tip + rubbing alcohol + patience), but it was like stone. >_<


----------



## Coma

lol, wow Pook! o.o

I'm probably gonna take my old P3's Intel fan off and put it over the NB heatsink.. somehow.. I'm not quite sure how to do this - if the fan (the plastic that contains it) touches the heatsink's metal, will it melt? lol ;p

Have any of you guys done something like this with the Asus NB heatsink and can give me a few dos and do nots?

Any help will be much appreciated =)


----------



## Blizzie

Don't mess up your northbridge too. XD

Fans are supposed to sit on heatsinks. At least the old ones. The temperature isn't hot enough to melt plastic. If it is.. Who knows what you're doing. =P

Still waiting for an answer on my post. =(


----------



## Kai-

My e6600 runs fine 3000mhz @ 1.25v. Rock solid stable.

Your 1.28 should be fine.

Also, keep in mind that as long as it is stable, it doesn't matter what voltage other people are using. If I needed 1.35 for 3ghz, it would not mean that you need 1.35 for 3 as well, since every chip is different. Just use whatever is stable for you.


----------



## Coma

Well, my NB's temp is generally 49-51 (haven't seen anything else yet).. dpawl said that it's hot, and I'm going to be opening the case soon to put in an intake fan and a floppy drive soon, so I thought I might as well take the fan off the P3 before I throw it away.


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coma*


lol, wow Pook! o.o

I'm probably gonna take my old P3's Intel fan off and put it over the NB heatsink.. somehow.. I'm not quite sure how to do this - if the fan (the plastic that contains it) touches the heatsink's metal, will it melt? lol ;p

Have any of you guys done something like this with the Asus NB heatsink and can give me a few dos and do nots?

Any help will be much appreciated =)


I went the easy route and just stuck a couple of 40mm fans on my NB and a cheap GPU cooler on the SB. The hardest part was lapping the stock NB HS...the thing looked like it had been dragged over rough cement about 500 times. Once I got it lapped and put some AS5 on it, I was able to push my little 4300 up to 3.0Ghz again (I had it there last winter but the summer heat was too much for it until I lapped it).

To answer your questions...the plastic fan will not melt when in contact with the HS unless you have ridiculous heat issues. I used a couple of small screws that were a tight fit between the fins of the HS to attach the fans. As for do's and do not's, I'd say to definitely lap the stock HS if you're gonna keep it in place. Even a mediocre lap with 250 grit is better than what it has now.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coma*


lol, wow Pook! o.o

I'm probably gonna take my old P3's Intel fan off and put it over the NB heatsink.. somehow.. I'm not quite sure how to do this - if the fan (the plastic that contains it) touches the heatsink's metal, will it melt? lol ;p

Have any of you guys done something like this with the Asus NB heatsink and can give me a few dos and do nots?

Any help will be much appreciated =)



OH! OH! OH! PICK _MEEEEEEEE_.

I put a small fan on it as well (PGA370 Celly, not a P3, though) on my other P5N and it kept temps at a constant 37C, idle or load. Without it, it was a 38C idle and a 40C load. It was only 5CFM, but it helped.

"Small" heatsinks like that are supposed to be warm, or they aren't doing their job, or the part isn't being stressed.







Except for Prescotts. They just like annoying us with excess heat. >.>;


----------



## Coma

Have you got any suggestions of a way to secure it onto the heatsink?

Thanks again =p

and yes, Prescotts are freaking hot. ;| Just got rid of mine, after a veeery long time.


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coma* 
Have you got any suggestions of a way to secure it onto the heatsink?

Small screws or zip ties







I have also used super glue before when nothing else would do the job.


----------



## The Pook

Screws into between the fins.


----------



## Coma

Thanks =)

Gonna crash now, night!


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kai-*


My e6600 runs fine 3000mhz @ 1.25v. Rock solid stable.

Your 1.28 should be fine.

Also, keep in mind that as long as it is stable, it doesn't matter what voltage other people are using. If I needed 1.35 for 3ghz, it would not mean that you need 1.35 for 3 as well, since every chip is different. Just use whatever is stable for you.


Wow a 1.25V.. I guess I'll try seeing how low mines will go until it won't boot. And then work up.


----------



## Delphi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


For a Quad, I'd suggest a P35 chipset. They are more quad-OC-friendly, but this board should be good for a Q6600 up to 350-370FSB. Quads like P35's more than any 965 board... -- look into the Asus P5K Vanillia.









As for the cooler, get something a little beefier. It should be OK for stock-volt-OCing, but anything other than that, temps will climb fast on it. Get an Ultra-120 or an Enzotech Ultra-X.









Anywho.
Since I'm waiting on my CPU, I took off the NB to put Ceramique on it and...

*OH MAH LAWD*

It was like a rock. It took me 400 grit sandpaper to GET THE PASTE OFF (heatsink.) It was quite a bit easier to get it off the core (Q-tip + rubbing alcohol + patience), but it was like stone. >_<


Omg i had the same problem, I used my nail to scrape it off. Once i put as5 on it droped my temps 14c


----------



## MGX1016

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Delphi*


Omg i had the same problem, I used my nail to scrape it off. Once i put as5 on it droped my temps 14c










Doesn't that void warranty?


----------



## Coma

Well, it's not like they have some evul machine that can tell if you scratched the thermal compound with your nails..

Not yet, anyway.


----------



## Blizzie

Haha man.. It still doesn't turn on first try in the morning.. *shifty eyes* *moves RAM to black slots*


----------



## Asce

That problem should be cured by now


----------



## dpawl31

Yes the ram slot issue is cured - IF you have something other than the original bios.

I am going to do some hard thinking on your situation blizzie... it's odd, but I'll figure it out.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Yes the ram slot issue is cured - IF you have something other than the original bios.

I am going to do some hard thinking on your situation blizzie... it's odd, but I'll figure it out.


It is odd.. Orthos runs 12 hours+ and is fully stable.. But the first boot in morning doesn't boot. Every time after it works. ;

Maybe the computer is cold XD































And I have the newest BIOS version.


----------



## Asce

Maybe you need to give it some loving in the morning


----------



## Blizzie

Ohhh.. It wants a hug. But I can't give it one. =( I have a computer table where it slides into the thing.. So there's wood on both sides. =P


----------



## Asce

Are you sure thats enough loving it needs?


----------



## Blizzie

I really don't think that's the problem.


----------



## Digikid

wow...I cannot believe that this thread has grown so LARGE!!!!


----------



## Asce

Blizzie at least yours works 99.99% of the time. Mine is sooo temperamental, i took it round a mates the other week and it ran fine until i needed to reboot it and it wouldnt post after that. And it was 50/50 at stock settings, now its running fine for now







. Just got to sort out why it is hanging on shutdown.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Digikid*


wow...I cannot believe that this thread has grown so LARGE!!!!


It takes after me....?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Blizzie at least yours works 99.99% of the time. Mine is sooo temperamental, i took it round a mates the other week and it ran fine until i needed to reboot it and it wouldnt post after that. And it was 50/50 at stock settings, now its running fine for now







. Just got to sort out why it is hanging on shutdown.


Well it needs to work 100% or I'm not satisfied.


----------



## Blizzie

Got my Tuniq Tower from a local store for $55.95. *goes strap it on* I hope it's easy... Looks confusing.

798 grams = 1.75928885 pounds

Dang that thing is *HUGE*. When people told me it was big.. I didn't think it was this big..

Edit: Are you sure this thing won't fall off the mobo and onto my video card? >___>; It's 1.7 pounds..


----------



## Mussels

Hey y'all.

Got a Q6600 G0 on the way in.

Wondering if anyones hit the FSB limit with these like on some of the other boards? Any bios thats best for it? (currently 0401)

i'm really praying for 3.6GHz+ (upgrading cooling)

As for reccomendations for P35... i'll sell this mobo on later, so lets stick with P5n-E tweaks for now


----------



## Blizzie

I got my Tuniq Tower on. =D Kind of scared about it falling off. XD

Is the fan supposed to make scratchy noises when it's >1300 RPM? And it gives up a little burning smell... o.o;; *shifty eyes* *scared*


----------



## Delphi

Hey Dpawl i would like to add another cooler and set of ram to the combatibilty list.

The cooler is a Sycthe Infinity and the ram is DDR2 800 Crucial Ballistix


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I got my Tuniq Tower on. =D Kind of scared about it falling off. XD

Is the fan supposed to make scratchy noises when it's >1300 RPM? And it gives up a little burning smell... o.o;; *shifty eyes* *scared*










Dub it out for a new fan...


----------



## Blizzie

No new fan.









And dpaul. My Corsair RAM works as well.. It's 6400. The ones you have listed are for 5400 or so. I forget. =P Too lazy to check.


----------



## abz

WOOT guys. 
3Dmark06 results are in.
heres a screenshot and some validation for it all =D








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=222629

i hope its good =]

*edit*
ask any questions about specs if u want coz i know its not all there. cheers


----------



## Asce

Now im jelous


----------



## Praeses

Hello P5N-E'ers!

1) I'm going to order this motherboard tomorrow but I'm kinda scared about getting memory that's not on the QVL.
Does anybody know whether Mushkin EM2 PC6400 5-5-5-12 2GB kit is compatible with this motherboard?

2) If one sets the mobo to "unlinked mode" or whatever you call it, does this mean I can OC the CPU and memory 100% independently? (or not OC the memory at all while OC'ing the CPU)

Thanks!


----------



## Simonraical

Hey.

I got this board a few weeks back, and I've just tried to test its limits.

I seem to have overshot so much that it wont boot, i.e turn it on, no normal beeps, no video output.

I thought that it was supposed to revert to the stock settings without resetting the CMOS jumpers?

Saying that, I've reset the jumpers, but still wont boot, and I get a 1 long three short beep code, which ive read is something to do with my video card (8400GS).

Ive tried to take out the battery, but cant seem to pull it out... lol

Any suggestions pleeease?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
Hello P5N-E'ers!

1) I'm going to order this motherboard tomorrow but I'm kinda scared about getting memory that's not on the QVL.
Does anybody know whether Mushkin EM2 PC6400 5-5-5-12 2GB kit is compatible with this motherboard?

2) If one sets the mobo to "unlinked mode" or whatever you call it, does this mean I can OC the CPU and memory 100% independently? (or not OC the memory at all while OC'ing the CPU)

Thanks!









For unlinked mode you can set CPU/RAM separately. You can over clock just the CPU if you want.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Simonraical* 
Hey.

I got this board a few weeks back, and I've just tried to test its limits.

I seem to have overshot so much that it wont boot, i.e turn it on, no normal beeps, no video output.

I thought that it was supposed to revert to the stock settings without resetting the CMOS jumpers?

Saying that, I've reset the jumpers, but still wont boot, and I get a 1 long three short beep code, which ive read is something to do with my video card (8400GS).

Ive tried to take out the battery, but cant seem to pull it out... lol

Any suggestions pleeease?

CMOS pins:
Move pins from 1-2 to 2-3, cycle the PSU on/off a few times (not turn on, just cycle on/off) for about 1-2 minutes, stop on ON, move jumper back to 1-2.

That don't work, take battery out (push the metal pin outward, and then clip the side of the battery up with your finger for about 15 minutes.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
I got my Tuniq Tower on. =D Kind of scared about it falling off. XD

Is the fan supposed to make scratchy noises when it's >1300 RPM? And it gives up a little burning smell... o.o;; *shifty eyes* *scared*









Check to make sure that the fan isn't hitting any of the wires or anything, that happend to me when i was running my tuniq.


----------



## Blizzie

So dpaul any thoughts on my rebooting problem yet? For now I have CPU at stock.









Weird little thing.. It's stable by Orthos and Prime95 but first boot never boots in the morning. XD


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
For unlinked mode you can set CPU/RAM separately. You can over clock just the CPU if you want.

Thanks, sounds like a useful option to enable if one has cheap memory









Ok, I can get Team Elite DDR2-800 2 GB for the same price as the mushkins.

So does anybody know whether the *Team Elite or Mushkin EM2* are compatible with this motherboard?
Haste would be appreciated! I want to order within 17 hours









Thanks


----------



## The Pook

Since dpawl said he was going to help, I wasn't going to, but since he isn't....

It happens when the BIOS buffer isn't set up correctly. Not bad enough to be a dead BIOS chip, but bad enough to stop you from booting up the first time. Chances are when you attempt to, then turn it off and try again, the buffer doesn't fully reset, which lets it boot up since it's not hitting the "bad" part. I wouldn't bother RMAing it, seeing as it's just a nuisance, but if you want to, go for it.

I had it on 3 outta 5 of my Biostar TForce boards, and they worked fine until they died. (Died due to something completely unrelated, though, not because of this.)

>.>
dpawl -- told you I _always_ win.


----------



## Blizzie

>_>;; I bought it from the store and it's too late for an exchange. =( There's nothing I can do about it then? If someone told me earlier *shifty eyes*

And this happens only when it's overclocked? Stock it's normal..


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
Thanks, sounds like a useful option to enable if one has cheap memory









Ok, I can get Team Elite DDR2-800 2 GB for the same price as the mushkins.

So does anybody know whether the *Team Elite or Mushkin EM2* are compatible with this motherboard?
Haste would be appreciated! I want to order within 17 hours









Thanks

Not sure.. But you can go ahead and try. Then tell us. =D They should work though.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Not sure.. But you can go ahead and try. Then tell us. =D They should work though.

Only if you ship a free cookie to SA for trying them out


----------



## Blizzie

Pook!!! Cookie please. Send it over to that guy. Thank You.


----------



## Betrivent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Simonraical*


Hey.

I got this board a few weeks back, and I've just tried to test its limits.

I seem to have overshot so much that it wont boot, i.e turn it on, no normal beeps, no video output.

I thought that it was supposed to revert to the stock settings without resetting the CMOS jumpers?

Saying that, I've reset the jumpers, but still wont boot, and I get a 1 long three short beep code, which ive read is something to do with my video card (8400GS).

Ive tried to take out the battery, but cant seem to pull it out... lol

Any suggestions pleeease?


Actually most other Asus boards do, but this specific board doesn't always revert if it goes too far. You'll have to reset the CMOS. Yea, it's a pain -- Birght side is that it keeps you under control so you don't go way _overboard_, get it?!


----------



## The Pook

So stock it's fine?

Probably when OCing, a few of the settings steps on the toes of the bad area on the BIOS chip.


----------



## MGX1016

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Betrivent*


Actually most other Asus boards do, but this specific board doesn't always revert if it goes too far. You'll have to reset the CMOS. Yea, it's a pain -- Birght side is that it keeps you under control so you don't go way _overboard_, get it?!










My M2N was supposed to aswell..

Never does .-.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


So stock it's fine?

Probably when OCing, a few of the settings steps on the toes of the bad area on the BIOS chip.


----------



## Mussels

for info, the latest (0608) bios has unlockable multis for conroes









Still waiting on people with G0 quads to give any advice... mines due in about a week and a half


----------



## dpawl31

Wow... damn. Lot's of stuff going on in the few days I was PC-less.
Was working on my friends fathers computer, needed to borrow my GPU








Sadly, it's the only PCIE GPU. . . gave away my AGP card and all other PC's in the house are onboard ... I know, onboard







But hey, they were all _free_ and _none_ of them work. lol...

Thanks for the updates to the ram/cooler section guys









*ABZ*... 3.3Ghz quad... is it against TOS to say _I hate you_?









*Simonraical*- I have had issues like that, and I don't have a PC Speaker







so I didn't even get beeps. It most definately _is_ an uncleared BIOS, some seem to be pickier than others about resetting. If you haven't fixed it yet - try this:

Turn off PSU, back on then off again
Press Power Button Twice (on pc)
Set jumper to pins 2 and 3. (make SURE you are using the right jumper!)
Press Power Button Twice (on pc)
Remove CMOS battery.
Press Power Button Twice (on pc)
Let sit for approx 5minutes.
Replace jumper on pins 1 and 2.
Replace battery.
Turn on PSU...
Cross your fingers...
Press Power Button Once... yay or nay?








*Pook*, sounds like you hit Blizzie's problem on the head...
I was thinking that, but the fact it ran fine @ stock threw me off; what you said about the _bad spot_ is most likely true.
*

Blizzie*... I say set your PC to go into hibernate or sleep mode... you'll never have the problem again. Just reboot it once it a while to get a fresh slate









*Mussels*- *very* nice to know that about the unlocked multis.
People have been sitting on 0401 because of that! lol. Nice work (REP+)

*Praeses*, I think both of those RAM sets would be fine ... can't tell you they _will_ work, but I bet they will... but if not, hey, something new to add to the *does not work* list! haha. Always a luck-of-the-draw with RAM anyway







I'd say you have about a 95% chance of it working fine







If that's enough for you, buy away


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 

*Praeses*, I think both of those RAM sets would be fine ... can't tell you they _will_ work, but I bet they will... but if not, hey, something new to add to the *does not work* list! haha. Always a luck-of-the-draw with RAM anyway







I'd say you have about a 95% chance of it working fine







If that's enough for you, buy away









Thanks man. I'm just waiting for the woman at my local shop to get out of hospital to order my stuff for me! I've been planning this upgrade since the beginning of the year...now when I finally go to order she's in the hospital. Such bad luck!
The memory I order online though...still deciding which one to get. I'm quite at ease about them being compatible or not...but I have trouble deciding which one to get; Team Elite 5-5-5-15 or Mushkin EM2 5-5-5-12. I will be OC'ing them slightly and fooling around with timings...if anybody can give me some advice to which will be the better buy, please reply







I can get them for exactly the same price.


----------



## Blizzie

I've seen some teacher's computer at school (laptops) that didn't turn back on after it went to Hibernate. xD The BIOS got messed up for some reason.. Flashing it was one insane task.

And I'd go with the Mushkin.. Cause. It's Mushkin. xD


----------



## dpawl31

Those are school computers, hell, they are probably PII's. lol
On the RAM issue - how much are you spending, and where are you buying from?
BTW- You should talk to ChristiannSC... he's in SA too







(w/ a P5N-E!)


----------



## Blizzie

I meant.. They're laptops belonging to teachers. =P Not the best but Pentium 4. I do Comp Support for school. =/

And I emailed Tuniq and this is what they had to say about my fan scratching against the heatsink (fixed) and the burning smell (which is still there).

"Dear Sir
Thanks for your mail.
Could you please tell us which shop did you buy the cooler from?
You got a bad fan. Please contact the shop to get a new one."

The store I bought it from doesn't accept returns on used heatsinks.. Maybe if I show them the email? Any suggestions dpawl/Pook(ie)?


----------



## The Pook

Just buy a cheap $5 fan and throw it on. You can probably get a higher CFM fan with less noise that way, and I would recommend doing that even if the fan was still good.









Just call up Tuniq and ask. Chances are they'd help you more that way. Just say the fan on it died xx days after you bought it, and the store doesn't except returns and ask if they can help you out.


----------



## Blizzie

Phone : +886-2-23622260
Fax : +886-2-23622296

How do I even dial that number..? I don't even think it's free or anything.









I would replace the fan, but I want to know that the whole thing works.. Like that burning smell *shifty eyes* Maybe it's not just the fan.


----------



## The Pook

Un-OC to stock, take off the fan. If the burning smell still happens, then it's something else.

If it wasn't the fan, and it's the CPU making the smell, your CPU would have been long gone. "Burning" wouldn't have happened that long to any piece of hardware.

Fans can smell like that during normal operation, and it just severely cripples them in the long run.


----------



## Blizzie

I've been at stock. =P It won't boot in morning so I changed it back. xD


----------



## Pimpmydesktop

can anyone tell me what ddr2 ram shows best overclocking results on the p5n 650i, my board came today and i am looking on ebuyer now to upgrade my ram, but wanted to make an informed choice. thanks guys any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Mussels

Pimp: in my experience, the board pretty much bums out at 1100MHz, and 900Mhz is about the best you'll get on most ram.

Everyone says D9 micron is the way to go, but i dont have a list of which rams use that.


----------



## The Pook

Um.

The board goes as fast as your RAM can go, and most GOOD D9 RAM can do 1100Mhz +

My Crucial did DDR2-1100 4-3-5-8 stable.


----------



## Mussels

of course pook, i'm just new to the board.

For some reason even tho my ram is memtest stable at 933 (950 at 2.25V) i get random BSOD's unless its <850... any suggestions for that?


----------



## The Pook

CPU or board could be unstable.


----------



## Blizzie

Omg man >_>; I returned the Tuniq Tower. And when I get home. I get an email from the Tuniq manufacturer they were going to send me a replacement fan........


----------



## The Pook

Strap both on then. >.>


----------



## ragugh

would a 3.06 ghz pentium 4 prescott from a HP work on this board?
i want to get my new system runnin as soon as possible, so i might just get all but proc at first, because i just realised how awesome this baord is and how much support it gets.

plus, will this ram be good?
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820231098
if it is not, please tell me


----------



## ragugh

http://secure.newegg.com/NewVersion/...Number=6305806
thats what i would be getting for now, if i can use my old proc
(and get my buddys video card to borrow)
then would come vid card (evga 8800gts 320mb)
then proc (probably C2D e6550)


----------



## The Pook

Your P4 will work if it's LGA775.

Get an Asus P5K Vanilla if you can afford it.


----------



## ragugh

newegg link please?
i cant find a "vanilla" link lol.
umm, yeah

EDIT:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131184
i think i found it lol
so whats the diff? just color and onboard video?

EDIT2:
bah, faster RAM too
and i think the SLI mode is not as good.
and its not an nvidia chipset...
i dont think i like.


----------



## ragugh

oh, and BTW, thanks for the info on the P4 compatibility. i have 270$ right now. i think im gonna order mobo/ram/tuniq tower
(i would want it in the future, and i want to push that old prescott damnit)
lol.


----------



## The Pook

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131180

That's the Vanilla.

It's a P35 chipset, OCs further, scores better in benchmarks, slightly more mature SLI, and OCs quads better -- future safe.

And btw -- in the future, just use the edit button instead of double posting.


----------



## ragugh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131180

That's the Vanilla.

It's a P35 chipset, OCs further, scores better in benchmarks, slightly more mature SLI, and OCs quads better -- future safe.

And btw -- in the future, just use the edit button instead of double posting.









bah, i edited 2 times already
lol
i decided after 2 edits, it was time to make a new post lolz.

EDIT:
i do have some complaints about this vanilla.
the IDE spot is in a horrible location. my disc drives are at top.
and there is only one IDE controller (bye bye linux drive)
lol
plus its not black (i know, ***** and moan, ***** and moan.)
but really, how is the SLI moar advanced?
oen slot only goes x4....


----------



## Blizzie

Corsair makes PSUs? Never knew that.
















And yea.. IDE all the way on the bottom. Depends if you're going to mod your case.. But it's trouble. =/


----------



## ragugh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


 Corsair makes PSUs? Never knew that.

















yep. and ive been told they are DAMN good lol.
(i was showed it when i asked soemone abotu antec neohe PSUs, the corsair ones are almost the same, some would say better. etc.)


----------



## mchutch

Can anyone tell me by experience what BIOS versions have locked and unlocked multipliers? I had 0505 out of the box and have flashed to the beta 0607 and the now current 0608. I have an OCZ Vindicator....tight fit with the SilenX Ixtrema NB chipset cooler. CPU temps are very low about 28*C idle and want to OC my C2D, but I have to raise FSB frequency so high because CPU multiplier when changed always reverts back to 9. I'm leaving RAM unlinked @ 800MHz until I figure out CPU sweet spot and NB temps are 37*C when OC'd to 1066MHz. I need to be able to change that multi though to get a great CPU OC. Any and all help welcome, but I want to know by experience, tried and tested, which BIOS versions allow you to change the multiplier.


----------



## Mussels

0401 and 0608 are the only unlocked ones. tested and confirmed both with my E6600, as i run 424*8

Edit: i half asked before, does anyone have good tips for ram OC on this board? my ram is stable in memtest, just not windows. It seems running un-linked makes it more unstable than anything else.

advice would be welcome.


----------



## icex

ok guys, i'm new to overclocking and i read u guys thread and seems to make some sense, but i got problem wiht my q6600 2.4ghz, and i have it overclocked to 3ghz (333x9) with a p5n-e sli motherboard with ocz ddr2 800 platinum rev 2 timings 4-4-4-15, i had to down clock them to 667 ,to get a ratio 1:1, i changed the timings to 4-4-4-8, and i upped my Vcore 1.45v and ram at 2.15v, i can only run prime95 for about 2-3 hours and than i get an error , or my computer would just restart. i also have a 400watt forton sparkle psu. My temps are idle 45C and 54C on load , is there a problem im missing here? need your help


----------



## Mussels

you might need higher Vcore. I have the same ram as you and it runs 4-4-4-15, not 4-4-4-8, you might want to adjust that.

Fortron might be good, but i dont think a 400W is going to cut it in that system either, sudden restarts are common for a stressed out PSU.


----------



## mchutch

I don't think 0608 is unlocked, flashed to it and still defaults multi to 9x. I knew I read before that an earlier one was ....being 0401 so I'll try that.

And Icex, your PSU is most likely the issue. You need a 550W or better. Try to get a triple 12V, will allow for upgrades and over clocking.


----------



## Sairai

I haven't read the whole thread, 300 is pretty much.

My brother got his components yesterday and we set everything together and tried to start it, fan started but nothing else (anything could be wrong). After reading through all manuals I tried replacing the memory sticks in other slots. Only when both OCZ Platinum XTC were in the two black slots it booted. Installing windows looked like it would work, but while it copied file to the HD the computer rebooted. We tried again and it rebooted again but not at the same file. Tried again, and it rebooted randomly. After a couple of hours he managed to get all files copied to the HD and the installation could be completed.

He updated Bios and installed all newest drivers, but he's got random reboots and freezes sometimes (around 4-5 in one day). He tried to move the memory sticks now with the new BIOS, they work in the yellow slots now too, but only if both are in the same color slots. He's got no plans to overclock unless it's necessary.

Is there any common way to solve the reboots and freezes, or is it anything with this memory (I've heard some complaining about OCZ Platinum not working at all)?

The computer consists of:
ASUS P5N-E SLI
Intel Core2Duo E6750
OCZ High Performance Platinum XTC 800mhz (2x1GB)
XFX GeForce 8800 eXTreme 320mb
Samsung 400GB
Noctua NH-U12F
Corsair Power Supply 520W


----------



## icex

Thanks for ur quick replies, i seem to have got it to work by changing my ram timings to 4-4-4-10, i have ran prime 95 for 8 hours and not a single error, for my psu, if i have any error i will definately look forward to getting a new one but for now i'll live with it, will keep u posted


----------



## The Pook

If I had a car.
And gas money.
And knew where Asus was.

I'd drive there, and slap every last employee in the face with my P5N-E. It'd probably work better too.

They send back recertified boards to people that RMA. What the %$($? *MINE HAS ONE WORKING RAM SLOT FFS.* Do they even check it!?

Jesus.

*Files RMA again*


----------



## abz

LOL bad luck pook


----------



## The Pook

Damn skippy.


----------



## Asce

Unlucky Pook, hopefully you will get a full working board next time


----------



## Mussels

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mchutch*


I don't think 0608 is unlocked, flashed to it and still defaults multi to 9x. I knew I read before that an earlier one was ....being 0401 so I'll try that.

And Icex, your PSU is most likely the issue. You need a 550W or better. Try to get a triple 12V, will allow for upgrades and over clocking.


It definately IS unlocked. My CPU wont boot at 3.8Ghz, and i'm on 424*8 = 3.4GHz

I can take pics of it in the bios with a digicam or something if people dont want to beleive me, it even says in the release notes that conroe CPU's can now change the multis (they call it something else in the release notes, its related to speedstep)


----------



## NintendoSensei

Just ordered this board this afternoon with my Ballistix, anything i should look out for, negatively?


----------



## mchutch

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mussels* 
It definately IS unlocked. My CPU wont boot at 3.8Ghz, and i'm on 424*8 = 3.4GHz

I can take pics of it in the bios with a digicam or something if people dont want to beleive me, it even says in the release notes that conroe CPU's can now change the multis (they call it something else in the release notes, its related to speedstep)

Not doubting you, just trying to figure this out. I have a Intel Core 2 Duo E4300, it's Allendale but CPU-Z, Everest and other programs say it's a Conroe. Anyways...are all multi's unlocked or does it have to be Conroe core. I flashed to 0608 and whenever I leave the BIOS, multi reverts back to 9x. Any and all help welcome...


----------



## Asce

You will only be able to change the multi to a lower number. Dpawl and Pook lets see if you two can work this out, when shutting down Window XP it somethings hangs and i have to hold the power button down in order to turn it off, atm its alright but knowing my rig it will start doing it again soon.


----------



## Mussels

Asce: on 0608 i get the same thing, it shuts down and sits on a black screen, tapping the power button finishes the shut down. It seems to do this to me only when OC'd.

Mchutch: Sounds like you're using the wrong multis.. the chips only allow downwards a few notches, EG my conroe can use 6 7 8 and 9 on this board, my allendale (E4400) has the same options, but with 10 as well.

Try lowering it just one from your stock, see how that goes.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mussels* 
Asce: on 0608 i get the same thing, it shuts down and sits on a black screen, tapping the power button finishes the shut down. It seems to do this to me only when OC'd.

Im on 0307, too lazy to flash it. I get it where it says its shutting down and then it hangs and it also shut the keyboard and mice down as well. I get it all the time no matter what settings im running at.


----------



## DonNiger

Hi, I'm buck from my nice long-long vocation.

Update me with the new bios (608). As I saw from Asus homepage, some bugs should be fixed:
P5N-E SLI BIOS Release Version 0608
1. Fix it fails to change ratio by EIST when using certin Conroe CPU.
2. Reduce S3 resume time.
3. Support new CPUs. Please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...5N-E%20SLI
4. Add USB 2.0 support under DOS.
5. Enhance memory compatibility.
6. Enhance USB device compatibility.
7. Fix it shows incorrect L1 and L2 cache size when using Conroe-L CPU.

But is it really so? Does the multiple unlocked for E6700?


----------



## Praeses

I just ordered:
P5N-E SLi
E6550
2 x 1GB Mushkin EM2
60mm "stealth" fan for northbridge (which i'll have to tape on or something







)

I already have:
Coolermaster Centurion 5 Case
Coolermaster iGreen 600W PSU
Gainward Geforce 8800GTS 640MB

I should get the motherboard and CPU on monday and the memory + fan sometime next week. I can't wait!


----------



## mchutch

Gotta love forums, thanks guys, time to try that out.


----------



## TriBeCa

...and I'm back!

As the summer has heated up here in Manhattan, I've been having some stability issues with my OC (which you can see in my system). I'm quite sure this is heat related, but I'm not sure which component is overheating. CPU cores are only hitting ~64C, so I'm not convinced it's them, though I wasn't having issues at lower temps. might be my northbridge, as i just have the stock heatsink with AS5 on it.

earlier in the summer i started running into issues, and i drilled holes in the side of the case over where I'd mounted a side-panel fan, so it would intake new air. this dropped temps ~5C and bought me some time, but temps are going up again. when i'm not at home and the AC is off, the cores idle at 40C at STOCK SETTINGS. that sucks.

so, i've been helping a friend put together a new rig, and got all excited looking at his CPU cooler (mine is quiet, but basically sucks). so now i'm thinking i might replace all of the cooling in my p5n-e.

Here's my plan, I'd love comments and whether ya'll think I should go for it.

1. Put the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme on the CPU.

2. Put my last PC's CPU cooler on the northbridge.

3. Put a heatsink on the southbridge. Can someone recommend a heatsink that is guarenteed to fit with an 8800 GTS? There appears to very little room for error here....

4. Considering a tube of IC Diamond 7 Carat instead of AS5. Apparently it achieves about 4C lower than AS5...but the two reviews (here and here) that say this both look suspiciously like manufacturer-sponsered reviews to me...I dunno. And apparently it's hard to apply. Thoughts on this would be appreciated....

edit: I meant to ask: should I update my BIOS? Multi's are unlocked the latest BIOS? I'll be trying to push my FSB up further once I improve my cooling situation (currently at 400)...so being able to drop the multi down might help....


----------



## Asce

I would say option 1 since you really dont want to be hitting more the 60°c


----------



## TriBeCa

i was gonna do ALL of them.... since i have to remove the mobo from the case to do #1 i might as well replace the NB heatsink with an active cooler and stick a heatsink on the SB.

So...still looking for a SB heatsink recommendation, and any thoughts on the IC Diamond 7 Carat....

edit: next post is reply #3000! Someone do it!


----------



## Asce

I would get this for your SB as it will also allow you to go Sli in the future without replacing it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835425007


----------



## TriBeCa

looks great. p'rhaps i'll just stick with AS5 instead of messing about with that other stuff. i'm thinking i'll lap that CPU cooler and the top of the CPU as well...might as well if i'm go to the trouble of putting a new cooler on there.


----------



## Asce

You wouldnt need to lap it if your temps with the Ultra 120 are good. My Tuniq keeps my E6420 under 45°c even with 1.45 pumping through the vcore. Just make sure you get a good fan to put on the Extreme


----------



## TriBeCa

i'll be putting two standard 120mm case fans on it, one on each side, set to exhaust towards the rear case exhaust fan. i've been snooping around in the intel cooling forum here, where people have been discussing lapping that cooler. looks like they're getting good results. i don't mind spending a few hours on it if it's gonna give me even another 4C to play with. once i replace all the cooling i'm gonna try pushing my OC a little further, so i'd rather not have to pull it off again and lap it if my temps go back up to where they are now.

and yeah, my vcore is at 1.45 as well...i'll be laughing if I can get my load temps down to 45C. what's your NB voltage at? I assume you're at a 400FSB like me...I had to put my NB volts to the max in order to get stable at 400FSB. tried everything, but it was the only option.


----------



## DonNiger

Have a new toy to play; E2160. But Ithink 4 gigs wont be possible. Alredy added 1,57v



E: some improvement, 100+% OC: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=224503


----------



## Asce

You've had to put it that high, im only at 1.5 but then again i do have a thermalright HR-05 on the NB cooling it. Plus it helps that ive got a HUGE case


----------



## TriBeCa

nice OC don. think you can manage 3.6, for a 100% OC?

asce...do you think I should go with a better cooler for the nb than the one i was planning on? not sure exactly what it is, but it was some aftermarket cooler I bought 4 years ago. 1.5" tall 30-fin copper heatsink with a 70mm fan sitting on it.


----------



## Boggs

I need assistance overclocking my ram and cpu. I change the voltage on my cpu, I have all the utilities i believe i need, cpuz, speedfan, orthos etc. what else do i need and can someone help me overclock my 2.13 e6420 core 2 duo from 2.13 to 3.0? and im also using gskill 2gb of ram. with a 8800 GTS 640 MB.


----------



## TriBeCa

at the top of the page, go to "User CP" and then, on the left side of the page, click "edit system" (or add system, or something). fill in your details there so we can see it more easily (like you see on mine).

first off, make sure you have windows installed and updated and all that at stock settings. you don't want to OC 'till you've done that, because any system instability can screw up the windows install and make your system unstable no matter WHAT you do. once you've done this, install motherboard drivers, video card drivers, and all that jazz. you'll probably also want to update your bios (I haven't updated mine in a while and can't actually remember what version I'm using, so others can warn if there's any to be wary of).

next, you'll want to go in and manually set everything relevant in the BIOS to stock settings manually, so that you can then go in and step things up piece by piece.

if you're new to this, which I assume you are, the first thing you need to know is that rated FSB on intel chips is quadrupled, and RAM speed is doubled. This means that the actual FSB on your e6420 is 266 (1066/4) and, if your ram is 800MHz (for example) the actual FSB is 400. check what your default CPU voltage is with Speedfan or CPU-Z after a vanilla boot (without editing BIOS settings). i'm not sure, but it's probably 1.328 like my e6400. Set your RAM voltage and timing manually to manufacturers spec, as this can save you stability problem (and this board NEVER detects RAM timings properly).

go here to look at the bios options you wanna be fiddling with (but don't go setting them to what they have). like I said, just set everything to stock at first. AI tuning=manual, vcore and mem voltage to manufacturer default, NB volts to the minimum. set the mem clock mode to unlinked, and FSB to 1066 and Mem to whatever your ram is (800 if it's PC2-6400, etc). also, as i said, set your memory timing to whatever manufacturer spec is. this board usually defaults to loose timings that can actually cause stability problems (sure did with me on my first set of chips). command per clock must be at 2T (for now).

save those settings and boot into windows to make sure you didn't screw anything up. i'd also recommend at least 1 minute of orthos here, to rule out any baseline instability. 10 minutes is better, but not really required.

now...time to start OCing. if you have a thumb drive, save each setting as your progress. if you don't, keep your manual stock settings saved in one of the OC profile slots, and your last succesful boot into windows in the other (that means save after you've rebooted after a succesful boot, before you change anything else).

now, you want to start increasing the FSB on your CPU (leave the multi alone). set it to 1200 and try booting, you shouldn't have any problems. again, i recomend 1 minute of orthos after each boot, as you'll identify problems sooner this way.

now, keep incrementing your FSB by 25 (1225, 1250, 1275, etc) and booting into windows after each increment. eventually you'll run into a problem, usually a system hang while the system boots (or maybe an orthos error), or a total failure to POST). this is generally a sign you need to increase your vcore. up the vcore by one notch, and try again. you're not OCing your RAM yet, so you shouldn't encounter and problems with it, but if you DO get a BSOD (blue screen of death) that's almost always a RAM problem. otherwise, you should be able to keep going with more vcore. be sure to use speedfan to monitor your temps, definately don't let your core temps get over 70C.

at some point you'll have to increase your NB voltage. you'll know because several vcore increases won't do a damn thing for you. go ahead and up as needed. I've been told that the highest setting definately reduces the life of your mobo, but it's not clear by how much. unless you're planning on using your board for 6+ years, I wouldn't worry about it.

that's all i got for now, though of course of there's always more to know.... let us know how you fare, and if you run into problems. good luck!


----------



## Kai-

For a SB cooler with a 8800GTS get the Zalman NB32K. I've got one in my rig. Its right up against the big cooler on the GTS, which is good, since I think it gets some air going through it from the turbine fan. Its pretty much room temp whenever i touch it


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kai-* 
For a SB cooler with a 8800GTS get the Zalman NB32K. I've got one in my rig. Its right up against the big cooler on the GTS, which is good, since I think it gets some air going through it from the turbine fan. Its pretty much room temp whenever i touch it

I have a similar system spec. Do you tilt the heatsink at at angle? Or Just set it the same direction as the chipset?


----------



## Pimpmydesktop

hey i just got a p5n-e sli 650i and was wondering if anyone could give me some advice, if a move all my existing components over to the new mobo will i have to re-install windows vista? please can someone advise?? thanks.


----------



## Asce

Yes you will unless you know how to uninstall the motherboard drivers so you can move your hard drive across


----------



## Kai-

Its the same direction as the chipset.


----------



## TriBeCa

i would NEVER recommend replacing a mobo without reinstalling the OS...too much that can go wrong.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kai-* 
Its the same direction as the chipset.

Well he doesnt say if it from another P5Ne or not.


----------



## dpawl31

Asce- Kai was talking about the direction of the heatsink - did you quote the wrong post? lol









PMD- I definately suggest a fresh install anyway- most likely it would not even load a windows install from an old motherboard, and if it did, it would be flakey. It could work, but it's not recommended at all. Just do a fresh install


----------



## Betrivent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


...and I'm back!

As the summer has heated up here in Manhattan, I've been having some stability issues with my OC (which you can see in my system). I'm quite sure this is heat related, but I'm not sure which component is overheating. CPU cores are only hitting ~64C, so I'm not convinced it's them, though I wasn't having issues at lower temps. might be my northbridge, as i just have the stock heatsink with AS5 on it.

earlier in the summer i started running into issues, and i drilled holes in the side of the case over where I'd mounted a side-panel fan, so it would intake new air. this dropped temps ~5C and bought me some time, but temps are going up again. when i'm not at home and the AC is off, the cores idle at 40C at STOCK SETTINGS. that sucks.

so, i've been helping a friend put together a new rig, and got all excited looking at his CPU cooler (mine is quiet, but basically sucks). so now i'm thinking i might replace all of the cooling in my p5n-e.

Here's my plan, I'd love comments and whether ya'll think I should go for it.

1. Put the Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme on the CPU.

2. Put my last PC's CPU cooler on the northbridge.

3. Put a heatsink on the southbridge. Can someone recommend a heatsink that is guarenteed to fit with an 8800 GTS? There appears to very little room for error here....

4. Considering a tube of IC Diamond 7 Carat instead of AS5. Apparently it achieves about 4C lower than AS5...but the two reviews (here and here) that say this both look suspiciously like manufacturer-sponsered reviews to me...I dunno. And apparently it's hard to apply. Thoughts on this would be appreciated....

edit: I meant to ask: should I update my BIOS? Multi's are unlocked the latest BIOS? I'll be trying to push my FSB up further once I improve my cooling situation (currently at 400)...so being able to drop the multi down might help....


Err.. the e6420s have issues going over 60* Celcius.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Asce- Kai was talking about the direction of the heatsink - did you quote the wrong post? lol









Opps the sun has gotten to me









Betrivent, he doesnt have the 6420 as he has the 6400 and mine hasnt reached 60°c yet even with an ambient of 27°c


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## willhub

Hi, well I'm pulling my hair out with this mobo.

I thought my CPU was doing 3.2Ghz at 1.45V, but coz of ther Vdropp its 1.38V, and load temp is 58 degrees and idle is 30, or on a cool day 28 idle and 55 load.

Also I'm getting silly low transfer rates here, 4.0MB/Sec whilst trying to transfer large files, I've tried everything, I only have one SATA II HDD now, and I am running Windows Vista Ultimate, the HDD is Western Digital Caviar 320GB SE16.

I dont know if the mobo is faulty though, has it got some problems with HD2900XT's aswell?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Betrivent*


Err.. the e6420s have issues going over 60* Celcius.


what about the e6400s? ...see my system specs....


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Hi, well I'm pulling my hair out with this mobo.

I thought my CPU was doing 3.2Ghz at 1.45V, but coz of ther Vdropp its 1.38V, and load temp is 58 degrees and idle is 30, or on a cool day 28 idle and 55 load.

Also I'm getting silly low transfer rates here, 4.0MB/Sec whilst trying to transfer large files, I've tried everything, I only have one SATA II HDD now, and I am running Windows Vista Ultimate, the HDD is Western Digital Caviar 320GB SE16.

I dont know if the mobo is faulty though, has it got some problems with HD2900XT's aswell?

does speedfan or w/e report 1.38 all the time, or only under load? Cause you shouldn't be seeing vdroop when idling.... I remember when I was getting my OC going I was having stability issues (well, orthos error after 4-6hours) when I vdroop'd to 1.38. But once I pushed the vcore up to 1.45 the vdroop never went below 1.41, and I was rock solid.

Don't know what to tell you about those transfer rates. That's *definately* not normal for the board....


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
does speedfan or w/e report 1.38 all the time, or only under load? Cause you shouldn't be seeing vdroop when idling.... I remember when I was getting my OC going I was having stability issues (well, orthos error after 4-6hours) when I vdroop'd to 1.38. But once I pushed the vcore up to 1.45 the vdroop never went below 1.41, and I was rock solid.

Don't know what to tell you about those transfer rates. That's *definately* not normal for the board....

Hi.

Its only when its at load, I am sure I've got 8 hours orthos stable, I tried 3.4Ghz at 1.55V, but it still was not stable, I think it actually needs 1.55V and not whatever it was at Vdroop, was not aware it was like this as bad.

I think I may need to RMA the mobo, I dunno, I also saved my Bios using the Asus O.C Profile, and I loaded defaults, and the Bios went crazy, I am using the latestet Bios, and I was scrolling down, and then it was as if the down arrow got stuck, but was not, then the Bios crashed on me, had to either load my Overclock, but in the end was so unstable the Bios, it would not boot properly, had to reset Cmos using jumpers.


----------



## TriBeCa

the BIOS is not totally protected. when I was in the process of discovering that my OCZ platinum's weren't compatible with the board I experienced dozens of system hangs while trying to edit BIOS settings.

are you saying you can't get it to work under default BIOS settings?

also, what's your northbridge voltage at? I had to max mine out to get stable at 375 FSB and over (iirc, might've been more like 387.5). i seriously doubt your chip needs 1.55V to be stable at 377.7 FSB.

also, i seem to recall someone here (like 2000 posts ago or so), i think it was pook, saying they experienced much better vdroop when they manually decreased the vdimm to close to min spec. i believe they were saying the board was oversupplying the ram, so reducing it improved situation everywhere else.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


the BIOS is not totally protected. when I was in the process of discovering that my OCZ platinum's weren't compatible with the board I experienced dozens of system hangs while trying to edit BIOS settings.

are you saying you can't get it to work under default BIOS settings?

also, what's your northbridge voltage at? I had to max mine out to get stable at 375 FSB and over (iirc, might've been more like 387.5). i seriously doubt your chip needs 1.55V to be stable at 377.7 FSB.

also, i seem to recall someone here (like 2000 posts ago or so), i think it was pook, saying they experienced much better vdroop when they manually decreased the vdimm to close to min spec. i believe they were saying the board was oversupplying the ram, so reducing it improved situation everywhere else.


It seems like I need the NB at 1.7V to get my ram stable at 2.35V 4-4-4-15 1000Mhz, 3.2Ghz 1.45V on the CPU, so what do I need to do on the Vdimm? lower the voltage?

Well yea the bios was crashing at default, had to load by oc bios, but once I reset the Cmos by the jumper on the mobo the Bios was fine.

Tbh, my main problem is low transfer rates on the HDD, I wont be doing much untill it is solved, wontplay games, so I need to solve this or maybe RMA my mobo and get a better more stable one. Dunno if there is something in Windows Vista I need to enable/disable to get propor speed on my HDD, or even install some more drivers?


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, sorry i can't help with the HDD transfer rates. never encountered anything like that before, and haven't used vista....

1.7V on the NB is in line with my experience. 2.35V is crazy high on the vdimm though...did you set that, or is that with the BIOS setting on auto? if you can lower that and stay stable, I would for sure.... nice OC on the RAM though.


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## willhub

2.25V is stock for the ram, 2.35V was needed, 2.25V and I got crashing all the time.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
does speedfan or w/e report 1.38 all the time, or only under load? Cause you shouldn't be seeing vdroop when idling.... I remember when I was getting my OC going I was having stability issues (well, orthos error after 4-6hours) when I vdroop'd to 1.38. But once I pushed the vcore up to 1.45 the vdroop never went below 1.41, and I was rock solid.

Don't know what to tell you about those transfer rates. That's *definately* not normal for the board....

Yes, you _should_ see some vdroop from BIOS voltage when in XP.
If you set to 1.45 in BIOS, you should expect to see something along the lines of 1.41v when idle in XP, and 1.38v under load is normal. This board has pretty rough vdroop, there is a mod for it... but in any case - droop is normal, and expected. If you use the +100mv option, it can reduce droop (ie set vcore to 1.35v and use +100mv to bring you to 1.45v)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Hi.

Its only when its at load, I am sure I've got 8 hours orthos stable, I tried 3.4Ghz at 1.55V, but it still was not stable, I think it actually needs 1.55V and not whatever it was at Vdroop, was not aware it was like this as bad.

I think I may need to RMA the mobo, I dunno, I also saved my Bios using the Asus O.C Profile, and I loaded defaults, and the Bios went crazy, I am using the latestet Bios, and I was scrolling down, and then it was as if the down arrow got stuck, but was not, then the Bios crashed on me, had to either load my Overclock, but in the end was so unstable the Bios, it would not boot properly, had to reset Cmos using jumpers.

I don't believe you should be needing that high a vcore for that overclock, what are your motherboard temps like, how is your NB/SB cooled, and have you tried lowering your LDT frequency? Also - what BIOS are you on?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
It seems like I need the NB at 1.7V to get my ram stable at 2.35V 4-4-4-15 1000Mhz, 3.2Ghz 1.45V on the CPU, so what do I need to do on the Vdimm? lower the voltage?
Well yea the bios was crashing at default, had to load by oc bios, but once I reset the Cmos by the jumper on the mobo the Bios was fine.

Tbh, my main problem is low transfer rates on the HDD, I wont be doing much untill it is solved, wontplay games, so I need to solve this or maybe RMA my mobo and get a better more stable one. Dunno if there is something in Windows Vista I need to enable/disable to get propor speed on my HDD, or even install some more drivers?

Your RAM, from what I can tell - is 2.2v stock, not 2.25. And why in gods name are you at 1000Mhz? Running in 1:1 (for stability) you don't need your ram that high for sure, unless you are @ 500FSB...








I can not give you any advice on the speeds from your hard drive, but, I am sure someone around here is a hard drive techy. Try PMing USlatin, he's got a wicked Hard drive array, constantly benching them, and has a 6x0i board.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
yeah, sorry i can't help with the HDD transfer rates. never encountered anything like that before, and haven't used vista....

1.7V on the NB is in line with my experience. 2.35V is crazy high on the vdimm though...did you set that, or is that with the BIOS setting on auto? if you can lower that and stay stable, I would for sure.... nice OC on the RAM though.

2.35v is nothing really, for a 2.2v RAM set, but, he shouldn't need to be running them @ 1000Mhz either... 2.35v for 1000Mhz from 667 RAM is not too bad.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
2.25V is stock for the ram, 2.35V was needed, 2.25V and I got crashing all the time.

I think you need to try this:
Before I go giving you recommendations on where to go from here, I need to know what your cooling situation is, and the answers to the other questions above


----------



## willhub

Ok, well I am at 1000Mhz coz its obviously faster than 667Mhz, I have it set to unlinked, I did not think I needed to use linked.

On the NB I am cooling it with the stock Heatsink and a 60mm fan on it aswell. I know it is 2.2V stock, but since there is no 2.2V in bios I refer to it at 2.25V stock on this mobo.

I think the mobo temp is 37 atm.

For my CPU, my cooling is an OCZ Vindicator with a Hiper 120mm fan on, on a decent day it is 55 load, 28 idle at 3.2Ghz 1.45V in bios, so 1.38V.


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## dpawl31

Use the 2.178v option, not the 2.259v option. It's much closer to 2.2v than the other one.

Is your SB bare?

As far as your memory - 1000mhz is obviously faster - but it doesn't mean it's your best bet.
You should attain your highest overclock with 1:1, then after finding your MAX CPU OC, push your RAM further.
With your 9x multi, 3.2ghz you are running 356Mhz FSB (effectively 1424 in BIOS) and your RAM should be @ 712 in BIOS (1424/4 or 356*2)
*Try this:*
Drop LDT to 4x
vcore 1.35v and turn +100mv ON.
Set RAM to stock timings, vdimm of 2.259v (because we are going to overclock it a little)
Set FSB to 1500Mhz
Set RAM to 750Mhz

If you post- which I think you will- you will be @ 3.375Ghz, 
and running 1:1 (375Mhz FSB x4=QDR1500, 375Mhz RAM x2 = DDR2-750)

Hope it works


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## willhub

Ok, thanks for all this help









Will do it in about 15 mins and then post back the results







.


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## dpawl31

Hope you don't screw it all up







lol
Good luck, I think you'll be fine


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## willhub

Well, it got to Windows, then got a BSOD saying unrecoverable hardware error or soemthing, had to revert back to stock, will try one more time ot be sure though.


----------



## dpawl31

Try it without adjusting LDT


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pimpmydesktop*


hey i just got a p5n-e sli 650i and was wondering if anyone could give me some advice, if a move all my existing components over to the new mobo will i have to re-install windows vista? please can someone advise?? thanks.


I'm running Windows XP and moved over without a reinstall. Everything works fine, I'd say even better.







I just needed to re-activate of course.

Up to you though. Back up all your stuff and try without a reinstall and see if everything works fine. If not, reinstall I suppose.


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## AzN1337c0d3r

Just wanted to let yall know my board does 500 FSB fine @ 1.563v on the northbridge voltage.

I'm afraid to push it harder due to the SB getting really hot. Will purchase a cooler for it (need to find one which is SLI compatible, as I plan to run dual 7900 GTs soon). Yes I saw the post on the first page, and no I can't find those coolers locally.

Also, the NB is ridiculously hot at stock volts even after replacing it with a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II although PC Probe only reads it at about 47C!?. Im not sure if the board will be happy upping the voltage to 1.74v.


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## dpawl31

Nice to hear!
Are you doing 500FSB on your e6420?
Show some pics!


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## willhub

Does the SB actually get really hot?

And dont all seem to like 500fsb or something?


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## Asce

If his is bare then it probably get hot, something like a small hsf will be great to cool it.


----------



## Hajpoj

Can anyone help me get started on this board? No overclock seems to work, but stock settings work.

My goal is to hit 3.2GHZ with this chip on air.
I also ripped the southbridge HS off my old P5PL2 board and attached it on this one.

E2140 1.6ghz L2 stepping
2GB of DDR2 800 Crucial Value Ram 
Zalman 9500


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## TriBeCa

hajpoj, go to your control panel (User CP at the top of the page) and click 'edit system' over on the left. put your details in there so it's easier to see what you've got as people try to help you out.

first off..when you say no overclock seems to work, what exactly are you doing? you've gotta start in small steps. first set everything manually to stock settings (vcore, vdimm, cpu and ram clocks, ram timings, all that stuff), and then slowly push your FSB up in 25MHz steps. after each time you push it up, make sure you can boot into windows. once you fail to boot, go back to the BIOS and up the vcore by one notch at a time until you get into windows. keep that going and see how far you can get.... at some point you may have to up the voltage on the NB as well.


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## willhub

How do I attach a fan to the SB since there is no screw holes?


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## TriBeCa

...look again? there ARE holes....


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


...look again? there ARE holes....



Ah my bad, I can only see one, the 2900 must be in the way of the other one







, guess it means I cant get something on?


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## TriBeCa

i'm getting the fan and sinks asce recommended earlier (look back a few pages, don't wanna find the link again)...dunno how close the 2900 is to the board, but it looks to me like there's room under my 8800 for something very flat. if you wanna wait a couple days I can verify for certain that they fit. they're supposed to come thursday.


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## Asce

I love the one on my SB as its soo cold to touch. Will anything that has a low profile should be able to fit underneath it, my Akasa chipset cooler will be touch and go to fit under a 2900 as it has a small 40mm fan included on it but, you should be if you are not using the second pci-e slot.

Hajpoj, you may want to get to 3.2Ghz but it depends on your chip wanting to do those kind of speeds. Dont got over 1.5v on the vcore unless you have lots of money for a new chip


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## willhub

Does the SB really need a cooling soloution when it dont get overclocked?


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## Hajpoj

I'm in windows at 3.0 GHZ w/ 1.425 vcore in bios

But nothing over 375 FSB will post, I've even upped the vcore to 1.5 and nothing.

SO CLOSE TO 100% overclock :swearing:


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*










Try it without adjusting LDT


Right, I adjusted the LDT to 5x again, so these are the settings I used:

Vcore: 1.35V + 100MV
Ram: 2.259V
FSB: 1500
Ram: 750 5-5-5-15 (High latencys so I could be sure the ram was not a cause)

It botted into Windows fine from what it seems, as soon as I started Orthos, within about 5 seconds I got a BSOD.


----------



## Hajpoj

Stressing right now. Failed after 2 min in orthos.

Upped the Vcore one notch. Testing again.

43-45 idle temps, load appears to be 62~63 under orthos using core temp.

RM CPU clock is reporting 49~51 load temps....I'm confused here...

System locked up after 10 minutes, upped the vcore one more notch.


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## Hajpoj

If it boots into windows fine at 1.425, but everything has crashed from there...trying 1.45 now...


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## Hajpoj

Trying 1.45 now....


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## Hajpoj

Uh oh, load temps are 70-73.....too high?


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## TriBeCa

Nice to see you two are making progress.

Hajpoj: what's your NB at? You may have to up it. for my e6400 to run more than a few minutes at 375+ FSB I had to have my NB at >1.7V. Hopefully you don't have to go that high, but I'd be surprised if you didn't need to be at 1.5V.

willhub: set your RAM to stock timings. this board does not like loose timings at all, and BSOD = 95% probability RAM is the problem. if stock timings don't work, it's probably the OC. I'd really recommend setting your RAM manually to stock clock speed as well, and just OCing your CPU. once you get the CPU OC you'd like, you can fiddle with the RAM. doing one at a time is preferable as it's much, much easier to troubleshoot.... yes the 1:1 timings you have right now are great, but get the OC's stable one at a time....


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## TriBeCa

70-73 is too high, yes...though i'm not specifically familiar with the tolerance of your chip. you're gonna have to improve your cooling situation somehow if you want to go that high....


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## Hajpoj

I'm trying 2900MHZ with 1.4 vcore load temps of 62

My NB is 1.5ish?

Can it take 1.7 with the stock NB HS?


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## Hajpoj

2900 seems to my chips' max. Not bad for free performance.


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## dpawl31

hajpoj - please use the EDIT POST feature!


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Nice to see you two are making progress.

Hajpoj: what's your NB at? You may have to up it. for my e6400 to run more than a few minutes at 375+ FSB I had to have my NB at >1.7V. Hopefully you don't have to go that high, but I'd be surprised if you didn't need to be at 1.5V.

willhub: set your RAM to stock timings. this board does not like loose timings at all, and BSOD = 95% probability RAM is the problem. if stock timings don't work, it's probably the OC. I'd really recommend setting your RAM manually to stock clock speed as well, and just OCing your CPU. once you get the CPU OC you'd like, you can fiddle with the RAM. doing one at a time is preferable as it's much, much easier to troubleshoot.... yes the 1:1 timings you have right now are great, but get the OC's stable one at a time....


Hi.

So shall I try setting ram to 667Mhz: 3-3-3-12.
FSB: 1500
Ram: 667
Vcore: 1.35V + 100MV
Ramvoltage:2.2V
LDT: 5x


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah wilhub, let us know how that works....

hajpoj...I've been using 1.7 with the stock heatsink, although I did reseat it with AS5. The stuff ASUS uses is garbage. I've been getting stability issues with high ambient temps (25C+), and I'm not sure if they're CPU or NB issues, but my OC was rock solid with ambient temps at 20-22C. I've been told that 1.7 is known to shorten the life of the chipset regardless of temps, but it's not known by how much. if you're not planning on using the board for more than 4-5 years (and who the hell is??) it shouldn't be a problem though.


----------



## Hajpoj

I'm a gamer, so I expect to upgrade to penryn in 2 years or so.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yeah wilhub, let us know how that works....

hajpoj...I've been using 1.7 with the stock heatsink, although I did reseat it with AS5. The stuff ASUS uses is garbage. I've been getting stability issues with high ambient temps (25C+), and I'm not sure if they're CPU or NB issues, but my OC was rock solid with ambient temps at 20-22C. I've been told that 1.7 is known to shorten the life of the chipset regardless of temps, but it's not known by how much. if you're not planning on using the board for more than 4-5 years (and who the hell is??) it shouldn't be a problem though.


Ok, well I tried ram at stock, CPU at 3.37, 1.35V + 100MV, BSOD after like 10 seconds on Orthos.


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## TriBeCa

run a full cycle of tests in memtest with everything at stock...make sure there's nothing wrong with the RAM or the RAM/mobo combination. if that works fine, try keeping the RAM at stock and doing the CPU OC again and running memtest again (should be fine, but just to make sure). if all that's fine it's either your CPU or northbridge...but that fact that you're BSODing and not just locking up or encountering errors makes me think it's the RAM.

edit: your ram isn't set to 1T (commands per clock) is it? it should be 2T until you get a stable OC....


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Nice to hear!
Are you doing 500FSB on your e6420?
Show some pics!

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem I'll be pushing 500 FSB on my 6420 unless I get some really good water cooling, maybe even thermoelectric in there. Right now, 3.6 GHz is the best moderately stable OC I can get, and it crashed after some hours of Orthos. Not sure if it's the weak power supply (Raidmax 420W? eww vdroop? I do believe my Vcore drops more than 0.15v! under load according to Asus probe, which I know is ****, but im afraid to solder stuff to my mobo) or maybe it's my lack of Southbridge cooling.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Does the SB actually get really hot?

And dont all seem to like 500fsb or something?

It does actually burn to touch it for more than half a second. I'm still trying to get my hands on something that will allow me room to upgrade to SLI, yet cools it decently.

Yes, I do believe most of the boards will do 500 FSB, but there's an FSB hole around 400-435 which is why we see some dismal overclocks, because some people think they've hit the max when they're not even close.

Temporary thread hijack: that Vizo cooler than someone posted earlier looks exactly like the one on the NB of my Socket 939 platform. It's an Abit KN8V1.1


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
70-73 is too high, yes...though i'm not specifically familiar with the tolerance of your chip. you're gonna have to improve your cooling situation somehow if you want to go that high....

Actually I've seen my chip do 87C... according to Asus PC Probe. It crashed shortly after though.


----------



## TriBeCa

i was getting orthos errors after 4-6 hours because of vdroop. once i put the last little bit of vcore in, so it never vdrooped as below 1.38 (iirc; been a while), i was solid for 8 hours and didn't test further than that.

also...use speedfan instead of asus probe?

if you're SB is that hot...i'd put something on it. that vizo cooler is *supposed* to fit with SLI'd 8800's...I'll confirm in a few days if it looks like it will, based on my one 8800.

and thanks for the info around the FSB hole! I suspected there might be one...i managed 400FSB but couldn't get a post above that. once I put the new cooling in if i'm having trouble over 400FSB i may try jumping past that range.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

The FSB hole on my board is not as pronounced as on some other boards. My first board would refuse to POST at 400-425 no matter what voltages I set. My current board will run stable but only at the highest voltage setting. After I get past that range I can drop the NB voltage back down to 1.39V and it'll be fine until 450 FSB or so which is when I need to up the NB voltage to the next setting (1.56?)

I'm actually typing from the computer as we speak. It's currently been running Orthos for 20 minutes and the CPU is at 75C and still going up -_- I set my VCore to 1.6V and +100 mV. Last night I ran 1.575 + 100 mV and it appears to have rebooted. Maybe the extra VCore will help it maintain stability at the higher temperatures. Then again, it might add more heat than it help stability. Will also look into the Speedfan program.


----------



## TriBeCa

speedfan is great, as it'll show you temp and voltage graphs so you can check what your temps were over a range of like an hour, while running orthos or w/e.

sounds like my board is just like your current one--i'm at max voltage on the NB, which I need to be stable at 400. If I can drop it down if I push past 425 or so I'll be thrilled. Once I test this stuff out this weekend, rep+ for sure if you're right!


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Looks like 1.6 VCore +100mV crashed. I lowered it to 1.55 and hoping it'll be stable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


speedfan is great, as it'll show you temp and voltage graphs so you can check what your temps were over a range of like an hour, while running orthos or w/e.

sounds like my board is just like your current one--i'm at max voltage on the NB, which I need to be stable at 400. If I can drop it down if I push past 425 or so I'll be thrilled. Once I test this stuff out this weekend, rep+ for sure if you're right!


You should try FSB overclocking as your first thing. Lower your CPU multi to 6x and LDT Multi to 2x then see how high you can pump your FSB. Thing is 6x500 is already 3 GHz and if you've got an unlucky C2D, you won't be able to boot at that speed.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Speedfan makes my Core 0 and Core 1 temperatures read as negative once I go over 85C lolz.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r*


Speedfan makes my Core 0 and Core 1 temperatures read as negative once I go over 85C lolz.


hahaha, can't say i've ever seen that ;p

i'll try FSB OCing. As you can see in my system specs my c2d does 3.2GHz just fine...but I haven't had anything stable over 400FSB. last I checked the multipliers weren't unlocked in my BIOS...but I hear the latest one is unlocked? ...I guess I should update?

though the first thing will be to make sure my previously stable OC works again once I put the new cooling in...don't know if you read back a few pages, but the increase in ambient temps in my apartment kinda killed my OC. I wanna get a new stable one now, while times at still at their annual max, so I can be sure i'll have rock solid OC 24/7/365....


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

What kinda ambient temps you have? My house is like 90F during the summers and my parents are airconditioning nazis which makes it a poor location for overclocking


----------



## mog

I'd like to buy a new motherboard.
I wonder if P5N-E SLI or P5K which is better?


----------



## Asce

Mog, do you plan on going Sli or not.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


run a full cycle of tests in memtest with everything at stock...make sure there's nothing wrong with the RAM or the RAM/mobo combination. if that works fine, try keeping the RAM at stock and doing the CPU OC again and running memtest again (should be fine, but just to make sure). if all that's fine it's either your CPU or northbridge...but that fact that you're BSODing and not just locking up or encountering errors makes me think it's the RAM.

edit: your ram isn't set to 1T (commands per clock) is it? it should be 2T until you get a stable OC....


I am back at 3.2Ghz 1.45V and I tested the Ram which was clocked at 1000Mhz 4-4-4-12, 2.35V and it had no errors, going to try the 3.37 overclock again. I did notice that this time I have to use 1501FSB, 1500FSB just would not boot, same for 1499fsb too, so I guess fsb hole?

I noticed that at high overclock on the ram before I upped the volts then the Windows crashed and the screen just froze, even with my 3700+ AMD when I did too high overclocks I got BSOD's too.

Yep my ram was at 2T.


----------



## mog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Mog, do you plan on going Sli or not.


I don't plan using SLI, crossfire or something like this. It is not fit my budget. I just like OC CPU.
I'm using P5N-E SLI (from my friend) it is verygood. But someone said P35 overclock better. I dont have good ram so i like Nfoce's "Unlink" feature so I dont care ram:fsb ratio . But in some review P35 got higher FSB.


----------



## Asce

I would say get the P5k since it oc's better but i have no clue if it has an unlink feature though.


----------



## willhub

It seems my CPU aint stable at 3.37 and 1.35V +100MV, I dunno if its the fsb or somthing, what next? try 8x Multiplyer?


----------



## Asce

Have you tried upping the vcore slightly


----------



## willhub

To how much, I mean is up to 1.5V safe? some people can get 3.4Ghz at 1.38V







.


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
To how much, I mean is up to 1.5V safe? some people can get 3.4Ghz at 1.38V







.

1.5v On air, wouldn't go there.

Highest I would go is 1.4 after vdrop.


----------



## willhub

1.45V load is about 60 degrees load in Orthos. Those Quad Cores put out more heat than Dual Cores.


----------



## Asce

Will what is your vcore set to and what are you loading at?

Murlocke im at 1.45 on air and im loading at 41°C when playing BF2142


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Will what is your vcore set to and what are you loading at?

Murlocke im at 1.45 on air and im loading at 41°C when playing BF2142


1.45v in bios is around 1.4 after the vdrop.

Even at 30C if your voltage is to high you can hurt your processor. 1.45v isnt going to probably hurt anything but it is higher than I would go on air.

How exactly are you testing that and what program are you using, that seems awfully cold for a TT and a overclock like that.


----------



## Asce

I have Coretemp running and i idle at 25°C when my ambient is 21°C


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Will what is your vcore set to and what are you loading at?

Murlocke im at 1.45 on air and im loading at 41°C when playing BF2142


At 3.37 my Vcore is set to 1.35 with the +100MV on.

At 1.38V load at 3.2 my idle temp is 28-30 and load is around 55, I am happy with a higher overclock even if the temps are 64-65, but I still need to figure out how exactly I'm gonna get to 3.4Ghz, seems like this mobo is making it hard.


----------



## Asce

You may have reached the limit of the CPU can oc by. You dont want to go over 60° either.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


You may have reached the limit of the CPU can oc by. You dont want to go over 60Â° either.



Its ok going over 60, 65 is the limit.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r*


What kinda ambient temps you have? My house is like 90F during the summers and my parents are airconditioning nazis which makes it a poor location for overclocking


My ambients get that high when I'm out for several hours and the AC is off. Because I use my computer for data analyses that can take days, it has to remain stable at this time (and the costs of leaving the AC on 24/7 are prohibitive).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willhub*


It seems my CPU aint stable at 3.37 and 1.35V +100MV, I dunno if its the fsb or somthing, what next? try 8x Multiplyer?


Is your NB voltage maxed? I had to put mine up to 1.7V at around that FSB. Also, have a graph running for your vcore on speedfan while you run orthos. See what the lowest vcore you get with droop. You might have to push the vcore up a little higher. And there's no way the board's preventing you from achieving a stable clock at 375FSB.


----------



## Kopi

Hey guys, just a heads up. OCz has released SPD-Z which is a program that may help compatibility with motherboards. Its designed to increase stability, compatibility, and overclockability of their ram. Check it out here.

http://www.dailytech.com/OCZ+Release...rticle8348.htm


----------



## The Pook

http://www.overclock.net/rants-raves...rave-asus.html










Most likely be getting a P5K this time for RMA.







Last time I thought the same thing, so I won't count my chickens before they hatch (one), but I'm pretty sure I'll get one this time.


----------



## DonNiger

Hi,

I was just replaceing a new WC block. Because I still do not have a mem to OC, I took my time. And I found out something I wanted to share.
The plate which is holding a CPU in it's socket is too high. I covered the hole plate with some stuff and placed the waterblock - and according to the markes that stuff left behind, the block was sitting also on the block as well.

So if somebody is wondering, why his CPU temps are high without any reasons, that is something to check out.
Or mayby it is just with my board.


----------



## Dooginater

Is it possible to get a 1:1 ratio with DDR-800 PC6400 RAM on an E6600? I have it overclocked @ 3.0 Ghz and my ratio is 5:6.

I manually set the timings on my memory and was wondering if having two G-Skill 1GB's and 2 512 Corsair (both DDR-800 and PC6400) would mess up my ratio somehow. I don't want to bottleneck anything.

I tested ORTHOS and it ran stable for over 12 hours with my current settings.

Oh, somehow running orthos improved my cooling ability. I installed the Arctic Freezer 7 and was getting idle temps of about 39 degrees @ stock settings. Now I'm overclocked to 3.0Ghz and my idle is 32~33 degrees and my load never reaches 50?

Did I need to bake my thermal grease or what?


----------



## Praeses

I got my new system:
P5N-E








E6550
2x1GB Mushkin EM2 (had to move them to the black slots)
GeForce 8800GTS 640MB

Running like a dream!

My CPU is running cooler than my NB...I guess I should add a fan to my NB HS


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
Is it possible to get a 1:1 ratio with DDR-800 PC6400 RAM on an E6600? I have it overclocked @ 3.0 Ghz and my ratio is 5:6.

I manually set the timings on my memory and was wondering if having two G-Skill 1GB's and 2 512 Corsair (both DDR-800 and PC6400) would mess up my ratio somehow. I don't want to bottleneck anything.

It's possible, yes. You'll need to inch your FSB up to 400 though (3.6 GHz if you keep your multi at 9x). Let us know how you fare...you have to pump your NB voltage up some. Having the two sets of RAM in there won't help, that's for sure...but it may still be possible. Can't say I've ever tried OCing with two different RAM kits in.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
Did I need to bake my thermal grease or what?

Very possibly--a long burn-in can help, such as running 12 hours of orthos....


----------



## willhub

Uh my Ballistix ram aint doing too good now, 2.35V for 1000Mhz 5-5-5-15, kept getting Bsod's


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

It appears my cooler isn't up to the task of handling my CPU @ 3.6 GHz., I can do Orthos for about 5 minutes before temps get so high they force my CPU to shutdown. I can't do 3.5 or 3.4 GHz due to FSB hole (board very unstable for some reason, can't even boot to Windows before it crashes)

It appears that I'm back at 3.3 GHz until I can get a better CPU cooler. Any recommendations? I'm currently running an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro.

Also I noted on the 2nd post that the Coolermaster Blue Ice is SLI-capable SouthBridge cooler? The thing is almost 7 cm high, how is an SLI card going to fit into that slot with the cooler installed?

http://www.coolermaster.com/products...bcate=1&id=106


----------



## Christiaan

Hey boys, mind heading over here for my little P5N-E SLI issue. I decided to make it a thread of it's own, since it will most likely not get much attention in here.







I have some unanswered posts somewhere in the past of this thread.


----------



## Dooginater

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


It's possible, yes. You'll need to inch your FSB up to 400 though (3.6 GHz if you keep your multi at 9x). Let us know how you fare...you have to pump your NB voltage up some. Having the two sets of RAM in there won't help, that's for sure...but it may still be possible. Can't say I've ever tried OCing with two different RAM kits in.

Very possibly--a long burn-in can help, such as running 12 hours of orthos....


Why would I have to inch up my NB voltage? How do I check those temps anyway?

Is a 5:6 ratio that bad? I was thinking on maxing out @ 3.2Ghz. I don't really want to add anymore cooling equipment since I want to save space for my next video card, whichever that may be. Any suggestion would be nice.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Uh my Ballistix ram aint doing too good now, 2.35V for 1000Mhz 5-5-5-15, kept getting Bsod's









But you say it tested fine in memtest?? And remember...this board dislikes loose timings. Stick to stock...or if 5-5-5-15 is stock maybe try 4-4-4-12.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r* 
It appears my cooler isn't up to the task of handling my CPU @ 3.6 GHz., I can do Orthos for about 5 minutes before temps get so high they force my CPU to shutdown. I can't do 3.5 or 3.4 GHz due to FSB hole (board very unstable for some reason, can't even boot to Windows before it crashes)

It appears that I'm back at 3.3 GHz until I can get a better CPU cooler. Any recommendations? I'm currently running an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro.

Also I noted on the 2nd post that the Coolermaster Blue Ice is SLI-capable SouthBridge cooler? The thing is almost 7 cm high, how is an SLI card going to fit into that slot with the cooler installed?

http://www.coolermaster.com/products...bcate=1&id=106

The Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme gets very good reviews (e.g. this one), and is a favorite over in the Intel Air Cooling forum. The thing is huge though (needs 6.3" clearance above your CPU), so make sure it'll fit in your case.

It was designed with quad cores in mind. As you can see from the review, nothing outperformed it in a closed case when it had two 1200rpm fans on it, although two of the coolers with higher rpm fans had it idling a few C lower.

I just got mine in the mail today, but haven't installed it yet as I'm waiting on the fans (I got two 114.7 CFM panaflo's for it) and a lapping kit (apparently the heatsink frequently comes with a highly convex base--mine doesn't seem too bad, but once I'm ready to install I'll check how well it contacts with the cpu heatspreader). I'm hoping those two >2700rpm fans on this cooler will give me the best cooling for my CPU I can achieve with air. The thing looks great, too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
Why would I have to inch up my NB voltage? How do I check those temps anyway?

Is a 5:6 ratio that bad? I was thinking on maxing out @ 3.2Ghz. I don't really want to add anymore cooling equipment since I want to save space for my next video card, whichever that may be. Any suggestion would be nice.

Because at higher FSB's the NB needs more voltage to keep up. Though you can't really 'inch' it up the way you can on the CPU, because iirc it only has 3 settings.

No, 5:6 isn't that bad. 1:1 is better, but not in any sense necessary. And I thoroughly agree that 3.6GHz on an e6600 is a bit on extreme on air, unless you've got some really premo air cooling happening.

What you might try, though, is reducing your multiplier to 8x, and try getting to 400 FSB at 3.2GHz. Up to you.

P.S. In my reply to your original post I meant to say you "may" have to up the NB voltage...the "may" was missing.


----------



## Dooginater

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Because at higher FSB's the NB needs more voltage to keep up. Though you can't really 'inch' it up the way you can on the CPU, because iirc it only has 3 settings.

No, 5:6 isn't that bad. 1:1 is better, but not in any sense necessary. And I thoroughly agree that 3.6GHz on an e6600 is a bit on extreme on air, unless you've got some really premo air cooling happening.

What you might try, though, is reducing your multiplier to 8x, and try getting to 400 FSB at 3.2GHz. Up to you.

P.S. In my reply to your original post I meant to say you "may" have to up the NB voltage...the "may" was missing.

What's the advantage of changing my multiplier? A better ratio?

PS. Thanks for all the help. I've had a hard time finding info specific to my situation.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
What's the advantage of changing my multiplier? A better ratio?

PS. Thanks for all the help. I've had a hard time finding info specific to my situation.

If you keep your current multiplier (9x), then at 400 FSB, your CPU would be running at 3.6 GHz. It might not be able to run at that frequency. However if you lower your multiplier to 8x and set your FSB at 400 MHz, this will allow you to run your CPU at 3.2 GHz and still achieve your 1:1 FSB:RAM divider.


----------



## TriBeCa

what he said









and clock speed isn't the whole story when it comes to proc performance...say you've got two processors both at 3.6 GHz, one at 400 FSB x9 and the other at 600FSB x6...the second one is gonna smoke the first (all other things being equal, and both being stable). Not a particularly *likely* example, but true nonetheless


----------



## Dooginater

Sweet. I'll do that right now. Should I try a low voltage first? I'm thinking I don't need to go above 3.5v.

oops. Typo. I meant 1.35volts.

Also, my bios is locking up when I run at 400Mhz FSB. It would be 1600 Rated FSB to achieve the 400Mhz @ an 8x multiplier right?


----------



## TriBeCa

tell me you didn't actually mean 3.5


----------



## willhub

I'm now officially scared of overclocking ram, I took out 1GB of my ballistix, I was at 3-3-3-7-1T: 850Mhz: 2.35V, ram died, PC would not boot, first I was getting crashing in Bios, then no boot, tried resetting Cmos, did not help so I took one stick of ram out and the PC was fine, shame I aint gonna be able to play Bioshock when it comes out coz 1GB ram wont help and the damnd ram wont be here by then.


----------



## Praeses

Has anybody else encountered problems where PcProbe II displays the Vcore incorrectly? (it's showing 2.14V while CPUz is showing 1.2V) I'm not getting any errors in orthos and my temps are good.


----------



## Asce

Dont trust any software to read voltages









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
Sweet. I'll do that right now. Should I try a low voltage first? I'm thinking I don't need to go above 3.5v.

oops. Typo. I meant 1.35volts.

Also, my bios is locking up when I run at 400Mhz FSB. It would be 1600 Rated FSB to achieve the 400Mhz @ an 8x multiplier right?

Can you fill out your system specs so we know what you are running. Try 1.35v and +100mv, it should be enough to get you to post.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
Sweet. I'll do that right now. Should I try a low voltage first? I'm thinking I don't need to go above 3.5v.

oops. Typo. I meant 1.35volts.

Also, my bios is locking up when I run at 400Mhz FSB. It would be 1600 Rated FSB to achieve the 400Mhz @ an 8x multiplier right?

1600 is right, yeah. Did you work your way up to 400 MHz? And Asce is right...more like 1.45 than 1.35 at that speed. Also, if you're having stability problems, do try increasing the voltage to the NB.

By the way, did you reseat the NB heatshink on the board? The thermal pad that ASUS uses is total crap.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
I'm now officially scared of overclocking ram, I took out 1GB of my ballistix, I was at 3-3-3-7-1T: 850Mhz: 2.35V, ram died, PC would not boot, first I was getting crashing in Bios, then no boot, tried resetting Cmos, did not help so I took one stick of ram out and the PC was fine, shame I aint gonna be able to play Bioshock when it comes out coz 1GB ram wont help and the damnd ram wont be here by then.

Before you RMA the RAM, make 100% it's the RAM and not the DIMM slot on the board. MY OCZ Platinum's killed two of the DIMMS on my first board.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
By the way, did you reseat the NB heatshink on the board? The thermal pad that ASUS uses is total crap.

Is that easy to do? I guess it would involve taking out the motherboard. I've mounted a 60mm fan on the heatsink and it didn't do much at all...which would indicate a problem with the thermal compound used. So it's just: Take out motherboard -> use pliers to remove heatsink -> benzine/alcohol to remove the thermal compound -> apply arctic silver -> reattach heatsink?
I dislike having a northbridge running hotter than my CPU


----------



## TriBeCa

Exactly what you said. Easy as pie, really. Except getting the thermal pad off is a bit of a pain. You'll hate the stuff as soon as you see it ;p And be careful with those pliers, it's fairly easy to scratch the back of the board if you're not careful.


----------



## Praeses

Cool, thanks. I might try it soon...so much effort though :/


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah...best to do when you first install the board. but it will definately reduce temps on your NB.


----------



## Blizzie

Don't know of dpawl has been updating that list of CPU coolers that fit.. So anyone know if Thermaltake V1 will fit with no mods?

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...shPinClip.html

And about reseating the NB. I looked at it when I had to take my motherboard out of the case.. And those push pins are rally hard to get out. xD I just left it alone. My Northbridge is 38C


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Actually, my friend has one that will refuse to POST at 1600 FSB no matter what voltages he set. However, his board is capable of over 2000 FSB. Jump directly to 1750 and 1800 FSB and see if it'll POST there.

I bought a Ultra-120 this morning and installed it on my processor. It'll now boot to Windows @ 3.9 GHz (but alas, won't even run Orthos for 1 second) and will even POST at 4 GHz although it does not get much past that.

Now trying to determine my highest 24/7 overclock.


----------



## Dooginater

Ok, I updated my settings. Where do I find what my NB voltage is currently at? Everything is stock unless otherwise noted (like my CPU cooler).

My computer keeps showing 1600/800 as 2.13Ghz and won't boot.

BTW. Would it be better or worse if I underclocked my RAM to compensate?

Still getting a failed overclock. My 3.0Ghz profile works just fine though. I'm wondering how my performance would be if I linked my BUS and RAM.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

So changing your FSB around has no effect on your processor clock speed? It sounds like you're in the "safe mode" after having rebooted from a failed overclock. You will need to go to your BIOS and load the default settings and then change them to your desired settings.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Don't know of dpawl has been updating that list of CPU coolers that fit.. So anyone know if Thermaltake V1 will fit with no mods?

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...shPinClip.html

And about reseating the NB. I looked at it when I had to take my motherboard out of the case.. And those push pins are rally hard to get out. xD I just left it alone. My Northbridge is 38C 


Looks like it should fit. You can either take out the push pins by removing the ink cartridge from a bic pen (needs to be strong plastic though, the first one i tried this with was too soft), or pliers (needlenose or not). Using pliers is when you have to be careful about not scratching the board though.

Doog:

Underclocking your RAM should be fine, but I'd really just leave it at stock while you're OCing the CPU.

NB voltage settings are along with vcore and vdimm. I think it's just called NB Volts or something.


----------



## v!p3r^

im gettin this bored in a few days and this is the ram that i think will work very well with the mobo http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2GB-CRUCIAL-B...QQcmdZViewItem what do u guys think?


----------



## Blizzie

Page Not Responding

The eBay page or feature you are attempting to access is not responding.
Please try the options below:

* Refresh your browser by h


----------



## DonNiger

Got a new ram today, so far it makes 1220 Mhz @ 5-4-4-14-2T









Trying to kill my E2160 but 3,7 Ghz is not going to be possible


----------



## v!p3r^

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Page Not Responding

The eBay page or feature you are attempting to access is not responding.
Please try the options below:

* Refresh your browser by h


oops heres the new ram im gonna get with it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....EWAIC&ih=007


----------



## mog

How could we know northbride's temp Probe2 only show mainboard' temp?
I added more fan for my board. Is it enough? I only get 450Mhz FSB.


----------



## Blizzie

@v!p3r^: Um.. that RAM is a PC 8500. I think this board supports up to PC 6400 maximum.
But I could be wrong.

Hardware Secrets:

Quote:



On the memory side, ASUS P5N-E has four DDR2-DIMM sockets, supporting up to 8 GB officially up to DDR2-800. On this motherboard sockets 1 and 3 are yellow and sockets 2 and 4 are black. Configuring DDR2 dual channel on this motherboard is pretty easy: just install each module on a socket with the same color.


@mog: Did you screw that fan inbetween your NB heatsink fins?


----------



## mog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


@mog: Did you screw that fan inbetween your NB heatsink fins?


Yeah. Is there a problem?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mog*


Yeah. Is there a problem?


Just wondering if you use a different method of getting on. I was thinking of how I could attach a fan to it without screwing it on. Didn't want to scratch my heatsink.


----------



## Kai-

Double sided sticky tape? Velcro? Creative zip tie useage?

Just a few ideas to think about.


----------



## Asce

Mog download Everest or Speedfan for motherboard temps.


----------



## TriBeCa

Asce...do you know which sensor in speedfan is the mobo one? I've got one labelled MB (I believe I matched it from Asus Probe) but I didn't think that sensor was *actually* on the NB chip.


----------



## Asce

I can only guess its temp 1 and 2


----------



## DonNiger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
@v!p3r^: Um.. that RAM is a PC 8500. I think this board supports up to PC 6400 maximum.
But I could be wrong.

Hardware Secrets:

@mog: Did you screw that fan inbetween your NB heatsink fins?

Yes, you are wrong.
http://hwbot.org/signature.img?iid=33438&thumb=false


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DonNiger*


Yes, you are wrong. 
http://hwbot.org/signature.img?iid=33438&thumb=false


The RAM could be overclocked there... I don't see why there should though. But, I'm pretty sure it doens't take past PC 400/6400.. According to the reviews.

Here it is:

Quote ASUS

Quote:



Dual channel memory architecture
4 x 240-pin DIMM sockets support up to 8GB DDR2 800/667/533
non-ECC/ Unbuffered memory


http://usa.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...74&modelmenu=2


----------



## DonNiger

I am useing PC8800

You just have to set mem speed manualy


----------



## TriBeCa

so updated to the latest BIOS using the EZ Flash utility...and now my system hangs at post. this happened the first time i booted with the new bios, and on the reboot i managed to get into the BIOS. I set it to default (F5, F10, yes) and rebooted...and it hung at post again. Now I can't even get into the BIOS. tried pulling the CMOS battery and moving the jumper over, but that did nothing for me....

advice?


----------



## Asce

Does anybody know why im getting feedback from the onboard audio when ive got a headset on? Ive tried fixing it by reinstalling the drivers but it hasnt worked.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Mute "microphone" and "line in" in your "playback" sound control panel?


----------



## mog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Mog download Everest or Speedfan for motherboard temps.


I downloaded Speedfan. plzz tell me which is northbridge's temp? And how could we know Vram?


----------



## dpawl31

mog - see in pc probe CPU and MB temps?
CPU temp @ 41 tells you its the same sensor as temp1. (CPU temp)
Same goes for NB - The motherboard temp in pc probe relates to temp2 in speedfan. The MB temp is the average between your NB + SB


----------



## mog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


mog - see in pc probe CPU and MB temps?
CPU temp @ 41 tells you its the same sensor as temp1. (CPU temp)
Same goes for NB - The motherboard temp in pc probe relates to temp2 in speedfan. The MB temp is the average between your NB + SB


But Speedfan does not show CPU fan speed . And I cannot control fan speed. It is very loud


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

If you plug your fan into one of the 3 pin headers on the motherboard, Speedfan can control those fan header's speed.


----------



## TriBeCa

...so nobody has any suggestions for my BIOS problem


----------



## Blizzie

Try leaving the BIOS battery out longer. If you have time leave it for a few hours. Then try again.


----------



## Blizzie

I took out my NB Heatsink... And it was hard as rock. The heatsink wouldn't even come off until I forced it off. Taking that "compound" off was a nightmare.









How is that thing even thermal compound.....


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

It melts when thermal energy is applied to it?


----------



## Kai-

I just wiggeled mine a little and it came off.

Sorta like a wet piece of plastic on a flat surface.


----------



## TriBeCa

well it depends on whether you've used the board or not...if you haven't the consistency of the thermal pad is very very different, 'cause as azn said it melts when it heats up.


----------



## Blizzie

And then it hardens to stone >_>;;


----------



## Sephirothsnake

Hey, I'm new in this thread.

My specs:
e4300 + scythe infinity
asus p5n-e sli
2 x 1024mb Corsair twinx2 pc 6400 cl4
evga 8800gts acs³ edition
....

I'm planning on replacing the NB heatsink with a Thermalright HR-05-SLI.
I chose this one because I believe it's my only choice because of the large
dimensions of the scyhte infinity.

And because the 8800gts's cooler is so big too i'm going for the Thermalright HR-05-SLI there also.
*
Any sugestions on NB and SB coolers in my case?*

Here're some pics of the sitiuation now:
http://www.hardware.info/images/user...e/000901-4.jpg
http://www.hardware.info/images/user...e/000901-3.jpg

My max stable oc so far was 3.3GHz.

When I put it on 3.6Ghz the bios accepts it but Windows doesn't load....
I've already tried 1.6vcore 1.5..Nbvolt.... unlinked..
Memory timings are set manually at 4-4-4-12 2t.
Memvolt on auto or 2.178 doesn't make a difference.
I'm starting to believe 3.37 is my cpu's max stable speed.....

Please forgive me for my english, I'm from Belgium and my motherlanguage is dutch.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Very clean and nice looking case. I'm ashamed to post my setup now lolz.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

NB: http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...4/cl-c0034.asp

Couldn't recommend this enough. You can rotate the orientation of the fan and it's solid copper with two heatpipes and blue light up LED in the fan. Wicked sick. Not totally silent (4500 RPM), but it's doubtful you'll hear it over all your case fans anyways. My NB temps are still ridiculously high after installing this cooler at stock voltages, but if this cooler can't handle it, none others can. I know the thing is mounted properly, because it burns to touch it, which means heat is being transferred efficiently, it's just not getting dissipated fast enough. The NB probably puts out as much thermal energy as CPUs 2 generations ago!

SB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835110102 (will work with SLi, at least with 7900 GTs SLIed)

Any actively cooled heatsink should be enough for the SB on this mobo.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r* 
NB: http://www.thermaltake.com/product/C...4/cl-c0034.asp

Couldn't recommend this enough. You can rotate the orientation of the fan and it's solid copper with two heatpipes and blue light up LED in the fan. Wicked sick. Not totally silent (4500 RPM), but it's doubtful you'll hear it over all your case fans anyways. My NB temps are still ridiculously high after installing this cooler at stock voltages, but if this cooler can't handle it, none others can. I know the thing is mounted properly, because it burns to touch it, which means heat is being transferred efficiently, it's just not getting dissipated fast enough. The NB probably puts out as much thermal energy as CPUs 2 generations ago!

SB: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835110102 (will work with SLi, at least with 7900 GTs SLIed)

Any actively cooled heatsink should be enough for the SB on this mobo.

Will that thermaltake cooler fit with an ultra-120 extreme? It looks like a great cooler, but I'm concerned the fan on it won't get decent airflow because of the size of my cooler (and the massive panaflo stuck on the back of it). I can post pics if need be....


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r




----------



## TriBeCa

hahaha nice. so i guess the answer is "yes, barely" ;p

is the NB fan drawing air off the gpu, or off the cooler? neither is ideal...and i'm not actually sure which would be better (though that 120 xtreme never heats up very much), but it'd be good to know....


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Mine is drawing air from the Ultra 120 extreme. There's more room than there appears to be. The Ultra-120 extreme's fins don't start till like halfway up the Extreme Spirit II.


----------



## TriBeCa

ok, that should be good then. like i said the 120-X doesn't get that hot, and i've got two 117 CFM fans on it, so the air in there should be fairly cool anyway.

i've ordered one from tigerdirect (newegg doesn't seem to have it???), will be here before i get my board back from ASUS with a fixed bios....


----------



## UkGouki

hello guys i have ran into a few problems and hopefully have resolved them i was told to check here as you have the best knowledge on the Internet>

i got 2 gig DDR2 800mhz cas 4 XMS2 ram ive had to manually input these timings>
im on Bio's revision 0608
TCL:4
TRCD:4
TRP:4
TRAS:12
Command Clock:2
Advanced setting>
TRC:22
sli ready disabled
Voltage set to 2.085

all seems to be working for now without getting a bsod now what i need to ask about is my core2duo E6400 cpu i have it set to Manuel overclock with the fsb @ 1333mhz = 25% overclock @6xfsb of 333mhz in cpuz.

how do i set it to stick @8x fsb so i can get it to 3.2ghz i have seen someone hit 4ghz with speed-step basically they set there fsb to 2000mhz it gave then 500mhz x 6 for 3ghz when speed-step kicked in it went to 8x for 4ghz am i correct in going with the fsb set to 1600mhz for a3.2ghz overclock @8xfsb??

as i only have a thermaltake blue orb 2 my idle temps are currently 35c is this good or not as-well? i do have good case cooling and my motherboard is posting @39c with sli gpus enabled!

here are my full rig specs>
Case Thermaltake Armor
Mobo, Asus P5N-E Sli Bios 608
Ram, Corsair XMS2 TwinX Cas4 Pc6400
Cpu, Intel Core2Duo E6400
Gpu's, 2X7600gt O/C in sli
3Xhdds
all Air cooled!


----------



## Asce

Dude you got an Armor, you can fit a TT120 inside it and stay cool while putting 1.46v through the CPU.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Dude you got an Armor, you can fit a TT120 inside it and stay cool while putting 1.46v through the CPU.


im happy with the blue orb 2 and arctic silver on the AI overclock before i got this new ram i had it @2.67mhz 29c idle 45c full load my mobo was posting @32c both gpu's idle @ 40c because they have nexus pci fans on top of the standard cooling fans!

i have 2x120mm intake fans 1 120mm rear exhaust fan and a 200mm case window fan i have had temps as low as 12c idle in winter as its summer and the ambient temp in my rooms is 24/26c i expect it to be warmer because i have to use Manual overclocks i was told to come here for advice


----------



## TriBeCa

I got my e6400 to 3.2 GHz fine under a golden orb (v. similar to a blue orb), but when summer ambients hit it became unstable. i put in a lapped ultra-120 extreme and lapped the IHS on my e6400 and temps dropped 15C from the golden orb (except idle temps, which stayed a few C above ambients).

if you can, i'd really recommend switching to an ultra 120 extreme or tuniq tower. best $60 you can spend on OCing ;p

now, as for your multi issues:

did you set the 6x manually? or is that what CPU-z or other software is reporting? because it sounds to me like maybe you have C1E turned on the BIOS, which will run your CPU at 6x and lower volts when idling, and push it up to default (8x) and whatever your volts are set to under load. this will save some heat and stress on your CPU, but can be unstable of OCs....


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


<Snip>

if you can, i'd really recommend switching to an ultra 120 extreme or tuniq tower. best $60 you can spend on OCing ;p

now, as for your multi issues:

did you set the 6x manually? or is that what CPU-z or other software is reporting? because it sounds to me like maybe you have C1E turned on the BIOS, which will run your CPU at 6x and lower volts when idling, and push it up to default (8x) and whatever your volts are set to under load. this will save some heat and stress on your CPU, but can be unstable of OCs....


yeah i have C1E on and speedstep its only cpuz and Everest reporting it @6xfsb i noticed when i ran both i got 8X in everest @2.67GHZ 25% overclock i can turn them off but get better results from benchmarks with them on and Idle temps Below 30c so im quite happy with it ill look into getting the Ultra120 as i can get it for Â£24 Uk with discount


----------



## TriBeCa

keep an eye on this thread...in the next few days i'll be posting a link here to a thread i'll be starting in the air cooling section. i took a TON of pictures of my lapping job...if you don't mind voiding the warranty on your e6400 you might consider lapping your HSF and IHS


----------



## Dooginater

I'd still like to know what voltage I should have my NB @ so I can achieve 400Mhz FSB for my E6600. I want that 1:1 RATIO @ x 8 multiplier.


----------



## TriBeCa

you'll probably have to max it out (1.7V). I had to to get stable @ 400 x8 on my e6400. But according to azn there's an FSB hole in the board between 400-425, and apparently some board can't even post in that range, while they'll do 430 fine.... So if you're not not posting at or near 400, try jumping to 430-450....


----------



## UkGouki

i got mine to 3.5Ghz but Vista wouldn't boot! set the Fsb to Manuel Fsb=1750 which is 450mhz X8 and the Vcore Voltage to Auto at stock voltage i can only get 3.2ghz out of my E6400 you should be able to get 3.5 on your E6600 very easily


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Finally picking mine up tomorrow...hoping to get this e4300 past the 3.5 GHz mark with my Zalman air cooling, we'll see how it goes. This board might allow me to run 8x450=3600MHz, which is what I am hoping as I hear the e4300's usually require a hair less voltage for stability with the 8x setting.
Anyone suggest some good ram for these settings I am hoping for? So it'll be running at DDR2 900MHz, so I just need the cheapest DDR2 that'll hit 900MHz with good timings.


----------



## Mussels

Just like to add in here that this mobo doesnt play well with G0 quads, i managed 3.1GHz for about 24 hours (OCCT stable) but since then the PC wont boot at anything other than stock with this CPU.

Just a heads up for anyone tempted to go quad.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson* 
Anyone suggest some good ram for these settings I am hoping for? So it'll be running at DDR2 900MHz, so I just need the cheapest DDR2 that'll hit 900MHz with good timings.

my corsair dominator's have been beautiful, although i haven't tried OCing them, other than tightening timings to 4-4-4-12 and setting them to 1T without a hitch. they're built for OCing though: the monstrous stock heatsinks don't even get warm at 800MHz.


----------



## SavageFuDD

I'v posted on other forums, But no much response to my questions... But it looks like a good crowed here

Ok, What do you guys think of My Volages?
in Everest In Bios "How I set theme"
Vcore 1.41 1.45
1.2v HT 1.36 1.35
NB 1.49 1.45
SB 1.53 auto
CPU VTT 1.41 1.40

I'm at 3.4 Orthose Stable so far at 1 hour and 10 minutes
I would like o go higher, Just don't want to blow anything up!!

My Temps are good around 30C no load and 46c at 85% load

And anyone know what the stock vid is for my cpu? and the ranges?


----------



## Mussels

stock vid actually varies a few settigns on the latest models, i've even seen a Q6600 with 1.20V stock (compared to 1.325v on the box)

Voltages wise, i think you shouldnt trust software







its very inaccurate.

(And your sig is kinda long, go into the user CP and set it up like we have)


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah...i'm loath to try and actually read through those system specs ;p go back to the user CP and hit 'edit system'









your copy-paste of voltages etc is a bit hard to read....

your temps seen great though. what temps do you hit after a couple hours of orthos?

and, from experience, i wouldn't call anything under 8 hours of orthos stable...my OC hit errors at 4 and 6 hours before i got it stable with a couple more vcore nudges.


----------



## SavageFuDD

Sorry about that,, the first set of voltages are from Everest and the second set is from the bios

Everest
Vcore______1.41
1.2v HT____1.36
NB_________1.49
SB_________1.53
CPU VTT____1.41

Bios
Vcore_______1.45
1.2v HT_____1.35
NB_________1.45
SB_________auto
CPU VTT____1.40

I ran Orhos all night 10 hours 23 minutes. It sayed around 43 C, If you would? Im a noob on the sig setup,, could you help me set i up nice and small?


----------



## TriBeCa

click "user CP" at the top of the page, then click "edit system" on the left of the next page. there's a field there for all this stuff.

i just noticed you have a p5n32-e, whereas this is the p5n-e thread...you're probably better off asking for advice in the p5n32-e thread (right next to this one), as people there will have experience with the specific board you have.

and 43C is nice and low, you've got plenty of room to play with there


----------



## SavageFuDD

Thanks.. and I will


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

finally got my P5N-E SLI just now, up and running just installing system drivers and such, download some Orthos and I FINALLY can see what my e4300 can do...I'm getting impatient!


----------



## TriBeCa

check this out


----------



## SavageFuDD

Sweet!!!!! Nice Rig!! and by the way thanks. got the help I wanted over there..
I have to show you this< Im proud this build!!

http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic1.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic2.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic3.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic4.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic5.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic6.JPG
__________________


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dooginater* 
I'd still like to know what voltage I should have my NB @ so I can achieve 400Mhz FSB for my E6600. I want that 1:1 RATIO @ x 8 multiplier.

Just try default voltage and bump it up a notch till you get something that works. My board will run 400 FSB at default voltage, but for others it's in the "FSB hole" and they'll require max voltage.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

double posted oops


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

So I've had this P5N-E SLI running since yesterday and for some reason I can't even get my rig Orthos stable at stock settings, let alone anything else. Do I have a faulty motherboard or should I maybe dis-assemble and install outside the case to see if it is working. What do you guys think it could be? Everything was completely fine before the switch to this motherboard. Oh, and I haven't upgraded the BIOS yet as I'm not stable so I don't want to risk messing the BIOS up. Is the first BIOS THAT flaky as to cause instability at stock is it? My ram is Value, one Corsair and one no-name, think there could be a compatibility issue? Suggestions?


----------



## brandon6199

hey, I have this motherboard too







I can join the club









Too bad my first one was dead, and I had to RMA it to get this working one


----------



## DonNiger

I have to sign out from this thread - my mobo is quite dead (still boots but it is not good for overclocking any more-can not give more than 1.5v). i'll try to make some pictures about the reason. So you could see what's gonna happen, if you push it too hard. Shortly - CPU pins will burn out if you run it too long with 1,6+ volts.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


So I've had this P5N-E SLI running since yesterday and for some reason I can't even get my rig Orthos stable at stock settings, let alone anything else. Do I have a faulty motherboard or should I maybe dis-assemble and install outside the case to see if it is working. What do you guys think it could be? Everything was completely fine before the switch to this motherboard. Oh, and I haven't upgraded the BIOS yet as I'm not stable so I don't want to risk messing the BIOS up. Is the first BIOS THAT flaky as to cause instability at stock is it? My ram is Value, one Corsair and one no-name, think there could be a compatibility issue? Suggestions?


I heard this board is pretty picky with the RAM. Try running a Memtest86 as your first step.


----------



## Asce

Well there should be a list on the first post on which ram works on this board. But Dpawl hasnt been around lately so i dont know if he has updated it.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Well, I just got home from work after letting MEMTEST86 run all day and came back to a load of errors, so I guess I can now conclude it is the ram causing me the troubles. I'm pretty relieved I won't have to RMA, even though I now need some new ram. I was planning on something better anyway now that I have a motherboard that can utilize it unlike my old ASRock 4CoreDual-VSTA. Well, I'm going to try just using 1GB for now and see what happens...hopefully one of sticks works with this motherboard.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I have finally figured out my issue was actually the Brand name ram and not the noname which I found odd, but anyway. A couple questions, have you guys been running NB Voltage maxed? Are you needing extra cooling? I have a 120mm fan blowing on what I think is NB (say nVidia on it?), would that suffice? Can I trust ASUS PC Probe? The temps seem aweful low...Any other tips on getting this board 400+ FSB?


----------



## Blizzie

My NB voltage is set to Auto. Or whatever it is. I haven't touched it. The Northbridge is under the heatsink that says ASUS. THe nVidia chip that is bare without a heatsink is the Southbridge. I threw a Zalman heatsink on mines just for the heck of it. It barely gets warm when touching it.

As far as cooling goes I have an Antec Nine Hundred case so my air flow is really nice and for CPU I have a Thermaltake V1.

For temperatures use Core Temp. Gives you both the cores. ASUS Probe is good for monitoring NB temp, VCore, fans but it doesn't give you the temperatures of the Cores. And according to Kopi it's the cores that matter not the overall.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


I have finally figured out my issue was actually the Brand name ram and not the noname which I found odd, but anyway. A couple questions, have you guys been running NB Voltage maxed? Are you needing extra cooling? I have a 120mm fan blowing on what I think is NB (say nVidia on it?), would that suffice? Can I trust ASUS PC Probe? The temps seem aweful low...Any other tips on getting this board 400+ FSB?


Some brand name RAM require extra voltage to run in spec. Try to up your Memory Voltage? Don't go above 2.2V though, as it's probably not very good for your memory chips.


----------



## brandon6199

hey all you P5N-E SLI'ers, I gotta quick question.

I bought the ASUS P5N-E SLI about when it first came out, where their wasn't a heatsink on the southbridge. But now, I see that they sell it with a southbridge cooler. I don't have a heatsink on my southbridge right now, but I have really good airflow. Should this be a problem, or do I have to buy a heatsink for it? Or maybe I can call ASUS and have them ship me one?


----------



## UkGouki

i got mine a few months back and it didn't come with a south-bridge cooler i would also like to know how i go about getting one that fits as on this board its only 3cm when standard south-bridge coolers are 4cm??


----------



## Asce

Have a look at the Akasa AK-210, that was what i was using for my SB before i ripped another heatsink off and old but dead Asus board.


----------



## Blizzie

Oh they're shipping with SB heatsinks now? *goes have a look*

I got a Zalman ZM-NB47J heatsink on mines. SLI doesn't work with it though. But I won't be running SLI.

SB heatsink isn't needed unless you do some major overclocking but it's safe to have one. My SB heatsink doesn't get too hot when I touch it. I can barely feel the heat.

So I guess they are...
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggIma...131-142-11.jpg

I'm going to see if I can contact them and get one. I heard their support is horrible...

Edit: Nevermind... Too lazy to fill everything out and find my serial number. XD


----------



## brandon6199

Blizzie, I think i'll try to contact ASUS and have them ship me one. It's the least they could do after shipping me a dead P5N-E SLI a few months back









EDIT: by the way, if i were to touch my southbridge right now, would that be ok? or would my finger melt and corrode the chipset thingy with the oils on my fingers


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Blizzie, I think i'll try to contact ASUS and have them ship me one. It's the least they could do after shipping me a dead P5N-E SLI a few months back











Suit yourself. =) Are you going to fill out the form or phone them? Let me know if you actually get one.


----------



## crazydj

Yea, hi. I'm gonna get a southbridge heatsink for my P5N-E and may i know the dimension clearance for 8800gts in sli? I especially need the dimension clearance for the height. Thanks.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crazydj*


Yea, hi. I'm gonna get a southbridge heatsink for my P5N-E and may i know the dimension clearance for 8800gts in sli? I especially need the dimension clearance for the height. Thanks.


I'm almost positive that you can fit 8800 Ultra's in SLi on a P5N-E SLI, so your 8800 GTS's shouldn't be a problem at all - one thing to remember though, if you want to SLI any kind of card, you can't have a southbridge heatsink, UNLESS it's really short and goes under the graphics card, but I wouldn't recommend it. I've felt the southbridge during full load, it doesn't get that hot - that's why they didn't put one there in the first place


----------



## crazydj

I see. Do you know the dimensions for a really low heatsink?


----------



## brandon6199

Hmmm... not sure about that dude. Have a look around though, I hear Zalman has some good ones.


----------



## crazydj

Yeah, i was going through Zalman but the lowest heatsink they have is 32mm. Do you think there will be space?


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

14-15mm is the max if you want SLI.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

I highly recommend this one: http://www.vantecusa.com/p_ccb_a1a.html


----------



## RaiDer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r* 
I highly recommend this one: http://www.vantecusa.com/p_ccb_a1a.html

Link = broken.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r* 
I highly recommend this one: http://www.vantecusa.com/p_ccb_a1a.html

Firefox can't find the server at www.vantecusa.com.

It helps if we can see it.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r* 
I highly recommend this one: http://www.vantecusa.com/p_ccb_a1a.html

Yeah, i know about these, but i didn't want to resort to one with a fan. Are there any passive ones out there?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Well, I have finally did some OCing and have got my e4300 at 3.2GHz and 1.4V BIOS, and my 1 GB stick no-name DDR2 533MHz running at 1000MHz 5-5-5-18 2T 2.25V. I can't go anymore on the CPU due to heat, but it boots into windows past 3.6GHz at 1.5V BIOS, but the temps are too high to safely run Orthos, so we'll see if some lapping and a reseat will get me a few more volts.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Anyone else having problems with the newest BIOS release?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


Anyone else having problems with the newest BIOS release?


Ah.. BIOS Rev 703 is out. Haven't tried it yet. Not really up to seeing tons of errors either. =D


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

0703 sucks huge with my e4300, the FSB holes change and massively killed my overclock. Switched back and all is well. Anyone else try 0703's yet? How did they work for you guys?


----------



## UkGouki

im still on 0608 i think ill stick to it


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

yeah, I'm back on 0608 and I'm actually at 3.4GHz right, need to update my sig. All I could get with the 0703 BIOS was barely 3.0GHz, and I couldn't even get 800MHz out of my ram where on 0608 I can get my value DDR2 533 noname up to 1000MHz 4-4-4-12 2T @ 2.25V.


----------



## UkGouki

well i updated to the 0703 bios no problems as of yet stable at 3.2ghz and my ram is still stock [email protected] T2 1:1 fsb ratio i havent noticed any change at all in the bios??


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

the BIOS is appears the same, but for some reason 0703 does not like my setup I guess. I messed around with it for a few hours today and couldn't even get 3.2GHz stable even with 1.55V on the CPU and 1.78V or whatever on the NB. I only need 1.4V and stock NB voltage with 0608. I wonder if anyone else is having issues other than me?


----------



## Bonez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
...so nobody has any suggestions for my BIOS problem









Detach everything - absolutely everything- from the mobo first then remove the battery and move the cap. Leave it for half an hour or so, watch tv, have a snack etc. and be patient. Then go back to it, put everything back as it should be. Then fire it up.

You can probably get away with leaving case connections plugged in to the mobo as that hasn't been a problem for me but whenever something affects the BIOS so that leaves it un-enterable (in my case a rolling BIOS screen and boot screen) I strip the mobo - unplug mouse keyboard and gpu etc. and clear CMOS.

This is just my experience but it originated from ASUS' support site and it seems to work just fine.


----------



## Coma

I'm going to be getting a Tuniq Tower, but I wanted to get a NB cooler along with it.
I was considering the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II, but I'm worried about whether it would fit.

Has anybody tried this combo, or could you guys recommend something else?

Also, do you guys think the stock NB cooler would fit on the SB? (or even better, has anyone tried that?)


----------



## Asce

I dont think anyone has tried it as you would need to get a new SB HS if you go Sli. The Thermalright HR-05-sli will fit as well but im not too sure about the Spirit


----------



## Coma

Why a new SB heatsink for SLI? Don't the graphic cards go through the NB?
I thought that if I'm gonna be taking off the stock NB heatsink, I might as well make use of it and put it on the SB.

I can't get any Thermalright products in Israel (they just don't import them), so that won't work.


----------



## Blizzie

I don't think the NB heatsink will fit on SB... There's no room. (And if it did you can't run SLI) SB doesn't create too much heat unless you have a high over clock. The original heatsink should be fine. (But mines didn't come with one back then)


----------



## hsma

could anyone help me overclock my ram? i have the mushkin extreme ddr2 6400. right now its clocked @ 667. i want to get it to atleast 800mhz. but i dont know anything about the timings etc. my processor is currently oc'd to 3.0.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

PC6400 is 800 MHz RAM no? What latency is your memory rated at?


----------



## hsma

yea the pc6400 is 800 but for somme reason its clocked at 667. my timings are 4-5-5-13-19-1T

i dont know if i wrote that right but thats what i see on cpu-z


----------



## Blizzie

You need to find out the timings and voltage for your RAM first. Then you can go in and manually set them in BIOS by unlinking FSB and RAM. or you can reset it and start over fresh.


----------



## hsma

what kind of timings and voltages should they be at to be clocked @ 800?


----------



## Blizzie

Yes it should be at 800 MHz.

My RAM is 800 MHz. 4-4-4-12-2T @ 2.1v

Google your RAM and find out settings.. I'll try looking for it in a bit. When I'm free.

If these are the right RAM then..

Speed DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
Cas Latency 4
Timing 4-4-3-10
Voltage 1.9V - 2.1V


----------



## Coma

awesome stock timings 
I wonder if it works with 1T though?


----------



## brandon6199

I have no problems running my ram at 4-4-4-12 2T @ 900 MHz. This board is very good at overclocking.

I'm at 0608 bios by the way, should I upgrade to the new 0703? But I see no reason to as my PC is running perfectly fine the way it is...


----------



## UkGouki

i upgraded to 0703 it made no changes so i just went back to 0608 as its damn near perfect on it!


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

This board allows me to run a single 1GB stick of value no-name DDR2 533MHz at 1000MHz 4-4-4-12 2T @ 2.25V 24/7 stable. I must say I am quite impressed. My last board topped out at 730ish @ 5-5-5-15 2T on "high" voltage setting. So no one else had any problems with 0703?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


Detach everything - absolutely everything- from the mobo first then remove the battery and move the cap. Leave it for half an hour or so, watch tv, have a snack etc. and be patient. Then go back to it, put everything back as it should be. Then fire it up.

You can probably get away with leaving case connections plugged in to the mobo as that hasn't been a problem for me but whenever something affects the BIOS so that leaves it un-enterable (in my case a rolling BIOS screen and boot screen) I strip the mobo - unplug mouse keyboard and gpu etc. and clear CMOS.

This is just my experience but it originated from ASUS' support site and it seems to work just fine.


wayyyyy late on that, but yeah, that's basically what i did. even left it overnight. no dice, so I RMA'd it early last week. Hopefully it'll come back sometime next week....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


I have finally figured out my issue was actually the Brand name ram and not the noname which I found odd, but anyway. A couple questions, have you guys been running NB Voltage maxed? Are you needing extra cooling? I have a 120mm fan blowing on what I think is NB (say nVidia on it?), would that suffice? Can I trust ASUS PC Probe? The temps seem aweful low...Any other tips on getting this board 400+ FSB?


I see you got a reply to this, but yeah, I've been running NB voltage maxed. If you're running it on Auto that's probably what it's at anyway, if you have any kind of decent OC going. This board tends to go crazy under auto voltages...which is why it's much better to set them manually and then inch them up when you run into problems.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SavageFuDD*


Sweet!!!!! Nice Rig!! and by the way thanks. got the help I wanted over there..
I have to show you this< Im proud this build!!

http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic1.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic2.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic3.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic4.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic5.JPG
http://www.clanceo.com/uploads/pic6.JPG
__________________



Thanks







Nice rig yourself--that Zalman is a monster!


----------



## hsma

is 5:6 FSB/DRAM ratio good? i put my RAM at 800 from the 667 and have 4-4-3-10 timings. i know before i changed it. cpu-z had it at 1:1 ratio.


----------



## hsma

my computer became unstable when i changed it to the 800mhz. i upped the voltage and changed the clock from 1T to 2T. Was it a good idea to change the command rate from 1T to 2T? so far my computer been stable and hasnt restarted yet.


----------



## UkGouki

mine is on 2t as 1t i couldnt get a stable overclock also i have a 1:1 fsb ratio 3.2ghz cpu 400x8 fsb and my ram is stock @800mhz! maybe your ram has a command 2 clock as standerd? and isnt pc6400 800mhz ram @stock mine is


----------



## brandon6199

Just out of curiosity, has anyone gotten over 1000 MHz with RAM on this motherboard? I heard in the early BIOS's it wasn't possible, but with the new BIOS's, did they fix this?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hsma*


my computer became unstable when i changed it to the 800mhz. i upped the voltage and changed the clock from 1T to 2T. Was it a good idea to change the command rate from 1T to 2T? so far my computer been stable and hasnt restarted yet.


1T will quite frequently make a system unstable. virtually all higher clock RAM is spec'd for 2T. I was fortunate that my last stable OC was also stable at 1T, which definately gives better performance for your RAM... but many systems just won't take it. so the question of whether it's better at 2T or 1T depends on if it's stable at 1T. if not...then it depends on what OC it *is* stable at 1T at, and whether the boost in RAM performance is worth decreasing your OC for.... either test both...or if your maximum OC isn't stable at 1T, just keep it at 2T


----------



## hsma

im having trouble gettin my computer @ 3.2ghz stable. i ran orthos for 2 hours at 1.4v. is that much voltage alright? my temps stayed under 60 degrees C. i think they max it went was 58.


----------



## Asce

Whats your NB voltage set to?


----------



## NintendoSensei

When i first got my board about 2 weeks ago i had a very old BIOS, before updating it i had my Xeon at 3.5Ghz overclocked, but now i've updated to the latest BIOS i can't even get to 3.2 at using even more voltage. Without a floppy drive how do i roll back to the old BIOS and update to 0608?

Edit: I should have looked at ASUS update with a bit more depth, all sorted.


----------



## Asce

Use a flash drive to flash the bios to an older version


----------



## NintendoSensei

It's fine, i just went to ASUS update options and ticked "bios downgradeable" and it did it for me. I don't know whether i could have used my phone as a flash drive so i'm glad ASUS update did it for me.


----------



## Asce

Im still running the 0307 bios as i dont want to break my computer now since ive got it to run perfect.


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, i wouldn't recommend changing BIOS versions unless you have a reason for it. My poor RMA'd board is a good reason why ;p


----------



## hsma

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Whats your NB voltage set to?


1.39v NB. Is that too high also?


----------



## Asce

Try 1.5 on your NB


----------



## TriBeCa

i had to hit 1.7 on my NB to get stable above 387.5 FSB or so.


----------



## hsma

would it be alright to have 1.4v on my vcore? it seems to be stable. below 1.4v orthos stops after 30 mins. also is it alright to have 4-4-4-12-2T timings @ 2.0v?


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hsma*


would it be alright to have 1.4v on my vcore? it seems to be stable. below 1.4v orthos stops after 30 mins. also is it alright to have 4-4-4-12-2T timings @ 2.0v?


Might wanna bump the voltage up to 2.1 or 2.2


----------



## TriBeCa

don't increase voltage to anything unless you need it for stability....


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hsma*


would it be alright to have 1.4v on my vcore? it seems to be stable. below 1.4v orthos stops after 30 mins. also is it alright to have 4-4-4-12-2T timings @ 2.0v?


If you're stable then yes.

----------

My NB is still on Auto. =S I was too lazy to figure out what worked and what didn't. So I just left it Auto. o.o


----------



## ragugh

i have my old pent 4 3.06 ghz (prescott) in this motherboard for now
(till i can get enough money for a core 2 e6600 or summin)
so i want to overclock this pent4
i have a zalman 9700 (****pwn)
so i want to overclock this
and im clueless on OCing at the moment
i used AI overclocking.. and i got to 10% increase, but at 15 or 20 i have problems (one permamenet long beeeep on powerup)
so, with volt mods etc...
yeah
thx.


----------



## mog

I updated bios to 0703 but It overclock very bad so I rollback to 0608. I wonder which is the best bios for OC. 
My memory can't break 1200Mhz (It can go farther with another board) Any suggestion?


----------



## xtascox

Just got my system up and running less than a week ago. Funny story: When I powered on a got a loud crack and a large puff of smoke from my 8600gts followed by a perfectly running system with no flaws(A bit of a scare though







). Must have been my system overjoycing at its new life! Currently running my P4 631 at 3.45 and plan to go farther.

One thing though. Maybe my cooling is just good but when using the asus probeII software it seems that my CPU temp does not change as frequently or as much as it did on my gigabyte board. Is this an issue and am I getting wrong temps or is it just normal? On the gigabyte board it ranged from 28 to 56 celsius but on this board im almost always between 36 and 45 celsius with very slow increases or decreases.


----------



## Blizzie

Erm... I would replace than 8600.. A crack sound and a puff of smoke?









Pentium 4.. Try PC Wizard 2007 or EVEREST to monitor temperatures.


----------



## Bonez

Has anybody else had problems using Corsair RAM (2x1024 XMS2 PC6400 C4)? because mine crashes stunningly and I have had to go back to the Kingston Value 667's. I've seen other people posting on ASUS's site with this problem but wondered if you guys know a way round this? All my drivers are the latest non Betas. All input gratefully received.

I think I'm changing MB next month - I'm getting fed up with it!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ragugh*


i used AI overclocking.. and i got to 10% increase, but at 15 or 20 i have problems (one permamenet long beeeep on powerup)
so, with volt mods etc...
yeah
thx.


Don't use the AI overclocking, its pretty much useless, change it to manual, then increase your FSB slowly say 800 --> 825, test if its still stable using orthos or prime95, if its still okay, bump the FSB up a little bit more and repeat. Watch your temps as you do this. If it becomes unstable and you temps are still acceptable, you can increase the Vcore slightly and go higher, or just back the FSB down a bit and keep it there for 24/7 use.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-guide.html

This might help, it gives a guide as how to safely overclock your cpu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mog*


I updated bios to 0703 but It overclock very bad so I rollback to 0608. I wonder which is the best bios for OC. 
My memory can't break 1200Mhz (It can go farther with another board) Any suggestion?


I'm still using the 04xx Bios and haven't had any problems, what voltage are you using for your memory and timings?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


Just got my system up and running less than a week ago. Funny story: When I powered on a got a loud crack and a large puff of smoke from my 8600gts followed by a perfectly running system with no flaws(A bit of a scare though







). Must have been my system overjoycing at its new life! Currently running my P4 631 at 3.45 and plan to go farther.

One thing though. Maybe my cooling is just good but when using the asus probeII software it seems that my CPU temp does not change as frequently or as much as it did on my gigabyte board. Is this an issue and am I getting wrong temps or is it just normal? On the gigabyte board it ranged from 28 to 56 celsius but on this board im almost always between 36 and 45 celsius with very slow increases or decreases.


I'd be very scared to still use that 8600 lol. And as for the temps, it might be different measurements, the CPU temp doesn't change much and changes slowly, but the core temperatures change a lot faster and more dramatically, try using a different program to measure the core temperatures, like everest, speedfan, not sure if Coretemp / TaT work on P4's though.


----------



## xtascox

Well I think the crack and puff of smoke came from the second dvi output because I am getting no response from it whatsoever. Not a big deal because I have gone back to one monitor to save desk space and my electric bill


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


Has anybody else had problems using Corsair RAM (2x1024 XMS2 PC6400 C4)? because mine crashes stunningly and I have had to go back to the Kingston Value 667's. I've seen other people posting on ASUS's site with this problem but wondered if you guys know a way round this? All my drivers are the latest non Betas. All input gratefully received.

I think I'm changing MB next month - I'm getting fed up with it!


Nope. Mines is fine. Mines is kept at 4-4-4-12-2T @ 2.1V and 800 MHz though. Not overclocked.


----------



## mog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


I'm still using the 04xx Bios and haven't had any problems, what voltage are you using for your memory and timings?


My memory Kingbox 2x1Gb IC Micron D9GMH 1200Mhz [email protected] OK with P5N-E SLI but cannot go father. This memory I bought from a guy with Gigabyte P35-DS3 he can reach 1260Mhz [email protected] without problem


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bonez* 
Has anybody else had problems using Corsair RAM (2x1024 XMS2 PC6400 C4)? because mine crashes stunningly and I have had to go back to the Kingston Value 667's. I've seen other people posting on ASUS's site with this problem but wondered if you guys know a way round this? All my drivers are the latest non Betas. All input gratefully received.

I think I'm changing MB next month - I'm getting fed up with it!

No, but my OCZ platinums killed two of the DIMM slots on my first board. This board is a bit finicky with RAM, so I've decided to stick only to RAM that's been tested by ASUS or by the RAM vendor in the board.

Did you manually set your voltage and timings to stock? The auto settings on this board often go to really loose timing, which is a pain because the board also doesn't like loose timings....


----------



## Christiaan

Hey, long time no see guys.
I finally have another little issue. Haha.

I bought a X-Fi XtremeGamer 3 weeks ago all seemed fine. I could enable Ultra and X-Fi mode in BF and EAX 4 HD in Doom3. This weekend I wanted to play some FEAR and found the EAX sound options greyed out, also I got Call of Juarez and the EAX won't enable there either. Dxdiag reported the card had no hardware acceleration. I've tried everything, short of a format. It just doesn't seem to want to work.

Now finally to the question related to the board. Does this motherboard have any issues with X-Fi sound cards?


----------



## willhub

Does this mobo not like E6600's at X7 multiplyer and 1900Mhz FSB (475 or something), as I set the Multiplyer of the CPU to 7x, then the FSB to 1900, 950Mhz ram, 2.2V, 4-4-4-12, and the PC would not boot, and when it did boot, my CPU Freq was at 1.86Ghz , so I thought, hmm maybe it is the ram, so put it back to the stable 800Mhz 4-4-4-12, 2.2V settings and still nothing, works fine at 3.2Ghz, 1600FSB and 800Mhz ram.

I think it booted at 1904Mhz, but after that would not boot again.

Also will it be fine trying my E6600 at 6x multiplyer, 2136Mhz FSB?


----------



## MexxT

Oh nice board!

Mine is running 500MHz FSB @ 1,5v on the 650i (Freezer 7 Pro on northbridge







)
The cpu is a E6300 @ 3,5GHz.

The only problem i have is that if my Dualchannel Kingston DDR667 kit (2x 1GB) runs in dualchannel modus the mobo can't clock higher than 333MHz FSB.. This is with Linked modus. When i unlink and Clock the memory @ 667MHz it wo'nt boot @ 500MHz, i have to run 533MHz Singlechannel before it wil boot @ 500MHz









Verry weard, is there a solution to this?

i was plannig to run 4GB in dualchannel with 4 dimms, but if the kingston won't work, i will sell it, and buy Crucials.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Hey, long time no see guys.
I finally have another little issue. Haha.

I bought a X-Fi XtremeGamer 3 weeks ago all seemed fine. I could enable Ultra and X-Fi mode in BF and EAX 4 HD in Doom3. This weekend I wanted to play some FEAR and found the EAX sound options greyed out, also I got Call of Juarez and the EAX won't enable there either. Dxdiag reported the card had no hardware acceleration. I've tried everything, short of a format. It just doesn't seem to want to work.

Now finally to the question related to the board. Does this motherboard have any issues with X-Fi sound cards?


Not that I know of.. That was the soundcard I wanted too.







Maybe it.. died?


----------



## Christiaan

No idea, it's like it's a Xtreme Audio packaged as a Xtreme Gamer. Oh well. I RMA'd it. So we'll wait and see.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Does this mobo not like E6600's at X7 multiplyer and 1900Mhz FSB (475 or something), as I set the Multiplyer of the CPU to 7x, then the FSB to 1900, 950Mhz ram, 2.2V, 4-4-4-12, and the PC would not boot, and when it did boot, my CPU Freq was at 1.86Ghz , so I thought, hmm maybe it is the ram, so put it back to the stable 800Mhz 4-4-4-12, 2.2V settings and still nothing, works fine at 3.2Ghz, 1600FSB and 800Mhz ram.

I think it booted at 1904Mhz, but after that would not boot again.

Also will it be fine trying my E6600 at 6x multiplyer, 2136Mhz FSB?

Uhhh...you didn't just jump from 400 to 475 did you? At that point I'd inch up in ~5 Hz steps, increasing voltages as needed. If you just jump up you'll never get a stable boot at the higher FSB.

Make speedstep and C1E are disabled.... And the 1.86GHz boot was probably the mobo booting into 'safe mode' after a failed OC.

Also, if you're having trouble getting a stable boot, try reducing your LDT multiplier.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MexxT* 
Oh nice board!

Mine is running 500MHz FSB @ 1,5v on the 650i (Freezer 7 Pro on northbridge







)
The cpu is a E6300 @ 3,5GHz.

The only problem i have is that if my Dualchannel Kingston DDR667 kit (2x 1GB) runs in dualchannel modus the mobo can't clock higher than 333MHz FSB.. This is with Linked modus. When i unlink and Clock the memory @ 667MHz it wo'nt boot @ 500MHz, i have to run 533MHz Singlechannel before it wil boot @ 500MHz









Verry weard, is there a solution to this?

i was plannig to run 4GB in dualchannel with 4 dimms, but if the kingston won't work, i will sell it, and buy Crucials.

Hrrrm. Not too sure. This board can be a bit finicky with RAM....

Only thing I can recommend is making sure your timings are manually set to stock, and that you've got enough vdimm going...maybe even try pushing it above stock, for stock settings. It's _possible_ that the high amount of vcore you've got going is leading to undervolting on the RAM...or alternatively, if you've got your vdimm set to auto the board may be undervolting the CPU. I know Pook said a WHILE back that he was able to achieve better OCing results on his CPU by *reducing* vdimm, leaving more power available for the chip. Anyway, I dunno exactly, but I'd try fiddling around with RAM timings and vdimm if I were you


----------



## Asce

Has anyone tried to sort the vdroop out on this board yet.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Uhhh...you didn't just jump from 400 to 475 did you? At that point I'd inch up in ~5 Hz steps, increasing voltages as needed. If you just jump up you'll never get a stable boot at the higher FSB.

Make speedstep and C1E are disabled.... And the 1.86GHz boot was probably the mobo booting into 'safe mode' after a failed OC.

Also, if you're having trouble getting a stable boot, try reducing your LDT multiplier.


So from 1600 - 1900 I need to go up in 5Mhz? I'm currently at 1650MHZ fsb, 3.3Ghz, 1.42V load and testing.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Nope. Mines is fine. Mines is kept at 4-4-4-12-2T @ 2.1V and 800 MHz though. Not overclocked.


Cheers, that's a thought. Auto reads the wrong speeds for the KIngston Value as well. It reads as 5-6-6-18.

I'll give it a try and let you know whether it works. Did you manually enter your speeds after trial and error or do you always avoid auto settings?

Posts I'd seen before about manual voltage settings were spot on. My limit on Auto settings was 2.5Ghz but I was stable with Manuals up to 3.0 when I had to up the NB voltage.

Started to get some odd visuals on STALKER though - Psychadelic green lines and panels etc


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
So from 1600 - 1900 I need to go up in 5Mhz? I'm currently at 1650MHZ fsb, 3.3Ghz, 1.42V load and testing.

Sorry, 5 Hz in terms of actual FSB, not rated FSB. So 20Hz jumps in rated FSB. Of course that's approximate, but I *definately* wouldn't do any jumps higher than 25 Hz rated FSB. Also, there's little point in testing each FSB...just see if you can get into windows and survive 60 seconds of orthos. If so, move on to the next value, and continue 'till you hit your goal. Once you get there you can focus on getting orthos stable to ~8 hours or w/e your target is, which usually involves more vcore and maybe more NB voltage.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Sorry, 5 Hz in terms of actual FSB, not rated FSB. So 20Hz jumps in rated FSB. Of course that's approximate, but I *definately* wouldn't do any jumps higher than 25 Hz rated FSB. Also, there's little point in testing each FSB...just see if you can get into windows and survive 60 seconds of orthos. If so, move on to the next value, and continue 'till you hit your goal. Once you get there you can focus on getting orthos stable to ~8 hours or w/e your target is, which usually involves more vcore and maybe more NB voltage.

Thanks

I decided to go up in 10Mhz on the FSB, I am now 40Mhz from 3.4Ghz, I got 3 hours in Orthos at 3.3Ghz, had ot raise the voltage to 1.5V, 1.42V load, now at 1.36Ghz, 1.52V idle, 1.42V load still, orthos been going 6 mins so far, hoping it will hold.

I'll do an 8 hours orthos test tomorrow.

I got 1:1 ratio too, 840 on the ram, 1680 on the fsb.

This replacement ram I got seems better, 840Mhz, stock voltage, 4-4-4-12-2T.


----------



## TriBeCa

nice. your vcore seems a bit high...but if you're sure you need it, then fine. azncoder says there's an FSB hole on this board, where it either won't post or needs crazy voltage between 1600-1800 FSB. so if you're stable, you *might* try hitting like 1800 or 1815 FSB with your current settings, and then seeing if you can reduce vcore.

also, what's your NB voltage at? partly i'm just curious, to compare it to mine at roughly that FSB....


----------



## MexxT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Uhhh...you didn't just jump from 400 to 475 did 
Hrrrm. Not too sure. This board can be a bit finicky with RAM....

Only thing I can recommend is making sure your timings are manually set to stock, and that you've got enough vdimm going...maybe even try pushing it above stock, for stock settings. It's _possible_ that the high amount of vcore you've got going is leading to undervolting on the RAM...or alternatively, if you've got your vdimm set to auto the board may be undervolting the CPU. I know Pook said a WHILE back that he was able to achieve better OCing results on his CPU by *reducing* vdimm, leaving more power available for the chip. Anyway, I dunno exactly, but I'd try fiddling around with RAM timings and vdimm if I were you










Well, if i use auto, it boots nomaly, 1,95v won't boot.

weard.. i'll go and buy crucials


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


nice. your vcore seems a bit high...but if you're sure you need it, then fine. azncoder says there's an FSB hole on this board, where it either won't post or needs crazy voltage between 1600-1800 FSB. so if you're stable, you *might* try hitting like 1800 or 1815 FSB with your current settings, and then seeing if you can reduce vcore.

also, what's your NB voltage at? partly i'm just curious, to compare it to mine at roughly that FSB....


I've got it at 1.7V, I have a 60mm fan on it aswell.

I cant try hit 1800 on my current settings, my CPU probs wont go that high, I'll have to lower the multiplyer, I am at 3.379Ghz now, 845Mhz on the ram, only 3 mins in orthos, will give it 20 then up the fsb abit more.

I have that LDP ot w/e it's called frequency at 2x aswell.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MexxT* 
Well, if i use auto, it boots nomaly, 1,95v won't boot.

weard.. i'll go and buy crucials









ok. the auto setting is almost definately giving more than 1.95. the auto voltage settings on this board tend to go crazy high when you OC. I'm guessing it's at at least 2.1, if not higher. if pook was right, it might even be giving so much to your RAM that it's undervolting your cpu...which might be the stability problem you're having with dual channel. I'd say you should find the minimum manual voltage setting that will let you boot...and see if it behaves normally.

of course kingston isn't exactly a big name in overclocking ;p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
I've got it at 1.7V, I have a 60mm fan on it aswell.

I cant try hit 1800 on my current settings, my CPU probs wont go that high, I'll have to lower the multiplyer, I am at 3.379Ghz now, 845Mhz on the ram, only 3 mins in orthos, will give it 20 then up the fsb abit more.

I have that LDP ot w/e it's called frequency at 2x aswell.

I'd say it's worth a try...with the lower multi. see if you can achieve that FSB at all.


----------



## nirvania

anyone having trouble updating to 0703? i updated from 0608 and it would freeze at the bootscreen, if I tried to boot into safemode, it would give me a bluescreen, i had to downgrade down to 0608 to be able to boot again


----------



## TriBeCa

lol you're lucky you could downgrade. before 0703 was released i tried to update to some 06xx version and destroyed my board. apparently ASUS couldn't repair it either cause they're sending me a new board


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I'd say it's worth a try...with the lower multi. see if you can achieve that FSB at all.


I've got orthos running now, it's fine atm, but Desktop Windows Manager stopped working, now last time that happened I usually got a BSOD or a reset minutes later, havent yet, only been testing at 3.37Ghz for 10 mins.

So I should lower the Multiplyer to 7x or just try it at 8x, 3.6Ghz?

Ok, for 3.37Ghz I needed to raise the voltage, to 1.55, thats 1.47V load, damnd I want it set to 1.5V and stay at 1.5V load, I'm hurting idle temps here.

load temp is 57 degrees.


----------



## Christiaan

What chipset drivers must I install? I tried the 650i drivers from NVidia and I couldn't get my LAN working. Reinstall of the old drivers didn't work either. It messed it up completely. I had to system restore. :/

The drivers from the Asus site are from December 2006 it seems?


----------



## Murlocke

http://www.nvidia.com/object/nf_650i_winxp32_8.43.html

Those I believe.

There are the Ultra versions to. (I have no idea if your chipset is a ultra..)
http://www.nvidia.com/object/nf_650i...xp32_8.44.html

If it happens after I would just uncheck the ethernet driver when installing the drivers, maybe your motherboard has a different onboard networking than normal nforce 650i motherboards?


----------



## Perry

Hey folks.

I'm still looking at getting this board but my time frame keeps getting pushed back. One question that I have now is will this board support DDR2-1066? You've pushed this thread to too many pages for me to sift through (good job







) since I'm pretty lazy.

An old Anandtech article said that they couldn't get it to run stable but that was a while back.

Thanks!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
I've got orthos running now, it's fine atm, but Desktop Windows Manager stopped working, now last time that happened I usually got a BSOD or a reset minutes later, havent yet, only been testing at 3.37Ghz for 10 mins.

So I should lower the Multiplyer to 7x or just try it at 8x, 3.6Ghz?

Ok, for 3.37Ghz I needed to raise the voltage, to 1.55, thats 1.47V load, damnd I want it set to 1.5V and stay at 1.5V load, I'm hurting idle temps here.

load temp is 57 degrees.

try 8x, and then 7x if it doesn't work? Like i said, I've been told there's a hole from ~1600-1800, but I haven't tested for it myself. Of course, pushing your chip up to that speed gives a reasonable chance you won't get a post, so make sure you're prepared to reset the BIOS with the battery and jumper before you try it.

That's an awesome load temp for how much voltage you're putting into your chip...but yeah, I'd definately be nervous about running it 1.55V regardless of the temp. Kiiinda high.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Hey folks.

I'm still looking at getting this board but my time frame keeps getting pushed back. One question that I have now is will this board support DDR2-1066? You've pushed this thread to too many pages for me to sift through (good job







) since I'm pretty lazy.

An old Anandtech article said that they couldn't get it to run stable but that was a while back.

Thanks!

Not sure I know of anyone who's actually using a pair of 1066 sticks at stock, but I'm pretty sure I've seen people around here who've OC'd their RAM that far...if that helps?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Murlocke* 
http://www.nvidia.com/object/nf_650i_winxp32_8.43.html

Those I believe.

There are the Ultra versions to. (I have no idea if your chipset is a ultra..)
http://www.nvidia.com/object/nf_650i...xp32_8.44.html

If it happens after I would just uncheck the ethernet driver when installing the drivers, maybe your motherboard has a different onboard networking than normal nforce 650i motherboards?

I think that's the one I downloaded. But I'm staying away from that now.

On a side note. What would cause my onboard sound to lose hardware acceleration and give crackle noises intermittently?


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Not sure I know of anyone who's actually using a pair of 1066 sticks at stock, but I'm pretty sure I've seen people around here who've OC'd their RAM that far...if that helps?

I'm looking at the Crucial Ballistix DDR2-1066 simply because if I decide to upgrade again (althought DDR3 will probably be mainstream by then) I'll have memory that can handle everything I'll need it to handle. For an extra $35, why not?

While I know that people can run DDR2-800 at 1066 and it will work on this board, I'm wondering if you can use actual DDR2-1066 sticks? My next question would be if this board cannot run them properly, can I set them to run at DDR2-800 in the BIOS and then "overclock" them?

I wouldn't really be overclocking them but rather tricking the board and getting the stock speed or beyond out of them.


----------



## TriBeCa

This is what memory configurators are for









According to Crucial, this and this will both work in the P5N-E. So you should be fine, as long as you get one of those two kits (and not another crucial kit)


----------



## Perry

Perfect!

I'm not sure why I didn't check Crucial's configurator. I remember doing checking into Mushkin and Corsair but didn't stop and think about checking the Crucial site.

Looks like I'm going with the Tracers since I'm a sucker for shiny things.


----------



## willhub

Today I was running Orthos for about 1 hour 30 mins today at which point I had to go out so stopped it.

My CPU was at 3.4Ghz, 1.47V (Load), 1.55V on desktop (Cant do nothing about it, need to get it pencil modded but dare not do it).

My idle temp is around 28-29-30 degrees whilst my Load temp is 59 degrees with 3.4 and 1.47V.


----------



## TriBeCa

willhub...looks good to me. you're at your max safe temp, and I really wouldn't put the vcore any higher...it's pretty freaking high as it is.

might wanna do a longer orthos run if you can...i ran into some trouble with mine at 4 hours (upped vcore one notch) and then at 6 hours (upped vcore again) before i got it stable to 8 hours.

you also might wanna try c1e and speedstep turned on once you get stable...it probably won't be stable, but if it is then you'll save a lot of stress on your chip.


----------



## willhub

Ok, thanks will try that.

I'm thinking of buying a DS3R but cant afford it, this mobo must be duff or something.

Gonna have to ghost windows now, I put the multiplyer to 7x and started to raise the fsb past 1700Mhz, 1820, Bosd, 1800, windows crashed, 1780, Windows had a corrupt file apparently, 1740, the loading bar kept on going forever, 1700, it loads, and now I am in back at my normal clocks and 8c multiplyer, stuff aint working right


----------



## MexxT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


ok. the auto setting is almost definately giving more than 1.95. the auto voltage settings on this board tend to go crazy high when you OC. I'm guessing it's at at least 2.1, if not higher. if pook was right, it might even be giving so much to your RAM that it's undervolting your cpu...which might be the stability problem you're having with dual channel. I'd say you should find the minimum manual voltage setting that will let you boot...and see if it behaves normally.

of course kingston isn't exactly a big name in overclocking ;p


Hmmm,

Running 1,920v now, Singlechannel 667MHz (stock of the ram)
CPU @ 1,5125 in bios and 1,47 for real.

And it boots









Why won't dualchannel work.. 
damn this is confusing..

EDIT//

Dualchannel

1,5125v @ cpu 
1,563v @ nb

All the mem voltages are crashing when vista boots.
2,5v won't even boot. It results in a Manual bios reset.. :s


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
This is what memory configurators are for









According to Crucial, this and this will both work in the P5N-E. So you should be fine, as long as you get one of those two kits (and not another crucial kit)









I have Crucial Balistix PC5300 and they work fine with this mobo, I think


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willhub*


I have Crucial Balistix PC5300 and they work fine with this mobo, I think










he was asking about PC8500 kits exclusively, so I didn't include any other crucial kits

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willhub*


Ok, thanks will try that.

I'm thinking of buying a DS3R but cant afford it, this mobo must be duff or something.

Gonna have to ghost windows now, I put the multiplyer to 7x and started to raise the fsb past 1700Mhz, 1820, Bosd, 1800, windows crashed, 1780, Windows had a corrupt file apparently, 1740, the loading bar kept on going forever, 1700, it loads, and now I am in back at my normal clocks and 8c multiplyer, stuff aint working right


errr. are you working backwards? "loading bar kept going forever"...probably means you need more vcore or NB voltage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MexxT*


Hmmm,

Running 1,920v now, Singlechannel 667MHz (stock of the ram)
CPU @ 1,5125 in bios and 1,47 for real.

And it boots









Why won't dualchannel work.. 
damn this is confusing..

EDIT//

Dualchannel

1,5125v @ cpu 
1,563v @ nb

All the mem voltages are crashing when vista boots.
2,5v won't even boot. It results in a Manual bios reset.. :s


...but dualchannel works at stock settings? if it does, the ONLY thing I can think of is some voltage problem. did you try the RAM in both pairs of DIMM slots? try changing BIOS versions? if it doesn't work at stock, though, I'd RMA the board....

it's probably also worth trying 1.7V on the NB...this board seems to like it.


----------



## MexxT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


...but dualchannel works at stock settings? if it does, the ONLY thing I can think of is some voltage problem. did you try the RAM in both pairs of DIMM slots? try changing BIOS versions? if it doesn't work at stock, though, I'd RMA the board....

it's probably also worth trying 1.7V on the NB...this board seems to like it.



At stock it works fine. 
I can clock to 333MHz FSB (max of the ram) but i need to link the mem. Unlinked = no-go

Bios 702 doesn't work, and voltages.. see my last post.

personally i am thinking about some kind of compatibility issue..


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, it could be a compatability problem. do you know if that RAM has been tested by kingston or ASUS? i.e. is it on the QVL, and/or does it show up in a kingston memory configurator for that board?

and by 'voltage problem' i meant a problem with the board being able to supply enough voltage to the DIMM slots.

and...did you try 1.7V on the NB? your last post said you were at 1.5V.


----------



## MexxT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
yeah, it could be a compatability problem. do you know if that RAM has been tested by kingston or ASUS? i.e. is it on the QVL, and/or does it show up in a kingston memory configurator for that board?

and by 'voltage problem' i meant a problem with the board being able to supply enough voltage to the DIMM slots.

and...did you try 1.7V on the NB? your last post said you were at 1.5V.

i'll try 1,7v tomorrow


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


he was asking about PC8500 kits exclusively, so I didn't include any other crucial kits

errr. are you working backwards? "loading bar kept going forever"...probably means you need more vcore or NB voltage.


1.45V at 3Ghz? more Vcore? it's fine at 3.4Ghz 1.47V lol, NB voltage has always been at 1.7V.


----------



## TriBeCa

could be an FSB wall...again I haven't had a chance to test for it myself (waiting on a new board from ASUS RMA dept), but according to azncoder there's an FSB wall between 1600-1800, which might be what you're experiencing. try booting up at 1820 or so, with a reasonable amount of vcore. probably should try it at 6x at first too.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


could be an FSB wall...again I haven't had a chance to test for it myself (waiting on a new board from ASUS RMA dept), but according to azncoder there's an FSB wall between 1600-1800, which might be what you're experiencing. try booting up at 1820 or so, with a reasonable amount of vcore. probably should try it at 6x at first too.


When a rainy day comes out I'll try it at 3.2Ghz 6x multiplyer then 3.4Ghz.


----------



## brandon6199

Has anyone with a P5N-E SLI been able to get 450 MHz FSB? (1800 MHz effective)?

No matter how high I bump my vcore, I can never get over 450 MHz...










help??


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Has anyone with a P5N-E SLI been able to get 450 MHz FSB? (1800 MHz effective)?

No matter how high I bump my vcore, I can never get over 450 MHz...










help??










Yes, I cant get over 450Mhz fsb at all, infact, I have problems with 1700-1800fsb, but over 1800fsb is no go for me.

Have you even tried raising the NB Voltage?


----------



## brandon6199

Yep, I even put it to the max setting. I'm at 1800 MHz FSB right now, FULLY stable, and 1801 MHz doesn't even POST for me.

Anything above 1800 MHz FSB = No POST for me.

I have the 0608 BIOS...

helpp


----------



## jesusiscool

Hey all i recently just upgraded to my new mean system, and i gotz the p5n-e cause it added up to be the best for what i want at a good price, uhh i havent really touched the bios yet, what could i do to optimise it a bit?


----------



## MexxT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Has anyone with a P5N-E SLI been able to get 450 MHz FSB? (1800 MHz effective)?

No matter how high I bump my vcore, I can never get over 450 MHz...










help??










I'm running 500Mhz 24/7
510 = nogo
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=236789
oh! the voltage is 1,56v for the nb.

How does this board overclock with a quadcore? 
My Q6600 ES should arrive monday or thuseday


----------



## Asce

You will be the first to find out. But im thinking not to good as the 680i are having a bad time with them


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

I think you need more NB voltage if you're gonna try above 500 FSB


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Has anyone with a P5N-E SLI been able to get 450 MHz FSB? (1800 MHz effective)?

No matter how high I bump my vcore, I can never get over 450 MHz...










help??










Yes, 2 boards of mine have done well over 520 FSB.


----------



## willhub

Well, I've got another problem, at 8x Multiplyer, 3.4Ghz, I cant go over 850Mhz ram, anything over, especially 1000Mhz and I get no booting or crashing, yet its perfectly fine at 3.4Ghz, 1000Mhz, 9x multiplayer, just 3.4Ghz is no were near as stable as it is at 8x multiplyer :\\.

The FSB wont do anything over 1700 properly here, just compleatly resests or makes windows produce an error message which only goes away when I correct the clocks.


----------



## brandon6199

Thanks guys, will try it soon.

EDIT: And AzN1337c0d3r, do you remember the vcore you used to get over 520 fsb?


----------



## brandon6199

GAH!
















I just tried 1850 FSB with 1.4 vcore and 1.56 NB voltage and it STILL wouldnt post...























I know that's plenty of voltage because this dude got 3.85 GHz on 1.41 vcore...

http://xtreview.com/addcomment-id-22...rclocking.html

Anyone PLEASE help me - whoever does will be rewarded with rep and my uttermost respect


----------



## TriBeCa

you can't always go by what other people achieved. every chip is different, as is every board.... i needed 1.7NB and 1.45 vcore to hit 1600 on my e6400.


----------



## brandon6199

Yeah, maybe I got a bad chip









EDIT: Would you guys recommend putting the northbridge voltage up to 1.7? I have the stock heatsink on, and the voltage for it is currently on "auto"


----------



## TriBeCa

lol it's probably on 1.7 already ;p

i had mine on 1.7 with the stock heatsink, although i reseated it with AS5 as soon as i got the board. worked like a charm. apparently it shortens the life of the chipset, regardless of temp, but there's no indication that it's a significant reduction. if you don't plan on using your board for more than, say, 3 years, i'd say go for it ;p


----------



## willhub

I've got mine at 1700fsb, 1.7V, 425Mhz QDR, 1.56V stock and still cant get anything over 1700fsb stable, cant be my temps, right now I'm at 57 degrees load on the CPU, 3.4Ghz, 1.47V load, cool day.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willhub*


I've got mine at 1700fsb, 1.7V, 425Mhz QDR, 1.56V stock and still cant get anything over 1700fsb stable, cant be my temps, right now I'm at 57 degrees load on the CPU, 3.4Ghz, 1.47V load, cool day.


Strange...

I'm at stock vcore (1.250v) and I'm overclocked to 1800 fsb, 450 QDR









And my northbridge voltage is on "auto"


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
Strange...

I'm at stock vcore (1.250v) and I'm overclocked to 1800 fsb, 450 QDR









And my northbridge voltage is on "auto"

What multiplyer is your CPU at? 9x?

At the moment I've got my CPU pushed as far as it will go, 3.4Ghz 1.47V load, 1.56-1.57V idle, 57 degrees load, and currently testing orthos, 2 hours nearly so far, but I need to get my fsb higher so that I can get 3.4Ghz but also have my ram at a high speed whilst still been on a 1:1 fsb:ram ratio, only at 850Mhz 4-4-4-12 stock volts atm







.


----------



## brandon6199

My multiplier is at 7x. (450x7=3150)

I also just tried my northbridge on 1.7 volts, still no post.

I guess I cant get past 3.15 GHz on my CPU...

EDIT: this is the furthest I could push my CPU with my motherboard:

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237397


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
My multiplier is at 7x. (450x7=3150)

I also just tried my northbridge on 1.7 volts, still no post.

I guess I cant get past 3.15 GHz on my CPU...

EDIT: this is the furthest I could push my CPU with my motherboard:

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237397

Aint those G0 CPU's supposed to be the best overclockers aswell?


----------



## Sin316

have this board since 2 months now, and i love it. FSB 2000 , 88%overclock , all stock voltages












very happy with this board.

(and it does support 1333 fsb cpu's with latest bios, i.e. E6x50 series, aswell.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Aint those G0 CPU's supposed to be the best overclockers aswell?

yes but there's something seriously messed up with my setup


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sin316* 
have this board since 2 months now, and i love it. FSB 2000 , 88%overclock , all stock voltages












very happy with this board.

(and it does support 1333 fsb cpu's with latest bios, i.e. E6x50 series, aswell.

Did you leave Vcore to auto?


----------



## Sin316

yes


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sin316* 
yes

You wont be at stock volts then, as when you leave it to Auto, it takes the voltage up when you overclock the CPU, looks like it's at 1.45V there, you wont be at stock volts tho, what is Speedfan reading? CPU-Z is often wrong with the voltages, the latest version 1.41.0 reads voltages correctly though.


----------



## Sin316

cpuz keeps changing vcore output from 1.238 to 1.456.

I'm pretty sure the voltage didn't raise tho. Especially since the temps basicly didn't changed.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sin316* 
cpuz keeps changing vcore output from 1.238 to 1.456.

I'm pretty sure the voltage didn't raise tho. Especially since the temps basicly didn't changed.

The Version of CPU-Z you are using does not read Voltages correctly, download SpeedFan and check with that.

55degrees load seems high for stock volts if it is indeed at stock volts.


----------



## Sin316

VCore1 :1.55V


----------



## The Pook

Woo. I got back another DOA board from Asus.









Go Asus. You guys can't seem to figure out that people who have broken boards want one that actually works back.

Bought some cheap ass AsRock board to hold be over.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sin316* 
VCore1 :1.55V

Yeah that isn't no stock volts lol, try taking it off manual and slowly bring the volts down and test with orthos.


----------



## Sin316

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Yeah that isn't no stock volts lol, try taking it off manual and slowly bring the volts down and test with orthos.


why bringing them down ? ^^ My pc runs stable as a rock for like a month now with 3.5 ghz.


----------



## Sin316

and if only i knew what the stock vcore of my E6320 is lol.


----------



## brandon6199

The stock vcore of all Core 2 Duo's is 1.25v as far as I know. I'm at 1.25v. I just WISH I could get over my FSB wall























3.26 GHz on stock voltage is already amazing by itself, but I want to up the voltages and hit 3.5 GHz at least...

do you guys think a BIOS update would help?


----------



## Sin316

testing now with 1.5 vcore. 1.35-1.45 wouldn't even boot up windows









btw, whats the stock NB/SB voltages ?

ps : cpu temp is now at ~50Â°C full load with stock cooler ^^ (Cores are max. 60Â°C , MB 44Â°C) @everest and speedfan

PS : Vcore idle = 1.500V , Load = 1.44V


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Woo. I got back another DOA board from Asus.









Go Asus. You guys can't seem to figure out that people who have broken boards want one that actually works back.

Bought some cheap ass AsRock board to hold be over.


I'm praying my next board works.... I told the guy on the phone that they're getting a reputation for RMAing DOA boards, and he told me they just did a review of their QC department and hired a bunch more people. So with any luck they'll start sending out working boards....


----------



## brandon6199

I RMA'd and got a working board









But it shouldn't have been a dead one in the first place...


----------



## The Pook

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I'm praying my next board works.... I told the guy on the phone that they're getting a reputation for RMAing DOA boards, and he told me they just did a review of their QC department and hired a bunch more people. So with any luck they'll start sending out working boards....


I'm on my 4th, so I'll believe it when I get a working one.


----------



## brandon6199

If I upgraded my BIOS, would there be any chance of pushing my overclocks further? I KNOW my CPU and motherboard can go much further than this.


----------



## The Pook

E6550's tap out pretty low, which is why you don't see many people recommending them.

You probably *are* tapped out.

Worth a shot though.


----------



## Sin316

ok, vcore 1.5 wasnt good either (neither was 1.525). set it back to Auto (1.55v @ 3.5ghz)

i think the auto pretty much nails the perfect , working voltage


----------



## willhub

I wish I waited for price drops now, might of got a decent overclocking C2D instead of this awfull overclocking E6600


----------



## jesusiscool

hey all, i got corsair xms2 5300 ram, but im not too sure on the overclocking side of things for ram, could someone give me a little help please


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
E6550's tap out pretty low, which is why you don't see many people recommending them.

You probably *are* tapped out.

Worth a shot though.

Plenty of people on this site have easily gotten over 3.5 GHz, and this guy got 3.85 GHz on only 1.41 volts.

http://xtreview.com/addcomment-id-22...rclocking.html

I know it's not the E6550, I'm doing something wrong or my CPU batch or something sucks.


----------



## willhub

I'm confused, in Vista I can do 8 hours + stable at 3.4Ghz, 850Mhz ram, 1.47V, I can also do 3DM06 over again with no errors, but in XP, I crash in 3DM06 at 3.4Ghz, also on the desktop too, and with my 850/1020Mhz 2900XT overclock, that is fine in Vista, but unstable in XP :s.

Could it be the mobo? XP even takes aaagggess to load :s


----------



## jesusiscool

lol, could be a bung install of windows


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


lol, could be a bung install of windows


Yea it was, I re installed Windows, before I had XP on my 160gb IDE drive and Vista on my 320GB SATAII HDD, so I deleted Vista, installed XP, disconnected the 160GB drive and XP is fine







, got 3DMark all the way this time at 2.4Ghz, 850Mhz ram, 860/1050 on the 2900 and got 12383 in 3DMark06









Shame I like Vista more, gonna have to ghost back to Vista install.

Just one question, should my performance be any slower by having XP and Vista on the same 320GB WDC Sata drive but obviously on a different partition? this mobo dont seem to like my drive so just wondering.


----------



## brandon6199

Vista will always be slower in 3dmark06 than XP.


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
Vista will always be slower in 3dmark06 than XP.

What makes you think that? this means may always be slower in DX9 in Vista.


----------



## Asce

Well Vista isnt as good as XP for gaming atm, but hopefully that should be fixed soon.


----------



## willhub

Just wondering.

Does anyone with an Asus P5N-E SLi have a Western Digital Caviar SE16 320GB SATA II HDD? If so, whats the config of it in the Bios? set to Auto or Large etc..?


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Auto should be fine for most modern day motherboards and HDs. Are you having issues with Auto?


----------



## jesusiscool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
Shame I like Vista more, gonna have to ghost back to Vista install.

if it was just the look of vista you liked then you can make XP look almost Exactly like vista, try Vista Transformation Pack 7.0, its really good, and also see details Here. i am currently using it and its fine, looks awsome, and to get the transparency u need windows blinds 5 enhanced, search google if you want it.


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r*


Auto should be fine for most modern day motherboards and HDs. Are you having issues with Auto?


I dont actually know if I am having issues.

Does 1 hours 45 mins seem fine to you copying 86GB from a 160GB IDE HDD to a 230GB partition on a 320GB SATA II HDD? and 2 hours from the SATA II to the IDE?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


if it was just the look of vista you liked then you can make XP look almost Exactly like vista, try Vista Transformation Pack 7.0, its really good, and also see details Here. i am currently using it and its fine, looks awsome, and to get the transparency u need windows blinds 5 enhanced, search google if you want it.


It's not just the theme, I like Vista and its features, maybe you can get them for XP, but the fact they are all there and built in is something that I like instead of having to install them all.


----------



## Spectre21

Brilliant board, been running it for a while now and its awesome, Vista works perfectly, Any probs with drivers & vista, or general XP let me know and i,ll do my best to help ya folks out


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spectre21*


Brilliant board, been running it for a while now and its awesome, Vista works perfectly, Any probs with drivers & vista, or general XP let me know and i,ll do my best to help ya folks out










I see you have a WDC 320GB in your rig, is this a SATA II drive? If so, whats the config set up like for it in the Bios?

Thanks
Willz.


----------



## huxark

Hello everybody,
i have purchased the following box
Intel Q6600 2.4 GHZ FSB 1066 revision B3
4 GB Corsair TakeMS2 ddr2800
Gainward Gforce 8800 GTS
Cooler Scythe Infinty
Power source 600 Watts Soly-Tech AL-8600EPS
MotherBoard nvidia 650i Asus p5ne-sli
Windows vista 64 bit ultimate
I tried to overclock the system but without success, only to 2.7 ghz, any value above in any combination resulted in system failure, I tried different FSB and linked and unlinked, I have put the settings of the voltage on auto and manually adjusted them from 1.25 to 1.35 without positive results. Can you please tell me how to do it? I mean FSB, memory clock, timings, voltage etc.
Here are the stable settings FSB 1200 ddr2 timings 4-4-4-12-2t unlinked core voltage on auto.
By system failure i mean didn't boot/post, had to reset CMOS from jumper.
Thanks! my email is [email protected]


----------



## Sin316

having to use the jumper to reset cmos seems something you wouldn't have to do.


----------



## huxark

yes that's true, guess that CPR doesn't always work







i mean it worked for a couple of times and bios revision is 0703


----------



## thecelticfan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *huxark*


yes that's true, guess that CPR doesn't always work







i mean it worked for a couple of times and bios revision is 0703


I have a similar setup. Q6600 4gb ram. I am unable to get past the 2.7ghz even with water cooling. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Asce

For one Quads dont OC that well on Nvidia boards and maybe you just have reached the fsb wall.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
I dont actually know if I am having issues.

Does 1 hours 45 mins seem fine to you copying 86GB from a 160GB IDE HDD to a 230GB partition on a 320GB SATA II HDD? and 2 hours from the SATA II to the IDE?

It's not just the theme, I like Vista and its features, maybe you can get them for XP, but the fact they are all there and built in is something that I like instead of having to install them all.

For Vista it is. I don't know why but under Vista all my file operation speeds take a dump.


----------



## Sin316

what are "good" temperatures of the "motherboard" reading on this card ?


----------



## willhub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin316*


what are "good" temperatures of the "motherboard" reading on this card ?


What card? you mean the motherboard? well what is your temps? The motherboard temp sensor is down near all the front i/ connectors, just for case temp really, it should be fine unless you have no fans.


----------



## Sin316

was arguing with some friend about the temps hehe. my mobo sensor shows 36(idle) to 42 (full load), im sure thats fine, but he thinks its too high ...


----------



## Asce

That should be fine.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willhub*


Yea it was, I re installed Windows, before I had XP on my 160gb IDE drive and Vista on my 320GB SATAII HDD, so I deleted Vista, installed XP, disconnected the 160GB drive and XP is fine







, got 3DMark all the way this time at 2.4Ghz, 850Mhz ram, 860/1050 on the 2900 and got 12383 in 3DMark06









Shame I like Vista more, gonna have to ghost back to Vista install.

Just one question, should my performance be any slower by having XP and Vista on the same 320GB WDC Sata drive but obviously on a different partition? this mobo dont seem to like my drive so just wondering.


as far as i understand it, windows never likes not being right at the front of a drive. even if you put it on a seperate partition, whichever install is located on the later drive sectors will perform relatively poorly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *huxark*


Hello everybody,
i have purchased the following box
Intel Q6600 2.4 GHZ FSB 1066 revision B3
4 GB Corsair TakeMS2 ddr2800
Gainward Gforce 8800 GTS
Cooler Scythe Infinty
Power source 600 Watts Soly-Tech AL-8600EPS
MotherBoard nvidia 650i Asus p5ne-sli
Windows vista 64 bit ultimate
I tried to overclock the system but without success, only to 2.7 ghz, any value above in any combination resulted in system failure, I tried different FSB and linked and unlinked, I have put the settings of the voltage on auto and manually adjusted them from 1.25 to 1.35 without positive results. Can you please tell me how to do it? I mean FSB, memory clock, timings, voltage etc.
Here are the stable settings FSB 1200 ddr2 timings 4-4-4-12-2t unlinked core voltage on auto.
By system failure i mean didn't boot/post, had to reset CMOS from jumper.
Thanks! my email is [email protected]


go to "User CP" at the top of the page, and look for "edit system" on the left. put your rig details in there, so we can easily see it in your posts


----------



## willhub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
as far as i understand it, windows never likes not being right at the front of a drive. even if you put it on a seperate partition, whichever install is located on the later drive sectors will perform relatively poorly.


I've decided to stick with Vista, aint much slower than XP, fine for me, and it's on the C Drive, now I'm thinking of moving my pagefile from my 320gb hdd to a 6gb partition on my 160gb IDE drive, hoping to speed stuff up.


----------



## scylian

Hey guys I'm new to the overclocking scene and since I just bought a P5N-E SLI, I thought I'd like to make my start here.

I really only know the basic concepts of overclocking. When I meet a wall it takes me forever to go around it, and even then I still don't know what the problem was.

Right now my problem is that oftentimes when I start the computer, it freezes on the POST screen and I am unable to access the BIOS. Sometimes it will start up and I will be able to access the BIOS but after testing some more it will eventually come back to it. Any idea what could be causing this?


----------



## Sylon

It's caused by an bad OC. There are many factors that are in play, but I'm guessing since you're new at this that you need to raise voltage to something. Also, when you don't post (that BIOS screen)...shut down your pc, turn off the power to the PSU, then hold the on button of the PC for 10 sec, then flip the power switch back on. That has always worked for me as far as clearing BIOS goes, if not then read the mobo manual, it should tell you how to set the jumpers to clear BIOS.


----------



## scylian

I have been reseting the jumpers to clear the BIOS whenever things go bad, I was just wondering if there was a way around doing that because it took so much time.

As for my voltages, vcore is at 1.4v, while memory and NB are both at their maximum amounts. FSB was set at 1333 and it's linked to memory. Should I increase the vcore voltage?


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scylian* 
I have been reseting the jumpers to clear the BIOS whenever things go bad, I was just wondering if there was a way around doing that because it took so much time.

As for my voltages, vcore is at 1.4v, while memory and NB are both at their maximum amounts. FSB was set at 1333 and it's linked to memory. Should I increase the vcore voltage?

...dude. Your vcore voltage may be alright, but your northbridge and memory are waaaaayyy too much. Im surprised you havent fried your ram yet


----------



## scylian

I thought the Memory voltage was a little much but the NB didn't seem too bad. Maximum for Memory is 2.517v and for NB it's 1.748v. It probably hasn't fried because I wouldn't have my computer on for more than 5 minutes since it would never start and I'd have to reset the BIOS again.


----------



## Asce

Unlink your RAM. Set it at the default speeds and try the 1333 fsb on your CPU.
Can you fill in your system specs as well so it will be easier to help you.


----------



## scylian

Thanks I'll try that. I also added my system info.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Think about replacing that power supply too. Mine was a 420W Raidmax and it gave the ghost after about a week of running my current setup.


----------



## Ray1441AH

Have a ASUS P5N-E-SLI and 2 Gig "Buffalo" brand D2U800C RAM installed. Experiencing many random freezes. Can the RAM be the problem. I noticed that this RAM is not on the QVL for this motherboard. What should I do to fix this problem?
Ray1441AH


----------



## scylian

I've overclocked my CPU to roughly 3.4Ghz now and I'd like to know what stress tester I should use to figure out if it's stable.


----------



## Asce

Download Orthos and run it for roughly 12 hours to make sure its stable.


----------



## jesusiscool

how can i update my bios to 0703? i am currently at 0608


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys, I have a thread here concerning the P5N-E SLI. Maybe you could have a peek and see if you can help me out.


----------



## jimmyj

sorry if this is a double post,,,,site froze on me first go around....

I am having issues with overclocing my P5N-e mobo and Q6600 B3 Stepping and hoping you guys can help me out? Nothing I've tried will get me even 10 Mhz past the 3.0 GhZ mark (things are sketchy all the way up to 3.0 Ghz as well). My comp won't even post, just sits at the first mobo screen. The funny thing is, I overclocked the system to 3.0 Ghz on stock voltage the very first time with no problems at 1:1 with the RAM. I've tried all equations from 3.0 to 3.6 with the 9 multiplier.

I've tried all voltage on cpu right up to 1.5V vcore with no success and have even upped the NB Voltage to 1.5v. And even tried with the offset to +100 - No dice. I've tried a couple 8X cpu multipliers - no go. Would it make any difference whatsoever if I started using some 6X and 7X cpu multipliers? I'm using a Zalman 9700 and that's keeping things pretty cool.

Also, I've tried a number of Asus Bios for this board. My best luck has been on the original that came with the install discs (0307 I believe). I read somewhere that 0401 has been the best bios yet but it was worse than most for me lol

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I'm new at this overclocking stuff so please excuse the language and any details I've missed!!

System:
Asus P5N-e SLI Mobo Revision 101g/A2
Bios from December 06 - 0307 (no luck with new bios)
Intel Quad Core Q6600 B3 Stepping @ 3.0GHz (333X9X1333 FSB)
Zalman 9700 Cooler
EVGA 640 mb 8800 GTS Superclocked 
2 GB Corsair XMS DDR2-800 (4-4-4-12 @ 1T)
3 Sata/2 IDE Drives
750w psu
Vista X86


----------



## Asce

You probably hit the FSB wall and Quads dont OC that well on the Nvidia boards unless you have the Evga 680i A1 board.


----------



## jimmyj

I've heard of this FSB wall. What exactly is it.....how close can I get to it.....does using different mulitpliers help get any higher than 3.0???!!!


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ray1441AH* 
Have a ASUS P5N-E-SLI and 2 Gig "Buffalo" brand D2U800C RAM installed. Experiencing many random freezes. Can the RAM be the problem. I noticed that this RAM is not on the QVL for this motherboard. What should I do to fix this problem?
Ray1441AH

Memtest86


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jesusiscool* 
how can i update my bios to 0703? i am currently at 0608

The EZFlash program you can access from the BIOS would probably be the easiest.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimmyj* 
sorry if this is a double post,,,,site froze on me first go around....

I am having issues with overclocing my P5N-e mobo and Q6600 B3 Stepping and hoping you guys can help me out? Nothing I've tried will get me even 10 Mhz past the 3.0 GhZ mark (things are sketchy all the way up to 3.0 Ghz as well). My comp won't even post, just sits at the first mobo screen. The funny thing is, I overclocked the system to 3.0 Ghz on stock voltage the very first time with no problems at 1:1 with the RAM. I've tried all equations from 3.0 to 3.6 with the 9 multiplier.

I've tried all voltage on cpu right up to 1.5V vcore with no success and have even upped the NB Voltage to 1.5v. And even tried with the offset to +100 - No dice. I've tried a couple 8X cpu multipliers - no go. Would it make any difference whatsoever if I started using some 6X and 7X cpu multipliers? I'm using a Zalman 9700 and that's keeping things pretty cool.

Also, I've tried a number of Asus Bios for this board. My best luck has been on the original that came with the install discs (0307 I believe). I read somewhere that 0401 has been the best bios yet but it was worse than most for me lol

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I'm new at this overclocking stuff so please excuse the language and any details I've missed!!

System:
Asus P5N-e SLI Mobo Revision 101g/A2
Bios from December 06 - 0307 (no luck with new bios)
Intel Quad Core Q6600 B3 Stepping @ 3.0GHz (333X9X1333 FSB)
Zalman 9700 Cooler
EVGA 640 mb 8800 GTS Superclocked
2 GB Corsair XMS DDR2-800 (4-4-4-12 @ 1T)
3 Sata/2 IDE Drives
750w psu
Vista X86


0608 is probably the best BIOS out there for overclocking, but YMMV.

Did you change the FSB/memory settings to "Unlinked"? If not, you are probably overclocking your RAM along with the processor.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimmyj* 
sorry if this is a double post,,,,site froze on me first go around....

I am having issues with overclocing my P5N-e mobo and Q6600 B3 Stepping and hoping you guys can help me out? Nothing I've tried will get me even 10 Mhz past the 3.0 GhZ mark (things are sketchy all the way up to 3.0 Ghz as well). My comp won't even post, just sits at the first mobo screen. The funny thing is, I overclocked the system to 3.0 Ghz on stock voltage the very first time with no problems at 1:1 with the RAM. I've tried all equations from 3.0 to 3.6 with the 9 multiplier.

I've tried all voltage on cpu right up to 1.5V vcore with no success and have even upped the NB Voltage to 1.5v. And even tried with the offset to +100 - No dice. I've tried a couple 8X cpu multipliers - no go. Would it make any difference whatsoever if I started using some 6X and 7X cpu multipliers? I'm using a Zalman 9700 and that's keeping things pretty cool.

Also, I've tried a number of Asus Bios for this board. My best luck has been on the original that came with the install discs (0307 I believe). I read somewhere that 0401 has been the best bios yet but it was worse than most for me lol

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I'm new at this overclocking stuff so please excuse the language and any details I've missed!!

System:
Asus P5N-e SLI Mobo Revision 101g/A2
Bios from December 06 - 0307 (no luck with new bios)
Intel Quad Core Q6600 B3 Stepping @ 3.0GHz (333X9X1333 FSB)
Zalman 9700 Cooler
EVGA 640 mb 8800 GTS Superclocked
2 GB Corsair XMS DDR2-800 (4-4-4-12 @ 1T)
3 Sata/2 IDE Drives
750w psu
Vista X86

go to "user cp" at the top of the page and then hit "edit system" on the left hand side. then fill in your system specs there









but yeah...might've hit the FSB wall for your chip on this board. probably worth trying a lower LDT multi, and increasing NB voltage to max. you're not *that* far from where I had to max my NB volts to get further on my e6400.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

I doubt it's FSB wall. Of the 4 boards I've gotten my hands on, the lowest wall I've had was 1600 FSB. He's still at 1333. My suspicion is that he's either OCing his memory in sync with the FSB or the poor little voltage regulators just can't keep the CPU fed with juice. Vdroop is terrible on this board with dual cores and probably much worse with quads.


----------



## TriBeCa

could be the voltage regulators. i beleive pook had some success with his first board when he reduced the voltage to his RAM to minimum spec. he said it allowed the voltage regulators to juice the cpu better, and he was able to hit a higher fsb with it.


----------



## jimmyj

Thanks for the input thus far guys. I'll give it a whirl (0608 bios, lower ram volts, and change the multiplier) when I get home and report back.

I am NOT running ram in sync, although it is 1:1 right now with settings.

Also, re: the vdroop....should I be poking around for a pencil mod? Any way to fix this voltage reg thing?

Now for the bomb drop....this mobo is recent as of last week.......should I be looking for a different mobo in same price category as the P5n-e? EVGA 680i perhaps???? be honest!!

J


----------



## Asce

Dont forget he has a Quad, so it can still be hitting the fsb wall. Thanks for reminding me, im supposed to get some pics of the board and send it to Pook as im trying the vdroop mod out. Your not going to get a 680i board for the same price as a 650i.


----------



## jimmyj

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=2014&Nav=|c:1533|&Sort=3&Re cs=10

What is the EVGA TR Version? Old 680 chipset with quad problems still? Quad core hell, sell? lol


----------



## Asce

If you want to OC on a 680i board then you will need to get the EVGA 680i A1


----------



## TriBeCa

but really...unless you're married to SLI you should probably get some sort of p5k. afaik they're still considered the best chipset for OCing quads.


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimmyj* 
Thanks for the input thus far guys. I'll give it a whirl (0608 bios, lower ram volts, and change the multiplier) when I get home and report back.

I am NOT running ram in sync, although it is 1:1 right now with settings.

Also, re: the vdroop....should I be poking around for a pencil mod? Any way to fix this voltage reg thing?

Now for the bomb drop....this mobo is recent as of last week.......should I be looking for a different mobo in same price category as the P5n-e? EVGA 680i perhaps???? be honest!!

J

If you're running 1:1 FSB:RAM divider @ 1333 FSB, your memory is also running at 1333. I don't think even the top OCers have their memory clocked that high. Set your memory to unlinked mode and manually set it to 800.


----------



## brandon6199

I'm on 0608 BIOS right now, would you guys recommend updating my BIOS to 0703 in hopes of getting better overclocks?


----------



## brad8320

Hey fellow P5N E -SLI users.
Having an issue with my board today. I got a new E6600 and took out the old one and then replaced it and also added a new Thermalright Extreme 120. Everything worked fine before I shut down to start the new install. Now when I boot up the PC everything seems to look fine such as:
Green LED on board lit up
All fans attached to board power up along w/ any cards attached.
But once I power up nothing happens it will not even hit the post screen or anything my monitor is just in the standby mode and it does not say check connection either. I have tried quite a few things such as removing CMOS battery, changing jumpers to clear also (thinking not long enough out), and replaced w/ the E6600 that was working fine too. I use 0401 rev. and have not done any firmware updates or anything. This is driving me nuts any suggestions would be much appreciated Also the proper procedure for cleaing the CMOS would be great as it seems there is a lot of dif. ways.


----------



## brandon6199

wait, does your old working E6600 POST or not? And why did you switch it out in the first place?


----------



## brad8320

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
wait, does your old working E6600 POST or not? And why did you switch it out in the first place?

ya the old one worked, I got another one from a friend and was just going to put it through its paces. Once I encountered problems I put the old one back in and still nothing.

Also anybody know what is up with the Thermalright Extreme 120 and how it slides around under the bracket? Thought that was a little weird.


----------



## brandon6199

Make sure all of your connections are plugged in, especially the 4pin 12V connector, that had my friend going nuts for hours, then he figured out that wasn't plugged in







Also, do you have a case speaker installed? What beep codes is it giving you?


----------



## brad8320

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Make sure all of your connections are plugged in, especially the 4pin 12V connector, that had my friend going nuts for hours, then he figured out that wasn't plugged in







Also, do you have a case speaker installed? What beep codes is it giving you?


No case speaker, how would I about setting that up?

Also the 4pin CPUI power is connected it snapped in when I put it in.


----------



## brandon6199

A case speaker comes with your case usually, or sometimes it comes with your motherboard, but for me my case came with one, and I installed it. You install the case speaker on the Q-Connector that hooks up your Power SW, Reset SW, and HD LED.


----------



## mjlaris

I am somewhat of a power user but have never really gotten into overclocking. I have an Asus P5N-E SLI motherboard and just purchased Kingston HyperX memory (4 one gig DIMMs, part number KHX6400D2K2/2G) hoping to get a little faster performance. While the memory that I purchased is 800 MHz memory, I have not been able to set the BIOS to get it to operate above 667 MHz. I would like to be able to operate both this memory and the CPU (a 2.93 gig Core 2 Extreme (quad core)) at as high a rate as possible while still maintaining stability. I would be grateful for any advice anyone could give me. Thanks,

Mark


----------



## jimmyj

Thought I'd chime in again and let you know what I've got guys. BTW, I am running RAM at 667. Since it's dual rate, the speed is actually 333 Mhz explaining the core quads quad pump to 1333 FSB. That's how I understand it anyway and that's why cpu-z is telling me it's a 1:1 ration I suppose.

So I searched deep inside the soul last night and decided 3.0 Ghz was as good as it'll get for now. Tried the new bios, multipliers, every range of volts you could think of for the cpu, ram and NB. Nothing at all. Can't even get 10 Mhz orver the 1333 fsb. must be a wall. I decided that even if I could get to 3.6 on air, it's not worth any more of my time or money if I bought a new board. I did enjoy the fresh ideas I got on this board however, so If you've got some input please post em and maybe I got some more tinkering in me yet!

JJ


----------



## ekabu

Dears Friends , For whom have E6750 and P5N-E SLI . I am pretty sure that in normal situation this mainboard has MAX FSB at 470 MHZ . I can try max 3.6 GHZ at this Mainboard and E6750 CPU. ANYONE who use this CPU and MAINBOARD can max the FSB more that the 470 number ???









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=239843

I can max at FSB 470 but more stable at 468

MY SPEC..
CPU = E6750 Wks 21 2.66 OC 3.74 --> V.Core 1.53
RAM = G.SKILL 6400 HK 1x2 GB CL 4-4-3-5 Ratio 1:1 --> V.ram 2.25
MB = ASUS P5N-E SLI --> NB Voltage set to MAX (~1.7 V)
VGA = XFX 8800 GTS 320 OC 621/1026 --> Idle Temp 51 , Load Temp 62
PSU = ZALMAN ZM600-HP 600 Watt
CPU COOLER = ANDY SAMURAI

AT this SETTING ... I run ORTHOS pass more than 30 mins so I stop run it . Run 3DMARK06 = 11360


----------



## Christiaan

Many have gotten close to 500FSB (some over), but 470 seems to be the general area these boards max out at.

I can't talk from first hand experience, as my CPU is limiting me. 175FSB for the win! lol


----------



## willhub

I'm thinking of purchasing 1GB 2x 512mb) of the same ram I have now, will this mobo be fine with 2x 1gig and 2x512meg? I wont run into any problems will I?

Currently running at 850Mhz 4-4-4-12 1:1 ratio with my 2gig.


----------



## U-Dubominator

Ok so i have a quick question.

ive been trying to oc my e6600 to 3.2ghz but im still sitting at 3.06 (8 x 382.5; 1.408vcore) even trying to get to 3.08 takes 2 clicks up in volts 1.424 and doesnt remain stable very long.

would changing the multi back up to 9 make it more possible/run w/ less volts?
and all other volts are on auto aka vdimm and vNB ... should i lock those into real values?


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

I thought dropping the multi would make my e4300 less volt hungry, but no go for me. Let me know if it works for you though.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AzN1337c0d3r* 
If you're running 1:1 FSB:RAM divider @ 1333 FSB, your memory is also running at 1333. I don't think even the top OCers have their memory clocked that high. Set your memory to unlinked mode and manually set it to 800.

Wrong here. 1:1 divider with 1333 FSB is 666MHz on the RAM, which I believe is underclocked for his RAM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brad8320* 
Hey fellow P5N E -SLI users.
Having an issue with my board today. I got a new E6600 and took out the old one and then replaced it and also added a new Thermalright Extreme 120. Everything worked fine before I shut down to start the new install. Now when I boot up the PC everything seems to look fine such as:
Green LED on board lit up
All fans attached to board power up along w/ any cards attached.
But once I power up nothing happens it will not even hit the post screen or anything my monitor is just in the standby mode and it does not say check connection either. I have tried quite a few things such as removing CMOS battery, changing jumpers to clear also (thinking not long enough out), and replaced w/ the E6600 that was working fine too. I use 0401 rev. and have not done any firmware updates or anything. This is driving me nuts any suggestions would be much appreciated Also the proper procedure for cleaing the CMOS would be great as it seems there is a lot of dif. ways.

To clear the CMOS, remove the battery and move the jumper as described in the motherboard manual (it's near the Q-connector, take it off with needlenose pliers and move it one pin to the right). Let it stay there for at least 30 seconds (some people report having had success leaving it for a few hours where 30 seconds didn't cut it...though it should...the point here is to leave it long enough for the boards capacitors to lose their charge so the BIOS chip can reset to defaults).

First off, you need a speaker connected. Virtually every case comes with one. If you have no speaker it's gonna be hard to tell whether the board is dead.

Once you've got that plugged in:

Remove everything from the board except the PSU, CPU, GPU, fans, and Q-connector stuff (no USB devices, no keyboard/mouse, no PCI cards but the GPU). Take out the RAM too. If you turn on the board and you get warning beeps, the good news is that your board is working. If you don't get warning beeps, the board either dead or shorting out. In this case you should take the board out of the case and place it on the cardboard box or a wooden table. You'll have to keep the q-connectors and PSU plugged in (you may have to remove the PSU from the case as well). If you still get no beeps, the board is dead and all you can do is RMA it.

Let us know how this turns out









Quote:


Originally Posted by *brad8320* 
ya the old one worked, I got another one from a friend and was just going to put it through its paces. Once I encountered problems I put the old one back in and still nothing.

Also anybody know what is up with the Thermalright Extreme 120 and how it slides around under the bracket? Thought that was a little weird.

I believe it was designed that way to improve TIM application with the line method. The best way to install this sink (I have it myself I just haven't updated my system because my board is currently on its second RMA) is to put as thin a line of TIM as possible on the CPU IHS in the same direction as the cores, and then place the HSF straight down on the IHS and then tighten the screws while using your other hand to keep the HSF as flat on the IHS as possible. Once the screws are tightened, you rotate the HSF about 10 degrees in either direction from center, and then return it to center. After that, as long as you don't apply physical pressure to the HSF it shouldn't move around at all.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mjlaris* 
I am somewhat of a power user but have never really gotten into overclocking. I have an Asus P5N-E SLI motherboard and just purchased Kingston HyperX memory (4 one gig DIMMs, part number KHX6400D2K2/2G) hoping to get a little faster performance. While the memory that I purchased is 800 MHz memory, I have not been able to set the BIOS to get it to operate above 667 MHz. I would like to be able to operate both this memory and the CPU (a 2.93 gig Core 2 Extreme (quad core)) at as high a rate as possible while still maintaining stability. I would be grateful for any advice anyone could give me. Thanks,

Mark

Make sure your timings and vdimm are manually set to spec. This board is lousy at detecting the correct timings and tends to set them really loose, which can actually cause problems.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willhub* 
I'm thinking of purchasing 1GB 2x 512mb) of the same ram I have now, will this mobo be fine with 2x 1gig and 2x512meg? I wont run into any problems will I?

Currently running at 850Mhz 4-4-4-12 1:1 ratio with my 2gig.

Are both chips on the QVL, or have they at least been tested as ok with this board by crucial? If so, as long as they have the same stock voltage and and timings, you *shouldn't* have any trouble (though that doesn't mean you won't). Of course, you could always just return the new chips if you do run into a problem....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *U-Dubominator* 
Ok so i have a quick question.

ive been trying to oc my e6600 to 3.2ghz but im still sitting at 3.06 (8 x 382.5; 1.408vcore) even trying to get to 3.08 takes 2 clicks up in volts 1.424 and doesnt remain stable very long.

would changing the multi back up to 9 make it more possible/run w/ less volts?
and all other volts are on auto aka vdimm and vNB ... should i lock those into real values?

Increasing the multi definately won't allow you to run with less vcore. But yes, you should definately set vdimm and vNB manually. Actually, at around the FSB you're at I had to set vNB to 1.7V...so that might be your problem right there.


----------



## brandon6199

Anything past 450 MHz fsb on my P5N-E with my E6550 and my system does not like it...

i really am thinking about updating my bios to the newest one in hope of getting better overclocks. 3.15 GHz on stock vcore is just not cutting it for me.


----------



## U-Dubominator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Increasing the multi definately won't allow you to run with less vcore. But yes, you should definately set vdimm and vNB manually. Actually, at around the FSB you're at I had to set vNB to 1.7V...so that might be your problem right there.



Hmm ok, so i guess i will just keep it 8 x 382.5+ instead of swapping to 9 x 340+ 
also, i never added a SB heatsink nor a fan on top of the NB heatsink, but my case does have good cooling/airflow. if the NB volts are at 1.7 (max on this board) wont that be kinda dangerous?

ill also set vDimm on the 2.0 section of the 1.8-2.0 range so maybe i can tighten some timings after im done ocing...


----------



## sgtdisturbed47

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Anything past 450 MHz fsb on my P5N-E with my E6550 and my system does not like it...

i really am thinking about updating my bios to the newest one in hope of getting better overclocks. 3.15 GHz on stock vcore is just not cutting it for me.


Well there is supposedly a FSB hole somewhere between 400 and 450, I think it's 410.

One thing to do when overclocking with this mobo is up the NB voltage to 1.5x (I think it's 1.57v) under the Voltage settings in Jumper-free Config. This allowed me to up my FSB from 451 to 465 when it used to be that anywhere above 451 would be unstable. Make sure your system is well cooled first (like an 80 or 120mm fan blowing onto the NB) with plenty of exhaust as well. I am using an Antec P180 to do this, so I have a 120mm intake on the front which blows across the NB and video card, a 120mm intake on the top above my AC Freezer 7 Pro (which is aimed to blow across the NM and onto the video card) and a 120mm exhaust on the back located next to the AC Freezer 7 Pro. I also have the 80mm fan duct installed (which comes with the P180 but is an optional feature) which takes in air from the rear of the case and blows it onto the NB and the video card.

This is a lot of air in my case, so I have had no trouble with excess heat buildup due to the ridiculous voltages I have going (my vcore is set at 1.5125v, my RAM is at 2.1v, and my NB is at 1.5x). This and my room is air conditioned to 60f with an LG 8000-BTU air conditioner blowing onto the front of the case.

Either way, you're going to need good cooling if you don't already, and if you don't then it will be unstable. It's worth a shot anyway.


----------



## U-Dubominator

would using the 9 multi versus 8 (hence lower FSB to achieve same clock) allow the vNB to remain lower?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *U-Dubominator*


Hmm ok, so i guess i will just keep it 8 x 382.5+ instead of swapping to 9 x 340+ 
also, i never added a SB heatsink nor a fan on top of the NB heatsink, but my case does have good cooling/airflow. if the NB volts are at 1.7 (max on this board) wont that be kinda dangerous?

ill also set vDimm on the 2.0 section of the 1.8-2.0 range so maybe i can tighten some timings after im done ocing...


I ran it for 4 months without problems, until I killed my board with a bad BIOS flash (i.e. totally unrelated to my settings, as I was at stock when I flashed).

All I did to the NB was reseat the HS with AS5. I have 120mm intake and exhaust fans in my case, and I had a CPU vent that fit snugly over the golden orb, so it would act as an intake. The setup of the orb also means it was likely pushing some air over the NB HS. Also, I modded an 80mm intake fan into the side of my case, which was positioned roughly between the NB and DIMM slots.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *U-Dubominator*


would using the 9 multi versus 8 (hence lower FSB to achieve same clock) allow the vNB to remain lower?


probably...


----------



## jesusiscool

what the difference between haveing a 9 multiplier and a 8, i know it changes the clock speeds, but still... what?


----------



## brownbox

Sorry to just barge in guys, but I have a quick question.
Is it possible to pull off the NB heatsink without pulling out the whole mobo? I ask this because I am getting a new tube of AS5, and thought I would stick some on the Nb instead of using the crappy stock stuff. Also, how do you work those stupid clips? I cant work them out!


----------



## Asce

You're going to need to take the motherboard out and use a pair of long nose pliers to undo the clips.


----------



## brownbox

my Nb temp stays about 2'c lower than my CPU temp, and my CPU temp has never gone above 41'c. I have not however, overclocked my CPU yet. Would you recommend I replace the thermal compound, or is it not worth the hassel?


----------



## Asce

It would be a good idea to change the thermal paste on the NB, as AS5 is much better than the stock paste.

Also if any one needs to know where to do the vdroop pencil mod look at the link in my sig. Thanks goes to Pook for helping me out.


----------



## brownbox

cool thanks for that. Looks like ive got a job for the weekend, along with installing my arriving PSU


----------



## Asce

Have a lot of fun doing that, i know i did to install the HR-05 Sli. And i just noticed you have the same RAM as me but only running at a different speed. I just love the orange heatspreaders on them.


----------



## mog

I raise maximum NB voltage and CPU x 6 but can't break 430FSB.


----------



## brandon6199

brownbox, I just did what you did today. I took off the factory paste on the northbridge and replaced it with AS5. It dropped my nb temp by 3C, which is pretty good









One thing you should take note of, the stuff they put on there, is NOT paste. It's like glue. It doesnt like to come off very easily. I used tweezers to scratch off the psate on the heatsink, and I used alchohol to take it off the NB itself. I could not remove some of it because it was practically STUCK on the northbridge and i didnt want to risk scratching it, so I took off most it and then I just put AS5 on top.

geez, why cant ASUS use some REAL thermal paste?


----------



## Hajpoj

Because that $0.40 x 1 Million boards is one fat Exec's paycheck.


----------



## brandon6199

Those cheapasses


----------



## mog

I need max VRam(2.5V) and NB voltage (1.75V) to get 640Mhz of memory.
But with 640Mhz memory CPU's FSB can't go farther 410.








http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=240872


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Uhh feeding your memory 2.5V can't be good for it...


----------



## Gauvenator

Just got P5N-E SLI and Core 2 Duo e6320. This is my first overclock, so I need advice. I need to know how to configure the BIOS so that I can OC the proc without ocing the ram

Thanks in advance.


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

So im getting the p5n E board and im purchasing the 6750, im at least trying to overclock it stable at 3.2 and maybe 3.4 on stock...Ive already have ddr2 800 xms ram 2x1 gig.. My issue is, do i need to change the voltages at all?? i know my fsb will be running at 1333 which will downclock my ram and run it at 667.. but can i set it to 1600 and have the ram run at 800 giving me a 1:1 ratio without changing vcore or nb?? How do i lock the pciex and pci card so that doesnt go up as well?? Im new to this and i might be wrong with the pci ex raising when switching my fsb from 1333 to 1600... but any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Just got P5N-E SLI and Core 2 Duo e6320. This is my first overclock, so I need advice. I need to know how to configure the BIOS so that I can OC the proc without ocing the ram

Thanks in advance.


When you get into Bios, go across to the right one tab. I cant remember which one it is under but in there you can change the overclocking setting to manual. Before you change the FSB, change it to unlinked and you should be good to go.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


So im getting the p5n E board and im purchasing the 6750, im at least trying to overclock it stable at 3.2 and maybe 3.4 on stock...Ive already have ddr2 800 xms ram 2x1 gig.. My issue is, do i need to change the voltages at all?? i know my fsb will be running at 1333 which will downclock my ram and run it at 667.. but can i set it to 1600 and have the ram run at 800 giving me a 1:1 ratio without changing vcore or nb?? How do i lock the pciex and pci card so that doesnt go up as well?? Im new to this and i might be wrong with the pci ex raising when switching my fsb from 1333 to 1600... but any help would be appreciated. Thanks










You may need to change the vcore in order to get a stable OC, I would also set the NB voltage to 1.5 just to help it be more stable. Leave your RAM unlinked at 800mhz and it should be fine. Im new to OCing, but getting down and dirty with it helps alot.


----------



## LeeVing

just got my system up and running this weekend after getting a bad drive from newegg.

Just wondering where to start. I know I can't do much with this stock cooler, so I am going to try to get the Freezer 7 back in this weekend. One of the pins was bending and not going in. I'm just trying to get to 3.0 as easy and cool as possible.

thanks for any help.


----------



## ericeod

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LeeVing*


just got my system up and running this weekend after getting a bad drive from newegg.

Just wondering where to start. I know I can't do much with this stock cooler, so I am going to try to get the Freezer 7 back in this weekend. One of the pins was bending and not going in. I'm just trying to get to 3.0 as easy and cool as possible.

thanks for any help.


Here is a good cooler, if it will fit in your case. Its only $14.99.
COOLER MASTER GeminII .


----------



## LeeVing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericeod*


Here is a good cooler, if it will fit in your case. Its only $14.99.
COOLER MASTER GeminII .



i just got that email, too. Was thinking of getting it.


----------



## brownbox

"geez, why cant ASUS use some REAL thermal paste?"
Makes me wonder, would the Asus 8600GT have this same stupid thing on it too? Shall I pull it off and change it?

"I just love the orange heatspreaders on them."
Yeah, it looks pretty fancy. Much better than the usual green circuit board plastic look. Although mine are Silver.

Sorry, just a off topic post.


----------



## jesusiscool

random?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LeeVing*


i just got that email, too. Was thinking of getting it.


Look at a Tuniq Tower 120 or a Thermalright 120 Extreme as they would be a better choice.


----------



## LuigiVE

Hey guys help me here.. i just buyed a new system... 
i want to overclock my e4500 c2d... 
memory 2 gb ddr2 ocz latency 5-5-5-12 ops edition ..

tell me the importance of get 1:1 fsb:ram .. or anything about 
memory timings... for this overclock ..


----------



## Gauvenator

What increment should I increase my FSB with? I don't want to be to risky about it.

My fsb is in unlinked mode.


----------



## mog

Do we need add heatsink for mosfets to get more FSB?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mog*


Do we need add heatsink for mosfets to get more FSB?


I dont think it will but it should help to keep them cooler.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LuigiVE*


Hey guys help me here.. i just buyed a new system... 
i want to overclock my e4500 c2d... 
memory 2 gb ddr2 ocz latency 5-5-5-12 ops edition ..

tell me the importance of get 1:1 fsb:ram .. or anything about 
memory timings... for this overclock ..


Hi can you please fill your system spec under user cp. I would say read this thread first then ask any questions you have.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


What increment should I increase my FSB with? I don't want to be to risky about it.

My fsb is in unlinked mode.


On Qfsb i would say about 20


----------



## Coma

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


What increment should I increase my FSB with? I don't want to be to risky about it.

My fsb is in unlinked mode.


I don't think you could possibly fry anything with too high of a FSB.
Just set it to your goal is, set vCore to 1.125, and try to start it.
If it doesn't work, go back into BIOS and bump the vCore twice (1.175), and so on until it boots.

Now start doing stress testing and watch the temps.

Bluescreen/freeze = bump the vCore twice, hardware failure reported by Orthos or whatever you use = bump the vCore once... do this until it's stable, and you'll reach the optimal vCore for your chip with your goal FSB.

A question from me to you guys:
Will the P5N-E SLI support the upcoming 45nm CPUs? Are there any official announcements by ASUS on this?
Sorry if it's been asked before, but there's no way to search just this one thread without going through every single page =\\


----------



## LuigiVE

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 

Hi can you please fill your system spec under user cp. I would say read this thread first then ask any questions you have.


Hi there ... i fill up my System spec.. anyone helpme to overclock it ....


----------



## Sin316

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LuigiVE*


Hi there ... i fill up my System spec.. anyone helpme to overclock it ....


i guess step 1 would be to buy a "graphic" card


----------



## AzN1337c0d3r

Please read http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post1618005


----------



## Gauvenator

Asce,
My bios displays the final fsb, do you mean 20 there, or do you mean 20 before multiplying by 4?

*edit: nvm


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

So my setup as follows 
P5Ne sli board (newest bios)
Xms2 ddr2-800 2x1 gig
e6750 cpu
xfx 7600gt for now, will upgrade to a 8800 in about a month
apevia 680 wt

*FSB AND MEMORY CONFIG*

fsb qdr at 1600 / 4 =400 x 8= 3200 **(400fsbx2=the 800ddr2 ram right???)
mem at 800







1:1 ratio or no??

whats a good starting vcore and nbridge??







I know setting to auto will make it run, but it might run to hott.. So im asking you guys, the pros.. I know theres no set way use these numbers and it will run this way, but i just need a guide through. An estimated voltage and if i have issues bump it up twice like that guy said, but im not sure if it would be different due to my cpu being different then his. I also need links of progyz that are used to test the system after overclocking. Any help would be appreciated my msn is [email protected] Im on bf2 everynow and then, but my main focus is eu3 hopefully its good, but mostly crysis :-D and cod3 i like the fps, sooo plleeasse any help would be awesome, great site keep up the work


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx* 
So my setup as follows
P5Ne sli board (newest bios)
Xms2 ddr2-800 2x1 gig
e6750 cpu
xfx 7600gt for now, will upgrade to a 8800 in about a month
apevia 680 wt

*FSB AND MEMORY CONFIG*

fsb qdr at 1600 / 4 =400 x 8= 3200 **(400fsbx2=the 800ddr2 ram right???)
mem at 800







1:1 ratio or no??

whats a good starting vcore and nbridge??







I know setting to auto will make it run, but it might run to hott.. So im asking you guys, the pros.. I know theres no set way use these numbers and it will run this way, but i just need a guide through. An estimated voltage and if i have issues bump it up twice like that guy said, but im not sure if it would be different due to my cpu being different then his. I also need links of progyz that are used to test the system after overclocking. Any help would be appreciated my msn is [email protected] Im on bf2 everynow and then, but my main focus is eu3 hopefully its good, but mostly crysis :-D and cod3 i like the fps, sooo plleeasse any help would be awesome, great site keep up the work









Try vcore of 1.35 with +100mv and if it posts bump it down a notch. Download Coretemp to monitor your temps and get Orthos to stress test.


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

wouldnt the 100mv give me 1.45?? Whats the default nb temp, is 1.5 to high?? i know 1.7 is the max! what about northbridge temps?? I also read a lot about the boards and didnt realize that the southbridge has nothing to cool it, do i need a chipset cooler and if so what are good coolers?? Like i said im not doing a crazy overclock just a little bump up 2.66 to 3.2 is good enough for me lol.. thanks man i know im asking non-stop questions but this is going to be my 1st comp build.. I was thinking about the p5n32 plus, but the p5ne seems it handle things thrown at it and will last for a while, so any help like i said is appreciated! God bless









Ps what stress test should i use?? blend or stress cpu for 12 hours? how bout ram tests??


----------



## Asce

Yes it will give you 1.45 and it will also help with the vdroop a bit. Like i said if it posts at that setting and is stable bump it down a notch and test again. I would get a low profile HS for the SB


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

alright so keep ram where it is, qd4 at 16000 bump to 1.35 with 100mv, bump down if it posts and keep north bridge at 1.5, run orthos for 12 hours and if im somewhat stable keep it? Im such a noob to this ha.. but, double checking is always good, whats a good lowprofile chipset cooler that i can use? thanks for everything its really helping a lot. Do you happen to know the default voltage for vcore and nb?


----------



## hermit

hi all,

i know i'm late in the show, and i'm trying to find find what i need in this thread, but at 87 pages long, it's kinda hard.

so, i'm looking for an overclocking guide for my board. i went to the BIOS and tried to find where to change the FSB, but i can't find it. well i found something, but the number seemed wrong. (FSB (QDR), mhz = 1066)

and every time i tried something, the computer just won't post. i even tried the automatic overclock at 20%, and didn't post.

is it my vcore that i should change? if so, at what voltage, because now, it's on auto and have no idea what the default is?


----------



## LeeVing

Well I fixed my issue with the Freezer 7 pin and also had to cut off some of the fan casing to fit near the NB HS. Temps are now down to 34 idle - 48 load.

Any suggestions of where to start, I'm just looking to get to 3.0 - 3.2


----------



## Hemi

Any of you guys encountered G0 Quad troubles when Overclocking. I had the B3 and could max out at 3.150Ghz, couldn't run anything, wasn't stable, 3.0Ghz was stable, but a few programs wouldn't run (3dMark06 ran in each of these 2 instances), I've since bought a G0 as well and can't get to 3.0Ghz with it after resetting bios and starting from scratch....kinda confuzzled at this point.


----------



## LeeVing

i really haven't tried anything yet, only the auto overclock in the bios. 10% to 2.6 is stable, but 2.8 isn't. not sure how it all works, but want to see what i can get out of this.

i've tried to set ram to 1:1, but that never works. 333x9 didn't even post.

haven't changed the vcore yet, still at 1.28 according to cpu-z.


----------



## Kaufman

Hi! got my rig built around last june.. just found this thread.. im using my p5n-e with a E4300 and the highest oc i can get so far is only 3.4ghz. the only thing im touching anyways OCing is the fsb. unlinking it from the ram. all voltages are set to auto.

any suggestions where should i start from here to get my oc higher and stable, w/o frying anything?

thanks in advance..


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaufman*


Hi! got my rig built around last june.. just found this thread.. im using my p5n-e with a E4300 and the highest oc i can get so far is only 3.4ghz. the only thing im touching anyways OCing is the fsb. unlinking it from the ram. all voltages are set to auto.

any suggestions where should i start from here to get my oc higher and stable, w/o frying anything?

thanks in advance..










Yes take your voltages off auto


----------



## TriBeCa

a lot of you seem to be asking similar questions. here's the basic approach to take. it's been a while, so I don't remember where all the settings are, but they shouldn't be hard to find.

just a reminder, you have to do your windows install at stock settings, and i'd recommend some basic stress testing before OCing to get a read on stock load temps and make sure you don't have any issues unrelated to OCing before you get started.

set to manual overclock, and unlink memory and RAM. leave your RAM at stock settings while OCing your CPU. make sure you set the timings and vdimm to stock manually--don't trust the board to set these correctly, and leaving them on auto can actually cause stability problems. once you hit a stable OC on your CPU that you're happy with you can OC your RAM if you want.

manually set vNB to 1.5 and your vcore to 1.35v (or 1.25+100mv), and go to 1200 FSB (assuming 1066 is stock). remember that the BIOS setting is 4x the true FSB (and memory speed is 2x the true memory speed). increase the CPU FSB in 20-25 Hz steps (i.e. 5-6.25). each time you do this, boot into windows and run at least 10 minutes of orthos (you can do 1 min at lower FSBs). if everything works you can go on to the next FSB. if you can't get into windows or get some other instability, bump up the vcore one notch and try again. if after several vcore increases you're still not stable, go back down a bit and try vNB at 1.7. once you hit your goal, make sure you're orthos stable for 8-12 hours.

and remember to use speedfan or everest to monitor your temps. be nervous about anything over 60c on C2D procs.


----------



## brandon6199

dude 1.7v on nb on air and stock cooling is WAY too hot


----------



## TriBeCa

i reseated my NB with AS5 and with decent case airflow it was fine. 5 months of near 24/7 stability (an unrelated bad BIOS flash killed my board)


----------



## santox

Hi everyone!
first of all... sorry for my english








i'm going to buy an ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i and a c2d E4300
of course i wan't to OC it, but i'm new in this and i have too many questions... -.-

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product..._elite_edition
it will be ok to use 2x512 of this mem? and there is too may difference if i put 2x1024?
can i do a nice OC with 667mhz? great difference if i go for the 800mhz mems?

thx for the help, i'm trying to have a really nice pc but as CHEAP as it could be


----------



## brandon6199

2GB of DDR2-800 would be great for your build


----------



## TriBeCa

check if the OCZ memory configurator recommends that RAM for this board. if not, i'd go with something else. 2x1024 will be much better. 1 GB of RAM isn't really enough these days. 667 is probably fine if you're trying to save money.


----------



## santox

thx for the answers! 
what do u think....

2Ghz 667mhz OCz (the model in the other post)
or
2Ghz 667mhz Super Talent


----------



## newbee1

Hi i have ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i, Intel Q6600 2.4GHz Core 2 Quad, OCZ (OCZ2G8001GK) 1GB (2x512MB) DDR2-800 PC2-6400 CL 5-5-5-12, 400w PSU,

in the bios settings under cpu configuration it shows CPU speed as 600mhz and multiplier X9, im not sure if the bios is post wrong information or if i have to manually apply these settings

Can someone please help me apply correct setting in CPU configuration & memory configuration for stock level functionality so that CPU displays correct information Thank you


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *santox*


thx for the answers! 
what do u think....

2Ghz 667mhz OCz (the model in the other post)
or
2Ghz 667mhz Super Talent


again, check memory configurators. you're much safer buying something that's been tested to work in the board by the manufacturer. Super Talent has a good reputation (As does OCZ), so without being specifically familiar with either chip I can't really recommend beyond buying one that's been tested









Quote:



Originally Posted by *newbee1*


Hi i have ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i, Intel Q6600 2.4GHz Core 2 Quad, OCZ (OCZ2G8001GK) 1GB (2x512MB) DDR2-800 PC2-6400 CL 5-5-5-12, 400w PSU,

in the bios settings under cpu configuration it shows CPU speed as 600mhz and multiplier X9, im not sure if the bios is post wrong information or if i have to manually apply these settings

Can someone please help me apply correct setting in CPU configuration & memory configuration for stock level functionality so that CPU displays correct information Thank you


Go to "User CP" at the top of the page, and click "Edit System" on the left hand side. then feel in your details there, so we can see it on every post.

Download and use CPU-Z to determine what your processor is running at. I'm not sure exactly what you're looking at.... You definately haven't hit 600 FSB, but if that were the rated FSB that would mean you were only at 150 MHz, which seems crazy low. You sure that's not the memory speed? That would make more sense....


----------



## pheoxs

Hey, I've read most of this thread a long time ago, but don't feel like rereading all 87 pages lol, I'm looking for a nb / sb heatsinks that won't interfere with anything, any recommendations? I'm getting a BT for the cpu and a vf900 for my 8600gts.

Edit: NVM seen the list on the first page, lol it wasn't there last time I read through this.


----------



## ra2shadow

I knew enough about this board to want one, bought one today and decided to look in to what other were getting from this board.....i found this thread (what a lot of reading) and came across this post....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gtboi604* 
interesting, speaking of 805, my 820 wouldn't clock any higher than 3.5Ghz so I took my sisters 805 out and swapped it...
this thing is freakish.
it took me 5 mins to get to 4Ghz!!! This is from 2.66Ghz!
too bad its too hot and not very stable, tho i did post into windows...wouldnt pass orthos tho...o well...
now im just running it @ 3.6Ghz with a vcore of 1.3v. STABLE!
Ram is running @ 800mhz with timings of 4-4-4-12!
havent had much more time to tweak with it, but i could post a 4Ghz CPUZ, but it wouldn't be worth it until i get it stable...








o wellies...good luck with your 820 dpawl...
D~

Im looking for a stable 3.8 this gave me huge hope for whats in store....will post all results about a week after i get board,

Wish me luck, and it nice to be joining such a thread.


----------



## TriBeCa

good luck, let us know how you fair


----------



## pheoxs

I can't wait tell next weekend, gonna be doing a huge overhaul, new psu, cpu cooler, sb heatsink, new 8600gts cooler, get rid of this ide dvd/rw for a sata one. Should make quite a difference, or I'll be mad haha.

Question though, which would be better, to put my HR-05-sli chipset cooler on the NB or SB, currently NB is stock and SB is bare, would the stock NB fit on the SB, I don't really feel like buying another chipset cooler.


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


I can't wait tell next weekend, gonna be doing a huge overhaul, new psu, cpu cooler, sb heatsink, new 8600gts cooler, get rid of this ide dvd/rw for a sata one. Should make quite a difference, or I'll be mad haha.

Question though, which would be better, to put my HR-05-sli chipset cooler on the NB or SB, currently NB is stock and SB is bare, would the stock NB fit on the SB, I don't really feel like buying another chipset cooler.


Put your chipset cooler on the NB and just find an old NB chipset cooler if you can, if not, just use a ramsink from a VGA cooler, that should do the trick. The SB doesn't generate a whole lot of heat, just make sure you have adequate ventalation in your case! Good Luck!


----------



## cscheat

*hey guys !

i am now overclocking my E2160 (stock 1.8Ghz) to 3.2Ghz and using 2 x 1Gb Kingston HyperX PC6400 (800Mhz) ram !

to get a stable overclock of fsb:mem ratio, i Underclock my memory under stock speed !!!

i would like to ask
1. any problem if i underclock my memory? why ?
2. should i increase my memory voltage? how much ?

All helps are apprecieted !!! im so happy i can find this thread !!!!







*


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ra2shadow* 
I knew enough about this board to want one, bought one today and decided to look in to what other were getting from this board.....i found this thread (what a lot of reading) and came across this post....

Im looking for a stable 3.8 this gave me huge hope for whats in store....will post all results about a week after i get board,

Wish me luck, and it nice to be joining such a thread.

Hey man. Good luck with that overclock.

I also have a 805 and I only managed 3.5GHz @ 1.4875v (Voltage is at 1.3875v with the +100mv setting)
I'm limited now by heat with my Zalman CNPS 9500. It reaches 63 degrees celcius on Orthos on a hot day. Which is fine for me, because Orthos firstly makes the CPU hotter than anything else running 100% on the cores and I no longer fold on this PC, so it's not always hot and under 60 while gaming.

I am thinking about going with a Zalman CNPS 9700 to replace the 9500.
Let us know how your temps are.









It's my sig rig, so check there if you want to know any of my other hardware.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


*hey guys !

i am now overclocking my E2160 (stock 1.8Ghz) to 3.2Ghz and using 2 x 1Gb Kingston HyperX PC6400 (800Mhz) ram !

to get a stable overclock of fsb:mem ratio, i Underclock my memory under stock speed !!!

i would like to ask
1. any problem if i underclock my memory? why ?
2. should i increase my memory voltage? how much ?

All helps are apprecieted !!! im so happy i can find this thread !!!!







*


1.
Underclocking your memory, anything for that matter, underclocking does no hurt / cause any problems. Also, if you underclock your memory, you could probably tighten the timings which will give you a slight boost in performance.

2. You only need to increase your memory voltage if you are having instability errors, or if your trying to get really tight timings and / or higher than rated frequencies. (such as running 800mhz ram @ 1000mhz, sometimes you need to up the voltage to keep it stable.)

Side note: Yeah yeah someones gonna come say my G.skills didn't need any increase in voltage blah blah, just giving a example.


----------



## ra2shadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hey man. Good luck with that overclock.

I also have a 805 and I only managed 3.5GHz @ 1.4875v (Voltage is at 1.3875v with the +100mv setting)
I'm limited now by heat with my Zalman CNPS 9500. It reaches 63 degrees celcius on Orthos on a hot day. Which is fine for me, because Orthos firstly makes the CPU hotter than anything else running 100% on the cores and I no longer fold on this PC, so it's not always hot and under 60 while gaming.

I am thinking about going with a Zalman CNPS 9700 to replace the 9500.
Let us know how your temps are.









It's my sig rig, so check there if you want to know any of my other hardware.

















Cheers im finding my temps a little high on the board ive got at 3.5 (cant remember off hand what temps are, and just reinstalled up to xp pro so dont have software back in to tell) if i find im still at 3.5 top end i most likely look in to water cooling, would go c2d but im really attached to the old 805.
Will post all result in one post including and intersting finds made along the way.


----------



## ra2shadow

Quote:



Underclocking your memory, anything for that matter, underclocking does no hurt / cause any problems. Also, if you underclock your memory, you could probably tighten the timings which will give you a slight boost in performance.


Not joking with the "slight" .

@@@Sorry double [email protected]@@@

Quote:



hey all, i got corsair xms2 5300 ram, but im not too sure on the overclocking side of things for ram, could someone give me a little help please


Seen this post no one answered, mate if your still a reader here, read my link to timings, then read everythig here you can find for ram then read some more, never stop reading knowledge-power-yada yada yada.

Oh and increasing FSB to the processor Ocs your ram, less you processor is a 805 with multiplier locked and your ram is pc2 6400 then you can only use 700mhz anyway.......(


----------



## Ravin

Been a while guys. There has been quite a bit go on in the time I haven't posted. I think that I finally melted the D820 I've been running







I'll know better what happened when I fire it up in the spare parts skt775 rig, but that can wait. I got bigger fish to fry.

Today I went out and found a Q6600 G0. I have not had time to test any O/C on the board yet, but given a little time to tinker I'll have this thing running flat out in no time. I want to give the AS5 time to cure and the transistors time to "burn in" first.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


1.
Underclocking your memory, anything for that matter, underclocking does no hurt / cause any problems. Also, if you underclock your memory, you could probably tighten the timings which will give you a slight boost in performance.

2. You only need to increase your memory voltage if you are having instability errors, or if your trying to get really tight timings and / or higher than rated frequencies. (such as running 800mhz ram @ 1000mhz, sometimes you need to up the voltage to keep it stable.)


*hey, pheoxs !







thanks for the information ! im now running my E2160 at 355 X 9 = 3.2Ghz ! so to obtain a 1:1 ratio, i underclock my memory to 711Mhz and with 2.1V (kingston Hyper X PC6400) and memory timing is 5-5-5-15 2T...

so far running with some problems








1. When i click "Sleep", my window vista just Shut Down and Restart !!??
2. Programs will open up automatically once ! (Windows Mail)
3. Super Pi wont pass the 32mb test and eventually will stop responding

Help !*


----------



## TriBeCa

for #3, try tightening up your RAM timings. say, 4-4-4-12.

no idea about the other stuff.


----------



## jesusiscool

hey all, i have ddr2 667 ram C4 but the timings are 5-5-5-15 but to get 4-4-4-12 i need to underclock the ram to 532 but it will have the good latency, will this slow down my pc, or make it faster? also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of having a lower multiplier on my cpu?


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


hey all, i have ddr2 667 ram C4 but the timings are 5-5-5-15 but to get 4-4-4-12 i need to underclock the ram to 532 but it will have the good latency, will this slow down my pc, or make it faster? also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of having a lower multiplier on my cpu?


tighter timings are definately faster, but u lower the clock under 667 makes it runs average... any opinion out there ???


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


hey all, i have ddr2 667 ram C4 but the timings are 5-5-5-15 but to get 4-4-4-12 i need to underclock the ram to 532 but it will have the good latency, will this slow down my pc, or make it faster? also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of having a lower multiplier on my cpu?


Depends what your FSB is, don't go below 1:1, so if you fsb is 333, run your ram at 667 and the 5-5-5 timings.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


hey all, i have ddr2 667 ram C4 but the timings are 5-5-5-15 but to get 4-4-4-12 i need to underclock the ram to 532 but it will have the good latency, will this slow down my pc, or make it faster? also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of having a lower multiplier on my cpu?


only way to no for sure is to run benchmarks on both and compare them. use a benchmark as close as possible to what you actually want to do (e.g. 3Dmark for gaming, superpi for number crunching)


----------



## Ned

Hi, I haven't overclocked my system yet but it is crashed when I play games. I found this thread when I was trying to find an answer about my Asus MB. It looks like this is the place to find some answers ! 348 pages !

Anyway I bought a pc 2 weeks ago from www.cyberpowerpc.com and it has the Asus P5N-E SLI 650i. It has never crashed when I do internet surfing or office stuff but it crashes pretty much every game I play. I get a BSOD with various stop errors. The game I play (or try to play) is DDO. Here is a post I have over there about my problems.

http://forums.ddo.com/showthread.php?t=120634

Everyone keeps pointing to hardware problems but every diagnostic tool I try says everything is fine. All the details are in the linked post but basically it seems RAM related, the question is whether it is bad sticks, a bad MB or bad interaction with Vista.

Today I ran things with one stick at a time without crashing. I noticed that the stick were in the Black A2 and B2 locations when I got it from cyberpower. When I was trying one at a time it was in A2. I put it back together before I came to work with both ram sticks in and this time I used the yellow A1 and B1 locations. I found this thread when trying to find out if it matters if you use the black or yellow slots when you only have 2 sticks. It booted up fine but then I had to go to work so I have not tested it with games yet. I also put the some beta Nvidia drivers that were released today on so tonight I will give it some testing.

I have tested (including burn in) with SI Sandra and found nothing wrong. I have tested the ram with memtest86+ v1.7 and found nothing in about 20 passes.

I have the msinfo32 file with me here, when I get home I can post the cpuz info.

Here is the system as bought:

Code:



Code:


CAS: CoolerMaster Stacker 830 Tower 420W Case W/ Side-panel Window
CS_FAN: Default case fans
CPU: (Sckt775)Intel(R) Core(TM) 2 Duo E6750 CPU @ 2.66GHz 1333FSB 4MB L2 Cache 64-bit
CD: LiteOn LH-20A1H 20X Double Layer DVD+-RW Super Allwrite + Lightscribe Technology 
CD2: 16X DVD ROM 
CABLE: Round Cable Upgrade for Hard Drive, Optical Drive & Floppy Drive 
FLASHMEDIA: INTERNAL 12in1 Flash Media Reader/Writer FREEBIE_CU1: FREE! 
FAN: CoolerMaster Liquid CPU Cooling System (Superior Cooling Performance + Extreme Silent at 20dba)
HDD: Single Hard Drive (500GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM HDD)
HDD2: 500GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM Hard Drive
IEEE_CARD: NONE
KEYBOARD: PS2 MULTIMEDIA INTERNET CONTROL KEYBOARD
MOUSE: Logitech G7 Laser Cordless 2000dpi Mouse
MONITOR: ViewSonic VX2835WM 28" True 1080P with HDMI Wide Color TFT Active Matrix 1920x1200 LCD Display
MOTHERBOARD: (Quad-Core FSB1333) Asus P5N-E nForce 650i SLI Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
MEMORY: (Req.DDR2 MainBoard)2GB (2x1GB) PC6400 DDR2/800 Dual Channel Memory (Corsair XMS2 Xtreme Memory w/ Heat Spreader)
NETWORK: ONBOARD 10/100 NETWORK CARD
OS: Microsoft(R) Windows Vista(TM) Home Premium (32-bit Edition)
PRO_WIRING: Professional Wiring for All WIRINGs Inside The System Chasis with High Performance Thermal Compound on CPU
POWERSUPPLY: 600 Watts Power Supplies (CoolerMaster Unit 600 Watts eXtreme Power - SLI Supports)
SOUND: 3D WAVE ON-BOARD 5.1 SOUND CARD
VIDEO: NEW!!! NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB 16X PCI Express(EVGA Powered by NVIDIA)

Here is the msinfo32 info:

Code:



Code:


OS NameMicrosoftÂ® Windows Vistaâ„¢ Home Premium
Version6.0.6000 Build 6000
Other OS Description Not Available
OS ManufacturerMicrosoft Corporation
System NameNED-GAME-PC
System ManufacturerSystem manufacturer
System ModelSystem Product Name
System TypeX86-based PC
ProcessorIntel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU     E6750  @ 2.66GHz, 2666 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 2 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/DatePhoenix Technologies, LTD ASUS P5N-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0703, 8/9/2007
SMBIOS Version2.4
Windows DirectoryC:Windows
System DirectoryC:Windowssystem32
Boot DeviceDeviceHarddiskVolume2
LocaleUnited States
Hardware Abstraction LayerVersion = "6.0.6000.16407"
User NameNed-Game-PCNed
Time ZoneEastern Daylight Time
Total Physical Memory2,045.94 MB
Available Physical Memory1.04 GB
Total Virtual Memory4.21 GB
Available Virtual Memory3.03 GB
Page File Space2.29 GB
Page FileC:pagefile.sys

After I bought it I put in a SB Xtreme gamer card. This is my dream system and it is awesome when it is running but pretty nightmarish when you get the BSOD. Anyhelp is apprieciated to either find something I can tweak or fix to make it work or to track down some bad hardware if that is the case and replace it.


----------



## TriBeCa

first, go to 'user cp' at the top of the page, and hit 'edit system' on the left and enter you system specs there. that way we can see it in every post









try the yellow slots. this board is a bit funny with RAM. if you still have a problem...

i have two suspicions about the nature of the problem:
1) your video card is overheating. when a system tests normally and has no problems at all, but crashes during intensive 3d applications (i.e. games), this is often the problem. how much case cooling do you have going? install speedfan and check your motherboard temps as well. those 8800 cards have wicked cooling, so i'd be kinda surprised if this was the problem, but if you've only got like 1 case fan going it could just be that the ambient case temp is too high, in which case the cards stock cooling won't do s**t.

2) you need to manually set your RAM timings and voltage to spec. this board often defaults to really loose timings, which can cause stability problems. the timings should be printed on your RAM (something like 4-4-4-12). set it to that, and the vdimm to 2.1v (iirc that's default for those Corsairs, but you should double check).


----------



## Ned

Thanks for the fast reply, when I get home I will fill in all those system specs and any of the benchmarks I can run.

Good to hear that using the yellow might make a difference. I put them in there right before I left, I will test with gaming when I get home.

I do have liquid cooling from coolermaster in there. I will get the details when I go home and add the system specs. Other that that is it just the power supply fan. I have put speed fan and asus's monitoring program on, don't remember the exact temps right now but the only one that set off alarms was when using asus's program and it was the mb temp running 38 - low 40's celcius. It is about 37 or 38 right after boot up, even if it has been off for a long time. I seem to remember reading that the 8800 is so huge that it is too close to the mb sensor and the temp might not be accurate. I hope that is the case, I would like to turn down the liquid cooling, I have it on max and it sounds like an airplane.

Looked at my ram this morning and I think it was 5-5-5-12 ? I will check when I get home. I have never set the timings, do I do this in the BIOS or is there a utility for that?

Thanks again. Good to get a response other than "Hardward related", it would be very nice not to have to replace anything.


----------



## ra2shadow

Before you do anything find out as much as you can about it, have you read all posts in the thread? (if so very, very, well done)

I dont have this board yet (its coming, its coming) so im not going to go giving advice about it.

Read my sig link for ram timings....Oh and i couldnt have said anything better than this.................

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


first, go to 'user cp' at the top of the page, and hit 'edit system' on the left and enter you system specs there. that way we can see it in every post









try the yellow slots. this board is a bit funny with RAM. if you still have a problem...

i have two suspicions about the nature of the problem:
1) your video card is overheating. when a system tests normally and has no problems at all, but crashes during intensive 3d applications (i.e. games), this is often the problem. how much case cooling do you have going? install speedfan and check your motherboard temps as well. those 8800 cards have wicked cooling, so i'd be kinda surprised if this was the problem, but if you've only got like 1 case fan going it could just be that the ambient case temp is too high, in which case the cards stock cooling won't do s**t.

2) you need to manually set your RAM timings and voltage to spec. this board often defaults to really loose timings, which can cause stability problems. the timings should be printed on your RAM (something like 4-4-4-12). set it to that, and the vdimm to 2.1v (iirc that's default for those Corsairs, but you should double check).


----------



## Ned

ra2shadow, I haven't read all the posts, I read the first page and the last few pages.

I printed out the ram timing faq in you sig. I should be able to do it with that. I do not know about voltage though. I will search around for info before I mess with that.

When I get home I will take the ram out and write down all the numbers. I will run cpuz too but I better look at them to be sure.


----------



## Ned

I just remembered that when I had the ram out this morning I went to newegg (good thing I kept my old pc running) and found my ram and added it to my wishlist in case I needed to replace it.

Here it is:
http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820145590

CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory

5.5.5.12

From Corsair website:
Tested Settings for this Module: Speed: 800MHz Latency: 5-5-5-15-2T Voltage: 1.9

Another place on corsair website:
CM2X1024-6400 DDR2-800 (XM2S-6400) 1GB 5-5-5-15-2T 1.9
unless I really have the "Pro" version, I will have to check:

CM2X1024-6400PRO DDR2-800 (5-5-5-12) 1GB 5-5-5-12-2T 1.9

On a side note, does plugging in a usb drive help much? I have a 4 GB one, I haven't done it yet, figuring why introduce a new variable but maybe it will help.

I have been reading a bunch of posts over at corsairs forums, I will check out all my bios setting when I get home.


----------



## cscheat

Hey GUYS !!!

i wanna ask what is the temperature of MB when it is under load ??? Im using ASUS PROBE to monitor my motherboard temperature... it says MB = 55 degree C !!!

any one have ideas what is the normal temp range for this board ?


----------



## Gauvenator

That seems a little high. I'm running at about 42 under load in Asus Probe...but I'm only oc'd to 2.78GHz.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


That seems a little high. I'm running at about 42 under load in Asus Probe...but I'm only oc'd to 2.78GHz.


*wow ! only 42 degree C???







!!

i donno where the MB temperature that Asus Probe measure... Northbridge? or South ?

Anyone with around 55 degree C???







*


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


*wow ! only 42 degree C???







!!

i donno where the MB temperature that Asus Probe measure... Northbridge? or South ?

Anyone with around 55 degree C???







*


I believe I recall someone saying its the average of the NB and SB temps or something along those lines, mine idles at 42C, but thats on stock NB, nothing on SB, we'll see next week when I do all my upgrades.


----------



## Sandberg

My MB stays at 37C, with around a 40C load temp. I changed the NB heatsink though...

What really annoys me is how the CPU temp went up with my upgrade to Vista though


----------



## jesusiscool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
only way to no for sure is to run benchmarks on both and compare them. use a benchmark as close as possible to what you actually want to do (e.g. 3Dmark for gaming, superpi for number crunching)

oh dw i manually set the timings to 4-4-4-12 2t


----------



## Ned

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


first, go to 'user cp' at the top of the page, and hit 'edit system' on the left and enter you system specs there. that way we can see it in every post









try the yellow slots. this board is a bit funny with RAM. if you still have a problem...

i have two suspicions about the nature of the problem:
1) your video card is overheating. when a system tests normally and has no problems at all, but crashes during intensive 3d applications (i.e. games), this is often the problem. how much case cooling do you have going? install speedfan and check your motherboard temps as well. those 8800 cards have wicked cooling, so i'd be kinda surprised if this was the problem, but if you've only got like 1 case fan going it could just be that the ambient case temp is too high, in which case the cards stock cooling won't do s**t.

2) you need to manually set your RAM timings and voltage to spec. this board often defaults to really loose timings, which can cause stability problems. the timings should be printed on your RAM (something like 4-4-4-12). set it to that, and the vdimm to 2.1v (iirc that's default for those Corsairs, but you should double check).


I have my system spec up now. I still need to do some testing though. Last night I tried the yellow slots and along with new nvidia drivers and turning off UAC I played for 4 1/2 hours and did not have a crash so it looks like the problem is fixed. Now that it is stable I would like to try to tune it up by doing the timing. I ran out of time before I had to meet my guildies to play last night to try the timing. Also I am not sure what to time it, some info on the corsair site says 5-5-5-15 and mine are marked 5-5-5-12.

I will read more before I attempt anything but here is everything that is printed on my RAM chips, I have 2.

CM2X1024-6400
XMS6405v5.1
5-5-5-12
800 MHZ
1024MB
XMS2-6400
683875 (on #1) 683876 (on #2) all other numbers are the same on both
07310141-0

On other side:
Xtreme Performance
DDR2
Memory

The sticker is purple, I will probably create an account at the corsair forums and get an official answer from Ramguy but it anyone knows the timings for sure let me know.

One thing is my RAM is running at 400 mhx instead of 800 according to CPUZ.
I am not sure what is needed so I will post the whole CPOZ log:

Code:


Code:


-------------------------
  CPU-Z version 1.41
-------------------------

Processors Map
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Number of processors1
Number of threads2

Processor 0
    -- Core 0
        -- Thread 0
    -- Core 1
        -- Thread 0

Processors Information
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 1 (ID = 0)
Number of cores2
Number of threads2 (max 2)
NameIntel Core 2 Duo E6750
CodenameConroe
SpecificationIntel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU     E6750  @ 2.66GHz
PackageSocket 775 LGA (platform ID = 0h)
CPUID6.F.B
Extended CPUID6.F
Core SteppingG0
Technology65 nm
Core Speed2666.7 MHz (8.0 x 333.3 MHz)
Rated Bus speed1333.3 MHz
Stock frequency2666 MHz
Instructions setsMMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, EM64T
L1 Data cache2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L1 Instruction cache2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L2 cache4096 KBytes, 16-way set associative, 64-byte line size
FID/VID Controlyes
FID range6.0x - 8.0x
max VID1.238 V
FeaturesXD, VT

Thread dumps
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CPU Thread 0
APIC ID0
TopologyProcessor ID 0, Core ID 0, Thread ID 0
Type01008001h
Max CPUID level0000000Ah
Max CPUID ext. level80000008h

Functioneaxebxecxedx
0x000000000x0000000A0x756E65470x6C65746E0x49656E69
0x000000010x000006FB0x000208000x0000E3FD0xBFEBFBFF
0x000000020x05B0B1010x005657F00x000000000x2CB43049
0x000000030x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x000000040x040001210x01C0003F0x0000003F0x00000001
0x000000040x040001220x01C0003F0x0000003F0x00000001
0x000000040x040041430x03C0003F0x00000FFF0x00000001
0x000000050x000000400x000000400x000000030x00000220
0x000000060x000000010x000000020x000000010x00000000
0x000000070x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x000000080x000004000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x000000090x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x0000000A0x072802020x000000000x000000000x00000503
0x800000000x800000080x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x800000010x000000000x000000000x000000010x20100000
0x800000020x65746E490x2952286C0x726F43200x4D542865
0x800000030x442032290x43206F750x202055500x45202020
0x800000040x303537360x204020200x36362E320x007A4847
0x800000050x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x800000060x000000000x000000000x100080400x00000000
0x800000070x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x800000080x000030240x000000000x000000000x00000000

Cache descriptorLevel 1 D32 KB1 threads
Cache descriptorLevel 1 I32 KB1 threads
Cache descriptorLevel 2 U4 MB2 threads

MSR 0x0000001Bedx = 0x00000000eax = 0xFEE00900
MSR 0x000000E8edx = 0x0000002Feax = 0xAD789450
MSR 0x00000017edx = 0x00000000eax = 0x8800882A
MSR 0x000000CDedx = 0x00000000eax = 0x00000804
MSR 0x0000003Fedx = 0x00000000eax = 0x000000EA
MSR 0x000000CEedx = 0x001D082Aeax = 0x7F7F071A
MSR 0x000001A0edx = 0x00000040eax = 0x60970481
MSR 0x000000EEedx = 0xA8000000eax = 0xC37D5300
MSR 0x0000019Cedx = 0x00000000eax = 0x88360000
MSR 0x00000198edx = 0x082A082Aeax = 0x0600082A
MSR 0x00000199edx = 0x00000000eax = 0x0000082A

CPU Thread 1
APIC ID1
TopologyProcessor ID 0, Core ID 1, Thread ID 0
Type01008001h
Max CPUID level0000000Ah
Max CPUID ext. level80000008h

Functioneaxebxecxedx
0x000000000x0000000A0x756E65470x6C65746E0x49656E69
0x000000010x000006FB0x010208000x0000E3FD0xBFEBFBFF
0x000000020x05B0B1010x005657F00x000000000x2CB43049
0x000000030x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x000000040x040001210x01C0003F0x0000003F0x00000001
0x000000040x040001220x01C0003F0x0000003F0x00000001
0x000000040x040041430x03C0003F0x00000FFF0x00000001
0x000000050x000000400x000000400x000000030x00000220
0x000000060x000000010x000000020x000000010x00000000
0x000000070x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x000000080x000004000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x000000090x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x0000000A0x072802020x000000000x000000000x00000503
0x800000000x800000080x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x800000010x000000000x000000000x000000010x20100000
0x800000020x65746E490x2952286C0x726F43200x4D542865
0x800000030x442032290x43206F750x202055500x45202020
0x800000040x303537360x204020200x36362E320x007A4847
0x800000050x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x800000060x000000000x000000000x100080400x00000000
0x800000070x000000000x000000000x000000000x00000000
0x800000080x000030240x000000000x000000000x00000000

Cache descriptorLevel 1 D32 KB1 threads
Cache descriptorLevel 1 I32 KB1 threads
Cache descriptorLevel 2 U4 MB2 threads

MSR 0x0000001Bedx = 0x00000000eax = 0xFEE00800
MSR 0x000000E8edx = 0x0000001Deax = 0x832A4278
MSR 0x00000017edx = 0x00000000eax = 0x8800882A
MSR 0x000000CDedx = 0x00000000eax = 0x00000804
MSR 0x0000003Fedx = 0x00000000eax = 0x000000EA
MSR 0x000000CEedx = 0x001D082Aeax = 0x7F7F071A
MSR 0x000001A0edx = 0x00000040eax = 0x60970481
MSR 0x000000EEedx = 0xA8000000eax = 0xC37D5300
MSR 0x0000019Cedx = 0x00000000eax = 0x88380000
MSR 0x00000198edx = 0x082A082Aeax = 0x0600082A
MSR 0x00000199edx = 0x00000000eax = 0x0000082A

Chipset
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NorthbridgeNVIDIA 650i SLI SPP rev. A2
SouthbridgeNVIDIA 650i SLI MCP rev. A3
Graphic InterfacePCI-Express
PCI-E Link Widthx16
PCI-E Max Link Widthx16
Memory TypeDDR2
Memory Size2048 MBytes
Memory Frequency400.0 MHz (5:6)
CAS#5.0
RAS# to CAS#5
RAS# Precharge5
Cycle Time (tRAS)31
Bank Cycle Time (tRC)22
Command Rate2T

Memory SPD
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DIMM #1

General
Memory typeDDR2
Module formatRegular UDIMM
Manufacturer (ID)Corsair (7F7F9E0000000000)
Size1024 MBytes
Max bandwidthPC2-6400 (400 MHz)
Part numberCM2X1024-6400     
Manufacturing dateWeek 23/Year 06

Attributes
Number of banks2
Data width64 bits
CorrectionNone
Nominal Voltage1.80 Volts
EPPno
XMPno

Timings table
Frequency (MHz)270400
CAS#4.05.0
RAS# to CAS# delay45
RAS# Precharge45
TRAS1318
TRC1522

DIMM #2

General
Memory typeDDR2
Module formatRegular UDIMM
Manufacturer (ID)Corsair (7F7F9E0000000000)
Size1024 MBytes
Max bandwidthPC2-6400 (400 MHz)
Part numberCM2X1024-6400     
Manufacturing dateWeek 23/Year 06

Attributes
Number of banks2
Data width64 bits
CorrectionNone
Nominal Voltage1.80 Volts
EPPno
XMPno

Timings table
Frequency (MHz)270400
CAS#4.05.0
RAS# to CAS# delay45
RAS# Precharge45
TRAS1318
TRC1522

Dump Module #1
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   80 08 08 0E 0A 61 40 00 05 25 40 00 82 08 00 00 
10   0C 04 30 03 02 00 03 37 50 00 00 32 1E 32 2D 80 
20   18 25 05 13 3C 1E 1E 00 00 37 69 80 14 1E 00 56 
30   78 6F 3F 26 31 50 2E 65 30 3E 00 00 00 00 12 90 
40   7F 7F 9E 00 00 00 00 00 01 43 4D 32 58 31 30 32 
50   34 2D 36 34 30 30 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 06 1D 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1F FF FF FF FF 
70   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Dump Module #2
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   80 08 08 0E 0A 61 40 00 05 25 40 00 82 08 00 00 
10   0C 04 30 03 02 00 03 37 50 00 00 32 1E 32 2D 80 
20   18 25 05 13 3C 1E 1E 00 00 37 69 80 14 1E 00 56 
30   78 6F 3F 26 31 50 2E 65 30 3E 00 00 00 00 12 90 
40   7F 7F 9E 00 00 00 00 00 01 43 4D 32 58 31 30 32 
50   34 2D 36 34 30 30 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 06 1D 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 1F FF FF FF FF 
70   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Monitoring
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mainboard ModelP5N-E SLI (0x24D - 0x2CAF61C)

LPCIO
-----------------------------------------------------
VendorITE
ModelIT8718
Vendor ID0x90
Chip ID0x8718
Revision ID0x2
Config Mode I/O address0x2E

Dump config mode register space, LDN = 0x4
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   87 18 02 01 00 40 4F 00 00 80 00 00 1F 00 00 00 
30   01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   02 90 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 02 00 00 04 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

ITE IT87 hardware monitor

Voltage sensor 01.36 Volts [0x55] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage sensor 13.31 Volts [0xCF] (VIN1)
Voltage sensor 34.87 Volts [0xB5] (+5V)
Voltage sensor 411.71 Volts [0xB7] (+12V)
Voltage sensor 5-0.19 Volts [0x3] (-12V)
Voltage sensor 6-0.38 Volts [0x6] (-5V)
Voltage sensor 74.95 Volts [0xB8] (+5V VCCH)
Voltage sensor 83.12 Volts [0xC3] (VBAT)
Temperature sensor 042Â°C (107Â°F) [0x2A] (TMPIN0)
Temperature sensor 142Â°C (107Â°F) [0x2A] (TMPIN1)
Temperature sensor 225Â°C (76Â°F) [0x19] (TMPIN2)
Fan sensor 05037 RPM [0x86] (FANIN0)
Fan sensor 12304 RPM [0x125] (FANIN1)

Dump hardware monitor
LPC Register space, base address = 0x0290

      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   11 10 FF 07 00 00 00 00 00 80 40 09 07 87 26 FF 
10   FF FF FF 73 D0 80 7F 7F 00 01 FF FF FF FF FF FF 
20   55 CF 00 B5 B7 03 06 B8 C3 2A 2A 19 C6 82 82 82 
30   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
40   FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 0D 2D FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
50   FF 38 7F 7F 7F 50 00 00 90 00 05 12 60 00 00 00 
60   00 19 7F 2B D0 04 FF FF 00 19 7F 2B D0 04 FF FF 
70   7F 7F 7F 00 00 7F FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 02 
90   FF 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
B0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
C0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
D0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
E0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
F0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF

Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 031Â°C (87Â°F) [0x36] (core #0)
Temperature sensor 129Â°C (84Â°F) [0x38] (core #1)

Dump hardware monitor

PCI Device List
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Host Bridge
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03A3
Revision ID0xA2
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x06
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Capabilities
HyperTransport Capability
Offset40h
Revision0.16
Interface typeHost/Secondary
Device number0
Link 0 width (in/out)8 bits/8 bits
Link 0 frequency1000MHz
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 A3 03 06 00 B0 00 A2 00 00 06 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   08 00 01 20 22 00 00 00 10 26 3F 00 03 01 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   21 49 44 44 13 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 
70   07 05 22 00 00 00 00 00 81 01 85 01 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 78 00 00 B0 00 00 00 00 
90   1F 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00 00 00 00 
B0   CB 10 00 02 F0 FF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   11 31 00 00 30 01 00 10 0B 00 00 00 00 50 07 00 
D0   01 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF FF 70 07 10 00 00 00 
E0   08 00 01 A8 00 00 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 E4 FF FF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 1 (0x01)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03AC
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 AC 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 21 21 16 00 11 11 00 00 04 00 00 00 
60   21 08 12 06 DE 8F E1 1F 08 42 48 18 22 8F 00 20 
70   10 32 54 0A 10 00 00 00 20 00 00 00 1F 00 FD 00 
80   00 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 50 3F 90 7F 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 80 F9 FD 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 C7 02 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 2 (0x02)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03AA
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 AA 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 0B 28 00 80 00 00 02 00 0B 28 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 7E 10 27 FE 
60   C5 00 10 CE FF FF 00 00 31 00 06 00 FF FF 00 00 
70   31 00 0C 00 65 00 10 80 03 2C 1C 80 03 2C 1C 00 
80   00 00 00 00 1D 00 00 00 BB BB 0B 00 00 00 00 00 
90   83 80 0F 00 00 7F 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 01 20 00 71 04 00 00 00 31 65 07 00 
C0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF BF 00 00 00 00 77 80 77 00 
D0   00 21 09 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   80 00 72 00 92 14 00 00 80 00 4B 61 64 02 13 00 
F0   1B 1B 1B 1B 00 FF 21 00 77 77 77 77 00 00 0F 80

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 3 (0x03)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03A9
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 A9 03 06 00 A0 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 28 1C 80 04 20 1C A0 
50   04 18 1C 90 04 20 1C 90 04 28 1C 90 04 18 1C 80 
60   04 20 1C 80 04 28 1C 80 04 30 1C 80 04 38 1C 80 
70   02 20 1C 80 3F 41 30 C0 00 00 00 00 3E 30 40 C9 
80   01 00 00 00 42 30 44 C9 02 1F 1C 80 60 10 00 40 
90   8D DA 01 09 00 00 00 00 11 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 80 99 80 00 00 00 19 00 A8 61 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 18 1F 00 00 00 00 02 00 01 8C 01 8C 
C0   FF FF FF FF 00 00 00 00 18 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 10 10 18 00 00 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 4 (0x04)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03AB
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 AB 03 06 00 A0 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   43 88 30 02 22 80 02 08 20 00 01 0A 81 10 21 06 
60   43 08 11 08 84 08 31 02 22 90 B5 18 8C 31 A5 1C 
70   6B A5 B4 12 29 31 F1 0C C7 18 84 12 29 A1 94 10 
80   89 48 09 21 62 04 31 08 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   63 80 01 00 43 08 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   0B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   01 00 00 00 22 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 5 (0x05)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03A8
Revision ID0xA2
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 A8 03 04 00 A0 00 A2 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 6 (0x06)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B5
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B5 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 F0 0F 3F 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 0 (0x00), function 7 (0x07)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B4
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B4 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 11 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 70 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 10 21 00 00 AC 00 20 00 
C0   10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03AD
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 AD 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 01 00 00 3F 44 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   08 F8 F0 A0 0C 0C 04 7E 0C 00 00 00 02 2B 7F 04 
60   65 00 52 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 33 00 20 00 
70   47 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   3F 63 00 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 2A 1F 55 
90   35 C9 23 30 60 A5 95 45 0D 2E 22 76 03 05 33 0E 
A0   00 00 16 16 00 11 01 00 20 00 27 0A 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   31 26 61 24 31 26 61 24 31 26 61 24 31 26 61 24 
E0   03 00 00 00 10 08 71 0F F1 01 00 00 11 11 70 11 
F0   10 18 FF 08 08 10 03 04 11 00 00 00 63 03 77 40

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 1 (0x01)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03AE
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 AE 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 FF FF 07 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   01 01 00 00 10 10 00 00 01 01 00 00 10 10 00 00 
70   01 08 A0 CE 00 00 00 00 01 08 A0 CE 00 00 00 00 
80   01 10 00 16 21 42 F0 03 10 00 40 00 10 40 F0 00 
90   13 00 00 10 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 10 
A0   00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 1B 06 82 81 20 00 00 00 01 01 00 00 
D0   5A 08 00 01 04 00 10 00 00 00 20 00 00 00 30 00 
E0   88 38 38 2B 82 10 EC 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 2 (0x02)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03AF
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 AF 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   D0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 60 18 50 84 D5 02 00 06 
50   54 00 02 00 3E 00 08 11 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 
60   FF FF 03 04 0E 00 00 00 28 80 90 00 00 00 00 00 
70   01 01 01 01 08 00 B1 3C 0A 22 07 07 50 00 F2 02 
80   95 13 00 00 21 F2 CE FB E1 00 50 00 00 00 00 00 
90   08 00 3F 70 08 00 1F 0C 08 0F 17 00 08 0F 18 00 
A0   50 00 00 00 30 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   FF FF 00 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 3 (0x03)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B0
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B0 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   FF FF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   51 51 00 00 55 01 00 00 44 16 00 00 44 02 00 00 
70   55 01 00 00 44 16 00 00 44 02 00 00 FF FF FF FF 
80   FF FF FF FF 00 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 42 22 22 32 21 32 22 31 AA AA AA AA 
A0   AA AA AA AA AE 0A E0 00 08 0C 0F 0F 08 09 08 09 
B0   0C 0A 0E 0C 09 0A 0B 0A FF FF 03 00 00 07 00 00 
C0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
D0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
E0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
F0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 4 (0x04)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B1
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B1 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   73 7F 00 00 FF FF 03 00 98 3A 30 80 80 01 00 02 
50   00 00 00 00 1F 1F 00 00 0F 0F 0F 0F F4 F1 41 00 
60   0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F F0 F1 41 00 
70   0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 07 00 00 00 0F 0F 00 00 
80   0F 0F 00 00 F0 F1 41 00 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 
90   0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 
A0   0F 0F 0F 0F F0 F1 41 02 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 
B0   08 04 00 00 40 24 44 11 42 44 45 44 64 64 44 00 
C0   00 00 00 04 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 0C 00 00 00 
D0   03 00 00 00 0F 0F 00 00 0F 0F 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 
F0   FF FF 00 02 00 00 00 00 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F 0F

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 5 (0x05)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B2
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B2 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   F9 01 A0 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 1 (0x01), function 6 (0x06)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B3
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B3 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 33 33 33 43 00 00 00 00 33 33 33 33 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
80   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
90   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
A0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
B0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 07 07 07 07 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 40 40 40 40 88 88 77 00 
E0   00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 00 07 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 88 00 01 02 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 2 (0x02), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B6
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B6 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 08 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   FD 31 50 F4 0D 9D A5 A0 57 BB E8 F9 63 F3 74 3E 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 C1 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 20 00 00 00 80 00 00 
C0   00 02 C7 C7 00 00 01 00 06 00 00 20 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 02 00 00 00 03 80 08 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 2 (0x02), function 1 (0x01)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03BC
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 BC 03 06 00 A0 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 2 (0x02), function 2 (0x02)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03BA
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x0000
Subsystem ID0x0000
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 BA 03 00 00 20 00 A1 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   FF FF 0F 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   44 44 44 11 40 64 43 64 64 64 44 00 00 00 00 04 
A0   00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 06 00 00 00 03 00 00 00 
B0   41 47 74 00 40 04 40 04 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   10 00 00 00 09 00 00 00 51 45 55 00 40 04 40 04 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 13 00 00 00 09 00 00 00 
E0   40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 40 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

PCI to PCI Bridge
bus 0 (0x00), device 3 (0x03), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03B7
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x04
BaseClass0x06
Cache Line0x08
Latency0x00
Header0x01
PCI header
Primary bus0x00
Secondary bus0x01
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Capabilities
Subsystem Vendor Capability
Offset40h
Subsystem ID0x0C55
Sub. Vendor ID0x10DE
Power Management Capability
Offset48h
Version1.1
Message Signalled Interrupts Capability
Offset50h
HyperTransport Capability
Offset60h
Interface typeMSI Mapping
PCI Express Capability
Offset80h
Device typeRoot Port of PCI-E Root Complex
Port0
Version1.0
Physical slot#0
Presence detectyes
Link width16x (max 16x)
Extended capabilities
Virtual Channel
Offset100h
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 B7 03 07 04 10 00 A1 00 04 06 08 00 01 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 01 00 E1 E1 00 00 
20   00 F8 F0 FB 01 D0 F1 DF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 18 00 
40   0D 48 00 00 DE 10 55 0C 01 50 02 F8 00 00 00 00 
50   05 60 93 00 0C 30 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 A2 49 00 00 
60   08 80 00 A8 00 00 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   10 00 41 01 01 80 00 00 10 28 01 00 01 35 11 00 
90   40 00 01 31 00 00 00 00 C0 01 48 01 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

PCI to PCI Bridge
bus 0 (0x00), device 7 (0x07), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x03BB
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x00
SubClass0x04
BaseClass0x06
Cache Line0x08
Latency0x00
Header0x01
PCI header
Primary bus0x00
Secondary bus0x02
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Capabilities
Subsystem Vendor Capability
Offset40h
Subsystem ID0x0C55
Sub. Vendor ID0x10DE
Power Management Capability
Offset48h
Version1.1
Message Signalled Interrupts Capability
Offset50h
HyperTransport Capability
Offset60h
Interface typeMSI Mapping
PCI Express Capability
Offset80h
Device typeRoot Port of PCI-E Root Complex
Port2
Version1.0
Physical slot#0
Presence detectyes
Link width1x (max 1x)
Extended capabilities
Virtual Channel
Offset100h
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 BB 03 07 04 10 00 A1 00 04 06 08 00 01 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 02 00 C1 C1 00 00 
20   D0 FD D0 FD F1 FD F1 FD 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   0D 48 00 00 DE 10 55 0C 01 50 02 F8 00 00 00 00 
50   05 60 93 00 0C 30 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 92 49 00 00 
60   08 80 00 A8 00 00 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   10 00 41 01 01 80 00 00 10 28 00 00 11 34 11 02 
90   10 00 11 10 00 00 00 00 C0 01 48 01 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 9 (0x09), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0270
Revision ID0xA2
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Capabilities
HyperTransport Capability
Offset44h
Revision1.03
Interface typeSlave/Primary
Link 0 width (in/out)8 bits/8 bits
Link 0 frequency1000MHz
Link 1 width (in/out)8 bits/8 bits
Link 1 frequency200MHz
HyperTransport Capability
OffsetE0h
Interface typeMSI Mapping
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 70 02 06 00 B0 00 A2 00 00 05 00 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   43 10 BC 81 08 E0 E9 01 22 20 00 00 D0 00 00 00 
50   23 06 7F 80 03 00 00 00 00 00 03 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 06 06 05 00 
70   44 44 44 00 50 01 00 00 11 00 00 00 11 11 55 00 
80   23 55 55 00 FA 00 64 0C 03 00 00 00 7F 00 00 00 
90   78 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 01 01 01 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 80 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   08 00 00 A8 00 00 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

PCI to ISA Bridge
bus 0 (0x00), device 10 (0x0A), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0260
Revision ID0xA3
PI0x00
SubClass0x01
BaseClass0x06
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 60 02 0F 00 A0 00 A3 00 01 06 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 
40   43 10 BC 81 00 00 FF FE FA 3E FF 00 FA 3E FF 00 
50   FA 3E FF 00 00 5A 62 02 00 00 00 01 00 00 FF 7F 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F9 FF 
70   10 00 FF FF CD 00 00 00 00 00 44 19 40 06 03 00 
80   09 80 00 18 02 0D 00 00 F0 00 00 01 F0 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 21 47 65 B7 EF CD 00 00 
A0   00 00 10 C1 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   90 02 EF 02 00 08 5F 08 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

SMBus Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 10 (0x0A), function 1 (0x01)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0264
Revision ID0xA3
PI0x00
SubClass0x05
BaseClass0x0C
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Address 4 (port)0x00001C00
Address 5 (port)0x00001C80
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x0B
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset44h
Version1.1
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 64 02 01 00 B0 00 A3 00 05 0C 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   01 1C 00 00 81 1C 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 01 00 00 
40   43 10 BC 81 01 00 02 C0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   01 10 00 00 01 14 00 00 01 18 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   D4 30 80 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   10 10 04 00 00 A0 00 00 80 38 00 00 46 44 44 11 
F0   5A FF 5F BF 00 00 00 C0 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

RAM Memory Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 10 (0x0A), function 2 (0x02)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0272
Revision ID0xA3
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x05
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 72 02 00 04 A0 00 A3 00 00 05 00 00 80 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 10 00 00 10 10 
50   10 10 10 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   02 03 00 00 12 00 00 00 02 00 00 00 10 01 12 00 
70   32 33 00 00 03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 12 01 00 00 
80   10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 30 02 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 01 20 00 00 01 00 00 00 00 09 00 00 
A0   01 02 00 00 00 10 00 00 05 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 
B0   00 10 00 80 01 00 00 80 00 00 00 00 02 00 00 00 
C0   07 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

USB Controller (OHCI)
bus 0 (0x00), device 11 (0x0B), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x026D
Revision ID0xA3
PI0x10
SubClass0x03
BaseClass0x0C
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Address 0 (memory)0xFE02F000
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x16
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset44h
Version1.1
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 6D 02 06 00 B0 00 A3 10 03 0C 00 00 80 00 
10   00 F0 02 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 16 01 03 01 
40   43 10 BC 81 01 00 02 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   43 00 00 00 1D 47 40 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

USB 2.0 Controller (EHCI)
bus 0 (0x00), device 11 (0x0B), function 1 (0x01)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x026E
Revision ID0xA3
PI0x20
SubClass0x03
BaseClass0x0C
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x80
PCI header
Address 0 (memory)0xFE02E000
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x14
Int. Pin0x02
Capabilities
Debug Port Capability
Offset44h
Power Management Capability
Offset80h
Version1.1
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 6E 02 06 00 B0 00 A3 20 03 0C 00 00 80 00 
10   00 E0 02 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 14 02 03 01 
40   43 10 BC 81 0A 80 98 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   20 20 01 00 00 60 18 85 03 3C 0A 01 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 08 05 00 10 20 80 89 3D B6 22 77 25 34 00 
80   01 00 02 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 16 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   01 00 00 00 00 00 00 C0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 11 22 33 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   10 10 2D 0D 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

IDE Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 13 (0x0D), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0265
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x8A
SubClass0x01
BaseClass0x01
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 4 (port)0x0000FD00
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x00
Int. Pin0x00
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset44h
Version1.1
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 65 02 05 00 B8 00 A1 8A 01 01 00 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   01 FD 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 01 
40   43 10 BC 81 01 00 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   03 F0 01 00 00 00 00 00 A8 A8 20 20 5A 00 99 20 
60   00 00 C5 C0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

IDE Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 14 (0x0E), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0266
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x85
SubClass0x01
BaseClass0x01
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 0 (port)0x000009F0
Address 1 (port)0x00000BF0
Address 2 (port)0x00000970
Address 3 (port)0x00000B70
Address 4 (port)0x0000F800
Address 5 (memory)0xFE02D000
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x17
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset44h
Version1.1
Message Signalled Interrupts Capability
OffsetB0h
HyperTransport Capability
OffsetCCh
Interface typeMSI Mapping
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 66 02 07 00 B0 00 A1 85 01 01 00 00 00 00 
10   F1 09 00 00 F1 0B 00 00 71 09 00 00 71 0B 00 00 
20   01 F8 00 00 00 D0 02 FE 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 17 01 03 01 
40   43 10 BC 81 01 B0 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   07 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 A8 A8 20 20 5A 00 99 20 
60   00 00 C5 C0 51 0C 00 00 00 0F 06 42 00 00 00 00 
70   2C 78 C4 40 01 10 00 00 01 10 00 00 20 00 20 00 
80   00 00 00 C0 00 10 3C 13 00 00 20 84 00 30 6B 7F 
90   00 00 08 94 00 00 00 00 06 00 06 10 00 00 01 01 
A0   14 10 00 2A 80 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 33 33 00 02 
B0   05 CC 84 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 00 0A 00 08 00 02 A8 
D0   01 00 02 48 42 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 84 00 00 E0 
E0   01 00 02 48 42 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F0 E7 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 00 00 00 00 00

IDE Controller
bus 0 (0x00), device 15 (0x0F), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0267
Revision ID0xA1
PI0x85
SubClass0x01
BaseClass0x01
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 0 (port)0x000009E0
Address 1 (port)0x00000BE0
Address 2 (port)0x00000960
Address 3 (port)0x00000B60
Address 4 (port)0x0000F300
Address 5 (memory)0xFE02C000
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81BC
Int. Line0x14
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset44h
Version1.1
Message Signalled Interrupts Capability
OffsetB0h
HyperTransport Capability
OffsetCCh
Interface typeMSI Mapping
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 67 02 07 00 B0 00 A1 85 01 01 00 00 00 00 
10   E1 09 00 00 E1 0B 00 00 61 09 00 00 61 0B 00 00 
20   01 F3 00 00 00 C0 02 FE 00 00 00 00 43 10 BC 81 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 14 01 03 01 
40   43 10 BC 81 01 B0 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   07 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 A8 A8 20 20 5A 00 99 20 
60   00 00 C5 C0 51 0C 00 00 00 0F 06 42 00 00 00 00 
70   2C 78 C4 40 01 10 00 00 01 10 00 00 20 00 20 00 
80   00 00 00 00 A5 7D 11 B9 00 00 99 1D D6 52 FD 61 
90   00 00 FD 06 00 00 00 00 06 00 06 10 00 00 01 01 
A0   14 10 00 00 80 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 33 33 00 02 
B0   05 CC 84 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 00 0A 00 08 00 02 A8 
D0   01 00 02 14 42 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 
E0   01 00 02 44 42 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 00 20 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 00 00 00 00 00

PCI to PCI Bridge
bus 0 (0x00), device 16 (0x10), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x026F
Revision ID0xA2
PI0x01
SubClass0x04
BaseClass0x06
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x81
PCI header
Primary bus0x00
Secondary bus0x03
Int. Line0xFF
Int. Pin0x00
Capabilities
Subsystem Vendor Capability
OffsetB8h
Subsystem ID0xCB84
Sub. Vendor ID0x10DE
HyperTransport Capability
Offset8Ch
Interface typeMSI Mapping
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 6F 02 07 04 B0 00 A2 01 04 06 00 00 81 00 
10   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 03 80 D0 D0 80 02 
20   00 E8 F0 EF E0 FD E0 FD 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
30   00 00 00 00 B8 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FF 00 00 02 
40   00 00 03 00 01 00 02 00 07 00 00 00 00 00 44 00 
50   00 00 FE 7F 00 00 00 00 FF 1F FF 1F 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 FE FF 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00 00 A8 
90   00 00 E0 FE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   06 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 FF FF 00 00 0D 8C 00 00 DE 10 84 CB 
C0   DE 10 84 CB 03 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Bridge device
bus 0 (0x00), device 20 (0x14), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0269
Revision ID0xA3
PI0x00
SubClass0x80
BaseClass0x06
Cache Line0x00
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 0 (memory)0xFE02B000
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x8221
Int. Line0x15
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset44h
Version1.1
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 69 02 06 00 B0 00 A3 00 80 06 00 00 00 00 
10   00 B0 02 FE 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 21 82 
30   00 00 00 00 44 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 01 01 14 
40   43 10 21 82 01 00 02 FE 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 10 
50   05 6C 84 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0F 00 00 00 08 00 02 A8 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 11 00 00 00 42 01 00 00 00 00 00 00

VGA Controller
bus 1 (0x01), device 0 (0x00), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x10DE
Model ID0x0191
Revision ID0xA2
PI0x00
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x03
Cache Line0x08
Latency0x00
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 0 (memory)0xFA000000
Address 1 (memory)0xD0000000
Address 3 (memory)0xF8000000
Address 5 (port)0x0000EF00
Subvendor ID0x3842
Subsystem ID0xC831
Int. Line0x10
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset60h
Version1.1
Message Signalled Interrupts Capability
Offset68h
PCI Express Capability
Offset78h
Device typePCI-E Endpoint Device
Port0
Version1.0
Link width16x (max 16x)
Extended capabilities
Virtual Channel
Offset100h
Power Budgeting Capability
Offset128h
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   DE 10 91 01 07 00 10 00 A2 00 00 03 08 00 00 00 
10   00 00 00 FA 0C 00 00 D0 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 F8 
20   00 00 00 00 01 EF 00 00 00 00 00 00 42 38 31 C8 
30   00 00 00 00 60 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 01 00 00 
40   42 38 31 C8 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   01 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 CE D6 23 00 00 00 00 00 
60   01 68 02 00 00 00 00 00 05 78 80 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 10 00 01 00 80 04 00 00 
80   10 28 00 00 01 2D 01 00 48 00 01 11 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

Audio device
bus 3 (0x03), device 7 (0x07), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x1102
Model ID0x0005
Revision ID0x00
PI0x00
SubClass0x01
BaseClass0x04
Cache Line0x08
Latency0x20
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 0 (port)0x0000DF00
Address 1 (memory)0xEFC00000
Address 3 (memory)0xE8000000
Subvendor ID0x1102
Subsystem ID0x0031
Int. Line0x11
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset40h
Version1.1
Message Signalled Interrupts Capability
Offset50h
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   02 11 05 00 07 00 10 02 00 00 01 04 08 20 00 00 
10   01 DF 00 00 04 00 C0 EF 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 E8 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 11 31 00 
30   00 00 00 00 40 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 11 01 04 05 
40   01 50 22 06 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   05 00 80 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 AA 83 00 00 
D0   00 80 00 00 FF FF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   80 00 1A 00 1C CF 00 00 00 00 00 00 05 00 80 80 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

OHCI FireWire Controller
bus 3 (0x03), device 8 (0x08), function 0 (0x00)
Common header
Vendor ID0x1106
Model ID0x3044
Revision ID0xC0
PI0x10
SubClass0x00
BaseClass0x0C
Cache Line0x08
Latency0x20
Header0x00
PCI header
Address 0 (memory)0xEFFFF000
Address 1 (port)0x0000DE00
Subvendor ID0x1043
Subsystem ID0x81FE
Int. Line0x12
Int. Pin0x01
Capabilities
Power Management Capability
Offset50h
Version1.1
Dump
      0  1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  A  B  C  D  E  F 
00   06 11 44 30 17 00 10 02 C0 10 00 0C 08 20 00 00 
10   00 F0 FF EF 01 DE 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
20   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 43 10 FE 81 
30   00 00 00 00 50 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 12 01 00 20 
40   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
50   01 00 02 E4 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
60   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
70   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
80   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
90   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
A0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
B0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
C0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
D0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
E0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 
F0   00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

DMI
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DMI BIOS
--------
vendorPhoenix Technologies, LTD
versionASUS P5N-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0703
date08/09/2007

DMI System Information
----------------------
manufacturerSystem manufacturer
productSystem Product Name
versionSystem Version
serialSystem Serial Number
UUID2C09143B-5599DB11-87BFF6F8-63C253CE

DMI Baseboard
-------------
vendorASUSTeK Computer INC.
modelP5N-E SLI
revision1.XX
serial123456789000

DMI System Enclosure
--------------------
manufacturerChassis Manufacture
chassis typeDesktop
chassis serialEVAL

DMI Processor
-------------
manufacturerIntel
modelIntel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU     E6750  @ 2.66GHz
clock speed2666.0MHz
FSB speed333.0MHz
multiplier8.0x

DMI Memory Controller
---------------------
correction8-bit parity
Max module size32MBytes

DMI Memory Module
-----------------
designationDIMM_A1
size1024MBytes (double bank)

DMI Memory Module
-----------------
designationDIMM_A2

DMI Memory Module
-----------------
designationDIMM_B1
size1024MBytes (double bank)

DMI Memory Module
-----------------
designationDIMM_B2

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationPRI_IDE (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationFLOPPY (internal)
port type8251 FIFO Compatible
connectorOn Board Floppy

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCOM1 (internal)
port typeSerial Port 16450
connector9 Pin Dual Inline (pin 10 cut)
connectorDB-9 male

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationPS/2 Keyboard (internal)
port typeKeyboard Port
connectorPS/2
connectorPS/2

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationPS/2 Mouse (internal)
port typeMouse Port
connectorPS/2
connectorPS/2

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB1 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB2 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB3 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB4 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB5 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB6 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB7 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB8 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB9 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationUSB10 (external)
port typeUSB

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationLINE_IN (internal)
designationLINE_IN (external)
port typeAudio Port

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationBack Surround L/R (internal)
designationBack Surround L/R (external)
port typeAudio Port
connectorMini Jack (headphones)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSide Surround L/R (internal)
designationSide Surround L/R (external)
port typeAudio Port
connectorMini Jack (headphones)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCenter/LFE (internal)
designationCenter/LFE (external)
port typeAudio Port
connectorMini Jack (headphones)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSPDIF_01 (external)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSPDIF_02 (external)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationLAN_1 (external)
port typeNetwork Port
connectorRJ-45

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationLAN_2 (external)
port typeNetwork Port
connectorRJ-45

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationIE1394_1 (external)
port typeFirewire (IEEE P1394)
connectorIEEE 1394

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationIE1394_2 (external)
port typeFirewire (IEEE P1394)
connectorIEEE 1394

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSATA1 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSATA2 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSATA3 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSATA4 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSATA5 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationSATA6 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationEX_SATA1 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationEX_SATA2 (internal)
connectorOn Board IDE

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCHASSIS (internal)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationADH (internal)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationAUDIO1 (internal)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCPU_FAN1 (internal)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCHA_FAN1 (internal)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCHA_FAN2 (internal)

DMI Port Connector
------------------
designationCHA_FAN3 (internal)

DMI Extension Slot
------------------
designationPCI1
typePCI
width32 bits
populatedno

DMI Extension Slot
------------------
designationPCI2
typePCI
width32 bits
populatedyes

DMI Extension Slot
------------------
designationPCIEX16_1
typeA5
populatedyes

DMI Extension Slot
------------------
designationPCIEX16_2
typeA5
populatedno

DMI Extension Slot
------------------
designationPCIEX1_1
typeA5
populatedno

DMI Physical Memory Array
-------------------------
locationMotherboard
usageSystem Memory
correctionNone
max capacity128MBytes
max# of devices4

DMI Memory Device
-----------------
designationDIMM_A1
formatDIMM
typeunknown
size1024MBytes

DMI Memory Device
-----------------
designationDIMM_A2
formatDIMM
typeunknown

DMI Memory Device
-----------------
designationDIMM_B1
formatDIMM
typeunknown
size1024MBytes

DMI Memory Device
-----------------
designationDIMM_B2
formatDIMM
typeunknown

Software
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Windows VersionMicrosoft Windows Vista (6.0) Home Premium Edition   (Build 6000) 
DirectX Version10.0

Resources
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Port I/O Space, BA=0x1C00
Port I/O Space, BA=0x1C80
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FE02F000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FE02E000
Port I/O Space, BA=0xFD00
Port I/O Space, BA=0x9F0
Port I/O Space, BA=0xBF0
Port I/O Space, BA=0x970
Port I/O Space, BA=0xB70
Port I/O Space, BA=0xF800
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FE02D000
Port I/O Space, BA=0x9E0
Port I/O Space, BA=0xBE0
Port I/O Space, BA=0x960
Port I/O Space, BA=0xB60
Port I/O Space, BA=0xF300
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FE02C000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FE02B000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FA000000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000D0000000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000F8000000
Port I/O Space, BA=0xEF00
Port I/O Space, BA=0xDF00
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000EFC00000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000E8000000
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000EFFFF000
Port I/O Space, BA=0xDE00
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000F0000000, size=0x1000
Port I/O Space, BA=0x1008, size=0x4
Memory I/O Space, BA=0x00000000FEE00000, size=0x1000
Port I/O Space, BA=0x290
Port I/O Space, BA=0x2E

Thanks for the help, it was great to actually play games on this gaming rig.


----------



## Ned

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


1) your video card is overheating. when a system tests normally and has no problems at all, but crashes during intensive 3d applications (i.e. games), this is often the problem. how much case cooling do you have going? install speedfan and check your motherboard temps as well. those 8800 cards have wicked cooling, so i'd be kinda surprised if this was the problem, but if you've only got like 1 case fan going it could just be that the ambient case temp is too high, in which case the cards stock cooling won't do s**t.


Forgot to add that the only temp out of range on ASUS PC Probe II v1.04.19 is the mb temp, it runs about 41 C idle and 51 C loaded. That is with the liquid cooling running about 2/3 , it is not too noisy then, if I crank it up it is cooler but very loud.


----------



## TriBeCa

Ned (I was gonna quote but there's lots of little things I want to adress):

First off, I think your case is running a little hot. You've got liquid cooling on your CPU, but from what you've said it sounds like you have no case cooling, and stock NB/SB cooling? At a minimum you need 2x120mm fans going (one intake, one exhaust). I suspect this is why your MB loads to 51c (mine loads at 39C max, with a 50% OC), and it may still be the reason for the crashes you were experiencing before. If there's not enough 'cool' external air being drawn into the case, your GPU will get too hot even though the 8800's have really sexy stock cooling.

Incidentally, 400 MHz is correct for PC6400 RAM. This is because DDR ram is, as the name implies, 'double data rate.' In other words they use spiffy technology to double the true clock rate. Hence, it runs at 400MHz but behaves like it's 800MHz. The exact same thing is true of your FSB, except that it's 4x instead of 2x. If you set your FSB to 1600 in the BIOS, you 'true' FSB is 400 but your rated FSB is 1600. CPU-Z will show you this as well.

And finally, use the RAM timings printed on the actual modules.

Now...you gonna OC that ring? It's a beaut. I was OCing my new board last night and I went from 2.13-3GHz at stock voltages. I only gave it 1 min. in orthos, but the point is you can get pretty substantial performance boosts without even having to run any hotter







You can also almost definately get your RAM down to 1T and probably tighten up the timings as well....


----------



## TriBeCa

In other news, I got a working board back from ASUS yesterday









Got back up to 3.2GHz last night, and am stress testing now. Orthos caught an error after ~3.5 hours last run through, so I've increased the vcore again and am trying again.

I DO believe there's an FSB hole in the board, as azn1337 has been saying. I was booting into windows and passing 1 minute of orthos on stock voltages all the way up to 381.3. At 387.5 I had to push up the NB voltage to 1.5, and at 393.8 I had to put it to 1.7V. At this point I had to start pushing the vcore up too. While it's not totally fair because I was only running 1 min orthos tests before, and now I'm trying to get to 8 hours, it is nonetheless true that I went from 1.35 vcore at 381.3 to 1.4625 vcore at 400. That seems a little extreme for just that tiny push.

Anyway, load temps peak at 53c at 400, so I've got a fair bit of headroom (I f***ing love this new cooler). This weekend I'm gonna try pushing further. The FSB hole is supposed to stop at around 450, so hopefully I can get over that and take the NB voltage back down a bit....


----------



## Ned

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
First off, I think your case is running a little hot. You've got liquid cooling on your CPU, but from what you've said it sounds like you have no case cooling, and stock NB/SB cooling? At a minimum you need 2x120mm fans going (one intake, one exhaust). I suspect this is why your MB loads to 51c (mine loads at 39C max, with a 50% OC), and it may still be the reason for the crashes you were experiencing before. If there's not enough 'cool' external air being drawn into the case, your GPU will get too hot even though the 8800's have really sexy stock cooling.

I have a lot to learn about cooling. The 51c was after 4 + hours of gaming and the liquid cooler was not on full speed. I don't really want it to run full speed though, it is so loud then. I guess I would like a solution with a few more fans all running quietly, which is what is sounds like you are suggesting. Also I never knew what NB and SB were, I know they mean Northbridge and Southbridge but still don't know more than that.
My case is supposed to have a mounting bracket for side fans but they did not send it with the system so I might have some work ahead of me getting cooling right. I did buy a GPU fan at staples (because I was there already) but even with the extension if was way shorter than the 8800 so I don't know if it did anything. I only used it for a couple of days, it was very loud and I didn't notice any temp difference. The case is all has a lot of airflow but overall I am would rather have something else, it is giant.
I also need to learn how to use the fan program I downloaded, I think systemfan.

Once I get the cooling and timing set, I will probably try some overclocking. In a few months the system will not be looking so awesome without some boosts !


----------



## TriBeCa

where are the blocks for your liquid cooling? it would maybe help if you could take a picture of your rig with the side panel off, so i can see where everything goes in there.

if there's no block on the northbridge then it's probably on stock, and it won't matter how high you turn up your liquid cooler. if it is on stock, the northbridge is underneath the big silver heatsink that says ASUS on it. The southbridge is bare at stock, and is located near the IDE connectors, right between the two PCI-E 16x slots. It's a large black chip that says nVidia on it.

As for your case, I'd just get fans for wherever there's room for one. Generally, front fans and side fans are for intake. Top fans and rear fans are for exhaust. You can get your fans from www.newegg.com. Go with panaflos or sanyos. You can also ask around more about cooling in the relevant forums (liquid and air, respectively).


----------



## mcogan10

this board is very good....overclocked my 6400 32a to 3.2 ghz (400fsb) with everything at stock voltages. not bad on stock cooling, but it was freezing in my room and now im running at stock in my HOT dorm room. need to get some aftermarket cooling...

on a seperate note, i sold my tuniq tower after a capacitor was in hte way of it mounting. anyone else have this issue, or have a list of incompatible coolers?


----------



## LeeVing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
anyone else have this issue, or have a list of incompatible coolers?

While I like my AC Freezer 7 pro, and it's listed as "Compatible", the fan casing does hit the stock NB HS. So there is some cutting of plastic involved to get it in right. But once it's in, it is much petter than the stock cooler I had.

Not as cool of temps as a Zalman, but close.


----------



## Ned

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


where are the blocks for your liquid cooling? it would maybe help if you could take a picture of your rig with the side panel off, so i can see where everything goes in there.



I think the only thing the liquid cooling is connected to is the cpu. Basically 2 tubes of blue liquid that run from a card to the cpu. I will take a pic and post it when I get home though.


----------



## TriBeCa

GRRRR just lost my post









anyway. here's the short version:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


this board is very good....overclocked my 6400 32a to 3.2 ghz (400fsb) with everything at stock voltages. not bad on stock cooling, but it was freezing in my room and now im running at stock in my HOT dorm room. need to get some aftermarket cooling...

on a seperate note, i sold my tuniq tower after a capacitor was in hte way of it mounting. anyone else have this issue, or have a list of incompatible coolers?


if you can spend the $, get a Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme, it's an amazing cooler. make sure it fits in your case though--you need 6.3" clearance above the CPU socket.

and i hate you for getting 400FSB on stock. unless you mean you left the voltage settings on auto, because if so I guarentee you're not at stock







I had to go to 1.7vNB and 1.4625vcore to get 400 FSB with my e6400


----------



## Ned

Checked out newegg and I found my case there:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811119103

It does have a front fan and a back fan (I was calling this the power supply fan). With the door closed I am not sure how well the front one works. I will try to remember to leave it open when gaming though. There is a bracket that can hold 4 fans on the side but I don't have it. I will see if cyberpower will send it to me, they probably chucked it, I should have ordered some fans with the pc, they had the option.
It is a pretty nice case, just really huge, I should have checked the measurements first you can fit 2 or 3 dells in there.


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, that's a nice looking case. even ONE side panel intak fan will make a big difference...4 will be kinda loud but should give you crazy good case temps. probably only 1-2C higher than your ambient room temp. This will keep your NB, SB, RAM, GPU, and voltage exchangers much cooler--all of which is good









I'm a fan of using as much case cooling as is humanly possible


----------



## Ned

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yeah, that's a nice looking case. even ONE side panel intak fan will make a big difference...4 will be kinda loud but should give you crazy good case temps. probably only 1-2C higher than your ambient room temp. This will keep your NB, SB, RAM, GPU, and voltage exchangers much cooler--all of which is good









I'm a fan of using as much case cooling as is humanly possible










Just talked to cyberpower, they said they get OEM cases that don't come with the wheels or the side fan bracket. He also said I would not have room for the side fan bracket since I have the liquid cooler. That jogs my memory about someone saying they couldn't use the side bracket with the 8800.
I also found a cool fan for that case but I found a few people who say it won't fit with the 8800

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16800887011

This appears to be the liquid cooler I have: 
http://www.coolermaster.com/products...te=152&id=2867


----------



## Gauvenator

I'm interested in purchasing an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. Does anyone know if it will fit on this mobo with that giant nb heatsink?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I'm interested in purchasing an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. Does anyone know if it will fit on this mobo with that giant nb heatsink?

it will fit, but you either remove some of the plastic on the ACF7Pro, or bend the little tab that says ASUS on the NB heatsink.

Get an ultra-120 extreme instead









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ned* 
Just talked to cyberpower, they said they get OEM cases that don't come with the wheels or the side fan bracket. He also said I would not have room for the side fan bracket since I have the liquid cooler. That jogs my memory about someone saying they couldn't use the side bracket with the 8800.
I also found a cool fan for that case but I found a few people who say it won't fit with the 8800

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16800887011

This appears to be the liquid cooler I have:
http://www.coolermaster.com/products...te=152&id=2867

Can you figure out a way to mod a 120mm fan onto the side panel? If it's plexiglass, you can just drill holes in at the right width to screw the fan on, and if needed you can drill really small holes to allow more airflow. Check the thread in my sig--one or two of those pics show my side-panel fan mod. Alternatively, you can just electrical tape a fan to the side of the case, which will also help. This is what I did before doing the full mod, and it dropped my (air-cooled) CPU temp by 4c at the time, even though it wasn't even drawing in any external air. You need a lot of electrical tape, but you just place the fan against the side of the case, tape each of the corners down with a single strip of tape, and then use an arseload of tape to tape each of those original 4 pieces down.


----------



## pheoxs

Edit:
Never mind Figured it out...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
it will fit, but you either remove some of the plastic on the ACF7Pro, or bend the little tab that says ASUS on the NB heatsink.

Get an ultra-120 extreme instead









lol, that thing is huge

If anyone has any other suggestions for a hsf that will be cooler and quieter than stock that doesn't involve mobo removal, I'm open to them.


----------



## Gauvenator

Does the ultra-120 extreme require mobo removal?


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, it does. you'll be hard pressed to find a cooler that doesn't, tbh. I don't know of ANY that don't...because those clips that don't use a backplate suck, and are really easy to install improperly. and you want a LOT of pressure on the thermal mating surface.

yes, the ultra-120 is huge, but it's also arguably the best aftermarket cooler out there. I already had an aftermarket cooler (though not a spectacular one--the Tt Golden Orb II), and it dropped my temps by >15C. as long as you have 6.3" between your CPU and the side of your case, it will fit.


----------



## TriBeCa

seems my new board doesn't like my ram at 1T







my last board ran this exact overclock with RAM at all stock except for 1T. this one hits orthos errors after ~20 minutes at 1T, and no amount of vdimm will help it....

if anyone wants to help me with this, head over to this thread.


----------



## LeeVing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I'm interested in purchasing an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. Does anyone know if it will fit on this mobo with that giant nb heatsink?

It takes a bit of trimming of the plastic fan casing. Just on one corner that hits the NB. I used my old "nibbler" to trim some of the corner off, it's not too much of a hassle.


----------



## Ravin

Well guys, as I was starting my baseline benchmarks for the G0 Q6600 I ran into a problem. With the system at stock specs no less. While running 3dMark06 my screen went to artifacts and the system crashed. Troubleshooting revealed that my 7600gt is kaput. So.....pending RMA parts, I'm holding off on the benchies until parts come back.

Hopefully it won't take long- I am about ready to start ramping the clocks up and report to you guys the results on this board.


----------



## Ned

I set my ram timings and voltages and ran some benchmarks before and after, the memory ones from SI Sandra. I downloaded 3DMark06 but it crashed everytime I ran it.
I have no idea how to read the results but I looked at the graphs and it showed a big improvement.

I did 5-5-5-12 2T 1.9v

I took some pictures of my system, I will have to show them later. I did see a nice 120mm fan bracket on the top of the system so I will get a fan for that. Would that be an intake fan or an exhaust fan?


----------



## mcogan10

two good heatsinks that use a pushpin configuration are the scythe infinity and the scythe ninja...the ninja is better with lower rpm fans and a one fan configuration, but it cant beat an infinity with high rpm fans in a push-pull config.


----------



## kkbob33

EDIT: wrong thread


----------



## TriBeCa

unless i'm totally crazy, there's no way to adjust SB voltage on the 650i, and the SB comes bare....

anyway, I ran my NB at 1.7V for 5 months with no problem on stock, although I had quite a bit of case airflow and I reseated the stock sink with AS5 instead of the garbage TIM that ASUS uses. now i've got a Tt extreme spirit II though, which I'm a little more comforable with







heatpipes ftw!

ned: if 3dmark06 is crashing when you run it, you've got some kind of stability problem. are you orthos stable (for, say, at least 6 hours)? if you're orthos stable and 3dmark is having trouble, then it's pretty much guarenteed to be a video card problem.

back to my problem: I can't get 1T stable no matter what i do







I'd had no luck at various vdimm's last night, and then it occured to me this morning that it's possible the voltage regulators were pulling voltage away from the CPU to feed the DIMMs, so I tried upping vcore as well. i _think_ my intuition was right, as I managed 90 minutes in orthos without a problem, whereas before I'd hit an error at 20-30 minutes. however...at around 90 minutes my system hung.

I'm kind of at a loss as to what to do at this point. I'm gonna try loosening timings to 5-5-5-15, and see if I can hit 1T with that. If I can, I'll try tightening some of those timings back up, and then compare superpi times with 4-4-4-12-2T to whatever the tightest I can manage at 1T is.

any got any other suggestions? i haven't gotten a SINGLE response to my thread in the intel memory section


----------



## kkbob33

woops guys i posted in the wrong thread LMAO.









this should be in the 680i thread. SORRY.


----------



## Ned

I'll download orthos and give it a try. 3DMark06 carshed but my pc was fine, I did not need to reboot or anything. I also did not bother shutting down anti-virus etc. I should have but I was getting bored with reading about what to do and just wanted to run some benchmarks so I could then time the ram.
My biggest test so far has been playing DDO nonstop for 4 1/2 hours.

So what kind of 120mm fan should I put in the top:









Here are some more pics"


----------



## cscheat

*Wow ! cool liquid cooling system !!!

Hey guys !!!

now i keep monitoring my my CPU voltage and temp, after several hours of research, i found that setting AUTO in Vcore voltage is not good (not stable)... Around 1.39V to 1.42V up & down, temp idle = 44C load = 55 C

so i try to put 1.4V as a start for my 355X9 = 3.2Ghz overclock !!!

but it wont boot !!! BSOD comes out, then i try 1.405V and BINGO !!! it boots and temperature is

IDLE = 38C
LOAD = 45C

!!! WHAT THE !!! but my main problem is MB temperature.. seems higher than CPU Temp !!!! Idle = 45 C Load = 55 C

Any ideas ???*


----------



## Ned

So I dowloaded Orthos here . I found the link in the forums here. I have it running the "Blend - Stress CPU and Ram" test. So just run that for 6 hours and if no errors or crashed then I am stable ?


----------



## Christiaan

Run small FFTs for 8+ hours while you sleep. I consider that stable.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Run small FFTs for 8+ hours while you sleep. I consider that stable.










that's horribly overkill









i've noticed that once my overclock is stable for like an hour or more, its stable for good, but i keep mine on for about 4 hours just to be sure. and if i get bored i just cancel it and use my pc


----------



## Christiaan

I like to make sure it's 100% stable.









Spend the 8 hours testing and you know it's stable for good. But that's just me. ^^


----------



## Ned

I had it on "Blend - stress CPU and RAM"
Priority 1

It ran overnight for 10 hours 46 minutes 44 seconds - 0 errors, 0 warnings.

All sensors were checked.

MB temp was 46 C
CPU temp was 64 C (I Should have cranked the cooler all the way up but then we would hear it in the bedroom and my wife would be complaining)

I will try "Small FFT's - stress CPU" when I go to work. I will also max out the fans first. The CPU has cooled down to 46 C in the 2 minutes since I stopped the test.

What do you guys thing of one of these fans for my top exhaust fan, I am looking for something decently quiet (less that 20 dba)

Rexus Panaflo

Thermaltake

Silenx

Cooler Master


----------



## dailytoker

Hey guys, hope you don't mind if I que in...

I just acquired another 2gb (2x1gb) sticks of ram that match my existing 2gb (2x1gb). I throw them in under 32bit XP and it won't boot. So i do my quick research and find out 32bit systems only have 4gb of memory management available at any given time... and since my video card has 768mb... i had to take one out.

So i take one out and run it... it runs good. it boots. it plays games.

I have a copy of Vista Ultimate that was acquired as well, as i'm going to install it i notice it says "this disc contains 64bit software only"... damn, 64 bit. should I rock it? I weight the pro's vs con's and decided i only use the computer for gaming and my mac laptop for everything else... why not?

So i install it under w/ 2gb installed (since i get a bsod w/ 3gigs, and have read vista is tricky when installing over 2gb). so it installs fine. i start loading drivers, it's fine. i put in 4gb, the system won't POST. I take one out to have 3, it runs. sweet... install all drivers, updates, etc... run a game, bwernt... BSOD.

restart

BSOD.

run it w/ 2gb, it works... but things aren't working right. i spend about 2 hours or so working on it and finally give up.

i'm back under xp pro now... running 3gb.. and i'm getting random errors. this is my mem info...

timing, 4-4-4-15
speed, 800mhz
voltage, 2.013

i tried running it w/ higher voltage, the 2.08 (2.1v is max recommended) and i get bsod memory errors. the last one i got was "memory_management", but the others were the normal irq_less_or_greater_than, and there was one other that i forget. oh, and i got a memory dump in there too.

anyways, now that i'm under xp again, and i want to run 3gb... are there any suggestions?

do i need to lower the speed to 667? and if so, is 3gb @ 667 better than 2 @ 800?

Any help would be appreciated


----------



## Ned

Well, I am looking pretty stable. I ran the "Small FFTs - stress CPU" when I went to work and I just stopped it. It ran for 11 hours 4 minutes and 30 seconds. 41/41 rounds 0 errors, 0 warnings.

I had the ac in the room on 72 F and the liquid cool on high. It is not that loud by the way, I think what was loud was the cheap gpu cooler that I have since took out.
When I stopped the test I was 42 C on the MB and 61 C on the CPU.
I picked up a cheap 120mm fan for the case top at lunch today. Mad dog 60 cfm 24 dba. It was $10.99 at circuit city, if it is no good I will get a better one at new egg but I wanted to get something for the weekend.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dailytoker* 
Hey guys, hope you don't mind if I que in...

I just acquired another 2gb (2x1gb) sticks of ram that match my existing 2gb (2x1gb). I throw them in under 32bit XP and it won't boot. So i do my quick research and find out 32bit systems only have 4gb of memory management available at any given time... and since my video card has 768mb... i had to take one out.

So i take one out and run it... it runs good. it boots. it plays games.

I have a copy of Vista Ultimate that was acquired as well, as i'm going to install it i notice it says "this disc contains 64bit software only"... damn, 64 bit. should I rock it? I weight the pro's vs con's and decided i only use the computer for gaming and my mac laptop for everything else... why not?

So i install it under w/ 2gb installed (since i get a bsod w/ 3gigs, and have read vista is tricky when installing over 2gb). so it installs fine. i start loading drivers, it's fine. i put in 4gb, the system won't POST. I take one out to have 3, it runs. sweet... install all drivers, updates, etc... run a game, bwernt... BSOD.

restart

BSOD.

run it w/ 2gb, it works... but things aren't working right. i spend about 2 hours or so working on it and finally give up.

i'm back under xp pro now... running 3gb.. and i'm getting random errors. this is my mem info...

timing, 4-4-4-15
speed, 800mhz
voltage, 2.013

i tried running it w/ higher voltage, the 2.08 (2.1v is max recommended) and i get bsod memory errors. the last one i got was "memory_management", but the others were the normal irq_less_or_greater_than, and there was one other that i forget. oh, and i got a memory dump in there too.

anyways, now that i'm under xp again, and i want to run 3gb... are there any suggestions?

do i need to lower the speed to 667? and if so, is 3gb @ 667 better than 2 @ 800?

Any help would be appreciated










Make sure you timings are set to 4-4-4-15 *2T*<== 1T timings = impossible with 4 sticks.
Also run your ram voltage a bit higher, you can go over 2.1V, OCZ warranties 2.1V +/- 10% (your safe up to 2.2v basically, and won't void the warranty at all)


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dailytoker*


Hey guys, hope you don't mind if I que in...

I just acquired another 2gb (2x1gb) sticks of ram that match my existing 2gb (2x1gb). I throw them in under 32bit XP and it won't boot. So i do my quick research and find out 32bit systems only have 4gb of memory management available at any given time... and since my video card has 768mb... i had to take one out.

So i take one out and run it... it runs good. it boots. it plays games.

I have a copy of Vista Ultimate that was acquired as well, as i'm going to install it i notice it says "this disc contains 64bit software only"... damn, 64 bit. should I rock it? I weight the pro's vs con's and decided i only use the computer for gaming and my mac laptop for everything else... why not?

So i install it under w/ 2gb installed (since i get a bsod w/ 3gigs, and have read vista is tricky when installing over 2gb). so it installs fine. i start loading drivers, it's fine. i put in 4gb, the system won't POST. I take one out to have 3, it runs. sweet... install all drivers, updates, etc... run a game, bwernt... BSOD.

restart

BSOD.

run it w/ 2gb, it works... but things aren't working right. i spend about 2 hours or so working on it and finally give up.

i'm back under xp pro now... running 3gb.. and i'm getting random errors. this is my mem info...

timing, 4-4-4-15
speed, 800mhz
voltage, 2.013

i tried running it w/ higher voltage, the 2.08 (2.1v is max recommended) and i get bsod memory errors. the last one i got was "memory_management", but the others were the normal irq_less_or_greater_than, and there was one other that i forget. oh, and i got a memory dump in there too.

anyways, now that i'm under xp again, and i want to run 3gb... are there any suggestions?

do i need to lower the speed to 667? and if so, is 3gb @ 667 better than 2 @ 800?

Any help would be appreciated










You could have a bad stick of memory.
Try putting only your new sticks in; if it won't post, one or both of your new sticks are bad. If it doesn't post, try one of the sticks, if it posts, try the other, and if it doesn't post that's your bad stick. (hope that made sense)


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Make sure you timings are set to 4-4-4-15 *2T*<== 1T timings = impossible with 4 sticks.
Also run your ram voltage a bit higher, you can go over 2.1V, OCZ warranties 2.1V +/- 10% (your safe up to 2.2v basically, and won't void the warranty at all)

You sure about that?








I have 4 sticks Corsair XMS2 DDR2 667 @ 700 4:4:4:9:1T @ 1.92v.

Except if you are talking about 1T impossible with faster speed memory.


----------



## The Pook

Got my P5N-E back from RMA ... and it works ... but it came with a SB cooler. I heard the rumor a while ago that they were putting them on now, but I got one.









It's sexy.


----------



## Christiaan

Nice pook.
Let's see you clock that E2140.









I'm still going to get the Q6600. Soon, real soon.








I'm saving for a 8800GTS 640MB now, so the quad will have to take a backseat for now.


----------



## Gauvenator

Anyone who has an AC Freezer Pro 7, what exactly did you have to adjust to make it fit? Can you give me some pictures?


----------



## Christiaan

Second post at beginning of thread.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


*Compatible CPU Heatsinks (Guranteed fitment with stock NB heatsink, not with aftermarket NB HS!)*
*Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro *(Requires slight trimming of plastic on NB side of fan, w/ stock P5N-E NB heatsink)
*Zalman 9500 *
*Tuniq Tower 120 *(Tight fit, be careful of bending/breaking capacitors)
*Ultra-90*
*Ultra-120*
*Noctua NH-U12*
*ThermalTake Silent Tower *(Fan must be directed up towards the PSU)
*Thermalright SI-128*


----------



## Gauvenator

Does that mean to trim the part I have circled in attached image?


----------



## Brogs

hi im new...im on budget so im thinking intel 4300. 2 gb cosair xms 6400 ram, psne-sli mobo, ...i already have zalman 9500 and gts 640 mb graphics card......what do you guys think...i m running amd 64 3200 oc to 3800 now...but need more cpu help for this card....not newbie but not expert by long shot lol....thanks brogs


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Does that mean to trim the part I have circled in attached image?


I do believe so. The piece of metal on the NB heatsink that says Asus on it, hits that. So either bend/cut that away or that plastic corner from the fan.

@Brogs: I think that CPU will do just fine if you overclock it.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dailytoker* 
Hey guys, hope you don't mind if I que in...

I just acquired another 2gb (2x1gb) sticks of ram that match my existing 2gb (2x1gb). I throw them in under 32bit XP and it won't boot. So i do my quick research and find out 32bit systems only have 4gb of memory management available at any given time... and since my video card has 768mb... i had to take one out.

So i take one out and run it... it runs good. it boots. it plays games.

I have a copy of Vista Ultimate that was acquired as well, as i'm going to install it i notice it says "this disc contains 64bit software only"... damn, 64 bit. should I rock it? I weight the pro's vs con's and decided i only use the computer for gaming and my mac laptop for everything else... why not?

So i install it under w/ 2gb installed (since i get a bsod w/ 3gigs, and have read vista is tricky when installing over 2gb). so it installs fine. i start loading drivers, it's fine. i put in 4gb, the system won't POST. I take one out to have 3, it runs. sweet... install all drivers, updates, etc... run a game, bwernt... BSOD.

restart

BSOD.

run it w/ 2gb, it works... but things aren't working right. i spend about 2 hours or so working on it and finally give up.

i'm back under xp pro now... running 3gb.. and i'm getting random errors. this is my mem info...

timing, 4-4-4-15
speed, 800mhz
voltage, 2.013

i tried running it w/ higher voltage, the 2.08 (2.1v is max recommended) and i get bsod memory errors. the last one i got was "memory_management", but the others were the normal irq_less_or_greater_than, and there was one other that i forget. oh, and i got a memory dump in there too.

anyways, now that i'm under xp again, and i want to run 3gb... are there any suggestions?

do i need to lower the speed to 667? and if so, is 3gb @ 667 better than 2 @ 800?

Any help would be appreciated









my OCZ platinum rev2's didn't work in my first P5N-E at all. I was incredibly unstable at stock settings, I kept trying to get the damn thing working, and eventually the RAM killed two of the DIMMs on the board. RMA'd the board and returned the RAM, and got my current corsairs. So what I'm saying is it's possible your RAM and the board aren't 100% compatible....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ned* 
Well, I am looking pretty stable. I ran the "Small FFTs - stress CPU" when I went to work and I just stopped it. It ran for 11 hours 4 minutes and 30 seconds. 41/41 rounds 0 errors, 0 warnings.

I had the ac in the room on 72 F and the liquid cool on high. It is not that loud by the way, I think what was loud was the cheap gpu cooler that I have since took out.
When I stopped the test I was 42 C on the MB and 61 C on the CPU.
I picked up a cheap 120mm fan for the case top at lunch today. Mad dog 60 cfm 24 dba. It was $10.99 at circuit city, if it is no good I will get a better one at new egg but I wanted to get something for the weekend.

You probably don't want to let your chip get much hotter than that. What's your OC at? The 120mm top exhaust should help, but I'd highly recommend a side panel intake fan...and 60 CFM is fairly low for 120mm...my panaflo's on my CPU cooler are 117.5 CFM









Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Got my P5N-E back from RMA ... and it works ... but it came with a SB cooler. I heard the rumor a while ago that they were putting them on now, but I got one.









It's sexy.

nice one pook. my 2nd RMA (4th board overall) worked too...I think the guy I talked to wasn't lying when he said they'd done a 'major review' of their QC dept and 'hired a bunch of new people.' I took that to mean they did some firing too









I seem to be stable at 425x8=3.4GHz. Vcore is kinda high (1.5875), but I get orthos errors if it's not. The vdroop is HORRIBLE though...speedfan is reporting 1.47 under load...so >0.11V droop









temps are acceptable, but I can't really go higher. Cores are peaking at 63C, and nothing I've ever done stresses them as much as orthos does. I've also intentionally left the AC off, so ambients are about as high they'll ever get.

I did some FSB OCing to see how high I could get...and I can get it into windows at 440 with 6x multi and LDT at 1x. Everything above that won't post, even with insane vcore (I didn't go over 1.625 though). And 440 won't go stable even at 1.625vcore. 437.5 was fine for two hours of orthos though...but with the multi at 8x it's not stable even at 1.625. So I've settled for 425, which seems to be good.

Next on the agenda is pushing the RAM clock up to hit 1:1 divider, and then I'll try to tweak the RAM timings best I can.


----------



## The Pook

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Nice pook.
Let's see you clock that E2140.









I'm still going to get the Q6600. Soon, real soon.








I'm saving for a 8800GTS 640MB now, so the quad will have to take a backseat for now.

I can't. Ballistix is dead. D:

BSOD on install, can't pass MemTest. This 512MB stick of Kingston works fine, though. Crucial is going on their 4th RMA trip Monday, and it took 5 from Asus to get a working motherboard.

Do RMAs hate me?









Anywho, I'll be OCing it later tonight, but it'll be with the Kingston.


----------



## Christiaan

Ah well. It will be some fun at least. I almost bought the cheapest E21xx here locally just to try it out. I'm sure it would own my PD. :/


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dailytoker*


Hey guys, hope you don't mind if I que in...

I just acquired another 2gb (2x1gb) sticks of ram that match my existing 2gb (2x1gb). I throw them in under 32bit XP and it won't boot. So i do my quick research and find out 32bit systems only have 4gb of memory management available at any given time... and since my video card has 768mb... i had to take one out.

So i take one out and run it... it runs good. it boots. it plays games.

I have a copy of Vista Ultimate that was acquired as well, as i'm going to install it i notice it says "this disc contains 64bit software only"... damn, 64 bit. should I rock it? I weight the pro's vs con's and decided i only use the computer for gaming and my mac laptop for everything else... why not?

So i install it under w/ 2gb installed (since i get a bsod w/ 3gigs, and have read vista is tricky when installing over 2gb). so it installs fine. i start loading drivers, it's fine. i put in 4gb, the system won't POST. I take one out to have 3, it runs. sweet... install all drivers, updates, etc... run a game, bwernt... BSOD.

restart

BSOD.

run it w/ 2gb, it works... but things aren't working right. i spend about 2 hours or so working on it and finally give up.

i'm back under xp pro now... running 3gb.. and i'm getting random errors. this is my mem info...

timing, 4-4-4-15
speed, 800mhz
voltage, 2.013

i tried running it w/ higher voltage, the 2.08 (2.1v is max recommended) and i get bsod memory errors. the last one i got was "memory_management", but the others were the normal irq_less_or_greater_than, and there was one other that i forget. oh, and i got a memory dump in there too.

anyways, now that i'm under xp again, and i want to run 3gb... are there any suggestions?

do i need to lower the speed to 667? and if so, is 3gb @ 667 better than 2 @ 800?

Any help would be appreciated










*hey ! try 5-5-5-15-2T and over 2Volts !!!! i will post !!!!







*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Ah well. It will be some fun at least. I almost bought the cheapest E21xx here locally just to try it out. I'm sure it would own my PD. :/


please go and try E2160 !!! it's a beast !!! i OC to 3.2Ghz at Vcore1.4V !!!


----------



## cscheat

*Hey guys ! wanna ask some question regarding the coolers !!! *
1. Im thinking of getting 1 ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme next week but i worry it won't fit !! Anyone have some idea & advice for me ?
2. My MB temp is higher than the CPU temp ! still donno why ! idle = 45C load = 55C
should i get a cooler for the NB? but if i installed the ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme, what cooler should fit in then? (worry of space problem)


----------



## The Pook

This P5N I just got back has horrible vdroop, and it seems that the vdroop fix doesn't work on this board for some reason.









I'll work on it later tonight, but it just wouldn't boot, until I completely took it off. That sucks. D:


----------



## cscheat

what is vdrop ???


----------



## The Pook

vdroop is the difference of the set vCore and the actual vCore. (Read by a multimeter).

I set it as 1.45v in the BIOS, and I get 1.38v at idle, and 1.35v under load.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
*Hey guys ! wanna ask some question regarding the coolers !!!*
1. Im thinking of getting 1 ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme next week but i worry it won't fit !! Anyone have some idea & advice for me ?
2. My MB temp is higher than the CPU temp ! still donno why ! idle = 45C load = 55C
should i get a cooler for the NB? but if i installed the ThermalRight Ultra 120 Extreme, what cooler should fit in then? (worry of space problem)

it'll fit as long as you have 6.3" of clearance between the CPU socket and the side of your case. if you can spend the money, the Thermaltake extreme spirit II is a great NB cooler (all copper with a heatpipe) that fits with the ultra-120 extreme. if you wanna go cheap on the NB just take the thing off and replace the stock thermal paste with AS5.


----------



## LeeVing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Does that mean to trim the part I have circled in attached image?



where I timmed in black.









took a bit of trial and error, and testing. But you'll see where it needs it once you start.


----------



## dailytoker

5-5-5-15?

and yes, i'm running it at 2T... i'll try swapping out the new w/ the old and see if anything changes. as of right now i'm running 3gb, and games keep randomly shutting down or erroring (notably, steam games, and DiRT).


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


it'll fit as long as you have 6.3" of clearance between the CPU socket and the side of your case. if you can spend the money, the Thermaltake extreme spirit II is a great NB cooler (all copper with a heatpipe) that fits with the ultra-120 extreme. if you wanna go cheap on the NB just take the thing off and replace the stock thermal paste with AS5.


hey TriBeCa !!!

may i know your system temperature for reference?
1. CPU idle/load
2. MB idle/load
3. GPU idle/load

Thanks !


----------



## Gillos

"My computer won't boot..."








"Nothing, it just turns on all the fans, and then the screen is black, I can't do anything"








"Anyone seen this before?"

.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dailytoker*


5-5-5-15?

and yes, i'm running it at 2T... i'll try swapping out the new w/ the old and see if anything changes. as of right now i'm running 3gb, and games keep randomly shutting down or erroring (notably, steam games, and DiRT).


it really sounds to me like your RAM and the board aren't playing nice with each other...but I'm biased in that direction given that a pair of OCZ rev 2 platinums killed my first board. are you able to return your RAM and replace it with 4 sticks of something else?

as a last ditch thing...you may have to tighten your timings over 5-5-5-15. what're the stock timings for those chips? i'd say go with stock, w/e it is.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


hey TriBeCa !!!

may i know your system temperature for reference?
1. CPU idle/load
2. MB idle/load
3. GPU idle/load

Thanks !


Keep in mind my ambients are quite high--roughly 28C.

e6400 @ 266 x 8 = 2.13GHz (1.35 vcore)
CPU: 30C idle / 36C load
MB: can't recall, sorry
GPU: haven't checked

e6400 @ 425 x 8 = 3.4GHz (1.575 vcore)
CPU: 45C idle / 62C load (orthos, small FFTs)
MB: can't recall idle / 44C load
GPU: haven't checked

what software should I use to check GPU temps? I've never bothered looking because the cooling on the XFX 8800GTS is so intense looking.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gillos*









"My computer won't boot..."








"Nothing, it just turns on all the fans, and then the screen is black, I can't do anything"








"Anyone seen this before?"

.


sounds like you've either shorted the board somewhere or the board or PSU is dead. did you do anything that precipitated this? is it a new system? did it just happen suddenly to a working system? where you trying to oc it and it did this (in which case you just need to clear the cmos)?


----------



## dailytoker

the stock timing for the ram is 4-4-4-15, 1.9-2.1v.

I have it at 4-4-4-15, 2.018v.

I'm pretty noob when it comes to this timing stuff. if I go 5-5-5-15, will i notice a big difference in performance?

and no, i can't return the ram. two sticks were purchased back in march, these other two were bought for me for doing a website. I'd have to ship back to him, then he'd have to ship back to newegg :X maybe i can just save them for another computer build in the future.


----------



## Blizzie

So what in the world happened to dpawl and updating his list of compatible components?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dailytoker* 
the stock timing for the ram is 4-4-4-15, 1.9-2.1v.

I have it at 4-4-4-15, 2.018v.

I'm pretty noob when it comes to this timing stuff. if I go 5-5-5-15, will i notice a big difference in performance?

and no, i can't return the ram. two sticks were purchased back in march, these other two were bought for me for doing a website. I'd have to ship back to him, then he'd have to ship back to newegg :X maybe i can just save them for another computer build in the future.

keep it at 4-4-4-15. 5-5-5-15 will reduce your bandwidth by a small amount. if you can get your system stable then you can think about fiddling with timings. I'm 4 hours into an orthos test, stable at 4-3-3-1









I'd say you should tryin pushing vdimm up to the >2.2V setting and see if that helps with stability.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
So what in the world happened to dpawl and updating his list of compatible components?

noooo idea.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


So what in the world happened to dpawl and updating his list of compatible components?


Not sure, someone should msg him and ask.

I'm happy, yesterday I finally put all the shiny objects onto my MB







Got a BT from mootsfox, two HR-05-SLI's for the NB/SB, and a VF900-CU for my 8600gts, as well as a new Corsair 620hx PSU.

Overall I'm happy as can be.
CPU (3.00ghz / 1.325v)
Idle 30 --> 23
Loaded 55-->43
(Just noticed, I opened my window and loaded temps dropped to 37C)
MB Idle 41 --> 29
Loaded ? --> 32

GPU
Idle 61 --> 78
Loaded 41--> 55








Next weekend, vdroop mod, pencil mod the 8600, and see how fast this 6400 will go









Edit: And this is with horrible cable management atm vs. perfect / no cables before (friends came over so I had to throw it together really fast, I'll fix it another day)


----------



## dailytoker

if i push it over 2.2v, where should i think about stopping in-case i don't find a stable setting?

another question i have is, if i'm running w/ 3x1gb sticks, does that take the ram out of dual channel? or does it run the two in dual channel, and the other as a tag along?

for right now i just took the ram out of the computer, bceause i'm tired of the game crashing and bsod on me while playing tfc2


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dailytoker* 
if i push it over 2.2v, where should i think about stopping in-case i don't find a stable setting?

another question i have is, if i'm running w/ 3x1gb sticks, does that take the ram out of dual channel? or does it run the two in dual channel, and the other as a tag along?

for right now i just took the ram out of the computer, bceause i'm tired of the game crashing and bsod on me while playing tfc2









one approach is to push the vdimm as high as you're comfortable with and then OC as far as you can go while still getting into windows. once there, run orthos. if you hit an error, take the clock down a notch and try again. keep going until you hit something stable.

that's what i'm doing right now. testing 1062.5MHz @ 5-5-5-15-2T...42 minutes in. if it's stable i'll try to tighten those timings. once I tighten the timings as far as I can, i'll compare benchmarks to my previously stable 850MHz @ 4-3-3-1-2T (same vdimm). If it's ~same or worse, I'll probably take the clock down to 1000MHz, tighten up, and see how that performs


----------



## Christiaan

I talked to dpawl a looong time ago. 2 months or so. He said he is on Linux now and XFire doesn't work on there, but why he isn't on OCN. No idea. Holiday maybe?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I talked to dpawl a looong time ago. 2 months or so. He said he is on Linux now and XFire doesn't work on there, but why he isn't on OCN. No idea. Holiday maybe?


I guess the list will never get updated.. for a long long time.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


it really sounds to me like your RAM and the board aren't playing nice with each other...but I'm biased in that direction given that a pair of OCZ rev 2 platinums killed my first board. are you able to return your RAM and replace it with 4 sticks of something else?

as a last ditch thing...you may have to tighten your timings over 5-5-5-15. what're the stock timings for those chips? i'd say go with stock, w/e it is.

Keep in mind my ambients are quite high--roughly 28C.

e6400 @ 266 x 8 = 2.13GHz (1.35 vcore)
CPU: 30C idle / 36C load
MB: can't recall, sorry
GPU: haven't checked

e6400 @ 425 x 8 = 3.4GHz (1.475 vcore)
CPU: 45C idle / 62C load (orthos, small FFTs)
MB: can't recall idle / 44C load
GPU: haven't checked

what software should I use to check GPU temps? I've never bothered looking because the cooling on the XFX 8800GTS is so intense looking.


Thanks for the reference ! you can check GPU temp using the following
1. Nvidia Ntune
2. RivaTuner
3. Everest Ultimate Edition


----------



## ra2shadow

Sorry for the stupid post but the feel like telling the world.......got card through the dor on saturday......my ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i is waiting at the post office for pick up tomorrow. oh how much im looking forward to tomorrow night....


----------



## cscheat

why not ? Welcome Aboard !


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Keep in mind my ambients are quite high--roughly 28C.

e6400 @ 266 x 8 = 2.13GHz (1.35 vcore)
CPU: 30C idle / 36C load
MB: can't recall, sorry
GPU: haven't checked

e6400 @ 425 x 8 = 3.4GHz (1.475 vcore)
CPU: 45C idle / 62C load (orthos, small FFTs)
MB: can't recall idle / 44C load
GPU: haven't checked

what software should I use to check GPU temps? I've never bothered looking because the cooling on the XFX 8800GTS is so intense looking.

oops...that should be 1.575 vcore, not 1.475


----------



## Ned

Hi, I went to speed fans website and was surprised to see that our MB is not listed as having a configuration available to download. Anyone have a nice speedfan config they want to upload to speedfan?

http://www.almico.com/sfhandleconfig.php


----------



## ra2shadow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ra2shadow* 
Sorry for the stupid post but the feel like telling the world.......got card through the dor on saturday......my ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i is waiting at the post office for pick up tomorrow. oh how much im looking forward to tomorrow night....










Oh my god.......up at 6.30 this morning.....out to the post office pick up depot, its a bank holiday......not getting board till tomorrow and im back at work







. Suddenly i dont feel so well, I see a sickie in my near future.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ned*


Hi, I went to speed fans website and was surprised to see that our MB is not listed as having a configuration available to download. Anyone have a nice speedfan config they want to upload to speedfan?

http://www.almico.com/sfhandleconfig.php


I tried once, but don't know how to edit the stuff. :/

Something weird guys. I went into my BIOS/CMOS (for the guys moaning about us saying BIOS) and I couldn't load any OC profiles. It says none found. I save it, and then try and load the one I just saved and it says it can't find it. I didn't update the BIOS or anything.

What's going on? :/


----------



## TriBeCa

had that happen to me once, after a bad OC that required resetting the BIOS with jumper+battery. for some reason, just that one time it lost the OC profiles as well.

that's why it's best to save them to a flash drive....


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ned* 
Hi, I went to speed fans website and was surprised to see that our MB is not listed as having a configuration available to download. Anyone have a nice speedfan config they want to upload to speedfan?

http://www.almico.com/sfhandleconfig.php

Hey Ned, i found this

It is a great program to monitor temps ,voltages, and fan control

To Configure the Program
Just compare temps to ASUS Probe
Click on configure and select the temperature tab if you click on a temp selection and press F2 you can rename it to anything you want CPU, MB core 1 core 2 HD 1
next go to the fan tab and do the same thing fan1 click press f2 and rename it front fan and so on.
go to the speed tab and check the fans you want to control and set the min and max value and check the Auto variated
Select the Advance Tab click the drop down arrow and select the lT8712F at $290 on ISA
This is a little tricky and may vary with different fans and cases. Most import is if you make changes here that work, make sure you check, remember this check box on the bottom for each selection

*Temperture sensor diode 1 Themister
Temperture sensor diode 2 Themister
Temperture sensor diode 3 Themister
FAN1 divisor 8
FAN2 divisor 2
FAN3 divisor 2
PWM 1- 5 Software controlled
PWMOUT 3M
Temperture offset 1 -3 0
Fan1 mult 1
Fan1 div 1
Fan2 mult 1
Fan2 div 2
Fan3 mult 1
Fan4 div 2
Revere PWM 01 - 05 all off* click ok
check automatic fan speed on the main page
and your pretty much done
You have to disable Q fan and Q chassis fan for this to work properly in the bios under hardware monitor
Pressing F1 while in the program brings up the help file for more options

Tip! Use the events tab to set alarms for Voltage drops or spikes and warnings for high CPU, MB and HD temps

Latest version is 4.33
http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php


----------



## Christiaan

Thanks cscheat!

You have no idea how long I've been looking at how to change those! F2, I would have never guessed.


----------



## Ned

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Thanks cscheat!

You have no idea how long I've been looking at how to change those! F2, I would have never guessed.











Me too!
This morning I had speedfan open at the same time as Asus Probe and I was trying to do as cscheat said and use that to figure out which was which. I couldn't figure out how to change the labels though and as I was looking at the tabs I found the one to download a configuration and figured there must be one for this popular mb. Ironic that trying to find a configuration got the answer to what I was originally trying to find, that F2 allows you to relabel.

What is a recomended high temp for the alarms ?
Asus Probe seems pretty low on their alarm temps.


----------



## cscheat

*Hey guys !!!

i wanna ask which Bios is the best for our lovely Motherboard ? *1. 0401
2. 0505
3. 0608
4. 0703

*Please advice !!!*


----------



## TriBeCa

of those listed I _think_ people have reported the most success with 0608. but i'm not 100% on that, that's just my impression from seeing what people are using.


----------



## Ravin

Ok...here goes.








So after installing the Q6600 and dealing with the 7600gt death, I began having problems with hard drive corruption. First hal.dll, then nvatabus.sys, and finally failure for anything beyond the BIOS screen. This could be 1) impending HDD failure, 2)bad RAM, or 3)unknown hardware conflict.

RAM-Ballistix PC2/8000 Age:3mo, HDDs-2x WD800JD Caviar(se) Raid0 Age:2yr

I was leaning toward HDD failure due to a "click" occasionally heard from the HDD array. To eliminate the possibility of RAM failure memtest86 was ran continually for ~16hours without errors (4-3-3-6, 2T 1066MHz @ 2.17V).

I began to install seatools and during the process I got a reboot. At this point experience told me that perhaps some component may not be getting enough power. Into the BIOS and I found that the chipset voltage was set to AUTO- which I changed to 1.3xxV. After changing the chipset voltages the HDD "click" has not been heard, seatools installed, and disk diagnostic tools report no errors.









Could it be that the chipset voltage on AUTO was insufficient to read/write to HDD on the 1066 bus, and that as diagnostics report both my RAM and HDDs are fine? Is this an appropriate voltage for my chipset on the 1066bus?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


of those listed I _think_ people have reported the most success with 0608. but i'm not 100% on that, that's just my impression from seeing what people are using.


0608 reports the Q6600 G0 as a 600MHz CPU. I had to flash to 0703.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Ok...here goes.








So after installing the Q6600 and dealing with the 7600gt death, I began having problems with hard drive corruption. First hal.dll, then nvatabus.sys, and finally failure for anything beyond the BIOS screen. This could be 1) impending HDD failure, 2)bad RAM, or 3)unknown hardware conflict.

RAM-Ballistix PC2/8000 Age:3mo, HDDs-2x WD800JD Caviar(se) Raid0 Age:2yr

I was leaning toward HDD failure due to a "click" occasionally heard from the HDD array. To eliminate the possibility of RAM failure memtest86 was ran continually for ~16hours without errors (4-3-3-6, 2T 1066MHz @ 2.17V).

I began to install seatools and during the process I got a reboot. At this point experience told me that perhaps some component may not be getting enough power. Into the BIOS and I found that the chipset voltage was set to AUTO- which I changed to 1.3xxV. After changing the chipset voltages the HDD "click" has not been heard, seatools installed, and disk diagnostic tools report no errors.









Could it be that the chipset voltage on AUTO was insufficient to read/write to HDD on the 1066 bus, and that as diagnostics report both my RAM and HDDs are fine? Is this an appropriate voltage for my chipset on the 1066bus?


Generally speaking. Never let the motherboard choose the voltage with "auto". Always set the voltages manually.









I suppose it is possible the chipset didn't get enough power. As I've seen some of the guys pump 1.5v or higher for their overclocks. I'm of course on the minimum setting with my super fast 175MHz FSB.


----------



## U-Dubominator

quick question if i may...

what is a safe motherboard temp for this mobo? i still am using stock NB HSF and no aftermarket cooler/HSF for southbridge. (basically a stock P5N-E SLI)

i have vNB at 1.3xx and mobo goes to 45c under load. is a safe mobo temp up to like 50c?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Ok...here goes.








So after installing the Q6600 and dealing with the 7600gt death, I began having problems with hard drive corruption. First hal.dll, then nvatabus.sys, and finally failure for anything beyond the BIOS screen. This could be 1) impending HDD failure, 2)bad RAM, or 3)unknown hardware conflict.

RAM-Ballistix PC2/8000 Age:3mo, HDDs-2x WD800JD Caviar(se) Raid0 Age:2yr

I was leaning toward HDD failure due to a "click" occasionally heard from the HDD array. To eliminate the possibility of RAM failure memtest86 was ran continually for ~16hours without errors (4-3-3-6, 2T 1066MHz @ 2.17V).

I began to install seatools and during the process I got a reboot. At this point experience told me that perhaps some component may not be getting enough power. Into the BIOS and I found that the chipset voltage was set to AUTO- which I changed to 1.3xxV. After changing the chipset voltages the HDD "click" has not been heard, seatools installed, and disk diagnostic tools report no errors.









Could it be that the chipset voltage on AUTO was insufficient to read/write to HDD on the 1066 bus, and that as diagnostics report both my RAM and HDDs are fine? Is this an appropriate voltage for my chipset on the 1066bus?


What's the CPU FSB? I don't know about quads, but on my e6400 I've always had to push over 1.5V for ~362.5, and 1.75V for >387.5. It could definately be an undervolted NB...try the 1.5V setting....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *U-Dubominator*


quick question if i may...

what is a safe motherboard temp for this mobo? i still am using stock NB HSF and no aftermarket cooler/HSF for southbridge. (basically a stock P5N-E SLI)

i have vNB at 1.3xx and mobo goes to 45c under load. is a safe mobo temp up to like 50c?


Good question...I'm not sure anyone really knows. I suspect 45C would be fine, but you should be able to get much better temps (~5C) just by reseating the NB HS with AS5. The stock stuff ASUS uses is really, really crappy.


----------



## ra2shadow

Quote:



Sorry for the stupid post but the feel like telling the world.......got card through the dor on saturday......my ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i is waiting at the post office for pick up tomorrow. oh how much im looking forward to tomorrow night....



Quote:



Oh my god.......up at 6.30 this morning.....out to the post office pick up depot, its a bank holiday......not getting board till tomorrow and im back at work . Suddenly i dont feel so well, I see a sickie in my near future


I posted both of these comments and lo and behold i got to the post office to day, it was open i was like a kid in a sweet shop, got the package home opened it and what was staring back at me .....a MSI p6n sli !!!!. What did i do in a previous life to deserve this.... i know nothing about this board as i have been boning up on the p5n..... i should by rights send is back and get the p5n i ordered, but im not going to, i ordered another p5n and im going to keep this board to play with in the mean time.....have to say it looks good but i havent read anything about it yet just had a quick glace at the bios. Ah well the waiting is not over.....pah dang grrr
.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *U-Dubominator*


quick question if i may...

what is a safe motherboard temp for this mobo? i still am using stock NB HSF and no aftermarket cooler/HSF for southbridge. (basically a stock P5N-E SLI)

i have vNB at 1.3xx and mobo goes to 45c under load. is a safe mobo temp up to like 50c?


That seems a little high to me. I am also on the lowest voltage setting. I don't know what mine is under load, but idle now I'm sitting on 33 degrees, case temp is 29 and it's 26 in my room.

It's only re-seated with AS5.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
That seems a little high to me. I am also on the lowest voltage setting. I don't know what mine is under load, but idle now I'm sitting on 33 degrees, case temp is 29 and it's 26 in my room.

It's only re-seated with AS5.

Not sure what its supposed to be, according to PC-probe mines, 30CC, loaded it doesn't hit 40C


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
What's the CPU FSB? I don't know about quads, but on my e6400 I've always had to push over 1.5V for ~362.5, and 1.75V for >387.5. It could definately be an undervolted NB...try the 1.5V setting....
.

I'm still running stock @ 266. I have yet to get stability on stock CPU w/1:1 ram on tightened timings. I left my rig running 1.3V on the chipset this morning set to download updated for XP and antivirus while I'm working. Hopefully when I get home this afternoon I'll have all the software updates in and can start stability testing again.


----------



## U-Dubominator

Asus PC probe is horrible at reading temps. according to pc probe my cpu idles at 34 and loads at 37. It shows the mobo temps as 40c under load. 
SpeedFan and Coretemp are the correct values showing idle at 30 and load at 54. BIOS agrees as well. The mobo temp on SpeedFan is what I have to go off of as it agrees w/ the BIOS as well (34c idle, 45c load).


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *U-Dubominator* 
Asus PC probe is horrible at reading temps. according to pc probe my cpu idles at 34 and loads at 37. It shows the mobo temps as 40c under load.
SpeedFan and Coretemp are the correct values showing idle at 30 and load at 54. BIOS agrees as well. The mobo temp on SpeedFan is what I have to go off of as it agrees w/ the BIOS as well (34c idle, 45c load).

Remember pc probe shows the 'CPU temperature' while Speedfan and Coretemp show the 'core temperatures'


----------



## TriBeCa

so here's an update on my OCing:

for those who haven't been following, I had a stable OC @ 400 x 8 = 3.2GHz, 1:1 FSB:RAM @ 4-4-4-12-1T. 1.45 vcore, 1.75 vNB, 2.1 vdimm. load temps (under normal the most intensive normal usage) were around 60C. ambient temps went up in the summer, and it became unstable.

replaced all the cooling in my system with what you see here, and went to start trying to push the OC up. first thing I did was a BIOS flash which went bad and FUBAR'd my board. RMA'd, got a DOA board, 2nd RMA came a little over a week ago.

first, I got stable (8 hours orthos on small FFTs) @ 425 FSB. 1.575 vcore (max load under orths 62C), 1.75 vNB. then I started tweaking RAM...couldn't get 1T no matter what I did (even when I tried, briefly, 2.4 vdimm). got a stable OC at 1:1 FSB RAM @ 4-3-3-1-2T, 2.35 vdimm. this was stable after 9 hours of large, in-place FFTs (RAM stress). I also got it stable with RAM at 1062 MHz @ 5-4-4-7-2T, 2.35 vdimm, which produced almost exactly the same benchmarks (timings matter!).

ran some benchmarks. everything had gone up, except my PCmark05 score went _down_ by like 20%. started a thread about it, and after comparing my individual test scores to chozarts it was clear there was a specific problem with the two 2D graphics rendering tests. he suggested a windows reinstall because it was a new board (even though the same make and model). did it, re-benched the OC, and my scores were good (up from the OC I had on my last board, no problem with 2D graphics).

ran orthos again on my OC and got a random reboot. tried the other OC, same thing. tried setting RAM back to stock, same thing. ran orthos for 9 hours at stock, and no problem. I've decided it's probably due to the crazy high vNB (although I had no problem on my last board!). so now I'm gonna try to find my max stable CPU FSB @ stock ram and 1.5 vNB, which is what I'm working on. will report back when I hit it.

incidentally, there definately appears to be an FSB hole with this board. I needed 1.75 vNB to get from 387.5 to 400 FSB on this board and on my last one. just now, i tried booting at 400 FSB with 1.5 vNB and got a system hang when I tried to log in to my user in XP. 412.5 FSB @ 1.5 vNB got into windows fine, and has passed 30 minutes of orthos now. I'm gonna see what other FSB's that I was able to get into with 1.75 vNB and 6x multi I can get into with 1.5 vNB and stability test the highest one. if it's not stable, I'll knock it down until I can reach 8 hours of stability with one of them. then I'll go back to OCing the RAM....


----------



## LeeVing

it seems we may need a separate thread here to deal with quad core, as most here have Dual core. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of luck getting these stable on this board.


----------



## ihasflavor

Damn this is a big thread! Anyway, I'm getting a really good deal for this motherboard along with a E6550 proc. What i want to know is the e6550 supported? I remember reading that this board doesn't support 1333Mhz FSB. Will that hamper things too much? The rest of my config will stay the same ( see below ). Any advice?

Also which revision should i be looking for?


----------



## Christiaan

The board does support 1333FSB. Just update your BIOS, it should probably already be updated if you're buying it new.

No idea about what revision.


----------



## hometoast

Ok. So I've searched everywhere and I still can't seem to find someone with the exact situation as me.

I bought the p5n-e sli, e6750, and Corsair ballistix 2GB kit.
(along w/ WD 320GB sata, and MSI 8600 gts pci-e 256 mb vid)

Installed everything, left it all auto (the corsair in the yellow slots) and ran into tons of problems. memtest failed the memory with a 0% success rate. So I switched slots to the black. This time memtest passes the ram (after 10 hours or so). But windows still won't boot into anything but safe mode.

So I replaced the mobo. I get the same problems.
So I tried setting the timings to 5-5-5-18 and made sure the voltage was at 2.1 and I got the same results.
So I've RMA'd the CPU and memory (just because I want to cover bases.)

In the mean time, I've purchased 2GB of patriot ddr2-800. I figured the worst case is that it will work, and I'd refund on the corsair. Or best case, I could use all 4 sticks.

Now I can't find anyone whose successfully run 4 sticks in this board.

Am I screwed? Should I refund the whole thing and get the Abit IP35 (less apparent problems according to forum searches)?
I can't remember if I did or didn't try the 2T setting on the ram.

So I've realized I've rambled... here's my breakdown:
1. Anyone ever get 4 sticks running on this? What'd you have to do?
2. Anyone thing the Egg will refund minus the 15% restock because I'm done with replace attempts. And they say they don't cross-ship... sigh.

--edit
and yeah.. I tested each stick separately and paired in each slot combination.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LeeVing*


it seems we may need a separate thread here to deal with quad core, as most here have Dual core. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of luck getting these stable on this board.


Agreed. I even had problems getting stock to run stable at first- seems that my problem was chipset voltage. Looks like I've got all my ducks in a row for running baseline benches at stock now, I have passed all of the most common benchmark tests and have been SMP folding for about 18 hours.

I'm not too confident that the 650i can really push the quads to the max from what I've heard. I don't have a definitive explanation as to why, although I speculate it may have something to do with the voltage regulators/mosfet. There is a hell of a lot of cache to supply with clean voltage on the quads. We may just have to jump ship when the new nVidia chipsets are released.

Keep me posted with your progress and I'll do the same- that is once my 7600GT comes back from RMA. I suspect that quite a few more people will be buying quads now that the prices are dropping and odds are that at least some of them will have this board.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Ok. So I've searched everywhere and I still can't seem to find someone with the exact situation as me.

I bought the p5n-e sli, e6750, and Corsair ballistix 2GB kit.
(along w/ WD 320GB sata, and MSI 8600 gts pci-e 256 mb vid)

Installed everything, left it all auto (the corsair in the yellow slots) and ran into tons of problems. memtest failed the memory with a 0% success rate. So I switched slots to the black. This time memtest passes the ram (after 10 hours or so). But windows still won't boot into anything but safe mode.

So I replaced the mobo. I get the same problems.
So I tried setting the timings to 5-5-5-18 and made sure the voltage was at 2.1 and I got the same results.
So I've RMA'd the CPU and memory (just because I want to cover bases.)

In the mean time, I've purchased 2GB of patriot ddr2-800. I figured the worst case is that it will work, and I'd refund on the corsair. Or best case, I could use all 4 sticks.

Now I can't find anyone whose successfully run 4 sticks in this board.

Am I screwed? Should I refund the whole thing and get the Abit IP35 (less apparent problems according to forum searches)?
I can't remember if I did or didn't try the 2T setting on the ram.

So I've realized I've rambled... here's my breakdown:
1. Anyone ever get 4 sticks running on this? What'd you have to do?
2. Anyone thing the Egg will refund minus the 15% restock because I'm done with replace attempts. And they say they don't cross-ship... sigh.

--edit
and yeah.. I tested each stick separately and paired in each slot combination.



What BIOS are you using?


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


What BIOS are you using?


0608 - came on the board.. and was the latest from asus


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


0608 - came on the board.. and was the latest from asus


I had to update to 0703 b/c my CPU was recognized as 600MHz. After the update I started having similar problems- mostly HDD corruption and memory errors. Finally I changed the MCH voltage from AUTO to 1.3V and have not had a problem since.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
I had to update to 0703 b/c my CPU was recognized as 600MHz. .
..
Finally I changed the MCH voltage from AUTO to 1.3V and have not had a problem since.

I'll try upgrading to 0703 when I get my parts back.
And forgive me as I'm a completed newbie, but the MCH voltage is which?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Ok. So I've searched everywhere and I still can't seem to find someone with the exact situation as me.

I bought the p5n-e sli, e6750, and Corsair ballistix 2GB kit.
(along w/ WD 320GB sata, and MSI 8600 gts pci-e 256 mb vid)

Installed everything, left it all auto (the corsair in the yellow slots) and ran into tons of problems. memtest failed the memory with a 0% success rate. So I switched slots to the black. This time memtest passes the ram (after 10 hours or so). But windows still won't boot into anything but safe mode.

So I replaced the mobo. I get the same problems.
So I tried setting the timings to 5-5-5-18 and made sure the voltage was at 2.1 and I got the same results.
So I've RMA'd the CPU and memory (just because I want to cover bases.)

In the mean time, I've purchased 2GB of patriot ddr2-800. I figured the worst case is that it will work, and I'd refund on the corsair. Or best case, I could use all 4 sticks.

Now I can't find anyone whose successfully run 4 sticks in this board.

Am I screwed? Should I refund the whole thing and get the Abit IP35 (less apparent problems according to forum searches)?
I can't remember if I did or didn't try the 2T setting on the ram.

So I've realized I've rambled... here's my breakdown:
1. Anyone ever get 4 sticks running on this? What'd you have to do?
2. Anyone thing the Egg will refund minus the 15% restock because I'm done with replace attempts. And they say they don't cross-ship... sigh.

--edit
and yeah.. I tested each stick separately and paired in each slot combination.

I run 4 sticks Corsair XMS2 DDR2 667. 2x1GB and 2x512MB kits @ 700MHz @ 4:4:4:9:1T timings.









Not sure what's with the issues people have. Only problem I have ran into is my onboard LAN seems to have gone bonkers, PC hangs on shutdown screen. A PCI LAN card fixed it.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Ok. So I've searched everywhere and I still can't seem to find someone with the exact situation as me.

I bought the p5n-e sli, e6750, and Corsair ballistix 2GB kit.
(along w/ WD 320GB sata, and MSI 8600 gts pci-e 256 mb vid)

Installed everything, left it all auto (the corsair in the yellow slots) and ran into tons of problems. memtest failed the memory with a 0% success rate. So I switched slots to the black. This time memtest passes the ram (after 10 hours or so). But windows still won't boot into anything but safe mode.

So I replaced the mobo. I get the same problems.
So I tried setting the timings to 5-5-5-18 and made sure the voltage was at 2.1 and I got the same results.
So I've RMA'd the CPU and memory (just because I want to cover bases.)

In the mean time, I've purchased 2GB of patriot ddr2-800. I figured the worst case is that it will work, and I'd refund on the corsair. Or best case, I could use all 4 sticks.

Now I can't find anyone whose successfully run 4 sticks in this board.

Am I screwed? Should I refund the whole thing and get the Abit IP35 (less apparent problems according to forum searches)?
I can't remember if I did or didn't try the 2T setting on the ram.

So I've realized I've rambled... here's my breakdown:
1. Anyone ever get 4 sticks running on this? What'd you have to do?
2. Anyone thing the Egg will refund minus the 15% restock because I'm done with replace attempts. And they say they don't cross-ship... sigh.

--edit
and yeah.. I tested each stick separately and paired in each slot combination.


Try repairing Windows and then a reinstall if that doesn't work.

Is your computer stable in safemode?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I run 4 sticks Corsair XMS2 DDR2 667. 2x1GB and 2x512MB kits @ 700MHz @ 4:4:4:9:1T timings.









Not sure what's with the issues people have. Only problem I have ran into is my onboard LAN seems to have gone bonkers, PC hangs on shutdown screen. A PCI LAN card fixed it.



Glad you're having success with all slots occupied. Eventually I'll be adding another two sticks of my current RAM to my computer.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Try repairing Windows and then a reinstall if that doesn't work.
Is your computer stable in safemode?


this is a fresh install. So I was able to get through the installation (using nLite for the Sata drivers). But yeah, I can boot into safe mode with the crucial sticks in the black slots. I also could boot with a Gentoo/Ubuntu LiveCD.

Black slots - no memtest errors; boot into safe mode; bsod's (page_in_nonpaged_area, bad_pool_caller) in regular boot mode.
yellow slots - memtest errors; no boot whatsoever.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


this is a fresh install. So I was able to get through the installation (using nLite for the Sata drivers). But yeah, I can boot into safe mode with the crucial sticks in the black slots. I also could boot with a Gentoo/Ubuntu LiveCD.

Black slots - no memtest errors; boot into safe mode; bsod's (page_in_nonpaged_area, bad_pool_caller) in regular boot mode.
yellow slots - memtest errors; no boot whatsoever.










Are you running your RAM at 2T? If you aren't try it.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Glad you're having success with all slots occupied. Eventually I'll be adding another two sticks of my current RAM to my computer.


Yeah, it's just sometimes I can't believe the issues people get. I guess I am lucky to have minimal problems.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Yeah, it's just sometimes I can't believe the issues people get. I guess I am lucky to have minimal problems.










I guess more people come here about problems, not their success...I wonder how many people are having no problems whatsoever with this board?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I guess more people come here about problems, not their success...I wonder how many people are having no problems whatsoever?


*Raises hand*

I haven't had any problems yet, but I'm gonna vmod it soon and flash the bios eventually, but no problems as of now, had it for 5 months.


----------



## Gauvenator

Just got my AC Freezer Pro 7 installed!! It's a little cooler at max speed, but the AS5 needs to cure...It's nice and quiet at about 1600 rpm, and even at full speed it sounds nicer than the stock cooler...it doesn't buzz like it did.

I had to trim a little of the casing so it would fit with the massive NB heatsink. I couldn't get to a dremel so I trimmed it with a pocket knife, a steak knife, nailclippers, and smoothed it with a nailfile, lol.









Still have to see what the temps do under load...


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I guess more people come here about problems, not their success...I wonder how many people are having no problems whatsoever with this board?



Eh...It goes in cycles. I know that I've been having some trouble lately, but it is not as finiky as some boards I've had. That's just part of system building. Honestly, it's about what you can expect for a sub$140 board with great features in the spec. list.

Now that I'm on track here is a screenie of what I'm calling baseline. The CPU is at stock, and the RAM ocd w/tightened timings (PC2/8000 5-5-5-15 @ 1066MHz 4-3-3-6 2T @ 2.25V.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Eh...It goes in cycles. I know that I've been having some trouble lately, but it is not as finiky as some boards I've had. That's just part of system building. Honestly, it's about what you can expect for a sub$140 board with great features in the spec. list.

Now that I'm on track here is a screenie of what I'm calling baseline. The CPU is at stock, and the RAM ocd w/tightened timings (PC2/8000 5-5-5-15 @ 1066MHz 4-3-3-6 2T @ 2.25V.










I drool over your quad core...are you going to oc it?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 







I drool over your quad core...are you going to oc it?

Eventually....when my eVga 7600GT comes back from RMA. And I'm already drooling over Nehalem









Seriously, in retrospect I think a C2D would have been enough CPU, I just could not resist all that transistor real estate. Besides, I gotta get back ahead of the curve- I have been running SMP/Dual core forever, now it seems everyone has one. It's nice to be able to encode A/V in such a short time!


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
of those listed I _think_ people have reported the most success with 0608. but i'm not 100% on that, that's just my impression from seeing what people are using.

*
Will try to do the flashing tonight








im currently at 0401... heard so many people saying 0608 is the latest and best for our board !









wish me luck







*!


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I guess more people come here about problems, not their success...I wonder how many people are having no problems whatsoever with this board?


The dude asked if 4 RAM sticks work, so I answered. And I simply stated that I have no issues with this board, hence why I support this board, because it is so great.

I've been here a long time helping people with issues with the board and we do in fact discuss successes. This isn't a troubleshoot only thread for the board. We post our overclocks and so forth.


----------



## Praeses

Hello again folks!









Does anybody know the position of the "MB" sensor as displayed by PC Probe? My northbridge heatsink never got warm in general so today I removed it and applied some Arctic Silver...now the heatsink gets really hot so I added a 60mm fan to it. MB temps are still the same though















Could it possibly be my south bridge's temp? Would be silly if it is. But why else won't the temps drop? I mean the AS5 definitely worked since the heatsink never got this hot in the past....yet the load temps are the same.

Thanks

PS: do I maybe need a south bridge heatsink? If so I can get the Zalman ZM-NB47J. 
Note: My CPU is running at a 1333FSB so my temps are rather high and I want to OC the CPU. Load is at 48C for the NB.

PPS: I'm running Mushkin EM2 2 x 1GB CL5 kit in the black slots @ 4-5-4 850MHz T2 if DPawl31 wants to add it to the compatibility list







(had troubles in bioshock with it at T1)


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


The dude asked if 4 RAM sticks work, so I answered. And I simply stated that I have no issues with this board, hence why I support this board, because it is so great.

I've been here a long time helping people with issues with the board and we do in fact discuss successes. This isn't a troubleshoot only thread for the board. We post our overclocks and so forth.


sorry if I offended you

I'm still a n00b to this ginourmous thread


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
Hello again folks!









Does anybody know the position of the "MB" sensor as displayed by PC Probe?

No one is quite sure. Some speculate that it is between the PCI slots- I dont find any sensor physically located there. Others say that it is a mean or average between the NB and SB, again there is no hard evidence to support the claim.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
No one is quite sure. Some speculate that it is between the PCI slots- I dont find any sensor physically located there. Others say that it is a mean or average between the NB and SB, again there is no hard evidence to support the claim.

Someone should test it out, if you just take a small heat source (not big enough to wreck anything) and heat up various areas the sensor should react accordingly when you find it ... ... ... 'in theory'


----------



## Praeses

does using a SB heatsink decrease the temp of the sensor?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


does using a SB heatsink decrease the temp of the sensor?


What do you mean decrease temperature of sensor? Of course a heatsink will keep your southbridge cooler. So temperature -> go down.

Anyone know max temperature for the 650i NB chipset? Using a IR temperature sensor on the NB heatsink it gets up to 45 C under full load. But MB temperature reading is 37-40 C.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
Hello again folks!









Does anybody know the position of the "MB" sensor as displayed by PC Probe? My northbridge heatsink never got warm in general so today I removed it and applied some Arctic Silver...now the heatsink gets really hot so I added a 60mm fan to it. MB temps are still the same though















Could it possibly be my south bridge's temp? Would be silly if it is. But why else won't the temps drop? I mean the AS5 definitely worked since the heatsink never got this hot in the past....yet the load temps are the same.

Thanks

PS: do I maybe need a south bridge heatsink? If so I can get the Zalman ZM-NB47J.
Note: My CPU is running at a 1333FSB so my temps are rather high and I want to OC the CPU. Load is at 48C for the NB.

PPS: I'm running Mushkin EM2 2 x 1GB CL5 kit in the black slots @ 4-5-4 850MHz T2 if DPawl31 wants to add it to the compatibility list







(had troubles in bioshock with it at T1)


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
What do you mean decrease temperature of sensor? Of course a heatsink will keep your southbridge cooler. So temperature -> go down.

Anyone know max temperature for the 650i NB chipset? Using a IR temperature sensor on the NB heatsink it gets up to 45 C under full load. But MB temperature reading is 37-40 C.









Hey guys, my MB temperature is also quite high !!! around 45C idle and 55C load !!! i heard alot of heat issue for the MB temp (northbridge or southbright average ?







)... some said just apply AS5 and reseat the heat sink + additional little fan on it...

Any ideas?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
What do you mean decrease temperature of sensor? Of course a heatsink will keep your southbridge cooler. So temperature -> go down.

Anyone know max temperature for the 650i NB chipset? Using a IR temperature sensor on the NB heatsink it gets up to 45 C under full load. But MB temperature reading is 37-40 C.









He meant does adding a SB cooler decrease the temperature reading of the MB sensor. If it did, you'd have pretty good evidence that both NB and SB contribute to the sensor reading.

You should use your IR temp sensor on the SB...if it's 30-35C then that would explain the MB temp reading









Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
Hey guys, my MB temperature is also quite high !!! around 45C idle and 55C load !!! i heard alot of heat issue for the MB temp (northbridge or southbright average ?







)... some said just apply AS5 and reseat the heat sink + additional little fan on it...

Any ideas?

Yup, reapply with AS5, and a fan sure won't hurt. Even just good case airflow over the NB HS will help. Either that or buy a chipset cooler for it.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
He meant does adding a SB cooler decrease the temperature reading of the MB sensor. If it did, you'd have pretty good evidence that both NB and SB contribute to the sensor reading.

You should use your IR temp sensor on the SB...if it's 30-35C then that would explain the MB temp reading









Maybe I should have read up..









Well it is around 30-35 cause it doesn't get as hot as the NB. And it's quite cool. If I point it directly at air it gets 30 too so. =/


----------



## TriBeCa

i'm inclined to believe this rumor that it's the average of NB and SB. makes no sense why they'd design it that way (you'd have to have a temp sensor on both to do it, so why not report them seperately???), but it explains the results you're getting. And it's definatelly not in some random location on the board itself, since my MB temps dropped like 10C when I installed active coolers on the NB and SB.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
i'm inclined to believe this rumor that it's the average of NB and SB. makes no sense why they'd design it that way (you'd have to have a temp sensor on both to do it, so why not report them seperately???), but it explains the results you're getting. And it's definatelly not in some random location on the board itself, since my MB temps dropped like 10C when I installed active coolers on the NB and SB.

What's the safe temperature for the MB though? 40 C fine? >_>

Keep in mind with the IR temperature sensor. It's pointed at the heatsink not at the chip itself. So reads aren't accurate.


----------



## Praeses

Thanks for all the replies people. I'll order a zalman HS for my southbridge in 2 weeks or so when I order HL2 Orange box








Should I also get a zalman passive HS for my northbridge? I won't be able to mount my 60mm fan on it. My stock HS + 60mm fan is probably doing a better job then. What do you guys think? The thermalright HR-05 is a tad expensive here so it's a no go.


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

hey we have the same proc, i want to be able to overclock to about 2,8 400x7! but dont know a propper vcore or nb.. Also what abotu speed step or c1e what should i enable and disable in the mobo?? Thanks guys


----------



## brandon6199

Does anyone have proof of getting over 500 fsb with this board?

Anything over 475 and I can't post no matter what settings I use.


----------



## glide.classic

Hello all, I am new to this and just purchased and built a new system using the P5N-E-SLI, 4 GB of Crucial DDR2 800 memory, C2D 6850, Rosewill Z3 cooler, Nvidea GForce 7950 GX2, Antec 650W power supply. When I received the board last night I installed everything and tried to run Vista, it posted fine but hung right after getting to the desktop. I restarted and noticed it was BIOS 0503, and the CPU was recognized correctly. Windows booted the second try but commenced to hang for no reason. I have since flashed the BIOS to the latest 0703, put a clean install of Vista 32 Bit, changed the memory voltage in setup to 2.08, but had several unexplained hangups this morning.

Looking for suggestions, Thanks.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *glide.classic* 
Hello all, I am new to this and just purchased and built a new system using the P5N-E-SLI, 4 GB of Crucial DDR2 800 memory, C2D 6850, Rosewill Z3 cooler, Nvidea GForce 7950 GX2, Antec 650W power supply. When I received the board last night I installed everything and tried to run Vista, it posted fine but hung right after getting to the desktop. I restarted and noticed it was BIOS 0503, and the CPU was recognized correctly. Windows booted the second try but commenced to hang for no reason. I have since flashed the BIOS to the latest 0703, put a clean install of Vista 32 Bit, changed the memory voltage in setup to 2.08, but had several unexplained hangups this morning.

Looking for suggestions, Thanks.

Run memtest from a bootable ISO if possible. It's most probably memory problems. Changing my memory from T1 to T2 fixed my hanging problems







You could also try loosening the other timings.

Hope it helps


----------



## glide.classic

Praeses,

Thanks for the reply, I have never tried overclocking but have read through this thread and noticed a lot of issues with memory and voltages. The settings that I have seen from CPU-Z are as follows: Freq 400Mhz, FSB 5:6, 5-5-5-18-23-2T.

Suggestions welcomed.


----------



## cscheat

hey guys !!!

tried to flash my 0401 bios to 0608 bios using EZflash by FAIL !!! it said "downgraded rom bla bla...." then i tried to search this thread for info... and found that i can upgrade or downgrade my bios using the ASUS update UTILITY.

now my *0608* works like a CHARM !!!! (been heard it is the best bios for OC at the moment!)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
hey guys !!!

tried to flash my 0401 bios to 0608 bios using EZflash by FAIL !!! it said "downgraded rom bla bla...." then i tried to search this thread for info... and found that i can upgrade or downgrade my bios using the ASUS update UTILITY.

now my *0608* works like a CHARM !!!! (been heard it is the best bios for OC at the moment!)

I flashed to 0608 yesterday ... it added 5 seconds to my bootup, it just sits at the bios screen for like 5 seconds before it does anything (detect sata or even let me hit del to get into the bios)

might try 07xx soon...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *glide.classic* 
Praeses,

Thanks for the reply, I have never tried overclocking but have read through this thread and noticed a lot of issues with memory and voltages. The settings that I have seen from CPU-Z are as follows: Freq 400Mhz, FSB 5:6, 5-5-5-18-23-2T.

Suggestions welcomed.


Can you go into your bios and check the voltages for the ram? Sometimes auto doesn't give it enough to function properly, especially with 4 sticks


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
hey guys !!!

tried to flash my 0401 bios to 0608 bios using EZflash by FAIL !!! it said "downgraded rom bla bla...." then i tried to search this thread for info... and found that i can upgrade or downgrade my bios using the ASUS update UTILITY.

now my *0608* works like a CHARM !!!! (been heard it is the best bios for OC at the moment!)

Yea, the update utility is handy. In the future it's a good idea to reset the CMOS by pulling the jumper before flashing the BIOS. That fixed the "downgraded BIOS" problem for me.


----------



## glide.classic

Pheox,

I have set the system to manual in the BIOS and have the memory set at 2.087V. I flashed my BIOS to 0703 very early this morning and have had no problems, it has actually cleared up some things that I was seeing.

I was running SpeedFan 4.33 and noticed some thing strange, -12V is reading -16.08V, and -5V is reading -8.53V. Trying to figure out what is causing that.


----------



## Vinco

Hey guys, I'm new to OC'ing. I just has a question in general about the P5N-E SLI board. I read that you cant run 2 graphics cards at one time. Is that cuz its PCI Express x16 2 (SLI mode: x8, x8) instead of x16, x16? or can you run 2 video cards? I dont own the mobo yet, but if i can get 2 cards bridged on it, I would have almost no reason to not buy it . not to mention i would be able to actually OC from the BIOS, unlike the P5NSLi i have right now. feel free to call me a noob and throw stuff at me if you like


----------



## Christiaan

Noob! Joking!









The board supports SLI (2 NVidia graphics cards) but it goes into 8x 8x mode.


----------



## Vinco

*** is 8x 8x mode?


----------



## Christiaan

***? lol

8x 8x isn't a problem. You won't even notice the difference between it and full 16x. Except maybe on a GTX or Ultra.


----------



## Vinco

i dunno why it starred my comment. im probably gunna get this board and OC it before i get a second graphics card.


----------



## Christiaan

7600GT is really starting to show it's age, I know I have one.








But yes, your C2D will overclock very nicely on this board.


----------



## Vinco

Sweet. so whats the deal with these forums? does it have a mature language filter on it?


----------



## Christiaan

I'm not sure. I have never tried to swear on here.


----------



## Vinco

hahah u should try it...jk do you recommend any software to be used for overclocking and stuff?


----------



## Christiaan

The BIOS for CPU overclocking and ATITool to test graphics overclock stability and Rivatuner to set the actual overclock for your graphics card.


----------



## Vinco

ATITool works for all nvidia cards?


----------



## Christiaan

Yup, it's universal. Works with ATi/AMD and NVidia cards.

I just like to set the overclock with Rivatuner.


----------



## Vinco

kool when i get out of work, ill try it. and hopefully, i dont have to run out to frys or anything to get a new board


----------



## Gauvenator

Vinco, why aren't you able to oc with your P5N? I have a friend with one and it has the options..


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *glide.classic*


Pheox,

I have set the system to manual in the BIOS and have the memory set at 2.087V. I flashed my BIOS to 0703 very early this morning and have had no problems, it has actually cleared up some things that I was seeing.

I was running SpeedFan 4.33 and noticed some thing strange, -12V is reading -16.08V, and -5V is reading -8.53V. Trying to figure out what is causing that.


You still having stability trouble? As praeses said, it's almost certainly RAM related. However, in contrast to his advice here:



Praeses;2783628 You could also try loosening the other timings.[/QUOTE said:


> I would recommend setting your timings exactly to stock, and the max stock voltage. Loose timings can cause no end of stability issues on this board.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Praeses*
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the replies people. I'll order a zalman HS for my southbridge in 2 weeks or so when I order HL2 Orange box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I also get a zalman passive HS for my northbridge? I won't be able to mount my 60mm fan on it. My stock HS + 60mm fan is probably doing a better job then. What do you guys think? The thermalright HR-05 is a tad expensive here so it's a no go.
> 
> 
> Can you afford the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II? _Awesome_ NB cooler, it fits with most CPU coolers because you can point it in any direction. Only drawback is it's in a pain in the a** to install.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*
> 
> 
> hey we have the same proc, i want to be able to overclock to about 2,8 400x7! but dont know a propper vcore or nb.. Also what abotu speed step or c1e what should i enable and disable in the mobo?? Thanks guys
> 
> 
> Disable speedstep and c1e, and anything else you're not using (SATA or IDE ports, USB ports, RAID, all that stuff unless you're using it). As for vcore and vnb, set everything to stock (set vNB to 1.3x) and then start pushing your FSB up bit by bit. Increase vcore when you hit stability problems. You'll start running into an FSB hole somewhere around 387.5 (remember intel chips are x4, so the BIOS setting will 4 times that number), and probably stay in it right up to 450 or so.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Christiaan*
> 
> 
> ***? lol
> 
> 8x 8x isn't a problem. You won't even notice the difference between it and full 16x. Except maybe on a GTX or Ultra.
> 
> 
> Probably not even then. It's not really about the quality of the GFX card, it's about how much bandwidth you're trying to put through it. If you're running max resolution on a good 20" monitor you might see a difference, no matter what card you've got. But at 1600x1200 you're not gonna notice a thing.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brandon6199*
> 
> 
> Does anyone have proof of getting over 500 fsb with this board?
> 
> Anything over 475 and I can't post no matter what settings I use.
> 
> 
> I've seen proof of it (mostly in reviews of the board), but I don't think I've ever seen proof that it's stable. And I can't post over 440, so don't feel to bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember that every board and every chip is gonna have a different wall...and there's no question that not all these boards are capable of 500.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I've seen proof of it (mostly in reviews of the board), but I don't think I've ever seen proof that it's stable. And I can't post over 440, so don't feel to bad







Remember that every board and every chip is gonna have a different wall...and there's no question that not all these boards are capable of 500.


I can post over 450... I would try for 500 but my HDD died this morning so I'm in the process of trying to get all my files off it and RMA it ... maybe once it gets back


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Yup, it's universal. Works with ATi/AMD and NVidia cards.

I just like to set the overclock with Rivatuner.










hey chirstiaan, i just downloaded the new RIVATUNER 2.05 to overclock my 8800GTS, this time is a new thing !! " Shader Overclocking!"

now my 3dmarks is over 10446marks







(with my processor OC to 3.2Ghz too)!!!


----------



## Christiaan

Yeah, they brought it in, in the latest version. Seperate overclocking of the shader from GPU.









Can't wait to get my 8800...


----------



## Vinco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Vinco, why aren't you able to oc with your P5N? I have a friend with one and it has the options..


it has the option to monitor the Vcore and stuff, but no way to adjust it. and im pretty sure i have the latest BIOS.


----------



## glide.classic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


You still having stability trouble? As praeses said, it's almost certainly RAM related. However, in contrast to his advice here:

I would recommend setting your timings exactly to stock, and the max stock voltage. Loose timings can cause no end of stability issues on this board.


TriBeCa, when you say exactly to stock what do you mean? The Stock timings for the memory of 4-4-4-12, or the bios auto settings? I was able to run for 10 hours yesterday with no issues then udated the NVidia drivers and things went to H*LL in a hand basket. Couldn't stay running for more that 2 - 5 minutes. Did system restore point this AM, but while running Supreme Commander the system just hung again.

Does this sound like it could be a power problem? I appreciate all comments.


----------



## glide.classic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vinco*


it has the option to monitor the Vcore and stuff, but no way to adjust it. and im pretty sure i have the latest BIOS.


I found the same thing and that is the reason that I have just upgraded to the P5N-E-SLI and the E6850. The board that you have though has been more stable than what I am going through right now though. I put 20 of them in my lab for students to use for Satellite Design.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *glide.classic*


TriBeCa, when you say exactly to stock what do you mean? The Stock timings for the memory of 4-4-4-12, or the bios auto settings? I was able to run for 10 hours yesterday with no issues then udated the NVidia drivers and things went to H*LL in a hand basket. Couldn't stay running for more that 2 - 5 minutes. Did system restore point this AM, but while running Supreme Commander the system just hung again.

Does this sound like it could be a power problem? I appreciate all comments.


Stock for the memory, if it's 4-4-4-12 then yeah, 4-4-4-12. And make sure it's at 2T. Your system probably crapped out because the driver install went bad. Are you stable with just two DIMMs installed?


----------



## glide.classic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Stock for the memory, if it's 4-4-4-12 then yeah, 4-4-4-12. And make sure it's at 2T. Your system probably crapped out because the driver install went bad. Are you stable with just two DIMMs installed?


You know I haven't tried just two DIMMs, maybe I should do that in a minute or two. I have it set at this time for the 4-4-4-12 and 2T. Seems to be just fine, I have watched the resource manager and have not seen any hard faults on the memory at all.

Thanks.


----------



## TriBeCa

Cool. Make sure it's stable under orthos. But this board often auto-detects very loose timings, which can actually cause stability problems, basically because the loose timings mean the RAM is spitting out information in response to requests by the system too _late_, and so you get crazy instability.


----------



## cscheat

*hey tribeca & guys, what do u guys think about Kingston Hyper X ram PC6400 ?
i underclocked it to 712Mhz and 2.1Volts due to achieve FSB:MEM ratio of 1:1...

now running quite stable with no problems with several hours of gaming!*


----------



## TriBeCa

did you need to go to 1:1 to get stable? if not...then don't...keep them at stock. only exception would (maybe) be if the underclock to 1:1 lets you get the CAS timing down to 3....

I wouldn't say it's great memory, but I imagine it's cheaper than my dominators









Since you've underclocked it, try tightening up those timings. First see if you can get 1T, if not then try to get the CAS latency down to 3. Whether or not you can, you _should_ be able to get tRCD and tRP to 3 (and if you can, try to get at least tRCD to 2!). then step your tRAS down 2 at a time. Once that's stable, see if you can get the tRC timing (it's the second of the 'advanced' timings, located below the Command Rate in the BIOS) stable at just a little over the sum of tRP and tRAS. a good rule of them is to aim for tRP+tRAS+1, but of course step down to it a few at a time.

I'm running my dominators with a very mild overclock (400 MHz) at 4-3-3-3-7-2T. The performance boost from those timing means my system performs very nearly as well as if I were running my RAM at 1062MHz (which requires >10% more vdimm and isn't quite stable) with the tightest timings I could manage at that speed (5-4-4-7-12-2T, I think).

Check out the guide in my sig for more on timings


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


did you need to go to 1:1 to get stable? if not...then don't...keep them at stock. only exception would (maybe) be if the underclock to 1:1 lets you get the CAS timing down to 3....

I wouldn't say it's great memory, but I imagine it's cheaper than my dominators









Since you've underclocked it, try tightening up those timings. First see if you can get 1T, if not then try to get the CAS latency down to 3. Whether or not you can, you _should_ be able to get tRCD and tRP to 3 (and if you can, try to get at least tRCD to 2!). then step your tRAS down 2 at a time. Once that's stable, see if you can get the tRC timing (it's the second of the 'advanced' timings, located below the Command Rate in the BIOS) stable at just a little over the sum of tRP and tRAS. a good rule of them is to aim for tRP+tRAS+1, but of course step down to it a few at a time.

I'm running my dominators with a very mild overclock (400 MHz) at 4-3-3-3-7-2T. The performance boost from those timing means my system performs very nearly as well as if I were running my RAM at 1062MHz (which requires >10% more vdimm and isn't quite stable) with the tightest timings I could manage at that speed (5-4-4-7-12-2T, I think).

Check out the guide in my sig for more on timings










WOW ! that is wild timing tribeca !!! really can't wait to try it out tonight







!!!!

Anyway, i'll update u guys


----------



## Chani.-

hi i'm thinking of adding the thermaltake extreme spirit II chipset cooler to the NB so how would i go around doing that?

would i need to remove the NB and clean off the thermal paste and apply AS5 and then just put my chipset cooler on it or is there another way to do this?


----------



## henderson_83

I have a question for the experts here. I'm pretty new to Intel Overclocking and just got my system last night:

ASUS P5N-E
Conroe 6420
EVGA 8800GTS 640
2GB Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800Mhz
CoolerMaster 600W (Dual 12V Rail) PS
WD2500KS SATA II

I put the system together, got Windows installed and stabilized, and ran Prime95 all last night with no errors. I started tweaking/overclocking today. I manually set all my voltages to stock (memory was set to 2.1) and was able to overclock to 2.9GHz by adjusting the FSB to 362.5 and memory was manually set to 800Mhz the whole time. Increasing the FSB to anything beyond 362.5 would cause a no-boot, no-POST scenario even if I upped voltages.

So, I decided to see what I could do with a 7X multiplier with the same voltages. After changing the multiplier, I upped the FSB to 400 to see if I could get a stable overclock at 2.8GHz this way. The system booted and everything was fine. Next, I upped the FSB to 425MHz and the system stopped posting again. Only this time, it didn't come back. I reset the CMOS, and nothing. Next, I removed 1 of the memory modules...still nothing. Next, I took out the remaining memory module, and put the first one I pulled back in its place. The system posted just fine again. Just to prove my theory, I put the suspected bad module back in, and no POST. I took the bad module back out and let the system boot into Windows (the system was now loading default settings cause I reset the CMOS) and it got really unstable. Prime95 failed right away so I decided to run memtest86. Memtest86 clocked over 32000 errors in 30 seconds

I find it hard to believe that both modules of Corsair went bad. What do you guys think the problem could be? The Northbridge controller or the memory? My guess is, I'm gonna have to RMA either the RAM on the MB, I just don't know which one and I don't have any spare memory to test with.

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## brandon6199

This is a really dumb question but is a P5N-E SLI a P35?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chani.-*


hi i'm thinking of adding the thermaltake extreme spirit II chipset cooler to the NB so how would i go around doing that?

would i need to remove the NB and clean off the thermal paste and apply AS5 and then just put my chipset cooler on it or is there another way to do this?


You mean remove the huge ASUS heatsink not the NB itself.








But that's basically it. If you haven't removed it before and applied new thermal compound... The stock compound is as hard as rock. I found myself scratching it off.


----------



## pozarrat

I get this line during post:

Memory Testing: 2096128K OK (Installed Memory: 2097152K)

Is this standard or is there anything wrong with my ram ?


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
This is a really dumb question but is a P5N-E SLI a P35?









Its a Nvidia 650i chipset.


----------



## dragosmp

Quick question: does the P5N-E SLI work with:

1) Crucial Ballistix DDR667 2x1GB ?
2) G-Skill 2GBPK DDR 800 2x1GB ?

I'm thinking of swiching to Intel since my current AM2 mobo is slowly laying to rest... I'm actually thinking of the P5N-E + a Pentium 2160 and the Ballistix. Would that work and OC decent?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henderson_83*


I have a question for the experts here. I'm pretty new to Intel Overclocking and just got my system last night:

ASUS P5N-E
Conroe 6420
EVGA 8800GTS 640
2GB Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800Mhz
CoolerMaster 600W (Dual 12V Rail) PS
WD2500KS SATA II

I put the system together, got Windows installed and stabilized, and ran Prime95 all last night with no errors. I started tweaking/overclocking today. I manually set all my voltages to stock (memory was set to 2.1) and was able to overclock to 2.9GHz by adjusting the FSB to 362.5 and memory was manually set to 800Mhz the whole time. Increasing the FSB to anything beyond 362.5 would cause a no-boot, no-POST scenario even if I upped voltages.

So, I decided to see what I could do with a 7X multiplier with the same voltages. After changing the multiplier, I upped the FSB to 400 to see if I could get a stable overclock at 2.8GHz this way. The system booted and everything was fine. Next, I upped the FSB to 425MHz and the system stopped posting again. Only this time, it didn't come back. I reset the CMOS, and nothing. Next, I removed 1 of the memory modules...still nothing. Next, I took out the remaining memory module, and put the first one I pulled back in its place. The system posted just fine again. Just to prove my theory, I put the suspected bad module back in, and no POST. I took the bad module back out and let the system boot into Windows (the system was now loading default settings cause I reset the CMOS) and it got really unstable. Prime95 failed right away so I decided to run memtest86. Memtest86 clocked over 32000 errors in 30 seconds

I find it hard to believe that both modules of Corsair went bad. What do you guys think the problem could be? The Northbridge controller or the memory? My guess is, I'm gonna have to RMA either the RAM on the MB, I just don't know which one and I don't have any spare memory to test with.

Any help is appreciated.


First off, edit your system specs with the details (manufacturer and model of RAM and all that good stuff) you posted above.

Did you manually set the timings to stock at any point? This board hates loose timings, but auto detects loosely anyway. Get into the BIOS and manually set the timings to stock (5-5-5-15-2T or w/e is printed on the DIMMs), and manually set vdimm to what corsair recommends as max (probably 2.1v). Make _sure_ the command rate is at 2T, as 1T could also easily cause what you're describing.

If this doesn't work, try the other pair of slots. If that doesn't work, give corsair tech support a call. Try not to mention OCing your CPU, but it shouldn't matter if you do anyway, since you never OC'd the RAM, and it's clearly the RAM or the board that's at fault.

Let us know how all that works out. If none of that works you may have to return the RAM.... Incidently, can you give me the exact part no. for your RAM (CPUz will tell you)? I'm not 100% sure I found it on corsair's configurator for the p5n-e SLI...if it's not there, you should definately return the RAM and get a pair of modules that have been tested for the board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dragosmp*


Quick question: does the P5N-E SLI work with:

1) Crucial Ballistix DDR667 2x1GB ?
2) G-Skill 2GBPK DDR 800 2x1GB ?

I'm thinking of swiching to Intel since my current AM2 mobo is slowly laying to rest... I'm actually thinking of the P5N-E + a Pentium 2160 and the Ballistix. Would that work and OC decent?


Check on Crucial's and G-Skill's sites for which modules come up in their memory configurators. If those modules show up, then it'll work.

I can't speak to the P 2160...but I've seen good OC's here with Ballistix. Not sure about that specific module though, but I'm sure it'd be fine.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dragosmp*


Quick question: does the P5N-E SLI work with:

1) Crucial Ballistix DDR667 2x1GB ?
2) G-Skill 2GBPK DDR 800 2x1GB ?

I'm thinking of swiching to Intel since my current AM2 mobo is slowly laying to rest... I'm actually thinking of the P5N-E + a Pentium 2160 and the Ballistix. Would that work and OC decent?


dragosmp, why don't u get DDR800 instead of DDR667 ? it have more room for overclocking ! the P5N-E SLI is good to over clock the E2160 which is a beast !!! i can easily overclock that E2160 from 1.8Ghz stock to 3.25Ghz... but after some heat issue, i decided to stick to 3.2Ghz !

my CPU now runs 39C idle and 46C under load !!! what a beast !!!
any way, that is almost 78% OC and im satisfy with it as it cost me only 70USD for that processor !


----------



## dragosmp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


dragosmp, why don't u get DDR800 instead of DDR667 ? it have more room for overclocking ! the P5N-E SLI is good to over clock the E2160 which is a beast !!! i can easily overclock that E2160 from 1.8Ghz stock to 3.25Ghz... but after some heat issue, i decided to stick to 3.2Ghz !

my CPU now runs 39C idle and 46C under load !!! what a beast !!!
any way, that is almost 78% OC and im satisfy with it as it cost me only 70USD for that processor !










I have those G-skill 2GBPK ddr2-800, but this is as far as they go, DDR2 800. They have pretty tight timings, but they don't have any frequency potential.

On the other hand the Ballistix, even only DDR2-667 they can go up to DDR2-900 easily (2.2V for 5-5-5-15-2T), Micron D9-GMH chips









In regards to the P5N-E SLI, I'm reading a couple of forum threads and one thing that strikes me is the amount of people unsatisfied with what they call a "Huge Vdroop". I found also a mod to counter this issue.

Should I worry about the Vdroop? I take it that because of this, OCing may be limited somewhat. Many said that after the mods the Vdroop was dramaticly better, but somehow I don't see where's the benefit in this. I mean did someone experience better OCing after modding the mobo?

*EDIT The Vmod at VR-zone

Cheers guys!


----------



## TriBeCa

less vdroop will allow you to achieve a stable OC with a lower vcore setting.

the issue is that under load the CPU draws more current, which reduces the voltage because the board is unable to supply enough power to offset the current draw.

V=P/I (V = voltage, P=power, I=current). So you can that when I increases, V has to decrease unless P increases enough as well. Depending on your PSU and the voltage regulators on the board, V will drop by some amount when your CPU is under load. you will always experience some vdroop, it's just a question of how much.

vdroop is problematic because, let's say i'm experiencing 0.1vdroop (which is a LOT), and let's say my chip needs 1.5v to be stable at my OC, then if I set my vcore to 1.5v my chip will only receive 1.4v only load, and will not be stable. instead, I have to set my vcore to 1.6v so that when it loads it's still receiving 1.5v. this means I'm pushing a lot more juice through my CPU than it needs most of the time. it also means that, let's say i'm comfortable with 1.6v on my CPU but not more than that, then I can only achieve an OC that needs 1.5v to stay stable, whereas if I only had 0.05vdroop I could achieve a better OC--one that needs 1.55v to stay stable.

you can offset this issue somewhat by enabling C1E in the BIOS, which will decrease the voltage supplied to the CPU when it's not under load. unfortunately it doesn't work with high manual vcore settings (at least it doesn't seem to do anything at all with my OC). it can also lead to stability issues on it's own. your best bet is to achieve an OC you're happy with, and then try enabling C1E and speedstep (which reduces the CPU multiplier to the minimum when the chip isn't under load) to see if that's still stable.


----------



## dragosmp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
less vdroop will allow you to achieve a stable OC with a lower vcore setting.

the issue is that under load the CPU draws more current, which reduces the voltage because the board is unable to supply enough power to offset the current draw.

V=P/I (V = voltage, P=power, I=current). So you can that when I increases, V has to decrease unless P increases enough as well. Depending on your PSU and the voltage regulators on the board, V will drop by some amount when your CPU is under load. you will always experience some vdroop, it's just a question of how much.

vdroop is problematic because, let's say i'm experiencing 0.1vdroop (which is a LOT), and let's say my chip needs 1.5v to be stable at my OC, then if I set my vcore to 1.5v my chip will only receive 1.4v only load, and will not be stable. instead, I have to set my vcore to 1.6v so that when it loads it's still receiving 1.5v. this means I'm pushing a lot more juice through my CPU than it needs most of the time. it also means that, let's say i'm comfortable with 1.6v on my CPU but not more than that, then I can only achieve an OC that needs 1.5v to stay stable, whereas if I only had 0.05vdroop I could achieve a better OC--one that needs 1.55v to stay stable.

you can offset this issue somewhat by enabling C1E in the BIOS, which will decrease the voltage supplied to the CPU when it's not under load. unfortunately it doesn't work with high manual vcore settings (at least it doesn't seem to do anything at all with my OC). it can also lead to stability issues on it's own. your best bet is to achieve an OC you're happy with, and then try enabling C1E and speedstep (which reduces the CPU multiplier to the minimum when the chip isn't under load) to see if that's still stable.

I take it there are two reasons for this Vdroop:

1. To keep the dissipated power at a quasi constant level and to keep the temperature under control
2. To prevent the power draw of the CPUs to increase too much, thus allowing mobo manufacturers to use cheapo' parts in their budget mobos.

Thanks TriBeCa for the clarification. I'm unused to such ways of controlling the thermal output, as on the AMD front there is nothing but a weak PSU that drops the Vcore, a 3 phase power circuitry is enough most of the time.

One more thing, if I do the Vdroop mod, I limit the Vdrop during load and thus increase the power dissipation of the CPU, won't I put "too much" strain on the power regulators? I mean, they must be pretty hot already, I wonder if the MOSFets can keep up for a longer period in this regime (quad OCing and all).

Cheers!


----------



## TriBeCa

not sure how bad it'll be. i haven't heard of anyone using this mod running into trouble, but that doesn't mean it's impossible. if you plan on doing the mod and pushing your system really hard (especially if you're gonna be pushing a lot of vdimm as well), you might think about mosfet cooling....


----------



## cscheat

i had a vdrop problem before i change my PSU !!! my vcore drops 0.1v with my old "JUNK" Cooler Master 450W PSU !!!

then i changed my PSU to GIGABYTE ODIN GT 800W SLI ready !! now the vdrop is reduced !


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vinco*


it has the option to monitor the Vcore and stuff, but no way to adjust it. and im pretty sure i have the latest BIOS.



hmm, lemme dig around in my friends bios...I'll get back to you...eventually








I'll just PM you.


----------



## xlastshotx

I have recently purchased a new
Motherboard (Asus P5N-E SLI)
CPU (Pentium E2140)
Ram (G.Skill DDR2 800 2GB {2 x 1gb})

My plans were to OC the CPU to at least 3.0Ghz to get good price to performance. I have read many websites that almost everyone with this CPU seems to be able to get at least 2.8Ghz. I have been trying to OC it for awhile, but I seem to be stuck at 2.36Ghz. I am not familiar with Intel CPU's (this is my first Intel), so I was hoping that someone here could tell me what I am doing wrong here, and give me some suggestions on what to do.

Here are some pictures of how I have my settings. **edit, pictures deleted**


----------



## brandon6199

Bump the vcore up to 1.35 and the northbridge volts to 1.393v and then set your fsb to 1500mhz and change your ram timings from auto to what they are rated at.


----------



## xlastshotx

Alrite I just tried what you said, and I got the Failure thing I usually get.

I got this after saving the new bios settings and restarting my PC. I pressed F1 to continue. When I do that Windows loads normally, but it reverts back to stock settings.

**Edit Pictures Removed**

Any ideas on what could be the problem?

I noticed *cscheat* has an e2160 which is a very similar CPU, and he got his up to 3.2Ghz on a stock cooler. He has bios version 0606 though. I have the new one (0703). Could that be a problem?


----------



## pheoxs

@xlastshotx

Change your memory voltage off of auto as well, it's probably not giving your RAM enough volts which is causing your instability problems.


----------



## dragosmp

Try to up the Vram to 2.0V, but it should stabilise it. This shouldn't overheat it. Don't go over 2.1V though, unless the Gskills you have are G-Skill HZ.


----------



## Sin316

what's a good NB cooling solution , that fits on the p5n-e ? I noticed that the NB on mine gets quite hot









PS: i have stock intel cpu hs and dont really plan to change that, since it works well in my system (51C full load).

thx


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


Alrite I just tried what you said, and I got the Failure thing I usually get.

I got this after saving the new bios settings and restarting my PC. I pressed F1 to continue. When I do that Windows loads normally, but it reverts back to stock settings.









Heres the voltage settings.









Heres the FSB settings.









Heres the memory timings, I am not really sure what to set the Advanced settings or the CMD at. 









Heres CPU Configuration. 









CPU-Z screenshot, when Windows started back up. It is still at 1.6Ghz.









Any ideas on what could be the problem?

I noticed *cscheat* has an e2160 which is a very similar CPU, and he got his up to 3.2Ghz on a stock cooler. He has bios version 0606 though. I have the new one (0703). Could that be a problem?


The problem is quite simple, actually. I can practically guarentee you that 1.35vcore isn't enough for a 375 FSB. There's few chips out there that'll go from 1.8 GHz -> 3.0 GHz without an increase in vcore.

Start at 1200 FSB (2.4 GHz). You should have no trouble getting into windows from there. The you can increase the FSB in 25 MHz steps until you run into a problem. When you do, usually you'll have to increase vcore. At some point you may have to increase the vNB. I would recommend against the highest NB setting, but the second highest (1.56) should be ok.

Note that there's an FSB hole in the 650i chipset. It's a little different on every board, but you'll probably run into trouble between 1500 and 1700 FSB. When you do, the way to find out what's stable is to change your CPU multiplier to 6 and your LDT multi to 1. Then keep pushing up your FSB in 10-25 MHz steps. Record which speeds you can post at, and which you can't. Then you can set your multi back to 8 and LDT back to 5, and only try posting at those FSBs you could get with a multi of 6. I, for example, can't post at all at 1601->1640, 1675-1690, or over 1760. But I might've given up trying to get over 1650 (3.3 GHz) if I hadn't known I could post at 1700 despite that little hole.

Incidentally, go ahead and set your RAM voltage to max stock, and set Command Rate to 2T. Don't worry about the advanced timings, you can leave them on auto. You might wanna tighten up the tRC timing at some point, but that can wait 'till you have a stable OC on your CPU. Also, go ahead and turn CPU Internal Thermal Control.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin316*


what's a good NB cooling solution , that fits on the p5n-e ? I noticed that the NB on mine gets quite hot









PS: i have stock intel cpu hs and dont really plan to change that, since it works well in my system (51C full load).

thx



i'm quite happy with my thermaltake extreme spirit II.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


The problem is quite simple, actually. I can practically guarentee you that 1.35vcore isn't enough for a 375 FSB. There's few chips out there that'll go from 1.8 GHz -> 3.0 GHz without an increase in vcore.

Start at 1200 FSB (2.4 GHz). You should have no trouble getting into windows from there. The you can increase the FSB in 25 MHz steps until you run into a problem. When you do, usually you'll have to increase vcore. At some point you may have to increase the vNB. I would recommend against the highest NB setting, but the second highest (1.56) should be ok.

Note that there's an FSB hole in the 650i chipset. It's a little different on every board, but you'll probably run into trouble between 1500 and 1700 FSB. When you do, the way to find out what's stable is to change your CPU multiplier to 6 and your LDT multi to 1. Then keep pushing up your FSB in 10-25 MHz steps. Record which speeds you can post at, and which you can't. Then you can set your multi back to 8 and LDT back to 5, and only try posting at those FSBs you could get with a multi of 6. I, for example, can't post at all at 1601->1640, 1675-1690, or over 1760. But I might've given up trying to get over 1650 (3.3 GHz) if I hadn't known I could post at 1700 despite that little hole.

Incidentally, go ahead and set your RAM voltage to max stock, and set Command Rate to 2T. Don't worry about the advanced timings, you can leave them on auto. You might wanna tighten up the tRC timing at some point, but that can wait 'till you have a stable OC on your CPU. Also, go ahead and turn CPU Internal Thermal Control.


dont forget the vcore offset voltage. Its best to have that at +100mv than auto, that means you can have your vcore at 1.25 with +100mv and it would read as 1.35


----------



## Vinco

i got some questions. i used CPUZ and it says im doing like 2.133 Ghz but with a multiplier of 8 *** does that mean. also, with the P5NSLI i found that there is a jumper free config menu where u can change the voltage and stuff to overclock. i changed some of the settings for the vcore, but im not seeing too much of a difference, just PC Probe saying my CPU is on fire and by fire i mean like 135 degrees  also, it seems my startup is a lot slower now.


----------



## Sinimeister

Hello everyone









Sorry if my answers are within these forums, I have tried to find a solution to my problem but couldn't, so hence my post.

Basically, I'm not a hardcore overclocker and really just try to speed up my PC any way I can. I was reading how others got a nice overclock from this processor, so after trying 3.0 GHz and being able to play F.E.A.R., I was smiling.

Anyway, I am just trying to get at least a 2.8 GHz overclock that will be stable. So far I've tried 2.8 GHz, 3.0 GHz, 3.2 GHz and 3.5 GHz. All I have been altering is the FSB and the vcore, since I honestly don't know what else to do. Each of the overclocks I listed had the same result - I POST'd, booted to Windows and everything was fun until I started using some CPU intensive processes. If I am playing a game, after about 3-4 mins of playing, the system just locks up. The CPU temps have been fine, with a 37 C idle and 45ish C load.

It seems at 2.8 GHz I can play games with no lockups, just tested HL2 and FEAR for about an hour, but it did lock up during a DVD encode earlier.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what I can do to make this stable, if it even is possible? I have read that many people were able to get to at least 3.1 GHz on the stock voltage and even stock cooling. I have a pretty good air cooling setup at the moment, so overheating doesn't seem to be the issue.

Any additional info needed please just ask away, but I think I am just missing something or my hardware might not have been created equally as others.

Asus P5N-E SLI
Intel E6300 @ 1.86 GHz
G.Skill DDR2 800 (2 x 1GB)

Thanks to whoever reads this, I really want to make this work and appreciate any help - I will read other posts and try to find a solution, but I just wanted to post this since I'll be at work for the rest of the day and won't have a chance to play with my system.

Edit - Just adding these current shots of my current config in CPU-Z:


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vinco* 
i got some questions. i used CPUZ and it says im doing like 2.133 Ghz but with a multiplier of 8 *** does that mean. also, with the P5NSLI i found that there is a jumper free config menu where u can change the voltage and stuff to overclock. i changed some of the settings for the vcore, but im not seeing too much of a difference, just PC Probe saying my CPU is on fire and by fire i mean like 135 degrees  also, it seems my startup is a lot slower now.

I'm not sure what you're asking here. What CPU do you have? 2.13GHz is stock at a multi of x8 on, for example, the e6400, and probably a few others as well. Increasing voltage to your CPU will indeed make it run hotter, and won't do a damn thing to performance on it's own. I can only assume you mean 135F...otherwise I doubt your PC would've booted, and if it did I doubt your chip would've survived. At any rate, everyone uses C here when talking about temps.

In order to get more performance you have to increase the CPU's clock speed...increasing voltage is just to make that increased speed stable. Fill out your system specs in more detail and we'll try to help. What exactly did you want to know, btw?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sinimeister* 
Hello everyone









Sorry if my answers are within these forums, I have tried to find a solution to my problem but couldn't, so hence my post.

Basically, I'm not a hardcore overclocker and really just try to speed up my PC any way I can. I was reading how others got a nice overclock from this processor, so after trying 3.0 GHz and being able to play F.E.A.R., I was smiling.

Anyway, I am just trying to get at least a 2.8 GHz overclock that will be stable. So far I've tried 2.8 GHz, 3.0 GHz, 3.2 GHz and 3.5 GHz. All I have been altering is the FSB and the vcore, since I honestly don't know what else to do. Each of the overclocks I listed had the same result - I POST'd, booted to Windows and everything was fun until I started using some CPU intensive processes. If I am playing a game, after about 3-4 mins of playing, the system just locks up. The CPU temps have been fine, with a 37 C idle and 45ish C load.

It seems at 2.8 GHz I can play games with no lockups, just tested HL2 and FEAR for about an hour, but it did lock up during a DVD encode earlier.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what I can do to make this stable, if it even is possible? I have read that many people were able to get to at least 3.1 GHz on the stock voltage and even stock cooling. I have a pretty good air cooling setup at the moment, so overheating doesn't seem to be the issue.

Any additional info needed please just ask away, but I think I am just missing something or my hardware might not have been created equally as others.

Asus P5N-E SLI
Intel E6300 @ 1.86 GHz
G.Skill DDR2 800 (2 x 1GB)

Thanks to whoever reads this, I really want to make this work and appreciate any help - I will read other posts and try to find a solution, but I just wanted to post this since I'll be at work for the rest of the day and won't have a chance to play with my system.

Edit - Just adding these current shots of my current config in CPU-Z:
















First off, fill out your system specs in detail. Go to 'user CP' at the top of the page, then hit 'edit system' on the left hand side. Makes it easier to help you.

The problem is most likely that this board has a little trouble around 400 FSB. You probably just need to increase the NB voltage, but I'd recommend doing a few things first.

1. Don't use games to stress test. Use orthos (free) and 3dMark06 (also free). 8 hours of orthos and ~3 consecutive runs of 3dMark06 would indicate a stable system. Also you should be running speedfan or something similar to monitor core temperatures. Do not let these exceed 60C, or if they do make sure it's only under orthos, and not for very long.

2. Look up the stock timings for your RAM, and manually set them to that (with command rate at 2T). I'd bet money that your stock tRAS setting is _not_ 31 clocks, and having it that loose could easily cause stability problems.

3. Find out where the FSB holes are in your board. Reduce your CPU multi to the minimum (6) and the LDT multi to 1. Starting from where you are (1600 FSB in the bios) increase in 25 MHz steps, and record every speed that lets you get into windows. If you can't POST, increase by 5 or 10MHz from your last succesful POST. If you POST but fail to get into windows, increase vcore. If more vcore isn't helping, increase vNB. Don't exceed what you're comfortable with with either of those. With primo air cooling I still won't go over 1.6vcore. If you haven't at least reseated the NB HS with AS5, I wouldn't go over 1.56 vNB. If you have, then 1.75 should be fine (at least for testing, you might hesitate to run that 24/7). At some you'll cease to be able to POST at all, but by then you have a nice list of which FSB's are possible on your board and CPU.

4. Set CPU multi back to stock (7) and LDT multi back to 5. Work your way up the list of working FSB's you made. Again, increase vcore and vNB as necessary. Each time you boot into windows, run at least 1 minute of orthos. Once you hit the maximum value you can get with voltages you're comfortable with, try to get 8 hours of orthos out of it. You'll probably get an error, at which you should start working backwards until you find a clock speed that works for you.

5. When I did this, I ended having to slightly OC my RAM in order to get a 1:1 ratio. For some reason, I couldn't get my CPU stable unless the RAM was running at the same speed. So while I normally would say leave your RAM at stock while you OC your CPU, this is one exception. If you just can't get stable at a clock you think you should be able to achieve, try going to a 1:1 timing.


----------



## Perry

Woohoo!

I did it! I finally made the switch but after screwing around and having to reseat the memory about 10 times it finally posted. I'll get to work and fill in the rest of my specs, timings, etc and see what I can do with this inferno of a processor.

Now I can finally do some honest to goodness overclocking although I'm a bit late getting to the party.


----------



## TriBeCa

make sure you manually set your RAM to stock volts and timing, and then test stability before you start OCing. I had horrible trouble with my first board and an OCZ 800MHz kit, ended up RMA'ing the board and returning the RAM.


----------



## Perry

That's what I'm checking right now. The voltage isn't shown anywhere on the stickers or in the (lack of) documentation so I'm on the boards and knee deep in reviews to find out what it is.

I'd pretty much bet on 1.9 but it could be as much as 2.1 so we'll see.

***EDIT***
Looks like 2.1 volts so I'll have some changes to make when I get home.


----------



## TriBeCa

OCZ warranties most of their chips at +/-10% of the rated voltage, so you can play up to 2.3V without voiding your warranty. I've hear people say you need to start worrying about the MOSFETs at >2.2V though....


----------



## xlastshotx

Alrite TriBeCa, I tried what you said. I went in 25fsb intervals, here are my results:

800-1225 is stable.
1250-1350 will not post, or I get failure screen.
1375 will get to the windows load screen or rite before it, but it freezes.
1400-1475 will not post, or I get failure screen.
1500 will get to the windows load screen or rite before it, but it freezes.
1525-1700 will not post, or I get failure screen.
I didn't try anything after 1700fsb

I still cant figure out what the problem is. For the testing I used:

vCore Volts - 1.36875v
Mem Volts - 2.085v
NB Volts - 1.563v
vCore Offset - +100mv

FSB QDR - 1500fsb
FSB DDR - 800fsb

I didn't want to push the vCore voltage any higher because I am not really sure how high I can set it at and still have it in a safe range.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to try next?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


Alrite I tried what you said. I went in 25fsb intervals, here are my results:

800-1225 is stable.
1250-1350 will not post, or I get failure screen.
1375 will get to the windows load screen or rite before it, but it freezes.
1400-1475 will not post, or I get failure screen.
1500 will get to the windows load screen or rite before it, but it freezes.
1525-1700 will not post, or I get failure screen.
I didn't try anything after 1700fsb

I still cant figure out what the problem is. For the testing I used:

vCore Volts - 1.36875v
Mem Volts - 2.085v
NB Volts - 1.563v
vCore Offset - +100mv

FSB QDR - 1500fsb
FSB DDR - 800fsb

I didn't want to push the vCore voltage any higher because I am not really sure how high I can set it at and still have it in a safe range.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to try next?


Try changing your LDT (or is it LTD?) to 3x instead of 5x, you need to lower it for higher fsb speeds sometimes.


----------



## TriBeCa

you can ask in the intel CPU section what a safe vcore for your chip is, but I'd say as long as you keep below the thermal specifications for your chip under load (61.4C, see here) and stay under like 1.575vcore you're fine. when your system crashes while trying to load windows it's because of low vcore, so when that happens increase vcore by one or two notches and try again.

edit: and i'm willing to bet that once you bump vcore up you'll be able to POST at some of those FSBs that wouldn't POST before


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Try changing your LDT (or is it LTD?) to 3x instead of 5x, you need to lower it for higher fsb speeds sometimes.



Ok I will try that. What is the LDT though? or what does it do?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


you can ask in the intel CPU section what a safe vcore for your chip is, but I'd say as long as you keep below the thermal specifications for your chip under load (61.4C, see here) and stay under like 1.575vcore you're fine. when your system crashes while trying to load windows it's because of low vcore, so when that happens increase vcore by one or two notches and try again.

edit: and i'm willing to bet that once you bump vcore up you'll be able to POST at some of those FSBs that wouldn't POST before



I checked out the link, but that is not my CPU. That is the old version, with the core stepping L2. I have the new one, with the core stepping M0. Which for me is a good thing because the Thermal Specification is 73.2Â°C, instead of 61.4Â°C (11.8Â°C more!).

I will give what you said a try, hopefully I will finally get past 2.45Ghz!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


Ok I will try that. What is the LDT though? or what does it do?

I checked out the link, but that is not my CPU. That is the old version, with the core stepping L2. I have the new one, with the core stepping M0. Which for me is a good thing because the Thermal Specification is 73.2Â°C, instead of 61.4Â°C (11.8Â°C more!).

I will give what you said a try, hopefully I will finally get past 2.45Ghz!










@ the LDT, not 100% sure, but it has to do with the hyper transport link between the SB and NB, as you raise the FSB, you need to lower the multiplier in order to keep it stable

@ the voltage, general rule is your stock voltage + 10% on air cooling for the B3's, not sure if the M0 can handle more but anyways, so say, 1.325V * 1.1 = 1.46V ish. Just a ish estimate, mainly depends on your temperatures and how much you want to push it.


----------



## TriBeCa

LDT multi is basically an FSB multiplier for the SB. so as you increase FSB it increases the speed of the SB--if it goes up to much the SB can cause instability problems, which you really don't want since it has such a tiny impact on performance.

as for voltages...depends on the quality of the air cooling, really. i'd pay more attention to temps.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


I have recently purchased a new
Motherboard (Asus P5N-E SLI)
CPU (Pentium E2140)
Ram (G.Skill DDR2 800 2GB {2 x 1gb})

My plans were to OC the CPU to at least 3.0Ghz to get good price to performance. I have read many websites that almost everyone with this CPU seems to be able to get at least 2.8Ghz. I have been trying to OC it for awhile, but I seem to be stuck at 2.36Ghz. I am not familiar with Intel CPU's (this is my first Intel), so I was hoping that someone here could tell me what I am doing wrong here, and give me some suggestions on what to do.

Here are some pictures of how I have my settings. **edit, pictures deleted**


Try bumping it 40 or 50 mhz.

*EDIT: I thougt you were using the E6420, my bad. Idk, try what I said..it worked for me.


----------



## GruntWork

Hi All,

I am new to this forum and it's nice to meet you all









I recently decided to upgrade my PC soley because I got my hands on two barely used ASUS GeForce 7950 GX2's and my old tank of a PC was still in AGP 8x land. Not to mention the 6200 card was getting pretty sluggish on some of the newer games. So I am attempting to build a Quad SLI system for under $1000.

My biggest question is, will the P5N-E SLI support Quad SLI?

The specs of my new rig are:
ASUS P5N-E SLI (why I am here)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 (3Ghz, 1333Mhz FSB) 
2x Asus GeForce 7950 GX2 (2x GPU's per card, 1Gb GDDR each card)
G.Skill 4Gb PC2-6400 Dual Channel (2x 2Gb)
CoolerMaster Real Power Pro 850W PSU
Barracuda 750Gb 7200.10 SATA3 HDD
Antec heatsink/fan on southbridge (that only just clears the second 7950)

I did a lot of shooping around on-line to get the best bang for the buck parts and so far I am at $980, using alot of my old parts including case, DVD+RW drives and cooling fans etc...

Apart from fan on the southbridge, all other heatsink and fans are stock.

I plan on doing some thorough testing at stock settings to make sure the whole thing is stable and then I want to start overclocking.

What are all your thoughts on how much I can get out of this baby without investing in some serious cooling?

I think the weak point in this system is the RAM. I heard that G.skill RAM won't go over 800Mhz and remain stable.

I will update post as I get things together and will get some pictures of all the parts as I build (everything is still in peices).

Any advice you guys can give would be appreciated too.

Keep on fragging!!


----------



## Sin316

the one thing i could see bottlenecking , is that the PCI-e slots run on 8x instead of 16x in Sli mode. However, i don't know, how much the 7950x2 effectively uses. I've read somewhere, that it only uses x8 anyway (most card don't use 16x efficient yet anyway , if any







)


----------



## xlastshotx

Alrite well I messed around with the voltage settings and FSB settings for several hours, and it just wont go past 1235fsb no matter how high I go with the voltage. It runs at 2.46Ghz with no trouble so I will use that for now. I am pretty certain that my PSU is probably holding it back. Thanks to everyone that helped me, I learned a lot. When I pick up a new PSU I will give it another go, but rite now I need to get a cheap PCI sound card. The on board sound on my motherboard does not work at all :'( .


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


Alrite well I messed around with the voltage settings and FSB settings for several hours, and it just wont go past 1235fsb no matter how high I go with the voltage. It runs at 2.46Ghz with no trouble so I will use that for now. I am pretty certain that my PSU is probably holding it back. Thanks to everyone that helped me, I learned a lot. When I pick up a new PSU I will give it another go, but rite now I need to get a cheap PCI sound card. The on board sound on my motherboard does not work at all :'( .


*Hey bro !

my fren is having his P5N-E SLI & Pentium E2140 overclocked to 3GHz (8x375) !!! he is using 0608 bios same as mine
ah ! forgot to tell u he is using STOCK cooler !*


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GruntWork*


Hi All,

I am new to this forum and it's nice to meet you all









I recently decided to upgrade my PC soley because I got my hands on two barely used ASUS GeForce 7950 GX2's and my old tank of a PC was still in AGP 8x land. Not to mention the 6200 card was getting pretty sluggish on some of the newer games. So I am attempting to build a Quad SLI system for under $1000.

My biggest question is, will the P5N-E SLI support Quad SLI?

The specs of my new rig are:
ASUS P5N-E SLI (why I am here)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 (3Ghz, 1333Mhz FSB) 
2x Asus GeForce 7950 GX2 (2x GPU's per card, 1Gb GDDR each card)
G.Skill 4Gb PC2-6400 Dual Channel (2x 2Gb)
CoolerMaster Real Power Pro 850W PSU
Barracuda 750Gb 7200.10 SATA3 HDD
Antec heatsink/fan on southbridge (that only just clears the second 7950)

I did a lot of shooping around on-line to get the best bang for the buck parts and so far I am at $980, using alot of my old parts including case, DVD+RW drives and cooling fans etc...

Apart from fan on the southbridge, all other heatsink and fans are stock.

I plan on doing some thorough testing at stock settings to make sure the whole thing is stable and then I want to start overclocking.

What are all your thoughts on how much I can get out of this baby without investing in some serious cooling?

I think the weak point in this system is the RAM. I heard that G.skill RAM won't go over 800Mhz and remain stable.

I will update post as I get things together and will get some pictures of all the parts as I build (everything is still in peices).

Any advice you guys can give would be appreciated too.

Keep on fragging!!


First, go to 'user CP' at the top of this page, and click on 'edit system' on the left and put your specs in there. Will help us help you









Yes, the P5N-E will support quad and SLI.

I think the biggest thing holding back your PC will be heat, especially with two GPUs. Unless your last computers case was quite good, I would recommend a new case and fans, and I would really recommend _not_ trying to OC a quad with stock cooling. I'd say your case should have a bare _minimum_ of two 120mm fans (one intake one exhaust), preferably 3 (two intake). For your quad, I'd recommend a Tuniq Tower (I'd recommend my cooler, but it's really expensive).

Also, before you put everything together, make sure you at least take the NB cooler off, clean off the thermal compound, and reseat it with AS5. The stuff ASUS uses is crap.

Not sure about your RAM....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin316*


the one thing i could see bottlenecking , is that the PCI-e slots run on 8x instead of 16x in Sli mode. However, i don't know, how much the 7950x2 effectively uses. I've read somewhere, that it only uses x8 anyway (most card don't use 16x efficient yet anyway , if any







)


It's been shown (see the reviews in the first post, it's in one of them) that the 8x speeds make 0 difference with 2 8800GTXs up to at least 1600x1200 resolution. Theoretically at higher resolutions it will start to matter, but it's not clear when. Nothing actually uses that much bandwidth ;p

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


Alrite well I messed around with the voltage settings and FSB settings for several hours, and it just wont go past 1235fsb no matter how high I go with the voltage. It runs at 2.46Ghz with no trouble so I will use that for now. I am pretty certain that my PSU is probably holding it back. Thanks to everyone that helped me, I learned a lot. When I pick up a new PSU I will give it another go, but rite now I need to get a cheap PCI sound card. The on board sound on my motherboard does not work at all :'( .


It's possible...what PSU is it? How bad is the vdroop at the highest FSB you can post at? 1235 is crazy low...I guarentee the board is capable of more than that. I've never seen one stop before 1600.


----------



## GruntWork

TriBeCa (and others) thanks for reading my post. I took your advice and added my system specs in the User CP. I didn't realize I could do that, nice feature.

I feared that cooling might be an issue. The case I have is a full Aluminum ATX, but it is a little old and I don't remember the brand/model. I had a P4 2.4Ghz single core @2.8Ghz, a Geforce 6200 Ultra AGP and 2GB DDR PC2700 RAM on an Asus P4S533 board with 450W Mad Dog PSU. The motherboard was a slug with only 4x AGP, but it got the job done. I had no heat issues at all with that setup. But that doesn't mean much because I'm attempting to run more than double the power, more than double the CPU, more than four times the GPU through the same case.

I agree with your assesment of PCI-Express 16x vs. 8x. I read the same review and there was vurtially no performance gain running 16x over 8x unless you crank up the resulution. Since I am at 1680x1050, I don't see an issue there.

It's not theend of the world if I can overclock the RAM much, since the P5N-E SLI nicely allows us to unbind the CPU and memory clocks.

I'm sure this will be a solid performer even with all stock timings, but I have the bug in my brain and I have to crank the most out of everything I have. I also have the hard budget from the wife of $1000.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll take some pics tonight.


----------



## TriBeCa

do you have access to tools with which you could drill additional holes in your case? if you can mod in an intake fan or two it'll make a huge difference.... also note that, as I understand it, you have to have an updated BIOS _before_ your system will post with a 1333FSB CPU in it.


----------



## GruntWork

So the motherboard will not even recognize a 1333 CPU? I've downloaded the 0703 BIOS from Asus and planned to make that my first To-Do once built.

Then I will need a donor CPU to get my BIOS updated first... That's nice of Asus, since their litrature states "FSB1333 ready when processors are available"


----------



## Asce

Just stick on old 1066fsb CPU in to flash the BIOS then use your shiny new 1333fsb CPU


----------



## Gauvenator

yah, just use the bios flasher that doesn't use windows.


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
*Hey bro !
my fren is having his P5N-E SLI & Pentium E2140 overclocked to 3GHz (8x375) !!! he is using 0608 bios same as mine
ah ! forgot to tell u he is using STOCK cooler !*

Yeah, thats what I want to do. I have an after market cooler! So I should be able to get there easier

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
It's possible...what PSU is it? How bad is the vdroop at the highest FSB you can post at? 1235 is crazy low...I guarantee the board is capable of more than that. I've never seen one stop before 1600.

The only thing I saw that I thought might be weird was the 12v would go from 12.22v to 12.11v for no reason every now and then. I just cant think of what else could be my problem. I don't know what vdroop is. Do you think it could be the new 0703 bios? It appears that everyone is running older versions ex. 0608. I had the vCore running at 1.57v, the LTD at 3x, All the other voltage's at their safe maximum. And nothing changed. Here are my results.

CPU FSB
800-1230 stable
1275-1325 will not post or error screen
1350-1375 crashed at windows load screen, or got blue screen
1400-1475 will not post or error screen
1500 crashed at windows load screen, or got blue screen
1525-1825 will not post or error screen

My power supply is a Logisys 400W/550W max... yeah


----------



## Asce

Not every chip is the same, so some will oc better than others. Try 1.35 vcore and then go to the vcore offset and change it to +100mv, also change your NB voltage to 1.5 as well then try again


----------



## TriBeCa

BSODs eh? Are your RAM timings manually set to stock?

and vdroop is the difference between the BIOS vcore setting and the vcore reading (e.g. from speedfan) under load. check what it is with the highest FSB you can manage to get into windows with.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GruntWork*


So the motherboard will not even recognize a 1333 CPU? I've downloaded the 0703 BIOS from Asus and planned to make that my first To-Do once built.

Then I will need a donor CPU to get my BIOS updated first... That's nice of Asus, since their litrature states "FSB1333 ready when processors are available"


depending on when your board shipped out from ASUS it might have a 1333 capable BIOS already.


----------



## glide.classic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
BSODs eh? Are your RAM timings manually set to stock?

and vdroop is the difference between the BIOS vcore setting and the vcore reading (e.g. from speedfan) under load. check what it is with the highest FSB you can manage to get into windows with.

depending on when your board shipped out from ASUS it might have a 1333 capable BIOS already.

Gruntwork, I received mine last week and it had a BIOS rev of 05xx. I tried the 0703 and found it to have a lot of problems, I have built the same as you with the 7950 but am using Crucial Ballistics memory, 4 x 1GB. Mine did not recognize the e6850 correctly. I flashed to 0703 and then ended up having to rebuild the entire machine and flashed to 0608 and that seems stable.


----------



## glide.classic

TriBeCa,

You seem to understand the memory issues pretty well, I have rebuilt since the last I posted and have run memtest for 12+ hours and have not had one issue with all four sticks. I have tried to run Supreme Commander and it will lock up. That is the only thing that will do it, I can run anything else. I have installed and reinstalled multiple times, could there be something else? Has anyone run into this? Vista 32bit and 4GB, it only see's 3.25 or 3.5. Help.......


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *glide.classic* 
TriBeCa,

You seem to understand the memory issues pretty well, I have rebuilt since the last I posted and have run memtest for 12+ hours and have not had one issue with all four sticks. I have tried to run Supreme Commander and it will lock up. That is the only thing that will do it, I can run anything else. I have installed and reinstalled multiple times, could there be something else? Has anyone run into this? Vista 32bit and 4GB, it only see's 3.25 or 3.5. Help.......

If its a game locking up, it could be a graphics card driver issue perhaps.

As for the 3.x gb of ram only showing up, thats normal, 32bit operating systems can only use / see that much ram, so unless you change to 64bit you won't use all your ram (there might be some patch somewhere on the internet but I haven't the slightest clue where it would be)


----------



## glide.classic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
If its a game locking up, it could be a graphics card driver issue perhaps.

As for the 3.x gb of ram only showing up, thats normal, 32bit operating systems can only use / see that much ram, so unless you change to 64bit you won't use all your ram (there might be some patch somewhere on the internet but I haven't the slightest clue where it would be)

When I rebuilt the system, I have reloaded all the correct drivers. The latest driver for the 7950 GX2 is 163.69 from NVidia. I have also downloaded the hotpatch from Microsoft 940105 that is supposed to clear up these issues. I understand the 32 bit not recognizing all the RAM but when I get no errors and everything else works it is just plain strange.....

Thanks..


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
If its a game locking up, it could be a graphics card driver issue perhaps.

As for the 3.x gb of ram only showing up, thats normal, 32bit operating systems can only use / see that much ram, so unless you change to 64bit you won't use all your ram (there might be some patch somewhere on the internet but I haven't the slightest clue where it would be)

Right on both counts. If the only thing causing stability problems is a game, it's almost definately GFX related. Try running 3dMark06 three or four times in a row and see if you hit any problems.... Is your GFX card OC'd? What temp is the GPU at?

And there won't be a patch for recognizing more than 3.x, as 32-bit systems are simply unable to address more memory than that. 64-bit systems are (theoretically) capable of addressing a couple terabytes of RAM, iirc. That'll be the day....


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *glide.classic* 
When I rebuilt the system, I have reloaded all the correct drivers. The latest driver for the 7950 GX2 is 163.69 from NVidia. I have also downloaded the hotpatch from Microsoft 940105 that is supposed to clear up these issues. I understand the 32 bit not recognizing all the RAM but when I get no errors and everything else works it is just plain strange.....

Thanks..









Report the issue with Supreme Commander's tech support? May even be a known issue.


----------



## glide.classic

TriBeCa,

Thanks for the reply, I have run 3dMark06 several times and had failures. After we had talked before I rebuilt and things have been pretty good, downgraded to 0608 and haven't had any problems but the one. I will try the THQ tech support and see. Thanks again for all the assistance everyone and I will continue to watch and post. I don't know what the temps of the GPU are, I will have to find out and let you know.

Thanks again ...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Right on both counts. If the only thing causing stability problems is a game, it's almost definately GFX related. Try running 3dMark06 three or four times in a row and see if you hit any problems.... Is your GFX card OC'd? What temp is the GPU at?

And there won't be a patch for recognizing more than 3.x, as 32-bit systems are simply unable to address more memory than that. 64-bit systems are (theoretically) capable of addressing a couple terabytes of RAM, iirc. That'll be the day....










Wish I had the cash to max out the 128gb limit of XP Pro x64...









Now I wish I had got that Tyan mobo...so I can have 32gb of ram, lol







i'd prob never use anywhere near that much lol

w/e it's all good, you probably need 3gb at most for today's games.


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

Im going to be putting xms ram into my board, but i dont want to overclock the system at all.. I need to change the voltages of the ram, but will that then change my nb, vcore and set them to auto and then manually change my ram?? I dont want my ram on auto and running to high.. Unless it know how much juice to put in?? Im overclock impaired and dont want to mess things up.. Does anyone know the default vcore, nb is for the 6550, in case i do have to set it up manually? Also for fsb, should i leave in linked and snyced or leave it on auto?!? Thanks a lot


----------



## TriBeCa

if you're not gonna OC, just leave everything at stock. if you really wanna set vdimm manually, then just do that. look up stock on the manufacturers website.


----------



## xlastshotx

The setting that I set the vCore at, always displays differently on the bios monitor. I usually have to set it up several notches for it to actually change.. Vdroop? Also I will flash my bios to the old 0608 version, since it seems that other people are having stability problems with the new 0703 like me.


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, that's vdroop. don't keep bumping it until you see a change though, those vcore increases ARE real


----------



## GruntWork

Quote:


Originally Posted by *glide.classic* 
Gruntwork, I received mine last week and it had a BIOS rev of 05xx. I tried the 0703 and found it to have a lot of problems, I have built the same as you with the 7950 but am using Crucial Ballistics memory, 4 x 1GB. Mine did not recognize the e6850 correctly. I flashed to 0703 and then ended up having to rebuild the entire machine and flashed to 0608 and that seems stable.


Thanks guys, I know how to tackle this now.

Glide, I might take your advice and flash to 0608 first to get all my settings in order. I will then back up the BIOS and flash to 0703 to see if I also get stability issues.

I did some reading about the 4GB RAM issue in 32-bit OSes. The hardware must reserve address space for the size of the memory used by all devices. For example your 7950 GX2 has 1GB, so the system has to reserve 1GB of address space (not memory space, there is a difference) even before the OS comes into the equation. That means whatever address space is left, the OS will use to address RAM. The more devices you have in your PC, the more address space that needs to be reserved. Hence, it is not available to the OS. You could probably get the full 4GB to show up in windows if you use very "skinny" devices and enable PAE. Technically, if you run 64-bit OS on this motherboard you will run into this same issue when installing 8GB RAM because that's all that the 650i chipset supports, so the OS will address everything less what is required to address devices (~6.5Gb to 7.6Gb)... Of course I might be a little wrong in some of this, so I will stand corrected if anyone has a better explanation.


----------



## Rick Arter

Great thread I am wanting to purchase this board because of the value and capability. I haven't read the whole thread but can someone tell me if this set-up will have any issues with this motherboard. It says my RAM is compatible, but I searched and found no results for anyone with my brand. Here are the specs:

Intel Core 2 Duo either E4300 or E6320
G. Skill NQ DDR2-800 (2x1GB)
No RAID but multiple HDD
eVGA 7600GT KO PCI-E going to vmod or sell and get 8600GT

Any suggestions or tips for this build OCN 650i mobo users? Might go SLI someday just want the option.

Also will a TT BT fit on this board did not see it listed?


----------



## TriBeCa

Yeah, dpawl hasn't been around to update that list for a while. Not sure I've seen anyone with a TT on this board, but as my Tr Ultra-X fits I'm fairly certain the TT will as well.

Don't see any issues with your build.

Two suggestions I have are a) reseat the NB HS with AS5 if you're gonna stick with the stock HS, and b) when the board first POSTS go into the BIOS and immediately manually set your RAM to stock voltage and timings (and 2T). Time and again I've seen people in here with serious stability problems at stock settings when all they needed to do is manually set those timings.


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I'm not sure what you're asking here. What CPU do you have? 2.13GHz is stock at a multi of x8 on, for example, the e6400, and probably a few others as well. Increasing voltage to your CPU will indeed make it run hotter, and won't do a damn thing to performance on it's own. I can only assume you mean 135F...otherwise I doubt your PC would've booted, and if it did I doubt your chip would've survived. At any rate, everyone uses C here when talking about temps.

In order to get more performance you have to increase the CPU's clock speed...increasing voltage is just to make that increased speed stable. Fill out your system specs in more detail and we'll try to help. What exactly did you want to know, btw?

First off, fill out your system specs in detail. Go to 'user CP' at the top of the page, then hit 'edit system' on the left hand side. Makes it easier to help you.

The problem is most likely that this board has a little trouble around 400 FSB. You probably just need to increase the NB voltage, but I'd recommend doing a few things first.

1. Don't use games to stress test. Use orthos (free) and 3dMark06 (also free). 8 hours of orthos and ~3 consecutive runs of 3dMark06 would indicate a stable system. Also you should be running speedfan or something similar to monitor core temperatures. Do not let these exceed 60C, or if they do make sure it's only under orthos, and not for very long.

2. Look up the stock timings for your RAM, and manually set them to that (with command rate at 2T). I'd bet money that your stock tRAS setting is _not_ 31 clocks, and having it that loose could easily cause stability problems.

3. Find out where the FSB holes are in your board. Reduce your CPU multi to the minimum (6) and the LDT multi to 1. Starting from where you are (1600 FSB in the bios) increase in 25 MHz steps, and record every speed that lets you get into windows. If you can't POST, increase by 5 or 10MHz from your last succesful POST. If you POST but fail to get into windows, increase vcore. If more vcore isn't helping, increase vNB. Don't exceed what you're comfortable with with either of those. With primo air cooling I still won't go over 1.6vcore. If you haven't at least reseated the NB HS with AS5, I wouldn't go over 1.56 vNB. If you have, then 1.75 should be fine (at least for testing, you might hesitate to run that 24/7). At some you'll cease to be able to POST at all, but by then you have a nice list of which FSB's are possible on your board and CPU.

4. Set CPU multi back to stock (7) and LDT multi back to 5. Work your way up the list of working FSB's you made. Again, increase vcore and vNB as necessary. Each time you boot into windows, run at least 1 minute of orthos. Once you hit the maximum value you can get with voltages you're comfortable with, try to get 8 hours of orthos out of it. You'll probably get an error, at which you should start working backwards until you find a clock speed that works for you.

5. When I did this, I ended having to slightly OC my RAM in order to get a 1:1 ratio. For some reason, I couldn't get my CPU stable unless the RAM was running at the same speed. So while I normally would say leave your RAM at stock while you OC your CPU, this is one exception. If you just can't get stable at a clock you think you should be able to achieve, try going to a 1:1 timing.

Thank you for all of that info, TriBeCa! I made a preliminary list that ranged from 1600 to 2045, with 2020 being able to boot into Windows. I should probably take the auto vcore off for my next round of testing, but at 2020 I noticed it changed the vcore to about 1.47. I also haven't changed the NB voltage either, as I don't seem to have a monitor that shows me the current NB voltage or what the stock should be at.

I also looked up my RAM timings and you were corrent, the tRAS is 15, so I manually put 5-5-5-15 @ 2T for stability sake. I'm currently ORTHOS right now at 400 FSB with a 1.35 vcore (I don't know whether to call it 400 or 1600.







) If this is still running when I get back from work, I can hopefully go farther









Before ORTHOS though, I did try to encode another DVD while, but the system froze about 20 minutes into it, although ORTHOS has been running for about 30 minutes now.

And I edited my user CP with as much info (probably too much) as I could manage - also, I haven't reseated my NB heatsink, but I do have a 120mm fan on top of it currently.

I will post more later, have to run to work - thank you again!


----------



## henderson_83

Does anyone know of a good NB cooler that works well with this board? I have the Arctic Freezer 7 and was wondering if there are any NB coolers that will fit on this board with that monster installed? I've also heard people on this thread using the Cooler Master Blue Ice for cooling the SB (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155). How well does it work? Also, how does it attach to the SB? Thanks for all the help guys, this thread rocks! (It is just too damn long!


----------



## Sin316

i'll get my THERMALTAKE Extreme Spirit II tomorrow (hopefully), i'll let ya know, how it does


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henderson_83*


Does anyone know of a good NB cooler that works well with this board? I have the Arctic Freezer 7 and was wondering if there are any NB coolers that will fit on this board with that monster installed? I've also heard people on this thread using the Cooler Master Blue Ice for cooling the SB (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155). How well does it work? Also, how does it attach to the SB? Thanks for all the help guys, this thread rocks! (It is just too damn long! 


I have a HR-05-SLI and it works great, even without an additional fan, eventually I'll mount a 60mmfan onto it and see how that helps.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinimeister*


Thank you for all of that info, TriBeCa! I made a preliminary list that ranged from 1600 to 2045, with 2020 being able to boot into Windows. I should probably take the auto vcore off for my next round of testing, but at 2020 I noticed it changed the vcore to about 1.47. I also haven't changed the NB voltage either, as I don't seem to have a monitor that shows me the current NB voltage or what the stock should be at.

I also looked up my RAM timings and you were corrent, the tRAS is 15, so I manually put 5-5-5-15 @ 2T for stability sake. I'm currently ORTHOS right now at 400 FSB with a 1.35 vcore (I don't know whether to call it 400 or 1600.







) If this is still running when I get back from work, I can hopefully go farther









Before ORTHOS though, I did try to encode another DVD while, but the system froze about 20 minutes into it, although ORTHOS has been running for about 30 minutes now.

And I edited my user CP with as much info (probably too much) as I could manage - also, I haven't reseated my NB heatsink, but I do have a 120mm fan on top of it currently.

I will post more later, have to run to work - thank you again!


Wow, I'm jealous. I can't seem to get over 1760







You've got a 500FSB capable board there.

There's no NB voltage monitor, and I'm not really sure what stock is either. Just set it manually to what you need for stability....

Not sure about the freeze during DVD encoding.... Could easily be that your system is not stable and you need to bump the vcore a bit. I'm amazed you can into windows at 400FSB with stock vcore.... What multi are you at? 7?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*


Great thread I am wanting to purchase this board because of the value and capability. I haven't read the whole thread but can someone tell me if this set-up will have any issues with this motherboard. It says my RAM is compatible, but I searched and found no results for anyone with my brand. Here are the specs:

Intel Core 2 Duo either E4300 or E6320
G. Skill NQ DDR2-800 (2x1GB)
No RAID but multiple HDD
eVGA 7600GT KO PCI-E going to vmod or sell and get 8600GT

Any suggestions or tips for this build OCN 650i mobo users? Might go SLI someday just want the option.

Also will a TT BT fit on this board did not see it listed?


I've had good results oc'ing an E6320 on this board. I oc'ed the fsb to 1600 for 2.8ghz (1.3625v), and it has 4m of L2 cache. It's twice as fast rendering in Autodesk Maya 8.5 mental ray now.









don't know about the ram tho...i've never used G.Skill. However, my mushkin is not listed and it works fine.


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

I want to change my ram voltage... But i want to keep stock voltages for my vcore and nb...I was told you never want settings on auto, because it can give to much voltage to vcore/nb needed to run. So my question is what setting do i chose for AI Tuning, to only change ram voltage and leave everything else alone at stock voltages! Options to choose from are manual, auto and standard...I may also set my ram to linked/synced or just leave that auto??.. then later on when i overclock ill unlink and manually set ram speed.
**Ai Tuning options which to select**

image 1

**Im guessing Auto was selected for Ai Tuning for these settings correct?? But i wouldnt keep my settings like this, because i only want default vcore/nb just for my ram to be the only factor thats changed**

image 2

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Should i enable cpu qfan and chasis qfan and is speedstep and c1e worth enabling?? Does it change back to normal speed when im in game.. thats my main concern, i dont want to be running at a lower speed if i were to be playing crysis. Thanks and much appreciatiated with the prompt replies


----------



## henderson_83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


I have a HR-05-SLI and it works great, even without an additional fan, eventually I'll mount a 60mmfan onto it and see how that helps.


How well do these aftermarket NB/SB coolers work and are they worth the investment? I have an E6420 and was hoping to consistently run it at 3.0GHz. Are speeds like this too much for the stock NB/SB chips to take without an aftermarket cooler? I have 800Mhz RAM also and my FSB speed will be taking advantage of the full 800MHz. In other words, how hot is too hot before you risk toasting your NB/SB chips?

Again, thanks for any information.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henderson_83*


How well do these aftermarket NB/SB coolers work and are they worth the investment? I have an E6420 and was hoping to consistently run it at 3.0GHz. Are speeds like this too much for the stock NB/SB chips to take without an aftermarket cooler? I have 800Mhz RAM also and my FSB speed will be taking advantage of the full 800MHz. In other words, how hot is too hot before you risk toasting your NB/SB chips?

Again, thanks for any information.


It's possible to run 3.0ghz on stock NB cooling, I did for a while, but after adding a HR-05-SLI to both the NB and SB, it dropped the MB temperatures 15C, and thats not even with any fans on either, I need to redo some stuff and then I'll attach a fan to the NB one. The NB works very well, as it is extremely hot to the touch, meaning it is doing its job dissipating the heat. 3.0ghz is fine for stock NB, but I wouldn't go any higher than that, as the NB starts getting strained quite a bit.

Also, make sure if you do have a stock heatsink on there, take it off and reapply it with AS5 or another thermal paste, the stuff asus puts on there is crap, I couldn't even scrap it off barely...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*











I want to change my ram voltage... But i want to keep stock voltages for my vcore and nb...I was told you never want settings on auto, because it can give to much voltage to vcore/nb needed to run. So my question is what setting do i chose for AI Tuning, to only change ram voltage and leave everything else alone at stock voltages! Options to choose from are manual, auto and standard...I may also set my ram to linked/synced or just leave that auto??.. then later on when i overclock ill unlink and manually set ram speed.
**Ai Tuning options which to select**

image 1

**Im guessing Auto was selected for Ai Tuning for these settings correct?? But i wouldnt keep my settings like this, because i only want default vcore/nb just for my ram to be the only factor thats changed**

image 2

------------------------------------------------------------------------



Go to manual in the AI tuning, set your voltages to stock, for your RAM, it'll be listed on the sticker on each module or whatever voltage you think you want, on your CPU, I have no clue what CPU you have, if its Core 2 Duo, 1.325V is good, if its something else, find out its stock voltage, and you can leave NB on auto, or just set it to the 1.3xx V one. Vcore offset, leave on auto, otherwise it'll add 0.1V (meaning just lower the Vcore setting by 0.1V to compensate for it)

Quote:



Should i enable cpu qfan and chasis qfan and is speedstep and c1e worth enabling?? Does it change back to normal speed when im in game.. thats my main concern, i dont want to be running at a lower speed if i were to be playing crysis. Thanks and much appreciatiated with the prompt replies


You can disable or enable whichever you want. It changes back to full speed as needed, so in a game, yes it will run at it's normal speed, the reason some people disable them, as you have higher overclocks it can cause instability when the speed starts jumping up and down, at stock settings you can enable them to save power.


----------



## Road_runner

I have just ordered an Asus P5N-E SLI 650i. Will Patriot Dual Channel 2048MB PC6400 DDR2 800MHz Memory (2 x 1024MB) work in this MB? It will have an Intel Core2 Duo E6750 2.66Ghz 4M 1333Mhz FSB proc.

Thanks,
Les


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
The problem is quite simple, actually. I can practically guarentee you that 1.35vcore isn't enough for a 375 FSB. There's few chips out there that'll go from 1.8 GHz -> 3.0 GHz without an increase in vcore.

Start at 1200 FSB (2.4 GHz). You should have no trouble getting into windows from there. The you can increase the FSB in 25 MHz steps until you run into a problem. When you do, usually you'll have to increase vcore. At some point you may have to increase the vNB. I would recommend against the highest NB setting, but the second highest (1.56) should be ok.

Note that there's an FSB hole in the 650i chipset. It's a little different on every board, but you'll probably run into trouble between 1500 and 1700 FSB. When you do, the way to find out what's stable is to change your CPU multiplier to 6 and your LDT multi to 1. Then keep pushing up your FSB in 10-25 MHz steps. Record which speeds you can post at, and which you can't. Then you can set your multi back to 8 and LDT back to 5, and only try posting at those FSBs you could get with a multi of 6. I, for example, can't post at all at 1601->1640, 1675-1690, or over 1760. But I might've given up trying to get over 1650 (3.3 GHz) if I hadn't known I could post at 1700 despite that little hole.

Incidentally, go ahead and set your RAM voltage to max stock, and set Command Rate to 2T. Don't worry about the advanced timings, you can leave them on auto. You might wanna tighten up the tRC timing at some point, but that can wait 'till you have a stable OC on your CPU. Also, go ahead and turn CPU Internal Thermal Control.

Actually, I'm at 450 fsb at stock voltage right now and its 100% stable


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx* 









I want to change my ram voltage... But i want to keep stock voltages for my vcore and nb...I was told you never want settings on auto, because it can give to much voltage to vcore/nb needed to run. So my question is what setting do i chose for AI Tuning, to only change ram voltage and leave everything else alone at stock voltages! Options to choose from are manual, auto and standard...I may also set my ram to linked/synced or just leave that auto??.. then later on when i overclock ill unlink and manually set ram speed.
**Ai Tuning options which to select**

image 1

**Im guessing Auto was selected for Ai Tuning for these settings correct?? But i wouldnt keep my settings like this, because i only want default vcore/nb just for my ram to be the only factor thats changed**

image 2

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Should i enable cpu qfan and chasis qfan and is speedstep and c1e worth enabling?? Does it change back to normal speed when im in game.. thats my main concern, i dont want to be running at a lower speed if i were to be playing crysis. Thanks and much appreciatiated with the prompt replies

You want manual for overclocking
CPU vcore do the following;
Change it from auto to 1.25 and then go to the vcore offset and change it to +100mv.

Your Ram should either say on one the sticks or on the packaging the stock voltage for that is and put your NB at 1.5


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
Actually, I'm at 450 fsb at stock voltage right now and its 100% stable









that's truly freakish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Road_runner* 
I have just ordered an Asus P5N-E SLI 650i. Will Patriot Dual Channel 2048MB PC6400 DDR2 800MHz Memory (2 x 1024MB) work in this MB? It will have an Intel Core2 Duo E6750 2.66Ghz 4M 1333Mhz FSB proc.

Thanks,
Les

I just looked at Patriot's memory configurator...and they don't list this board. This suggests to me that none of their chips have worked in this board. They have the P5N32 and the P5NSLI, but not this board. I'd go with another brand if I were you...if a RAM chip doesn't show up in a configurator you've no guarentee it's gonna work, and even if it does it might become unstable as soon as you start OCing.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
You want manual for overclocking
CPU vcore do the following;
Change it from auto to 1.25 and then go to the vcore offset and change it to +100mv.

Your Ram should either say on one the sticks or on the packaging the stock voltage for that is and put your NB at 1.5

If he's leaving the FSB at stock he doesn't need to go to 1.5 on the NB. Leave it one setting lower than that.


----------



## Asce

Didnt read that part


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
that's truly freakish

I just looked at Patriot's memory configurator...and they don't list this board. This suggests to me that none of their chips have worked in this board. They have the P5N32 and the P5NSLI, but not this board. I'd go with another brand if I were you...if a RAM chip doesn't show up in a configurator you've no guarentee it's gonna work, and even if it does it might become unstable as soon as you start OCing.

If he's leaving the FSB at stock he doesn't need to go to 1.5 on the NB. Leave it one setting lower than that.

450FSB isn't freakish on stock volts, I can boot fine at 450 without any boost in voltage, never bothered to test stability since I was on stock cooling, later on once the winter rolls around I'll see how far this board truly can go with sub-zero air cooling


----------



## TriBeCa

then why can't i post that high on _any_ voltage?

maybe i'll just go back and try again with everything on auto...but i don't hold high hopes.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
then why can't i post that high on _any_ voltage?

maybe i'll just go back and try again with everything on auto...but i don't hold high hopes.

Not sure, might be a FSB wall for you, also try dropping your LDT down to 3x or 2x, I couldn't get it to even post at 5x


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

im getting the e6550 and have the xms2 800 corsair ram.. Im not going to overclock, but i want my ram as optimal as possible.. Do i set it to auto, link or unlink?? Iv read that you unlink for overclock.. If i did 1:1 ratio would overclock my ram to 1333 or would it downclock it to 667?? If so thats way to high? Or am i way off with the 1:1 ratio setting?? I eventually will over clock and set fsb 400 Qdr=1600 and rum ram at 800, i assumed that would be a 1:1 ratio but i was told that my ram would be operating at the same speed as my qdr.. true or not? But anyways, i need more so the information for my ram without the overclocking. Thanks a lot guys, im writing all my notes down and cant wait to tell you how things work out


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


im getting the e6550 and have the xms2 800 corsair ram.. Im not going to overclock, but i want my ram as optimal as possible.. Do i set it to auto, link or unlink?? Iv read that you unlink for overclock.. If i did 1:1 ratio would overclock my ram to 1333 or would it downclock it to 667?? If so thats way to high? Or am i way off with the 1:1 ratio setting?? I eventually will over clock and set fsb 400 Qdr=1600 and rum ram at 800, i assumed that would be a 1:1 ratio but i was told that my ram would be operating at the same speed as my qdr.. true or not? But anyways, i need more so the information for my ram without the overclocking. Thanks a lot guys, im writing all my notes down and cant wait to tell you how things work out










If your not going to overclock, then heres your situation

Leave it all on auto: Should make your ram 800mhz but iffy
Linked and Synched, 1:1 with FSB giving you 667mhz
Linked and 1:1 (this means 1:1 with the qdr) 1333mhz, which I doubt the ram will handle
Unlinked and just set it to 800mhz <=== thats your best bet if your not overclocking your cpu/fsb.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Not sure, might be a FSB wall for you, also try dropping your LDT down to 3x or 2x, I couldn't get it to even post at 5x


My LDT was at 1x and my CPU multi was at 6x. No post over 1760.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


If your not going to overclock, then heres your situation

Leave it all on auto: Should make your ram 800mhz but iffy
Linked and Synched, 1:1 with FSB giving you 667mhz
Linked and 1:1 (this means 1:1 with the qdr) 1333mhz, which I doubt the ram will handle
Unlinked and just set it to 800mhz <=== thats your best bet if your not overclocking your cpu/fsb.


not sure what you mean by linked and 1:1 at 133mhz? With a 1:1 CPU:RAM divider the ram clock (for DDR) is exactly half the QDR speed, or exactly double the true FSB. if the RAM were at 1333 and the FSB were at 333, that would be a CPU:RAM divider of 1:2....


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


that's truly freakish.


Not completely









Check it out:


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


My LDT was at 1x and my CPU multi was at 6x. No post over 1760.

not sure what you mean by linked and 1:1 at 133mhz? With a 1:1 CPU:RAM divider the ram clock (for DDR) is exactly half the QDR speed, or exactly double the true FSB. if the RAM were at 1333 and the FSB were at 333, that would be a CPU:RAM divider of 1:2....


Not sure why yours would be different but on mine, what I said is correct, if I use Linked and 1:1 it runs my ram at the same rate as the QDR.

stock 266mhz Bus speed = 1066mhz QDR
and 1:1 setting gives me 1066mhz Ram

Thats how my bios does it, not sure if somethings just odd with mine. Whatever ratio I choose in linked mode gives me QDR







DR, not the actual FSB:RAM rating like it should


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Not completely









Check it out:




While were at it...


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

ok thnx bro thats what i thought it was.. See thats why i get so confused cuz theres always two different scenerios that people say the 1:1 ratio ends up.. Either the qdr speed or the double true fsb







!! So syncing the ram would downclock the ram, Auto will roughly push it to 800 and i could manually set it... As far as gaming which is my best choice, or just stick to unlink? Thnks









rep pt 4 u


----------



## Sin316

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


While were at it...











you may wanna consider using cpuz 141.0 , so it actually shows the correct voltage.

and as i have learned myself , auto != stock


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

Hey pheoxs i have the e6550, what are the default voltages for the vcore and nb?? I know they say 1.35, but can i go lower if im not overclocking?? Thanks


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


ok thnx bro thats what i thought it was.. See thats why i get so confused cuz theres always two different scenerios that people say the 1:1 ratio ends up.. Either the qdr speed or the double true fsb







!! So syncing the ram would downclock the ram, Auto will roughly push it to 800 and i could manually set it... As far as gaming which is my best choice, or just stick to unlink? Thnks









rep pt 4 u


If you leaving your CPU stock, then run it manually at 800mhz, or what ever your ram is rated at. Once you overclock your CPU it depends on how far you push it really, most people tend to say synched speeds are 'more stable' but I dunno if its been actually proven. For gaming honestly, you won't see much / if any different, its much more dependent on your GPU than ram settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin316*


you may wanna consider using cpuz 141.0 , so it actually shows the correct voltage.

and as i have learned myself , auto != stock











I don't use CPUZ for voltages, never have and don't plan on it, my voltage is set to 1.325 V in the bios and the Vcore offset remains at auto.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


Hey pheoxs i have the e6550, what are the default voltages for the vcore and nb?? I know they say 1.35, but can i go lower if im not overclocking?? Thanks


For your NB use the 1.3xxV option, and for your Vcore, you can use whatever voltage is stable, under volting does not do any damage what so ever, its probably better than stock voltages as it puts less strain on the transistors. You can lower the voltage as much as you want so long as it remains stable.


----------



## Perry

Well, I'm getting there but at this point I'm just happy to be able to overclock.

Info is in my rig details.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


While were at it...











lol I can hit 500 fsb if i pump about 1.4 volts through, but 450 fsb is the sweet spot for me, cause i dont need to touch vcore

EDIT: Old screenshot where I hit 470 fsb


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx* 
ok thnx bro thats what i thought it was.. See thats why i get so confused cuz theres always two different scenerios that people say the 1:1 ratio ends up.. Either the qdr speed or the double true fsb








!! So syncing the ram would downclock the ram, Auto will roughly push it to 800 and i could manually set it... As far as gaming which is my best choice, or just stick to unlink? Thnks









rep pt 4 u

Either synced at 667 or unlinked at 800 will be the best choices.


----------



## rkshelton21

So, I am running:
Mobo: ASUS P5N-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel
Proc: Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz LGA 775
Vid: EVGA GeForce 8800GTS 640MB
RAM: 2x Kingston 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)

I wanted to play some nice Quake4 action... all the reviews such as this one...
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=3
show the same motherboard and processor pulling over 100fps no problem on the HQ settings. But I am only getting ~avg of 20-25fps. Does everyone else get around that range too? Or should I be able to pull more from it. And why do the reviews lie to me!*sob*


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Not sure why yours would be different but on mine, what I said is correct, if I use Linked and 1:1 it runs my ram at the same rate as the QDR.

stock 266mhz Bus speed = 1066mhz QDR
and 1:1 setting gives me 1066mhz Ram

Thats how my bios does it, not sure if somethings just odd with mine. Whatever ratio I choose in linked mode gives me QDR







DR, not the actual FSB:RAM rating like it should


Oh, had no idea the BIOS behaved that way. I've never used the linked settings







If I want my RAM at a certain speed, i'll just set it to that speed....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


ok thnx bro thats what i thought it was.. See thats why i get so confused cuz theres always two different scenerios that people say the 1:1 ratio ends up.. Either the qdr speed or the double true fsb







!! So syncing the ram would downclock the ram, Auto will roughly push it to 800 and i could manually set it... As far as gaming which is my best choice, or just stick to unlink? Thnks









rep pt 4 u


If you're not OCing your CPU, just set your RAM manually to its stock settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


If you leaving your CPU stock, then run it manually at 800mhz, or what ever your ram is rated at. Once you overclock your CPU it depends on how far you push it really, most people tend to say synched speeds are 'more stable' but I dunno if its been actually proven. For gaming honestly, you won't see much / if any different, its much more dependent on your GPU than ram settings.


I was totally unable to get stable on my current OC until I OC'd the RAM to get 1:1 CPU:FSB. So I believe it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rkshelton21*


So, I am running:
Mobo: ASUS P5N-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel
Proc: Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz LGA 775
Vid: EVGA GeForce 8800GTS 640MB
RAM: 2x Kingston 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)

I wanted to play some nice Quake4 action... all the reviews such as this one...
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=3
show the same motherboard and processor pulling over 100fps no problem on the HQ settings. But I am only getting ~avg of 20-25fps. Does everyone else get around that range too? Or should I be able to pull more from it. And why do the reviews lie to me!*sob*


20-25fps seems way too low. Run 3dMark and post your scores on each of the tests (detailed results section of the webpage that comes up). Then we can see if you've got a specific problem. Also, check CPU-z for whether your board is actually usually 16x...could be that the PCI-E slot is functioning as 4x or 1x or something....


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Wow, I'm jealous. I can't seem to get over 1760







You've got a 500FSB capable board there.

There's no NB voltage monitor, and I'm not really sure what stock is either. Just set it manually to what you need for stability....

Not sure about the freeze during DVD encoding.... Could easily be that your system is not stable and you need to bump the vcore a bit. I'm amazed you can into windows at 400FSB with stock vcore.... What multi are you at? 7?

I was just at the 6x CPU, 1x LDT that you suggested for finding the FSB holes.

Okay, so yesterday I rebooted after the system freezing trying to encode that DVD and ran Orthos while I was at work, it ran for a good 8 hours. I'm thinking you are right in that the NB needs more voltage, since my crashes seem to be linked to actual video stress and CPU stress taking its toll on the NB. Is this logic semi-correct? I am trying to learn, sorry to be a pain! To test the NB temp, can I use a program or am I just using my hand to touch the NB heatsink to feel for excessive heat?

While Orthos was running, it didn't seem like both cores were being stressed as I accidentally sat down and just opened up my browser to reply to you. There was no delay in the browser opening, which I figured would be the case if I were running a duo-core stress test. The version I have is from here, do I have to change the "priority" or type of test?

Thanks again! and I hope after I figure out why I am crashing at a lower OC so I can try 500 FSB







My 2nd overclock "test" was actually at 3.5 GHz, which I noticed was unstable when my DVD encoding made the system freeze. I was surprised at how easy it was to get there, being such an uber noober.







I really appreciate the info though man, the CPU overclock alone shed off nearly 30-40 minutes on a DVD encode!


----------



## TriBeCa

TBH, I don't know enough about the demands of DVD encoding to know why that would crash and orthos wouldn't. I'd say run 3 consecutive tests of PCMark05, as that might uncover the problem.

Use speedfan to see whether both cores are stressed. You can easily browse the internet and do basic stuff while orthos is running, just don't try to do anything that uses more than a little bit of the proc


----------



## Perry

Well, I had to back it down due to stability issues which are due to me not having my voltages set properly. When I get a bit more time I'll really put it through it's paces but for now 3.2ghz on the CPU, 960mhz for my memory and an overclock on my video card of 730 core/2.28 memory is good enough.

All of the tests were run again so everything is in my rig info.


----------



## TriBeCa

i'd see if you can tighten up your RAM timings...5 CAS is a real b**ch. i'm willing to bet you can tighten down to 4-3-3-7 or something. Then try to push tRC down as well. Your pi times are crazy long...i get around 17s on 1M, and I don't have my RAM doing anything too crazy.


----------



## rkshelton21

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
20-25fps seems way too low. Run 3dMark and post your scores on each of the tests (detailed results section of the webpage that comes up). Then we can see if you've got a specific problem. Also, check CPU-z for whether your board is actually usually 16x...could be that the PCI-E slot is functioning as 4x or 1x or something....

I didn't buy 3dMark06, just ran the free version, but if I really do need to I will.
*Main Test Results*
3DMark Score9804 3DMarks
SM 2.0 Score4451 Marks
SM 3.0 Score4245 Marks
CPU Score2521 Marks

*Detailed Test Results*

*Graphics Tests*
1 - Return to Proxycon36.464 FPS
2 - Firefly Forest37.722 FPS
*
CPU Tests*
CPU1 - Red Valley0.795 FPS
CPU2 - Red Valley1.278 FPS

*HDR Tests*
1 - Canyon Flight (SM 3.0)38.406 FPS
2 - Deep Freeze (SM 3.0)46.492 FPS


If you need any other information to help me figure this out let me know. Because I am stumped and it is really buggin me.


----------



## TriBeCa

nothing wrong there.... i think if you want more FPS you'll have push your CPU a little harder. and an OC on your GPU can't hurt either....

can you fill out your system specs so they show up in your posts? can't remember what you have anymore ;p

go to "user cp" at the top of the page, and hit "edit system" to the left of that.


----------



## chu

ok i've been reading this board for the better part of the day and i just want to say that all of you are great in the help that you provide for new builders such as myself. I know that my system specs are incomplete right now but i'm hella limited on time... i just wanted to know why my board crashes everytime i try to run anything over 1333/667? i read somewhere on here to just leave the memory alone and keep raising the fsb. i leave all voltages on auto and haven't even touched mem timings.. any advice or criticism


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
TBH, I don't know enough about the demands of DVD encoding to know why that would crash and orthos wouldn't. I'd say run 3 consecutive tests of PCMark05, as that might uncover the problem.

Use speedfan to see whether both cores are stressed. You can easily browse the internet and do basic stuff while orthos is running, just don't try to do anything that uses more than a little bit of the proc









Now I'm confused! SpeedFan is showing my CPU at 47C but my Core 0/Core 1 at around 66C. Is this normal? At stock I was at 36C for the CPU and 41/42 for the cores. This is for idle, btw!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chu* 
ok i've been reading this board for the better part of the day and i just want to say that all of you are great in the help that you provide for new builders such as myself. I know that my system specs are incomplete right now but i'm hella limited on time... i just wanted to know why my board crashes everytime i try to run anything over 1333/667? i read somewhere on here to just leave the memory alone and keep raising the fsb. i leave all voltages on auto and haven't even touched mem timings.. any advice or criticism

Set RAM timings and vdimm manually to stock, make sure FSB and memory are unlinked, and manually set RAM to stock. Timings are the most important--this board auto-detects timings that are looser than stock much of the time, and loose timings can _cause_ stability problems, because the RAM spits out information two late for the system's request. Only change the RAM clock once you have a stable OC on your RAM, or to see if your CPU OC will be stable with 1:1 CPU:FSB ratio. And am I seeing that you have two _different_ 1GB chips in there? I imagine that could cause you some problems...especially if those chips each want a different amount of vdimm at a given clock speed.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sinimeister* 
Now I'm confused! SpeedFan is showing my CPU at 47C but my Core 0/Core 1 at around 66C. Is this normal? At stock I was at 36C for the CPU and 41/42 for the cores. This is for idle, btw!

Ignore the CPU reading--core is the only one that matters. Are you sure it wasn't at load when it was reading 66C? If it's 66C at idle there's a _serious_ problem somewhere.... If 66C is at idle...what did you do between when it read 41/42 and when it read 66C??

Either way...66C is too high for your chip. You don't want it any higher than 60C. What's your vcore at?


----------



## Gauvenator

how do I know what to put for the advanced memory latency settings in the bios?


----------



## TriBeCa

see the guide in my sig, that covers most of them. with the exception of tRC there's basically no performance gain to setting them off of auto, but they can cause stability problems.

if you can, get tRC as close as you can to tRP+tRAS+1. With my current timings of 4-3-3-3 at 850MHz, my tRC defaults to like 30. However, I'm still stable with tRC at 7, and it shaves like 0.2-0.3s off my 1M SuperPi time.


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ignore the CPU reading--core is the only one that matters. Are you sure it wasn't at load when it was reading 66C? If it's 66C at idle there's a _serious_ problem somewhere.... If 66C is at idle...what did you do between when it read 41/42 and when it read 66C??

Either way...66C is too high for your chip. You don't want it any higher than 60C. What's your vcore at?


I'll show ya what I am talking about, took a screeny of my current settings, which finally let me encode a DVD! I am running ORTHOS as I type this:









The only fan plugged into the mobo right now is a PC fan, so ignore that! I do so many formats that I don't bother setting up programs again and again.

The 66 I am talking about was the Core 0 / Core 1 temps(~78) that are very high now - but I am thinking I am missing something. I just picked 3.20 GHz because 3.50 GHz gave me an error in ORTHOS just to make things a little less intense, hehe. Anyway, I set the vcore to 1.5V, the NB to 1.56V and enabled that +100mV option, which seemed to make the system stable. The temperatures do not seem that high, imo.

Did I say thanks again TriBeCa?







Hopefully ORTHOS runs overnight and maybe I can try 3.50 again, and think about overclocking the RAM a bit, which might be the instability issue too.


----------



## Gauvenator

isn't almost 80 degrees celcius going to fry your cpu pretty quick?

try reseating your cooler..or turning down the vcore volts

I get about 50 degrees in speedfan underload (2 instances P95) with my fans turned down till they're quiet.


----------



## Sinimeister

That's what I was wondering though, which of those temps am I worrying about? Temp1 should be my CPU temp - So what are those Core 1 / Core 2 temp readings and why is the Core temp below them a decent 49C?


----------



## Gauvenator

I go with core0/core1. Get Asus Probe and tell what the temp is idle and load with that.


----------



## Sinimeister

You got me nervous there, so I reverted to stock for the time being.

Load:









I don't get why PC Probe II is reporting such high voltage though. I don't think that those Core 0 / Core 1 temps are the actual CPU temps, or else the system probably wouldn't even boot up or would be fried by now, right?

Idle:


----------



## rkshelton21

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


nothing wrong there.... i think if you want more FPS you'll have push your CPU a little harder. and an OC on your GPU can't hurt either....

can you fill out your system specs so they show up in your posts? can't remember what you have anymore ;p

go to "user cp" at the top of the page, and hit "edit system" to the left of that.


How's this?
Also, are all the reviews that far skewed, that I will have to seriously over clock it to get a playable fps? I thought I was buying a system that could handle quake4


----------



## GruntWork

OK, I finally got my beast built... hit the power button and nothing









Based on TriBeCa's advise I half expected this, because the board was new in the box and I popped in a 1333FSB CPU.

I thought I have to give it a try, just in case the BIOS was by chance 0505 or higher. No luck, No POST, No go...

All drives spin up, all fans spin up (including CPU fan, NB and SB coolers), lights come on including Pwr LED, embedded led on the board and Ethernet link light. The GPU fans spin up as well. So I'm guessing that my board is OK and that this is just a failure to POST.

My old board used to make a loud beep when it fails to POST. Can anyone confirm that this is normal bahvior for this board with a 1333FSB?

I guess I have to go and find/borrow a proc to get my BIOS updated, or buy the cheapest $40 LGA775 proc I can find as a throwaway.

Is anyone here in the Seattle area that has a proc I can borrow?










I tried the following:
- Single Video card
- Single Stick of ram
- No other PCI cards etc...
- Single SATA HD (HD light comes on solid)
- No IDE devices
- Tried pulling my hair out, but that didn't help.


----------



## Sinimeister

I just happened to read your post, and although I am no expert... Have you cleared the CMOS and tried from there? Unplugging the PSU, taking out the battery, putting the CMOS jumper into the clear position then let give it a few minutes before you reverse the process. I had to do this on an AMD board I had, it could be similar... worth a shot









And in my testing, when I failed to POST, there was no beeping - but powering off/resetting would reconfigure to a safer configuration.


----------



## thorium

Guys and Gals:

Am newbie to this board (or any other board for that matter), and new to building PCs. Have been worried about case and core temps, but PC Probe has recorded alerts in the log for the 3.3 V and 12 V elements.

Built my first PC end of August (specs hopefully attached to this post). Has been running great until today. The only changes (2 days ago) were removing the drives from the case's sound-deadening drive enclosure and the CPU fan shroud.

The alerts that concern me are the following:
[10/04/2007 at 02:26 pm] +3.3 Voltage Abnormal, 0.02 V
[10/04/2007 at 02:26 pm] +3.3 Voltage become normal, 3.31 V
[10/04/2007 at 05:41 pm] +12.0 Voltage Abnormal, 0.00 V
[10/04/2007 at 05:41 pm] +12.0 Voltage become normal, 12.16 V

I also run SpeedFan, which sounded the alarm about the +3.3V reading, but not the +12.0V reading. Have not modified any of the default PC Probe or SpeedFan configurations. Also, from my configuration info (which I hope is shown with this note), I have overclocked NOTHING, but am hoping to at some point (so far everything runs nicely, including FEAR, BioShock and Company of Heroes with patch 1.08 for DX10).

Has anyone experienced such voltage drops before? Should I be worried? If so, what should I do to prevent this from happening?

Appreciate all the help that you more experienced types can provide.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sinimeister* 
I'll show ya what I am talking about, took a screeny of my current settings, which finally let me encode a DVD! I am running ORTHOS as I type this:









The only fan plugged into the mobo right now is a PC fan, so ignore that! I do so many formats that I don't bother setting up programs again and again.

The 66 I am talking about was the Core 0 / Core 1 temps(~78) that are very high now - but I am thinking I am missing something. I just picked 3.20 GHz because 3.50 GHz gave me an error in ORTHOS just to make things a little less intense, hehe. Anyway, I set the vcore to 1.5V, the NB to 1.56V and enabled that +100mV option, which seemed to make the system stable. The temperatures do not seem that high, imo.

Did I say thanks again TriBeCa?







Hopefully ORTHOS runs overnight and maybe I can try 3.50 again, and think about overclocking the RAM a bit, which might be the instability issue too.

See this page. The thermal specification for your chip is 61.4C. At the temps SpeedFan is reporting you're running a serious risk of damaging the chip. 1.6vcore (which is what you're currently set to) is quite high...definately try to lower that. But seriously, I'd avoid anything higher than 62C on your chip.

However, those core temps are sooo high I'd be more inclined to think it's a temp sensor failure than that those are your true temps. But you don't wanna run the risk....

My recommendation is to go post your temps and details of your case and CPU cooling in the Intel Cooling forum. However, prior to that, there are some questions I can ask:

1) You _do_ have fans on your CPU cooler, right? I notice it doesn't come with them...if you don't have fans on it turn of your computer and don't turn it on again until you've put two 120mm fans on it.

2) Is there any possibility your CPU cooler isn't mounted correctly? Are you absolutely certain all the pins are in right?

3) What TIM (thermal interface material) did you use? How did you apply it? Too much or too little TIM could _maybe_ account for the temps you're seeing.

If none of those three could account for your problem, go post in the Intel Cooling forum. Someone should be able to tell you how to work out if your temp sensors have failed or not.

EDIT: I just read all the posts following the one quoted above. 70C at stock is definately a problem. There's almost certainly one of two things going on: a) your CPU cooler is mounted incorrectly or has no fans on it, or b) the CPU temperature sensor has failed. IGNORE THE "CPU" TEMP (this is the temp of the IHS casing, which is irrelevent for determining what's going to hurt your chip), only pay attention to Core 0 and Core 1. The Core temp you see at the bottom is the temp of your GPU core. Also, TURN DOWN YOUR VCORE. Your Speedfan image at idle shows your vcore at 1.63!!! This is massively higher than needed for stock, or really for any OC you should be considering on air cooling.

P.S. the way people say thanks on OC.net is via the REP system









Quote:


Originally Posted by *rkshelton21* 
How's this?
Also, are all the reviews that far skewed, that I will have to seriously over clock it to get a playable fps? I thought I was buying a system that could handle quake4









You sure they were reporting 100 FPS at stock for quake4? The benchmarks you showed were all within range of mine. I score around 12150, so almost 25% higher, but that's because I've got my CPU OC'd fairly far, with really tight RAM timings. Haven't played quake4 so I can't tell you what my FPS is...but notice that you weren't getting more than 40something FPS in any of those benchmarks either....

Wanna post a link to one of the reviews you were referring to? I can try to see what might account for the difference....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GruntWork* 
OK, I finally got my beast built... hit the power button and nothing









Based on TriBeCa's advise I half expected this, because the board was new in the box and I popped in a 1333FSB CPU.

I thought I have to give it a try, just in case the BIOS was by chance 0505 or higher. No luck, No POST, No go...

All drives spin up, all fans spin up (including CPU fan, NB and SB coolers), lights come on including Pwr LED, embedded led on the board and Ethernet link light. The GPU fans spin up as well. So I'm guessing that my board is OK and that this is just a failure to POST.

My old board used to make a loud beep when it fails to POST. Can anyone confirm that this is normal bahvior for this board with a 1333FSB?

I guess I have to go and find/borrow a proc to get my BIOS updated, or buy the cheapest $40 LGA775 proc I can find as a throwaway.

Is anyone here in the Seattle area that has a proc I can borrow?










I tried the following:
- Single Video card
- Single Stick of ram
- No other PCI cards etc...
- Single SATA HD (HD light comes on solid)
- No IDE devices
- Tried pulling my hair out, but that didn't help.

Buy a chip for cheap, update the BIOS, and then return the chip









I just checked, and there's a cheap-ass Celeron you can buy from newegg (just go to processors - intel, and click on the $20-$50 link) that they'll return for refund within 7 days







As long as you don't physically damage the chip they'll take it back. They say they _might_ charge you a 15% restocking fee, but that'll amount to less than $7.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thorium* 
Guys and Gals:

Am newbie to this board (or any other board for that matter), and new to building PCs. Have been worried about case and core temps, but PC Probe has recorded alerts in the log for the 3.3 V and 12 V elements.

Built my first PC end of August (specs hopefully attached to this post). Has been running great until today. The only changes (2 days ago) were removing the drives from the case's sound-deadening drive enclosure and the CPU fan shroud.

The alerts that concern me are the following:
[10/04/2007 at 02:26 pm] +3.3 Voltage Abnormal, 0.02 V
[10/04/2007 at 02:26 pm] +3.3 Voltage become normal, 3.31 V
[10/04/2007 at 05:41 pm] +12.0 Voltage Abnormal, 0.00 V
[10/04/2007 at 05:41 pm] +12.0 Voltage become normal, 12.16 V

I also run SpeedFan, which sounded the alarm about the +3.3V reading, but not the +12.0V reading. Have not modified any of the default PC Probe or SpeedFan configurations. Also, from my configuration info (which I hope is shown with this note), I have overclocked NOTHING, but am hoping to at some point (so far everything runs nicely, including FEAR, BioShock and Company of Heroes with patch 1.08 for DX10).

Has anyone experienced such voltage drops before? Should I be worried? If so, what should I do to prevent this from happening?

Appreciate all the help that you more experienced types can provide.

Hmmm...this is all new on me. I've never seen trouble with the 12V or 3V rails before. This is probably a PSU issue rather than one specific to this board...you might have better luck creating a new thread in the Intel Motherboards section about this. You'll get a wider audience that way.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sinimeister* 
I just happened to read your post, and although I am no expert... Have you cleared the CMOS and tried from there? Unplugging the PSU, taking out the battery, putting the CMOS jumper into the clear position then let give it a few minutes before you reverse the process. I had to do this on an AMD board I had, it could be similar... worth a shot









And in my testing, when I failed to POST, there was no beeping - but powering off/resetting would reconfigure to a safer configuration.


This reminded me: I also meant to say, failure to POST on this board is frequently silent. You only get warning beeps under certain circumstances. I've gotten them with no RAM installed or with RAM timings set too tight. Also with dead DIMM slots on my first board. I'm willing to bet that you'd get them with no CPU installed as well. But what I think is happening with your board is that the board can't read the CPU's default settings, because the CPU FSB is higher than the board's current BIOS can handle.

I suppose resetting the CMOS could do it...I don't hold high hopes for it, but it certainly can't hurt.


----------



## Chani.-

Where do i put the PLED for my case theres a space where it shouldnt be

| | <--- case connector

|_| <---- MoBo connector with Q Connector


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


See this page. The thermal specification for your chip is 61.4C. At the temps SpeedFan is reporting you're running a serious risk of damaging the chip. 1.6vcore (which is what you're currently set to) is quite high...definately try to lower that. But seriously, I'd avoid anything higher than 62C on your chip.

However, those core temps are sooo high I'd be more inclined to think it's a temp sensor failure than that those are your true temps. But you don't wanna run the risk....

My recommendation is to go post your temps and details of your case and CPU cooling in the Intel Cooling forum. However, prior to that, there are some questions I can ask:

1) You _do_ have fans on your CPU cooler, right? I notice it doesn't come with them...if you don't have fans on it turn of your computer and don't turn it on again until you've put two 120mm fans on it.

2) Is there any possibility your CPU cooler isn't mounted correctly? Are you absolutely certain all the pins are in right?

3) What TIM (thermal interface material) did you use? How did you apply it? Too much or too little TIM could _maybe_ account for the temps you're seeing.

If none of those three could account for your problem, go post in the Intel Cooling forum. Someone should be able to tell you how to work out if your temp sensors have failed or not.

EDIT: I just read all the posts following the one quoted above. 70C at stock is definately a problem. There's almost certainly one of two things going on: a) your CPU cooler is mounted incorrectly or has no fans on it, or b) the CPU temperature sensor has failed. IGNORE THE "CPU" TEMP (this is the temp of the IHS casing, which is irrelevent for determining what's going to hurt your chip), only pay attention to Core 0 and Core 1. The Core temp you see at the bottom is the temp of your GPU core. Also, TURN DOWN YOUR VCORE. Your Speedfan image at idle shows your vcore at 1.63!!! This is massively higher than needed for stock, or really for any OC you should be considering on air cooling.


For my stock settings, all I did was default the vcore settings to auto - I have no idea why it is showing the vcore at that voltage.

And yes







I have 2 x 120 mm fans on my heatsink, which I am fairly certain is properly seated and I used a correct amount of AS5. I guess I can attempt to reseat it, but I'm wondering why it hasn't shutdown at load temps before if the temperature was that high.









Edit- So after reading your post and realizing that my CPU is probably pretty freakin' toasty right now, I quickly rebooted and set the BIOS to default settings. Before, I did a general "reset" by changing the option from "Manual" to "Standard", thinking that would automatically set everything to a safe voltage, along with the bus speed. Somehow the "Standard" setting pumped up the vcore... and now I am getting these temps under load:










I wonder why my temps jumped over 30 degrees then? The idle/load temps at stock seem pretty reasonable to me, although I am only really familiar with overclocking my previous AMD system.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinimeister*


For my stock settings, all I did was default the vcore settings to auto - I have no idea why it is showing the vcore at that voltage.

And yes







I have 2 x 120 mm fans on my heatsink, which I am fairly certain is properly seated and I used a correct amount of AS5. I guess I can attempt to reseat it, but I'm wondering why it hasn't shutdown at load temps before if the temperature was that high.










Never leave it on auto, always manually set your voltages. Check out this thread for the correct amount of AS5

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I go with core0/core1. Get Asus Probe and tell what the temp is idle and load with that.


Coretemp is better and used by a lot on here.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Never leave it on auto, always manually set your voltages.


Cosign!


----------



## rkshelton21

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
You sure they were reporting 100 FPS at stock for quake4? The benchmarks you showed were all within range of mine. I score around 12150, so almost 25% higher, but that's because I've got my CPU OC'd fairly far, with really tight RAM timings. Haven't played quake4 so I can't tell you what my FPS is...but notice that you weren't getting more than 40something FPS in any of those benchmarks either....

Wanna post a link to one of the reviews you were referring to? I can try to see what might account for the difference....

I tried to pick ones that are at least similar to my system.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/458/4
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=3
Also, I tried to change my ram timings from auto which was at (5-6-6-31) to 4-4-4-15 and didn't notice any difference at all. I ran the 3dmark again and had about a 3 point change? Anyway, tonight I will probably try to OC some more on my FSB since I know it can go way higher than my current 2.8 sigh, stupid miss-leading reviews.


----------



## Sin316

@auto, it sets my vcore to 1.55 , while it runs fine at 1.425 ... maybe even lower (too lazy to try atm , i will eventually ... but full load temps are under 50C now , so wth)


----------



## jdogzilla

Hello all, I am a new P5NE-SLI user, and delighted to have found this thread. I am currently set at defaults, and would like to start overclocking. Can someone please outline in simple steps what I should start experimenting with first and testing? I'll post my detailed specs soon, but I have a E6400 and 2x1GBCorsair DDR2-800 memory. Should I start by setting the QDR/DDR or should I start by upping the vcore? Thanks ...


----------



## Asce

Go into the BIOS and go to the right one tab. Set the AI tuning to manual. Go to the option after the voltages and unlink your RAM. Then you should be good to start Oc'ing. What Oc are you aiming for. DOnt forget to manually set your voltages and timings.


----------



## jdogzilla

Done those two steps + memory is manually setup.... I'm aiming to reach 3GHz. So what value should I start with first? And what should I go up to next?

I have OCCT, Speedfan and CPUZ running. What temp should I allow the Core + CPU + MB to go up to? What values are too high for the E6400 chipset?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chani.-* 
Where do i put the PLED for my case theres a space where it shouldnt be

| | <--- case connector

|_| <---- MoBo connector with Q Connector

I have no idea what you're asking for. The power LED goes into the Q connector, yes....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sinimeister* 
For my stock settings, all I did was default the vcore settings to auto - I have no idea why it is showing the vcore at that voltage.

And yes







I have 2 x 120 mm fans on my heatsink, which I am fairly certain is properly seated and I used a correct amount of AS5. I guess I can attempt to reseat it, but I'm wondering why it hasn't shutdown at load temps before if the temperature was that high.









Edit- So after reading your post and realizing that my CPU is probably pretty freakin' toasty right now, I quickly rebooted and set the BIOS to default settings. Before, I did a general "reset" by changing the option from "Manual" to "Standard", thinking that would automatically set everything to a safe voltage, along with the bus speed. Somehow the "Standard" setting pumped up the vcore... and now I am getting these temps under load:










I wonder why my temps jumped over 30 degrees then? The idle/load temps at stock seem pretty reasonable to me, although I am only really familiar with overclocking my previous AMD system.

As others have said, the answer is on vcore. If you're changing your clock speeds, AUTO does NOT equal stock! It was pushing your temps WAY past what your chip can handle.... So as others have said, you wanna push up your vcore bit by bit yourself, and make sure you don't exceed 60C under load.

And use speedfan or coretemp to monitor voltages, never ASUS probe.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rkshelton21* 
I tried to pick ones that are at least similar to my system.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/458/4
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=3
Also, I tried to change my ram timings from auto which was at (5-6-6-31) to 4-4-4-15 and didn't notice any difference at all. I ran the 3dmark again and had about a 3 point change? Anyway, tonight I will probably try to OC some more on my FSB since I know it can go way higher than my current 2.8 sigh, stupid miss-leading reviews.

Are you sure that when you're checking your FSB in quake 4 you're using the same graphics settings they did? Reviewers usually turn everything down--all graphics settings on minumim, and like 1024x768 resolution.

Also, there's considerable variability in 3dmark scores. Running three consecutive tests without rebooting (and hence without changing anything), I got 12164, then 12145, then 12151. So your three point difference could 'actually' be quite a bit larger







I'm sure the timings you're at now make a difference. SuperPi is a much more sensitive RAM benchmark.... From where you are now, I'd say try taking tCL down 1 point (probably won't be stable), then the tRCD (might be stable), then the tRP (might be stable), and then take the tRAS down quite a bit. You should be able to get it down to at least 7 or so...maybe as low as 3. Then try bringing tRC down to ~tRP+tRAS+1.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdogzilla* 
Done those two steps + memory is manually setup.... I'm aiming to reach 3GHz. So what value should I start with first? And what should I go up to next?

I have OCCT, Speedfan and CPUZ running. What temp should I allow the Core + CPU + MB to go up to? What values are too high for the E6400 chipset?

60C on the cores should roughly be your max. 3GHz should be a breeze. Set your QDR FSB to 1200, then move up in 25MHz steps. Each time you do that, boot into windows and run 1 minute of orthos. If you fail to get into windows, have a system hang, or an orthos error, increase vcore a little bit (start it at 1.325).


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdogzilla* 
Done those two steps + memory is manually setup.... I'm aiming to reach 3GHz. So what value should I start with first? And what should I go up to next?

I have OCCT, Speedfan and CPUZ running. What temp should I allow the Core + CPU + MB to go up to? What values are too high for the E6400 chipset?

Try a vcore of 1.25 with the vcore offset set to +100mv, that will bring it to 1.35v. And you will need to enter 1500 for the rated FSB, dont worry about Ram speed for now. Set your NB voltage to 1.5 and see if it boots. If it boots and isnt stable after running Orthos bump the vcore up a notch.


----------



## jdogzilla

Cool ... I'm on my way ... I've started with 1200FSB and vcore 1.325 and testing with OCCT and Speedfan.

I have a couple of other questions for Speedfan ...
1) First there is Temp1, Temp2 and Temp3 ... what are they for?
2) Later on, there is Temp1, Core 1 and Core 2 ... what is the Temp1 here for?
3) Should I be monitoring the Core1 and Core2 temps, or the CPU temp (which I assume is Temp1 or Temp2 from #1)

In the BIOS,
1) What is the multiplier used for? (mine is currently set to x8)
2) Should I leave Virtualization Technology enabled?
3) Is there anything else in CPU Config that needs to be enabled? How does that help?

Finally, I want to add some kind of fan/heatsink to the NB and SB. Any recommendations?

Thanks much


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rkshelton21*


I tried to pick ones that are at least similar to my system.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/458/4
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=3
Also, I tried to change my ram timings from auto which was at (5-6-6-31) to 4-4-4-15 and didn't notice any difference at all. I ran the 3dmark again and had about a 3 point change? Anyway, tonight I will probably try to OC some more on my FSB since I know it can go way higher than my current 2.8 sigh, stupid miss-leading reviews.


Overclocking your RAM won't get you a very noticeable boost in FPS - but you'll see faster loading times. Overclocking the CPU and GPU however, will get that extra boost. Also, the graphic drivers and your particular settings could give you drastic FPS changes with settings that work well for one game, but hinder another. ATI and Nvidia also offer options like "performance" or "quality", which you could play with.

Something I learned from using "auto" for RAM timings also - you'll want to look up the recommended stock timings and voltage for your sticks. Auto also set my tRAS to "31" when my recommended stock setting was "15" - which TriBeCa informed me could also cause stability issues. It might not be unstable now, but having a misconfigured timing like that could only cause instability with a higher overclock.

Sorry if you know all of this, I'm just trying to help you since these guys have helped me out


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


As others have said, the answer is on vcore. If you're changing your clock speeds, AUTO does NOT equal stock! It was pushing your temps WAY past what your chip can handle.... So as others have said, you wanna push up your vcore bit by bit yourself, and make sure you don't exceed 60C under load.

And use speedfan or coretemp to monitor voltages, never ASUS probe.










I'll see what I can do now that I am monitoring these Core 1 / Core 0 temps. I renounce all Asus utilities! The last application I used, figuring they make such great motherboards that their software would be on par - I was terribly wrong. This application (I forgot the name of it, but I can look it up) was constantly putting load on the CPU which slowed my entire system down.

I'll play with my heatsink / AS5 too so I can try to get back into the 30's for stock temps.

Edit - Is there anyway to delete my own posts? I just wanted to combine my last two - it's early, I just woke up


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdogzilla*


Cool ... I'm on my way ... I've started with 1200FSB and vcore 1.325 and testing with OCCT and Speedfan.

I have a couple of other questions for Speedfan ... 
1) First there is Temp1, Temp2 and Temp3 ... what are they for?
2) Later on, there is Temp1, Core 1 and Core 2 ... what is the Temp1 here for?
3) Should I be monitoring the Core1 and Core2 temps, or the CPU temp (which I assume is Temp1 or Temp2 from #1)

In the BIOS, 
1) What is the multiplier used for? (mine is currently set to x8) 
2) Should I leave Virtualization Technology enabled?
3) Is there anything else in CPU Config that needs to be enabled? How does that help?

Finally, I want to add some kind of fan/heatsink to the NB and SB. Any recommendations?

Thanks much


Speedfan:
1) Temp1 is CPU IHS casing temp, Temp2 is MB (we're still not certain where that sensor is, best guess so far is that it'st he average of NB and SB temps), Temp3 is unknown, and on my system never changes from 25C.
2) Temp1 here is again unknown. Core0 and Core1 are the temparature of your CPU cores. These are the temps you have to pay attention to. Ignore the CPU temp reported in BIOS or ASUS probe--these are the ones that matter.
3) See 2)

BIOS:
1) The multiplier determines your CPU clock speed. CPU clock is determined by FSB x multi. Keep in mind the BIOS FSB setting is QDR, so the clock speed with 8x multi is (QDR/4)*8, or QDR*2. So 1500 FSB will get you 3.0GHz.
2) No
3) I leave internal thermal control and stopbit enabled, everything else disabled. These are basically safety features.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinimeister*


Overclocking your RAM won't get you a very noticeable boost in FPS - but you'll see faster loading times. Overclocking the CPU and GPU however, will get that extra boost. Also, the graphic drivers and your particular settings could give you drastic FPS changes with settings that work well for one game, but hinder another. ATI and Nvidia also offer options like "performance" or "quality", which you could play with.

Something I learned from using "auto" for RAM timings also - you'll want to look up the recommended stock timings and voltage for your sticks. Auto also set my tRAS to "31" when my recommended stock setting was "15" - which TriBeCa informed me could also cause stability issues. It might not be unstable now, but having a misconfigured timing like that could only cause instability with a higher overclock.

Sorry if you know all of this, I'm just trying to help you since these guys have helped me out










A notable exception here is that if you OC the RAM clock, you may have to loosen the timings. This is because RAM timings are set in clock cycles--thus increasing the clock speed decreases the real time it takes for the various RAM timings to occur.


----------



## GruntWork

Quote:



Buy a chip for cheap, update the BIOS, and then return the chip









I just checked, and there's a cheap-ass Celeron you can buy from newegg (just go to processors - intel, and click on the $20-$50 link) that they'll return for refund within 7 days







As long as you don't physically damage the chip they'll take it back. They say they _might_ charge you a 15% restocking fee, but that'll amount to less than $7.



Sssshhhh...... I'm going to take the proc out of one of my lab machines at work and use that over the weekend.


----------



## Chani.-

where does the 1394 connector go of my case? im pretty sure its for firewire where should i connect it on my motherboard?

and i have HD Audio and AC'97 Audio Connectors on my case which one should i use?>


----------



## TriBeCa

look in the mobo manual. it shows you were the 1394 connectors are. I've no idea whether HD or AC'97 is better.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GruntWork*


Sssshhhh...... I'm going to take the proc out of one of my lab machines at work and use that over the weekend.


nice


----------



## Chani.-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


look in the mobo manual. it shows you were the 1394 connectors are. I've no idea whether HD or AC'97 is better.


i have looked in the manual and to what i understand the 1394 connector is right beside the floppy connector but my 1394 of my case is not the same type as that one its like the usb cables its not like a floppy cable

if that makes sence


----------



## TriBeCa

you must be reading the manual wrong. i don't have mine in front of me, and i don't use 1394, but the connector is indeed like the USB connectors. I don't remember exactly, but I thought it was somewhere near the PCI slots, or between the PCI slots and the SATA ports.


----------



## Chani.-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


you must be reading the manual wrong. i don't have mine in front of me, and i don't use 1394, but the connector is indeed like the USB connectors. I don't remember exactly, but I thought it was somewhere near the PCI slots, or between the PCI slots and the SATA ports.


thanks i found it i thought it wouldnt fit before because of the sides around it i was looking for a lock in kinda cable







thank you


----------



## chu

Thanks a ton tribeca! i just ordered some ddr2 800 ocz reapers 2x1gb and gonna mix them with the gold 2x512gb ocz and then try some different overclocking from there. How do i find out what is manual stock for those specs that u gave me? i think my ram is 5-5-5-15 but since i have those two different speeds i'm just gonna wait till the reapers come in... also is there a quicker way to test overclocks without having to pop the cmos battery out everytime my bios locks.. my keyboard seems to freeze on some settings and i can't do anything but pop it out and start over again. Thanks again!


----------



## Ravin

Results from my first OC on the Q6600. I am not posting any screen shots as it is not a significant OC, I'll post proof once I've found the max OC.

CPU @ 2.7GHz (300*9) @ 1.2875V, droop to 1.20V Idle/load(high core): 34C/52C Me likey the temps









RAM @ 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T @2.265V- lowered from 1066MHz due to stability issues with CPU OCd. Perhaps it's a timing thing, perhaps a chipset thing....dunno. Any ideas on this are most appriciated. I already tried running looser timings but could not pass Memtest86- Funny that OC on the CPU only affected my RAM stability.

Chipset @ 1.3875V Idle/Load temp 30C/39C

OC Benchmarks:
PCmark05:7306
3DMark06:3923
AquaMark3: Gfx-14001 CPU-16568 Combined-98419
SuperPi 1M: 18s

Interesting notes for benchmarks:
Baseline benches were [email protected] GHz and [email protected] (1:1)
PCMark05:6842
3DMark06:*4708* -_no surprise here due to less memory bandwidth_
Aquamark3: Gfx-*14103* CPU-15200 Combined 96419
SuperPi 1M: 22S

Baseline benchmarks with ATI X800XL 512Mb (which has always been iffy at best)
PCMark05:6694
3DMark06:2310
Aquamark3: Failed to complete due to driver issues...








Superpi 1M: 22s

Edit:next up 325*9=2.9GHz


----------



## henderson_83

Houston I have a problem....

I'm pretty sure it is my PS, but I just wanted to throw it out in this forum to see what all you experts have to say. I just put in my 8800GTS card today and now while in 3dmark 06, performing graphics tests, my computer will just shut down completely. It only does this while in doing intensive graphics it seems like. I can let the computer run with prime95 (OC'd to 2.66GHz for the moment) and it will run 100% stable all day long. However, as soon as I fire up a 3dmark 06 sequence, it may complete, it may not.

My PS is a CoolerMaster Xtreme Power 600W with 2x18A 12v rails, which should be sufficient for this card. All my other system specs are listed below.

What do you guys think? Is my PS flaking out on me? That is the only thing I can come up with since the computer will run all day long if I'm not doing anything graphic intensive on it.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chu*


Thanks a ton tribeca! i just ordered some ddr2 800 ocz reapers 2x1gb and gonna mix them with the gold 2x512gb ocz and then try some different overclocking from there. How do i find out what is manual stock for those specs that u gave me? i think my ram is 5-5-5-15 but since i have those two different speeds i'm just gonna wait till the reapers come in... also is there a quicker way to test overclocks without having to pop the cmos battery out everytime my bios locks.. my keyboard seems to freeze on some settings and i can't do anything but pop it out and start over again. Thanks again!


Look up the timings on OCZ's website, they should report stock for both of those chips. I'm a tiny bit nervous that having two different chip types in there is gonna cause you stability problems, especially if their stock timings/clock speed are different. But I guess you'll just have to try it and see.

As for the cmos battery issue...sometimes hitting the reset 5-6 times in a row when it fails to boot, and then hitting the PSU switch off and then back on, and powering up will work.

The OC failure thingy on my current board seems to work very, very well (I've only had to take CMOS battery out once). When it fails to post (either silently or with a long beep), if I hit the reset switch it posts fine and i can get into the BIOS to change settings. But my last board was more like yours--even if I did post after a failed OC, I'd sometimes lock up in the BIOS. So try the reset button thing...otherwise I'm not sure what to tell you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Results from my first OC on the Q6600. I am not posting any screen shots as it is not a significant OC, I'll post proof once I've found the max OC.

CPU @ 2.7GHz (300*9) @ 1.2875V, droop to 1.20V Idle/load(high core): 34C/52C Me likey the temps









RAM @ 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T @2.265V- lowered from 1066MHz due to stability issues with CPU OCd. Perhaps it's a timing thing, perhaps a chipset thing....dunno. Any ideas on this are most appriciated. I already tried running looser timings but could not pass Memtest86- Funny that OC on the CPU only affected my RAM stability.

Chipset @ 1.3875V Idle/Load temp 30C/39C

OC Benchmarks:
PCmark05:7306
3DMark06:3923
AquaMark3: Gfx-14001 CPU-16568 Combined-98419
SuperPi 1M: 18s

Interesting notes for benchmarks:
Baseline benches were [email protected] GHz and [email protected] (1:1)
PCMark05:6842
3DMark06:*4708* -_no surprise here due to less memory bandwidth_
Aquamark3: Gfx-*14103* CPU-15200 Combined 96419
SuperPi 1M: 22S

Baseline benchmarks with ATI X800XL 512Mb (which has always been iffy at best)
PCMark05:6694
3DMark06:2310
Aquamark3: Failed to complete due to driver issues...








Superpi 1M: 22s

Edit:next up 325*9=2.9GHz


Is the 8800 really so much better than the 7600 that I get _double_ your 3dmark score with my e6400 at stock? IIRC I get like 9k 3dmarks at stock, and 12.15k on my current OC.

RE: having to lower your RAM clock due to OC...you had to lower RAM clock from stock? It may just have been that for w/e reason the board didn't like the FSB:RAM divider you were at. Also...I presume your RAM was at stock timings when you were OCing the CPU, ya?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henderson_83*


Houston I have a problem....

I'm pretty sure it is my PS, but I just wanted to throw it out in this forum to see what all you experts have to say. I just put in my 8800GTS card today and now while in 3dmark 06, performing graphics tests, my computer will just shut down completely. It only does this while in doing intensive graphics it seems like. I can let the computer run with prime95 (OC'd to 2.66GHz for the moment) and it will run 100% stable all day long. However, as soon as I fire up a 3dmark 06 sequence, it may complete, it may not.

My PS is a CoolerMaster Xtreme Power 600W with 2x18A 12v rails, which should be sufficient for this card. All my other system specs are listed below.

What do you guys think? Is my PS flaking out on me? That is the only thing I can come up with since the computer will run all day long if I'm not doing anything graphic intensive on it.

Thanks for the help!










Only other thing I can think of is that the GPU is overheating.... What's the case airflow like? What's your GPU core temp at (the newest version of speedfan will report this)?


----------



## henderson_83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Only other thing I can think of is that the GPU is overheating.... What's the case airflow like? What's your GPU core temp at (the newest version of speedfan will report this)?


Thanks Tribeca. All other temps seems perfectly fine. CPU is at 32C - 36C, MB is at 36C. I just found an easier way to recreate the problem. If I open the ATI Tool and select 3DView to show the fuzzy cube thing, I can watch my +12v rail drop down to 11.84v, I've even seen it drop to 11.80v in some cases and then after a little bit, it will power off completely. Through all my testing my GPU doesn't get above 65C and my case airflow is good. My case temp sensor shows it between 27 and 29C. When not under load (graphical) my +12v stays right at 11.97v. Any other thoughts?

-Todd


----------



## neil_is_the_syndicate

Hi all, my name is Neil.
I've been on my MacBook Pro for a while, but just recently decided to sell it and begin building my gaming rig. So, here is what I got :

Asus P5N-E SLI 650i Motherboard
Intel Core2Duo E6850 3.00Ghz Processor
4GB (4x1GB) PC6400 DDR800 Memory (5-5-5-5-15 or something like that; I might upgrade to 8GB soon)
500GB Western Digital Sata(Sata3?) Hard Drive (MAIN)
320GB Hitachi - IDE Hard Drive (Secondary)
Dual SLI GeForce 8600 GT 256mb (256x2=512) DDR3 (So 2 Video Cards)
400 Watt Power Supply
Windows Vista Home Premuium 64 Bit.
Outputing Display to a Samsung DLP 50" HDTV through DVI to HDMI cable.

Some games installed are BF2142, FEAR, and GRAW:2

I can play BF2142 at full speeds with everything maxed out and resolution set to 1920x1080, FEAR and GRAW:2 go at like 80%-85% speed at 1920x1080 so I lowered it to 1280x720 for those games, and it goes fine and still looks good.

1920x1080 = 1080p; 1280x720 = 720p.

Anyways, I was wondering, how would I go about overclocking the CPU and or GPU(s)? The whole BIOS thing is a bit confusing haha. The computer is running good at stock speeds, but I was just wondering if I could crank out some more juice.

If anyone can help me out like step by step I would appreciate it.









Thanks in advance to anyone that can help!!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *henderson_83*


Thanks Tribeca. All other temps seems perfectly fine. CPU is at 32C - 36C, MB is at 36C. I just found an easier way to recreate the problem. If I open the ATI Tool and select 3DView to show the fuzzy cube thing, I can watch my +12v rail drop down to 11.84v, I've even seen it drop to 11.80v in some cases and then after a little bit, it will power off completely. Through all my testing my GPU doesn't get above 65C and my case airflow is good. My case temp sensor shows it between 27 and 29C. When not under load (graphical) my +12v stays right at 11.97v. Any other thoughts?

-Todd


Ok, well it's not temp related then. And that behavior on the 12V rail seems odd. I'm no expert on PSU issues...you might create a seperate thread and ask around, since your issue is probably not related specifically to this board. Do you have/can you get another PSU to test with?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *neil_is_the_syndicate*


Hi all, my name is Neil.
I've been on my MacBook Pro for a while, but just recently decided to sell it and begin building my gaming rig. So, here is what I got :

Asus P5N-E SLI 650i Motherboard
Intel Core2Duo E6850 3.00Ghz Processor
4GB (4x1GB) PC6400 DDR800 Memory (5-5-5-5-15 or something like that; I might upgrade to 8GB soon)
500GB Western Digital Sata(Sata3?) Hard Drive (MAIN)
320GB Hitachi - IDE Hard Drive (Secondary)
Dual SLI GeForce 8600 GT 256mb (256x2=512) DDR3 (So 2 Video Cards)
400 Watt Power Supply
Windows Vista Home Premuium 64 Bit.
Outputing Display to a Samsung DLP 50" HDTV through DVI to HDMI cable.

Some games installed are BF2142, FEAR, and GRAW:2

I can play BF2142 at full speeds with everything maxed out and resolution set to 1920x1080, FEAR and GRAW:2 go at like 80%-85% speed at 1920x1080 so I lowered it to 1280x720 for those games, and it goes fine and still looks good.

1920x1080 = 1080p; 1280x720 = 720p.

Anyways, I was wondering, how would I go about overclocking the CPU and or GPU(s)? The whole BIOS thing is a bit confusing haha. The computer is running good at stock speeds, but I was just wondering if I could crank out some more juice.

If anyone can help me out like step by step I would appreciate it.









Thanks in advance to anyone that can help!!


Sadly, I don't have time to write out a step-by-step guide at the moment, but I have done in the past in this thread. If you look back one or two weeks and just scan for long posts by me, you'll find it.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinimeister*


You got me nervous there, so I reverted to stock for the time being.

Load:









I don't get why PC Probe II is reporting such high voltage though. I don't think that those Core 0 / Core 1 temps are the actual CPU temps, or else the system probably wouldn't even boot up or would be fried by now, right?

Idle:










I think whats causing your high temps is your voltage. Put your volts to 1.35 and see if it is stable. I don't mean to worry you it just seems your temps are high. Im pretty sure our processors are only supposed to go up to 65 celsius. I only increased my volts to 1.3625 because I was trying to get past an fsb hole.

Try to use 1.35 as long as you can until you become unstable. Ideally, the lowest voltage possible should be used.

If the temps stay high, try reseating your cooler.

Good Luck!


----------



## TriBeCa

he solved this a while back...and yeah, it was indeed the vcore. he had it on auto, and the board was pushing WAY too much vcore through the chip. he's got it stable with 1.4something vcore, iirc.


----------



## LeeVing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Results from my first OC on the Q6600. I am not posting any screen shots as it is not a significant OC, I'll post proof once I've found the max OC.

CPU @ 2.7GHz (300*9) @ 1.2875V, droop to 1.20V Idle/load(high core): 34C/52C Me likey the temps









RAM @ 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T @2.265V- lowered from 1066MHz due to stability issues with CPU OCd. Perhaps it's a timing thing, perhaps a chipset thing....dunno. Any ideas on this are most appriciated. I already tried running looser timings but could not pass Memtest86- Funny that OC on the CPU only affected my RAM stability.

Chipset @ 1.3875V Idle/Load temp 30C/39C

OC Benchmarks:
PCmark05:7306
3DMark06:3923
AquaMark3: Gfx-14001 CPU-16568 Combined-98419
SuperPi 1M: 18s

Interesting notes for benchmarks:
Baseline benches were [email protected] GHz and [email protected] (1:1)
PCMark05:6842
3DMark06:*4708* -_no surprise here due to less memory bandwidth_
Aquamark3: Gfx-*14103* CPU-15200 Combined 96419
SuperPi 1M: 22S

Baseline benchmarks with ATI X800XL 512Mb (which has always been iffy at best)
PCMark05:6694
3DMark06:2310
Aquamark3: Failed to complete due to driver issues...








Superpi 1M: 22s

Edit:next up 325*9=2.9GHz


I'm glad someone with experience is trying out the SLACR Q6600 on this board. I'll be anxiously waiting to see how you do.


----------



## GruntWork

Thanks to help from you brilliant people, I finally got my system built and running. I didn't end up needing a donor CPU to flash the BIOS. I just reset the CMOS and it POSTed fine. The stock BIOS version was 0202, so I flashed it to the latest and t seems stable.

I did some preliminary testing at all stock settings in Vista 32-bit.
Idle core temp is 33C and the highest it got while running PCMark05 was 39C.

My PC Mark score was 7375.

I have about $50 left in my budget. Can anyone recommend a good CPU cooler and NB cooler that will allow me to get some good overclocking out of this setup? I already have a decent SB cooler (at least the biggest that will fit under two GPU cards)

From everything I've read, if I can get the FSB up around the 450 mark while keeping it sufficiently cool, clocking the PCI-E, RAM and GPU's. I think I can get a score over 10K.

I ran 3DMark06 also. I didn't really sit and watch it, but it was up as high as 60 FPS was usually between 30 and 40 fps. I have a 3DMark score of 8268. Although the CPU test in 3DMark was sad at 1-2 FPS.

Has anyone run the tuning function in the nTune Control Panel? And does it actually do anything. I am thinking of running the fine tune setting (appraently takes 3hours) to see what gives...


----------



## brandon6199

I have tried almost everything to hit 500 FSB on this board and my E6550, but I've never tried touching the vcore offset option...

If I played with that a little, would that possible let me reach 500 fsb?


----------



## xlastshotx

Hey, could someone post or send me a picture of the board with a Thermalright HR-05 SLI on it. I have a Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro on my CPU and I need to see if I will have enough room for it. The CPU, North bridge, and Graphics cards are all very close it seems.


----------



## Asce

It will fit as i use mice with a Tuniq Tower


----------



## Miles267

Hi, I've never OC'd a system before and feel like I'm missing out on the true potential of my hardware. Was hoping some of the more patient, OC veterans could assist me in getting me off the ground. I'm currently running the following configuration. Would prefer to start off by OC'ing w/ my existing hardware and not investing any money if possible:

- all default settings in the Asus p5n-e sli motherboard BIOS
- vista ultimate 32-bit
- Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6600
- EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
- Creative 70SB046A00000 7.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series
- 4 GB total: CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034
- default cooling (CPU and heatsink)
- Thermaltake Armor Series VA8000BWS Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
- OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI ATX12V 700W Power Supply
- SAMSUNG 18X DVDÂ±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write, LightScribe Technology Black SATA Model SH-S183L

Thank you all in advance!
-an overclocking newbie


----------



## Ravin

Ok... here it is

PCMark 03: 7603
3dMark06: 3938
Aquamark3: Gfx-13905 CPU 17361 Combined 99298

Idle(low/high):Load(low/high) 34/34C:50/55C Avg:34C/52C

Voltages remain: CPU 1.2875, MCH 1.3875, Vdimm 2.265
Memory remains 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Is the 8800 really so much better than the 7600 that I get _double_ your 3dmark score with my e6400 at stock? IIRC I get like 9k 3dmarks at stock, and 12.15k on my current OC.

RE: having to lower your RAM clock due to OC...you had to lower RAM clock from stock? It may just have been that for w/e reason the board didn't like the FSB:RAM divider you were at. Also...I presume your RAM was at stock timings when you were OCing the CPU, ya?

Only other thing I can think of is that the GPU is overheating.... What's the case airflow like? What's your GPU core temp at (the newest version of speedfan will report this)?

Yea the 8800 is far superrior to the 7600. Double the price, double the performance. Still, it works well enough for my needs now as I am not a "hard core" gamer. Sure I like to play, but running 1440*900 w/AA on and all the other super high res settings is not that important to me.

As for the RAM, well yes and no. It was tried at stock timings (5-5-5-15 2T) overclocked from 1000 to 1066 MHz and at tightened timings 4-3-3-6 2T, 4-4-4-8 2T and 4-4-4-12 2T. I had to return the memory from 1066MHz to 1000MHz to run stable with the CPU running @300*9. (RAM unlinked)

Its definitely not the GPU overheating. My case is ultra big with all rounded cables that are zip-tied neatly to the side. Lots of fans- 2X120mm for the mainflow compartment (CPU/RAM) and 4*80mm for the secondary flow compartment (GPU/HDD/PSU)- one right next to the video card exhausting outside the case. Ambient room temp at the moment is around 63F (it's already cold here- 40F outside).


----------



## Miles267

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Miles267* 
Hi, I've never OC'd a system before and feel like I'm missing out on the true potential of my hardware. Was hoping some of the more patient, OC veterans could assist me in getting me off the ground. I'm currently running the following configuration. Would prefer to start off by OC'ing w/ my existing hardware and not investing any money if possible:

- all default settings in the Asus p5n-e sli motherboard BIOS
- vista ultimate 32-bit
- Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6600
- EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
- Creative 70SB046A00000 7.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series
- 4 GB total: CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034
- default cooling (CPU and heatsink)
- Thermaltake Armor Series VA8000BWS Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
- OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI ATX12V 700W Power Supply
- SAMSUNG 18X DVDÂ±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write, LightScribe Technology Black SATA Model SH-S183L

Thank you all in advance!
-an overclocking newbie

Some additional detail that I failed to provide the first time. My current BIOS settings are as follows:

System clocks
NB PCIE Freq (mhz)=100

Voltage control: vcore volt=auto, mem volt=auto, NB code volt=auto, vcore offset volt=auto

FSB-Memory Clock Mode=unlinked
FSB Mem ratio=auto, FSB (QDR) mhz=auto, actual FSB (QDR) mhz=1066.7, Mem (DDR) mhz=auto, actual mem (DDR) mhz = 800.00
SLI-ready memory=disabled

CPU multi=9, CPU internal therm control=auto, Limit CPUID Value=disabled, enh C1 (C1E)=disabled, Exec disable bit= enabled, Virtualization Tech=disabled, Speedstep=disabled

Chipset: SLID broadcast=auto, LDT Freq=5x

Memory Timing Settings: tCL=4, tRCD=4, tRP=4, tRAS=12, Command per clock (CMD)=auto

Adv Memory Timings: tRRD=auto, tRC=auto, tWR=auto, tWTR=auto, tREF=auto, tRD=auto, tRFC=auto, Async Latency=auto

Spread Spectrum Control: CPU SS=auto, PCIE SS=down spread, SATA SS=disabled, LDT SS=disabled


----------



## xlastshotx

Wow, After hours of trying to OC my E2140 to 3.00Ghz and with no success I finally figured out the problem.
*







DO NOT USE THE 703 REVISION IF YOU PLAN TO OC







*.
I looked around at everyones motherboard revision and almost everyone who had a decent OC was using 608 rev. or older. So I decided to give that a try as a last ditch effort. Before with the 703 rev., I could not get beyond 2.33Ghz no matter how much voltage or anything I would give it. After switching to to the 608 Rev. I bumped up the voltage a little bit set the FSB at 1500 and wala 3.00Ghz easy. Now I am going to see how far I can push it







l . I will post my results soon.

Current


----------



## Asce

Now the trick is to run it with the lowest possible vcore.


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GruntWork* 
I have about $50 left in my budget. Can anyone recommend a good CPU cooler and NB cooler that will allow me to get some good overclocking out of this setup? I already have a decent SB cooler (at least the biggest that will fit under two GPU cards)

For the CPU Cooler I would recommend the Freezer 7 Pro$19.99 You just cant beat the price and it works great. For the Northbridge cooler it seems like the Thermalright HR-05 SLI$19.95 is the one everyone likes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Now the trick is to run it with the lowest possible vcore.

lol I am working on that right now. I got the CPU up to 3.2Ghz (400 Bus 8x Mult)
and it seems to pretty stable. I can't seem to get it any higher, but I am quite happy with a 3.2Ghz Dual core processor for $74.00







.I am lowering my voltage two notches at a time until it wont post or has a problem.

Can someone send me a link to a good CPU stress program that is compatible with Vista 32bit.


----------



## Hammerstein

orthos m8, you can dl it from the download section . i use it to stress test my system and i have vista ultimate 32 bit.

http://www.overclock.net/downloads/1...v20060420.html


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hammerstein* 
orthos m8, you can dl it from the download section . i use it to stress test my system and i have vista ultimate 32 bit.

http://www.overclock.net/downloads/1...v20060420.html

Is there any way to tell what went wrong when the test fails? (to little voltage, to hot, ram error, etc.)


----------



## Hammerstein

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xlastshotx* 
Is there any way to tell what went wrong when the test fails? (to little voltage, to hot, ram error, etc.)


not sure m8, various ways you can stress test using Orthos. Blends does both the cpu & mem , or if you get errors doing this then try testing just cpu or just mem to work out what is giving the error. Im still a nub here compared to most of the other guys so im sure somebody else can give better info for you







.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GruntWork* 
Thanks to help from you brilliant people, I finally got my system built and running. I didn't end up needing a donor CPU to flash the BIOS. I just reset the CMOS and it POSTed fine. The stock BIOS version was 0202, so I flashed it to the latest and t seems stable.

I did some preliminary testing at all stock settings in Vista 32-bit.
Idle core temp is 33C and the highest it got while running PCMark05 was 39C.

My PC Mark score was 7375.

I have about $50 left in my budget. Can anyone recommend a good CPU cooler and NB cooler that will allow me to get some good overclocking out of this setup? I already have a decent SB cooler (at least the biggest that will fit under two GPU cards)

From everything I've read, if I can get the FSB up around the 450 mark while keeping it sufficiently cool, clocking the PCI-E, RAM and GPU's. I think I can get a score over 10K.

I ran 3DMark06 also. I didn't really sit and watch it, but it was up as high as 60 FPS was usually between 30 and 40 fps. I have a 3DMark score of 8268. Although the CPU test in 3DMark was sad at 1-2 FPS.

Has anyone run the tuning function in the nTune Control Panel? And does it actually do anything. I am thinking of running the fine tune setting (appraently takes 3hours) to see what gives...

I would recommend a Tuniq Tower for your CPU, and just reseat the stock HS with AS5 if you haven't already. If you really want you can mod a $3 80mm fan into your case over the HS. As long as you're not using the stock TIM and you keep the NB volts off the highest setting, you'll get way more performance gains out of maximizing the CPU cooling. The Arctic Freezer 7 Pro that was recommended is indeed good, but if you can afford a TT I expect you'll get at least a 5C gain out of it under load, if not more. Put that extra money into the CPU, not the NB.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
I have tried almost everything to hit 500 FSB on this board and my E6550, but I've never tried touching the vcore offset option...

If I played with that a little, would that possible let me reach 500 fsb?

Maaaaybe, but remember: that setting increases your vcore by 0.1V. We have some limited evidence that vdroop is less bad with that setting on than off (i.e. that 1.4vcore with +100mV off suffers slightly more droop than 1.3vcore with +100mB on, even though both are = 1.4vcore). So it might help you. But don't go overvolting your chip.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Miles267* 
Hi, I've never OC'd a system before and feel like I'm missing out on the true potential of my hardware. Was hoping some of the more patient, OC veterans could assist me in getting me off the ground. I'm currently running the following configuration. Would prefer to start off by OC'ing w/ my existing hardware and not investing any money if possible:

- all default settings in the Asus p5n-e sli motherboard BIOS
- vista ultimate 32-bit
- Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6600
- EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card
- Creative 70SB046A00000 7.1 Channels PCI Interface Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Professional Series
- 4 GB total: CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034
- default cooling (CPU and heatsink)
- Thermaltake Armor Series VA8000BWS Black Aluminum / Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
- OCZ GameXStream OCZ700GXSSLI ATX12V 700W Power Supply
- SAMSUNG 18X DVDÂ±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write, LightScribe Technology Black SATA Model SH-S183L

Thank you all in advance!
-an overclocking newbie

Go to "User CP" at the top of the page, then click on "Edit System" on the left hand side. Put all your details in there.

It seems like once or twice a week someone comes along and asks this question. It's a fair question, but as you can imagine the answer each time is the same, and it's kind of long. If you flip back through this thread far enough you can find it.

However, since dpawl seems to be MIA, I think what I'm going to do is create a new thread, which will be a guide to OCing this board. I'll put a link in my sig, and then when anyone posts in here we can refer them there. It won't be designed to deal with every issue that might come up, but will be aimed at users who, like you, haven't OC'd before and want to know how to get started.

I'll get to this soon...but it won't be tonight, and it's my wife's birthday tommorow, so it won't be then either. If you want an answer soon, go read the last 20 pages or so of this thread. Otherwise...wait


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
I have tried almost everything to hit 500 FSB on this board and my E6550, but I've never tried touching the vcore offset option...

If I played with that a little, would that possible let me reach 500 fsb?

*cough*

Help please


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
*cough*

Help please









Umm...I responded...!


----------



## brandon6199

Oh sorry, didn't see that









Thanks though.


----------



## TriBeCa

This is meant to be a basic guide for people with no or limited OCing experience who want to overclock their ASUS P5N-E.

*IF YOU HAVE SPECIFIC QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR OC, AND/OR ARE SEEKING HELP STABILIZING OR IMPROVING YOUR OC, PLEASE ASK IN THIS THREAD, AND NOT HERE.* Basically, I'm the only person keeping tabs on this thread (and that may end at some point!), whereas the linked thread has quite a few P5N-E owners who post there regularly, and that will likely continue for as long as people on OC.net still use this board.

I admit there's a fair accusation of this being a double post, but the originator of the stickied P5N-E thread hasn't been seen on OCN for a while, and if I post this there it's just gonna get lost in the (currently) 380+ pages of that thread. The idea here is to have something we can easily refer people to so we don't end up answering the same question, "How do I OC my P5N-E?" I've seen a lot of these lately, and it makes no sense to answer them all individually. Hence this thread.

So here we go. This guide assumes your system is a new build, but of course you can jump into it from wherever you're currently at with your rig.

*Before Installation*
If you're not installing an aftermarket NB cooler, at the very least you should remove the stock HS and reseat it with AS5 or some other high performance thermal interface material (TIM). The TIM ASUS uses is garbage, and your NB will get quite hot if you OC without reseating.

If there's any chance you'll be using high vcore (>1.5V) or vdimm (>2.2V), you should consider cooling your mosfets. You can see where they are here. I used a set of zalman vram sinks, and they worked great (kudos to Christiaan for that recommendation).

Running 1.568vcore, 2.1vdimm, and 1.56vNB, adding mosfter cooling _appears_ to have dropped temps by 8-10C on the CPU, MB, and GPU. It doesn't make a ton of sense, and there are a couple other little things that could account for some of that change, but it appears that the reduced temp on the mosfets has lowered resistance on them, further reducing temps across the board. Or at least that's the best explanation I've come up with so far.

*Preliminary Steps*
Before powering up your system, look up the following information:
1. Stock voltage for your CPU
2. Thermal rating for your CPU
3. Stock voltage for your RAM
4. Stock timings for your RAM

1 and 2 can be found on intel's site. The easiest way is to look up your chip on newegg.com, look below the picture on the left hand side and click the tab that says "Manufacturer Info." Then click the "Manufacturer Product Page" link. 3 and 4 can be found on your RAM manufacturers site, and frequently printed directly on the memory modules themselves. See the next paragraph for more on RAM timings.

The very first thing you should do when your system POSTs for the first time is go into the BIOS and manually set your RAM timings to stock. The stock timings should be printed on the module itself, or you can find it on the manufacturers website. They typically appear in the form 4-4-4-12, which are (in order) tCL (CAS Latency), tRCD (RAS-CAS Delay), tRP (RAS Precharge), and tRAS (Row Access Spread, I think). You can find these timings in the chipset option under the advanced tab in your BIOS.

Also set the Command Rate to 2T.

_Not setting RAM timings manually is the single most common cause of system instability on this board_, at least amongst the issues I've helped troubleshoot on OCN. The board auto-detects loose timings for most DIMMs, which can cause instability problems even at stock.

Depending on the BIOS version your board shipped with, you should probably update your BIOS. At the time of writing, the most recent BIOS is 0703. However, many people have reported difficulty OCing with 0703. 0608 is recommended, and has unlocked CPU multipliers, which some of the earlier BIOS's don't. Note that if you have a 1333FSB CPU you'll need 0505 or later for your chip to work correctly.

If you have a thumbdrive or floppy drive, follow the MB manual instructions to use the ASUS EZFlash utility. Otherwise install windows first and use the windows utility on your MB CD.

Now, install windows, install motherboard drivers, install video card drivers, and update windows (all security updates, blah blah blah). You can really do whatever you want at this stage, and move on when you're ready to OC.

Software you'll need (google it or search elsewhere on OCN):
Orthos
Speedfan or CoreTemp
CPU-z

I'd also recommend making sure your final OC is stable by running both 3dMark06 and PCMark05 at least three times each. There are some errors that Orthos can miss, especially GFX or HDD problems.

*Prepping the BIOS*
The point of this stage is turn off everything you don't need in the BIOS, to minimize the possibility of conflicts. You can of course tweak this section to your liking, but I wouldn't recommend having C1E or SpeedStep on at this point. I'll also go over how to get the jumperfree config set up and ready to OC.

Advanced Tab

_Jumperfree Config_

AI Tuning: Set to Manual

System Clocks: NB PCIE Frequency: Leave at 100MHz

Voltage Control:
Set vcore to your CPU's stock setting minus 100mV (so, if your chip is 1.325V at stock, set it to 1.225), set memory voltage to the highest value less than your RAMs stock voltage, set NB voltage to 1.393, and set Vcore offset voltage to +100mV (this puts your vcore to stock--we use this setting, however, because there's some evidence that it reduces vdroop on the board).

FSB & Memory Config:
FSB - Memory Clock Mode: Set to Unlinked
FSB (QDR): Set to your CPU's stock FSB. This will typically be 1066 or 1333, unless you have an older chip. _A note on QDR FSB_: QDR stands for quadruple data rate, which is the case for all modern Intel chips. This means that the rated FSB (the value you're setting here) is four times the true FSB speed. People will frequently discuss FSB in terms of the true speed, and it's the true speed that matters for determining the CPU:RAM divider (which your board sets automatically).
MEM (DDR): Set to your RAM's stock clock speed. _A note on RAM clock_: DDR stands for double data rate. This means that the rated clock speed is double the true clock speed. The true clock speed is what matters for determining the CPU:RAM divider. Thus, if in this section of the BIOS you set your FSB to 1600 and your MEM to 800, you will boot up under a 1:1 CPU:RAM divider.

AI Net2: Everything should be disabled

CPU Configuration:
CPU Multiplier: Leave this alone (for now)
CPU Internal Thermal Control: Set to Auto (or enabled, or w/e it is)
Execute Disable Bit: Set to enabled
Everything else should be disabled.

Chipset:
Memory Timing Settings: As discussed above, the first four timings should be set to stock, and command rate should be 2T. All else can stay on auto.
Spread Spectrum Control: Disable everything
SLI Broadcast Aperture: Disabled
LDT Multiplier: leave this alone (for now)

_PCIPnP_: Doesn't matter

_Onboard Devices Configuration_:

IDE Function Setup: Disable everything you're not using.

NVRAID Configuration: Disable everything unless you have a RAID array.

For the rest of this, disable 1394 unless you use it, disable JMicron SATA controller, and leave the rest (or set it for what you need on your system).

The rest of the BIOS is up to you.

Once everything is tweaked to your liking, _save your BIOS settings_. If you have a bad OC and have to reset the CMOS you'll all this. Saving to a thumbdrive or floppy is highly recommended.

*Overclocking!*

Before you start OCing, you need to remember: _always monitor your CORE temperatures, not CPU temps, and do not let the CORE temps exceed the thermal rating for your CPU_.

_Part 1: FSB OCing_
This board has an FSB hole in it. The goal of this section is to find it, and to find which FSB's you can post at so you don't give up later on at a speed you can actually do a lot better than. You can skip this section, but it'll help you get a better OC.

First, go to your CPU Multiplier and set it to 6x. Then set your LDT multiplier to 1x.

Start with a large-ish jump from your CPU's stock FSB. On a 1066 chip, starting at 1400 is probably reasonable. If you have trouble with this first jump, just back off a bit.

Here we introduce the basic OCing cycle:
1. Boot into windows
2. Run 60 seconds of Orthos, on small FFTs (monitor temps!)
3. Reboot and increase FSB again.

Climb your way up in 20-25 MHz FSB increases. If you fail to get into windows because your system freezes, increase vcore by one or two steps and try again. If you hit a point where several vcore increases aren't helping (especially if you're getting a system hang during the 60 seconds of orthos), try increasing the NB voltage to 1.563. You will probably hit this point somewhere between 375-450 FSB. The 1.748 voltage is also an option, but I would only use this with good aftermarket NB cooling, and even then sparingly. It will most likely damage your chipset over time (though it won't kill anything instantly, unless your cooling situation is really awful).

If you fail to POST entirely, immediately record the last succesful FSB you had. From this point on, record every FSB you can POST at, as you're now (probably) exploring the FSB hole. You want to know which FSB's are an option for your board.

Skip the FSB you failed to post at, and go on to the next one. Just keep on climbing until you move through at least 200 MHz (preferably more) without being able to post. For example, on my board I'm unable to POST between 1601-1625 and from 1671-1699. Eventually you'll hit a wall. If you want, you can go back to your last succesful FSB and increase in 5 or 10 MHz increments.

Now you've got this list of viable FSB's, which will be really useful for getting your actual stable OC.

_Part 2: Getting your max stable CPU OC_
Set your CPU multi back to stock, and put LDT multi back to 5x. Also put all your voltage back to where they were before you started. Note that with your CPU multi at it's stock setting instead of 6x, you'll need more vcore to boot at most FSB's.

Start at a low FSB that you tested in Part 1, like the first one you tried. Use the basic OCing cycle I described above, again using 20-25MHz increments. As before, if you run into problems (system hang while loading windows or while running orthos, or a BSOD) increase the vcore, or NB voltage if vcore isn't helping. If you're having trouble with NB volts at 1.563 and you think the problem is NB rather than CPU related, try moving up a few MHz. Some settings are just hard on the chipset for some reason.

Once you hit your goal, or you hit the maximum vcore or core temp under load that you're comfortable with, stop.

Before you consider your system stable, you should run at least 8 hours of orthos, and pass 3 consecutive runs of 3dMark06 (and PCmark isn't a bad idea either). Orthos errors at this point will almost certainly require an increase in vcore. If you feel your vcore is tapped out, then you'll have to reduce the FSB to get a stable OC.

_Stability Troubleshooting:_
Some things I've encountered that can help you get an OC stable if it's most of the way there but it won't quite behave. Other than increasing vcore or NB voltage, that is.

1. Try a overclocking or underclocking your RAM to get a 1:1 divider. This can cause a previously unstable OC on your CPU to become stable.
2. Try reducing your LDT multiplier to 3x or 2x. LDT multi has very little effect on performance (it basically just drives the performance of the southbridge), but it can affect stability.
3. If a 1:1 divider doesn't help, make sure you RAM is at stock clock, timings, and voltage! See the beginning of this guide for more on that, but not having this set right can cause stability problems at stock.
4. Try (just try it) reducing NB voltage, if you increased it at an earlier FSB that you're not currently testing. The FSB hole can create FSB's that might demand lots of NB voltage, but those demands can go DOWN once you get through that part of the hole. And overvolting the FSB can cause stability problems as well.
5. If your RAM is oc'd and you've increased vdimm, try reducing it. I'm fairly certain the voltage regulators on this board are a bit finicky, and sending too much voltage to the RAM can result in undervolting other components, and instability.
6. I'd love to hear other success stories here, and I'll add them in.

_Part 3: OCing your RAM_
This is a generic process, not really specific to this board. You can read around OCN or ask others for help with this. I include it here to highlight the fact that you should get a stable OC on your CPU _before_ OCing your RAM, unless you need to OC the RAM to get stable (see above).

I also recommend tightening up your RAM timings once you've settled on your RAM clock. See the guide in my sig for details on this. In addition to the 4 primary timings and the command rate, you can get substantial bandwidth boosts out of tRC. CPU-z will report what this is set at. As you OC your RAM and/or tighten the main 4 timings, this will get looser and looser. But on my Dominators at least you can get this timing quite tight, and it matters. It defaults to 30 on auto, but I'm stable with it at 7. Win!

That's all for now. Post here if you want me to add/edit anything, or if I've made any grievous errors.

Good luck OCing!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
It seems like once or twice a week someone comes along and asks this question. It's a fair question, but as you can imagine the answer each time is the same, and it's kind of long. If you flip back through this thread far enough you can find it.

However, since dpawl seems to be MIA, I think what I'm going to do is create a new thread, which will be a guide to OCing this board. I'll put a link in my sig, and then when anyone posts in here we can refer them there. It won't be designed to deal with every issue that might come up, but will be aimed at users who, like you, haven't OC'd before and want to know how to get started.

I'll get to this soon...but it won't be tonight, and it's my wife's birthday tommorow, so it won't be then either. If you want an answer soon, go read the last 20 pages or so of this thread. Otherwise...wait









Ok well I was inspired and ended up writing this guide tonight after all









Check it out here:ASUS P5N-E OCing Guide


----------



## |talian $tallion

gj


----------



## Koffee

I'm looking to buy this board, will use this when i get it.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xlastshotx* 
Wow, After hours of trying to OC my E2140 to 3.00Ghz and with no success I finally figured out the problem.
*







DO NOT USE THE 703 REVISION IF YOU PLAN TO OC







*.
I looked around at everyones motherboard revision and almost everyone who had a decent OC was using 608 rev. or older. So I decided to give that a try as a last ditch effort. Before with the 703 rev., I could not get beyond 2.33Ghz no matter how much voltage or anything I would give it. After switching to to the 608 Rev. I bumped up the voltage a little bit set the FSB at 1500 and wala 3.00Ghz easy. Now I am going to see how far I can push it







l . I will post my results soon.

Current

Ive noticed that too. I may try to revert to 0608, but had some problems with the BIOS recognizing the CPU as 600MHz during POST, but actually running 2.4GHz.

So I have tried 350*9=3.15GHz with limited sucess. I was able to get into windows and get a couple of benchmarks before the system locking up. Seems that Vcore has no real effect for stability above 300*9 for me. I really believe that the problem is direcly related to the mosfet regulators, and as many are saying that this board is not a good OCer for the quads.

3.15GHz (350*9) CPU 1.35V, RAM 1000MHz 4-4-4-12 2T 2.26V, chipset 1.56V
PCMark05: 7913
3DMark06: 3956
Aquamark3: GFX:13785 CPU:18220 Combined:100013
SuperPi 1M:16S

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LeeVing* 
I'm glad someone with experience is trying out the SLACR Q6600 on this board. I'll be anxiously waiting to see how you do.

Seems that I've found a wall @ 325fsb. Ive tried various combinations of FSB/Multi at 2.93GHz but not having any luck. I've also tried underclocking the RAM down to 800MHz with varied timings too. It may be the 0703 bios and/or the voltage regulators holding me back. I seem to droop .08-.15V under load- IMO that's a lot of droop, way more than the .02-.05V with the D820.

It's interesting to note that I can run 2.93GHz (325*9) at stock 1.2875V but can't get any higher even with 1.45V on the Vcore.


----------



## Ravin

Good post, and great links! There is one question that I know was posted somewhere in the 382+ page sticky but cant quite recall. You skim over it briefly and that is the FSB hole(s). Do you happen to recall where they are?


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Good post, and great links! There is one question that I know was posted somewhere in the 382+ page sticky but cant quite recall. You skim over it briefly and that is the FSB hole(s). Do you happen to recall where they are?

What you need?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alexisd* 
What you need?

Thanks...but nvm...I re-read and found it. And I think it's may be where I'm stuck trying to get above 3Ghz. I'll try and shoot past it and see what happens!


----------



## alexisd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Thanks...but nvm...I re-read and found it. And I think it's may be where I'm stuck trying to get above 3Ghz. I'll try and shoot past it and see what happens!

Yup just past that and you going to pass that hole.Go for it.


----------



## rkshelton21

You are the man. Great post!
And VERY good to start a new thread.


----------



## xlastshotx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Ive noticed that too. I may try to revert to 0608, but had some problems with the BIOS recognizing the CPU as 600MHz during POST, but actually running 2.4GHz.

So I have tried 350*9=3.15GHz with limited sucess. I was able to get into windows and get a couple of benchmarks before the system locking up. Seems that Vcore has no real effect for stability above 300*9 for me. I really believe that the problem is direcly related to the mosfet regulators, and as many are saying that this board is not a good OCer for the quads.

3.15GHz (350*9) CPU 1.35V, RAM 1000MHz 4-4-4-12 2T 2.26V, chipset 1.56V
PCMark05: 7913
3DMark06: 3956
Aquamark3: GFX:13785 CPU:18220 Combined:100013
SuperPi 1M:16S


I am not sure about how the quads are for OC'ing, but switching from 703 to 608 was a huge difference. I spent hours trying for a decent OC with the 703 bios, but I never had much success. As soon as I switched to the 608 bios I had very little trouble going from 1.6Ghz to 3.2Ghz. I am currently running at 3.2Ghz and haven't had any type of stability issue.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Ive noticed that too. I may try to revert to 0608, but had some problems with the BIOS recognizing the CPU as 600MHz during POST, but actually running 2.4GHz.

So I have tried 350*9=3.15GHz with limited sucess. I was able to get into windows and get a couple of benchmarks before the system locking up. Seems that Vcore has no real effect for stability above 300*9 for me. I really believe that the problem is direcly related to the mosfet regulators, and as many are saying that this board is not a good OCer for the quads.

3.15GHz (350*9) CPU 1.35V, RAM 1000MHz 4-4-4-12 2T 2.26V, chipset 1.56V
PCMark05: 7913
3DMark06: 3956
Aquamark3: GFX:13785 CPU:18220 Combined:100013
SuperPi 1M:16S

Seems that I've found a wall @ 325fsb. Ive tried various combinations of FSB/Multi at 2.93GHz but not having any luck. I've also tried underclocking the RAM down to 800MHz with varied timings too. It may be the 0703 bios and/or the voltage regulators holding me back. I seem to droop .08-.15V under load- IMO that's a lot of droop, way more than the .02-.05V with the D820.

It's interesting to note that I can run 2.93GHz (325*9) at stock 1.2875V but can't get any higher even with 1.45V on the Vcore.


Yeah, the P35 is the chipset of choice for quads... 325 might be a wall for your chip on this board.... definately try 0608 or if that gives you problems an earlier BIOS. .08-.15 is indeed a TON of droop.... if you're RAM's at stock (or underclocked), maybe try reducing vdimm a bit and see if that eases up on the voltage regulators a bit.

also might be worth at least trying 1.75 vNB even if you don't plan on staying there, just to see if it's the chipset that's giving you problems. also, if you increase vNB you might be able to push through a hole (if you are indeed in one), and hopefully reduce vNB on the other side....


----------



## GruntWork

xlastshotx and TriBeCa thanks for the great cooling suggestions. Unfortunately, I wnt out and bought another product for ~$30 before I read your posts. I got the Zalman Ultra Quiet Heatpipe gig http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/...x=193&code=009 and it seems to do the trick. At stock settings it took my idel CPU temp from 33C to 20C and underload it wasn't even breaking a sweat.

I reseated the stock NB heat sink with A5S and added a cheap fan.

So far I unlinked the FSB and Memory, then took the CPU clock to 425Mhz (FSB 1700) with an 9x multiplier and voltage on auto. The CPU idle temp is 29C and after an hour on max load the temp didn't go past 47C (kind of bounced between 46C and 48C). My CPU is at a comfortable 3.825Ghz. I think there is much more in it since others here have taken the cpu clock up to 450Mhz and beyond. The whole problem in this is that my NB is bouncing between 48C and 50C also with auto voltages. I think if go higher than what I have right now, I'll need to start playing with voltages.

My G.Skill memory (PC2-6400 4GB kit) leaves a lot to be desired. It's a cheap-ass memory and I should have gone with something more proven for OC'ing (budget problem







) I couldn't get it better than 5-4-4-8 2T @850Mhz with voltage at 1.92V (manufacturer rates it at 1.8 - 1.9 so I didn't want to go beyond that)

My GPU's are another story. They are generating so much friggin heat that I'm going to need an air conditioner in my case. There are 2 GPU's on each card, so 4 GPU's running at 520Mhz each (stock) are around 60C each during 3DMark06. From all the reviews I've read, apparently they should be good up to about 80C. I'm scared of overclocking them because they are the most expensive things in the machine. I'm thinking that I don't need to touch them since my 3DMark06 score was over 8000.

Is there much benefit to increating the PCI-e bus over 100Mhz? Or should I leave it as is?

I ran Quake Wars at full setting and it was so smooth. However I did notice the occasional glitch as 16xAA. The 8xAA was perfect and smooth as silk.

I'm now going to try and get my hands on the Crysis demo...


----------



## TriBeCa

I wouldn't leave your NB voltage on auto. Knowing this board, and based on the temps you're reporting, I'm guessing it's at 1.75V. See if you're stable with it at 1.56V.

But...are you sure it's going up to 49C? It only seems to be at 34C in the pic you posted.

Did you try taking CPU multi down to 6x and seeing what other speeds you can POST at?

Finally...what are your ambient temps? You must like your place chilly, cause if you're at 20C at idle it's gotta be what...18C at most in there?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


I am not sure about how the quads are for OC'ing, but switching from 703 to 608 was a huge difference. I spent hours trying for a decent OC with the 703 bios, but I never had much success. As soon as I switched to the 608 bios I had very little trouble going from 1.6Ghz to 3.2Ghz. I am currently running at 3.2Ghz and haven't had any type of stability issue.


An unscientific poll of G0 owners has the Q6600 averaging oc around 3.6GHz on air. Mostly these are on the P35 chipset. I think I'm gonna hang out @ 2.92GHz for a little while- break in the transistors to be ocd a little, then I'll try again next weekend to break the 3GHz mark.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Yeah, the P35 is the chipset of choice for quads... 325 might be a wall for your chip on this board.... definately try 0608 or if that gives you problems an earlier BIOS. .08-.15 is indeed a TON of droop.... if you're RAM's at stock (or underclocked), maybe try reducing vdimm a bit and see if that eases up on the voltage regulators a bit.

also might be worth at least trying 1.75 vNB even if you don't plan on staying there, just to see if it's the chipset that's giving you problems. also, if you increase vNB you might be able to push through a hole (if you are indeed in one), and hopefully reduce vNB on the other side....


Yup tried both. I had my RAM underclocked to 800MHz and running 1.8V, chipset at 1.7V, and CPU @1.475V on a couple of suicide runs to hit 3.6GHz. I think it's down to the BIOS or volt modding the board. Good thing I am handy with a soldering gun


----------



## Asce

The only Nvidia board i know that OC quads past 3Ghz is the EVGA 680i A1


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


The only Nvidia board i know that OC quads past 3Ghz is the EVGA 680i A1


That's what I've found too. Hopefully my determination will change that- I fully believe that the problem lies in the voltage regulators, I plan to mod my board with resistors (NOT the pencil mod) if the 0608 bios does not help.


----------



## neil_is_the_syndicate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ok well I was inspired and ended up writing this guide tonight after all









Check it out here:ASUS P5N-E OCing Guide


Whoo. Thanks a million! I'm gonna give this guide a go, and hopefully, I can become all pro like you guys


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

e6550 1.21 or 1.4 for the northbridge running the chip stock?? what exatcly is the northbridge used for?? Thanks


----------



## GruntWork

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I wouldn't leave your NB voltage on auto. Knowing this board, and based on the temps you're reporting, I'm guessing it's at 1.75V. See if you're stable with it at 1.56V.

But...are you sure it's going up to 49C? It only seems to be at 34C in the pic you posted.

Did you try taking CPU multi down to 6x and seeing what other speeds you can POST at?

Finally...what are your ambient temps? You must like your place chilly, cause if you're at 20C at idle it's gotta be what...18C at most in there?


I guess I'm trying to understand this a little better.
- Temp1 is CPU temp
- Temp 2 is NB?
- Temp 3 is SB?

Then there are the Core 0 and Core 1 values.

If the above is true then my NB temp is not high at all and I don't need to worry about cooling it right now.

I usually have our furnace set to 70F (which is 21C). The PC is in the Den and floor is tiled, so that room tends to be cooler than the rest of the house.


----------



## Perry

Very cool. I'll be using this guide tonight possibly...that is if games don't suck me in although I'm thinking that with the HSF I have, 3.6Ghz may be as high as I want to go. I'm running at 55 degrees under full load with Orthos so I have 9 degrees to play with which makes me breathe easy considering the furnace of a CPU I have.


----------



## TriBeCa

good luck!


----------



## Blizzie

This will be a good read even though I've already overclocked it.







*prints it out*


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


An unscientific poll of G0 owners has the Q6600 averaging oc around 3.6GHz on air. Mostly these are on the P35 chipset. I think I'm gonna hang out @ 2.92GHz for a little while- break in the transistors to be ocd a little, then I'll try again next weekend to break the 3GHz mark.

Yup tried both. I had my RAM underclocked to 800MHz and running 1.8V, chipset at 1.7V, and CPU @1.475V on a couple of suicide runs to hit 3.6GHz. I think it's down to the BIOS or volt modding the board. Good thing I am handy with a soldering gun










Heyyy, if you get a good mod going with resistors definately let us know. I suspect you're probably right that it's the voltage regulators holding you back. Actually, I'm starting to suspect that variability in the voltage regulators across boards is a major driving force on who can get stable at ~475+ FSB and who can't (with C2D's, that is).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


e6550 1.21 or 1.4 for the northbridge running the chip stock?? what exatcly is the northbridge used for?? Thanks










If you're running everything at stock, you're fine to leave the NB on auto. You only have to worry about it if you start pushing FSB or RAM clock up, as the board tends to increase the voltage much more than is needed.

Other than the obvious fact that it's used for increasing voltage supplied tot he NB chipset, NB voltage is 'used for' getting your OC stable. As you increase the FSB on your chip and/or RAM, the NB has to work harder to push data through the CPU and RAM, and to coordinate between them, so at a certain part it will start to need more voltage to keep up.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GruntWork*


I guess I'm trying to understand this a little better.
- Temp1 is CPU temp
- Temp 2 is NB?
- Temp 3 is SB?

Then there are the Core 0 and Core 1 values.

If the above is true then my NB temp is not high at all and I don't need to worry about cooling it right now.

I usually have our furnace set to 70F (which is 21C). The PC is in the Den and floor is tiled, so that room tends to be cooler than the rest of the house.


Temp1 is the CPU's IHS casing temp, yes. Note that this temp is basically useless, and it's Core 0 and Core 1 that you care about. Temperature is never going to damage the casing, but it sure can damage your cores







You wanna keep the core temps below the thermal rating of your chip, but don't worry AT ALL about the CPU temp (though it will almost always be equal to or less than the core temps). Temp2 is the MB temp, which as far as we've been able to work is _probably_ the average the NB and SB temps. Temp3 is totally unknown, and as far as I know has NEVER been observed to be anything other than 25C on anyone else board. Ignore it.


----------



## TriBeCa

i guarentee you can get higher than 3.0 GHz on that e6600







though of course that'll also depend on the quality of your CPU cooler....


----------



## Blizzie

Oh yes I can. =P Much higher. It idles at 20C in the morning and when folding/crunching it's 32C. (Only in the morning). It gets a bit warmer after.









I have my NB set to auto. Is that a problem?







Don't have time right now to go back and attempt to change and stabilize it. Maybe during Christmas.

Quote:



Once everything is tweaked to your liking, save your BIOS settings. If you have a bad OC and have to reset the CMOS you'll *have *all this. Saving to a thumbdrive or floppy is highly recommended.


----------



## brandon6199

I cannot get 475+ FSB to even POST on my board...

And also, no matter how many volts I pump through, I just can't seem to get 3.3 GHz stable in orthos on my E6550... my computer just locks up after a few minutes...

Any ideas?







Oh and temps were great, they stayed under 55C under full load at 1.5v


----------



## Ravin

Ok....finally! I have not had enough load testing to officially call it stable, but I think it's there. After reverting the BIOS from 0703 to 0608 I was finally able to get 333*9 (1333 FSB). My next try will be for 1337 fsb









Voltages: CPU-1.45 Chipset 1.7 Vdimm-2.17 Vcore droop to 1.31V
I'm going to see if i can lower the Vcore and chipset and keep it stable

Temps: Chipset-41C CPU(load)low core:62C High core:67C Idle:40C

RAM 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T TRC-21

PCmark05-7684
3DMark06-3949
Aquamark3: Gfx-13970 CPU 18142 Combined-99806

Edit: now testing W/ [email protected] 1.40V, chipset @ 1.56V


----------



## Gauvenator

What voltage should I set my NB to? I've oc'ed the fsb to 1600 mhz, but the nb volts are still on auto....It's stable, but I don't want to pump more volts than necessary..


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


What voltage should I set my NB to? I've oc'ed the fsb to 1600 mhz, but the nb volts are still on auto....It's stable, but I don't want to pump more volts than necessary..


I'd try running it at the lowest setting and testing. I'd also keep it dialed back one notch from the max except for testing/suicide runs. Just watch the temp and keep it under 60C.


----------



## TriBeCa

not sure if auto is a problem for you or not, though it definately could be. what's your MB temp sensor show? e6600 is what, 9x? so you're at 333 FSB? it's probably not a problem, but i'm not 100% sure how it behaves. i'd be really surprised if it was putting your NB on 1.75V for 333, but i suppose it's not impossible. As long as your MB temp is under 45C I wouldn't worry about it









but when you do get around to OCing again (you've got well over 20C to play with!), i'd switch it to manual so you know what it's at.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
I cannot get 475+ FSB to even POST on my board...

And also, no matter how many volts I pump through, I just can't seem to get 3.3 GHz stable in orthos on my E6550... my computer just locks up after a few minutes...

Any ideas?







Oh and temps were great, they stayed under 55C under full load at 1.5v









I can't seem to even approach 450, so don't worry too much









As for getting stable at 3.3 GHz (what FSB? don't feel like looking up the multi for your chip), my first question is what your NB voltage is set at. when the NB doesn't have enough voltage your system will hang like that (though of course low vcore will do it too). if vcore isn't helping, it's probably the NB volts. keep in mind that when you're in the FSB hole, your NB may need max volts or might not post no matter what, but at _higher_ FSBs you can reduce the vNB and still be stable. so you might just have to push past 3.3GHz.

the other thing i would try is setting your RAM to 1:1 timings and testing that.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Ok....finally! I have not had enough load testing to officially call it stable, but I think it's there. After reverting the BIOS from 0703 to 0608 I was finally able to get 333*9 (1333 FSB). My next try will be for 1337 fsb









Voltages: CPU-1.45 Chipset 1.7 Vdimm-2.17 Vcore droop to 1.31V
I'm going to see if i can lower the Vcore and chipset and keep it stable

Temps: Chipset-41C CPU(load)low core:62C High core:67C Idle:40C

RAM 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T TRC-21

PCmark05-7684
3DMark06-3949
Aquamark3: Gfx-13970 CPU 18142 Combined-99806

Edit: now testing W/ [email protected] 1.40V, chipset @ 1.56V

Man you really get a new video card







I just can't stand to look at your quad system and see you getting a third of my 3dMark score!

Let us know how your new test goes







Was gonna say I'd focus on getting the chipset down to 1.56 much more than reducing vcore...looks like you've still got some room on the vcore end of things.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
What voltage should I set my NB to? I've oc'ed the fsb to 1600 mhz, but the nb volts are still on auto....It's stable, but I don't want to pump more volts than necessary..

Ravin's comments are all on track...except I'd add that I think it's _very_ unlikely you'll be able to post at 400 FSB with minum vNB. But as long as you don't go over 1.56 you're fine.

Mind, I did run on 1.75V for three or four months before it became unstable







I thought the instability was temp related (summer came, and ambients went up up up), but I still don't know for sure because that board died when I flashed the BIOS. I suppose the bad BIOS flash could also have been due to having damaged the board....


----------



## Gauvenator

Is there a way to find out the current NB volts to see if it's necessary to manually set its voltage?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Is there a way to find out the current NB volts to see if it's necessary to manually set its voltage?

You would need a volt meter and access to the backside of the board while its running. I'm not sure which leads you would need to contact to get the voltage....Perhaps Pook or TriBeca would know.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Man you really get a new video card








I just can't stand to look at your quad system and see you getting a third of my 3dMark score!

Let us know how your new test goes







Was gonna say I'd focus on getting the chipset down to 1.56 much more than reducing vcore...looks like you've still got some room on the vcore end of things.

Anyone willing to give me thier 8XXX series card is more than welcome to send it my way. Or another 7600GT so I can run SLI. Either way I'm stuck with this card until my next build....once Intel has shrunk Nehalem to 32nm.

Seems that I'm stable @ 1.56V on the chipset and 1.4V on the Vcore. I'm willling to bet that I can turn the Vcore down to the 1.35V range w/o sacrificing stability. Most quads I've seen running 1.4V+ are running 3.4GHz+


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
You would need a volt meter and access to the backside of the board while its running. I'm not sure which leads you would need to contact to get the voltage....Perhaps Pook or TriBeca would know.










whoa that's ok...

I don't really feel like somehow getting behind my board while it's on just to measure the vcore volts lol...







Thanks for the advice on that tho...if I really need voltage I guess I'll contact one of them

As long as my temps are below 60 degrees for the mb in Asus Probe the board isn't pumping too many volts is it?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 







whoa that's ok...

I don't really feel like somehow getting behind my board while it's on just to measure the vcore volts lol...







Thanks for the advice on that tho...if I really need voltage I guess I'll contact one of them

As long as my temps are below 60 degrees for the mb in Asus Probe the board isn't pumping too many volts is it?

I found the spot to measure the Vdimm w/o getting at the back of the board here:

http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=4450&s=12#Scene_1


----------



## Gauvenator

There's no software to measure the voltage?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


There's no software to measure the voltage?


Not that I'm aware of


----------



## Gauvenator

hmmm....but as long as the temps are below 60 degrees celsius, and I'm stable, it should be fine leaving it on auto?


----------



## Ravin

Testing 333*9=3GHz on 1.39V chipset and 1.300V Vcore.....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


hmmm....but as long as the temps are below 60 degrees celsius, and I'm stable, it should be fine leaving it on auto?


I think so. The Key is that 1) you're stable and 2) your Temps are OK. 60C is the max that you should do, although I think that below 50C for 24/7 usage is a lot better for a long lived system.

From what I've been seeing on my board, 1.7V still keeps me under 50C.


----------



## Gauvenator

thanks for all the advice on the nb voltage Ravin


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


thanks for all the advice on the nb voltage Ravin


np









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Testing 333*9=3GHz on 1.39V chipset and 1.300V Vcore.....


One hour stable so far. Definitely the 0703 bios was a factor. I could not run at these speeds even with 1.7V on the chipset and 1.475V Vcore.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*









whoa that's ok...

I don't really feel like somehow getting behind my board while it's on just to measure the vcore volts lol...







Thanks for the advice on that tho...if I really need voltage I guess I'll contact one of them

As long as my temps are below 60 degrees for the mb in Asus Probe the board isn't pumping too many volts is it?


I wouldn't let it run that hot. If you're over 50C you should really think about some better NB cooling, or turning down the NB voltage. If you're on auto, just set it to 1.56 and see if that 1) reduces temperature and 2) is stable. At 1.56 my MB sensor doesn't ever report over 45C, and my ambients are pretty high. Mind I have active coolers on both NB and SB. Still, if you're getting over 55C I'd think about trying to reduce it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


np








One hour stable so far. Definitely the 0703 bios was a factor. I could not run at these speeds even with 1.7V on the chipset and 1.475V Vcore.


Definately good to know. 0703 seems to be a pretty clear loser at this point


----------



## chu

well i got my new ram which is some 2x1gb ozc reapers 800mhz and when i do this i figure i can run a 1333/800 ratio and no dice... anytime i increase my fsb over a 3x2 ratio with the ram at 800 i get locked at bios... 1333/667 runs fine but that defeats the purpose of getting some 800mhz ram doesn't it? i just upgraded to the 0703 bios and to no avail it didn't help at all. tribeca please help! i've turned ram to stock 4-4-4-12-2. would this be caused by improper voltage? the only way i can get this thing into windows is if i put auto on all voltages set the ram to stock speed and then pump 3:2 with 1200:800. i had a 3.0 overclock with the old 667 ram running 1333/667. should i downclock my ram to get a 3.0 again? thanks in advance to u and rep+ for all ur help from earlier!


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


not sure if auto is a problem for you or not, though it definately could be. what's your MB temp sensor show? e6600 is what, 9x? so you're at 333 FSB? it's probably not a problem, but i'm not 100% sure how it behaves. i'd be really surprised if it was putting your NB on 1.75V for 333, but i suppose it's not impossible. As long as your MB temp is under 45C I wouldn't worry about it









but when you do get around to OCing again (you've got well over 20C to play with!), i'd switch it to manual so you know what it's at.


Hehe by the time I get to it.. 12 MB Cache Quads.








MB temperature stays around 35 C according to ASUS Probe.


----------



## TriBeCa

urrrm...so you're stable with everything on auto (with RAM at 800MHz) but not otherwise? try setting each voltage manually one at a time, to figure out which one is causing the problem--my guess is the NB, but it could be something else. if it IS the NB, see if you can get it stable at 1.56V. if not, you *might* try a higher FSB to see if it's an FSB hole problem (very unlikely, but worth at least trying). also make sure that your CPU temp is ok with the vcore on auto.

if you can't get stable with your current setup and reasonable voltage, my best suggestion (more likely to work than a higher FSB, I think) is to set the RAM clock to 890MHz. The board should reduce the clock to 888.9 for a 3:4 FSB:RAM divider, which might be more stable than your current divider (which is 5:6). If you can get the RAM clock up to 1000MHz (those OCZs should be capable of it, though you'll definately have to loosen the timings and up the vdimm--try 5-5-5-15 and 2.3vdimm) you could try a 2:3 divider as well. You could also try 762MHz on the RAM, which would give a 7:8 divider.

Basically what I'm saying here is that I don't know what divider will work for you, but you should try a few 'till you find one







If you ARE stable with all the voltages on auto, though, the first approach should definately be to find out which voltages are stable and exactly how high they need to be for them to stay that way....


----------



## chu

1333/667 no longer working... is the lockup at bios a common problem with ocing? The computer beeps but the screen freezes at the "del for setup tab for bios post message". Aren't i supposed to be able to get into windows and run some tests to see that these are actually stable or not or is this just the growing pains of overclocking? thanks for all the help.


----------



## LeeVing

so how do you go back a BIOS version, i loaded up 0703 when I got it,thinking the latest would be the best. does just updating it with the older version work or are there more steps involved?


----------



## Ravin

333*9 9 hours stable...I'm calling it good

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LeeVing*


so how do you go back a BIOS version, i loaded up 0703 when I got it,thinking the latest would be the best. does just updating it with the older version work or are there more steps involved?


Clear the CMOS before you flash the BIOS- Especially of you are doing it from the BIOS. If you don't, it's likely that you will be told "cannot flash to downgraded BIOS".


----------



## Litlratt

It's only necessary to load BIOS defaults to downgrade.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dragosmp*


Quick question: does the P5N-E SLI work with:

1) Crucial Ballistix DDR667 2x1GB ?
2) G-Skill 2GBPK DDR 800 2x1GB ?

I'm thinking of swiching to Intel since my current AM2 mobo is slowly laying to rest... I'm actually thinking of the P5N-E + a Pentium 2160 and the Ballistix. Would that work and OC decent?


I was *unable* to get any pairs of Ballistix ddr2-800 to work at all. I did have no problem getting a pair of patriot to run in it though.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


It's only necessary to load BIOS defaults to downgrade.


Only if you are using a flash tool from windows. On this board, if the BIOS settings have been set manually then the CMOS needs to be cleared before you flash in DOS-going up or down in version.

And it's agood idea to flash from stock settings, as there is the potential for a bad flash from an unstable configuration.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


I was *unable* to get any pairs of Ballistix ddr2-800 to work at all. I did have no problem getting a pair of patriot to run in it though.


Interesting. I've had no problems from my ballistix- even at insane timings


----------



## Litlratt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Only if you are using a flash tool from windows. On this board, if the BIOS settings have been set manually then the CMOS needs to be cleared before you flash in DOS-going up or down in version.

And it's agood idea to flash from stock settings, as there is the potential for a bad flash from an unstable configuration.


NEVER use a flash program through Windows.
Setting BIOS defaults IS flashing from stock settings.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Litlratt*


NEVER use a flash program through Windows.
Setting BIOS defaults IS flashing from stock settings.


Setting BIOS defaults is different from clearing CMOS. You can manually set your configuration to stock settings, but you still cant flash this board until you clear CMOS. It wont let you. You need to disconnect the power and pull the CMOS Jumper. Believe me I have tried. And it works going up or down in BIOS version.

And I agree....Windows flashes are iffy at best.


----------



## Litlratt

I checked the manual for that board, it says nothing about clearing the cmos to flash. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with that particular model, but I am familiar with Asus boards.
Normally, when flashing through DOS or through the BIOS, all that is necessary is that you load BIOS defaults.
If it is different for that board, and not just yours in particular, then I apologize for possibly confusing someone.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Sweet! Good timing on this one. I am starting a new OC project this weekend on my wife's P5N-E. Thanks, REP+.

I bought her a G0 E6750. Am I insane for wanting to try it out in my rig and give her my QX6700 (B3) for a couple weeks?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Litlratt* 
I checked the manual for that board, it says nothing about clearing the cmos to flash. Admittedly, I'm not familiar with that particular model, but I am familiar with Asus boards.
Normally, when flashing through DOS or through the BIOS, all that is necessary is that you load BIOS defaults.
If it is different for that board, and not just yours in particular, then I apologize for possibly confusing someone.

No worries- I just don't want anyone else going throught the confusion I did trying to upgrade a BIOS. The P5NE SLI can be kind of finiky at times about little details like that.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chu* 
1333/667 no longer working... is the lockup at bios a common problem with ocing? The computer beeps but the screen freezes at the "del for setup tab for bios post message". Aren't i supposed to be able to get into windows and run some tests to see that these are actually stable or not or is this just the growing pains of overclocking? thanks for all the help.

The board is supposed to be able to detect when you have a failed OC, and reboot (after you reset it) with CMOS defaults, but it doesn't always work. I've usually encountered it when there's a stability/compatability issue with the RAM. I saw it a *lot* with my OCZ Platinum Rev 2's on my first board, but only once or twice with these Dominators.

You probably have to clear the BIOS with the battery and jumper in order to get it to post again. The only thing that might work is mashing the reset button about a dozen times, then (if it doesn't reboot the machine) flipping the hard switch on the PSU and turning everything back on. But if that doesn't work you have to clear the CMOS.


----------



## TriBeCa

haha. you could bench both systems with both chips at their max stable OCs, and decide which you want to keep


----------



## Ravin

Voltages: Vdimm:2.17 Chipset:1.39 Vcore: 1.300
Temps: Idle:38C Load (hi core/lo core): 58/54

Memory: 1000MHz @ 4-4-4-12 2T LDT:5x Unstable @ previous timings 4-3-3-6 2T

PCMArk05:7791
3Dmark06:3953
SuperPI 1M: 15 seconds
Aquamark3: GFX:13770 CPU:18193 Total:99894

One hour stable....moving up. PS.....no go for the 1337 FSB. That's ok-it's still 006371337!


----------



## Ravin

Well folks, it looks like 343*9 is the end of the line for my board with a quad w/o some kind of mod. I tried maxing out the chipset and CPU voltages, while underclocking and undervolting my ram, and no combination of multiplier and bus from 1375-2000 (5MHz incriments) is viable.







not even able to POST.

I'm calling it quits for now....perhaps as time goes on and I look forward to another build I'll start modding the board and trying again.

Edit: If you're looking to OC a quad to the max pick another board. If you're staying with a dual core the P5N-E SLI is still a really good board for the price.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
006371337!

"No you didn't!"


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
"No you didn't!"









435 ! d!d


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I wouldn't let it run that hot. If you're over 50C you should really think about some better NB cooling, or turning down the NB voltage. If you're on auto, just set it to 1.56 and see if that 1) reduces temperature and 2) is stable. At 1.56 my MB sensor doesn't ever report over 45C, and my ambients are pretty high. Mind I have active coolers on both NB and SB. Still, if you're getting over 55C I'd think about trying to reduce it.


I idle at around 39 and I don't think I've ever hit 50. Looks like I won't have to set it manually after all....Thanks for the advice everyone!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Well folks, it looks like 343*9 is the end of the line for my board with a quad w/o some kind of mod. I tried maxing out the chipset and CPU voltages, while underclocking and undervolting my ram, and no combination of multiplier and bus from 1375-2000 (5MHz incriments) is viable.







not even able to POST.

I'm calling it quits for now....perhaps as time goes on and I look forward to another build I'll start modding the board and trying again.

Edit: If you're looking to OC a quad to the max pick another board. If you're staying with a dual core the P5N-E SLI is still a really good board for the price.

yup. looks like you hit a wall.

also, re: your other post...are you sure the 1000MHz RAM clock with looser timings gives better performance than a lower clock with tighter timings? if you wanna tweak, I'd try lowering the clock until you can get a tRCD of 3 and then tighten the timings as much as possible (including tRC subtiming) and compare benchmarks between the two.... on a past OC i found that my performance at 850MHz was identical to my performance at 1063MHz because of the difference in timings.


----------



## jerichobp

just bought a whole new system with this board, an e2160, and 2gb of OCZ platinum rev 2. should be here on friday. just one thing, should i have gotten any aftermarket coolers? i know people've said the north bridge runs a little hot, but is it really that bad


----------



## TriBeCa

reseat the NB with a good TIM, that should be a sufficient as long as you have decent case airflow and don't go over 1.56V on the NB. stock cooling on the e2160 will limit the top OC you can manage at acceptable temps, though.

also note that that exact RAM killed 2 of the DIMMs on my first board. I ended up returning the RAM and getting these dominators instead. unless something changed since march, that RAM hasn't been tested as compatible with this board. some people have had no trouble with it, but I have and so have a few others. if you stick with that setup, it's CRUCIAL that you set the RAM timings and voltage to stock before doing anything else, and before you OC you should DEFINATELY run memtest and make sure you're orthos stable at stock settings. if you have no problems there you should be fine to OC...but really, make sure you have no trouble with that RAM at stock.


----------



## TriBeCa

is anyone doing any additional mosfet cooling on this board? i suspect mine or getting a tad hot. my previously stable OC suddenly rebooted on me twice despite weeks of stable operation, and it occured to me that one of my CPU fans (pull fan) was sitting almost on top of the mosfets, and they probably had s**t for airflow on them. I've pulled them off and hopefully this'll remain stable.

but it got me to thinking I might get a RAM heatspreader or something for them, but I thought I'd ask if anyone here is using anything that's worked for them.

edit: actually I just remembered I have a couple of small copper heatsinks I could slap on there. now to find some thermal tape....


----------



## nazarethblue

Hi,

Please forgive the spam. I am new here and I've come looking for OC info on quad-core CPUs. I think my sig shows my present setup. I have read and printed the OC guide referred to above. I've experimented on my P4, then reset the CMOS to the baseline values. I've upgraded from a P5LD2-VM; the CPU is the last thing to buy. Suggestions?

Thanks for info,


----------



## Asce

This would be a good board if you want to run the Quad between stock and 3.0Ghz.


----------



## TriBeCa

suggestions on what, exactly? which cpu to buy, or...?

note that if you're looking to OC a quad, this is *not* an ideal board to do it on, unless you absolutely must have SLI (and even then, I think there's an eVGA 680i board that performs better). if you look at Ravin's results you'll see why. he struggled to get 3GHz on his q6600....


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I'm going to take her E6750. I won't lap it, though. Just in case.

Tell me what you think about a QX6700 on the P5N-E... have you learned anything about how quads OC on this board?

I'm looking for a 10x333 because her case doesn't have the CFM of mine. She's going to have my old CM Aquagate 120, a Tt Spirit II on the NB, and my stock P5N32-E 680i SB HS on her SB (can't believe they left it naked). I expect to run the RAM at 3-3-3-9-1T with tRC at 15. Do you see any problems with that? I skipped the 650i generation, so I'd love any feedback.

BTW, OP: your name is the same as my hairdresser's! Are you in NYC?


----------



## RaiDer

Great guide, no doubt it will prove very helpful to P5N-E owners.

Just wanted to say, with this board and my E6600 beyond 3.33ghz manually setting a vcore voltage won't give me stability, meh eh? What I've found is, if I set the Vcore to auto and enable the Vcore Offset Control to +100mv. I can pretty much punch in any rated fsb and it will boot into Windows with stability.

3.33 through 3.4 to 3.6 on and upwards to 3.8, provided my NB is set at 1.563v.

It's been awhile since I've played around I might just go back over it, I'd much prefer a manually set Vcore. As is, it's really hard to find a truthful voltage readout, according to Everest though I fluctuate between 1.47v and 1.52v. Which would sound about right to me.


----------



## yukmouth

hi guys, proud new owner of a brand new p5ne-sli here. would anyone mind helping me overclock like a professional? my goal is at least 3.33, and i am at 2.6 right now with my ram at 533 to do 1:1. help is greatly appreciated

EDIT: I am now at 3ghz and ram at 667 4-4-4-12 timings with a load of about 42, but speedfab says core0 and core1 are at 51 each? my bios is 0608, again my goal is 1333fsb and 667 ram at least


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yup. looks like you hit a wall.

also, re: your other post...are you sure the 1000MHz RAM clock with looser timings gives better performance than a lower clock with tighter timings? if you wanna tweak, I'd try lowering the clock until you can get a tRCD of 3 and then tighten the timings as much as possible (including tRC subtiming) and compare benchmarks between the two.... on a past OC i found that my performance at 850MHz was identical to my performance at 1063MHz because of the difference in timings.


Been thinking about doing that actually- I think that my timings are pretty tight already @ 4-3-3-6 2T, although it wouldn't run any tighter @800Mhz paired with my D820.

I also tried to OC my 7600GT yesterday, got the core to 661MHz with 4327 in 3Dmark, but my ram won't budge from stock on it. Funny, with my quad and ram linked 1:1 at 1066MHz was my highest in 3D mark- 47xx something (look a few pages back if you want to quote me).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


This would be a good board if you want to run the Quad between stock and 3.0Ghz.


Yup. Personally, I'm happy with the result I got, 600MHz overclock on 0.125V undervolting is a happy result for me. Much longer chip life when it runs efficently and cool, although I would have liked to seen 3.4-3.6GHz like with most G0 owners are seeing with the P35 chipset.


----------



## yukmouth

also heres a pic of a few programs running


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I'm going to take her E6750. I won't lap it, though. Just in case.

Tell me what you think about a QX6700 on the P5N-E... have you learned anything about how quads OC on this board?

I'm looking for a 10x333 because her case doesn't have the CFM of mine. She's going to have my old CM Aquagate 120, a Tt Spirit II on the NB, and my stock P5N32-E 680i SB HS on her SB (can't believe they left it naked). I expect to run the RAM at 3-3-3-9-1T with tRC at 15. Do you see any problems with that? I skipped the 650i generation, so I'd love any feedback.

BTW, OP: your name is the same as my hairdresser's! Are you in NYC?


To start off topic: yes I'm in NYC, and hence the name







I don't live in TriBeCa, but I do rather like the name, so I've been using it online since I moved to NYC.

What I've learned about 650i and quads is that...650i boards don't OC quads well. Neither do 680i boards (or, really, anything that's not a p35 chipset). My understanding is that there's an EVGA 680i board that handles quads ok (ask around here and I'm sure someone can give you the model number, I don't recall offhand), but the p35 chipset is still the best on the market for quads.

Ravin (PM him or talk to him in the stickied P5N-E thread) is a very experienced OCer who recently plugged a q6600 into this board, so you can ask him about his experiences. From what he's said, it looks like he's hit a wall at 333 FSB (x9 for 3 GHz, and it took sime finangling to get that stable). This is _at least_ 25% lower than this board can achieve with C2D's. (i.e. I would be shocked if someone was unable to at least post under 444 with this chip and any C2D).

I'm not familiar with the aquagate CPU cooler you're referring too, but the Tt Extreme Spirit II is great on the NB (it's what what I have, should be fine at _any_ voltage, though I've been told that 1.75V will damage the chipset over time _regardless_ of temps), and any old thing on the SB is fine. Yes, it's shocking they left it bare but it really doesn't seem to heat up much. Mind, we have confirmed evidence that some of the newer boards and RMA boards coming from ASUS have a passive HS on the SB. I have a little VIZO active cooler on it, but I had it bare on a previous p5n-e (RMA'd after a bad bios flash) and I have no reason to believe it caused problems.

One cooling issue I would consider on this board is the MOSFETs. There's no question they run hot, and they're also uncooled at stock. Pook (who is more knowledgeable than I am out about MBs and OCing in general than I am) stated fairly early on in the stickied P5N-e thread that cooling them can help, and I just today encountered two consecutive random reboots on my previously stable OC that I attribute to them. I had had my TRUE in a push/pull config with two 114.7CFM panaflo's on it. After the reboots, as I was trying to make sense of them, it occured to me that the pull fan was literally sitting _on top of_ the mosfets, with maybe an inch of clearance. This would mean there was literally _no_ airflow over the mosfets. So I pulled it out (it made a 2C difference in my totally acceptable CPU temps, so no real loss there) and, lo and behold, my OC seems stable again--the difference being that now some of the air coming off my TRUE and being pulled out of my case by my exhaust fan is passing over the mosfets. Sometime tommorow I'm gonna stick a small passive HS with on them with thermal tape too, just for kicks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaiDer*


Great guide, no doubt it will prove very helpful to P5N-E owners.

Just wanted to say, with this board and my E6600 beyond 3.33ghz manually setting a vcore voltage won't give me stability, meh eh? What I've found is, if I set the Vcore to auto and enable the Vcore Offset Control to +100mv. I can pretty much punch in any rated fsb and it will boot into Windows with stability.

3.33 through 3.4 to 3.6 on and upwards to 3.8, provided my NB is set at 1.563v.

It's been awhile since I've played around I might just go back over it, I'd much prefer a manually set Vcore. As is, it's really hard to find a truthful voltage readout, according to Everest though I fluctuate between 1.47v and 1.52v. Which would sound about right to me.


Ok. Know that the +100mV option does exactly what it says. It adds 0.1mV (alot!) to the vcore you set manually in the BIOS. Based on anecdotal evidence we have from a number of posters in the stickied P5N-E thread here, we're pretty certain the the +100mV option provides _less vdroop than an equivalent total voltage vcore setting_. This is why I recommend using it in the guide I posted here.

So here's what else I'll say about your situation:

1) As long as your NB is at 1.56V and not higher, you have nothing to worry about in terms of the NB as long as you've at least reseated the stock cooler with AS5 and your MB temp reports below 45C. More than that and I'd hesitate to make you any promises myself, but as long as it's below 50C I wouldn't _personally_. Up to 55C I'd be nervous, and more than that I'd _definately_ want to do something about it. For reference, my sig system loads at 45C on the MB sensor, and has a small active copper cooler with single heat pipe in it on it (Tt Spirit II). My _last_ P5N-E was just the stock cooler reseated with AS5, 1.46vcore @ 8 x 400 = 3.2GHz, 1.75vNB. Unfortunately I don't remember the MB temps on that build, but I'm pretty sure they hit 50C at load. It lasted fine for 3 months or so, before it became unstable at around the same time as summer in NYC caused my ambients to rise by several degrees. At any rate, that board died when I tried to flash the bios from 0202 to 0608 (at stock settings!!!). It's not impossible that the bad bios flash was due to damage I'd caused to the NB or to the mosfets, but I also have no way to know for sure. So take it as you will.

2) If you can post on auto voltages, you can post on manual voltages. You just have to find what they are. If software readings of your vcore are fluctuating between 1.52 and 1.47 and are stable, I would say you should try manually setting the +100mV option to on, and your vcore to 1.43X. If that's stable, increase vcore by one step. And then one more. On an e6600 I think you can be comforable up to at least 1.55V (note that I'm running more than that), so long as your temps under maximum load are less than the thermal rating for the chip (61.4C).

Hope that helps.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yukmouth*


hi guys, proud new owner of a brand new p5ne-sli here. would anyone mind helping me overclock like a professional? my goal is at least 3.33, and i am at 2.6 right now with my ram at 533 to do 1:1. help is greatly appreciated

EDIT: I am now at 3ghz and ram at 667 4-4-4-12 timings with a load of about 42, but speedfab says core0 and core1 are at 51 each? my bios is 0608, again my goal is 1333fsb and 667 ram at least


Hi there, welcome to the thread!

From your second post it looks like you're fine at 3GHz, as long as orthos holds up for 8 more hours? Mind if you're looking for a higher OC, don't bother testing 8 hours at 3GHz as you should be able to achieve more....

My advice for now is to look at the OCing guide in my sig and to keep your RAM at stock until you've pushed your CPU as far as you're capable of going (or willing to go).

If you have more questions after that, come back and ask!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Been thinking about doing that actually- I think that my timings are pretty tight already @ 4-3-3-6 2T, although it wouldn't run any tighter @800Mhz paired with my D820.

I also tried to OC my 7600GT yesterday, got the core to 661MHz with 4327 in 3Dmark, but my ram won't budge from stock on it. Funny, with my quad and ram linked 1:1 at 1066MHz was my highest in 3D mark- 47xx something (look a few pages back if you want to quote me).


Perhaps I misunderstood, but it looked to me like you were running 1000MHz @ 4-4-4-12 2T. If you're stable at 4-3-3-6 at 1GHz, then I doubt you'd better performance out of a lower clock...but it looked to me like you were looser than that. Based on my own experience I was suspecting you might get better performance with a slightly lower clock that would allow tighter timings than 4-4-4-12. But I'm not sure you'd achieve much better than 4-3-3-6, if that's what you're at.

If your highest 3dMark score was with quad and RAM at 1:1...that's probably not something to ignore. Definately be aware that the score from a single benchmark has a variance that can easily take you within 100 points or so (at least when you're in the >1200 range), but if 1:1 really pushes your score by a lot more than that, I'd stick with it....


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yukmouth* 
hi guys, proud new owner of a brand new p5ne-sli here. would anyone mind helping me overclock like a professional? my goal is at least 3.33, and i am at 2.6 right now with my ram at 533 to do 1:1. help is greatly appreciated

EDIT: I am now at 3ghz and ram at 667 4-4-4-12 timings with a load of about 42, but speedfab says core0 and core1 are at 51 each? my bios is 0608, again my goal is 1333fsb and 667 ram at least

Do you realise that Trib has an OC'ing guide on the board in his sig.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Yup. Personally, I'm happy with the result I got, 600MHz overclock on 0.125V undervolting is a happy result for me. Much longer chip life when it runs efficently and cool, although I would have liked to seen 3.4-3.6GHz like with most G0 owners are seeing with the P35 chipset.

What's the reason for this board not liking Quads?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
is anyone doing any additional mosfet cooling on this board? i suspect mine or getting a tad hot. my previously stable OC suddenly rebooted on me twice despite weeks of stable operation, and it occured to me that one of my CPU fans (pull fan) was sitting almost on top of the mosfets, and they probably had s**t for airflow on them. I've pulled them off and hopefully this'll remain stable.

but it got me to thinking I might get a RAM heatspreader or something for them, but I thought I'd ask if anyone here is using anything that's worked for them.

edit: actually I just remembered I have a couple of small copper heatsinks I could slap on there. now to find some thermal tape....

Pook helped me with the location of the mosfets if you were wondering. I used Zalman VRAM sinkies.









Below is the quote.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Pook* 
Sure thing.









I'm using ram sinks (for GPU's) and one covers two mosfets...I "only" have 5 on the board instead of giving each their own.


----------



## Asce

I believe its to do with the voltage regulators on the board that limits Quad OC'ing as i believe EVGA sorted it out for the 680i A1.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Perhaps I misunderstood, but it looked to me like you were running 1000MHz @ 4-4-4-12 2T. If you're stable at 4-3-3-6 at 1GHz, then I doubt you'd better performance out of a lower clock...but it looked to me like you were looser than that. Based on my own experience I was suspecting you might get better performance with a slightly lower clock that would allow tighter timings than 4-4-4-12. But I'm not sure you'd achieve much better than 4-3-3-6, if that's what you're at.

If your highest 3dMark score was with quad and RAM at 1:1...that's probably not something to ignore. Definately be aware that the score from a single benchmark has a variance that can easily take you within 100 points or so (at least when you're in the >1200 range), but if 1:1 really pushes your score by a lot more than that, I'd stick with it....



I did run 4-4-4-12 to try and push more MHz on the ram, but it just does not really do any good above 1000MHz with the CPU overclocked. The best I can get is just shy of 1100MHz which does not make a statistical difference with the benchmark scores. The sweet spot is 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 for me, 1066MHz at those timings is stable 1:1 but not running a divider.

Yea 3dmark was something like 400 points more running 1066MHz 1:1, but that is only one bench- Sandra, PCMark, and Aquamark3 all score better at my current settings (1333CPU/1000RAM)MHz- not to mention the real world performance difference. I'd say the 3Dmark "fluke" is more related to how well the RAM-VGA were paired together, rather than the RAM-CPU. Turns out that 66MHz more on the memory chanel @ my timings works out to be about a 2% bandwidth boost for the RAM, thus the better score in 3Dmark, which really tests the videocard and ram more than the CPU anyway.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I believe its to do with the voltage regulators on the board that limits Quad OC'ing as i believe EVGA sorted it out for the 680i A1.


That sucks.

The reason I want the Q6600 is because it runs at 266 FSB (1066) stock. My RAM is DDR2 667 (333). So with the CPU at stock my RAM is underclocked, giving me headroom to OC the CPU. I know my RAM is stable at 700Mhz (350), the speed I have them at currently. The idea was to keep a 1:1 ratio and get the FSB up to 350 (1400), giving me DDR2 700 (350) RAM and 3150MHz on the Quad.

But if I had to go with a C2D instead, I can't. Because the prices of the older models running 1066FSB are more expensive than the new 1333FSB models. With that my RAM will already be running stock speed with a 1:1 ratio. So my OC will be limited even more by my RAM.

I also can't test my RAM's max speed, because my current PD 805 is maxed without running into heat issues.
In a review in a local mag of my RAM, they got it up to 950MHz (475). I have no idea if mine will be able to get that speed. Which is why I'm taking the safer route by having a lower FSB for lower RAM speed.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


What's the reason for this board not liking Quads?









Pook helped me with the location of the mosfets if you were wondering. I used Zalman VRAM sinkies.









Below is the quote.


Awesome pic, I'm going to stick that in the guide so we can easily find it later. I'd found the mosfets, but I didn't realize there were two dedicated to the +100mV option...knowing about those gives a good explanation for why that BIOS option improves vdroop.

And while I don't really know, I thought there was something about the 600 series chipsets just not handling quads as well as the p35's, but I could be wrong.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


That sucks.

The reason I want the Q6600 is because it runs at 266 FSB (1066) stock. My RAM is DDR2 667 (333). So with the CPU at stock my RAM is underclocked, giving me headroom to OC the CPU. I know my RAM is stable at 700Mhz (350), the speed I have them at currently. The idea was to keep a 1:1 ratio and get the FSB up to 350 (1400), giving me DDR2 700 (350) RAM and 3150MHz on the Quad.

But if I had to go with a C2D instead, I can't. Because the prices of the older models running 1066FSB are more expensive than the new 1333FSB models. With that my RAM will already be running stock speed with a 1:1 ratio. So my OC will be limited even more by my RAM.

I also can't test my RAM's max speed, because my current PD 805 is maxed without running into heat issues.
In a review in a local mag of my RAM, they got it up to 950MHz (475). I have no idea if mine will be able to get that speed. Which is why I'm taking the safer route by having a lower FSB for lower RAM speed.


Why not just run a divider? Leave your RAM and stock and do w/e you want with the CPU.

But yeah, I wouldn't count on getting 350FSB on a quad...you might get 333 though.


----------



## TriBeCa

Someone just pointed this out, thought it might be useful to have. Pook posted a pic somewhere in the other thread of where the mosfets are on the board. Thought it might come in handy!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Pook*


Sure thing. 









I'm using ram sinks (for GPU's) and one covers two mosfets...I "only" have 5 on the board instead of giving each their own.


----------



## yukmouth

ok thanks guys, i was actually going to run orthos for the 8 hours







i will take a look at your guide tribeca, and i will try to achieve my goal. if i have any problems ill come ask


----------



## yukmouth

ok, i cant post past 1200. however i did try at 1333 and it posted but froze shortly after. any recommendations?


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

I have these on my board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108094 but it doesn't look like they will work too well on those oddly-positioned mosfets. Maybe these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835108071

Thanks for the info about quads. My QX6700 is B3 stepped which OCs so differently from those sexy Q6600s, so I think I'll be in unchartered territory there. The eVGA board you're probably thinking of is the A1/T1 (same board, different accessories), but I'm not too worried about the board's FSB wall since I get excellent performance with 320 FSB ATM (I can't get higher than 333 on my board, so won't expect that on hers).

+REP for the map of mosfets.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hi, all! First-timer here, but I've been getting tips from TriBeCa on his thread.

My weekend project is to dramatically upgrade my wife's P5N-E. I bought an E6750 for her, but I'm dying to try it on my board (I've never tried a C2D on it), so I'm going to give her my QX6700. At the end of the day, it's going to look like this:

QX6700 (probably 333x10 because her case doesn't have much cooling)
eVGA 8800GTS 320
Antec 650w
Coolermaster Aquagate 120 (again, because her case doesn't have much active cooling)
Tt Spirit II on the NB
My P5N32-E stock SB HS on the SB

I'd greatly appreciate any tips, especially concerning the quad extreme! I'll probably be back in here to bother all of you as the weekend progresses.


----------



## Perry

Fried my memory.

Do the newer BIOS's allow for finer tuning of memory/CPU voltage? .25v+ is obviously too much difference.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yukmouth* 
ok, i cant post past 1200. however i did try at 1333 and it posted but froze shortly after. any recommendations?

what vcore and vNB were you at at 1333? it probably just needed more juice. if you're having trouble around 1200 it could only be due to your CPU, there's no _way_ the board's giving a C2D trouble at those speeds.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Fried my memory.

Do the newer BIOS's allow for finer tuning of memory/CPU voltage? .25v+ is obviously too much difference.

Umm...I'm not aware of anything that does voltage jumps that big. Even the NB increases by less than 0.2v. CPU increases on all BIOSes I've used are 0.00625, and the vdimm increases are a bit random but all <0.1v.


----------



## yukmouth

i believe the nb was at 1.5 somthing, and vcore at 1.350


----------



## TriBeCa

keep trying 1333 with more and more vcore until you can get into windows. Just make sure you keep your CPU temp under 61C.

edit: actually I'd try pushing vcore up at 1200 first, you really should be able to post there...unless there's an FSB hole in your chip that I'm unaware of.


----------



## yukmouth

thanks tribeca, i will try that as soon as i get off work at 4pm. ill be sure to let u know how it goes. also, i followed your guide, and put +100mv on and have my vcore at 1.250 right now.(that makes it 1.350 correct?) and i am able to post and run windows great at 1200fsb.


----------



## TriBeCa

ok good, thought you said you couldn't get over 1200.

and yeah, 1.25+100mV makes it 1.35.


----------



## yukmouth

ok tribeca, it posted at 1.45 vcore and 1.5 nb, at 1333fsb however after a few minutes of orthos it stopped and had an error. i was monitoring temps and all stayed below 50

edit: actually im running on it right now and i dont see any problems. my idle is 33? maybe this has to do with my ram timings?


----------



## TriBeCa

You could save some money and get these instead. I just ordered some myself







Others have confirmed that they fit


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Umm...I'm not aware of anything that does voltage jumps that big. Even the NB increases by less than 0.2v. CPU increases on all BIOSes I've used are 0.00625, and the vdimm increases are a bit random but all <0.1v.

Riiiiiiight. That's what I get for trying to work and goof off at the same time.

Still not sure what happened. Memory or memory controller. Either way I'm not a happy camper if it's the memory controller.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yukmouth* 
ok tribeca, it posted at 1.45 vcore and 1.5 nb, at 1333fsb however after a few minutes of orthos it stopped and had an error. i was monitoring temps and all stayed below 50

edit: actually im running on it right now and i dont see any problems. my idle is 33? maybe this has to do with my ram timings?

orthos error like that almost certainly means you need a bit more vcore. just keep your RAM at stock timings for now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Riiiiiiight. That's what I get for trying to work and goof off at the same time.

Still not sure what happened. Memory or memory controller. Either way I'm not a happy camper if it's the memory controller.









did you try posting with only one ram stick in? did you try them both in all 4 slots?


----------



## mcogan10

completely off topic, but this board is amazingly easy to overclock. as a suicide run on stock, i put the fsb at 400, the vcore at 1.35, and the northbridge at 1.393. it booted easily. this is an amazing overclocker.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
did you try posting with only one ram stick in? did you try them both in all 4 slots?

Not yet. I'll be giving that a shot when I get home and will let you know how it went.


----------



## yukmouth

ok raising vcore fixed the errors, however core temps were in upper 50's. i think im going to back off to 1200fsb until i get better cooling. thanks for all of your help i learned a few things thats for sure


----------



## Eddie3dfx

I was using an evga 680i before I purchased this card. I was able to overclock my x3210/2gb crucial 1066 to 3500mhz (1750fsb) and at stock memory settings.
The problem with the evga, is small adjustments like adding a fan would kill the board. After 5+ rmas, I had to get rid of it.
I was running the board at 1.55v, memory at 2.3v, 4-4-4-12 settings.
So I figure I would get a cheaper sli alternative and ditch the evga. Since I use 2 8800 boards, I needed to get sli.

I've tried everything to overclock on this bios and I've had zero luck. The only luck I've had is through their stock oc settings and with 20% being it's top overclock (2580) I believe..

I've tried memory at 800, 850, and 1000. fsb from 1300-1750 and zero luck (probably cleared cmos 30x) went from early bios to every bios flashed through dos)
I've disabled most things in the bios, set voltage from 1.4-1.56, 100mah on, 2.2v-2.3v memory, and nb 1.5-1.76
set the L something setting from 3-5x
I've searched for x3210 settings on all the sites, but I haven't found any on this board...


----------



## RaiDer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ok. Know that the +100mV option does exactly what it says. It adds 0.1mV (alot!) to the vcore you set manually in the BIOS. Based on anecdotal evidence we have from a number of posters in the stickied P5N-E thread here, we're pretty certain the the +100mV option provides _less vdroop than an equivalent total voltage vcore setting_. This is why I recommend using it in the guide I posted here.

So here's what else I'll say about your situation:

1) As long as your NB is at 1.56V and not higher, you have nothing to worry about in terms of the NB as long as you've at least reseated the stock cooler with AS5 and your MB temp reports below 45C. More than that and I'd hesitate to make you any promises myself, but as long as it's below 50C I wouldn't _personally_. Up to 55C I'd be nervous, and more than that I'd _definately_ want to do something about it. For reference, my sig system loads at 45C on the MB sensor, and has a small active copper cooler with single heat pipe in it on it (Tt Spirit II). My _last_ P5N-E was just the stock cooler reseated with AS5, 1.46vcore @ 8 x 400 = 3.2GHz, 1.75vNB. Unfortunately I don't remember the MB temps on that build, but I'm pretty sure they hit 50C at load. It lasted fine for 3 months or so, before it became unstable at around the same time as summer in NYC caused my ambients to rise by several degrees. At any rate, that board died when I tried to flash the bios from 0202 to 0608 (at stock settings!!!). It's not impossible that the bad bios flash was due to damage I'd caused to the NB or to the mosfets, but I also have no way to know for sure. So take it as you will.

2) If you can post on auto voltages, you can post on manual voltages. You just have to find what they are. If software readings of your vcore are fluctuating between 1.52 and 1.47 and are stable, I would say you should try manually setting the +100mV option to on, and your vcore to 1.43X. If that's stable, increase vcore by one step. And then one more. On an e6600 I think you can be comforable up to at least 1.55V (note that I'm running more than that), so long as your temps under maximum load are less than the thermal rating for the chip (61.4C).

Hope that helps.


Awesome thanks for the info and the advice, will definitely get put to good use








. I'd say as is I've got some pretty comfy temps, I think I'l get to tinkering again at the weekend. I wanna reinstall my Tuniq first got some AS5 recently, I'l whip the mobo stock cooler off at the same time and apply it to that to just for good measure. Thanx again dude.

I'l probably post again, during the weekend if I find the time to get down to doing it.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


completely off topic, but this board is amazingly easy to overclock. as a suicide run on stock, i put the fsb at 400, the vcore at 1.35, and the northbridge at 1.393. it booted easily. this is an amazing overclocker.


yah I know it's crazy!!









I was messing around the other day to see if I could get 3ghz and it did it with ease. I just like to keep a 1:1 ratio so I keep it at 400mhz.









It's been stable so far and I love this board!!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
completely off topic, but this board is amazingly easy to overclock. as a suicide run on stock, i put the fsb at 400, the vcore at 1.35, and the northbridge at 1.393. it booted easily. this is an amazing overclocker.

that's not off topic!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *yukmouth* 
ok raising vcore fixed the errors, however core temps were in upper 50's. i think im going to back off to 1200fsb until i get better cooling. thanks for all of your help i learned a few things thats for sure









how long you gonna keep that e4400 for? unless you want it for 5 more years, hitting the upper 50s under orthos load isn't gonna kill it









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Eddie3dfx* 
I was using an evga 680i before I purchased this card. I was able to overclock my x3210/2gb crucial 1066 to 3500mhz (1750fsb) and at stock memory settings.
The problem with the evga, is small adjustments like adding a fan would kill the board. After 5+ rmas, I had to get rid of it.
I was running the board at 1.55v, memory at 2.3v, 4-4-4-12 settings.
So I figure I would get a cheaper sli alternative and ditch the evga. Since I use 2 8800 boards, I needed to get sli.

I've tried everything to overclock on this bios and I've had zero luck. The only luck I've had is through their stock oc settings and with 20% being it's top overclock (2580) I believe..

I've tried memory at 800, 850, and 1000. fsb from 1300-1750 and zero luck (probably cleared cmos 30x) went from early bios to every bios flashed through dos)
I've disabled most things in the bios, set voltage from 1.4-1.56, 100mah on, 2.2v-2.3v memory, and nb 1.5-1.76
set the L something setting from 3-5x
I've searched for x3210 settings on all the sites, but I haven't found any on this board...

Odd...there must be something wrong your board? Mind, if you had vcore at 1.56 and had the +100mV setting on you could very well have damaged something.

I'd suggest FSB overclocking so you can see exactly where you hit problems.... See the guide in my sig for details.

Also make sure you're not on the 0703 BIOS--lots of people have reported trouble OCing with that BIOS. Use 0608 or earlier.


----------



## lorenasa

Thanks for the guide. I printed it off and am going to try and follow it. Wish me luck as it will be my first attempt at overclocking


----------



## Gauvenator

Has anyone heard anything bad about the 0505 BIOS?


----------



## TriBeCa

IIRC it doesn't have unlocked CPU multis, but I haven't used it myself. I think I've seen people around with decent OCs on it, but I don't totally remember.


----------



## Perry

This memory is so picky. I reseated it, ran memtest and tada! Instant goodness. I'm still pretty worried about that buzzing though. I haven't heard it since everything was put back to my last stable overclock.

Oddly enough when I first put the memory in when I bought it, it wouldn't post. I moved the sticks to the 2nd set of slots, it wouldn't post, tried them one at a time without any problems, put the 2nd one in, it wouldn't post. Moved them back to the original slots and everything's been working great up until now.

Obviously that voltage is a bit much for my memory. I'd be happy if I could get it to DDR2-1000 though.

Anywho, even though that scared the crap about of me...back to overclocking.


----------



## TriBeCa

glad you didn't kill 'em









some kinda cooling on the vdimm mosfets might not be a bad idea


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

so this isnt an overclock ?, but Im having an issue getting into my bios!! im only able to post with 1 gig stick xms2, but i cant enter the bios with the delete key, ive tried 2 keyboards so far and nothing has been loaded (software) as of yet.. Please help!


----------



## yukmouth

hmm, ok awesome thanks tribeca. guess im going back to 1333. but isnt my cpu suppose to stay under 61? it gets up to 58 on core0 and core1 by 5 minutes. for what its worth, the temp1 reads 42

EDIT: also, when running orthos do i use blend, or small fft's for the 8 hour stability test. and at what priority?


----------



## Eddie3dfx

Do you think it has to do with bad quad support?
maybe these things are fussy with 1066 crucial ballistix
I'm using the 06 bios


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77*


I
Thanks for the info about quads. My QX6700 is B3 stepped which OCs so differently from those sexy Q6600s, so I think I'll be in unchartered territory there. The eVGA board you're probably thinking of is the A1/T1 (same board, different accessories), but I'm not too worried about the board's FSB wall since I get excellent performance with 320 FSB ATM (I can't get higher than 333 on my board, so won't expect that on hers).

+REP for the map of mosfets.


It will be interesting indeed to see how the QX6700 does on this board. I think you'll do a lot better than my G0 Q6600 with your upward mobility on the multiplier. I'm not to sure how the stepping will affect you- the B3 needs a little more voltage to run at the same speed, run slightly hotter and have a 60C threshold instead of 70C on the G0. I'd reccomed getting a good cooler to protect that seX6700y. The intel POS heatsink is alright for me and the G0, but may not be enough for a B3 running 1.5+V.

I wouldn't worry too much about hitting the bus wall with the QX, since you have the option of going up with your multi. I'm jealous









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ravin (PM him or talk to him in the stickied P5N-E thread) is a very experienced OCer who recently plugged a q6600 into this board, so you can ask him about his experiences. From what he's said, it looks like he's hit a wall at 333 FSB (x9 for 3 GHz, and it took sime finangling to get that stable).










I'm just a geek


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eddie3dfx*


Do you think it has to do with bad quad support?
maybe these things are fussy with 1066 crucial ballistix
I'm using the 06 bios


I really think the board has a voltage issue when it comes to the quad. I get a ton of droop- I set 1.275 and see about .12V droop. The more I give it, the worse it gets. I did get near 350*9, but it wasn't stable for heavy load.

I have the 1000 ballistix- they are the same IC as your 1066. I had a hard time running above 1000 with the CPU overclocked. 1:1 (1066) @ 4-3-3-6 2T tRc21 was great, but not stable with a funky divider.

Ultimately this is where I'm happy to hang out. BIOS voltages I'm running: Vcore 1.265 +100mv, Vdimm 2.17V, MCH 1.56V. Ambient room temp: ~68F
finger check on NB HS and SB, I think the MB temp in ASUSprobe could be trusted.

EDIT: Come to think of it I should try cooling the MOSFETs w/ some HS and trying again...


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


so this isnt an overclock ?, but Im having an issue getting into my bios!! im only able to post with 1 gig stick xms2, but i cant enter the bios with the delete key, ive tried 2 keyboards so far and nothing has been loaded (software) as of yet.. Please help!


can u be a little more specific about your problem?

have you _ever_ posted succesfully with the board? if not, does it just hang, or does it ever reboot spontaneously? do you get warning beeps with no ram in at all?

i'm guessing it's 1 of 3 things:

1) your CPU cooler isn't mounted correctly
2) your board is shorting out
3) your RAM isn't compatible with the board

From you're describind I'd guess 3, but I'd definately rule out 1 and 2 before deciding 3 is the issue.

Give us some more info and we should be able to help more....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yukmouth*


hmm, ok awesome thanks tribeca. guess im going back to 1333. but isnt my cpu suppose to stay under 61? it gets up to 58 on core0 and core1 by 5 minutes. for what its worth, the temp1 reads 42

EDIT: also, when running orthos do i use blend, or small fft's for the 8 hour stability test. and at what priority?


Hmmm...ok if you're hitting 58C after minutes you're gonna have temp problems. After a few hours the peak temp you'll probably see with that is around 62-64C. See if you can get stable with lower vcore at 1300 or so, and stick with that 'till you can get some better cooling.

and the temp1 reading isn't worth a damn thing









as for orthos, for testing general stability i usually use blend. if i've been OCing a particular component (CPU or RAM) I'll usually use small or large fft's, because it will encounter errors sooner. but i guarentee you there is nothing that will stress your cpu harder than small ffts, ever. and keep the priority at 1. if the 58C you saw was under blend, I wouldn't stress with small ffts at 1333 though, because it'll push your temps too high.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I really think the board has a voltage issue when it comes to the quad. I get a ton of droop- I set 1.275 and see about .12V droop. The more I give it, the worse it gets. I did get near 350*9, but it wasn't stable for heavy load.

I have the 1000 ballistix- they are the same IC as your 1066. I had a hard time running above 1000 with the CPU overclocked. 1:1 (1066) @ 4-3-3-6 2T tRc21 was great, but not stable with a funky divider.

Ultimately this is where I'm happy to hang out. BIOS voltages I'm running: Vcore 1.265 +100mv, Vdimm 2.17V, MCH 1.56V. Ambient room temp: ~68F
finger check on NB HS and SB, I think the MB temp in ASUSprobe could be trusted.

EDIT: Come to think of it I should try cooling the MOSFETs w/ some HS and trying again...


I was *just* going to ask about mosfet cooling when I saw your edit









if you're drooping THAT badly I'm sure it's a voltage issue. .12 is at least double what I'd consider normal on a duo on this board, and even 0.06 would be a lot with that litte vcore. I get 0.7 droop under load from 1.56! probably the quad is just drawing too much current for the voltage regulators to handle. cooling should help







i've got a single HS on my CPU mosfets now, but i'll be getting those little zalman vram sinks on monday, so i can cool the vdim mosfets and improve the situation on the cpu mosfets. I'm thinking about how to improve airflow over them too, though i haven't come up with anything definate yet. Might just try to find a way to zip-tie an 80mm fan in place....


----------



## yukmouth

ok thanks tribeca. ill back off a few fsb and lower vcore until better cooling


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*









I'm just a geek


hahaha aren't we all? is this not overgeek.net, or have i been on the wrong site all this time???


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

hey i fixed the issue.. guess what it was?!?.......... It was my razor mouse lol.. so i unplugged it and viola!~! My only issue now, is im using asus install and chipset driver is taking forever to finish. Its been going on about 20 min.. I hate the fact that it doesnt show, how much progress completed or just an idea when it should be done? Is it normally fast or is there something wrong, i chose the installalldrivers, ty

-mike


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

Does anyone know how to lower mb temps?? Mines sitting at 36c, but was wondering if there are other ways to bring it a little lower. Is there a certain spot where i should place a fan or am i at normal temps (whats to hot for mb reading?) Ty


----------



## TriBeCa

20min is long. if it takes much longer, reinstall windows and try again. I say reinstall windows because 1) it won't take long, and 2) you really don't want anything funny going on with a bad MB driver install.

make _certain_ that your RAM is _manually_ set to stock in the BIOS. don't trust this board to autodetect your RAM timings correctly. I say this because if your MB driver install has indeed gone bad, and your RAM isn't manually set to stock timings, then i'd be willing to bet a fair bit of money that your MB driver install is screwing because your RAM isn't stable.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx* 
Does anyone know how to lower mb temps?? Mines sitting at 36c, but was wondering if there are other ways to bring it a little lower. Is there a certain spot where i should place a fan or am i at normal temps (whats to hot for mb reading?) Ty

36C is fine, don't worry about it. i always recommend reseating the stock HS with a better TIM (i.e. AS5), but if you're not OCing you'll be fine with stock. At 1.56vNB I've got a good aftermarket cooler on the NB and a small active cooler on the SB, and my MB temp reports 43-45C under load.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Awesome pic, I'm going to stick that in the guide so we can easily find it later. I'd found the mosfets, but I didn't realize there were two dedicated to the +100mV option...knowing about those gives a good explanation for why that BIOS option improves vdroop.

And while I don't really know, I thought there was something about the 600 series chipsets just not handling quads as well as the p35's, but I could be wrong.

Why not just run a divider? Leave your RAM and stock and do w/e you want with the CPU.

But yeah, I wouldn't count on getting 350FSB on a quad...you might get 333 though.


Sadly, I'm fussy and want a 1:1 ratio.








No matter anyhow, I'm not getting a new CPU for a few months. I'm saving for the GTS, but with all these nice games coming out it's hard keeping the cash. So now I'm spending CPU money on games while saving for the GTS, which I should get end this month.


----------



## Eddie3dfx

Unfortunately the xeons require more voltage than the q series processors.
I think this board may have been a bad choice by me for the x3210 and overclocking. 
This is what it gives me for the stock settings plus auto 20% max overclock


----------



## Scudd

I am trying to overclock my Q6600 Go slacr, i am having trouble getting it stable at over 3ghz anyone else have a similar setup and managed to get it stable?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Scudd* 
I am trying to overclock my Q6600 Go slacr, i am having trouble getting it stable at over 3ghz anyone else have a similar setup and managed to get it stable?

3GHz is all I was able to get stable. I was able to get 3.15GHz stable enough to run CPUz and benchmarks, but would get random reboots, BSODs, and freezes when trying to repeatedly run them.

I personally think the voltage regulators are not up to snuff to handle the current draw needed running a quad. Not surprising since the quad is essentially 2 C2D cores stitched together and have 2x the transistors count of a C2D.

From what I've read as this thread has progressed, there seems to be some agreement that the problem is the MOSFETs. There is no cooling on them-If you look at boards that do clock the quads well they all have heat sinks on the MOSFETs. The Pook seemed to get better results overclocking his C2D by adding cooling to them, and I'm willing to bet it may help us quad owners.


----------



## Christiaan

It may or may not. I cooled them with VRAM heatsinks but one notch lower on the VCore and Orthos fails. So it didn't work for me, but then again, I'm already pushing 1.3875v +100mv through them.


----------



## Scudd

Thanks for the reply, i guess 3ghz is decent enough speed for now, i have tried changing voltages up and down, i also turned all my case fans to full, it sounded like a jet engine and still no luck. Have you tried it with the latest bios? i have hear that is is causing problems for some overclockers


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
It may or may not. I cooled them with VRAM heatsinks but one notch lower on the VCore and Orthos fails. So it didn't work for me, but then again, I'm already pushing 1.3875v +100mv through them.









Yea, but you have a D805 running 3.5GHz. I'd say that your CPU is nearly maxed out. I had the D820 and could barely get above 3.7GHz stable on this board. And the D series is definetly not the G0 quad, so you can't compare.

Good job on that 3.5GHz 805









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Scudd* 
Thanks for the reply, i guess 3ghz is decent enough speed for now, i have tried changing voltages up and down, i also turned all my case fans to full, it sounded like a jet engine and still no luck. Have you tried it with the latest bios? i have hear that is is causing problems for some overclockers

0608 is where its at


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Yea, but you have a D805 running 3.5GHz. I'd say that your CPU is nearly maxed out. I had the D820 and could barely get above 3.7GHz stable on this board. And the D series is definetly not the G0 quad, so you can't compare.

Good job on that 3.5GHz 805









0608 is where its at









Thanks!









But I was just referring to the cooling of the mosfets to stablize them. Didn't work for me.









Goodluck. Hope it works for you.


----------



## Perry

I'm going to try to get mine up to 3.4Ghz but so far I can't get it stable at 3.6Ghz, which has been my goal all along. Now granted I haven't upped the north bridge voltage so that may be the problem. I'm going to apply some AS5 and reseat it before I start messing with it though.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eddie3dfx*


Unfortunately the xeons require more voltage than the q series processors.
I think this board may have been a bad choice by me for the x3210 and overclocking. 
This is what it gives me for the stock settings plus auto 20% max overclock











that version of CPU-z doesn't report voltages correctly, so I have no idea what vcore you're at, and so on.

seriously--turn off that AI OC and do things manually! check out the guide in my sig.

Oh, and I don't know what RAM you have but I'd be _shocked and amazed_ if those timings are stock for your chips. Go look up your RAMs stock timings and set them manually in the BIOS. That should help you achieve better stability.


----------



## Eddie3dfx

I just wanted to say thank you for writing up that guide, it's nice that people take time out to help others on the net. It was very appreciated.
I tried the same or similar settings on asus 650 that I tried on the evga 680i.
They are crucial ballistix 1066 cas 5 (5-5-5-15) 2.2v, though on the evga they can be used at 1.8v

I have tried your guide with no luck. I turned off all ide/firewire/all cpu disabled.
I tried it from the lowest volt to the highest, with 100mah, 1.3-1.5 nb, 2.2v and auto for memory.
I even tried auto for volt and 100mah turned on.
The only settings that seemed to work are the standard and oc ones.
The funny thing is, the 20% overclock seems to crash once in a while too.
I was able to get it booted at 1375fsb, then it never worked again.
Sometimes I can get the abit screen where it says tab or delete, but it freezes there.
Sometimes I just get a black screen with no boot.
I do have 8800gts sli enabled, if that makes any difference, which I don't think it does...
The L settings I turned down to 3-4.
I have a feeling when it comes to quads, it really has a hard time handling these settings.


----------



## TriBeCa

did you manually set your RAM timings to stock, though? That's the single most important thing for achieving stability.

...and i hope you haven't damaged anything. it sounds like you've tried some pretty high voltage options.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Thanks!









But I was just referring to the cooling of the mosfets to stablize them. Didn't work for me.








Goodluck. Hope it works for you.









I understand that cooling the MOSFETS did not work for you, but what I'm trying to say is you cannot compare how the MOSFETs are working between 175*20 with your D805 and with 333*9 on the quad, without measuring the voltage, ampreage, and temperatures of both setups. The bus on my system is nearly 2X that of yours, and probably draws more amps at the same voltage, likely resulting in the MOSFET temp of the quad>>>>>>than that of the 805. Same for the CPU too.

Also cooling the MOSFETS may not have helped your particular situation because 3.5GHz is a probably close to the limit of what the 820 can do without insane voltages and killer cooling (ie volt mod and phase) on ANY board.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
I'm going to try to get mine up to 3.4Ghz but so far I can't get it stable at 3.6Ghz, which has been my goal all along. Now granted I haven't upped the north bridge voltage so that may be the problem. I'm going to apply some AS5 and reseat it before I start messing with it though.

For 3.6GHz 2 things happened for me. 1) My temps went over 64 degrees on load and 2) I needed over 1.5v to do it. I wouldn't run it at the voltage. It's a bit too high.
Might be different for you, let's see.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
I understand that cooling the MOSFETS did not work for you, but what I'm trying to say is you cannot compare how the MOSFETs are working between 175*20 with your D805 and with 333*9 on the quad, without measuring the voltage, ampreage, and temperatures of both setups. The bus on my system is nearly 2X that of yours, and probably draws more amps at the same voltage, likely resulting in the MOSFET temp of the quad>>>>>>than that of the 805. Same for the CPU too.

Also cooling the MOSFETS may not have helped your particular situation because 3.5GHz is a probably close to the limit of what the 820 can do without insane voltages and killer cooling (ie volt mod and phase) on ANY board.

Noted.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
For 3.6GHz 2 things happened for me. 1) My temps went over 64 degrees on load and 2) I needed over 1.5v to do it. I wouldn't run it at the voltage. It's a bit too high.
Might be different for you, let's see.









How much do you droop on the Vcore @ 3.6G/1.5V? My old D820 was drooping from 1.5V to 1.44V clocked @3.7GHz. I droop from 1.5V to 1.37V with the quad @ 350*9, and from 1.275 to 1.18-1.20V currently @333*9.

Edit: and my temp on the 820 @257*14 was 72C.....64 would have been preferable.


----------



## Eddie3dfx

Thats the strange part, manually set timing has achieved zero stability on this board while automatic set timing was stable, yet not accurate.
I can't really tell exactly what the motherboard set the voltage too.
Is there a program that will let me find out what the bios is set at?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


How much do you droop on the Vcore @ 3.6G/1.5V? My old D820 was drooping from 1.5V to 1.44V clocked @3.7GHz. I droop from 1.5V to 1.37V with the quad @ 350*9, and from 1.275 to 1.18-1.20V currently @333*9.

Edit: and my temp on the 820 @257*14 was 72C.....64 would have been preferable.


I didn't check my voltages at that speed, but I can tell you at my current clock.
Using Orthos and CPU-Z.
Current setting in BIOS 1.3875v +100mv = 1.4875v
Idle - 1.440v
Load - 1.312v


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


For 3.6GHz 2 things happened for me. 1) My temps went over 64 degrees on load and 2) I needed over 1.5v to do it. I wouldn't run it at the voltage. It's a bit too high.
Might be different for you, let's see.










I'll punch it to 1.4v on the vcore tonight. What I find funny is that it his 3.2Ghz without any voltage increase at all. Rock solid at 1.27.

My load temps at 3.2Ghz are 55 degrees as I previously said and I can see myself having those jump up to over 60 and if you had yours go to the danger zone with your Zalman, I don't think my Tempest will fair well. I'll cut it off as soon as it hits 60 though since my wife will







me if I blow something up.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eddie3dfx*


Thats the strange part, manually set timing has achieved zero stability on this board while automatic set timing was stable, yet not accurate.
I can't really tell exactly what the motherboard set the voltage too.
Is there a program that will let me find out what the bios is set at?


hrrm.

it'd help if you filled out your system info under the User CP. I've no idea what RAM you have









did you manually set 2T as well?

and no, I'm not aware of anything that'll tell you what your BIOS is set at.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I didn't check my voltages at that speed, but I can tell you at my current clock.
Using Orthos and CPU-Z.
Current setting in BIOS 1.3875v +100mv = 1.4875v
Idle - 1.440v
Load - 1.312v


Holy S**T that's some crazy droop! and you say you've got vram sinks on your mosfets too?


----------



## Eddie3dfx

So far so good!
What I did was go back to evgas website to find out what the rest of the memory settings I used were after the 5-5-5-15 etc.
I popped in 4-23-6-10 and left the rest at automatic.
I put the memory in synch and I was able to run at 1425fsb (712memory)
I can't get over 1450 without it freezing.. I tried to increase the volt but no luck
I'll let you guys know how it worked.
Thanks


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, project complete on my wife's rig! Pictures soon.

Ravin, I had a spare Coolermaster Aquagate 120 lying around that I used instead of stock (I have so many stock HSF... I wonder what they go for on eBay). It is insufficient. Even though it's "liquid", I'm going to have to get something better. I had to bend some capacitors slightly to even install it. I was naughty.

Right now, I have modest 3.2 on that system at 320x10 (yes, unlocked multi... but the bigger bus speed translates into a LOT of extra RAM performance... observations on my P5N32-E attached). I had to use a little more power than on my board, but that's not unusual.

My P5N32-E SB HS fit beautifully, as does the Tt Spirit II (which seems much hotter to the touch than mine, even though they are pretty much the same v).

My only other observation is that in my other-than-sober state last night, I accidentally installed 680i drivers on the board. I didn't realize it until this morning when the networked HDD was running really slow, but everything else was working fine! So, there's that.

Can't wait to take the QX6700 higher, but must buy Zalman 9700 first (better than Tuniq/Thermalright because I don't want to lap another HSF!)

**ATTACHED is my OC notes on the P5N32-E re: FSB v. RAM performance. Unless otherwise specified, the RAM is 4x1GB Ballistix PC2-8500. Also unless otherwise noted, the CPU and everything else is as in my sig.


----------



## TriBeCa

nice! you should still update your system config though, i can't for the life of my remember what's in your rig









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I'll punch it to 1.4v on the vcore tonight. What I find funny is that it his 3.2Ghz without any voltage increase at all. Rock solid at 1.27.

My load temps at 3.2Ghz are 55 degrees as I previously said and I can see myself having those jump up to over 60 and if you had yours go to the danger zone with your Zalman, I don't think my Tempest will fair well. I'll cut it off as soon as it hits 60 though since my wife will







me if I blow something up.


your chip is rated up to 64C, so don't get too nervous about 60


----------



## Chani.-

What BIOS revision fixes the memory kink?


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

I have two 1 gig xms2 ram, but i cant post with the two gigs! I can only post with one gig, have everything set to manual.. Voltages and timings... Im not sure if i should leave at 1t or 2t, but to be safe i left it at two.. Im going to try to swap the other ram that im using now and put that in the A1 slot and see if its defective.. if that works im going to but it in the b1 slot.. Any other advice would be appreciated thnx!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chani.-*


What BIOS revision fixes the memory kink?


Err, which memory kink? If you mean the loose timings that the board auto-detects, I don't know of any. If that's not what you mean...I have no idea what you're talking about?









Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


I have two 1 gig xms2 ram, but i cant post with the two gigs! I can only post with one gig, have everything set to manual.. Voltages and timings... Im not sure if i should leave at 1t or 2t, but to be safe i left it at two.. Im going to try to swap the other ram that im using now and put that in the A1 slot and see if its defective.. if that works im going to but it in the b1 slot.. Any other advice would be appreciated thnx!


Stock voltage and timings doesn't work with two 1GB chips of your RAM? Definately 2T for stability...only try 1T if you're sure your stable at 2T already. You've tried both pairs of slots (yellow and black) with your two chips, with stock settings? If it works with one but not two, with manual timings and voltages set to stock, the only thing I can recommend is calling ASUS tech support and getting an RMA #







That is, presuming your RAM chips show up in Corsair's memory configurator for this board...if they don't, then ASUS will just tell you to get new ram


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Holy S**T that's some crazy droop! and you say you've got vram sinks on your mosfets too?


Yup, but as I said, they didn't do any good. lol

The strange thing though, before this board I had a Gigabyte with the 945G Pro chipset and I could OC my 805 to 3.5GHz with a mere 1.4125v. And then it would load at 52 degrees. Now on this Asus, I need 1.4875v for the same OC and it loads near 64 degrees.

My reason for getting the Asus is SLI (I was going to go SLI with my 7600GT) and the better memory options. The Gigabyte had zero memory options besides RAM dividers and it wouldn't even post with my RAM at 600Mhz (Stock it's 667...).









I have some theories on the higher temps. Firstly, a obvious one, the extra voltage I need. This board has some serious vdroop. Secondly, on the Gigabyte my Zalman was almost right on top of the rear exhaust fan in my case. Now it's a bit further away. I think those two things contribute to my high temps.

Just to add, when I had the Gigabyte, I would load near 60. Average 58. I then lapped my CPU which dropped my temps to 52, but now that advantage has been nullified with this board.

I am however planning to get a Zalman 9700 to replace this 9500. That should help temps along. Reason is, the 9500 isn't very hot... it's mild. It seems to not get the heat off the CPU very well. And it is seated 100%, I've reseated it many times.

Along with that, I'm also thinking of just getting one of the new Core 2 Duo's and putting the 805 in my folding PC.


----------



## Geoffthepig

Hi,

Can anyone tell me the safe operating temperature for the MB? When I run PC probe, it warns me that the temperautre is too high (42 degrees c). What can I do to reduce this? By necessity, the PC is in the corner....

Thanks.


----------



## cscheat

*hey GUYS !!!!!!!

Talking of MB temperature.. i am very very headache now !!!!
Yesterday i stick in another 8800 GTS to make my RIG running SLI but my MB temp rise till 58C idle !!!!!! HELP !!!!*

im still using stock cooling and NB voltage at 1.39v !! any idea how to lower my board temp !? what is the normal temp !?


----------



## Chani.-

Quote:



TECHAge Review <--- Explains memory issues, which were fixed in 2nd BIOS update. (New boards come with even NEWER BIOS versions.)


Tribe i'm talking about this one, my problem is that my computer POSTs fine with 3x1GB sticks but then when i put my 4th one in it doesn't post AT ALL so i was wondering if my BIOS could be the problem? I'm running revision 0307 right now


----------



## Ravin

Finding minimum Vcore 333*9......so far it's @ 1.256V. I'll keep ya posted









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Along with that, I'm also thinking of just getting one of the new Core 2 Duo's and putting the 805 in my folding PC.










If you get C2D, wanna swap your 805 for my 820? I've been troubleshooting the old Abit/820 rig and it's down to the CPU vs the Mobo...one of which is a gonner.

And it's for the same purpose - Dedicated folder for team 37726


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Geoffthepig*


Hi,

Can anyone tell me the safe operating temperature for the MB? When I run PC probe, it warns me that the temperautre is too high (42 degrees c). What can I do to reduce this? By necessity, the PC is in the corner....

Thanks.


42C is nothing to worry about. But if you want to improve the temp, remount the stock NB with AS5, or buy an aftermarket cooler for it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


*hey GUYS !!!!!!!

Talking of MB temperature.. i am very very headache now !!!!
Yesterday i stick in another 8800 GTS to make my RIG running SLI but my MB temp rise till 58C idle !!!!!! HELP !!!!*

im still using stock cooling and NB voltage at 1.39v !! any idea how to lower my board temp !? what is the normal temp !?


Wow that's hot. Must be all the heat coming off the extra 8800. Since your SB is sitting right under a pair of really hot GFX cards, you might think about putting a cooler on it. This is what I have on mine, and the smaller of the two spare heatsinks it comes with fits perfectly on the CPU mosfets as well.

As for the NB...again, you probably want an aftermarket cooler on it. Reseating with AS5 will probably help, but might not be enough. I've got this on mine. It seems to be working great, but it gets hot as hell. The configuration I have it in is not ideal (the fan draws air off my CPU cooler and blows it onto the GPU), but it's the only one that works with my CPU cooler. I've hit some very subtle stability issues with my OC, and it's not impossible that it's due to heat on the NB....


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Geoffthepig*


Hi,

Can anyone tell me the safe operating temperature for the MB? When I run PC probe, it warns me that the temperautre is too high (42 degrees c). What can I do to reduce this? By necessity, the PC is in the corner....

Thanks.


you can configure PC probe's temp limits. Go PcProbe>Config>Sensor/threshold>Temperature and type 50 in the box under threshold. Click apply. This should be your max daily 24/7 temp, but you can run 60C to get a benchmark.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chani.-*


Tribe i'm talking about this one, my problem is that my computer POSTs fine with 3x1GB sticks but then when i put my 4th one in it doesn't post AT ALL so i was wondering if my BIOS could be the problem? I'm running revision 0307 right now


Deifinitely update...Consensus is version 0608 if you are going to OC. Good luck getting 4X1Gb up. Personally I would have opted for 2X2Gb as it puts less demand on the board.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chani.-*


Tribe i'm talking about this one, my problem is that my computer POSTs fine with 3x1GB sticks but then when i put my 4th one in it doesn't post AT ALL so i was wondering if my BIOS could be the problem? I'm running revision 0307 right now


Hrrm. Probably worth trying the 0608 BIOS. Also try increasing vdimm a touch, sometimes 4 dimms is a bit rough. And of course stay on stock timings.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Wow that's hot. Must be all the heat coming off the extra 8800.


I wondered how running a second high power card for SLI would affect the SB just by looking at the board when I bought it. The NB HS is alright- better w/a fan on it, but still could have been better.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Finding minimum Vcore 333*9......so far it's @ 1.256V. I'll keep ya posted









If you get C2D, wanna swap your 805 for my 820? I've been troubleshooting the old Abit/820 rig and it's down to the CPU vs the Mobo...one of which is a gonner.

And it's for the same purpose - Dedicated folder for team 37726









It's possible, but I have no idea how to ship international.








And if I do go Core 2, it won't be this year. Saving for that GTS! ^^ And then games, games, games. I still need to buy Bioshock, so I am behind as you can see.








I'm holding out till end this month for the supposed improved GTS with 112 SP.







If it isn't true, I don't care what comes out in a month or a week. I will not wait a day longer and will buy a 8800GTS at the end of this month.







waiting


----------



## Chani.-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Hrrm. Probably worth trying the 0608 BIOS. Also try increasing vdimm a touch, sometimes 4 dimms is a bit rough. And of course stay on stock timings.

alright so should i just increase the vDimm up by a little? and what is 0608 (DOS) and 0608 (AllOS) which one should i use?


----------



## TriBeCa

just by one increase, yeah. it's worth a shot.

and i think you use the allos one.


----------



## Chani.-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
just by one increase, yeah. it's worth a shot.

and i think you use the allos one.

alright so do i use the asus-update to flash my bios or do i put it on a bootable disk to do it?


----------



## pyro2zcore

hey do u know how to crack a wep encryption?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chani.-* 
alright so do i use the asus-update to flash my bios or do i put it on a bootable disk to do it?

whichever. some people say you should never flash from windows, but it's never caused me a problem. the only time i had a problem falshing was the BIOS EZFlash utility.

and make sure you go back to stock settings before you flash!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pyro2zcore* 
hey do u know how to crack a wep encryption?

with a steel pipe.

can you say off topic?


----------



## cscheat

*Tribeca, Ravin !

I found the solution !!!! the MB temp rise to 58C because of the extra 8800GTS heat up the SouthBridge (my 8800 fan speed is at stock which is 60% duty cycle) !!! then i try to increase the fan speed of my 2nd 8800GTS to 100% duty cycle !









after 2 minute, my 2nd 8800GTS GPU temp dropped from 72C to 60C !!! then i notice my MB temp dropped to 46C !!!! imagine that !!!

MB temp at 58C dropped to 46C by only adjusting my GPU fan !!!!!









WOW !!!*


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
*Tribeca, Ravin !

I found the solution !!!! the MB temp rise to 58C because of the extra 8800GTS heat up the SouthBridge (my 8800 fan speed is at stock which is 60% duty cycle) !!! then i try to increase the fan speed of my 2nd 8800GTS to 100% duty cycle !









after 2 minute, my 2nd 8800GTS GPU temp dropped from 72C to 60C !!! then i notice my MB temp dropped to 46C !!!! imagine that !!!

MB temp at 58C dropped to 46C by only adjusting my GPU fan !!!!!









WOW !!!*

Schweet


----------



## cscheat

guys !

i saw a menu in BIOS;

*SLI broadcast aperture:auto or disable ???*
should i set to AUTO !?? HELP !!!


----------



## TriBeCa

turn it on when you're using SLI. it's supposed to improve communication between the cards.


----------



## Geoffthepig

TRibeca and ravin, thanks for replying. Have re-set the probe sensor limit. Amazing how hard it is to find manufacturer details on this kind of thing!

Cheers!


----------



## Ravin

Now testing stability of (333*9) @ 1.250V, RAM: 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T tRC=12 @2.17V.....one hour stable in windows, RAM Memtest86 no errors 6.5 hours.

Vcore drooping to 1.16V under load, temps from 48-51C (low core/high core)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Geoffthepig* 
TRibeca and ravin, thanks for replying. Have re-set the probe sensor limit. Amazing how hard it is to find manufacturer details on this kind of thing!

Cheers!

No problem. I think it may have to do with the Japanese to English translation- I myself used to translate Jap instruction manuals to English and Spanish. Some things just get skipped over because getting a good translation from Japanese can be very difficult, and most translators don't care about the details.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
turn it on when you're using SLI. it's supposed to improve communication between the cards.

I see an improvement by setting it to AUTO !!!!!!!!!!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Now testing stability of (333*9) @ 1.250V, RAM: 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T tRC=12 @2.17V.....one hour stable in windows, RAM Memtest86 no errors 6.5 hours.

Vcore drooping to 1.16V under load, temps from 48-51C (low core/high core)


that's some crazy low vcore man, i'm jealous.

btw, take a look at that thread of mine over the in the folding forum. i posted some new details there and i'd love to have your feedback on my last post.

i think i'm gonna have to take some pics of my rig and post over the air cooling forum asking for people's advice, as i wanna mod in some fans but i obviously don't wanna screw up the existing airflow....


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Now testing stability of (333*9) @ 1.250V, RAM: 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 2T tRC=12 @2.17V.....one hour stable in windows, RAM Memtest86 no errors 6.5 hours.

Vcore drooping to 1.16V under load, temps from 48-51C (low core/high core)


Wow man. Now I want a Q6600 after all! lol
3GHz with that low vcore? I don't see why we can't reach 3.4GHz or more on this board.









What's the "safe" rated voltage max on the Q6600?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Wow man. Now I want a Q6600 after all! lol
3GHz with that low vcore? I don't see why we can't reach 3.4GHz or more on this board.









What's the "safe" rated voltage max on the Q6600?

Intel just revised max Vcore for all 65nm C2D and C2Q chips is 1.500V

I'm trying to see what the lowest Vcore I can push is, then start overclocking again. Sounds counter intuitive, but I've been rereading the thread. From what I can gather the board just does not like high voltages. Lowering the Vdimm and Vcore seems to help stability in some cases.


----------



## TriBeCa

agreed ravin. i've seen stability increases in some cases when i've been able to lower vcore. as we've discussed, it seems that the voltage regulation on this board leaves a lot to be desired.

Who here has done the pencil mod? How much improvement did you see? I'm considering seeing if it'll help me stabilize my 3.4GHz OC, which has run into trouble....


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Who here has done the pencil mod? How much improvement did you see? I'm considering seeing if it'll help me stabilize my 3.4GHz OC, which has run into trouble....


Same here although I'm a bit paranoid to do it on a board that I just bought.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Who here has done the pencil mod? How much improvement did you see? I'm considering seeing if it'll help me stabilize my 3.4GHz OC, which has run into trouble....


Me, it helped me to lower my vcore. Theres an image link in my sig to show you where you need to do the pencil mod as well.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Same here although I'm a bit paranoid to do it on a board that I just bought.


As long as you have an ohm meter to check the resistance of your mod there shouldnt be any conscern for damaging the board. Personally I'd be more worried about my CPU that cost 3X as much. Meh, if I kill the P5N-E, I'll just go get a p35/X38 board.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


As long as you have an ohm meter to check the resistance of your mod there shouldnt be any conscern for damaging the board. Personally I'd be more worried about my CPU that cost 3X as much. Meh, if I kill the P5N-E, I'll just go get a p35/X38 board.


Part of the reason why I went for this board is because of the dual IDE headers so I could keep all of my older hard drives and it would accept a CPU with a 533 FSB so if I were to blow it I'd either have to get the same mobo or a new one plus a new CPU.

...that second scenerio won't happen.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Part of the reason why I went for this board is because of the dual IDE headers so I could keep all of my older hard drives and it would accept a CPU with a 533 FSB so if I were to blow it I'd either have to get the same mobo or a new one plus a new CPU.

...that second scenerio won't happen.










Snap....You have an 805. I don't think that you'll need to worry about the Vdroop mod- you'll max the CPU without going 1.6V, and your FSB is half what mine is stock. Just get a good cooler for that blast furnace.

Edit: Ditto on the dual IDE headers. I did not want to replace my CDR, DVDRW/CDRW, and 2X200 Gb Hdds.

Nice Avatar!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Me, it helped me to lower my vcore. Theres an image link in my sig to show you where you need to do the pencil mod as well.


Just checking...are there 4 connections I see it on there? Any other advice you can give? Kind of pencil to use, etc. etc.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


As long as you have an ohm meter to check the resistance of your mod there shouldnt be any conscern for damaging the board. Personally I'd be more worried about my CPU that cost 3X as much. Meh, if I kill the P5N-E, I'll just go get a p35/X38 board.


...and if I don't have an ohm meter? I take it that what you're saying is you need to check that the resistance is high enough that you're not actually shorting it.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Just checking...are there 4 connections I see it on there? Any other advice you can give? Kind of pencil to use, etc. etc.

...and if I don't have an ohm meter? I take it that what you're saying is you need to check that the resistance is high enough that you're not actually shorting it.


I like using a 4B pencil. I've also used 2B and 2H- although B works better.

Yea- you want to make sure that you have some resistance left after the mod. Too much graphite will overvolt your chip and may burn out the MOSFETS by drawing too much current (pretty unlikely unless you really leave *a lot *of graphite).


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Just checking...are there 4 connections I see it on there? Any other advice you can give? Kind of pencil to use, etc. etc.

...and if I don't have an ohm meter? I take it that what you're saying is you need to check that the resistance is high enough that you're not actually shorting it.


Use something like a 2B pencil. Its the one thats coloured in yellow in my sig link that you need to pencil. Best way to do this, is trial and error. Just pencil it in a bit at a time and then fully load the CPU and then use the ohmmeter on one of the vcore mosfets


----------



## Ravin

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=127528&page=3

Page discussing the pencil and hard mod for Vdroop- and what final resistances should be. IMO I'd try the pencil mod, and if the results are good move on to the hard mod.


----------



## TriBeCa

Ok...well I'm gonna have to wait 'till I feel like buying an ohm meter or I can find one to borrow.

Anyone know anyone in the NYC area who might loan me one for a weekend?


----------



## Asce

Any DIY store?


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Snap....You have an 805. I don't think that you'll need to worry about the Vdroop mod- you'll max the CPU without going 1.6V, and your FSB is half what mine is stock. Just get a good cooler for that blast furnace.

Edit: Ditto on the dual IDE headers. I did not want to replace my CDR, DVDRW/CDRW, and 2X200 Gb Hdds.

Nice Avatar!


Well, my overclock is stuck at 3.4Ghz and my memory is still at 960mhz. I think I'll re-run my cables (it's been a mess since I built the rig), reseat the northbridge heatsink with some AS5 (any ideas how how best to apply it since this isn't the usual CPU application) and toy with the northbridge voltage (eek!).

While all of those may help with the CPU overclock will any of that help with the memory overclock? I may simply be stuck at 960mhz which isn't too bad for DDR-800 with timings of 5-4-4-15-2t but I'd like to get at least 40mhz more out of the modules if possible.

Good to know that the pencil mod won't really be needed. That's a bit dodgy for me anyway. I tend to colour outside the lines.









As for the CPU voltage, I won't go over 1.4v simply because, as much as I would love to get a 6420 or 6550 I simply can't afford to replace it if it blows or goes out early. Besides, I don't think my Tempest will be able to keep the temperatures down below 60, which is my cut off just to be safe.

Hmm...I'm feeling kind of saucey and may reseat my video card heatsink as well assuming I don't need to get new thermal pads for the memory. Perhaps that'll take a bit more reading.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Well, my overclock is stuck at 3.4Ghz and my memory is still at 960mhz. I think I'll re-run my cables (it's been a mess since I built the rig), reseat the northbridge heatsink with some AS5 (any ideas how how best to apply it since this isn't the usual CPU application) and toy with the northbridge voltage (eek!).

While all of those may help with the CPU overclock will any of that help with the memory overclock? I may simply be stuck at 960mhz which isn't too bad for DDR-800 with timings of 5-4-4-15-2t but I'd like to get at least 40mhz more out of the modules if possible.

Good to know that the pencil mod won't really be needed. That's a bit dodgy for me anyway. I tend to colour outside the lines.









As for the CPU voltage, I won't go over 1.4v simply because, as much as I would love to get a 6420 or 6550 I simply can't afford to replace it if it blows or goes out early. Besides, I don't think my Tempest will be able to keep the temperatures down below 60, which is my cut off just to be safe.

Hmm...I'm feeling kind of saucey and may reseat my video card heatsink as well assuming I don't need to get new thermal pads for the memory. Perhaps that'll take a bit more reading.


I don't know if the extra NB voltage will help your RAM, but it won't help your CPU, my PD 805 @ 3.5GHz and my NB voltage is on the minimum setting. I think 1.2***v?

As for the voltage, I wouldn't worry, I've been running mine over 1.4v since I got it last year May and I folded 24/7 with it till a month or so ago. It's still good as new, well not quite, I lapped it. So it has a shiny copper top.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Good to know that the pencil mod won't really be needed. That's a bit dodgy for me anyway. I tend to colour outside the lines.










You can do the same kind of mod for the NB and Vdimm resistors. ~around pg 190-200 The Pook noted that as you increase voltage for the CPU or Vdimm the board steals it from the NB. I'd watch it though- the 650i/680i boards are notorious for burning out quickly when Vdimm>2.25V.

As for the AS5 method- I use a the "rice grain" method. After prepping the surfaces by cleaning with thermal paste solvent and isopropyl, simply apply about a SMALL rice grain sized squirt of AS5 to EITHER your HS or IHS of the chip. Use a plastic putty knife to spread it evenly across the surface. Spread it thin- you should be able to see (faint) streaks of metal where the putty knife is not exactly flat. Secure the two surfaces together firmly.

Curing time is stated as 2000 hours in the instructions, but my experience is that it should be within one week. It's best to run hot/idle/off in rotation to expedite curing. You may see from 3-8C difference from fresh application to full curing.

Good luck









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I don't know if the extra NB voltage will help your RAM, but it won't help your CPU, my PD 805 @ 3.5GHz and my NB voltage is on the minimum setting. I think 1.2***v?

As for the voltage, I wouldn't worry, I've been running mine over 1.4v since I got it last year May and I folded 24/7 with it till a month or so ago. It's still good as new, well not quite, I lapped it. So it has a shiny copper top.










I don't thinkn the extra NB voltage will help you guys out either. You're simply not running the FSB hard enough to need it.

1.4875V on the 805?







how's your temps with that zalman? I tried to keep my Vcore below 1.325V on the 820- it ran hella hot.


----------



## Perry

So in your opinion my memory has pretty much reached its limit at 960. I'll do some more work on it tonight possible but I have a raid to attend to in Lord Of The Rings Online so I can't promise anything. I'm kinda ramped to pump the voltage on the 805 to 1.4v and see if it'll stay stable at 3.6Ghz since it's been my goal all along - a 1Ghz -stable- overclock.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


1.4875V on the 805?







how's your temps with that zalman? I tried to keep my Vcore below 1.325V on the 820- it ran hella hot.


I let it run for a bit to reach max temp.
My 2x120mm case fans are running 1200rpm, Zalman on max fan speed and my room temp is 26, case temp is 28.

I just verified CPU-Z, because I haven't done it with the new one.
I'll let the picture tell the rest of the story.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


So in your opinion my memory has pretty much reached its limit at 960. I'll do some more work on it tonight possible but I have a raid to attend to in Lord Of The Rings Online so I can't promise anything. I'm kinda ramped to pump the voltage on the 805 to 1.4v and see if it'll stay stable at 3.6Ghz since it's been my goal all along - a 1Ghz -stable- overclock.


Not necessarily. You could try 5-5-5-15 or 5-5-5-18 timings to see if you can get more MHz, although I don't think that you'll get a noticible performance increase. I saw very little difference in benchmark and real world performance running my RAM @ 800/1000MHz (same timings) with the 820. Once your RAM speed passes the FSB the performance gains are nominal. Ultimately, I setteled for tighter timings with a lower DDR speed to get the best gain running the D820 1:1 with my memory.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Any DIY store?


Lol, I know where to get one...but I'm not really feelin' motivated to put any more money into this rig for a bit, as I'm about to drop ~$500 on an unrelated hobby.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Well, my overclock is stuck at 3.4Ghz and my memory is still at 960mhz. I think I'll re-run my cables (it's been a mess since I built the rig), reseat the northbridge heatsink with some AS5 (any ideas how how best to apply it since this isn't the usual CPU application) and toy with the northbridge voltage (eek!).

While all of those may help with the CPU overclock will any of that help with the memory overclock? I may simply be stuck at 960mhz which isn't too bad for DDR-800 with timings of 5-4-4-15-2t but I'd like to get at least 40mhz more out of the modules if possible.

Good to know that the pencil mod won't really be needed. That's a bit dodgy for me anyway. I tend to colour outside the lines.









As for the CPU voltage, I won't go over 1.4v simply because, as much as I would love to get a 6420 or 6550 I simply can't afford to replace it if it blows or goes out early. Besides, I don't think my Tempest will be able to keep the temperatures down below 60, which is my cut off just to be safe.

Hmm...I'm feeling kind of saucey and may reseat my video card heatsink as well assuming I don't need to get new thermal pads for the memory. Perhaps that'll take a bit more reading.


I agree with others that more vNB shouldn't help. Maybe, maybe, maybe going to 1.39 will help, but there's no reason to go higher until you're at least in the 375FSB range.

As for reseating, I do basically what Ravin said. I find it's much easier to do it on the chip than on the HS, though. Another thing you can do to help is to add a tiny, tiny bit to the HS, spread it around, and then wipe it all off with a coffee filter. As long as you wipe it off fully, this will leave tiny particles of the AS5 in the small grooves in the HS, which will provide for better contact (assuming you applied a sufficiently SMALL amount of TIM to the chip itself).


----------



## Gauvenator

wow look almost 400 pages!!!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Not necessarily. You could try 5-5-5-15 or 5-5-5-18 timings to see if you can get more MHz, although I don't think that you'll get a noticible performance increase. I saw very little difference in benchmark and real world performance running my RAM @ 800/1000MHz (same timings) with the 820. Once your RAM speed passes the FSB the performance gains are nominal. Ultimately, I setteled for tighter timings with a lower DDR speed to get the best gain running the D820 1:1 with my memory.


Meant to say something related to this in my last post:

Rather than trying to get 1000MHz, you'll probably see much greater performance gains by reducing your RAM clock until you're stable at a CAS of 4, and then tightening the rest of your timings as well. Because going from 5-4 in CAS represents a 20% decrease in the 'real time' CAS latency, as long as you don't have to go down to 768 your CAS will decrease. Of course, lowering the clock slows down all your other timings, so that's not a perfect equivalence, but I'm fairly certain that as long as you're around 850MHz or faster you'll see a performance gain with a slower clock and tighter timings.

Don't forget to tweak the tRC timing as well--I got mine from 30 on auto to 7!


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


wow look almost 400 pages!!!


You'd think this thread would have died by now with all the other motherboards coming out. This board seems to stick around for some reason.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


wow look almost 400 pages!!!


and where is our founder???? WTH happened to dpawl?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


wow look almost 400 pages!!!


Umm, I'm only at page 100







but 40 replies per page haha. I can't believe how fast this grew

*cries* I remember seeing this thread when it was first created... I feel so old


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


You'd think this thread would have died by now with all the other motherboards coming out. This board seems to stick around for some reason.










I guess we picked a pretty sweet board








woot!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
and where is our founder???? WTH happened to dpawl?

I cut off his head. THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE!

j/k


----------



## Kopi

Hey guys, long time no see.

I was banned.

Whatever, I'm back yo.

My motherboards dead I think

Can't hold 3.2ghz anymore

Swapped CPU's, still couldn't hold that (3.2 was stable in other rig)

Can't bother to RMA because of 3 weeks without PC

EZ flash bios doesn't work

Tried flashing bios by floppy, wont work, 0608 says "Downgraded BIOS not suitable for system" error

Going watercooling on my DS3 rig

Have VF-1000 for sale if anyones interested.

Thats all for now

Too many lines

Oh well, too late


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
My P5N-e Thread sense kicked in and i clicked on OCN. Turns out P5N thread was in top 10..this happens all the time.

Lol....I was wondering what happened to you. How did adding cooling to the MOSFETS help you out way back when????


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Hey guys, long time no see.

I was banned.

Whatever, I'm back yo.

My motherboards dead I think

Can't hold 3.2ghz anymore

Swapped CPU's, still couldn't hold that (3.2 was stable in other rig)

Can't bother to RMA because of 3 weeks without PC

EZ flash bios doesn't work

Tried flashing bios by floppy, wont work, 0608 says "Downgraded BIOS not suitable for system" error

Going watercooling on my DS3 rig

Have VF-1000 for sale if anyones interested.

Thats all for now

Too many lines

Oh well, too late

Can you tell us what voltages you were running on CPU, NB, and RAM? My last board stopped being able to hold 3.2GHz as well. I thought it was heat related, so I replaced all my cooling. Going straight back to my old OC still wasn't stable, so I decided to try a new BIOS since I was still on the release BIOS. Tried flashing to 0608 and it corrupted the CMOS so I needed a new chip = RMA. But i always suspected that the instability and maybe even the bad BIOS flash were actually due to having run 1.75V on the NB 24/7 for 3 months.

Also, there's a way around that downgraded BIOS error, although I can't remember what it is at the moment. Ravin or Asce should know...if not, go digging through this thread


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Also, there's a way around that downgraded BIOS error, although I can't remember what it is at the moment. Ravin or Asce should know...if not, go digging through this thread









Clear the CMOS by pulling the jumper by the SATA ports.


----------



## rsfkevski

Anyone tried the E21** series of processors on this board yet?


----------



## hometoast

Ok so I don't have a problem w/ my CPU tests but Orthos hangs when I test RAM.

Ran 400x8 for 3.2 Ghz.
vcore was one step over 1.225 (+100mV)
vdimm at 2.178
nb at 1.393
ram at 4-4-4-12,
LDT at 1x.

when I get a hand from memory test, what should be my next move? more vcore? loosen timings? bump nb to 1.5? (nb is at stock cooling cpu has AC freezer 7.)


----------



## Kopi

Never got around to adding the mosfet coolers. Plan was to put the HR-05 SLI on and that, but the HR-05 came without a mounting kit..so i never mounted it and never got in to put the sinks on.

1.5nb
2.2vdimm (only 915mhz, it memtests ok)
1.35 all the way up to 1.4v (with 100mv on)


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Ok so I don't have a problem w/ my CPU tests but Orthos hangs when I test RAM.

Ran 400x8 for 3.2 Ghz.
vcore was one step over 1.225 (+100mV)
vdimm at 2.178
nb at 1.393
ram at 4-4-4-12,
LDT at 1x.

when I get a hand from memory test, what should be my next move? more vcore? loosen timings? bump nb to 1.5? (nb is at stock cooling cpu has AC freezer 7.)

Try bumping up your NB to 1.5, if that does not work try loosening your timings and bringing the NB down to 1.39


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Never got around to adding the mosfet coolers. Plan was to put the HR-05 SLI on and that, but the HR-05 came without a mounting kit..so i never mounted it and never got in to put the sinks on.

1.5nb
2.2vdimm (only 915mhz, it memtests ok)
1.35 all the way up to 1.4v (with 100mv on)

Hrrm...wonder if the mosfets (maybe even vdimm mosfets?) burned out a bit over time and made your OC unstable. i've heard people say running over 2.2 without mosfet cooling can be bad news. what were you cooling the NB with?


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsfkevski* 
Anyone tried the E21** series of processors on this board yet?

Check this out

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249714

*
E2160 rocks !!! but i hoping to see more people like me using E2160 + P5N-E SLI combo !!
ANYONE !???

By the way, 400pgs for this lovely board !!! SWEEET !!! keep it going

*


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


Check this out

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=249714

*
E2160 rocks !!! but i hoping to see more people like me using E2160 + P5N-E SLI combo !!
ANYONE !???

By the way, 400pgs for this lovely board !!! SWEEET !!! keep it going

*


I am very tempted to get a E21*0 CPU, because it is so cheap, but the 1MB cache is a let down. Even my Pentium D has 1MB per core (2MB total). I'm now looking at either the Q6600 or E6550.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I am very tempted to get a E21*0 CPU, because it is so cheap, but the 1MB cache is a let down. Even my Pentium D has 1MB per core (2MB total). I'm now looking at either the Q6600 or E6550.









I'd say go quad, unless you have your heart set on a stellar OC on the P5N-E.


----------



## Christiaan

My aim is 350FSB with the Q6600.
If I can get that, I'm happy.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I am very tempted to get a E21*0 CPU, because it is so cheap, but the 1MB cache is a let down. Even my Pentium D has 1MB per core (2MB total). I'm now looking at either the Q6600 or E6550.









you can get the E21X0 and have fun OC 1st !!! dont go quad at the moment because the new 45nm processors with 12MB L2 Cache will be out soon !!!!!!!!

*OUR BOARD CAN SUPPORT 45nm NEW PROCESSORS !!! wow !!!*


----------



## Perry

Ok, another question - will updating the BIOS help with overclocking my memory and CPU? My answer would be yes.

I've been the kind of person who, if they aren't having any problems with their board, will not update their BIOS. I'm still at 0202 so perhaps it's time to jump up to 0608 (I believe - whichever is before the beta BIOS).


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


My aim is 350FSB with the Q6600.
If I can get that, I'm happy.


I was able to hit it, but my RAM was not happy with the divider. Stable with 5-5-5-18 timings, unstable any tighter- that's why I'm hanging out @ 333*9 currently- much better divider, much better RAM timings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Ok, another question - will updating the BIOS help with overclocking my memory and CPU? My answer would be yes.

I've been the kind of person who, if they aren't having any problems with their board, will not update their BIOS. I'm still at 0202 so perhaps it's time to jump up to 0608 (I believe - whichever is before the beta BIOS).


IMO 0608 is the best one out there to date.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


you can get the E21X0 and have fun OC 1st !!! dont go quad at the moment because the new 45nm processors with 12MB L2 Cache will be out soon !!!!!!!!

*OUR BOARD CAN SUPPORT 45nm NEW PROCESSORS !!! wow !!!*


It can support the 45nm with bios 0703, but LOTS of ppl have problems with 0703 and OC. That may be different with the 45nm chips though. Also this board has issues with the voltage regulation- I think the quads pull too much current to get a higher FSB. This also may or may not be a problem for the 45nm chips- the tech is totally new, so no one (save the insiders) really knows how the are going to do. I suspect that intel has made HUGE strides in the gate leakage problems, and the 45nm parts will oc well on very low voltage.

IMO skip the 45nm tech and wait till the nehalem die shrink. It will give some time to see how the new High K+ transistors operate/oc/fail.


----------



## TriBeCa

0608 might help your OC, yeah. No guarentee though....


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I was able to hit it, but my RAM was not happy with the divider. Stable with 5-5-5-18 timings, unstable any tighter- that's why I'm hanging out @ 333*9 currently- much better divider, much better RAM timings.

IMO 0608 is the best one out there to date.


I want to run 1:1, which I can do. Currently my RAM is 1:2. 175FSB:350RAM with 4:4:4:9 timings.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I want to run 1:1, which I can do. Currently my RAM is 1:2. 175FSB:350RAM with 4:4:4:9 timings.


So you have two options.... Running TRUE 1:1 will put your RAM @ DDR rate of 700MHz, or run QDR 1:1, which clocks your RAM @ DDR of 1400MHz.

For me, downclocking my RAM from DDR1000 to DDR700 is not a good option- I take a huge performance hit. DDR800 would be acceptable for me if I could get 3-3-3-6 1T, but I cant post past 375MHz FSB to get 400fsb/1600QDR/800DDR


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


So you have two options.... Running TRUE 1:1 will put your RAM @ DDR rate of 700MHz, or run QDR 1:1, which clocks your RAM @ DDR of 1400MHz.

For me, downclocking my RAM from DDR1000 to DDR700 is not a good option- I take a huge performance hit. DDR800 would be acceptable for me if I could get 3-3-3-6 1T, but I cant post past 375MHz FSB to get 400fsb/1600QDR/800DDR










Hehe, ahh, but you see, I have DDR2 667 RAM.








So I am overclocking them.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hehe, ahh, but you see, I have DDR2 667 RAM.








So I am overclocking them.










Yup. This is true. I'd say go with the quad then. IMO a 25% OC is not too shabby- especially if you can undervolt to run the CPU cooler. My VID is 1.2875V, currently running 1.250V (and plan to drop at the next reboot). My temps are an insane low near 50C load on the stock intel cooler.

You will always be able to upgrade to P35/X38/X48 board to get a higher OC once the quad starts to lag behind in performance. Probably by then Intel will be 2 archetectures down the road.


----------



## TriBeCa

mosfet sinks in place, i'm back running my sig OC. dunno if it's stable yet, but i haven't seen any random reboots.

also...something freakish has happened. Installing the vdimm mosfet sinks required removing the CPU cooler. at 1.56vcore (1.48 under load) my temps appear to be 8-10C cooler than they were before? ***? and my last cooler seating was like 2C over ambients max stock idle. can anyone explain this? AS5 hasn't even cured yet.... we'll see how the temps are in a few hours, but....


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


mosfet sinks in place, i'm back running my sig OC. dunno if it's stable yet, but i haven't seen any random reboots.

also...something freakish has happened. Installing the vdimm mosfet sinks required removing the CPU cooler. at 1.56vcore (1.48 under load) my temps appear to be 8-10C cooler than they were before? ***? and my last cooler seating was like 2C over ambients max stock idle. can anyone explain this? AS5 hasn't even cured yet.... we'll see how the temps are in a few hours, but....


Maybe the extra heat dissapation on the MOSFETS helps out the CPU. They are pretty close together, and the MOSFETS run hella hot when the Vcore is cranked. That or you just got a really good mount on your HS.

Edit: now testing 1.235Vcore.....


----------



## TriBeCa

i thought of both of those...but I notice now that the MB temp is like 10C cooler, as is the GPU???

And I really, really doubt it's the HS seating, as the last setup idle on stock at like 2C over ambients. Not really possible to get much lower than that, so I assume the last seat was good....


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
i thought of both of those...but I notice now that the MB temp is like 10C cooler, as is the GPU???

And I really, really doubt it's the HS seating, as the last setup idle on stock at like 2C over ambients. Not really possible to get much lower than that, so I assume the last seat was good....

very interesting indeed. Room temp the same? I'd say that it's likely that reducing strain on the MOSFETs by cooling is giving you cleaner power all around, reducing the load on other components. But that is guestimation from experience in industrial electric supply.

For example, You have a motor rated to run 480V/10A @70F ambient, but ambients can climb to 120F. This will increase the resistance of the motor coils, thus reducing current @ the motor. All things being equal, you are still using 480V, and still pulling 4800W, just the resistance and current are slightly different. The electronics inside the motor control panel will also see an increase in thermal output, due to the increased resistance. I've seen many starter switches burn out in just this fashion.

So with your setup that you are seeing the opposite effect using the same principle.

50 minutes strong @ 1.235Vcore


----------



## TriBeCa

makes sense--i forgot about that increased resistance with increased heat thing, though I saw a cool demo of it recently involving liquid nitrogen and an iron ring.

i'd love to see someone else pushing >1.5vcore try cooling their mosfets and see if they get a similar effect....

if this OC is stable I'm gonna try pushing my OC up further. I'll FSB overclock again, see if I can push past my prior wall of 440 FSB, and then try to get stable a little further up.

either way i'm loving these temps


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
makes sense--i forgot about that increased resistance with increased heat thing, though I saw a cool demo of it recently involving liquid nitrogen and an iron ring.

i'd love to see someone else pushing >1.5vcore try cooling their mosfets and see if they get a similar effect....

if this OC is stable I'm gonna try pushing my OC up further. I'll FSB overclock again, see if I can push past my prior wall of 440 FSB, and then try to get stable a little further up.

either way i'm loving these temps










Did you put sinks on all the MOSFETS or just the ones near the LPT/PS2 ports?


----------



## Kopi

Ram my NB at 1.5 all the time, never touched 40c.

Its orthos stable and all, just gaming takes it down.

Tried a different PSU and CPU and Ram and GPU


----------



## TriBeCa

all the mosfets except the two or three that are down by the front chassis fan connector. I have no idea what those ones are for, but the sinks i have wouldn't fit in there anyway as they're too close to other board components.

i have 5 sinks on the 8 mosfets between the CPU socket and the I/O port panel, and 2 sinks on the 3 mosfets above the CPU socket (next to the where the PSU is in a normal case). those little anodized aluminum zalman vram sinks i'm using have a pretty impressive amount of surface area for their size.

later tonight or tommorow i can post pics of the sinks on the CPU mosfets if you want. can't do the vdimm ones without removing the cpu cooler again, so i'm not gonna do that


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Ram my NB at 1.5 all the time, never touched 40c.

Its orthos stable and all, just gaming takes it down.

Tried a different PSU and CPU and Ram and GPU

only gaming takes it down? maybe somethings overheating when the GPU gets hot? does it survive a few (3 or 4) consecutive runs of 3dmark06?


----------



## TriBeCa

nice work! 3.2GHz on a quad is no mean feat on this board.

in other news, I'm updating the first post with info on mosfet cooling. It _appears_ that adding zalman vram heatsinks to the mosfets have dropped my system temps on _all_ components by 8-10C...that is, CPU, MB, and GPU all dropped by that much. Mind I'm running at 1.567V on the CPU...people running less won't see this much change.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


all the mosfets except the two or three that are down by the front chassis fan connector. I have no idea what those ones are for, but the sinks i have wouldn't fit in there anyway as they're too close to other board components.

i have 5 sinks on the 8 mosfets between the CPU socket and the I/O port panel, and 2 sinks on the 3 mosfets above the CPU socket (next to the where the PSU is in a normal case). those little anodized aluminum zalman vram sinks i'm using have a pretty impressive amount of surface area for their size.

later tonight or tommorow i can post pics of the sinks on the CPU mosfets if you want. can't do the vdimm ones without removing the cpu cooler again, so i'm not gonna do that










I think those are for the Vdimm. The ones by the top of the CPU (bottom in my case) are going to be a problem with the intel HS- there is almost no clearance between them. What a shame that I'll have to swap the CPU cooler to cool the MOSFETs- for once the TDP of an intel chip is within the capabilities of the stock cooler.

Edit: 2 hours stable @ 1.235Vcore, dropping down!


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, that was my understanding as well.

the smaller of the zalman sinks (the set includes 4 big ones and 4 little ones) is really only like 1/4" high...you sure they won't fit?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yeah, that was my understanding as well.

the smaller of the zalman sinks (the set includes 4 big ones and 4 little ones) is really only like 1/4" high...you sure they won't fit?


1/4" will be contacting the intel HS. no dice.

I'm getting close to my lowest Vcore- 1.2000 gave me a reboot under load, I'm testing 1.213V now.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


only gaming takes it down? maybe somethings overheating when the GPU gets hot? does it survive a few (3 or 4) consecutive runs of 3dmark06?


Havn't tried that, I will.

GPU doesn't tough 40c, on air.

Arctic Cooling Accelero S1 FTW!


----------



## TriBeCa

lol well i guess it's not the gpu temp then


----------



## Ravin

Lowest stable Vcore: 1.221xV. Droop under load is to 1.14V This is definitely very good evidence that the P5N-E is holding back the OC on the Q6600 G0.

That is about 8% undervolt on a 25% OC.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Lowest stable Vcore: 1.221xV. Droop under load is to 1.14V This is definitely very good evidence that the P5N-E is holding back the OC on the Q6600 G0.

That is about 8% undervolt on a 25% OC.










But this is good isn't it?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


But this is good isn't it?


Hella good. It'll keep me from melting another $300 CPU. Kinda OT- I confirmed that the D820 is indeed dead. Good!








It's still under warranty!


----------



## TriBeCa

bioshock caused 2 BSOD reboots, first in my sig OC and then with RAM at 4-4-4-12-30 timings, so this OC isn't stable yet.

any brillian ideas would be greatly appreciated. it's either too much voltage on the CPU, too little voltage on the cpu (seems hard to believe, but ya never know), RAM instability, or part of the boards FSB hole. once my %$^#ing thumb drive gets back from corsair RMA (their RMA department is really wacky...first their system failed to generate and send me an RMA number so I had to call them back, and then i still hadn't heard from them after my returned part had been there for 10 days...I called them yesterday and they said it'd ship at the end of the day and I'd get an email with a tracking number, but I still haven't gotten that) and I have some time on my hands, I'll try to get stable properly at 3.4GHz. For now I'm back to 3GHz.

One interesting thing was that when I tried to go back to 3GHz but left my RAM at 425 (850 ddr), I couldn't post. must be something funny about the FSB:RAM divier that created.


----------



## Freddy_Bobbins

hey everyone this is my first post in this thread and im really exited about it because i now have a P5N-E SLi, so anyways, with my sig rig im running, (1500)375X8=3000MHz with a NBvolt=1.5xx vcore=1.25 vdimm=2.0x timmings of 4-4-4-12-2T-30. i have my mem and fsb linked/synked so the mem is only running at 375x2=750mhz
so i cant get my fsb to up around 1550, or (387.5)
i tried uping NBvolt, vdimm, vcore, im new to intel so i dunno how many volt i can run through this proc. and general stuff like that. so anywho, what do u think i can do?


----------



## TriBeCa

check out the guide in my sig. 1550 is probably in the FSB hole of the board, although you'll likely need more vcore to post much higher than you're at now. i wouldn't recommend higher vNB except for suicide runs. try following the FSB overclocking section of the guide to find out what speeds you can post at, then go back to where you are now and try posting at those speeds, upping vcore as necessary. as long as your cores are under the thermal rating for your chip (61.4C) you can go up to 1.5vcore safely, and even high with minimal risk.


----------



## Ravin

Here it is....the official reason that the P5NE-SLI craps out on a quad OC.....The power is 3 phase. Compared to other quad compatible boards this is really low- most have 6-8 phase power.

Meaning....yes, you do get the volts you are asking for, but the amperage is likely to flux wildly when you start asking for more power. The problem is not limited to the Vcore- wat is actually happening is when you crank the volts for one component, the current is redirected away from the others.

The Vdroop mods may help to reduce the current flux to a point, but there is no way around having 3 phase power.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Here it is....the official reason that the P5NE-SLI craps out on a quad OC.....The power is 3 phase. Compared to other quad compatible boards this is really low- most have 6-8 phase power.

Meaning....yes, you do get the volts you are asking for, but the amperage is likely to flux wildly when you start asking for more power. The problem is not limited to the Vcore- wat is actually happening is when you crank the volts for one component, the current is redirected away from the others.

The Vdroop mods may help to reduce the current flux to a point, but there is no way around having 3 phase power.


Do you think we'll have more success with the 45nm quads coming out in January? Since they should be using less power.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Here it is....the official reason that the P5NE-SLI craps out on a quad OC.....The power is 3 phase. Compared to other quad compatible boards this is really low- most have 6-8 phase power.

Meaning....yes, you do get the volts you are asking for, but the amperage is likely to flux wildly when you start asking for more power. The problem is not limited to the Vcore- wat is actually happening is when you crank the volts for one component, the current is redirected away from the others.

The Vdroop mods may help to reduce the current flux to a point, but there is no way around having 3 phase power.

so this means you should be able to push your OC further if you can run other components on less power, right? and if you run fans off the PSU directly instead of the board plugs?


----------



## Perry

I think I'll reseat the northbridge heatsink tonight with some AS5 samiched (hehehe) in between.

I've searched here and on the intarwebz to try and find how to remove it but 100% fail.

...I have to stop typing like that.

Do any of you who have removed this before have any tips or instructions because I screw it up?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


so this means you should be able to push your OC further if you can run other components on less power, right? and if you run fans off the PSU directly instead of the board plugs?


One would assume so yes. Currently the only fan plugged in to my mobo is for the CPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Do any of you who have removed this before have any tips or instructions because I screw it up?










There are TIM removal kits. These basically include an oil based solvent (goo-gone, the orange smelly stuff) and a VOC based solvent (TCE, PCE, denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, ethanol). First clean with the oil solvent. If you're hard up you can use any cooking oil instead- just be neat about it. Wipe all excess away and then use the VOC solvent to remove the oil residue. Allow 15 minutes dry time, apply AS5.

Edit: I'd worry more about which VOC solvent to use. TCE is the best- but it is HIGHLY HAZARDOUS and not easy to obtain. Just make sure that any oily residue is removed before applying AS5.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Here it is....the official reason that the P5NE-SLI craps out on a quad OC.....The power is 3 phase. Compared to other quad compatible boards this is really low- most have 6-8 phase power.

Meaning....yes, you do get the volts you are asking for, but the amperage is likely to flux wildly when you start asking for more power. The problem is not limited to the Vcore- wat is actually happening is when you crank the volts for one component, the current is redirected away from the others.

The Vdroop mods may help to reduce the current flux to a point, but there is no way around having 3 phase power.

Nice job finding that out, good info rep+

Where did you find that out?


----------



## TriBeCa

Err...I thought he was asking how to get the NB itself off.

You need to remove the board and use a pair of needlenose pliars (or even regular pliars, if you're careful) on the clips on the back of the board. Be careful to grab the ENTIRE end of the clip, or you'll crush and misshape the clip and make it even hard to get off. However, you also need to be careful not to scratch the back of the board.

Not to scare you, this is a pretty easy process. But it is possible to mangle the clip so badly that it won't stay in when you reseat the NB. Just make sure that before you squeeze the pliars, the pliar ends are basically touching the board, but without actually excerting any pressure on the board your self. And if you do scratch it, don't panic. I've put tiny little scratches on the back of two of my boards with no adverse effects, and ASUS even accepted RMA's on both of them.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Nice job finding that out, good info rep+

Where did you find that out?


lolz....right here on OCN.









http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ard-right.html

Although the p35 boards are not yet posted, you can check with the MB makers url to see the specs. You can think of each "phase" as a pipeline so to speak. Each "pipe" can only deliver so much current, so the more pipes the easier it is to get a steady flow of water...errr or in this case electrons.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Err...I thought he was asking how to get the NB itself off.


----------



## Gauvenator

I got another 2gb of RAM for my PC today







Now its 4x1gb DDR2-800 5-5-5-12-2T

I've been running memtest86 for a while now, no errors so far....

Just posting because I was able to get 4 sticks of RAM working on this board; I've just heard of people having problems with that on this board.


----------



## jesusiscool

Hey all, i have just put PC probe II on my pc, and it hase the warning thing that my MB temp is too high, is 39-43 dgrees bad? Note that i havent meddle with the NB heatsink or have a aftermarket one.


----------



## TriBeCa

nah, you should be fine.

use better temp software though


----------



## jesusiscool

sweet, i might just stick to speed fan lol


----------



## Gauvenator

speedfan tends to give me lower readings at idle and higher under load compared to Asus Probe.

Is this normal?


----------



## TriBeCa

no idea...i pay no attention to asus probe.

note that asus probe's CPU temp is NOT the cpu core--it's the IHS casing. this is the main reason why asus probe is useless...it's the core temp you need to pay attention to, as that's what Intel's thermal rating refers to. ditto on the BIOS hardware monitor CPU temp.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jesusiscool* 
Hey all, i have just put PC probe II on my pc, and it hase the warning thing that my MB temp is too high, is 39-43 dgrees bad? Note that i havent meddle with the NB heatsink or have a aftermarket one.

You should be fine. During super hard gaming mine would reach about 44 degrees. Since I just reseated it with some AS5 I've noticed about a 2 degree drop already and that's after only 2 hours of use.


----------



## cscheat

Guys !

im thinking of changing a Processor.... any ideas? my E2160 is OC at 3.2Ghz right now...
playing UT3 demo at a smooth framerates of 60 and im still not satisfied...

i have feeling my 2 8800GTS SLI are being BOTTLENECKED !

any good processor for this board? Q6600 ?


----------



## jesusiscool

No, u dont need quad core unless ur going to be video editing, and other things that actually use 4 cores, go for a high end duel core, ull be able to over clock more, less heat, and quicker, oh and TriBeCa, my MB tem got up to 48degrees just befor, and it was on idle!!, im starting to worry now!


----------



## jesusiscool

if i was to get a new heatsink for it, what would you recommend?


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jesusiscool* 
No, u dont need quad core unless ur going to be video editing, and other things that actually use 4 cores, go for a high end duel core, ull be able to over clock more, less heat, and quicker, oh and TriBeCa, my MB tem got up to 48degrees just befor, and it was on idle!!, im starting to worry now!

wow jesusiscool !!

you are using E6850 !!! can u pls try to OC it to MAX? i guess it can go 4Ghz easily !!!
pls try and tell me !!!

I ever thought of getting this baby too !


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jesusiscool* 
if i was to get a new heatsink for it, what would you recommend?

For the NB or SB? I got a HR-05-SLI on both and it dropped my MB temps from 50 --> 30C, never get above 38C loaded now.


----------



## jesusiscool

Lol, i got it up to 3.4ghz easily, at about 46 degrees load, but havent bother to go much yet, im looking at getting a Thermalright ultra 120 for it. and it is my NB that is doing this, is it normal, and would that heatsink fit alrite if i had a Ultra 120?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


Guys !

im thinking of changing a Processor.... any ideas? my E2160 is OC at 3.2Ghz right now... 
playing UT3 demo at a smooth framerates of 60 and im still not satisfied...

i have feeling my 2 8800GTS SLI are being BOTTLENECKED !

any good processor for this board? Q6600 ?


What bottleneck?
You're playing at 60fps. Which is most LCD's max refresh rate.

Besides, I'm sure if you turned up the settings, you'd still get 60fps. Or are you already at max? If you are, don't complain. lol

Sorry dude, but in my opinion, I wouldn't buy a new CPU for your rig. You will see increased max fps, but your minimum won't be affected I reckon. For me minimum fps are what counts. It doesn't help your PC can get 200fps at some point in a game, but you get 20fps minimum at other points. That is a graphics bottleneck (it can't take the load).

Just my opinion. Use it, don't use it.


----------



## Perry

E6420 if you want to do it on the cheap. Apparently they're easily overclocked to 3.4-3.6Ghz plus you get the 1066 FSB and 2x2MB L2 cache.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


E6420 if you want to do it on the cheap. Apparently they're easily overclocked to 3.4-3.6Ghz plus you get the 1066 FSB and 2x2MB L2 cache.


He is better getting one of the E6*50 chips but it may require a bios flash


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
He is better getting one of the E6*50 chips but it may require a bios flash

Wow! You're right. I haven't checked the prices in a while.


----------



## xxfendrpnk3kxx

I have the p5ne board.. Everything has been running smooth, e6550 2x1 gig of corsair ram, 7600gt xfx, audigy 2zs gamer card.. So the other night thursday, i wanted to play crysis, but i needed to install new video drivers. So uninstall the old video drivers and the new it worked good, but the game stuttered a bit. So i played bf2 and was listening to music at the same time and i get this screatching sound and it hangs up, and it repeats the same beat and i shutdown the computer and no issue.. Then later im just listening to music and i turn up the wave volume within my sound pannel and the comp shuts down... After all that crap.. it would go past the post screen, where right after i should see the xp loading screen and it had something different.. said nvidia biosshield but with it up i couldnt ctrl-alt-dlt, so i had to restart and now it wont go past the post screen.. Its stuck at the begining where it says press tab to view post or delete to enter bios.. And i cant do anything, tried to boot from cd, reset the cmos and nothing.. Please help


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


I have the p5ne board.. Everything has been running smooth, e6550 2x1 gig of corsair ram, 7600gt xfx, audigy 2zs gamer card.. So the other night thursday, i wanted to play crysis, but i needed to install new video drivers. So uninstall the old video drivers and the new it worked good, but the game stuttered a bit. So i played bf2 and was listening to music at the same time and i get this screatching sound and it hangs up, and it repeats the same beat and i shutdown the computer and no issue.. Then later im just listening to music and i turn up the wave volume within my sound pannel and the comp shuts down... After all that crap.. it would go past the post screen, where right after i should see the xp loading screen and it had something different.. said nvidia biosshield but with it up i couldnt ctrl-alt-dlt, so i had to restart and now it wont go past the post screen.. Its stuck at the begining where it says press tab to view post or delete to enter bios.. And i cant do anything, tried to boot from cd, reset the cmos and nothing.. Please help










First try clearing the CMOS. Unplug the PSU and pull the jumper next to the SATA ports (see manual). Try resetting all your parameters to stock settings and see if that helps.

Fill in your system specs too. Any details on how you're set up will help us help you.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Wow! You're right. I haven't checked the prices in a while.










Either the 6750 or 6850 would be a good choice, just depends on the multi you want .


----------



## Perry

Do any of you know of an application that actively monitors memory voltage? Oddly enough the AI Overclocking has managed to get my memory above anything that I've been able to do manually but I'm worried that it's pumping too much current through them.

I've checked Everest, Asus Probe II, the nVidia monitoring application (I can't recall the name) but none of them show it. At least not that I could see.

Thanks!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


You should be fine. During super hard gaming mine would reach about 44 degrees. Since I just reseated it with some AS5 I've noticed about a 2 degree drop already and that's after only 2 hours of use.










and keep in mind that the MB sensor is actually the average of your NB and SB. since your SB hasn't changed, that's likely a 4C drop on the NB.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


oh and TriBeCa, my MB tem got up to 48degrees just befor, and it was on idle!!, im starting to worry now!


what are your ambients at? make sure you've tied down all the cables in your case so they don't impede airflow. you want to maximize the movement of air through your case, and your MB temp sensor will be particularly sensitive to this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jesusiscool*


if i was to get a new heatsink for it, what would you recommend?


I'm a fan of my Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II, and I can verify that it fits on this board with a TRUE.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Do any of you know of an application that actively monitors memory voltage? Oddly enough the AI Overclocking has managed to get my memory above anything that I've been able to do manually but I'm worried that it's pumping too much current through them.

I've checked Everest, Asus Probe II, the nVidia monitoring application (I can't recall the name) but none of them show it. At least not that I could see.

Thanks!


only way to get vdimm is to use a voltimeter.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
only way to get vdimm is to use a voltimeter.

So there's no applications that can actively monitor what voltage is being used on memory? Hmm...looks like it's back to work.

What's odd is that the AI Overclock has kept the 5, 4, 4, 15, 2t timings but is able to raise the frequency higher than I could using manual voltage adjustment. Could it be that the auto settings uses voltages in between the "ranges" that we see when we go in to do it ourselves?


----------



## TriBeCa

i doubt it, i believe the settings are as they are because those the only outputs the mosfets are capable of. of course with droop they'll change, but the board is attempting to supply the specified voltages.

in fiddling with my OC i've been observing some stability issues that can be resolved by *reducing* vdimm.... my RAM is 2.1V at stock, but i'm now running it at 1.92V. and when i was FSB OCing on Wed night I had it up to 900MHz with stock timings at 1.92. it wasn't stable, but I think it was the CPU that was the problem...and it was LESS stable with the vdimm at 2.1.

and there's no software that can monitor the vdimm because there's no DIMM voltage sensor on the board.


----------



## Asce

Got my rig out of the case since im drilling holes in it and at an ambient of 17Â°c im idling at 20Â°c


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 







Either the 6750 or 6850 would be a good choice, just depends on the multi you want .


I'm liking my 6750 even on stock. I still can't clock to 3.2. I fear its more a problem with the memory... either way this is still a huge upgrade for me


----------



## anjo

Thanks for all information shared here. Mainly the overclock manual, well done.

IÂ´m not new in overclock, but this babe (P5N-E Sli) is getting my nervous.
My config is, beside that motherboard:
- Corsair 6400 44412 2t XMS2 DHX at 2,08v
- E6850 with Thermaltake BigTyphoon
- just resealed the NB HS with Akasa, as instructed on manual.
- Windows Vista x86

With no overclock and not heavy load (room temperature is a litle hot, around 32Âºc) the MB temp gets 56Âº C and the CPU temp gets 52Âºc, I read earlier here that this temperature is hot for NB, I donÂ´t agree, my other motherboard with nforce 4 AMD x16 on MSI diamond plus runs around 66Âº and they say itÂ´s ok, and my 8800GTX just runs at 77Âº C. Well, just a observation.

And now some questions:

. CPU-Z points 1,4 vcore when the bios vcore is set to auto, unlinked, frequency 1333 mhz, multiplier to 9 (isnÂ´t this too high for auto on stock?).
. The first hole and only one i found was the first at 1600 FSB, didnÂ´t tried more, because clearing CMOS is just too pain, i have to unplug everything, take the battery, switch the jumpers, get the jumper back on, and, finally, put the battery again (isnÂ´t any way easier than that ?).
. whatÂ´s the best to overclock: multiplier low and hight frequency our multiplier stock (9) and raise frequency ?
. how high can i go with the E6850 on air (4 Ghz?).

Thanks in advance


----------



## FR4GM4ST3R

Well 1,4 vcore is a bit odd, i run 1,392 but thats at 3,6 GHz with a 1600 FSB? (1,3 + 0.1 as stated in the guide) As for your other question, what jumpers? I just chisel the battery out with a screwdriver, hold it for a second and put it back in again to clear the CMOS. (Okay im not quite so brutal but you get the idea...) Personally i cant move the multiplier in any direction anyway so i just keep it at stock and increase the FSB. Lastly, i have heard of E6850s doing 4 GHz no sweat on air, but its probably not a good idea to run that 24/7.

Hope it helps!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxfendrpnk3kxx*


I have the p5ne board.. Everything has been running smooth, e6550 2x1 gig of corsair ram, 7600gt xfx, audigy 2zs gamer card.. So the other night thursday, i wanted to play crysis, but i needed to install new video drivers. So uninstall the old video drivers and the new it worked good, but the game stuttered a bit. So i played bf2 and was listening to music at the same time and i get this screatching sound and it hangs up, and it repeats the same beat and i shutdown the computer and no issue.. Then later im just listening to music and i turn up the wave volume within my sound pannel and the comp shuts down... After all that crap.. it would go past the post screen, where right after i should see the xp loading screen and it had something different.. said nvidia biosshield but with it up i couldnt ctrl-alt-dlt, so i had to restart and now it wont go past the post screen.. Its stuck at the begining where it says press tab to view post or delete to enter bios.. And i cant do anything, tried to boot from cd, reset the cmos and nothing.. Please help










crysis beta may have corrupted your OS


----------



## Ravin

Got some heatsinks on the way for the MOSFETS and 7600gt ram. All copper too


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *anjo* 
Thanks for all information shared here. Mainly the overclock manual, well done.

IÂ´m not new in overclock, but this babe (P5N-E Sli) is getting my nervous.
My config is, beside that motherboard:
- Corsair 6400 44412 2t XMS2 DHX at 2,08v
- E6850 with Thermaltake BigTyphoon
- just resealed the NB HS with Akasa, as instructed on manual.
- Windows Vista x86

With no overclock and not heavy load (room temperature is a litle hot, around 32Âºc) the MB temp gets 56Âº C and the CPU temp gets 52Âºc, I read earlier here that this temperature is hot for NB, I donÂ´t agree, my other motherboard with nforce 4 AMD x16 on MSI diamond plus runs around 66Âº and they say itÂ´s ok, and my 8800GTX just runs at 77Âº C. Well, just a observation.

And now some questions:

. CPU-Z points 1,4 vcore when the bios vcore is set to auto, unlinked, frequency 1333 mhz, multiplier to 9 (isnÂ´t this too high for auto on stock?).
. The first hole and only one i found was the first at 1600 FSB, didnÂ´t tried more, because clearing CMOS is just too pain, i have to unplug everything, take the battery, switch the jumpers, get the jumper back on, and, finally, put the battery again (isnÂ´t any way easier than that ?).
. whatÂ´s the best to overclock: multiplier low and hight frequency our multiplier stock (9) and raise frequency ?
. how high can i go with the E6850 on air (4 Ghz?).

Thanks in advance

Hey there. You should put those system specs in your sig, it'll help us help you







Go to 'user cp' and hit 'edit system' over on the left.

Also, you'll be better off asking these questions over in the stickied P5N-E thread, at the top of the page. There's more people who check in there regularly who have experience with the board.

But to answer your questions:

Yes, 1.4V is too much, but it doesn't at all surprise me that that's what the board is giving you. This board seems to overdo everything on auto









Those MB temps seem quite high. How many GFX cards do you have in your rig? How's the case airflow? Make sure all cables are tied back and kept out of the way so air can flow through your case. As you say, the temps probably aren't enough to damage anything, but from seeing lots of people with this board discuss what their MB temp readings are, most people with a setup like yours wouldn't be seeing much more than 40C at stock idle, and some even less.

When I fail a post, here's what I do:
1) hit the reset button once. 99% of the time if my board never posted once, the ASUS CrashFree BIOS will detect that it failed an OC and boot with stock settings, allowing me to get to the BIOS and change the settings
2) if the above doesn't work (which is almost always the case if the board DID post, but it hangs BEFORE starting to boot windows), I mash the reset button 15-20 times, and then cut power to PSU right away. 99% of the time this will reset the CMOS (have to reset system clock, etc etc). On my current board, out of about a hundred failed POSTs, I've had to do the battery+jumper thing exactly once.

As for your OC, i'd go with your stock multi. On high multi, low FSB chips it can be worth running a lower than stock multi because you get extra performance out of your RAM that way, but you've got a (very) high FSB chip, so stick with your stock multi.

And yeah, 4GHz shouldn't be impossible. Even the lowest FSB walls I've seen on this board will allow for a 444FSB, which will put you at 4GHz. However, based on the temps you're seeing already, you'll probably have to upgrade your cooling situation. And if you're aim is to hit 4GHz I'd really recommend some mosfet cooling as well, as you'll probably be pushing some pretty heavy voltages around.

Hope that helps! Hope to see you over in the other P5N-E thread!


----------



## Chani.-

how do i get to the vDimm option in my BIOS its pretty hard for me considering im such a newbie to these things, i've been trying to get my 4x1GB ram to work for days i even got it to POST once but then it just freezed as soon as it hit the BIOS screen so i removed it again, i had to make the NB to 1.56v to even get it to post and it wouldnt go past that and i'm running BIOS rev 0608 now so any help?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chani.-* 
how do i get to the vDimm option in my BIOS its pretty hard for me considering im such a newbie to these things, i've been trying to get my 4x1GB ram to work for days i even got it to POST once but then it just freezed as soon as it hit the BIOS screen so i removed it again, i had to make the NB to 1.56v to even get it to post and it wouldnt go past that and i'm running BIOS rev 0608 now so any help?

Try upping your Vcore some...I think someone said that more ram pieces can suck volts from the cpu.


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chani.-* 
how do i get to the vDimm option in my BIOS its pretty hard for me considering im such a newbie to these things, i've been trying to get my 4x1GB ram to work for days i even got it to POST once but then it just freezed as soon as it hit the BIOS screen so i removed it again, i had to make the NB to 1.56v to even get it to post and it wouldnt go past that and i'm running BIOS rev 0608 now so any help?

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777

If that doesn't work try the new sticks without your old sticks, maybe you have a faulty stick.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Got some heatsinks on the way for the MOSFETS and 7600gt ram. All copper too









can't wait to hear how the mosfet cooling works out for you









of course you won't see a temp diff with your currently absurdly low vcore







but hopefully you can push the q6600 a little farther with more vcore?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chani.-* 
how do i get to the vDimm option in my BIOS its pretty hard for me considering im such a newbie to these things, i've been trying to get my 4x1GB ram to work for days i even got it to POST once but then it just freezed as soon as it hit the BIOS screen so i removed it again, i had to make the NB to 1.56v to even get it to post and it wouldnt go past that and i'm running BIOS rev 0608 now so any help?

how do you get to the vdimm option? well since it seems you're changing the NB voltage, it's...just right next to the vNB, on the same screen.


----------



## Chani.-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Murlocke* 
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777

If that doesn't work try the new sticks without your old sticks, maybe you have a faulty stick.

it says update does not apply to my system


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


What bottleneck?
You're playing at 60fps. Which is most LCD's max refresh rate.

Besides, I'm sure if you turned up the settings, you'd still get 60fps. Or are you already at max? If you are, don't complain. lol

Sorry dude, but in my opinion, I wouldn't buy a new CPU for your rig. You will see increased max fps, but your minimum won't be affected I reckon. For me minimum fps are what counts. It doesn't help your PC can get 200fps at some point in a game, but you get 20fps minimum at other points. That is a graphics bottleneck (it can't take the load).

Just my opinion. Use it, don't use it.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


E6420 if you want to do it on the cheap. Apparently they're easily overclocked to 3.4-3.6Ghz plus you get the 1066 FSB and 2x2MB L2 cache.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


He is better getting one of the E6*50 chips but it may require a bios flash


thanks for the advices bro !!!

but should i go quad ?

E6850 vs Q6600 ?? i just worry of Crysis...


----------



## Murlocke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


thanks for the advices bro !!!

but should i go quad ?

E6850 vs Q6600 ?? i just worry of Crysis...










If you want to be "more" futureproof and want better frames in crysis I would go with a quad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chani.-*


it says update does not apply to my system










Make sure you downloaded the right one. Theres a 32-bit and 64-bit one.


----------



## Asce

If you get a Quad you will be lucky to hit 3.0Ghz on this board


----------



## Christiaan

I'd say go with the Q6600, I'm looking into getting one myself.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


If you get a Quad you will be lucky to hit 3.0Ghz on this board


I don't know man. Ravin is having some nice results. 3Ghz @ 1.22v is very impressive in my books.


----------



## Asce

For some reason, my rig keeps blue screening. Ive tired upping the vcore to 1.456 but that didnt help and now im trying it at 3.4Ghz, with a vcore of 1.456, nb of 1.7 and im going to see if that helps.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


For some reason, my rig keeps blue screening. Ive tired upping the vcore to 1.456 but that didnt help and now im trying it at 3.4Ghz, with a vcore of 1.456, nb of 1.7 and im going to see if that helps.


Might be a wall on your board, I can boot 3.4ghz fine at 1.425V and max NB, but its not orthos stable, not even 5 seconds, but if I even try 3.45ghz with way more voltage instant blue screen before windows even tries to load.


----------



## Asce

Its been stable enough to play BF2142 and MOH:A as i havent ran Orthos for that setting. It does the same thing even at 3.2Ghz so it cant be a fsb wall. Atm i get to 25 mins in Orthos and it BSOD. Ive redone the pencil volt mod and i will see if that helps.


----------



## Asce

Update:

Its not vcore thats the problem since it crashed even with the pencil mod so im now trying stock settings and see if that does anything.


----------



## pheoxs

That sucks to hear Asce, I keep meaning to do a pencil mod but its hard in a dorm room with a roommate that sits there and annoyingly never shuts up about questions about what your doing lol... maybe over Christmas break. Sure it might not be a ram problem? I've never had a BSOD yet from othos, just either it shutdown or orthos just says a rounding error.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


I'd say go with the Q6600, I'm looking into getting one myself.

I don't know man. Ravin is having some nice results. 3Ghz @ 1.22v is very impressive in my books.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


If you get a Quad you will be lucky to hit 3.0Ghz on this board



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Murlocke*


If you want to be "more" futureproof and want better frames in crysis I would go with a quad.

Make sure you downloaded the right one. Theres a 32-bit and 64-bit one.


Would be nice if can hit 4Ghz


----------



## FR4GM4ST3R

3825MHz stable (425*9) for over 20 minutes so far thanks to this guide! I do have a few questions however if anyone would be so kind as to take a minute to help me out...

First of all, at 3825MHz i am running between 1,424 to 1,440v - am i aproximately where i want to be at? I believe i set the BIOS setting to 1,425v and enabled +100mv, which brings me to my other question:
What exactly does the +100mv feature do? I have read the guide but cant seem to find a clear and distinct answer as to exactly what this feature does - all i know is i can overclock far better with it enabled. Is my mobo secretly running higher voltage through the processor without my knowledge? Again someone might laugh at this question but im new so any help is appreciated!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


For some reason, my rig keeps blue screening. Ive tired upping the vcore to 1.456 but that didnt help and now im trying it at 3.4Ghz, with a vcore of 1.456, nb of 1.7 and im going to see if that helps.


I've been getting BSOD reboots and straight reboots on my sig OC as well. I *think* i've got it stable now, though. turns out it was all ram, and i'm pretty certain it has to do with the 3 phase power issue on the board that ravin was referring to earlier.

the only change i made to get stable (i think it's stable, still testing--I survived a good 3 hour session in Bioshock which i wasn't able to get through with my sig OC, as well a full SMP folding WU...i failed like 8 of these--more than a full week of useless folding--in a row on my sig OC before this change) was to set RAM clock and timings back to stock and reduce vdimm to 1.92. My RAM is 2.1V stock, but it seems to be stable at stock settings at 1.92V. One I verify for sure that this current OC is stable, I'll try to push up to 3.5GHz and then I'll try 1:1 FSB:RAM. After that I'll try tightening timings again.

Anyway, my best guess at the moment is that the stability I have now, which I didn't before, is due to reducing vdimm. I could be wrong, but that's where my money is at the moment. Basically, from a variety of tests there was never any indication that the RAM clock and timings in my sig was any different stability-wise from stock, whereas lower vdimm definately helped me achieve better results when i was FSB OCing with a 6x CPU multi.

So...from what you're saying (given that you seem to be reporting the same issue I was having), I'd recommend trying to reduce vdimm as much as possible. the issue is probably in the availability of sufficient current somewhere on your board, and reducing vdimm should make the current supply slightly more reliable across the board.

note that Pook reported like two hundred pages ago or so (shortly before I took my ~100 page hiatus from this thread) that reducing vdimm greatly improved the overclockability of his cpu...i now have my own independant verification of that result.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


Would be nice if can hit 4Ghz


You will not achieve that on a q6600 on this board, guarenteed. there's a thread in the intel cpu section from someone who got 3.8GHz with a q6600, but it DEFINATELY wasn't on this board, and that's a pretty intense achievement. if you're really set on 4GHz you should be looking at a C2D chip with a big big multi on it.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
That sucks to hear Asce, I keep meaning to do a pencil mod but its hard in a dorm room with a roommate that sits there and annoyingly never shuts up about questions about what your doing lol... maybe over Christmas break. Sure it might not be a ram problem? I've never had a BSOD yet from othos, just either it shutdown or orthos just says a rounding error.

I run a blend of CPU and RAM, and its fine at stock settings as well.
 








Trib, i was running my RAM as close to manufactures recommended settings for the whole time ive been running this rig.


----------



## Dostoyevsky77

Hey, guys. Check this out. I pulled my wife's E6750 last week & put it back on her P5N-E, and ran it at a healthy 3.6. I started vCore at 1.5v because that's what it needed on my board, but her case has poor cooling, so the temperatures were around 60. I started to back down on the power, and kept being stable... kept backing down. Now, I'm at 1.4v AT THE SAME SPEED as on my P5N32-E & she's still stable! I don't know how much more I can back-down, but that's a whole .1v on the same processor!


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I've been getting BSOD reboots and straight reboots on my sig OC as well. I *think* i've got it stable now, though. turns out it was all ram, and i'm pretty certain it has to do with the 3 phase power issue on the board that ravin was referring to earlier.

the only change i made to get stable (i think it's stable, still testing--I survived a good 3 hour session in Bioshock which i wasn't able to get through with my sig OC, as well a full SMP folding WU...i failed like 8 of these--more than a full week of useless folding--in a row on my sig OC before this change) was to set RAM clock and timings back to stock and reduce vdimm to 1.92. My RAM is 2.1V stock, but it seems to be stable at stock settings at 1.92V. One I verify for sure that this current OC is stable, I'll try to push up to 3.5GHz and then I'll try 1:1 FSB:RAM. After that I'll try tightening timings again.

Anyway, my best guess at the moment is that the stability I have now, which I didn't before, is due to reducing vdimm. I could be wrong, but that's where my money is at the moment. Basically, from a variety of tests there was never any indication that the RAM clock and timings in my sig was any different stability-wise from stock, whereas lower vdimm definately helped me achieve better results when i was FSB OCing with a 6x CPU multi.

So...from what you're saying (given that you seem to be reporting the same issue I was having), I'd recommend trying to reduce vdimm as much as possible. the issue is probably in the availability of sufficient current somewhere on your board, and reducing vdimm should make the current supply slightly more reliable across the board.

note that Pook reported like two hundred pages ago or so (shortly before I took my ~100 page hiatus from this thread) that reducing vdimm greatly improved the overclockability of his cpu...i now have my own independant verification of that result.

You will not achieve that on a q6600 on this board, guarenteed. there's a thread in the intel cpu section from someone who got 3.8GHz with a q6600, but it DEFINATELY wasn't on this board, and that's a pretty intense achievement. if you're really set on 4GHz you should be looking at a C2D chip with a big big multi on it.

looks like 4Ghz on Q6600 is a dream


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I run a blend of CPU and RAM, and its fine at stock settings as well.









Trib, i was running my RAM as close to manufactures recommended settings for the whole time ive been running this rig.

Try lowering your vdimm, it may get you stable. Lowering vdimm should make more current available, which may stabilize your OC.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I've been getting BSOD reboots and straight reboots on my sig OC as well. I *think* i've got it stable now, though. turns out it was all ram, and i'm pretty certain it has to do with the 3 phase power issue on the board that ravin was referring to earlier.

Anyway, my best guess at the moment is that the stability I have now, which I didn't before, is due to reducing vdimm. I could be wrong, but that's where my money is at the moment. Basically, from a variety of tests there was never any indication that the RAM clock and timings in my sig was any different stability-wise from stock, whereas lower vdimm definately helped me achieve better results when i was FSB OCing with a 6x CPU multi.


From what I can tell from the trusty ol volt meter- when you start jacking up the voltage around the Vdimm, the voltage at the NB starts to drop. (measured observation)

Nearest I can tell one phase is dedicated to the NB/Vdimm and the other 2 phases are dedicated to the CPU. (speculation)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


looks like 4Ghz on Q6600 is a dream


Doable, just not on the P5N-eSLI


----------



## TriBeCa

one of the phases has to power fans and pci slots too









have you got a multimeter? can you measure the change in current when you increase vdimm? my BSOD reboots looked for all the world like a RAM issue, and the only explanation I can come up with for why reducing vdimm fixed it is that there's a more stable current supply at a lower vdimm....


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FR4GM4ST3R* 
3825MHz stable (425*9) for over 20 minutes so far thanks to this guide! I do have a few questions however if anyone would be so kind as to take a minute to help me out...

First of all, at 3825MHz i am running between 1,424 to 1,440v - am i aproximately where i want to be at? I believe i set the BIOS setting to 1,425v and enabled +100mv, which brings me to my other question:
What exactly does the +100mv feature do? I have read the guide but cant seem to find a clear and distinct answer as to exactly what this feature does - all i know is i can overclock far better with it enabled. Is my mobo secretly running higher voltage through the processor without my knowledge? Again someone might laugh at this question but im new so any help is appreciated!

The +100mV setting does indeed add .1mV to the BIOS vcore setting. So at 1.425 +100mV you're actually at 1.525. I recommend using +100mV because it uses seperate mosfets from the rest of the vcore mosfets, which reduces strain/heat on the vcore mosfets resulting in less vdroop.

1.525 is above what intel recommends for C2D and quad core chips, but as long as your temps aren't above 60C you should be fine (note that I'm at 1.568 on my OC







but temps never exceed 50C)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dostoyevsky77* 
Hey, guys. Check this out. I pulled my wife's E6750 last week & put it back on her P5N-E, and ran it at a healthy 3.6. I started vCore at 1.5v because that's what it needed on my board, but her case has poor cooling, so the temperatures were around 60. I started to back down on the power, and kept being stable... kept backing down. Now, I'm at 1.4v AT THE SAME SPEED as on my P5N32-E & she's still stable! I don't know how much more I can back-down, but that's a whole .1v on the same processor!

nice! i recently fought off some stability issues with my sig OC (by reducing vdimm...i should update my system specs), so I'm gonna try to back off the vcore as well. Ravin is running a q6600 at 3.2GHz and 1.25vcore on this board







He's got a 25% OC with an 8% undervolt!


----------



## Asce

Everything back to stock including voltages, it runs fine. I may start overclocking again tonight and see if i come across the problem again.


----------



## brandon6199

this is pretty strange, before I couldnt even POST on anything above 470 fsb, and today i just posted AND booted into windows and ran superpi on STOCK voltage, 1.25v.

but i cant get it stable, anything below 1.30v and orthos fails, and anything above 1.30v and my pc just locks up... i even tried 1.55v, and it still wasnt stable in orthos, my computer just freezes all together...










any ideas? D:


----------



## jesusiscool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
looks like 4Ghz on Q6600 is a dream

Hey man, im going to get a new cooler for my E6850 soon, and try hit 4ghz. ill let u know how high i get


----------



## Praeses

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


this is pretty strange, before I couldnt even POST on anything above 470 fsb, and today i just posted AND booted into windows and ran superpi on STOCK voltage, 1.25v.

but i cant get it stable, anything below 1.30v and orthos fails, and anything above 1.30v and my pc just locks up... i even tried 1.55v, and it still wasnt stable in orthos, my computer just freezes all together...

any ideas? D:


I don't know if it'll help at all, but have you tried a newer/older bios version? Couldn't hurt to upgrade/downgrade just to see whether it helps or not. Just remember to not use a bios that doesn't support your CPU







(so either 0608 or 0703)


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


I don't know if it'll help at all, but have you tried a newer/older bios version? Couldn't hurt to upgrade/downgrade just to see whether it helps or not. Just remember to not use a bios that doesn't support your CPU







(so either 0608 or 0703)


Looks like he's running 0608. 0703 is a possibility, but IMO not necessary unless he's going 45nm. 0703 was a SOB for me to OC- I couldn't break 2.6GHz with it.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
this is pretty strange, before I couldnt even POST on anything above 470 fsb, and today i just posted AND booted into windows and ran superpi on STOCK voltage, 1.25v.

but i cant get it stable, anything below 1.30v and orthos fails, and anything above 1.30v and my pc just locks up... i even tried 1.55v, and it still wasnt stable in orthos, my computer just freezes all together...

any ideas? D:

what's your vNB at? my guess is that it needs a boost to keep the PC from locking up.


----------



## anjo

Thanks everybody for your answers, I appreciate.

I will do some more tests and post here, but, right now, IÂ´m happy for the stable stock speed (3 Ghz) and impressive fast windows vista x86, just build. I used to use Windows XP on AMD 64 4600+ 2,4ghz 939 (overclocked to 2,78 Ghz), and just now installed vista on my new machine.

First I tried Windows Vista x64, but something went wrong, I installed 3 times, and very soon it failed, I thing the problem was the Nvidia Display Drivers, because every time I installed the driver, next time vista boot, it stop working and the screen became full of pointed colors.

Well, Windows Vista X86 is just great, ItÂ´s working perfect for about 6 days now.

Now the observations:

First, about the temps: I lowered the vcore to 1,28v and now the temps for cpu = 44Âºc and mb=50Âºc, but what is interesting is that the core temps when playing a game doesnÂ´t go high than 41Âºc (on both cores measures by speedfan 4.33 and everest 4.00). I heard that this temps is the temps to watch out, can anyone confirm ? because if this is the ones to watch i have pleny of room to go high.

Second, IÂ´m using just one 8800 GTX on my rig, and it gets hot, as I told, 77ÂºC. IÂ´m using two 120mm fan (front and hear), one 80mm front and one 92mm side. But I kind of sealed the case with foam, I have some dust here, and I think if I took off the foam I can get better air going throw.

Third, one overclock I tried and didnÂ´t work, I just reset the system and could get to Bios, IÂ´ll be watching this and using the advice on the power cord and smash the reset.

Fourth: to try 3,7 Ghz, do I need to raise NB Volt?, IÂ´ll be using this:
- vcore 1,35v
- +100mv
- multiplier 9, FSB 1644
- nbcore 1,39v

I think the memory timing maybe will be holding me back with this config, maybe put the memory on 55512 2t, just in case, what do you think? Anyway, when unlinked, how many divider have this board ?

Thanks, IÂ´ll post soon the results.


----------



## itslogz

good **** there buddy


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
what's your vNB at? my guess is that it needs a boost to keep the PC from locking up.

It was at 1.393v.

And I have tried 0703, and it wasnt good at all for me, 0608 is much better


----------



## FR4GM4ST3R

Reseated my NB heatsink today and naturally cracked the plastic pins. (If anyone after me attempts this, you should pretty much assume it is going to break and just dispose of it and get an aftermarket one!) After fashioning a replacement with a screw, a nut and some rubber (McGuyver style) my temperatures on the NB went down 4-5 degrees centigrade.







Good enough for me!

I also went ahead and added cooling for the MOSFETs. I had to skip the +100mv MOSFETs because there was simply no room with the Zalman VRAM heatsinks. Should i go back and attempt to rearrange them to cram one in for the +100mvs? Does the heatsinks contacting eachother affect anything? I took great care making sure they didnt, "just in case".

While doing this i decided to reseat the CPU fan "properly" this time, and ended up going from 32 or so degrees at idle, to 58! :swearing: Reseating time for me. I suppose the "grain of rice AS5 + shoving the HS onto it" just wont cut it for a C2D.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
It was at 1.393v.

And I have tried 0703, and it wasnt good at all for me, 0608 is much better









Try bumping the NB up to 1.5V. If that does not help, try reducing the DDR for the ram. Some straps just don't do well with odd ratios when the RAM is oc'd.


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, try 1.56. what kind of cooling do you have on it?


----------



## faheyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
haha. you could bench both systems with both chips at their max stable OCs, and decide which you want to keep









I got a 3 questions for ya, I'm using 0706 bios:

In the op, the only thing enabled in the CPU section is Execute Disable Bit ?

When people mention MB temperatures, are they really referring to (using Asus PC Probe) the MOSFET temps between the CPU and the Motherboard outputs ( http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...g-guide-3.html ) ?

And finally,

How would you know if your NB temps are too hot, as I can't find a 'sensor' for them anywhere? I used Artic on them, and the H/S doesn't feel warm at all (I've got 2 120mm fans on the CPU)?


----------



## Bonez

I've had problems going beyond 3.2.........this will make some of you cringe but I tend to increase by 200Mhz when pushing it and find voltages to keep it stable.

Currently: 3.2Ghz (multiplier is 8) at vCore 1.28v + 100mv offset
RAM at 800 (stock) at 2.08v
NB at 1.39 (stock heatsink on it......it gets warm!)
manual input for RAM timings.

I get the odd quarter second freeze when sprinting everrywhere in STALKER but no crashes.

Going up to 3.4 it remains fairly stable with vCore at 1.3v + offset, RAM at 850 at 2.1...v. NB at 1.39 still.

All fine till I play STALKER and go play with the snorks at Yantar........Crash.

I may be wrong and I may just be lucky with my board but I think some of you guys are running your NB way too high.

I'd say try them lower. I have an Akasa HSF for NB which I haven't fitted yet....I may still WC the NB, I'm in the process of ordering my Water cooling kit. When I do - whether I use water or the Akasa HSF, i'll push the NB up a notch or two and try for a stable 3.7Ghz.

Any suggestions for a good NB water block for the P5N-E SLI?? My CPU block will be either a DTEK Fuzion or Danger Den TDX. I'm open to criticism or other suggestions on those choices. It'll be 1/2 inch Tygon tubing, an Aqua Computer single 120mm radiator mounted internally with a Laing pump and Thermaltake fan I already have 2 of those fans and they kick. They look amazing, vid doesn't do them justice. Nice and quiet too.

Supposedly, the limit for the E6420 is 3.8Ghz and the limit for the vCore on my setup is supposed to be 1.42v.

I'm on my 4days off as of 0700hrs so I'll give it a go once I've had some sleep.

If i can get a stable boot at 3.4 and beyond, I'll post settings.


----------



## TriBeCa

nice vcore on that OC. guess it helps having a 6420 over my 6400









can't really comment on your WC setup, as I have *no* experience with water, and i haven't seen anyone post about WC setups in this thread. if you don't get the answers you're looking for here, do try the intel water cooling forum, and maybe even the intel CPU forum.

you crash in stalker (i don't know the game at all)...is that a reboot, system hang (freeze), or does just the game crash? based on my and others experiences with the board, if it's a system hang i'd bet a LOT of money you'd be fine with NB at 1.56 (though you might see other issues, higher vNB will take care of the hang).

i'd agree with you that I'm running my NB too high if it weren't for the fact that I can't even post below 1.56...and that 99% of the time when I'm OCing and my system hangs I can deal with it by increasing NB voltage.

and my e6400 will boot into windows and all at 1.4vcore, like your e6420, but a few seconds of SMP folding will reboot my system. my sig OC is stable for several days of continuous folding at a time, but will eventually hit an error. i've tried lower and higher vcore, lower and higher vdimm, and nothing _quite_ works (including all of that at stock RAM timings). With stock RAM timings and 1:1 clock at 1650 FSB I'm stable with CPU multi at x7 and not x8, so I'm convinced it's an issue with vcore (or a wall on my chip, which I think is highly unlikely). I'm currently testing 3.3GHz at 1.525vcore, which so far is more stable than anything I've tried since my sig OC proved unstable after a few days (and then proved unstable again with 1.92vdimm and 4-4-4-12-23-2T timings).

It's scary to me that 1.568vcore might not be quite enough for stability at 3.4GHz, but that's what all the evidence is pointing to....

Of course, what I'm starting to thinkg is the _most_ likely case is that I'm pushing my POS PSU harder than it can manage (especially with all the fans I have going). Unfortunately I'm just not really prepared to sink any more money into my rig at the moment, since I just dropped nearly $700 on another hobby (tropical fish







)


----------



## TriBeCa

I've just updated the first few lines of the guide to reflect this, but I really think most of these posts would do better in the P5N-E thread stickied at the top of this forum. Even though I wrote this guide, I'm not the only person who can give useful advice about this board, and the rest of them don't really keep up on this thread









Quote:


Originally Posted by *anjo* 
Thanks everybody for your answers, I appreciate.

I will do some more tests and post here, but, right now, IÂ´m happy for the stable stock speed (3 Ghz) and impressive fast windows vista x86, just build. I used to use Windows XP on AMD 64 4600+ 2,4ghz 939 (overclocked to 2,78 Ghz), and just now installed vista on my new machine.

First I tried Windows Vista x64, but something went wrong, I installed 3 times, and very soon it failed, I thing the problem was the Nvidia Display Drivers, because every time I installed the driver, next time vista boot, it stop working and the screen became full of pointed colors.

Well, Windows Vista X86 is just great, ItÂ´s working perfect for about 6 days now.

Now the observations:

First, about the temps: I lowered the vcore to 1,28v and now the temps for cpu = 44Âºc and mb=50Âºc, but what is interesting is that the core temps when playing a game doesnÂ´t go high than 41Âºc (on both cores measures by speedfan 4.33 and everest 4.00). I heard that this temps is the temps to watch out, can anyone confirm ? because if this is the ones to watch i have pleny of room to go high.

Second, IÂ´m using just one 8800 GTX on my rig, and it gets hot, as I told, 77ÂºC. IÂ´m using two 120mm fan (front and hear), one 80mm front and one 92mm side. But I kind of sealed the case with foam, I have some dust here, and I think if I took off the foam I can get better air going throw.

Third, one overclock I tried and didnÂ´t work, I just reset the system and could get to Bios, IÂ´ll be watching this and using the advice on the power cord and smash the reset.

Fourth: to try 3,7 Ghz, do I need to raise NB Volt?, IÂ´ll be using this:
- vcore 1,35v
- +100mv
- multiplier 9, FSB 1644
- nbcore 1,39v

I think the memory timing maybe will be holding me back with this config, maybe put the memory on 55512 2t, just in case, what do you think? Anyway, when unlinked, how many divider have this board ?

Thanks, IÂ´ll post soon the results.

Yes, you only need to pay attention to core temps, the "CPU" temp is just the temp of the integrated heat spreader on your chip, which is useless except that it's correlated with the core temps. but if you're looking at core temps, just ignore the cpu temp entirely.

how high you can go depends on your CPU. as you haven't edited your system details (please go to "User CP" at the top of the page and then "Edit System" on the left hand side and do this), I have no idea what CPU you have. but as long as you're below intel's thermal rating for your chip you're safe.

77C is not totally out of the ordinary for an 8800. GPU's run much, much, hotter than CPUs, and they're designed to do so. yours is definately running much hotter than mine, which is either a difference in the card itself (mine is a GTS), the stock cooling (mine is a XFX XXX Edition), or (most likely) case airflow. I have no idea what you mean by saying you sealed your case in foam, but it doesn't sound like a good idea.... don't block up your intake/exhaust fans!

mash, not smash! there's a difference







(I can tell this is just a language issue...but I meant you should press it over and over and over and over again, whereas "smash" implies you might hit it really hard, or with a hammer or something--don't do that!)

Finally, for 1644 FSB you may very well have to increase your NB voltage to 1.56 (I did). I can barely post over 1500, and I can't stay stable in windows with _any_ load over 1500, with less than that. I also wouldn't be _too_ suprised if you need more than 1.35+100mV, but that might be enough. Really just depends on the chip, and not the board.

As for the number of FSB:RAM dividers, on this board you don't have to set the divider manually. The board does it automatically based on the clock settings you specify. This is, in my opinion, one of the nicest features of the board. I'm not sure how high the mutliplies go, but they go as low as 15:16 or 16:15. Certainly 1:3 should be doable, but I've never gone this high or higher myself. I've personally seen 1:2, 2:3, 3:4, 4:5, 5:6, 15:16, 1:1, 16:15, and a few more (I think most of those same multis in the opposite direction, down to 3:2, but I can't honestly remember)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FR4GM4ST3R* 
Reseated my NB heatsink today and naturally cracked the plastic pins. (If anyone after me attempts this, you should pretty much assume it is going to break and just dispose of it and get an aftermarket one!) After fashioning a replacement with a screw, a nut and some rubber (McGuyver style) my temperatures on the NB went down 4-5 degrees centigrade.







Good enough for me!

I also went ahead and added cooling for the MOSFETs. I had to skip the +100mv MOSFETs because there was simply no room with the Zalman VRAM heatsinks. Should i go back and attempt to rearrange them to cram one in for the +100mvs? Does the heatsinks contacting eachother affect anything? I took great care making sure they didnt, "just in case".

While doing this i decided to reseat the CPU fan "properly" this time, and ended up going from 32 or so degrees at idle, to 58! :swearing: Reseating time for me. I suppose the "grain of rice AS5 + shoving the HS onto it" just wont cut it for a C2D.

Hahaha, I guess I should've said more about those pins. Someone in the other P5N-E thread recently asked about this, and I gave more detailed advice about removing them without destroying them...and apparently it worked. I've removed the stock NB on this board 4 times now I think (had to RMA two boards, and killed one with a bad BIOS flash, so I'm on my fourth now), and if you're careful you _can_ get it off without irreparably damaging the pins.







Basically you just need to make sure that your grab the ENTIRE pin (right up to the surface of the board) with your pliars, because if you apply pressure to part, but not all, of the pins you'll make it brutally hard to get off, and end up mangling up really badly to get the thing off.

glad you managed to a jury-rig a fix though









as for the mosfet sinks...it's definately true that not letting them touch would be preferable. however, I did, and I experienced a huge drop in temps across my whole system (like, 8-10C on core, MB, and even GPU temp sensors), so it can't be tooo bad. I don't know how you put yours on, but I used three of the taller ones (assuming you ordered the same zalman vram sinks that I did) on that main set of 4 mosfets plus the two +100mV mosfets. It was a tight fit, and I had to struggle a bit to get the last one in, but it did work. Given that you've installed these sinks yourself, I'm assumin it's obvious to you that I oriented them 'lengthwise' pointing away from the CPU (so their shorter side is point at the CPU on one end and the boards I/O ports on the other). This left me with two of the smaller sinks to put on those two 'stray' CPU mosfets (one sink each), and then one of the taller sinks to put on the two vdimm mosfets (I also put a smal sink on the mosfet that's right next to those two, though I have no idea what it's for because it's not marked in the image I posted, it's clearly a mosfet of some sort







). This left me with one unused small sink out of the set of 8.

Definately reseat your CPU!!! That's _awful_. With that kind of a temp jump it sounds like you didn't manage to mount your CPU correctly, or you didn't remove the TIM from the previous mount.... Is it possible one of the mounting screws (or pins) was loose? Anyway...don't use the grain of rice method with C2Ds--use the line method. You can find pretty explicit directions on the AS5 website, but basically you just put a thin (thin as possible) line of TIM on the chip itself, oriented so it passes over both cores (when your chip is installed, this line should cover a little over 50% of the length of the chip, in the middle of the chip, from the I/O port side to the DIMM slot side of the CPU). Then install your cooler, and once it's on rotate it about 15 degrees in either direction before centering it (my TRUE lets me do this after the mounting screws are fully tightened, but with most cooler you'll have to do this and then mount it after).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *faheyd* 
I got a 3 questions for ya, I'm using 0706 bios:

In the op, the only thing enabled in the CPU section is Execute Disable Bit ?

When people mention MB temperatures, are they really referring to (using Asus PC Probe) the MOSFET temps between the CPU and the Motherboard outputs ( http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...g-guide-3.html ) ?

And finally,

How would you know if your NB temps are too hot, as I can't find a 'sensor' for them anywhere? I used Artic on them, and the H/S doesn't feel warm at all (I've got 2 120mm fans on the CPU)?

First off, the 07XX bios's notoriously poor OCers. I haven't tried myself, but that's what *everyone* who's tried OCing on them has reported (that I'm aware of).

yes, enable execute disable bit and leave internal thermal control on auto (this is effectively 'enabled' as the only other setting is disabled...don't disable it). The other options you can enable if you want, but _after/I] you've achieved a stable OC. they're all quite likely to hold back your OC if you don't disable them.

People are referring to the MB temp sensor, if that's what you mean. There's a reasonable degree of confusion/controversy about where that damn sensor actually is. The two explanations I've heard (read up on the 400 page P5N-E thread for details, lol







) are that it's located near the DIMM slots, or is the average of the NB and SB temps. Various lines of evidence suggest that the former is not true (a fan pointing at the DIMM slots has no effect on it, whereas a new NB cooler does), so I've assumed that it's the latter. Though I must admit that the logic behind putting sensors on the NB and the SB and then having them read out only one temperature is completely lost on me, so I've always been a bit suspicious of this explanation.

Your post implies that you have information suggesting that the MB sensor is located near or on the MOSFETs.... If this is true I'd be extremely interested to see







You linked to the third page of this thread...but I don't see anything there that suggests that this sensor is at the mosfets.

So to answer your last questions, myself and others have assumed that the MB temp reflects the NB temp at least partially, and have used that as a guideline for determining what is too high on the NB, but myself and others have frequently used the "touch test" to determine how hot the thing is getting. The only problem, of course, is that poor contact between the NB HS or HSF and the NB itself will result in low "touch" temps, but very high NB temps. So if your NB HS is cool to the touch, you can be confident that your NB itself is cool enough provided that you're confident you have good thermal interface between the NB and its cooler. If not, then the "touch test" is meaningless._


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
nice vcore on that OC. guess it helps having a 6420 over my 6400









can't really comment on your WC setup, as I have *no* experience with water, and i haven't seen anyone post about WC setups in this thread. if you don't get the answers you're looking for here, do try the intel water cooling forum, and maybe even the intel CPU forum.

you crash in stalker (i don't know the game at all)...is that a reboot, system hang (freeze), or does just the game crash? based on my and others experiences with the board, if it's a system hang i'd bet a LOT of money you'd be fine with NB at 1.56 (though you might see other issues, higher vNB will take care of the hang).

i'd agree with you that I'm running my NB too high if it weren't for the fact that I can't even post below 1.56...and that 99% of the time when I'm OCing and my system hangs I can deal with it by increasing NB voltage.

and my e6400 will boot into windows and all at 1.4vcore, like your e6420, but a few seconds of SMP folding will reboot my system. my sig OC is stable for several days of continuous folding at a time, but will eventually hit an error. i've tried lower and higher vcore, lower and higher vdimm, and nothing _quite_ works (including all of that at stock RAM timings). With stock RAM timings and 1:1 clock at 1650 FSB I'm stable with CPU multi at x7 and not x8, so I'm convinced it's an issue with vcore (or a wall on my chip, which I think is highly unlikely). I'm currently testing 3.3GHz at 1.525vcore, which so far is more stable than anything I've tried since my sig OC proved unstable after a few days (and then proved unstable again with 1.92vdimm and 4-4-4-12-23-2T timings).

It's scary to me that 1.568vcore might not be quite enough for stability at 3.4GHz, but that's what all the evidence is pointing to....

Of course, what I'm starting to thinkg is the _most_ likely case is that I'm pushing my POS PSU harder than it can manage (especially with all the fans I have going). Unfortunately I'm just not really prepared to sink any more money into my rig at the moment, since I just dropped nearly $700 on another hobby (tropical fish







)

Just curious Tribeca, do you know what vcore you had 3.2 stable at? I got my 3.2 stable at 1.3V + 100mv but haven't tried much lower, I know 1.25 + 100mv isn't stable, I can boot 3.4 but I can't even get a minute stable in orthos, maybe if/when I pencil mod to fix my horrible vdroop (set at 1.45v and any programs show it drops down to 1.344 v under full load occasionally!)


----------



## faheyd

Hi All,

I've got some questions as I'm new to the Q6600 overclocking stuff (but got plenty of amd experience).

Here goes:
I'm using 0703 bios:

In the P5N-E o/c guide, I'd like to confirm that the only thing enabled in the bios CPU section is Execute Disable Bit ?

When people mention MB temperatures, are they really referring to (using Asus PC Probe) the MOSFET temps between the CPU and the Motherboard outputs ( http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...g-guide-3.html ) ?

And finally,

How would you know if your NB temps are too hot, as I can't find a 'sensor' for them anywhere? I used Artic on the NB, and the H/S doesn't feel warm at all (I've got 2 120mm fans on the CPU blowing down right on the cpu and NB)?

Thanks,
Dylan


----------



## Praeses

@faheyd: How much did your temps drop when replacing your stock fan with the CM GeminII? It's a cheap cooler but I haven't found any reviews recommending it since it only dropped temps by 5 or so C.

Use speedfan to monitor temps, btw. When you check your NB heatsink's temp, are you running orthos + some GPU stressing program? Mine gets really warm after applying AS5








There is a sensor somewhere but nobody knows where it's located...might be in both bridges...I'd love to find out


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Just curious Tribeca, do you know what vcore you had 3.2 stable at? I got my 3.2 stable at 1.3V + 100mv but haven't tried much lower, I know 1.25 + 100mv isn't stable, I can boot 3.4 but I can't even get a minute stable in orthos, maybe if/when I pencil mod to fix my horrible vdroop (set at 1.45v and any programs show it drops down to 1.344 v under full load occasionally!)

For some reason I have trouble at 3.2 (400 x8) on this board, although I ran that for several months on the board that got killed by a bad BIOS flash. To be honest I _don't_ remember what I ran that last board at, except that it was more than 1.4V and substantially less than 1.5V. Probably somewhere between 1.425 and 1.45. I do know that I ran it at 1.76vNB (stock cooler reseated with AS5...I suspect the high vNB may have been the reason why I became ultimately unstable at 3.2GHz and _maybe_ even why things went south when I flashed BIOS, even though I did the flash at stock settings), but I wouldn't do that again 24/7, nor would I recommend it.

and yeah...>0.1v of droop is crazy, especially on an e6400. Even as high as 1.568vcore I don't see more than 0.08vdroop.... You might consider cooling your mosfets before you pencil mod....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *faheyd* 
Hi All,

I've got some questions as I'm new to the Q6600 overclocking stuff (but got plenty of amd experience).

Here goes:
I'm using 0706 bios:

In the P5N-E o/c guide, I'd like to confirm that the only thing enabled in the bios CPU section is Execute Disable Bit ?

When people mention MB temperatures, are they really referring to (using Asus PC Probe) the MOSFET temps between the CPU and the Motherboard outputs ( http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...g-guide-3.html ) ?

And finally,

How would you know if your NB temps are too hot, as I can't find a 'sensor' for them anywhere? I used Artic on the NB, and the H/S doesn't feel warm at all (I've got 2 120mm fans on the CPU blowing down right on the cpu and NB)?

Thanks,
Dylan









I responded to these questions in the OCing guide (I saw them there first!), but as you'll be better off discussing this stuff here than there, I'll quote my reply:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
First off, the 07XX bios's are notoriously poor OCers. I haven't tried myself, but that's what *everyone* who's tried OCing on them has reported (that I'm aware of).

yes, enable execute disable bit and leave internal thermal control on auto (this is effectively 'enabled' as the only other setting is disabled...don't disable it). The other options you can enable if you want, but _after/I] you've achieved a stable OC. they're all quite likely to hold back your OC if you don't disable them.

People are referring to the MB temp sensor, if that's what you mean. There's a reasonable degree of confusion/controversy about where that damn sensor actually is. The two explanations I've heard (read up on the 400 page P5N-E thread for details, lol







) are that it's located near the DIMM slots, or is the average of the NB and SB temps. Various lines of evidence suggest that the former is not true (a fan pointing at the DIMM slots has no effect on it, whereas a new NB cooler does), so I've assumed that it's the latter. Though I must admit that the logic behind putting sensors on the NB and the SB and then having them read out only one temperature is completely lost on me, so I've always been a bit suspicious of this explanation.

Your post implies that you have information suggesting that the MB sensor is located near or on the MOSFETs.... If this is true I'd be extremely interested to see







You linked to the third page of this thread...but I don't see anything there that suggests that this sensor is at the mosfets.

So to answer your last questions, myself and others have assumed that the MB temp reflects the NB temp at least partially, and have used that as a guideline for determining what is too high on the NB, but myself and others have frequently used the "touch test" to determine how hot the thing is getting. The only problem, of course, is that poor contact between the NB HS or HSF and the NB itself will result in low "touch" temps, but very high NB temps. So if your NB HS is cool to the touch, you can be confident that your NB itself is cool enough provided that you're confident you have good thermal interface between the NB and its cooler. If not, then the "touch test" is meaningless.
_
_
_


----------



## faheyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 

First off, the 07XX bios's notoriously poor OCers. I haven't tried myself, but that's what *everyone* who's tried OCing on them has reported (that I'm aware of).

yes, enable execute disable bit and leave internal thermal control on auto (this is effectively 'enabled' as the only other setting is disabled...don't disable it). The other options you can enable if you want, but _after/I] you've achieved a stable OC. they're all quite likely to hold back your OC if you don't disable them.

People are referring to the MB temp sensor, if that's what you mean. There's a reasonable degree of confusion/controversy about where that damn sensor actually is. The two explanations I've heard (read up on the 400 page P5N-E thread for details, lol







) are that it's located near the DIMM slots, or is the average of the NB and SB temps. Various lines of evidence suggest that the former is not true (a fan pointing at the DIMM slots has no effect on it, whereas a new NB cooler does), so I've assumed that it's the latter. Though I must admit that the logic behind putting sensors on the NB and the SB and then having them read out only one temperature is completely lost on me, so I've always been a bit suspicious of this explanation.

Your post implies that you have information suggesting that the MB sensor is located near or on the MOSFETs.... If this is true I'd be extremely interested to see







You linked to the third page of this thread...but I don't see anything there that suggests that this sensor is at the mosfets.

So to answer your last questions, myself and others have assumed that the MB temp reflects the NB temp at least partially, and have used that as a guideline for determining what is too high on the NB, but myself and others have frequently used the "touch test" to determine how hot the thing is getting. The only problem, of course, is that poor contact between the NB HS or HSF and the NB itself will result in low "touch" temps, but very high NB temps. So if your NB HS is cool to the touch, you can be confident that your NB itself is cool enough provided that you're confident you have good thermal interface between the NB and its cooler. If not, then the "touch test" is meaningless.
_
_
_
_
Ok, thanks, as I just posted my questions on the other thread, feel free to copy and paste your reply there also.
So, when in the guide you say MB temps, it's our best collective guess that we are talking about the NB temps.

Note: I was just taking a guess that it was the mosfets, as they are really important to keep cool on other motherboards.

Thanks for the help!
Dylan_


----------



## faheyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
For some reason I have trouble at 3.2 (400 x8) on this board, although I ran that for several months on the board that got killed by a bad BIOS flash. To be honest I _don't_ remember what I ran that last board at, except that it was more than 1.4V and substantially less than 1.5V. Probably somewhere between 1.425 and 1.45. I do know that I ran it at 1.76vNB (stock cooler reseated with AS5...I suspect the high vNB may have been the reason why I became ultimately unstable at 3.2GHz and _maybe_ even why things went south when I flashed BIOS, even though I did the flash at stock settings), but I wouldn't do that again 24/7, nor would I recommend it.

and yeah...>0.1v of droop is crazy, especially on an e6400. Even as high as 1.568vcore I don't see more than 0.08vdroop.... You might consider cooling your mosfets before you pencil mod....

I responded to these questions in the OCing guide (I saw them there first!), but as you'll be better off discussing this stuff here than there, I'll quote my reply:

Note: I was just taking a guess that it was the mosfets were the MB asus probe temps, as they are really important to keep cool on other motherboards. I see now that we're pretty sure it's the NB or the NB-SB averages.

Understood. I guess I'll put a 50mm fan right on the NB and see what happens to the MB Temp reading in the ASUS Probe. I might throw one 50mm fan right on top of the mosfets just for good measure. I've already put a H/S on the southbridge. And yes, I'm having a tough time using the 0706, but things are better now that I've read the O/C guide and a hint about trying out low voltage on the vcore at 1.22v . Thank you all for this thread and the OC guide.

Dylan


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


Any suggestions for a good NB water block for the P5N-E SLI?? My CPU block will be either a DTEK Fuzion or Danger Den TDX. I'm open to criticism or other suggestions on those choices. It'll be 1/2 inch Tygon tubing, an Aqua Computer single 120mm radiator mounted internally with a Laing pump and Thermaltake fan I already have 2 of those fans and they kick. They look amazing, vid doesn't do them justice. Nice and quiet too.

Supposedly, the limit for the E6420 is 3.8Ghz and the limit for the vCore on my setup is supposed to be 1.42v.

I'm on my 4days off as of 0700hrs so I'll give it a go once I've had some sleep.

If i can get a stable boot at 3.4 and beyond, I'll post settings.


Go with the Swiftech MCW30 NB block and get the Dtek Fuzion with the nozzle pack. Heres a few sites that are much better than scan to buy WC parts from.
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk
http://www.watercoolingshop.com
http://www.tekheads.co.uk
http://www.specialtech.co.uk
http://www.thecoolingshop.com
http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk
http://www.coolercases.co.uk

I mainly use watercooling UK to get my parts from but i have used Specialtech to get rad, pump and fans from.


----------



## TriBeCa

and if you're going to point a fan at the mosfets, i'd highly recommend some heatsinks too







those blue zalman VRAM sinks work great http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118220


----------



## MuffDiver

im overclocking my e6600 using a P5N-E SLI and Corsair TWIN2048-6400C4D 800mhz
My core idle temps are 34c and load 52c
Here are my settings
Vcore-1.53
Ram-2.085
NB- 1.563
im using a 9 multiplier 1512/4x9=3.4ghz
im linked to sync and my timings are 4-4-4-12-2T ( the rest on auto) Ram @ 379mhz 1:1 ratio
i was 5 hours and 48 minutes stable till i got an error.
what else can i do to hit 9 hours stable.
i tried upping the vcore to 1.55 and the ram @ 2.17 but still an error.
any help would be great...
PM ME PLEASE


----------



## anjo

Thanks TriBeCa and others ,









every talk here is useful, and can help us improve our overclock system with P5N-E Sli, and know it better.

IÂ´m new and will be filling my system config later tonight, for now this is what I have:

-> P5N-E Sli Bios 0608 (Bios that came with the board)
-> Intel C2D E6850 (stock = 1333mhz x multi 9 = 3Ghz)
-> 2G 2x1 Ram Corsair 800 XMS2 DHX 4 4 4 12 2T
-> one 8800GTX XFX 600mhz 1900mhz
-> Raid 0 with 2 Samsung 250GB = 500GB 
-> Windows Vista Ultimate x86
-> Antec True Power 480w
-> Dell 24Â´LCD Rev. A2 (a must have one for everybody, everything is different after this)

First, the intake/exhaust is not blocked, just the side fan intake and the front fans intakes are behind a thin foam mattress (like the ones that protects some Video Cards, some motherboards and came inside the plastic with the cpu). I know that this is holding some air to go inside, but boy, it gets dirty over time.

Well, yesterday I tried and successufuly got my first stable overclock, played HL2 for about 2 hours with no problem. I have to say, It was kind of easy because it was just a 20% overclock, letÂ´s go to numbers:

- Vcore 1,3000
- +100mv
- NB 1,56v (this is what I raise to stable the overclock, 1,39 to 1,56, because of the FSB)
- vram 2,08v
- FSB 1800
- Multi 8x (I lowered the multi and increased the FSB because of the hole at 1600, since 1800 puts memory exactly at 800)

The result = 3,6 Ghz

I tried 4Ghz (FSB 1777, Multi 9), but the Windows doesnÂ´t start. I think IÂ´ll have to raise the NB voltage to maximum, I donÂ´t remenber now but I think it is 1,7v, or/and raise the vcore too, IÂ´m not confortable yet to raise the cpu voltage from intel maximum of 1,4v.

IÂ´ll try some more things tonight.

What do you think TriBeCa, can I put my C2D on 1,45v ? 
On 1,3v, +100mv, the 3,6Ghz overclock put the core temps to a maximum of 45Âº C, I think I have some room here, donÂ´t you think ?

And finally, the vdrop, with 1,3v and +100mv, the 3,6 Ghz overclock, CPU-z shows cpu voltages oscillating from 3,3v to 3,9v (measured with speedfan too), What do you think TriBeCa about doing the mod to stop the oscilation, or this oscillating is normal and good for the CPU ?

Thanks


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


and if you're going to point a fan at the mosfets, i'd highly recommend some heatsinks too







those blue zalman VRAM sinks work great http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118220


Couple more to look at....
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/enbmfocobgar.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcbgamera.html


----------



## Asce

Woot got my internet back (stupid Talktalk call centers blaming belkin for the problem.







)

I am now back at 3.0ghz and stable to play MOH:A, and i still have no clue of what the problem is. But an a big plus side, all i need to do is get some fittings etc for my WC gear and im away with that


----------



## Jeff-ITS

Greetings and salutations saviors, sirs and madams!

For system building of this level, I am a noob. I have built lots of systems with the P4 architecture and before, but I've never built a system with the Core 2 Duo or RAM that required massaging. So bear with me, and thanks for the hopefully forthcoming assistance.

Over a month ago, I started building a system.









Here's what I've got in there:

COOLER MASTER Stacker 830 Evolution RC-830-KKR3-GP Black Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case Real Power Pro 1000W Power Supply

ASUS P5N-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI

Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 Conroe 3.0GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6850

(4 sticks total) OCZ Reaper HPC Edition 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model OCZ2RPR8002GK

(2) Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - using onboard RAID to stripe em.

MSI NX8800Ultra - GeForce 8800Ultra 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card

Before doing the proper research (shame on me, I know) I initially ordered the system with this RAM:

G.SKILL 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ

This didn't work at all, the system was locking up like crazy.

So, I returned the G.Skill and ordered the OCZ Reaper after doing a little research (shame on me, I know).

If I install 1 pair of the OCZ Reaper with default settings, the system runs smoothly, but CPUZ tells me the RAM is running at 400MHz, not the 800MHz supported by the RAM.

If I install 2 pair of the OCZ Reaper with the default settings, the system won't post half the time, and the other half it will lock up in fairly short order.

Thinking it might be the motherboard, I RMA'd it and replaced it. No luck.

I've eliminated heat as the issue (the case is loaded with fans and in bios everything is nice and cool).

I went to the OCZ support site and tried a solution posted there:

http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...t=P5N-E+Reaper

And after trying the settings there, the system ran with 4 sticks for around 2 hours running the World In Conflict demo but then locked up. I couldn't get the system to boot again until I reset all of the RAM settings to auto. Once I did this, and removed the 2nd pair of RAM modules, the system booted fine and I am currently running the WiC demo again to test.

As you might imagine, this machine is driving me completely insane. I am considering returning this OCZ Reaper RAM and ordering something else. I am currently considering buying:

(4 sticks total) Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT12864AA804

Before I made this purchase, I wanted to check with you guys and see:

-If anyone has a workable solution for this OCZ Reaper RAM (which I'd rather keep because it's sexy).

-If the OCZ Reaper has proven to be incompatible, if the Crucial Ballistix pairs I've shown above have been proven compatible, and if so if they'll require any tweaking of the BIOS.

Thanks so much in advance, and forgive the lengthy post. Please let me know if you need any additional information. I'll be checking the board frequently for your drops of wisdom.

Jeff~


----------



## Ravin

Ok, I'll break it down....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS* 
If I install 1 pair of the OCZ Reaper with default settings, the system runs smoothly, but CPUZ tells me the RAM is running at 400MHz, not the 800MHz supported by the RAM.

CPU-Z shows the SDR, in your case 400MHz. Double that to get your effective DDR- 800MHz. This is OK.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS* 
If I install 2 pair of the OCZ Reaper with the default settings, the system won't post half the time, and the other half it will lock up in fairly short order.

Try setting the NB voltage to 1.56V, and if that does not help set your RAM voltage up one notch (2.17V if stock is 2.0V) Also manually set your RAM timings to stock spec.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS* 
And after trying the settings there, the system ran with 4 sticks for around 2 hours running the World In Conflict demo but then locked up. I couldn't get the system to boot again until I reset all of the RAM settings to auto. Once I did this, and removed the 2nd pair of RAM modules, the system booted fine and I am currently running the WiC demo again to test.

Sometimes running 4x sticks is hard on a mobo. Try each stick individually, then in pairs, then all four. Use Memtest 86 to make sure that your RAM is stable. You should complete at least 2 passes, probably 3. This should be an overnight run.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS* 
(4 sticks total) Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT12864AA804

Before I made this purchase, I wanted to check with you guys and see:

-If anyone has a workable solution for this OCZ Reaper RAM (which I'd rather keep because it's sexy).

-If the OCZ Reaper has proven to be incompatible, if the Crucial Ballistix pairs I've shown above have been proven compatible, and if so if they'll require any tweaking of the BIOS.


I have never personally used OCZ, but they have a good reputation. Check the ASUS website for compatibility.

Crucial Ballistix FTW- Crucial is always a great choice. I'd go for the PC2/8000 or PC2/8500 kits. 2 sticks is the reccomended for OCing- it's easier to get a better OC. 2x2Gb should be plenty- especially if your running XP or Vista 32 bit. 2x1Gb will offer tighter stock timings. 4x sticks will put a strain for voltage on your NB and RAM MOSFETS- a particular issue of conscern with the P5N-E SLI.

Edit: Check in the RAM folder for module chip specs. You want something with Micron D9MGH or D9MGK ICs.

Good luck hope I helped


----------



## TriBeCa

only thing i'd add to Ravin's suggestions is to check OCZ's site for compatability, instead of ASUS. first off, ASUS's website makes me insane, secondly ASUS can't be expected to know every RAM chip that's compatible with their board. the way the industry seems to manage this is that when a new board comes out the board manufacturer tests and identifies several chips as compatible and lists them on the QVL, and then the RAM manufacturers test all of their other chips with the board and identify them on their own website.

so the short version of this is go to OCZs site, use their memory configurator and see what comes up for the p5n-e sli. if your chips come up they're compatible, and if they don't then you have no guarentee they'll ever be stable. ditto on any particular crucial chip you might buy.

even if they don't show up in OCZ configurator, _definately_ make sure you try setting them manually to stock timings (and 2T command rate!) and try fiddling with the vdimm as ravin recommended before you give up on them.


----------



## TriBeCa

first off, I'd REALLY recommend we move this to the other thread. there's more people there that can help you. if you respond here again I'm just going to move my response to the other thread....

the thermal spec on your chip is 72C, so i'd say you have some room to move, yeah









playing a game for 2 hours is not a valid stability test...run orthos on small FFTs for 8 hours, then you can call it stable. orthos will also put your CPU temps higher than anything else, which will give you a better idea of what your max temps are.

as long as you don't exceed 70C after at least 10 minutes of orthos, I wouldn't worry about continuing to increase your vcore. in fact, I'd be more worried about 1.75vNB than I would be about about even 1.6 vcore, assuming temps are acceptable.

as for your vdroop, 0.07v is a normal amount of droop for this board. you can do the vdroop mod if you want, but if this a new board i'd give it a bit of time first. once you mod it you can't RMA it, so you wanna make sure it works before you do the mod. some cooling on the CPU mosfets might also help the droop a little. I only get about 0.05 droop in the vcore range you're talking about.

and no, vdroop isn't "good" for the cpu.... the ideal thing would be a constant voltage that is exactly enough for the chip to remain stable at whatever speed it is running at, but of course that's impossible. so what you have to do to get your OC stable is set it high enough so that the minimum vcore it droops to under load is still enough for the chip to remain stable (which means you're running more vcore than you have to the rest of the time, and hence more vdroop=bad).


----------



## Kerack

Hey I was snooping in the forums but I couldn't find this issue so I will re-post in this thread. If it's already been posted please direct me since I am Polish and a little slow =}

"I just bought a Q6600 G0 and I am running on a P5N-E sli board. Previously I was using a C2D 6600 and could OC no problem. I was using the built-in AI OC which was pretty simple and enough for my needs.

However, since I put in the Quad chip I cannot OC at all. The board doesn't POST unless I reset and "Continue". The settings are saved but the clock speeds do not change. Even in the BIOS it shows 2.4 even when I change the FSB or AI OC settings. I updated to several newer versions of the BIOS but no luck. Has anybody had these problems on this board or is my chip junk?

Note: I could underclock without any issues but not OC. I set the memory timings manually to 4-4-4-15 (OCZ PC6400) which is recommended by the mfg. I turned off everything I wasn't using to avoid conflicts as well. Any suggestions?"


----------



## Jeff-ITS

Thanks SO much for the thorough responses guys! I checked the OCZ RAM Configurator and sure enough, OCZ Reaper is not listed as compatible RAM for the P5N-E. I tried using the manufacturer timings and ran a test last night, and it locked up pretty quickly. So I'm going to RMA the Reapers today.

I'd really like to get 4GB of RAM into this puppy, and I want stability above all else. With all of your experience, what's a good, fast, tested solution for 4GB of stable RAM for the P5N-E? I really just want to be done with all of these problems and buy something that I can plug in and go. Is there such an animal for this mobo?

Thanks again for all the help and consideration!

Jeff~


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kerack* 
Hey I was snooping in the forums but I couldn't find this issue so I will re-post in this thread. If it's already been posted please direct me since I am Polish and a little slow =}

"I just bought a Q6600 G0 and I am running on a P5N-E sli board. Previously I was using a C2D 6600 and could OC no problem. I was using the built-in AI OC which was pretty simple and enough for my needs.

However, since I put in the Quad chip I cannot OC at all. The board doesn't POST unless I reset and "Continue". The settings are saved but the clock speeds do not change. Even in the BIOS it shows 2.4 even when I change the FSB or AI OC settings. I updated to several newer versions of the BIOS but no luck. Has anybody had these problems on this board or is my chip junk?

Note: I could underclock without any issues but not OC. I set the memory timings manually to 4-4-4-15 (OCZ PC6400) which is recommended by the mfg. I turned off everything I wasn't using to avoid conflicts as well. Any suggestions?"

OCing quads is tricky on this board, but should be doable. i wouldn't bother with the AI OC though.

make sure you set _all_ the voltages manually to stock, and i'd say 1.39 on the NB. then try increasing the FSB in small increments. start with 1100 or something. also make sure that speedstep and C1E are disabled.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS* 
Thanks SO much for the thorough responses guys! I checked the OCZ RAM Configurator and sure enough, OCZ Reaper is not listed as compatible RAM for the P5N-E. I tried using the manufacturer timings and ran a test last night, and it locked up pretty quickly. So I'm going to RMA the Reapers today.

I'd really like to get 4GB of RAM into this puppy, and I want stability above all else. With all of your experience, what's a good, fast, tested solution for 4GB of stable RAM for the P5N-E? I really just want to be done with all of these problems and buy something that I can plug in and go. Is there such an animal for this mobo?

Thanks again for all the help and consideration!

Jeff~

i've definately seen people on here get 4GB stable, though sometimes it does take a bit of struggling. i can't recall offhand what they were using, but if you search this thread (google search with "asus p5n-e sli 650i" in quotes, and then try a few RAM related search terms with it) I'm sure you can find out what they were using


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS* 
Thanks SO much for the thorough responses guys! I checked the OCZ RAM Configurator and sure enough, OCZ Reaper is not listed as compatible RAM for the P5N-E. I tried using the manufacturer timings and ran a test last night, and it locked up pretty quickly. So I'm going to RMA the Reapers today.

I'd really like to get 4GB of RAM into this puppy, and I want stability above all else. With all of your experience, what's a good, fast, tested solution for 4GB of stable RAM for the P5N-E? I really just want to be done with all of these problems and buy something that I can plug in and go. Is there such an animal for this mobo?

Thanks again for all the help and consideration!

Jeff~


If I *had* to get 4Gb, I'd go with 4x1GB of one of these in 1066MHz flava:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...1066+(PC2+8500)
Or these if you are die hard on the 800MHz flava:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...+800+(PC2+6400)

If you really want 2x2gb it will hamper finding higher speed modules- you may get stuck in the 533-667-800MHz range with crappy timings:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...me=4GB(2+x+2GB)

So any way you go 4Gb on this board will be a wash.
4x1Gb may limit OCability but will offer higher MHz and tighter timings.

2x2Gb will likely be easier to OC, but your lower MHz and looser timings will have lower bandwidth than you would see with 1Gb modules.


----------



## hometoast

(moved to other thread)


----------



## Ravin

I'm looking to upgrade my CPU HSF.....P5N-E SLI owners please check this thread with your suggestions/experiences with aftermarket CPU coolers and the massive NB HS.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-air-c...ml#post2895361


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


OCing quads is tricky on this board, but should be doable. i wouldn't bother with the AI OC though.

make sure you set _all_ the voltages manually to stock, and i'd say 1.39 on the NB. then try increasing the FSB in small increments. start with 1100 or something. also make sure that speedstep and C1E are disabled.


Great! By all voltages you mean RAM, CPU, NB correct? I am a newb especially at volt-changing =)

Thanks!


----------



## hometoast

When you say start with a good increase (like 1400 on a 1066 chip)... where should I start looking for the fsb hole with a 6750? Since stock it runs 333x8?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Great! By all voltages you mean RAM, CPU, NB correct? I am a newb especially at volt-changing =)

Thanks!


Yup- the voltages for the RAM/NB and CPU









Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


When you say start with a good increase (like 1400 on a 1066 chip)... where should I start looking for the fsb hole with a 6750? Since stock it runs 333x8?


The hole is somewhere between 375-425 FSB. Most folks have problems in the 400-425 range.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jeff-ITS*


Thanks SO much for the thorough responses guys! I checked the OCZ RAM Configurator and sure enough, OCZ Reaper is not listed as compatible RAM for the P5N-E. I tried using the manufacturer timings and ran a test last night, and it locked up pretty quickly. So I'm going to RMA the Reapers today.

I'd really like to get 4GB of RAM into this puppy, and I want stability above all else. With all of your experience, what's a good, fast, tested solution for 4GB of stable RAM for the P5N-E? I really just want to be done with all of these problems and buy something that I can plug in and go. Is there such an animal for this mobo?

Thanks again for all the help and consideration!

Jeff~


Hey,

I'm using 4x1gb mushkin DDR2-800 5-5-5-12

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146117

And it looks like the price just dropped again...it should only cost you $140 for 4gb. And it's got snazzy heatsinks.

These sticks aren't in the qvl, but they've worked for me so far.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Hey,

I'm using 4x1gb mushkin DDR2-800 5-5-5-12

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146117

And it looks like the price just dropped again...it should only cost you $140 for 4gb. And it's got snazzy heatsinks.

These sticks aren't in the qvl, but they've worked for me so far.


Mushkin are pretty good. Just watch- sometimes they sub ICs on their promo modules. If the IC's are not micron, they are not worth buying IMO.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Great! By all voltages you mean RAM, CPU, NB correct? I am a newb especially at volt-changing =)

Thanks!


yup! check the guide in my sig for details on OCing with this board....

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


When you say start with a good increase (like 1400 on a 1066 chip)... where should I start looking for the fsb hole with a 6750? Since stock it runs 333x8?


what ravin said, but i just wanted to point out for other readers that this doesn't apply to quads







you need to start much smaller. and even on a 1066 C2D I'd start at 1200 if I haven't OC'd the chip before.

and on the 1333 chips, i'd say start at 1400 (350) and go from there.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yup! check the guide in my sig for details on OCing with this board....


Ok, I set the stock voltages manually as well as the timings on the RAM and it still won't POST correctly. If I go back to defualt CMOS it will POST no problem. It seems if I make ANY changes to the CPU on the voltages or overclock it doesn't want to POST. Sound like a bad CPU or bad MB? My C2D would OC no problem.....

Little help would be very appreciated =)


----------



## TriBeCa

hmm, odd. what FSB settings are you trying? have you tried, like, 1070? does it really fail to post with ANY change at all? are all the cpu options disabled (except execute disable bit and internal thermal control)?

you could also try reducing the multi and changing the CPU, which tell you if the issue's with the CPU's clock speed or if it's the FSB change that's causing the problem.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
hmm, odd. what FSB settings are you trying? have you tried, like, 1070? does it really fail to post with ANY change at all? are all the cpu options disabled (except execute disable bit and internal thermal control)?

you could also try reducing the multi and changing the CPU, which tell you if the issue's with the CPU's clock speed or if it's the FSB change that's causing the problem.

I have tried many different FSB settings including just one over the stock. Won't POST at all which really got me thinking something is faulty. Any change will not POST except changing the multi which underclocks my speed. Once I go up on the FSB past the stock it doesn't POST.

The CPU is only 2 weeks old however the motherboard I know works on a C2D. Want me to try anything else?

Btw: I have everything off on the BIOS and even changing only the voltages, which is the first step I tried before touching the FSB or Multi, it still doesn't want to POST.


----------



## TriBeCa

what's that about voltages? it won't post if you push the voltages up?

if you turn down the multi, can you increase the FSB over stock? that was my question.

it does sound like something is really wrong. maybe ask over in the Intel CPU forum...maybe someone else has had this experience. you could return/RMA the chip, but of course you can't tell them you're returning it because it won't OC


----------



## Kerack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
what's that about voltages? it won't post if you push the voltages up?

if you turn down the multi, can you increase the FSB over stock? that was my question.

it does sound like something is really wrong. maybe ask over in the Intel CPU forum...maybe someone else has had this experience. you could return/RMA the chip, but of course you can't tell them you're returning it because it won't OC









If I change the voltage to anything other than auto it won't POST.

I turned the multi to 7, from 9, and it would be unclocked. Then I moved the FSB past the 2.4 mark and it won't post









Maybe the chip is bad then I just wanted to hear somebody else at least mention it haha. I will try the CPU forum before I send it back. I tried calling ASUS about the overclock, boy that was funny. Any other suggestions?


----------



## TriBeCa

holllld up.

if changing the voltage off of auto makes it not post, the issue is probably...voltage related!

what voltage does speedfan (or similar, RELIABLE software) report for your vcore at idle? it's possible the p5n-e is doing something funny.

have you set NB and RAM voltages manually? you *should* be able to set those to stock without interfering with the POST. get those set to something that works before you start fiddling with the CPU.

and when you turn down the CPU multi, do NOT then raise the FSB to get it to back to it's stock clock. 266*9 is NOT the same as 343*7! I meant try 270*7 or something, just to see if you could an FSB other than stock with a lower multi.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
holllld up.

if changing the voltage off of auto makes it not post, the issue is probably...voltage related!

what voltage does speedfan (or similar, RELIABLE software) report for your vcore at idle? it's possible the p5n-e is doing something funny.

have you set NB and RAM voltages manually? you *should* be able to set those to stock without interfering with the POST. get those set to something that works before you start fiddling with the CPU.

and when you turn down the CPU multi, do NOT then raise the FSB to get it to back to it's stock clock. 266*9 is NOT the same as 343*7! I meant try 270*7 or something, just to see if you could an FSB other than stock with a lower multi.

The stock VCore on speedfan shows 1.300V.

I can set the RAM no problem it seems, I didn't try the NB by itself only with the VCore at the same time. RAM seems to set fine along with timings.

I tried raising the FSB slowly when it was 266*7 to about 330 then when I passed up 343 it wouldn't POST.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kerack* 
The stock VCore on speedfan shows 1.300V.

I can set the RAM no problem it seems, I didn't try the NB by itself only with the VCore at the same time. RAM seems to set fine along with timings.

I tried raising the FSB slowly when it was 266*7 to about 330 then when I passed up 343 it wouldn't POST.

Sounds to me like the Quad/P5NE wall. OCing the Q6600 on this board is not easy- likely due to the VRM (3 phase on this board) not being able to supply enough power for a 65nm quad. It will pull power from the NB/Vdimm and give it to the CPU- making your RAM/FSB unstable.

I know it sounds crazy- but try a lower Vcore around 1.25-1.28, and also 1.15-1.18 with the +100mV on.

Personally, I was able to get to 350fsb stable enough to benchmark, and settled in at 333fsb for a 100% stable clock. I know that both the board and the CPU are capable of going much higher, I just don't think it will be hand in hand when they do.

I'm picking up a new CPU cooler- Just found out the Zalman9700 will fit my case nice and snug. This will allow me to access the Vdimm MOSFETS and add some cooling along with the Vcore MOSFETS (heat sinks in hand). Hopefully this will get me stable @350fsb, and perhaps benchable a little further on. If this helps I'm going in for the Vdroop mod on both the Vcore and Vdimm (maybe the NB if I can figure out which resistor). I'll keep you guys posted on whether or not it helps.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Sounds to me like the Quad/P5NE wall. OCing the Q6600 on this board is not easy- likely due to the VRM (3 phase on this board) not being able to supply enough power for a 65nm quad. It will pull power from the NB/Vdimm and give it to the CPU- making your RAM/FSB unstable.

I know it sounds crazy- but try a lower Vcore around 1.25-1.28, and also 1.15-1.18 with the +100mV on.

Personally, I was able to get to 350fsb stable enough to benchmark, and settled in at 333fsb for a 100% stable clock. I know that both the board and the CPU are capable of going much higher, I just don't think it will be hand in hand when they do.

I'm picking up a new CPU cooler- Just found out the Zalman9700 will fit my case nice and snug. This will allow me to access the Vdimm MOSFETS and add some cooling along with the Vcore MOSFETS (heat sinks in hand). Hopefully this will get me stable @350fsb, and perhaps benchable a little further on. If this helps I'm going in for the Vdroop mod on both the Vcore and Vdimm (maybe the NB if I can figure out which resistor). I'll keep you guys posted on whether or not it helps.









Might be a big hole in mine I tried quite a few different FSB's. I will lower the VCore from 1.3 to what you suggested maybe I will strike gold. I don't really want a huge OC I just want to bump to abotu 3 and I'm happy.

Yea I hate having to cut holes or buy new cases because H/s are the size of a buick. Stupid pictures make them look small =) Good luck!!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Might be a big hole in mine I tried quite a few different FSB's. I will lower the VCore from 1.3 to what you suggested maybe I will strike gold. I don't really want a huge OC I just want to bump to abotu 3 and I'm happy.

Yea I hate having to cut holes or buy new cases because H/s are the size of a buick. Stupid pictures make them look small =) Good luck!!


I'm pretty happy with 333*9= 3.0Ghz









lolz....if the 9700 is the size of a Buick, my case is a C130 cargo jet. It fits


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I'm pretty happy with 333*9= 3.0Ghz









lolz....if the 9700 is the size of a Buick, my case is a C130 cargo jet. It fits











Nice lol! I might be cutting or bending when my Ultra 120 comes in, I hear it's a shark. I measured with .25 inch left to spare =\\


----------



## TriBeCa

your TRUE should fit, mine did. i had less clearance in my case, and it fits quite nice on the p5n-e.

as for your failure to post, it's not a hole in the board...here's what i think is happening:

when you raise the FSB *at all* the auto setting on your vcore goes way up (this board auto-detects more vcore than is needed when OCing) and draws power away from either vdimm or vNB (i'm guessing NB, but it could be either). so as ravin said...try reducing vcore and getting into windows at stock. then try edging your FSB up.

when you tried setting vcore manually and failed, what did you set it to?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Nice lol! I might be cutting or bending when my Ultra 120 comes in, I hear it's a shark. I measured with .25 inch left to spare =


Thats about 4-6mm, the same headroom I have for the 9700. I could fit the Ultra 120, but I'd have to get rid of the air duct that runs over the CPU/RAM cause the 120 is square and the duct is curved. Personally, I got nothing aginst the 120- it's probably the better cooler- the 9700 just fits my situation better (and I like copper!).


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


your TRUE should fit, mine did. i had less clearance in my case, and it fits quite nice on the p5n-e.

as for your failure to post, it's not a hole in the board...here's what i think is happening:

when you raise the FSB *at all* the auto setting on your vcore goes way up (this board auto-detects more vcore than is needed when OCing) and draws power away from either vdimm or vNB (i'm guessing NB, but it could be either). so as ravin said...try reducing vcore and getting into windows at stock. then try edging your FSB up.

when you tried setting vcore manually and failed, what did you set it to?


That would make a lot of sense. I am still new at this but slowly getting the processing of motherboards.

Let's see, I changed it to 1.200 +100. The NB was changed as well but I did not try each individually.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Thats about 4-6mm, the same headroom I have for the 9700. I could fit the Ultra 120, but I'd have to get rid of the air duct that runs over the CPU/RAM cause the 120 is square and the duct is curved. Personally, I got nothing aginst the 120- it's probably the better cooler- the 9700 just fits my situation better (and I like copper!).


Yea the 120 is rather large but copper does look nicer. I have mostly steel looking parts so the 120 will look better. I wish chrome was an option that would be badass.


----------



## Praeses

For those interested, installing a Zalman ZM-NB32K on my south bridge (which was quite an effort with my big 8800GTS







) dropped the MB temp reading (or temp2 in speedfan) by 10C. The 8800GTS's fan is basically sucking up air from the SB and surrounding areas so the heatsink has ventilation.

PS: the 10C drop is when I run Ozone3D fur rendering benchmark + orthos mem+cpu test. Used to be 46 to 48 C, now it was 38C after SB heatsink installation. 
PPS: I used Antec Formula 5 compound btw, not the paste that came with the HS since I've heard it's not that good. 
PPPS: The above test was done at 362MHz aka 1450MHz FSB


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kerack* 
That would make a lot of sense. I am still new at this but slowly getting the processing of motherboards.

Let's see, I changed it to 1.200 +100. The NB was changed as well but I did not try each individually.

hm...so 1.2+100 didn't work? if ravin's suggestion of reducing vcore doesn't work, try 1.225+200 and 1.25+100. If *those* don't work, try 1.3 -> 1.35 with +100mV disabled. could be a problem with your +100mV mosfets or something.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
For those interested, installing a Zalman ZM-NB32K on my south bridge (which was quite an effort with my big 8800GTS







) dropped the MB temp reading (or temp2 in speedfan) by 10C. The 8800GTS's fan is basically sucking up air from the SB and surrounding areas so the heatsink has ventilation.

PS: the 10C drop is when I run Ozone3D fur rendering benchmark + orthos mem+cpu test. Used to be 46 to 48 C, now it was 38C after SB heatsink installation.
PPS: I used Antec Formula 5 compound btw, not the paste that came with the HS since I've heard it's not that good.
PPPS: The above test was done at 362MHz aka 1450MHz FSB

results like this are why i believe the MB sensor is an average of NB and SB temps. it still makes no sense to me why you'd put temp sensors on both chips and then only report one, but it's the best explanation for the cooling results i've seen on this board.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


hm...so 1.2+100 didn't work? if ravin's suggestion of reducing vcore doesn't work, try 1.225+200 and 1.25+100. If *those* don't work, try 1.3 -> 1.35 with +100mV disabled. could be a problem with your +100mV mosfets or something.


Hmm...*maybe* a PSU issue? He has listed a "850W" PSU, but if it was stripped from an old dell or came with a cheap case it may put out less power than a good 500W PSU.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Hmm...*maybe* a PSU issue? He has listed a "850W" PSU, but if it was stripped from an old dell or came with a cheap case it may put out less power than a good 500W PSU.










I tried my 850w and my 550w one as well, both had the same outcome


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Go with the Swiftech MCW30 NB block and get the Dtek Fuzion with the nozzle pack. Heres a few sites that are much better than scan to buy WC parts from.
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk
http://www.watercoolingshop.com
http://www.tekheads.co.uk
http://www.specialtech.co.uk
http://www.thecoolingshop.com
http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk
http://www.coolercases.co.uk

I mainly use watercooling UK to get my parts from but i have used Specialtech to get rad, pump and fans from.


Cheers man,

Scan are messing me around with an RMA'd evga 8800gts and it looks like they're off my upgrade consumption list. The fuzion has looked better for a long time. I bought the rad from scan already.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


Cheers man,

Scan are messing me around with an RMA'd evga 8800gts and it looks like they're off my upgrade consumption list. The fuzion has looked better for a long time. I bought the rad from scan already.


Are you trying to do the step up program? I bought my 360GTS rad from Specialtech as well as pump since it was the only place i could find them in stock. WCUK has the nozzles for the Fuzion as well.


----------



## TriBeCa

updated my sig with my current OC. those of you who have been keeping track know i was facing some stability issues.

i just finished my third consecutive folding WU without an error, so i'm confident this one is *truly* stable. either later tonight or over the weekend i'll start working on getting 3.4GHz stable again.

seems like it was a vcore issue all along. my concern, though, is that the amount of vcore i need at 3.4GHz may not leave the board capable of supplying the NB and RAM. if i seem to be running into insurmountable difficulties i'll try backing off the vdimm again (this RAM seems to like stock settings at 1.92V just fine, even though 2.1V is stock).


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


hm...so 1.2+100 didn't work? if ravin's suggestion of reducing vcore doesn't work, try 1.225+200 and 1.25+100. If *those* don't work, try 1.3 -> 1.35 with +100mV disabled. could be a problem with your +100mV mosfets or something.


Ok here is an update:

I set the CPU to 1.15 +100 and it booted to Windows. I upped the FSB 1 point and no POST. I took it down to stock it booted. I didn't try lower though.

I set the CPU to 1.35 no +100 and it booted to Windows. I lowered the FSB 1 point and frozen Bios. I retried but upped it 1 and it didn't POST.

Does something sound faulty here? I noticed the rev on the board is 1.01G, sounds pretty early so maybe it doesn't like quads?


----------



## hometoast

YAY!

I got all 4 sticks of ram installed.
1 pair Crucial Ballistix PC2-800. 2x1gb
1 pair Patriot 2x1gb

I had to run 5-4-4-8 2T and set the NB to 1.5 to post. Ran 2 hours orthos and so far so good.

my temps are 38 idle -- 52 load (orthos small ffts). Should I be lower than that while at stock speed?

I'd like to now try to push this core up a little to 2.8-3.2 range. I REALLY need to get a new HSF for the NB and a little hs for the southbridge (cuz why not)

What could I put on the NB that will also fit next to the Freezer7?


----------



## hometoast

meh - not so much. I started having random freezes. Back to the 2 stock of patriot.


----------



## dac2u

Hello all,

I'm trying to figure something and I wanted to see if you'd help. I have the P5N-E SLI board, but I'm having some serious trouble OC'ing. Here's my setup:

e2160 @1.8Ghz
2x512 Patriot Extreme Performance
COOLER MASTER eXtreme 500w
XFX 8800GTS XXX
Asus DVD ROM
Memorex CDRW
Western Digital Caviar 320GB SATA HDD

I can get to 1000 FSB and be completely stable, when I go over that, I start having trouble, but I know it's not the CPU that's limiting my OC. I've narrowed it down to either the board, the PSU or the RAM, but I can't decide which one is the problem.

When I go above 1000 FSB, the computer usually doesn't post, however, if I set my FSB to 1333 then save and exit, again it wont POST, but if I power off, then power on and go back into the BIOS, then save and exit, usually multiple times, it eventually POSTs and I can get into Windows. When I'm in Windows, it's completely stable until I restart again, then it's a crap shoot to see if it'll POST again, if it doesn't I have to do that power on/off trick until it works. When in Windows I've run Orthos for 3 hours with zero trouble at 1333 FSB. What I'm trying to figure out is: What's the problem component? I'm torn between the MB, my RAM and the PSU. The RAM is Patriot, I have the timings entered manually, and I've run memtest for 30 minutes with no errors, so I think it may be fine, but then again it's not listed in the QVL. The Power supply isn't the greatest, it was a $45 newegg special. And then again the mobo could be a lemon. So, any ideas? I'd rather not fork out $200 for a new set of ram AND a new PSU, then come to find out I need a new motherboard. Please help!

Also, I'm pretty sure I have adequate cooling, my CPU stayed at 48C after 3 hours of Orthos and my MB temp stays around 45C. SB has a heatsink on it and I have a huge fan pointed to the NB and RAM.

Lastly, should I just wait for the next BIOS update to see if that fixes any of these issues? I'm currently running 0608.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


Hello all,

I'm trying to figure something and I wanted to see if you'd help. I have the P5N-E SLI board, but I'm having some serious trouble OC'ing. Here's my setup:

e2160 @1.8Ghz
2x512 Patriot Extreme Performance
COOLER MASTER eXtreme 500w
XFX 8800GTS XXX
Asus DVD ROM
Memorex CDRW
Western Digital Caviar 320GB SATA HDD

I can get to 1000 FSB and be completely stable, when I go over that, I start having trouble, but I know it's not the CPU that's limiting my OC. I've narrowed it down to either the board, the PSU or the RAM, but I can't decide which one is the problem.

When I go above 1000 FSB, the computer usually doesn't post, however, if I set my FSB to 1333 then save and exit, again it wont POST, but if I power off, then power on and go back into the BIOS, then save and exit, usually multiple times, it eventually POSTs and I can get into Windows. When I'm in Windows, it's completely stable until I restart again, then it's a crap shoot to see if it'll POST again, if it doesn't I have to do that power on/off trick until it works. When in Windows I've run Orthos for 3 hours with zero trouble at 1333 FSB. What I'm trying to figure out is: What's the problem component? I'm torn between the MB, my RAM and the PSU. The RAM is Patriot, I have the timings entered manually, and I've run memtest for 30 minutes with no errors, so I think it may be fine, but then again it's not listed in the QVL. The Power supply isn't the greatest, it was a $45 newegg special. And then again the mobo could be a lemon. So, any ideas? I'd rather not fork out $200 for a new set of ram AND a new PSU, then come to find out I need a new motherboard. Please help!

Also, I'm pretty sure I have adequate cooling, my CPU stayed at 48C after 3 hours of Orthos and my MB temp stays around 45C. SB has a heatsink on it and I have a huge fan pointed to the NB and RAM.

Lastly, should I just wait for the next BIOS update to see if that fixes any of these issues? I'm currently running 0608.


*watch my RIG.. SMOOTH as SILK at 3.2Ghz (E2160 too)*


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


*watch my RIG.. SMOOTH as SILK at 3.2Ghz (E2160 too)*


That's the reason I'm asking for help, with an e2160 I should be seeing far better results than 2.25Ghz.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dac2u* 
<snip>

Are you sure that you're running your memory unlinked from your FSB?








Run memtest over-night, not just for 30mins.
Also try running one one memory stick in one of the black slots.
Try a friend's PSU, those extreme power PSUs aren't good.


----------



## faheyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


@faheyd: How much did your temps drop when replacing your stock fan with the CM GeminII? It's a cheap cooler but I haven't found any reviews recommending it since it only dropped temps by 5 or so C.

Use speedfan to monitor temps, btw. When you check your NB heatsink's temp, are you running orthos + some GPU stressing program? Mine gets really warm after applying AS5








There is a sensor somewhere but nobody knows where it's located...might be in both bridges...I'd love to find out










I'm only seeing about 5 degrees down myself. All the reviews were great, but I'm cursed, as when I get something, it never works as advertised.
I going to take it off and do the lapping thang, as per Tribeca's howto. That's a major op as I have to remove the M/B to get it off. I'm using MBM right now for the temps and voltage monitoring. (that's why I was asking about the NB temps as I can't get it to work in MBM and wanted to know what specific sensor the M/B is using to get that info). I'm stuck at 2.65MHz right now (14 hour prime stable). The reason I'm stuck is I need to put some 50mm fans on the NB and mosfet to keep things cool. I'll do that at the same time as the Gemini II cooler lapping project. I'm also going to lightly lap the top of the quad (of course I'll right down all the numbers/letters off the cpu first.) I don't care about the warranty as I'm not getting the performance I wanted out of it anyway. My after-market 120mm fans I bought are way nosier than the specs said they would be. The 120mm fans (stock) in the P-180 case are very quiet. I gotta say, 'quiet is a good thing'. I had water cooling on my amd 4800 o/c'd to 2801Mhz, and that was quiet. If things stay noisy, I'm gonna have to go to the water cooling option (which is so darn expensive). I've attached a pic of my MBM monitoring.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Are you trying to do the step up program? I bought my 360GTS rad from Specialtech as well as pump since it was the only place i could find them in stock. WCUK has the nozzles for the Fuzion as well.



No, the card is faulty it mis-renders when the card is properly fitted in the case, I'll post images tomorrow. Scan have said that they've found no faults but I don't believe a word of it. Not only that, they've not said they're going to send it back to me or what they're going to do. They're dragging it out and the 90 day step up window has now passed.

I've looked at specialtech and coolercases for a while. Both seem pretty good but it helps to have a legit testimonial on an impartial site. The shop page for water-cooling.co.uk doesn't have a valid certificate and windows warns not to enter any personal details.....now that really is a shame.

Specialtech's Tygon tubing is WAAAYYY overpriced though.

Scam.....sorry Scan don't even do 1/2 inch tubing as far as I can see. It was just for that rad that I had to go to them and some feser 1. I don't think they're up to date with customer WC requirements.


----------



## Asce

Demand a refund? Thats a shame as ive not had a problem with WCUK yet. Got to OCUK and buy the Maskterleer tubing as its 7/16 and itsnt much of a flow restriction to 1/2 tubing and its alot cheaper as well. Scan isnt great for WC by a long shot.


----------



## Kopi

OK I need to flash to 0608 and I can't seem to do it. EZ flash won't work and floppy drive says "downgradable bios not suitable for system".

Help me out.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


updated my sig with my current OC. those of you who have been keeping track know i was facing some stability issues.

i just finished my third consecutive folding WU without an error, so i'm confident this one is *truly* stable. either later tonight or over the weekend i'll start working on getting 3.4GHz stable again.

seems like it was a vcore issue all along. my concern, though, is that the amount of vcore i need at 3.4GHz may not leave the board capable of supplying the NB and RAM. if i seem to be running into insurmountable difficulties i'll try backing off the vdimm again (this RAM seems to like stock settings at 1.92V just fine, even though 2.1V is stock).


Hey man,
have you tried running at stock for a while? I do this if I crash it...just for a couple of hours. I only had to increase NB voltage to hit 3.0Ghz and now again.

3.4Ghz running stable so far.

FSB: 1700
Mem: 850 Linked - Sync mode

VCore :1.3125v
offset: +100mv
Mem: 2.178v
NB: 1.56v ......did it and it's not too hot; still with stock Heatsink.
LDT frequecy: 4x this has been the real key to reducing/stopping system hangs/stalls. Default is 5, changing to 4 works wonders.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


OK I need to flash to 0608 and I can't seem to do it. EZ flash won't work and floppy drive says "downgradable bios not suitable for system".

Help me out.


Did you change file name on disc?

Are you running at stok or still OCing? If not, do so and follow ASUS's guide. You may need to re-download BIOS file.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Demand a refund? That's a shame as ive not had a problem with WCUK yet. Got to OCUK and buy the Maskterleer tubing as its 7/16 and itsnt much of a flow restriction to 1/2 tubing and its alot cheaper as well. Scan isnt great for WC by a long shot.


That's out of stock along with most of their DD kit. I'll go with Tygon initially. I've used OCUK before though.

I've tried to be polite with Scan but I think their customer support is a joke. Today they just ignored me. It's disappointing because this is the first time I've had to return something and they're being totally unhelpful, probably lying and I suspect they have lost the card somewhere. There is no way you could think this card is ok unless you test it is a skeleton system with mobo flat or just not screwed in to the case.

I think you'll be seeing them on Watchdog shortly. I've kept record of all correspondance. I wouldn't recommend them to anybody now.

I'll check all your links tomorrow while I'm at work.....skiving. I'm probably going for a Swiftech pump and that swiftech NB block.

I'm going to push to 3.7Ghz if possible.


----------



## Kopi

I've tried to post this 10000 times OCN servers are too incredibly slow.

Of course I'm OC'ed..

Disc?

EZ flash is done through flash drive usually, and if not I should be able to get at it through the Floppy, which I could. It started intalling, and then when the bar gets to about 75% it gives the downgraded bios error.


----------



## Ravin

*Hey Kopi* Clear your CMOS before you use E-Z flash in BIOS. That'll get ya goin.


----------



## Kopi

Thought so.

So I just reset the CMOS now. Tried to go in to flash, have a picture of what I get.










A:
B:

Both are nothing...

C: Comes up with whats on the screen

No option to view the flash and yes, I have USB enabled in BIOS.


----------



## Kopi

OK, i just went and WinFlashed

It worked out ok, on 0608 now









Any known issues with this BIOS?


----------



## TriBeCa

wow! lots of activity in here









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Ok here is an update:

I set the CPU to 1.15 +100 and it booted to Windows. I upped the FSB 1 point and no POST. I took it down to stock it booted. I didn't try lower though.

I set the CPU to 1.35 no +100 and it booted to Windows. I lowered the FSB 1 point and frozen Bios. I retried but upped it 1 and it didn't POST.

Does something sound faulty here? I noticed the rev on the board is 1.01G, sounds pretty early so maybe it doesn't like quads?


hrrrm. wish i knew what to tell you, mate. something very weird definately going on. maybe try 1.56vNB.... if that doesn't work, and a larger range of vcores (trying using a few between 1.25 and 1.4) doesn't work, i don't know what to tell you.

you memory is unlinked, right? oh, and instead of changing the FSB by 1, try taking it up to 1075 or 1100.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


YAY!

I got all 4 sticks of ram installed.
1 pair Crucial Ballistix PC2-800. 2x1gb
1 pair Patriot 2x1gb

I had to run 5-4-4-8 2T and set the NB to 1.5 to post. Ran 2 hours orthos and so far so good.

my temps are 38 idle -- 52 load (orthos small ffts). Should I be lower than that while at stock speed?

I'd like to now try to push this core up a little to 2.8-3.2 range. I REALLY need to get a new HSF for the NB and a little hs for the southbridge (cuz why not)

What could I put on the NB that will also fit next to the Freezer7?


52 is kinda hot, yeah. what's the thermal rating on the e6750?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


meh - not so much. I started having random freezes. Back to the 2 stock of patriot.


what timings and vdimm were you at? you might just have to tweak the vdimm and timings to get them stable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


Hello all,

I'm trying to figure something and I wanted to see if you'd help. I have the P5N-E SLI board, but I'm having some serious trouble OC'ing. Here's my setup:

e2160 @1.8Ghz
2x512 Patriot Extreme Performance
COOLER MASTER eXtreme 500w
XFX 8800GTS XXX
Asus DVD ROM
Memorex CDRW
Western Digital Caviar 320GB SATA HDD

I can get to 1000 FSB and be completely stable, when I go over that, I start having trouble, but I know it's not the CPU that's limiting my OC. I've narrowed it down to either the board, the PSU or the RAM, but I can't decide which one is the problem.

When I go above 1000 FSB, the computer usually doesn't post, however, if I set my FSB to 1333 then save and exit, again it wont POST, but if I power off, then power on and go back into the BIOS, then save and exit, usually multiple times, it eventually POSTs and I can get into Windows. When I'm in Windows, it's completely stable until I restart again, then it's a crap shoot to see if it'll POST again, if it doesn't I have to do that power on/off trick until it works. When in Windows I've run Orthos for 3 hours with zero trouble at 1333 FSB. What I'm trying to figure out is: What's the problem component? I'm torn between the MB, my RAM and the PSU. The RAM is Patriot, I have the timings entered manually, and I've run memtest for 30 minutes with no errors, so I think it may be fine, but then again it's not listed in the QVL. The Power supply isn't the greatest, it was a $45 newegg special. And then again the mobo could be a lemon. So, any ideas? I'd rather not fork out $200 for a new set of ram AND a new PSU, then come to find out I need a new motherboard. Please help!

Also, I'm pretty sure I have adequate cooling, my CPU stayed at 48C after 3 hours of Orthos and my MB temp stays around 45C. SB has a heatsink on it and I have a huge fan pointed to the NB and RAM.

Lastly, should I just wait for the next BIOS update to see if that fixes any of these issues? I'm currently running 0608.


put your system specs in your sig, it makes it much easier for people to help you. go to 'user cp' at the top of the page, and then 'edit system' on the left.

as for your issues...are you checking with CPU-Z what your system's actually running at when it boots into windows? the board will usually set the bios back to stock settings after you fail to post, so you may be booting up at stock and that's why it's stable until you reboot.

as for getting it over 250 FSB, take a look at the OCing guide in my sig for a few suggestions.

oh yeah, and the 07xx BIOS's are notoriously bad OCers. I'd hold off on changing your BIOS.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


Hey man,
have you tried running at stock for a while? I do this if I crash it...just for a couple of hours. I only had to increase NB voltage to hit 3.0Ghz and now again.

3.4Ghz running stable so far.

FSB: 1700
Mem: 850 Linked - Sync mode

VCore :1.3125v
offset: +100mv
Mem: 2.178v
NB: 1.56v ......did it and it's not too hot; still with stock Heatsink.
LDT frequecy: 4x this has been the real key to reducing/stopping system hangs/stalls. Default is 5, changing to 4 works wonders.


i tested at stock when i first hit the stability issues. 3GHz is easy, but as soon as i start pushing past that i have to make large vcore increases for ever additional 50MHz it seems. i'm 84% of the way through my first WU at 3.4 GHz now, so I'm hopeful. if i hit an error i'll just tap the vcore and try again.

though i may also try that LDT trick, especially since i'd like to try to get stable at 3.5GHz, preferably with less than 1.6(!)vcore







i did have it at 3 for a while and it didn't seem to make any difference, but i suppose it's worth giving it a shot.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


OK, i just went and WinFlashed

It worked out ok, on 0608 now









Any known issues with this BIOS?


not that i know of....

i've been unable to get 1T stable even though i know the chips can handle it. i had it on a different board with 0202 BIOS, and can't get it on this board with 0608. so it's either the bios or the board itself, but i don't know which.


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


Are you sure that you're running your memory unlinked from your FSB?








Run memtest over-night, not just for 30mins. 
Also try running one one memory stick in one of the black slots.
Try a friend's PSU, those extreme power PSUs aren't good.


Yep, it's unlinked, I'll try leaving memtest on overnight. I've tried one stick and they're both in black, right now. I did try a ThermalTake 430w and ran into the exact same problems, but with more BSOD's, that PSU was old and a little low for my setup, so it wasn't exactly a legitimate test PSU. Sadly, I'm the only computer geek I know, all my friends come to me for computer advice and none of them have a PSU worth mentioning.

Not sure if it's important, but my vcore has to be set above 1.45v to get 1333 FSB, otherwise it'll crash when in Windows.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa:*
put your system specs in your sig, it makes it much easier for people to help you. go to 'user cp' at the top of the page, and then 'edit system' on the left.

as for your issues...are you checking with CPU-Z what your system's actually running at when it boots into windows? the board will usually set the bios back to stock settings after you fail to post, so you may be booting up at stock and that's why it's stable until you reboot.

as for getting it over 250 FSB, take a look at the OCing guide in my sig for a few suggestions.

oh yeah, and the 07xx BIOS's are notoriously bad OCers. I'd hold off on changing your BIOS.


Ok, my specs are up. Yes, CPU-Z shows that I'm running at 3.0GHz and my RAM has all the correct timings. I know what you're saying about the failed post, that's why I have to go back into the BIOS and hit save and exit, otherwise it boots up with the wrong ram timings and puts me at stock speeds. I'm familiar with your guide and I've read countless others. I've tried setting my FSB and and MEM to a 1:1 ratio (I've lowered my MEM to 750 and my FSB to 1300 so they're both at 325 MHz). I've tried reducing my LTD to 3x and even 1x, but to no avail. I've tried my NB at 1.393 and 1.5xx, I've tried VCore's past 1.5v.

When I said I should wait for the next BIOS update, I was referring the next stable update, 0703 is horrible. Asus is due for another update, they usually release one every 2-3 months.

At this point, I'm pretty confident that no amount of BIOS adjustments will stop the POSTing issue(or lack of), unless I go back down to 1000 FSB. But, for the sake of troubleshooting, I'll do what you say.


----------



## TriBeCa

ok. i wanted to make sure you weren't jumping from 1000 to 1333, as that would be challenging.

1025-1100 doesn't post at all?

what's your vdimm at?

the last thing i'd try is suicide runs at 1.75 NB, to see what you get. if you can post and do at least limited stability tests at 1.75 on the NB, you can work your way up and see what vcore you need at higher FSBs, and then hopefully stay stable if you pull the NB back to 1.56.

and yeah...a new BIOS might help. we'll have to wait and see. you shouldn't be hitting a wall that low, though, something must be wrong. what're your temps at?


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


ok. i wanted to make sure you weren't jumping from 1000 to 1333, as that would be challenging.

1025-1100 doesn't post at all?

what's your vdimm at?

the last thing i'd try is suicide runs at 1.75 NB, to see what you get. if you can post and do at least limited stability tests at 1.75 on the NB, you can work your way up and see what vcore you need at higher FSBs, and then hopefully stay stable if you pull the NB back to 1.56.

and yeah...a new BIOS might help. we'll have to wait and see. you shouldn't be hitting a wall that low, though, something must be wrong. what're your temps at?


I'm at 1066 FSB and it works, 1100 won't post. 1.75 NB wouldn't post either. I have my vdimm at 1.9x, I've had it on 2.179 and 2.253, I've also bumped my MEM up to 1000 before and it worked. Occasionally, I'd see a BSOD though, I don't think it was a memory issue(I think it was a bad XP install, I've since reinstalled). Right now, it's at 800.

Temps: MB is at 42-44C idle, I haven't seen it above 48C udner load and I have my vcore at 1.462. My CPU temp is at a cool 33C idle, it won't go above 48C no matter what software I use.

Here's a weird one, whenever I load up PC Probe, it kills my sound. It also shows the +3.3 line as 3.31-3.33v, +5.0 as 4.86v and +12.0 as 11.78-11.84v; are these allowed to be that far under their rating?

BTW, thanks for your help.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I've tried to post this 10000 times OCN servers are too incredibly slow.

Of course I'm OC'ed..

Disc?

EZ flash is done through flash drive usually, and if not I should be able to get at it through the Floppy, which I could. It started intalling, and then when the bar gets to about 75% it gives the downgraded bios error.

Yeah Disc.....as you mentioned a Floppy Drive, I figured you must be using it to do the BIOS. FDD stands for Floppy Disc Drive. They're called that because of the disc inside the plastic square thing. They were all the rage once - back in the days before CD ROM. If you have a floppy drive, that's probably the easiest way to do it.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
wow! lots of activity in here









i tested at stock when i first hit the stability issues. 3GHz is easy, but as soon as i start pushing past that i have to make large vcore increases for ever additional 50MHz it seems. i'm 84% of the way through my first WU at 3.4 GHz now, so I'm hopeful. if i hit an error i'll just tap the vcore and try again.

though i may also try that LDT trick, especially since i'd like to try to get stable at 3.5GHz, preferably with less than 1.6(!)vcore







i did have it at 3 for a while and it didn't seem to make any difference, but i suppose it's worth giving it a shot.


That was one of the reasons I chose to push 200Mhz at a time. I was always increasing voltages for tiny OC gains. The result is the same and quicker. I haven't blown anything yet so far.....touch wood.


----------



## r0b126

ok, I hate to ask a question that has probably been asked and answered in this thread before, but apparently my search criteria isn't worded properly and I can't seem to find the answer.

I use an Asus P5N-E 650i SLI mobo and when I enter the bios, I do not see a way to adjust the ram timings. Can someone give me a brief how-to or a link to the answer?

Thanks.

Ironically I googled this article which describes my problem exactly. This guy has the same mobo, model of memory, and symptoms I am having. Unfortunately I don't have the benefit of knowing how to get to the ram timings in the bios since the option just appears to be missing.

http://koitsu.wordpress.com/2007/09/...sus-p5n-e-sli/


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok, I hate to ask a question that has probably been asked and answered in this thread before, but apparently my search criteria isn't worded properly and I can't seem to find the answer.

I use an Asus P5N-E 650i SLI mobo and when I enter the bios, I do not see a way to adjust the ram timings. Can someone give me a brief how-to or a link to the answer?

Thanks.

Ironically I googled this article which describes my problem exactly. This guy has the same mobo, model of memory, and symptoms I am having. Unfortunately I don't have the benefit of knowing how to get to the ram timings in the bios since the option just appears to be missing.

http://koitsu.wordpress.com/2007/09/...sus-p5n-e-sli/


In the BIOS, go to Advanced, then go to Chipset, then Memory Timings Setting.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


I'm at 1066 FSB and it works, 1100 won't post. 1.75 NB wouldn't post either. I have my vdimm at 1.9x, I've had it on 2.179 and 2.253, I've also bumped my MEM up to 1000 before and it worked. Occasionally, I'd see a BSOD though, I don't think it was a memory issue(I think it was a bad XP install, I've since reinstalled). Right now, it's at 800.

Temps: MB is at 42-44C idle, I haven't seen it above 48C udner load and I have my vcore at 1.462. My CPU temp is at a cool 33C idle, it won't go above 48C no matter what software I use.

Here's a weird one, whenever I load up PC Probe, it kills my sound. It also shows the +3.3 line as 3.31-3.33v, +5.0 as 4.86v and +12.0 as 11.78-11.84v; are these allowed to be that far under their rating?

BTW, thanks for your help.


You're welcome









Not sure about the voltages...although a misbehaving PSU is a plausible explanation for the weird rebooting you're seeing. Someone else here should know, or you could ask in the power supply forum.

Oh yeah, and I'd recommend using speedfan or everest or core temp for monitoring temps and voltages. Which reminds me, when you say "CPU Temp" do you mean the one labelled CPU (as in Asus Probe), or core temps?

Possible PSU problems notwithstanding, the next thing I'd recommend is turning your CPU multi down by a bit. Start with a known good OC with everything the same except the lower multi, and then try to increase the FSB. If you get the same problems you'll know it's something to do with the FSB, and not the clock speed or a power issue.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok, I hate to ask a question that has probably been asked and answered in this thread before, but apparently my search criteria isn't worded properly and I can't seem to find the answer.

I use an Asus P5N-E 650i SLI mobo and when I enter the bios, I do not see a way to adjust the ram timings. Can someone give me a brief how-to or a link to the answer?

Thanks.

Ironically I googled this article which describes my problem exactly. This guy has the same mobo, model of memory, and symptoms I am having. Unfortunately I don't have the benefit of knowing how to get to the ram timings in the bios since the option just appears to be missing.

http://koitsu.wordpress.com/2007/09/...sus-p5n-e-sli/


Advanced->JumperFree Config->Chipset->Memory Timing Settings

Just worry about the upper 5 options, and make sure you set command rate to 2T. I didn't look at the article, but I'm assuming you're setting the timings to stock in order to deal with instability issues? I'd also recommend manually setting vdimm to manufacturers stock, as it's hard to say what the board will run it at (especially after you tighten the timings). You can find that in advanced->jumperfree->voltage control.

You can read the overclocking guide in my sig for a little more detail on some of the BIOS settings, just keep in mind that I recommend turning off everything that's not being used in order to minimize conflicts when OCing. If you're running at stock, you should keep c1e and speedstep on in the cpu settings.

Good luck!


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by TriBeCa
Oh yeah, and I'd recommend using speedfan or everest or core temp for monitoring temps and voltages. Which reminds me, when you say "CPU Temp" do you mean the one labelled CPU (as in Asus Probe), or core temps?

Possible PSU problems notwithstanding, the next thing I'd recommend is turning your CPU multi down by a bit. Start with a known good OC with everything the same except the lower multi, and then try to increase the FSB. If you get the same problems you'll know it's something to do with the FSB, and not the clock speed or a power issue.


K, I'm using speedfan, I kinda like it and my sound still works. By CPU temp, I meant the one labeled CPU in PC Probe, SpeedFan has both Intel cores at 27C, I'm at 800 FSB right now though.

I've tried dropping down to 7 and 8 as a multiplier and I get the same issues, I'm thinking I have a faulty board. FWIW, I've tried OCing my RAM by itself and it wouldn't post until I matched it with my FSB.

My computer isn't rebooting, I'm the one rebooting it. It's a weird trick I found that gets the computer to POST and take the BIOS settings. When I set my FSB to 1333, then save and exit the BIOS, the computer won't post. If I then power off and back on, go directly into the BIOS, hit save and exit, it'll usually POST with the correct FSB speed, giving me 3.0GHz.


----------



## TriBeCa

ok. that CPU temp is basically meaningless, by the way. it's the temperature of the IHS casing, which is only loosely related to the core temps. and it's the cores that'll be damaged by heat, not the heatspreader. 27C is a pretty sexy idle temp. what cpu cooler you have? you must have fairly low ambient temps.

anyway. do check what your cores are at under load. if the IHS is at 48 it could be fairly high, depending on the quality of your cooler.

dunno what else to tell you about getting a higher OC. it's probably either the board or the PSU...unless you just got a bad chip?


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


ok. that CPU temp is basically meaningless, by the way. it's the temperature of the IHS casing, which is only loosely related to the core temps. and it's the cores that'll be damaged by heat, not the heatspreader. 27C is a pretty sexy idle temp. what cpu cooler you have? you must have fairly low ambient temps.

anyway. do check what your cores are at under load. if the IHS is at 48 it could be fairly high, depending on the quality of your cooler.

dunno what else to tell you about getting a higher OC. it's probably either the board or the PSU...unless you just got a bad chip?


It's a stock cooler, the e2160 is a 1.8Ghz CPU that OC's to 3-3.2Ghz with stock cooling for $84, it's the whole reason I went with this setup, lol.

I'm not really trying to get a higher OC, I was just trying to figure out what component was causing all this POST trouble. I think it's narrowed down to either the PSU or the motherboard. Hrrm, I don't think they'd RMA a board because it doesn't overclock well.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


That's out of stock along with most of their DD kit. I'll go with Tygon initially. I've used OCUK before though.

I've tried to be polite with Scan but I think their customer support is a joke. Today they just ignored me. It's disappointing because this is the first time I've had to return something and they're being totally unhelpful, probably lying and I suspect they have lost the card somewhere. There is no way you could think this card is ok unless you test it is a skeleton system with mobo flat or just not screwed in to the case.

I think you'll be seeing them on Watchdog shortly. I've kept record of all correspondance. I wouldn't recommend them to anybody now.

I'll check all your links tomorrow while I'm at work.....skiving. I'm probably going for a Swiftech pump and that swiftech NB block.

I'm going to push to 3.7Ghz if possible.


I would keep pushing them for a refund and tell them that your close to sending a letter to the Trading Standards. Give me a few weeks and i will be able to say if the MCW30 fits on the board or not. If you cant get the MCP655 go for a Liang D5 as its the same but make sure you get the variable version.


----------



## r0b126

found the ram timings, thanks for that.

sorry for the novel here, just have other questions

I do have a few questions about it though since this would be the first time I've ever had to manually adjust them. Right now, everything is set to auto and the current timings are 5-5-5-31. Which I suppose is ok for the memory that I have on board atm.

1 of my dimms is a PC 6400 DDR-2 800MHz Patriot dimm CL 5-5-5-12
the other is the same only G.Skill 5-5-5-15

A week or so ago I had ordered some memory from newegg (they had a special; $58 after MIR for 2x 1GB Corsair PC6400 DDR-2 800MHz 4-4-4-12 dimms)

When I received it, I removed both the dimms from my PC and put the corsair ones in. The PC booted up and still said 5-5-5-31 during the mem test before it loaded windows. After it loaded windows it would lock up if I did anything, started firefox, ran memtest86, etc... I assumed the memory was bad and RMA'd it since it did this and other weird things like scramble the image on the screen before freezing...and sent it back to newegg.

The memory is advertised to run at 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1v

When I look in the bios, the only voltages I can change it to are 2.085 and something that is a little more than 2.1 (2.135 or something, I forget). Is there a way to manually set it to 2.1 or what is the correct voltage to choose?

Are there any other settings I need to change?

http://koitsu.wordpress.com/2007/09/...sus-p5n-e-sli/

has the same mem, board, and problem and says that the issue is solely caused by auto defaulting it to 1T instead of 2T and says that switching it to 2T without changing other options fixes the problem. However, when I boot it with the patriot and g. skill mem that is currently in there and working without problems, mem test shows that auto defaults it to 2T as it is.

Current bios version is 0703 btw. I suppose after I get all this sorted out, I'll have more questions about OCing do's and don'ts. Thanks in advance for your advice


----------



## dac2u

Use BIOS 0608 if possible, it's way more stable than 0703. Also, you should always set your RAM timings manually, if possible. As for the voltage, 2.085 is fine, you could probably even go down to 1.9xx without any trouble.


----------



## r0b126

I read the guide and I have to say... Thanks, that was excellent and answered a whole boatload of questions I had about OCing. I am one of your limitted/no-experience OCers.

For someone doing this for the first time, it sounds like a lot of work. Now even if I get no performance boost out of this at all, or a barely noticable one, I am going to go ahead and do it (after I get my memory issues sorted out) just to give myself a little experience with this.

My question, however, is if the performance boost you get from this is slight, ok, or very very noticable/worth the effort.

I use my rig primarily for gaming. All the home office stuff can be done here or on the laptop.

Current setup:

Asus P5N-E 650i SLI mobo
1GB PC 6400 DDR-2 800MHz Patriot mem 5-5-5-12
1GB PC 6400 DDR-2 800MHz G.Skill mem 5-5-5-15
2x Nvidia GeForce evga 7600GS 512MB cards, SLI
P4 2.8GHz processor w/ 800MHz FSB...I know this old cpu is bottlenecking my system and needs replaced badly...am going to replace it with an Intel E6550 shortly.

The heatsink I use is http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16835101012

I love it so far due to how much quieter it is compared to the pos intel one that I had from a separate mobo and of course how much more effective it is in cooling the CPU. I'm not sure however, if this is considered to be a 'high performance' heatsink effective in cooling OC'd CPU's in this manner.

I just discovered overclock.net last night and feel like a kid in a candy store. I've been building home office PC's and gaming rigs for about 7 years now, but I've always strayed away from OCing anything due to liabilities and false rumors. Thanks for all the help and the massive wealth of information.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I would keep pushing them for a refund and tell them that your close to sending a letter to the Trading Standards. Give me a few weeks and i will be able to say if the MCW30 fits on the board or not. If you cant get the MCP655 go for a Liang D5 as its the same but make sure you get the variable version.


I won't let it drop with Scan. I suspect they'll just push their luck till they get their bluff called. They're making a very big mistake. Trading standards are well aware of electronics merchandisers in the UK trying to escape honouring their legal obligations.

This is what the cards misrenders look like.

Attachment 58769

Attachment 58770

Attachment 58771

Attachment 58772

Attachment 58773

I don't think I'm over reacting really. Scan say it's run fine for 5hrs on 3dMark06. I had the odd glitch here and there for 2 weeks then it started to go bonkers after a month. I tried every possible combo of drivers and even a clean install of windows.

The MCP655 seems to be cheaper than the Laing Vario by quite a bit but a virtually identical pump. LPH is way better than the DDC's so they're out of the running. Fairly certain the MCW30 will fit.

Do you reckon I'll need the accelerator nozzles with that kind of pump?


----------



## Asce

Im planning on getting the nozzles even with the D5. Have you OC'ed you card at all, as it looks like its artifacts


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


found the ram timings, thanks for that.

sorry for the novel here, just have other questions

I do have a few questions about it though since this would be the first time I've ever had to manually adjust them. Right now, everything is set to auto and the current timings are 5-5-5-31. Which I suppose is ok for the memory that I have on board atm.

1 of my dimms is a PC 6400 DDR-2 800MHz Patriot dimm CL 5-5-5-12
the other is the same only G.Skill 5-5-5-15

A week or so ago I had ordered some memory from newegg (they had a special; $58 after MIR for 2x 1GB Corsair PC6400 DDR-2 800MHz 4-4-4-12 dimms)

When I received it, I removed both the dimms from my PC and put the corsair ones in. The PC booted up and still said 5-5-5-31 during the mem test before it loaded windows. After it loaded windows it would lock up if I did anything, started firefox, ran memtest86, etc... I assumed the memory was bad and RMA'd it since it did this and other weird things like scramble the image on the screen before freezing...and sent it back to newegg.

The memory is advertised to run at 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1v

When I look in the bios, the only voltages I can change it to are 2.085 and something that is a little more than 2.1 (2.135 or something, I forget). Is there a way to manually set it to 2.1 or what is the correct voltage to choose?

Are there any other settings I need to change?

http://koitsu.wordpress.com/2007/09/...sus-p5n-e-sli/

has the same mem, board, and problem and says that the issue is solely caused by auto defaulting it to 1T instead of 2T and says that switching it to 2T without changing other options fixes the problem. However, when I boot it with the patriot and g. skill mem that is currently in there and working without problems, mem test shows that auto defaults it to 2T as it is.

Current bios version is 0703 btw. I suppose after I get all this sorted out, I'll have more questions about OCing do's and don'ts. Thanks in advance for your advice



2.08v will be fine - only.02v difference. The 2.17 setting can be saved for when you overclock it. Auto settings can be a pig on this board. You'll see repeated mention of how fussy the board is of RAM.

I have the same Corsair RAM as you - run it 4-4-4-12-2t ALL MANUAL. leaving Command rate at Auto will crash your machine. Mine was a total pain till I set it to 2t.

I'm running 0608 but other users here will help you with advice on 0703 or how to downgrade it.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Im planning on getting the nozzles even with the D5. Have you OC'ed you card at all, as it looks like its artifacts


The card is a "Superclocked" version. I left it at SC stock but if anything, I'd downclock it a bit.

?"as it looks like its artifacts"? what artifacts.....STALKER artifacts? LOL. It's a pain in the rear to play anything with it doing this. The raid on the Freedom base was a nightmare.

I'm running with my old BFG 8600gts OC, with CPU at either 3.4 or 3.2 at the moment, and it's running way better than the 8800gts.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dac2u* 
Use BIOS 0608 if possible, it's way more stable than 0703. Also, you should always set your RAM timings manually, if possible. As for the voltage, 2.085 is fine, you could probably even go down to 1.9xx without any trouble.

try set fsb:ram UNLINKED
FSB = 1424
ram = 712

then set your Vcore to 1.42
ram voltage to 2V

That gave me 3.2Ghz


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bonez* 
The card is a "Superclocked" version. I left it at SC stock but if anything, I'd downclock it a bit.

?"as it looks like its artifacts"? what artifacts.....STALKER artifacts? LOL. It's a pain in the rear to play anything with it doing this. The raid on the Freedom base was a nightmare.

I'm running with my old BFG 8600gts OC, with CPU at either 3.4 or 3.2 at the moment, and it's running way better than the 8800gts.

Scan should refund you, no ifs or buts.


----------



## dac2u

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
try set fsb:ram UNLINKED
FSB = 1424
ram = 712

then set your Vcore to 1.42
ram voltage to 2V

That gave me 3.2Ghz

I appreciate your help, but I don't think you understand what my problem is. I'm unable to OC past 1333 for one, I'm also unable to use anything less than 1.4625v when I set my FSB to 1333, so 1.42 wouldn't work. Anyway, that's not even the issue, it's the fact that my computer has so much trouble posting at 1333 FSB, but when it finally does post, it works great. I want it to post every time I restart the computer, so I'm trying to figure out which component is causing problems.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


I'm at 1066 FSB and it works, 1100 won't post. 1.75 NB wouldn't post either. I have my vdimm at 1.9x, I've had it on 2.179 and 2.253, I've also bumped my MEM up to 1000 before and it worked. Occasionally, I'd see a BSOD though, I don't think it was a memory issue(I think it was a bad XP install, I've since reinstalled). Right now, it's at 800.

Temps: MB is at 42-44C idle, I haven't seen it above 48C udner load and I have my vcore at 1.462. My CPU temp is at a cool 33C idle, it won't go above 48C no matter what software I use.

Here's a weird one, whenever I load up PC Probe, it kills my sound. It also shows the +3.3 line as 3.31-3.33v, +5.0 as 4.86v and +12.0 as 11.78-11.84v; are these allowed to be that far under their rating?

BTW, thanks for your help.


ASUS Probe kills my sound too. All I have to do is adjust the volume and it comes back, but what's causing this?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


I won't let it drop with Scan. I suspect they'll just push their luck till they get their bluff called. They're making a very big mistake. Trading standards are well aware of electronics merchandisers in the UK trying to escape honouring their legal obligations.

This is what the cards misrenders look like.

Attachment 58769

Attachment 58770

Attachment 58771

Attachment 58772

Attachment 58773

I don't think I'm over reacting really. Scan say it's run fine for 5hrs on 3dMark06. I had the odd glitch here and there for 2 weeks then it started to go bonkers after a month. I tried every possible combo of drivers and even a clean install of windows.

The MCP655 seems to be cheaper than the Laing Vario by quite a bit but a virtually identical pump. LPH is way better than the DDC's so they're out of the running. Fairly certain the MCW30 will fit.

Do you reckon I'll need the accelerator nozzles with that kind of pump?



I started getting artifacts with my video card once, RMA'ed it and all was well.

The card I was using was a 7900 gt-oc from BFG in my gaming rig (not my sig rig)


----------



## MuffDiver

i have a P5N-E SLI Corsair Dominator 800mhz Ram and SLI 8800GTS 640's overclocked to (620-965) 10 minutes no Artifacts. my settings for my E6600 are
vcore 1.50 (35c idle 54c load-w/Orthos only)
Ram 2.175 (Corsair memory fan)
NB 1.563 (Hr05-sli-ifx cooler w/40mmfan)
Vcore Offset Voltage auto
8 Multiplier
1600/4x8 = 3.2ghz 10hours Orthos and Prime95 Stable
Ram @ 4-4-4-12 2T TRC=24


----------



## TriBeCa

ugg. dammit. i spent like 15 minutes writing a long response to this that i just now see got lost somehow









so...the short version (because I don't want to re-write) is:

yes, it's worth the effort. if you really don't want to put too much time in, just go for a modest overclock. you'll see clear results and it won't take too much time. it's eeking out the last 10-15% that's really tricky and takes a lot of trial-and-error and troubleshooting. but some of us enjoy that kind of thing









no, your cooler will not be sufficient. i'd be suspicious of whether it could even control your temps at stock--the stock intel cooler may be better. in three different price ranges i'd recommend (I gave links before, but as i lost the post you'll have to look 'em up) the thermalright ultra-120 extreme (buy fan seperately, make sure it'll fit your case, considered the best air cooler available currently), the tuniq tower (only a few degrees C outperformed by the TRUE, and much cheaper), and the arctic 7 freezer pro (very good performance for its price, this was a very popular cooler around here 8 months ago or so, and many are still using it). all will fit on the p5n-e, provided your case can fit the TRUE and the TT (look up their dimensions and measure the distance from your CPU socket to the edge of your case). if you want recommendations for other coolers check out the intel air cooling forum.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


It's a stock cooler, the e2160 is a 1.8Ghz CPU that OC's to 3-3.2Ghz with stock cooling for $84, it's the whole reason I went with this setup, lol.

I'm not really trying to get a higher OC, I was just trying to figure out what component was causing all this POST trouble. I think it's narrowed down to either the PSU or the motherboard. Hrrm, I don't think they'd RMA a board because it doesn't overclock well.


they'd take the RMA if you invented (or...created?) some other issue. as long as there's no physical damage to the board they'll accept it. you'll have to pay to ship it back to them, and it'll be a couple weeks (up to 3, depending on the shipping method you use) before you get a replacement. worst case scenario they send you the same board back.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


found the ram timings, thanks for that.

sorry for the novel here, just have other questions

I do have a few questions about it though since this would be the first time I've ever had to manually adjust them. Right now, everything is set to auto and the current timings are 5-5-5-31. Which I suppose is ok for the memory that I have on board atm.

1 of my dimms is a PC 6400 DDR-2 800MHz Patriot dimm CL 5-5-5-12
the other is the same only G.Skill 5-5-5-15

A week or so ago I had ordered some memory from newegg (they had a special; $58 after MIR for 2x 1GB Corsair PC6400 DDR-2 800MHz 4-4-4-12 dimms)

When I received it, I removed both the dimms from my PC and put the corsair ones in. The PC booted up and still said 5-5-5-31 during the mem test before it loaded windows. After it loaded windows it would lock up if I did anything, started firefox, ran memtest86, etc... I assumed the memory was bad and RMA'd it since it did this and other weird things like scramble the image on the screen before freezing...and sent it back to newegg.

The memory is advertised to run at 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1v

When I look in the bios, the only voltages I can change it to are 2.085 and something that is a little more than 2.1 (2.135 or something, I forget). Is there a way to manually set it to 2.1 or what is the correct voltage to choose?

Are there any other settings I need to change?

http://koitsu.wordpress.com/2007/09/...sus-p5n-e-sli/

has the same mem, board, and problem and says that the issue is solely caused by auto defaulting it to 1T instead of 2T and says that switching it to 2T without changing other options fixes the problem. However, when I boot it with the patriot and g. skill mem that is currently in there and working without problems, mem test shows that auto defaults it to 2T as it is.

Current bios version is 0703 btw. I suppose after I get all this sorted out, I'll have more questions about OCing do's and don'ts. Thanks in advance for your advice


Auto sometimes detects 1T and that will cause stability issues most of the time (though i've been able to run 1T succesfully on another board with my corsair dominators). However, loose timings will also cause the stability issues, it's not "solely" due to 1T, though it may be in some cases. You can look at the ram timings guide in my sig for more details, but basically what happens is the loose timings mean the RAM is responding to requests for information by the system too slowly, which as you might imagine can lead to serious stability issues. set it to 4-4-4-12-2T and you should be fine (I suspect it's the tRAS that's really causing the problem, although it could also be the CAS latency--either way, there's no reason to run your RAM at lower bandwidth than it's capable of).

as others have said, use the 2.08V option. and 0703 is a lousy BIOS, but it should suffice if you're not OCing at all (though of course we recommend it







). if you do OC, definately downgrade to 0608.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MuffDiver*


i have a P5N-E SLI Corsair Dominator 800mhz Ram and SLI 8800GTS 640's overclocked to (620-965) 10 minutes no Artifacts. my settings for my E6600 are
vcore 1.50 (35c idle 54c load-w/Orthos only)
Ram 2.175 (Corsair memory fan)
NB 1.563 (Hr05-sli-ifx cooler w/40mmfan)
Vcore Offset Voltage auto
8 Multiplier
1600/4x8 = 3.2ghz 10hours Orthos and Prime95 Stable
Ram @ 4-4-4-12 2T TRC=24


1.5vcore seems really high for 3.2...I can get my e6400 to 3.2 with less (though at 3.2 I need 1.75vNB...I can reduce vNB at around 3.3). Seems to me you should be able to keep your stock multi of x9 with that rig...and aim for 3.6


----------



## Kopi

My motherboard is le ****.

Restarted after a couple rounds of 2142...when it booted into windows I had no USB devices, had to reboot to get them back.

Going to RMA...


----------



## TriBeCa

was it oc'd?


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


I appreciate your help, but I don't think you understand what my problem is. I'm unable to OC past 1333 for one, I'm also unable to use anything less than 1.4625v when I set my FSB to 1333, so 1.42 wouldn't work. Anyway, that's not even the issue, it's the fact that my computer has so much trouble posting at 1333 FSB, but when it finally does post, it works great. I want it to post every time I restart the computer, so I'm trying to figure out which component is causing problems.


oh i guess sometimes OC also needs some LUCK


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
was it oc'd?

Of course, but if it can't handle 340fsb its not good nuff for me.


----------



## TriBeCa

might've just been undervolted for the oc.... you 100% sure it was stable, and there's no way you can get it stable?

i've taken to not trusting orthos as a sole stability check. SMP folding will hit errors (early unit end) on an OC that will pass orthos, and some OCs that will test ok for 30 minutes under orthos will cause a reboot within a few seconds of folding. some borderline OCs will even complete a few WUs before hitting an early unit end. from that point one or two more voltage boosts will usually be stable.


----------



## Asce

I got the same problem again last nioght while playing BF2142, game started to stutter and then blue screened.


----------



## adamc

Can I use a 8 pin motherboard connector, with the 4 pin motherboard CPU connector thingy? (Dunno what else to call it). Even though I don't have this mobo, I am going to be getting sometime in the near future.


----------



## Ravin

lol...page 420


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adamc*


Can I use a 8 pin motherboard connector, with the 4 pin motherboard CPU connector thingy? (Dunno what else to call it). Even though I don't have this mobo, I am going to be getting sometime in the near future.


I assume you mean PSU. look closely at your 8-pin connector, it should be able to split in half leaving you with a 4-pin connector. at least, mine does.


----------



## cscheat

guys, i manage to hit 3.29Ghz but got problems !!!

after the window vista logo appears, suddenly memory dump errors BSOD!!! i try to up my ram volts and loosen timings to 5-5-5-15... but still BSOD !!! Help !!!

i wanna play CRYSIS smoother !


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


guys, i manage to hit 3.29Ghz but got problems !!!

after the window vista logo appears, suddenly memory dump errors BSOD!!! i try to up my ram volts and loosen timings to 5-5-5-15... but still BSOD !!! Help !!!

i wanna play CRYSIS smoother !


*3.9* on a *2160*? That's truly awesome -- but it might be the limit.


----------



## Asce

You mean 3.29 not 3.9


----------



## hometoast

See. that's what 3 hours of sleep will do to you. (doh)


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, you might just be tapped out on what you can stay stable on. i'm getting those BSOD errors regardless of everything i can think of at 3.4GHz.

I was gonna ask, actually, about my OC. My sig OC is stable, but I can't get 3.4 with vcores up to 1.6. I'd had one going reasonably stable at 1.593 (3.4GHz, RAM 1:1, otherwise same as my sig), folding for about 24 hours. Started playing some CS:S (I ran the graphics stress test on this btw, and scored over 280 average FPS...LOL). Was fine for an hour or two, then I get "hl2.exe has encountered an error and must be closed". I assumed this was stability related, but not 100% sure, and just went ahead and kept playing.

After about another hour I start getting crazy-ass distortion in the video, like the video card isn't quite displaying at the correct rate. Starts with screen flickering and rolling, then it gets worse and worse until I'm just looking at a mash of random pixels. When I reboot, the video errors are there in BIOS too. Had to mash the reset button in order to clear BIOS so it would go back to stock, then it boots normally. Tried 1.6vcore, got the same video weirdness pretty quickly.

Next I tried going back to my sig OC, but decided to try tightening the RAM timings since I think I've pretty much given up on 3.4GHz. I went to what I had before at 3.4GHz before I discovered it wasn't quite stable, which was 4-3-3-3-2T (7 tRC). and I got the video weirdness again! put RAM back to stock and tried again, no apparent problems....

anyone got any ideas as to what's causing this?


----------



## Asce

Not sure, but i think ive figured out whats causing my BSOD. So im going to try with a lower vdimm voltage and if that doesnt work try switching the RAM around and removing one stick. And if that fails i will buy the OCZ Spec Ops kits and RMA this Geil Kit.


----------



## dac2u

TriBeCa:
Thanks again for your help. I wanted to post an update, so other's might be able to figure out their troubles. I found out what my problem was. I checked out my vdroop and it was about .11 or so. I did the pencil mod for my board and now I'm down to a .02 vdroop and I have no issues posting anymore.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


After about another hour I start getting crazy-ass distortion in the video, like the video card isn't quite displaying at the correct rate. Starts with screen flickering and rolling, then it gets worse and worse until I'm just looking at a mash of random pixels. When I reboot, the video errors are there in BIOS too. Had to mash the reset button in order to clear BIOS so it would go back to stock, then it boots normally. Tried 1.6vcore, got the same video weirdness pretty quickly.

anyone got any ideas as to what's causing this?


Sounds to me like your VGA RAM is ready to fry. That's what happened w/my 7600gt a while back.


----------



## TriBeCa

hmm...heat related you think? I'm not OCing my GFX at all...and the case temp shouldn't be too bad. although admittedly it's the hottest part. GPU gets up to ~72-74C. only sinks I could mount are on the back of it...the 8800s have a massive stock cooling setup. looks like 80mm fan (maybe 60), heatsinks and pipes, and vent system so the air taken in by the fan gets blown out the back of the case. no way i'm removing that.

I've been thinking of modding a 120mm fan into the side panel right over the GPU (the middle of the fan would be about level with the side of the GFX card). this should both cool the back of the card (and the NB) and provide fresh intake air for the GPU intake fan. thoughts?

edit: oh, and dac2u, that's awesome


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


hmm...heat related you think? I'm not OCing my GFX at all...


I dunnno if it's heat or not, I'm just saying that corrupted video in BIOS is typically a VGA RAM issue. Sometimes they just go. I was in the same boat as you- a non-OC'd card. Granted, the cooling solution on the EVGA 7600gt is lacking compared to your card. Still- I have 2x80mm fans right next to my VGA- one in front of it and another right behind it exhausting to the outside of the case.


----------



## TriBeCa

hmmm....

the card seems to be 7C cooler (under CS:S) under my sig OC than it was when it was having trouble...this makes sense for when the vcore was 0.07 higher...but not for when the only difference from now was tighter RAM timings. however, i tried that immediately after i'd been having trouble, so if it IS heat it could just be that it was carrying over.

i think i'll try tighter timings again soon.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yeah, you might just be tapped out on what you can stay stable on. i'm getting those BSOD errors regardless of everything i can think of at 3.4GHz.

I was gonna ask, actually, about my OC. My sig OC is stable, but I can't get 3.4 with vcores up to 1.6. I'd had one going reasonably stable at 1.593 (3.4GHz, RAM 1:1, otherwise same as my sig), folding for about 24 hours. Started playing some CS:S (I ran the graphics stress test on this btw, and scored over 280 average FPS...LOL). Was fine for an hour or two, then I get "hl2.exe has encountered an error and must be closed". I assumed this was stability related, but not 100% sure, and just went ahead and kept playing.

After about another hour I start getting crazy-ass distortion in the video, like the video card isn't quite displaying at the correct rate. Starts with screen flickering and rolling, then it gets worse and worse until I'm just looking at a mash of random pixels. When I reboot, the video errors are there in BIOS too. Had to mash the reset button in order to clear BIOS so it would go back to stock, then it boots normally. Tried 1.6vcore, got the same video weirdness pretty quickly.

Next I tried going back to my sig OC, but decided to try tightening the RAM timings since I think I've pretty much given up on 3.4GHz. I went to what I had before at 3.4GHz before I discovered it wasn't quite stable, which was 4-3-3-3-2T (7 tRC). and I got the video weirdness again! put RAM back to stock and tried again, no apparent problems....

anyone got any ideas as to what's causing this?



So correct me if I'm wrong your RAM is at 1700Mhz? I'd put it in Sync mode if linked and pop your vCore back to 1.31v with 100mv offset see if it will run like that then work on clocking the RAM up that high.

I had the scrolling BIOS a long time ago. I used to have to clear CMOS every time till I realised that tweaking the DVI - VGA cable connection resolves it even when the BIOS is rolliing. Try loosening the connection screws and tightening up again. It would seem that I damaged the cable because of not removing it when I flip the case on it's side to clear CMOS etc. Apologies if you've tried any of this before. This is a big thread now and the site is slow tonight.

Asce,just to let you know - Scan have decided to retest now they've seen the screen shots, hopefully they'll see it for themselves. If they sort me out a refund I'll still buy from them but will probably never go for an EVGA card again.


----------



## hometoast

Ok. So I've gone through Tribeca's guide and I can POST on anything up to 1400 fsb. Anything after that I have to reset twice to correct it. And anything from 1350 to 1400 fails orthos with a floating point error.

I've tried up to 1720 with 1.5 NB, 1.38ish vcore and 5-5-5-18 mem timings.

I've tried to keep a sane divider or leaving it at 800ddr2.

Could I have just recieved a bum I-like-stock-only mobo/cpu?


----------



## MuffDiver

Im @ 3.2 w/1600fsb 8 multiplier 1600/4x8 orthos stable 8 hours
Vcore-1.5
Ram- 2.17
NB- 1.563
Vcore offset- auto
Ram @ 4-4-4-12-2T TRC=24 all others on auto
0608-Bios


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MuffDiver* 
Im @ 3.2 w/1600fsb 8 multiplier 1600/4x8 orthos stable 8 hours
Vcore-1.5
Ram- 2.17
NB- 1.563
Vcore offset- auto
Ram @ 4-4-4-12-2T TRC=24 all others on auto
0608-Bios

You should be able to bring down that voltage a bit, Im at the same 3.2 (1600fsb) and 1.35V+100mV, and 1.3xxV on the NB, ram is 2.0 somethin I dunno. Im still using the good ol' 0403 BIOS


----------



## MuffDiver

i guess i could drop my voltages down a bit.
but my temps are very low and im hoping my E6600 breaks down so i have an excuse to buy a Q6600 G0 lol


----------



## Bonez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MuffDiver* 
Im @ 3.2 w/1600fsb 8 multiplier 1600/4x8 orthos stable 8 hours
Vcore-1.5
Ram- 2.17
NB- 1.563
Vcore offset- auto
Ram @ 4-4-4-12-2T TRC=24 all others on auto
0608-Bios

If you put your offset to +100mv, you should be able to drop your vCore to at least 1.39v which means lower temperature. Give it a try man.

Mine is:3.4Ghz BIOS 0608

FSB: 1700
Mem: 850 Linked - Sync mode

VCore :1.3125v
offset: +100mv
Mem: 2.178v
NB: 1.56v ......did it and it's not too hot; still with stock Heatsink.
LDT frequecy: 4x this has been the real key to reducing/stopping system hangs/stalls. Default is 5, changing to 4 works wonders.

The vCore offset allows you to drop the vCore by .10v but in PC Probe2 it will show as normal. ie mine shows my vCore as 1.41v on the above OC.

I have 4 days off now and will start the push to 3.7Ghz if possible.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


So correct me if I'm wrong your RAM is at 1700Mhz? I'd put it in Sync mode if linked and pop your vCore back to 1.31v with 100mv offset see if it will run like that then work on clocking the RAM up that high.

I had the scrolling BIOS a long time ago. I used to have to clear CMOS every time till I realised that tweaking the DVI - VGA cable connection resolves it even when the BIOS is rolliing. Try loosening the connection screws and tightening up again. It would seem that I damaged the cable because of not removing it when I flip the case on it's side to clear CMOS etc. Apologies if you've tried any of this before. This is a big thread now and the site is slow tonight.

Asce,just to let you know - Scan have decided to retest now they've seen the screen shots, hopefully they'll see it for themselves. If they sort me out a refund I'll still buy from them but will probably never go for an EVGA card again.



lol no my RAM is at 825. I highly doubt it'd post that high with any vdimm under the sun. This chip has an 8x multi, so at 3.4GHz 1:1 RAM is (3.4/8)*2 = 850.

and it's not a scrolling BIOS...this is flickering, distortion (often of just part of the rendered image), and eventually just a solid pattern of colored pixels. Really wacky stuff, basically. and it always starts when playing something and then continues after reboot...turning down my OC resolved it, if you look back over my post.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Ok. So I've gone through Tribeca's guide and I can POST on anything up to 1400 fsb. Anything after that I have to reset twice to correct it. And anything from 1350 to 1400 fails orthos with a floating point error.

I've tried up to 1720 with 1.5 NB, 1.38ish vcore and 5-5-5-18 mem timings.

I've tried to keep a sane divider or leaving it at 800ddr2.

Could I have just recieved a bum I-like-stock-only mobo/cpu?


$50 says you can post over 1400 if you increase your vcore, 1.38 is fairly low, although I'm not sure how volt-hungry the e6750 is.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


$50 says you can post over 1400 if you increase your vcore, 1.38 is fairly low, although I'm not sure how volt-hungry the e6750 is.



haha, I'll take that action. I'll add another .05-.08 and see how it goes. I wanted to up the vcore, but the constant beep of the reboots was driving the wifey nuts! "If I hear that thing beep one more time!!!" it was 1am so I packed it in.


----------



## TriBeCa

hahaha, yeah I been there









the safe way to adjust vcore upwards is in one or two steps...when you hit a value that won't post increase by 0.0125 or 0.025 then try again. This will prevent you from jumping into a range that will run your cpu too hot. it's also theoretically possible that too much vcore would be unstable (especially with the power issues on this board), so taking small steps will prevent you from jumping past a stable range into an unstable one.

Also, keep the FSB hole of this board in mind. Mine is at 375-400, most people's seem to be a bit higher...but it's possible that you're running into yours at 350 or so.

What's the multi on the e6750, by the way?


----------



## Ravin

So the Zalman 9700 arrives sometime today, and when it does I'll be conducting surgery on my rig. On the to do list:

Breakdown rig, remove MB from case, remove all HS
Reseat VGA and NB coolers w/AS5
Install RAM sinks on VGA
Install RAM sinks on VRM 
Install Zalman 9700LED
Reassemble, boot, benchmark @ 333*9, post temperatures and photos.

Depending on how this turns out, and how my extortion funds pan out (insurance settlement) I'll be looking to upgrade the NB and SB with aftermarket coolers- keep your eyes peeled for copper chipset coolers that will fit with the Zalman 9700 and SLI cards on this board.

Also I'll likely be replacing the case fans- I'll need 3 really good, quiet 120mm fans and one 80mm fan. Preferably with blue/no leds. Quiet is the key.

Edit: Current Load temps on stock cooling: CPU=50-52C (hottest core, Coretemp) MB=38-42C (ASUS Probe) GPU:78-82C


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Also, keep the FSB hole of this board in mind. Mine is at 375-400, most people's seem to be a bit higher...but it's possible that you're running into yours at 350 or so.

What's the multi on the e6750, by the way?


In another thread it was suggested I set vcore to 1.4-ish for my cpu - so having that reference helps (at least with my nerves) a bit. the 6750 has a 8x multi -- which is why 400 is so magical.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


So the Zalman 9700 arrives sometime today, and when it does I'll be conducting surgery on my rig. On the to do list:

Breakdown rig, remove MB from case, remove all HS
Reseat VGA and NB coolers w/AS5
Install RAM sinks on VGA
Install RAM sinks on VRM 
Install Zalman 9700LED
Reassemble, boot, benchmark @ 333*9, post temperatures and photos.

Depending on how this turns out, and how my extortion funds pan out (insurance settlement) I'll be looking to upgrade the NB and SB with aftermarket coolers- keep your eyes peeled for copper chipset coolers that will fit with the Zalman 9700 and SLI cards on this board.

Also I'll likely be replacing the case fans- I'll need 3 really good, quiet 120mm fans and one 80mm fan. Preferably with blue/no leds. Quiet is the key.

Edit: Current Load temps on stock cooling: CPU=50-52C (hottest core, Coretemp) MB=38-42C (ASUS Probe) GPU:78-82C


I don't know about quiet fans, only the turbine engine variety







my fans are 2.7k RPM 114.7 CFM 45.5dBA monsters









However, I've got this on my SB, which is copper and will fit with SLI cards. More than enough for a SB, and simple to mount.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


In another thread it was suggested I set vcore to 1.4-ish for my cpu - so having that reference helps (at least with my nerves) a bit. the 6750 has a 8x multi -- which is why 400 is so magical.

















same as my e6400 then. you might ask around what other people have achieved with that chip, so you know what range to expect to hit a wall in.


----------



## Sinimeister

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I think whats causing your high temps is your voltage. Put your volts to 1.35 and see if it is stable. I don't mean to worry you it just seems your temps are high. Im pretty sure our processors are only supposed to go up to 65 celsius. I only increased my volts to 1.3625 because I was trying to get past an fsb hole.

Try to use 1.35 as long as you can until you become unstable. Ideally, the lowest voltage possible should be used.

If the temps stay high, try reseating your cooler.

Good Luck!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


he solved this a while back...and yeah, it was indeed the vcore. he had it on auto, and the board was pushing WAY too much vcore through the chip. he's got it stable with 1.4something vcore, iirc.


Thanks again guys and to everyone else who made me feel like a complete moron by having vcore on auto, hehe







I finally had some time and money (just in case things went wrong) to have the balls to lap my heatsink/IHS. But before that I was going to figure out why I was having 40ish C idle temps on stock settings even with a 1.35 vcore. I even reverted back to the stock E6300 HSF, but the temps just would not go down.










And yes this was with the fan plugged in, and with AS5. I just could not figure it out. The only thing I can guess is that my board appears warped around the area where the CPU is, which could lead to improper seating of the HSF. I plopped my Gemin II on, screwed it in as tightly as I could manage without breaking it, booted up and was shocked at a 31 C idle, 37 C load. Woohoo! Finally some temperatures I am seeing from what everyone else has been posting on here. I'm currently stable at 2.80 GHz again with these load temps:










And after having it at 60+ C before (was in the old screenshots I posted, which I hope have been erased from peoples minds), I am very pleased with the results so far. When I get some more time, and courage, I'll see how much lapping will aid in my temps. I even landed my hands on some DICE, and have been reading those threads









Anyway, just thought I'd share my silly experience. I am nervous now to take off the IHS again to lap it, fearing that it will not reseat properly as before, because all I had done was screw it in a bit more tightly to compensate for the warped part of the board.

Every post in this thread has been useful, and that OC guide you have up is priceless TriBeCa. Cheers mates!


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
However, I've got this on my SB, which is copper and will fit with SLI cards. More than enough for a SB, and simple to mount.

Will that fit (and be useful) on the NB as well? I might get two.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
same as my e6400 then. you might ask around what other people have achieved with that chip, so you know what range to expect to hit a wall in.

I've never found anyone with a 6750 on a 650i board. But tech articles say they OC'd to 3.5-3.8. 3.8 being questionable. But they're all air cooled and some claim on stock intel fan.
zdnet
neoseeker
techreport

The main difference is they're all running 'better' (faster) ram than mine.


----------



## Ravin

Well, wouln't ya know it- went to snap photos and ran out of batteries.









So I installed the RAM sinks on the VRMs- for the vDimms I had to snip one row of fins from one sink, and had to cut down the other by 50% to fit under the Zalman bracket. Not the greatest, but better than nothing. For the Vcore I was unable to install on the +100mv VRMs due to space limitations.

The Zalman was a snap to install, and loud as hell at 2800rpm. Still, it does the job very well. CPU idle/load went from 32/52C to 23/37C. 15C drop in load temp
















NB temp went to 23/32C idle/load. 10C drop









Have not tested the GPU yet....more to come.


----------



## Gauvenator

Had anyone tried using this cpu fan on this board?
Thermaltake V1

I'm interested in it because my computer is dead quiet until my Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7 starts to speed up.

I'm open to suggestions for other coolers that are completely silent, but are better at cooling than the stock cooler.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Had anyone tried using this cpu fan on this board?
Thermaltake V1

I'm interested in it because my computer is dead quiet until my Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7 starts to speed up.

I'm open to suggestions for other coolers that are completely silent, but are better at cooling than the stock cooler.

Thanks in advance.


For that kind of cash you should check out the Thermalright Ultra 120 or Zalman 9700.

This just in on my Zalman9700, at 1200rpm it's really quiet, load temp on the CPU is 42C, just 5C higher than at 2800rpm.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sinimeister*


Thanks again guys and to everyone else who made me feel like a complete moron by having vcore on auto, hehe







I finally had some time and money (just in case things went wrong) to have the balls to lap my heatsink/IHS. But before that I was going to figure out why I was having 40ish C idle temps on stock settings even with a 1.35 vcore. I even reverted back to the stock E6300 HSF, but the temps just would not go down.

And yes this was with the fan plugged in, and with AS5. I just could not figure it out. The only thing I can guess is that my board appears warped around the area where the CPU is, which could lead to improper seating of the HSF. I plopped my Gemin II on, screwed it in as tightly as I could manage without breaking it, booted up and was shocked at a 31 C idle, 37 C load. Woohoo! Finally some temperatures I am seeing from what everyone else has been posting on here. I'm currently stable at 2.80 GHz again with these load temps:

And after having it at 60+ C before (was in the old screenshots I posted, which I hope have been erased from peoples minds), I am very pleased with the results so far. When I get some more time, and courage, I'll see how much lapping will aid in my temps. I even landed my hands on some DICE, and have been reading those threads









Anyway, just thought I'd share my silly experience. I am nervous now to take off the IHS again to lap it, fearing that it will not reseat properly as before, because all I had done was screw it in a bit more tightly to compensate for the warped part of the board.

Every post in this thread has been useful, and that OC guide you have up is priceless TriBeCa. Cheers mates!










Nice one! 44C is a nice cool load temp...you've got some room to play there









Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Will that fit (and be useful) on the NB as well? I might get two.

I've never found anyone with a 6750 on a 650i board. But tech articles say they OC'd to 3.5-3.8. 3.8 being questionable. But they're all air cooled and some claim on stock intel fan.
zdnet
neoseeker
techreport

The main difference is they're all running 'better' (faster) ram than mine.


I'd be surprised if that Vizo cooler would outperform the stock HS (with AS5). Yes, the Vizo is an active cooler, and yes it's copper, but it's really tiny. The stock HS may perform as well/better because if it's massive surface area alone.

Keep in mind that reviewers often get sent the best of the best components.... The moral of the story is you should be aiming to get as high over 400 FSB as you can. So the FSB hole in the board will be an issue for you. I'd really recommend dropping your CPU multi down to 6x and seeing how high you can get your FSB, and then backing the FSB back down and going back to 8x to see what you can get stable. But the 6x multi will let you know exactly which FSB's are possible for you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Well, wouln't ya know it- went to snap photos and ran out of batteries.









So I installed the RAM sinks on the VRMs- for the vDimms I had to snip one row of fins from one sink, and had to cut down the other by 50% to fit under the Zalman bracket. Not the greatest, but better than nothing. For the Vcore I was unable to install on the +100mv VRMs due to space limitations.

The Zalman was a snap to install, and loud as hell at 2800rpm. Still, it does the job very well. CPU idle/load went from 32/52C to 23/37C. 15C drop in load temp
















NB temp went to 23/32C idle/load. 10C drop









Have not tested the GPU yet....more to come.


Nice results. Given the NB drop, and the results I got when I put sinks on my mosfets, I wonder how much of the CPU drop is attributable to the mosfet cooling?

Also...am I the only one who's been able to fit sinks on the +100mV mosfets? Did you use the blue anodized aluminum zalman vram sinks? 'Cause if you don't mount them lengthwise you can fit 3 in a row there, and then use smaller sinks for the ones that setup doesn't catch.


----------



## Kopi

Opinion on northbridge staps?

Turned the FSB back up to 454 for 3.2ghz...and it seems to be, well, more stable than 2.8 but at the same volts. Only thing I could think of is northbridge straps..


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Nice results. Given the NB drop, and the results I got when I put sinks on my mosfets, I wonder how much of the CPU drop is attributable to the mosfet cooling?

Also...am I the only one who's been able to fit sinks on the +100mV mosfets? Did you use the blue anodized aluminum zalman vram sinks? 'Cause if you don't mount them lengthwise you can fit 3 in a row there, and then use smaller sinks for the ones that setup doesn't catch.


There's no way to tell how the MOSFET cooling helped out on the CPU- I had to mount them before putting the Zalman on. At best I would guess 2-3C.

Nope on the Zalman sinks- I went with Swiftech copper sinks- 14mm cubed. That made it 5mm too big to fit 3 in a row next to the inductor coils. Not a biggie for me, I'm not using the +100mV anyway.

I'd also say the NB drop was probably due to the AS5 and superb mount job, coupled with increased airflow from the Zalman. When I go from 1200rpm to 2800rpm my NB temps change 3-5C. I also noted the surface of the NB sink is crap- really uneven. If I would have had time I would have lapped it, but since replacements are slated I just left it be. _EDIT: also it used to be that my NB HS was just warmish to the touch, now its hot enough to roast a turkey._

Final note- I did have to trim some of my air duct to get it back in- seems my measurments for size were good- the sink fit inside the duct perfect, just my center point for mounting was off by 7.5mm from what I thought it was.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Opinion on northbridge staps?

Turned the FSB back up to 454 for 3.2ghz...and it seems to be, well, more stable than 2.8 but at the same volts. Only thing I could think of is northbridge straps..


Sounds to me like you found the hole on your board and jumped from one strap to another.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


However, I've got this on my SB, which is copper and will fit with SLI cards. More than enough for a SB, and simple to mount.


Saw that one. You got the fan on it too?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Opinion on northbridge staps?

Turned the FSB back up to 454 for 3.2ghz...and it seems to be, well, more stable than 2.8 but at the same volts. Only thing I could think of is northbridge straps..

What Ravin said. I need 1.75vNB to post at 400FSB on my board, but I'm fine at 1.56 if I push past that. 454 is a no-go for me though, but I'm pretty sure that's my chip. You and your damn week 32 conroe









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
There's no way to tell how the MOSFET cooling helped out on the CPU- I had to mount them before putting the Zalman on. At best I would guess 2-3C.

Nope on the Zalman sinks- I went with Swiftech copper sinks- 14mm cubed. That made it 5mm too big to fit 3 in a row next to the inductor coils. Not a biggie for me, I'm not using the +100mV anyway.

I'd also say the NB drop was probably due to the AS5 and superb mount job, coupled with increased airflow from the Zalman. When I go from 1200rpm to 2800rpm my NB temps change 3-5C. I also noted the surface of the NB sink is crap- really uneven. If I would have had time I would have lapped it, but since replacements are slated I just left it be. _EDIT: also it used to be that my NB HS was just warmish to the touch, now its hot enough to roast a turkey._

Final note- I did have to trim some of my air duct to get it back in- seems my measurments for size were good- the sink fit inside the duct perfect, just my center point for mounting was off by 7.5mm from what I thought it was.

Yeah, reseating that NB cooler makes a huge difference. You should feel how toasty mine gets with a Tt spirit II on it, and that's even got it's own fan. Yeah, the stock NB surface is garbage, has huge deep grooves in it. Short of lapping, the best thing you can do is to spread some AS5 on it and rub it off again, to fill up the deeper grooves without overdoing the total amount of TIM.

And yeah, I know you can't tell how much the mosfets helped. But mine did a crazy 8-10C across my whole board (CPU, MB, and GPU; mind I was at ~1.57vcore), so I was curious. I'm guessing it did some, because I doubt reseating the NB was responsible for your _whole_ 10C drop on the NB.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Saw that one. You got the fan on it too?

Stop editing your post!









Yeah, I've got the fan on it. The fan basically sits inside the heatsink, so I doubt it'd work too well without--not enough surface area. It's pretty attractive as low-profile chipset coolers go, though you won't see too much of it with two 8800's in there


----------



## Ravin

GPU temps are in....rock solid 71C. Thats a full 7-10C drop. You shoulda seen the amount of thermal gunk EVGA put on.....Must of been a whole syringe worth of compound in there.

Ramsinks seem to have helped a bit too, b4 I could not OC my memory at all. ATItool's find max mem actually could not operate at stock speeds, while now it's @ 721MHz and no errors for over an hour. One thing to note about the EVGA 7600gt cooler is that it covers 2 of the RAM chips but does not contact them at all. I was only able to put sinks on two of the 4 chips.

I would put a better cooler and more RAM sinks on, but I'm thinking 8800GT. Imagine both my CPU and GPU would be 65nm. In fact, if I do, I'll renamy my rig: 65nm Tech


----------



## Gauvenator

Yah I'm thinking of an 8800gt also.


----------



## cscheat

*guys !!!

I NEED ADVICE QUICK !!!!!
now i saw a ram called

1. Crucial Ballistix DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz 2GB Kit
2. Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz 2GB Kit
Chipset: Micron D9GMH [B6-3]

is this ram ok for my board !!???? i think HYPER X SUCKS !*


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cscheat* 
*
2. Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz 2GB Kit
Chipset: Micron D9GMH [B6-3]
is this ram ok for my board !!???? i think HYPER X SUCKS !*

Micron D9GMH are great ICs. Ballistixs are the shizzy, and they should work with the P5NE


----------



## dac2u

I'm partial to Patriot Extreme Performance, I'm able to OC to 1000 MHz with 4-4-3-8 timings @ 2.179v.


----------



## TriBeCa

i <3 my 8800. based on the 3dmark scores you've reported in the past, compared to my scores, even a 320MB gts should increase your 3dmark score by at least 50%. I score over 12k on my rig, and you've got twice the cores









and cscheat...while kingston used to be/is a trusted name for RAM, they do _not_ make performance/OCing RAM. their RAM is good and reliable at stock, but not designed for anything more than that.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


i <3 my 8800. based on the 3dmark scores you've reported in the past, compared to my scores, even a 320MB gts should increase your 3dmark score by at least 50%. I score over 12k on my rig, and you've got twice the cores










I bet w/ 8800GT in my box I hit 14K+ in 3Dmark. My 7600GT is wimpy. ~4K


----------



## Apostle

Hi Peeps I have been trying to oc this mother board with a q6600 cpu and I am having no luck at all if anyone has managed to do it could they post what they did for me so I have a basic starter as it's driving me nuts I want to get to 3.0 gig from 2.4

Any help would be Appreciated.
Thanx in advance.

Sorry forgot about specs was like 3 am was v tired =/

4 GiG Patriot ram 2x2 pairs
Ati 2900xt
700w atrak psu
Cooler is a Coolmaster Eclipse (has tobe bolted to motherboard)


----------



## TriBeCa

ravin's your man, he got 3GHz at stock with _less_ than stock vcore.

but you should be able to achieve 3GHz if you follow the guide in my sig...if you run into specific problems let us know. the main thing to be aware of us that your quad is a power hog, and this board doesn't distribute power too well. so the less voltage you push through every other MB component (especially NB and vdimm) the better.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


i <3 my 8800. based on the 3dmark scores you've reported in the past, compared to my scores, even a 320MB gts should increase your 3dmark score by at least 50%. I score over 12k on my rig, and you've got twice the cores









and cscheat...while kingston used to be/is a trusted name for RAM, they do _not_ make performance/OCing RAM. their RAM is good and reliable at stock, but not designed for anything more than that.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Micron D9GMH are great ICs. Ballistixs are the shizzy, and they should work with the P5NE


*
wow, anyone have OC this crucial ballistixs on this board before ???????*


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I'd be surprised if that Vizo cooler would outperform the stock HS (with AS5). Yes, the Vizo is an active cooler, and yes it's copper, but it's really tiny. The stock HS may perform as well/better because if it's massive surface area alone.

Keep in mind that reviewers often get sent the best of the best components.... The moral of the story is you should be aiming to get as high over 400 FSB as you can. So the FSB hole in the board will be an issue for you. I'd really recommend dropping your CPU multi down to 6x and seeing how high you can get your FSB, and then backing the FSB back down and going back to 8x to see what you can get stable. But the 6x multi will let you know exactly which FSB's are possible for you.

Anyone know if the Thermaltake spirit II would fit on my NB with the AC Freezer?
I'm going to order that Vizo for my SB and wanted to bundle with a better NB cooling solution.
I'm looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103015
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835425007
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018
I do like the pricepoint of the CoolerMaster fans for my SB though.

re: 6x. Yeah I've been doing that. I had 10 min free yesterday so I was able to post and boot at 1450, 6x, with a an effective vcore of .100. So when I have more time this weekend I think my vcore was my problem.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*











*
wow, anyone have OC this crucial ballistixs on this board before ???????*


Mine are not the same model, but do have the same ICs- the only real difference is the heat spreader.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


I'm looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103015
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835425007
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018
I do like the pricepoint of the CoolerMaster fans for my SB though.


Ive been looking at all the exact same stuff. I think the TT-SpiritII should be sufficient for the NB, but don't know if it fits w/ your cooler. I think it should- it is multidirectional mountable, and the NB chip actually sits far enough away from my Zalman that it looks like it will fit.

RE the coolermaster for the SB- I like the one that has the thinner fins, although I dont know if it will hinder SLI.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Anyone know if the Thermaltake spirit II would fit on my NB with the AC Freezer?
I'm going to order that Vizo for my SB and wanted to bundle with a better NB cooling solution.
I'm looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103015
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835425007
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018
I do like the pricepoint of the CoolerMaster fans for my SB though.

re: 6x. Yeah I've been doing that. I had 10 min free yesterday so I was able to post and boot at 1450, 6x, with a an effective vcore of .100. So when I have more time this weekend I think my vcore was my problem.


It should, but I can't specifically confirm. If you tell me how far off the bottom edge (towards the GFX) of the CPU socket your AC7 extends, I can tell you if it'll fit. It mounts in any direction, and the mounting is so flexible you can actually mount the base off by a cm or two in any direction as well (the mating surface of the NB chip is tiny, and as long as it fully contacts the Tt Spirit II's mating surface fully, especially near the heatpipe, you should be fine).

You'll probably have to remount your CPU cooler to put it on, and you'll definately have to remove your MB from the case.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Ok here is an update:

I set the CPU to 1.15 +100 and it booted to Windows. I upped the FSB 1 point and no POST. I took it down to stock it booted. I didn't try lower though.

I set the CPU to 1.35 no +100 and it booted to Windows. I lowered the FSB 1 point and frozen Bios. I retried but upped it 1 and it didn't POST.

Does something sound faulty here? I noticed the rev on the board is 1.01G, sounds pretty early so maybe it doesn't like quads?


I have an update here:

I upgraded to EVGA680i board and it seems I have the same issue, I can't bump up the chip even a single point on the FSB and voltages are still acting the same. Can we rule a bad chip? It's ironic I have the same issue on two new boards when C2D chips are fine on them. Let me know since I can still return this chip without a dent in my wallet.

Thanks for any help guys I appreciate it!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


I have an update here:

I upgraded to EVGA680i board and it seems I have the same issue, I can't bump up the chip even a single point on the FSB and voltages are still acting the same. Can we rule a bad chip? It's ironic I have the same issue on two new boards when C2D chips are fine on them. Let me know since I can still return this chip without a dent in my wallet.

Thanks for any help guys I appreciate it!


Did you get the A1 revision for that EVGA board? Those are the only ones that do well OCing quads. The T1 revision gives similar quad performance as the P5NE-SLI.

I doubt Intel will accept an RMA b/c the chip won't OC- especially if it will boot at stock. I had a heck of a time getting them to take my D820 that died of delamination (heat failure).


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Apostle*


Hi Peeps I have been trying to oc this mother board with a q6600 cpu and I am having no luck at all if anyone has managed to do it could they post what they did for me so I have a basic starter as it's driving me nuts I want to get to 3.0 gig from 2.4

Any help would be Appreciated.
Thanx in advance


Start by filling in all your system specs so we can make guesses based on all your components. We know you have a Q6600 and P5NE SLI, but knowing your PSU, GPU, and Cooling solution is helpful.

First reccomendation is make sure you are using BIOS 0608. 0703 is crap, and earlier versions are shaky with quad support.

Second run RAM unlinked from the CPU and set it to stock speed/timings.

Third input all your stock voltages manually (CPU, RAM, and Chipset)- Auto voltage tends to be unstable for OCs. When you start to OC, start increasing your Vcore 1-2 notches at a time should you have stability issues. I was actually able to undervolt my quad @ 1.22V (Stock VID on mine is 1.2875V).


----------



## ru7hl355

what are the stock voltages for the NB?


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Did you get the A1 revision for that EVGA board? Those are the only ones that do well OCing quads. The T1 revision gives similar quad performance as the P5NE-SLI.

I doubt Intel will accept an RMA b/c the chip won't OC- especially if it will boot at stock. I had a heck of a time getting them to take my D820 that died of delamination (heat failure).


Well I can always make something up. The company I got it from really is easy to return stuff to so I shouldn't have a problem.

I was just wondering if the issue really is the CPU. I am a little new to OC'ing but I have many times and I don't want to feel crazy. Is there any proof of chips that won't OC a single bit? That seems to be the real issue here which is driving me nuts.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


what are the stock voltages for the NB?


ya know, i don't actually know. probably it depends on the stock FSB of the chip you're running. It's probably the lowest setting for 1066 and below, but I wouldn't be surprised if 1.3x was stock for the 1333FSB chips.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Well I can always make something up. The company I got it from really is easy to return stuff to so I shouldn't have a problem.

I was just wondering if the issue really is the CPU. I am a little new to OC'ing but I have many times and I don't want to feel crazy. Is there any proof of chips that won't OC a single bit? That seems to be the real issue here which is driving me nuts.


I've never heard of it, but that doesn't mean it's not impossible. If you DO have the A1 revision of the 680i board I'd say it's pretty damn likely to be the chip. If not...then it's still a little ambiguous.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


ya know, i don't actually know. probably it depends on the stock FSB of the chip you're running. It's probably the lowest setting for 1066 and below, but I wouldn't be surprised if 1.3x was stock for the 1333FSB chips.

I've never heard of it, but that doesn't mean it's not impossible. If you DO have the A1 revision of the 680i board I'd say it's pretty damn likely to be the chip. If not...then it's still a little ambiguous.


Here is the part #: 122-CK-NF68-A1

Guessing it's an A1 model since I see it right there. I am not near the board physically so this is all I got. So I would assume the CPU is a POS. Ahh well, penryn should be coming out soon I can hold off until then =)


----------



## Perry

Ok...SLI is getting the best of me.

According to this (http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=5) two 8800's running in SLI at x8 beat or are just barely beaten by two 8800's on a board where both cards run x16.

So it seems to me that the PCI-E interface doesn't even come close to bottle knecking at 8x so picking up a 2nd card wouldn't be holding my system back.

...right?


----------



## Christiaan

It won't hold back 8600GTS in SLI, that's for sure.


----------



## Perry

I'd like to get an 8800GT but sadly I don't think that'll happen due to the state of my current financial affairs...houses are f'ing expensive!

Now what would be a better use of what money I can free up? A low budget C2D like an E4x00 or another 8600GTS?

Keep in mind the only games that I plan on playing are Lord Of The Rings Online (that's going to be my #1 for a loooooong time since I'm hooked), Lost Planet and Gears Of War when it comes out.

An E4400 on directcanada.com would run $136 and a second 8600GTS would run $182.


----------



## Asce

With a vcore of about 1.38 and ambients of 19Â°c im idleing at 21Â°c. How great is that.









Well back to my problems at hand, lets get back to see what is wrong with my rig.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
With a vcore of about 1.38 and ambients of 19Â°c im idleing at 21Â°c. How great is that.









Well back to my problems at hand, lets get back to see what is wrong with my rig.

Those look like they're 15 degrees too low. Use CoreTemp 0.95.4 and see what you've got.


----------



## fames202

well i have been overclocking my pc since i built it which was about 2 weeks ago but i hit a wall when am trying to get passed 2.9ghz and onto the 3.0's. i have tried different multipliers and i have tried the fbs at 1400mhz and the the cpu voltage at 1.38 and ill hit 3.1 it boots up fine and iut starts up but after a while my computer freezes really bad and i have to restart it. can you guys help me out and tell me what is a good set up in bios. How high should i take the memory voltage , nb and the cpu voltage?







Thank you for your time guys


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Those look like they're 15 degrees too low. Use CoreTemp 0.95.4 and see what you've got.

I believe im already using that version and with ambients of 21Â°c im only at 24Â°c


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I'd like to get an 8800GT but sadly I don't think that'll happen due to the state of my current financial affairs...houses are f'ing expensive!

Now what would be a better use of what money I can free up? A low budget C2D like an E4x00 or another 8600GTS?

Keep in mind the only games that I plan on playing are Lord Of The Rings Online (that's going to be my #1 for a loooooong time since I'm hooked), Lost Planet and Gears Of War when it comes out.

An E4400 on directcanada.com would run $136 and a second 8600GTS would run $182.


You will see better performance with a second 8600GTS than a E4400.









My opinion is to get the second 8600GTS.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Ok...SLI is getting the best of me.

According to this (http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2894&p=5) two 8800's running in SLI at x8 beat or are just barely beaten by two 8800's on a board where both cards run x16.

So it seems to me that the PCI-E interface doesn't even come close to bottle knecking at 8x so picking up a 2nd card wouldn't be holding my system back.

...right?











Just so. You won't see a bottleneck unless you're pushing a ton of bandwidth through the PCI-E, because 16x has always been way more than needed. I suspect the 8x issue would start to to show up at resolutions over 1600x1200, but I don't know that it's ever been tested directly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I'd like to get an 8800GT but sadly I don't think that'll happen due to the state of my current financial affairs...houses are f'ing expensive!

Now what would be a better use of what money I can free up? A low budget C2D like an E4x00 or another 8600GTS?

Keep in mind the only games that I plan on playing are Lord Of The Rings Online (that's going to be my #1 for a loooooong time since I'm hooked), Lost Planet and Gears Of War when it comes out.

An E4400 on directcanada.com would run $136 and a second 8600GTS would run $182.


Christiaan's probably right though, but one way to guesstimate would be to compare your 3dMark06 and your PCMark05 benchmarks. If your 3dMark06 score is more than double your PCMark score, you might do better with a better proc.... That's pretty course though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Those look like they're 15 degrees too low. Use CoreTemp 0.95.4 and see what you've got.


No...the TT and TRUE are both prefectly capable of idling at 1-2C over ambient temps.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fames202*


well i have been overclocking my pc since i built it which was about 2 weeks ago but i hit a wall when am trying to get passed 2.9ghz and onto the 3.0's. i have tried different multipliers and i have tried the fbs at 1400mhz and the the cpu voltage at 1.38 and ill hit 3.1 it boots up fine and iut starts up but after a while my computer freezes really bad and i have to restart it. can you guys help me out and tell me what is a good set up in bios. How high should i take the memory voltage , nb and the cpu voltage?







Thank you for your time guys


Try NB at 1.3x and if that doesn't work go to 1.56. Make sure your RAM voltage and timings are manually set to stock. For issues specific to this board check out the OCing guide in my sig.

Ravins been running his q6600 with stock multi at 1333 FSB at less than stock vcore. Once you make sure your NB volts are adequate etc etc, ask him for help if you're still having trouble


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Here is the part #: 122-CK-NF68-A1

Guessing it's an A1 model since I see it right there. I am not near the board physically so this is all I got. So I would assume the CPU is a POS. Ahh well, penryn should be coming out soon I can hold off until then =)


Hmm....its A1 alright, so it should be capable of some OC on that quad of yours. If you can get that Q6600 onto a P35/X38 board that would be the real test.

Just to back up on your troubleshoot, if you have not yet try these:
1) Make sure that your RAM and CPU are unlinked for the FSB. Set your RAM to stock spec and/or UNDERclock it with lower voltage. The key is getting your RAM stable at the lowest voltage possible on this board. Run MEMTEST86 overnight to check stability.
2) Set your NB voltage to 1.56V (24/7 safe) or 1.7V (testing only- not 24/7 safe). This board likes to steal power from the NB and give it to the Vdimm and Vcore when they are cranked up (hence getting the lowest Vdimm in step 1, and lowest Vcore in step 3) Also keep an eye on the NB temps- 55-60C is the max safe range, IMO over 50C is high. Hot NB=unstable system.
3) Try starting your Vcore low (maybe 1.25ish) and turn it up ~0.05V each boot until you can get into Windoze and benchmark. Increase Vcore slowly once you can boot until benchmarks are stable. IMO 1.45V (with or without +100mV) should be plenty of juice to run at the 1333FSB on a quad (B3s included). Sometimes too much voltage is as bad as not enough.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Those look like they're 15 degrees too low. Use CoreTemp 0.95.4 and see what you've got.


Idle temps don't count for squat in my book- unless they are high and indicate a bad HSF mount. 21C is what my Quad idles with room temp ~68F

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fames202*


well i have been overclocking my pc since i built it which was about 2 weeks ago but i hit a wall when am trying to get passed 2.9ghz and onto the 3.0's. i have tried different multipliers and i have tried the fbs at 1400mhz and the the cpu voltage at 1.38 and ill hit 3.1 it boots up fine and iut starts up but after a while my computer freezes really bad and i have to restart it. can you guys help me out and tell me what is a good set up in bios. How high should i take the memory voltage , nb and the cpu voltage?







Thank you for your time guys


3.0 aint to shabby on this board with a quad. First thing I see is you have 3Gbs RAM.....Odd number....Is that 3 sticks? If so that may be your problem right there. The more stix you have, the more difficult it is to get your RAM stable when OCd.

For troubleshooting see the top part of this post!

Edit: I also see you have 1108 listed as your BIOS. Flash to 0608


----------



## Christiaan

What about the A2 revision of the board Ravin?

That's what CPU-Z says I have.

Good, bad for quads?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
What about the A2 revision of the board Ravin?

That's what CPU-Z says I have.

Good, bad for quads?

I was referring to the EVGA 680i board being A1 vs the earlier T1. I haven not seen a comparison for the P5NE 650i


----------



## TriBeCa

so, my OC is being real weird.

sig OC is fine, stable, all good.

If I tighten to 4-3-3-3 (7 tRC) RAM timings...I get video corruption. no voltage changes, no nothing. i tightened the timings and left the system folding. it ran fine for about 8 hours, then the video corrupted as I described before (starts with flickering, then displaying some pixels in the wrong place, then eventually the video output freezes). I was VNC'd into the machine from my laptop at the time, so I checked that, and everything was fine. It's just a problem in the video output--not rendering.

any ideas? I mean...***? i guess heat would make sense, but the GFX card wasn't even at 60C (i checked speedfan through the VNC connection). and there was no change in voltages, so the tighter timings shouldn't have effected anything....

anyway. I'm gonna fold with my sig OC for a while just to make sure this isn't a general issue I just happen to have never seen with my sig settings or below, but have now seen with tighter RAM timings or at 3.4GHz and crazy high (>1.59) vcore.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
If I tighten to 4-3-3-3 (7 tRC) RAM timings.

Thats it right there.....too tight. The last 2 timings are too low- they have to be higher than the sum of a combination of CAS and one of the other timings. Check in the ram timings link....

http://www.overclock.net/intel-memory/230910-ram-timings-guide.html

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Best RAM timings guide I've seen.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
I was referring to the EVGA 680i board being A1 vs the earlier T1. I haven not seen a comparison for the P5NE 650i









Ah, understood. My bad.


----------



## TriBeCa

those timings were fine when i was semi-stable for a week at 3.4GHz...the problem then was the CPU was unstable. yes, the guy says tRAS should be higher than the sum of tCL and tRCD, but I don't totally buy it. What I *do* buy is that tRC should be higher than the sum of tRP and tRAS...which you'll notice it is.

either way, i can't figure out why RAM instability should screw up the video output but otherwise leave the system running normally....


----------



## hometoast

Here's my report:
I was able to run an hour of orthos at
375 x7
1.392 vcore
1.5 nb
ram at 5-5-5-18
Temps ran 40 idle 57-58 load. Part of this is that I had Qfan enabled -- it wasn't anywhere near max rpm.

I bumped it to 8x multi and it wouldn't boot. Would you add more vcore at this point?

I reset back to stock (I want to get on to TF2 tonight!) and actually pushed the vcore to 1.2000 + .100 and my temps are still 38 idle with the fan at 2700 rpm. I think I'll try reseating the AC this weekend (friend's got my tube of as5).


----------



## TriBeCa

nice. more vcore should let you boot at 375*8. It may seem like those are high temps, but your chip is actually rated up to 72C, so you've got at least 10C to play with. and yeah...when you're OC'd I wouldn't mess with fan controllers...just keep everything on max. Some people like quiet, but I don't much care, so I just go all out with it to make sure my chip is as cool as it can be.


----------



## hometoast

Well I'm running Small FFTs in Orthos right now at 58C. I bumped vcore to 1.41 (total) and get droop to 1.344 under load.

My AC7 is ridiculously quiet so the full 2700 rpm is nice.

I'm switching to a Blend test and going to bed. (yay!)


----------



## ru7hl355

having problems OC'ing to 3ghz

i have tried changing the vcore all the way upto 1.33v! i get blue screens saying memory management or page file error.

running at 1333.

dont know why its happening i can get to 2.7ghz on 1.625 vcore!

any ideas? i have my memory set to 2.178v(safe to 2.2 supposedly:S)

NB is set to auto as i dont know the standard voltage

Aany help appreciated.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Well I'm running Small FFTs in Orthos right now at 58C. I bumped vcore to 1.41 (total) and get droop to 1.344 under load.

My AC7 is ridiculously quiet so the full 2700 rpm is nice.

I'm switching to a Blend test and going to bed. (yay!)

If you do the pencil mod on this board, 1. its will get rid of some/most of the vdroop 2. you can drop the vcore down a notch or two. Just dont do a me and overvolt it (im too lazy to redo it
 






)


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


If you do the pencil mod on this board, 1. its will get rid of some/most of the vdroop 2. you can drop the vcore down a notch or two. Just dont do a me and overvolt it (im too lazy to redo it







)


The pencil mod scares me!







And I'd have to go find me multi-tester. What I REALLY need to do is order that Thermaltake Spirit II for my NB.

So I was able to run last night and Orhos died with a rounding error after 2 hours. I was never over 57C -- but if I want more vcore I'll have to get my cooling straightened out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*

NB is set to auto as i dont know the standard voltage


 We *think* its 1.3 -- I've got mine at 1.5 and the HS is toasty.


----------



## suck-eye

I am currently running @ 3.20 Ghz
400 x 8
Memory @ 800 (4-4-4-12-2T)
NB @ 1.5...V (I have a fan on it)
Vcore @ 1.45 (total)
My load temp is a little too warm though (65 after running orthos for 10 mins)


----------



## Christiaan

You are on stock cooling.








Maybe get a Zalman 9700 to cool that puppy.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Well I'm running Small FFTs in Orthos right now at 58C. I bumped vcore to 1.41 (total) and get droop to 1.344 under load.

My AC7 is ridiculously quiet so the full 2700 rpm is nice.

I'm switching to a Blend test and going to bed. (yay!)


that amount of droop is normal.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


The pencil mod scares me!







And I'd have to go find me multi-tester. What I REALLY need to do is order that Thermaltake Spirit II for my NB.

So I was able to run last night and Orhos died with a rounding error after 2 hours. I was never over 57C -- but if I want more vcore I'll have to get my cooling straightened out.

We *think* its 1.3 -- I've got mine at 1.5 and the HS is toasty.


no...you have ~10C before you have to stop raising temps. the e6750 is rated at 72C. people who stop juicing up their C2Ds at 60 have chips like mine, which are rated at 61.4C. go ahead and add more vcore









Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


having problems OC'ing to 3ghz

i have tried changing the vcore all the way upto 1.33v! i get blue screens saying memory management or page file error.

running at 1333.

dont know why its happening i can get to 2.7ghz on 1.625 vcore!

any ideas? i have my memory set to 2.178v(safe to 2.2 supposedly:S)

NB is set to auto as i dont know the standard voltage

Aany help appreciated.


i'm confused. 1.33v is not very high, and it's quite possible you'll need more to achieve 3GHz. and 1.625 is wayyyyy to much vcore for 2.7GHz (or really anything unless you've got some seriously intense cooling...certainly I wouldn't go that high on air).

what's stock for your memory? you should really be trying to run your memory at the minimum possible vdimm. and make sure your memory is manually set to stock timings, you can get crazy instability if you leave the board to autodetect the timings.


----------



## Evostance

Ive got my CPU overclocked at 3.3ghz. Im not sure what all these figures mean but ill post them for you to tell me lol. These were measured with ASUS Probe 2

Vcore = 1.52v
+3.3 = 3.31v
+5 = 4.89v
+12 = 11.84v
CPU = 36c
MB = 30c
CPU fan = 1744rpm


----------



## suck-eye

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


You are on stock cooling.








Maybe get a Zalman 9700 to cool that puppy.


was considering the same thing


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evostance*


Ive got my CPU overclocked at 3.3ghz. Im not sure what all these figures mean but ill post them for you to tell me lol. These were measured with ASUS Probe 2

Vcore = 1.52v
+3.3 = 3.31v
+5 = 4.89v
+12 = 11.84v
CPU = 36c
MB = 30c
CPU fan = 1744rpm


Download coretemp. ASUSprobe reports the CPU temp from a sensor located in the center of the 775 socket, while coretemp gives you readings straight off the CPU die. For what I have seen 36C in ASUSprobe equates to about 46C in coretemp. The difference between the two temperatures increases as temperature increases- 39C reads about 52C for me, 42C reads about 60C.

I would trust ASUS for the NB/MB temps- there has been some speculation about where the sensor is- some say NB, some SB, some say between the PCI slots, others say it's an average of NB and SB. IMO its on the NB and NB only, given the temp drop when I reseated with AS5.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *suck-eye*


was considering the same thing


I'll vouch for the 9700. It dropped my quad load temps 15C (high fan) and 10C (low fan). With the fan on low my quad runs ~42C.

In another note- I unplugged all my loud @55 80mm fans. CPU temp remained stable, NB and GPU increased +6c. So worth the AS5 remounts to have a 18dB box.


----------



## Christiaan

Ravin, do you think I'll get a worthwhile temp drop on my 805 to go from this 9500 to the 9700? I will be popping in a quad sometime later though. But it be nice to get the better cooler on so long.


----------



## RyanH

Hello all!

Currently running my P5N-E /w E6600 at 1700 FSB, 3.4 GHZ CPU, and ~728 Memory (667 OCZ, 2GB)

I have 2 questions I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.

1. CPU overclocking. I am using a Tuniq Tower that is keeping my CPU temps quite low. I haven't seen my temp go over 50c after gaming or running prime. I idle at 38-40c. I think I can push this CPU higher, but I am afraid to increase my VCORE any higher. It is currently at 1.525 /w the +100 mv offset enabled. I just read about the droop issue, and I have watched the VCORE fluctuate in PCProbe (usually it is reported at about 1.52). As long as my temps stay < 60c is it "safe" to up the vcore some more and see how much higher I can go?

2. Memory. I would like to get some memory that will allow me to increase the memory clock. I tried some Mushkin PC8500... and for a couple hours it worked fine at 1066 (and benchmarked some amazing scores), but the memory started degrading and eventually I couldnâ€™t even post with it. I had to RMA it. I did not manipulate my memory voltage, so hopefully the failure wasn't my fault. Anyone out there have experience with some PC8500 that works well with this board? I am leaning towards Corsair Dominator PC8500. Are there any inherent issues with running this board with a 1066 memory clock? Should I aim for around 800 instead?

If any part of my post comes off as ignorant, I apologize, I used to be really into hardware stuff, but I have been out of it for awhile... so have to learn everything all over again.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Ravin, do you think I'll get a worthwhile temp drop on my 805 to go from this 9500 to the 9700? I will be popping in a quad sometime later though. But it be nice to get the better cooler on so long.


How long ago did you buy that 805? It should still be under the 3 year warranty. If so , I'd say stick with the 9500, order the quad, OC the hell outta that 805 and fry it and RMA it. Essintailly that's what happened to my D820- I got one in a sealed box waiting for a mobo and a better cooling solution.

Personally, I think the stock intel cooler w/AS5 did one helluva job for my quad- I never saw temps above 53C @ 333*9. Even @ 1.375 +100mV it was under 62C. The 9500 is certainly enough for a Q6600 on this board. Save your $$$ for a P35/X38 board


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I would trust ASUS for the NB/MB temps- there has been some speculation about where the sensor is- some say NB, some SB, some say between the PCI slots, others say it's an average of NB and SB. IMO its on the NB and NB only, given the temp drop when I reseated with AS5.


Are you still planning on getting a SB cooler? If so you can test pretty unequivocably when you add a cooler to the SB.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RyanH*


Hello all!

Currently running my P5N-E /w E6600 at 1700 FSB, 3.4 GHZ CPU, and ~728 Memory (667 OCZ, 2GB)

I have 2 questions I was hoping someone might be able to help me with.

1. CPU overclocking. I am using a Tuniq Tower that is keeping my CPU temps quite low. I haven't seen my temp go over 50c after gaming or running prime. I idle at 38-40c. I think I can push this CPU higher, but I am afraid to increase my VCORE any higher. It is currently at 1.525 /w the +100 mv offset enabled. I just read about the droop issue, and I have watched the VCORE fluctuate in PCProbe (usually it is reported at about 1.52). As long as my temps stay < 60c is it "safe" to up the vcore some more and see how much higher I can go?


I'm not 100% sure how to answer that. Your chip is safe from thermal failure as long as it's under 61.4C, so in that sense you have some room to play with. However, if I recall correctly intel claims that voltages on that chip (actually all quads and C2Ds) are only safe up to 1.5v and you're already at 1.625v. I don't know in a principled way why more voltage would kill the chip, but I'd be nervous about increasing your vcore any more. Actually, I would _highly_ recommend you get some heatsinks on your voltage mosfets (see page 3 of the OCing guide in my sig for a picture of where the mosfets are...vram sinks attached with thermal tape or another adhesive thermal compound will work) even at 1.625v, and try to maximize airflow over those heatsinks. Even if the temps on your chip are good the mosfets are probably getting EXTREMELY hot, and you may damage the board running that much vcore 24/7.

If you cool your mosfets and don't mind playing a little risky, then sure go ahead and increase your vcore further.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RyanH*


2. Memory. I would like to get some memory that will allow me to increase the memory clock. I tried some Mushkin PC8500... and for a couple hours it worked fine at 1066 (and benchmarked some amazing scores), but the memory started degrading and eventually I couldnâ€™t even post with it. I had to RMA it. I did not manipulate my memory voltage, so hopefully the failure wasn't my fault. Anyone out there have experience with some PC8500 that works well with this board? I am leaning towards Corsair Dominator PC8500. Are there any inherent issues with running this board with a 1066 memory clock? Should I aim for around 800 instead?


To be perfectly honest, I doubt you'll see much of a performance boost OCing your RAM clock past 1:1 timings (at 425x8=3.4GHz on your CPU, that's 850MHz on your RAM). While a higher clock speed is definately better, it usually requires loosening your timings. At one point on this rig I compared 850MHz at 4-3-3-1 (5 tRC) to 1033MHz at 5-4-5-12 (18 tRC) and equivalent vdimm and CPU OC (3.4GHz). Both RAM timings were as tight as I was able to achieve at 2.3vdimm for the specified RAM clocks. And guess what? The benchmarks for both were virtually identical. There was a 10ms boost with the faster clock in my SuperPi 1M time, but the 3dMark06 score was actually lower and the PCMark05 score was identical.

So what I'm saying is, if you're looking at Dominators...you might as well go with PC6400. Unless you're gonna be pushing close to a 500MHz FSB on your CPU the PC6400's should have no trouble overclocking at stock voltage to match your RAM clock. Corsair even sells a PC6400 kit that comes with their RAM cooler and is _stock_ at 3-4-3-9 at 2.3v. That's some sexy RAM


----------



## RyanH

Thanks a lot for the detailed answer.

I think I will leave my CPU alone. 3400 is fine... I am just being greedy.

I think I will take you up on the ram idea though. Thanks.


----------



## TriBeCa

you're welcome









do consider cooling your mosfets though, 1.625 is gonna stress them. I put these on (five on the vcore mosfets, two on the vdimm mosfets, one left over) and saw an 8-10C drop across my entire system. I'm still not sure how that happened, but it did. CPU, MB, and GPU temp sensors all started reporting between 8-10C less under load after I added the mosfet coolers. I was pushing 1.583vcore at the time.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


How long ago did you buy that 805? It should still be under the 3 year warranty. If so , I'd say stick with the 9500, order the quad, OC the hell outta that 805 and fry it and RMA it. Essintailly that's what happened to my D820- I got one in a sealed box waiting for a mobo and a better cooling solution.

Personally, I think the stock intel cooler w/AS5 did one helluva job for my quad- I never saw temps above 53C @ 333*9. Even @ 1.375 +100mV it was under 62C. The 9500 is certainly enough for a Q6600 on this board. Save your $$$ for a P35/X38 board










Haha, sneaky!

I bought it May abouts last year.
And I don't think the warranty still covers it. I lapped it!









I guess I'll save the $$$







for the Q6600.


----------



## ru7hl355

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


that amount of droop is normal.

no...you have ~10C before you have to stop raising temps. the e6750 is rated at 72C. people who stop juicing up their C2Ds at 60 have chips like mine, which are rated at 61.4C. go ahead and add more vcore









i'm confused. 1.33v is not very high, and it's quite possible you'll need more to achieve 3GHz. and 1.625 is wayyyyy to much vcore for 2.7GHz (or really anything unless you've got some seriously intense cooling...certainly I wouldn't go that high on air).

what's stock for your memory? you should really be trying to run your memory at the minimum possible vdimm. and make sure your memory is manually set to stock timings, you can get crazy instability if you leave the board to autodetect the timings.



hi sorry i ment 1.265vcore

my memory is stock at 4-5-4-15-2T set manually.

the other options below are all auto asi dont know what to set them too.


----------



## TriBeCa

manually set your vdimm to stock. look up your manufacturers spec on their website, but i think OCZ platinum's are usually 1.9v. if so, use the 1.92v setting in the BIOS.

after you've done that, set your NB to 1.39 and try to get to 3GHz. Start from 1.265 vcore and move up in .0125 or 0.025 volt steps. If that doesn't work, try again with 1.56V on the NB. If none of the that works, report back and maybe Ravin can give you a hand


----------



## jesusiscool

3.3 from 2.66, nice. you should be sweet at those voltages and temps


----------



## jesusiscool

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ru7hl355* 
hi sorry i ment 1.265vcore

my memory is stock at 4-5-4-15-2T set manually.

the other options below are all auto asi dont know what to set them too.

Hey you have the OCZ platinum ddr2 800. im looking at getting this ram, does it run cool and stable and is it any good at overclocking?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jesusiscool* 
3.3 from 2.66, nice. you should be sweet at those voltages and temps

me? actually my chip is stock at 2.13


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jesusiscool* 
Hey you have the OCZ platinum ddr2 800. im looking at getting this ram, does it run cool and stable and is it any good at overclocking?


Its soso, decent but theres better.

I can get [email protected]
and 4-4-4-12 @ 960mhz
but I haven't gone over 2.2v since lack of cooling on the ram


----------



## jesusiscool

cool as. Tribeca i was talking about the other guy with the E6750 lol


----------



## Filip_the_crusader

One quick question.

Will these work with this board? I'm building a rig in march and im trying to get some ideas for components.
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...acture=Patriot


----------



## TriBeCa

hard to say for sure. i've definately seen people around here running patriot memory on this board without problems, but if you check patriot's memory configurator the P5N-E isn't even listed, so apparently _none_ of their RAM has tested totally stable in this board. that doesn't mean that a given pair of chips won't work, it just means that Patriot isn't willing to _guarentee_ that a given RAM model is going to work in this board. if you get some and they don't work they should still accept a return within the normal timeframe (whatever NCIX's policy is), but Patriot may not accept an RMA on the RAM if it works in other boards and not this one, because it doesn't show up in their configurator for the board.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Filip_the_crusader*


One quick question.

Will these work with this board? I'm building a rig in march and im trying to get some ideas for components.
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...acture=Patriot


Well they work great in my system. But my board is really weird it _won't_ run Crucial Ballistix.


----------



## cybershark5886

Hello all,

As I can obviously see I'm a late comer here (430 pages!) but I saw this in the OP:

Quote:



The board is finnicky about RAM. Please ask here before you buy, or use from Manuf. Recc. list.


I just ordered the P5N-E with a Intel Core 2 Duo 6750 (its still shipping). I already ordered the RAM so I'm a little late to pre-check now but I ordered "OCZ Platinum Revision-2 2048MB PC6400 DDR2 800MHz Dual Channel Memory (2 x 1024MB)". Are there any know problems with those sticks? From what I've been able to ascertain from reading several forums which talked about the memory issues with this board they recommend that for 2 sticks of RAM only the black slots be used, and in more unfortunate cases the voltages additionally have to be tweaked to get them to run right. Do you think that will be the case, or should the "black slot" trick work?

Thanks,

~Josh


----------



## TriBeCa

Those were my initial RAM sticks and I ended up spending 20 hours or so fighting to get them stable before they killed 2 of the DIMM slots on the board and I had to RMA it and return that RAM.

But other people have had no trouble with them









If you want to be 100% sure that your RAM is compatible, you need to use the memory configurators on RAM manufacturers websites. If you do this for OCZ the only thing that comes up for the P5N-E is a few of their PC4200 chips (see here). This is definately conservative, because lots of people are using other OCZ RAM in this board, but the only way to be sure is to use RAM that comes up in a configurator.


----------



## cscheat

im getting ballistixs next week !!! don't scare me !!!


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:

But other people have had no trouble with them
*And the drum crash* That was reassuring.









I guess I'll just have to pray and hope it works.

P.S. I'll try to give an update when the system gets here. It'll probably keep me busy all week, since its been eons since I last constructed a system and I'm going to take my sweet time on it to make sure I don't screw anything up.

~Josh


----------



## SlyFox

Thanks everyone, this is a great thread. I recently purchased a Freezer 7 pro and AS5 (Due to recommendations from this thread). All I've have to say is wow a world of difference. Before the stock HSF had the cpu cores idling at 50C, now it's running 33C idle. Now it's time to move into some over clocking.


----------



## r0b126

Ok, right now I have been getting a relatively low 3dMarks Score, mainly due to the processor I have on my mobo.

My current system specs:

Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard
2x 1GB PC6400 DDR-2 800MHz Corsair 4-4-4-12 memory
2x eVGA GeForce 7600 GS (512MB) video cards
P4 LGA775 2.8GHz processor w/ 800MHz FSB

It was recommended that I replace this single core processor with a dual core one. The one I have been looking at on newegg is the Intel E6550. Mainly because of its price, but it starts at 2.13GHz...but it has a 1333MHz FSB

Am wondering if I should be looking for a different processor. I want optimal game performance for what I have right now, but I don't want to be spending $200+ on the processor (not in this system anyway).

From what I'd read in another forum, 3dMark06 was reported to be a thread sensitive app that will produce a score many times better than the one I got w/ that P4 if I just switch it to a dual core.

Any thoughts? Opinions? Suggestions?


----------



## brandon6199

Just make sure you update your BIOS to 0608 before you install the E6550.

Thats what I did, and its working great for me


----------



## r0b126

Gonna go with the E6750, its got nothing but amazing reviews and sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Plus a lot of success stories about upping it from 333 to 400 so that it will go 1:1 with my PC 6400 800MHz mem

edit: could still use all the advice in the world for my overclock options (starting w/ what bios to use w/ this processor)

and if anyone has a cooling suggestion (I'm using what seems like a pretty effective $11 asus CPU fan/heatsink right now)

My limitation is going to be the money I spend on the cooling. I've spent too much money on other toys recently to justify spending a lot more on the comp atm...might have to give it a few mo. before I can justify spending more on the computer (gotta keep the wife happy too =o)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


Gonna go with the E6750, its got nothing but amazing reviews and sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Plus a lot of success stories about upping it from 333 to 400 so that it will go 1:1 with my PC 6400 800MHz mem

edit: could still use all the advice in the world for my overclock options (starting w/ what bios to use w/ this processor)

and if anyone has a cooling suggestion (I'm using what seems like a pretty effective $11 asus CPU fan/heatsink right now)

My limitation is going to be the money I spend on the cooling. I've spent too much money on other toys recently to justify spending a lot more on the comp atm...might have to give it a few mo. before I can justify spending more on the computer (gotta keep the wife happy too =o)


My suggestion, I bought a Big Typhoon from Mootsfox for 25$ shipped on OCN, it works great for $/performance, so definitely look into something like that in the for sale section, theres lots of wicked deals that show up once in a while.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
Gonna go with the E6750, its got nothing but amazing reviews and sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Plus a lot of success stories about upping it from 333 to 400 so that it will go 1:1 with my PC 6400 800MHz mem

Just be aware that 400Mhz is right around the FSB hole that this board had and may not work no matter what volatage/timings you throw at it. You could post higher and at a lower multi, but 400 can be a sore sport for p5n-e owners.

And start with Bios 0608.


----------



## Mehmet

I'll hopefully be building a computer around Junauary / February time and I am thinking about using this board. I've read that alot of people have been having trouble with this board... and since this is going to be my first time building I don't want to make my life harder. So, what I want to know is whether the version 703 (I think that's the latest) BIOS will sort everything out. I plan on using a E6750 and overclocking it as much as I can (I'd like to get over 3.7ghz) would this board do the job? People have also complained about the temperatures... is this going to be a problem? If so, please recommend me another motherboard around the same price (preferably lower) with overclocking potential. I'd also like to use a thermalright ultra extreme - will the boards heatsink get in the way?

Thanks in advance


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


*And the drum crash* That was reassuring.









I guess I'll just have to pray and hope it works.

P.S. I'll try to give an update when the system gets here. It'll probably keep me busy all week, since its been eons since I last constructed a system and I'm going to take my sweet time on it to make sure I don't screw anything up.

~Josh


Just make sure that the very first thing you do is to go into the BIOS and manually set your vdimm and RAM timings to stock. And watch your windows installation like a hawk. Part of what took me so long to work out what the trouble was was that iexplorer quit (due to RAM instability) while I was using windowsupdate.com, and it completely fubared my windows installation.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


edit: could still use all the advice in the world for my overclock options (starting w/ what bios to use w/ this processor)

My limitation is going to be the money I spend on the cooling. I've spent too much money on other toys recently to justify spending a lot more on the comp atm...might have to give it a few mo. before I can justify spending more on the computer (gotta keep the wife happy too =o)


Check out the OC guide in my sig for OC options, etc etc. Use 0608 BIOS.

I'd recommend the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro, currently $20 on newegg.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mehmet*


I'll hopefully be building a computer around Junauary / February time and I am thinking about using this board. I've read that alot of people have been having trouble with this board... and since this is going to be my first time building I don't want to make my life harder. So, what I want to know is whether the version 703 (I think that's the latest) BIOS will sort everything out. I plan on using a E6750 and overclocking it as much as I can (I'd like to get over 3.7ghz) would this board do the job? People have also complained about the temperatures... is this going to be a problem? If so, please recommend me another motherboard around the same price (preferably lower) with overclocking potential. I'd also like to use a thermalright ultra extreme - will the boards heatsink get in the way?

Thanks in advance


The 0703 BIOS is a notoriously bad OCer, so stay away from that. I don't know what kind of performance people have been getting from e6750's, but 3.7GHz is more than I can get out of my e6400 at the same multi. No reason to suspect the instability is my board, though.

IMO, this is one of the best OCing boards (for C2Ds, not quads) available in its price range, although I haven't been keeping on eye on how prices are changing. If you want to push that high, this board can _probably_ take you there, but you should be prepared to replace the NB cooler (although the TRUE will fit with the stock cooler--at the very least you MUST reseat the stock cooler with AS5) and cool the mosfets (a $10 set of vram heatsinks will do). You may also have to do the pencil mod to get to your desired performance, the droop on this board is pretty killer. OC'd C2D's seem to droop somewhere between 0.06 and 0.09 under load, whereas quads will easily droop over 0.1v.


----------



## Gauvenator

I'm looking for a passive cooler for the South Bridge on this mobo. The Thermalright HR-05-SLI has already been suggested, but is there any other cooler that is cheaper?

Just a small heatsink that I can just stick on top without mobo removal would be nice....

and it has to work with SLI.


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Anyone on here running with all four DDR2 slots filled?


----------



## Kopi

Gauve anything will do, a little something like THIS or THIS.

I have the first one, I just need some thermal tape


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


Anyone on here running with all four DDR2 slots filled?


I am.


----------



## Asce

Guys ive done it. Check my sig


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Gauve anything will do, a little something like THIS or THIS.

I have the first one, I just need some thermal tape


Kopi
The first one looks good so long as it's effective without the fan.


----------



## Mehmet

This is probably going to sound like a really stupid question... (because it probably is) but... what is pencil modding anyway? :s


----------



## Kahuna513

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mehmet*


This is probably going to sound like a really stupid question... (because it probably is) but... what is pencil modding anyway? :s


Using a graphite pencil [as graphite conducts electricity] to shade over a certain resistor on the board in order to stabilise / change the voltage running through it. 
~K


----------



## Mehmet

Aaaah right! Thanks for that


----------



## Kahuna513

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mehmet*


Aaaah right! Thanks for that










No worries, welcome to the forums


----------



## _loki_

Two questions:

I have an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro that came with the system that I purchased. Do either of the aftermarket NB heatsinks fit with it? I'm not sure because it's hard to visualize how large these NB heatsinks are. I guess I could measure dimensions around the CPU and NB heatsinks but I figured I'd ask someone here first.

If not, I guess my other option is to put new TIM as was recommended in the overclock thread?

Second question: Anyone have trouble getting the FSB faster than 1300 MHz? The highest I managed to get was 1300 but it would not boot into Windows at that speed. I tried boosting the voltage on the Vcore and NB but it has no effect. If I go to 1400+ the system won't POST at all. I have a feeling it's the RAM I'm using since it's pretty crappy. Anyways specs below:

Specs:
Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz stock (1066 FSB)
4 GB Corsair XMS2 C5 (5-5-5-12-2T stock, 1.9V)
EVGA 8800 GTS 320 MB
BIOS version: 608
600W Power Supply
etc.~

I'm not in a rush to overclock by any means. I'm just wondering why I can't it get it to go past 1200? I'm going to get some VRAM heatsinks for the Mosfets and fix up the NB core and see if it helps any... Anyways, if I can't OC that's ok too, the system runs fine as is and I'm stepping up to a 8800 GT so I'm happy.


----------



## Kopi

Question 1 is close. You might want to take a look at something like an HR-05 SLI that will stand out of your way, but I think you'll be safe with most aftermarket coolers and that heatsink.

In response to the other heatsink question, run the fan. Its silent and has a cool blue glow to it. Either will do more than fine.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
In response to the other heatsink question, run the fan. Its silent and has a cool blue glow to it. Either will do more than fine.

But will it fit a second gfx card over it? Also, how are you attaching yours? (I heard that the stock thermal tape is bad)


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_loki_*


Second question: Anyone have trouble getting the FSB faster than 1300 MHz? The highest I managed to get was 1300 but it would not boot into Windows at that speed. I tried boosting the voltage on the Vcore and NB but it has no effect. If I go to 1400+ the system won't POST at all. I have a feeling it's the RAM I'm using since it's pretty crappy. Anyways specs below:

Specs:
Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz stock (1066 FSB)
4 GB Corsair XMS2 C5 (5-5-5-12-2T stock, 1.9V)
EVGA 8800 GTS 320 MB
BIOS version: 608
600W Power Supply
etc.~

I'm not in a rush to overclock by any means. I'm just wondering why I can't it get it to go past 1200? I'm going to get some VRAM heatsinks for the Mosfets and fix up the NB core and see if it helps any... Anyways, if I can't OC that's ok too, the system runs fine as is and I'm stepping up to a 8800 GT so I'm happy.


The most you will OC by on the board is 1333. You may need to ask Ravin since he runs a Quad on this board.


----------



## TriBeCa

I'm pretty sure my PSU is going kaput









My sig OC was stable for a week or whatever, now I'm getting random reboots. This is the third or fourth apparently stable OC this has happened to. I keep stepping it down, but then it goes again. Once I get the first reboot, they come faster and faster until I switch to an OC that draws less power.

Ahh well...I think I'll ask my family for newegg gift certificates for xmas







I'd just go ahead and buy one but I've spent something like $600 on setting up a tropical fish tank this past month









Quote:



Originally Posted by *_loki_*


Two questions:

I have an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro that came with the system that I purchased. Do either of the aftermarket NB heatsinks fit with it? I'm not sure because it's hard to visualize how large these NB heatsinks are. I guess I could measure dimensions around the CPU and NB heatsinks but I figured I'd ask someone here first.

If not, I guess my other option is to put new TIM as was recommended in the overclock thread?

Second question: Anyone have trouble getting the FSB faster than 1300 MHz? The highest I managed to get was 1300 but it would not boot into Windows at that speed. I tried boosting the voltage on the Vcore and NB but it has no effect. If I go to 1400+ the system won't POST at all. I have a feeling it's the RAM I'm using since it's pretty crappy. Anyways specs below:

Specs:
Q6600 @ 2.4 GHz stock (1066 FSB)
4 GB Corsair XMS2 C5 (5-5-5-12-2T stock, 1.9V)
EVGA 8800 GTS 320 MB
BIOS version: 608
600W Power Supply
etc.~

I'm not in a rush to overclock by any means. I'm just wondering why I can't it get it to go past 1200? I'm going to get some VRAM heatsinks for the Mosfets and fix up the NB core and see if it helps any... Anyways, if I can't OC that's ok too, the system runs fine as is and I'm stepping up to a 8800 GT so I'm happy.


Yeah, 1300 is probably getting close to your cap on this board. Is your memory unlinked when you're OCing? If so, it shouldn't be holding you back as long as you set everything to stock manually.

Also...which aftermarket NB HS's are you referring to?

Also, what vNB and vcore are you using?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


But will it fit a second gfx card over it? Also, how are you attaching yours? (I heard that the stock thermal tape is bad)


Oh yeah its only about 1" or 1 1/2" tall so that should be NP. I dont have mine because I bought it used and don't have a way to mount it...i need thermal tape.


----------



## Gauvenator

hmm...I found this thermal tape

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/37..._148_0012.html

But is frozencpu.com good?


----------



## Gametrader101

What can I do, buy, or install to lower my cpu and mobo temps? Recently added case fans but didnt help much like 1-2C lower. Its idling at 42C cpu and 40C mobo on asus probe with Qfan controller enabled.


----------



## hometoast

@Gametrader101: What are you temps under load? What is the room/ambient temp? Get some cooling that's not stock! Tuniq Tower and Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 are both highly recommended in this thread. 
Also, Tribeca added some Zalman VGA self-stick heat sinks to his mofsets and that helped him a great deal.


----------



## Gametrader101

When I play Crysis demo cpu temp climbs towards 48C or so.


----------



## Gametrader101

How much temp difference did you see after you installed the AC 7pro?


----------



## TriBeCa

sounds to me like you're using ASUS Probe to monitor temps, which is a bad plan. That CPU temp is effectively meaningless...use the most recent version of speedfan or coretemp, as they'll report the tempurature of the processor cores themselves--that's what you need to be paying attention to. i don't know what the difference in temp between the CPU and core temps tends to be on a quad, but I'm guessing your load temps are well in excess of 60C, maybe pushing 70. Not totall absurd for a quad, but not so great either.

the q6600 stock cooler is apparently fairly good, so i don't know how much improvement you'd see with the ac7 pro. Probably 10C or so (on the cores under load, not the CPU sensor). You could at least double that with a TRUE and a good fan, but at 3-4 times the cost. And there's a whole range of products in between. Let us know your price range and overclocking plans and we can make some better suggestions









for your NB, unless you're going to be overclocking further, just reseat it with AS5 or some other high quality thermal compound--the stock stuff ASUS uses is crap.

also, hometoast mentioned that I got great results with vram heatsinks on my mosfets, which is true, but I also think it was fairly freakish. if you're pushing a lot of vcore it's bound to help, but I wouldn't expect anyone else to see the 10C drop I got.

edit: oh yeah, and if you want to see what your temps are under REAL load, download orthos and run 10 minutes under small FFTs. that's your load temp. it'll peak ~2-3C higher sometime in the next 3-4 hours, but there's no need to run it that long just to get a read on the maximum load temp of your system, which absolutely no normal form usage will ever reach


----------



## _loki_

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Yeah, 1300 is probably getting close to your cap on this board. Is your memory unlinked when you're OCing? If so, it shouldn't be holding you back as long as you set everything to stock manually.

Also...which aftermarket NB HS's are you referring to?

Also, what vNB and vcore are you using?

Yea, my memory was unlinked and at a 1:1 ratio. I followed the guide that's stickied here but I haven't been able to get past the limit yet. I don't know what the problem is yet. I'm gonna go over the guide again and see if I can get some better results.

As for aftermarket NB heatsinks, I was looking at the ones recommended in the beginning of this thread.

And finally for vNB and vCore, the highest I had it before stopping was NB 1.4 and vCore 1.45. I'm going to try to follow some of the tips in this thread and the OC thread and see if I can't get it to stop being difficult.


----------



## TriBeCa

try 1.56 on the NB. 1.45vcore should be enough, based on Ravin's results.

also, instead of going 1:1 just leave your RAM at stock while you OC the quad.

as for NB coolers, this thread hasn't been updated in a while because dpawl hasn't been around to edit the first post. Personally, I'm a big fan of my Tt Extreme Spirit II (which for some bizarre reason Newegg doesn't list by name), and I can't really speak to other people's experiences with other coolers. I can verify that it fits (barely) with a TRUE.


----------



## Gametrader101

On the coretemp program the cores are 50 to 54C just idling. wow thats high. But the speedfan says otherwise at 36C for all in idling. Why is the coretemp higher than speedfans temp?

I dont mind spending the $60 for the zalmans or thermalright if it is that much better, but if the freezer will work similarly I would rather spend less.

Will adding a heatsink to the SB help much to lower temps?


----------



## hometoast

Latest report: (I should post in the my blog or make a build log or something i guess)

Did the pencil mod and my droop is only .02 now -- THANKS to everyone who mentioned it.

400x8 @ 1.475V (cpuZ reports 1.472)
1.5V NB
ram 2.178V 5-5-5-18 2T
I can run small FFTs like mad and I max out a 66C ish.
I get 10 seconds in to Blend and I get rounding errors.
I would say more vcore wouldn't be good thing. Should I loosen up the timings on the ram or should I post higher at 1750ish x7.

I was able to run blend at 400x6 for an hour or so.


----------



## Gametrader101

Why does the orthos test only stress the cores#0 and #1? Shouldn't it stress all 4 cores?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Latest report: (I should post in the my blog or make a build log or something i guess)

Did the pencil mod and my droop is only .02 now -- THANKS to everyone who mentioned it.

400x8 @ 1.475V (cpuZ reports 1.472)
1.5V NB
ram 2.178V 5-5-5-18 2T
I can run small FFTs like mad and I max out a 66C ish. 
I get 10 seconds in to Blend and I get rounding errors. 
I would say more vcore wouldn't be good thing. Should I loosen up the timings on the ram or should I post higher at 1750ish x7.

I was able to run blend at 400x6 for an hour or so.



Problems with blend sound like RAM problems.


----------



## aleiro

So i am getting a Q6600 in about a week and was really let down about the P5n-e not being able to OC a quad well. I found this on the Asus forum, could some one check it out and see if it works?? I sent a PM to the guy to get more info and i will follow up if i can. Also, the member is from sweden so the english isnt the best but you get the idea.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...el=P5N-E%20SLI
:Hi guys,

Sense i've seen fairly many people havening similar problems overclocking The Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard I feel obligated to share my new findings, so here goes...

The two last days I've been trying to figure out the problem behind why i couldn't overclock my new Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard. And i finally know the answer.
With the 0608 bios that is needed too support the new Intel Quad Q6600 rev. G0 i had this irritating phenomenon. Every time I rebooted my PC wouldn't start. Too fix this I had to remove the power cord and try too boot the system back up. On the second try in most cases the system booted up and continued its way on to windows. Finally in windows the system was stable and continued in this way. So the only thing now driveing me crazy was every system reboot! =p

I started updating too different bios ones again but non of them would keep the system stable well inside windows, and the boot up problem was still there. But i was determent to isolate the problem so i started to look real close on what changed after every bios update and it was a really simple change.

In bios 0703 under Advanced/CPU Configuration ASUS had made a change too have 
- CPU Internal Terminal Control too default enabled, and with this enable overclocking would fail and system would either hang or give blue screen during Prime95 torture test (with is a program for checking if your system is stable) at least this was the problem for me. But with - CPU Internal Terminal Control Disabled and the 0703 bios that doesn't suffer from the reboot problem my system is now running at 41% overclock and is very stable. More on my settings will follow for the ones interested let me know


----------



## brandon6199

Anyone have proof of running 500+ fsb on this board?

A CPU-z screen or something would be nice


----------



## aleiro

I have seen one or two reviews get 505. you can find it on google.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Anyone have proof of running 500+ fsb on this board?

A CPU-z screen or something would be nice


----------



## cybershark5886

I have a quick question about cooling for this board (or even about boards in general). I bought an extra fan kit consisting of three fans to place where I want on the chassis. Would putting a fan on the side panel blowing down onto the mobo accomplish anything or would it just mess up the air flow? There is a pre installed 120MM fan in the back on the chassis, should I just use two of those fans I have to blow from the other side of the chassis over the board toward that back fan? Is that the most efficient way to do it?

(Hopefully this board runs pretty cool on its own though, seeing how the P5N-E south bridge has adopted a "fanless/heatsinkless architecture")

Thnx in advance for the replies.


----------



## pheoxs

I've ran 475 stable on this board, never tried any higher though, once the christmas break rolls around I'm gonna work on pencil modding this board and I'll see how high I can push it.

Also, are you asking 500+ stable, or 500+ just for benchmarks?


----------



## brandon6199

just for benchmarks, because I cant post past 475...


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


just for benchmarks, because I cant post past 475...


Kk, I can try I suppose I can try next weekend, got midterms this week so not time to be fiddling.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
So i am getting a Q6600 in about a week and was really let down about the P5n-e not being able to OC a quad well. I found this on the Asus forum, could some one check it out and see if it works?? I sent a PM to the guy to get more info and i will follow up if i can. Also, the member is from sweden so the english isnt the best but you get the idea.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...el=P5N-E%20SLI
:Hi guys,

Sense i've seen fairly many people havening similar problems overclocking The Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard I feel obligated to share my new findings, so here goes...

The two last days I've been trying to figure out the problem behind why i couldn't overclock my new Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard. And i finally know the answer.
With the 0608 bios that is needed too support the new Intel Quad Q6600 rev. G0 i had this irritating phenomenon. Every time I rebooted my PC wouldn't start. Too fix this I had to remove the power cord and try too boot the system back up. On the second try in most cases the system booted up and continued its way on to windows. Finally in windows the system was stable and continued in this way. So the only thing now driveing me crazy was every system reboot! =p

I started updating too different bios ones again but non of them would keep the system stable well inside windows, and the boot up problem was still there. But i was determent to isolate the problem so i started to look real close on what changed after every bios update and it was a really simple change.

In bios 0703 under Advanced/CPU Configuration ASUS had made a change too have
- CPU Internal Terminal Control too default enabled, and with this enable overclocking would fail and system would either hang or give blue screen during Prime95 torture test (with is a program for checking if your system is stable) at least this was the problem for me. But with - CPU Internal Terminal Control Disabled and the 0703 bios that doesn't suffer from the reboot problem my system is now running at 41% overclock and is very stable. More on my settings will follow for the ones interested let me know









Forget 0703. I could not even POST past 2.6GHz with it. Stick with 0608, and if you can get cooling for your VRMs for Vcore and Vdimm. Also reseat your NB with AS5.

The stock intel cooler was adequate for me to run 333*9 all the way up to 1.35V. Great @ 1.22V, my load temps were ~52C. The Zalman dropped me to the 37-42C range.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Problems with blend sound like RAM problems.

I believe you need to run 2 instances of it.


----------



## noob-ocer

Yeah, the 0703 BIOS is a ****, I could't post with 430FSB while I had logged on to windows and run Super Pi 2M at 480FSB with the original 0307 BIOS
This board does not support OCing ram, with the Ram at 900 i could never log in to windows at FSB 450


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


I have a quick question about cooling for this board (or even about boards in general). I bought an extra fan kit consisting of three fans to place where I want on the chassis. Would putting a fan on the side panel blowing down onto the mobo accomplish anything or would it just mess up the air flow? There is a pre installed 120MM fan in the back on the chassis, should I just use two of those fans I have to blow from the other side of the chassis over the board toward that back fan? Is that the most efficient way to do it?

(Hopefully this board runs pretty cool on its own though, seeing how the P5N-E south bridge has adopted a "fanless/heatsinkless architecture")

Thnx in advance for the replies.


You defintly want to have a push/pull effect going in just about every case so one in the front and two in the back should be sufficient. That's how I'm running anyway.

As for putting one on the side of the case I have one there as well. I think it was meant to be overtop of the HSF to offer additional cooling to the processor but it's more towards the center meaning some fresh air hits the northbridge heatsink and some hits the memory DIMMs.

I feel that the best way to go about it is to take some temperature readings before installing the fans (I use Everest although add 7-8 degrees if you're monitoring your video card temperature) and then take the temperatures again after installing them in various configurations. Go with whichever configuration yields the lowest temperatures but make sure that your readings are pooched because the ambient room temperature has increased after closing a window or something like that.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


I have a quick question about cooling for this board (or even about boards in general). I bought an extra fan kit consisting of three fans to place where I want on the chassis. Would putting a fan on the side panel blowing down onto the mobo accomplish anything or would it just mess up the air flow? There is a pre installed 120MM fan in the back on the chassis, should I just use two of those fans I have to blow from the other side of the chassis over the board toward that back fan? Is that the most efficient way to do it?

(Hopefully this board runs pretty cool on its own though, seeing how the P5N-E south bridge has adopted a "fanless/heatsinkless architecture")

Thnx in advance for the replies.


blowing air down from the side panel onto the mobo does indeed help. if the fan acts as an intake, i saw ~8C improvement (not on my current CPU cooler) from adding an 80mm fan to my side panel.

however the optimal cooling arrangement will depend on the structure of your case, where your other fans are, and most importantly where your CPU cooler fan gets it's air from.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gametrader101*


Why does the orthos test only stress the cores#0 and #1? Shouldn't it stress all 4 cores?


Oops, sorry, forgot you have a quad. You'll need to use Prime95 instead of Orthos. You might have to run multiple instances of it to stress all the cores, but I'm not sure.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Latest report: (I should post in the my blog or make a build log or something i guess)

Did the pencil mod and my droop is only .02 now -- THANKS to everyone who mentioned it.

400x8 @ 1.475V (cpuZ reports 1.472)
1.5V NB
ram 2.178V 5-5-5-18 2T
I can run small FFTs like mad and I max out a 66C ish. 
I get 10 seconds in to Blend and I get rounding errors. 
I would say more vcore wouldn't be good thing. Should I loosen up the timings on the ram or should I post higher at 1750ish x7.

I was able to run blend at 400x6 for an hour or so.


I wouldn't loosen RAM (those are stock timings you're on, right?)...actually if you can, see if you can reduce the vdimm.

Try 1650 with 1:1 FSB:RAM if you can't get 1600 stable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gametrader101*


On the coretemp program the cores are 50 to 54C just idling. wow thats high. But the speedfan says otherwise at 36C for all in idling. Why is the coretemp higher than speedfans temp?

I dont mind spending the $60 for the zalmans or thermalright if it is that much better, but if the freezer will work similarly I would rather spend less.

Will adding a heatsink to the SB help much to lower temps?


You sure you're looking at the right sensors? Should be named core0 core1 core2 core3.

The thermalright _is_ that much better. Probably at least a 10C difference over the AF7Pro, very likely more. At stock settings, the TRUE should have you idling at 1-2C over your ambient room temps at max, and (at stock) you should only gain 6-8C over that when you load it.

Remember though that the TRUE also needs a 120mm fan to be purchased seperately.


----------



## cybershark5886

Thanks for the advice with the fans Perry & TriBeCa. That helps. I'll be sure to experiment with placing them in various positions to test temperature difference.

~Josh


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I wouldn't loosen RAM (those are stock timings you're on, right?)...actually if you can, see if you can reduce the vdimm.

Try 1650 with 1:1 FSB:RAM if you can't get 1600 stable.


stock is 4-4-4-12, 2.2V. I'll give it a try tonight.


----------



## TriBeCa

in that case, try stock timings at 400 FSB before you do anything else


----------



## Kerack

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Hmm....its A1 alright, so it should be capable of some OC on that quad of yours. If you can get that Q6600 onto a P35/X38 board that would be the real test.

Just to back up on your troubleshoot, if you have not yet try these:
1) Make sure that your RAM and CPU are unlinked for the FSB. Set your RAM to stock spec and/or UNDERclock it with lower voltage. The key is getting your RAM stable at the lowest voltage possible on this board. Run MEMTEST86 overnight to check stability.
2) Set your NB voltage to 1.56V (24/7 safe) or 1.7V (testing only- not 24/7 safe). This board likes to steal power from the NB and give it to the Vdimm and Vcore when they are cranked up (hence getting the lowest Vdimm in step 1, and lowest Vcore in step 3) Also keep an eye on the NB temps- 55-60C is the max safe range, IMO over 50C is high. Hot NB=unstable system.
3) Try starting your Vcore low (maybe 1.25ish) and turn it up ~0.05V each boot until you can get into Windoze and benchmark. Increase Vcore slowly once you can boot until benchmarks are stable. IMO 1.45V (with or without +100mV) should be plenty of juice to run at the 1333FSB on a quad (B3s included). Sometimes too much voltage is as bad as not enough.

Seemed to work! I got it OC'ing as normal now. It seems the BIOS is off quite a bit from what I manually set the voltage to but the NB and VCore is set and working. One question I have though considering the temps. I run up the speed to about 25% higher unlinked and I noticed big differences in temps between 4 programs. Here is the data:

Running Orthos-
SensorView: 53 (Only a single temp)
TAT: 58-51 (shows two temps)
CoreTemp: 42-49-46-48 (All four cores show)
NVidia Monitor: 57 (Only a single temp)

Now, which should I trust because CoreTemp shows all cores but is way lower by almost 10 degrees almost 15 at some points. Also, this is funky, what Idle Coretemp is higher than under full load. Is this due to fan speed not kicking in?

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kerack* 
Now, which should I trust because CoreTemp shows all cores but is way lower by almost 10 degrees almost 15 at some points. Also, this is funky, what Idle Coretemp is higher than under full load. Is this due to fan speed not kicking in?

Are those load temps? CoreTemp 0.95.4 was supposed to fix the detection of TJunction, but my friends e2180 (and it looks like yours) are 15 deg too low. I used speedfan and manually set the 15C offset in the config.


----------



## aleiro

New bios (8.01) on asus ftp site.
enjoy

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/socket775/P5N-E%20SLI

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...20SLI/0801.zip


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Are those load temps? CoreTemp 0.95.4 was supposed to fix the detection of TJunction, but my friends e2180 (and it looks like yours) are 15 deg too low. I used speedfan and manually set the 15C offset in the config.


Yea those are all load temps. The other sensor programs show normal when I unload the CPU they go down. CoreTemp likes to go up??

Speedfan was not working very well on my PC. It wouldn't show any temps at all. What would you suggest on keeping as a temp identifier.


----------



## aleiro

use CPUCool
http://www.cpufsb.de/

best program i have found.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Yea those are all load temps. The other sensor programs show normal when I unload the CPU they go down. CoreTemp likes to go up??

Speedfan was not working very well on my PC. It wouldn't show any temps at all. What would you suggest on keeping as a temp identifier.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


New bios (8.01) on asus ftp site.
enjoy



Quote:



Originally Posted by *0801.txt*

1. Fix system hangs when using Razer Copperhead USB Mouse.
2. Improve compatibility with Creative X-Fi sound card.


Is that all they really changed?


----------



## aleiro

I hope not i am going to try it later tonight.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Is that all they really changed?


----------



## Asce

I may at last flash my BIOS. Im still on 0307.

Just checked the Asus website and it doesnt have it on there atm.


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


use CPUCool
http://www.cpufsb.de/

best program i have found.


I will give that a try. Hopefully it will give me an accurate reading or at least show me which ones I am using isn't correct. Thanks man.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Running Orthos-
SensorView: 53 (Only a single temp)
TAT: 58-51 (shows two temps)
CoreTemp: 42-49-46-48 (All four cores show)
NVidia Monitor: 57 (Only a single temp)

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.



I'd go with Coretemp- it reads straight off the CPU die. If it displays a Tjunction of 100C you have the right version, if it says Tjunction is 85C then add 15C to your temps and get the latest version of coretemp.

Don't use TAT, it was specifically written for Pentium M chips and not accurate for C2D, C2Q, or any other Pentium (1, 2, 3, 4, D, dual core E2xxx series).

I'm not sure about Sensorview, never used it. The Nvidia and Asus tools measure a sensor placed in the center of the 775 socket under the chip- usually they read lower than other programs, but may read high if the back side of your MB is insulated or mounted very close to the case (there should be about 1/4" standoff from the case to the MB).


----------



## Kerack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I'd go with Coretemp- it reads straight off the CPU die. If it displays a Tjunction of 100C you have the right version, if it says Tjunction is 85C then add 15C to your temps and get the latest version of coretemp.

Don't use TAT, it was specifically written for Pentium M chips and not accurate for C2D, C2Q, or any other Pentium (1, 2, 3, 4, D, dual core E2xxx series).

I'm not sure about Sensorview, never used it. The Nvidia and Asus tools measure a sensor placed in the center of the 775 socket under the chip- usually they read lower than other programs, but may read high if the back side of your MB is insulated or mounted very close to the case (there should be about 1/4" standoff from the case to the MB).


Thanks for the information! I would assume coretemp would read correctly since it shows all four cores in action but they read much lower. It does show the tjunction at 100 degrees so I guess I have to correct version. Thanks I will base my OC'ing on this program. I will compare with CPUCool as well, won't hurt.


----------



## Kopi

Heads up guys, bios flashing is weird on this board.

Dont be afraid to use Winflash, I used it and it worked great. I was pleasantly surprised!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kerack*


Thanks for the information! I would assume coretemp would read correctly since it shows all four cores in action but they read much lower. It does show the tjunction at 100 degrees so I guess I have to correct version. Thanks I will base my OC'ing on this program. I will compare with CPUCool as well, won't hurt.


You can change the polling interval for coretemp in the options section. Default is 1000ms (1 second) but it can be tweaked to refresh more quickly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Heads up guys, bios flashing is weird on this board.

Dont be afraid to use Winflash, I used it and it worked great. I was pleasantly surprised!


I'll second that. I can not stess enough...*CLEAR CMOS BEFORE AND AFTER BIOS FLASHES*.

I prefer BIOS but winflashing works too.


----------



## Gauvenator

Gametrader101

You need to open Prime95. Then go into the command line and run it with the -A1 parameter. And I assume you run it with -A1 two more times to get four instances. For me (with my dual core) I do this after I've opened Prime95 once:

cd \\Downloads\\Prime95
Prime95.exe -A1

For more than 2 instances it might be different. I'm not really a command line buff, so if you're having trouble google it.


----------



## Gauvenator

I've recently purchased a different PSU (my former PSU was extremely loud) for my computer and now my computer is really quiet if I turn my Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7 down to 50% in Speedfan. According to speedfan, my idle is about 36 degrees, and load is in the 50s (I don't remember the exact number). According to AsusProbe, idle is 45 and load is about 56. The mobo is about 44-45 no matter what load.

I was wondering if it's OK for the lifespan of my computer to have temps like that, in order to have quietness. That load is very realistic for me as I use this computer to render my 3d graphics, which can entail hours or even days of 100% processor usage.


----------



## cscheat

*anyone tried the 0801 bios? hope it fixes OC problems !!!*


----------



## dac2u

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


*anyone tried the 0801 bios? hope it fixes OC problems !!!*


Didn't work well for me, my first attempt at loading windows locked up. Restarted and it wouldn't post, loaded fine with no OC. Reverted back to 0608 and it's working again.


----------



## r0b126

am using asus p5n-e mobo, 2x eVGA GeForce 7600 GS cards, and SB Live! card 24-bit

After I switched to using that sound card (all drivers / software for on-board sound removed, even removed the device from the device manager)...I started having freezing issues in WoW. I turned off sound at character and it fixed some stuff. Today I noticed a graphics mis-render. It was only 1 time that I logged in, but when I selected a person, half the avatar (the bottom) was missing and on 1 of the characters I had loaded there would be a horizontal line if I was elevated up beyond a certain Z axis.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


am using asus p5n-e mobo, 2x eVGA GeForce 7600 GS cards, and SB Live! card 24-bit

After I switched to using that sound card (all drivers / software for on-board sound removed, even removed the device from the device manager)...I started having freezing issues in WoW. I turned off sound at character and it fixed some stuff. Today I noticed a graphics mis-render. It was only 1 time that I logged in, but when I selected a person, half the avatar (the bottom) was missing and on 1 of the characters I had loaded there would be a horizontal line if I was elevated up beyond a certain Z axis.


Make sure you disable the onboard sound in the BIOS also - it could be conflicting.


----------



## aleiro

So i posted this a day or so ago anyone want to comment. Also, what kind of OC can i expect with a Q6600. I am gettting one on Fri and if i cant get good results i am gonna replace the mobo. Last, anyone have dead spots in the FSB I was running 3.0ghz (375fsb) stable but couldnt get 334-360 to post. I only have stock cooling but i was idle at 36C @ 1.34v.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


So i am getting a Q6600 in about a week and was really let down about the P5n-e not being able to OC a quad well. I found this on the Asus forum, could some one check it out and see if it works?? I sent a PM to the guy to get more info and i will follow up if i can. Also, the member is from sweden so the english isnt the best but you get the idea.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...el=P5N-E%20SLI
:Hi guys,

Sense i've seen fairly many people havening similar problems overclocking The Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard I feel obligated to share my new findings, so here goes...

The two last days I've been trying to figure out the problem behind why i couldn't overclock my new Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard. And i finally know the answer.
With the 0608 bios that is needed too support the new Intel Quad Q6600 rev. G0 i had this irritating phenomenon. Every time I rebooted my PC wouldn't start. Too fix this I had to remove the power cord and try too boot the system back up. On the second try in most cases the system booted up and continued its way on to windows. Finally in windows the system was stable and continued in this way. So the only thing now driveing me crazy was every system reboot! =p

I started updating too different bios ones again but non of them would keep the system stable well inside windows, and the boot up problem was still there. But i was determent to isolate the problem so i started to look real close on what changed after every bios update and it was a really simple change.

In bios 0703 under Advanced/CPU Configuration ASUS had made a change too have 
- CPU Internal Terminal Control too default enabled, and with this enable overclocking would fail and system would either hang or give blue screen during Prime95 torture test (with is a program for checking if your system is stable) at least this was the problem for me. But with - CPU Internal Terminal Control Disabled and the 0703 bios that doesn't suffer from the reboot problem my system is now running at 41% overclock and is very stable. More on my settings will follow for the ones interested let me know


----------



## hometoast

new report:

Code:


Code:


fps   mem  vcore(all not incl the +100mV)
1600 800   1.375  post - fail Blend orthos after 10 s
1650 825   1.387  no post
1650 825   1.387  no post
1650 800   1.387  no post
1680 800   1.387  no post
1720 860   1.387  no post
1700 850   1.387  no post
1700 800   1.387  no post
1700 800   1.387  no post w/ loose (5-5-5-18 timings)

All vdimm 2.178 and tried multi 8 and tried multi 6 on the last few.

so, uh,







?


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


Didn't work well for me, my first attempt at loading windows locked up. Restarted and it wouldn't post, loaded fine with no OC. Reverted back to 0608 and it's working again.


wow, really **** bios update... now we all have to wait for couple of months for a better bios.... ASUS ! please give us the best bios for OC !!!!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I've recently purchased a different PSU (my former PSU was extremely loud) for my computer and now my computer is really quiet if I turn my Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7 down to 50% in Speedfan. According to speedfan, my idle is about 36 degrees, and load is in the 50s (I don't remember the exact number). According to AsusProbe, idle is 45 and load is about 56. The mobo is about 44-45 no matter what load.

I was wondering if it's OK for the lifespan of my computer to have temps like that, in order to have quietness. That load is very realistic for me as I use this computer to render my 3d graphics, which can entail hours or even days of 100% processor usage.


those temps should be fine

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dac2u*


Didn't work well for me, my first attempt at loading windows locked up. Restarted and it wouldn't post, loaded fine with no OC. Reverted back to 0608 and it's working again.


you tried going straight in with your old OC? kinda asking for trouble imo....

a proper test would be to start again from stock and work your way up. i know it's a ton of work, but i don't think anyone should read this as a death knell for the 08xx bios (at least not yet)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


am using asus p5n-e mobo, 2x eVGA GeForce 7600 GS cards, and SB Live! card 24-bit

After I switched to using that sound card (all drivers / software for on-board sound removed, even removed the device from the device manager)...I started having freezing issues in WoW. I turned off sound at character and it fixed some stuff. Today I noticed a graphics mis-render. It was only 1 time that I logged in, but when I selected a person, half the avatar (the bottom) was missing and on 1 of the characters I had loaded there would be a horizontal line if I was elevated up beyond a certain Z axis.


what PCI slot is your sound card in? funny thing, but many SB cards don't like being in the top PCI slot (excluding PCI-E slots of course). try moving the card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


So i posted this a day or so ago anyone want to comment. Also, what kind of OC can i expect with a Q6600. I am gettting one on Fri and if i cant get good results i am gonna replace the mobo. Last, anyone have dead spots in the FSB I was running 3.0ghz (375fsb) stable but couldnt get 334-360 to post. I only have stock cooling but i was idle at 36C @ 1.34v.


yeah, there's an FSB hole in the 650i chipset. seems to be a little different for everyone, but 334-360 is really low. mine is 375-400, and that seems to be low compared to what others see.

as for disabling the internal thermal control BIOS option...might be worth trying. i don't pretend to understand exactly how it works, but I believe it's die throttling to prevent overheating. personally, i wouldn't touch it unless you're really not concerned about overheating your chip.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


new report:

Code:


Code:


fps   mem  vcore(all not incl the +100mV)
1600 800   1.375  post - fail Blend orthos after 10 s
1650 825   1.387  no post
1650 825   1.387  no post
1650 800   1.387  no post
1680 800   1.387  no post
1720 860   1.387  no post
1700 850   1.387  no post
1700 800   1.387  no post
1700 800   1.387  no post w/ loose (5-5-5-18 timings)

All vdimm 2.178 and tried multi 8 and tried multi 6 on the last few.

so, uh,







?


could be you're in your FSB hole. try pushing past 1800, in 20 FSB steps. keep RAM at stock throughout.

also, what was your vcore when stable at lower than 1600?

also, what's your NB at? i'm hoping 1.56...otherwise up it to that. if it is 1.56, you might try again with it at 1.75...not to run it 24/7, just to see if it'll post.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


could be you're in your FSB hole. try pushing past 1800, in 20 FSB steps. keep RAM at stock throughout.

also, what was your vcore when stable at lower than 1600?

also, what's your NB at? i'm hoping 1.56...otherwise up it to that. if it is 1.56, you might try again with it at 1.75...not to run it 24/7, just to see if it'll post.


vcore was 1.35-1.38 +100mV.
Roger, NB at 1.5. I'll try pushing past 1720 at 6X


----------



## 455buick

Hi folks,

Ok, I've been reading about the pencil mod on several forums and this one as well. There seems to be two pictures used and two different resistors penciled. One just below the cpu fan plug and another down even further...

Which is it??? I'll be putting my new Thermalright Ultima 90i heatsink on tomorrow and would like to try this mod for my Quad...

Do you know the correct pictures and resistor to pencil??

Thanks in advance,


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *455buick*


Which is it??? I'll be putting my new Thermalright Ultima 90i heatsink on tomorrow and would like to try this mod for my Quad... 
Do you know the correct pictures and resistor to pencil??
Thanks in advance, 


http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/800...ncilmodvi2.jpg
is the one I did and my results were like this:

before: Idle 1.488 Load 1.398
after : Idle 1.488 Load 1.472


----------



## 455buick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/800...ncilmodvi2.jpg
is the one I did and my results were like this:

before: Idle 1.488 Load 1.398
after : Idle 1.488 Load 1.472


Hi hometoast,

Thanks!! I will try it, and let you know how it goes...

Take care,


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


yeah, there's an FSB hole in the 650i chipset. seems to be a little different for everyone, but 334-360 is really low. mine is 375-400, and that seems to be low compared to what others see.


Don't forget he's looking @ using a quad- To date I can't get past the 350fsb with it, and I know that this board can go higher with a c2D.

Of course then, I have not tested out all the new mods yet either, so I cant be too sure.....


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


vcore was 1.35-1.38 +100mV.
Roger, NB at 1.5. I'll try pushing past 1720 at 6X


Results: (not good)
FSBs tried: 1740,1760,1780,1800,1820
each at: vcore 1.375, 1.393 w/ NB at 1.5
and also at: vcore 1.387 w/ NB at 1.7

none of these settings posted. I had to hit the reset button on each test to enter that "failsafe" mode.


----------



## 455buick

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/800...ncilmodvi2.jpg
is the one I did and my results were like this:

before: Idle 1.488 Load 1.398
after : Idle 1.488 Load 1.472


Hey hometoast,

One more little question. I don't trust the Asus probe/temp reading at all. Is there a good third party program that you or others use for the P5N-E??

BTW - I'll check my Vdrop a little later. Right now I'm happy that the Quad is running...

Take care,


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *455buick*


Hey hometoast,

One more little question. I don't trust the Asus probe/temp reading at all. Is there a good third party program that you or others use for the P5N-E??

BTW - I'll check my Vdrop a little later. Right now I'm happy that the Quad is running...

Take care, 


http://overclock.net/downloads
CoreTemp 0.95.4 and Speedfan. CoreTemp's your best bet.


----------



## dac2u

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
you tried going straight in with your old OC? kinda asking for trouble imo....

a proper test would be to start again from stock and work your way up. i know it's a ton of work, but i don't think anyone should read this as a death knell for the 08xx bios (at least not yet)

No no, of course not. The one thing I didn't try, which I probably should have, was clear CMOS with the jumper and remove the battery. I set the defaults before and after loading the update BIOS. I went in first with default settings, then set my ram timings, then stared to OC. I started having the same troubles I was having before I did the pencil mod and didn't feel like messing with it all over again, considering the problems I've already had with my board. I should have written it out in order, but there it is. Again, the only thing I didn't do that I should have was clear the cmos.


----------



## r0b126

ok, the RMA'd corsair 4-4-4-12 mem showed up...1gb pc6400 ddr2 800mhz

I manually went into the bios (0703 atm) and changed the timings to 4-4-4-12

below this, there are advanced memory timings that are all set to auto...I have no idea what these should be set to or if they should just be left on auto.

also, a lot of people have recommended switching to the 0608 bios for OCing which I plan to do as soon as the new processor shows up.

can someone tell me where I can get 0608 and how to properly flash it on this board?

thx for all the help


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


can someone tell me where I can get 0608 and how to properly flash it on this board?


http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post2945358

put the .bin file on a floppy.
reset your bios (short the CMOS jumper)
run the EZFlash utility from the Bios.


----------



## r0b126

can I use a usb device instead? I have no floppy drive in this machine...just cd/dvd/usb


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


can I use a usb device instead? I have no floppy drive in this machine...just cd/dvd/usb


Sure can. Haven't done it myself.


----------



## r0b126

what do you mean by short the cmos jumper?


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


what do you mean by short the cmos jumper?


Reset your BIOS to default. 
Sorry ^^^ makes much more sense


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
So i posted this a day or so ago anyone want to comment. Also, what kind of OC can i expect with a Q6600. I am gettting one on Fri and if i cant get good results i am gonna replace the mobo. Last, anyone have dead spots in the FSB I was running 3.0ghz (375fsb) stable but couldnt get 334-360 to post. I only have stock cooling but i was idle at 36C @ 1.34v.

I had a low hole at about 310 plusorminus a few mhz. After that it was fine. Then I ran into another hole one day when I was trying to see if I could make 3ghz (which it could







, I just don't want to pump so much vcore) and that hole was a little past 400.


----------



## Bonez

Oooops!

Alas, I fried my NB in the worst possible way. I changed all my internals in to an Akasa eclipse case and fitted an Akasa chipset HSF which just sticks on....and sticks on very well. All went fine until I booted my system. The heat off the NB is phenomenal even when booting up - especially when at 3.4ghz and NB at 1.56v - should have gone back to stock. My NB took exception to the HSF and rejected it in an almost violent way. There was a long beep complaint followed by system shutdown. Now it doesn't boot at all, no BIOS, no signal to monitor, no recognition of keyboard and mouse ( both are LED'd and light up as system starts up - alas no lights), no beeps etc.... the fans run though which is nice.

Any ideas on a solution, I think its dead, extinct, an ex-motherboard.......it is no more. But if you know better please tell me.

So I guess that leaves me with a decision: another P5N-E sli or another board?

What do you reckon? I've seen an Inno3D 680i for Â£114 and of course there are ABIT Fatal1ty boards or the P35s.


----------



## r0b126

that link doesn't seem to point to the 0608 bios....points to the middle of a thread somewhere...have a direct link? anyone?

thanks again for all the help


----------



## r0b126

I grabbed the All os version of 0608 off the asus website...gonna try that one


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dac2u* 
No no, of course not. The one thing I didn't try, which I probably should have, was clear CMOS with the jumper and remove the battery. I set the defaults before and after loading the update BIOS. I went in first with default settings, then set my ram timings, then stared to OC. I started having the same troubles I was having before I did the pencil mod and didn't feel like messing with it all over again, considering the problems I've already had with my board. I should have written it out in order, but there it is. Again, the only thing I didn't do that I should have was clear the cmos.

I see. So not a great result from a new bios, but not necessarily a death sentence either.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Results: (not good)
FSBs tried: 1740,1760,1780,1800,1820
each at: vcore 1.375, 1.393 w/ NB at 1.5
and also at: vcore 1.387 w/ NB at 1.7

none of these settings posted. I had to hit the reset button on each test to enter that "failsafe" mode.

Wait, now i'm confused. I thought for some reason we were talking about a hole in the 334-360 range...but that range you're posting is more like 434-460. That high on a 6750 and it may just be that the chip (or board) won't post. And on my e6400 (same multi) I need close to 1.6vcore to post in the range you're in there.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bonez* 
Oooops!

Alas, I fried my NB in the worst possible way. I changed all my internals in to an Akasa eclipse case and fitted an Akasa chipset HSF which just sticks on....and sticks on very well. All went fine until I booted my system. The heat off the NB is phenomenal even when booting up - especially when at 3.4ghz and NB at 1.56v - should have gone back to stock. My NB took exception to the HSF and rejected it in an almost violent way. There was a long beep complaint followed by system shutdown. Now it doesn't boot at all, no BIOS, no signal to monitor, no recognition of keyboard and mouse ( both are LED'd and light up as system starts up - alas no lights), no beeps etc.... the fans run though which is nice.

Any ideas on a solution, I think its dead, extinct, an ex-motherboard.......it is no more. But if you know better please tell me.

So I guess that leaves me with a decision: another P5N-E sli or another board?

What do you reckon? I've seen an Inno3D 680i for Â£114 and of course there are ABIT Fatal1ty boards or the P35s.

Have you tried putting the old NB cooler back on? Do that and rule out any electrical shorts, and I'm afraid that it has lowered the curtain and joined the choir invisible. It's bleedin' demised. It has gone to meet its maker.

But why replace it? ASUS should accept an RMA, and if you send it back with the stock heatsink on they may not even look at the NB chip directly.


----------



## r0b126

can anyone tell me what the difference in using the asus ez flash profile and the asus o.c. profile is


----------



## Bonez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
can anyone tell me what the difference in using the asus ez flash profile and the asus o.c. profile is


oc profile is for saving your OC settings.

EZ Flash is for flashing your BIOS.


----------



## r0b126

flashed it with the usb drive...was the simplest thing I've ever done. seems like the flash worked great..I reset to factory defaults both before and after the flash and then went back and manually adjusted mem timings and other bios settings to the way I wanted them...everything's running great atm...just need to wait for that cpu now....now to get off the laptop where I can start typing like something other than a complete ****** atm


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Have you tried putting the old NB cooler back on? Do that and rule out any electrical shorts, and I'm afraid that it has lowered the curtain and joined the choir invisible. It's bleedin' demised. It has gone to meet its maker.

But why replace it? ASUS should accept an RMA, and if you send it back with the stock heatsink on they may not even look at the NB chip directly.



Yeah I put the stock HS on - no joy.

My best bet for testing a short would be to run it all out outside the case but I don't think it is anyway. The power is running to the CPU HSF fine. Can't think what it would be shorting on anyway. I used the paper washers etc.

I'm not going to lie to get an RMA - it's not my spiritual path. This was my fault. So I reckon it's new mobo time. I'm not going to email ASUS and say "Now listen 'ere my good man...." etc.

So what do you think? Different board or another P5N-E


----------



## aleiro

I bet you cooked you NB. I have seen it before. Did you see smoke? If not it may be ok

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bonez* 
Oooops!

Alas, I fried my NB in the worst possible way. I changed all my internals in to an Akasa eclipse case and fitted an Akasa chipset HSF which just sticks on....and sticks on very well. All went fine until I booted my system. The heat off the NB is phenomenal even when booting up - especially when at 3.4ghz and NB at 1.56v - should have gone back to stock. My NB took exception to the HSF and rejected it in an almost violent way. There was a long beep complaint followed by system shutdown. Now it doesn't boot at all, no BIOS, no signal to monitor, no recognition of keyboard and mouse ( both are LED'd and light up as system starts up - alas no lights), no beeps etc.... the fans run though which is nice.

Any ideas on a solution, I think its dead, extinct, an ex-motherboard.......it is no more. But if you know better please tell me.

So I guess that leaves me with a decision: another P5N-E sli or another board?

What do you reckon? I've seen an Inno3D 680i for Â£114 and of course there are ABIT Fatal1ty boards or the P35s.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


I bet you cooked you NB. I have seen it before. Did you see smoke? If not it may be ok



Lol, I bet I cooked it too. No smoke that I could see...(I did have a bong on the go at the time! Just shishah tobacco though)....nor did I garnish it with fresh corriander but after about 5 seconds with no HS on it and with extra power going through it....plus making panicking beeping sounds (my machine, not me), I'm unsurprised. I have that feeling that it is very much far from ok. Probably going for a Gigabyte P35 board next and I'll probably miss the P5N as soon as I get one.

There are lots of reasons to get another one but more to get a different board.


----------



## Awesome

Alright, I'm new... I'm very interested in achieving a 3.2 Ghz (or higher) overclock on my CPU and getting my memory and FSB overclocked higher as well. I'm getting some new memory and a new graphics card soon, as well as a Zalman 9700 (or 9500) CPU cooler.

So... where do I start? Should I not even try until the new parts are here? (waiting on cash...)

Also, what kind of memory would be best? Will this board take 1066 memory?

Awesome


----------



## r0b126

ok....my next issue /sigh..can't seem to get past this one

I am using a SoundBlaster Live card. I used this card for years on my Asus P5GDC-V mobo before I upgraded to the P5N-E. It always worked great. Long story short, without the sound card on the mobo, everything runs great. With the card present, WoW starts freezing a lot. If I turn off sound in game the freezing issue goes away. I'd kinda like to keep the sound card so I can utilize my 5.1 channel surround sound while I game.

Any thoughts?


----------



## hometoast

TriBeCa said:


> Wait, now i'm confused. I thought for some reason we were talking about a hole in the 334-360 range...but that range you're posting is more like 434-460. That high on a 6750 and it may just be that the chip (or board) won't post. And on my e6400 (same multi) I need close to 1.6vcore to post in the range you're in there.
> 
> 
> 
> No. I was able to post at 1600 and at anything less but I failed to Orthos Blend immediately. I think I should just put to stock and be happy it beat the pants off my old P4
Click to expand...


----------



## aleiro

check the new bios (8.01) i posted a link a few posts up which is suppose to fix that stuff.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
ok....my next issue /sigh..can't seem to get past this one

I am using a SoundBlaster Live card. I used this card for years on my Asus P5GDC-V mobo before I upgraded to the P5N-E. It always worked great. Long story short, without the sound card on the mobo, everything runs great. With the card present, WoW starts freezing a lot. If I turn off sound in game the freezing issue goes away. I'd kinda like to keep the sound card so I can utilize my 5.1 channel surround sound while I game.

Any thoughts?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


Alright, I'm new... I'm very interested in achieving a 3.2 Ghz (or higher) overclock on my CPU and getting my memory and FSB overclocked higher as well. I'm getting some new memory and a new graphics card soon, as well as a Zalman 9700 (or 9500) CPU cooler.

So... where do I start? Should I not even try until the new parts are here? (waiting on cash...)

Also, what kind of memory would be best? Will this board take 1066 memory?

Awesome


Start with the OC guide in my sig...you may want to wait for the new parts, yeah.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok....my next issue /sigh..can't seem to get past this one

I am using a SoundBlaster Live card. I used this card for years on my Asus P5GDC-V mobo before I upgraded to the P5N-E. It always worked great. Long story short, without the sound card on the mobo, everything runs great. With the card present, WoW starts freezing a lot. If I turn off sound in game the freezing issue goes away. I'd kinda like to keep the sound card so I can utilize my 5.1 channel surround sound while I game.

Any thoughts?


Try another PCI slot. Sometimes those cards don't like being in the top slot, try the second or third one.



hometoast said:


> TriBeCa said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, now i'm confused. I thought for some reason we were talking about a hole in the 334-360 range...but that range you're posting is more like 434-460. That high on a 6750 and it may just be that the chip (or board) won't post. And on my e6400 (same multi) I need close to 1.6vcore to post in the range you're in there.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> No. I was able to post at 1600 and at anything less but I failed to Orthos Blend immediately. I think I should just put to stock and be happy it beat the pants off my old P4
> 
> 
> Well, you should either try to get stable at 1600 before moving on, or see if a jump to 1625 or 1650 will help the issue. Was that failed orthos blend while your RAM was set to loose timings? Cause if so that'd explain it.... Otherwise try fiddling with voltages.
Click to expand...


----------



## aleiro

Well to update yall on my fsb hole... i know yall care. It is 334-365ish. But 366.75 (1467fsb) is stable at 1.375v. I gotta go get a cooler (still have the stock cooler, actually i am lieing I have a stock cooler to an E6700 but i am not sure how different it is from the cooler the E6400 comes with because i bought an OEM chip) but on Orthos blend i peaked at around 45C and idle is 35C.

The main reason i am posting this update is to anyone using the +100mV, go ahead and turn that off. My Vdroop was 1.38 to 1.285v with it on and when i turned it off and manually set the voltage to 1.375 my vdroop was 1.38 to 1.328. So to conclude you will need a higher Vcore to offset your drop using +100mV. I am not trying to set records here but from what i have been able to find, the Vdroop will gradually increase with higher voltage settings.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


Alright, I'm new... I'm very interested in achieving a 3.2 Ghz (or higher) overclock on my CPU and getting my memory and FSB overclocked higher as well. I'm getting some new memory and a new graphics card soon, as well as a Zalman 9700 (or 9500) CPU cooler.

So... where do I start? Should I not even try until the new parts are here? (waiting on cash...)

Also, what kind of memory would be best? Will this board take 1066 memory?

Awesome


Check this out.

Oh, and yes the board will take 1066 memory. You may have to let it run at 800mhz and then overclock it to the factory speed but at least you know that ram can take the higher requencies.


----------



## aleiro

Dude i read your other post... send it back and say it died. Then tell them you dont understand this new fangled computer stuff. Which is true because you dont know allll there is to know (neither do i for that matter)... And if he asks you what bios you had say you think it was 11 and that should stop any further questions...lol. With the money you save go buy the other mobo and now you have two systems!!! I am all ready getting excited, you just cant tell because i am typing.

....plus making panicking beeping sounds (my machine, not me), <--- that is funny as hell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bonez*


Lol, I bet I cooked it too. No smoke that I could see...(I did have a bong on the go at the time! Just shishah tobacco though)....nor did I garnish it with fresh corriander but after about 5 seconds with no HS on it and with extra power going through it....plus making panicking beeping sounds (my machine, not me), I'm unsurprised. I have that feeling that it is very much far from ok. Probably going for a Gigabyte P35 board next and I'll probably miss the P5N as soon as I get one.

There are lots of reasons to get another one but more to get a different board.


----------



## Awesome

Woohooo I am overclocKING! LOL... I'm running stable at 2.92 Ghz, 1300 Mhz FSB, 600 Mhz RAM, 4-4-4-12-2T RAM timings.

Now I just need that cooler and some faster memory and I'll be really cooking.









Problem though: when I try to update my BIOS to 608 it says something about a BIOS downgrade not being possible because it is unsuitable for my system.


----------



## r0b126

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
check the new bios (8.01) i posted a link a few posts up which is suppose to fix that stuff.

Is there some place I can read the highlights of what this new bios fixes. Does it address this issue with the sound card causing glitches w/ the video directly? And lastly, will I be sacrificing OC options by switching off the highly recommended 0608 bios to the new 8.01?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*
Try another PCI slot. Sometimes those cards don't like being in the top slot, try the second or third one.

You're using the same mobo I am, you should know why thats not an option =o

EDIT: Tried to download the new 0801 bios, but the download points to nowhere. Will look in the html and see if it was just a typo...anyone have this bios hosted somewhere?


----------



## TriBeCa

second slot, then. sorry.

seriously, i've seen people post this exact issue before, and just moving the card resolves it. if you're having trouble with both PCI slots then you may have to fiddle with IRQs to get it working properly. but i don't know in what way, i just know that sound card issues are almost always IRQ related.


----------



## r0b126

Oh, I wasn't trying to sound insulting at all and I apologize if it came off that way.

Unfortunately, I only have 1 single PCI slot and 2x PCIE.

Also got the 0801 USA download to work. Gonna reflash with that one and see if it makes a difference. I downloaded, flashed, and tested the 0801 global bios and 5 minutes into WoW, the comp froze again with the sound turned on. Note that it only freezes in WoW with sound on...I can have sound on everywhere outside of gaming and it never has an issue. Also note that with sound off in WoW, it never freezes.


----------



## aleiro

I forgot you have the same board... go to the realtek website and get the new sound card drivers:

http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...Audio%20Codecs

That solved my problems in vista, the asus website has a driver that is really old.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
Oh, I wasn't trying to sound insulting at all and I apologize if it came off that way.

Unfortunately, I only have 1 single PCI slot and 2x PCIE.

Also got the 0801 USA download to work. Gonna reflash with that one and see if it makes a difference. I downloaded, flashed, and tested the 0801 global bios and 5 minutes into WoW, the comp froze again with the sound turned on. Note that it only freezes in WoW with sound on...I can have sound on everywhere outside of gaming and it never has an issue. Also note that with sound off in WoW, it never freezes.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Woohooo I am overclocKING! LOL... I'm running stable at 2.92 Ghz, 1300 Mhz FSB, 600 Mhz RAM, 4-4-4-12-2T RAM timings.

Now I just need that cooler and some faster memory and I'll be really cooking.









Problem though: when I try to update my BIOS to 608 it says something about a BIOS downgrade not being possible because it is unsuitable for my system.









You may want to grab CPU-Z and see what your current BIOS is. Did you upgrade it before or would the new mobos come with 0608? I can't see that but who knows?

If I remember correctly you can't "back flash" a BIOS using the EZ Flash utility from within Windows but if you put it on a floppy and flash it that way you should be able to roll it back.

You may want to double check on that before you move forward. I'm sure some of the OCN members here can verify it.


----------



## jesusiscool

nah dont worry about the cmos jumper, just go into the bios and set the default option so everything is at defult. then have ur usb device pluged into ur pc with the bios file (0608.bin) then run EZflash in the bios tools and then itll show 3 drivers, A:\\ B:\\ and C:\\ i think. or it might just show one, but thats what came up for me, and the just click on each one till you find the 0608 bios file. or a much easier way is to just use asus update in windows. This program is on your Motherboard installation CD. and that way you can change the startup picture to lol. hope this helped


----------



## Awesome

I wasn't trying to flash back... my BIOS version was 401, but thanks to the Cool guy here, I remembered that ASUS has that in-windows flash utility and am now at 608.


----------



## r0b126

Ok, to TriBeCa, I stand corrected... I do have a 2nd PCI slot. Forgot there was another one right next to the lower PCIE slot on the board. I moved the sound card to this slot, but in doing so, I took away almost all the room the 2nd video card had to use as breathing room. I have 2x 7600GS cards installed in SLi configuration. Moving the sound card to the upper PCI slot leaves the bottom 7600 about 4-5mm of breathing room. The GPU on that card stays relatively low anyway, so I can assume that at best the ambient temperature around the GPU will go up, but shouldn't impact performance in any way.

To aleiro. I used to have the realtek drivers installed, however, on my most recent install of XP pro, I neglected to reinstall those drivers because I have no intention of using the on-board sound. I use the SoundBlaster Live! 24-bit sound card.

I still haven't had a chance to reflash the bios using the USA version of the 0801 to see if that helps. I used the global one an hour or 2 ago and it didn't fix anything. Will try turning sound in WoW on with the card in the upper PCI slot first, then the USA 0801 bios. If none of these things work, I'm definitely open to advice / suggestions and appreciate all the help offered thus far.

edit: something else thats been happening....ever since a recent reformat and changing of HDD's (which should impact nothing), I switched to the latest version of the nvidia drivers. When I did that, any time I loaded more than 1 WoW character at a time in windowed mode, the 2nd UI would always have a line that flickered across the screen whenever I jumped or anything. Additionally, any time 2 or more characters are loaded in windowed mode at the same time, if I have something on target (including myself) only half of the avatar showing my target appears. This never used to happen before. I used to load 4 characters at a time and never experienced any graphical errors in WoW at all. In EverQuest I'd loaded 6 characters at a time before there was even any video delay and still no rendering errors.


----------



## r0b126

Progress report: No more freezing with the sound after changing slots so far. I loaded 2 chars in windowed mode, turned on sound at character in both and duelled one against the other (lots of graphical play + sound) for about 10 minutes with no freezing.

Still has the avatar issue and graphical issue with the 2nd UI, which I think is attributed to the change in drivers. Am going to revert back to the one just before nvidia's latest for the series 7 cards and see if that resolves it. Will post if so.


----------



## r0b126

For anyone that wants to know, Nvidia released a new driver for the series 7 cards last night... Driver date 11/6/2007

Gonna give this one a shot.

edit: sadly this doesn't fix the small video glitch I get in multiple WoW instances...LF old driver =/


----------



## Gauvenator

Just making sure: The Cooler Master Blue Ice without the fan on it will fit on the southbridge with dual videocards, right?

I want to make sure before I open everything up and glue it down with AS Alumina Adhesive. I will (hopefully) be getting 2 8800GT in SLI.


----------



## r0b126

anyone happen to know if you can still achieve 5.1 channel surround sound using the RealTek on-board sound?

moving the sound card to another PCI slot only worked for a few hours, then the freezing came back =/


----------



## Awesome

The onboard sound quality is terrible.


----------



## brandon6199

...still no 500+ fsb proof pics?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


...still no 500+ fsb proof pics?










I think that The Pook hit 515 on a suicide run. Somewhere between page 150-250.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
I think that The Pook hit 515 on a suicide run. Somewhere between page 150-250.

Wait tell my roommate leaves this weekend







I'll open the windows bring my ambient down to sub-zero crank my fans and get 500 lol


----------



## xaks

First time poster, been reading the site for about a week now.

Up front, some really great information here. Instead of the usual 'looking to the ends of the earth for relevant technical data', here I find almost too MUCH data, and have to figure out which to use! Nice change!

That aside, I've joined the ranks of the OCers for the first time in over 15 years of sysadminning. On advice gleaned from posts here and on OCForums, salvaged a CPU from an otherwise dead chassis and built an OC rig. Let's see if I can post a screenshot on my first try...

I'm hoping to eventually get something around 2.8-3.2Ghz out of this rig. So far I've spent ~ $215USD (lots of hardware laying around that I can scavenge for) for the MB, power supply, case, and CPU HSF, so I'm seeing how far I can reliably push the cheap









Anyhow, as you can (hopefully) see from the screenie, I'm playing with settings and seeing what happens. I'm in a fairly hot environment with this PC (72-80F) so I don't think I can go too much higher with air cooling....it's a stock HSF intel fan. Nothing extra as far as sinks go, but I did grab a case with nice, open archi and giant front air intakes...so I bolted two 120mm fans in (one front mount intake, one rear mount exhaust) and then two 80mm fans (also one front intake, one rear mount exhaust)...doing so gives enough airflow to keep the current OC at reasonable temps (sub-52C at 100 percent load).

Oh, and as I was poking around the last couple of pages and came across the Realtek driver referral links...and while the pages load, none of the download links are working to get at the files. Anyone have an alternate host available?

Allright, I'm done rambling on my opening post. Hi all! *waves


----------



## hometoast

@xaks: welcome! Fill in your system specs to give everyone a quick look. You'll definitely want a new cpu cooler. If you've been reading then you know the zalman 9700, tuniq tower, and arctic cooling freezer are all highly recommended.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
@xaks: welcome! Fill in your system specs to give everyone a quick look. You'll definitely want a new cpu cooler. If you've been reading then you know the zalman 9700, tuniq tower, and arctic cooling freezer are all highly recommended.

Or if you are like me, Pook and Kopi, go watercooling


----------



## xaks

i've built a couple of water-cooled rigs for some friends. nice cooling, but wayyy too PITA and complicated for me to fuss with right now (not to mention my wife would have a coronary at the prices).

updated the system specs i think ... try that out!

as to the cooling: yea, I know I have to address the cooling situation right quick....that's the first thing on my list. I don't want to push it much harder without some bolt-on heat sinks over the n/s bridges and better CPU unit. But it is a good first step, methinks


----------



## hometoast

if you're getting sub 52C on stock fans in that hot of a room; then you've certainly got some room to play. Follow Tribeca's guide in his sig -- it's definately the best.


----------



## r0b126

are there any other changes I'll be needing to make (like in voltage) before I change the 333 freq to 400 on the E6750? Am using the 0801 bios atm


----------



## xaks

thanks for pointing me at Tribeca's guide, that's some awesome info.

oh, and just an FYI, I'm running the 0608 BIOS on this thing...i just bought the board a couple weeks ago and that's what was on it. is there anything really that exciting about the 08 version that i 'gotta have'?


----------



## r0b126

ok, I clearly need to call someone and do this over the phone with someone with experience OCing the E6750...anyone feel like PMing me their number?

I went into jumper free config on the 0801 bios and changed the AI tuning from auto to manual.

in the fsb and mem config option, I changed fsb memory clock mode from auto to linked and then changed the fsb mem ratio to 1:1....next, I manually changed the FSB (QDR) mhz to 1600.

this all sound right so far? if I change it to 1600, that technically means it should be changing the base freq from 333 to 400. The way I am seeing this is that the 333 x 4 (for qdr) = 1333 for my fsb and then I multiply by 2 for the DDR and I get my 2.66GHz cpu clock speed. now if I change it to 1600.... this, I Am assuming means it changes teh base freq to 400 automatically which should result in a 3.2GHz cpu clock speed and 1600mhz fsb

when I esc out of this option and go to the cpu config page, it still shows the cpu clock to be at 2.66ghz

any thoughts or opinions? I don't want to do this wrong and fry the cpu...thanks.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok, I clearly need to call someone and do this over the phone with someone with experience OCing the E6750...anyone feel like PMing me their number?

I went into jumper free config on the 0801 bios and changed the AI tuning from auto to manual.

in the fsb and mem config option, I changed fsb memory clock mode from auto to linked and then changed the fsb mem ratio to 1:1....next, I manually changed the FSB (QDR) mhz to 1600.

this all sound right so far? if I change it to 1600, that technically means it should be changing the base freq from 333 to 400. The way I am seeing this is that the 333 x 4 (for qdr) = 1333 for my fsb and then I multiply by 2 for the DDR and I get my 2.66GHz cpu clock speed. now if I change it to 1600.... this, I Am assuming means it changes teh base freq to 400 automatically which should result in a 3.2GHz cpu clock speed and 1600mhz fsb

when I esc out of this option and go to the cpu config page, it still shows the cpu clock to be at 2.66ghz

any thoughts or opinions? I don't want to do this wrong and fry the cpu...thanks.


You need to reboot to see the effects. Don't worry about frying it...I believe you would need to mess with vcore to do that, or just have ridiculously high temps.


----------



## r0b126

rebooted, in cpu config, it still says cpu speed = 2.66ghz


----------



## Gauvenator

It's probably displaying the stock frequency. You'll see it with cpu-z in windows.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xaks*


i've built a couple of water-cooled rigs for some friends. nice cooling, but wayyy too PITA and complicated for me to fuss with right now (not to mention my wife would have a coronary at the prices).

updated the system specs i think ... try that out!

as to the cooling: yea, I know I have to address the cooling situation right quick....that's the first thing on my list. I don't want to push it much harder without some bolt-on heat sinks over the n/s bridges and better CPU unit. But it is a good first step, methinks










I love my WC. I raided an old dead Asus boards NB for my SB. Get an Thermalright HR-05 Sli and get either the Tuniq Tower 120 or the Thermalright 120 extreme.


----------



## r0b126

ok...just viewing the bios screen its saying my temp so far is at 54c after the change of fsb...gonna check windows and then check back here

edit: whenever I make a change in the bios and exit, it never boots up automatically... I have to exit, then power off and back on... this time when that happened, it gave me a warning for boot failure and asked me to undo changes in setup.

I hit f1 to continue anyway and it loaded windows just fine

in windows sys properties, it still lists my processor as x86 family 6 model 15 stepping 11 genuineintel ~2666 mhz


----------



## Gauvenator

I believe that continues with stock settings. I would suggest gradually raising fsb in 20mhz increments instead of leaping to 1600. If you aren't able to boot at a certain point, raise the vcore a notch.


----------



## r0b126

ok, but even if I make a 20mhz adjustment to fsb, I should be able to reboot and see an immediate difference in the overall cpu speed, right?

also, if its not at exactly 1600mhz fsb, how do I get a 1:1 with the 800mhz dimms I am using?


----------



## Gauvenator

you can work your way up to 1600, but you should see a slight increas


----------



## r0b126

is there a way to get windows to report the actual cpu speed at any given time? the sys info is always going to say 2666mhz I think

my machine has failed post twice now.

is setting the fsb memory clock mode to linked the right thing to do?

went back and changed it from 1600 to 1333..normal
if I do a 1333 to 1353 (20mhz adjustment to fsb), it fails post again


----------



## r0b126

here's a SS of what it looks like after I made the first 20Mhz adjustment in the FSB and then rebooted.


----------



## r0b126

here's another one...and these ram timings are completely off... i set them to 4-4-4-12 in the bios and before I tried OCing, when the machine would boot, during mem test it would even say 4-4-4-12, 2T. Why does CPU-Z report something differently?


----------



## Gauvenator

Definitely set your fsb to unlinked. Then you can adjust you memory and cpu fsb separately. As you're oc'ing you will notice your ram will not be at the correct speed sometimes, but at 400 fsb it will be.

Let me know how it goes unlinked.


----------



## r0b126

changed it to unlinked...on save and exit it didn't fail post as it has been

also, there is an option to enable or disable sli ready memory
I am using 2x 1gb corsair pc6400 ddr2 800mhz memory at 4-4-4-12 timings.

What does this feature do and what is the benefit, if any, to enabling it?

ok, now its showing adjustments to cpu speed when I change the fsb while its unlinked...guess that was my problem... I also manually set mem timing to 400mhz. gonna see what happens when I jump the fsb to 1600 again


----------



## Gauvenator

Only use it if you have SLI ready memory. I'm not sure what it does. Something to do with ocing I believe.

What fsb are you at now?


----------



## r0b126

jumped it to 1600 and the computer froze when I entered the bios...gonna see if it loads windows, then reboot, enter bios and see if I can get it set back down to 1353 again and start upping it in 20mhz intervals like you suggested.


----------



## r0b126

ok, this is bad...its freezing every time I enter the bios. How am I supposed to lower the fsb if the bios (the very place I correct these errors) is causing me to freeze?


----------



## Gauvenator

every 80 mhz or so you should stress test a little. If it fails, up the vcore 1 notch and try again.


----------



## Gauvenator

if that continues, you will have to reset the bios with the jumper on the mobo


----------



## r0b126

constant freezing, *** do I do


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


if that continues, you will have to reset the bios with the jumper on the mobo


have any specific instructions? I'm not sure where this is, what it looks like, etc...

I could just pull the battery off the mobo for a min and then the bios should reset back to factory defaults, right?


----------



## Gauvenator

um..the manual has instructions I believe, and a diagram of the layout of the mobo


----------



## r0b126

wuwu, got it to stay on long enough to flip it back to 1333


----------



## Gauvenator

glad to hear it...is your vcore on auto? If it isn't, use CoreTemp to check your VID and set it to that.

i've got to eat, ttyl


----------



## r0b126

will check for ya in a sec.... I have to be at work in 1 hour.. so I'll need to leave to shower, change, and drive there...but I am an IT at a hospital, so I can take the comp there, get online and fiddle with the OCing some more. Gonna mess with it for a few more minutes and will keep you updated on the vcore/fsb...hoping I get this fing thing to 1600 tonight though lol

edit: yes, vcore is set to auto....setting it to 1373 and trying again

ok, cpu-z is reporting 2746.5mhz @ 1373 bios set fsb setting....343.3 mhz bus speed
also, the mem timings are correct now ever since I unlinked...cpu-z says 4-4-4-12 2T

edit2: took it to 1393, showing 2784 core speed...348 on the bus
core voltage @ 1.440 with auto...ram freq is set to 198.9....can someone explain that? is that just the base freq or is that what its defaulting to due to the manually adjusted fsb settings I gave it?

the pc6400 dimms I am using are supposed to be 800mhz

edit3: 2826, bus 353.3, fsb 1413....mem freq still says 198.7 and still confuses me
fsb:dram says 16:9 ratio


----------



## Gauvenator

You will have a 1:1 ratio at 400fsb. The frequencies are kindof weird sometimes.

Did you check what your VID is with CoreTemp? You should definitely set it to that in the bios, so that the Auto setting doesn't pump too much vcore.
And if your having stability issues, turn it up a notch.


----------



## r0b126

ok latest update: I got it up to 1593 on the FSB and it booted into windows just fine right under 3.2GHz on the processor.

Under memory it still shows about 198Mhz for the mem freq.

I jumped it up another 20 to 1613 and it froze during windows boot. Should I adjust the voltage or drop it back down to 1593? Also, no, I have never used CoreTemp

Quote:

Did you check what your VID is with CoreTemp? You should definitely set it to that in the bios, so that the Auto setting doesn't pump too much vcore.
Honestly, I'm new at this, so I don't even know what you mean with that question / statement. I can look around in the bios for something that resembles what you're asking and see if I find it.

What should I do as far as trying to fully utilize my 800MHz memory with this system that won't clock at or over 1600MHz on the FSB? Any advice?


----------



## Gauvenator

Try 1600. It will get you an even 800mhz on the ram. If it doesn't boot, up the voltage a little.


----------



## r0b126

last time I tried 1600, it was freezing a ton when I went into the bios and failing post every other time I rebooted. Is there a vcore adjustment that can be made in order to fix this before I try it again... or any other change for that matter? Thanks for all the help.


----------



## r0b126

it was at 1.44 before. If I change it to 1.45 is that enough?


----------



## Gauvenator

Up the voltage a knotch or two, then up it to 1600.


----------



## r0b126

at 1.45 volts, it does nothing at all during boot up...just sits there. Am assuming it is failing POST again. Bump it up more? Someone in a previous post a week or so back said that there was a problem with where the FSB hole is and that I might have to run at just over or just under 400 base freq...know anything about that? Can voltage fix it?

Edit: got it to 1.456, gonna see if it boots


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


at 1.45 volts, it does nothing at all during boot up...just sits there. Am assuming it is failing POST again. Bump it up more? Someone in a previous post a week or so back said that there was a problem with where the FSB hole is and that I might have to run at just over or just under 400 base freq...know anything about that? Can voltage fix it?


You may have run into a hole. You could try jumping over it, or going just below it. If more vcore doesn't fix it, then it probably is a hole.


----------



## r0b126

ok, vcore at 1.4625 still fails post... If I go just under or over it, do I lose the possibility of getting 1:1 or anywhere close to that ratio?


----------



## Gauvenator

I think (but am not sure) that going just under will be closer than over.


----------



## r0b126

ok, so 1593 it is? Should I try 1599? Does it have to be at a specific interval?


----------



## Gauvenator

no, just get as close as possible.


----------



## Evostance

Ok what is the northbridge and the southbridge?

If anyone can edit a photo of the mobo it would explain it better

Thanks


----------



## xaks

I brought the PC home from the office, plugged it in and let it run a scandisk while making & eating dinner.

After getting tidied up, I get the thing to the desktop....low and behold:

why is my core temp so high?

I checked all the fans and connections. Nothing loose or out of place. But it's 7-11 C higher than it was at the office!

At most, the room I'm in now is 5 or 6 degrees F warmer, certainly not enough to warrant such a swing upwards.

Thoughts?


----------



## r0b126

ok, I set it to 1599MHz FSB and set the vcore back to auto. It passed post and appears to be loading into windows just fine.

edit: froze during windows boot


----------



## Gauvenator

Set vcore manually. Should clear it up. You might have to go 1mhz lower or something also, for complete stability.


----------



## r0b126

what voltage should I use if I set it manually? I think its defaulting to 1.44

I removed the battery on the mobo for a few mins and that got bios reset back to factory defaults. Manually changed it to 1598 on the fsb...gonna see what that does

passed post at 1597, froze during windows boot up. Gonna try 1596. Think this is still the hole or something voltage can fix? afk a few


----------



## r0b126

ok, this time I set it to 1596 on the FSB and thought all my problems were solved. It booted into windows just fine. I started CPU-Z and it gave me the following

FSB 1596MHz
CPU Speed 3192MHz
Bus frequency 399MHz

Under memory it said
Frequency 399MHz
FSB







RAM 1:1

I went to take a screenshot of it and modify the picture in PSP8 and it froze just before I went to save the image. Is this a problem fixable with and adjustment in voltage or do I need to lower the FSB frequency some more?


----------



## Gauvenator

Little more voltage probably.


----------



## r0b126

If this thing freezes periodically, I can keep upping the voltage to try to resolve freezing issues, but if each time I think I have it fixed and up the voltage, when do I know to stop. I don't want to keep thinking that voltage is the issue and keep upping it so much that I fry the cpu.


----------



## r0b126

I put the voltage at 1.4625....when do I stop? Whats safe?


----------



## Gauvenator

I'd say no more than 1.5

If you continue to have stability problems, lower the fsb a little, as you are near a hole.


----------



## Gauvenator

r0b126, dload coretemp and post back what your VID is:

http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evostance*


Ok what is the northbridge and the southbridge?

If anyone can edit a photo of the mobo it would explain it better

Thanks










Here you go...


----------



## r0b126

can't get coreTemp on the computer due to freezing issues atm...can always set it back to 1333 and auto on the vcore I suppose

but I still won't be able to run it at 1596 fsb

btw, how do we determine if the freeze is voltage or FSB hole related?


----------



## r0b126

am starting to consider changing mobo's...

would it be insane to try 1800MHz FSB, 3.6GHz CPU @ 1.4v and try upping the memory clock to 900MHz? System specs in profile

http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sspec=sla9v

says that VID Voltage range is 0.85 to 1.5v


----------



## Gauvenator

You may wish to try the 0608 bios. I've heard good things about it.

And, to determine whether the freeze is hole or voltage related, try going down to 1550 and see if it still freezes.


----------



## r0b126

Can the bios make a performance difference if its a FSB hole thats causing the problem? I can always try to reflash it. Need to see if I can find a USB stick around here somewhere (am at work atm). I work in info sys, so I pretty much do what I want all day...getting paid for the "oh @$&!" factor.

Something else I noticed on the newegg site, in the customer reviews. A lot of people have said they upped this to 3.2GHz and not had any problems. Of course they didn't mention what mobo they were using or get very specific.


----------



## r0b126

ok, here's what I got so far. I upped the voltage to near max (according to Intel) about 1.48ish.










***










been running about 5 mins now with no freezes.

That 399 would suggest an operating frequency with the memory on the FSB of 798Mhz, right?


----------



## Gauvenator

If it doesn't start freezing again, it sounds like it was a voltage issue. In case you were wondering, the VID is the stock voltage for your chip.

Looks like you're running somewhat hot (you are idling right?). But don't those new C2Ds have a new thermal limit?


----------



## xlastshotx

Hometoast, what bios revision are you using? The 703rev bios is very hard to OC with, I had a lot of trouble with it. If you are using the 703rev try the 608rev bios. It was like night and day for me.


----------



## r0b126

This is my first dual core processor, so I'm really not sure how to interpret those CPU temperature readings. It says Tjunction 100C...that doesn't mean its running 100C does it? Each core is around 50C which seems more normal.

Not sure how to fix that, but yea, thats idling (just windows/firewall/logmein running w/ CPU-Z and CoreTemp)...no games or anything. Going to play with the resolutions and maybe monitor temps with WoW running...first have to see if I can even run it from work.


----------



## r0b126

Man, I swear this is going to be nothing but a living nightmare for me. I started WoW and at the login screen as soon as it got to "Connecting" the whole comp froze again. If I change bios' back to the 0608, do you think it will resolve any of these freezing issues?

At first I thought this was a win/win situation and loved the board / cpu combo...now I'm starting to think more along the buyer-beware train of thought /sigh


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
That 399 would suggest an operating frequency with the memory on the FSB of 798Mhz, right?

Yes, that sounds right. In the bios if you disable the logo on boot, your RAM frequency is displayed, along with your processor frequency also.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
This is my first dual core processor, so I'm really not sure how to interpret those CPU temperature readings. It says Tjunction 100C...that doesn't mean its running 100C does it? Each core is around 50C which seems more normal.

Not sure how to fix that, but yea, thats idling (just windows/firewall/logmein running w/ CPU-Z and CoreTemp)...no games or anything. Going to play with the resolutions and maybe monitor temps with WoW running...first have to see if I can even run it from work.

core 0 and core 1 are what you want to look at; those are the readings for each core


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
Man, I swear this is going to be nothing but a living nightmare for me. I started WoW and at the login screen as soon as it got to "Connecting" the whole comp froze again. If I change bios' back to the 0608, do you think it will resolve any of these freezing issues?

At first I thought this was a win/win situation and loved the board / cpu combo...now I'm starting to think more along the buyer-beware train of thought /sigh

I think it would be a good idea to try the 0608 before trading in your mobo.


----------



## xlastshotx

It could solve some freezing issues. The 608 bios is much more stable. And anyways, It wont hurt to try it. Good Luck


----------



## r0b126

ok, I talked to Alerio on the phone for a little over 2 hours. He helped get all the bios settings corrected and the voltages under control.

Everything's running fine for the most part, just trying to tweak it now. Basically, I've been lowering the voltages in the bios to help lower the temperatures, but if either core goes over 77C during orthos after about 2 minutes or so, I've been lowering the voltage. I lowered it enough so that it stayed at about 74 after 3 tests, but then I started getting stop errors. Every time I get a stop error, I boost the voltage up 1 notch and rerun orthos. So far the longest orthos has run is 9 minutes before a stop. 1.3000 was the first error, for the first 2 notches above that, I got stop errors as well. Right now I am 3 notches above 1.3000. About to run orthos again.

At what point do you draw the line for your voltage. Aleiro said that it needs to run for 35 minutes without errors. What I'm trying to do is avoid going back to square 1 and having the voltage too high again as well. It seems like there's going to have to be middle ground (for the cheap cooling I have atm) between stop errors after a certain number of minutes OR having a core hit 77-80C during the orthos test at one point or another.

As I understand it, Orthos is going to drive the temps up higher than any game I play.

Any advice?


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*


It could solve some freezing issues. The 608 bios is much more stable. And anyways, It wont hurt to try it. Good Luck











The 0801 bios has only been out for 3 days, how can anyone make a stability comparison between it and the 0608 so soon?


----------



## r0b126

35 minutes, no errors

core#0 is bouncing between 80 and 81 celsius though
core#1 77-78

probe2 has it at 52C at 30 minutes, 9 tests into the run

I need better cooling is all on that one. Am using an $11 asus cooling solution atm....of course my gaming should never generate the same temps as Orthos, but no point in leaving a potential problem unresolved.

Idling its at 32-34C
Under full load for the first few tests, it never passed 77C in CoreTemp or 48C in Probe2...is changing though.

Edit: test 10 looks bad =/ has cpu-z/probe2 at 83/81/52...core0 only stayed at 83 for a min, then dropped to 80 near the end of that test. It never dropped back below 80C even when it recycled to test 1 again. At 35 minutes I stopped orthos and labelled it a successs at this voltage. Will reboot and post voltage for anyone interested in using this same combo. Of course, any decent cooling system will produce better temps, but this is a good safe voltage to use with the E6750 / Asus P5N-E 650i Sli board.

Asus P5N-E 650i SLi
Intel E6750 @ 1500MHz FSB, 3.0GHz
vcore 1.31875
Ran orthos for 35 minutes with 0 stops

You may be able to go higher with this same combo, but for the moment... I don't have a need for it, so I haven't tested it. And of course the results may vary from board to board /shrug


----------



## xaks

interesting.

i was concerned about the high 'core' readings on my rig after bringing the PC home last night, so I factory reset the BIOS this morning (changing only the hardware fan controls) and let windows load up.

idle, the 'core' reading dropped to 47C.

doing a small i/o load (copying about 30 gigs across the network to the local hard disk from the server) brings the temp up to 48-49C...see screenie.

this kinda concerns me. what's considered acceptable for a reading on this temp anyhow?


----------



## r0b126

Can anyone review my build and figure out why the heck I am getting a 3dmarks score of only 4237? When I had a single core P4 2.8GHz 800MHz FSB processor (real pos) I got a score that was only 800-900 marks lower.

This score is disappointingly pathetic. Also, during most of the tests in 3dMark06, the apps were running 22fps or lower, 1 even ran 0-2 fps. When I play WoW, I get 233fps full screen and everything...whats the deal here?


----------



## Christiaan

2x 7600 GS (512MB)

There is your problem.
With my sig rig, a single 7600GT I score 3800. So two 7600GS's in SLI getting 4200 is no surprise. They are quite a bit slower than the GT.

I also get low fps during 3DMark06 and the ones you got 0-2fps was the CPU tests. I get 0-1fps on those...

So don't worry, nothing wrong with your rig, 3DMark06 is just too taxing.


----------



## xaks

OK, I brought my PC back down to my office and got it running at the factory default BIOS settings. The value displayed via the SpeedFan 4.33 readings page under Core 0 and Core 1 is simply called "Core" and is now back down around 42-44C. (See Screencap)

I've sent an email off to the SpeedFan author, but in the meantime I'd bounce the question off of y'all experienced users:

What component/item/area temp is actually being monitored for this value? And, more importantly, once I know that, what are my options for improving my cooling for it?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
The 0801 bios has only been out for 3 days, how can anyone make a stability comparison between it and the 0608 so soon?

According to ASUS there have only been minor changes since the 0703- none of which would be an OC helper. 0703 was :turd: and I expect the same as 0801. 0608 is perfectly fine, no need to change unless you have stability problems at stock speeds.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xaks* 
What component/item/area temp is actually being monitored for this value? And, more importantly, once I know that, what are my options for improving my cooling for it?

Judging from the temp I'd say it may be the NB


----------



## xaks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Judging from the temp I'd say it may be the NB

Hrmm.

The NB already has a large passive metal heatsink attached, and it is getting airflow.

I take it I need to try to scrounge a couple active coolers that will fit on the NB/SB chips?


----------



## Perry

I'd reseat it as well and apply better thermal interface material (TIM) such as Arctic Silver 5.. When I took mine off it looked like someone put the TIM on with a shovel.


----------



## hometoast

rejoice!

I'm running 1500 fsb and I"m 1 hour orthos stable atm.

375x8 = 3.0Ghz
vcore 1.375 (cpuz=1.392) NO droop
NB 1.5
Ram 4-4-4-12,2T 2.178V @ 800Mhz (gives a 15:16 divider tho)
Temp Blend about 57, ffts about 62

I'm thinking this is the most I'm going to get out of my current setup. 1600 is totally not stable; 1620,1640,1650,1550 all give me rounding errors even at 1.45 vcore.

Edit: ok this thing HATES me... soon as I posted this I got the rounding error on orthos. BAH


----------



## aleiro

put your NB on auto you dont need it at 1.5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
rejoice!

I'm running 1500 fsb and I"m 1 hour orthos stable atm.

375x8 = 3.0Ghz
vcore 1.375 (cpuz=1.392) NO droop
NB 1.5
Ram 4-4-4-12,2T 2.178V @ 800Mhz (gives a 15:16 divider tho)
Temp Blend about 57, ffts about 62

I'm thinking this is the most I'm going to get out of my current setup. 1600 is totally not stable; 1620,1640,1650,1550 all give me rounding errors even at 1.45 vcore.

Edit: ok this thing HATES me... soon as I posted this I got the rounding error on orthos. BAH


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
put your NB on auto you dont need it at 1.5

You dont leave voltages at auto, you always manually set them.


----------



## aleiro

well default (auto) for the P5n-e is 1.25v so yes you leave it on auto. Your other choices are 1.2 or 1.39.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
You dont leave voltages at auto, you always manually set them.


----------



## hometoast

ive tried all the other nb voltages.. its on 1.2 right now at stock speed.

1.24 vcore, 1.9 vdimm


----------



## aleiro

i think your ram should be set at 2.08, and NB set to auto = 1.25v

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
ive tried all the other nb voltages.. its on 1.2 right now at stock speed.

1.24 vcore, 1.9 vdimm


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


i think your ram should be set at 2.08, and NB set to auto = 1.25v


No. Those are my stable 1333 fsb settings. I have no prob w/ this setup. its when I go to even 1400 fsb it falls apart.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


well default (auto) for the P5n-e is 1.25v so yes you leave it on auto. Your other choices are 1.2 or 1.39.


Like i said before you dont leave it on auto, since it will use the voltage it wants to and not what you set it at. The same applies to the Vcore. With my current settings to run at 3.4Ghz, i only have a vcore of 1.4v but if i changed it to auto it would be at 1.6.


----------



## aleiro

I know how the auto works on the vcore, however for compatibility setting the NB on auto it runs at a single value. I had a friend do a probe test, i know 100% that it stays at 1.25v. I couldnt find this info on the web at all which was a suprise you would think asus would define AUTO. My friend happens to have that equipment (and knows how to work it, which i dont). He tested it to 1600fsb and the value never changes. After 415 (1660) you do require a NB bump to 1.39v. Also, the Ram voltage auto=1.8v and once again it doesnt change. If you do not adjust you fsb the Auto for the vcore is 1.344v. These settings are for people who dont understand how to overclock, and each voltage is regarded as 'stable' for general usage.

Also, being as i have always left the NB on auto. When i do increase my fsb then i should see an increase in temp on the NB; because the mobo would increase the NB voltage automatically. Well that isnt the case, i have had my CPU up to 3.2 @ 1.44v (orthos blend stable) and the NB stays at 37C. I am currently at 2.67 @1333fsb @1.22v and the NB is still 37C. So i could loosely assume that the voltage on the NB has not changed. I too used to think an increase in the NB voltage was necessary, and as i am sure you have seen, increasing the NB to 1.39 or 1.5 does in fact raise you temp regardless of the stress on the system.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Like i said before you dont leave it on auto, since it will use the voltage it wants to and not what you set it at. The same applies to the Vcore. With my current settings to run at 3.4Ghz, i only have a vcore of 1.4v but if i changed it to auto it would be at 1.6.


----------



## xaks

dug around a bit and found out something interesting...

the 'Core' temp reading on my previous screenshots that was too high? that's the GPU core temp!

now, I've spent a lil time Googling around, but there doesn't seem to be much data available for heat tolerances on GPUs, especially slightly less-than-mainstream non-gaming cards like my Quadro 550.

anyone happen to know of, or have experience with, this? I've even gone so far as to head over to nVidia's forums and register an account there with a request for data, but I'd like to get as much info from as many sources as I can.


----------



## jesusiscool

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


anyone happen to know if you can still achieve 5.1 channel surround sound using the RealTek on-board sound?

moving the sound card to another PCI slot only worked for a few hours, then the freezing came back =/


yes you can with the onboard. the drivers sort that out with that realtek program thing.


----------



## xaks

I'm poking through the nVidia control panel and nTune software right now (just downloaded it).

Default settings, monitor temperatures, GPU, settings: default track GPU1, alert type *dropdownlist*, set alert threshold 127 degrees C.

That CANNOT be right....right?

127C would cook most of the inside of the tower to slag!


----------



## aleiro

its right that is the threshold for a gpu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xaks* 
I'm poking through the nVidia control panel and nTune software right now (just downloaded it).

Default settings, monitor temperatures, GPU, settings: default track GPU1, alert type *dropdownlist*, set alert threshold 127 degrees C.

That CANNOT be right....right?

127C would cook most of the inside of the tower to slag!


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xaks* 
dug around a bit and found out something interesting...

the 'Core' temp reading on my previous screenshots that was too high? that's the GPU core temp!

now, I've spent a lil time Googling around, but there doesn't seem to be much data available for heat tolerances on GPUs, especially slightly less-than-mainstream non-gaming cards like my Quadro 550.

anyone happen to know of, or have experience with, this? I've even gone so far as to head over to nVidia's forums and register an account there with a request for data, but I'd like to get as much info from as many sources as I can.

I believe it to be quite high, since ive installed about 16 Wuadro FX4500X2's into 8 Sun Mincrosystems Ultra 40's and they didnt move that much air when we powered them up. Or tell if they have powered up apart from a single LED as they were that quite.


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xaks*


I'm poking through the nVidia control panel and nTune software right now (just downloaded it).

Default settings, monitor temperatures, GPU, settings: default track GPU1, alert type *dropdownlist*, set alert threshold 127 degrees C.

That CANNOT be right....right?

127C would cook most of the inside of the tower to slag!



Even if that is the right threshold for the GPU, you'll definitely want to lower that temp regardless (assuming you're running anywhere near that hot) as it will boost the ambient temperatures of your other hardware....127C = 260.6F, you can cook food on that... literally.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

just purchased the P5N-E SLI to get into OverClocking and have a very simple question. Is there something quirky with the Q6600, P5N-E, Vista 32bit and 2 Gig of RAM?? I was getting RAM scores of 5.4 with PC3200, and now I can't get over 4.5 in the Vista index for memory (I've also noticed that many Q6600 owners run 3Gig system memory). I just put this system together today, and wanted to know I was okay before doing any tweaking. I've been running now for about 12 hours and had one BSOD (BIOS VER. 0608)...with nothing running, system was stable til then even while running stability tests, 3DMark06 and 05 5250/10336. If this has been discussed previously I apologize, but I couldn't seem to find any type of FAQ for such a large thread. Thanks!!

Attachment 59519 Attachment 59520I


----------



## aleiro

If you used the sound drivers from the CD with vista that is probably why you are crashing. you should go to the realtek website and download the HD 1.81 drivers.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


just purchased the P5N-E SLI to get into OverClocking and have a very simple question. Is there something quirky with the Q6600, P5N-E, Vista 32bit and 2 Gig of RAM?? I was getting RAM scores of 5.4 with PC3200, and now I can't get over 4.5 in the Vista index for memory (I've also noticed that many Q6600 owners run 3Gig system memory). I just put this system together today, and wanted to know I was okay before doing any tweaking. I've been running now for about 12 hours and had one BSOD (BIOS VER. 0608)...with nothing running, system was stable til then even while running stability tests, 3DMark06 and 05 5250/10336. If this has been discussed previously I apologize, but I couldn't seem to find any type of FAQ for such a large thread. Thanks!!

Attachment 59519 Attachment 59520I


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


just purchased the P5N-E SLI to get into OverClocking and have a very simple question. Is there something quirky with the Q6600, P5N-E, Vista 32bit and 2 Gig of RAM?? I was getting RAM scores of 5.4 with PC3200, and now I can't get over 4.5 in the Vista index for memory (I've also noticed that many Q6600 owners run 3Gig system memory). I just put this system together today, and wanted to know I was okay before doing any tweaking. I've been running now for about 12 hours and had one BSOD (BIOS VER. 0608)...with nothing running, system was stable til then even while running stability tests, 3DMark06 and 05 5250/10336. If this has been discussed previously I apologize, but I couldn't seem to find any type of FAQ for such a large thread. Thanks!!

Attachment 59519 Attachment 59520I


this board as i heard is not a good overclocker for QUADS... for C2D is easy !


----------



## Coma

Hi again everybody!

I'm considering buying a decent aftermarket CPU cooler so I can push this thing further. 
I was testing to see how far I could push it to see if it's worth it, and my goal was 3.6GHz. I didn't wanna go any higher than that because 3.6GHz was already hitting 55-60c when idle.

I got it to it to load into Vista with 1.5v (1.42v measured) at that freq... and as you can see, my vdroop is HUGE.

It never froze or anything like that, but Orthos reported a hardware failure right after I started it (less than a sec). I'm guessing that as soon as I loaded it, the vdroop grew immensely. (oh wow, that 72c spike was scary D









Is there a vdroop mod guide for this board? It looks like I won't be able to push much without one.

Thanks ;D

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


just purchased the P5N-E SLI to get into OverClocking and have a very simple question. Is there something quirky with the Q6600, P5N-E, Vista 32bit and 2 Gig of RAM?? I was getting RAM scores of 5.4 with PC3200, and now I can't get over 4.5 in the Vista index for memory (I've also noticed that many Q6600 owners run 3Gig system memory). I just put this system together today, and wanted to know I was okay before doing any tweaking. I've been running now for about 12 hours and had one BSOD (BIOS VER. 0608)...with nothing running, system was stable til then even while running stability tests, 3DMark06 and 05 5250/10336. If this has been discussed previously I apologize, but I couldn't seem to find any type of FAQ for such a large thread. Thanks!!


Well, like the above person said, the NVIDIA 650i and 680i, except for the EVGA 680i ones, don't seem to be that good for overclocking quads.

There are people, however, who have had good luck with these. By all means though, if you can't seem to overclock with it later, try to return it and use it as store credit to get another MB.

Anyway, after taking a quick look, I noticed your tRAS timing was insanely high - 31! Most 5-5-5 timings are accompanied by tRAS set to 15 or 12. Yours is a little more than twice of these.

Find the stock timings for your RAM (online) and manually set them.
To find them, open CPU-Z, go to the SPD tab, look at one of your sticks' Part Number then Google it along with Hynix. Mine is OCZ2P800R21G, so I'll google "OCZ OCZ2P800R21G" (without the quotes). The second results leads me to the manufacturer's site, where the timings are listed.

Also set your tRC: it is probably not going to be specified, but your tRC should be set to tRAS + tRP.
I run 4-4-4-12, so my tRP timing is 4 and the tRAS timing is 12. 4+12 is 16, so my tRC timing is 16.
Don't set it any lower than that (not 16, but whatever you calculate) because it'll cause data corruption.

Also try setting your command rate to 1T instead of 2T.

That's about your bad memory performance. As for your BSOD... once more, you'll have to look up the stock voltage for your RAM and manually set it, as it might be getting too little voltage.
This should be found on the same page as the timings.

I'd do the same with the CPU. Download CoreTemp and look at the VID. That's your CPU's stock voltage (each CPU has a different VID - this is decided in the factory). Manually set the voltage to that.

Good luck!


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Thanks for that suggestion coma this memory thing is very confusing for this NOOB!!! I think I'll just throw my E6600 back in if I can't get anywhere with the Quad. The reason for the Q6600 is only for video editing and Crysis. Took the heatsink off the NB of my "old" ASROCK 4CoreDual Sata-2 that was sitting around after purchasing it about 2 weeks ago. What a piece of [email protected]#$t, I guess you get what you payed for. Got a real nice HS for my Asus (almost looks like it was made for it) and it only cost me 80 bucks!!! I knew that ASROCK would be good for something!!! Now gotta wait until I can get something better than a stock HS&F to do some OCing...was hitting 61C about 30 secs into Orthos







Any suggestion for the best cooling?? (gotta stick with air for now, mommy won't let me spend too much more on this thing). Cheers!!!

Attachment 59553


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Thanks so much for the tips Coma...after a couple hours of playing with the FSB and Memory Timings I have a very stable system, Vista memory score now 5.0 and 3DMark05 10484. I am really new at OCing, been doing it for about two hours







Can anyone tell me if I'm doing anything wrong here?? When I set Command Rate to 1T, the system will not boot. All the research I have done suggest it is a limitation of the BIOS/MB?? Again, Coma...thanks for helping a NOOB!!!! Cheers!!

Attachment 59572 Attachment 59573


----------



## aleiro

man i just dont understand how yalls idle is sooo high. I have the stock intel cooler on the processor and still only idle at 36C, using orthos blend stress test i only hit 46C. Now i am only at 2.8Ghz but if you want me to get a screen pic of 3.2 i will be more than happy, it still only idles at 36-37C with 1.44v. Oh and before you say i have my house temp at 40F my thermostat stays at 75-76F.


----------



## aleiro

So i clearly lied... its 46C not 45C. But you get the idea, after running orthos for 14 mins i peak at about 46C @ 2.91ghz. Once again i can get some pics of 3.2 which is still around 48C on load. I just dont know why people seem to talk about sixty when i cant even break 50C. I have a stock cooler on the chip so maybe a remount is in order.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

I think the Quad is going to run alot hotter regardless of cooling, I just found an old CoolerMaster lying around and threw it in, can't get over 56c now no matter what I throw at it. I was watching tv, running orthos, and I am now posting this message all at the same time, the thing is I'm at the brink of 3Ghz but just can't get there. Time to learn about voltage adjusting? Or is there something else? I know the Dual cores overclock better, but can you beat the multi-tasking ability of the Quad??

Attachment 59590


----------



## aleiro

i thought i uploaded the screen shot but i didnt so here it is...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


So i clearly lied... its 46C not 45C. But you get the idea, after running orthos for 14 mins i peak at about 46C @ 2.91ghz. Once again i can get some pics of 3.2 which is still around 48C on load. I just dont know why people seem to talk about sixty when i cant even break 50C. I have a stock cooler on the chip so maybe a remount is in order.


----------



## aleiro

You have to run two sessions of orthos to stress the whole CPU, dont get me wrong i am getting a quad soon but i am posting to the guy with a 6420 idling at 55c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


I think the Quad is going to run alot hotter regardless of cooling, I just found an old CoolerMaster lying around and threw it in, can't get over 56c now no matter what I throw at it. I was watching tv, running orthos, and I am now posting this message all at the same time, the thing is I'm at the brink of 3Ghz but just can't get there. Time to learn about voltage adjusting? Or is there something else? I know the Dual cores overclock better, but can you beat the multi-tasking ability of the Quad??

Attachment 59590


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Ooops sorry Aleiro, I thought you were commenting on the fact that I couldn't run Orthos more than 30 secs before I hit 61C, you actually helped me out alot tho...I found out I needed a better cooling system right away!!!


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Last night I had oc'd up to 2.925Ghz on Q6600, this morning I can't get over 2.7Ghz. All 4 cores are about 29C, I haven't turned on my Furnace yet and I live in Canada







Is it possible that cpu too cold?? Or am I a moron!! Cheers!


----------



## aleiro

No cpus dont get to cold. you might be in a fsb hole. Thats what happened to me, i can run 1.325 @ 2.89 but my comp will fail post one out of ten times. If i push it to 2.91 its fine but i have to increase the voltage to 1.3625 so my performance to voltage ratio is cut.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo* 
Last night I had oc'd up to 2.925Ghz on Q6600, this morning I can't get over 2.7Ghz. All 4 cores are about 29C, I haven't turned on my Furnace yet and I live in Canada







Is it possible that cpu too cold?? Or am I a moron!! Cheers!


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Okay, with that info Aleiro I think I know what could be the issue. First time I boot up this morning, after clocking down to stock FSB I notice the Vcore is at 1.18V. As the morning goes by, the Vcore is steadily increasing and is now between 1.29 and 1.32V. Do I have a faulty PSU?? Last night when I was sitting at FSB 1300Mhz, Vcore was approx. 1.33V and I was rock solid. Thanks!!!


----------



## aleiro

do you have C1e or stepspeed on? check your bios. Also, did you manually set your vcore voltage?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo* 
Okay, with that info Aleiro I think I know what could be the issue. First time I boot up this morning, after clocking down to stock FSB I notice the Vcore is at 1.18V. As the morning goes by, the Vcore is steadily increasing and is now between 1.29 and 1.32V. Do I have a faulty PSU?? Last night when I was sitting at FSB 1300Mhz, Vcore was approx. 1.33V and I was rock solid. Thanks!!!


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
do you have C1e or stepspeed on? check your bios. Also, did you manually set your vcore voltage?


Both are disabled, set the Vcore in BIOS to approx. 1.32V and Vcore in system is @1.296 on boot?? It's almost like I have a new CPU in this thing. Have turned all my fans OFF and cannot get this thing to idle higher than 42C, last night Idle was about the same with Fans running full bore. I cannot go 1hz higher than 1200Mhz on FSB or it will freeze, last night was at 1300Mhz without a hitch???


----------



## dac2u

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
man i just dont understand how yalls idle is sooo high. I have the stock intel cooler on the processor and still only idle at 36C, using orthos blend stress test i only hit 46C. Now i am only at 2.8Ghz but if you want me to get a screen pic of 3.2 i will be more than happy, it still only idles at 36-37C with 1.44v. Oh and before you say i have my house temp at 40F my thermostat stays at 75-76F.

PC Probe isn't accurate at all, I'm not even sure it measures the CPU's temp, I know it says that it does. But, if you use SpeedFan alongside PC Probe, you'll notice that temp 1 and 2 on SpeedFan are the same readings as CPU and MB on PC Probe(when a temp goes up in PC Probe it goes up in SpeedFan as well). The Temp 1 and 2 in SpeedFan are motherboard temps, so I believe that's what PC Probe is reporting. PC Probe shows my CPU at 36c idle, but SpeedFan shows both of my cores at 30-32c idle.


----------



## MuffDiver

dude im at 3.2ghz at 1.5v 10 hours stable 34c idle 56c load
turn your vcore up to 1.45 and your NB core at 1.563
a q6600 g0 should do 3.2 no problem


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MuffDiver* 
dude im at 3.2ghz at 1.5v 10 hours stable 34c idle 56c load
turn your vcore up to 1.45 and your NB core at 1.563
a q6600 g0 should do 3.2 no problem

Did everything you suggested, I can't get past 1300Mhz FSB have tried 1350/1360/1370Mhz to see if I could POST, but seems my hole is pretty wide. My memory is unlinked and keeping at stock speed and timings (667 5-5-5-20) is that a problem?? At least I'm back to where I was last night, but I had to raise my NB to 1.563V to get there and last evening I didn't. Thanks for the help MD!!!


----------



## aleiro

first you are wrong it works fine i use like three programs... second Tcase and Tjunction temps will be different. Chances are that Speedfan is incorrect if it said your core is below your case temp. Everest used to do that until they fixed it. Would a mobo temp idle at 35-36C and peak with orthos at 45-46... that sounds like a CPU to me but idk...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dac2u* 
PC Probe isn't accurate at all, I'm not even sure it measures the CPU's temp, I know it says that it does. But, if you use SpeedFan alongside PC Probe, you'll notice that temp 1 and 2 on SpeedFan are the same readings as CPU and MB on PC Probe(when a temp goes up in PC Probe it goes up in SpeedFan as well). The Temp 1 and 2 in SpeedFan are motherboard temps, so I believe that's what PC Probe is reporting. PC Probe shows my CPU at 36c idle, but SpeedFan shows both of my cores at 30-32c idle.


----------



## r0b126

getting crashes related to sound drivers. computer will just reset itself entirely at random. Microsoft says that windows recovered from a serious error, when I report it they say the problem is related to audio software...am removing all sound drivers and sound apps that have ever been installed here. What I'm needing to do is use the on-board sound with my 5.1ch ss....which audio driver is best to use for this?

edit: I get the windows has recovered from a serious error message every time I reboot, not just on crashes. MS says its audio software related even when there are no drivers installed and windows keeps saying it found new hardware due to lack of driver installation


----------



## Mercsenary

Hello, Im new here and I've got a question. Just got a new P5N-E SLI. Installed it all fine. Tried install my Geforce 6600 and the comp powered on and then right back off. Tried an old PCI video card. It booted up fine. So the question is: Does the motherboard support non-SLI cards or do I need an SLI card for it to boot?

It seems like I do but I just want to get confirmation on that before I go off on another wild goose chase for video card. Also is there something I should know about the quality of Nvidia's Geforce 8x00 series? Just today, I tried to pick up a 8500 GT but the sales guy said that all 7 in stock were defective. As in there was actually something wrong or broken with it.


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mercsenary*


Hello, Im new here and I've got a question. Just got a new P5N-E SLI. Installed it all fine. Tried install my Geforce 6600 and the comp powered on and then right back off. Tried an old PCI video card. It booted up fine. So the question is: Does the motherboard support non-SLI cards or do I need an SLI card for it to boot?

It seems like I do but I just want to get confirmation on that before I go off on another wild goose chase for video card. Also is there something I should know about the quality of Nvidia's Geforce 8x00 series? Just today, I tried to pick up a 8500 GT but the sales guy said that all 7 in stock were defective. As in there was actually something wrong or broken with it.


There is a chip on the motherboard (it looks exactly like an SODIMM except pink)...it should be seated in between the 2 PCIE slots. Just make sure that the side that says "Single Video Card" is the end that is inserted into the slot, if its not, just power the PC off and flip it around


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MuffDiver*


dude im at 3.2ghz at 1.5v 10 hours stable 34c idle 56c load
turn your vcore up to 1.45 and your NB core at 1.563
a q6600 g0 should do 3.2 no problem


No Quad will do more than 3.0Ghz on this board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


first you are wrong it works fine i use like three programs... second Tcase and Tjunction temps will be different. Chances are that Speedfan is incorrect if it said your core is below your case temp. Everest used to do that until they fixed it. Would a mobo temp idle at 35-36C and peak with orthos at 45-46... that sounds like a CPU to me but idk...


PC Probe reads temps from your CPU from underneath it, while Speedfan and Coretemp reads temps from the cores itself.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


getting crashes related to sound drivers. computer will just reset itself entirely at random. Microsoft says that windows recovered from a serious error, when I report it they say the problem is related to audio software...am removing all sound drivers and sound apps that have ever been installed here. What I'm needing to do is use the on-board sound with my 5.1ch ss....which audio driver is best to use for this?

edit: I get the windows has recovered from a serious error message every time I reboot, not just on crashes. MS says its audio software related even when there are no drivers installed and windows keeps saying it found new hardware due to lack of driver installation


I find the drivers that came with my board are the best, as trying to use the "updated" sound drivers from Asus's site screwed up my audio. I got a X-Fi now though, which is far better anyway.


----------



## hometoast

Ok FINALLY!

7 hours 13 minutes stable at 3.00 ghz. Nothing earth shattering normally, but this is my first stable overclock of any speed.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


No Quad will do more than 3.0Ghz on this board.


Not true.....Not that getting above 3.0 will be easy, but it is possible.

Firstly, I suspect that the Q6700 or one of the QX6xx0s can certainly break 3.0.

Second, I broke the 3.0GHz mark by going 350*9=3.15GHz. At the time, I was still testing out how the G0 reponds to temps Vs Voltages on the stock cooler, and was unable to go any higher. 333*9 was a good stable clock to stick with @3.0.

Now that I've done a few mods and installed better cooling I guess I'll have to re-prove that a Q6600 CAN go more than 3.0GHz on the P5Ne-SLI.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MuffDiver*


dude im at 3.2ghz at 1.5v 10 hours stable 34c idle 56c load
turn your vcore up to 1.45 and your NB core at 1.563
a q6600 g0 should do 3.2 no problem


Dude...You have a C2D, we have a C2Q which has 2X the amount of transistors on die. This makes it not only a question of Vcore, but Icore as well. Icore is not measured by any program I know of- You have to use a multimeter to check ampreages. There is quite a bit of speculation that the 3-phase VRM design on this board is inadequate to supply enough current to keep stable voltages for a C2Q setup. My obeservations suggest as you increase the voltage for Vcore (or Vdimm) the VNB is reduced, which indicates a lack of adequate amperage.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


Did everything you suggested, I can't get past 1300Mhz FSB have tried 1350/1360/1370Mhz to see if I could POST, but seems my hole is pretty wide. My memory is unlinked and keeping at stock speed and timings (667 5-5-5-20) is that a problem?? At least I'm back to where I was last night, but I had to raise my NB to 1.563V to get there and last evening I didn't. Thanks for the help MD!!!


I know it sounds crazy, but try finding your lowest stable Vcore and Vdimm for 1300FSB before going higher. Also try running at the 1333FSB- that wil give you a 2:1 ratio for your RAM, which should be a very stable setting for your RAM:NB strap. I actually needed higher voltages to run 1300 than at 1333.


----------



## Mercsenary

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
There is a chip on the motherboard (it looks exactly like an SODIMM except pink)...it should be seated in between the 2 PCIE slots. Just make sure that the side that says "Single Video Card" is the end that is inserted into the slot, if its not, just power the PC off and flip it around









Tried that. Still no dice. It just powers on and then right back off.

Also... that didnt really answer my question. Thanks for trying though. So the motherboard is *not* compatible with non-sli videocards?


----------



## aleiro

you can run a non-sli video card in the mobo... thats why it has the redish pink thing. As for your problem, did you try the card in another pc?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mercsenary*


Tried that. Still no dice. It just powers on and then right back off.

Also... that didnt really answer my question. Thanks for trying though. So the motherboard is *not* compatible with non-sli videocards?


----------



## Mercsenary

reddish pink thing? You mean the SLI card that you need to switch around if I'm using SLI? It was on single video mode when I tried to boot it. And yes, the card does work on another mobo. Though earlier in the year, it was doing the same thing to my old mobo. Fixed itself after I left it alone for a day.

More detail: It worked once. Then, when I brought it back to my room and tried it, it didnt boot. It powered on then right back off. Didnt even get to the splash screen for the mobo. Tried it with PCI card. Worked fine. Tried messing with the BIOS setting for primary display adapter, no dice. Didnt work either way.


----------



## degziebob

I have my Q6600 G0 running 100% stable at 2.75Ghz with 4x1GB reaper memory. Temps are low, I can't remember exactly but I think voltages etc are all stock.

I'm trying to get 3.0Ghz .. but having problems. I read the Oclock guide (very good) & was able to find a FSB that actually posted - 375. (300,333 - no post). I am able to get into Vista (x64 ultimate) with my 4 sticks of ram at 3Ghz (8x375).. temps are good but it locks up after about 10mins on Prime95. I have vcore at 1.35 +100Mv & NB set to 1.5 but the NB is damn hot.

I've ordered a replacement NB cooler as I think that's just too hot & may be causing a problem. I did get 9x375 (3.375Ghz) to post but it wouldn't get past it...

Memory set to 5-5-5-15 & tried various volatges. I Had to set memory down to about 730Mhz to get it to run a 3Ghz....hmmm

To summarise this board sucks with G6600







but I suppose i shouldn't complain too much ... something is better than nothing.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *degziebob*


I have my Q6600 G0 running 100% stable at 2.75Ghz with 4x1GB reaper memory. Temps are low, I can't remember exactly but I think voltages etc are all stock.

Memory set to 5-5-5-15 & tried various volatges. I Had to set memory down to about 730Mhz to get it to run a 3Ghz....hmmm

To summarise this board sucks with G6600







but I suppose i shouldn't complain too much ... something is better than nothing.


Yea, it's tough to get above the 3GHz mark with a Q6600 and this board. I see that you can post @ 375 but not @ 333.....interesting. Makes me think it is a RAM issue. Running 4 DIMMS will definitely strain both your NB and VRM regulators.

A couple of things you can try- Use 2 DIMMS instead of 4. This is the preferred OCer setup. Also try underclocking your RAM to an even ratio- ie 3:1, 2:1, 5:4 instead of trying to run an odd divider like 16:17 or 9:32, then reduce your Vdimm as much as feasable to keep you stable. To calculate take the QDR divide by 4.....This is your effective bus, multiply by 2 for DDR.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again......This board lacks adequate current (amperage) regulation to really support a good OC on a quad. Keeping all your voltages as low as possible should help achieve a better OC than blindly increasing voltages to achieve stability. Find your lowest voltages for STOCK speeds, increase from there.


----------



## degziebob

RAVIN - any chance you can post your Vcore/NB settings... I'll remove 2Gig & try it out.


----------



## aleiro

Dude the card is busted... you should have said it happened once before in your first post... you can stop posting about it now and buy a new card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mercsenary*


reddish pink thing? You mean the SLI card that you need to switch around if I'm using SLI? It was on single video mode when I tried to boot it. And yes, the card does work on another mobo. Though earlier in the year, it was doing the same thing to my old mobo. Fixed itself after I left it alone for a day.

More detail: It worked once. Then, when I brought it back to my room and tried it, it didnt boot. It powered on then right back off. Didnt even get to the splash screen for the mobo. Tried it with PCI card. Worked fine. Tried messing with the BIOS setting for primary display adapter, no dice. Didnt work either way.


----------



## aleiro

you might need more voltage try 1.375 but dont go any higher (well you can its your comp, but thats at your own risk)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


Both are disabled, set the Vcore in BIOS to approx. 1.32V and Vcore in system is @1.296 on boot?? It's almost like I have a new CPU in this thing. Have turned all my fans OFF and cannot get this thing to idle higher than 42C, last night Idle was about the same with Fans running full bore. I cannot go 1hz higher than 1200Mhz on FSB or it will freeze, last night was at 1300Mhz without a hitch???


----------



## ru7hl355

just updated to the new bios 0801 or something. and i ran Aquamark and got this:









before the update i was getting 129k>134k:S

this board has impressed me more and more everyday!


----------



## ru7hl355

just ran 3d mark aswell.










thats on my safe OC 600/900 i can go to 625/950 so dunno what i will get :S

cpu aint exactly OC'd either only 2.61ghz...

my advice, upgrade to 0801 rofl!


----------



## Ajimboalogo

I have tried to pump up my FSB past 1300Mhz and cannot be done. I was thinking it was temp issue, and the C2Q was throttling at anything past that mark. I checked my temps in Core Temp, Asus Probe, and SpeedFan. What I found was a huge discrepency between all three. From the forums, it is clear to me that the Core Temp readings are probably the most accurate, but why the constant 15C difference between CT and SF?? I have gone back to stock to figure this out (Was hitting 80C under load according to Core Temp)...maybe a good cpu and HS lapping is in order?? Thanks again for your help!!

Attachment 59739


----------



## MuffDiver

im using 0608 are you saying flash the bios
are your 3dmark scores going up
will i have to overclock my system again


----------



## MuffDiver

anybody else try 0801


----------



## aleiro

I found this at the Asus forum:

Hi guys,

Sense i've seen fairly many people havening similar problems overclocking The Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard I feel obligated to share my new findings, so here goes...

The two last days I've been trying to figure out the problem behind why i couldn't overclock my new Intel Quad Q6600 on the ASUS P5N-E SLi motherboard. And i finally know the answer.
With the 0608 bios that is needed too support the new Intel Quad Q6600 rev. G0 i had this irritating phenomenon. Every time I rebooted my PC wouldn't start. Too fix this I had to remove the power cord and try too boot the system back up. On the second try in most cases the system booted up and continued its way on to windows. Finally in windows the system was stable and continued in this way. So the only thing now driveing me crazy was every system reboot! =p

I started updating too different bios ones again but non of them would keep the system stable well inside windows, and the boot up problem was still there. But i was determent to isolate the problem so i started to look real close on what changed after every bios update and it was a really simple change.

In bios 0703 under Advanced/CPU Configuration ASUS had made a change too have 
- CPU Internal Terminal Control too default enabled, and with this enable overclocking would fail and system would either hang or give blue screen during Prime95 torture test (with is a program for checking if your system is stable) at least this was the problem for me. But with - CPU Internal Terminal Control Disabled and the 0703 bios that doesn't suffer from the reboot problem my system is now running at 41% overclock and is very stable. More on my settings will follow for the ones interested let me know









IF you try it let me know how it works out.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


I have tried to pump up my FSB past 1300Mhz and cannot be done. I was thinking it was temp issue, and the C2Q was throttling at anything past that mark. I checked my temps in Core Temp, Asus Probe, and SpeedFan. What I found was a huge discrepency between all three. From the forums, it is clear to me that the Core Temp readings are probably the most accurate, but why the constant 15C difference between CT and SF?? I have gone back to stock to figure this out (Was hitting 80C under load according to Core Temp)...maybe a good cpu and HS lapping is in order?? Thanks again for your help!!

Attachment 59739


----------



## ru7hl355

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MuffDiver* 
im using 0608 are you saying flash the bios
are your 3dmark scores going up
will i have to overclock my system again

i upgraded because my system was hanging a bit due to my razer copperhead.

just got these other benefits too.

i only flashed it today, so give it a few days and i will post back if i have any problems with it.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MuffDiver* 
anybody else try 0801


I just installed 0801 from 0608 and haven't noticed much of a difference. Thanks for doing that leg work aleiro!! Gonna check out the BIOS and see if they have kept that the same in 0801. I'm gonna beat this thing if it kills me....but then again, wouldn't that mean it beat me?? I wanna go back to my C2D, but I cannot believe how much of a workhorse the C2Q is!!!! I cannot bring it to it's knees!!!! No matter what I throw at it. Cheers!!!

Well, I'm slowly tweaking my FSB up...at 1200Mhz and seems very stable...but temps are hitting 70C under load (but no higher) I heard people running their C2Q's at 80C + for hours (apparently so was I when I was using SpeedFan to monitor temps!!!) Nothing spectacular yet to report with 0801 however.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *degziebob*


RAVIN - any chance you can post your Vcore/NB settings... I'll remove 2Gig & try it out.


Vcore @ 1.22V, VID=1.2875.....seriously undervolted.
VNB 1.56V, Vdimm 2.17V

Remember that my memory is rated for 1000MHz/2.2V. If you are running DDR2 667-800 speeds Vdimm of 1.9 or less may be sufficient.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


Well, I'm slowly tweaking my FSB up...at 1200Mhz and seems very stable...but temps are hitting 70C under load (but no higher) I heard people running their C2Q's at 80C + for hours (apparently so was I when I was using SpeedFan to monitor temps!!!) Nothing spectacular yet to report with 0801 however.


If you have the GO stepping, which I'm sure you have.
The max rated temp for the Q6600 GO stepping is 71 degress.

Q6600 GO Specs

My Pentium D 805's max temp is 64.1 and I load at 63/64 sometimes on a hot day.







But my CPU is still running fine.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
If you have the GO stepping, which I'm sure you have.
The max rated temp for the Q6600 GO stepping is 71 degress.

Q6600 GO Specs

My Pentium D 805's max temp is 64.1 and I load at 63/64 sometimes on a hot day.







But my CPU is still running fine.









ya...you can go over spec for a _short_ time....heck I ran my 820 @ ~70C during the summer months.....of course it died after 3 summers of abuse.


----------



## degziebob

Vcore @ 1.22V, VID=1.2875.....seriously undervolted.
VNB 1.56V, Vdimm 2.17V

Thx, will try it. As soon as I got the board I upped it to bios 801.. but then went to 0608 after I read this board. Last night I just could not get it to boot at 1225/800 with my 4x1Gb diims. If I removed two it booted.. so I went screw it & went back to 0801 & the 4 DIMMS work again... weird.

I'm now at stock 2.4Ghz for now until I get my replace NB cooler... Then I'll go back to 2.75Ghz ... & if I feel brave try getting 3Ghz stable at a FSB of 375 (it froze after 10mins prime95).

btw - did you have the +100 manually set or auto?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *degziebob*


Vcore @ 1.22V, VID=1.2875.....seriously undervolted.
VNB 1.56V, Vdimm 2.17V

Thx, will try it. As soon as I got the board I upped it to bios 801.. but then went to 0608 after I read this board. Last night I just could not get it to boot at 1225/800 with my 4x1Gb diims. If I removed two it booted.. so I went screw it & went back to 0801 & the 4 DIMMS work again... weird.

I'm now at stock 2.4Ghz for now until I get my replace NB cooler... Then I'll go back to 2.75Ghz ... & if I feel brave try getting 3Ghz stable at a FSB of 375 (it froze after 10mins prime95).

btw - did you have the +100 manually set or auto?


The NB cooler should be sufficient to cool the chip- although you probably need to reseat it with AS5 as ASUS does a crappy job with crappy paste. You can also lap the back side of it- there are some really deep gouges in mine. I only plan to swap my NB HS for looks....

hmmm...good luck with 0801 eh? I had alot of problems with 0703- 0801 was not supposed to be that much different from 0703. I'm happy with 0608, although if there are enough folks happy with 0801 I may switch.

My +100mV is set to Auto- which in older BIOSes was "off". If you're having stability problems where you are pretty sure voltage may be the issue, drop the Vcore by 50mV and turn on the +100mV. This should offer cleaner power- and you really should not need it until you hit the 1.35V range IMO.


----------



## Ajimboalogo

I ran 0801 for about 2 hours before reverting to 0703. After changing FSB even a few Mhz, I couldn't POST and had to clear CMOS 3 times. Unplugging the power cord and draining the caps didn't work. 0703 seems the most stable on my system right now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
If you have the GO stepping, which I'm sure you have.
The max rated temp for the Q6600 GO stepping is 71 degress.

Q6600 GO Specs

My Pentium D 805's max temp is 64.1 and I load at 63/64 sometimes on a hot day.







But my CPU is still running fine.









I'm actually running C2Q with B3 stepping!!!! Just couldn't wait, got more money than brains my friend!!!!


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


I'm actually running C2Q with B3 stepping!!!! Just couldn't wait, got more money than brains my friend!!!!


























In that case, it's a mere 62.2 degrees max temp.


----------



## ru7hl355

got some pc8500 ballistix coming, can i just bump up the memory speed to 1066 and be free from any issues on this mobo?

sorry if its a stupid question, just i normally buy the rated memory i.e. pc6400 for mobo's i buy but wanted something faster...


----------



## Blizzie

Can anyone here recommend Northbridge cooler? ASUS Probe reports the "MB Temperature" at 32 C. The cooler needs to fit alongside my Thermaltake V1 CPU Cooler.

Does this overclock sound about right?

3200 MHz
1422 FSB
1.350 VCore (perhaps one notch lower)
Northbridge voltage = 1.563
Loads at 40 C. Idle 23-24 C.

But if I drop it down one level..

3000 MHz
1333 FSB
1.300 VCore
NB Voltage: 1.393
Idle: 21-22 C. Load: 31-33 C.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


got some pc8500 ballistix coming, can i just bump up the memory speed to 1066 and be free from any issues on this mobo?

sorry if its a stupid question, just i normally buy the rated memory i.e. pc6400 for mobo's i buy but wanted something faster...


Should be no problem at all. Just be sure that after you install them to manually set the voltages and timings in BIOS, as it's likely going to be detected as PC6400 RAM by default. I believe that you should be set to 2.17V and safe timings should be around 5-5-5-15 2T, although you can probably tighten them significantly.

I have the PC2/8000 ballistix, which have the same IC as the PC2/8500 modules. I was able to run 1066MHz 4-3-3-6 2T when I was running 1:1 with the CPU, but had to drop to 1000MHz when OC'd.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Can anyone here recommend Northbridge cooler? ASUS Probe reports the "MB Temperature" at 32 C. The cooler needs to fit alongside my Thermaltake V1 CPU Cooler.

Does this overclock sound about right?


I like THIS ONE, although your temps are fine. Anything under 50C is surely within nVidia specs. The stock cooler has plenty of surface area, it just needs to be lapped and reseated with AS5 (or at least reseated with AS5, which is what I did) for optimal performance. The only reason to swap coolers is vanity IMO.....and eventually I will put something copper on my NB


----------



## ru7hl355

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Should be no problem at all. Just be sure that after you install them to manually set the voltages and timings in BIOS, as it's likely going to be detected as PC6400 RAM by default. I believe that you should be set to 2.17V and safe timings should be around 5-5-5-15 2T, although you can probably tighten them significantly.

I have the PC2/8000 ballistix, which have the same IC as the PC2/8500 modules. I was able to run 1066MHz 4-3-3-6 2T when I was running 1:1 with the CPU, but had to drop to 1000MHz when OC'd.


so is it best to run linked with this stuff?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



I like THIS ONE, although your temps are fine. Anything under 50C is surely within nVidia specs. The stock cooler has plenty of surface area, it just needs to be lapped and reseated with AS5 (or at least reseated with AS5, which is what I did) for optimal performance. The only reason to swap coolers is vanity IMO.....and eventually I will put something copper on my NB










Heard a lot of good things about that cooler but I also hear the fan fails after a while. Maybe I can strap on a fan to my NB Heatsink since it's so huge.

Take a look in the attachment. How high can this so called "MB Temperature" (which no ones know how it's calculated) can go? I can't hold my finger on the NB Heatsink for more than a few seconds.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


so is it best to run linked with this stuff?


well...that depends on how you want your system to perform. I got better performance from my memory at 1066 (linked 1:1 with the CPU) than at 1000 (unlinked w/ CPU OC), but better over all performance with my CPU overclocked 25% and my RAM at stock DDR speed. if I could run my RAM linked 1:1 at 1333 fsb, that would be ideal, I just dont see it happening.

If you can get your RAM and CPU linked with a good OC go for it, however your CPU will likely go much faster than your RAM. If you are trying to OC the ram 1:1 with the CPU, you will likely need to loosen the RAM timings to achieve higher MHz and possibly raise the voltage for the RAM as well.

So that said...slower DDR/tighter timings vs hihger DDR/looser timings:
Honestly from my experience, you'll likely see better performance at a near stock DDR with tighter timings than you will with the higher DDR unless you get a phenominal OC.....like if I could run 1:1 @ 1333MHz 6-6-6-24/31

Also....the gap between settings for Vdimm on this board is pretty big- I believe from 2.17 to 2.39. the higher voltage setting is higher than what is "safe" for most DDR2 modules IMO.


----------



## ru7hl355

ok thanks, just what i needed to know









+REP


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Take a look in the attachment. How high can this so called "MB Temperature" (which no ones know how it's calculated) can go? I can't hold my finger on the NB Heatsink for more than a few seconds.



Theoretically...well... I dunno. 60C is probably pushing over the limit, again under 50C is good. It's a good thing that your heatsink is hot- that means it's doing it's job







Before I reseated my NB I was ~42-45C and it was just warm to the touch. After I re-seated the block w/AS5 I saw a 15C drop, although it also was influenced by increased case flow from the new Zalman. Now my HS is very hot to the touch, although the MB temp went way down.

Yea, the cheapest, easiest way to go is to strap a fan to the existing HS.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
Dude i read your other post... send it back and say it died. Then tell them you dont understand this new fangled computer stuff. Which is true because you dont know allll there is to know (neither do i for that matter)... And if he asks you what bios you had say you think it was 11 and that should stop any further questions...lol. With the money you save go buy the other mobo and now you have two systems!!! I am all ready getting excited, you just cant tell because i am typing.

....plus making panicking beeping sounds (my machine, not me), <--- that is funny as hell

It's the right thing to just live with the consequences of your actions and if that means paying out for a new mobo, so be it. The fact is that I ****ed up and wrongly put my trust in a bit of kit which has cost me severely. Paying out another Â£75 -Â£125 for a new mobo is just a hazard of tinkering. Through life experience, you'll learn that being honest is far easier than being dishonest. I don't respect dishonesty in others and wouldn't respect it in myself. I'll be ordering a board 2mrw, I think. It may even be another P5N-E SLI....there are pros and cons to any board. I've got used to this board but that is as good a reason to change as any.

"Which is true because you dont know allll there is to know (neither do i for that matter)... " ........Nobody does, it's a fact of being human. That's no reason to lie. There is this thing called integrity....

Somebody who calls himself a master has a lot to learn. Somebody who is a master will tell you he has a lot to learn.


----------



## aleiro

I got a new cooler and while i was installing it i decided to take the NB off aswell. To my surprise the thermal compound came off the chip and heatsink like dried toothpaste. Crusty and flaky... I reseated it with the antec silver compound and the NB is running 4C cooler at idle so if anyone is having heat problems on the NB then pop off the heat sink and check it out.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
I got a new cooler and while i was installing it i decided to take the NB. To my surprise the thermal compound came off the chip and heatsink like dried toothpaste. Crusty and flaky... I reseated it with the antec silver compound and the NB is running 4C cooler at idle so if anyone is having heat problems on the NB then pop off the heat sink and check it out.

Most of us are already running AS5 on the NB.
Been posted, back a few thousand posts.


----------



## O.Martini

Has anyone goten over the 345 FSB wall when using a q6600?








I can run my Q6600 stable at 333 FSB but as soon as i go over 345 FSB my system will not boot.









I have tried BIOS 0608,0703,0801 with the 0608 I can sucsessfully run 3Ghz but not whith 0703 or 0801...

Is there a fix for this? Does anyone know why this happends?
Is it because as many say lack of sufficient cooling on the NB?

Hope someone has the answer..

Martin


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *O.Martini*


Has anyone goten over the 345 FSB wall when using a q6600?








I can run my Q6600 stable at 333 FSB but as soon as i go over 345 FSB my system will not boot.









I have tried BIOS 0608,0703,0801 with the 0608 I can sucsessfully run 3Ghz but not whith 0703 or 0801...

Is there a fix for this? Does anyone know why this happends? 
Is it because as many say lack of sufficient cooling on the NB?

Hope someone has the answer..

Martin


this board is very hard to oc the quads... if you can go 3Ghz, it is very good already


----------



## degziebob

I'm giving up with my Q6600 on this board. It can get into Windows at 3GHZ but is unstable. I've just RMA'd it & will hopefully get something better, maybe an EVGA. With patience & a year off work I may get a FSB of 280 .. woohoho...

The kicker for me was when trying to find my ideal FSB, & it wouldn't boot, even with the 'features' it has to recover from this, I had to have the case open, move the jumper, wait & move it back....my fingers nails canne take it captain as they put it in a stupid bloody place!!! The NB not being seated properly with thermal paste ... the Bios is crappy....

There are thing I do like with this board & for non Quaddies it sounds great .. but for me it was just too frustrating.... RIP P5N-E Sli... & good riddience.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *degziebob*


I'm giving up with my Q6600 on this board. It can get into Windows at 3GHZ but is unstable. I've just RMA'd it & will hopefully get something better, maybe an EVGA. With patience & a year off work I may get a FSB of 280 .. woohoho...

The kicker for me was when trying to find my ideal FSB, & it wouldn't boot, even with the 'features' it has to recover from this, I had to have the case open, move the jumper, wait & move it back....my fingers nails canne take it captain as they put it in a stupid bloody place!!! The NB not being seated properly with thermal paste ... the Bios is crappy....

There are thing I do like with this board & for non Quaddies it sounds great .. but for me it was just too frustrating.... RIP P5N-E Sli... & good riddience.

















i was thinking of getting the Q6600... now im still observing.... hope ASUS put up an update on BIOS to make the quads roar on this board !!!!!


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


i was thinking of getting the Q6600... now im still observing.... hope ASUS put up an update on BIOS to make the quads roar on this board !!!!!


They wont, all Asus boards have this problem.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


They wont, all Asus boards have this problem.


*** with asus !!!


----------



## Asce

Plus its not to do with the BIOS its a problem with the board itself.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *O.Martini*


Has anyone goten over the 345 FSB wall when using a q6600?










I hit 350*9=3.15, but was not safe with the stock cooler, nor was it exactly stable either.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


i was thinking of getting the Q6600... now im still observing.... hope ASUS put up an update on BIOS to make the quads roar on this board !!!!!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Plus its not to do with the BIOS its a problem with the board itself.


Beat me to it...
It has nothing to do with the BIOS and everything to do with it being a cheap 3-phase VRM power supply. The pencil mod/Vdroop mod may help, but thats about it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


this board is very hard to oc the quads... if you can go 3Ghz, it is very good already


 Yup. Second that.


----------



## degziebob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


i was thinking of getting the Q6600... now im still observing.... hope ASUS put up an update on BIOS to make the quads roar on this board !!!!!


I'll report back next week with my new board... If you have a Quad don't buy this piece of $hit. Save your sanity.... You don't need a BIOS update.... you need a BOARD update.


----------



## Christiaan

I was hoping the Q6600 will overclock to atleast 350FSB on this board. Guess I'm sticking with my current CPU. I reckon it'll do okay with my upcoming 8800GT. (SLI possibly later)

Sometime in the future I guess I'll just get a whole new rig.

It's too bad, I was looking forward to going quad... perhaps one of the newer quads coming out will overclock better since it is 45nm and uses less power?


----------



## degziebob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I was hoping the Q6600 will overclock to atleast 350FSB on this board. Guess I'm sticking with my current CPU. I reckon it'll do okay with my upcoming 8800GT. (SLI possibly later)

Sometime in the future I guess I'll just get a whole new rig.

It's too bad, I was looking forward to going quad... perhaps one of the newer quads coming out will overclock better since it is 45nm and uses less power?

If you are going stock speed with a 8800GT (which I have) then I get around 11,200 3dmakr06.... I have an Inno 8800GT .. with the card overclocked I get just under 12k which is still pretty good.


----------



## slaney30

Anyone had problems with post hanging after Bios update?


----------



## ru7hl355

ayep, reverted back to 0608.

the new 0801 bios was SUPPOSED to stop hanging with a razor copperhead install, in reality it done **** all to stop it. pissed me off having to unplug the mouse everytime i cold booted!


----------



## amish

Hi, i got a problem with my P5N-E SLI..

I got "Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's" and if i try to use dual-channel i endup with a bluescreen or that the system locks 10seks after windows loads.

Hope some may help, may aswell post my specs:
Windows Vista Ultimate 64bit
Intel C2D E6600 2.4ghz @ 3.2ghz
Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's
Asus P5N-E SLI
XFX Nvidia 8800GTS

Pic of CPUZ Mainboard.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5...ard3208ps7.png


----------



## aleiro

did you set your timings and voltage?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amish*


Hi, i got a problem with my P5N-E SLI..

I got "Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's" and if i try to use dual-channel i endup with a bluescreen or that the system locks 10seks after windows loads.

Hope some may help, may aswell post my specs:
Windows Vista Ultimate 64bit
Intel C2D E6600 2.4ghz @ 3.2ghz
Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's
Asus P5N-E SLI
XFX Nvidia 8800GTS

Pic of CPUZ Mainboard.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5...ard3208ps7.png


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


ayep, reverted back to 0608.

the new 0801 bios was SUPPOSED to stop hanging with a razor copperhead install, in reality it done **** all to stop it. pissed me off having to unplug the mouse everytime i cold booted!


Yea Same thing. It would still hang with the copperhead mouse so I reverted back to 0703. It said it flashed correctly, but now all I get is the Splash Screen and it wont go further. I cannot enter the bios, and a cmos reset doesnt do anything either. I tried different ram, and even taking the battery out of the mobo. Still cannot get it to boot. I'm really frustrated with Asus products right now. This is my 3rd Asus mobo in 1 1/2 years. Anybody have any ideas? or do you think I'll have to RMA my p5e-sli?


----------



## amish

My memory timings is at 5-5-5-12-2T
Memory voltage is at auto

If you think about my CPU, i still got the problem with default settings in bios.


----------



## aleiro

Set your voltage manually. I.e. if the ram calls for 2.0-2.1 then set 2.08 in the bios. If it is 1.8-2.0 set it to 1.92 in the bios

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amish*


My memory timings is at 5-5-5-12-2T
Memory voltage is at auto

If you think about my CPU, i still got the problem with default settings in bios.


----------



## MuffDiver

anybody do Mosfet Cooling on the P5N-E SLI
PM me if so... i have some questions. Did it help w/ stability? and which sinks did you use?
thanks


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MuffDiver*


anybody do Mosfet Cooling on the P5N-E SLI
PM me if so... i have some questions. Did it help w/ stability? and which sinks did you use?
thanks


I did since i moved to watercooling.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amish*


Hi, i got a problem with my P5N-E SLI..

I got "Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's" and if i try to use dual-channel i endup with a bluescreen or that the system locks 10seks after windows loads.

Hope some may help, may aswell post my specs:
Windows Vista Ultimate 64bit
Intel C2D E6600 2.4ghz @ 3.2ghz
Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2, 2048MB CL5 Kit w/two matched CM2X1024A-6400 Dimm's
Asus P5N-E SLI
XFX Nvidia 8800GTS

Pic of CPUZ Mainboard.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5...ard3208ps7.png



standard answer is:
Set your timings and voltage manually in the BIOS. Set a 2T command rate.
Try the other pair of slots.


----------



## amish

thanks for the help







Works like a sharm.. Got my Vista rating from 5.0 to 5.9


----------



## quakermaas

I put a few(6) OCZ copper ram sinks on the Mosfets, had them from a few years ago when i had them on a fx5700 ultra.I have felt them a few times to see if there was much heat, and there was nothing at all.
Running a 1840 fsb at the minute, but i have had it boot at 1960 but didn't do any testing.Am using water cooling on the north bridge and cpu, so not much air flow around the cpu area, thought it safer to fit the heat sinks.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
It's too bad, I was looking forward to going quad... perhaps one of the newer quads coming out will overclock better since it is 45nm and uses less power?

Doubtful on this board. While the 45nm runs on lower voltage, it has a comperable TDP to the 65nm quad. I suspect that while it runs lower voltage, it will require higher ampreage.

Think of it this way....Watts(TDP)=Volts(Vcore)* Amps(Icore). If Wattage (TDP) remains constant and voltage is decreased, amperage must increase.


----------



## slaney30

Is there a better option than the p5n-e sli for running SLI with a LGA775 Chip? I have had nothing but problems with this board and my E2160 Cpu.


----------



## ru7hl355

whats the standard voltage for the NB onthe p5n?

also, i noticed that my current memory isnt compatible with this mobo, OCZ platinum rev.1

what sorts of issues would this cause?

i have some ballistix waiting to go in, but just curious.

thanks


----------



## aleiro

if you set the NB to auto it is equal to 1.25v. I think if you set the ram then it should work fine but problems with bad ram are like random resets and freezes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ru7hl355* 
whats the standard voltage for the NB onthe p5n?

also, i noticed that my current memory isnt compatible with this mobo, OCZ platinum rev.1

what sorts of issues would this cause?

i have some ballistix waiting to go in, but just curious.

thanks


----------



## Ihatethedukes

How does this board do overclocking the Q6600's? I'm really not sold on this whole SLI chipset thing. But since I acquired TWO 8800GTs I am wondering if it'd be worth my time to put up with an nVidia chipset just for them? Should I just keep my 975X board and split up the cards between my rigs?

Damn it.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ihatethedukes*


How does this board do overclocking the Q6600's? I'm really not sold on this whole SLI chipset thing. But since I acquired TWO 8800GTs I am wondering if it'd be worth my time to put up with an nVidia chipset just for them? Should I just keep my 975X board and split up the cards between my rigs?

Damn it.


Not to weel on this board, but go for an EVGA 6801 A1 or the XFX and you will OC a Quad just fine.


----------



## degziebob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ihatethedukes*


How does this board do overclocking the Q6600's? I'm really not sold on this whole SLI chipset thing. But since I acquired TWO 8800GTs I am wondering if it'd be worth my time to put up with an nVidia chipset just for them? Should I just keep my 975X board and split up the cards between my rigs?

Damn it.


Read thru the last couple of pages on this thread = not good. I had mine <1 week & am sending it back.. I had lots of weird issues & having to reset that damned bios via the jumper was pain in itself. I'd be happy with it 'just' running at 3Ghz ...

btw - I bought a Inno 8800GT with this board & a friend bought 2 !!.. He gave me one to try &, like his other ASUS board, he gets <10% bump in 3DMark 2006 .. lol







.. but he did say some games are a wee bit faster... probaby driver probs... My new board isn't SLi.... I'd rather get a good card now & then swap with the latest good card rather than 2 cards now & ditch em later... Whatever rocks your boat I suppose!


----------



## Blizzie

I'm having a hard time getting my E6600 to reach 3400 MHz.

Running Orthos right now at 3300 MHz with 366 x 9. FSB of 1466.
My VCore is at 1.4v and NB is at 1.563.

Is it safe running the NB at the 1.7 voltage? I don't think I can hit my 3400 MHz without taking it up to that level.

Edit: Also any ideas on how to strap a small fan onto the NB without screwing it into the heatsink itself? ASUS Probe reads 31C. But I can't even hold my finger on it for 3 seconds.. Kind of worried. Running at 1.563V.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Edit: Also any ideas on how to strap a small fan onto the NB without screwing it into the heatsink itself? ASUS Probe reads 31C. But I can't even hold my finger on it for 3 seconds.. Kind of worried. Running at 1.563V.


Means it's working good, all the heat is being extracted by the heatsink. Don't worry about it.


----------



## cybershark5886

I finally got my system up and running, and it works like a charm. I have tried in vain to make the system lag and get the CPU to run over 41 degrees Celcius (that's good news). However I have an unexpected problem with the USB ports. Once the computer is on, it refuses to detect any new USB devices. If I plug in my mouse after it boots nothing happens. The only way I can get the USB mouse to be detected is to boot with it plugged in. If it is working and then I quickly unplug it and immediately plug it right back in it will not detect it. Same for my USB printer. I didn't see a setting in the BIOS to fix this. What can I do?

Thanks,

~Josh


----------



## ru7hl355

having a weird problem, when i boot up i get a slight pause of a few seconds where the memory check starts. any reason for this?

its used to start up really quickly!


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


having a weird problem, when i boot up i get a slight pause of a few seconds where the memory check starts. any reason for this?

its used to start up really quickly!


Mine has always taken a couple of seconds before I get the "OK" beep. Is that what you're talking about?

I've got a question too...has anyone tried the 0801 BIOS? If so, is it any good?


----------



## ru7hl355

well yeh a slight pause, its done it ever since i upgraded from 0505 bios to 0608. i dint reset the cmos before i done it, will that be the problem?


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Nah, if it's booting alright now, failing to clear the CMOS didn't hurt anything.


----------



## ru7hl355

its just annoying cause i have just built my brothers rig, running on same bios/board and it has past that boot up stage by the time the monitor turns on


----------



## ru7hl355

Never mind figured it out, had flashed the bios back to 0608 after trying 0801. but didnt clear CMOS










but while im posting, people with ballistix pc8500 memory.









can you tell me if i will be able to crank these badboys up to the rated 1066 without affecting any stability with the mobo? and what sorta things will i need to do to get them working or can i just them straight in since the memory i have runs a 2.2v anyways

thanks


----------



## Ajimboalogo

I'm giving up on OC'ng my Q6600...gonna get a G0 next week and see if I can get more out of it....will not go over 2.92Ghz. Was only getting increase of 69 pts in 3DMark05 (from 10484 to 10553) . Put in a second NX8600GT and now 3DMark05 14,023 and 3DMark06 9,409. Gonna start overclocking them to see what else I can wring out of them. Bought an Antec P182 case and everything running alot cooler, what an awesome case, definitely worth looking at.

Attachment 60050


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slaney30*


Is there a better option than the p5n-e sli for running SLI with a LGA775 Chip? I have had nothing but problems with this board and my E2160 Cpu.


hey dude, our lovely board P5N-E SLI runs fine with SLI setup !!!! LVOE IT


----------



## cybershark5886

Can anyone give me some input on the problem with the USB ports I mentioned on the last page? I'd appreciate it a lot.

Thanks,

~Josh


----------



## cybershark5886

So why are the core & memory voltages dropped rather than increased for OCing? Somewhere I read that the higher the voltage on a chip the faster speed you can accomplish, and that that is how companies can sell the same chip to run at different "stock" values. Is that information incorrect?

~Josh


----------



## butteredtoast

hey was just wondering if this is by chance a good board to try water cooling on.... been thinking about maybe going that route but i thouht i'd maybe see if its a good idea for the board or if its better to just stick to fans

if anyone knows of some good watercooling units too that would be great

Thanks, 
Scott


----------



## ru7hl355

im in the opposite boat, when i do its first boot in the morning it sometimes wont go past the cpu detection till i unplug my mouse:S


----------



## ru7hl355

anyone have issued with the system not booting fulyl when USB devices are isntalled running 0608 bios? i know 0703 causes problems but thought 0608 was ok.


----------



## wajubalo

Alright, this is a massive thread, and I can't read through all of it. But I'll get straight to my point.









With Q6600 being the trend of late, I recently picked up this board, a Q6600 and a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 with a 120mm Fan.

These are my exact specs:

P5N-E SLI (Flashed with latest Bios)| 
Q6600 Go| 
Thermalright HR05-SLI NB HS | 
Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 | 
OCZ 4GB Platinum Rev 2 800MHz| 
EVGA 8800GTX
OCZ GameXstream 700w |
500GB Spin Point Samsung | 
DIY Case | 
3D Mark 06: 12,226

Now, I'm quite new to this overclocking business, and so I've just simply used the AI overclock at 15% which has comfortably given me a stable overclock equating to:

Core speed: 2759.4 MHz
and Memory clocked at 940Mhz. 
Ram timings are 4-3-4-12

This is all with AI overclock. But this isn't good enough for me. I know I can go much further. I keep hearing people reaching speeds up to 4Ghz with my cooler (but rare). I really have no idea how to start with manual overclocks, and I tried with little knowlege, and the result was bad plus it scared the hell out of me, as I'll explain later.

I want to reach at least 3.6Ghz core clock, 3.8 would be great - 4Ghz, would be marvelous.

I've attempted to overclock by upping to voltages and changing the FSB, but I must be doing something wrong. Because everytime I do it (even for mild overclocks), my computer won't get past post and I can't get back into the BIOS, which forces me to take the mobo battery out to reset the bios. This scared the hell out of me, because I actually didn't know how to reset the bios initially.

As such, I'm staying away from what I know little about. Until I am confident with some proper experienced knowlege, I'm not touching those settings manually again. At this point, I'm hoping for some good help/advice on the matter. I hope you guys will be able to help me.

Would so much appreciate it, if you fellow P5N-E SLI brethren would help me on this endeavor









A simple & nice, step by step on how overclocking works with this baby would be nice. Some results from guys with a Q6600 and this board and their results would also be sweet.

Please help me with this quest for glory. 
Much appreciated.

Thanks again folks for helping out this mobo's community - you've done a great service ^^,

Cheers.

Waj


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wajubalo* 
Alright, this is a massive thread, and I can't read through all of it. But I'll get straight to my point.









With Q6600 being the trend of late, I recently picked up this board, a Q6600 and a Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 with a 120mm Fan.


You might be able to cut down on your search if you look at all of Ravin's posts in this thread. He's the go-to guy about Q6600 on the P5N-E.


----------



## wajubalo

Thanks a lot.

Something smells like petrol...

Is it my computer?

***?

owwell.

Yeah, overclocking Q6600 has really been a painful activity today. Really have come to no success aside from a ****ty AI overclock of 15%.

Cheers,

Waj


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
You might be able to cut down on your search if you look at all of Ravin's posts in this thread. He's the go-to guy about Q6600 on the P5N-E.

lol...I think I must of got lucky with my board. I've actually been toying with the idea of upgrading to a P35 board and slapping this D820 into the P5NE.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wajubalo* 
Yeah, overclocking Q6600 has really been a painful activity today. Really have come to no success aside from a ****ty AI overclock of 15%.


Don't give up hope. Most OC attempts that fall within the statistical range of what is possible that fail are due to RAM. Make sure that your memory and CPU are unlinked with your RAM running at it's stock speed, and go for the best OC you can get on the CPU only. Once you've maxed out the CPU, then start adjusting the RAM.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
lol...I think I must of got lucky with my board. I've actually been toying with the idea of upgrading to a P35 board and slapping this D820 into the P5NE.

Don't give up hope. Most OC attempts that fall within the statistical range of what is possible that fail are due to RAM. Make sure that your memory and CPU are unlinked with your RAM running at it's stock speed, and go for the best OC you can get on the CPU only. Once you've maxed out the CPU, then start adjusting the RAM.

you are one lucky guy here


----------



## wajubalo

Thanks for the encouragement. lol.
Current settings

FSB: 306.6
Vcore: 1.392
Memory Voltage: 1.259
Mem (DDR) MHz: 919 .5
Timings: 4-3-4-12

Core: 2.759GHz
DDR2: 919.5

---

I've tried some other settings and boosting the Vcore and NB voltages, but to no avail - even for lower overclocks. The second most successful overclock, but didn't even boot to Windows was this:

FSB: 334.25
Vcore Voltage: 1.45625
DDR: (as above) (also tried stock settings, no luck)
NB Voltage: 1.563

As for the above, it gets to the screen where Vista is loading, but crashes there. I've tried bumping up the Vcore to 1.5v and Vcore voltage to 1.7 or so, but this just totally stops my computer at POST. Its not that the heat is too great, everything is running cool. I even have a room fan blowing into my case - core temps at idle are in the mid 20s.

I've tried lower overclocks and higher too, and they either don't boot into windows, or fail to post completely - leading me to reset the bios which is extremely tedious and frustrating. (btw, is there are easier way to reset bios without having to take the battery out?)

I really want to tinker with it, and overclock this thing to what people have done in the past, but I almost had a panic attack when my PC didn't post, so I decided not to tinker until I really know in detail, what the hell I'm doing. -_-"


----------



## aleiro

It isnt necessary to go over 1.5v on the core, if it wont boot on 1.44 then it is probably a no go anyway. Are you sure that is you mem voltage? And last i read some where for a quad that disabling the thermal control will help over clock it better, just remember to watch your temps untill you get it stable. See if it works and let me know.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wajubalo* 
Thanks for the encouragement. lol.
Current settings

FSB: 306.6
Vcore: 1.392
Memory Voltage: 1.259
Mem (DDR) MHz: 919 .5
Timings: 4-3-4-12

Core: 2.759GHz
DDR2: 919.5

---

I've tried some other settings and boosting the Vcore and NB voltages, but to no avail - even for lower overclocks. The second most successful overclock, but didn't even boot to Windows was this:

FSB: 334.25
Vcore Voltage: 1.45625
DDR: (as above) (also tried stock settings, no luck)
NB Voltage: 1.563

As for the above, it gets to the screen where Vista is loading, but crashes there. I've tried bumping up the Vcore to 1.5v and Vcore voltage to 1.7 or so, but this just totally stops my computer at POST. Its not that the heat is too great, everything is running cool. I even have a room fan blowing into my case - core temps at idle are in the mid 20s.

I've tried lower overclocks and higher too, and they either don't boot into windows, or fail to post completely - leading me to reset the bios which is extremely tedious and frustrating. (btw, is there are easier way to reset bios without having to take the battery out?)

I really want to tinker with it, and overclock this thing to what people have done in the past, but I almost had a panic attack when my PC didn't post, so I decided not to tinker until I really know in detail, what the hell I'm doing. -_-"


----------



## wajubalo

Sorry, my mem voltages are 2.259









I'll have another attempt. But almost giving up at this stage. Spent too long with no success. Also scared me a number of times.

I'm going to try to lower those voltages, underclock the ram under 800mhz, relax timing to 5-5-5-15, try an 8 times multiplier on 377 FSB. Maybe that'll come to some avail.

lol, hope for the best.

Cheers,

Waj


----------



## wajubalo

Just tried the above, and 377 FSB get's me to the Windows boot screen. Also tried underclocking mem to 600mhz, and relaxed timings - still no successful boot to windows..
I also tried a slightly lower FSB of 375 x9, but its strange, and couldn't even post. Had to take out the battery and slap it in again.

Anyhow, I think I'm going to give up until one day I have a new board. Slightly disappointed since this is my new computer and I prepared it with all the cooling required. Really expected at least 3.6GHz, didn't know I would struggle to get above a 15% overclock.

Ah well, my computer is stlil pretty good - get's 12,232 or something near to that in 3D mark 06.

Cheers guys,

Waj


----------



## aleiro

did you disable the thermal control?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wajubalo* 
Just tried the above, and 377 FSB get's me to the Windows boot screen. Also tried underclocking mem to 600mhz, and relaxed timings - still no successful boot to windows..
I also tried a slightly lower FSB of 375 x9, but its strange, and couldn't even post. Had to take out the battery and slap it in again.

Anyhow, I think I'm going to give up until one day I have a new board. Slightly disappointed since this is my new computer and I prepared it with all the cooling required. Really expected at least 3.6GHz, didn't know I would struggle to get above a 15% overclock.

Ah well, my computer is stlil pretty good - get's 12,232 or something near to that in 3D mark 06.

Cheers guys,

Waj


----------



## aleiro

also, you might be in a fsb hole, did you try 1600fsb? use 1.42v, if it doesnt boot there is no need to increase the voltage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wajubalo* 
Just tried the above, and 377 FSB get's me to the Windows boot screen. Also tried underclocking mem to 600mhz, and relaxed timings - still no successful boot to windows..
I also tried a slightly lower FSB of 375 x9, but its strange, and couldn't even post. Had to take out the battery and slap it in again.

Anyhow, I think I'm going to give up until one day I have a new board. Slightly disappointed since this is my new computer and I prepared it with all the cooling required. Really expected at least 3.6GHz, didn't know I would struggle to get above a 15% overclock.

Ah well, my computer is stlil pretty good - get's 12,232 or something near to that in 3D mark 06.

Cheers guys,

Waj


----------



## wajubalo

Yeah I heard about that hole and yes, indeed I tried disabling thermal control. The FSB hole is pretty tedious to get past, if there is one it seems very sporatic and just about everywhere. I'll try 1600 at 8x, but since that's 3.2Ghz, I doubt i'll have any luck. Like I said before, I should just settle with this board for the time being. Its done me well aside from overclocking.

Crossing fingers though,

Thanks,

Waj


----------



## TriBeCa

loose RAM timings will almost certainly lead to instability when the RAM is underclocked.... you should only need to loosen the timings when you're OCing the RAM clock itself.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noob-ocer* 
Yeah, the 0703 BIOS is a ****, I could't post with 430FSB while I had logged on to windows and run Super Pi 2M at 480FSB with the original 0307 BIOS
This board does not support OCing ram, with the Ram at 900 i could never log in to windows at FSB 450

not sure what you mean when you say the board does not support OCing RAM. I've run my 800MHz dominators at over 1000MHz...don't remember exactly, but I think it was at 1020 or so. when you OC your RAM you often have to loosen the timings...i'm guessing that's the reason you couldn't post.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
So why are the core & memory voltages dropped rather than increased for OCing? Somewhere I read that the higher the voltage on a chip the faster speed you can accomplish, and that that is how companies can sell the same chip to run at different "stock" values. Is that information incorrect?

~Josh

vcore and vdimm are not dropped when you're OCing...not sure what gave you the idea that they are...?

in general the higher the vcore the faster clock speed you can accomplish, but that is not universally true. but no, companies do not sell the same chip to run at different stock values by fiddling with the stock voltages. in general the stock voltage for a given 'class' of chips is the same...what differs is the multiplier and (I think, but don't quote me on this) the way the chips are screened.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:

vcore and vdimm are not dropped when you're OCing...not sure what gave you the idea that they are...?

Well, perhaps I misunderstood your intention but I got the idea from the OP where you said "Set vcore to your CPU's stock setting *minus* 100mV (so, if your chip is 1.325V at stock, set it to 1.225), set memory voltage to the highest value *less* than your RAMs stock voltage, set NB voltage to 1.393". That is dropping the voltages. I was wondering why you would want to do that when overclocking?

P.S. Being the supreme newbie that I am to overclocking, may I ask how you gained all your knowledge of how OCing works? Years of practice? A degree in Computer Science or Electrical Engineering? None of the previous esoteric options?







I have an Associates in CS and am working toward my Bachelors degree. Any low-level info I can gain on PC hardware would be invaluable to me (and there aren't many good in-depth tutorials online - that I know about anyway). Like the MOSFET cooling deal, whoa... that's a bit exotic to me. You've really got to be a hardcore OCer to get into that. I'd be afraid I'd break something.







So if you have any nuggets of knowlegde that you could impart to me (or point me to) I'd be eternally grateful (like an in-depth, low level coverage of OCing for starters).

~Josh


----------



## r0b126

anyone know if you lose anything by using the 2 black memory bays on the mob instead of the yellow ones?


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
anyone know if you lose anything by using the 2 black memory bays on the mob instead of the yellow ones?

It shouldn't make a difference. In older BIOS revisions, the black slots appeared to be more stable for some crazy reason, so alot of people ran RAM in them instead of the yellow ones.

Now my turn...anyone had trouble OCing with 0801 BIOS? I was running fine at 3.0Ghz with BIOS 0603. I set everything back to defaults and updated to 0801. Now I can set my CPU back to 3.0Ghz and it passes POST, but it will not boot into Windows or Linux. I get to the GRUB menu and select an OS, it starts to boot, then stops responding. I can run Memtest86 all day long without an error, so it apparently isn't my RAM. I'm probably gonna revert back later today but I wanted to see if this is a common issue or just me.


----------



## aleiro

I havent had a problem, but in your case i would try 7.03 before going all the way back down to 6.03

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr. Mojo* 
It shouldn't make a difference. In older BIOS revisions, the black slots appeared to be more stable for some crazy reason, so alot of people ran RAM in them instead of the yellow ones.

Now my turn...anyone had trouble OCing with 0801 BIOS? I was running fine at 3.0Ghz with BIOS 0603. I set everything back to defaults and updated to 0801. Now I can set my CPU back to 3.0Ghz and it passes POST, but it will not boot into Windows or Linux. I get to the GRUB menu and select an OS, it starts to boot, then stops responding. I can run Memtest86 all day long without an error, so it apparently isn't my RAM. I'm probably gonna revert back later today but I wanted to see if this is a common issue or just me.


----------



## degziebob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
lol...I think I must of got lucky with my board. I've actually been toying with the idea of upgrading to a P35 board and slapping this D820 into the P5NE.

Don't give up hope. Most OC attempts that fall within the statistical range of what is possible that fail are due to RAM. Make sure that your memory and CPU are unlinked with your RAM running at it's stock speed, and go for the best OC you can get on the CPU only. Once you've maxed out the CPU, then start adjusting the RAM.

I would give up !!!! I had a ASUS p5N-E for about 1 week & got too frustrated.. (I had a few posts a couple of pages back). Sent it back & got a Gigabyte P35C-DSR3 .. costs about the same.

I built it up, didn't even try on stock, just went into bios & set to 9x333Mhz = easy 3Ghz. Everything else on auto, & this is with my 4x1Gig DD2-800 Reaper memory....boom ... straight into windows, idel temps 42c. 100% stable.

8x400 at 1.3vcore boots into Windows fine but idles at 50c & prime was >60c when I stopped it. I'm on the Intel stock cooler, my water cooling set up is going in next week.

This board, the Gigabyte, is excellent .. SB has a heatsink, 8 Sata ports, the cmos reset is bang in the middle of the board with easy access (not needed it yet tho').

Go GIGABYTE !!!!!!


----------



## Bonez

Hi guys, this is just to let you know I've defected and just got a Inno3d 680i. Hopefully a functional one.

I'm going to take this opportunity to thank you all (especially TriBeCa) for the information and experience you've shared in this thread which made my journey taking my 6420 and P5N to 3.4 a much smoother one. As much as I've come to like the P5Ne-sli, it was time for something new for me. The NB going the way it did (my fault, not a flaw with the board) just gave me the push I needed.

Thanks again.


----------



## Bonez

Hi guys, this is just to let you know I've defected and just got a Inno3d 680i. Hopefully a functional one.

I'm going to take this opportunity to thank you all (especially TriBeCa) for the information and experience you've shared in this thread which made my journey taking my 6420 and P5N to 3.4 a much smoother one. As much as I've come to like the P5Ne-sli, it was time for something new for me. The NB going the way it did (my fault, not a flaw with the board) just gave me the push I needed.

Thanks again.
__________________


----------



## xtascox

what are you guys using to monitor your temps? ive had this board for almost 4 months now and pc wizard, speedfan, and asus probe II, all seem to not give accurate temps, the temps really never move at all and im pretty sure that an increase of only 2 degrees Celsius on full load is impossible on a $11 masscool heatsink fan. Is it possible that maybe thermal paste got on the sensor or do i need to update my board drivers? Also I've tried just about every bios update and that didn't fix it. Any ideas here guys?


----------



## aleiro

use cpucool or everest... i use cpucool and asus pc probe with no problem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xtascox* 
what are you guys using to monitor your temps? ive had this board for almost 4 months now and pc wizard, speedfan, and asus probe II, all seem to not give accurate temps, the temps really never move at all and im pretty sure that an increase of only 2 degrees Celsius on full load is impossible on a $11 masscool heatsink fan. Is it possible that maybe thermal paste got on the sensor or do i need to update my board drivers? Also I've tried just about every bios update and that didn't fix it. Any ideas here guys?


----------



## Ravin

coretemp


----------



## ihasflavor

I just got my P5N-E SLi today and its scaring me a little. I was using an entry level board before this (P5LD2 Vm SE) and overclocking was just a matter of upping the FSB. Fat lot of good that did since I could never get past 2.0Ghz. Anyway, how do I go about it with this board? Too many new options and I don't know what the heck they are. What do I enable/Disable?


----------



## Asce

Trib has an OC'ing guide in his sig, so i would read that and hope it helps you out a bit. If not come back here and we will help you out.


----------



## ihasflavor

Great I'll go check that out.But now suddenly I've got bigger issues. My temps have gone up considerably. The CPU is idling at 47 degrees and the MB at 46. On my old board which i was using till this morning they were both at 41. The heatsink is perfectly seated and I know everyone is going to recommend thermal paste so let me get that right out of the way and say it can't be found here in India. You just use what came with the proc.


----------



## mreco

hi
is it normal that my 2x1gb Patriot ram settings in the bios were wildly off what the patriot lable said they should be, cant remember now but somethng like 12-12-12-22 i didnt notice this for like a month, now ive set them to the suggested 4-4-4-12 T1 and all seems much better.

Why didnt it detect this on install? it was a new build


----------



## aleiro

because the mobo is ******ed sometimes... it did it to my memory too. Make sure you set the voltage too

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mreco*


hi
is it normal that my 2x1gb Patriot ram settings in the bios were wildly off what the patriot lable said they should be, cant remember now but somethng like 12-12-12-22 i didnt notice this for like a month, now ive set them to the suggested 4-4-4-12 T1 and all seems much better.

Why didnt it detect this on install? it was a new build


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ihasflavor*


Great I'll go check that out.But now suddenly I've got bigger issues. My temps have gone up considerably. The CPU is idling at 47 degrees and the MB at 46. On my old board which i was using till this morning they were both at 41. The heatsink is perfectly seated and I know everyone is going to recommend thermal paste so let me get that right out of the way and say it can't be found here in India. You just use what came with the proc.


Did you reuse the stuff that was on the stock heatsink? If you did that's the problem.


----------



## va_xo

I have this motherboard and i want to chande my 631 with E2160 or E4400-4500

What do you advice???


----------



## CompTechPro

----


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *va_xo*


I have this motherboard and i want to chande my 631 with E2160 or E4400-4500

What do you advice???


Those are very weak. Your processor probably performs the same as the 2160. Get the E6600 or the E6750... both are fairly cheap. My advice: save your money until you can afford the better ones.

I would like to add to this thread that the Zalman 9700 does indeed fit with the stock northbridge heatsink without any modifications required.


----------



## ihasflavor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Did you reuse the stuff that was on the stock heatsink? If you did that's the problem.


Yeah I did but like I said I don't really have a choice. Cooling solutions are limited in india unless you feel like paying a huge amount for them. Import taxes are a joke. I'm not even going to tell you guys how much I paid for the motherboard. I'm getting the new heatsink off my Dad's new Celeron today so maybe that will help. And its winter here so ambient room temp is like 24 degrees. In the summer when its like mid thirties I don't know what I'm gonna do.


----------



## Awesome

With temps that low all you need to do is duct air into your case from outside and go fanless.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ihasflavor* 
Yeah I did but like I said I don't really have a choice. Cooling solutions are limited in india unless you feel like paying a huge amount for them. Import taxes are a joke. I'm not even going to tell you guys how much I paid for the motherboard. I'm getting the new heatsink off my Dad's new Celeron today so maybe that will help. And its winter here so ambient room temp is like 24 degrees. In the summer when its like mid thirties I don't know what I'm gonna do.

Best way round it is to buy bulk.


----------



## gingerling

P5N E SLI 650i mother board
2 1gb sticks of ddr2 800 ram
2.4 quad core cpu

Now i have never overclocked before and dont know really where to start.
What speeds should i be able to get.

Is there a guide on where to start. I really am clueless


----------



## HoggeH

IÂ´ve got a problem with hangups after a day or so.
I have no heat issues and all stressprograms are reporting no errors.
So I wonder have anyone had the same problem?
The only thing I can think of is that I installed a new PSU Corsair 620W, and the sensor says 12V=11.87 and 5V=4.85.
Problem with sensor or PSU?


----------



## Asce

Gingerling and Hoggeh, can you please fill in your system specs. Gingerling, Trib has an OC'ing guide in his sig.


----------



## HoggeH

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HoggeH* 
IÂ´ve got a problem with hangups after a day or so.
I have no heat issues and all stressprograms are reporting no errors.
So I wonder have anyone had the same problem?
The only thing I can think of is that I installed a new PSU Corsair 620W, and the sensor says 12V=11.87 and 5V=4.85.
Problem with sensor or PSU?

C2D 4300
P5n-E sli
2gb ocz 8500
36 Gb Raptor
2*250 Wd Raid Edition
NZXT Lexa
Corsair 620 W
Ninja Rev 2
Passive cooler SB
DoesenÂ´t matter OC 2700(300Fsb) or standart Clock


----------



## va_xo

Quote:



Quote:

Quote:Originally Posted by va_xo
I have this motherboard and i want to chande my 631 with E2160 or E4400-4500
Those are very weak. Your processor probably performs the same as the 2160. Get the E6600 or the E6750... both are fairly cheap. My advice: save your money until you can afford the better ones.
but i did have more than 150-160$, so i only can buy E2160-80 or E4400-4500


----------



## gingerling

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Gingerling and Hoggeh, can you please fill in your system specs. Gingerling, Trib has an OC'ing guide in his sig.


CPU: intel q6600
HSF: ocz ocztvanq
M/B : asus / nvidia p5n-e sli 
GPU: n vidia 8800gtx 768mb
HD: 320gb wd 7200rpm 16mb cache sata2 3gb/s
RAM: 2gb kingston ddr2 dual channel 800mhz 6400 CL5 value ram
PSU: 500-550w sata pci-e
CASE: thermaltake soprano


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *va_xo*


but i did have more than 150-160$, so i only can buy E2160-80 or E4400-4500


Then wait a couple weeks. Trust me, it'll be worth the wait.


----------



## ru7hl355

having issues when installing my pc8500 ballistix into this board, whenever i set it tp 1066(rated speed) and restart pc it fails the bios boot and overides my overclock etc.

if i run it at 1000 its fine but my vista index score doesnt change from the old memories score(5.4) even when the timings are 4-4-4-10:S

voltage is set to 2.1v any ideas?

bios is 0608


----------



## Awesome

Isn't PC8500 supposed to run at 1333 Mhz?


----------



## ru7hl355

anyone running ballistix pc8500 on this board? i cant get mines to work if i go near 1066.

can you post up your settings - voltage - timings - etc.

really ****ed off now


----------



## cybershark5886

I've just now begun to overclock my board, and I quickly discovered that I have a core-locked CPU (Core 2 Duo 6750). That's not too big a problem since I can still tweak the FSB & memory speeds, and their voltages. However I have a question which hinges more on the fundamentals of OC-ing. What is the difference between stepping up my FSB and uping the multiplier? Does the multiplier have anything to do with the pump (the 4x pump) or does it actually effect the actual speed, or none of the above? If it effects the actual speed then does it not have a proportional relationship with the FSB speed? I guess I want to know how this effects me as an overclocker, being unable to unlock the core and all.

Thanks,

~Josh


----------



## Kopi

FSB x Multiplier = Clock speed

Here's an example

266 x 7 = 1866mhz

Upping the multi to 8 for example (Not possible on C2D chips unless its Extreme series) would mean

266 x 8 = 2128mhz

Doing this makes your clock speed faster. But, it would be more ideal to get a higher FSB speed as that also helps your speed in general. Higher FSB means faster ram and an overall faster computer. If possible, it would be better to run 457 x 7 = 3200mhz as your ram would now be running above 900mhz which is quick, rather than running 400 x 8 =3200mhz.

Get that much?

The quad pumped is simple. Lets use 400 as our FSB speed for now. 400fsb will be read quad pumped in the bios, for 1600mhz. This is the _bus speed_. The two are often mixed up. Your ram is dual pumped (DDR, which means Dual Data Rate), so at 400fsb, your ram runs 800mhz. The multiplier has nothing to do with this, it only deals with the CPU.

Was I too confusing there?

I'd also like to point out an error on page 1.

NON COMPATIBLE COMPONENTS:
OCZ Platinum Revision 1 RAM
XP-90 CPU Cooler (Even with LGA 775 Kit)
*Sycthe Infinity*

That is incorrect!


----------



## cybershark5886

Tribeca,

I'd be interested to see your reply as to why you said to drop the voltages (as I explained at the bottom of the last page).

~Josh


----------



## aleiro

you probably need to update your bios to at least 7.03. I am running 8.01 with zero problems, and i change my over clock almost daily.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


having issues when installing my pc8500 ballistix into this board, whenever i set it tp 1066(rated speed) and restart pc it fails the bios boot and overides my overclock etc.

if i run it at 1000 its fine but my vista index score doesnt change from the old memories score(5.4) even when the timings are 4-4-4-10:S

voltage is set to 2.1v any ideas?

bios is 0608


----------



## Kopi

0608 is having no issues for me...it runs great.


----------



## ru7hl355

im currently on 0801 so its not bios


----------



## Blizzie

Hi all,

Anyone having problems overclocking a Quad on this board? I've read that this board doesn't handle them too well, and I'm stuck at 2.7 GHz.









Look here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-q6600.html


----------



## mreco

hi
i dont wanna be rude but i cant read all the hundreds of postings here.
Id like to get more out of my cpu mem and mobo can someone help?

currently ive got my cpu up to 3.15ghz

the FSB is on 1400 and the vcore is on 1.36
Im wary that increasing voltage is a careful proceedure, im happy to do it but im not aware of how far i can safely push it.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


you probably need to update your bios to at least 7.03. I am running 8.01 with zero problems, and i change my over clock almost daily.


Completely wrong there. This board from what i believe i read near the beginning of this thread, was that this board doesnt like to run RAM over 1000Mhz.


----------



## mreco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


because the mobo is ******ed sometimes... it did it to my memory too. Make sure you set the voltage too


what should the voltage be

(previously i asked why the mobo assumed my ram timings were wildy slower than they should be)


----------



## Asce

Well your RAM may be rates at 4-4-4-12 but at what voltage? Mine whats 2.1v just to run at 800mhz. There should be a sticker on your RAM stating what timings and voltage it runs at. The default voltage RAM is set to is 1.8v


----------



## ru7hl355

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Completely wrong there. This board from what i believe i read near the beginning of this thread, was that this board doesnt like to run RAM over 1000Mhz.


if this is true it makes me much happier









so sint anyone running 1066 memory on this board?


----------



## aleiro

What you 'believe', that sounds like an opinion there to me... If you dont have valid input why did you post?

Just to clarify i dont like people spouting opinions with no evidence... but to let you know the P5n-e does not support DDR2-1066 at all.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/458/5

how ever i have seen people get over 1000mhz, so you might find somewhere in between.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Completely wrong there. This board from what i believe i read near the beginning of this thread, was that this board doesnt like to run RAM over 1000Mhz.


----------



## aleiro

you can look that up either on the box you bought the ram or the makers website.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
what should the voltage be

(previously i asked why the mobo assumed my ram timings were wildy slower than they should be)


----------



## mreco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Well your RAM may be rates at 4-4-4-12 but at what voltage? Mine whats 2.1v just to run at 800mhz. There should be a sticker on your RAM stating what timings and voltage it runs at. The default voltage RAM is set to is 1.8v

hi
my ram sticker doest have voltage settings :-( can i find it somewhere ?


----------



## mreco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
you can look that up either on the box you bought the ram or the makers website.

thanks, cant seem to find patriot website thought so far
sorry , found it. www.patriotmem.com and it says 1.8v


----------



## mreco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
hi
i dont wanna be rude but i cant read all the hundreds of postings here.
Id like to get more out of my cpu mem and mobo can someone help?

currently ive got my cpu up to 3.15ghz

the FSB is on 1400 and the vcore is on 1.36
Im wary that increasing voltage is a careful proceedure, im happy to do it but im not aware of how far i can safely push it.

i am running my ram at 4-4-4-12 but at T1 could this be my problem, should i try T2? would that help a faster oc on the cpu


----------



## aleiro

then in the bios set the voltage on the ram to 1.92v and you should be good

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
thanks, cant seem to find patriot website thought so far
sorry , found it. www.patriotmem.com and it says 1.8v


----------



## Kopi

2T on intel is almost a must. That will probably do it for ya!


----------



## ru7hl355

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
What you 'believe', that sounds like an opinion there to me... If you dont have valid input why did you post?

Just to clarify i dont like people spouting opinions with no evidence... but to let you know the P5n-e does not support DDR2-1066 at all.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/458/5

how ever i have seen people get over 1000mhz, so you might find somewhere in between.

thansk for that, hope your not havin a dig at me i was only asking if it was true


----------



## mreco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
then in the bios set the voltage on the ram to 1.92v and you should be good

1.92v? is this more than 1.8? or is there some negative figure that comes off the 1.92 i dont know about?

is there a benefit to setting it to 1.92v

edit
ah i see 1.92 is the min setting

thanks alot

si


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


FSB x Multiplier = Clock speed

Here's an example

266 x 7 = 1866mhz

Upping the multi to 8 for example (Not possible on C2D chips unless its Extreme series) would mean

266 x 8 = 2128mhz

Doing this makes your clock speed faster. But, it would be more ideal to get a higher FSB speed as that also helps your speed in general. Higher FSB means faster ram and an overall faster computer. If possible, it would be better to run 457 x 7 = 3200mhz as your ram would now be running above 900mhz which is quick, rather than running 400 x 8 =3200mhz.

Get that much?

The quad pumped is simple. Lets use 400 as our FSB speed for now. 400fsb will be read quad pumped in the bios, for 1600mhz. This is the _bus speed_. The two are often mixed up. Your ram is dual pumped (DDR, which means Dual Data Rate), so at 400fsb, your ram runs 800mhz? The multiplier has nothing to do with this, it only deals with the CPU.

Was I too confusing there?



So how exactly does the overall clock speed tie into the bus speed for the CPU? Which one does the North Bridge operate at?

P.S. Can I unlock my core if I update the BIOS or is that solely dependant on the processor? And how should I have shopped if I was looking for a processor that has an unlockable core? (_I have a Core 2 Duo 6750 2.66GHz, OCed to 3.0GHz by uping the FSB to 375 [since I can't touch the multiplier]_)

As an aside: I've overclocked my OCZ PC6400 DDR2 800MHz RAM (2 Gig) up to 900MHz. How big of a jump is that for that memory (and should I have increased the mem voltage)? I have no clue since I'm a newb to this. Are there any sites that can give me guidelines for OCing for my specific memory?

Thanks,

~Josh


----------



## Magoo Wu

Hello,

I am an avid fan of the P5n-e and am reluctant to get a new mobo.

But recently I attempted to install a second Video Card in SLI mode.

Two 7950 GT KO superclocked.

I have more then enough power from my PSU and have followed everything in the installation process to the letter.

The problem when occurs when I first try to start the computer and it will not boot/post. (This time I got a single continuous beep.)

So I reseated both cards and ram to be on the safe side. (Got the same beep.)

Now I removed the new card and returned everything to the original setup (which worked perfectly) - one video card. (Now I get one long beep and three short beeps. Which indicated a video card problem.)

At this point I either get the same one long and three short beeps or no beep at all.....

I have gone through disconnecting all plugs and replugging... and any variation in between.

Now I am at a loss.

Any other tips, or did I break my mobo and have to start fresh.

Thanks!


----------



## Kopi

Dpawl, check back a page or two, the Scythe Infinity _does_ fit on this board, you have it as incompatible.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131142
Also, price drop to 117


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Upping the multi to 8 for example (Not possible on C2D chips unless its Extreme series)


False. I'm running a x9 multiplier, and it's stock.
The rest of your post was very informative though, thank you.









And the Zalman 9700 is compatible.

EDIT: Finally! 3.2 Ghz with 533 mhz ram!! Seems to be stable so far... I'm gonna run some benches.


----------



## cybershark5886

On top of my questions in my last post above, I'd like someone to look at this screenshot of my specs from speedfan and tell me if it looks good, reasonable, or bad. This is the typical temps & voltages when I immediately start up. I have since dropped the CPU vcore to 1.31 but the rest is typical. The individual Core temps (0 & 1) look _more than reasonable_ to me, but the over all "core" temp running at 53 (seen it go up to 60 after an intense gaming run), has me wondering if that is bad or to be expected. Take a look, and tell me what you think (sorry if the picture is a little grainy):


----------



## aleiro

An e6600 has a 9x multi... so you can move your multi down but you cant go up. (not sure what the original quote was about, but you can change the multi)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


False. I'm running a x9 multiplier, and it's stock.
The rest of your post was very informative though, thank you.









And the Zalman 9700 is compatible.

EDIT: Finally! 3.2 Ghz with 533 mhz ram!! Seems to be stable so far... I'm gonna run some benches.


----------



## aleiro

I would look at the Pc Probe temp which is your Tcase and that is at 39C. Which is good if you have stock cooling or it is 75-79F in your house. As for what speedfan, i think that is your graphics cards temp that is 53C

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


On top of my questions in my last post above, I'd like someone to look at this screenshot of my specs from speedfan and tell me if it looks good, reasonable, or bad. This is the typical temps & voltages when I immediately start up. I have since dropped the CPU vcore to 1.31 but the rest is typical. The individual Core temps (0 & 1) look _more than reasonable_ to me, but the over all "core" temp running at 53 (seen it go up to 60 after an intense gaming run), has me wondering if that is bad or to be expected. Take a look, and tell me what you think (sorry if the picture is a little grainy):


----------



## Blizzie

No takers on my question? It seems as if the board is holding my Quad back. I've tried basically everything I could think of. 
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-q6600.html

Also, question for everyone. What BIOS version are you using and which have you found to be most stable?


----------



## aleiro

I read the other posts, and there is nothing wrong with the board it cant handle a high OC with a quad. I read on the asus website that if you disable thermal protection you can get a better OC just watch the temps for a while. Also, dont use the +100mv leave that on auto. I would set the voltage at 1.37 and try 1333. Let me know if it works.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


No takers on my question? It seems as if the board is holding my Quad back. I've tried basically everything I could think of. 
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-q6600.html

Also, question for everyone. What BIOS version are you using and which have you found to be most stable?


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


An e6600 has a 9x multi... so you can move your multi down but you cant go up. (not sure what the original quote was about, but you can change the multi)


In his original message he said that you couldn't get the multi over x7 unless you had a C2D Extreme.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Also, question for everyone. What BIOS version are you using and which have you found to be most stable?


If you click on their system you can find out.








0608 for me.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
I read the other posts, and there is nothing wrong with the board it cant handle a high OC with a quad. I read on the asus website that if you disable thermal protection you can get a better OC just watch the temps for a while. Also, dont use the +100mv leave that on auto. I would set the voltage at 1.37 and try 1333. Let me know if it works.

Will try it tomorrow.







Thank You.

@Awesome: Using the newest BIOS. Flashed cause I had some problems before. Maybe I should go back for the Quad.


----------



## nick-at-da-mill

Let me begin by stating that my objective is not intensive gaming performance, but intensive processing (e.g., video compression) with 3 monitors, 4 HDDs (1-x-150 G WD Raptor, 3-x-500 G WD Caviar) and a host of USB devices (now moved off the MOBO and onto a powered 2.0 hub in order to reduce power demand).

My OC experience is that I can't get Vista 64 stable at any more than 2.88 (9-x-320) ghz on a Q6600 and this MOBO. With the clock set above 320 and below 340, the system hangs before booting, and at 340 I can't even get to the CAD screen under Vista 64 even though MemTest runs clean! The problem seems to be, as described by RAVIN, lack of sufficient on-board power. Even at only 2.88 ghz, I have a very narrow voltage window at which I can maintain stability. This is despite no temp. issues. I'm achieving <50c on the hottest core, under load at 2.88 ghx, with a Thermaltake BigTyp VX with downward airflow also cooling the NB/SB heat sink).

The bottom line is that I can only get Vista 640 stable under load with Vcore set to 1.2125 (and NB voltage set to 1.39 and Vdimm to 1.9). Any lower or, surprisingly, higher and i get BSODs while running Prime95.

In looking around, it would appear that poor Q6600 OC performance on MOBOs with two PCIex16 slots (not available on most non-SLI based chipsets) is not limited to this MOBO. My gut feeling is to live with 2.88 ghz for now (at least I can run the CPU fan at a quieter speed) and wait 3-6 months for SLI MOBOs that are really able to really support Q6600 OCing (e.g., with temp rather than power limited voltages).

What do Y'all think?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


What you 'believe', that sounds like an opinion there to me... If you dont have valid input why did you post?

Just to clarify i dont like people spouting opinions with no evidence... but to let you know the P5n-e does not support DDR2-1066 at all.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/458/5

how ever i have seen people get over 1000mhz, so you might find somewhere in between.


Well considering when i joined this thread, people couldnt get RAM over 1000Mhz. Why dont you look within the first 100 pages then? Well considering that you believe 100% that Auto is stock voltages, they are only stock at stock values. So if you leave the voltages at stock and increase the FSB your voltages will increase.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nick-at-da-mill*


Let me begin by stating that my objective is not intensive gaming performance, but intensive processing (e.g., video compression) with 3 monitors, 4 HDDs (1-x-150 G WD Raptor, 3-x-500 G WD Caviar) and a host of USB devices (now moved off the MOBO and onto a powered 2.0 hub in order to reduce power demand).

My OC experience is that I can't get Vista 64 stable at any more than 2.88 (9-x-320) ghz on a Q6600 and this MOBO. With the clock set above 320 and below 340, the system hangs before booting, and at 340 I can't even get to the CAD screen under Vista 64 even though MemTest runs clean! The problem seems to be, as described by RAVIN, lack of sufficient on-board power. Even at only 2.88 ghz, I have a very narrow voltage window at which I can maintain stability. This is despite no temp. issues. I'm achieving <50c on the hottest core, under load at 2.88 ghx, with a Thermaltake BigTyp VX with downward airflow also cooling the NB/SB heat sink).

The bottom line is that I can only get Vista 640 stable under load with Vcore set to 1.2125 (and NB voltage set to 1.39 and Vdimm to 1.9). Any lower or, surprisingly, higher and i get BSODs while running Prime95.

In looking around, it would appear that poor Q6600 OC performance on MOBOs with two PCIex16 slots (not available on most non-SLI based chipsets) is not limited to this MOBO. My gut feeling is to live with 2.88 ghz for now (at least I can run the CPU fan at a quieter speed) and wait 3-6 months for SLI MOBOs that are really able to really support Q6600 OCing (e.g., with temp rather than power limited voltages).

What do Y'all think?


I'm having problems too. Can't boot past 2.7 GHz. It seems that from 2.7 - 3.0 there's a FSB hole where it just goes bad. From 3.0 GHz onwards it actually boots to the Vista loading screen but then just gives me a black screen after.

This motherboard isn't that great for OCing Quads but is great with Duos.

Edit: Just tried what aleiro said. It gave me some headway and I figured out that with the FSB at 1333 it won't work at all. But increasing it to about 1350 gives me some headway to reach the Vista load screen. I varied my voltages from 1.30 to 1.45v with the NB at 1.3.. But still, no go. Once I started raising the FSB to 1380+, it just.. froze; cleared CMOS jumper after an 90 minutes and gave up for now. Have work to do. Only thing left I can think of to try is to change my BIOS version.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magoo Wu*


Hello,

I am an avid fan of the P5n-e and am reluctant to get a new mobo.

But recently I attempted to install a second Video Card in SLI mode.

Two 7950 GT KO superclocked.

I have more then enough power from my PSU and have followed everything in the installation process to the letter.

The problem when occurs when I first try to start the computer and it will not boot/post. (This time I got a single continuous beep.)

So I reseated both cards and ram to be on the safe side. (Got the same beep.)

Now I removed the new card and returned everything to the original setup (which worked perfectly) - one video card. (Now I get one long beep and three short beeps. Which indicated a video card problem.)

At this point I either get the same one long and three short beeps or no beep at all.....

I have gone through disconnecting all plugs and replugging... and any variation in between.

Now I am at a loss.

Any other tips, or did I break my mobo and have to start fresh.

Thanks!


Did you remember to switch the SODIMM card from single to SLi mode.


----------



## Magoo Wu

Yes, if I attempted to run SLI mode the card was in the correct SLI position.

I switched it back to single mode when I tried my original setup.

But there still seems to be a problem with the graphics card circuitry.

If my original setup does not boot or post, did I damage the mobo - is that possible?

And - if so - should I upgrade my mobo or stick with the P5N-E?

Thanks!


----------



## mreco

hi

1. i have my fsb on 1450 now (3.26ghz) but if i move it to 1460 i get a big performance drop, ie dragging a open window around is jerky, and games have alot lower fps , have i found the limit? of my oc

2. if i oc the cpu would this mean i can oc the graphics card less?

thanks


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
hi

1. i have my fsb on 1450 now (3.26ghz) but if i move it to 1460 i get a big performance drop, ie dragging a open window around is jerky, and games have alot lower fps , have i found the limit? of my oc

2. if i oc the cpu would this mean i can oc the graphics card less?

thanks

1. Have you tested for stability?

2. CPU and video cards shouldn't affect each other.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Magoo Wu* 
Yes, if I attempted to run SLI mode the card was in the correct SLI position.

I switched it back to single mode when I tried my original setup.

But there still seems to be a problem with the graphics card circuitry.

If my original setup does not boot or post, did I damage the mobo - is that possible?

And - if so - should I upgrade my mobo or stick with the P5N-E?

Thanks!

If you still have warranty you should rma it. It sounds like it just crapped out when you put in the second gfx card.

It only started to screw up after you put in the 2nd grapics card....RMA!


----------



## mreco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


1. Have you tested for stability?

2. CPU and video cards shouldn't affect each other.


hi yes have tested using everyday apps and crysis and 3DMark06

my vcore is 1.375 (NB 1.56v) and i dont know if i should (or its safe) to increase it any more


----------



## Blizzie

For your E6600 your vcore is completely safe up to around 1.45v although you can go 1.48v.

Seems to me the "laggyness" you see is caused by your CPU being unstable. You can try setting it to FSB 1460 and run Orthos or OCCT for 12 hours.


----------



## cybershark5886

Aleiro,

You may be right about that 53C being my video temp, but how to you know it's not the *Tjunction* temperature? I'm very confused after reading how tempertaure works for dual cores. It says that *TCase* is the actual die temps and that *TJunction* is the combination of those two TCase temps, higher by a quantity _delta_. But if 39C is my Tjunction temp and my 2 core's temps (are these the TCase???) are at 30C, which would make the delta 9C, then why is it so much higher for programs like Core Temp, look here (cores at 56 but the Tjunction is at *85*, see also here)? Also on Tom's Hardware Guide it says that "Tjunction Max = 100c", that's high!

Most importantly though I need to know what is *hot* for a Core 2 Duo, and which temperature I need to look at. I was actually running pretty hot (according to touch) on my NB stably before I dropped my voltages a bit, but none the less it was still fine. I read somewhere earlier in this thread that running in the upper 50s and 60+ Celcius is hot, and a terrible temperature, while 55 and below is more reasonable. Is that temp the die temps (TCase???) or the Tjunction, or was that person mistaken all together? I could really use some informed advice on this.

Thanks,

~Josh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
I would look at the Pc Probe temp which is your Tcase and that is at 39C. Which is good if you have stock cooling or it is 75-79F in your house. As for what speedfan, i think that is your graphics cards temp that is 53C

Quote:

On top of my questions in my last post above, I'd like someone to look at this screenshot of my specs from speedfan and tell me if it looks good, reasonable, or bad. This is the typical temps & voltages when I immediately start up. I have since dropped the CPU vcore to 1.31 but the rest is typical. The individual Core temps (0 & 1) look more than reasonable to me, but the over all "core" temp running at 53 (seen it go up to 60 after an intense gaming run), has me wondering if that is bad or to be expected. Take a look, and tell me what you think (sorry if the picture is a little grainy):


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
Aleiro,

You may be right about that 53C being my video temp, but how to you know it's not the *Tjunction* temperature? I'm very confused after reading how tempertaure works for dual cores. It say that *TCase* is the actual die temps and that *TJunction* is the combination of those two TCase temps, higher by a quantity _delta_. But if 39C is my Tjunction temp and my 2 core's temps (are these the TCase???) are at 30C, which would make the delta 9C, then why is it so much higher for programs like Core Temp, look here (cores at 56 but the Tjunction is at *85*, see also here)? Also on Tom's Hardware Guide it says that "Tjunction Max = 100c", that's high!

Most importantly though I need to know what is *hot* for a Core 2 Duo, and which temperature I need to look at. I was actually running pretty hot (according to touch) on my NB stably before I dropped my voltages a bit, but none the less it was still fine. I read somewhere earlier in this thread that running in the upper 50s and 60+ Celcius is hot, and a terrible temperature, while 55 and below is more reasonable. Is that temp the die temps (TCase???) or the Tjunction, or was that person mistaken all together? I could really use some informed advice on this.

Thanks,

~Josh

First: Tjunction in core temperature is a reference, it will never change for your processor, older Core 2 Duo's are 85C Tjunction, newer ones are 100C.

Safe temperatures for Core 2 Duos are upto 60C under full load using the values of the core readings in Coretemp.


----------



## C2H6O

Hi fellow P5N-Er's,

Just got back from thanksgiving break to find that my computer doesn't start up. Fans & lights start up for about 1 sec and then the computer dies. I was guessing that it had something to do with the CPU not initializing. Checked the CPU visually, and didn't remember any







smokey incidents.

Well, I remembered banging one of the capacitors when reseating the heatsink. The upper right one in particular (immediately upper-right of CPU). I moved the computer once before I left, and am guessing that I may have joggled it loose. I'm going to send it in for repairs, but does anyone know what that capacitor is used for? If it were to be, say, broken, would it prevent the puter from starting up?

Thanks


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


First: Tjunction in core temperature is a reference, it will never change for your processor, older Core 2 Duo's are 85C Tjunction, newer ones are 100C.

Safe temperatures for Core 2 Duos are upto 60C under full load using the values of the core readings in Coretemp.


Ah, that was informative. I didn't know the Tjunction was a reference temp. So I suppose it's mainly the die's fluctuation in temperatue that determines how hot it's running...

One other thing, as far as feeling the heat sinks go, my NB heatsink feels quite a bit hotter (you can maybe hold your hand there for 15 seconds before it's too hot to continue) than my CPU heaksink (often so cool you couldn't even tell that it was on - good news for me). I dropped the NB core voltage and that seems to have helped a bit but it is still hot. Is that typical? And is there a way to get a reading on the NB temp, such as some application which can measure it?

P.S. Thanks a million, I'm really learning a lot here.


----------



## mreco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


For your E6600 your vcore is completely safe up to around 1.45v although you can go 1.48v.

Seems to me the "laggyness" you see is caused by your CPU being unstable. You can try setting it to FSB 1460 and run Orthos or OCCT for 12 hours.


ok, i upped the vcore to 1.3875 and now 1475 fsb 'seems' stable (3dmark06 and crysis bench)

my core0 temps got to nearly 50 when on 3dmark06 is this ok?


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *C2H6O*


Hi fellow P5N-Er's,

Just got back from thanksgiving break to find that my computer doesn't start up. Fans & lights start up for about 1 sec and then the computer dies.


Sounds like what happened to me when I forgot to plug in my 12V connector from my power supply to the board. You sure you didn't unplug anything? But heck if you did something to a capacitor or something else hardware related there are dozens of possible causes. I'm not sure if clocking the FSB too high would prevent the PC from starting though, it probably just wouldn't POST and then upon restart would reset to factory defaults (the built in fail-safe). I've already done that twice, but mine at the very least started. I'd gamble it's power related.

P.S. To anyone more knowledgable than I on this board: feel free to correct me.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


False. I'm running a x9 multiplier, and it's stock.
The rest of your post was very informative though, thank you.









And the Zalman 9700 is compatible.

EDIT: Finally! 3.2 Ghz with 533 mhz ram!! Seems to be stable so far... I'm gonna run some benches.


False. You cannot _raise_ the multi on any C2D chip. You can lower them. Yours is stock at 9, you did not raise it. Just a miscommunication


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


Ah, that was informative. I didn't know the Tjunction was a reference temp. So I suppose it's mainly the die's fluctuation in temperatue that determines how hot it's running...

One other thing, as far as feeling the heat sinks go, my NB heatsink feels quite a bit hotter (you can maybe hold your hand there for 15 seconds before it's too hot to continue) than my CPU heaksink (often so cool you couldn't even tell that it was on - good news for me). I dropped the NB core voltage and that seems to have helped a bit but it is still hot. Is that typical? And is there a way to get a reading on the NB temp, such as some application which can measure it?

P.S. Thanks a million, I'm really learning a lot here.


Nvidia Chipsets are known to produce more heat, thats the reason why mine is sat under a waterblock. If you use SpeedFan it will tell you the mean temp between the NB and SB, but i cant remember which readin it will be.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mreco*


ok, i upped the vcore to 1.3875 and now 1475 fsb 'seems' stable (3dmark06 and crysis bench)

my core0 temps got to nearly 50 when on 3dmark06 is this ok?


Download Orthos and then run it. It will stress your CPU more than 3dMark. If it goes near 60Â°c, stop. You may either need to back down your OC or set the vcore down a notch or 2


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mreco*


ok, i upped the vcore to 1.3875 and now 1475 fsb 'seems' stable (3dmark06 and crysis bench)

my core0 temps got to nearly 50 when on 3dmark06 is this ok?


Based on what I've recently learned about the core temps I'd say 50 is fine. Pheoxs said 60 and under is the "safe" zone for core temps. When I Orthos'd my cores ran up to about 53-54 for about 10 minutes with no problems. What speed are you running your CPU at though? I have a E6750 @ 2.66GHz - OC'd @ 3.1GHz (working on upping it).


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Nvidia Chipsets are known to produce more heat, thats the reason why mine is sat under a waterblock. If you use SpeedFan it will tell you the mean temp between the NB and SB, but i cant remember which readin it will be.


That's a bit comforting. ;-) Do you think you can tell which temp it is in SpeedFan from looking at my screen on the last page?

Edit: Looking at my screen shot again reminds me: Why does it report my ambient temp as '0'? Perhaps my system is not equiped with a proper sensor for ambient temp?


----------



## C2H6O

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


Sounds like what happened to me when I forgot to plug in my 12V connector from my power supply to the board. You sure you didn't unplug anything? But heck if you did something to a capacitor or something else hardware related there are dozens of possible causes. I'm not sure if clocking the FSB too high would prevent the PC from starting though, it probably just wouldn't POST and then upon restart would reset to factory defaults (the built in fail-safe). I've already done that twice, but mine at the very least started. I'd gamble it's power related.

P.S. To anyone more knowledgable than I on this board: feel free to correct me.


I have removed a stick of ram, checked the two power connectors on the mobo, reset the CMOS...

A few days ago, I unplugged the computer, moved to another power outlet, used it for a few minutes, and then moved it back to where I normally use it at. I powered it on, no problem. Came back yesterday, and found it was off. Pushed in the power button, and immediately shut off. Not even posting.

What else can I check to see if it is posting??


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


False. You cannot _raise_ the multi on any C2D chip. You can lower them. Yours is stock at 9, you did not raise it. Just a miscommunication


You said it cannot be higher than x7.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *C2H6O*


If it were to be, say, broken, would it prevent the puter from starting up?


Duh?


----------



## C2H6O

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 

Duh?









Well, I meant whether or not it was redundant or subcritical.


----------



## Awesome

They rarely put redundancies on a motherboard... keeps costs down.


----------



## butteredtoast

hey! im lookin for a good NB and SB heatsink and i was wondering if someone could give me an idea of something cheap that would work well with this m/b... Thanks!


----------



## mreco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Download Orthos and then run it. It will stress your CPU more than 3dMark. If it goes near 60Â°c, stop. You may either need to back down your OC or set the vcore down a notch or 2


Quote:
Originally Posted by mreco 
ok, i upped the vcore to 1.3875 and now 1475 fsb 'seems' stable (3dmark06 and crysis bench)

Quote:



cybershark5886 
Based on what I've recently learned about the core temps I'd say 50 is fine. Pheoxs said 60 and under is the "safe" zone for core temps. When I Orthos'd my cores ran up to about 53-54 for about 10 minutes with no problems. What speed are you running your CPU at though? I have a E6750 @ 2.66GHz - OC'd @ 3.1GHz (working on upping it).


thanks
my cpu is at 3.29ghz, ill run orthos


----------



## sp7nky

Hey guys, I'm really new to Overclocking. My friend kind of taught me the basics for it. But as for now, I am stuck. I do not get it as to why when I set my FSB to 1360 and test for stability, it ran 20 Hours on Orthos and 8 Hours on Prime95 without a glitch. But 60% of the time, the PC just refuse to POST. I am kind of frustrated about it but i do not know what to do other than purchasing a POST analyzer card to tell me what is wrong (which i have not done). Any ideas?

CPU Volt : 1.5v
NB Volt : 1.5xxV
Mem Volt : 2.085V

Memory Timing : 4-4-4-12 2T


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


That's a bit comforting. ;-) Do you think you can tell which temp it is in SpeedFan from looking at my screen on the last page?

Edit: Looking at my screen shot again reminds me: Why does it report my ambient temp as '0'? Perhaps my system is not equiped with a proper sensor for ambient temp?


I would have to install SpeedFan just to have a look. Get a thermostat to read ambient temps.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


You said it cannot be higher than x7.










What he meant was, you cant change the multi above what this chip is already at unless its an extreme.


----------



## mreco

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mreco
ok, i upped the vcore to 1.3875 and now 1475 fsb 'seems' stable (3dmark06 and crysis bench)

thanks
my cpu is at 3.29ghz, ill run orthos


Ran orthos for 30mins (boring init lol) temps didnt get above 45c, weirdly 3dmark06 temps went higher, but i noticed the cores and mem were nearly 100% usage all the time, were 3dmark06 didnt use the core and mem 100% all the time, strange 3dmark06 made the cores hotter.

Any thoughts?


----------



## mreco

i had a reply a while ago saying that on this board and with my chip (e6600 B2) it was considered fairly safe to increase the VCORE to no more than 1.45v

Can some others add some comments on this, cos i dont wanna over push my cpu (its on 1.3875v, it seems each time i add a bit more, it makes it stable at the increased FSB's)

thanks for your knowledge

Simon


----------



## aleiro

just remount the NB with better thermal compound and take the asus sticker off (the sticker is aluminum and lame, but does a good job insulating the top of the NB), my temps went down by 4c just by doing that. I put a CNPS9700 nt on my board and now my NB is lower than my CPU idle temp. My NB at idle was around 39 and playing games with SLI peaked at 41C. Now it idles at 33C and peaks at 34C which i thought was a vast improvement

Quote:


Originally Posted by *butteredtoast* 
hey! im lookin for a good NB and SB heatsink and i was wondering if someone could give me an idea of something cheap that would work well with this m/b... Thanks!


----------



## aleiro

Personally i only run 1.44v to test, as for 24/7 i dont go any higher than 1.39v

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
i had a reply a while ago saying that on this board and with my chip (e6600 B2) it was considered fairly safe to increase the VCORE to no more than 1.45v

Can some others add some comments on this, cos i dont wanna over push my cpu (its on 1.3875v, it seems each time i add a bit more, it makes it stable at the increased FSB's)

thanks for your knowledge

Simon


----------



## aleiro

run the blend test

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mreco* 
Ran orthos for 30mins (boring init lol) temps didnt get above 45c, weirdly 3dmark06 temps went higher, but i noticed the cores and mem were nearly 100% usage all the time, were 3dmark06 didnt use the core and mem 100% all the time, strange 3dmark06 made the cores hotter.

Any thoughts?


----------



## aleiro

your voltages are really high put your NB on 1.39v or auto (1.25v), as for why it will not post you are probably in a hole. Mine fsb hole is 334-360 (fsb 1336-1440).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sp7nky* 
Hey guys, I'm really new to Overclocking. My friend kind of taught me the basics for it. But as for now, I am stuck. I do not get it as to why when I set my FSB to 1360 and test for stability, it ran 20 Hours on Orthos and 8 Hours on Prime95 without a glitch. But 60% of the time, the PC just refuse to POST. I am kind of frustrated about it but i do not know what to do other than purchasing a POST analyzer card to tell me what is wrong (which i have not done). Any ideas?

CPU Volt : 1.5v
NB Volt : 1.5xxV
Mem Volt : 2.085V

Memory Timing : 4-4-4-12 2T


----------



## aleiro

the people associated with this thread (including me) are not the only people using this board. I know three people (in real life not on a forum) who use this board and hate forums including OCN. So for you to say people cant get over 1000mhz doesnt mean anything to me... and second i am not going to read the first hundred pages. Do you ever see me asking questions? I change my OC weekly and i havent seen a BSOD in 6 months. As for the voltages we have already gone over how they work, if you dont believe me that is fine. But seeing as you obviously do not own the equipment to verify your claim i find it moot.

EDIT: i wanted to add the last bsod i had what related to Vista sound drivers and good old realtek...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Well considering when i joined this thread, people couldnt get RAM over 1000Mhz. Why dont you look within the first 100 pages then? Well considering that you believe 100% that Auto is stock voltages, they are only stock at stock values. So if you leave the voltages at stock and increase the FSB your voltages will increase.


----------



## sp7nky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


your voltages are really high put your NB on 1.39v or auto (1.25v), as for why it will not post you are probably in a hole. Mine fsb hole is 334-360 (fsb 1336-1440).



So, even if stress test indicates that the system is stable, if it does not POST, it falls in a hole?
Isn't setting NB volt to 1.39 or auto a little low? or is it sufficient?


----------



## aleiro

you could probably run lower voltages and still be stable. As for your posting problem i would probably run at 1333 for a little while and see if the issue goes away

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sp7nky*


So, even if stress test indicates that the system is stable, if it does not POST, it falls in a hole?
Isn't setting NB volt to 1.39 or auto a little low? or is it sufficient?


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *butteredtoast*


hey! im lookin for a good NB and SB heatsink and i was wondering if someone could give me an idea of something cheap that would work well with this m/b... Thanks!


First page, 2nd post.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


just remount the NB with better thermal compound and take the asus sticker off (the sticker is aluminum and lame, but does a good job insulating the top of the NB), my temps went down by 4c just by doing that. I put a CNPS9700 nt on my board and now my NB is lower than my CPU idle temp. My NB at idle was around 39 and playing games with SLI peaked at 41C. Now it idles at 33C and peaks at 34C which i thought was a vast improvement



Hmm... you are right; taking the sticker off caused my temps to drop slightly.

However, adding a Zalman 9700 isn't going to affect your NB temps, dude.









On that note... how do you get the freaking NB sink off????


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sp7nky* 
So, even if stress test indicates that the system is stable, if it does not POST, it falls in a hole?
Isn't setting NB volt to 1.39 or auto a little low? or is it sufficient?

A hole causes the computer not to POST because it's unstable. Your computer won't even run with such settings. If your mobo doesn't POST it reverts to the last known good configuration and ignores your last setting, so if it doesn't POST and you don't bother to go into the BIOS and set it to a new speed "outside the hole" and just boot up you're running stability tests on a previous configuration, not your new one (which won't work because it's in the hole). Holes tend to appear in 25-50mhz increments (from what I've noticed), so up it a little more and see if you can get out of it.

As for the NB, I'm running my NB at 1.39 and it works fine, and is quite preferable, seeing how my NB heatsink runs hot as it is and the lower voltage means less heat.


----------



## cybershark5886

I have a question about a voltage warning I got last night, twice, before I decided to up the Vcore to be safe.

Last night when running orthos, as the temps went up on the cores the Vcore fluctuated between (mainly dropped from) 1.36V to 1.3141V (which I believe such a drop is expected under a load), but twice last night in PC Probe II the Vcore voltage suddenly flashed red to 0.00 for 1 second and then recovered, which turned on an annoying dooms-day sounding audio alarm which sounded like it came from the movie Goldeneye. I ignored it, but I thought there might be too much VDroop under a load (and I do have the +.1 offset enabled). So I upped the VCore a bit, and no problems since, but I still need to test it under orthos again. Do you think that theory is correct, about it being a *VDroop* problem? But then again, SpeedFan and CPU-Z reported no drop, even though PC Probe reported it for a split-second.

I'd appreciate any feedback.


----------



## aleiro

After i got the sticker off i cleaned the residue off with rubbing alcohol.

And if you mount the 9700 with the fan pointing to the NB so the air is pushed up instead of to the back you pull the air through the NB. I have a P182 case with a fan on the top so it is basically a push-pull setup.

Removing the NB is easy:
take the mobo out of the case
set the mobo on its side and hold on the the NB
get needle nose pliers and squeeze the plastic pins until it pops through (GENTLY, dont crush the pins because you will need them again








once the pins are through then set the mobo down and pull carefully on the NB. the paste asus uses will chip and the NB will probably be literally glued on but it does come off.

It took me about an hour to clean both surfaces and i use antec silver compound formula 5... whatever it is called which is just as good as AS5 at a third the price.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Hmm... you are right; taking the sticker off caused my temps to drop slightly.

However, adding a Zalman 9700 isn't going to affect your NB temps, dude.









On that note... how do you get the freaking NB sink off????


----------



## Farmerjoe

Hey.. I wanted to know if there's any risk in doing the Vdroop pencil mod on this board? I'm very annoyed with the incredible high Vdroop that occures under load and the pencil mod sounds easier to do than soldering a varible resistor on, although the latter method is the most precise. But are there any downsides to the pencil mod (e.g. will the effect get reduced over time or whatever?)


----------



## aleiro

It is possible that your voltage was too low, but i would set the +100mv to auto and manually set the vcore voltage. I have found that the higher you go with the +100mv on, say to 3.2 ghz, the vdroop becomes larger and larger so you have to raise the vcore voltage to compensate for the drop.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


I have a question about a voltage warning I got last night, twice, before I decided to up the Vcore to be safe.

Last night when running orthos, as the temps went up on the cores the Vcore fluctuated between (mainly dropped from) 1.36V to 1.3141V (which I believe such a drop is expected under a load), but twice last night in PC Probe II the Vcore voltage suddenly flashed red to 0.00 for 1 second and then recovered, which turned on an annoying dooms-day sounding audio alarm which sounded like it came from the movie Goldeneye. I ignored it, but I thought there might be too much VDroop under a load (and I do have the +.1 offset enabled). So I upped the VCore a bit, and no problems since, but I still need to test it under orthos again. Do you think that theory is correct, about it being a *VDroop* problem? But then again, SpeedFan and CPU-Z reported no drop, even though PC Probe reported it for a split-second.

I'd appreciate any feedback.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


If your mobo doesn't POST it reverts to the last known good configuration and ignores your last setting, so if it doesn't POST and you don't bother to go into the BIOS and set it to a new speed "outside the hole" and just boot up you're running stability tests on a previous configuration, not your new one (which won't work because it's in the hole).


Not always... I had to reset the CMOS a few times because the voltage doesn't get reset when the mobo doesn't POST.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


After i got the sticker off i cleaned the residue off with rubbing alcohol.

And if you mount the 9700 with the fan pointing to the NB so the air is pushed up instead of to the back you pull the air through the NB. I have a P182 case with a fan on the top so it is basically a push-pull setup.

Removing the NB is easy: 
take the mobo out of the case
set the mobo on its side and hold on the the NB
get needle nose pliers and squeeze the plastic pins until it pops through (GENTLY, dont crush the pins because you will need them again








once the pins are through then set the mobo down and pull carefully on the NB. the paste asus uses will chip and the NB will probably be literally glued on but it does come off.

It took me about an hour to clean both surfaces and i use antec silver compound formula 5... whatever it is called which is just as good as AS5 at a third the price.


Actually I mounted it the same exact way (only way it'll fit in my case with the PSU) and it doesn't pull air through the NB, just over the top, which doesn't really do any good because the fan is so close to the NB.

Darn... was hoping I didn't have to take the mobo out. I guess I'll do that when I get a new NB and SB heatsink.
Actually my NB is just sitting on the chip... I was trying to pull it off and it's definitely not glued to the NB.








And yeah, I use OCZ Silver Thermal.









What is this "Pencil Mod"? Does it have anything to do with all these spam emails I keep getting?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


You said it cannot be higher than x7.









Duh?










*Upping the multi* to 8 for _example_ (*Not possible on C2D chips* unless its Extreme series)

Upping multi is not possible. That was an example, using an e6300 (7x multi, my chip).


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
It is possible that your voltage was too low, but i would set the +100mv to auto and manually set the vcore voltage. I have found that the higher you go with the +100mv on, say to 3.2 ghz, the vdroop becomes larger and larger so you have to raise the vcore voltage to compensate for the drop.


How does that work? I thought the whole pupose of the +100mV setting being enabled was to combat Vdroop. Are you saying that having it on at higher speeds (3.2GHz - actually that's my speed) makes it Vdroop more? If so, please explain to me how the voltages work a little more, as I would like to learn. After that incident I upped the Vcore by .015 (two settings upwards), but left the +.100mV on.


----------



## aleiro

I do think you are right, that the +100mv is suppose to reduce vdroop but when i had my e6400 at 3.2 i needed 1.45v to be stable with +100mv enabled but only 1.42v when i manually set the vcore. Its not really scientific, simple observations using orthos and a couple of programs to monitor the voltage in half second increments.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
How does that work? I thought the whole pupose of the +100mV setting being enabled was to combat Vdroop. Are you saying that having it on at higher speeds (3.2GHz - actually that's my speed) makes it Vdroop more? If so, please explain to me how the voltages work a little more, as I would like to learn. After that incident I upped the Vcore by .015 (two settings upwards), but left the +.100mV on.


----------



## TriBeCa

hi everyone! I see we have some new faces in here. Sorry I been away for a while









Got me a new PSU and am testing my sig OC again. I'm sure none of your remember, but I was stable for a while at 3.4GHz which then became unstable after a week or so, so I went to my sig OC. That became unstable after another week or so. So I went to 3GHz, and then THAT became unstable after a week or so. I became convinced that my POS Ultra 500W PSU was going...and just put in a coolermaster 750W an hour ago. So wish me luck.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
How does that work? I thought the whole pupose of the +100mV setting being enabled was to combat Vdroop. Are you saying that having it on at higher speeds (3.2GHz - actually that's my speed) makes it Vdroop more? If so, please explain to me how the voltages work a little more, as I would like to learn. After that incident I upped the Vcore by .015 (two settings upwards), but left the +.100mV on.

The easiest way to think about vdroop is in terms of the voltage formula: V = P/I where P is power and and I is current. Your P is ~constant (it's not actually, but it helps if you think about it this way), and when you load your CPU it increases the current draw. I goes up, P stays the same, and so V necessarily drops. That's vdroop.

Now that you've wrapped your head around that, P *does* actually go up under load, it just doesn't go up enough to keep V constant. So the reason the +100mV helps combat vdroop is because the +100mV from that setting are actually a pair of seperate mosfets from the rest of the CPU mosfets (see the picture on page 3 of the guide in my sig). So because you're reducing the load on the rest of the CPU mosfets and drawing it off those instead, your board is able to provide slightly more P and so V doesn't fall as much.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Not always... I had to reset the CMOS a few times because the voltage doesn't get reset when the mobo doesn't POST.









What is this "Pencil Mod"? Does it have anything to do with all these spam emails I keep getting?









1) I haven't read back...but how are you resetting CMOS? 95% of the time you can reset it just by pressing your reset button 10 times in a row without letting a full power-up cycle occur. Much, much easier than jumper+battery method.

2) The pencil mod is where you take a graphite pencil and 'draw' over two conections on the motherboard. People report very good results in terms of reducing vdroop on this board (e.g. from 0.08V to 0.02V).


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
Well, perhaps I misunderstood your intention but I got the idea from the OP where you said "Set vcore to your CPU's stock setting *minus* 100mV (so, if your chip is 1.325V at stock, set it to 1.225), set memory voltage to the highest value *less* than your RAMs stock voltage, set NB voltage to 1.393". That is dropping the voltages. I was wondering why you would want to do that when overclocking?

For the CPU, you're not actually dropping the voltage, you're manually setting it to stock voltage with the +100mV option on. If your chip is 1.325V and you set it to 1.325V with +100mV on your board will supply the chip with 1.325V. You'll most likely increase this as you go on, but because we don't want vcore as low as possible while staying stable, you want to start at stock and only increase vcore as needed.

And with vdimm you're not really reducing voltage.... The board is only capable of supplying voltages at the vdimm settings you see in the BIOS, so you're just picking the highest one that doesn't violate the warranty on your RAM.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
P.S. Being the supreme newbie that I am to overclocking, may I ask how you gained all your knowledge of how OCing works? Years of practice? A degree in Computer Science or Electrical Engineering? None of the previous esoteric options?







I have an Associates in CS and am working toward my Bachelors degree. Any low-level info I can gain on PC hardware would be invaluable to me (and there aren't many good in-depth tutorials online - that I know about anyway). Like the MOSFET cooling deal, whoa... that's a bit exotic to me. You've really got to be a hardcore OCer to get into that. I'd be afraid I'd break something.







So if you have any nuggets of knowlegde that you could impart to me (or point me to) I'd be eternally grateful (like an in-depth, low level coverage of OCing for starters).

~Josh

...actually, just 8 months of experience OCing







That and the main P5N-E thread here, plus the odd thing read elsewhere on the internet. There's no substitute for practical experience, and talking to knowledgeable people on OC.net!


----------



## C2H6O

If I were to OC to about 3.0 GHz with a e6750, would anyone suggest whether or not I should add new NB and SB heatsinks? Trying to avoid filling up my case with HR-05's.


----------



## TriBeCa

trying to remember the default multi on the 6750. is it 8x? if so, then you shouldn't need a new NB cooler to hit 3GHz. You should be able to manage 325FSB at 1.39 vNB, though I suppose it's theoretically possible you'll need 1.56. Just reseat the NB with AS5 before you install the board and it should be fine.


----------



## C2H6O

yea, 8x I think. Good, I have some AS5 handy. Those little snappers on the NB are reattachable, right? THnx


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *C2H60*
If I were to OC to about 3.0 GHz with a e6750, would anyone suggest whether or not I should add new NB and SB heatsinks? Trying to avoid filling up my case with HR-05's.

Just FYI, I have the e6750 and last night I sucessfully got it up to 3.2 GHz, with no serious heat issues. I doubt you'll need to modify anything.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
trying to remember the default multi on the 6750. is it 8x? if so, then you shouldn't need a new NB cooler to hit 3GHz. You should be able to manage 325FSB at 1.39 vNB, though I suppose it's theoretically possible you'll need 1.56. Just reseat the NB with AS5 before you install the board and it should be fine.

Yes it is 8x (locked). And my NB is at 1.39V, and the FSB at 400 to accomplish 3.2 GHz. It ran fine. The only issue was my Vcore. I'll bring that up in my next post though...


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribeca*
The easiest way to think about vdroop is in terms of the voltage formula: V = P/I where P is power and and I is current. Your P is ~constant (it's not actually, but it helps if you think about it this way), and when you load your CPU it increases the current draw. I goes up, P stays the same, and so V necessarily drops. That's vdroop.

Now that you've wrapped your head around that, P *does* actually go up under load, it just doesn't go up enough to keep V constant. So the reason the +100mV helps combat vdroop is because the +100mV from that setting are actually a pair of seperate mosfets from the rest of the CPU mosfets (see the picture on page 3 of the guide in my sig). So because you're reducing the load on the rest of the CPU mosfets and drawing it off those instead, your board is able to provide slightly more P and so V doesn't fall as much.

Thanks for the datailed explanation. I actually picked up a bit of that from your other thread (that's where I got the idea to enable the +.100mV - thus why I asked why you "dropped" the Vcore voltage - but now I understand that you compensated). Now that being said, do you think the problem I had was due to VDroop (see last page). Why would it flash 0.00V (and only in PC Probe - not CPU-Z or SpeedFan)? And as a confirmation question: I suppose it is normal after all to see such a VCore fluctuation from 1.36V to 1.3141V as I did under a full load?

And while I'm at it, now that I've achieved a 400MHz FSB would I gain any benefit from downclocking my RAM to its stock speed (800MHz - I was able to safely run it at 900MHz, its current speed). Would the 1:1 ratio make up for any difference by running 100MHz slower with it? What are the pros and cons of doing that (I'm sure it goes both ways)?

Thanks.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
For the CPU, you're not actually dropping the voltage, you're manually setting it to stock voltage with the +100mV option on. If your chip is 1.325V and you set it to 1.325V with +100mV on your board will supply the chip with 1.325V. You'll most likely increase this as you go on, but because we don't want vcore as low as possible while staying stable, you want to start at stock and only increase vcore as needed.

And with vdimm you're not really reducing voltage.... The board is only capable of supplying voltages at the vdimm settings you see in the BIOS, so you're just picking the highest one that doesn't violate the warranty on your RAM.

When you said, "If your chip is 1.325V and you set it to 1.325V with +.100mV" did you mean to write the second "1.325V" as 1.225V instead, because I thought that 1.325V +.100mv would make it 1.425V. I assume you mean that you drop the Vcore _setting_ but enable the offset which puts it _right back_ at stock voltage. I tried to get my Dad to explain this to me (he's an electronics technician) and he mentioned something about how the offset would help combat Vdroop in relation to the voltage going negative, something about keeping it from going negative. I'm not sure if he was talking about the actual clock cycle (the mobo runs on AC right, thus having neg Voltage as well?) or if he merely meant negative in the sense of it dropping. Perhaps you could elaborate a little for me.







How exactly is the offset different than just keeping the Vcore at stock voltage w/ out the offset?

Quote:

...actually, just 8 months of experience OCing







That and the main P5N-E thread here, plus the odd thing read elsewhere on the internet. There's no substitute for practical experience, and talking to knowledgeable people on Overclock.net!








Well, perhaps I can grow as savy. I'm already learning at a surprising rate here. Good stuff.









~Josh


----------



## hometoast

@ My vdroop went down to .02 after my pencil mod. vcore is reported slightly higher than what bios is set at (before it was right on). Some have reported they add the pencil marks while the computer's running.. not recommended sure. But I think that speaks to the simplicity of it. If you add too much.. just erase it.









@ C2H6O: I'm running 3.0Ghz on my 6720 with 1.3 NB, 1.35 (stock) vcore.

Now for me. I can't get it to OC past 1500 (375) fsb.
I've inched my way all the way to 1800.
1500 is my last stable (no rounding errors).
up to and including 1600 I can POST and (most of the time) boot into windows.
1610 + I dont post AT ALL. my Power and HDD LEDs just sit there solid, staring at me. I reset and I get into that "failsafe" kind of mode where it'll boot at 2.00 Ghz (with a 6x multi).

I've gone up to 1800 with my vcore from 1.4 all the way to 1.52. My NB at 1.3. I've then worked my way back down with NB at 1.5 and the results are the same... as soon as I hit 1600 I could POST again and at 1500 it was stable.

any more ideas or should I just be content with 3.0 (an 11% OC)?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
@ My vdroop went down to .02 after my pencil mod. vcore is reported slightly higher than what bios is set at (before it was right on). Some have reported they add the pencil marks while the computer's running.. not recommended sure. But I think that speaks to the simplicity of it. If you add too much.. just erase it.









@ C2H6O: I'm running 3.0Ghz on my 6720 with 1.3 NB, 1.35 (stock) vcore.

Now for me. I can't get it to OC past 1500 (375) fsb.
I've inched my way all the way to 1800.
1500 is my last stable (no rounding errors).
up to and including 1600 I can POST and (most of the time) boot into windows.
1610 + I dont post AT ALL. my Power and HDD LEDs just sit there solid, staring at me. I reset and I get into that "failsafe" kind of mode where it'll boot at 2.00 Ghz (with a 6x multi).

I've gone up to 1800 with my vcore from 1.4 all the way to 1.52. My NB at 1.3. I've then worked my way back down with NB at 1.5 and the results are the same... as soon as I hit 1600 I could POST again and at 1500 it was stable.

any more ideas or should I just be content with 3.0 (an 11% OC)?

Do you still have the stock NB cooler / paste? I couldn't post 3.2ghz (400fbs * 8) but after I swapped the stock out for my HR-03-SLI, I'm at 3.2Ghz stable, maybe your NB is just running too hot?

Try dropping the multi down to 6 or 7 and inching the FSB up, if you still can't post, its a MB limitation not the CPU.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


the people associated with this thread (including me) are not the only people using this board. I know three people (in real life not on a forum) who use this board and hate forums including OCN. So for you to say people cant get over 1000mhz doesnt mean anything to me... and second i am not going to read the first hundred pages. Do you ever see me asking questions? I change my OC weekly and i havent seen a BSOD in 6 months. As for the voltages we have already gone over how they work, if you dont believe me that is fine. But seeing as you obviously do not own the equipment to verify your claim i find it moot.

EDIT: i wanted to add the last bsod i had what related to Vista sound drivers and good old realtek...


Your soo stuborn. You've only gone over how you think they work. Why dont you test and find out that if you leave it at auto and change the fsb to say 400, will the voltage go up or stay the same?


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Do you still have the stock NB cooler / paste? I couldn't post 3.2ghz (400fbs * 8) but after I swapped the stock out for my HR-03-SLI, I'm at 3.2Ghz stable, maybe your NB is just running too hot?

Try dropping the multi down to 6 or 7 and inching the FSB up, if you still can't post, its a MB limitation not the CPU.


I am running the stock cooler (no paste yet) on the NB. I can't see why it would run nice and cool at 3.0 and so hot it can't get past POST at 3.2+. I _always_ check my FSB speeds at 6X multi then bump to 8 after testing.

For the NB cooling I should just DO IT already; I know.


----------



## Unreal187

Can anybody explain why im unable to get a 1:1 divider?









My system simply fails to boot whenever i try to do so. E.g. atm im running 260FSB CPU : 800 MEM (13:20) but if i try 260 CPU : 520 MEM (1:1) and boot, the monitor just stays amber and fails to turn on, and that happens with all FSB's and MEM's where i try and achieve 1:1.


----------



## Unreal187

Hey TriBeCa...Core Temp reports my VID as *1.2875v*, does that mean i should set my vcore to *"1.18750v"* in the mobo and offset to *+100mv*


----------



## aleiro

I told you five pages ago... its already been tested and with a multi meter. Run your mobo how you want and stop posting...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Your soo stuborn. You've only gone over how you think they work. Why dont you test and find out that if you leave it at auto and change the fsb to say 400, will the voltage go up or stay the same?


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
I told you five pages ago... its already been tested and with a multi meter. Run your mobo how you want and stop posting...









You say you ran it, but all you could have done is run it at stock. Why dont you test it with a high fsb and see what voltage it runs at. It shouldnt be too hard since you've done it once before.


----------



## hometoast

This is definitely off topic, but WHY aliero do you come off as ticked-off at everyone when you post? I'm actually unsubscribing from this thread because I'm tired of reading your posts.


----------



## aleiro

What are you talking about? running what at stock? check my sig.. i have run up to 3.2ghz WHICH AS I SAID BEFORE AT 395 THE NB MUST BE UPPED TO 1.39 ANYTHING BELOW CAN BE RUN ON AUTO (1.25v). You know you should really reread all the posts before you ask questions. Sounds to me like YOU should start reading the first 100 pages... Second, i am not getting my digital camera out to produce a FAQ... theres no point. How about you prove me wrong, i dont think you have the knowledge or expertise but i will give you the benefit of the doubt.

you cant run 400 on auto it wont post. Seriously we have already gone over this... the original argument was about the voltage of auto and it doesnt matter what you do setting the NB on auto will only yeild 1.25v that is why you must change it at around 400.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 







You say you ran it, but all you could have done is run it at stock. Why dont you test it with a high fsb and see what voltage it runs at. It shouldnt be too hard since you've done it once before.


----------



## aleiro

dont worry about it.. i not coming to OCN anymore... i thought i could learn something but all i ever do is answer questions to stuff people should know already

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
This is definitely off topic, but WHY aliero do you come off as ticked-off at everyone when you post? I'm actually unsubscribing from this thread because I'm tired of reading your posts.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
What are you talking about? running what at stock? check my sig.. i have run up to 3.2ghz WHICH AS I SAID BEFORE AT 395 THE NB MUST BE UPPED TO 1.39 ANYTHING BELOW CAN BE RUN ON AUTO (1.25v). You know you should really reread all the posts before you ask questions. Sounds to me like YOU should start reading the first 100 pages... Second, i am not getting my digital camera out to produce a FAQ... theres no point. How about you prove me wrong, i dont think you have the knowledge or expertise but i will give you the benefit of the doubt.

you cant run 400 on auto it wont post. Seriously we have already gone over this... the original argument was about the voltage of auto and it doesnt matter what you do setting the NB on auto will only yeild 1.25v that is why you must change it at around 400.

How about you do it since you have all the equipment for it. I dont feel like stripping out my system out inculding WC loop. I will be soo glad to get either a P35 or X38, it means i can get away from a idiot like you. How about you learn to post underneath any quotes you do as well.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
dont worry about it.. i not coming to OCN anymore... i thought i could learn something but all i ever do is answer questions to stuff people should know already

Thats because you chose to. Why do you think people like Pook, Kopi and maybe Dpawl arent around anymore? This thread wasnt about poeple coimng in and asking for help, it was about the board, your OC etc.


----------



## TriBeCa

ok, i missed this argument, but i don't like the way this is going. this thread has always been about giving information and advice freely, and while people have certainly disagree about things I've never seen animosity quite like this. it would be a real shame to see people leaving the thread because of this.

so...everyone please just cool off.

it's not even that important whether or not the AUTO setting on the NB ramps up with higher FSBs the way vcore does on auto. just set it manually instead of using the auto setting









Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
Thanks for the datailed explanation. I actually picked up a bit of that from your other thread (that's where I got the idea to enable the +.100mV - thus why I asked why you "dropped" the Vcore voltage - but now I understand that you compensated). Now that being said, do you think the problem I had was due to VDroop (see last page). Why would it flash 0.00V (and only in PC Probe - not CPU-Z or SpeedFan)? And as a confirmation question: I suppose it is normal after all to see such a VCore fluctuation from 1.36V to 1.3141V as I did under a full load?

And while I'm at it, now that I've achieved a 400MHz FSB would I gain any benefit from downclocking my RAM to its stock speed (800MHz - I was able to safely run it at 900MHz, its current speed). Would the 1:1 ratio make up for any difference by running 100MHz slower with it? What are the pros and cons of doing that (I'm sure it goes both ways)?

Thanks.

I wouldn't worry about anything PC Probe does. Just stick with other more reliable software. And yes, a 0.05v fluctuation is well within the realm of normal on this board.

As for your RAM I'm gonna guess you can get slightly more bandwidth out of keeping the clock speed at stock and tightening the timings, but the only way to know for sure is to tighten timings at 800 and compare benchmarks with the clock at 900. OCing RAM timings can be a bit tricky because there're so many of them...but I'd recommend taking a look at the link in my sig.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Now for me. I can't get it to OC past 1500 (375) fsb.
I've inched my way all the way to 1800.
1500 is my last stable (no rounding errors).
up to and including 1600 I can POST and (most of the time) boot into windows.
1610 + I dont post AT ALL. my Power and HDD LEDs just sit there solid, staring at me. I reset and I get into that "failsafe" kind of mode where it'll boot at 2.00 Ghz (with a 6x multi).

I've gone up to 1800 with my vcore from 1.4 all the way to 1.52. My NB at 1.3. I've then worked my way back down with NB at 1.5 and the results are the same... as soon as I hit 1600 I could POST again and at 1500 it was stable.

any more ideas or should I just be content with 3.0 (an 11% OC)?

I run into problems over 1600 as well...I suspect it's an FSB hole in the board. And, on my board at any rate, going over 1600 requires very large increases in vcore. As you can see, at 1650 I'm running 1.5375vcore. So the 1.52 you've tried might not be enough. And by the way--while I can get stable at 1650 (and probably 1700 now that I've replaced my PSU, we'll see after I run 1650 for a week) I can't get stable at 1625, and can't post at all between roughly 1601-1625.

I think with more vcore and maybe trying 1.75vNB suicide runs (just to see if you post...but at least reseat with AS5 first) you can post over 1600, and hopefully you'll be able to reduce vNB once you find a comfortable spot. If not..then I'd focus on trying to get stable at 1600 or so. 3.2GHz should be doable for you....


----------



## kinnth

Hello all I need some help.

Please check my system for full spec.

I have basically been tinkering with my bios on my asus p5n-e sli board and caused it to lock up. I upgraded to the latest revision of the bios with little trouble version 0703 from 0608, and the comp had been running fine for a week or so however I lost all my overclock settings from 0608, but decided to leave it untill tonight.

I prefered the bios setting in 0608 so using the asus ez flash method that i used to upgrade my bios I wanted to put the 0608 back on. I carried out the same procedure as the upgrade and the bios said it checked out fine, then it said it wanted to restart.

However after the restart I get the post beep the screen comes on but only as far as the asus default boot screen and then the system hangs. I have tried switching on off repeatedly, turning of power for 20 mins and restarting and removed the bios battery from the pc but all to no avail, i still cant get past this boot screen. How can I either reset my board or get it to boot up. I have some important data that needs to be handed in on thursday so worst comes to the worst ill buy a new motherboard and plug in my old hd to get it off, however i just want to get the pc working again, any help is much appreciated.

Thanks Tom


----------



## kinnth

Hello all I need some help.

Please check my system for full spec.

I have basically been tinkering with my bios on my asus p5n-e sli board and caused it to lock up. I upgraded to the latest revision of the bios with little trouble version 0703 from 0608, and the comp had been running fine for a week or so however I lost all my overclock settings from 0608, but decided to leave it untill tonight.

I prefered the bios setting in 0608 so using the asus ez flash method that i used to upgrade my bios I wanted to put the 0608 back on. I carried out the same procedure as the upgrade and the bios said it checked out fine, then it said it wanted to restart.

However after the restart I get the post beep the screen comes on but only as far as the asus default boot screen and then the system hangs. I have tried switching on off repeatedly, turning of power for 20 mins and restarting and removed the bios battery from the pc but all to no avail, i still cant get past this boot screen. How can I either reset my board or get it to boot up. I have some important data that needs to be handed in on thursday so worst comes to the worst ill buy a new motherboard and plug in my old hd to get it off, however i just want to get the pc working again, any help is much appreciated.

Thanks Tom


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
When you said, "If your chip is 1.325V and you set it to 1.325V with +.100mV" did you mean to write the second "1.325V" as 1.225V instead, because I thought that 1.325V +.100mv would make it 1.425V. I assume you mean that you drop the Vcore _setting_ but enable the offset which puts it _right back_ at stock voltage. I tried to get my Dad to explain this to me (he's an electronics technician) and he mentioned something about how the offset would help combat Vdroop in relation to the voltage going negative, something about keeping it from going negative. I'm not sure if he was talking about the actual clock cycle (the mobo runs on AC right, thus having neg Voltage as well?) or if he merely meant negative in the sense of it dropping. Perhaps you could elaborate a little for me.







How exactly is the offset different than just keeping the Vcore at stock voltage w/ out the offset?

~Josh

oops, yeah I meant 1.225 not 1.325. The offset helps just because it has seperate mosfets that deliver that .1V, thereby reducing the demand on the other mosfets.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unreal187* 
Hey TriBeCa...Core Temp reports my VID as *1.2875v*, does that mean i should set my vcore to *"1.18750v"* in the mobo and offset to *+100mv*

look up intel's product page for your chip. easiest way is to go to the page on newegg, click 'manufacturer info' on the bottom left part of the page, then click on 'manufacturer product page' or whatever it's called. that should show you the stock voltage for your chip, which is where you want to start your vcore.


----------



## TriBeCa

sounds like it could be a bad bios flash...i had to RMA my board after a very similar experience









did you move the CMOS reset jumper when you took out the battery? your best bet will be take out the battery, move the jumper over, and leave it like that for a few hours. and of course make sure there's no power to the board.

and your system specs aren't showing up...try entering them again? User CP -> Edit System, make sure you save settings when done


----------



## Gauvenator

Has anybody else here put a southbridge cooler on?

I put on the heatsink only from the Cooler Master Blue Ice and I have seen a drop of only 1 degree celcius at idle (according to the sensor for the mobo temp).

I'm wondering if maybe I messed up my application of Arctic Alumina, or if this is just normal.

btw earlier someone said you can't get 400fsb on auto nb voltage, but that's exactly what I'm doing right now.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribeca*
oops, yeah I meant 1.225 not 1.325. The offset helps just because it has seperate mosfets that deliver that .1V, thereby reducing the demand on the other mosfets.

...and now the light bulb flickers on.







Thanks.

P.S. I've seen you mention mosfet cooling before. Does that merely affect (preserve) the mosfets or does it aid other components on the board (or chip) as well? (I saw that picture of where the mosfets were located on the board BTW - cool pic).


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I wouldn't worry about anything PC Probe does. Just stick with other more reliable software. And yes, a 0.05v fluctuation is well within the realm of normal on this board.

As for your RAM I'm gonna guess you can get slightly more bandwidth out of keeping the clock speed at stock and tightening the timings, but the only way to know for sure is to tighten timings at 800 and compare benchmarks with the clock at 900. OCing RAM timings can be a bit tricky because there're so many of them...but I'd recommend taking a look at the link in my sig.

Thanks for the advice and info! I think I'm finally getting in the groove with OCing for this board. Hopefully soon I'll be answering more questions than I'm asking.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Has anybody else here put a southbridge cooler on?

I put on the heatsink only from the Cooler Master Blue Ice and I have seen a drop of only 1 degree celcius at idle (according to the sensor for the mobo temp).

I'm wondering if maybe I messed up my application of Arctic Alumina, or if this is just normal.


I'm probably telling you something you already know but I doubt a south bridge heatsink will do much in light of the specific design of this board to have a "fanless southbridge architecture". It's also my understanding that the southbridge will not get near as hot as the NB on any mobo, although it never crossed my mind to feel my southbridge to see if it is warm (maybe I should). Was it running hot for you or something? I'd say good fan placement is a better candidate for lowering mobo temps.


----------



## cybershark5886

Has anyone had any issues or experimented with fan placement in your chassis for this board? I have to relocate my fan because its being counter productive. I placed two small fans on my VGA vent (the perfect width for both) on the case side panel (pulling cool air from outside and blowing it on the board) but without fail it raises my mobo temperature by *1C* each time I turn it on! I think its merely blowing the hot air from the video card up to the NB and processor and making them hotter.

Which reminds me, when I mentioned this to my Dad he assumed that was the problem as well, and made an acute observation that he said never made sense to him with board designs: That logic would dictate a better board design for the CPU and NB to be located at the bottom of the board since heat rises, which might mean lower temps at the bottom of the case. Unless of course the concern was that the heat would merely be transfered (but to less critical components atleast!) to other parts of the board. Just thought I'd go off on a tangent about that.

I want to place my fans at the front of the case blowing back toward the 120mm fan in the back, but I have a stupid additional 5 slot 3.25" bay (a total of 10 drive bays in the case!) right in the way. I may be able to mount a fan to the side of the bay (or I could remove the bay and buy 5.25" adapters for my drives).

Are there any other options available to me? Any suggestions for good fan placement?


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Has anybody else here put a southbridge cooler on?

I put on the heatsink only from the Cooler Master Blue Ice and I have seen a drop of only 1 degree celcius at idle (according to the sensor for the mobo temp).

I'm wondering if maybe I messed up my application of Arctic Alumina, or if this is just normal.

btw earlier someone said you can't get 400fsb on auto nb voltage, but that's exactly what I'm doing right now.


 I just put one on (stuck it on with thermal grease, hoping it sticks) with a fan. Your mobo temp will not drop visually, as mobo temp is read at the Northbridge.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


I'm probably telling you something you already know but I doubt a south bridge heatsink will do much in light of the specific design of this board to have a "fanless southbridge architecture". It's also my understanding that the southbridge will not get near as hot as the NB on any mobo, although it never crossed my mind to feel my southbridge to see if it is warm (maybe I should). Was it running hot for you or something? I'd say good fan placement is a better candidate for lowering mobo temps.


Southbridge tends to run very, very hot, especially under an overclock. Putting one on is recommended.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


Has anyone had any issues or experimented with fan placement in your chassis for this board? I have to relocate my fan because its being counter productive. I placed two small fans on my VGA vent (the perfect width for both) on the case side panel (pulling cool air from outside and blowing it on the board) but without fail it raises my mobo temperature by *1C* each time I turn it on! I think its merely blowing the hot air from the video card up to the NB and processor and making them hotter.

Which reminds me, when I mentioned this to my Dad he assumed that was the problem as well, and made an acute observation that he said never made sense to him with board designs: That logic would dictate a better board design for the CPU and NB to be located at the bottom of the board since heat rises, which might mean lower temps at the bottom of the case. Unless of course the concern was that the heat would merely be transfered (but to less critical components atleast!) to other parts of the board. Just thought I'd go off on a tangent about that.

Are there any other options available to me? Any suggestions for good fan placement?


Good fan placement means that you have more fans sucking air out the back of the case than you do blowing air in the front. It's a tight balance. Usually you have one or two fans in back that is/are slightly bigger than the one/ones in front. If there are ANY fans on the side of the case, they should be either sucking air out the case away from the video card, or blowing air onto the CPU cooler. I have a total of 6 fans in my case. 1 80mm fan sucking air in the front of the case, 1 80mm fan blowing air in the side vent directly onto my CPU cooler, 1 120mm fan on the CPU cooler (Zalman 9700) that is blowing directly up into 1 more 120mm fan sucking air out and through the PSU, 1 120mm (slow) fan sucking air out the back of the case, and finally, 1 tiny southbridge fan.







Technically it's a Northbridge fan, but meh... it's on the southbridge.

Having the NB and the SB on the top of the motherboard is convenient because that's the way cases are designed (slots) and it helps keep the entire thing cooler.

You want to create a heat vacuum in your case. As air gets sucked out, it pulls in more air through the fans pushing air into the case. If you have more air entering the case than exiting, then you will get a serious heat buildup inside the case because the hot air cannot escape fast enough. Your case will get dustier with a vacuum, but you can make cheap dust screens with some green scrubbies and some velcro.

I would like to note that northbridge heatsinks are not compatible with the southbridge on this motherboard. The SB holes are closer together than the NB holes are.

I removed my NB heatsink and scraped off the crud that was there and put some thermal paste on as recommended... I got a 2C drop as a result. That's good though, because now the mobo doesn't hit 40C. Be careful, the NB chips very easily.








I also had to increase my voltages again... 3.3 volts isn't enough for a 3.2 Ghz overclock... the voltage kept drooping down to 1.26 under heavy load, and depending on the load, it would crash. At 3.4 volts it only droops to 1.30, which I hope is stable enough. It runs slightly warmer though.


----------



## cybershark5886

Wow, I didn't think the SB would run hot. Why? The SB doesn't handle as much as the NB, does it? Is it the PCI bus that makes it run hot?

As for the fans, thanks for the info.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


Wow, I didn't think the SB would run hot. Why? The SB doesn't handle as much as the NB, does it? Is it the PCI bus that makes it run hot?

As for the fans, thanks for the info.










Not completely sure what the SB controls... I believe it controls all the I/O data, which on my machine means it gets pretty hot... 2 PCI cards, 5 USB hookups, one Firewire hookup, Ethernet, and video card. I've also seen other reports of it getting very hot, so... not sure what causes it.


----------



## cybershark5886

The video card, atleast in the older AGP systems, was handled entirely by the NB. Is it different with the SB in the P5N-E (or PCI-X boards in general)? If the SB handles the video card then I would say that definately would be what ups the temperature, but if so it didn't used to be that way with the AGP boards. Although I suppose they even made PCI vid cards back then (though I've never seen one, or heard of them commonly being used once AGP was available). Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Awesome

I'm really not sure.

"Back then"???? Dude, what are you? 13? LOL... you seriously don't remember PCI graphics cards? I've had to use one on several occasions, and I believe one of my sister's PCs still has one. They aren't THAT old...


----------



## pheoxs

Well first, no the south bridge does not run hot, mines cool to the touch even overclocked as much as possible, its the north bridge that gets hot, south bridge should barely be warm at all...


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


I'm really not sure.

"Back then"???? Dude, what are you? 13? LOL... you seriously don't remember PCI graphics cards? I've had to use one on several occasions, and I believe one of my sister's PCs still has one. They aren't THAT old...


No I don't remember PCI vid cards, because AGP was the standard when I was growing up. And actually I was about 10 when AGP first came out (in 1997). AGP, although cards are still being made for it, is becoming quickly antiquated. And as wikipedia says, "_Between 2004 and 2007, AGP was replaced by PCI Express_." Thus "back then". PCI Express is the new standard, and not many AGP boards are made anymore to my knowledge. Just FYI.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Well first, no the south bridge does not run hot, mines cool to the touch even overclocked as much as possible, its the north bridge that gets hot, south bridge should barely be warm at all...


That's what I thought. But Awesome says otherwise. She says her SB runs hot. I dunno. I'll leave it to someone else to decide since I don't know much about the SB.


----------



## Awesome

My SB burned my finger.

LOL I was 7 and I still remember PCI graphics cards. In computer terms, yes, they are ancient, but in real life? That wasn't all that long ago.

EDIT: She?? That's my girlfriend, hot-pants.








Touch your SB while your computer is running and find out for yourself. Mine runs hot, there's been posts where other people's run hot as well. I recommend a heatsink, simply because they are cheap and it can't hurt.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


My SB burned my finger.

LOL I was 7 and I still remember PCI graphics cards. In computer terms, yes, they are ancient, but in real life? That wasn't all that long ago.

EDIT: She?? That's my girlfriend, hot-pants.








Touch your SB while your computer is running and find out for yourself. Mine runs hot, there's been posts where other people's run hot as well. I recommend a heatsink, simply because they are cheap and it can't hurt.


I've touched my SB numerous times, I can touch it right now, my rigs not even in my case, its room temperature, are you sure your not just confusing the NB and SB ... the SB is to the right of the PCI-E slots, not between the PCI-E and the CPU.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


I would like to note that northbridge heatsinks are not compatible with the southbridge on this motherboard. The SB holes are closer together than the NB holes are.


Oh and also, thats in-correct, there are some that work fine on both the SB and NB, mainly heatsinks come with multiple mounting setups, my HR-05-SLI works perfectly fine on the NB, and SB on this board.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


I've touched my SB numerous times, I can touch it right now, my rigs not even in my case, its room temperature, are you sure your not just confusing the NB and SB ... the SB is to the right of the PCI-E slots, not between the PCI-E and the CPU.

Oh and also, thats in-correct, there are some that work fine on both the SB and NB, mainly heatsinks come with multiple mounting setups, my HR-05-SLI works perfectly fine on the NB, and SB on this board.



Uh... yeah... I'm mixing them up.









The HS that have fixed brackets don't work.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Good fan placement means that you have more fans sucking air out the back of the case than you do blowing air in the front.

You want to create a heat vacuum in your case. As air gets sucked out, it pulls in more air through the fans pushing air into the case.

(Offtopic)

Bu, bu, BUT, if you have MORE air in the case there's more air to remove heat. Take it to the extreme: if it was a TRUE vacuum, the heat would have NOWHERE to go. So what's really important is a lot of air flow. Wether or not your pressure is slightly lower or higher than exterior pressure isn't going to make a big difference.

Beat me if I am wrong -- I am often.


----------



## suck-eye

I was stuck at 3.00 @ 1.35V and had to use 1.45V to get to 3.20 but did the pencil mod for Vdroop yesterday (my Vdroop was pretty bad - around .06V).
After the Vdroop I can get to 3.20 @ 1.40V (Vdroop around .01V)


----------



## Asce

Vdroop on this board is pretty bad and even worse with a Quad


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
(Offtopic)

Bu, bu, BUT, if you have MORE air in the case there's more air to remove heat. Take it to the extreme: if it was a TRUE vacuum, the heat would have NOWHERE to go. So what's really important is a lot of air flow. Wether or not your pressure is slightly lower or higher than exterior pressure isn't going to make a big difference.

Beat me if I am wrong -- I am often.

*beats you*

Just kidding.

I was always told that you should have a bit more exhaust than you have intake. If you have air coming in but nothing to pull it out of the case you'll just get this messy, whirling mass of warm air that won't let your components cool properly. Sure, it will cool better than if you had no fans at all but for truly effective cooling you need something to remove that air from the case. Cool air should be brought in, it should flow over your components and then be pulled out of the case.


----------



## slaney30

This is an awesome thread TriBeCa! This is exactly what I needed to help improve my overclock by almost 500mhz. Rep+. I'm now able to boot my e2160 at 3.2ghz where previously I couldnt get the thing stable at 3.0ghz.

FSB: 358 (1432)
Mem: 716mhz 1:1 divider
timings 4-4-4-12-2T

I was able to run orthos for 1 hour at 3.22ghz before my machine froze up. I had the vcore at 1.45, mem at 2.179v, Northbridge 1.56v. I reseated my northbridge with as5, and also put a basic heat sink on the southbridge with as5. My mobo temps are showing in PC probe at 23C. Idle CPU temps are 24C, load seems to have settled at 56C.So with this said any ideas why Orthos is failing?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


My SB burned my finger.

Touch your SB while your computer is running and find out for yourself. Mine runs hot, there's been posts where other people's run hot as well. I recommend a heatsink, simply because they are cheap and it can't hurt.


I touched my sb hs and it's pretty hot as well. About as hot as the nb hs.

I thought the mobo reading was the average of the nb and sb?


----------



## Asce

There has been discusion of the motherboard temp probe is next to the PCI-e slot.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
(Offtopic)

Bu, bu, BUT, if you have MORE air in the case there's more air to remove heat. Take it to the extreme: if it was a TRUE vacuum, the heat would have NOWHERE to go. So what's really important is a lot of air flow. Wether or not your pressure is slightly lower or higher than exterior pressure isn't going to make a big difference.

Beat me if I am wrong -- I am often.

LOL, well if you're allowed to use extremes than so am I... bear with me, here.

Imagine there's a clear glass box, with two holes in it. One hole is large, the other is small. Someone takes a air nozzle and starts shooting air into the box from the large hole. This air is coloured red. Because the air cannot escape very fast, the box will quickly fill up with this red air and it will take a while before it can escape.
Now imagine someone takes and shoots air in the little hole. Not as much air is allowed in the box, and it has a larger opening to escape from. The box still fills with air, but escapes much quicker.










EDIT: This pencil mod for Vdroop sounds interesting... I'd love to try it. I am running a much higher voltage than I need because it droops so much, and thus I'm running hotter. Anyone got a link?


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


LOL, well if you're allowed to use extremes than so am I... bear with me, here.


Good point.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


EDIT: This pencil mod for Vdroop sounds interesting... I'd love to try it. I am running a much higher voltage than I need because it droops so much, and thus I'm running hotter. Anyone got a link?


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...icial%26sa%3DN


----------



## sp7nky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


A hole causes the computer not to POST because it's unstable. Your computer won't even run with such settings. If your mobo doesn't POST it reverts to the last known good configuration and ignores your last setting, so if it doesn't POST and you don't bother to go into the BIOS and set it to a new speed "outside the hole" and just boot up you're running stability tests on a previous configuration, not your new one (which won't work because it's in the hole). Holes tend to appear in 25-50mhz increments (from what I've noticed), so up it a little more and see if you can get out of it.


Does it matter that my E4300 is not supported by the Mobo? http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI
i just found that out recently after i bought it.


----------



## dpawl31

Guess who's back...

<----


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sp7nky* 
Does it matter that my E4300 is not supported by the Mobo? http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI
i just found that out recently after i bought it.

You're right that it's not on the list, but that may be because it's newer(???), or possibly (worst case scenario) "not recomended". However I simply typed in "E4300 p5n-e" on Google and it got plenty of results (mostly forums) of people who are using this CPU/Mobo combination (and overclocking on it no less). You might want to look at those forums as they might interest you.

For starters here's the order of the day: "Beginners guide to over clocking of E4300 + ASUS P5NE SLI @ Stock Cooling". It's not a very big thread but atleast it gives you an idea that it works with that configuration. It's a start. Enjoy.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Guess who's back...

<----

































OMG! WELCOME BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(lol)


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


Good point.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...icial%26sa%3DN



Ah, thank you.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Guess who's back...

<----
































About time!







Its not been the same wothout you


----------



## Unreal187

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
look up intel's product page for your chip. easiest way is to go to the page on newegg, click 'manufacturer info' on the bottom left part of the page, then click on 'manufacturer product page' or whatever it's called. that should show you the stock voltage for your chip, which is where you want to start your vcore.

Yeah i understood that bit but like...atm ive got *1.18750v* in the bios and offset *+100mv*, does that add up to my stock voltage of *1.2875v*?


----------



## ru7hl355

anyone had any success reaching 3ghz on a b3 quad on this board? i am thinking of trying another board but if it can be done i will give it another chance.


----------



## degziebob

Quote:


Originally Posted by *degziebob* 
I'm giving up with my Q6600 on this board. It can get into Windows at 3GHZ but is unstable. I've just RMA'd it & will hopefully get something better, maybe an EVGA. With patience & a year off work I may get a FSB of 280 .. woohoho...

The kicker for me was when trying to find my ideal FSB, & it wouldn't boot, even with the 'features' it has to recover from this, I had to have the case open, move the jumper, wait & move it back....my fingers nails canne take it captain as they put it in a stupid bloody place!!! The NB not being seated properly with thermal paste ... the Bios is crappy....

There are thing I do like with this board & for non Quaddies it sounds great .. but for me it was just too frustrating.... RIP P5N-E Sli... & good riddience.

















A wee update ... I've had my Q6600 running in my GA P35C-DS3R at 3.2Ghz on air & it's perfect at (8x400). Temps were ok. I added my water cooling in yesterday & I can get into Windows at 3.6Ghz, it does crash after about 10mins or so. 3.4Ghz runs a 3DMark06, but freezes in COD4. With some tweaking I'm sure I'll get it working at 3.4Ghz stable. My idle temps at 3.2Ghz are around 42c, at load under 60c.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Guess who's back...

<----
































It's about time. I went and upgraded to the P5N-E SLI and you leave...so I downgraded to a socket A.









Just kidding.


----------



## Asce

Just when he comes back, im thinking of going to either a P35 or X38


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Unreal187*


Yeah i understood that bit but like...atm ive got *1.18750v* in the bios and offset *+100mv*, does that add up to my stock voltage of *1.2875v*?


Yes, it does. The offset (as Tribeca finally got across to me) is merely a secondary/auxilary way to supply your chip with voltage. If you have the offset on you add that to your Vcore to get the total voltage. The offset uses different mosfets than the ones for the Vcore setting, thus puts less on the Vcore mosfets. Its almost a trick (assuming that's not the offset's purpose entirely), a very convenient one though.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Guess who's back...

<----

































Where the hell did you go man.....








You missed the upgrade from D820 to Q6600. BTW....fried my 820 and got a new one from intel RMA.....care to race CPUs again?


----------



## markt

Hello , i'm a new member.I also have the P5n-E SLI. It works great, I used the ai overclock option only cause i couldn't find all the values i thought i had to set.My computer is set at 10%OC.any suggestions what order and values to set to get higher OC?


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *markt*


Hello , i'm a new member.I also have the P5n-E SLI. It works great, I used the ai overclock option only cause i couldn't find all the values i thought i had to set.My computer is set at 10%OC.any suggestions what order and values to set to get higher OC?


Hello Markt,

First things first, this will help you out tremendously: P5N-E Overclocking Guide. That will tell you how to tweak voltages, speeds, and other settings. Of course we'll help you out here too, but that's just to get you started.

I also used the "ai overclock" the first time I got my PC just to get a "feel" of what it could and couldn't do, then after that I turned it off and made my own modifications. First make some simple obsevations. Turn off the "ai overclock" and record or remember the stock speed settings, the current temps, and voltages then turn the "ai overclock" on again and notice the differences. You can do all this in BIOS. After you tweak it, you can go to the CPU settings section and see the current multiplier (might be fixed) and the speed in MHz. Also there is a hardware monitor in the BIOS which can monitor your mobo & CPU temps. It's useful to look at those.

The P5N-E should have come with some software which will be useful when overclocking called PC Probe II. It's not top of the line (and you'll need to get other applications eventually like SpeedFan [Highly recommended], CPU-Z [Invaluable], and for stress testing an OC: Orthos) but it does the trick. You can monitor differences in temp, Vcore voltage, fan speed, etc. For me personally, since my core is locked (I can't increase the multiplier) I OC by increasing the FSB speed (which can go astoundingly high - so not really an issue for the FSB itself). Try upping it in small 25-50Mhz increments at a time till you get comfortable. Once you get it OC'd by 100 or more MHz you might want to then consider tweaking the voltage a little (you can take very small steps in the BIOS) by turning auto off and increasing it by one or two increments up. You do this by first observing for a time the Vcore voltage values displayed in PC Probe, and then you know what it usually is set at, then just incrementally increase it till you think its stable.

There's a lot more to get into but this should do for now.









Welcome onboard,

~Josh


----------



## ru7hl355

weird problem, managed to get my q6600 to 3ghz, but now i cant clock my memory upto 930mhz like i could before when i was @ 2.66mhz.

is this normal for this board?

vcore = 1.26878
memory=2.178
nb=1.56
100+mv


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ru7hl355* 
weird problem, managed to get my q6600 to 3ghz, but now i cant clock my memory upto 930mhz like i could before when i was @ 2.66mhz.

is this normal for this board?

vcore = 1.26878
memory=2.178
nb=1.56
100+mv

Your ratio is off. Try adjusting ram speed. You may have to go slower.


----------



## ru7hl355

i can run at 800mhz no problem, what should i be running at? i cant go faster as that causes more problems even though its 1066 memory


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cybershark5886* 
...and now the light bulb flickers on.







Thanks.

P.S. I've seen you mention mosfet cooling before. Does that merely affect (preserve) the mosfets or does it aid other components on the board (or chip) as well? (I saw that picture of where the mosfets were located on the board BTW - cool pic).

while I had kind of a freakish experience that I still don't have the most satisfying explanation for. I added zalman vram sinks to my mosfets and swapped a fan out, and I saw an 8-10C drop in temps on my cores, MB, and GPU. best explanation I heard from anyone is that they were heating up massively (which i could confirm by touching them when the computer was on), which was increasing the resistance across various circuits in the board (general physical propery--more heat = more resistance). this increased resistance was then requiring more current to be pushed through the circuit in order maintain a decent voltage (because I = V/R), which was in turn heating everything up.

but I wouldn't expect that kind of result...and I was pushing >1.5vcore at the time.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *slaney30* 
This is an awesome thread TriBeCa! This is exactly what I needed to help improve my overclock by almost 500mhz. Rep+. I'm now able to boot my e2160 at 3.2ghz where previously I couldnt get the thing stable at 3.0ghz.

FSB: 358 (1432)
Mem: 716mhz 1:1 divider
timings 4-4-4-12-2T

I was able to run orthos for 1 hour at 3.22ghz before my machine froze up. I had the vcore at 1.45, mem at 2.179v, Northbridge 1.56v. I reseated my northbridge with as5, and also put a basic heat sink on the southbridge with as5. My mobo temps are showing in PC probe at 23C. Idle CPU temps are 24C, load seems to have settled at 56C.So with this said any ideas why Orthos is failing?

could be the board's FSB hole, or just insufficient vcore. I don't know how much those 2160's usually need to run.

i'd first try seeing if you're stable at those settings with a 6x multi. If so, then you know it's something to do with the actual clock speed, and not something about the FSB you're at specifically. if you're fine at 6x with those settings, you probably need more vcore. You're getting close to your temperature cap for that chip...I'm surprised the TT isn't getting you better load temps. You sure it's seated properly? Can you improve case airflow somewhere? At any rate, you can see if you're stable with more vcore, and think about cooling options if you get it working.

Finally, you can try a suicide run at 1.75vNB. I wouldn't recommend pushing that constantly, but if you're stable with your current settings and 1.75 on the NB, then it's probably something to do with the specific FSB you're at and you may have to find another.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Unreal187* 
Yeah i understood that bit but like...atm ive got *1.18750v* in the bios and offset *+100mv*, does that add up to my stock voltage of *1.2875v*?

yup!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ru7hl355* 
anyone had any success reaching 3ghz on a b3 quad on this board? i am thinking of trying another board but if it can be done i will give it another chance.

That i don't know, but Ravin has gotten that with a G0. I'd recommend going to the main P5N-E thread (stickied at the top of this board) and asking there.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Guess who's back...

<----
































nice! been a long time man







what's your PC been up to?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *degziebob* 
A wee update ... I've had my Q6600 running in my GA P35C-DS3R at 3.2Ghz on air & it's perfect at (8x400). Temps were ok. I added my water cooling in yesterday & I can get into Windows at 3.6Ghz, it does crash after about 10mins or so. 3.4Ghz runs a 3DMark06, but freezes in COD4. With some tweaking I'm sure I'll get it working at 3.4Ghz stable. My idle temps at 3.2Ghz are around 42c, at load under 60c.









nice work man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ru7hl355* 
weird problem, managed to get my q6600 to 3ghz, but now i cant clock my memory upto 930mhz like i could before when i was @ 2.66mhz.

is this normal for this board?

vcore = 1.26878
memory=2.178
nb=1.56
100+mv

is that stock voltage for your RAM? you might try lowering it.... the most likely explanation for why you can't OC your RAM as far now is that your board is having trouble delivering enough power to all the components, and something isn't getting enough. have you tried 3 GHz at 1.39vNB? If you can reduce that that might help as well...on my chip I can get 375FSB on 1.39.


----------



## dpawl31

haha Hey guys.

Well, it got real busy for me a few months before the wedding, then, of course, the wedding.
Then the honeymoon, rough times at work, best friend moving in for a while, and plans to open my own sub shop started with my dad and uncle, so that itself has taken quite a bit of time.
Oh and bought a new car for the wife and refinancing my atv, doing bill consolidation... yada yada. lol.

Anyway, I can't believe what I started here, lol, 481 pages on a single motherboard. Amazing!

Glad to see a lot of new faces. At some point I will go through the hundred some odd pages I have been gone and update the main page etc. Glad to see the old faces too!


----------



## ru7hl355

yeh i have tried it @ 1.39.

ballistix pc8500 require 2.2v.

what vcore should i need roughly for 3ghz on a quad on this board? could be im not giving it enough juice.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


yeh i have tried it @ 1.39.

ballistix pc8500 require 2.2v.

what vcore should i need roughly for 3ghz on a quad on this board? could be im not giving it enough juice.


What are you temps at your current vcore? Have room to warm up? bump it up 1 or 2 notches. Run, if it boots, monitor temps. If its too hot... you've got too much Vcore.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ru7hl355*


yeh i have tried it @ 1.39.

ballistix pc8500 require 2.2v.

what vcore should i need roughly for 3ghz on a quad on this board? could be im not giving it enough juice.


I found that a lower Vcore was more beneficial for OCing my quad. Ultimately I ended up @ 1.22V (VID=1.2875) for the lowest stable @ 3.0GHz, where I started with it at 1.35V trying to clock higher. Keep in mind I got the G0 stepping, which typically has lower stock voltages than the B3 revision.


----------



## ru7hl355

temps under load is 62-62-55-55 on a b3. vcore wont go lower than 1.26875(VID 1.325), any lower it failes to boot. i do have an CM690 and TR120uE Coming for xmas, but thats not gonna help me clock my memory up much.

think i will to a swap for a GB DS3R as these seem great for what i want to do and the P35 are better chipsets for quads anyways, what do you guys think?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


haha Hey guys.

Well, it got real busy for me a few months before the wedding, then, of course, the wedding.
Then the honeymoon, rough times at work, best friend moving in for a while, and plans to open my own sub shop started with my dad and uncle, so that itself has taken quite a bit of time.
Oh and bought a new car for the wife and refinancing my atv, doing bill consolidation... yada yada. lol.

Anyway, I can't believe what I started here, lol, 481 pages on a single motherboard. Amazing!

Glad to see a lot of new faces. At some point I will go through the hundred some odd pages I have been gone and update the main page etc. Glad to see the old faces too!











Welcome back man!
Good to see everything is still good on your side.









Congrats on the wedding.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ru7hl355* 
yeh i have tried it @ 1.39.

ballistix pc8500 require 2.2v.

what vcore should i need roughly for 3ghz on a quad on this board? could be im not giving it enough juice.

bit it may not need 2.2 if you're underclocking it. also...if you're underclocking you might also try tightening the timings slightly....


----------



## ru7hl355

ah ok so your saying i might be giving it too much juice!

i can run it on 3-3-3-8-2t if i run it on 800mhz.

have ordered a p35 DS3R anyways as these seem like better boards for the quads.

but i will try the memory vdimm out.

thanks


----------



## SSJVegeta

I need help with hitting atleast 3GHz with my E4300. I can hit 2.8GHz with stock vcore of 1.325v but only with CPU FSB at 350MHz (1400MHz QDR) and multi at 8x.

With 3GHz on 8x or 9x multi and even with 1.45v vcore my PC reboots or freezes when running Orthos.

I've never fiddled with the +100mV or northbridge voltages. Perhaps now is the time for me to test them and see if I can hit 3GHz with 333MHz FSB and 9x CPU multi.

Thanks for the guide!


----------



## TriBeCa

yeah, nobody's pretending this board is a good choice for quads









what's stock timing on those chips?

set your tRC to 12 with 3-3-3-8 and i bet you can get performance roughly as good as you could with your RAM at stock.


----------



## FR4GM4ST3R

Hey everyone, i am suspecting that i have an issue with my P5NE-SLi, Vista and sound. I have gone absolutely insane trying to find the cause for my problems, and this is what ive come up with so far:

When i have no sound device installed in Vista i get the same kind of FPS while maxing games as i do in XP. Basically close to no noticable performance decrease, however...

The moment i install a sound device, onboard or my X-Fi, i get occasional but incredibly frustrating stuttering in games almost as if its straining to load something, and the sound gets terribly garbled on occasion for a split second.

This has happened in every imaginable configuration: 3 different installs of Vista, every imaginable graphics and sound driver, onboard and X-Fi...

Recently my memory banks have begun to fail as well.

While the board might be a great OC friendly one i am seriously disappointed at the quality, or maybe i just got myself a monday build. Either way if anyone has experienced any of the above issues, how did you go about fixing them?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FR4GM4ST3R* 
Hey everyone, i am suspecting that i have an issue with my P5NE-SLi, Vista and sound. I have gone absolutely insane trying to find the cause for my problems, and this is what ive come up with so far:

When i have no sound device installed in Vista i get the same kind of FPS while maxing games as i do in XP. Basically close to no noticable performance decrease, however...

The moment i install a sound device, onboard or my X-Fi, i get occasional but incredibly frustrating stuttering in games almost as if its straining to load something, and the sound gets terribly garbled on occasion for a split second.

This has happened in every imaginable configuration: 3 different installs of Vista, every imaginable graphics and sound driver, onboard and X-Fi...

Recently my memory banks have begun to fail as well.

While the board might be a great OC friendly one i am seriously disappointed at the quality, or maybe i just got myself a monday build. Either way if anyone has experienced any of the above issues, how did you go about fixing them?

does this happen at stock, or just when you're OC'd? (very nice OC btw)

on another note...

hey dpawl - if you think of anything you think I should add to the OCing guide I wrote for the board (because we were getting a lot of newcomers who didn't want to read through a 400 page thread to find the info they needed...go figure







) I'd love to hear about it.


----------



## FR4GM4ST3R

Stock, OC'd same thing in every scenario. Its really driving me absolutely crazy now because i am tired of seeing FRAPS reporting 45+ fps and getting stuttering and garbled sound (both out of onboard and dedicated sound). And thanks, i really should update my sig rig since im running 3,6 atm to keep heat down. I was pushing some serious voltage to get 3,8


----------



## SSJVegeta

Ok, just tried 3GHz with 1.425v vcore via +100mV setting.

Strange thing is my internet wouldn't work when I OC'd to 3GHz. I never had this problem when I OC'd to 3GHz in the past so I'm back to 2.8GHz.

BTW, what is the stock northbridge voltage for this board?


----------



## slaney30

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
I need help with hitting atleast 3GHz with my E4300. I can hit 2.8GHz with stock vcore of 1.325v but only with CPU FSB at 350MHz (1400MHz QDR) and multi at 8x.

With 3GHz on 8x or 9x multi and even with 1.45v vcore my PC reboots or freezes when running Orthos.

I've never fiddled with the +100mV or northbridge voltages. Perhaps now is the time for me to test them and see if I can hit 3GHz with 333MHz FSB and 9x CPU multi.

Thanks for the guide!

I would push the Northbridge voltage to 1.39v. This could be holding you back from a steady overclock. I would definitely reseat the Northbridge Heatsink with AS5 or Shin Etsu thermal compound. I saw a big drop in motherboard temps after i did that to my board.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Ok, just tried 3GHz with 1.425v vcore via +100mV setting.

Strange thing is my internet wouldn't work when I OC'd to 3GHz. I never had this problem when I OC'd to 3GHz in the past so I'm back to 2.8GHz.

BTW, what is the stock northbridge voltage for this board?


Not sure I think 1.2v or its set to auto so it adjusts I believe. I would run the northbridge a 1.39v for now until you reseat the northbridge heatsink with artic silver 5 compound. If you do this, you could probably run it at 1.56v, but I dont really recommend it.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Ok, just tried 3GHz with 1.425v vcore via +100mV setting.

Strange thing is my internet wouldn't work when I OC'd to 3GHz. I never had this problem when I OC'd to 3GHz in the past so I'm back to 2.8GHz.

BTW, what is the stock northbridge voltage for this board?

I would back down the CPU Vcore voltage. I would set it at 1.35v manually in the bios, then enable the +100mV settings. Your VCORE is running over 1.5 which intel specs say is over its rating. You don't really want to fry your chip.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slaney30*


I would back down the CPU Vcore voltage. I would set it at 1.35v manually in the bios, then enable the +100mV settings. Your VCORE is running over 1.5 which intel specs say is over its rating. You don't really want to fry your chip.


Thats what I did which is why I said I reached 1.425v via +100mV. The vcore setting itself is 1.325v.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


Thats what I did which is why I said I reached 1.425v via +100mV. The vcore setting itself is 1.325v.


My bad. Did you try upping the northbridge volts?


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slaney30*


My bad. Did you try upping the northbridge volts?


It was on Auto so I set it to 1.39v and still had the same result, no internet and PC also reboot after 10mins in Orthos with CPU test.


----------



## TriBeCa

well...sad to say I don't really know how to help you. only thing I can think of is to make sure you've tried the X-Fi card in both PCI slots. beyond that...contact microsoft and/or asus?


----------



## TriBeCa

you should be asking about this in the main P5N-E thread, stickied at the top of this board. you'll get more and faster responses there....


----------



## cybershark5886

I've been trying to tweak my memory for this board recently and I'm seeing only 1ns of speed gain on it. I'm not using an official memory test program, but rather the benchmark on PC Wizard 2008. Is there a decent memory test application I can use to do more thorough benchmarks? I know about memtest86, but don't you have to burn that onto a CD, and boot to it? Is there a more convenient program to test my memory specs?

I got my memory timings all the way down to 4-4-4-8, and (atleast in nanoseconds) no sustantiantial difference. It went from 51ns to 50ns. What else should I be looking at?


----------



## TriBeCa

the most commonly used benchmark for RAM performance is SuperPi. People generally use the 1M calculation. The question is how fast your computer can calculate a million digits of pi







I can get down almost under 17 seconds on a stable OC, and well under 17s on an unstable one (though I haven't done any suicide OCing to see how low I can get it)


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tribeca*

while I had kind of a freakish experience that I still don't have the most satisfying explanation for. I added zalman vram sinks to my mosfets and swapped a fan out, and I saw an 8-10C drop in temps on my cores, MB, and GPU. best explanation I heard from anyone is that they were heating up massively (which i could confirm by touching them when the computer was on), which was increasing the resistance across various circuits in the board (general physical propery--more heat = more resistance). this increased resistance was then requiring more current to be pushed through the circuit in order maintain a decent voltage (because I = V/R), which was in turn heating everything up.


Nice. That's a pretty sustantial drop. Out of curiosity how do you mount a mosfet cooler/sink, since I don't think there are holes in the board designed for such a thing?

*Edit:* LOL! I just noticed this in your sig for the first time:
_"Incorrect using it may cause your system broken. For power End-User use only!"
-Gigabyte MB manual (8I865GME-775-RH-Rev2.0) _
I double checked that to see it for myself. That's hilarious. That's what you get for outsourcing your IT jobs.


----------



## SSJVegeta

I need help with hitting atleast 3GHz with my E4300. I can hit 2.8GHz with stock vcore of 1.325v but only with CPU FSB at 350MHz (1400MHz QDR) and multi at 8x.

With 3GHz on 8x or 9x multi and even with 1.45v vcore my PC reboots or freezes when running Orthos.

I've never fiddled with the +100mV or northbridge voltages. Perhaps now is the time for me to test them and see if I can hit 3GHz with 333MHz FSB and 9x CPU multi.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


the most commonly used benchmark for RAM performance is SuperPi. People generally use the 1M calculation. The question is how fast your computer can calculate a million digits of pi







I can get down almost under 17 seconds on a stable OC, and well under 17s on an unstable one (though I haven't done any suicide OCing to see how low I can get it)










Thanks a million. I'll check it out then post my results.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Also would I be safe with a NB voltage of 1.56v with the stock heatsink?

I also get a massive vdroop when I stress test the CPU. Vcore goes from 1.425v to 1.36v :/


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


Also would I be safe with a NB voltage of 1.56v with the stock heatsink?

I also get a massive vdroop when I stress test the CPU. Vcore goes from 1.425v to 1.36v :/


Reseat the NB with AS5 and you should be alright, if the MB temp start creeping up, just position a fan to blow across the stock heatsink and you'll be ight.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I also get a massive vdroop when I stress test the CPU. Vcore goes from 1.425v to 1.36v :/



Mine drops from 1.36 to 1.31. Yours just seems to drop .15 less than mine. I'm not quite sure what's causing that though. You have a better power supply than I do, so I don't think it doesn't have enough power. Then again I don't know the normal power consumption of your specific processor.


----------



## Asce

My vdroop was pretty bad before i did the pencil mod. I used to have the vcore set to 1.45 just to get 3.2Ghz but now its set to 1.4 and i think i may be able to get it even lower.


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


My vdroop was pretty bad before i did the pencil mod. I used to have the vcore set to 1.45 just to get 3.2Ghz but now its set to 1.4 and i think i may be able to get it even lower.


I have heard about this pencil mod and even seen where the mosfet is located, but before I try it I'd like to know more about what it actually does. Has there been a particularly good explanation/post that you've seen that explains it in any level of detail? I'd also like to know why the resistance wasn't lower straight from the factory (there has to be some sort of safety/stability concern). I assume the graphite provides less resistance than the primary (normal) path, and that it bridges the connection, but then again I'm not sure how the mosfets work. Any info would help.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


haha Hey guys.

Well, it got real busy for me a few months before the wedding, then, of course, the wedding.


Congrats man!

Married life is the way to go...aside from taxes.









My wife and I are working on our 3rd month.


----------



## Gauvenator

Earlier I posted that I was able to reach 400fsb on stock volts, but that has changed....

occasionally the computer freezed up (especially during gaming) but I upped the vcore to 1.35625 (just one notch) and all is well again...

EDIT: voltage is actually 1.35625


----------



## Asce

Ive manged to get a 375fsb at undervolted settings before, but its great knowing you can acheive that sort of OC before needing to change the voltage.


----------



## Gauvenator

Yah gotta love this mobo+c2d..

I thought it was my gfx card at first lol. Hope that upping the vcore everynow and then doesn't become a trend for me


----------



## va_xo

i have E4500 and now it is 2.82 and i want to test, where i can find Stability test


----------



## Asce

Download Orthos and run it for about 12 hours just to make sure its stable


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I need help with hitting atleast 3GHz with my E4300. I can hit 2.8GHz with stock vcore of 1.325v but only with CPU FSB at 350MHz (1400MHz QDR) and multi at 8x.

With 3GHz on 8x or 9x multi and even with 1.45v vcore my PC reboots or freezes when running Orthos.

I've never fiddled with the +100mV or northbridge voltages. Perhaps now is the time for me to test them and see if I can hit 3GHz with 333MHz FSB and 9x CPU multi.


I'm guessing you need to up your NB voltage. Definately reseat the NB with a good TIM. If you do that and have decent case airflow over the heatsink you should be ok at 1.56v. Keep an eye on the MB temp sensor though.

And your vdroop is totally normal for this board.


----------



## TriBeCa

They should come with thermal tape. Basically a double-sided tape that stay adhesive at high temps and has a decent heat transfer itself. So you just stick the sinks on and as long as you don't apply too much force to them they'll stay on. This means you have to position them correctly the first time, so make sure you figure out exactly what configuration you want them in before you remove the backing on the tape.

And yeah, I love that quote







I laughed so hard when I saw it


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Download Orthos and run it for about 12 hours just to make sure its stable


I keep hearing this...

There is NO REASON to run Orthos for that long unless you run [email protected] or some similar program 24/7.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Ok, I noticed this just now but the whole of my Thermaltake Big Typhoon heatsink and fan seems to be vibrating/resonating a fair bit, you can just about see it vibrate if you look hard enough but if you touch it, it definitely vibrates.. Could this be the reason why my CPU won't overclock so well?

I get temps of 61c in Core Temp and under Everest in Orthos CPU test with 2.8GHz.

When I installed the Thermaltake I did apply Arctic Silver in a straight line down the CPU as shown in a guide.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Ok, I noticed this just now but the whole of my Thermaltake Big Typhoon heatsink and fan seems to be vibrating/resonating a fair bit, you can just about see it vibrate if you look hard enough but if you touch it, it definitely vibrates.. Could this be the reason why my CPU won't overclock so well?

I get temps of 61c in Core Temp and under Everest in Orthos CPU test with 2.8GHz.

When I installed the Thermaltake I did apply Arctic Silver in a straight line down the CPU as shown in a guide.

Is it just vibrating or is it rocking like it's not fastened tightly?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
I keep hearing this...

There is NO REASON to run Orthos for that long unless you run [email protected] or some similar program 24/7.

12 hours does seem long, but I still think 6-8 hours is important if you want a rock solid system. I've hit a rounding error 5 to 6 hours into an orthos run, and while that's mostly a problem for me because I occasionally do data analysis that takes that long or long, I'm sure I'm not alone in that my gaming sessions sometimes go that long....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Ok, I noticed this just now but the whole of my Thermaltake Big Typhoon heatsink and fan seems to be vibrating/resonating a fair bit, you can just about see it vibrate if you look hard enough but if you touch it, it definitely vibrates.. Could this be the reason why my CPU won't overclock so well?

I get temps of 61c in Core Temp and under Everest in Orthos CPU test with 2.8GHz.

When I installed the Thermaltake I did apply Arctic Silver in a straight line down the CPU as shown in a guide.

Sounds like a bad mount. How much vcore are you pushing for 2.8GHz? 61C definately seems high.... I don't know exactly how that cooler mounts, but are you sure the backplate is on right, and all the screws or whatever are as tight as they can be? I'd really recommend a remount...don't be afraid to apply a LOT of downward pressure when you're mounting a cooler.


----------



## Bonez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


I keep hearing this...

There is NO REASON to run Orthos for that long unless you run [email protected] or some similar program 24/7.


Yeah, there is. Beyond 12 hours, any error that occurs will be in the realm of freak-damned-annoying-occurance. Listen to Mr TRIB. 8hours should be fine....unless your just too damned lazy like me. In which case half to an hour on Orthos and a few extended gaming sessions with error free results give me enough real world proof of stability. Doing it properly would entail running Orthos for 8+ hours....preferably 12.

I'm missing the P5N E SLI!


----------



## cybershark5886

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


They should come with thermal tape. Basically a double-sided tape that stay adhesive at high temps and has a decent heat transfer itself. So you just stick the sinks on and as long as you don't apply too much force to them they'll stay on. This means you have to position them correctly the first time, so make sure you figure out exactly what configuration you want them in before you remove the backing on the tape.

And yeah, I love that quote







I laughed so hard when I saw it










Thanks.

Oh, and I now have that quote officially hanging on the wall in our (my University's) IT staff office to lighten the atmosphere.


----------



## ri0ku

Hello guys, 1st of all apologies for my newbie entry into this thread.

I have been reading allot of this thread lately and im liking what i see. Because I have just bought a pc (which will arrive shortly) which has the p5n-e sli 650i Mobo.

The specs will be 
quad core q6600,
4gb of ddr2 800mhz ram (i dont think it will be branded tho -_-)
500gb hdd
8600 gts (gonna get a 8800)

The reason i bought this pre built was because i got it at a very reasonable price and i ended up not having the time to build myself.

My question is will i get any sort of overclock out of this? and if so whats the easiest way of going about it? anyone else here that has a q6600 have you did? if so how was it and how much of an OC did you achieve?

Thanks guys! and im glad i joined the comunity!


----------



## Gauvenator

oh noes!!

had to bump the vcore up once again...it finally froze again, hopefully it wont again...I really want to keep 2.8ghz...

it didn't freeze nearly as quickly as before tho, so hopefully this should be the last time


----------



## cybershark5886

Will the SLI allow you to run with two different Vid cards, or do they have to be identical? What I have in mind is a GeForce 8500 and a GeForce 8800.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Is it just vibrating or is it rocking like it's not fastened tightly?


Its not rocking visibly but if you look at the screws that fasten down the fan at the top of the cooler they do blur a bit due to the vibration.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Sounds like a bad mount. How much vcore are you pushing for 2.8GHz? 61C definately seems high.... I don't know exactly how that cooler mounts, but are you sure the backplate is on right, and all the screws or whatever are as tight as they can be? I'd really recommend a remount...don't be afraid to apply a LOT of downward pressure when you're mounting a cooler.


I'm using the default vcore of 1.325v for 2.8GHz but even then sometimes my PC reboots when I'm using an application that is very CPU intensive even though my overclock was stable in Orthos.

I'll definitely try a remount sometime.


----------



## Magoo Wu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
If you still have warranty you should rma it. It sounds like it just crapped out when you put in the second gfx card.

It only started to screw up after you put in the 2nd grapics card....RMA!


Yep, it crapped out for sure.

I ordered another P5N-e and installed that. Worked without a hitch.
I'll just RMA the old board and throw it in another comp once I get it returned.

Atleast ripping apart the computer gave me an excuse to upgrade the PSU, get a new case, and add more heat sinks.

Its a pain getting a heatsink on that South Bridge, but I managed it - barely.

Any ideas on what to upgrade next?

Current System:
Pentium D 2.8 Dual Core (Zalman)
2 GB Patriot PC800 (Aftermarket Coolers)
2x 7950 GT KO superclocked (Stock Coolers)
X-Fi Xtreme Gamer
750watt Roswell PSU
NB (Coolermaster heatsink w/ fan attached to top of stock heat sink)
SB (thermalright HR-05 sli)
150 7200RPM HD
Thermaltake Armor Series Case


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cybershark5886*


Will the SLI allow you to run with two different Vid cards, or do they have to be identical? What I have in mind is a GeForce 8500 and a GeForce 8800.


That wont work.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magoo Wu*


Any ideas on what to upgrade next?

Current System: 
Pentium D 2.8 Dual Core (Zalman)
2x 7950 GT KO superclocked (Stock Coolers)


Time for a C2D and G92 based video card.


----------



## BlacKReapeR

First of all , HI all

then straight to the question : had any1 tried to overclock with 0801 beta bios ? -- i havent yet updated my bios to 801 im still w8ing for a final stable release

i would also like to know if any1 used HR-05/HR-05IFX on NB and ULTRA 120 extreme and if they fit together

finally check this http://www.altgamer.org/?p=1202&page=3 100% fits on SB but id like a NB + ULTRA 120 extreme


----------



## butteredtoast

Okay, so basically, my computer wont post, it loads up to first part of bios, then just stays there, doesnt even get to the point where i can enter bios.. Right now im running a Q6600 alongside this mobo and a 7950gt video card... if anyone knows a solution to this problem that would be great. I'm completely stuck and i've tried everything i know to do.

Note: this started when i was playing around with overclocking in bios, though i got back to bios once and set it all back to stock, yet that didn't fix it and its still stuck at this screen.


----------



## ru7hl355

does that to me first thing in the morning, try pressing the reset button and unhooking any USB devices.

failing that did you reset cmos and take the battery out the mobo for a few minutes while holding the power button down?


----------



## MadDogX

Hey Butteredtoast,

I got that too several times just now while I was trying to get a better OC. Somehow the board doesn't like certain FSBs at all - if you're lucky it will just give you a "POST failed" message, so you can get back into the BIOS and change it, but sometimes you get that screen. When that happens I found no other way but to reset the BIOS (which is damned annoying). I gave up further overclocking after having to do that three times in a row.

Since we both have the same CPU, here are my OC values for you to try:

FSB @ 1200 (really 300), 9x multiplyer - giving me 2,7Ghz.
RAM at stock 800Mhz giving me a 3:4 ratio.

No VCore change needed.

I was really hoping to get to 400x*8* = 3,2Ghz for a 1:1 ratio but that gave me the same problem you're getting. If anyone knows how to avoid getting that screen I would appreciate it too.

*EDIT: ^^ Woops, I meant 400x8*


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MadDogX* 
Hey Butteredtoast,

I got that too several times just now while I was trying to get a better OC. Somehow the board doesn't like certain FSBs at all - if you're lucky it will just give you a "POST failed" message, so you can get back into the BIOS and change it, but sometimes you get that screen. When that happens I found no other way but to reset the BIOS (which is damned annoying). I gave up further overclocking after having to do that three times in a row.

Since we both have the same CPU, here are my OC values for you to try:

FSB @ 1200 (really 300), 9x multiplyer - giving me 2,7Ghz.
RAM at stock 800Mhz giving me a 3:4 ratio.

No VCore change needed.

I was really hoping to get to 400x9 = 3,2Ghz for a 1:1 ratio but that gave me the same problem you're getting. If anyone knows how to avoid getting that screen I would appreciate it too.

Yeah I got that too, ussually around the 405-425 FSB region. Just pop the CMOS battery out and shut the psu off for a second is all it takes to fix mine and keep going.

Also maddogx, 400x9 = 3.6 lol, either wrong multi or bad math.

Mines running 400x9 = 3.2ghz, ram at 800mhz, vcore at 1.37V, but 1.32V after vdroop under load (going to pencil mod it soon i swear), NB at 1.3 V.


----------



## Magoo Wu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Time for a C2D and G92 based video card.



Ok, so I know it will depend on the CPU I get. But is the price spent on a new C2D going to be worth the performance boost? What kind of performance boost am I looking at, 10-15%?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magoo Wu*


Ok, so I know it will depend on the CPU I get. But is the price spent on a new C2D going to be worth the performance boost? What kind of performance boost am I looking at, 10-15%?


Well it depends, are you going to overclock the C2D ... if you overclock it to ~3ghz, which is fairly easy for any C2D, you will see a significant boost in basically everything.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Also maddogx, 400x9 = 3.6 lol, either wrong multi or bad math.

Mines running 400x9 = 3.2ghz, ram at 800mhz, vcore at 1.37V, but 1.32V after vdroop under load (going to pencil mod it soon i swear), NB at 1.3 V.


400*9=3600; 400*8=3200. Maddog's math is correct.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Magoo Wu*


Ok, so I know it will depend on the CPU I get. But is the price spent on a new C2D going to be worth the performance boost? What kind of performance boost am I looking at, 10-15%?


Clock for clock the C2D delivers 2x the processing power of the pentium predecessor....i.e. a 2.8GHz C2D chip will deliver twice the performance of a pendtium D920 or D820.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


400*9=3600; 400*8=3200. Maddog's math is correct.


hm? no i was just bugging him in his post he says 400*9 = 3,2ghz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadDogX*


I was really hoping to get to *400x9 = 3,2Ghz* for a 1:1 ratio but that gave me the same problem you're getting.


----------



## kskoba

hey guys, 2 quick questions....

Just purchased the p5n-e because of all the amazing review about it for OCing and such.

Only afterwards did i start reading all the problems with OCing a q6600 on it. I haven't purchased the processor yet, but was still planning on buying a q6600. With the future games taking advantage of quad cores, is it still worthwhile to buy the q6600? Or should I only stick with a c2d since they are better for OCing. (Only doing air cooling here).

Secondly, I already have a BFG 8800gts 640mb OC2 card, and was looking at getting a second one for SLI. Would I be able to SLI a BFG 8800gts 320mb card with the 640mb card? Just looking to save some cash and I figured the extra mem in the 2nd video card wont make as much of a difference as that in the first.

Thanks!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


hm? no i was just bugging him in his post he says 400*9 = 3,2ghz


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kskoba*


hey guys, 2 quick questions....

Just purchased the p5n-e because of all the amazing review about it for OCing and such.

Only afterwards did i start reading all the problems with OCing a q6600 on it. I haven't purchased the processor yet, but was still planning on buying a q6600. With the future games taking advantage of quad cores, is it still worthwhile to buy the q6600? Or should I only stick with a c2d since they are better for OCing. (Only doing air cooling here).

Secondly, I already have a BFG 8800gts 640mb OC2 card, and was looking at getting a second one for SLI. Would I be able to SLI a BFG 8800gts 320mb card with the 640mb card? Just looking to save some cash and I figured the extra mem in the 2nd video card wont make as much of a difference as that in the first.

Thanks!


If you sli a 640 and a 320 I think the 640 only uses 320 out of 640. So basically you waste 320 megs of vram.


----------



## suck-eye

Currently at 3.30 @ 1.41875V. 
12 hr orthos stable with a load temp of 61.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


If you sli a 640 and a 320 I think the 640 only uses 320 out of 640. So basically you waste 320 megs of vram.


He's correct, you'll end up with basically two 320's SLI'd, you might as well spend the little extra and get another 640mb version


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kskoba*


hey guys, 2 quick questions....

Just purchased the p5n-e because of all the amazing review about it for OCing and such.

Only afterwards did i start reading all the problems with OCing a q6600 on it. I haven't purchased the processor yet, but was still planning on buying a q6600. With the future games taking advantage of quad cores, is it still worthwhile to buy the q6600? Or should I only stick with a c2d since they are better for OCing. (Only doing air cooling here).

Secondly, I already have a BFG 8800gts 640mb OC2 card, and was looking at getting a second one for SLI. Would I be able to SLI a BFG 8800gts 320mb card with the 640mb card? Just looking to save some cash and I figured the extra mem in the 2nd video card wont make as much of a difference as that in the first.

Thanks!


Go C2D... quad cores won't be used much for games for at least another two years.


----------



## RAR1309

can some one please tell me what i need to change in my bios or what needs to be turned on so that i can change my cpu fan speed. i want to put it higher but using speed fan the max is 100%. i know my stock fan isnt at full speed (1700rpm) what can it go up and how do i change it???? all help appreciated.

thanks, rich


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


can some one please tell me what i need to change in my bios or what needs to be turned on so that i can change my cpu fan speed. i want to put it higher but using speed fan the max is 100%. i know my stock fan isnt at full speed (1700rpm) what can it go up and how do i change it???? all help appreciated.

thanks, rich


Turn off Asus Q-Fan. Under the Power tab I believe.


----------



## RAR1309

q fan is off as is chassis fan control and i still dont have the option, its all there its just grey??


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


q fan is off as is chassis fan control and i still dont have the option, its all there its just grey??


Sorry, I'll have to look when I get home or someone else might chime in first.


----------



## Christiaan

I can't seem to find the CPU compatibility list on the Asus site.

I'm thinking of getting a E2140 to replace my PD 805. Planning to OC it to at least 2.8GHz.

What BIOS version do I need to run the E2140? I'm running 0602 currently.


----------



## Awesome

RAR: 100% is the max most things will go.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
I can't seem to find the CPU compatibility list on the Asus site.

I'm thinking of getting a E2140 to replace my PD 805. Planning to OC it to at least 2.8GHz.

What BIOS version do I need to run the E2140? I'm running 0602 currently.

Don't bother, your PD is much faster.


----------



## MadDogX

Hi guys,

I've decided to try reseating my NB heatsink (as TriBeCa recommends in his excellent OCing guide), but I'm stuck on how to remove the heatsink. Am I right in assuming I will have to remove my board from the case before being able to do this?

Another thing: What can you guys recommend as a Southbridge cooler? I fear I'll be needing a rather flat one, since my GF7950GX2 is such a big motherfrakker.

Sorry if my questions seem noobish, I'm new to the whole overclocking business. My last Mobo was an ASRock. Enough said...


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MadDogX* 
Am I right in assuming I will have to remove my board from the case before being able to do this?

yes.. remove the mobo and you can squeeze the pins holding the NB and push them through.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


Don't bother, your PD is much faster.










Got proof that it is? The E21*0 CPU's are conroes but with less cache and slower FSB


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
RAR: 100% is the max most things will go.









Don't bother, your PD is much faster.









Umm, no your wrong ... and e2xxx will outperform a PD by far when overclocked.


----------



## RAR1309

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
RAR: 100% is the max most things will go.









Don't bother, your PD is much faster.









thats what it says in speed fan, because the bios is set at 1700 so speed fan assumes this is 100% ..............also where are we???? on an overclocking website....you guys including myself, constantly push components past 100% of what theyre designed to do


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Sounds like a bad mount. How much vcore are you pushing for 2.8GHz? 61C definately seems high.... I don't know exactly how that cooler mounts, but are you sure the backplate is on right, and all the screws or whatever are as tight as they can be? I'd really recommend a remount...don't be afraid to apply a LOT of downward pressure when you're mounting a cooler.


I remounted and get the same temps. The base of the cooler looks really bad. Blurry and dull and not very smooth but I don't want the hassle of lapping it. I'll probably try the stock HSF next.

Damn Thermaltake for not applying a machine finish to the copper base


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


can some one please tell me what i need to change in my bios or what needs to be turned on so that i can change my cpu fan speed. i want to put it higher but using speed fan the max is 100%. i know my stock fan isnt at full speed (1700rpm) what can it go up and how do i change it???? all help appreciated.

thanks, rich


The intel fan is only rated for 1800rpm.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


thats what it says in speed fan, because the bios is set at 1700 so speed fan assumes this is 100% ..............also where are we???? on an overclocking website....you guys including myself, constantly push components past 100% of what theyre designed to do


The only way to increase the fan speed is to increase the voltage applied to the fan. I think it's a 1-12V fan, you can try 18-24V but may burn out the motor.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Umm, no your wrong ... and e2xxx will outperform a PD by far when overclocked.


And his PD is overclocked.

Hah!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
And his PD is overclocked.

Hah!









Yes I know that, but a 3ghz will walk all over a PD even at 3.5ghz, this has been shown many times, C2D outperform Pentiums by a considerable margin.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Yes I know that, but a 3ghz will walk all over a PD even at 3.5ghz, this has been shown many times, C2D outperform Pentiums by a considerable margin.

Very true, but this is one of the very low-end C2D's, and the PD's will outperform them. I've got a buddy whose 3.2 Ghz PD came close to my C2D at stock speeds.


----------



## Christiaan

lol, you guys.

I didn't ask which is better.









I just want to know what BIOS I need to run a E2140.









*edit*
I found it. I need 0608 for the newer revision of the E2140.

Think I'll update to 0801.


----------



## Samurazue

Hi

I need some help and maybe a guide how to OC.

Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 2.66GHz

Zalman CNPS-7500 CU LED

Asus P5N-E SLI nForce650I BIOS 0703

Kingston HyperX DDRII 2GB PC800 CL4

Thermaltake Eureka Aluminum Bigtower

PSU: LC-Power Silent Giant Green 550W 140mm

I want to OC my CPU - need some help. I know you have to change it to unlinked but what should the bus speed be and how about the multiplier etc. - the system must of course be in a stable condition.







thanks in advance


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Very true, but this is one of the very low-end C2D's, and the PD's will outperform them. I've got a buddy whose 3.2 Ghz PD came close to my C2D at stock speeds.

Core 2 Duo is an architecture, the only different between a e6600 @ 3 ghz and a [email protected] 3 ghz is the difference in cache, and it barely affects many applications even, maybe 5~15%. And I highly doubt a 3.2ghz PD came close to a e6600 at stock speeds...


----------



## Awesome

It did... we were using the Sandra benchmarks and he was getting surprisingly close when I was at stock speeds.

Love your avatar.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


It did... we were using the Sandra benchmarks and he was getting surprisingly close when I was at stock speeds.

Love your avatar.


The Pentium D is not faster. I just upgraded my Pentium D to an E2160 and my E2160 runs circles around it.















http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html

A stock E2140 easily outperforms a 3.6ghz Pentium D. Now add 1000 mhz to the stock speed and it completely owns the Pentium D. So rest assured and e21XX will dominate a Pentium D.


----------



## MadDogX

Hi again. I'd like to ask you guys for some advice on cooling the mosfets and southbridge.

For the mosfets I've been thinking of getting a set of Zalman ZM-RHS1 heatsinks:










And for the southbridge, I believe I may be able to squeeze the Zalman ZM-NBF47 just south of my 7950GX2:










The NBF47 is a northbridge heatsink, but I've read that it will do the trick for the southbridge aswell.

Reckless as I am, I've already gone and ordered them online - if there are any problems I can always send them back. Still I'd like to know what you guys think


----------



## SSJVegeta

Ok I found out the reason why I couldn't overclock my E4300 to 3GHz or higher. Its the northbride heatsink, it gets so hot. I placed a 80mm fan over it and the PC didn't reboot or crash anymore when OC'd to 3GHz with 1.325v & +100mV = 1.425v, PC reboots with less than that.

Can someone recommend a nice and efficient replacement northbridge heatsink, with fan or fanless?

Also, how much difference in temps would arctic silver 5 paste make if applied to the CPU HSF compared to the regular thermal paste?

Thanks!


----------



## brooking1169

Hey whats up man check this one out it works real well. My northbridge got so hot i burnt myself when i touched it i was able to get a higher overclock with this chipset cooler







http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16835109019


----------



## brooking1169

Hey whats up man check this one out it works real well. My northbridge got so hot i burnt myself when i touched it i was able to get a higher overclock with this chipset cooler









Sorry about the double post


----------



## SSJVegeta

Which one do I get?

http://www.scan.co.uk/search/search.asp?criteria=hr-05?

And why does it say (bare sink) next to each one?


----------



## Asce

Just get a HR-05 Sli with AS5. Even without a fan it doesnt get too hot.


----------



## jimmyj

I have a Q6600 B3 stepping. A hundred pages or so ago on this board, I started my first OC'ing experience. The P5N-E SLI and Q6600 do not play nice together, period IMO. I've had to at least try every OC'ing variable about 3 times over (you know how addiciting it is lol).

I'm giving up and since I want to keep my quad core, I would like to get rid of the P5N-E. Nothing is broke on it, it just sucks at OC'ing my Q6600, which I'm not happy having it sit there running at stock 2.4, which is the ONLY stable setting.

First and most important: What are my options, any chance I can RMA it through ASUS? If not, what then?

Second: What new board should I be looking at that is proven to OC the Q6600? I do not care about SLI at this point. The board must play nice with with my EVGA 8800 GTS, Corsair XMS 2 6400 ram, and my B3 Q6600. Would love your input! Money is a factor here seeing it's Christmas time and I shouldn't just be buying things for myself lol.

Cheers, JJ


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimmyj* 
First and most important: What are my options, any chance I can RMA it through ASUS? If not, what then?


You won't get anywhere with RMAing a perfectly good board. They'll send it right back to you.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jimmyj* 
Second: What new board should I be looking at that is proven to OC the Q6600? I do not care about SLI at this point. The board must play nice with with my EVGA 8800 GTS, Corsair XMS 2 6400 ram, and my B3 Q6600. Would love your input! Money is a factor here seeing it's Christmas time and I shouldn't just be buying things for myself lol.

Cheers, JJ

I like ASUS and Gigabyte boards. Something in P35 ideally, with all solid capacitors (Gigabyte calles it UltraDurable 2 or something). P5K-E Wi-Fi
GA-P35C-DS3R
GA-P35-DS3P Rev 2.0


----------



## jimmyj

Ravin,

You have been a great help on these boards. I have followed your guidance many times on here! I've heard good things about the ABIT IP35 PRO also...If you had to choose a number one board for the Q6600, what would it be? Anyone else want to have a say?


----------



## dpawl31

I started this thread nearly 500 pages ago now... 
And I still have my Pentium D 820 @ 3.7Ghz. haha.








I will be tearing down my rig for cleaning and removing the Linux HDD I have been on for months, since it is now failing (was a bad HDD to begin with)
Maybe it's finally time to upgrade some things eh?









BTW- my 7600GT/[email protected] still rockin'... NFS:Carbon on full flawless and gorgeous.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimmyj*


Ravin,

You have been a great help on these boards. I have followed your guidance many times on here! I've heard good things about the ABIT IP35 PRO also...If you had to choose a number one board for the Q6600, what would it be? Anyone else want to have a say?


Ok...money to burn? No budget #1 board I'd get for a Q6600 (DDR3)

#1 For DDR2.... Close #2 DDR2 runner-up

IMO the only Abit worth owning


----------



## Ajimboalogo

Back to this thread after a bit of an hiatus,

I replaced my B3 Q6600 with G0 and my temps are awesome, but my experience with OC'ing on this board is well, frustrating (I am being very very nice!!!) I can't get this FSB past 1200, 1 hz over and no POST no nothing. Have tried all BIOS flavahs and no go. I've been lurking a bit and I just can't get er done, lowering Vcore, upping NB (had to get active cooling for NB cuz she was getting very warm...okay hotter than [email protected]#$!!) I am just going to put it down to an incompatibility. Seen some promising numbers with people running Q6600 on Abits, maybe I'll make the switch. Am getting very very tired of clearing CMOS every time I make a timing change on my memory does not like switching between 1T and 2T without clearing for some reason. Any help would be great...cuz I have grown attached to this board (okay....I'm as stubborn as a mule and refuse to let this thing win!!!) Cheers!!!


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ajimboalogo*


Back to this thread after a bit of an hiatus,

I replaced my B3 Q6600 with G0 and my temps are awesome, but my experience with OC'ing on this board is well, frustrating (I am being very very nice!!!) I can't get this FSB past 1200, 1 hz over and no POST no nothing. Have tried all BIOS flavahs and no go. I've been lurking a bit and I just can't get er done, lowering Vcore, upping NB (had to get active cooling for NB cuz she was getting very warm...okay hotter than [email protected]#$!!) I am just going to put it down to an incompatibility. Seen some promising numbers with people running Q6600 on Abits, maybe I'll make the switch. Am getting very very tired of clearing CMOS every time I make a timing change on my memory does not like switching between 1T and 2T without clearing for some reason. Any help would be great...cuz I have grown attached to this board (okay....I'm as stubborn as a mule and refuse to let this thing win!!!) Cheers!!!



Looks like you're experiencing *exactly* the same problems as I am. I can't get my Q6600 past 1200FSB either, although I have had some moderate "success" - meaning at some FSBs it would actually say "unable to post", instead of just doing nothing and forcing me to reset the BIOS.









I got fed up last time I tried (after having to reset my BIOS three times in a row), but I still haven't given up. I'll let you know if I have any success.


----------



## cscheat

guys, best mobo for Q6600 Overclocking=

*Asus P5K deluxe, Gigabyte P35-DQ6, Abit ip35 pro*


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Just get a HR-05 Sli with AS5. Even without a fan it doesnt get too hot.


What is the difference between the Thermalright HR-05 SLI version and non-SLI version?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


What is the difference between the Thermalright HR-05 SLI version and non-SLI version?


Not much, just kinda the size, I have a HR-05-SLI, it fits fine with my BT, kinda awkward but it fits fine with a fan, although I took the fan off to do some testing / modding to the fan to waste my spare time.


----------



## gooddog

weird, I am having the exact same problem.
I am a total amateur.
I am fine at 1200, but anything beyond that doesn't work.
G0 stepping and great cooling.

Does changing the multiple make senseto do?
thanks


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooddog*


weird, I am having the exact same problem.
I am a total amateur.
I am fine at 1200, but anything beyond that doesn't work.
G0 stepping and great cooling.

Does changing the multiple make senseto do?
thanks


Don't think changing the multi will help overly, its just a fact that the p5n-e sli is crap for o/cing quads, theres only been a very small (very small) handful of people with minor success.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Will a Thermalright HR-05 SLI northbridge cooler fit my mobo? I have a Thermaltake Big Typhoon 120 so thats why I'm wondering if it will fit or will the Typhoon get in the way.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Will a Thermalright HR-05 SLI northbridge cooler fit my mobo? I have a Thermaltake Big Typhoon 120 so thats why I'm wondering if it will fit or will the Typhoon get in the way.

Yes it will, I have the BT as well as a HR-05 SLI. it fits with a tiny bit of clearance, I don't have a camera handy to show you but yeah it does.


----------



## Asce

It will do, i had mine with a Tuniq Tower installed aswell and there was planty of room


----------



## SSJVegeta

Cool, thanks!

BTW, is the motherboard temp sensor listed in EVEREST the temp for the northbridge?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Cool, thanks!

BTW, is the motherboard temp sensor listed in EVEREST the temp for the northbridge?

Nobodies really sure, some think its the average of the NB/SB, but that would mean theres two sensors somewhere and why wouldn't it give seperate readings, some for a while said it was a sensor near a PCI slot, as far as I know no one really figure out for certain where that readings coming from.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Could someone please enlighten me on how I am supposed to update the BIOS (from 401) when I have Vista 64 (which means I cannot use windows flash because I have a 64-BIT OS and AWDFLASH.EXE will not work because I get an error saying I need a 64-bit version) and every time I try to use the BIN file from within the BIOS I get the error message "Downgraded ROM not suitable for system error message (with all BIOS versions)?

I have been trying to combat the dreaded NVLDDMKM.SYS recovery message for weeks and I have already reinstalled Vista (after wiping old driver files and trying various NVIDIA driver versions) and upgraded to a Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850 and pulled RAM and about a thousand other things. Frankly, this is the last thing I know to do to solve the issue and I can't even do that. I have been fighting this setup every step of the way!

Any ideas?


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast*


Could someone please enlighten me on how I am supposed to update the BIOS (from 401) when I have Vista 64 (which means I cannot use windows flash because I have a 64-BIT OS and AWDFLASH.EXE will not work because I get an error saying I need a 64-bit version) and every time I try to use the BIN file from within the BIOS I get the error message "Downgraded ROM not suitable for system error message (with all BIOS versions)?

I have been trying to combat the dreaded NVLDDMKM.SYS recovery message for weeks and I have already reinstalled Vista (after wiping old driver files and trying various NVIDIA driver versions) and upgraded to a Cooler Master Real Power Pro 850 and pulled RAM and about a thousand other things. Frankly, this is the last thing I know to do to solve the issue and I can't even do that. I have been fighting this setup every step of the way!

Any ideas?



reset your settings to default before flashing. and always use exflash from bios.


----------



## tekseven

Thinking about getting this board. Sounds great and I love asus but I'm not sure.

I've heard on here that 2x2gb is better than 4x1gb -- so because I know that RAM is finnicky on this board (as the thread says):
I would like to go for either G.Skill 800 or if the $20 extra is worth it G.Skill 1000. But as I am not sure if either of these will work, my fall back is four gigs of Ballistix 800.

A. I'd like to know if I could get the G.Skills, and if so, if the extra $20 to get 1000 is worth it.
B. If you wanted to you could recommend a temporary CPU for this board. I think I'm getting an E2180 to OC for a while until quad core prices drop (1/20/08?). Just something that will make my system run. But if you think it's better for me to bite the bullet now and buy a Q66... well... I'm up for suggestions.

I know I ask a lot. Thanks in advance.


----------



## nolifeking

Hi, my name is Nick, and I haven't overclocked anything in my life. I purchased and built (also a first) a new gaming computer for myself about 8 months ago, and I think I'm ready to start looking into overclocking the processor. I have (obviously) an asus p5n-e, an intel E6300, G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400). I've read the first posts here and a few other things, but I'm not entirely sure what to do or expect. Right now I don't want to spend anything on aftermarket cooling - what kind of OC can I get with stock cooling?

I've also been looking around in the BIOS, found where I change my FSB, but I also noticed it has an AI overclock option that I can set to 5%-25% in 5% increments. Is this option any good, or should I just set it myself?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, from where to start and then onward =)


----------



## CyberT

Hi to everyone. I was looking for a solution to my problem and i found this forum. I hope you'll be able to help me. This is my problem: I clocked my cpu to 3.2 on default voltage, and memory to 4-4-4-12 on [email protected], and [email protected] And on that configuration everything runs great, but when i open a video in bsplayer or in nero showtime my computer freezes. Actually sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. But when i watch a video on wmp (i mostly use wmp) everything is normal. I ran orthos for about 5 hours and everything was fine. Then i switched back my cpu to default voltage leaving the other setting as they were while it was overclocked, and now when i watch a movie in bs or in nero everything is fine. What is the problem then??!!! I'm running vista business x64. I also tried different graphics drivers, and tried to unistall audio and video codecs but without any luck. So please if you know something help me!!
P.S. I'm sorry for my bad english.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CyberT* 
Hi to everyone. I was looking for a solution to my problem and i found this forum. I hope you'll be able to help me. This is my problem: I clocked my cpu to 3.2 on default voltage, and memory to 4-4-4-12 on [email protected], and [email protected] And on that configuration everything runs great, but when i open a video in bsplayer or in nero showtime my computer freezes. Actually sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. But when i watch a video on wmp (i mostly use wmp) everything is normal. I ran orthos for about 5 hours and everything was fine. Then i switched back my cpu to default voltage leaving the other setting as they were while it was overclocked, and now when i watch a movie in bs or in nero everything is fine. What is the problem then??!!! I'm running vista business x64. I also tried different graphics drivers, and tried to unistall audio and video codecs but without any luck. So please if you know something help me!!
P.S. I'm sorry for my bad english. 

Your problem is that you switched back to the default CPU voltages. Try running 1.34v.


----------



## CyberT

But processor is running on 1.35v!


----------



## Awesome

Then I don't know.

EDIT: it would appear that you have a bad FSB/Ram ratio... I'd get the ratio closer to 1:1 or 4:3.


----------



## CyberT

lol! I meant that i switched back my cpu to 2.66GHz. And by the way i think if processor works on 3.2GHz and memory works on 800MHz that that is 1:1 ratio, right?


----------



## Asce

Make sure you have unlinked your RAM. Have you tried with a higher vcore?


----------



## Awesome

What multiplier does your CPU use? x9?


----------



## slaney30

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CyberT* 
lol! I meant that i switched back my cpu to 2.66GHz. And by the way i think if processor works on 3.2GHz and memory works on 800MHz that that is 1:1 ratio, right?

Reseat your northbridge cooler with Artic Silver 5, and if possible put a cooler on your southbridge. I did this and had to up my northbridge voltage to 1.56v in order to achieve a stable overclock. Also make sure you ram is running on correct voltages. This board tends to not be accurate with all memory.

Try this, it solved my problems and made my overclock increase by 300mhz.


----------



## CyberT

Yes it is unliked. I'll try with higher vcore but i don't know why it works with everything else except when i watch a movie. I was downloading some stuff and PC has been up for almost 3 days (i also played some games) and everything was ok. Even orthos was stable.


----------



## CyberT

multiplier is x8. And i have a cooler on southbridge and a vent over the northbridge. Everest says that temp on a motherboard is 31C.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CyberT*


multiplier is x8. And i have a cooler on southbridge and a vent over the northbridge. Everest says that temp on a motherboard is 31C.



I know, I put artic silver 5 on my northbridge heatsink and my temps dropped down to 23C at 1.56v given to the northbridge. The problems I was having: I was orthos stable at 1.4v on the northbridge until I tried any 3d application then it would freeze up. I then reseated with artic silver 5, and upped my northbridge to 1.56v which resolved my issue, as well as my temps dropped substantially.

On another note are you using the +100mv option for CPU Vcore in the bios?


----------



## CyberT

Yes i'm using that. I'll then try to reseat my northbridge cooler.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CyberT*


Yes i'm using that. I'll then try to reseat my northbridge cooler.


YOu said your northbridge voltate was at 1.4v right now correct?

Also you understand that if you manually set your cpu vcore a 1.35v with the +100mv enabled it is actually running near 1.45v right?

Just making sure, trying to help you at as I had a hell of a time with my setup getting it right with all the different options.


----------



## CyberT

I didn't know that. So what should i do?


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CyberT*


I didn't know that. So what should i do?


Enable +100mv, Then set your cpu vcore to 1.30v...


----------



## mega_option101

Alright just put together a new rig using this mobo and it doesn't post???? i have a 8800 GT and once i turn the power button on everything powers up but no post.... any idea what could be causing this?


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


Alright just put together a new rig using this mobo and it doesn't post???? i have a 8800 GT and once i turn the power button on everything powers up but no post.... any idea what could be causing this?


We need to know what machine compononents you have. how big of power supply? what processor, ram?

The first thing that comes to mind is your power cord for you 8800gt not being plugged in. That would cause a problem.


----------



## mega_option101

I have a Q6600, 2GHZ OCZ ram, 550W psu, and yes my card is plugged in cuz when i unplug it simply makes a long beep


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


I have a Q6600, 2GHZ OCZ ram, 550W psu, and yes my card is plugged in cuz when i unplug it simply makes a long beep


Umm, it sounds to me like either your power supply is bad, or you have a bad board. Usually I've run into that if your board is DOA. Try a different pwer supply, check your connections. If it still does the same thing, probably a bad motherboard. YOu may also want to try a different graphics card.


----------



## mega_option101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slaney30*


Umm, it sounds to me like either your power supply is bad, or you have a bad board. Usually I've run into that if your board is DOA. Try a different pwer supply, check your connections. If it still does the same thing, probably a bad motherboard. YOu may also want to try a different graphics card.


Used a different PSU this time 700W and still nothing







looks like ill be sending back the mobo


----------



## SSJVegeta

Ok, I've ordered the Thermalright HR-05 SLI heatsink to replace the stock northbridge heatsink.

I really hope it solves the problem of me being unable to overclock higher than 2.8GHz.

I've also ordered a round floppy cable to replace the ribbon floppy cable to improve the airflow in the case.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


Used a different PSU this time 700W and still nothing







looks like ill be sending back the mobo


if you have everything plugged in as it should be, is there any beep sounds made?


----------



## mega_option101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


if you have everything plugged in as it should be, is there any beep sounds made?


No beep sound when i turn it on, long beep when i unplug the gfx card


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


No beep sound when i turn it on, long beep when i unplug the gfx card


Odd, and all the fans and everything powers up. You have both wires plug into the psu and the extra power wire pluged into the gfx card?


----------



## mega_option101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Odd, and all the fans and everything powers up. You have both wires plug into the psu and the extra power wire pluged into the gfx card?


Sure do







reseated the CPU and CPU cooler ill have a go at that


----------



## slaney30

Sounds to me like you have a bad motherboard, but you might wanna try different ram just to make sure that isnt the culprit. I know normally beep codes are associated with it, but its about the only other thing to try before sending your board back.


----------



## mega_option101

Reseated CPU and HAZZAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! works now thx for all your help +REP to all


----------



## slaney30

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


Reseated CPU and HAZZAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! works now thx for all your help +REP to all


Awesome good luck with your clocking!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


Reseated CPU and HAZZAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! works now thx for all your help +REP to all


Kewl now get overclocking!

P.S. might wanna update your sig!


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys, I got a E2140 in the post. Should get it this week or next week.
Can't wait to start overclocking it.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Hey guys, I got a E2140 in the post. Should get it this week or next week.
Can't wait to start overclocking it.









christiaan, if u are getting M0 version, definately can go 3.2Ghz with this board !!!


----------



## Incision

Hi Guys i`m new to overclocking and was wondering if anyone can help i would like to know the best settings for my system
P5N-E SLI
INTEL CORE 2 DUO E6700
NVIDIA GFORCE 8800 GTS
ARCTIC FREEZER 7 PRO
2 gig mem DDR2-SDRAM PC2-6400
i`m running bios 0801

any help would be appreciated


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cscheat*


christiaan, if u are getting M0 version, definately can go 3.2Ghz with this board !!!


That's the newer revision right? The other one is L2.

Will have to wait and see.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
That's the newer revision right? The other one is L2.

Will have to wait and see.









mine is L2 version !


----------



## pheoxs

So, I've decided I wanna get a bit more performance, [email protected] its taking 14 min / % @ 3.2ghz, My load temperatures is 42C max SMP folding, and my voltage droops down to 1.36V (bios @ 1.42V) so I'm thinking I'm gonna vmod the board over christmas break and try and get a bit more power out of it.

wondering though,
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPERRY-COMMERC-E...ayphotohosting
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/FLUKE-OPERATOR-S...QQcmdZViewItem

is this a decent multimeter? no where near me seems to have a decent multimeter thats not ridiculously overpriced.

Edit: Sometimes it drops down to 1.344V ... thats almost a 0.8V droop!!!


----------



## Nixer

Hi all.

WoW What a thread!









I have had a P5N-E-SLI for almost a year now, the only overclocking I've done is the 10% AI option in BIOS. I am going to be selling that board, which has an e6600 with the stock cooler, in system for my landlord

I've ordered another P5N-E-SLI and a C2D 6850. If anyone has any info or links I would appreciate it.

Thanks. Lots of good info in this monster thread.


----------



## cscheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nixer*


Hi all.

WoW What a thread!









I have had a P5N-E-SLI for almost a year now, the only overclocking I've done is the 10% AI option in BIOS. I am going to be selling that board, which has an e6600 with the stock cooler, in system for my landlord

I've ordered another P5N-E-SLI and a C2D 6850. If anyone has any info or links I would appreciate it.

Thanks. Lots of good info in this monster thread.


ya almost 500pgs


----------



## Christiaan

Just installed my E2140.

It's a M0 revision, stepping D.
This is the fastest FSB I've ever had. 800FSB on stock.







My PD overclocked got to a mere 700FSB.









Gonna start clocking now, will let you guys know how far I've gotten later. Cheerio.


----------



## DADBBAD

As a true NOOB on this forum I entered my first post in the wrong thread. Rather than retyp it all http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3100701


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DADBBAD*


As a true NOOB on this forum I entered my first post in the wrong thread. Rather than retyp it all http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3100701










Well I read your other post, first thing is, take that Vcore off of auto, try setting it to 1.30V, and turn the voltage offset to +100mV (I think thats what its called at least, its in the same menu as the Vcore), also try bumping the NB voltage up to the 1.5xV option, that should let you go a bit farther.

I'll tell you right now, this board sucks badly for overclocking quads so you might not get too much more out of it unfortunately, very few people have had success so far with a quad.


----------



## SSJVegeta

How do I take the stock northbridge heatsink off without breaking the mobo or the black clips?

Just trying to be careful.


----------



## DADBBAD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


How do I take the stock northbridge heatsink off without breaking the mobo or the black clips?

Just trying to be careful.


The black clips have wings on them that when pushed through cant be removed unless you go from the bottom of the board and push them together. Or grab them with some needle nose and pull till they break if you have replacements.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DADBBAD*


The black clips have wings on them that when pushed through cant be removed unless you go from the bottom of the board and push them together. Or grab them with some needle nose and pull till they break if you have replacements.


I just used needle nose pliers, pinched the bottom-side of it while gentle pulling upward and I removed them without destroying them.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Just replaced the stock heatsink with the Thermalright HR-05 SLI and my PC still reboots like before when I OC to 3GHz. In fact, its made no difference at all









I also reseated my Thermaltake Big Typhoon 120 and temps are the same too, hitting 60c at full load with 2.8GHz and 67c at full load with 3GHz.

With the case side panel off, temps drop 3-4c but PC still reboots with 3GHz.

Tried different northbridge volts upto 1.56v and upto 1.45v CPU vcore with +100mV set.

What a waste of time and money replacing the stock heatsink...


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Just replaced the stock heatsink with the Thermalright HR-05 SLI and my PC still reboots like before when I OC to 3GHz. In fact, its made no difference at all









I also reseated my Thermaltake Big Typhoon 120 and temps are the same too, hitting 60c at full load with 2.8GHz and 67c at full load with 3GHz.

With the case side panel off, temps drop 3-4c but PC still reboots with 3GHz.

Tried different northbridge volts upto 1.56v and upto 1.45v CPU vcore with +100mV set.

What a waste of time and money replacing the stock heatsink...









drop the LDT frequency to 4x, or maybe 3x ( i think its called LDT frequency, something like that) I had to lower mine to get 3ghz and 3.2ghz stable.


----------



## Euthanasiast

I wonder if someone could assist me in getting a stability issue resolved with this motherboard. I have been plagued with the dreaded NVLDDMKM.SYS error for weeks and I have done just about everything to combat it. I think I have it narrowed down to either RAM issues or mainboard settings. I was thinking I could get a general setup guide from those with similar setups to my own in an attempt to rid myself of this problem--which seems to be a stability issue.

The funny thing is that I have been running applications for months with the identical setup and then out of the blue I started receiving these error messages, and despite my attempts at EVERYTHING, I have still been unable to rid myslef of the problem. At this point it simply must be a problem with either my settings for the mainboard or the RAM.

The RAM that I am running is G.SKILL 6GB(3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ, The motherboard is obvious. I am running Vista Ultimate x64 and I have an 8800 GTX. I am currently overclocking my Core 2 Duo E6700 to 3.4ghz (yes I have tried setting back to stock to no avail).

What I am looking for from you guys is your stable setup for your mainboard and your RAM (especially if you have the same as I do) so I can compare and see where I may have something wrong. Currently the only way I can get Company of Heroes to run without bombing out is if I pull all of the RAM save for one stick as I have been seeing in research on the various forums that this is a temporary fix. I think it's entirely possible that I just have something setup wrong.

I'm not in front of the device at the moment, but I have the memory timings set manually and I will publish them the moment I get home.

Thank you in advance for your collective help in the matter.

Chris


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast* 
I wonder if someone could assist me in getting a stability issue resolved with this motherboard. I have been plagued with the dreaded NVLDDMKM.SYS error for weeks and I have done just about everything to combat it. I think I have it narrowed down to either RAM issues or mainboard settings. I was thinking I could get a general setup guide from those with similar setups to my own in an attempt to rid myself of this problem--which seems to be a stability issue.

The funny thing is that I have been running applications for months with the identical setup and then out of the blue I started receiving these error messages, and despite my attempts at EVERYTHING, I have still been unable to rid myslef of the problem. At this point it simply must be a problem with either my settings for the mainboard or the RAM.

The RAM that I am running is G.SKILL 6GB(3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ, The motherboard is obvious. I am running Vista Ultimate x64 and I have an 8800 GTX. I am currently overclocking my Core 2 Duo E6700 to 3.4ghz (yes I have tried setting back to stock to no avail).

What I am looking for from you guys is your stable setup for your mainboard and your RAM (especially if you have the same as I do) so I can compare and see where I may have something wrong. Currently the only way I can get Company of Heroes to run without bombing out is if I pull all of the RAM save for one stick as I have been seeing in research on the various forums that this is a temporary fix. I think it's entirely possible that I just have something setup wrong.

I'm not in front of the device at the moment, but I have the memory timings set manually and I will publish them the moment I get home.

Thank you in advance for your collective help in the matter.

Chris

First download memtest86, burn it to a cd and run it overnight to check if the ram is bad. then try perhaps only running two 2gb sticks, i've had some experiences with 3 sticks giving instability issues, perhaps just try two and see if you keep getting the error. not sure what else really it could be.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
First download memtest86, burn it to a cd and run it overnight to check if the ram is bad. then try perhaps only running two 2gb sticks, i've had some experiences with 3 sticks giving instability issues, perhaps just try two and see if you keep getting the error. not sure what else really it could be.

I plan on running memtest sometime in the next day or so. I already went to two sticks (which gave a performance boost in WEI because it meant I was running in dual channel mode, but the problem persisted. I am now running with one stick and so far (knock on wood) it has been running, though not with the same smack of a system with more RAM.


----------



## slaney30

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Just replaced the stock heatsink with the Thermalright HR-05 SLI and my PC still reboots like before when I OC to 3GHz. In fact, its made no difference at all









I also reseated my Thermaltake Big Typhoon 120 and temps are the same too, hitting 60c at full load with 2.8GHz and 67c at full load with 3GHz.

With the case side panel off, temps drop 3-4c but PC still reboots with 3GHz.

Tried different northbridge volts upto 1.56v and upto 1.45v CPU vcore with +100mV set.

What a waste of time and money replacing the stock heatsink...









Not necessarily, try dropping you cpu multiplyer at the same FSB and see what happens. Also definitely drop your LDT to like 2x. It would help to know what your temps are like under idle and load....


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast* 
I plan on running memtest sometime in the next day or so. I already went to two sticks (which gave a performance boost in WEI because it meant I was running in dual channel mode, but the problem persisted. I am now running with one stick and so far (knock on wood) it has been running, though not with the same smack of a system with more RAM.

If it works fine with just one stick, but not two, perhaps slightly raise the voltage for the RAM, make sure its manually set at the rated specs. Also try different combinations in sets of two, maybe just one of the sticks is bad and thats whats messing it up.


----------



## Euthanasiast

Good idea, I'll try that as well.


----------



## markpbennett

Hi,
I've been advised that i would be very lucky to take my cpu past 2.8g..can anyone explain why this is? i was looking to reach 3g...what would i need to do to reach this num?

Cheers









CPU: Q6600 Go @ 2.4g
MOBO: Asus P5N-E nForce 650i SLI Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
MEM: 2 X 1G OCZ Gold
CPU Cooler: Arctic cooling freezer7
HD: 2 x 160g seagates in raid0
GPU: 8800 GTX


----------



## Mounthooly

Hi,

I took my time in getting here, I stopped along the way to read some of the posts and believe I've come to the right place.

The Kentsfield Stacker is crying out to be OC'd but unfortunately I've never done this type of thing before. I'm very much a noob and unfamiliar with the language and well I'm here now and keen to let this rig of mine reach new heights any help would be much appreciated.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
drop the LDT frequency to 4x, or maybe 3x ( i think its called LDT frequency, something like that) I had to lower mine to get 3ghz and 3.2ghz stable.

What does this LDT Frequency do?

Will it make my computer slower in some way?

Also what voltage is your NB set at?


----------



## Gauvenator

anyone here with an HR-05 SLI, how much did it drop your temps?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *markpbennett* 
Hi,
I've been advised that i would be very lucky to take my cpu past 2.8g..can anyone explain why this is? i was looking to reach 3g...what would i need to do to reach this num?

Cheers









CPU: Q6600 Go @ 2.4g
MOBO: Asus P5N-E nForce 650i SLI Chipset LGA775 FSB1333 DDR2 Mainboard
MEM: 2 X 1G OCZ Gold
CPU Cooler: Arctic cooling freezer7
HD: 2 x 160g seagates in raid0
GPU: 8800 GTX

The reason is, the p5n-e just doesn't seem to like overclocking quads in general, 3ghz may be do-able but not much more.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
What does this LDT Frequency do?

Will it make my computer slower in some way?

Also what voltage is your NB set at?

LDT frequency is the communication between the NB and the SB, lowering it a notch or two shouldn't decrease performance any, and if it helps you overclock higher, then it is worth it.

My NB is set at the 1.5xxV option, but I never tried to bring it down any.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
anyone here with an HR-05 SLI, how much did it drop your temps?

According to PC probe it dropped my MB temperatures ~10C


----------



## tekseven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
I'll tell you right now, this board sucks badly for overclocking quads so you might not get too much more out of it unfortunately, very few people have had success so far with a quad.

Is there a better board you would recommend for quad? I've been looking around and that's the first time that I've heard that. (Not that I disbelieve you).


----------



## Asce

Any P35, X38 would be the boards to chose from. The 680i isnt a board i would consider anymore since its doesnt have full support for the 45nm CPU's.


----------



## Euthanasiast

So I ran Memtest 86 for a few hours today and got no errors, though when I went to boot up the computer afterwards it freezes almost immediately upon login or a minute afterwards. If there is sound occuring when it happens it gets caught in a loop and is frozen with no option but to hold down the power button until the system shuts down. I have no idea at this point if I have a hardware issue or not, and if I do, I have no idea which item to RMA first. This is INCREDIBLY FRUSTRATING considering that I was running fine with this exact same setup a mere two weeks ago.

Manual timings for RAM:

DDR2 800 / F2-6400
PQ Series
FSB SPEED 1066
DDR2 SPEED 800
VOLTAGE 1.92v
TCL 5
TRCD 5
TRP 5
TRAS 15
CMS 1T (is this the cmds clock setting?)
TRRD 3
TRC 15
TWR 6
TWTR 9
TREF 1
TRD 6
TRFC 51
ASY LAT 2

These were obtained from a tech on another forum. I think those same settings are listed here as well.

How could this exact setup run spectacularly well weeks ago, but then out of nowhere is the most unstable PC that I have ever encountered. Every attempt to get things going (and believe me I have tried EVERYTHING at this point) is countered with some completely unexpected result.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
LDT frequency is the communication between the NB and the SB, lowering it a notch or two shouldn't decrease performance any, and if it helps you overclock higher, then it is worth it.

My NB is set at the 1.5xxV option, but I never tried to bring it down any.

I tried LDT at 4x and my PC still reboot @ 3GHz under Orthos and when I tried LDT at 3x the PC wouldn't boot so I had to take the mobo battery out to reset the CMOS.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tekseven* 
Is there a better board you would recommend for quad? I've been looking around and that's the first time that I've heard that. (Not that I disbelieve you).

At the moment if your only running a single graphics card, go for a DFI Blood Iron, their fairly cheap boards but they've shown some impressive numbers.

If you need a SLI board, your best bet is a 680i A2 board instead of the 650i p5n-e

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
I tried LDT at 4x and my PC still reboot @ 3GHz under Orthos and when I tried LDT at 3x the PC wouldn't boot so I had to take the mobo battery out to reset the CMOS.

Thats really odd ... it might have something to do with since your chip is natively 800fsb you've encountered some kind of wall ...


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
LDT frequency is the communication between the NB and the SB, lowering it a notch or two shouldn't decrease performance any, and if it helps you overclock higher, then it is worth it.

My NB is set at the 1.5xxV option, but I never tried to bring it down any.

I tried LDT at 4x and my PC still reboot @ 3GHz under Orthos or I'd get errors in Orthos and when I tried LDT at 3x the PC wouldn't boot so I had to take the mobo battery out to reset the CMOS.

It's hopeless.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
I tried LDT at 4x and my PC still reboot @ 3GHz under Orthos or I'd get errors in Orthos and when I tried LDT at 3x the PC wouldn't boot so I had to take the mobo battery out to reset the CMOS.

It's hopeless.

I dunno what else it could be, only other thing that comes to mind was I remember some people pin modding the e4xxx serious to 1066FSB which let them overclock past a FSB wall, but I don't know if that works with this MB, and don't even remember how they did it.


----------



## tekseven

I think I'm going to stay with this board for right now, as it is I won't be able to afford quad core so I'll probably sell it when I do get quad core. Thanks for the tips though. Rep.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tekseven* 
After looking-- is it worth the extra money? All of the X38's are out of my range and the P35's as well.

Whats your price range and we can find a board for you, theres this one for 115$, theres a thread about it on OCN its got some great results from members so far.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136038


----------



## sherpa_man

Hi im new to this board and overclocking in just wondering what kinda speeds can you clock to with a core 2 quad 6600 on this board with stock cooler on the cpu but 4 good case fans


----------



## tekseven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Whats your price range and we can find a board for you, theres this one for 115$, theres a thread about it on OCN its got some great results from members so far.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813136038

I found the Blood Iron but the main problem with it is the single IDE channel. I have an PCI to IDE card, but for right now I won't have a quad core processor for at least two months it looks like, so I'll hold off on the Blood Iron and get that at the same time I buy my quad, so that I can make basically two rigs with some Ballistix for overclocking on my quad rig and my "stable" rig on the P5n-e.

Side note: 2x2 G.Skill 800 work alright on this board?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 

According to PC probe it dropped my MB temperatures ~10C

wow. that sounds pretty good. Do you think I should get one? Currently I run at about 44 degrees celcius idle, 49 while gaming. Prime95 only rises it to about 46.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
Hi im new to this board and overclocking in just wondering what kinda speeds can you clock to with a core 2 quad 6600 on this board with stock cooler on the cpu but 4 good case fans

Not very much, depending if its G0 or B3, p5n-e isn't the best for overclocking quads, especially on stock cooling.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tekseven* 
I found the Blood Iron but the main problem with it is the single IDE channel. I have an PCI to IDE card, but for right now I won't have a quad core processor for at least two months it looks like, so I'll hold off on the Blood Iron and get that at the same time I buy my quad, so that I can make basically two rigs with some Ballistix for overclocking on my quad rig and my "stable" rig on the P5n-e.

Side note: 2x2 G.Skill 800 work alright on this board?

What do you need more than one IDE channel for? each IDE channel can support two devices remember.

Yeah that G skill ram should work fine in this board

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
wow. that sounds pretty good. Do you think I should get one? Currently I run at about 44 degrees celcius idle, 49 while gaming. Prime95 only rises it to about 46.

It should help a bit, I have to try and rearrange mine, the way its positioned my HR-03 is right near the backside of my graphics card, so once I turn it so its on the side of the ram and add a fan it'll help a lot more. You could probably just reseat the stock NB cooler with as5 and add a fan and that should help quite a bit.

My NB loaded was 45C, idle 42C before, now I'm about 29C and 33C loaded but my ambients dropped a bit.


----------



## tekseven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
What do you need more than one IDE channel for? each IDE channel can support two devices remember.

Yeah that G skill ram should work fine in this board

I have three IDE hard drives and one burner, but I may forgo two of them and just get the Blood Iron. Not sure yet, we'll see.

Thanks for your help on this

[EDIT] Okay, new plan. I don't know how I didn't notice a plethora of nice P35-based motherboards square in the middle of my price range, so now I feel stupid. But I'm getting an Asus P5K-E (supposed to have nicer components than a vanilla P5K and it's only marginally more expensive)-- that will give me P35 and I don't _really_ need 2 IDE channels-- I'll just deal with it. I'm buying a SATA DVD burner anyways so it'll just out one (dying) hard drive. Win-win. Don't know why I didn't go for it earlier.


----------



## sherpa_man

is there a know problem with memory on these boards i have 4 x 1 gig sticks and every now and again the sytem hangs and i have to unplug the computer and restart any ideas ?


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
is there a know problem with memory on these boards i have 4 x 1 gig sticks and every now and again the sytem hangs and i have to unplug the computer and restart any ideas ?


I have 4x1GB too and have had no problems with that so far. Could one of your sticks be defective?


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MadDogX* 
I have 4x1GB too and have had no problems with that so far. Could one of your sticks be defective?

im gonna try runnin them one by one im hoping it will crash when put a certain stick in then just replace that 1

what bios version are you using ?


----------



## SSJVegeta

If I RMA my board is it preferable or necessary to re-install Windows or the nForce drivers or is it just a case of swapping a faulty motherboard with a new replacement?


----------



## tekseven

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
If I RMA my board is it preferable or necessary to re-install Windows or the nForce drivers or is it just a case of swapping a faulty motherboard with a new replacement?

You shouldn't have to if it's the same model.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tekseven* 
You shouldn't have to if it's the same model.

Yeah, its going to be the same model.


----------



## sherpa_man

If i have 800 mhz ram and its showing like this








does it mean its not running at full speed ?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
If i have 800 mhz ram and its showing like this








does it mean its not running at full speed ?

Nope thats fine, rams DDR, so you double the speed shown in CPU-z, its running at 800mhz


----------



## SSJVegeta

Could my power supply be holding me back from a stable 3GHz OC?

My PSU is an Antec EarthWatts 430W


----------



## Euthanasiast

Is there any way someone could show me how to update my BIOS from 0401? When I try to do it with my USB or disk using EX-Flash I get the error "Downgraded ROM file not suitable for BIOS" and when I attempt to do it via the Asus Flash Windows Updater I get the error, "Fail to reserve DMI data in EEPROM. Please press [FLASH] button to try again or [EXIT] to abort."

How can I possibly get around this? I have a sneaking suspicion that the problems that I am having have something to do with the old BIOS interacting with my RAM configuration, but I can't update the BIOS to see if this fixes the problem.


----------



## Diddles

What an awesome thread! I was considering between this and the Gigabyte GA-N650SLI-DS4L nForce 650i SLi but seeing the amount of support and information on this thread I'd say I'm pretty damn set!

Must be a good mobo...


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Diddles*


Must be a good mobo...


Its the feature set and price point that makes it so appealing.

Its also a great migratory board if you still have IDE stuff you want to move to your new PC build like I did since this board has 2 IDE connectors allowing 4 IDE devices.

Its not without its problems but then what mobo is?

I got mine for around Â£60 when eBuyer had the Google Checkout deal going on earlier this year (May) alongside free delivery.


----------



## sherpa_man

turns out one of me sticks of ram is faulty took the 4 th stick out and runs fine then put it back in and then crashes. Just got a new stick just need to wait for it to turn up then away i go


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast*


Is there any way someone could show me how to update my BIOS from 0401? When I try to do it with my USB or disk using EX-Flash I get the error "Downgraded ROM file not suitable for BIOS" and when I attempt to do it via the Asus Flash Windows Updater I get the error, "Fail to reserve DMI data in EEPROM. Please press [FLASH] button to try again or [EXIT] to abort."

How can I possibly get around this? I have a sneaking suspicion that the problems that I am having have something to do with the old BIOS interacting with my RAM configuration, but I can't update the BIOS to see if this fixes the problem.


Reset your BIOS settings to Default before doing the upgrade.. that should help.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Euthanasiast*


CMS 1T (is this the cmds clock setting?)


Set this to 2T. 1T is guaranteed errors for myself.


----------



## Acharash

hey guys,

Running as below, I throw heaps of memtest86+ errors. Running at anything other than default is likewise, whereas running at default is fine. Why would that happen?


----------



## rradam

Howdy... Ive searched through about 100 pages of this thread with no avail...

Here is my issue:

Specs of the system are as follows - it is not overclocked since I can't even get it stable at stock speeds.

asus p5n-e sli - bios 0703
intel q6600 2.4ghz quad core
4gb (2x2gb) mushkin em2 ddr2-800
evga 8800gts - 640mb

With all auto settings, board detects 5-5-5-31 2T. The board will never boot into windows (Vista Ult. 64 bit) and the install itself would often crash. I had some luck changing the timings to 5-5-5-18 and bumped up the ram voltage to 1.9. This would work sometimes, but vista would often lock up a few minutes in. The system will boot/work better with just one stick, but it still crashes often. I have also tried tweaking the nb voltage as well - this may have helped some, but I still experienced crashes. Usually, the system will blue screen when booting into windows, or will just lock up and eventually blue screen while working in windows.

My question is... is there anyone who has got this particular ram/mobo combo to work, or what is the best option to use for a 4gb (2x2gb) setup?

From what I can tell, pretty much no one has had luck with a 2x2 4gb setup.


----------



## Gauvenator

Have you run memtest86? It'll make sure your sticks aren't faulty.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


Hi im new to this board and overclocking in just wondering what kinda speeds can you clock to with a core 2 quad 6600 on this board with stock cooler on the cpu but 4 good case fans


Just to let you know. Some people have been very unsuccessful getting a Q6600 to overclock on this board. I couldn't boot stable with a speed of higher than 2.7 GHz, which is really disappointing.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Have you run memtest86? It'll make sure your sticks aren't faulty.


just be aware that memtest errors dont always mean faulty ram. Setting CMd rate to 1T will cause memtest errors on my system - my sticks are just fine though.


----------



## rradam

I tried the other 2 slots and that was no dice. I tried tweaking the voltages on all the vcore, nb, and dram. I can get it stable as long as its pretty much idle - running 3 instances hci memtest and there are no errors, but the system will lock up after a period. When trying to install programs from DVD or CD, the system will often lock up - even with just 2 gigs.

I set the DLT freq. to x3, and clocked the ram down to 667. So it appears that 4 gigs in 2x2gb dual channel mode just doesnt work with this board. :\\ I have not seen anyone pull it off.


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rradam* 
I tried the other 2 slots and that was no dice. I tried tweaking the voltages on all the vcore, nb, and dram. I can get it stable as long as its pretty much idle - running 3 instances hci memtest and there are no errors, but the system will lock up after a period. When trying to install programs from DVD or CD, the system will often lock up - even with just 2 gigs.

I set the DLT freq. to x3, and clocked the ram down to 667. So it appears that 4 gigs in 2x2gb dual channel mode just doesnt work with this board. : I have not seen anyone pull it off.


thats what was happening with mine i had a faulty ram stick


----------



## RATNIK

Hey guys I have a quick question. I ordered 4x1GB A-Data Extreme RAM and was wondering if there should be any problems, or if anyone had any problems with this brand. In the manual A-Data is listed as a supported manufacturer with a few models with one resembling a model I just ordered almost exactly. Looking to push the e6300 to >or= 2.5;done it before but with different RAM so fr now RAM is my only concern. 
PS: Anyone foresee a problem with 4GB on XP 32bit? Except it not showing full 4GB. Thanks ahead,


----------



## MadDogX

Except for the usual problem of XP only showing 3.25GB of RAM there shouldn't be any problems. Especially since A-Data are on the list of supported manufacturers.

I've heard about people having problems with the yellow ram slots, but I haven't had any problems with my 4x1GB so far.

On a different topic: The ZALMAN ZM-NBF47 northbridge cooler I ordered recently for my southbridge doesn't fit there... does anyone know whether it will be better than the stock heatsink? I'm thinking about putting it there instead but the stock heatsink is so much bigger.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MadDogX* 
I've heard about people having problems with the yellow ram slots, but I haven't had any problems with my 4x1GB so far.

That isn't an issue anymore if you update the BIOS.

Just wondering.. Do you have any luck getting your Q6600 past 2.7 GHz? I couldn't stabilize past 2.7..


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
That isn't an issue anymore if you update the BIOS.

Just wondering.. Do you have any luck getting your Q6600 past 2.7 GHz? I couldn't stabilize past 2.7..










No, I'm afraid not. My heatsink could probably handle a lot more than 2.7 Ghz but somehow the damn board fails to post with anything above 300x9. There's either a huge FSB hole - or it's the ceiling.

A lot of people have been saying the P5N-E sucks at overclocking quads, but I'm not going to just accept that. There's got to be a combination there that makes it work.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadDogX*


No, I'm afraid not. My heatsink could probably handle a lot more than 2.7 Ghz but somehow the damn board fails to post with anything above 300x9. There's either a huge FSB hole - or it's the ceiling.

A lot of people have been saying the P5N-E sucks at overclocking quads, but I'm not going to just accept that. There's got to be a combination there that makes it work.


I wish you luck then. I spent over 15 hours getting my Quad to go past 2.7 GHz. Tried everything I could think of.. Random FSB numbers to get away from the holes. Tried everything up to a 3.4 GHz.. nothing at all. One thing I noticed was that it doesn't like even clocks like 3000 MHz. You have to do like a 3011 MHz or something to get into Windows (but once in windows it crashes.. at least I get past the POST screen). I had to reset my CMOS everytime it failed (over 100 times) since it froze on the POST. Again. Good luck. Let me know what you get.


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I wish you luck then. I spent over 15 hours getting my Quad to go past 2.7 GHz. Tried everything I could think of.. Random FSB numbers to get away from the holes. Tried everything up to a 3.4 GHz.. nothing at all. One thing I noticed was that it doesn't like even clocks like 3000 MHz. You have to do like a 3011 MHz or something to get into Windows (but once in windows it crashes.. at least I get past the POST screen). I had to reset my CMOS everytime it failed (over 100 times) since it froze on the POST. Again. Good luck. Let me know what you get.



You wouldn't happen to have written down the FSBs that got you into windows?








<--- this is my hopeful face.


----------



## Blizzie

Actually no. Haha.. Sorry. I was kind of mad at that point. I kept resetting CMOS and trying different combos...

Although I know I couldn't get anything from 2700 to 3000 MHz.. Most successful were from 3000-3040 MHz.. But no go.


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Actually no. Haha.. Sorry. I was kind of mad at that point. I kept resetting CMOS and trying different combos...

Although I know I couldn't get anything from 2700 to 3000 MHz.. Most successful were from 3000-3040 MHz.. But no go.



That's a start! Thanks!









Rep+


----------



## tonedeaf

man just spent the last few hours getting things to work, anyone else found the 400mhz (1600) wall? 
also the massive vdrop as well, tried running orthos while at 1580 ( watching cpuz and as soon as it hits load the voltage drops from 1.360 to 1.296 D: orthos was crashing in around 10ish seconds. will up the vcore tomorrow took me 20mins to clear the cmos, teaches me for having a small case and jamming an 8800 and 3 drives in it >_<

heres a couple of caps of cpuz any help would be great 








its supertalent ram, settings from the manufacturer


----------



## Blizzie

My vdroop is pretty horrible too.
Idle - 1.44v
Load - 1.38v


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


My vdroop is pretty horrible too. 
Idle - 1.44v
Load - 1.38v



do the pencil mod it took a total of 1 second to do -- after 20 seconds of finding and verifying the right resistor. my droop is now .02 max .01 usually


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


do the pencil mod it took a total of 1 second to do -- after 20 seconds of finding and verifying the right resistor. my droop is now .02 max .01 usually


Ive got a link to the image of the resistor in my sig.


----------



## pn0yb0i

I too own a q6600 and want to get past 2.8GHz

So ill put my configs in by bios, and Ill let you guys tweak it and see what works for you. (very stable...)
*
Voltage settings:*

Vcore: 1.43750
Ram: Auto
NB Core: 1.56
Vcore offset: Auto
*
FSB Settings:*

FSB: 1230 MHz (307.5 x9.0 Multiplier)

Ram FSB: Default

Everest Readings:


















Orthos 4 core 100% cpu load Small FFT test video comming soon (Youtube).

<a href=

Vdroop down to 1.25v from 1.38v (.13v Difference) on full load.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Just to let you know. Some people have been very unsuccessful getting a Q6600 to overclock on this board. I couldn't boot stable with a speed of higher than 2.7 GHz, which is really disappointing.


Some? More like most. I am the one lucky bastard that got his Q6600 to 3.0GHz on the P5N-E SLI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


That isn't an issue anymore if you update the BIOS.
Just wondering.. Do you have any luck getting your Q6600 past 2.7 GHz? I couldn't stabilize past 2.7..










For me getting past 2.7 was a real challange. I discovered that low Vcore settings helped stability and heat tremendously.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadDogX*


No, I'm afraid not. My heatsink could probably handle a lot more than 2.7 Ghz but somehow the damn board fails to post with anything above 300x9. There's either a huge FSB hole - or it's the ceiling.
A lot of people have been saying the P5N-E sucks at overclocking quads, but I'm not going to just accept that. There's got to be a combination there that makes it work.


It's a ceiling. All the evidence points to the 3-phase VRM design on the P5N-e SLI lacking the guts to provide adequate *amps* to the CPU. Most of the newer P35/X38 boards utilize 6, 8, and even 12 phase VRMs that gives clean stable power.

The Pook had good results (+75-100MHz) getting his *C2D* above the 500fsb+ on this board by actively cooling the VRM MOSFET regulators. I added cooling myself, but have not yet tried to clock any higher than the 3.0GHz that I got before the mods.

Again.....Especially for G0 owners, try running a low Vcore. My VID is 1.2875, I'm stable @ 1.22V running 3.0GHz (333*9).


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Ive got a link to the image of the resistor in my sig.


Can you uh.. circle where it exactly is in Paint with a Red Brush for me please?







I just take a pencil and shade it right?


----------



## Nixer

I am interested in the pencil mod too and have searched and I cannot find a detailed description or "how to".

Thanks.


----------



## SSJVegeta

I wouldn't mind trying the pencil mod either. I also get terrible vdroop.


----------



## ZionEx

Here is what I found yall.

http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=4450

I may try it when I get home tonight.


----------



## Asce

Its marked off in yellow just under the CPU fan header. Just make sure yo udo it slowly and carefully, you dont want to overvolt it like i have done.


----------



## Gauvenator

I finally realized what my problem is.

Turns out I have a hole at 400 too. At first I thought it was the vdroop causing instability, because more voltage helped at 400, but I always froze eventually. But now I've lowered my fsb from 1600 to 1590 and it's stable so far. Perhaps now I should try a lower vcore since it was a hole after all....









I would try a higher FSB, but idk if my cooling can handle it. I already hit 59 under load, occaisionally 60.


----------



## ZionEx

Based upon what Asce has said, that means the guide I found is in contradiction. The question here then is, which is right or do they both give the same end result?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZionEx* 
Based upon what Asce has said, that means the guide I found is in contradiction. The question here then is, which is right or do they both give the same end result?

I believe your guide talks about allowing more total vcore/RAM/NB voltage while what Asce said allows you to lower the vdroop.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys. Long time no see. So I got my E2140 last week Friday.
By Sunday I had it humming along at 2.92GHz.









I ran into some trouble between 1100FSB and in the 1300FSB area. I was wondering if I hit my CPU's FSB wall I heard about or the mobo's FSB hole, but I took a chance and put it straight to 1400FSB. And voila. POSTed.









Currently running 1460FSB with my CPU @ 2.92GHz with 1.3v.(It's in the low 1.3xxv, can't remember the exact setting in BIOS, don't want to restart now to go look







) Orthos loads at 52 degrees on low fan speed on my Zalman. So I'm wondering how far I can still take it?

Can I realistically expect more from this CPU or am I pretty much near it's limit? I tried pushing past 1500FSB, but it won't post. So I'm not sure if I should keep going or not.


----------



## RATNIK

Hey, another few quick questions. About to overclock the e6300, as mentioned before my aim is at least 2.5-2.8, now since I am not familiar with over clocking, are those hertz possible without modding the voltage, just by bumping up the fsb to, say 350-400? If possible so, are those comfortable hertz without any other adjustments such as voltage mods (besides manual ram timings), or is it stressing smtn somewhere? Last question, is delta T significant for N & S poles (bridges







) with these hertz? Thanks for the patience and assistance...


----------



## ZionEx

Ok so today at work I am testing out my system for stability but so far it is sitting at about 45 minutes in orthos. 52-54 C per core and is overclocked to 3ghz from the stock 2Ghz. Voltage is set to 1.42 and drooping to 1.36 under load. I will try Asce's recommendation for the pencil mod now that Blizzie has made it clear which does what.

CPU = E4400
FSB = 1.2Ghz
Multi = 10
Volt = 1.42
Freq = 3.0 Ghz


----------



## ZionEx

Yay an hour stable!!

Attachment 62055


----------



## Asce

Also doing the resistor in my sig will help you achieve a lower stable vcore, since you dont need to have a high setting to achieve the OC.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Are there any risks with the pencil mod and is it a 2B pencil you need to use?

Can you undo the mod once you have done it? Any tips on how much graphite to put on the resistor?

EDIT: Looks like I can hit 3GHz with 1.45v (includes +100mV setting). With vdroop at full load it goes down to 1.39v ~ 1.38v so the pencil mod would help quite a bit if I did it providing there aren't any real risks to the motherboard or CPU.


----------



## ZionEx

Good question, I would like to find this out myself.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Are there any risks with the pencil mod and is it a 2B pencil you need to use?

Can you undo the mod once you have done it? Any tips on how much graphite to put on the resistor?

EDIT: Looks like I can hit 3GHz with 1.45v (includes +100mV setting). With vdroop at full load it goes down to 1.39v ~ 1.38v so the pencil mod would help quite a bit if I did it providing there aren't any real risks to the motherboard or CPU.

Yeah pretty sure a 2B pencil will work fine. And you can easily undo it, thats the advantages of a pencil mod, just shut it off, whipe off the graphite and the mod is gone. As for how much, you just have to go slow, it takes a few tries to gauge how much, depends on how heavy per stroke you put on / the pencil you use.


----------



## Nixer

Just getting started on this today. Just played with the FSB so far and set Vcore at 1.42 volts. I can't go over 1592 FSB or it won't post. Memory is down around 766 right now. Ran 16m Super Pi fine and 3dMark 06 over 13,000.

Do ya'll think 4Ghz is possible on air 24/7? If so any suggestions on how to get there would be much appreciated.

What's the highest FSB anybody has gotten?


----------



## Gauvenator

I think some people have managed over 2000 fsb with this board.

I suggest you jump to something like 1650 because there is a hole around 1600fsb.


----------



## RATNIK

My RAM just arrived, 4x1GB a-data extreme. Now my ? is when you have more ram is it better to work on teh timings or the Mhz. ie. I set my timings to 4-4-4-12 2T and plan to do 1:1 FBS of 380 so roughly 760mhz. Or should I do 5-5-5-18 2T and 800Mhz; keep in mind amount of ram. Thanks ahead for any tips


----------



## Nixer

It seems my FSB hole is from >1600 all the way to 1722 mhz.

3.8 Ghz semi-stable. 1.48 vCore and 1.5v NB. Boots into Wndows. I can run Super Pi but the temps get into high 50's C. Orthos won't run.

1:1 Ratio, multiplier at stock 9.
I now have it Orthos stable a 3.6 Ghz. 1.44vCore. I think that is my magic number so far. Anything over 1600 FSB up until 1720 mhz and I get errors. Too much Voltage needed above 1720 and it starts pushin 70C under full load.


----------



## SSJVegeta

I just tried 3.15GHz with 1.475v CPU vcore and 1.56v for NB and as soon as I started Orthos my PC reboot. My CPU must be very vcore hungry









My RAM is 667MHz stock but it can be OC'd to 800MHz with no problem and with 3.15GHz it was linked with the FSB so it was OC'd to 700MHz which is I know is a stable OC for the RAM.


----------



## RATNIK

A-DATA Vitesta Extreme (2x1GB) doesn't do well on this board, frequent BSOD while in-game and basic application use. Tried various settings, nothing. Will be getting G.Skill ones from the list someone posted in 2nd post I think.


----------



## Nixer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RATNIK*


A-DATA Vitesta Extreme (2x1GB) doesn't do well on this board, frequent BSOD while in-game and basic application use. Tried various settings, nothing. Will be getting G.Skill ones from the list someone posted in 2nd post I think.



I just bought some G.Skill.....DOA. I put my old Kingston in a works great. FWIW.


----------



## pn0yb0i

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nixer*


I just bought some G.Skill.....DOA. I put my old Kingston in a works great. FWIW.


I bought some G.Skill ram too, and I THOUGHT it was DOA. - I updated my bios and wham, Ram woks like a charm. To date, I have never got anything DOA - I think most of the time it's due to the user. And for some reason, people on Newegg like to review items when they are DOA... which serves no point really, just a waste of Feedback.

Try updating your bios to the latest or at least up to 0701 (Asus comments that this BIOS version solved issues with a "certain" Memory Module, most likely G.Skill)

Read my sig and see if the ram model is similar.


----------



## Blizzie

Dang it.. I can't get the pencil mod right. Voltage is either too low or too high. I can never get it right.









I just stopped and gave up after an hour of trying.









Small FFT on Orthos makes me vcore of 1.443 go to 1.36.. Awesome. 0.08 vdroop.









Edit: Okay something is wrong now.. SuperPiMod freezes when I run 1M. Reverted back to stock settings and it still freezes up. Downloaded a fresh copy, still no go. Think I should run a memtest.


----------



## seedclash1

Hello and Happy Holidays everyone!!!

I'm new here so just introducing myself. I just changed my memory from Corsair Value Select 667 to Crucial Ballistix Tracer 800 and they are just a thing of beauty. Better memory performance with the moving LED lights a bonus for the eyes. Too bad my casing's side panel has no acrylic window yet (will have it modded early next year).

Anyway, I will ask questions on my next posts and I'm hoping some of you guys would be kind enough to answer them.

Thanks.


----------



## tonedeaf

jesus h ****ing christ, did the vdrop mod and guess what. ZERO vdroop i mean none. seriously i love you


----------



## Nixer

Would somebody please do a detailed pencil mod explanation. Not just a picture.

*I updated my bios and wham, Ram woks like a charm. To date, I have never got anything DOA - I think most of the time it's due to the user. *

lol Albert E. Lets see...I have a new board, came 0703. I set the timings and voltage manually before the first time I booted into Winblowz. I got all kinds of random crashes and errors. So.... I put my old Kingston in and it worked like a charm.

Thanks for the sage commentary though.


----------



## sherpa_man

can anybody help me im having problems running 4 gig on this board 3 gig works fine then i put the 4th stick in and it crashes i thought it was faulty sticks buts its not i rotate the sticks and they work fine when i put a 4th stick in the comp crashes any ideas ?

what ram has been tested and working on this board i want 4 gig


----------



## tonedeaf

Nixer,
have a look at that pic, see the yellow (its not originally yellow on your motherboard) bit under the cpu fan. beside the big square thing. get a fairly sharp but but not too sharp 2B pencil and colour that bit in, enough for it to look darker than usual probably just a few strokes and thats it. if you want to remove it just get some rubbing alcohol on a qtip and gently rub it off.
just remember to make sure the pc is off and unplugged from any powersource and that youve grounded your self forehand, dont want to take any risks.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0/DSC00032.jpg


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonedeaf*


Nixer,
have a look at that pic, see the yellow (its not originally yellow on your motherboard) bit under the cpu fan. beside the big square thing. get a fairly sharp but but not too sharp 2B pencil and colour that bit in, enough for it to look darker than usual probably just a few strokes and thats it. if you want to remove it just get some rubbing alcohol on a qtip and gently rub it off.
just remember to make sure the pc is off and unplugged from any powersource and that youve grounded your self forehand, dont want to take any risks.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0/DSC00032.jpg


Can you clarify how it works? I tried again today and wen my Vcore is 1.35v in BIOS it's 1.38v in Windows. When it's 1.443v in BIOS it's 1.6v in Windows. Is that okay?


----------



## tonedeaf

Blizzie. tbh i dont know exactly how it works but i think it just bridges a gap skipping a resistor, makes sense to me cause it lowered the vdroop to 0 on load for me.


----------



## Nixer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonedeaf*


Blizzie. tbh i dont know exactly how it works but i think it just bridges a gap skipping a resistor, makes sense to me cause it lowered the vdroop to 0 on load for me.



Thanks I'll give it a try. My Vdroop is huge.

+rep


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonedeaf*


Blizzie. tbh i dont know exactly how it works but i think it just bridges a gap skipping a resistor, makes sense to me cause it lowered the vdroop to 0 on load for me.


You have the right idea. The graphite of the pencil conducts electricity, reducing the overall resistance of the circut. Carefull with altering resistance and be sure to check your work with an ohmmeter as too low of a resistance will actually overvolt your CPU.


----------



## SSJVegeta

How do you check if the CPU is overvolted?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
How do you check if the CPU is overvolted?

Check the BIOS, if its overvolting,

For example: I would set my Vcore to 1.35V and in the BIOS it would show 1.37V.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Found more info on the vdroop mod:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=127528&page=1

I just need a 2B pencil now









What is the maximum safe voltage for CPU vcore? 1.5v?


----------



## Blizzie

Uh oh.. I'm overvolted then.
BIOS setting is 1.46v but in Windows it shoes 1.47v..

Can I keep it that way or is it bad? I've spent over an hour trying to do this. >> Sadly. I can never get it perfect.

----

And yes Intel says to not pass 1.5v.


----------



## SSJVegeta

I'm just wondering, for my current 2.8GHz OC I am running at stock vcore of 1.325v. Is it better to run at 1.225v and enable the +100mV option in the BIOS?

Also, which BIOS version is the best? I'm still using 0401 which allows me to change the CPU multi. I know 0602 didn't allow me to change the CPU multi but do the latest versions let you?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I'm just wondering, for my current 2.8GHz OC I am running at stock vcore of 1.325v. Is it better to run at 1.225v and enable the +100mV option in the BIOS?

Also, which BIOS version is the best? I'm still using 0401 which allows me to change the CPU multi. I know 0602 didn't allow me to change the CPU multi but do the latest versions let you?


The +100mV is supposed to help lower your vdroop. If I were you I'd just run it at 1.325v.

I'm using 0602. Don't see a problem with changing the CPU multi. Running 450 MHz x 8 right now.

---

Anyways I need to know if overvolting is a problem, asap.


----------



## SSJVegeta

What motherboard temps are people getting with the stock northbridge cooler?

I'm getting 34c (measured with EVEREST) with a Thermalright HR-05 SLI heatsink with 350MHz FSB.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
What motherboard temps are people getting with the stock northbridge cooler?

I'm getting 34c (measured with EVEREST) with a Thermalright HR-05 SLI heatsink with 350MHz FSB.

MB = 29 C (ASUS Probe)
Stock heatsink, no fan on it.
No one is sure how "MB" is calculated though.


----------



## SSJVegeta

What is the stock voltage for the northbridge? Is it 1.393v?


----------



## tonedeaf

everst says 49*c
but my NB is on 1.7v and i slapped on an old AMD athlon fan to it


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


What is the stock voltage for the northbridge? Is it 1.393v?


Yeah i believe so, well stock is technically AUTO, which I believe is the 1.39V option


----------



## sherpa_man

http://crucial.com/uk/store/mpartspe...897661A5CA7304

could do withabit of help here guys the computer runs fine with 3 1gig sticks installed when i put the 4th in it crashes i have bought new sticks and rotated the stick there all working fine im running the lastest bios and cant get it running with 4 gig any ideas ? the computer just locks up evan when its booting take one stick out and its fine ?

i have just read there is a hole around 800 mhz when running 1 gig sticks x 4 has anybody ele had this problem ?

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



I'm just wondering, for my current 2.8GHz OC I am running at stock vcore of 1.325v. Is it better to run at 1.225v and enable the +100mV option in the BIOS?

Also, which BIOS version is the best? I'm still using 0401 which allows me to change the CPU multi. I know 0602 didn't allow me to change the CPU multi but do the latest versions let you?


I'm getting mid to lower 40's idle, depending on the ambients, at 395fsb.

I'm definitely considering that HR-05 SLI for my nb....is it small enough that if it's rotated towards graphics card slot one, it doesn't touch the back of it?


----------



## pn0yb0i

With the q6600 I am able to achieve Higher clocks with Linked RAM FSB, any reason why? If FSB is not linked, I get a freeze on POST. Ive got it up to 2.88GHz stable (On latest BIOS). 48c ~ 50c Idle (Under water) About 60 Flat with Orthos x 2.... May have to reseat the water block, or its really this hot....


----------



## Procol

Hello

Im having problems finding a compatible ram for my motherboard.
I have tested three different brands.

Rams:

Kingston HyperX Low-Latency - 800MHz DDR2 (2x1024MB), CL4 (4-4-4-12), NON-ECC, SLI-ready.

OCZ DDR2 2GB PC2-6400 NVIDIA SLI-Ready Edition 2x 1024Mb Kit.

Those two did not work i got BSOD when i put pc on.
after testing those two i choosed to buy some memeroy that is in the lis of Qalified ram.

Now when i got my new Transcend JetRam 1GB DDR2 800Mhz DIMM 5-5-5. 
When i play a game i can get some random Error kernel32.dll plz somebody help me cause im really desperate.

Regards Nico


----------



## Lude

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


Hello

Im having problems finding a compatible ram for my motherboard.
I have tested three different brands.

Rams:

Kingston HyperX Low-Latency - 800MHz DDR2 (2x1024MB), CL4 (4-4-4-12), NON-ECC, SLI-ready.

OCZ DDR2 2GB PC2-6400 NVIDIA SLI-Ready Edition 2x 1024Mb Kit.

Those two did not work i got BSOD when i put pc on.
after testing those two i choosed to buy some memeroy that is in the lis of Qalified ram.

Now when i got my new Transcend JetRam 1GB DDR2 800Mhz DIMM 5-5-5. 
When i play a game i can get some random Error kernel32.dll plz somebody help me cause im really desperate.

Regards Nico


Are you putting them in 2 slots close to each other, or spacing them out? If you are spacing them out, try putting them right next to each other. Or just try some other combos. I had this problem at first. My old mobo didnt care, but this one seems to.

(Dont mind my system specs, im in the process of RMAing my P5N-E for bad memory slots, 2 of which i never used)


----------



## Procol

Okay thanks lude i will test that out.
Do u know if 3x1gb of this transcend shuold work on this motherboard or is it limited?


----------



## cscheat

guys... time to leave this board.... 
finally decided to sell this board and buy ABit which is flawless in Quad Core Overclocking...

Wish u all here all the best in future of P5N-E SLI overclocking


----------



## Procol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lude*


Are you putting them in 2 slots close to each other, or spacing them out? If you are spacing them out, try putting them right next to each other. Or just try some other combos. I had this problem at first. My old mobo didnt care, but this one seems to.

(Dont mind my system specs, im in the process of RMAing my P5N-E for bad memory slots, 2 of which i never used)


okay now i have tested all the rams seperatly and together in different places.
And thing thing i noticed is that all the ram sticks work fine alone but as soon as i add 1 more or 2 i start getting theese random errors.
plz help guys what do u suggest i shuold/cuold do?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


okay now i have tested all the rams seperatly and together in different places.
And thing thing i noticed is that all the ram sticks work fine alone but as soon as i add 1 more or 2 i start getting theese random errors.
plz help guys what do u suggest i shuold/cuold do?


Put in two sticks and run memtest86 for three rounds and see if they error. I find that BIOS version 0608 is the most stable.


----------



## Procol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Put in two sticks and run memtest86 for three rounds and see if they error. I find that BIOS version 0608 is the most stable.


ok but i havent figured out how the memtest86 works cause as i understood it requires floppy disk and i got only cdroms


----------



## Gauvenator

You need to download the ISO, and burn the image to a CD.

MAKE SURE YOU DON'T JUST COPY IT TO A CD. There is a special way to do it....what program are you using?


----------



## Procol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
You need to download the ISO, and burn the image to a CD.

MAKE SURE YOU DON'T JUST COPY IT TO A CD. There is a special way to do it....what program are you using?

I got nero and i shuold burn it as a bootable cd?

and btw what kind of cd does it have to be?


----------



## Gauvenator

choose "Burn Image to Disc" under "Backup"

That should do it.

*edit: oh and make sure that you're BIOS is set to boot from CD first. Also it doesn't matter what kind of CD or DVD you use. (as far as I know....I've never had problems with CD-R's, or DVD-R's)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
choose "Burn Image to Disc" under "Backup"

That should do it.

*edit: oh and make sure that you're BIOS is set to boot from CD first. Also it doesn't matter what kind of CD or DVD you use. (as far as I know....I've never had problems with CD-R's, or DVD-R's)

You don't need the BIOS set to boot from CD first, mine is set only to ever boot from the HDD, all you need to do is just hit F8 on start-up and pick the dvd-rom to boot from.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Just did the vdroop mod with a HB pencil (#2). With bios at 1.325v, 2.8GHz OC and Orthos small fft test at full load voltage would go down to 1.28v but now its stuck at 1.34v with and without load so its overvolting right?

I'll try higher voltages since I want to get 3GHz or higher.

Is it ok to remove the graphite from the resistor with Akasa TIM Clean?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Just did the vdroop mod with a HB pencil (#2). With bios at 1.325v, 2.8GHz OC and Orthos small fft test at full load voltage would go down to 1.28v but now its stuck at 1.34v with and without load so its overvolting right?

I'll try higher voltages since I want to get 3GHz or higher.

Is it ok to remove the graphite from the resistor with Akasa TIM Clean?

Yes, that's overvolting. Use isopropyl alcohol and wipe off the graphite. Boot to check before reapplying the graphite.


----------



## SSJVegeta

With 1.40 vcore bios shows 1.41v and under load I am getting 1.39v. Much better than the 0.06 ~ 0.08 vdroop I was getting before.

3GHz (333 x 9) has been Orthos stable for nearly 45mins now.


----------



## sherpa_man

come on guys what ram do i need or what do i need to run 4 gig of ram on this board the sticks im using will only let me run 3 without crashing


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


come on guys what ram do i need or what do i need to run 4 gig of ram on this board the sticks im using will only let me run 3 without crashing


Fill out your system specifications before we can help you. We need to know what other hardware you have. You can do this in User CP. Right side, Add System.


----------



## texascbx

Hey guys, been lurking here for a while. Good thread going here. I think I've read the whole thing. Got my system to 3.0Ghz and I'm happy there.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


come on guys what ram do i need or what do i need to run 4 gig of ram on this board the sticks im using will only let me run 3 without crashing


Elixer? I've never heard of that RAM before. Do you have any other RAM you can test?

On another note you have a Q6600. This board is known to be bad with Quad Cores. Numerous people have failed to get a Quad to stabilize past 2.8 GHz, including myself.


----------



## tonedeaf

anyone used any aftermarket northbridge coolers with a tuniq? im trying to figure out which will fit with a tuniq


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Elixer? I've never heard of that RAM before. Do you have any other RAM you can test?

On another note you have a Q6600. This board is known to be bad with Quad Cores. Numerous people have failed to get a Quad to stabilize past 2.8 GHz, including myself.



its made by samsung it cant be bad ram as it works with 3 sticks in i ahve run a ram test works fine with 3 but crashes ith 4 i have changed the ram so i know its not a faulty stick


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


its made by samsung it cant be bad ram as it works with 3 sticks in i ahve run a ram test works fine with 3 but crashes ith 4 i have changed the ram so i know its not a faulty stick


Drop your BIOS back to 0608. Run memtest86 again.


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Drop your BIOS back to 0608. Run memtest86 again.



what a star been running fine for about a hour now great thanks so much


----------



## sherpa_man

http://www.elixir-memory.com/product...0-07312006.pdf

anybody tell me what my ram timings should be from this doc i cant suss it my ram model is m2y1g64tu8hb0b-25c (1 gig sticks x 4)


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
http://www.elixir-memory.com/product...0-07312006.pdf

anybody tell me what my ram timings should be from this doc i cant suss it my ram model is m2y1g64tu8hb0b-25c (1 gig sticks x 4)

Awesome.







Glad it works.

For your RAM, get CPU-Z and look at the memory tab.
As you can see for mine it's [email protected]


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Awesome.







Glad it works.

For your RAM, get CPU-Z and look at the memory tab.
As you can see for mine it's [email protected]

spoke abit to soon had a few crashes :-( just cant understand it could it be i just have me bios on auto and not put the timmings in ?

what ram do i need to buy if i want to run 4 gig ? 2 x 2 gig sticks ? and what brand and models


----------



## tankman12

Well guys, I should have my P5N-E Sli mobo on Friday, just in time for my 3 day weekend. I am not gonna read all 500+ pages in this thread but I will scan over and find the good stuff. I will be using an E6550 SLA9X cpu and 2x1gig sticks of Corsair CM2X1024-5400C4. Does anyone foresee a problem with this combination? Ram issues or anything? Stock timing on the ram is [email protected]

Thanks in advance for any help,


----------



## tonedeaf

parts wise i dont see any problems but just make sure you have decent cooling (fans, airflow etc) and a nice steady power supply. also dont skimp on the thermal paste spend the extra $5 and get some AS5 or TX2 it will be worth it


----------



## tankman12

Thanks for the advice. My CPU cooler is a SilenX ITC 120. Its sort of a big cooler and I hope it clears everything. Case will have a couple fans attached so cooling shouldnt be an issue.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


spoke abit to soon had a few crashes :-( just cant understand it could it be i just have me bios on auto and not put the timmings in ?

what ram do i need to buy if i want to run 4 gig ? 2 x 2 gig sticks ? and what brand and models


Don't put it on auto, you have to set the RAM timings yourself or you'll start seeing problems.

If you want 2 x 2 you could get..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122

-----

Can we gather more data on "MB" temperature from ASUS Probe? Mine says 28-30C but I hear of people getting 40C under load.. Why is mine so low. Stock heatsink with no active cooling.


----------



## OptimusPrime

Yay ! new proud owner of a P5N-E for christmas







i can't wait to start putting it together. I dragged agp out to the bitter end LOL


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OptimusPrime*


Yay ! new proud owner of a P5N-E for christmas







i can't wait to start putting it together. I dragged agp out to the bitter end LOL











Awesome. Let us know how it goes.


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Don't put it on auto, you have to set the RAM timings yourself or you'll start seeing problems.

If you want 2 x 2 you could get..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122

-----

Can we gather more data on "MB" temperature from ASUS Probe? Mine says 28-30C but I hear of people getting 40C under load.. Why is mine so low. Stock heatsink with no active cooling.


how do i find my ram timmings then ?


----------



## NICO6ride6mosh6

I'm running 2x2GB sticks of Patriot Extreme PC2-6400 on my P5N-E. it uses 5-5-5-12 timings. i originally set them manually, then set them auto and it still detected the right timings. but my computer has been randomly crashing in both XP pro x64 and vista ultimate 32 since i built it. am i missing something?
i ran memtest86 off of my ubuntu live cd and it didn't find any errors.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


how do i find my ram timmings then ?


Use the SPD Tab in CPU-Z or go to your RAM manufacturer's website and look for your RAM.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NICO6ride6mosh6*


I'm running 2x2GB sticks of Patriot Extreme PC2-6400 on my P5N-E. it uses 5-5-5-12 timings. i originally set them manually, then set them auto and it still detected the right timings. but my computer has been randomly crashing in both XP pro x64 and vista ultimate 32 since i built it. am i missing something?
i ran memtest86 off of my ubuntu live cd and it didn't find any errors.


Did you set the RAM voltage in BIOS too?


----------



## JerseyDubbin

Okay so i just built up my rig in my sig.

Eveyrthing is connected correctly but i have two quesitons.

MY CD rom is not sata which port should i connect the IDE cable to on the board. I"m using the blue one currently but i can't load any drivers etc. IT asks me to insert disk into drive A??

And now the major task it won't stay running for more than 5 minutes. It keeps crashing etc. SOmetimes less than 30 seconds other times it will run for 2 or 3.

TIA
Phil


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


Okay so i just built up my rig in my sig.

Eveyrthing is connected correctly but i have two quesitons.

MY CD rom is not sata which port should i connect the IDE cable to on the board. I"m using the blue one currently but i can't load any drivers etc. IT asks me to insert disk into drive A??

And now the major task it won't stay running for more than 5 minutes. It keeps crashing etc. SOmetimes less than 30 seconds other times it will run for 2 or 3.

TIA
Phil



Connect the CD Drive IDE cable to the blue one on the motherboard. If you're not using a Floppy Drive, disable it in BIOS. See what it gives you.

Make sure you set your RAM timings and RAM voltage; it will not auto detect them properly. Check your CPU voltages, etc to make sure they're all accurate. I forgot which one the BIOS has but disable EIST, SpeedStep, C1E. Disable RAID if you're not using it, Firewire, and Legacy USB. Report back.


----------



## chmoosi

One question.. I'm in the process of getting a new setup and have been reading around this thread and P5N-E SLI seems good for me but I have questions. Are there more optimal choices if don't plan to use the SLI feature? Also are any specific processors recommended? (I plan to OC a bit, but not any ginormous amounts). I've been initially checking out E6750.

Any help appreciated! Thanks.

J


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chmoosi*


One question.. I'm in the process of getting a new setup and have been reading around this thread and P5N-E SLI seems good for me but I have questions. Are there more optimal choices if don't plan to use the SLI feature? Also are any specific processors recommended? (I plan to OC a bit, but not any ginormous amounts). I've been initially checking out E6750.

Any help appreciated! Thanks.

J


This board is good for Dual Cores but if you want to upgrade to a Quad later, get a different board. This board is a good performer for the cost, which is why I got it. I don't use the SLI feature of this board though.

You can look at the DFI Blood Iron board or the P5K boards. But I don't know how they perform; just heard great things about them.


----------



## tonedeaf

are all your power plugs connected? the 12v on the motherboard and the one for the video card (if it needs one)


----------



## JerseyDubbin

okay so i can barely keep it running long enough to change memory etc. But ig ot the memory changed to 4-4-4-12 which is what the patriot memory i got told me to do..

it's still crashing every like thirty seconds maybe a minute or two now. When i try to install drivers it's saying insert system disk into floppy A:\\

and when i remove the system disk i get the error saying to insert system disk.


----------



## tonedeaf

unplug everything and plug it all back in, memory could half plugged in same with video card and your other pci devices if you have any.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


okay so i can barely keep it running long enough to change memory etc. But ig ot the memory changed to 4-4-4-12 which is what the patriot memory i got told me to do..

it's still crashing every like thirty seconds maybe a minute or two now. When i try to install drivers it's saying insert system disk into floppy A:

and when i remove the system disk i get the error saying to insert system disk.


Did you set the voltage for your RAM too?

Do you have another CD Drive to test with. Maybe it dislikes yours o.o Before we go anywhere else.. are you in Windows? Installing Windows, or what?

If you have a new motherboard, you MUST reformat your harddrive with a fresh Windows installation.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

i am trying to reformat it's a brand new hd with nothing on it but i coudln't keep it up long enough

so now i unplugged everything and replugged everything carefully and now i have no display it turns on the cmos light is on and vc fan comes on but nada in the display


----------



## JerseyDubbin

okay my cd drive isn't getting any power nor is my hd *** the fans turn on for everything and that's about it don't tell me my mobo is gone


----------



## JerseyDubbin

i get the feeling the board/cpu or both are dead. I'm getting nothing on boot now. All fans turn on cmos light is on video card fan is on but the cd drive isn't getting power now but the hd is so it's not a psu failure idk what else to think...this sucks


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin* 
i get the feeling the board/cpu or both are dead. I'm getting nothing on boot now. All fans turn on cmos light is on video card fan is on but the cd drive isn't getting power now but the hd is so it's not a psu failure idk what else to think...this sucks

Reseat your CPU again. Make sure you apply new thermal compound. If you have extra sticks of RAM, try using those. If not, put in one stick and boot.

If there's no luck, create a new thread here or in General Intel so more people can help. I'm out of ideas.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

okay thanks mayne


----------



## tonedeaf

check if your motherboard isnt shorting on the case though the little stilt screw things or screws (use the paper washers if it came with any)
check for bent pins on the motherboard
check to see if the power button isnt stuck down or the reset button (unplug the front panel and start the pc manually with a screw driver and short the power button pins on the motherboard)
when reseating the cpu check for bent pins on the socket.
smell the motherboard see if anythings burnt.

thats all that i can think of atm sorry

also check that the USB is plugged in correctly to the motherboard and that you dont have any usb devices plugged in, it happens sometimes my old pc wouldn't start up one day cause it had a usb memory stick plugged into it i took it out and it worked fine. .. strangely it booted fine with the usb stick in it afterwards too lol


----------



## JerseyDubbin

that is exactly what was happening those dam copper mounting screws uinderneath the mobo were shorting it. it's up and running but idk where to go from here. I have an unformatted stat samsung HD but i cna't figure out how to format it. neither vista 32 or 64 will boot but my ubuntu cd does but i would like to have vista put on it. should i try using the formatter in ubuntu to format the drive for NTFS?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


that is exactly what was happening those dam copper mounting screws uinderneath the mobo were shorting it. it's up and running but idk where to go from here. I have an unformatted stat samsung HD but i cna't figure out how to format it. neither vista 32 or 64 will boot but my ubuntu cd does but i would like to have vista put on it. should i try using the formatter in ubuntu to format the drive for NTFS?


Boot your Vista CD and that'll format the drive for you. There's no need to format it before hand.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

the vista won't boot i get an INSERT BOOT CD on my screen when i boot from the cdrom when the vista cd is in it


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


the vista won't boot i get an INSERT BOOT CD on my screen when i boot from the cdrom when the vista cd is in it


You're sure you drive is a DVD drive? Vista comes on a DVD I'm pretty sure.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


You're sure you drive is a DVD drive? Vista comes on a DVD I'm pretty sure.


Second that. Make sure you put it in a DVD Drive.

By the way, Vista does come in CD format. If you order it specially packaged in CD format from Microsoft.


----------



## tonedeaf

if setting boot priorities doesnt work, press f8 just after post and it will come up with a boot menu


----------



## JerseyDubbin

okay well i got ubuntu to load i think i'm just getting a new cd/dvd reader writer tomorrow thanks for all your help guys!!!


----------



## salphire

Hello...looking from my post count you can see that im a newbie to this forum..

Anyway..I also have this board, and my cpu is q6600. Well, i know that P5N-E is not a good quad oc, but Im having trouble with the stability even when running at stock speed. The windows can run for 2 hours before the BSOD occurs. Doesnt matter what is the activity, game, movie or even browsing the web. The RAM and GC is okay, I check it with other system. Temp of the CPU is around 50C during full load..(usually gaming)

My bios is 0701...i think...and below is my computer spec,

cpu: Intel Q6600 2.4ghz G0 stepping
GC: Gigabyte 8800gt
Ram: 2 X 1 Gigs DDR2 Kingston 667mhz value Ram
HD: WD 250gigs SATA
PSU: Silverstone ST56F

Please..any help will be very much appreciate...kind of scary waiting for the BSOD especially during the playing...have to quicksave regularly


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *salphire* 
Hello...looking from my post count you can see that im a newbie to this forum..

Anyway..I also have this board, and my cpu is q6600. Well, i know that P5N-E is not a good quad oc, but Im having trouble with the stability even when running at stock speed. The windows can run for 2 hours before the BSOD occurs. Doesnt matter what is the activity, game, movie or even browsing the web. The RAM and GC is okay, I check it with other system. Temp of the CPU is around 50C during full load..(usually gaming)

My bios is 0701...i think...and below is my computer spec,

cpu: Intel Q6600 2.4ghz G0 stepping
GC: Gigabyte 8800gt
Ram: 2 X 1 Gigs DDR2 Kingston 667mhz value Ram
HD: WD 250gigs SATA
PSU: Silverstone ST56F

Please..any help will be very much appreciate...kind of scary waiting for the BSOD especially during the playing...have to quicksave regularly

First, fill out your system specifications by going to User CP on top and clicking on Add System.

You say your RAM is okay. Did you make sure that the timings and voltages are right? Could be faulty RAM too. Run memtest86 for a few rounds to test.

Also, I find that BIOS 0608 is most stable.


----------



## salphire

Ok..system added..Thx...

Yeah..I tested with memtest86...running for one night..its ok..I guess..because it showing no error

As for the voltage..and ram timing..as I plan to just use the stock cpu speed...I just leave it to auto...

I had the same problem with the 608 bios, thus the upgrade, well still got the BSOD.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *salphire*


Ok..system added..Thx...

Yeah..I tested with memtest86...running for one night..its ok..I guess..because it showing no error

As for the voltage..and ram timing..as I plan to just use the stock cpu speed...I just leave it to auto...

I had the same problem with the 608 bios, thus the upgrade, well still got the BSOD.


No no. You have to set the RAM timings and voltage. Don't do Auto. Go to the RAM manufacturer's website and lookup the specs for them.

I know my computer crashes and freezes right when it gets in Windows if it's on Auto.


----------



## salphire

Ok I will look it up....when i get to the computer after work
Thnx ..


----------



## tom555

Hi,

could someone please write a small tutorial how to overclock a Q6600.
I googled like the whole internet, and didn't find anything decent...
On some sites they don't change their voltage of their CPU (?!), and on other sites they like change EVERY setting in their BIOS just to overclock +400Mhz 
So what should I do?

This is my whole system:

Mobo: Asus P5N-e SLI
CPU: Intel Q6600 G0 (the good revision







)
CPU-cooling: Zalman 9500
GFX: Sparkle 8800GTX (single)
RAM: 2x1Gb DDR2 800Mhz

I hope someone will finally be able to help me...
I want to clock it to 'bout 3.2-3.4Ghz.
Could you also notice that my stepping is G0 and NOT B3!
I read that when overclocking the voltage doesn't need to be raised as high as the B3.

Currently, I'm using the overclock option of Asus itself; 20% overclock.
I can see that my mobo, RAM,... is also overclocked (which seems very logical).
But I can not figure out what I should with the other options (memory timing, FSB to Northbridge speed,...)
Ow yeah, doesn't this damage my RAM, because if I will overclock to 3.2-3.4Ghz, my RAM will go from 800Mhz to +1000Mhz or so..

Thx already for reading, and please have some respect for my undeveloped overclock-skills...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


Hi,

could someone please write a small tutorial how to overclock a Q6600.
I googled like the whole internet, and didn't find anything decent...
On some sites they don't change their voltage of their CPU (?!), and on other sites they like change EVERY setting in their BIOS just to overclock +400Mhz 
So what should I do?

This is my whole system:

Mobo: Asus P5N-e SLI
CPU: Intel Q6600 G0 (the good revision







)
CPU-cooling: Zalman 9500
GFX: Sparkle 8800GTX (single)
RAM: 2x1Gb DDR2 800Mhz

I hope someone will finally be able to help me...
I want to clock it to 'bout 3.2-3.4Ghz.
Could you also notice that my stepping is G0 and NOT B3!
I read that when overclocking the voltage doesn't need to be raised as high as the B3.

Currently, I'm using the overclock option of Asus itself; 20% overclock.
I can see that my mobo, RAM,... is also overclocked (which seems very logical).
But I can not figure out what I should with the other options (memory timing, FSB to Northbridge speed,...)
Ow yeah, doesn't this damage my RAM, because if I will overclock to 3.2-3.4Ghz, my RAM will go from 800Mhz to +1000Mhz or so..

Thx already for reading, and please have some respect for my undeveloped overclock-skills...


Hello, saw your other thread.

Read this first:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ing-guide.html

On one notice, this board does not overclock the Q6600 Quad Cores very well. I have failed to get past 2.7 GHz with mine. Others have maxed out at 2.8 GHz. Very lucky few reached 3.0 GHz. This 650i chipset doesn't handle the Quad very well. If you're looking to overclock a Quad, you'll want a different board.

Depending on what you decide to do; go for a mild overclock or get a new board. We'll move on from there.


----------



## tom555

? that's very strange...
I read on sites that they had clocked a Q6600 with this board 'till 3.4Ghz without probs oO and that this was an excellent mobo for overclocking!
And what you are saying is not true, because I am currently running on 2.9Ghz (the 20% overclock option of Asus), and it runs very very nice without any problems!
I ran a torture-test for like +12 hours and it remained stable, inclusive my temperature ^^ after 12 hours it was still 39Â°C


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


? that's very strange...
I read on sites that they had clocked a Q6600 with this board 'till 3.4Ghz without probs oO and that this was an excellent mobo for overclocking!
And what you are saying is not true, because I am currently running on 2.9Ghz (the 20% overclock option of Asus), and it runs very very nice without any problems!
I ran a torture-test for like +12 hours and it remained stable, inclusive my temperature ^^ after 12 hours it was still 39Â°C


Maybe you're lucky in your case, since I know many have failed to overclock past 3.0 GHz. Although that's not the proper way to overclock.

What are you running to stress your CPU? Use 4 instances of Prime 95. 4 since you have 4 cores.


----------



## tom555

jup, I use Prime95.

So you're saying it is not possible to clock my CPU to like 3.40Ghz with my mobo..









Damn, that's too bad... I was going to try overclocking it, I saw this YouTube video which clearly explains what settings you need to adjust in your BIOS,... but I guess I shouldn't because you say it doens't run stable above 3Ghz anymore...


----------



## Blizzie

Try..

Bus speed: 1355 (because it seems to not like perfect numbers; this will give you 3.05 GHz)
Vcore: 1.35v
Northbridge: 1.4v

If not then Vcore = 1.37v
Work your way from here. Tweak the Bus Speed a bit lower than 1355. Play with your voltages. Do not exceed 1.5v for Vcore.

Make sure you inputted your RAM timings and the voltage for them.


----------



## tom555

But what should I put in for my RAM timings?
Is this; 4-4-4-12? On other sites I saw they put in 5-5-5-15


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tom555* 
But what should I put in for my RAM timings?
Is this; 4-4-4-12? On other sites I saw they put in 5-5-5-15

It depends on the RAM, if you look at the sticker on the sticks of ram it'll tell you the timings that you should use for default settings.


----------



## chmoosi

Hello

anybody has experiences using this memory with the board: Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4? CM2x1024-6400C4 is on the asus' list as compatible memory so would there be any possible problems with using this memory?

J


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chmoosi*


Hello

anybody has experiences using this memory with the board: Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4? CM2x1024-6400C4 is on the asus' list as compatible memory so would there be any possible problems with using this memory?

J


I have the CM2x1024-6400C4 version. It's 2x1 GB instead of 2x2 GB. It works flawlessly for me. The 2 GB sticks shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## adk4200

I currently have MEM 2Gx2|PAT DII800 PDC24G6400ELK and an Asus p5n-e 650i SLI

I run a CPU stability test and it told me it was unstable, ran memteat86+ and got 33k errors, BSOD all over the place, all points to RAM, should I RMA and get Patriot or return and get something else? The Patriot RAM is not on the QVL, and I'm wondering if that is the problem or if the board could be messed up. I could really use any help, thanks for anything!

Currently looking at OCZ Platinum Revision 2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory X2

I would like to get 4 GB at 2GB a stick, any suggestions on which one would be helpful.


----------



## tonedeaf

get some ballistix







they have a great reputation for customer services and a crap load of people here use them theyre a bit on the expensive side but from what i hear theyre defiantly worth it. i want a pair but this ram hasnt failed on me yet but probably will pick some up later









and fill in your system details, User CP, add system


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adk4200*


I currently have MEM 2Gx2|PAT DII800 PDC24G6400ELK and an Asus p5n-e 650i SLI

I run a CPU stability test and it told me it was unstable, ran memteat86+ and got 33k errors, BSOD all over the place, all points to RAM, should I RMA and get Patriot or return and get something else? The Patriot RAM is not on the QVL, and I'm wondering if that is the problem or if the board could be messed up. I could really use any help, thanks for anything!

Currently looking at OCZ Platinum Revision 2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory X2

I would like to get 4 GB at 2GB a stick, any suggestions on which one would be helpful.


I've said this so many times it's getting old. Did you correctly set your RAM timings and voltages? Leaving it on Auto causes instability.

For 2 x 2 GB RAM there are..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145184
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227248

The G-Skills are awesome.







I'm not sure how good they work with this board though; haven't seen anyone with them yet for this mobo. (I want some of G Skills myself)

The Corsair should work perfectly since I have the same thing but 2 x 1 GB.

Make sure you have a 64 bit Windows OS to get the full 4 GB. Or you'll only get 3.25 GB out of your 4.


----------



## adk4200

yes, My timings and voltages are set manually to what patriot suggests...

5-5-5-5-12 @ 2.013V

I did it about 6 hours ago and only got one blue screen with not message, I'm guessing it was from the Stress Test I aws doing, but i still get 33k+ errors from the memtest...

Thanks for any help!


----------



## tonedeaf

RA the ram if youre getting memtest errors


----------



## Procol

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
You don't need the BIOS set to boot from CD first, mine is set only to ever boot from the HDD, all you need to do is just hit F8 on start-up and pick the dvd-rom to boot from.

Okay thx for help i ran the memtest86 but i dont know where i see the error messages?

When i ran the program there were only lots of numbers etc^^

plz help me


----------



## sherpa_man

so if im looking at running 4 gig of ram it looks like im going to have to run 2x2 gig sticks what do we know will work on this board ?

g skill ?
kingston ?

i could do with model numbers cheers


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


Okay thx for help i ran the memtest86 but i dont know where i see the error messages?

When i ran the program there were only lots of numbers etc^^

plz help me


If the numbers you see are in red, then you've got a problem.


----------



## Procol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


If the numbers you see are in red, then you've got a problem.


Is it only if they are in red? or any other way to see


----------



## tom555

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


But what should I put in for my RAM timings?
Is this; 4-4-4-12? On other sites I saw they put in 5-5-5-15



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


It depends on the RAM, if you look at the sticker on the sticks of ram it'll tell you the timings that you should use for default settings.


First of all, let me tell you that I have 'standard'-RAM (yes I know, that's not really smart, certainly not when you're overclocking).

This is what the stickers say on both of my RAM-sticks:

1024Mb DDR2 800Mhz *CL5*

Is this enough information?

I also saw some letters and numbers on that sticker, but this was probably the serial number of the RAM-stick, because the numbers and letters didn't make much sense...


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


Is it only if they are in red? or any other way to see


http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?i...1277268ao6.jpg
That's what errors in memtest looks like (inlining my thumbnail's not working)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


1024Mb DDR2 800Mhz *CL5*
Is this enough information?


Should be. Go with 5-5-5-18 2T for the first 5 lines on the memory timings screen. 
I'm not sure what voltage you'd need that _should_ be on the sticker 1.8V to 2.2V


----------



## tom555

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hometoast* 
Should be. Go with 5-5-5-18 2T for the first 5 lines on the memory timings screen.
I'm not sure what voltage you'd need that _should_ be on the sticker 1.8V to 2.2V

No, there aren't any voltages on the sticker...
But shouldn't the timings be: 5-5-5-*15*
I'm just saying this because I saw this timing alot!
They always use: 4-4-4-12 or 5-5-5-15

Thanks already for helping


----------



## Procol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hometoast*


http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?i...1277268ao6.jpg
That's what errors in memtest looks like (inlining my thumbnail's not working)

Should be. Go with 5-5-5-18 2T for the first 5 lines on the memory timings screen. 
I'm not sure what voltage you'd need that _should_ be on the sticker 1.8V to 2.2V


Im still wondering a little about memtest.
How is it suppose to look when the program has checked ram and is rdy, cause on my screen when memtest has stopped doing whatever it is doing the scrren cuts in half and the other half of the screen is blue with some text on but there is only numbers and things no real results.
I don't see a list like the picture above

help plz


----------



## sherpa_man

if i have 2 memory sticks do i run them in slot a1 and a2 ?


----------



## adk4200

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
if i have 2 memory sticks do i run them in slot a1 and a2 ?

No, A1+A2=B1+B2

Easiest is if you have one in a yellow slot, the other should go in a yellow slot...


----------



## Procol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


Im still wondering a little about memtest.
How is it suppose to look when the program has checked ram and is rdy, cause on my screen when memtest has stopped doing whatever it is doing the scrren cuts in half and the other half of the screen is blue with some text on but there is only numbers and things no real results.
I don't see a list like the picture above

help plz


bump


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


Im still wondering a little about memtest.
How is it suppose to look when the program has checked ram and is rdy, cause on my screen when memtest has stopped doing whatever it is doing the scrren cuts in half and the other half of the screen is blue with some text on but there is only numbers and things no real results.
I don't see a list like the picture above

help plz


Umm. Can you take a picture of it with a camera? I haven't the foggiest of what's going on with your screen. Burn a Knoppix Live CD and run the memtest kernel off that -- it's exactly what I use. Does your memtest screen say anything like "Memtest86 v1.7"???


----------



## tom555

Ok, I have followed all the steps for for overclocking 'correctly' (adjust the correct voltages, frequencies, timings,...) but when I save my BIOS and restart my PC, it just shows my first screen where I can choose to press DEL for BIOS, and F2 for booting-options and thats it oO
I can't press anything and my PC just stalls!!
All fans are working, he doesn't give any error beeps, it just doens't get past the first screen :\\
When I restart my PC it gave the same, when I shut down the power, but it back on it gave the same thing.
What does this mean, and what am I doing wrong









Btw, I removed my battery, but it back in, and my settings were reset so my PC still works (pfew)

EDIT:

Maybe it might be interesting to tell you the settings I used to overclock:

NB PCIE Frequency: *100Mhz*

VCore Voltage: *1.35V*
Memory Voltage: *2.259V*
NB Core: *1.288V*
VCore Offset: *Auto*

FSB - Memory Clock: *Linked*
FSB - Memory Ratio: *Auto*
FSB (QDR), Mhz: *1352*
_(in grey)
Actual FSB (QDR), *1352.1*
Memory (DDR), Mhz: *Linked*
Actual Memory (DDR): *1014.1*_

tCL: *5*
tRCD: *5*
tRP: *5*
tRAS: *15*
CMD: *2 clocks*


----------



## texascbx

FSB - Memory Ratio: Auto
Try to set it to the 5.4 ratio and see what happens.


----------



## tom555

Quote:



Originally Posted by *texascbx*


FSB - Memory Ratio: Auto
Try to set it to the 5.4 ratio and see what happens.


I'm not going to try that, because this will get my memory-speed even higher!
I think the problem is the memory-speed, which is too high.

Any other suggestions? (frequencies, voltages,...)


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


Ok, I have followed all the steps for for overclocking 'correctly' (adjust the correct voltages, frequencies, timings,...) but when I save my BIOS and restart my PC, it just shows my first screen where I can choose to press DEL for BIOS, and F2 for booting-options and thats it oO
I can't press anything and my PC just stalls!!
All fans are working, he doesn't give any error beeps, it just doens't get past the first screen :
When I restart my PC it gave the same, when I shut down the power, but it back on it gave the same thing.
What does this mean, and what am I doing wrong









Btw, I removed my battery, but it back in, and my settings were reset so my PC still works (pfew)

EDIT:

Maybe it might be interesting to tell you the settings I used to overclock:

NB PCIE Frequency: *100Mhz*

VCore Voltage: *1.35V*
Memory Voltage: *2.259V*
NB Core: *1.288V*
VCore Offset: *Auto*

FSB - Memory Clock: *Linked*
FSB - Memory Ratio: *Auto*
FSB (QDR), Mhz: *1352*
_(in grey)
Actual FSB (QDR), *1352.1*
Memory (DDR), Mhz: *Linked*
Actual Memory (DDR): *1014.1*_

tCL: *5*
tRCD: *5*
tRP: *5*
tRAS: *15*
CMD: *2 clocks*



Your NB is too low. Raise it to the 1.4v one. Raise Vcore some more (you're safe until 1.5; of course you won't need that much. Watch temperatures) until you can boot into Windows. It's a Q6600 so you'll be lucky to be stable at 3.0 GHz. Unlink FSB and RAM. Run the RAM at 800 MHz.


----------



## tom555

But if I unlink, overclock the FSB, and let my memory stay at 800Mhz, doesn't that give any problems or bottlenecks?
If I use AI-tuning of Asus, when I overclock 20% (2.88Ghz CPU), my RAM is overclocked from 800 -> 920Mhz, so it is 3:2


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


But if I unlink, overclock the FSB, and let my memory stay at 800Mhz, doesn't that give any problems or bottlenecks?
If I use AI-tuning of Asus, when I overclock 20% (2.88Ghz CPU), my RAM is overclocked from 800 -> 920Mhz, so it is 3:2


Nope. At 3.0 GHz your FSB will be 333 MHz. Your RAM will be 400 MHz. The RAM will still be faster.


----------



## tom555

Ow yeah right! You have to devide it by 2, I forgot ^^
Will try it, thx already for the help

Btw, I don't get why AI-tuning setting overclocks my RAM to 920Mhz, if you say it isn't neccessairy...
What's the reason for this?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


Ow yeah right! You have to devide it by 2, I forgot ^^
Will try it, thx already for the help

Btw, I don't get why AI-tuning setting overclocks my RAM to 920Mhz, if you say it isn't neccessairy...
What's the reason for this?


For now, I think you should get your CPU stable before worrying about the RAM. You can tweak your RAM speed and timings later.

AI-Tuning shouldn't be used since it's just a estimate. All CPUs are different so it might not come out stable. If it does though, input the exact settings by yourself and you're good to go.

Make sure you run Prime 95 (4 instances for Quad) for at least 8 hours.


----------



## tom555

Ok, so what I'll do is:

- adjust my voltage of the NB to 1.4V
- adjust my voltage of the Core to +-1.4V
- unlink FSB and mem, and set mem to 800Mhz

My timings are 5-5-5-15, should I change this to auto?
When I use AI-tuning, and check my timings in CpuZ, I get very weird timings: 6-6-5-28 :\\


----------



## JerseyDubbin

no keep your timings you should always input manually with this board...auto normally wont' recognize the correct timing


----------



## tom555

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


no keep your timings you should always input manually with this board...auto normally wont' recognize the correct timing


Ok, so I'll input: 5-5-5-15 2clocks
Or do I need to put in another timing?
Cauz I don't really understand the meaning of all those different timings...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


Ok, so I'll input: 5-5-5-15 2clocks
Or do I need to put in another timing?
Cauz I don't really understand the meaning of all those different timings...


Go to your manufacturer's website or Newegg and find your RAM. It should list the timings to use and the voltage. Input them and don't change them for now.


----------



## tom555

Well that's the problem...
I have 'standard'-RAM + my 2 sticks aren't of the same brand, although they are in dual-channel...
The other brand is: V-data. But I can't really find this, but on some sites they say V-Data is the same as A-Data (







)

Edit:

Ok, on the site of Newegg I found the timings and voltages for the *PQI-stick*:
Timing 5-5-5-15 
Voltage 2.0V

This is for the *V(A)-Data-stick*: (also found on Newegg site)
Timing 5-5-5-18 
Voltage 2.0 - 2.1V

The timings are not the same, now what...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tom555* 
Well that's the problem...
I have 'standard'-RAM + my 2 sticks aren't of the same brand, although they are in dual-channel...
The other brand is: V-data. But I can't really find this, but on some sites they say V-Data is the same as A-Data (







)

Edit:

Ok, on the site of Newegg I found the timings and voltages for the *PQI-stick*:
Timing 5-5-5-15
Voltage 2.0V

This is for the *V(A)-Data-stick*: (also found on Newegg site)
Timing 5-5-5-18
Voltage 2.0 - 2.1V

The timings are not the same, now what...

Do 5-5-5-15-2T @ 2.0V (or as close as you can get to 2.0V)


----------



## tankman12

Well, got my new board and psu today and just got done putting everything together and updating. So far so good, but now I have to go to work. I will do some tweaking tomorrow and make sure everything is stable.


----------



## tom555

I used every setting you guys told me but it still stalls at the posting-screen








I tried all different kinds of other combinations; raised my voltage of my core to 1.45V, lowered to voltage of my mem, lowered FSB to 310, ... 
But they all give the same thing!!
So my PC starts up, all fans at max speed, the lights of my keybord blink 1 time, but then it freezes! I can't press any key, or do anything!

In the mean time, I have put everything back to stock, and overclocked everything piece by piece to see when it stalls.
When I just input the timings, there are no probs, but when I start raising the FSB or voltages, it freezes...

I also have another question (srry for all my problems







);
when I put everything back 2 stock, I checked CpuZ and I saw something strange under 'SPD'.
My RAM-timings were: 5-5-5-18 and the voltage *1.8V*?
Why is this so low (I can't even choose 1.8V in my BIOS, the lowest value is 1.95V), and why does it say 5-5-5-18 and not 15?
Here is a link so you can see it: http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7990/ramslotscb3.jpg
Also, should I manually input the tRC value? This is currently on auto.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

Hey guys just wondering. Is anyone running a wireless card on this and if so what cards would you recommend I'm looking for one that would be supported by both windows and linux

*Edit* Page 518 BABY!!!


----------



## tom555

can anyone help me plz...
I would really like to overclock my rig, but I have no idea how to solve my problems


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tom555*


I used every setting you guys told me but it still stalls at the posting-screen








I tried all different kinds of other combinations; raised my voltage of my core to 1.45V, lowered to voltage of my mem, lowered FSB to 310, ... 
But they all give the same thing!!
So my PC starts up, all fans at max speed, the lights of my keybord blink 1 time, but then it freezes! I can't press any key, or do anything!

In the mean time, I have put everything back to stock, and overclocked everything piece by piece to see when it stalls.
When I just input the timings, there are no probs, but when I start raising the FSB or voltages, it freezes...

I also have another question (srry for all my problems







);
when I put everything back 2 stock, I checked CpuZ and I saw something strange under 'SPD'.
My RAM-timings were: 5-5-5-18 and the voltage *1.8V*?
Why is this so low (I can't even choose 1.8V in my BIOS, the lowest value is 1.95V), and why does it say 5-5-5-18 and not 15?
Here is a link so you can see it: http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7990/ramslotscb3.jpg
Also, should I manually input the tRC value? This is currently on auto.


Put your RAM to 5-5-5-15-2T @ 1.95V

You'll just have to keep trying raising votlage or lowering it under stock to find what's stable. Quads don't work well with this board and I gave up on mine at 2.7 GHz after 15 hours of trying and resetting. Make sure your NB is at least the 1.4v one.


----------



## Gauvenator

tom555 what BIOS are you using? You should use 0608.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
tom555 what BIOS are you using? You should use 0608.

Think he is on 0608. Told him some posts back that most find it to be the most stable.


----------



## tom555

No, I'm using 0703. Works fine, don't have any problems with it.
I recently flashed it to 0801, but my BIOS kept on crashing for some reason so I had to 'downgrade' it back to 0703.

I have some good news , it finally works!
Seems like it doesn't clock any further than 2.88Ghz :\\ so AI-tuning (20%) of Asus hits the limit of this CPU with mobo too, as 20% is also 2.88Ghz...

But now the strange part: I have run 3DMark06 to check my scores (they should be higher, as you guys said that the AI-tuning option doens't really clock it to 2.88Ghz), but my score is lower by 200 points!?
When I put it back to AI-tuning 20%, BUT when I manually input my mem timings, my score gets all te sudden +600 points, compared with my score when I used AI-tuning with everything on auto!

So:
AI-tuning 20%: *13569*
Manual overclock to 2.88Ghz: *13305*
AI-tuning with manual timings: *14153*

These are very very strange scores, how can a manual input of timings give a +600points boost :\\
Btw, on AI-tuning my mem is overclocked from 800 -> 920Mhz


----------



## Gauvenator

I'm pretty sure this board uses very loose timings unless you enter them manually. That's probably why you're seeing such a boost.


----------



## cjb0511

I have been reading bits and pieces of this thread for a while but never posted. I figured I would tell my story of what I have done with my P5N-E SLI. I was stuck at 3ghz stable for a long time with just the Thermaltake V1 and 2gigs of Patriot DDR800. I happened to get 2gigs of crucial ballistix DDR1066 ram for free so I threw that in there to try to get it more stable past 3ghz in linked mode but that took me no where. I then added the northbridge, southbridge, and mosfet heatsinks and I also turned my CPU fan/heatsink in order to suck air directly across the northbridge heatsink. This got me to 3.375ghz as soon as I turned the computer on. I also adjusted my ram to 1000mhz to give a linked 3:2 ratio for the just in case extra stablilty. My Vcore is 1.4 +.100, NB auto, CPU Max temp 52C. Orthos stable for 8 hours and no game crashes for 2 days so far.


----------



## Asce

Blizzie, how does the V1 perform? Ive installed a few and have recommended them but cant remember how well they perform.


----------



## tankman12

Well guys, I have my 6550 up to 2.723 at 1.3875volts in bios, not sure why CPUZ is saying 1.238. Not too bad for my first try with some good overclocking hardware.


----------



## eta.aquarii

I've read lots of people have managed to overclock Core 2 Duo E2140 to 3GHz and more.
I have BIOS v0801 on my mobo and I can't push my E2140 any further than 2400MHz (rated FSB 1200Mhz).
I tried loads of combinations in BIOS but when I set the FSB over 1250 it just won't boot at all.








Any suggestions?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Blizzie, how does the V1 perform? Ive installed a few and have recommended them but cant remember how well they perform.


With my E6600 at 3.6 GHz with Vcore at 1.488v in BIOS I can achieve 44-46C under 100% of crunching with WCG. All my case fans on low, V1 fan on low, except 200 mm on top on high. Room temperature of 70 F.

Since I have to put my computer is the little slide in thing in my desk, the temperatures rise up to 52 C on load. I don't have a choice since there's no room around the table.. Has to go in it but I have a 6 C temperature rise. (I hope you know what I mean with the computer in the desk?)

Attached OCCT screenshots of temps under CPU/RAM test. One awesome cooler. I don't know how it performs in accordance with the Tuniq or Ultra 120. Fill me in Asce?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eta.aquarii*


I've read lots of people have managed to overclock Core 2 Duo E2140 to 3GHz and more.
I have BIOS v0801 on my mobo and I can't push my E2140 any further than 2400MHz (rated FSB 1200Mhz).
I tried loads of combinations in BIOS but when I set the FSB over 1250 it just won't boot at all.








Any suggestions?











Try downgrading your BIOS to 0608. It seems the most stable out of all of them. Have you tried lowering your multiplier to 7 instead?

What is your current Vcore for 2.4 GHz? And temperatures.


----------



## drfish

My board is running the 0202 BIOS... If I flash it to any version other than that when I try to change BIOS settings I get a big blank black screen after POST and it hangs forever (have to hit reset). If I don't hit del to get into the BIOS it POSTs and boots Windows fine. After half a dozen BIOSes from 0801 down to 0307 I'm back at 0202 and can get into the BIOS again... Any ideas???


----------



## Indignity

WOW!! After 6 months of reading this thread, I can finally post lol.. was stuck in some cycle where it wouldn't verify my registration

I just wanted to drop a note & say "Thank you" to all the contributors of this thread!!!! I love this board!

I do have one question though, How does this board do overclocking with 4 sticks of RAM? I already have 2x1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer PC2-8500, but couldn't resist THIS deal. Not worried about "underclocking" my current pair to have 4GB to play with









Thanks again!!!!!


----------



## sherpa_man

i want to run 4 gig of ram (2x2) on this board what do we know will work i need brand and model numer. many thanks


----------



## Indignity

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
i want to run 4 gig of ram (2x2) on this board what do we know will work i need brand and model numer. many thanks

Check the first & second posts on the first page.. there's a pretty complete list of brand/models of compatible RAM.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Indignity* 
WOW!! After 6 months of reading this thread, I can finally post lol.. was stuck in some cycle where it wouldn't verify my registration

I just wanted to drop a note & say "Thank you" to all the contributors of this thread!!!! I love this board!

I do have one question though, How does this board do overclocking with 4 sticks of RAM? I already have 2x1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer PC2-8500, but couldn't resist THIS deal. Not worried about "underclocking" my current pair to have 4GB to play with









Thanks again!!!!!

Do you mean overclocking the cpu with 4x1gb or the ram? I have 4x1gb and i've been able to OC my cpu fine. .Welcome to OCN!


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
With my E6600 at 3.6 GHz with Vcore at 1.488v in BIOS I can achieve 44-46C under 100% of crunching with WCG. All my case fans on low, V1 fan on low, except 200 mm on top on high. Room temperature of 70 F.

Since I have to put my computer is the little slide in thing in my desk, the temperatures rise up to 52 C on load. I don't have a choice since there's no room around the table.. Has to go in it but I have a 6 C temperature rise. (I hope you know what I mean with the computer in the desk?)

Attached OCCT screenshots of temps under CPU/RAM test. One awesome cooler. I don't know how it performs in accordance with the Tuniq or Ultra 120. Fill me in Asce?

From what i can remember, i was getting about 50Â°c load at a room temp of about 25Â°c. The reason im asking is that ive been selling a lot of V1's at work and wanted to know how well it performs.


----------



## eta.aquarii

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Try downgrading your BIOS to 0608. It seems the most stable out of all of them. Have you tried lowering your multiplier to 7 instead?

What is your current Vcore for 2.4 GHz? And temperatures.

I've downgraded the BIOS to 0608 using the EZ Flash tool and now it overclocks just fine. Excellent!








Thanks, Blizzie.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
My board is running the 0202 BIOS... If I flash it to any version other than that when I try to change BIOS settings I get a big blank black screen after POST and it hangs forever (have to hit reset). If I don't hit del to get into the BIOS it POSTs and boots Windows fine. After half a dozen BIOSes from 0801 down to 0307 I'm back at 0202 and can get into the BIOS again... Any ideas???

How are you flashing the BIOS? Try flashing in Windows instead if you're flashing froma floppy/USB or vice versa.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Indignity* 
WOW!! After 6 months of reading this thread, I can finally post lol.. was stuck in some cycle where it wouldn't verify my registration

I just wanted to drop a note & say "Thank you" to all the contributors of this thread!!!! I love this board!

I do have one question though, How does this board do overclocking with 4 sticks of RAM? I already have 2x1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer PC2-8500, but couldn't resist THIS deal. Not worried about "underclocking" my current pair to have 4GB to play with









Thanks again!!!!!

I don't think there's any problems with 4 GB of RAM. Try it and let us know.







Yup. Saw the Ballistix Tracers too; want to get them but I'm leaving for college in 8 months.. And I can't bring my desktops with me.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
i want to run 4 gig of ram (2x2) on this board what do we know will work i need brand and model numer. many thanks

Most of the RAM should work if they're known manufacturers. OCZ< Corsair, Crucial, G Skills, Kingston, etc. Go ahead and try.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Indignity* 
Check the first & second posts on the first page.. there's a pretty complete list of brand/models of compatible RAM.

The first and second page is outdated. dpawl.. don't know what happened to him.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
From what i can remember, i was getting about 50Â°c load at a room temp of about 25Â°c. The reason im asking is that ive been selling a lot of V1's at work and wanted to know how well it performs.

Ah okay. Just making sure. People choose the Tuniq over the V1 cause of price. I wasn't able to buy online before so I got the V1 from Fry's nearby. And I was afraid of the Tuniq breaking my mobo (since it was bowing so much) and falling (since I move my computer around a lot; friend's house, etc). So I thought V1 was a better choice, and I love it.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *eta.aquarii* 
I've downgraded the BIOS to 0608 using the EZ Flash tool and now it overclocks just fine. Excellent!








Thanks, Blizzie.


----------



## drfish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
My board is running the 0202 BIOS... If I flash it to any version other than that when I try to change BIOS settings I get a big blank black screen after POST and it hangs forever (have to hit reset). If I don't hit del to get into the BIOS it POSTs and boots Windows fine. After half a dozen BIOSes from 0801 down to 0307 I'm back at 0202 and can get into the BIOS again... Any ideas???

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
How are you flashing the BIOS? Try flashing in Windows instead if you're flashing froma floppy/USB or vice versa.



I'm flashing using EZ Flash from a thumbdrive (alt+f2)... I know the flashes are working because I was able to get back down to 0202... How do you flash from in Windows? That sounds scary...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
I'm flashing using EZ Flash from a thumbdrive (alt+f2)... I know the flashes are working because I was able to get back down to 0202... How do you flash from in Windows? That sounds scary...









Try flashing in Windows using the ASUS Update (install it from your motherboard CD). If not, then I would RMA the board or return it for an exchange.


----------



## drfish

Those aren't fun options.









I was hoping it was a common problem with an easy fix. I think I'll just try to be happy with my Q6600 running at 3Ghz. Thanks though!


----------



## drfish

Gah... Double post... This board is a little laggy...


----------



## mcogan10

can anyone help me out with setting my multiplier to 6x? every time i try to do so, it automatically sets it back to 8 for some reason, I've never been able to boot with it at 6x...thanks!


----------



## tonedeaf

unsync the memory, lower the fsb then lower the multiplier.
thats all i know so far. im not very experienced when it comes to multiplier settings


----------



## scollinguk

Hi There,

This is my first post, but it is to say thanks to all of you. Using the info on this thread i was able to overclock my very first computer properly and got what i consider to be a good overclock!

CPU-Z: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=291537

Great work guys, and keep it up.


----------



## Asce

Nice one. I found this board very easy to use for a first time overclocker. I know since this rig of mine is the first one ive overclocked and done a water cooling setup.


----------



## PimpYo

300FSB x 10 == 3000.0 Mhz

Processor runs 100% stable. Its weird that I have the vcore voltage set to 1.35 in the bios, yet in Core Temp and CPU-Z it shows as 1.28 and 1.26.

However as soon as I go over 3Ghz my prossessor fails OCCT. I have even tried putting the voltage up to 1.375 and 1.381 in the Bios, and still fails OCCT.

I am running unlinked so that I am only pushing my FSB and CPU so that I know my memory is the problem.

What should my northbridge voltage be set to? I is set to AUTO, but AUTO settings in my memory timings had completely screwed things up so I manually put in the settings.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PimpYo* 









300FSB x 10 == 3000.0 Mhz

Processor runs 100% stable. Its weird that I have the vcore voltage set to 1.35 in the bios, yet in Core Temp and CPU-Z it shows as 1.28 and 1.26.

However as soon as I go over 3Ghz my prossessor fails OCCT. I have even tried putting the voltage up to 1.375 and 1.381 in the Bios, and still fails OCCT.

I am running unlinked so that I am only pushing my FSB and CPU so that I know my memory is the problem.

What should my northbridge voltage be set to? I is set to AUTO, but AUTO settings in my memory timings had completely screwed things up so I manually put in the settings.

In Core Temp and CPU-Z the voltage for VCore is different because of vdroop. You may also wish to do a pencil mod (see Asce's signature for picture; one post above yours)

This board is known to fail to put Quads past 3.0 GHz. Read from here back a few pages.

Northbridge should be the 1.4v one. No higher than 1.5v. 1.7 should not be used, unless for benchmarking.


----------



## Blizzie

Has anyone been able to get their RAM to 900 MHz on this board? Struggling to reach that.. Thinking of getting some Ballistix Tracers to see if that's the problem.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...o-problem.html


----------



## cjb0511

Blizzie, I had patriot PC2-6400 in mine and I could never get it past 889 even with really high latencies. I then got 2 gigs of Ballistix PC2-8500 and ran them fine up to 1080 at default timing with no problems. I am running them currently at 1000mhz in 3:2 linked for extra stability but I was able to tweak the timings to 4-4-4-10


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cjb0511* 
Blizzie, I had patriot PC2-6400 in mine and I could never get it past 889 even with really high latencies. I then got 2 gigs of Ballistix PC2-8500 and ran them fine up to 1080 at default timing with no problems. I am running them currently at 1000mhz in 3:2 linked for extra stability but I was able to tweak the timings to 4-4-4-10

Hm, thank you for the info.
Still wondering if the Tracers would be able to overclock to 900 MHz.









My Corsairs are stable in stress test and memtest86 but when I reboot/turn computer on, POST screen only shows up on monitor 50% of the time. It boots though, since HDD light flashes, just nothing on monitor.


----------



## PimpYo

5-4-4-14 right now with my Corsair 8500C5 1066mhz.


----------



## brandon6199

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Has anyone been able to get their RAM to 900 MHz on this board? Struggling to reach that.. Thinking of getting some Ballistix Tracers to see if that's the problem.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...o-problem.html

I have my ram running at 900 mhz, in a 1:1 ratio with my fsb. (1800 QDR)

Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 @ 3.15 GHz, 450x7
OCZ Platinum DDR2 PC2-6400 @ 900 mhz, (overclocked from 800 mhz)

works perfectly fine for me


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
I have my ram running at 900 mhz, in a 1:1 ratio with my fsb. (1800 QDR)

Intel Core 2 Duo E6550 @ 3.15 GHz, 450x7
OCZ Platinum DDR2 PC2-6400 @ 900 mhz, (overclocked from 800 mhz)

works perfectly fine for me









Can I get your Vcore, Vdimm, NB voltage, and latency?


----------



## brandon6199

Vcore: 1.25v
Vdimm: 2.178v
NB Voltage: 1.393v
Latency: 4-4-4-12 2T, originally 4-4-4-15 2T


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
Vcore: 1.25v
Vdimm: 2.178v
NB Voltage: 1.393v
Latency: 4-4-4-12 2T, originally 4-4-4-15 2T










Thank you. Could be because your overclock isn't as heavy as mine. If I lower my overclock, my RAM can run 900 MHz easily. Going to try my OCZ Golds Rev2s.


----------



## drfish

Doing a little back reading in this thread... Am I really _that_ lucky to have a stable 3Ghz Q6600 running in this board???

Also, I've got my vcore at 1.5v and the +100mv option turned on (that option seems to have taken me from 99.9% to 100% stable). Is that safe 24/7 (I do [email protected])? My Ultra-120 is keeping things around 67-69ÂºC under load...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drfish*


Doing a little back reading in this thread... Am I really _that_ lucky to have a stable 3Ghz Q6600 running in this board???

Also, I've got my vcore at 1.5v and the +100mv option turned on (that option seems to have taken me from 99.9% to 100% stable). Is that safe 24/7 (I do [email protected])? My Ultra-120 is keeping things around 67-69ÂºC under load...


Why is your Vcore at 1.5v for a 600 MHz overclock?
And er.. 1.5v + 100 mv = 1.6v Vcore... Dude. You're going to fry your CPU.


----------



## drfish

CPU-Z only reports it using ~1.4v (~1.3v before I turned on the +100mv) or is that meaningless? I've got a B3 chip BTW, I read that it needed a little more voltage to get up there...

What should I need if 3Ghz is my goal?

Is adding the +100mv option really exactly the same and setting the vcore to 1.6v (if I'm already at 1.5 of course)? Somehow I thought it was different... It didn't raise my temps, etc...


----------



## SSJVegeta

Drop that vcore down from 1.6v. That's overkill and likely to fry your CPU in no time.


----------



## drfish

Dually noted.

So you're saying that vcore @ 1.4v plus +100mv has EXACTLY the same effect as just running vcore @ 1.5v?

Then why does the +100mv thing exist???


----------



## bangsboomstik

I own this mobo, and i got a EVGA 8800GT to throw in it because my old card ( the EVGA 7600GS) sucks nuts. Anyways, i throw it in, and the card sounds like its working, but no post. I thought I might have missed a cord somewhere or something, so i disconnected everything, and plugged everything back in, unfortunately, same results. So I took it over to a friends house (who also owns an 8800GT) to try and narrow down some of the possible things that were wrong, by trying his card in my system too. So, we put his card in (also an EVGA), and it does the exact same thing as my card, sounds like its working but no post. To make a long story short, we tinkered around with it for a while, and then for the heck of it decided to try and put both cards in, to make an SLI configuration. Then the strangest thing happened, it booted up perfectly. We have no clue on how it worked, and why one card wouldn't work. If anyone has any idea, it'd be nice if you could let me know.


----------



## Nixer

Is that little strip on the mobo between the vid card slots set to SLI instead of single card?

That's the only thing I can think of.


----------



## bangsboomstik

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nixer* 
Is that little strip on the mobo between the vid card slots set to SLI instead of single card?

That's the only thing I can think of.

no, its single, i checked it


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
Dually noted.

So you're saying that vcore @ 1.4v plus +100mv has EXACTLY the same effect as just running vcore @ 1.5v?

Then why does the +100mv thing exist???

I don't know why it exists. Rumor has it, it helps lower your vdroop. But I don't use it.

Quote:

I own this mobo, and i got a EVGA 8800GT to throw in it because my old card ( the EVGA 7600GS) sucks nuts. Anyways, i throw it in, and the card sounds like its working, but no post. I thought I might have missed a cord somewhere or something, so i disconnected everything, and plugged everything back in, unfortunately, same results. So I took it over to a friends house (who also owns an 8800GT) to try and narrow down some of the possible things that were wrong, by trying his card in my system too. So, we put his card in (also an EVGA), and it does the exact same thing as my card, sounds like its working but no post. To make a long story short, we tinkered around with it for a while, and then for the heck of it decided to try and put both cards in, to make an SLI configuration. Then the strangest thing happened, it booted up perfectly. We have no clue on how it worked, and why one card wouldn't work. If anyone has any idea, it'd be nice if you could let me know.

Quote:

Is that little strip on the mobo between the vid card slots set to SLI instead of single card?

That's the only thing I can think of.
What little strip are you talking about? Do you mean the Red SLI card? Make sure it's set to single video, not SLI video.


----------



## bangsboomstik

nvm, i got it all figured out, it wasn't the SLI card, it was something disabled on the mobo (dam ppl who built my computer), i set it to Auto, and it worked perfect, thx anyways guys


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drfish*


Dually noted.

So you're saying that vcore @ 1.4v plus +100mv has EXACTLY the same effect as just running vcore @ 1.5v?

Then why does the +100mv thing exist???


Its there to help the vcore mosfets to help reduce vdroop, but doing a pencil mod like Blizzie said helps even more. Without doing it i was able to get 3.2Ghz stable at 1.45v but now im at 1.4v, so it can be a big help.


----------



## drfish

So it's possible that if 3Ghz @ 1.5v isn't _quite_ stable for me, that if I went with 1.4v and turned on the +100mv it would be slightly better? And safer than going to 1.5125v or something?

Is 1.5v really all that much for a B3 Q6600 @ 3Ghz... My temps seem ok...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
So it's possible that if 3Ghz @ 1.5v isn't _quite_ stable for me, that if I went with 1.4v and turned on the +100mv it would be slightly better? And safer than going to 1.5125v or something?

Is 1.5v really all that much for a B3 Q6600 @ 3Ghz... My temps seem ok...

If using 1.4 vcore with the +100mv = 1.5v helps you then go for it.
3.0 Ghz is achievable using stock voltage... Why are you at 1.5v? I guess I can't say much since this board doesn't like Quads.

Since you have the B3 stepping as long as your temperatures are lower than 60C then you're fine.


----------



## drfish

CoreTemp is steady a 63Âº for two of the cores and 57Âº for the other two...

I'll make sure this is 100% stable first, then I'll lower my vcore 0.125v at a time until something breaks.









Thanks for your help!


----------



## drfish

1.35 vcore +100mv seems to be "just right" temps are ~59Âº and 3Ghz is [email protected]+TF2 stable for over an hour...


----------



## PimpYo

where is this +100mv thing everyone is talking about?


----------



## Rapid_Eraser

Guys don't forget this motherboard has a HUGE Vdroop over 0,1v with a Quad.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rapid_Eraser* 
Guys don't forget this motherboard has a HUGE Vdroop over 0,1v with a Quad.

Just pencil mod it and you have next to no vdroop...


----------



## PimpYo

Link to pencil mod tutorial?


----------



## Hedera

First, thanks to everyone. I'm new to this, and this forum is invaluable.

Second, what temp ranges are acceptable for the NB? Can the stock Asus HS keep up w/ 1.563 NB voltage? I know 1.748 is out of the question.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PimpYo*


Link to pencil mod tutorial?












heres the picture, if you've never done it before definitely find a guide as to how you do it carefully.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hedera*


First, thanks to everyone. I'm new to this, and this forum is invaluable.

Second, what temp ranges are acceptable for the NB? Can the stock Asus HS keep up w/ 1.563 NB voltage? I know 1.748 is out of the question.


Just reseat the NB cooler with AS5 and it'll be fine for 1.563V, if your worried about it getting abit warm just point a fan towards it.


----------



## PimpYo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*











heres the picture, if you've never done it before definitely find a guide as to how you do it carefully.


I dont even know what I'm looking for in that pic. Thats why I asked for a link to a guide, please. Googling for a guide just lead me in circles. No pun intended.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hedera*


First, thanks to everyone. I'm new to this, and this forum is invaluable.

Second, what temp ranges are acceptable for the NB? Can the stock Asus HS keep up w/ 1.563 NB voltage? I know 1.748 is out of the question.


Do not go past 1.563v on the NB. You may use 1.748v, only for benchmarking purposes; I personally would not use that high of a voltage. I have mine at 1.5v with a 40mm fan attached to it. I also reapplied Arctic Silver 5 instead of that junk that it comes with.

By using ASUS Probe my "MB" temperature is 31C. I've seen some people with temps of 38-40C. Not sure how hot it can get. Attach a fan on it to make sure.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PimpYo*


I dont even know what I'm looking for in that pic. Thats why I asked for a link to a guide, please. Googling for a guide just lead me in circles. No pun intended.


Under the CPU Fan plug you see a resistor that's marked in yellow. You take a pencil (I used a HB 2) and slowly shade it. Boot into BIOS and check your voltage under load. Keep shading it more and more until your load voltage is the same as your BIOS voltage. Be cautious though, if you overshade, you may overvolt your CPU.


----------



## MaKe OuT

Question about overvolting...I have not done any modding including the pencil mod. I have latest version of bios i believe its 0801. I set my cpu voltage to 1.356 in bios and speedfan and cpu-z are showing 1.38V and 1.376V respectively. am i overvolting? is this a problem? what is my true vcore?


----------



## sherpa_man

what can you get a q6600 up to on stock cooling ?


----------



## MaKe OuT

i couldnt get my q6600 past 2.9GHz on this board. dont forget to get something better than stock cooling for your cpu and NB, and maybe add a HS atleast for SB.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT* 
Question about overvolting...I have not done any modding including the pencil mod. I have latest version of bios i believe its 0801. I set my cpu voltage to 1.356 in bios and speedfan and cpu-z are showing 1.38V and 1.376V respectively. am i overvolting? is this a problem? what is my true vcore?

You are overvolted for some reason. Take some isopropyl alcohol and wipe the area around that vdroop mod resistor. Refer to the picture, it's marked off in yellow under the CPU Fan connector. Many people have found BIOS 0608 as the most stable.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
what can you get a q6600 up to on stock cooling ?

I was not able to get my Quad past 2.7 GHz. The 650i chipset doesn't work well with Quads. You won't have a temperature problem at all since it won't overclock high enough.


----------



## MaKe OuT

ok. i set my vcore to 1.25V and added the +100mV hoping to reduce vdroop for a total of 1.35V...cpuz says 1.36V and speedfan says 1.36V. is overvolting by 10mV a big deal? what are the consequences of me doing nothing?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT*


ok. i set my vcore to 1.25V and added the +100mV hoping to reduce vdroop for a total of 1.35V...cpuz says 1.36V and speedfan says 1.36V. is overvolting by 10mV a big deal? what are the consequences of me doing nothing?



I think its more that those programs aren't reading it properly, go into the bios hardware monitor place and see what it says as the Vcore there.


----------



## jdogzilla

Hello all, I recently added a new heatsink to my NB as well as a new cooler to the CPU. When I restarted the computer, it would not post any more. There was a slight burning smell at the beginning. I shut off the computer for a while and restarted, and it does not post anymore. I removed one of the two RAM modules I had just to keep it simple, but that didn't help either. Is my MOBO hosed? Or should I try setting up everything again? What are my options? Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## jdogzilla

Hello all, I recently added a new heatsink to my NB as well as a new cooler to the CPU. When I restarted the computer, it would not post any more. There was a slight burning smell at the beginning. I shut off the computer for a while and restarted, and it does not post anymore. I removed one of the two RAM modules I had just to keep it simple, but that didn't help either. Is my MOBO hosed? Or should I try setting up everything again? What are my options? Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## MaKe OuT

can you explain more about the type of HS you put on the NB...model number or name and make? any other changes made between last successful post and now that you didnt mention?


----------



## jdogzilla

For the NB, I put in the Thermalright HR-05-SLI/IFX heatsink. On the CPU, I put the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro fan. On the SB, I put a Zalman heatsink.

I also put some Zalman heatsinks on the mosfets on the MB. I used Arctic silver for the NB and SB, and the CPU fan came with a layer of thermal grease pre-applied.

No other changes - hardware or software.


----------



## jdogzilla

Also, by any chance, could it be the CPU? How can I tell if the CPU is busted?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdogzilla* 
Also, by any chance, could it be the CPU? How can I tell if the CPU is busted?

Does it beep at all? Is your video card fully in the PCIE slow? Extra power connector on the video card plugged in? Do the fans spin up at all when you hit the power button?


----------



## jdogzilla

Fans spin up OK ... but it DOES NOT beep. Video card was working well till last boot and is pretty fast. The lights on the 2 attached ATA DVD drives keep flashing - and the drives wont eject.


----------



## Indignity

I'd suggest you clear your CMOS. Turn off the power to the power supply at the back and remove the 1.5V battery by pushing down on the little retainer clip. Once you've done that, press the power button to remove any charge that might be left in the capacitors.

Place the battery back into the retainer, turn on the PSU & power it on. Press delete to enter the BIOS & set the timings/voltage for your memory manually. Leave everything else as is & reboot... hopefully, you'll end up in Windows.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdogzilla*


Fans spin up OK ... but it DOES NOT beep. Video card was working well till last boot and is pretty fast. The lights on the 2 attached ATA DVD drives keep flashing - and the drives wont eject.


This motherboard has no speakers. You will not hear any beeps unless your case has one you connect to the motherboard.


----------



## PimpYo

Wow!

Just upgraded by bios to 0801 from 0703.

In bios I set my Vcore to 1.325 + 100mv

In bios it shows up as 1.365

In CPU-Z it shows up as 1.408

When I run OCCT (100% CPU) CPU-Z shows 1.328

What the F*** is going on?


----------



## jdogzilla

OK, I reset the CMOS ... it beeps now, the screen comes on, and the keyboard and mouse get power for a split second, and then the screen freezes as it tries to get into the BIOS. Any suggestions?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PimpYo*


Wow!

Just upgraded by bios to 0801 from 0703.

In bios I set my Vcore to 1.325 + 100mv

In bios it shows up as 1.365

In CPU-Z it shows up as 1.408

When I run OCCT (100% CPU) CPU-Z shows 1.328

What the F*** is going on?


You have a really bad vdroop. When under load the voltage drops. Do the pencil mod and try dropping to BIOS 0608.

Note: In BIOS your CPU is actually under about 80% load


----------



## PimpYo

Well by dropping the BIOS to 0608 now I can do 3.2Ghz stable.

No one should even waste their time with anything besides 0608.


----------



## MaKe OuT

why should i use 0608 vs 0801? my 0801 seems to work fine but i havent tried to push the limits of my OC yet. I will be pushing 3.6MHz later this week and I would like to know more about why which version is better than another. anyone can help me?


----------



## PimpYo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT*


why should i use 0608 vs 0801? my 0801 seems to work fine but i havent tried to push the limits of my OC yet. I will be pushing 3.6MHz later this week and I would like to know more about why which version is better than another. anyone can help me?


With my Q6700 my system would freak out when OCing over 3.0ghz. using 0703 and 0801.

With 0608 I have done 3.2ghz stable.


----------



## jdogzilla

Is it possible that I could have shorted my Mobo? remember that I mentioned that the first time I started it with the new fan, I got a burning smell. That could have been because I put a couple more pins at the back between the Mobo and the chassis, thinking they would give the Mobo more support. I should have just used the 6 that are required between the Mobo and the chasis.

How can I determine if it is the CPU that is busted?


----------



## MaKe OuT

pins, you mean standoffs? if so, standoffs would not short anything that shouldnt be shorted.


----------



## SSJVegeta

So is BIOS 0608 better than 0401?


----------



## Indignity

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdogzilla*


OK, I reset the CMOS ... it beeps now, the screen comes on, and the keyboard and mouse get power for a split second, and then the screen freezes as it tries to get into the BIOS. Any suggestions?


What slots do you have your RAM in & can you try just one stick in the first slot & see if it'll boot.. if no, then try second slot, ect... then if that doesn't work, try the second stick & repeat the above process. It could be bad RAM.. I had it happen once already & was the same symptom.

Smells can come from anything.. you have a box full of electronic items. Having been doing PC repair for ~ 10 years now, it's pretty rare to blow your mobo, but it does happen.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdogzilla* 
Is it possible that I could have shorted my Mobo? remember that I mentioned that the first time I started it with the new fan, I got a burning smell. That could have been because I put a couple more pins at the back between the Mobo and the chassis, thinking they would give the Mobo more support. I should have just used the 6 that are required between the Mobo and the chasis.

How can I determine if it is the CPU that is busted?

You should take those extra pins out. They're probably shorting the mobo. Only use the ones that align with the screw holes on the mobo.

With any luck the short didn't damage anything.

As far as telling if the CPU is broken, just put it in another mobo and fire it up.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


So is BIOS 0608 better than 0401?


Hehehe.

Yep. In every way I've found.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Hehehe.

Yep. In every way I've found.

I've noticed in your specs your P5N-E is a "rev A2". So there are different versions of this board? Mine says "Rev. 1.01g".


----------



## gooddog

803 posted on ftp.asus.com navigate to P5N-E via MB (for motherboard).

pub - asus - mb - p5n-e or something like that.

any luck in using it for Q6600 overclocking?

it doesn't say what this addresses


----------



## jskibum

Hey everyone,

My first post here, thanks for all the experimenting that's been going on. I just got this Asus board and think I should up the values a bit to see what it will do. I haven't had a new PC in about 4 years, my current box is running AMD XP 1900+ so this should be a nice upgrade! It reconverts video so fast at stock that it's scary, I'm willing to be terrified.

If anyone would like to give me some starting values, that would be appreciated. I read through about 200 pages of this thread so I have some ideas already and I copy/pasted many of the tips to a sheet for reference. I suppose BIOS version to use would be the starting point and we can go from there.

Thanks in advance.

Ski


----------



## jdogzilla

I removed all the extra pins on the back of the board. I tested the memory modules individually in each of the 4 slots, and now I'm back to where it won't even post anymore. Any other suggestions, or should I go ahead and order a new board from newegg or ebay?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jskibum*


Hey everyone,

My first post here, thanks for all the experimenting that's been going on. I just got this Asus board and think I should up the values a bit to see what it will do. I haven't had a new PC in about 4 years, my current box is running AMD XP 1900+ so this should be a nice upgrade! It reconverts video so fast at stock that it's scary, I'm willing to be terrified.

If anyone would like to give me some starting values, that would be appreciated. I read through about 200 pages of this thread so I have some ideas already and I copy/pasted many of the tips to a sheet for reference. I suppose BIOS version to use would be the starting point and we can go from there.

Thanks in advance.

Ski


It's too early to be thinking for me.. *about to leave for school*

As you probably know already, start off with BIOS 0608. You should be able to get that CPU of yours to at least 3.4 GHz, if not more, depending on heat.

Experiment on your own and keep booting in Windows every 100 or 50 MHz until you can't successfuly. Then go back and adjust voltages. Make sure Northbridge is no higher than 1.5 (You probably won't need 1.5; dependings on how far you want to get). Give us some values to work with as you experiment.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdogzilla*


I removed all the extra pins on the back of the board. I tested the memory modules individually in each of the 4 slots, and now I'm back to where it won't even post anymore. Any other suggestions, or should I go ahead and order a new board from newegg or ebay?


Go ahead and RMA back to Newegg. Make sure you've checked your RAM.

Will it not boot at all on stock settings after resetting CMOS?

Quote:



803 posted on ftp.asus.com navigate to P5N-E via MB (for motherboard).

pub - asus - mb - p5n-e or something like that.

any luck in using it for Q6600 overclocking?

it doesn't say what this addresses


I thought 0803 was out for a while now; I might be wrong. Perhaps it's out of Beta. Either way, we won't know until someone tests.


----------



## Shojeel

Hello all! It is nice to find a thread that is dedicated to this board. I recieved my board about three weeks ago installed it and it is up and running. I added an Extreme Spirit coller to the NB and the hr05 SLI-IFX to the SB. So now a little about my troubles...........

As you can see from my system it is a work in progress. I bought the computer about 3 years ago and it is kind of out dated now. I am running a P$ 3.6 ghz CPU and a really out of date GPU. Other than that though almost everything is brand new. So I booted up and started prime95. It ran all night and when I woke up my screen was black and I couldn't get it to come back to life. I rebooted and everything looked fine. I am curious as to what happened though.

So besides that I figured everything was fine and decided to begin my first OC. I entered the BIOS and manually entered my memory timings of 4-4-4-12. Saved and booted. Seemed fine. Went back to the bios and changed the JMPRCongif (or what ever it is labeled) to manual, then proceeded to change my FSB. I kept the FSB and memory linked. So i pushed and pushed bumping by 5-10 points per reboot starting from 800. I got it to 850 and then the problems began. I got the BSOD (blue screen of death) just before post.

So I can get it to 3.8 ghz from 3.6 but I think I can get it past that, right? What else can I do to make this more stable? I am unsure about the voltages being new at this, I am afraid I will over volt somthing and fry it. Any help would be appreciated and please ask any questions that you can think of. Thanks.









Oh also sometimes at 3.8 OC I can post but I can not use my mouse. WEIRD!

***? So i go home and update the BIOS to version 0608 and now PCprobe does not see my CPU fan or my NB fan. I can see that they are running. I rebbot to get into the BIOS and now I can't get into the BIOS it just gives me a black screen. Any suggestions?


----------



## jdogzilla

I've had the system running smoothly for 9 months now. Can I still RMA it to Newegg, or should I be sending it back to ASUS? Also, am I still covered if I have removed the NB?

Even after resetting CMOS, it does not post, and the few times it did post, it did not allow me to go beyond the first screen into the Setup screen (Delete button did nothing).


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jdogzilla*


I've had the system running smoothly for 9 months now. Can I still RMA it to Newegg, or should I be sending it back to ASUS? Also, am I still covered if I have removed the NB?

Even after resetting CMOS, it does not post, and the few times it did post, it did not allow me to go beyond the first screen into the Setup screen (Delete button did nothing).


I'm not sure about Newegg/Asus as I've never bought from Newegg, but you are allowed to remove the NB, it doesn't void the warranty, however I would advise putting the stock one back on because if you do ship it with a after market cooler, you won't get it back.


----------



## texascbx

I flashed to the new Bios. Never could even boot over 3.0Ghz, here I am at 3.5Ghz. My vcore is at 1.5 so I'm going to try and lower it till it gets unstable.

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=295002


----------



## stumped

you can't rma to newegg, but asus is still available. just put the stock everything (including the little plastic cap as they might reject if not charge you for a new cap) back on. Then you can rma.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shojeel*


Hello all! It is nice to find a thread that is dedicated to this board. I recieved my board about three weeks ago installed it and it is up and running. I added an Extreme Spirit coller to the NB and the hr05 SLI-IFX to the SB. So now a little about my troubles...........

As you can see from my system it is a work in progress. I bought the computer about 3 years ago and it is kind of out dated now. I am running a P$ 3.6 ghz CPU and a really out of date GPU. Other than that though almost everything is brand new. So I booted up and started prime95. It ran all night and when I woke up my screen was black and I couldn't get it to come back to life. I rebooted and everything looked fine. I am curious as to what happened though.

So besides that I figured everything was fine and decided to begin my first OC. I entered the BIOS and manually entered my memory timings of 4-4-4-12. Saved and booted. Seemed fine. Went back to the bios and changed the JMPRCongif (or what ever it is labeled) to manual, then proceeded to change my FSB. I kept the FSB and memory linked. So i pushed and pushed bumping by 5-10 points per reboot starting from 800. I got it to 850 and then the problems began. I got the BSOD (blue screen of death) just before post.

So I can get it to 3.8 ghz from 3.6 but I think I can get it past that, right? What else can I do to make this more stable? I am unsure about the voltages being new at this, I am afraid I will over volt somthing and fry it. Any help would be appreciated and please ask any questions that you can think of. Thanks.









Oh also sometimes at 3.8 OC I can post but I can not use my mouse. WEIRD!

***? So i go home and update the BIOS to version 0608 and now PCprobe does not see my CPU fan or my NB fan. I can see that they are running. I rebbot to get into the BIOS and now I can't get into the BIOS it just gives me a black screen. Any suggestions?


That means you're not stable. You have to stress test with Orthos, Prime 95, or OCCT for stability. I like running mine for 12 hours to test.

For your black screen problem. Reset the CMOS by removing the battery and moving the jumper over, then back. Replace the battery and boot it up. What method did you use for flashing?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stumped*


you can't rma to newegg, but asus is still available. just put the stock everything (including the little plastic cap as they might reject if not charge you for a new cap) back on. Then you can rma.


ASUS support team is horrible. Consider yourself lucky if you get an RMA.


----------



## instinct28

Hey guyz. So glad I'm not the only that haz a P5n-E SLI. And needs help.

FSB and Mem is @ 1067mhz unlinked but can not go from 9 to 10 on Multi.

I set multi to 10 and save and exit, reboot and same 2.4ghz.

Go back in bios and it's 9 again?

Thanks...

Mushkin Extream 2x1gig ram
Antec 850 Truepower Quattro
evga 8800gts 320
Intel Silent Whisper CPU Cooler
ZALMAN zm-nb47j on order for SB


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *instinct28*


Hey guyz. So glad I'm not the only that haz a P5n-E SLI. And needs help.

FSB and Mem is @ 1067mhz unlinked but can not go from 9 to 10 on Multi.

I set multi to 10 and save and exit, reboot and same 2.4ghz.

Go back in bios and it's 9 again?

Thanks...

Mushkin Extream 2x1gig ram
Antec 850 Truepower Quattro
evga 8800gts 320
Intel Silent Whisper CPU Cooler


The multiplier on any NON-Extreme version is always locked upwards, you can only choose lower, you can only use 9, 8, 7, ... etc, no one with a q6600 can use a 10x multiplier


----------



## MaKe OuT

Looking for suggestions as I am hanging when windows loads.
Here is where I am:
1.55Vcore
415.5MHz fsb, multiplier of 9
833MHz ddr2, this gives fsb:dram ratio of 1:1
2.18Vram
NB is 1.56V
memory timings are 4-4-4-12, command rate is 2T and the rest are set to auto.
I have disabled everything that I am not using in the BIOS.

I set the core, memory, and NB voltages high purposely to try to get this thing to boot but no success.

Another issue:
I set my system to:
Vcore 1.3V+100mV=1.4V with a Vdroop of .055V
fsb 400MHz multi of 9 = 3.6GHz
ram is 800MHz and fsb:dram is 1:1
Vram is 1.92V
ram timings 4-4-4-12, 2T
1.39V on NB

I ran OCCT on the 30min test and stable. Any suggestions on tweaking these settings?


----------



## instinct28

Ok. Not having much luck upping the FSB past 1080.

thanks pheoxs.


----------



## MaKe OuT

can you go and edit your system under profile so we can see what you have under the hood? atleast tell us the processor. so you cant get past 1080? Maybe you have ran into a hole. If you do some reading around you will see that all mobo's have fsb "hole's" and what you can do is put the fsb up past 1080 little by little. from what i've seen is a hole shouldn't be too large. so maybe you have a hole from 1080MHz to 1110MHz for example. if that were the case, you should be able to get booted after 1110MHz.


----------



## PimpYo

1.55Vcore will melt your Q6600 or Q6700.


----------



## MaKe OuT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PimpYo* 
1.55Vcore will melt your Q6600 or Q6700.

over time yes, but i am running E6850 and 1.55Vcore will not melt it while I am trying a Max OC. Hell, I know a guy who is running 3.8GHz on 1.55Vcore and his is just fine. May run a bit hot but not over the max of 72C.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT* 
over time yes, but i am running E6850 and 1.55Vcore will not melt it while I am trying a Max OC. Hell, I know a guy who is running 3.8GHz on 1.55Vcore and his is just fine. May run a bit hot but not over the max of 72C.

Most people don't suggest over 1.5V, let alone most water coolers don't even use 1.55V ...


----------



## MaKe OuT

I understand its not suggested. Do you have any advice other than 1.5Vcore that can help me?

I bumed the Vcore to 1.45V. It passed 30min test on Orthos. I had a Vdroop of about .06V YIKES! Load temps got to 55C.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT*


Looking for suggestions as I am hanging when windows loads.
Here is where I am:
1.55Vcore
415.5MHz fsb, multiplier of 9
833MHz ddr2, this gives fsb:dram ratio of 1:1
2.18Vram
NB is 1.56V
memory timings are 4-4-4-12, command rate is 2T and the rest are set to auto.
I have disabled everything that I am not using in the BIOS.

I set the core, memory, and NB voltages high purposely to try to get this thing to boot but no success.

Another issue:
I set my system to:
Vcore 1.3V+100mV=1.4V with a Vdroop of .055V
fsb 400MHz multi of 9 = 3.6GHz
ram is 800MHz and fsb:dram is 1:1
Vram is 1.92V
ram timings 4-4-4-12, 2T
1.39V on NB

I ran OCCT on the 30min test and stable. Any suggestions on tweaking these settings?


You could be in an fsb hole at 415.5. Try 450 instead...and lower voltages, those are pretty high.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT*


I understand its not suggested. Do you have any advice other than 1.5Vcore that can help me?

I bumed the Vcore to 1.45V. It passed 30min test on Orthos. I had a Vdroop of about .06V YIKES! Load temps got to 55C.


Pencil mod it, the pictures a few pages back + tutorials in the motherboard volt mod section of the site, that way you can bring down the Vcore, if your set at 1.45V and drooping down to say 1.39V.

after the mod you could be running it at 1.4V thus being much nicer to your proc and in turn it shall reward you by overclocking easily to past 9ghz on stock air cooling


----------



## instinct28

Ok MaKe OuT.LOL. Here is what I've got


----------



## MaKe OuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *instinct28*


Ok MaKe OuT.LOL. Here is what I've got


GJ. ok i used to have the Q6600 before i swapped it for what i have now. I also happen to have the same mobo. Let me tell you that this mobo OC's quads like **** for lack of better term. I could get mine to 2.9GHz on less than stock voltage. however, I couldnt get passed this point. I hear that if you flash bios to version 0608, then you can get passed 3GHz. so at 1080fsb or whatever you are, you are just above the stock speed of 1066 i believe. weird to have a hole there...you should be able to OC to where i was by simply leaving your voltages to auto. you should also underclock your ram for a fsb:dram of 1:1. this can help.


----------



## instinct28

Yeah, it is weard. If I link @ 1:1. No post with fsb @ 1100 and mem @ 880.

Oh well.


----------



## MaKe OuT

no no, do not link. unlink it and run it at 1:1. i think i posted at 1288MHz fsb. i kept my ram at 644MHz on that.


----------



## Shojeel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
That means you're not stable. You have to stress test with Orthos, Prime 95, or OCCT for stability. I like running mine for 12 hours to test.

For your black screen problem. Reset the CMOS by removing the battery and moving the jumper over, then back. Replace the battery and boot it up. What method did you use for flashing?

I used the USB and EZflash. I have been reading other places to try and do it from the floppy as well as go to 0402 since I am using XP. Does that sound right?


----------



## funkykid

hi there my names steven i have just joined this forum looks good, could yous please help me i have bought a new rig with this motherboard P5N E-SLI the quad core q6600 chip and this memory Corsair 4x1GB TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX PC2-6400 / 800Mhz 4-4-4-12 Timings i really want to overclock it but i dont have a clue where to start could some 1 please help many thanks


----------



## tankman12

Quote:


Originally Posted by *funkykid* 
hi there my names steven i have just joined this forum looks good, could yous please help me i have bought a new rig with this motherboard P5N E-SLI the quad core q6600 chip and this memory Corsair 4x1GB TWIN2X2048-6400C4DHX PC2-6400 / 800Mhz 4-4-4-12 Timings i really want to overclock it but i dont have a clue where to start could some 1 please help many thanks










Funky..first off go here and put in your sytem specs. Makes for a much cleaner post.

Read the first page in these thread as theres alot of info there concerning these boards, bios versions, etc. Main thing when oc'ing is to take slow and easy and take baby steps. Theres some things you need to setup in Bios before you start overclocking and that is listed in the first post as well.

After reading that, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Copied from the Post #3,

Quote:

Tips and Hints:
Any help would be appreciated: Please PM dpawl31 (me!) with any suggestions!
(Overclocking options can be found under JUMPERFREE Configuration-->MANUAL)

If you haven't already, check your BIOS and make sure you are running 03** series bios or higher. 0202 was first release and VERY flaky.
Enter RAM timings and voltage manually. Helps stability.
Disable all features not neccessary, ie firewire, if you run all SATA drives, disable IDE channels... etc.
Run Orthos or OCCT for 6+ hours at all stock settings to test for stabilty at stock, to make sure everything is OK at the norm. This will help you to not blame your OC for stability problems, such as forgetting to set your RAM timings and having the auto timings cause a failed OC.
FSB and RAM are already finalized values. Intel chips are QUAD pumped (QDR) and RAM is DDR. For example, if you have an 800FSB rated chip, your REAL FSB is 200Mhz (What CPUZ will display) but will display as 800FSB in BIOS. Same with RAM, but it is DUAL, so DDR2-800 RAM will display as 800 in BIOS, but 400Mhz in CPUZ.
When overclocking, run a 1:1 divider for stability. This can be achieved by using UNLINKED mode and MANUALLY entering 1:1 values, ie 1000FSB and 500DDR, or you can choose LINKED-->SYNC Mode to run a 1:1 divider.
AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.
To find your MAX CPU overclock without overclocking RAM, to eliminate it as the cause of a failed overclock, use full UNLINKED mode, to allow you to manually set your RAM to its full speed without overclocking it. This will allow you to UP the FSB as much as you need.


----------



## funkykid

thanks for the quick reply mate ill have a look through this stuff you sent if i have any ?s ill be sure to contact you thanks again


----------



## namatoki

Hey all,

I've owned my system for about 6 months now, but I finally decided to see if I can get some help with it. It runs pretty well now, but I occasionally get some weird lock ups. I used to have an Antec Sonata case, but I recently upgraded to the Antec 900. I was having some heat issues with the northbridge even with the Thermaltake Spirit that I replaced the stock heat sink with. Anyway, I would like some pointers on what I should check. Thanks!


----------



## namatoki

Hey all,

I've owned my system for about 6 months now, but I finally decided to see if I can get some help with it. It runs pretty well now, but I occasionally get some weird lock ups. I used to have an Antec Sonata case, but I recently upgraded to the Antec 900. I was having some heat issues with the northbridge even with the Thermaltake Spirit that I replaced the stock heat sink with. But with the new case, the temps seem to be a lot better. Anyway, I would like some pointers on what I should check. Thanks!


----------



## tankman12

Is it oc'ed at all? If it is, you might want to run Orthos to make sure your oc is stable. If it isnt, I would run Orthos anyway but I would also run Memtest to make sure your ram is ok.


----------



## namatoki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tankman12*


Is it oc'ed at all? If it is, you might want to run Orthos to make sure your oc is stable. If it isnt, I would run Orthos anyway but I would also run Memtest to make sure your ram is ok.


Thanks for the reply. Sorry about the double post there.









My CPU is slightly overclocked, I have it at 1200MHz and my memory is actually running at 400MHz instead of the 500MHz that it is supposed to be rated for. I have pretty tight timings (4-4-4-12) I think. I've run Orthos for a few hours without problems. I guess I'll try Memtest again.


----------



## tankman12

Maybe loosen your timing alittle. Run them at 2T if you arent already. Might help with stability. Also, try bumping your vcore up a notch and see if that helps.

I am still new at this. I will try to offer what little bit I have gathered from reading this thread.


----------



## AeroWolf86

hey folks, my roommate updated his bios to the latest version and now one of two things happens...

1. os starts to load but the system freezes
2. os loads successfully but then freezes almost immediately

tried rolling back bios but it won't let us and says that the older bios "isn't sufficient"

i tried resetting the cmos to no avail...any ideas??? thx in advance

Edit: sorry, he's running xp pro on c2d 2.13ghz


----------



## instinct28

MaKe OuT or any one. My RAM will run @ 1067mhz with my FSB @ 1098 max.

Question. What is better, to run my RAM fast and CPU slow or CPU fast and RAM slow?

It would be nice to run both fast I know. But I can't seem to.

Thanks to you all for the awesome HELP!


----------



## namatoki

I'd like to know too. Right now, my ratio is 3:4 with FSB at 1200MHz and RAM at 800MHz. Would it be better to drop my RAM to 600MHz to get 1:1? I tried bumping my FSB to 1600MHz, but was getting too many instability issues.


----------



## instinct28

It don't seem to matter what my RAM is running at. 800mhz or 1067mhz.

My CPU has a, hopefully glass roof of 1098mhz. I just need to figure out what to do to brake the glass and get 3.0ghz on air, lol.


----------



## khurios2000

anybody selling their P5N-E SLI?
pm me


----------



## gooddog

I am having more success with overclocking the Q6600 with the 803 bios.
(before I ran at fine at 2.7, just trying to get more).

I have been running Prime95 on all four cores now for 30 minutes which I know is not a lot, but it is far beyond what I have been able to do before (previously either no boot or prime crashed at 1 minute).

Current settings:

Vcore: 1.34375
Offset: .1 setting
FSB 1331 (I heard that odd numbers work better on some boards...hey I am willing to try anything.
memory at sync mode (I tried unlinked at 800 and that was the same problem)

1.56 for the northbridge

Using a Zalman and the temps are ridicuously low - mid 40s at full stress.
Temp on Northbridge 50c

I did not do the pencil mod, and I do have vdroop (CPUID says I am at 1.312 right now at full load).

I did do the mosfet cooling.
Also put a heatsink on the southbridge.
didn't touch the northbridge.

Question on vdroop. Does that mean that the Vdroop is 1.34375 + .1 - 1.312. which sounds like alot or do I not factor in the .1?

thanks


----------



## gooddog

I am not sure I totally understand what the vdroop.
(numbers below are examples, not actuals)

I set vcore at say 1.3
I set that adjustment at the 100 mv setting.

So that looks like the processor is set at 1.4

I now look at what CPUID says at no load.
Lets say it says 1.38

I now run prime95 for a while and CPUID goes to 1.34

Questions:
1. with no load should CPUID report something different from the bios setting?
2. is Vdroop the difference between the bios setting and the CPUID setting at load?

thanks!


----------



## MaKe OuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooddog*


Question on vdroop. Does that mean that the Vdroop is 1.34375 + .1 - 1.312. which sounds like alot or do I not factor in the .1?

thanks


dont add the.1


----------



## MaKe OuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooddog*


I am not sure I totally understand what the vdroop.
(numbers below are examples, not actuals)

I set vcore at say 1.3
I set that adjustment at the 100 mv setting.

So that looks like the processor is set at 1.4

I now look at what CPUID says at no load.
Lets say it says 1.38

I now run prime95 for a while and CPUID goes to 1.34

Questions:
1. with no load should CPUID report something different from the bios setting?
2. is Vdroop the difference between the bios setting and the CPUID setting at load?

thanks!


from what i understand, what you set in bios is actual and what cpuid reports is off some. vdroop is equal to (Vcore @ idle) - (Vcore @ load) which would be .04V or 40mV according to your cpuid.


----------



## Shojeel

So I went back down to the 0403 BIOS and reset the CMOS.

I started overclocking my P4 single core 3.6ghz and got it to 3.83ghz. I tried running prime last night and it froze onlt after about 10 minutes. Here is what I have for settings, maybe someone can give me some suggestions:

Memory Timing- 4-4-4-12
FSB and Memory- 850
Vcore- 1.34xxx

and I think that is all I have done. I am not sure what my memory voltage should be at....... and the rest of the settings I have no clue on. What else can I do?


----------



## JerseyDubbin

hey guys again. So i think my ram was friend i just decided to RMA it to newegg because i was getting over 200,000 errors in a ememtest and my computer wouldn't post unless i cleared the cmos using the jumper config on the board. Even then it would boot about twice three times if i was lucky then go back to blank screen. So now i'm hoping it is the memory and not the board being f"ed up.

Anyone else have any experiences like this. sorry for not checking all 500 pages of the thread lol


----------



## tankman12

Well guys, with alittle help from a buddy, I got my sig rig up to 3.06ghz! Running 1750FSB at 1.4062vcore, memory is at 667 running 4-4-4-12-2T. For me, this is a huge accomplishment. Its the largest oc I have done yet. Once I get some NB/SB cooling and a better cpu cooler, I am gonna try to get higher. Right now, my temps are kinda high 69-70/load and 40 idle.


----------



## quaffapint

HELP!









Sorry for the shout - but new build with the Asus P5N-E SLI and on first boot all I get is a black screen - no beeps, no nothing. Just a black screen right away.

I have no idea what that could mean - Without beeps, I'm not sure were to start diagnostics...

System...
ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i
2GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer
Nvidia (some older model) PCIX video card
Intel e2180
CoolerMaster Gemini II cooler

ANY Ideas on what it could be or what to try?

Thank you for any help.


----------



## tankman12

Input your system specs here.

Now, first thing is double check all connections. Make sure your ram is fully seated, video card is fully seated, and all psu connections are tight. Then check to make sure your cmos jumper is set correctly. Jumper should be on pins 2-3 not 1-2. If your psu has a switch on it, make sure its set to on.


----------



## quaffapint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tankman12*


Input your system specs here.

Now, first thing is double check all connections. Make sure your ram is fully seated, video card is fully seated, and all psu connections are tight. Then check to make sure your cmos jumper is set correctly. Jumper should be on pins 2-3 not 1-2. If your psu has a switch on it, make sure its set to on.


Thanks for the reply...

Here's the update...

- I moved to one memory stick in the 2nd black slot
- I removed the old PCI-X video card

...Turned it on and it beeped 4 or 5 times

- I then re-inserted the PCI-X video card in the same Single PCI-X slot

...Turned it on and again nothing (no beeps)

Does this point to a bad video card, or is that just a possible symptom? This card was just working in my older box.

Thanks again


----------



## Perry

The 4 or 5 beeps with the video card removed is basically telling you that you have no video card so that isn't an issue. This board should beep once when you first boot so as was suggested before check all of your connections, make sure the CMOS is cleared...the usual stuff.

What are you running for a PSU?


----------



## quaffapint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


The 4 or 5 beeps with the video card removed is basically telling you that you have no video card so that isn't an issue. This board should beep once when you first boot so as was suggested before check all of your connections, make sure the CMOS is cleared...the usual stuff.

What are you running for a PSU?


I reset the CMOS - Same problem - Just black screen and no beeps.

Double-checked all PSU, memory, video card connections - all good.

PSU is a 550 Watt CoolMax AP550X - Pulled from my other working system.

Thanks again for any advice...


----------



## tankman12

Can you get ahold of another video card to try out?

Also, I have a question for anyone, what is a good NB cooler that fits well on this board? Not looking to spend 30-40 bucks either.


----------



## quaffapint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quaffapint*


I reset the CMOS - Same problem - Just black screen and no beeps.

Double-checked all PSU, memory, video card connections - all good.

PSU is a 550 Watt CoolMax AP550X - Pulled from my other working system.

Thanks again for any advice...


Alrighty - I borrowed an old ATI Radeon X700 Pro PCI-X 16

BADABING - It worked!

So, next I put my "non-working" NVidia PCI-X 16 card in the other computer and - It worked ?!









I don't get it - The Nvidia card is an older SLI-Ready model. Why does it not work on this board, but works on the other older AMD board?

I did notice that the fan on the Nvidia card makes loud noises on my ASUS MB, but runs smoothly on the AMD machine. Is it somehow underpowered on my board, even though it's rather old?

Thanks again for the assist


----------



## tankman12

Hhmmm...not sure why that is. Glad you narrowed it down though.


----------



## quaffapint

Yes - quite odd that the ATI card worked, and the NVidia did not - you figure it would be the other way around. Makes me leary about going out and buying another nvidia for this thing.
*
Anyone have good luck with the EVGA Nvidia 7600 GT ?*

Thanks...


----------



## Gauvenator

my 7600GS worked fine for a while...and then I got fed up with poor performance and got an 8800GT


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quaffapint*


Yes - quite odd that the ATI card worked, and the NVidia did not - you figure it would be the other way around. Makes me leary about going out and buying another nvidia for this thing.
*
Anyone have good luck with the EVGA Nvidia 7600 GT ?*

Thanks...


Yeah I had a eVGA 7600GT when I first bought this board, worked perfectly fine up until I upgraded to something else.


----------



## quaffapint

Sounds like the 7600 GT will keep me going for now (Im not a heavy gamer).

Thanks for all the info and help.

Next step - The overclock...


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quaffapint*


Sounds like the 7600 GT will keep me going for now (Im not a heavy gamer).

Thanks for all the info and help.

Next step - The overclock...










Yeah its a pretty decent card, I'd suggest a 3850 if its within your budget, its just a much better card but its a bit more, the 7600GT is great if you don't game much though, just don't expect to be running high quality in most games is all.

P.S. Fill in your PC specs here so its easier for people to help you if you ask questions


----------



## tonedeaf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tankman12* 
Can you get ahold of another video card to try out?

Also, I have a question for anyone, what is a good NB cooler that fits well on this board? Not looking to spend 30-40 bucks either.

just reseat it with tx2 or as5 and screw on a 40mm fan. im putting though 1.7v on mine and its at 37*c idle


----------



## iamtheculprit

hey i have this motherboard and i need to know how to access the FSB setting in bios, since with my processor the multiplier is locked to 10.


----------



## tankman12

Welcome to OCN. Please input your system specs here. It will help us to help you better.

As for your question, the fsb is under the Advanced tab. You have to set your AI tuning to Manual to be able to change the FSB. It is rated at QDR speed so you will see something like 1400 or 1420 QDR.


----------



## iamtheculprit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tankman12*


As for your question, the fsb is under the Advanced tab. You have to set your AI tuning to Manual to be able to change the FSB. It is rated at QDR speed so you will see something like 1400 or 1420 QDR.


Thanks a ton!


----------



## davidisflash

Hello! Can someone please help me with my overclock? Here are my specs:

ASUS P5N-E-SLI, rev 801 of the BIOS
E6600 C2D proc
2x 1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer kit, 4-4-4-12, 2.2V
2x WD Caviar 80GB hard drives: RAID 0
nvidia 7950 GTX GPU

Here is what I have done:

1) I have reseated the NB. I used isopropyl alcohol to clean the heatsink gunk well, and I reseated it with Arctic Silver ceramique. I have an 80mm Silenx 14dBA 32 CFM fan blowing directly into the heatsink, and the fan is literally touching the heatsink. I have one exhaust outtake fan on low speed and one side intake fan on low speed since I am watercooling with the Exos-2 kit. The CPU, GPU, one HD (don't know why







), and the SB are all water cooled.

2) I have done A LOT of reading online about the general 'tips' of overclocking. My goal of course has been to get 1600 FSB. I haven't been able to even with a 6x multiplier. Here was my general procedure of how to approach this:

- I have first and foremost ensured that the memory is manually set to 4-4-12 and 2T. I also set it to the voltage just above it's rated 2.2V (i've tried just under too and I've tried even relaxing these timings to 5-5-12).

- I have tried auto voltage for the CPU, forcing it to 1.45 with + 100mV, without + 100mV, etc. The voltages I do force are the NB to 1.5xxx (can't remember digits).

- I tidied the BIOS by turning off unused stuff : firewire, unused SATA , CPU features, etc.

- So when I was approaching the 1600 FSB, I was keeping the FSB unlinked. I'd manually add +10 to the FSB and +5 to the memory so that they stay 1:1.

- Regardless of different voltage settings for the CPU, memory, and the CPU multiplier, it seems as though stability is stopping around 1500 MHz for the rated-FSB.

Any ideas? Do I absolutely have to have an aftermarket heatsink for my northbridge? It's not scolding hot to the touch anymore, and I believe that based on my reading, the reseating, and the 80mm fan, that I should at least be able to reach 1600FSB. I know that if you are hardcore with the NB mod you can get 500+FSB, but it seems like my hardware here should be decent and my stability shouldn't stop at 1500.

Please help!!!

Thanks,

Davidisflash


----------



## iamtheculprit

ok so i was able to turn ai tuning to manual now where is the FSB?


----------



## davidisflash

hi iamtheculprit, whaddup









OK, so you see the screen with the following options: "AI Tuning", "System Clocks", "Voltage control", "FSB and memory config..." go to that last option. Set the first option to unlinked, then you can manually adjust FSB and MEM.

An update on my system: I just found a big air bubble in my H20 system. I had lowered the height of my reservoir relative to my case while fixing up the NB heatsink, and because of it, my idle temps for my CPU at 1500 FSB and ~ 1.5 V were in the low 40s. Seemed way to high for water cooling. Now this whole time, I've had my Koolance exos-2 fans set to speed "3" (it goes from 1-10), and I plan to keep it that quiet (or else why water cool). Even with that, my temps seemed to high. The hint I got was changing it to 10 during orthos stress test when my CPU was at 69C (!!!), and speeding up my water cooling fans didn't bring the temp down.

Now I have set it to 10 to cool off the water since it's been hot, entered windows at ~ 35C







Time to see if perhaps that was my bottleneck.

In the meantime, any help is appreciated and welcome.


----------



## davidisflash

Ok, here's what I am at right now:

CPU Vcore = auto, +.100mv, Asus Probe shows Vcore going from 1.47-1.54, mainly staying closer to 1.54.
NB = 1.5xxx volts
Mem at manufacturer recommendations, voltage just a notch above 2.0V
Unlinked, 1533 FSB, 766 Mem (1:1)

When I entered Windows with fan turned up to max for watercooling, CPU cores in Core Temp show that they are idle at 36C. Looks good.

I am now reducing the fan speed to 3 and am starting Orthos stress test. CPU-Z, Core temp, Asus Probe, and speedfan all running in the background.

Forgot to mention: here's what I mean by unstable. For all previous tests, I could only boot into Windows if FSB < 1540. Also, for the times I could, Orthos would fail within 20 minutes. Asus would then wine at some point saying that my Vcore fluctuated by > 20 percent. I wasn't watching temps, I'd usually go in the other room, so perhaps it was temp-related.


----------



## mchutch

Where is your system specs. davidisflash? It would help me out to see em, I'm trying to break 3.0Ghz on this quadsky.


----------



## Pulaski

When adding a fan to the NB, which direction should the air flow? Should the fan be on top or should I place it on the side of the heatsink?

Thanks for any help


----------



## iamtheculprit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *davidisflash* 
hi iamtheculprit, whaddup










OK, so you see the screen with the following options: "AI Tuning", "System Clocks", "Voltage control", "FSB and memory config..." go to that last option. Set the first option to unlinked, then you can manually adjust FSB and MEM.


I honestly dont know how i missed that. ok the value in the qdr feild is 1226 (multiplier of 10). what should i set this to to achieve... oh, 3.3Ghz? i have seccessfully oc'd the cpu to 3.19Ghz with the ai overclock feature and it ran cool so i was lookin to push it higher (btw its running at 3.06Ghz right now)


----------



## iamtheculprit

wait i just noticed a pattern.. if my qdr is 1226 then that devided by four equals 306 which would work for my fsb, since its runnin at 3.06, right? so if i wanted to get say 3.3 then i would want my qdr to be 1320 because 1320/4=330 and a fsb of 330x a multiplier of 10=3.30 ghz right?


----------



## iamtheculprit

successful overclock of 3.3Ghz!!

qdr of 1320/4=330x10=3.3Ghz!

Thanks youre help has been invaluable!

what operating temps should i be looking at?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamtheculprit*


successful overclock of 3.3Ghz!!

qdr of 1320/4=330x10=3.3Ghz!

Thanks youre help has been invaluable!

what operating temps should i be looking at?


yeah, pretty much yours would be QDR FSB x 2.5 = CPU speed, congrats on the O/C, I still can't get above 3.2 stable







its orthos stable but crashes folding


----------



## davidisflash

This is from my first post on page 533, but here are my specs again:

Hello! Can someone please help me with my overclock? Here are my specs:

ASUS P5N-E-SLI, rev 801 of the BIOS
E6600 C2D proc
2x 1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer kit, 4-4-4-12, 2.2V
2x WD Caviar 80GB hard drives: RAID 0
nvidia 7950 GTX GPU

By the way, if you look at my last post before this one, orthos failed in my last test. It had an error after 25 minutes.

FYI: my fan is blowing air into the northbridge and on top of it, not from the side.

Thanks for any help you may have.


----------



## davidisflash

I've been following all recommended guidelines, reseated NB heatsink with Arctic silver ceramique. 80mm fan blowing into it from top. I can't get stable oc past 1500 FSB.


----------



## tonedeaf

what are the temps for the cpu and NB
did you raise the NB voltage to 1.5?


----------



## quakermaas

I have this board with an E6550, NB is at 1.5 volts and running a stable 476 fsb(1904)
I can pust it to 480 fsb or just pass that, but hit the wall, never did try the NB at 1.7 it just sounds like to much volts for the NB, even with watercooling.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

Hey guys just built my first machine and I need a little bit of help overclocking. I have the E6750 and would like to overclock it to about 3.5. However I am stable at 3.2 ran Othros for 8 hours without a problem, but when I tried to go to 3.3 I just get a black screen and the system will not post. There is no long beep or anything it just won't post. Here are my settings.
BIOS 0703

Stable
FSB 1600 Vcore 1.325v Ram 800 unlinked
Unstable
FSB 1650 Vcore 1.325v & 1.331v Ram 800 unlinked

Any help would be greatly appreciated, if I left out any info just let me know.

Thanks


----------



## davidisflash

I ran orthos overnight at 1511 FSB. Core temps were at like 71-72 (too hot right), and I'm not sure about the NB. I'm GUESSING it's the first temp speedfan shows, and it was in low 50s (if this is true, also too hot right). Voltage is at auto + 100 mV. In CPU-Z, it appeared that the voltage fluctuated a little but was aroud 1.74V or so. If I just set the voltage to just above this in BIOS for Vcore and turn of 100mV, I can't boot to Windows.

Orthos did run for about 8 hours without failure though. I got a slight improvement after moving my resevoir around to get air bubbles out of the water cooling.

Questions:

1) How do I get the rest of the air bubbles out of the water cooling? It appears I got the big one out that was hovering around where the tubing connects to the reservoir where water returns to it. I still have a bubble going into the CPU block.

2) Why am I bottlenecked? Even with that temp for the CPU, do you really think I can't push further?

3) Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

D-Flash


----------



## davidisflash

Forgot to mention: this morning when I checked the night test, Asus probe gave me warnings about all voltages: 3.3, 5, Vcore, etc.

It's weird: I MUST use 100 mV in all cases at these high FSB speeds in order to gain stability, but I'm still bottlenecked now around ~1530 FSB. I'm not gonna push that until I can get my temps lower.


----------



## davidisflash

Now that I'm looking at my H20 cooling, I'm even wondering if water is flowing where it should. I "think" it is in the reservoir at least because i see a lot of incoming little bubbles, so I'm guessing something is moving. At the CPU block, I don't think water is flowing though due to that bubble...at the outtake part of the water block, a LOT of little bubbles have collected at the lip. I don't think air is passing into the block due to a not-tight-enough connection. I tried tightening it and I think it's fine.


----------



## quaffapint

What is generally agreed upon as the "most" stable and overclockable BIOS version?

My board came with v0608 - Not sure whether to stick with that or not.

Thanks.


----------



## davidisflash

i lied...i didn't get the big air bubble out right where the outtake tube meets the reservoir...a big air bubble is just sitting there...how do i get it out??


----------



## Rapid_Eraser

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quaffapint*


What is generally agreed upon as the "most" stable and overclockable BIOS version?

My board came with v0608 - Not sure whether to stick with that or not.

Thanks.


Stick with it.


----------



## Strosek

Hello everyone, I'm in the process of building a system for a friend who will be using it for business (online stock trading) and I need a setup that is going to be 100% reliable and stable. I'm very new at this so please bear with me.
What would you guys recommend as settings for a very stable mild overclock that won't give him any problems. Could someone give me a screen shoot of the settings? I think that would be really helpful. I just want him to have a reliable and fast system but in that order, reliable first. From what I've read looks like around 3Ghz will be about my max but you guys know better then me. Also even if it's not going to be a huge OC what settings would make the system run as efficiently as possible.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## NUM3ERZ

I posted on the previous page about not being able to get the BIOS to post when trying to overclock my e6750 past 3.2 Ghz. I tried manual inputting the ram timing 4-4-4-12 but that also failed to post even when leaving the CPU setting at 3.2 when it is stable. Could the BIOS v0703 be causing the problems. Help please.

Thanks


----------



## Mr Face

Hi Numb3rz,

Your board may be hitting an fsb hole. Mine will refuse to post when the fsb is set anywhere between 1600-1800, you might be getting the same problem. Try putting your fsb up to 1800 and you vcore up to around 1.44v and see if that works. You should be able to achive a much higher overclock with that CPU


----------



## breader

Hi,

I am trying to oc my new system but being new to overclocking I am not sure I am doing it right. I have read through the many posts but still seem a little confused.

1) I have the latest bios.
2) I am going into advanced, FSB & memory config and setting to unlinked.
3) I am then upping the FSB (QDR), Mhz by about 15 and then rebooting untill I get a problem on boot.
4)When I get a problem I am going into voltage control and upping the VCore Voltage.

Please tell me I am doing something wrong because I cant seem to get it past :-
FSB (QDR), Mhz 1150mhz.

Can anyone who has clocked a system like this give me a bit of a run down on what to do?.

All help appreciated.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr Face* 
Hi Numb3rz,

Your board may be hitting an fsb hole. Mine will refuse to post when the fsb is set anywhere between 1600-1800, you might be getting the same problem. Try putting your fsb up to 1800 and you vcore up to around 1.44v and see if that works. You should be able to achive a much higher overclock with that CPU









Thanks for you help when I set the FSB to 1800 and set the vcore to 1.44 it was able to post just fine. However windows would not load up. I back down the voltage to 1.41 and got the the loading page of windows but then it went black. Then I backed it down to 1.35v and windows opened but froze soon after. Any ideas?


----------



## Mr Face

Hmm, try increasing the vcore 1 step at a time until it boots, you should be safe for a few hundred more mV on your cooler. I run mine at 1.47 for a 3.9ghz OC.

Alternatively try lowing the fsb a little bit, the fsb hole may be smaller on your board than mine.

Hope this helps!


----------



## NUM3ERZ

I'll give it a try.

Thanks


----------



## davidisflash

could I be hitting a FSB hole if I'm getting stuck around 1511 MHz? And how come you guys are able to get 1600+ FSB with Vcore around 1.7? With my auto Vcore setting + 100mV, it looks like in CPU-Z, when the voltage fluctuates, it goes up to as much as 1.53!!! What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Gauvenator

Dont use auto vcore. Set it manually to the VID that CoreTemp gives you, then adjust it for stability. This board will put excessive amounts of vcore through on auto.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

Trying to get my e6750 to 3.6 and tired every vcore setting from 1.33 to 1.4175 and nothing was stable. I did manage to make my chip stable at 3.5 with 1.33v. Should I just be happy with this?







Or is there something else I can try?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NUM3ERZ* 
Trying to get my e6750 to 3.6 and tired every vcore setting from 1.33 to 1.4175 and nothing was stable. I did manage to make my chip stable at 3.5 with 1.33v. Should I just be happy with this?







Or is there something else I can try?

3.5 Ghz at 1.3v is...amazing. Bump your vcore to 1.45v or try lowering multiplier.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

I guess i will stay happy at 3.5 until I get some additional cooling for the motherboard then I'll up the voltage more. Do you know what the vcore limit is for the e6750?


----------



## davidisflash

for that processor, look at intel's website, unless you find it first on google. just search for the processor name and Vcore max. I don't know the number off hand.

I know you usually shouldn't use auto for Vcore. However, I've tried manually setting the voltage to a value higher than what core temp says. For example, I tried 1.5V for 1511 FSB!!! I know that should be plenty, and I was having stability issue. It seems like I'm at a point where I must use 100mV for stability, and even so, Asus Probe complains about the voltages (prolly because of the 100mV adding fluctuation??).

If anyone has ideas about getting rid of air bubbles in my watercooling system as well, please let me know. Right now, I've tried just tapping all the tubes, basically shaking the reservoir, changing its height, etc. I THINK I may have broken the big air bubble where the tubing meets the intake to the reservoir. I have my reservoir sitting above my computer without the screw so that it's exposed to air. Is this a good idea, and does it usually take a long time to get the air out? It seems like the bubble at the CPU block isn't moving, so I'm guessing that there's a blockage there, causing my high temps?


----------



## davidisflash

I've run Orthos for 3 hours so far...Vcore at 1.4750, no 100mV, and temps appear to stay between 56-61 or so. Perhaps I got some improvement with the bubble issue?

Anyways, for that test, my FSB was at 1466, and my mem was at 733 (1:1). Still, this seems like I should be able to do better.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NUM3ERZ*


I guess i will stay happy at 3.5 until I get some additional cooling for the motherboard then I'll up the voltage more. Do you know what the vcore limit is for the e6750?


Do not go over 1.5v on air cooling to be safe. 1.55v on water cooling.

Intel's specifications are:
1.5v max
60.1 C max


----------



## NUM3ERZ

Thanks to everyone who has helped me.


----------



## davidisflash

I agree with Blizzie.


----------



## iamtheculprit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


yeah, pretty much yours would be QDR FSB x 2.5 = CPU speed, congrats on the O/C, I still can't get above 3.2 stable







its orthos stable but crashes folding










meh. unfortunately i had to downgrade back to my nvidia geforce 6600 because my psu isnt enough for my 8600gts







so no more crysis.


----------



## davidisflash

yo culprit, can you update your specs for your power supply? it's a 500W what? Antec? This will give us an idea of how clean your power is...important for overclocking!


----------



## MaKe OuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breader*


Hi,

I am trying to oc my new system but being new to overclocking I am not sure I am doing it right. I have read through the many posts but still seem a little confused.

1) I have the latest bios.
2) I am going into advanced, FSB & memory config and setting to unlinked.
3) I am then upping the FSB (QDR), Mhz by about 15 and then rebooting untill I get a problem on boot.
4)When I get a problem I am going into voltage control and upping the VCore Voltage.

Please tell me I am doing something wrong because I cant seem to get it past :-
FSB (QDR), Mhz 1150mhz.

Can anyone who has clocked a system like this give me a bit of a run down on what to do?.

All help appreciated.
























hey, i was running the same quad core on this mobo and had it at 2.9GHz with bios version 0801. i used multiplier of 9 and vcore of 1.25V not using the +100mV. i used fsb:dram 1:1 and left my NB voltage and mem voltage on auto. i hear this board has problems with OC on quads and i could not get past 2.9GHz.


----------



## davidisflash

"i used fsb:dram 1:1 and left my NB voltage and mem voltage on auto"

try not using auto voltage for mem and nb. set mem to what is specified by the manufacturer, and put nb at 1.5xx. Don't go above this as that can really shorten the life span of your nb.


----------



## davidisflash

is it possible that for my overclock (hitting fsbs just above 1500MHz) that I would be OK to reduce NB voltage to 1.3xxx? Could that be overheating? I don't THINK it is as now the heatsink feels just a little above ambiant since i have a fan blowing on it and I reseated the paste. Has anyone found a way to reliably determine NB temp? Speedfan isn't very clear, and I don't know if it's trustworthy.


----------



## breader

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT* 
hey, i was running the same quad core on this mobo and had it at 2.9GHz with bios version 0801. i used multiplier of 9 and vcore of 1.25V not using the +100mV. i used fsb:dram 1:1 and left my NB voltage and mem voltage on auto. i hear this board has problems with OC on quads and i could not get past 2.9GHz.

Thanks for your reply. This is new to me so please be patient if I ask a stupid question.

So the only thing you changed was the FSB (QDR), Mhz which is set to 1066.7 as default. How bigger increment can you up this by??

Also you were running 1:1, so does that mean you were upping the ram at the same time?


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *davidisflash* 
i lied...i didn't get the big air bubble out right where the outtake tube meets the reservoir...a big air bubble is just sitting there...how do i get it out??

Rock your system back and forth until the air bubble is gone. Plus i just found out that my NB is at 46Â°c but that because in right after the CPU in my WC loop.


----------



## breader

Hi,

I am trying to oc my new system but being new to overclocking I am not sure I am doing it right. I have read through the many posts but still seem a little confused.

1) I have the latest bios.
2) I am going into advanced, FSB & memory config and setting to unlinked.
3) I am then upping the FSB (QDR), Mhz by about 15 and then rebooting untill I get a problem on boot.
4)When I get a problem I am going into voltage control and upping the VCore Voltage.

Please tell me I am doing something wrong because I cant seem to get it past :-
FSB (QDR), Mhz 1150mhz.

Can anyone who has clocked a system like this give me a bit of a run down on what to do?.

All help appreciated.


----------



## davidisflash

Thanks Asce! I'll try rocking my system. How do you measure your NB temp?

I let my system run overnight with the radiator cap removed. It appears that some of the bubbles have gone away. I think the bubble on the left side of the cpu cooler got smaller, and on the right side where all the bubbles connected at the lip of the cooler, they all went away









I ran the following test last night for 8 hours, no errors:

Vcore = 1.45, no 100mV as you guys recommended
FSB at 1466, MEM at 733

I'm glad I am getting stability, but I want to do better. I now am running the same test by stepping down the voltage a notch.

Any other ideas on how I can get to 1600 FSB? I still believe my hardware and cooling should be capable.

I've done the recommended: set mem to manufacturer timings and voltage, NB = 1.5xx, turned off all things like speedstep, etc. Even with my slight temp improvement, I still seemed to be bottlenecked at 1533 FSB. I tried going into Windows with 1540 FSB and Vcore = 1.5V, which should be PLENTY. It didn't boot...could I be experiencing a FSB hole?


----------



## Hedera

My system is *almost* stable: runs hours of Orthos w/o errors, does multiple runs of 3dmark06 and PCmark05 fine, no random lock-ups or other erratic behavior. The only problem is, after the computer has been off for a few hours, it will do roughly the following sequence when powering up: (1) it won't post, (2) will post but hangs loading windows, (3) gets further into windows, but still hangs, (4) eventually loads windows and is stable as a rock from then on. It takes no bios changes to get it into windows eventually, just multiple reboots. Once it is "working", I can reboot multiple times, and turn it off for a little bit without the problem. It only happens after the computer has been off, say, all night.

Any ideas? Adjusting vcore higher does not help (it's already at 1.42 +100mV).

NB volts: 1.56
vdimm: 2.1
4-4-4-15 @ 800Mhz (yes, it's manually entered in the bios).
FSB @ 1735 = e6550 from 2.33 stock to 3.03 oc'd


----------



## davidisflash

Hedera, it sounds like you should try doing a "burn in" of your system. Once you get into Windows with those "almost stable" settings (or try turning down your FSB just a notch, like 10 MHz), run Orthos for maybe 2-3 days or so.

What do you mean by "many hours?" Please be specific. Typically, stability is achieved by 8 hours of continuous failure-free operation, but burn-in can take longer. The burn-in process should give your system a "memory" that things are stable at those speeds.

Best of luck,

D


----------



## tankman12

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hedera* 
My system is *almost* stable: runs hours of Orthos w/o errors, does multiple runs of 3dmark06 and PCmark05 fine, no random lock-ups or other erratic behavior. The only problem is, after the computer has been off for a few hours, it will do roughly the following sequence when powering up: (1) it won't post, (2) will post but hangs loading windows, (3) gets further into windows, but still hangs, (4) eventually loads windows and is stable as a rock from then on. It takes no bios changes to get it into windows eventually, just multiple reboots. Once it is "working", I can reboot multiple times, and turn it off for a little bit without the problem. It only happens after the computer has been off, say, all night.

Any ideas? Adjusting vcore higher does not help (it's already at 1.42 +100mV).

NB volts: 1.56
vdimm: 2.1
4-4-4-15 @ 800Mhz (yes, it's manually entered in the bios).
FSB @ 1735 = e6550 from 2.33 stock to 3.03 oc'd

Heres my settings on my sig rig;

FSB=1760
VCore=1.39375
Mem=1.920
NB=1.393 +100mv

3.08Ghz

I am going to attempt to go higher but want to let my system run to see how stable it is. So far its been running for 2 days folding at 100%.

Maybe try these settings and see what ya get.


----------



## gooddog

Well, good news is that I got my Q6600 at 3G.
Bad news is that Vista now says I need to activate (a previously activated version) and when I try it says this license is already in use.

The only thing I changed since the original activation is:
- OCing the CPU
- going from 2 to 4G memory (I understand you can't even install vista with 2G so I can't believe that made a difference).

Anyone else have this problem? I guess I can call them to fix it, but I don't want to keep calling when I am just OCing.

thanks!


----------



## raven117

hey guys i was playing oblivion, crysis, and boshock yesterday for about 5 hours and i noticed my temps were kind of high, are they safe or a little too high.

cpu-40 celcius
chipset warning comes on at 37 but the real temp goes up to 40

my case has plenty of cooling so idk these temps would be bad im just a little worried. and durring this run my cpu was at stock clocks. thanks for any help


----------



## tankman12

Is that 40Â°c under load or idle? If that is under load, that is great. If its at idle, thats about normal, I believe. My idle is around 40-42Â°c.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tankman12* 
Is that 40Â°c under load or idle? If that is under load, that is great. If its at idle, thats about normal, I believe. My idle is around 40-42Â°c.

Really? I run at 45C SMP folding, 48C if the PS3 is running since its exhaust -> rigs intake unfortunately.

Idle of 40~C seems fairly high, even my stock cooler @ 1.35V ran 29C idle, whats your ambients?

Edit: My 8 was a star ... weird


----------



## tankman12

Right now its about 65Â°F I believe. I guess I need to get BT for my cpu then.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tankman12*


Right now its about 65Â°F I believe. I guess I need to get BT for my cpu then.


Try just reseating it, might have been too much paste, are you using AS5?


----------



## tankman12

No unfortunately. I forgot to order some when I got my new motherboard. I am sure thats why my temps are alittle higher than most. Next time I order from Newegg, I will also order a couple tubes of AS5.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tankman12*


No unfortunately. I forgot to order some when I got my new motherboard. I am sure thats why my temps are alittle higher than most. Next time I order from Newegg, I will also order a couple tubes of AS5.


Yeah because even when I was using stock cooler + AS5, and my ambients are ... umm the dorm thermostats set to 24C, so say 70F, my idle was around 30C.


----------



## sherpa_man

could you take a q6600 up to 3.0ghz or maybe 3.2ghz on this board with this cooler


----------



## tankman12

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Yeah because even when I was using stock cooler + AS5, and my ambients are ... umm the dorm thermostats set to 24C, so say 70F, my idle was around 30C.


I'm goona shut down and reseat just to see.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


could you take a q6600 up to 3.0ghz or maybe 3.2ghz on this board with this cooler


I highly doubt it for 2 reasons.

1. This board sucks for quads, only I believe 3 or 4 people have gotten 3.0 ghz stable, and even then some of them had a lot of difficulties.
2. Those premade tiny watercooling solutions suck, you'd be better off with a TT120 extreme + 2 good fans.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tankman12*


I'm goona shut down and reseat just to see.










Goodluck


----------



## sherpa_man

isnt that just a heat sink ?


----------



## tankman12

Well, I'm back. After re-applying and reseating, my temps are still around 42Â°c. I will see if they come down alittle after the burn in period. The only thermal paste I have is some stuff called Dynex. Not sure how good it is but I am pretty sure its not even close to AS5.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

hmm on just stock air cooling my temps are about 38c. Even when i was OC'ed to 3.1x they stayed just about the same went up like 2 degrees i think. i didn't think this was correct but everest said so lol


----------



## Asce

Used Asus probe and Speedfan. Im lucky with my setup as i didnt have to rock it that much to bleed the whole loop.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


isnt that just a heat sink ?


Nope the bigwater is a all in one water cooling kit that performs on par with air cooling / slightly worse. Your way better off with just getting a high end air cooler for probably less money.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Can you change the CPU multiplier with bios 0608?

I seem to remember you couldn't change the CPU multi, atleast on my E4300 with bioses other than 0401.


----------



## davidisflash

Asce, was your last post directed to me about using speedfan and asus probe and not having to rock your case that much?

When I rotate my case, should I leave the cap off on my radiator so that air can escape to the atmosphere?

Unrelated question for all: how do I show somebody's quotes in a reply









Thanks,

D


----------



## tankman12

Hit the "*Quote"* button in the bottom right of the post you want to quote.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *davidisflash* 
Asce, was your last post directed to me about using speedfan and asus probe and not having to rock your case that much?

When I rotate my case, should I leave the cap off on my radiator so that air can escape to the atmosphere?

Unrelated question for all: how do I show somebody's quotes in a reply









Thanks,

D

Tis was. Just unscrew the cap just enough for air to escape.


----------



## raven117

those temps were under load. I oc'd my processor back tp 3 and my temps hardly change maybe 2 degrees up(i turned my rearr 120 fan on high).


----------



## kmo_9000

hey i just got my hsf in and im ready to overclock this thing.

As you can see im running a Q6600, I have heard people having problems with quad cores but im just looking to get to at least 3 or maybe 3.2.

Can someone help me out here like what they have their settings at or link me to the overclocking guide for this mobo. This thread is huge.


----------



## Asce

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post2820311

Since Trib hasnt been around for some time, i will put the link into my sig as well to make it easier to get hold of.


----------



## Gauvenator

davidisflash

to get your air bubbles out you should just turn off your rig and move it around a bunch (even turn it upside down if necessary) to get your air bubble to the t-line or res.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
davidisflash

to get your air bubbles out you should just turn off your rig and move it around a bunch (even turn it upside down if necessary) to get your air bubble to the t-line or res.

Woohoo I can quote now







Thanks for this suggestion. Somebody at work mentioned putting my electric shaver up to the tube to see if the vibrations will break it







I'll try that as well.

Btw, the radiator cap (diameter is about one of a quarter) is completely off, been running for a day and a half while exposed to the air in the room. Seems like the bubbles are smaller, but I'm impatient...want to break them now


----------



## davidisflash

i came home today, AND THE BUBBLE IS GONE!!! Leaving the cap off for the last two days helped!

How do I know when to replace it...even though I don't see any air, how can I be confident that the cap can be sealed again?

Now back to my system. Orthos ran for 10 hours today, 1.45V, 1466 FSB. Core temp showed 57C, and my fans for my watercooling were only at 30% speed









So this is an improvement. I'm gonna try now going up again. Who knows, perhaps the air bubbles were making my SB (which is also water cooled) overheat...I'll let you know how far I get. I'm making sure not to use the 100mV Vcore boost, and I am setting Vcore to fixed values.


----------



## Gauvenator

As long as you don't have a bunch of air in your res I wouldn't think you would have to worry about introducing a new bubble, unless maybe you tip your system so air goes into the tubes.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
As long as you don't have a bunch of air in your res I wouldn't think you would have to worry about introducing a new bubble, unless maybe you tip your system so air goes into the tubes.

I was actually thinking that. I probably introduced a lot of air when I was reapplying paste to the heatsink as I was moving the reservoir and case around a lot.

By the way, my results of load = 57C at 1466 FSB was at 1.625V, not 1.5V, so that makes me even more hopefully that I should be getting better temps now


----------



## Gauvenator

nice. What waterblock and rad are you using?


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
nice. What waterblock and rad are you using?

I'm using the Koolance Exos-2 radiator (I think it sucks







)

CPU waterblock is a Zalman
VGA waterblock is Thermaltake, specific for my 7950gt
SB waterblock is Koolance
HD waterblock is Koolance...there was no point buying this one


----------



## benfica101

i had one of these Mobos. Some how i overclocked the CPU to 3.7ghz with my E6600
and raised the NB to 1.5v and i broke the motheboard. but it was good while it lasted


----------



## dod713

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooddog* 
Well, good news is that I got my Q6600 at 3G.
Bad news is that Vista now says I need to activate (a previously activated version) and when I try it says this license is already in use.

The only thing I changed since the original activation is:
- OCing the CPU
- going from 2 to 4G memory (I understand you can't even install vista with 2G so I can't believe that made a difference).

Anyone else have this problem? I guess I can call them to fix it, but I don't want to keep calling when I am just OCing.

thanks!


dogg can you post me how did you make it stable at 3g pls!!! i just got hard time making it stable.


----------



## davidisflash

Currently I'm at 1.5V Vcore, 1.5xx V for NB, and 1511 FSB, 756 Mem (1:1, 3.4 GHz). I'm testing for stability using Orthos right now. It's been 30 minutes, and already I see the following temps:

Core temp: both CPUs at 64...it went up to 67 instantly then right back down to 64 after a minute or so, dunno why

In speedfan:
temp1 = 55C //is this the NB??!!! This is way too hot!
temp2 = 37C //SB perhaps?
Temp3 = 25C // ??
Temp1 = 40C //guessing this is the mobo
Core0/1 = 64/64
Core = 46C //I know this is the GPU

Why are my temps so high? I thought I got pretty much all the air out of my water cooling. I reseated NB heatsink with AS ceramique and have an 80mm Silenx fan blowing directly on it (fan is rated at 32 CFM, which should be plenty).


----------



## breader

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dod713* 
dogg can you post me how did you make it stable at 3g pls!!! i just got hard time making it stable.

Same here, gooddog I have posted you a PM regarding this.


----------



## hometoast

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Can you change the CPU multiplier with bios 0608?

I seem to remember you couldn't change the CPU multi, atleast on my E4300 with bioses other than 0401.

looks like nobody else answered, but yes you can change the multi. you just can't change it upward of 9x (4300's a 200x9 right?)


----------



## markt

hey ,I just subsrcibed to this thread. I have been a member since november.Still trying to learn how to use everything...I like the usability of the p5n-e sli,I see people saying that the p5n-e sli is a crappy board.I can say its not. I have a Q6600 B3 rev. OCed to 3.22Ghz stable ,good temps(43c-47c idle ,55c-61c load.1.45 v...nice to meet everyone.


----------



## Gauvenator

wow 3.2 on a quad with this board is extremely good


----------



## gooddog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dod713* 
dogg can you post me how did you make it stable at 3g pls!!! i just got hard time making it stable.

Here is the info:
Hi,
First, I have not done the ultra long burn in yet. Usually running prime95 for an hour or two until I see if it is worth trying to get a bit more out of it.

vcore 1.31875
vdimm 2.178
nb 1.3
offset .1
fsb 1331
linked/sync memory.
I know this drops memory down to around 665 but i haven't had any luck with unlinked.
timings 5,5,5,15,2

using 2x1G of the OCZ platinums.

A couple of notes:
1. Doesn't work when I go to 4 sticks of memory.
2. Using the 803 bios (the new one)
3. NO luck with running this with memory unlinked and memory at standard speed. I think that is a big clue as to what is going on.
4. When I go to 4 sticks of memory, I can't get above 2.7G with the same settings. Vista doesn't boot. I think this is a memory issue.


----------



## Procol

i got same problem cant get my pc stable with 3 gigs of ram 2 works fine but 3 starts getting error etc.
Anyone have some good advice?

Thx for help


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Procol* 
i got same problem cant get my pc stable with 3 gigs of ram 2 works fine but 3 starts getting error etc.
Anyone have some good advice?

Thx for help

Hi Procol-

Try loosening your timings. They are all the same DIMMs right? I don't think it's a slot issue as I believe ASUS resolved those with their later BIOS releases. I would think that the more memory you have, the more latency there would be for r/w accesses. So if you are at 4-4-4-12 right now, try 5-5-5-15. Make sure you are on 2T, and then start bringing your timings down one at a time. Who knows, through extensive burn-in, you may make it solid at your desired settings.


----------



## Peroxide

So I've read a bit about 4x1GB being bad on 650i and 680i.

Does this hold true to this board?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Peroxide*


So I've read a bit about 4x1GB being bad on 650i and 680i.

Does this hold true to this board?


I'm doing fine with 4x1gb sticks of mushkin ram. 4gb DDR2-800 5-5-5-12 for only $100!!!


----------



## markt

How is this score on 3d06Attachment 63764I'm at 3.22 now ,q6600 b3 ,stable . Ihad it to 3.3 Ghz but not 100% stable.I tried different voltages but ...no.Any suggestions?1.44 V-core.timings and voltss on RAM stock .Sync n linked.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *markt*


How is this score on 3d06Attachment 63764I'm at 3.22 now ,q6600 b3 ,stable . Ihad it to 3.3 Ghz but not 100% stable.I tried different voltages but ...no.Any suggestions?1.44 V-core.timings and voltss on RAM stock .Sync n linked.


Holy cow! That's a GREAT score! Probably can be made higher if you are stable and if you revert back to XP Pro. I lost about 3% in Vista when using 3dmark06.


----------



## ZionEx

Anyone else unable to run Ballistix PC2-6400 at 1000Mhz on this board?


----------



## markt

Where I'm at you'd be lucky to find Ballistix, or anything the civilized world would be familiar with- lol. I couldnt get my ram to run above stock. But I havent used that kind. I sync n linked .356x9...RAM at 712.


----------



## gooddog

3DMark06 question - couldn't find answer elsewhere

When I run it, the CPU are incredibly slow - 1 FPS. That clearly doesn't make sense.
I have a Q6600 at between 2.7G and 4G of memory at 800.

Clearly there is something wrong here?

Any help appreciated!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooddog*


3DMark06 question - couldn't find answer elsewhere

When I run it, the CPU are incredibly slow - 1 FPS. That clearly doesn't make sense.
I have a Q6600 at between 2.7G and 4G of memory at 800.

Clearly there is something wrong here?

Any help appreciated!


Nope thats about right, mine runs at around 0.5-0.75 FPS with my C2D.

The cpu test only renders using the CPU, now their not made for it, their made to do a variety of tasks and thus are nowhere near as quick as GPUs, which are dedicated for rendering, so CPUs are much less efficient at it.

For example, one of the top 3dmark scores in the hall of game

Intel Core 2 Quad 5660 MHz --> 3 fps on the first CPU test.


----------



## gooddog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Nope thats about right, mine runs at around 0.5-0.75 FPS with my C2D.

The cpu test only renders using the CPU, now their not made for it, their made to do a variety of tasks and thus are nowhere near as quick as GPUs, which are dedicated for rendering, so CPUs are much less efficient at it.

For example, one of the top 3dmark scores in the hall of game

Intel Core 2 Quad 5660 MHz --> 3 fps on the first CPU test.

Whew...thanks a bunch...

So this test seems to be much more about the GPU than the overall system? But it seems that a lot of people here use that to benchmark their system when it seems that the CPU doesn't factor much into the equation.

Are there other benchmark programs that people use to look at the overall system?


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooddog*


Whew...thanks a bunch...

So this test seems to be much more about the GPU than the overall system? But it seems that a lot of people here use that to benchmark their system when it seems that the CPU doesn't factor much into the equation.

Are there other benchmark programs that people use to look at the overall system?


The CPU is still a big factor in the equation (the 2nd biggest to your GPU being the first). I had a pentium d 920 dual core CPU, and my 3dmark score went up 20% in 3dmark06 when I upgrade CPUs.


----------



## davidisflash

well it looks like I was stable after 8 hours of orthos at 1511 FSB and MEM at 756 (3.4GHz). Vcore was 1.5375, no 100 mV push, NB was 1.5xx, mem at factory rating stuff.

I determined that if the Vcore is brought any lower, Orthos fails.

My temps were around 68-69...I know this was an improvement since I got the air out of my system, but given I'm running on 30% fan speed and have a high voltage, is this temp "expected" or still higher than what I should be seeing?

I am running the test now with NB reduced to 1.3xx. So far, 2 hours, no failures


----------



## Shojeel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shojeel*


So I went back down to the 0403 BIOS and reset the CMOS.

I started overclocking my P4 single core 3.6ghz and got it to 3.83ghz. I tried running prime last night and it froze onlt after about 10 minutes. Here is what I have for settings, maybe someone can give me some suggestions:

Memory Timing- 4-4-4-12
FSB and Memory- 850
Vcore- 1.34xxx

and I think that is all I have done. I am not sure what my memory voltage should be at....... and the rest of the settings I have no clue on. What else can I do?



Can anyone help me. I know I am behindin technologybut it is what it is. I will upgrade soon enough.


----------



## gooddog

Prime 95 ran all night, so I am done tinkering with this (for a while







).

I am a noob so take all this with that in mind...it was a lot of trial and error and I may have done something stupid

1. bios 803
2. memory (4x1G OCZ) - I made sure the timings were right by running memtest for a couple of runs with the CPU at standard speed.
3. fsb at 1399. Call it superstition, but someone else also noted that odd numbers seem to work better.
4. memory was set to linked/sync. I think this is really important. When I was running unlinked, I could boot, but vista had trouble loading.
5. voltage at 1.35625
6. offset .1
7. memory voltage at 2.175
8. NB at 1.56 (I think this is more needed due to running 4 sticks).
9. fan on NB and I did the Mosfet cooling (found in this thread).
10. No pencil mod (yet)
11. Zalman 9700

CPU temps are fine. low 50s at full load after 7 hours. 
NB was at low 50s...I don't know if that is okay.

What I saw was that there did seem to be a rather large hole in the FSB. so i just tried a much higher number and worked down from there.


----------



## gooddog

The voltage of the q6600 is not supposed to run about 1.5

Can you run it higher than 1.5 as long as you keep the temp down? Or is 1.5 a bad voltage regardless of the temp of the processor?

Reason I ask is that I run at 1.44 max but the temp of the processor under full load is only in the low 50s. Normal usage is in the low 30s.

So is this voltage okay or is it too close to 1.5? Or does it matter that it is close since the temperature is well within range?


----------



## efrie

Alright, I've overclocked some stuff before but it's been a while since I've gotten back into the game and I don't think I'm getting the performance I should... I just don't know where to start with the OC'ing on this board, here are my specs:

-E6750
-P5N-E SLI
-2GB (2x1GB) Crucial Ballistix 800Mhz 4-4-4-12 (That's not what they're running at)
-2x EVGA 8800GT 512MB KO

I would like to run the processor at around 3.2-3.5Ghz, and I know how to figure out the math to do that, it's not that complicated, but I don't know what else to set up, like what is the SLI ready memory option, etc.

I'm using the 0803 BIOS, by the way.

I've been playing around with it all day today and I can't seem to actually get it stable. If I manually adjust the ram timings to 4-4-4-12 2T it doesn't run.

I also have an Arctic Cooler Freezer Pro 7 heatsink on my CPU.


----------



## quaffapint

Anyone out there in P5N-E land, know how to get this board to have Vista x64 show 4gb of RAM, when you have 4 ram sticks installed (4 x 1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracers)? The BIOS shows it fine, but in Vista, I only get 3.1gb showing (the rest gets sucked up by my pci-x card apparently).

I heard you need a BIOS that supports 'memory remapping', but I can't find that option anywhere.

Am I simply SOL?









Thanks...


----------



## Gauvenator

Sure you don't have vista 32? If not, I think there was an update to fix this in x64, but I'm not 100% on that.


----------



## quaffapint

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Sure you don't have vista 32? If not, I think there was an update to fix this in x64, but I'm not 100% on that.

Thanks for the reply, Gauvenator...

I'm definitely sure I'm running Vista Ultimate 64bit. The Technet article says I need to set 'Memory Remapping' in the BIOS, but I can't seem to find such an option, at least in 0608 version.

Anyone able to get Vista or XP 64 bit to show full 4gb on this board?









Thanks again...


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quaffapint*


Thanks for the reply, Gauvenator...

I'm definitely sure I'm running Vista Ultimate 64bit. The Technet article says I need to set 'Memory Remapping' in the BIOS, but I can't seem to find such an option, at least in 0608 version.

Anyone able to get Vista or XP 64 bit to show full 4gb on this board?









Thanks again...


http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777


----------



## quaffapint

Quote:



Originally Posted by *P1MP1NJ*


http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777










Thanks, but that's just to get Vista installed. I have Vista x64 installed (and I installed this patch, just to be sure), but still shows only 3.15GB available.

Do you have 4gb showing as available in Vista x64 System Information ?

Thanks...


----------



## APC Boss

im pretty new here ! i was just wandering about getting new cpu for this board e6850 or q6600? what overclocks better and how much of a difference does the double size cache make for now?anyway just a thought ?wich cpu has more avantages over the other on a p5ne-sli


----------



## MaKe OuT

RAM Question.

this board says memory standard is ddr2 @ 800MHz. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131142

is it a waste of money to get ram that is greater than pc6400?
for example, pc8500...would buying something like this be a waste of money?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148070

also, if buying the above memory is a waste because of the limitations of the P5N-E mobo, is it possible to overclock my pc6400 over 800MHz.

Thanks for the help people.


----------



## MaKe OuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *APC Boss*


im pretty new here ! i was just wandering about getting new cpu for this board e6850 or q6600? what overclocks better and how much of a difference does the double size cache make for now?anyway just a thought ?wich cpu has more avantages over the other on a p5ne-sli


you have some reading to do. look through this thread. i have the e6850 now and i originally had the q6600. i could not get the quad past 2.88GHz and i have the dual at 3.6GHz. both chips run nice on this board and which chip to buy depends on what you use your computer for.


----------



## davidisflash

has anyone been able to get to 1600 FSB with the e6600 processor, DDR2 800 memory, and the original NB heatsink?

Please help me get past my ~1520 FSB block.


----------



## arek23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT* 
you have some reading to do. look through this thread. i have the e6850 now and i originally had the q6600. i could not get the quad past 2.88GHz and i have the dual at 3.6GHz. both chips run nice on this board and which chip to buy depends on what you use your computer for.

Hi,

Could you write your bios settings for running q6600 @2.88?


----------



## arek23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooddog* 
Prime 95 ran all night, so I am done tinkering with this (for a while







).

I am a noob so take all this with that in mind...it was a lot of trial and error and I may have done something stupid

1. bios 803
2. memory (4x1G OCZ) - I made sure the timings were right by running memtest for a couple of runs with the CPU at standard speed.
3. fsb at 1399. Call it superstition, but someone else also noted that odd numbers seem to work better.
4. memory was set to linked/sync. I think this is really important. When I was running unlinked, I could boot, but vista had trouble loading.
5. voltage at 1.35625
6. offset .1
7. memory voltage at 2.175
8. NB at 1.56 (I think this is more needed due to running 4 sticks).
9. fan on NB and I did the Mosfet cooling (found in this thread).
10. No pencil mod (yet)
11. Zalman 9700

CPU temps are fine. low 50s at full load after 7 hours.
NB was at low 50s...I don't know if that is okay.

What I saw was that there did seem to be a rather large hole in the FSB. so i just tried a much higher number and worked down from there.

Hi,
Do you think it is relevant that you had BIOS in v803? Mine is 703 and in 803 they added support for 1333 Mhz CPUs, so maybe this is helpful...?
I did manage to run my q6600 at 2.8, but sometimes its difficult to boot the system. Is 2.8 in the gap you mentioned?

Thanks


----------



## markt

I have q6600 at 3.2.(same mobo).my settings are;356x9.-1.4 vcore-1.92 ram-1.57 NB.sinked and linked (ram runs at a comfortable 712mhz)


----------



## arek23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *markt*


I have q6600 at 3.2.(same mobo).my settings are;356x9.-1.4 vcore-1.92 ram-1.57 NB.sinked and linked (ram runs at a comfortable 712mhz)


And which version of bios have you got?


----------



## efrie

Alright I have mine running very stable at 3.2Ghz now:

0803 Bios
1600Mhz FSB
800Mhz Memory
I have the FSB/Memory Linked and set to sync so they're running at 1:1 and it's perfectly stable, I also have my timings set at 4-4-4-12 2T.

Arctic Freezer Pro 7 and factory NB heatsink.

I left the voltages to auto and they seem to be alright.


----------



## instinct28

I notice that there are holes near the Mosfets of the p5n-e. Like it's made for a heatsink to be put on them.

Anyone know witch heatsink fits there?

thanks


----------



## markt

my bios, 0608 i think.


----------



## marsey99

hey guys, geuss im a bit late to this party, 545 pages late, but i have only just found this site. man i wish i had a while back as it might of helped me with my overclock.

what i was wondering was, what bios most people are using now and which will i need to run 4gb under vista 64 bit?

i am on 0404 atm as its been great for me.

thanks.


----------



## arek23

I flashed my bios 703->803, and I noticed OC potential decreased immensly. Previously I could set it to 2.8 stable, and now I can't set it higgher than 2.57. What a ****y bios...







Is there a way to downgrade it back to 703? When I tried to do that with EZ flash 2it didn't allow me saying that downgrade is not allowed


----------



## hanwik

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arek23* 
I flashed my bios 703->803, and I noticed OC potential decreased immensly. Previously I could set it to 2.8 stable, and now I can't set it higgher than 2.57. What a ****y bios...







Is there a way to downgrade it back to 703? When I tried to do that with EZ flash 2it didn't allow me saying that downgrade is not allowed









having a similar problem, upgraded mine from 0608 to 0803 because i heard it had positive effects from some people, but for me it actually decreased, i still cant run my gskill 6400CL4D-2GBPK in dual channel mode, and on 0608 i had my Q6600 G0 stable at 2,93ghz, now it isn't stable at all, even without oc, and the highest bootable oc i can get now is 2,6 ghz, I tried 4 different ways to downgrade, ez-flash, awdflash, asusupdate and afudos without success


----------



## tankman12

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Yeah because even when I was using stock cooler + AS5, and my ambients are ... umm the dorm thermostats set to 24C, so say 70F, my idle was around 30C.

Well, I just rigged/installed a 120cm fan on the side door of my cheap case and my temps have dropped almost 10Â°c. My idle is now around 32-33Â° and load is around 58Â°c. So its getting better. I plan on rigging a discharge type fan on the top of my case. Maybe that will help my temps some more.


----------



## arek23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hanwik* 
having a similar problem, upgraded mine from 0608 to 0803 because i heard it had positive effects from some people, but for me it actually decreased, i still cant run my gskill 6400CL4D-2GBPK in dual channel mode, and on 0608 i had my Q6600 G0 stable at 2,93ghz, now it isn't stable at all, even without oc, and the highest bootable oc i can get now is 2,6 ghz, I tried 4 different ways to downgrade, ez-flash, awdflash, asusupdate and afudos without success

It looks like the guys from asus missed something. I hope next version of bios will solve this problem. Should I dare installing it, it's possible I won't be able to get it higher than stock 2.4 and still won't be able to downgrade it...
This mobo is a bit disappointment to me and I wouldn't recommend it for quad core users at all!


----------



## markt

This board has a capatible ram list on1-18 of the user guide.gskill isnt listed. doesnt mean its the problem but if you have even any other ram to try it might be worth it.


----------



## hanwik

I got the solution to go back from 803 to any previous version:

awdflash 0608 /sn /py /f


----------



## efrie

Alright, scratch the 3.2Ghz...










It's all cooled by air, I also have two eVGA 8800GT KO edition cards.

I have the FSB/MEM set to unlinked, left memory at 800Mhz and upped the FSB. Timings are 4-4-4-12 2T. CPU cooler is Arctic Freezer Pro 7


----------



## tonedeaf

that is very nice *thumbs up*
my 6750 is at 3.6 as well but i only scractch 10k with 3dmark06 with a 8800gts (320mb). what temps are you on idle and load? and what re was 3dmark at?


----------



## davidisflash

At 1466 FSB / 733 MEM, Vcore at ~1.46, NV at 1.3xx (reduced from 1.5xx), I ran orthos for 15 hours straight. CPU cores at 56







. Also, first temp in speedfan which I believe is the NB was at 49, which is good.

I was using 803 BIOS. Just reverted back to 608. Sounds like you guys like that one better for overclocking. Maybe it'll let me break my ~1530 FSB limit.


----------



## arek23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hanwik* 
I got the solution to go back from 803 to any previous version:

awdflash 0608 /sn /py /f

Thanks, I'll try that when I'm back from work. It's also worth trying older bioses - if 703 was faster than 803, why 603 shouldn't be better than 703


----------



## davidisflash

I CAN BOOT 1600 FSB, 1:1 WITH 608 BIOS!!! This is awesome! Everyone, get this BIOS...nothing newer, nothing older. It's tempting to get 701 as it says improved Mem compatibility. This may affect some users, but in my case, my overclock is WAY better.

Testing for stability now


----------



## davidisflash

Can you guys help me get stable at 1600 FSB, 1:1? Once I start Orthos, it always fails after like 3-4 seconds...either it just stops or the system restarts.

I've tried Vcore 1.55, I've tried Vcore at 1.45 + 100mV, I've tried NB voltage at both 1.3x and 1.5x. Mem is at rated settings. I've tried relaxing timings to 5-5-5-15.

Can anyone figure out other reasons why this is an issue? It can't be temps...the test doesn't even have enough time to heat up my parts! 4 seconds of testing followed by a failure is rather quick.

Thanks.


----------



## marsey99

i get massive vdroop once i go above 1.5v and im sure thats your problem too, its due tothere being no cooling on the volt regs on this board. i read in an earlier post that someone else has seen the holes for mounting a heatsink of some kind over them behind the cpu socket but he like i was also unable to find one that would fit.

i think that is what is crashing you at 3.6ghz.


----------



## RaiDer

Hey dudes will this board support the new Quad Core Yorkfield CPU's, last I knew it was supposed to then I heard alot of rumours.

So I'm asking, will this mobo support the Q9450, cause I'm going to pre-order one this weekend. Come hell or high water.


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *efrie*


Alright I have mine running very stable at 3.2Ghz now:

0803 Bios
1600Mhz FSB
800Mhz Memory
I have the FSB/Memory Linked and set to sync so they're running at 1:1 and it's perfectly stable, I also have my timings set at 4-4-4-12 2T.

Arctic Freezer Pro 7 and factory NB heatsink.

I left the voltages to auto and they seem to be alright.


would you be able to help me with the same setup to clock it to that ?


----------



## Procol

Hello at the momment i got 2gb ram in my pc but i would like to have 3gb.
And my problem is i cant get 3gb working stable on my pc,my pc start getting errors after a few hours gaming.
I would be really pleased if somebody could list up a few things i could try to do to get it working.
And btw im using transcend ram that i supported in the manual.

Thx for help


----------



## Perry

As a rule I don't think I'll ever run any more than 2 sticks of memory at any given time because people seem to be reporting problems with just about any mobo, especially this one. It's picky enough with memory as it is.

What type of errors are you getting? Errors in MemTest, BSOD's, etc.

Try the extra stick in the other slot and see what happens.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Procol*


Hello at the momment i got 2gb ram in my pc but i would like to have 3gb.
And my problem is i cant get 3gb working stable on my pc,my pc start getting errors after a few hours gaming.
I would be really pleased if somebody could list up a few things i could try to do to get it working.
And btw im using transcend ram that i supported in the manual.

Thx for help


Make sure you run memtest for a while, probably overnight would be fine.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


i get massive vdroop once i go above 1.5v and im sure thats your problem too, its due tothere being no cooling on the volt regs on this board. i read in an earlier post that someone else has seen the holes for mounting a heatsink of some kind over them behind the cpu socket but he like i was also unable to find one that would fit.

i think that is what is crashing you at 3.6ghz.


Thanks dude. Can you or someone clarify where these are located? I have an 80mm fan I could just suspend in air to blow over it. Can you guys maybe provide a screenshot?

Thanks again









What's Vdroop? Too much Vfluctuation?


----------



## Gauvenator

Vdroop is when under load the vcore voltage drops. Say you have 1.5 in the bios, under load you might see 1.45. Altho on this board I think some people have reported vdroop of more than .1

I think the vdroop on this board is due to the 3 phase power. (not 100% on that, maybe someone could verify?) That 3phase power is also why it is so hard to oc quads on this board too.

idk if these will fit but you could try an HR-09 for the mosfets. But I think other people have just stuck small heatsinks on them. Scroll down here for some dimensions/drawings.


----------



## tankman12

Well, heres my new o/c. 3.23ghz. CPU Idle temp is about 34 and load is 58-59. Not too bad I quess.


----------



## arek23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hanwik* 
I got the solution to go back from 803 to any previous version:

awdflash 0608 /sn /py /f

And what to do if I don't have a floppy drive?


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *arek23* 
And what to do if I don't have a floppy drive?

You can use your original P5n-e-sli CD to install the asus update utility. Then go to ASUS's website, to the download section, and download your BIOS. In the tool, go to "options" and select the option allowing you to downgrade your BIOS.

This is assuming you can boot to Windows of course







You should not have to use a floppy.


----------



## davidisflash

Can someone tell me where the voltage regs are on the board so I can cool them?


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidisflash*


Can someone tell me where the voltage regs are on the board so I can cool them?


Found via Google Image search:


----------



## arek23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidisflash*


You can use your original P5n-e-sli CD to install the asus update utility. Then go to ASUS's website, to the download section, and download your BIOS. In the tool, go to "options" and select the option allowing you to downgrade your BIOS.

This is assuming you can boot to Windows of course







You should not have to use a floppy.


Yes, I tried that and there is no option to download bios from the internet. And when i try ding it from a file it complains that something is incompatible...


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MaKe OuT*


RAM Question.

this board says memory standard is ddr2 @ 800MHz. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131142

is it a waste of money to get ram that is greater than pc6400?
for example, pc8500...would buying something like this be a waste of money?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148070

also, if buying the above memory is a waste because of the limitations of the P5N-E mobo, is it possible to overclock my pc6400 over 800MHz.

Thanks for the help people.


It is possible but it all depends on your RAM. My Geil Ultra cant do any more than 800Mhz and its not to much for me to upgrade to some Crucial Ballistixs 1066Mhz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaiDer*


Hey dudes will this board support the new Quad Core Yorkfield CPU's, last I knew it was supposed to then I heard alot of rumours.

So I'm asking, will this mobo support the Q9450, cause I'm going to pre-order one this weekend. Come hell or high water.


It will not and the 680i boards wont either. The 7*0i boards do since they addressed that problem.


----------



## Ravin

My rig died a couple of days ago, and I just got to troubleshooting. Looks like I have a dead stick of RAM. One works fine in all slots, the other does not work at all. Lucky me....I have some old 2x1Gb PC2/4200 laying around. Till then it's RMA for the Ballistix.


----------



## Peroxide

I'm sad, mine is sitting in it's box beside my desk waiting for the rest of my parts to arrive.


----------



## gooddog

What is the right CPU vcore?

I set vcore in the BIOS.
Under no load when I run coretemp it reports a VID which is much lower.

I know I shouldn't do more than 1.5 vcore but I don't know which is the right one to measure against.

Thanks!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooddog* 
What is the right CPU vcore?

I set vcore in the BIOS.
Under no load when I run coretemp it reports a VID which is much lower.

I know I shouldn't do more than 1.5 vcore but I don't know which is the right one to measure against.

Thanks!

CoreTemp shows the default voltage for your particular processor. Try SpeedFan for an actual vcore reading.


----------



## gooddog

thanks!

But I am confused...speedfan seems to report temps way lower than that of Coretemp!

What is the most reliable temp reading program?


----------



## Gauvenator

post what all the temps it reads are and then those of CoreTemp too.

you might just be looking at the wrong sensors.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


My rig died a couple of days ago, and I just got to troubleshooting. Looks like I have a dead stick of RAM. One works fine in all slots, the other does not work at all. Lucky me....I have some old 2x1Gb PC2/4200 laying around. Till then it's RMA for the Ballistix.


sorry to hear that. hope it works out


----------



## gooddog

Here is an easy one...

When people say the Q6600 shouldn't have more than 1.5v I assume that is how much CPU-Z reads at idle and NOT what you set in the bios?

In bios I set it to 1.48
In CPU-Z it reads 1.44 (idle)

Just want to make sure I have enough breathing room.
Thanks!

Oh and on the temps, Speedfan has CPU-0 through CPU-3 so I assume those are the right ones. I read else where that Speedfan is off by around 15c so it looks like it does underreport temps on the CPU.

Both TAT and Core temp report similar temps.


----------



## DonNiger

Hi,

Cann't find the 0503 bios anywhere, could anybody post a link here?


----------



## P1MP1NJ

got 4gb of ballistix running with a Q6600
memory voltage 2.259
NB 1.393
FSB linked 5:4 1066x853.3
5
5
5
15
2t
also make sure you disable things like legacy usb


----------



## marsey99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooddog*


Here is an easy one...

When people say the Q6600 shouldn't have more than 1.5v I assume that is how much CPU-Z reads at idle and NOT what you set in the bios?


inside os sessors should only be used as a guide, if you want to know what volts are running thru your board you really need to get a circuit tester and check it. this mobo tends to overvolt slighlty so if i set mine for 1.42v (my 24/7setting) it will really push 1.44v thru my cpu and it will drop to around 1.42 under load.

they tend to say keep a quad under 1.5v due to the heat it crates, if you was running your chip under phase or such 1.5v would not be an issue. the better your cooling the more volts it can take as you can deal with the heat it makes.

edit

@don

0503 was a beta bios and it was pants, 0505 was the released version.


----------



## davidisflash

Vegetta-

Thanks for posting that image







I found some heatsinks at work that fit just right on the voltage regulators. I covered all but the ones for Vdimm since I'm not overclocking memory that much...yet









I am now stable at 1600!!! Here's what I did:

FSB was linked with memory (Sync setting) at 1600
Vcore was at 1.46xxx
NB was at 1.5xxx
no 100mV
memory at stock voltage / timings
I had to reduce CPU multiplier from 9 to 8 to finally get stable

Here's where I was confused. The NB max temp was like 51-52 which I thought was livible, but I wouldn't want anything higher. However, when I came into the room after Orthos ran fine for 8 hours, Core temps were around 57-58. This is GREAT, but I remember at one point during the tests early in the test (after like 3-4 hours), temps were staying around 61-62 for awhile, hit 63-64 for a few seconds, then dropped again. Orthos didn't appear to be paging.

What do you guys think? To me it looks like my temps and such are great.

I am now testing 1633, and it looks good so far







I probably will now put on the heatsinks for Vdimm since now my memory is starting to get overclocked.

Also, I'm just trying to figure out when to stop pushing the FSB. Do you guys just stop when you are stable and your temps don't go above like 64-65 or so? I'm just trying to see what's the inflection point where the little extra push isn't worth it. After I do this, I'll then starting pushing the mem.

Thanks,

D-Flash


----------



## seantheman

Hello, I have a quick question. I am somewhat of a noob at overclocking, and I was wondering, I have an intel chip in this p5n-e sli motherboard, what overclocking settings should I use? Right now, i'm just using the ai overclock to get a 20% boost, and my cpu multiplier is at x12. I don't want to melt anything, but I do have decent cooling. Can any1 help plz?

Much appreciated

Oh ya, my intel cpu is 2.4ghz core 2 duo


----------



## rsfkevski

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seantheman*


Hello, I have a quick question. I am somewhat of a noob at overclocking, and I was wondering, I have an intel chip in this p5n-e sli motherboard, what overclocking settings should I use? Right now, i'm just using the ai overclock to get a 20% boost, and my cpu multiplier is at x12. I don't want to melt anything, but I do have decent cooling. Can any1 help plz?

Much appreciated

Oh ya, my intel cpu is 2.4ghz core 2 duo


Please fill in your system specifications in your profile, thanks


----------



## seantheman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rsfkevski* 
Please fill in your system specifications in your profile, thanks









ok did it can help now plz?


----------



## daniel_in_black

Just thought I'd throw in some quick info. Although G.Skill F2-6400CL4D is not on the QVL, I've been running two gigs of it fine and dandy for a year now. Well, with the price of RAM dropping, I added two more gigs for a total of 4. I COULD NOT get it stable until I loosened up the timings to 5-5-5-12-20 2T from its 4-4-4-12 defaults. I also flashed to BIOS 0703 through the ASUS Update in Windows as EZ Flash would not work under any circumstances.

Just a tip for anyone else running this ram and looking to add more.


----------



## marsey99

i watch for my cpu to start throttling itself and if it does it means its too hot and i then try to drop the voltage to a threshold bellow the point it starts. this is different with every cpu regardless of rating.

i dont see the point in having a cpu that can only idle at 4.0ghz but as soon as i put it underload it drops to 3.2ghz because it cant stand the heat(not mine but i have read about others having this happen).


----------



## phantasm

hey people i will buy e6750 and want high oc with water cooling. is P5n-E SLI the board for me??


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


i watch for my cpu to start throttling itself and if it does it means its too hot and i then try to drop the voltage to a threshold bellow the point it starts. this is different with every cpu regardless of rating.

i dont see the point in having a cpu that can only idle at 4.0ghz but as soon as i put it underload it drops to 3.2ghz because it cant stand the heat(not mine but i have read about others having this happen).


Yo, were you responding to me? If so, I wouldn't be throttling the CPU since when I'm determining max overclock, CPU EIST function is disabled.


----------



## sherpa_man

ok so i have me new akasa evo 98 cooler so i wanna start having a bit of a play i would like to get me q6600 to 2.9 that should be ok on a good air cooler shouldnt it ? id just like some pointers to help me out cheers my bios is 060

what kind of temp should i be getting on a q6600 with this cooler ?

fan speen reads
51
51
48
48
this is just why im on the net writng this message that sound right ?


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


ok so i have me new akasa evo 98 cooler so i wanna start having a bit of a play i would like to get me q6600 to 2.9 that should be ok on a good air cooler shouldnt it ? id just like some pointers to help me out cheers my bios is 060

what kind of temp should i be getting on a q6600 with this cooler ?

fan speen reads
51
51
48
48
this is just why im on the net writng this message that sound right ?


lol didnt take the plastic thing of now idle at 16 per core


----------



## gooddog

Can someone briefly explain the meaning of TDP on processors? I know it is how much power they deal with, but the question is if I have two processors that exactly identical except for TDP, which is the better processor? The one with the lower TDP or the higher TDP?
Especially if overclocking.
thanks


----------



## marsey99

lowwer tdp tends to be better for ocing as its the heat it passes into the heatsink, but it dont mean the chip will be a better ocer.

@dave
its not eist, its thermal control inside the cpu that controls throttling.

edit

@phantasm

im not sure if you will get any higher from this as you will from the one you have now as its a good clocker too.


----------



## gooddog

marsey99 said:


> lowwer tdp tends to be better for ocing as its the heat it passes into the heatsink, but it dont mean the chip will be a better ocer.
> 
> Thanks!
> Reason I am asking is that I am trying to figure out what my next processor should be:
> 
> Q9650 3.0G, with 135W or wait for the much cheaper
> Q9550 2.83 with 95W
> 
> 40W difference seems way huge considering the marginal increase in speed and the unlock feature. Am I missing something? I don't mind spending the extra money if there is that much of a difference.
> 
> besides a hobbiest, I use the system for video and photoediting so I like 4 cores.
> 
> thanks!


----------



## OptimusPrime

E8400 FTW !!!!!!! Should i Flash Bios First !!!????

Can anyone give me some advice. I haven't put this thing together yet. But i'm wondering if i should attempt to flash the bios to the most recent so that i dont have a problem with this CPU??... I haven't used the board yet at all, .. ! I can't Wait !!!

I just got the P5N from Newegg for Christmas..


----------



## davidisflash

Thanks Marsey...I don't think my processor was tripping the thermal control as after 8 hours, it appeared to be going at the same speed, and temp was under 60.

Are you guys using an intake fan to cool the NB? It seems like mine doesn't really affect the temp of the NB much. I tried two different fans, one having much more CFM than the other, and the temps are about the same.

Should I maybe make it outtake? I was thinking putting the fan on the left of NB so that it blows the air directly to the outtake fan on the back of the case.

Thanks.


----------



## Gauvenator

gooddog said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marsey99*
> 
> 
> lowwer tdp tends to be better for ocing as its the heat it passes into the heatsink, but it dont mean the chip will be a better ocer.
> 
> Thanks!
> Reason I am asking is that I am trying to figure out what my next processor should be:
> 
> Q9650 3.0G, with 135W or wait for the much cheaper
> Q9550 2.83 with 95W
> 
> 40W difference seems way huge considering the marginal increase in speed and the unlock feature. Am I missing something? I don't mind spending the extra money if there is that much of a difference.
> 
> besides a hobbiest, I use the system for video and photoediting so I like 4 cores.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> 
> If you want a quad, this is not the board for it. Not many can get a Q6600 past even 3ghz on this board because of the 3phase power.


----------



## markt

Im at 3.2 with b3 revision its not even a GO. And i was higher than that .Stable.I'll admit its harder than a dual core to OC but you have to test multiple settings but I think I could hit 3.6.But this pc does everything Exceptuionally well.There are better boards but for 125$.shh...t.I rest my case.Attachment 64132

Attachment 64133


----------



## gooddog

Gauvenator said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gooddog*
> 
> 
> If you want a quad, this is not the board for it. Not many can get a Q6600 past even 3ghz on this board because of the 3phase power.
> 
> 
> I agree. I did get to 3.1 on this board with the quad but only after sacrificing a chicken.
> 
> I am looking at for another system and just got the P5E.
> 
> Thoughts on the processor and this power question?
> 
> Thanks


----------



## markt

To Keep it stable a little better I added the +100mV. temps rise but then I added 2x 80mm fans .got temps to 43-47c idle . max 53,54c load


----------



## Gauvenator

So I've been OC'ing more, and I think the northbridge is holding me back from more than ~1670fsb.

Is it OK for me to go for 1.5v with the stock cooler on the nb?


----------



## gooddog

I was fine with 1.56 on the NB using the stock cooler


----------



## Gauvenator

Long term?


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Long term?

I would not recommend it I just got this and I did a lot of reading and its supposedly the best cooler but I would even be hesitant to run it at 1.56v after being reseated with AS5 I had a CPU strapped to mine and at the stock voltage it was at a constant 60C


----------



## gooddog

Quote:



Originally Posted by *P1MP1NJ*


I would not recommend it I just got this and I did a lot of reading and its supposedly the best cooler but I would even be hesitant to run it at 1.56v after being reseated with AS5 I had a CPU strapped to mine and at the stock voltage it was at a constant 60C










I've run 1.56 overnight with Prime95 okay...or maybe it isn't okay. The board was stable but how do I know which temperature the NB is?

For AI suite is it "system" or is the the motherboard itself?
Speedfan isn't useful (a bunch of negative temps and the 4 cpu temps).

thanks!


----------



## marsey99

anything above 3ghz on this mobo witha a quad is good going,i guess you have really good ambient temps or great airflow thru your case?

i first fitted a 60mm fan to my stock nb heatsink but i have since replaced it, i was looking at thi one but ended up with one of these after i read a review that said it was 2c cooler after prolonged use than the thermalright but i also have the same 60mm fan tied to it so its always frosty. mobo nb never gets to 40c now and cools in seconds. im looking for somthing to cool the power regs now to really see how it helps as i know i can get this cpu to 3.6ghz then i will move on to my next project.

im sure you could find my hs cheaper elsewhere but it was the first link i found with it for sale in the states.


----------



## sherpa_man

im trying to get my q6600 to 2.8 what should my vcore be ?


----------



## marsey99

not much above stock, if any, maybe .025v more. depends from chip to chip. i can hit 3ghz on stock volts but mine only a duo.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
im trying to get my q6600 to 2.8 what should my vcore be ?

Check the VID in Coretemp. This is the "stock" vCore- mine is 1.2875V. Also note- you can try to use a lower setting than this, which I found helpful with OCing my GO quad. 1.22V is all I need for a stable 3.0GHz..... 0.0675V less than spec. which also helps temps!


----------



## sherpa_man

so realy i just need to put me fsb to 1333 wich puts me cpu a 3ghz and have a play with the voltage ?


----------



## Peroxide

Does this motherboard have a jumper start or anything?

I don't exactly have a case yet.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


so realy i just need to put me fsb to 1333 wich puts me cpu a 3ghz and have a play with the voltage ?


You can certainly try- once I locked my ram in @ 1000MHz (stock) with 4-3-3-6 2T(enhanced timings) I hit 1333MHz on the first shot. I think I was @ 1.28 V and worked my way down from there.


----------



## gooddog

be careful about comparing results and settings from a quad vs. dual. on this board it is very, very different.


----------



## sherpa_man

so how can i clock my quad to 3ghz but keep me ram settings the same ?


----------



## russbelluk

hi dudes/dudettes, i have 2x512mb of crucial ballistix on my mobo, bought another 2x512mb or the same and i was getting BSOD's and address errors,

i have requested an RMA for this ram, but i was just wondering whether this is/was a known problem with this board for this memory configuration,

is the crucial stuff the best for this board or is there anything else that works better as i'm not going to upgrade my mobo for a bit as we will be supporting the 45nm processors.

cheers asusheads


----------



## davidisflash

What BIOS are you using Russ? The first couple BIOS releases had issues with 4 DIMMs populated on the board.


----------



## russbelluk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *davidisflash* 
What BIOS are you using Russ? The first couple BIOS releases had issues with 4 DIMMs populated on the board.

0608 bios version number


----------



## davidisflash

that is the best BIOS right now IMO. from what I've read though, I think if you can, use only 2 DIMMs since 4 may still have problems. Try relaxing your timings...usually more memory will incur more latency.


----------



## russbelluk

my timings are 4-4-4-12 2T, i did try 5-5-5-15 2T before, what do u suggest

oh, i've just remembered another problem this memory was givin me, in the bios, sometimes it was slow at moving between menus.


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## oogravyoo

Hi, have a quick question if someone can answer..

I have built a system for a friend consisting of..

OCZ GAMER XSTREAM 600W sli
Asus P5n-e Sli lga 775
C2D 6550
2x2gb Gskill DDR2 800
Asus 8800gt
Seagate barracuda 7200 250gb sata
Lite on 20x DVD sata
Vista64

I Had trouble installing Vista64 it would get to the first load and blue screen on me.. I read somewhere to manually add the ram timings and voltage, after doing so I was able to load Vista. On the down side I still get random blue screens and from what I read and am guessing it might be an incompatibility with the ram..

anyone running this ram? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122

could someone let me know what the best setting in the bios I should be running this at?? there are alot of pages here kinda mind boggling..

thanks for your input..

GravY


----------



## davidisflash

Looks like ~1633 is my safest, stable, temp-friendly best. I think I'm gonna stick with it









I have decent RAM (see my specs below)...this 2x 1GB Ballistix Tracer kit is 4-4-4-12 at 2.2V. I've set my voltage to 2.4xxx because I figured this is the highest I probably should go now since I want to overclock my memory.

I'm stable at 3-3-3-8. My Sandra scores didn't go up that much. My bandwidth efficiency only increased a couple percent, and Sandra gives a warning indicating that my efficiency is low and that I should check my settings.

Anyone familiar with SiSoft Sandra mem benchmark? Why on earth would my mem bandwidth be inefficient right now? My overclocks are stable, the mem has only been overclocked from 800 to ~816. Timings are stable. I SHOULD be in dual channel mode too (my two DIMMs are in the left most slots, the slots closest to the CPU).

Please help!

D-Flash


----------



## davidisflash

omg i am ******ed...that is NOT dual channel mode







I changed my DIMMs, they are now in the yellow slots...now my bandwidth went from like 40 to 52.78...no more complaints









Do you guys prefer yellow or black slots as far as stability, overclockability, etc....it seems like in my case, it wont make a difference


----------



## oogravyoo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oogravyoo*


Hi, have a quick question if someone can answer..

I have built a system for a friend consisting of..

OCZ GAMER XSTREAM 600W sli
Asus P5n-e Sli lga 775
C2D 6550
2x2gb Gskill DDR2 800
Asus 8800gt
Seagate barracuda 7200 250gb sata
Lite on 20x DVD sata
Vista64

I Had trouble installing Vista64 it would get to the first load and blue screen on me.. I read somewhere to manually add the ram timings and voltage, after doing so I was able to load Vista. On the down side I still get random blue screens and from what I read and am guessing it might be an incompatibility with the ram..

anyone running this ram? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122

could someone let me know what the best setting in the bios I should be running this at?? there are alot of pages here kinda mind boggling..

thanks for your input..

GravY


I am running Orthos on the system at stock settings right now im at 3.5hrs with no faults, wonder if something else in my system might not be stable.. hmm..


----------



## marsey99

@russ

up your nb volts and try again

@ori

unlink your ram and set it to stock timings and voltage and just work you cpu for now.


----------



## russbelluk

Marsey99

I upped nb to 1.594 or woteva it is and put my memory timings on auto for now, so far so good, been running for 5 mins, no probs


----------



## hometoast

@russ, I actually had to underclock my HZs to 667 to get all 4 stick to run.


----------



## russbelluk

i looked in everest to see wot my timings were set to and they were 5-4-4-17 2T, so i set them in my bios to them, play the sims 2 for a couple of hrs with no problems, could u say that this has sorted the problem out???? cuz iof so, then i need to cancel the rma request on them


----------



## sherpa_man

Ok stress testing it a 3.15ghz what am i looking for as fare as temps go ? also vcore at 1.312 ? that sound ok ?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sherpa_man*


Ok stress testing it a 3.15ghz what am i looking for as fare as temps go ? also vcore at 1.312 ? that sound ok ?


If you have a B3 revision your max CPU temp is 60C. If its a G0 your max is 70C. Max "safe" vCore defined by intel is 1.5V Somewhere near 3.2Ghz the stability response vs. vCore changes for the Q6600, and significantly more voltages may need applied......ie. @3.15GHz you may need 1.3V, but at 3.16GHz you may need 1.42V. Keep this in mind.

Also keep in mind that 3.0GHz is somewhat of an unofficial record for a quads on the P5NE-SLI, I have not found anyone who has gone higher, and few who got that high. You're heading into uncharted territory


----------



## OptimusPrime

edit:







..

gotta RMA my board... Hope i can still work this out with newegg.com


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## russbelluk

there was a guide on asus's forums that was very good, it was by a guy called John i think, not sure whether he included the quad cores in his guide or not, worth a look (if the asus site is working atm)

try giving more volts to your NB as that extra speed might need more power


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## sherpa_man

is there anyway of downgrading the bios back down to 0608 i have the file but when i try to flash the file it says not suitable


----------



## russbelluk

Ori

the pc will turn off when it gets too hot before it burns out, it has a heat threshold like a cpu does, the heatsink on the SB is a good idea, maybe a fan blowing cold air onto it could be a good idea, the NB will get hot too, as u have a fan on it that should help. your cpu being at 51c is fine as your max cpu temp is around the 70c mark for a G0

run PCProbe or something like that if your worried about temps as that will monitor while your stressing it


----------



## markt

I am at 3.2.Yes its difficult but possible.Attachment 64335


----------



## russbelluk

is that stable though, orthos, prime95, OCCTed


----------



## marsey99

improving the cooling on the mobo is the best way to help your oc, i have changed the nb heatsink and added one to the sb and it has helped me.
my messy mobo









just keep an eye on your mobo temp if your worried, but i have read about one guy having his at 55c for long periods of time only running at 3.2ghz.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *markt*


I am at 3.2.Yes its difficult but possible.Attachment 64335


is that 100% stable? I was able to hit 3.2 but was not stable. Later I modded the cooling for the MOSFETS but have not made another run above 3.0GHz for stability testing.


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## davidisflash

Here are two snapshots of my system


























Can you guys answer the following three questions?

1) why is it that when the radiator sits like that on the PC, I have my air bubble problem again, even when the radiator is off and the PC is just running. How do I resolve this?

2) Note that there is a fan blowing directly on my NB...should I move it (ie: to the right of my memory and blow towards the left to blow hot air to the back outtake)?

3) Any other recommendations you might have?

Thanks,

David


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidisflash*


Here are two snapshots of my system
















ocuments and SettingsdjmedawaDesktopP1230286.JPG[/IMG]







ocuments and SettingsdjmedawaDesktopP1230285.JPG[/IMG]

Can you guys answer the following three questions?

1) why is it that when the radiator sits like that on the PC, I have my air bubble problem again, even when the radiator is off and the PC is just running. How do I resolve this?

2) Note that there is a fan blowing directly on my NB...should I move it (ie: to the right of my memory and blow towards the left to blow hot air to the back outtake)?

3) Any other recommendations you might have?

Thanks,

David



Stupid pics didn't show, see the two attachments


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ori* 
These are my main working setting now but I'm happy with 3.1Ghz
Try these if you want and have a similar setup to me.

8x multiplier
Unlinked memory
Memory V= 2.013
Memory timings= 4-4-4-12 2T.
V Core= 1.38125
NB Core= 1563
+100mv

Use the guide on here and set everything else to the what the guide says.

So working with a 9x multiplier is very hit and miss. It either booted or it did not but if booted, it was unstable. It worked at bit better with the memory linked rather than unlinked.

I will probably do some more testing in a few days. TBH I don't really see the point in running prime95 for 24hrs like some say you should. I don't know anyone who run's there computer 24 hours a day at full load, unless you run a server or something. I may run it for about eight hours, just to make sure.











Good work. I see that your vDimm is 2.013- that is helpful; I found that if I underclocked/undervolted my memory that my CPU oc became more stable above 3.0GHz. Currently I run 2.17V on the dimm to keep the stock speed up for my RAM.

I also noted the opposite with the multiplier.....I could not get a stable OC with anything but 9x.

Some of us do run a full load 24/7. My rig folds continuously for team 37226!

Note....from previous observations: This board has a 3 phase power supply. While the voltages for the C2D and C2Q are the same, the amperage required for the C2Q is more than that of the C2D. The MOSFET regulators on this board are inadequate to provide enough current to OC a quad and run high vDimm and/or vNB at the same time. Some of us have found that adding cooling to the voltage regulators have helped on OC attempts. The best example is The Pook- took his C2D from 475 to 515 FSB by cooling the MOSFETS.


----------



## sherpa_man

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ori*


Thanks russ for all the info, help and marsey.









I haven't had much time for more testing but think I am on to a winner.

First I tried to move the FSB back up to 3.2 but windows just would not boot or it would just hang. I did increase the Vcore and NB but still the same problem. So I can't get it working with 3.2. I put it back to FSB=1550 and started to decrease the voltages on the Vcore and NB but it failed on testing,I got some windows error and the computer rebooted on OCCT. So I came to the conclusion that, the voltages was a bit to low. So thay are back up to almost what they was before and It passed another 30 min test on OCCT. See picture below. My temperatures did not go above 50c while testing and was between the 30 to 40c bracket idle.



These are my main working setting now but I'm happy with 3.1Ghz
Try these if you want and have a similar setup to me.

8x multiplier 
Unlinked memory
Memory V= 2.013
Memory timings= 4-4-4-12 2T. 
V Core= 1.38125
NB Core= 1563
+100mv

Use the guide on here and set everything else to the what the guide says.

So working with a 9x multiplier is very hit and miss. It either booted or it did not but if booted, it was unstable. It worked at bit better with the memory linked rather than unlinked.

I will probably do some more testing in a few days. TBH I don't really see the point in running prime95 for 24hrs like some say you should. I don't know anyone who run's there computer 24 hours a day at full load, unless you run a server or something. I may run it for about eight hours, just to make sure.











what bios are you using ? im having problems with 0803 !


----------



## micafranz

Hey guys I came across this forum while researching the mobo, it's full of tons of useful info so far. I got my mobo off of ebay, there's a guy that sells them "Buy It Now" for 89.99 ( used ). I can't wait to get it, right now I'm on a Dell XPS 400 stock... Decent, but not really. I'm going to use my Pentium D for the processor and my 6800 PCI-E until I upgrade. Lately I've been looking into OCing and Moding and this board looks like it's going to work great. The ebay seller stated that it has the latest bios update, so I should be good there. I'm running a 375W power supply, should this be enough??? I am slo going to try and get my buddies 6800 PCI-E card and SLI them, should be fairly quick eh? So i'm wondering if the Pentium D will be a decent processor for this board, if the 375W power supply is strong enough and if the dual 6800's will be fast enough for say... Bioshock at full settings. Also, what operating system should I get, I have XP & Vista 32 Ultimate right now, but I'm thinking of getting vista 64 ultimate. Any help would be appreciated! Also, what's the best (cost friendly) ram for this board??? Thanks!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
what bios are you using ? im having problems with 0803 !

IMO the best BIOS is 0608. I tried 0703 with bad results, 0801 and 0803 were not too much different from 0703.


----------



## jbobb

I know these questions have probably been done to death by now, but I it was hard to find my exact answers when there are so many posts here.

I am leary of OC'ing my pc beigns I have not done it before. Looking at my specs for my pc, could someone tell me what a safe OC would be for me without adding any additional cooling. I have read that with an e6420 some people have it up to 3.0-3.2ghz with stock cooling on the board.

I will definately be reseating my NB HS with some better thermal grease before doing this.

Can someone let me know with my setup, if I could (in their opinion) safely OC this pc to 3ghz on stock cooling?


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ori* 
I am using bios 0803. I updated it from 0703.

Well at the moment it's not looking good with prime95.

I have had it reboot while running the test and it has froze up. I get errors where it has to close. This was one of the errors I had just starting prime95. Prime95 did not even last 30 min like the OCCT test.











I don't have a clue what it means or what the problem is but it looks like, memory or a software problem.

Anyway I have had to put up the V core up again to 4.000 and am running prime95 again. I didn't want to do that because more volts= more heat.

Well It's just given me a BSOD and rebooted as I was typing this. I don't really know what to do now, apart from maybe lowering the FSB to about 3Ghz or maybe my memory can't take it.







What a pain.

Try stepping back one more BIOS (603 I believe)...this is my favorite one


----------



## texascbx

jbobb, you should be able to do 3.0Ghz with that rig and the proper settings.


----------



## davidisflash

Since my case was a mess (see my previous post on page 555), my memory wasn't getting any real ventilation, and because I suspected one of the water tube connections was loose (which it was), I cleaned up my case







See attached.

Because I reseated my heatsink for my CPU, it looks like my temps are doing a little better for it. However, my NB is still overheating...at 1633 FSB, load is at 54-55 for NB. This is even though I reseated it with AS Cermaique and have ventilation as you can see in the pic.

I'm contemplating if the SB water block I have will fit on the NB chipset, even though the NB takes a bigger heatsink. What do you guys think? I know my SB doesn't need water cooling; I just had the block from a previous board.

Thanks,

D


----------



## sherpa_man

just after abit of info im realy having problems clocking this q6600 on this board past 2.79 just cant get it stable so... i have 2 ideas do i just buy a qx6850 ? or maybe get a freezone and clock it to 3.4 on water cooled


----------



## sherpa_man

how do i roll back the bios it says its not suitable with a early bios in running 0803


----------



## jbobb

Another question for you guys. I checked ASUS Probe II this morning after my PC was on all night idling. My MB Temp was 41C. I'm not sure, but that seems high just idling all night, or am I wrong? Everything is still stock now and I have not reseated my NB HS yet. I'm guessing that should make a difference.

Also, I have a 120mm (out) fan on the back of my case, 1x80mm fan on the side (intake) and 1x80mm (out) fan on the top of my case. Would it make more sense to turn the one on the top as an intake fan instead and let the 120mm fan do all the outtake? Not sure if that would help with cooling or not.

I know that some steps to remove the NS HS have been posted to help get it off w/out breaking the clips, but I cant seem to find the tips. Can someone help me find the tips, or give me some tips to remove the stock NB HS w/out breaking it.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ori*


I might give that a try if I encounter more problems in the future but people are having problems with downgrading there bios.

I found this little bit of info on asus about downgrading your bios. They recon if all else fails, use asus update but only as a last resort. You will see why.

Quote from an asus Moderator.

Well anyway I have lowered my FSB to 1510, just over 3Ghz. I ran prime95 again and it lasted the longest of all my test, before windows just froze. 
Also The Vcore was at 1.39375
It lasted for about 4 hours, so I may leave it like that and hope it will work without to many problems. See picture of log below.



Sorry can't make it bigger but you should be able to magnify it.

It's from the part thats says,"Thu Jan 25 22:59:37 2007" Take no notice of the rest above it, as that was when it failed on the other settings.

I found a repost on another forum from the prime95 owner and they say that, just because prime95 freezes or you get a BSoD, don't mean your computer is not stable or hardware problems. So my last settings may be ok









See the first post here. http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/arc...hp?t-5968.html


You should be fine to use Asusupdate. I had no problems downgrading. But make sure Speedstep is turned off and that all other programs aren't running in the background.


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *davidisflash*


Since my case was a mess (see my previous post on page 555), my memory wasn't getting any real ventilation, and because I suspected one of the water tube connections was loose (which it was), I cleaned up my case







See attached.

Because I reseated my heatsink for my CPU, it looks like my temps are doing a little better for it. However, my NB is still overheating...at 1633 FSB, load is at 54-55 for NB. This is even though I reseated it with AS Cermaique and have ventilation as you can see in the pic.

I'm contemplating if the SB water block I have will fit on the NB chipset, even though the NB takes a bigger heatsink. What do you guys think? I know my SB doesn't need water cooling; I just had the block from a previous board.

Thanks,

D


Can someone please help me with this? My NB is still getting too hot. You can see the pics of my rig on page 556 in the threads.


----------



## marsey99

@david

try it and see, the worst you will do is have to refit it.

tbh that black is wasted on your sb as they dont get too hot or asus would put somthing on them as stock, i would consider getting a small hs for it and see how the block does on your nb.

just dont stress it and leave it, you want to see how it performs incase it cant handle the heat so you can stop it.

if that little sb block isnt upto the job get a nb one and put that in your loop instead of the sb.


----------



## sherpa_man

i cant downgrade my bios i have tried everything


----------



## davidisflash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


@david

try it and see, the worst you will do is have to refit it.

tbh that black is wasted on your sb as they dont get too hot or asus would put somthing on them as stock, i would consider getting a small hs for it and see how the block does on your nb.

just dont stress it and leave it, you want to see how it performs incase it cant handle the heat so you can stop it.

if that little sb block isnt upto the job get a nb one and put that in your loop instead of the sb.


Thanks marsey...someone finally responded to me









Yeah as I said the SB water block is wasted because I had it from an old system and didn't know I could use it on the NB. I thought that you have to cover the whole green part of a chip surrounding the center die, and you don't.

I'll move it and let you know.

marsey-

Can you provide your exact details on how you are trying to downgrade BIOS? I had no problems using the Asus update utility that came on my CD. I had to choose downgrade in the option menu for the tool since by default, it won't let you.


----------



## texascbx

To downgrade BIOS just use the ASUS flash utility that comes on the CD. You have to unzip the file for the flasher to see it.


----------



## roliax

Hi everyone, I've recently just built my first computer. Although I'm quite proficient in Computer Science, I don't deal with hardware that much nor do I spend time playing with the core of an OS or BIOS, only applications and programs in windows. Otherwise, when it comes to overclocking, I am a complete noobie and I need help overclocking my new system. Here are the specs:

OS: Vista Home Premium
CPU: Intel Q6600 2.4ghz
CPU fan: Zalman 9500
Mother board: P5N-E, 650i running phoenix-award, not sure about bios version
RAM: 4Gb OCZ PC-6400
GPU: 2x BFG 8800GT OC in SLI
HDD: Seagate 320gb SATA
PSU: Thermaltake 600W SLI ready
Case: Antec 900

Obviously, I built this as a gaming PC but also to double for my school. I ran 3DMark06 and scored ~125000. My bottleneck was the CPU. I understand quad-core doesn't necessarily perform better, but it seems like an overclock would help it alot.

Well, to the point. I've done some basic overclocking with my brother a long time ago. But everything seems so simple with that BIOS (can't remember version) because I could easily modify the CPU FSB and other options. In phoenix-award, I can't seem to find the CPU FSB and my CPU multiplier is locked at 9x (can go lower, however). I've tried tweaking the FSB and memory clocks in the Jumperfree Configs but resulted in my computer being unstable.

These are what I need help on:
1) How to overclock the CPU FSB.

2) What are the best FSB and memory clock speeds if I want to get my CPU to run at around 3.0ghz.

3) What are the best settings for memory latency.

4) And lastly, what are the optimal voltages for both CPU and RAM. This is something I have no experience with and DON'T want to tweak and mess up on.

As you can see, I don't really know what I'm doing so I need all the help I can get. Thanks!


----------



## markt

Try setting fsb at 1333 ,333x9,vcore 1.4v (cause of vdroop)link your ram, (666) hehe.You should put your system specs in tho, so i can see what your working with.If that doesnt work.tryu even 300 x9 to start.


----------



## Magoo Wu

I received my new Q6600 a few days ago (upgrade from a Pentium D 2.8 mwahaha) and I can't seem to get the thing faster than 2.8 without many glitches.

As of now I have just set the Overclock to Manual.
Change the memory to unlinked (leave it at 800)
And I change the FSB speed to 1244 (1244/4= 311Mhz*Multiplier of 9= 2.8Ghz)

If I try to push it beyond that then the comp will sometimes boot, sometimes not, but atleast always freezes at the ASUS screen. Lets just say I am getting very good at pulling the battery.

I have active cooling on North & Southbridge. A zalman 9700 cooler on the CPU. 850W PSU. 4 Gig of DDR2 PC800 Patriot Ram. A few HD's. And dual 7950 GT video cards.

Any thoughts to why this might be glitching out on me?

Should I manually tweak the voltage? Or will auto be sufficient?

Any thoughts would be a big help.

Thanks!


----------



## Magoo Wu

Reffering to my previous post.

Does anyone think it could be my version of BIOS that is messing this up?
It came pre-loaded with 0703, and I hear some of the older BIOS might be more stable.

I just want to get this processor past 3.0GHz which I *Know* it can do.


----------



## Drunkzerg

yes i have problem with my mobo also. I wanna to get pass 3ghz also to atleast 3.2ghz. Or i willing to take 3.1ghz lol ..I"M trying to get it stable at 3.1ghz right now but it keep failing Prime95. It run for 6-7 minutes then fatal error: and how do i open those stress.txt. in prime95?? or find to what cause the error?
Well here's the spec on my mobo of now:

mb: asus p5n32-e sli Bios revision 1203

cpu: Q6600 B3

mem: 2x2ghz corsair pc6400 800mhz

vc: 8800gtx

watercool: H20 swiftech

Setting in bios:
vcore: 1.4v
mem: 2.0v
NB: 1.35v
rest is on auto
mem timing: 5-5-5-15-2t
disabled all that needs to be disable in bios
Idle @ 43c load @58c on coretemp

I hope those temp and voltage are safe. Well any ideas or tip or setup that you think it '
might work for me, will help me very much. I still really new to these stuff so hoping i dont fried anything. THANKS!


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *roliax* 
<-snip->

OS: Vista Home Premium
CPU: Intel Q6600 2.4ghz
CPU fan: Zalman 9500
Mother board: P5N-E, 650i running phoenix-award, not sure about bios version
RAM: 4Gb OCZ PC-6400
GPU: 2x BFG 8800GT OC in SLI
HDD: Seagate 320gb SATA
PSU: Thermaltake 600W SLI ready
Case: Antec 900

Obviously, I built this as a gaming PC but also to double for my school. I ran 3DMark06 and scored ~125000. My bottleneck was the CPU. I understand quad-core doesn't necessarily perform better, but it seems like an overclock would help it alot.
<<-snip->>

can you tell me how you managed to boot 2x 8800gt in sli on this motherboard because they have the g93 series chips in the cards and require 16x pcie lanes in sli on the P5N-E sli it drops to 8X speed in sli mode so you lose major performance from your gpu's :-/

magoo i have the same chip as you i havent tried going past 3.0 ghz i have the go version i only overclocked it today i finished building my new rig this wednesday just gone specs below its been 6hours stable @ 3.0ghz 333x9 fsb i did have issues with my corsair ram timings i had to change to 2t because of bsod once i overclocked :-/

so im in the same boat as you and would also like to know if its because of the 0703 bios etc i think i still have the 6** bios somewhere :-/ and am willing to give it a try but am happy even at stock with the performance of my rig :-/


----------



## C2H6O

I know, I know, Vista's new Experience Index is a traveshamockery of computers, but it says that my ram is rated 4.7 vs. 5.9 with an extra GB ram. Anyone else have problems with this board with more than 2GB ram?
\hnx


----------



## Magoo Wu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
can you tell me how you managed to boot 2x 8800gt in sli on this motherboard because they have the g93 series chips in the cards and require 16x pcie lanes in sli on the P5N-E sli it drops to 8X speed in sli mode so you lose major performance from your gpu's :-/

magoo i have the same chip as you i havent tried going past 3.0 ghz i have the go version i only overclocked it today i finished building my new rig this wednesday just gone specs below its been 6hours stable @ 3.0ghz 333x9 fsb i did have issues with my corsair ram timings i had to change to 2t because of bsod once i overclocked :-/

so im in the same boat as you and would also like to know if its because of the 0703 bios etc i think i still have the 6** bios somewhere :-/ and am willing to give it a try but am happy even at stock with the performance of my rig :-/


Thanks for the info... well - I was ballsie and just jumped right into the specs you gave me.

Same everything (except I changed my memory timings to 4-4-4-12)
And the Memory Voltage Closer to 2.2v

I'm running a 3Dmark06 now and seems to be fine, I'll run Prime95 later and check the stability.

My guess what did it was the push up for the NB voltage, and maybe the +100mv offset....

Wait.... nevermind (*as I look over from my laptop to my test-in-progress on the main computer*) computer crashed and re-booted.

I'll post another update once I figure this out - or once I get so frustrated and post another reply for help from you oh-so-kind folks.


----------



## Magoo Wu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
can you tell me how you managed to boot 2x 8800gt in sli on this motherboard because they have the g93 series chips in the cards and require 16x pcie lanes in sli on the P5N-E sli it drops to 8X speed in sli mode so you lose major performance from your gpu's :-/

magoo i have the same chip as you i havent tried going past 3.0 ghz i have the go version i only overclocked it today i finished building my new rig this wednesday just gone specs below its been 6hours stable @ 3.0ghz 333x9 fsb i did have issues with my corsair ram timings i had to change to 2t because of bsod once i overclocked :-/

so im in the same boat as you and would also like to know if its because of the 0703 bios etc i think i still have the 6** bios somewhere :-/ and am willing to give it a try but am happy even at stock with the performance of my rig :-/


Thanks for the info... well - I was ballsie and just jumped right into the specs you gave me.

Same everything (except I changed my memory timings to 4-4-4-12)
And the Memory Voltage Closer to 2.2v

I'm running a 3Dmark06 now and seems to be fine, I'll run Prime95 later and check the stability.

My guess what did it was the push up for the NB voltage, and maybe the +100mv offset....

Wait.... nevermind (*as I look over from my laptop to my test-in-progress on the main computer*) computer crashed and re-booted.

I'll post another update once I figure this out - or once I get so frustrated and post another reply for help from you oh-so-kind folks.


----------



## hometoast

(no so) sadly I said goodbye to my p5n today. it just never could OC my ram over stock, or my cpu over 1400 stable.
I dropped in a blood iron and I was running at 400Mhz immediately. I'm sure my board was just a pick from a bad bin.


----------



## roliax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
can you tell me how you managed to boot 2x 8800gt in sli on this motherboard because they have the g93 series chips in the cards and require 16x pcie lanes in sli on the P5N-E sli it drops to 8X speed in sli mode so you lose major performance from your gpu's :-/

I don't really know. Im a noob. All i know is that I set it up, nVidia Software detects it and I was able to run it. I do know that I haven't been getting as much performance as I should. Anyways...any help on the overclocking?


----------



## marsey99

@roliax

dont worry too much m8, the diference between 2 8x slots and 2 16x slots is only around 5% when you compare it to a nf680i (check tomshardware they did a comparison last year) which was one of the main reasons i went with this mobo as the bang per buck on this was, and still is a bit, un matched.

@hometoast

sry to hear that m8, but dam you have dove in at the deep end there, from very few options to a while host of them on the dfi.







nice choice btw, post back to let us know how you progress. did you change any off the cooling on your p5nesli?


----------



## sherpa_man

i have tried everything to get his bios rolled back i have used easy flash tried it in dos and also in windows i have tried everything and i cant get it to roll back keeps saying the version i am using wont allow it to downgrade ! im starting to get mad at this board !


----------



## bnceo

I just sent my Asus P5N-E back to Newegg for a replacement. I totally went nutty on the Bios because my computer keep freezing and thought it was that. Anywho, I get to start over when I get another motherboard on Monday (waiting for me at UPS store). My main concern was taking out the stock NorthBridge heatsink. Is there any recommended way to take it out? I want to put in a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II in its place.

Moreover, I will also like to put in a small fan on the southbridge, but my concern is keeping it away enough from my big 8800 GTX. Any recommended southbridge fans/heatsinks for use with a 8800 GTX card?

Also, can I use Artic Silver 5 on a North Bridge and South Bridge chip? Or do I use the stuff that came with the respective chip coolers?

One more thing, this might be a sound card issue (already sent it RMA), but is anyone having problems with using a Creative XTremeGamer Fatal1ty soundcard with this board? Mine wouldn't even detect at all. Thanks guys. This has become my favorite website. First one I open when I get to work! =)


----------



## chmoosi

I'm starting to build this machine and decided to do them easy bits first! So it's replacing the stock NB heatsink paste with AS5! But there is some confusion.. I just got the heatsink off and if I understood correctly I need to get the grey plasticky thing off the heatsink? This seems to be hard.. I tried rubbing with isopropyl alcohol but am not succesful yet.. also some of it is stuck to NB heatspreader. To get it off how much caution should I use that the NB doesn't catch any of my cleaning substances?

J


----------



## chmoosi

I bought zalman rhs-1 heatsinks for them mosfets. How do I install them? Just stick them on the mosfets using the thermal tape that comes with them? And it seems that one heatsink is good for two mosfets right yes? I realise that this may be very el basico question, but better safe than sorry..

J


----------



## manny123

Will the P5N-E SLI support the 45nm quad core processors?

Below its only dual core.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...on-thread.html
http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/


----------



## bnceo

Does anyone have a picture guide on how to remove the Northbridge Heatsink? Is there any stock paste/grease on it that I have to clean off?


----------



## Magoo Wu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnceo* 
I just sent my Asus P5N-E back to Newegg for a replacement. I totally went nutty on the Bios because my computer keep freezing and thought it was that. Anywho, I get to start over when I get another motherboard on Monday (waiting for me at UPS store). My main concern was taking out the stock NorthBridge heatsink. Is there any recommended way to take it out? I want to put in a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II in its place.

Moreover, I will also like to put in a small fan on the southbridge, but my concern is keeping it away enough from my big 8800 GTX. Any recommended southbridge fans/heatsinks for use with a 8800 GTX card?

Also, can I use Artic Silver 5 on a North Bridge and South Bridge chip? Or do I use the stuff that came with the respective chip coolers?

One more thing, this might be a sound card issue (already sent it RMA), but is anyone having problems with using a Creative XTremeGamer Fatal1ty soundcard with this board? Mine wouldn't even detect at all. Thanks guys. This has become my favorite website. First one I open when I get to work! =)


I have a 7950 GT SLI setup in mine (about the same size as your 8800).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109128

I got a Thermalright HR-05 and modded it. It starts at 90 degrees, I bent it back to a 45 degree angle. It fits perfect angling back over the SATA pluggin slots. At that angle there is even room for an additional fan on it, and the independent power to the second SLI card doesn't interfere at all.


----------



## Magoo Wu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnceo* 

Also, can I use Artic Silver 5 on a North Bridge and South Bridge chip? Or do I use the stuff that came with the respective chip coolers?

One more thing, this might be a sound card issue (already sent it RMA), but is anyone having problems with using a Creative XTremeGamer Fatal1ty soundcard with this board? Mine wouldn't even detect at all. Thanks guys. This has become my favorite website. First one I open when I get to work! =)


And, Always use Arctic Silver 5 instead of the junk they give you.
Also, I like Zalman ZM-STG1 grease. Its comparable to AS5 and it has an applicator brush.

Since Fatal1ty is another in the X-FI series, it should work just fine. I have the Xtremegamer (but not fatal1ty) and it works great in the system.

(And I had a hard time trying to get my NB off. So sadly I just used a thermal adhesive to put another heatsink and fan ontop of the existing heatsink. A shame I couldn't change the thermal compound to AS5 - but better than nothing I say.)


----------



## marsey99

you should not use as5 on any exposed chip wether its a nb or sb as it is conductive, id reccomend mx-2 on everything as it isn't conductive and is very efective.

yes there is themal paste under the stock nb heatsink and the longer you use it the harder it gets to remove, akasa tim remover is my fave for getting rid of old paste as it works quite well and smells nice


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *manny123* 
Will the P5N-E SLI support the 45nm quad core processors?

Below its only dual core.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...on-thread.html
http://event.asus.com/mb/45nm/

Just Dual core. This board has enough trouble with a Q6600 let alone a Yorkfield.


----------



## ZionEx

Ordered an E8400 last night so I will be trying it out next week on this board. I hope things go smoothly.


----------



## sherpa_man

so whats classed as stable also with prime 95 tell you if you are over heating i have just run prime for 7 hours no errors but mu core temp in everest max is 71 is this a true reading ? if so is that to hot evan if it dont detect a error ? i have a q6600 go


----------



## Gauvenator

I've been having stability issues (again) and I'm starting to think it's related to the soundcard slot issue with this board. I even set my proc to stock and it still froze during crysis.

What slot is generally the best for soundcards on this board? Currently I have mine in the lowest PCI slot.

*edit: funny thing is I'm very stable when testing with p95 or orthos, but games make me crash. I've even been stable at 2.94ghz for 1hr in orthos, and then I fired up crysis and 5min later BSOD.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


you should not use as5 on any exposed chip wether its a nb or sb as it is conductive, id reccomend mx-2 on everything as it isn't conductive and is very efective.

yes there is themal paste under the stock nb heatsink and the longer you use it the harder it gets to remove, akasa tim remover is my fave for getting rid of old paste as it works quite well and smells nice










These are very good choices. 
I couldn't get the Akasa remover when I was doing the NB and SB, so I used the tried and true method of rubbing alcohol, Q-tips, and more alcohol, clean up, and then blow drying, just to be sure.
I installed the Zalman fan-shaped HS in the NB, and the tall square -47 version on the SB. About the thermal paste, I used the Zalman -1 that came w my heatsinks.
Once you get past the finnickiness of installing the little brackets at the proper angle, and tightening all before final install, these heatsinks works like a charm. I went from 75 degress to about 40 on the SB (via IR).


----------



## sherpa_man

i think imrunning a tad to hot i have a akasa evo 922 so im wondering will i get much of a temp reduction with a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme


----------



## tonedeaf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnceo* 
Does anyone have a picture guide on how to remove the Northbridge Heatsink? Is there any stock paste/grease on it that I have to clean off?

remove the motherboard, on the underside there will be two white push pins, get some plyers and GENTLY squeze them until they push though, set them aside for remounting later.

the TIM is some thermal tape that asus used, use some isopropyl alcohol to get most of it off, if theres still some on the clip scratch it off gently with a fingernail, you can use a box cutter or something to remove it off the stock heatsink.

reapply with a NONCONDUCTING TIM like tx2 and remount with pins

i did that, put in 1.7volts, slapped on an old 60mm fan and now im going at 38degrees


----------



## chmoosi

So I've just got my machine running.. P5N-E SLI with E6750 dual core processor. I've replaced the TMI on both the NB heatsink and on the processor with AS5. I'm a little confused about the temperature readings the various programs give me and I think there is a possibility that I'm running too hot for some reason. First of all my core idle temperatures are about 37C (speedfan) or 50 (pc wizard 2008) and then when I run orthos they shoot somewhere to 80C (speedfan) / 95C (pc wizard) quite fast. I'm a little bit confused though as there are three measurements (Processor temperature, core 1 temp and core 2 temp) in PC wizard and those core temps shoot up pretty fast and processor temp starts to rise slowly. NB temp (if that's the temp1 on speedfan) is 40C when idle. So which measurements should I be looking at / is there some trouble with my processor temps at the moment?

J


----------



## marsey99

for me with speedfan temp 1 is cpu, 2 is mobo, and 3 and second 1 are false readings of 25 and 40c.

i would ignore pc wizard and compare the likes of everest, speed fan, core temp and pc probe just for good measure. if some of these give you the same readings i would trust those to be the most accurate.

you want to be carfull with silver paste on your nb tho as it will move over time and end up on the pcb around the chip which will cause a short and maybe seriuos damage to you mobo.

see posts^^^^^

@sherpa

the 120 ex will drop your temps quite a bit over the asaka m8, its one of if not the best air cooler on the market atm.

@Gauvenator

what have you got your pci e clock running @?


----------



## chmoosi

marsey99 said:


> for me with speedfan temp 1 is cpu, 2 is mobo, and 3 and second 1 are false readings of 25 and 40c.
> 
> i would ignore pc wizard and compare the likes of everest, speed fan, core temp and pc probe just for good measure. if some of these give you the same readings i would trust those to be the most accurate.
> 
> you want to be carfull with silver paste on your nb tho as it will move over time and end up on the pcb around the chip which will cause a short and maybe seriuos damage to you mobo.
> 
> see posts^^^^^
> 
> @sherpa
> >
> >
> Okay.. so what's with them core0 and core1 temperatures on speedfan? Are they relevant for temperature monitoring?
> 
> J


----------



## Gauvenator

I've seen many people using as5 on the nb here. Isn't it safe if you use only enough that it is only on chip not the stuff around it? I used it on my gfx card and it seems ok.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


@Gauvenator

what have you got your pci e clock running @?


My pci-e clock is at 100 in the bios


----------



## Hijack!

Hi All,

First time posting here. I've spent most of the morning going over this thread, but with 550+ pages, it's obviously a bit overwhelming.

I'm completely new to OC'ing, but I've been reading intently for about a week before I begin. Upon recently changing my MB to this P5N-E SLI from an older P5N, I seemed to get a drop in performance (inability to simultaneously run as many aps as I did previously), so I started looking for ways to either fix, or OC my system

While they might be buried in this giant thread, I was wondering if someone could simply point me in the right direction of some opening BIOS settings for a stable OC of a C2D E6700 on this board. I'm not looking to push my memory that much at this time (if at all) since it appears to me its crap stuff (A-data "performance" PC6400).









I was thinking of trying to achieve 3.1 - 3.3 Mhz range with the CPU. If I could open the bus and get some better memory performance with it, I'd take it.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hijack!* 
Hi All,

First time posting here. I've spent most of the morning going over this thread, but with 550+ pages, it's obviously a bit overwhelming.

I'm completely new to OC'ing, but I've been reading intently for about a week before I begin. Upon recently changing my MB to this P5N-E SLI from an older P5N, I seemed to get a drop in performance (inability to simultaneously run as many aps as I did previously), so I started looking for ways to either fix, or OC my system

While they might be buried in this giant thread, I was wondering if someone could simply point me in the right direction of some opening BIOS settings for a stable OC of a C2D E6700 on this board. I'm not looking to push my memory that much at this time (if at all) since it appears to me its crap stuff (A-data "performance" PC6400).









I was thinking of trying to achieve 3.1 - 3.3 Mhz range with the CPU. If I could open the bus and get some better memory performance with it, I'd take it.

Thanks in advance!

First you should set your ram timings manually (advanced>chipset)

Then under Advanced>Jumper Free Configuration(something like that) set the first option to manual and now you can tweak fsb for the cpu and ram individually if you set under FSB settings the first option to Unlinked.

Also under Jumper Free Configuration you should set you vcore voltage manually. This board tends to put way too much vcore when left at auto while oc'ing.

Forgive me if some of my menu descriptions are off.


----------



## bnceo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tonedeaf* 
remove the motherboard, on the underside there will be two white push pins, get some plyers and GENTLY squeze them until they push though, set them aside for remounting later.

the TIM is some thermal tape that asus used, use some isopropyl alcohol to get most of it off, if theres still some on the clip scratch it off gently with a fingernail, you can use a box cutter or something to remove it off the stock heatsink.

reapply with a NONCONDUCTING TIM like tx2 and remount with pins

i did that, put in 1.7volts, slapped on an old 60mm fan and now im going at 38degrees









I won't be reapplying the same Asus heatsink onto the NB. I have a Thermaltake Spirit II that I just bought from the local MicroCenter. I just bought some Arctic Cooling MX2 to use on the NB. Does the SB really get hot without anything on it? I don't think I'll be overclocking, but I might just a little. Anywho, I'm still pondering on which SB heatsink/fan to get. Trying not to hit the 8800GTX. That thing is massive.


----------



## Gauvenator

If not oc'ing you shouldn't need to cool the sb.

If you cool it anyway tho, I used a Cooler master Blue Ice heatsink only. It fits under gfx cards (if you don't glop on epoxy). It is a close fit.


----------



## Hijack!

Ya, I'll have to address the RAM timings somehow. Running SANDRA, my Membory bandwidth utilization ratings are AWEFUL. Like 16% efficiency. WAY below what a similar reference set shows I should be getting.

I was thinking of these settings to start.

CPU multiplier 10 (its locked anyhow on the e6700)
FSB 310 (QRD 1240)
Mem unlinked running at FSB 400
Standard timings of 5-5-5-18-1T

Then adjust voltages as necessary to achieve stability

Sound like I'm on the right track?


----------



## Gauvenator

I would just set everything to stock to start with. I believe 1066fsb (QDR) is the stock fsb for the e6700. Memory sounds good. Stress test with orthos for an hour to make sure you're stable at stock, then begin raising the fsb in 20mhz increments.

Use CoreTemp to determine your stock voltage with the VID reading it gives. Start there and increase as necessary, but don't go higher than 1.5v.

*edit: and the low ram efficiency is probably due to the mobo setting extremely loose ram timings. Once you manually set them that should be fixed.


----------



## Hijack!

Yup, even setting it manually to the lame stock timings the manufacturer gives of 5-5-5-18-2T brought up efficiency from 16% to 64%. Kick ass.

Thanks so far!


----------



## Magoo Wu

Ok, so I've tried and tried and I'm still stuck at max 2.8, up from the stock 2.4 - Q6600.

I've tried all combinations of the following:

-Setting all voltages to auto...
-Setting specific voltages (more than enough for an OC)
-Lossening the memory timing from 4-4-4-12 to 5-5-5-15 (memory is rated for 4-4-4-12)
-Tried dropping the multiplier down to 8 and increasing the FSB
-Tried gradually working up the FSB speed
-Tried jumping up the FSB speed

All bios settings that should be disabled, are.
(Current Bios is 0703)

I have aftermarket cooling on everything... temp is not a problem.

And any time I try to increase FSB above 311 (in bios 1244) the computer either fails to boot or boots but freezes at ASUS screen.

After research I am still out of ideas...

Any tips & suggestions would be great!


----------



## polly69

i am new to this forum and need some help to sole my problems i want to do 2things.
1# Break the 3ghz barrier overclock i can only get to 2.8ghz but im running at 2.7 as its stable all voltages are on auto my bios is 608 ram is 720mhz as it becomes unstable running it at 800mhz i have to run it at about 875mhz with the NB set to 1,56volts as im using 4x1gb sticks of geil 800mhz ram ive manually set timings at 4-4-4-12. Current tempreture is 41c the room is very warm so the temps are always around 40c 47-49c fully loaded.

2# Use all my ram without having to worry about destroying my chipset through heat because of having to feed 1.56volts to the NB. I have read threds that say its alright and some that say you need to mod the cooling on the NB. the inside of my case has great cooling as its a cool master nvida special edition i want to know whats true

i hope you will be able to help me cheers


----------



## bnceo

Ok. This is a REAL noobie question: on this board, where do I put my RAM sticks? (I got two). On the black or yellow slots? And can I just get another 1GB stick of the same type or do I need to get 2 sticks of both 1GB each? I got Windows XP, so having 4GB of RAM won't even be needed.

By the way, much thanks for the SB recommendation. I will really look at that one. So great to have some great community support for my first major motherboard.


----------



## pheoxs

For dual channel run them both in the same color, doesn't matter whether yellow or black so long as their both in black or both in yellow, also getting just one extra gb stick won't be worth it as you cannot run the ram in 'dual channel' so either go with 2gb or 4gb (which will essentially show up as 3.2gb)


----------



## marsey99

@guav

try upping it to 110, i had some bsod that kept telling me it was gpu driver and i wasn't clocking that so it puzzled me, anyhow i upped the pcie clock and it went away. i could go upto 117 with my old 76gt, i havent really played with it since getting this g92 but its still at 110 and its rock solid for me.

hope it helps


----------



## sherpa_man

im now stable at 3.5 ghz i was stabe at 3.2 but was running alittle to hot so i bought a THERMALRIGHT Ultra-120 eXtreme and its dropped me temps by 15oc


----------



## Hijack!

Well, I was able to bump to my first tier of stable at 3.0 Ghz. All I did was change the FSB to 300, unliked the RAM and put that at 400 and left voltages alone (auto).

Coretemp is showing core voltage as 1.325 and temps of 50 at idle and 57 while running Orthos. Hotter than I'd like, but acceptable I suppose. My Northbridge needs work though. Thing is too damn hot to touch with the stock POS heatsink. Is this the TJ (assume Temperature Junction) that shows on Coretemp? If so, it's reading at 85c. Ouch.

Funny thing is, stupid thing won't even finish 3DMark06 now. Runs the first few graphics tests ok, but really dies during the CPU tests. Sometimes it just stops, and sometimes is says my display changed (wth)!?. Could this mean I need to bump the voltages? Orthos runs fine though, so I would think this is a bit of a discrepancy in results.

Also, another question here. I read some people try dropping the CPU multiplier and bumping the FSB higher. What's the difference? I've also read that this seems to give only "false" increases in performance benchmarking tools, and not true performance increases? I'll try to find that source to reference.


----------



## Perry

I've been curious about this for a while now.

Why is that I can set my memory frequency to say, 1000mhz but the actual frequency shown in the BIOS and at POST is 950mhz?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
im now stable at 3.5 ghz i was stabe at 3.2 but was running alittle to hot so i bought a THERMALRIGHT Ultra-120 eXtreme and its dropped me temps by 15oc









Need a screen shot of 24 hours stress test- FAH, OCCT, Prime95, et. al.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
I've been curious about this for a while now.

Why is that I can set my memory frequency to say, 1000mhz but the actual frequency shown in the BIOS and at POST is 950mhz?

Sometimes when you set a funny FSB like say.......1241MHz BIOS gives you an odd divider like 19/32 that gets you close to the desired speed, but not exactly on it.


----------



## Perry

So a divider is still put in place even if it's unlinked?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
@guav

try upping it to 110, i had some bsod that kept telling me it was gpu driver and i wasn't clocking that so it puzzled me, anyhow i upped the pcie clock and it went away. i could go upto 117 with my old 76gt, i havent really played with it since getting this g92 but its still at 110 and its rock solid for me.

hope it helps









That can't harm the computer right?


----------



## bnceo

Ok. So I just received my Asus P5N-E from Newegg (this is my second cause the 1st wasn't good). Does anyone know what tool to use in order to remove the Northbridge heatsink? I don't want to do something crazy like rip the chipset from the motherboard. I'm trying to be really safe over here. This is a BRAND new motherboard. So any grease/paste on the heatsink and chipset is pretty new. Thanks


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bnceo*


Ok. So I just received my Asus P5N-E from Newegg (this is my second cause the 1st wasn't good). Does anyone know what tool to use in order to remove the Northbridge heatsink? I don't want to do something crazy like rip the chipset from the motherboard. I'm trying to be really safe over here. This is a BRAND new motherboard. So any grease/paste on the heatsink and chipset is pretty new. Thanks


Needlenose pliers to grab the pins on the other side of the motherboard should work. Just be careful not to scratch the mobo.


----------



## bnceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Needlenose pliers to grab the pins on the other side of the motherboard should work. Just be careful not to scratch the mobo.


Yes sir. I just did this and all is good. A VERY tiny amt of Asus NB paste was on the chipset, but easily removable. When my MX2, Zalman 9500, and 6" & 10" SATA II cables come tomorrow, it's time to finish this project. My Xmas present to myself.

Once again, thanks Gauvenator.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bnceo*


Yes sir. I just did this and all is good. A VERY tiny amt of Asus NB paste was on the chipset, but easily removable. When my MX2, Zalman 9500, and 6" & 10" SATA II cables come tomorrow, it's time to finish this project. My Xmas present to myself.

Once again, thanks Gauvenator.


Sure thing







Glad it worked out.


----------



## dod713

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sherpa_man* 
im now stable at 3.5 ghz i was stabe at 3.2 but was running alittle to hot so i bought a THERMALRIGHT Ultra-120 eXtreme and its dropped me temps by 15oc


hey man can you post us the stats on how you got it stable at 3.2 or 3.5 pls. would really appreciate it. im just a novice =)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnceo* 
Yes sir. I just did this and all is good. A VERY tiny amt of Asus NB paste was on the chipset, but easily removable. When my MX2, Zalman 9500, and 6" & 10" SATA II cables come tomorrow, it's time to finish this project. My Xmas present to myself.

Once again, thanks Gauvenator.

Haha your lucky a tiny bit was on there, mine was like smeared it it and it was all solid when I took the NB off


----------



## bnceo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Haha your lucky a tiny bit was on there, mine was like smeared it it and it was all solid when I took the NB off









I cleaned most of the little bit that was on the chipset. However, about haf (think 1/4 pea size) is still left. Do I use my nails or something? Any cleaning solution I use isn't working


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


So a divider is still put in place even if it's unlinked?


Yes, there has to be some kind of divider ratio- otherwise the RAM and FSB would be the same (or to be precise a 1:1 divider ratio)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dod713*


hey man can you post us the stats on how you got it stable at 3.2 or 3.5 pls. would really appreciate it. im just a novice =)


I think this guy is talking smack. He has not provided any proof.....3.2 I could buy, 3.5 no way will I believe without screen shots.


----------



## jbobb

I have ordered the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro for cpu and the Thermalright HR-05-SLI for the NB. According to posts here, they will both work fine.

A few questions though....

1. Anyone who has the HR-05-SLI on their NB, which way do you have it mounted? With the heatsink going towards the PCI-E slot, or another way?

2. I have read that the mounting brackets for the HR-05-SLI are not the best. Anyone use that heatsink have a problem with it, or is it fine. Would it hold fine in a vertical case?

Thanks everyone.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bnceo*


Does anyone know what tool to use in order to remove the Northbridge heatsink?


To build on this question you have the TIM and then a foam/fabric square that frames the northbridge chip. Is that neccessary? Can that be removed as well or does it have to stay on?


----------



## bnceo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
To build on this question you have the TIM and then a foam/fabric square that frames the northbridge chip. Is that neccessary? Can that be removed as well or does it have to stay on?

I wanted to remove the Asus heatsink on the NB and replace it with a Thermal Take Spirit II along with Arctic Cooling MX2 thermal paste/grease.

Basically, I got some needle nose pliers and safely removed the NB heatsink. At this moment, I have it covered up so it doesn't get damaged. Tonight, when I get home, i will finish this project when my MX2 comes via UPS.

With this board, I suggest everyone replace the NB heatsink as soon as it arrives. Do it before the cheap asus stuff gets on the NB and makes it hard to come out.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
To build on this question you have the TIM and then a foam/fabric square that frames the northbridge chip. Is that neccessary? Can that be removed as well or does it have to stay on?

I scraped mine off and reseated the NB HS with AS5......Temps dropped from 45C to 30C. I'd say chuck that POS foam.

Also, you may want to lap your block- my NB HS had deep gouges in it, not a good contact surface.


----------



## Gauvenator

Does the Thermalright HR-05 (not the SLI version) fit on this motherboard without hitting any caps or w/e?

I'm using a waterblock so I don't have a giant hs on the cpu to cause space problems..


----------



## Asce

Ive done the deed and gone and replaced my Geil Ultras. Hopefully this allows me to puch my OC even further than 3.2Ghz.


----------



## bnceo

Ok. So my 2nd board comes back from Newegg and guess what. I only get the freakin logo screen and that's it. NOTHING! Won't even let me go into BIOS. Moreover, one of the plastic SATA ports comes off so easily like someone even bothered to secure it. LOVELY!

For everyone who cares, here is what I did:

Removed Asus heatsink and installed ThermalTake Spirit II with Arctic Cooling MX2 (one small dot)
Put in CPU and installed Zalman 9500 using Artic Silver 5 thermal paste (a small line just like their website says)
Put mobo inside the case and hooked up all the wires. 
Stare at the logo screen.

So yeah. I'm super bummed out. I'm going to RMA it back to Newegg and give it a third try. If no go this time, I might have to go eVGA or something. Or maybe even Asus P5N32-E or something. I don't know. But yeah. Super bummed out. Probably what I'll do as I wait for another board is work on modding out my Antec 900.

Guys, please pray for me to get a working board. =(


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I scraped mine off and reseated the NB HS with AS5......Temps dropped from 45C to 30C. I'd say chuck that POS foam.

Also, you may want to lap your block- my NB HS had deep gouges in it, not a good contact surface.


Mine actually looked really good with no overly deep grooves. It's odd how the machining process could be so different for the same part.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bnceo*


Ok. So my 2nd board comes back from Newegg and guess what. I only get the freakin logo screen and that's it. NOTHING! Won't even let me go into BIOS. Moreover, one of the plastic SATA ports comes off so easily like someone even bothered to secure it. LOVELY!

For everyone who cares, here is what I did:

Removed Asus heatsink and installed ThermalTake Spirit II with Arctic Cooling MX2 (one small dot)
Put in CPU and installed Zalman 9500 using Artic Silver 5 thermal paste (a small line just like their website says)
Put mobo inside the case and hooked up all the wires. 
Stare at the logo screen.

So yeah. I'm super bummed out. I'm going to RMA it back to Newegg and give it a third try. If no go this time, I might have to go eVGA or something. Or maybe even Asus P5N32-E or something. I don't know. But yeah. Super bummed out. Probably what I'll do as I wait for another board is work on modding out my Antec 900.

Guys, please pray for me to get a working board. =(


I've had my rig stick on the logo screen after a bad round of memory overclocking. Until you can get your timings and voltages set in the BIOS you should try to post with only 1 stick. If it still fetches up try it in a different slot.

Personally that board would be going straight back since the SATA port pulls off. If anything isn't secured to the board properly then it's faulty. Plain and simple. Call them before hand and let them know what's going on and that you are extremely unhappy with what they sent you.

The squeaky wheel gets the grease.


----------



## Gauvenator

I'm going to try upgrading to bios 0608.

What is the recommended method of flashing? I don't have a floppy drive. Is the in windows method OK?


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I'm going to try upgrading to bios 0608.

What is the recommended method of flashing? I don't have a floppy drive. Is the in windows method OK?


If you have a USB Pen Drive, use that. Put the BIOS on the pen drive and then load up the bios and choose the Asus *EZ* Flash option and flash your bios from there. Its *E*a*Z*y.


----------



## Gauvenator

hehe

Does the usb pen drive have to have only the bios on it? or can I just throw it on with all my other stuff?


----------



## bnceo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
hehe

Does the usb pen drive have to have only the bios on it? or can I just throw it on with all my other stuff?

Just make a folder ion the pen/flash drive called Bios. EZ Flash has a very Windows 3.1 file browser. You can easily select it. Just keep it in a folder you know.

This is BY FAR the best method for flashing your bios. My mobo came with the latest one.


----------



## Gauvenator

Awesome thanks for the tip!

rep+ for both of you


----------



## marsey99

sorry i aint been about guys, but my ram is giving me some real headaches.

i cant keep running for more than a hour @ddr1000 but it passed 2 in memtest. dif bsod every time. now the only thing that seemed to help was upping the nb volts but 1.56v dont seem quite enough and 1.7v wont boot at all so i guess thats too much.

anybody running ram at these speeds 24/7?

i dont really want to get a new mobo yet.

edit

i cant flash my bios, i wanted to see if that would help any, lol, ez flash wont as these new ones are downgrade and awdflash wont work in vista 64. ffs.


----------



## Procol

Hello

Im wondering how much i could Oc my 3 ghz intelcore duo 6850, so it would be safe and running on a good temperature


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

It sucks these boards won't be supporting the newer E8*** series. How are these boards doing with the Q6600's?


----------



## r0b126

anyone here want to buy an Intel E6750

stock speeds are 2.66GHz/1333MHz FSB

easy OC to 3.2GHz/1600 if you want a 1:1 w/ pc6400 memory. runs very cool, used for a very short time before I changed systems. proc is awesome for OCing on this board.


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


It sucks these boards won't be supporting the newer E8*** series. How are these boards doing with the Q6600's?


what would possess you to say that? You can put an E8400 on this board and it runs just fine.


----------



## Perry

It doesn't show support for the CPU on Asus.com although they do work together.


----------



## marsey99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


It sucks these boards won't be supporting the newer E8*** series. How are these boards doing with the Q6600's?


yea same as how it sucks that it doesnt support the e4300 too, hold on what does my sig say???

they dont offically support ram speeds above ddr800 but mine does ddr1000 now.

screenie for you all, not bad for a 1.8ghz cpu


----------



## ZionEx

I am having temp issues on my board with the E8400 if anyone wants to take a look at the thread I made here.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3320678


----------



## doubleagent

I'm new to all this, the last computer I built 4 years ago worked perfectly with no problems or tweaking required. However I'm having stability problems that seemed to have popped up recently.

The machine will freeze occasionally it seems to happen when I come back to the machine after not using it for a while. It will either blue screen or freeze when playing a game (COH).

What's the best way to diagnose the problem? I know it could be lots of things.

The first thing I noticed was that I purchased the OCZ Platinum 2x1GB (2) kit without knowing only Rev 2 is 100% compatible. (Assuming that RAMs were created equal







) How can I tell that I purchased Rev 2? I bought it about 2 weeks ago from NewEgg and I don't have the packaging. It shows up fine in Vista & BIOS.

Thanks for any help in advance, and apologies if this has been answered already I couldn't figure out how to only search this forum.

Specs:
Intel Core 2 Quad 2.4GHz
OCZ Platinum 2x1GB - 4GB Total
XFX nVidia GeForce 8800GT
Windows Vista Ultimate


----------



## r0b126

most blue screens are memory related issues.

I would remove all but 1 dimm of memory from the machine and run a few instances of memtest until all instances are at 100%. Keep in mind its common for 1 instance to hit a few thousand percent before the last one gets to 100%. When all have gotten to 100%, swap out dimms until you've tested all your memory. If you get errors on a dimm, that dimm needs replaced.

can download it off my server here: www.kuahara.com/memtest.exe

If everything checks out, post back.


----------



## bnceo

What's the best memory for this board? Just out of curiosity. The current sticks might go to my home server with an Asus P5B-E while this board will get something nicer. Suggestions please? =)


----------



## Perry

Just check out the approved manufacturer list on Asus.com. Other modules will work but those ones listed there have been tested for compatibility.


----------



## bnceo

What about the OCZ Platinum Revision 2? Any thoughts?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnceo* 
What about the OCZ Platinum Revision 2? Any thoughts?

I have them, they run perfectly fine on this board, but not the best overclockers, mine topped out around 925mhz.


----------



## bnceo

I don't think I'm in the mindframe of overclocking my RAM. My CPU will get a little boost though. Maybe I would get my E6600 to 2.8 or something. Don't really want to mess with RAM though.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
screenie for you all, not bad for a 1.8ghz cpu

















Not bad? a 100% OC not bad? That's freakin awesome!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bnceo* 
What about the OCZ Platinum Revision 2? Any thoughts?

OCZ makes good stuff, but I'm a huge Crucial fan. Micron ICs FTW.


----------



## Asce

I love my Ballistics all ready. Ravin, hows the little crows nest going.


----------



## Hijack!

Just be sure to use the black RAM slots if you're going with any memory more aggressive than 5-5-5-12. The yellow slots seem to have a very real issue with stability. Of course, if you're using more than 2 sticks, then the point is mute.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hijack!*


Just be sure to use the black RAM slots if you're going with any memory more aggressive than 5-5-5-12. The yellow slots seem to have a very real issue with stability. Of course, if you're using more than 2 sticks, then the point is mute.


Thats only if you are using the 0202 bios when the board came out.


----------



## Gauvenator

So has anyone used an E8400 with this board yet? How well has it oc'ed?


----------



## Hijack!

Holy crap. How in the world does OCing REDUCE your machine's performance!? Yikes. So I established a stable 3 Ghz OC on my e6700 just to get myself started. Nothing extreme. I didn't bother to benchmark it though when I did it. However, I finally did some tests.

I went from a 12,000 ish 3DMark06 score at my stock settings....to a 2,300 with OCing my CPU!? How the hell does that happen?









Any insight into this phenomenon? Could it be because I left my RAM alone and didn't scale it? I set it to Unliked and left it at 400 Mhz FSB (800 effective). That's the only thing I could think of. My ram pretty much sucks. Factory timings of 5-5-5-18-2T, which I have set manually in the BIOS. I don't know if I can push it.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!


----------



## marsey99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Thats only if you are using the 0202 bios when the board came out.


it doesnt matter what bios you use the black slots will give you more stability, when i had the 0202 bios i could run fine with my old ram at 666 3-3-3-9 or 800 4-4-4-12 but as soon as i got near 1000 with 5-5-5-15 it would bsod all the time, even now with my new pc8000 i have to put them in the blackslots if i want to run them above 950. the thing of it is tho this mobo only supports ddr800 offically so its lucky it works at all i guess.

edit

@hijack

post screens of you results before and after your oc so i can try to undersand why you lost the points and we can take it from there.


----------



## Ceedub

Hey guys, I've got a question for you. One of the reviews I read stated that this board has a 'memory hole' at 400-450MHz. I guess I confirmed this on my board as well during my first round of trying to OC my rig--I could get to 3.2GHz but anything beyond that wouldn't work.

So, what I'm wondering is, should I try lowering my CPU multi to, say, 6 and just change the fsb to 450? I've tried that a couple times so far today without success (once it actually finished loading into windows before it blue-screened), so I think I'm on the right track. I just want to make sure, ya know?

Also, what setting should I have the LDT at? On an AMD system I have heard of this, but I haven't got a clue what this is doing on an Intel rig.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## OCfrostmage

Hi, I recently purchased an e8400 3.0GHz cpu with this motherboard
from cyberpower.

It will be shipped sometime this month and I plan to OC it.

I was going to try the Intelligent AI OC feature. Is this a good idea?

I noticed someone said this chip isnt compatible but as far as I know it is.

Cyberpower is selling it with this mobo at least.

I'll post again towards the end of the month and let anyone that is interested know how it goes.

I'm new to overclocking any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

OCfrostmage


----------



## Indignity

I've seen 1 or 2 posts saying that they have the cpu installed & working on this board. I'll wait until one of them responds to make an educated reply tho.

We could help you much more if you posted all of the other components of your system (ie. in your control panel). The AI function won't give you the most effective overclock & you'll really need to watch your temps. Lucky for you, this board's OC settings are really easy to learn. Getting it stable will all be up to trial & error. Another plus is get a usb drive to save your settings.

The other thing I would really suggest is start reading on page 1 and keep going. That was a real education for me.

Enjoy the board, it fricken rocks!


----------



## RyanB

Hey guys, I'm new to this OCing stuff, and i have a couple of questions..

I just put together a new rig with this mother board.
I have the Q6600, 4 gigs corsair xms2 ram (2x2gigs), 8800gt video card, running windows xp pro.

I want to at least get to 2.8 or 3.0ghz with this. I upped my fsb in bios to 1152 and i'm at right about 2.6ghz. I'm having trouble trying to figure the ram out. it's at 800 right now in the bios and my timings are stock 5-5-5-31, 22 clocks..

my fsb:dram ratio is 8:11... i can't figure out what i need to do for the ram, cpu-z says i can go to 5-5-5-18, but when i tryed to put my fsb at 1332 and my ram to 666 my computer wouldn't boot up... i figured that would give me a 1:1 ratio.... am i doing something wrong or figuring this wrong? i flunked math too so i'm not that good with numbers....lol


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
yea same as how it sucks that it doesnt support the e4300 too, hold on what does my sig say???

they dont offically support ram speeds above ddr800 but mine does ddr1000 now.

screenie for you all, not bad for a 1.8ghz cpu
















http://img.techpowerup.org/080131/spi15.98


Very nice 100% OC!


----------



## Gauvenator

I've ordered an HR-05 and some Tuniq Tx-2 thermal paste, and I was wondering if you all have any tips for how to remove the stock cooler.

I know to use needle nose pliers, but what about the nasty thermal paste? I've used mine for several months now, so it's probably pretty hard. And is it possible to break the nb taking the stock hs off?


----------



## Greatness

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RyanB*


Hey guys, I'm new to this OCing stuff, and i have a couple of questions..

I just put together a new rig with this mother board.
I have the Q6600, 4 gigs corsair xms2 ram (2x2gigs), 8800gt video card, running windows xp pro.

I want to at least get to 2.8 or 3.0ghz with this. I upped my fsb in bios to 1152 and i'm at right about 2.6ghz. I'm having trouble trying to figure the ram out. it's at 800 right now in the bios and my timings are stock 5-5-5-31, 22 clocks..

my fsb:dram ratio is 8:11... i can't figure out what i need to do for the ram, cpu-z says i can go to 5-5-5-18, but when i tryed to put my fsb at 1332 and my ram to 666 my computer wouldn't boot up... i figured that would give me a 1:1 ratio.... am i doing something wrong or figuring this wrong? i flunked math too so i'm not that good with numbers....lol



I have the same board and almost the same setup and I have not (like most people in this thread save one) been able to get my FSB past 1200Mhz which gives you a 2.7OC I have had it running like this for months now and its very stable but if I try 1201Mhz it crashes at POST everytime. From what I have heard its the board that doesnt like OC'ing the Quads.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Greatness* 
I have the same board and almost the same setup and I have not (like most people in this thread save one) been able to get my FSB past 1200Mhz which gives you a 2.7OC I have had it running like this for months now and its very stable but if I try 1201Mhz it crashes at POST everytime. From what I have heard its the board that doesnt like OC'ing the Quads.

You could be going into an fsb hole...try jumping to 1230mhz.


----------



## mmattheww

Howdy. My first overclock... I've done alot of reading and learning over the past couple days, and I'm still new to this.

I've got the following setup and got 4 questions.

Q6600 OC'd to: 2.85ghz
Achieved via 9 x 1270 fsb
CPU Vcore: 1.376v
Ram : fsb ratio is 1:1 
So my ram is at 317MHz and at 5-5-5-18-2T
2gb of ram - 800mhz
Got an Arctic Cooling Freezer on the CPU (air cooling)


























My questions are:

1. Is my system running hotter than it should? I am 44C at idle and 60C when running Prime 95 tests. I dunno that seemed high to me for the small speed increase I am getting. Is that an okay temperature to leave my system at? Make me wonder if I bumped my heatsink fiddling around in the case and something's up. p.s. I'm using CoreTemp.

2. Just thought your opinion would be interesting on this one:
Is a +.45ghz increase worth the risk of shortening the lifespan of the cpu? Or is there not really much shortening if temps are moderate?

3. I read to make sure the ram:fsb ratio is 1:1 to minimize heat... so is it really normal to run the memory at a mhz that is slower than it could run? I guess ram mhz doesn't actually = speed?

okay finally last one for now -- sorry for all the ?'s!!

4. I, like others, can't get the cpu faster than 2.8. Either system won't post or windows freezes/reboots. Any tips? (I've already read around the boards and tried some stuff, but haven't found anything that worked for me).

--
mmattheww


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mmattheww*


Howdy. My first overclock... I've done alot of reading and learning over the past couple days, and I'm still new to this.

I've got the following setup and got 4 questions.

Q6600 OC'd to: 2.85ghz
Achieved via 9 x 1270 fsb
CPU Vcore: 1.376v
Ram : fsb ratio is 1:1 
So my ram is at 317MHz and at 5-5-5-18-2T
2gb of ram - 800mhz
Got an Arctic Cooling Freezer on the CPU (air cooling)


























My questions are:

1. Is my system running hotter than it should? I am 44C at idle and 60C when running Prime 95 tests. I dunno that seemed high to me for the small speed increase I am getting. Is that an okay temperature to leave my system at? Make me wonder if I bumped my heatsink fiddling around in the case and something's up. p.s. I'm using CoreTemp.

2. Just thought your opinion would be interesting on this one:
Is a +.45ghz increase worth the risk of shortening the lifespan of the cpu? Or is there not really much shortening if temps are moderate?

3. I read to make sure the ram:fsb ratio is 1:1 to minimize heat... so is it really normal to run the memory at a mhz that is slower than it could run? I guess ram mhz doesn't actually = speed?

okay finally last one for now -- sorry for all the ?'s!!

4. I, like others, can't get the cpu faster than 2.8. Either system won't post or windows freezes/reboots. Any tips? (I've already read around the boards and tried some stuff, but haven't found anything that worked for me).

--
mmattheww


1.Your temps are fine...I think G0 can go up to about 74 celcius. You can check here: processorfinder.intel.com

2.If the lifespan is shortened it should only be a few years (off of 10total) , and by the time you're getting to the end, you'll probably have a newer proc anyway.

3.You should try running Unlinked so the RAM can still be at its regular speed.

4.This motherboard is not known for being able to OC quads too well. You're very lucky if you get past 3ghz

Oh and you'll get more of a speed increase once your ram gets back up to speed.


----------



## ZionEx

I have an E8400 on this board and it runs beautifully. I have easilly overclocked it to 3.6ghz 1600FSB. So far I have not been able to get to 4GHZ stable but I have gotten it to 4GHz. Pretty good choice for boards if you want to go SLI with it.


----------



## Greatness

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
You could be going into an fsb hole...try jumping to 1230mhz.

Yea I gave it a shot I have tried pretty much every setting past 1200 in 10mhz jumps and each one wont get me past post. I am pretty much gonna give up on it for now and get a new board for the quad then throw a C2D on this board and give it to the girlfriend.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZionEx* 
I have an E8400 on this board and it runs beautifully. I have easilly overclocked it to 3.6ghz 1600FSB. So far I have not been able to get to 4GHZ stable but I have gotten it to 4GHz. Pretty good choice for boards if you want to go SLI with it.

Have you tried upping the nb voltage to get past 1600 fsb stable?

btw thanks for reporting back about E8400+P5N-E SLI


----------



## RyanB

To Gauvenator:

so is it better to keep your ram at 800, or drop it to match the FSB?

I've got my Q6600 to 2.6ghz now, but i dropped my ram down from 800 to 576 to get me a 1:1 ratio.... and my timings are 5-4-4-31... does that sound right??


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RyanB*


To Gauvenator:

so is it better to keep your ram at 800, or drop it to match the FSB?

I've got my Q6600 to 2.6ghz now, but i dropped my ram down from 800 to 576 to get me a 1:1 ratio.... and my timings are 5-4-4-31... does that sound right??


What RAM do you have? (you should fill in your system specs in the User CP too...)

But it's best to keep the ram at 800 unlinked. Don't worry about the ratios, when unlinked you can set the FSB separate from the RAM. If you need to adjust 1:1 go ahead if it helps stability.


----------



## RyanB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


What RAM do you have? (you should fill in your system specs in the User CP too...)

But it's best to keep the ram at 800 unlinked. Don't worry about the ratios, when unlinked you can set the FSB separate from the RAM. If you need to adjust 1:1 go ahead if it helps stability.



Thanks for telling me how to fill in my specs...

Ok, so I don't "HAVE" to set it to 1:1, so I should keep my ram at 800, but just adjust my FSB to where I want it? Also, as far as the timings, how do I figure out what to set there? the specs on newegg say 5-5-5-18, but on mine it shows 5-5-5-31. I haven't touched any of the voltages for either FSB or ram.


----------



## Gauvenator

In the chipset section of the bios under memory timings you should set them to what the RAM manufacturer specifies. This motherboard when left to auto timings often sets very loose latencies.

I would set it to 5-5-5-18-2T in your case.

and yes, you don't have to set it to 1:1. For best performance I would set it to 800 in unlinked mode.


----------



## RyanB

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


In the chipset section of the bios under memory timings you should set them to what the RAM manufacturer specifies. This motherboard when left to auto timings often sets very loose latencies.

I would set it to 5-5-5-18-2T in your case.

and yes, you don't have to set it to 1:1. For best performance I would set it to 800 in unlinked mode.


Thanks a lot, I'll try it tonight when I get home and see how it runs. I'll post when I get the results or if I have anymore questions... Thanks again.


----------



## nathris

Hmm, I don't know whats up but last night I made another stab at 3GHz air, and managed to get it to the point where the XP loading bar would freeze, but it was getting late so I decided to revert back down to my 2.66GHz, which I knew was 8+ hours orthos stable, but when I set the QDR back to 1066 and voltages back to auto it wouldn't even post! I had to CPR it, and decided to try a 1080 QRD, for 2.7GHz, and all its 6+ hours orthos stable. Whats up? Was it just some residual heat left over from my testing or some BIOS bug (0703)? I just don't know how I could go from completely stable to refusing to post at the same frequencies in 30 minutes!


----------



## ZionEx

Ive upped the FSB voltage to 1.7 to get it to be stable and it just isn't really all that stable still. I stopped messing with it as I have had school and the desire to game to take care of. I will mess with it some more maybe tomorrow night.


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZionEx* 
Ive upped the FSB voltage to 1.7 to get it to be stable and it just isn't really all that stable still. I stopped messing with it as I have had school and the desire to game to take care of. I will mess with it some more maybe tomorrow night.

You're running a 45nm at 1.7V? I hope you're using LN2 or its going to last about a week before it dies.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


You're running a 45nm at 1.7V? I hope you're using LN2 or its going to last about a week before it dies.


I think he means the northbridge voltage, not the vcore.


----------



## ulua56

Hello, this is my first post, I need help with my P5N_e

E6600 till Oct 07,Q6600 GO, Oct 07 to present, bios 803, 2x2 667 G-skill 5-5-5-15 1.9v, 8800gts, 700 watt ocz game stream, running prefectly for 1 year, then turned on last week, received the long memory beep, ok I rma'ed memory back to newegg, new memory same problem, cleared cmos, jumped pin, drained power, even added a new battery, removed video card, tried 1 stick per slot same long beep, to this date I have tried 6 new sticks of memory, both 667, 800, no post to bios, no luck, just the long repeating beep, any other ideas ? or just a dead board.


----------



## Gauvenator

Try disconnecting and reconnecting everything, and if it still doesn't work, RMA the mobo.


----------



## ulua56

thank you, I requested a RMA from Asus about 5 hours ago, been pulling my hair out for a week and a half.


----------



## Gauvenator

Try RMA'ing from where you purchased, I've heard bad things about RMA'ing with ASUS...


----------



## ulua56

I tried Newegg, they told me time expired, I have to deal with manufactuer, oh well, happy I kept my kv8, 3200 64 as a back-up pc.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I love my Ballistics all ready. Ravin, hows the little crows nest going.


Good- We had the anatomical survey last week- 10 fingers, 10 toes, healthy spine and heart. The doctor said "textbook perfect pregnancy" Just this past weekend we both felt the first kick- we were laying in bed in the AM and baby did not like dad's hand on the stomach. Quite a kick, but it figures- the kid has big feet like both mom and dad.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hijack!*


Just be sure to use the black RAM slots if you're going with any memory more aggressive than 5-5-5-12. The yellow slots seem to have a very real issue with stability. Of course, if you're using more than 2 sticks, then the point is mute.


Found that out the hard way yesterday. Just got my Ballistix back, best they would do in the yellow slots was 5-7-7-23. Got them running 4-4-4-12 now in the black slots- gonna try for 4-3-3-6 again this weekend.


----------



## Perry

Ok, so ran some tests with Orthos and after a 3 hour CPU stress test the temperatures were found not to go above 57 degrees. I figure the maximum temperature on an 805 is about 64 degrees so I had about 3 degress to play with.

I unlinked the memory, set it back to the manufacturer's default settings, gave the CPU voltage a bump to 1.35 (default seems to be 1.27-1.3), popped up the CPU to 3.4Ghz and I'm greeted with a successful POST but when the XP loading screen comes up it comes up super slow.

Normally it fades in from black fairly quickly but it was almost like it was going frame by frame at a frame per second.

Any ideas?

I really don't think I have that much room to play with so I'm trying to milk my 805 for everything is has while keeping it at or below 60 degrees. While I can bump up the voltage I don't think my heatsink is enough to keep it cool.


----------



## Maleficence

Hi guys, I'm trying to OC my PC and am a bit confused to the whole RAM issue. Last night I ran orthos all night and it was completely stable, this was before any OC. Today I ran nVidias fine tuning which tuned my 7900GT and increased a few of the values a bit. I know easily how to increase my FSB (as the multiplier is locked out) but I'm a bit unsure as to what to do with my RAM timings and the speed it runs at. currently I'm running the OC at the automatic OC of a 10% increase, and it seems stable enough. (I'll run orthos again overnight tonight to test my OC),but I'd rather do it manually and get the right speed and ration for my memory.

When I set the settings in my BIOS to Linked with a 1:1 ratio, the FSB and memory values were equal, yet I thought a 1:1 ratio did NOT mean equal values as the memory is running double or something. Also, can I get my memory to ork at full speed (800MHz) and maintain a 1:1 stable ratio? As you can see I'm confused, please help.

Thanks in advance!

7900GT
Core 2 duo E6550
Patriot 2GB PC2-6400 C4 Extreme Performance (CL 4-4-4-12)


----------



## Lude

Would i be fine running 4x1GB RAM OCed to 3.2ghz folding 24/7? Memory is Synced so its running at 800. Will it hurt the mobo at all over time? I dont want to have to RMA it again. Thanks.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Maleficence* 
Hi guys, I'm trying to OC my PC and am a bit confused to the whole RAM issue. Last night I ran orthos all night and it was completely stable, this was before any OC. Today I ran nVidias fine tuning which tuned my 7900GT and increased a few of the values a bit. I know easily how to increase my FSB (as the multiplier is locked out) but I'm a bit unsure as to what to do with my RAM timings and the speed it runs at. currently I'm running the OC at the automatic OC of a 10% increase, and it seems stable enough. (I'll run orthos again overnight tonight to test my OC),but I'd rather do it manually and get the right speed and ration for my memory.

When I set the settings in my BIOS to Linked with a 1:1 ratio, the FSB and memory values were equal, yet I thought a 1:1 ratio did NOT mean equal values as the memory is running double or something. Also, can I get my memory to ork at full speed (800MHz) and maintain a 1:1 stable ratio? As you can see I'm confused, please help.

Thanks in advance!

7900GT
Core 2 duo E6550
Patriot 2GB PC2-6400 C4 Extreme Performance (CL 4-4-4-12)

You can run 1:1 at 400fsb.

400x4=1600 CPU FSB (QDR)
400x2=800 RAM


----------



## Maleficence

Thanks for the reply, what would that look like in the BIOS menu then? Would both values be at 400?

*Edit *- I just checked my current values, and they're set to 1333.3 for FSB and 800 for the RAM. So does this mean my RAM is running faster than my FSB? Should I increase my FSB as far as it will go, then halve the value to get what my RAM should be?

What I don't get is that when I previously selected auto linked 1:1 it set the values as equal, is this an error, or am I missing something?

Also how do I enter and check my RAM timings for optimum performance?

*Edit 2* - Right, I checked my BIOS again, and this time set the ratio linked to "sync" which seems to put the correct values in, I entered 1600 for the FSB and the RAM came up as 800. It's running at the moment fine at 2.8GHz, I'll orpheus it now for a few hours while I keep myself busy otherwise to make sure it's stable.


----------



## RyanB

hey Gauvenator, I changed my ram back to 800 and changed my timings to 5-5-5-18 2t.... it seems to work fine. I ran 3dmark and my score went up.

my ration in cpu-z is now like 8:11 or something like that?? is it bad to keep it like that?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maleficence*


Thanks for the reply, what would that look like in the BIOS menu then? Would both values be at 400?

*Edit *- I just checked my current values, and they're set to 1333.3 for FSB and 800 for the RAM. So does this mean my RAM is running faster than my FSB? Should I increase my FSB as far as it will go, then halve the value to get what my RAM should be?

What I don't get is that when I previously selected auto linked 1:1 it set the values as equal, is this an error, or am I missing something?

Also how do I enter and check my RAM timings for optimum performance?

*Edit 2* - Right, I checked my BIOS again, and this time set the ratio linked to "sync" which seems to put the correct values in, I entered 1600 for the FSB and the RAM came up as 800. It's running at the moment fine at 2.8GHz, I'll orpheus it now for a few hours while I keep myself busy otherwise to make sure it's stable.


You can set your RAM timings under Advanced, Chipset, then Memory Timings. Chipset might be under JumperFree Configuration, so check there if you don't see it right away.

Once you're in the Memory timings options, set the top group to your manufacturer's defaults. Don't worry about the bottom group, those can be left to auto.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RyanB*


hey Gauvenator, I changed my ram back to 800 and changed my timings to 5-5-5-18 2t.... it seems to work fine. I ran 3dmark and my score went up.

my ration in cpu-z is now like 8:11 or something like that?? is it bad to keep it like that?


The weird ratio is fine, as long as you're stable.


----------



## Maleficence

Thanks a lot gauvenator for the help, all is good in PC land. Appreciate the help!


----------



## ZionEx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


You're running a 45nm at 1.7V? I hope you're using LN2 or its going to last about a week before it dies.


I said i had the FSB running at 1.7 not the CPU. Big difference.


----------



## Kopi

1.7 really? What FSB are you running I only need 1.5 on stock cooling to do 485fsb


----------



## r0b126

Am copying my posts from slizone.com

Am having some trouble w/ Asus P5N-E 650i SLi and the E8400

This is a little strange. I removed the E6750 and replaced it with an E8400. Reset bios back to factory defaults and when I booted into windows, I had the following:

ProbeII-
overall CPU: 34C
MB 39C

CoreTemp-
Core #0 46C
Core #1 39C

CPU-Z has my multiplier at 6 as it was in the bios. and a core speed of 2000MHz at first, changed the bus speed to 400 (1600 QDR) and it jumped to 2400 (6x400).

Even when I change the multiplier to 9, the start up screen after POST shows 2.4GHz w/ 2 cores and CPU-Z says 2.4GHz w/ a multiplier of 6. Windows and CoreTemp however, say that its using a multiplier of 6 and a bus speed of 600 (way off) and that my core speed is 3600MHz

here's a SS of some stuff:










Also, when I boot up, it says I need a bios update to unleash the CPU's full power (literally says that)

I was by default using the 0703 for this board. The 0608 is raved about on overclock.net which is what I am going to try next. I did flash to the 0801 bios which generally has no trouble with OCing and is newer than the 0608 and I got the same results. Will post back after the next flash. Any ideas whats generating these weird numbers?

--separate post---

Ok, I thought maybe resetting to factory defaults, then flashing without saving an exitting first might have had something to do with why some of my settings were still the same after the flash (which is unusual). I reset to defaults, save & exited, then went back into the bios, flashed, rebooted, went back into the bios a 3rd time and changed bios settings to what I wanted.

No luck...
CoreTemp and windows thinks the CPU is running at 3600MHz
CPU-Z and the startup screen after POST says 2.4GHz w/ 2 cores.

Any ideas or suggestions?

note: have tried with the 0703, 0608, and 0801 bios so far


----------



## ZionEx

I was trying to hit 500mhz. I am going to mess with it more tonight probably to try and get it stable at a higher clock. I want to hit 4ghz with this thing.


----------



## ZionEx

r0b126, go into the bios and change the multiplier to 9. I have heard of these defaulting to a lower multiplier.

Oh, flash your board to the 803 update. That is probably why it is not recognizing the processor multi properly.

When flashing, make sure you do the following:

1: Load default settings, save, reboot
2: Flash BIOS, reboot
3: Go into BIOS and load defaults again, save, reboot
4: Have fun.


----------



## r0b126

I changed it to 9 already, even when I go back it says 9, but appears to be using a 6.

I will look for the 0803 and try that one if there really is an issue with it not using the right multiplier thats been fixed.

Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


1.7 really? What FSB are you running I only need 1.5 on stock cooling to do 485fsb


ooh I've been wondering about voltages on the nb corresponding with fsb. About what fsb do you start to need 1.5? Cuz I've been having instability around 400 with stock volts and was thinking that's the problem(currently I'm waiting for my HR-05 to arrive before I up the volts).


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maleficence*


Thanks a lot gauvenator for the help, all is good in PC land. Appreciate the help!










Glad I was able to help.


----------



## ZionEx

I learned that you want to run your NB voltage at 1.5 if you are overclocking at all. Big improvement with stability and does not increase your temps much especially if you have nice cooling.

I'm using TT Extreme Spirit II


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZionEx*


I learned that you want to run your NB voltage at 1.5 if you are overclocking at all. Big improvement with stability and does not increase your temps much especially if you have nice cooling.


Glad that's the case cuz I just spent $16 on an HR-05. I've been wanting 1.5v for a while, just I was worried about the stock cooler not being able to handle it.


----------



## r0b126

I have the stock heatsink from asus sitting on the NB...SB never gets hot in my experience. gonna OC to 4GHz... think I'll need a NB voltage boost / better cooling?

I will of course test out what its using now and see if its stable as is. brb after bios reflash of 0803


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


I have the stock heatsink from asus sitting on the NB...SB never gets hot in my experience. gonna OC to 4GHz... think I'll need a NB voltage boost / better cooling?

I will of course test out what its using now and see if its stable as is. brb after bios reflash of 0803


The stock hs feels pretty hot even with stock volts at 1600fsb, same with the sb heatsink I added. If you're going to OC that much you should definitely cool the soutbridge, and you'll probably need to at least reseat the nb hs with some good thermal compound cuz you'll probably need to up the volts to 1.5v.


----------



## ZionEx

The SB actually does get pretty warm so I found a really small heatsink at work and put it on. Both my NB and SB heatsinks are using AS5. I need to buy some more for later use though.

The HR-05 is a good choice and should get you some really nice temps.

I may try to buy another cooler for the SB too though. I'm also using the Geminii on my CPU so that helps circulate air all over my board.

OffTopic:Once the temps outside warm up and I can get a big metal bucket I will finally be able to strip off the undercoating from my real case i put on it in error and actually get back to work on painting it so I can eventually have some nice airflow again....


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZionEx*


The SB actually does get pretty warm so I found a really small heatsink at work and put it on. Both my NB and SB heatsinks are using AS5. I need to buy some more for later use though.

The HR-05 is a good choice and should get you some really nice temps.

I may try to buy another cooler for the SB too though. I'm also using the Geminii on my CPU so that helps circulate air all over my board.

Once the temps outside warm up and I can get a big metal bucket I will finally be able to strip off the undercoating from my real case i put on it in error and actually get back to work on painting it....


I used a Cooler Master Blue Ice (heatsink only) for my sb, but if you're not going to have anything over the sb there are other (probably better) alternatives.

oh and have fun painting your case


----------



## r0b126

ok, the 0803 solved the multiplier issue, thx

gonna get to OC testing and post back when finished.


----------



## ZionEx

I had considered the Blue Ice but I didn't like that it didn't have any way to secure it besides the adhesive thermal tape. They run the risk of randomly falling off and has happened to a lot of people from what I gather. One guy even had it on his NB and when it fell of landed on his graphics card well yeah you can guess where that went. I think the HR-05 is actually supposed to be a good choice for the SB.

I have a lot done with my case its just the doors and the actual case its self needs to be redone cause of the crappy undercoating =(


----------



## ZionEx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok, the 0803 solved the multiplier issue, thx

gonna get to OC testing and post back when finished.



Awesome, glad that fixed it for you, figured that was it. Enjoy the overclocking but keep an eye on those temps since you are running stock. Also I found on my MOBO only Coretemp and Hmonitor would let me see the temps of my individual cores with the E8400. E4400 I could see it with everything so it may have to do the the BIOS update, unsure.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZionEx*


I had considered the Blue Ice but I didn't like that it didn't have any way to secure it besides the adhesive thermal tape. They run the risk of randomly falling off and has happened to a lot of people from what I gather. One guy even had it on his NB and when it fell of landed on his graphics card well yeah you can guess where that went. I think the HR-05 is actually supposed to be a good choice for the SB.

I have a lot done with my case its just the doors and the actual case its self needs to be redone cause of the crappy undercoating =(


Yah I heard about that tape so I used Arctic Alumina Epoxy instead, and it's holding up fine so far. It helped alot once there was some airflow over it. My temps dropped from the 40's to the 30's..can't wait to see the temps once I get the NB cooled.

I haven't painted my case, but I have modded it a bit for my wc setup...it was tricky fitting a WC setup into/onto a cramped midtower.


----------



## r0b126

not using stock cpu cooler....zalmans cnps9700 ftw

another c/p...issues issues

friggin issues =/

System is failing to post just about any time I edit the bios and reboot. I can interrupt post and reboot and then it boots just fine, but it ignores the changes in the previous edit and warns me that the last bios update caused a boot fail, etc...

Am trying to use the following settings:

1600FSB
9x multiplier (works prior to these problems)
1.10000 volts to cpu
4-4-4-12 2T timing on the memory


----------



## r0b126

jumped the voltage from 1.1 to 1.225 and it didn't fail boot this time... as I write this, during post, it reset itself...now I have a failed post msg...gonna see if the changes stuck


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


not using stock cpu cooler....zalmans cnps9700 ftw

another c/p...issues issues

friggin issues =/

System is failing to post just about any time I edit the bios and reboot. I can interrupt post and reboot and then it boots just fine, but it ignores the changes in the previous edit and warns me that the last bios update caused a boot fail, etc...

Am trying to use the following settings:

1600FSB
9x multiplier (works prior to these problems)
1.10000 volts to cpu
4-4-4-12 2T timing on the memory


Try gradually upping your FSB in 20mhz increments instead of jumping all the way to 1600. You may need more vcore too, and this board is known to have an fsb hole around 400


----------



## r0b126

This particular board doesn't have an issue with a hole there. Although another one I owned of this same model did. The 1.225 volts looks like it took care of it. Temps are decent for not having tweaked it atm

right now its 9x 333 3ghz
1.248v reading in cpu-z

weird, thought I lowered it to 1700 for testing. Gonna reboot and adjust and post back rq

ultimate goal is 1800MHz FSB

Intel has a max voltage of 1.36 listed. I have no intention of using that unless I can keep the CPU cool enough. But I don't think it will come to that. I'd like to lower the voltage later if its stable...simply to have lower voltage. Even if the temps didn't improve dramatically


----------



## r0b126

ok, I rebooted and during POST before I got into the bios, the machine reset itself, posted again and then let me in the bios

???

edit: wow...where did I learn to do math..accidentally raised it to 1700 instead of lowering it to 1500 like I meant to do

lowered back to 1600 and upped the voltage a tad more....no weird reboot issues.

will lower voltage once I have it stable at the FSB I want provided temps stay low


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok, I rebooted and during POST before I got into the bios, the machine reset itself, posted again and then let me in the bios

???

edit: wow...where did I learn to do math..accidentally raised it to 1700 instead of lowering it to 1500 like I meant to do

lowered back to 1600 and upped the voltage a tad more....no weird reboot issues.

will lower voltage once I have it stable at the FSB I want provided temps stay low


keep in mind past 1600 you may need more nb voltage to be completely stable. In my experience I can post more than 1600 and even get into windows, but the slightest stress involving multiple components will freeze the pc. Can't wait until I get my HR-05.


----------



## r0b126

got a link to some good NB coolers?

I once removed a stock heatsink from one of these mobos off the SB and I had to tear the living mess out of it, probably even damaged that board, to get it off.

Is the NB heatsink the same way? Hate doing things that are a royal pita.

I'm also hoping not to have to drop a ton of money on it.

edit: p.s. what do you use to monitor NB and SB temps? Other than sticking your hand on the heatsink

grr...got a failed post msg...upping the voltage again


----------



## r0b126

trying 1.325 v


----------



## r0b126

froze during post


----------



## r0b126

1.31875 inc

same result =/

will try something higher than 1.325


----------



## r0b126

Windows could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt:
<Windows root>\\system32\\hal.dll
Please re-install a copy of the above file.

uhh???


----------



## r0b126

trying 1.285....thinking it didn't like having that much juice....what do you think?

friggin rebooted midpost again
(#()$*#$&@^#^@%#!%%#@


----------



## r0b126

is 1.393v on the NB safe to use with the stock cooler?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


got a link to some good NB coolers?

I once removed a stock heatsink from one of these mobos off the SB and I had to tear the living mess out of it, probably even damaged that board, to get it off.

Is the NB heatsink the same way? Hate doing things that are a royal pita.

I'm also hoping not to have to drop a ton of money on it.

edit: p.s. what do you use to monitor NB and SB temps? Other than sticking your hand on the heatsink

grr...got a failed post msg...upping the voltage again


One of the temp sensors on the board gives a general motherboard temp. Sadly there aren't individual sensors on this mobo for sb and nb.

I haven't removed it yet, but it probably will be a pita to get it off and the junk thermal paste they use. I'll report back about the temps with my Thermalright HR-05 I should be getting this week.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


is 1.393v on the NB safe to use with the stock cooler?


Yes, I believe that is stock.


----------



## r0b126

ok, manually set it to 1.393....cross your fingers

it froze


----------



## r0b126

all the freezing is when I try to run the mem at 900MHz

guess I have to use 800/1600 at 3.6GHz
not a huge sacrifice, but I really wanted to be able to say I clocked it at 4GHz lol

guess I'll start testing for stability in orthos


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
all the freezing is when I try to run the mem at 900MHz

guess I have to use 800/1600 at 3.6GHz
not a huge sacrifice, but I really wanted to be able to say I clocked it at 4GHz lol

guess I'll start testing for stability in orthos

Have you disabled all unnecessary features in the BIOS? (spread spectrum, legacy usb...anything you don't use)
and 3.6 is still pretty fast...


----------



## r0b126

got a list of things I can disable that might help me get to 900MHz on the memory?

I have my memory voltage set to 2.085, I don't want to raise it higher because spec is 2.1 and the next setting is like 2.175 or something


----------



## marsey99

rob put your ram in the black slots if you want above ddr800.

1.34v on the nb should be alright but it will get warm under load, if you want to push your ram higher tho you will need to give it 1.56v so you will need to get some better cooling for it.

yes it is a pita to refit and the longer you leave it the harder the stock pink [email protected] they use as thermal paste will go. stress it a bit b4 you try to take it of so that it is slightly warm when you try to remove it and twist it side to side first to loosen the paste.

if you are looking for a replacement i would go with the hr-05 or the nc-06.


----------



## Perry

Awww...no love for me?


----------



## ZionEx

r0b, as I said in an earlier post, run the NB at 1.5v. This makes in much more stable especially when trying to overclock. The E8400 can be run all the way up to 1.4v and probably will have to be if you plan on hitting 4ghz as that is usually about what it takes. The memory may need a bump to its voltage if you are trying to OC it. I am not that familiar with your particular model. I know with my memory I can get it to run at 1000mhz using the stock 2.2v.

Perry, what voltages are you using for your NB?


----------



## marsey99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZionEx* 
Perry, what voltages are you using for your NB?

+1


----------



## scollinguk

Hi Guys,

Just a quick one, what do temp2 and temp3 correspond to in speedfan for the P5N-E SLI?

Many Thanks,

S


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
rob put your ram in the black slots if you want above ddr800.

1.34v on the nb should be alright but it will get warm under load, if you want to push your ram higher tho you will need to give it 1.56v so you will need to get some better cooling for it.

yes it is a pita to refit and the longer you leave it the harder the stock pink [email protected] they use as thermal paste will go. stress it a bit b4 you try to take it of so that it is slightly warm when you try to remove it and twist it side to side first to loosen the paste.

if you are looking for a replacement i would go with the hr-05 or the nc-06.

you think it would be safe to uses a hair-dryer on it to warm it up?


----------



## ZionEx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scollinguk* 
Hi Guys,

Just a quick one, what do temp2 and temp3 correspond to in speedfan for the P5N-E SLI?

Many Thanks,

S

I don't remember but something of note is that after upping my BIOS to 0803, I now have two extra temps showing up I didn't have before...


----------



## ZionEx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
you think it would be safe to uses a hair-dryer on it to warm it up?


For sure, you won't damage the board with a hair dryer it would take a lot more heat than that but still dont leave it on there for too long of an unnecessary time or else


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ZionEx* 
I don't remember but something of note is that after upping my BIOS to 0803, I now have two extra temps showing up I didn't have before...

Are they false readings? or possibly north and south bridge readings?


----------



## ZionEx

Fairly certain they are false readings given that they NEVER fluctuate.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Are there different revisions of the P5N-E SLI other than *REV. 1.01g*?


----------



## scollinguk

Okay, cool. I will hide them then.

Cheers, S


----------



## ZionEx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scollinguk*


Okay, cool. I will hide them then.

Cheers, S


Well I am unsure about yours, if they fluctuate then they have some purpose if they are static and never change then they are worthless in my opinion.


----------



## scollinguk

Hey,

Temp3 stays at 25 constantly. Temp2 seems to always be a degree or two below the CPU temp.

S


----------



## scottk

Hi all - I searched but "boot trouble" is a pretty generic term lol. I have a new homebuilt: Asus P5N-E, C2D E6750, 2G Corsiar XMS2 6400C4 and MSI 8600GT "twin turbo" (stupidest name ever!).

I got the memory settings manually dialed in, runs stable as can be. Overclocked to 2.9G on stock volts and also ran fine. PC is less than 1 week old, and twice now I had a serious boot problem where it won't even post - no beeps/nothing (which I think is completely unrelated to the overclock as it just happened again with cpu back to 2.66 ghz).

I thought flaky power supply so swapped to a spare I had and same behavior, then reseated CPU and made sure legacy USB turned off in bios, swapped memory one at a time and it kept failing to post, tried unplugging dvd drive same thing. Then I gave up and let it sit, and maybe 10 minutes later I powered it up and it started no problem. If it were a car I'd say I flooded it lol.

Does this sound like a MB problem? First guess would be a PS supply issue, but since it did it with 2 I assume it has to be MB, but I don't want to RMA back to newegg if it is likely something else. It's back up and running now, but I'm afraid to turn it off - MB bios is 0801 from 10/25/07.

Curious if anyone has had a similar issue?

Thanks!
Scott


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottk* 
Hi all - I searched but "boot trouble" is a pretty generic term lol. I have a new homebuilt: Asus P5N-E, C2D E6750, 2G Corsiar XMS2 6400C4 and MSI 8600GT "twin turbo" (stupidest name ever!).

I got the memory settings manually dialed in, runs stable as can be. Overclocked to 2.9G on stock volts and also ran fine. PC is less than 1 week old, and twice now I had a serious boot problem where it won't even post - no beeps/nothing (which I think is completely unrelated to the overclock as it just happened again with cpu back to 2.66 ghz).

I thought flaky power supply so swapped to a spare I had and same behavior, then reseated CPU and made sure legacy USB turned off in bios, swapped memory one at a time and it kept failing to post, tried unplugging dvd drive same thing. Then I gave up and let it sit, and maybe 10 minutes later I powered it up and it started no problem. If it were a car I'd say I flooded it lol.

Does this sound like a MB problem? First guess would be a PS supply issue, but since it did it with 2 I assume it has to be MB, but I don't want to RMA back to newegg if it is likely something else. It's back up and running now, but I'm afraid to turn it off - MB bios is 0801 from 10/25/07.

Curious if anyone has had a similar issue?

Thanks!
Scott

First test your ram (all at one time) with Memtest86 for several hours and see if any errors occur. You'll need to burn a bootable disc of the ISO.


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
First test your ram (all at one time) with Memtest86 for several hours and see if any errors occur. You'll need to burn a bootable disc of the ISO.

Thanks - it's passed the full memtest test twice, but I ran that before the last won't boot issue. Apparently from the corsair ramguy forums this combo of memory & MB commonly requires manual setting of timing so I gave it a good shakedown after I built it. If I reset bios I have to pull one stick of RAM to even be able to get to bios setup, but once the settings are in it runs fine.

Would bad memory keep you from even starting POST? With the bad default timing/voltage it'd hang on "press del to enter setup or tab ..." but with the random power on issue it just never even seems to gets started.

Just ran orthos small fft for CPU shakedown, only 40 minutes but temp. leveled out at 43 on asus pc probe.

Well, maybe I'll run for a while at the non 6400-C4 settings of 5-5-5-18 instead of 4-4-4-12 to see if it reoccurs.


----------



## chmoosi

Hello

So I removed teh stock heatsink in the mobo BUT.. one of the screws broke. Do you know where I might get those screws (I'm talking about the black plastic ones) as getting a completely new heatsink would seem a bit stupid.

J


----------



## marsey99

if you buy a new one you get the push pins free









stock one is poor anyway m8, use this as the reason to get a better sink.

edit

get this one or this one, they are uk links but im sure you can google them.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ZionEx*


Perry, what voltages are you using for your NB?


I haven't made any changes to the northbridge voltage yet. Punch it up one knotch and give it another go at 3.4Ghz or put a bit more voltage into the CPU?


----------



## mmattheww

Hi there. So I've settled (for now) on the following overclock, but about 1 in 3 boots/reboots initiated by myself, my system won't post. It doesn't completely lock up on post -- I can hit reset and start over, at which point it usually posts and runs fine, but this seems unstable.

I've run Prime95 for 4 hours on this overclock without any problems... also played Crysis fine (the Prime95 is a better stability test, I know). In other words, the system seems rock solid when it's in Windows, but not so reliable booting up.

Any expert advice?









p.s. ram timings are 5-5-5-12 and ram is running at 400mhz 1.9v in mobo settings (rated 800mhz DDR-2 ram -- stock 1.8v)

p.p.s. i can't see how this would matter, _but _I took out the mobo battery and left it out. I did this so if the mobo freezes at post, I can turn off the power supply and return to stock mobo values. sooo, if that matters and that's the problem, I will be both happy and embarrassed


----------



## marsey99

perry set the nb to 1.4v and see if its better if not try 1.5v then if still no dice try upping the cpu again.

matt whats you nb set to? try 1.4/5v and give your cpu 1.35 and id bet on you getting 1333fsb.


----------



## Perry

Will this cause any major heat issues with the northbridge? I'm using only the stock heatsink although it has been removed, the stock TIM removed and some AS5 applied.

I can't have any hardware going *POP* on me.


----------



## RAR1309

does anyone know if these boards have a fsb wall as i cant seem to get past 3250Mhz. im also on stock cooling and under load temps are around 51C what is safe to push it to for 24/7 use??

thanks

Rich


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


does anyone know if these boards have a fsb wall as i cant seem to get past 3250Mhz. im also on stock cooling and under load temps are around 51C what is safe to push it to for 24/7 use??

thanks

Rich


Have you reseated the NB with AS5? That will help the NB temps and let you get to a higher FSB, some people have had troubles around the 400ish area, depends on the board, I run mine 24/7 at 400x8=3.2ghz, but I've had it stable at 450fsb, and can boot at upto 485 but I never got around to stabalizing it / took too much vcore for my liking.


----------



## marsey99

perry if you keep an eye on the temps you should be ok, i think you want to keep the nb under 55/60c so im sure you will be fine with stock cooling.

the fsb wall on this mobo is around the 500 mark if your cpu will take you there but it is full of fsb blackholes.


----------



## RAR1309

no i havent reseated it, im quite new to overclocking really so im ashamed to say it but i havent built a rig yet, i know its shocking and you technical heroes will laugh, but i dont want to spend 400 to then go screw it up.

rich


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


no i havent reseated it, im quite new to overclocking really so im ashamed to say it but i havent built a rig yet, i know its shocking and you technical heroes will laugh, but i dont want to spend 400 to then go screw it up.

rich


Alright then I would say if you have a extra fan set it up so it blows across the NB and cools it off a bit, that should let you push the FSB up a bit higher.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RAR1309*


no i havent reseated it, im quite new to overclocking really so im ashamed to say it but i havent built a rig yet, i know its shocking and you technical heroes will laugh, but i dont want to spend 400 to then go screw it up.

rich


Gotta start somewhere.

Half of the stuff I've done up to this point I've only done once but luckily it's worked out other than a corrupted OS or two.


----------



## Gauvenator

Finally got my HR-05!! Pushed the NB volts to 1.5 and now I'm at 450fsb no prob. So far stable in Orthos Blend (which formerly caused lots of freezes for me, even at 400fsb). I could go higher probably, but I had to push over 1.41 vcore to get here, and my temps aren't glamorous for the cpu. However, the motherboard runs as hot as it used to except now it's running 1.5v! Installation wasn't too hard, just a scare when I scratched the mobo.


----------



## scottk

Well, my no boot/POST hasn't reappeared so maybe it was a two time only quirk (yeah I'm not counting on that, but maybe it was just a random bad connection somewhere).

Since it happened at stock speed it did let me go back to an overclock. My CPU or MB must be on the weak side, as I can't do 3.0Ghz on stock voltage. Right now I'm at 2.9 Ghz and tweaked my Vcore to be stock 1.35 at full load/droop, so the "undrooped" Vcore is 1.39V. Good enough for now, if I decide the no boot issue really was a fluke I'll play around to get a more respectable OC, I just don't want to mess with it too much if an RMA is in my future.


----------



## marsey99

i have just flashed up to 0803 and altho everything is working at my 24/7 settings i have yet to test it for max fsb and that.

i did however get a great suprise when upon my first post it booted with my fsb set at 1066 not its default 800, this was an auto setting. not that arsed like but it made me smile.

anyone else using this bios and found any other funny things?

fyi

i did it because my older bios doesnt support the quad im about to get later this month and i just wanted to get it sorted beforehand.


----------



## mcogan10

hey everyone. I overclocked my 6400 last night to 3.2G with 1.381vcore and the 1.3something voltage on my northbridge. I tried going to 3.3G with a 1650fsb, but it wouldnt work, even when i increased the vcore to 1.42, the nb to 1.5, and my memory to 2.2 and 5-5-5-15 timings...anything im doing wrong here?

also, should i update my bios asap?


----------



## marsey99

id guess its a fsb black hole but above 3.2ghz is when the conroe gets power hungry, try it with your nb back at 1.4v and up your cpu to about 1.45v.

edit

edit, it could be your trying to force a bad divider on your fsb/ram too????


----------



## [FDG]Explosion

ANyone have experience with this board and my memory? I have a interesting little problem i think is my memory not playing nice with it......


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


Well, my no boot/POST hasn't reappeared so maybe it was a two time only quirk (yeah I'm not counting on that, but maybe it was just a random bad connection somewhere).

Since it happened at stock speed it did let me go back to an overclock. My CPU or MB must be on the weak side, as I can't do 3.0Ghz on stock voltage. Right now I'm at 2.9 Ghz and tweaked my Vcore to be stock 1.35 at full load/droop, so the "undrooped" Vcore is 1.39V. Good enough for now, if I decide the no boot issue really was a fluke I'll play around to get a more respectable OC, I just don't want to mess with it too much if an RMA is in my future.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


hey everyone. I overclocked my 6400 last night to 3.2G with 1.381vcore and the 1.3something voltage on my northbridge. I tried going to 3.3G with a 1650fsb, but it wouldnt work, even when i increased the vcore to 1.42, the nb to 1.5, and my memory to 2.2 and 5-5-5-15 timings...anything im doing wrong here?

also, should i update my bios asap?


Both of you could be in fsb holes. Try jumping 30fsb or so above what you're trying, and see if it works.
mcogan10 what bios are you currently running? 0608 is the best for oc'ing according to what I've heard.


----------



## marsey99

explosion have you tried them in the black slots? you may find that upping the nb to 1.56v may help also.


----------



## [FDG]Explosion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


explosion have you tried them in the black slots? you may find that upping the nb to 1.56v may help also.


Ill try the 1.56v NB Voltage if you guys think its safe on stock NB cooling? I normally run 29-32Âº @ 1.4v, which im told is cool for these boards.

I run the black slots. A teammate of mine bought the board around the same day as me and said he couldnt get 1T and resonable timings outta the yellows (Teh boards are REAL early models, we ordered within days of their public release). He also redirected me to a few things on anandtech saying to avoid them liek the plague. Tried the yellows after a BIOS update, still had the problem and could not get stock timings in them...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[FDG]Explosion*


Ill try the 1.56v NB Voltage if you guys think its safe on stock NB cooling? I normally run 29-32Âº @ 1.4v, which im told is cool for these boards.

I run the black slots. A teammate of mine bought the board around the same day as me and said he couldnt get 1T and resonable timings outta the yellows (Teh boards are REAL early models, we ordered within days of their public release). He also redirected me to a few things on anandtech saying to avoid them liek the plague. Tried the yellows after a BIOS update, still had the problem and could not get stock timings in them...










1T generally does not work well with this mobo. Try 2T for best stability. If you have a really early bios, then you should definitely upgrade to 0608.


----------



## mcogan10

i would update my bios, but i dont have a floppy in my dorm room at the moment...
also, wahts up with me not being able to change my multiplier? I change it in the bios, and when i get back out of it and go to windows, its still at 8.


----------



## raycityclick

I've been trying to overclock my q6600 UNLINKED but everytime i go past 1200 it locks up at post and i can't even do the soft boot to restore the bios, I have to clear cmos, the only way i can overclock is to use use the overclock feature at 20% which puts my fsb at 1279 and mem at 957. i have also tryied linked with ratio synced which also gives me a good post and a 2/3 or 3/2 ratio which also works but not unlinked. i also tried 1300 fsb with vcore at 1.33 and stepped up the NB one notch and still no post. any ideas?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


i would update my bios, but i dont have a floppy in my dorm room at the moment...
also, wahts up with me not being able to change my multiplier? I change it in the bios, and when i get back out of it and go to windows, its still at 8.


Your cpu has the multi locked. Most do, except for the extreme versions.


----------



## [FDG]Explosion

Said it was an early production board, im running 0608. So ill bop my command rate to 2, its what ive been running recently anyways cause i been trying to OC with it.

So my temps Ok to go all teh way up to 1.5 or 1.56? was told the NB can take GPU level temperatures, like 80Âº by many a member here.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[FDG]Explosion*


Said it was an early production board, im running 0608. So ill bop my command rate to 2, its what ive been running recently anyways cause i been trying to OC with it.

So my temps Ok to go all teh way up to 1.5 or 1.56? was told the NB can take GPU level temperatures, like 80Âº by many a member here.


It's hard to tell with this motherboard exactly what temps the nb is getting. It just has a sensor for a general temp of the mobo, not individual for the nb and sb.

That said, before you go 1.5 on the nb, you should at least reseat the stock cooler with a better thermal paste, like Arctic Silver 5, Tuniq TX-2, Arctic Cooling MX-2...nonconductive pastes are a good choice.

If you want to take it a step further, you can purchase an aftermarket cooler such as the Thermalright HR-05.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Both of you could be in fsb holes. Try jumping 30fsb or so above what you're trying, and see if it works.
mcogan10 what bios are you currently running? 0608 is the best for oc'ing according to what I've heard.


Thanks, I'm back at 3.0G and it seems stable as can be. 46 degrees after running orthos for an hour, like 33/34 idle. I still have my volatge up a bit but will try and back down to stock. Not sure what is different, unless my last round of reseating everything fixed it - or maybe I really just did need the extra .04 volts. Good enough for a 16.9 second 1M super pi run.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Stable I can run a 1120 FSB, or 1234 FSB she does not like anything in between, but that is it. Does not like it if I under clock the RAM.

I can get it to post at 1333 FSB, but it hangs at the Windows welcome screen. This is at 1.46 Vcore, and 1.56 NB, 2.013 Memory.

This chip did 2.7 @1.328 on my AsROCK board.

Anybody have an idea?


----------



## marsey99

not sure about yours but mine wont play if i give it too much volts, 3ghz only wants 1.35v, if i give it 1.4v it wont boot @ 3ghz but will at 3.2ghz.

try it with 1.4v on the nb and 1.35v for the cpu on 1333 fsb with your ram 1:1on 667.

as said above this mobo has alot of black holes in the fsb and that would explain some of your failed posts, got to be honest tho, you need better cooling as even lapped the stock blower that comes with these chips is ****.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


not sure about yours but mine wont play if i give it too much volts, 3ghz only wants 1.35v, if i give it 1.4v it wont boot @ 3ghz but will at 3.2ghz.

try it with 1.4v on the nb and 1.35v for the cpu on 1333 fsb with your ram 1:1on 667.

as said above this mobo has alot of black holes in the fsb and that would explain some of your failed posts, got to be honest tho, you need better cooling as even lapped the stock blower that comes with these chips is ****.


Got me closer, it made it to desktop then froze. Think I am going to live with 1240 FSB until I go water cooling.

My temps are ok, not the best but ok, 42/40 browsing the internet right now on stock cooling (lapped chip and cooler, side air duct with a 80mm feeding fresh air)


----------



## Wobbley

I am new to this whole overclocking buisness and can only do the simple stuff like changing FSB and changing voltage. I got a some questions though concerning overclocking, and decided to do it in here since this is the mobo i have.

1. I decided to update the bios from 0801 to 0803 I used to run the system at about 1230 FSB or so if i am not mistaken. After updating it to 0803 i cant run it above 1130 without it bluescreening before getting into Vista. I even tried the AI overclock to 15% (which is a little less then i previously had it) It crashed aswell. I mean you see the bluescreen for a milisecond and then the computer reboots.

2. I have not tried on the newest bios when i was running at 0801 changing memorey voltage in BIOS did not seem to work. I went to check voltages in programs like everest and CPU-Z even though bios said 2.175V (or something) the software only stated 1,8V

Its quite late here so il try playing with it more tomorow but i just wanted to post in here too see if i can get some advice







I'l leave my system specs below, i hope the list aint too long.

Computer:
Computer Type ACPI x86-basert PC
Operating System Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium
OS Service Pack Service Pack 1
Internet Explorer 7.0.6001.18000
DirectX DirectX 10.0
Computer Name D-MAN
User Name Dean
Logon Domain D-man
Date / Time 2008-02-10 / 00:38

Motherboard:
CPU Type QuadCore Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, 2533 MHz (9 x 281)
Motherboard Name Asus P5N-E SLI (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
Motherboard Chipset nVIDIA nForce 650i SLI
System Memory 3328 MB (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM)
DIMM1: GeIL CL4-4-4DDR2-800 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM2: GeIL CL4-4-4DDR2-800 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM3: GeIL CL4-4-4DDR2-800 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
DIMM4: GeIL CL4-4-4DDR2-800 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
BIOS Type Award (12/26/07)
Communication Port Kommunikasjonsport (COM1)
Communication Port Standard Serial over Bluetooth link (COM6)
Communication Port Standard Serial over Bluetooth link (COM7)
Communication Port Skriverport (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX (768 MB)
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX (768 MB)
3D Accelerator nVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTX
Monitor LG L204WT (Digital) [20" LCD] (170312592)
Monitor Video7 R19W11 [19" LCD] (64488951)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter Creative SB X-Fi XtremeGamer Sound Card

Storage:
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller NVIDIA nForce Serial ATA Controller
IDE Controller Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
Storage Controller JMicron JMB36X Controller
Storage Controller Microsoft iSCSI Initiator
Storage Controller SCSI/RAID Host Controller
Floppy Drive Diskettstasjon
Disk Drive SAMSUNG HD321KJ SCSI Disk Device (320 GB, 7200 RPM, SATA-II)
Optical Drive TSSTcorp CD/DVDW SH-S182D ATA Device (DVD+R9:8x, DVD-R9:8x, DVD+RW:18x/8x, DVD-RW:18x/6x, DVD-RAM:12x, DVD-ROM:16x, CD:48x/32x/48x DVD+RW/DVD-RW/DVD-RAM)
SMART Hard Disks Status Unknown

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 296441 MB (82174 MB free)
D: (NTFS) 8801 MB (4007 MB free)
Total Size 298.1 GB (84.2 GB free)

Input:
Keyboard HID Keyboard Device
Mouse Saitek GM3200 Gaming Mouse (HID)

Network:
Primary IP Address 10.0.0.4
Primary MAC Address 00-1A-92-4E-C6-0C
Network Adapter Bluetooth-enhet (Personal Area Network) #2
Network Adapter NVIDIA nForce Networking Controller (10.0.0.4)

Peripherals:
Printer Canon MP610 series Printer (Kopier 1)
Printer Canon MP610 series Printer (Kopier 2)
Printer Canon MP610 series Printer
Printer Microsoft XPS Document Writer
FireWire Controller VIA VT6306/6307 Fire II IEEE1394 Host Controller (PHY: VIA VT6307)
USB1 Controller nVIDIA nForce 430i (MCP51) - OHCI USB 1.1 Controller
USB2 Controller nVIDIA nForce 430i (MCP51) - EHCI USB 2.0 Controller
USB Device Generic Bluetooth Radio
USB Device Generisk USB-hub
USB Device Razer Tarantula USB Keyboard
USB Device Razer Tarantula USB Keyboard
USB Device Saitek GM3200 Gaming Mouse (USB)
USB Device Ukjent enhet
USB Device USB Composite Device

DMI:
DMI BIOS Vendor Phoenix Technologies, LTD
DMI BIOS Version ASUS P5N-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0803
DMI System Manufacturer System manufacturer
DMI System Product System Product Name
DMI System Version System Version
DMI System Serial Number System Serial Number
DMI System UUID 2C7322FC-8B7ADA11-A13D8761-C82F1032
DMI Motherboard Manufacturer ASUSTeK Computer INC.
DMI Motherboard Product P5N-E SLI
DMI Motherboard Version 1.XX
DMI Motherboard Serial Number 123456789000
DMI Chassis Manufacturer Chassis Manufacture
DMI Chassis Version Chassis Version
DMI Chassis Serial Number EVAL
DMI Chassis Asset Tag 123456789000
DMI Chassis Type Desktop Case
DMI Total / Free Memory Sockets 4 / 0


----------



## tankman12

To make it easier on everyone, just input your sytem specs here. That way you wont have to type it in everytime you have a question. BTW, Welcome to OCN as well.

On to your questions, from what I have gathered this board is not too friendly for overclocking quads. But to get started, there are a few things you want to make sure of before you start overclocking. Here are some tips from dpawl(post #3):

Quote:

Tips and Hints:
Any help would be appreciated: Please PM dpawl31 (me!) with any suggestions!
(Overclocking options can be found under JUMPERFREE Configuration-->MANUAL)

*Firstly - Talk to people here! Go to the last page, introduce yourself, and we'll get you started.*
If you haven't already, check your BIOS and make sure you are running 03** series bios or higher. 0202 was first release and VERY flaky.
Enter RAM timings and voltage manually. Helps stability.
Disable all features not neccessary, ie firewire, if you run all SATA drives, disable IDE channels... etc.
Run Orthos or OCCT for 6+ hours at all stock settings to test for stabilty at stock, to make sure everything is OK at the norm. This will help you to not blame your OC for stability problems, such as forgetting to set your RAM timings and having the auto timings cause a failed OC.
FSB and RAM are already finalized values. Intel chips are QUAD pumped (QDR) and RAM is DDR. For example, if you have an 800FSB rated chip, your REAL FSB is 200Mhz (What CPUZ will display) but will display as 800FSB in BIOS. Same with RAM, but it is DUAL, so DDR2-800 RAM will display as 800 in BIOS, but 400Mhz in CPUZ.
When overclocking, run a 1:1 divider for stability. This can be achieved by using UNLINKED mode and MANUALLY entering 1:1 values, ie 1000FSB and 500DDR, or you can choose LINKED-->SYNC Mode to run a 1:1 divider.
AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.
To find your MAX CPU overclock without overclocking RAM, to eliminate it as the cause of a failed overclock, use full UNLINKED mode, to allow you to manually set your RAM to its full speed without overclocking it. This will allow you to UP the FSB as much as you need.

Once you get all that setup, post back and we'll start oc'ing.


----------



## bnceo

So, for anyone who cares:

Tried out the 3rd motherboard I got and I still get freezes inside Windows. So I went to another motherboard and I still got the same problem (with a fresh format btw).

Conclusion: It is not the motherboard. Most likely, it is my RAM or my video card causing issues. I will update my RAM info on my sig to see if anyone can tell me of any similar problems.


----------



## marsey99

bnceo

make sure your ram is running 4-4-4-12 2t in your bios on 2.18v and your nb is on 1.4v min.

if you still have problems try switching to the black slots.


----------



## Some Noob

Hi Guys and Girls first time poster long time reader, im new to the over clocking scene but have some experience. I have the latest bios 0803 and im trying to get back to 0608 as read in this forum its the best for overclocking with. The problem is i dont have a floppy and cant dos, i have tried the ezflash2 with a flashdrive but i cant work out how to do it. Currently i have added 100 to the fsb and im stable at 2.6 but i want to get it to 3.0 at least. Is it because of the newer bios i cant get any higher or my power supply 430watt not enough. Once i can get back to the older bios them im sure i eill have more questions for youz.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Some Noob*


Hi Guys and Girls first time poster long time reader, im new to the over clocking scene but have some experience. I have the latest bios 0803 and im trying to get back to 0608 as read in this forum its the best for overclocking with. The problem is i dont have a floppy and cant dos, i have tried the ezflash2 with a flashdrive but i cant work out how to do it. Currently i have added 100 to the fsb and im stable at 2.6 but i want to get it to 3.0 at least. Is it because of the newer bios i cant get any higher or my power supply 430watt not enough. Once i can get back to the older bios them im sure i eill have more questions for youz.

Thanks in advance.


Make a ISO CD and boot from CD/DVD drive

Here is deepburner if you need software
http://www.deepburner.com/?r=download

Here is some instructions if you need them.
http://www.xandros.com/products/howtoburndvd.html


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bnceo*


So, for anyone who cares:

Tried out the 3rd motherboard I got and I still get freezes inside Windows. So I went to another motherboard and I still got the same problem (with a fresh format btw).

Conclusion: It is not the motherboard. Most likely, it is my RAM or my video card causing issues. I will update my RAM info on my sig to see if anyone can tell me of any similar problems.










I had to manually set all my ram timing & voltage manually (corsair but not dominator) before I'd run stable. Reading the ramguy forum at corsair it's pretty common thing to have to do. For my XMS2 6400C4 I had to set 4-4-4-12 2T and also set the tRC to 22 with volts at 2.08

You should downoad memtest86 if you haven't yet, burn it to disk and then boot from that to test your memory. Take the windows / drivers issue out of the equation.


----------



## Some Noob

Hi that is high tech for me i have iso magic but cant get it to recognise the bios file it cant see it. And as for how to make it a boot up dist i know how to go to the bios and make it boot from cd, but thats about it. Wich the ezflash would pick up my usb im getting over it anymore sugesions.

Thanks again for the help


----------



## marsey99

if your running xp 32bit you can use the asus utillity and flash your bios from with in window not need to boot into dos or even bring up your bios.

get it from the asus website were your registered your mobo.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


not sure about yours but mine wont play if i give it too much volts, 3ghz only wants 1.35v, if i give it 1.4v it wont boot @ 3ghz but will at 3.2ghz.

try it with 1.4v on the nb and 1.35v for the cpu on 1333 fsb with your ram 1:1on 667.

as said above this mobo has alot of black holes in the fsb and that would explain some of your failed posts, got to be honest tho, you need better cooling as even lapped the stock blower that comes with these chips is ****.


Gah, Just figured out 1:1 this a.m. Shes at 3.0 GHZ DDR667 Temp of 39/37

Thanks Marsey +rep


----------



## bnceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


if your running xp 32bit you can use the asus utillity and flash your bios from with in window not need to boot into dos or even bring up your bios.

get it from the asus website were your registered your mobo.



I recommend loading a BIOS from the thumb drive using Asus EZ Flash. So beats the windows version of things.


----------



## Blizzie

Hey all, haven't been here in a long time. But, does anyone have issues with this board and Crucial Ballistix Tracers? Or just normal Ballistix?

I'm having some instability issues; going to take my old RAM and try it again.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Hey all, haven't been here in a long time. But, does anyone have issues with this board and Crucial Ballistix Tracers? Or just normal Ballistix?

I'm having some instability issues; going to take my old RAM and try it again.

























I cant run mine more than 1000mhz but i have them at 950mhz atm.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I cant run mine more than 1000mhz but i have them at 950mhz atm.

800. 1000. 1066.
Still unstable. I tested a month ago and my systemw as stable.
Memtest for 22 rounds, all clear for RAM..
I think my mobo or CPU is dying.

NB voltage is at 1.5v already. Can't afford to go to 1.7v for 24/7 usage.


----------



## Asce

Well im pumping 2.225 ish volts trhough mine. Im surprised you cant get them to run at 800mhz stable.


----------



## aleiro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I cant run mine more than 1000mhz but i have them at 950mhz atm.


What are you voltage settings? I can run at 1000 but it isnt stable. Also, is there a droop on the ram, that is what i think the problem is..


----------



## Blizzie

I can run my Ballistix Tracers 1066 MHz at 2.15v stable 22 rounds in memtest. =S


----------



## aleiro

So i found how to get a high OC and 4gbs of ram @ 1000 mhz to work correctly. Only thing is it requires 1.748v on the NB. My specs are E6400 @ 2.88 @ 1.35v, 2x2gb of G.skill DDR2-8000 (1000mhz) ram, two 7600GT graphics cards and a couple of 500gb harddrives. I used to run 3.0ghz but with 4gb of ram the mobo doesnt like that unless you jack up the vcore to 1.4375v and set the ram to 800mhz. So anyway I ran 2.88ghz @ 1.35v, 4gb of ram @ 1000mhz @ 2.08v and set the NB at 1.748v. After 45mins my temps were 45c on the cpu and 38 on the NB. I took the side of the case off and touched the NB, it was hot but i could leave my fingers on it so it wasnt overheating. Basically i just want to know if 1.748 volts is safe and i am not going to need a new mobo in three months.

edit: i dont think i am going to runn 1.748v on the NB i am just going to buy the formula maximus i a week or two and give this board to my mom...lol.


----------



## Flyin18T

Hello all,

Here's my situation.....

Been running unlinked to see where I can get my FSB up to. I hit 1775, with my memory at 810. (I initially was running my FSB at 1620 with 1.3vcore, but once I upped FSB to the 1775 I had to up vcore to 1.5250 in order to get any stability.....might even have to go higher.) Once I had 1775 @ 1.5250v running, I ran Orthos fine for an hour. My core temps peaked around 65C which is kind of scary since I'm watercooled. I was able to get through 3dMark06 just fine. (15727 btw) However when I ran 3dMark05 everything locked up immediately...had to reboot. This has happened twice. I have a somewhat stable 3.55Mhz @ 1.525vcore, however whenever my vid cards come into play I get a lockup. Shall I up the vcore another notch? My NB is still set to auto....how do I know when I should be touching that? Should I not try going any further since my temps are getting high already? Am I finding the limits of my PSU and not realizing it?

Like I mentioned before, I can run 3.2Mhz @ 1.3v all day long while gaming like crazy and everything is 100% stable. (temps stable at 55C during Orthos with these settings)

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Some Noob

Hi peoples can any one please let me know the ram settings for ddr2 800 and voltage settings for 3.0 for my rig. At the moment i cant get more than 2.6 stable with i have the 0803 bios.

Thanks in advance


----------



## marsey99

not sure about you guys with quads but im not too impressed with 0803, 0404 was better fot my duo, but...

have you tried the tracers in the black slots?

if you dont know what volt your nb is at start at 1.4v and work up till you are stable, you may need to increase the pcie clock too so this stays stable.

3dmark05 is a lot more sensative to overclocking than 06 and does crash alot easier, just keep dropping it a bit at a time untill it runs fine.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

marsey99 said:


> if you dont know what volt your nb is at start at 1.4v and work up till you are stable, you may need to increase the pcie clock too so this stays stable.
> 
> 
> I am stable at 1333.3 FSB with the ram 1:1 at DDR667, can run Orthos for an hour (not the longest I know), super Pi, ntune stress test. But as soon as I try and run AM3, it crashes soon into the benchmark.
> 
> Do you think I need to up my PCIe frequency? What should I start at?
> 
> Thanks.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Some Noob*


Hi peoples can any one please let me know the ram settings for ddr2 800 and voltage settings for 3.0 for my rig. At the moment i cant get more than 2.6 stable with i have the 0803 bios.

Thanks in advance


Try running BIOS 0608. I had problems with 0701 and 0803 with my quad. Also I was able to use a super low Vcore of 1.225V to reach 3.0GHz (my VID is 1.2875V) I actually started much higher with the Vcore (about 1.43ish) and dropped it down when I couldn't get stable above 3.2GHz.

For your Vdimm 2.0V should be adequate for DDR2/800 speeds, although you should be able to use as much as 2.2V safely if needed. Your Vchipset should be 1.56V, although you might get lucky and be able to use 1.38V.

TBH this board is not so hot for OCing the quads- the VRM mosfets are inadequate to give enough clean power to run them much beyond 3.0- hence I'm looking into a P35/X38 board very soon.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


not sure about you guys with quads but im not too impressed with 0803, 0404 was better fot my duo, but...have you tried the tracers in the black slots?

if you dont know what volt your nb is at start at 1.4v and work up till you are stable, you may need to increase the pcie clock too so this stays stable.

3dmark05 is a lot more sensative to overclocking than 06 and does crash alot easier, just keep dropping it a bit at a time untill it runs fine.


The black slots are the only way to go. The yellow ones are notorious for being instable. My Ballistix (not tracer...)won't even do 800MHz 5-7-7-21 2T in the yellow slots, but run great 1000MHz 4-3-3-8 2T in the black ones.

As for BIOS IMO 0608 if you have a quad. I had very real issues with 0701 and 0803- I could not break 2.6GHz with either.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AMDCAMARO*


I am stable at 1333.3 FSB with the ram 1:1 at DDR667, can run Orthos for an hour (not the longest I know), super Pi, ntune stress test. But as soon as I try and run AM3, it crashes soon into the benchmark.

Do you think I need to up my PCIe frequency? What should I start at?

Thanks.


I ran into AM3 crashes and traced the problem to instability in my RAM. Made some timing and voltage adjustments and got it running good.

IMO there is no need to increase PCIe to increase stability. In fact when you increase the PCIe clock you run the very real risk of damaging your VGA card and/or PCIe slot. Max safe adjustment of the PCIe clock is about 104MHz, I've heard of guys running 110-115MHz


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
So i found how to get a high OC and 4gbs of ram @ 1000 mhz to work correctly. Only thing is it requires 1.748v on the NB. My specs are E6400 @ 2.88 @ 1.35v, 2x2gb of G.skill DDR2-8000 (1000mhz) ram, two 7600GT graphics cards and a couple of 500gb harddrives. I used to run 3.0ghz but with 4gb of ram the mobo doesnt like that unless you jack up the vcore to 1.4375v and set the ram to 800mhz. So anyway I ran 2.88ghz @ 1.35v, 4gb of ram @ 1000mhz @ 2.08v and set the NB at 1.748v. After 45mins my temps were 45c on the cpu and 38 on the NB. I took the side of the case off and touched the NB, it was hot but i could leave my fingers on it so it wasnt overheating. Basically i just want to know if 1.748 volts is safe and i am not going to need a new mobo in three months.

edit: i dont think i am going to runn 1.748v on the NB i am just going to buy the formula maximus i a week or two and give this board to my mom...lol.

Dam you! Ive got my NB set to 1.7 and it was still unstable at1066mhz







But my NB isnt going to cook itself since its under a Swiftech MCW30.


----------



## P1MP1NJ

im running 803 with a q6600 at 3.0ghz 1.367v vcore 1.39nb and beleive it or not i am running 4 sticks of 1gb crucial ballistix at 800mhz!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Dam you! Ive got my NB set to 1.7 and it was still unstable at1066mhz







But my NB isnt going to cook itself since its under a Swiftech MCW30.


lol...yeah. 1066 was flaky for me. I could run 1066 with my CPU stock, but not OCd. I had to drop to 1000 to keep my OC up.


----------



## Blizzie

Can someone give a little twist/shake to their northbridge heatsink and tell me if it's on tight? The right side (towards the RAM) seems fairly loose. Didn't notice it before but makes me kind of worried since there's no sensor for the temperature. I took off the heatsink before to apply AS5 instead of that junk that it came with (was as hard as rock xD) but I didn't remember it being loose. Thanks guys.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


So i found how to get a high OC and 4gbs of ram @ 1000 mhz to work correctly. Only thing is it requires 1.748v on the NB. My specs are E6400 @ 2.88 @ 1.35v, 2x2gb of G.skill DDR2-8000 (1000mhz) ram, two 7600GT graphics cards and a couple of 500gb harddrives. I used to run 3.0ghz but with 4gb of ram the mobo doesnt like that unless you jack up the vcore to 1.4375v and set the ram to 800mhz. So anyway I ran 2.88ghz @ 1.35v, 4gb of ram @ 1000mhz @ 2.08v and set the NB at 1.748v. After 45mins my temps were 45c on the cpu and 38 on the NB. I took the side of the case off and touched the NB, it was hot but i could leave my fingers on it so it wasnt overheating. Basically i just want to know if 1.748 volts is safe and i am not going to need a new mobo in three months.

edit: i dont think i am going to runn 1.748v on the NB i am just going to buy the formula maximus i a week or two and give this board to my mom...lol.


I really advise to not run it at 1.7v.. There are no sensors on the NB and when the computer is under load the temperature is way too high for confort. It puts too much stress on the NB and lifespan will be a lot shorter.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


Hello all,

Here's my situation.....

Been running unlinked to see where I can get my FSB up to. I hit 1775, with my memory at 810. (I initially was running my FSB at 1620 with 1.3vcore, but once I upped FSB to the 1775 I had to up vcore to 1.5250 in order to get any stability.....might even have to go higher.) Once I had 1775 @ 1.5250v running, I ran Orthos fine for an hour. My core temps peaked around 65C which is kind of scary since I'm watercooled. I was able to get through 3dMark06 just fine. (15727 btw) However when I ran 3dMark05 everything locked up immediately...had to reboot. This has happened twice. I have a somewhat stable 3.55Mhz @ 1.525vcore, however whenever my vid cards come into play I get a lockup. Shall I up the vcore another notch? My NB is still set to auto....how do I know when I should be touching that? Should I not try going any further since my temps are getting high already? Am I finding the limits of my PSU and not realizing it?

Like I mentioned before, I can run 3.2Mhz @ 1.3v all day long while gaming like crazy and everything is 100% stable. (temps stable at 55C during Orthos with these settings)

Thanks in advance.


Put your NB to 1.5v and see if it's stable; having it on auto is bad since it could possibly put it at 1.7v.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Some Noob*


Hi peoples can any one please let me know the ram settings for ddr2 800 and voltage settings for 3.0 for my rig. At the moment i cant get more than 2.6 stable with i have the 0803 bios.

Thanks in advance


Look up the RAM that you have on the manufacturers website. It will give you the voltages and timings from it but most likely it'll be 2.1v.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *P1MP1NJ*


im running 803 with a q6600 at 3.0ghz 1.367v vcore 1.39nb and beleive it or not i am running 4 sticks of 1gb crucial ballistix at 800mhz!










I'm surprised you could get your Q6600 to 3.0 GHz.. I tried for 15 hours and no go. 650i chipsets hate Quads. Good job!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Can someone give a little twist/shake to their northbridge heatsink and tell me if it's on tight? The right side (towards the RAM) seems fairly loose. Didn't notice it before but makes me kind of worried since there's no sensor for the temperature. I took off the heatsink before to apply AS5 instead of that junk that it came with (was as hard as rock xD) but I didn't remember it being loose. Thanks guys.










Make sure the push pins are all the way through. I can't take a shake it tho because I replaced mine.

If it's loose and has AS5 on it I would be worried because AS5 is conductive. Wouldn't want that to get on another part of the nb die and short the mobo. For more peace of mind I used Tuniq TX-2 which is the same if not better than AS5 and nonconductive.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Make sure the push pins are all the way through. I can't take a shake it tho because I replaced mine.

If it's loose and has AS5 on it I would be worried because AS5 is conductive. Wouldn't want that to get on another part of the nb die and short the mobo. For more peace of mind I used Tuniq TX-2 which is the same if not better than AS5 and nonconductive.


Ah.. I should give it a check. Yes I pushed the pins down all the way. First thing I did. Or only thing I could do without taking the mobo out.

The HR-05 fits on the NB? I heard it didn't work.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Ah.. I should give it a check. Yes I pushed the pins down all the way. First thing I did. Or only thing I could do without taking the mobo out.

The HR-05 fits on the NB? I heard it didn't work.


HR-05 fits fine for me.










Plenty of room to spare.


----------



## Blizzie

Ah thanks. I'll think about getting it now. $15. Installation easy and it works better than stock with 40mm fan right?








+rep









http://www.petrastechshop.com/thhrhrichco.html
Know if the IFX one is better?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Ah thanks. I'll think about getting it now. $15. Installation easy and it works better than stock with 400mm fan right?








+rep










If you thought removing the stock one and replacing the tim was easy this should be a piece of cake. Just remember to put both push pins in at the same time...trust me on that.

It comes with some nonconductive TIM too so no need to buy anything else. I just got the TX-2 because I wanted to try it on my CPU too.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


If you thought removing the stock one and replacing the tim was easy this should be a piece of cake. Just remember to put both push pins in at the same time...trust me on that.

It comes with some nonconductive TIM too so no need to buy anything else. I just got the TX-2 because I wanted to try it on my CPU too.


I wanted to use AS5 cause the compound it comes with seems horrible.
Only other compound I have besides AS5 is Antec Formula 5, which has the exact same ingredients it seems.


----------



## Gauvenator

Oh, I never used it. AS5 is a good choice.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Oh, I never used it. AS5 is a good choice.










Last post before we start spamming this place up.








AS5 on the NB chipset only and then place the HR-05 on right? Cause like you said, it's conductive.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Last post before we start spamming this place up.








AS5 on the NB chipset only and then place the HR-05 on right? Cause like you said, it's conductive.

That would work well, just don't jiggle it around too much







The mounting mechanism is good, but the cooler can move a little, so just be careful not to bump it. Good luck.


----------



## underdog1425

Hey guys I just began trying to OC my system today and have been pouring over this thread for help. Here is my testing..



This is without any NB or SB cooling, its all stock MB, and those temps are not under load.

Thoughts anyone?

-edit-
Also, my 1.2VHT temp keeps fluctuating +or- nearly 2v.....is that normal?


----------



## Blizzie

Looks good. Get CoreTemp to monitor temperatures. Keep it under 60.1 C.

If you want to keep it at 3.0 GHz then run Orthos for at least 8-12 hours.

And what version of ASUS Probe do you have? Mine doesn't have NB/SB voltage. o.o
Edit: You have a P5N32-E SLI mobo, not an ASUS P5N-E SLI. Wrong thread?


----------



## underdog1425

As far as I know the probe hasn't been upgraded from when I bought it. Im going to download 1.04.19 and see if it has SBv. Orthos has only been running for an hour or so now, I plan to leave it all night. I will eventually upgrade cooling for NB and SB but like i metioned...this is totally a _I just began this tonight_ deal.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *underdog1425* 
As far as I know the probe hasn't been upgraded from when I bought it. Im going to download 1.04.19 and see if it has SBv. Orthos has only been running for an hour or so now, I plan to leave it all night. I will eventually upgrade cooling for NB and SB but like i metioned...this is totally a _I just began this tonight_ deal.

By the way there's a thread for your motherboard here:
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ing-guide.html


----------



## underdog1425

But I don't think mine is 680i =x


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *underdog1425* 
But I don't think mine is 680i =x

What does the motherboard tab in CPU-Z say?


----------



## underdog1425

650isli spp


----------



## BecraCh

Hi all...Recently have gotten really into the PC thing. Decided to try and build my own rig and it worked out great (Wanted something that would play Crysis at decent settings and 30 FPS). Now I want to take a shot at overclocking and have been trying to read everything I can; specifically for my motherboard/CPU combo. I tried the NVidia nTune software, knowing that it was pry a waste of time, but wanted to see if it would bump anything up...which it did (2.55 GHZ). But when I load that profile and it will bump up to the "tuned" setting and revert right back to stock. I really didn't want to mess with the bios settings..I have 0703 revision. So...1. Do I update to the 0803 revision? 2. I only want to push the CPU to 2.7-2.9 GHZ (Is there a utility out there that I can use?) 3. Several options within the bios (realated to overclocking) seemed to be locked, is that because of the nTune or the bios version? Where do I go from here?

Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## scottk

So I was in the process of backing down my voltage on a 3.0 overclock and I at one point went back to "Auto" on vcore. I quickly realized that it automaticly bumps up voltage if you OC the FSB, I saw like 1.47 volts so I went back in and set 1.3500 manually and the system appears stable after a couple days and a couple 2-3 hours orthos runs.

My question is on the NB volts - does anyone know if Auto behaves the same way? There isn't much choice in NB voltage granularity, so I left it on auto but now I'm left wondering if it's going to cook the NB with like 1.7 volts or something? MB temp after a couple hours of orthos never went over 38, but since no one seems to know where the MB temp sensor really is I don't know if that is good or not.

What is the consensus on NB voltage? I had I think 1.39 NB set before, but was unstable (blue screen during an orthos after being left on all day) at 3.0Ghz and 1.375ish Vcore. Now with stock 1.35Vcore and auto NB I seem "fully" stable. Does anyone know what the max rated voltage for the 650i is, or if the Auto setting is safe to use? 'Spose I could just set NB at 1.563, but then again I don't really know if that is more or less than what I'm getting on auto.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


So I was in the process of backing down my voltage on a 3.0 overclock and I at one point went back to "Auto" on vcore. I quickly realized that it automaticly bumps up voltage if you OC the FSB, I saw like 1.47 volts so I went back in and set 1.3500 manually and the system appears stable after a couple days and a couple 2-3 hours orthos runs.

My question is on the NB volts - does anyone know if Auto behaves the same way? There isn't much choice in NB voltage granularity, so I left it on auto but now I'm left wondering if it's going to cook the NB with like 1.7 volts or something? MB temp after a couple hours of orthos never went over 38, but since no one seems to know where the MB temp sensor really is I don't know if that is good or not.

What is the consensus on NB voltage? I had I think 1.39 NB set before, but was unstable (blue screen during an orthos after being left on all day) at 3.0Ghz and 1.375ish Vcore. Now with stock 1.35Vcore and auto NB I seem "fully" stable. Does anyone know what the max rated voltage for the 650i is, or if the Auto setting is safe to use? 'Spose I could just set NB at 1.563, but then again I don't really know if that is more or less than what I'm getting on auto.


1.56 should be safe, but you should remove it and apply AS5, or at least stick a fan ( 2 40mm's fit nice BTW) on it. One way you could check is to watch your MB temp using ASUS probe with it set on 1.393, then turn it to 1.56 and see what each ones temp is at idle. Then turn it to auto and check the temp again.

I think stock is the 1.393. Pook recommended in a earlier post (like page 108) to not run it all the time at 1.74


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AMDCAMARO* 
1.56 should be safe, but you should remove it and apply AS5, or at least stick a fan ( 2 40mm's fit nice BTW) on it. One way you could check is to watch your MB temp using ASUS probe with it set on 1.393, then turn it to 1.56 and see what each ones temp is at idle. Then turn it to auto and check the temp again.

I think stock is the 1.393. Pook recommended in a earlier post (like page 108) to not run it all the time at 1.74

Just to let you know, Motherboard temperature does not mean Northbridge. The motherboard temp in a different sensor; I _think_ it's located in between the PCI slots.

This is one of the cons of the motherboard; not being able ot know your NB temps.. Can't tell if it's overheating or what.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Just to let you know, Motherboard temperature does not mean Northbridge. The motherboard temp in a different sensor; I _think_ it's located in between the PCI slots.

This is one of the cons of the motherboard; not being able ot know your NB temps.. Can't tell if it's overheating or what.

I can assure you that the "Motherboard" sensor is not between the PCI slots. Not only can a sensor not be physically observed there, there is no way that its 40-50C betwewn the slots- just touch it with your finger there, its not hot.

The most likely scenario is the "Motherboard" temp is an average of the NB and SB temps. From my observations with an IR gun this is the most likely hypothesis. Surface temp of my bare SB is 34-38C and the IHS on my NB 44-48C. "Motherboard" sensor reports a rock solid 42C.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
I can assure you that the "Motherboard" sensor is not between the PCI slots. Not only can a sensor not be physically observed there, there is no way that its 40-50C betwewn the slots- just touch it with your finger there, its not hot.

The most likely scenario is the "Motherboard" temp is an average of the NB and SB temps. From my observations with an IR gun this is the most likely hypothesis. Surface temp of my bare SB is 34-38C and the IHS on my NB 44-48C. "Motherboard" sensor reports a rock solid 42C.

I was reading around the ASUS forums and several people mentioned that it is not the NB/SB temps. I'm not saying that you're wrong but it's just from what I've read.

Everest Ultimate and ASUS Probe reports my "Motherboard" temperature at 32C. It normally idles at 31C and never gets above 33C, even after playing COD4.. What's up with that? Since I know some people here have idles of around 38-40C.

Stock heatsink on NB with AS5; 40 mm fan. Southbridge has a Zalman heatsink, also AS5. What do you have on yours Ravin and everyone else. Trying to gather some data.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I was reading around the ASUS forums and several people mentioned that it is not the NB/SB temps. I'm not saying that you're wrong but it's just from what I've read.

Everest Ultimate and ASUS Probe reports my "Motherboard" temperature at 32C. It normally idles at 31C and never gets above 33C, even after playing COD4.. What's up with that? Since I know some people here have idles of around 38-40C.

Stock heatsink on NB with AS5; 40 mm fan. Southbridge has a Zalman heatsink, also AS5. What do you have on yours Ravin and everyone else. Trying to gather some data.










Stock heat sink w/AS5 reseat. I have a massive case with killer air flow. The MB loads 42C...my rig does not know what idle is lol. Before the AS5 it ran 58-60C load, down to 48C after AS5, then down to 42C when I installed the Zalman9700 on my CPU. My SB is naked.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Stock heat sink w/AS5 reseat. I have a massive case with killer air flow. The MB loads 42C...my rig does not know what idle is lol. Before the AS5 it ran 58-60C load, down to 48C after AS5, then down to 42C when I installed the Zalman9700 on my CPU. My SB is naked.


Could it be that the SB is raising your "Motherboard" temps if it is average then?

Before and after I threw the 40 mm fan on my NB, I saw no change on "MB" temps. Bad sensor?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Could it be that the SB is raising your "Motherboard" temps if it is average then?

Before and after I threw the 40 mm fan on my NB, I saw no change on "MB" temps. Bad sensor?

















Mmmm possible. Someone noted their MB temp dropped after they added a HS to the SB. I think my SB keeps my MB temp artificially low if it is part of an average- my SB is about body temp to the touch, and confirmed with IR surface temp, while the NB is pretty hot.

I think the only other possibility is the MB sensor is strictly just the NB temp. This is actually the most logical model- it does not make sense to have 2 sensors that average, and don't forget this is a budget board- sensors cost money.

Could be a bad sensor, but doubtful. The 650i chipset can take quite a bit of temperature abuse-about 70C if i remember correctly. Definitely at least 60C. At any rate, if you were already in the 30-35C under load i'd say thats about as low as you can expect, even with fans going on the HS.

Also....idle MB temp for me is 36C


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Mmmm possible. Someone noted their MB temp dropped after they added a HS to the SB. I think my SB keeps my MB temp artificially low if it is part of an average- my SB is about body temp to the touch, and confirmed with IR surface temp, while the NB is pretty hot.

I think the only other possibility is the MB sensor is strictly just the NB temp. This is actually the most logical model- it does not make sense to have 2 sensors that average, and don't forget this is a budget board- sensors cost money.

Could be a bad sensor, but doubtful. The 650i chipset can take quite a bit of temperature abuse-about 70C if i remember correctly. Definitely at least 60C. At any rate, if you were already in the 30-35C under load i'd say thats about as low as you can expect, even with fans going on the HS.

Also....idle MB temp for me is 36C


I kind of want to see my NB temps go up after gaming like others say.









*takes NB heatsink off while compy is on* I'm kidding..


----------



## Gauvenator

My temps dropped significantly when a fan was blowing over my sb heatsink. I used to load at 50, and that was before I had an HR-05.

But the fan could also be blowing over the sensor on the motherboard...I'm not sure. The fan is not directly on the sb.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


My temps dropped significantly when a fan was blowing over my sb heatsink. I used to load at 50, and that was before I had an HR-05.

But the fan could also be blowing over the sensor on the motherboard...I'm not sure. The fan is not directly on the sb.


Also don't forget- that fan affects the entire flow of air in your case. Chances are it also increases air movement (at least a little) around the NB HS.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Also don't forget- that fan affects the entire flow of air in your case. Chances are it also increases air movement (at least a little) around the NB HS.


I should have mentioned that this fan is attached to the cooler on my graphics card. It just happens to blow on the sb.

I'll post here when I attach a 70mm fan to my HR-05.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I should have mentioned that this fan is attached to the cooler on my graphics card. It just happens to blow on the sb.

I'll post here when I attach a 70mm fan to my HR-05.


I'll be awaiting those results.


----------



## marsey99

in a 21c room i idle like









thats with a 60mm fan on my nb hs.

edit

with cpu @ 3.2ghz


----------



## underdog1425

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Stock heat sink w/AS5 reseat. I have a massive case with killer air flow. The MB loads 42C...my rig does not know what idle is lol. Before the AS5 it ran 58-60C load, down to 48C after AS5, then down to 42C when I installed the Zalman9700 on my CPU. My SB is naked.

I want to apply some arctic silver to the stock heat sinks but im not sure how to remove it. I looked around and couldn't really find any guide or anything =(


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
I really advise to not run it at 1.7v.. There are no sensors on the NB and when the computer is under load the temperature is way too high for confort. It puts too much stress on the NB and lifespan will be a lot shorter.

Put your NB to 1.5v and see if it's stable; having it on auto is bad since it could possibly put it at 1.7v.

Look up the RAM that you have on the manufacturers website. It will give you the voltages and timings from it but most likely it'll be 2.1v.

I'm surprised you could get your Q6600 to 3.0 GHz.. I tried for 15 hours and no go. 650i chipsets hate Quads. Good job!









thanks man! it was my first overclock as well!


----------



## underdog1425

Nvm answered my own question.


----------



## Some Noob

Hi Guys im new to over clocking but have some understanding. I want to hit 3.0 at least, i just bought a 100 dollar air cooler and cant get past 2.6. Can someone with a quad please tell me the vcore and nb settings. I know the fsb is 13333 unlink and do i set the ram timings to 5 5 5 16 21 for my ram this is one of the settings in cpuz or go for the 4 4 4 11 14 im a bit lost but after hours of research am starting to understand a bit. Any help will be much appreciated.
Its a q6600 im talking about.

Thanks in advance, Jason


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Some Noob*


Hi Guys im new to over clocking but have some understanding. I want to hit 3.0 at least, i just bought a 100 dollar air cooler and cant get past 2.6. Can someone with a quad please tell me the vcore and nb settings. I know the fsb is 13333 unlink and do i set the ram timings to 5 5 5 16 21 for my ram this is one of the settings in cpuz or go for the 4 4 4 11 14 im a bit lost but after hours of research am starting to understand a bit. Any help will be much appreciated.
Its a q6600 im talking about.

Thanks in advance, Jason


First of all, understand that Q6600s don't overclock well on this board (650i chipset). 3.0 GHz is probably the highest you'll hit, if you reach it in the first place.

You need to go to your manufacturer's website for your RAM and look up the timings and the voltage. Manually set those in BIOS.

For your Q6600. Try a FSB of 1333 and a voltage of 1.35 - 1.40v. 
Keep your NB at 1.3v and no higher than 1.5v.

Try messing with those combinations and see if you can hit 3.0 GHz. Report back.


----------



## Some Noob

Hi thanks for the reply when you say voltage of 1.35 do you mean the vcore ?


----------



## Some Noob

Um gave it go yet another cmos reset oh well. I have added 100 to the fsb with no adjustment to the voltage and im stable at 2.6 do you think it is wise. Or maby should i just settle for the 2.4. I want 3.0.

Cmon guys someone out there with this board and cpu must have the secret ingredients.


----------



## marsey99

the secret ingredient for this mobo is cooling, better heatsinks and great airflow. the nb works alot better with better cooling and the whole board does beter if well chilled.

im still looking for a good heatsink for the power regs tho.

Noob
set your nb to 1.56v your cpu around 1.35v increase the pcie to 110mhz and then trie 1333 fsb. make sure your ram is set right and in the black slots and that all other options are off in your bios.

edit

use non conductive paste on exposed chips.


----------



## quakermaas

Hi

I just upgraded my bios yesterday from 0608 to 0803 and I have a E6550 cpu.

With the 0608 bios i could get past 1900 (475 x 4) fsb and still be stable, now with the 0803 bios I can't get past 1800 (450 x 4) fsb stable and even 1800fsb is starting to show signs of being unstable, I just had a BSOD, but I hadnt my memory timing set right and havn't had time to do full tests yet.

I tried to downgrade to the 0608 bios and it will not let me, i have now tried the 0703 and 0701 as well.
It seems like if you upgrade to the 0803 bios there will be no going back to an earlier bios.

I am a bit disappointed with this situation .
Has any body been able to downgrade from 0803 bios ?
Thanks.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Some Noob*


Um gave it go yet another cmos reset oh well. I have added 100 to the fsb with no adjustment to the voltage and im stable at 2.6 do you think it is wise. Or maby should i just settle for the 2.4. I want 3.0.

Cmon guys someone out there with this board and cpu must have the secret ingredients.


If I were you, I'd return this board and get one with a P35 chipset. You can easily get 3.0 GHz and you can go up to even 3.6 GHz.

For your Q6600 on this board, it's all luck and chance.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Hi

I just upgraded my bios yesterday from 0608 to 0803 and I have a E6550 cpu.

With the 0608 bios i could get past 1900 (475 x 4) fsb and still be stable, now with the 0803 bios I can't get past 1800 (450 x 4) fsb stable and even 1800fsb is starting to show signs of being unstable, I just had a BSOD, but I hadnt my memory timing set right and havn't had time to do full tests yet.

I tried to downgrade to the 0608 bios and it will not let me, i have now tried the 0703 and 0701 as well.
It seems like if you upgrade to the 0803 bios there will be no going back to an earlier bios.

I am a bit disappointed with this situation .
Has any body been able to downgrade from 0803 bios ?
Thanks.


I read somewhere it wasn't reversible but I'm not sure. 0608 seems to be the best BIOS out there at the moment.


----------



## jbobb

I just installed an AC Freezer Pro 7 on my CPU and it is great. At stock speed right now, running Orthos was around 12C cooler. I will work on OC'ing it a little later this week.

One question I have is.....is there anywhere in the BIOS that can control the fan speed based on the CPU temp? The fan on the Freezer is running full speed constantly. I know this cooler has the PWM feature if the board and BIOS support it. I am able to turn the fan speed down in the Speedfan program, but that would keep in down instead of adjusting it based on temps.

Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbobb*


I just installed an AC Freezer Pro 7 on my CPU and it is great. At stock speed right now, running Orthos was around 12C cooler. I will work on OC'ing it a little later this week.

One question I have is.....is there anywhere in the BIOS that can control the fan speed based on the CPU temp? The fan on the Freezer is running full speed constantly. I know this cooler has the PWM feature if the board and BIOS support it. I am able to turn the fan speed down in the Speedfan program, but that would keep in down instead of adjusting it based on temps.

Any input would be appreciated.


In the bios , look under monitor hardware or temps( not sure which, but it is there some where lol)..there is options to enable fan control for the cpu fan and mother board.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I read somewhere it wasn't reversible but I'm not sure. 0608 seems to be the best BIOS out there at the moment.


Thanks for that and yes 0608 did seem the best so far, now i am stuck with the 0803









By upgrading my bios, i ended up with poorer performance.. Asus


----------



## P1MP1NJ

i had 202 for a very long time and I upgraded to 0608 and it was nice but I couldnt do anything with my Q6600 except bsods @ 2.8ghz but with 803 its much better for me I must be lucky I suppose if I get some time tonight ill see if I can hit 3.2ghz and for the NB get a cooler and I run at 1.39v with 4x1gb of ram and I wont even post at 1.56. If I have time later I will write my bios settings down for ya


----------



## jbobb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


In the bios , look under monitor hardware or temps( not sure which, but it is there some where lol)..there is options to enable fan control for the cpu fan and mother board.


Is it the CPU Q-Fan Control option? I must have missed that when I was looking through the options. Will this adjust the fan speed automatically or can you set a certain temp for the CPU?


----------



## quakermaas

Auto...well when i enable mine I can hardly hear my fans
I know what you mean by seting percentage and temps, but no not with this board its either enable or disable lol


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbobb* 
Is it the CPU Q-Fan Control option? I must have missed that when I was looking through the options. Will this adjust the fan speed automatically or can you set a certain temp for the CPU?

Q-Fan will work, but keep in mind it probably bases speeds on the mobo's sensor, not the cpu's on die one, and the mobo's sensor does not necessarily reflect accurate temps.


----------



## wkdmike

Hi guys, got e6300 on asus P5N-E with 4gb of ddr 2x 1 gig 800mhz 2x1gig 677mhz? i've been told when i bout my cpu i could overclock it too 3.89 ghz but i can only get 2.24 using the ai overclock on the motherboard i have an ac freezer pro 7 cooler which i was told would be adequate for the overclock,i've never overclocked before and wondering if u can put it nice and simple for me thanks mikes


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wkdmike* 
Hi guys, got e6300 on asus P5N-E with 4gb of ddr 2x 1 gig 800mhz 2x1gig 677mhz? i've been told when i bout my cpu i could overclock it too 3.89 ghz but i can only get 2.24 using the ai overclock on the motherboard i have an ac freezer pro 7 cooler which i was told would be adequate for the overclock,i've never overclocked before and wondering if u can put it nice and simple for me thanks mikes

You should manually overclock if you're going to go that high. Instead of AI set it to manual in unlinked mode, and then you can tweak the fsb of the processor and it's voltage.
How much of an overclock you will get will depend on how much voltage you can handle with that cooler. To go higher you will most likely need more voltage, unless you have an awesome chip









The E6300 is an awesome chip...my E6320 got 2.8 without breaking a sweat. I've gotten pretty stable at 3.15 but I had to pump 1.425 volts...I'm definitely going to go back to 3ghz+ once I finish with my upgrades.

*edit: If you're going to be pushing 3.8ghz you'll probably want better northbridge cooling so you can put enough voltage in the northbridge safely in order to be stable at higher fsb speeds.


----------



## aleiro

use asus update in windows and check the option to downgrade under options. Make sure you dont have any tasks running a heavy CPU load or you will brick the board. I usually boot the comp into xp and wait 15 mins and close Norton AV. Then flash... i did it six times in two days to find the best bios and in conclusion 0803 is the strongest. i have a heavy OC and with 0608 when it was unstable the comp reset and my entire bios went back to defaults... however i have never had that problem with 0803 and the same OC is obtainable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Thanks for that and yes 0608 did seem the best so far, now i am stuck with the 0803









By upgrading my bios, i ended up with poorer performance.. Asus


----------



## wkdmike

ok so where do i start what would i alter in order to get upto 2.8ghz for example i have absolutely no idea whenever i mess about it just get bleeps which i'm guessing is wrong lol


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


use asus update in windows and check the option to downgrade under options. Make sure you dont have any tasks running a heavy CPU load or you will brick the board. I usually boot the comp into xp and wait 15 mins and close Norton AV. Then flash... i did it six times in two days to find the best bios and in conclusion 0803 is the strongest. i have a heavy OC and with 0608 when it was unstable the comp reset and my entire bios went back to defaults... however i have never had that problem with 0803 and the same OC is obtainable.


OK never tried or thought of that, I was flashing from the bios.
0608 seems best for me with the E6550 cpu, i have got the fsb to 1980 with 0608, but unstable.With the 0803 I am having problems after 1800.

Can you fill in you system specs on your profile, so i can see what cpu you are using.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
use asus update in windows and check the option to downgrade under options. Make sure you dont have any tasks running a heavy CPU load or you will brick the board. I usually boot the comp into xp and wait 15 mins and close Norton AV. Then flash... i did it six times in two days to find the best bios and in conclusion 0803 is the strongest. i have a heavy OC and with 0608 when it was unstable the comp reset and my entire bios went back to defaults... however i have never had that problem with 0803 and the same OC is obtainable.

Please say you arent going to flash your bios in windows? Be prepared to RMA your board if you do.


----------



## raven117

ez flash ftw!


----------



## underdog1425

Im worried about my board, I applied AS5 to the Nb and SB after scraping the (dried to crispy goodness by now) stock compound off the sink. In the process I got a tiny bit on the green chip area around the core, and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol. Would either of those actions kill the board? Im having boot issues, no beeping or anything ...


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


I want to apply some arctic silver to the stock heat sinks but im not sure how to remove it. I looked around and couldn't really find any guide or anything =(


Pretty simple actually. Use pliers to clasp the pins together on the back side of the board and push them through to the front. Careful, the HS and MB may fall apart once the pins are out, so make sure to have it resting on a solid stable surface. If they are stuck together *GENTLY* pry them apart, starting from one side or the other.

Once they're apart clean the gunk off both the chip and the HS- you can buy TIM removal/cleaner kits that work well. One bottle you let it sit on the old paste a few minutes and wipe it off- wash rinse repeat. The second bottle cleans off the residue of the first cleaner. wash rinse repeat. _Oh yeah....toss that foam thingy.....don't need it._

You may want to lap your block. Mine had deep gouges in it, I opted to fill in the cracks with AS5 and call it good. Took quite a bit of compound- way more than I'd use on a CPU, but it's fine. Spread it as thin and even as possible- putty knife or rubber spatula works good.

Line the pins up and push them through nice and tight....good to go.

Total time to tear down rig and rebuild....1 hour.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


Im worried about my board, I applied AS5 to the Nb and SB after scraping the (dried to crispy goodness by now) stock compound off the sink. In the process I got a tiny bit on the green chip area around the core, and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol. Would either of those actions kill the board? Im having boot issues, no beeping or anything ...


Nope good to go. So long as you cleaned all the TIM off any unwanted surface you're good. Isopropyl is the bomb for cleaning electronics.


----------



## underdog1425

I appreciate your help! That should mean I just mis-wired something along the way..Ill remove everything and try again =D

-edit-

I verified all connections and there are still boot problems.. there is no beep on startup  and no display.. could it be possible that maybe some AS5 got squeezed out of the heatsink onto the board? I don't really think thats a likely scenario because this is my 4th or 5th system on which iv'e applied compound.. but it is worth mentioning, I don't really know what else could be the issue.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


I appreciate your help! That should mean I just mis-wired something along the way..Ill remove everything and try again =D

-edit-

I verified all connections and there are still boot problems.. there is no beep on startup  and no display.. could it be possible that maybe some AS5 got squeezed out of the heatsink onto the board? I don't really think thats a likely scenario because this is my 4th or 5th system on which iv'e applied compound.. but it is worth mentioning, I don't really know what else could be the issue.


Do your fans turn on? Maybe your motherboard isn't grounded in your case. Take it out and run it out the case.

That stock compound thing on the NB.. I had to literally scrape off. It was pretty bad.


----------



## underdog1425

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Do your fans turn on? Maybe your motherboard isn't grounded in your case. Take it out and run it out the case.

That stock compound thing on the NB.. I had to literally scrape off. It was pretty bad.

No kidding it was like solid plastic =O. The fans run, and the IDE is working because I can hear my weirdo DVD drive doing that initial position origin thing. Its motors are kinda loud.

I can try with it out of the case, but what would cause it to lose the ground?
Very possibly related, that tinny cover for the on-board ports gives me hell every time I put the board back into the case.. could that be preventing a ground?


----------



## nathris

Bah, I'm really starting to hate this board! I hit an FSB wall from 291-332 and no matter what I do I can't get Windows to boot over 333 FSB!

I'm trying to hit 3GHz, and because of the hole I can't hit 300x10, and no matter what settings I use I can't get windows to boot at 333x9, I've pushed it up to 1.36 vcore, which with my stock cooler gives me around 40 idle and over 60 load, which is bad. I have my NB voltage at 1.56V, and I don't dare to raise it further, memory is unlinked because of the stupid way the BIOS sets linked (1:1 is actually 2:1, linked to the QDR instead). Is there anything else I can do, or should I just sell it and get a P35?

2.8GHz is the highest I've been able to run(280x10), I'm currently testing with a 1.34V vcore and getting 60'C orthos load but I know I can reduce the voltage.

I knew I should have spent the extra on the e2200...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


Bah, I'm really starting to hate this board! I hit an FSB wall from 291-332 and no matter what I do I can't get Windows to boot over 333 FSB!

I'm trying to hit 3GHz, and because of the hole I can't hit 300x10, and no matter what settings I use I can't get windows to boot at 333x9, I've pushed it up to 1.36 vcore, which with my stock cooler gives me around 40 idle and over 60 load, which is bad. I have my NB voltage at 1.56V, and I don't dare to raise it further, memory is unlinked because of the stupid way the BIOS sets linked (1:1 is actually 2:1, linked to the QDR instead). Is there anything else I can do, or should I just sell it and get a P35?

2.8GHz is the highest I've been able to run(280x10), I'm currently testing with a 1.34V vcore and getting 60'C orthos load but I know I can reduce the voltage.

I knew I should have spent the extra on the e2200...


You can get a better heatsink fan and then push for 3.2 GHz+ since your Vcore is only 1.34v. You can go up to 1.48v to be safe.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


use asus update in windows and check the option to downgrade under options. Make sure you dont have any tasks running a heavy CPU load or you will brick the board. I usually boot the comp into xp and wait 15 mins and close Norton AV. Then flash... i did it six times in two days to find the best bios and in conclusion 0803 is the strongest. i have a heavy OC and with 0608 when it was unstable the comp reset and my entire bios went back to defaults... however i have never had that problem with 0803 and the same OC is obtainable.


+rep for you. 
I am now back to the 0608 bios from the 0803 and running again at a very stable 1900(475 x 4) fsb.
Thank you sir


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


You can get a better heatsink fan and then push for 3.2 GHz+ since your Vcore is only 1.34v. You can go up to 1.48v to be safe.


Yea I was thinking about getting an AC7 Pro or even a Tuniq Tower(my case is abnormally wide so it should fit, but I don't know. All I really want is 3GHz stable and with an Abit IP35 Pro or a Gigabyte P35-D3SL I could probably do 300x10 no sweat.

I dropped the NB voltage down to 1.36V and according to CPU-Z I'm running at 1.28 vcore, but I don't really trust it as Core temp has gone as high as 58/58 under Orthos loads.


----------



## SidewaysBox

I'm going to get a Asus P5N-E Sli 650i, I was wondering If I could get a C2D4500 up to 3.2 easy on this board. I'll be buying a Zalman 9500A.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SidewaysBox* 
I'm going to get a Asus P5N-E Sli 650i, I was wondering If I could get a C2D4500 up to 3.2 easy on this board. I'll be buying a Zalman 9500A.

How much is the Zalman 9500? I would get a Tuniq Tower for $45.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154001
The performance is the Tuniq is exceptionally well. It blows the Zalman away.


----------



## SidewaysBox

I have a CM Stacker, but I don't feel like taking out one of the fans on the side. Does this fan perform well?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103040


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


How much is the Zalman 9500? I would get a Tuniq Tower for $45. 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154001
The performance is the Tuniq is exceptionally well. It blows the Zalman away.


For an extra $15 go with the Zalman 9700. Tunique works well, and the Ultra120 is awesome. My Zalman9700 keeps my 3.0GHz quad running under 40C (max ambient~74F)with the fan on low, and I get a full 10C drop with it on high.


----------



## SidewaysBox

Oh, ok. I'll get that Zalman. But no ones answered my question. Can I get the e4500 up to 3.2 or more on this board?


----------



## scottk

Ok, I have it at 3G and it's fully stable "for the most part". I can run with stock Vcore and 1.39 NB, went 3 hours of orthos last night while my daughter was surfing the net. Turned it off for a couple hours started it up and it ran perfectly for another 3-4 hours of 100% on one core plus surfing.

THEN - the wife turns it on this morning and it blue screens in windows. I can test the snot out of it at the end of the day and it's always perfect at 3.0, but first thing in the AM when wifey turns it on it blue screens. *** - ins't heat supposed to be bad not good lol. It starts perfectly every day at 2.9, but seems to fail every morning at 3.0 - once up and running I can go back to 3.0 all day without any trouble. I'm wondering if maybe MS defender or AVG scan is running first thing in the AM causing truble, or if it really is trouble when cold????

Anyone seen behavior like that before, or have any suggestions?

Summary is 1.35 manually set on core, 1.39 NB, unlinked, 1500 (or 1450 when I back it to 2.9) fsb, memory at 800. Timings of 4-4-4-12-2T at 2.1.

Any posibility that I should back off on the timings when running at 3.0? Memory is unlinked at 800 so I don't think it would matter but I'm not sure what else to go after?


----------



## marsey99

scott it sounds like your system dont like the cold????????

sideways
the zalmans are old and there are many better heatsinks out there for the same price.

does my sig give you an idea of how well it can do with 4xxx cpu?

anybody stuck a 8400 in this mobo yet? i want to but cant get hold of one in the uk. if so what bios and how the stability?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


scott it sounds like your system dont like the cold????????


Haha - I'll be the first one with an aftermarket CPU heater to reach an overclock


----------



## marsey99

mine went thru a spell of not booting with known good settings, what i found was it didnt like booting if the settings in the cmos was the same as those i had saved in the bios thingy, once i deleted the saved profile from the bios it worked fine.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


scott it sounds like your system dont like the cold????????
sideways
the zalmans are old and there are many better heatsinks out there for the same price.
does my sig give you an idea of how well it can do with 4xxx cpu?
anybody stuck a 8400 in this mobo yet? i want to but cant get hold of one in the uk. if so what bios and how the stability?


650i boards are not supposed to support 45nm as far as I know, and given the limited voltage (no adjustments for Vtt) options in bios (and history w/Q6600) probably won't be a good choice for 45nm.

I agree, the Zalman is a little pricey. I got mine for $45 from the egg open box, and cashed in $20 worth of egg credits....$25 out of pocket. Lots of folks swear by the Ultra 120, I'm perfectly happy with the Zalman.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


Anyone seen behavior like that before, or have any suggestions?

Summary is 1.35 manually set on core, 1.39 NB, unlinked, 1500 (or 1450 when I back it to 2.9) fsb, memory at 800. Timings of 4-4-4-12-2T at 2.1.

Any posibility that I should back off on the timings when running at 3.0? Memory is unlinked at 800 so I don't think it would matter but I'm not sure what else to go after?


Sounds like classic RAM/NB issues to me. Try turning up your NB to 1.56V, then try 2.25V on your RAM if increasing NB volts does not help (if you're comfortable that your RAM can handle it...Micron D9GMH's can) Last, I'd back off the timings a little....4-4-4-12 should be no sweat for any DDR2/800 rated ram @2.0-2.2V.

I had real problems with 1066MHz RAM and any FSB other than 1066MHz (1:1 was ok, but OC the CPU, and my RAM is only stable @ 1000MHz.) Could be something similar....1333 to 1066 MHz was an awkward divider....maybe 1500 to 800 is the same deal. Can your CPU run @ 1600MHz on a lower divider? Try that too if you can.

Edit:

your Corsairs should be good for 2.25V...but I note that your PSU is 450W. Could be that the PSU is slightly undersized- I had problems with my PSU when I upgraded to the p5NE...465W on my enermax just was not enough.

Edit 2:

If your RAM is in the yellow slots put them in the black ones. My ballistix would only run 800MHz 5-7-7-31 2T @2.25v in the yellow, and run 1000MHz 4-3-3-8 2T @2.25 in the black ones. Stock rating for my RAM is 1000MHz 5-5-5-15 2T @ 2.2V


----------



## Ghostkilla

Great THread!!!


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SidewaysBox* 
Oh, ok. I'll get that Zalman. But no ones answered my question. Can I get the e4500 up to 3.2 or more on this board?

You should be able to reach that no problem; provided the cooling. But it also depends on the CPU performance.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
If your RAM is in the yellow slots put them in the black ones. My ballistix would only run 800MHz 5-7-7-31 2T @2.25v in the yellow, and run 1000MHz 4-3-3-8 2T @2.25 in the black ones. Stock rating for my RAM is 1000MHz 5-5-5-15 2T @ 2.2V

I thoguht that was fixed? I guess not. I have to try the black slots.


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Sounds like classic RAM/NB issues to me. Try turning up your NB to 1.56V, then try 2.25V on your RAM if increasing NB volts does not help (if you're comfortable that your RAM can handle it...Micron D9GMH's can) Last, I'd back off the timings a little....4-4-4-12 should be no sweat for any DDR2/800 rated ram @2.0-2.2V.

I had real problems with 1066MHz RAM and any FSB other than 1066MHz (1:1 was ok, but OC the CPU, and my RAM is only stable @ 1000MHz.) Could be something similar....1333 to 1066 MHz was an awkward divider....maybe 1500 to 800 is the same deal. Can your CPU run @ 1600MHz on a lower divider? Try that too if you can.

Edit:

your Corsairs should be good for 2.25V...but I note that your PSU is 450W. Could be that the PSU is slightly undersized- I had problems with my PSU when I upgraded to the p5NE...465W on my enermax just was not enough.

Edit 2:

If your RAM is in the yellow slots put them in the black ones. My ballistix would only run 800MHz 5-7-7-31 2T @2.25v in the yellow, and run 1000MHz 4-3-3-8 2T @2.25 in the black ones. Stock rating for my RAM is 1000MHz 5-5-5-15 2T @ 2.2V


Thanks! awesome advice - rep+

I did move the RAM yesterday from yellow to black after reading old posts, but it still blue screened this AM. My ram is the XMS2 C4 so it's "guranteed" to run at 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1 but yeah 1500 to 800 is some weird 15:16 or something divider.

I'll try the 1600mhz at 6 or 7 x tonight - kinda sucks as I have to wait till tomorow AM to see if it works. Could take a week just to make it through a handful of changes.

I thought of PSU too but will try all the settings type fixes before spending the money on new PS. There really isn't "that much" of a load on my system. 1 HD, 2 case fans, no extra power required for graphics card but who knows - maybe just week enough to be unstable when cold.


----------



## underdog1425

OK, got an update. I pulled the MB out and stuck it on a cardboard box, wired everything up...still nothing. I have fan power, IDE power, but no visual, and no beep. Thoughts?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *underdog1425*


OK, got an update. I pulled the MB out and stuck it on a cardboard box, wired everything up...still nothing. I have fan power, IDE power, but no visual, and no beep. Thoughts?


You reset the CMOS already I assume? Tried booting with no vid card? Will you still get post beeps if you remove RAM?

I was in the same boat as you the other day - power up and no post, I reseated everything twice, checked the q-connector deal, made sure reset button wasn't stuck. Eventually after giving up it just came back on after sitting 10 minutes or so and hasn't failed again so I assumed something was just loose somewhere and I got it the last time I threw it back together.

- Edit -

Did you try with only one stick RAM, my system behaves VERY erraticly with 2 stick of the XMS2 6400 C4 on default setting. I can't even get into BIOS after a reset without pulling 1 stick - kind of a PITA.


----------



## underdog1425

Yeah man no beeps, pulled out the vid card, nothing, removed ram, same deal. I put Asus on speaker and sat and watched G4 for 20 minutes while on hold, and went over all of the same things we discussed here with a technician, he says either bad MB or Processor...we know its not a bad processor....so im RMAing the MB.. =/ good thing its not my only system..but i will miss my weekend warrior for the month or so its gonna take.


----------



## Gauvenator

This motherboard doesn't have a speaker built in (at least mine doesn't). The only way you'll get beeps is if you plug it into a chassis speaker.


----------



## aleiro

E6400 @ 2.933 @ 1.3725v 24/7(i set it, its stable and i havent looked at it again). Peak 3.2 @ 1.4375v I have a thing about running above 1.4v its just personal opinion. I find it hard to believe 1.5v is 'safe' but to each his own...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *quakermaas* 
OK never tried or thought of that, I was flashing from the bios.
0608 seems best for me with the E6550 cpu, i have got the fsb to 1980 with 0608, but unstable.With the 0803 I am having problems after 1800.

Can you fill in you system specs on your profile, so i can see what cpu you are using.


----------



## aleiro

Windows is perfectly safe and the only way to downgrade without having to go out of my way and renaming files and loading into DOS (no to mention i dont have a floppy). I started at 0404 and loaded every bios up to 0803 one weekend and then went back down. Testing overclocks i noticed the voltage requirements were all the same. The only thing i would suggest is make sure it loads your defaults

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Please say you arent going to flash your bios in windows? Be prepared to RMA your board if you do.


----------



## aleiro

look into the P5N-D its the newer one with PCIe 2.0

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SidewaysBox*


I'm going to get a Asus P5N-E Sli 650i, I was wondering If I could get a C2D4500 up to 3.2 easy on this board. I'll be buying a Zalman 9500A.


----------



## aleiro

I get the same results and agree completely. I have the 9700NT and I have yet to see temps on Orthos @ 3.2 excede 45c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


For an extra $15 go with the Zalman 9700. Tunique works well, and the Ultra120 is awesome. My Zalman9700 keeps my 3.0GHz quad running under 40C (max ambient~74F)with the fan on low, and I get a full 10C drop with it on high.


----------



## aleiro

up your NB to 1.56v That is what i had to do

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


Ok, I have it at 3G and it's fully stable "for the most part". I can run with stock Vcore and 1.39 NB, went 3 hours of orthos last night while my daughter was surfing the net. Turned it off for a couple hours started it up and it ran perfectly for another 3-4 hours of 100% on one core plus surfing.

THEN - the wife turns it on this morning and it blue screens in windows. I can test the snot out of it at the end of the day and it's always perfect at 3.0, but first thing in the AM when wifey turns it on it blue screens. *** - ins't heat supposed to be bad not good lol. It starts perfectly every day at 2.9, but seems to fail every morning at 3.0 - once up and running I can go back to 3.0 all day without any trouble. I'm wondering if maybe MS defender or AVG scan is running first thing in the AM causing truble, or if it really is trouble when cold????

Anyone seen behavior like that before, or have any suggestions?

Summary is 1.35 manually set on core, 1.39 NB, unlinked, 1500 (or 1450 when I back it to 2.9) fsb, memory at 800. Timings of 4-4-4-12-2T at 2.1.

Any posibility that I should back off on the timings when running at 3.0? Memory is unlinked at 800 so I don't think it would matter but I'm not sure what else to go after?


----------



## aleiro

First the P5n-e does support 45nm Dual cores not quads. Second sorry for repeating what you said about the NB @ 1.56v (i hadnt gotten down to this reply). I had the same problem with 1000mhz and a high over clock. The only thing i can figure is there is too much vdroop on the ram. The only reason i came to this conclusion is the new mobos from asus have two phase voltage regulation on the ram. I did get 1000mhz on the ram and 3.0 at 1.4ish but it required 1.748v on the NB, which i am not going to do

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Sounds like classic RAM/NB issues to me. Try turning up your NB to 1.56V, then try 2.25V on your RAM if increasing NB volts does not help (if you're comfortable that your RAM can handle it...Micron D9GMH's can) Last, I'd back off the timings a little....4-4-4-12 should be no sweat for any DDR2/800 rated ram @2.0-2.2V.

I had real problems with 1066MHz RAM and any FSB other than 1066MHz (1:1 was ok, but OC the CPU, and my RAM is only stable @ 1000MHz.) Could be something similar....1333 to 1066 MHz was an awkward divider....maybe 1500 to 800 is the same deal. Can your CPU run @ 1600MHz on a lower divider? Try that too if you can.

Edit:

your Corsairs should be good for 2.25V...but I note that your PSU is 450W. Could be that the PSU is slightly undersized- I had problems with my PSU when I upgraded to the p5NE...465W on my enermax just was not enough.

Edit 2:

If your RAM is in the yellow slots put them in the black ones. My ballistix would only run 800MHz 5-7-7-31 2T @2.25v in the yellow, and run 1000MHz 4-3-3-8 2T @2.25 in the black ones. Stock rating for my RAM is 1000MHz 5-5-5-15 2T @ 2.2V


----------



## Big Ron

Helo everyone,

I have the following qeustion;

i recently received a ' Creative X-Fi Xtreme Gamer ' retail version.
Now my qeustion is if this is compatible with this motherboard under vista 64 bit?
I've searched and searched but i cant seem to find a conclusive answer to my qeustion. Any help consisting of information about this will be most appreciated.
Maybe if someone can find the time a quick step to step guide as the best way to install this new soundcard.

Many thanks,

Big Ron


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


First the P5n-e does support 45nm Dual cores not quads.


Good to know. Still, I think it's a gamble at best. Many of the P35/x38 motherboards with much better voltage regulation actually are pushing the voltage limits of the 45nm. In some cases some minimum voltage settings on the board are at or above the Intel maximum voltage for teh 45nm parts. (not just Vcore, but other voltage settings we don't see on the P5Ne like VTT)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


Second sorry for repeating what you said about the NB @ 1.56v (i hadnt gotten down to this reply). I had the same problem with 1000mhz and a high over clock. The only thing i can figure is there is too much vdroop on the ram. The only reason i came to this conclusion is the new mobos from asus have two phase voltage regulation on the ram. I did get 1000mhz on the ram and 3.0 at 1.4ish but it required 1.748v on the NB, which i am not going to do


 No prob...Personally I think it's the NB MCH strap settings. 650i was not designed with DDR2/1066+ in mind....remember DDR2/800 was hella expensive when the 650i came out.

Oh yea...I feel ya on the Zalman....even on 100+F days my CPU stays under 60C (100F~40C ambient)


----------



## Asce

Ive done the dirty. Ive gone and got myself a P5K, so im saying farwell to my old board.


----------



## chunky_sprm

So I just picked up the P5N-E and want to get some new heatsinks/fans for it so I can start oc'ing. So who has what that fits on the board with no mods necessary, CPU heatsink/fan, NB heatsink/fan, and SB heatsink (fit with an EVGA 8800GT).


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chunky_sprm*


So I just picked up the P5N-E and want to get some new heatsinks/fans for it so I can start oc'ing. So who has what that fits on the board with no mods necessary, CPU heatsink/fan, NB heatsink/fan, and SB heatsink (fit with an EVGA 8800GT).


Look at the first page to see what works on this board and what fits.


----------



## Ghostkilla

I got mine oced to 3.2Ghz with a 1:1 divider and had the vcore up to 1.4v but it seems to lock up every now and then. What voltages are most of you seeing you need to run to achieve a stable 3.2-3.4 oc? Also has anyone ran the beta Bios yet?

Also what chipset drivers are you all running?


----------



## marsey99

x-fi x gamer works fine for me with vista 64bit, just get the right driver from creative (both parts)

the 45nm cpus are less demanding on the power regs than the 65nm one across the board and this is the reason i was looking at one with this mobo lacking in this department.

ram, yellow slots are hit and miss once you get above dd800 and the black slots are the same once you get above dr1000, they will both work but gave me random bsod.

i had more luck staying on a 1:1 divider untill i found the cpu settings i wanted and then tried to get the best out of my ram as this board can boot with daft dividers but some hinder performance quite a bit by being very inefficent. i run 24/7 on 400fsb x 8 with my ram on ddr1000 5-4-4-12-2t - 22.


----------



## Big Ron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
x-fi x gamer works fine for me with vista 64bit, just get the right driver from creative (both parts)


care to colaberate?








i'd be verry happy if u would be able to direct me to the right drivers just to make sure i have the correct 1's. Cause u might never know and i like to listen to music ;p


----------



## BRENX

Hello to everyone, this is mi first msg i read the 591 pages about this mobo, this is my results with this board and PD E2160

Thx for all, Sorry for my really bad english



SAlu2 from URUGUAY


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chunky_sprm* 
So I just picked up the P5N-E and want to get some new heatsinks/fans for it so I can start oc'ing. So who has what that fits on the board with no mods necessary, CPU heatsink/fan, NB heatsink/fan, and SB heatsink (fit with an EVGA 8800GT).

I'm using a Thermalright HR-05 for the Northbridge, and a Cooler Master Blue Ice (without the fan, but that's not really a mod...). As for cpu cooling, I'm using a D-Tek FuZion waterblock.

If you get the CM Blue Ice, use a thermal epoxy instead of the included thermal tape.


----------



## Big Ron

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Big Ron* 
care to colaberate?








i'd be verry happy if u would be able to direct me to the right drivers just to make sure i have the correct 1's. Cause u might never know and i like to listen to music ;p

on a side note both my core's are like in 90+ usage all the time since i installed the card [ e6850 @ 3.0 ghz ]


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I'm using a Thermalright HR-05 for the Northbridge, and a Cooler Master Blue Ice (without the fan, but that's not really a mod...). As for cpu cooling, I'm using a D-Tek FuZion waterblock.

If you get the CM Blue Ice, use a thermal epoxy instead of the included thermal tape.


I got my HR-05 in the mail. Going to try it out.









Did you use the square cushion pad?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I got my HR-05 in the mail. Going to try it out.









Did you use the square cushion pad?


I didn't use the cushion pad. I believe it's for extra small nb's.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I didn't use the cushion pad. I believe it's for extra small nb's.



It says "If your Northbridge DIE is in a smaller size (less than 20x20 mm), an installation of the cushion pad will need to be applied to prevent lack of contact..."

I think the actual die is smaller than 2x2 cm. Haven't opened yet.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
It says "If your Northbridge DIE is in a smaller size (less than 20x20 mm), an installation of the cushion pad will need to be applied to prevent lack of contact..."

I think the actual die is smaller than 2x2 cm. Haven't opened yet.

If it turns out I need it definitely let me know...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
If it turns out I need it definitely let me know...

Will do.









I'm starting to think the Crucial Ballistix Tracers aren't compatible with this board.. My overclock is stable with Corsair RAM but with the Tracer's it fails the stress test. I ram memtest86 with Tracers and it passed 22 rounds no errors. Tried both yellow and black slots.. What am I missing here?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Sounds like classic RAM/NB issues to me. Try turning up your NB to 1.56V, then try 2.25V on your RAM if increasing NB volts does not help (if you're comfortable that your RAM can handle it...Micron D9GMH's can) Last, I'd back off the timings a little....4-4-4-12 should be no sweat for any DDR2/800 rated ram @2.0-2.2V.

I had real problems with 1066MHz RAM and any FSB other than 1066MHz (1:1 was ok, but OC the CPU, and my RAM is only stable @ 1000MHz.) Could be something similar....1333 to 1066 MHz was an awkward divider....maybe 1500 to 800 is the same deal. Can your CPU run @ 1600MHz on a lower divider? Try that too if you can.

Edit:

your Corsairs should be good for 2.25V...but I note that your PSU is 450W. Could be that the PSU is slightly undersized- I had problems with my PSU when I upgraded to the p5NE...465W on my enermax just was not enough.

Edit 2:

If your RAM is in the yellow slots put them in the black ones. My ballistix would only run 800MHz 5-7-7-31 2T @2.25v in the yellow, and run 1000MHz 4-3-3-8 2T @2.25 in the black ones. Stock rating for my RAM is 1000MHz 5-5-5-15 2T @ 2.2V


Thanks again for your advice!!!!

It booted fine this morning at 1600 FSB and 7x cpu multiplier. I upped the ram from 2.08 to 2.17whatever at the same time. So on the logic that a 1:1 mem multiplier is more stable I set the cpu multiplier back to 8 and tweaked Vcore to get an orthos stable 3.2G. So, right now I'm at 3.2 on a 1600FSB for a 1:1 ratio with mem at 800. Vcore of 1.45 I don't recall if NB is still at 1.39 or 1.5 something, memory is 2.17... Been running non stop since this morning, right now idle "net surfing" temps are 33 CPU and 34 MB. IIRC from this AM orthos load CPU temp was 49.

Now the test is to see if I get the first thing in the AM BSD or if the fsb/Vmem changes fixed that.


----------



## Flyin18T

I have a very annoying issue. I can get my e6750 to run Orthos forever at 1730 FSB with 1:1 timing on the RAM. Vcore is set to 1.48 and RAM @ 2.259. Memory is 4.4.4.12.2T. Temps level off around 63C while running Orthos. I'm happy with all that. However, whenever I go to run 3dMark'06 it locks up every darn time. The last couple times it has locked up while running the last test...the DEEP FREEZE. My PSU is rated high enough and the manufacturers website states it is SLI capable. I have adjusted the fan speed on 8800GT's that I am running in SLI mode also and nothing seems to help. Where the heck am I going wrong? Stable overclock, but cards lock up in 3dmark06 every time. Need same fresh perspectives on this. Thanks in advance.


----------



## marsey99

this mobo isnt a big fan of micron chips, try upping your nb to 1.56v

this mobo also doesnt seem to like going much above ddr1000, my ram will pass memtest at 1066 but i get random bsod in windoze at that speed so i leave them at ddr1000 with tighter timings.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


I have a very annoying issue. I can get my e6750 to run Orthos forever at 1730 FSB with 1:1 timing on the RAM. Vcore is set to 1.48 and RAM @ 2.259. Memory is 4.4.4.12.2T. Temps level off around 63C while running Orthos. I'm happy with all that. However, whenever I go to run 3dMark'06 it locks up every darn time. The last couple times it has locked up while running the last test...the DEEP FREEZE. My PSU is rated high enough and the manufacturers website states it is SLI capable. I have adjusted the fan speed on 8800GT's that I am running in SLI mode also and nothing seems to help. Where the heck am I going wrong? Stable overclock, but cards lock up in 3dmark06 every time. Need same fresh perspectives on this. Thanks in advance.


Does it crash in Orthos Blend?


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Does it crash in Orthos Blend?


It used to, but the current settings I mentioned above have seemed to be stable the past couple times I have run it...either CPU or BLEND stress test. Also, every time I touch my NB and raise it I get lcokup during POST. Then I have to pull CMOS and start over. I don't know if I have gone as high as 1.56 on NB, but I'm hoping that this is not the reason my 8800GT's are locking up either. IF someone can explain that there may be a direct link to my vid cards locking up due to NB running on AUTO, then I'll give it another whirl. Thanks again in advance.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


It used to, but the current settings I mentioned above have seemed to be stable the past couple times I have run it...either CPU or BLEND stress test. Also, every time I touch my NB and raise it I get lcokup during POST. Then I have to pull CMOS and start over. I don't know if I have gone as high as 1.56 on NB, but I'm hoping that this is not the reason my 8800GT's are locking up either. IF someone can explain that there may be a direct link to my vid cards locking up due to NB running on AUTO, then I'll give it another whirl. Thanks again in advance.


I used to freeze in crysis and other graphics related programs with my 8800GT also when I had the nb at auto. I had to back down the fsb for stability, but once I put the nb voltage up to 1.56 I was able to go back to my previous OC.


----------



## Blizzie

Gauvenator the pad is needed for the HR-05 so it doesn't move around as much. I tried it with and without.

On another note is your HR-05 REALLY hot? o.o


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Gauvenator the pad is needed for the HR-05 so it doesn't move around as much. I tried it with and without.

On another note is your HR-05 REALLY hot? o.o

Yah it gets pretty hot...but I think that's a good thing. It's keeping the heat away from the nb I guess.

When I take my computer apart later this week I'll add that pad. Is there any risk in not having it? Or is it just to keep it from moving around too much?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Yah it gets pretty hot...but I think that's a good thing. It's keeping the heat away from the nb I guess.

When I take my computer apart later this week I'll add that pad. Is there any risk in not having it? Or is it just to keep it from moving around too much?

Well since it sits pretty loosely on the NB cause the die is so small. It prevents it tilting around as much. I would have it so there will be better contact to the NB, since it's weight bring it down; the pad will help close in the contact for better heat dissipation.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Well since it sits pretty loosely on the NB cause the die is so small. It prevents it tilting around as much. I would have it so there will be better contact to the NB, since it's weight bring it down; the pad will help close in the contact for better heat dissipation.

Thanks!







I'll definitely add it then.

Oh and this week my 70mm fan should arrive, can't wait to see how much it helps.


----------



## Ghostkilla

do you actually need a hsf on NB SB?? Ive never ran one and seem ok.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


do you actually need a hsf on NB SB?? Ive never ran one and seem ok.


I have a heatsink there just in case since I run my computer 24/7 at full CPU load to crunch. You can see in my profile what it is. No SLI with it though.


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I used to freeze in crysis and other graphics related programs with my 8800GT also when I had the nb at auto. I had to back down the fsb for stability, but once I put the nb voltage up to 1.56 I was able to go back to my previous OC.

Went to 1.56 on NB and 3dMark06 froze on last test again. Upped NB to 1.7 and 3dMark06 crashed 2 tests in. I'm at a loss here. Any ideas?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I have a heatsink there just in case since I run my computer 24/7 at full CPU load to crunch. You can see in my profile what it is. No SLI with it though.



I dunno, I just leave mine on auto for NB.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


Went to 1.56 on NB and 3dMark06 froze on last test again. Upped NB to 1.7 and 3dMark06 crashed 2 tests in. I'm at a loss here. Any ideas?


Hm.. Don't do 1.7v on NB. 1.56 is optimal for most people. Have you tested your RAM to see of they were bad with memtest86?


----------



## marsey99

flying, try upping your pcie clock to about 110.

but that could be so many things it doesnt really help, sry. your oc, gpu, some bad driver somwhere that 3d06 doesnt like, psu not pushing enough amps out plus loads of others i cba to type.

try some other grphics tests (open gl fur test is a good one) to see if its gpu driver related, try some other stability tests (id go with orthos) to see if its your ram or cpu and then go from there.

i wouldnt go higher than 1.56v on the nb.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


Thanks again for your advice!!!!

It booted fine this morning at 1600 FSB and 7x cpu multiplier. I upped the ram from 2.08 to 2.17whatever at the same time. So on the logic that a 1:1 mem multiplier is more stable I set the cpu multiplier back to 8 and tweaked Vcore to get an orthos stable 3.2G. So, right now I'm at 3.2 on a 1600FSB for a 1:1 ratio with mem at 800. Vcore of 1.45 I don't recall if NB is still at 1.39 or 1.5 something, memory is 2.17... Been running non stop since this morning, right now idle "net surfing" temps are 33 CPU and 34 MB. IIRC from this AM orthos load CPU temp was 49.

Now the test is to see if I get the first thing in the AM BSD or if the fsb/Vmem changes fixed that.


Excellent....keep us posted!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


this mobo isnt a big fan of micron chips, try upping your nb to 1.56v

this mobo also doesnt seem to like going much above ddr1000, my ram will pass memtest at 1066 but i get random bsod in windoze at that speed so i leave them at ddr1000 with tighter timings.


I have to disagree with your first statement. From my experience the P5Ne-SLI loves the micron D9GMH ICs in my Ballistix (when clocked below 1066MHz). Second statement I'll agree with...I have had problems trying to take my RAM over 1000MHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


do you actually need a hsf on NB SB?? Ive never ran one and seem ok.


Negatory. I have only the stock HS on the NB and nothing on the SB. I also ditched that little foam square that everyone says you need. Everyting seems to run just fine, nice and cool.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


flying, try upping your pcie clock to about 110.

but that could be so many things it doesnt really help, sry. your oc, gpu, some bad driver somwhere that 3d06 doesnt like, psu not pushing enough amps out plus loads of others i cba to type.

try some other grphics tests (open gl fur test is a good one) to see if its gpu driver related, try some other stability tests (id go with orthos) to see if its your ram or cpu and then go from there.

i wouldnt go higher than 1.56v on the nb.


IMO it's his video card. I had some 3dM06 crashes on an otherwise stable OC, when I added heat sinks to my 7600GT's RAM my problems went away.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Excellent....keep us posted!










Booted fine / no morning BSD







Since it looks stable I'll go ahead and get a better fan on the CPU now since Vcore is up a bit and temps are pushing 50-51 under load.


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


flying, try upping your pcie clock to about 110.

but that could be so many things it doesnt really help, sry. your oc, gpu, some bad driver somwhere that 3d06 doesnt like, psu not pushing enough amps out plus loads of others i cba to type.

try some other grphics tests (open gl fur test is a good one) to see if its gpu driver related, try some other stability tests (id go with orthos) to see if its your ram or cpu and then go from there.

i wouldnt go higher than 1.56v on the nb.


Ok, I believe I have solved the 3dMark06 crashing issue. When I upgraded my two 8600GTS's to my new 8800GT's I assumed everything was fine with my PSU...which for all intents and purposes, it is. However the little screw on the back of the PSU needed to be twisted a tiny bit to change the 12V rail from reading 12.0 to 12.1 or 12.2. The PSU was still adjusted the minimum power needs of the 8600's and had not been turned up for the added power of the 8800's. So far problem solved and I have completed every 3dMark06 test since.
Now for my next (and hopefully final) issue. When I run Orthos with 1730 FSB at 1:1 timing my PC freezes about 8 - 12 minutes in. I've tried vcore between 1.45 - 1.49 and everytime it boots fine to desktop, but freezes during Orthos in the same timeframe. I'm using 4.4.4.12.2T timing and 2.259v on the mem. NB is set to AUTO and x8 multiplier. The machine seems to be ruuning like butter when vcore is at 1.45 because my temps are right around 54C during the blend test. But then Windows locks up. I keep resorting to my rock solid, ace-in-the-hole 1620 FSB setting when I need to use the PC or run some games. I'd really like to get this sucker up to 1750 and just as solid. I feel like I can do it but am missing something rather simple. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

p.s. - I have tried my RAM in both yellow and black slots. I actually had a bad stick of Ballistix that I detected initially and got a replacement stick from NewEgg and both run fine and 100% stable at 1620 fsb @ 1:1 timing.

p.s.s. - Running my NB at 1.56v has not made any difference with above mentioned issue. Whether NB is tweaked or not i get same results.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


Ok, I believe I have solved the 3dMark06 crashing issue. When I upgraded my two 8600GTS's to my new 8800GT's I assumed everything was fine with my PSU...which for all intents and purposes, it is. However the little screw on the back of the PSU needed to be twisted a tiny bit to change the 12V rail from reading 12.0 to 12.1 or 12.2. The PSU was still adjusted the minimum power needs of the 8600's and had not been turned up for the added power of the 8800's. So far problem solved and I have completed every 3dMark06 test since.
Now for my next (and hopefully final) issue. When I run Orthos with 1730 FSB at 1:1 timing my PC freezes about 8 - 12 minutes in. I've tried vcore between 1.45 - 1.49 and everytime it boots fine to desktop, but freezes during Orthos in the same timeframe. I'm using 4.4.4.12.2T timing and 2.259v on the mem. NB is set to AUTO and x8 multiplier. The machine seems to be ruuning like butter when vcore is at 1.45 because my temps are right around 54C during the blend test. But then Windows locks up. I keep resorting to my rock solid, ace-in-the-hole 1620 FSB setting when I need to use the PC or run some games. I'd really like to get this sucker up to 1750 and just as solid. I feel like I can do it but am missing something rather simple. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

p.s. - I have tried my RAM in both yellow and black slots. I actually had a bad stick of Ballistix that I detected initially and got a replacement stick from NewEgg and both run fine and 100% stable at 1620 fsb @ 1:1 timing.


Hm. Do you have other RAM to try? I am also having problems getting my system stable again, after getting Ballistix.

Set your NB voltage to 1.5v instead of auto.


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Hm. Do you have other RAM to try? I am also having problems getting my system stable again, after getting Ballistix.

Set your NB voltage to 1.5v instead of auto.


Read my P.S.S. ^^^









Yeah, I don't know how sooo many people are talking about these high overclocks they're getting on their Ballistix sticks because they're really giving me a challenge. That is if they're the problem for me. I purposely chose this RAM because it was stated as supported RAM within the ASUS mobo manual. My sucky Buffalo Select RAM actually does not lock up as much at some of the lower speeds, but then again, I can't push them high because they'll probably melt because they have no heat shields. It prob is my RAM, but just can't believe these really nice yellow Ballistix sticks are not doing the job.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


Read my P.S.S. ^^^









Yeah, I don't know how sooo many people are talking about these high overclocks they're getting on their Ballistix sticks because they're really giving me a challenge. That is if they're the problem for me. I purposely chose this RAM because it was stated as supported RAM within the ASUS mobo manual. My sucky Buffalo Select RAM actually does not lock up as much at some of the lower speeds, but then again, I can't push them high because they'll probably melt because they have no heat shields. It prob is my RAM, but just can't believe these really nice yellow Ballistix sticks are not doing the job.


I have a pair of Corsairs and they can run in my system at 3.6 GHz fine. 1800 Bus speed. When I switch it out for Ballistix Tracers at 800 MHz 4-4-4-12-2T.. I fail a stress test. 3.5 GHz is fine.. Still doing tweaks.

Ballistix + P5N-E SLI = Headaches


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I have a pair of Corsairs and they can run in my system at 3.6 GHz fine. 1800 Bus speed. When I switch it out for Ballistix Tracers at 800 MHz 4-4-4-12-2T.. I fail a stress test. 3.5 GHz is fine.. Still doing tweaks.

Ballistix + P5N-E SLI = Headaches


Do me a favor bud....can u give me a direct link to those Corsair sticks within NewEgg please. I think i'll order them right now. Thanks in advance.

p.s. - I have to do it to isolate this issue or else i'll go insane thinking about it.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Flyin18T*


Do me a favor bud....can u give me a direct link to those Corsair sticks within NewEgg please. I think i'll order them right now. Thanks in advance.

p.s. - I have to do it to isolate this issue or else i'll go insane thinking about it.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034

They don't overclock buddy.. Not at all. Okay... maybe like to 850 MHz, but that doesn't count. I wouldn't get them unless you're running stock.


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145034

They don't overclock buddy.. Not at all. Okay... maybe like to 850 MHz, but that doesn't count. I wouldn't get them unless you're running stock.


After I posted I realized we're running different proc's. I was initially going by the fact you mentioned you were at 3.6 stable. Need to find sticks that'll run at least 880Mhz. Thanks for the link anyway.....appreciate it.


----------



## marsey99

if you try to up your ram much above ddr1000 this mobo will cry and throw random bsd tantrums.

link to my ram fyi


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


if you try to up your ram much above ddr1000 this mobo will cry and throw random bsd tantrums.

link to my ram fyi


And my Tracers can run 1066 MHz and pass memtest86 for 12 hours no errors; and that's with it running less than stock voltage.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
I have a pair of Corsairs and they can run in my system at 3.6 GHz fine. 1800 Bus speed. When I switch it out for Ballistix Tracers at 800 MHz 4-4-4-12-2T.. I fail a stress test. 3.5 GHz is fine.. Still doing tweaks.

Ballistix + P5N-E SLI = Headaches

Am I the only satisfied Crucial + P5NESLI user? My first set ran 1000MHz/4-3-3-6 @2.17V, my RMA replacements do 1000MHz/4-3-3-8 @2.25V. TBH I think running 4-3-3-6 is what killed my first set.

Also when I was linked 1:1 @1066MHz FSB (2.4GHz stock CPU) my RAM was very happy. When I overclocked the best my RAM would do is 1000MHz.


----------



## Ravin

Ok....well I've gone and done it. I have ordered the Maximus Formula and am ditching my P5NE-SLI. I won't be hanging in the P5NE thread anymore, but am more than happy to take ???s by PM.

In related news, I sold my P5NE, D820, PC2/4200 ram, 465W enermax, and 2x20GB ATA133 drives to my homie for $250. Basically, he buys me the Maximus and I upgrade his aging 1.0GHz Athlon rig. All he'll need is a decent video card (something better than my 7600GT) and he's good to go.


----------



## marsey99

dont bother with the max formula dude, get the p5e as its just a re stickered max f anyway with a couple of features removed.

it would save you a couple of bucks for a gpu.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Ok....well I've gone and done it. I have ordered the Maximus Formula and am ditching my P5NE-SLI. I won't be hanging in the P5NE thread anymore, but am more than happy to take ???s by PM.

In related news, I sold my P5NE, D820, PC2/4200 ram, 465W enermax, and 2x20GB ATA133 drives to my homie for $250. Basically, he buys me the Maximus and I upgrade his aging 1.0GHz Athlon rig. All he'll need is a decent video card (something better than my 7600GT) and he's good to go.

Which version did you get? I was looking at the SE but i dont really need to have a dual card setup. As you can tell ive ditched the board as well and got myself a P5k. It was a good board while it lasted but it was a great boardand all good things have to come to an end.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Which version did you get? I was looking at the SE but i dont really need to have a dual card setup. As you can tell ive ditched the board as well and got myself a P5k. It was a good board while it lasted but it was a great boardand all good things have to come to an end.









I'm also sick of this board. Too bad I have to stick with this. I'd love an ASUS Maximus Formula..


----------



## stumped

Ok, I'm having a few problems with my setup.
I have 2x1GB Crucial Ballistix (non tracers) and even at stock settings, they fail orthos. I've overclocked my e2180 to 3GHz with a 3:2 divider to keep my ram at stock. Even then they fail. So I tried upping voltage from 2.17 to 2.5 (that's the only increment I could do) and it still failed. I have now adjusted from 4-4-4-12-2T to 5-5-5-15-1T to see if that helps at all (before, when I changed to 5-5-5-15-2T, it still failed at both voltages)

If any one could help me here, that would be appreciated!
Oh yeah, I had them in the 2 yellow slots at first, then heard to move them to the black slots. Now they fail even faster!

EDIT: They fail orthos ram stress after 6 hours at STOCK!


----------



## aleiro

with out going into a long drawn out explenation... No they are not the same. The Bios contains different settings. Second, i just got mine a day or so ago (i think i mentioned i was getting one a couple of pages back). I am gonna give my mom this board...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


dont bother with the max formula dude, get the p5e as its just a re stickered max f anyway with a couple of features removed.

it would save you a couple of bucks for a gpu.


----------



## pd8731

I need help. I try to overclock my e6750 on my P5N-E board and it simply won't do it. I've tried lowering the voltage and upping the fsb a little, upping the voltage a little bit, nothing works. I set all the settings and boot up, then run CPU-Z and no changes are made. It's like my changes just aren't recognized. Also, my computer only boots up about 1 out of every 3 or 4 times. HELP

I have 4 gigs of Geil memory btw.


----------



## nytevizion

Hello people, have some issues with a friends computer. He is out of state and is running a P5N-e sli with an intel E6850, and XP Pro. Solved most of his troubles after a few days of nit picking and the latest bios update.

He is getting 4 system beeps near startup AND while the computer is up and running every so often. I thought it might be a temperature warning, but his temps are good. Stressed with orthos just to make sure.

I am not familiar with his bios and over the phone it gets tedious. Does anyone know what these beeps are? I didn't find much about beep codes in this thread or any other thread for that matter.

Also, anyone have a quick guide to set his bios up fast and efficiently... He is not overclocking, not using raid. Has 3 SATA hard drives, 2X8800gt's in SLI. After his bios upgrade, everything went to defaults and these beeps started happening.

There is stuff in there like LDT X5 for SLI, and I am not familiar with sli settings at all.

However, it's the beeps that are the main concern right now. What's causing this?


----------



## stumped

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pd8731* 
I need help. I try to overclock my e6750 on my P5N-E board and it simply won't do it. I've tried lowering the voltage and upping the fsb a little, upping the voltage a little bit, nothing works. I set all the settings and boot up, then run CPU-Z and no changes are made. It's like my changes just aren't recognized. Also, my computer only boots up about 1 out of every 3 or 4 times. HELP

I have 4 gigs of Geil memory btw.

You need to change setting from auto to manual, turn off speed step and the thermal throttle.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
dont bother with the max formula dude, get the p5e as its just a re stickered max f anyway with a couple of features removed.

it would save you a couple of bucks for a gpu.

There are some BIOS differences that my be useful for the Quad, and the Maximus has Dual LAN ports. Lol, yea, I need a new GPU. I'm waiting on Stanford to get their GPU folding updated before I decide on which card.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Which version did you get? I was looking at the SE but i dont really need to have a dual card setup. As you can tell ive ditched the board as well and got myself a P5k. It was a good board while it lasted but it was a great boardand all good things have to come to an end.









I got the non-SE. The only SE I could find was open box from the egg. The only differene between SE and non-SE is the "fusion" NB H2O block. Since I don't plan on H2O in my box I went with the non-SE.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
I'm also sick of this board. Too bad I have to stick with this. I'd love an ASUS Maximus Formula..

I love my P5NE, and if I was not able to sell it with a few other bits I'd be sticking with the P5NE too. TBH it is a real toss up between ASUS and DFI. Gigabyte came in a solit 3rd followed by Foxconn(4th) and Abit(last). The ASUS won due to the packaged sound card.


----------



## Ravin

Anyone with $0.02 chime in on this one....

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ck-2-9ghz.html


----------



## pd8731

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stumped*


You need to change setting from auto to manual, turn off speed step and the thermal throttle.


I did this, and still nothing will change. All my changes show up in the BIOS, but won't show up on CPU-z. I have the latest version of CPU-z.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pd8731*


I did this, and still nothing will change. All my changes show up in the BIOS, but won't show up on CPU-z. I have the latest version of CPU-z.


You set your *ram *timings manually to stock right?


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Anyone with $0.02 chime in on this one....

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ck-2-9ghz.html

LDT turned down?

Whats his PSU?

He can try the Pencil Mod.

Different BIOS?

Said a mil times in that thread, but he might need 1.45-1.46

Did he try Pook's min memory volt trick?

Just my


----------



## aleiro

901 bios on the ftp...


----------



## scottk

amdcamaro - question on the super pi time in your profile.

Did you round off to get 15 or did you run that at higher bus - that's alot better than what I get on a nearly identical system. I get 15.9 at 3.2, to get 15.0 flat I would have to go to 3.4 G (I seem to drop about .5 seconds/100Mhz)

Just curious as the only real processing diff bewteen us is I have tighter timings/different memory than you.


----------



## stumped

Hey guys, I have a problem with my Crucial Ballistix. They are DDR2 800. They run flawless at stock. But if you try to OC them at all, they start causing errors. I have tried relaxing the timings, and upping the voltage (from 2.17 to 2.5, the only 1 step increment there is) and still they cause errors. I'm going to try upping the voltage 1 more step, but I will be pushing 2.3v







So I need help.


----------



## AMDCAMARO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


amdcamaro - question on the super pi time in your profile.

Did you round off to get 15 or did you run that at higher bus - that's alot better than what I get on a nearly identical system. I get 15.9 at 3.2, to get 15.0 flat I would have to go to 3.4 G (I seem to drop about .5 seconds/100Mhz)

Just curious as the only real processing diff bewteen us is I have tighter timings/different memory than you.


I used the un-modded version, so I do not get the 15.876 or whatever the score would be. When I get home I will DL the modded version and check

Came out at 15.984, guess I should have skipped the second 8800 GTS and bought better ram huh?
15.906 if I run 5-5-5-12.

LOLZ


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stumped*


Hey guys, I have a problem with my Crucial Ballistix. They are DDR2 800. They run flawless at stock. But if you try to OC them at all, they start causing errors. I have tried relaxing the timings, and upping the voltage (from 2.17 to 2.5, the only 1 step increment there is) and still they cause errors. I'm going to try upping the voltage 1 more step, but I will be pushing 2.3v







So I need help.


Which slots are they in?...Many people (including me) have had stability issues with the yellow slots. Use the black ones.


----------



## mega_option101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Which slots are they in?...Many people (including me) have had stability issues with the yellow slots. Use the black ones.


Same here


----------



## stumped

I have tried the black ones, and they were even more unstable in those.
I also upped the voltage to 2.35 and they still just cranked out the errors in memtest86+


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


Same here










lol yea. My Ballistix would not pass Memtest86 running 800MHz 5-7-7-21 Trc=31 @2.2V in the yellow slots







. Stock is 1000MHz 5-5-5-15 Trc=30 @2.2V. I run 1000MHz 4-3-3-6 Trc=18 @2.2V in the black slots







.


----------



## stumped

i'm thinking of ebaying this board, and just buying a different one. I'm kind of starting to hate it.








But yeah, if any of you have ballistix ddr2 800, what are your complete settings and bios version? That would help me alot!


----------



## stumped

Ok, after testing the ram sticks individually, I have determined that one sticks will OC, while the other won't. I keeps causing errors.







So Looks like I have to RMA one of my sticks (damn, the 4th item in 2 months







) SO, I;m gonna test to make sure, but i'm pretty sure i will have to rma.









EDIT: I'm at 900MHz and counting!


----------



## mega_option101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stumped* 
Ok, after testing the ram sticks individually, I have determined that one sticks will OC, while the other won't. I keeps causing errors.







So Looks like I have to RMA one of my sticks (damn, the 4th item in 2 months







) SO, I;m gonna test to make sure, but i'm pretty sure i will have to rma.









EDIT: I'm at 900MHz and counting!

RMA them both saying that they aren't working in Dual Channels. Crucial Ballistix are made to be paired.


----------



## NICO6ride6mosh6

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Which slots are they in?...Many people (including me) have had stability issues with the yellow slots. Use the black ones.

meee too =[
i was worried for awhile whether it was my $290 RAM or the mobo...i guess now i know. i switched from yellow ro black a couple months ago and have had far fewer crashes. is there any way to fix it or do you have to just deal with it? because i'd like to add another 4GB, which means i'd have ot use the yellow slots too.


----------



## Flyin18T

Are the errors coming only when attempting to OC them?...or do you always get the errors even when running stock timing? For those running 4gigs Ballistix...are you running them unlinked or linked? If unlinked, what speed?

I have the same issue with my mobo and Ballistix ddr2 800's. Two sticks run fine in the black slots, but when I add two more sticks to the yellow slots the PC locks up after a while.


----------



## mcogan10

is there often times and FSB hole above 400 fsb on this board...I can't seem to get it stable above that fsb.


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


is there often times and FSB hole above 400 fsb on this board...I can't seem to get it stable above that fsb.


My FSB hole is between 1630 - 1720.

Getting back tot he RAM issue.....I had been running my 2x1gigs (black slot) Ballistix on AUTO mem voltage and they were running forever. When I threw in an additional 2x1gig sticks and ran it on AUTO my PC would lock up on Orthos RAM test around the 15min mark every time. Then I raised my mem voltage to 2.259 and got the same exact results. Now I lowered my mem voltage to 2.0 and I've been running Orthos RAM test for 45mins....longer than any other RAM test for me. It seems to be working for me...maybe some people should give it a shot.


----------



## GbusCrizist

I was wondering, how will my ocz reapers 2GB (2x1GB) perform, or are they even compatible?


----------



## Evju

Hi everybody. I got this board, along with the Q6600 G0, but it's just extremely hot. At load I get two cores up to 72 degrees.. And this is at stock speed, with stock cooler. I've tried reseating the cooler, applied new thermal paste and improving the air flow, nothing works. So I was thinking maybe there would be something I could do with the board to make it cooler? Any suggestions?

Thank you.


----------



## marsey99

^^make sure your bios is upto date and try to improve the airflow in your case as this is what im guessing is causing it. this is a hot running mobo and even the G0 is still a hot running proc, try running with the side off your case and if your temps drop or stay lowwer it means your case is crap and its just holding all the heat in.


----------



## Indignity

Additionally, what are you reading the temps with?

Try CoreTemp


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evju*


Hi everybody. I got this board, along with the Q6600 G0, but it's just extremely hot. At load I get two cores up to 72 degrees.. And this is at stock speed, with stock cooler. I've tried reseating the cooler, applied new thermal paste and improving the air flow, nothing works. So I was thinking maybe there would be something I could do with the board to make it cooler? Any suggestions?

Thank you.


Check your processor speed via CPU-Z. Make sure it isn't underclocked. If it is, just set everything back to default in BIOS and reboot, then check again via CPU-Z. Once confirmed it's at correct speed, then run Orthos and watch temps.


----------



## Evju

I tried removing the side door, and putting up a huge fan. Minimal effect, perhaps 1-2 degrees.

CoreTemp doesn't work for me, as i run Vista 64. BIOS, Everest and HWMonitor all shows the same values.

I just flashed to BIOS 0803...

In CPU-Z it says Core Speed 2400MHz, multiplier 9, bus speed 266,7. Core voltage is 1,2V approx...


----------



## Asce

When you reseated it, how much TIM did you use? You only need a pea size amount. Otherwise you will need to get a new cooler.


----------



## Evju

Applied a thin line of Arctic Silver 5, just as it said I should do on the Arctic Silver-homepage. I'm just curios where the problem lies. Is my Q6600 just extremely bad, or is it the motherboard\\combination? I'm considering getting a new board...


----------



## stumped

really, you don't need the line. If you just do the pea sized dot, then the warmth of the proc will cause the AS5 to spread and you will get better temps. If you take off the HSF, and look at how the AS5 spread, you will get an idea of if you're using too much. Try to pea sized dot IN THE MIDDLE and see what your temps are like (and i'm talking about putting a TINY bit out, about the size of a small grain of uncooked rice)


----------



## Flyin18T

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evju* 
Applied a thin line of Arctic Silver 5, just as it said I should do on the Arctic Silver-homepage. I'm just curios where the problem lies. Is my Q6600 just extremely bad, or is it the motherboardcombination? I'm considering getting a new board...

I just realized in your initial post that you mentioned you got TWO cores up to 72C. You have a quad core. What are the temps of the other two? Are you stress testing all cores or just two? That could definitely play a role.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NICO6ride6mosh6* 
meee too =[
i was worried for awhile whether it was my $290 RAM or the mobo...i guess now i know. i switched from yellow ro black a couple months ago and have had far fewer crashes. is there any way to fix it or do you have to just deal with it? because i'd like to add another 4GB, which means i'd have ot use the yellow slots too.

Try setting NB to 1.56V and Vdimm to 2.17V (maybe 2.25V if you feel like your microns can take it.....most D9's can.) IMO 2GB is good, 4GB is nice for x64 OSes and 8GB of RAM is overkill....even with a X64 OS(unless you have a server). On average I use about a half gig of ram for folding/background tasks. Even gaming, folding, and audio encoding all at once maxes out ~1.7GB usage, and that's reallly trying hard.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Flyin18T* 
Are the errors coming only when attempting to OC them?...or do you always get the errors even when running stock timing? For those running 4gigs Ballistix...are you running them unlinked or linked? If unlinked, what speed?

I have the same issue with my mobo and Ballistix ddr2 800's. Two sticks run fine in the black slots, but when I add two more sticks to the yellow slots the PC locks up after a while.

Me? I run stock 1000MHz with tight timings, rock solid stable (black slots). At stock timings I cant get any MHz OC _when my CPU is OCd_. I can OC my RAM if my CPU is stock, which makes me believe that the MCH strap support above 1066fsb/DDR2-800 aren't the best. 1333fsb/DDR2-1000 is pretty solid for me though.


----------



## Evju

@Flyin18T
I'm stress-testing all 4 cores. The other 2 cores is at 62 degrees. This was approx the same before i reseated the cooler. I'm stress testing with Prime95 v25.6. I thought that was normal at a Q6600?

@stumped
I'll try reseating it again tomorrow and try to put on a more even layer of thermal paste.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evju* 
@Flyin18T
I'm stress-testing all 4 cores. The other 2 cores is at 62 degrees. This was approx the same before i reseated the cooler. I'm stress testing with Prime95 v25.6. I thought that was normal at a Q6600?

@stumped
I'll try reseating it again tomorrow and try to put on a more even layer of thermal paste.

@stock settings? What's the airflow like in your case, and what is the ambient temp in your room? My Q6600 stayed well under 70C with up to 1.4V @3.0GHz on the stock cooler.

Try applying the AS5 with a rubber kitchen spatula- you can get it nice and even and really thin. Just a dab will do.


----------



## Evju

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
@stock settings? What's the airflow like in your case, and what is the ambient temp in your room? My Q6600 stayed well under 70C with up to 1.4V @3.0GHz on the stock cooler.

Try applying the AS5 with a rubber kitchen spatula- you can get it nice and even and really thin. Just a dab will do.

Stock cooler and stock settings. I'll try with a new dash of arctic silver tomorrow. I just wonder if my motherboard or CPU is busted.


----------



## Ravin

Last post from the P5NE-SLI. It's been a great board, and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it for a dual core setup. It's been fun hanging here. Cya round.


----------



## scottk

lol - my wife complains about my pile of old obsolete parts but I always say, you never know when something might prove useful. This active NB cooling is an admittedly ghetto rig up with an old P3 CPU fan. Crude but effective - just stuck to the asus plaque part of the NB HS with some really strong double sided mounting tape


----------



## marsey99

hey scott thats what mine is, i ghetto engineered my heatsink fan from an old p3 too


----------



## kippostar

Hi all








I'm an abslolute newbie to OC'ing, and i am at a loss of words as to how much this tread rocks! Quite possible the best online discussion i have ever encountered..Woaw!

Anyways, back to the work at hand:
My current setup is as follows (this is all pre clocking, as i am currently travelling and wont be back to play with it for another month..:

Mobo: P5N-e SLI (obviously)
CPU: Intel E6700 (2,67 Ghz stock)
RAM: 2 x 1GB Corsair XMS2 PC2-6400
GPU: 2 x Inno3D Geforce 7900GS (in SLI)

Currently i don't have any additional cooling, well i have an additional case fan, but that's it.
I do however have a million old CPU fan's and whatnot lying around that i'm thinking about mounting.

After having read this thread more of less from end to end, i'm feeling lucky and readier that ever to commence my first OC, alas, there is yet one thing that i find confusing as hell..
RAM timings??? i have no idea how i find the right settings, what is good and what is bad, and furthermore what potential problems i may encounter playing around with them..

If anybody has a link to a thourough explanation of said subject i'd be most thankful..
oh and also, if you have time and feel like it, i'd love it if you would give your thoughts on what i may be able to expect from an overclock of my setup







.. cheers guys! thanks for participating in this thread! (the overclockers guide to the galaxy in my opinion!!!)

Kippo


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kippostar* 
Hi all








I'm an abslolute newbie to OC'ing, and i am at a loss of words as to how much this tread rocks! Quite possible the best online discussion i have ever encountered..Woaw!

Anyways, back to the work at hand:
My current setup is as follows (this is all pre clocking, as i am currently travelling and wont be back to play with it for another month..:

Mobo: P5N-e SLI (obviously)
CPU: Intel E6700 (2,67 Ghz stock)
RAM: 2 x 1GB Corsair XMS2 PC2-6400
GPU: 2 x Inno3D Geforce 7900GS (in SLI)

Currently i don't have any additional cooling, well i have an additional case fan, but that's it.
I do however have a million old CPU fan's and whatnot lying around that i'm thinking about mounting.

After having read this thread more of less from end to end, i'm feeling lucky and readier that ever to commence my first OC, alas, there is yet one thing that i find confusing as hell..
RAM timings??? i have no idea how i find the right settings, what is good and what is bad, and furthermore what potential problems i may encounter playing around with them..

If anybody has a link to a thourough explanation of said subject i'd be most thankful..
oh and also, if you have time and feel like it, i'd love it if you would give your thoughts on what i may be able to expect from an overclock of my setup







.. cheers guys! thanks for participating in this thread! (the overclockers guide to the galaxy in my opinion!!!)

Kippo

your ram timings should be 4-4-4-12 2t


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kippostar* 
Hi all








I'm an abslolute newbie to OC'ing, and i am at a loss of words as to how much this tread rocks! Quite possible the best online discussion i have ever encountered..Woaw!

Anyways, back to the work at hand:
My current setup is as follows (this is all pre clocking, as i am currently travelling and wont be back to play with it for another month..:

Mobo: P5N-e SLI (obviously)
CPU: Intel E6700 (2,67 Ghz stock)
RAM: 2 x 1GB Corsair XMS2 PC2-6400
GPU: 2 x Inno3D Geforce 7900GS (in SLI)

Currently i don't have any additional cooling, well i have an additional case fan, but that's it.
I do however have a million old CPU fan's and whatnot lying around that i'm thinking about mounting.

After having read this thread more of less from end to end, i'm feeling lucky and readier that ever to commence my first OC, alas, there is yet one thing that i find confusing as hell..
RAM timings??? i have no idea how i find the right settings, what is good and what is bad, and furthermore what potential problems i may encounter playing around with them..

If anybody has a link to a thourough explanation of said subject i'd be most thankful..
oh and also, if you have time and feel like it, i'd love it if you would give your thoughts on what i may be able to expect from an overclock of my setup







.. cheers guys! thanks for participating in this thread! (the overclockers guide to the galaxy in my opinion!!!)

Kippo

Your RAM timings should be 4-4-4-12-2T but if you have the model name of your RAM you can easily Google it.

I believe for those Corsair RAMs the timing in labeled on the RAM itself.

----

scottk, I just threw on a 40mm fan on my stock NB heatsink. But now I replaced it completly with a HR-05. Sucks that this board doesn't have NB temps. When I created my computer I didn't know about this forum, or much about parts. Oh boy did I learn a lot.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Evju* 
Stock cooler and stock settings. I'll try with a new dash of arctic silver tomorrow. I just wonder if my motherboard or CPU is busted.

Hm.. Are you sure you have the Intel Heatsink on right? Quads don't run that hot even on full load with stock heatsink. You have about a 10 C difference between 2 cores. Not good. I see no problem with voltage either.

To put on the Intel Heatsink you turn the 4 clips so that the arrow faces towards the heatsink. Align the holes and push down all the way. You should hear a click each time. To remove, you turn so the arrow faces away from the heatsink (don't overturn or you'll break it).


----------



## Gauvenator

So I finally attached a 70mm fan to the hr-05, and it drops temps about 1Â°C







(at a speed that's pretty silent, and not ridiculously loud)

However, the heatsink feels alot cooler, so it must help some, just not according to the sensor on this board...oh and when I reinstalled the cooler with the pad, my temps dropped 2-3Â°C.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
So I finally attached a 70mm fan to the hr-05, and it drops temps about 1Â°C







(at a speed that's pretty silent, and not ridiculously loud)

However, the heatsink feels alot cooler, so it must help some, just not according to the sensor on this board...oh and when I reinstalled the cooler with the pad, my temps dropped 2-3Â°C.

What.. My "MB" temperature is still 30C. No change with the stock heatsink or HR-05. Maybe my sensor is dead?









When I boot up it's like 25 C then it raises to the normal 30C. It stays around 30 - 31C. Even under Orthos.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


What.. My "MB" temperature is still 30C. No change with the stock heatsink or HR-05. Maybe my sensor is dead?









When I boot up it's like 25 C then it raises to the normal 30C. It stays around 30 - 31C. Even under Orthos.










Orthos never really raises it for me either....but it does go up when I play games. I'm assuming mostly from the heat of the gfx card, but possibly from increased nb traffic too.

This is definitely one of the most annoying things about this board :swearing:


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Orthos never really raises it for me either....but it does go up when I play games. I'm assuming mostly from the heat of the gfx card, but possibly from increased nb traffic too.

This is definitely one of the most annoying things about this board :swearing:


Games do nothing to raise the MB temp. Still 30-31C.


----------



## marsey99

i read somwhere a while back that the sensor isnt on the nb but just bellow the first pcie, now how true this is im not sure but the only reason i belive it is due to the fact that my gpu temp has more bearing on it than any other factor. it stays the same regardless of volts or heatsink, although an aftermarket cooler on it has enabled me to oc further than stock did. a 76gt isnt the hottest of gpu so it will have little impact on the mb temp readings.


----------



## kippostar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Your RAM timings should be 4-4-4-12-2T but if you have the model name of your RAM you can easily Google it.

I believe for those Corsair RAMs the timing in labeled on the RAM itself.

Ahh perfect, ok thanks guys, i'll def be back with some results and whatnot when i get it done!
I'm still scared to death that i'll fry my cpu:s..

Cya later guys!
Kippo


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
i read somwhere a while back that the sensor isnt on the nb but just bellow the first pcie, now how true this is im not sure but the only reason i belive it is due to the fact that my gpu temp has more bearing on it than any other factor. it stays the same regardless of volts or heatsink, although an aftermarket cooler on it has enabled me to oc further than stock did. a 76gt isnt the hottest of gpu so it will have little impact on the mb temp readings.

I read that too, on the ASUS forums. I thoguht it was the PCI slots but it could be PCI-E, which could be why the temps vary. My 7600 idles at 43 C.

But my MB used to hit 42 C after gaming... Before I took off the NB heatsink and replaced it with AS5.. Hm... Then it was always 29-31 C.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Last post from the P5NE-SLI. It's been a great board, and I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend it for a dual core setup. It's been fun hanging here. Cya round.









Maximus Formula is up and running. I think I love the new board, the only complaint I have is the memory frequency setting in BIOS- unlike the P5NE where you can select a desired freq, on the Maximus you select a specific strap.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Maximus Formula is up and running. I think I love the new board, the only complaint I have is the memory frequency setting in BIOS- unlike the P5NE where you can select a desired freq, on the Maximus you select a specific strap.

Too bad I haven't been exposed to that kind of stuff.

I wish you the best. And.. where are the pics?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Too bad I haven't been exposed to that kind of stuff.

I wish you the best. And.. where are the pics?










Click the Maximus Overhaul link in my sig


----------



## TriBeCa

hi all, thought i'd drop in and say hi







Haven't been around for...a while now. Helping a friend with a new build, so I've been haunting OC.net a bit.

Hey Ravin, pity to see you leaving the P5N-E behind. I'm sure it'll miss you







But as we discussed at length many months ago, this is NOT a board for quads so I didn't really expect you to stay....

And I see people are STILL trying to figure out where the MB temp sensor is. I've given up on that lol....

edit: Just noticed this is the 6000th reply!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *kippostar* 
Ahh perfect, ok thanks guys, i'll def be back with some results and whatnot when i get it done!
I'm still scared to death that i'll fry my cpu:s..

Cya later guys!
Kippo

don't worry...you won't fry it as long as you don't push lots of voltage and temps. Enjoy OC'ing


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
hi all, thought i'd drop in and say hi







Haven't been around for...a while now. Helping a friend with a new build, so I've been haunting Overclock.net a bit.

Hey Ravin, pity to see you leaving the P5N-E behind. I'm sure it'll miss you







But as we discussed at length many months ago, this is NOT a board for quads so I didn't really expect you to stay....

And I see people are STILL trying to figure out where the MB temp sensor is. I've given up on that lol....

edit: Just noticed this is the 6000th reply!

Hey Trib glad to see your around. Ive moved from this board as well, got fed up of its quirks.


----------



## MrQ

Hey all,

I know about the Quads not overclocking well on this board. But I really would like to OC it to 3ghz.

My Rig:

ASUS P5N-E SLI
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4ghz (G0 Revision)
2x Kingston 1GB PC 6400 RAM
nVidia 8800 GTS 320MB OC GPU
Seagate 7200RPM 200GB
Western Digital 7200RPM 160GB
500 watt Ultra V-series PSU

I am a little bummed that I can't get beyond 2.87 on the AI OC.

Thanks

Q


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Hey Ravin, pity to see you leaving the P5N-E behind. I'm sure it'll miss you







But as we discussed at length many months ago, this is NOT a board for quads so I didn't really expect you to stay....


lol, yea. My buddy needs an upgrade bad. He has a 1.0GHz athlon with 266MHz DDR1 ram. I tossed him an unopened retail D820, 2x1GB PQI DDR2/533, and 465W enermax PSU, then told him for a donation of $250 I'd give him my P5NE too. That combo seemed to work pretty well, and he agreed. I got rid of my spare parts, he got a new rig, and I got the Maximus.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Hey all,
I know about the Quads not overclocking well on this board. But I really would like to OC it to 3ghz.
I am a little bummed that I can't get beyond 2.87 on the AI OC.
Thanks

Q


2.87GHz on a software OC for your setup is phenominal. I've only seen 3 P5NE-SLI boards running quads at 3.0GHz (mine was one), all of them OCd in BIOS. Try running your RAM at stock speed/timings in BIOS UNLINKED with your CPU. You should be able to hit 333x9 on fairly low Vcore- I was running 1.22V for my 1.2875VID. Also note, pushing higher Vcore (1.35+) with a quad on this board tends to cause stability issues at any speed, so if you need more juice than that you are SOL.


----------



## MrQ

I didn't do a software OC is used the AI overclock in the biOS. Was pretty stable too.

However, I have tried to do it manual and it will save in the bios, but it will boot the default changes into windows, though







. hee vcore stays the same.


----------



## stumped

disable execute-bit diasable, speedstep (what ever they named it to) all those temp saving options.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
I didn't do a software OC is used the AI overclock in the biOS. Was pretty stable too.

However, I have tried to do it manual and it will save in the bios, but it will boot the default changes into windows, though







. hee vcore stays the same.

My bad...thought you were referring to the AI suite software. Forgot about the AI oc in BIOS.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Hey Trib glad to see your around. Ive moved from this board as well, got fed up of its quirks.


did the p5k get you a better OC? yeah, this board has its share of problems, but at the time it was released it was still the best board in its price range for OCing a quad









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


lol, yea. My buddy needs an upgrade bad. He has a 1.0GHz athlon with 266MHz DDR1 ram. I tossed him an unopened retail D820, 2x1GB PQI DDR2/533, and 465W enermax PSU, then told him for a donation of $250 I'd give him my P5NE too. That combo seemed to work pretty well, and he agreed. I got rid of my spare parts, he got a new rig, and I got the Maximus.


Heh, sounds like he got a good deal







When I moved to new york a few years I just handed off my old rig intact to a buddy of mine. That thing is seriously old now though - the rig I kept was...an AMD Athlon XP 2500+









Anyway, gonna be a while before I spring for an upgrade like the Maximus. Probably not until I leave new york in ~3 years, when I'll be looking for a new rig. In the meantime, I've got a friend putting together a q6600 rig (with an abit ip35 pro - the maximus is a bit out of budget lol). Maybe sometime in the next year I'll get my supervisor to spring for a new computer for me and convince him to let me build it myself, rather than buy from Dell as they always do....


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


So I finally attached a 70mm fan to the hr-05, and it drops temps about 1Â°C







(at a speed that's pretty silent, and not ridiculously loud)

However, the heatsink feels alot cooler, so it must help some, just not according to the sensor on this board...oh and when I reinstalled the cooler with the pad, my temps dropped 2-3Â°C.



LOL - after I put my ghetto fan on my NB I swear the MB temp actually went up a degree. However, the heatsink went from 5 seconds till unbearably hot to I can rest my finger on it all day if I wanted to.

I assume after I put in the zalman there was little or no air going over it so all the heat was staying in the NB/HS area and when I put on the fan it started blowing the warm air torward wherever the MB temp sensor lives.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


LOL - after I put my ghetto fan on my NB I swear the MB temp actually went up a degree. However, the heatsink went from 5 seconds till unbearably hot to I can rest my finger on it all day if I wanted to.

I assume after I put in the zalman there was little or no air going over it so all the heat was staying in the NB/HS area and when I put on the fan it started blowing the warm air torward wherever the MB temp sensor lives.












Just like me. Just like me..


----------



## Ghostkilla

What voltages are you guys running or should I ask what would you recommend running for a 3.2Ghz OC on a E6400 Conroe? I try to bump to 1.45v and it will boot into windows but it crashes within seconds of using prime95. Also I might add when I set it @ 1.45v in bios cpu-z reports it as 1.40v. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## ivanb

hi, i'm new in this forum. I ve owned a P5N-E SLI for almost a year now but only recently started overclocking and i have to say that this thread has been a grate help so i wanted to introduce myself and also ask for some sugestions on coolers to go for more oc.
I have a C2D E6200 1.86Ghz whith a Corsair XMS2 512X2 1066 Kit and a 8600GT XXX VGA (to be changed soon for a 8800GT) and so far i just got to overclock the cpu to 3.2GHZ and the memory to 1200Mhz with a stable system and ceptable temperatures (55/40), all of this with stock coolers.

what should i do next to improve stability besides changing the cpu cooler, i'm about to but an Evercool Iceman wich i've been told is good for the money. The NB is getting too hot but i don't know if that problem can be solved with a fan.
Should i upgrade the psu? it's been quite stable so far. Any suggestions?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ivanb* 
hi, i'm new in this forum. I ve owned a P5N-E SLI for almost a year now but only recently started overclocking and i have to say that this thread has been a grate help so i wanted to introduce myself and also ask for some sugestions on coolers to go for more oc.
I have a C2D E6200 1.86Ghz whith a Corsair XMS2 512X2 1066 Kit and a 8600GT XXX VGA (to be changed soon for a 8800GT) and so far i just got to overclock the cpu to 3.2GHZ and the memory to 1200Mhz with a stable system and ceptable temperatures (55/40), all of this with stock coolers.

what should i do next to improve stability besides changing the cpu cooler, i'm about to but an Evercool Iceman wich i've been told is good for the money. The NB is getting too hot but i don't know if that problem can be solved with a fan.
Should i upgrade the psu? it's been quite stable so far. Any suggestions?


If the system is stable why change aything on it? The NB gets hot, its supposed to. IMO you can put a fan on it or not, it doesnt really matter either way. IF you want a good cheeper smaller cooler I recommend the Arctic freezer pro 7. If you want maximum cooling go with a TT120.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
did the p5k get you a better OC? yeah, this board has its share of problems, but at the time it was released it was still the best board in its price range for OCing a quad









The faster RAM has helped huge amounts for me to run at 3.6 Ghz for a while. But i dont really like the cooling on the board since the NB gets HOT and a i mean hot, i couldnt touch the thing for more than a secondand that was at a low NB voltage. But i got a Maximus Formula SE at work being put aside for me, so i cant get along with this board i can have the Maximus instead and use its Fusion block. And i hate how the P5K has its straps and how it adjusts the RAM speed when you adjust the FSB.


----------



## Svven

Hi I am new to the overclocking scene....I have a asus P5N-E SLI mb with a q6600 cpu. I want to overclock to 3.2 Ghz minium. What air coolling products will work. (fit.)
Tnx


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Svven*


Hi I am new to the overclocking scene....I have a asus P5N-E SLI mb with a q6600 cpu. I want to overclock to 3.2 Ghz minium. What air coolling products will work. (fit.)
Tnx


If you look on the first page of this thread, it has a list of what will fit on this board. This board isnt great for Quads and you will be lucky to see 3Ghz and be stable. Only 3 people on here have had a Q6600 at 3ghz stable.


----------



## OCfrostmage

here is what i got at the moment.
Motherboard: 
CPU Type DualCore Intel Core 2 E8400, 3600 MHz (9 x 400) 
Motherboard Name Asus P5N-E SLI (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394) 
Motherboard Chipset nVIDIA nForce 650i SLI 
System Memory 2048 MB (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM) 
DIMM1: A-Data DQVE1A16 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz) 
DIMM2: A-Data DQVE1A16 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz) 
BIOS Type Award (12/26/07) 
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1) 
Communication Port Printer Port (LPT1)

Display: 
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT (512 MB)

So I have set unlinked mode raised my FSB to 1600mhz which gives me the 3.6ghz over clock.. 1750 works great at 3.9 but im worried I have my cpu voltage on auto and it scales on up to 1.424... is it dangerous to have this set on auto? or is this voltage normal.. my core temps are running about 45-49 Celsius idling while i type this but the main cpu temp in everest is showing 36 at idle.

Any help or comments on my setup would be great..I am also running the stock intel fan but have nice airflow in this system and seems cool...

I use some highend 3d modeling/rendering programs like maya/3dsmax/zbrush and I want to max my render time without frying my processor









What would be a good everyday setting for me?


----------



## Svven

K shot, nice to know. 
Will the Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU Cooler fit on the mb?
and what mb will be ok to overclock to 3.2GHz and higher?


----------



## Ghostkilla

what am i on ignore here??


----------



## bandook916

I have a quick question. I have a p5ne-sli paired with a Pentium D 915.

I ordered a E2180 couple days back and a E6600...How far can I take these 2 CPU's with the P5NE-SLI? I'm hoping for well over 3.0. Any ideads/suggestions?


----------



## bandook916

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Svven* 
K shot, nice to know.
Will the Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU Cooler fit on the mb?
and what mb will be ok to overclock to 3.2GHz and higher?









A P35/P38 chipset motherboard to hit over 3.0 for a Quad-Core.


----------



## MrQ

Ok I tried your advice. I still could not post at 3.0Ghz but I am not giving up...

These are the settings that I was the closest to posting at:

Vcore: 1.36
Offset: 0.1
NB: 1.76
FSB: 1345
Memory and FSB in Sync Mode
Mem Voltage Auto

Any improvements or is there something I missed? I am not giving up on this processor for overclocking. If there is a will there is a way.









MrQ


----------



## MrQ

Also can anybody update the NB and CPU coolers on the first post. I am really looking for an affordable and good cooler for bother NB and CPU. There is only an inch to spare between the top of my oem heatsink and my PSU.

Any ideas?


----------



## TriBeCa

Did some fiddling today and am encountering some really weird behavior from the memory controller. At 3.32 GHz 1:1 ratio (415MHz bus) I get memory read speads around 9000-10000 and latency around 50-54ms (depending on whether I'm at 1T or 2T, I tested both). However, at 3.40 GHz and 3.44 GHz (1:1 ratio, 425 and 430 bus) the read spead tanks to just over 8000 and the latency is well over 70ms.

What gives? Anyone encountered this before? I PCMark as well at 3.32GHz as I do 3.44GHz, because the memory latency and read/write speeds take a brutal hit. This is even if I keep almost ALL of the memory subtimings constant (not on auto) as well (tRC and tRD and a couple others). I've tested this at 4-4-4-7 and 4-4-4-12 at both 1T and 2T. Heck I event get better performance from the RAM at 4-4-4-12-2T 830MHz than I do at 5-4-4-7-2T 1063MHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


What voltages are you guys running or should I ask what would you recommend running for a 3.2Ghz OC on a E6400 Conroe? I try to bump to 1.45v and it will boot into windows but it crashes within seconds of using prime95. Also I might add when I set it @ 1.45v in bios cpu-z reports it as 1.40v. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.


I've found the e6400 on this board gets really really power hungry by the time you hit 3.2GHz and higher. The first thing will be to make sure you're pushing at least 1.56 vNB. If you are and you're still having trouble you may need to go as high 1.5vcore, although I doubt. Also make sure your vdimm is NO HIGHER than maximum spec for your RAM. There's a power management issue on this board and if you push too much voltage all over the place, some components won't get enough power.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OCfrostmage*


here is what i got at the moment.
Motherboard: 
CPU Type DualCore Intel Core 2 E8400, 3600 MHz (9 x 400) 
Motherboard Name Asus P5N-E SLI (2 PCI, 1 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394) 
Motherboard Chipset nVIDIA nForce 650i SLI 
System Memory 2048 MB (DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM) 
DIMM1: A-Data DQVE1A16 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz) 
DIMM2: A-Data DQVE1A16 1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM (5-5-5-18 @ 400 MHz) (4-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz) 
BIOS Type Award (12/26/07) 
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1) 
Communication Port Printer Port (LPT1)

Display: 
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT (512 MB)

So I have set unlinked mode raised my FSB to 1600mhz which gives me the 3.6ghz over clock.. 1750 works great at 3.9 but im worried I have my cpu voltage on auto and it scales on up to 1.424... is it dangerous to have this set on auto? or is this voltage normal.. my core temps are running about 45-49 Celsius idling while i type this but the main cpu temp in everest is showing 36 at idle.

Any help or comments on my setup would be great..I am also running the stock intel fan but have nice airflow in this system and seems cool...

I use some highend 3d modeling/rendering programs like maya/3dsmax/zbrush and I want to max my render time without frying my processor









What would be a good everyday setting for me?


I would NOT leave your vcore on auto. This board tends to give a lot of juice, and even though your temps are low the penryn processors are reported to die FAST if they're overvolted. You can find discussions of this issue in the Intel CPU forum here. I don't know offhand what voltage range is reasonable, but definately go manual and use the minimum vcore possible to remain stable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bandook916*


I have a quick question. I have a p5ne-sli paired with a Pentium D 915.

I ordered a E2180 couple days back and a E6600...How far can I take these 2 CPU's with the P5NE-SLI? I'm hoping for well over 3.0. Any ideads/suggestions?


You should have no trouble getting over 3GHz with e6600 at least, and probably the e2180 as well, although I'm less familiar with them. As for ideas/suggestions - check out the OCing guide in my sig


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Svven*


K shot, nice to know. 
Will the Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU Cooler fit on the mb?
and what mb will be ok to overclock to 3.2GHz and higher?










i have the cpns9500 and i have a thermaltake northbridge cooler and they touch and it barely clears my idle temps are low 30's with my OC although really this board is terrible for overclocking quads even though I got 3.0ghz im going to get a P35 chipset probably because I want to hit 3.6 on air


----------



## mcogan10

is it safe to run over 1.5v through the northbridge without another cooling solution?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *P1MP1NJ*


i have the cpns9500 and i have a thermaltake northbridge cooler and they touch and it barely clears my idle temps are low 30's with my OC although really this board is terrible for overclocking quads even though I got 3.0ghz im going to get a P35 chipset probably because I want to hit 3.6 on air


Lol...3.0GHz was hard to get on the P5NE, and 3.6GHz as simple as 400*9 and 1.4Vcore on the Maximus. I may even be able to trim some Vcore out....we'll see.


----------



## Betrivent

And you're posting this in the P5N-E SLI thread because?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Betrivent* 
And you're posting this in the P5N-E SLI thread because?

Because I was one of 3 Q6600s to reach 3.0GHz stable on the P5NE-SLI. Because I've made a lot of friends in this thread and helped a lot of people, and gotten help myself. Because a lot of Quad owners with P5NEs may want to see how their CPU may do in another board.

Don't be beligerent Betrivent.







Ill K.O. you.


----------



## TriBeCa

Ravin - take a look at my comment about the memory controller above, I'd love your input. I'm just baffled as to why I get MUCH better memory benchmarks at 830MHz than at any of the higher speeds I've tested.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
is it safe to run over 1.5v through the northbridge without another cooling solution?

did you reseat the HS with AS5 or some other decent TIM? If you did and you have at least some degree of airflow (from a CPU or side-panel intake fan or something) on the NB, then you're fine.


----------



## OCfrostmage

thx for the quick reply TriBeCa!

OK I fixed my vcore at 1.4 for now
gonna lower it some more...

For anyone experimenting on the e8400 im reading elsewhere that the vcore values reported in everest are 10 degrees to high.

Im loving this mobo and processor thanks for the help!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Ravin - take a look at my comment about the memory controller above, I'd love your input. I'm just baffled as to why I get MUCH better memory benchmarks at 830MHz than at any of the higher speeds I've tested.


From what I'v read it sounds like MCH strap latencies and not your RAM responsible for your decreased performance at increased DDR MHz. Earlier P965 boards were particularly prone to this phenomenon- it took 3 revisions and 10 BIOS updates, after the 975x release for ASUS and GIGABYTE to get a hold of the problem on the P965. (why I held on to my P945/DDR2-533 for so long). The 650i chipset was supposed to be roughly equivilent to the P965 chipset, so that's my guess.

I've also noticed this phenomenon on my Maximus- I get equal bandwidth and better latencies running DDR-800 on slightly looser timings on the Maximus than I did when I was running DDR-1000 on slightly tighter timings on the P5NE. I'm not too sure yet how this will fine tune, but it looks like I'll probably settle in at 400x9=3.6GHz with DDR-800 on wicked tight timings. Any thoughts on trying to run 1T? Was not stable on the P5NE....


----------



## TriBeCa

I'm taking a second pass at getting 1T stable now...which is why I encountered the weird MCH behavior (I had assumed it was the MCH and not the RAM, as it would make no sense if it was the RAM itself). I had 1T stable for 6 months or so on my first P5NE (well, actually my second, but the first one died on the first day), and when I killed it with a bad BIOS flash the replacement board wouldn't go stable on 1T.

All I did on my first board was settle on a CPU OC I was happy with, and then go to 1T and rerun orthos. And it worked, so I kept it







Orthos seems to hit errors at 1T on this board though (at ~2 hours if I stress CPU and ~5 minutes if I stress RAM).

If you can get it's great though - on this board it dropped my RAM latency by ~4ms, added ~1000 to my read spead and ~300 to my write spead. PCMark05 came up with a score ~600 points higher at 1T vs. 2T (though I might've tightened up some subtimings for that too, I don't remember exactly).


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Svven*


K shot, nice to know. 
Will the Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU Cooler fit on the mb?
and what mb will be ok to overclock to 3.2GHz and higher?










This board will take you to 3.2ghz fine, if you're not on a quad. Then its tricky and hit or miss. 9700nt? OH YEAH BABY










Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Also can anybody update the NB and CPU coolers on the first post. I am really looking for an affordable and good cooler for bother NB and CPU. There is only an inch to spare between the top of my oem heatsink and my PSU.

Any ideas?


You could get something like a TRUE and mount it horizontally so the fan blows into your PSU. My 9700nt is about half an inch to an inch above the board if thats any reference.

As for Northbridge, theres nothing like an HR-05 (sli version is what i have)


----------



## TriBeCa

Kopi you need a new monitor









and nice to see you still haunting this thread, btw









I think I'm about to give up on 1T again. Even with 1.7 vNB and almost 2.4 vdimm I can't get it stable.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Also can anybody update the NB and CPU coolers on the first post. I am really looking for an affordable and good cooler for bother NB and CPU. There is only an inch to spare between the top of my oem heatsink and my PSU.

Any ideas?


I will message an admin/mod and see if anything can be done.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


is it safe to run over 1.5v through the northbridge without another cooling solution?


I don't suggest running past 1.5v on NB at all. The chipset is simply too hot. If you must though, don't run it for normal daily use; benchmark is fine. You can throw on a 40 mm fan onto the stock NB easily.


----------



## Betrivent

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Because I was one of 3 Q6600s to reach 3.0GHz stable on the P5NE-SLI. Because I've made a lot of friends in this thread and helped a lot of people, and gotten help myself. Because a lot of Quad owners with P5NEs may want to see how their CPU may do in another board.

Don't be beligerent Betrivent.







Ill K.O. you.











Heh, sorry. Thought you were just some random user who hopped in here and started talking about a completely random board for no reason.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Svven* 
K shot, nice to know.
Will the Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU Cooler fit on the mb?
and what mb will be ok to overclock to 3.2GHz and higher?









I've been running this CPU fan for a while now. It fits the P5N-E SLI perfectly. And on the temp side, it has kept all working cooler than expected. At idle, just above case temp, and has never been near dangerous territory at full load.


----------



## MrQ

Thanks for your input everybody. But I am still going to 3ghz .







I think I am going to need better ram, but I dunno if that will be a factor?

I think I am going to need a CPU Cooler (Love the Ultra Chilltec), NB cooler, and SLi or better OC memory and a more powerful PSU. Which all turns out to be about $300 worth of upgrades...sigh









I due time, I guess. Soooo,...anybody need a computer built? Good rates.









MrQ

(If anybody is "really" interested send me an e-mail @ [email protected])


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Thanks for your input everybody. But I am still going to 3ghz .







I think I am going to need better ram, but I dunno if that will be a factor?

I think I am going to need a CPU Cooler (Love the Ultra Chilltec), NB cooler, and SLi or better OC memory and a more powerful PSU. Which all turns out to be about $300 worth of upgrades...sigh









I due time, I guess. Soooo,...anybody need a computer built? Good rates.









MrQ

(If anybody is "really" interested send me an e-mail @ [email protected])

RAM willl be a factor. I recommend the G.Skills since Ballistix seem to be a little strange on this board.

For a CPU cooler there's always the Tuniq Tower 120 and Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme.

For NB and SB, Thermalright HR-05 or HR-05 IFX is simply the best.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Thanks for your input everybody. But I am still going to 3ghz .







I think I am going to need better ram, but I dunno if that will be a factor?

MrQ

(If anybody is "really" interested send me an e-mail @ [email protected])


IMO your RAM should be fine- just set it to stock or underclocked settings to ensure your CPU is stable. I actually did not notice much of a difference between 800MHz and 1000MHz on my P5NE. I got the best bandwidth/latencies running memory 1:1 1066MHz with the CPU at stock, but could not get any more MHz out of it.

Also to note, I get almost exactly the same bandwidth at 800MHz 4-4-4-12 on my maximus as I did 1000MHz 4-3-3-(6 or 8) on the P5NE, and slightly improved latencies.

If you're dying to get your quad to 3.0 and beyond all you need is a P35/X38 board...good to go.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Ballistix seem to be a little strange on this board.


I really am starting to believe that I am the only person who was happy with the P5NE/ballistix combo. I had good luck with both sets of RAM.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



IMO your RAM should be fine- just set it to stock or underclocked settings to ensure your CPU is stable.



Quote:



RAM willl be a factor. I recommend the G.Skills since Ballistix seem to be a little strange on this board.


LOL.

Ok I don't plan on ugrading this board unless it is to one that can support a 45nm quad which will be my next upgrade. Since you are one of the few people who got your CPU to 3ghz can you just send me what you used on your BIOS settings? I read from you guys that its not a good deal to run the NB at 1.5 or higher voltage but thats what it took to almost boot into windows.

Any Ideas?


----------



## TriBeCa

I run at 1.56 consistently and haven't had a problem, although I've a Tt Extreme Spirit II on there.


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I run at 1.56 consistently and haven't had a problem, although I've a Tt Extreme Spirit II on there.


I have the same cooler and it works great on this mobo although it does come in contact with my CPU heatsink its nothing to bad.

Hey I like my ram to mobo combo it works good but I think I'm gonna get the dfi dark mobo so I can really push my chip. One of the rare decent p5nes may be in the for sale section sometime soon lol


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


LOL.

Ok I don't plan on ugrading this board unless it is to one that can support a 45nm quad which will be my next upgrade. Since you are one of the few people who got your CPU to 3ghz can you just send me what you used on your BIOS settings? I read from you guys that its not a good deal to run the NB at 1.5 or higher voltage but thats what it took to almost boot into windows.

Any Ideas?


I know it's funny. I found that at DDR 800 on the maximus I get roughly the same benchmarks as I did on the P5NE at DDR1000- I suspect it is due to MCH latencies/straps. I've never been a huge fan of RAM OCing anyway....never seemed to get the kind of results with CPU/GPU ocs. Seems that 800MHz might just be the sweet spot on the P5NE unless you can shatter DDR 1066 speeds.

Ok....My settings for 3.0GHz
RAM and CPU unlinked, FSB=1333, multi=9x
RAM=1000 4-3-3-8 2T(may be a bit much for PC6400 to handle, pick a RAM setting you know will be stable). 
Vcore=1.22V(VID=1.2875V), +100mV DISABLE/OFF _Note, that I found 3.0GHz stability suffered with more than 1.34V on my P5NE. 3.2GHz was unbootable above 1.34V, but stable enough for super-pi and CPUz at lower volts._ 
VNB=1.56V, VDimm=2.17/2.25V. 
LDT multi=5x. C1E, EIST, and Thermal monitoring=DISABLE, Vanderpool Technolegy=Enable. Any unused ports (LPT/COM/eSATA)=DISABLE

_Edit: I found that increasing voltages anywhere on the board can be your enemy when trying to OC a quad. Start with low voltage settings and work upward slowly until you get exactly enough with nothing extra._

Edit2: IMO if you are going 45nm, wait for Nehalem with its integrated MCH. I think all P35/X38 boards will support the current 45nm chips, so if you really want a Penryn/Wolfdale you are safe to upgrade there.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I don't suggest running past 1.5v on NB at all. The chipset is simply too hot. If you must though, don't run it for normal daily use; benchmark is fine. You can throw on a 40 mm fan onto the stock NB easily.


The chipset does run very hot indeed which is why i put it under water. Plus i wouldnt suggest using the stock NB cooler at all, get yourself a decent chipset cooler.


----------



## MrQ

Ok thanks. Its nice to know there is someone around here who was able to get the 3ghz core on the quad on this board.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

okay hey guys couple questions here...

first off this is about my sig rig

this mobo seems to keep frying ram. I am on my second set of crucial ballistix. First one stick went and i rma'd it then just today the other stick went. I am on the computer now but idk how stable it is bc i get millions (literally) of erros when i run memtest for like 10 min.

I have NO oc at all the board just seems to like to fry my ram. I reset cmos and i would get post and windows xp would load i would c the desktop for a second then it would just restart.

Loading ubuntu it says that the kernal cannot sync--kernel in panick moad attempting to kill init

i really have no idea *** is going on bc i have already rma'd the board once and this is my second set of memory with it























the only thing i changed that got it running windows this time was i unlinked the ram in bios. Before the cmos clear i had all the settins done timing and voltage etc except to unlink it.

Does this board not like any type of memory?? idk what to do i should be getting my other stick of memory back friday or early next week


----------



## TriBeCa

Is your RAM one of these?

Part #: BL2KIT12864AA804 • DDR2 PC2-6400 • 4-4-4-12 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR2-800 • 2.2V • SLI-Ready •

Part #: BL2KIT12864AL804 • DDR2 PC2-6400 • 4-4-4-12 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR2-800 • 2.2V • SLI-Ready •

Part #: CT2KIT12864AA800 • DDR2 PC2-6400 • CL=6 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR2-800 • 1.8V •

If the part # doesn't match one of those 3, your RAM hasn't tested stable in the board and it may just never work properly in this board. If it _is_ one of those the first question I have is: did you manually set the timings (i.e. 4-4-4-12-2T) in the BIOS? If you didn't, that's the #1 cause of instability on this board. If you did, make sure you manually set the voltage to stock as well. If you've done all that and it's still not working and your RAM is one of the kits I posted above, something is seriously wrong. Maybe try the other pair of slots, and if that doesn't work then RMA the RAM....


----------



## deepblue007

Hiya Everyone,

I want to thank everyone on this forum for their posts & help. I just upgraded my P5N-E SLI with an Intel E8400 CPU (breathing new life into this old, but awesome motherboard). I have managed to get the CPU clocking at 4GHz stable. My rig is:
Asus P5N-E SLI MB (Bios 0901) - FSB @ 1780 NB 1.784V
Intel E8400 CPU - core speed 4005MHz (@1.4V v-core)
2 x MSI 8800GT SLI
Dell 24" LCD
2 x 2GB Transcend Jetram @ 890MHz
I am using a gigabyte 3d Watercooling system for CPU
Gigabyte Poseidon Chassis
Gigabyte ODIN 800W PSU
Additional Thermalright HR-05 SLI for southbridge passive cooling
Stock northbridge heatsink with additional fan blowing on it.
I have another Thermalright HR-05 SLI to fit to the northbridge, but am concerned that it won't make a difference as it is similar in size to the stock heatsink. Any feedback here would be appreciated.

My main objective is to have an uber gaming rig (hence the choice of E8400, not Q9450) that is still completely portable / self-contained and easy to take to LAN's

I have attached my 3dMark scores

Cheers.


----------



## MrQ

Show off!!







No, really, great job. I have an E8400 on a customers build and he wanted it overclocked. Wouldn't it be a surprise if I could get it to 4ghz for him...

*Gotta get to 3ghz







on my Quad!!*


----------



## deepblue007

Dude, I upgraded from a Q6600. It's a cheap upgrade for awesome power.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

where would i change the tiing to 2t is it right below the 4-4-4-12 settings because if i change the cycle perclock or watever it is called to two it will load my desktop and restart again...i am going to check the kit # now


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deepblue007* 
Dude, I upgraded from a Q6600. It's a cheap upgrade for awesome power.

LOL, I purchased the quad for crunching. I compile Day of Defeat Source maps, and run so many programs at once it gets to be headache. But i know from my positition if I wanted speed I would so go with the E8400. Rock on man!! And good luck.

P.S. Can i have your old quad?


----------



## deepblue007

Mr.Q:

I also had my Q6600 overclocked to 3GHz (1333FSB) with the same gigabyte 3D water coolling rig. Mine stopped working when I put in 4 x 1GB Kinston low latency RAM boards, and the RAM always ran at 667MHz (no matter what I tried). When I went back to just 2 x 1GB boards, the speed went up again no problem. Eventually I solved the problem by selling my 4 x 1GB low latency boards, and replacing with 2 x 2GB Transcend boards which are giving much better performance and stability. I know you're only running 2 x 1GB boards, but it's just something to look out for. I've always had problems with ram boards on this MB, no matter how good the quality (my first 2 sets were both kingston HyperX and valueram).


----------



## JerseyDubbin

http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820146565 is what i have...part number and everything matches up to first kit you posted...still getting all sorts of memory read/write erros

EDIT: i am still getting a ****load of errors running memtest and ubuntu won't load







...i kinda feel like the mem is fried which sucks bc this is my computer at college


----------



## deepblue007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
P.S. Can i have your old quad?









Sorry mate I sold it


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


where would i change the tiing to 2t is it right below the 4-4-4-12 settings because if i change the cycle perclock or watever it is called to two it will load my desktop and restart again...i am going to check the kit # now


2T is the fifth memory timing setting in the BIOS, yes. It can be set to 1T, 2T, or Auto. Set it to 2T. Make sure the first four timings are manually set to 4-4-4-12, in that order. The remaining timings can be left alone.

Also, manually set the vdimm to 2.18V. Then set the RAM clock to 800MHz, and leave your CPU FSB at stock.

If you still have trouble, move the RAM to the other pair of slots.

If you still have trouble, take one stick out.

If you still have trouble, switch to the other single stick.

If you still have trouble, try each stick in turn in all of the slots until you find one that works.

If you still have trouble, RMA the RAM.

If you have trouble with the replacement RAM, RMA the board. Of course if you've gotten to this point you're screaming bloody murder.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Is your RAM one of these?

Part #: BL2KIT12864AA804 • DDR2 PC2-6400 • 4-4-4-12 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR2-800 • 2.2V • SLI-Ready •

Part #: BL2KIT12864AL804 • DDR2 PC2-6400 • 4-4-4-12 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR2-800 • 2.2V • SLI-Ready •

Part #: CT2KIT12864AA800 • DDR2 PC2-6400 • CL=6 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR2-800 • 1.8V •

If the part # doesn't match one of those 3, your RAM hasn't tested stable in the board and it may just never work properly in this board. If it _is_ one of those the first question I have is: did you manually set the timings (i.e. 4-4-4-12-2T) in the BIOS? If you didn't, that's the #1 cause of instability on this board. If you did, make sure you manually set the voltage to stock as well. If you've done all that and it's still not working and your RAM is one of the kits I posted above, something is seriously wrong. Maybe try the other pair of slots, and if that doesn't work then RMA the RAM....

I have these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148076

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin* 
where would i change the tiing to 2t is it right below the 4-4-4-12 settings because if i change the cycle perclock or watever it is called to two it will load my desktop and restart again...i am going to check the kit # now

Yes the "2T" setting is below the 12. You can't miss it since you only have the option of 1, 2, or Auto.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
LOL, I purchased the quad for crunching. I compile Day of Defeat Source maps, and run so many programs at once it gets to be headache. But i know from my positition if I wanted speed I would so go with the E8400. Rock on man!! And good luck.

P.S. Can i have your old quad?









Hey







Another OCN Cruncher.


----------



## MrQ

Dang it!!!









I tried again on the 3ghz and I still cannot boot into windows. I need better ram that I can identify the latency on. THis stuff is good, but not for OCing. Any ideas on a better set of ram? I was looking at the kingston hyperx. Kingston is what I have always used and has proven to be very stable.

Ravin: I tried all your setup options and no go. The best i got on ram timings was 5-5-5-18 or 23 even went 6-6-6. No go. But I can't boot into windows on anything besides default.
























CPU-Z puts my timings at 5-5-5-31-23-2T. I have never seen timings like that.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

alright well i tried everything and no dice so i am sending in the RMA today. God this is annoying.

hte board seems fine bc last time the board went and it would freeze up after trying to save and edit bios settings. Everything posts fine etc i just can't keep it stable. The computer will randomly restart/close programs etc.

Plus it ruined my linux! lol bastards


----------



## Atticus5783

What is a normal MB temp? I just put mine together today with no overclocking or anything and with the software that came with the motherboard it says its at around 38 degrees idle


----------



## MrQ

That s actually very normal. The NB gets quite hot anyway and it adds to the temps. Also I guess you are using PC Probe II. Thats a piece of garbage and it would be better to find another temp monitor. I use core temp for my processor and gpu-z for my gpu.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Dang it!!!









I tried again on the 3ghz and I still cannot boot into windows. I need better ram that I can identify the latency on. THis stuff is good, but not for OCing. Any ideas on a better set of ram? I was looking at the kingston hyperx. Kingston is what I have always used and has proven to be very stable.

Ravin: I tried all your setup options and no go. The best i got on ram timings was 5-5-5-18 or 23 even went 6-6-6. No go. But I can't boot into windows on anything besides default.
























CPU-Z puts my timings at 5-5-5-31-23-2T. I have never seen timings like that.



My advice would be to stay away from Kingston RAM if you're OCing. The 2 GB kit I have has a $10 instant and a $40 mail-in rebate until tommorow. So you can get for $50 a kit I payed something like $300 for a year ago. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna order it myself today so I'll have 4x1GB. Link is here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145168

I've never had trouble with this RAM. At stock speeds I got the timings down to 4-3-3-1, and it'll run at 1T no trouble (if the MCH can handle it, that is). I also managed to get it up to 1066MHz at 5-4-4-3 timings.


----------



## PeterMC4

Hi people, boy are ther alot of pages in this thread! Saw somethign aroudn pg 500 withmy same system specs but I still can't figure out how to fix things just to get to STOCK speeds.[although the cpu seems like it should crank a little more.







]

I'm currently freezing in the BIOS screen right after the words INTEL CPU is identified, but before it says [2 Cores] and before my usb keyboard activates.
USb stuff controlled by the 5volt?
Once I get into windows XP as I am now, everythign is normal until the end of the day when I shut down. I'm runnign the 4 GBram at 800 MHZ with no apparent heat issues. [speed fan says its pretty normal afaik]
I have tested and returned ram, and last wk. the video card in hopes it was that Nvidia issue, but using my emergency nvidia 6200 piece o' poop video card in there now I still have these problems.
Started when I only had 2 GB ram in here and added the Seagate Sata II HDD.
I just purchased the mobo, ram and cpu last Nov., PSU from last april had been fine with previous AMD setup.
Anyone have any tips ? It seems I cant' nail down the one or two things I need to to boot consistently..
Thanks for any infos.


----------



## MrQ

I have looked at corsair? What about OCZ or Buffalo? I am just trying to get the best deal and idea possible.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Hi people, boy are ther alot of pages in this thread! Saw somethign aroudn pg 500 withmy same system specs but I still can't figure out how to fix things just to get to STOCK speeds.[although the cpu seems like it should crank a little more.







]

I'm currently freezing in the BIOS screen right after the words INTEL CPU is identified, but before it says [2 Cores] and before my usb keyboard activates.
USb stuff controlled by the 5volt?
Once I get into windows XP as I am now, everythign is normal until the end of the day when I shut down. I'm runnign the 4 GBram at 800 MHZ with no apparent heat issues. [speed fan says its pretty normal afaik]
I have tested and returned ram, and last wk. the video card in hopes it was that Nvidia issue, but using my emergency nvidia 6200 piece o' poop video card in there now I still have these problems.
Started when I only had 2 GB ram in here and added the Seagate Sata II HDD.
I just purchased the mobo, ram and cpu last Nov., PSU from last april had been fine with previous AMD setup.
Anyone have any tips ? It seems I cant' nail down the one or two things I need to to boot consistently..
Thanks for any infos.











Try starting up with only 1 gb of ram. If its still won't boot properly switch it in between slots. Until it boots properly.

My guess is is that you will have to set your ram timings manually. If you can get into your bios go Advanced > Chipset > Memory Timings and put your timings in from top to bottom, don't deal with the advanced section.


----------



## PeterMC4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*










Try starting up with only 1 gb of ram. If its still won't boot properly switch it in between slots. Until it boots properly.

My guess is is that you will have to set your ram timings manually. If you can get into your bios go Advanced > Chipset > Memory Timings and put your timings in from top to bottom, don't deal with the advanced section.


yeah I guess I have to pull out that 2nd 2 gb kit, Was hoping something I 've been attempting was glaringly wrong.
I've got ram set manually, extra intel stuff off, Unlinked mode , etc.
- been gradually upping volts to things but it seems to just not like booting as once i'm in Windows 4 GB or 2 GB, 800 mhz or 667 still seem to be here working properly.

Could I be hanging because of my usb keyboard and what voltage it gets [or doesn't?] does USB get it's juice from the +5v?








Will remove 2 GB after I finish my work day







thanks for the input..


----------



## MrQ

I doubt if the keyboard is the issue. I have a USB keyboard and everthing boots up fine. I think the USB garners 3.3 volts. not 5.


----------



## OCfrostmage

Edit2: IMO if you are going 45nm, wait for Nehalem with its integrated MCH. I think all P35/X38 boards will support the current 45nm chips, so if you really want a Penryn/Wolfdale you are safe to upgrade there.

actually i love my wolfdale on this board.. i overclocked it to 4 ghz stable.. backed it off to 3.6 for everyday use. My core voltage is only 1.392V and my FSB is at 1600mhz. Very stable and runs super cool 33 deg celsius.

I wouldnt go buying another board just for a wolfdale unless u got money to burn. This combo I am running is hella fast and smoked some of the quad core's in benchmarks in everest. If you added a cooling system(Im running stock air) OMG!!! im sure i could get 4.4 GHZ stable.

Anyway my 2 cents....

peace oc


----------



## MrQ

LOL if i had money to burn....If i wanted speed i could have gotten the e6850, but i got the quad for torque (aka: processing oomph). I'm sold on them for now. I have a customer who wanted the e8400 and when I built it into the system it was lightening fast.

Best of both worlds you might say...


----------



## Some Noob

Hi guys just got a second 8800gt golden sample overclocked edition the thing is sooooo bib it blocks my sata ports ( All Of Them ) have bought a few right angle connectors but it is useless. Havnt budgeted for a new mobo as well. Any ideas it fits in when no connectors on the sata. Can you get really small connectors ?


----------



## marsey99

^^^unlucky bro, the sata placment is a pita on this mobo.

other news, i have fitted a ifx-14/10 to mine and it has made my temps plumet compared to my frezzer pro. it is massive tho and it does block access to the 5v socket and if you have large ram in your first slot you might have some clearence issues too.


----------



## P1MP1NJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Some Noob* 
Hi guys just got a second 8800gt golden sample overclocked edition the thing is sooooo bib it blocks my sata ports ( All Of Them ) have bought a few right angle connectors but it is useless. Havnt budgeted for a new mobo as well. Any ideas it fits in when no connectors on the sata. Can you get really small connectors ?

did you try using the last SATA port? and are you sure it blocks? because the 8800GT is only single slot and you should be able to get to the ports







but if you use the 4th sata port it should fit because your card shouldn't be that long and then you can just change the setting in the bios and you should be good. When I run sli 8800 ultras this is definitely not the mobo I will be using haha


----------



## PeterMC4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I doubt if the keyboard is the issue. I have a USB keyboard and everthing boots up fine. I think the USB garners 3.3 volts. not 5.


Thanks ! that was always a question in the back of my mind, as I had heard about some razer mouse issues that needed a bios to fix them, and this keyboard is a microsoft/razer combo ..shiny leds and 2 usb ports etc.








Anyone else experiene this?:
I have recently got completely wrong timings showing in cpu-z , too even though everything was set in bios. They do match the JEDEC # 2 specs shown onteh SPD tab of *CPU Z*, for whatever that is worth.
Pulled out that 2nd 2 GB kit -been playing the switch slots game, but this happens randomly.

It also _now_ shows the correct timing. freaky weird . I am currently notched up a step in the ram and NB voltage although I really wished I could have some enhanced result besides just being able to boot


----------



## MrQ

I am glad you were able to get it to work. And yes there is a problem with the copperhead mouse and this board. Dunno why exactly. I suggest updating the BIOS to anything above 801.


----------



## PeterMC4

Yeah I dont have that _mouse _but the usb keyboard is same mfg -made me think it might be an issue at some point. 
Im using last weeks 0901 bios , still haveing boot up freezeing- though Ram Guy at Corsair is helping me go through the list of what I could have borked or what IS borked without my help








thanks again


----------



## Svven

Hi

Say i get myself the zalman 9700 nt and overcolck my 6600q to 2.8 GHz (If i get it right and don't blowup some thing) will i see 'n big differance in performance?


----------



## MrQ

Two things set up performance. 1. FSB 2. Memory Size. If you can change one of those things there will be a performance increase, whether you will see it or not depends on your setup. When I had my Quad OC'ed that far I couldn't really tell much of a difference. Your experience may be different. Its also unlikely you will blow anything up with a Zalma n9700 on there. Also word to the wise. Plant a fan or something on that North Bridge. That thing gives off enough heat for satellites in space to pick up.


----------



## Ghostkilla

ok ive seen and heard of the Blue screen of death but anyone ever experienced the black screen of death? I havent changed any programs, was just playin around with oc settings in bios and I booted it up, all went well but after xp boots I can see my mouse and my icons but everything else is blacked out. computer runs anf doesnt cut off either. does the same in safe mode. Anyone? it shows the loading screens and bios just fine, only messes up when windows is loaded up. I can hear the music and everything just everything but my icons are black now.


----------



## mcogan10

clear your bios by taking out the small round battery in the motherboard, leaving it out for about two minutes, then pop it back in. this usually isnt how it looks, but do it anyway.


----------



## MrQ

Uhoh. Umm, you know it might be just the right time to clean out the ole' XP. I had a similar issue. You are going to have to install a fresh copy of windows, or run it over the initial installation to fix the problem. There may be another answer, but this is the one I know.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


clear your bios by taking out the small round battery in the motherboard, leaving it out for about two minutes, then pop it back in. this usually isnt how it looks, but do it anyway.



Its not hanging up, i can get into bios and load default. You think that will help even if I can do all that?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Uhoh. Umm, you know it might be just the right time to clean out the ole' XP. I had a similar issue. You are going to have to install a fresh copy of windows, or run it over the initial installation to fix the problem. There may be another answer, but this is the one I know.



I take it youve had this issue? ALl I did was load bios version 0901 and started oc settings from scratch at 533mhz in sync mode. got up to 1500/750 and my windows theme on the bar at the bottom looked like classic mode. I rebooted and it went black then. rebooted again and again and it stays black so I went into bios and loaded efault settings and still blacked out.


----------



## MrQ

Exactly. The exact same issue. Your Windows got screwed up. Reloading is probably your best option.


----------



## Ghostkilla

oh forgot to ask what seems to be the best bios version to use on these boards?


----------



## MrQ

I use 803. A lot of people say 608 is the best for overclocking. 803 is the best for recovering from a BIOS oc error.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I use 803. A lot of people say 608 is the best for overclocking. 803 is the best for recovering from a BIOS oc error.



Yeah I just found 0901 on asus's site today so I figured I would try that. I cant seem to get back to my 3.2ghz so I may go back with the 0608.


----------



## MrQ

Use a usb don't do it in windows if you are downgrading.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Use a usb don't do it in windows if you are downgrading.



i USUALLY do it in Bios. I got a flash drive though. Looks like I gotta redo windows first though. Ill keep updating. reps for your help.


----------



## MrQ

No problem. Glad to help. Thats what this place is for.


----------



## Ghostkilla

re-installed windows and all is well. Im just guessing my drivers or something got corrupted. How Im not sure but im gonna go back to 0608 bios and reload my drivers and try this again.


----------



## Ghostkilla

also what chipset drivers are you guys runnin? nvidia or asus and what version?


----------



## MrQ

THis is a P5N-E SLI thread. The lates Nvidia 650i drivers all the way.

Glad you got ure comp workin.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


THis is a P5N-E SLI thread. The lates Nvidia 650i drivers all the way.

Glad you got ure comp workin.



OK another question, I was getting weird issues installing these nvidia drivers the last go around. Says on their site to install sp2 prior to installing these drivers. How do I get SP2 since I gotta install the chipset drivers to get the internet working? lol


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Hi, everyone!

Hey, I was just offered this ASUS mobo for $85 shipped. I'm currently keeping a NewEgg Wish List which has the Gigabyte DS3L on it. The CPU I'm looking at is the e2180.

First, I just read a review on the DS3L that it doesn't allow detailed memory timing changes, but the P5N-E does. Awesome.

But then I see that the northbridge needs a fan on it. Well, ok, that's fine because I'm looking at the Cooler Master 690. There's a fan there.







Then I noticed in the pic that the Southbridge is naked!







But the DS3L's sb is hs'd!

And then I got more concerned when I saw that this P5N is quite picky about memory: I'm looking at the mushkin HP 2GB (dual-channel). Are they compatible?

And as for the cooling, I am just going to assume that the answer is yes for this: Is the Zerotherm Nirvana incompatible being that it's not on the compatibility list?

I'm not a hardcore gamer, nor am I really much of a gamer (ok, YET, since I still have my sig rig and nothing else. I don't know WHAT will happen to me when I finally build and start using the new system I'm creating on NewEgg). The most demanding game I have is Tron 2.0, and I'm really looking forward to playing it on its highest settings.









I'm also looking to oc as high as I can just for something to do (and also to increase the value!). When I learned that I could manually adjust the memory timings, I smiled!

Also, how does the DS3L and the P5N-E compare for somebody who will likely never use SLI? Or let me just say that I'll be surprised if I find myself using it.







I don't even own a gaming console. Does a clear Gameboy count?









Whew, lots of questions, but I want to avoid as many mistake-purchases as I can, if that makes sense.


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Oh. Nevermind. There are 2 PCI 8x, and not one PCI 16x. I guess the choice is obvious, huh?







DS3L for me, personally. Wow, I'm sleepy. Sorry 'bout that.


----------



## MrQ

Cram the gigabyte, Cheese. Asus is the way to go on overclocking Duo's. Now Quads, thats a different story altogether.

The NB does get very hot when it comes to overclocking so a fan or better heatsink is preferred. As for the SB being without a hs. I mean come on all it does is manage peripherals so if it actually is hot enough to have a heat sink on it then you in trouble.

Memory wise, it seems, corsair and kingston are some of the best choices on this board. You can get OCZ and Crucial but if you read a few posts back, this guy was having so much trouble with them.

Now the heatsink. You have to watch out for a couple of things on this board when placing stuff like that. Is it going to hit the NB heatsink and is it going to hit the memory. The third is if it will even fit in your case.

As for not being a gamer, you'll come around.









I also build computers. If you want to consider that alternative, even if its not me, e-mail me at [email protected].


----------



## MrQ

Quote:

Oh. Nevermind. There are 2 PCI 8x, and not one PCI 16x. I guess the choice is obvious, huh?







DS3L for me, personally. Wow, I'm sleepy. Sorry 'bout that.
It doesn't matter, if you are just going to use one card the ports will run at 16x. If you ran SLI they would run 8x apiece though a lot of people say it wouldn't make a difference.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:

OK another question, I was getting weird issues installing these nvidia drivers the last go around. Says on their site to install sp2 prior to installing these drivers. How do I get SP2 since I gotta install the chipset drivers to get the internet working? lol
Here is the link to SP2 it will check whether your OS is legit then download. http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...5-9e368d3cdb5a


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Thank you, MrQ!

So, how about the P5N-E in a CM 690 with the e2180 cooled by the Zerotherm Nirvana? Has anyone tried that? And just how tight of a fit IS the Tuniq Tower?

Both of these will fit in the 690.

And as for the NB, will the side fan on the stock cooling on the CM 690 be good enough since I'm not a hard core gamer? Like I said, the most demanding game I own and am looking forward to playing is Tron 2.0. Oh, and again, there's no telling WHAT will happen to me once I start feeling the power of this new rig that I'm gonna get.

As for the mushkin HP 2GB dual-channel, has anyone tried that with success? Also, what seems to be the best besides Corsair and Kingston? I'm looking for memory that uses the Micron IC, and I have been hearing a lot of bad things about the Corsair lately, and I haven't heard a single thing on here yet about Kingston. I mean, hey, I thought Kingston was the best, alongside PNY. But that was like 7-8 years ago.


----------



## Ghostkilla

i remember the problem with this now. I install the latest nvidia chipset drivers and everytime my system tries to boot into windows i get a black screen and windows never loads. Anyone had to deal with this yet? This is why I ran with the old asus chipset drivers. I installed SP2 prior then rebooted and then installed the nvidia 8.43 chipset drivers for x64 which is what im runnin. I can never get it to finish loading windows with these chipset drivers.
it shows the x64 logo screen with the black background and after that nothing. never makes it to the sign in page. Oh and it also boots just fine in safe mode but wont boot in regular mode.

added i unsinstall the chipset drivers and clean with DC and still cant boot into windows.

Just curious who all uses nforce 8.43 chipset drivers on the same board and how many of you have problems and how many of you run x64? Im curious to see if this is a xp issue or a nvidia issue.


----------



## Atticus5783

I have a question my LAN connection seems to be really slow through the onboard LAN downloads at around 200KBs but on my laptop same wired connection im getting aroun 1.5MBs. Are there any updated drivers for the LAN that anyone knows of?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Atticus5783*


I have a question my LAN connection seems to be really slow through the onboard LAN downloads at around 200KBs but on my laptop same wired connection im getting aroun 1.5MBs. Are there any updated drivers for the LAN that anyone knows of?


what chipset drivers are you using?


----------



## Ghostkilla

well damn, tried to downgrade to 0608 using a flash drive and it says file ot suitable for system.


----------



## Atticus5783

I wanna say V826? does that sound about right? I just downloaded them off ASUS.com like 2 days ago and BIOs 0901


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Atticus5783*


I wanna say V826? does that sound about right? I just downloaded them off ASUS.com like 2 days ago and BIOs 0901



ok that sounds like asus chipset drivers which I know work for my onboard network controller and ive never had an issue.


----------



## Atticus5783

yes I mean its working its just a ton slower than my other computer. I have tried disconnecting all but the one and stays about the same.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Atticus5783*


yes I mean its working its just a ton slower than my other computer. I have tried disconnecting all but the one and stays about the same.



not sure, make sure the cable you are using is a fast one, check your settings in bios, make sure you have nothing else stealing bandwidth. I run 2 pc's in a wired network for gaming and have no issued with those drivers you mentioned. Gotta be something in the hardware setup or hardware. Any errors in device manager?


----------



## Atticus5783

What could be stealing bandwith from bios?


----------



## MrQ

Woah. That sounds like a Hardware issue if you are for sure that it isn't your internet. Updating the BIOS might help, but I dunno. Thats weird. Also check the cable you use for connecting to your PC.


----------



## Atticus5783

Yea I jsut updated BIOs to 0901 and tried about 3 differ cables =/ I just cant think of anything that would be stealing bandwitdh as all my other computers download at 1.2-1.5MBs even if all of them are connected and downloading. Could it be something internal to this computer that is drawing just its connection down?


----------



## MrQ

How about reloading windows and reinstalling drivers?


----------



## Atticus5783

yea I did that too as I just got a new hard drive and it was doing it before and is still doing it.


----------



## MrQ

k let us know how it goes.


----------



## scottk

For those who don't get the newegg emails, good deals on memory and storage this week! $29 for 2G corsair xms2 ddr2 800 or 70 for 2G kingston hyper x ddr2 1066.

newegg deals


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

That was random. Try this forum, Scott. It's the correct context:

Online Deals (located here on OCN).


----------



## MrQ

Thanks for the info tho!!


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *5CheeseLasagna*


That was random. Try this forum, Scott. It's the correct context:

Online Deals (located here on OCN).


LOL - yeah I guess.

Actually I think it was one of your earlier posts made me think to post it here







. Weren't you building a wish list newegg system? Someone was so I fgured I'd let them / everyone know about the specials. If that's improper for this thread sorry


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Oh, I just thought you were looking for a good and busy place to post that. My bad.

Yeah, I'm the new egg guy.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *5CheeseLasagna*


Oh, I just thought you were looking for a good and busy place to post that. My bad.

Yeah, I'm the new egg guy.










haha - nope not a newegg spammer

Just to make this remotley on topic, I use/like those XMS2 memory modules, ESPECIALLY at that price but mine won't overclock at all! Not even to 825, so if you think you might want to push a 1:1 ratio anywhere over 1600 fsb don't get these.


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Speaking of NewEgg, here's why I came back to this thread. I just read a review on NewEgg (yeah, I know. Slap me!) on these mushkins HP's that I'm looking at, and here's what I saw:

naviscan

Tech Level: somewhat high Ownership: 1 month to 1 year 3/29/2007 12:56:26 PM




































*Better than OCZ, Corsair on NVidia 650i Chipset MoBo!*

*Pros:* It worked straight from the package - provided you know what you're doing. Allows for OC-ing, within safe limits! Replaced my OCZ ram, that's not compatible with Asus ""P5N-E SLI"" MoBo (Nvidia Nforce 650i).

*Cons:* None, if you read the mem settings printed on sticks!

*Other Thoughts:* Best mem timings so far, at 4-5-4-11 [2 clocks], solid stable, passed one night of Memtest86+ torture! Not stable for OC-ing to CMD=1T.

Prior to seeing this, I was worried that I'd have to spend more time looking for RAM. Now, if you guys know for sure that there is better RAM as compared to the mushkins for about the same price (not exceeding $60 by too much! The budget is very tight now), then let me know. As for MIR's and such, they may not apply as I can't really buy anything until around April. Well, actually, would I end up paying more in shipping if I bought like a couple components at a time instead of all at once?

But based on this review, even though it's old, I can go with this mobo and this memory and have no problems. Like I said, mcogan is offering this mobo to me for $85 shipped.

So now all I need to know is will I have any problems using the ZEROtherm Nirvana 120 on the P5N-E?


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


haha - nope not a newegg spammer

Just to make this remotley on topic, I use/like those XMS2 memory modules, ESPECIALLY at that price but mine won't overclock at all! Not even to 825, so if you think you might want to push a 1:1 ratio anywhere over 1600 fsb don't get these.


Wow, I just read a review about those... Maybe these reviews aren't to be ignored as much as everyone here is telling me:

Utnorris

Tech Level: high Ownership: 1 day to 1 week
This user purchased this item from Newegg.com 2/8/2008 6:43:04 AM




































*Fantastic Ram*

*Pros:* Great Ram. Easy to overclock. Great price. Handles 2.1 voltage easily for overclocking. I am currently running at 1080mhz without even the hint of a hiccup. I haven't tried any timings past SPD, but still. From my research it uses the same chips that Micron and Crucial use, not sure of the name though, but they are supposed to be some of the best chips for overclocking and reliabilty.

*Cons:* None.

*Other Thoughts:* I had two different types of Corsair ram that both went bad after overclocking. One was the XMS2 6400 2gb kit and the other was the other was the step up, the DHX series. Both were fine until I started overclocking them to 900mhz at which point both sets eventually went bad. If you are not OC'ing then they are great for the money, otherwise stick to Mushkin, crucial or one of the better brands.

I know, slap me for going by a newegg review.


----------



## marsey99

love the fact that ocz stix arent compatible with this mobo, shh dont say it too loud mine might stop working.


----------



## Crazysamzebian

I've just recently gotten an Asus P5n-E sli motherboard, because I used to have a Gigabyte GA-P965-DQ6 (rev 2) motherboard with 2 Nvidia 8600 GTS's Superclocked, but then I immediately realized the Gigabyte didn't support SLI, so I finally upgraded 2 weeks ago. My RAM is 4 Gigs of Corsair XMS2 SLI supported DDR2 800, and my processor is a C2duo e6600 with a scythe Ninja cooler (will cool it awesomely during an overclock, right??), and my question is what should I do to overclock? I tried using some built-in Asus AI overclocking crap that didn't work, my system would hang during post and so I had to clear the Cmos, unlike what Asus says (which is that the board will automatically reset the Cmos if at the Post screen it hangs, which doesn't always work for me). Anyways, I'm a newb to overclocking, but I was wondering if you guys could help me get from 2.4 Ghz to around 3-3.2 Ghz?? thx.

BTW, this is my first post here. I hope I posted this in the right section.


----------



## mcogan10

welcome! I've had a good amount of experience with this board, so ill try to help you out. First what you should do (this is what I always do), is change the FSB in the jumperfree settings tab to 300, and put the ram at stock speeds and timings. If this doesnt work, your computer wont "post", which means it wont load windows or anything. Usually you can just restart and go back into the bios and add more vcore (CPU voltage) to make it more stable, but if you cant get back into the bios you have to manually remove a small round silver battery from the motherboard, leave it out for a couple minutes, then pop it back in and restart. From there, adjust your vcore higher so that you should have a stable overclock. stock voltages range from 1.2-1.35 volts, and to get to 2.7ghz with a 300fsb you should only need about 1.25-1.28 volts if you have a decent chip...welcome to OCN!

BTW under no circumstances should you EVER exceed 1.5v in vcore.


----------



## Crazysamzebian

I know what posting is, and I know how to clear my CMOS (I'm not a newb to pc's, just overclocking) I had to clear my cmos 3 times last night when I first tried to overclock the damn thing, I couldn't get it to post after I used the AI overclock options (I guess they're like auto-overclocking settings, didn't work). FOr the voltages, I should increase it how much initially, I don't want to blow my CPU?


----------



## mcogan10

try these settings first:
FSB: 300
memory stuff: stock timings and voltage and stock speed
voltage: stock memory voltage, 1.2-1.3 northbridge voltage, 1.28 cpu voltage.

use manual settings, Not AI overclock.
also disable speedstep (EIST) and C1E


----------



## Crazysamzebian

K, I'm rebooting right now to try those settings, but before I reboot, should I upgrade my BIOS, I have the version 0803

Crap, I just realized I'm uploading a youtube vid, so I'll have to wait on rebooting. Might as well do the Bios update now then...


----------



## mcogan10

you probably should, but its not needed. Just try those settings before anything else.


----------



## Crazysamzebian

I'm gunna have to wait for my youtube vid to finish uploading (it's at about 40%, this may take a while).... Anyways, I tried to start the BIOS update in the ASUS update utility (worked before), but now it's telling me ... Never mind, it's working now. I'm gunna flash now. (crossing fingers (wait, I'm not a Christian, why 'cross' fingers??))


----------



## Crazysamzebian

YES it worked without screwing up! anyways, I've still got to wait on that vid, so I probably won't be able to change any settings for like an hour.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


OK another question, I was getting weird issues installing these nvidia drivers the last go around. Says on their site to install sp2 prior to installing these drivers. How do I get SP2 since I gotta install the chipset drivers to get the internet working? lol


I have x64 and I've only run the drivers Asus provided with the board. Will other drivers be better? I've only used these and they seem fine.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Crazysamzebian*


I'm gunna have to wait for my youtube vid to finish uploading (it's at about 40%, this may take a while).... Anyways, I tried to start the BIOS update in the ASUS update utility (worked before), but now it's telling me ... Never mind, it's working now. I'm gunna flash now. (crossing fingers (wait, I'm not a Christian, why 'cross' fingers??))


lol...I was really worried when I flashed the BIOS in windows...the pc froze for like 30 seconds







, and then it finally started.


----------



## Crazysamzebian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


you probably should, but its not needed. Just try those settings before anything else.


Yea, So anyways, here is what I did. I changed my FSB from 1066 to 1366 (I assumed when you meant put FSB at 300, you meant add 300 to my stock FSB)

My voltages are 1.3 volts on the northbridge, and 1.28 volts for the CPU. Now, in the my computer properties tab of vista, it says I'm chugging my CPU at 3.07 Ghz, but in CPU-Z it says my core speed is 2733.6 Mhz. Also, my CPU normally has an X9 multiplier, but I saw that you had urs set to 8x, so I did the same (seeing as we have the same boards and similar CPU's). Anyways, I was wondering if I can go farther, because my CPU is only 37 Celcius, which is 4 degrees less than before I rebooted (odd, isn't that... maybe it has to do with my case being open and all)

Also, I think the reason my pc didn't post after I did those settings had to do with my ram, so I removed 1GB out of my 4GB. DOes this stick even matter, since vista only recognizes 3GB under 32 bit mode, so should I even keep this stick in there???

Lastly, if I can improve the speed, I won't be able to for another 5-6 hours, I'm backing up my mom's old nearly-dead hard drive to a new one before her install is screwed up, so I won't be able to change any new settings for a few hours.


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

[answered]


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I have x64 and I've only run the drivers Asus provided with the board. Will other drivers be better? I've only used these and they seem fine.

lol...I was really worried when I flashed the BIOS in windows...the pc froze for like 30 seconds







, and then it finally started.


What chipset drivers do you use? Ive had bad experience with the nvidia nforce 8.43 drivers. Wont even load windows after install and have to reinstall windows sometimes to get past it. I have to run the asus drivers.


----------



## Atticus5783

Where in bios can I setup so if I get a blue screen it doesnt auto reboot?


----------



## Armend

just wanna know if this is what you guys are getting and if its any good?

also i cant even oc like 1mhz lmao i updated to 1203 bios i havent tried with it scared because you have to manually clear the cmos


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


What chipset drivers do you use? Ive had bad experience with the nvidia nforce 8.43 drivers. Wont even load windows after install and have to reinstall windows sometimes to get past it. I have to run the asus drivers.


Not sure, just the one's that came with the board.


----------



## DominationPB

Hi, I should have read up on it a bit before I ordered but I didn't and now I have a p5n-e sli and a q6600 processor, I was wondering what the optimal settings are for overclocking this combo?
Any info would be great.


----------



## Atticus5783

I have about had it with this board lol. anytime I do anything it restarts itself no error message just reset. Sometimes it gives a blue screen but not enough time to read anything at all off it


----------



## Armend

on my bios it says sli memory detected - disabled and if i scroll through the menu it says 1% oc 2% so on what does this exactly do?


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Hi, I should have read up on it a bit before I ordered but I didn't and now I have a p5n-e sli and a q6600 processor, I was wondering what the optimal settings are for overclocking this combo? 
Any info would be great.

















Click the Intel Q6600 and ASUS P5N-E SLI in my sig and there is a forum dedicated to just that.

Quote:



I have about had it with this board lol. anytime I do anything it restarts itself no error message just reset. Sometimes it gives a blue screen but not enough time to read anything at all off it


Your memory appears to be ok, but have you removed all sticks but one and tried to start that way, because I am reading that you are trying 4gb on start up?

Quote:



on my bios it says sli memory detected - disabled and if i scroll through the menu it says 1% oc 2% so on what does this exactly do?


SLI memory is part of the EPP (Enhanced Performance Profiles) for your memory. Basically it takes the guess work out of ocing your memory if you have SLI.


----------



## Ravin

My old P5N-E SLI has found a new home at my friend's house, and has made good friends with a new 9600GT 512mb. See my Maximus overhaul log for details.


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


well damn, tried to downgrade to 0608 using a flash drive and it says file ot suitable for system.


For those of you that are running a higher bios there is a way of downgrading as the ASUS update tool will fail on you if you try. Basically download a bootable CD from Bootdisk.com here and extract the ISO from the zip. Open the ISO with something like MagicISO or UltraISO and copy the awdflash.exe and the bios#.bin file into the image and burn the CD. Reboot the computer and boot off the CD and it will drop you to a dos prompt that tells you what number your CD drive is using (in my case it was R:\\). Type r: to go to the CD drive and then type awdflash bios#.bin /f to start the bios install. Click N to save the previous bios and Y to start the flash.

I've done this a number of times to go up and down from all of the bios versions without a problem.

I have my Q6600 running at 3.0Ghz stable on the P5N-E and you can find my settings from the link in MrQ's signature. For me it was important that I ran bios 0608 to achieve the overclock as otherwise it wouldn't work.


----------



## MrQ

What would be really cool is if you could write a FAQ on it for OCN.


----------



## diddler1979

I'll try giving you a complete set of pictures tonight once I get home MrQ.


----------



## MrQ

That would be great.


----------



## Atticus5783

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Your memory appears to be ok, but have you removed all sticks but one and tried to start that way, because I am reading that you are trying 4gb on start up?

I have and now it just restarts it self right after posting. Sometimes comes up to windows didnt shut down correctly and options safe mode normal blah blah but no matter what I select it just restarts and back to the samething. I also tried to put my windows disk in to repair windows and it boots the CD to wear it tries to find system specs then restarts.

EDIT: This is pretty much what my last system did to me that caused me to buy all the new parts the only thing in the system that is the same is the Case and the CD-Rom drive. Could either of these be the problem?


----------



## MrQ

Ok, this has got to be a dumb question, but next time in the bios check your CPU temps. I mean its probably not the issue but its worth checking out. You may need to switch that single stick around in the 4 slots as well.

Hope this helps.


----------



## diddler1979

What bios version you running Atticus5783?


----------



## Atticus5783

Im using 0901 I think it is the newest one on ASUS website and my CPU temp in BIOs is 33C and M/B is 30C. I cant get into windows I cant repair/reinstall windows. I'm about to return all the parts and buy a compaq =P


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Atticus5783* 
Im using 0901 I think it is the newest one on ASUS website and my CPU temp in BIOs is 33C and M/B is 30C.

When I tried overclocking my Q6600 on the P5N-E it would fail everytime at bios post or windows boot until I went back to bios 0608.

I will be posting a complete breakdown in a few hours with my guide to getting your motherboard back to older bios revisions.


----------



## Atticus5783

Quote:


Originally Posted by *diddler1979* 
When I tried overclocking my Q6600 on the P5N-E it would fail everytime at bios post or windows boot until I went back to bios 0608.

I will be posting a complete breakdown in a few hours with my guide to getting your motherboard back to older bios revisions.

Is there a way to get BIO back with out a floppy drive from outside windows?


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Atticus5783* 
Is there a way to get BIO back with out a floppy drive from outside windows?

Sure is and I'll post it all soon....promise.


----------



## Atticus5783

Quote:


Originally Posted by *diddler1979* 
Sure is and I'll post it all soon....promise.









Awesome ill have ot check it out tomorrow as I have to go to work in like an hour or so =P thanks for the help and I hope to god that helps hehe


----------



## diddler1979

Disclaimer: The following information is passed on with best intentions but I cannot guarantee that there is no risk involved with changing your bios revision or overclocking your system. You do so at your own risk. All of this comes from successfully overclocking my Q6600 G0 stepping to 3.0Ghz on my Asus P5N-E.

1 - How to flash your Asus P5N-E

Despite what you may read on other forums, it is possible to install any bios version on the P5N-E when you require. I have had 0703 -> 0803 -> 0608 -> 0901 -> 0608 throughout my time with the P5N-E. First off forget about using the Asus Update tool in Windows as it will probably not let you go down to a previous bios than the one you currently use if required. I prefer to create a bootable CD image as it allows me to store multiple bios' on the disk and verify that the copy has worked correctly after burning the disk because the last thing you want is to have a bios partially copied to a USB stick etc and then to flash your system.

First off go to the Asus P5N-E main webpage and download all of the bios revisions you want to a folder on your machine. Extract the .bin (bios files) from the zips into the folder. Download as many or as little as you want but I would recommend getting 0608, 0703, 0803 and 0901. Next download the Asus Awdflash Flash utility and extract the awdflash.exe into the same folder as the ####.bin files. And finally, download a copy of Flash CD and unzip the FlashCD.iso into the same folder.

Now you need to open the ISO image and add the bios files and AWDFLASH.exe into the existing list of files. I use UltraISO as its real easy and the free trial should allow you to do this task quickly. Once you have added the files to the ISO you can save it for use later and burn with your favourite CD burning software or burn with the included option within UltraISO. You should now have a bootable CD with all of the required files to flash your P5N-E

Boot the computer up with the CD set as the primary boot option in the bios. Give it a minute or so and you will be at an old dos prompt and if you read the passage above the prompt it will say what drive letter has been assigned to your CD-Rom device. In my case it says R:\\ so I type in R: and press return to get to the R:\\ prompt. Now I'm going to flash my P5N-E's bios by typing in the following:

awdflash ####.bin /f

#### is the bios revision number we downloaded earlier and are planning to use and the /f tells the flash utility to force the upgrade/downgrade. Pressing return/enter will bring you to a screen like this one










prompting you to save the existing bios. Enter N to say no to this as you do not need to save it and will be unable to save to the CD anyway. Next you will be prompted to start the flash but entering Y. Doing so will start the flash process and show you a screen not unlike this one:










The flash should take about a minute or two to complete and will prompt you to press F1 to reboot. This will restart the computer with a black screen for a short time before displaying a message says something like its updating CPU Checksum and then shows the Asus splash screen.

Flash complete.

2 - First Overclock

Over clocking your system is not straightforward and what might be good for me might not work for you. To give you a little bit of history about my overclock, I initially went straight from default settings to manual and set the system to unlinked with QDR 1333 and DDR 667. Immediately the system failed to boot and no matter what I tried it would either hang at windows loading, hang at the bios screen or just not display anything on the screen at all. I upgraded the bios to v0803 and tried again but got the same results. However, upon reading a few forums I found that people were having more joy with the 0608 bios more so than any other so I put everything back to default and downgraded from 0803 to 0608. Again I set up manual settings with Unlinked QDR 1333 and DDR 667 and everything else was left as default. Sure enough the PC booted straight into Windows at 3.0GHz right away. My motherboard bundle came with the CPU installed with a Thermaltake TR2-M13 SE LGA775 fan and temps were around the low to mid forties idle and high fifties under load. Checking CPU-Z I could see that the motherboard had set the memory timings on my bundled 4Gb Elixir ram to 5,5,5,18,2T. I was able to play my games etc without any problems but I wanted more.










3- Current Overclock

Given that I had it running well @ 3.0GHz before, I decided to see if I could push it and tried all kinds of other settings all the way up to 3.15GHz with various levels of success. Ultimately it wasn't as stable as I wanted and there seemed to be a hole after 1350 QDR that made things a little unreliable so I've gone back to basics.

It was always my plan to replace the rubbish ram that came with my motherboard bundle so I replaced the original 4GB Elixir DDR2 for Corsair Dominator TWIN2X2048-8500C5D performance ram. I also got rid of the awful northbridge heatsink and replaced it with a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Chip Cooler CL-C0034 and added a Akasa Chipset Cooler AK-210 to the southbridge that just about covers it all and allows for the second GPU.

















My plan at the moment is to burn it in for a few weeks stable at 3.0GHz and then eek out what I can slowly from there as I was probably taking to big a jump each time afterwards. Incidentally, I tried the 0901 bios and had the same problem as the 0703 and 0803 where it wouldn't even get past the bios boot so went straight back to 0608.

My current setup is as follows.




























I hope this helps some people out and good luck with your overclock.


----------



## SketchyFish

hello been reading thro this thread and gave me some dam good info that helped me get to a 3218.1MHz clock on my E6600 CD2 this is 9X multi,bus speed of 357.5MHz an FSB of 1430.3MHz the V.core is still set to auto and floating round 1.456 to1.472V.CORE..

think ive got pants ram tho its kingston valve as ive read its not to great for OC but will be gettign some better if any1 can point me in dirrection of some good ram for this board..
the timeing are well not to sure as not that up on this yet but im reading tho(if any 1 can post good info thread on this as well have looked but not much found)

ive got Kingston DDR2 PC2-5300 KVR667D2N5/1G its 2Gb in DDR2 got it running at 800MHz on a FSB







RAM 13:16 which i dotn get either really!! (but working on it) timeings of: CL5.0
tRCD 6
tRP 6
tRAS 31
tRC 24

noi these arnt great just from what ive read and from what ive learnt last few days...

niot sure what other info i need to post but please ask if need to no it ive been running orthos and getting it last maybe 20 mins before it beeps at me!!

did get it up a little higher than this bout 3.5Ghz but it kept crashign when asked a lot of it and been gettign a lot of blue screen errors bout hardware failign so shut down windows to save it!!!

this place looks good this is my fist post so im bit of noob but hope to not be soon getting my head roudn thios OC bit ....hope get soem help...

edited:ive only got stoick cooling on my CD2 just the HSF that came with it again gunan get what everybody seems to use Frezzer pro 7 and some HS or soem of the other options in the first post of thsi thread...

ive just updated my BIOS to 0901 thuinking would be better but not to sure now readign what has been posted in last couple posts and sure he nos dam lot more than me...so guess be down gradeing to 0608 again if that best?!?!?!


----------



## MrQ

Yep I am goiing to be doing the same. Kingston ram is the most stable but not the best, I have seen people use crucial ballistix, corsair xms and dominator, mushkin. I have not seen very many people use OCZ on this board. Hope that helps. my timings on my Kingston RAM (I will be getting the corsair in my sig sometime this week) 5-5-5-18 and 5-5-5-23 on NORMAL not overclocked. Don't feel bad.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Yep I am goiing to be doing the same. Kingston ram is the most stable but not the best, I have seen people use crucial ballistix, corsair xms and dominator, mushkin. I have not seen very many people use OCZ on this board. Hope that helps. my timings on my Kingston RAM (I will be getting the corsair in my sig sometime this week) 5-5-5-18 and 5-5-5-23 on NORMAL not overclocked. Don't feel bad.










yer that does help but are u running the same speed of DDR2 RAM as me tho?

and how comes if i can run my RAM that speed that you dont dop the same ro is it better to run it slower as ive read something along them lines around here im sure..so any memory from them few companys or makes is fine for this board then yer??

so i can set my timeing to these and it will emprove my ram speed or will it make my CPU overclock more easy to push as no there is lot of things that make an over clock not boot.as some times it wont even show a post at all just stays black and boots at stock settings...


----------



## MrQ

I'm running faster ram and faster timings. I have no idea what the timings would be for your 5300, but i bet setting them at 5-5-5-18 or 23 is worth a try.

As for the best memory the place to look for that is on the first post of this thread. there will be a link to P5N-E SLI Memory QVL list. This list shows the memory that is known to be compatible with this board. Granted all updated memory may not be on there, but check it out.

As for a stable over clock i suggest you follow diddlers instructions on downgrading your BIOS to 608 and then try to overclock from there.


----------



## SketchyFish

yer ive had a look at that a min ago weird! yer im just gunna boot an try those set of speeds in min see if makes any difference but no this is silly Q but how can i see if im running my RAM better by running 3Dmark or someother benchmark system or by some other method??? sorry if stupid as Q but just not to sure..so best to start by going back to 0608 then i guess i updated to 0801 casue of the support for Xfi cards but guess wont make that much differnce to my sound card will it???


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
I'm running faster ram and faster timings. I have no idea what the timings would be for your 5300, but i bet setting them at 5-5-5-18 or 23 is worth a try.


PC2/5300....is that DDR2/667MHz? if so safe timings would be 4-4-4-12, tight 3-3-3-8 & lower (if possible).


----------



## SketchyFish

yer that is the speeds of what ive got so thanks il try them it booted with those other timeings of 5-5-5-15 so far so good but havent doen much bench markign so not sure what my set up ca ndo guess i need to start at stock an go from there with my rig??no my GPU is pants but was all could afford at timeasnd new if got semi godo card i could get beter system and replace the card when they soprted outthe ****ty DX10 cardswhich seem tio be doing now.this is my first overclock and think im doing ok so far but the learning curve is step def but loveing it soakign it all up at mo be blazing my system soon enough...

so is it right that the lower my number the faster an ther for better my ra mwill run i no there nto very fast but all i got at mo so gotat make do for next few weeks till can find next lot.will these sloww stick slow my overclock down or keep me from hitting a good speed im at3.217Mhz at mo i think thats wuih standard cooling so should be lot better with a water cooling rig that im looking in to and soem HS on the northbridge and the SB also my GPU as well so got lot to look in to at mo then be happy bunny till next lot of upgrades that is !

cheers for your help guys would be lost other wise...


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
no my GPU is pants but was all could afford at time and new if got semi good card i could get beter system and replace the card when they soprted outthe ****ty DX10 cards which seem to be doing now.

Lol...I'll trade ya my 7600GT for your ***ty DX10 8600GTS









4700 is a pittiful 3DMark 06 score for a quad-core box


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Lol...I'll trade ya my 7600GT for your ***ty DX10 8600GTS









4700 is a pittiful 3DMark 06 score for a quad-core box









yer guess that doesnt make me feel so worse think im up at 6678 ro aorund that mark im not to suirre how to set it up well with my cards settings...


----------



## scottk

Anyone ever seen the following message from asus update:

Warning! The BIOS image can't use in this motherboard. (The EEPROM Type Incompatible)

Asus update on the BIOS Imformation says my chipset is C55-MCP51, and my current bios is 0803. I have the downgradable option checked, and aren't feeling daring enough to try and force it to downgrade through a CD boot.

I seem to be maxed out at a stable at 3.2G, I can run super pi runs at 3.4 and 3.6 but blue screen in orthos in under 1 mintue in either config, even with underclocked memory and a full 1.5V on CPU. My 14.8 second super pi run just keeps mocking me to crank up the speed and I have the temperature headroom, I just can't seem to get stable. Part of my problem may be memory as I can't overclock my XMS2 at all so can't use 1:1 above 3.2, but I was hoping 0608 might help. I just dont want to RMA a board if for some reason 0608 really isn't compatible.


----------



## MrQ

Dude, check " Way to get 3Ghz for Q6600 on Asus P5N-E SLI " This post explains it all and walks you through it. I just did it and it worked perfectly fine for me.


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

I'm going to be putting the e2180 on this mobo (yeah, the P5N-E SLI 650i), and I'm just wondering: What voltage may be required to reach approximately 3.5GHz?

Can I go higher? If so, what voltages should I expect to use?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Dude, check " Way to get 3Ghz for Q6600 on Asus P5N-E SLI " This post explains it all and walks you through it. I just did it and it worked perfectly fine for me.



Thanks yeah I saw that, but is the message about invalid EEPROM or whatever that I got in asus update normal for downgrading BIOS even with the downgrade option checked? Was curious if maybe later boards aren't compatible with earlier BIOS or something, and don't want to kill the board.


----------



## MrQ

Yes it is a normal deal when you downgrade on this board using the windows program. Thats why it is recommended to do it from a disk or flash drive.


----------



## Peroxide

Quote:


Originally Posted by *5CheeseLasagna* 
I'm going to be putting the e2180 on this mobo (yeah, the P5N-E SLI 650i), and I'm just wondering: What voltage may be required to reach approximately 3.5GHz?

Can I go higher? If so, what voltages should I expect to use?

This man needs more info so I can read about it.


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Yes it is a normal deal when you downgrade on this board using the windows program. Thats why it is recommended to do it from a disk or flash drive.

Awesome thanks for the info - will build a flash disk when I get home tonight. Hopefully the 0608 are generally more stable for OCing everything, not just the quads.


----------



## markt

Attachment 67376Here's the pencil mod i was talking about for the p5n-e sli.Hope it helps .It does work.


----------



## MrQ

Thanks man. This corrects vdroop right?

Quote:



Vdroop is there to lower the voltage to reduce power input into the chip to 'acceptable levels' under load... I'm sure it also serves the purpose of prolonging the life of power MOSFETS on MB's too.


 - _I borrowed this quote from [XC] Riptide off of extremesytems.org_


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Thanks man. This corrects vdroop right?

- _I borrowed this quote from [XC] Riptide off of extremesytems.org_

so does this make ur overclock more stable then? what are the reasons for wanting to do this then???

im seemingly at my top over clock with what cooling i got but when put it underload it crashes to a blue screen bout turning system off as not to hurt the hardware so does thsi mean im not stable then but it will run a 3DMARK 06 bench ok but it crashed when usein ConvertXtoDVD a min ago so droped my speed back to usein the simple 20%overclock that the board does by its self as this is very stable and doesnt rerally blue screen me for hardware issues??

i set my timeing to 4-4-4-18 like the guy suggested and seems to be better but not to sure on how i test this to really test if my timeings are better so if any1 nos how can get real life proff that my RAM is running better with what ever timeings i use???


----------



## MrQ

Use orthos. Run about an hour of its memory tests. As for the BSODs (Blue Screen of Death) it means it is unstable. Check your temps on your processor using coretemp while you run 3dmark06.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


so does this make ur overclock more stable then? what are the reasons for wanting to do this then???


No. It reduces the amount of vdroop you are getting. So you can drop down a notch or two on the vcore. Say if you set the Vcore to 1.45 in the bios but it reads at 1.4 on Cpu-z, you use the pencil mod to bring it up to 1.45 and then you could lower your vcore to 1.425 and most likely be stable.


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

I'm going to be putting the e2180 on this mobo (yeah, the P5N-E SLI 650i), and I'm just wondering: What voltage may be required to reach approximately 3.5GHz?

Can I go higher? If so, what voltages should I expect to use?

Pardon the repeat, but I was buried.


----------



## stumped

Quote:



Originally Posted by *5CheeseLasagna*


I'm going to be putting the e2180 on this mobo (yeah, the P5N-E SLI 650i), and I'm just wondering: What voltage may be required to reach approximately 3.5GHz?

Can I go higher? If so, what voltages should I expect to use?


I don't know if you would be able to reach that high as newer e2180 batches tend to top out at around 3.3 (if you're lucky to get that high) There's been many people (as of recent) that have been disappointed at the lower OCs than what they expected.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *5CheeseLasagna* 
I'm going to be putting the e2180 on this mobo (yeah, the P5N-E SLI 650i), and I'm just wondering: What voltage may be required to reach approximately 3.5GHz?

Can I go higher? If so, what voltages should I expect to use?

Pardon the repeat, but I was buried.









Each and every CPU is different someone may have one that reaches 3.5Ghz but yours wont. No one can tell you what voltage you will need as it varies from CPU to CPU.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Use orthos. Run about an hour of its memory tests. As for the BSODs (Blue Screen of Death) it means it is unstable. Check your temps on your processor using coretemp while you run 3dmark06.

yer dont seem to be getting that hot il post what temps are tomorrow as im well tired from painting my house all day..but not not getting over 55ish on CPU (got stock cooling still) and maybe 60ish at very tops ion GPU but its overclocked to just pushed it to far an 3Dmark gave up and windows started doing like electric like effects all over the OS desk top screen so had to reboot but seems ok but got it pushed lot more than the nvidia tool would push my card so all good...thanks for help guys im def getting there on this board an im new to this as well but love it so cant wait upgrade my cooling system.


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Each and every CPU is different someone may have one that reaches 3.5Ghz but yours wont. No one can tell you what voltage you will need as it varies from CPU to CPU.

I'm not looking for an exact voltage. Somebody else already taught me that each CPU is different (as in, I could have 10 e2180's, and each would be different).

I'm just looking for a ballpark estimate. Like, a range of voltages.

So then what kind of voltages should I expect to use to go to like 3.2GHz? What's the highest voltage I might have to use?

Again, I'm not looking for "oh, you need to use this exact voltage to go to this specific clock speed."

I'm just a month away from putting together this system, so I'm trying to prepare.


----------



## stumped

I'm telling you,you probably (unless by chance you get an older chip,) won't make it past 3.2 GHz. Most new e2180's have really cut down on how far they OC now. Most are even lucky to break 3 GHz


----------



## 5CheeseLasagna

Approximately how long ago did the e2180 begin showing this characteristic? I don't know how else to word this question...


----------



## stumped

mostly in the "Does Your e21x0 Have an FSB Wall?" Thread, and a few others I can't think of. You might want to PM Linskingodm about it. He knows the direct answer to this.

Thread


----------



## Steve096

Hello all, I was planning on doing some OCing to my system in the near future, but I wanted to get my cooling situation figured out first. On my P5N-E SLI I have an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what would be a good replacement north bridge heatsink/fan that would fit in combination with my cpu fan? I was also looking for a cooling option for my south bridge chip, but space is very limited with my 8800 GTS and DuOrb cooler, so whatever I would be getting would have to be as small as possible. Anyone have any suggestions for that too? Thanks in advance.


----------



## scottk

Anyone ever succesfully created a boot CD with a SATA CD/DVD drive? I've used the modified boot iso from a couple posts back, as well as trying with nero making a bootable data disk and in both cases I can boot, but it fails trying to create/map the drive for my bios and flash files. I'm thinking maybe it's some weird driver cd sys thing - but it does let the machine boot....


----------



## manny123

A little advice for me please

To overclock my E6750 to 3.0ghz should I just raise the bus speed to 375mhz.

Would I need to touch anything else.

oh and I'm using stock hsf so I don't know about taking it any further but for now I just want to take it to 3.0ghz

btw the P5N-E has AI overclock tuning, is that useful(safe), any of you guys use that. How much would a 10% increase take me to.

Thanks


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steve096* 
Hello all, I was planning on doing some OCing to my system in the near future, but I wanted to get my cooling situation figured out first. On my P5N-E SLI I have an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what would be a good replacement north bridge heatsink/fan that would fit in combination with my cpu fan? I was also looking for a cooling option for my south bridge chip, but space is very limited with my 8800 GTS and DuOrb cooler, so whatever I would be getting would have to be as small as possible. Anyone have any suggestions for that too? Thanks in advance.

Go to the first post on this thread here and it gives you a list of compatible heatsinks for the cpu, northbridge, and southbridge. A lot of people recommend the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II. I am personally still trying to get a northbridge HS with the same cpu cooler.

Quote:

Anyone ever succesfully created a boot CD with a SATA CD/DVD drive? I've used the modified boot iso from a couple posts back, as well as trying with nero making a bootable data disk and in both cases I can boot, but it fails trying to create/map the drive for my bios and flash files. I'm thinking maybe it's some weird driver cd sys thing - but it does let the machine boot....
Ok, it shouldn't make a ton of difference whether its SATA or not. Do you ever get to the command prompt?


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 

Ok, it shouldn't make a ton of difference whether its SATA or not. Do you ever get to the command prompt?


Yes, I get command prompt but no r: drive or whatever gets mapped - forget the error but it may be something like drive not ready or something like that when it tried to mount

-edit-

ok, found a magic boot disk iso v2.0 which claims "Drivers for IDE and SATA CDROM ", I'll try and put my files into that ISO and see if it works better.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Each and every CPU is different someone may have one that reaches 3.5Ghz but yours wont. No one can tell you what voltage you will need as it varies from CPU to CPU.


so from what ive read its harder to hit 3.0Ghz on a Quad core than a Core 2 Duo??

or is it because of this board that doesnt like to OC these Quad Core CPUs?
is this because of all the heat from 4 cores or is it some other reason?

is this a silly Q? reason i ask ids cause lot of peeps on here have said stuff along these lines on this board but no1 seems to be usein C2Ds liek i am is this just cause ur all in to massive amouints of processer power or havein the best that there is out there.ive got my E6600 to quite away past 3.0GHz but not really up on my overclocking yet as im still learning the ropes about pushing ur hardware to the best it will run.plus my ram and my stock cooling isnt that great so not trying to hard at mo till i update my board with a water cooling kit

any1 suggest a dam good system to use with my case ive got a soprano think its the basic version the 1100 i think? does that make any difference or can ua fit em in most cases easyly? maybe wanted a system to do my GPU as well or be able to add in to it later on when get better GPU system.been looking round a lot but cant see mto fins what i need as this is all new to me but lovein it all tho cool sence to be in love bein able to push my system to its limits and seeing what my hardware will do compared to every1 elses


----------



## thienthancongtu

I Could OC my Q6600 + P5N E-SLI to 2.70GHZ today and it seems stable so... i wanna go a lil higher but it wont boot into window any help?

1200FSB max with me which gives 300x9 = 2.70GHZ


----------



## Atticus5783

MrQ could overheating be a reason my computer freezes when tryin to load into windows? I took the heat sink off and it seems kinda thin on the thermal compound. I ordered some more hopefully that will get me somewhere.


----------



## MrQ

The reason we choose this board to go with the quads is because it has a all-around good qualities. As for why we choose quads, its up to the individual. I chose it because I thought that we would be moving into quad cores soon enough, but I love this thing besides that.

As for a watercooling kit. If you can afford it, I suggest you talk to a few of the other watercoolers in here. I am into air cooling right now. I can't afford water cooling.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thienthancongtu* 
I Could OC my Q6600 + P5N E-SLI to 2.70GHZ today and it seems stable so... i wanna go a lil higher but it wont boot into window any help?

1200FSB max with me which gives 300x9 = 2.70GHZ

Sorry for the double post. Check the link in my sig, "How to get to 3ghz with a Q6600 on an Asus P5N-E SLI" and follow the instructions exactly.

Quote:

MrQ could overheating be a reason my computer freezes when tryin to load into windows? I took the heat sink off and it seems kinda thin on the thermal compound. I ordered some more hopefully that will get me somewhere.
It is a possiblility. A good way to check is to turn you computer on and boot into the BIOS and check the temps in there. If the temps are continuing to climb in the BIOS you have a problem.


----------



## Steve096

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Go to the first post on this thread here and it gives you a list of compatible heatsinks for the cpu, northbridge, and southbridge. A lot of people recommend the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II. I am personally still trying to get a northbridge HS with the same cpu cooler.

Had any luck? do you think something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155

would fit? it seems like it would be small enough. Anyone else know of a NB heatsink that fits with the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro?

EDIT: Also, Do I just use regular Arctic Silver 5 for NB and SB heatsink attachment? I can't ever say I've changed one before.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steve096*


Had any luck? do you think something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103155

would fit? it seems like it would be small enough. Anyone else know of a NB heatsink that fits with the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro?


I couldn't say exactly with the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro, but I found out the hard way, that as long as you stay with a tall and straight CPU cooler, like the Zalman 9700NT (mine), Thermalright 120, or similar. You should be ok with this board. I had clearance issues w the cpu coolers that were w a flat (parallel to the cpu) fan design.

Regarding NB cooling, my first setup was simply a small fan screwed through the fins, on top of the Asus heatsink. Not very efficient, but it was ok. As you'll see from the pic I'm attaching, I now have the Zalman 47 fan-like heatsink on the NB, and the tall square one (47 tall series Zalman) on my SB. 
Before, I could 'fry an egg' on my heatsinks, running my Q6600 barely overclocked- at 2.87GHz. Although the photo is from when I had an 8600 GT on a Sonata III case, now I'm running the 8800 GT with the same heatsinks on an Antec P182 case, and there are no clearance issues w the SB heatsink.

Although I had some Arctic Silver around, I used the Zalman thermal paste on the NB and SB. The one provided w the heatsinks. The factory Goo under the NB took quite a lot of cleaning. Finished it off w a Q-tip w rubbing alcohol. Air dry all very well when u finish.
Hope this helps.


----------



## Atticus5783

Well im gonna try to get a new Heatsink to replace the one that came with my E6750 and some artic silver to replace the crap that came on the E6750 heatsink so hopefully that will fix my problems. =/


----------



## lordikon

I'd like to confirm that the RAM 1000-1033Mhz barrier still exists. Anything past 1033Mhz is a no-post for me. 1030 runs perfectly stable, 1033 will not post under any of MANY settings I've tried.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Anyone have an issue when going past 2.8Ghz? I seem to be stable at 2.8 ghz easily at 4.25vvcore, nb 156, [email protected] 1.09v using +100 thought I got it posted now at 3.0 ghz with bios vcore @1.47v and cpu-z reports a little over 1.52v same settings on nb and mem. The thing posts and when it gets into x64 its like the taskbar at the bottom is back to the classic color scheme instead of teh xp theme. It usually crashes within 5 minutes though. My temps are still good though does this sound like more vcore is needed here? Just seems like a barrier going from 2.8 to 3.0 ghz my ram is linked @ 750/1500 . Any thoughts? im also using bios 0901 and i cant seem to go back to any earlier version no matter how hard I try. I just tried to post by setting bios vcore to 1.50v cpu-z reports 1.552v and im thinkin this is a bit much so im not sure whats stopping me here. it posts still but it makes eth taskbar look like win 2k or something and my temps are still ok.

hmmm doesnt seem to be a voltage issue, i stayed at the same settings except this time I throttled back to 700/1400 for a 2.8ghz oc and the taskbar goes back to normal. Im stumped here.

lmao this time I went on ahead for a 3.2ghz which is my goal with the same settings as before just 800/1600 and it posts with the taskbar back to normal. Anyone care to explain this one?? Not even sure its stable yet though, gonna run primer95 and see what happens.

Load temps are around 58c and thats with cpu-z reporting 1.55vcore. lol Should I just leave it be or toen the vcore back a bit? Letting primer95 run for 6 hours to see if she's stable.


----------



## MrQ

turn back the vcore. Even my quad a 3ghz doesn't take 1.4 volts.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


turn back the vcore. Even my quad a 3ghz doesn't take 1.4 volts.



Yeah i turned it back down in bios to 1.475 yet cpu-z still reports it at 1.520v when i run prime95 it shows 1.504v. I got the +100 ticked in bios is there something im missing here or is that just the nature of these boards? Almost like a mobile board performs where it throttles itself as needed. Is there a setting i missed somewhere in bios.

update: looks like my 3.2ghz oc is pretty much stable, ran through 3 cycles in prime95 for an hour or more. Will let it run longer once i get my vcore down a tad but my temps are still good to go.

give me some rep back MrQ.









The same goes for setting it in bios @ 1.45vcore +100 cpu-z reports 1.502v and when you run prime95 it reports 1.472 and sometimes back and forth reading between the 2. Is this normal?


----------



## marsey99

turn of f the +100 so it only give 1.425v as it is throwing 1.525v out atm an vdropp is dropping it to 1.504v try setting it to 1.418 for 3.2ghz. thats what mine needs, yours may need a bit more or less but it should be in that ball park not 1.5v i only need that for 3.4ghz and above.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
turn of f the +100 so it only give 1.425v as it is throwing 1.525v out atm an vdropp is dropping it to 1.504v try setting it to 1.418 for 3.2ghz. thats what mine needs, yours may need a bit more or less but it should be in that ball park not 1.5v i only need that for 3.4ghz and above.


should i turn vdrop off and if so where is that setting at?

What about NB?

also do you think its possible to hit 3.4 on this setup?

also you can only do auto or +100mv im gonna try 1.425 and set it to auto and see what happens.
it posts at those settings now lets see what cpu-z is reporting.
weird cpu-z reports 1.408v lets run prime95 and see what it does
goes even further to1.376v and between the two and this is still for a 3.2ghz oc. lol does this sound alright or should I up it a tad? I mean if I can run prime95 for 6 hours straight I should leave it be correct? Or should I go for 3.4?


----------



## marsey99

the drop in volts from what is set in your bios and what windoze reports under load is the effect of vdroop. you want to try and find the lowest amount of voltage you can use and still be orthos/prime stable.

do you know how far you can push your ram?

400x8=3200 is a nice clock and what i run 24/7 to keep the temps and volts down and i only go higher for bench runs.

you could try setting it to 1.28v and have the +100 on which will give you 1.38v and might lessen the vdroop but this works for some and not for all.

your nb will need 1.4/1.5v because you are running 4 1gb sticks. this may also need to be raised again (as well as your vdimm) if you oc these much higher than 800.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
the drop in volts from what is set in your bios and what windoze reports under load is the effect of vdroop. you want to try and find the lowest amount of voltage you can use and still be orthos/prime stable.

do you know how far you can push your ram?

400x8=3200 is a nice clock and what i run 24/7 to keep the temps and volts down and i only go higher for bench runs.

you could try setting it to 1.28v and have the +100 on which will give you 1.38v and might lessen the vdroop but this works for some and not for all.

your nb will need 1.4/1.5v because you are running 4 1gb sticks. this may also need to be raised again (as well as your vdimm) if you oc these much higher than 800.

Im letting prime95 run atm, sadly it doesnt give you a timer only tells you what tests passed. So far its ran through run cycle and its half way through the next ( cycle meaning its completed 10 tests and says self test passed) she seems stable atm so im keeping my fingers crossed and my goal was 3.2ghz yet you know how the bug bites ya and you wanna see just how deep teh rabbit hole goes. lol

The ram is pc6400 supposed to be stock @ 800mhz so I figure it could push a little. I havent went past 3.2ghz due to having an issue with my chipset drivers which I have taken care of now.

I still gotta figure out how far I can go with my 8800gtx as well as my ram so i gotta lot of testing to do. For now im gonna work on getting stable settings ( which i think i already have) and complete my goal of 3.2ghz


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Anyone using a 45nm CPU with their P5N-E with the latest bios update?


----------



## MrQ

I agree turn off the +100 setting. As for the vdroop there is a pencil mod that fixes that. I can't find it tho. I have looked and looked but I can't seem to find it again. Shoot.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I agree turn off the +100 setting. As for the vdroop there is a pencil mod that fixes that. I can't find it tho. I have looked and looked but I can't seem to find it again. Shoot.



I would be interested in that info as well.


----------



## MrQ

.









Thanks to markt for the pic. The Pencil Mod to correct vdroop.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


.









Thanks to markt for the pic. The Pencil Mod to correct vdroop.


pardon my noobness but how exactly do you perform this procedure?


----------



## Lude

What NB voltage is too high?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lude*


What NB voltage is too high?



1.5 is enough, any higher is unneccesary. Also try and get a fan on the NBHS if you can if you are gonna up teh voltages just to help with the increased temps.


----------



## Lude

Well 3.4ghz seems to be my wall. Not going to try to force anything higher. I put vcore over 1.5 and NB at 1.39 and loosened ram timings and it woulnt work. Im sticking with 3.4. I just hope it stays stable.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lude*


Well 3.4ghz seems to be my wall. Not going to try to force anything higher. I put vcore over 1.5 and NB at 1.39 and loosened ram timings and it woulnt work. Im sticking with 3.4. I just hope it stays stable.



up the NB to 1.5 and see what happens. Just dont run it a long period of time without a fan but honestly, I dont have a fan on mine atm and my temps are all ok.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


pardon my noobness but how exactly do you perform this procedure?


Run a pencil over the highlighted area. 2H pencil is recommended. The graphite will create an electrical link between the connects of that part.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Run a pencil over the highlighted area. 2H pencil is recommended. The graphite will create an electrical link between the connects of that part.


I take it this isnt like your typical number 2 lead pencil but a electrical pencil; of sorts? If so where would i get one of these?

rep me back, ive repped you twice already. lol


----------



## MrQ

yes it is your regular 2h pencil. The graphite in the pencil is electrically conductive and will create a link over the part on the board same as if you soldered a wire over it.

I have not done this since i have not found a need to...yet.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


yes it is your regular 2h pencil. The graphite in the pencil is electrically conductive and will create a link over the part on the board same as if you soldered a wire over it.

I have not done this since i have not found a need to...yet.



so youre board doesnt vdrop or just cant justify needing to do this mod because of instability or it actuallhy holding you back?


----------



## MrQ

I am planning on pushing my quad harder once I get my cooler, but at 3ghz on auto its not bad. Since you are manually setting timings you are seeing vdroop between what you set and whats actually getting to the processor. This could be a way to correct that issue. Its completely reversible. A Q-Tip and some isopropyl alcohol will take care of the pencil marks.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I am planning on pushing my quad harder once I get my cooler, but at 3ghz on auto its not bad. Since you are manually setting timings you are seeing vdroop between what you set and whats actually getting to the processor. This could be a way to correct that issue. Its completely reversible. A Q-Tip and some isopropyl alcohol will take care of the pencil marks.



thats a good point, ill try it out and let you know though Im not sure I can get to it with this big ass tt120 in there. lol Ill let you know how it pans out.


----------



## Lude

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
up the NB to 1.5 and see what happens. Just dont run it a long period of time without a fan but honestly, I dont have a fan on mine atm and my temps are all ok.

I have to have a rock hard stable system for a long time. I fold 24/7, which takes a toll.

EDIT: Also, i was playing COD4 for a few minutes and my pc froze. I folded overnight and it was fine. I upped the NB to 1.39 and upped the CPU vcore to 1.475 (was 1.450). However, at idle my mobo temp in Everest is 51C. Isnt that kind of hot? Its usually low 40's. I bought NB heatsink awhile back, but it doesnt work with my Big Typhoon. Might just go back to 3.2, because i dont have the money to replace things and im sick of RMAing stuff.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lude* 
I have to have a rock hard stable system for a long time. I fold 24/7, which takes a toll.


its your oc but yeah get a fan first then up the NB voltage. Just sayin you could bump it up to see if its atleast stable for a few hours before you go puttin a fan on it ya know.


----------



## Lude

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
its your oc but yeah get a fan first then up the NB voltage. Just sayin you could bump it up to see if its atleast stable for a few hours before you go puttin a fan on it ya know.

I would have to have my CPU voltage over 1.5, which i wouldnt be too comfortable with running at load 24/7.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lude* 
I would have to have my CPU voltage over 1.5, which i wouldnt be too comfortable with running at load 24/7.


I dunno, you got a pretty damn good oc there for what you got.


----------



## Ghostkilla

how long should I run prime95 to say my system is indeed stable? Its been going almost 4 hours and I watched 3 episodes of sopranos on the same rig while prime95 was goin. lol Wouldnt that mean its pretty much stable??


----------



## Lude

Locked up again in COD4 and mobo got to 59C. Back to 3.2ghz, see if it locks up again. If it does, maybe its the memory, although it passed memtest multiple times, even at 3.4ghz. IMO 4 hours is pretty stable , unless you are folding, then only time will tell. I would do 8-10 hours. I had one fail around 6 hours.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lude* 
Locked up again in COD4 and mobo got to 59C. Back to 3.2ghz. IMO 4 hours is pretty stable , unless you are folding, then only time will tell. I would do 8-10 hours. I had one fail around 6 hours.


what are you using to test with? prime95 doesnt have a timer does it? Or do you fold and use that to test as well? Im happy with 3.2 though now I would like to see 3.4. lol I would be pissed to see one fail at 6 hours though.


----------



## Lude

I use Orthos. Utilizes all cores and has a timer. Then i start folding, and that in itself will test stability over time.

So COD4 kinda froze again, then screen went off and back on and COD4 came back. The old nvlddmkm error. My GPU was getting in the high 80's because i didnt have the fan on 100%. I put it on 100% and played for awhile longer and it did fine. I wonder if it was my GPU all along. Hopefully. Id rather have my CPU overclocked higher than my GPU overclocked.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lude*


I use Orthos. Utilizes all cores and has a timer. Then i start folding, and that in itself will test stability over time.

So COD4 kinda froze again, then screen went off and back on and COD4 came back. The old nvlddmkm error. My GPU was getting in the high 80's because i didnt have the fan on 100%. I put it on 100% and played for awhile longer and it did fine. I wonder if it was my GPU all along. Hopefully. Id rather have my CPU overclocked higher than my GPU overclocked.



you usin rivatuner to set it at 100%? I leave mine stuck on 100% Also they just released a new version of rivatuner, i believe 2.07 it is.


----------



## marsey99

my nb runs 1.56v 24/7 but i have a noctua heatsink on mine with a stock intel fan (2k rpm) strapped to it and it never goes above 40c even after hours of gaming. gaming raises my temps more than anything as my gpu gets hot too, i have my fan running 65% and it keeps it under 55C. this is in an av room temp of between 22/28c


----------



## Lude

Yea im using the newest version. I usually set it to 100% when playing games and set it back because its kinda loud. Wish i could have it only go to 100% when playing a game. Its only 100% on performance 3d, but apparently that is always. Maybe its a Vista thing. I remember it only going to 100% on my old pc when i started a game or 3d app. Oh well.


----------



## MrQ

Well I am doing a burn in on my 3ghz oc. Small FFTs on Orthos running at the same time as a 50% cor usage folding WU.

Temps peaking at 67C


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Well I am doing a burn in on my 3ghz oc. Small FFTs on Orthos running at the same time as a 50% cor usage folding WU.

Temps peaking at 67C



wow, AF7 not workin out as planned?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


so from what ive read its harder to hit 3.0Ghz on a Quad core than a Core 2 Duo??

or is it because of this board that doesnt like to OC these Quad Core CPUs?
is this because of all the heat from 4 cores or is it some other reason?


As Raving pointed out long ago in this thread why a Quad wont OC that much is due to its 3 phase power. Couple that to Asus make non reference boards.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


pardon my noobness but how exactly do you perform this procedure?


You basically use a pencil to change the resistence of the resistor. My P5N-E actually is overvolting the CPU as i was too lazy to redo the pencil mod, but it can help you acheive a higher OC at the same voltage since reduces the ammount of vdroop you have. And that pic is wrong, look in my sig for a link to the right one







.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


As Raving pointed out long ago in this thread why a Quad wont OC that much is due to its 3 phase power. Couple that to Asus make non reference boards.

You basically use a pencil to change the resistence of the resistor. My P5N-E actually is overvolting the CPU as i was too lazy to redo the pencil mod, but it can help you acheive a higher OC at the same voltage since reduces the ammount of vdroop you have. And that pic is wrong, look in my sig for a link to the right one
 






.



that pic in your sig doesnt show where to pencil in though.


----------



## MrQ

I just got the AF7 an hour ago but not the AS5 I ordered. Bummer. And Asce I agree with ghost your sig pic does not show where the Mod was done? Did it for an hour with no issue. Gonna run PCMark05 next.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I just got the AF7 an hour ago but not the AS5 I ordered. Bummer. And Asce I agree with ghost your sig pic does not show where the Mod was done?



cant you get AS5 at best buy, radio shack, etc. now? I got several tubes on hand so I never run out. If you were closer I would let you borrow a dab or 2. lol


----------



## MrQ

At Best buy? You gotta be kidding. Radio shack is way to high. As well as the frys in town. Besides part of this is for my customer who wants to seat an Ultra ChillTec on an E8400 running on a P5N32-E SlI Plus and overclock the sucker to 3.6ghz.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


At Best buy? You gotta be kidding. Radio shack is way to high. As well as the frys in town. Besides part of this is for my customer who wants to seat an Ultra ChillTec on an E8400 running on a P5N32-E SlI Plus and overclock the sucker to 3.6ghz.



They got it at best buy last time I was there. I wouldnt buy it though because its too high but in a pinch if I gotta have it I know I can go there. As always im sure not all of them carry it or have it in stock. They only had one tube from what I saw at our local BB> lol


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


that pic in your sig doesnt show where to pencil in though.


Look at the bottom left of the CPU header and 2 resistors down there one with a yellow line over it.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Look at the bottom left of the CPU header and 2 resistors down there one with a yellow line over it.



I think I see it, the only fat yellow line on there that looks like a resistor siting on the board itself? lol You could make it easier and just draw a circle around it or an arrow. Thanks


----------



## MrQ

Ok this explains why we have two different pictures showing two different pencil mods. They are made to be used in conjunction or separately. I may just do this when I have my computer apart this weekend.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Ok this explains why we have two different pictures showing two different pencil mods. They are made to be used in conjunction or separately. I may just do this when I have my computer apart this weekend.


so does this help with vdrop or does it just allow you to run higher voltages which stock seems ok for my setup.


----------



## MrQ

It helps with vdroop.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


It helps with vdroop.



seems like asus couldve done a bios update to fix the voltage to one setting or maybe because of how the C2D works it has to have variable voltages. I know most single cores had fixed voltages with no variables unless it was a mobile.


----------



## scottk

Found a slightly better stable overclock today - I couldn't quite reach 3.4 stably but 3.35 seems to do the trick, good enough for 15.3 second super pi with core temp in orthos going to about 48 with Q-fan enabled and fan at about 2400 rpms. I could turn it off to drop temps more but at 2700 rpm the zalman is pretty loud.

I haven't started tweaking memory timings or V back down so I may be able to back off a bit from there still, but my E6750 appears much less OC friendly than others as I'm at 1.475V to get 3.35. Oh well, I won't complain too much about 26% overclock on a budget build system lol.

I never could get a boot CD to succesfully map my CD drive, so I'm still on the 0803 BIOS.


----------



## Ghostkilla

updated










Temps seem kind of high to me for the voltage stated though. But atleast shes stable. lol


----------



## TriBeCa

Hey guys. Slapped another couple gigs of RAM in my setup, because a pair of these Dominators were a whopping $50 after MIR on the egg.

Can't quite seem to keep it stable though. Pushing large FFTs through orthos causes a reboot somewhere between 1 and 2 hours. I've tried tighter timings and more vdimm.... Any thoughts on how I might get her stable?


----------



## Atticus5783

ok guys I have another weird thing going on... When ever I turn on my power stripe my computer turns itself on without me hitting the power button.


----------



## Wobbley

I am new to the whole overclocking thing and i have a weird issue with my motherboard:

I have pushed the FSB as far as i can without upping the voltage. I am currently overclocking it linked. Anyways i increased the mem voltage in BIOS, but for some reason it does not change? Even though the recommended voltage for the RAM is 2.1V (thats what i set it to). I checked in programs such as CPUZ and Everest and it still showed 1.8 in there


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wobbley*


I am new to the whole overclocking thing and i have a weird issue with my motherboard:

I have pushed the FSB as far as i can without upping the voltage. I am currently overclocking it linked. Anyways i increased the mem voltage in BIOS, but for some reason it does not change? Even though the recommended voltage for the RAM is 2.1V (thats what i set it to). I checked in programs such as CPUZ and Everest and it still showed 1.8 in there










I know I had the same issue. It was crazy. The way to fix it is to reset the BIOS. Pull the button battery out after you have disconnected the power. After you change your clock settings when you reboot DON"T OVERCLOCK!! Let it fully boot into windows then restart it and overclock.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Atticus5783*


ok guys I have another weird thing going on... When ever I turn on my power stripe my computer turns itself on without me hitting the power button.


Ok this is a BIOS deal as well. If you shut the power off while the computer is still on, and if the setting in the BIOS is set to turn on when power returns, then when you flip the switch to turn 0on your power strip the computer will detect the power and turn back on.


----------



## aleiro

DONT DO THAT... cpuz doesnt monitor mem voltage. What i think you are looking at is the jedec profile which is what your ram settings should be set to

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I know I had the same issue. It was crazy. The way to fix it is to reset the BIOS. Pull the button battery out after you have disconnected the power. After you change your clock settings when you reboot DON"T OVERCLOCK!! Let it fully boot into windows then restart it and overclock.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


DONT DO THAT... cpuz doesnt monitor mem voltage. What i think you are looking at is the jedec profile which is what your ram settings should be set to


You are correct. I misunderstood. I was thinking CPU voltage not RAM voltage. My bad.


----------



## Steve096

I have come to find that I probably don't have the best memory for overclocking like I plan too. Ive been reading the QVL for RAM and see alot of options, But would anyone know what a good type of RAM would be for me? (I plan on overclocking my E6750 CPU to around 3 Ghz)


----------



## Wobbley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
I know I had the same issue. It was crazy. The way to fix it is to reset the BIOS. Pull the button battery out after you have disconnected the power. After you change your clock settings when you reboot DON"T OVERCLOCK!! Let it fully boot into windows then restart it and overclock.

the button battery?









Is that the pin you pull out to reset the motherboard?


----------



## marsey99

removing the battery, like switching said jumper, also clears the cmos.

edit

@steve

it depends what and how much you want, tbh with the current low in the price of ddr2 i could not see the sense in not getting 2x2gb sticks.

if you look at peepz sig in this thread you will see what works and how far they have pushed them.


----------



## Ghostkilla

FINALLY got mine stable 3.2ghz oc ran 24 hours non stop in orthos but my temps got up around 55c full load. May need to re-lap my HSF and cpu. atleast its stable now WOO HOO!!!


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Hey guys. Slapped another couple gigs of RAM in my setup, because a pair of these Dominators were a whopping $50 after MIR on the egg.

Can't quite seem to keep it stable though. Pushing large FFTs through orthos causes a reboot somewhere between 1 and 2 hours. I've tried tighter timings and more vdimm.... Any thoughts on how I might get her stable?



dude I hit 3.2ghz on mine with cpu-z reporting 1.38v I wanna say I set mine in bios to 1.425vcore, nb. 1.5v, mem. 1.085v and it ran orthos stable for 24 hours straight. Not sure 1.55v vcore is needed on yours. Just noticed it in your sig.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steve096*


I have come to find that I probably don't have the best memory for overclocking like I plan too. Ive been reading the QVL for RAM and see alot of options, But would anyone know what a good type of RAM would be for me? (I plan on overclocking my E6750 CPU to around 3 Ghz)



should be able to hit 800mhz X 2 with that ram and that wouldnt even be overclocking it. That would give you a 3.2ghz oc with a 8x multi.


----------



## Wobbley

what software can i use and not get the wrong mem voltage readings? I tried EVEREST and CPUZ for the mem voltage, but somebody told me CPUZ is just showing innacurate stuff.

I removed the battery and such now so in theorey i the problem should be fixed and i should get it to 2.085 V il see what EVEREST says now

Just to make sure i solved the issue the riht way this is how i did it:

1. Unplugged the battery for about 5 seconds, and put it back inn
2. Said CMOS had been cleared when i booted up and i just went straight into windows.
3. I rebooted and changed the voltage to 2.085 V (and fixed the clock, havent increased the FSB yet though)


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


dude I hit 3.2ghz on mine with cpu-z reporting 1.38v I wanna say I set mine in bios to 1.425vcore, nb. 1.5v, mem. 1.085v and it ran orthos stable for 24 hours straight. Not sure 1.55v vcore is needed on yours. Just noticed it in your sig.


It's not needed for 3.2GHz, but to get 3.3GHz or higher it is. These are the most stable settings I've found. And I need 2.2vdimm or it locks up - I presume just because I have 4 sticks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steve096*


I have come to find that I probably don't have the best memory for overclocking like I plan too. Ive been reading the QVL for RAM and see alot of options, But would anyone know what a good type of RAM would be for me? (I plan on overclocking my E6750 CPU to around 3 Ghz)


I really like the corsair dominators, and they've got a big MIR on them right now too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wobbley*


what software can i use and not get the wrong mem voltage readings? I tried EVEREST and CPUZ for the mem voltage, but somebody told me CPUZ is just showing innacurate stuff.

I removed the battery and such now so in theorey i the problem should be fixed and i should get it to 2.085 V il see what EVEREST says now

Just to make sure i solved the issue the riht way this is how i did it:

1. Unplugged the battery for about 5 seconds, and put it back inn
2. Said CMOS had been cleared when i booted up and i just went straight into windows.
3. I rebooted and changed the voltage to 2.085 V (and fixed the clock, havent increased the FSB yet though)


No software will report RAM voltage. Only way to find out how much voltage they're actually getting is with a voltimeter.


----------



## Ghostkilla

TriBeCa said:


> It's not needed for 3.2GHz, but to get 3.3GHz or higher it is. These are the most stable settings I've found. And I need 2.2vdimm or it locks up - I presume just because I have 4 sticks.
> quote]
> 
> I run 4 sticks as well and my mem is 1.85v vcore is 1.425v nb 1.56v cpu-z reports lower vcore as well and Im stable.


----------



## stumped

WOW, my bored just bit the bullet again for the third time last night! ( i hate this board!)
I turned it off, turned it back on a bit later, and I got a screen showing: x1900xt 256MB
So i thought, crap, what did I do to my card? It wasn't that. Then there was no post after I tried to turn it on again. So I took everything thing out, and there was still no beep codes! I hate this thing!


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stumped*


WOW, my bored just bit the bullet again for the third time last night! ( i hate this board!)
I turned it off, turned it back on a bit later, and I got a screen showing: x1900xt 256MB
So i thought, crap, what did I do to my card? It wasn't that. Then there was no post after I tried to turn it on again. So I took everything thing out, and there was still no beep codes! I hate this thing!



I went through 2 P5N's before I got them to swap me for a P5N-E. first one I got a sata connector went out and the 2nd one I got to replace that one booted twice then took a crap before I could even get my setings in bios tweaked. lol


----------



## MrQ

Hey guys, question for you. I just put in my new Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro on my setup with AS5. I also clean my northbridge and applied AS5 there. Now My CPU temps are 10c HIGHER than they were with my stock cooler. What is up with that?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Hey guys, question for you. I just put in my new Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro on my setup with AS5. I also clean my northbridge and applied AS5 there. Now My CPU temps are 10c HIGHER than they were with my stock cooler. What is up with that?


Reseat it. It probably isn't attached correctly.


----------



## MrQ

Yeah I figured it out. My NB was getting in the way.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
Yeah I figured it out. My NB was getting in the way.

One of the post of the first page has the answer you are looking for i think
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post1618005


----------



## marsey99

yea q you either need to cut off about 5mm sq on the bottom of the fan mount on the nb side or fit the 7 pro so it blows up the case.

glad to see you worked it out m8.


----------



## Atticus5783

Well I RMA'd my P5N-E and my new one is DOA =/ debating if I should RMA for replacement again or refund and get the EVGA 680i.


----------



## stumped

GO FOR THE REFUND!!!!! It took them over a month to get my first board back to me. Then the 2nd one was DOA. and now (almost one month after the 3rd board) it has crapped out. Take it from me, get a new board!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


I run 4 sticks as well and my mem is 1.85v vcore is 1.425v nb 1.56v cpu-z reports lower vcore as well and Im stable.


but you have different RAM...my sticks are 2.1v at stock. I just had to bump them up a notch. I've got the dominators with the big huge heat sink on them, so they can take the voltage.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
but you have different RAM...my sticks are 2.1v at stock. I just had to bump them up a notch. I've got the dominators with the big huge heat sink on them, so they can take the voltage.


yeah, wasnt the ram voltage I was concerned about, it was looking at your 3.2ghz oc with 1.55v that caught my eye.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Atticus5783* 
Well I RMA'd my P5N-E and my new one is DOA =/ debating if I should RMA for replacement again or refund and get the EVGA 680i.


see if they will replace for the P5N-E SLI 650i board. Its the one I run now and its solid. THe P5N-SLI was the **** board. I went through 3 of those before they finally upgraded me to the P5N-E and after that I think ive had this board a year now.


----------



## SketchyFish

what are the latest and greatest nvidia chip set drivers for this board im on a version from 2006!! sure there are newer version of this chip set drivers that are stable and will give me some more umph on my board???

what chip set drivers are every1 else using on this board at the mo???

is it worth me upgradeing at moment or waiting till new drivers come out?

thanks for any help peeps...seen on 3d GURU that got lots of drivers from this year but they are BETA drivers sos didnt wanna just install em as last time i updated my chip set drivers my ethernet port stoped working and had to roll back to old 1s that came on my motherboard disk.which im dam sure are out of date allready!!!

think there up tov18.07 vista 32-bit drivers if that helps ua out i can find out which im useing as well if it helps ua help me lol...


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
what are the latest and greatest nvidia chip set drivers for this board im on a version from 2006!! sure there are newer version of this chip set drivers that are stable and will give me some more umph on my board???

what chip set drivers are every1 else using on this board at the mo???

is it worth me upgradeing at moment or waiting till new drivers come out?

thanks for any help peeps...seen on 3d GURU that got lots of drivers from this year but they are BETA drivers sos didnt wanna just install em as last time i updated my chip set drivers my ethernet port stoped working and had to roll back to old 1s that came on my motherboard disk.which im dam sure are out of date allready!!!

think there up tov18.07 vista 32-bit drivers if that helps ua out i can find out which im useing as well if it helps ua help me lol...


not sure on vista, i run x64 and use the 8.43nvidia drivers. Just make sure you load them and the display drivers in safe mode.


----------



## Perry

Ok, my next question...this may or may not happen but is anybody have problems running 4x1GB OCZ Platinum rev.2 in this board? I know I may have to bump up the northbridge voltage a bit to compensate but this stuff is super cheap at the moment and overclock very well for not having Micron chips.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Ok, my next question...this may or may not happen but is anybody have problems running 4x1GB OCZ Platinum rev.2 in this board? I know I may have to bump up the northbridge voltage a bit to compensate but this stuff is super cheap at the moment and overclock very well for not having Micron chips.



I think they covered this on the first page. im sure 4gb will work just as good as 2gb.

Also add in 4X 1GB sticks of Corsair XMS2 for compatibility list


----------



## SketchyFish

which would people say they would be most happy to install on there board,the drivers from the asus website which are old for Vista: 1.12/2006/12/26 update

Description: Nvidia Chipset Driver Package V1.12 for 32& 64 bit Windows Vista.(Vista beta drivers are for testing on.)

or the newer Nvidia which from what i can find from 3druru or google search are theses:NVIDIA nFORCE v18.07 Vista/2008-03-02

Windows Vista 32/64-bit

This is the content of the Vista (32/64bit) packages v18.07:

Ethernet Driver (v67.72) WHQL
SataIDE Driver (v10.3.0.16) WHQL
RAID Driver (v10.3.0.16) WHQL
RAIDTOOL (v10.3.0.16)
SMBus (v4.63) WHQL
SMU (v1.39) WHQL
Audio Driver (v1.00.0.16) WHQL
Installer (v5.70).

Please use and treat these drivers as Beta ! So if you don't know what you are doing and everything works fine .. leave them alone. Supported nForce series 4,5,6 & 7.

so do i use these which seem to be newest drivers for my system board which i can find but they all have a lot of differnet names from what i can see anyway..no its better to stick to the old drivers sometimes as new 1 can be buggy but just thought the drivers im running are from 2006 im sure so must be better version out by now so any info on this??

and ive also seen that new forceware driver out top but that is also beta to so is that worth installing now? think its 169.44 vista 32-bit version??
sorry if this is a real noob question but im at a loss and dont wanna rock my boat so to see as its running ok but im sure that some of these newer chip set drivers might do me some good..


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


which would people say they would be most happy to install on there board,the drivers from the asus website which are old for Vista: 1.12/2006/12/26 update

Description: Nvidia Chipset Driver Package V1.12 for 32& 64 bit Windows Vista.(Vista beta drivers are for testing on.)

or the newer Nvidia which from what i can find from 3druru or google search are theses:NVIDIA nFORCE v18.07 Vista/2008-03-02

Windows Vista 32/64-bit

This is the content of the Vista (32/64bit) packages v18.07:

Ethernet Driver (v67.72) WHQL
SataIDE Driver (v10.3.0.16) WHQL
RAID Driver (v10.3.0.16) WHQL
RAIDTOOL (v10.3.0.16)
SMBus (v4.63) WHQL
SMU (v1.39) WHQL
Audio Driver (v1.00.0.16) WHQL
Installer (v5.70).

Please use and treat these drivers as Beta ! So if you don't know what you are doing and everything works fine .. leave them alone. Supported nForce series 4,5,6 & 7.

so do i use these which seem to be newest drivers for my system board which i can find but they all have a lot of differnet names from what i can see anyway..no its better to stick to the old drivers sometimes as new 1 can be buggy but just thought the drivers im running are from 2006 im sure so must be better version out by now so any info on this??

and ive also seen that new forceware driver out top but that is also beta to so is that worth installing now? think its 169.44 vista 32-bit version??
sorry if this is a real noob question but im at a loss and dont wanna rock my boat so to see as its running ok but im sure that some of these newer chip set drivers might do me some good..



If it aint broke, it aint broke. leave it alone. Unless youre unhappy with your setup or have an issue dont worry about it. As long as they are not beta drivers and actual tested drivers you should have no issues. Beta drivers are just that, untested drivers that may or may not work for you. You wont know till you test them out. You can however see a performance gain with these drivers or it could take a turn for the worse. Hard to say. Asus tends to update their drivers for chipsets a month or two after the board is released and thats it. After that usually nvidia picks up an update or two depending on the board. Personally if I have a nvidia chipset board I would rather have nvidia drivers. seems to work best for me.


----------



## SketchyFish

ok thats what i was thinking of going down the nvidia route as they seem to have loads of updates for this chipset.only reason i wanted to update them as they are the first main update that asus did like ua said about and would like to try see if it gives me anything better than the old 07 drivers so worth a try i think ive gotta do a fresh reinstall some time in future anyway so what the hay gunan go for it.i boot in to safe mode a do a driver cleaner pro to clear it all then do i reboot and do a clean install of my nvidia chip set drivers and the GPU if im updateing that or do i do that anyway just cause they are the same sort (nvidia)an they might be cleared in the driver pro sweep??

i wanted to put new version of ntune as well so could do this at same time i guess?

so u wouldnt suggest using the beta version of the nvidia drivers that i posted so the next newest version backdown the list of them then i guess??


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


ok thats what i was thinking of going down the nvidia route as they seem to have loads of updates for this chipset.only reason i wanted to update them as they are the first main update that asus did like ua said about and would like to try see if it gives me anything better than the old 07 drivers so worth a try i think ive gotta do a fresh reinstall some time in future anyway so what the hay gunan go for it.i boot in to safe mode a do a driver cleaner pro to clear it all then do i reboot and do a clean install of my nvidia chip set drivers and the GPU if im updateing that or do i do that anyway just cause they are the same sort (nvidia)an they might be cleared in the driver pro sweep??

i wanted to put new version of ntune as well so could do this at same time i guess?

so u wouldnt suggest using the beta version of the nvidia drivers that i posted so the next newest version backdown the list of them then i guess??



Im not sure with vista, they still havent gotten a solid platform for that os yet it seems. But be prepared to worst case scenario ( reinstall os) if things go sour. Its not gonna do any permament damage to your hardware but it may mess up the os or other drivers and ive seen this happen abunch. Like I said, unless you are unhappy with your system its just not worth it to me because the gains you will see are very minute or may even make things worse. I usually lok around for benchies of new drivers and see what others are experiencing before I go playing with em unless im having issues myself ill dive right in. If you were using x64 i could tell you what the best chipset drivers are for this board because Ive tested all of them. Vista I dont plan on using anytime soon so I guess i cant really help you there. sorry


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


I think they covered this on the first page. im sure 4gb will work just as good as 2gb.

Also add in 4X 1GB sticks of Corsair XMS2 for compatibility list


It's true that they did cover that a 2x1GB kit will work (I don't doubt that it will) but 4x1GB kits can be squirelly on even the best chipsets and I have found this board incredibly picky. It took me 4 tries to reseat my memory before the board would post so I could get into the BIOS and modify the settings.

What they say will work and what actually will work in the real world are often two very different things.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


Im not sure with vista, they still havent gotten a solid platform for that os yet it seems. But be prepared to worst case scenario ( reinstall os) if things go sour. Its not gonna do any permament damage to your hardware but it may mess up the os or other drivers and ive seen this happen abunch. Like I said, unless you are unhappy with your system its just not worth it to me because the gains you will see are very minute or may even make things worse. I usually lok around for benchies of new drivers and see what others are experiencing before I go playing with em unless im having issues myself ill dive right in. If you were using x64 i could tell you what the best chipset drivers are for this board because Ive tested all of them. Vista I dont plan on using anytime soon so I guess i cant really help you there. sorry


sounds like good sound advice man thanks gunna go google the new drivers and see what they do compared to old asus ones so nice1 thanks for the info mate migth ave saved me lot of hassle and bullache...


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


It's true that they did cover that a 2x1GB kit will work (I don't doubt that it will) but 4x1GB kits can be squirelly on even the best chipsets and I have found this board incredibly picky. It took me 4 tries to reseat my memory before the board would post so I could get into the BIOS and modify the settings.

What they say will work and what actually will work in the real world are often two very different things.



Im not sure on OCZ, I dont use the stuff. Im a big fan of corsair. I saw that the 2gb of corsair XMS2 worked so I bought 4gb of it and put it right in no issues. I know this doesnt confirm ocz in a 4gb package will work for you but honestly I think it will if 2gb works fine.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


sounds like good sound advice man thanks gunna go google the new drivers and see what they do compared to old asus ones so nice1 thanks for the info mate migth ave saved me lot of hassle and bullache...



Yeah I think google is the best thing since sliced bread dude.


----------



## MrQ

Perry, I agree with ghost. OCZ is very troublesome for this board. I have used kingston and corsair. Just today I popped out 2 gig of 6400 Kingston ValuRam and plugged in 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5300 ram (I changed out the ram for better timings, 4-4-4-12 instead of 5-5-5-13). Worked on the first try, no problem. It seems corsair is the best ram on this board. As for OCZ I would just watch those voltages. Thats all I have heard about that RAM, its picky on its voltages.


----------



## SketchyFish

nice i just did a total clean of my system and its running 10C colder at top speed and 15-20 at idle speeds..i also redid my paste under my stock HSF cooler as i did it when i didnt no **** bout PCs and that osrt of thing so put a lot less on this time and made a big difference to my temps so wont be doing that again..

and dam looks a loads more neater now to so gotta get that case mod soon...gotta ave a window in my case...lol lol


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Perry, I agree with ghost. OCZ is very troublesome for this board. I have used kingston and corsair. Just today I popped out 2 gig of 6400 Kingston ValuRam and plugged in 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5300 ram (I changed out the ram for better timings, 4-4-4-12 instead of 5-5-5-13). Worked on the first try, no problem. It seems corsair is the best ram on this board. As for OCZ I would just watch those voltages. Thats all I have heard about that RAM, its picky on its voltages.


my first build on this system didn't last 24 hours because the OCZ platinum rev 2's killed two of the DIMM slots on the board.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Perry, I agree with ghost. OCZ is very troublesome for this board. I have used kingston and corsair. Just today I popped out 2 gig of 6400 Kingston ValuRam and plugged in 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5300 ram (I changed out the ram for better timings, 4-4-4-12 instead of 5-5-5-13). Worked on the first try, no problem. It seems corsair is the best ram on this board. As for OCZ I would just watch those voltages. Thats all I have heard about that RAM, its picky on its voltages.


On mine I can't even POST with both sticks of XMS2 6400 "C4" ram, every time I reset bios I have to pull one stick, manually enter timing and voltage and then put the other stick back in. On the ramguy forum it's a very common occurence so not even corsair is perfect.

Also, did you test memory bandwidth after your swap? I'd assume a 800mhz value ram would outperform 667mhz corsair even with slightly tighter timing, or was 5300 a typo?


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottk* 
I'd assume a 800mhz value ram would outperform 667mhz corsair even with slightly tighter timing, or was 5300 a typo?

Unless your 800 had C5 timings I would think you're right but chances are with C5 timings on a 2x1GB stick you'd be able to overclock quite a bit to make up for it and then gain a little extra.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Perry, I agree with ghost. OCZ is very troublesome for this board. I have used kingston and corsair. Just today I popped out 2 gig of 6400 Kingston ValuRam and plugged in 4x 512mb Corsair XMS 5300 ram (I changed out the ram for better timings, 4-4-4-12 instead of 5-5-5-13). Worked on the first try, no problem. It seems corsair is the best ram on this board. As for OCZ I would just watch those voltages. Thats all I have heard about that RAM, its picky on its voltages.


I've been running 4Gigs of OCZ (2x2GB of their SLI Ram) for 4 months now with no issues whatsoever.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


ok thats what i was thinking of going down the nvidia route as they seem to have loads of updates for this chipset.only reason i wanted to update them as they are the first main update that asus did like ua said about and would like to try see if it gives me anything better than the old 07 drivers so worth a try i think ive gotta do a fresh reinstall some time in future anyway so what the hay gunan go for it.i boot in to safe mode a do a driver cleaner pro to clear it all then do i reboot and do a clean install of my nvidia chip set drivers and the GPU if im updateing that or do i do that anyway just cause they are the same sort (nvidia)an they might be cleared in the driver pro sweep??

i wanted to put new version of ntune as well so could do this at same time i guess?

so u wouldnt suggest using the beta version of the nvidia drivers that i posted so the next newest version backdown the list of them then i guess??


I was running the 169 Series of drivers from Nvidia and they seemed to work fine. Last week I was working w Nvidia CS to try to get my SMART info from my HDDs.

In this process, Nvidia tech suggested another set of drivers for my 650i P5N-E SLI on Vista 32-bit. You might want to check them out if you are running the P5N-E SLI 650i on Vista 32-bit:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/nvidia/nforce650i_vista.zip

If you are running nTune, it is recommended to uninstall nTune before upgrading to these drivers, and then install nTune after installing the new drivers and restarting. Also, if UAC is enabled, disable it before doing any of this.
Hope this helps.


----------



## ulua56

Received my RMA P5N-E MB back from Asus, don't know if it was my dimm slots or a bad bio chip. NO POST before RMA.One long repeating beep.(mailed on 2/7/08 returned 3/4/08) loaded with bios 608. I had to up the voltage on my 2x2 G.SKILL 800 to 2.013 and NB to 1.393 to run stable.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


On mine I can't even POST with both sticks of XMS2 6400 "C4" ram, every time I reset bios I have to pull one stick, manually enter timing and voltage and then put the other stick back in. On the ramguy forum it's a very common occurence so not even corsair is perfect.

Also, did you test memory bandwidth after your swap? I'd assume a 800mhz value ram would outperform 667mhz corsair even with slightly tighter timing, or was 5300 a typo?


CPU-Z say 5300 the ram says 5400. It really doesn't matter on my board because I had to underclock my old sticks to 667 to able to achieve the 3ghz overclock on my quad. The ram timings on my old ones were C5 these new ones are C4.

Granted I have yet to monkey around with my overclock settings, but I figured I needed to maintain a 1:1 divider.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ProfQ*


I was running the 169 Series of drivers from Nvidia and they seemed to work fine. Last week I was working w Nvidia CS to try to get my SMART info from my HDDs.

In this process, Nvidia tech suggested another set of drivers for my 650i P5N-E SLI on Vista 32-bit. You might want to check them out if you are running the P5N-E SLI 650i on Vista 32-bit:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/nvidia/nforce650i_vista.zip

If you are running nTune, it is recommended to uninstall nTune before upgrading to these drivers, and then install nTune after installing the new drivers and restarting. Also, if UAC is enabled, disable it before doing any of this.
Hope this helps.



yer thanks mate thought id been forgotten lol...yer thats great mate so what did ua think of the proformance from these new drivers then??

is it worth the update then?? an waht version of drivers is this then just so i no..the newest drivers
i could find for are board were the 18.07

thanks a lot mate REP+ coming ur way man...thanks for link


----------



## SketchyFish

so what would u guys say was best RAM at mo 4 me to run im not looking to spend a great deal as no can get some good 800MHz sticks at mo but really wanted some thing bit faster as think my ram is my system bottle neck at mo so wanna make sure thats not true anymore...


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


my first build on this system didn't last 24 hours because the OCZ platinum rev 2's killed two of the DIMM slots on the board.


Yikes!

That's the stuff I was looking at. 2x1GB for $40 after MIR...

The wonky memory controller on this board is a constant source of worry for me. I wish Intel would move to an AMD-like controller and have it on the chip itself. At least I think that's the setup they have.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Yikes!

I wish Intel would move to an AMD-like controller and have it on the chip itself. At least I think that's the setup they have.


Nehalem has an integrated MCH and is scheduled for release in 4Q08.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
so what would u guys say was best RAM at mo 4 me to run im not looking to spend a great deal as no can get some good 800MHz sticks at mo but really wanted some thing bit faster as think my ram is my system bottle neck at mo so wanna make sure thats not true anymore...


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Yikes!

That's the stuff I was looking at. 2x1GB for $40 after MIR...


I really like these corsair dominators. I've been running two of them for a year and two more for about the past week. They're $50 after MIR. I even got that first pair up to 1063MHz at 5C, although they benchmark better at 830MHz 4C (which I believe is due to the P5N-E's MCH).


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Just joining this thread. Trying to OC an X3220, no luck though


----------



## SketchyFish

what are theses sticks like then i like that they r black with the cool flashign lights on top of the ram sticks...are these any good 4 my set up???

and is this a good price for these sticks..1 other ting do i really need ram over 800MHz or do i get be800MHz ram and overclock it to 1000MHz ish do i really need to stock 1000MHz sticks will i see much more power from them on this board??

or is 800MHz more than i need at mo till get new board some time in future?!?!??
most of these high profamnce ramsticks can clock fast speeds anyway so i believe??

these sticks (really sorry if im not allowed to link to this site but couldnt find anything on it so remove it if im not allowed or some 1 tell me an i do it ok)

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...d=8&subcat=817

these are the cheapest prices on this ram i can find or if not this lot then what bout these: http://www.microdirect.co.uk/(18458)...mory-DDR2.aspx

or anythign else any 1 can suggest for me..(again so sorry if im nto allowed to place links but im not advertiseing for em at all ok not spaming either ok but if im braking the rules then il remove em but didnt fancy typeing out all the info from these linsk so could get the help i need so please dont lose it if im bein a bit naughty ok lol)


----------



## Perry

Those would work and work well.

My focus has changed to the 2x2gb Ballistix kit. Under $100 here in Canada after MIR and they overclock very well, even for a 4GB kit.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Crucial Tracers are very nice. AFAIK, it's the same as the ballistix. Nice fast RAM. The lights are kind of gimmiky, though. I used to have a set of the Tracers (2x1GB) I gues the lights are supposed to show off how fast your RAM is working, but I just found them distracting. I am using OCZ Platinum currently, and have been very happy with the stability. Apparently, certain revisions of the OCZ Platinum series do not play nice with the P5N-E though.

If I were looking into another set of curcial ram, I'd go for the 2x2GB Ballistix DDR2 800. - low latency and high OC potential. (They have yellow heat spreaders, and are currently on sale on the Egg (if you order soon, you'll get a free 2GB flash drive out of the deal, lol)

Here:

(2x1GB) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146565

(2x2GB) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820148183


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


I am using OCZ Platinum currently, and have been very happy with the stability. Apparently, certain revisions of the OCZ Platinum series do not play nice with the P5N-E though.


Any idea if you're running the rev. 2's?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Any idea if you're running the rev. 2's?


He's using Rev.2's same as me, Rev 1. won't work on this board for some reason.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

I am not sure if they are Rev0 or Rev1, but I know for certain they are not Rev2's, as the Rev2's have tighter stock timings than mine. I wanna say stock timings for mine are 4-5-4-15. I have 4x1GB running right now in my P5N-E @ 800Mhz 4-4-4-12 with no overvolting.

Can't OC my Xeon on this board though. Won't budge a single MHz w/o issues. I normally have m,y rig set up as my sig shows it, with a P5W DH, and Dual Radeon's. The P5W blew a capacitor, and I am waiting for an RMA. Picked up the P5N as an interim solution, and have paired it with a spare video card (8800GTS 320MB). Great board, but at stock sppeds, but it has shown me no love when trying to OC.

The P5W was pretty bad on quads for a long time too, then a couple of BIOS updates later, and I was rock stable at 3.4GHz. 1000MHz OC on an "ancient" 975X board is none too shabby. Wish the 650i performed as well.

Once my P5W comes back in, I think I am going to get one of those new Celeron's (1.6GHz 420) and drop it into this P5N. Should be able to double the clock speed w/o issue.


----------



## SketchyFish

yer thanks guys for ur help im thinking that bout lights just thought might be nice touch when mod my case but guess ur right bout it bein a gimmick mate.gunna go with the other like ua said mate with the yellow spreaders was the other choice i liked il post the others that ive liked see what u think 4 me yer there only like 30-40 quid in U.K at mo well cheap 4 dam good ram isnt it...cheers for ur views guys...anyother links to good cheap OC ram would be VERY well liked and may even get ua a REP+ hehehe...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Maybe I am wrong about the Rev 2 thing? Pretty sure I don't have Rev 2's though. I am at the office ruight now, will have to check it out when I get home.


----------



## pheoxs

I never knew there were rev 0's before ... thats interesting. Can you check what it says on the sticker? it will say the revision number right on the modules

Edit: Nvm saw that u were at the office


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Dunno if it will work with this board, but these are great modules, and CHEAP -

http://aphnetworks.com/reviews/a_dat...ddr2_800_2x1gb

Not in stock on Newegg, but woth it to look for them. I have used them on my P5W, and they outperform OCZ Reapers for much less $$$

A-Data is an "off" brand, as far as I know, but then so was G.Skill a year or so ago, and now everyone raves about those sticks.

Seriously though - A-Data Extreme. Suprisingly Awesome!

(That should be their marketing slogan, lol)


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Just called home and had my roomie check the model no. I have these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227089

All 4 currently installed in the P5N-E running at DDR2 800 4-4-4-12

No Rev#, so I assume "Rev0" meaning first release?


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


Dunno if it will work with this board, but these are great modules, and CHEAP -

http://aphnetworks.com/reviews/a_dat...ddr2_800_2x1gb

Not in stock on Newegg, but woth it to look for them. I have used them on my P5W, and they outperform OCZ Reapers for much less $$$

A-Data is an "off" brand, as far as I know, but then so was G.Skill a year or so ago, and now everyone raves about those sticks.

Seriously though - A-Data Extreme. Suprisingly Awesome!

(That should be their marketing slogan, lol)


yer im not to bothered bout what the hype or the best kit at the moment that every one wants to have just cause its what 'HOT' at the time,yer not down like that folks....

they look good and the review looks good to not read all tho it yet but thanks mate REP+ for that coming ur way thanks man..what do u think of these then? are they good Ram sticks compared to the other brands in quality and speeds/OC'ablety guess u wouldnt be tellin me there good if u didnt think they were lol lol...





































what sort of speeds can ua get out of these then just as good as other brands yer and are they ok with this board,what about others if an when i change to a newer board when got some pennies and find a worthwhile upgrade to of course!!

im looking for an easy but fast life if get me lol..just getting in to this pro Hardware/Overclocking bit but im learning my A+ at minute,then my N+ then a cisco CCNA degree so im trying to learn how my hardware works so i can get a better understanding of my courses and learn as much as i can stuff in to my head as possible about this dam fine seen thats going on around us..

i love my PC and just cant get enough of this an i think i taken to it quite well for a 'NOOB' as they love to call us lol,only down side i can see to have an amazing watercooled beast that can slay crysis and could run its own local disco with all the light mods and other fine stuff that peeps come up with on the net,and seen some fine bits of kit around here that id love to be able to build my self.

cant wait to get in to the mod sence my self but at mo got bigger things as my missus is nearly done growing my first kid now (33 weeks and counting!)
so got little nit more on my plate then normal but the kids gotta have a PC when it gets here surely?!? lol gotta be a good reason to get some new kit doesnt it?? he/she needs to learn his/her A,B,Cs and all that so why not do it on a quad core monster with triple SLI and more power than a mini substation.lol lol..im right arnt i gotta help me convince my missus tho she cant see it but just cant see why *****.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


Just called home and had my roomie check the model no. I have these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227089

All 4 currently installed in the P5N-E running at DDR2 800 4-4-4-12

No Rev#, so I assume "Rev0" meaning first release?


but i thought that peeps on here having lots of trouble running OCZ ram but not to sure might be wrong..got lots of choice i no that but really need to get it down to a couple of really good sticks maybe even 4GB if i can strech to it lol

does it really make that much more difference to have twice as much again as no over that vista doesnt use it anyway and read that even if have 4GB it might only use 2 or 3GB of it?? is this right or am i far off on this??
i think my RAM is my bottle neck in my system at mo as can see from my sig if have a look..will it make my system or my GPU run better or does it not really work like this..

when i run my vista proformance test to see what number my system is at its the memory the nmy harddrives as their not the best drives either but gotta cut corners when building some were as didnt have that much at all but finally getting their but by time i do have all new klit out again anyway so cant win really lol bu t thats what nice bout it allways something new to do or learn which is what i love...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Haha! I like your logic! Just think too, you'll need a good PC to encode all the home movies of the baby and all!









I Liked the A-Data's. I took them to 1000MHz w/o a sweat. They ran a touch hot, but I bought an Antec SpotCooler for like $15.00 and no worries after that.

I have used A-Data, G.Skill, Corsair XMS, Crucial Tracers, OCZ Platinum and Reaper, Some garbage Mushkin RAM that was DOA. Tested a couple of other variants as well, but these are the brands that I have really puit through their paces. The A-Data's Impressed the hell out of me. They were cheaper than most othe modules I have had, and maintained a higher stable clock than any of the sticks I have personally used. When I got the OCZ Platinums, I expected similar results, but not even close. I can push mine to about 950MHz if I loosen the timings, but that may be because I have 4 stick installed. Keep in mind that 99% of my experience is coming from the P5W DH Deluxe. I have only had the P5N for about a week. And am running it at stock, with somewhat tighter RAM timings.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

If you are OC'ing DDR2 667 to 800, then you would definitely benefit from some faster RAM. These days, you may even consider DDR2 1066, as you can run it at DDR2 800 with super tight timings, and then really open it up when you upgrade to a newer MOBO.

W/ DDR2 800 being as cheap as ti is, 4GB doesn't hurt. I use XP x64 bit, and love it, but Vista is "the wave of the future" so, I will probably upgrade at some point.

As far as the use of the memory by the OS - 32bit OS can only address 4GB of memory, this includes graphics/ sound cards, etc, so if you have a 32 bit OS, you'll most likely only "see" 3.25 GB, maybe a bit more. If I remember right, 32 Bit OS also limits memory addressing for applications to 2GB. So no, no single app would likely use all 4GB.

XP x64, and Vista Ultimate x64 can address something ridiculous like 64GB of RAM, so you'll get all 4GB showing up. I am not sure, but I beleive 32bit apps running on a 64bit OS are still limited to 2GB of addressable memory, but 64bit apps will utilize considerable more than 4GB if it's available. There are, however, very very few 64bit apps outside of commercial applications that will tax a system like that. I use VMWare a good deal, so the extra memory is helpful. I will probably upgrade to 8GB down the road, but fr now, have seen no use for it. Tom's Hardware recently put out an article about 8GB and Vista. It explains mor about the "memory hole" on 32bit OS's, and get's more detailed about the actual performance benefit, if any, of having a buttload (that's a technical term) of ram.

Enjoy:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2008/02/15/vista_workshop/


----------



## SketchyFish

It explains mor about the "memory hole" on 32bit OS's, and get's more detailed about the actual performance benefit, if any, of having a buttload (that's a technical term) of ram.

i like it thats a very good use of techy terms mate A+ on the terms there def lol

thanks mate some good info i wouldnt no were to start with out this site i didnt really no that much about all this side of PCs but learned a lot really have learned lots in only a few days a week or so tops.so looking good im only 3qauters through my A+ but im learning a lot so far an really cant wait to get in to the harder stuff and just soak it all up like a massive geek cross techy sponge thingy lol....

so ur making a good point on the A.DATA sticks im very much likeing the sound of them and would be good to get the faster 1000MHz sticks for sure but looking more like im gunna ave to get the 800MHz for now,but going to try to get the 4GB if i can 1 or the other either 4Gb of 800MHZ or 2GB of 1000MHz so gunna be good either way and looking forward to gettign my system runnin a lot better

cheers for ur time mate REP+ to ua ...

dam tryed to REP+ ua but havent got any left?? guess ave to do it when got some more but def got soem coming from me man thanks...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Thanks!

If you're going with DDR2-800, IMHO, the A-Data Extreme would be the best price/ performance for a 2GB kit, but the real gem right now would be the 2x2gb Crucial Ballistix. You could push them close to 1000MHz or better, and that's w/ 2GB modules! 4GB + the free 2GB flash drive on Newegg.com is a really good deal.

Well, I should probably get some work done, lol. Glad I could help.


----------



## SketchyFish

im in the U.K tho will it cost loads to get Egg to ship to me and is it safe to get it sent out like that wouldnt i be better getting it from somewere over here then??

thought had trouble with OCZ sticks before on this board? or is that diff OCZ ram??

sorry my bad didnt read ur post right mate sorry man...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

I am using the as of yet "underfined revision" of the OCZ Platinum. To be safe, I wouldn't bother with OCZ on this board, too many issues that I have read about. I am using mine, as I don't usually use a P5N-E, this is just a spare board I picked up while I await my RMA'd P5W DH Deluxe from Newegg.com. If I bought this board for my main rig, I would not choose OCZ.

If you're buying brand new memory to use for a while, the Crucial is a great buy.

As far as Newegg shipping to the UK, I would call their customer service. They have great reps that are very helpful, and they will let you know what additional costs you may incur. Then it's just a matter of finding out if you can get it cheaper across the pond!

Have a good one!


----------



## MrQ

In summation, from what you guys say, this is the best stuff for this board

*Kingston* (Stable, a little OCable, but not gaming material)
*Corsair* (Nice timings, OCable, gaming material)
*Crucial* (Best all around)
*A-Data* (Low cost Performance RAM)

Have I got it right?


----------



## SketchyFish

yer cheers guys that good help 4 me im thinking of going for the A.DATA as its cheap as at mo and looks good very fast and very stable at high speeds as read lots of benchmarks that say good quality stuff that just gettign the interest that it should be getting...so if cant find some cheap corsair ram then im going to get my self some of the adata for sure so looking good so cheap at mo cant believe how chea pits got lately was really high last time i looked when i made my system which was bout year or so ago...

thanks for ur helps guys thanks a lot...


----------



## SketchyFish

so by looks of it this is what i got it down to so what do au think is better for my system then these:

Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2 PC2-6400C4 800MHz Dual Channel Kit (BL2KIT12864AA804) This Week offer only so gotta get in there sharp to get em..

info:Module Size: 2GB kit (1GBx2)
- Package: 240-pin DIMM
- Feature: DDR2 PC2-6400
- DIMM Type: UNBUFFERED
- Speed: DDR2-800
- Voltage: 2.2V
- Memory Timings: CL=4
- Warranty: Lifetime

or these from same place:

G.Skill 2GB DDR2 NQ PC2-6400C5 (2x1GB) CAS5 Dual Channel Kit

which are







ackage : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 5-5-5-15 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 1.8-2.0 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

bot hare around 35quid which is amazingly cheap for these but both of em have very good reviews on the site they sale em, so need a hand to choice but im leaning over to first lot the curcial as they have nothing but good said bout em and are loads cheaper than should be at mo







...


----------



## stumped

Wow, I'm trying to get ASUS to RMA my board, and first they tried to give me the BS that they would call me back to set up the RMA. Nothing, they said they don't do that. And then, we called them during "regular" hours, getting the the 2 people who deal with 3rd tim RMAs, and now they are trying to tell me that I bought a used board from newegg when I clearly bought a *RETAIL* board and paid *RETAIL* price. This is total BS, and that's why I'm switching boards.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
I think they covered this on the first page. im sure 4gb will work just as good as 2gb.

Also add in 4X 1GB sticks of Corsair XMS2 for compatibility list

I still dont trust OCZ memory in this board. Even if you have a new rev board. Also, you may have 4 DIMMS working but someone else might not. So it wouldnt be wish to add that to the list.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
The wonky memory controller on this board is a constant source of worry for me. I wish Intel would move to an AMD-like controller and have it on the chip itself. At least I think that's the setup they have.

Why do you think i moved away from an Nvidia chipset. It seems even the 780i doesnt like 4 DIMMS that much.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
so by looks of it this is what i got it down to so what do au think is better for my system then these:

Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2x1GB) DDR2 PC2-6400C4 800MHz Dual Channel Kit (BL2KIT12864AA804) This Week offer only so gotta get in there sharp to get em..

info:Module Size: 2GB kit (1GBx2)
- Package: 240-pin DIMM
- Feature: DDR2 PC2-6400
- DIMM Type: UNBUFFERED
- Speed: DDR2-800
- Voltage: 2.2V
- Memory Timings: CL=4
- Warranty: Lifetime

or these from same place:

G.Skill 2GB DDR2 NQ PC2-6400C5 (2x1GB) CAS5 Dual Channel Kit

which are







ackage : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 5-5-5-15 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 1.8-2.0 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

bot hare around 35quid which is amazingly cheap for these but both of em have very good reviews on the site they sale em, so need a hand to choice but im leaning over to first lot the curcial as they have nothing but good said bout em and are loads cheaper than should be at mo







...

Go with the ballistix, the timings are much better. Granted it takes 0.2 more volts for that memory that the g.skills, but I think the timings will make up for it.


----------



## SketchyFish

what if anything is the diff between all these diff A.DATA ram sticks they all run at 800MHZ and are all round same price but have diff codes so must be some big diff or why sale 3 or 4 diff types round same price mark??

they are:

G.Skill 2GB DDR2 HK PC2-6400C4 (2x1GB) CAS4 Dual Channel Kit (F2-6400CL4D-2GBHK)

info:
- Package : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 4-4-3-5 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 2.0-2.1 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

and these:

G.Skill 2GB DDR2 NQ PC2-6400C5 (2x1GB) CAS5 Dual Channel Kit

info:
Package : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 5-5-5-15 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 1.8-2.0 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

and these:

G.Skill 2GB DDR2 NR PC2-6400C5 (2x1GB) CAS5 Dual Channel Kit (F2-6400

info:
Package : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 5-5-5-5-15 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 1.9-2.0 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

these:
G.Skill 2GB DDR2 PK PC2-6400C4 (2x1GB) CAS4 Dual Channel Kit (F2-6400

info:
- Package : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 4-4-4-12 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 1.9-2.0 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

and last1s these:

G.Skill 2GB DDR2 PK PC2-6400C4 (2x1GB) CAS4 Dual Channel Kit (F2-6400

info:
- Package : 2048MB kit (2x1GB) dual channel pack
- CAS Latency : 4-4-4-12 (PC2-6400)
- Test Voltage : 1.9-2.0 V
- Speed : DDR2 800MHz (PC2-6400)
- Type : 240-pin DDR2
- Error Checking : Non-ECC
- Registered/Unbuffered : Unbuffered
- Quality Control : Comprehensive rigorously tested in pair at dual channel environment
- Warranty : Lifetime

so alltho they more or less sale round the 30 to 40 pound mark they are similar to me and no the speeds are bit diff but maybe some1 else can tell me which are the better and why they are so diff or if they arnt diff at all??

thanks for ur help folks...cant wait to get these new ram sticks in my system now...


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Go with the ballistix, the timings are much better. Granted it takes 0.2 more volts for that memory that the g.skills, but I think the timings will make up for it.


yer this is what im gunna do i think unless some 1 else can find something better but doubt it these are CHEAP really really cheap at mo so gunna def get em id be silly to not get these i think so thanks for all ur helps guys im loving this place man so much info on all parts of PC hardware and some many diff views which is what i think makes a place like this if we all thought the same mods and such would be soooooo boaring wouldnt it!!!

thanks guys if i had REPS+ then id give em out but im all used up today im sorry to say but thanks a lot guys...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Hey Stumped - I was lucky as hell with my RMA. I ordered the P5W DH Deluxe from Newegg on 3/16/07. It died on me on 3/3/08. Now, this doesn't bode well for the product, I know, but in all fairness, I pushed that board as hard as I've ever pushed a MOBO, and it just kept taking it, so maybe I'll ease up a bit this time around.









Anyhow, it dies 13 days INSIDE my Newegg replacement warranty!! So I called them up, they sent me a shipping label, and off it went for replacement, no fuss no muss. To top it off, I get an email, asking me to take a customer satisfaction survey for the Egg, and then 3 days later, I get a Newegg baseball cap in the mail as a thank you for taking the survey! I love that store. Great products, good prices, good service. Now if they would only start bundling items for shipping, so I didn't have to pay $8.00 in shipping for 2 SATA cables, sheesh!


----------



## stumped

The stupid thing is, I haven't even pushed my board to cause it to stop working. First time was all USB stopped working. Then, with the replacement for that, it was DOA. Then 1 month later, the thing stops working. What a PIA!!


----------



## SketchyFish

*** *** *** *** just put my order in for this 2gb or ram should be here in next 2 days peeps so cant wait get this in an oc it see how makes my system run in games now.so BF2 here i come *** *** *** thanks for ur help in picking for me helped me out loads guys would of been lost other wise so cheers ...


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


Hey Stumped - I was lucky as hell with my RMA. I ordered the P5W DH Deluxe from Newegg on 3/16/07. It died on me on 3/3/08. Now, this doesn't bode well for the product, I know, but in all fairness, I pushed that board as hard as I've ever pushed a MOBO, and it just kept taking it, so maybe I'll ease up a bit this time around.









Anyhow, it dies 13 days INSIDE my Newegg replacement warranty!! So I called them up, they sent me a shipping label, and off it went for replacement, no fuss no muss. To top it off, I get an email, asking me to take a customer satisfaction survey for the Egg, and then 3 days later, I get a Newegg baseball cap in the mail as a thank you for taking the survey! I love that store. Great products, good prices, good service. Now if they would only start bundling items for shipping, so I didn't have to pay $8.00 in shipping for 2 SATA cables, sheesh!


word. the egg is fantastic in every way except their shipping costs. i really do think they should knock down some of the shipping fees for bulk purchases. If I buy a whole rig from them, I don't wanna pay $50 to ship it.


----------



## MrQ

BF2????? You have got to be kidding me. My brothers P4 could kick butt on BF2. If you really want to benchmark you system run Crysis. It played heck on my system and really put it through its paces. This was after I had oced it to 3ghz. Don't expect much from the story but expect all from the graphics.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


yer thanks mate thought id been forgotten lol...yer thats great mate so what did ua think of the proformance from these new drivers then??

is it worth the update then?? an waht version of drivers is this then just so i no..the newest drivers
i could find for are board were the 18.07

thanks a lot mate REP+ coming ur way man...thanks for link


With all honesty, mate...I preferred the 169's. These ones I just found out (checked the boot post), that these recommended by Nvidia for my troubleshooting of the SMART readings are actually a version of the 162.XXX's. My GPU was running a couple of degrees cooler w the 169's (the algorithm used in these drivers?). 
But they have not failed, and I do have a lot of headroom in GPU temperature-right now my GPU is working at 52 degrees at idle, and around 65-70 on load and Overclocked, so I'm happy with these if we can get my SMART to be reported.
Glad I could help. 
And thanks for the Rec, mate.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


yer this is what im gunna do i think unless some 1 else can find something better but doubt it these are CHEAP really really cheap at mo so gunna def get em id be silly to not get these i think so thanks for all ur helps guys im loving this place man so much info on all parts of PC hardware and some many diff views which is what i think makes a place like this if we all thought the same mods and such would be soooooo boaring wouldnt it!!!

thanks guys if i had REPS+ then id give em out but im all used up today im sorry to say but thanks a lot guys...


You might want to check the Corsairs w the DHX heatsink (Dominator-type), they are on sale right now at tigerdirect for less than $50 for two one gig sticks of 6400, I'm sure the egg must have a sale also.

Before going for my 4GB, I was very happy with my Dominators...just swapped 'cause I needed 4GB for my things, and back then 4 sticks of doms 1066s was too expensive for me.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


BF2????? You have got to be kidding me. My brothers P4 could kick butt on BF2. If you really want to benchmark you system run Crysis. It played heck on my system and really put it through its paces. This was after I had oced it to 3ghz. Don't expect much from the story but expect all from the graphics.


yer not to bench my system just a game i love mate.lol no its not gunan tax my system but just love playing it anf other version to BF2142 is what i was in to but yer gunna go get my self couple new games got the orange pack other day but so small game i finished it in day an half an i love halflife but just so short and the first part of part2 was the same da mfine games but coem on make me bit longer init!!

an tribeca im in U.K mate so nothing from U.S sites im sorry to say as have found some nice deals but by time its sent to me in U.K its more than getitng it from my cheap stores so thanks for links guys but cant do much with em
















ive ordered these now anyway as cheap as hell from what ive seen em on other sites which are up to 150quid at some shops!!! i payed 35quid with p&p
so cant complain if not the best cutting edge sticks..think these are amazing for the price every1 seems to have said good things on the site io got em from (overclockers UK) which is a dam good place if live in U.K peeps..

my mate got a whole rig from them free P&P and when his ATI 1950XTX went strange on him (heatsink paste dryed out i think!!!) they sent him out a new 1 strait away no hassle..and had a lot of my mates have similar things with this company...


----------



## scottk

Ok, I figure everyone here has cpuz loaded as well, hence the OT post. AVG just quarantined my version of cpuz.exe saying it had generic9.blrv. I just updated signatures so maybe just a false alarm, but figured I'd let you guys know - I'm like 99% sure I got the "official" copy from cpuid so I assume it's a false report but u never know I guess...

never mind lol, checked the google on the interwebs and apparently is just false positive


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Out of curiosity, What CPU would be the best cost/ performance choice for this board? I have a P5W DH that I am waiting to get back from newegg (had to RMA), and am using the P5N-E with my Quad-Core Xeon until I get my P5W back. This board is a great OC'er from what I have read, but I can't push very much out of my quad (can't even get to 3GHz). Once I rebuild with my P5W, I am thinking of keeping this, and building a second rig. I have been eyeballing the new Celeron Conroe-L's, but am not convinced that single core is a good idea anymore. I have had my eye on ther E2160 as well. Basically, I don't want to spend too much on the second rig. It will have the P5N-E, and an EVGA 8800GTS (320MB). Ram is cheap, so I will pick up a pair of Crucial Ballistix, and then I just need a CPU to make it "complete". ANy ideas? Keeping in mind that this will be a budget box?


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Also, I'll want to overclock the hell out of it. (Obviously) lol


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottk* 
Ok, I figure everyone here has cpuz loaded as well, hence the OT post. AVG just quarantined my version of cpuz.exe saying it had generic9.blrv. I just updated signatures so maybe just a false alarm, but figured I'd let you guys know - I'm like 99% sure I got the "official" copy from cpuid so I assume it's a false report but u never know I guess...

never mind lol, checked the google on the interwebs and apparently is just false positive

yer ur probly be ok mate lots of us have had this it is from what ive been told and have read its just a mistake that an updated AVG sig will get rid of so dont worrie bout it havent got that sort of trojan at all ok...i had the same a freaked cause its a naughty 1 if it was real but its not its a false positive...

so dont freak man be ok...


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie* 
Out of curiosity, What CPU would be the best cost/ performance choice for this board? I have a P5W DH that I am waiting to get back from newegg (had to RMA), and am using the P5N-E with my Quad-Core Xeon until I get my P5W back. This board is a great OC'er from what I have read, but I can't push very much out of my quad (can't even get to 3GHz). Once I rebuild with my P5W, I am thinking of keeping this, and building a second rig. I have been eyeballing the new Celeron Conroe-L's, but am not convinced that single core is a good idea anymore. I have had my eye on ther E2160 as well. Basically, I don't want to spend too much on the second rig. It will have the P5N-E, and an EVGA 8800GTS (320MB). Ram is cheap, so I will pick up a pair of Crucial Ballistix, and then I just need a CPU to make it "complete". ANy ideas? Keeping in mind that this will be a budget box?

e2180 all the way. It was on sale for $50 after MIR a couple weeks ago, see if you can track down a price like that again.


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
yer ur probly be ok mate lots of us have had this it is from what ive been told and have read its just a mistake that an updated AVG sig will get rid of so dont worrie bout it havent got that sort of trojan at all ok...i had the same a freaked cause its a naughty 1 if it was real but its not its a false positive...

so dont freak man be ok...


yeah, it popped up again in latest avg signatures I got yesterday 3/11, it changed the ID to generic9.lrvb I think. I assume it's just a common mistake avg keeps making.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

What would be the advantage of the E2180 vs. say, even an E2140? (Aside from multiplier values) Both are Allendale's, and I plan to OC it, so the 400MHz speed difference is not really important to me. @ $50.00, there is no question, however I more often see these priced closer to $90.00, whereas the E2140 comes in closer to $60.00.

Anyone know of any benchmarks of the Conroe-L Celerons? For $40.00, I am finding the Celeron 420 very appealing. Just don't know if I'd be tossing $$ in the wind buying a single core chip. They are essentially a Core Solo for the desktop, from what I understand though, and OC very well.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
yer not to bench my system just a game i love mate.lol no its not gunan tax my system but just love playing it anf other version to BF2142 is what i was in to but yer gunna go get my self couple new games got the orange pack other day but so small game i finished it in day an half an i love halflife but just so short and the first part of part2 was the same da mfine games but coem on make me bit longer init!!

an tribeca im in U.K mate so nothing from U.S sites im sorry to say as have found some nice deals but by time its sent to me in U.K its more than getitng it from my cheap stores so thanks for links guys but cant do much with em
















ive ordered these now anyway as cheap as hell from what ive seen em on other sites which are up to 150quid at some shops!!! i payed 35quid with p&p
so cant complain if not the best cutting edge sticks..think these are amazing for the price every1 seems to have said good things on the site io got em from (overclockers UK) which is a dam good place if live in U.K peeps..

my mate got a whole rig from them free P&P and when his ATI 1950XTX went strange on him (heatsink paste dryed out i think!!!) they sent him out a new 1 strait away no hassle..and had a lot of my mates have similar things with this company...

I know I love Half Life. I pre-ordered the Orange Box and beat Episode 2 in 5 hours. Kind of a shame, I wanted something longer, but the storylines rock!! Yeah I don't see what you get out of BF2, thats kind of an average old game. Now 2142, I would love to get my hands on that!

BTW do you play day of defeat source?


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I know I love Half Life. I pre-ordered the Orange Box and beat Episode 2 in 5 hours. Kind of a shame, I wanted something longer, but the storylines rock!! Yeah I don't see what you get out of BF2, thats kind of an average old game. Now 2142, I would love to get my hands on that!

BTW do you play day of defeat source?


no ive not diped my toe in that 1 yet ive got the half life multi player game that comes in orange box think its the cartoony 1 cant think what its called if play that..an yer am getting bit board of BF2 but was my first go at online gaming so do lie kit an yer BF2142 is loads better even more so now that newish update gives more helicopters and tanks at once in a level which makes for better game play i think,more death and guts lol lol...

yer my first ever go at PC games was half life so im kinda in love with the games that half the reason i got a pc again after my old school P2 rig years ago that had the first GPU graphics card the geforce orignal card which was amazing at the time and ran half life really well as most pc had built in CPU graphics and were crap lol lol,but it soon got out of date and i left the pc world for good few years but im back as i said im doing a cisco CCNA course so what best way to learn than from this point of view of overclocking ur pc to the best that it will run...

so yer cant wait to get my new ram sticks in next few days and see if it makes my pc more stable,and run it at 1:1 ratio which i cant do with my pants PC-5300 kingston ram that runs at 667MHz i think?? but can get it to run at 800MHz with what was told to run the timings at which was i think 5-5-5-18 which were a LOT tighter than stock which again think is 6-6-6-32!!! or something like that whiich is p**s poor i guess....

is there any more good games that ua think i should have a look in to then?? find that they all get to be much of the same thing just diff so called stories if ua like!! so not to in to games on pc at mo but id love there to be more good games out an id get right back in to it im def gunna get COD4 soon as some my mates play that as well as BF2142 so yer if any ua want a game on BF2142 im 'sketchyfish100' on there add me an were ave a good fraging game if ua fancy im not mental at it an dont take it that serious but love a good laugh and good game tho dont get me wrong but not gunna shout at ua like some of the dicks ive played with when dont do it like ur a SAS solider or whatever they think they are lol lol get over it init!!!!


----------



## MrQ

The cartoony one is Team Fortress 2 which is a heck of a lot better than the original. I like that one unfortunately very few people I know play it so I generally don't play it as much. I am mostly into Day of Defeat Source. My friends and I have a custom map server that we play on. We usually get plenty of people.

Games to check out for fun:

Day of Defeat Source (Multi)
Counter Strike Source (Multi)
Portal (Single)
Team Fortress 2 (Multi)
Quake 4 (Single)
Doom 3 (Single)

Games to check out for benchmarking:

Crysis (Single + Multi)
Bioshock (Single)

Quote:

so yer cant wait to get my new ram sticks in next few days and see if it makes my pc more stable,and run it at 1:1 ratio which i cant do with my pants PC-5300 kingston ram that runs at 667MHz i think?? but can get it to run at 800MHz with what was told to run the timings at which was i think 5-5-5-18 which were a LOT tighter than stock which again think is 6-6-6-32!!! or something like that whiich is p**s poor i guess....
Try to overclock to 3ghz by running FSB 1333 and Mem 667 to keep a 1:1 ratio. Thats what I have to do with my quad. It essentially the same core as yours. BTW, my old Kingston 6400 ran at 5-5-5-18 and sometimes 5-5-5-23!!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie* 
What would be the advantage of the E2180 vs. say, even an E2140? (Aside from multiplier values) Both are Allendale's, and I plan to OC it, so the 400MHz speed difference is not really important to me. @ $50.00, there is no question, however I more often see these priced closer to $90.00, whereas the E2140 comes in closer to $60.00.

Anyone know of any benchmarks of the Conroe-L Celerons? For $40.00, I am finding the Celeron 420 very appealing. Just don't know if I'd be tossing $$ in the wind buying a single core chip. They are essentially a Core Solo for the desktop, from what I understand though, and OC very well.

The advantage is all in the multi. You'll get faster speeds out of it because of the higher multi. I wouldn't touch a celeron 420. If price is that much of an issue go for the e2140. The extra core will buy you a ton on the benchmarks and, more importantly, in real system performance. The extra core, in simplified terms (and therefore somewhat inaccurate terms, but still useful for getting your head around it), means that when your computer is doing something hard (like playing a game, or doing number crunching of any sort, or encoding video, or whatever) it can dedicate an entire core to that, and handle all of the OS stuff (running windows, your AV software, web browsing, or whatever) on the other core. In a single core system, all of those different things have to compete for the same processing resources. So for like 90%, or more, of real applications a 3GHz dual-core processor will outperform a 4GHz single-core processor, everything else being equal.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
The cartoony one is Team Fortress 2 which is a heck of a lot better than the original. I like that one unfortunately very few people I know play it so I generally don't play it as much. I am mostly into Day of Defeat Source. My friends and I have a custom map server that we play on. We usually get plenty of people.

Games to check out for fun:

Day of Defeat Source (Multi)
Counter Strike Source (Multi)
Portal (Single)
Team Fortress 2 (Multi)
Quake 4 (Single)
Doom 3 (Single)

Games to check out for benchmarking:

Crysis (Single + Multi)
Bioshock (Single)
Try to overclock to 3ghz by running FSB 1333 and Mem 667 to keep a 1:1 ratio. Thats what I have to do with my quad. It essentially the same core as yours. BTW, my old Kingston 6400 ran at 5-5-5-18 and sometimes 5-5-5-23!!


just had enough of vista not having support as said other day got baby on way soon so need my printer to work and it wont nor will my web cam which isnt much but im gunan reinstall it on the other sata2 drive thats in my pc but the main reason is its just so much quicker to install XP then vista from what ive found... im gunan run both as i need XP to run my college softwware so i had to take the plunge to reinstall it at some point as ive got an empty drive stiing in my pc not bein uised so gunna dual bot it with XP pro to use all the software that vista wont run.not wure which 1 to run my games on yet im gunan do few tests see which is best once my ra mgets here which should be tomorrow i hope...

as ofr games im gunan check out few them had doom3 on xbox and have played it on PC once or twice and ive got bioshock i went tho that real quickly i thought but da mgood game tho real nice water effects and that i thought so back to xp aftyer giveing vista dam good try out,i do love it and would still be running it if i didnt try to install soem new chipset drivers and it went tits up on me so i tryed to reinstall vista but my sound card and mouse didnt instasll right so i gave up and put XP back on lol lol..i so wanna just use vista but im let down by not enough support for some my kit...

not buying a new printer just cause bill gates ****ed up!!!

so what drivers do u all suggest that i use fro XP pro and were can i find SP3 i hear that its out now as well as some new drivers for nvidia chipset and the 8600GTS GPU but all i could find were old 2007 drivers for xp??

and the same for my Xfi pro gamer card but again only 2007 drivers but they had a beta from this month but after all last few days sod that lol...

so i lost a LOT of files and stuff but i couldtn bac kany it up as i had virus in my syste mand didnt wanna copy that over to my next fresh install!!!

but im back gunna take few days to get my system back to how i liek it then gotta redo it all over for vista again lol lol...

but least i got some stable OS for a bit init!!!


----------



## MrQ

Drivers for gpu:

http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_169.21_whql.html

As for chipset drivers use the ones off the disc. Don't mess with them unless you have an issue.

Windows XP SP3 Info

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

SP3 Download
http://www.softpedia.com/progDownloa...oad-90001.html
This help?


----------



## nytevizion

Question for the P5N-e owners. Still trying to sort a friends PC problems from across the country.

He is running SLI 8800gt's in his P5N-e with an E6750. Bios settings are damn close to stock after a reset.

At start up, he is getting several (about 14) rapid beeps before the computer starts to load windows. After windows is loaded, he is getting BSOD's while gaming. Sometimes having NV4 in the description. He doesn't see any post error messages.

Does this sound like a power supply problem? Supposedly he is running a 700watt SLI capable PSU.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Drivers for gpu:

http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp_169.21_whql.html

As for chipset drivers use the ones off the disc. Don't mess with them unless you have an issue.

Windows XP SP3 Info

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

SP3 Download
http://www.softpedia.com/progDownloa...oad-90001.html
This help?


cheers Mr.Q thanks for the links mate...going to have a read of the SP3 bit now ua think it makes a big dif or not and did i read somewere that they have made DX10 for XP or is that not right?

anyother stuff i should have or need for xp?

so do u use the drivers that came with ur mainboard still then?? i thought the updated drivers would be a good thing for a motherboard made things run better as they got to now it more.is it not like that with chipset drivers then i allways have a look about for new drivers thinkin that im doing good as they get better with age of they fix problems as go on so im not allways doing best thing then is that what ua mean?

i allways make sure that its working right or that people say its worth the update as no its nto alwlays best to do...


----------



## Gauvenator

So I'm planning on adding some cooling to the vregs on this motherboard. Which one's need it most?


----------



## Asce

ive circled the ones you need in red.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


ive circled the ones you need in red.











Awesome thanks Rep+

You think this will let me get a more stable OC? Or possibly less voltage at my current one?

Oh and what about this one, should I cool it anyway if I have extra heatsinks?


----------



## Asce

I cant remember what that one does and 636 pages is too many to search through. It may help you get a higher OC but thats it, i would do the pencil mod if you want a stable OC with a lower vcore.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I cant remember what that one does and 636 pages is too many to search through. It may help you get a higher OC but thats it, i would do the pencil mod if you want a stable OC with a lower vcore.


I would like to do the pencil mod, as long as there aren't any side effects if you do it correctly. .08 vdroop is annoying.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nytevizion* 
Question for the P5N-e owners. Still trying to sort a friends PC problems from across the country.

He is running SLI 8800gt's in his P5N-e with an E6750. Bios settings are damn close to stock after a reset.

At start up, he is getting several (about 14) rapid beeps before the computer starts to load windows. After windows is loaded, he is getting BSOD's while gaming. Sometimes having NV4 in the description. He doesn't see any post error messages.

Does this sound like a power supply problem? Supposedly he is running a 700watt SLI capable PSU.

I very much doubt it. Sounds like a problem with boot up not windows. Check here for the beeps he is getting. http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/awardbeep.htm

Quote:

cheers Mr.Q thanks for the links mate...going to have a read of the SP3 bit now ua think it makes a big dif or not and did i read somewere that they have made DX10 for XP or is that not right?

anyother stuff i should have or need for xp?

so do u use the drivers that came with ur mainboard still then?? i thought the updated drivers would be a good thing for a motherboard made things run better as they got to now it more.is it not like that with chipset drivers then i allways have a look about for new drivers thinkin that im doing good as they get better with age of they fix problems as go on so im not allways doing best thing then is that what ua mean?

i allways make sure that its working right or that people say its worth the update as no its nto alwlays best to do...
Yeah. The only thing I updated was my audio drivers. Just leave the chipset drivers alone unless you are having an issue with them


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Awesome thanks Rep+

You think this will let me get a more stable OC? Or possibly less voltage at my current one?

Oh and what about this one, should I cool it anyway if I have extra heatsinks?











That one is tough to get a good sink onto. Clearance to the Zalman CPU_HS bracket is about 10mm, and for the stock intel cooler about 6mm, basically no taller than the cap right next to it.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nytevizion* 
Question for the P5N-e owners. Still trying to sort a friends PC problems from across the country.

He is running SLI 8800gt's in his P5N-e with an E6750. Bios settings are damn close to stock after a reset.

At start up, he is getting several (about 14) rapid beeps before the computer starts to load windows. After windows is loaded, he is getting BSOD's while gaming. Sometimes having NV4 in the description. He doesn't see any post error messages.

Does this sound like a power supply problem? Supposedly he is running a 700watt SLI capable PSU.


Sounds like RAM to me. What kind of RAM is he running? Has he manually set voltage and timings to stock? Does he get memtest errors? Does he get the beeps if he removes all but one stick and tries it in different slots (and changes to another stick if that one doesn't work)?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
That one is tough to get a good sink onto. Clearance to the Zalman CPU_HS bracket is about 10mm, and for the stock intel cooler about 6mm, basically no taller than the cap right next to it.

The Zalman vram sinks I used (the blue anodized aluminum ones) fit great in there.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
cheers Mr.Q thanks for the links mate...going to have a read of the SP3 bit now ua think it makes a big dif or not and did i read somewere that they have made DX10 for XP or is that not right?

anyother stuff i should have or need for xp?

so do u use the drivers that came with ur mainboard still then?? i thought the updated drivers would be a good thing for a motherboard made things run better as they got to now it more.is it not like that with chipset drivers then i allways have a look about for new drivers thinkin that im doing good as they get better with age of they fix problems as go on so im not allways doing best thing then is that what ua mean?

i allways make sure that its working right or that people say its worth the update as no its nto alwlays best to do...

got my xp pro syste mstable and running ok so it seems with all my syste mdrivers in and looking ok gotta redo my xfi porograms like the console and that but the driver is in place and upto date but havent got my progra mdisk to hand(under loads of junk!!LOL)

so got my SP3 pack in and latest DX as well gunna install 3dmark now see how its dif to vista as i got my scores wrote down for vista...

gota get my new frezzer pro7 on my CD2 soon and gunan add those blue chips liek ua said as well got a maplins in my town thats sales em chip so gunan go get a few soon as then with better ram im gettign tomorrow il be much better to overclock my system without worrieing bout heat and that ... *** ***
so thanks mate...heres to useing my printer then *****....


----------



## nytevizion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Sounds like RAM to me. What kind of RAM is he running? Has he manually set voltage and timings to stock? Does he get memtest errors? Does he get the beeps if he removes all but one stick and tries it in different slots (and changes to another stick if that one doesn't work)?


No, he is basically at stock settings within the bios from a reset, except for a few settings... I will take him through the process of setting the ram timings and voltages manually.

Thanks.

The beep codes produce no sort of sequence, just very rapid, short but several of them.


----------



## TriBeCa

That *sounds* like the beeps I get on my board when I try to POST with no RAM installed, but I'm not sure if it's exactly the same code. Memtest is your sure-fire way to see if it's a memory problem....


----------



## MrQ

From the chart I sent you and what you describe it could be the cpu overheating or a ram issue. I suggest you check both.


----------



## arcstrider

I just recently built a new system for my little cousin with this motherboard using a Core 2 Duo 6320 and 2GB of OCZ Platinum XTC Rev.2 DDR2-800 RAM. However, it won't let me overclock my CPU. In the bios, I put the Overclock option to "Manual" but the pverclocking is still locked and I have no way of accessing it. Is there anything I can do about this? If there is more information that you require, please let me know. Thanks


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arcstrider*


I just recently built a new system for my little cousin with this motherboard using a Core 2 Duo 6320 and 2GB of OCZ Platinum XTC Rev.2 DDR2-800 RAM. However, it won't let me overclock my CPU. In the bios, I put the Overclock option to "Manual" but the pverclocking is still locked and I have no way of accessing it. Is there anything I can do about this? If there is more information that you require, please let me know. Thanks










You've gotta go into the JumperFree Configuration settings under the advanced tab to get to the OC'ing options.


----------



## arcstrider

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


You've gotta go into the JumperFree Configuration settings under the advanced tab to get to the OC'ing options.


yup, i've done that and i've put it to "Manual". The overclocking options are still locked though


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arcstrider*


yup, i've done that and i've put it to "Manual". The overclocking options are still locked though










under FSB Configuration is anything locked?


----------



## MrQ

What is the BIOS number? When you boot hit tab and go to post and it should tell you on that screen "BIOS ****" where * is the number.


----------



## arcstrider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
What is the BIOS number? When you boot hit tab and go to post and it should tell you on that screen "BIOS ****" where * is the number.

i don't have the computer with me but i updated it to the newest one. it should be 0901 if i remember correctly


----------



## nytevizion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


From the chart I sent you and what you describe it could be the cpu overheating or a ram issue. I suggest you check both.


He is litterally going to ship his computer to me since he is sick of screwing around with it. That will solve the problems because it's too hard to do this over email and phone calls. Plus then I can overclock it without him knowing any better.


----------



## r0b126

anyone able to post step by step, safe instructions for removing the north bridge heatsink off this motherboard? I want to apply artic silver to the NB, but the plastic pegs that hold this heatsink down are fish hooked into the mobo. I tried squeezing the bottom of the pegs together on the under side of the mobo with tweezers, but they won't squeeze together at all. I don't want to rip the heatsink off the mobo and damage the pegs because I won't be able to mount the heatsink back on if I do.


----------



## r0b126

scratch that, pliers worked great


----------



## stumped

Ok, i'm replacing my P5N-E SLI with the gigabyte GA-EP35-DS4. Good luck to every one here with their P5N-E SLI. I know I won't be looking back!


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


anyone able to post step by step, safe instructions for removing the north bridge heatsink off this motherboard? I want to apply artic silver to the NB, but the plastic pegs that hold this heatsink down are fish hooked into the mobo. I tried squeezing the bottom of the pegs together on the under side of the mobo with tweezers, but they won't squeeze together at all. I don't want to rip the heatsink off the mobo and damage the pegs because I won't be able to mount the heatsink back on if I do.


*To Remove the HS *

1. Use needlenose pliers to squish the pins in the back.
2. Pull up gently but firmly on the top of the pins until they are removed.
*
Clean the NB an Apply TIM*

1. Use a TIM cleaning solution (or what I used, 95% isopropyl alcohol) to clean the thermal grease off the NB and the heat sink.
2. Apply a small bit of AS5 to the clean HS.

*Re-attach NB*

1. remount it by reversing the steps to remove the HS.
2. Make sure the pins are pushed down ALL THE WAY.
3. Your done! Check you temps to make sure the HS makes a solid seal to the NB.

This what you need?


----------



## SketchyFish

woo got my new ra mtoday and pleased to say love the looks of it the little sliver of meta lallround the outsides of em looks real nice.but the most importnant thing is what timesing do i use then??

anyohter info i should no bout useing them to their best!!

cheers guys...


----------



## MrQ

The timings are 4-4-4-12. If you are going to overclock you are going to have to loosen them up a little though.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
The timings are 4-4-4-12. If you are going to overclock you are going to have to loosen them up a little though.

yer ive found the ssetting in cpu-z which there nto set at by auto so gunan reboot an set em to stock at first just see what thats like









but wwhen get new cpu cooler and refit the NB with proper heat paste as well as the SB going to fit a cooler that suggest on front page all need then is nice monitor and 2 good graphics cards which im going to ave to get 1 at time









then be laughin got my nice set up then for a while at least lol...lol..lol..

so if i go to 3GHz like i can do with out it getting to hot (not sure on temps as redid my paste few days ago an havent tryed my overclock again had it on 20% asus overclock!!) then what timings ua think i can use with out stressin it all out to much,full on timings will be cool to for when get my board cooled right!!

cheers mate...lookign good so far an not even right timeings


----------



## SketchyFish

ive got my cpu at 3GHz and my ram at 800MHz but not 1:1 ratio tho still cnat boot with the stock timings linked but unlinked im ok..il post temps in bit..

so ive havent got bang on 2.00v in my bios so do i use the next notch up which think is 2.259 or notch down which think is 1.785 or round there!!

got all other at auto tryed my NB at 1.456 but it didnt boot linked so were do ua think im going wrong then???

any hints?? and nvidia ntune cant tell me what make my ram is its says unkown?? surely it can tell what im useing it used to say my old ram name???


----------



## MrQ

Leave it unlinked. FSB at 1333 RAM at 800Mhz. Don't mess with the NB. I try not to that thing gets unreasonably hot when any extra voltage is applied. Leave everything auto. Are you on BIOS 0608


----------



## SketchyFish

no im on the newest version 0901 so gunan need to redo it back to 0608 i think it is? sure ua told me that before an guide in here soemwere isnt there..

will my xfi card still work ok with out the 08** bios update...

thought it was best to run it linked?
how far do ua think i can overclock these sticks as well not that i really need to....

ive just noticed ive got SLI ready ram as its saying it on my post screen so do i need to turn this on an what setting do i use cpumax or expert???

or dont i use this as havent got sli gpu set up going on so can i sue this still will it make any difference...and it wasnt NB i turned up was V.core and put it on 1.456 i think was but put it back to auto now..


----------



## MrQ

Yeah click the link in my sig on how to get 3ghz on Q6600, diddler posted a way to downgrade the BIOS. No just leave it unlinked, its the best way to have full control on what you boot up on. If you link it the board will decide whats best off what you put in and sometimes it doesn't do it right.

Also disregard nvidia ntune. Use CPU-Z to identify your ram.


----------



## SketchyFish

what bout the sli ready memory its saying in post can i turn that on is it worth turning on??
what does it even do??

and do i need to be using sli gpu's no thats probly silly Q lol lol


----------



## MrQ

Yes turn on the SLI mode for your RAM. It helps.

AND YES RUN SLI GPU'S!!!!

I hope to get another 8800GTS 320MB soon to run SLI in my system.


----------



## MrQ

Hey Ya'll I posted some new pics in my gallery. This is by far the nicest one of the inside of Blue Flood.










I know it looks kind of messy, but believe me it would be a whole lot worse if I didn't stuff half of those wires in the 5 1/2in drive bays. I really need a modular PSU, but thats when $$$ comes in.


----------



## High Roller

Hi, im new to all of this overclocking stuff and have just started looking into it. I bought a Q6600 thinking it would be great to overclock and my motherboard supports it. great. However, ive heard this motherboard is not to good to overclock with my choice of CPU. Does anyone know of the *Best* configuration to use, which BIOS release to use etc. and anything ive missed. Help!


----------



## MrQ

Check this thread here http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...p5n-e-sli.html

Especially this post here http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

BIOS 0608 is the best and the post I just gave you shows how to downgrade, if you need to, as well as the best way to overclock a Q6600 on this board.


----------



## High Roller

thats sweet, thanks for the info
ill post to let you know how it goes


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Yes turn on the SLI mode for your RAM. It helps.

AND YES RUN SLI GPU'S!!!!

I hope to get another 8800GTS 320MB soon to run SLI in my system.


wish i had two cards to run sli just ment can i use the setting for my ra mnot my graphics card as ive only got 1 lonely card at mo an its not worth running this in sli lol only a 8600GTS...

what settign do i put it on theres liek a % in the option to turn it on or their is expertmode which do u use??


----------



## Wheresatom

Hey everyone. I have been lurking in this thread for about 2 weeks now, trying to read when I have a chance, and research overclocking specific to my motherboard. I still have not tried anything because frankly I think I have educated myself just enough to confuse myself. I am tired of waiting so I really just wanted to introduce myself and see if I can get some help.

My system:
Processor: E6420 (still at stock speeds)
Bios: 0803
RAM: G.Skill DDR2 800

Questions:
1) Ok, when I open core temp, to look at my temperatures, it says Frequency: 2133.34 MHz *(266.67x8)*

This is where the money is at really right? That frequency is the holy grail of overclocking from my understanding. My processor comes with a max of 8 as the multiplier so the 266.67 (Â¿the front side bus?) is where we make our changes.

But on our board, we have to multiply the FSB by 4 and enter it in the BIOS where it says FSB(QDR)MHz [1066]

Just for ****s and giggles one night I tried changing this number, and made it 1100 or something, and my computer would not post. Is that because of voltage or do I have to pick specific numbers not just random stuff?

2) Memory speed. I guess I just don't understand this. My memory is DDR2 800 so I would think it's max frequency was 800. The BIOS already says MEM (DDR) MHz [1067].

How does changing that number affect things?

Thank you all in advance for your help. If I had known a couple weeks ago when I started reading this thread that a "Search Thread" button appeared when you registered, my time could have been better spent.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wheresatom*


Hey everyone. I have been lurking in this thread for about 2 weeks now, trying to read when I have a chance, and research overclocking specific to my motherboard. I still have not tried anything because frankly I think I have educated myself just enough to confuse myself. I am tired of waiting so I really just wanted to introduce myself and see if I can get some help.

My system:
Processor: E6420 (still at stock speeds)
Bios: 0803
RAM: G.Skill DDR2 800

Questions:
1) Ok, when I open core temp, to look at my temperatures, it says Frequency: 2133.34 MHz *(266.67x8)*

This is where the money is at really right? That frequency is the holy grail of overclocking from my understanding. My processor comes with a max of 8 as the multiplier so the 266.67 (Â¿the front side bus?) is where we make our changes.

But on our board, we have to multiply the FSB by 4 and enter it in the BIOS where it says FSB(QDR)MHz [1066]

Just for ****s and giggles one night I tried changing this number, and made it 1100 or something, and my computer would not post. Is that because of voltage or do I have to pick specific numbers not just random stuff?

2) Memory speed. I guess I just don't understand this. My memory is DDR2 800 so I would think it's max frequency was 800. The BIOS already says MEM (DDR) MHz [1067].

How does changing that number affect things?

Thank you all in advance for your help. If I had known a couple weeks ago when I started reading this thread that a "Search Thread" button appeared when you registered, my time could have been better spent.



Changiong the FSB number helps you change the frequency of the CPU. In other words making it go faster.

1. The Quadrupled FSB/CPU FSB number is really interesting. yes when it says 266.7x8 = 2133 it does mean that but to actually get the gigahertz you are going for you need to find the quadrupled FSB so here we go...MATH TIME!!

Your multiplier is 8
Your CPU FSB speed is 266.7 (We will touch on this in a bit)
Your CPU Speed is 2.13ghz
Your Quadrupled FSB is 1066 (In essence 266.7x4)

Say we want 3ghz, what does our FSB need to be with a 8x multi? And since we need to input the Quadrupled rate in the FSB box for the P5N we need to divide that number by 2

*1)Thus this equation F=S/M (Where F is CPU FSB, S is speed you want, and M is the multiplier) to get the CPU FSB.*

*2)To get the Quadrupled FSB use this equation QF=S/2 (Where QF is the Quadrupled FSB)*

So to get 3ghz we need to know the quadrupled FSB we use equation 2)

QF = 3000(in mhz)/2

QF = 1500 on an 8x multi

The equations in bold will help you determin the CPU FSB and the Quadrupled FSB

2. The memory is DDR which means double data rate in essence 2x the FSB of the memory. Thus the memory that says it is 667mhz is really 333.5x2.

Also when it say the memory is PC5400, PC6700, and PC8000 they are really representing these frequencies 667mhz, 800mhz, and 1066mhz, respectively.

This help or make you dizzy? LOL. First time I tried to get my head around it I was really in a pickle. I hope this makes sense and answers your question.


----------



## Wheresatom

Thank you so much for clarifying that. That was pretty much what I was thinking, but your explanation was very reassuring.

If I were to go into the BIOS and just change the FSB (and probably the voltage) but leave the DDR rate the same for the time being, would that be ok? Also, what voltage should I be looking at for the processor? I know the lower the better, but should I just start at 1.5 and work down until things get unstable?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wheresatom*


Thank you so much for clarifying that. That was pretty much what I was thinking, but your explanation was very reassuring.

If I were to go into the BIOS and just change the FSB (and probably the voltage) but leave the DDR rate the same for the time being, would that be ok? Also, what voltage should I be looking at for the processor? I know the lower the better, but should I just start at 1.5 and work down until things get unstable?


1.5 is way too much. First set it to your stock voltage, and then when it becomes unstable add little bits at a time until it is stable, oc some more, check stability and add volts if necessary...stop once your temps become unacceptable or your CPU reaches its limit.


----------



## Wheresatom

I am having an issue with my computer when I restart or even just shut it down. If I re-start everything will shut down like normal, except it seems like when it goes to restart it stops before it is done. The fans will sound like they are off for an instant, and then back on. I get no video though, my monitor detects no signal. If I hold the power button 4 seconds, the computer turns off, and I can turn it on again.

The same happens when I shut down. When I shut down from windows, the computer shuts down and everything is off. When I go to turn the computer on again, fans spin, drives turn, no video. Hard restart with the power button fixes it though. What could it be?

Someone suggested that I should reset the CMOS but I have very little knowledge what this does. From what I understand there is a ram like memory that keeps up with BIOS settings and system time. This will just set my BIOS back to factory defaults like I just reset to BIOS 0803 and restart clocks right. Might this solve my problem?


----------



## High Roller

Yeah that guide was awesome! had a few minor issues getting back to the 0608 bios release, ever since i gave my floppy drive to a museum last century. but i got there after i blew the dust off an IDE cdrom and installed said Bios n evrything went well. i put in the settings- and to my surprise (nothing ever works first time for me) it worked great. im running at 40c on one core and minimum of 30 on another core, suggesting an possible bad fitting? I've not yet put it on full load, but it looks more than capable of handling things. Thanks!


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wheresatom*


I am having an issue with my computer when I restart or even just shut it down. If I re-start everything will shut down like normal, except it seems like when it goes to restart it stops before it is done. The fans will sound like they are off for an instant, and then back on. I get no video though, my monitor detects no signal. If I hold the power button 4 seconds, the computer turns off, and I can turn it on again.

The same happens when I shut down. When I shut down from windows, the computer shuts down and everything is off. When I go to turn the computer on again, fans spin, drives turn, no video. Hard restart with the power button fixes it though. What could it be?

Someone suggested that I should reset the CMOS but I have very little knowledge what this does. From what I understand there is a ram like memory that keeps up with BIOS settings and system time. This will just set my BIOS back to factory defaults like I just reset to BIOS 0803 and restart clocks right. Might this solve my problem?


K, I had the same issue with this board. That someone was right, reseting the BIOS usually fixes any problems that occured. Remove the cmos battery AFTER you unplug the computer and the green light on the the motherboard turns off, Keep it out for ten seconds, put it back in, plug in your computer and start 'er up! See if this fixes your issue. Make sure you ground yourself before touching the board.


----------



## stunod1

Hi,everyone this site has been a tremendous help, thank you all!
Stunod's 1st build
Asus P5N E SLI 0901 C2D 6400 Case Apevia X Cruiser
PSU Apevia 650w OS Vista HP 32 Cooling Tuniq Tower
(2) WD 250 Raid 0 GPU (2) Gts 8800 MEM Corsair XMS2 6400 800 3Gig 555 18 2t


----------



## Wheresatom

CMOS did the trick. I reset that last night, and I set the FSB to 1333 and left the Vcore on Auto. CPU-Z shows this as 1.36 Volts. I imagine that is AFTER Vdroop. I have not done any mods (pencil etc.) to alter Vdroop on my board so I imagine that is even a little higher really. About where should I set this manually as a starting point if I want to try to come down with the Voltage/temperature? I am running the SMP folding client without errors so it is a stable overclock at this point. Stock cooling gets me 55Â°C.

Thanks for all the help so far!

Side note: The CMOS jumper should probably be made a little smaller, and put close to something else too. /sarcasm I had a hell of a time getting it back into the original position after I reset.


----------



## High Roller

Thanks Mr Q and the people here before me! My friend thought i was joking when i told him its at 3 ghz now lol, we had so much trouble with anything but stock. I havent reseated the heatsink but its maxed out at 40, not a whisper, i dont think ill have to mess around with it.
Im kinda guessing this is the only known working configuration for the Q6600 judging by the length of the thread lol


----------



## SketchyFish

need a little help when i reset my XPinstall i ra nthe 8.43 nforce650i winxp32 chipset drivers from nvidia..these were dated the 12/03/2008 so i thought theyed be good think some 1 in here might pointed me to em cant rremember but now ive just installed my printer and device mananger has found an uninstalled PCI Bus but i pointed it to the install folder of the nvidia drivers but it wasnt finding what ti wanted so what will this be what havent i given drivers for as thought was strange as when ra nthe install program only had 3 thing 1 of these was the media sheild and firewall nvivdia software but no that when ra nthem before there was at least 5 drivers in that list so did i run the wrong chipset drivers or is it just a cut down installer that i ran?? please cant get my head round it!!!


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SketchyFish* 
need a little help when i reset my XPinstall i ra nthe 8.43 nforce650i winxp32 chipset drivers from nvidia..these were dated the 12/03/2008 so i thought theyed be good think some 1 in here might pointed me to em cant rremember but now ive just installed my printer and device mananger has found an uninstalled PCI Bus but i pointed it to the install folder of the nvidia drivers but it wasnt finding what ti wanted so what will this be what havent i given drivers for as thought was strange as when ra nthe install program only had 3 thing 1 of these was the media sheild and firewall nvivdia software but no that when ra nthem before there was at least 5 drivers in that list so did i run the wrong chipset drivers or is it just a cut down installer that i ran?? please cant get my head round it!!!

An un-installed PCI bus? Umm thats weird. The chipset you ran was from 12/03/2007? Is this interfering with anything you are doing?

Ok, you ran the chipset drivers and it says it has an uninstalled PCI bus. I say switch back to the ones on the Driver disk that came with your mobo. Thats a safe bet.

Quote:

Thanks Mr Q and the people here before me! My friend thought i was joking when i told him its at 3 ghz now lol, we had so much trouble with anything but stock. I havent reseated the heatsink but its maxed out at 40, not a whisper, i dont think ill have to mess around with it.
Im kinda guessing this is the only known working configuration for the Q6600 judging by the length of the thread lol
Congrats!!

Diddler, the guy who posted the info, was trying to get more out of the oc, but his most stable was 3.04ghz. PM him to see if he has anything new. I'll be adding you to the list of people who have gotton 3.0ghz from a Q6600 on the P5N-E SLI.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrQ* 
An un-installed PCI bus? Umm thats weird. The chipset you ran was from 12/03/2007? Is this interfering with anything you are doing?

Ok, you ran the chipset drivers and it says it has an uninstalled PCI bus. I say switch back to the ones on the Driver disk that came with your mobo. Thats a safe bet.

Congrats!!

Diddler, the guy who posted the info, was trying to get more out of the oc, but his most stable was 3.04ghz. PM him to see if he has anything new. I'll be adding you to the list of people who have gotton 3.0ghz from a Q6600 on the P5N-E SLI.


ok il try that i guess it didnt install everything that the mobo dis kdoes!! why im not sure but no some of these file realises are for prople that are having trouble with it all maybe got 1 those...il try that then...


----------



## SketchyFish

itwas the jmicron controler that hadnt been installed so got it off old disk so kk now cheers...


----------



## Gauvenator

I just ordered a bunch of little microcool heatsinks for the voltage regulators. I should have plenty spare and a few different sizes, so is there anything else I should cool on the motherboard while I'm at it?

I noticed there are some vregs near the northbridge and I am putting more voltage through it now..but maybe they're not for the nb idk.

Do the +100mv offset mosfets heat up even tho I don't use that feature?


----------



## SSJVegeta

Does the Tuniq Tower 120 or Thermalright Ultra eXtreme fit this motherboard fine without the stock northbridge heatsink getting in the way?


----------



## Delete

Just wanted to jump in and say HI , I'm in the process of putting my first unit together and I have a final build sheet. This is going to be the mobo I go with so I'll be poking thru and learning from you guys. Of course there will be the random dumb question that I can throw out, I case you need a good laugh. A good friend of mine is real good IT guy so he can help with some things and let me screw up some to learn from. My last 4 computers were factory units until I tweaked'em too far, just couldn't get the frame rates I wanted LOL. It's going to take 3 weeks just to read this one thread !!


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Delete* 
Just wanted to jump in and say HI , I'm in the process of putting my first unit together and I have a final build sheet. This is going to be the mobo I go with so I'll be poking thru and learning from you guys. Of course there will be the random dumb question that I can throw out, I case you need a good laugh. A good friend of mine is real good IT guy so he can help with some things and let me screw up some to learn from. My last 4 computers were factory units until I tweaked'em too far, just couldn't get the frame rates I wanted LOL. It's going to take 3 weeks just to read this one thread !!


If you are going to pay for a e6550 why don't you spend a little more and get the e8400. It works with this board with the BIOS 0803 update, provided you have another sckt 775 cpu laying around that you can use to update the BIOS. Thats what I had to do.


----------



## SketchyFish

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Does the Tuniq Tower 120 or Thermalright Ultra eXtreme fit this motherboard fine without the stock northbridge heatsink getting in the way?

thaink a lot of people have had to chop off the asus logo thats on top of the NB heatsink my man but not sure if thats what ur jhave to do as they were useing the frezzer pro 7 but sure its gets in way no few peeps round here use ur style of HSF so maybe 1 of em will chime in an let uano mate kk hope that helps its a bigold sucker isnt it lol...


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Does the Tuniq Tower 120 or Thermalright Ultra eXtreme fit this motherboard fine without the stock northbridge heatsink getting in the way?

It does fit. You don't need to chop off the logo.









I've used the Tuniq myself.

@Gauvenator: What kind of mosfets did you get? Or more specifically, what kind of cooling do you have on your motherboard?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
It does fit. You don't need to chop off the logo.









I've used the Tuniq myself.

@Gauvenator: What kind of mosfets did you get? Or more specifically, what kind of cooling do you have on your motherboard?

Currently, there is no cooling on the mosfets. I'm going to add some microcool heatsinks for security over 1.4v.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mimi.html

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mimoch.html

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mipllch.html


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Currently, there is no cooling on the mosfets. I'm going to add some microcool heatsinks for security over 1.4v.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mimi.html

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mimoch.html

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mipllch.html


They look permanent.








Do show pictures when you get them on.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


They look permanent.








Do show pictures when you get them on.










Will do.

Should I use the included thermal tape or just use my Arctic Alumina Epoxy?


----------



## HAYWIREFIVE

thanks for the setting in this thread for clocking to 3.0 with a quad works a treat ty


----------



## High Roller

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


Does the Tuniq Tower 120 or Thermalright Ultra eXtreme fit this motherboard fine without the stock northbridge heatsink getting in the way?


I have the Thermalright Ultra 120 A Which i believe is the same size, it is very tight but it fits on without touching the NB HS


----------



## SketchyFish

It does fit. You don't need to chop off the logo.

I've used the Tuniq myself.

my bad thought some1 had said that for those coolers back in thread but must just be frezzere pro that they had to chop it off as it touched the HSF to top of NB-cooler-logo-bit-thingy-majigy...lol


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


It does fit. You don't need to chop off the logo.

I've used the Tuniq myself.

my bad thought some1 had said that for those coolers back in thread but must just be frezzere pro that they had to chop it off as it touched the HSF to top of NB-cooler-logo-bit-thingy-majigy...lol


Yah when I was using the Freezer Pro 7 I had to chop a little off the Freezer pro. U probably could have chopped some of the NB cooler alternatively.


----------



## Asce

Hey blizz is the p5n-e still holding good for you?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Hey blizz is the p5n-e still holding good for you?


It is but I'm not happy about having to drop down to 3.5 GHz instead of 3.6. When the Tracers were overclocked stress tests weren't stable (but memtest86 was fine) so I went back to stock and threw in 2 GB of Corsair.

Not satisfied but it'll do..

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=319221

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Will do.

Should I use the included thermal tape or just use my Arctic Alumina Epoxy?


Try the included one. Is that permenant too?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


It is but I'm not happy about having to drop down to 3.5 GHz instead of 3.6. When the Tracers were overclocked stress tests weren't stable (but memtest86 was fine) so I went back to stock and threw in 2 GB of Corsair.

Not satisfied but it'll do..


I got sick of the board but you will ike how ive currently got my rig setup.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I got sick of the board but you will ike how ive currently got my rig setup.


I always wanted that board..


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


I always wanted that board..










lol. I got the last one the company i work for had for sale. but the supremefx that comes with it is crap, i couldnt setup the audio on it and said everything i plugged in was wrong.


----------



## blackmaff

Hi guys, I've been trawling through tutorials, and was wondering if anyone had tips on how I can get this system OC'd to it's potential







As I'm so new, I've AI overclocked it to 20% and it's running fine, but last time I tried to OC it i managed to kill it and have to take it to a repair shop! So no callous fiddling from me anymore.


----------



## High Roller

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackmaff* 
Hi guys, I've been trawling through tutorials, and was wondering if anyone had tips on how I can get this system OC'd to it's potential







As I'm so new, I've AI overclocked it to 20% and it's running fine, but last time I tried to OC it i managed to kill it and have to take it to a repair shop! So no callous fiddling from me anymore.

Unfortunatley, you have a combination of CPU and MB made in hell, and there isnt a lot you can do with it. It can go to 3 ghz max, and you have to have the 0608 release of BIOS from Asus ONLY! Click MrQs sig for details on how to do it. MY advice, invest in a new MB. I will soon


----------



## blackmaff

Thanks for the advice, will look into that now.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
It is but I'm not happy about having to drop down to 3.5 GHz instead of 3.6. When the Tracers were overclocked stress tests weren't stable (but memtest86 was fine) so I went back to stock and threw in 2 GB of Corsair.

Not satisfied but it'll do..

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=319221

Try the included one. Is that permenant too?

You're talking about the permanance of the attachment?
The tape would probably come off. My epoxy on the other hand....I would probably end up ripping the mosfet off if I needed to remove the heatsink.







-> mobo


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
You're talking about the permanance of the attachment?
The tape would probably come off. My epoxy on the other hand....I would probably end up ripping the mosfet off if I needed to remove the heatsink.







-> mobo

Then stick with the tape that it comes with.
Your cooling probably costs more than the board now. =S


----------



## Blizzie

http://www.tankguys.com/index.php?cPath=191
Anyone know if it's compatible with this motherboard?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


http://www.tankguys.com/index.php?cPath=191
Anyone know if it's compatible with this motherboard?


Ah yes I was looking at those, but even the Type 3 (smallest one 46mm) is too big. Wow that's half the usual price tho.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Ah yes I was looking at those, but even the Type 3 (smallest one 46mm) is too big. Wow that's half the usual price tho.











That stinks.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


That stinks.










yah...thermalright makes nice stuff, too bad. I wanted one too.


----------



## jackpot316

I am looking for someone that has close to the same set up as me I just did a bios update from 0401 the new is 0703 and with the 0401 I was ocing to 2800mhz with no problems now I can not get it to work only stock or auto overclock Here is my set up my ram is now showing 5-5-5-31 but on the box it came in it shows 4-4-4-12 did this bios flash change the ram timing? if anymore info is needed to help let me know.

Intel Core Duo E6400
G-skill 2gigs DDR2 800 ram stock cl4-4-4-12 but showing 5-5-5-31
Nvidia EVGA 7600GT
Xclio 500w power supply
Coolmaster Centurion Case
Sound Blaster Audigy 7.1
2xWD-SE SATA 7200RPM 160GB HD Raid 0
LiteOn DVDRW 20x LH-20A1H
Windows XP PRO
Mobo Asus p5n-e sli


----------



## MrQ

Run Bios 0608. Its much better for OCing. I don't know where you got 703 from. The newest is 0901.

As for your timings, manually set them under "chipset" in the BIOS.


----------



## jackpot316

I was told that for my setup the 0703 was the best to go with I got it from here

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us

Version 0703 2007/08/16 update
Description P5N-E SLI BIOS 0703
1. Enhance compatibility of certain memroy module.
2. Support new CPUs, please refer to our website at:
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...?SLanguage=en-
us&model=P5N-E%20SLI
3. Add support for SLP 2.0.


----------



## MrQ

Just run 0608. It what I run and I overclocked my quad to 3ghz on it. If you need to know how to do it click the link here Way to get 3Ghz for Q6600 on Asus P5N-E SLI . It shows, in detailed instructions how to downgrade the P5N Bios.


----------



## jackpot316

i do not have quad core mine is a e6400 core duo will that update work ?


----------



## MrQ

Yes. Disregard the stuff for the Q6600 and focus on the instructions for downgrading the BIOS.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


It does fit. You don't need to chop off the logo.

I've used the Tuniq myself.

my bad thought some1 had said that for those coolers back in thread but must just be frezzere pro that they had to chop it off as it touched the HSF to top of NB-cooler-logo-bit-thingy-majigy...lol


Cool, thanks for the info!

What about the Thermalright 120 Ultra eXtreme? Does that also fit without the stock NB heatsink getting in the way?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jackpot316*


I am looking for someone that has close to the same set up as me I just did a bios update from 0401 the new is 0703 and with the 0401 I was ocing to 2800mhz with no problems now I can not get it to work only stock or auto overclock Here is my set up my ram is now showing 5-5-5-31 but on the box it came in it shows 4-4-4-12 did this bios flash change the ram timing? if anymore info is needed to help let me know.

Intel Core Duo E6400
G-skill 2gigs DDR2 800 ram stock cl4-4-4-12 but showing 5-5-5-31
Nvidia EVGA 7600GT
Xclio 500w power supply
Coolmaster Centurion Case
Sound Blaster Audigy 7.1
2xWD-SE SATA 7200RPM 160GB HD Raid 0
LiteOn DVDRW 20x LH-20A1H
Windows XP PRO
Mobo Asus p5n-e sli


With this motherboard you should set the timings manually, regardless of BIOS version. Otherwise it will often put incorrect ones that hurt performance.

After you are set manually, you should be able to OC again. 0608 is the best BIOS for OC'ing as someone has earlier suggested also.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Cool, thanks for the info!

What about the Thermalright 120 Ultra eXtreme? Does that also fit without the stock NB heatsink getting in the way?

According to Thermalright it fits this board nicely. I just got one to replace my Zalman 9700NT. My Zalman is vibrating itself loose, and since I was picking up a Thermalright HR03 GT for my 8800 anyway, it seemed to be the moment to try the 120 Extreme on my Q6600 setup. The 120 has excellent reviews.

Hopefully we'll know for sure in a few days if it fits as well as the Thermalright site says, and if the 120 Ultra Extreme is as efficient as the reviews state.

If anything, I'll post back as soon as I've tried the install.


----------



## Perry

Well goodbye trusty 805, hello E2180.

A few questions - anything above 2.4Ghz at 1.325 yields a failed POST. I don't -think- I'd need more voltage on this CPU since people are hitting 3Ghz with this. Would a bump in the northbridge voltage be needed?

Also I've noticed a fair bit of vdroop and I was thinking about one of the settings...vcore something. It basically let's you put +100mv. Is anybody using this to stablize things or is it best to up your vcore a bit higher so that it sits where you need it at full load?


----------



## marsey99

tr do some gerat coolers and im sure you will be happy with it. im sure mine would yeild better results if lapped but tbh im not that arsed atm soo....

@perry
try 1.35v for 3ghz


----------



## Perry

I still have that question about the vcore +100mv setting. Is anybody using it, am I correct in assuming that it is to account for vdroop and do you find it makes a difference?


----------



## High Roller

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Cool, thanks for the info!

What about the Thermalright 120 Ultra eXtreme? Does that also fit without the stock NB heatsink getting in the way?

Lol, i have the Thermalright Ultra120 A, I believe they are the same size
It is very tight but it fits without removing the NB heatsinkA Pic of Thermalright on the board


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
Well goodbye trusty 805, hello E2180.

A few questions - anything above 2.4Ghz at 1.325 yields a failed POST. I don't -think- I'd need more voltage on this CPU since people are hitting 3Ghz with this. Would a bump in the northbridge voltage be needed?

Also I've noticed a fair bit of vdroop and I was thinking about one of the settings...vcore something. It basically let's you put +100mv. Is anybody using this to stablize things or is it best to up your vcore a bit higher so that it sits where you need it at full load?

What fsb are you at? 1.56nb helps ALOT on this board with stability. At least in my experience.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


What fsb are you at? 1.56nb helps ALOT on this board with stability. At least in my experience.


I'm at 3.0ghz (300x4) stable with the default multiplier (x10), Vcore of 1.375 and a northbridge voltage of 1.393. Auto wasn't supplying enough juice to the northbridge and I doubt the lowest voltage would either (1.205 I believe is the value) since Everest is reading that the default northbridge voltage should be 1.25.

I have yet to really give it a run with an overnight session of Orthos but after 10 minutes my temperatures don't go above 53 degrees. They'd probably be 3-4 degrees less if I brought my case out from under my desk.

The northbridge is what worries me. I have a 92mm fan for the intake, another for the exhause and a small, most likely inefficient case fan on the window that is located on the window in between the northbridge and the memory slots. Even with this I remember the heatsink getting warm to the touch on default voltages and while it has been reseated with AS5 I'm wondering if 1.393 is too much. I know you said 1.5 has worked for you but that's a bit too much for me to try. If something goes POP I'm a dead man...wife aggro for breaking the PC.

Me







<--Her

I have a bit of work to do to get this dialed in with the lowest voltages all around but so far I'm happy with the processor. Plus at $59.99 after MIR (OEM) it's proving to be a power house.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I'm at 3.0ghz (300x4) stable with the default multiplier (x10), Vcore of 1.375 and a northbridge voltage of 1.393. Auto wasn't supplying enough juice to the northbridge and I doubt the lowest voltage would either (1.205 I believe is the value) since Everest is reading that the default northbridge voltage should be 1.25.

I have yet to really give it a run with an overnight session of Orthos but after 10 minutes my temperatures don't go above 53 degrees. They'd probably be 3-4 degrees less if I brought my case out from under my desk.

The northbridge is what worries me. I have a 92mm fan for the intake, another for the exhause and a small, most likely inefficient case fan on the window that is located on the window in between the northbridge and the memory slots. Even with this I remember the heatsink getting warm to the touch on default voltages and while it has been reseated with AS5 I'm wondering if 1.393 is too much. I know you said 1.5 has worked for you but that's a bit too much for me to try. If something goes POP I'm a dead man...wife aggro for breaking the PC.

Me







<--Her

I have a bit of work to do to get this dialed in with the lowest voltages all around but so far I'm happy with the processor. Plus at $59.99 after MIR (OEM) it's proving to be a power house.


You seem comfortable removing the mobo to reseat the nb cooler, so you might as well get a better one like the Thermalright HR-05, and strap a low speed 70mm fan on it. That's what I'm using right now for 1.56 and it seems to take it well. I would use a nonconductive TIM like AC MX-2, or Tuniq TX-2 on the open die northbridge for safety. Both of those are better at cooling than AS5 anyway. I use the Tuniq TX-2.

Edit: However, your FSB doesn't seem to warrant 1.56v. I only need it above 1333.


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Gents,

I have finally gotten a modest (12%) overclock on my C2D 6420. After playing with it for a while, I achieved it by adjusting the CoreV to 2.176 from stock of 1.344. And by changing the FSB to 1200 and the RAM to 800, making the ratio 1:1.I left the other voltages the _same_ (stock).

*IS this voltage TOO HIGH ?*

I ran Orthos for about an hour and I ran SuperPI without any issues.

MY temps all seem fine:
CPU:13c
MB: 16c
GPU: 45c

Watching the core voltage in CPU-Z, I see no fluctuations.

Am I safe with these settings ?


----------



## Pumpkinhead

The strange thing is that I set this Voltage in the BIOS to *1.244*,
however it appears on CPU-Z and Everest as 2.18 upon re-boot !

*What is going on here ?*
( or what have I done wrong ? )


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Gents,

I have finally gotten a modest (12%) overclock on my C2D 6420. After playing with it for a while, I achieved it by adjusting the CoreV to 1.244 from stock of 1.344. And by changing the FSB to 1200 and the RAM to 800, making the ratio 1:1.I left the other voltages the same (stock).

IS this voltage TOO HIGH ?

I ran Orthos for about an hour and I ran SuperPI without any issues.

MY temps all seem fine:
CPU:13c
MB: 16c
GPU: 45c

Watching the core voltage in CPU-Z, I see no fluctuations.

Am I safe with these settings ?

Strange thing is....
that in the BIOS, the VCore is set to *1.244*, however CPU-Z and Everest reads it as *2.18 *!

*What have I done wrong ?*


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
Gents,

I have finally gotten a modest (12%) overclock on my C2D 6420. After playing with it for a while, I achieved it by adjusting the CoreV to *2.176* from stock of 1.344. And by changing the FSB to 1200 and the RAM to 800, making the ratio 1:1.I left the other voltages the same (stock).

IS this voltage TOO HIGH ?

I ran Orthos for about an hour and I ran SuperPI without any issues.

MY temps all seem fine:
CPU:13c
MB: 16c
GPU: 45c

Watching the core voltage in CPU-Z, I see no fluctuations.

Am I safe with these settings ?

Strange thing is....
that in the BIOS, the VCore is set to *1.244*, however CPU-Z and Everest reads it as *2.18* !

*What have I done wrong ?*

whoa scared me with ur first voltage reading...little bit a typo lol
The correct voltage is fine tho at 1.244v. Your chip is safe









edit: just realized the first reading is what everest was reading


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Why do you think it is _reading_ my VCore wrong ?

I couldn't have even set it that high !
Should I set the VCore back to "*AUTO*" and see what it reads then ?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
Why do you think it is _reading_ my VCore wrong ?

I couldn't have even set it that high !
Should I set the VCore back to "*AUTO*" and see what it reads then ?

Everest could be giving you a false reading. Check it with a program like Speedfan too. If it's still extremely high...make sure nothing is shorting out your motherboard I guess....but I doubt it is that high, because you would be getting some majorly out of control temps.


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Everest could be giving you a false reading. Check it with a program like Speedfan too. If it's still extremely high...make sure nothing is shorting out your motherboard I guess....but I doubt it is that high, because you would be getting some majorly out of control temps.

When I launched CPU-Z and Everest, but said 1.344 initially.
"Whew", I said !
Now it looked like it has updated or refreshed itself and is reading *2.192* ! on Both !

Speed Fan is also reading 2.19 !


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
When I launched CPU-Z and Everest, bot said 1.344 initially.
"Whew", I said !
Now it looked like it has updated or refreshed itself and is reading *2.192* ! on Both !

Speed Fan is also reading 2.19 !

Your temperatures don't correspond to such a high voltage. What are you getting when you do Orthos and what voltage does it say while you are running Orthos (Small FFT)?


----------



## Pumpkinhead

When I run Orthos, I get " 0 errors, 0 warnings " in the 'SPLOG' file.

While this is running, the three utilities are all reading 2.192v.
I do not see any Voltage readings on the Orthos test log file.
Am I reading this utility correct ?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
When I run Orthos, I get " 0 errors, 0 warnings " in the 'SPLOG' file.

While this is running, the three utilities are all reading 2.192v.
I do not see any Voltage readings on the Orthos test log file.
Am I reading this utility correct ?

If it's not fluctuating at all it's probably a false reading. With this board especially, your voltage should drop while your CPU is under load (known as Vdroop).

Go into you BIOS and in the hardware monitor check the voltage. That should give you a good reading.


----------



## Pumpkinhead

I really appreciate you help !

In the BIOS Hardware Monitor it reads:

Vcore : 1.32V
3.3v : 3.32V
5v : 4.99V
12v : 12.16V

So all seems well there. Upon reboot, I quickly launched CPU-Z and noticed the Vcore was about 1.32 and fluctuating a bit ( 1.33,1.34, ect.. ) . I quickly got a screenshot seen here below. After about 30 secs, it went to 2.192 and never fluctuated.

So I also think I am getting false readings somehow.

Thanks for sticking with me!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead*


I really appreciate you help !

In the BIOS Hardware Monitor it reads:

Vcore : 1.32V
3.3v : 3.32V
5v : 4.99V
12v : 12.16V

So all seems well there. Upon reboot, I quickly launched CPU-Z and noticed the Vcore was about 1.32 and fluctuating a bit ( 1.33,1.34, ect.. ) . I quickly got a screenshot seen here below. After about 30 secs, it went to 2.192 and never fluctuated.

So I also think I am getting false readings somehow.

Thanks for sticking with me!


No problem, glad I could help


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
You seem comfortable removing the mobo to reseat the nb cooler, so you might as well get a better one like the Thermalright HR-05, and strap a low speed 70mm fan on it. That's what I'm using right now for 1.56 and it seems to take it well. I would use a nonconductive TIM like AC MX-2, or Tuniq TX-2 on the open die northbridge for safety. Both of those are better at cooling than AS5 anyway. I use the Tuniq TX-2.

Edit: However, your FSB doesn't seem to warrant 1.56v. I only need it above 1333.

Unfortunately a new heatsink isn't an option. If any money goes into this rig it'll be towards a new video card. I'd like to pick up an HR-05 but sadly it just isn't in the cards.

Does anybody know which value in Everest is being read from the northbridge assuming there is even diode located there? Also what is the maximum safe operating temperature for the chipset?


----------



## MrQ

Question everybody. I have recently encountered a rather annoying ethernet issue on my board. It seems after I restart my computer or do a cold start, my internet will not work. I mean its got connection, the IP is fine, the cord is fine, and everything points to the internet getting to my comp, but the internet does not work. I found that after a restart or cold start I have to reload my ethernet drivers to get internet. It works every time, but its getting incredibly annoying. Any ideas?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Unfortunately a new heatsink isn't an option. If any money goes into this rig it'll be towards a new video card. I'd like to pick up an HR-05 but sadly it just isn't in the cards.

Does anybody know which value in Everest is being read from the northbridge assuming there is even diode located there? Also what is the maximum safe operating temperature for the chipset?


No one really knows where the sensor is on this board...kindof frustrating really...

I'd say as long as it's below 55 or so under load it's OK. However, this doesn't give an accurate measure of the nb, so careful with the nb volts.


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

This is my first overclock, where do i start? i would like to O/C to around 3gh. Can someone help me?

Donk


----------



## MrQ

See the link in my sig "How to get 3ghz for Q6600 on P5N-E SLI". That will give you all the answers to get to 3ghz. If it works for you make sure you rep Diddler, the guy who made that post.


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

I can't change my bios back to the previous version, vista 64 has issues with it. What other steps could i take to get started using the current bios? I tried using the AI and overclock it 5% worked went to 15 and it blue screen.

I'm not sure where to start? What setting should I change first?


----------



## MrQ

Thats kinda the issue with this board donkey, the absolute best way to get 3ghz on the quad is on the 0608 bios. I was on 0803 and it wouldn't let me past 2.6ghz.

But I guess we need to try setting your memory timings to whats on your memory. change the AI oc to manual, set the FSB to 1333 and the memory to 667.

If you can't start on that, back down on the fsb till you can boot into windows.


----------



## Perry

Well I'm stuck.

3ghz is stable for gaming and normal use but not OCN stable by way of Orthos. I was greeted with a restart just short of 1 hour in and in under 5 minutes with OCCT.

Here's the details:

vcore: 1.4 (read as 1.404 in CPUZ and 1.344 under full load testing due to vdroop)
northbridge: 1.393
multiplier: 10
memory: 5-4-4-15
vdimm: 2.085

While I don't have the batch on this new chip yet I can't see myself needing more than 1.4 vcore to hit 3ghz. Also I'm not prepared to bump the northbridge up to the next step (1.5v+) without some sort of activing cooling and that just isn't in the budget for now if I want to get a house in July.

My next course of action, since my voltages seem to be enough is to test my memory again using MemTest while overclocked. I ran it before with my Pentium D 805 at 3.2ghz and stock voltages without picking up any errors. Perhaps there's something funky going on with my new CPU. At least I have a bit of room to play with before I reach OCZ's EVP value of 2.2v.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Hi guys,

I have been using the P5N-E SLI for about 2 weeks now, while I waited for my P5W DH Deluxe to be returned (had to RMA). I have a Xeon X3220, which is essentially the same thing as a Q6600. I was never able to get it stable at 3.0GHz, but I am on the newest BIOS (I think it's 901), and don't have the patience to try and figure out how to back-flash it to an older version. Now that my P5W has returned, I rebuilt my rig as it was before, and slapped together the one that is now in my sig, using the P5N-E SLI. I have read good things about the OC ability of this board w/ the E21xx series CPU's, but I am wondering how to push it to the max safely... My NB doesn't seem to get too hot, but again, I didn't OC the quad core. I don't really want to buy a new NB cooler. Would reseating it with AS5 (or similar) be enough? Also, there is nothing on the SB. I have a few RAM sinks around - do you think that it would be beneficial for me to adhere, say, 4 ram sinks to the SB? Or should I just order a copper passive cooler for it? Ideally, I want to get this chip to 3.4GHz, as I know it can be done on this board, however, I am unsure what hoops wI will need to jump through to get there. I am no stranger to OC'ing, but just wondering what board-specific measures I should take to reach my goal and keep it stable.

Any advice offered will be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Also - as an FYI - the P5W DH Deluxe is a GREAT board. It's a 975X Chipset, so a touch on the "old" side, but it smacks the tar out of this P5N-E SLI, and will OC a quad to 3.4GHz on air. I have seen them @ 3.6GHz, but few and far between are they.









Best part is - Newegg has them on sale right now - open box model is only a few bucks more than a P5N!! If you're looking to OC a quad, and don't want to shell out the big bux for an X38 board, this is the way to go. P35 is good, but P35 boards in this price range don't have nearly as many useful features. If you don't need the features, or dual video cards, go with a Gigabyte P35-DS3L for $80.00.

IMHO, from what i have read, the P5N is not worth it for quads. I mean, if I have to tweak, tweak, tweak, just to get 3.0GHz, then it's worthless for those chips. I would stick to dual cores on this board only.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie* 
Hi guys,

I have been using the P5N-E SLI for about 2 weeks now, while I waited for my P5W DH Deluxe to be returned (had to RMA). I have a Xeon X3220, which is essentially the same thing as a Q6600. I was never able to get it stable at 3.0GHz, but I am on the newest BIOS (I think it's 901), and don't have the patience to try and figure out how to back-flash it to an older version. Now that my P5W has returned, I rebuilt my rig as it was before, and slapped together the one that is now in my sig, using the P5N-E SLI. I have read good things about the OC ability of this board w/ the E21xx series CPU's, but I am wondering how to push it to the max safely... My NB doesn't seem to get too hot, but again, I didn't OC the quad core. I don't really want to buy a new NB cooler. Would reseating it with AS5 (or similar) be enough? Also, there is nothing on the SB. I have a few RAM sinks around - do you think that it would be beneficial for me to adhere, say, 4 ram sinks to the SB? Or should I just order a copper passive cooler for it? Ideally, I want to get this chip to 3.4GHz, as I know it can be done on this board, however, I am unsure what hoops wI will need to jump through to get there. I am no stranger to OC'ing, but just wondering what board-specific measures I should take to reach my goal and keep it stable.

Any advice offered will be greatly appreciated!

Additional cooling is never a bad idea, even if it something as simple as reseating your northbridge with some AS5.

I'm thinking of getting a small heatsink for my southbridge as well since I still think it was a poor design by Asus not to cover it in the first place.

Everything that you mentioned can only help improve stability so give 'er!


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Thanks for the input, Perry! Out of curiosity, what were you able to get to with your E2180? I know you've got the sweet 10x multi, but I should be able to pull similar speeds with the E2160.


----------



## Perry

Well, something is holding me back from a stable 1ghz overclock and I'm not sure what it is. By all accounts I should have enough vcore and northbridge voltage to handle it so either I picked up a bad chip, it's a poorly made batch or there's something else I'm missing.

Don't get me wrong, it's still a step up from my 805 so I'm happy either way but I'd like to be able to get a 1ghz overclock out of it. That's been my only goal on any chip since I got into overclocking.


----------



## MrQ

Hey, Xeon what IS the advantage of running a xeon? Whats the dif between it and the q6600?


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Thats kinda the issue with this board donkey, the absolute best way to get 3ghz on the quad is on the 0608 bios. I was on 0803 and it wouldn't let me past 2.6ghz.

But I guess we need to try setting your memory timings to whats on your memory. change the AI oc to manual, set the FSB to 1333 and the memory to 667.

If you can't start on that, back down on the fsb till you can boot into windows.



Did what u said got the FSB set to 1,150 and the ram to 667. What would be my next step?

btw: thanks in advance for your help


----------



## MrQ

Ok you have achieve about 2.6ghz. Thats pretty good. Your temps stayin all right? Don't use PC Probe use CoreTemp (google it). Ok time to crack into the voltages. If you have cpu-z bring it up and check the v-core voltage. Write it down. Boot into you bios and raise the voltage up ONE step from where it was on default v-core. (There is vdroop on this board so don't expect to have accurate readings from cpu-z just use it to gauge where the default is). Now slowly raise your FSB about by about 5. If you can still boot into windows, then go back to the FSB and raise it a bit more until you can't boot into windows. Once youve reached that point, hit me up back here with your results


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Hey, Xeon what IS the advantage of running a xeon? Whats the dif between it and the q6600?


Xeon is a server CPU. They're build to last longer and can run under more severe conditions; hence it's a server CPU. I can't remember if they're overclockable. If they can, it's not much.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Xeon is a server CPU. They're build to last longer and can run under more severe conditions; hence it's a server CPU. I can't remember if they're overclockable. If they can, it's not much.


Xeons overclock the same if not better.

a xeon and its equivalent core 2 duo/quad are the exact same chip, the xeon is just a "higher quality" meant for servers. They generally can withstand higher operating temperatures etc. Thus they are usually better for overclocking but they cost a bit more.


----------



## r0b126

LONG post inc... please read it, I'm desperately looking for an answer

I know this might be long, but its not overly complicated info. Please read this, I'm completely stumped here...

The Beginning-
Assembled a machine using an Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard and an E8400 processor.
The stock speed on the CPU is 3.0GHz / 1333MHz FSB
The aftermarket cooler is a Zalman's CNPS9700
I also have 2x 1GB PC6400 DDR-2 800MHz Corsair memory. Timings are 4-4-4-12, 2T and manually set to this in the bios.
I also manually set voltage for the memory to 2.085 per the spec.
North Bridge voltage is set to auto.

At stock speeds and a fairly low voltage (I want to say it was 1.225v) everything was fine. Low CPU temps, low mobo temps.

The Overclock-

I overclocked the CPU to 3.6GHz / 1600MHz FSB
This gives me a 1:1 with the 800MHz memory
The CPU temp after OC is only 32C idle and I think it got as high as 38C under orthos load. Maybe 39-40C on a hot day.

voltage might have been kicked up 1 or 2 notches above 1.225, but no higher. The system was completely stable and temps were perfect.

The problems-
After about 2 weeks, I noticed some issues with stability. No issues with the temps...
The machine had rebooted itself or blue screened a few times while I was playing games. At first I thought it was a memory issue. So I retested both dimms with memtest twice each and both times they passed 100% with 0 errors. So the dimms are fine. Then I started having some other stability issues. Orthos would give a stop error or a blue screen / reset. So I bumped up the voltage a few notches and kept my eye on the temps. The temps were still very low.

From this point on, everything seemed perfect.... for about 10 - 15 days. Then I noticed another couple of random resets and a blue screens. Orthos would kill the machine again as well. Again a jump in voltage fixed this and the CPU temps stayed low.

This pattern continued until I hit 1.31v. The max for this CPU is 1.35 and I refused to go any higher than I was at.

The stability issue came back and this time I noticed my CPU temp was up a little, nothing dangerous though.

The motherboard temp was up a lot. I don't recall what it was back when I first did the overclock, but it was up over 45C when I noticed it this time. The machine had reset a time or 2 as well. Rather than attempt to fix the stability issue with voltage, I lowered it back down to 1.22v and canned the overclock.

So the situation I am in is this:

3.00GHz / 1333MHz FSB (Stock speeds) cooled with a CNPS9700
1.22v on the CPU

the motherboard temp even here is still 45C, with just the WoW load screen and not actually running the game it was at 52C, but its usually between 44-49C. Which is ridiculously high.

My next guess was the north bridge was overheating. I removed the NB heatsink and the paste was crusty dry. I removed it and applied arctic silver. No luck w/ the temps.

So I replaced the motherboard. It was suggested here that the NB was either bad or had sustained some damage.

I ordered and just installed today a new Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard.
I put the CPU on it and left everything at stock speeds. No overclocks anywhere. Flashed the bios to 0803 and set all the bios settings. 1.22v on the CPU's vcore.

CPU temp while idle (and with the aftermarket cooler) is 34C and the mobo temp is 38C. I checked it earlier and mobo temp was 39C. This sounds way too high for an idle temp. Not sure what the norm is supposed to be. The CPU temp isn't bad, but it's at stock and not doing anything and has a CNPS9700 on it... so it should be a few degrees lower imo. I guess the question is... why is my motherboard heating up like this? Is this temp normal?

Under load with Orthos, I have the following temps:

CPU: 39C after 3 minutes of testing
MOBO: 39C after 3 minutes of testing

stock speeds.... CNPS9700 cooling it...

will post more temps as it gets further into the test

PROGRESS LOG
--------------------------
stop error after 8 minutes

temp was 39/39, CPU/mobo respectively

upping the voltage a tad. 1.22 might be low

set vcore to 1.250

idle temp... CPU = 35C, mobo = 39C
CPU-Z shows voltage to be at 1.28v instead of the 1.250 that I set it to. Its never read exactly the same before

11 minutes in @ stock w/ 1.250v vcore:

cpu 41c
mobo 39c

I guess the good news is the mobo temp isn't going up.

31 minutes in @ stock 1.250v vcore

CPU = 42C
MOBO = 39C

mobo still hasn't gone over 39... which is a good thing, again hopefully the gaming doesn't change that. Might pull up the WoW load screen (best I can do at work) and see if that has any impact at all on it.

48 minutes @ stock w/ 1.250v vcore

CPU = 41C
MOBO = 39C

Temps aren't exactly impressive for being under load w/ this cooler and stock speeds, but it *looks* stable. And the motherboard isn't overheating (yet).

Any suggestions, cautions, advice??

15 mins of playing crysis

motherboard temp went up to 47C

....I can NOT figure this out....

please help


----------



## Perry

Ok, for some reason my new E2180 does not want to stay stable at 3Ghz and one suggestion is to punch the northbridge voltage up another knotch to 1.562. Does anybody have any experience with the stock heatsink being able to take this voltage?

I have reseated it with some AS5 as well as a fan for intake and one for exhause however the intake fan is obscured by two hard drives. I also have a fan on the side window but it's a bit off center and below from the northbridge so I'm hoping that these will make some sort of difference but I'm not willing to increase this value it unless I can be sure it'll be ok.

Yes, I know...get active cooling. That's not an option right now unless I can find some freebies or root through some computer geek's junk drawer.


----------



## gelat

I am looking to swicth from 4x1 Corsair XMS2 6400C4's (@667) to 2x2 so I can go back to 800mhz on my RAM. I am looking for suggestions on memory that you guys KNOW works at 2x2. Here are my choices:

Patriot Extreme PDC24G6400LLK 2x2GB
G.Skill F2-6400CL4D-4GBPK 2x2GB
Geil Esoteria GX24GB6400ERBPDC 2x2GB
Crucial Ballistix BL2KIT25664AA804 2x2GB
OCZ Titanium OCZ2T800C44GK 2x2GB
OCZ Reaper OCZ2RPR800C44GK 2x2GB
Patriot Viper PVS24G6400LLK 2x2GB

They are all rated at 4-4-4-12/15 (2T) - I did not look for any CAS 5 memory at newegg.

I am looking for the thumbs-up on compatability on these at 800 (not 667)


----------



## Perry

You can check the P5N-E SLI's qualified vendor list (QVL) for info but I find it pretty hard to decipher since they sometimes use IC manufacturers instead of the actual company that puts out the memory such as OCZ.

The Ballistix seem to be dead stable in this board so I'd probably go with those.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

>Hey, Xeon what IS the advantage of running a xeon? Whats the dif >between it and the q6600?

The other members are correct, the Xeon is primarily a server CPU. Intel recently started making socket 775 Xeons that are counterparts to the Core 2 Duo series, for instance, mine is an X3220 = Q6600, E3110 = E8400, etc.

The Reason I chose to go Xeon is that I have been using Xeon based worstaions for some time (Since the old Foster Core PIV Xeons), and have always found them to be extraordinarily reliable for 24/7 machines, and in environments where cooling is less than optimal.

There is a debatable rumor that Xeons are manufactured from higher binned silicon.

What is not debatable, is that the X3220 can take close to 10c more heat than a Q6600 and remain rock stable. Mine is stock @ 2.4GHz, but I have it OC'd to 3.4GHz on air 24/7, and my warmest core barely breaks 42c at idle/ 58c Load. I can crank it to 3.6GHz, but rarely do I need such a small speed boost, so I tend to err on the side of caution. Also, I use air cooling only to acheive these clocks. My case is a custom Lian Li PC V2100, outfitted with 6 120mm Scythe S-Flex fans, and a pair of 80mm Panaflo's to keep my PSU chilly, so that helps to keep the temps down as well.

As far as cost, at the time I purchased the Xeon, (Oct. 2007), it was only $10.00 more than the Q6600, so price/ performance wise it was the better choice (due to the higher thermal spec).

I have benched it against Q6600's and performance is the same, however my temps and max OC are better than anything I was able to pull off with a Q6600 on the same board (P5W DH Deluxe, stock cooling reseated with AS5, and I did the vdroop mod).

IMHO, best chip for the buck right now is the E3110, it is the Xeon version of the E8400. If you want high (4.5GHz or more) OC's, spend the extra few bucks.

Also, IMO, Xeon's are just really darn classy bits of silicon.

- I hope this better explains why I went with it. if you have any other questions, let me know. I have been checking in on this thread regularly, so I'll try to answer as best I can.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

@ ROB126:

Hi Rob, a couple of things that you mentioned, such as no issue with temps, but instability nonetheless, and a suspect NB, bnoth stuck out to me, as I had similar issues with my P5W DH Deluxe at one point...

You may want to look into a Vdroop mod for this board. Asus Mobos are plagued by Vdroop issues that can cause similar instability to what you described here.

I modded the P5w, and now my voltage is rock stable, and no more issues. In fact I was able to take my quad core all the way up to 3.6GHz (orthos stable) on air alone. (I keep it at 3.4GHz as this box runs 24/7, and it just seems safer to me, lol)

As for heat issue upon reinstallation: If you seated your chip with AS5, or most any other heat grease, you will not see optimal temps for roughly 200 hours (of use), as the TIM needs time to settle in. Your mobo temps may be improved by either reseating your NB cooler with AS5, or replacing it alltogether with an active cooling solution. You should also toss a small copper passive heatsink onto the SB.

Other than that, try to make sure you have good airflow throughout your case.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie* 
>Hey, Xeon what IS the advantage of running a xeon? Whats the dif >between it and the q6600?

The other members are correct, the Xeon is primarily a server CPU. Intel recently started making socket 775 Xeons that are counterparts to the Core 2 Duo series, for instance, mine is an X3220 = Q6600, E3110 = E8400, etc.

The Reason I chose to go Xeon is that I have been using Xeon based worstaions for some time (Since the old Foster Core PIV Xeons), and have always found them to be extraordinarily reliable for 24/7 machines, and in environments where cooling is less than optimal.

There is a debatable rumor that Xeons are manufactured from higher binned silicon.

What is not debatable, is that the X3220 can take close to 10c more heat than a Q6600 and remain rock stable. Mine is stock @ 2.4GHz, but I have it OC'd to 3.4GHz on air 24/7, and my warmest core barely breaks 42c at idle/ 58c Load. I can crank it to 3.6GHz, but rarely do I need such a small speed boost, so I tend to err on the side of caution. Also, I use air cooling only to acheive these clocks. My case is a custom Lian Li PC V2100, outfitted with 6 120mm Scythe S-Flex fans, and a pair of 80mm Panaflo's to keep my PSU chilly, so that helps to keep the temps down as well.

As far as cost, at the time I purchased the Xeon, (Oct. 2007), it was only $10.00 more than the Q6600, so price/ performance wise it was the better choice (due to the higher thermal spec).

I have benched it against Q6600's and performance is the same, however my temps and max OC are better than anything I was able to pull off with a Q6600 on the same board (P5W DH Deluxe, stock cooling reseated with AS5, and I did the vdroop mod).

IMHO, best chip for the buck right now is the E3110, it is the Xeon version of the E8400. If you want high (4.5GHz or more) OC's, spend the extra few bucks.

Also, IMO, Xeon's are just really darn classy bits of silicon.

- I hope this better explains why I went with it. if you have any other questions, let me know. I have been checking in on this thread regularly, so I'll try to answer as best I can.

Thanks. Thats what I wanted to know. I appreciate you taking time to explain this.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Not a problem at all. Sorry if I got a bit long winded, lol.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


LONG post inc... please read it, I'm desperately looking for an answer

I know this might be long, but its not overly complicated info. Please read this, I'm completely stumped here...

The Beginning-
Assembled a machine using an Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard and an E8400 processor.
The stock speed on the CPU is 3.0GHz / 1333MHz FSB
The aftermarket cooler is a Zalman's CNPS9700
I also have 2x 1GB PC6400 DDR-2 800MHz Corsair memory. Timings are 4-4-4-12, 2T and manually set to this in the bios.
I also manually set voltage for the memory to 2.085 per the spec.
North Bridge voltage is set to auto.

At stock speeds and a fairly low voltage (I want to say it was 1.225v) everything was fine. Low CPU temps, low mobo temps.

The Overclock-

I overclocked the CPU to 3.6GHz / 1600MHz FSB
This gives me a 1:1 with the 800MHz memory
The CPU temp after OC is only 32C idle and I think it got as high as 38C under orthos load. Maybe 39-40C on a hot day.

voltage might have been kicked up 1 or 2 notches above 1.225, but no higher. The system was completely stable and temps were perfect.

The problems-
After about 2 weeks, I noticed some issues with stability. No issues with the temps...
The machine had rebooted itself or blue screened a few times while I was playing games. At first I thought it was a memory issue. So I retested both dimms with memtest twice each and both times they passed 100% with 0 errors. So the dimms are fine. Then I started having some other stability issues. Orthos would give a stop error or a blue screen / reset. So I bumped up the voltage a few notches and kept my eye on the temps. The temps were still very low.

From this point on, everything seemed perfect.... for about 10 - 15 days. Then I noticed another couple of random resets and a blue screens. Orthos would kill the machine again as well. Again a jump in voltage fixed this and the CPU temps stayed low.

This pattern continued until I hit 1.31v. The max for this CPU is 1.35 and I refused to go any higher than I was at.

The stability issue came back and this time I noticed my CPU temp was up a little, nothing dangerous though.

The motherboard temp was up a lot. I don't recall what it was back when I first did the overclock, but it was up over 45C when I noticed it this time. The machine had reset a time or 2 as well. Rather than attempt to fix the stability issue with voltage, I lowered it back down to 1.22v and canned the overclock.

So the situation I am in is this:

3.00GHz / 1333MHz FSB (Stock speeds) cooled with a CNPS9700
1.22v on the CPU

the motherboard temp even here is still 45C, with just the WoW load screen and not actually running the game it was at 52C, but its usually between 44-49C. Which is ridiculously high.

My next guess was the north bridge was overheating. I removed the NB heatsink and the paste was crusty dry. I removed it and applied arctic silver. No luck w/ the temps.

So I replaced the motherboard. It was suggested here that the NB was either bad or had sustained some damage.

I ordered and just installed today a new Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard.
I put the CPU on it and left everything at stock speeds. No overclocks anywhere. Flashed the bios to 0803 and set all the bios settings. 1.22v on the CPU's vcore.

CPU temp while idle (and with the aftermarket cooler) is 34C and the mobo temp is 38C. I checked it earlier and mobo temp was 39C. This sounds way too high for an idle temp. Not sure what the norm is supposed to be. The CPU temp isn't bad, but it's at stock and not doing anything and has a CNPS9700 on it... so it should be a few degrees lower imo. I guess the question is... why is my motherboard heating up like this? Is this temp normal?

Under load with Orthos, I have the following temps:

CPU: 39C after 3 minutes of testing
MOBO: 39C after 3 minutes of testing

stock speeds.... CNPS9700 cooling it...

will post more temps as it gets further into the test

PROGRESS LOG
--------------------------
stop error after 8 minutes

temp was 39/39, CPU/mobo respectively

upping the voltage a tad. 1.22 might be low

set vcore to 1.250

idle temp... CPU = 35C, mobo = 39C
CPU-Z shows voltage to be at 1.28v instead of the 1.250 that I set it to. Its never read exactly the same before

11 minutes in @ stock w/ 1.250v vcore:

cpu 41c
mobo 39c

I guess the good news is the mobo temp isn't going up.

31 minutes in @ stock 1.250v vcore

CPU = 42C
MOBO = 39C

mobo still hasn't gone over 39... which is a good thing, again hopefully the gaming doesn't change that. Might pull up the WoW load screen (best I can do at work) and see if that has any impact at all on it.

48 minutes @ stock w/ 1.250v vcore

CPU = 41C
MOBO = 39C

Temps aren't exactly impressive for being under load w/ this cooler and stock speeds, but it *looks* stable. And the motherboard isn't overheating (yet).

Any suggestions, cautions, advice??

15 mins of playing crysis

motherboard temp went up to 47C

....I can NOT figure this out....

please help


Your graphics card is probably heating up this motherboards temp sensor. Same thing happened to me with the nb temps and Crysis iirc.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Gauvinator could be right... I didn't notice you had an SLI setup. I have a Crossfire rig myself, and I used to get a nasty heat pocket between the cards. I replaced the coolers on both cards with Thermaltake DuOrb's, and replaced all my stock Lian Li case fans with high quality aftermarket parts. Problem solved.

For me though, the heat didn't so much cause instability, but I run my box 24/7, so I like to make sure it's a chilly as it can be.

Good thinkin' Gauvinator!!


----------



## Gauvenator

I added some vreg cooling to the Vcore and memory mosfets. See pics








They do heat up a good bit more at 1.43125v than 1.375v vcore.

Vcore mosfets:








With heatsinks:








Memory mosfets:








With heatsinks:









I didn't put bigger one's on the memory because of interference with that circle thing with the copper coils. But I don't plan to be using lots of memory voltage anyway.

I used Arctic Alumina Epoxy to attach them. Thermal Tape worries me..afraid it will fall off and short something out.


----------



## SketchyFish

my rig is dead it was fine a few days ago but my PSU was gettign real hot as i got my router and harddrive on top of my case so guess got to hot maybe as its not a good PSU and had to swaop it out the first time as the 5+v rail was under powered at only 4.55v and was ok for ages but ivejust put 2 new sticks of crucial ram in and these are ok so dont think its them but i started getting hardware crashes few weeks ago and my NB is so hot after 5 mins of bein on post scree nthat it burns to touch it no it gets hot but ****!!!

that the other thing it frezzes in the middle of post but still get a good 1 beep to say all is ok buit it ramdomly frezzes in middle of post and wont even get to the XP install disk menu so cant even install a fresh xp to see if its that as it said i had a bad install amnd needed to fix XP which i did but didnt do any good but as it wont let me boot from XPisk cant do anything bout that now or even install on another harddrive.

the main1 is making some strange like guring noises but its a newish sata drive so shouldnt be dead yet!! and if it was that then why cant i post or get to the install stage then??

do ua think my motherboard is dead or dieing im still under my warnty i think so i emailed em but its easter init so ave to wait i got an old ****ty amd 3200+ rig that im useing so at least im online...

so what does this sound liek to any1???

my motherboard was gettign to 48c or over on the asus temp thingy and was red so is that to hot!!! no gets hot tho...CPU is rounf 40ish at load harddrives at bout 30ishc so not to hot but im thinkin itsmaybe my psu and mobo it the way out.as got soem weird like glue **** on back on my mobo which i noticed other day looks like running over the dif lines on back of it and 
DEF shouldtn be there but not from me!! and the fact that soem of my screen is only a small amount but its shakeing or really fast moveing from side to side but only in post screen or set up menu??

how i can find out what bit isnt right or is messing up rest of it!!!no lot of stuff but need help im stuck dont no what to do...my babie is hurt lol...


----------



## MrQ

Dang man that sounds like an BIG heat issue. After you finish toasting your bread (or crumpets as the term may be







over the NB, get your whole mobo out of the case. If you have any good thermal grease use it on the NB after you have cleaned off the crap ASUS puts on there. Isospryl alcohol is a good solvent. I recommend Arctic Silver 5 for the thermal paste. Clean off the goop off the back of the board and try starting it up again. Maybe try a different PSU?

IMHO, by the sound of it, I think its toasted, (I HATE saying that) but its worth a shot.


----------



## r0b126

anyone have a good how-to guide for doing a vdroop mod?

I'd kinda like to give this a try to see if it solves any problems. I also plan to upgrade my case to an Antec 900, but I might wait to see if the mod alone does me any wonders


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
anyone have a good how-to guide for doing a vdroop mod?

I'd kinda like to give this a try to see if it solves any problems. I also plan to upgrade my case to an Antec 900, but I might wait to see if the mod alone does me any wonders

http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=4450&s=12

This has just about every mod for this board. Some hard, some not so hard.

I'm looking at the pencil mod myself since my vdroop is between .060 and .064.


----------



## Gauvenator

I'm def considering it too. .08 really sucks.


----------



## Perry

So in addition to my question of whether or not the stock heatsink reseated with some AS5 is able to handle the heat from the northbridge at 1.5v+ with an 80mm fan slightly offside (I'll take a picture to further elaborate if I can remember tomorrow) I'm also wondering about the LDT frequency option. Has anybody had any experience with this?


----------



## Gauvenator

For the pencil mod, do you just shade in the top of the resistor? I'm thinking of starting out light with a 6B pencil, and shading darker until there is little to no vdroop. That would work? And as long as I don't shade to darkly, I shouldn't hurt anything?

If anyone has tips, please let me know


----------



## r0b126

ok... what does Penciling mean?


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


For the pencil mod, do you just shade in the top of the resistor? I'm thinking of starting out light with a 6B pencil, and shading darker until there is little to no vdroop. That would work? And as long as I don't shade to darkly, I shouldn't hurt anything?

If anyone has tips, please let me know










That's a good question. I've heard the pencil type 2B used for pencil mods before. The best way to test is to do it lightly and then use a multi-meter to measure at the points outlined in the mod instructions I had posted. Since I don't have one it's pretty risky because too much and it's game over. This can't be reversed I don't think and I'm not sure where to shade exactly.

I'd like some clarification on this as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok... what does Penciling mean?


Penciling is when you use a pencil to "shade" a resistor decreasing the resistance it has to either create more stable voltage or to allow a larger increase of voltage.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


That's a good question. I've heard the pencil type 2B used for pencil mods before. The best way to test is to do it lightly and then use a multi-meter to measure at the points outlined in the mod instructions I had posted. Since I don't have one it's pretty risky because too much and it's game over. This can't be reversed I don't think and I'm not sure where to shade exactly.

I'd like some clarification on this as well.

Penciling is when you use a pencil to "shade" a resistor increasing the resistance it has to either create more stable voltage or to allow a larger increase of voltage.


You meant decreasing the resistance, right?

I have plenty of pencils so I'll try a lighter one like 2B first I guess. I guess just be really conservative and it should be fine. Some people have done this mod before. I'll have to dig around this thread and see who it was and ask them about it..

Edit: found these images earlier in the thread:


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


You meant decreasing the resistance, right?












Yikes!

*edits his post*

Thanks for the catch!


----------



## r0b126

what is a VR?


----------



## Perry

Variable resistor? I'm not sure. I would never solder anything onto a board. Hell, I'm barely brave enough to try the BSEL mod.


----------



## r0b126

ok, do I need to use a vdroop mod if my vcore voltage is only set to 1.250? The chip's max voltage is 1.35v

From what I am reading on that vdroop page someone posted above, it sounds like you only need the vdroop mod if you want to go beyond the max voltage because you have super great cooling.


----------



## r0b126

also..

looking to get an aftermarket north bridge cooler

anyone have any experience with these HR-05's?

http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...ler_hr05-1.htm

I am using an Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard. The NB is idling at 43C and hitting 50C while gaming, once got to 52C

Do you think I'll see a big difference with this heatsink? If not, what else might I try?


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I added some vreg cooling to the Vcore and memory mosfets. See pics








They do heat up a good bit more at 1.43125v than 1.375v vcore.

Vcore mosfets:








With heatsinks:








Memory mosfets:

In the second pic you are missing ones for the middle mosfets.


----------



## SketchyFish

so mr.Q do ua think its just had its day or have i doen this as ive not had any extremely hot NB temps nothing over 50c anyway!! so it is my mobo then yer thing is i dont wanna go taking the NB off if i can RMA it and think my PSU has gone bit sketchy to as my 5+v went from 5.20-5.40v down to a slightly under 4.70v a few days ago when all this started going wrong and getitng hardware blue screens sayin its shutting down so dont hurt my hardware but guess that didnt work lol...

so think its not booting and this is bit i dont get iots frezzeing in the BIOS when im in the blue settings screen!!! never had this before wioth any my pcs or ever heard of this at all!!!

what would make it do that ive cleared my CMOS bat a couple times but still nto doign anything,and other thing is my USB kewyboard keeps going missing in the BIOS and on boot up its thinks it not there or il get in to BIOS (if it gets that far that is) and i cant move around in there its juts frozzen me out!!!

think is i got dino pcs to build this for me so i gotta prove to them that i no what broken so dont ave to go thro all there **** tests and on phone saying do this then do this and see if that helps,but they did change my PSU out when i first got my rig off em but get this they didnt even plug my GPU poweer lead in to the graphics card so i opened my case and there was no power lead to my GPU card lol...and the first PSU i had didnt have a good 5+ line either as it was well under at 4.5v so i swaped itout they were good enough to send me 1 out ive still got old 1 but thats just as messed up so cant be worth tryimng that can it.andhavent got any more PSU beefy enough to run my rig!!!

got babie on way in next few weeks so could REALLY REALLY do with out this cost and stress wise!!!!

HELP ME PEOPLE have ua ever heard of BIOS crashing or frezzeing on ua?!?!?!? any info ua need just PM me or ask il rep ua for ever if ua can help please please please please need some help peeps.......





















:confuse d:


----------



## jackpot316

I made the changes to the timing set to unlink and set timing to 4-4-4-12-2 set the fsb to 1400 and disabled visualization tech and so far everything is good. I never touched the cpu multiplier that is set @ 8 and I did not touch the memory volts they are all left on auto.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


also..

looking to get an aftermarket north bridge cooler

anyone have any experience with these HR-05's?

http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...ler_hr05-1.htm

I am using an Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard. The NB is idling at 43C and hitting 50C while gaming, once got to 52C

Do you think I'll see a big difference with this heatsink? If not, what else might I try?


I'm using the HR-05 right now, and it did make a difference while gaming. When I was playing crysis without it, I would hit 50Â°C, lately I've been Playing COD4 and it's only hit 42Â°. Idle is not much different. But I also strapped a 70mm fan on it. Also, make sure you have good airflow to other parts of the motherboard, as that will help with your temps also, because the sensor is not on the nb.

I got it from Jab-Tech cuz they have the best price (except for Newegg, but they never have it in stock)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


In the second pic you are missing ones for the middle mosfets.


Those mosfets are for the +100mv option, which I don't use. If I ever start to use it I'll be sure to put some on. My primary concern was the Vcore mosfets


----------



## Blizzie

I still don't think the "MB" sensor is the NB or SB. Or both together divided by 2.









Nice on the mosfets.









I ordered a Corsair VX 550w for $55 after rebate and 2x1 Ballistix for $24 after rebate.

I got my Tracers stable at 1066 MHz. Now I'm going to throw in 2 more GB. Too bad I'll only get around 3.5 GB due to 32 bit.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SketchyFish*


so mr.Q do ua think its just had its day or have i doen this as ive not had any extremely hot NB temps nothing over 50c anyway!! so it is my mobo then yer thing is i dont wanna go taking the NB off if i can RMA it and think my PSU has gone bit sketchy to as my 5+v went from 5.20-5.40v down to a slightly under 4.70v a few days ago when all this started going wrong and getitng hardware blue screens sayin its shutting down so dont hurt my hardware but guess that didnt work lol...

so think its not booting and this is bit i dont get iots frezzeing in the BIOS when im in the blue settings screen!!! never had this before wioth any my pcs or ever heard of this at all!!!

what would make it do that ive cleared my CMOS bat a couple times but still nto doign anything,and other thing is my USB kewyboard keeps going missing in the BIOS and on boot up its thinks it not there or il get in to BIOS (if it gets that far that is) and i cant move around in there its juts frozzen me out!!!

think is i got dino pcs to build this for me so i gotta prove to them that i no what broken so dont ave to go thro all there **** tests and on phone saying do this then do this and see if that helps,but they did change my PSU out when i first got my rig off em but get this they didnt even plug my GPU poweer lead in to the graphics card so i opened my case and there was no power lead to my GPU card lol...and the first PSU i had didnt have a good 5+ line either as it was well under at 4.5v so i swaped itout they were good enough to send me 1 out ive still got old 1 but thats just as messed up so cant be worth tryimng that can it.andhavent got any more PSU beefy enough to run my rig!!!

got babie on way in next few weeks so could REALLY REALLY do with out this cost and stress wise!!!!

HELP ME PEOPLE have ua ever heard of BIOS crashing or frezzeing on ua?!?!?!? any info ua need just PM me or ask il rep ua for ever if ua can help please please please please need some help peeps.......





















:confuse d:

















It honestly sounds like a heat issue, fish. Something got screwed up and created a problem. I suggest you RMA it.

OR you could try that other PSU. IF all your testing is the Mobo then the 5 volt rail won't be an issue. Just hook up your hard drive and your Mobo and go. If you still have the heat issue you gotta kick the board back to the company who made your rig







. Also a 8600 gpu DOESN'T require its own seperate power.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Those mosfets are for the +100mv option, which I don't use. If I ever start to use it I'll be sure to put some on. My primary concern was the Vcore mosfets

Fair enough. I put a small heatsink on all the mosfets as i was using them all.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Fair enough. I put a small heatsink on all the mosfets as i was using them all.

Who needs mosfet heatsinks...









Kidding.







I'm just too cheap to get some.


----------



## Gauvenator

I got kindof worried after seeing one guy's mobo catch on fire lol. I think it was lottsol's D3SL, which didn't have mosfet cooling.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I got kindof worried after seeing one guy's mobo catch on fire lol. I think it was lottsol's D3SL, which didn't have mosfet cooling.

I'd get some if they weren't permanent or $1 each.







I've got no money. I need $25k for university in the fall.


----------



## Gauvenator

I've done the vdroop pencil mod. And it overvolts a little, but in the BIOS I can undervolt to counteract that. My vdroop is .032 now instead of .08. I'm going to try doing it again.

Edit: Tried again, ended up not overvolting, but still .032 vdroop. Well, this is good enough for me, it doens't seem to want to go any lower, and it is less than half of what it used to be.

Now to start undervolting









Edit2: I measured with a multimeter the resistance before and after, and it was ~128kiloOhm before, and ~72kiloOhms afterwards. In the high 70's it wasn't as effective, and below 70 it overvolted.


----------



## r0b126

ok, do I need to use a vdroop mod if my vcore voltage is only set to 1.250? The chip's max voltage is 1.35v

From what I am reading on that vdroop page someone posted above, it sounds like you only need the vdroop mod if you want to go beyond the max voltage because you have super great cooling.

anyone?


----------



## Perry

You can try it r0b126. I can't see it doing anything other than helping with your stability under load but perhaps someone who has done the mod can tell you for sure.

The easiest way to see if it needs to be done is to open CPUZ or another application that gives you a real time display of your vcore and then run Orthos. Once Orthos kicks in you should see a drop in your vcore.

If it's signifigant then this mod may be an option.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


ok, do I need to use a vdroop mod if my vcore voltage is only set to 1.250? The chip's max voltage is 1.35v

From what I am reading on that vdroop page someone posted above, it sounds like you only need the vdroop mod if you want to go beyond the max voltage because you have super great cooling.

anyone?


You don't absolutely have to do it, it's just nice because you don't have to put as high a voltage through the chip to get a stable oc. 
For example, if you are at 1.5, and your vdroop drops it to 1.45 and is stable (vdroop of .05); then you did the mod, and your vdroop was .01 instead of .05, you could set your voltage to 1.46 instead, because after vdroop it would still be 1.45, which is stable.
I hope that makes sense. And I think on this board it's really only necessary at higher voltages because at lower ones there isn't as much vdroop.


----------



## r0b126

in all honesty, I nixed the OC until I get the mobo heating issue solved. I hate not having it overclocked, but I don't want to take any chances at the moment


----------



## lost

Whats up fellas!! got this board on the way!!! I will definetly be asking some questions!


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


You don't absolutely have to do it, it's just nice because you don't have to put as high a voltage through the chip to get a stable oc. 
For example, if you are at 1.5, and your vdroop drops it to 1.45 and is stable (vdroop of .05); then you did the mod, and your vdroop was .01 instead of .05, you could set your voltage to 1.46 instead, because after vdroop it would still be 1.45, which is stable.
I hope that makes sense. And I think on this board it's really only necessary at higher voltages because at lower ones there isn't as much vdroop.



I have the pencil mod but I read that it's bad for the motherboard. The vdroop is there to prevent some voltage thingy.. Haha. Sorry I can't remember.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


in all honesty, I nixed the OC until I get the mobo heating issue solved. I hate not having it overclocked, but I don't want to take any chances at the moment


What mobo heating issue?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lost*


Whats up fellas!! got this board on the way!!! I will definetly be asking some questions!


We got answers.


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


What mobo heating issue?



The heating issue being that just running World of Warcraft for an hour can get the motherboard temp as high as 52C and the CPU temp as high as 39C

This is with the CPU back at stock speeds with a Zalman's CNPS9700 cooling it

the CPU used to run 32C and have a max of 38-39C under orthos load (with 3.6GHz OC)

btw, orthos doesn't get the mobo temp up past 39C no matter how long it runs, but 15 minutes of Crysis gets it to 49C and 30-60 mins of WoW to 52C


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

I have a question about pc probe II vs Core Temp. PC Probe always shows about 40c idle and core Temp shows on average about 8c to 10c higher at the same time. Which one is correct? Which one is closer to the real temp?

Thanks,

Donk


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


The heating issue being that just running World of Warcraft for an hour can get the motherboard temp as high as 52C and the CPU temp as high as 39C

This is with the CPU back at stock speeds with a Zalman's CNPS9700 cooling it

the CPU used to run 32C and have a max of 38-39C under orthos load (with 3.6GHz OC)

btw, orthos doesn't get the mobo temp up past 39C no matter how long it runs, but 15 minutes of Crysis gets it to 49C and 30-60 mins of WoW to 52C


Looks like you need to reseat your CPU cooler or just wait for your Zalman to come. We still don't know what that "MB" temp sensor is.. But I never see mine go above 33 C ever. Even after gaming.







So I'm confused there.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YEKNODONKEY*


I have a question about pc probe II vs Core Temp. PC Probe always shows about 40c idle and core Temp shows on average about 8c to 10c higher at the same time. Which one is correct? Which one is closer to the real temp?

Thanks,

Donk



PC Probe gives you full on CPU temperature. That doesn't matter anymore.
Core Temp will give you the temperatures of the cores. That is what matters. And that is what you have to keep under 71C (IF you have a G0 stepping).


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
I have the pencil mod but I read that it's bad for the motherboard. The vdroop is there to prevent some voltage thingy.. Haha. Sorry I can't remember.

uh oh...let us know if you run across it again

@rob
your temps aren't that bad. 52 isn't far from what I used to get when playing crysis. 39 cpu on isn't anything to worry about either. When I was on air for the cpu, I usually was in the upper 30's idle.


----------



## Niner

Just a quick compatibility question: I have this mobo and it works pretty darn good for me (E6750 OC'ed easily to 3.2GHz without a voltage bump). I'm looking to upgrade to 4GBs and I was wondering if this kit would be compatible. I know the OP listed some G.Skill kits, but none of them were 4GB. Does anyone have any experience with this RAM?

Thanks!


----------



## bam2303

hi guys im new here and even newer to overclocking my pc, i have the asus p5n-e mobo and an intel pentium d 915 2.8ghz processor,4gb ocz vista ram, please could someone guide me thru overclocking my pc, iwould just like to get a bit more out of it but without having to go in to liquid cooling or anything to major, the only cooling i have changed is to a thermaltake golden orb 2 and my case is a recom zenith, any help would be greatly appreciated, i used the a1 overclock to do the 25% overclock but only one processor says 3.36ghz and the other remained on 2.8ghz but thats as far as i have gone because i know nothing about overclocking


----------



## _^MeRcY

so im sitting my E6600 at 3.2 and its very stable. id like to get above it, what kind of settings should i use ? ( originally 3.5 but forget settings after new bios update )


----------



## gelat

I have a E6600 B2, with stock cooling. I was wondering what I can do "as is" to air overclock this board. Specs are below.

What is safe? Based on what I have read, I think I can up my FSB from 255 to 300-320 with no NB voltage bump, and leave my memory unlinked, running at 800mhz.

With no NB volt bump, the stock HS should be ok, yes?


----------



## IFuXwiTuZ

what im trying to figure out is....HOW THE HECK DO YOU OVERCLOCK THIS BOARD?!?!?!? by changing the AI settings from 0 to 5% to 10% to 15% to 20% overclock...?!?!?! thats not a overclock well what im trying to figure out is my cousin got this board and i flashed his bios to the latest but i set the cpu settings from auto to AI tuner to Manuel and the only thing i could change is the multiplier from 6-7.....cvore and all that stuff but not the cpu timing.....i dnt get it? where do i find that? ...cool thing is that you could unlink the ram...but yea could someone give me some feed back....i prefer pics if possible


----------



## Niner

http://techgage.com/article/asus_p5n-e_sli/4

Those are the screens you need to be looking at to overclock the board. Don't use the automatic settings, those are crazy.


----------



## Simonraical

Hi. I'm looking to upgrade my RAM. Would the 650i be compatible with 4x2gb Corsair Dominators?


----------



## MrQ

What are the Speeds? But in any case I believe they will work.


----------



## Simonraical

Pc2-8500


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Simonraical*


Pc2-8500


The max you can run them at on this board is 1000mhz. But you wont be able to push them to that speed with any ram in the yellow slots.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


The max you can run them at on this board is 1000mhz.


Uh, no.

You can run them at 1066 but you'll need to overclock them. Technically you aren't overclocking them but in order to get them to hit those speeds you'll need to manually change settings in the BIOS.

As for the yellow slots being a no go I'm not sure about that. I probably wouldn't bother running 4x1gb because of the extra power it would eat up plus this board is known to be picky when it comes to memory. It didn't like my 2x1GB kit until I reseated it about 6 or 7 times while trying every possibly configuration.


----------



## r0b126

motherboard temp = 57 C after 30 minutes of WoW

This is a new high

the record high goes up every 10ish days

something is wrong


----------



## r0b126

59C

gonna try turning NB voltage down instead of auto


----------



## r0b126

I set it to 1.208

this is the lowest voltage setting available for the NB and I booted into windows at 45C

*** plz


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Uh, no.

You can run them at 1066 but you'll need to overclock them. Technically you aren't overclocking them but in order to get them to hit those speeds you'll need to manually change settings in the BIOS.

As for the yellow slots being a no go I'm not sure about that. I probably wouldn't bother running 4x1gb because of the extra power it would eat up plus this board is known to be picky when it comes to memory. It didn't like my 2x1GB kit until I reseated it about 6 or 7 times while trying every possibly configuration.


I found out with my Ballistics when i still used the P5N-E, that i wasnt stable running my ram at 1066mhz. But anything lower the 1000mhz i was perfrctly stable. That was with the correct voltage for the memory and 1.7 on the NB


----------



## micafranz

Just did my first overclock! e6320 to 3.0Ghz, woohoo!


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I found out with my Ballistics when i still used the P5N-E, that i wasnt stable running my ram at 1066mhz. But anything lower the 1000mhz i was perfrctly stable. That was with the correct voltage for the memory and 1.7 on the NB


Although I've heard that the black slots are more stable for some people, I've never used them.

I ran a 2x1GB set of 1066MHz dominators for a few months on the yellow slots. They worked perfectly on this board, both linked and unlinked. They did shine when unlinked though, running tighter. First time out, set Voltage at Corsair recommended, but eventually let them on Auto, and they ran at a lower voltage than what Corsair recommended.

Only reason I moved to my current OCZ sticks is 'cause I needed 4GB. A few months ago, the Dominators were at $250 to $300 for the 2GB set here in Sydney. 5 to 600 just for 4 gigs of RAM is way out of budget for me.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


I set it to 1.208

this is the lowest voltage setting available for the NB and I booted into windows at 45C

*** plz


We still don't know what that MB temp sensor is located or what it is. I read on the ASUS forums that it is located between the PCI slots, but I'm not sure.. You can reseat your NB and SB heatsink with better compound.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I found out with my Ballistics when i still used the P5N-E, that i wasnt stable running my ram at 1066mhz. But anything lower the 1000mhz i was perfrctly stable. That was with the correct voltage for the memory and 1.7 on the NB


Got my Tracers stable at 1066 MHz. Finally...


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


1.7 on the NB












Damn. That's a whole bunch of juice. Could it have been a problem with the memory controller because there are others running Ballistix at 1066 or beyond.

Congrats, micafranz. Are you stable with 6 hours of Orthos?


----------



## HAYWIREFIVE

can anyone help me which is the best slots to run my 2x1GB corsair XMS2c4 in and wot volts can only get 667 at the mo in the yellow ones. your help is apprieciated....


----------



## Perry

I have my memory in the 1st and 3rd slots. Ensure that you're going into your BIOS to set them to the manufacturer's timings and voltage.


----------



## VULKAR

i was told to go to the last page to introduce myself so i hope i'm doing the right thing. my name is brad and i'm a wanna be computer geek. i am so glad that i decided to go with the P5NE-SLI because i'm finding out more and more just how easy and forgiving this board can be for a beginner like myself. i am new to overclocking and i'm wanting to learn as much as possible because this board has so much potential. i bought this board for around $120, probably the best budget board you can buy right now.

anyways, since i was on a budget i had to go with a Pentium D 925 3.0Ghz. i found it for $95, not bad for the performance. but being a beginner like me i didn't know about the core 2s and how they have better performance and stability. so, what do you all think. i want to overclock this thing but is it worth it or should i just save up for the Q6600???


----------



## MrQ

Go with the core2's and save a headache. They are faster in gaming and work great on this board especially because it will overclock them. The Q6600 (My CPU) is difficult to overclock and the highest you can go on it is 3.04ghz. I suggest running either the new 45nm Core2 or one of the older 65nm Core2s (E6xxx and above). I have heard one person get to 4ghz off the E8400. I forget whether it was on air or water cooling, but my bet is the latter.

Oh BTW that isn't a budget build you got there, its a mid-build in my opinion.


----------



## 3rdworld

Whats up? New to Overclock.net and have this board and working on an OC. I have a e6700 13 hour orthos stable 400x8 @1.4v. I would love to get it to 400x9, but i have not been able to maintain stablity. It will boot but orthos fails after about 14 minutes or so. So my question is does anyone know of any tricks with this board, like i have read somewhere that it can help to push it a hair over 400 for stabilty., and that it does not like exactly 800 for the ram. Any help would be awsome.

Thanks


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Ok you have achieve about 2.6ghz. Thats pretty good. Your temps stayin all right? Don't use PC Probe use CoreTemp (google it). Ok time to crack into the voltages. If you have cpu-z bring it up and check the v-core voltage. Write it down. Boot into you bios and raise the voltage up ONE step from where it was on default v-core. (There is vdroop on this board so don't expect to have accurate readings from cpu-z just use it to gauge where the default is). Now slowly raise your FSB about by about 5. If you can still boot into windows, then go back to the FSB and raise it a bit more until you can't boot into windows. Once youve reached that point, hit me up back here with your results



i assume the "core voltage" in cpu-z is the v-core voltage u wanted me to check. I was around 1.264 so i changed my bios to 1.275 and was able to move my FSB up to 1170. Temps are in the low 30's right now.

Now what?


----------



## fump

Hi to all, experienced overclocker (Northwood and Prescott core) and semi-experienced system builder video-junkie and such.

Now on to the problem: I can't get my E6400 to run stable with any overclock at all, even the most simple FSB1333/DDR800 OC. (Memory timings and RAM voltages/VCore set manually to both JEDEC and EPP profiles, no dice.) No cooling issues, no stock stability issues

I feel like I should have tested the overclocking of these pieces before the return window at Newegg ran out...

Any advice is greatly appreciated, this thing has me damn near stumped.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YEKNODONKEY*


i assume the "core voltage" in cpu-z is the v-core voltage u wanted me to check. I was around 1.264 so i changed my bios to 1.275 and was able to move my FSB up to 1170. Temps are in the low 30's right now.

Now what?










Up your CPU voltage one more notch and raise your North bridge voltage up by one and try raising your FSB 1200. If it takes that push it following the same method of upping the FSB by 5 until you can't boot into Windows.

Your doing great!! 2.63Ghz right now on your BIOS is really good.


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Up your CPU voltage one more notch and raise your North bridge voltage up by one and try raising your FSB 1200. If it takes that push it following the same method of upping the FSB by 5 until you can't boot into Windows.

Your doing great!! 2.63Ghz right now on your BIOS is really good.


How do i know where to start with my Northbridge? It is set on auto. I looked in cpu-z and no northbridge value.

Thanks


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 









Damn. That's a whole bunch of juice. Could it have been a problem with the memory controller because there are others running Ballistix at 1066 or beyond.

Congrats, micafranz. Are you stable with 6 hours of Orthos?

Well i was using a swiftech mcw30 at the time.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:

How do i know where to start with my Northbridge? It is set on auto. I looked in cpu-z and no northbridge value.

Thanks
1 up from the auto setting.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YEKNODONKEY* 
How do i know where to start with my Northbridge? It is set on auto. I looked in cpu-z and no northbridge value.

Thanks

the 1.2 setting is probably same as Auto. So try 1.3.


----------



## raven117

Im having trouble getting my board past 3.35.Do you guys have any suggestions on voltages that i should use. Any help would be awesome thanks.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raven117*


Im having trouble getting my board past 3.35.Do you guys have any suggestions on voltages that i should use. Any help would be awesome thanks.











That's right where I maxed out at on the same CPU - mine seems power hungry and I just can't get stable at anything over that (staying below 1.5v).

I actually backed down to 3.2 for daily use as the zalman got too loud running at 3.35G - only a couple hundred more fan rpm's but enough to bug me.

lol - I think we were shopping in the same aisle at newegg; same CPU & MB, both WD caviar drives, 8600 series GPU, 2G ddr800 ram


----------



## Perry

Yay! A friend just dropped me off a new Delta (packaged as a Vantec) 60mm fan for my northbridge...FOR FREE!

Holy crap! Check this out...

"The Delta Black Label installs into the 60mm space in the case, and removes hot air out of the system at 37.61CFM. The fan runs at 6800RPM, and uses only 3.84w of power."

This thing is a mini-lawn mower! Tell me that won't sound like a 747 while keeping my northbridge nice and cool.


----------



## MrQ

*6800* RPM?!?!?!??! Wow!! I think you might want to put a fan controller on that bad boy. 37CFM?? I dunno about it sounding like a 747 did you check the decibels on the specs? If its anything like 40 Decibels you WILL hear something!


----------



## Perry

48dBa on this thing and unfortunately it's a 3-pin connector so there's no controlling it.

While I don't -think- my northbridge temperature is out of control with the voltage increased to 1.393 I'll install it and see how loud it is. If I'm in front of the computer chances are I have my cups on so noise isn't an issue.

It's my wife that has to put up with it.

I'm going to change my comparison from a 747 to a go kart on steroids.


----------



## MrQ

You don't need a 4 pin to control it. Most fan controllers are 3 pin. 4 pin is mainly used for the cpu fan.


----------



## Perry

Hmm...I thought the 4th pin was used to control the RPM's. Oh well. If I can control them then that's a bonus! I just have to figure out how to mount it. I'm thinking the good ol' zipties because of the large overhang on the northbridge heatsink.


----------



## MrQ

Or you could hot glue it. :lol:


----------



## ydoucare

Anybody experienced any stability or compatibility issues with the 608 BIOS? Recently upgraded to this board, and couldn't even last more than a minute or 2 on my desktop in Vista before it would hard lock. It would only run in safe mode, or if I reverted to standard vga driver. Ran ok in XP, except for 1 hard lockup while gaming. Upgraded to the 901 BIOS last night and Vista has been running since then with the latest WHQL Forceware off Nvidia's site (169.25) for Vista. Voltages and temps are fine. Still not sure if the BIOS upgrade totally solved my issue or not, will see soon.

Asus P5N-E SLI
E4500 - no OC, stock cooler with AS Ceramique
Transcend 2GB (2x1 GB) Dual Channel DDR2 800 (passed memtest86 with 0 errors)
PNY GeForce 8800GT 512 MB
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy + Front bay inputs
Hauppauge WinTV PVR-150MCE
Seagate 160 GB IDE
Hitache 80 GB IDE
Western Digital 40 GB Sata
2 DVDRW drives
Enermax 460 Watt (33A on +12, single rail)


----------



## Perry

0608 has been working like a charm for me. I'm the kind of person that doesn't like to flash his BIOS unless I run into a problem that I know can be attributed to it. 0608 so far seems very stable for most.

Is there any major reason why I would want to update the BIOS aside from other CPU's being added as in the previous version (08xx) and new memroy support for this one?


----------



## Simonraical

I have a overheating problem with my northbridge chipset, I'm not looking for a replacement heatsink, but I'd like to know how to get the existing one off =p. Its the one with two black push pins.


----------



## MrQ

Use this link here http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post3548503


----------



## Perry

Ok, this new fan scares the **** out of me!

Go kart on steroids? A whole pack of go karts having 'roid rage!

There's a reason why they sell a grill with it. According to speed fan this thing topped out at 7,180RPM! I have it turned down to half and it's still moving as much air as my 92mm exhaust fan.

I think I'll go carve a turkey with it.

Is there any way to control the speed through the BIOS? I tooled around with chassis fan option but no luck. It generates too much noise, air and most of all vibration until I can get into SpeedFan and shut it down to where I need it.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Ok, this new fan scares the **** out of me!

Go kart on steroids? A whole pack of go karts having 'roid rage!

There's a reason why they sell a grill with it. According to speed fan this thing topped out at 7,180RPM! I have it turned down to half and it's still moving as much air as my 92mm exhaust fan.

I think I'll go carve a turkey with it.

Is there any way to control the speed through the BIOS? I tooled around with chassis fan option but no luck. It generates too much noise, air and most of all vibration until I can get into SpeedFan and shut it down to where I need it.


Turning on QFan in the hardware monitor section should help. At least it won't be at max constantly. Personally, I would just get a fan controller like the Sunbeam Rheobus.

Has it helped temps at all?


----------



## Ned

Hi, I haven't posted to this thread in a few hundred pages, my system has been stable and now I am ready to boost it up. I have ordered a second video card and I am wondering what I need to know to install it and get SLI working.

My original card is:
EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB 768-P2-N831-BR

The new one coming is

EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB 768-P2-N831-AR

So the only difference is the AR / BR thing. My understanding is AR is new and BR has been returned and fixed and certified for use. If this is true that is not cool since it was supposed to be new with my PC. Anyway practically speaking they are identical.

Do you think my power supply is up to the task:

RP600-PCAR

I plan to delete the drivers, run driver sweeper then shut down and install.

I need to figure out what to do with the bridge and is there a switch on the board or anything?

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## swam4

Hi. My PC has been running fine for 6 months however, 2 weeks ago I began getting Blue screens whenever i start my computer after about 10s-1minute of being in Vista (x64 Ultimate). THE BSOD are usually PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA or IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL and have had system_service_exemption. After the restart the pc generally works ok. Recently programs have crashed more frequently so I ran memtest.

Memest found numerous errors. I also ran memtest86+ (v2.01) which also found many errors (esp during test 5). I have 4gb of ram (2 x 1gb of corsair, and 2 x 1gb of Geil 6400) I began by lowering memory speeds to 667, lower timings to 5-5-518-2T and played with higher and lower Ram voltages (1.8-2.2V). I recieved no errors with each stick individually (tested for 9hours each and tested a stick in each slot). I also get errors with just the 2 corsair in slots A1 and B1 or A1 A2. I reduced my CPU speed and enabled virtualization tech with no effect. I reinstalled vista with vista SP1. I heatsinked southbridge and added a fan to northbridge. I also changed the bios to the latest 0901 and then back down to 0608 and 0703 (all had memory errors). I have also unistalled norton 360, nvidia display drivers (8800GTS 640mb) and creative audio drivers for my X-fi. Anything else I can do would be very much appreciated??

Motherboard: p5N-e sli bios 0703
CPU: E6750 @ 3Ghz @ 1.33V / NB @ 1.4V
Ram: 2 x 1Gb PC2-6400. CM2X1024-6400C5DHX CORSAIR
2 x 1Gb PC2-6400 GEIL
5-5-5-18-2T @ 2.1V


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Turning on QFan in the hardware monitor section should help. At least it won't be at max constantly. Personally, I would just get a fan controller like the Sunbeam Rheobus.

Has it helped temps at all?

Here's hoping I win h00chi3's freebie give away then.

I'm a little let down that the BIOS doesn't let you limit the fan speed but that's beside the point. I'm not sure about temps since I haven't installed it but the northbridge heatsink with the extra voltage is VERY warm to the touch.

It definitely needs something so I'll give it a shot and see if it makes too much vibration and noise. I'm thinking it will.


----------



## r0b126

anyone know of a good site to get an HR-05 Chipset cooler from? newegg never has them and the price should be about $15 + shipping. not interested in paying $25 + shipping


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *r0b126* 
anyone know of a good site to get an HR-05 Chipset cooler from? newegg never has them and the price should be about $15 + shipping. not interested in paying $25 + shipping

Jab-Tech is where I got mine for a similar price to Newegg, and they have them in stock.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermalright-HR-05-pr-3350.html


----------



## Perry

Well that was a lesson in futility.

I just don't have the room to work. Oh well...maybe I'll get an active northbridge heatsink one of these days.


----------



## r0b126

bought one off http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ for $14.95+shipping ($6.20 for USPS priority 2-3 day)


----------



## r0b126

was forced to give up my overclock

4x 1GB Corsair XMS2 PC6400 will not boot on this board unless I up the NB voltage to 1.56 and underclock the memory to 667. Anything else and it won't even post.
(2x TWIN2X 2GB kits)


----------



## Perry

Yikes! I couldn't imagine running the northbridge at 1.5 without something on it.


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *swam4*


Hi. My PC has been running fine for 6 months however, 2 weeks ago I began getting Blue screens whenever i start my computer after about 10s-1minute of being in Vista (x64 Ultimate). THE BSOD are usually PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA or IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL and have had system_service_exemption. After the restart the pc generally works ok. Recently programs have crashed more frequently so I ran memtest.

Memest found numerous errors. I also ran memtest86+ (v2.01) which also found many errors (esp during test 5). I have 4gb of ram (2 x 1gb of corsair, and 2 x 1gb of Geil 6400) I began by lowering memory speeds to 667, lower timings to 5-5-518-2T and played with higher and lower Ram voltages (1.8-2.2V). I recieved no errors with each stick individually (tested for 9hours each and tested a stick in each slot). I also get errors with just the 2 corsair in slots A1 and B1 or A1 A2. I reduced my CPU speed and enabled virtualization tech with no effect. I reinstalled vista with vista SP1. I heatsinked southbridge and added a fan to northbridge. I also changed the bios to the latest 0901 and then back down to 0608 and 0703 (all had memory errors). I have also unistalled norton 360, nvidia display drivers (8800GTS 640mb) and creative audio drivers for my X-fi. Anything else I can do would be very much appreciated??

Motherboard: p5N-e sli bios 0703
CPU: E6750 @ 3Ghz @ 1.33V / NB @ 1.4V
Ram: 2 x 1Gb PC2-6400. CM2X1024-6400C5DHX CORSAIR 
2 x 1Gb PC2-6400 GEIL
5-5-5-18-2T @ 2.1V


Have you installed the hotfix for vista x64 think it is 929777?
also make sure you have the latest Nvidia drivers, the earlier x64 ones would crash your system as well.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


was forced to give up my overclock

4x 1GB Corsair XMS2 PC6400 will not boot on this board unless I up the NB voltage to 1.56 and underclock the memory to 667. Anything else and it won't even post.
(2x TWIN2X 2GB kits)


I had the same problem. I relaxed the mermory timings a bit, and lower my memory voltage to 1.920 or i would get hangs on boot or shortly thereafter.


----------



## scrugun

Concerning the 4 memory sockets, I'm using 1&3 , but last nite while benchmarking I was checking out other setups and many were using 2&4 is there any significance to this or is this merely a personal choice?


----------



## swam4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *3rdworld* 
Have you installed the hotfix for vista x64 think it is 929777?
also make sure you have the latest Nvidia drivers, the earlier x64 ones would crash your system as well.

thanks 3rdworld, I tried installing it and it seems SP1 vista comes with hotfix -I think its a pre-windows fault anyway. Got latest drivers for nvidia too. I'm going to try lowering the LDT freq to 4x or less to see if its a NB-SB problem


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scrugun* 
Concerning the 4 memory sockets, I'm using 1&3 , but last nite while benchmarking I was checking out other setups and many were using 2&4 is there any significance to this or is this merely a personal choice?

1 and 3 are the slots that I just decided to put my memory in and I've managed to overclock to 1000mhz without any issues. I think it may be personal preference although I'm sure some will say otherwise.


----------



## swam4

No difference changing the LDT frequency down to 4x and 1x. ASUS said to put the memory in unlinked mode (which it was) and to try new bios again - 0901. All lead to same, if not more errors. Will try emailing them again.


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

I INSTALLED A FREEZER PRO 7 AND THE FINS SIT ON THE NORTHBRIDGE AND I'M NOT SURE IF IT IS FULLY SEATED. MY Temps are running around 40 with no overclock under normal use, and around 50 in games. Do you think it is working properly?


----------



## lost

You should definetly bend thos fins so they dont make contact with anything metal.. Could be waiting for a short! NOT GOOD!


----------



## MrQ

The way you need to have it sitting is like this...










And you gotta do this to get it to fit on the stock NB HS


----------



## r0b126

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Yikes! I couldn't imagine running the northbridge at 1.5 without something on it.



CPU temp is 26C and mobo temp is 27C atm


----------



## Kopi

Hey fellas long time no see.

I think I have a good P5N-e. I'm swapping the heatsink for a souped up HR-05 and will be doing some intense benches in the next few weeks. Hoping for the 500 mark


----------



## xAn

Hi! I am going to buy this motherboard. Which c2d CPU do you recommend, not too expensive and for a little OCing too. I think something from e6600 to e8400...
Is the kingston ram good on it? 
I don't want nothing special for now, i'll buy new pc in december, just need something now.


----------



## stucknnola

Hi all! I built my machine last fall, first build for me. She runs great, but I'm ready to make the extra upgrades I had planned from the start. My current plan is to get some new memory. My current stuff is 2 sticks from my Dell 8600 and 2 value select sticks for a total of 2gb.

My thought was to get 2x2gb and upgrade to Vista Ultimate x64. After doing some research I'm having trouble finding memory that will work. I don't want to buy and return several times to hopefully get what I need. Luckily I came across this site and thread.

Would you P5N-E gurus have any recommendations on memory with the goal of 2x2gb?

My OC is via the AI at 20%. I've tried to go for more, but I haven't been very successful. If there are any other glaring problems with my build that I need to correct ASAP.... cooling, etc... please let me know.









Thanks,
g

(If I posted in the wrong place let me know.)


----------



## nickyyboyy

aa


----------



## ram45

Hello all, I am grateful to find this thread!
This has been my first build and attempt at overclocking. I have the P5N-E board, the E6750 [email protected] stock 2.66 ghz, g.skill 800mhz 2048 DDR2, 480 watt PSU, 8600gt 256.
For the longest time, any time I would run a game or graphical benchmark the program would crash saying an illegal operation caused the program to shut down. I would run Prime95 and get an error within 1 minute. It was seemingly a memory error, but memtest86 would return no errors. Finally, I updated the BIOS to 0901. Voila, no errors. I am able to run Prime95 overnight with no errors.
However, since I updated the BIOS to 0901, everytime I change any advanced settings in the bios, including memory timings, FSB, or voltages upon reboot I get no post and one uninterrupted beep. If I then restart via front panel, it boots up fine with the altered settings. Prime95 and Memtest86 run fine, but when I restart I get the beep and have to restart.
When I change all BIOS settings back to default, it boots fine. If I change even the FSB even 1 mhz, I get the beep.
Could anyone tell me what is causing this? It seems strange, considering that it runs stable. Thanks so much.


----------



## ram45

I would like to edit my previous post. I have done tasks one by one to see if they affect the post. 
I am able to change the memory timings from "auto" to 5 5 5 15 trc23.
I am able to alter voltage of both the memory and cpu.
I am able to change the FSB.

I am not able, however, to change the FSB







RAM ratio from "auto" (which reads 5:6) in cpuz, to 1:1. That is when it doesn't post emits one long continuous beep.


----------



## OptimusPrime

New Bios update 0901

just curious is anyone has installed them. I was just browsing for Bios updates because of odd problems with my E8400 (or maybe something else )
and found 0901. 08.. wasn't out that long i believe.

Not sure if this was posted already, but i installed them

Any input on them?


----------



## r0b126

ok, so I was having heating problems before... motherboard temps hitting 55-59C

Switched to an Antec 900 case, lapped the CPU and Zalman's heatsink, replaced the dynex silver on the CPU with AS5 (left it on the NB since I forgot to replace it before rebuilding).

New temps:
CPU idle 27C, load 32-33C
Mobo idle 28-30C, full load 35C

That 35C temp came from playing Crysis for 30 minutes. For some reason Crysis takes the mobo temp up way higher than Orthos does. Ran orthos and it was under 35.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


That 35C temp came from playing Crysis for 30 minutes. For some reason Crysis takes the mobo temp up way higher than Orthos does. Ran orthos and it was under 35.



It's likely (though no one knows for sure) that the MB temp sensor is in the PCI-E connector area, so when your hammering your graphics card with crysis it shows up with more heat to the MB sensor from the graphics card.


----------



## groowe

Greetings from another P5N-e SLi user...Running on an E4400 @ 2.66ghz (daily use, don't need more) under-voltage'd @ 1.175 BIOS (1.20v idle -1.15v load speedfan).

My mobo temp is 30-35(idle-load) with just 2 80mm chepers in the back for exhaust.
The CPU is running quite cool 28-40 (but that's not related).

The highest FSB I could ever reach was 350(didn't try higher due to my 10x cpu multiplier), and I don't really need more than 3500Mhz.

I am really proud of this MoBo, except for one big thing: The FSB HOLES!!!

Actually... the un-documented fsb holes....
It would be awsome if people could pose FSB frequencies they couldn't boot at.

Personally 310-340 on my board is a no-go (except for 333). It could be possible that holes differ fromone board to another, but I have no idea...


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

My memory says it is 800 mhz but it runs at 667 i think. Can someone explain how ram works. My ram was made to overclock i believe. How do i overclock it or make it run at the 800 or more. I have already set manually the 4 4 4 12 and it still shows 667. Also the mgf told me to put the memory voltage at 2.0 and i did that.

What is the best way to see the speed of the ram to make sure i'm getting the most out of it. I has hs's on it.

Thanks,

Don


----------



## groowe

Go into the Jumperfree config are in the BIOS, and manually set the RAM frequency to 800.
Might want to loosen the timings before this, because high Mhz and low timings don't go well(even though your sticks won't have any problem, better be sure, because memory settings are a ***** to restore).

After booting up at 800, you can start tightening the timings and adding more Mhz.


----------



## YEKNODONKEY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *groowe*


Go into the Jumperfree config are in the BIOS, and manually set the RAM frequency to 800.
Might want to loosen the timings before this, because high Mhz and low timings don't go well(even though your sticks won't have any problem, better be sure, because memory settings are a ***** to restore).

After booting up at 800, you can start tightening the timings and adding more Mhz.



I tried to put the 800 and it didn't like it. What exactly do you mean by "loosen the timings". I can't boot with anything over 710 mhz. My timings are set at 4 4 4 12 right now. If I do get it up to 800 will i tell a difference in speed, is it worth it?


----------



## MrQ

Go to 5-5-5-13. Higher numbers mean looser timings.


----------



## Mad Bomber

This is wifes puter and just don't get how to down load new bios. I have a 2 gig mem stick, but in the total dark on how to do it. Needs to be in TOTAL laymans terms.TIA


----------



## ydoucare

Is it normal for this board to lump a lot of devices on a single IRQ?

Right now, i'm sitting here with my 8800GT, SB Audigy, and Hauppauge ATCS/NTCS Tuner all on IRQ 16! I have to put the Audigy in the top PCI slot because I get no display on boot if I put it in the bottom (i'm about to trash this card, but I need it for my guitar). The Hauppauge tv tuner is a PCI x1 card so it goes in the only available x1 slot.

Is this normal?


----------



## Photokon

Hey guys, 1st time poster. I just got a Q6600 and Asus P5N-E and I'm having trouble overclocking. Rest of system is as follows:

- 500w PSU, 44A on 12v rails. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817194003
- 2x8800GT in SLI (currently have one out to remove any possible power problems)
- 2 hard drives
- 2x1GB PC5300 DDR2
- Windows XP

The system is completely stable at stock clocks. I can get the FSB up to about 290 before it starts giving me constant reboots during windows loading, or freeze ups at the bios start up (ie stops after it tells me bios number, never get to CPU info or IDE crap).

I have tried dropping the multiplier to 6 and upping the FSB past 350 to no avail. I've tried 300, 310, 333, 340, 350, 375, 400 and none work. I've tried having the memory locked up to 333, no luck. I've tried unlocked on all modes and no luck.

I've upped the NB voltage to 1.5, no luck. I've upped the CPU volt, but no luck.

Is this a common occurrence? The PSU worked on my AMD 64x2 4600+ @2.7, 2x8800gt SLI. I may go to the store tomorrow to "rent" a new PSU and see if it works, but what else could it be?


----------



## Perry

For those of you running your northbridge at 1.5v how does the cooler feel to the touch during or just after full load? At 1.393v mine is quite warm and I've reseated it with AS5 a month or two ago. I know the application is sound and I have had no stability issues.

I just wish I knew if there is a northbridge temperature sensor somewhere on this board and how we can tap into those readings so I could keep tabs on it. On top of that how hot can this get without causing damage?

***POST REPLIES***
Someone mentioned that they are using the AI Overclock function. Don't. You can get much higher if you take your time and tweak what is needed. With the AI Overclock you can only get to a 20% overclock but with a little patience (and many reboots) I easily got to 50%. It pays to do it yourself.

Photokon - You can fill in your system specs by using the User CP link at the top of the page. That'll give us more information on your rig so we can try and offer some advice.

ram45 - try setting your memory to unlinked. Chances are you have it set to auto or linked.


----------



## VULKAR

anyone know how well the AI Overclocking feature in the BIOS works???
you know the feature where it allows you to overclock the CPU by 5,10,15 and 20%. i have a Pentium D and i bumped it up to 20% and i went from 3.0ghz to 3.6ghz. ran stable for a while but not for long. i know there's a lot more to overclocking. it can't be this easy.

also when i want to increase the FSB. you know where you enter a DEC # and hit enter to accept. considering i'm using a pentium D 925 3.0ghz with 800 fsb, what DEC # should i start with??? ALSO WHERE IN THE HELL IN THE BIOS CAN I FIND THE CPU MULTIPLIER??? im using the 0803 bios version.

i hate asking all these questions but i believe this is where i should ask them.

thanks!!!


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Photokon* 
Hey guys, 1st time poster. I just got a Q6600 and Asus P5N-E and I'm having trouble overclocking. Rest of system is as follows:

- 500w PSU, 44A on 12v rails. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817194003
- 2x8800GT in SLI (currently have one out to remove any possible power problems)
- 2 hard drives
- 2x1GB PC5300 DDR2
- Windows XP

The system is completely stable at stock clocks. I can get the FSB up to about 290 before it starts giving me constant reboots during windows loading, or freeze ups at the bios start up (ie stops after it tells me bios number, never get to CPU info or IDE crap).

I have tried dropping the multiplier to 6 and upping the FSB past 350 to no avail. I've tried 300, 310, 333, 340, 350, 375, 400 and none work. I've tried having the memory locked up to 333, no luck. I've tried unlocked on all modes and no luck.

I've upped the NB voltage to 1.5, no luck. I've upped the CPU volt, but no luck.

Is this a common occurrence? The PSU worked on my AMD 64x2 4600+ @2.7, 2x8800gt SLI. I may go to the store tomorrow to "rent" a new PSU and see if it works, but what else could it be?

My complete guide here has helped out a few people OC their Q6600 to 3.0Ghz stable on the P5N-E mate. Hopefully it works for you too but the key is having bios 0608.


----------



## VULKAR

thanks for your help!

so i should use bios 0608. i've never flashed my bios before. how should i go from 0803 to 0608 without harming my computer??? i'm guessing i need a flash drive...


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VULKAR*


thanks for your help!

so i should use bios 0608. i've never flashed my bios before. how should i go from 0803 to 0608 without harming my computer??? i'm guessing i need a flash drive...


The guide shows you how to create a flash cd to easily downgrade your motherboard bios if you need but I as I've never tried it with a Pentium D, I don't know how much it will help you.


----------



## stucknnola

Good times today.

I bought some new ram. I looked through this site and noticed some one had similar ram so I figured it would be ok. OCZ 2gig sticks, sli ready. Would not post with them. Got it to post with one of my old 512 sticks and one of the OCZ sticks in the 3 slot. I went to change the sticks to both OCZs and since then it will not post, period. One of the times I tried to swap the sticks I touched the stick of RAM and then remembered to turn the power off. I'm a little worried. Everything powers on right, but it just won't post. Any ideas? Other than "dude, you fried you board" or similar.

Not a happy camper right now.

g


----------



## MrQ

OCZ has a very bad record with this board and a lot, I mean a lot of people find them unusable on the P5N-E SLi. I suggest RMAing your sticks and going with eirther corsair or crucial, some people even use adata and kingston. Those will work.


----------



## stucknnola

Problem is no longer the OCZ sticks. Board won't post with a singl stick of my old RAM that I had been running on earlier today. I can't get it to post, period, no matter what RAM set up I use.

g


----------



## stucknnola

When I use the reset or power button on the front of the case, nothing happens. I have to turn it off from the back via the power switch on my PSU.


----------



## stucknnola

Not sure what I did, but it now posts and runs fine with the OCZ sticks. Set the stock timings, 5-4-4-15 2T, and she runs fine. went back and upped the memory to 480 from 400 and she still runs well.

Still have the E6750 at 3.2 as I did before upgrading my memory.

Going to run orthos and see how it goes.

If all runs well would it still be advised to RMA and get corsair or crucial mem instead?

Thanks,

g


----------



## Photokon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddler1979*


My complete guide here has helped out a few people OC their Q6600 to 3.0Ghz stable on the P5N-E mate. Hopefully it works for you too but the key is having bios 0608.


edit: everything worked, I'm at the 608 bios and I'm at 3.0ghz. I'll still be switching out the mobo for something else though.

15,806 3DMARK 06 score!


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


Not sure what I did, but it now posts and runs fine with the OCZ sticks. Set the stock timings, 5-4-4-15 2T, and she runs fine. went back and upped the memory to 480 from 400 and she still runs well.

Still have the E6750 at 3.2 as I did before upgrading my memory.

Going to run orthos and see how it goes.

If all runs well would it still be advised to RMA and get corsair or crucial mem instead?

Thanks,

g


I heard so many stories of how bad the OCZ sticks are on this board, that it's unbelievable.

I am running this same 2x2GB SLI setup you have installed, with no problems. Running very stable at the same timings you have and @1.92Volts without any problems at all for a couple of months now.

I've run these OCZs on this board at 330, 400, 440, 490 and over 500 without a hicup.

If you want to RMA, it is your choice, but I'd say if it aint broken....

OCZ sticks works fine on this board, mate. Just set your timings manually, and u should be fine.


----------



## Perry

Back to this elusive northbridge temperature monitor.

I'm sure someone checked it out before but here it is anyway. In SpeedFan, even though sometimes waaaaay off for temperatures is reading one on the nForce2 SMBus. Now I know my southbridge isn't getting that warm but my northbridge...maybe...or maybe I need sleep but I am curous to see exactly what that nforce2 SMBus is all about.


----------



## Armadi110

wow, how have i missed this thread 662pages!


----------



## lost

Hey fellas.. just got my rig setup.. Cant seem to get the audio working... is there a trick!???

Its really starting to get frustrating ... ANY help would be appreciated!

Thanks

rob


----------



## sidzej

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


The 4 or 5 beeps with the video card removed is basically telling you that you have no video card so that isn't an issue. *This board should beep once* when you first boot so as was suggested before check all of your connections, make sure the CMOS is cleared...the usual stuff.


Guys, I need a help. I've just finished my first build and I get no beeps at all. All fans (2 in case, 1 in Video card, 1 for CPU. 1 in PSU) are working fine, but I get no video, no beeps, nothing.

The message above says, that this board should beep once. Does the motherboard have a PC speaker or should it be on the PC case? I've plugged the cable from front panel of my PC case to MB (checked that I am using the right connector) but I still get no beeps. I've also tried the usual things like motherboard with CPU without RAM outside of the case etc, but still the same result. No beeps at all. Do I need to buy some PC speaker to hear the beeps or is the problem somewhere else?

Sorry if these questions are too lame....but one has to start somewhere & somehow









Just to add: I haven't cleared CMOS yet, neither I updated the BIOS. Would it help?

My setup is as follows:

1 x Asus P5N-E SLI 650i Socket 775 PCI-E Onboard Audio ATX Motherboard 
1 x Corsair 2GB Kit (2x1GB) DDR2 800MHz/PC2-6400 XMS2 Memory Non-ECC Unbuffered CL5(5-5-5-12) Heat Spreader Lifetime Warranty (only 1 stick installed so far)
1 x Coolermaster Elite 330 Black Case With CM eXtreme Power 460W PSU 
1 x XFX 9600GT XT Edition 512MB GDDR3 Dual DVI HDCP HDTV out PCI-E Graphics Card 
1 x Intel Core 2 Duo E8200 Socket 775 (2.66GHz) FSB1333 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor

The following are ready but not yet installed (to mitigate conflict of other devices).

1 x Xilence Red Wing 120mm Quiet Fan - 3&4pin connection 
1 x Maxtor STM3250310AS 250GB SATAII 8MB Cache - OEM 
1 x Sony DRU-190S 20X DVDÂ±RW DL & DVD-RAM Serial ATA - Retail Multi Bezel & Nero

Thank you in advance for all your comments and help !!!


----------



## Kingflupps

Hi guys, I''ve just finished my first build and everything went suprisingly well. My temps seem fine and I'm very pleased with the stock performance but I'm itching to get up to a 3.0ghz stable OC. This is my first time OCing and I followed the guide and I've hit a few problems. With 1333fsb and my ram @ 667 4-4-4-12 (1:1) I can get into windows and run Orthos for 15mins fine. Idle temps are 33-36 with load temps between 46 -50 with MB temp at 35. I was over the moon having heard the problems people were having with the q6600 and this board. So I read that your system can only be considered stable after three consecutive 3dMarks so I ran it. The GPU tests went fine but when the cpu tests loaded about half way through the system would reboot. I currently have my Voltage at 1.15 with the +100 thingy making it 1.25. I have the ram at 1.9 and the NB at 1.3. These voltages are all what was recommended to start with in the guide. I read that if you can run orthos and get into windows then you are on your way to a stable OC. Could you guys help me out with where to go from here.

Thanks


----------



## Perry

sidzej, you would need to attach a small internal speaker to the header located on your motherboard. Most cases come with one and they're a must have when trying to diagnose why a system won't post. Since you've already done a good bit of troubleshooting I'd recommend going and buying a PC speaker. They shouldn't be any more than a couple of dollars. I'll hold off on saying what I think the problem may be until you can get back to us with what beeps you hear.

Kingflupps, your system sounds great. In order to really consider it stable I'd run a 6 hour test with Orthos but keep an eye on your temps for the first 10 minutes until they normalize a bit. I tend to do this so I know things won't get out of hand while I walk away from the computer. If Orthos checks out ok after 6 hours I'd run MemTest to 100%. If that checks out stable as well then you have yourself one sweet setup.


----------



## MrQ

*THIS IS THE GUIDE TO OVERCLOCKING A QUAD TO 3GHZ ON THE ASUS P5N-E SLI!!*


----------



## Yankeefan

Hi,
I followed the instructions to the T and when I flashed the bios from 903 to 608 I get an error message saying you can not downgrade the bios. Does anyone know a work around?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## lost

Fellas I really need some help... After putting this rig together I get nothing but instability!!!!!! Sound doesnt work...... dont know what to do!


----------



## Photokon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Yankeefan* 
Hi,
I followed the instructions to the T and when I flashed the bios from 903 to 608 I get an error message saying you can not downgrade the bios. Does anyone know a work around?

Thank you in advance.

you have to go from DOS and use the /f or /q? command that is listed on the guide.


----------



## b1gapl

Could you guys please help me get a 100% OC with my E2140? I am very close.

As of right now, my settings are:

Freq. - 3.1GHz (Around 93% OC)
FSB - 1550 (388)
RAM speed - Unlinked 800
Vcore - 1.425
Vcore Offset - Auto
NB - 1.563
RAM - 1.920

Any higher on the FSB and it wont boot. It doesnt boot with the Vcore set at 1.48125, which is the highest I tried on the Vcore.

I keep my RAM at 800, because the Corsair sticks I have, dont overclock well past their stock.

Any help is much appreciated.


----------



## lost

wow fellas please help me get some sound through this thing... this is rediculous... asus tech support knew absolutely nothing so i guess im SOL till my razer sc gets here...


----------



## SSJVegeta

What passive southbridge heatsink can I use on this board that would still allow me to install a second graphics card for SLI?

I currently have the Zalman ZM-NB32K but installing that prevents a second gfx card being installed.

http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/...ad.asp?idx=132


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


What passive southbridge heatsink can I use on this board that would still allow me to install a second graphics card for SLI?

I currently have the Zalman ZM-NB32K but installing that prevents a second gfx card being installed.

http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/...ad.asp?idx=132


Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX:
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==

Or the regular HR-05 SLI:
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==

Don't know if it's 100% compatible with the P5N-E, but there are other 650i chipsets on the list.


----------



## hel1011

Just wondering i needed to set my nb voltage to 1.56 to make my ram stable at 1t . Is this safe to do on stock cooling . Can i damage the motherboard?


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hel1011*


Just wondering i needed to set my nb voltage to 1.56 to make my ram stable at 1t . Is this safe to do on stock cooling . Can i damage the motherboard?


As long as your temperatures' in the safe range, you'll be ok. But it's really recommended that you get aftermarket cooling, when overclocking.


----------



## hel1011

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


As long as your temperatures' in the safe range, you'll be ok. But it's really recommended that you get aftermarket cooling, when overclocking.


i have a artic freezer 7 pro on my cpu what and how can i install something over my nb . and how can i check the temperature of nb to begin with and what would be a safe range


----------



## b1gapl

As long as the NB doesn't go over 60+C, on a daily basis, is what I consider safe.

You can get the Thermalright NB heatsink, like I suggested in my earlier post ( I think 2 or 3 above). If your motherboard supports it. Check out their compatibility list.

Or just put a small fan on the NB. I have 2 x 40mm at the moment, on mine.


----------



## hel1011

thanks for ur help

how do i see my nb temperature and how could i connect a fan to my northbridge?


----------



## b1gapl

Not sure about monitoring NB temps, because I haven't monitored mine before. But I'm guessing something like ASUS' Probe software? I'm not exactly sure what it's called.

And for mounting a fan on the NB....what I did, was use screws that were wide enough to wedge itself in the fins of the stock NB heatsink, without it budging or moving.


----------



## lost

Hello out there... Anyone have any trouble with the onboard sound not working... Cant seem to get any help.. Just gettin run over by oc'ers....


----------



## connorjt2

hello im connor








i have a pretty good rig not bad
but since i dont wanna look thru all the post i need help because 
65 %(guessing) i get bsod at shut down 
i think it is the ram
any help would be great
it says something is new or somthing thanks


----------



## marsey99

@lost

other than it being off in your bios or disabled in windows m8 im not sure what to tell you.

what you got a p5nesli not to oc ??









*edit*

quick question guys, whats the highest you have had your ram in this mobo and what was your best totally stable speed? i only ask as i cant keep mine 100% stable much above 1000 but i have been able to post and boot upto 1150 ish.


----------



## raven117

I am buying a new power supply today and i have been debating sli or not. My only concern is that our boards only run 8x and 8x in SLI with this bring a performance decrease to SLI? i know my performance will still go up but do 2 cards really use all 8x bandwith?


----------



## Photokon

No, I really doubt you'll see any performance difference.


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raven117* 
I am buying a new power supply today and i have been debating sli or not. My only concern is that our boards only run 8x and 8x in SLI with this bring a performance decrease to SLI? i know my performance will still go up but do 2 cards really use all 8x bandwith?

I had the same concerns when I started my build. Although I read that there would only be a real 5% loss in performance when going 8x/8x in SLI w our board, I ended up without the two cards, but with an overclocked 8800. If you need that much on the GPU side of things (SLI now) go for it. But I don't think you'll notice it unless you are using DHCP, 1080P, 1080i, or more than 1920x1200. Or a very fast game that lives in the upper speed ranges all the time.

I f I was in your shoes, I'd get a PSU with enough headroom and flexibility for future changes, even if u don't do SLI now. You can always slap in the second graphics card later.


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raven117* 
I am buying a new power supply today and i have been debating sli or not. My only concern is that our boards only run 8x and 8x in SLI with this bring a performance decrease to SLI? i know my performance will still go up but do 2 cards really use all 8x bandwith?

At max resolutions of something like 1680x1050 then 8x SLi is documented to be about 0.1% lower than 16x SLi with cards like the 8800's. The higher you go after that the higher the gap gets and the bottleneck becomes more apparent. Apparently it can be as much as 20% in some games when you are running with resolutions in the 2000's. But then again, how many of us here are doing that?


----------



## raven117

considering i d0ont game above 1600x1200 i dont think it will matter and i might be buying a new board in a couple of moths anyway.


----------



## tronath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *connorjt2*


hello im connor








i have a pretty good rig not bad
but since i dont wanna look thru all the post i need help because 
65 %(guessing) i get bsod at shut down 
i think it is the ram
any help would be great
it says something is new or somthing thanks


hi. are you using 2 sticks of ram or just 1? If 2, try each one individually.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Are the yellow RAM slots still unstable with the newer BIOS versions like 0608 and 0703?

I've had this board for nearly a year and have always had my RAM in the black slots since in earlier BIOS versions the yellow slots were unstable.

Has that at all changed? If so, I want to install my RAM in slot 1 and 2 and maybe upgrade to 4GB and XP 64-bit.


----------



## web-blade

Hi all, Web-blade here from Ireland. I'm interested in overclocking and hope you can help me get started. Ive been reading a few newbie forums and think I understand the basics. Today I raised my FSB from 1066 to 1086 just to start somewhere and tested with OCCT and failed the test after 10mins. I then raised the vcore from 1.24 to 1.26 and still failed. Ive tested 3 times at stock with OCCT for 1hr each time and all passed. Ive got my system watercooled and my highest CPU temp during the passed tests was 42c. The highest core temps were 54 and core #3 is always about 5c lower than the other 3 cores. Can anyone help me get started with this please? I also have the northbridge watercooled so I have the heatsink left over from it and Im wondering if it would be a good idea to fit it to the southbridge?


----------



## b1gapl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


Are the yellow RAM slots still unstable with the newer BIOS versions like 0608 and 0703?

I've had this board for nearly a year and have always had my RAM in the black slots since in earlier BIOS versions the yellow slots were unstable.

Has that at all changed? If so, I want to install my RAM in slot 1 and 2 and maybe upgrade to 4GB and XP 64-bit.


I have sticks in the black slots, and one stick in one of the yellow slots. Works fine for me. I'm on 0608.


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *b1gapl*


I have sticks in the black slots, and one stick in one of the yellow slots. Works fine for me. I'm on 0608.


You realize you are kiling your memory bandwidth by doing that right? For dual channel you need a stick in each of the matched slots. If you want to not waste money with something over 3G use 2 512 sticks in the yellow slots. Or you could buy another 1G stick and put it into to keep dual channel config, but 32bit xp won't use it.

Refer to page 1-17 in the MB user guide for details, but Blk1+Ylw1 must equal Blk2+Ylw2 for dual channel


----------



## lost

So how do you check your bios version? Also.. Should i be using the black or yellow slots.. Seems to be mixed oppinions on that subject!!


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *web-blade*


Hi all, Web-blade here from Ireland. I'm interested in overclocking and hope you can help me get started. Ive been reading a few newbie forums and think I understand the basics. Today I raised my FSB from 1066 to 1086 just to start somewhere and tested with OCCT and failed the test after 10mins. I then raised the vcore from 1.24 to 1.26 and still failed. Ive tested 3 times at stock with OCCT for 1hr each time and all passed. Ive got my system watercooled and my highest CPU temp during the passed tests was 42c. The highest core temps were 54 and core #3 is always about 5c lower than the other 3 cores. Can anyone help me get started with this please? I also have the northbridge watercooled so I have the heatsink left over from it and Im wondering if it would be a good idea to fit it to the southbridge?


Hello chief. Check the guide that is linked to in my signature for all you need to OC the Q6600 on the P5N-E.

I'm surprised that your temps are that high with watercooling, what are you using to measure the temp? Also, did you fit the water cooling block with some Arctic Silver thermal grease? And finally, you can forget about cooling the southbridge with your old northbridge heatsink as its way way way to big. Check my guide again for the solution I'm using to cool the southbridge.

Good luck.


----------



## web-blade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *diddler1979* 
Hello chief. Check the guide that is linked to in my signature for all you need to OC the Q6600 on the P5N-E.

I'm surprised that your temps are that high with watercooling, what are you using to measure the temp? Also, did you fit the water cooling block with some Arctic Silver thermal grease? And finally, you can forget about cooling the southbridge with your old northbridge heatsink as its way way way to big. Check my guide again for the solution I'm using to cool the southbridge.

Good luck.

Thanks for replying. Yes I used Akasa silver based thermal compound. Was this a bad paste to use? I'm using PC Probe 2 to measure the CPU and OCCT to measure the individual cores. I thought temps were a bit high myself as I only installed the watercooling a few day's ago and I wasn't impressed with the temp drops towards the air cooling. Lucky to be 10c lower. My loop is 3/8" ID and I have 2 quick connect couplings on the loop that are only 1/4" ID and my aquabay reservoir also only 1/4" which I think is causing the problem. Needless to say I'm waiting on a T piece to be delivered so I can get rid of the aquabay and I'm also waiting on 2 3/8" ID nylon hose conectors to replace the couplings. Any more comments or tips please I'd much appreciate them. Thanks for the guide I'm on it right away!


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *web-blade*


Thanks for replying. Yes I used Akasa silver based thermal compound. Was this a bad paste to use? I'm using PC Probe 2 to measure the CPU and OCCT to measure the individual cores. I thought temps were a bit high myself as I only installed the watercooling a few day's ago and I wasn't impressed with the temp drops towards the air cooling. Lucky to be 10c lower. My loop is 3/8" ID and I have 2 quick connect couplings on the loop that are only 1/4" ID and my aquabay reservoir also only 1/4" which I think is causing the problem. Needless to say I'm waiting on a T piece to be delivered so I can get rid of the aquabay and I'm also waiting on 2 3/8" ID nylon hose conectors to replace the couplings. Any more comments or tips please I'd much appreciate them. Thanks for the guide I'm on it right away!


Akasa silver paste should do the job as long as it was applied correctly. Personally I use Arctic Silver 5 paste but thats my preference.

Core Temp is probably a better program to monitor your CPU temps instead of the Asus Probe.

Not sure about your watercooling solution but my temps overclocked at 3.0Ghz idle at 38-> 42 degrees and max out at 55 -> 59 degrees with my Thermaltake heatsink and fan on full load so I'd be expecting a big difference with a watercooling setup.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


For dual channel you need a stick in each of the matched slots. If you want to not waste money with something over 3G use 2 512 sticks in the yellow slots. Or you could buy another 1G stick and put it into to keep dual channel config, but 32bit xp won't use it.

Refer to page 1-17 in the MB user guide for details, but Blk1+Ylw1 must equal Blk2+Ylw2 for dual channel


You can run 2 sticks in a dual channel setup by installing one in a yellow slot and one in the black slot right (DIMM_A1 + DIMM_A2) or is it that even if you have 2 sticks you need to have both in the same colour slots?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


You can run 2 sticks in a dual channel setup by installing one in a yellow slot and one in the black slot right (DIMM_A1 + DIMM_A2) or is it that even if you have 2 sticks you need to have both in the same colour slots?











No, our MBs are color coded so you put 2 sticks in the same color. I think maybe msi color codes differently where u want 1 in each color, but not on this board. Main point I was trying to make with my last post is 3 sticks bad, 2 or 4 good


----------



## marsey99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *diddler1979* 
...my temps overclocked at 3.0Ghz idle at 38-> 42 degrees and max out at 55 -> 59 degrees with my Thermaltake...

thats on a quad, my duo idles 26/28c and only hit 35c under full load but my cores can jump to 55c ish.

this is in a case @ 24c and room @22c


----------



## connorjt2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tronath*


hi. are you using 2 sticks of ram or just 1? If 2, try each one individually.


i am using 2
i am using these
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231098
they are in the second and 4th slots thanks for the help


----------



## Kingflupps

Hi guys, you were all recently great in helping me OC my new build. Its is running superbly and Im really chuffed. I've just got one query, I've noticed that in the FMV sequences of all my older games (dawn of war + expansions) the graphics are quite blocky. I've run the ati artifact tool and it didnt find any problems, I have the latest drivers for my 8800gt and all my newer games fmv's - Bioshock, Supreme Commander, Crysis run a lot better although still a tiny bit blocky. I've run 3dMark06 3 times with no problems and the artifact scanner and the nvidia stability test and all have said everything is fine. What do you guys think is the problem. I don't know if the fact my screen is 22" has anything to do with it but I've noticed that when the Nvidia logo spins at the beginning of the older games it looks jerky despite fraps showing 60+ fps. All the ingame graphics are brilliant I just wanted to make sure that this wasn't a simple motherboard/cpu/gpu setting or driver issue. There is always the chance I am just being too picky. My gpu temps are 41-44 idle and 60 on max load. my cpu are 24-31 idle (i have a cold basement) and 39-44 load. Any ideas? cheers. Dave


----------



## keith12

Hello,
Well I'm a complete noob when it comes to overclocking, with all the new tech out there at the mo. I've recently overclocked my system to a small degree. But I'm now experiencing a lot of different problems( prob related to the same thing?â€¦Iâ€™m not sure) So I really hope that someone/anyone can point me in the right direction.

System specs:
Commodore G
Q6600 2.4 G0 Stepping 1.3 VID
Asus P5N-E SLI BIOS 0803/0901

Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400 (2 x 1gb)5-5-5-18 2T @1.9v
GF 8800GTS 320
SB Audigy SE
550 Watt Ice Cool PSU.
BIOS 0803/0901
Updated Drivers
Windows Vista SP1

Well, I initially wanted a moderate overclock, and would have been quite happy with 2.8-3.0 ghz as a target. I managed to get a stable overclock to 2.8 with a linked FSB running at 622/1244 Ram Timings 44412 2T with 1.3 VID(Coretemp). Ram Voltage on Auto. This on bios 0803. Temps on this setting were always mid 30â€™s idle mid to late 40â€™s full load.
After reading endless amounts of posts on various sites, I saw that a lot of people recommended having an unlinked FSB @ 800/1333 with looser timings which might yield better results, and naturally I wanted to get another small increase on my 2.8 ghz. I tried this without much success, as I was afraid to push voltages as I really don't know the limits of these things ( ram, cpu, MB). 
Reading on more posts, I saw further suggestions of Updating Bios, reinstalling windows ( to get a clean system, I assume) and trying again.

This is where my problems began. I didn't really know the exact route to take, so I updated to the latest bios 0901 first. Then installed Vista, Updated Drivers, Installed SP1 ( this was all done on stock settings, which seemed 100% stable.
The minute I started overclocking again to my previous moderate overclock, i got system hangs, BSODâ€™s, Hardware failure (also in Blue Screen) and a very slow loading OS. When Vista finally would get to the desktop, I would have perhaps a 5 min wait while the disk is active, and the system is very unresponsive.

My first thought was to back off, and select a lower FSB combo, and work back up, but the best I can now get is 
CPU @ 2.61 unlinked , FSB 800/1160 Timings 55518 2T @ 1.9v all other settings to auto. The FSB ratio is a little odd 18: 15 or 15:11 or something very close to that. The previous stable 2.8 OC in Linked mode, simply does not work now.
The system is still acting strange, and by that I mean, when it cold boots, it boots up fine and quickly to the desktop with no disk activity once Vista has loaded. Whatâ€™s bizarre is when I restart the computer at any point, Vista will take ages to reboot, and when it gets to the desktop the 5 min disk activity kicks off again
Once it settles it seems okay and can run stability tests for hours with no errors. 3d mark Scores seem reasonable for my specs @ 10800 or thereabouts.
I donâ€™t understand what has changed so substantially to make the system so unstable with respect to the slightest increase in FSB beyond my current overclock level (2.61 ghz @ fsb 800/1160)
Iâ€™m tempted to just start from scratch again but would like your suggestions on the best course i.e update Bios 1st, OS install 2nd, etc.etc. 
Or perhaps someone will be able to say â€œwell try this setting, and see how you get onâ€. Iâ€™m a bit lost. Maybe I should just stick to stock settings, and get on with it. But after reading all the joy some people are having with these boards and processors, I feel somewhat cheatedâ€¦lol.
Seriously though, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Sorry this may be important so I will include it. CPU-Z is acting funny too.
When I set the bios to default for example , and all the settings revert in the bios to their defaults, yet CPU-Z still shows the previous overlocks details. Even though the defaults are CPU 2.4 FSB 800/1066 it still show the settings from above. The ram timings do change, but everything else in CPU-Z seems locked!!

All the best

Keith


----------



## MrQ

Check the guide in my sig for ocing a quad on this board.


----------



## jbobb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kingflupps*


Hi guys, you were all recently great in helping me OC my new build. Its is running superbly and Im really chuffed. I've just got one query, I've noticed that in the FMV sequences of all my older games (dawn of war + expansions) the graphics are quite blocky. I've run the ati artifact tool and it didnt find any problems, I have the latest drivers for my 8800gt and all my newer games fmv's - Bioshock, Supreme Commander, Crysis run a lot better although still a tiny bit blocky. I've run 3dMark06 3 times with no problems and the artifact scanner and the nvidia stability test and all have said everything is fine. What do you guys think is the problem. I don't know if the fact my screen is 22" has anything to do with it but I've noticed that when the Nvidia logo spins at the beginning of the older games it looks jerky despite fraps showing 60+ fps. All the ingame graphics are brilliant I just wanted to make sure that this wasn't a simple motherboard/cpu/gpu setting or driver issue. There is always the chance I am just being too picky. My gpu temps are 41-44 idle and 60 on max load. my cpu are 24-31 idle (i have a cold basement) and 39-44 load. Any ideas? cheers. Dave


I believe this would be normal. For some games the FMV clips at the beginnign or during the game, are usually blocky and not the same quality as the in-game graphics. I have a few games with crappy quality FMV sequences also, so there should be no need to worry.


----------



## marsey99

lol at page no :twisted:

anybody got an e8200 in this mobo yet?


----------



## jhchoi01

Hello everyone!

Been browsing this long long thread for quite some time now. Good to see many people having great results with this board.

Yesterday, I installed my Thermaltake Extreme Spirit on my burning NB. The temps seemed to have stayed the same though. My mb temp is at idle - 37C and at load (Prime 95 - blended test) hits 39C. My rig is OCed to 3.6 with a FSB speed of 1600. I wanted to try to hit 4.0 but wanted to make sure my NB was cool enough. Is my temp ok? It seems most people have much better temps with their NB cooler. Should I reseat it? When I do, the AS5 only covers the small NB chip correct?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.


----------



## marsey99

yes mate, and make sure none gets onto the green pcb around the chip as it is metal and conducts elctricity.

i have mx-1 on mine and it works well, personally i dont think i would be overly concerned about those temps as you are running sli and that will heat your mobo slightly more than mine with 1 card.

how are you finding your 8400? i have just dropped a 8200 in mine and it works well but i fear my mobo will fall over before my cpu does


----------



## jhchoi01

My local Fry's had it in stock when it first came out. I guess I was just lucky.

To clarify, I should apply the AS5 to the small die only correct and not on the base of the heatsink? I'm just a little paranoid because the nb seems to get REALLY hot!!!

Thanks for your quick response.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jhchoi01*


Yesterday, I installed my Thermaltake Extreme Spirit on my burning NB. The temps seemed to have stayed the same though. My mb temp is at idle - 37C and at load (Prime 95 - blended test) hits 39C.


There's no guarantee that the motherboard temperature value reported by various applications is the northbridge temperature. From what I've read nobody seems to know if there is one on this board and I'm thinking there isn't. Pretty lame of Asus since Gigabyte boards (DQ series I think) give temperature readings of the northbridge and southbridge.


----------



## web-blade

Hi guy's, I finally had a sucessful overclock yesterday. I raised my FSB from 1066 to 1155 giving me 2.6GHz. I tested for 1hr with OCCT and passed with max CPU temp 42c. I then tested for 8hrs with prime95 and also passed with no problems. I have FSB mode set to unlinked. Thing is I left my Vcore voltage set to auto. I know auto might not work with the next OC I do and I may set to manual. The Vcore voltage at the minute changes between 1.28 & 1.30 so if my next OC fails will I up to around 1.32v as I'm not sure how slowly to raise the voltages or should I just try with auto set first? I'm thinking of shooting for FSB 1244 on my next adventure bringing me to 2.8GHz. Is this a bad idea? Should I be moving a little slower? Any input appreciated.


----------



## marsey99

web stop being a girl and just go for 3ghz

turn off all the options in your bios you dont need like vitualisation, spectrum spread, and the likes, set your cpu/ram to unlinked and your ram to its spec (iirc 800 mhz 4-4-4-12 1.9v?) then give your cpu 1.4v (turn on the +100mha and set it as 1.30v), nb 1.4v and set your fsb to 1333.


----------



## web-blade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


web stop being a girl and just go for 3ghz

turn off all the options in your bios you dont need like vitualisation, spectrum spread, and the likes, set your cpu/ram to unlinked and your ram to its spec (iirc 800 mhz 4-4-4-12 1.9v?) then give your cpu 1.4v (turn on the +100mha and set it as 1.30v), nb 1.4v and set your fsb to 1333.


I think your right. Sure whats the harm







. What exactly is the +100mha?


----------



## SSJVegeta

Are the yellow RAM slots stable enough for use now? They were known to be quite unstable in the past.


----------



## web-blade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
web stop being a girl and just go for 3ghz

turn off all the options in your bios you dont need like vitualisation, spectrum spread, and the likes, set your cpu/ram to unlinked and your ram to its spec (iirc 800 mhz 4-4-4-12 1.9v?) then give your cpu 1.4v (turn on the +100mha and set it as 1.30v), nb 1.4v and set your fsb to 1333.

They say in the beginners forum to take baby steps and every one's system no matter if the same type react differently to OC settings. They couldn't be more right. I set my system up as you said and it wouldn't post or let me into the Bios. I restarted the system several times and still noting. The motherboard wouldn't reset the Bios to default after the failed boot so I had to do a manual reset with the jumpers. Thanks for the tip but I think I'll stick to baby steps.







Also you said to turn on the +100mha and set it as 1.30v. I was able to turn it on but could not find an option to set it as 1.30v?


----------



## web-blade

Can anyone tell me if there's a fix for the Bios not resetting itself after failed boot? I'm using the latest Bios version as far as I know.


----------



## MrQ

Web, check the guide in my sig for pushing your quad to the limit.


----------



## web-blade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


Web, check the guide in my sig for pushing your quad to the limit.


MrQ , your a legend. The tips you have for flashing the bios alone are fantastic. I have been worried about flashing my bios because I recieved no bios recovery cd with my PC like I should have and if a flash failed I would have been stuck. I will try your solution and post back my results in the coming day's. Thanks pal.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
Are the yellow RAM slots stable enough for use now? They were known to be quite unstable in the past.

Forgot to add, which BIOS is best to use? 0608?


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *web-blade* 
MrQ , your a legend. The tips you have for flashing the bios alone are fantastic. I have been worried about flashing my bios because I recieved no bios recovery cd with my PC like I should have and if a flash failed I would have been stuck. I will try your solution and post back my results in the coming day's. Thanks pal.









The credit belongs to diddler1979. If everything works make sure to rep+ him. And 0608 is the best.


----------



## Tufelhunden

Strange question, but. It appears spec wise the P5N-E is the same board as the P5N-D, with the D just getting the PCIE 2.0. Does anyone have confirmation of this. BTW if this is a problem please delete this post.


----------



## marsey99

it also has 2 pcie2 x 16 iirc

@ssj

the yellow slots normally do upto ddr800, the black slots tend to go a bit higher.

@all anybody know what the bios option cpu L/2 does?


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tufelhunden* 
Strange question, but. It appears spec wise the P5N-E is the same board as the P5N-D, with the D just getting the PCIE 2.0. Does anyone have confirmation of this. BTW if this is a problem please delete this post.

The P5N-D also does x16,x8 in SLi mode.


----------



## Tufelhunden

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
The P5N-D also does x16,x8 in SLi mode.

Seems to be some debate on that, different parts of the ASUS website say different things. Is there anyway I can check as I have SLI 8800GT's.

The reason I asked the original question is I am thinking the OC guide for this Board may be a good refernce point for the P5N-D.


----------



## SSJVegeta

A n00b question but if memory isn't supplied with enough volts can you get BSOD and freezing in Windows without error?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
@ssj

the yellow slots normally do upto ddr800, the black slots tend to go a bit higher.

Is there any BIOS version that solves the yellow slot instability?


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tufelhunden* 
Seems to be some debate on that, different parts of the ASUS website say different things. Is there anyway I can check as I have SLI 8800GT's.

The reason I asked the original question is I am thinking the OC guide for this Board may be a good refernce point for the P5N-D.


Thats taken straight off Nvidia's website.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_750i_sli.html


----------



## Tufelhunden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Thats taken straight off Nvidia's website.

http://www.nvidia.com/object/nforce_750i_sli.html


Thats also for the NVIDIA board. The Asus website states the ASUS is 16 by 16.

http://usa.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...33&modelmenu=1

But what I am really after is whether the chipsets are the same for overclocking. From what I gather the 750 chip set is really just a 650 chipset with a different controller to allow PCIe 16 2.0.


----------



## marsey99

i guess you will be the test subject then









what are the options in your bios for your cpu, mem and chipset?


----------



## Tufelhunden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


i guess you will be the test subject then









what are the options in your bios for your cpu, mem and chipset?


Good thought. I'll take some photos and post the results. Probably not tonight as I just finished install my Xigmatec cooler and I am testing it right now.


----------



## Steele84

Hey fellas, I am like many noobs on this sight to overclocking.This is the board that I have and I have some questions. So I just starting clocking my processor (Q6600) and I think I got it just about maxed out with out touching anything except the FSB (QDR) at 1196MHz. I haven't messed with any other settings b/c I'm really not sure what they all do and which does what. What I would like to know is what should I manually set this board up for starting my overclock ( like a default for overclocking). I apologize for not having all the knowledge of overclocking but I think the only way to truly learn is to jump in and try it out. Any and all advice would be appreciated, thanks !


----------



## seanx

Hi guys been following this thread for a bit and read from page 600 or so,
just got this mboard 3 days ago, and can't seem to load vista32 successfully?
I loaded vista64 briefly but this too blue screened after 2 shut downs.
I haven't really tried any o'clockin just yet , simply trying to get a stable system .....I have moved mem volts to 2.03 or something, and set 
NB volts to one step from auto , vcore at 1,3v , mem timings at auto
5 5 5 31 (however with timings I have played around a lot hoping this would solve the problem but no, have tried 4 4 4 12 , 4 4 4 15 , 5 4 4 15 and more)
WinXP installs fine btw , except onboard network seems faulty ? can't see
any1 on my local network, have installed a pci one for now.
Stock bios was 0703 I think , so I also tried 0901 but no change just yet?

I will try downgrade the bios to 0608 sometime and see if that makes any change.....

Help ?!!!

I have OCZ platinum 2 800mhz ( 4 x 1 gig) and hynix 667mhz ( 2 x 1 gig)
2180 chip , BFG 9600GT , stock cooler for now.


----------



## Perry

I can't find it now but there's some test results that show a 750i MSI board doing just as well as a 780i board. I'll have to go hunting for it.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steele84*


Hey fellas, I am like many noobs on this sight to overclocking.This is the board that I have and I have some questions. So I just starting clocking my processor (Q6600) and I think I got it just about maxed out with out touching anything except the FSB (QDR) at 1196MHz. I haven't messed with any other settings b/c I'm really not sure what they all do and which does what. What I would like to know is what should I manually set this board up for starting my overclock ( like a default for overclocking). I apologize for not having all the knowledge of overclocking but I think the only way to truly learn is to jump in and try it out. Any and all advice would be appreciated, thanks !


Check the guide in my sig.


----------



## Shroud

Hey whats up guys...well Ill be honest...I didnt read with 669 pages...sorry! But I do have a couple questions about this MB and cooling.

Im looking at ordering the ZEROtherm Nirvana NV120 120mm 2-ball UFO Bearing / Transparent CPU Cooler Im 99% sure it'll clear the RAM...worse comes to worse Ill move the RAM to the furtherest two slots...but will I have NB clearance issues?

Am I better off buying a a new heatsink for the NB or adding a small fan t the current one, if so...any recommendations that will clear that CPU cooler?

Is a simple heatsink enough for the southbridge?


----------



## ulua56

Received my RMA P5N-E from Asus, loaded with bio's 0608. It had 0803. Running great so far.


----------



## marsey99

Shroud
you may have better results overclocking your ram in the black slots as alot of people have found the yellow ones to be limited. as for that fitting i dont know, you could look thru the sigs to see if anyone has that combo but i dont know, it should fit one way another.

you can do both really with the nb, i screwed a 60mm fan to the stock one and then replaced it with a noctua heatpipe one with the stock intel fan tied to it. i have added a double height heatsink to my sb and my g card only just fits but it would need to be changed if i wanted to sli.

ulua56
yea, 404 for 65mn duos 608 for quads.


----------



## web-blade

Hi guy's, Ive been overclocking my board today. Ive set my FSB to 1337 because it would not post with 1333 no matter what voltage I used. 1337 strap worked straight away with Vcore set to 1.4v. I tested for 30mins with OCCT and passed. I then tested with prime95 for 6hrs and passed. But when I shut down and try restart it wont post. Is there anything I can finetune? I have bios v0608 and I have spread spectrum disabled. I have it set to unlinked. All other voltages are set to auto. I tried 1.42v but still noting. Ive moved to the next nbcc strap so Im on 1341 now with 1.4v. I havn't tried restarting yet as I wanted to ask you first if anything else can be fine tuned first.


----------



## Steve096

I started having problems with my sig rig recently. I used to have it OC'd to 3.2 Ghz without any problems at all. As a matter of fact, on my first attempt of OCing it, i took a guess as compared to what other people have gotten up to with similar rigs and guessed right. It was completely stable in all 3 types of tests in orthos and prime 95 for 24 hours each and memtest86+. I recently made some changes to my rig. I took the whole rig apart and installed MOSFET heatsinks, installed DIMM heatsinks on 2 my memory sticks, reseated my CPU heatsink, and installed a new fan and cold cathodes for a little visual boost. I put it all back together, and on my first boot, it didn't post. On the second one it did (I'm guessing because of the C.P.R. special feature of the MB), so i reset all the settings in my BIOS to default. It booted the OS and while it was working I checked to see if there was a new version of the BIOS. I had been running version 0801 and updated it to 0901. I tried setting all my settings back to the ones I had previously set on my last OC and it wouldn't post again. I decided to retry the OCing process. I have the clock mode set to linked and the ratio set to sync mode. I stepped it up from 1333 Mhz in 20 mhz increments. The highest I can get it to (stable as of a half-hour of prime 95 blends, testing longer now) is 1450 mhz. At 1475 mhz, 1.35 vcore, memory and NB voltages at auto, all auto memory timings (tried at 5-5-5-12 and 5-5-5-18 also), the computer freezes after 30 seconds of blend testing on orthos and prime 95. If I try stepping up the vcore to the next increment, It fails a prime 95 test after one minute with the message "FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4" and then freezes. I cant understand what the problem is. I didn't make any hardware changes, I reseated the DIMMs multiple times, and checked all the plugs. Does it seem pretty odd for my whole OC to go out the window over just taking the rig apart and putting it back together with minimal (no actual hardware) changes, or is it just me? Could it possibly be because of the BIOS version? Any help will be greatly appreciated (I just bought Assassin's Creed! I wanna play it soooo bad!). Thanks.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


Shroud
you may have better results overclocking your ram in the black slots as alot of people have found the yellow ones to be limited.


I sure hope that is true because I currently have my RAM in the yellow slots and can't even get them stable above 800MHz with 4-4-4-12-2T @ 2.1V.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *web-blade* 
Hi guy's, Ive been overclocking my board today. Ive set my FSB to 1337 because it would not post with 1333 no matter what voltage I used. 1337 strap worked straight away with Vcore set to 1.4v. I tested for 30mins with OCCT and passed. I then tested with prime95 for 6hrs and passed. But when I shut down and try restart it wont post. Is there anything I can finetune? I have bios v0608 and I have spread spectrum disabled. I have it set to unlinked. All other voltages are set to auto. I tried 1.42v but still noting. Ive moved to the next nbcc strap so Im on 1341 now with 1.4v. I havn't tried restarting yet as I wanted to ask you first if anything else can be fine tuned first.

Try to keep a 1:1 divider. Run 1333FSB:667RAM.


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta* 
I sure hope that is true because I currently have my RAM in the yellow slots and can't even get them stable above 800MHz with 4-4-4-12-2T @ 2.1V.

My corsair will not overclock at all, not even like 810 mhz with those tight timings. I tried the "stock" 5-5-5... with I think 825 for a 1:1 @ 3Ghz and that was a no POST as well. I never really tried anything after that as I can get stable at 3.35 with stock 800mhz and some weird but stable multiplier, I did get more bandwidth from lowering the Trd.


----------



## connorjt2

hi could you guy please help me with my ram problem i get bsod during shutdown 
but someone told me it was my ram but anyways 
i have gskill 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231098
thanks


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


My corsair will not overclock at all, not even like 810 mhz with those tight timings. I tried the "stock" 5-5-5... with I think 825 for a 1:1 @ 3Ghz and that was a no POST as well. I never really tried anything after that as I can get stable at 3.35 with stock 800mhz and some weird but stable multiplier, I did get more bandwidth from lowering the Trd.


I managed to fix my problem by moving the RAM to the black slots and upping the NB voltage to 1.39v. RAM is currently at 874MHz with 5-5-5-15-2T timings.


----------



## marsey99

^^thats about right for 1.4v to the nb i think i got to about that, if you want to keep going you might need to goto 1.56v on the nb but if your ram is willing that should get you to ddr1066 speeds.

@connnor

is it set to gskill spec in your bios for timings and volts? try setting your nb volts to 1.4v.


----------



## keith12

hi, have created boot cd, and attempted to flash bios. when i type in awdflash 0608.bin/f it does not go directly to the screen prints you have in the thread. instead it says the following:
"usage: AWDFLASH [filename1][Filename2]
Filename1: New Bios name for flash programming
Filename2: Bios file for backing up orininal bios

I then typed the following
awdflash filename1 and also awdflash filename2
both started another dos screen similar to the ones in your post, but both said
"source file not found" even though the 0608 bin is on the cd. i've confirmed it by doing a dir command on the drive.
any suggestions


----------



## bangsboomstik

I am having some trouble getting 3.4GHz to even boot. as you can see by my computer at the bottom, I have the Zalman CNPS9700 (used Arctic Silver 5 for thermal compound) with of course the P5N-E SLi mobo, and Corsair XMS2 2GB @ 800MHz with 4-4-4-12 timings. I am currently running 3.2GHz (400x8.0) with 1.33125v Vcore and i just have all other voltages on auto. my temps are very good with Core#0 at 21C and Core#1 at 20C (according to core temp and hardware monitor). whenever i try pushing the FSB above 400 i cannot get it stable ( i even tried 425x7.0 and 425x6.0 and the computer would not even boot). I tried a variety of Vcore voltages up to 1.5v and tried a variety of memory voltages up to 2.35v (i didn't change the NB voltages from Auto, Should I?) I have the stock heatsink on the NB and SB is bare. the weirdest thing is i could get 400x9.0 (3.6GHz) to boot up and even run Windows, but it was very unstabble, and i had Vcore at 1.4875v and memory voltage at 2.1v. does anyone have a similar setup up that they could get to 3.4GHz? or any suggestions?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I managed to fix my problem by moving the RAM to the black slots and upping the NB voltage to 1.39v. RAM is currently at 874MHz with 5-5-5-15-2T timings.


Noticed I forgot the .3 on my previous post, should have been 1:1 @ 3.3...

Anyway, what V do you have on your RAM? 2.08 or 2.17, I think I used the 2.08 to stay under the 2.1 max maybe I should bump to 2.17 and give it a try.


----------



## PietHein

Oef, maybe someone can help me fix an issue that I am having with my newly built computer, it keeps freezing! (locking up, no bsod. The screen freezes and nothing works anymore. Furthermore,

I believe that the problem is hardware related since it freezes during installation, dos, xp etc.

The components in the pc are:

PSU: 500W OCZ
Asus p5n-e sli with BIOS 0901 -> default settings
8200E Dual Core
GeiL DRR PC-6400 2x 2Gb
Club 3D 8600 GT passively cooled
Samsung SATA 250 Gb HDD 
Some DVD-burner

I have used Kingston memory, changed video cards, changed hdd, removed all connectors on the board I wasn't using, removed DVD, used Zalman PSU 500W.

I have tried the following solutions myself: apply new thermal paste on the cpu and since the NB was loose I put it back with fresh themal paste (not epoxy) as well.

Can the instability be caused by the memory settings on the MB? How do I check the temperature of the North and south bridge? (but for putting my fingers on them, I mean the NB seems warm, which I think is a rather good sign, and the SB is very cool)

Thanks for your help in advance!

Kind regards,

Tim


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *keith12*


hi, have created boot cd, and attempted to flash bios. when i type in awdflash 0608.bin/f it does not go directly to the screen prints you have in the thread. instead it says the following:
"usage: AWDFLASH [filename1][Filename2]
Filename1: New Bios name for flash programming
Filename2: Bios file for backing up orininal bios

I then typed the following
awdflash filename1 and also awdflash filename2
both started another dos screen similar to the ones in your post, but both said
"source file not found" even though the 0608 bin is on the cd. i've confirmed it by doing a dir command on the drive.
any suggestions


You've typed the command wrong chief. There is a space after 0608.bin and before /f.

awdflash 0608.bin /f


----------



## Kingflupps

Hi guys, I have recently completed my new build and everything went really well. I’m successfully over clocked to 2.7ghz and orthos/3dmark06 stable. The only problem I am having is that when I install my audigy 2 zs and accompanying drivers I get an spi error when windows boots and no audio. At the moment the realtek onboard audio is ok for my games but I need my audigy 2 zs for my music production. I currently have my Southbridge HR-05 SLI blocking one of the PCI slots so I am using the one nearest the back of the case. I disabled onboard sound but still the spi error. What is spi and is there anything I can do about this, as a last resort I can move the HR-05 sli round 90 degrees and use the other pci slot but that would involve taking the motherboard out which I really don’t want to do. Any ideas? By the way cheers for all the help over the last few weeks with my build and then the OC I really appreciate it. Cheers Dave.


----------



## dalmar72

hi everyone, I just finished replacing my e6420 (2.13Ghz @ 3.20Ghz) with a xeon e3110 (e8400). Stock for the e3110 is 3.00Ghz I have it at 3.87 Ghz, and it is stable for the most part. But to get it here I have the fsb at 430 Mhz. the e6420 was only at 400 mhz fsb, now My motherboard temperatures are hitting 50 degrees C. (using speed fan temp2) Cpu is fine 39-42. so I think it is probably the NB causing the issues, Ideally I would like to get this to 4Ghz. The Cpu fan is a sythe Ninja rev B, I currently have the stock NB cooler. Would the
Thermalright HR-05/IFX High Riser, or the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Copper fit with the sythe on there? or am I looking in the wrong spot. Does the motherboard temp relate to the NB? is the 50C really that bad?


----------



## hapooh

Hi, I'm new here and have a simple question regarding northbrigde heatsink....

When I removed the stock heatsink I see that there is a tiny foam pad glued onto it. It looks like it's used to protect the circuitry on the northbridge chip from touching the bottom of the heatsink. Also, only a small center section of the northbridge chip is touching the heatsink with a small dab of thermal paste.

So my question is, should I re-use this same foam pad when I purchase an after market heatsink, or does it really not matter if the entire heatsink directly touches the entire top of the northbridge chip. I don't want to short circuit the chip..

I am going to use the Thermaltake C0034 heatsink.

Thanks.


----------



## Perry

The foam pad doesn't actually make contact if I remember correctly so I wouldn't be too worried about that but if you're going to reseat the heatsink with AS5 be careful where you put it and how much you're using. I'm switching over to OCZ Freeze because it's non-conductive and has no curing time.

As for the contact area that's pretty much par for the course. The northbridge chip is just a tiny little thing and that's really all that needs to touch because that is where the heat is generated.


----------



## hapooh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Perry* 
The foam pad doesn't actually make contact if I remember correctly so I wouldn't be too worried about that but if you're going to reseat the heatsink with AS5 be careful where you put it and how much you're using. I'm switching over to OCZ Freeze because it's non-conductive and has no curing time.

As for the contact area that's pretty much par for the course. The northbridge chip is just a tiny little thing and that's really all that needs to touch because that is where the heat is generated.

Thanks for the info... I ordered the thermaltake, and it hasn't arrived yet, but I downloaded the manual and it comes with its own silicon pad. The instructions say that the pad it to keep the heatsink from crushing the northbridge chip, which as you pointed out is the "little" chip on the top of the chip base. Thanks.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottk*


Noticed I forgot the .3 on my previous post, should have been 1:1 @ 3.3...

Anyway, what V do you have on your RAM? 2.08 or 2.17, I think I used the 2.08 to stay under the 2.1 max maybe I should bump to 2.17 and give it a try.


I have the memory volts set to 2.178v. Any less i.e even 2.085v and there is a little bit of unstability over 800MHz.


----------



## marsey99

PietHein
thats a nice setup you have there









1st make sure the ram is set to 2t and geil spec (4-4-4-12? 2.1v?) in the bios.

then try setting your nb to 1.4v then 1.56v if that doesnt help.

if still no dice let us know.

dalmar
vnice m8







i cant get much more than 1750 fsb out of mine but i wish you all the best of luck. im sure yours, like mine, will give high mobo temps if your gpu is also warm and it drops when it does too? better cooling will help on the nb but im not sure if the reported temps will show this


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


then try setting your nb to 1.4v then 1.56v if that doesnt help.


Is there a new BIOS revision after 0608 that allows for small voltage increases? 0608 allows northbridge voltages of Auto, 1.208, 1.393 and 1.5...something.


----------



## MrQ

All the BIOS's are like that. This is not an enthusiast boards like the Maximus Formula or P5N-T so it doesn't include the smaller stepping voltages. There is a way to fix that I believe through a pencil mod. Sorry I don't have the link right now, but it is entirely possible.


----------



## Perry

Just curious because mine isn't volt modded and I'd assume that most others haven't done it to theirs either so the advice offered won't yield much help.


----------



## MrQ

When people refer to the voltages on the NB they tend to round the numbers out. Thus when he said 1.4 he meant 1.393 and 1.5 is 1.565 (I believe, need to write those #'s down)


----------



## marsey99

ty Q you are spot on, i did round the numbers.


----------



## Perry

Ahhh....I'm not a rounding kind of guy.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Hi All,

I posted a few times in here while I was using the P5N-E as a backup board when my P5W died. I have since rebuilt my main rig, but was impressed enough by the P5N to build it up into a nice little overclocker (see sig rig).

I was reading a few articles out there that say they "easily" pushed an E2160 to 3.4GHz on this board w/ only a slight voltage increase. I am in no such luck however. Most I can push out of it is 3.2GHz at 1423QDR. It will POST at 3.4GHz (1.4v), but BSOD's and restarts before making it into Windows.

I have tried incrementally increasing the voltage on the NB as high as 1.65, no such luck.

Not really sure what's holding me back. I don't think it's an issue with temps, as, I have fixed the cooling on the board by reseating the NB HS w/ AS5 (sparingly), and I adhered 4 ram sinks to the SB to help dissipate heat there. Also, The Tuniq 120 keeps the CPU chilly.

My only current thought is with that high an OC, it may just be too much w/ all 4 RAM slots filled (am I even on the right track here?)

I have a 2GB kit of Corsair XMS2 800MHZ 4-4-4-12 SLI memory on hand, and may take another run at it tonight using those.

I would really love to push this chip to the 3.4GHz-3.6GHz range. I Know the potential is there, just unsure if I just have a bunk chip or something (not that my current 1400MHz OC could be considered "bunk")

I am using BIOS 901, if that helps. I hear 608 is better, but am not familiar with flashing down to an older BIOS.

Any advice from the P5N Guru's would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## Kingflupps

Can anyone tell me which PCI slot/s are not shared on this motherboard please? I have looked at the irq table in the manual but dont understand what the relevance of the columns a through to g are. In line E none of the pci slots say shared but in A they both do. How do I read it and how do i tell which PCI slot is not shared so i can get my audigy 2 zs up and running without the flippin spi error. Cheers guys.


----------



## Perry

Xenon Xombie, there's no guarantee that your chip will overclock like others. There's never a guarantee that anything will have the same overclocking ability of anything else. Look at Lins with his E2180's. 4x1GB may be a bit too much strain on the northbridge. Try running only 2x1GB and see what happens.

Kingflupps, I believe IRQ 9, 10 and 11 can be assigned to your sound card. I'm not sure what the chart refers to either.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

True enough, Perry... maybe I am just getting greedy, lol.

I'll try it with the 2GB Corsair kit. I have a pair of Crucial Ballistix Tracers I can try as well. Maybe I can squeeze a little more out of it.

I just know that with my P5W DH Deluxe, there are several hoops one must jump through to successfully maintain a high OC, wasn't sure if there were any odd settings I should be mindful of that I may have missed.

Thanks for the reply!


----------



## Wobbley

Has anyone manged to get the FSB over 1199 (2.7ghz) for a Q6600 on the 0901 bios?


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


True enough, Perry... maybe I am just getting greedy, lol.

I'll try it with the 2GB Corsair kit. I have a pair of Crucial Ballistix Tracers I can try as well. Maybe I can squeeze a little more out of it.

I just know that with my P5W DH Deluxe, there are several hoops one must jump through to successfully maintain a high OC, wasn't sure if there were any odd settings I should be mindful of that I may have missed.

Thanks for the reply!


This board is an overclocker's board without really being an overclocker's board. Hence the odd voltage changes in the BIOS, lack of cooling on the southbridge or mosfets, etc.

I'd say get your CPU dialed in and then add the memory and see what happens. If your overclock becomes unstable then you have your explaination of what was holding you back in the first place.

To some of the other P5N-E users, would using the lowest voltage memory help with stability for Xenon Xombie?


----------



## C2H6O

So can someone update me on the reliability/performance of the 0901 bios version? It is throughly confusing that their newer versions are worse than the older ones.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

My corsair RAM need 2.1v to operate @ 800MHZ 4-4-4-12
My Crucial RAM need 2.2v to operate @ 800MHz 4-4-4-12 or 1000MHz 5-5-5-15
My OCZ RAM needs 2.2v to operate @ 800MHz 4-5-4-15

Maybe the lower voltage Corsair sticks will do the trick.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *C2H6O* 
So can someone update me on the reliability/performance of the 0901 bios version? It is throughly confusing that their newer versions are worse than the older ones.

Welcome to Asus boards, LOL. I have a couple of them, and they tend to get worse before they get better.

I am on the 901 BIOS now, and aside from not being able to clock upward past a QDR of 1423 w/ my E2160, it runs right as rain. Even my commplaint can't really be considered a true complaint.

I have no experioence with other BIOS's for this board, so I can't really comment on past revisions. I would be interested as well though, as I hear 608 is really the way to go.


----------



## C2H6O

Yeah, I'm on 608 right now. I slipstreamed SP1 unto Vista in a new install and it has been stalling out for the first few days. I have updated everything for the board, other than the BIOS. I didn't know if there was any conflicts, or if my OS was just "settling in" to my use.

I have my OC to 1500, so if it isn't broke...it prolly isn't worth the headache. But if there is a clear difference between the BIOS versions, I will upgrade. It would be nice to hear more about peoples experiences with 0901. Thanks for your input Xeon.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie* 
Welcome to Asus boards, LOL. I have a couple of them, and they tend to get worse before they get better.

I am on the 901 BIOS now, and aside from not being able to clock upward past a QDR of 1423 w/ my E2160, it runs right as rain. Even my commplaint can't really be considered a true complaint.

I have no experioence with other BIOS's for this board, so I can't really comment on past revisions. I would be interested as well though, as I hear 608 is really the way to go.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *C2H6O* 
so if it isn't broke

Truer words have never been spoken.


----------



## mcogan10

I think I still use 608, I've had this board for a hell of a long time...It's really nice







. 462 fsb on this thing easily, haven't had to push any harder...3.7G suicide run hahaha.


----------



## C2H6O

It has 105% of the power, 80% of the time


----------



## Perry

0608 has run rock solid for me. The only reason why I moved to it was because of the CPUID error that I received on startup with my Pentium D 805 on the previous version.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



I have my OC to 1500, so if it isn't broke...


Would like this in my sig. Do you mind C2H60?


----------



## marsey99

when you get those kind of gains you cant not be happy with it.

bios' from what i have found/seen on the early conroes and allendales 0404 is the best for clocking, 608 is the same for quad, now im testing 0901 on my wolfdale. the only thing is that on 404 and 503 there was some memory issues. and you may not be able to use them depending on cpu compatabilty.

my tip[s for this mobo.

it does not like too much voltage.
it does not like overclocking the ram in the yellow slots.
it needs better cooling on the nb and some on the power regs(gpu ram sinks work great) 
1:1 divider has the most stability.
use the +100 vcore offset and drop your set volts by 0.10v (so 1.35 is set to 1.25 with +100) to counter the vdroop.

@ the guy with lots of ram, use the corsair first then try the ballistix, 4 stix will strees the mem controller, if its still falling over on 2 stix try 1 in each channle (1 yellow 1 black) to lessen the stress even more. the corsair should run stock with only 1.2v to the nb, cru and ocz may need more, dont ask my why just is ask ocz or crucial.

this is a good non overclockers overclocking board but it also has its quirks, you will find what yours likes.


----------



## MrQ

Right on marsey.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Hey guys, I just pulled 1600MHz fsb on this thing!

I've been trying to OC my E2160 to 3.4GHz - just can't keep it stable, so I went about finding a sweet spot closer to 3.2GHz... I dropped the multi to 8, and upped the QDR to 1600 and it's running stable as can be (I hope). Vcore is set to 1.375 (maybe a little high), NB is set to auto, RAM is 2.1v 800MHz 4-4-4-12 2T.

Core Temp is reading 29-30c (I am more or less idle at the moment).

I did not do this with the RAM that's currently in my sig though - I am using 2x1GB Corsair XMS2 PC2-6400 C4.

That NB gets hotter than hell though! I even re-seated the passive cooler with AS5 yesterday. Hopefully after the break in period is over, it'll cool off a bit.

Well, now for stability testing!


----------



## ARDelta

Hello all. New guy here. I've read quit a bit of this thread, but no where near all of the 674 pages. Currently, I've got the following settings.

*FSB* 1653 MHz (BIOS), 1650 MHz (CPUZ)
*Multiplier* 9.0 (BIOS)
*CPU* 3713 MHz (CPUZ)
*VCore* 1.56250 V (BIOS), 1.350 (CPUZ)
*VMemory* Auto (BIOS)
*VCore offset* Auto (BIOS)
*Memory timings* Auto (BIOS), 5-5-5-31-23 (2T) (CPUZ)

I have a few questions and I'm sure there will be many more. So here goes. What is VCore offset? Why the discrepency between VCore setting in the BIOS and VCore reported by CPUZ? Is there any hope for overclocking my Mushkin RAM?

Thanks in advance for any insight that you can provide!


----------



## Betrivent

That is WAY TOO MUCH VOLTAGE!! The vCore offset basically gives it another .1 vCore. Say, I used to set my vCore at 1.4, I turn on offset and it becomes 1.5. Do not trust CPU-Z to tell you your voltage. Whatever voltage you have set in the bios is generally what you have.


----------



## ARDelta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Betrivent*


That is WAY TOO MUCH VOLTAGE!!


Yikes. Here's the back story. After failing to achieve stable Orthos test at FSB 1653, I decided it was time to bump up VCore. I had been using the Auto setting for VCore. When I took it off Auto, I had no idea what to setting to use other than the 1.3V reported by CPUZ. So I tried that and it was a no go - it would POST but BSOD before the Windows login screen.

I bumped up VCore a few notches to no avail, so I returned to the Auto setting. Then I remembered that Asus Probe II reported VCore, so I fired it up. It reported 1.55V with the Auto setting in BIOS, so I returned to the BIOS and set Vcore to 1.55625 V (one step above 1.55000V). That bombed on Orthos after ~20 minutes. So, I stepped up one more notch to 1.56250 which is where I am no now. BTW, Asus Probe fluctuates b/t 1.55V and 1.57V. Orthos ran for 1hr with no errors, then I stopped it so I could read and post here.

Now, I'm not sure what to do.


----------



## seanx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *seanx*


Hi guys been following this thread for a bit and read from page 600 or so,
just got this mboard 3 days ago, and can't seem to load vista32 successfully?
I loaded vista64 briefly but this too blue screened after 2 shut downs.
I haven't really tried any o'clockin just yet , simply trying to get a stable system .....I have moved mem volts to 2.03 or something, and set 
NB volts to one step from auto , vcore at 1,3v , mem timings at auto
5 5 5 31 (however with timings I have played around a lot hoping this would solve the problem but no, have tried 4 4 4 12 , 4 4 4 15 , 5 4 4 15 and more)
WinXP installs fine btw , except onboard network seems faulty ? can't see
any1 on my local network, have installed a pci one for now.
Stock bios was 0703 I think , so I also tried 0901 but no change just yet?

I will try downgrade the bios to 0608 sometime and see if that makes any change.....

Help ?!!!

I have OCZ platinum 2 800mhz ( 4 x 1 gig) and hynix 667mhz ( 2 x 1 gig)
2180 chip , BFG 9600GT , stock cooler for now.



Have downgraded bios to 0608 but still no joy ...help anyone ?
Next I will try an ide drive (currently using 2 x 500gig sata)


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


it does not like overclocking the ram in the yellow slots.


DDR2-800 running at DDR2-1000 in the yellow slots and up to DDR2-1100 but not stable. I'd say the yellow slots work just fine but of course each board is different.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ARDelta*


Yikes. Here's the back story. After failing to achieve stable Orthos test at FSB 1653, I decided it was time to bump up VCore. I had been using the Auto setting for VCore. When I took it off Auto, I had no idea what to setting to use other than the 1.3V reported by CPUZ. So I tried that and it was a no go - it would POST but BSOD before the Windows login screen.

I bumped up VCore a few notches to no avail, so I returned to the Auto setting. Then I remembered that Asus Probe II reported VCore, so I fired it up. It reported 1.55V with the Auto setting in BIOS, so I returned to the BIOS and set Vcore to 1.55625 V (one step above 1.55000V). That bombed on Orthos after ~20 minutes. So, I stepped up one more notch to 1.56250 which is where I am no now. BTW, Asus Probe fluctuates b/t 1.55V and 1.57V. Orthos ran for 1hr with no errors, then I stopped it so I could read and post here.

Now, I'm not sure what to do.


That sounds like WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much voltage for stock cooling. Grab an aftermarket heatsink or you may be doing some damage if those temperatures get out of hand.


----------



## ARDelta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


That sounds like WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much voltage for stock cooling. Grab an aftermarket heatsink or you may be doing some damage if those temperatures get out of hand.


I've monitored temps with Asus Probe II during all stress tests and my CPU temp has not exceeded 64C. Which brings me to the question - how hot is too hot or what temp range should I shoot for? I'm a little puzzled why it seems that I need such high voltage to achieve a relatively small (~24%) overclock. Another thing that puzzles me is that I see very few people overclocking the C2D E6850. Perhaps I made a bad choice.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


That sounds like WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much voltage for stock cooling. Grab an aftermarket heatsink or you may be doing some damage if those temperatures get out of hand.


That's not too much voltage for this chip. The E6850 is already one of the fastest stock chips available. It runs at approx. 1.35v stock. In order to get it to the 3.7 - 3.8GHz range, you'll have to pump about 1.5 into it. The trick is COOLING. You have to have a good cooler, and make sure you have some good airflow on your mosfet/ voltage regulator - check out the Antec Spot-Cool. It may help if things get to warm. Without phase cooling, don't expect 4GHz.

Here's an article that compares the Q6600 to the E6850. I think it will help answer both your question about the voltage, as well as your questions about overclocking this chip:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu...uad-q6600.html

It was a good choice you made, but you can't expect the same kind of OC percentage as some of the lower clocked chips. You simply don't have the headroom, because it's already so fast. At most, you'd be looking at 30% with the right cooling.

Also - I forgot to mention that there is no need for you to OC your RAM to any new heights. If you run it at DDR 800, and just tighten the timings, the performance will be same/ similar to DDR2 1000 with loose timings.

Food for thought.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Also - Please note that this board, the Asus P5N-E SLI is crap for overclocking quads, so that article that pertains to a P35 chipset is only somewhat relevant here.

If you can get 3.7/3.8GHz off your E6850, and lock it in stable, I would sit on it until your next upgrade. You won't get more speed out of a Core series chip unless you go Phase, or get a 45nm Wolfdale. Especially on this board.

I hear Intel is finally changing their socket too, so we may see a whole new platform rising up in the next few months.


----------



## marsey99

@perry 
mine is an old board and if yours is too the yellow slots are not as good, i am glad to see that this is not the case for you and i hope they fixxed it for later boards, but if you use the yellow slots and are unable to get much higher than ddr800 the black slots should let you get upto around 1000.

@delta
you should try get your vcore as low as pos. use the vcore offset @ +100 and drop your 1.5v to 1.4v. then try dropping it lower than 1.4v in steps to find the lowest you can keep stable with orthos, prime occt or which ever you use.

@all
cpuz now reads vid not current vcore. if you want to see you vdroop you will need to use speedfan, hwmonitor or everest and the like.


----------



## Tobysauce77

I have a q6600 and this motherboard...I use the AI overclocking b/c i dont know exactly where to start to try to overclock this...with the AI overclocking I can only do 15% overclock so it runs at about 2.7ghz. If I try to overclock at 20% to get it to 2.8ghz, it will freeze after a while. My q6600 is water cooled. No extra cooling added to the mobo. Any suggestions as to how I can get over 2.7ghz with this cpu?


----------



## MrQ

Check the guide in my sig and follow the instructions PRECISELY!! Remember to Rep+ diddler if it helps you out.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I have 2 rigs, and am sort of trying to find the best way to sort them into 1 high performance and 1 back up box.

The P5N-E started out as my backup box, but I am really loving this board! I picked up a pair of 8800GTS's, an E2160, and dropped in some fancy Crucial ram, and the thing absolutely flies. (see sig rig)

What has been my main rig for a while now, is an Asus P5w DH Deluxe/ Xeon X3220 Quad/ 4GB OCZ RAM/ dual X1950Pro's.

Now, I can pull 3.4GHz stable on the P5W w/ my RAM @ ddr2 800. But I am limited by the radeon cards when gaming.

The P5N flies, but I am limited by the 2 cores of the E2160 (I actually use a Quad, I don't just show it off).

Now my question is: If I can get my quad to run @ 3.0GHz on the P5N, will I see a noticable performance increase compaired to the E2160 @ 3.2GHz?

Obviously encoding and such will be faster, but what about games?

I mainly play Prey, Fear, Bioshock, N4S, etc. (@1920 by 1200 res.)

Would I be better off leaving them as is? The Quad is fast at 3.4GHz, but I feel like I could be putting it to better use if I just retired my old 975X board, and stuck with the P5N, even if I was only running at 3.0GHz...

Opinions???

Dunno if you're all able to view my other rig, but I have the specs up in my system profiles.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


That's not too much voltage for this chip. The E6850 is already one of the fastest stock chips available. It runs at approx. 1.35v stock. In order to get it to the 3.7 - 3.8GHz range, you'll have to pump about 1.5 into it. The trick is COOLING. You have to have a good cooler, and make sure you have some good airflow on your mosfet/ voltage regulator - check out the Antec Spot-Cool. It may help if things get to warm. Without phase cooling, don't expect 4GHz.


Based on their sig rig they're running stock.

Not good as far as I'm concerned.


----------



## marsey99

zeon the games you play wont make use of the extra cores so i think for them the clock speed of the 2160 is winning. i think the quad would win in sythetic benchmarks and apps that can load all 4 cores but how many of them are about and do you use them?

quad would be better in the long run tho i think.


----------



## ARDelta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Based on their sig rig they're running stock.

Not good as far as I'm concerned.


Are you refering to my sig and my CPU cooling? If so, you are correct, I am running Intel's stock HS/fan cooling. I've just begun overclocking and I know I need to upgrade. My first decision is... water or air?









@marsey: Thanks for the tips. BTW, you said that CPUZ now measures vid not vcore. What is vid?


----------



## Xeon Zombie

ARDelta said:


> I am running Intel's stock HS/fan cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Stock HSF = no darn good. Then Perry's right, 1.5 is WAY to high.
> 
> Liquid or Air is a tough call. In the end, for me, high quality air cooling is the way to go. Not as much maintenance needed, and you don't ever have to worry about leaks, etc.
> 
> I am biased though, as I have never set up a liquid cooled rig myself. I have, however, built some pretty amazing rigs for clients and have had no issue pushing a G0 quad to 3.6GHz on air alone (with the right cooler/ case fans)
> 
> If you ended up going 45nm, you could easily breach 4.0GHz on air.
> 
> Foa air cooling, I recomend Scythe S-Flex case fans, and either the Thermalright 120 Extreme, or a Tuniq Tower 120. Both are excellent at what they do. The Zalman's are very nice as well, but for A Quad Core, I would recommend the 9700. If you can find them though, the first two I mentioned are, arguably, the best air coolers around.
> 
> As a side question - does anyone know of anyone who HAS gotten higher than 3.0GHz with a Q6600/ X3220 on this board??
Click to expand...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


zeon the games you play wont make use of the extra cores so i think for them the clock speed of the 2160 is winning. i think the quad would win in sythetic benchmarks and apps that can load all 4 cores but how many of them are about and do you use them?

quad would be better in the long run tho i think.


Thanks Marsey! Yeah, I know the games I play are not really going to take advantage of 4 cores, but I was wondering if the 8MB cache v. the 1MB cache would prove to be a boost?

I read somewhere that an E2160 @ 3.2/3.4GHz is approx. comparible to an E6700 @ stock. By that Logic, My Quad at 3.0GHz should knock the snot out of the E2160.

I guess I'll have to bench them both, and see which wins. Such a pain in the ass though.

Ideally, I'd like to push the Quad closer to 3.6-4.0GHz, but I'll need a new Mobo for that. Maybe a 780i or an X38/48. No $$ for that now though.


----------



## marsey99

i know the feeling man, i need a board that can get me around 500fsb and this cant get close for me.

shame tho, its a great gaming platform and i guess that was its point not clocking.

but you would only really be using half of the cache as it only loads half the cores. for me the cache seems to give varying amounts of extra performance but from 2mb to 6mb is from nothing to about 800mhz. in realworld gaming its about the same, under superpi its about 800mhz, 3dmark06 about 200mhz.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


in realworld gaming its about the same.


Meh, If it's more or less the same, in terms of gaming, then I will probably just swap the two and drop the quad in this box. I could use the extra cores when not gaming, so it makes better sense to me then keeping both rigs running all the time, just so I can play a little Bioshock while I am running data for work.

Could be doing both at once on the same machine, lol.

I have been in a compulsive computer building/ rebuilding state lately. I think I've stripped down and rebuilt both boxes probably 3 times in the last week! Thank God for laptops! Otherwise I'd have been screwed a couple times with both rigs down.

Also, it dawned on me that with dual 320MB 8800GTS's and fast RAM, a 200MHz difference on my CPU won't make any difference in terms of the games I play. Maybe something like Crysis, but I don't play that.

One thing that is concerning me about the P5N-E though, is that darn NB. I could literally fry an egg on that thing. The heatsink gets so hot it will burn my hand to touch it. I know this is supposed to get hot, but is this normal? I recently reseated it with AS5, thinking the temps would drop, but no such luck.

Would an HR-05 really lower the temps as much as they say? I would probably have to install it fanless, as I have dual VGA cards and a Tuniq 120.


----------



## MrQ

Xeon Zombie said:


> ARDelta said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am running Intel's stock HS/fan cooling.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Stock HSF = no darn good.
> 
> 
> I disagree with that partially...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left Wolfdale HSF, Right Kentsfield HSF
> 
> The one on the right is the one I overclocked my Quad to 3ghz on. Granted it wasn't with AS5 but it did a fine job.
> 
> The one on the left is the one I pulled off a customer's Wolfdale for replacement with an aftermarket HSF. That thing was awful.
> 
> Notice the difference in bases and in size. Older is not always worse...
Click to expand...


----------



## ARDelta

My stock HSF is like the bigger one on the right in the picture. In the end, isn't it the temperatures you generate not the vcore voltage you apply that detemines if your cooling is adeqaute? As I said previously, my CPU temp is running ~63C under Orthos stress test with vcore set to 1.56250.


----------



## Silver_WRX02

I just downgrade my bios from 0901 to 0608. Now I'm can overclock my Q6700 on this board. I try to run 1600FSB with x8 multiplier, but it didn't work. Now I'm running 1333 x10. I wonder how high can the FSB go with Quad core. I lower my ram speed to 333 (667) to make cpu/ram 1:1. Is 1:1 1333FSB RAM 667MHz better than 1333FSB and RAM 800MHz. I also did a 3DMark06 benchmark with the new setting. Is this score kinda low for this overclock? I also have problem with my mouse after downgrading the bios to 0608. When I restart my comp, it freeze at the bios post. I have to unplug the mouse, so it can boot into windows. Is there my way to solve this problem? I'm using Cyber Snipa Stinger mouse.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ARDelta* 
My stock HSF is like the bigger one on the right in the picture. In the end, isn't it the temperatures you generate not the vcore voltage you apply that detemines if your cooling is adeqaute? As I said previously, my CPU temp is running ~63C under Orthos stress test with vcore set to 1.56250.

Yes to the first part about temps showing if your cooling is adequate. No to the second that *just* temps are the end of the problem. Sustained high voltages can damage a processor just as much high temps. Its like running a 3/4" pipe through a 1/2" garden hose repeatedly. That hose heats up and over time that hose is going to wear out faster than if a 1/2" sized pipe was run through it. Its a rather crude example, but the effect is the same.

Your temps are way too high and SHOULD be brought down by dropping that vcore. I recommend you do it sooner rather than later.


----------



## ARDelta

Thanks for the reply MrQ. Your response gets to the heart of one of my basic questions of overclocking. If you're running at maximum stable overclock, and your using the minimum voltages to support the OC, and your temps are acceptable then are you seriously shortening the lifespan of your hardware? I suppose its impossible to say for sure and it probably depends on the specific hardware you have.

However, I see it's definitely time to invest in quality cooling. I don't think I'm ready to invest in a liquid cooling system so I'll be sticking with air. Xeon Zombie had some recommendations a few posts up so I'll start looking at those.

Thanks to everyone for your insight!


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ARDelta* 
Xeon Zombie had some recommendations a few posts up so I'll start looking at those.

Glad my ramblings may have helped!


----------



## MrQ

All overclocking no matter how minimal decreases the lifespan of the CPU. Its a fact and a rather tough one to deal with if you burn the processor out faster than you can replace it. The essential ideal behind overclocking is to make your current hardware speeds comparable to future hardware speeds without incurring the extra cost of upgrading every year. If you are doing it for fun, no need to max the OC out. You probably won't need the extra speed anyway.

The way to make a overclock feasible is to maintain it with the least amount of stress on the CPU by

1. Reducing the core vid to the lowest levels to maintain your OC.
2. Not pushing your CPU to the limit and leaving it there constantly unless you need it day in and day out.
3. Wicking that heat as fast and efficiently as possible away from the CPU.

Otherwise your toaster oven of a CPU that you managed to get to 4ghz will wind up in your scrap bin for OC demonstration purposes.

My 2 cents on overclocking.


----------



## -iceblade^

Hey guys







.

i was thinking of perhaps getting this board as a replacement to my Neo2-FR. Wuould it be a good idea? I plan to SLI later on... How does she OC? and also, is my ram compatible? http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...d=8&subcat=813

ta for the help







.

gosh, i love this forum...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*


I plan to SLI later on... How does she OC? and also, is my ram compatible?


Hi Iceblade!

As for overclocking, I was just working on OC'ing an E2160 on this board earlier this week.

My final max OC settings were:

3.2GHz @ 8x400 (dropped the multi)
DDR2 1000 @ 5-5-5-15 2.1v (Ballistix Tracer)
NB 1.55v
All Q-Fan/ Speedstep options disabled.
Dual Nvidia 8800GTS's (320MB versions) @ 627/907

Temps were overall very good. The NB, however, gets hotter than then Jessica Simpson in a bikini. I reseated my stock heatsink with AS5, but temps are still high. I hear the HR-05 SLI will fit this, and will probably be ordering one this week. Also - buy some cheap aluminium or copper RAM sinks, and adhere them to your SB. I did that, and now my SB is cool as a cucumber.

I was getting 3Dmark scores of 13k +

Not a bad little rig!

To be honest, If I were builing a brand new SLI rig, I would save a little more cash, and splurge on a 780i board. You'll get better OC results with higher end chips than you will with this P5N-E. Also, being PCIe 2.0/ and fully compatible with 45nm process, it's a bit more "futureproof" if there ever was such a thing, lol.

As for the memory, I have always admired the looks of that RAM, but cannot speak to its compatibility with this board. I have, however, successfully used Crucial Ballistix, Kingston Hyper X, Corsair XMS2, and OCZ Platinum memory with this board. All brands ran very very well at stock. The only differences came in overclocking, where the Ballistix won out hands down, as I can run them @ 1000MHz w/ 5-5-5-15 timings, and still maintain a stable OC.

I hope this helps a little. By the way, I think I have the same PSU as you - the Hiper R-Series Modular?

Great PSU - good choice!


----------



## -iceblade^

well, what are the chances







.

i'm not getting a new system - just a new board. I think there's an issue with two of the RAM slots so i can't use em...

I was thinking of doing SLI, and this board is just about what i can afford in terms of a board swap. Considering the venerable GIGABYTE P35 DS3L as well...

Have you had or heard of problems with the Hiper and it's ability to go POP at any moment?


----------



## yousef

Hi,

I need some help with memory.

i'm planning to replace my cheap DDR2-667 Corsair Value Select (2x4) memory
i am a heavey gfx designer/occasionally gamer and i need the BEST and the FASTEST 8GB (2x4) memory in the market, working with larg files in photoshop is driving me crazy.

Motherboard: P5N-E *BIOS Revision 0901*
NB Cooling: Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II
SB Cooling: Zalman ZM-NBF47
CPU: QuadCore Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2400 MHz
Video Adapter: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT (512 MB) *XFX Alpha Dog Edition*
Power: 800W or 850W !!
Case: Gigabyte 3DAURORA 570
OS: Vista Ultimate x64

Yes, i used search this thread to search for this issue and got few similar questions but no satisfying answer. please experts I need your help..

Thank you


----------



## marsey99

my ocz works fine upto ddr1000 in this board but i only have 2 sticks, not sure if i have seen anyone run 8gb in it tho.

edit

@iceblade
no but if you do get one of these you will need to cut a small section of the fan mount off your f7p.

where in the uk? u wanna swap mobos?


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yousef*


Hi,

I need some help with memory.

i'm planning to replace my cheap DDR2-667 Corsair Value Select (2x4) memory
i am a heavey gfx designer/occasionally gamer and i need the BEST and the FASTEST 8GB (2x4) memory in the market, working with larg files in photoshop is driving me crazy.


If you have a 2x4GB kit running on this board, congrats. AFAIK, this board is garbage for 8GB RAM.

Stick with Corsair, for what you're looking for, they'll probably have the better options in terms of performance.

Also - what timings are your 667MHz sticks running at? Honestly, there is little performance difference between 667MHz w/ tight timings and 800MHz with looser timings.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*


Considering the venerable GIGABYTE P35 DS3L as well...

Have you had or heard of problems with the Hiper and it's ability to go POP at any moment?


The GA-P35-DS3L is, sorry to say guys, a FAR superior board to the P5N-E. I have used it myself, and it is a much better overclocker, it is more stable, and is better constructed (all solid caps, and a hell of a voltage regulator)

I loved that board almost as much as my girlfriend.

- As for the Hiper PSU's, I had not heard that about the R-Series. They were pretty new when I bought mine, so maybe people have been having issues, but mine is rock stable. Better stay that way too. I'd hate to have to buy a new one anytime soon.

P.S. - What's wrong with your MSI board? I am looking at it online now, and it looks like a darn good board.


----------



## -iceblade^

she doesn't seem to want to accept ram in the two orange slots... Ram + any of those slots = no POST. otherwise, it's not a bad board...


----------



## Xeon Zombie

If I am looking at the right Mobo, (MSI P35 Neo2-FR), then you should keep that board, and change out your graphics. That MSI board can do Crossfire w/ ATI cards, and frankly the gap between ATI and Nvidia is not large enough to throw them out of the game.

I would ditch the 8800GT, and get a pair of 3870's.

- Could you RMA it, citing the Ram slots as the issue? The P35 is a better overclocking chipset than the 650i hands down. You'd be taking a step back, if only a little one.

- My 2 cents.


----------



## -iceblade^

i just stupidly transferred from a 3870 to this card, thinking i'd get better performance. I didn't.

I sent off an RMA request today - i'll see what they say.


----------



## yousef

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie*


If you have a 2x4GB kit running on this board, congrats. AFAIK, this board is garbage for 8GB RAM.

Stick with Corsair, for what you're looking for, they'll probably have the better options in terms of performance.

Also - what timings are your 667MHz sticks running at? Honestly, there is little performance difference between 667MHz w/ tight timings and 800MHz with looser timings.


thank you..lucky me









for regular use i set the timing to auto (5-5-5-31)
for performance i use (5-4-4-14) which increases the NB temperature
so u think i should stick with my current memory..?


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*


i just stupidly transferred from a 3870 to this card, thinking i'd get better performance. I didn't.

I sent off an RMA request today - i'll see what they say.


You might want to check another part of the forums with answers for your board. As much as MSI is a cool board maker we try and maintain this thread for ASUS P5N-E SLI questions only. It makes it easier on the people perusing through here to find answers.

Just a thought


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yousef* 
thank you..lucky me









for regular use i set the timing to auto (5-5-5-31)
for performance i use (5-4-4-14) which increases the NB temperature
so u think i should stick with my current memory..?

Your memory will be fine.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

I agree w/ Mr. Q... If you haven't already, improve your NB cooling, and you should be fine to tighten that ram up.

Also, if you are seeing performance hits, you may want to take a look at your OC. I know that when I pushed this board to 9x356 (w/ an E2160) it ran very well, but I was getting lower framerates than I expected in games, and felt some lag in other software as well. By all indications I was stable as a rock though. When I switched it to 8x400, suddenly I could run my ram faster and tighter, and the whole system seemed to "come alive" a bit more. Benches improved, and fps went way up.

Maybe you are stable, but not quita at that "sweet spot"

I may be way off base, but it's a thought.


----------



## xAn

What are the limits of the FSB on this board. Can you get around 500?


----------



## marsey99

i cant but mine is over a year old now and things have gotten better with them over time it seems.


----------



## ARDelta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeon Zombie* 
Foa air cooling, I recomend Scythe S-Flex case fans, and either the Thermalright 120 Extreme, or a Tuniq Tower 120.

I went with the Tuniq Tower 120 - got the version with the blue LED to match my other fans. I read some good reviews of the Thermalright 120 Extreme, but couldn't find it availble at my usual shopping places.

I've backed off my vcore to 1.47500 and have the FSB at 1633 MHz which puts my E6850 at 3.675 GHz (multiplier = 9). Once I get the cooler installed I'll get back to tweaking.


----------



## seanx

Hi guys ,

Well I managed to load Vista with the following settings

FSB = 1120 > 2.8Ghz
vcore = 1.325
mem vt = 2.178
NB vt = auto
mem timings = unlinked,800mhz,5 5 5 18 ,2T, TRFC = 54
Bios = 0608

Still doesn't seem 100% stable , using sp2004 stress test, large fft work
in the beginning, then after some cpu work (burning dvd etc..) then
the large fft fail on one core after 3 secs ? 
Any ideas ?

Btw anyone else with a E2180 and wot are ur o'clocks ?


----------



## marsey99

could be cpu cooling, after warming up thats why it fails. could also be the power regs getting warmed up and your vdroop increase so that needs more power.

what are you cpu/core temps like?


----------



## devondan

Hi All,

Please accept my apologies if this has been answered countless times already. But there is a hell of a lot of info in this thread and finding specifics is not easy.

At the moment I have a stock Intel cooler on an Q6600. That was fine but I am now running some pretty heavy calculations and both the CPU and motherboard are getting hot. In fact the board often gets slightly hotter than the CPU (which I found strange). So I would really like to upgrade both coolers.

Can someone recommend a CPU/North bridge cooler combination that will fit the P5N-E board?

Thanks in advance


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *devondan*


Can someone recommend a CPU/North bridge cooler combination that will fit the P5N-E board?

Thanks in advance


For the northbridge you can get the Thermalright HR-05 SLI heatsink and for the CPU you could get a TRUE 120, Tuniq Tower or Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro.


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *devondan* 

Can someone recommend a CPU/North bridge cooler combination that will fit the P5N-E board?

No offense man, but this question has been answered just in the last few pages of this thread. Did you even attempt to look?

Not to mention that it's also answered on the very first page!

Sheesh!


----------



## marsey99

and nearly every system spec in here.


----------



## Asce

Even worse there are some listed on the very first page.


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Silver_WRX02*


I just downgrade my bios from 0901 to 0608. Now I'm can overclock my Q6700 on this board. I try to run 1600FSB with x8 multiplier, but it didn't work. Now I'm running 1333 x10. I wonder how high can the FSB go with Quad core. I lower my ram speed to 333 (667) to make cpu/ram 1:1. Is 1:1 1333FSB RAM 667MHz better than 1333FSB and RAM 800MHz. I also did a 3DMark06 benchmark with the new setting. Is this score kinda low for this overclock? I also have problem with my mouse after downgrading the bios to 0608. When I restart my comp, it freeze at the bios post. I have to unplug the mouse, so it can boot into windows. Is there my way to solve this problem? I'm using Cyber Snipa Stinger mouse.


Dude, thats an impressive oc. What are your settings for voltages etc if you don't mind me asking.


----------



## raven117

Hey guys, im looking to get my cpu to around 3.4 or 3.5 ghz. its at 3.2 at the moment but if i try to go over 400fsb it has trouble go into windows. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Im just looking for voltages i should be using ill include a screen shot full of info hopefully enough to get the job done. Thanks


----------



## raven117

i just got it into windows at 3.28 bu thats about as far as i can go. =(


----------



## scottk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raven117* 
i just got it into windows at 3.28 bu thats about as far as i can go. =(

I have a stable BIOS setup saved on an E6750 for 3.35 but I don't run there daily - fan noise is too high (Qfan enabled) and volts are getting more than I want to push every day.

Mine was VCore 1.475, Mem 2.178 (use your mem spec, mine is 2.1), NB 1.56 (I have an old P3 CPU fan attached to NB HS, it's HOT without it), VCore offset Auto. FSB is 1675 mem set to 800 for an actual of 785.


----------



## marsey99

scott i think you just hit the nail on the head, i can only get high fsb out of mine due to the heatsinks and fans on my mobo.

raven thats alot of vcore for only 3.3ghz, i know the 6750 does need abit more but still i cant belive you need much more than 1.45v to hold 3.3ghz.

also with 4 stickx of ram you will be putting more stress on the nb, try it with 2 sticks and see if you can get higher. what volt do you have to your nb?


----------



## Xeon Zombie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


scott i think you just hit the nail on the head, i can only get high fsb out of mine due to the heatsinks and fans on my mobo.

raven thats alot of vcore for only 3.3ghz, i know the 6750 does need abit more but still i cant belive you need much more than 1.45v to hold 3.3ghz.

also with 4 stickx of ram you will be putting more stress on the nb, try it with 2 sticks and see if you can get higher. what volt do you have to your nb?


I agree with all of this...

Step 1 - Cool that puppy down!

Step 2 - Back off on the volts.

Step 3 - Go 2x1GB for this board. 4x1GB will kill your OC, and make that NB hotter than the lunch menu at the bunny ranch. 4GB worked excellent @ stock (for me) but not at any level of OC.


----------



## ARDelta

So, the consensus is you can achieve better OC with 2 sticks of RAM instead of 4? Would 1 stick be even better?


----------



## scottk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ARDelta*


So, the consensus is you can achieve better OC with 2 sticks of RAM instead of 4? Would 1 stick be even better?


You might be able to push your overclock a bit more but you'd lose way more than that in total performance by not running dual channel memory config.


----------



## marsey99

people having to drop their clock speed due to the 4x1gb sticks is the reason i have 2x1gb dominators with hand picked d9 chips in a box upstairs. i got 2x2gb ocz stix to replace them and i know the ic on these are not as good as those but i needed the extra ram.


----------



## dalmar72

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
people having to drop their clock speed due to the 4x1gb sticks is the reason i have 2x1gb dominators with hand picked d9 chips in a box upstairs. i got 2x2gb ocz stix to replace them and i know the ic on these are not as good as those but i needed the extra ram.


I'm running 4X1GB OCZ and my system is stable at 430 FSB unlinked of course.
motheboard tems hit about 47 degrees. I haven't had much time to seen how much further I can push it, but I don't think that it is the 4 sticks that will be holding me back.


----------



## Kingflupps

My first build went awesome and I have my rig overclocked to 2.7ghx stable (3x consecutive 3dmarko6 tests and loads of orthos) however I've noticed a really weird thing. Sometimes when I restart windows, not shut down and then turn back on, both the power light and the hard disk light will stay on permanently all the fans will run at max and the screen just goes black. This only happens sometimes on reboot which I hardly ever do so Im not that bothered - is this a big problem or not? Anyone know a solution? Cheers


----------



## Baked

Help me upgrade to 8gb of RAM! Does anyone know of any compatible 2gb modules that run at 1066mhz for this board?

Thanks for your time,
Baked


----------



## raven117

@ anyone who posted about my ram....its 2x2gb. Im backing off on the volts as we speak.


----------



## Perry

Does anybody know if the BIOS and Asus Probe II measure the tcase max or is it picking up CPU temperature from some where foolish like around, in or under the CPU socket? I'm fed up with my high temperatures as reported by Core Temp and figure if I keep it under the tcase max that is shown in all processor specs on Intel.com then I'm fine either way.


----------



## marsey99

use speed fan and check the chip it reads each temp off, then you should have a better idea. top of my head i think its a socket tho.

well guys i was right, my p5n was holding me back as its fsb was maxxed out @450/1800 whichever you prefare. got my new one today and threw it together, had a couple of hours playing tonight and well a picture can say a thousand words, so heres 2.












i think theres still more init but my ram might be holding me back.


----------



## LTSMASH

Okay, so what you guys are saying is that 2x2gb is going to be a much better OC than 4x1gb modules. I'm currently running 4-4-4-12 4x1gb Corsair DDR2800

My peak OC was at 3.2 and it was pretty sweet(ran 3dmark06, saved results, crashed). I want to start overclocking now and find a stable point to rest at. Running at stock is getting boring for me.

I'm getting a brand new p5n-e sli board from asus next week cause the current one is dying in my hands.

Out of curiosity, I'm running a Big Typhoon VX heatsink in a nicely organized Antec P182 case and I was wondering if my temps were okay:
1.2v
Stock speed (2.4)
Core0: 56 Load
Core1: 54 Load
Core2: 49 Load
Core3: 52 Load
They idle in the mid 30's to the low 40's depending on the day and time of day.
My case is also rather warm because I have two 8800GTS 512's.

Thanks for all the help!


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LTSMASH* 
Okay, so what you guys are saying is that 2x2gb is going to be a much better OC than 4x1gb modules. I'm currently running 4-4-4-12 4x1gb Corsair DDR2800

My peak OC was at 3.2 and it was pretty sweet(ran 3dmark06, saved results, crashed). I want to start overclocking now and find a stable point to rest at. Running at stock is getting boring for me.

I'm getting a brand new p5n-e sli board from asus next week cause the current one is dying in my hands.

Out of curiosity, I'm running a Big Typhoon VX heatsink in a nicely organized Antec P182 case and I was wondering if my temps were okay:
1.2v
Stock speed (2.4)
Core0: 56 Load
Core1: 54 Load
Core2: 49 Load
Core3: 52 Load
They idle in the mid 30's to the low 40's depending on the day and time of day.
My case is also rather warm because I have two 8800GTS 512's.

Thanks for all the help!

56c Load @ 1.2v, What are your ambients? my Ultra-x could keep my e6700 at around 56c with 1.5vcore. so no i do not think your temps are ok if your only pushing 1.2v


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
use speed fan and check the chip it reads each temp off, then you should have a better idea. top of my head i think its a socket tho.

I believe it's somewhere in the socket as well. My temperatures increased about 10 degrees while my CPU temperature in Asus Probe only rose 3 degrees. Shouldn't it be more?


----------



## yodacats

I have a question about vdroop pencil mod. Will it cure over volting as well as vdroop? I have my vcore set to 1.4375 in bios and everest shows 1.456 @ idle. Under orthos it drops as low as 1.376. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## marsey99

no the bios will still over volt but you can lower what you set it at in the bios, word of warning tho the pencil mod does wear off and as it does the vdroop returns.


----------



## Mike431635

I'm running this mobo and have noticed some really high (up to 45 C). The northbridge heatsink is very warm to the touch, and the southbridge actually burned my finger. I'm using a Cooler Master RR-LCH-P9E1 92mm UFO CPU cooler, and my CPU idles around 29-32 C with the thermal pad provided by CM.

I'm experiencing a problem where the computer will lock up if left idle for ~20 minutes, and require a hard restart. If I run Prime95, I can leave the computer running for as long as I want, come back, turn it off, and go about my business. I'm curious to know if anyone else has experienced this, and if it is related to the stock cooling (or LACK of cooling) on the NB & SB? If not, where else should I check? Could it be a bad CPU?


----------



## marsey99

mike fill in your system specs so we know what else your running, it will help us help you.

from what your saying to me i think you may need more case fans/ventilation, but like i said thats a guess.

my sb never got more than warm to the touch but i still puts a small heatsink on it and the nb really does need a fan as they do get warm but it shouldnt be locking up at only 40c they are reported to be fine well into the 50c range.


----------



## Mike431635

Sorry here's more info on the system:

CPU: Intel Core2 Duo E6420, 2.13GHz (no overclock)
Motherboard: ASUS P5N-E SLI
Ram Speed, size and #sticks: Corsair DDR2 667MHz, 2x 1GB DIMMs
GPU: nVidia 8800GTS 320mb
PSU: Antec Smartpower 500W; 36A between 2 +12V rails
OS: Windows XP Pro SP2 (fully updated)
Case: Thermaltake SViking
Case fans: 1x 120mm front intake (bottom of case), 1x 120mm rear exhaust (top of case) -- also, I'm running it with the side of the case off since with it on my mobo temps were hitting 48-50 C and making a warning go off in PC Probe

Specs from PC Probe:
Vcore: 1.38V
+3.3V: 3.25V
+5.0V: 4.86V
+12.0V: 12.22V
CPU: 30 degrees C
Motherboard: 38 degrees C (odd that its so high)
CPU fan: 2934rpm
Chassis 120mm intake/exhaust fans: 1600rpm


----------



## marsey99

i guess your gpu gets hot too?

download rivatuner and use it to control your gpu fan. turn it up and save it so it runs faster all the time. this alone will help a great lot as when your gpu gets hot it transfers thru the pcie slot and into the mobo. with the nb being so close to the gpu it gets alot of heat from it too.

as for 38c being hot, well thats not that hot but it could be cooler. you can screw a 40mm or 60mm fan onto the stock heatsink on the nb or even get an after market one from thermalright or noctua and they both work well, again these too can have fans attached to them.

you can add your system specs in the user cp at the top of this page.


----------



## RaiDer

Does this board support the E7200, if so how well?


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike431635* 
Sorry here's more info on the system:

CPU: Intel Core2 Duo E6420, 2.13GHz (no overclock)
Motherboard: ASUS P5N-E SLI
Ram Speed, size and #sticks: Corsair DDR2 667MHz, 2x 1GB DIMMs
GPU: nVidia 8800GTS 320mb
PSU: Antec Smartpower 500W; 36A between 2 +12V rails
OS: Windows XP Pro SP2 (fully updated)
Case: Thermaltake SViking
Case fans: 1x 120mm front intake (bottom of case), 1x 120mm rear exhaust (top of case) -- also, I'm running it with the side of the case off since with it on my mobo temps were hitting 48-50 C and making a warning go off in PC Probe

Specs from PC Probe:
Vcore: 1.38V
+3.3V: 3.25V
+5.0V: 4.86V
+12.0V: 12.22V
CPU: 30 degrees C
Motherboard: 38 degrees C (odd that its so high)
CPU fan: 2934rpm
Chassis 120mm intake/exhaust fans: 1600rpm

Mike, you've made me remember when I first switched to my current case. After getting it, and "finishing' the build, I found out my Antec P182 was notorious for cooking MBs. Your MB temps are of concern, 38, all closed and at load would be acceptable, but a SB and NB that gets that hot is not.

Your budget and desire to fix all will dictate how far you go. But let's stick to all Air Cooling. First area to tackle are the NB and SB. Although you can simply go ahead and stick a 40mm fan on the NB heatsink, and see some improvement, it is not a long term solution. The Antec heatsink should be replaced. If you want to go all out. get a Noctua or Thermalright and keep them well vented, hopefully with its own small fan. Those are excellent choices, but I did not go that far. My temps came down dramatically by improving overall air flow inside my case, and going for Zalman heatsinks, the model 47 heatsinks, a fan shaped model 47 on the NB, and the tall square 47on the SB.

Mind you, if you do not improve your airflow, I believe you'll still have issues, as was the case with my rig. I replaced the factory 120mm fans with 110cfm units from Scythe, and found ways to put another fan pointing at the Ram and the MB for starters. All is kept relatively quiet with a fan controller.
I did install a few more fans, but what really kept all in check was a Thermalright HR series heatsink on my 8800, with its own 92mm Noctua fan. If you don't want to touch your GPU, Rivatuner does help, as suggested by a previous post.

Another thing you might want to check on your build is your PSU. You might be running it too close with just a 500 watt.
I started with what you're running, and found stability by going to a bigger PSU (850 watt Quattro is what I'm running), although I think you'll be within a safe range with anything (good clean power PSU) above 650 watt-Corsair, Zalman, etc.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Gametrader101

I finally got my B3 Q6600 to run @ 3Ghz with 1.33V(auto V setting), but my vdroop is really bad it goes down to 1.20V. A whopping .13V drop for this B3 quad.

Is the no Vdroop mod necessary? At the moment my system seems to be running fine. I had to underclock my memory to 667Mhz to get the cpu to run at 3Ghz. So its at a 1:1 ratio right now.


----------



## marsey99

use the vcore offset an drop your vcore to 1.24v


----------



## Kingflupps

Hi guys, could everyone post there cpu, and motherboard temps please so I can get an idea how mine are in relation. With a thermalrite hr-05 on both the nb & sb and a freezer pro 7 on my cpu (all with as5) my temps are (see below). For the cooling I have are these temps ok or do I need to reseat my heatsinks? Cheers guys.

Warrm room temperature
Mb - 36
Cpu idle 36,37,33,34 
Cpu load 50,51,47,46

Cool room temperature

Mb - 34
Cpu idle 32,33,28,30
Cpu Load 47,48,45,45


----------



## Mike431635

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ProfQ* 
Mike, you've made me remember when I first switched to my current case. After getting it, and "finishing' the build, I found out my Antec P182 was notorious for cooking MBs. Your MB temps are of concern, 38, all closed and at load would be acceptable, but a SB and NB that gets that hot is not.

Your budget and desire to fix all will dictate how far you go. But let's stick to all Air Cooling. First area to tackle are the NB and SB. Although you can simply go ahead and stick a 40mm fan on the NB heatsink, and see some improvement, it is not a long term solution. The Antec heatsink should be replaced. If you want to go all out. get a Noctua or Thermalright and keep them well vented, hopefully with its own small fan. Those are excellent choices, but I did not go that far. My temps came down dramatically by improving overall air flow inside my case, and going for Zalman heatsinks, the model 47 heatsinks, a fan shaped model 47 on the NB, and the tall square 47on the SB.

Mind you, if you do not improve your airflow, I believe you'll still have issues, as was the case with my rig. I replaced the factory 120mm fans with 110cfm units from Scythe, and found ways to put another fan pointing at the Ram and the MB for starters. All is kept relatively quiet with a fan controller.
I did install a few more fans, but what really kept all in check was a Thermalright HR series heatsink on my 8800, with its own 92mm Noctua fan. If you don't want to touch your GPU, Rivatuner does help, as suggested by a previous post.

Another thing you might want to check on your build is your PSU. You might be running it too close with just a 500 watt.
I started with what you're running, and found stability by going to a bigger PSU (850 watt Quattro is what I'm running), although I think you'll be within a safe range with anything (good clean power PSU) above 650 watt-Corsair, Zalman, etc.

Hope this helps.

TYVM for this post, very informative. I've been suspecting the PSU, especially after looking and seeing that it's power is divided between two +12V rails. If one rail failed, I would still read 12V, but would only be getting 18A. I seem to recall hearing a rather loud "snapping" type noise the night before the PC started its freezing business. I've been thinking about going with a Corsair PSU with a single +12V rail @ 60A (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006 to be specific).

Could a faulty PSU seriously cause freezing like this? I've also been thinking about getting an Antec 900 case since I'm due for an upgrade anyhow.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kingflupps* 
Hi guys, could everyone post there cpu, and motherboard temps please so I can get an idea how mine are in relation. With a thermalrite hr-05 on both the nb & sb and a freezer pro 7 on my cpu (all with as5) my temps are (see below). For the cooling I have are these temps ok or do I need to reseat my heatsinks? Cheers guys.

Warrm room temperature
Mb - 36
Cpu idle 36,37,33,34
Cpu load 50,51,47,46

Cool room temperature

Mb - 34
Cpu idle 32,33,28,30
Cpu Load 47,48,45,45


hmmn cpu temps are within parameters you must have a high vcore though because on mine bear in mind i have air con and my room is never over or under 21c are
mobo currently 27c
cpu idle 22,23,23,23
cpu load 31,33,30,30

i do have 9 cooling fans though








my temps are taken from everest ultimate i have a tt blue orb 2 and AS5 also have just a fan on my north bridge







my case does most of the cooling TT armor + esa and i have a fan controller etc.. hottest component in my case is my GPU being 38c my hdds are all at or just above ambient same as my cpu :/


----------



## marsey99

your case will have a large impact on your temps, a900 or cm690 are 2 of the best (on the cheap) as they are just a bunch of fan mounts that fits around a pc.

your temps seem about right tbh, ac f7p is about on its limit with a quad and in the main most are lucky to get 3ghz under it. your mobo temp will have more to do with the gpu temp than any thing so if you use rivatuner to up your fan speed it will bring your mobo down too.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike431635* 
TYVM for this post, very informative. I've been suspecting the PSU, especially after looking and seeing that it's power is divided between two +12V rails. If one rail failed, I would still read 12V, but would only be getting 18A. I seem to recall hearing a rather loud "snapping" type noise the night before the PC started its freezing business. I've been thinking about going with a Corsair PSU with a single +12V rail @ 60A (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139006 to be specific).

Could a faulty PSU seriously cause freezing like this? I've also been thinking about getting an Antec 900 case since I'm due for an upgrade anyhow.

You bet it will cause a big issue. Its not as much the voltage as the amps. You may have all the water in the world (volts) but if you can't pump it where you want it (amps) it doesn't do you or anybody that much good. Personally I need a new psu myself. You can find the amperage by grabbing a multimeter and testing your 12 volt rails.

Hope this helps


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gametrader101* 
A whopping .13V drop for this B3 quad.

Wow...maybe I need to do the vdroop mod because my dual core sags worse than that.


----------



## matsta31

Hi,

tried to look but was wondering if there was a comparaison between 750i and 650i for this board ? I am currently using 750i bios 0804

And for the record, here is my system :

Intel E6700 @ 3.4 ghz (vcore : 1.45; 1.39 under load, NB 1.4, SB 1.5, HT 1.35)
Ram : OCZ platinum Rev2 Vdimm 2.11 and 5-5-5-12-2x
XFX 8800 GT 
CPU cooler : IFX-14


----------



## Mike431635

Success! I figured out my problem. On a whim I went to the WD website, downloaded their HDD diagnostic tools, and ran the extended test for 2 hours. Turns out it isn't a motherboard issue at all. It found "multiple errors" and corrected them, now all my problems are gone.

I've got this board OC'ed to 3.0 GHz right now and have been running Prime95 stable for 12 hours now. CoreTemp is showing 53C as the highest temp under load right now, and PC Probe is showing 44C. I HAVE gotten lots of voltage warnings (Vcore, 3.3V, 5.0V, and 12.0V) but they haven't dipped below 1.39V for the Vcore (set at 1.42 in the BIOS I do believe), 3.22V for 3.3V, 4.84V for 5.0V, and 12.16V for 12.0V. I did actually witness a 3.3V spike to 3.75V, and I assume these kinds of spikes are causing the warnings. I guess it's safe to say I need a new PSU-- upgrading to a Corsair 750W.

Also, I'm going to be reseating the stock NB heatsink with some AS5, upgrading the CPU cooler to the revered Zalman unit with AS5, and pushing for 3.4+ GHz. I'd like to add some active cooling to the NB, hows the best way to do this? I was thinking 2 40mm Scythe fans would work, but how do I mount them? I've yet to actually see pics of it done or a description of how exactly they're mounted, but I have seen people say they've added fans.


----------



## marsey99

a 60mm fan can be screwed to the stock heatsink, or a nc-06 or hr-05 (google) with a stock intel cpu fan (cable tied) would be even better.

zalman looks better than it cools, true, tuniq tower or ifx-14 are the best in no real order


----------



## JerseyDubbin

hey guys..again

for some reason i decided to OC tonight. worked my way up to 3.2 with a 1/1 ratio and i fail orthos in the first 4 seconds. Runs stable posts and everything is fine till i run orthos and it fails. It is sig rig and will have more details when i get back to my house off campus at like 12 tonight

1600fsb


----------



## Mike431635

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


hey guys..again

for some reason i decided to OC tonight. worked my way up to 3.2 with a 1/1 ratio and i fail orthos in the first 4 seconds. Runs stable posts and everything is fine till i run orthos and it fails. It is sig rig and will have more details when i get back to my house off campus at like 12 tonight

1600fsb


I'm stable at the same OC as you, but I'm having to use some old Corsair VS PC2-5300 since my XMS2 PC6400 died







So I have the 667MHz-rated RAM running at 800MHz, and I think thats as far as I want to push mine. I have a couple thoughts on what can be holding you back. For one, I'm not sure what your PSU is rated at or how old it is, but I'm running a 2-yr-old Antec SmartPower 500W and when I bought it I only looked at the wattage. It was fine for the machine I was running when it was new, but I believe the new rig I've been running since Oct or so is too much for it. Running PC Probe, I get warnings on every voltage imaginable but not bad enough to make it fail any stress tests.

I looked into the Rosewill 500W PSU's, and there were 2-- 1 had 26A on 1 12V rail, the other had 31A between 2 12V rails. I'm in that range too and I believe my PSU to be a severely limiting factor in how far I will be able to push my machine. I'm looking into a Corsair single-rail 750W PSU, you should probably do the same.

Also, what timings are your memory running at? If you're running 4-4-4-12 (what is probably recommended for your RAM), you will probably need to loosen the timings up some to get it to work at higher frequencies. Try 4-4-4-15, 4-5-5-15, 5-5-5-15, or somewhere along those lines. And if you haven't already, manually set the voltages of your entire system. My OC runs fine with vcore at 1.42V (around there, not sure the exact BIOS setting), dipping down to 1.39V during full load. I'm running the second-lowest available NB voltage in the latest BIOS revision too. Hope that gives you a good starting-off point. Once you're happy with your overclock you can back down the vcore to see how little voltage you can get away with.


----------



## LTSMASH

Anybody here want to help me overclock my Q6600 G0 on the 0901 P5N-E SLI board? 4x1gb C4 DDR2 800 Corsair memory!


----------



## JerseyDubbin

so i throttled it down to a 1533 fsb and about 800dram and i use everest to check my temps but i wasn't sure about them. I downloaded speedfan and they were insane!!!!!!!

screenshots and my memory fails orthos at different times are my settings off. I didn't loosen timings they are still 4-4-4-12

screenshots










just ten seconds after start orthos


----------



## Guide_Timothy

Hi everyone







can you tell me if this case and this CPU cooler is good ?? I'm gonna have a INTEL CORE 2 QUAD Q6600 2.4GHZ FSB 1066, 8MB















Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated


----------



## MrQ

@LTSMASH check the guide in my sig for an overclocking manual. You WILL NOT be able to overclock the quad on anything other than the 0608 BIOS.

@Timothy: Looks good. Could you give us the specs on the case and cooler for good measure tho?


----------



## Guide_Timothy

OK HERES THE DETAILS TO THE CASE I WANNA GET









Key Features
Enclosure Color Silver
Regular 5.25" Bays 5
Regular 3.5" Bays 4
Regular External 3.5" Bays 1
Qty per pallet 40
Front Ports 2xUSB
Cooling System 2xFan
Built-in SCA Bays N/A
Power Supply 400W
Chassis Type Mid Tower
Weight 15 lbs
Warranty 1 year
Motherboard I/O Expansion Slots 7
LEDs N/A
Accessories N/A
Rackmount Rail Kit N/A
Intrusion Switch N/A
Dimensions WxDxH 200x430x440 mm
Motherboard Supported up to Form Factor ATX, Micro ATX and Baby ATX

Detail Specifications
Screwless installation for 5.25 inch and 3.5 inch Devices.
SECC steel construction.
Steel Plated front panel with black chrome finish.
Sleek, stealthed clear side panel ( Optional ).
Thermal display meter.
Custom NZXT fangrill.
Black/Silver reflective coated finish.
One 80mm blue LED fan (side).
One 80mm fan ( rear ).
Ext. Ports - 2 x USB 2.0, Mic and Headphone Jack.
Model - Trinity Series.
Case Type - Mid. Tower Steel Chassis Case.
Cooling System -
Front - 1 X 120 mm (optional).
Rear - 1 X 120 mm (80mm included).
Side Panel - 1 X 80mm Blue LED (included).
Side - 1 X 80mm Slim Fan (optional).
Drive Bay - Front Accessible - Internal
9 Drive Bays.
5 External 5.25 inch Drive Bays.
1 External 3.5 inch Drive Bays.
4 Internal 3.5 inch Drive Bays.
Screwless Rail Design for 5.25 inch and 3.5 inch Bays.
Material - SECC Steel.
7 Extension Slot.
Power Supply - 400 Watt PS2 ATX 12V (Optional).
Motherboard Support - Motherboards - ATX, Micro -ATX, Baby ATX


----------



## MrQ

A brand name might be a good start...?


----------



## Guide_Timothy

sorry







heres the link that has other pics http://www.nzxt.com/products/trinity/ and more details


----------



## marsey99

@jersey

***s going on with your volts and temps?

2.2vcore 18c idle? somthing looks very wrong.

as for the core temps, well stock cooling sucks.


----------



## LTSMASH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


@LTSMASH check the guide in my sig for an overclocking manual. You WILL NOT be able to overclock the quad on anything other than the 0608 BIOS.

@Timothy: Looks good. Could you give us the specs on the case and cooler for good measure tho?


I just tried flashing my BIOS and it said something like "not suitable bios version" or something like that. What would that mean? (I tried doing it in Asus E.Z Flash through the BIOS)


----------



## MrQ

Follow the guide in my sig exactly. And you should get through it without any issues.


----------



## LTSMASH

I tried booting from CD and thumb drive.... won't work
I have ULTRA ISO and i downloaded the necessary files. I don't really understand what it means by " Now you need to open the ISO image and add the bios files and AWDFLASH.exe into the existing list of files."
what existing list of files?
any help would be nice.


----------



## r0b126

2x 9600GT 512MB 650/1800 stock speeds
Asus P5N-E 650i SLi motherboard
E8400 3.0GHz/1333MHz FSB (reduced it to stock from 3.6GHz temporarily)
Win XP x64 and 2GB of ram

With 1 9600GT (either one) in the machine, everything is fine. All games run, 0 problems, etc...

With 2 in SLi, I can run 3dMark06 beginning to end with 0 problems and get 13,500 marks with everything at stock.

I can play The Witcher in SLi with 0 problems

WoW and Crysis....

WoW with the cards in SLi causes my system to freeze within 5-10 seconds every single time. My machine did not have any trouble with WoW and SLi when I used 2x 7600GS or 2x 8600GT. Used both those pairs for months each. With the 9600GT's we have trouble.

Same problems in Crysis as with WoW and the SLi situation

You might have been wondering why I am using 2GB instead of at least 4GB of ram while I have XP x64 installed. Previously I had to underclock my mem from 800MHz to 667MHz in order to get it to boot on this board with 4x 1GB dimms. The board, plain and simple, does not like 4 dimms of anything.

When I loaded the crysis demo at work to show someone; right after the "this is a demo msg" it blue screened and would not power back on. This is with 2x 1gb dimms. I had to move the dimms from slots 1A/B to slots 2A/B before it would power back on. The machine is up and running now, but again.... same SLi issues that I already mentioned above.

I am using the 174.74 driver. I tried using the 174.53 beta driver and had the exact same issue. One person thought that it might be the 64 bit OS that is the culprit. I can easily switch back to XP 32-bit. Just looking for some thoughts here.


----------



## marsey99

pcie2 cards getting choked on 2 x8 pcie slots?

mine hated 4 dimms to so i switched to 2x2gb stix and all was good but in the end that board was limited to 440fsb ddr1000, mine anyway. some do ok with 4 dimms but not all ???


----------



## r0b126

I swear some of you people read part of a post, quit, then throw unrelated and useless advice at it.


----------



## UkGouki

my corsair dimms xms2 cas4 i had to manually set the timings so i could boot, this board Does not like Epp/sli memory you need to disable it in bios as soon as i did that and manually set the ram timings it booted without fail on all 4 slots.

also i use A1 B1 for duel channel memory if your only using 2 sticks! as for the 9600gt issue i can only suggest its the downgrade to 8x speed in sli best suggestion upgrade to a 750i/780 or 790i motherboard this board does not like 2.0 speed gpus in sli period!

nvidias website state they need duel 16x speed sli to work correctly im going to an evga 790i or asus havent made my mind up will when i get the finaces for it! so i can sli my 8800gts with a my second card i got yesterday for my birthday without getting bsod's on games and blackouts!


----------



## marsey99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *r0b126*


Just looking for some thoughts here.


is that not what you asked for?

or is it not the advice you wanted?

can you try another board with the rest of the setup the same to discount my thoughts?


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Guide_Timothy*


Hi everyone







can you tell me if this case and this CPU cooler is good ?? I'm gonna have a INTEL CORE 2 QUAD Q6600 2.4GHZ FSB 1066, 8MB















Any suggestions or advice will be appreciated










Drop the Asus cooler and get a better one. Asus products have never been great to keep your chip frosty. Yes, they look sweet but they don't really cool very well.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JerseyDubbin*


so i throttled it down to a 1533 fsb and about 800dram and i use everest to check my temps but i wasn't sure about them. I downloaded speedfan and they were insane!!!!!!!

screenshots and my memory fails orthos at different times are my settings off. I didn't loosen timings they are still 4-4-4-12

screenshots










just ten seconds after start orthos














































Dude, what is up with your voltages?! 2.2v? I'm going to assume that it's a misread since that's enough to fry just about any chip. Also your temperatures will always be high because you're still on stock cooling.


----------



## marsey99

yea perry after looking at that again it seems that vcore is the vdimm and the +3.3 is the vcore? i think, but 1,54v to the cpu would also explain the high core temp along with the stock hs.


----------



## Mike431635

Ok, I seem to have hit a wall with my overclock.

I've got my system running Prime95 stable @ 3.2GHz for over 24 hours. I'm running an E6420 (stock 2.13GHz) with a FSB of 400MHz (rated 1600MHz), and this chip has a multiplier of 8. At idle, it's running VERY cool. Coretemp reports 25C/24C on both cores, and at load I'm only hitting 51C/50C after 24 hrs.

Now, here's the weird part. My Corsair XMS2 memory died (unrelated to overclocking, had to do with my HDD failure I believe), so I'm running some Corsair PC2-5300 (667MHz stock-- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145098). I set it to unlinked, and the highest I can take the memory to is 800MHz. 805MHz and it won't POST. So coincidentally I'm running 1:1. Here's the funky part. I raise the system FSB to 401MHz or higher, and the memory frequency (even though its UNLINKED) drops automatically down to like 795MHz. I think at 1650MHz, it dropped down to 775MHz.

When it does this, it will boot into Windows but will either throw a BSOD or lock up after <10 sec of Prime95, if it gets that far. What's the deal here? Is my memory holding me back? I was under the impression that I could run it unlinked and keep the memory at 800MHz and take the chip independently as far as it will go (I was aiming for as close to 4.0GHz as possible). I'm running Vcore of 1.42V, memory at 1.9-something volts, and the NB is at the center setting (can't remember what it is, theres only 3 available in the BIOS). I've tried raising Vcore and Vdimm, with no success.

So am I stuck until I pick up some PC2-8500? Or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## marsey99

when you alter the fsb the board is adjusting the ram so it will run on 1 of the dividers the mobo has.

i would try 1.56v on the nb and see if that helps.

3.2ghz ddr1066 will be a nice setup for 24/7. i wish you all the luck in the world for getting 4ghz on the x8 with this mobo, mine maxxed out at 440/ddr1000/pcie125.


----------



## Mike431635

Thx marsey. Didn't know it would force you into one of the dividers, good info to have. I'll up the NB voltage but I don't know how much that will help. The NB runs extremely hot as it is, and I'm still waiting for my 60mm fan to get here so I can cool that mother off.

I'm planning on going to a Q6600 (and probably on a different board, since this one hates quads) around Aug or Sept, so if I can't hit 4 GHz I'll get as close as I possibly can.


----------



## Gauvenator

I know this mobo is not much for quads, but if I put a q6700 in it, do you all think it would take it fine (and a mild OC to 2.8)? I know I'm lucky that I can run 4 sticks of ram, and I was wondering if this would destabilize that.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


yea perry after looking at that again it seems that vcore is the vdimm and the +3.3 is the vcore? i think, but 1,54v to the cpu would also explain the high core temp along with the stock hs.


Very strange that Everest is reading things that way, especially since it reads fine with me but it does appear that what you said is correct.

Now if only they'd give us something that will show us realtime northbridge and southbridge voltage along with vdimm (I didn't think Everest was able to report vdimm except in this weird case).


----------



## SickStew

Hi Everyone i'm Stew from the UK

I've got a P5N-E motherboard. I was wondering how to overclock my P4 without overclocking my ram. I'll tell you step by step how i overclock my PC

step 1 turn PC on
step 2 Hit delete as soon as the asus screen appears
step 3 it loads up menu
step 4 i select advance and then AI config
step 5 I select AI 20%
step 6 I save setting and system boots up

But the only problem is it overclocks my ram meaning i can't get the max out of my P4

How can I OC without oc'ing my ram

Regards
Stew


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SickStew*


Hi Everyone i'm Stew from the UK

I've got a P5N-E motherboard. I was wondering how to overclock my P4 without overclocking my ram. I'll tell you step by step how i overclock my PC

step 1 turn PC on
step 2 Hit delete as soon as the asus screen appears
step 3 it loads up menu
step 4 i select advance and then AI config
step 5 I select AI 20%
step 6 I save setting and system boots up

But the only problem is it overclocks my ram meaning i can't get the max out of my P4

How can I OC without oc'ing my ram

Regards
Stew



go into advanced dont use ai overclock use unlinked set the fsb on your cpu to 1200 for a small overclock 1300fsb is roughly 20% by unlinking your ram & cpu when you overclock your ram wont be affected


----------



## Silver_WRX02

Did anyone try the new beta bios v1002? I wanna know did Asus improve overclocking for Quad in this beta version. In Asus's site it list that Fix no display issue when using AMD 3870X2 VGA card, but I think sometime they may has improve things more than they listed. I can get overclock my quad with 0608 bios, but it has conflict with my Cyber Snipa Stinger Mouse. I think the problem is same as the Razer Mouse which Asus fixed it on 0801 bios. I have to unplug the mouse everytime when I restart my computer and I have to underclock my ram to 667 to make it boot. If anyone find that it has improve on overclock on this bios, please post some info. Thanks in advance.


----------



## marsey99

the newwer bios will be geared more towards the 45nm chips, i think 0608 is still the best for quads.


----------



## seanx

Hi guys , 
I was struggling to get anything over 2.8ghz , using an E4500 (for now from work lol )
with the following settings
fsb = 1020
vcore = 1.331
memVT = 2.178
NB = auto
mem timing = 5 5 5 18 trfc=54 , 2T
unlinked

however changed mem timings to linked and set the ratio manually to 3 : 2
and now can get to 2.95ghz , currrently testing and trying to get stable,
p.s just ran 3dmark06 and she rebooted ... will try up vcore now
;-)


----------



## seanx

update on 3ghz ... works fine however needs at least 1.4 vcore ..
so I will have to wait till I get a better case for my TRUE120 ,
any1 know of this case?
http://www.versit.co.za/FindCategory...r+Case+(Gaming)


----------



## marsey99

that sounds about right for the speed, you may get to about 3.2on about that vcore.


----------



## Gauvenator

Again, does anyone here have experience with the Q6700 and this board?

I'm curious about how having a quad will affect the stability of my other components and how well it will oc (I've heard the q6600 maxes around 3 on this board)


----------



## marsey99

its still the power regs that will hold you back m8, the higher multi might get you a bit higher but then again this will depend on the vcore needed.

its a shame they wont support the 45nm quads as their lower vcore would be ideal for this mobo.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


its still the power regs that will hold you back m8, the higher multi might get you a bit higher but then again this will depend on the vcore needed.

its a shame they wont support the 45nm quads as their lower vcore would be ideal for this mobo.


Is it just not supported but you can still use 45nm quads? Or are they just not compatible at all?


----------



## Perry

Edit...


----------



## marsey99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Is it just not supported but you can still use 45nm quads? Or are they just not compatible at all?


tbh im not sure, the offical line is that they dont support it but as to wether it would work i dont know. from what i read about the 680i its to do with the power delivery but i think its intel playing hardball with nvidia.


----------



## WAZZ UP

hey yall,

im having problems with my computer crashing alot, ive noticed that it happens when my motherboard goes over 45c. is that a safe temperature for the motherboard?

thanks in advance


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WAZZ UP* 
hey yall,

im having problems with my computer crashing alot, ive noticed that it happens when my motherboard goes over *45c.* is that a safe temperature for the motherboard?

thanks in advance

I should hope not!! That temp is way outta bounds on this motherboard. A temp of 35-38C is quite normal however. I would double check your northbridge and see if that heatsink is doing its job. (BTW what are you using to gauge this? Asus PC Probe?)

What I would do is boot up the computer, keep an eye on the temps, and a hand on the NB HS. If that sucker is starting to burn your hand then there is your issue. Also I would turn off any overclocks you have running.


----------



## aleiro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


I should hope not!! That temp is way outta bounds on this motherboard. A temp of 35-38C is quite normal however. I would double check your northbridge and see if that heatsink is doing its job. (BTW what are you using to gauge this? Asus PC Probe?)

What I would do is boot up the computer, keep an eye on the temps, and a hand on the NB HS. If that sucker is starting to burn your hand then there is your issue. Also I would turn off any overclocks you have running.


that is completely wrong.. the NB is good up until 70-75C. Yes it is safe you might want to increase the air flow through your case though.


----------



## aleiro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Again, does anyone here have experience with the Q6700 and this board?

I'm curious about how having a quad will affect the stability of my other components and how well it will oc (I've heard the q6600 maxes around 3 on this board)


dont use this board for quads. you can get a max of three if you are lucky, on my old p5n-e i could only get 3.0 to boot but 2.8 was stable


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*


that is completely wrong.. the NB is good up until 70-75C. Yes it is safe you might want to increase the air flow through your case though.


The NB might be safe up to that temp, but if its getting that hot on normal operation then there is a problem. That is why I said what I did.


----------



## Perry

There is no confirmation that the motherboard temperature is actually being read by a sensor in the northbridge but I do agree that his motherboard temperature is a bit too high. My case has terrible air circulation since it's tucked in under the desk and I don't recalling going above 36 degrees.

How are your case fans setup?

Going back to whether or not the motherboard temperature is being read by the northbridge I feel safe saying that this value is not being read by a sensor in that area. The temperature never rises under full load with the northbridge at stock (1.25v according to Everest) or with it bumped up to 1.393v.


----------



## WAZZ UP

thanks you for your reply's.

im using the asus pc probe & also the CPUID hardware monitor. here i have a screenshot of what it is at idle..










i have 2 80" fans both on the sides and 1 120" fan on the front all blowing air out.

i managed to find a fan to stick on the NB heatsink (i believe) which seemed to keep my pc abit more stable but still the temperature is at 45c.










maybe i should apply AS5 to the NB (which ive never done before on any motherboard)?

any ideas please let me know, its greatly appreciated. oh and it doesnt burn my hand but its quite hot.


----------



## mcogan10

how much voltage do you have running through it? I have lower-decent airflow, and I have 1.393v through my NB with no problems.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


There is no confirmation that the motherboard temperature is actually being read by a sensor in the northbridge but I do agree that his motherboard temperature is a bit too high. My case has terrible air circulation since it's tucked in under the desk and I don't recalling going above 36 degrees.

How are your case fans setup?

Going back to whether or not the motherboard temperature is being read by the northbridge I feel safe saying that this value is not being read by a sensor in that area. The temperature never rises under full load with the northbridge at stock (1.25v according to Everest) or with it bumped up to 1.393v.


Agreed. Some people say it is placed above or in between the GPU's so that could be your heat problem there.

Putting AS5 on the NB is be a good start and I recommend it to anybody who is using this board regardless of whether they overclock or not.


----------



## Perry

I agree as well...I just wish there was a temperature sensor confirmed at the northbridge so I could have had before and after temperatures.

Now I just need to get my hands on a low profile heatsink for the southbridge. That thing is an inferno!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I agree as well...I just wish there was a temperature sensor confirmed at the northbridge so I could have had before and after temperatures.

Now I just need to get my hands on a low profile heatsink for the southbridge. That thing is an inferno!


Check out the Cooler Master Blue Ice. I used just the heatsink it came with.


----------



## marsey99

an nvidia guy on xs said these c55 nb loses performance once they hit 65c, and if they hit 95/105c it will damage them but they should shutdown before that point.

i have thermal probes in my case from a fan controller and even when i was running my p5n on 1.7v it only hi 55c but i did replace the stock heatsink. my sb used to hover around 40c but that too had a heatsink on it as well.

its a great board and the cooling works well at stock speeds/volts but if you want to push it hard you need to beef up the cooling. you can get a 60mm fan for the stock nb heatsink and that would help but i would get a hr-05 or a nc-06 for the nb, and a heatsink for the sb too. if your sli you will need a low profile but if you only have 1 card its height wont matter as a dula slot card will just fit.


----------



## SickStew

Hi Guy I have this mother and i want to upgrade my CPU

I need to know if I should go with a E7200 or E8400 people have been saying I can hit 4Ghz with E8400 and 3+ with E7200 what is best for this board


----------



## marsey99

i think it would hit 4ghz with the 7xxx series chips too if your lucky with the chip, but the x200 series has the lower multi so that may lessen your overclock.

the higher multi on the 8400 makes it the safer option tbh as it puts less stress on the nb.


----------



## SickStew

The E7200 has a Multiple of 9.5 and the E8400 has a Multiple of 9

E8400 = Â£140
E7200 = Â£85 plus if you oc it to %20 you achieve 3.04Ghz which is the same as the E8400 for nearly half the price!


----------



## theshadowman

Hi everybody.

Just been reading all the posts here and there some really good things here








i would like some help if pos please.
i have a intel c2d e6600 2.4ghz cpu stock intel cooler
OCZ DDR2 PC2-6400 Reaper CL4 4GB Edition
xfx gf8800gtx xxx etreme edition gfx
asus pn5-e sli mobo
hyper 680 watt psu

i have tryed to oc before but dont know a great deal about it tbo.
i know my way around the bios ect, but not sure on setting for ram cpu ocing.
i have been told i could get the mem above 1000mhz which would be nice and also to get my cpu up to 3ghz+
any help on this would be great.

ty for ur time


----------



## TriBeCa

Hey guys, been a while since I dropped by here.

Friend of mine just got a multimeter, so I may try out the pencil mod on this board. Does anyone have that pic of the connection you need to bridge for it? I could search through this thread to find it, but it's such a pain....

Also, does anyone know how much resistance I should be aiming to have on that connection?


----------



## endfx

Hi everyone,

I just ordered this motherboard (should be here in a couple of days), but I haven't picked out a CPU yet.

Is there anyone that can tell me what bios version this board typically ships with these days?
I want to get either the E8200 or the E6750. They are both supported, but with newer bios versions.

My problem is that I don't have a spare 775 cpu to use to upgrade the bios with, so I need to buy a cpu that will work with the default bios version. Anybody know what I can expect out of the box?

Thanks!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *endfx* 
Hi everyone,

I just ordered this motherboard (should be here in a couple of days), but I haven't picked out a CPU yet.

Is there anyone that can tell me what bios version this board typically ships with these days?
I want to get either the E8200 or the E6750. They are both supported, but with newer bios versions.

My problem is that I don't have a spare 775 cpu to use to upgrade the bios with, so I need to buy a cpu that will work with the default bios version. Anybody know what I can expect out of the box?

Thanks!

Well the E6750 should work out of the box. The E8200 I believe will work so long as you have 0803 or later iirc.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Hey guys, been a while since I dropped by here.


Funny thing, me too. I see we have quite a few more 3.0GHz stable quads on the P5N-E SLI- Good work sharing info and helping each other out.
















Hey TriBeCa- check out the latest updates to my sig. That's the very same Q6600 I had running 333x9 @ 1.22V on the old P5N-E I had, Ditched the Ballistix D9GMH 2x1Gb for the 4x1Gb Kingston PC8500, and mmmmm.....happy camper!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Hey guys, been a while since I dropped by here.

Friend of mine just got a multimeter, so I may try out the pencil mod on this board. Does anyone have that pic of the connection you need to bridge for it? I could search through this thread to find it, but it's such a pain....

Also, does anyone know how much resistance I should be aiming to have on that connection?

Here's the pic I used:










If I recall correctly, ~65-70ohm worked best. But I ditched it after I read an article about the purpose of vdroop, and then ran into instability.


----------



## brandon6199

Just out of curiosity, what's the highest 24/7 overclock anyone has had with this board? And what's the highest overclock anyone has ever hit on this board?


----------



## spengos

Hey guys, I'm newbee here so please be gentle.









I've been searching the Internet for days to fix my ram problem on this motherboard. I've read a load of pages from this HUGE thread but just can't find what i'm looking for.

Basically I've been trying to get my 4x1GB 800Mhz ram modules running as they should but have had no joy. I can run them at 666Mhz with a slight boost in mem voltage but thats it.

I've been reading about possible fixes via the bios updates but not sure which one to use or how to do this, exactly.

To be honest this is really starting to kill my head and I'm tempted to just buy a new mb or maybe just get 2x2GB of new ram, if this would actually make a difference??

Can someone help me out before I go completely mad. Thanks!


----------



## KHORR

Hey guys, noob here too









I pulled off my first (basic, and minor) overclock yesterday on my E6300 with stock air cooling on this board. The only thing I upped was my FSB, and I got my cpu to 2ghz. It's running on about 50-53 degrees under load, but I have a new Zalman CPU cooler on the way now.

The only thing I have questions about is voltages and my ram. I don't have any idea what they should be at and I've tried to research it all but it's really confusing. My voltages would be at normal, because I haven't changed them - along with my ram. I have 2GB DDR2 Geil ram, showing PC2-6400C4 800mhz, but I'm not sure of my timings.. I THINK it's 4-4-4-12. Either that or one lower.

My memory frequency in BIOS is set at 800mhz, and my FSB at 1144, for 2002ghz. Does anyone know what else I should change? If anything?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Funny thing, me too. I see we have quite a few more 3.0GHz stable quads on the P5N-E SLI- Good work sharing info and helping each other out.
















Hey TriBeCa- check out the latest updates to my sig. That's the very same Q6600 I had running 333x9 @ 1.22V on the old P5N-E I had, Ditched the Ballistix D9GMH 2x1Gb for the 4x1Gb Kingston PC8500, and mmmmm.....happy camper!










Nice to see you again Ravin









Care to race that rig against the new one I just got my supervisor to buy and let me build? It's not in my sig (not technically mine), but check this baby out:

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=360441

I've actually managed to get my vcore down to 1.2525v and falling...gonna try 1.23 tonight. And I love how well my 4 x 2GB of XMS2 is holding up, rock solid on the ip35 pro.

Only thing is I can't run FutureMark benchies because they don't have an XP x64 version









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Here's the pic I used:










If I recall correctly, ~65-70ohm worked best. But I ditched it after I read an article about the purpose of vdroop, and then ran into instability.


Thanks a ton. Although I was gonna just pencil mod it... is it the same connection? Haven't got a soldering iron handy









Quote:



Originally Posted by *spengos*


Hey guys, I'm newbee here so please be gentle.









I've been searching the Internet for days to fix my ram problem on this motherboard. I've read a load of pages from this HUGE thread but just can't find what i'm looking for.

Basically I've been trying to get my 4x1GB 800Mhz ram modules running as they should but have had no joy. I can run them at 666Mhz with a slight boost in mem voltage but thats it.

I've been reading about possible fixes via the bios updates but not sure which one to use or how to do this, exactly.

To be honest this is really starting to kill my head and I'm tempted to just buy a new mb or maybe just get 2x2GB of new ram, if this would actually make a difference??

Can someone help me out before I go completely mad. Thanks!










Try increasing vNB to 1.5, or the setting right under that. If you do end up at 1.5, make sure you've at least replaced the stock TIM on the heatsink--preferably replace the sink entirely.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


Hey guys, noob here too









I pulled off my first (basic, and minor) overclock yesterday on my E6300 with stock air cooling on this board. The only thing I upped was my FSB, and I got my cpu to 2ghz. It's running on about 50-53 degrees under load, but I have a new Zalman CPU cooler on the way now.

The only thing I have questions about is voltages and my ram. I don't have any idea what they should be at and I've tried to research it all but it's really confusing. My voltages would be at normal, because I haven't changed them - along with my ram. I have 2GB DDR2 Geil ram, showing PC2-6400C4 800mhz, but I'm not sure of my timings.. I THINK it's 4-4-4-12. Either that or one lower.

My memory frequency in BIOS is set at 800mhz, and my FSB at 1144, for 2002ghz. Does anyone know what else I should change? If anything?


Check out the OCing guide in my sig, that should help









And if you leave voltages on auto and increase FSB, the board will increase voltages on it's own--typically much more than you want it too. It's always a better idea to set them manually.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Nice to see you again Ravin









Care to race that rig against the new one I just got my supervisor to buy and let me build? It's not in my sig (not technically mine), but check this baby out:


That's a pretty sweet rig there. Sure I'll take you on, just give me a little time for the HD4xxx release and some cold ambients.









I'm posting 4.0GHz and DDR1200 speeds, and can get the Windows log in screen.....I know I can get it stable.....I know I can...... my 9x multi vs that 7.5x......I can win!


----------



## TriBeCa

nice.... Have you seen the xbit labs review comparing the q6600 to the q9300? When both are OC'd the benchmarks range from like +20% to -20% advantage, with the q9300 having the edge on a few more of the benches. But if you get up to 4GHz I'm toast... this is a work rig, so no suicide runs, IHS lapping, vdroop mods, etc. etc.







That and it's been tough for me to push my RAM too hard, the MCH had enough trouble with these 4 DIMMs at stock (had to add 0.25v just to get the RAM to run at stock).

And what you can't see in the cpu-z link is the 4 500GB drives in RAID10









Oh yeah, and I promise to lose any graphics benchies, cause I only dropped $35 on this graphics card


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


nice.... Have you seen the xbit labs review comparing the q6600 to the q9300? When both are OC'd the benchmarks range from like +20% to -20% advantage, with the q9300 having the edge on a few more of the benches. But if you get up to 4GHz I'm toast... this is a work rig, so no suicide runs, IHS lapping, vdroop mods, etc. etc.







That and it's been tough for me to push my RAM too hard, the MCH had enough trouble with these 4 DIMMs at stock (had to add 0.25v just to get the RAM to run at stock).

And what you can't see in the cpu-z link is the 4 500GB drives in RAID10









Oh yeah, and I promise to lose any graphics benchies, cause I only dropped $35 on this graphics card










You're right, on a clock for clock basis, the Q9300 wins due to cache and instruction set differences, but if I can get you by 10% clock speed we're neck and neck. I don't think 4GHz stable is unreasonable for me, although my cooling is holding me back. Temp increases and Vcore requirements above 3.6GHz are exponential and not linear. I've got lots of headroom with Vcore but not temp.

You may be able to decrease Vdimm a little and compensate with an increase in VNB to get your 4 sticks stable. I had to increase my VNB (.08V from 1.41Vto 1.49V) slightly to get my 4x1Gb stable at any speed. I really had to crank it up to get 800MHz CAS3 (like to 1.75V).

Man that 8400GS will crush my 7600GT


----------



## TriBeCa

we've totally hijacked this thread... sorry everyone. But I think Ravin and I have paid our dues in this thread for long enough to get away with it









I guess I was unclear there--I increased vNB by 0.25v, not vdimm. 2.35v on these DIMMs would be madness without at least active cooling, at least on a work machine.

So considering the futuremark benches are a no-go for me on this rig (until I get fed up and switch to vista, anyway), which ones you wanna use? SuperPi 1M and 32M, and some SiSoft Sandra benches?


----------



## Asce

I think some of the old guys of the thread deserve that







Ive had my E6420 at 3.66ghz but i reckon ive hit the limit my cpu can go.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I think some of the old guys of the thread deserve that







Ive had my E6420 at 3.66ghz but i reckon ive hit the limit my cpu can go.


great to see you man!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *brandon6199*


Just out of curiosity, what's the highest 24/7 overclock anyone has had with this board? And what's the highest overclock anyone has ever hit on this board?










I run 1800fsb for 3.15ghz at 1.44vcore, 1.56nb, 24/7. Not sure if it's the highest, but a 1.3ghz OC over stock is pretty nice imo.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Thanks a ton. Although I was gonna just pencil mod it... is it the same connection? Haven't got a soldering iron handy










I used a pencil. Just put on a few strokes, test the resistance. It is a pain to get the leads on those tiny resistors tho.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


we've totally hijacked this thread... sorry everyone. But I think Ravin and I have paid our dues in this thread for long enough to get away with it









I guess I was unclear there--I increased vNB by 0.25v, not vdimm. 2.35v on these DIMMs would be madness without at least active cooling, at least on a work machine.

So considering the futuremark benches are a no-go for me on this rig (until I get fed up and switch to vista, anyway), which ones you wanna use? SuperPi 1M and 32M, and some SiSoft Sandra benches?


Lol yea...sorry about the thread jack. I think I came in around page 75 or so, and was definitely the first 3.0GHz stable quad here. Dues paid in full.









I got your SuperPi right here. I can run Sandra and report back soon. I'd like to see your Everest Cache and Memory benchmarks too. This is running my current settings 450x8 DDR 1128 4-5-5-15 2T PL6 ClockTwister: Moderate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I think some of the old guys of the thread deserve that







Ive had my E6420 at 3.66ghz but i reckon ive hit the limit my cpu can go.


Agreed, especially since so many of us went P5E/Maximus to replace the P5N-E. Nostalgia.


----------



## Asce

I love it how now i can run 4 DIMMS like im currently doing. 4 Sticks of Ballistixs at 1008mhz since 2 sticks are single sided







Now cant run them near the 1200mhz mark. I had a 1.07dhz OC from stock on the P5N-e. Could have gotten more with better memory but i replaced my board within a few days of getting my RAM. I still have the board which i will use in my next build but i may ditch the board and get a DFI Blood Iron instead. But i havent made my mind up, just depends on how much i spend building the case.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Lol yea...sorry about the thread jack. I think I came in around page 75 or so, and was definitely the first 3.0GHz stable quad here. Dues paid in full.









I got your SuperPi right here. I can run Sandra and report back soon. I'd like to see your Everest Cache and Memory benchmarks too. This is running my current settings 450x8 DDR 1128 4-5-5-15 2T PL6 ClockTwister: Moderate

Agreed, especially since so many of us went P5E/Maximus to replace the P5N-E. Nostalgia.

Can you show a current 1M one? I mean, I could post that screen too... but it's half a second faster than my current times, because I got it when I was at 460FSB









It's gonna be a bit until I can post mine, I've got way too much on plate today. Maybe I'll come in over the weekend and do 'em.... But I can already tell you'll smoke me on the RAM benches, since I'm at 900MHz CAS5. Maybe I'll try to run a 1.2 divider one last time...gonna have to juice up the RAM and NB a fair bit, and maybe loosen to CAS6









/me trots over to the IP35 pro thread to ask about max safe MCH voltage....

And to be fair, let's just stick with our respective stable OC's... I can't suicide run on this thing.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I love it how now i can run 4 DIMMS like im currently doing. 4 Sticks of Ballistixs at 1008mhz since 2 sticks are single sided







Now cant run them near the 1200mhz mark. I had a 1.07dhz OC from stock on the P5N-e. Could have gotten more with better memory but i replaced my board within a few days of getting my RAM. I still have the board which i will use in my next build but i may ditch the board and get a DFI Blood Iron instead. But i havent made my mind up, just depends on how much i spend building the case.

I've got 4 x 1GB running just fine on my P5N-E now







Or at least I did until one of the modules died, RMA should be arriving any day now....


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
I love it how now i can run 4 DIMMS like im currently doing. 4 Sticks of Ballistixs at 1008mhz since 2 sticks are single sided







Now cant run them near the 1200mhz mark.

You should check out the Kingston HyperX 4x1Gb kit I have.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Can you show a current 1M one?

It's gonna be a bit until I can post mine, I've got way too much on plate today.

And to be fair, let's just stick with our respective stable OC's... I can't suicide run on this thing.









Here ya go! Take your time, no rush. Agreed with staying at our respective stable 24/7 OCs, both of which are very respectable. Just cause I CAN push another 0.15V on my CPU and RAM does not mean I _should_ or _will_.

We gotta do something about your RAM though, perhaps you can pull 2 DIMMS and see if running 4Gb is any easier? I've never had problems using 4 DIMMs, but then again I've always opted for the lower density ICs instead of maxing out the platform(ie 4x1Gb if 8Gb is max, 4x512Mb if 4Gb is max).

BTW which benchies in Sandra? CPU arithmetic and multimedia, RAM bandwidth and latency? I'm using Sandra Lite XII.SP1


----------



## TriBeCa

Yeah... I could try pulling some RAM just to see, but I bought 8GB for a reason--some of the analyses I'll be doing on this rig need it. I'm trying to decide whether it's safe to go over 1.5v on the MCH with my current cooling, as I really suspect it's the MCH that's letting me down.... Part of the problem is that board goes straight from a 1.0 to 1.2 strap, so at my current CPU OC I'd have to get my poor PC6400 DIMMs stable at 1080. That's definately one thing I miss about the P5N-E, all those crazy dividers.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
I'm trying to decide whether it's safe to go over 1.5v on the MCH with my current cooling, as I really suspect it's the MCH that's letting me down.... Part of the problem is that board goes straight from a 1.0 to 1.2 strap, so at my current CPU OC I'd have to get my poor PC6400 DIMMs stable at 1080. That's definately one thing I miss about the P5N-E, all those crazy dividers.

Intel spec is 1.375V for both the P35 and X38. I've run my Maximus 24/7 for months @ 1.65VMCH, only recently since I stopped running CAS 3 did I decrease it. IMHO 1.5xV is perfectly safe for 24/7 use, provided you have adequate cooling.

BTW intel rates the P35 for 90C, same as the X38, with Tcase MAX of 106C. If you're under 80C, there is definitely no worries (I ran 65Cish for 1.65V)


----------



## TriBeCa

nice, the temp sensor that is *near* but not *on* my MCH idles at a whopping 28C at 1.48v... can't remember the load temp. I'm gonna try pushing it close to 1.6 and seeing if I can manage that 1.2 multi.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Intel spec is 1.375V for both the P35 and X38. I've run my Maximus 24/7 for months @ 1.65VMCH, only recently since I stopped running CAS 3 did I decrease it. IMHO 1.5xV is perfectly safe for 24/7 use, provided you have adequate cooling.

BTW intel rates the P35 for 90C, same as the X38, with Tcase MAX of 106C. If you're under 80C, there is definitely no worries (I ran 65Cish for 1.65V)









Only thing you really have to worry about is electron migration, but it sounds like yours survived.


----------



## TriBeCa

I couldn't post with 2.225vdimm and 1.64vNB with the 1.2 divider at 450FSB and 6-6-6-18 timings, so I don't think that divider's an option for me... might take 2 DIMMs out just to compare benchies with you if that'll post, since I know I can do the 1.2 divider at ~425FSB, but even the latency and bandwidth benchies in sandra don't do as well at that as they do at 1:1 425 FSB.

It's possible that my instability at 460FSB was due to not enough MCH voltage rather than vcore, so I might try higher vNB at 460FSB again. I wasn't stable at 460 with 1.3225vcore even though I've now tested stable with 1.2525vcore at 450. Suggests to me that either my chip tops out at 450, or vcore wasn't the problem....


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Only thing you really have to worry about is electron migration, but it sounds like yours survived.


Intel's models have EM starting near 1.80V and permanant instant damage above 1.9V. Several guys at XS have been running 1.6-1.7V months on end no problems too.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


I couldn't post with 2.225vdimm and 1.64vNB with the 1.2 divider at 450FSB and 6-6-6-18 timings, so I don't think that divider's an option for me... might take 2 DIMMs out just to compare benchies with you if that'll post, since I know I can do the 1.2 divider at ~425FSB, but even the latency and bandwidth benchies in sandra don't do as well at that as they do at 1:1 425 FSB.

It's possible that my instability at 460FSB was due to not enough MCH voltage rather than vcore, so I might try higher vNB at 460FSB again. I wasn't stable at 460 with 1.3225vcore even though I've now tested stable with 1.2525vcore at 450. Suggests to me that either my chip tops out at 450, or vcore wasn't the problem....


Man it's tough enough to get good clocks on 2Gb sticks, let alone 4 of them. IMHO 4x1 and 2x1 were identical and both easier to get better clocks/latency than 2x2, I'm sure 4x2 scales the same. I don't think you top at 450, no way if you only need 1.225V. Should be able to push 500FSB easy with 1.32V according to the scaling I've seen on the Q9XXXs


----------



## marsey99

450fsb would post for me on this board but i had to run 1gb stix to keep any stability.

i can do 1m in 10.9 now tho







i know this chip will go higher but my ram is now letting me down.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Man it's tough enough to get good clocks on 2Gb sticks, let alone 4 of them. IMHO 4x1 and 2x1 were identical and both easier to get better clocks/latency than 2x2, I'm sure 4x2 scales the same. I don't think you top at 450, no way if you only need 1.225V. Should be able to push 500FSB easy with 1.32V according to the scaling I've seen on the Q9XXXs


Hrrrm... you *really* think this chip can push 500FSB? That tempts me to bring in my dominators from home and see, since I already know they can pull off >1GHz on my p5n-e. I've gotta work now, but I'll come in on Saturday and see if some voltage tweaking can't get me a little further.

Do you have a link to anyone who's pulled that off on these chips? Xbit labs only got their q9300 up to 466.


----------



## SickStew

Will my New E7200 work in this motherboard.


----------



## SickStew

Plus i want to OC her to about 1450Mhz bus thats about 3.5 or 3.6 ghz


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Intel's models have EM starting near 1.80V and permanant instant damage above 1.9V. Several guys at XS have been running 1.6-1.7V months on end no problems too.


Interesting. Do you happen to know when EM starts on the 650i?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Hrrrm... you *really* think this chip can push 500FSB? 
Do you have a link to anyone who's pulled that off on these chips? Xbit labs only got their q9300 up to 466.


If your MCH holds out I think it's entirely possible. At least 475..... But then again IMHO once you start above 1.35Vcore on the 45nms it's risky territory. I'm not sure if the 45nmQs have been found to hit 500fsb, but definitely the Wollfdales DCs and Kentsfield DCs and QCs have so there is hope.


----------



## Ghostleader

TriBeCa and Ravin, hope you guys donÂ´t mind that I join your 24/7 super PI 1M race with my Rampage Rig.

I know this the ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i thread and donÂ´t have a quad but it could be nice to compare, Rampage Q6600, IP 35 Q9300 and Rampage E8400.

So hereÂ´s my 1M score


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostleader*


TriBeCa and Ravin, hope you guys donÂ´t mind that I join your 24/7 super PI 1M race with my Rampage Rig.

I know this the ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i thread and donÂ´t have a quad but it could be nice to compare, Rampage Q6600, IP 35 Q9300 and Rampage E8400.

So hereÂ´s my 1M score


Hey jump on in! Nice SuperPi time there- like I said, clock for clock the 45nm chips are indeed faster, looks like in this case 2 seconds faster.

Humor me and run your ram at my spec....


----------



## udihow

Hello (yes i'm new here)
I just wonder how do you guys here overclock this board?!?
I got this p5n-e and a e6600 but i cant get past ~2650mhz without the computer being totally unstable. it doesnt even boot at 2.8ghz, i got it to boot at 3.0ghz one time but it crashed just after the POST and that was with a too high vcore. I have tried everything, increasing the vcore and NB volt, tried about 150 different fsb's (if i my board has a FSB-hole, it seems to be eveywhere) and changed the cpu's multiplier. Tried 2.666ghz with 8x multiplier, windows booted but the pc wasnt stable at all. I would be happy if i could get it to 3ghz and with a temp under 70c, is this impossible??

btw what is the default vcore for E6600?

one more thing, i tried to make the computer start with the space-bar (some option in the bios) but that didnt work either (i moved the kbpower-thing on the board too)

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=24439

cheers


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teabag*


Hello (yes i'm new here)
I just wonder how do you guys here overclock this board?!?
I got this p5n-e and a e6600 but i cant get past ~2650mhz without the computer being totally unstable. it doesnt even boot at 2.8ghz, i got it to boot at 3.0ghz one time but it crashed just after the POST and that was with a too high vcore. I have tried everything, increasing the vcore and NB volt, tried about 150 different fsb's (if i my board has a FSB-hole, it seems to be eveywhere) and changed the cpu's multiplier. Tried 2.666ghz with 8x multiplier, windows booted but the pc wasnt stable at all. I would be happy if i could get it to 3ghz and with a temp under 70c, is this impossible??

btw what is the default vcore for E6600?

one more thing, i tried to make the computer start with the space-bar (some option in the bios) but that didnt work either (i moved the kbpower-thing on the board too)

http://www.overclock.net/system.php?i=24439

cheers


To find your default voltage, use CoreTemp, and VID is your default voltage (it varies from cpu to cpu).

Make sure you're fsb is unlinked in advanced>jumperfreeconfig>fsb (iirc) then you can adjust the cpu without touching the ram which could cause instability.

As you raise your speed, it may become unstable and then you will need to raise the voltage a knotch or two. 1.5v vcore is the absolute maximum, but watch your temps, try to keep it below 60C load. Raise your fsb in 20mhz increments and test with orthos for a few minutes after each raise, and then every 100mhz test for 1/2 hour.

Good luck!

Edit: Also make sure you set your ram timings manually for stability.


----------



## Ghostleader

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Hey jump on in! Nice SuperPi time there- like I said, clock for clock the 45nm chips are indeed faster, looks like in this case 2 seconds faster.

Humor me and run your ram at my spec....



Thank you

HereÂ´s a run with your ram spec, I had to push memspeed to 2,34







, so you have some good ram there Ravin, I have not tested for stability, just did this Super PI run.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostleader*


Thank you

HereÂ´s a run with your ram spec, I had to push memspeed to 2,34







, so you have some good ram there Ravin, I have not tested for stability, just did this Super PI run.
































I t40ug4t y0u 4ad 1200m4z ram.... 1128 s40uld be way under 2.34V 4 y0u????

sry b0ut t4e leet speac......ceyb0ard is 0n t4e blinc









Elpida J die 70nm 4TW!!!!!!!!


----------



## Ghostleader

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*























I t40ug4t y0u 4ad 1200m4z ram.... 1128 s40uld be way under 2.34V 4 y0u????

sry b0ut t4e leet speac......ceyb0ard is 0n t4e blinc









Elpida J die 70nm 4TW!!!!!!!!


Yes but not with cas 4, when I run 1200 5-5-5-15 itÂ´s about 2,26 2,28.


----------



## smizzoker

Yeah, i got no problem keep this at 2.66-2.69, once i get past 2.7 this become unstable. 2.7 will boot and no problem and fine with prime, but sometimes, shutdown hangs, 2.8 system will boot but getting blue screen right after it finishes loading windows. VID 1.3000 , I've up vcore to 1.35 / nb 1.39, but still get same results at 1.4vcore (but i dont think i need to be this high @2.8ghz do I?) set mem to 2.17v also. sorry very new at this.


----------



## udihow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
To find your default voltage, use CoreTemp, and VID is your default voltage (it varies from cpu to cpu).

Hm i seen that VID in coretemp but didnt know what it was, but ok, now i know.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Make sure you're fsb is unlinked in advanced>jumperfreeconfig>fsb (iirc) then you can adjust the cpu without touching the ram which could cause instability.

It's already at unlinked, 1126fsb and 813 ddr

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
As you raise your speed, it may become unstable and then you will need to raise the voltage a knotch or two. 1.5v vcore is the absolute maximum, but watch your temps, try to keep it below 60C load. Raise your fsb in 20mhz increments and test with orthos for a few minutes after each raise, and then every 100mhz test for 1/2 hour.

It isnt below 60c even at stock speed and it isnt stable at 2.8ghz even if i set vcore to 1.46. I think that's strange because i've seen other people with the same board and almost the same cpu (e4300) and they can get to 3.2 ghz with 1.28 in vcore, and 3.4+ with ~1.35v.

But i will test that 20mhz-thing anyway to see what happens.

Another strange thing is when i set the vcore for example at 1.3v, it shows up as 1.34 and 1.25 shows up as 1.29-1.3v... is that normal?? and with the +100mv option on it's even higher then i put it at.

it is OCCT stable for 5h at 2699mhz but i dont remember what vcore i had then.

Auto-vcore is 1.6v!?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Edit: Also make sure you set your ram timings manually for stability.

Already done that, 5-5-5-18-2T like the team group homepage said.

edit: ok, i got it stable for some minutes at 2.75ghz (orthos and vcore 1.34 = 1.39-1.4) but the temp was around 80c so i canceled the test. comments? if it's like this, i cant understand how others can get to 3ghz+ with ~1.30 in vcore.

stable for 15 minutes now @ 2.70ghz 1.345v, max loadtemp 72c

edit2:
reseated the heatsink and got 3 new load-temps,
orthos small fft-test = 56c
orthos blend-test = 48c
and CPU burn-in maximum heat generation-test = 44c
the vcore was stable at 1.344 (when set to 1.30), even under load


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostleader*


Yes but not with cas 4, when I run 1200 5-5-5-15 itÂ´s about 2,26 2,28.


maces me t4inc I can 4it 1200 cas5 at 2.20V







g0tta play wit4 my subtimings......


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *teabag* 
Hm i seen that VID in coretemp but didnt know what it was, but ok, now i know.

It's already at unlinked, 1126fsb and 813 ddr

It isnt below 60c even at stock speed and it isnt stable at 2.8ghz even if i set vcore to 1.46. I think that's strange because i've seen other people with the same board and almost the same cpu (e4300) and they can get to 3.2 ghz with 1.28 in vcore, and 3.4+ with ~1.35v.

But i will test that 20mhz-thing anyway to see what happens.

Another strange thing is when i set the vcore for example at 1.3v, it shows up as 1.34 and 1.25 shows up as 1.29-1.3v... is that normal?? and with the +100mv option on it's even higher then i put it at.

it is OCCT stable for 5h at 2699mhz but i dont remember what vcore i had then.

Auto-vcore is 1.6v!?

Already done that, 5-5-5-18-2T like the team group homepage said.

try setting your ram to 800 instead.
It's normal for your vcore set in bios to not correspond exactly with monitoring apps. Additionally you will notice that the vcore drops under load; that is known as vdroop, and it is normal.

Are you sure you seated your heatsink correctly? If you're exceeding 60Â°C at stock vcore, that's not good.

Try skipping over 2.8ghz and going to 2.9 or 3 with a little extra vcore. You could be in an fsb hole at 2.8.


----------



## Ghostleader

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
makes me think I can hit 1200 cas5 at 2.20V







gotta play with my subtimings......









Go for 1200 with cas5, I think you can do it.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *brandon6199* 
Just out of curiosity, what's the highest 24/7 overclock anyone has had with this board? And what's the highest overclock anyone has ever hit on this board?










I ran 485fsb for about 6 months...3.4ghz on an e6300


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *smizzoker* 
Yeah, i got no problem keep this at 2.66-2.69, once i get past 2.7 this become unstable. 2.7 will boot and no problem and fine with prime, but sometimes, shutdown hangs, 2.8 system will boot but getting blue screen right after it finishes loading windows. VID 1.3000 , I've up vcore to 1.35 / nb 1.39, but still get same results at 1.4vcore (but i dont think i need to be this high @2.8ghz do I?) set mem to 2.17v also. sorry very new at this.

I need 1.56v on my NB to get to 400 FSB. Probably you do too.... Just make sure you've reseated the stock cooler with AS5, as the stock TIM is garbage. As long as you've done that the chipset should be fine at those volts. I'm guessing that's your issue....

You and Teabag both might find it worthwhile to do some FSB overclocking to find the hole(s) in your board. Basically you just set your volts to the max you're willing to tolerate, turn down the CPU multi to 6x, and try different FSB's and see what can post. You can find more details in the P5N-E OCing guide in my sig.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 





















I t40ug4t y0u 4ad 1200m4z ram.... 1128 s40uld be way under 2.34V 4 y0u????

sry b0ut t4e leet speac......ceyb0ard is 0n t4e blinc









Elpida J die 70nm 4TW!!!!!!!!









this made me laugh so damn hard. I was like, *** happened to ravin???

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
I ran 485fsb for about 6 months...3.4ghz on an e6300

that's cause kopi is the leetsauce. I would be very surprised if anyone here has run anything higher than that for long.


----------



## Voo^

Anyone else found that if you take the board out, it randomly wont post anymore? Or any POST advice?


----------



## zemon

I want to buy a new heatsink for my northbridge, thinking of getting a thermaltake extreme spirit.
http://www.microdirect.co.uk/(15239)...r-CLC0034.aspx
I have a artic cooling freezer pro cooling my cpu, has anyone tried to use these two on the p5n-e as im worried they might not fit in together.


----------



## TriBeCa

Ok, here are my benchies at 460FSB 1:1. I can't seem to get stable any higher. I'm pretty sure it's my RAM holding me back... maybe some time in the next couple weeks I'll bring a pair of my dominators in from home and see if I can't push the chip further with them in.

*EDIT* -- After posting these benchies I did test stable with these settings, see here. The screeny looks funny 'cause I took it over a VNC connection--I wasn't able to be physically present to shut down the stress test. */EDIT*

(For those of you who haven't been following, this isn't on my sig rig.)

I'm not including Everest benches because I don't have the version you have to pay for... just the ancient version that was free, that's basically useless now.

I also haven't included the sandra hard disk benches, because my RAID array is currently checking for errors, which is destroying my usual read/write performance. I'll put those up in a couple days.

SuperPi 1M: 14.891s
SuperPi 32M: 14m 42.422s

SiSoft Sandra:

Processor Arithemetic:
54148 MIPS
45545 MFLOPS

Processor Multi-Media:
isSSE3 355225 it/s
isSE2 277778 it/s

Multi-Core Efficiency:
Inter-Core Bandwidth: 18711 MB/s
Inter-Core Latency: 27 ns

Cache and Memory:
Combined Index: 47031 MB/s
Speed Factor: 66.1

Memory Bandwidth:
Integer: 7623 MB/s
Floating Point: 7612 MB/s

Memory Latency:
Random Access: 81ns
Speed Factor: 91.7


----------



## bshidoheat

Hey guys I'm a first time builder and I chose this board, I believe i'm having memory issues and I wanted to know if I could use this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146560 as far as compatibility goes, if theres anything I can do to make this work or if possible you guys could recommend me something that'll work.

I'll keep reading this thread but in the meantime can someone post up any solutions?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bshidoheat* 
Hey guys I'm a first time builder and I chose this board, I believe i'm having memory issues and I wanted to know if I could use this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146560 as far as compatibility goes, if theres anything I can do to make this work or if possible you guys could recommend me something that'll work.

I'll keep reading this thread but in the meantime can someone post up any solutions?

Before you buy new stuff, make sure you enter your memory timings and voltage manually in the bios for stability. Then test with Memtest86 (bootable version) for a several hours to make sure it is a memory problem.

What memory are you using currently?


----------



## bshidoheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Before you buy new stuff, make sure you enter your memory timings and voltage manually in the bios for stability. Then test with Memtest86 (bootable version) for a several hours to make sure it is a memory problem.

What memory are you using currently?

I'm using this right now http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146560

should I update the bios?

edit: heres what happens, computer boots up, posts, begins to load windows, after it loads windows it blue screens or quickly flashes a bluescreen and either shows a black screen, or reboots.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bshidoheat* 
I'm using this right now http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820146560

should I update the bios?

Don't update the bios yet. What version are you currently running?

Make sure you enter your timings manually, and try setting the vdimm to 2.2v as that is what those sticks are designed for.


----------



## bshidoheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Don't update the bios yet. What version are you currently running?

Make sure you enter your timings manually, and try setting the vdimm to 2.2v as that is what those sticks are designed for.

Alright what I did was I set the timings to 4-4-4-12 (the first 4 options in the menu im assuming) and set the memory voltage to 2.25, no luck so far.


----------



## TriBeCa

set the MCH voltage to 1.39, if that doesn't work try 1.56v. If neither of those work, and you're still getting errors in memtest, call crucial as that RAM is supposed to work in this board.


----------



## bshidoheat

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
set the MCH voltage to 1.39, if that doesn't work try 1.56v. If neither of those work, and you're still getting errors in memtest, call crucial as that RAM is supposed to work in this board.

I'm really new at this so I'm not sure what im supposed to be looking for as far as MCH voltage goes.

edit: also when it blue screens it doesnt stay up, it flashes the error and reboots.
heres what I have for timings:

tCL (CAS LATENCY): 4
tRCD: 4
tRP: 4
tRAS: 12
Command Per Clock (CMD): 2 clock

for advanced memory everything is left as auto

now under jumperfree configuration under voltage control i have:
Memory Voltage: 2.259V

under FSB & Memory Config i have
FSB - Memory Clock Mode: [Linked]
FSB - Memory Ration: [1:1]
and FSB (QDR), MHz: [800]


----------



## TriBeCa

ahhh, sry. MCH (memory controller hub) is the NB (north bridge). so it's the NB voltage setting. on the board i've been using most recently they call that voltage setting the MCH voltage, so my terminology is a tad mixed up.


----------



## bshidoheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


ahhh, sry. MCH (memory controller hub) is the NB (north bridge). so it's the NB voltage setting. on the board i've been using most recently they call that voltage setting the MCH voltage, so my terminology is a tad mixed up.


alright, trying @ 1.39 .... bluescreen

trying @ 1.56 ... bluescreen crap

tried calling crucial and the recording asked me to wait until monday.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bshidoheat*


alright, trying @ 1.39 .... bluescreen

trying @ 1.56 ... bluescreen crap


how did you get windows installed? It's possible your windows install is messed up if you were able to install it without crashing...try booting memtest86.


----------



## bshidoheat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


how did you get windows installed? It's possible your windows install is messed up if you were able to install it without crashing...try booting memtest86.


i put my hdd into my friend's cpu and installed it on there. and where is memtest 86??


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bshidoheat*


i put my hdd into my friend's cpu and installed it on there. and where is memtest 86??


That's your problem. You can't install windows on another computer and expect it to work in a different one. Try reinstalling windows.

Here's memtest86
http://www.memtest.org/


----------



## marsey99

well unless its the same mobo/chipset...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


well unless its the same mobo/chipset...


true, I failed to mention that


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


that's cause kopi is the leetsauce. I would be very surprised if anyone here has run anything higher than that for long.


I'm going to suit up an HR-05 SLI and see how much more I can pull as soon as my P5K prem gets back from RMA.


----------



## bshidoheat

alright so heres a status update, when I came back from work I pulled out 1 of the sticks of corsair ballistix from the mobo, moved it from the black 1 slot to the yellow 1 spot (the slot closest to the mobo). The bluescreen error told me APCI.sys was missing when I tried reinstalling windows vista. And so I took it out, Put it in the black 4 slot and it proceded to load the vista installation files, as soon as the bar 'Windows is loading files...' finishes it bluescreens and gives the message .

just now I set everything to auto began to install windows got to 64% @ expanding files... then it blue screens and gives me BAD POOL HEADER right after I plug in an ethernet cable, gonna try again without touching a freakin thing.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


1) That silverstone case should be on the floor, it looks rediculous on a desk lol, so big.
2) Time to get a new keyboard and, my god boy, speakers!
3) Who needs a second 19" when you have a 46" rear projection right next to you











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


New keyboard?







You gotta be kidding?







I LOVE the ergonomic







- I'd only trade it in if it came in black!










Ok it took one year and the death of my keyboard Friday night, but I finally replased that old clunker. Yes, it's still a MS keyboard, but it is at least black this time.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*























I t40ug4t y0u 4ad 1200m4z ram.... 1128 s40uld be way under 2.34V 4 y0u????

sry b0ut t4e leet speac......ceyb0ard is 0n t4e blinc









Elpida J die 70nm 4TW!!!!!!!!


Translation: I thought you had 1200MHz sticks! 1128MHz should be under 2.34V for you! This settles in in my mind, you got the Micron D9 (probably GKX) version. My RAM and your RAM were originally spec to be identical for the PCB and ICs, yet I ended up with Elpidas. I am not disappointed.

Elpida J die 70nm ICs FTW!!!!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostleader*


Yes but not with cas 4, when I run 1200 5-5-5-15 itÂ´s about 2,26 2,28.


Wow. I only need 1.98V to hit 1128MHz at CAS5. These Elpidas scale well with little voltage!


----------



## Asce

Ravin where did you get your memory from.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*









 this made me laugh so damn hard. I was like, *** happened to ravin???


Half of the keys on the right hand side went out. I thought my board was just dirty or something, so I opened it to clean. Some of the traces looked to be heat damaged near the IC interface, but I cleaned it anyway just to see. Ended up it was just old and dead- I bought it when the first ergonomic keyboards hit the market something like 10-15 years ago. I took some pics and will write up a "how to:" thread soon (hint, it involves a dishwasher







).

I'll get those sandra scores up Tuesday afternoon or Wednesday morning. Right now my mom and wife's friends are in town for the wife's baby shower, so I have plenty of entertaining to do, plus it's too hot to run the rig during the day and I have to shut it down for the guests sleeping in the room at night.

Ambient indoor temps hit 80F yesterday, still with my zalman running full blast CPU was holding steady at 60C load. I'm not shutting down to keep my CPU cool, I am shtting down because I am getting to hot!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Ravin where did you get your memory from.


The goose that laid the golden Egg


----------



## TriBeCa

ouch... 80F ambients suck









fortunately my q9300 rig is in a well-AC'd office, so I don't have to worry about summer heat









fair warning--the memory and cache benchmark takes at least as long as the 32M superpi bench.

it's interesting that you outperform my 1M time, but I beat your 32M time. Care to speculate as to why? Obviously your RAM will be beating the pants off mine... is my chip making up for the poorer RAM performance on the longer bench?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


.....it's interesting that you outperform my 1M time, but I beat your 32M time. Care to speculate as to why? Obviously your RAM will be beating the pants off mine... is my chip making up for the poorer RAM performance on the longer bench?


IMHO it's gotta be the SSE4 instructions, seeing as it only shows up in the 32M. If it were RAM or L2 differences your 1M time should scale pretty close to how the 32M does. Improved instruciton sets usually rely on small gains per clock spread over larger numbers of cycles, where L2 adjustments would see a larger per clock boost and be beneficial to both short and long threads.


----------



## Ravin

CPU Arethmetic:
Dhrystone ALU- 61285MIPS; Whettstone iSSSE3 46405Mflops

CPU Multimedia:
Int 8x iSSSE3: 397554 iit/s; Float x4 iSSE2 215538 fit/s

Multicore Efficency:
Intercore bandwidth 21.48Gb/S; Intercore latency 24ns


----------



## Ravin

RAM Bandwidth: 8472Mb/s
Int Buff'd iSSE2: 8.26Mb/S; Float iSSE2 8.29GB/s

RAM latency: 63ns, speed factor 75.70

Cache and Memory: 53.60Gb/s


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
SuperPi 32M: 14m 42.422s

SiSoft Sandra:

Processor Multi-Media:
isSE2 277778 it/s


Here's where you win out with that 45nm. SuperPi 32M and iSSE2 ops.







Definetly due to improved SSE instrucitons.


----------



## TriBeCa

Yup... I got rolled pretty hard on the rest of those benchies :/

Now I really do wanna get some higher clocking RAM in here to see if I can catch up









But... work has to take priority.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Yup... I got rolled pretty hard on the rest of those benchies :/


I knew that would happen







I couldn't let my rig get trounced on it's first drag race.









Don't feel so bad- I've got you beat pretty good on the clock speed. I'm actually pretty impressed with that Q9300 after seeing the results from the higher multi 45nm quads. TBH for a 24/7 buisness server that needs 100% reliability those are some very impressive clocks and benches.

Rep+


----------



## TriBeCa

You don't happen to have a Matlab 2007b license for some strange reason, do you? Cause those are the benches that are closest to "real-world" benches for me (minus the two graphics ones). But I can't really compare this rig to others since nobody's gonna drop the 2 grand or w/e Matlab costs for a license just to run benches









Although I did compare it to the other machines in the lab and I *smoked* the 8-core Mac they bought... and of course this rig cost 1/3 of what that Mac did. Completing the FFT bench in 50% of the time it takes that mac felt pretty damn good


----------



## Purostaff

I've asked this question in another thread but never knew this thread existed. I wanted to make sure I'm not gradually frying anything on the board.









The question was what is the max *safe* voltage for VTT (FSB) and vNB (chipset)? The numbers I got were 1.35 for VTT and 1.60 for NB.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


The goose that laid the golden Egg


Grrrrr only found the 2Gb kit versions. Oh well my next RAM on the list.


----------



## TriBeCa

I run 1.56v 24/7 on the P5N-E NB, no sign of any trouble there with over a year at that voltage. I did replace the NB HS with an active cooler, mind you.

You can't set VTT on the P5N-E... unless I've been seriously missing something all this time.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


You don't happen to have a Matlab 2007b license for some strange reason, do you? Cause those are the benches that are closest to "real-world" benches for me (minus the two graphics ones). But I can't really compare this rig to others since nobody's gonna drop the 2 grand or w/e Matlab costs for a license just to run benches









Although I did compare it to the other machines in the lab and I *smoked* the 8-core Mac they bought... and of course this rig cost 1/3 of what that Mac did. Completing the FFT bench in 50% of the time it takes that mac felt pretty damn good










I may have a licence for the 1996 version- although I'd have to dig. I know that I have licenses and copies accessable for Fortran77 and Ada95 compilers. Maybe we can use something more common- like audio encoding. I'll try to find my volume licenses for Cool Edit 2000 and Pro, perhaps we can apply an effect to a given WAV file and time it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Grrrrr only found the 2Gb kit versions. Oh well my next RAM on the list.



That link should have went straight to the 4x1 kit. If you do a search for RAM and look under the 4x1Gb kits filter, there should only be 4-5 different models available.


----------



## Asce

Im from the UK, but thanks for the link anyways.


----------



## Ethereal PanMan

I just wanted to say hello to my fellow P5N-e owners!









I am very new to the technical side of computers, but I am trying to learn as much as I can. I had cyberpower build this rig for me and my previous computers were *clears throat* Dell.









The more I play around with my computer though, the more I wish I would have just built it myself. I am so tired thinking they did things wrong. At least if I build it and something goes wrong, it was me!

I have OC'd my CPU to 3.67, but I was using the case power supply and after having read that case power supplies suck, I ordered a new OCZ 600W from newegg and I have put all of my settings to stock until I receive it.

Thanks for starting this thread! I am sure I will be spending quite a lot of time going through all of the old posts.

Cheers!
~EPM~


----------



## KHORR

Hey guys







Just installed my brand new Zalman 9500 so I can continue 'clocking my cpu.

So far I have it running at 2.7ghz ( I have an E6300, C2D 1.86ghz ) and I'm still getting 48-50 degrees idling. Only thing I am wondering about is that I haven't touched my RAM or my voltages and I'm wondering whether I should. I've left my ram at 800mhz, or whatever it is, in the bios. Should I do anything with that? I'm also running 1.325 volts. Does any of that need to be changed to get better performance? I'm still pretty new at OC'ing.

Thanks


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


Hey guys







Just installed my brand new Zalman 9500 so I can continue 'clocking my cpu.

So far I have it running at 2.7ghz ( I have an E6300, C2D 1.86ghz ) and I'm still getting 48-50 degrees idling. Only thing I am wondering about is that I haven't touched my RAM or my voltages and I'm wondering whether I should. I've left my ram at 800mhz, or whatever it is, in the bios. Should I do anything with that? I'm also running 1.325 volts. Does any of that need to be changed to get better performance? I'm still pretty new at OC'ing.

Thanks










Seems a bit hot for that voltage. But what temp do you load at?


----------



## KHORR

When it's booting up you mean? I just turned my PC on now and it's sitting on 48-50 degrees


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
When it's booting up you mean? I just turned my PC on now and it's sitting on 48-50 degrees

lol I mean when you're in windows and you use a program such as Orthos or OCCT to stress test.


----------



## marsey99

whats your ambient temp too


----------



## AKSurprise

I'm fairly new to the OC scene, but have done small over clocks on weak pc's I've had in the past. This is my baby, and I want to make sure it lasts me at least a few more years, so I need some advice on what parts I should be getting to ensure a smooth experience. I'm looking to get this rig back in shape for some hardcore gaming, and I need to OC to prevent bottle-necking with the Video card (should I get a new vid card also?)

My PC:
CPU: Pentium D 805 (dual core) 2.66GHz
Mobo: Asus P5N-E SLI (obviously)
RAM: 2x 512K Kingston Value Ram
Vid Card: XFX 7600GT XXX Edition
Power Supply: 520wts
Case: Mid Tower
Cooling: CPU stock fan, 2x 80mm side intake fans, venting on top and rear

This rig is currently running idle at between 55Â°-60Â° (I know....way too hot) I'm looking for some moderately priced air coolers. Acceptable price range is between $50-$100, though cheaper price point/performance is desired. I was looking at the Cooler Master Hyper TX2, and the Scythe Ninja Mini, though I'm not certain either can perform to my needs. Any other recommendations?

With the above mentioned coolers or any of your recommended, what kind of overclock do you think is possible? My goal is anywhere between 3.4-3.8GHz, if anyone doesn't know about this CPU yet there's more about that here:http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...ores,1253.html

Lastly how much, and what kind of RAM should I pair with this?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
lol I mean when you're in windows and you use a program such as Orthos or OCCT to stress test.

In Prime95 it runs at around 55-57 for the first few minutes, I haven't done any thorough stressing yet but it's been under 60 as far as I know.


----------



## marsey99

ak have a look at the ocz vendetta 2, great cooling for its price.

not sure tbh how far you will be able to push the 805 but i would imagine you will run out of stable powre delivery from the board before other things become an issue.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


In Prime95 it runs at around 55-57 for the first few minutes, I haven't done any thorough stressing yet but it's been under 60 as far as I know.


That's pretty high but it is safe. Try reseating your cooler.

Edit: Like marsey asked, what are you ambients?


----------



## udihow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teabag*


edit: ok, i got it stable for some minutes at 2.75ghz (orthos and vcore 1.34 = 1.39-1.4) but the temp was around 80c so i canceled the test. comments? if it's like this, i cant understand how others can get to 3ghz+ with ~1.30 in vcore.
stable for 15 minutes now @ 2.70ghz 1.345v, max loadtemp 72c
edit2:
reseated the heatsink and got 3 new load-temps, 
orthos small fft-test = 56c
orthos blend-test = 48c 
and CPU burn-in maximum heat generation-test = 44c
the vcore was stable at 1.344 (when set to 1.30), even under load



Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


You and Teabag both might find it worthwhile to do some FSB overclocking to find the hole(s) in your board. Basically you just set your volts to the max you're willing to tolerate, turn down the CPU multi to 6x, and try different FSB's and see what can post. You can find more details in the P5N-E OCing guide in my sig.


The specs says that the board is made for 1333mhz fsb, but when i set it at that it doesnt want to post. I tried 1400, 1425 and 1450fsb but it posts ~1 of 3 times and only if i set the cpu multi to 6x. What am i doing wrong!?


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


That's pretty high but it is safe. Try reseating your cooler.


By reseating, do you mean take my cpu cooler off and put it back on?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Edit: Like marsey asked, what are you ambients?


According to SpeedFan My HDD's are running at mid 30's, I'm not sure what the other temps mean. I'll host a pic.










*EDIT:* Also, I'm considering getting a new new cpu and psu, but I'm not sure of what I was should be looking for. Anyone have any good recommendations for medium-range budget? I was thinking of getting a quad core but apparently they aren't too crash hot for gaming. Can anyone else back this up? I'm also running XP, so I don't know if getting a quad will be worth it.

I do want a modular psu though.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


By reseating, do you mean take my cpu cooler off and put it back on?

yes. With a new application of thermal paste of course, and make sure that it is snug.

According to SpeedFan My HDD's are running at mid 30's, I'm not sure what the other temps mean. I'll host a pic.










*EDIT:* Also, I'm considering getting a new new cpu and psu, but I'm not sure of what I was should be looking for. Anyone have any good recommendations for medium-range budget? I was thinking of getting a quad core but apparently they aren't too crash hot for gaming. Can anyone else back this up? I'm also running XP, so I don't know if getting a quad will be worth it.

I do want a modular psu though.


I love my Corsair 520hx--dead silent, modular, not terribly pricey.

Quad cores are fine for gaming, the games aren't optimized for 4 cores yet tho. A dual and a quad at the same clock speed will perform about the same in games. However, with this board it is not recommendable to get a quad if you want to OC it past 3ghz.

The e8400 is a good choice for a dual core. Low heat output, very overclockable.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I love my Corsair 520hx--dead silent, modular, not terribly pricey.

Quad cores are fine for gaming, the games aren't optimized for 4 cores yet tho. A dual and a quad at the same clock speed will perform about the same in games. However, with this board it is not recommendable to get a quad if you want to OC it past 3ghz.

The e8400 is a good choice for a dual core. Low heat output, very overclockable.


Cool thanks for your advice









What do you think of my temps/volts etc in the pic?


----------



## SickStew

Hi i've just installed a E7200 and updated my BIOS to the New 1002 from the Asus Site. But when i load up CPUZ i've only got 1 core and 1 thread

Why could this be do I need to downgrade my BIOS please Help


----------



## SickStew

I've try downgrading my bios to 906 and it has no diff effect

I'm just waiting for Asus to release a non beta bios version 1002 this should hopefully solve my problem.


----------



## Rapid_Eraser

This last bios 1002 (just like the 0608) seems to do pretty well with my Q6600 B3 [email protected],32v, ppl with Q6600 should give it a try.


----------



## blackar7s

hi i want to upgrade the cooling of the nb and i have the zalman 9700. i want to put the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the nb. will it fit.

thanks, also i wouldnt mind if you could tell me if i buy a sb cooler will it fit with my 8800gtx


----------



## SickStew

Oh but the lastest bios is only beta version which means a testing platform. I want them to release a non beta version that might solve my little problem


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


Cool thanks for your advice









What do you think of my temps/volts etc in the pic?


What temp is it in your house? Ambients have a huge effect on temperatures in computers. The volts look ok for the processor, but the temps seem a little high...but maybe not if you have a really hot house.


----------



## zemon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackar7s* 
hi i want to upgrade the cooling of the nb and i have the zalman 9700. i want to put the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the nb. will it fit.

Just installed a thermaltake extreme on my northbridge it fitted in easy with my artic cooling freezer pro 7, if that helps.


----------



## blackar7s

thanks theat gives me a rough idea

+ any idea bout the 8800gtx and sb

i give u rep ok


----------



## TriBeCa

the extreme spirit II fits with a TRUE, so I imagine it'll fit with your cooler


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackar7s* 
thanks theat gives me a rough idea

+ any idea bout the 8800gtx and sb

i give u rep ok

The Cooler Master Blue Ice works for the sb if you use the hs only. I recommend a thermal adhesive tho, as the included adhesive is not up to par. Arctic Alumina Epoxy is what I used. Just don't put a thick amount on other wise it will hit your gfx card.

And for the nb, the Thermalright HR-05 is a good choice. I'm not sure about clearance with the Freezer Pro, but it the Thermaltake spirit works I imagine the HR05 would work.


----------



## TriBeCa

hey guys... my p5n-e died on me yesterday. I'm gonna RMA it, but I want a new board... this one's died on me one too many times (the replacement will be my 5th board in 14 months). If you've got any recommendations, please drop 'em on the thread I started.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
What temp is it in your house? Ambients have a huge effect on temperatures in computers. The volts look ok for the processor, but the temps seem a little high...but maybe not if you have a really hot house.

Omg you are going to laugh, but me and my dad put my cpu cooler in the _wrong way._ I took it out and put it back in the proper way and my temps dropped down to mid 30's idling. Almost as embarrasing as that time I thought I broke my pc because it wouldn't turn on, when I realised I didn't plug my cpu power back in...









But anyway my temps have dropped a lot and I'm stress testing now, seems to be running around mid 40's under load.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
Omg you are going to laugh, but me and my dad put my cpu cooler in the _wrong way._ I took it out and put it back in the proper way and my temps dropped down to mid 30's idling. Almost as embarrasing as that time I thought I broke my pc because it wouldn't turn on, when I realised I didn't plug my cpu power back in...









But anyway my temps have dropped a lot and I'm stress testing now, seems to be running around mid 40's under load.

lol much better. Glad it worked out









do you have pics?


----------



## KHORR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
lol much better. Glad it worked out









do you have pics?

Pics of my rig or pics of my temps?

Also, I'm probably going to buy this PSU: Zalman 600w Modular


----------



## SickStew

This board is bad for running the new E7200 & E7300. I'm really annoyed that i have to wait for asus to release a new Bios before I can benefit from both my cores









Could any of you advise on this problem


----------



## KHORR

Thought I'd post a pic of my rig anyways











New CPU cooler in place with my LED's and 8800GT


----------



## SickStew

What is the max QDR you can take this board to i have got it to QDR 1480mhz can i take it any more

but i run my system on 1400 QDR


----------



## TriBeCa

kopi had his over 1900, but most people can't achieve that. Unfortunately the chipset is full of holes in the 1600 to 1900 range, so there'll be some speeds in that range you can get and some you can't.


----------



## SickStew

so it can achieve 1600 QDR cool man that 3.8ghz on my CPU. I was hoping to get it to 3.5 - 3.6 which is 1500 QDR will i do any damage to my motherboard if a raise it to high.

I was to scared to push it passed 1480QDR


----------



## SickStew

I just push passed 1500 QDR but i need to run prime small fft test and then a full 8 hour test to see if she is stable.


----------



## Kopi

I have an e8400 on the way and my P5K premium is on RMA.

BIOS 0608 work for this chip?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SickStew* 
I just push passed 1500 QDR but i need to run prime small fft test and then a full 8 hour test to see if she is stable.

1600 should be no problem, as long as your chip can take that speed and your particular board doesn't have a hole there. if you run into trouble i'd highly recommend some FSB OCing just to see what you can post at (put your CPU multi at minimum and see where you can post).

You may have to run 1.56v on the NB to get it though--make sure you have adequate cooling (at minimum reseat the HS with a decent thermal paste rather than the stock cooler, and preferably have a side intake fan pointed at it).


----------



## SickStew

The chip can take well over 4.0ghz which is about 1650 - 1700QDR so my chip is ok to take it. but i want her stable at 3.6 - 3.7 ghz i would be happy with that.

P.S i'm happy with what i'm achieveing now







1 ghz higher than stock


----------



## SickStew

I've just finish a small fft's stress test and it passed. my temps where 49C so i've 6C to

E7200
3562mhz
Core Temp: 49C
V-Core: 1.22 - 1.26

Time to bump her to 3.6ghz and keep the V-Core the same if i can


----------



## KHORR

Just bought this 750w Zalman PSU for 200 bucks delivered. Thought that was pretty good, and I'm tired of not having module psu. Plus I'm only running a 430w atm


----------



## marsey99

kopi i had to use 0901 to get my my 8200 working but i was on 0401 before that.

stew you should be able to get around the 1800 (450) fsb mark m8 if you realy want to push that chip.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


Just bought this 750w Zalman PSU for 200 bucks delivered. Thought that was pretty good, and I'm tired of not having module psu. Plus I'm only running a 430w atm










It will be great, just look at the PSU ive got







.

Tribs hows the board hunt going?


----------



## TriBeCa

Got a DFI P35-T2RS on the way from the egg. It'll probably get here after I've left town for a week, so I'll report back with my rebuild in a week and a half or so


----------



## SickStew

I had some problems with pushing pass 1510 QDR. Bios had to do a quick update. but when i booted to Windows it took ages. So i'm going to reinstall windows from boot up.

P.S. I bloody hate Windows XP Home. it only notices one core i'm going to upgrade to Vista 64bit that will notice both cores


----------



## SickStew

ThanksNB cooling which is the best? I will re seat my NB with so Strike Paste. but can i get some different cooling for it


----------



## KHORR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
It will be great, just look at the PSU ive got







.

Awesome







I can't wait for mine. Bring on the modular! So sick of the crappy coloured wires all through my case.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SickStew* 
ThanksNB cooling which is the best? I will re seat my NB with so Strike Paste. but can i get some different cooling for it

Strike Paste? Not sure what that is... I'd really recommend something from Arctic Silver. There's a few other TIMs out there that are competitive, but AS5 is tried and true, and outperforms most other TIMs by like 5C when properly applied.

As for a new NB cooler, I'm really happy with my Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II. And it'll fit with virtually any CPU cooler, even the monstrously large TRUE.


----------



## marsey99

the best standalone chipset cooler you can buy,
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...7&lng=en&set=1

as for thermal paste, well tri is spot on that as5 is the tried and tested but mx-2, tx-2 and ocz freeze can all give better results if they are propperly applied, but we are only talking 1 or 2c difference. the main reason i would go with those 3 over as5 is they are non conductive, now i know its not a big deal if you are carefull but accidents do happen so bear that in mind when putting silver paste onto anything as it will cause shorts if your not carfull.

tbh tho i would reccomend any of those 4 with mx-2 being a personal fave (great temps, east to use and nonconductive being the reasons) of mine but due to running out im currently using as5, lol.

@sickstew

if windoze only sees 1 core after the upgrade you want to reinstall anyway m8, doesnt matter which you reinstall as they will all see both cores, you will want 64bit you plan to use more than 4gb ram.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
the best standalone chipset cooler you can buy,
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...7&lng=en&set=1

as for thermal paste, well tri is spot on that as5 is the tried and tested but mx-2, tx-2 and ocz freeze can all give better results if they are propperly applied, but we are only talking 1 or 2c difference. the main reason i would go with those 3 over as5 is they are non conductive, now i know its not a big deal if you are carefull but accidents do happen so bear that in mind when putting silver paste onto anything as it will cause shorts if your not carfull.

tbh tho i would reccomend any of those 4 with mx-2 being a personal fave (great temps, east to use and nonconductive being the reasons) of mine but due to running out im currently using as5, lol.

@sickstew

if windoze only sees 1 core after the upgrade you want to reinstall anyway m8, doesnt matter which you reinstall as they will all see both cores, you will want 64bit you plan to use more than 4gb ram.

AS5 is not conductive--people just often think it is because many/most other silver compounds are.

It is very slightly capacitive and can cause temporary electrical problems if it bridges a connection. However if it is subsequently cleaned up functioning should return to normal. As it is not conductive it _can not_ cause electrical shorts. All it can do is store charge that should be going somewhere else.

source


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SickStew*


P.S. I bloody hate Windows XP Home. it only notices one core i'm going to upgrade to Vista 64bit that will notice both cores


Not quite. Windows XP will support 2 cores if you have it completely updated with the latest patches. This I know because i have 3 computers + 1 i built for a customer that are dual core and run on windows xp. One even runs on XP Home. They all utilize both cores. If you really want to upgrade go with XP Pro.

What XP WILL NOT support fully is the quad cores.


----------



## marsey99

its like saying its not wet its moist,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *source*
could potentially cause problems i it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths

99.9% silver, wont short a circuit? silicon based paste wont cause a problem if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths other than sharing their heat out.

like i said, im using as5 on mine but i wouldnt recommend it to everyone as it has its risks.


----------



## SickStew

I've got Windows Vista Home Prem 32 bit coming tomorrow. i'll upgrade to 64 when i do my next big upgrade. The reason i went for 32 bit is because alot of games do not need no more than 3 gb ram. Ifi was Video encoding and stuff like that i would of got 64 bit and uped my ram to 4 gb but I use my PC for Gaming, Watching DVD's & Internet that is all.

I'll just wait for Vista and do the installaition from Windows.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


its like saying its not wet its moist,

99.9% silver, wont short a circuit? silicon based paste wont cause a problem if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths other than sharing their heat out.

like i said, im using as5 on mine but i wouldnt recommend it to everyone as it has its risks.


Once I get my hands on a multimeter (soon) i'll bridge the leads with AS5 and report back. I'm inclined to believe Arctic Silver isn't lying that it's not conductive, though.

In most cases capacitance won't be an issue. The only problem is that the AS5 would store some charge, which might draw that charge from a component that needs it and cause 'problems', but not a short.

If you're really scared of it, use arctic ceramique... but it's pretty hard to bridge a connection with AS5 and not notice that you've done it.


----------



## lookitznite

Hey guys I'm new to overclocking. I just barely bought and built my pc. I was wondering if anyone out there can help me overclock my pc. I don't want to OC it too much where it would be unstable. I just want like maybe a 3.2 or so. This is my motherboard and cpu I have.

ASUS P5N-E SLI 775 nVidia 650i
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131142

Intel quadcore q6600 Core2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115017

Corsair ddr2 800 4gb ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145176

700watt psu
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817121025

reserator XT just currently cooling CPU atm.

I'm a complete noobie, can someone walk me through and tell me what to change please?


----------



## marsey99

if you look back a fwe pages the guys have a link in their sig to a guide for that setup


----------



## TriBeCa

There's a link in my sig for OCing on this board, but it was written before the q6600 processors became common. Unfortunately, you've got a bad MB/CPU combo for OCing, as the P5N-E can't get your CPU anywhere near what it's capable of because of power management issues. You can try following my guide, but don't be surprised if you top out somewhere around 2.8 GHz.


----------



## mcogan10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


There's a link in my sig for OCing on this board, but it was written before the q6600 processors became common. Unfortunately, you've got a bad MB/CPU combo for OCing, as the P5N-E can't get your CPU anywhere near what it's capable of because of power management issues. You can try following my guide, but don't be surprised if you top out somewhere around 2.8 GHz.


Agreed...the P5N is not a quad-clocker's board...

@ Tribeca: your 6400 really eats up the voltage! I didn't even have to go that high for 3.6....


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lookitznite* 
Hey guys I'm new to overclocking. I just barely bought and built my pc. I was wondering if anyone out there can help me overclock my pc. I don't want to OC it too much where it would be unstable. I just want like maybe a 3.2 or so. This is my motherboard and cpu I have.

ASUS P5N-E SLI 775 nVidia 650i
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131142

Intel quadcore q6600 Core2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115017

Corsair ddr2 800 4gb ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145176

700watt psu
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817121025

reserator XT just currently cooling CPU atm.

I'm a complete noobie, can someone walk me through and tell me what to change please?

Actually it is a matter of having the right BIOS not the voltages. Follow the guide in my sig COMPLETELY. It will help you achieve 3ghz. That is the best this rig will do. Once you have got the OC please REP diddler1979 for the excellent guide.

At this moment 12 people have achieved 3ghz with the quad on this board because of that guide. The only complications that will exist is if you use vista 64-bit and do not have an IDE disc drive.

Enjoy your OC!!


----------



## lookitznite

uh oh, I use vista 64bit and one of my HDD is IDE. It don't nessarily have to be 3.0ghz , I just want like 2.8 or something. just to say I overclock it







Alright I will read those links. thanks for the help guys. much appreciated it!


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


Agreed...the P5N is not a quad-clocker's board...

@ Tribeca: your 6400 really eats up the voltage! I didn't even have to go that high for 3.6....


Tell me about it.... Are you saying you got 3.6GHz on your e6400? Did you manage that on a P5N-E? I'm switching to a DFI P35 board very soon, and am hoping I'll be able to reduce the vcore.... The droop I get at that vcore is close to 0.1v under load


----------



## mcogan10

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Tell me about it.... Are you saying you got 3.6GHz on your e6400? Did you manage that on a P5N-E? I'm switching to a DFI P35 board very soon, and am hoping I'll be able to reduce the vcore.... The droop I get at that vcore is close to 0.1v under load









yeah bro...validation's in the sig! I had it stable at 3.4G at good temps, but I got this board to do 462 fsb (3.7G), although it wasn't stable.


----------



## Asce

No fair been trying for 3.7 but its been upstable. And Trib i use less Vcore then you to hit that speed. 1.49v in bios.


----------



## marsey99

you got a nice board there mc, mine wouldnt do more than 440 100% stable and if you check my sig i know the chip would.


----------



## mcogan10

yeah...462 is more than enough, hell I only use 400 for 24/7 use.


----------



## marsey99

not for my new chip its not









i run 7x500 now


----------



## SickStew

I only run @ 1500 QDR / 375 x 9.5 = 3.56 Ghz

I want to push it more but i will when i get Vista installed

1600 QDR / 400 x 9.5 = 3.8 Ghz now that would be a *DREAM*


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrQ*


The only complications that will exist is if you use vista 64-bit and do not have an IDE disc drive.

Enjoy your OC!!


Vista 64 shouldn't be a problem. I'm running it perfectly at 3.0Ghz.

I've since started lapping the Q6600 but I think I need to go a bit more as the temp changes haven't been what I was hoping for. Might try again over the weekend to get that mirror shine.


----------



## SickStew

is here any NB & mosfet heatsink and cooling for this board.


----------



## stucknnola

Howdie all,

My machine was working great. Setup a dual boot with XP Pro on my 160gb drive and Vista Ultimate 32 on my 500gb drive in a dual boot setup. She was running perfectly and I was loving it.







Randomly my keyboard would not register on reboot-hit reset and no problem. Oddly it never gave me a "no keyboard" detected error regardless of whether or not the keyboard not worked at Vista login.

Currently have a few issues going on that I need help with.

Problem 1:

Today I decided I wanted to turn off my XP drive and see if the machine would single boot Vista without problems. I went into the bios, 0701 at the time I think, and set SATA 1 so that it was off. (That is what I thought I did at least.) Saved the settings and rebooted. The machine posted and then gives me "DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER." I then went back into the bios and reset the SATA 1 so that it was on, then saved and rebooted. Same problem. Went into bios and reset default settings&#8230; same problem&#8230; not sure if my memory timings changed with the reset to default or not now that I think of it.

The only way my machine will boot is to have the Vista disk in the drive. I do not need to boot from disk, it just needs to be there.

In the middle of this I flashed the bios to 1002, not sure if that was a good idea in retrospect. I had hoped that the new bios would solve my problem, but it did not. I still need the Vista disk in my disk drive to boot, still don't need to boot from disk.

I tried disconnecting my XP drive and not having the Vista disk in &#8230;"DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER." At that point I needed to go to work&#8230; why I decide to do these things in the 30 minutes before I go to work is beyond me&#8230; before I left for work I reconnected the XP drive and booted with my Vista disk in without difficulty.

Also now when I try to boot into XP my keyboard will not function so I can't login.

Not sure if this will help, but before this change my machine was Prime95 stable for 24 hours without errors.

Does anyone have an idea of what is causing this problem and how I can fix it?

Problem 2:

Ever since setting up my dual boot my OC settings don't show in Vista with CPU-Z. I am new to OCing so I just used the AI OC setting in the bios without problem. I realize that I should have booted into XP and see if the setting showed in CPU-Z or not, but for unknown reasons I never got around to it.

I am not sure if this is a CPU-Z problem or a Vista problem or a dual boot problem&#8230; regardless I think fixing number one should come first. Not even sure if the OC is working, because I don't know if CPU-Z is showing me the correct data.

Thanks in advance.

g


----------



## salphire

Hello..i want to change my cpu cooler...can someone tell me if the Thermal Right 120 extreme fit with the motherboard..I currently used the artic cooler 7 pro...

Thanks..


----------



## SickStew

Hi

Chipset Drivers for Vista

I've just downloaded new chipset drivers for vista does this work ok?

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us


----------



## mack728

Hello all. I have a question on OCing my P5N-E SLI with a Q6600 Quad Core 2.4MHZ CPU.
I recently updated my BIOS from rev. 0703 to a 0901 to try to see if I could get some success in OCing of which I had none. As I've been seeing in these forums this MB and CPU combo are not real condusive to very high OC's, 3.0 MHZ is pretty much it in most cases. I've been attempting to down grade my BIOS to 0603 using the guide posted by *diddler1979*. I believe I created my boot CD correctly but when I reboot the screen I get is just a blank screen with a flashing cursor that will not allow me to enter any information. I wait for a period of time before I abort my attempt. The first time I tried it, it blew right past post and started loading Windows (I did change my boot seqenence to CDROM 1st) The only way I got that to stop was to disable all my other drives, that's when it hung-up at the blank screen. Has any one here use this guide and had success and could offer any thougts as to what my problem might be?

This is what I have on the bootalbe CD; 
0608 BIN file, 0703 BIN file, 0803 BIN file, 0901 BIN file, FLASHCD UltraISO file, AWDFLASH.exe

Does this look correct?


----------



## stucknnola

Yeah new chipset driver helped. other problem I had was my XP drive had the boot file on it so when I turned it off vista got pissy.

I ended up formating both HDs and installing just Vista. She runs great now, but I still have the second problem from my earlier post.

CPU-z never shows me as being overclocked despite OCing in the bios. I don't know if I am actually OC'd and it just isn't showing or if I'm not OC'd.

Any one have an idea as to what is going on?

G


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
Yeah new chipset driver helped. other problem I had was my XP drive had the boot file on it so when I turned it off vista got pissy.

I ended up formating both HDs and installing just Vista. She runs great now, but I still have the second problem from my earlier post.

CPU-z never shows me as being overclocked despite OCing in the bios. I don't know if I am actually OC'd and it just isn't showing or if I'm not OC'd.

Any one have an idea as to what is going on?

G

Disable the intel power saving features in the bios in the cpu options. (like EIST). They could be throttling your speeds while idle.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mack728* 
Hello all. I have a question on OCing my P5N-E SLI with a Q6600 Quad Core 2.4MHZ CPU.
I recently updated my BIOS from rev. 0703 to a 0901 to try to see if I could get some success in OCing of which I had none. As I've been seeing in these forums this MB and CPU combo are not real condusive to very high OC's, 3.0 MHZ is pretty much it in most cases. I've been attempting to down grade my BIOS to 0603 using the guide posted by *diddler1979*. I believe I created my boot CD correctly but when I reboot the screen I get is just a blank screen with a flashing cursor that will not allow me to enter any information. I wait for a period of time before I abort my attempt. The first time I tried it, it blew right past post and started loading Windows (I did change my boot seqenence to CDROM 1st) The only way I got that to stop was to disable all my other drives, that's when it hung-up at the blank screen. Has any one here use this guide and had success and could offer any thougts as to what my problem might be?

This is what I have on the bootalbe CD;
0608 BIN file, 0703 BIN file, 0803 BIN file, 0901 BIN file, FLASHCD UltraISO file, AWDFLASH.exe

Does this look correct?

What type of drive are you using? If it is IDE (wide flat cable) it will work. Sata (small thin cable) doesn't seem to work for this process.


----------



## stucknnola

I went into the bios and the intel power saving "speed step" was already off. I set to AI Overclocking 20% which had worked perfectly on this same hardware in XP before and still don't see anything but stock on cpu-z. No idea what is going on.

I don't have XP loaded any more so I can't check to see if it OC's with same bios settings there.

Any more thoughts?

g


----------



## marsey99

you sure your saving the bios?


----------



## ProfQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *salphire* 
Hello..i want to change my cpu cooler...can someone tell me if the Thermal Right 120 extreme fit with the motherboard..I currently used the artic cooler 7 pro...

Thanks..

Hi,
The Thermalright 120 should fit perfectly. It might be a good idea to get a PWM 120mm fan for it, so you can let the MB control its speed automatically.

Currently I'm not using one, 'cause the Zalman 9700NT I have installed was a gift from my wife. But I did buy a Thermalright 120 Extreme hoping to do the swap, but the Zalman has kept on kicking.
Cheers,


----------



## salphire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ProfQ* 
Hi,
The Thermalright 120 should fit perfectly. It might be a good idea to get a PWM 120mm fan for it, so you can let the MB control its speed automatically.

Currently I'm not using one, 'cause the Zalman 9700NT I have installed was a gift from my wife. But I did buy a Thermalright 120 Extreme hoping to do the swap, but the Zalman has kept on kicking.
Cheers,

Ok..thx for the reply...I really appreciate it.. concern with the MB space...even the artic cooler have some difficulty...have to arrange the fan to face the wrong way...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
I went into the bios and the intel power saving "speed step" was already off. I set to AI Overclocking 20% which had worked perfectly on this same hardware in XP before and still don't see anything but stock on cpu-z. No idea what is going on.

I don't have XP loaded any more so I can't check to see if it OC's with same bios settings there.

Any more thoughts?

g

try using the latest version of cpu-z maybe? I think it's at 1.45 now.
When you boot what clocks do the post messages tell you?


----------



## stucknnola

- I am using the newest CPU-Z
- The settings are saved at 20% AI OC
- The boot message shows 2.66 mHz, 2 cores, and identifies my RAM correctly. I am not sure if that is what you wanted.

The fun continues... I'm going to try different OC settings and see if they show up.

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
- I am using the newest CPU-Z
- The settings are saved at 20% AI OC
- The boot message shows 2.66 mHz, 2 cores, and identifies my RAM correctly. I am not sure if that is what you wanted.

The fun continues... I'm going to try different OC settings and see if they show up.

g

hmm...try manually overclocking instead. Your ram could be holding you back with AI OC.

edit: nevermind, I thought you were having issues with your oc. Make sure you've turned off all energy saving options for the processor.


----------



## stucknnola

Well, the AI overclocking was my problem - manual OC works fine, but man my temps sky rocket with prime95 - 75 degrees after about 30 seconds.... I don't think that is good. I'm guessing my stock cooling (other than case fans) is going to need an upgrade before I really work this.

Thanks for the help. If there are any simple cooling tips feel free to throw them my way.

thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
Well, the AI overclocking was my problem - manual OC works fine, but man my temps sky rocket with prime95 - 75 degrees after about 30 seconds.... I don't think that is good. I'm guessing my stock cooling (other than case fans) is going to need an upgrade before I really work this.

Thanks for the help. If there are any simple cooling tips feel free to throw them my way.

thanks,

g

manually setting your voltage will help. Auto vcore can set it ridiculously high.


----------



## stucknnola

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


manually setting your voltage will help. Auto vcore can set it ridiculously high.


I turned my voltage down to 1.35 and she runs fine. With Prime my core temps over 3 minutes get to 72 and sit there no errors after 15 minutes. 72 is my CPUs max. Considering that I have completely stock cooling, no arctic silver or similar, is this just the way it is or should I get some arctic silver or similar and use stock fan or silver + new fan or keep PC in ice chest.....

thanks,

g


----------



## Kopi

The little board that could.

e8400 waits for P5K premium to arrive back from RMA...so, it gets a trip into the P5N-e SLI with 1002 bios.

Woohoo boots up fine. Lets try 3.6ghz?

A OK!

3.6ghz seems great at 1.275v


----------



## SickStew

Bio 1002 willn't ditect 2 cores on my E7200 I can overclock and everything just will not detect two cores









But Bio 804 or something will detect two cores but not the CPU









Upgrade part coming soon (check out spec







)


----------



## stucknnola

First, thanks to everyone on this page/board/site for helping me learn how to OC.









Today was my first day actually OCing, not the AI stuff. I went through the "find your FSB hole" protocol from the first post. I never failed to post, but I did get either BSOD or hang or error hardware failure or error on one core with Prime.

(LDT 1 and Multiplier 6)
The highest I got was FSB 1750 but despite upping Vcore from 1.375 to 1.4375 in increments and increasing NB to 1.563 I just couldn't get her to pass Prime.

(LDT 5 and Multiplier 8)
Running great at FSB 1700, Vcore 1.375, and NB 1.393. A little hot, but if not doing a stress test no problems.

I still would like to get some better cooling, because I know I'm going to want to see how much more I can get out of her. I don't want to go the water cool route.

I plan on getting some AS5 for what ever after market cooler I get. I'm shopping newegg and am trying to decide what to pickup. I've looked through tons of the sigs on this site for ideas as well. I like the pipe ones with the hidden fan - it just feels right for me... regardless is that a good idea?

Here is the one I like: ASUS V-60 92mm Vapo Bearing CPU Cooler.

Let me know if that one will work and if I need to change my NB/SB cooling at all too.

Thanks,

g


----------



## SickStew

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


I still would like to get some better cooling, because I know I'm going to want to see how much more I can get out of her. I don't want to go the water cool route.

I plan on getting some AS5 for what ever after market cooler I get. I'm shopping newegg and am trying to decide what to pickup. I've looked through tons of the sigs on this site for ideas as well. I like the pipe ones with the hidden fan - it just feels right for me... regardless is that a good idea


OCZ Freezer is a better paste and it's the same price


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


First, thanks to everyone on this page/board/site for helping me learn how to OC.









Today was my first day actually OCing, not the AI stuff. I went through the "find your FSB hole" protocol from the first post. I never failed to post, but I did get either BSOD or hang or error hardware failure or error on one core with Prime.

(LDT 1 and Multiplier 6)
The highest I got was FSB 1750 but despite upping Vcore from 1.375 to 1.4375 in increments and increasing NB to 1.563 I just couldn't get her to pass Prime.

(LDT 5 and Multiplier 8)
Running great at FSB 1700, Vcore 1.375, and NB 1.393. A little hot, but if not doing a stress test no problems.

I still would like to get some better cooling, because I know I'm going to want to see how much more I can get out of her. I don't want to go the water cool route.

I plan on getting some AS5 for what ever after market cooler I get. I'm shopping newegg and am trying to decide what to pickup. I've looked through tons of the sigs on this site for ideas as well. I like the pipe ones with the hidden fan - it just feels right for me... regardless is that a good idea?

Here is the one I like: ASUS V-60 92mm Vapo Bearing CPU Cooler.

Let me know if that one will work and if I need to change my NB/SB cooling at all too.

Thanks,

g


If you want to use extra voltage on the northbridge, the Thermalright HR-05 is an excellent choice. There is also a Thermaltake one that people recommend.

As for the sb, I put a CoolerMaster Blue Ice heatsink on it, but it's probably not necessary, as most people don't cool it and seem fine.


----------



## Kopi

422x9 = 3.8ghz

3.8ghz = Kopi









This board is handling the 45nm like a champ for an old chipset. 1.3v and 2.1v on 2x2gb of my tracers..


----------



## stucknnola

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


If you want to use extra voltage on the northbridge, the Thermalright HR-05 is an excellent choice. There is also a Thermaltake one that people recommend.

As for the sb, I put a CoolerMaster Blue Ice heatsink on it, but it's probably not necessary, as most people don't cool it and seem fine.


So OCZ paste it is. Next set o' questions. If I use an after market cooler for CPU and NB how do I ensure that they both fit on my board?

On my first round of FSB hole hunting, I didn't find one. (I did skip from 1333 directly to 1600 then to 1700 so I may have missed it.) Every time it posted fine. I just had errors running Prime95 or it BSOD on me. Does that mean I have hit my max? I find that hard to believe at a ~30% OC.

Thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
So OCZ paste it is. Next set o' questions. If I use an after market cooler for CPU and NB how do I ensure that they both fit on my board?

On my first round of FSB hole hunting, I didn't find one. (I did skip from 1333 directly to 1600 then to 1700 so I may have missed it.) Every time it posted fine. I just had errors running Prime95 or it BSOD on me. Does that mean I have hit my max? I find that hard to believe at a ~30% OC.

Thanks,

g

You need to raise the voltage if you wish to run higher speeds. Try adding a couple notches to the vcore. You can find your stock vcore with coretemp.

At 1700 fsb you will probably need more nb voltage for sure. 1600 you may or may not. But before you go to 1.56v I would advise you at least reseat you stock heatsink with some good thermal paste.

Also make sure you set your memory timings manually, because this board will sometimes use extremely loose timings, causing instability.


----------



## stucknnola

My timings are manual at 5-4-4-15 T2 (stock)

This is a noob question.

If your machine posts and starts windows is it safe to assume you can get that to be stable with tweaking and good cooling?

This is in contrast to not getting to post which "may" be an unacceptable/unachievable FSB, assuming you're giving enough juice.

Main thing is that I do not know how to interpret what happens when things go poorly. I reset and increase the Vcore a few times and see what happens. If that doesn't work I notch the NB up at tad if there is room.

How will I know when I've gone "too far"?









(I pretty much follow the how to OC your P5N-E post religiously.)

Thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


My timings are manual at 5-4-4-15 T2 (stock)

This is a noob question.

If your machine posts and starts windows is it safe to assume you can get that to be stable with tweaking and good cooling?

This is in contrast to not getting to post which "may" be an unacceptable/unachievable FSB, assuming you're giving enough juice.

Main thing is that I do not know how to interpret what happens when things go poorly. I reset and increase the Vcore a few times and see what happens. If that doesn't work I notch the NB up at tad if there is room.

How will I know when I've gone "too far"?









(I pretty much follow the how to OC your P5N-E post religiously.)

Thanks,

g


In my experience, fsb's at and below 1600 on this board (unless you're in a hole) can potentially be stable if your processor can handle it. Above 1600 I've had a much harder time finding stable speeds. I believe this is because of the strap latencies on the northbridge becoming erratic above 1600 (iirc).

If it doesn't post, typically it needs more voltage, and the same goes for getting into windows.

You've gone too far if you find you need to exceed the maximum voltage for you processor and 1.56 on the northbridge. But you will probably need better cooling before you get up to the max voltage on your processor anyway.


----------



## powderdonkey

hi guys, i'm having some trouble getting my hard drive recognized XD
i've tried using all the SATA channels, tried using all the different molex/SATA power cables i have AND all the data cables i have (a total of 8 of each!) nothing works, i've tried connecting my hd to another board, it is recognized there... so dunno what else to try.
any of you had the same problemo?


----------



## KHORR

Decided as of now I am going to buy an E8400.









They look so nice. Can't wait to get it and OC it







Hopefully get 4ghz!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *powderdonkey*


hi guys, i'm having some trouble getting my hard drive recognized XD
i've tried using all the SATA channels, tried using all the different molex/SATA power cables i have AND all the data cables i have (a total of 8 of each!) nothing works, i've tried connecting my hd to another board, it is recognized there... so dunno what else to try.
any of you had the same problemo?


Is your psu giving it power?


----------



## Kopi

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=371814

Yay! With more tuning, could EASILY go farther...1.3v +100mv is all it took


----------



## Blizzie

Hi guys. Haven't been here for a while now. I hope you new guys can lend me a hand.

I got Vista Ultimate 64 bit. Trying to enable BitLocker but it says the motherboard doesn't have a TPM. Does anyone know if a newer BIOS version allows the use of TPM? Using 0601 at the moment.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=371814

Yay! With more tuning, could EASILY go farther...1.3v +100mv is all it took


This is great news, nice work man! I'm going to try hit the 4ghz mark too. Did you have to adjust the volts much to obtain that?


----------



## tonedeaf

anyone have any aftermarket North bridge cooling on their p5n-e sli with a tuniq?
just wondering cause i have no idea if there will be enough clearence for a an extreme spirit 2 or a hr-05


----------



## Asce

You will need the SLi version, as it only just fits with a Tuniq


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


This is great news, nice work man! I'm going to try hit the 4ghz mark too. Did you have to adjust the volts much to obtain that?


I was at 1.3v in bios with +100mv on

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tonedeaf*


anyone have any aftermarket North bridge cooling on their p5n-e sli with a tuniq?
just wondering cause i have no idea if there will be enough clearence for a an extreme spirit 2 or a hr-05


Yeah get the HR-05 SLI and you'll be set!


----------



## rasa123

Hey everyone, I just joined and had a question. I just bought 2GB [2 x 1Gb] of Crucial Ballistix Tracer ram for my p5ne sli. I replaced the old ram [1.5Gb of Ultra] and tried to boot. It would run windows for about a minute before freezing. I don't know what to do. I tried switching them to the black slots, but that didn't do anything. Any help will be appreciated, because ram is not my area of expertise....:-[


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


Hey everyone, I just joined and had a question. I just bought 2GB [2 x 1Gb] of Crucial Ballistix Tracer ram for my p5ne sli. I replaced the old ram [1.5Gb of Ultra] and tried to boot. It would run windows for about a minute before freezing. I don't know what to do. I tried switching them to the black slots, but that didn't do anything. Any help will be appreciated, because ram is not my area of expertise....:-[


make sure you set the ram timings manually in the bios. Sometimes this board will use unstable settings on auto.


----------



## rasa123

Thanks. I am going to try 4-4-4-12 and see how it goes. A lot of other people are using those, so I hope it works. ;-]


----------



## Asce

Is it single or double sided.


----------



## rasa123

I'm not sure. How do you tell?


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


Hey everyone, I just joined and had a question. I just bought 2GB [2 x 1Gb] of Crucial Ballistix Tracer ram for my p5ne sli. I replaced the old ram [1.5Gb of Ultra] and tried to boot. It would run windows for about a minute before freezing. I don't know what to do. I tried switching them to the black slots, but that didn't do anything. Any help will be appreciated, because ram is not my area of expertise....:-[



Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


I'm not sure. How do you tell?


What speed are you running the ram? Make sure to set voltage to 2.18 setting or 2.259 setting. Try the 2.18 first.

Then, set your memory timings to (if at 800mhz) 4-4-4-12 or (if at 1066mhz) 5-5-5-12(15 if 12 doesn't work).


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


I was at 1.3v in bios with +100mv on


Interesting. I haven't played with volts yet but I will when I get my E8400. I was always scared of frying it! I really want to hit 4ghz with this cpu.


----------



## rasa123

I'm running the ram at the stock 800mhz. I have the 4-4-4-12 timings, but I'll try bumping up the voltage some more. How much voltage is safe to run through these things?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


I'm running the ram at the stock 800mhz. I have the 4-4-4-12 timings, but I'll try bumping up the voltage some more. How much voltage is safe to run through these things?


Keep the Tracers at 2.2v.. It will be about 2.17v or so on this board (I can't remember). You can run it at ~2.27v but be advised that Tracers die easily going past 2.2v.

Run one stick at a time to see if it works. Also get memtest86, burn as a bootable ISO to a CD, and boot to test your RAM sticks.

Test 1 - Both sticks
Test 2 - Stick 1
Test 3 - Stick 2


----------



## marsey99

you might also need to up the nb volts a touch with the tracers.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rasa123* 
I'm not sure. How do you tell?

Look under the Heatspreaders. You can easily tell if its got mem chips on one side or two.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Keep the Tracers at 2.2v.. It will be about 2.17v or so on this board (I can't remember). You can run it at ~2.27v but be advised that Tracers die easily going past 2.2v.

Run one stick at a time to see if it works. Also get memtest86, burn as a bootable ISO to a CD, and boot to test your RAM sticks.

Test 1 - Both sticks
Test 2 - Stick 1
Test 3 - Stick 2

If its single i wouldnt run more than 2.1v if possible.


----------



## rasa123

I checked and they seem to be single. I'm going to try the same timings [4-4-4-12] and bump up the nb voltage. I'll run them at 2.1v. Thanks everybody for the quick replies. Hope this solves the problem.


----------



## rasa123

I ran them at many different voltages and changed the nb voltage, too, but it still won't run windows for more than a minute without freezing. It's not a heat issue, I know that much. I am just about ready to return them and get some different memory.


----------



## Asce

What speed are they rated at. If it 1066mhz, the best your going to get is about 990mhz. As anything more on this board will result in instablitity.


----------



## rasa123

Their speed is 800mhz. Could it be a bios issue?


----------



## stucknnola

My Asus V60 and OCZ thermal compound arrived today. That is one big cooler, but it looks sweet. I am pretty sure there is more to do than just taking my old stock CPU cooler off and putting on the new one. I've looked through the "cooling" post on this site, but haven't found a good "how to" If some one knows a good link or wants to explain it here, that would be great.

I know I need to take my mobo out and place the bracket on the back prior to installing the new tower, but I feel like I need to do somethng to clean up the CPU and maybe get rid of the stock thermal compound on the V60. I have no clue how to do either of those correctly.

Thanks,

g


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


My Asus V60 and OCZ thermal compound arrived today. That is one big cooler, but it looks sweet. I am pretty sure there is more to do than just taking my old stock CPU cooler off and putting on the new one. I've looked through the "cooling" post on this site, but haven't found a good "how to" If some one knows a good link or wants to explain it here, that would be great.

I know I need to take my mobo out and place the bracket on the back prior to installing the new tower, but I feel like I need to do somethng to clean up the CPU and maybe get rid of the stock thermal compound on the V60. I have no clue how to do either of those correctly.

Thanks,

g



Use 90% or higher rubbing alcohol and coffee filters (because it's the cheapest reliably residue-free cloth you can find). Clean both surfaces, and avoid touching either with your fingers, or anything really (any residue, such oil from your hands, will reduce the quality of the thermal interface). Use the appropriate line method for your chip (don't know what you have)--you can find the directions on the Arctic Silver website, look for the directions for AS5. That is, assuming the OCZ compound you bought is their silver compound. If not... you should probably get something better







But seriously, if it's not, you might want to look on OCZ's website for the method they recommend--probably the grain of rice method. That is, you put an amount of compound onto the CPU heatspreader roughly the size of a grain of rice, and then use a credit card or razor blade to spread it out into the thinnest possible surface that covers the entire IHS.

In other news, people have asked me to update on my system rebuild with the DFI Dark.

First thing I did when I got the board was viod the RMA warrenty by removing the NB cooler







because the TRUE doesn't fit in a horizontal mount with the cooler







Wish I'd known before I bought it, but oh well. So I pulled the stock cooler off and put my Extreme Spirit on it instead, since that fits with the TRUE. Of course I also remounted the mosfet and SB heatsinks with AS5. Then... I discovered that the Panaflo fan I'm using on the TRUE is so big that it blocks one of the DIMM slots... so I've been running on 2GB of RAM until today, when my Scythe fan arrived. So basically... I think they could've done a better job of placing the CPU socket on this board







There's plenty of room between the TRUE and my outtake fan, though, so I'm considering mounting my Panaflo as a pull fan on the TRUE. My only hesitation is that it'll completely block any airflow over the CPU mosfet heatsink, which is currently considerable (though the air is coming off the TRUE, so it's not all that cool). I'm just not sure it's worth it for the 1-2C drop to be expected from a second fan.

So anyway. I started OCing last night, and there is some good news







I set the CPU vcore to 1.4 and the NB to 1.47 and gave a 0.07v boost to the CPU VTT, and booted straight into 3.2GHz. Started playing Assassin's Creed, which crashed a few times on me. After about the third time I tried 1.425vcore and 1.5vNB and a 0.1v on the VTT, and it was solid as a rock. Ran 6 hours orthos stable overnight.

So, bingo--more than a 1GHz OC in exactly 2 tries. I don't even wanna tell you how long it took to get 3.2GHz on this chip on the P5N-E... since 400MHz is right at the start of my board's FSB hole.

Tonight I'm gonna try getting to 3.4GHz or so, if I can manage it. I'll try to stay within my processor's VID this time.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


Their speed is 800mhz. Could it be a bios issue?


What BIOS are you using anyways? I know 0601 works with Ballistix. Have you tested your RAM sticks with memtest86 yet? They might be defective..


----------



## Asce

Tribs your going to hate me now then. My E6420 can run at 3.2 at 1.34v which is less than stock volts for this chip. Have fun pushing for higher speeds, ive near enough maxed mine at 3.66. I recon i could get it to 3.7 but thats pushing it.


----------



## TriBeCa

Damn, yeah I do hate you. My e6400 really loves to eat up the voltage. I got it stable last night at 3.4Ghz, even with 4 x 1 GB of RAM, which is more than the p5n-e was ever able to pull off, but I had to run 1.55vcore, just like I had it on the p5n-e. I'm testing it now at 1.5v, I'd like to stay within Intel's recommended voltages for the chip.

I tried 3.5GHz last night as well, but it wasn't stable at 1.55v. I might try again with higher voltage--I've kind of stopped caring about the life of the chip. If I can get to 3.6GHz at under 1.6v I may just rest there until the chip dies. Of course, that's assuming the mosfets on the board don't give out first. They've got a pretty hefty heatsink on them though, and they get a lot of airflow coming off my TRUE, so I'm hopeful they can manage it.


----------



## rasa123

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


What BIOS are you using anyways? I know 0601 works with Ballistix. Have you tested your RAM sticks with memtest86 yet? They might be defective..


 I'm not really sure which bios I'm using. Is there an easy way to tell? I went through by bios and tried to find it, but it never said which bios it was. Should I try to get a newer [or the newest] bios? I've heard of people using ez flash and others that use the asus updater. Which is the safest? I'm just about to do memtest86 on those sticks...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rasa123* 
I'm not really sure which bios I'm using. Is there an easy way to tell? I went through by bios and tried to find it, but it never said which bios it was. Should I try to get a newer [or the newest] bios? I've heard of people using ez flash and others that use the asus updater. Which is the safest? I'm just about to do memtest86 on those sticks...

CPU-Z ("Mainboard" tab) will tell you, or at post the post messages should tell what revision.

And you should avoid flashing the bios in windows.


----------



## rasa123

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
CPU-Z ("Mainboard" tab) will tell you, or at post the post messages should tell what revision.

And you should avoid flashing the bios in windows.

Ok, I looked at cpuz and I'm using 608. I'm guessing this bios is compatible with my ram because it is compatible with 601. The memtest86 boot disc won't work, so I'm not sure if the sticks are ok or not. If they were fried, windows xp wouldn't even run at all, would it? It will run for a few seconds, then freeze....


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rasa123* 
Ok, I looked at cpuz and I'm using 608. I'm guessing this bios is compatible with my ram because it is compatible with 601. The memtest86 boot disc won't work, so I'm not sure if the sticks are ok or not. If they were fried, windows xp wouldn't even run at all, would it? It will run for a few seconds, then freeze....

Good, that's one of the best for OC'ing.

You sure you burned the cd correctly? You need to burn it as an image, not a data cd.


----------



## rasa123

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Good, that's one of the best for OC'ing.

You sure you burned the cd correctly? You need to burn it as an image, not a data cd.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure. The disc has the iso image on it. My computer just won't boot off of it. I even tried to boot off of the disc in the boot menu, but it still didn't boot the program.







Am I missing something or does this thing just not like me?


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
CPU-Z ("Mainboard" tab) will tell you, or at post the post messages should tell what revision.

And you should avoid flashing the bios in windows.

Ironically, I did a lot of flashes from windows on my p5n-e. Then the one time I used EZFLASH the BIOS got corrupted and I had to RMA the board.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TriBeCa* 
Ironically, I did a lot of flashes from windows on my p5n-e. Then the one time I used EZFLASH the BIOS got corrupted and I had to RMA the board.

huh, that's weird. Usually you hear horror stories about windows lol.

I've done one flash from Windows and it scared me to death because the computer froze for like 30 seconds while it was flashing.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Damn, yeah I do hate you. My e6400 really loves to eat up the voltage. I got it stable last night at 3.4Ghz, even with 4 x 1 GB of RAM, which is more than the p5n-e was ever able to pull off, but I had to run 1.55vcore, just like I had it on the p5n-e. I'm testing it now at 1.5v, I'd like to stay within Intel's recommended voltages for the chip.

I tried 3.5GHz last night as well, but it wasn't stable at 1.55v. I might try again with higher voltage--I've kind of stopped caring about the life of the chip. If I can get to 3.6GHz at under 1.6v I may just rest there until the chip dies. Of course, that's assuming the mosfets on the board don't give out first. They've got a pretty hefty heatsink on them though, and they get a lot of airflow coming off my TRUE, so I'm hopeful they can manage it.


What stepping is yours? I got a B2 stepping and it does seem to like a diet. I had to run 1.45v on the P5N-e just to get 3.2ghz. Couldnt get it any lower and being stable.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


What stepping is yours? I got a B2 stepping and it does seem to like a diet. I had to run 1.45v on the P5N-e just to get 3.2ghz. Couldnt get it any lower and being stable.


Yup, that sounds exactly like mine. On the p5n-e it was ~1.45v for 3.2GHz and 1.55v for 3.32GHz. B2 stepping as well.


----------



## rasa123

I got the them working. I changed the clock cycle from auto to 2 and now they run stable. Thanks everyone for all the help.


----------



## stucknnola

Quick Question:

If I am trying to see the max FSB I can post and stress, why not set the max recommended voltage for my CPU then walk up the FSB? Of course, I will adjust the NB voltage if need be. This seems like it would allow me to get my Max FSB faster. Then I would need to walk down the voltage until I hit the lowest stable voltage to avoid burning out my CPU with all the juice.

Am I crazy?

g


----------



## TriBeCa

yup, that's fine as long as you don't overjuice the chip and hurt it.

this works even better if you set the CPU multi to minimum (6), so you *really* see what FSB's you're capable of. Just keep in mind the highest FSB's you reach probably won't be doable at your stock multi.


----------



## Awesome

CONFIRMED: G-Skill DDR2 2x2Gb PC8000 1000mhz Memory works with this motherboard. My Overclock is now 940mhz. Gonna get it up higher later. I'll update my profile later with my new specs.


----------



## stucknnola

This maybe a silly question as well. Any reason why my two cores are consistantly 3 degrees apart?

g


----------



## TriBeCa

is one being loaded more heavily than the other? if not, the other explanation is that you have a better thermal transfer over the cooler core. or one of your temp sensors is wrong. not really anything to worry about.


----------



## stucknnola

Last message for the day and it's feels like cheating.

What is the max FSB you guys and gals have managed to get stable on your P5N-E? I'm currently stable at 1700. Tomorrow I drop the new CPU cooler on it. (I'm going to pray some before.) I know once I have better cooling, I'm going to want to put the little board and cpu through their paces. Might as well milk the pros for knowledge before I kill them both.

I'm hoping to get a 4.0, but that means 2000 on the FSB and not sure if that is a pipe dream or not. Could just be a newb dream...

Thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


Last message for the day and it's feels like cheating.

What is the max FSB you guys and gals have managed to get stable on your P5N-E? I'm currently stable at 1700. Tomorrow I drop the new CPU cooler on it. (I'm going to pray some before.) I know once I have better cooling, I'm going to want to put the little board and cpu through their paces. Might as well milk the pros for knowledge before I kill them both.

I'm hoping to get a 4.0, but that means 2000 on the FSB and not sure if that is a pipe dream or not. Could just be a newb dream...

Thanks,

g


450 is the highest I've gotten pretty stable(on 1.56v). Iirc, Kopi was able to get 500.


----------



## TriBeCa

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
Last message for the day and it's feels like cheating.

What is the max FSB you guys and gals have managed to get stable on your P5N-E? I'm currently stable at 1700. Tomorrow I drop the new CPU cooler on it. (I'm going to pray some before.) I know once I have better cooling, I'm going to want to put the little board and cpu through their paces. Might as well milk the pros for knowledge before I kill them both.

I'm hoping to get a 4.0, but that means 2000 on the FSB and not sure if that is a pipe dream or not. Could just be a newb dream...

Thanks,

g


Kopi said he got to 485. 500 is indeed a pipe dream. I was never able to get above 425 without taking the multi down from 8x. And even that became unstable after a couple months (at 1.56v). I thought I'd been degrading the chip, but it's stable again on my new DFI board, so it wasn't the chip....

If you really don't care about killing the board, go ahead and juice up the NB to 1.74v. I ran than for 8 months or so before I had to RMA the board, and I'm still not sure that the bad BIOS flash that killed it had anything to do with the stress I'd been putting it under.


----------



## Kopi

485 (1942) at 1.5v with stock cooling, however, after 6+ hours of orthos she locks up and the NB is BOILING. With a fan, it lasts a while. I'm going to do some more max FSB tests soon when I put my HR-05 SLI on there


----------



## marsey99

440 was my max stable on this board but it would do 450 and fall over randomly.


----------



## i_pwn_u

HI, i know u guys know your stuff so ill get straight to the point, i wanna run this board with 2x 9600gt (SLI) but there is no heat sink and a fear buying one that is too large for the cards...also the ones u posted i dont think they would suit me.....thanks
PM me with answers plz


----------



## Awesome

Don't even bother... the 9600 is a waste of money. Get the 8800 GT or GTS (G90). What do you mean by &quot;no heat sink&quot;?


----------



## i_pwn_u

south bridge heat sink sorry


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *i_pwn_u*


HI, i know u guys know your stuff so ill get straight to the point, i wanna run this board with 2x 9600gt (SLI) but there is no heat sink and a fear buying one that is too large for the cards...also the ones u posted i dont think they would suit me.....thanks
PM me with answers plz


The cooler master Blue Ice (heatsink only) is a good choice. Just make sure you buy some thermal epoxy with it, as the included tape is not effective.


----------



## Chinster

Hi everyone, I've had the following for about a week now:

BIOS revision 0703
Intel Q6600 Quad Core CPU 2.4ghz (OC'd by the folk who built it to 2.6ghz)
Scythe Mine cooler (very big!)
4GB Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X4096-6400
Asus P5N-E SLI Motherboard
Thermaltake vb1000bws Case
Samsung 500Gb SATA 7200rpm Hard Drive
Samsung/LiteOn DVDRW
Nvidia 8800GT 512Mb
Thermaltake 750W PSU
Windows Vista 64 bit

The guys who built it oveclocked the CPU to 2.6ghz using the FSB setting (I think). They couldn't get it higher and keep it stable so I thought I might have a go.

Thing is, I'm not exactly sure what to start fiddling with.

I've installed CPU-Z and Asus Probe 2 which tells me my CPU is idling around 28 degrees which seems fairly cool. Motherboard idles around 32 degrees so it seems I do have a bit of room for movement.

I haven't overclocked in years so I'm out of the loop, what settings in the bios do you recomment I look at first before trying to go above 2.6ghz? I'd heard this board was not great for overclocking but you lot seem to be doing ok.

If you could post a little explanation with each suggestion that would be brilliant as I need to learn as I go.

Many thanks!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chinster*


Hi everyone, I've had the following for about a week now:

BIOS revision 0703
Intel Q6600 Quad Core CPU 2.4ghz (OC'd by the folk who built it to 2.6ghz)
Scythe Mine cooler (very big!)
4GB Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X4096-6400
Asus P5N-E SLI Motherboard
Thermaltake vb1000bws Case
Samsung 500Gb SATA 7200rpm Hard Drive
Samsung/LiteOn DVDRW
Nvidia 8800GT 512Mb
Thermaltake 750W PSU
Windows Vista 64 bit

The guys who built it oveclocked the CPU to 2.6ghz using the FSB setting (I think). They couldn't get it higher and keep it stable so I thought I might have a go.

Thing is, I'm not exactly sure what to start fiddling with.

I've installed CPU-Z and Asus Probe 2 which tells me my CPU is idling around 28 degrees which seems fairly cool. Motherboard idles around 32 degrees so it seems I do have a bit of room for movement.

I haven't overclocked in years so I'm out of the loop, what settings in the bios do you recomment I look at first before trying to go above 2.6ghz? I'd heard this board was not great for overclocking but you lot seem to be doing ok.

If you could post a little explanation with each suggestion that would be brilliant as I need to learn as I go.

Many thanks!


The board isn't the greatest for overclocking a quad past 3ghz. You may want to look into the voltage settings, and raise your vcore when you go for a higher fsb, if you haven't tried that already. Keep it under 1.5v (you can find the default voltage with CoreTemp; look at the "VID". Also this will be a more accurate temperature monitor) and keep the temperatures under 65Â°C iirc. 
You can test cpu stability with Orthos on Small FFTS. 8 or more hours should be sufficient for your final OC.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


Don't even bother... the 9600 is a waste of money. Get the 8800 GT or GTS (G90). What do you mean by "no heat sink"?


No its not. Its the only Nvidia card worth SLi'ing together due to drivers.


----------



## stucknnola

YEAH!!!!!!!

Today I attempted my first CPU cooler change. Wife left for the weekend so if I messed up I had three days to fix it before she came home. I was nervous, almost decided not to do it. "3.4 ghz and 72 degrees with Prime using stock cooling. Sure, thats fine."









Then I remembered this lovely sig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chozart* 
It's overclock.net. "Need" is irrelevant









So while the cat's away ....

Installed my ASUS v60 with some OCZ Freeze and BAMM!!!!!

It wouldn't start.









USB connector in backwards - flipped it around and shes purring like a kitten once again.

-Temps-
Stock - idle/prime/gaming 42/72/55
v60 - idle/prime/gaming 32/48/44

(I think my ambient is 23)

Very very please with the new temps. The fact that my gaming temp now almost matches my idle temp an hour ago is awesome.

Thanks Gauvenator and TriBeCa as well as all the others on the site.









g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


YEAH!!!!!!!

Today I attempted my first CPU cooler change. Wife left for the weekend so if I messed up I had three days to fix it before she came home. I was nervous, almost decided not to do it. "3.4 ghz and 72 degrees with Prime using stock cooling. Sure, thats fine."









Then I remembered this lovely sig

So while the cat's away ....

Installed my ASUS v60 with some OCZ Freeze and BAMM!!!!!

It wouldn't start.









USB connector in backwards - flipped it around and shes purring like a kitten once again.

-Temps- 
Stock - idle/prime/gaming 42/72/55 
v60 - idle/prime/gaming 32/48/44

(I think my ambient is 23)

Very very please with the new temps. The fact that my gaming temp now almost matches my idle temp an hour ago is awesome.

Thanks Gauvenator and TriBeCa as well as all the others on the site.









g


Congrats







Those are some great temps








but, how did you manage to put a usb in backwards lol?


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chinster*


Hi everyone, I've had the following for about a week now:

BIOS revision 0703
Intel Q6600 Quad Core CPU 2.4ghz (OC'd by the folk who built it to 2.6ghz)
Scythe Mine cooler (very big!)
4GB Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X4096-6400
Asus P5N-E SLI Motherboard
Thermaltake vb1000bws Case
Samsung 500Gb SATA 7200rpm Hard Drive
Samsung/LiteOn DVDRW
Nvidia 8800GT 512Mb
Thermaltake 750W PSU
Windows Vista 64 bit

The guys who built it oveclocked the CPU to 2.6ghz using the FSB setting (I think). They couldn't get it higher and keep it stable so I thought I might have a go.

Thing is, I'm not exactly sure what to start fiddling with.

I've installed CPU-Z and Asus Probe 2 which tells me my CPU is idling around 28 degrees which seems fairly cool. Motherboard idles around 32 degrees so it seems I do have a bit of room for movement.

I haven't overclocked in years so I'm out of the loop, what settings in the bios do you recomment I look at first before trying to go above 2.6ghz? I'd heard this board was not great for overclocking but you lot seem to be doing ok.

If you could post a little explanation with each suggestion that would be brilliant as I need to learn as I go.

Many thanks!


All you need is in my guide linked in my signature and I created a boot CD for flashing that you can download here.

Good luck.


----------



## marsey99

@stucknnola







glad my sig came in handy, its one of the best (and truest) things i have seen anybody post on any of these boards.

congratz on your hardwork, and moreso on the problem solving with the usb


----------



## stucknnola

The USB connector has 4 little pins with the right most being "ground". I flipped it so the "ground" was on the left. That is what I get for packing all my computer stuff up to move before I modify my rig.

Just got her up to 3.5 @ 1.381 without any problems. Won't post at 1750 or 1800 even if I up the vCore to 1.41. I need to go back and find my FSB hole(s).

g


----------



## Gauvenator

So I'm installing Vista, and I was wondering if I need to install any drivers for the mobo or will Vista take care of it?


----------



## stucknnola

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


So I'm installing Vista, and I was wondering if I need to install any drivers for the mobo or will Vista take care of it?


For me, vista took care of most of the drivers. I downloaded the vista mobo drivers to an external drive prior to the install, just in case. If I recall correctly, I had to install the Ethernet driver myself.

g


----------



## Awesome

I installed the drivers myself anyways... you never know exactly what drivers the OS is going to install.


----------



## UnderXxX

Guys......to get my e8400 to 4.05Ghz....i had to set the vcore to 1.39v and the NB voltage to 1.54....is that good or the pieces are in danger???What are the safe ranges for the CPU and the NB???


----------



## stucknnola

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnderXxX*


Guys......to get my e8400 to 4.05Ghz....i had to set the vcore to 1.39v and the NB voltage to 1.54....is that good or the pieces are in danger???What are the safe ranges for the CPU and the NB???



That vCore will be fine. Check intel's site for max vcore on that chip. My e6750's max is 1.51 so I assume your e8400 can handle 1.39 with ease. The northbridge "should be ok", but may start getting hot.

Check out the link in TriBeCa's sig on how to OC this board, it's money.

To quote his guide:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


...If you hit a point where several vcore increases aren't helping (especially if you're getting a system hang during the 60 seconds of orthos), try increasing the NB voltage to 1.563. You will probably hit this point somewhere between 375-450 FSB. The 1.748 voltage is also an option, but I would only use this with good aftermarket NB cooling, and even then sparingly. It will most likely damage your chipset over time (though it won't kill anything instantly, unless your cooling situation is really awful)...

...Good luck OCing!


(I clipped that quote a tad)

g


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


I installed the drivers myself anyways... you never know exactly what drivers the OS is going to install.


QFT!

The drivers that the OS installs are either older than what is out now or not fully compatible with your hardware. Take the SATA controller based BSOD I was getting almost every day. Sometimes twice a day.

I booted into safe mode, removed it with Driver Cleaner Pro, booted back into normal mode, installed the newest driver from nVidia.com and ta da! I've been stable for 3 days straight.


----------



## stucknnola

Just playing my game, City of Villains it's like crack for me, and the screen turns gray and little vista window shows up saying my graphics card has stopped responding. I turn the game off and restart it without a problem. Not sure what the deal is.

All my drivers are up to date. All my temperatures are normal. Is this an under voltage issue by chance? If it is which voltage is low? (CPU, NB, SB...?) Of course it could always be a Vista issue, but I can't change Vista.

If you guys have an idea let me know.

Thanks,

g


----------



## msetten

Hi Guys, I am new here, but have been reading in this thread for about a week now. Of course, I haven't been able to read everything. But I already got a few good tips (HR-05 on NB, made a difference of 10C on MB reading; reseating CPU cooler using AS5, made a difference of 5C; recabling the case, another 5C on the CPU and 2C on the MB), thanks for all that.

But now my question: I have started to experiment with OC, using the OC guide for the P5N-E SLI. But what should I be aiming for if I want to run my system OC all day?

I am also wondering about what would be better:
A) FSB: 1280 - Multiplier: 10 = 3.2Ghz and memory on 800Mhz, but not a 1:1 divider
B) FSB: 1422 - Multipler: 9 = 3.2Ghz and memory on 800Mhz, but not a 1:1 divider
C) FSB: 1600 - Multipler: 8 = 3.2Ghz and memory on 800 Mhz, with a 1:1 divider

So basically two questions:
1) when shooting for a certain clock speed, what is more important, a higher FSB with a lower multiplier or a lower FSB with a higher multiplier?
2) When it is possible to attain the same clock speed using a lower multiplier and higher FSB to attain a 1:1 memory divider, is that better than the other situations? (better means system performance)

I hope you can help me with this.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *msetten*


Hi Guys, I am new here, but have been reading in this thread for about a week now. Of course, I haven't been able to read everything. But I already got a few good tips (HR-05 on NB, made a difference of 10C on MB reading; reseating CPU cooler using AS5, made a difference of 5C; recabling the case, another 5C on the CPU and 2C on the MB), thanks for all that.

But now my question: I have started to experiment with OC, using the OC guide for the P5N-E SLI. But what should I be aiming for if I want to run my system OC all day?

I am also wondering about what would be better:
A) FSB: 1280 - Multiplier: 10 = 3.2Ghz and memory on 800Mhz, but not a 1:1 divider
B) FSB: 1422 - Multipler: 9 = 3.2Ghz and memory on 800Mhz, but not a 1:1 divider
C) FSB: 1600 - Multipler: 8 = 3.2Ghz and memory on 800 Mhz, with a 1:1 divider

So basically two questions:
1) when shooting for a certain clock speed, what is more important, a higher FSB with a lower multiplier or a lower FSB with a higher multiplier?
2) When it is possible to attain the same clock speed using a lower multiplier and higher FSB to attain a 1:1 memory divider, is that better than the other situations? (better means system performance)

I hope you can help me with this.


You should use whatever is the most stable for you (also some may require less vcore than others, resulting in lower temps). However, I would say A or B because at 1600fsb your northbridge might need more voltage, and I've found that it degrades at and above 1600fsb.

As for system performance at different memory ratios...I would just benchmark all of them, and see which works best.


----------



## marsey99

mine loved 1600fsb and i think you will find your sweetspot there but as posted it will put more stress on your mobo than 1280fsb on a x10 for eg.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
Just got her up to 3.5 @ 1.381 without any problems. Won't post at 1750 or 1800 even if I up the vCore to 1.41. I need to go back and find my FSB hole(s).

g

Your Vcore is way to high, you are running the risk of burning your chip up.
http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLAPL


----------



## marsey99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Your Vcore is way to high, you are running the risk of burning your chip up.
http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLAPL


that would be relavent if it was the right cpu.

try an older driver for your gpu, yea i know its not the norm to go with an older version but it cured a few random gpu related crashes i had with mine.

169.21 im running now.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


that would be relavent if it was the right cpu.

try an older driver for your gpu, yea i know its not the norm to go with an older version but it cured a few random gpu related crashes i had with mine.

169.21 im running now.


http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLAPP
He got the wrong model but it's still the same.. Your vcore is too high. Wolfdale's die EASY.


----------



## marsey99

stucknnolas is a 6850 so i think it will be ok.

thanks for the concern with regards to mine but i think it will be ok too, people told me more than 1.5v was too much for a e4300.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


stucknnolas is a 6850 so i think it will be ok.

thanks for the concern with regards to mine but i think it will be ok too, people told me more than 1.5v was too much for a e4300.


Oh nevermind.. I was looking at yours and I saw

CPU
e8200

Didn't know he was referring to someone else.


----------



## stucknnola

My processor is an e6750, vCore range is 0.85-1.5V. So my vCore is to high for a e8400 or e8200, but is fine for my chip. My temps are great and she is very stable, outside of th gpu thing, which hasn't occured since the slight nudge to my vCore.

I will try older drives and see how it goes. At the slightly lower vCore I also had my game freeze with a lovely high pitched noise coming out of the speakers forcing me to reset the machine.

If she is stable on older drivers, I will decrease the vCore back down a tad. This is assuming she is stable and posts at the lower vCore.

____

I cannot find 169.21 driver. 169.02 and 169.25 are the ones listed for Vista 32.

g


----------



## Asce

I thought he had a E8400 for some wierd reason


----------



## marsey99

i thought it was a 6850?????? no harm no foul????

best place for nvidia drivers but looking at it it seems that this was nv's first released for my card and i know that later drivers gave me more perfomance than this 1.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


My processor is an e6750, vCore range is 0.85-1.5V. So my vCore is to high for a e8400 or e8200, but is fine for my chip. My temps are great and she is very stable, outside of th gpu thing, which hasn't occured since the slight nudge to my vCore.

I will try older drives and see how it goes. At the slightly lower vCore I also had my game freeze with a lovely high pitched noise coming out of the speakers forcing me to reset the machine.

If she is stable on older drivers, I will decrease the vCore back down a tad. This is assuming she is stable and posts at the lower vCore.

____

I cannot find 169.21 driver. 169.02 and 169.25 are the ones listed for Vista 32.

g


169.25 is WHQL.


----------



## stucknnola

I went hole hunting and found a ceiling rather than a hole, I think.









I set my LDT - 1 and multiplier to x6 then set my vCore to 1.50 and FSB to 1900. Next I decreased my FSB by 20 repeatedly. I can post at 1760 but not get into Windows. At 1750 everything is fine no errors on Prime and good temps.

If I can't post from 1770-1900 with 1.50, and a 1.51 vcore max, is that part of my "hole" and I haven't searched high enough or is 1750 really my max stable FSB for this board/CPU combo?

Tomshardware has an e6750 at 4.2, so I don't think that it is my CPU holding me back, rather the mobo. Is this a safe assumption?

If that is the correct assumption, other than tweaking my RAM, what else can I do without buying new stuff?

Thanks,

g


----------



## marsey99

mine ran out of fsb well before my 8200 did.


----------



## Octaned

hey Guys, hoping to commit first proper overclock.

My spec is E6550
Asus P5N-E








2 gig OCZ SLI PC6400
Arctic Freezer 7
2 x 8800GTS 320mb

Wanting around 3.4ghz mark ,all i can really expect with a 7x multiplier :*(

Can anyone give advice for fsb,voltages and Memory Timings e.t.c thnx


----------



## overclockerfx

Heres my system at the moment:

ASUS P5N-E SLI
Intel E2160 1,8Ghz M0 stepping @3,0 GHz Vcore 1,4V
XFX 8600 GTS XXX Edition (at factory settings)
Kingston HyperX 1GB DDR800 @ DDR900 ~1,985V 4-4-4-12
Silvershield 400W PSU
160GB WD 7200rpm + DVD/CD Burner Combo Drive

I havent touched the NB voltage (set to auto)

Just ran superpi 1M to 22,334s









Im running a Spire CoolflowII cooler and my temps are beggining to get quite high and i think i need a new cooler so this is what im considering:

Zalman CNPS 7500 Alcu / CNPS 7500 Cu
OCZ VIndicator
OCZ Vendetta

And maybe (only maybe) the Zalman CNPS9500 AT

SO which is the best heatsink ? And are there any compatability problems with this mobo?

Thanks...


----------



## Missilemike

Hi guys, I am new









I got my p5n-e up and running last week, and had a good chance to experiment with it today on Father's Day









It has probably been mentioned here before, but geeks.com has the p5n-e sli for 69$. It arrived in a plain white box, but the motherboard itself was brand new, sealed, and came with the proper backplate.

- I took off the NB, it was attached with some kind of grey adhesive that I needed a razor blade to remove. I applied some AS5 and put it back on, but have seen no real difference in temperatures. Has it always used this adhesive on the NB?

-I tried a couple different cpu coolers on it, but settled for a katana 2, which has a 3 pin fan, so I pulled that off and ziptied a stock intel fan on there. It cools better than the other fan I tried, a more expensive Zalman CNPS8700NT.

-I placed a stock AMD fan on the NB and have speedfan running it around 1200 rpm. The NB is still warm to the touch, but not scorching hot like it was w/o the fan.

-I am using 4 sticks of gskill 6400 with no stability issues. Have the memory issues been cleared up since release? I just can't bear to read a 700 page thread









-Is 40c too high for a system temp?

Thanks!


----------



## marsey99

keeping the nb cool is the way to get high fsb out of this board.

freezer 7 pro needs a small cut on the fan mount to clear the stock nb hs and get a good contact on the cpu.

overclocking on a x7 multi wont be a fun experiance m8 but i wish you the best of luck with it.


----------



## TheBob!

I have been using the P5N-e sli for about a year and I just decided to overclock my cpu. Everything started off great I moved up 10MHz FSB at a time. Then I hit 300 FSB and I would not even post. Rock stable at 290 stock voltage but it wouldn't post at 300 no matter the voltage.

I have played with it over the last three days and found it will post at 350-355 and 385.5. Nothing else will even post. I updated my drivers to 1002 from 802 and its the same story.

Anyone know how to help me? I have tryed everything. I don't understand why its rock stable(hours of prime 95) at one setting and 1MHz differences it wont post.

Im getting really frustrated. Is there something I'm doing wrong. maybe a bad board?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheBob!*


I have been using the P5N-e sli for about a year and I just decided to overclock my cpu. Everything started off great I moved up 10MHz FSB at a time. Then I hit 300 FSB and I would not even post. Rock stable at 290 stock voltage but it wouldn't post at 300 no matter the voltage.

I have played with it over the last three days and found it will post at 350-355 and 385.5. Nothing else will even post. I updated my drivers to 1002 from 802 and its the same story.

Anyone know how to help me? I have tryed everything. I don't understand why its rock stable(hours of prime 95) at one setting and 1MHz differences it wont post.

Im getting really frustrated. Is there something I'm doing wrong. maybe a bad board?


Sometimes you will have fsb "holes" where it won't post no matter how much voltage you give it. But in your case, you aren't adding any voltage, so try adding a little vcore beyond 300. After 400 you may have to give the northbridge a little extra voltage too.


----------



## Gauvenator

Lately I've been having problems with higher fsbs. I've dropped down to 1333 from 1600 and 1800. I'm still running the nb at 1.56v. How should I go about testing if it's the northbridge causing issues, or my processor, or my ram? I've had the mobo for a year now, and have had the nb at 1.56v for maybe half a year. Do you all think this could have degraded the mobo?


----------



## marsey99

do you need to keep it on 1.5v now at the lower fsb?

if you do i would make me think its the board, if its still fine with less volts on the lowwer fsb it would make me think cpu.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
do you need to keep it on 1.5v now at the lower fsb?

if you do i would make me think its the board, if its still fine with less volts on the lowwer fsb it would make me think cpu.

I haven't tried a lower voltage...is the 1.3 option the default?


----------



## marsey99

i think so for your cpu yes, but it may need the next step for the 4 dimms?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
i think so for your cpu yes, but it may need the next step for the 4 dimms?

true...for 4 dimms 1.56 may be necessary.

edit: There's no way to get an rma on this mobo for me because of the heatsinks I have glued on...I've been considering the Gigabyte DS3L for a little while now.


----------



## Icestorm

Hi, I have an Asus P5N-E SLI with a 8800 GTX OC 768 MB

and I am looking at ORSAIR XMS2 DOMINATOR 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory for my PC, 2gbs of it and i was wondering if it would be campadible with my MOBO and if I had to set anything up when I installed it along with my Dominator cooler. Thanks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145168

ima noob at computers









Specs:

Asus P5N-SLI
Lian Li Case
2GB of DDR2 800 RAM 5-5-5-12
8800 GTX 768 PNY (2)
1000W PSU
22" Acer monitor
QX6700 3.0 
2 500 GB Raptors


----------



## marsey99

those dominators should work a treat, i have a pair of them (rev 1.3) upstairs in mine now and i have used tham in it since release without an issue.

welcome to the forums btw


----------



## Arcl4yd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


keeping the nb cool is the way to get high fsb out of this board.

freezer 7 pro needs a small cut on the fan mount to clear the stock nb hs and get a good contact on the cpu.

overclocking on a x7 multi wont be a fun experiance m8 but i wish you the best of luck with it.


I have e6550 (2,3 Ghz, 7x multi) running at 2,8 Ghz (400 Mhz) with no stability problems. But when I try higher mhz, system hangs at booting, etc. - very unstable.

ur right








7x multi is hard candy to overclock, but after replacing nb cooler, I will try pushing it higher.

btw, have anybody tried the new 901 bios?


----------



## KHORR

Hey guys, I need to update my BIOS on this board and I have no idea how to FLASH it. Could anyone help me out with versions and what I need etc? Thanks in advance!

EDIT: All done.


----------



## overclockerfx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *overclockerfx* 
Heres my system at the moment:

ASUS P5N-E SLI
Intel E2160 1,8Ghz M0 stepping @3,0 GHz Vcore 1,4V
XFX 8600 GTS XXX Edition (at factory settings)
Kingston HyperX 1GB DDR800 @ DDR900 ~1,985V 4-4-4-12
Silvershield 400W PSU
160GB WD 7200rpm + DVD/CD Burner Combo Drive

I havent touched the NB voltage (set to auto)

Just ran superpi 1M to 22,334s









Im running a Spire CoolflowII cooler and my temps are beggining to get quite high and i think i need a new cooler so this is what im considering:

Zalman CNPS 7500 Alcu / CNPS 7500 Cu
OCZ VIndicator
OCZ Vendetta

And maybe (only maybe) the Zalman CNPS9500 AT

SO which is the best heatsink ? And are there any compatability problems with this mobo?

Thanks...

It would be nice if somone answered my question...


----------



## Icestorm

Thanks a ton guys for the help. good to have some tech help


----------



## KHORR

Sorry, another question







Anyone know how to up my NB volts to 1.4 ish on this board?


----------



## marsey99

khorr choose 1.39v for the nb in the advanced options/voltages part of your bios.

@overclockfx

tbh m8 of those you name i wouldnt choose any, i would look at the vendetta 2 if you want a good cooler, if you want as good as it gets get mine or a true.

i know of no fitting issues with any of those you mentioned but i do know that the freezer 7 pro needs a small part of the fan mount to be removed so it gets a propper contact with the cpu.


----------



## Icestorm

yeah I own an Freezer pro 7, it works great


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerfx*


It would be nice if somone answered my question...










Well I think the TRUE is the best air cooler and it fits with this board fine, just watch out for the capacitors when mounting iirc.

Water cooling is really sweet and fits fine too


----------



## Macsimus

I've read as many posts as I can out of this 700+ and still dont see anyone running a e6600 quad at anything higher than 2.7? Did I just miss it, or has no one been successful beyond 2.7? If anyone know's how to clock the qaud somewhere between 3.2-3.4, there settings would be much appreiciated! Thanks!


----------



## Gauvenator

Sooo....it turns out the mobo isn't crapping out. I think it is my processor that is degrading. I guess pushing 1.45 and folding for a while hurt it. So now I have to use 1.4v at 2.8ghz









I want a quad, but I don't have the cash for a new mobo and a quad. So I'll probably end up getting a penryn dual. What bios do I need for penryn? I'm at 0608 currently.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Macsimus* 
I've read as many posts as I can out of this 700+ and still dont see anyone running a e6600 quad at anything higher than 2.7? Did I just miss it, or has no one been successful beyond 2.7? If anyone know's how to clock the qaud somewhere between 3.2-3.4, there settings would be much appreiciated! Thanks!

3 is about the highest you can get on this board with a q6600, unfortunately.


----------



## stucknnola

So good times aplenty...

I backed off my OC a tad and it no longer locks up after several hours of gaming. It also requires significantly less voltage. NB voltage is back to one below 1.393, can't pull the number out of my brain right now. I am still having my graphics driver problem. I changed back to 169.25 which is WHQL. Any thoughts? I'm not sure if this is driver or OC issue. My graphics card is at it's stock settings... pretty sure temps are ok on my gpu.

Thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


So good times aplenty...

I backed off my OC a tad and it no longer locks up after several hours of gaming. It also requires significantly less voltage. NB voltage is back to one below 1.393, can't pull the number out of my brain right now. I am still having my graphics driver problem. I changed back to 169.25 which is WHQL. Any thoughts? I'm not sure if this is driver or OC issue. My graphics card is at it's stock settings... pretty sure temps are ok on my gpu.

Thanks,

g


Try playing with your cpu at stock to determine if it's a graphics driver problem or oc.


----------



## Macsimus

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Sooo....it turns out the mobo isn't crapping out. I think it is my processor that is degrading. I guess pushing 1.45 and folding for a while hurt it. So now I have to use 1.4v at 2.8ghz









I want a quad, but I don't have the cash for a new mobo and a quad. So I'll probably end up getting a penryn dual. What bios do I need for penryn? I'm at 0608 currently.

3 is about the highest you can get on this board with a q6600, unfortunately.


Any clue what Bios settings they sed to get to even 3.0? It's really sad when the Duo is up around like 3.8 and you can even get the quad past 3.0! thanks for the info though!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Macsimus*


Any clue what Bios settings they sed to get to even 3.0? It's really sad when the Duo is up around like 3.8 and you can even get the quad past 3.0! thanks for the info though!


I believe there is a guide/thread about that. You can get the quad up much higher with other mobos tho


----------



## marsey99

its all to do with the power delivery for the cpu, this board only has 2(3 if you use the vcore offset) power regulators which cant handle the 4 cores on the quads.

gauv i think it was 0803 that introduced wolfdale support but 0901 was the first offical 1. sry to hear about your chip m8, keep an eye on it as a small drop in ocing ability isnt unheard of after a while.

if your in the market i would give the 7200 some thought, its higher multi should make clocking a breeze.


----------



## SSJVegeta

My OC has been holding up well but if I overclock the RAM above 900MHz then the PC restarts a few hours into a Orthos small FFT test. If I lower the CPU speed then I can OC the RAM higher.

Is that an indicator of pumping more volts into the CPU or should I up the northbridge voltage which is already at 1.39v?


----------



## marsey99

nb m8, if you need to offset fsb to gain ram speed its nb.

you could also try dropping your pcie clock if you have raised that too.


----------



## KHORR

Urgh something weird is going on. I'm upping my voltages in my BIOS on this board (using 0903) and for some reason CPU-Z and Core Temp both say I'm still running 1.225. Anyone know a possible reason for this?


----------



## marsey99

they are reading your vid not reporting your vcore, try everest or speedfan.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


they are reading your vid not reporting your vcore, try everest or speedfan.


Doh >.< thankyou.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
its all to do with the power delivery for the cpu, this board only has 2(3 if you use the vcore offset) power regulators which cant handle the 4 cores on the quads.

gauv i think it was 0803 that introduced wolfdale support but 0901 was the first offical 1. sry to hear about your chip m8, keep an eye on it as a small drop in ocing ability isnt unheard of after a while.

if your in the market i would give the 7200 some thought, its higher multi should make clocking a breeze.

Oh wow I forgot about the 7200. I like that it's only $135. It has only 3mb of cache tho..but the price is awesome.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
its all to do with the power delivery for the cpu, this board only has 2(3 if you use the vcore offset) power regulators which cant handle the 4 cores on the quads.

gauv i think it was 0803 that introduced wolfdale support but 0901 was the first offical 1. sry to hear about your chip m8, keep an eye on it as a small drop in ocing ability isnt unheard of after a while.

if your in the market i would give the 7200 some thought, its higher multi should make clocking a breeze.

Thx +1

So where would I find that utility that you put on a usb drive to flash the bios? I want to do it before I get the new cpu, in case it kills the board and I have to buy a new mobo instead.

EDIT: Is it the phoenix flash utility 1.2?
http://dlsvr01.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...WDFLASH120.zip


----------



## Gauvenator

According to this page on the Asus website, the e7200 requires 1001 bios. The closest to that that is available is 1002, which is beta. Do you think they meant 0901?


----------



## barrysgoods

so this motherboard will work with my core 2 duo e6600?


----------



## KHORR

Urgh, I'm still having some trouble OC'ing this E8400 on this board. For some reason, it won't boot past 3.5ghz, and that's as far as I can get it. And it even froze on 3.5 at one stage so I had to underclock! I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've tried changing NB volts in bios, changing my vcore to 1.3 and around that, I don't know what to do







I really want to get this cpu to 4ghz.

I'm thinking it could be because of my RAM, but I just don't really know what to do with timings, volts, etc.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
Urgh, I'm still having some trouble OC'ing this E8400 on this board. For some reason, it won't boot past 3.5ghz, and that's as far as I can get it. And it even froze on 3.5 at one stage so I had to underclock! I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've tried changing NB volts in bios, changing my vcore to 1.3 and around that, I don't know what to do







I really want to get this cpu to 4ghz.

I'm thinking it could be because of my RAM, but I just don't really know what to do with timings, volts, etc.

If you can set your timings to the standard the manufacturer's website (or from where you bought it) specifies it should help stability.


----------



## Gauvenator

Can someone please give me instructions or a link to a tutorial to flash my bios with a usb key?


----------



## Deegan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *barrysgoods*


so this motherboard will work with my core 2 duo e6600?


yes i am running one right now with this board.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Can someone please give me instructions or a link to a tutorial to flash my bios with a usb key?


I did it like 2 days ago. All I did was download the BIOS you want, put it on a flash drive then reboot. I went into BIOS and went to E.Z. flash, and it will ask if you want to turn it on, then enter on es or whatever, and it's all straight forward from there. Just select the drive and it will display your drivers, it will find it all automatically.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KHORR*


I did it like 2 days ago. All I did was download the BIOS you want, put it on a flash drive then reboot. I went into BIOS and went to E.Z. flash, and it will ask if you want to turn it on, then enter on es or whatever, and it's all straight forward from there. Just select the drive and it will display your drivers, it will find it all automatically.


Thanks! +Rep

Before I do it tho, I need someone to verify which BIOS the e7200 requires. I know someone was using one earlier...I'll have to dig around, but if anyone knows, please post.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Thanks! +Rep

Before I do it tho, I need someone to verify which BIOS the e7200 requires. I know someone was using one earlier...I'll have to dig around, but if anyone knows, please post.

No worries







I'm not sure what BIOS you will need though, is it a 45nm chip? I know those need 080x plus. I'm using 0901 at the moment running an E8400.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
No worries







I'm not sure what BIOS you will need though, is it a 45nm chip? I know those need 080x plus. I'm using 0901 at the moment running an E8400.

Yah it's 45nm...the asus website is confusing as it says that the e7200 requires 1001 which doesn't exist.


----------



## KHORR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Yah it's 45nm...the asus website is confusing as it says that the e7200 requires 1001 which doesn't exist.

Hmm that's odd... but I know you need the 08 BIOS to run 45nm chips. I'd say if you updated to at least that then you should be okay, but I'm not sure.


----------



## marsey99

sry man, needed to sleep.

yea, ez flash picks up the flash drive as it would a floppy so you just need to get the bios iso, i think the drive needs to be fat not ntsf too but im not 100% on that.

i was running 0803 and it worked with my 8200 but it didnt have the .5 multi, 0901 had those. im not sure as the 7200 came out after mine so you may need a later bios but i would bet any after 0803 will let you post. tbh i would grab the latest 1.


----------



## stucknnola

For those of you following the display driver stopped responding saga here is the next update.

- I installed the newest WHQL driver for my graphics card - still occurs
- I installed the newest nForce driver - still occurs
- I set all my OC stuff back to stock - still occurs

I think I need to see if it occurs with a different game. Does anyone else have other ideas?

Thanks,

g


----------



## stucknnola

I upped the fan speed on the card to see if over heating was an issue and the problem occurs more often. Could it be underpowered?

When I put in the new cpu cooler in changed the cabling so that I now have the same cable powering my hard drives and fans and the graphics card. Just hit me that I did that. Before I go rerun the power let me know if that is a reasonable possibility.

- Should I try keep each larger device on its own power if possible? Not seperate PSUs, but a seperate cable from the PSU.

Thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
I upped the fan speed on the card to see if over heating was an issue and the problem occurs more often. Could it be underpowered?

When I put in the new cpu cooler in changed the cabling so that I now have the same cable powering my hard drives and fans and the graphics card. Just hit me that I did that. Before I go rerun the power let me know if that is a reasonable possibility.

- Should I try keep each larger device on its own power if possible? Not seperate PSUs, but a seperate cable from the PSU.

Thanks,

g

check your voltages in speedfan. If some of the rails are underpowered, you might want to try separate cables.


----------



## stucknnola

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
check your voltages in speedfan. If some of the rails are underpowered, you might want to try separate cables.

Not good at the voltage stuff.

Here is my speed fan info:

Vcore1: 1.47 (odd that my Vcore should be set to 1.38)
Vcore2: 3.28
+3.3 at 0.00
+5 at 4.87
+12 at 11.97
-12 at -16.72
-5 at -8.48
+5 at 4.89
Vbat 3.12

Not sure what to do with those numbers.

Thanks,

g


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
Not good at the voltage stuff.

Here is my speed fan info:

Vcore1: 1.47 (odd that my Vcore should be set to 1.38)
Vcore2: 3.28
+3.3 at 0.00
+5 at 4.87
+12 at 11.97
-12 at -16.72
-5 at -8.48
+5 at 4.89
Vbat 3.12

Not sure what to do with those numbers.

Thanks,

g

Looks fine except for that vcore. Probably just erroneous. But check in the bios in the hardware monitor what the vcore reading is.

Edit: Just had an idea. If you're cooling is good, try upping the nb voltage to the 1.5 setting.


----------



## stucknnola

I have stock cooling on the NB... i want the HR-05 from newegg, but it's been out of stock.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
I have stock cooling on the NB... i want the HR-05 from newegg, but it's been out of stock.

Check out sidewindercomputers.com I got mine from there for about the same price.

In the meantime, just blow a powerful fan over it.


----------



## stucknnola

I could always take the stock fan and put my new thermal paste under it.

That sight has it. Which HR-05 to get and do I need the mounting bracket for the HR-05?

Also in the bios the Vcore is set to 1.381, but it still shows 1.47 with speedfan. Where was I supposed to check the hardware monitor?

Thanks,

g


----------



## marsey99

if you have the vcore offset on remmeber it adds 0.1v to what you set it to so you would need to set 1.28v with the vcore offset on to get 1.38v


----------



## stucknnola

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


if you have the vcore offset on remmeber it adds 0.1v to what you set it to so you would need to set 1.28v with the vcore offset on to get 1.38v


Well thats scary - my tests to see max FSb were ran at Vcore 1.6 not 1.5.

Live and burn... I mean learn.

What is the point of the off set voltage?

g


----------



## TheBob!

To Gauvenator
I have added vcore to no efect I still cant get it to even post at these settings.

arn't those are kinda big FSB holes?


----------



## wcl

What FSB can I expect to get out of a core 2 extreme 3.0GHz?

1400 is OK 1433 fails (BSOD when testing using Prime95), tried upping the voltage and got as high as 1.5 which made no difference. memory is at 800 and is stable at 840, other memory settings are on auto.

Temp is at 30/45 rest/load.

system:
ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i 
Intel Core 2 extreme X9650
scythe mine cpu cooler
memory: corsiar twin2x2048 6400c4
antec 900 case
1 sata drive
1 dvd drive
entry level graphics card
enermax 82+ 385w PSU

with stock cooler and different PSU it would run at 1466 fsb, but this **was not** soak tested so could have the same problem.

edit: OS is vista 54


----------



## marsey99

@stuck

the vcore offset adds another power regulator to the cpu mix, it stops the vdroop from being to bad.

i use it on mine but you do need to remmber to knock off the 0.10v from what you set your vcore @
edit
i wouldnt be too worried about running that much vcore thru your cpu for a short spell m8, my 4300 got that kind of juice quiet often and its still kicking, i just wouldnt go above 1.5v for a 24.7 oc.

@wcl

you have a 45nm quad working in this board? cool its not ment to support them, pmsl that it does, what bios you using?

first thing to do is set your ram to stock, so 4-4-4-12 2t @2.1v? i would guess.

now the extreme procs have an unlocked multi so if i was you i would clock it with that, maybe try for 1600fsb to get your ram 1:1 and just up the multi and vcore as needed.

welcome to Overclock.net btw, if you fill in your system specs in your user cp it will make it easier for us to help you too







and dont forget to rep+ those who help you


----------



## wcl

@marsey99

Thnaks for the tips, I just need to check I understand the terminoligy.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
@wcl

you have a 45nm quad working in this board? cool its not ment to support them, pmsl that it does, what bios you using?

first thing to do is set your ram to stock, so 4-4-4-12 2t @2.1v? i would guess.

now the extreme procs have an unlocked multi so if i was you i would clock it with that, maybe try for 1600fsb to get your ram 1:1 and just up the multi and vcore as needed.

welcome to Overclock.net btw, if you fill in your system specs in your user cp it will make it easier for us to help you too







and dont forget to rep+ those who help you










you have a 45nm quad working in this board? Yes

pmsl that it does: what is pmsl?

what bios you using? 0901 (28/02/2008)

rep+ ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
now the extreme procs have an unlocked multi so if i was you i would clock it with that.

is 'unlocked multi ' unlocked cpu multiplier? so leave the FSB @1333 / 800(memory) and just increase the cpu multiplier?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
and just up the multi and vcore as needed


does 'as needed' mean until stable?

What is the max vcore would you recommend for 24*7?


----------



## wcl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 

@wcl

now the extreme procs have an unlocked multi so if i was you i would clock it with that, maybe try for 1600fsb to get your ram 1:1 and just up the multi and vcore as needed.


max multi is 9x, which it is currently running at.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wcl*


does 'as needed' mean until stable?

What is the max vcore would you recommend for 24*7?


The max you should use 24/7 without harm to a 45nm processor is 1.3625v.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheBob!*


To Gauvenator
I have added vcore to no efect I still cant get it to even post at these settings.

arn't those are kinda big FSB holes?


If the fsbs are 400 and higher, you should try adding voltage to the northbridge, but only if you have good cooling. If you still have the stock cooler, try reseating it with a good tim and adding a fan. The 1.5x setting should do the trick.


----------



## stucknnola

@Gauv

I increased the northbridge voltage and still have the same problem. The wierdest part of what happens is the screen goes gray and my curser still looks normal. I can alt tab to the windows desktop without problems. This makes me think it is software issue more than hardware/OC issue.

I spent sometime looking through the CoH forums and found a post about this exact problem. Apparently it is fairly common with 8800 to have this occur... going to try various drivers and see which one works the best.

Good thing for me is that it is not a stability issue with my OC.. so I can turn that NB voltage back down. Thanks for the help.

g


----------



## marsey99

P... MySelf Laughing









rep is the way of thanking people for post info on the forum that is helpful to you or you just think is good info in general for some to post.

if you can only use upto a x9 multi it means your going have to oc the fsb so you will have to increase the nb volts at some point too as these newwer cpu handle high fsb.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


@Gauv

I increased the northbridge voltage and still have the same problem. The wierdest part of what happens is the screen goes gray and my curser still looks normal. I can alt tab to the windows desktop without problems. This makes me think it is software issue more than hardware/OC issue.

I spent sometime looking through the CoH forums and found a post about this exact problem. Apparently it is fairly common with 8800 to have this occur... going to try various drivers and see which one works the best.

Good thing for me is that it is not a stability issue with my OC.. so I can turn that NB voltage back down. Thanks for the help.

g


Ah that's good to know. I hate the nagging feeling that something is wrong with my hardware.


----------



## TheBob!

@Gauvenator I have the stock nb cooler but my cpu fan is a Zalman 120mm and it blows a lot of air over the nb. I have reseated the nb cooler with artic silver 5 and the cpu. No help there. I have had the nb voltage up to the second highest setting with no change in the fsb.

I just don't understand why a fsb only a few points a way can not even post when the other one is rock stable?


----------



## lookitznite

Does anyone know what NORTH bridge and southbridge water block is compatible with this P5N-E SLI 650i board please help!


----------



## Asce

Swiftech MCW30 fits. Used it myself on the NB.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheBob!*


@Gauvenator I have the stock nb cooler but my cpu fan is a Zalman 120mm and it blows a lot of air over the nb. I have reseated the nb cooler with artic silver 5 and the cpu. No help there. I have had the nb voltage up to the second highest setting with no change in the fsb.

I just don't understand why a fsb only a few points a way can not even post when the other one is rock stable?


I don't know the exact terms for it since it's been a while and I'm rusty.







But.. A FSB works at a certain value and is completely stable at another is caused by FSB holes. This is the reason why some people are completely stable at 3.2 GHz, cannot reach any stability at 3.4 GHz, but can do 3.6 GHz fine. The motherboard just refuses to work er.. correctly at those values.


----------



## KHORR

Hey guys, how do I change my RAM timings and stuff on this board? My ram timings are CAS3, so I'm guessing that's 3-3-3-8 right? Running 2gb (2x1gb) GeIL DDR2 Ultra PC6400 800mhz.

I wanna set my timings manually so I can try hit 3.6 at least with my E8400.


----------



## KHORR

GRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I worked out the memory timings and everything in my bios and set it to 4-4-4-12 L2 and my cpu won't even stay stable at 3.4 with 1.26v!! This is so god damned frustrating! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've tried near abouts everything I think and I just can't get this thing stable at even 3.4. SO FRUSTRATINGGGGG


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
GRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I worked out the memory timings and everything in my bios and set it to 4-4-4-12 L2 and my cpu won't even stay stable at 3.4 with 1.26v!! This is so god damned frustrating! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've tried near abouts everything I think and I just can't get this thing stable at even 3.4. SO FRUSTRATINGGGGG

Is 4-4-4-12-2T your stock timing for your RAM? Whatever it may be, set your timings to that and the frequency.

What is your Northbridge voltage set to? I don't have experience with the 8400 but try bumping up the voltage some more. They can go up to 1.35v without danger.

Also you checked to make sure your RAM was good with memtest86 right? Sorry I haven't read back yet.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
GRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I worked out the memory timings and everything in my bios and set it to 4-4-4-12 L2 and my cpu won't even stay stable at 3.4 with 1.26v!! This is so god damned frustrating! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've tried near abouts everything I think and I just can't get this thing stable at even 3.4. SO FRUSTRATINGGGGG

Set your ram's voltage manually too. Your sticks might require higher voltages to be stable. Check at newegg or geils website, which should tell you the required voltage.


----------



## Blizzie

Hey Gauvenator. How's that sound card of yours over the onboard? Curious.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Hey Gauvenator. How's that sound card of yours over the onboard? Curious.


I really haven't compared them...I imagine they wouldn't be much different, apart from less electrical noise. The Audigy SE is pretty old...it was just laying around the house so I figured I'd use it instead of the onboard.

I think I'll compare them sometime, it would be interesting to see if one can actually notice a difference.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I really haven't compared them...I imagine they wouldn't be much different, apart from less electrical noise. The Audigy SE is pretty old...it was just laying around the house so I figured I'd use it instead of the onboard.

I think I'll compare them sometime, it would be interesting to see if one can actually notice a difference.


Ah. Then the difference wasn't big enough for you to notice without actually comparing/testing them.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Ah. Then the difference wasn't big enough for you to notice without actually comparing/testing them.










Well I haven't actually used the onboard, so I have no idea lol.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Well I haven't actually used the onboard, so I have no idea lol.


Oh.


----------



## marsey99

on boards not bad for movies but an xfi pwns it for gaming.


----------



## Butterbum

Hey.

I have just brought the ASUS P5N-E SLI for my new budget rig. Ive also ordered an E8200 along with it. This is a new boxed version of the mobo from Overclockers UK, so it should come with the latest bios support for my E8200? Or will have to upgrade it?

Thanks


----------



## Asce

You may have to do a BIOS flash. There is no wau to tell what bios it is likely to come with.


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
You may have to do a BIOS flash. There is no wau to tell what bios it is likely to come with.

Yeah? That could be a problem then. I don't have another socket 755 cpu laying about. It wont let me update without a cpu inside correct?


----------



## Butterbum

Is there anybody here who has recently brought a P5N-E and can tell me what bios it shipped with?

Cheers.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Butterbum* 
Yeah? That could be a problem then. I don't have another socket 755 cpu laying about. It wont let me update without a cpu inside correct?

Yup. You need a working computer to flash the BIOS; minus the boot device.

CPU, RAM, PSU, Video.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Butterbum* 
Is there anybody here who has recently brought a P5N-E and can tell me what bios it shipped with?

Cheers.

No clue. Got mine a year ago.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butterbum*


Is there anybody here who has recently brought a P5N-E and can tell me what bios it shipped with?

Cheers.


I got a new one after RMA'ing my old one in April and it came with BIOS 0801.


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I got a new one after RMA'ing my old one in April and it came with BIOS 0801.


Awesome. That was a good few months back. So I've got a pretty good chance of getting an E8200 capable mobo when my delivery comes through on Monday?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butterbum*


Awesome. That was a good few months back. So I've got a pretty good chance of getting an E8200 capable mobo when my delivery comes through on Monday?


Hope is a good thing.


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Hope is a good thing.










Haha. Yes it is







. Ill post my findings here on Monday, just in case anybody runs into any similar problems with this mobo. Hopefully next build i wont get such an old mobo. Shes gonna be running along side a 9600gt and a E8200, so the rig should perform well nonetheless.

Thanks.


----------



## Asce

I bought mine a few weeks after it came out and its still on 0307 bios. Never need to update it.


----------



## not quite there yet

Hi guys,

I hope this is the right area to post my problem?!
Im running 0703 bios on my p5n-e and after many hours crawling through this very long thread ive started ocing....just.
its running at stable at 2.8ghz (of which im very proud of...thanks to you lot!!) but as soon as i try and 
get passed this 'barrier' on startup it crashes at the bios screen
it wont even let me into settings or boot menu, so ive had to clear ram with jumpers twice now. 
Is this normal for a bad oc? i was expecting it to hang at windows boot
or when running orpheus (or similar)
Or is this my 'hole'? if so im struggling to get passed it.
please be patient...im a super noob
Any advice is gratefully recieved.


----------



## KHORR

I've changed my volts for NB, RAM, and CPU. Manually set timings. I don't know what's going on... I must be missing something. It's freezing after a few seconds after I log in on 3350ghz. I went from 3300 to 3350 and it freezes. I've tried running it at 1.35v, my RAM at 2v, still nothing. It just keeps freezing.









I haven't run memtest because I have no idea how. I made a bootable USB (I think) but I'm not really sure on how to use it.


----------



## Butterbum

I think i read about this. Apparently its a hole in the FSB? If you raise the CPU clock to just over 3.5-3.6 you should be ok. But between 3.3 and 3.6 there are problems.

Correct me if im talking bull****.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
I've changed my volts for NB, RAM, and CPU. Manually set timings. I don't know what's going on... I must be missing something. It's freezing after a few seconds after I log in on 3350ghz. I went from 3300 to 3350 and it freezes. I've tried running it at 1.35v, my RAM at 2v, still nothing. It just keeps freezing.









I haven't run memtest because I have no idea how. I made a bootable USB (I think) but I'm not really sure on how to use it.

http://www.memtest.org/

Make a bootable CD as an ISO file.
Then boot the CD. Let it run for at least 3 passes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Butterbum* 
I think i read about this. Apparently its a hole in the FSB? If you raise the CPU clock to just over 3.5-3.6 you should be ok. But between 3.3 and 3.6 there are problems.

Correct me if im talking bull****.

That is correct. I forgot where the FSB hole is but it exists.. and there are quite a few.


----------



## SSJVegeta

BTW, is it safe to run the northbridge at 1.56v or will it damage/fry the board with the stock northbridge heatsink?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


BTW, is it safe to run the northbridge at 1.56v or will it damage/fry the board with the stock northbridge heatsink?


If you reseat it with a good tim and have good airflow it should be fine.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *not quite there yet*


Hi guys,

I hope this is the right area to post my problem?!
Im running 0703 bios on my p5n-e and after many hours crawling through this very long thread ive started ocing....just.
its running at stable at 2.8ghz (of which im very proud of...thanks to you lot!!) but as soon as i try and 
get passed this 'barrier' on startup it crashes at the bios screen
it wont even let me into settings or boot menu, so ive had to clear ram with jumpers twice now. 
Is this normal for a bad oc? i was expecting it to hang at windows boot
or when running orpheus (or similar)
Or is this my 'hole'? if so im struggling to get passed it.
please be patient...im a super noob
Any advice is gratefully recieved.


*Reference link in my sig.*


----------



## Butterbum

For flashing the bios, i have prepared a USB stick and formatted it to FAT. What do i name the bios file as for EZ Flash? The Asus site says use the board number, but I'm not sure what that is in this case.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


If you reseat it with a good tim and have good airflow it should be fine.


What is the recommended temp limit on the northbridge? At 1.39v it reaches 34C (93F).

Should I try to keep the temps below 40C?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Hey guys,
I'm new here, just found this mega-thread while looking around for some help with a problem that I think might have to do with my P5N-E.
Games are fun - thats why I bought my computer. But whenever I start playing games that are recent (CoD4, TF2, etc), the computer will randomly shut itself off as if I had pulled the plug, and then proceed to reboot. I have everything in my BIOS at default, except for my mem/fsb being unlinked (they're still at the default 800/1333 respectively though). I've been sent a new mobo from the computer manufacturer (they couldn't think of anything else being wrong) , and I've cleaned/applied Tuniq MX-2 to both the NB heatsink and the SB heatsink that I purchased. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this? I'm on BIOS 0608.

Thanks

edit: the system in question is the one described in my sig


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


What is the recommended temp limit on the northbridge? At 1.39v it reaches 34C (93F).

Should I try to keep the temps below 40C?


As far as I'm concerned this board has no temp sensor for the NB/SB.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Hey guys,
I'm new here, just found this mega-thread while looking around for some help with a problem that I think might have to do with my P5N-E.
Games are fun - thats why I bought my computer. But whenever I start playing games that are recent (CoD4, TF2, etc), the computer will randomly shut itself off as if I had pulled the plug, and then proceed to reboot. I have everything in my BIOS at default, except for my mem/fsb being unlinked (they're still at the default 800/1333 respectively though). I've been sent a new mobo from the computer manufacturer (they couldn't think of anything else being wrong) , and I've cleaned/applied Tuniq MX-2 to both the NB heatsink and the SB heatsink that I purchased. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this? I'm on BIOS 0608.

Thanks

edit: the system in question is the one described in my sig

Set your ram timings manually. Look in the advanced>chipset section.

You can find your ram's default timings at newegg, and I suggest this because the board on auto will sometimes put extremely loose timings, resulting in instability.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
As far as I'm concerned this board has no temp sensor for the NB/SB.

I see. I was looking at the motherboard temp in EVEREST and just assumed it was the NB temp


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I see. I was looking at the motherboard temp in EVEREST and just assumed it was the NB temp










If you want to dig back.. Though the hundreds of pages. We spent quite some time trying to figure out what it was. No luck.

Someone assumed it was the average of the NB and SB. But I think not.


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


That vCore will be fine. Check intel's site for max vcore on that chip. My e6750's max is 1.51 so I assume your e8400 can handle 1.39 with ease. The northbridge "should be ok", but may start getting hot.


Thats bad advice dude...

The northbridge is fine, that chip..maybe not.

1.4 is death for 45nm. Anybody remember SNDS? Sudden Northwood Death Syndrome from the good ole P4 days?

I wouldn't go any higher than bios 1.375 in windows


----------



## raZel

Just wondering... is the Asus 1gb 9800gx2 ok to be used on this mobo?
Cheers
raZel


----------



## KHORR

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butterbum*


I think i read about this. Apparently its a hole in the FSB? If you raise the CPU clock to just over 3.5-3.6 you should be ok. But between 3.3 and 3.6 there are problems.

Correct me if im talking bull****.


Wow so if I try jump to just over 3.6 I might be okay? That is really good news.. I might try that now..


----------



## MrQ

You can, but it would have better support on the P5N-D because it supports the the PCI Express 2.0 architecture.


----------



## marsey99

pcie2 is not needed yet.


----------



## KHORR

Urgh god I quit. I'm so sick of this stubborn chip!!!! It just won't post past 3.45+ and I swear I've tried everything in my knowledge to try get this thing higher but nothing is working. I'm starting to think it might be my mobo, but I just have no idea. I'm tired of wasting hours and hours trying to get this thing to stay stable over 3.3


----------



## marsey99

khorr post all you settings/volts and lets see if anybody else has any ideas m8.

i must admit tho my 650 ran out of fsb b4 my 8200 did.


----------



## KHORR

Well, I was trying all these settings:

CPU Vcore and 1.35 was max setting I tried.
NB volts at.. 1.2? I think, if I remember rightly.
Memory at 2.1xx max
I tried manually entering ram timings at 4-4-4-12 and 5-5-5-15, but I don't know too much about that.
My PC wouldn't boot up in linked mode with 1:1.
I couldn't run memtest because I couldn't work it out.









Umm... I'll edit this if I can think of anything else.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


...suggest this because the board on auto will sometimes put extremely loose timings, resulting in instability.


Yeah, the board was setting 5-5-5-31, when the last one should be 18. I set the timings manually, but I still get instability. I've tried each stick of ram by itself, and both have passed all memtest86 tests.. Perhaps it has something to do with Vcore or the NB Voltage? I'm not sure, I don't know too much about voltages. Maybe even b/c of vdroop, under load my processor isn't getting enough power?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raZel* 
Just wondering... is the Asus 1gb 9800gx2 ok to be used on this mobo?
Cheers
raZel

Why wouldn't it?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
Well, I was trying all these settings:

CPU Vcore and 1.35 was max setting I tried.
NB volts at.. 1.2? I think, if I remember rightly.
Memory at 2.1xx max
I tried manually entering ram timings at 4-4-4-12 and 5-5-5-15, but I don't know too much about that.
My PC wouldn't boot up in linked mode with 1:1.
I couldn't run memtest because I couldn't work it out.









Umm... I'll edit this if I can think of anything else.

Raise your NB one notch to 1.5v.

You need to lookup your RAM on the Geil website and find the timings. Do not guess the timings or voltage... You can also use CPU-Z in the SPD tab.

You need to run memtest. What part do you not get?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Yeah, the board was setting 5-5-5-31, when the last one should be 18. I set the timings manually, but I still get instability. I've tried each stick of ram by itself, and both have passed all memtest86 tests.. Perhaps it has something to do with Vcore or the NB Voltage? I'm not sure, I don't know too much about voltages. Maybe even b/c of vdroop, under load my processor isn't getting enough power?

What are your current settings for voltage and fsb?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KHORR* 
Well, I was trying all these settings:

CPU Vcore and 1.35 was max setting I tried.
NB volts at.. 1.2? I think, if I remember rightly.
Memory at 2.1xx max
I tried manually entering ram timings at 4-4-4-12 and 5-5-5-15, but I don't know too much about that.
My PC wouldn't boot up in linked mode with 1:1.
I couldn't run memtest because I couldn't work it out.









Umm... I'll edit this if I can think of anything else.

Try raising your nb volt to the 1.3 setting. At 1600fsb and higher you may need 1.5. Definitely find you stock memory timings and run memtest as Blizzie said.


----------



## marsey99

change your vcore to 1.25 and turn on the +100 vcore offset to remove as much droop as you can.

nb 1.39 should do for your current fsb but 1.56v maybe needed to get the most out of it.

mem 2.1v and set them @ 5-5-5-15 for now.

keep it unlinked but manualy set it so its 1:1.

1600 fsb 800 ram 110 pcie should be ok with those volts aslong as your cool enough.


----------



## Perry

I had to install Vista the other day and figured just for kicks I'd see if the AS5 had enough time to cure and give me an extra degree or so. Well there's no way it cured this much!

My load temperatures at 3Ghz with 1.41v (BIOS/1.44v in Windows) at down from 70 (Tjunction - not that this hypothetical value means much anyway) to 36-38.

Now my guess is that the drivers from the Asus website were throwing off my temperatures as they were being read in Everest, HWMonitor, Asus Probe and Core Temp. This is the only thing that has changed other than possibly the version of the above mentioned applications although I can't see it since they all read the higher value but now all confirm much more reasonable temperatures.

nVidia shows driver version 15.17 that contains:
Ethernet Driver (v67.80) WHQL 
SATAIDE Driver (v10.3.0.21) WHQL 
SATARAID Driver (v10.3.0.21) WHQL 
RAIDTOOL Application (v10.3.0.21) 
SMU Driver (v1.45) WHQL 
SMBus Driver (v4.64) WHQL 
Installer (v5.93)

Asus shows driver version...well, I don't know because the stupid website always seems to be saying down for maintenance but I can confirm the ones on the website are older than what nVidia is showing. Upgrading to the nVidia ones also fixed a nagging SATA controller BSOD that reared it's ugly head every so often.

I'll grab some screenies tomorrow and see what XP reports since it was also showing the higher temperatures. If it is I'll see what nVidia has for drivers for that OS as well.


----------



## KHORR

Okay, so I talked to a guy at work today and found out a bit more about FSB holes. I'm currently sitting on 3.9, which I'm very happy with considering, and it hasn't crashed YET, (touch wood)

I might try bump up voltages if anything goes wrong.. but I'm currently sitting on high 30's idle with 1.35 vcore I think. Just the whole making a bootdisc and stuff puts me off using memtest. I don't have a floppy so I have to get the HP USB tool and I've tried it, but I don't really know what I need to do once I boot from the USB.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


What are your current settings for voltage and fsb?


My FSB is at 1333 mhz (QX6850). Everything is at the boards default settings, so all voltages are on 'Auto' I think (I'm not at the computer right now).


----------



## Butterbum

My P5N-E SLI came yesterday. Shipped with bios version 901, so i didnt need to upgrade it to use my E8200 CPU. Having some issues with the graphics card, but otherwise i am very happy with the mobo. Got my E8200 up to 3.4ghz with no issues at all, very stable. Im yet to try getting it higher. The RJ45 plug on the mobo isnt working, so im having to use a seperate PCI networking card for internet. Seems to be a common issue with the on board nForce networking card, but the mobo has ample PCI slots. Didnt have to change any settings, everything worked first time, even on bios 901, which apparently has stability issues.

Overall, its a good buy, and definitely deserves its own sticky xD. Would recommend to anybody building on a budget.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


My FSB is at 1333 mhz (QX6850). Everything is at the boards default settings, so all voltages are on 'Auto' I think (I'm not at the computer right now).


Check what voltage the manufacturer recommends for the ram. Then manually enter it, as auto I believe defaults to 1.8v.

Also you should find your cpu's default voltage before overclocking. You can find it using coretemp, and looking at the vid value. After you've found that, you should disable the energy saving features of the cpu like eist.

The northbridge voltage is fine at auto until about 400fsb, at which you might need to bump it up to 1.56, if you have adequate cooling.


----------



## deltaepsylon

My RAM is rated for 1.8v, so that's all good.
I'm not OC'ing my CPU at all (so I'm still at 333mhz FSB), should I still find and enter the voltage manually? Also,even with all energy saving features disabled, I still get the crashes.
This is really frustrating!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


My RAM is rated for 1.8v, so that's all good.
I'm not OC'ing my CPU at all (so I'm still at 333mhz FSB), should I still find and enter the voltage manually? Also,even with all energy saving features disabled, I still get the crashes.
This is really frustrating!


Are your temperatures ok? It's possible you might be overheating.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Are your temperatures ok? It's possible you might be overheating.


I'm getting CPU ~45C idle, 57C or so on load.Ive been told that's hot, but Im on a Thermalright ultra-120, with Tuniq TX-2 TIM, that's pretty good and I don't have the money for a liquid cooling setup.
Im getting ~40C or so for Mobo temp. BTW, What's the self-preserve shut off temp for quadcores?
I dont think its overheating though, a couple of days ago I started up TF2 just after turning on my comp, and after like literally 5 seconds in game it crashed. Could you/someone give me the voltages so that I can try manually setting them;perhaps the board isn't setting them correctly automatically.







Thanks!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


I'm getting CPU ~45C idle, 57C or so on load.Ive been told that's hot, but Im on a Thermalright ultra-120, with Tuniq TX-2 TIM, that's pretty good and I don't have the money for a liquid cooling setup.
Im getting ~40C or so for Mobo temp. BTW, What's the self-preserve shut off temp for quadcores?
I dont think its overheating though, a couple of days ago I started up TF2 just after turning on my comp, and after like literally 5 seconds in game it crashed. Could you/someone give me the voltages so that I can try manually setting them;perhaps the board isn't setting them correctly automatically.







Thanks!


I believe the automatic shutoff is around 100Â°C.

Try setting the northbridge to the 1.3 setting (should be the 2nd one).
Find your VID with coretemp and set that for your vcore.
Your memory is fine according to memtest so don't touch that. Btw, how long did you run memtest?

Edit: Just had a thought...is it only crashing in games? Perhaps reinstalling your graphics drivers would help?

Edit2: Does it crash in Orthos SmallFFTS?


----------



## deltaepsylon

I'll try setting the voltages when I get home. As for memtest, I simply set it to run before going to school, and when I got back it said something like " All tests complete, no errors". It had a timeperiod of like 10 hrs to run though.
Graphics driver: I've run into this prob since the 169.xx drivers (or was it 167?) up to the latest one (175.15 I think). And the problem has survived 2-3 reinstalls.

I haven't tried orthos, I'll do that too when I get home.

Thanks for your help so far, 'preciate it.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
I'll try setting the voltages when I get home. As for memtest, I simply set it to run before going to school, and when I got back it said something like " All tests complete, no errors". It had a timeperiod of like 10 hrs to run though.
Graphics driver: I've run into this prob since the 169.xx drivers (or was it 167?) up to the latest one (175.15 I think). And the problem has survived 2-3 reinstalls.

I haven't tried orthos, I'll do that too when I get home.

Thanks for your help so far, 'preciate it.

Sounds like your memory is definitely not the problem then. Let us know how it goes with the voltage adjustments and good luck


----------



## deltaepsylon

crap, got myself grounded, I'll have to sneak on later today, possibly tommorow


----------



## UkGouki

k i had my first bsod today on my old system which has been stable for close to 6 months @ 3,2ghz on a c2d 6400 does anybody know the stock vcore for it because ive dropped the overclock and set it to bios defaults but everest is showing it at 1.31v i had it on 1.32v for my overclock reason ive dropped the overclock is because my cpu is now idling at 45c normally used to load at that temp gah! any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Blizzie

Got a fan on my HR-05. It doesn't feel hot anymore so.. I hope it's working and cooling my NB. Or I'll have a dead motherboard soon.


----------



## Gauvenator

I put my pc back at stock today to see if it was still stable at stock, and I found that 1.56v in the nb really makes it hot. Now that it's on auto my hr-05 is barely warm to the touch. 
Not much effect on the temperature reading from the mobo tho...the sensor sux on this mobo lol.

hey Blizzie what fan did you put on it?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


...does anybody know the stock vcore for it ...


Stock voltage for an E6400 is 1.25 volts.

A BSOD doesn't necessarily indicate your OC is messed up, might just be some drivers or new hardware. What STOP code did it give you?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I put my pc back at stock today to see if it was still stable at stock, and I found that 1.56v in the nb really makes it hot. Now that it's on auto my hr-05 is barely warm to the touch. 
Not much effect on the temperature reading from the mobo tho...the sensor sux on this mobo lol.

hey Blizzie what fan did you put on it?


I put a Silverstone FN81.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999343

I really want a new board.









Edit: I feel dumb.. I can unplug the fan to see if it got as hot as it used to.


----------



## Perry

I could fry an egg off of the northbridge or southbridge on this board. I won't run my northbridge above 1.393v because of the heat issues. If I had an Antec Spot Cool, maybe.

Also I have to stick on a small heatsink on my southbridge but it doesn't have any of the mounting hardware so it looks like it's a zip tie ghetto mod for me.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


I could fry an egg off of the northbridge or southbridge on this board. I won't run my northbridge above 1.393v because of the heat issues. If I had an Antec Spot Cool, maybe.

Also I have to stick on a small heatsink on my southbridge but it doesn't have any of the mounting hardware so it looks like it's a zip tie ghetto mod for me.


Isn't the SB cool? I have a passive Zalman heatsink on it and there's barely any heat.

The NB on 1.5v is a different story.. Just loaded my CPU 100% and the Thermalright HR-05 is *very hot* to the touch. The fan does help. A lot.









Here's a picture.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/4369/dsc04125tj2.jpg


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Isn't the SB cool? I have a passive Zalman heatsink on it and there's barely any heat.

The NB on 1.5v is a different story.. Just loaded my CPU 100% and the Thermalright HR-05 is *very hot* to the touch. The fan does help. A lot.









Here's a picture.
http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/4369/dsc04125tj2.jpg

Wow that fan is huge, and it looks like it helps to cool the backside of the graphics card too. I put a measly 70x15mm on mine...not really sure how much it helps.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Stock voltage for an E6400 is 1.25 volts.

A BSOD doesn't necessarily indicate your OC is messed up, might just be some drivers or new hardware. What STOP code did it give you?

the stop code i googled just pointed to windows safty shutdown because of heat i havent got any new drivers was gonna update the video drivers to 1.75.16 from nvidia today another error code pointed to dx9c error

but thanks for the stock voltage ill manually set it in bios and see what happens ive read with the B2 stepping chip which is in my old rig its capable of 2.8ghz @ stock volts the wife and kids use my other rig for there stuff and games which the only new thing in it is dx9 update which came with my daughters lord of the rings game ill check online @ ms for the distro and reinstall it see if that was the issue but im still inclined to think it was heat :/


----------



## marsey99

i used to have a stock intel cpu fan on my nb heatsink, seeing as i have a couple of them lay about doing nothingi thought it was a good idea.

gouki if you look in everest or real/core temp they will tell you the vid for that cpu which is its "stock".


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Isn't the SB cool?


No friggin' way.

It's enough to burn you or at least it is on mine. I wish I had some thermal adhesive since the silver low-profile heatsink would match perfectly with the board and I have no intention of getting rid of it anytime soon.

I wonder if applying needed cooling permanently would void the warranty?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


i used to have a stock intel cpu fan on my nb heatsink, seeing as i have a couple of them lay about doing nothingi thought it was a good idea.


Do you have any pictures of what you're using? I know the northbridge needs some sort of fan but with my V-60 there's just no room to really mount anything so I'm always on the lookout for new ideas.


----------



## Dextar

Hello everyone,

I come seeking the advice of the experts of the P5N-E SLi mobo. This is my first post here so I'll post everything I can here. I built my system last year in may, ever since then I had nothing but problems, random blue screens, complete hardlocks everything. This is generally only while I'm playing games (I only really play World of Warcraft) but it also happens sometimes when I'm browsing the web or what not. I'm not sure what to do and I could use some help as lately it's been getting worse and I can't even run a game for more than 5-10 minutes before it crashes. I've ran memtest86 and let it run for about 8 hours without a single ram error, I've switched out the video card (I have an 8800 GTS OC 640, switched it with a 6800 card) still crashing, the PSU is newer and it does have the juice to pump the video card and all other components (600w aspire, I called BFG and confirmed everything with them about the PSU being powerful enough). I've ran burn-in test without problems as well so I'm now doubting it's the video card. I'm stuck and I don't know what else to do, I've not yet replaced the northbridge heatsink but I've got one on order (should be here friday).

If anyone can PLEASE help!
System specs:
Asus P5N-E SLI nForce 650i SLI
OCZ OCZ2N800SR2GK DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz (I called OCZ and they said this board supports this ram)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe Processor 2.4GHz
BFG BFGR88640GTSOCE GeForce 8800 GTS OC 640MB
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB Serial ATA II 7200RPM Hard Drive w/16MB Buffer

I have everything stock in the bios and it's updated to 1002.

My memory timings are:
tRAS:15
tRCD: 5
tRP: 5
tRC: 23
tWR: 5
tRRD: 4
tRWT: 5
tWTR: 11
tRDRD: 3
tWRWR: 2

I'm so tired of constantly crashing







I appreciate any input from anyone, I've had this thing at the local PC store to try to figure out what the problem was and all that did was cost me 50 bucks and be without an answer.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Stock voltage for an E6400 is 1.25 volts.

A BSOD doesn't necessarily indicate your OC is messed up, might just be some drivers or new hardware. What STOP code did it give you?

Its not 1.25 for all of them. Yours maybe 1.25v but the VID will change from each batch. My E6420 gas a VID of 1.35v.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Try setting your ram timings at manufacturer recommended. If that don't help/you're already at those timings... It sorts sounds like serious driver issues/ conflicts are occuring. Sounds like your RAM is fine, ditto to graphics, so either bad mobo, drivers, both, or something else ( gah, I'm not too helpful am I )
gl fixing it...


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Its not 1.25 for all of them. Yours maybe 1.25v but the VID will change from each batch. My E6420 gas a VID of 1.35v.

Not mine, my friends








But srry, didn't know that batch thing. Learn something new every day

EDT: sry about the double post, I'm on my iPhone and didn't realize that there were 2 posts until _after_ I had typed the message


----------



## marsey99

@perry
i didnt have it on the stock heatsink i had to use a 60mm fan on that which just screwed into the fins with long screws i had.

i have the intel fan on the noctua heatsink i have, its alot like the thermalright hr-5 but better on paper so...

looks like http://img530.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2008061ho7.jpg that.

cant quiet see much in http://img376.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2008068ia8.jpg this 1.

@dexter

first thing i would do is get rivatuner and turn up your fan because its a hot running gpu and it will heat up the nb (not good) and that can cause alot of issues.

what have you got your volts set at? as over or under volting will also cause issues, your ram timings look oc but they might not be getting enough juice to hold them.

the later bios tend to be suited more to the 45nm chips but should still clock your e66 well, but getting it stable as it is first is more important.


----------



## Dextar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


@dexter

first thing i would do is get rivatuner and turn up your fan because its a hot running gpu and it will heat up the nb (not good) and that can cause alot of issues.

what have you got your volts set at? as over or under volting will also cause issues, your ram timings look oc but they might not be getting enough juice to hold them.

the later bios tend to be suited more to the 45nm chips but should still clock your e66 well, but getting it stable as it is first is more important.


I turned up the fan on the GPU in nvidia's performance thing from 60% to 100%, I currently have a 80mm fan directly over the northbridge until my new cooling comes (it's on order just waiting for them to ship it). Now I've pulled the ram from dual channel and stuck it in the first two DIMMs and SO FAR it's been stable for an hour while gaming. So it's either heat related (I didn't have the fan directly on the northbridge before and the board itself, the gpu and the NB were getting so hot I couldn't touch them but now it's cool as can be) or this board just didn't like that ram or the timings they were at.. I haven't OC'd anything yet as I'm just trying to get the thing stable! All the timings I have are set on auto in the bios, the timing on the chips show 4-4-4-15 so I wonder if the setting it's at now is actually OCing the memory itself?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Well, If it's stable, dont touch and just let it chill








However, if it crashes again, try setting the ram timings manually, b/c this board isn't too good at auto-timings. I was getting 5-5-5-31 when it should've been 5-5-5-18.

My computer also has a problem where it crashes very frequently in games, I think ima try both sticks of ram in the first 2 slots too. hope it works









edit: oh, you're seeing the timings set at 4-4-4-15. I thought that you meant they were supposed to be at that. My bad, ignore the first half of my message then =P


----------



## UkGouki

my batch is b2 revision 1.31v is the vid ive cleaned and reseated and re applied new as5 paste dropped my overclock to 2.4ghz from 3.2 its still on stock vid attached is the screen shot from cpuid seems to be stable and the temp is 32c waiting on burn in.

just hoping the temps will drop back down once our aircon is fixxed currently its 26c in the room this is in!

my main rig is now idling at 32c also i blame the higher ambient lol but its better than the 46c idle temps i had this morning before i cleaned the inside of the pc etc.. on this.


----------



## Dextar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Well, If it's stable, dont touch and just let it chill








However, if it crashes again, try setting the ram timings manually, b/c this board isn't too good at auto-timings. I was getting 5-5-5-31 when it should've been 5-5-5-18.

My computer also has a problem where it crashes very frequently in games, I think ima try both sticks of ram in the first 2 slots too. hope it works









edit: oh, you're seeing the timings set at 4-4-4-15. I thought that you meant they were supposed to be at that. My bad, ignore the first half of my message then =P


No, the 4-4-4-15 is what it says on the sticker on the ram..

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4...ryou033ob4.jpg


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dextar*


No, the 4-4-4-15 is what it says on the sticker on the ram..

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/4...ryou033ob4.jpg


You want to set it to what it says on the sticker then.
4-4-4-15-2T and they run at 2.0v I think?
Everything else for RAM, put it on Auto.


----------



## Kopi

Friday my P5K premium arrives, and this P5N-e SLI will take a trip to HR-05 SLI village. I'm pretty sure my board is a gem, and will crack 500fsb no doubts.


----------



## marsey99

i could only get ddr1000 if i had my ram in the black slots.

dual channel needs to be in the slots the same colour.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


i could only get ddr1000 if i had my ram in the black slots.

dual channel needs to be in the slots the same colour.


Yea. The black slots are supposedly better than the yellow o.0


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Let us know how it goes with the voltage adjustments and good luck










Allrighty. I set the NB voltage to the 1.39 one, and my Vcore to 1.35 (which is what coretemp told me). Computer wouldn't load windows, everytime the windows logo would come up it'd BSOD.

I've set both sticks of ram in the first 2 slots now, I'ma see how that goes, and Ill try some orthos later.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Allrighty. I set the NB voltage to the 1.39 one, and my Vcore to 1.35 (which is what coretemp told me). Computer wouldn't load windows, everytime the windows logo would come up it'd BSOD.

I've set both sticks of ram in the first 2 slots now, I'ma see how that goes, and Ill try some orthos later.

What speed are you trying to get to.


----------



## Timoty

Hello All, someone referred me to this forum. Seems to be exactly what I need. I will just save space and introduce myself and my Rig here for now until I have had a chance to read some of the last 500 pages








My system specs are below. Bottom line is, I can't get the RIG to run like it did with my 800 Mhz ram now that I upped it to 4 GB of PAtriot 1066 Ram. My bantering is at this link.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...62#post3130462

and this one

http://www.patriotmem.com/forums/thr...247&thisPage=1

Coolermaster Conros 1000 with 6 120mm fans 
Thermaltake V1 CPU Cooler
Asus P5N-E SLi
E6750 
2 X 8800 GT 
Audogy 2 ZS
2 X Seagate 250 GB Sata 3 in Raid 0 
2 X 2 Patriot 1066 Memory
Vista Ultimate 64 bit


----------



## Perry

So I think I've found the limit of my overclock without bringing the northbridge voltage up to 1.5v. Anything above 3Ghz doesn't even post and I put the vcore up to 1.48v. I did run 1.5v for a day or so but backed it down because I was too worried about my temperatures.

If we could only know for certain whether the motherboard temperature is from the northbridge or not I think we'd all be much happier.

I may run it with the side off just to get an idea of what I can do.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Timoty*


Hello All, someone referred me to this forum. Seems to be exactly what I need. I will just save space and introduce myself and my Rig here for now until I have had a chance to read some of the last 500 pages








My system specs are below. Bottom line is, I can't get the RIG to run like it did with my 800 Mhz ram now that I upped it to 4 GB of PAtriot 1066 Ram. My bantering is at this link.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...62#post3130462

and this one

http://www.patriotmem.com/forums/thr...247&thisPage=1

Coolermaster Conros 1000 with 6 120mm fans 
Thermaltake V1 CPU Cooler
Asus P5N-E SLi
E6750 
2 X 8800 GT 
Audogy 2 ZS
2 X Seagate 250 GB Sata 3 in Raid 0 
2 X 2 Patriot 1066 Memory
Vista Ultimate 64 bit


The max you will be able to run your RAM at is 1000mhz. Anything over that will cause a BSOD when trying to load Windows.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
What speed are you trying to get to.

I'm not trying to get to a speed, I'm trying to get stable as is! In games, I keep randomly crashing. No OC'd parts on my computer (save for the factory OC'd graphics card). But anytime I go into games, the computer will play fine for anywhere between 10 to 50 minutes and then just die. My monitors will, without warning, display the 'No Signal' thingy, and computer proceeds to POST.








I cant figure out what the hell is wrong
BTW What is LTD Frequency? and Spread Spectrum? Both of those are BIOS settings that I dont know what they should be set at.


----------



## KHORR

Well, overclocking after 3.9 really didn't go well, at all. It was stable for a while on 3.9 and everything seemed fine, so i went for 4. No boot, naturally. So I played for ages and somehow along the line, something went really wrong, wrong enough for me to have to format because nothing would boot









Ah well about time I reformatted anyway. Now to try again....


----------



## deltaepsylon

Hey, Everest Ultimate tells me that under load, my CPU is getting 1.248 (approx., it slightly fluctuates). Should I set my vcore to 1.25V and do the 100mV bump? I have a feeling that this vdroop (is that what it is?) might be the cause of my system instability.
I'm not too sure about that 100mV bump tho, and I dont wanna risk frying my board.

Edit: still haven't tried the 100mV bump, but I was in CoD4 and it did another instant crash. but instead of POSTing, it just sat there shrieking this high-pitched noise at me. One loooong continuous beep. I didn't let it finish (It was making this noise for ~25 seconds continuously before I flicked the powerswitch.) This seems like a mobo error message, but I cant find anything about one long contiguous beep, only smaller segmented beeps, on the net. Help!


----------



## SSJVegeta

Is anyone here running the northbridge at 1.56v with the stock heatsink and has been for a long time without any problems?


----------



## Grizzly Adams

absolute noob help

If I wanted to overclock my E8300 from 2.83ghz (8.5 x 333) to near 3.4ghz what numbers would i need to change in BIOS through jumperfree?

When I change the FSB to 1600mhz (400mhz * 8.5 = 3.4ghz am i right?) and save and exit BIOS, the screen goes black and I am forced to restart manually and it tells me I have had an error starting up and BIOs needs to be reset to default. What am i doing wrong?


----------



## KHORR

You are advancing way too quickly. Start by going up little by little, so say 100-200mhz jumps for the first 2-3 jumps, then try 20-50 until you can find a stable point with good temps.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Hey, Everest Ultimate tells me that under load, my CPU is getting 1.248 (approx., it slightly fluctuates). Should I set my vcore to 1.25V and do the 100mV bump? I have a feeling that this vdroop (is that what it is?) might be the cause of my system instability.
I'm not too sure about that 100mV bump tho, and I dont wanna risk frying my board.

Edit: still haven't tried the 100mV bump, but I was in CoD4 and it did another instant crash. but instead of POSTing, it just sat there shrieking this high-pitched noise at me. One loooong continuous beep. I didn't let it finish (It was making this noise for ~25 seconds continuously before I flicked the powerswitch.) This seems like a mobo error message, but I cant find anything about one long contiguous beep, only smaller segmented beeps, on the net. Help!










I may be chiming in a bit late and forgive me for not reading the previous posts regarding your problem.

Essentially what you want to do is have all settings at the stock configuration. Refer to the manufacturer's website or the documentation that came with your memory to get the correct timings and voltage. Your CPU should not be an issue if you have the vcore set correctly as per CoreTemp.

I can't figure out why you were told that your memory won't operate over 1000mhz by Asce. That simply doesn't make sense. Yes, this board only supports frequencies up to DDR2-800 however you can change the settings in the BIOS to give you that extra 266mhz. There are other people running their memory at 1066mhz without issues.

The 100mv increase really isn't much of an issue. I haven't used it yet because I simply set my vcore to what it needs to be in order to be stable. Some use it because it provides a smaller increase than the next vcore option. Other than that I cannot think of any reason to use it. If you do decide to use it I highly double that you would fry your board but why bother if it isn't necessary?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


Is anyone here running the northbridge at 1.56v with the stock heatsink and has been for a long time without any problems?


I probably wouldn't run it for long without sufficient cooling such as an aftermarket heatsink or at least some sort of active cooling. At the auto setting (Everest reads the default northbridge voltage as 1.25v) it still gets quite warm and at 1.39v it is getting extremely warm to the touch.

In order for me to progress in my overclock I believe I'll need to move it up to 1.56v as well, which makes me a bit nervous. If you need to do it I'd run your system with the side off to ensure you have some fresh, cool air circulating and then bring things back to normal after you're finished.

It could very well be safe but that's a bit too warm for me.


----------



## Timoty

Wow talk about an active board! I usually come back in a day to see if there have been any responses.

Well on try number 30980 last night







I finally got the memory to work with the CPU at 3.2, (1600 FSB) and the memory unlinkled at 1066 with 5-5-5-15. I am going to back up my bios settings tonight because I would never spend that much time again trying to get it to work. Sadly I won't get back to 3.8 again without dropping my memory settings but, to be honest, anything above 3.2 doesn't seem to make much difference in frame rates in Crysis or anthing else for that matter. I need to focus my energy on my two GT's to make any further improvements I think.

Coolermaster Conros 1000 with 6 120mm fans 
Thermaltake V1 CPU Cooler
Asus P5N-E SLi latest bios
E6750 at 3.2 
2 X 8800 GT 
Audogy 2 ZS
2 X Seagate 250 GB Sata 3 in Raid 0
1 X Seagate 400 GB
2 X 2 GB Patriot 1066 MHZ RAM at 1066 5-5-5-15-2


----------



## marsey99

that was about where i found my limits.

it would do 1640 with ddr1000 too but it was a trade off in fsb for ram.

edit

tim put your specs in your user cp m8 save posting it all the time.


----------



## Timoty

Will do. Tonight that is. I'm at work so these postings have to be cloak and dagger =-)


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


I'm not trying to get to a speed, I'm trying to get stable as is! In games, I keep randomly crashing. No OC'd parts on my computer (save for the factory OC'd graphics card). But anytime I go into games, the computer will play fine for anywhere between 10 to 50 minutes and then just die. My monitors will, without warning, display the 'No Signal' thingy, and computer proceeds to POST.








I cant figure out what the hell is wrong
BTW What is LTD Frequency? and Spread Spectrum? Both of those are BIOS settings that I dont know what they should be set at.


Try uping your CPU Voltage just a hair, this board has really bad VDrop, and if your cpu is set so that it will bairly run at the voltage you have it on, when the CPU is pushed during games it will cause a drop in voltage (VDROP). In my experience (Though limited compaired to other members of this forum) restarting is a CPU problem, if it was locking up or BSOD i would sugest checking you timings, but as it is just completely restarting during load, i am going to guess that your not giving enough voltage to the CPU to combat the vdrop.

Edit* i did some more thinking on this, what do you have your NB voltage set at, you may want to juice it up to 1.393 if it is set at the lowest settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ccarey13*


absolute noob help

If I wanted to overclock my E8300 from 2.83ghz (8.5 x 333) to near 3.4ghz what numbers would i need to change in BIOS through jumperfree?

When I change the FSB to 1600mhz (400mhz * 8.5 = 3.4ghz am i right?) and save and exit BIOS, the screen goes black and I am forced to restart manually and it tells me I have had an error starting up and BIOs needs to be reset to default. What am i doing wrong?


Hrmm i do not think you are doing you calculations correct. 8.5***? take what you set the FSB at 1600 (for example since it is an easy number) divide that by 4 to get 400mhz. to get to you CPU speed you them multiply that by your CPU Multi, probably somewhere between 6-10 and always whole numbers, we will use 8 for an example. Thus we get 400mhz x (8) = 3.2 Ghz for you CPU Speed.


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


The 100mv increase really isn't much of an issue. I haven't used it yet because I simply set my vcore to what it needs to be in order to be stable. Some use it because it provides a smaller increase than the next vcore option. Other than that I cannot think of any reason to use it. If you do decide to use it I highly double that you would fry your board but why bother if it isn't necessary?


The thoery behind the 100mv is that since the +100mv uses different mosfests it can help stop the VDrop. But when i was using i did not notice any difference. 100mv = .1 Volts, so your correct, i very much doubt that your going to damage anything with it. That is unless your already at the max voltage for you CPU, then you turn the +100 on, without lowering the Vcore. That could possibly damage the CPU.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Hey, Everest Ultimate tells me that under load, my CPU is getting 1.248 (approx., it slightly fluctuates). Should I set my vcore to 1.25V and do the 100mV bump? I have a feeling that this vdroop (is that what it is?) might be the cause of my system instability.
I'm not too sure about that 100mV bump tho, and I dont wanna risk frying my board.

Edit: still haven't tried the 100mV bump, but I was in CoD4 and it did another instant crash. but instead of POSTing, it just sat there shrieking this high-pitched noise at me. One loooong continuous beep. I didn't let it finish (It was making this noise for ~25 seconds continuously before I flicked the powerswitch.) This seems like a mobo error message, but I cant find anything about one long contiguous beep, only smaller segmented beeps, on the net. Help!









Where did the beep come from? You might want to try putting your sound card in a different slot (if you have one...i forget)


----------



## marsey99

penryn has .5 multis m8

8200 333 x 8
8300 333 x 8.5
8400 333 x 9
8500 333 x 9.5

@ccarey

2830 = 333x8.5

3400 = 400x8.5

3850 = 450x8.5

4250 = 500x8.5

@delta
if you use the offset you need to drop the vcore .1v


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *3rdworld* 
Try uping your CPU Voltage just a hair, this board has really bad VDrop, and if your cpu is set so that it will bairly run at the voltage you have it on, when the CPU is pushed during games it will cause a drop in voltage (VDROP). In my experience (Though limited compaired to other members of this forum) restarting is a CPU problem, if it was locking up or BSOD i would sugest checking you timings, but as it is just completely restarting during load, i am going to guess that your not giving enough voltage to the CPU to combat the vdrop.

Edit* i did some more thinking on this, what do you have your NB voltage set at, you may want to juice it up to 1.393 if it is set at the lowest settings. Speed.

If instead of upping the Vcore, I did the pencil mod, would that be fine? As for my NB, its running at 'Auto'. When I gave the mobo 1.35v on Vcore and 1.39... for NB, everytime I tried to boot it'd bluescreen. I can try boosting the NB voltage again though, this time not specifying the Vcore (it gives it fine automatically) and with the pencilmod.
RAM Timings are fine AFAIK. It passed 9hr memtest86 with no errorz at 5-5-5-18 and 800mhz (exactly what the manufacturer specs are.)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Where did the beep come from? You might want to try putting your sound card in a different slot (if you have one...i forget)

The beep came from the motherboard, although I have yet to figure out exactly where from (NOT from my speakers). The soundcard isn't the cause of the issue - I still get the weird, ulgy, frustrating, despicable, putrid (well, putrid doesnt rly describe it) crashes without it.

Anyways, I'll try the above when I get home, thanks for the help so far!


----------



## Grizzly Adams

so my calculations are right, 8.5 is my max multiplier. If i am right, why does it refuse to boot up whenever I make a change to the FSB? Even changing it from 1333 to 1400 it wouldn't start.


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
If instead of upping the Vcore, I did the pencil mod, would that be fine? As for my NB, its running at 'Auto'. When I gave the mobo 1.35v on Vcore and 1.39... for NB, everytime I tried to boot it'd bluescreen. I can try boosting the NB voltage again though, this time not specifying the Vcore (it gives it fine automatically) and with the pencilmod.

Is Speedstepping Enabled? Also, i personally would rather just up the Vcore instead of a Pencil if your not trying to get a high overclock. I have done the pencil on this board and it worked fine, i just would not suggest doing it if your just needing a little more Vcore. If you do not have an aftermarket Heatsink on the NB i would not go over 1.39.

Thanks for clearing that up Marsey99, i have never heard of .5 multis.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccarey13* 
so my calculations are right, 8.5 is my max multiplier. If i am right, why does it refuse to boot up whenever I make a change to the FSB? Even changing it from 1333 to 1400 it wouldn't start.

Does it post or just it just restart? Have you tried upping the voltage?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


If instead of upping the Vcore, I did the pencil mod, would that be fine? As for my NB, its running at 'Auto'. When I gave the mobo 1.35v on Vcore and 1.39... for NB, everytime I tried to boot it'd bluescreen. I can try boosting the NB voltage again though, this time not specifying the Vcore (it gives it fine automatically) and with the pencilmod.
RAM Timings are fine AFAIK. It passed 9hr memtest86 with no errorz at 5-5-5-18 and 800mhz (exactly what the manufacturer specs are.)

The beep came from the motherboard, although I have yet to figure out exactly where from (NOT from my speakers). The soundcard isn't the cause of the issue - I still get the weird, ulgy, frustrating, despicable, putrid (well, putrid doesnt rly describe it) crashes without it.

Anyways, I'll try the above when I get home, thanks for the help so far!


No pencil mod. It wasn't entirely stable when I did it. Vdroop is there for a reason...there's some extensive research on it somewhere, but I don't have the link atm.

As for the beep...idk where it would come from, as this mobo doesn't have a speaker lol.

If you do find where it came from, that could be the component causing your instability.

Edit: Try disconnecting everything except you cpu, ram, gfx, psu, primary hardrive, mouse, keyboard, cooling, and see if it is still stable. Then one by one connect things until it starts crashing again, and you will have the culprit...unless it crashes even with basic components.

Also, does it crash immediately upon using orthos? Or is it only in games? Maybe use ati-tool artifact scanner to see if the gpu is faulty?


----------



## Butterbum

Hurm. When i tried entering the proper ram timings into the bios, on reboot the computer would just beep for about 4 seconds and refuse to turn on?

The correct timings for my ram are 4-4-4-15. Any ideas?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Perhaps your timings are just too tight for the ram to be stable with whatever voltage you gave it.

@Gauvenator: I'm running on that basic hardware, and I still have the crashes. It does not crash immediately with orthos. How long should I let ATi Tool run for it to be a pretty good indication of no bad gfx card?

Also: I tried boosting my CPU voltage, so I selected the 1.3625 option under Vcore. Upon reboot and entering setup, under the Hardware monitor section I found that my CPU was getting 1.28v,(and seeing as its in BIOS,) on idle. That's like, out of spec. for a QX6850.

edit: @ gauvenator: I read somewhere that vdroop is there b/c its hard (read: expensive) to manufacture a board with components that will keep the voltage constant, or something like that. I may just be plain wrong tho, dont take ma word on it









edit2: @ 3rdworld: speedstepping is not enabled, but i still had the crashes when it was.


----------



## Grizzly Adams

***solved


----------



## deltaepsylon

Ok,
I set my CPU Vcore to 1.3250 or whatever, and gave it the 100mV boost. At idle, Everest was reading 1.39v or so. In game (CoD4) it was fluctuating between 1.28, 1.34 and 1.37, while mostly spending time at 1.34-1.37 range. The fact that i ran at this range for around 10 minutes or so makes me think that the CPU voltage is in fact fine and not the cause of the problem.

I removed the soundcard I had in my computer, and I still get the long beeps. The thing is, they're too high-pitched to locate properly, but Its coming from the lower right corner of the board. ONly things in my case are PSU, 8800GTX, processor, ram sticks, and P5N-E SLI. the graphcis card doesn't have a speaker, PSU isn't in the lower right hand corner, RAM has no speakers, ditto with processor. So the P5NE's gotta have a speaker of some sort 0_o


----------



## Vanorge

heya guys.. im building a pc for a friend. and the mobo is a asus pn32e sli. i seem to be having some concerns. one and most of all is that i overclocked a q6600 to 3.0 with 1.325 v on bios.. but its showing 1.63volts on cpuz. ive never had a jump like that .. whats weird is it's on air cooling and temps are good. just wondering if there is anything i missed. or is there a nother program i should look up .. also i keep getting warnings of vtt 3.3v on asus probe whats that about if you can have any answers for me be appreciated..


----------



## deltaepsylon

What kind of warnings does Asus Probe give? Like, does the 3.3 voltage drop low or something?
About the CPU voltage: go into your bios and under hardware monitor check to see what voltage the CPU is getting.


----------



## Vanorge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Ok,
I set my CPU Vcore to 1.3250 or whatever, and gave it the 100mV boost. At idle, Everest was reading 1.39v or so. In game (CoD4) it was fluctuating between 1.28, 1.34 and 1.37, while mostly spending time at 1.34-1.37 range. The fact that i ran at this range for around 10 minutes or so makes me think that the CPU voltage is in fact fine and not the cause of the problem.

I removed the soundcard I had in my computer, and I still get the long beeps. The thing is, they're too high-pitched to locate properly, but Its coming from the lower right corner of the board. ONly things in my case are PSU, 8800GTX, processor, ram sticks, and P5N-E SLI. the graphcis card doesn't have a speaker, PSU isn't in the lower right hand corner, RAM has no speakers, ditto with processor. So the P5NE's gotta have a speaker of some sort 0_o



probly one of you warinings in bios try disabling them .. fan speed and such.. if you levels are okay.. somtimes they flake


----------



## Vanorge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


What kind of warnings does Asus Probe give? Like, does the 3.3 voltage drop low or something?
About the CPU voltage: go into your bios and under hardware monitor check to see what voltage the CPU is getting.


i'll put up a screenie in a sec


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vanorge*


probly one of you warinings in bios try disabling them .. fan speed and such.. if you levels are okay.. somtimes they flake


I dont care so much about the sound as the fact that it usually happens after I've had an instant power off crash (during games). These usually happen 10-20 minutes in game.
But crap man, it seems that nobody knows what I can do to help fix my computer.

edit: Whoa, ***. When I tried to run ATi Tool to test my graphics card for bad-ness, ATi tool says that my vid card isn't used by windows, and that I should enable monitor output first. But it most definitely _is_ being used, or I wouldn't be able to see this text....


----------



## Vanorge

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


What kind of warnings does Asus Probe give? Like, does the 3.3 voltage drop low or something?
About the CPU voltage: go into your bios and under hardware monitor check to see what voltage the CPU is getting.


pics off issue

volts are all over the place .. i only put 1.325 on cpu, 1.55 to vtt, and 2.175 to ddr


----------



## Vanorge

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
I dont care so much about the sound as the fact that it usually happens after I've had an instant power off crash (during games). These usually happen 10-20 minutes in game.
But crap man, it seems that nobody knows what I can do to help fix my computer.

edit: Whoa, ***. When I tried to run ATi Tool to test my graphics card for bad-ness, ATi tool says that my vid card isn't used by windows, and that I should enable monitor output first. But it most definitely _is_ being used, or I wouldn't be able to see this text....

i would load setup defaults .. test to see if it is a hardware issue. if it's not ...then overclock all over again.. to be honest ..dont know if somthing got screwed up.


----------



## deltaepsylon

I'm not overclocked at all, I'm just some random guy trying to get his computer to run *stable*. I bought a friggin gaming machine to play games, not surf the web with C1E all day.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


I'm not overclocked at all, I'm just some random guy trying to get his computer to run *stable*. I bought a friggin gaming machine to play games, not surf the web with C1E all day.


It's a bit of a long shot but what BIOS are you running?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Bios 0608.
I ran ATi Tool - Scan for artifacts. No artifacts for 20 min or so, the whole time the card was at 80C. I killed ATI tool, it'd proven its point and the fuzzy cube gets boring









But then I ran orthos. 2 instances of the dual-core version, each with affinity set to cores 1/2 and 3/4. After 2min 30sumthin seconds, the 4th core got an Illegal Summout or whatnot, so I stopped the tests there.

I proceeded to relaunch the tests, and I got the crash that I usually have when in games! So I think its pointing towards faulty RAM or CPU, but seeing as RAM has survived several memtest hours, perhaps the CPU is effed...?
Anyways, what where you going to suggest Perry? you said it was something of a long shot, but I'm prettymuch willing to try anything now =/


----------



## Awesome

Anyone want to explain to me why my machine is actually running stable? I put in some random numbers out of frustration and it posted........ and nearly after nearly 30 mins Orthos has still not managed to crash it. I think I'm running 1.5v NB, and I do have the CPU at 1.5v. The CPU is drooping as low as 1.39. I only think that the NB is at 1.5 because I haven't rebooted to make sure... and I don't wanna interrupt Orthos.


----------



## SickStew

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
I'm not overclocked at all, I'm just some random guy trying to get his computer to run *stable*. I bought a friggin gaming machine to play games, not surf the web with C1E all day.

Why did you buy a Xtreme processor if you are not overclocking they have the unlocked multi which is great for overclock you could of got a Q6700 (overclock to 3gig easy) that will perform the same as the QX series (not Overclocked)









Even my Q6600 is only 190MHz slower than your QX6850 Series and even the Q6600 can reach 3 gig on this broad.


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Bios 0608.
I ran ATi Tool - Scan for artifacts. No artifacts for 20 min or so, the whole time the card was at 80C. I killed ATI tool, it'd proven its point and the fuzzy cube gets boring









But then I ran orthos. 2 instances of the dual-core version, each with affinity set to cores 1/2 and 3/4. After 2min 30sumthin seconds, the 4th core got an Illegal Summout or whatnot, so I stopped the tests there.

I proceeded to relaunch the tests, and I got the crash that I usually have when in games! So I think its pointing towards faulty RAM or CPU, but seeing as RAM has survived several memtest hours, perhaps the CPU is effed...?
Anyways, what where you going to suggest Perry? you said it was something of a long shot, but I'm prettymuch willing to try anything now =/


BINGO!

According to Asus your CPU is supported by BIOS 0703 and forward. 0608 was developed and released before QX6850 support was worked in. While it may be able to support your CPU it probably isn't doing it as well as it should and I think what you've described outlines that pretty well.

Now I don't know what is the best BIOS to use since I'm sitting comfy with 0608 so maybe someone else using a newer one can shed some light on which will provide maximum stability.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SickStew*


Why did you buy a Xtreme processor if you are not overclocking they have the unlocked multi...


I AM going to overclock, but how can I expect it to be stable if I cant get it to run stable at stock speeds?!?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


BINGO!

According to Asus your CPU is supported by BIOS 0703 and forward. 0608 was developed and released before QX6850 support was worked in. While it may be able to support your CPU it probably isn't doing it as well as it should and I think what you've described outlines that pretty well.

Now I don't know what is the best BIOS to use since I'm sitting comfy with 0608 so maybe someone else using a newer one can shed some light on which will provide maximum stability.


Sweet! Thats a possible explanation to the problem. Ill upgrade the bios and then try stresstesting everything again.
Should I upgrade to 0703 or just go to the latest one while I'm at it?


----------



## Perry

To be honest I'd say go with 0703 because I haven't had any luck down grading a BIOS and frankly the possibility of messing it up scares the crap out of me since funds are tight right now. If I had to replace a motherboard my wife would probably try to kill me...and that's the best case scenerio.


----------



## deltaepsylon

lol k. I dont have a wife, but my gf might do me in... not that she controls my expenses though









edit: great. the asus servers are crap, I cant download 0703. Any chance you have it 'n could give it to me?


----------



## Perry

Yeah, if I go after downloads the logical way it says that the site is down for maintenance. Try clicking support at the top and then choosing your category (motherboards), your motherboard type (Socket LGA775) and then chose your motherboard (P5N-E SLI - obviously). You should then get to the same downloads page as you normally would if you were to search for your motherboard from the main page - the way most people would do it.

Just click on BIOS and you'll be presented with all of the different versions.

***EDIT***
Oh, I just realized I still have the tab open in Firefox.

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us

Try that. If you can't get to it by using this link then try the method I mentioned above.


----------



## marsey99

awsome its the world of nvidia and their fsb blackholes









delta you wont get much of a oc from a quad and this board m8, it cant susstain the power delivery to 4 cores if they get loaded when clocked.

you would be better pairing this board with a good clocking duo and putting the qx in a higher end board, well atleast 1 with more than 3 power regs.

edit

last i played with was 0803 and 0901 and both we just as stable and had the same clocking ability as the other but that was with my 8200.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Well, what board do you suggest? I prolly wont be getting one in the near future, but who knows, maybe I'll somehow find some massive ammount of money on the street









@perry: i got the bios off of ftp.asus.com, but I dont have the flashing utility yet. I'll get that this afternoon and see what gives.


----------



## marsey99

dfi p35 dk? they seem to do well with quads.

if you wanted to stay sli i would say a 790 is your best bet as they have the newest nvidia chipset and should be cool with any cpu that fits.

might be easier to get a 8400 or 7200 and run that about 3.8ghz in this board.

you can flash from in xp or just save the bios image onto a flash drive and do it thru the bios util ez flash.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
dfi p35 dk? they seem to do well with quads.

if you wanted to stay sli i would say a 790 is your best bet as they have the newest nvidia chipset and should be cool with any cpu that fits.

might be easier to get a 8400 or 7200 and run that about 3.8ghz in this board.

you can flash from in xp or just save the bios image onto a flash drive and do it thru the bios util ez flash.

There are some people who will only flash a BIOS by using the command line utility but I have had no problems flashing my BIOS using the Windows based tool. Just make sure you shut down everything that isn't needed because if something causes a crash while you're in the middle of your flash your board is pooched.

For options though what about the 750i boards for a lower cost SLI alternative? I haven't really read up on those boards but if they are anything like the whole 650i vs 680i scenerio of a year and a half ago it should provide a good solid board capable of handle the power requirements of quad cores.

As suggested a DFI P35 DK is a great, lower cost alternative but you won't find a dual video card solution on it (that I know of). The Asus P5Q may also be an option and only a few bucks more expensive than the DFI model mentioned.

Now there is someone on OCN that has managed to get their quad up to 3Ghz but I think they have some serious aftermarket cooling on the northbridge, southbridge and CPU to combat the excessive voltages/heat needed to hit that speed. It's not impossible but I doubt it's easy.


----------



## marsey99

the 750 is just this board with pcie 2 slots and better bios options, it still has the same performance/clocking ceilings but the newwer chipsets seem to go a bit higher.


----------



## deltaepsylon

@perry: hehe. _im_ on 3ghz, just that its not OC'd. idk, I think perhaps I'll target like, 3.5 ghz, maybe go to 4 if it comes out nice. I might b able to convince my parents to get me a new mobo, but thats a long shot. For now, I'm going to cannibalize heatsinks from old graphics cards and CPU's, and stick that onto my NB and SB. Currently my NB has stock heatsink reseated with Tuniq TX-2, and has a 120 mm fan that blows at it but most of that airflow gets sucked up by the Ultra-120 air intake. My SB has a puny copper heatsink with a 35mm fan. That thing is so tiny I feel ima break the damn thing. So yeah, I'll get some heatsink from an old ATI card i have laying around, and maybe go to a computer junk place and get some more stuff.

On second thought, perhaps I should purchase like 200 120mm fans and make a case outta that. Aluminum Alloy frame (some rectangle and a place to put the psu) and have the rest be fans!!!
that'd be sweet, prolly get like 26C on my temps









but first, gotta get it stable.
delta out.


----------



## dasparx

Hmmz, got this board in a trade, fresh one from a friends RMA.
It should arrive tomorrow, ill keep ya guys updated








Hope i can get my E1400 to 3Ghz+


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
@perry: hehe. _im_ on 3ghz, just that its not OC'd. idk, I think perhaps I'll target like, 3.5 ghz, maybe go to 4 if it comes out nice. I might b able to convince my parents to get me a new mobo, but thats a long shot. For now, I'm going to cannibalize heatsinks from old graphics cards and CPU's, and stick that onto my NB and SB. Currently my NB has stock heatsink reseated with Tuniq TX-2, and has a 120 mm fan that blows at it but most of that airflow gets sucked up by the Ultra-120 air intake. My SB has a puny copper heatsink with a 35mm fan. That thing is so tiny I feel ima break the damn thing. So yeah, I'll get some heatsink from an old ATI card i have laying around, and maybe go to a computer junk place and get some more stuff.

On second thought, perhaps I should purchase like 200 120mm fans and make a case outta that. Aluminum Alloy frame (some rectangle and a place to put the psu) and have the rest be fans!!!
that'd be sweet, prolly get like 26C on my temps









but first, gotta get it stable.
delta out.

Your already at the max this board can handle.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Your already at the max this board can handle.


Ooh, you make me just wanna up my FSB by a tad...lol first I gotta get stable on stock.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Ooh, you make me just wanna up my FSB by a tad...lol first I gotta get stable on stock.


Once it's stabilized, try upping the multi to see if that can allow one to exceed 3ghz on this board.


----------



## Awesome

Heh... after 40 mins on Orthos my computer froze last night. It couldn't take the 10:13 divider after all. I don't want to put my voltages higher than 1.5 on the CPU, so I can't get an overclock stable over 3.4 Ghz... if I upped it more I could get stable on 3.6-3.8, but I don't want to be using almost 1.6 volts. So... now I am trying 3.4 Ghz @ 1.5v, 1.7 Ghz FSB @ 1.58v, 1020 Mhz RAM @ 2.17v.

EDIT: Alright! It's stable!!


----------



## marsey99

you running the vcore offset?

what do your volts do under load?

better cooling helps all around.


----------



## Awesome

Me? No, not running the offset. My CPU voltage is 1.49-1.46 when idle, usually sticks around 1.41 when under heavy load. I have no way to test my mem or NB voltage. And yeah, I have great cooling. Now if I can get my new GPU cooler working correctly... anyone know how to do that? :d


----------



## Grizzly Adams

I just overclocked my E8300 to 3.6ghz. In bios I set the VCore to 1.25v, but in CPUZ it only shows 1.2v, why is that? Is 38 degrees idle and okay temperature? 41-42 load


----------



## Awesome

CPU-Z almost never displays the correct voltage. Just ignore it. Anything below 60c is generally good, so yeah, you're golden.


----------



## Gauvenator

I'm going to be putting this board in another computer and it won't be overclocked, but I will be running the nb at 1.393v. Can the stock heatsink handle it? I want to take off my hr-05 because I might need it for my current mobo.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I'm going to be putting this board in another computer and it won't be overclocked, but I will be running the nb at 1.393v. Can the stock heatsink handle it? I want to take off my hr-05 because I might need it for my current mobo.

1.39v is fine. Mine has been running that way since the day I put it in and that's been over 9 months. I doubt I'd recommend 1.56v though...although I'm tempted to try it since my CPU is stuck at 3Ghz and my memory at 960mhz.

My main concern right now though is to get deltaepsylon stock system stable. Hopefully that BIOS will do the trick.

ccarey13, as Awesome said CPU-Z is not a good indicator of voltage. In fact the new version of CPU-Z now displays the VID where the voltage used to be. I'd grab Asus Probe, Everest or HWMonitor although HWMonitor shows my voltage up over 1.5v but read it properly in XP when that was my main OS so maybe it's a Vista exclusive issue. Everest however confirms everything that Asus Probe does so I'd say Probe is a safe bet.

***EDIT***
Ok, I'm feeling saucey. This weekend it's time to try for 4Ghz with my E2180. I know there's a massive FSB hole with this board so I'm going to try to blast through it. That means I'm going to keep the the FSB:memory ratio to 1:2, loosen up the timings, jump the northbridge to 1.56v (on stock cooling - yikes!) and see what a vcore of 1.5v will do. Assuming my temperatures stay in check I may go beyond 1.5v but I'm a wee bit afraid of what may happen. Right now I sit with about 42 degrees under full load so I still have about 30 degrees to play with based on what Intel tells me. Good thing this processor only ran me $50 after MIR!

If I come back tomorrow to post about it then I guess we know it worked and I'll have some proof whether it's stable or not.

To be honest I can't see it working and if it does my temperatures will be out of this world. I'd like to hit 3.7Ghz to match Linskingdom though.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Ok, so I got the new BIOS, 0703. At first, comp wouldn't even post (right after a 'successful' flash). Took out battery, did the jumper thingy, then it worked nice. Ok, so that parts done.
Then I opened up 2 copies of orthos and set up the affinities so that it would stress all four cores. At 7 seconds into the test, it bluescreened with 0xA. Restarted, logged in again, same test, this time I bluescreened with IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQAL 0xD1. I also got a 0x8E somewhere along there. So basically, I haven't had the crashes I used to, but because the computer doesnt live long enough to have the crashes. I'm lost for real now 0.o

edit: I'm still running on the minimum hardware necessary right now, in case any1 was wondering.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Ok, so I got the new BIOS, 0703. At first, comp wouldn't even post (right after a 'successful' flash). Took out battery, did the jumper thingy, then it worked nice. Ok, so that parts done.
Then I opened up 2 copies of orthos and set up the affinities so that it would stress all four cores. At 7 seconds into the test, it bluescreened with 0xA. Restarted, logged in again, same test, this time I bluescreened with IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQAL 0xD1. I also got a 0x8E somewhere along there. So basically, I haven't had the crashes I used to, but because the computer doesnt live long enough to have the crashes. I'm lost for real now 0.o

edit: I'm still running on the minimum hardware necessary right now, in case any1 was wondering.


Just to see if the board is limiting you, try turning your multiplier down one. Then see if it is stable.

Just try it plz. Most people can't get a quad to 3ghz on this board, and yours is at 3. This will help eliminate your cpu being defective.


----------



## LTSMASH

The TRUE is a compatible heatsink with the P5N-E SLI


----------



## deltaepsylon

No need to beg me to do anything, I'm pretty much willing to do everything but take a hammer to the mobo. I'll try it now.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *LTSMASH*


The TRUE is a compatible heatsink with the P5N-E SLI


Uh, yeah, bit of a random statement tho... forgive me if I missed some other post.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


No need to beg me to do anything, I'm pretty much willing to do everything but take a hammer to the mobo. I'll try it now.










haha ok, I just thought you might blow it off because you would be underclocking


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Ok, so I got the new BIOS, 0703. At first, comp wouldn't even post (right after a 'successful' flash). Took out battery, did the jumper thingy, then it worked nice. Ok, so that parts done.
Then I opened up 2 copies of orthos and set up the affinities so that it would stress all four cores. At 7 seconds into the test, it bluescreened with 0xA. Restarted, logged in again, same test, this time I bluescreened with IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQAL 0xD1. I also got a 0x8E somewhere along there. So basically, I haven't had the crashes I used to, but because the computer doesnt live long enough to have the crashes. I'm lost for real now 0.o

edit: I'm still running on the minimum hardware necessary right now, in case any1 was wondering.


Does the BSOD give you any other information such as XXXX.sys?

Normally 0xD1 is related to memory, which this board can be notoriously picky about. The other error I'm not sure about. So far my searches have come up empty.

It may be like pulling teeth but Asus tech support may be the way to go.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Well, I've gotten a 0x24 with an NTFS.sys BSOD, several 0x8E's, a couple 0x7(F or E cant remember)'s, and general instability.The crash that I was originally getting now occurred once at startup, wich makes me think its not related to temps or vdroop.Peraps it picky RAM; I've got some Mushkin thats not on the QVL.
When I dropped my multi from 9 to 8 it became a helluva lot more unstable, so I've raised the multi back up to 9. Im going to test my comp at 667mhz ram. I'd really like to be able to go with 800mhz ram, but if it wont work I'll just have to live with 667. =/

edit: wow, with ram at 667 and 0703 I was actually able to log in now!
edit2: it takes longer to log in now (from the time i enter pass to time on desktop.)
edit3: yay: orthos has lived more than 30 seconds so far. still testing. This BIOS seems to be pickier with ram. The ram is at loose timings right now, usually 5-5-5-18 was used for 800 mhz but thats what im running with at 667
edit4: my cpu is etting like 1.18 volts right now (load) ! its meant to get 1.35. At idle, it was getting like 1.29. but it still lives, im at 2 minutes right now. I also might end up breaking the most edited post record








edit5: how good is asus tek support? by the tooth pulling analogy, i take it it isnt very good.... *shudder*
edit6: hmm, orthos has lived for 7 and my temps are 60C on the highest core, with the case side open. I think I'll run a memtest tonight to see how 0703 reacts to my ram at 800mhz.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Well, I've gotten a 0x24 with an NTFS.sys BSOD, several 0x8E's, a couple 0x7(F or E cant remember)'s, and general instability.The crash that I was originally getting now occurred once at startup, wich makes me think its not related to temps or vdroop.Peraps it picky RAM; I've got some Mushkin thats not on the QVL.
When I dropped my multi from 9 to 8 it became a helluva lot more unstable, so I've raised the multi back up to 9. Im going to test my comp at 667mhz ram. I'd really like to be able to go with 800mhz ram, but if it wont work I'll just have to live with 667. =/

edit: wow, with ram at 667 and 0703 I was actually able to log in now!
edit2: it takes longer to log in now (from the time i enter pass to time on desktop.)
edit3: yay: orthos has lived more than 30 seconds so far. still testing. This BIOS seems to be pickier with ram. The ram is at loose timings right now, usually 5-5-5-18 was used for 800 mhz but thats what im running with at 667
edit4: my cpu is etting like 1.18 volts right now (load) ! its meant to get 1.35. At idle, it was getting like 1.29. but it still lives, im at 2 minutes right now. I also might end up breaking the most edited post record








edit5: how good is asus tek support? by the tooth pulling analogy, i take it it isnt very good.... *shudder*


Wow, glad you got it working so far. Definitely replace that ram dewd.

But now that it works...I'm curious how far your cpu will go with this board?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Now now, guv'ner, lets not jump to conclusions. I'm able to log in now, but I was able to do that b4. I've gotta do real life game testing now, but I cant do that now 'cause my parents are yellin' 'bout it being late 'n all that. It's living thru the stress-tests, but perhaps it'll still crap out on me in CoD4 and the like.

The CPU is running at 3ghz right now, with 1333FSB and 9 as multi. Maybe I can lower the FSB and raise the multi to get some marginal FSB increase. Might also wanna try tuning the PCI-E Frequency, but I'm not too knowledgable about that.
Edit: 10 minutes on orthos, thats the longest its ever lived! I think this is finally gonna work!!!!
Ima like, 5x +rep everyone who helped me in at least 2 posts








edit2: orthos alive for 12 min!!!!
edit3: ok I need to stop posting about ortho's life, if its gonna be testing for a dozen hours this thread is gonna get rly long....


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Now now, guv'ner, lets not jump to conclusions. I'm able to log in now, but I was able to do that b4. I've gotta do real life game testing now, but I cant do that now 'cause my parents are yellin' 'bout it being late 'n all that. It's living thru the stress-tests, but perhaps it'll still crap out on me in CoD4 and the like.

The CPU is running at 3ghz right now, with 1333FSB and 9 as multi. Maybe I can lower the FSB and raise the multi to get some marginal FSB increase. Might also wanna try tuning the PCI-E Frequency, but I'm not too knowledgable about that.


How long has it been in orthos?
nah leave the pci frequency at 100, you don't wanna kill the gpu.


----------



## deltaepsylon

14 min orthos so far, temps for each core are at like 61-61-58-58 k as read by everest. taskmgr.exe reads processor usage at 100% for each core. Which reminds me, my dads lab has a killer computer with 8 cores (2x 4core xeons). but thats offtopic =P
edit 15 min orthos alive still. ima go shower and update after that xD


----------



## deltaepsylon

Ok, when orthos was at like 17min 50sumthin secs, i opened firefox and I got the crash that I get in games (the one that's as if someone had unplugged the power cord, then plugged it back in and rebooted.) But thats a definite improvement over a 2:30 orthos time.


----------



## deltaepsylon

whoa, my bios logo screen stays on the screen for <2 seconds 0.o. And I dont seem to be able to boot from CD, even If I press F8 while posting or set the boot priority to do CD first. ***?
edit: nvm, got cd boot to work. Memtesting at 667 right now.
crap, idk if I can get new ram, I'm on a tight budget ATM. Did u suggest new ram b/c of faulty module, or b/c its not on the QVL list?


----------



## Valerium

Out of desperation, I post here, in the hopes of maybe getting some answers.

I've been using this for almost exactly 1 year, and all was fine up to 2 months ago, when I started having games freezing, with sound looping. The screen either freezes or what happens lately is the screen turns off, as in the monitor gives the no signal message, but sound still loops, only way to get rid of it is to reboot.

I fixed it for a while, by removing 1 ram stick (using 2x 1024 mb sticks) but it crashed today with 1 stick which it hadn't done before, I bought some new ram but seems to happen with that ram as well, so doubt it's ram anymore.

I've been thinking, maybe it's the motherboard itself. Is 57 degrees celsius too hot for this MB? Could that cause the system freezing? like I said the system worked fine for like 10 months, then started happening all of a sudden.

It only happens in games, and only after long sessions, somewhere between 3-10 hours.

Specs:

Asus P5N-E Sli
C2D 6600
2x 1024 buffalo ram, the other ram is corsair
XFX 8800 GTS 320 MB
Zalman 600w PSU

GPU gets around 80c under stress, MB 57 under stress, CPU 44 under stress, HD stay pretty static around 38

Any idea appreciated, I'm sick and tired of this and just want to play games without having to worry about when the next crash is.


----------



## Awesome

Valerium, at 80c you are going to KILL your GPU, and at 57c you are going to KILL your mobo. Dude, get better cooling. You are FRYING that stuff. Delta, what's your FSB:RAM ratio?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
whoa, my bios logo screen stays on the screen for <2 seconds 0.o. And I dont seem to be able to boot from CD, even If I press F8 while posting or set the boot priority to do CD first. ***?
edit: nvm, got cd boot to work. Memtesting at 667 right now.
crap, idk if I can get new ram, I'm on a tight budget ATM. Did u suggest new ram b/c of faulty module, or b/c its not on the QVL list?

I suggested new ram because yours doesn't seem to be working with this mobo. The new stuff doesn't have to be qvl, just something that is known to work. But if you're on a tight budget...maybe you can sell it first, then buy new stuff, or arrange a trade.


----------



## raven117

i was thinking of getting a new northbridge for myself but i dont know if this will fit. Valerium it might be a good idea for you to invest in one of these.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116018


----------



## Awesome

It fits and it works REALLY well.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Valerium* 
Out of desperation, I post here, in the hopes of maybe getting some answers.

I've been using this for almost exactly 1 year, and all was fine up to 2 months ago, when I started having games freezing, with sound looping. The screen either freezes or what happens lately is the screen turns off, as in the monitor gives the no signal message, but sound still loops, only way to get rid of it is to reboot.

I fixed it for a while, by removing 1 ram stick (using 2x 1024 mb sticks) but it crashed today with 1 stick which it hadn't done before, I bought some new ram but seems to happen with that ram as well, so doubt it's ram anymore.

I've been thinking, maybe it's the motherboard itself. Is 57 degrees celsius too hot for this MB? Could that cause the system freezing? like I said the system worked fine for like 10 months, then started happening all of a sudden.

It only happens in games, and only after long sessions, somewhere between 3-10 hours.

Specs:

Asus P5N-E Sli
C2D 6600
2x 1024 buffalo ram, the other ram is corsair
XFX 8800 GTS 320 MB
Zalman 600w PSU

GPU gets around 80c under stress, MB 57 under stress, CPU 44 under stress, HD stay pretty static around 38

Any idea appreciated, I'm sick and tired of this and just want to play games without having to worry about when the next crash is.

Sounds like a heat issue. Are you overclocking the Processor or GPU? Also what tool are you using to measure temp?


----------



## High Roller

A couple of weeks ago, I was installing XP again and everything was going fine. I fully installed XP and all my driver and programs, and went to reboot it. It froze on the logoff screen and I decided the only thing to do was to press the reset button.
However, it failed to do anything! There was no BIOS post screen. I hadent been inside it for over two weeks and I hadent kicked it or anything else. It just appeared to die on me

I also hadnt had it overclocked for quite some time and the temps were ice cold anyway.
Is there a way to fix this, or is the Asus well and truely kaputt?

Im using a XP2000 with 256 mb of ram at the moment and its killing me


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Valerium* 
Out of desperation, I post here, in the hopes of maybe getting some answers.

I've been using this for almost exactly 1 year, and all was fine up to 2 months ago, when I started having games freezing, with sound looping. The screen either freezes or what happens lately is the screen turns off, as in the monitor gives the no signal message, but sound still loops, only way to get rid of it is to reboot.

I fixed it for a while, by removing 1 ram stick (using 2x 1024 mb sticks) but it crashed today with 1 stick which it hadn't done before, I bought some new ram but seems to happen with that ram as well, so doubt it's ram anymore.

I've been thinking, maybe it's the motherboard itself. Is 57 degrees celsius too hot for this MB? Could that cause the system freezing? like I said the system worked fine for like 10 months, then started happening all of a sudden.

It only happens in games, and only after long sessions, somewhere between 3-10 hours.

Specs:

Asus P5N-E Sli
C2D 6600
2x 1024 buffalo ram, the other ram is corsair
XFX 8800 GTS 320 MB
Zalman 600w PSU

GPU gets around 80c under stress, MB 57 under stress, CPU 44 under stress, HD stay pretty static around 38

Any idea appreciated, I'm sick and tired of this and just want to play games without having to worry about when the next crash is.

Try bumping your vcore up one notch. I had a similar problem and that helped.


----------



## deltaepsylon

@ high roller:
Try taking out the CMOS battery, then switch the jumpercap on the 3 pin jumper near the lower right hand fan connector to pins 2-3 for 5-10 seconds, then switch it back to the origianl position. All of the above, with the power cable disconnected.
@ awsome: 1:1. FSb is 1333, ram is 667


----------



## High Roller

Thanks for your reply deltaespylon. I have done that, Its still acting the same, - dead.

Ive took out all the cards and reseated them, blew off the dust (if it helps, cos there was only a tiny bit).

Incidentally, i plugged the cable back in while the cmos jumper was still in the reset position and the power supply kicked in, I thought that wasnt meant to happen - - - I'm coming to terms with the fact its dead - I was gonna get a new mobo so i could get to 3.4 at least
I wanted to sell this P5N-e cos i got a Pen D 915 and the 7600GS needs a new home when i get a new GPU... guess thats not happening


----------



## Awesome

High Roller, the point of the jumper is that it's discharging all power from the board to get rid of the memory. Plugging your PSU in totally defeats that. I'd try it again and don't plug it in this time. 
Delta, is your ram at the lowest voltage setting?


----------



## Valerium

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Try bumping your vcore up one notch. I had a similar problem and that helped.


What should it be at? I've had it on auto all this time.


----------



## deltaepsylon

@awesome, RAM is at auto voltage (its rated for 1.8). I still get crashes when manually set to 1.9x tho.
@highroller: definitely try again without the psu turning on. It wont work if it there's any power to the system.


----------



## High Roller

ok, just so u guys know, i left the power cable out for quite some time. with the cmos on reset.

I plugged the cable back in, but id forgot to put the cmos back to normal mode. Thats when the power auto- came on. In my experience with cmos jumpers in the past - that should not have happened. even pressing the power switch when the cmos is in reset prevents the system from powering up. I could be incorrect... but if this is bypassed, i get no bios post, and clearing cmos doesnt work, whats left to try?

does it imply that my motherboard is beyond repair?

I hope theres another solution


----------



## SSJVegeta

I've had my system stable for quite some time but the CPU is at 3.4GHz with a 10x multi.

I tried a 8x multi since the memory bandwidth increases with a higher FSB and the system is still stable but the strange problem is that when the PC is powered down for some time and I switch it on, it doesn't show any bios or anything which is what it usually does if the setting is incorrect or unsupported by CPU/MOBO/RAM but if I switch it off and then back on after 10 seconds, enter the BIOS, save settings and then restart then it loads up just fine.

The BIOS I'm using is 0608 and settings are being saved. If I run at the 10x multi then the PC is fine.

Is this a bios issue with version 0608 or something I'm not grasping here?









The northbridge voltage is already at 1.56v.


----------



## marsey99

i had a mad thing with mine where if i would save a setting to profile and restart with the same settings it would hang on post even if it had been working like that for days.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *High Roller*


ok, just so u guys know, i left the power cable out for quite some time. with the cmos on reset.

I plugged the cable back in, but id forgot to put the cmos back to normal mode. Thats when the power auto- came on. In my experience with cmos jumpers in the past - that should not have happened. even pressing the power switch when the cmos is in reset prevents the system from powering up. I could be incorrect... but if this is bypassed, i get no bios post, and clearing cmos doesnt work, whats left to try?

does it imply that my motherboard is beyond repair?

I hope theres another solution


I done quite understand what you did. Do exactly the following:
1. Unplug Power cable from PSU and wait for the green mobo LED to turn off (~10 seconds)
2. Remove the mother board's battery.
3. Remove the jumper cap from pins 1-2 and placeit on pins 2-3. 
4. Wait 10 sec or so.
5. Replace jumper onto pins 1-2. 
6 wait a couple of seconds, just to be safe.
7. Place mobo battery back in place.
8.Plug in power cable to PSU.
Turn on comp.

If the above fails, you can still buy a ROM chip off the net, and then self the board.
BTW anyone got any spare DDR2 ram laying around that they don't want?


----------



## High Roller

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
I done quite understand what you did. Do exactly the following:
1. Unplug Power cable from PSU and wait for the green mobo LED to turn off (~10 seconds)
2. Remove the mother board's battery.
3. Remove the jumper cap from pins 1-2 and placeit on pins 2-3.
4. Wait 10 sec or so.
5. Replace jumper onto pins 1-2.
6 wait a couple of seconds, just to be safe.
7. Place mobo battery back in place.
8.Plug in power cable to PSU.
Turn on comp.

If the above fails, you can still buy a ROM chip off the net, and then self the board.
BTW anyone got any spare DDR2 ram laying around that they don't want?

Thanks for taking the time to reply - I guess I was hoping for for some magic cure or at least an explanation. I'd like to think this could be fixed, its as dead as a dodo.

Nothing works on it. No bios post,
Clearing Cmos doesn't make it spring back to life. Or removing the battery.
the HDD light on the front of the case flashes 3 or 4 times then goes off.
It doesnt even beep for diagnotics!
The HDD is silent, like its not running.
the fans attached to the motherboards work, and the power switch is functional - but has to be held down do switch off.
Video is also inactive.

What are these ROM chips you speak of?

Do you think it would be a waste of time considering how dead the board is?

Or is this a Bios issue....

Bear in mind, the whole thing was working fine when I had just installed updates and initiated the mandatory reboot.

Do you have any idea what had caused it? Power supply overload, bios virus...

Thanks again


----------



## deltaepsylon

BIOS virus... never heard of such thing.

Hmm, when you say it died after installing updates, was that, like, a BIOS update? 
ROM Chips- the manual mentions it; something to do with if you ever corrupt the board's ROM, instead of having a dead board you can just buy one and replace the on-board one. 
HDD is silent - can you confirm there's power getting to the HDD? Try a different power supply, if you haven't already. It sorta sounds like the mobo isn't getting power properly, and if the vid card doesnt show anything, perhaps no PCI-E power or the supplemental connection is getting any 'juice'. It might be this.

But if you can confirm its your board, sorry, but I think its pretty much screwed over.

edit: Ok, So I finally tested my system with667 mhz RAM in real games. Lasted like 15-20 min before I got the usual crash.
Worst thing is, I cant even really pinpoint what component is causing the faults!


----------



## butteredtoast

hey, i was just looking for some good memory for this board... currently i have 2x1gb ballistix tracers, though i can't say i like them that much(it scores under a 5 in the vista performance index)... i was wondering if you guys could recommend any good/cheap memory, im looking for probably 4 gigs, preferably some good 2x1gb

thanks


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *butteredtoast* 
hey, i was just looking for some good memory for this board... currently i have 2x1gb ballistix tracers, though i can't say i like them that much(it scores under a 5 in the vista performance index)... i was wondering if you guys could recommend any good/cheap memory, im looking for probably 4 gigs, preferably some good 2x1gb

thanks

Why not get 2x2gb? There are some really good deals on DDR2 G.Skill memory right now at newegg.


----------



## High Roller

BIOS viruses do exist, but they are oldskool and rare, i did a bit of research and they are hard to actually get into BIOS and do damage, mainly due to the fact crashfree bios kicks in and saves the day - anyway, ive ruled that out...
I wasnt doing a bios update, its pretty much common knowledge 0608 is the best one to have with a q6600, and thats what it is...

I'd pulled the tope cover off the psu a couple of weeks before and blew out the dust from the fan - cos it was whirring along with a complete maintenece jobby - and two weeks passed by then this









I hadnt done anything particularly intrusive since then.

I havent ruled out the PSU dying, as soon as i get a 24 pin ill definatley try to rule that out other than say its my motherboard... A new psu would be easier to replace than a mobo. Anyway, thanks for oyur help, ill post when i can do a series of test to figure out what the faulty component is.

Good luck with the probz ur having too.


----------



## Silver_Skull

Hi all,

Can't believe the size of this thread!

I'm just starting out with my first full system build using the P5N-E Sli mobo. One question I have is, I will be replacing the stock NB heatsink with a Thermalright NR-05-Sli heatsink, will it be necessary to lap the heatsink before fitting ?

Another question is, is it worth getting a cooler for the Southbridge?

Cheers


----------



## boggle

Hi guys -
New to the board, obviously, and mostly because I'm having a problem with my board. It will not overclock. Not even 1%.

I've updated to the new 1002 BIOS, which may have something to do with it - however, downgrading to 0902, which I've OC'd my board on before, still didn't allow me to get past POST. It just keeps saying it failed to BOOT and to reset to default or ignore (which I've read means that it was a failed OC). I'm at a loss here, and Google is taking a beating from my scouring of the internet for anyone with a similiar problem/solution. Any advice is appreciated!









Rig:
Intel E6300 1.86gHz
nVidia 9600GT 512MB
2GB G.SKill DDR2-800 RAM (the one listed in the first/second post in this thread that's compatible)
All stock cooling, looking to be replaced - I don't believe temperature would be an immediate issue not allowing me to to OC it, though. At least, not in the BIOS.

Edit: Tried earlier BIOS - 0608, still no go. Wondering if maybe it's a hardware issue, but I see no reason why it would be. This is majorly confusing. It won't let me touch the FSB even 1mHz over without it refusing to BOOT without a POST fail.

Edit 2: I'm confuzzled. I decided to stay at 0608 and tinker for a bit, and on a whim shoved the rated FSB to 1100 (default 1066). It booted fine. (x.x)


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
BIOS virus... never heard of such thing.

Hmm, when you say it died after installing updates, was that, like, a BIOS update?
ROM Chips- the manual mentions it; something to do with if you ever corrupt the board's ROM, instead of having a dead board you can just buy one and replace the on-board one.
HDD is silent - can you confirm there's power getting to the HDD? Try a different power supply, if you haven't already. It sorta sounds like the mobo isn't getting power properly, and if the vid card doesnt show anything, perhaps no PCI-E power or the supplemental connection is getting any 'juice'. It might be this.

But if you can confirm its your board, sorry, but I think its pretty much screwed over.

edit: Ok, So I finally tested my system with667 mhz RAM in real games. Lasted like 15-20 min before I got the usual crash.
Worst thing is, I cant even really pinpoint what component is causing the faults!

Umm...I'm pretty sure the BIOS chip is soldered on to this board. If it isn't that's great news...just in case I screw something up.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Silver_Skull* 
Hi all,

Can't believe the size of this thread!

I'm just starting out with my first full system build using the P5N-E Sli mobo. One question I have is, I will be replacing the stock NB heatsink with a Thermalright NR-05-Sli heatsink, will it be necessary to lap the heatsink before fitting ?

Another question is, is it worth getting a cooler for the Southbridge?

Cheers

When I used this board the HR-05 was great. I didn't lap it, but it could use it (all those ridges lol), although that should not be neccessary for chipset cooling I would think.

I put the heatsink of the cooler master blue ice on the sb to be safe, although most people do not have a hs on it and are fine.


----------



## KHORR

Well I am back in action and I'm currently priming on 3.3, stock vcore and everything. I've got a good feeling about this OC







Hopefully it all goes well. I'll see how high I can run this cpu unlinked, and then maybe loosen the timings and try link it 1:1.


----------



## Silver_Skull

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


When I used this board the HR-05 was great. I didn't lap it, but it could use it (all those ridges lol), although that should not be neccessary for chipset cooling I would think.

I put the heatsink of the cooler master blue ice on the sb to be safe, although most people do not have a hs on it and are fine.


Cheers for that. I was thinking of getting a second HR-05 for the SB (would look nice..most important)


----------



## butteredtoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Why not get 2x2gb? There are some really good deals on DDR2 G.Skill memory right now at newegg.


i've just heard that 4x1gb performs better than 2x2gb... and its not like im planning on getting 8gb of memory anytime soon


----------



## Grizzly Adams

Major problemo, Since I had to reinstall vista I have been having internet problems. I have a great connection for about half the time I am online, then other half I am not connected at all. I downloaded Itunes it kept going around 600Kb/s then it suddenly stopped for 15-20 seconds, then started up again. Visiting websites is spotty, even my google homepage. What is up? I re-re-reinstalled the drivers from Nvidia and still no luck


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccarey13* 
Major problemo, Since I had to reinstall vista I have been having internet problems. I have a great connection for about half the time I am online, then other half I am not connected at all. I downloaded Itunes it kept going around 600Kb/s then it suddenly stopped for 15-20 seconds, then started up again. Visiting websites is spotty, even my google homepage. What is up? I re-re-reinstalled the drivers from Nvidia and still no luck

did you install all of your MOBO drivers?


----------



## dasparx

Ugg,
Cant seem to get SLi working on this mobo..
Put the sli selector on dual, added bridge..
Both cards work seperately..
in hw list, it displays one 9600gso.
And i cant fin an driver option to enable sli.


----------



## dasparx

Okay, the Sli selector card wasnt connected good -.-.
ANyways ,SLi works now, overclocked my cpu. works all fine








But, in some gamesi notice a big performance drop when Sli is enabled.
(@ CSS, 81fps w/ Sli, 125 w/o Sli. @ 1600x1200 everything max.no AA and AF)
Ive tried changing rendering methods, but no fps increase, also i'd like to know wich rendering method works the best..?
ANd my dualscreen setup is with a Matrox dualhead2go


----------



## Perry

I find that only some games are coded to run in SLI properly. Lord Of The Rings Online...not coded well.

It's hit and miss.


----------



## 3rdworld

Has anyone tried the Raid on this board. I am wanting to use this board for my HTPC with 4 hard drives. Has anyone had any issues?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *3rdworld*


Has anyone tried the Raid on this board. I am wanting to use this board for my HTPC with 4 hard drives. Has anyone had any issues?


to set raid on this you have to have the mobo disk in and boot from it i think the only issues my brother had was that he could only set raid 0 couldnt figure out how to set the other options i havent tried and would look into it if i had matching hdd's i have 4 seperate sizes


----------



## Barkers101

Im having problems with this little bugger. I just had to RMA it as i was at my wits end. I received the board last Wednesday. Installed in the same day - all plugged in and ready to boot - green light on motherboard. Push power and Bingo! everything spins and everything lights up, no beeps from motherboard so i think im set to go.

Sadly nothing happens - the bloody thing doesn't even post. It just hangs there everything spinning.
Hmm i think - prolly just some loose cables. So i check every connection and every damn slot. Nothing still no post. So this is where it gets ugly.
This is what i tried next:
Took my GFX card and RAM to work to test
Took my motherboard out and tested on cardboard
Tested PSU in another system
Cleared CMOS - around 15 times...
Borrowed another set of RAM and tested it
Barebonesed the system - just CPU, Mobo, GFX and RAM

Nothing would work - i then read on the Asus forum that alot alot of people are having a similar if not exact problem with this board and the Quad Core Q6600. Seems like they just dont like each other - i would have to pick the motherboard that is bundle with a CPU that it doesn't bond well with







...

I also read - to my dissmay. That this board gives all sorts of problems... though hopefully when i get sent my renewed board it will work like a charm... Hopefully...


----------



## UkGouki

^i had to update bios on my board i had 0403 bios when i got it went to 0608 and it worked like a charm :-/


----------



## dasparx

@ Barkers, my pc takes a while to post too, first it spins up all fans 100%, then after ~40 sec i get a beep and it goes into post


----------



## Barkers101

How do i do that if the system wont Post?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Barkers101*


How do i do that if the system wont Post?


i used my spare cpu updated then swapped out it wouldnt post with my q6600 till i updated the bios if you dont have a spare 775 cpu your s*it out of luck :'(


----------



## Barkers101

I have an old Pentium D... if it doesn't post when i receive my new one i will try booting with that. Though i think its burnt out


----------



## UkGouki

one other thing make sure your clean installing windows if it detects an os already on your hdd previous drivers on the hdd will cause problems only other thing i can think of :-/


----------



## Barkers101

Yeah i did think about that - but surely it would still post - then i could format it in the BIOS by just popping in the Windows disk? would this not work?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Barkers101*


Yeah i did think about that - but surely it would still post - then i could format it in the BIOS by just popping in the Windows disk? would this not work?


yes it should post so you can go straight into bios hit delete etc.. only issue i had on an old board was when i had xp on the hdd it detected it and tried to load drivers from the board i had before caused a bsod learned from that i.e make sure when first installing new mobo have a clean hdd to start fresh etc..:-/


----------



## Barkers101

ooo that means i gotta buy a new HDD - i thought i could just flash it on boot


----------



## Barkers101

Also. How did you update the BIOS? using a floppy or flash drive? and where did you get the update from?


----------



## marsey99

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us


----------



## Armalite

Hi guys, first time post here.

I am writing to ask, as a novice to this stuff, is the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme hard to install on the P5NE-SLI? I have an [email protected], and I'm looking to buy a HD4870 at the end of the month. Now I've been told that my CPU will bottleneck it, and I've been recommend the above CPU cooler. I've never overclocked, or installed anything like this, the most I've done is switch out the Ram and the Video Card, this machine was built by the shop.

Also, will a Corsair HX-520W run the following ok? or will I have to step up to the 620W?

P5NE-SLI
E6600 (hopefully overclocked to at least 3ghz)
HD4870
2GB Ram
Western Digital 320gb HDD

Cheers for any help at all guys =)


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


Hi guys, first time post here.

I am writing to ask, as a novice to this stuff, is the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme hard to install on the P5NE-SLI? I have an [email protected], and I'm looking to buy a HD4870 at the end of the month. Now I've been told that my CPU will bottleneck it, and I've been recommend the above CPU cooler. I've never overclocked, or installed anything like this, the most I've done is switch out the Ram and the Video Card, this machine was built by the shop.

Also, will a Corsair HX-520W run the following ok? or will I have to step up to the 620W?

P5NE-SLI
E6600 (hopefully overclocked to at least 3ghz)
HD4870
2GB Ram
Western Digital 320gb HDD

Cheers for any help at all guys =)


Yes the 120 should work. Not sure about the bottle necking though, if your wanting more performance i would suggest 2 more gb of ram. e6600's are excilent OCers though. I use a Corsair hx-520 on my comp with lots of CC and watercooling. Granted the 4870 uses more power than my 8800 gts but it is a sli approved power supply so you should not have an issue with it. If your planning on picking up another 4870 for crossfire i would go ahead and get the 620 just to be sure, i think there is not much of a price difference anyhow.


----------



## Barkers101

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


^i had to update bios on my board i had 0403 bios when i got it went to 0608 and it worked like a charm :-/


Defently 0608? is that the best update? or should i go higher... say 0803 - sorry i dont know much about BIOS - does the features from a lower bios carry over to a higher - like a patch... for instance - does 0803 come with all the updates and fixes of 0608 but with more features and fixes









or do i go with 0608 because of my CPU?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Barkers101* 
ooo that means i gotta buy a new HDD - i thought i could just flash it on boot









no need to buy a new hdd. You can boot off the windows cd, then in windows setup just format the hdd, then install.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
to set raid on this you have to have the mobo disk in and boot from it i think the only issues my brother had was that he could only set raid 0 couldnt figure out how to set the other options i havent tried and would look into it if i had matching hdd's i have 4 seperate sizes









You still need a floppy disc for XP. Booting off the mobo disc is just to make a raid disc that is all.


----------



## Barkers101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
no need to buy a new hdd. You can boot off the windows cd, then in windows setup just format the hdd, then reinstall.

Yeah this was my plan all along


----------



## tekster

..


----------



## deltaepsylon

Yo's,
Haven't been here for a while.
Anyways, I tweaked some stuff in BIOS (don't remember what it was), and now I can run orthos fine, yet at some point or another (within 20 min) I will get an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL 0xA bluescreen. RAM underclocked to 667 MHz. I have no clue what's causing this, drivin' me nutz!


----------



## hel1011

i got a q6600 i m just overclocking to 2.6 ghz right now i got vcore set to auto wat should i set this to for good stability because as of now i m gettin random bsod every once in awhile


----------



## deltaepsylon

Gah, couldn't delete this post, srry


----------



## Perry

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Yo's,
Haven't been here for a while.
Anyways, I tweaked some stuff in BIOS (don't remember what it was), and now I can run orthos fine, yet at some point or another (within 20 min) I will get an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL 0xA bluescreen. RAM underclocked to 667 MHz. I have no clue what's causing this, drivin' me nutz!


Do you have any other memory that is confirmed in good working order that you could try out? I used to get those BSOD's very so often when I was running my memory at 1000mhz. I had to back it off to 960 in order to get it stable.


----------



## udihow

Hello again, I got a zalman NBF47 for some reason, would it be enough to cool the NB on my P5N-E (with ~1,5v and 1200+ fsb)? maybe with a 60mm fan?

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._2009_78533800


----------



## Barkers101

I dont have a floppy drive so is there no other way to update the BIOS? thats if the system can even POST...What would you suggest.
Get the system to post,
format the drive,
update bios via USB device?


----------



## roguewizard

Hi, I am new here.

I am having trouble getting my p5n-e sli to over clock my q6600 G0 past 2.55 GHz, anything higher and the system will post but it just gets stuck at that screen. Also when I am at that screen pressing del to get to the bios, nothing happens. I have tried manual settings as well as auto.
Vcore 1.24
NB 1.393
RAM 2.085

I have tried 9x multi at 1133 FSB (max) 2550 Mhz
I have tried 8x multi at 1275 FSB (max) 2550 Mhz

Anything higher and i experience the same problem I mentioned above.

P5n-E SLI 0608 revision
q6600 G0
OCZ 2gb(2x 1gb) SOE pc6400 5-5-5-15 T2
8800GTX
PCP&C 750w quad silencer
Windows XP home edition 32bit
Audigy 2ZS Platinum Pro


----------



## roguewizard

I am thinking new ram or a new mobo will fix the problem unless there is a secret setting I am missing


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Yo's,
Haven't been here for a while.
Anyways, I tweaked some stuff in BIOS (don't remember what it was), and now I can run orthos fine, yet at some point or another (within 20 min) I will get an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL 0xA bluescreen. RAM underclocked to 667 MHz. I have no clue what's causing this, drivin' me nutz!

A little late, but have you set your ram to 2t timings?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *roguewizard* 
Hi, I am new here.

I am having trouble getting my p5n-e sli to over clock my q6600 G0 past 2.55 GHz, anything higher and the system will post but it just gets stuck at that screen. Also when I am at that screen pressing del to get to the bios, nothing happens. I have tried manual settings as well as auto.
Vcore 1.24
NB 1.393
RAM 2.085

I have tried 9x multi at 1133 FSB (max) 2550 Mhz
I have tried 8x multi at 1275 FSB (max) 2550 Mhz

Anything higher and i experience the same problem I mentioned above.

P5n-E SLI 0608 revision
q6600 G0
OCZ 2gb(2x 1gb) SOE pc6400 5-5-5-15 T2
8800GTX
PCP&C 750w quad silencer
Windows XP home edition 32bit
Audigy 2ZS Platinum Pro

is it hanging on boot as in locking up or is it hanging then restarting itself? you mention that you try to do it manualy as well, are you trying the AI overclock?


----------



## deltaepsylon

yeah, that zalman should be fine if you've got a fan pointed at it. Heck, the NB with the stock heatsink and a fan pointed at it is fine too, methinks.


----------



## Butterbum

Bah. My onboard networking wont work. Ive tried updating the ethernet drivers from the nvidia site and still not working.

Funny thing is, i have a PCI networking controller that works fine.

Anybody had an issue like this before?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Something like this happened to me before, try doing a 'repair' in windows network thingy. Disable/enable the adapter, etc.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Barkers101* 
I dont have a floppy drive so is there no other way to update the BIOS? thats if the system can even POST...What would you suggest.
Get the system to post,
format the drive,
update bios via USB device?

Update via a use Pen drive. Just make sure its easy for EZ Flash to navugate the pen drive. Making a folder named Bios and then another folder with the new bios in it make it easier to search through your pen drive.


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Something like this happened to me before, try doing a 'repair' in windows network thingy. Disable/enable the adapter, etc.

Problem just got a whole lot worse. Now when i even try and plug the RJ45 into the onboard networking i get a BSOD with some IRQ Less or Equal error or some Paging error.

Any ideas?


----------



## Barkers101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Update via a use Pen drive. Just make sure its easy for EZ Flash to navugate the pen drive. Making a folder named Bios and then another folder with the new bios in it make it easier to search through your pen drive.

never actually updated via pen drive. Can you walk me through it please?


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butterbum*


Problem just got a whole lot worse. Now when i even try and plug the RJ45 into the onboard networking i get a BSOD with some IRQ Less or Equal error or some Paging error.

Any ideas?


Bah. Fixed that with different drivers. But im still getting "Limited or No connectivity" and unable to connect to the internet using onboard.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Barkers101*


never actually updated via pen drive. Can you walk me through it please?


Get a pen drive and make a folder named BIOS. Make another folder inside that called P5N-e and one more with the Bios version as the name of the folder. Extract the BIOS you have downloaded into that folder. Go into the bios and under Tools select EZ Flash. Then Navigate through the folders to the new BIOS and its then pretty much automatic after that.


----------



## Barkers101

Alright sweet - thanks man! Is that a pretty much essential for this mobo?


----------



## Asce

I do that on every mobo ive flashed. I use my pen drive lots and has all the BIOS images that ive used. Having folders is essential for me. I havent flashed on this mobo as a never needed to, but Ive flash a few Maximus's and Striker 2's using the way i said.


----------



## roguewizard

It just hangs there untill I press the restart button.

I have tried the AI overclock and 5% OC works but 10% gave me a "blue screen" and 15% didn't even post, as well as 20%.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roguewizard*


It just hangs there untill I press the restart button.

I have tried the AI overclock and 5% OC works but 10% gave me a "blue screen" and 15% didn't even post, as well as 20%.


You should oc manually. AI overclocks the ram and cpu. Your ram is most likely holding you back. If you oc manually you can oc them individually if you set the fsb to unlinked.
Please fill out your system specs in the user control panel.


----------



## roguewizard

If you read my first post I explained my manual overclock using unlinked method


----------



## derelict360

Hello,

This is my first time trying to push my CPU up to 3.0. Looking for a little help. I set the FSB to 1333 and tried all voltages from 1.30 up to 1.36 but im not getting past BSOD at windows startup. Think i need to adjust something else as well. Any pointers?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roguewizard*


If you read my first post I explained my manual overclock using unlinked method


o sry


----------



## go.kyuu

considering this board with an e4300 + G.skill 5-5-5-15 ram for an uber budget but awesome setup...


----------



## marsey99

if you are looking for help can you please fill in your specs in your user cp so we can all see what you are running and maybe even work out how to help.

kyuu check the first link in my sig m8







you will need better cooling for everything tho


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *derelict360*


Hello,

This is my first time trying to push my CPU up to 3.0. Looking for a little help. I set the FSB to 1333 and tried all voltages from 1.30 up to 1.36 but im not getting past BSOD at windows startup. Think i need to adjust something else as well. Any pointers?


 Most likely your voltages are set too low. My voltage is set at 1.49 or 1.5 I can't remember. Try 1.4 and see if it'll post. As long as you have good CPU cooling you won't fry it with high voltages unless you go to extremes (1.6v+).


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *go.kyuu* 
considering this board with an e4300 + G.skill 5-5-5-15 ram for an uber budget but awesome setup...

the e7200 is an awesome processor on a budget.


----------



## go.kyuu

I know but a mate is offering me his e4300 for $50 buckaroos!

Don't worry about my current setup it's an AMD


----------



## go.kyuu

Ah **** does this not support G.Skill F2-6400PHU1 Ram?

edit my bad for double posting and I realise that the only difference is the 1 and the 2 are 1 and 2 gig kits lol


----------



## lookitznite

Hey sup guys, I was wondering by now does anyone have a stable configuration for this board. I have mine 100% stable at 3ghz with low temperatures. I want to take it a little higher. I was wondering if anyone has gotten it higher and is completely absolutely stable. Please share your configs if you got em. Thanks in advance.

My current info

Bios 0608.
vcore 1.5000 or something like that. or two below that. every thing else on auto. Memory unlinked, FSB 1333 and 667. Memory timing 4-4-4-12 1T. Multiplier 9x. That is a complete stable at 3ghz for me. But i just want to get it higher since my cpu is pretty cold still. idles at 33c. Thanks for your help.


----------



## roguewizard

Sorry for sounding like an ass earlier but could anyone offer me some advice about my situation.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roguewizard*


Sorry for sounding like an ass earlier but could anyone offer me some advice about my situation.


I've looked at your earlier post and it sounds like you probably need more vcore.

edit: try 1.3v and with this board you will most likely not be able to surpass 3ghz.


----------



## udihow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teabag*


blah blah


Ok tried to do some overclocking again. I got it stable at 2880mhz with 1.42v (tested ~2 h with orthos) and maybe 2950mhz (tested only 8 min) with 1.44-1,46v but nothing over that works, it doesnt even post if i set the fsb to 1333 or higher, only if i set the cpu multi to 8x (or lower). Any ideas??

What is max vcore for a 24/7 clock, can i go higher than 1.46? I hate the vcore settings on this mobo, i set it at 1.3 and +100mv and it shows up as 1.44 and 1.46 with load.

Shouldnt I be able to get past 3ghz with ~1.35 in vcore?


----------



## marsey99

you wont stay stable with much more than 1.4vcore on stock air unless you live in finland and your pc is in your garden.

Quote:



Shouldnt I be able to get past 3ghz with ~1.35 in vcore?


depends tbh, not all chips overclock the same, batch number is the best way to get an idea of how yours should perform as others from the same # will be your best indication of how yours might do.


----------



## udihow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
you wont stay stable with much more than 1.4vcore on stock air unless you live in finland and your pc is in your garden.

More? I want it stable with less than 1.4 if thats possible. What do you mean with that? Isn't air enough to cool it? it was under 60Â°c. And I live in sweden.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
depends tbh, not all chips overclock the same, batch number is the best way to get an idea of how yours should perform as others from the same # will be your best indication of how yours might do.

And where is that number? Printed on the cpu? :/

any ideas about why it doesnt want to boot with 1333mhz fsb?


----------



## Grizzly Adams

***moved


----------



## Armalite

Hi guys,

Can someone please tell me on the P5NE-SLi , which way I have to pull\\push the little clip on right hand side of the PCI-E (GPU) slot, so that I can remove the Graphics Card. I've tried pulling\\pushing in all directions, but without much pressure in fear that I'll snap it. Do I push it down towards the bottom of the MB? and does it require quite a lot of pressure to get it to budge?

Help is kindly appreciated =)


----------



## marsey99

iirc armalite you need to push it up towards the cpu socket slighlty so it frees the g card.

teabag

lolz

sweeden, i envy you and your cold air









1.4vcore is about as much as the stock intel blower can deal with, with your lower than most ambient you should be able to cope with a bit more but not alot.

batch munber is printed on the ihs of the cpu and on the label on the box.









bottom line on cpu










1 line up on bottom left of pic

edit

what volts do you have the nb set to? you may need 1.39v or more tbh.


----------



## derelict360

*Trying to OC to 3.0*

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Most likely your voltages are set too low. My voltage is set at 1.49 or 1.5 I can't remember. Try 1.4 and see if it'll post. As long as you have good CPU cooling you won't fry it with high voltages unless you go to extremes (1.6v+).

K, Updated my sig,

I've tried core voltage all the way up to 1.5 now but no joy. I have acutally been able to get in to Windows and even into Hellgate but it locks up after a few minutes at most.

Im using unlinked clocking and I have my ram set to 1066 since this is what it says it can do. Do I need to lower this?

If I lower my RAM clock is it worth the 3.0 I could possibly get from my processor?


----------



## derelict360

I'm also willing to shoot for 2.8... what is the FSB for this?


----------



## marsey99

derelict, you need to put your system in your user cp section so it is easier to read.

first up this board does not like quads, most get 3ghz max and only a few make it past 3.2ghz.

you want to drop your ram speed, i could not keep mine 24/7 stable @ much more than ddr1000.

your right to try unlinked as it does seem to make it more stable but you should set your ram manually to 1:1 to give you the most stability whilst you are testing.

most people found that bios version 0608 is the best for quads too.


----------



## derelict360

I'm at work right now so I put the info that I have in the CP.

Where is the option to set the RAM to 1:1? Do you know the FSB for 2.8? What should I use as a starting point for the RAM clock?


----------



## derelict360

Just found this guide -

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

Looks like a Saturday project...


----------



## Armalite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


iirc armalite you need to push it up towards the cpu socket slightly so it frees the g card.


Cheers mate. Can someone please confirm this? I just tried to push it up towards the top of the MB (towards the CPU socket) but there's a little metal cylinder (capacitor?) that is about 1-2cm above it and it seems to get in the way, I can negotiate the clip around it though if that's how hard I have to push it? Does the Clip come loose, or do I have to hold it up with one hand and pull the card out with the other at the same time? It doesn't seem to move at all, just bends like its about to snap if I push any harder, do I just need to stop being a girl and give it a good push?









sorry about this noob question, but thanks again for any help


----------



## Awesome

Dude, you only have to push a tiny bit. You've never put in a graphics card before? You wiggle the card loose, then push on the plastic thing and pull the card the rest of the way out. It doesn't need to move hardly at all, just a few millimeters.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
You've never put in a graphics card before? .

well obviously not...

anyway thank you for your help I'll give it another try then


----------



## Awesome

Interesting... never put in a graphics card before and here you are jumping straight into overclocking. You're brave.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Interesting... never put in a graphics card before and here you are jumping straight into overclocking. You're brave.









Only because I have to apparently, I have a 4870 here and I've been told from multiple sources that my E6600 will bottleneck it like no tomorrow. Don't really have a choice do I?


----------



## Awesome

I have no idea what a 4870 is, but I'll tell you honestly: overclocking a graphics card is much more dangerous than overclocking a CPU or motherboard, and not only do they not overclock well, but it gains you far less. It's much better to just buy a better card.

EDIT: Okay nvm I thought it was a typo but now I understand what you were saying. I still don't know what a 4870 is though.

BTW an E6600 bottlenecking a graphics card? LOL... depends on what game I suppose.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
I have no idea what a 4870 is, but I'll tell you honestly: overclocking a graphics card is much more dangerous than overclocking a CPU or motherboard, and not only do they not overclock well, but it gains you far less. It's much better to just buy a better card.

EDIT: Okay nvm I thought it was a typo but now I understand what you were saying. I still don't know what a 4870 is though.

BTW an E6600 bottlenecking a graphics card? LOL... depends on what game I suppose.

Sorry, I meant the new ATI graphics card, the HD4870, to my understanding a fairly high end card at the moment. I'm only running my E6600 at stock (2.4ghz) and I've been told many times, that I need to OC it to at LEAST 3ghz, which is quite daunting for me, as mentioned before, I've never OC'd a CPU before and I'm having trouble just putting in the damn GPU in









Games will be along the lines of COD4, Crysis , Far Cry 2 stuff like that.


----------



## jaihenwood

I'm getting blue screen during install of Vista 32 bit and 64 bit install.

I get the first vista boot install screen, then the pretty vista boot screen, then it goes to the blue screen for install and just locks up.

Anyone run into this problem?

Thanks for any help!


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


Sorry, I meant the new ATI graphics card, the HD4870, to my understanding a fairly high end card at the moment. I'm only running my E6600 at stock (2.4ghz) and I've been told many times, that I need to OC it to at LEAST 3ghz, which is quite daunting for me, as mentioned before, I've never OC'd a CPU before and I'm having trouble just putting in the damn GPU in









Games will be along the lines of COD4, Crysis , Far Cry 2 stuff like that.


ATI and "high end" is kind of an oxymoron.







I wouldn't jump into overclocking until you get more familiar with your machine. Try gaming. If you like the way the games play, then just leave it as it is for now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaihenwood*


I'm getting blue screen during install of Vista 32 bit and 64 bit install.

I get the first vista boot install screen, then the pretty vista boot screen, then it goes to the blue screen for install and just locks up.

Anyone run into this problem?

Thanks for any help!


Your overclock MUST be very stable before Vista will work. Linux is the same way. If your overclock isn't stable, Linux will have massive problems. I had my Overclock "stable" at 3.2 ghz a while ago, but I got tons of BSOD's in Vista. I thought it was a Vista problem until I found out that it was my overclock. I don't get any of them now.


----------



## udihow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


lolz

sweeden, i envy you and your cold air










It's not always cold here, sometimes it's around 10c and sometimes its 28Â°c

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


1.4vcore is about as much as the stock intel blower can deal with, with your lower than most ambient you should be able to cope with a bit more but not alot.

batch munber is printed on the ihs of the cpu and on the label on the box.









bottom line on cpu










1 line up on bottom left of pic


hmm i will have a look at that when i remove the cooler next time. 
(i don't have the box)
and btw, i got a 92mm adda fan on the heatsink instead of the original intel fan. it does 3800rpm at 100%

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


what volts do you have the nb set to? you may need 1.39v or more tbh.


It's at 1.53 or something.


----------



## Gauvenator

@armalite: Just wiggle ur graphics card until it stops, then push the arm upwards toward the socket while pulling and it will come out.


----------



## Kingflupps

Hi guys, after reading the guide to overclocking a q6600 on the p5n-e sli that is available
on this board I managed to log on to windows at 3.0ghz. The settings that I am using are...

fsb - 1333
multi - 9x
ldt - 5
vcore - 1.3
nb - 1.5

everything else on auto.

ram timings are 4-4-4-12 2t

The problem I am having is that when I run 3dMark06 @ 3.0ghz (which I get a score of 12700 @ 2.7ghz orthos stable) the computer will reboot at some point during the second CPU test. Any ideas? I read that aslong as you can boot into Windows you just need to tinker with settings to get a stable OC.
Is that correct?

Cheers
Dave


----------



## Armalite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


@armalite: Just wiggle ur graphics card until it stops, then push the arm upwards toward the socket while pulling and it will come out.


Thanks mate. Turns out I was being too gentle with it in fear of braking something, gave it a bit of muscle and it came out straight away


----------



## Vanorge

im building a comp for my cousing

asus p5n e sli
gskill 2gb 8500
hd4850
C2D e8400

set it up last night , updated bios right away . but im trying to get on the internet so i can upgrade windows and no matter what i can't get connected. anyone else have issues like this with this board. this is not my first build and never had an issue like this.

any suggestions would help tx


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Vanorge* 
im building a comp for my cousing

asus p5n e sli
gskill 2gb 8500
hd4850
C2D e8400

set it up last night , updated bios right away . but im trying to get on the internet so i can upgrade windows and no matter what i can't get connected. anyone else have issues like this with this board. this is not my first build and never had an issue like this.

any suggestions would help tx

have you installed the motherboard drivers from the p5n disk? it should find your ethernet without issues unless you havent fully plugged in the lan/ethernet cable fully


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Hi everyone, I'm pretty new to overclocking, but recently have tried it out a bit (failure was imminent, and came swiftly upon me), and read a few guides on it. Unfortunately, I'm just too unsure of myself when it comes to screwing with my CPU/MoBo.

Like all of you, I have an ASUS P5N-SLI 650i MoBo. Just for reference, my GPU is a single 8800 GT. My Processor is an E6550, and it clocks at 2.4 GHz currently. My cooling is only fan based and heat sink based, as I don't have a lot of money to shell out right now. I understand the basics of Overclocking, but don't know my way around BIOS yet, sorry. So if anyone could guide me through a way to overclock through BIOS, that would be great. If anyone needs more info, just ask, I'll be sure to respond. I'm not sure exactly how much I could overclock it to, but my desired range is somewhere between 2.8-3.0 GHz.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Kingflupps

3dMark06/Prime95 Stable @ 2.9ghz, 1.27v 1:1 - idle 33-37, load 45-51. Looks like that is all my q6600 will do unless there is a pretty hefty fsb hole but I'm not looking to go above 3.2ghz. Thanks for all the advice in the past guys - mission accomplished.


----------



## Armalite

Hi guys.

Gonna give overclocking my E6600 to 3.0GHz a go. Question: I have 667mhz ram, so if I set my FSB to 1333, do I set the DRAM to 665.5 to make it 1:1? or should I just put it as 667?

P.S When I set the FSB & Memory Config timings to linked, and then set the option to '1:1' and try and boot, it just does a continuous beep. Is it recommended that I just set the DRAM frequencies manually in the unlinked menu, as stated above?

Cheers


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kingflupps*


3dMark06/Prime95 Stable @ 2.9ghz, 1.27v 1:1 - idle 33-37, load 45-51. Looks like that is all my q6600 will do unless there is a pretty hefty fsb hole but I'm not looking to go above 3.2ghz. Thanks for all the advice in the past guys - mission accomplished.


Hey man, your earlier post about booting and then crashing... booting into Windows doesn't mean you have a stable overclock. It means you're on the right track, but it doesn't mean you're stable. If you're booting into Windows fine, then getting a reboot/BSOD/crash when running CPU tests or games or whatnot, it means that your voltage is probably too low.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


Hi guys.

Gonna give overclocking my E6600 to 3.0GHz a go. Question: I have 667mhz ram, so if I set my FSB to 1333, do I set the DRAM to 665.5 to make it 1:1? or should I just put it as 667?

P.S When I set the FSB & Memory Config timings to linked, and then set the option to '1:1' and try and boot, it just does a continuous beep. Is it recommended that I just set the DRAM frequencies manually in the unlinked menu, as stated above?

Cheers










Never use the BIOS 1:1 mode. That sets your RAM to whatever your FSB is, and the board won't handle memory that fast AFAIK. (and your memory won't handle that much of an overclock.







) Use the Sync Mode to get a good 1:1 ratio. Remember though: not all 1:1 ratios are stable. I couldn't get any 1:1 ratio to work on my CPU that was above 3.2 Ghz.


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Erm, what is the MB PCIE Frequency? And what should I change it to, if at all?


----------



## Awesome

You shouldn't touch it unless you really wanna fry something. Hehe.


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Oh, ok, hehe, sorry, I'm not sure what to change really any settings to, or if to at all.


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

What should I change the Vcore Voltage, the Mem Core Voltage, MB Core Voltage, VCore Offset Voltage to? Or should I change these at all?


----------



## Awesome

Uhhh only change the voltages after you change the clocks, and only if you have to. Erm I don't remember what the names of the things to change are. There should be an overclocking guide on the first page of this thread.


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Oh, okay, thanks.

EDIT: Do you change the CPU Multiplier? If so, what is a good setting for it?


----------



## marsey99

pcie clock can be changed as it will help your 3d scores, with 1.56v to the nb mine would do 125mhz.

guy with a e66, you need more vcore as 1.3v isnt alot.









guy with a q66, 3ghz is about the max you will get from this board sry


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Yeah, I'm sorry everyone, I just don't really know any good settings, and my way around BIOS yet. So, sorry for myself being overly questioning.

I changed the nb to 1.56v, and I changed the PCIE Clock to 125 Mhz.

Now, should I keep the FSB Mhz at 1333?


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Ok, whenever I play Crysis now, it starts, then it freezes, and loops whatever sound was just playing. I believe this is from overheating, but I'm not sure. Anyone have a solution?


----------



## marsey99

my mobo also has non stock cooling and a graphics card that can handle those speeds, you need to fill in your system specs in your user cp so its easier to understand your system.

your gpu might not take more than 110mhz, and if you only have stock cooling on the motherboard you might want to leave the nb at 1.39v.


----------



## Armalite

Alright, I set the FSB to 1333, set the Memory to 'Linked' Sync Mode, set CPU Vcore to 1.35 and it booted fine. Right now its idling at 28\\29 c at 0-5% load on G15 LCD, with TMPIN0 33c, TMPIN1 28c, TMPIN2 25c and the CPU VCORE is at 1.42v according to HWMonitor, 1.34v according to SpeedFan, 1.34v according to Asus PC Probe 2. for some reason CPU-Z VID has been stuck on 1.300 V since I got the new version (1.46) even before attempting to OC.

CPU-Z is reporting in the Memory tab 'DRAM Frequency: 333.3 - 333.4MHz| FSB







RAM divider is at 1:1. Below it says:
CAS# Latency (CL) - 5.0 Clocks
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD) - 5 Clocks
Cycle Time (tRP) - 5 Clocks
Cycle Time (tRAS) - 31 Clocks
Bank Cycle Time (TRC) - 20 Clocks
Command Rate (CR) - 2T

(Just to remind you I'm using 667MHz ram at 1.8v)

I'll run a RAM+CPU(right test?) blend test in Orthos for about an hour just to see how it goes, if it doesn't crash I'll run it overnight (8-10 hours will be ok?)

This is on the stock Intel HSF. I will not be going any further until I purchase a ThermalRight 120 Ultra eXtreme HSF.

Sorry about the long post, just trying to get as much info for you guys as possible.
Thanks to anyone who can give me some help, it is greatly appreciated









UPDATE: I ran Orthos CPU+RAM blend test for 2 hours, and HWMonitor said that the cores got up to 55c max, most of the time they were running at 50-52c, TMPIN0 got up to 45c Max, TMPIN1 and TMPIN2 didn't change. What exactly do these mean? I've googled and have found that some people say TMPIN0 is the temp inside your case, TMPIN1 is the outside of your case, and TMPIN2 is the CPU.


----------



## marsey99

nice post armalite, makes it easy to help









seeing as you have not overclocked your ram small ftt will be all you need to run to test your cpu.

tbh i think you should have no trouble running on those clocks with that cooling but im not sure you will get much more and stay stable.

1.4v is about as far as the stock intel blower can handle.

@SovereignRedoubt

same for you too m8, keep the nb @1.39v and unless you have great ambient temps i would keep the vcore at 1.4v too.

your cpu is a x7 multi so your going to find it hard to get a monster clock but i think you could get to 400fsb (might need more vcore?)easy but that will only have you @2.8ghz.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


nice post armalite, makes it easy to help









seeing as you have not overclocked your ram small ftt will be all you need to run to test your cpu.

tbh i think you should have no trouble running on those clocks with that cooling but im not sure you will get much more and stay stable.

1.4v is about as far as the stock intel blower can handle.


Thanks for the reply mate









I've hit a problem though, after running orthos, I fired up COD4 multiplayer, for only a single round, saw that my fps had gone DOWN in some spots on the more fps intensive maps (heavily grassed ones) so I googled the problem and apparently its from an unstable CPU Overclock, and a solution was upping the NB PCI-E frequency may help it out.

So I upped it from 100-105, and sure enough, it seems to have worked...in COD4 at least, I then fired up Crysis (demo) just to see if any improvement has resulted from the overclock, and sure enough my fps was a little better. Problem is though, about 3 quarters into the level, the textures on the rocks that are all about the level lost their texture, and just turned into a gray blobs with no textures which I've read is from the data being corrupted because of an unstable OC.

Should I up the PCI-E frequency to 110? or is this from the CPU not getting enough Voltage?

Any help would be appreciated


----------



## marsey99

you might be able to get abit higher than 110 from it, i think the most i got was about 117 on 1.39nb.

when i got gpu errors most of them were fixxed by drivers but adding vcore can help if its your cpu failing the gpu, if you get me.

just keep an eye on your temps till your happy with them.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marsey99*


you might be able to get abit higher than 110 from it, i think the most i got was about 117 on 1.39nb.

when i got gpu errors most of them were fixxed by drivers but adding vcore can help if its your cpu failing the gpu, if you get me.

just keep an eye on your temps till your happy with them.


Thanks again

Should I change the NB voltage? all voltages are set to auto, except the CPU Vcore which is at 1.35000v. I had no idea you had to overclock the PCI-E bus and stuff like that. I've read sooo many different responses, some say keep it at 100, some say 105-110, and some say 115+. Alot of people think taking it over 100 will blow/fry the GPU?

Drivers I'm using now (175.16) are not up to date, but are the best drivers I've ever had with this card ( 8600GT







) 175.19 really mess up my fps in games, so I reverted back to 175.16.

Here I was thinking I was getting close to my first (successful) overclock. This is definitely below the belt, am I in over my head here?


----------



## marsey99

try 177.35, they are what used in the 3dmark 06 run in my sig.

it all wants to oc once you start to mess with the fsb, the trick is to ballence it all out.

can you see what it says on the chips of your ram, or what does cpuz call them?

it is most likley autoing your nb to 1.2 or 1.39v, you could try both and see if it effects your temps any. lower temps are allways good on this board.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
try 177.35, they are what used in the 3dmark 06 run in my sig.

it all wants to oc once you start to mess with the fsb, the trick is to ballence it all out.

can you see what it says on the chips of your ram, or what does cpuz call them?

it is most likley autoing your nb to 1.2 or 1.39v, you could try both and see if it effects your temps any. lower temps are allways good on this board.

Thanks mate, I'll give those drivers a whirl.

Lol, In the SPD tab in CPU-Z it is blank in the Manufacturer label. On the chips themselves, it has a code: DDR26671GB-RVM6411010
Thats all it says on the ram sticks. So I guess its cheap stuff.

Will try the voltages later.

EDIT: Ok, set the NB voltage to 1.2, Both cores idling between 24-26, although it is early morning and it being winter helps. In CPU-Z in the 'SPD' menu, under timings table, under 333 MHz it says
5.0
5
5
15
20
But under the 'Memory' menu it says the ram is running at
1:1
5.0
5
5
31
20
2T
should that 31 be a 15? Should I enter the 333MHz timings into the BIOS manually?

cheers


----------



## Gauvenator

@ armalite: at 333fsb you should only need the northbridge to be on auto voltage, as it is an officially compatible speed. Your cpu is what needs the extra voltage. Imo, don't mess with the pcie frequency, stick with upping the cpu vcore.
Your instability could also be caused by that loose memory timing, so make sure to manually set the timings in the bios.


----------



## Armalite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


@ armalite: at 333fsb you should only need the northbridge to be on auto voltage, as it is an officially compatible speed. Your cpu is what needs the extra voltage. Imo, don't mess with the pcie frequency, stick with upping the cpu vcore.
Your instability could also be caused by that loose memory timing, so make sure to manually set the timings in the bios.


Thanks for the reply.

Ok, so I just put the NB voltage back to auto, set the PCI-E frequency back to 100, upped the CPU voltage by 1 step from 1.35000v to 1.35625v, set these timings CAS# Latency to 5, RAS# to CAS# to 5, RAS# Precharge to 5, tRAS to 15. Was I meant to set the tRC to 20? After checking CPU-Z in the memory tab it now says
1:1
5.0
5
5
15
20
2T
as stated above, this is what the timings table says it should be at 333mhz, so I'm guessing the Ram is now running in correct timings. CPU is idling at 28\\27, running a small FFT test in orthos, which is at the 17 minute mark right now, CPU load is at 56-57, I'm pretty sure this is really pushing it now? if it doesn't go up any further, will I be ok? I've read 60c is the max you wanna go with a C2D.

Thanks for your help


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


Thanks for the reply.

Ok, so I just put the NB voltage back to auto, set the PCI-E frequency back to 100, upped the CPU voltage by 1 step from 1.35000v to 1.35625v, set these timings CAS# Latency to 5, RAS# to CAS# to 5, RAS# Precharge to 5, tRAS to 15. Was I meant to set the tRC to 20? After checking CPU-Z in the memory tab it now says
1:1
5.0
5
5
15
20
2T
as stated above, this is what the timings table says it should be at 333mhz, so I'm guessing the Ram is now running in correct timings. CPU is idling at 2827, running a small FFT test in orthos, which is at the 17 minute mark right now, CPU load is at 56-57, I'm pretty sure this is really pushing it now? if it doesn't go up any further, will I be ok? I've read 60c is the max you wanna go with a C2D.

Thanks for your help










Your c2d is a G0 so you're good up to 72Â°C according to http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLA9X
If orthos lasts for a few hours your oc is pretty stable, but 8 should rule out most instability.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Hehe, quick random question which I think pertains to the board/bios. How can I disable cores on my QX6850? I've looked through the bios everywhere, cant seem to find it but I recall hearing that the disabled cores settings were in the bios...helpz?

-Thanks


----------



## Armalite

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Your c2d is a G0 so you're good up to 72Â°C according to http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLA9X
If orthos lasts for a few hours your oc is pretty stable, but 8 should rule out most instability.

My E6600 is actually a B2 stepping 6. I know G0 are the best overclockers, so yer at about 1 hour 30 minutes it did end up hitting 60c so I stopped it, so I'll be looking into buying a ThermalRight 120 Ultra eXtreme, but for the time being, I'm fairly certain its stable, its running alot more smoother after applying the settings you recommended. idling at 30c, and in games its gets in between 44-48 max, during midday in Australia. Tonight when the temperatures go down to about 9-12c I'll run an overnight Orthos test for stability.

Thanks again guys for the help, Appreciate it


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


My E6600 is actually a B2 stepping 6. I know G0 are the best overclockers, so yer at about 1 hour 30 minutes it did end up hitting 60c so I stopped it, so I'll be looking into buying a ThermalRight 120 Ultra eXtreme, but for the time being, I'm fairly certain its stable, its running alot more smoother after applying the settings you recommended. idling at 30c, and in games its gets in between 44-48 max, during midday in Australia. Tonight when the temperatures go down to about 9-12c I'll run an overnight Orthos test for stability.

Thanks again guys for the help, Appreciate it










o my bad I thought you had an e6550 for some reason lol

glad it's more stable now..i hate wondering when my pc will crash next


----------



## Armalite

Hey guys.

the P5N-E SLi main PCI-E port is PCI-E 2 right?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


Hey guys.

the P5N-E SLi main PCI-E port is PCI-E 2 right?


no I believe it is 1.1 or 1
Pci-e 2 wasn't out when this board was released.
edit: http://usa.asus.com/products.aspx?l1...74&modelmenu=2


----------



## mcogan10

ye bro, check my rig title!


----------



## marsey99

for most cards you get no gains but i read somthing about it helping the g/x2 cards.


----------



## SSJVegeta

New bios is out, *1101* since 7th July.

Anyone tested it?

Quote:

P5N-E SLI BIOS 1101.
1. Modified "SCSI:" string to "RAID:" on the Boot menu for RAID device.
2. Support new CPUs, please refer to our website at: http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI
3. Enhance system stability when applying SLI mode built of nVidia 9600GT VGA cards.
4. Fix it shows incorrect CPU frequency under "Properties" of "My Computer" when the following conditions are met:
-Using multiplier-locked Merom CPU
-Using Windows Vista OS
-EIST in the BIOS is enabled
5. Now system would no longer halt upon showing keyboard error message.
6. Fix it might be unable to update BIOS from Internet by Asusupdate under Windows Vista 64bit OS.
*Download:* http://dlsvr04.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...20SLI/1101.zip


----------



## Armalite

So I should be alright to run a single HD4870 on the P5N-E ?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


So I should be alright to run a single HD4870 on the P5N-E ?


yes all pcie gpu;s are fully backwards compatible with 1.0/1.1 pciex16 lanes


----------



## wcl

@SSJVegeta P5N-E SLI BIOS 1101.
I'm running 1101, it has more clock mutiple options. From memory it goes upto 14 in 0.5 steps. Previous version had a max value of 9.

Which brings me onto my next question.

Clock multiple is set to 10 but CPU-Z reports it is 9 under load (Prime95 running test), did the same with the mutiple set to 9.5. Any other tools available to check the cpu speed?
[edit] clock multiple is being reset in the bios, will do more testing and post again with results[/edit]


----------



## Armalite

Thanks for the reply's guys


----------



## DemonPizzaboy

Hey, I noticed there's an area and mounting holes for the voltage regulators next to the cpu, what heatsink will fit there?


----------



## Grizzly Adams

I just installed the new BIOS, after my second boot up the computer wouldnt even show bios. The screen stayed black and would not boot up. I had to turn off my PSU at least 5 times and keep restarting it for BIOS to finally show up.

Anyone else have problems with the new drivers?


----------



## wcl

cpu multi > 9 is ignored and 9.5 is treated as 9.

10 is set back to 9 after a reboot.


----------



## Armalite

Hey again, I'm currently using Prime95 25.6 build 6, and was wondering do I need to run two instances of Prime95 on my E6600? CoreTemp, SpeedFan,Windows Task Manager all say its already running at 100% load on both cores with small FFT test.


----------



## S2000_Skyline12

Can someone help me with OCing? I have a Celeron D 3.33GHz with a C1 stepping (dunno if that makes a difference) and i'm using the AI Overclock thing but I wanna get 4GHz, so how would I do this manually?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Armalite* 
Hey again, I'm currently using Prime95 25.6 build 6, and was wondering do I need to run two instances of Prime95 on my E6600? CoreTemp, SpeedFan,Windows Task Manager all say its already running at 100% load on both cores with small FFT test.

25.6 is multithreaded so no need to run multiple instances.


----------



## DemonPizzaboy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2000_Skyline12* 
Can someone help me with OCing? I have a Celeron D 3.33GHz with a C1 stepping (dunno if that makes a difference) and i'm using the AI Overclock thing but I wanna get 4GHz, so how would I do this manually?

Bad choice for an overclocking processor.. but w/e

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ml#post2820311


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Hello Again.
I had my CPU OC'd to 2.84 GHZ comfortably. It was running stable for about 2 months.
So I decided i would try to get to *3.0 GHZ*. I played about 2 hours of games with no problems. So before bed, I set ORTHOS to run overnight. When I wake up, it _seems_ fine.
Orthos said it ran for about 6hrs,27minutes. Speed Fan was reporting the cores at about 53-55C. OK right ? Well nothing else would open. So a CRTL-ALT-DEL brought a *BLUE SCREEN*.

IT was a *STOP ERROR 0x0000007e* ( parameter1, par. 2, par. 3, par.4 ) !

It suggested Video Driver, Bios Updates , and Disabling Memory Caching and Shadowing.
I lowered the OC to 2.84 and rebooted just fine. My video driver are up to date ( 7/2008) and my MB BIOS is the same since installation ( 0505 ). I don't think I did anything with Memory Caching or Shadowing.

IS 3.0 to aggressive for this chipset ?

My specs are below. I hope this is enough information.

Thanks for reading !


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
Hello Again.
I had my CPU OC'd to 2.84 GHZ comfortably. It was running stable for about 2 months.
So I decided i would try to get to *3.0 GHZ*. I played about 2 hours of games with no problems. So before bed, I set ORTHOS to run overnight. When I wake up, it _seems_ fine.
Orthos said it ran for about 6hrs,27minutes. Speed Fan was reporting the cores at about 53-55C. OK right ? Well nothing else would open. So a CRTL-ALT-DEL brought a *BLUE SCREEN*.

IT was a *STOP ERROR 0x0000007e* ( parameter1, par. 2, par. 3, par.4 ) !

It suggested Video Driver, Bios Updates , and Disabling Memory Caching and Shadowing.
I lowered the OC to 2.84 and rebooted just fine. My video driver are up to date ( 7/2008) and my MB BIOS is the same since installation ( 0505 ). I don't think I did anything with Memory Caching or Shadowing.

IS 3.0 to aggressive for this chipset ?

My specs are below. I hope this is enough information.

Thanks for reading !

What fsb are you running at? If it is near 1600 or above you may need to give the nb more voltage.
If not, just raise the vcore a notch.


----------



## marsey99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DemonPizzaboy* 
Hey, I noticed there's an area and mounting holes for the voltage regulators next to the cpu, what heatsink will fit there?

i spent nearly a year trying to fing that out, gave up and used vram sinks in the end but i also noticed those and never found a sink to match the holes.


----------



## Pumpkinhead

MY FSB was at 1500 at the time.
My voltages were default.

Vcore1: 1.44v
Vcore2: 3.34v >>*is this the MB voltage* ?

Also , how much is a _notch_ ? .100 V ?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
MY FSB was at 1500 at the time.
My voltages were default.

Vcore1: 1.44v
Vcore2: 3.34v >>*is this the MB voltage* ?

Also , how much is a _notch_ ? .100 V ?

I meant 1 step up, which I believe is .00625v.

And no that is not your nb voltage. In the bios you should set it to 1.39. 1500 is close enough to 1600 that it may need a little extra juice. But first try with the extra vcore.

edit: Wait, you have the vcore on auto?


----------



## S2000_Skyline12

Could I perhaps get a bit of help? :S


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2000_Skyline12* 
Can someone help me with OCing? I have a Celeron D 3.33GHz with a C1 stepping (dunno if that makes a difference) and i'm using the AI Overclock thing but I wanna get 4GHz, so how would I do this manually?

Start by setting your voltage manually for the cpu. You can use cpu-z to get an idea of where to start.
Then start raising the fsb in increments of 10.
If you become unstable raise the vcore a notch or two. You should test with orthos smallffts every few raises for 10min.
I would set the fsb to unlinked so you can oc the cpu individually of the ram.

edit: oh and disable energy saving features, and watch your temperatures as you raise the vcore.
edit2: also manually set the ram timings for extra stability


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I meant 1 step up, which I believe is .00625v.

And no that is not your nb voltage. In the bios you should set it to 1.39. 1500 is close enough to 1600 that it may need a little extra juice. But first try with the extra vcore.

edit: Wait, you have the vcore on auto?


_*Now* _ the Vcore is set 1 set up ( +.00625 ) to =*1.406325v*
it _was_ =Auto.

currently....
the Memory V = auto
NB Core= Auto
Vcore Offset = Auto

Orthos is running now. CPU temps in the 52-54c range. 
CPUz reading 3.0GHZ!







I am keeping my eye on it.....

Should I keep these other voltages to *AUTO* ?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead*


_*Now* _ the Vcore is set 1 set up ( +.00625 ) to =*1.406325v*
it _was_ =Auto.

currently....
the Memory V = auto
NB Core= Auto
Vcore Offset = Auto

Orthos is running now. CPU temps in the 52-54c range. 
CPUz reading 3.0GHZ!







I am keeping my eye on it.....

Should I keep these other voltages to *AUTO* ?


The others should stay on auto unless your ram needs more than 1.8v at stock. If you are unstable at 3ghz at your current setting, bump the vcore a little more. But if at 1.42 volts it is not stable then you should start to toy with the nb voltage. If it comes to that, try 1.39v first, and if that doesn't fix it you are going to need better cooling to go to the next voltage (1.56 iirc). At the least you should reseat the stock cooler with good tim.


----------



## dasparx

Does anyone know the southbridge hole to hole distance?
Ive looked at several nb/sb heatsinks, but they have different h2h distances.
Im wanting to buy this enzotech CNB-S1L, that i can use with SLi since its low profile. the hole to hole distances are 54.6mm and 59mm, so could i use this with my P5n-E sli?


----------



## Galcobar

Another "Help, I'm new" question.

System specs:
E6600 B2 stepping (2.4GHz 1066FSB stock)
ASUS P5N-E
2 1GB Patriot Extreme PC-6400 4-4-4-12
EVGA 8800GTS 640 MB (G80, sadly)
Antec SLK-2650 with a Noctua 120mm 1200 and a jury-rigged 120mm fan on low voltage near (but not in) the front intake.
Jury-rigged ducting to isolate side vent to pull directly onto the stock CPU heatsink and separate the PS fan from the rear exhaust fan (the PS was pulling so hard it was reversing airflow through the rear case exhaust). Tested and this ducting does lower case, GPU and CPU temps.

Read through the various stickies (Intel chipsets, the P5N-E guide, and the temp guide).

Trouble with temperatures, which make me reluctant to up the Vcore any further as I OC.

Stock settings (auto everything except memory timings), Prime95 25.6 large FFT: core0 56C, core1: 56C, and what as far as I can tell is Tcase: 44C, ambient temp around 25C.

Re-seated the processor and the NB heatsinks with Arctic Cooling MX-2.

Running at 1600FSB (8x multiplier for 3.2 GHz), unlinked memory (1:1 ratio), 1.306 Vcore, 1.56V NB, 5xLTD, and everything I don't need disabled. Fails Prime95 small FFT after about four hours, oddly enough always on the core1 thread.

Idle temps at 1600:
Tcase: 43C
MB: 48C (figure this is due to the GPU never getting below 60C)
Core0: 50C
Core1: 52C
GPU: 64C
and just for comparison's sake:
HDD: 43C and 38C

Prime95 small FFT temps at 1600:
Tcase: 54C
MB: 48C (figure this is due to the GPU never getting below 60C)
Core0: 69C
Core1: 69C
GPU: 64C
HDD: 43C and 38C

From all reports, I should be able to run at 400x8 on this CPU/board set easily, and certainly not at the temperatures I'm seeing.

My next steps are to try a proper 80mm fan in the front intake to see if that improves the circulation and an old 50mm CPU fan on the NB, but the noise level's starting to get to me. If that doesn't work I'm considering cutting the grill out of the front intake (it's pretty thick).

While I'm disassembling my computer, any thoughts, ideas, warnings?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Galcobar* 
Another "Help, I'm new" question.

System specs:
E6600 B2 stepping (2.4GHz 1066FSB stock)
ASUS P5N-E
2 1GB Patriot Extreme PC-6400 4-4-4-12
EVGA 8800GTS 640 MB (G80, sadly)
Antec SLK-2650 with a Noctua 120mm 1200 and a jury-rigged 120mm fan on low voltage near (but not in) the front intake.
Jury-rigged ducting to isolate side vent to pull directly onto the stock CPU heatsink and separate the PS fan from the rear exhaust fan (the PS was pulling so hard it was reversing airflow through the rear case exhaust). Tested and this ducting does lower case, GPU and CPU temps.

Read through the various stickies (Intel chipsets, the P5N-E guide, and the temp guide).

Trouble with temperatures, which make me reluctant to up the Vcore any further as I OC.

Stock settings (auto everything except memory timings), Prime95 25.6 large FFT: core0 56C, core1: 56C, and what as far as I can tell is Tcase: 44C, ambient temp around 25C.

Re-seated the processor and the NB heatsinks with Arctic Cooling MX-2.

Running at 1600FSB (8x multiplier for 3.2 GHz), unlinked memory (1:1 ratio), 1.306 Vcore, 1.56V NB, 5xLTD, and everything I don't need disabled. Fails Prime95 small FFT after about four hours, oddly enough always on the core1 thread.

Idle temps at 1600:
Tcase: 43C
MB: 48C (figure this is due to the GPU never getting below 60C)
Core0: 50C
Core1: 52C
GPU: 64C
and just for comparison's sake:
HDD: 43C and 38C

Prime95 small FFT temps at 1600:
Tcase: 54C
MB: 48C (figure this is due to the GPU never getting below 60C)
Core0: 69C
Core1: 69C
GPU: 64C
HDD: 43C and 38C

From all reports, I should be able to run at 400x8 on this CPU/board set easily, and certainly not at the temperatures I'm seeing.

My next steps are to try a proper 80mm fan in the front intake to see if that improves the circulation and an old 50mm CPU fan on the NB, but the noise level's starting to get to me. If that doesn't work I'm considering cutting the grill out of the front intake (it's pretty thick).

While I'm disassembling my computer, any thoughts, ideas, warnings?

You need more vcore. Your nb voltage is plenty, I hope you have adequate cooling on it.
However, your temps are very high on the processor; try reseating the cooler, and possibly use less tim.


----------



## Galcobar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


You need more vcore. Your nb voltage is plenty, I hope you have adequate cooling on it.
However, your temps are very high on the processor; try reseating the cooler, and possibly use less tim.


Have a 50mm fan sitting on it, pulling air off the northbridge and pushing it into the path of the case exhaust fan.

Oddity I noticed just now with my core temps, where under Prime95 they'd read 69-70C, but as soon as the program stopped they dropped to 59-60C. Not over a few seconds where the decline is noted, but from high to low with no stop in between, within less than a second. I'm rather surprised to think the temp climb can be watched, but not the decline -- slapping ice on burn doesn't cool that quickly.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Galcobar* 
Have a 50mm fan sitting on it, pulling air off the northbridge and pushing it into the path of the case exhaust fan.

Oddity I noticed just now with my core temps, where under Prime95 they'd read 69-70C, but as soon as the program stopped they dropped to 59-60C. Not over a few seconds where the decline is noted, but from high to low with no stop in between, within less than a second. I'm rather surprised to think the temp climb can be watched, but not the decline -- slapping ice on burn doesn't cool that quickly.

hehe I have a similar effect...I go from load to idle in a couple seconds.

Your proc is B2 stepping so you need to be careful. 60Â°C is the recommended max.


----------



## BDF2000

I had thought my motherboard was a piece of crap (P5N-E) due to the prolific memory issues I have had with it in the past.

Up until about a day ago I was looking to replace it, then I stumbled onto this website and saw this thread...I answered my questions about the memory issues and made me realize how good of an overclocker this board is.

So today I finally mustered up the balls to update my motherboard BIOS and I did successfully.

I am ordering a Q6600 tonight to replace my E4300 and was wondering what kind of reputation this motherboard has with overclocking quad-core CPUs...
BIOS version 1101 if it helps


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BDF2000* 
I had thought my motherboard was a piece of crap (P5N-E) due to the prolific memory issues I have had with it in the past.

Up until about a day ago I was looking to replace it, then I stumbled onto this website and saw this thread...I answered my questions about the memory issues and made me realize how good of an overclocker this board is.

So today I finally mustered up the balls to update my motherboard BIOS and I did successfully.

I am ordering a Q6600 tonight to replace my E4300 and was wondering what kind of reputation this motherboard has with overclocking quad-core CPUs...
BIOS version 1101 if it helps

Unfortunately this board is not good for oc'ing the q6600 beyond 3ghz.

I would cancel your order and get a 45nm dual core.

edit: I suggest an e8500


----------



## stucknnola

Hey guys,

First, what happened to the all the pages for this thread?

Second, My computer has a posting issue after a shutdown. It reboots fine and runs fine as well. All my temps are ok, no insane voltages, no new parts, no new BIOS settings.... you get the idea. Considering that this is the first rig I've built and my first OC, I'm curious what is going on.

To get it to post I have to turn it off at the PSU for 5-30 minutes and then, god-willing, it will post. Reboots are normal, it is only when it is shutdown that it has this problem.









Third, how do I know when I have fried my CPU or MoBo or at least started to damage it with my OCing?

Thanks for the advice in advance.

g


----------



## BDF2000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
Unfortunately this board is not good for oc'ing the q6600 beyond 3ghz.

I would cancel your order and get a 45nm dual core.

edit: I suggest an e8500

When you say not good for it...what limits it to 3 GHz?
Is it a BIOS problem?
Is there any way around it? I just really like to multi-task and use media editing software so I'll be getting the quad core no matter what


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BDF2000* 
When you say not good for it...what limits it to 3 GHz?
Is it a BIOS problem?
Is there any way around it? I just really like to multi-task and use media editing software so I'll be getting the quad core no matter what

The problem is that this board has 4 phase power (iirc), so it has a hard being stable with quads over 3ghz. Even so, the q6600 even mildly overclocked will crush your e4300 at 2.4ghz, especially if you are using multi-threaded software.


----------



## BDF2000

Well that is a bummer, but thank you for the info

I'll just think of it as something to tide me over until Nahalem settles in


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stucknnola*


Hey guys,

First, what happened to the all the pages for this thread?


Are you sure you aren't mistaking this thread for this one?

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...0i-thread.html


----------



## funkykid

ye these boards are rubbish for oc,ing i sold mines and got a p5k superb for overclocking quad cores


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *funkykid* 
ye these boards are rubbish for oc,ing i sold mines and got a p5k superb for overclocking quad cores









no there not this board OC's duel cores extremely well i had my e6400 @ 3.4ghz stable for months on 0608 bios then i upgraded to a Q6600 and bought a second p5ne-sli and the new board i got to go in my current build is working fine but like the above statement says 3.0ghz is the limit currently mine is showing 2.99ghz in cpuz but 3.01ghz in everest kinda weired but hey im happy with it


----------



## funkykid

ye for dual cores they might be good but for quad cores there terrible for oc,ing.


----------



## Armalite

Hey guys, just wanted to get some opinions here, do you think I'm better off SLi-ing 2 9800GTX+\\ GTX260's or just going the 1 HD4870? I can buy the 4870 + Corsair HX-620 (current PSU is a POS) now. I'm leaning towards and the 4870 because of the very good bang for buck, and the 2 cards running in SLi only run at x8 instead of x16, does this effect the performance much?. I can't Crossfire two 4870's on the P5N-E as you all know.

Price of 2x GTX260 + HX-620 is 900, while the 4870 and HX-620 is only 500. So should I invest into SLi or just go a single card solution?

I'll most likely build a new computer some time next year when the Nahalem CPU's are more mainstream, so this setup will be for about another year to a year and a half.

Cheers


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Armalite*


Hey guys, just wanted to get some opinions here, do you think I'm better off SLi-ing 2 9800GTX+ GTX260's or just going the 1 HD4870? I can buy the 4870 + Corsair HX-620 (current PSU is a POS) now. I'm leaning towards and the 4870 because of the very good bang for buck, and the 2 cards running in SLi only run at x8 instead of x16, does this effect the performance much?. I can't Crossfire two 4870's on the P5N-E as you all know.

Price of 2x GTX260 + HX-620 is 900, while the 4870 and HX-620 is only 500. So should I invest into SLi or just go a single card solution?

I'll most likely build a new computer some time next year when the Nahalem CPU's are more mainstream, so this setup will be for about another year to a year and a half.

Cheers










For only a year I would say 4870. That card is nice. Can the hx620 even power 2xGTX260? Obviously 2xGTX260 will perform better, and I don't think x8 will effect it much...iirc only time I've heard of it effecting performance is with the 9800GX2.


----------



## marsey99

you will be able to get boards that will do sli and xfire for bloomfield, maybe even on 1 board? so that shouldnt factor in.

2 260s will give you the most performance, the 4870 gives you the option to xfire in the future and the 98gtx+ is the cheaper option, which ever you pick they will all handle most games fine under daft high res.


----------



## BDF2000

Get one video card now...I'd suggest the HD 4870..then once Nehalem comes out get a Cross Fire motherboard and then get a second HD 4870


----------



## NvG

Hello,
I want to OC my system.
After some days trying to get it stable i still get bleu screens:swearing:
I think I need some seriouse help









CPU - E6600 conroe
VID - 8800GTS 320 mb
Mobo - P5N32-E SLI Plus 650i
Ram - 2 x 1024mb 800mhz CL4 4-4-12
HD - Samsung 500gb 7200 RPM
Koeling - 3 X 120 mm fan 1 X 200 mm fan

What is the max stable oc?
What software I need (Bios, Rivatune, Ntune, Ai booster, Ati tool) + Version.

Hope some one could help!

Grtz,
NvG


----------



## Armalite

Thanks guys









I think I'll just go the 4870 + HX-620.

Oh and I only have a 19" widescreen monitor at the moment (1440x900) suites my needs, so resolution isn't a big thing.

Have you guys heard about this XDNA thing? Something that lets you use crossfire on nForce boards?


----------



## marsey99

there have been hacked drivers to let xfire/sli work on the other board for a while, they only work on some boards tho iirc.


----------



## SickStew

The most risky overclock so far, temps are 38 to 43 idle but its and hot day

see pic.









COME ON P5N-E SLI YOU OLD BEAST


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SickStew*


The most risky overclock so far, temps are 38 to 43 idle but its and hot day

see pic.









COME ON P5N-E SLI YOU OLD BEAST


wow is that stable? It takes 1.264v for mine at 3.8ghz.


----------



## SickStew

I wish my Vcore is at 1.245 in BIO and i have played GRID for about 30 mins


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NvG*


Hello,
I want to OC my system.
After some days trying to get it stable i still get bleu screens:swearing:
I think I need some seriouse help









CPU - E6600 conroe
VID - 8800GTS 320 mb
Mobo - P5N32-E SLI Plus 650i
Ram - 2 x 1024mb 800mhz CL4 4-4-12
HD - Samsung 500gb 7200 RPM
Koeling - 3 X 120 mm fan 1 X 200 mm fan

What is the max stable oc?
What software I need (Bios, Rivatune, Ntune, Ai booster, Ati tool) + Version.

Hope some one could help!

Grtz,
NvG


Wrong thread buddy. Our boards are P5N-E SLI's your's is a P5N32-E SLI Plus. Your board uses a different chipset than the P5N-E. Its much closer to a 680i board than a 650i.

Good luck though!


----------



## MD1220

Hello. I have the newest BIOS 1101 on the P5N-E SLI, and this is my first attempt at overclocking and I am having some issues. I could use a bit of direction, as I can't seem to find a stable setup.

The most stable I got was running 1233 on FSB unlinked with 1066 on the RAM. The NB voltage was set at 1.3v, and the vcore voltage at 1.318, RAM at 2.175v. It would work sporaticlly and crash to blue screen. I can't get anything above that to boot. Also, I have all updated drivers. I use the Nvidia chipset drivers atm.

Processors are the Q6600 @2.4 on Vista 32 SP1. 4g of Corsair Dominator 1066 DDR2 PC2-8500 C5 at 5-5-5-15 factory recommended 2.1v. BFG Nvidia 9800GTX OC.

If there is any assistance you can provide me, it would be very helpful.

**Edit: I tried the AI overclock with all the voltages and memory settings on auto, and it is running stable @ 2.759ghz, Bus @ 306mhz, [email protected] 1226 with the ram auto set by the AI overclock to 2:3 5-5-5-20 2t @ 919.

**edit the ai overclock worked on Orthos fine for 10 mins. I load Crysis and I get a hardware or driver failure and crash before I even get to the start screen. I load default BIOS settings and it runs fine. Please let me know what could help.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MD1220*


Hello. I have the newest BIOS 1101 on the P5N-E SLI, and this is my first attempt at overclocking and I am having some issues. I could use a bit of direction, as I can't seem to find a stable setup.

The most stable I got was running 1233 on FSB unlinked with 1066 on the RAM. The NB voltage was set at 1.3v, and the vcore voltage at 1.318, RAM at 2.175v. It would work sporaticlly and crash to blue screen. I can't get anything above that to boot. Also, I have all updated drivers. I use the Nvidia chipset drivers atm.

Processors are the Q6600 @2.4 on Vista 32 SP1. 4g of Corsair Dominator 1066 DDR2 PC2-8500 C5 at 5-5-5-15 factory recommended 2.1v. BFG Nvidia 9800GTX OC.

If there is any assistance you can provide me, it would be very helpful.

**Edit: I tried the AI overclock with all the voltages and memory settings on auto, and it is running stable @ 2.759ghz, Bus @ 306mhz, [email protected] 1226 with the ram auto set by the AI overclock to 2:3 5-5-5-20 2t @ 919.

**edit the ai overclock worked on Orthos fine for 10 mins. I load Crysis and I get a hardware or driver failure and crash before I even get to the start screen. I load default BIOS settings and it runs fine. Please let me know what could help.


Try giving it more vcore. Say...1.35v at least. Then keep bumping up the fsb until it's unstable again.


----------



## Grizzly Adams

how do I read NB temps on this beast? Everest Ultimate doesn't even show them


----------



## MrQ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MD1220*


Hello. I have the newest BIOS 1101 on the P5N-E SLI, and this is my first attempt at overclocking and I am having some issues. I could use a bit of direction, as I can't seem to find a stable setup.

The most stable I got was running 1233 on FSB unlinked with 1066 on the RAM. The NB voltage was set at 1.3v, and the vcore voltage at 1.318, RAM at 2.175v. It would work sporaticlly and crash to blue screen. I can't get anything above that to boot. Also, I have all updated drivers. I use the Nvidia chipset drivers atm.

Processors are the Q6600 @2.4 on Vista 32 SP1. 4g of Corsair Dominator 1066 DDR2 PC2-8500 C5 at 5-5-5-15 factory recommended 2.1v. BFG Nvidia 9800GTX OC.

If there is any assistance you can provide me, it would be very helpful.

**Edit: I tried the AI overclock with all the voltages and memory settings on auto, and it is running stable @ 2.759ghz, Bus @ 306mhz, [email protected] 1226 with the ram auto set by the AI overclock to 2:3 5-5-5-20 2t @ 919.

**edit the ai overclock worked on Orthos fine for 10 mins. I load Crysis and I get a hardware or driver failure and crash before I even get to the start screen. I load default BIOS settings and it runs fine. Please let me know what could help.


Look here -points to sig- there is a guide you can use to achieve a stable 3ghz overclock.


----------



## not quite there yet

Hi guys
Thanks to you lot Ive managed to get a stable 3.1Ghz overclock on my P5N E Sli with stock voltages.
In an attempt to get a little more im slowly increasing vcore.
However CPU Z and speedfan still detect the vcore at the stock voltage of 1.275v?!?
Any ideas what im doing wrong?
When i return to the BIOS the voltage is as i last set it.
Im stuck...any ideas?

thanks


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *not quite there yet*


Hi guys
Thanks to you lot Ive managed to get a stable 3.1Ghz overclock on my P5N E Sli with stock voltages.
In an attempt to get a little more im slowly increasing vcore.
However CPU Z and speedfan still detect the vcore at the stock voltage of 1.275v?!?
Any ideas what im doing wrong?
When i return to the BIOS the voltage is as i last set it.
Im stuck...any ideas?

thanks


If you are raising the fsb at the same time, an unstable overclock might be resetting the bios back to it's last known stable settings. Try raising it before raising the fsb and see if the settings stick.


----------



## derelict360

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MD1220* 
Hello. I have the newest BIOS 1101 on the P5N-E SLI, and this is my first attempt at overclocking and I am having some issues. I could use a bit of direction, as I can't seem to find a stable setup.

The most stable I got was running 1233 on FSB unlinked with 1066 on the RAM. The NB voltage was set at 1.3v, and the vcore voltage at 1.318, RAM at 2.175v. It would work sporaticlly and crash to blue screen. I can't get anything above that to boot. Also, I have all updated drivers. I use the Nvidia chipset drivers atm.

Processors are the Q6600 @2.4 on Vista 32 SP1. 4g of Corsair Dominator 1066 DDR2 PC2-8500 C5 at 5-5-5-15 factory recommended 2.1v. BFG Nvidia 9800GTX OC.

If there is any assistance you can provide me, it would be very helpful.

**Edit: I tried the AI overclock with all the voltages and memory settings on auto, and it is running stable @ 2.759ghz, Bus @ 306mhz, [email protected] 1226 with the ram auto set by the AI overclock to 2:3 5-5-5-20 2t @ 919.

**edit the ai overclock worked on Orthos fine for 10 mins. I load Crysis and I get a hardware or driver failure and crash before I even get to the start screen. I load default BIOS settings and it runs fine. Please let me know what could help.

Anyone else try 1101 with the Q6600 yet?


----------



## SacredChaos

Hey you can add a Zalman 9700 LED to the list of compatible CPU heatsinks and fans. Thats with stock NB heatsink.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ccarey13* 
how do I read NB temps on this beast? Everest Ultimate doesn't even show them

As far as I know you can't...or rather nobody can verify if the motherboard temperature shown by Everest is the northbridge. Now when I use HWMonitor I have a few temperatures that are read as ACPI but again I can't verify what these are.


----------



## MD1220

Thank you for the replies. I tried for some time, even with the quide on obtaining 3.0 ghz. The system just could not hadle it. I ran at 3.0ghz for about 10 minutes on prime95 and i crash. That was the best I could do before I somehow corrupted windows and had to reformat. lol

I woke up this morning and decided to pick up a P5N-D. It's installed and appears to have some nice features. From what I have read it is a bit more overclock friendly. I will soon see. I just wish I didnt corrupt windows somehow. After a while working with the overclocking I just cold not get windows to load. Even with the boot disk. Oh well. That's what I get for noobing it up and not reading enough before trying to do this.

Any recommendations on precautions to take so I do not corrupt windows again?


----------



## Kripps

Hey, sorry if I'm hijacking this thread it's the only place I could find where questions like this would be relevant.

I have a problem, I recently bought an entire computer in parts and built it together and it seems to be running at really high temperatures at stock settings.

I'm using: Motherboard: P5N-D
CPU: Q6600 2.6ghz
CPU fan: Stock

At idle it's running at 65C but when I put some pressure on it it reaches 82C, and that worries me a bit. I also noticed that even under maximum stress the fans are not operating under optimal conditions, it's stuck around 2k-2.7k RPM and it seems to be increasing with increments of 5 every oh, minute, or something.

Anyone have an idea what's wrong or what I can do to crank the CPU fan up to max?

Thanks, and sorry if this is the wrong place.

Edit: Oh, and the motherboard temperature is at about 45C without strain, this sounds high. Is it?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kripps*


Hey, sorry if I'm hijacking this thread it's the only place I could find where questions like this would be relevant.

I have a problem, I recently bought an entire computer in parts and built it together and it seems to be running at really high temperatures at stock settings.

I'm using: Motherboard: P5N-D
CPU: Q6600 2.6ghz
CPU fan: Stock

At idle it's running at 65C but when I put some pressure on it it reaches 82C, and that worries me a bit. I also noticed that even under maximum stress the fans are not operating under optimal conditions, it's stuck around 2k-2.7k RPM and it seems to be increasing with increments of 5 every oh, minute, or something.

Anyone have an idea what's wrong or what I can do to crank the CPU fan up to max?

Thanks, and sorry if this is the wrong place.

Edit: Oh, and the motherboard temperature is at about 45C without strain, this sounds high. Is it?


You may need to remount the cooler. Also try turning off fan control in the bios.
You can start your own thread in the Intel Motherboards Section. You will probably get more help that way too.


----------



## deltaepsylon

65 C IDLE








I'd check to make sure the hs is seated properly... maybe when you push down on it, its actually tilting slightly, so less contact is made. Go ahead and reseat with AS5 or something...

PS. this post kinda is in the wrong section, you have a P5N-D, but this is the P5N-*E* thread


----------



## Kripps

Alright, thanks guys. I'll make another thread for it.


----------



## mavizaman

hi everyone
biggest topic:756 pages
nice news for p5n-e sli owners








i will buy new processor e7200 or q6600
e7200:155$
q6600:240$

i will change my processor 3-4years later
in that reason i have to make correct choise

*my question:* do i must give 240$ to q6600 for 3-4years or is e7200 enough for 3-4years?

my activities:%60 music internet convert rar %40 fps games
my system: p5n-e sli 1gb ddr2 533mhz , FSP 400watt , 7900GS sonic


----------



## steelforce

OK, I hate doing this (guys aren't supposed to ask for directions, etc) - but I'm at my wits end.

Asus P5N-E SLI, BIOS 1101
4 GB Corsair XMS2 (2 Kits, TWIN2X2048-6400C4)
73 GB SATA Raptor, 2 x 500 GB HDD
Geforce 8600GTS

Stability is complete and utter crap. I can't get it to stay running for more than 5-10 minutes. OCCT crashes the system.

What BIOS settings are people using to get this @#^%@#$ thing to be stable?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *steelforce* 
OK, I hate doing this (guys aren't supposed to ask for directions, etc) - but I'm at my wits end.

Asus P5N-E SLI, BIOS 1101
4 GB Corsair XMS2 (2 Kits, TWIN2X2048-6400C4)
73 GB SATA Raptor, 2 x 500 GB HDD
Geforce 8600GTS

Stability is complete and utter crap. I can't get it to stay running for more than 5-10 minutes. OCCT crashes the system.

What BIOS settings are people using to get this @#^%@#$ thing to be stable?

What processor?
For starters manually set the voltage and timings of your ram.


----------



## steelforce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
What processor?
For starters manually set the voltage and timings of your ram.

Processor: C2D 6850 (3.0 GHz stock)

I've tried setting the timings manually (4-4-4-12), as well as slowing them down (5-5-5-15). I haven't been able to locate the correct stock voltage for the RAM, but I've tried both 1.9 and 2.0. Neither seem to have increased the stability.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *steelforce* 
Processor: C2D 6850 (3.0 GHz stock)

I've tried setting the timings manually (4-4-4-12), as well as slowing them down (5-5-5-15). I haven't been able to locate the correct stock voltage for the RAM, but I've tried both 1.9 and 2.0. Neither seem to have increased the stability.

try dropping to 2 gb ram and set default timings on your ram it needs to be on 2t for xms2 4.4.4.12 2t ill see if i can find the full list of timings and post back









here are the XMS2 cas 4 timings >
voltage is 2.1v
CAS Latency (CL)4T
RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD)4T
RAS Precharge (tRP)4T
RAS Active Time (tRAS)12T
Row Cycle Time (tRC)22T
Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)42T
Command Rate (CR)2T
RAS To RAS Delay (tRRD)3T
Write Recovery Time (tWR)5T
Read To Write Delay (tRTW)5T
Write To Read Delay (tWTR)8T

this is taken from a p5ne sli via chipset on everest

here is the EPP>

Enhanced Performance Profile
Profile NameHigh Performance
Optimal Performance ProfileYes
Memory SpeedDDR2-800 (400 MHz)
Voltage2.1 V
Memory Timings4-4-4-12 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
Row Cycle Time (tRC)22T
Command Rate (CR)2T
Write Recovery Time (tWR)6T


----------



## steelforce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


try dropping to 2 gb ram and set default timings on your ram it needs to be on 2t for xms2 4.4.4.12 2t ill see if i can find the full list of timings and post back









here are the XMS2 cas 4 timings >
voltage is 2.1v
CAS Latency (CL)4T
RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD)4T
RAS Precharge (tRP)4T
RAS Active Time (tRAS)12T
Row Cycle Time (tRC)22T
Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)42T
Command Rate (CR)2T
RAS To RAS Delay (tRRD)3T
Write Recovery Time (tWR)5T
Read To Write Delay (tRTW)5T
Write To Read Delay (tWTR)8T

this is taken from a p5ne sli via chipset on everest

here is the EPP>

Enhanced Performance Profile
Profile NameHigh Performance
Optimal Performance ProfileYes
Memory SpeedDDR2-800 (400 MHz)
Voltage2.1 V
Memory Timings4-4-4-12 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
Row Cycle Time (tRC)22T
Command Rate (CR)2T
Write Recovery Time (tWR)6T


Thanks. I'll give it a shot when I get home. I'm really hoping I can get this thing stable with 4 GB of RAM...


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steelforce*


Thanks. I'll give it a shot when I get home. I'm really hoping I can get this thing stable with 4 GB of RAM...


i had to drop to 2gb after manually adjusting timings i then popped the other 2gb in and it booted fine bear in mind my old rig is on 0608 bios with a core 2 6400 :-/


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *steelforce* 
Thanks. I'll give it a shot when I get home. I'm really hoping I can get this thing stable with 4 GB of RAM...

The northbridge might need a little extra voltage to keep 4 sticks stable. Try changing the nb voltage to 1.39v.


----------



## SlyFox

Does anyone know if the XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 fits on this motherboard? I've been thinking about upgrading my cpu cooler for a while.


----------



## K0K0_90

Hi all! Can I ask if the PCI-e works in x16 when I use single video card or it works in x8 mode always. 10x a lot and sorry for my bad English


----------



## Mickeylim

Dear all:

I have problems achieving a stable overclock on my system. Whenever I increase the FSB beyond 300 mhz (to achieve a CPU speed of beyond 2.7 Ghz with a multiplier of 9), Windows will reach the loading stage (the screen with the green progress bar oscillating), but will spontaneously reboot before hitting the desktop. At other times, I may reach the desktop, but the system will reboot after a BSOD.

My system specs are as follows:

CPU: Intel Q6600 G0 stepping. Air cooling with copper HSF
Mobo: ASUS P5N-E SLI. Stock cooling of Northbridge (passive HS)
Mem: Kingston HyperX DDR2 4-4-4-12 2T rated 2.0 V. 4 x 1 GB modules
PSU: 650 W
GPU: 8800 GT x 2 in SLI setup.
OS: Windows Vista SP1

The phenomenon described above is erratic: sometimes I am able to enter Windows and even play Crysis without any problems on 3.0 Ghz. At other times, the system will reboot after a small CPU load. It's strange because when I first started pushing up the FSB couple of months ago, there were no problems. Now it happens almost all the time when the FSB exceeds 300 Mhz.

When at stock speeds, the system is completely stable.

I know that this is unlikely a problem with temperatures, because this happens even when I boot the system cold. When I manage to get into the system at 3 Ghz, CPU temp is 47 C during Crysis. Mobo temp a bit high on load at 47 C.

I have done the following:

1) Entered stock memory timings manually. Voltage from 1.92 - 2.02 V
2) Adjusted Vcore between 1.25 - 1.30 V. Vcore offset 100mV
3) Disabled all CPU additional functions like EIST, enhanced halt state, except for execute disable bit which I left on
4) Upped the NB voltage to 1.39 V
5) Removed 2 DDR modules (in 2 combinations) to see if RAM modules at fault
6) SLI broadcast aperture ON. LDT frequency down to 2-3X
7) Set the memory divider to 1:1 (sync mode)
8) Obtained the important windows updates

All the above do not seem to make any difference.

Logically speaking, the OS should not be at fault. It shouldn't be the BIOS since the system POSTs all the time. could the issue lie with the memory? Kingston seems to be quite a reliable manufacturer though. I'm considering loosening the memory timings at higher FSB speeds, but doubt that it'll help.

Could anyone share your thoughts about the above? I would greatly appreciate any solution. Thank you! Please let me know if you need any more info.

At my wits end,

MickeyLim
Novice overclocker


----------



## steelforce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


The northbridge might need a little extra voltage to keep 4 sticks stable. Try changing the nb voltage to 1.39v.


When I got home last night, I dropped in 2 x 1 GB sticks, set the memory timings, and did a clean install of Vista x64. Worked great. Ran OCCC and stressed it for an hour, and copied a bunch of data around. Installed Server 208 on another disk, continued to work fine. I then let it sit overnight to do the Windows Update dance.

Came downstairs this morning, and saw that it was still up. Shut it down, and dropped in the other 2 identical sticks of RAM. Reboots failed (bluescreen on boot) for both Vista and Server 2008. NB voltage was already at 1.39, taking it to 1.5 (next step up) didn't help.

Anything else I can try? Would forcing the memory to run at 667 instead of 800 help?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *K0K0_90* 
Hi all! Can I ask if the PCI-e works in x16 when I use single video card or it works in x8 mode always. 10x a lot and sorry for my bad English









yes its x16 on the top slot in single card mode it only drops to 8x in sli mode duel Gpu's


----------



## K0K0_90

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
yes its x16 on the top slot in single card mode it only drops to 8x in sli mode duel Gpu's









10x


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *steelforce* 
...Would forcing the memory to run at 667 instead of 800 help?

I had one hell of a problem before, and lowering to 667 did help. But like 4-5 months later I was able to re-raise it to 800 and it worked, who knows why. Try the 667 thing.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steelforce*


When I got home last night, I dropped in 2 x 1 GB sticks, set the memory timings, and did a clean install of Vista x64. Worked great. Ran OCCC and stressed it for an hour, and copied a bunch of data around. Installed Server 208 on another disk, continued to work fine. I then let it sit overnight to do the Windows Update dance.

Came downstairs this morning, and saw that it was still up. Shut it down, and dropped in the other 2 identical sticks of RAM. Reboots failed (bluescreen on boot) for both Vista and Server 2008. NB voltage was already at 1.39, taking it to 1.5 (next step up) didn't help.

Anything else I can try? Would forcing the memory to run at 667 instead of 800 help?


take the sticks that you added and run only them. It's possible that they are bad sticks. Memtest86 is a great way to detect bad memory.


----------



## marsey99

could also be dodgey slots, test each stick in each slot to see if its the board not the ram.


----------



## steelforce

Both good suggestions, and ones I'll do when I get home. I just "assumed" that everything was working good out of the box - but you know what happens when you assume...


----------



## deltaepsylon

This is slightly offtopic from steelforce's problem (ok, very offtopic). Is it possible to run a graphics card in the second PCI-e slot on the P5N-E Sli? It's a hell of a lot more convenient to run it in the second slot in terms of ease of cooling. I tried it, the computer booted and all but the card wasn't giving any video signal (Only reason I was able to tell it posted&booted was b/c after about 30 seconds I heard the vista sounds).


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


I meant 1 step up, which I believe is .00625v.

And no that is not your nb voltage. In the bios you should set it to 1.39. 1500 is close enough to 1600 that it may need a little extra juice. But first try with the extra vcore.

edit: Wait, you have the vcore on auto?


Thanks for your help dude








I was able to get it to *3.0 GHZ*. It has been running stable for about a week now. I have stress-tested it thoroughly, I think, with no problems.

What is your opinion of *updating the BIOS* if my current one appears stable


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead* 
Thanks for your help dude








I was able to get it to *3.0 GHZ*. It has been running stable for about a week now. I have stress-tested it thoroughly, I think, with no problems.

What is your opinion of *updating the BIOS* if my current one appears stable

If everything is working fine I would not update the bios. Only upgrade it if you need support for something like a new cpu that isn't supported by the current bios.
Congrats on the successful oc! What voltage are you using?


----------



## Pumpkinhead

Now the Vcore is set 1 set up ( +.00625 ) to =1.406325v
it was =Auto.

CPU-z is reporting it as *1.408* and Everest at 1.41 V.

And yes, that is what I thought about the BIOS question. "If it ain't broke, don't frak with it".


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pumpkinhead*


Now the Vcore is set 1 set up ( +.00625 ) to =1.406325v
it was =Auto.

CPU-z is reporting it as *1.408 *and Everest at 1.41 V.

And yes, that is what I thought about the BIOS question. "If it ain't broke, don't frak with it".


Sounds like a good voltage. I would check with a program like coretemp (if you haven't already) to make sure your temperatures are ok...I imagine they would be with your current hsf.
edit: (deleted some text)oops forgot you stress tested it....


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


This is slightly offtopic from steelforce's problem (ok, very offtopic). Is it possible to run a graphics card in the second PCI-e slot on the P5N-E Sli? It's a hell of a lot more convenient to run it in the second slot in terms of ease of cooling. I tried it, the computer booted and all but the card wasn't giving any video signal (Only reason I was able to tell it posted&booted was b/c after about 30 seconds I heard the vista sounds).


if its single card mode only the top slot is supported unfortunately


----------



## deltaepsylon

Aww. So ABSOLUTELY no way to force it? like, idk, enable sli or something and see if it lets me read off the 2nd card... waaaah. Stiking the card in slot 2 would have let me had a 120mm fan blowing straight onto the NB


----------



## wcl

anyone been able to modify the cpu multiplier with bios 1101? mine always resets to 9 after a reboot. Tried changing it to 10 and then 8 as a test.


----------



## steelforce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steelforce*


Both good suggestions, and ones I'll do when I get home. I just "assumed" that everything was working good out of the box - but you know what happens when you assume...


OK - so I swapped out the sticks of RAM, and ran through another stress test overnight. Everything worked great. I'm next going to run memtest86 on both sets of RAM separately in the known good slots to confirm the RAM is good. Then I'll drop all 4 slots in and see if I still crash - if I do, then the issue is going to be with the motherboard.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *steelforce* 
OK - so I swapped out the sticks of RAM, and ran through another stress test overnight. Everything worked great. I'm next going to run memtest86 on both sets of RAM separately in the known good slots to confirm the RAM is good. Then I'll drop all 4 slots in and see if I still crash - if I do, then the issue is going to be with the motherboard.

Have you tried upping the NB voltage a notch? I read somewhere that when using 4 sticks of RAM, you needed to raise it b/c of the increased load on the NB.


----------



## TheAgeOfMen

*OC Bonus?*

Well i managed to OC my DRAM/FSB to 1:1 using multiplier 7x 400mhzQDR(1600) and 800mhz mem bus @ 5-4-4-12, now i thought i would get a bonus, but i dont rly see the bonus when i bench my bandwich? :****er:

*The 1:1 OC 7*400*









*The 6:5 OC 8*350*









*The 1:1 OC 7*425*









So why aint im getting the "bonus" or whatever ive been hearing







, if that is the bonus it wont even matter :infinity::biggun::biggun:

Thnx

Quote:



Ow yes, how do i config these settings:

voltage is 1.9v
CAS Latency (CL) 5T
RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD) 4T
RAS Precharge (tRP) 4T
RAS Active Time (tRAS) 12T
Row Cycle Time (tRC) ??T
Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) ??T
Command Rate (CR) ?T
RAS To RAS Delay (tRRD) ?T
Write Recovery Time (tWR) ?T
Read To Write Delay (tRTW) ?T
Write To Read Delay (tWTR) ?T


Thnx again


----------



## TheAgeOfMen

And does anyone having problems running 8*400 with 1101 BIOS?


----------



## TheAgeOfMen

ROFL

Downgraded my 1101 BIOS to the 0803 BIOS, and now i am able to get 8*400=3.2ghz 1:1 400 (800) ddr2 @ 5-4-4-12


----------



## marsey99

1:1 gives added stability i found the sweet spot was 1600 fsb 1000ddr 5:4 on mine mate.

your best of doing what you are and testing each setting but you should also note how each ratio feels just to use as some just felt faster to use even tho other settings gave higher scores in different benchmarks.


----------



## TheAgeOfMen

BIOS 0608 gives me a stable OC @ 400*8


----------



## TheAgeOfMen

Btw anyone know how i can see the NB temp?

Its not showing in Everest, or is it the mobo temp? :O


----------



## deltaepsylon

Cant, afaik. The mobo temp seems to be a combination of the two ?


----------



## marsey99

the location of the "motherboard" sensor was debated for quite some time, here and on other forums but i dont think we ever got a deffinative answer.

personally i think its around the first pcie slot as mine would rise and fall in line with my gpu pcb temp more than any other action.

there is no sensor on the nb so if you want a rough idea you will need to get a thermal probe an attatch it to the base of the heatsink, mine would tell me around 10c higher than the "moherboard" would report, fyi


----------



## deltaepsylon

Well, we can always just put an icepack on the PCie slot and go into bios, without having a vidcard in...

Is the E6850 just a QX6850 with 2 cores disabled?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Well, we can always just put an icepack on the PCie slot and go into bios, without having a vidcard in...

Is the E6850 just a QX6850 with 2 cores disabled?

no completly different chip the E6850 is a duel core cpu different architecture etc.. the QX is a quad core


----------



## TL0000

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
1:1 gives added stability i found the sweet spot was 1600 fsb 1000ddr 5:4 on mine mate.

your best of doing what you are and testing each setting but you should also note how each ratio feels just to use as some just felt faster to use even tho other settings gave higher scores in different benchmarks.

OPINION What makes you think that cannot run Manual/ Unlinked and have good stability. When running at 1-1 you are decreasing performance usually.
I would only use 1-1 if computer would not run any other way.

My cpu is overclocked as is memory and I can guarantee if is extremely stable. Try to run Manual / Unlinked and see if you do not get better results.
If you run prime 95 for 24 hrs and memtest 86 for 24 hrs then will not have to worry about stability. Generally 1-1 is something like a urban myth. Especially with so few linked settings on this MB

This goes for all linked settings unless can achieve better results in linked. And I hardly believe that as linked is always a compromise setting

The best way to overclock in find the Highest FSB that will test out with no errors. Then find the highest memory speed that will test with no errors. Now set bios for those figures and note that usually you memory speed will be less than highest tested setting. You will be running at actual memory speed. So if running unlinked the cpu is still linked to memory in a small way. You will have two memory speeds what you set and (ACTUAL) WHAT MEMORY IS RUNNING AT.


----------



## ragugh

ohai









well, you can see my specs for my pc
i just ordered a e8400
was wondering what settings i might use for overclocking it
and how far it might be able to go


----------



## ragugh

mind you, i'm very noob with overclocking.
i semi understand the basic mechanics of what to do and what can be achieved, but little/no experience with it


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ragugh* 
ohai









well, you can see my specs for my pc
i just ordered a e8400
was wondering what settings i might use for overclocking it
and how far it might be able to go









If you have a good chip 4ghz is a possibility. But imo a good 24/7 oc would be 3.6ghz: it will be in a 1:1 ratio with 800mhz ram.
I would shoot for 3.6ghz, and make sure you use more than 1.3625v.


----------



## thunder12

hi, i have just bought a new P5N-E and a asus EN8800GT gfx card, my ram is OCZ gold 800mhz 5-5-5-15 timings dual channel and i have 4 of these 1gb ram sticks. MY problem is that my computer switches on fine, fans moving at full speed so i know it isnt a psu problem(1000w psu) , but the bios simply does not come up, i have tried 2 different graphics cards and an older processor but these do not help either. When i switch the psu on, the green MOBO LED comes on so i kno power is getting to it btw. When switching my computer on without any ram installed a long continuous beeping is heard, so i tihnk my mobo knows when the ram is there or not(same with gfx card). I have also tried with just one stick of ram or 2 sticks. Is it my RAM or my MOBO that is faulty? any help is apreciated, thanks alot.

Oh btw, RAM- http://www.ebuyer.com/product/114728


----------



## PhoenixBalm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
hi, i have just bought a new P5N-E and a asus EN8800GT gfx card, my ram is OCZ gold 800mhz 5-5-5-15 timings dual channel and i have 4 of these 1gb ram sticks. MY problem is that my computer switches on fine, fans moving at full speed so i know it isnt a psu problem(1000w psu) , but the bios simply does not come up, i have tried 2 different graphics cards and an older processor but these do not help either. When i switch the psu on, the green MOBO LED comes on so i kno power is getting to it btw. When switching my computer on without any ram installed a long continuous beeping is heard, so i tihnk my mobo knows when the ram is there or not(same with gfx card). I have also tried with just one stick of ram or 2 sticks. Is it my RAM or my MOBO that is faulty? any help is apreciated, thanks alot.

Oh btw, RAM- http://www.ebuyer.com/product/114728

Have you got the Red chip which determines sli switched to single video card?

Hang in there - I'll try and get to the bottom of your problem mate


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
hi, i have just bought a new P5N-E and a asus EN8800GT gfx card, my ram is OCZ gold 800mhz 5-5-5-15 timings dual channel and i have 4 of these 1gb ram sticks. MY problem is that my computer switches on fine, fans moving at full speed so i know it isnt a psu problem(1000w psu) , but the bios simply does not come up, i have tried 2 different graphics cards and an older processor but these do not help either. When i switch the psu on, the green MOBO LED comes on so i kno power is getting to it btw. When switching my computer on without any ram installed a long continuous beeping is heard, so i tihnk my mobo knows when the ram is there or not(same with gfx card). I have also tried with just one stick of ram or 2 sticks. Is it my RAM or my MOBO that is faulty? any help is apreciated, thanks alot.

Oh btw, RAM- http://www.ebuyer.com/product/114728

unplug everything from the computer except the vital components. Have 1 stick of ram, no hdds or cd drives, no soundcard, no peripherals. And while you're detaching things, unplug the computer and take the battery out of the motherboard for 5minutes to reset the bios.


----------



## PhoenixBalm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


unplug everything from the computer except the vital components. Have 1 stick of ram, no hdds or cd drives, no soundcard, no peripherals. And while you're detaching things, unplug the computer and take the battery out of the motherboard for 5minutes to reset the bios.


This guy's right

Do that.

Also, have you tried the monitor with another PC?

Try attaching the monitor to both outputs, as one may be faulty.

If you have a TV, which supports it, try using the S-VIDEO output.


----------



## thunder12

done that, still nothing.







im really stressed out with this. kinda panicing : /


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
done that, still nothing.







im really stressed out with this. kinda panicing : /

make sure both the 24pin and the 4pin power cables are connected to the mobo.

You didn't put any extra standoffs in the case did you? They could short the mobo causing it not to boot.


----------



## thunder12

extra standoffs, now that is a possibility, i didnt think about that. Its my first build so...will that have damaged it if i have? I mean i dont thin i have but i shall check.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
extra standoffs, now that is a possibility, i didnt think about that. Its my first build so...will that have damaged it if i have? I mean i dont thin i have but i shall check.

it's possible it's damaged, but some people have done it and the pc survives.


----------



## thunder12

just checked, i have no extra standoffs


----------



## Gauvenator

hmmm...you are putting the video card in the blue slot right?


----------



## thunder12

yep and it is in single mode


----------



## Gauvenator

does your power supply have am 8pin cpu power connector? or 4 pin?


----------



## thunder12

4pin, im pretty sure, this is the one that goes in the top left?

btw thanks for ure super fast speedy replies


----------



## ragugh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
If you have a good chip 4ghz is a possibility. But imo a good 24/7 oc would be 3.6ghz: it will be in a 1:1 ratio with 800mhz ram.
I would shoot for 3.6ghz, and make sure you use more than 1.3625v.


thank you for your advice, do you have a MSN or AIM or XFIRE that i might be able to talk to you on when i get my processor in about 2 days time?

-another thought:
i've heard of people getting 4.2ghz very stable on this board and proc.
so, i was hoping for 4.0 ghz, you have any specific insight?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
4pin, im pretty sure, this is the one that goes in the top left?

btw thanks for ure super fast speedy replies









yah thats the one. I was thinking maybe it was plugged in wrong.


----------



## thunder12

so do u reckon its the mobo? ive spoken to two other ppl and they have both said it saounds like a mobo problem. And na it wasnt plugged in wrong


----------



## PhoenixBalm

I'd say that's the problem mate... sorry about that.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
so do u reckon its the mobo? ive spoken to two other ppl and they have both said it saounds like a mobo problem.

yeh I'd say that's it


----------



## ragugh

i dont know if this is related
but my friend just had me build him some computer, with random parts.

it was an intel motherboard
and, he had a nice q6600
with a 9800GX2
everything would power on, no beep codes, hdd would spin up, so would disc drive when we had the windows disc in
but no video out of the card
so, after reseating the card like 2 times, it started working.. my theory is that stupid coating on the pins that they have sometimes
anywho, hope this helps.


----------



## thunder12

hmm u mean reseating it on the standoffs? thank god i bought from a reliable company, if it is a mobo problem i will sure enough get a replacement. btw thnaks for ure replies, ure both very kind


----------



## thunder12

the ram is definately compatible? other people say they have used it but im not sure if its the dual channel ones they are using?


----------



## thunder12

neway its getting late now, i will try again with the comp tmoz.

Thunder


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
hmm u mean reseating it on the standoffs? thank god i bought from a reliable company, if it is a mobo problem i will sure enough get a replacement. btw thnaks for ure replies, ure both very kind









I think he means to reseat the processor


----------



## ragugh

as usual
my thoughts were jumbled and didnt come out right and i forgot what i was talking about
lol


----------



## Snake_A

Hello Im new here !

My Pc Specs:

Asus P5n-e sli
Q6600 G0
Corsair Domin. 2gb 800mhz
Zotac 8800GTS 512mb
2x W.D Raptor 74gb 10k RPM
550W POWER P.SU
Cpu cooler: Zalman Fatal1ty

I tried o.c my q6600. But i failed... I reached only 2.89ghz and then the hole pc freezes and i have to reset bios to fix this..

Can anyone help me step by step how to overclock my q6600 ?
Send me an email : [email protected] Or post a reply here!

Thank you in advance!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Snake_A* 
Hello Im new here !

My Pc Specs:

Asus P5n-e sli
Q6600 G0
Corsair Domin. 2gb 800mhz
Zotac 8800GTS 512mb
2x W.D Raptor 74gb 10k RPM
550W POWER P.SU
Cpu cooler: Zalman Fatal1ty

I tried o.c my q6600. But i failed... I reached only 2.89ghz and then the hole pc freezes and i have to reset bios to fix this..

Can anyone help me step by step how to overclock my q6600 ?
Send me an email : [email protected] Or post a reply here!

Thank you in advance!

sorry but the q6600 only can oc to about 3ghz if you are lucky with this motherboard. 2.89 isn't bad


----------



## Snake_A

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
sorry but the q6600 only can oc to about 3ghz if you are lucky with this motherboard. 2.89 isn't bad









Can you suggest me motherboards that are good for OC (and value for money







)


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Snake_A* 
Can you suggest me motherboards that are good for OC (and value for money







)

I recommend the Gigabyte EP35-DS3L for an awesome budget board. It's only $85 on newegg and is a great oc'er. If you want raid go for the EP35-DS3R, which is a little more expensive.

edit: maybe the EP45-DS3L would be a good choice too, if it's just the same as the EP35 only with a P45 chipset.

Oh and does it have to have SLI? Because the boards I've recommended don't.


----------



## Snake_A

No, its not necessary







... Thank you !


----------



## Perry

Ok folks. I'm stuck.

I cannot seem to get my E2180 over 3Ghz. The only thing I haven't done is punch up the northbridge. Now I know this board has a pretty large FSB hole so I'm going to try and drop the multiplier and power through it.

Earlier I gave up on my 4Ghz run because I just couldn't get it to go so now I'm looking for some advice.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Ok folks. I'm stuck.

I cannot seem to get my E2180 over 3Ghz. The only thing I haven't done is punch up the northbridge. Now I know this board has a pretty large FSB hole so I'm going to try and drop the multiplier and power through it.

Earlier I gave up on my 4Ghz run because I just couldn't get it to go so now I'm looking for some advice.


I've heard that the e21xx chips start eating up voltage at 3ghz and above.


----------



## ragapot12

Hello all heres my specs-
P5N-e SLI
C2d E6850
Corsair XMS2 CM2X1024-6400c4 [email protected]
2 8800 gt
Thermaltake toughpower 850w power supply
Zalman 9700cnps cpu cooler
NZXT Lexa Blackline Case

Ok, heres the prob. I would like to oc my cpu to at least 3.6.
As soon as I overclock the processor to this speed, I get errors in Orthos while stressing ram in less than 7-8 minutes. If the cpu runs at stock speed, no errors at all when testing the ram. The ram is not overclocked btw. I am a noob to overclocking so any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ragapot12*


Hello all heres my specs-
P5N-e SLI
C2d E6850
Corsair XMS2 CM2X1024-6400c4 [email protected]
2 8800 gt
Thermaltake toughpower 850w power supply
Zalman 9700cnps cpu cooler
NZXT Lexa Blackline Case

Ok, heres the prob. I would like to oc my cpu to at least 3.6.
As soon as I overclock the processor to this speed, I get errors in Orthos while stressing ram in less than 7-8 minutes. If the cpu runs at stock speed, no errors at all when testing the ram. The ram is not overclocked btw. I am a noob to overclocking so any help would be greatly appreciated.


you need to adjust your cpu vcore. What fsb are you running at? because it's possible you need to raise the nb voltage too.

you can determine your stock voltage using CoreTemp. The VID is the default voltage for your particular chip.


----------



## Whodie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Perry*


Ok folks. I'm stuck.

I cannot seem to get my E2180 over 3Ghz. The only thing I haven't done is punch up the northbridge. Now I know this board has a pretty large FSB hole so I'm going to try and drop the multiplier and power through it.

Earlier I gave up on my 4Ghz run because I just couldn't get it to go so now I'm looking for some advice.


You're going to need to drop that multi and be prepared to pump some vcore.

I had a P5N-E SLI in my fiancee's rig with a E2140. It took about 1.43 vcore to hit 8 x 425


----------



## ragapot12

I am currently running fsb at stock-1333mhz. To get to 3.6ghz the fsb has to be at 1600. Stock voltage according to coretemp is 1.35v. I have tried 1600fsb 800mhz mem at 4-4-4-12 with vcore at 1.44. I have run orthos for an hour with this only stressing cpu with small ffts and no problem. It's when I use large ffts(Stress some ram) that I get errors within 6-7 minutes. If I have fsb at stock 1333 with ram at same timings as listed above, no problems with the orthos stress some ram test. Maybe you could walk me through overclocking my system? What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ragapot12*


I am currently running fsb at stock-1333mhz. To get to 3.6ghz the fsb has to be at 1600. Stock voltage according to coretemp is 1.35v. I have tried 1600fsb 800mhz mem at 4-4-4-12 with vcore at 1.44. I have run orthos for an hour with this only stressing cpu with small ffts and no problem. It's when I use large ffts(Stress some ram) that I get errors within 6-7 minutes. If I have fsb at stock 1333 with ram at same timings as listed above, no problems with the orthos stress some ram test. Maybe you could walk me through overclocking my system? What am I doing wrong?


sounds like the nb needs more voltage. You're running unlinked right?


----------



## ragapot12

I have tried linked and unlinked. I had nb voltage up to 1.39. Should I go up another notch? What about the ram divider? I noticed when running at stock it's 5:6. When I have 1600 fsb 800mhz ram speed it's 1:1 according to CPU-Z.
I could play games with the overclock but it would eventually freeze up and I would have to reboot the pc. Oh, I have performed the pencil mod too btw...

One more thing, my ram voltage is 2.10 but in the bios it goes from 2.08 to 2.17? What should I set this at?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ragapot12* 
I have tried linked and unlinked. I had nb voltage up to 1.39. Should I go up another notch? What about the ram divider? I noticed when running at stock it's 5:6. When I have 1600 fsb 800mhz ram speed it's 1:1 according to CPU-Z.
I could play games with the overclock but it would eventually freeze up and I would have to reboot the pc. Oh, I have performed the pencil mod too btw...

Yeh I would go one step further with the nb voltage. But first you need to at least set a fast fan over it, so you can just test to see if it solves the problem.

If it does, then I would invest in a better nb cooler like a Thermalright HR-05.


----------



## ragapot12

Ok, I will try that and let you know if it worked or not. What about the memory voltage?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ragapot12* 
Ok, I will try that and let you know if it worked or not. What about the memory voltage?

you shouldn't have to worry about that as long as you don't oc the memory


----------



## ragapot12

Thanks, man! I have run the Orthos ram stress test for over 2hrs now no errors! I mounted an old intel cpu fan on the nb. I have already replaced the tim with AS Ceramique. Would AS5 make any difference? I will probably end up ordering a heatsink for the nb but I am not sure the one you suggested would fit with the big zalman 9700....One more question, do you think I could hit 3.8? If so, what would be a good vcore starting point? Thanks again!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ragapot12* 
Thanks, man! I have run the Orthos ram stress test for over 2hrs now no errors! I mounted an old intel cpu fan on the nb. I have already replaced the tim with AS Ceramique. Would AS5 make any difference? I will probably end up ordering a heatsink for the nb but I am not sure the one you suggested would fit with the big zalman 9700....One more question, do you think I could hit 3.8? If so, what would be a good vcore starting point? Thanks again!

oh perfect!! you should be fine since you replaced the tim.

You might hit 3.8...just try it and if it isn't stable use more vcore









edit: as5 should not make a noticeable difference


----------



## ragapot12

Thanks again Gauvenator!


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
I've heard that the e21xx chips start eating up voltage at 3ghz and above.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Whodie* 
You're going to need to drop that multi and be prepared to pump some vcore.

I had a P5N-E SLI in my fiancee's rig with a E2140. It took about 1.43 vcore to hit 8 x 425

Yep. It does suck up voltage. Right now I'm at 1.41 but I went all the way up to 1.47 to try and hit 3.2Ghz but no love.

Tomorrow will be my first slow day in weeks so I'm hoping to sit down and really try to dial in a higher overclock.

***EDIT***
Well I managed to get 3.5Ghz to post and make it to the boot loader but I couldn't get much further than that. To even get it to post I had to go with 1.475v for the vcore and 1.563v for the northbridge. 3.4Ghz didn't fair any better with the same settings. Even 3.2Ghz wouldn't go with the same settings so I think I've found that FSB hole. Somewhere above 1200 straight up to about 1300. Couple that with my chip being one of the newer batches and needing much more vcore than previous batches and I'm pretty much stuck at 3Ghz unless I can figure out a way to get 3.4 stable.

My main concern is whether or not 1.56v for the northbridge with the stock heatsink reseated with some AS5 will be too much for 24/7 use and why does about .032v get tacked on to my vcore when I load into Windows? My current vcore for 3Ghz is 1.41 in the BIOS but 1.44 in Windows. If I were to go above 1.475v for my vcore I would be over the 1.5v mark and that's not an option as far as I'm concerned.


----------



## shackles4uall

Hey Guys,
Brand new here because I am tired of fumbling around in the dark. All I want to do is USE my 4th stick of RAM and maybe get my Q6600 up around 2.7. Every time i try to fool around in BIOS to get my voltage up so this 4th stick will work it crashes out and won't even start to load the POST, until i power down and remove the stick. My POST tells me i am running ram in Single Channel Mode and I can't get the dang thing to stay stable at all. All the info i KNOW to give is in my sig. If I need to provide something else, could someone point me in that direction....PLZ!







Thanks so much.


----------



## UkGouki

^do you know what bios version your pc is on? the only way i got all 4 sticks working is when i went to 0803 bios :-/


----------



## deltaepsylon

Yep, bios upgrade ftw.

BTW, I finally resolved my old problem of the computer randomly shutting down when under stress. I had the company replace my mobo and RAM (Still running P5N-E and Mushkin RAM), and its been running 2 instances of orthos with affinities set for 23 hours 45 minutes 50 seconds







I think my previous best with orthos was like 2 hrs....


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shackles4uall*


Hey Guys,
Brand new here because I am tired of fumbling around in the dark. All I want to do is USE my 4th stick of RAM and maybe get my Q6600 up around 2.7. Every time i try to fool around in BIOS to get my voltage up so this 4th stick will work it crashes out and won't even start to load the POST, until i power down and remove the stick. My POST tells me i am running ram in Single Channel Mode and I can't get the dang thing to stay stable at all. All the info i KNOW to give is in my sig. If I need to provide something else, could someone point me in that direction....PLZ!







Thanks so much.


You may need more northbridge voltage for 4 sticks. Try the 1.39v setting.


----------



## MrQ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shackles4uall* 
Hey Guys,
Brand new here because I am tired of fumbling around in the dark. All I want to do is USE my 4th stick of RAM and maybe get my Q6600 up around 2.7. Every time i try to fool around in BIOS to get my voltage up so this 4th stick will work it crashes out and won't even start to load the POST, until i power down and remove the stick. My POST tells me i am running ram in Single Channel Mode and I can't get the dang thing to stay stable at all. All the info i KNOW to give is in my sig. If I need to provide something else, could someone point me in that direction....PLZ!







Thanks so much.

Check the link in my sig to get 3ghz on your quad. I run all 4 sticks of my ram on the 0603 BIOS.


----------



## ragapot12

OK, had my vcore at 1.44, [email protected], ram at 800mhz, ran orthos for 8 hours last night with no problems. Today I added another 80mm fan to my case, ran orthos again and it ran for 1 minute and rebooted. I haven't changed any bios settings. I did add a heatsink to the southbridge. I'm sure I'll catch some hell for this, I used 4 drops of acrylic nail glue at each corner to hold the hs on and as5 in the middle of the chip. Maybe this has something to do with it? Would adding a fan make a stable oc unstable? I don't understand why it ran 8 hrs last night, but now won't run more than a few minutes? Oh, and I did install new display drivers but uninstalled them and reinstalled my old ones. My core temps last night were hovering around 59-60 at orthos load and adding more vcore means temps will go higher. Help?


----------



## shackles4uall

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shackles4uall* 
Hey Guys,
Brand new here because I am tired of fumbling around in the dark. All I want to do is USE my 4th stick of RAM and maybe get my Q6600 up around 2.7. Every time i try to fool around in BIOS to get my voltage up so this 4th stick will work it crashes out and won't even start to load the POST, until i power down and remove the stick. My POST tells me i am running ram in Single Channel Mode and I can't get the dang thing to stay stable at all. All the info i KNOW to give is in my sig. If I need to provide something else, could someone point me in that direction....PLZ!







Thanks so much.

He's another question... Will using 2 or even 3 2GB sticks be an easier way to up the RAM as opposed to trying to just run 4 1GB sticks? And *** is my PC running Single channel Ram... is that related to only using 3 sticks instead of 2 pair...?

LOL i find it ironic that, as a PC enthusiast wannabe, I don't even know elementary OC crap. Yet everyone at work thinks I'm such a PC geek.
Please help me work this out... I LIKE being a geek.


----------



## UkGouki

well my board is either on its way out or dieing see my rant in off topic ive had to rma both my 8800gts's bottom one was smoking now Both wont work no matter what and i had to drop my 2.8ghz o/c DOWN to stock









now using my Old 7900gtx until bfg send me replacements me = very peeved with my motherboard


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ragapot12*


OK, had my vcore at 1.44, [email protected], ram at 800mhz, ran orthos for 8 hours last night with no problems. Today I added another 80mm fan to my case, ran orthos again and it ran for 1 minute and rebooted. I haven't changed any bios settings. I did add a heatsink to the southbridge. I'm sure I'll catch some hell for this, I used 4 drops of acrylic nail glue at each corner to hold the hs on and as5 in the middle of the chip. Maybe this has something to do with it? Would adding a fan make a stable oc unstable? I don't understand why it ran 8 hrs last night, but now won't run more than a few minutes? Oh, and I did install new display drivers but uninstalled them and reinstalled my old ones. My core temps last night were hovering around 59-60 at orthos load and adding more vcore means temps will go higher. Help?


Yeah. You will get raped by the higher ups for that nail glue







. What probably could have happend, is that before cool air running over the chip was keeping it going. But now, the nail glue is acting as an insulator keeping the chip hot. Exactly how much nail glue did you use?


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shackles4uall*


He's another question... Will using 2 or even 3 2GB sticks be an easier way to up the RAM as opposed to trying to just run 4 1GB sticks? And *** is my PC running Single channel Ram... is that related to only using 3 sticks instead of 2 pair...?

LOL i find it ironic that, as a PC enthusiast wannabe, I don't even know elementary OC crap. Yet everyone at work thinks I'm such a PC geek.
Please help me work this out... I LIKE being a geek.










You brought the ram sticks in a set right? A dual channel set? Basically, just make sure those sticks are in matching coloured sockets. So one stick in the first yellow and one in the second yellow. Skipping the grey slot.

3 2gb sticks wouldnt be a good idea. Its good to have dual channel kits matching the sockets. I would get a 2gb set now and upgrade later (with the same set). (Thats what i am doing).

Your geekiness is restored.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


well my board is either on its way out or dieing see my rant in off topic ive had to rma both my 8800gts's bottom one was smoking now Both wont work no matter what and i had to drop my 2.8ghz o/c DOWN to stock









now using my Old 7900gtx until bfg send me replacements me = very peeved with my motherboard










Could be your PSU? Would be a good idea to get that checked out. You making sure not to overclock the PCIE slots right?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Butterbum* 
>snipped<

Could be your PSU? Would be a good idea to get that checked out. You making sure not to overclock the PCIE slots right?

its not my psu ive never OC'd ,my graphics cards there factory O/C the bottom cards fan had died by the looks of it and thats fried the bottom pci/e slot as well as took out my other card :swearing:

im on single card mode on my old 7900gtx i do have 2 of them i treid to sli them but the bottom card wouldnt recognise its my board its been doing funny ***** for months now.

im gonna get a new mobo in approx 3 days going to a 780i asus p5nt delux if i have the money after paying bills etc left :/


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:



its not my psu ive never OC'd


What is your reasoning behind that? It could maybe be one of the addition graphics card power supply cables. While, it looks like your mobo is ******, you dont want to blow up another one with a dodgy psu too.

Have you tried the other 7900gtx in the first slot? Maybe that port has fried the other card too.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Butterbum*


What is your reasoning behind that? It could maybe be one of the addition graphics card power supply cables. While, it looks like your mobo is ******, you dont want to blow up another one with a dodgy psu too.

Have you tried the other 7900gtx in the first slot? Maybe that port has fried the other card too.


yes both work in the top slot :-/


----------



## ragapot12

I only used a small drop at each corner of the chip, then as5 in the middle. Last night after I made that post, I reset the bios to setup defaults, put my settings in again, and it ran for 4 hours at 1.44 without a hitch. I am not sure what happened. When I get more time I will run it for 8 hours again. Oh, the hs gets hot to the touch, so apparently it's working, and I am stuck with it since it won't come off now, Doh!


----------



## Butterbum

Which heatsink does? The southbridge? Thats good if it is. The Zalman shouldnt get hot to the touch, mine never has, works a charm.

You got a new northbridge heatsink? How hot is the nb getting?

Can anybody help me, i have no idea how the **** you get the northbridge off this mobo :/


----------



## deltaepsylon

There are some black pushpins in between the Fin areas, if you trace them to the back of the board you will see them (they're 'barbed'). I took it off by using needlenose plyers, use them to grip the barbs and press them in so that the pushpins come loose. Be careful not to slip and damage the motherboard with the pliers though. On the heatsink there's some really crusty/thick stuff that is impossible to get away with cloth, you gotta use something like a butterknife. Mebbe rubbing alcohol might work to loosen it up, didn't try.


----------



## Gauvenator

If you're not good with needlenose pliers, try using your fingers. It's a little safer. As for the thermal material, I loosened it with alcohol and scraped it off with my fingernail.


----------



## Butterbum

White spirit will get rid of anything









So, i have to take the mobo out right?







To get at the back.


----------



## thetexasranger

Please if anyone can help with this I'd be much obliged.This morning my computer was working fine. However I just started up my PC and it cant even post bios anymore(using ASUS P5N-E Sli with latest BIOS). Yesterday I wanted to check my bios and I hit Load Default setup by accident. Had to go back and set RAM timings and voltage manually. Everything seemed fine. But now nada. I went ahead and cleared the CMOS and it looked like it mightve worked when I was able to get to the BIOS ever so briefly before my system froze. So to reiterate it just hangs on the intial screen, I can hold/hit delete as long as I want....it wont let me get to the BIOS setup.
I've been told my power supply is sketchy could that be an issue? The only other useful piece of information is that my processor gets hotter than I'd like even with the Xigmatek Riffle which may not be on right. It gets sometimes gets up to 60 C (per Core temp). (I've bought mounting brackets today they're on the way). Is my processor burned out? Below are system specs. Thanks for any help.

Processor: Q9450 (not OCed). CPU Fan: Xigmatek Riffle. PSU: Sigma Shark 630 W. Mobo: Asus P5N-E Sli RAM: 8 GB (6400) OCZ Sli-Ready (not OCed was running at manufacturers specs 5-4-4-15 at about 2.1 V). Evga Geforce 8800 GT. OS: Vista 64. HDDs: Barracuda 7200.11 750 GB and Hitachi Deskstar 160 GB. Also I'm using 4 80 mm fans, 1 120 mm fan, and a Northbridge fan/heatsink.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thetexasranger*


Please if anyone can help with this I'd be much obliged.This morning my computer was working fine. However I just started up my PC and it cant even post bios anymore(using ASUS P5N-E Sli with latest BIOS). Yesterday I wanted to check my bios and I hit Load Default setup by accident. Had to go back and set RAM timings and voltage manually. Everything seemed fine. But now nada. I went ahead and cleared the CMOS and it looked like it mightve worked when I was able to get to the BIOS ever so briefly before my system froze. So to reiterate it just hangs on the intial screen, I can hold/hit delete as long as I want....it wont let me get to the BIOS setup.
I've been told my power supply is sketchy could that be an issue? The only other useful piece of information is that my processor gets hotter than I'd like even with the Xigmatek Riffle which may not be on right. It gets sometimes gets up to 60 C (per Core temp). (I've bought mounting brackets today they're on the way). Is my processor burned out? Below are system specs. Thanks for any help.

Processor: Q9450 (not OCed). CPU Fan: Xigmatek Riffle. PSU: Sigma Shark 630 W. Mobo: Asus P5N-E Sli RAM: 8 GB (6400) OCZ Sli-Ready (not OCed was running at manufacturers specs 5-4-4-15 at about 2.1 V). Evga Geforce 8800 GT. OS: Vista 64. HDDs: Barracuda 7200.11 750 GB and Hitachi Deskstar 160 GB. Also I'm using 4 80 mm fans, 1 120 mm fan, and a Northbridge fan/heatsink.


Your processor is not burned out by temps like those. It could be the power supply...try booting with one stick of ram and only your primary hdd.


----------



## ragapot12

ButterBum, I was talking about the sb hs getting hot to the touch. I am using the stock nb cooler reseated with as5 and I mounted a small fan on it. Before I mounted the fan on it it was so hot I couldn't touch it for more than a few seconds. With the fan on, it just feels warm. Be careful with those black push pins, I broke the barb off one of mine taking it off. I got it fixed though...


----------



## stucknnola

Hello again loyal P5N-E SLI fans. I have two issues currently.

1. Often times my board doesn't post after I shut it down. I have to wait for 3-10 minutes of it being completely off, as in off switch on PSU, before it will post. She runs just fine once in windows. I'm not sure what to make of the not posting thing. I have not touched my OC settings at all and my temps are good.

2. The USB plug between the two PCI express x1 slots doesn't seem to work anymore. I have a flash card reader that stopped working. I swapped the front panel USB and the card reader plug locations on the MOBO. After the swap the front panel stoped working while the card reader works. Which leads me to believe that one of the usb "plugs" (must be a better term for those pins) is no longer functional. If that is the case is there a way to fix it or get it fixed?

If I'm completely off the mark please through me a bone.

thanks,

g


----------



## CritiCal

My P5N-E SLI failed after 8 months of use.


----------



## chunky114

I'm having a problem with my P5N-E SLI whenever i press shutdown on windows the screen is still up and my mouse and keyboard are off, and I have to hold the button on my case down to shut off.

Is There any Fix for this?


----------



## deltaepsylon

chunky114: I dont think thats a motherboard related problem, but I'm not quite sure I understood you. You hit shutdown in the start menu, and then the mouse and keyboard freeze but the Windows doesn't shut down? In that case, I dont think its a motherboard. Try going to start > Run and type shutdown.exe /s and see if it will turn of the computer.


----------



## derelict360

I'm thinking about overclocking my Q6600 to 3.0 using the guide contained in this thread. I have a large Zalman heatsinnk/fan on my board, very good airflow, and contact heatsinks on my memory. Should I be worried about anything else overheating?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chunky114* 
I'm having a problem with my P5N-E SLI whenever i press shutdown on windows the screen is still up and my mouse and keyboard are off, and I have to hold the button on my case down to shut off.

Is There any Fix for this?

I'm not sure that's a hardware issue. It could be your Windows OS. Did you reformat when you installed the new motherboard?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *derelict360* 
I'm thinking about overclocking my Q6600 to 3.0 using the guide contained in this thread. I have a large Zalman heatsinnk/fan on my board, very good airflow, and contact heatsinks on my memory. Should I be worried about anything else overheating?

Depending on what voltage you need for Northbridge, you may or may not need a new heatsink for it. Be wary of RAM heat too since you have 4 8500s.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stucknnola* 
Hello again loyal P5N-E SLI fans. I have two issues currently.

1. Often times my board doesn't post after I shut it down. I have to wait for 3-10 minutes of it being completely off, as in off switch on PSU, before it will post. She runs just fine once in windows. I'm not sure what to make of the not posting thing. I have not touched my OC settings at all and my temps are good.

2. The USB plug between the two PCI express x1 slots doesn't seem to work anymore. I have a flash card reader that stopped working. I swapped the front panel USB and the card reader plug locations on the MOBO. After the swap the front panel stoped working while the card reader works. Which leads me to believe that one of the usb "plugs" (must be a better term for those pins) is no longer functional. If that is the case is there a way to fix it or get it fixed?

If I'm completely off the mark please through me a bone.

thanks,

g

1. I experienced this before. My computer would test stable in Orthos for 10 hours but it would POST lets say... 75% of the time and be completly fine in Windows.. Check your overclock again. Go back to stock and see if it'll POST all the time. Also check your RAM too; something could be degrading.

2. It might be that the card reader is bad.. shorting out the "plugs" on the motherboard. You might want to see if you can get the board RMAed. Also, try using the USB bracket (which has 2 extra USB that came with the mobo) and see if the "plug" really is dead.


----------



## jbobb

I have a question for you guys here.

I had OC'd my e6420 to 3.0Ghz and it was running stable for months. Now all of the sudden, when I play games, they will freeze up anywhere from 5-30 minutes of playing and I have to reboot. I took off the OC and set the CPU to default speed and it seems to be working fine now.

Have any of you had your OC start to fail over time? I have my CPU voltage set fairly low, near default. (not at computer now, so cant remember off hand). Not sure if increasing the voltage will help out or not. If so, what would be a safe recommendation. RAM is also manually set at 5-5-5-15 ( I have tried 5-5-5-18 also).

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbobb*


I have a question for you guys here.

I had OC'd my e6420 to 3.0Ghz and it was running stable for months. Now all of the sudden, when I play games, they will freeze up anywhere from 5-30 minutes of playing and I have to reboot. I took off the OC and set the CPU to default speed and it seems to be working fine now.

Have any of you had your OC start to fail over time? I have my CPU voltage set fairly low, near default. (not at computer now, so cant remember off hand). Not sure if increasing the voltage will help out or not. If so, what would be a safe recommendation. RAM is also manually set at 5-5-5-15 ( I have tried 5-5-5-18 also).

Thanks for any help.


RAM should run at the default configuration. If you have to loosen it for it to run stably.. they're faulty.

I've had my 3.6 Ghz overclock fail on me. It was like that for a few months and it just started crashing. I can only run 3.5 Ghz now but I just keep it at 3.4 GHz.


----------



## udihow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *teabag*


bla bla


I think it's almost stable at 3ghz now, but i had to increase the vcore to almost 1,48v. Is that ok for a 24/7 clock? I read somewhere that the max recommended vcore for intel 65nm cpus was 1.55v.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbobb*


I have a question for you guys here.

I had OC'd my e6420 to 3.0Ghz and it was running stable for months. Now all of the sudden, when I play games, they will freeze up anywhere from 5-30 minutes of playing and I have to reboot. I took off the OC and set the CPU to default speed and it seems to be working fine now.

Have any of you had your OC start to fail over time? I have my CPU voltage set fairly low, near default. (not at computer now, so cant remember off hand). Not sure if increasing the voltage will help out or not. If so, what would be a safe recommendation. RAM is also manually set at 5-5-5-15 ( I have tried 5-5-5-18 also).

Thanks for any help.


you may need to raise the voltage a little...this has happened to me before.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


you may need to raise the voltage a little...this has happened to me before.


Yea.

Except in my case. I was at the maximum and didn't want to go over.
Forget to mention that.


----------



## deltaepsylon

OT Question: Would it be bad to connect a fan that needs 3 amps to start to the CPU_FAN Plug on this mobo?


----------



## jbobb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
you may need to raise the voltage a little...this has happened to me before.

Anyone know what a safe voltage would be to try out without being to high?

Also, if it apparently started to deteriorate beings I cannot OC with the same voltage as before, does this mean that I have greatly reduced the life of my CPU and should just leave it stock, or will it be ok if I try to up the voltage to get it to work at 3Ghz again?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


OT Question: Would it be bad to connect a fan that needs 3 amps to start to the CPU_FAN Plug on this mobo?


I don't see a problem with that. If it has a 3 pin then use it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbobb*


Anyone know what a safe voltage would be to try out without being to high?

Also, if it apparently started to deteriorate beings I cannot OC with the same voltage as before, does this mean that I have greatly reduced the life of my CPU and should just leave it stock, or will it be ok if I try to up the voltage to get it to work at 3Ghz again?


What is your current vcore? Just kick it up one notch. You're safe up until 1.5v.

You should be fine with one notch up.


----------



## UkGouki

i love my p5ne now im happy as hell with bfg too >

cpuz 9800gtx all installed now running benchmarks oh and Physx is fugging awesome

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=403607

 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Gpuz

http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/8ah3a/








im happy with that @ all stock settings


----------



## bvzxa

I just got the ASUS version of this board, but I haven't got ready to get all the things for it yet due to a move, so many pages, that's alot to read.

What's the best BIOS revision for this board.

I heard about RAm issues, so which way should I go.


----------



## UkGouki

im on the latest bios because for some reason my gpu wouldnt boot on 0608 lol

also got the hotfix for 3d mark 06 and gained nearly 1000 points YAY! still all stock cant wait to run an overclock now :-D >

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=7822325


----------



## jbobb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 

What is your current vcore? Just kick it up one notch. You're safe up until 1.5v.

You should be fine with one notch up.

My Vcore is at around the 1.25 mark and I also had the +100mv enabled.

Should I try bumping it up to 1.3v with the +100mv so it would be around 1.4v? Or should I just try going up a little instead of .5v at once?


----------



## bvzxa

I got the asus manual for the mobo...so it supports 1333Mhz

So with a bios revision will this 775 processor work?

Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 Conroe 3.0GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bvzxa* 
I got the asus manual for the mobo...so it supports 1333Mhz

So with a bios revision will this 775 processor work?

Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 Conroe 3.0GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail

Yes it works with bios 0608 & above


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbobb* 
My Vcore is at around the 1.25 mark and I also had the +100mv enabled.

Should I try bumping it up to 1.3v with the +100mv so it would be around 1.4v? Or should I just try going up a little instead of .5v at once?

Not that much..

Do the voltage that is one up from 1.3v along with the +100mv. Then stress test it and see if yuo still have problems gaming.
I personally don't use the 100mv.


----------



## mavizaman

hi p5n-e owners;
i will buy new cpu coming soon
i heard to o.c. is very hard for p5n-e with q6600
in that reason i went towards e8400
but at this time they said "windows is freezing at o.c. with e8400"
my bios v.:0901

now; can i o.c. with e8400 to 3.6ghz at stock voltage?
my rams:*dual mod 1.8v*
slot1:Micron Tech. *512 MB DDR2-533* DDR2 SDRAM (4.0-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3.0-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)
slot2:Kingston *512 MB DDR2-533* DDR2 SDRAM(5.0-4-4-12 @ 266mhz) (4.0-4-4-12 @ 266 MHz) (3.0-3-3-9 @ 200 MHz)

or do you recommend me another cpu for 3years?


----------



## askareem24

would anyone be willing to help me update my 650i bios so that it can support my e7200. for some reason it cant post the splash screen . i can pay to ship it to anyone whos willing to help and i'll also include the money to ship it back to me .







i dont know anyone who has an extra processor for me to run it on. haha gasp i highly doubt someone would actually do it for me. im from california


----------



## deltaepsylon

Wait, so you cant post b/c it doesn't support your processor, so you cant update? I think I could do this for you, but I live in Maryland... What bios version does your mobo have?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *askareem24* 
would anyone be willing to help me update my 650i bios so that it can support my e7200. for some reason it cant post the splash screen . i can pay to ship it to anyone whos willing to help and i'll also include the money to ship it back to me .







i dont know anyone who has an extra processor for me to run it on. haha gasp i highly doubt someone would actually do it for me. im from california

Where in California are you in?

Do you know what BIOS you're using? The new ones should come shipped with a updated BIOS to run 45nm CPUs...

Also, did you check to see if everything was connected correctly? It might not be a CPU problem.


----------



## gtz

Hi new to this forum/thread and spent hours reading this thread before I recieved my p5n-e sli and must say it was very helpful for me.

My question is if anybody has been succesful in running two video cards in non sli mode with the p5n-e sli. I have a 8800 GT and a spare 8600 GT. I want to use my spare 8600 GT as a physx card. With the new drivers that nvidia came out (177.83) this option is available. But I cannot do it since my 8600gt is not being recognized. This option works with my cousins motherboard (Gigabyte), I could use the 8600gt strictly as a phsyx card. But with the p5n-e sli I could only use my 8800gt. I don't want the 8800gt to do all the work since i get a reduction in framerates so I could see extra effects. Thanx.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Did you remember to flip the SLI selector that the motherboard has? (I believe its near the first PCIe slot). That may be necessary to get the mobo to recognize that there's a second card in there.


----------



## gtz

I feel ******ed, I completely overlooked the motherboard switch. I will try that as soon as possible. Thanx.


----------



## deltaepsylon

lol, no worries







Happens to everyone at some point. That selector should do the trick, it completely ignored my other card when I had forgotten to set that switch...


----------



## derelict360

just used this guide for a successful overclock to 3.0 ghz for my q6600.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

+rep and thank you diddler. this has made the difference between almost perfect and perfect performance for my next gen games.

what should i use to test for stability?


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *derelict360* 
just used this guide for a successful overclock to 3.0 ghz for my q6600.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

+rep and thank you diddler. this has made the difference between almost perfect and perfect performance for my next gen games.

what should i use to test for stability?

OCCT for at least 4 hours should be enough.


----------



## derelict360

Thanks Blizzie,

I'll run it on Saturday.


----------



## stucknnola

ASUS is going to RMA my board - which is good I guess, but I'm a little concerned about the turn around time.

Just to make sure I have this correct: RMA takes 10 business days to process then a board is shipped back to me. So I will be desktop free for 3 weeks.


----------



## Loxuz

I'm new to the forum so don't shoot me if I misplace this post.

My question / problem:

I was starting to overclocking my CPU and RAM, trying to get my FSB







RAM to 1:1, had gotten it to 10:13 with CPU at 2,7 and RAM at 850, when in realized my RAM was i single channel mode. So I changed the RAM to dual channel, I read some where that it is better. But now I'm no longer able to overclock. I tried putting it back to single channel, but problem is still there. Maby I broke an overclocking jumper or something?

I'm able to go into the BIOS and change clocks and what not, but when I restart, the system has some how reverted back to CPU: 2,13GHz and RAM: 800MHz. When I reenter BIOS my clock settings ar sett to auto, but my voltages are as I set them.

Has anyone had similar problems?


----------



## gtz

OK Guys I have been overclocking for a while now but I have never pushed a cpu before. Currently I have my e4400 at 3.2 @ 1.41 volts. According to intel since I have L2 stepping my limit is 1.5. I could get my e4400 to 3.33 with a vcore of 1.49 stable. My question is could my e4400 take it or will it die sooner even though my load temps are at 60 degrees.


----------



## bvzxa

A Few noob questions.......

1. are the PCI-Express x16 slots 1.0, 1.0a, 1.1, or doubtful 2.0. I ask this becuase some PCI-E x16 2.0 cards aren't compatable with 1.0, or 1,0a, I think this is mainly a problem with Nvidia cards.

2. Since I have the board, but don't know what bios has been flashed to the board, shouls I get a processor that was compliant with the 0202 bios, then flash it to use a processor with a 1333mhz FSB?

Or can I buy the processor I want to use, and just flash with the appropiate bios.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bvzxa* 
A Few noob questions.......

1. are the PCI-Express x16 slots 1.0, 1.0a, 1.1, or doubtful 2.0. I ask this becuase some PCI-E x16 2.0 cards aren't compatable with 1.0, or 1,0a, I think this is mainly a problem with Nvidia cards.

2. Since I have the board, but don't know what bios has been flashed to the board, shouls I get a processor that was compliant with the 0202 bios, then flash it to use a processor with a 1333mhz FSB?

Or can I buy the processor I want to use, and just flash with the appropiate bios.

its Pci-E 1.1 works fine with my 9800gtx+ O/C but i had to use bios 1101 what processor do you want to use? most duel cores work fine including 45nm from bios 0608 quads work mainly from 0608 also


----------



## bvzxa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


its Pci-E 1.1 works fine with my 9800gtx+ O/C but i had to use bios 1101 what processor do you want to use? most duel cores work fine including 45nm from bios 0608 quads work mainly from 0608 also











Well it's a Woldale 8400 I wanna use, but since I bought this board second hand for dirt cheap (not DOA), I wanna play it safe and use a processor from the lowest bios number in case the bios wasn't flashed to a higher number.

In other words, I don't wanna get all the stuff, put it together, and then the processor won't work, and then can't be flashed.

I was thinking of getting a Celeron D that is in the list working from the 202 bios for cheap as astarter, then flash, and then add the Wolfdale, but if I can avoid this step, I would just have to get the wolfdale.

And thanks, glad to know the lanes are PCI-E x16 1.1


----------



## deltaepsylon

I think that on the POST screen, if you hit TAB It'll say somewhere what bios version it has.


----------



## bvzxa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


I think that on the POST screen, if you hit TAB It'll say somewhere what bios version it has.


Yeah...kinda know that, but what I'm saying is, will I be able to flash the mobo with the wolfdale installed...even if the bios is lower than the one needed.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Wait, so your saying that the BIOS it has (202??) doesn't support the wolfdale you have, and you want to know if you can update the bios using the Wolfdale?
I don't know, if I were you I'd play it safe, although I did get a P5N-E with a BIOS that didn't support my q6850 but I was still able to use it (with some problems though)


----------



## Butterbum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Wait, so your saying that the BIOS it has (202??) doesn't support the wolfdale you have, and you want to know if you can update the bios using the Wolfdale?
I don't know, if I were you I'd play it safe, although I did get a P5N-E with a BIOS that didn't support my q6850 but I was still able to use it (with some problems though)

It will not support Wolfdale out of the box, because Wolfdale is a 45nm chip. Your quad is a 65nm chip, so it will be supported out of the box. You will not be able to flash it without a compatible CPU inside. My new P5N-E SLI shipped with bios 1001.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Ah, I see. Didn't know that 45nm's needed a bios flash to work at all.


----------



## africandavid

Hi all.
I have been studying this tread for quite some time now and have learned a lot. I have built a p5n-e sli based system some time ago, but recently upgraded CPU to Q6600.
Thats when the headaches begun. I first tried to flash to bios rev 608 from 1002 using diddler's guide to 3ghz(much rep to u diddler). got my boot cd burned, booted into dos successfully, then launched awdflash successfully, when asked "file to program" I entered: aw0608.bin, it prompted me to "save current bios" I selected "no", it prompted me to "start flash", I selected "y", message stated I cannot downgrade to earlier bios revision. ??? I the tried to flash from r:\\ by typing " r:\\awdflash0608.bin/f " as stated by diddler in his guide to 3ghz, no luck with that either. Am I missing something? As far as I could see no one else has had this issue.

Could it be a problem with rev. 1002. I have not had any luck with awdflash or using ez flash with usb pen drive.

Also I have not seen any posts re: new bios rev 1201.
After failing miserably trying to flash to 608 and many hours wasted I realized there was a new bios update, I flashed using asus update and rebooted. tried to OC with new bios, nothing worked till I tried 1400 FSB 3.15ghz. It loaded windows no problem. It is not 100% stable at the moment but have not had any time to play around with voltages much.

Anybody else had any luck with new bios?? Any advice on flashing to 608


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Hi all.
I have been studying this tread for quite some time now and have learned a lot. I have built a p5n-e sli based system some time ago, but recently upgraded CPU to Q6600.
Thats when the headaches begun. I first tried to flash to bios rev 608 from 1002 using diddler's guide to 3ghz(much rep to u diddler). got my boot cd burned, booted into dos successfully, then launched awdflash successfully, when asked "file to program" I entered: aw0608.bin, it prompted me to "save current bios" I selected "no", it prompted me to "start flash", I selected "y", message stated I cannot downgrade to earlier bios revision. ??? I the tried to flash from r: by typing " r:awdflash0608.bin/f " as stated by diddler in his guide to 3ghz, no luck with that either. Am I missing something? As far as I could see no one else has had this issue.

Could it be a problem with rev. 1002. I have not had any luck with awdflash or using ez flash with usb pen drive.

Also I have not seen any posts re: new bios rev 1201.
After failing miserably trying to flash to 608 and many hours wasted I realized there was a new bios update, I flashed using asus update and rebooted. tried to OC with new bios, nothing worked till I tried 1400 FSB 3.15ghz. It loaded windows no problem. It is not 100% stable at the moment but have not had any time to play around with voltages much.

Anybody else had any luck with new bios?? Any advice on flashing to 608


i just checked the support site and only found 1101 bios as teh latest ??

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...el=P5N-E%20SLI

but if it pushes thge q 6600 to where your at and its stable ill certainly give it a try im on 1101 due to my 9800gtx+







please let me know how it goes etc..


----------



## bvzxa

never hurts to have a floppy drive when flashing. I used to flash making boot CD's but it never worked right, and I had messed up a DVD drive that way. So I keep a floppy drive in all my custom builts unless the requestor does not want one.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


i just checked the support site and only found 1101 bios as teh latest ??

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...el=P5N-E%20SLI

but if it pushes thge q 6600 to where your at and its stable ill certainly give it a try im on 1101 due to my 9800gtx+







please let me know how it goes etc..


No UkGouki.
I know the asus sight sz that newest bios is 1101, 1201 was on there yesterday... U can see for yourself, I can send you the bios file... I have rev 1201, that's what I'm running right now and stable so far, hadn't had any time to run benchmarks yet but is running everything else I'm throwing at it at 3.15ghz.


----------



## africandavid

Here are my specs.


----------



## UkGouki

^^nice temps too im gonna hunt that bios file xD

ok i got the new bios and my POS board now wont post anything over 1100 fsb









http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=408840


----------



## deltaepsylon

So 'tis not worth upgrading the BIOS, in your opinion?


----------



## UkGouki

not on the q6600 then again my board is fooked anyway im gonna get a new board thats pci-e 2.0 capable and is good for quad overclocking


----------



## africandavid

UkGouki, did you have any luck with v.1202 ??, it's working great for me.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *africandavid* 
UkGouki, did you have any luck with v.1202 ??, it's working great for me.

no im still on 1201 but cant get a stable overclock at all what volts you using? etc... only way i can get it to post is on 1100fsb = 275mhz per multi of 9 or on stock:'(


----------



## Asce

Getting to 3GHz on this board is a miricle let alone getting over it.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


no im still on 1201 but cant get a stable overclock at all what volts you using? etc... only way i can get it to post is on 1100fsb = 275mhz per multi of 9 or on stock:'(


I'm at work now, so will name off the top off my head, can give you confirmed #'s this evening.

Do straight jump to 350*9 = 1400 FSB 
Ram "unlinked" I used stock 800mhz speeds for now. 
Change ram from "auto" to stock timings except command rate at "2T"
VDIMM at 2.1v
VCORE at 1.35v
NB at 1.39v

Good luck.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Getting to 3GHz on this board is a miricle let alone getting over it.

Meh, whatevz. Ive heard of lots of people saying that, but argue with my 334x9=*3.006 GHz*.
On a more serious note, that doesn't count b/c my proc is already 2.997 at stock, so


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Meh, whatevz. Ive heard of lots of people saying that, but argue with my 334x9=*3.006 GHz*.
On a more serious note, that doesn't count b/c my proc is already 2.997 at stock, so









man oc that baby!


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Meh, whatevz. Ive heard of lots of people saying that, but argue with my 334x9=*3.006 GHz*.
On a more serious note, that doesn't count b/c my proc is already 2.997 at stock, so










If I'm not mistaken, he meant 3Ghz with p5n-e and q6600.
Getting more than 3ghz with this board not hard at all, just not with a Q6600. 
Used to be next to impossible. 
I thought I had died and gone to heaven when I posted at 3.15ghz, not to mention loading vista without a hitch and stable since.


----------



## BallistaMan

Alright total newbie to overclocking here. I built my system (first one







) a little over a year ago with this board and a Q6600 (B3 unfortunately). I've been looking into OCing it for a while now and finally decided I had read up enough to try it. I've never been looking to hit the big 3.0, more around the 2.7-2.8 range.

Anyway right off the bat I bumped up the FSB to 300, which gave me a nice stable 2.7GHz with the voltage being 1.22500V. That voltage was what I had originally undervolted the CPU at stock to. Worked fine. Then I decided to be stupid and bump the voltage down one notch and at the same time bump the CPU to 2.8.

Long story short I couldn't even get the bios to load, much less fix it. So I got to clear the CMOS for my first time too.







In fact I got to do it several times, because it didn't really like going back to the old 2.7GHz/1.225V setting much either.

So my point is this: I'd be happy with a stable 2.7GHz, though 2.8GHz might be fun provided temps stay low enough. Right now it's at 2.7 (1.24375V) and under full Prime95 load is at 70, 70, 66, 66 (under a Zalman CNPS9500 too). Ambient is 85F. And yes I know those temps ain't pretty, but it tends to run quite a bit cooler when I'm not making it crunch (at 72F 38-low 40s idling). Anyway I feel that even this 2.7 is a bit unstable, as the bios crashed again on the first run through. Second boot though (which I'm typing this on) seems happy enough.

Is my voltage high enough to keep the CPU happy? I'm also suspicious of the NB feeling undervolted. Right now it's set to auto because I'm not really sure which of the few options it should be at. What should my CPU voltage/NB voltage be at to maintain a stable 2.7-2.8GHz? I'm happy to sacrifice a degree or two for a notch above the bare minimum.

Complete specs:
Q6600
P5N-E SLI (obviously







)
2x 1GB OCZ Gold 5300 (667MHz)
8800GTS 640MB

Oh, and had anyone here tried running an Asus Xonar D2X on this board? I'm RMAing one that seemed very finicky (as in, it took three boots to post and then BSOD'd shortly afterwards).


----------



## africandavid

Hey,

1st of all what bios are you running? I'm using bios rev. 1201
What about your memory?? Linked or not? Timings??
VDIMM at 2.1v
VCORE at 1.35v
NB at 1.39v


----------



## BallistaMan

Bios 0505

Memory is unlinked and still running at stock speeds. My impression was that I didn't really need to OC it unless my FSB went over its rated speed.

The timings have always been set to auto. I was planning on changing them once I got the CPU happy. CPU-Z is reporting 5-5-5-31. I believe stock is technically 5-5-5-15. RAM voltage is at 1.8v.

So shall I assume that 1.24V is a bit low? CPU-Z has never reported anything but 1.313V, but I imagine that the motherboard is changing the voltages just the same, seeing as the CPU does react to it.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BallistaMan* 
Bios 0505

Memory is unlinked and still running at stock speeds. My impression was that I didn't really need to OC it unless my FSB went over its rated speed.

The timings have always been set to auto. I was planning on changing them once I got the CPU happy. CPU-Z is reporting 5-5-5-31. I believe stock is technically 5-5-5-15. RAM voltage is at 1.8v.

So shall I assume that 1.24V is a bit low? CPU-Z has never reported anything but 1.313V, but I imagine that the motherboard is changing the voltages just the same, seeing as the CPU does react to it.

If you are trying to oc the Q6600 you should look into getting bios rev. 608 or rev. 1201. So far v. 608 has been tried and tested and is considered the standard by OC'ers for overclocking the Q6600 CPU on this mobo, however by some fluke the ASUS website had a new bios v. 1201 listed probably only for 1 day, I got lucky and was able to get a hold of this but it has since been removed for some unknown reason.

There is a way to get a hold of this file though, might want to try goolgle.
UkGoUki found it from another source. There hasn't been much word of anyone else having any luck with this bios. To soon to tell I guess.

Start by flashing your bios, try v.608 then try all your current settings. If you can get it to work at lower voltages then great, but I believe you would have to up you ram voltage to at least 2v-2.1v for stability. I found the Q6600 to be happy and stable at 1.3v+ in your bios.

Diddler put together a great guide to 3Ghz- check out the
"3ghz Q6600 OC on P5N-E SLi" thread.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

It is very informative and especially useful if you are running bios v.608.


----------



## UkGouki

i found the 1201 bios on asus forums via webserver ftp update you need to be an asus forum member to download it though!

i got 3.15ghz to boot & run 3dmark but wasnt orthos stable failed after 57 minutes on core 0 also my memory i had @ stock unlinked failed memtest @ 3.15ghz on cpu.

so im back on stock till i get either a new mobo or better cpu cooler i reccon it was heat causing my failures because when orthos failed and bsod my cpu was @ 68c! on core 0 all others was mid to high 50's :/


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
i found the 1201 bios on asus forums via webserver ftp update you need to be an asus forum member to download it though!

i got 3.15ghz to boot & run 3dmark but wasnt orthos stable failed after 57 minutes on core 0 also my memory i had @ stock unlinked failed memtest @ 3.15ghz on cpu.

so im back on stock till i get either a new mobo or better cpu cooler i reccon it was heat causing my failures because when orthos failed and bsod my cpu was @ 68c! on core 0 all others was mid to high 50's :/

I can't believe there is such a big difference between the Blue Orb and the Max Orb. I must say, the Max works a lot better on the Q6600 than on my old C2D E6300, I had that running at 3.15ghz too though, thats why.
To bad you didn't get it going, it's probably your heatSinc.


----------



## UkGouki

i reccon its the cooler gonna get a new one next monday the artic cooler extreme


----------



## BallistaMan

I've done a few tweaks, mainly upping the CPU voltage to 1.25-ish (load temps are a tad higher, idle temps aren't). I was also fooling around with the RAM but changing the settings from auto to 5-5-5-15 @ 2.013V kept it from fully loading the bios the first time and from getting into Windows the second. Not sure what's going on there.

With all of those settings back on auto the system seems stable enough. It was only slightly finicky before I upped the voltage to 1.25 so I think that should be pretty stable for 2.7GHz. I'm still pretty skittish about doing Prime95 though (been through...maybe 20 or 30 minutes of it), it puts my core temps back up to the 70C mark (and pushes the NB to 52C) and I'm not sure I want to give it 24 hours at that temp and load. Once upon a time on the stock cooler (and stock clocks) it hit 94C so I know it can take it, but I'm not sure I want to push it for *that long*. Maybe I'm just putting too little faith in it though.


----------



## africandavid

Nope, you're right, you can't do that unless you feel like the sweet smell of CPU toast. Zalman CNPS 9500, i thought this would do a better job than that.


----------



## BallistaMan

[Deleted]


----------



## Hijack!

Hi gang,

Hey, was just giong to stick a new enzotech on the SB, but looking at the thing, the IHS looks like it's just black plastic!? Is it just me? Is it actually metal? Does the IHS need removed first and if so, how did you do it?

I mean, I can just slap some AS5 on it and sqash the enzo right down, but it doesn't seem like the IHS is very good.

Thanks for any help!


----------



## UkGouki

well the cooler i wanted isnt going to be in stock in the uk until october i can get a zalman 9700NT for a bargain price brand spanking new still sealed etc but will it fit on the P5N-E ?? i know the 9500 fits fine but the 9700 is a lot bigger!


----------



## mcogan10

It should fit, although with that northbridge sink that close to the socket you might have a problem...god I love this motherboard. Hit 462 fsb on it no problem and I haven't pushed it further...PCI-E 2.0 BE DAMNED!


----------



## Derp

Hi everyone i have a few questions if anyone could help. i have recently been trying to mildly overclock my e6850 on this board and i wanted to make sure i wasnt doing anything REALLY stupid.

first question is about temp readings, HWM and coretemp read the cores 5c hotter then realtemp so which program to use for temps? also another annoying thing is what voltage to follow? what the bios reads and what i set it at in the bios are different and when i boot to vista speed fan shows yet another different voltage for the vcore.

on to my small overclock, the processer is once again a e6850 3.0ghz overclocked to 3.6ghz. i set the vcore at 1.425v as any lower would produce a blue screen while using a benchmark program under stress. seems pretty high for what i would call a small overclock of 20% i think?

my settings for ram timings are stock and is unlinked 800 on the ram and 1600 on the fsb with a x9 multiplier. all the voltages are auto except the vcore which is at 1.425.

for temperatures in a 28c room it idles at 38c and loads peak at 57c this is according to coretemp, 5c lower if you suggest real temp. does anything seem totally messed up? this is my first try at overclocking and i would like to know if im damaging anything. im sorry for the huge post and thank you for reading if you got this far, any help is greatly appreciated!


----------



## HT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Auld*


Hi everyone i have a few questions if anyone could help. i have recently been trying to mildly overclock my e6850 on this board and i wanted to make sure i wasnt doing anything REALLY stupid.

first question is about temp readings, HWM and coretemp read the cores 5c hotter then realtemp so which program to use for temps? also another annoying thing is what voltage to follow? what the bios reads and what i set it at in the bios are different and when i boot to vista speed fan shows yet another different voltage for the vcore.

on to my small overclock, the processer is once again a e6850 3.0ghz overclocked to 3.6ghz. i set the vcore at 1.425v as any lower would produce a blue screen while using a benchmark program under stress. seems pretty high for what i would call a small overclock of 20% i think?

my settings for ram timings are stock and is unlinked 800 on the ram and 1600 on the fsb with a x9 multiplier. all the voltages are auto except the vcore which is at 1.425.

for temperatures in a 28c room it idles at 38c and loads peak at 57c this is according to coretemp, 5c lower if you suggest real temp. does anything seem totally messed up? this is my first try at overclocking and i would like to know if im damaging anything. im sorry for the huge post and thank you for reading if you got this far, any help is greatly appreciated!


I think that coretemp is the program to use because they use intel newly pupliched data for the terminal junction.
57Â°C are not a problem with your cpu (intel recommends under 72Â°)
http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLA9U

1.425 is maybe a little high for that clock but intel says up to 1.5 is ok.
Voltage changes is probably because of volt-drop.


----------



## Monst3r

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mcogan10* 
It should fit, although with that northbridge sink that close to the socket you might have a problem...god I love this motherboard. Hit 462 fsb on it no problem and I haven't pushed it further...PCI-E 2.0 BE DAMNED!

650i? ive pushed 500fsb with my 680i.. nb heats up alot tho so need a aftermarket nb cooler..


----------



## Demented

Hey all!! I started reading this thread a little while ago...hoping to glean some info on whether I would ever be able to overclock higher than my current 3.0ghz. However, after skimming through 100 or so pages, I gave up, and figured I'd just add my name to the list of happy owners!

However, if anyone can help me with my question, I'd be ever so grateful. It's my sig rig, and when I purchased the final two gigs of ram for it, taking up all four slots, I learned that with this board I had to underclock my ram if I was using all four slots. That's my bottleneck ATM. I can't have my RAM any higher than 667mhz without BSOD, freezing, and randomly rebooting. I use Vista 64, so In want to use all of my RAM, but I'm thinking that if I go back to just 2 sticks, possibly 3, I'd be able to oc higher. I say this because I was able to get to 3.2-3.4ghz before with just 2 sticks of RAM.

What I am hoping is that someone has similar specs to mine, to see if maybe a BIOS revision helps me attain a higher OC, while still using all of my RAM.

Anyways, other than that, I am loving this board's ease of use in OC'ing. I was totally new to overclocking, and this site has helped me learn so much!!

I'M ADDICTED!!!!!


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Demented* 
Hey all!! I started reading this thread a little while ago...hoping to glean some info on whether I would ever be able to overclock higher than my current 3.0ghz. However, after skimming through 100 or so pages, I gave up, and figured I'd just add my name to the list of happy owners!

However, if anyone can help me with my question, I'd be ever so grateful. It's my sig rig, and when I purchased the final two gigs of ram for it, taking up all four slots, I learned that with this board I had to underclock my ram if I was using all four slots. That's my bottleneck ATM. I can't have my RAM any higher than 667mhz without BSOD, freezing, and randomly rebooting. I use Vista 64, so In want to use all of my RAM, but I'm thinking that if I go back to just 2 sticks, possibly 3, I'd be able to oc higher. I say this because I was able to get to 3.2-3.4ghz before with just 2 sticks of RAM.

What I am hoping is that someone has similar specs to mine, to see if maybe a BIOS revision helps me attain a higher OC, while still using all of my RAM.

Anyways, other than that, I am loving this board's ease of use in OC'ing. I was totally new to overclocking, and this site has helped me learn so much!!

I'M ADDICTED!!!!!









k is your ram cas 4 or 5?

what bios version you on?

if cas 4 you have to manually set the timings as follows this will only work for bios 0608 and above @800mhz!>

Memory Voltage2.1 V
CAS Latency (CL)4T
RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD)4T
RAS Precharge (tRP)4T
RAS Active Time (tRAS)12T
Command Rate (CR)2T

on cas 5 its
Voltage2.1 V
5t
5t
5t
18t
cr 2


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
k is your ram cas 4 or 5?

what bios version you on?

if cas 4 you have to manually set the timings as follows this will only work for bios 0608 and above @800mhz!>

Memory Voltage2.1 V
CAS Latency (CL)4T
RAS To CAS Delay (tRCD)4T
RAS Precharge (tRP)4T
RAS Active Time (tRAS)12T
Command Rate (CR)2T

on cas 5 its
Voltage2.1 V
5t
5t
5t
18t
cr 2

It's CAS 4, and I set the timings when I first got the board and only had two sticks of RAM. Now I gotta update to 0608 Bios, was using 0401. Thanks man, +rep to you!


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


It's CAS 4, and I set the timings when I first got the board and only had two sticks of RAM. Now I gotta update to 0608 Bios, was using 0401. Thanks man, +rep to you!


your welcome i have the same ram in my spare rig :-D good quality stuff keeps my E6400 @ 3.2ghz 1:1 fsb on this very board! all 4 slots


----------



## Hijack!

My previous question might have gotten lost as it was the last on a page. Does anyone know about the IHS on the Southbridge? It seems like it's plastic to me!? I don't think that would be a very good heatsink, so I'm probably wrong. To install an aftermarket SB cooler, do I need to remove the IHS or just mount the new HS (enzotech) on it with some AS5?

Thanks!


----------



## BallistaMan

I imagine that simply putting it on would be fine. It's just a bare chip sitting there, and it doesn't get all *that* hot as it is.


----------



## thawk6

after inputting these sticks of ram i changed the voltage to the required 2.1 volts. I also tried (following this forum and others) to change these option in the bios (in order to get my ram to 800MHZ):

FSB and memory config= unlinked

tcl=4
trcD=4
trp=4
tras=15
(since these were the latency times shown on the partucular memory specs)
CMD= 2 clock

however despite changing these settings according to the SIW application I use to show system information it said that my RAM was running at 400MHZ and not 800MHZ stated by OCZ that the ram could run at.

Please could you help in telling me what settings need to be changed in order to get the ram frequency up to 800MHZ

Thankyou

http://www.ebuyer.com/product/116755/


----------



## BallistaMan

You don't need to change anything. 800MHz is referring to it's effective speed, which is double the frequency. Thus 400MHz freq. -> 800MHz effective. This is normal. For instance, my 667MHz RAM runs at a 333 MHz freq.


----------



## thawk6

thankyou for your reply.

Just one other question:

what do u mean by its "effective speed". And are you saying that even though it says 400MHZ its really running at 800MHZ?


----------



## SacredChaos

DDR means Double Data rate. So the number is then doubled to get the "effective" speed. But if your memory is PC2-4400. its only running at 566MHz effectively.

EDIT: I see you had a misspelling. Yeah your memory is running at 800MHz effectively.


----------



## thawk6

So sorry man my ram is PC2-6400









Does that change things? or do i still leave the settings alone? in order to get 800MHZ?


----------



## Hijack!

DDR2 RAM operates at twice the actual FSB speed. If your base FSB is 400, then your DDR2 effective FSB is 800.

This is like Intel CPUs, but they're "quad pumped", having effective FSB bus speeds 4 times as fast as the base FSB.

Most system FSB speeds are reported in your BIOS at the CPU level, meaning for intel chips...4 times as fast as the real, base FSB. A Core 2 Duo e6700 running at a 1066 FSB is really running at a base 266Mhz FSB. That chip has a base 10 x multiplier. 10 X 266 Mhz = the 2.66 Ghz that you normally associate a CPU running at.

Interestingly enough, unless you have your BIOS set to run an automatic, or a manually set CPU/Memory divider, your Memory is only running at 533Mhz in that example. So if you have 800 Mhz memory, you're actually underclocking it without a divider.

In your case, if you're running a true 400 Mhz base FSB, then you've got a pretty decent CPU setup, since most have a minimum multiplier of 8. You're running at least a 3.6Ghz CPU speed.


----------



## SacredChaos

I fixed my post.


----------



## thawk6

kk thanx for your help Sacred chaos and Hijack

Btw i'm only running a 2.4Ghz intel quad core Q6600 (not a 3.6GHZ processor)


----------



## SacredChaos

Your welcome.


----------



## HT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thawk6*


So sorry man my ram is PC2-6400









Does that change things? or do i still leave the settings alone? in order to get 800MHZ?


PC2- 6400 is built for 800mhz (ddr) (400mhz FSB)

if you have 2 or 4GB on a singel stick you may need to kick up the voltage, read on the manufactures webpages or luck att the settings for epp in CPU-Z


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hijack!*


My previous question might have gotten lost as it was the last on a page. Does anyone know about the IHS on the Southbridge? It seems like it's plastic to me!? I don't think that would be a very good heatsink, so I'm probably wrong. To install an aftermarket SB cooler, do I need to remove the IHS or just mount the new HS (enzotech) on it with some AS5?

Thanks!


nope just mount whatever it is directly on it. Personally I would use a nonconductive thermal paste like OCZ freezie or Tuniq TX-2 (both are better than as5)


----------



## SacredChaos

Nope it doesnt change a thing.


----------



## superk

Hey, I was just wondering, does this seem like a dead board?

I tried
* Two CPUs
 * 3 Different Ram Sticks
 * Two Power Supplies
 * 3 Video Cards
 * Reseating
 * Cleaning Contacts
 * Out of case install (no bad grounds/shorts)
 * Clear cmos
 * Remove CMOS battery/replace
 * POST Diagnostic PCI Card
 * Reseating/Flipping Single/SLI Connector card

NOTHING can get it to POST. Post card reads FF (system booting). Black screen, no beeps.

Board just arrived and wont post. Seller claims it to be a working pull.. no _obvious_ damage from shipping...


----------



## HT3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *superk* 
Hey, I was just wondering, does this seem like a dead board?

I tried

* Two CPUs
* 3 Different Ram Sticks
* Two Power Supplies
* 3 Video Cards
* Reseating
* Cleaning Contacts
* Out of case install (no bad grounds/shorts)
* Clear cmos
* Remove CMOS battery/replace
* POST Diagnostic PCI Card
* Reseating/Flipping Single/SLI Connector card

NOTHING can get it to POST. Post card reads FF (system booting). Black screen, no beeps.

Board just arrived and wont post. Seller claims it to be a working pull.. no _obvious_ damage from shipping...

After that list i think the board i bad , yes

It's sound like a video problem
have you tried a different screen? ;P

hope you have remberd the ATX 12v connector.


----------



## groogster

Hi i need help with you guys, because i have a problem since today.

Let me show you my sistem first:

E8400
P5N-E SLI (Bios 1101)
Ram 2 X 2Gb Exceleram PC6400 5-5-5-15-23

Untill yesterday i was able to OC easily my CPU to 3.6 Ghz with Vcore 1.225 with 1 x 1Gb Kingston Value Ram PC5300 (667Mhz) but since the moment that iÂ´ve installed the Exceleram (today) i cannot OC anymore, i go to bios, select FSB 400, select unlinked and save and after the restart the bios put again the FSB to stock settings, i donÂ´t now what to do anymore but itÂ´s obvious that is related with my new ram. What can i do?

ThankÂ´s

groogster


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *groogster* 
Hi i need help with you guys, because i have a problem since today.

Let me show you my sistem first:

E8400
P5N-E SLI (Bios 1101)
Ram 2 X 2Gb Exceleram PC6400 5-5-5-15-23

Untill yesterday i was able to OC easily my CPU to 3.6 Ghz with Vcore 1.225 with 1 x 1Gb Kingston Value Ram PC5300 (667Mhz) but since the moment that iÂ´ve installed the Exceleram (today) i cannot OC anymore, i go to bios, select FSB 400, select unlinked and save and after the restart the bios put again the FSB to stock settings, i donÂ´t now what to do anymore but itÂ´s obvious that is related with my new ram. What can i do?

ThankÂ´s

groogster

make sure you manually enter your timings for the new ram and set the fsb for the ram also. Run it at all stock and make sure it's stable...run a few passes of memtest to make sure. If it isn't stable, either the ram is bad or the board doesn't like this particular ram.

If it is stable, now that everything is set manually, it should oc fine again.


----------



## Demented

So I recently updated my bios from 0401 to 0608 to fix issues with having to underclock my RAM from 800Mhz to 667Mhz. It also allowed me to OC my CPU just a tad more. I was able to get to 3.00Ghz with the RAM at 667Mhz, and now I can get to a whopping 3.15Ghz. Problem is, I want to go higher!!!









My ultimate goal would be to get to 3.40Ghz, but I'll settle for 3.20Ghz. I know that 3.20Ghz isn't much more than what I have now, which is why it is all the more frustrating not to be able to get it!

I've tried increasing my CPU volts to 1.4, lowering my multiplier and using a higher FSB, and I can't get it to fully boot. It will go as far as loading into windows, but then it freezes. My NB voltage is set to auto, cuz I'm not sure how high I can push it, since I've never replaced the stock heatsink on it. I'm also not sure how high I can push my CPU volts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and +rep worthy!!

Thanks!


----------



## groogster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
make sure you manually enter your timings for the new ram and set the fsb for the ram also. Run it at all stock and make sure it's stable...run a few passes of memtest to make sure. If it isn't stable, either the ram is bad or the board doesn't like this particular ram.

If it is stable, now that everything is set manually, it should oc fine again.


Done it with a clear Cmos









then as you said i manually entered timings and FSB for the ram and now everything is smooth running prime95 till now with no erros.

ThankÂ´s for your help

Cheers

groogster


----------



## derelict360

anyone know if there is such a thing that you can put on the outside of your case, over where the processor is that would work as supplementary cooling?


----------



## Hijack!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *derelict360* 
anyone know if there is such a thing that you can put on the outside of your case, over where the processor is that would work as supplementary cooling?

Not sure if I understand your question. You want something outside your case that cools the CPU? Or do you want something outside the case, about where the CPU sits, that would add cooling to the whole computer?

If the first, then you can build an external liquid cooling solution, route the tubes in through the back of your case to a waterblock that mounts on your CPU. However, if you do this, do not, repeat DO NOT buy one of those lame POS pre-built water cooling kits. They absolutely suck...all of them. At least buy a combo kit from Peta's tech shop or something like that that uses quality components.

If the later, you could always just cut another hole in your case and mount another fan?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *derelict360*


anyone know if there is such a thing that you can put on the outside of your case, over where the processor is that would work as supplementary cooling?


yeh as mentioned before go for watercooling...exepensive but worth it

If you want just a little boost, ensure you have good airflow through the case. Perhaps better case fans would be enough for you.


----------



## HT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *groogster*


Hi i need help with you guys, because i have a problem since today.

Let me show you my sistem first:

E8400
P5N-E SLI (Bios 1101)
Ram 2 X 2Gb Exceleram PC6400 5-5-5-15-23

Untill yesterday i was able to OC easily my CPU to 3.6 Ghz with Vcore 1.225 with 1 x 1Gb Kingston Value Ram PC5300 (667Mhz) but since the moment that iÂ´ve installed the Exceleram (today) i cannot OC anymore, i go to bios, select FSB 400, select unlinked and save and after the restart the bios put again the FSB to stock settings, i donÂ´t now what to do anymore but itÂ´s obvious that is related with my new ram. What can i do?

ThankÂ´s

groogster


do you have the cl4 or cl5 version of excelram?

cl4 needs higher voltage
http://www.exceleram.com/CMS/index.p...-kit-cl4-hs,32


----------



## derelict360

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hijack!*


Not sure if I understand your question. You want something outside your case that cools the CPU?



yeah, outside the case. the motherboard sits on the plate and the plate is on the inside wall of the case. i had to turn off my overclock

i can feel the heat on the outside of my case, oposite of my cpu. if i could place an icepack on the outside of my case to draw some of the heat i would.

something like this would be cheap and i bet good money it would provide a metric ***ton of cooling for my rig.


----------



## BallistaMan

What's the normal stable voltage for a Q6600 on this board on 2.7GHz, or heck, even 2.4? I'm not going to bother trying to hit 2.8 anymore, I can't get through the bios, even on 0608 with a 1244 FSB.

I was originally running the quad at stock speeds at 1.225, which also worked fine for 2.7GHz even under several hours of P95. But it still has trouble booting, even at higher voltages like 1.25+ or even just plain old Auto. If I just hit the reset button on the case when the bios dies it boots and runs like a charm, but I suspect I shouldn't have to do that. Though when it's at 2.8GHz the only way to get a boot is to pull the battery - reset won't do anything.

The OS seems to have developed some quirks in the past few months too. Namely it likes crashing when I view folders with images in one particular directory only. Of course this is the directory I use for work (game/web development), so it makes things difficult. I suspect this is because of the undervolt (which has been going for a few months), can anyone confirm or deny this as a potential cause? I'm also suspicious of some bad defrags - it's always been unable to defrag just a few files each time. My current plan is just to put all the clocks back at stock, duplicate the whole drive, wipe, reinstall, etc. Should I?


----------



## HT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *derelict360*


yeah, outside the case. the motherboard sits on the plate and the plate is on the inside wall of the case. i had to turn off my overclock

i can feel the heat on the outside of my case, oposite of my cpu. if i could place an icepack on the outside of my case to draw some of the heat i would.

something like this would be cheap and i bet good money it would provide a metric ***ton of cooling for my rig.


maybe a peltier element?


----------



## Hijack!

Hmm, unless this is something totally new, your CPU sits on your Motherboard. That in turn is on stand-offs from a tray. The tray is typically not even the outerwall of the case.

As such, it's very odd that you're feeling anything on the outside of your case caused directly by the CPU. Heated by ambient case air maybe, but there is absolutely ZERO that you would attach to a case wall that would really do much of anything at all.

You just need better CPU cooling.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

My computer is acting funny. I installed my new 280GTX on Thursday and played Crysis for a couple of hours and used the computer and had no problems. But now my computer will not post if I OC anything in the BIOS. Even when I set my Corsair Memory to 4-4-4-12 timing which is what it is spec for it will still not post. I get a

BIOS ROM checksum error
Keyboard error or no keyboard present

Then it tries to boot from the CD drive. I put the motherboard disc in and I guess it reinstalled the BIOS? I'm completely stump on what could be causing this to happen. Any ideas?


----------



## Elemental

Can anyone suggest why when I enable SLi on this board, with two 9800GTX cards as seen in my sig, it crashes in games, saying that the display driver stopped responding?


----------



## ihasflavor

I'm planning on buying the Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme to use with this board. Will I have any issues installing it? If so what else would you guys recommend?


----------



## groogster

I have a sound problem with my Mobo, since last night i cannot ear anymore stereo from the green analog connection in the back panel but only in mono.

The sound only come out from the left speaker! IÂ´ve already upgraded the drivers from realtek and the problem remains.

The only option that i have is to plug the jack to the Blue analog connection in the back panel and configure the sound in the realtek audio manager so that i can ear stereo sound. I have to configure the sound this way everytime i restart my PC wich is annoying!

Can anyone help me? Perhaps the integrated sound of the mobo is malfunctioning, i donÂ´t know!

Cheers

groogster


----------



## TL0000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ihasflavor*


I'm planning on buying the Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme to use with this board. Will I have any issues installing it? If so what else would you guys recommend?


No problem using thermalright ultra 120 extreme> I am using 2 fans on mine an plenty of room


----------



## TL0000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hijack!*


My previous question might have gotten lost as it was the last on a page. Does anyone know about the IHS on the Southbridge? It seems like it's plastic to me!? I don't think that would be a very good heatsink, so I'm probably wrong. To install an aftermarket SB cooler, do I need to remove the IHS or just mount the new HS (enzotech) on it with some AS5?

Thanks!


On the south bridge need a heat sink with same hole pattern (2 holes) to use push pins or double sides thermal tape. If you are running sli the fan on top of heat sink needs to be offset for graphic card clearance. But the 40 fan is not going to do much to bring down temps. Need to back up with 120 fan blowing on SB.
No


----------



## TL0000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Demented*


So I recently updated my bios from 0401 to 0608 to fix issues with having to underclock my RAM from 800Mhz to 667Mhz. It also allowed me to OC my CPU just a tad more. I was able to get to 3.00Ghz with the RAM at 667Mhz, and now I can get to a whopping 3.15Ghz. Problem is, I want to go higher!!!









My ultimate goal would be to get to 3.40Ghz, but I'll settle for 3.20Ghz. I know that 3.20Ghz isn't much more than what I have now, which is why it is all the more frustrating not to be able to get it!

I've tried increasing my CPU volts to 1.4, lowering my multiplier and using a higher FSB, and I can't get it to fully boot. It will go as far as loading into windows, but then it freezes. My NB voltage is set to auto, cuz I'm not sure how high I can push it, since I've never replaced the stock heat sink on it. I'm also not sure how high I can push my CPU volts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and +rep worthy!!

Thanks!


Why are you using such a old bios 1201 is out and is fine as is 1101.
If you are running linked or auto setting must set up bios manually.
By lowering memory speed are not gaining anything.
Set up bios manual / unlinked and enter voltage and timings for memory.
Set memory voltage at highest setting and still be in specs and cpu voltage at highest setting and still be in specs.
You said raised voltage on cpu to 1.4 that is low can go to 1.5.
This is how set vcore voltage Set v core offset to + 100 and set vcore at 1.4 v tat is total voltage (cpu) of 1.5 v and that is what a 6600 is.
Enter timings manually also. If you need timings and voltage for memory run memory part number at memory manufacture web site.
If you max cpu voltage is 1.36250 then change vcore voltage.
Do not know where got you were running a e 6600, previous post maybe ???
I got cpu off validation so the 1.5v figure is correct for you cpu


----------



## Kopi

While I've been involved with this thread pretty much since day 1, I have some Q's for you!

I'm gonna replace the northbridge heatsink with an HR-05 SLI..but it seems to be on there pretty solid. What have you guys done to get it off? Some orthos?


----------



## TL0000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


While I've been involved with this thread pretty much since day 1, I have some Q's for you!

I'm gonna replace the northbridge heatsink with an HR-05 SLI..but it seems to be on there pretty solid. What have you guys done to get it off? Some orthos?


There is no reason to replace the NB heat sink with a new one unless want to spend some money. All need is 42 cfm 120 fan blowing on it and temps will be so low that can put finger on bottom on NB heat sink and leave it there.
The NB heat sink is on with push pins 2 black pins on NB heat sink. To remove need to get at bottom of MB and squeeze togeather. If you do replace do not get thermal compound on MB or will short out, use Vaseline or something to protect from shorting. or use not conducting thermal compound.


----------



## TL0000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HT3*


I think that coretemp is the program to use because they use intel newly pupliched data for the terminal junction.
57Â°C are not a problem with your cpu (intel recommends under 72Â°)
http://processorfinder.intel.com/det...px?sSpec=SLA9U

1.425 is maybe a little high for that clock but intel says up to 1.5 is ok.
Voltage changes is probably because of volt-drop.



Set v core offset at + 100 and vcore at 1.4 v and everything is ok. That is equal to 1.5v vcore voltage


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
While I've been involved with this thread pretty much since day 1, I have some Q's for you!

I'm gonna replace the northbridge heatsink with an HR-05 SLI..but it seems to be on there pretty solid. What have you guys done to get it off? Some orthos?

You have to pinch the plastic connectors on the bottom of the motherboard to remove the stock northbridge heatsink. Unfortunately this means removing the mobo from the case.

I've used the Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II Chip Cooler CL-C0034 on my old P5N-E northbridge and my new XFX 680i and it does a great job.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TL0000* 
Why are you using such a old bios 1201 is out and is fine as is 1101.
If you are running linked or auto setting must set up bios manually.
By lowering memory speed are not gaining anything.
Set up bios manual / unlinked and enter voltage and timings for memory.
Set memory voltage at highest setting and still be in specs and cpu voltage at highest setting and still be in specs.
You said raised voltage on cpu to 1.4 that is low can go to 1.5.
This is how set vcore voltage Set v core offset to + 100 and set vcore at 1.4 v tat is total voltage (cpu) of 1.5 v and that is what a 6600 is.
Enter timings manually also. If you need timings and voltage for memory run memory part number at memory manufacture web site.
If you max cpu voltage is 1.36250 then change vcore voltage.
Do not know where got you were running a e 6600, previous post maybe ???
I got cpu off validation so the 1.5v figure is correct for you cpu

As far as the BIOS version, I was using 0401 with no issues until I upgraded to another 2 gigs of RAM. Another poster suggested I update to 0608, so I did. If there is definitive proof that I can eek a little more juice out of my CPU by updating my BIOS to a later version, then I'm there. Otherwise, I'll stick to 0608, which has at least allowed me to use my RAM at proper speed.

I have my RAM timings set manually at 4-4-4-12 and 2T, as well as 2.1 volts. Also, I'm set to unlinked, not auto, so no issues there as well.

Some of your reply was a little hard to understand due to punctuation and such, but I think I got the gist.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
While I've been involved with this thread pretty much since day 1, I have some Q's for you!

I'm gonna replace the northbridge heatsink with an HR-05 SLI..but it seems to be on there pretty solid. What have you guys done to get it off? Some orthos?

heat it up with a blowdryer, then gently twist from side to side.


----------



## jmck

hi all,
i'm pretty new to overclocking so please bear with me. i bought the p5n-e sli motherboard and a e6320 a few months ago with a view to overclock them seeing as the reviews for both were really good, so far i 've run it all at the auto settings in the bios to test the system as the cpu and motherboard were bought from ebay. as everything has been stable i now want to try overclocking it.

today i tried a quick overclock and test,

current system spec
E6320 @ 2.8Ghz, vcore 1.32, 1600Mhz FSB
zerotherm cf900 HSF, fan throttles between 825-942rpm dep on temp
2Gb geil black dragon pc8500 at 800Mhz 5,5,5,15, 2t, 2.1v
saphire hd 4850, stock speeds
asus p5n-e sli,
i've disabled all the cpu features, ie, c1e,speedstep and set the cpu voltage to 1.32v but left the NB voltage set to auto, i've manually configure the memory timings and voltage.

i previously had the vcore set to 1.35v, but when i was running prime95 the temps core temp was showing were what i think were high, 51'c for both cores, asus probe showed 47'c for the cpu and 37'c for the NB.

so i decided to drop the vcore to 1.32v, and it seems to work the temps now sit around 48'c on both cores, asus probe shows cpu at 42'c and NB 34'c.

i've run 3dmark03,05,06 and prime95 and it has'nt crashed
the only thing i noticed that bothers me is the vcore in asus probe sits around 1.33 when idle but drops to 1.26v under load, i know it did the same at vcore 1.35v it dropped to 1.3 under load. i'm not sure about this.

can anyone tell me what i've done so far is right or have i srewed it up, also what else i can do to get it going faster.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jmck*


hi all, 
i'm pretty new to overclocking so please bear with me. i bought the p5n-e sli motherboard and a e6320 a few months ago with a view to overclock them seeing as the reviews for both were really good, so far i 've run it all at the auto settings in the bios to test the system as the cpu and motherboard were bought from ebay. as everything has been stable i now want to try overclocking it.

today i tried a quick overclock and test,

current system spec
E6320 @ 2.8Ghz, vcore 1.32, 1600Mhz FSB 
zerotherm cf900 HSF, fan throttles between 825-942rpm dep on temp
2Gb geil black dragon pc8500 at 800Mhz 5,5,5,15, 2t, 2.1v 
saphire hd 4850, stock speeds
asus p5n-e sli, 
i've disabled all the cpu features, ie, c1e,speedstep and set the cpu voltage to 1.32v but left the NB voltage set to auto, i've manually configure the memory timings and voltage.

i previously had the vcore set to 1.35v, but when i was running prime95 the temps core temp was showing were what i think were high, 51'c for both cores, asus probe showed 47'c for the cpu and 37'c for the NB.

so i decided to drop the vcore to 1.32v, and it seems to work the temps now sit around 48'c on both cores, asus probe shows cpu at 42'c and NB 34'c.

i've run 3dmark03,05,06 and prime95 and it has'nt crashed
the only thing i noticed that bothers me is the vcore in asus probe sits around 1.33 when idle but drops to 1.26v under load, i know it did the same at vcore 1.35v it dropped to 1.3 under load. i'm not sure about this.

can anyone tell me what i've done so far is right or have i srewed it up, also what else i can do to get it going faster.


Sounds good. I would unlink the fsb and set the memory to it's full 1066mhz.

When I was running an e6320 on this mobo, 2.8ghz was my perfect oc. Anything higher required a lot of voltage for me, and was hard to keep stable without extra northbridge cooling.

Temps are fine; you should only start worrying if they hit the upper 50's and hit 60.


----------



## jmck

Thanks for the reply Gauvenator,

i'll try setting the ram at 1066Mhz, i had tried setting it to that just after i bought the board but it just crashed 10mins after booting into windows.

i'll give it another go, just in case it was the settings they were running at.

i've got a 92mm fan pointed at the NB as when i first got the motherboard the NB temps were running at 45'c. until i can find something to replace the existing heatsink.

can you tell me if i can re-enable the processors advanced feature in the bios now, ie, c1e, speedstep, execute disablebit, or should i leave them disabled.


----------



## Pr0Chris

thread starter may want to add this: 









volt pencil mod!


----------



## jmck

ok i tried setting the memory at 1066Mhz, but the system refused to boot.
so instead i've set it back to linked and sync, then upped the FSB to 430Mhz and set the vcore to 1.324v, the ram at 2.178v and the NB at 1.204v.

surprisingly the temps in core temp when idle hover just under 30'c which is lower than at stock settings.

the only thing thats looks dodgy now is the +3.3v occasionally drops to 0.6v at idle for a second.

i've still to run prime and 3dmark, but i'd prefer not to until i find out what happening to the +3.3v rail.

does anyone have an idea of the possible cause.

now the +5v rail is jumping to +6v occasionally.


----------



## Asce

This board will only take RAM upto 1000Mhz maximum.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jmck*


Thanks for the reply Gauvenator,

i'll try setting the ram at 1066Mhz, i had tried setting it to that just after i bought the board but it just crashed 10mins after booting into windows.

i'll give it another go, just in case it was the settings they were running at.

i've got a 92mm fan pointed at the NB as when i first got the motherboard the NB temps were running at 45'c. until i can find something to replace the existing heatsink.

can you tell me if i can re-enable the processors advanced feature in the bios now, ie, c1e, speedstep, execute disablebit, or should i leave them disabled.


Since you are oc'ing it is advised you leave c1e and speedstep off. They should be in one of the menus in the Advanced tab iirc, along with information about what speed your proc is running.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


This board will only take RAM upto 1000Mhz maximum.


o i forgot about that...


----------



## jmck

ok i've set the ram at 1000Mhz in the bios, but it's running at 992Mhz.
the processor is set to 430Mhz with c1e and speedstep enabled, i set the NB voltage to auto and that seems to have sorted the +3.3v & +5v drops i was seeing in asus probe

i did notice the +3.3v drop to 0.6v after i set the ram to 1000Mhz but it only happened 1 time since then the voltages have been stable for the past 2 hours, except the vcore & +12v which vary between 1.33v- 1.28v & 12.22v-12.16v.
i assume this is ok.?

with speedstep enable the processor drops to 2.57Ghz by dropping the multiplier to six, the vcore stays the same. i'm assuming this is because i have set to 1.32v in the bios and not set to auto. ?

i've run prime95 for 45mins with no failures, and 3dmark 05,06 again no failures
3dmark scores
3dmark05 16882
3dmark06 11369

Gauvenator, can you explain the reason why c1e and speedstep should be disabled as i dont seem to be having any problems with it enabled the processor throttles up and down as needed, the way it's supposed to.

again thanks for the help


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jmck* 
ok i've set the ram at 1000Mhz in the bios, but it's running at 992Mhz.
the processor is set to 430Mhz with c1e and speedstep enabled, i set the NB voltage to auto and that seems to have sorted the +3.3v & +5v drops i was seeing in asus probe

i did notice the +3.3v drop to 0.6v after i set the ram to 1000Mhz but it only happened 1 time since then the voltages have been stable for the past 2 hours, except the vcore & +12v which vary between 1.33v- 1.28v & 12.22v-12.16v.
i assume this is ok.?

with speedstep enable the processor drops to 2.57Ghz by dropping the multiplier to six, the vcore stays the same. i'm assuming this is because i have set to 1.32v in the bios and not set to auto. ?

i've run prime95 for 45mins with no failures, and 3dmark 05,06 again no failures
3dmark scores
3dmark05 16882
3dmark06 11369

Gauvenator, can you explain the reason why c1e and speedstep should be disabled as i dont seem to be having any problems with it enabled the processor throttles up and down as needed, the way it's supposed to.

again thanks for the help

the worry is that c1e will throttle the voltage too much and cause a crash...plus you have to have the voltage on auto, because the board will overvolt which you don't want. I don't think eist has any value without c1e..the voltage is what reduces power and heat; eist just throttles the speed.


----------



## jmck

so essentially i'm not gaining anything by having it enabled as all it's doing is dropping the speed, but not dropping the voltage of the processor. ?









does it also lower the NB voltage too, as i had read it only lowered the cpu voltage and speed.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jmck* 
so essentially i'm not gaining anything by having it enabled as all it's doing is dropping the speed, but not dropping the voltage of the processor. ?









correct; dropping the speed doesn't affect temps anywhere near as much as voltage


----------



## Rammsnack

_*hey im looking for a gaming motherboard 
right now im looking at ASUS boards
any favs*_


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rammsnack*


_*hey im looking for a gaming motherboard 
right now im looking at ASUS boards
any favs*_


Maximus or rampage for the ROG baords.


----------



## un4given-goth

Just got this board today with an E8200, running 3GB 667 Ram. All running Stock.



Also i replaced the stock cooler with an AC Freezer Pro 9.

Coretemp has been reading about 40 all the time, but Asus probe read 30.

Under Orthos testing Asus Probe eventually reached 40 and has been sitting there happily. Core temp is reading 50. Which is more reliable and even tho the effectiveness of the cooler should improve in after first 200 hours are these temps not a lil high for stock?

best regards

baz
admin[At]Barrygoodman[dot]co[dot]uk


----------



## derelict360

i just switched up to BIOS 1101 and my clock settings wouldnt save. i tried it a bunch of times. then i downloaded 1201, flased my BIOS to that, and i still can't get my settings to save. any help here?


----------



## BarryCarey

Hello Everyone,

My name is Matthew, I'm a little new to building systems but I can assure you I learn very quickly.

I just ordered the parts for my new system last night, they are as follows:

Motherboard - Asus P5N-E SLI
CPU - Intel Duo E8400 3.0 GHz
RAM - 4x2048 OCZ SLI-Ready DC PC6400
Video - XFX GeForce 8600 GT 1gb x 2

Thats not all but those are the main highlights.

My main question is about the motherboard and the RAM.

Forgive me if this has already been asked, but with 600+ pages it is a little hard to read them all.

After doing more reading last night I found, much to my dismay, that there are some issues running that much ram with the board. From what I saw it is not impossible it just takes some work. I plan on running this system as hard as possible.

Again I'm pretty new to all of this but I can assure you I can figure it out no problem with a little guidance. If anyone has experience with running they much/type of ram with this board please let me know.

Any help at all would be fantastic.

If anyone would be willing to give me some 1 on 1 coaching threw it I can threw you some money, other than that any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Matthew


----------



## mcogan10

we don't take money here, we take rep









Well, if your rig ends up working with that much memory, great. If not, come back when you need some real help! I have the same board, and its amazing...I've hit 460+ fsb on it no problem.


----------



## un4given-goth

Having an issue. Did a new xp install. however, when i shut down it it gets to the point where the monitor goes on stand by then holds. It never shuts down.
i have to turn off psu

puzzles me =/


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un4given-goth*


Having an issue. Did a new xp install. however, when i shut down it it gets to the point where the monitor goes on stand by then holds. It never shuts down.
i have to turn off psu

puzzles me =/


used to happen to me every now and then with the p5n-e sli. Does it just freeze and the mouse doesn't move?


----------



## un4given-goth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


used to happen to me every now and then with the p5n-e sli. Does it just freeze and the mouse doesn't move?


no what it does is it shuts down, when it should power off. nothing. Screen goes black but nothing powers down.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *un4given-goth*


no what it does is it shuts down, when it should power off. nothing. Screen goes black but nothing powers down.


yah that's what i meant. Like it will be displaying the shutdown screen, and it will freeze instead of shutting off completely?


----------



## un4given-goth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


yah that's what i meant. Like it will be displaying the shutdown screen, and it will freeze instead of shutting off completely?










sorted it. 24 pin wasnt in right. strange,

just checking temps now 35*normal. 40* orthos load

views?


----------



## nathris

Ok a question:

I hate the 650i, but I want a new processor, and I won't have enough for both an e5200 and a decent P35/45 motherboard. I've be running my NB at 1.38V and it gets hot enough to fry an egg. I think its whats keeping me from running at over 266FSB. I don't want to get an e5200 and then find out that I won't even be able to hit 3GHz with it because of the crappy motherboard, so if I got a better northbridge HS, and maybe a fan for the SB, would it make a difference?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


Ok a question:

I hate the 650i, but I want a new processor, and I won't have enough for both an e5200 and a decent P35/45 motherboard. I've be running my NB at 1.38V and it gets hot enough to fry an egg. I think its whats keeping me from running at over 266FSB. I don't want to get an e5200 and then find out that I won't even be able to hit 3GHz with it because of the crappy motherboard, so if I got a better northbridge HS, and maybe a fan for the SB, would it make a difference?


It would make a difference. The Thermalright HR-05 SLi fits on the board and you can have a fan attached to it as well.


----------



## un4given-goth

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nathris* 
Ok a question:

I hate the 650i, but I want a new processor, and I won't have enough for both an e5200 and a decent P35/45 motherboard. I've be running my NB at 1.38V and it gets hot enough to fry an egg. I think its whats keeping me from running at over 266FSB. I don't want to get an e5200 and then find out that I won't even be able to hit 3GHz with it because of the crappy motherboard, so if I got a better northbridge HS, and maybe a fan for the SB, would it make a difference?

Whats your budget? i just upgraded my E2180 with a E8200 and and p5n-e. That can o/c to 3.0 on stock cooling and vaultages. Can get it from ebuyer for under Â£150


----------



## HT3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


Ok a question:

I hate the 650i, but I want a new processor, and I won't have enough for both an e5200 and a decent P35/45 motherboard. I've be running my NB at 1.38V and it gets hot enough to fry an egg. I think its whats keeping me from running at over 266FSB. I don't want to get an e5200 and then find out that I won't even be able to hit 3GHz with it because of the crappy motherboard, so if I got a better northbridge HS, and maybe a fan for the SB, would it make a difference?


It will make different









I recommend Noctua NC-U6 on NB and Zalman NB-47J on SB

No problem running 400FSB rock solid.
450FSB is almost solid but requiers more voltage and higeher RPM on the fans.


----------



## Bleemv1

Hey guys,

first post here









I've got the P5N-E Sli and an E6300 that I'm cooling with water. (Dtek Fuzion V2 + BIX3) I wanted to know which is the best bios to overclock dual cores? Currently I'm on 0401 and haven't had too many troubles with it. Although it is starting to not boot up from a cold boot. Have to reset it sometimes. I think I may have fixed this now but upping voltages.

any help would be great


----------



## DIRTYDUCK

everyone is running the 0801 I think...I can't tell a difference but that's what I was told to get.


----------



## un4given-goth

how do i find out what bios version im running?


----------



## itsboosting

hey guys,

i've overclocked my system to 3.0ghz and i can post. However, i've been getting random reboots during usage and occt stress testing.










I have vore set to 1.32 +.100 mv
Ram timing is manually entered at 5-5-5-15 2t
fsb is 1333, multiplier is at 9
ram is at 1:1 divider @ 667mhz

everything else is set to auto i.e. NB/SB

One thing to mention, on CPUZ my VID is constantly at 1.225. Is that right? No matter what voltage i set in the bios for my vcore, CPUZ constantly shows 1.225.


----------



## itsboosting

hey guys,

i've overclocked my system to 3.0ghz and i can post. However, i've been getting random reboots during usage and occt stress testing.

I have vore set to 1.32 +.100 mv
Ram timing is manually entered at 5-5-5-15 2t
fsb is 1333, multiplier is at 9
ram is at 1:1 divider @ 667mhz

everything else is set to auto i.e. NB/SB

One thing to mention, on CPUZ my VID is constantly at 1.225. Is that right? No matter what voltage i set in the bios for my vcore, CPUZ constantly shows 1.225.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bleemv1* 
Hey guys,

first post here









I've got the P5N-E Sli and an E6300 that I'm cooling with water. (Dtek Fuzion V2 + BIX3) I wanted to know which is the best bios to overclock dual cores? Currently I'm on 0401 and haven't had too many troubles with it. Although it is starting to not boot up from a cold boot. Have to reset it sometimes. I think I may have fixed this now but upping voltages.

any help would be great









I had good luck ocing my e6320 with 0608. 0608 is best for non 45nm procs.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *itsboosting* 
hey guys,

i've overclocked my system to 3.0ghz and i can post. However, i've been getting random reboots during usage and occt stress testing.

I have vore set to 1.32 +.100 mv
Ram timing is manually entered at 5-5-5-15 2t
fsb is 1333, multiplier is at 9
ram is at 1:1 divider @ 667mhz

everything else is set to auto i.e. NB/SB

One thing to mention, on CPUZ my VID is constantly at 1.225. Is that right? No matter what voltage i set in the bios for my vcore, CPUZ constantly shows 1.225.

try checking speedfan for voltage

edit: BTW i see you are using a q6600. You may have to just back off on the oc a bit. Most ppl can't get 3ghz and over with this board stable.


----------



## Bleemv1

thanks for the replies guys. I'll give 0608 a shot. Hopefully it'll help solve me instability issues.

Which are:

On cold boot the comp won't post. If the reset button is pressed it'll boot find and prime without errors for 8hours + (small fft)

E6300 @ 3.2ghz Vcore = 1.27v + 100mv offset
FSB @ 457mhz NBcore = 1.56v
RAM @ 800mhz with 2.1v (4 x 1gb Crucial Ballistix Double Sided 800mhz)
Corsair HX620W PSU
All under watercooling

Please help


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


thanks for the replies guys. I'll give 0608 a shot. Hopefully it'll help solve me instability issues.

Which are:

On cold boot the comp won't post. If the reset button is pressed it'll boot find and prime without errors for 8hours + (small fft)

E6300 @ 3.2ghz Vcore = 1.27v + 100mv offset
FSB @ 457mhz NBcore = 1.56v
RAM @ 800mhz with 2.1v (4 x 1gb Crucial Ballistix Double Sided 800mhz)
Corsair HX620W PSU
All under watercooling

Please help










hmm try 1.3v+100mv


----------



## Bleemv1

Alright, I'll flash to 0608 and I'll up the vcore.

Vdroop is terrible on this board...Might have to do that pencil mod some time...

is it "safe" easy to do if I follow the instructions well?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


Alright, I'll flash to 0608 and I'll up the vcore.

Vdroop is terrible on this board...Might have to do that pencil mod some time...

is it "safe" easy to do if I follow the instructions well?










yeh its pretty easy..especially if you have a multimeter

As for teh bios flash, make sure you don't do it from within windows. I've heard bad things about that. Use a usb key or a floppy.


----------



## Bleemv1

Yeh, I've flashed the bios before. After that first flash I didn't know I had to reset the CMOS so I couldn't get into the BIOS! haha.

nice burger









mm need to pick up a multimeter


----------



## Bleemv1

could someone link me a vdroop pencil mod? I'm getting a vdroop of 0.08v ... measured from Everest. 1.38v Idle, 1.30v Loaded


----------



## Gauvenator

Pencil Mod:









This one is for using a variable resistor:


----------



## itsboosting

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


try checking speedfan for voltage

edit: BTW i see you are using a q6600. You may have to just back off on the oc a bit. Most ppl can't get 3ghz and over with this board stable.



Ive backed off the OC and went with a 2.7 OC for now. I'm running OCCT right now to test the stability, and will slowly tweak it from there.


----------



## Bleemv1

ahh stupid bios updates...0608 older than 0401? been trying to get update it in different ways but no go...so annoying


----------



## Bleemv1

did the pencil mod just then (computer off) and now I'm getting :

Bios : Vcore = 1.3V + 100mv offset
Everest : 1.424v idle, 1.424v load so no droop now right?

I think I penciled a bit too much since its overvolting now.

I'm not happy with temperatures though, I'm on water and was loading 66 degrees...something isn't right with the CPU block...anyways off to bed.


----------



## Deathowl

Hi this is my first post

I have this awesome motherboard, plan to do some oc in the future

Spec:

Asus P5N-E SLI MB
Intel core 2 duo E6750, 2.6 GHZ
Corsair XMS2 1GB
XFX Geforce 8500 GT
Hitachi 250GB HD
Raidmax 868 Gaming case
XP PRO SP3

Plans:

Get at least 2 GB of ram
Get a 9 series GPU
Get a Themaltake Bigwater 780e wathercooler(for overclocking cpu)


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


did the pencil mod just then (computer off) and now I'm getting :

Bios : Vcore = 1.3V + 100mv offset
Everest : 1.424v idle, 1.424v load so no droop now right?

I think I penciled a bit too much since its overvolting now.

I'm not happy with temperatures though, I'm on water and was loading 66 degrees...something isn't right with the CPU block...anyways off to bed.


What coolant are you using? I had some fluid XP that gunked up and caused high temps like those.

Unless you coolant is weird, I imagine you could have air in your reservoir.


----------



## Bleemv1

I put in Techtalloy Green coolant (Car coolant from australia) It was very fluid so I can't imaging it would be that gunky...I might check the mount and the amount of thermal paste. It could be my CPU is bowed really bad?...

I also think that all the air has been bled...I don't see any bubbles like I used toand the water level in my T-Line has dropped quite a bit, so air must have escaped. no sloshing sounds either...


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bleemv1* 
I put in Techtalloy Green coolant (Car coolant from australia) It was very fluid so I can't imaging it would be that gunky...I might check the mount and the amount of thermal paste. It could be my CPU is bowed really bad?...

I also think that all the air has been bled...I don't see any bubbles like I used toand the water level in my T-Line has dropped quite a bit, so air must have escaped. no sloshing sounds either...

aha. You used only that car coolant? That's the problem. You should try a mix of the coolant and distilled water if it is basically antifreeze..like a 1:9 ratio coolant:water

edit: changed ratio


----------



## Bleemv1

it's a pre-mixed coolant. Not just the thick goop.

The waterblock on the GPU is performing really good though. 29 degrees idle, 34 degrees load (8800GT) so flow rates are good, and the radiator is adequate.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bleemv1* 
it's a pre-mixed coolant. Not just the thick goop.

The waterblock on the GPU is performing really good though. 29 degrees idle, 34 degrees load (8800GT) so flow rates are good, and the radiator is adequate.

ah, that changes things. Most likely you just need to remount the cpu block, possibly with less paste or a different application method.


----------



## Bleemv1

yeh, I'll check out the mount this weekend. I suspect I have too much paste or it's spread poorly. I used a plastic bus ticket to spread it across the heatspreader. There are so many different methods described on the net I'm not sure what I should do.Should I just put a small dot in the middle and let the block spread it for me? Paste is Noctua NH-1 or something.

thanks for your help btw.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


yeh, I'll check out the mount this weekend. I suspect I have too much paste or it's spread poorly. I used a plastic bus ticket to spread it across the heatspreader. There are so many different methods described on the net I'm not sure what I should do.Should I just put a small dot in the middle and let the block spread it for me? Paste is Noctua NH-1 or something.

thanks for your help btw.


The dot in the middle method is a good one. I would try that first, with a bb sized amount. If it does make a difference then try some different methods for the best results. If it doesn't help then maybe your fans are too low?

The 2 that i use are:
1) Spreading a thin layer with a plastic bag over the top of the processor. The layer should be translucent. Imxp this is the best, at least with a lapped processor.
or
2) Small line down the middle of the processor like arctic silver's website recommends, just with a very small amount of paste. You should not make a big nasty thick glob that skooshes out over the edges. It should be just enough to spread out and cover the cores.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deathowl*


Hi this is my first post

I have this awesome motherboard, plan to do some oc in the future

Spec:

Asus P5N-E SLI MB
Intel core 2 duo E6750, 2.6 GHZ
Corsair XMS2 1GB
XFX Geforce 8500 GT
Hitachi 250GB HD
Raidmax 868 Gaming case
XP PRO SP3

Plans:

Get at least 2 GB of ram
Get a 9 series GPU
Get a Themaltake Bigwater 780e wathercooler(for overclocking cpu)


NONONO plz do NOT get the Thermaltake Bigwater. If you want watercooling make it custom by yourself, or get a kit from PetrasTechShop.com. Trust me, those kits are not effective. They are about as good as a midrange aircooler. You will be sooo much better off making it yourself.

edit: this is a good kit: http://www.petrastechshop.com/pecoba.html


----------



## Bleemv1

get yourself a 4gig kit of ram. 1gig is seriously holding you back







and look at teh ATi 4850. and I agree that you should get a water cooling kit and not the thermaltake kit. So much more technology in "real" water cooling stuff


----------



## Bleemv1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
The dot in the middle method is a good one. I would try that first, with a bb sized amount. If it does make a difference then try some different methods for the best results. If it doesn't help then maybe your fans are too low?

The 2 that i use are:
1) Spreading a thin layer with a plastic bag over the top of the processor. The layer should be translucent. Imxp this is the best, at least with a lapped processor.
or
2) Small line down the middle of the processor like arctic silver's website recommends, just with a very small amount of paste. You should not make a big nasty thick glob that skooshes out over the edges. It should be just enough to spread out and cover the cores.

I seemed to have covered the processor so that it isn't translucent.and then I added a bit more onto the waterblock where the processors would be touching....


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bleemv1* 
I seemed to have covered the processor so that it isn't translucent.and then I added a bit more onto the waterblock where the processors would be touching....

hehe








time for a remount


----------



## Bleemv1

oh man this is annoying me. Accidently added some air into the system and now temps are worse than every...70 degrees loaded. That is lame...Idle temps have increased by 3 degrees. Not sure if I mounted it as good as last time as well...this is at a lower voltage as well.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


oh man this is annoying me. Accidently added some air into the system and now temps are worse than every...70 degrees loaded. That is lame...Idle temps have increased by 3 degrees. Not sure if I mounted it as good as last time as well...this is at a lower voltage as well.


hmm I don't know how you have your rad attached, but if you can take it off and shake it a bit with the fittings at the highest point, then you will be able to get most of the air out of your system. I've found that the rad is where most of the air will collect in one's loop.

Also, if it's possible you should bleed the air it without the computer on, as the air will form a coating on the inside of heated water blocks.


----------



## Ld05204

Hi, i am having problems trying to flash bios back to 0608, wondering if anyone can help me? I have created a disc and it all seems fine until the part where it is ment to ask me for drive letter, it says, 'no device found'. Any ideas? is it because i'm using a SATA CD drive? kinda stumped.

Cheers


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ld05204*


Hi, i am having problems trying to flash bios back to 0608, wondering if anyone can help me? I have created a disc and it all seems fine until the part where it is ment to ask me for drive letter, it says, 'no device found'. Any ideas? is it because i'm using a SATA CD drive? kinda stumped.

Cheers


I would say use a usb drive or a floppy instead.


----------



## Macsimus

I've posted in this thread a couple times, but am still having trouble finding what I'm looking for out of the nearly 800 pages. I have the Q6600 with this board and from what i've learned from you guys is that they can only get it O.C.'d to about 3.0 on this board. Does anyone have an O.C. Profile I could use to get to a stable 3.0 or know where in the 800 pages I could find a tutorial or someone explaining how thye got theres to 3.0?


----------



## Bleemv1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


hmm I don't know how you have your rad attached, but if you can take it off and shake it a bit with the fittings at the highest point, then you will be able to get most of the air out of your system. I've found that the rad is where most of the air will collect in one's loop.

Also, if it's possible you should bleed the air it without the computer on, as the air will form a coating on the inside of heated water blocks.


I took a look at the mount I did and the thermal paste barely coated the waterblock around the core. I found that the thermal paste I applied was very thick and consequently didn't spread very easily. I think this was the main cause of poor load temps. I should have just gone for some Arctic Silver instead of the Noctua stuff...I also plan to get a reservoir to bleed the system. I'm sick of the T-line haha


----------



## Bleemv1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ld05204*


Hi, i am having problems trying to flash bios back to 0608, wondering if anyone can help me? I have created a disc and it all seems fine until the part where it is ment to ask me for drive letter, it says, 'no device found'. Any ideas? is it because i'm using a SATA CD drive? kinda stumped.

Cheers


You'll need a PATA CD drive. I was trying to flash to 0608 and found that the boot disc only supports PATA drives and not the newer SATA. I haven't done it yet, but apparentyl this is the case.

I'm on 0401 and it says that 0608 is older...so annoying


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


I took a look at the mount I did and the thermal paste barely coated the waterblock around the core. I found that the thermal paste I applied was very thick and consequently didn't spread very easily. I think this was the main cause of poor load temps. I should have just gone for some Arctic Silver instead of the Noctua stuff...I also plan to get a reservoir to bleed the system. I'm sick of the T-line haha


lol yeh the t-line is very annoying. You will be soo much happier with a res...it bleeds in like 5min literally. I love mine and I'm never going back to the t.


----------



## xtascox

I didn't see it anywhere, but what is the stock voltage for the north bridge?

Edit: NVM got the voltage figured out


----------



## Bleemv1

ahh I hate the noctua paste. Does seem right. I got the remount to have a bit better temps. 63 degeres loaded, compared to 70+. A crap load of bubbles too...looks like I'll be getting some AS5 and a res real soon.

thanks for all the help


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bleemv1*


ahh I hate the noctua paste. Does seem right. I got the remount to have a bit better temps. 63 degeres loaded, compared to 70+. A crap load of bubbles too...looks like I'll be getting some AS5 and a res real soon.

thanks for all the help


there are better pastes than as5. OCZ freezie and Tuniq TX-2 are some of the best, and are nonconductive.

Personally I like as5 best for when I'm spreading it in a thin layer. The others I mainly use for sensitive ares that could be shorted out.


----------



## raven117

hey guys i ended up being able to sell my e6750 for a great price of 150 to a friend. And my q6600 is on the way were the overclocking issues ever fixed on our board or is it still a sorry quad oc. Ive read threw the thread and saw people having trouble but most seemed kind of new and were using old bios. Im just looking to get it up to 3.2 or at least 3.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raven117* 
hey guys i ended up being able to sell my e6750 for a great price of 150 to a friend. And my q6600 is on the way were the overclocking issues ever fixed on our board or is it still a sorry quad oc. Ive read threw the thread and saw people having trouble but most seemed kind of new and were using old bios. Im just looking to get it up to 3.2 or at least 3.

You may be lucky enough to get it to 3, but there is no guarantee. This board is pretty erratic with quads at around 3ghz.


----------



## raven117

is just a lack of voltage or just some random flaw. Ive gotten my e6750 to 3.7 stable so if its a fsb issue i think im good.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raven117* 
is just a lack of voltage or just some random flaw. Ive gotten my e6750 to 3.7 stable so if its a fsb issue i think im good.

It's the 3phase power on the board. It's just not sufficient for a quad at higher clocks.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
It's the 3phase power on the board. It's just not sufficient for a quad at higher clocks.

I'll second that. I was one of the first P5N-E owners to drop a Q6600 in....and I think the first to hit 3.0GHz stable. What a PITA that was- my multimeter verified that although voltage was good, amperage dropped out and was not providing good clean power to all four cores.

Same rig with a mobo swap to the Maximus Formula and 3.6GHz was a snap...higher is probably possible with better cooling....


----------



## raven117

alright well i probably just get a 750i bored then they are getting cheaper.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Macsimus*


I've posted in this thread a couple times, but am still having trouble finding what I'm looking for out of the nearly 800 pages. I have the Q6600 with this board and from what i've learned from you guys is that they can only get it O.C.'d to about 3.0 on this board. Does anyone have an O.C. Profile I could use to get to a stable 3.0 or know where in the 800 pages I could find a tutorial or someone explaining how thye got theres to 3.0?


here is a link to the Q6600 @ 3Ghz on the P5N-Esli guide by Diddler1979

3ghz-q6600-oc-p5n-e-sli-6.html#post3489821


----------



## Praeses

<Scrapped original post>

Does Patriot Extreme Peformance Low Latency Memory - DDR2-800MHz - 2GB (PEP22G6400LL) work on this board to anybody's knowledge?


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I'll second that. I was one of the first P5N-E owners to drop a Q6600 in....and I think the first to hit 3.0GHz stable. What a PITA that was- my multimeter verified that although voltage was good, amperage dropped out and was not providing good clean power to all four cores.

Same rig with a mobo swap to the Maximus Formula and 3.6GHz was a snap...higher is probably possible with better cooling....


I know. Changed to the Maximus and could run my dual core at the time at a much lower voltage for the same speed.


----------



## manny123

I was wanting to know due to the large heatsink on the P5N-E will the Zalman CPNS 9700 LED and the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro both fit properly?


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *manny123* 
I was wanting to know due to the large heatsink on the P5N-E will the Zalman CPNS 9700 LED and the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro both fit properly?

IIRC the 9700 fits. The AF7 is listed in the first page of the thread as one which fits but...

Quote:

(Requires slight trimming of plastic on NB side of fan, w/ stock P5N-E NB heatsink)


----------



## manny123

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
IIRC the 9700 fits. The AF7 is listed in the first page of the thread as one which fits but...

Thanks for confirming that because I read about something like this with the AF7 Pro so wanted to be sure. Looks like I'll be going with the Zalman.

edit - missed that on the first page


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *manny123*


Thanks for confirming that because I read about something like this with the AF7 Pro so wanted to be sure. Looks like I'll be going with the Zalman.

edit - missed that on the first page


Its not hard in a thread to is nearly 800 pages long


----------



## manny123

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


Its not hard in a thread to is nearly 800 pages long


lol yeah I've actually read that page a lot of times but I didn't before I asked my question and at that time I forgot about it. My bad indeed







.


----------



## steffche

Hi,

An online store is selling the P5N-E Sli motheroard but has stated it is an OEM version.

I'd like to know what is the difference? Has anyone seen an OEM version of this board before?

Cheers,

Steve.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steffche*


Hi,

An online store is selling the P5N-E Sli motheroard but has stated it is an OEM version.

I'd like to know what is the difference? Has anyone seen an OEM version of this board before?

Cheers,

Steve.


oem usually means it is just the mobo and nothing else. Meaning no cables, guides, discs, etc.


----------



## steffche

The thing is that the advertisment mentions that there is no parallel port, no floppy connector and no e-sata.

Thats fine, I dont really need those anyway, but it concerns me which BIOS is loaded, and will the extra overclocking options be available in the BIOS and will I be able to update by downloading the normal BIOS updates from ASUS?

I called up and asked the guy, but he didn't know much about overclocking!


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steffche*


The thing is that the advertisment mentions that there is no parallel port, no floppy connector and no e-sata.

Thats fine, I dont really need those anyway, but it concerns me which BIOS is loaded, and will the extra overclocking options be available in the BIOS and will I be able to update by downloading the normal BIOS updates from ASUS?

I called up and asked the guy, but he didn't know much about overclocking!


I imagine it would have the same bios as retail boards. If it doesn't you could flash it.


----------



## Timoty

Well this will be my last ditch effort. I have the P5N-e Sli mobo with the following hardware:

Coolermaster 690 Case
Thermaltake V1 CPU Cooler
E6750 
2 X 8800 GT 
2 X Seagate 250 GB Sata 3 in Raid 0 
2 X 2 Patriot 1066 Memory (PVS24G8500ELKR2 - Patriot Extreme Performance Viper Series DDR2 4GB (2 x 2GB) PC2-8500)
Vista Ultimate 64 bit

Bottom line is this. I have RMA'd two sets of memory. I have tried everything I can think of to get this memory running stable at 1066. The best I can do is this.

The system hangs on every first attempt. After I reboot it will load and run orthos for over an hour flawlessly. If it goes into Standby for more than 5 minutes I have to reboot it. If I bring it out of standby still warm there is no problem.

If no one has any ideas can you suggest a good sli board that will definitely handle 1066 memory and possibly even overclock it a little.

Thanks


----------



## Timoty

BTW, I have tried setting the memory voltage, the northbridge voltage, the timings in every conceivable formula without luck. If someone out there knows the perfect formula for success I would be indebted to you.


----------



## Gauvenator

Unfortunately this board can't seem to run memory above 1000mhz. I would look at the 750i's, and make a thread asking if people are able to run their memory at 1066 with them.


----------



## Asce

Still dont think the 750i's can do 1066mhz RAM due it being a 650i underneath it.


----------



## un4given-goth

My board is running 1001 bios. i just looked on the asus website and theres only one step up from it, is there much point / much gain in updating it?


----------



## mcogan10

Not if you're running your system at stock or if your overclock is fine.


----------



## un4given-goth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


Not if you're running your system at stock or if your overclock is fine.


was thinking of taking it up to 3.0 to see how my temps changed. checking wether id need update, thx


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Asce* 
Still dont think the 750i's can do 1066mhz RAM due it being a 650i underneath it.

wow I didn't know they recycled the 650i lol. That's too bad because if I was gonna SLI the 750i would be the first boards I would look at because of price.


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


wow I didn't know they recycled the 650i lol. That's too bad because if I was gonna SLI the 750i would be the first boards I would look at because of price.


Its near enough the same NB but with the extra chip for PCI-e 2.0.


----------



## mcogan10

Hey, I want to get my e6400 to around 3.6ghz with my new xigmatek that I plan on getting...will my northbridge run too hot at 450fsb?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mcogan10*


Hey, I want to get my e6400 to around 3.6ghz with my new xigmatek that I plan on getting...will my northbridge run too hot at 450fsb?


You will mostl likely need to raise the nb voltage at 450fsb to 1.56v. You should reseat the nb cooler with a good tim (preferably nonconductive) and rig a fan to blow over it. 
Aftermarket solutions such as the Thermalright HR-05 and Thermaltake Spirit work very well also, but the first method should save some cash


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

I haven't posted on here in a while. Around the time of July tenth, I got Crysis for my computer. Little uneducated me decides that he should overclock his computer. Not knowing what to do, I merely follow some instructions I had seen earlier.
Here's the exact pages I posted on: http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...hread-748.html
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...hread-749.html
I even ask what the MB PCIE Frequency is, and get told not to change it, as I will destroy something. Guess what I do? I change it. To 1.56V.

Quoted from myself, _"I changed the nb to 1.56v, and I changed the PCIE Clock to 125 Mhz.Now, should I keep the FSB Mhz at 1333?"_

Next post, from me as well: _"Ok, whenever I play Crysis now, it starts, then it freezes, and loops whatever sound was just playing. I believe this is from overheating, but I'm not sure. Anyone have a solution?"_

Yes, I changed things that should not have been changed. Someone told me not to, someone said I should, they had a better PSU, and my computer goes kaput. Now, the computer does what the second post says. It does freeze, irritatingly enough. When frozen, the keyboard, the pointer, EVERYTHING is frozen. Restarting the computer is the only fix. An 8800 GT would make the computer freeze much faster than a PCX 5300. Further more, I recently RMA'd the mobo to get the computer fixed. Now the computer can run an 8800 GT perfectly. However, here's the problem. It freezes.

No, not because of the graphics card. It's the RAM. When using two sticks of RAM, the computer freezes after a while. One stick makes the computer work fine, just slow playing games. My Raptor Jesus sheet is incorrect, the RAM is Adata, same model, one gig each. The RAM is completely identical, and worked fine before this overclocking. Now, I'm not sure what the problem is: the PSU, or the mobo? I have tested the RAM individually, for 17 passes each using MemTest, and it displayed no errors. That should mean it is the PSU or the mobo.

The only thing I told Asus is that I 'knew' it was the PCI Bus which was broken. Guess not. Or do you think it is a PSU problem? I would like help please.

TL;DR: Two sticks of RAM makes the computer freeze, one stick doesn't, RAM is fine. PSU or Mobo?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SovereignRedoubt*


I haven't posted on here in a while. Around the time of July tenth, I got Crysis for my computer. Little uneducated me decides that he should overclock his computer. Not knowing what to do, I merely follow some instructions I had seen earlier.
Here's the exact pages I posted on: http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...hread-748.html
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...hread-749.html
I even ask what the MB PCIE Frequency is, and get told not to change it, as I will destroy something. Guess what I do? I change it. To 1.56V.

Quoted from myself, _"I changed the nb to 1.56v, and I changed the PCIE Clock to 125 Mhz.Now, should I keep the FSB Mhz at 1333?"_

Next post, from me as well: _"Ok, whenever I play Crysis now, it starts, then it freezes, and loops whatever sound was just playing. I believe this is from overheating, but I'm not sure. Anyone have a solution?"_

Yes, I changed things that should not have been changed. Someone told me not to, someone said I should, they had a better PSU, and my computer goes kaput. Now, the computer does what the second post says. It does freeze, irritatingly enough. When frozen, the keyboard, the pointer, EVERYTHING is frozen. Restarting the computer is the only fix. An 8800 GT would make the computer freeze much faster than a PCX 5300. Further more, I recently RMA'd the mobo to get the computer fixed. Now the computer can run an 8800 GT perfectly. However, here's the problem. It freezes.

No, not because of the graphics card. It's the RAM. When using two sticks of RAM, the computer freezes after a while. One stick makes the computer work fine, just slow playing games. My Raptor Jesus sheet is incorrect, the RAM is Adata, same model, one gig each. The RAM is completely identical, and worked fine before this overclocking. Now, I'm not sure what the problem is: the PSU, or the mobo? I have tested the RAM individually, for 17 passes each using MemTest, and it displayed no errors. That should mean it is the PSU or the mobo.

The only thing I told Asus is that I 'knew' it was the PCI Bus which was broken. Guess not. Or do you think it is a PSU problem? I would like help please.

TL;DR: Two sticks of RAM makes the computer freeze, one stick doesn't, RAM is fine. PSU or Mobo?


try different slots for the memory. I don't think it is a psu problem


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


try different slots for the memory. I don't think it is a psu problem


So as to say, slots 2 and 4 rather than 1 and 3?

Wouldn't PSU make it shut off completely?


----------



## Anth0789

Guys I was wondering if this ASUS P5N-E SLI mobo would be a good choice to go SLI with one day, Is it still worth it?


----------



## sha

Asus p5n e sli board that's a mission to overclock even on water,
I tranfered my q6600 to my other board asus p5b plus and acheived
a 3.60 stable overclock on air, Its still running on prime 95 with all four cores 
being strest, 
here is a screen shot


----------



## lord_legion

Good evening thought i would just quickly share my stable overclock with this motherboard i have been running on these settings for arround 2 days now with no problems details are as follows.

Bios - V1101
CPU - Q6600 (105w non energy efficient) @ 3Ghz
Memory - OCZ 6400 2gig SLI @1Ghz

only thing i have changed in the bios is setting to manual unlinked and settings CPU FSB to 1333 and memory too 1000 i have left all other settings as default and have left all timings and voltages on auto.

Please see screenshot


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SovereignRedoubt*


So as to say, slots 2 and 4 rather than 1 and 3?

Wouldn't PSU make it shut off completely?


yeh try those slots instead

also faulty psu could cause stability issues, but it sounds like you only have that with 2 sticks.


----------



## SovereignRedoubt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


yeh try those slots instead

also faulty psu could cause stability issues, but it sounds like you only have that with 2 sticks.










Thank you very, very, very much! This solved the problem! Finally, I can run with 2 gigs again. It must be the motherboard.

If possible, could anyone give me settings that won't fry anything? (not trying to be rude) My specs are below, Raptor Jesus.


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Anth0789*


Guys I was wondering if this ASUS P5N-E SLI mobo would be a good choice to go SLI with one day, Is it still worth it?


Not with a quad. They suck with quads. However I updated to bios rev 1201 and I can hit 400 fsb!

I think I may eventually go SLI with this board though. Its next on my list after a new monitor and PSU.

I don't like the overclocking options though. Linked timings are just plain messed up and the northbridge is crap, it also only runs 8x/8x with both PCIe x16 slots enabled. 8x will bottleneck anything faster than an 8800GT.


----------



## Anth0789

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nathris*


Not with a quad. They suck with quads. However I updated to bios rev 1201 and I can hit 400 fsb!

I think I may eventually go SLI with this board though. Its next on my list after a new monitor and PSU.

I don't like the overclocking options though. Linked timings are just plain messed up and the northbridge is crap, it also only runs 8x/8x with both PCIe x16 slots enabled. 8x will bottleneck anything faster than an 8800GT.


Okay thanks for the input.


----------



## UHLELEMENT

Ok guys, I am extreamly new to overclocking, so I just got all my parts put it togeather and tonight I am going to run orthos at stock everything for a stability test. This is what I got

Intel Core 2 Duo E4700 2.6GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor

COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-WW Black/Silver Aluminum Bezel, SECC Chassis ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

PNY VCG88512GXEB-FLB GeForce 8800 GT 512MB

PC Power & Cooling S75CF 750W EPS12V SLI NVIDIA SLI Certified

Patriot Viper 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (4-4-4-12)

ASUS P5N-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard

Zalman 9700LED

What should my first steps be for slow and stedy overclocking after the orthos test assuming all goes well?


----------



## Bleemv1

well I spilt water on the motherboard and shorted it out...that's the end of my p5n-e sli. Replaced it with a biostar Tpower i45. Thanks for the help in the past


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SovereignRedoubt* 







Thank you very, very, very much! This solved the problem! Finally, I can run with 2 gigs again. It must be the motherboard.

If possible, could anyone give me settings that won't fry anything? (not trying to be rude) My specs are below, Raptor Jesus.

well, first unlink the fsb. Then you want to raise the fsb for the cpu to oc. I would try 50mhz increments.
Before you start oc'ing, you should get your stock voltage from CoreTemp. Once you manually set it to stock vcore, start raising the fsb. If you become unstable raise your voltage. Do not go over 1.5v, and don't let you processor go over ~70Â°C load. If you hit that you need to drop your voltage, and possibly your oc if it becomes unstable.

Oh and make sure you disable Speedstep and C1E, as they may interfere with your overclock.

Stability testing can be done with Orthos, OCCPT, and Intel Burn Test.


----------



## nathris

Just a note that might want to be added to the OP. The Xigmatek HDT-S1283 WILL fit this board in the traditional intel setup. There about a half CM of clearance over the stock NB, but it does fit.


----------



## ragugh

but im assuming not with a zalman 9700?

edit:
was thinking you were talking about
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233021

yet another edit:
someone used this NB cooler apparently
but, i dk about it with a zalman 9700 lol
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...e&Keywords=p5n


----------



## ragugh

so, it seems that the Thermaltake CL-C0034 will fit the NB, AND the SB. even with a 8800GTS and a zalman9700, which makes me a happy camper, and probably a future buyer of it.
(once i get a video card and get a couple bucks again that is)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ords=p5n&Page=

Quote:

Pros: Cools the SB on m P5N-E SLI. Copper and Heatpipes.

Cons: Screws were a little tall had to modify to fit with 8800 GTS

Other Thoughts: I had to take the fan off to fit with the 8800 GTS and not screw up the airflow.
that seems to be the only flaw.


----------



## OptimusPrime

..meh double posted.. -->


----------



## OptimusPrime

Hey guys.. I'm having problems with my XP install on SATA. its hanging at boot and wont boot to Safe mode







I've been trying my best to keep this installation and not have to re-install every time i have problems.. so its been clean ( AVAEST, reg-fix regularly, firewall, regular spybot/adaware runs.. etc.

my 500 SATA has my XP install and i have two other ATA IDE drives 80 and 250. If i disconnect my IDE drives my board wont recognize the XP install on the SATA. If i install with only SATA i get NTLDR missing...

IS there a fix or problem with SATA windows installs on this board? I feel like files are seperated from my SATA and ATA IDE. Boot.ini? If its not a virus, my 250 Seagate has bad sectors and when i disconnect it i can't boot from SATA as only drive. I feel like files are on it, or boot.ini or something odd..? since my 250 is bad i feel like it might hang because of it, but i'm not sure, and that doesn't make sense to me.

Any help would be appreciated.. i would rather not wipe or reinstall XP again. I'm sick of the mess afterwards and my program folder full of non-working programs that i have to reinstall.

thanks.. .this sux. FYI.. ran adaware while i was out, came home, and XP hangs at boot.. YAYA (>_O)


----------



## ragugh

whats the max stable, non harmful nb voltage?
i have stock HS on it, with as5 applied and a little fan on it, keep that in mind


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ragugh* 
whats the max stable, non harmful nb voltage?
i have stock HS on it, with as5 applied and a little fan on it, keep that in mind

I've run 1.56 for several months before. But it's only necessary around 1600fsb and above. As long as it's running cool it shouldn't be a problem.

I believe the 1.7v setting is the one that will really speed up the electronmigration and kill your board.


----------



## TL0000

Hi
Yes patroit will run fine on this MB and can get a decent overclock on llk 2x2gigs or 4x1 gigs and should boot up with no change to bios if manually set.

tl


----------



## ragugh

gauv, (was gonna just reply via xfire, but joo arent online)
how do i check specifically my nb temp?


----------



## OptimusPrime

anyone ? help me out with above problem.

Can't frikin get this board to install with SATA as primary







... today i removed my other ata drives and have my SATA only.... still having problems booting from it. NTLDR missing


----------



## lord_legion

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OptimusPrime* 
anyone ? help me out with above problem.

Can't frikin get this board to install with SATA as primary







... today i removed my other ata drives and have my SATA only.... still having problems booting from it. NTLDR missing

I had a very simalar problem if not the same i have 2 x 250gig drives on a raid and several IDE drives in my machine.

I installed vista onto the raid several times and it would work the first few times then i would receive the ntldr message also my solution was as follows.

"if you have a raid set that up in raid bios first".

Next set the bios settings to default so that all the boot settings and drive prioritys are defaulted leave the SATA drive in what ever postion it set its to in my case it would put my IDE drive at 1 and 2 and my 3rd drive would be my Nvidia Raid.

I then install vista onto the RAID in this configutation.

What i found was my PC would always boot fine when my OS drive was set to priority 3 in the bios if i moved it above my IDE drives to number 1 i would receive the NTLDR message straight away then putting it back to 3 it booted back into vista no problems.

My suggestion is set the book prioritys to there defaults install your OS onto the selected drive and then make a not of there positons and leave them at that.

No idea if this will help your situation but it was my work around.


----------



## leterrible

Hello everyone!

im brand new to this site and this will be my first post yayy! ok so ive been reading about overclocking alot and decided to tinker around with my rig a little bit. i was increasin the fsb (333mhz stock) and kept testing things out with Everest Ultimate's stability test and things were showing pretty good. Eventually i got to that point were i needed to increase the voltage. thats where i think i need more knowledge because i think i screwed something up with the vcore. its showin stock 1.35v and i think i was setting the vcore to something like 1.4 or something. things ran ok for a couple of days and in the middle of a game it went kapoot. i knew right away it was the power supply because i'd press the button and the led's would flash for a split second then nothing.
i guess the point of this is i dont really know much about voltages which is whats makin me think that thats what fried the PSU









if theres any info i probly should have included just post and i'll get back to answer an hopefull we can get to the botom of this.









ty in advance!


----------



## lord_legion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leterrible*


Hello everyone!

im brand new to this site and this will be my first post yayy! ok so ive been reading about overclocking alot and decided to tinker around with my rig a little bit. i was increasin the fsb (333mhz stock) and kept testing things out with Everest Ultimate's stability test and things were showing pretty good. Eventually i got to that point were i needed to increase the voltage. thats where i think i need more knowledge because i think i screwed something up with the vcore. its showin stock 1.35v and i think i was setting the vcore to something like 1.4 or something. things ran ok for a couple of days and in the middle of a game it went kapoot. i knew right away it was the power supply because i'd press the button and the led's would flash for a split second then nothing.
i guess the point of this is i dont really know much about voltages which is whats makin me think that thats what fried the PSU









if theres any info i probly should have included just post and i'll get back to answer an hopefull we can get to the botom of this.









ty in advance!


poop my friend i presume you have tried reseating all componants and resetting the bios to defaults using the onboard jumpers?.
normally from my experience if the psu goes you wont get any life from it and wouldnt even have the PC turn on for a second.

Do you have any other machines or maybe a trusting friend with a simalar machine you could test componants with also is there any raised capacitors on your motherboard etc?

im no expert when it comes to voltages by far but im suprised that only 1.4V has blown something specially when the stock is 1.35.

see if any of the componants are dead and cauing the problem and send it back for a replacement as DOA


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leterrible*


Hello everyone!

im brand new to this site and this will be my first post yayy! ok so ive been reading about overclocking alot and decided to tinker around with my rig a little bit. i was increasin the fsb (333mhz stock) and kept testing things out with Everest Ultimate's stability test and things were showing pretty good. Eventually i got to that point were i needed to increase the voltage. thats where i think i need more knowledge because i think i screwed something up with the vcore. its showin stock 1.35v and i think i was setting the vcore to something like 1.4 or something. things ran ok for a couple of days and in the middle of a game it went kapoot. i knew right away it was the power supply because i'd press the button and the led's would flash for a split second then nothing.
i guess the point of this is i dont really know much about voltages which is whats makin me think that thats what fried the PSU









if theres any info i probly should have included just post and i'll get back to answer an hopefull we can get to the botom of this.









ty in advance!


Nothing should have fried with 1.4v, unless you are using a cheap power supply. Have you tried clearing your cmos?


----------



## leterrible

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lord_legion* 
poop my friend i presume you have tried reseating all componants and resetting the bios to defaults using the onboard jumpers?.
normally from my experience if the psu goes you wont get any life from it and wouldnt even have the PC turn on for a second.

Do you have any other machines or maybe a trusting friend with a simalar machine you could test componants with also is there any raised capacitors on your motherboard etc?

im no expert when it comes to voltages by far but im suprised that only 1.4V has blown something specially when the stock is 1.35.

see if any of the componants are dead and cauing the problem and send it back for a replacement as DOA










yes i put in my stock 550w psu and stock 8600gt and everything is now fine, telling me that there was no other damage. and yes i did not get any life from it whatsoever with the other psu. BTW the power supply was an 800w BFG tech so im thinkin maybe it was just faulty? the only other hardware that is not in there is my 8800 ultra but according to all the symptoms ive been readin about PSU's crappin the bed makes me deffinately think it was the psu. and the more i think about it im thinkin i had the vcore set to the higher 1.5's...

as far as returning it then that's out of the question..i got it at the closing of comp usa for 100 bucks.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *leterrible*


yes i put in my stock 550w psu and stock 8600gt and everything is now fine, telling me that there was no other damage. and yes i did not get any life from it whatsoever with the other psu. BTW the power supply was an 800w BFG tech so im thinkin maybe it was just faulty? the only other hardware that is not in there is my 8800 ultra but according to all the symptoms ive been readin about PSU's crappin the bed makes me deffinately think it was the psu. and the more i think about it im thinkin i had the vcore set to the higher 1.5's...

as far as returning it then that's out of the question..i got it at the closing of comp usa for 100 bucks.










rma it with the manufacturer, BFG. It should still be under warranty.


----------



## Krosious

hey i just stumbled on this forum searching for answers to my problem on google lol... anyways...

my problem is i have RAM that is stock at 800mhz speed but my system will only work when i underclock the RAM to 667mhz.

when the ram is at 800mhz the comp locks up before the ability to get into the bios becomes available or sometimes it makes it past that point but then locks up just b4 or as windows starts loading up...

the board is capable of using 800mhz ram so idk what im doing wrong... should i be using a diff bios?

Future note: i want to run 1066mhz RAM but ide like to figure out how to fix this problem before investing the money into the RAM


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krosious*


hey i just stumbled on this forum searching for answers to my problem on google lol... anyways...

my problem is i have RAM that is stock at 800mhz speed but my system will only work when i underclock the RAM to 667mhz.

when the ram is at 800mhz the comp locks up before the ability to get into the bios becomes available or sometimes it makes it past that point but then locks up just b4 or as windows starts loading up...

the board is capable of using 800mhz ram so idk what im doing wrong... should i be using a diff bios?

Future note: i want to run 1066mhz RAM but ide like to figure out how to fix this problem before investing the money into the RAM


what is your stock voltage for your ram? You most likely just need to set that manually so it is stable.
btw this board can do 1000mhz tops with ram.


----------



## Krosious

my voltage is on auto... i just restarted and set everything to stock clocks and started it up and it works fine... so i restarted then OCed everything that was OCed b4... and it works fine... im lost lol... this board confuses me, and for 1000mhz RAM what is your recommendation?

also im curious if a Q9300 will ever be able to work in this board? cause i have one but its sitting in a box lol do i need new board or you think this will support it anytime soon?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krosious*


my voltage is on auto... i just restarted and set everything to stock clocks and started it up and it works fine... so i restarted then OCed everything that was OCed b4... and it works fine... im lost lol... this board confuses me, and for 1000mhz RAM what is your recommendation?

also im curious if a Q9300 will ever be able to work in this board? cause i have one but its sitting in a box lol do i need new board or you think this will support it anytime soon?


it's possible that the q9300 will work, but it will probably not oc well at all.

as for the ram, you said yours is advertised as 1066 right? I would use the same timings and voltage as they advertise for 1066 at 1000mhz.


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krosious*


also im curious if a Q9300 will ever be able to work in this board? cause i have one but its sitting in a box lol do i need new board or you think this will support it anytime soon?


Q9300 isn't supported, no yorkfields are. BIOS 1301 will hopefully be coming out soon, so maybe then? I doubt it though.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SovereignRedoubt*


:
If possible, could anyone give me settings that won't fry anything? (not trying to be rude) My specs are below, Raptor Jesus.


I have the same board and cpu.
What bios do you have, have you added any extra cooling to the north bridge, what is the ram you are using(Timings and voltage) and what is the 600watt PSU (make & model)

I use slots 2 and 4 for my ram as well, I have seen a few people saying that these slots seem to be more stable.


----------



## overclockerfx

Hi,
Has anyone tried the 1301 beta bios? the reason im asking is because im having trouble with lowering multis with my E5200 on the 1201 bios.


----------



## nathris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *overclockerfx*


Hi,
Has anyone tried the 1301 beta bios? the reason im asking is because im having trouble with lowering multis with my E5200 on the 1201 bios.


I want to try it, but the only news I've had of it was someone in the asus forums with like 10 posts saying he got it in an email.

I'm not trusting this guy with my motherboard!


----------



## deltaepsylon

Whoo, someone else is having the 800MHz RAM problem? I had that a while too, never figured out what was wrong. I've tried upping the ram voltages 1, two notches, setting it on auto, etc, and my system still hangs with 800MHz 2x2gb, but runs fine with 667MHz 2x2gb. Anyone wanna try to figure out why its effed? lol


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Whoo, someone else is having the 800MHz RAM problem? I had that a while too, never figured out what was wrong. I've tried upping the ram voltages 1, two notches, setting it on auto, etc, and my system still hangs with 800MHz 2x2gb, but runs fine with 667MHz 2x2gb. Anyone wanna try to figure out why its effed? lol

Make sure you have your ram set to the timings and voltage set to the values specified by the manufacturer.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Been there, done that. Ive tried setting the secondary timings too, from what I've found online. No go no matter what I set for timings.


----------



## eggrolls

Does anyone know what is the most accurate program to monitor voltages on this board? I use HWMonitor, and it _used_ to be consistent with what I set in BIOS: i.e. I set 1.10V +100mV in BIOS, and it would report 1.20V when idle and drop down to ~1.10V when under load.

Not sure why, but now HWMonitor is no longer reporting the same. Using the exact same settings and hardware, it would report 1.25V at idle. I downloaded Speedfan 4.35 and it reports 1.18V at idle. Which one is right?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eggrolls* 
Does anyone know what is the most accurate program to monitor voltages on this board? I use HWMonitor, and it _used_ to be consistent with what I set in BIOS: i.e. I set 1.10V +100mV in BIOS, and it would report 1.20V when idle and drop down to ~1.10V when under load.

Not sure why, but now HWMonitor is no longer reporting the same. Using the exact same settings and hardware, it would report 1.25V at idle. I downloaded Speedfan 4.35 and it reports 1.18V at idle. Which one is right?

use the latest version of coretemp.


----------



## Ghostkilla

anyone having any luck using the 1201 bios? Im thinking it might cure my issue. I had a pretty stable OC specs are still the same on my rig. Was running xp 64 now im runnin vista 64 and sometimes when I watch a movie or play an old pinball game it will screen lock on me and I have to do a hard reset. I can play any of the top games just fine. Anyone else having an issue with this? I havent ran orthos or prime on vista 64 yet but my voltages are as follows

Vcore posting at 1.325 with +100 enabled
Vdimm @ 2.17
NB @ 1.5
mem timings set to 1:1
Just cant figure this screen lock out. If I set my clock settings to default it doesnt do it so I know it lies in my oc somewhere. Was thinking maybe updating my bios to 1201 may cure it but its a long shot. Im running 0901 currently.


----------



## marsey99

pc probe should give you the same readings as the bios.

black slots were more stable on the earlier boards but others have said this was later fixxed, but for most people it wont do much (oc wise) with all 4 dimms full.

try upping nb volts if you still cannot get to ddr800, i had 2x2gb ocz's doing 1066 on mine but 1040 was about the max i would call 100% stable, ymmv. that was with vdimm-2.08 and nb 1.5.

best bios for earlier conroes was 0404, later versions added ram/quad and newer cpu support/fixes.

above all you need to cool the board, the nb and the power regs both need better than stock cooling.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
pc probe should give you the same readings as the bios.

black slots were more stable on the earlier boards but others have said this was later fixxed, but for most people it wont do much (oc wise) with all 4 dimms full.

try upping nb volts if you still cannot get to ddr800, i had 2x2gb ocz's doing 1066 on mine but 1040 was about the max i would call 100% stable, ymmv. that was with vdimm-2.08 and nb 1.5.

best bios for earlier conroes was 0404, later versions added ram/quad and newer cpu support/fixes.

above all you need to cool the board, the nb and the power regs both need better than stock cooling.


Thats funny, I updated bios to 1201 and ran orthos prime for 9 hours right out of the gate with a 3.2Ghz OC from 2.13Ghz. Thats a pretty damn good oc for air if you ask me. Got 4x1GB of ram too. The newer bios had fixes for vista 64-bit. I never had any issue with xp running this same setup using bios 0901. How can you say 0404 is the best bios? I highly dissagree with pc probe too. I use coretemp and after confirming real temps with a probe the bios temps arent very accurate either. go with what you know, I always say.


----------



## marsey99

if you think thats its fixxed for you then great m8 but tbh 3.2 from 2.1 aint much for a c2d is it....i had this board since it was 2 weeks in the shops and tested bios' along the way. for the 800/1066fsb c2d 404 was the best 608 was the best for c2q and the later ones, well i stopped as the chipset is fsb limited so.....

but yea, ignore me m8 as i know nothing lol, its not like pcprobe and the board are made by the same people, o wait......


----------



## PersianOverClocker

any review for Bios ver 1503 ?


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *marsey99* 
if you think thats its fixxed for you then great m8 but tbh 3.2 from 2.1 aint much for a c2d is it....i had this board since it was 2 weeks in the shops and tested bios' along the way. for the 800/1066fsb c2d 404 was the best 608 was the best for c2q and the later ones, well i stopped as the chipset is fsb limited so.....

but yea, ignore me m8 as i know nothing lol, its not like pcprobe and the board are made by the same people, o wait......


Im not ignoring anyone, Im talking to you arent I? Over a 1Ghz increase on air is pretty good IMO. If My temps would go lower im sure I could get more but damn, it runs every game out including crysis on full on settings @ 1920x1200 res. What more do you need? Ive had this board since day one as well. Ive used EVERY bios out except anything between 0901-1201 I just skipped past that. Makes no sense to go any further since I can upgrade my cpu for less than 100 bucks and be faster than my current E6400 with stock settings. I personally just go for practical gains that increase performance for my needs not just bragging rights.


----------



## s1ckz

Hey whats up guys! i need your help! check this thread out!
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ot-oc-all.html
thank you.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


Make sure you have your ram set to the timings and voltage set to the values specified by the manufacturer.


Weird... I tried that again, and stable so far! Thanks


----------



## willmarth2

This is my first post and introduction. I am 51, married with 2 boys. I only play games on pc, no consoles. The last 7 years I have worked in call centers, 4 years computer related.
I have a p5n-e sli mb with a e6300 OC 5%. I want to overclock the simplest way, to 20%, using the jumper free utility. I will need new memory and heatsink because it shuts down with what I have. I want to be able to play Crysis. I have a Nvidia 8800 GTS card, 648mb. I have to get up to 2.2 mhz or ghz, I forget which one. I am a former phone tech for Gateway computers. By next summer I want to get a quad cpu. I want my heatsink and memory ready for a quad. I had my system built to my specs. I wanted and sli ready, quad ready system. I have never OC before. I want my HS to easily installed. I don't want to trim anything. I don't want to pull out the MB to install something in the back. I am thinking in the $25-$50 range for HS and same amount for the memory. I like to buy from Newegg. This forum looks perfect for research. I get paid this Friday so let's me hear from you quickly. Lastly, I built my system with the game Alan Wake in mind. That was 2 years ago.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


This is my first post and introduction. I am 51, married with 2 boys. I only play games on pc, no consoles. The last 7 years I have worked in call centers, 4 years computer related.
I have a p5n-e sli mb with a e6300 OC 5%. I want to overclock the simplest way, to 20%, using the jumper free utility. I will need new memory and heatsink because it shuts down with what I have. I want to be able to play Crysis. I have a Nvidia 8800 GTS card, 648mb. I have to get up to 2.2 mhz or ghz, I forget which one. I am a former phone tech for Gateway computers. By next summer I want to get a quad cpu. I want my heatsink and memory ready for a quad. I had my system built to my specs. I wanted and sli ready, quad ready system. I have never OC before. I want my HS to easily installed. I don't want to trim anything. I don't want to pull out the MB to install something in the back. I am thinking in the $25-$50 range for HS and same amount for the memory. I like to buy from Newegg. This forum looks perfect for research. I get paid this Friday so let's me hear from you quickly. Lastly, I built my system with the game Alan Wake in mind. That was 2 years ago.



fill out your system specs in the CP. for that small of an oc you wont need any more cooling especially if you run the case with the sides off. Go nad a program called coretemp and see what your temps are looking like before you try ANY OCing. My system came with an oem fan/HS and I could do small oc's with just that fan. Check out my rig, Im doing that on air but I run a tuniq tower 120 which is probably the biggest HS/fan out there. It takes up ALOT of room but it works very well.


----------



## willmarth2

This is data from HWmonitor. I played about 10 minutes of Advanced War Fighter then ran the numbers.

ITE IT87 hardware monitor

Voltage sensor 01.38 Volts [0x51] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage sensor 13.28 Volts [0xCD] (+3.3V)
Voltage sensor 34.92 Volts [0xB7] (+5V)
Voltage sensor 412.16 Volts [0xBE] (+12V)
Voltage sensor 74.89 Volts [0xB6] (+5V VCCH)
Voltage sensor 83.12 Volts [0xC3] (VBAT)
Temperature sensor 069Â°C (156Â°F) [0x45] (TMPIN0)
Temperature sensor 157Â°C (134Â°F) [0x39] (TMPIN1)
Temperature sensor 223Â°C (73Â°F) [0x17] (TMPIN2)
Fan sensor 02778 RPM [0xF3] (FANIN0)
Fan sensor 11439 RPM [0x1D5] (FANIN1)
Intel Core 2 Duo E6300 hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 0-39Â°C (-39Â°F) [0x7D] (Core #0)
Temperature sensor 1-40Â°C (-41Â°F) [0x7E] (Core #1)

Dump hardware monitor

Hardware monitor
-----------------------------------------------------

GeForce 8800 GTS hardware monitor

Temperature sensor 082Â°C (179Â°F) [0x52] (GPU Core)Processors Information
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processor 1 (ID = 0)
Number of cores2 (max 2)
Number of threads2 (max 2)
NameIntel Core 2 Duo E6300
CodenameConroe
SpecificationIntel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6300 @ 1.86GHz
PackageSocket 775 LGA (platform ID = 0h)
CPUID6.F.6
Extended CPUID6.F
Core SteppingB2
Technology65 nm
Core Speed1958.5 MHz (7.0 x 279.8 MHz)
Rated Bus speed1119.1 MHz
Stock frequency1866 MHz
Instructions setsMMX, SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, EM64T
L1 Data cache2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L1 Instruction cache2 x 32 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
L2 cache2048 KBytes, 8-way set associative, 64-byte line size
FID/VID Controlyes
FID range6.0x - 7.0x
max VID1.325 V
FeaturesXD, VT

Here is info from Belarc Advisor.
Operating System System Model
Windows Vista Ultimate Service Pack 1 (build 6001) No details available
Processor a Main Circuit Board b
1.95 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
2048 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5N-E SLI 1.XX
Bus Clock: 279 megahertz
BIOS: Phoenix Technologies, LTD ASUS P5N-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0307 12/25/2006
Drives Memory Modules c,d
320.07 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
106.51 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space

LITE-ON DVDRW LH-18A1P ATA Device [CD-ROM drive]
3.5" format removeable media [Floppy drive]

Generic STORAGE DEVICE USB Device [Hard drive] -- drive 1
Generic STORAGE DEVICE USB Device [Hard drive] (2.06 GB) -- drive 2
ST332062 0AS SCSI Disk Device (320.07 GB) -- drive 0 2046 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM_A1' has 1024 MB
Slot 'DIMM_A2' has 1024 MB
Slot 'DIMM_B1' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM_B2' is Empty
Local Drive Volumes

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 320.07 GB 106.51 GB free


----------



## willmarth2

"fill out your system specs in the CP"

Not sure what you mean.


----------



## willmarth2

Oh, you mean control panel. OK.


----------



## willmarth2

The Crucial website scanner could not detect my memory specs so I must have an off brand. Cpuz say it is single channel, Dram freq 419.6, fsb:dram2.3, cas latency 5 clks, ras to case delay 6 clks, ras precharge 6 clocks, cycle time 31 clocks, bank cycle time 24 clocks, command rate cr 2T.
Remember I am overclocking 5%. I hope I am giving useful info.


----------



## willmarth2

Hey I found my memory info in cpuz under spd tab. 
2 gigs
Kingston pc2-6400 400 mhz 
part# KTC1G-UDIMM. 1.8v. 
Pretty slow.


----------



## XPbeatsVista

so the p5n-e has a big heatsink for the nb but no fan for its be green range of boards
anyone come up with something that cools better 
i have a 60mm fan lying around and i might somehow mount that on to the stock heatsink
what have you got?
anything interesting?
cooling better than stock?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Hey I found my memory info in cpuz under spd tab. 
2 gigs
Kingston pc2-6400 400 mhz 
part# KTC1G-UDIMM. 1.8v. 
Pretty slow.


Those should be Elpida 8E IC's- maybe even the same ones that I run. If so, they OC really well with very little voltage. 2.0V on them should get you to PC8500 (1066MHz) speeds.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XPbeatsVista*


so the p5n-e has a big heatsink for the nb but no fan for its be green range of boards
anyone come up with something that cools better 
i have a 60mm fan lying around and i might somehow mount that on to the stock heatsink
what have you got?
anything interesting?
cooling better than stock?


Looks like you've got a quad in there...meaning you probably run your FSB at 333MHz or less. The stock HS is more than adequate to handle a low FSB @1.5ish volts. Just reseat it with some decent TIM like AS5 or Shin-Etsu. After I reseated my P5N-E NB HS with AS5 I ran my quad 333x9- with NB temps nudging ~40C in 90F+ ambients.


----------



## r0b126

wow, can't believe this thread is still alive lol. I "upgraded" to the 750i FTW board a while back, but went back to this one. Went through 4 boards that wouldn't allow me to play WoW with 2x 9600GT's in SLI. Didn't give up easily either.

Am curious as to what the more recent overclocks with this board and an E8400 have looked like. Next time I upgrade this CPU, I think it is going to be for a Q9550. I am just wondering if people are stably overclocking to 4.5ish GHz with the newer memory. PC7200+


----------



## XPbeatsVista

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Those should be Elpida 8E IC's- maybe even the same ones that I run. If so, they OC really well with very little voltage. 2.0V on them should get you to PC8500 (1066MHz) speeds.

Looks like you've got a quad in there...meaning you probably run your FSB at 333MHz or less. The stock HS is more than adequate to handle a low FSB @1.5ish volts. Just reseat it with some decent TIM like AS5 or Shin-Etsu. After I reseated my P5N-E NB HS with AS5 I ran my quad 333x9- with NB temps nudging ~40C in 90F+ ambients.


I run my FSB at 333Mhz or less?
So my CPU isnt running at 1066Mhz?
what the hell?
i haven't OCd yet... at all.
please elaborate


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XPbeatsVista*


I run my FSB at 333Mhz or less?
So my CPU isnt running at 1066Mhz?
what the hell?
i haven't OCd yet... at all.
please elaborate










I'm quoting as single data rate (SDR)- the actual operating frequency of the MCH. The Core CPUs use a Quad pumped bus (QDR)- so a 333MHz FSB equates to 1333 QDR. A 266MHz FSB would equate to a 1066MHz QDR (stock for the Q6600).


----------



## XPbeatsVista

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XPbeatsVista*


I run my FSB at 333Mhz or less?
So my CPU isnt running at 1066Mhz?
what the hell?
i haven't OCd yet... at all.
please elaborate










oh right soz
you mean for each core im kinda tired atm
so yeah
i might just do what you said and reseat it with some akasa TIM i got when i replaced my cpu cooler


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla* 
fill out your system specs in the CP. for that small of an oc you wont need any more cooling especially if you run the case with the sides off. Go nad a program called coretemp and see what your temps are looking like before you try ANY OCing. My system came with an oem fan/HS and I could do small oc's with just that fan. Check out my rig, Im doing that on air but I run a tuniq tower 120 which is probably the biggest HS/fan out there. It takes up ALOT of room but it works very well.

I ran coretemp and my ti max was 85, core 0 was 80, 1 was 78. I just ran vista's rate my performance tool right before.


----------



## willmarth2

Running Tom Clancy's Advanced Warfighter the core temps got up to 125 C.


----------



## rasa123

Quote:



so the p5n-e has a big heatsink for the nb but no fan for its be green range of boards
anyone come up with something that cools better
i have a 60mm fan lying around and i might somehow mount that on to the stock heatsink
what have you got?
anything interesting?
cooling better than stock?


All I did was mount a spare 60mm to the side of my cpu fan and it cools the nb great.


----------



## willmarth2

I am using Vista's readyboost with flash card. Could that be why i shut down on 20% OC?


----------



## gsscott50

Hi guys,

this is my first post. I am a Scotland based 3D visualizer. I'm looking for some advice on overclocking my system for improved render times. I use 3D Max and Vray and have my system up and running pretty much 24/7. A lot of the time the cores are working 100%, rendering through the night. Im looking for improved efficiency for my render times without sacrificing system stability. the holy grail probably? Im not a total noob. I bought my system pre-built, but have added upgrades myself such as power supply and cpu cooling fan. the fan involved a rear mount on the mobo, so i got to know my mobo better than i expected to. Anyway, just looking for some advice on over-clocking. I don't play games on my pc and it is used pretty much exclusively for 3d work. I have an app called speedfan running at the minute which lets me know all core temps etc. it seems to be relatively stable, with cores running under 50C under 100% load. Sorry if I have left any glaringly obvious info out and thanks for your help!


----------



## Ghostkilla

this thread is a cluster****. lol Im sure theres loads of good info in here and all of these answers have been answered before but most people needing help just slip through the cracks and never get answered. lol I know im not about to go through 796 pages.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gsscott50* 
Hi guys,

this is my first post. I am a Scotland based 3D visualizer. I'm looking for some advice on overclocking my system for improved render times. I use 3D Max and Vray and have my system up and running pretty much 24/7. A lot of the time the cores are working 100%, rendering through the night. Im looking for improved efficiency for my render times without sacrificing system stability. the holy grail probably? Im not a total noob. I bought my system pre-built, but have added upgrades myself such as power supply and cpu cooling fan. the fan involved a rear mount on the mobo, so i got to know my mobo better than i expected to. Anyway, just looking for some advice on over-clocking. I don't play games on my pc and it is used pretty much exclusively for 3d work. I have an app called speedfan running at the minute which lets me know all core temps etc. it seems to be relatively stable, with cores running under 50C under 100% load. Sorry if I have left any glaringly obvious info out and thanks for your help!


run 3dmark06 and tell me what kind of score you get with that. I wasw thinking of upgrading to a quad on mine but most games dont even utilize that **** yet.


----------



## willmarth2

Is there anybody here with a e6300 who has used the jumper free utilty to overclock? Why does my system shut down at 20% OC?


----------



## gsscott50

Hey,

Thanks for getting back to me. I got a score of 11877.


----------



## xtascox

Hey guys, my 4.0 GHZ became unstable on my P4 631 so I had to up to volts to 1.3. After doing some charting with speedfan, I noticed my vcore has been fluctuating between 1.26 and 1.3v. Could this be a PSU issue or is this "vdroop"? Everything is stable and my temps are fine so if I have to keep it set at 1.3 then I will.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gsscott50*


Hey,

Thanks for getting back to me. I got a score of 11877.



I get 12400 with my old E6400 oced to 3.2Ghz. lol I cant remember if 3dmark uses quads yet though. Might check out vantage pretty soon.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Is there anybody here with a e6300 who has used the jumper free utilty to overclock? Why does my system shut down at 20% OC?



Because the AI OC is a POS. I wouldnt even think about ocing till you get some aftermarket cooling. Do a search on overclocking tutorials on here and do your homework. All this stuff has been covered there and will teach you more than what you need to understand how to overclock.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


Hey guys, my 4.0 GHZ became unstable on my P4 631 so I had to up to volts to 1.3. After doing some charting with speedfan, I noticed my vcore has been fluctuating between 1.26 and 1.3v. Could this be a PSU issue or is this "vdroop"? Everything is stable and my temps are fine so if I have to keep it set at 1.3 then I will.



set your volt setting to the +100 setting. I use bios 1201 and that setting and the vdrop isnt apparent at all.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


Because the AI OC is a POS. I wouldnt even think about ocing till you get some aftermarket cooling. Do a search on overclocking tutorials on here and do your homework. All this stuff has been covered there and will teach you more than what you need to understand how to overclock.


Thanks for being direct. I will order one of the coolers on page 1. I hope I get the easiest to install. I assume just a cpu HS will do the trick.
I have studied overclocking at Toms Hardware Forums. My eyes glaze over after a while. I want to do this though. I understand the FSB is important. Core temp is key. The multipier is also key. 
I buy the HS Friday online.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


set your volt setting to the +100 setting. I use bios 1201 and that setting and the vdrop isnt apparent at all.


Ok, I really wasn't sure what that setting did. I'll give it a shot, thanks.


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Thanks for being direct. I will order one of the coolers on page 1. I hope I get the easiest to install. I assume just a cpu HS will do the trick.
I have studied overclocking at Toms Hardware Forums. My eyes glaze over after a while. I want to do this though. I understand the FSB is important. Core temp is key. The multipier is also key. 
I buy the HS Friday online.



Get the arctic freezer pro 7. matter of fact I have one I was lapping but ended up running my TT120. Could sell it to ya dirt cheep.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
Running Tom Clancy's Advanced Warfighter the core temps got up to 125 C.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
Is there anybody here with a e6300 who has used the jumper free utilty to overclock? Why does my system shut down at 20% OC?

OK you definitely need to either reseat the stock cooler or buy a new one. I think you already mentioned you are buying one. I recommend the Xigamatek 120mm.

As for you system crashing, AI oc also oc's the ram, which is likely causing the problem. I have overclocked an e6320 (like yours but more cache and less oc) on this board, and it is really easy to oc it if you do it manually. You will first have to set your vcore manually to the stock voltage CoreTemp shows you, and set the fsb to manual and unlinked. Then you can start edging the fsb up, and if you hit instability you likely need to raise the vcore. If I were you I would start with 1333fsb and go from there (you will skip over the early fsb hole on this board, and 2.33ghz is a good oc to have stable.)


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gauvenator* 
OK you definitely need to either reseat the stock cooler or buy a new one. I think you already mentioned you are buying one. I recommend the Xigamatek 120mm.

As for you system crashing, AI oc also oc's the ram, which is likely causing the problem. I have overclocked an e6320 (like yours but more cache and less oc) on this board, and it is really easy to oc it if you do it manually. You will first have to set your vcore manually to the stock voltage CoreTemp shows you, and set the fsb to manual and unlinked. Then you can start edging the fsb up, and if you hit instability you likely need to raise the vcore. If I were you I would start with 1333fsb and go from there (you will skip over the early fsb hole on this board, and 2.33ghz is a good oc to have stable.)

Great info. I will wait till I get the new HS. I need the precise numbers like you are giving.


----------



## nathris

I'M FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!

Upgraded to a P5K-E WIFI P35 motherboard









Still setting Vista up so no overclocking, but NB is much cooler, I have a SB heatsink, MOSFET heatsink, and my HDT-S1283 doesn't even come close to my NB heatsink!

I'm planning to keep my P5N-E SLI for a while though, so I doubt this will be my last post.


----------



## dasparx

Hey, Im free too
















I still have the P5N-E Sli tho.. paired with an p4 520 and a 6600GT


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dasparx*


Hey, Im free too
















I still have the P5N-E Sli tho.. paired with an p4 520 and a 6600GT











il be free at christmas going to EVGA 780i ftw I NEED a board capable of tri sli + getting more out of my ram i.e being able to use all 4sticks and higher than 3.0ghz from my quad core









my p5ne sli has served me well for the 3 years ive had it


----------



## willmarth2

I have a slide show online. I tried to OC before buying HS and it would not boot. I still need to study more. I set the bios to default setting. This is a quick slide show of my bios now.

http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...view=slideshow

I buy the HS's tomorrow.


----------



## OptimusPrime

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


set your volt setting to the +100 setting. I use bios 1201 and that setting and the vdrop isnt apparent at all.


I would say be careful of this setting. While it works, it will also add +100 MV's to your voltage. While i myself see fluctuations, a Voltage of 1.3xx will end up being 1.4V's !

what i've been wondering, is the V-core more stable with the +100 offset and a lower voltage, or no +100 and a higher core voltage.

1. = +100 and 1.2xx = 1.3xx ?

2. = no +100 and 1.3xx volts...

which is more stable, and/or does it make a difference?


----------



## willmarth2

I am buying these coolers for my p5n-e sli tomorrow from newegg. Let me know what you think.

Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
Arctic Silver ACN-60ML (2-PC-SET) Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier - OEM 
CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop 
EVERCOOL MNC-E Fans - for memory
Scythe SY124010L Fans - cheap fan for NB
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - Retail

Total cost: $104.47

The Cooler Master Blue Ice is not available for SB. It is on back order. Let me know I am overdoing it.


----------



## willmarth2

My non-oc cpu core temp is 80 C. Is that hot? It is a E6330. 
Correction. That is the max. My idle temp is 36 C.


----------



## raven117

hey guys i have been having issues lately with my mobo which drivers are most stable for you guys.


----------



## Derp

The new 15.23 drivers gave me BSOD so i went back to the ancient 15.08 which doesnt BSOD me daily.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
I am buying these coolers for my p5n-e sli tomorrow from newegg. Let me know what you think.

Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
Arctic Silver ACN-60ML (2-PC-SET) Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier - OEM
CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop
EVERCOOL MNC-E Fans - for memory
Scythe SY124010L Fans - cheap fan for NB
ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - Retail

Total cost: $104.47

The Cooler Master Blue Ice is not available for SB. It is on back order. Let me know I am overdoing it.

I would get a different, non-conductive thermal compound personally. I recommend OCZ Freezie, or Tuniq TX-2, both of which perform better than AS5.

As for the cpu cooler, I do not recommend the Freezer Pro 7 because you have to modify it to fit, and it doesn't work that well anyway in my experience.
Personally I would splurge a little extra and get a Xigamatek 120mm with a bolt-thru kit, which clears the nb, and cools much better.

edit: also don't get the ram fan; you only start to need cooling above 2v, and unless you are planning to really push you ram, you are going to be running at stock 1.8v (unless of course you ram has a higher stock voltage)


----------



## krambo

Hi, my CPU multiplier seems to be locked at x9. I can change it but when I reboot it resets to x9.

Any ideas?


----------



## willmarth2

I don't get it. I change my mulitplier to 8. I follow the guide at the beginning of this thread. I boot up and cpuz says my multipler is 6 and I have no OC.


----------



## willmarth2

Here is my order from Newegg placed seconds ago.

Dynatron DF124028BH-3/L 40mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan Fan for 1U System - OEM
Item #: N82E16811999701

$4.99

CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X2048-6400 - Retail
Item #: N82E16820145590

$36.99

Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
Item #: N82E16835100007

$5.99
1

ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler - Retail
Item #: N82E16835186134
$26.99


----------



## chib

I have the P5N-E SLI and a Q6600 (G0) I have no idea where to start with over clocking (all stock cooling) any advise?


----------



## xtascox

My Q6600 arrived today (with G0 stepping of course)
















I'll see what it can do later tonight.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krambo*


Hi, my CPU multiplier seems to be locked at x9. I can change it but when I reboot it resets to x9.

Any ideas?


Your cpu cannot go any higher than the x9 multiplier. You need an extreme cpu with an unlocked multiplier to go higher than stock multiplier. However, you can go lower.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


I don't get it. I change my mulitplier to 8. I follow the guide at the beginning of this thread. I boot up and cpuz says my multipler is 6 and I have no OC.


You probably have intel speedstep and/or c1e enabled. Disable them in the bios and your multiplier will stay the same always.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


You probably have intel speedstep and/or c1e enabled. Disable them in the bios and your multiplier will stay the same always.


I went back and checked and rebooted. I got my FSB OC but my multiplier went down again. I don't know. I will wait for my HS and memory and try again.


----------



## raven117

reinstalled vista no problems so far with the newest drivers then gpu beta drivers.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raven117*


reinstalled vista no problems so far with the newest drivers then gpu beta drivers.










what error was you getting im getting nv4_dll error on every game its doing my head in ive clean installed gpu drivers + chipset i dont want to reinstall my os again :'(


----------



## cca50

Hello
I am new, retired and live in Alabama. Divorced and live alone except for the rotti. I am trying to learn more about building computers and over clocking.. I have built this one but still learn new things daily.
I do have several question to ask, stupid as they may be. I am running OC now at 3150. Seems when I try going higher I find stability problems. So it is a work in progress.
My first question at this moment is about he bios. I was told by ASUS to use the 1301 bios which keeps telling me the bios failed when booting at times and have to go in and just use the CMOS profile I have saved. Is there another beter bios to run? Any sugestions?
Thanks in advance


----------



## willmarth2

What do ya'll think of Asus Probe. It gives a warning that my cpu is running hot at 75 C at no OC, bios set to default. By the way CCA, I am from Alabama too.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cca50* 
Hello
I am new, retired and live in Alabama. Divorced and live alone except for the rotti. I am trying to learn more about building computers and over clocking.. I have built this one but still learn new things daily.
I do have several question to ask, stupid as they may be. I am running OC now at 3150. Seems when I try going higher I find stability problems. So it is a work in progress.
My first question at this moment is about he bios. I was told by ASUS to use the 1301 bios which keeps telling me the bios failed when booting at times and have to go in and just use the CMOS profile I have saved. Is there another beter bios to run? Any sugestions?
Thanks in advance

I've been running 1201 for a little while now with no problems. If you are having issues with 1301, it wouldn't hurt to try an older revision.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


What do ya'll think of Asus Probe. It gives a warning that my cpu is running hot at 75 C at no OC, bios set to default. By the way CCA, I am from Alabama too.


Asus probe generally stinks imo; try coretemp and speedfan.


----------



## cca50

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


I've been running 1201 for a little while now with no problems. If you are having issues with 1301, it wouldn't hurt to try an older revision.


Thanks! Right now I am ready to try about anything.


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


My Q6600 arrived today (with G0 stepping of course)
















I'll see what it can do later tonight.


I'd be interested to hear your results. I gave up after a while. Couldn't get past 2,7Ghz (300x9). Though I must admit, that was a while ago and I'm still on the 0703 BIOS. I didn't even think to check for new ones until today... maybe a newer BIOS works better for the Q6600?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadDogX*


I'd be interested to hear your results. I gave up after a while. Couldn't get past 2,7Ghz (300x9). Though I must admit, that was a while ago and I'm still on the 0703 BIOS. I didn't even think to check for new ones until today... maybe a newer BIOS works better for the Q6600?


nope 0608 is the only bios that can get a q6600 to 3.0ghz stable on this board







im on 1201 max i could get stable is in my sig 2.67ghz


----------



## willmarth2

It is running great and cool. I took a screenshot of all my utilities with the 20% AI OC. I will manually OC later. Hope this is big enough. 
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=9a38ffa6.jpg


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


It is running great and cool. I took a screenshot of all my utilities with the 20% AI OC. I will manually OC later. Hope this is big enough. 
http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=9a38ffa6.jpg


awesome! you will find you can reach much higher and more stable oc's when manually oc'ing.


----------



## MadDogX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


nope 0608 is the only bios that can get a q6600 to 3.0ghz stable on this board







im on 1201 max i could get stable is in my sig 2.67ghz


Thanks for the info.









Saves me the trouble of going through several different BIOS versions. I'm not sure if I want to downgrade though. I guess I'll just try the 12xx or 13xx version and see if I can keep my 300x9 clock.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MadDogX* 
Thanks for the info.









Saves me the trouble of going through several different BIOS versions. I'm not sure if I want to downgrade though. I guess I'll just try the 12xx or 13xx version and see if I can keep my 300x9 clock.

your welcome there is a thread with a full guide on how to downgrade and overclock to 3.0ghz on the quad 6600


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


nope 0608 is the only bios that can get a q6600 to 3.0ghz stable on this board







im on 1201 max i could get stable is in my sig 2.67ghz


So that's why I'm having so much trouble getting past 2.6GHZ... well that and my psu can't keep the vcore constant anymore.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


your welcome there is a thread with a full guide on how to downgrade and overclock to 3.0ghz on the quad 6600










Could you post a link to that thread?

EDIT: Found it, nevermind! Here's a link for those interested http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821


----------



## krambo

Hi,

for some reason i couldnt tighten my timings anything past 5 with my RAM in the yellow slots on the MOBO, I put the RAM in the black slots and iv tightened them right up!

BLACK SLOTS - NOT YELLOW


----------



## Wizzy

Someone over at OcUK managed to get a Yorkfield Q9450 fully working on the Asus P5N-E SLI!









http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...668494&page=98


----------



## ACHILEE5

Hi, thinking of getting a P5N-E SLI








Main reson is i can get cheap local and my board at the mo is only 667, and i have 800 ram. Plus, thinking i should sli a second 8800








Is there any reson not to, with my E8500








Thanks
gary


----------



## not quite there yet

Hi guys
Im running completely stable at 3.0ghz on my P5 E SLI, with a Q6600.
2 questions, im looking to upgrade my crap ram and notice that the QVL does not say that DDR 1066 memory is acceptable. Is this the case? Must i go for DDR2 800??
i think im going for crucial ballistix tracer (because i really want the l.e.d's!)
what do you think?
Also, im struggling with 3d mark 06. Ive 2x 8500GTs in SLI and my score is only around 6000.
Is it my GPUs or my crappy ram? or maybe my slow OS (windows xp home)?
any suggestions?
thanks


----------



## willmarth2

ddr2 at 496 MHZ. I think I did it guys. I haven't run orthos yet. Wow! That is E8400 speed.


----------



## willmarth2

I stopped at 3 Mhz. Let me know if you see something wrong. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...screenshot.jpg


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *not quite there yet*


Hi guys
Im running completely stable at 3.0ghz on my P5 E SLI, with a Q6600.
2 questions, im looking to upgrade my crap ram and notice that the QVL does not say that DDR 1066 memory is acceptable. Is this the case? Must i go for DDR2 800??
i think im going for crucial ballistix tracer (because i really want the l.e.d's!)
what do you think?
Also, im struggling with 3d mark 06. Ive 2x 8500GTs in SLI and my score is only around 6000.
Is it my GPUs or my crappy ram? or maybe my slow OS (windows xp home)?
any suggestions?
thanks


I'd say it's the gpu's.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


I stopped at 3 Mhz. Let me know if you see something wrong. http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/f...screenshot.jpg


Looking good. Just make sure you pci-e frequency is at 100.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Uh-oh...
Last night, as I was using my computer, it completel froze. I couldn't move the mouse, CtrlAltDel didn't work, etc., etc., so I hit the 'reset' button. Since I've been having sporadic freezes and the like, I figured perhaps the RAM voltage wasn't enough (my old P5N didn't work at 800MHz, but this one did, for some reason). I upped the voltage in the BIOS to the next option up (1.92v I think it was, it was on AUTO before), hit F10 to save and exit, and waited for the BIOS to post. Except it didn't post. As soon the BIOS image comes up, the comp freezes. If I rapidly spam Tab before the logo pops up, it'll show the post message. It spits out:

Pheonix - AwardBIOS blah blah

Asus P5N-E SLI ACIP BIOS REVISION 1101

Main Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Extreme CPU 3.00GHz
Memory Testing: 2096128K OK(Installed Memory 2097152K)

And then it freezes up.
I've tried removing the battery, unplugging the comp and removing the battery, doing the CLRTC thing... no go.
Is my RAM maybe fried? It should be able to take 1.92v (its manufacturer specification is 1.8v, but I've given it 1.92v before).

Oh, and I noticed that in the BIOS, where It says main Processor, I think it used to say QX6850, but it no longer does...

Help!
edit: should I post this in the main intel-mobo section too? I dont wanna get killed for posting it twice...


----------



## gtz

My p5n-e sli sometimes stalls at the boot up screen, and like you it stops at the ram. Whenever this happens I have to unplug all my usb devices including the card reader. Maybe this is what is happenning to you.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Hmm... I'll try that and post back any results.

edit: AWSOME, it worked!
I got into BIOS now, so I'm reset all settings, etc.

+rep


----------



## deltaepsylon

Aw crap. I think the fact that the USB thing worked was just a coincidence; my P5N stalled again, except the USB thing won't work now








Help!


----------



## rasa123

Yesterday, I booted up my pc and it came up with my bios version and said "bios rom checksum error". I don't know what to do. I tried reseting my cmos, but that didn't change anything. I disconnected my hard drives, thinking that the fact that I just added another might have caused it, but nothing changed. When I looked it up and on some forums, people had to flash their bios. How much is involved in doing that? Will that fix the problem? Thanks in advance for any help at all, I'm really desperate and need to get this computer running as soon as possible.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Did you try resetting via the jumper?
this boar seems to be more problematic than its worth...


----------



## rasa123

No, but I'll try and post how it goes.


----------



## rasa123

I cleared the cmos by using the jumper, but it still didn't post or anything. It still has that error message and says it's checking the drives. AAHH!!


----------



## deltaepsylon

How did you jumper-clear the CMOS? Also, you might wanna try booting with the original Asus CD in the drive, if you still have that...
In fact, IIRC from the manual, putting a BIOS on a flashdrive and plugging that in should let you flash the bios, & solve your problem


----------



## rasa123

I already tried booting with the original ASUS cd in, it said it flashed it but nothing changed when I rebooted it. I'll try flashing it from a flashdrive.....hopefully it'll work.


----------



## rasa123

I can't figure out how to flash the bios by using a flashdrive. I've tried to look it up, but I can't find anything. I downloaded my previous version (608) because it had never given me trouble before. I put it on my flashdrive and booted the pc, but it didn't do anything different. Do I need a program or something else to make this work?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rasa123* 
I can't figure out how to flash the bios by using a flashdrive. I've tried to look it up, but I can't find anything. I downloaded my previous version (608) because it had never given me trouble before. I put it on my flashdrive and booted the pc, but it didn't do anything different. Do I need a program or something else to make this work?

You've got to make your flash drive an ms-dos boot disk. There is a utility by HP that does this, then you can copy AWDFLASH (from Asus) onto it, along with your bios. Be aware this does format the drive. I'll edit in instructions in a moment.

Heres a link to the utility: http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport...reg_R1002_USEN
Then go to Asus's website, and download "Phoenix Award BIOS flash tool version 1.20". It will be a zip file with AWDFLASH.exe inside. Copy this to your flash drive once it has been formatted with the HP utility. Then copy your bios.

You now can boot off of it and run awdflash.exe

You may want to check your manual for more information before doing it.
gl


----------



## rasa123

Thanks for all the info. I'll try this tomorrow and hope for the best.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Yeah, gauvenator filled in the other steps. I didn't really remember them ^_^
Hope it works out.


----------



## gtz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Aw crap. I think the fact that the USB thing worked was just a coincidence; my P5N stalled again, except the USB thing won't work now








Help!


Ok I believe you are having a usb issue. You motherboard tries to find all usb devices wether they are connected or not. Next time it boots up, your next step is to disable usb 2.0. Going back to usb 1.1 (or something along those lines). That should resolve your stalling issues. If you leave your computer on long enough it will boot, mine booted after 15 minutes.

Only a few batch of P5N-E SLI have this problem, the reason I know becuase mine has the same problem.

Let me see if I can find the email that asus sent me (if I have not deleted it). Giving me suggestions to resolve this certian bug.


----------



## deltaepsylon

So I just leave it at the 'stuck' screen for like 15min?

Edit: The bios stopped doing that annoying thing with the freeze-at-ram-check, but then it started to randomly freeze elsewhere. I managed to get into the bios and disable USB2.0 controller though, and it now no longer freezes (knock on wood). So I just cant have USB 2.0 on my board?


----------



## gtz

Man I might have one more solution for you, so you could have usb 2.0 again. But it is risky and there is a chance that it wont even work. Out of all the bios I tried, BIOS 401 solved my stalling issues when I had usb 2.0 on (I have not tested bios 1301 so that might be a solution aswell), but I decided to live with not having usb 2.0 since bios 401 is a horrible overclocker.

But there is a chance going to bios 401 wont work for you, I tried to help another person with a similar problem on another forum and when he (I am assuming could be a girl) went to bios 401 did not solve a thing.

Try going to newer bios or older bios and see if one of them solves your issue. But make sure your computer is stable, keep using it for a while to make sure it stops freezing. I don't want you to boink your board.

Anyway I hope this might help.

PS: Where did you purchase your board, maybe that same place was the store selling the motherboards with the bug, since only a few are affected.


----------



## deltaepsylon

I can't go back to 401... my CPU isn't supported until the 7xx BIOS's.

I think my computer just freaks out when my RAM isnt at 1:1 DRAM:FSB Ratio. When the RAM is running at 666.7, its all fine, but if I try to set it up to 800mhz as its rated, it hates me. Maybe I have to bring up my FSB to 1600 to get it to work...

As for the problem that was at hand, its now fixed. Thanks!


----------



## bymo003

Hi, I've been trying to overclock my q6600 on my P5N-E SLI and have had so little success it's almost embarrassing. I have 2x1GB OCZ platinum 800mhz ram, an OCZ vendetta 2 CPU cooler, and a extreme spirit II cooler on the northbridge. If you have any suggestions or comments it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## rasa123

Ok, I realized I couldn't flash my bios through my flashdrive because it has data on it that I can't backup on another computer so I decided to try to flash it by using a cd. I downloaded the Phoenix Award BIOS flash tool version 1.20 and bios version 608 and burned them both to disc, but my computer didn't act any different while going through the bios rom checksum error sequence. I'm sure I'm missing something simple in the flashing process....any ideas?


----------



## nathris

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bymo003* 
Hi, I've been trying to overclock my q6600 on my P5N-E SLI and have had so little success it's almost embarrassing. I have 2x1GB OCZ platinum 800mhz ram, an OCZ vendetta 2 CPU cooler, and a extreme spirit II cooler on the northbridge. If you have any suggestions or comments it would be greatly appreciated.

P5N-E only has 3 phase power, so that means its **** for overclocking quads. If you can get 3GHz with your Q6600 you deserve a medal.


----------



## bymo003

Thanks for the tip nathris. maybe I can pick up a cheap e6850 or something, any dual core recommendations?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rasa123* 
Ok, I realized I couldn't flash my bios through my flashdrive because it has data on it that I can't backup on another computer so I decided to try to flash it by using a cd. I downloaded the Phoenix Award BIOS flash tool version 1.20 and bios version 608 and burned them both to disc, but my computer didn't act any different while going through the bios rom checksum error sequence. I'm sure I'm missing something simple in the flashing process....any ideas?

The disk needs to be made bootable... if its not, nothing'll happen.
You need to either back up the data thats on your flashdrive and do what Gauvenator said, or use the original P5N-E Sli CD-ROM to do a recovery.


----------



## rasa123

Quote:



The disk needs to be made bootable... if its not, nothing'll happen.
You need to either back up the data thats on your flashdrive and do what Gauvenator said, or use the original P5N-E Sli CD-ROM to do a recovery.


I tried using the original cd that came with the board, but still nothing happened.


----------



## rasa123

Ok, scratch that. The computer gods have decided to smile upon me because it just flashed the bios and it worked! Thanks for all of the help.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Yay!


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bymo003* 
Hi, I've been trying to overclock my q6600 on my P5N-E SLI and have had so little success it's almost embarrassing. I have 2x1GB OCZ platinum 800mhz ram, an OCZ vendetta 2 CPU cooler, and a extreme spirit II cooler on the northbridge. If you have any suggestions or comments it would be greatly appreciated.

Try my guide and boot cd to install bios 0608.


----------



## Staplergun

How does one install new bios to a mobo.

Newb question. Deal with it.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Staplergun*


How does one install new bios to a mobo.

Newb question. Deal with it.


one post before you


----------



## Staplergun

I see.

Also nice burger in your picture. You made me hungry


----------



## floppydrivez

Sup everyone I just got a new pc and I am interested in making the most of it.


----------



## floppydrivez

I was able to clock it up to 2.8, but the motherboard starting hitting 45-47c. Not sure what to do about that just yet.

Also, confused about what voltages I should concern myself with mostly. I guess voltages is where I get lost on OC'ing.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddler1979*


Try my guide and boot cd to install bios 0608.


Hi
I need some help with the boot CD for the p5n e sli.
I upgraded my bios yesterday to the 1301 from 0608 because of a few problems I was having that I thought was bios related.

With the 0608 bios I was able to run a fsb as high as 1920 or 480fsb, now with the 1301 I cant make it past 1800 or 450fsb.

Now the problem is I cant get the 0608 to flash back, tried using the asus update tool and via ezflash in the bios, I can flash to any other bios after the 0608, I just cant get 0608 to flash.

I have loaded your CD and at dos I typed AWDFLASH.EXE, AWDFLASH 0608.BIN and AWDFLASH, but nothing worked.

Could you explain what do I type at dos after I have loaded your CD, to flash me back to 0608 bios.

Thanks

Edit:

Well I booted of a USB pen drive into DOS and then I ran AWDFLASH and the 0608 bios, both of which I downloaded from asus today(why they have 0608 bios on there site , when it cant be installed I will never know) and still no go.Seems like I will never be able to flash back to the 0608 then(screenshot added).
I am still willing to give this CD a try.

Anybody who is on the 0608 bios(meant to be the best for quad core on this board) and thinking about flashing, you might not get back to the 0608.
I wish had of known this before I changed bios.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddler1979*


Try my guide and boot cd to install bios 0608.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddler1979*

My guide has all the info you need but the simple answer is you are forgetting to put /f at the end of the bios command. This forces the bios to be put on your machine.

AWDFLASH 0608.BIN /F



Hi
Still didn't work. I will download the .ISO again and try again later, thanks for your help.
Here is a screen shot, maybe some body can see where I am going wrong.

EDIT:
Finally got back to the 0608 bios and a 475fsb with your help.

I just used the AWDFLASH 0608.BIN /F with a usb drive that I had setup to boot of and with a different AWDFLASH + 0608 bios

For some reason I could not get it to work from your ISO, maybe it got corrupt when I was down loading it.

Anyway

Thank you so much. +REP


----------



## brandon6199

I just sent my ASUS P5N-E SLI for RMA. It's been well over a year since I've had it, and it's starting to crap out


----------



## Snake_A

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Hi
Still didn't work. I will download the .ISO again and try again later, thanks for your help.
Here is a screen shot, maybe some body can see where I am going wrong.

EDIT:
Finally got back to the 0608 bios and a 475fsb with your help.

I just used the AWDFLASH 0608.BIN /F with a usb drive that I had setup to boot of and with a different AWDFLASH + 0608 bios

For some reason I could not get it to work from your ISO, maybe it got corrupt when I was down loading it.

Anyway

Thank you so much. +REP










Hey , im having a look on ur pc specs. How did you manage to overclock your ram over 800mhz??? (P5N-E SLI can take Ram up to 800mhz)


----------



## xtascox

Snake, I've had a lot of success overclocking memory on this board. I had mine running up to 1066, but I dropped back down because I didn't like putting so much voltage to my memory and northbridge. I bumped it down to 950 when I had my pentium 4 at 4.ghz. This board seems to do well overclocking memory IMHO.


----------



## Snake_A

Really??? I want my q6600 @ 3ghz and Ram on 1000mhz. Is it possible??? Can someone give me the configuration please???


----------



## UkGouki

^you need bios 0608 set the ram manually timings and voltages i had my q6600 @ 3.0ghz and ram at 850mhz

ram timings were 4.4.4.12 command rate 2 2.110voltage
cpu @ x9 multi 1333qdr/fsb = 333x9 1.2500v on cpu bear in mind my cpu has an extremely low vid! and is the go revision

disable speedstep & c1e enhanced halt state i left all other like northbridge etc.. on auto was stable for 6 months, until i got my 9800gtx+ and well had to update my bios to take it







then my board crapped out and the fsb bus burned out almost took the gpu with it i didnt bother rma'ing it i just boaght a new board my p5nd 750i its a lot more stable and cooler etc...


----------



## Snake_A

Your mobo is p5n-e sli or p5n-d ?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Snake_A*


Your mobo is p5n-e sli or p5n-d ?


i have both i had the p5n-e sli until saturday last week when it died

click on my stock 3dmark06 score


----------



## Snake_A

ok.. i will check out your configuration... my bios rev is 0608 my q6600 is G0 .


----------



## Ealae

I'm having a little trouble breaking the 3GHz mark with my E2140. My goal is 3.2GHz for a 100% overclock.

Currently:
Vcore - 1.4v
NB - 1.393v
Memory voltage - Spec
FSB - 1400
RAM - 700
BIOS rev. - 0608

I tried the following to attempt 3.2GHz:
Vcore - 1.4125v
NB - 1.563v
FSB - 1600
RAM - 800

But it doesn't boot. Shouldn't those settings be enough for 3.2GHz? I'll try upping the Vcore, but I'm not gonna go much higher for temps sake. I'm using a TRUE and an HR-05 SLI/IFX on the NB. SB doesn't have a sink on it. Could that be a factor? Although I have a pretty good airflow (250mm side intake, 200mm top exhaust, 120mm rear exhaust).


----------



## floppydrivez

I have confirmed mostly what I have read. The P5N-E sli needs more cooling (esp the northbridge).

Can anyone recommend a cpu and northbridge set that fits? We will keep cases out of it for now.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *floppydrivez*


I have confirmed mostly what I have read. The P5N-E sli needs more cooling (esp the northbridge).

Can anyone recommend a cpu and northbridge set that fits? We will keep cases out of it for now.


cpu fans on the very 1st page of this thread i believe

but here's a small list
zalman 9500/9700 nt 
thermaltake blue orb 2
asus dark knight
TRUE all versions

northbridge cooler 
Hr05 is the only aftermarket one i know definitely fits

southbrige you can buy a non standard heat sink for it but if you sli gpu's may cause clearance issues if you use cards bigger than 7600gt's

maplins sell southbridge heatsinks in the UK there only Â£3 i think thats just a sink what will fit and is low profile no fan attached


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Snake_A*


Really??? I want my q6600 @ 3ghz and Ram on 1000mhz. Is it possible??? Can someone give me the configuration please???


The only way I can really see this being pulled off is with a lot of voltage to the northbridge and your ram. You are going to need to make sure you have adequate cooling for your ram and an aftermarket heatsink/fan for your northbridge.


----------



## Snake_A

I have Zalman Fatal1ty for my cpu. But default cooling for my ram..


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:



Originally Posted by *floppydrivez*


I have confirmed mostly what I have read. The P5N-E sli needs more cooling (esp the northbridge).

Can anyone recommend a cpu and northbridge set that fits? We will keep cases out of it for now.


I used an Arctic Freezer Pro 7 on my Q6600 on the P5N-E when I had one and a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the nb and it was awesome.


----------



## Snake_A

My ram are not suiteable for OC







.... So... tough luck. Is there anyway to OC the q6600 above 3ghz on p5n-e sli ??


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Snake_A* 
My ram are not suiteable for OC







.... So... tough luck. Is there anyway to OC the q6600 above 3ghz on p5n-e sli ??


nope teh highest has been 3.04ghz this board is just not good with quad cores


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UkGouki* 
nope teh highest has been 3.04ghz this board is just not good with quad cores









I second that. I tried pushing it higher with no success. But I did get my ram running back at 800mhz along with my Q6600 at 3.0ghz. I picked up one of those Antec spot coolers and I have it blowing right on my memory and northbridge heatsink. Now I'm not so afraid to push her a little more


----------



## cry.w07f

Hey Guys, I've never OverClocked before and i was wondering if i'd be able to OC my board as it is now .. or if i need to make some more purchases first.

I have a Pentium Dual Core @3.00GHz
I have 2x 1GB XMS2 RAM

I do not have an aftermarket HS on NB or SB chips.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cry.w07f* 
Hey Guys, I've never OverClocked before and i was wondering if i'd be able to OC my board as it is now .. or if i need to make some more purchases first.

I have a Pentium Dual Core @3.00GHz
I have 2x 1GB XMS2 RAM

I do not have an aftermarket HS on NB or SB chips.

get an aftermarket cpu cooler at the minimum and you should be able to get 3.2 to 3.4 quite easy


----------



## cry.w07f

I have an after market cpu HS/Fan: Masscool 8WA741

edit: Also i am running the 608 version of Bios.
And what i was looking for is a detailed explanation of HOW TO OC this mobo as i've never OC'd before.


----------



## azcrazy

i just got this board for cheap but i tried a PD920 , and i cant get it to work i see the fans and the green light on but no signal in my monitor ,i don't know what bios it has ,ram 2x1gb ballistix (the orange ones ) and i 8800 gts 640mb G80 , the psu is a cheap one but i have a 700watt OCZ modxtreme that i can put there if it works, any help will be appreciated


----------



## UkGouki

^i would use the better psu more than likly not enough power to the gpu

@cry your fsb is 800 on your cpu for 3.0ghz i dont know your multiplier but to overclock it up the fsb from 800 to 840 for a 5% overclock you may have to up your vcore too set memory to unlinked but its minor and shouldnt need you to up the vcore :-/


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


^i would use the better psu more than likly not enough power to the gpu

@cry your fsb is 800 on your cpu for 3.0ghz i dont know your multiplier but to overclock it up the fsb from 800 to 840 for a 5% overclock you may have to up your vcore too set memory to unlinked but its minor and shouldnt need you to up the vcore :-/


well i was usuing the same PSU on a ASUS P5B and i 8800 gt and it work fine ,so is the memory


----------



## floppydrivez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *diddler1979*


I used an Arctic Freezer Pro 7 on my Q6600 on the P5N-E when I had one and a Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the nb and it was awesome.











Interesting, did you have to modify the freezer 7 to make it fit with the thermaltake northbridge cooler?


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


nope teh highest has been 3.04ghz this board is just not good with quad cores










Thats kinda strange. I got my q6600 at 3.2 with 1.3 vcore and 1.5 nb. Boot up first time and was stable with prime. I coudnt push it more cuse of my limitation for cpu cooling. As soon as I got some 1283 or true I am pushing it up on this board.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


Thats kinda strange. I got my q6600 at 3.2 with 1.3 vcore and 1.5 nb. Boot up first time and was stable with prime. I coudnt push it more cuse of my limitation for cpu cooling. As soon as I got some 1283 or true I am pushing it up on this board.












Quote:



Originally Posted by *Snake_A*


My ram are not suiteable for OC







.... So... tough luck. Is there anyway to OC the q6600 above 3ghz on p5n-e sli ??


Why is your ram not suitable? Corsair Dominator should be ok with overclocking.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


Thats kinda strange. I got my q6600 at 3.2 with 1.3 vcore and 1.5 nb. Boot up first time and was stable with prime. I coudnt push it more cuse of my limitation for cpu cooling. As soon as I got some 1283 or true I am pushing it up on this board.


the highest







Proven is 3.04ghz 24/7 stable until you can provide proof of it pointless bragging imo i couldnt get past 3.01ghz on my p5n-e.

new mobo ive had 3.4ghz but temps were too high and it failed after 6 hours of prime due to overheat


----------



## cry.w07f

Got it OC'D to 3.84GHz. Found another thread on this site that helped alot.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cry.w07f* 
Got it OC'D to 3.84GHz. Found another thread on this site that helped alot.

nice overclock







+1


----------



## diddler1979

Quote:


Originally Posted by *floppydrivez* 
Interesting, did you have to modify the freezer 7 to make it fit with the thermaltake northbridge cooler?

Nope, worked like a charm on both my Asus and now my XFX 680i as in the picture below.


----------



## rasa123

Hey everyone, I recently got an Intel e2180 and want to start overclocking it. I've looked all over the place for information on oc'ing that cpu on this board, but haven't come up with anything as of yet. Can anyone help me start out on this?


----------



## ltrevo

i got some problem using this mobo..
during the installation of windows xp, whn it auto reset for the 1st time , it juz wont continue to finish setup the windows thn it'll juz reboot from the cd drive again..

what may i do to solve this problem..
i'hv tried many ways but none of thm will solve the prob..

i'hv also tried to use another cd drive, hdd, or even another hdd with clean windows xp installed.. but when i try to boot from the hdd it give me error message "Disk boot failure, insert system disk and press enter. "

I need some advice please..


----------



## h3xw1z4rd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cry.w07f* 
Got it OC'D to 3.84GHz. Found another thread on this site that helped alot.

nice overclock








I managed to get my old pd 805 to 4ghz on this board


----------



## mavizaman

which 2gb 800mhz(single module) rames are compatible with P5N-E SLI?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mavizaman*


which 2gb 800mhz(single module) rames are compatible with P5N-E SLI?


corsair xms2 
geil black dragons 
kingston value select

theres more on the ASUS QVL list on there website xD


----------



## rasa123

I'm pretty sure Crucial Ballistix work, too.


----------



## jchapman805

this is the worst mobo to ever come out..i overclock my quad core 200mhz and bluescreens for eternity


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


this is the worst mobo to ever come out..i overclock my quad core 200mhz and bluescreens for eternity


This board isn't really very friendly to quads(Although I've had absolutely no issues with my Q6600 on this board, even with pushing it to 3.0ghz). It's an older board so give it a break. Maybe you should post what you are doing instead of bashing the board and maybe we can help you.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


this is the worst mobo to ever come out..i overclock my quad core 200mhz and bluescreens for eternity


By looking at ur rest of parts of ur sig rig u should of get some better mobo. 
U have qx and 9800gx2, like 780 would be perfect for that.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


this is the worst mobo to ever come out..i overclock my quad core 200mhz and bluescreens for eternity


well duh your using memory thats not really supported by the board you have to downclock it to 1000mhz also the rest of your parts are very high end i would just get another board i was happy with my p5n-e @ 3.0ghz on my q6600 upset that it died


----------



## mavizaman

can you give me link of list?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


corsair xms2 
geil black dragons 
kingston value select

theres more on the ASUS QVL list on there website xD


----------



## Praeses

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


corsair xms2 
geil black dragons 
kingston value select

theres more on the ASUS QVL list on there website xD


These? http://www.take2.co.za/electronics-k...b-3430851.html 
I currently have mushkin EM2 in the black slots and I want to upgrade to 4 x 1GB. Can you maybe guarantee that they'll work in the yellow slots?


----------



## jchapman805

well see i originaly bought this board for my e6600 and it was great to get up to about 3.4-3.5 with my 1200mhz hyper x ram..then i went to a lan event and i got the qx6700 for free and 4gigs of hyper x for free then i just bought the 9800gx2 and placed it into the board and it just took a **** the 4th ram slot burns out memory like no other, right now im saving for the gigabyte p45 chipset but i dont know which is better the gigabyte p45 or the 780i ftw...any takers on how to beast my computer?


----------



## jchapman805

are there any jumpers on this board to get it to 1333fsb?


----------



## jchapman805

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


This board isn't really very friendly to quads(Although I've had absolutely no issues with my Q6600 on this board, even with pushing it to 3.0ghz). It's an older board so give it a break. Maybe you should post what you are doing instead of bashing the board and maybe we can help you.


ive tried alot with this board...ill try 1333fsb linked with the memory at auto i think and it will load up and everything just wont get past windows vista loadup...it wont even hit the bar were its trying to load just shuts off and reboots i have 4 gigs of hyper x 8500 and i got 2 extra gigs of hyper-x 9200 but i dont use it cause it would be a waist to place inside the system so i just let leave this system at 1066fsb with ram at 800mhz...ill take advise on what to do just post your opinions


----------



## jchapman805

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


This board isn't really very friendly to quads(Although I've had absolutely no issues with my Q6600 on this board, even with pushing it to 3.0ghz). It's an older board so give it a break. Maybe you should post what you are doing instead of bashing the board and maybe we can help you.


ive tried alot with this board...ill try 1333fsb linked with the memory at auto i think and it will load up and everything just wont get past windows vista loadup...it wont even hit the bar were its trying to load just shuts off and reboots i have 4 gigs of hyper x 8500 and i got 2 extra gigs of hyper-x 9200 but i dont use it cause it would be a waist to place inside the system so i just let leave this system at 1066fsb with ram at 800mhz...ill take advise on what to do just post your opinions


----------



## donthaveacow

first work on your cpu overclock by unlinking it then oc your ram and cpu after you have gone as high as you want


----------



## donthaveacow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


this is the worst mobo to ever come out..i overclock my quad core 200mhz and bluescreens for eternity


yea so I get that all the time but I dont give a ****, have you worked on your voltages at all?


----------



## superk

I have my e6600 overclocked to 3.0 stable and with decently cool temps... could OC further but my CPU is a B2 and wont OC much past 3.4 anyways.

Either way, its a great board, not as easy to OC as my 780i but still. If its having a problem its one of two things, flaky hardware, old bios revisions, or user error. Apparantly quads wont get much past 3.0 on this board, but 2.8-2.9 should be fairly simple.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


ive tried alot with this board...ill try 1333fsb linked with the memory at auto i think and it will load up and everything just wont get past windows vista loadup...it wont even hit the bar were its trying to load just shuts off and reboots i have 4 gigs of hyper x 8500 and i got 2 extra gigs of hyper-x 9200 but i dont use it cause it would be a waist to place inside the system so i just let leave this system at 1066fsb with ram at 800mhz...ill take advise on what to do just post your opinions


To get mine to 3.0 I dropped my mem down to 667mhz so the memory wouldn't have any effect on the overclock. Then I took the fsb to 1333 at about 1.44v to start out and then slowly backed down to 1.36 where it's stable. After I got the OC on the CPU stable I then worked my ram back to 800mhz at 5-5-5-15 with 2.01v. Oh and I had to give the north bridge 1.56v in order to get my clocks stable.


----------



## zomgiwin

forgot to post what i have gotten with this board these days
and its on a new 45nm chip








anywho, my e8400 is 100% stable at 4005mhz








it seems if i go ANY further, it becomes a catastrophic failure
but 4+ghz is all i want.
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=450111


----------



## jchapman805

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xtascox* 
To get mine to 3.0 I dropped my mem down to 667mhz so the memory wouldn't have any effect on the overclock. Then I took the fsb to 1333 at about 1.44v to start out and then slowly backed down to 1.36 where it's stable. After I got the OC on the CPU stable I then worked my ram back to 800mhz at 5-5-5-15 with 2.01v. Oh and I had to give the north bridge 1.56v in order to get my clocks stable.

i cant do any of that i automatically get a blue screen just switching my settings to manual from auto in the cpu settings....seriously i tried everything u said then when i tried to load my computer under default i still got a blue screen, then when i change the cpu settings to auto it stopped..which bios version u got i have 901 u think i just update?


----------



## jchapman805

i dont under stand xtas for some reason i can start up my computer with 1333fsb with ram at 800 with your settings now with this new bios update but..it still wont let me into windows vista...i wont even get a blue screen it will just go black and restart my computer...wierd, the new bios helped with some glitches though


----------



## jchapman805

well what i did is just kept everything stock but setup my multiplier to 11 so i got it at 2.93ghz with 1066fsb, the best it can handle


----------



## floppydrivez

I had many of the same problems mentioned above. I can't tell you how familiar I am with my cmos battery lmao. Anyway, I finally found my sweet spot and maybe it will help others.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post4965852


----------



## jchapman805

nvm about those settings below i shut off my comp for the night and when i started it back i started getting the blue screens until i put everything back to normal....so like before ima bash on this board forever...DONT BUY THE 650I DONT BUY ASUS AT ALL JUST GO WITH GIGABYTE TILL THE END OF ETERNITY


----------



## mavizaman

can you give me link of list??

Quote:



Quote: UkGouki

corsair xms2 
geil black dragons 
kingston value select

theres more on the ASUS QVL list on there website xD


----------



## floppydrivez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jchapman805* 
nvm about those settings below i shut off my comp for the night and when i started it back i started getting the blue screens until i put everything back to normal....so like before ima bash on this board forever...DONT BUY THE 650I DONT BUY ASUS AT ALL JUST GO WITH GIGABYTE TILL THE END OF ETERNITY


The key for me was getting a 1:1 ratio. You should try that imo.


----------



## Gauvenator

hey jchapman805. This board is excellent for overclocking dual cores. The problem is that it can't handle quad cores much higher than 3ghz (if even that) because of the 4phase power on this mobo.

You will be better off getting a p45, which are very cheap (especially from gigabyte) and will oc quads well, especially with your unlocked multiplier. You could even get a p35 which is the same chip, just without official 1600fsb support.

No need to flame this mobo...it's only bad in your case because you did not research before you put in your quad.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mavizaman* 
can you give me link of list??

P5N-E support sheet just download the qvl its number 1 in the download list


----------



## rasa123

Hey everyone, I just started overclocking my e2180 on this board and can't get past 2.41GHz, which is not even a good overclock for this chip. The fsb in running at 965 MHz, which is the highest I can get it right now.I'm not sure what the problem is. Is it the bios version maybe? I had been using 608 until my bios got screwed and I flashed it, but apparently I flashed it to 307.I haven't touched the voltages or the ram yet because I've heard of people overclocking this thing to almost 3GHz on stock voltage. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


Hey everyone, I just started overclocking my e2180 on this board and can't get past 2.41GHz, which is not even a good overclock for this chip. The fsb in running at 965 MHz, which is the highest I can get it right now.I'm not sure what the problem is. Is it the bios version maybe? I had been using 608 until my bios got screwed and I flashed it, but apparently I flashed it to 307.I haven't touched the voltages or the ram yet because I've heard of people overclocking this thing to almost 3GHz on stock voltage. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance.


Sounds like the vcore needs to be bumped...although the earlier bios'es were kindof sketchy...I would flash it back to 0608 before more overclocking.


----------



## rasa123

Ok, I'll try that and hope that nothing goes wrong with the flashing because it was very hard to get right last time. :-(


----------



## jchapman805

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


hey jchapman805. This board is excellent for overclocking dual cores. The problem is that it can't handle quad cores much higher than 3ghz (if even that) because of the 4phase power on this mobo.

You will be better off getting a p45, which are very cheap (especially from gigabyte) and will oc quads well, especially with your unlocked multiplier. You could even get a p35 which is the same chip, just without official 1600fsb support.

No need to flame this mobo...it's only bad in your case because you did not research before you put in your quad.


well i had an e6600 in here and it overclocked it perfectly, so i give it a 4 out of 5 stars for dual cores but for quad cores i give it 1 out of 5 stars...just cause it works..i had gotten the quad extreme for free so i just used it and ebay
d the e6600 this board is not the best. but it fits lol. and ya ima save for that p45 gigabyte mobo with the ultra durable shiat fa show im get'n dat fa show


----------



## Derp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


and ya ima save for that p45 gigabyte mobo with the ultra durable shiat fa show im get'n dat fa show


 Wow.... do you talk like that?


----------



## quakermaas

Any body with the 0608 bios having video playback lock ups with XP sp3 ?

This seems to have only started the last few months, around the time I installed sp3, for a year before that on sp2 and 0608 bios I had no problems at all.

I have been having problem with power dvd, media player 11, media player classic and VLC, after about 20 to 30 minutes screen just freezes , only way out of it is to reset.

Now I have just flashed to the 1301 bios and watched a divx movie start to finish with power dvd and no problems









I will have to do more testing to know for sure, but for now it seems like an older bios (0608) + XP sp3 issue.


----------



## mavizaman

@UkGouki
no, i was looked that list
this list is old and no 2gb 800mhz ram in list.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mavizaman* 
@UkGouki
no, i was looked that list
this list is old and no 2gb 800mhz ram in list.

you go off the list for the venders that work it dont nessaraly have to be exact science i used xms2 dominators 800mhz and there not on the list they work perfect on the p5n-e

if it says corsair or geil etc all of there ddr2 models up to 800mhz will work etc..


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Any body with the 0608 bios having video playback lock ups with XP sp3 ?

This seems to have only started the last few months, around the time I installed sp3, for a year before that on sp2 and 0608 bios I had no problems at all.

I have been having problem with power dvd, media player 11, media player classic and VLC, after about 20 to 30 minutes screen just freezes , only way out of it is to reset.

Now I have just flashed to the 1301 bios and watched a divx movie start to finish with power dvd and no problems









I will have to do more testing to know for sure, but for now it seems like an older bios (0608) + XP sp3 issue.


huh...I used to have video lockups every now and then with the p5n-e sli...maybe it is related to the bios; i was using 0608 also.


----------



## jchapman805

Quote:


Originally Posted by *quakermaas* 
Any body with the 0608 bios having video playback lock ups with XP sp3 ?

This seems to have only started the last few months, around the time I installed sp3, for a year before that on sp2 and 0608 bios I had no problems at all.

I have been having problem with power dvd, media player 11, media player classic and VLC, after about 20 to 30 minutes screen just freezes , only way out of it is to reset.

Now I have just flashed to the 1301 bios and watched a divx movie start to finish with power dvd and no problems









I will have to do more testing to know for sure, but for now it seems like an older bios (0608) + XP sp3 issue.

you know what i had that same problem, do u have a soundblaster x-fi? i took it out and placed it back in and it didnt do it anymore i also updated bios and graphic drivers, for graphic drivers you should try tweakforce.com


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jchapman805*


you know what i had that same problem, do u have a soundblaster x-fi? i took it out and placed it back in and it didnt do it anymore i also updated bios and graphic drivers, for graphic drivers you should try tweakforce.com


I use onboard sound, but just watched another movie and it played perfect again with the 1301 bios, I could never do this with the 0608, only problem now is I cant over clock as high with the 1301 bios.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


I use onboard sound, but just watched another movie and it played perfect again with the 1301 bios, I could never do this with the 0608, only problem now is I cant over clock as high with the 1301 bios.


I am using a 0901 bios and so far not even one issue with it. Try 0901 I am quite sure its good.


----------



## jchapman805

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


I use onboard sound, but just watched another movie and it played perfect again with the 1301 bios, I could never do this with the 0608, only problem now is I cant over clock as high with the 1301 bios.


lol at least u can overclock...i rase my multiplyer by 1 and i get blue screens till i clear the bios


----------



## quakermaas

Just done the Vdroop pencil mod.

CPUZ: cpu voltage reading
before
1.408 idle 1.344 load
after
1.408 idle 1.376 load

Speedfan cpu voltage reading
before
1.33 idle 1.26 load
after
1.33 idle 1.30 load

So good improvement







and I found it easy to do, 20 minutes in total.
Computer was switched off when doing this.
I tested resistance and it was reading 130.1KiloOhm as it should have been before I done the pencil mod.
It took me a few goes to get it to 78 KiloOhm , if I went lower than 77 kiloOhm , I just rubbed it with my finger to remove some of the pencil mark and try again until I got it right.

Got the idea from here
http://www.overclock.net/4556709-post7828.html

+Rep for Gauvenator


----------



## SickStew

The best Overclocking BIOS for the P5N-E SLI

are

608
1001

You'll have to email asus to get BIOS 1001


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *quakermaas* 
Just done the Vdroop pencil mod.

CPUZ: cpu voltage reading
before
1.408 idle 1.344 load
after
1.408 idle 1.376 load

Speedfan cpu voltage reading
before
1.33 idle 1.26 load
after
1.33 idle 1.30 load

So good improvement







and I found it easy to do, 20 minutes in total.
Computer was switched off when doing this.
I tested resistance and it was reading 130.1KiloOhm as it should have been before I done the pencil mod.
It took me a few goes to get it to 78 KiloOhm , if I went lower than 77 kiloOhm , I just rubbed it with my finger to remove some of the pencil mark and try again until I got it right.

Got the idea from here
http://www.overclock.net/4556709-post7828.html

+Rep for Gauvenator

I'm pretty happy how mine came out too. I gave it a little more pencil and when I have the vcore set to 1.33 in the bios, it overvolts to 1.36 but under load it sits nicely at 1.33.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SickStew* 
The best Overclocking BIOS for the P5N-E SLI

are

608
1001

You'll have to email asus to get BIOS 1001


With the 0608 I started having video playback problems, but could reach 1920 fsb(1900 stable).Now with the 1301 I can only reach 1800(1780 stable), but this is not really a big problem.

I will see if I can get the 1001, why do I have to contact Asus, what will I tell them I need it for and will they give me the run around before they hand it over..lol


----------



## mavizaman

*1.*Which one choise you?
- Ocz Vista Upgrade 2gb 800mhz cl5
- A-Data 2gb 800mhz cl5
*2.*Are those rames compatible with p5n-e?

*ocz:*
1.8-2.0V'ta CL 5-6-6-18
Unbuffered
black XTC Isı yayıcı
240 Pin DIMM
OCZ2VU8002G

*A-data:*
KonfigÃ¼rasyon: 64M x 8
JEDEC standart: 1.8 +/- 0.1V gÃ¼Ã§ kaynağı
Bellek Yuvası: 240 iletkenli DIMM.
CAS Gecikmesi: 5 DÃ¶ngÃ¼.
Etkin Frekans: 800 MHz.
Veriyolu: 6.4 GB/sn.


----------



## striker_2k8

Hi, im really increadibly new to all this overclocking stuff, however i understand most of what you are saying. I know my system inside out because i but the thing together. The motherboard comes with AI tuning but i was told not to bother using it. i have had a fiddle with the voltages and timings before but has often ended in the stystem crashing.(oh if anyone is reading this and this has happened then just pop out your cmos battery and it should be fine on reboot.) This is what i have: (my pride and joy







)

Intel core 2quad q6600 @ 2.4GHz (4cpu's)-*2.4GHz
OS: windows vista home premium (6.0. build 6001)
BIOS: phoenix-awardBios v6.00pg
Graphics: 2X BFG Tech Geforce 8800 GT 512 (SLI)
RAM: 3 gig ddr2 800Mhz ( i can find out the timings for those)

Any help on what i can do with all this would be much appreciated, I will have a go at what you suggested but anythin else you notice would be a great help.

Thanks


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mavizaman*


*1.*Which one choise you?
- Ocz Vista Upgrade 2gb 800mhz cl5
- A-Data 2gb 800mhz cl5
*2.*Are those rames compatible with p5n-e?

*ocz:*
1.8-2.0V'ta CL 5-6-6-18 
Unbuffered 
black XTC Isı yayıcı 
240 Pin DIMM 
OCZ2VU8002G

*A-data: *
KonfigÃ¼rasyon: 64M x 8 
JEDEC standart: 1.8 +/- 0.1V gÃ¼Ã§ kaynağı 
Bellek Yuvası: 240 iletkenli DIMM. 
CAS Gecikmesi: 5 DÃ¶ngÃ¼. 
Etkin Frekans: 800 MHz. 
Veriyolu: 6.4 GB/sn.


I use these with no problems and very happy with them
http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...l3_edition-eol

on another note, I had to video playback lock ups this morning with the 1301 bios, so I dont think the bios has anything to do with this problem, trying the latest K-Lite codec pack now to see if that helps.


----------



## mavizaman

yes i know it.. 
really good ram but expensive for me








most probably i will buy xms2..


----------



## floppydrivez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


I use onboard sound, but just watched another movie and it played perfect again with the 1301 bios, I could never do this with the 0608, only problem now is I cant over clock as high with the 1301 bios.


I have 0608 and when I try play steaming media like from hulu.com I get pauses. Very strange thing.


----------



## mavizaman

@floopy
whats your memory brand?

edit:
Can i buy 1066mhz ddr2 memory to use?

for exp:*OCZ PLATIUM SLI 2 GB 1066 MHz CL5 DDR2 Kit (2x1GB) - OCZ2N10662GK* 
http://www.hepsiburada.com/ocz-plati...ductid=bd72713

for exp:*MUSHKIN High Performance 2GB 1066MHz DDR2 Dual Kit (2x1GB) 996578*
http://www.sanalmarketim.com/urun/38...(2x1GB)-996578


----------



## Blizzie

Anyone here tried BIOS 1301? Is there still no BIOS versions better than 0608? I mean... ASUS has released like 6 new ones after 0608 -- surely the new ones have to be better at one point..


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Anyone here tried BIOS 1301? Is there still no BIOS versions better than 0608? I mean... ASUS has released like 6 new ones after 0608 -- surely the new ones have to be better at one point..


I am using 0901 and its pretty good. Overall what they do in those updates just fixes some ram module issues. Will have to email asus about that 1001.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DraganUS* 
I am using 0901 and its pretty good. Overall what they do in those updates just fixes some ram module issues. Will have to email asus about that 1001.

Please share with us if you get it.


----------



## jared701

I just found this thread so have not read through all 800 pages... I just tried installing 4 gigs of memory on this board which it claims it can handle but it keeps freezing up during boot before it reaches the OS. I'm wondering if updating my bios may solve this issue or can this board actually not handle having ram in all 4 slots? I don't know what bios version I'm running other than it's really old.
Edit - I am using a 4 gig ram sets from gskill 1000 mhz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jared701*


I just found this thread so have not read through all 800 pages... I just tried installing 4 gigs of memory on this board which it claims it can handle but it keeps freezing up during boot before it reaches the OS. I'm wondering if updating my bios may solve this issue or can this board actually not handle having ram in all 4 slots? I don't know what bios version I'm running other than it's really old.
Edit - I am using a 4 gig ram sets from gskill 1000 mhz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145


Did you go in the BIOS to set the voltage/timings/speed for the RAM?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jared701* 
I just found this thread so have not read through all 800 pages... I just tried installing 4 gigs of memory on this board which it claims it can handle but it keeps freezing up during boot before it reaches the OS. I'm wondering if updating my bios may solve this issue or can this board actually not handle having ram in all 4 slots? I don't know what bios version I'm running other than it's really old.
Edit - I am using a 4 gig ram sets from gskill 1000 mhz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145

You may not be able to run at 1000mhz with this board. Try 800 with the stock timings and stock voltage (2.1v i believe). Also set the nb voltage to the 1.39v setting, because the northbridge might need a boost to handle 4 sticks.


----------



## jared701

I set the timings/voltage/speed and have the speed at 800. I'll try upping the northbridge voltage and see if that helps. The only thing I can think if that doesn't work is updating the bios. It works fine with just 2 sticks of the ram in with the same settings and the motherboard does see all 8 gigs and will sometimes let me get into the bios.


----------



## AgentJadeD

ive had no problems with mine running 4GB. but mine are running at 800


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jared701*


I set the timings/voltage/speed and have the speed at 800. I'll try upping the northbridge voltage and see if that helps. The only thing I can think if that doesn't work is updating the bios. It works fine with just 2 sticks of the ram in with the same settings and the motherboard does see all 8 gigs and will sometimes let me get into the bios.


Hm. Worth a try updating BIOS.. But do it with 1 stick or so. Make sure it's STABLE as you flash.


----------



## TheDark

I just pushed my E8500 from 3.16 to 3.7 in about 10 minutes on this board. I like its bios. It's very easy to manage, it's pretty powerful to, for the price.


----------



## gtz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jared701* 
I just found this thread so have not read through all 800 pages... I just tried installing 4 gigs of memory on this board which it claims it can handle but it keeps freezing up during boot before it reaches the OS. I'm wondering if updating my bios may solve this issue or can this board actually not handle having ram in all 4 slots? I don't know what bios version I'm running other than it's really old.
Edit - I am using a 4 gig ram sets from gskill 1000 mhz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231145

Man I am having the same problem with the same ram. Here is a thread I started asking for help.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-memor...ying-nice.html

I tried every single thing and nothing. I am able to get to the os but it is just unstable.

Is somebody running this ram succesfully on this motherboard?


----------



## mavizaman

what is your idea about ocz 1066 platinum cl5 2x1gb kit OCZ2N10662GK ?
is this kit compatible with p5n-e?


----------



## Aardobard

Hi folks! I'm still cutting my teeth with overclocking, but I managed to get my e7200 up to 3.44 GHz (1450 FSB) by leaving everything else on auto. When I pushed it to 3.56 GHz (!500 FSB) it became unstable and I was able to get good stability by upping the vCore to 1.2v.

Anything over a 1520 FSB will not post. I read that there can be a dead spot in the FSB, so I've tried settings between 1530 and 1750 and I get no response. I have manipulated the vCore in increments to 1.3625v, I have upped the NB voltage to the 1.2xx, 1.5xx and 1.7xx voltage settings. I have lowered my multiplier (with n/2 disabled) and still hit that wall.

The 800MHz RAM set to unlinked. Bios is 0901. I run about 32C at idle and 48C at load.

Am I missing something in getting past this barrier or have I maxxed out? Any thoughts will be appreciated.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
The 800MHz RAM set to unlinked.

You're maxing out because you're leaving everything on auto and leaving the memory unlinked. You need to have a good FSB:RAM ratio before your overclock will work. Unlinked means you'll have a poor ratio half the time, and all of the time it'll be very unstable. I had my FSB at 1700 *mostly* stable for quite a while.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


You're maxing out because you're leaving everything on auto and leaving the memory unlinked. You need to have a good FSB:RAM ratio before your overclock will work. Unlinked means you'll have a poor ratio half the time, and all of the time it'll be very unstable. I had my FSB at 1700 *mostly* stable for quite a while.


Thanks for the response. I followed your advice, starting at stock (1066 FSB). I linked the RAM and got it to boot, inching the FSB up to almost 1400 before it failed to post.

On a lark, I also synch-ed the RAM and it booted at 1066 FSB. When I checked CPU-Z, The memory frequency was 533MHz and the ratio was 2:1. I'm not sure why. It makes sense to me that it would fail to boot/post if the settings were outside operating parameters. I'm not sure where the 'user override' setting is.

Does any of that make sense?


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
Thanks for the response. I followed your advice, starting at stock (1066 FSB). I linked the RAM and got it to boot, inching the FSB up to almost 1400 before it failed to post.

On a lark, I also synch-ed the RAM and it booted at 1066 FSB. When I checked CPU-Z, The memory frequency was 533MHz and the ratio was 2:1. I'm not sure why. It makes sense to me that it would fail to boot/post if the settings were outside operating parameters. I'm not sure where the 'user override' setting is.

Does any of that make sense?

Yes, that makes sense. Okay, I should have specified earlier when I said to sync the memory and FSB... you may use the motherboard options, but leaving it unlinked and finding your own numbers works as well. FSB is quad-pumped, which means it's 1066 / 4. That makes it 266.5 mhz before the quad pump. You memory is DDR2 which means it is bi-pumped, so to speak. This means your 533mhz memory is actually 266.5 mhz. So, if you are running a 1066mhz FSB, and 533mhz memory, you are running a 1:1 ratio. Make sense?

The trick is to screw with the settings and find other 1:1 ratios if possible. The lower the ratio numbers, the better. 2:1 is a good ratio, while 15:16 is a horrible ratio (although it is stable for some people I think? Weird). So, you simply need to find a good ratio. Your CPU makes a difference as well. If you are pumping up the FSB too high, you may need to lower your CPU multiplier, and you are almost always going to need to increase the voltage. Your CPU runs at 8-9x your FSB (actually I don't know what the number is for your CPU). Lowering that multiplier allows you to get a higher FSB while retaining realistic CPU speeds. I had my mobo up to a 425x4 FSB (1700mhz) but my CPU, at a x9 multiplier, was over 3.8ghz. There is no way in heck I was going to try to put that much voltage through my CPU, so I decreased my multiplier to 8, which made it a 3.4ghz CPU speed.

Anyways, I am assuming you don't know anything about this... need any more help just ask. I am pretty new to this as well.









Awesome


----------



## Aardobard

Awesome, thanks for all your help. It's perfectly ok to use small words with lots of vowels when talking to me.









I think I may have determined the problem. I have been assuming that my 800MHz PC6400 will *actually* operate at those speeds. Call me crazy, but the DRAM frequency as reported by CPU-Z fluctuates between ~350 MHz and 533MHz as the ratio is (automatically) altered.

I have not found a single FSBx4 that CPU-Z will report a DRAM frequency above 533, regardless of my setting for linking it and assigning a ratio.

Could it be that simple: bad/mislabeled RAM? Is there a way to get better info about the RAM to compare with it's specs?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
Awesome, thanks for all your help. It's perfectly ok to use small words with lots of vowels when talking to me.









I think I may have determined the problem. I have been assuming that my 800MHz PC6400 will *actually* operate at those speeds. Call me crazy, but the DRAM frequency as reported by CPU-Z fluctuates between ~350 MHz and 533MHz as the ratio is (automatically) altered.

I have not found a single FSBx4 that CPU-Z will report a DRAM frequency above 533, regardless of my setting for linking it and assigning a ratio.

Could it be that simple: bad/mislabeled RAM? Is there a way to get better info about the RAM to compare with it's specs?

hey man I just realized something that might be holding you back. You said you speed fluctuates; go into the bios and disable c1e and eist. That will stop the voltage and speed from changing, and should help with a higher oc.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
Awesome, thanks for all your help. It's perfectly ok to use small words with lots of vowels when talking to me.









I think I may have determined the problem. I have been assuming that my 800MHz PC6400 will *actually* operate at those speeds. Call me crazy, but the DRAM frequency as reported by CPU-Z fluctuates between ~350 MHz and 533MHz as the ratio is (automatically) altered.

I have not found a single FSBx4 that CPU-Z will report a DRAM frequency above 533, regardless of my setting for linking it and assigning a ratio.

Could it be that simple: bad/mislabeled RAM? Is there a way to get better info about the RAM to compare with it's specs?

Uhh... dude... CPU-Z gives you the BASE speed of the RAM, before the bi-pump. Your ram speed, if CPU-Z is giving you 533, is actually 1066. That is a HUGE overclock on your memory and is why you are failing to post.


----------



## xtascox

Just out of curiosity...

The limitation of only getting our Q6600's to 3ghz is due to this board only having 4 phase power correct?

With that said, is there any possible way (concrete or theoretical) that we can attempt on this board to get a few more mhz out of our quads?

I know others have made countless attempts but I just feel like there's something that we are missing...


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


Hi folks! I'm still cutting my teeth with overclocking, but I managed to get my e7200 up to 3.44 GHz (1450 FSB) by leaving everything else on auto. When I pushed it to 3.56 GHz (!500 FSB) it became unstable and I was able to get good stability by upping the vCore to 1.2v.

Anything over a 1520 FSB will not post. I read that there can be a dead spot in the FSB, so I've tried settings between 1530 and 1750 and I get no response. I have manipulated the vCore in increments to 1.3625v, I have upped the NB voltage to the 1.2xx, 1.5xx and 1.7xx voltage settings. I have lowered my multiplier (with n/2 disabled) and still hit that wall.

The 800MHz RAM set to unlinked. Bios is 0901. I run about 32C at idle and 48C at load.

Am I missing something in getting past this barrier or have I maxxed out? Any thoughts will be appreciated.


Dont give the NB 1.7x volts







, unless you have very good cooling on it and even then I think it is to much and the chip will not take it, plus i dont think it needs that much, I can get to 1900(475)fsb with no problems at 1.5x volts on the NB


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


hey man I just realized something that might be holding you back. You said you speed fluctuates; go into the bios and disable c1e and eist. That will stop the voltage and speed from changing, and should help with a higher oc.


Thanks for the tip. I'll double check that those are disabled. Just to clarify, the speed doesn't flucuate during a session, but that is the range that I've seen it in from one session to another.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
Uhh... dude... CPU-Z gives you the BASE speed of the RAM, before the bi-pump. Your ram speed, if CPU-Z is giving you 533, is actually 1066. That is a HUGE overclock on your memory and is why you are failing to post.

Oh, wow... That's good to know. I'm not sure where I missed that little gem









So now it's a matter of figuring out where the 'good' ratios are. I still haven't gotten it to 1:1. But I'll keep at it. Thanks for walking a noob thru some basics.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
Oh, wow... That's good to know. I'm not sure where I missed that little gem









So now it's a matter of figuring out where the 'good' ratios are. I still haven't gotten it to 1:1. But I'll keep at it. Thanks for walking a noob thru some basics.









NP... I had to figure most of that out by trial and error so I try to be helpful.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


Just out of curiosity...

The limitation of only getting our Q6600's to 3ghz is due to this board only having 4 phase power correct?

With that said, is there any possible way (concrete or theoretical) that we can attempt on this board to get a few more mhz out of our quads?

I know others have made countless attempts but I just feel like there's something that we are missing...


yep its the 4 phase power...no one's really figured out a way to get substantially higher oc's that i know of with quads on this board...


----------



## Ealae

How are the latest BIOS for this motherboard? I was thinking of updating from my current 0608, because I can't get past an FSB of 350MHz. And I'm also having some trouble with having four sticks of RAM installed. It works fine with two.


----------



## TheDark

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ealae* 
How are the latest BIOS for this motherboard? I was thinking of updating from my current 0608, because I can't get past an FSB of 350MHz. And I'm also having some trouble with having four sticks of RAM installed. It works fine with two.

I have the latest, they're awesome. Check my system info for the version I'm using. I got my FSB up to 400 without any problems.


----------



## AgentJadeD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Awesome* 
NP... I had to figure most of that out by trial and error so I try to be helpful.










i find it best to just have the ram unlinked from the cpu instead of sync and using ratios.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *quakermaas* 
Dont give the NB 1.7x volts







, unless you have very good cooling on it and even then I think it is to much and the chip will not take it, plus i dont think it needs that much, I can get to 1900(475)fsb with no problems at 1.5x volts on the NB

I agree, and I do have an actively cooled thermalright HR-05 on my NB. I was trying to see if it would post. At least then I would know what the problem was and that I was stuck, because 1.7 is too much to run without more drastic measures. =)

It's good to know about the 1.5x and your really awesome FSB. Great work!


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ealae*


How are the latest BIOS for this motherboard? I was thinking of updating from my current 0608, because I can't get past an FSB of 350MHz. And I'm also having some trouble with having four sticks of RAM installed. It works fine with two.


Please let us know what you experience if you decide to upgrade the bios. I'm having trouble in the same FSB range as you.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


Please let us know what you experience if you decide to upgrade the bios. I'm having trouble in the same FSB range as you.


What bios are u using?

Get 0901 or email asus for 1001 bios version. Those two work best


----------



## Ealae

Sigh....updated BIOS to 1301, but still no go on the 4 sticks of RAM. I'll memtest the new set of RAM I just bought, to see if it's the RAM or the motherboard.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


Please let us know what you experience if you decide to upgrade the bios. I'm having trouble in the same FSB range as you.


As for overclocking. I couldn't get it to boot at 400 range with these settings:
Vcore - 1.425v
NB - 1.56v
FSB - 1600
Mem - 800
...but I did get it to boot at 375, and I will stress it tonight.


----------



## AgentJadeD

up the cpu voltage.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ealae*


Sigh....updated BIOS to 1301, but still no go on the 4 sticks of RAM. I'll memtest the new set of RAM I just bought, to see if it's the RAM or the motherboard.

As for overclocking. I couldn't get it to boot at 400 range with these settings:
Vcore - 1.425v
NB - 1.56v
FSB - 1600
Mem - 800
...but I did get it to boot at 375, and I will stress it tonight.


I think the upper end for volts on that chip is ~1.5v so you may have some room there. How are your temps when you stress it at 375?

When I bought this board, I saw a lot of discussion on the Anandtech P5N-E SLI (mostly dead now) forum about 4 sticks not working on this mobo. I don't think I've seen anything confirming that 4 sticks can work and what you have to do to make it happen.

GL with the stress! May she hold steady and cool.


----------



## AgentJadeD

I haven't had any issues with 4x1GB sticks of OCZ DDR2-800 6400 Platinum Rev.2 4-4-4-15. The only time i did have any problems was installing XP Pro x86 SP2 gave me a BSOD saying that the OS will not support 4GB


----------



## Ealae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
I think the upper end for volts on that chip is ~1.5v so you may have some room there. How are your temps when you stress it at 375?

When I bought this board, I saw a lot of discussion on the Anandtech P5N-E SLI (mostly dead now) forum about 4 sticks not working on this mobo. I don't think I've seen anything confirming that 4 sticks can work and what you have to do to make it happen.

GL with the stress! May she hold steady and cool.









I'll try 1.45v today, and see what happens. I'm a little hesitant on putting it in the 1.5 range. A little high for daily use.

*edit*
I went up to 1.475v and it's not stable, but my stress temps top out at 50-52C. I guess I'll give it 1.5 for the sake of reaching 400, hopefully. If not, then I am content with the FSB at 350, since that is the only place this motherboard seems to be happy. I've even had it freeze at stock alot of times, but I've never had a problem with 350.

*edit2*
I tried 1.5v but it still would not boot. It doesn't even show the POST screen. I guess my goal of 400 is shot with this motherboard. Unless it's the BIOS. Someone said 0901 is the best. I'll try that some other time.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD* 
I haven't had any issues with 4x1GB sticks of OCZ DDR2-800 6400 Platinum Rev.2 4-4-4-15. The only time i did have any problems was installing XP Pro x86 SP2 gave me a BSOD saying that the OS will not support 4GB

It could be the brand of RAM. I was checking the Qualified Vendor List, and they don't list my particular specs. I don't see OCZ either. Lucky you.

Is it weird that CPU-Z is reporting 1.55, even though I set the vcore at 1.475-1.5?

Thanks to whoever gave me a rep in this thread.


----------



## Awesome

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ealae*


Is it weird that CPU-Z is reporting 1.55, even though I set the vcore at 1.475-1.5?

Thanks to whoever gave me a rep in this thread.


 For Voltages you need to be using the PC Probe utility Asus supplied with the board. CPU Z is not God.


----------



## jbobb

I have a question on CPU's. I am planning on getting a new one and can't decide between a q6600 or e8400. I use my PC mainly for gaming and just basic programs.

I know the q6600 will not overclock that well on this board, but will it be more future proof. I still runs faster than my e6420 @ stock speeds. The e8400 is a monster overclocker though.

1) Will the q6600 perform better when more games start to utilize all 4 cores compared to the e8400 with its 2 cores? (comparing both @ stock speeds)

2) If I go quad, will a 45nm quad oc better than a 65nm quad on this board or do all quads not oc that well? (compaing q8200 and q6600)

What do you think will be better. I have seen arguments for both on other threads and they say for gaming the e8400 is better, but what about when games start to utilize all 4cores more efficiently?

Thanks for the input


----------



## UkGouki

this board has some issues with 45nm quads the 8400 would be a better choice if you want to game and overclock on this board i had my quad @ 3.0ghz couldnt get any higher :-/

really its personal choice if you want to keep it stock then the q6600 would be good and future proof unless you change motherboards imo


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbobb* 
I have a question on CPU's. I am planning on getting a new one and can't decide between a q6600 or e8400. I use my PC mainly for gaming and just basic programs.

I know the q6600 will not overclock that well on this board, but will it be more future proof. I still runs faster than my e6420 @ stock speeds. The e8400 is a monster overclocker though.

1) Will the q6600 perform better when more games start to utilize all 4 cores compared to the e8400 with its 2 cores? (comparing both @ stock speeds)

2) If I go quad, will a 45nm quad oc better than a 65nm quad on this board or do all quads not oc that well? (compaing q8200 and q6600)

What do you think will be better. I have seen arguments for both on other threads and they say for gaming the e8400 is better, but what about when games start to utilize all 4cores more efficiently?

Thanks for the input

At this point in time 4 cores are not really necessary, especially if you only game and do basic computing tasks. I would go for the dual core, because the low 3ghz range imxp is excellent for gaming.

However, if you are into audio and video encoding or 3d rendering, then a quad will be much more beneficial, and high 2ghz range is fine for gaming.

And yes this board has the same problems with 45nm quads iirc.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jbobb* 
I have a question on CPU's. I am planning on getting a new one and can't decide between a q6600 or e8400. I use my PC mainly for gaming and just basic programs.

I know the q6600 will not overclock that well on this board, but will it be more future proof. I still runs faster than my e6420 @ stock speeds. The e8400 is a monster overclocker though.

1) Will the q6600 perform better when more games start to utilize all 4 cores compared to the e8400 with its 2 cores? (comparing both @ stock speeds)

2) If I go quad, will a 45nm quad oc better than a 65nm quad on this board or do all quads not oc that well? (compaing q8200 and q6600)

What do you think will be better. I have seen arguments for both on other threads and they say for gaming the e8400 is better, but what about when games start to utilize all 4cores more efficiently?

Thanks for the input

Honestly, go for the Q6600. You won't be disappointed









1.) Yes
2.) This board is not great for overclocking quads so save some money and get the Q6600. In general you would want a 45nm because they use less power and put off less heat but in this case you are not going to get a Q6600 above 3.0 on this board.


----------



## Aardobard

I've been very frustrated knowing that this board would OC my e7200 above 3.5GHz, and not being able to get past it.







:

And then last night, it was like a tiny little miracle. I flashed the bios to 1002 and *whammo* 3.8GHz.








Thanks for sharing this moment with me!


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


I've been very frustrated knowing that this board would OC my e7200 above 3.5GHz, and not being able to get past it.







:

And then last night, it was like a tiny little miracle. I flashed the bios to 1002 and *whammo* 3.8GHz.








Thanks for sharing this moment with me!










Awesome!

Could you share with us the 1002 BIOS? I hear you have to get it directly from ASUS.
Also, what BIOS were you using before?


----------



## AgentJadeD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gauvenator*


At this point in time 4 cores are not really necessary, especially if you only game and do basic computing tasks. I would go for the dual core, because the low 3ghz range imxp is excellent for gaming.

However, if you are into audio and video encoding or 3d rendering, then a quad will be much more beneficial, and high 2ghz range is fine for gaming.

And yes this board has the same problems with 45nm quads iirc.


the Q6600 is 65nm.

I've decided on getting a Q6600 on boxing day. It was that or a E8400.


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


the Q6600 is 65nm.

I've decided on getting a Q6600 on boxing day. It was that or a E8400.


yep i was just anwering the question about 45nm quads

q6600 is a nice proc..4 cores will probably pay off for you


----------



## Aardobard

I got the bios from either:
ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/mb/so...5/P5N-E%20SLI/
or
ftp://ftp.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket775/P5N-E%20SLI/

I was using 0901 previously, until I discovered that ASUS recommends bios 1001 for my CPU (lost the link). 1002 was the closest I could get









After that it was like no problem to OC up to 400(x4). Just be very deliberate when you bios flash that you follow the directions and eliminate as many potential problems as possible.

GL!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blizzie* 
Awesome!

Could you share with us the 1002 BIOS? I hear you have to get it directly from ASUS.
Also, what BIOS were you using before?


----------



## DraganUS

Whos got 1203 bios?


----------



## MartijnA3

Hi, my name is Martijn and I'm from the Netherlands and totally new to overclocking. Google brought me here.









My setup:

Asus P5N-e
Core2Duo E8400 3Ghz
OCZ OCZ2G8004GK,4096MB, 800MHz, 2x, DDR2, PC6400
ASUS EN9800GT HYBRIDPOWER 512 MB
Chieftec 500w power supply

I have tried to let the bios automaticly overclock my computer, but didn't see much performance improvement. It became unstable at 20% overclock.

I have a stock cooling fan on the CPU, should I replace this before even try to overclock?

What memory settings should I use?

Thanks for any tips!


----------



## Royaltramp

Added 4GB DDR2 800Mhz Corsair XMS2 C4DHX RAM. It runs fine. On boot CPU-Z and Everest tell me I have latencies of 5-5-5-18 (or 4-4-4-12 when I set them in the BIOS), but after about 5-10 minutes the last three settings change to 5-5-31. So 5-5-5-31 in the case of default settings and 4-5-5-31 if I've changed them.

Is this the RAM issue mentioned on the first page and would a BIOS update solve this? Because I bought this RAM for it's low 4-4-4-12 latencies and was hoping to actually be able to use them heh.

-Matt


----------



## Zippit

How would one go and enter the timings for this RAM?

And every time I change my FSB over 1600 (400) my ram get downclocked in the gray area. Any fix for this? I would really love to go over 3.6ghz and keep my ram speed at 800.

Also is this good ram overall?


----------



## DraganUS

I suggest u go ahead and by some 1066 ram. Set in ur FSB area in Bios unlinked and move ram 1/2 of ur fsb. 
Did u check ur ram with memtest? 
I suggest u to put some cooling to blow air to ram, because they will got hot and maybe fail in prime or any other test.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DraganUS*


I suggest u go ahead and by some 1066 ram. Set in ur FSB area in Bios unlinked and move ram 1/2 of ur fsb. 
Did u check ur ram with memtest? 
I suggest u to put some cooling to blow air to ram, because they will got hot and maybe fail in prime or any other test.


Currently my PC is borked... probably will be for the next few days.

I already have the ram for about 1/2 year.

Im running a stable 3.6 for about the same time I got the ram. But now I want to max out my PC to its absolute limits.

I also tried changing the rams speed. but the "actual speed" (the gray area in the FSB and RAM settings menu) shows 750.1. (If I remember correctly)

I tried multiple BIOSs but no avail.

And about the timeings.... in what order do I fill them in... when I get in the menu all I see is tRC (if I recall correctly) and so on + advanced settings.

Thanks for all the help in advanced.









PS: The mobo supports up to 800Mhz RAM


----------



## Aardobard

Auto overclocking on this board isn't so good IMHO. However, it's pretty strong when you do it manually.

1.Unlink your Memory (but leave it on auto)
2. Ease the FSB up in increments of 50
3. See how far you get before you start crashing.
3a. While you are doing this, mind your temps. Get RealTemp and run Orthos or something like it to get your load temps.

Anandtech.com has a great primer for OCing this board, but the thread has died out. (look on page 92).

You will eventually want to get a better HSF to keep the sprinklers in check. In my sig there is a guide f you have questions about those.

GL!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MartijnA3*


Hi, my name is Martijn and I'm from the Netherlands and totally new to overclocking. Google brought me here.









My setup:

Asus P5N-e
Core2Duo E8400 3Ghz
OCZ OCZ2G8004GK,4096MB, 800MHz, 2x, DDR2, PC6400
ASUS EN9800GT HYBRIDPOWER 512 MB
Chieftec 500w power supply

I have tried to let the bios automaticly overclock my computer, but didn't see much performance improvement. It became unstable at 20% overclock.

I have a stock cooling fan on the CPU, should I replace this before even try to overclock?

What memory settings should I use?

Thanks for any tips!


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


PS: The mobo supports up to 800Mhz RAM


If this is true than my computer is not working. I am running 1066 Dominators.


----------



## Zippit

Click

It says so.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


PS: The mobo supports up to 800Mhz RAM


You guys are both right. You can use RAM faster than 800 MHz in this board, or most any mobo for that matter. You do have to OC your 'memory bus' if you want to go over 800MHz. That's how it seems to me, anyway.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Wanted to let all of you I've been reading this thread for months, and was able to use alot of your advice to get my machine moving in the right direction. Thanks everyone!

I just moved my current rig into an Antec Nine Hundred case for more room and better cooling, and with stock cooling I pushed my E6750 to 3.2ghz, leaving my memory stock.. thats as far as I want to go until I get a south and north bridge cooler, and cooler on my cpu..

3 quick questions/concerns I have for the crew here:
*Any thoughts on a zalman 9500 vs a Zalman Fatal1ty for cpu cooling? (or other recommendations)*
*What about a Thermaltake CL-C0034 or a ZALMAN ZM-NB47J for NB?*
lastly,*HR-05 for south ( I have a single 8600gts, and sli isnt on my radar for a while) or just a lower profile one as the SB doesnt get real hot*

thanks in advance!


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
You guys are both right. You can use RAM faster than 800 MHz in this board, or most any mobo for that matter. You do have to OC your 'memory bus' if you want to go over 800MHz. That's how it seems to me, anyway.

But that means the NB will get hotter right?


----------



## Gauvenator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


Wanted to let all of you I've been reading this thread for months, and was able to use alot of your advice to get my machine moving in the right direction. Thanks everyone!

I just moved my current rig into an Antec Nine Hundred case for more room and better cooling, and with stock cooling I pushed my E6750 to 3.2ghz, leaving my memory stock.. thats as far as I want to go until I get a south and north bridge cooler, and cooler on my cpu..

3 quick questions/concerns I have for the crew here:
*Any thoughts on a zalman 9500 vs a Zalman Fatal1ty for cpu cooling? (or other recommendations)*
*What about a Thermaltake CL-C0034 or a ZALMAN ZM-NB47J for NB?*
lastly,*HR-05 for south ( I have a single 8600gts, and sli isnt on my radar for a while) or just a lower profile one as the SB doesnt get real hot*

thanks in advance!


When i was using the p5n-e i used a coolermaster blueice heastsink on the southbridge, and an hr-05 with a fan on the northbridge. As for the cpu cooler I recommend one of the Xigmatek 120mm coolers.


----------



## Royaltramp

Alright, an update on my situation. I spent all of today trying to get my latencies working, with no luck. I even flashed my BIOS to the latest version on the Asus site, still no luck.

But eventually I found the culprit. nTune. I remembered that nTune runs in the background and was always resetting my graphics card clocks back when I'd tried to use it for overclocking, so I thought it might be doing a similar thing. Since installing nTune I've been running at 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1V for the last hour with no problems.

It is interesting how all the threads I find through google relating to latencies of 5-5-5-31 all relate to the P5N-E though, so I'm guessing that it's an incompatibility between nTune and this motherboard.

Hope this helps anyone else experiencing the problem that I had.

-Matt


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royaltramp* 
But eventually I found the culprit. nTune. I remembered that nTune runs in the background and was always resetting my graphics card clocks back when I'd tried to use it for overclocking, so I thought it might be doing a similar thing. Since installing nTune I've been running at 4-4-4-12 @ 2.1V for the last hour with no problems.

did you mean that you used ntune to OC your system, or just your gpu?? figured just the gpu.. have you found a way to keep ntune from going back to default on your gpu clocks? mine seams to set back to default for some reason.

good to hear you got it going


----------



## Bryan 702

I been looking at over 50 pages of this thread and still havent understood or figured out how to overclock my computer here are my specs
OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 / 1066MHz / NVIDIAÂ® SLI™-Ready Edition
Asus p5ne sli 650i
500gb seagate sata hard drive
nvidia geforce 8800 gts 328mb
Intel core 2 quad q6600
Tuniq Tower 120 Universal CPU Cooler 120mm Cooling Fan and Fan Controller/Heatsink - Retail
and my bios version is BIOS revision 1101 any tips on what to download or what do i change my fsb or vcore at if u can halp plz n thanx.


----------



## donthaveacow

hey anyone know how to set the pci-e lanes to 8x instead of 16x I wanna do it to test if a 9800GTX+ bottlenecks at 8x. and also can anybody tell me whether this is a pci-e 1.0or 1.1 slot as i am currently away form my computer and ill want to setup when i get home.

all help is appreciated


----------



## africandavid

Hi, i just installed 64-bit vista, it seems my wireless nic is set to 802.11b for some reason and not 802.11g, can someone give some advice on how to change this? I have a trendnet tew-443pi 108mbps nic. I though it could be a driver problem, the trendnet site however does not provide vista 64-bit drivers. The chip used in the card is an atheros chip and I know that atheros does support vista 64-bit, i just cant seem to find the drivers for this chip.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bryan 702* 
I been looking at over 50 pages of this thread and still havent understood or figured out how to overclock my computer here are my specs
OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 / 1066MHz / NVIDIAÂ® SLI™-Ready Edition
Asus p5ne sli 650i
500gb seagate sata hard drive
nvidia geforce 8800 gts 328mb
Intel core 2 quad q6600
Tuniq Tower 120 Universal CPU Cooler 120mm Cooling Fan and Fan Controller/Heatsink - Retail
and my bios version is BIOS revision 1101 any tips on what to download or what do i change my fsb or vcore at if u can halp plz n thanx.

hmm must read more!!! someone will come along who has had success with a quad..

mainly its about choosing unlinked in your bios, and manually setting the fsb for the chip and the memory, in a 1:1 config (ie, if your memory is rated at 800mhz, then a 1:1 would have your fsb on your chip at 1600.)

because the fsb on the chip is quad pumped (Mine is 1333, but really its 1333/4=333.3, and fsb on memory is dual, so 800mhz is really 400... so the key is to get those 2 numbers (the 333.3 and 400) to match.. but again, this is what I did for my E6750 ( went from 2.66 to 3.2 on stock cooling) your results will vary with your quad..

hope that helps a bit


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bryan 702* 
I been looking at over 50 pages of this thread and still havent understood or figured out how to overclock my computer here are my specs
OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 / 1066MHz / NVIDIAÂ® SLIâ„¢-Ready Edition
Asus p5ne sli 650i
500gb seagate sata hard drive
nvidia geforce 8800 gts 328mb
Intel core 2 quad q6600
Tuniq Tower 120 Universal CPU Cooler 120mm Cooling Fan and Fan Controller/Heatsink - Retail
and my bios version is BIOS revision 1101 any tips on what to download or what do i change my fsb or vcore at if u can halp plz n thanx.

what bios version do you have?? you need to downgrade to version 608. keep reading through the posts, there is a very good guide i used posted, keep you eye open for that, many people have used this guide.


----------



## Royaltramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


did you mean that you used ntune to OC your system, or just your gpu?? figured just the gpu.. have you found a way to keep ntune from going back to default on your gpu clocks? mine seams to set back to default for some reason.

good to hear you got it going


I've come to the conclusion that nTune isn't really a good tool for overclocking. And it's the reason I don't like software overclocking. Yeah I just overclocked my gpu a while back, but nTune has been running ever since, hence why it was resetting my memory latencies too.

I think it's a problem with this specific motherboard like I said, since all of the latency resetting problems with with this specific board, and if it's due to nTune then it must be due to an incompatibility between the program and the board.

Try updating your forceware drivers, it's a possible solution. Though my best advice is to use something other than nTune (Riva Tuner is good) for overclocking your graphics card.

-Matt


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OptimusPrime*


anyone ? help me out with above problem.

Can't frikin get this board to install with SATA as primary







... today i removed my other ata drives and have my SATA only.... still having problems booting from it. NTLDR missing


sry man, i cant think of any issues that would cause it not to work. I have my main as SATA, and the only issue I had is initially I made sure SATA was enabled on the bios, and after that all was good..

maybe try moving to a different SATA input? I know I had an issue for awhile that my board wouldnt like the 2nd input, but now I have all 4 in use.


----------



## africandavid

Ntune doesn't work properly with vista. rivatuner is perfect for gpu overclocking. To overclock this mobo u definately need to do it through the bios. Be sure to know what you are doing before you try, or you will be very...very frustrated...or you will fry you mobo/cpu.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


But that means the NB will get hotter right?


Yes, but the NB will get hotter just from OCing as I understand it. OCing the RAM will make it hotter. Mine seems to also run a bit hotter with RAM in dual channel mode than in single channel mode. A thermalright HR-05 fits on the NB pretty nicely and with an 80mm fan it's even better, although the Motherboard temp in ASUS Probe won't change much because it's not reading the NB.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by OptimusPrime View Post
anyone ? help me out with above problem.

Can't frikin get this board to install with SATA as primary ... today i removed my other ata drives and have my SATA only.... still having problems booting from it. NTLDR missing


I had this same problem. The SM Bus driver that comes with the mobo driver disk is the culprit. Simply decline to install it until you can get an updated version.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


hmm must read more!!! someone will come along who has had success with a quad..


The P5N-E SLI is not a good choice of boards for OCing a Q6600. It all boils down to the 3-phase MOSFETs which can not supply adequate *amperage* for a Kentsfield quad. Short of doing a hard mod to the board's power supply I highly doubt that you can get more than 3.0GHz- which is the most I've seen anyone get stable.

I believe that I was the first to hit 3.0GHz (333*9) stable with my Q6600 on a P5N-E SLI, which is now running 3.61GHz (450*8) on my Maximus (Rampage) Formula. I was able to get 3.2GHz with the quad on the P5N-E, although it was only stable enough to do a SuperPi run and get a screen shot. 3.3Ghz would post and crash as windows loaded.

My advice is to swap boards to an X38 or X48 for your quad and put a Yorkfield dual core in the P5N-E.


----------



## torrell77

Hey BungalowJunkie, (or anyone else with a e6750 & p5n-e SLI) I've been having all types of trouble with my system (can't get it stable), and I was wondering if you're still using BIOS 0801 and if it's the best for a e6750 cpu?
Thanks


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bryan 702*


I been looking at over 50 pages of this thread and still havent understood or figured out how to overclock my computer here are my specs
OCZ DDR2 PC2-8500 / 1066MHz / NVIDIAÂ® SLIâ„¢-Ready Edition
Asus p5ne sli 650i
500gb seagate sata hard drive
nvidia geforce 8800 gts 328mb
Intel core 2 quad q6600
Tuniq Tower 120 Universal CPU Cooler 120mm Cooling Fan and Fan Controller/Heatsink - Retail
and my bios version is BIOS revision 1101 any tips on what to download or what do i change my fsb or vcore at if u can halp plz n thanx.


bryan, Diddler wrote the Bible on oc'ing Q6600 on p5n-e read very carefully- http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

Take note of everything in this post and put to good use. Good luck


----------



## AgentJadeD

Ive just upgraded my cpu from E6600 to E8400. But when i was installing my AC Freezer 7 Pro hsf the pin broke so im running the pos 45nm stock hsf.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *torrell77*


Hey BungalowJunkie, (or anyone else with a e6750 & p5n-e SLI) I've been having all types of trouble with my system (can't get it stable), and I was wondering if you're still using BIOS 0801 and if it's the best for a e6750 cpu?
Thanks


yes my bios is 0801.. have you manually set the timings for you memory? I had to manually set 4-4-4-12-2t.. also my sticks are in the 2 inner slots, the black ones i beleive.. (2x1gb dual) or leave one stick in and see what happens.

other than that, I left my memory clock alone, and chose manual/unlinked for cpu, and increased the fsb to 400 from 333.3 (for a 1:1 ratio to the speed of the ram) and I've been pretty solid since..

I also updated everything on my system (service pack3, latest version of IE, java) and cleaned everything up with superanti-spyware, ccleaner.. now things are real good.. until better cooling and I will push it some more!


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *donthaveacow*


hey anyone know how to set the pci-e lanes to 8x instead of 16x I wanna do it to test if a 9800GTX+ bottlenecks at 8x. and also can anybody tell me whether this is a pci-e 1.0or 1.1 slot as i am currently away form my computer and ill want to setup when i get home.

all help is appreciated


Switch the card thats on the mobo to "Dual VideoCards".

You'll probably only see a 1~3% performance los.


----------



## Nuke

OK, I am researching my first attempt at OCing. I am not looking to 'max out' just to tweak for performance improvements that are know stable and up to around 3.0. This is primarily a gaming system, minimal photo/video processing.

First question is: to use BOIS, or the nVidia control panel. I guess there are opinions on this from what I have read. My gut tells me BOIS, but I'm a noob lol

Second, it seems my hardware is similar to many, does anyone have a 'canned' setup that they can share?

I assume my system will show up here.


----------



## Nuke

additional info:

still running the origional BOIS version 0608 from 6/11/07

ASUS has version 1301 available, should I update first?


----------



## Zippit

update to 0801 (or was is 0803?







)

Basically you first need to find your minimal voltage for your CPU. Do this by lowering your CPU voltage until its unstable. You can test this with OCCT, Prime95 or IntelBurnTest.

Next thing is raising your FSB. Its Quad pumped so if you set your FSB to 1600 you can calculate your CPU speed like so: (1600\\4)x9 = 3600Mhz or 3,6Ghz. 1600 is the FSB, 4 is quad pumped and 9x is the default multiplier.

To come to that point of a 3Ghz OC you need to increase your FSB with increments of 25. Next check stability and monitor the temps with a program like RealTemp, Speedfan or Everest. If stable increase the FSB with another 25 until it gets unstable. You then increase your voltage 2 increments. Test and move on until you either hit an FSB wall, Temps get to high or your temps go sky high.









I hope I helped.


----------



## Zippit

Could someone help me enter my memory timings?

I have this RAM.

I know the timings but how do I enter them? Like in the same order that I read them but then from top to bottom or something?


----------



## torrell77

Has anyone else gotten the driver_irql_not_less_or_equal BSOD and found a fix...I get this practically every day, when trying to multi task on my system...I've googled this extensively and found nothing that helps....not sure if it's related to the board (can't have more than one sata drive hooked up without delayed write errors...or if it's related to the gpu (pny geforce 8800gt). I'm not overclocking anything and my ram timings are set properly. Can any one help?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *torrell77*


Has anyone else gotten the driver_irql_not_less_or_equal BSOD and found a fix...I get this practically every day, when trying to multi task on my system...I've googled this extensively and found nothing that helps....not sure if it's related to the board (can't have more than one sata drive hooked up without delayed write errors...or if it's related to the gpu (pny geforce 8800gt). I'm not overclocking anything and my ram timings are set properly. Can any one help?


I'd try re-installing drivers, and then a clean Windows re-install. Have you had this problem since you put this system together, or did it show up afterward?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Could someone help me enter my memory timings?

I have this RAM.

I know the timings but how do I enter them? Like in the same order that I read them but then from top to bottom or something?


Yep, set the bios top to bottom as you read them left to right.


----------



## Zippit

Okey done that.

But I cant seem to get past 3.6GHZ I tried 3.69Ghz but even with 1.35v i cant get it stable! While 3,6Ghz only needs 1,23v


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Okey done that.

But I cant seem to get past 3.6GHZ I tried 3.69Ghz but even with 1.35v i cant get it stable! While 3,6Ghz only needs 1,23v

Have you tried leaving the memory settings to auto while you push the FSB?


----------



## Zippit

I found my problem!

I had my NB voltage to 1.393 and I just upped it one notch and VOILA! 3,7Ghz! Now testing stability.


----------



## Aardobard

Nice Job! Good luck with the stability!


----------



## Zippit

I'm at 4Ghz now... cant seem to get stable.









I cant past a single test; OCCT, ORTHOS and InterBurnTest. But I can use my PC without any crashes.

I think its my memory... how far can I push my Voltage on my 2.1V memory?


----------



## natb1

Hi,

Im new to forum. I have the thread titled MB w/E6600 and 2X512 of DDR800.
I am not interested in MAXIMUM OC. Based on what I have read, I should be able to OC this board by ~%50 OK. Im not interested in OC my RAM, just the CPU &/or the FSB.

Ive been running at the stock speed for 1 1/2 Years now.

How a bout a quick BOIS setting quide to do this?

Thanks!


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I'm at 4Ghz now... cant seem to get stable.









I cant past a single test; OCCT, ORTHOS and InterBurnTest. But I can use my PC without any crashes.

I think its my memory... how far can I push my Voltage on my 2.1V memory?


The best answer is... 2.1v. You might also try loosening the settings either manually or let the mobo do it. OR you can manually set the memory for a better ratio, even if it means slightly underclocking it, but I'm not sure how much that's going to help your stability.

What vCore are you pushing?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natb1*


Hi,

Im new to forum. I have the thread titled MB w/E6600 and 2X512 of DDR800.
I am not interested in MAXIMUM OC. Based on what I have read, I should be able to OC this board by ~%50 OK. Im not interested in OC my RAM, just the CPU &/or the FSB.

Ive been running at the stock speed for 1 1/2 Years now.

How a bout a quick BOIS setting quide to do this?

Thanks!


This is the guide I started off with. I haven't found a better one.
http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...VIEWTMP=Linear


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


The best answer is... 2.1v. You might also try loosening the settings either manually or let the mobo do it. OR you can manually set the memory for a better ratio, even if it means slightly underclocking it, but I'm not sure how much that's going to help your stability.

What vCore are you pushing?


I'm at 1.275v atm... I tried all the way up to 1.3v

I'll try clocking the mem down a bit and if thats the problem I might go and get some 1066mhz mem.


----------



## natb1

OK,

Could you tell me what kind of 2X2GB of RAM people are successfuly using on this MB then?


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *natb1* 
OK,

Could you tell me what kind of 2X2GB of RAM people are successfuly using on this MB then?

look through this thread and check out each users rig ... and check the Asus website for 'officially' supported memory..

Heres the ram I am running with, its not 2x2gb though.. Patriot Extreme Performance 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)

also, do you have any additional cooling?? I would say your goal of pushing a 2.4 to a 3.6 with stock cooling is asking for trouble. I'm running an E6750 (2.66) and I have it to 3.2 easy, but I am in the process of getting a cpu cooler, and cooling for the north and south bridge..


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *natb1* 
OK,

Could you tell me what kind of 2X2GB of RAM people are successfuly using on this MB then?

I'm running OCZ Platinum 800Mhz.

Running good for a year now.


----------



## mcogan10

Quote:


Originally Posted by *natb1* 
OK,

Could you tell me what kind of 2X2GB of RAM people are successfuly using on this MB then?

2x2GB G.Skill Pi Black DDR2-800


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I'll try clocking the mem down a bit and if thats the problem I might go and get some 1066mhz mem.










You will need to manually set the RAM speed to less than 999mhz. Anything more and you will get BSOD.


----------



## natb1

Yea, I plan on cooling NB and SB, then ill compromise between OC and Cooling capability.

I was just hoping someone could give me some quick settings for 30-50% OC. I know I could sit for hours trying different settings, but thats why I use the internet. To find quick answers from people who know.

Whats the part numbers of the 2X2MB G. Skill that you are using?

Thanks!


----------



## Nuke

Thanks Zippit, however, I upgraded to BIOS 1301 because of the note: Enhance compatibility with certain VGA cards at SLI mode.

I have had some issues in SLI mode.

On 1301, I ran a full stress test of IntelBurnTest, max temps were 60/60/55/55 on RealTemp, no errors, so I guess I'm stable. I am water cooled, so I think that is a bit high.

The BIOS menu has an option to load 'canned' OC options, but I'm not sure if that is a good idea.

I think I need to work getting temps down via Voltage first....correct?


----------



## Nuke

Update, I used the ASUS 20% OC settings, and ran BurnTest again, 67/67/62/62, no errors, but pushing the upper limit on temps.....


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nuke* 
Thanks Zippit, however, I upgraded to BIOS 1301 because of the note: Enhance compatibility with certain VGA cards at SLI mode.

I have had some issues in SLI mode.

On 1301, I ran a full stress test of IntelBurnTest, max temps were 60/60/55/55 on RealTemp, no errors, so I guess I'm stable. I am water cooled, so I think that is a bit high.

The BIOS menu has an option to load 'canned' OC options, but I'm not sure if that is a good idea.

I think I need to work getting temps down via Voltage first....correct?

There are more methods to OC. Some people just set their vcore to the max the chip can handle and see how far they can push it.

Other people first find the lowest vcore thats stable and then start to OC bit by bit until they are satisfied.

I'm one of the last group.









Also the IntelBurnTest is overkill. You will never ever stress the PC as much as that program does!


----------



## Kylegreen

WOW, this thread is huge! I read back some but at over 800 pages, WOW.








I am new to overclocking and would appreciate any advice on getting started. I understand the basics and what I don't I am willing to research. I have unlinked the Bus and Mem and bumped the Bus to 375MHz. CPU-Z shows the Core Voltage @ 1.584 but I set it below 1.5 in the bios 1.4...something. Is this normal? Core temps are 26c @ idle and up to 55c @ 100% after 15+ minutes. The thermal paste that came with the cooler was not to good and I plan to get some more and remount. The system is stable as far as blue screens go but only lasts 5 minutes or less in OCCT CPU test. What do I need to do to make everything stable? I haven't touched the memory. I am willing to add board cooling, just let me know what works best.









What can I expect to get out of this set up and what temps should I be aiming for? The only limits I am familiar with are 72c max for the CPU and 1.5V safe max for Vcore.

Thanks in advance for the help! Kyle


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Kylegreen,

Well, you have a setup real close to mine.. same cpu, case and obviously mobo..

I'll have to get back to you once i get to my pc for the voltages, but I know I'm at 400 on the fsb, running 1:1 with 800 mhz ram, and stable at 3.2ghz. Voltages I havent touched at all. My temps get up to 54c load, but stable with orthos and prime...

check out this link

great help with airflow in the 900 case.. I used it to set up mine last week when I got it..

Heres what I did to my 900:


update: according to cpuz my core voltage is 1.536


----------



## Kylegreen

Wow, looks like you've got a good CPU there 3.2 and no Vcore increase. I don't think my CPU can clock very high. If you raise the bus speed on the CPU does the memory have to be increased also? Does it affect the stability of the system? What are the key elements to stabilizing an overclocked system?


----------



## evankd2

Running at 432.5 x 7 (3027.7Mhz) right now. Do you think this is the max i can get? The Vcore is at 1.35v, and MB Voltage is at 1.72v - it wont post if you drop the MB voltage down. But is pretty solid at those voltages and speeds. Temps are great too, Speedfan reports CPU: 30 degrees load, MB: 31 degrees load (I have an open case with a 120mm pointed right on the north bridge.) Looking for anybodies input, as i dont know where to go from here.

Thanks


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *evankd2* 
Running at 432.5 x 7 (3027.7Mhz) right now. Do you think this is the max i can get? The Vcore is at 1.35v, and MB Voltage is at 1.72v - it wont post if you drop the MB voltage down. But is pretty solid at those voltages and speeds. Temps are great too, Speedfan reports CPU: 30 degrees load, MB: 31 degrees load (I have an open case with a 120mm pointed right on the north bridge.) Looking for anybodies input, as i dont know where to go from here.

Thanks

A 61% OC is really good. I'm pretty concerned that you are running the MB at 1.72v. As I understand it, the MB temp is not taken from the NB, but from some other (unknown) place. Is it hot to the touch?

Sounds like you have a great board and chip there. You are pushing it pretty hard, so I'm not sure I can tell you where to go to get more out of it. Job well done!


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *evankd2*


Running at 432.5 x 7 (3027.7Mhz) right now. Do you think this is the max i can get? The Vcore is at 1.35v, and MB Voltage is at 1.72v - it wont post if you drop the MB voltage down. But is pretty solid at those voltages and speeds. Temps are great too, Speedfan reports CPU: 30 degrees load, MB: 31 degrees load (I have an open case with a 120mm pointed right on the north bridge.) Looking for anybodies input, as i dont know where to go from here.

Thanks


I would also say you have a very nice chip there, and if everything is stable, I'm not sure I'd push it! good job though! Maybe the next step is to relax, enjoy the OC you have, and save your cash for a new cpu.. prices are dropping.


----------



## Zippit

Random question:

Which of you have the +100mv option on?


----------



## evankd2

Thanks, yeah i was concerned about using 1.72 voltage but i ran orthos for a few hours and the temps were stable and the northbridge sink wasint even hot to the touch so...


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Random question:

Which of you have the +100mv option on?

When I'm at 3.8GHz (400 FSB) and above, I find it helps with stability.


----------



## AgentJadeD

just wondering what increase i should start at for my E8400 cpuz says its running at 1.34. Everest and pc probe says 1.23. Want to do a overclock to 3.6Ghz


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


just wondering what increase i should start at for my E8400 cpuz says its running at 1.34. Everest and pc probe says 1.23. Want to do a overclock to 3.6Ghz


I assume you are talking about your vCore. What does your bios say it is? Or do you have it set to auto?

What is your current OC (GHz and FSB) and temps? Are you attempting to up the vCore because of stability problems or something else? I have lots of questions.


----------



## AgentJadeD

well the vcore is auto cpu voltage in bios is 1.23 ive managed to get it up to 3.6GHz with voltage of 1.275. going to run prime95 before I leave for college today.


----------



## jbobb

On the same topic as the last few posts here, I am going to be putting in my e8400 this evening.







I was thinking of just oc'ing it to 3.6 to start out with for now and just wanted to verify if there is anything else I need to watch out for in the settings.

I have my RAM timings manually set and will upgrade the BIOS first of course. Other than setting the FSB to 400mhz (1600 in BIOS) is there anything else? To go to 3.6 do you need to manually enter in all the voltages also, or just leave them as auto?

I had my e6420 oc'd so I am familiar with most of the settings and manually set all of them, but I have heard from the e8400 that you don't need to do as much, so just checking what everyone else is normally doing.

Also, is it very difficult to get to 4ghz on this board?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


well the vcore is auto cpu voltage in bios is 1.23 ive managed to get it up to 3.6GHz with voltage of 1.275. going to run prime95 before I leave for college today.


Then I'd probably start at about 1.25v and bump it up in one step increments from there. That's a nice OC on stock volts, looks like you have a good chip.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbobb*


On the same topic as the last few posts here, I am going to be putting in my e8400 this evening.







I was thinking of just oc'ing it to 3.6 to start out with for now and just wanted to verify if there is anything else I need to watch out for in the settings.

I have my RAM timings manually set and will upgrade the BIOS first of course. Other than setting the FSB to 400mhz is there anything else? To go to 3.6 do you need to manually enter in all the voltages also, or just leave them as auto?

I had my e6420 oc'd so I am familiar with most of the settings and manually set all of them, but I have heard from the e8400 that you don't need to do as much, so just checking what everyone else is normally doing.

Also, is it very difficult to get to 4ghz on this board?


I think 4.0GHz is very doable on this board. Depending on your bios (and I'm a big fan of not flashing bios unless it's necessary) you may have very little effort to get to 3.6-3.8. Just try it and if it crashes, redo!

You might try leaving everything on auto and seeing how far that gets you before you start changing things, or you can go for the gold and set everything to it's highest in-warranty value and go from there.

It sounds like you have a good handle on this board and how it works, so good luck and keep us posted!


----------



## AgentJadeD

i set the cpu voltage to 1.275 to get 3.6ghz

should i also increase the nb voltage from auto to 1.56


----------



## jbobb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


I think 4.0GHz is very doable on this board. Depending on your bios (and I'm a big fan of not flashing bios unless it's necessary) you may have very little effort to get to 3.6-3.8. Just try it and if it crashes, redo!

You might try leaving everything on auto and seeing how far that gets you before you start changing things, or you can go for the gold and set everything to it's highest in-warranty value and go from there.

It sounds like you have a good handle on this board and how it works, so good luck and keep us posted!


Thanks and I will let you know the results.

One other question. I did get some AS5 for the CPU, which I have not used before. I have heard many different methods to apply it. Would the best method be to use the line method like on their site or the plastic zip-lock bag method? Also, would I apply any to the bottom of my AC Freezer? The reason I ask that, is because the bottom is not the smoothest surface and want to make sure the gaps get filled.


----------



## AgentJadeD

apply to the cpu rice size amount.

you can chk out my presentation a made last semester.

also comments regarding it are welcome.


----------



## Royaltramp

CPU Stock: E6550 2.33Ghz 1333FSB (1.44V auto-voltage XD) Stock HSF 67*C load temp
CPU Current: E6550 2.8Ghz 1600FSB 1.275V Stock HSF 67*C load temp

RAM Stock: Corsair XMS2 C4DHX 800Mhz 5-5-5-18 1.8V
RAM Current: Corsair XMS2 C4DHX 800Mhz 4-4-4-12 2.08V

Wondering how far I should go on my stock heatsink? 67 seems a little high, but it's been running on 1.44V with the same temps since August 2007, I only realised that was a bit dodgy recently when I decided to overclock. I reckon if it's still 67 at 1.44V then I could probably overclock it to like 3.2-3.4 on stock as I wouldn't have to raise the voltage past 1.325V max.

Since the RAM frequency drops a ton if I raise the FSB but don't keep the ratio equal, I'm guessing I should probably overclock the RAM. If I'm getting 4-4-4-12 @ 2.08V on 800Mhz then would 5-5-5-15 @ 2.08V on 1000Mhz sound reasonable? Since 1000Mhz would allow me to get 3.5Ghz happily.

P.S I'm using the latest 1301 BIOS.

Oh, and what heatsink would you all recommend? I plan to upgrade to an E8400 or E8600 when I can, but for now a new heatsink to allow me to OC a little further would be great.

-Matt


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


i set the cpu voltage to 1.275 to get 3.6ghz

should i also increase the nb voltage from auto to 1.56


I wouldn't unless you have stability issues that are not resolved with a vCore bump.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jbobb*


Thanks and I will let you know the results.

One other question. I did get some AS5 for the CPU, which I have not used before. I have heard many different methods to apply it. Would the best method be to use the line method like on their site or the plastic zip-lock bag method? Also, would I apply any to the bottom of my AC Freezer? The reason I ask that, is because the bottom is not the smoothest surface and want to make sure the gaps get filled.


People tend to have a favorite tim application method. My guess is that they all work pretty well. ;P

If the bottom is not flat and smooth then you can lap/grind it smooth. It may not make that big of a difference though depending on several factors (how much OC, relative flatness, application of tim, etc.). I would try it without modification and see if it gets you the temps you are happy with.

As far as the specific method, I personally like the rice sized grain, set and 1/4 twist method, henceforth referred to as the "bug squashing" method. It's simple, easy and doesn't call for tools or a prophylactic.

Cheers!


----------



## jbobb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


apply to the cpu rice size amount.

you can chk out my presentation a made last semester.

also comments regarding it are welcome.


That will be enough to fill in the machined lines on the bottom of my AC Freezer also? They are not very deep lines, but they are there. If it does, thermal compound goes further than I think.


----------



## AgentJadeD

the size in the presentation is the amount i used for my AC7.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royaltramp* 
CPU Stock: E6550 2.33Ghz 1333FSB (1.44V auto-voltage XD) Stock HSF 67*C load temp
CPU Current: E6550 2.8Ghz 1600FSB 1.275V Stock HSF 67*C load temp

RAM Stock: Corsair XMS2 C4DHX 800Mhz 5-5-5-18 1.8V
RAM Current: Corsair XMS2 C4DHX 800Mhz 4-4-4-12 2.08V

Wondering how far I should go on my stock heatsink? 67 seems a little high, but it's been running on 1.44V with the same temps since August 2007, I only realised that was a bit dodgy recently when I decided to overclock. I reckon if it's still 67 at 1.44V then I could probably overclock it to like 3.2-3.4 on stock as I wouldn't have to raise the voltage past 1.325V max.

Since the RAM frequency drops a ton if I raise the FSB but don't keep the ratio equal, I'm guessing I should probably overclock the RAM. If I'm getting 4-4-4-12 @ 2.08V on 800Mhz then would 5-5-5-15 @ 2.08V on 1000Mhz sound reasonable? Since 1000Mhz would allow me to get 3.5Ghz happily.

P.S I'm using the latest 1301 BIOS.

Oh, and what heatsink would you all recommend? I plan to upgrade to an E8400 or E8600 when I can, but for now a new heatsink to allow me to OC a little further would be great.

-Matt

I assume you have the RAM unlinked in bios. It's ok for the RAM frequency to fluctuate up and down while you're getting to your max FSB. Don't sweat it.







Find your max FSB, _then_ fidgit with the RAM.

I'm a conservative OCer, so I'd back the vCore down to 1.325v or lower. Your temps are relatively high and you could really use a HSF to get them under control. Check out the HSF guide in my sig.

Cheers!


----------



## jbobb

Well, I got my e8400 installed and had no problem what so ever oc'ing it to 3.6Ghz. I had the vcore set to 1.15v and the +100mv enabled, so it is running around 1.25v. Not too bad i guess. My 3dMark06 score went up almost 2000 points!







When I get more time, I will try to get it to 4.0Ghz.


----------



## Zippit

You lucky you!

I tried increasing every voltage but I cant seem to get it stable on 4Ghz.









I even pencil modded my board today! Working great! I used to have a 0.8v~0.9v vdroop and now only 0.01v.


----------



## jbobb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


You lucky you!

I tried increasing every voltage but I cant seem to get it stable on 4Ghz.









I even pencil modded my board today! Working great! I used to have a 0.8v~0.9v vdroop and now only 0.01v.










Well, who knows, I may have issues with 4Ghz also. I'll make sure to post back when I try it out. Might not bee till end of next week sometime till I get around to it though. CPU seems to be very good so far though. I did get a low batch number also Q829A158. I think the 158 is the 158th one off the batch and I heard the lower numbers seem to be better (could be wrong though).


----------



## AgentJadeD

So ive managed to break 17273 with 3dmark06. 

Im running 4GHz @ 1.325v

cant get stable running blend on prime95. Should I try small FTTs, or large FFTs


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


So ive managed to break 17273 with 3dmark06. 

Im running 4GHz @ 1.325v

cant get stable running blend on prime95. Should I try small FTTs, or large FFTs


Small.

Small is for CPU large are for RAM.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Speaking of voltages, all mine are set to auto, only thing I've changed being the fsb (333 to 400) on my 6750.. and thats ok for now until I do more work _(lap the cpu, another fan on the case, heatsinks for the NB & SB)_

should I be manually controlling my voltages right now, or leave it alone because all is stable?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


Speaking of voltages, all mine are set to auto, only thing I've changed being the fsb (333 to 400) on my 6750.. and thats ok for now until I do more work _(lap the cpu, another fan on the case, heatsinks for the NB & SB)_

should I be manually controlling my voltages right now, or leave it alone because all is stable?


If it ain't broke...


----------



## BungalowJunkie

yup.. my thoughts exactly..


----------



## AgentJadeD

well just ran prime95 for 7hrs34min on small FFTs without a problem at 3.6ghz vcore 1.15 and +100mv enabled. Temps 42c


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


well just ran prime95 for 7hrs34min on small FFTs without a problem at 3.6ghz vcore 1.15 and +100mv enabled. Temps 42c


That looks awesome, congrats! Are you still having trouble with the blend test? If so, you could try loosening the RAM timings, reducing the clock on your memory bus to a more favorable multiplier, or bumping the voltage up on your RAM if that's possible.

Cheers!


----------



## AgentJadeD

well i have my ram at 2.01v


----------



## jbobb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


well just ran prime95 for 7hrs34min on small FFTs without a problem at 3.6ghz vcore 1.15 and +100mv enabled. Temps 42c


Cool. THat is exactly what I have mine running at right now and works fine. I haven't had time to run through Orthos or Prime95 yet to stress it, but have went through quite a few hours of gaming and it has been working fine so far.


----------



## 5I7H10RD

Hi, guys. As you will notice I have just joined this forum after using it for sometime...

Anyway, I thought this thread would be of some help. I have had my P5N-E SLI for over 18 months now, and I have never had a successful OC. I even bought some new memory just a week ago for it, but still no luck.

My spec's are below. My BIOS is currently setup with the following options:

CPU Vcore: 1.23
Memory Voltage: 2.17
NB Core Voltage: 1.39
Core +MV = +100MV

Memory:
Speed: 800MHz
Timings: 4-4-4-12 2T

CPU: 
FSB: 1006MHz
Multiplyer: 9
Speed: 2400MHz

Other settings: 
Spread Spectrums disabled
All CPU features disabled apart from 'execute disable bit'
0608 BIOS
Memory and FSB unlinked

I have never had a stable OC, the most common occurance, is a BSOD as soon as Windows begins to load. I have had the BIOS crash at post screen. I have had it not post at all.

The most stable I have ever had it as was a 1166MHz FSB, but it ended up coming to my motherboards last refusal method, it eventually crashes Windows. It chooses random times to do it, it could be when running a demanding game, folding @ home, or just simply browsing the web.

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## AgentJadeD

you running your voltages on auto or set it to 1.23. Also update your bios.


----------



## AgentJadeD




----------



## Royaltramp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie* 
Speaking of voltages, all mine are set to auto, only thing I've changed being the fsb (333 to 400) on my 6750.. and thats ok for now until I do more work _(lap the cpu, another fan on the case, heatsinks for the NB & SB)_

should I be manually controlling my voltages right now, or leave it alone because all is stable?

You should set them manually, the BIOS will over-estimate which could cause your CPU to overheat. I know my BIOS was setting my CPU vCore to 1.45V on stock clocks (2.33Ghz) and I'm now running it at just 1.275V with 2.8Ghz because I set it manually.

-Matt


----------



## 5I7H10RD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


you running your voltages on auto or set it to 1.23. Also update your bios.


I set the voltages manually, running @ 1.23 then enabling +100MV decreases the vDroop on the board, I thought it would help. And as for the BIOS, is it really necessary to update it?

I have heard 0608 is the most stable for OCing with, and I believe it, I did try to get to 3.0GHz, with other BIOS versions just to test it, and none of them even booted. With 0608, I got as far as loading Windows and logging in, then it crashed, which is much further than any of the other BIOS's I have tried (including the latest one).

If it is really what you recommend then I shall do it but I doubt it will do much good.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *5I7H10RD*


Hi, guys. As you will notice I have just joined this forum after using it for sometime...

FSB: 1006MHz
Multiplyer: 9
Speed: 2400MHz

0608 BIOS
Memory and FSB unlinked

Any help is appreciated!


On this board you are looking at a 3.0 ceiling OC'ing that chip. It just doesn't do well.

OTOH, you can probably get more than you have now with a bios update. There is a page somewhere (dang it, I've lost it!) that lists which P5N-E SLI bios is compatible with each CPU. If somebody can find that for me and post it, that'd be great!









You can probably go ahead and just give it the latest bios to reduce the chances of needing to do it again.

It sounds like you're working all the angles and I think that by doing that flash you'll be a happier camper.









Somewhere in this thread I believe is a Q6600 OC guide. You might see if you can locate it. :shrug:

Cheers!


----------



## AgentJadeD

asus bios link


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD* 
asus bios link

Thanks! That gave me what I needed. This is the actual page i was talking about:
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI

Hmmm.... seems like 0608 is the correct bios for the Q6600. Unless I'm missing something.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royaltramp*


You should set them manually, the BIOS will over-estimate which could cause your CPU to overheat. I know my BIOS was setting my CPU vCore to 1.45V on stock clocks (2.33Ghz) and I'm now running it at just 1.275V with 2.8Ghz because I set it manually.

-Matt


That was the other reason why I posed the question.. Even though all is stable right now, my cpu core temps do reach 60c.. which I know isnt crazy hot, but its not healthy either.. A combo of manually setting my vCore, and I plan on re-seating and lapping this weekend.. that should lower my temps..

thanks! I'll let you know what happens.


----------



## AgentJadeD

I broke 4.2GHz @ 1.30v w/ +100mv
only ran 3dmark06, got 17648.
not a huge accomplishment considering i got 17273 @ 4GHz


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


I broke 4.2GHz @ 1.30v w/ +100mv
only ran 3dmark06, got 17648.
not a huge accomplishment considering i got 17273 @ 4GHz


Congratz! Have you stability tested it beyond the 3D Mark? Exciting!


----------



## AgentJadeD

nope. not going to until i get a new hsf. running stock


----------



## tesseract

Hello, I'm a first time user of the overclock.net message boards. I've been thinking about overclocking my system but I have no experience overclocking.

I have the P5N-E SLI motherboard with an E8400 Wolfdale 3.0ghz processor.

Where do I begin?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tesseract*


Hello, I'm a first time user of the overclock.net message boards. I've been thinking about overclocking my system but I have no experience overclocking.

I have the P5N-E SLI motherboard with an E8400 Wolfdale 3.0ghz processor.

Where do I begin?


This is the best 'guide' I've seen, even though it's not from this forum.
http://forums.anandtech.com/messagev...VIEWTMP=Linear

If you have more questions, and you will... post away!

Cheers!


----------



## Corrupted Mind

Hi guys..
I'm interested in buying this memory kit..

G.Skill F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B 800MHz 4GB (2x2GB)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231209

I now have 2 sticks from my config below..

Will it work with the 2 I have.. plus those other 2x2GB?

I'm getting a mixed result from google.. some say it works.. some say it doesn't .. but haven't heard anything about specs like mine..

anyway.. thanks in advance..


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Corrupted Mind*


Hi guys..
I'm interested in buying this memory kit..

G.Skill F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B 800MHz 4GB (2x2GB)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231209

I now have 2 sticks from my config below..

Will it work with the 2 I have.. plus those other 2x2GB?

I'm getting a mixed result from google.. some say it works.. some say it doesn't .. but haven't heard anything about specs like mine..

anyway.. thanks in advance..










I haven't personally tested it, but I did read in another forum that many people were having trouble getting this board to accept and post/boot with all four RAM slots used regardless of mix/matching.

Any specific reason you want to go to 8Gb (I infer that you have 4Gb of the A-data), I'm not sure how much of a real difference you'll see unless you have some RAM hungry purpose in mind.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
I haven't personally tested it, but I did read in another forum that many people were having trouble getting this board to accept and post/boot with all four RAM slots used regardless of mix/matching.

really? i hope I dont have any issues, as I should be getting another 2 gb today , for 4x1gb total.. it was hard to pass up, found them for $25 shipped!

I'll let ya'll know tonight!

also, I installed a side 120mm on my antec 900 to cool down my 8600 gts, dropped 1 degree! gotta find some sandpaper to lap still...


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


really? i hope I dont have any issues, as I should be getting another 2 gb today , for 4x1gb total.. it was hard to pass up, found them for $25 shipped!

I'll let ya'll know tonight!

also, I installed a side 120mm on my antec 900 to cool down my 8600 gts, dropped 1 degree! gotta find some sandpaper to lap still...


Try the auto parts store. That's where I found the grits of paper that I needed.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Corrupted Mind*


Hi guys..
I'm interested in buying this memory kit..

G.Skill F2-6400CL4D-4GBPI-B 800MHz 4GB (2x2GB)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231209

I now have 2 sticks from my config below..

Will it work with the 2 I have.. plus those other 2x2GB?

I'm getting a mixed result from google.. some say it works.. some say it doesn't .. but haven't heard anything about specs like mine..

anyway.. thanks in advance..










My first question is also why the 8gb? Video editing? HD encoding? 3d graphics?

anyway, I can tell you this, I just dropped another 2x1gb of patriot memory on my board, and I didnt realize they had different timings then the 2 sticks I already had (existing had 4-4-4-12, new are stock at 5-5-5-12) I was able to set the timings at 5-5-5-12 and boot with the old sticks, then I dropped in the new and all was good (I made sure that the sticks were matched to each other, ie. slot a1 and b1 for the old, and a2 and b2 with the new)

so what ever sticks have the looser or higher timings, bios has to be set to that.. and you may have to up your voltage a bit to handle the load of more ram.. good luck!


----------



## Royaltramp

Is it safe to have 1.56V on the northbridge without any aftermarket cooling? I need to up the NB voltage to get 3.15Ghz or higher, but I don't want to overheat the board.

-Matt


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royaltramp*


Is it safe to have 1.56V on the northbridge without any aftermarket cooling? I need to up the NB voltage to get 3.15Ghz or higher, but I don't want to overheat the board.

-Matt


I'm doing it... although I did apply AS5 and I have a 120mm fan blowing on it.


----------



## DraganUS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I'm doing it... although I did apply AS5 and I have a 120mm fan blowing on it.










Even better if u find some small 40 mm fan which will fit perfectly and just attach to nb.


----------



## Royaltramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I'm doing it... although I did apply AS5 and I have a 120mm fan blowing on it.










Yeah, I have no cooling other than stock. No paste, no fans, nothing. Unless you count case fans and the fan on the bottom of the PSU.

-Matt


----------



## Corrupted Mind

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie* 
My first question is also why the 8gb? Video editing? HD encoding? 3d graphics?

anyway, I can tell you this, I just dropped another 2x1gb of patriot memory on my board, and I didnt realize they had different timings then the 2 sticks I already had (existing had 4-4-4-12, new are stock at 5-5-5-12) I was able to set the timings at 5-5-5-12 and boot with the old sticks, then I dropped in the new and all was good (I made sure that the sticks were matched to each other, ie. slot a1 and b1 for the old, and a2 and b2 with the new)

so what ever sticks have the looser or higher timings, bios has to be set to that.. and you may have to up your voltage a bit to handle the load of more ram.. good luck!

The fact is: I'm not going to use 8GB..
I have 2 GB (2x1GB). with this configuration I'll get 6GB..

I want this .. because I think 4GB is just too little to justify going 64bits..
and I want to have a little more..









also.. my current and my possible-future memory have the same timings.. I already checked that..









I'll see what I'll do..

thanks anyway!


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
Try the auto parts store. That's where I found the grits of paper that I needed.

yup.. i went to an auto paint supply store and picked them up..


----------



## Hellraiser1981

Hi, I'm new to overclock.net, I've got this motherboard second hand/refurbished.
I'm trying to build a mid level system. I've just order some Corsair Dominator 4GB PC8500 DDR2 for it. I'm hoping to over clock my P4 when its up & running just to get use to overclocking, hoping later on to get a Q6600. Any advise would be appreciated.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hellraiser1981*


Hi, I'm new to overclock.net, I've got this motherboard second hand/refurbished.
I'm trying to build a mid level system. I've just order some Corsair Dominator 4GB PC8500 DDR2 for it. I'm hoping to over clock my P4 when its up & running just to get use to overclocking, hoping later on to get a Q6600. Any advise would be appreciated.


Welcome to the P5n-e club! You should have pretty good luck OC'ing that P4 with this board. I currently oc my 3GHz P4 to 4GHz with no problems. If you have any specific questions, I'll be glad to try and help.

As for the Q6600, you should do a search of this thread for that. Most people seem to have a hard time getting past 3Ghz with a Q6600 on a P5N-e. If you do go that route though, here is a thread on that very thing.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...p5n-e-sli.html

Good Luck!


----------



## Hellraiser1981

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RaBidRaBit* 
Welcome to the P5n-e club! You should have pretty good luck OC'ing that P4 with this board. I currently oc my 3GHz P4 to 4GHz with no problems. If you have any specific questions, I'll be glad to try and help.

As for the Q6600, you should do a search of this thread for that. Most people seem to have a hard time getting past 3Ghz with a Q6600 on a P5N-e. If you do go that route though, here is a thread on that very thing.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...p5n-e-sli.html

Good Luck!









Thank you! I will be asking a few things.

But I've run into a small problem already, I've just up dated my bios from 701 to 1301 with no problems.
After updating bios I cleared the cmos & then went into bios & set everything up then saved & exited.
But now when I boot I get a message saying:-

"Unknown CPU detected - Bios update is required to unleash its full power."

I'm not sure what I've done wrong or if I missed something.

But all I can say is help.









Updated

I've try reflasing bios with v 1101 & 1201, but i'm still getting the same message.
Not sure what to do now?


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Were you having problems with the original bios that was on the motherboard? Are you oc'ing it from the get-go or have you tried booting with stock settings? Before you try oc'ing anything make sure everything works at stock then increase frequencies slowly.

I would flash back to whatever bios worked the first time and use that until you upgrade your CPU.

Edit to add: After searching the AsusTek forum for this issue it seems that this problem occurs when the bios is not flashed in a specific way. Supposedly, sometimes it works to enter bios and F10 save/exit without changing anything (kinda like a jolt in the pants for the mb?). Here is a how-to on flashing the P5n-e bios. The guy who wrote obviously doesn't speak English as a first language but it seems that he know a lot about this mb.

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...E%20SLI&page=1

PS. Do not flash from Windows.


----------



## AgentJadeD

why not. Ive done it. Works fine. No issues at all.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

It's safer to flash your mb using DOS. Basically, Windows is much more likely to crash or run into a bug than is DOS. A system failure during flashing is _no bueno_. Didn't say that you couldn't flash from windows, just saying it is safer not to.


----------



## Hellraiser1981

Thank for the reply's, after many a hour looking around the world wide web I found the answer on the asus site (last place I looked







)

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

On this page one person said more or less that to allow for new data for newer cpu's that old data for cpu's is left out.
Which to me sound's about right







as the bios chip can only store about 4mb
of data.
Never mind, dual core for me then!








Just a shame the wife isn't happy about me spending more money!


----------



## Royaltramp

Is 44*C mobo temp while using MSN and writing this post a little high? It's always been pretty high and I've never had any real problems with it, but I was just wondering.

Also. 1.56V NB voltage on the stock nb heatsink - Can I do this safely or is the risk too great?

-Matt


----------



## AgentJadeD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royaltramp* 
Is 44*C mobo temp while using MSN and writing this post a little high? It's always been pretty high and I've never had any real problems with it, but I was just wondering.

Also. 1.56V NB voltage on the stock nb heatsink - Can I do this safely or is the risk too great?

-Matt

I run my NB at 1.56, and temps range from 39-50 pending on load.

i say your safe.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

speaking of NB.. can the NB heatsink be removed without pulling the mobo out?? I want to at least re-seat it with some arctic silver.. but really dont feel like pulling it out to do so.. but if I have to, so be it..


----------



## crazydj

No you got to take out your board if you wanna remove your NB heatsink.


----------



## africandavid

Hey Guys
I just bought a Hd 4870 and want to use my old 8600gt for physX, any tips on how to go about doing this??
I have the board in the second slot and installed the physx software but it doesn't seem to detect the card. Could it be because the sli card is not turned over? 
Any help would be appreciated. Thx.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royaltramp*


Is 44*C mobo temp while using MSN and writing this post a little high? It's always been pretty high and I've never had any real problems with it, but I was just wondering.

Also. 1.56V NB voltage on the stock nb heatsink - Can I do this safely or is the risk too great?

-Matt


That's basically an idle temp. While it's ok, I'm wondering why you chose to boost the NB volts. And do you have a small fan attached to the NB? That might help some, although I wouldn't necessarily expect the MB temp to drop as a result.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Hey Guys
I just bought a Hd 4870 and want to use my old 8600gt for physX, any tips on how to go about doing this??
I have the board in the second slot and installed the physx software but it doesn't seem to detect the card. Could it be because the sli card is not turned over? 
Any help would be appreciated. Thx.



How the sli card works.
When set to single card,it will give x16 lanes to the first pci-e slot and 0 pci-e lanes to the second slot.

When the card is set to sli , it will give x8 lanes to each of the two pci-e slots.

so if you want a card to run in the second slot, you will have to flip the card to sli for both slots to work.


----------



## africandavid

Thx for replying, do you think it will be worth running this setup or will it bottleneck the HD 4870 to the point where there will be no gain?


----------



## Royaltramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


That's basically an idle temp. While it's ok, I'm wondering why you chose to boost the NB volts. And do you have a small fan attached to the NB? That might help some, although I wouldn't necessarily expect the MB temp to drop as a result.


Well I'm hoping to up the NB voltage to allow myself to increase my overclock. I'm currently at 2.8Ghz but I'd like to up it to between 3.15Ghz and 3.5Ghz. It's currently refusing to boot at 3.15 and I'm 99% sure it's the NB voltage causing the problem.

-Matt


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *africandavid* 
Thx for replying, do you think it will be worth running this setup or will it bottleneck the HD 4870 to the point where there will be no gain?


What I would do is benchmark it both ways.
Run Vantage with the sli card set to single slot (16 lanes to pci-e 1)and then run Vantage with the sli card set to sli (8 lanes each to pci-e 1 & 2)and the 8600gt fitted to the second sli slot, but dont enable it for physx, as that would help the Vantage score and give you a false reading.

If you do try this, can you post back with the results, I would be interested to see them.

http://www.futuremark.com/downloads/


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


What I would do is benchmark it both ways.
Run Vantage with the sli card set to single slot (16 lanes to pci-e 1)and then run Vantage with the sli card set to sli (8 lanes each to pci-e 1 & 2)and the 8600gt fitted to the second sli slot, but dont enable it for physx, as that would help the Vantage score and give you a false reading.

If you do try this, can you post back with the results, I would be interested to see them.

http://www.futuremark.com/downloads/


thanks will do


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


thanks will do


I will try this myself later, I have a 8800gts 512, which wont push the pci-e slot as much as the HD 4870, but it will be interesting to see results.

The pci-e x16 slots on this motherboard are v1.1, the latest type being v2.0 which I believe can carry more power to the card and can work at twice the speed.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Exp...CI_Express_2.0

and another thing, you will not have to add a graphic card to the second slot, when the selector card it switched to sli.
But just make sure the main graphic card it running in x8 using GPUZ, before runing Vantage.


----------



## Rice Gnat

Hey guys, I've got a bit of an odd problem here. It would seem that my board is draining the lithium cell battery very quickly... I've gone through maybe five or six new batteries with almost identical results. It starts off at around 2V, then drops to 1.5-1.7V after shutting off the power.
It started with the original battery that came with the board. Used to run fine, steady 3.10V as reported by SpeedFan. One day it suddenly dropped to around 1.5V. So I replaced the battery. Five times, with two different brands, so I don't believe that I got five DOA batteries.
Now if I shut off my computer for any substantial period of time the battery will drain and clear the CMOS. Because of Asus's OC Profiles feature this in itself isn't annoying, it's more of having to constantly switch out the battery.
Multimeter reading for the batteries out of the socket is around 2.5V for the lot. I haven't had a chance to measure while it's in the socket, because of the way the socket's made.
So, any thoughts? I've got absolutely no clue what's going on with this board, and I would rather not replace it for something silly like this.


----------



## quakermaas

http://service.futuremark.com/home.a...&resultType=19

http://service.futuremark.com/home.a...&resultType=19

8800 gts 512mb, run at x8 and x16 pci-e

Very very little different on the gpu score.

Is it normal for my cpu score to be so high


----------



## africandavid

Thanks, I appreceate the trouble, i tried to swap out the card and do the above but there is some problem with vista that will not allow me to use the second card unless I have a 2cd monitor attached to my video card. It's not worht the trouble right now as I don't have any games that are PhysX capable, I just had an itch to do this seiing I had to install the new card anyway.
....BTW .. the SLI pcb switch board thingy is a real pain in the *ss.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Thanks, I appreceate the trouble, i tried to swap out the card and do the above but there is some problem with vista that will not allow me to use the second card unless I have a 2cd monitor attached to my video card. It's not worht the trouble right now as I don't have any games that are PhysX capable, I just had an itch to do this seiing I had to install the new card anyway. 
....BTW .. the SLI pcb switch board thingy is a real pain in the *ss.



I wanted to know For myself as well , as I am thinking of getting another 8800gts for sli, which brings me to a question for anybody.

I have 3 sata cables in my sata ports, and if I try to fit another 8800 , will the sata cables/ports stop me ?

All so has anybody run the north bridge at the 1.7volts setting for any length of time ? I have mine water cooled and have only went as far as the 1.5 volt setting and can get to 475fsb stable.

Edit: just done a quick try with the northbridge at 1.7volts and it didnt make much of a difference , would post at 1940(485 fsb) , but not at 1960 (490 fsb). 
I am now back to 1.5 volts on the NB and a fsb of 1900(475).

I would like to try a few runs at the 1.7 volt settting, to see if I can get a higher fsb


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *quakermaas* 
I wanted to know For myself as well , as I am thinking of getting another 8800gts for sli, which brings me to a question for anybody.

I have 3 sata cables in my sata ports, and if I try to fit another 8800 , will the sata cables/ports stop me ?

Nope... I'm using all four and I have no problem at all.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

So I have a Thermaltake CL-C0034 for the NB, and a ZALMAN ZM-NB47J for the SB on its way from newegg.. soon I'll be ready to push my box a little further.. buuut.. last weekend I lapped my cpu, and applied arctic ceramique.. not sure if I applied it wrong or too much, as my temps now are higher than before!!!

I usually apply a grain of rice size drop on the chip, then spread it in a circle with a plastic bag, then drop the cooler on it.. any other tips??

note that I wanted to save a bit for a bigger cpu cooler, so I lapped, added 2 more 120mm to my antec 900 (giving me 6+2 fans on the psu) and got the chipset coolers..

also, has anyone had a fsb hole around the 1700 area for the cpu? I cant seem to get that going? maybe up the nb voltage i guess.. (I'm only at 1600 for now)

this forum is great btw..keep it up!


----------



## AgentJadeD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Nope... I'm using all four and I have no problem at all.


I tried getting 2 8800 GTS 512 back in may of 2008. Wasn't success full. Got any pics to see how snug it is. And did you change out the coolers for aftermarket ones?


----------



## bron

Edit : Oops.Wrong thread!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


So I have a Thermaltake CL-C0034 for the NB, and a ZALMAN ZM-NB47J for the SB on its way from newegg.. soon I'll be ready to push my box a little further.. buuut.. last weekend I lapped my cpu, and applied arctic ceramique.. not sure if I applied it wrong or too much, as my temps now are higher than before!!!

I usually apply a grain of rice size drop on the chip, then spread it in a circle with a plastic bag, then drop the cooler on it.. any other tips??

note that I wanted to save a bit for a bigger cpu cooler, so I lapped, added 2 more 120mm to my antec 900 (giving me 6+2 fans on the psu) and got the chipset coolers..

also, has anyone had a fsb hole around the 1700 area for the cpu? I cant seem to get that going? maybe up the nb voltage i guess.. (I'm only at 1600 for now)

this forum is great btw..keep it up!


I don't think you should to spread the TIM with a plastic bag, as it can trap air.

Grain of rice size in the middle of the cpu, bolt on the cooler, twist it a little left to right before applying full pressure to the bolts. well that's how I do it and never had a problem.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/instructions.htm

What voltage have you on the northbridge and how many sticks of ram ?

I can run my fsb up to 475 at the 1.5v NB setting, with 2 sticks of ram and no problems.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


I tried getting 2 8800 GTS 512 back in may of 2008. Wasn't success full. Got any pics to see how snug it is. And did you change out the coolers for aftermarket ones?


It looks very tight. 
I would like to see pics too, I done a google search , but no joy.


----------



## Zippit

I'll take some pics later today. (will be 5~6 hours from this post)

I dont know if my camera fits in my case to take a picture since its huge and my case is tiny.









There is a HAF on his way though.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rice Gnat*


Hey guys, I've got a bit of an odd problem here. It would seem that my board is draining the lithium cell battery very quickly... I've gone through maybe five or six new batteries with almost identical results. It starts off at around 2V, then drops to 1.5-1.7V after shutting off the power.
[snip]
So, any thoughts? I've got absolutely no clue what's going on with this board, and I would rather not replace it for something silly like this.


RMA. This is not just a silly problem, it's going to be a constant annoyance. They should have it back to you in about 2 weeks from shipping from my experience.

Cheers!


----------



## Zippit

Sorry for the bad pics but its hard to get a focus at such close distances.... maybe I should have put my camera to Macro but w/e.

You could always put your original 8800 in the second slot just to make sure it fits.


----------



## AgentJadeD

well you forgot to mention that you have 2 G80 GTS' not the G92 GTS'

The G92's HSF are squad and the size of the card while the G80's are rounded.


----------



## Zippit

Neither did you guys say you had the G92's. I thought you had the 512 G80's.


----------



## Rice Gnat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


RMA. This is not just a silly problem, it's going to be a constant annoyance. They should have it back to you in about 2 weeks from shipping from my experience.

Cheers!


Aaaargh, so it's unfixable? *sighs* Guess there's no helping it then.. Thanks anyway


----------



## AgentJadeD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Neither did you guys say you had the G92's. I thought you had the 512 G80's.



Everyone knows that the G80 never came in a 512MB version.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


Everyone knows that the G80 never came in a 512MB version.


Apparently I didn't.









Anyways... you could just put your own 8800 in the second slot to see if it fits or not.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


I don't think you should to spread the TIM with a plastic bag, as it can trap air.

Grain of rice size in the middle of the cpu, bolt on the cooler, twist it a little left to right before applying full pressure to the bolts. well that's how I do it and never had a problem.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/instructions.htm

What voltage have you on the northbridge and how many sticks of ram ?

I can run my fsb up to 475 at the 1.5v NB setting, with 2 sticks of ram and no problems.


thanks for the tip.. after reading it again, it looks like you can rub it on the heatsink with a bag (tinting, then rub it off with a coffee filter) and only put a drop on the cpu.. this is the first time using ceramique..a bit thicker!

I'll get back to you with my voltages.. my sb and nb heatsinks will be here today, so I'll drop those in, re-seat my cpu and fire her up again..


----------



## BungalowJunkie

bummer...

So i re-applied ceramique, and also moved my side case fan to a dif fan connector on the mobo.. and now it shuts down right after post.. ***!

I pulled 1 stick of ram out and tried again... nope..

is this a sign that I fried something??

funny thing is i just received another psu for an older rig today.., guess I'll try that in there..

aahhhhh!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
RMA. This is not just a silly problem, it's going to be a constant annoyance. They should have it back to you in about 2 weeks from shipping from my experience.

Cheers!

so it takes ASUS 2 weeks to send u ur RMA board dam asus intel took 3 days to send me my 2 new processors and ASUS Takes 2 weeks ? that why iwill not buy another asus product again


----------



## Rice Gnat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azcrazy*


so it takes ASUS 2 weeks to send u ur RMA board dam asus intel took 3 days to send me my 2 new processors and ASUS Takes 2 weeks ? that why iwill not buy another asus product again










Asus is based in Taiwan. Intel is based in (I assume) California. California's a lot closer.

Besides, I'd probably be RMAing through Cyberpower instead of directly to ASUS.


----------



## natb1

Anyone know if these mem sticks work with this MOBO?

anyone...anyone?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227267

OCZ Reaper HPC Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)


----------



## Kopi

Hey guys, I wanna put my HR-05 SLI on this board, and I've asked this question before but I'm asking it again...what is the best method you guys have found for taking off that northbridge heatsink? Its stuck on there really well


----------



## Delphi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Hey guys, I wanna put my HR-05 SLI on this board, and I've asked this question before but I'm asking it again...what is the best method you guys have found for taking off that northbridge heatsink? Its stuck on there really well

pop out pushpins on the back side of the board. And slowly and carefully twist the heat sink. Thats what i did when i reseated it. Just a FYI the Thermal paste that is used on it is some kind of hard plastic crap, not a gooey paste like regular people use, so its gonna take some time to get it off cause its on there good.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *azcrazy*


so it takes ASUS 2 weeks to send u ur RMA board dam asus intel took 3 days to send me my 2 new processors and ASUS Takes 2 weeks ? that why iwill not buy another asus product again










That two weeks was from my shipping a dead board to their returning a repaired board into my hands. Considering it takes about 3-5 days to ship ground, I'd say that's a pretty fast turn-around. What Intel did was send you some new processors, which is great, but I don't think that's industry standard for RMA. Otherwise everybody would OC the hell out of everything.

Now, my current P5N-E SLI RMA is another story entirely...


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *natb1*


Anyone know if these mem sticks work with this MOBO?

anyone...anyone?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227267

OCZ Reaper HPC Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)


I use the same sort of stuff

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...l3_edition-eol

works well for me , I have it running at 950mhz at 4-4-4-12


----------



## azcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


That two weeks was from my shipping a dead board to their returning a repaired board into my hands. Considering it takes about 3-5 days to ship ground, I'd say that's a pretty fast turn-around. What Intel did was send you some new processors, which is great, but I don't think that's industry standard for RMA. Otherwise everybody would OC the hell out of everything.

Now, my current P5N-E SLI RMA is another story entirely...


well it has been a week and half that i shipp (2nd day air) and they have recieved my board ,i check asus RMA status and it said NULL im not sure what that means but i guess is not good for me but o well DFI took 4 days to ship it back after they got my mobo and i think DFI is not based here in USA but ony how i have to wait no matter what









and sorry guys this is not the place to post problems with ASUS , i will post back when i get it to get some help on OCNG my p5n-e


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Delphi*


pop out pushpins on the back side of the board. And slowly and carefully twist the heat sink. Thats what i did when i reseated it. Just a FYI the Thermal paste that is used on it is some kind of hard plastic crap, not a gooey paste like regular people use, so its gonna take some time to get it off cause its on there good.


Yeah I know its some sort of tough ceramic garbage. Did you heat it up at all before hand, and did it require any of pulling force or just twisting?


----------



## Royaltramp

I need a definite answer ASAP. Is 1.56V NB safe with only the stock NB heatsink? Also, my MB temperature is at 48*C atm, and all I have open is two instances of Firefox - Is that safe?

Please reply as soon as possible. This is kind of urgent for me. Cheers in advance









-Matt


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kopi*


Yeah I know its some sort of tough ceramic garbage. Did you heat it up at all before hand, and did it require any of pulling force or just twisting?



I'm about to remove that as well. i read somewhere a hairdryer was used to heat it up a bit to loosen it.. I'm not sure if i'd go that far, only if I had too I guess.

I would say some twistin fo show to break it.. let me know how you fair, and I'll do the same.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royaltramp*


I need a definite answer ASAP. Is 1.56V NB safe with only the stock NB heatsink? Also, my MB temperature is at 48*C atm, and all I have open is two instances of Firefox - Is that safe?

Please reply as soon as possible. This is kind of urgent for me. Cheers in advance









-Matt


I would say put a fan on it to be on the safe side, but if you have a well ventilated case with plenty of air moving around it might be ok.

48c sounds ok, but I would keep a close eye on the temp to see how it is when the pc is under stress/load


----------



## Kopi

In a well ventilated case like stated above thats fine. I've been running that for almost 2 years on that board and its still going without a hitch.


----------



## Royaltramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


I would say put a fan on it to be on the safe side, but if you have a well ventilated case with plenty of air moving around it might be ok.

48c sounds ok, but I would keep a close eye on the temp to see how it is when the pc is under stress/load


I think the temperature either only drops very slowly, or the sensors broken, or it isn't changing much. Because it's currently at 47*C with Prime blend running for the last 6 hours. When I've finished with Prime I'll make sure I'm just idling for a good few hours and then I'll check temps again.

I don't think my case is too well ventilated, because I have hdds as the front blocking off the front fan (since I had nowhere else to put them due to the wiring). But right now I have my NB on auto, which could even be worse heh.

Last night, after various different tries I managed to boot up with my E6550 @ 3Ghz (3015Mhz) and with my RAM still at 800 @ 4-4-4-12, though I set it to 2T just to make sure it's stable. Also, since the ratio wasn't 1:1 the RAM is actually running at 799.9Mhz, but I don't think that's a difference big enough to be worth mentioning. Lets just hope this Prime blend test can go for another few hours happily









-Matt


----------



## BungalowJunkie

kopi..

I removed the nb heatsink.. and it wasnt stuck on there that bad.. the hardest thing was pinching the pushpins, and getting them out of the mobo. but after I got the first one out, the hs popped up and i was clear..

I replaced the NB with a thermaltake cl-0034, and I put a zalman ZM-NB47J on the sb..


----------



## RaBidRaBit

OK, a question for all you p5n-e gurus. I just (finally) ordered an e5200 to replace my pentium 4 and it should be here later this week. I am still on an old bios. It seems that I need to update to 1201 or 1301 to install the dual core proc. The problem being that ASUS in their infinite wisdom locked the CPU multiplier starting with 1201. I am worried that with the locked multi and the FSB hole I won't be able to get a good overclock.

My question is, is it possible to use an older(non-crippled) bios with the e5200. If not, is there a modded bios anywhere that I can use?

I was waiting for a used e6600 to become available but I couldn't wait any longer. I really don't have the funds to get a new mb. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

RR

EDIT: Exactly what frequencies does the FSB hole contain? I tried to find a definite answer in this thread but was unsuccessful.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

I believe the holes are a bit different for each chip..same goes for OC.. one guy can hit 3.6, and the next only 3.4 on the same chip.

so you wont know where the holes are until you find them.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

double. sorry


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Thanks for the reply BungalowJunkie. I know different chips give different oc results but I was under the impression that the mboard's fsb itself had a range of frequencies that it just refused to operate in. Never had to push the fsb with the pentium 4 b/c it has a 15x multi and I hit 4GHz with a 1066 FSB. Guess I'll have to wait for the new cpu to find out.

So, does anyone know a way to pair a p5n-e sli and an e5200 while still being able to change the multiplier?


----------



## Aardobard

You may be able to run the e5200 on an earlier bios. My e7200 ran ok under 0901(unsupported bios), but hit an OC wall at 3.5 GHz. After the jump to 1002 (a supported bios) I got to 3.8 GHz right away.

So you might get a better OC even with the locked multi, it just might not be the optimal, best of all possible scenarios OC.

Cheers!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


You may be able to run the e5200 on an earlier bios. My e7200 ran ok under 0901(unsupported bios), but hit an OC wall at 3.5 GHz. After the jump to 1002 (a supported bios) I got to 3.8 GHz right away.

So you might get a better OC even with the locked multi, it just might not be the optimal, best of all possible scenarios OC.

Cheers!


I'm having issues with the 12xx bios and a e7200. Everytime I pass 375mhz when I restart it pops up new CPU detected and then throws errors every which way and BSOD. I might try going back down a BIOS or two and hope that fixes the problem.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


You may be able to run the e5200 on an earlier bios. My e7200 ran ok under 0901(unsupported bios), but hit an OC wall at 3.5 GHz. After the jump to 1002 (a supported bios) I got to 3.8 GHz right away.

So you might get a better OC even with the locked multi, it just might not be the optimal, best of all possible scenarios OC.

Cheers!


Thanks. I guess I'll just have to try it and see what happens.

BTW congrats on overtaking me on [email protected] I saw you in my threats list a week or two ago. You're climbing the ranks pretty quickly! WTG


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaBidRaBit*


Thanks. I guess I'll just have to try it and see what happens.

BTW congrats on overtaking me on [email protected] I saw you in my threats list a week or two ago. You're climbing the ranks pretty quickly! WTG










Thanks! I'm whipping my GPU like it's a bad dog! =)


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
I'm having issues with the 12xx bios and a e7200. Everytime I pass 375mhz when I restart it pops up new CPU detected and then throws errors every which way and BSOD. I might try going back down a BIOS or two and hope that fixes the problem.

You get the ROMSIP table message? The last time I played with my P5N it gave me that message every time I either changed from stock to OC or vice versa. I'm not sure what's up with that,

(BTW my P5N is currently on my shelf awaiting a time when I can reach a L3 ASUS tech so he can tell me my board is fried.)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aardobard* 
You get the ROMSIP table message? The last time I played with my P5N it gave me that message every time I either changed from stock to OC or vice versa. I'm not sure what's up with that,

(BTW my P5N is currently on my shelf awaiting a time when I can reach a L3 ASUS tech so he can tell me my board is fried.)

Yeah I get the ROMSIP message when it saves the BIOS, but then on the next boot I also get a NEW CPU detected message, followed by a second reboot instantly.


----------



## chefchops

Hi just thought I'd let you know have fitted thermalright HR-05 sli to my southbridge and it is fine even with my long BFG 8800GTX. mobo temp was 51c when playing COD4 now 44c . very easy to fit. only good with one card.

also fitted new E8600 with arctic freezer 7 pro hsf (kept the thermal paste that was on the heatsink) only took a few minutes was too easy runs at 33c with mild overclock 3.6ghz.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chefchops*


Hi just thought I'd let you know have fitted thermalright HR-05 sli to my southbridge and it is fine even with my long BFG 8800GTX. mobo temp was 51c when playing COD4 now 44c . very easy to fit. only good with one card.

also fitted new E8600 with arctic freezer 7 pro hsf (kept the thermal paste that was on the heatsink) only took a few minutes was too easy runs at 33c with mild overclock 3.6ghz.


How do you get SB temps ?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RaBidRaBit* 
OK, a question for all you p5n-e gurus. I just (finally) ordered an e5200 to replace my pentium 4 and it should be here later this week. I am still on an old bios. It seems that I need to update to 1201 or 1301 to install the dual core proc. The problem being that ASUS in their infinite wisdom locked the CPU multiplier starting with 1201. I am worried that with the locked multi and the FSB hole I won't be able to get a good overclock.

My question is, is it possible to use an older(non-crippled) bios with the e5200. If not, is there a modded bios anywhere that I can use?

I was waiting for a used e6600 to become available but I couldn't wait any longer. I really don't have the funds to get a new mb. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

RR

EDIT: Exactly what frequencies does the FSB hole contain? I tried to find a definite answer in this thread but was unsuccessful.

I run the 0608 bios with an e6550 and can run stable at 475fsb, I have tried all most all the bios up to 1301 and I could not get 450 fsb stable with any of them.

But then the e5200 is a 45nm chip and might need one of the latest bios and I didnt notice if the muliplier option was locked in the 1201 or 1301, because it was set to x7 and I didnt need to change it.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.


----------



## chefchops

I didnt say I had SB temps just mobo temps from asus probe II which have come down a lot since fitting heatsink.

just gone to 3.75 ghz got 13641 on 3Dmark06. going to try for 4ghz if system stays stable.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Just to update on my progress. I flashed my bios to 1301 and upgraded the p4 with an e5200. For some reason I can only get it to use the 12x multiplier (even at stock) even though it has a 12.5x multiplier









I've got it running @ 3.5GHz--- 291.7MHz x12, vcore=1.36875(bios), NB voltage=1.56. I haven't been able to get it to go any higher than this yet. To be quite honest, I am happy with a 1GHz overclock. Its nice to go from a 34sec. 1MSuperPI with a P4 to a sub-17sec.









If anyone has any questions or advice feel free to speak up.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RaBidRaBit*


Just to update on my progress. I flashed my bios to 1301 and upgraded the p4 with an e5200. For some reason I can only get it to use the 12x multiplier (even at stock) even though it has a 12.5x multiplier









I've got it running @ 3.5GHz--- 291.7MHz x12, vcore=1.36875(bios), NB voltage=1.56. I haven't been able to get it to go any higher than this yet. To be quite honest, I am happy with a 1GHz overclock. Its nice to go from a 34sec. 1MSuperPI with a P4 to a sub-17sec.









If anyone has any questions or advice feel free to speak up.



Well done, good to hear you are happy and enjoying the performance boost








Dont think it is the NB volts holding it back, I run my NB 1.56v and 475fsb.


----------



## serge2k

I have this board and my computer has been freezing. happens randomly, more often in games or when I have GPU folding running. edit: just to be clear the computer freezes completely, no BSOD or programs crashing. Just freezes.

I really am confused as to what my settings in my bios should be.

I have this ram http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...acture=MUSHKIN and an E6750.

Most things are just set to auto right now.

I tried running prime95 (everything at stock) and it failed quickly (one thread). It's running now and seems okay (only 10 minutes though).

I'd really like some tips on how I should be setting this up/links so I can learn. I might be able to get some help at school on monday depending on my friends schedule.

edit: I just updated it to the latest bios to try and stop the freezing. It hasn't frozen yet but it's hard to tell. It's also happened in XP pro, server 2003, and the windows 7 beta.


----------



## dpawl31

Hey guys...
Most of you probably won't remember me. I've been away a LONG time.
Some of you may recognize my name - I started this thread TWO years ago. The last time I visited OCN was probably 6 months or more.

I started a family owned sub shop, and since then- 70+ hours a week and no time to hobby.
I did bring my rig over to a friends house to help solve some issues he was having at his house.
After that - the rig sat at my house unplugged and dusty for months.
Now I have some time - decided to upgrade a few things slowly and then get a fresh start on it.

I have run into a major problem. I started it up - and I got no boot, no video.
I unplugged, removed CMOS, cleared CMOS jumper, replaced batt and plugged in. Same thing. Activity light hangs solid for about 30 seconds then stops all together.
I tried starting up with the CMOS batt removed. Same deal. I unhooked drives. Nothing. Took out the memory. Nothing.
I am very worried.

I have not tried a different video card. But I do notice the activity light should not be solid on like that for that long and then just stop.

I will be bringing home a different video card from work tonight to test that. If that doesn't work, I will try reseating the CPU. But even if it is the CPU - I should be getting some visual and a checksum error right?

Anyway - I am back. I intend to get my rig running again, and then start updating the beginning page of this thread with all your help. I have a 320gig SATA drive and 2x2GB Ballistix Tracers on the way. Hopefully I can get this thing running tonight... I am at wits end. At one point I had cheap ram, all IDE drives and a 'junky' old D820... running @ 3.7Ghz stable. Now I am stuck with a PC that won't run and a inner sadness.









So if anyone has any ideas- hit me.
Also, if you have ANY info to be updated on page 1 of this thread- PLEASE PM me, it's a lot easier to organize info if you PM me instead.

Thanks guys... hope to be back in the P5N-E family again soon... maybe some of my old friends are still in the thread!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


... maybe some of my old friends are still in the thread!











I still pop in once and a while just to answer the "how do I get my Q6600 over 3.0GHz on the P5N-E SLI?" question with "you probably can't due to the 3 phase VRM"

I finally cooked my D820 and RMAd for a new one (they sent a B0 stepping instead of A1 and I never even opened the box)- while I was waiting bought the Q6600, couldn't get it past 3.0 on the P5N-E, and sprung for the Maximus......

My old P5N-E and D820 got sold to a friend, who added a 9800GTX and runs it all stock.....


----------



## dpawl31

Hey Ravin! Well you sure as hell stayed up to date with the hobby... hah.
I can't wait to start more upgrades... god, I may just have to break down and get a new board/cpu now... I hope not though. I really love pushing the limits and my D820 was doing great... now I am stuck.


----------



## gtz

Before I start I would like to thank diddler1979 for making a guide on how to achieve 3.0 on a Q6600.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

The guide really helped me out. Diddler1979 also provides you with a Boot CD with BIOS 0608, 0703, 0801, 0803, 0901 &1002 Beta. All you would need to do is burn the image to a cd.

First thing you need to do is to downgrade to BIOS 608. With the newer BIOS the highest I could reach was 2.8. This is where diddler1979 boot cd comes in handy.

Well here are all my BIOS settings under the Advanced Tab

JumperFree Configuration
AI TuningManual

Overclock OptionsDisabled

System Clock
NB PCIE Frequency100

Voltage Control
Vcore Voltage1.32500 V
Memory Voltage2.085 V
NB Voltage1.563 V
Vcore Offset+100mv (Giving me a total of 1.42500 volts, this board has horrible vdroop with quads that is why I need to give it that much voltage, drops under load all the way to 1.29)

FSB and Memory Configuration
FSB-Memory ClockUnlinked
FSB-Memory RatioAuto
FSB QDR, MHz1333
FSB DDR, MHz667 (1:1 is necessary for it to be stable, I ran it at 800 and 1000 and I would either get lock ups or blue screens)

SLI-Ready MemoryDisabled

CPU Configuration
CPU Multiplier9
CPU Thermal ControlAuto
Everything elseDisabled

Chipset
Memory Settings
tCL5
tRCD5
tRP5
tRAS15
CMD2 clock (I know these are really loose timings for running at 667 but if I run them at the ram specs of 4-4-4-10 it gives me stability problems)
Everything elseAuto

Spread Spectrum Control Everything Disabled

SLI Broadcast ApertureDisabled

LDT Frequency5x

PCIPnP
Plug and Play O/SNo

Primary Display AdapterPCI-E

Onboard Device Configuration
IDE FunctionEverything Enabled

NV RAID ConfigurationEverything Disabled

HD AudioEnabled

Front Audio SupportHD Audio (Depends on your case)

Onboard nVidia LANDisabled (This is a must for me since I have a wireless card and interferes)

Onboard LAN Boot ROMDisabled

Onboard 1394Disabled

JMIcron SATADisabled

Serial Port 1 Address3F8/IRQ4

Parallel Port Address378/IRQ7

Parallel Port ModeEPP

ECP Mode UseDMA 3

USB Configuration
USB ControllerEnabled

USB LegacyDisabled (If you have a USB Keyboard/Mouse keep this enabled)

USB 2.0Disabled

With the settings above I have been running stable for over a week. Ran OCCT for 4 hours and played thru Crysis and so far no crashed (knock on wood)

CPU-Z Validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=498603


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hey Ravin! Well you sure as hell stayed up to date with the hobby... hah.
I can't wait to start more upgrades... god, I may just have to break down and get a new board/cpu now... I hope not though. I really love pushing the limits and my D820 was doing great... now I am stuck.


Yea- the Q6600 was planned, and the Maximus a splurge when the P5N-E just would not pass 3.0 stable. The 4x1Gb was out of "necessity" because the Maximus just kept eating D9GMH Crucials like they were potato chips. I got tired of the monthly RMAs, so I retired the last set of D9s and got the Elpidas. Then came the HD4870- a planned and much needed upgrade from the 7600GT.

And the HDDs on order....well, I've maxed out my 2x80Gb array, and have another 200Gb IDE drive full and only one IDE connector on board. I think 3Tb should hold me a while.....

That said I think this build is done with upgrades for a good long while. Hopefully it lasts as long as my dual PIII rig did.
*Edit....oh yea....I also finally got new speakers like you kept telling me....*
Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtz*


Before I start I would like to thank diddler1979 for making a guide on how to achieve 3.0 on a Q6600.

http://
http://www.overclock....ml#post3489821

Voltage Control
*Vcore Voltage1.32500 V*Memory Voltage2.085 V
NB Voltage1.563 V
Vcore Offset+100mv (Giving me a total of 1.42500 volts, this board has horrible vdroop with quads that is why I need to give it that much voltage, drops under load all the way to 1.29)

[/url]


Are you sure that you need that much Vcore? I know that all chips are different, but my Q6600 only needs 1.2000V (after droop) to be stable at 3.0GHz (on both the P5NE and Maximus). I actually found that the P5N-E became unstable at about 1.30V with my quad- and no voltage above the minimum for 3.0GHz helped OC further- stable or otherwise.


----------



## gtz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Are you sure that you need that much Vcore? I know that all chips are different, but my Q6600 only needs 1.2000V (after droop) to be stable at 3.0GHz (on both the P5NE and Maximus). I actually found that the P5N-E became unstable at about 1.30V with my quad- and no voltage above the minimum for 3.0GHz helped OC further- stable or otherwise.


Your chip must be much better than mine. I need to give it that much voltage to reach 3.0. At or below 1.27 (after vdroop) my system freezez. I first noticed this when I stress tested it the first time and it froze and speedfan read 1.27. Wierd how both boards react different to voltage. I guess like you said everything is different.

I posted this up becuase somebody sent me a pm wanting to know my bios settings and decided to post it here on this thread instead of creating a different thread.


----------



## chaotic-control

Hi, I have been reading up on overclocking for some time and have tried to, but my system always fails to boot and so reverts back to normal settings.

Basically, with my set-up I just wanna know rough ballpark figures for like voltages to go with upped fsb, as i dont really know what sort of voltage i should put with for example 1333 fsb. Any other advice would be very helpful.

Any more info of course just ask. I will just appreciate the help.

Thanks.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hey guys... 
Most of you probably won't remember me. I've been away a LONG time.
Some of you may recognize my name - I started this thread TWO years ago. The last time I visited OCN was probably 6 months or more.


Welcome back. I'm sorry to hear about your unhappy surprise. The only thing I can add is to yank it out, take everything apart, blow a whole can of dust-be-gone all over everything and put it all back together, all while giving it stern talking to.

Good luck!


----------



## Asce

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Thanks guys... hope to be back in the P5N-E family again soon... maybe some of my old friends are still in the thread!











Hey dude, definatly a long time no see. I pop in every now and then. Ive still got the P5N-E, its now sat in a spare case.


----------



## Royaltramp

I'd like to ask a couple of questions, along with a repeat of a previous question, where I was a little wary of the answer/s I got.

I'm currently running with my CPU at:
3015MHz 1722FSB @ 1.325V (stock is 2333MHz, 1333FSB @ 1.35V)

And I have my RAM set at:
800MHz 4-4-4-12 1T @ 2.17V (stock is 800MHz 4-4-4-12 2T @ 2.1V)

Now previously 1T would give me a massive boost of around 2000MB/s extra read speed, not sure about the write/etc but they were also large, but due to my dodgy ratio, I'm no longer seeing the benefit. What I wanted to do is set the RAM to 861Mhz, and try and keep the 4-4-4-12 1T timings if possible, and if not, settle for 2T. As I believe the 1:1 ratio would have a massive benefit in my case.

Now I have a problem. Right now I can't get a stable overclock from my memory, even to 861Mhz with 5-5-5-18 2T timings. Now there's two things I see, one or both of which could be to blame.

1) My NB voltage is set to auto. Setting it to 1.56V might help, but I haven't got any money, and I don't have a fan or any additional cooling on the NB, so it could be risky.

2) My RAM is in the yellow slots, which lots of P5N-E owners complain about. It may run fine at stock, but it's possible that the yellow slots could be what's stopping me from overclocking.

If my case is quite warm as it is, would 1.56V be a risky manoeuvre if I'm not putting any extra cooling on the NB? I'd like to know if anyone here is running at 1.56V or higher with just the stock heatsink and no additional cooling, and has done so for a relatively long time.

As for the slots, I'm going to move the RAM to the black slots a bit later either way.

-Matt


----------



## AgentJadeD

having your NB voltage at 1.56 is fine. I have mine set to that. with no fan on it. crank it up!


----------



## dpawl31

Good to see you guys again...

Unfortunately, it seems my board is toast. 
I have yet to pull the whole thing and dust it and try again - that will be my last ditch effort now. And obviously there are better options out there then buying another P5N-E.
I think I will be looking @ a mobo/Q6700 combo on tiger direct or something similar. I need the most bang for the buck, with 4GB DDR2 and to be able to still use my dinosaur GPU till I upgrade that. So I am looking for a new board/cpu/cpu cooler now.
I can't decide









I really am going to miss the P5N-E. But on the other hand, I will be around here more whilst building the new rig so I can have you guys help me update the front page. I'll still get that taken care of. PM me with anything you want to change. Any suggestions for a new setup, PM me!

Thanks guys.... 837 pages... from 1 post 2 years ago. Amazing.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Good to see you guys again...

Unfortunately, it seems my board is toast. 
I have yet to pull the whole thing and dust it and try again - that will be my last ditch effort now. And obviously there are better options out there then buying another P5N-E.
I think I will be looking @ a mobo/Q6700 combo on tiger direct or something similar. I need the most bang for the buck, with 4GB DDR2 and to be able to still use my dinosaur GPU till I upgrade that. So I am looking for a new board/cpu/cpu cooler now.
I can't decide









I really am going to miss the P5N-E. But on the other hand, I will be around here more whilst building the new rig so I can have you guys help me update the front page. I'll still get that taken care of. PM me with anything you want to change. Any suggestions for a new setup, PM me!

Thanks guys.... 837 pages... from 1 post 2 years ago. Amazing.


See if you can grab an open box Rampage/Maximus Formula or P5E from Newegg. The Rampage BIOS is interchangable across the entire family.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
See if you can grab an open box Rampage/Maximus Formula or P5E from Newegg. The Rampage BIOS is interchangable across the entire family.

OpenBox Maximus formula II for $135...

What's the best price/performance CPU right now?
I was looking @ quad but not sure if it's worth the extra heat?
I need a new cooler too, not so sure the Freezer 7 Pro will do it anymore.


----------



## gtz

I never thanked you dpawl31. I bought my P5N-E over the summer and before my motherboard arrived I googled overclocking P5N-E (I have never overclocked before) and this page came up. This thread helped me out a lot since I was a noob (still am). I managed to get me e4400 to 3.4 and the motherboard never complained. I recently bought a Q6600 and the max I could hit was 3.0, but still a quad at 3.0 is nice.

As far as best bang for the buck cpu you could get a e8400 or a q6600. I managed to get my q6600 open box at the egg for 127 dollars. Your cpu cooler might do. The Artic Freezer Pro gets better reviews than my cooler master tx2 and the highest I have seen my quad @ 3.0 under stress testing was 62 degress. Seeing we both have Antec 900 we might get similar temps.

So anyways thanks for the thread


----------



## thunder12

do you guys reckon the latest bios will be any good for quad cores or will i still be restricted to 2.9ghz haha?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


OpenBox Maximus formula II for $135...

What's the best price/performance CPU right now?
I was looking @ quad but not sure if it's worth the extra heat?
I need a new cooler too, not so sure the Freezer 7 Pro will do it anymore.


45nm quads can max volts before they get too hot on a decent cooler. If that Freezer 7 Pro kept that D820 nuclear reactor under control it should be sufficient for even a 65nm quad. Heck, the stock intel cooler did better for my Q6600 than it did for my D820.

IMHO a new Q9550 is on a good price point and great OCer.


----------



## dpawl31

*gtz*- No problem! I started this because I found ZERO resources when I bought the board with the first BIOS revision and nobody knew a thing about it. I stopped coming here about a year ago due to a family business starting up - and I just checked my PMs today... 602... I only had 5 when I left O_O

*Ravin*- The Freezer did me good... only problem is when I was pulling it out it got stuck and I broke one of the mount pins. I actually wanted to lap that thing too. I have a stock intel cooler in there now, if I can get one of those pins out, they are the same so maybe I can get the freezer going.
As far as the processor - I don't have that kind of cash! lol
I think it's going to be the E8400. Going from a D820 to that should be night and day for sure. Hell, D820 to a new celeron would be night and day. hah.
I am a little worried about getting the Formula II open box just due to the fact if I don't get the sound card - I'll be soundless till I can afford a sound card.

I think to save cashflow for now I may just get the board. _Maybeeee_ get the E8400. Then GPU and sound card after that.
I really am going to miss this thread...







Being back for the first time in a long time really made me miss it. Hell, I was the first one to get a single motherboard model _STICKIED_ in the Intel MB section! hah.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Royaltramp* 
I'd like to ask a couple of questions, along with a repeat of a previous question, where I was a little wary of the answer/s I got.

I'm currently running with my CPU at:
3015MHz 1722FSB @ 1.325V (stock is 2333MHz, 1333FSB @ 1.35V)

And I have my RAM set at:
800MHz 4-4-4-12 1T @ 2.17V (stock is 800MHz 4-4-4-12 2T @ 2.1V)

Now previously 1T would give me a massive boost of around 2000MB/s extra read speed, not sure about the write/etc but they were also large, but due to my dodgy ratio, I'm no longer seeing the benefit. What I wanted to do is set the RAM to 861Mhz, and try and keep the 4-4-4-12 1T timings if possible, and if not, settle for 2T. As I believe the 1:1 ratio would have a massive benefit in my case.

Now I have a problem. Right now I can't get a stable overclock from my memory, even to 861Mhz with 5-5-5-18 2T timings. Now there's two things I see, one or both of which could be to blame.

1) My NB voltage is set to auto. Setting it to 1.56V might help, but I haven't got any money, and I don't have a fan or any additional cooling on the NB, so it could be risky.

2) My RAM is in the yellow slots, which lots of P5N-E owners complain about. It may run fine at stock, but it's possible that the yellow slots could be what's stopping me from overclocking.

If my case is quite warm as it is, would 1.56V be a risky manoeuvre if I'm not putting any extra cooling on the NB? I'd like to know if anyone here is running at 1.56V or higher with just the stock heatsink and no additional cooling, and has done so for a relatively long time.

As for the slots, I'm going to move the RAM to the black slots a bit later either way.

-Matt

I have my nb set at 1.56 with stock heatsink and have no problems. I've only had it set there since I upgraded my cpu a couple weeks ago, but it has been running 24/7 (folding most of that time) with no problems. You should be fine.

dpawl: good to see you back. This thread is one of the reasons I bought this board so long ago. +rep


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I am a little worried about getting the Formula II open box just due to the fact if I don't get the sound card - I'll be soundless till I can afford a sound card.

You should be able to run the jumpers from the board to the front panel of the case......AFAIK the sound card is just a PCIe output and does not actually process audio.


----------



## dpawl31

I think it actually does some processing, it's actaully EAX 4.0 certified.

Anyway - I think I am going to go for the board, and stick with the CPU/GPU for now.

What do I have to worry about with an open box board? Anything?


----------



## reezin14

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I think it actually does some processing, it's actaully EAX 4.0 certified.

Anyway - I think I am going to go for the board, and stick with the CPU/GPU for now.

What do I have to worry about with an open box board? Anything?


The only worry is what accessories will come with it,driver disk,I/O sheild and cables. Other than that it should be fine.


----------



## dpawl31

Crap... I really want the I/O shield... should not be hard to get direct from Asus though. And I have all the needed cables, I just want the shield and the audio card...


----------



## dpawl31

What luck have you guys had with RMA?

I was thinking after I get an upgraded board, I want my P5N-E working for the D820 to have a PC to rebuild and sell to a friend.
I have had the board over 2 years now, and can probably get a copy of the invoice from ZipZoomFly.


----------



## Ravin

Dunno.....never had to RMA an ASUS before.


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


What luck have you guys had with RMA?

I was thinking after I get an upgraded board, I want my P5N-E working for the D820 to have a PC to rebuild and sell to a friend.
I have had the board over 2 years now, and can probably get a copy of the invoice from ZipZoomFly.


I've had a decent experience. The first time I sent the board in, it came back repaired in two weeks from the ship date. The second time I RMA'd, it was returned in less time, but was not repaired. I have (just yesterday) received a replacement tech-tested board via cross-ship for the second/third RMA for a total of about 5 weeks downtime.


----------



## BIGWORM

Hi folks.

New to the P5N-e club. I guess I have a pretty suitable processor and memory, both being a lapped e6750 and Tracers DDR2-800, but I've recently run into a big problem, with a proceeding big post ahead:

K, I had a sound card installed in the system, a SB Audigy Platinum. I had recently removed it because I wanted to put an 80mm fan directly below my 8800GT for better airflow, so I decided to yank it and run onboard sound, and learn to deal with it. Well, I couldn't deal with it, the crappy sound in comparison. This was AC97 (Case doesn't have an HDA panel). At the point of putting the audigy back in, I decided to upgrade to beta graphics card drivers, the 182.05s from nVidia.

Anyway, I put the Audigy back into my system, and that's seemingly where the problem starts. After about 3 or so minutes of gaming, my system would hard lock completely, and ALWAYS with a high-pitched sound, so my first thought was to remove the sound drivers (not the card itself) at this point, driver sweep the system of anything Creative, and reinstall again. NOTHING! Next, I tried going back to nvidia's 181.22s, drivers which I've had absolutely no problems in the past with...NOTHING! I was thinking maybe for some reason or another it was the 80mm that I had sat under the GPU was messing with it for whatever reason...NOPE!

I've yet to take out the sound card, because I honestly don't think that's the problem. I had noticed when I put in the sound card, for whatever reason, I had lost my BIOS settings (refused to POST), and I had to pull the CMOS battery and re-apply my settings. Before I post my BIOS settings, I would also like to point out that whenever I set something different in my BIOS, the motherboard completely shuts down and restarts--that had never happened before until right now. Now for the BIOS:
=========================================
*CPU:*

*UNLINKED*
Clock: 3.5GHz
FSB: 438/1752 (QDR)
Mutli: 8x

*Voltages:*

vCore: 1.4 (with auto voltage = 1.5
NB: 1.56
Memory: ~2.19

*RAM:*

4-4-4-12-2T
Misc. settings all auto

*MISC/CPU Config:*

LDT: 3x
All CPU settings except for XD Bit are disabled
PCI-E FSB: 100MHz (NEVER touching that)
IDE options are all disabled (running SATA optical and HDD)
==========================================

Now, I had noticed my CPU was sluggish loading games like Mirror's Edge even on the default BIOS. Only when the BIOS was completely default would it actually behave, though sluggish on the loading, it would behave. Just ran OCCT Large Data for the past 4 hours, and it passed with no errors. The games that were crashing on me were high-end games like GRID, Mirror's Edge, Burnout Paradise--never tested anything else. Little, minor (but obvious) annoyances like explorer.exe crashing intermittently were starting to pop up. I was typing this up before while backing up data to Nero 8 and BOTH Firefox and Nero SIMULTANEOUSLY! WHAT!!?

I'm now on Windows 7 public beta (was on XP Pro SP3 previously). This is the OS that passed OCCT for 4 hours, but with a weird CPU usage spike that I had never seen before. OCCT Large Data failed within 1 minutes back on XP. =( Could this honestly be something as simple as the CMOS battery needing to be replaced? Corrupted BIOS for whatever reason? I've been pulling my hair trying to figure out what the problem is, and since virtually everyone in this thread have quite the experience with this board (my experience is < 2 weeks), I call on you guys for help!!

I've attached my OCCT Large results. Thanks for any help. No tl;dr version LOL!


----------



## dpawl31

Your sig rig is a P5N32-E... or is that not the setup you are talking about?


----------



## BIGWORM

Sorry, that IS a P5N-E SLi I have right now.

Typo. ^^;


----------



## BIGWORM

Can I get ANY help on this?


----------



## Aardobard

Ok Bigworm, go ahead and pull everything non-essential off your board and run it at stock speeds and benchmark it. That will give us a baseline to work from. If you lose your bios settings again, you may need to replace the battery.

If your box is stable at stock/essential, then you can start adding components in one at a time. Once they are all in, start your OC back up.

Hopefully this will give you some info as to whether you have a simple driver issue or a hardware issue.


----------



## BIGWORM

Update:

I've replaced the battery. One thing I noticed right off the bat is the tower stopped powering down whenever I changed BIOS settings. Ran GRID Demo v1.1 for 45 minutes, and it played fine. On the other hand, played TF2 for about half an hour and it hard-locked my system again...


----------



## dpawl31

Sounds like temp issues or memory to me.

What are your temps like?

Have you run memtest @ full stock speeds on everything?


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Can I get ANY help on this?


did the problems start while you were on Windows 7 and after you pulled your audio card out?

Perhaps win 7 is messing with you. also it does seem like a temp issue. is there anything interfering with the fan on your gpu? I've done that before, and games lock right up.

system restore?

and dont assume its not the audio card.. like suggested above, pull everything else, stock speeds, and i would leave only 1 stick of memory in there until you get things stable again.

dpawl31:

yes and another thanks to you for this thread. I came across this thread a long time ago, and helped me choose the p5n-e.. and with you and help from the members, I was able to get a good understanding of the board, and OC'n.. im just waiting on a new cpu cooler so I can crank her up some more!


----------



## BIGWORM

Fixed my problem. Turns out I was overvolting my CPU to the borderline--1.5v just to overclock it to 3.2. I've turned down the volts back to stock (1.35). I'm OCCT and Orthos stable on 3.2GHz at 1.35v. As an extra precaution, I went back to stock clocks for my RAM, which is 4-4-4-12-1T, though I may play around with that later. My temps before were like 42c/~64c on idle/load, respectively. Now they're 28c/52c. My crappy TT Golden Orb II doesn't help with the temps. Can anyone suggest a cheap-ish but good HSF?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Fixed my problem. Turns out I was overvolting my CPU to the borderline--1.5v just to overclock it to 3.2. I've turned down the volts back to stock (1.35). I'm OCCT and Orthos stable on 3.2GHz at 1.35v. As an extra precaution, I went back to stock clocks for my RAM, which is 4-4-4-12-1T, though I may play around with that later. My temps before were like 42c/~64c on idle/load, respectively. Now they're 28c/52c. My crappy TT Golden Orb II doesn't help with the temps. Can anyone suggest a cheap-ish but good HSF?


Check out the link in my sig (unless you want to do a lot of research yourself)


----------



## No1Joker

Hi there,
i'm another noob about to OC my E6600. I'm on stock HSF at the mo and wanted to see the effect of a cautious OC. Will then fork out for the Thermalright Ultra-120 highly reccomended by Aardobard (and others i see) to get closer to 3.5ghz

Installed Orthos, CPU-Z, Core-Temp and 3dMArk06 for all the testing monitoring etc.
I have run Orthos overnight (about 8 hrs) and it passed all the tests. The Asus PC Probe II and CPU-Z both have my vCore as 1.30v

I have OCZ Gold DDR2 RAM 800Mhz. Am I right in thinking that a 400FSB would give me a 1:1 ratio people are talking about? (this is for stability ... right?)
I'll give it a go this weekend and let you know how i'm doing.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Fixed my problem. Turns out I was overvolting my CPU to the borderline--1.5v just to overclock it to 3.2. I've turned down the volts back to stock (1.35). I'm OCCT and Orthos stable on 3.2GHz at 1.35v. As an extra precaution, I went back to stock clocks for my RAM, which is 4-4-4-12-1T, though I may play around with that later. My temps before were like 42c/~64c on idle/load, respectively. Now they're 28c/52c. My crappy TT Golden Orb II doesn't help with the temps. Can anyone suggest a cheap-ish but good HSF?


Freezer 7 Pro... definately cheap, and it keeps my dual prescott cores even @ 3.7Ghz under 57c at full load, and that was with TWO layers of stock TIM.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
Hi there,
i'm another noob about to OC my E6600. I'm on stock HSF at the mo and wanted to see the effect of a cautious OC. Will then fork out for the Thermalright Ultra-120 highly reccomended by Aardobard (and others i see) to get closer to 3.5ghz

Installed Orthos, CPU-Z, Core-Temp and 3dMArk06 for all the testing monitoring etc.
I have run Orthos overnight (about 8 hrs) and it passed all the tests. The Asus PC Probe II and CPU-Z both have my vCore as 1.30v

I have OCZ Gold DDR2 RAM 800Mhz. Am I right in thinking that a 400FSB would give me a 1:1 ratio people are talking about? (this is for stability ... right?)
I'll give it a go this weekend and let you know how i'm doing.

Hey, I don't have a lot of time right now (still getting my re-build back up and running, new XP install etc) But firstly you need to manually set ALL voltages, memory timings etc.
I will tell you if you have the same RAM I used to run (OCZ gold 2x512mb) then you will be OK to run everything except overclocking. They are OK for overclocking a bit, but not much.

400 FSB with 1:1 yes memory is dual data rate so yes, that is ideal.


----------



## Ealae

Is anybody running Windows 7 x64 with the P5N-E SLI? I'm having a little trouble finding the right motherboard drivers. I only need the ethernet driver, so I downloaded 15.23 for Vista 64bit, from Nvidia's site. Hopefully this works.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hey, I don't have a lot of time right now (still getting my re-build back up and running, new XP install etc) But firstly you need to manually set ALL voltages, memory timings etc.
I will tell you if you have the same RAM I used to run (OCZ gold 2x512mb) then you will be OK to run everything except overclocking. They are OK for overclocking a bit, but not much.

400 FSB with 1:1 yes memory is dual data rate so yes, that is ideal.


RAM is set to factory 5-5-5-15 timings,
Before any OC my temps are 30/31 Idle and 50 at 100% (In Orthos Small FFTs)

First i'll see how high the FSB will go before i hit 57 C on the Orthos Test or my machine BSoDs or doesn't boot etc.


----------



## No1Joker

Just a quick update on my OC. I have used Stock cooling and managed to reach 2.9GHz with my core temp reaching 58/59C on Orthos.

I'll see when i can afford to get some cooling and with that i'll have more confidence to up the vCore if req, to get a bit closer to the 3.5GHz others have got.

Thanks very much for the advice and help people have taken the time to produce. I'm glad i bought a suitable Mobo and Chip all those months ago.

HSF will be added to my future shopping list!


----------



## zomgiwin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ealae* 
Is anybody running Windows 7 x64 with the P5N-E SLI? I'm having a little trouble finding the right motherboard drivers. I only need the ethernet driver, so I downloaded 15.23 for Vista 64bit, from Nvidia's site. Hopefully this works.

ran fine for me
just make sure you have your network plugged in upon install
it has the drivers for you auto


----------



## Zippit

Sorry guys... I'll be leaving you soon! I'm getting a 780i FTW for 40 euros from a friend.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ealae*


Is anybody running Windows 7 x64 with the P5N-E SLI? I'm having a little trouble finding the right motherboard drivers. I only need the ethernet driver, so I downloaded 15.23 for Vista 64bit, from Nvidia's site. Hopefully this works.


should work that is the one i used


----------



## BIGWORM

Quick question guys. I'm trying to keep my voltages down as low as possible with my current OC of 3.2GHz, but no matter how low I set the voltage in the BIOS, CPU-z still sees 1.44v. In the BIOS I have the vCore set to 1.15v with the vCore offset voltage setup to +100mv. Any ideas? CoreTemp reports the vid at 1.35, btw.


----------



## zomgiwin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Quick question guys. I'm trying to keep my voltages down as low as possible with my current OC of 3.2GHz, but no matter how low I set the voltage in the BIOS, CPU-z still sees 1.44v. In the BIOS I have the vCore set to 1.15v with the vCore offset voltage setup to +100mv. Any ideas? CoreTemp reports the vid at 1.35, btw.

my personal experience is the only thing that can tell you your voltages correctly with this board is regretfully PC Probe II by Asus
get it, and use it to monitor your vcore properly
then cry at your vdroop


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zomgiwin*


my personal experience is the only thing that can tell you your voltages correctly with this board is regretfully PC Probe II by Asus
get it, and use it to monitor your vcore properly
then cry at your vdroop


My fluke DMM was within .005V of PC ProbeII. You can trust PCProbe.


----------



## turk-fx

Hi guys. I got this board last week as a bargain. i put my E6750. somehow its auto voltage is 1.35v.

i couldnt use my current rams. 2x2gb patriot viper and 4x1 gn geil dragon 1066mhz.now i am using crucial single 2x 1gb(not a kit)channel 533mhz ram. i am about to get a good deal on patriot SLI-ready memory. since this board supports sli-ready memmory should it work without any problem?

my other question is i want to overclock this board. but even manual settings to 333fbs, 8x multi doesnt boot. this board has really bad overclock recovery.

is there anyone with E6750 here? can you just send me your settings?


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *turk-fx* 
Hi guys. I got this board last week as a bargain. i put my E6750. somehow its auto voltage is 1.35v.

i couldnt use my current rams. 2x2gb patriot viper and 4x1 gn geil dragon 1066mhz.now i am using crucial single 2x 1gb(not a kit)channel 533mhz ram. i am about to get a good deal on patriot SLI-ready memory. since this board supports sli-ready memmory should it work without any problem?

my other question is i want to overclock this board. but even manual settings to 333fbs, 8x multi doesnt boot. this board has really bad overclock recovery.

is there anyone with E6750 here? can you just send me your settings?

LOL! I have the same CPU as you.

Firstly, this board is VERY finicky about RAM. Check the first post.

Secondly, KEEP SLi-MEMORY DISABLED IN THE BIOS!!!

*edit* After downloading PC Probe II :sadface:, I find that I've been running stable 3.2GHz at 1.28v. DAMN! So I guess hitting 3.5GHz on 1.42 isn't happening? Just curious. I've been my voltage back up to stock (1.26v + Offset ON in BIOS = 1.35v), and I'm running at 3.4GHz IntelBurnTest stable right now.


----------



## No1Joker

Have bought a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 to replace the stock. Found someone local selling it brand new with the mobo back-plate for Â£25, plus there is some TIM thrown in (Xigmatek PTI-G3801). So figured i got a good bang for my buck there.

Hopefully that'll get fitted next week. Just need to find a good install guide - anyone know one by chance? especially with the back plate...


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
Have bought a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 to replace the stock. Found someone local selling it brand new with the mobo back-plate for Â£25, plus there is some TIM thrown in (Xigmatek PTI-G3801). So figured i got a good bang for my buck there.

Hopefully that'll get fitted next week. Just need to find a good install guide - anyone know one by chance? especially with the back plate...

http://www.xigmatek.com/download/HDT...usermanual.pdf

Install guide straight from Xigmatek's site.

Download Adobe Reader to view it.


----------



## SickStew

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


Have bought a Xigmatek HDT-S1283 to replace the stock. Found someone local selling it brand new with the mobo back-plate for Â£25, plus there is some TIM thrown in (Xigmatek PTI-G3801). So figured i got a good bang for my buck there.

Hopefully that'll get fitted next week. Just need to find a good install guide - anyone know one by chance? especially with the back plate...


Nice Choice

These P5N-E SLI Top out at 1800QDR (450FSB) on Dual Cores 
& 1400QDR (350FSB) on Quads

I use GeIL Memory it works perfectly @ 1:1 ratio it also run at 1066MHz overclocked

You should be able to achieve 3.3 to 3.6GHz on your E6600

P5N-E SLI is a fantastic Dual Core Overclocker.

I got my E7200 VID 1.075v to 4.09GHz with 1.3625 Vcore Stable.


----------



## cry.w07f

OK, so last time i was on here i was running Win XP, only had 2GB of XMS2 RAM and had a junk GFX card and was running in the XBlade case.

Well you can check my system stats now since i've upgraded quite a bit due to my tax refund. =)

I'm looking to OC this thing tonight, though, i believe my CPU Multi is locked and i cannot afford a C2D/C2Q atm.

Any helpful tips would be greatly apreciated.


----------



## cry.w07f

Got it to 4.03 Ghz @ 1.31 VCore.

FSB:RAM Ratio is 15:22 ... trying to get 1:1 but it will not let me change my RAM independently from my CPU FSB. I have BIOS 1101.

need sleep now.. will tweak more when i have time.


----------



## BIGWORM

Upgrade to BIOS 1301.


----------



## dpawl31

Hey guys, just a heads up.
When you are ready to make the move to another board most people "don't like" like I did back in the day 2 years ago when I started this thread -
Check out the P5QC.

P45 chipset. Took my D820 which was maxed @ 3.7Ghz on the P5N-E to 4.2Ghz tonight (not stable) but 4Ghz complete stable.
4.2Ghz shouldn't take me much at all to stabilize, I was in XP and running fine but failed orthos after 13 seconds of gromacs core.
My goal is 4.5 on air...


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


http://www.xigmatek.com/download/HDT...usermanual.pdf

Install guide straight from Xigmatek's site.

Download Adobe Reader to view it.


Thanks Bigworm, i also found a few photos on this site from people who have installed the back-plate. Just trying to decide whether to get the Xig lapped with those HDT?? Hmmmm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SickStew*


Nice Choice

These P5N-E SLI Top out at 1800QDR (450FSB) on Dual Cores 
& 1400QDR (350FSB) on Quads

I use GeIL Memory it works perfectly @ 1:1 ratio it also run at 1066MHz overclocked

You should be able to achieve 3.3 to 3.6GHz on your E6600

P5N-E SLI is a fantastic Dual Core Overclocker.

I got my E7200 VID 1.075v to 4.09GHz with 1.3625 Vcore Stable.


ATM i'm 34/57 (Idle/Load) on Stock HSF running 2.9GHz with 1.250 VCore (with a recommended +100Mhz) puts it effectively 1.320V.

Next target, with new XIG (possibly lapped) and installed, will be 400FSB so i'm running 3.6Ghz and the mem is 1:1 as you said. Hopefully the new HSF will keep the temps under control because at some point that Vcore is gonna have to go up!!

I'll let you know how i get on, and whether someone convinces me its worth the sandpaper work!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Hey guys, just a heads up.
When you are ready to make the move to another board most people "don't like" like I did back in the day 2 years ago when I started this thread -
Check out the P5QC.

P45 chipset. Took my D820 which was maxed @ 3.7Ghz on the P5N-E to 4.2Ghz tonight (not stable) but 4Ghz complete stable.
4.2Ghz shouldn't take me much at all to stabilize, I was in XP and running fine but failed orthos after 13 seconds of gromacs core.
My goal is 4.5 on air...










Is it just me, or does anyone else feel like Darth Vader is trying to lure us "Lukes" to the dark side!!







Feel the force


----------



## BIGWORM

What program should I use to test the effectiveness of an OC? I had bumped my system to 3.5GHz with a 1:1 ratio, but going from 3.2 to 3.5GHz (1:1 ratio still), I had lost 1000MB/s memory read in Everest. That was pretty much the only benchmark I had used, which was pretty dumb of me. What should I use to test the effectiveness of the overclock, steering away from stability? I've already proven its stable with IntelBurnTest (Max/5 runs).

Right now I have my system at 3.35GHz, 418 FSB, 1:1 ratio, as this OC has the best memory read in Everest, 10,905MB/s. I'm idling right now at 29c, with a load of ~54c in-game. IntelBurnTest gave me a load temp of 64c. Suggestions?


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


What program should I use to test the effectiveness of an OC? I had bumped my system to 3.5GHz with a 1:1 ratio, but going from 3.2 to 3.5GHz (1:1 ratio still), I had lost 1000MB/s memory read in Everest. That was pretty much the only benchmark I had used, which was pretty dumb of me. What should I use to test the effectiveness of the overclock, steering away from stability? I've already proven its stable with IntelBurnTest (Max/5 runs).

Right now I have my system at 3.35GHz, 418 FSB, 1:1 ratio, as this OC has the best memory read in Everest, 10,905MB/s. I'm idling right now at 29c, with a load of ~54c in-game. IntelBurnTest gave me a load temp of 64c. Suggestions?


3dmark06 is good. I would pay attention to the CPU scores and the overall score.


----------



## No1Joker

Ok, in case you want come sort of comparison (dunno if its relevant or helps) i ran 3dmark06 too. My overall score was 5307 (TBH this feels low!) and CPU was 2509. This is with the rig in my details, Stock cooling though.

Does anyone feel the need to point and laugh at these results?? I don't mind just be nice to see where i can improve...

EDIT: Just added a screenshot of Orthos, Core Temp, CPU-Z and PC Probe II. I just wondered if an experienced eye could tell me if anything looks unusual or something i am doing obviously wrong.


----------



## BIGWORM

What's your ratio? RAM speed?


----------



## dpawl31

Sort of hot but acceptable temps for 1.26vcore, is it a stock intel cooler right now?
And yes, please post your memory tab from CPUZ or tell us your divider etc.


----------



## BIGWORM

K guys, after a little bit of investigative OCing/benchmarking, I've got some unsettling news: I'm getting no gains from OCing from 3.2 to 3.5GHz. I had only narrowed the benchmarking down to Proxycon and Firefly Forest (SM2.0), and resulted to ~4900 points. Upped the core clock on the GPU, and pushed 5017. GPU bottleneck? Or should I run a complete test before I come to that conclusion? IF that is conclusive, how much of a bottleneck is it, and what should be recommended as an upgrade? A GTX260?


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


What's your ratio? RAM speed?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Sort of hot but acceptable temps for 1.26vcore, is it a stock intel cooler right now?
And yes, please post your memory tab from CPUZ or tell us your divider etc.


Yes this is the Stock Intel cooler. And here is the screenshot for the memory timings:


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

Anyone want a dead P5N-e for spare parts or something?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aaron_Henderson*


Anyone want a dead P5N-e for spare parts or something?


I'll take that offer...


----------



## dpawl31

*JUST A HEADS UP GUYS!*
I updated the main post @ the beginning of the thread.
Now I need _*all* _you active people on here to let me 
WHAT you have for MEMORY that works, 
CPU coolers that work, 
NB/SB coolers that work, etc.
Anything that can be added/updated to the *2nd* post in the thread.

Thanks guys - look forward to really updating that list a lot.
PS - please PM with your info - It's easier to collect and organize.


----------



## Norbi

Hello Everyone, great thread! Lot's of valuable info - it helped me to OC with confidence, has problems going with CPU to 2,8Ghz, now it runs stable at 3,2.
Have one question which I could not find answer to. I'm running auto Vcore with +100mV ofset. My CPU is running at 1,61V in idle and Vcore drops to 1,53 under load. Would it be a good idea to go pencil mod and set the Vcore namually to something at 1,53 - at least this my understanding what this mod is for? Would it help dropping temp which is reaching 81*C on each core under Orthos stress? PCProbe is reporting CPU temp. at 36*C after 3hrs of Orthos stress so I guess it is not that bad - I guess Freezer Xtreme helps here. Not sure if I want to go higher with speed, but for sure want to drop core temp a bit at current clock. Thanks


----------



## Aaron_Henderson

The Zalman 9700 works, and the Apogee GT works for sure. Have them both. And when my board was up and running I used 2GB (1GBx2) Mushkin EM2-6400 (still using it actually) and had it clocked at 1066Mhz 5-5-5-15 2T.


----------



## Asce

What i had on my board that fits was;

Tuniq tower 120
Dtek Fusion
Crucial Ballistixs
Geil Ultra's
Thermalright HR-05 SLI
Swiftech MCW30


----------



## NoGuru

Getting my board tomorrow. This is my first board and overclock so i am going to need some advice.


----------



## NoGuru

Also I have a P4 2.8 1MB and a P4 3.4 2 MB. Should I start with the 2.8 in case something bad happens?


----------



## dpawl31

Drop me a PM when you get the board.
Is the P4 (both or either) a socket 775?
Also - go with the 3.2. No issues of frying a chip, trust me


----------



## lsvtec

I'm trying to overclock this with the p5n E sli mobo.. any suggestions?


----------



## NoGuru

Thanks dpawl31 I will. Is there a reason the 3.4 has less chance of burning?
And here is the mem I ordered.
MEM 1G|PATRIOT DII800 PEP21G6400LL


----------



## lsvtec

any help


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lsvtec*


I'm trying to overclock this with the p5n E sli mobo.. any suggestions?











Quote:



Originally Posted by *lsvtec*


any help


http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ing-guide.html

This is the best guide i've found for this motherboard, and i looked in a heap of places. Its specific to the board and give you two approaches.

1. Full OC by finding the FSB "hole" and being prepared to go past it
2. Or the steps if you're just looking to up the speed a conservative amount.

I fall into category 2 (ATM) and the people who read the thread just gave a thumbs up to temps and settings.

Most important i found was to do your homework before jumping into BIOS. Know your RAM settings, vCore and download all the monitoring software in the guide. I don't know enough to problem solve but there are some experienced cookies in here.

Be Bold and happy OC-ing


----------



## kthulhu

Hi all









I am quite new in this and I am also looking for OC info - maybe this link is useful to someone:
http://forums.hexus.net/help-technic...ock-guide.html


----------



## lsvtec

thanks, i am at school now i'll read this clearly when i get off school


----------



## NoGuru

Ok this sucks! I ordered my mobo "open box" from new egg. This is my first non Dell,HP mobo. I got it to boot win XP but I cant connect to the net. If its a bad driver I cant find them on Asus web site. Anything would help.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


Ok this sucks! I ordered my mobo "open box" from new egg. This is my first non Dell,HP mobo. I got it to boot win XP but I cant connect to the net. If its a bad driver I cant find them on Asus web site. Anything would help.


I hope this helps

First link is for NVidia site drivers for 650i board

http://www.nvidia.com/content/Driver...ional_whql.exe

This second link is for Asus LAN drivers.

http://dlsvr01.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/...%20SLI/Ris.zip

I know others have had this problem. I had the CD with mine, so i'm just thinking these are what you need. Hopefully they are.


----------



## SlyFox

I currently have the Zalman 9700 and Thermalright HR-05 SLI on the NB. I also just received my OCZ Vendetta 2 so that'll be going on very soon. (The 9700 is far too loud with out a fan controller)


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SlyFox*


I currently have the Zalman 9700 and Thermalright HR-05 SLI on the NB. I also just received my OCZ Vendetta 2 so that'll be going on very soon. (The 9700 is far too loud with out a fan controller)


What do you think of the HR-05 SLI? do you run it with a fan (if yes which one!)

Also have you got anything on the SB, or is that only necessary when you're running two GPU in SLI? couldn't quite work that out.

I'm looking at a NB cooler and yours seems the best by far. Waiting for Jason to finish his TRUE, Noc, DK compare before buying a CPU cooler.


----------



## NoGuru

Thanks Nojoker +rep I'll soon see if those work. Also UPS just arrived and gave me the Extreme spirit 2 for my n bridge and the Iceberq for m s bridge so I will let you know how they work out.


----------



## mcogan10

Hey, I'm having a little bit of trouble overclocking my e6400 beyond 3.2ghz on this board. I have tried running 3.4ghz on 1.425v and 1.56v on the NB with no luck...I failed at 16 seconds on orthos. Just wondering if this might just be an "FSB hole" or if there's some setting I missed. Thanks.


----------



## Blue_Fire

Hey guys, my board will not let me unlock the fsb. If i choose anything but auto (linked, unlinked) and reboot, it doesn't take. Even if i leave it stock it will not allow me to unlock it.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blue_Fire*


Hey guys, my board will not let me unlock the fsb. If i choose anything but auto (linked, unlinked) and reboot, it doesn't take. Even if i leave it stock it will not allow me to unlock it.


My first thoughts would be to check which BIOS your using? latest 1301 from Asus HERE i didn't have any problems.

Might need to change OS in the drop down.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blue_Fire* 
Hey guys, my board will not let me unlock the fsb. If i choose anything but auto (linked, unlinked) and reboot, it doesn't take. Even if i leave it stock it will not allow me to unlock it.

Under JumperFree Config, AI Tuning should be set to MANUAL.

Is that the case?
Otherwise it will probably let you LOOK at the FSB values etc, but not edit until you are in full manual.


----------



## Blue_Fire

lol this is by no means my first asus board.... i have set all of my voltages to what i want them to be, but i cannot changes my fsb or memory speeds. it allows me to pick linked or unlinked, and it allows me to changed them, but every time i reboot they are not saved. All of my other settings save just fine except fsb/ram. bios v1201


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blue_Fire* 
lol this is by no means my first asus board.... i have set all of my voltages to what i want them to be, but i cannot changes my fsb or memory speeds. it allows me to pick linked or unlinked, and it allows me to changed them, but every time i reboot they are not saved. All of my other settings save just fine except fsb/ram. bios v1201

I had a small issue with my BIOS where i couldn't use my keyboard to navigate the menus, i cleared the CMOS. flashed BIOS and is been perfect. It even cured a freezing problem i had before i started Overclocking. Just a thought (and probably something you've already tried







)


----------



## Blue_Fire

hmm well i can go ahead and clear cmos, boot and flash to 1301. That is as soon as i find my vista cd.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blue_Fire* 
hmm well i can go ahead and clear cmos, boot and flash to 1301. That is as soon as i find my vista cd.

I've missed something here, why do you need the vista cd? i'm on xp so don't have any experience with vista. the cmos, boot and flash doesn't need vista cd. In fact the cmos doesn't really need to be followed by a bios flash. It just covers all bases. You'll still be on 1201


----------



## dpawl31

as stated above, try a cmos clearing. be sure to drain capacitors by hitting your power button a few times and have your battery out and psu unplugged.

if that doesn't do the trick get the latest bios.

sometimes the bios 'freezes' in a set config and needs a 'cleaning'.
kind of like running windows so long without a reboot


----------



## Blue_Fire

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


I've missed something here, why do you need the vista cd? i'm on xp so don't have any experience with vista. the cmos, boot and flash doesn't need vista cd. In fact the cmos doesn't really need to be followed by a bios flash. It just covers all bases. You'll still be on 1201


i didn't have an os installed. no real use to overclock without an os. flashed to 1301 and am still having weird problems... i can changed bios settings 1 time. for example: i set all of my settings, then save them to profile 1 and apply them everything will work fine. 
However if i have to go back in to change something and apply, i go back to default everything. So i have to load from the saved profile (but not hit f10), change what i want to change, then apply. If i do that every time it will apply.
Also cannot change my multiplier (up or down) whatsoever.

Side note: my chip has a crazy high VID







holding at 3.6 easily though.


----------



## No1Joker

that is weird. its typical that you can't change the stuff you need for a proper overclock. I'm down to one idea and that your CMOS battery might need to be changed. possible it doesn't have enough in it to keep your settings. That doesn't explain the mulitplier bug though. (unless its causing random probs in BIOS). Can you actually change every other setting in bios? or is it just multiplier now.


----------



## Blue_Fire

oh i can change every setting as i please, and some of them apply. but most don't unless i load a profile Then change and apply settings.


----------



## SlyFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
What do you think of the HR-05 SLI? do you run it with a fan (if yes which one!)

Also have you got anything on the SB, or is that only necessary when you're running two GPU in SLI? couldn't quite work that out.

I'm looking at a NB cooler and yours seems the best by far. Waiting for Jason to finish his TRUE, Noc, DK compare before buying a CPU cooler.

I love the HR-05, although it was kind of a pain to install (It'd be easy if 2 people did it). I do have a fan running on the NB, I'll have to check which one when I get home (I believe it's a delta). Nothing on the SB.


----------



## Zippit

Does someone know how to set the 2nd PCI-e slot GFX card to be the main card?


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SlyFox*


I love the HR-05, although it was kind of a pain to install (It'd be easy if 2 people did it).  I do have a fan running on the NB, I'll have to check which one when I get home (I believe it's a delta). Nothing on the SB.


I'm going to get one HR-05 and put a 80mm panaflo on it. Hopefully it'll squeeze in next to the Xig Dark Knight?? One final question to anyone reading is the HR-09 U (Type 2) Mosfet coolers worth it for the money? Or should i just cut up the stock NB cooler into mini mosfet coolers? I just plan to put a bit of AC MX2 between them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Does someone know how to set the 2nd PCI-e slot GFX card to be the main card?


Sorry didn't know you could change them round. Would be useful for a bit more room at the top of the board though.


----------



## Blue_Fire

my buffalo firestyx ddr2 800 (d9gmh) booted up with out any problems at 1066 5-5-5-15 2t


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
Sorry didn't know you could change them round. Would be useful for a bit more room at the top of the board though.

I'm getting a GTX280 but I still have a 8800GTS in the top one and I cant just move it into the second slot because of it being on water. So I want to use my GTX280 as my main when it comes here and keep my 8800 as a physics card and folding 24/7.


----------



## eminded1

that would be a good setup, i thinking aobut getting aohter 9800gtx. but i gota get a better powersupply to run 2 cards. Zippit is that that pic. Wow your a hotttie. ~


----------



## Zippit

Thanks.

Whats the max save voltage to put through the NB on this motherboard?


----------



## eminded1

i have a heatsink and fan on the nb, i didnt bohter changing the stock paste cuz i thoghit it was good enoph, anyway i got this nvidia fan and balck litte heatsink. well that thing is way cooler and effechent then the stock P_O_S asus put on there, i dont notice any sound and its running at 2300rpm, stays about 32c idle and 41-42c under stress. and is at 1.39, i have run 1.56 on this board when i had my old e2140 to get it to 1600fsb 400x8=3.2ghz and it was stable but my cpu needed alot of voltage so i want to 1500fsb and 1.56 it stayed cool, i dont recall the acual temps tho.


----------



## e-t172

Hi,

Please note that I am not a very experienced overclocker. Here is my config:

Asus P5N-E SLI
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600
2 GB Corsair
NVidia GeForce GTX 280

I recently bought a watercooling system to maximize silence and to overclock the CPU and the GTX 280. However the results are a little disappointing, here is the maximum I managed to reach (Prime95 stable):

FSB: 380 (1520 QDR)
VCore: 1.43125
VNB: 1.748 (yes, the maximum)
Multiplier 9 (CPU at 3.42 Ghz)

The CPU temps are really not a problem (40C max), thanks to the watercooling. I kept the stock rad on the NB, could it be the problem? Or am I just hitting the CPU limits? When I read the first posts of this thread it sounds very promising but when I try it myself I can't even reach a 400 FSB...


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *e-t172*


Hi,

Please note that I am not a very experienced overclocker. Here is my config:

Asus P5N-E SLI
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600
2 GB Corsair
NVidia GeForce GTX 280

I recently bought a watercooling system to maximize silence and to overclock the CPU and the GTX 280. However the results are a little disappointing, here is the maximum I managed to reach (Prime95 stable):

FSB: 380 (1520 QDR)
VCore: 1.43125
VNB: 1.748 (yes, the maximum)
Multiplier 9 (CPU at 3.42 Ghz)

The CPU temps are really not a problem (40C max), thanks to the watercooling. I kept the stock rad on the NB, could it be the problem? Or am I just hitting the CPU limits? When I read the first posts of this thread it sounds very promising but when I try it myself I can't even reach a 400 FSB...










I just tried to find my FSB max just for the ****z and giggles and I got all the way up to 490, and post with a FSB of 500. And thats with the CPU multiplier at 6x and 1.5v on the NB.

Put your CPU at 6x aswell and your ram at stock speed and try to find your max FSB you can boot in and if you're not getting passed 400 FSB then its your board holding you back.

Then try to OC your CPU without OCing your RAM so that eliminates that aswel.

If it fails then... you got yourself a bad OCing CPU.


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *e-t172*


Hi,

Please note that I am not a very experienced overclocker. Here is my config:

Asus P5N-E SLI
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600
2 GB Corsair
NVidia GeForce GTX 280

I recently bought a watercooling system to maximize silence and to overclock the CPU and the GTX 280. However the results are a little disappointing, here is the maximum I managed to reach (Prime95 stable):

FSB: 380 (1520 QDR)
VCore: 1.43125
VNB: 1.748 (yes, the maximum)
Multiplier 9 (CPU at 3.42 Ghz)

The CPU temps are really not a problem (40C max), thanks to the watercooling. I kept the stock rad on the NB, could it be the problem? Or am I just hitting the CPU limits? When I read the first posts of this thread it sounds very promising but when I try it myself I can't even reach a 400 FSB...










Right off the bat, get some passive cooling on that NB. I'm using a CM Blue Ice Pro on mine. After that, bump down the NB voltage to 1.563 (I believe that's the selection...).


----------



## dpawl31

as stated- the nb needs aftermarket cooling. if you run stock voltage on it, stock heatsink + as5 or better is ok. if you use the 1.5v or 1.7v option you really need aftermarket cooling. 
please fill out your system specs so I can get a better idea where you are at. what psu do you have? have you tried the +100mv option? is your pci set to 100mhz?
please fill out your system specs and I (we) can help you further.

-D


----------



## dpawl31

Zippit I think you may be our only female P5N-E'er. That's something to be proud of lol.


----------



## e-t172

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
as stated- the nb needs aftermarket cooling. if you run stock voltage on it, stock heatsink + as5 or better is ok. if you use the 1.5v or 1.7v option you really need aftermarket cooling.

Ok. I will buy something for the chipset as soon as I can.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
please fill out your system specs so I can get a better idea where you are at.

Done.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
have you tried the +100mv option?

Huh, no. Should I ? I can't get to 400 whatever voltage I set for the CPU (Windows won't boot). If I try FSB 400 and VNB < 1.763, I won't even get to the BIOS.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
is your pci set to 100mhz?

Yes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
please fill out your system specs and I (we) can help you further.

Thank you.

I will try the suggestions from Zippit as soon as I can.


----------



## e-t172

I'm searching for a good NB cooling solution, I read on the first post that the Thermalright HR-05-SLI is compatible, however I can only find the HR-05-SLI*/IFX*. Will it fit? From the specifications page we can see it's a little larger than the HR-05-SLI. Note that I don't have a SLI (nor do I want one).

Also, is it necessary to mount a fan on it?


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *e-t172*


I'm searching for a good NB cooling solution, I read on the first post that the Thermalright HR-05-SLI is compatible, however I can only find the HR-05-SLI*/IFX*. Will it fit? From the specifications page we can see it's a little larger than the HR-05-SLI. Note that I don't have a SLI (nor do I want one).

Also, is it necessary to mount a fan on it?


I'm buying mine tonight (the SLI/IFX) and i was going to get the 80mm fan to go on it (something like a Panaflo) just because it'll make the cooler perform better. esp since its only a couple of quid/dollars. 
Try and find some installed pics, i've seen some people install them at an angle and facing different directions, depends what your air flow is like.

For your board, would it be better to find a water cooling solution for this though? (never had one so not sure)


----------



## e-t172

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
For your board, would it be better to find a water cooling solution for this though? (never had one so not sure)

Not really. It would decrease the flow rate for a debatable gain. Besides it would take a lot of time to put it in the water loop.


----------



## e-t172

Seems I have my confirmation : http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums...=444290#444290

Quote:

I also decided to try the HR-05 SLI IFX NB cooler. I slapped the 70mm fan I had from before on the HR-05. Works like a charm but it is a HUGE pain in the back end to install !!!!!!
OK, ordering now a HR-05 SLI IFX with a 80mm Noiseblocker fan.

EDIT: order canceled, big problem: my watercooling pipes run right on top of the NB, so no room for the HR-05 SLI IFX.

EDIT2: I took some measures, the HR-05 SLI IFX probably won't fit but the HR-05 IFX will probably do. (Re)ordering now. I hope the "105 mm" height indication on the Thermalright website is correct...


----------



## e-t172

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Put your CPU at 6x aswell and your ram at stock speed and try to find your max FSB you can boot in and if you're not getting passed 400 FSB then its your board holding you back.


No matter how hard I try, I still can't get to 400 even with stock RAM speed (sync mode) and CPU 6x (at 380 it runs perfectly with 6x and 9x). I also changed all values which were set to "Auto" to the stock value (RAM timings, RAM voltage), with no luck.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


have you tried the +100mv option?


Yes. No difference either.

Here are my more detailed temperature readings (at 380 x 9), using SpeedFan:

IDLE
Motherboard: Temp1 = 36C, Temp2 = 40C, Temp3 = 25C
CPU: Core 0 = 24C, Core 1 = 22C

LOAD
Motherboard: Temp1 = 42C, Temp2 = 40C, Temp3 = 25C
CPU: Core 0 = 35C, Core 1 = 33C


----------



## BIGWORM

Considering your wc setup, you may have to settle with a smaller active-cooling NB solution. You should be hitting 400 FSB _easy_, especially with a WC setup. Your load temps are nothing to snicker at. Give the Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro a shot. It's definitely more low profile than the HR-05 you were looking into getting.

Honestly, NB cooling at this point would be the last thing to consider outside of a bad board/CPU. =/


----------



## Zippit

I have WC aswell and I never hit higher then 40c on anything! So is 1.7 save to run 24/7 with that?


----------



## Asce

I ran 1.7v on the NB for nearly a year and the board still works.


----------



## dpawl31

As long as it stays cool, you are OK.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


As long as it stays cool, you are OK.


So the main danger is the heat generated from the higher voltage as opposed to the voltage itself?
When people say "you'll fry your board/chip" is that the heat damage or the electronic damage (thats if there is a difference when its broken!)


----------



## e-t172

I just came accross the P5N-E SLI guide. I wasn't aware of this "FSB Hole" thing, and didn't try to go over 400 FSB. I did some more tests and it seems I got some results with FSB 415-420: I can get to the bootloader at this FSB, whereas when I try 400 I get a black screen and nothing else (no POST screen). Windows still doesn't boot, but that's a start. Strangely, it works only with VNB 1.563: with 1.363 or 1.768 I can't get past POST.

Maybe the new radiator for the NB will unblock the situation.


----------



## Zippit

I'm going to try and get to 500 FSB and into windows.









Last attempt was 489 with 1.5 volt.









EDIT:
CPUZ @ 495

ALMOST THERE!


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
So the main danger is the heat generated from the higher voltage as opposed to the voltage itself?
When people say "you'll fry your board/chip" is that the heat damage or the electronic damage (thats if there is a difference when its broken!)

More or less. The more heat given off requires more voltage to regulate whatever you're powering = more heat given off. You'll need to have both adequate ambient/case cooling and direct/active cooling on your components to keep yours components' temps down, and ultimately, your ambient down, also. Some people don't realize the importance of ambient temps, because what's the point in active, on-point cooling of your components if you case ends up being a make-shift oven? It'd be all for naught.


----------



## Zippit

Damn... I just hit the wall. It boots on 498 FSB but as soon as I login I BSOD and restart.









Ah well... new personal record and most expensive boards can even get this high.


----------



## sircurmudgeon

Howdy. Just got my upgrades. trying to get my memory to post. each stick passes memtest, and I can post each, 2 or even 3. But not 4.

GSkill- 6400CL5D-4GBPQ
5-5-5-15
1.8 to 1.9v
a pair of 2Gbx2 kits

So far, I've tried resetting to defaults, changing voltage to 1.920 and 2.018 manually and not getting anywhere.

what am I missing?


----------



## dpawl31

Congrats on that Zippit. Very much congrats









As far as the voltage, remember - most electronics nowadays are so well built, in such strict environments that they don't allow dust and what not. Think about this... you can pump 18 volts through something that requires 9 volts. As long as the item stays COOL, it will not burn out.
Granted, motherboards are very delicate electronics, but they have become much stronger lately. Solid state capacitors, thicker PCBs, etc.

Generally - heat is the main problem.
Now just because the surface of the chip is cool, doesn't mean the extreme innermost pieces of the chip are that cool. There IS a limit, and that is when they breakdown. But most boards won't let voltages even get to that meltdown point before the temperature gets to them...

In simple terms- _Generally speaking_ most motherboards can take the voltage they allow - as long as the heat is kept in check.

E-t172, you still have plenty of toying to do







Good job w/ the over 400 posts. Keep tinkerin!

And congrats again zippit! That statement you made about 'expensive boards can't even do it'
That's _exactly_ why I started this thread over 2 years ago. The board was _completely_ unknown. 
And I was out to prove it was a real performer for the $$.
Granted, I only did it with a Pentium D. lol. But I accumlated so many people, posts, pages, views, etc... all compiling info on the board, that it really showed it's true colors.
I really think this thread turned out to be a premier place for P5N-E owners to find help.

Thanks for all the input guys!

OH PS- I have not added some of your coolers/ram etc because I asked for PMs and I got posts here, so I will have to go back a few pages and find those posts. Will try and do that later tonight. I did however add some more info on RAM/coolers etc on front page that I got PM'd to me.
If you get this message and don't see your cooler/ram on there, *PLEASE PM ME!*


----------



## No1Joker

Has anyone used THESE on their board?

[ P Q ] G.SKILL DDR2 PC2 8000 2x2GB (4GB) 1000MHz. Thanks


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


And congrats again zippit! That statement you made about 'expensive boards can't even do it'
That's _exactly_ why I started this thread over 2 years ago. The board was _completely_ unknown. 
And I was out to prove it was a real performer for the $$.


Maybe we should have a list of people with their highest FSB speed. And highest OC and things like that?

If you don't have the time I could keep track of everything and send you a PM once in a while so you can add it in the OP?


----------



## No1Joker

^^^Seconded


----------



## dpawl31

I don't believe anyone has used that specific gskill but maybe while I was gone for a year lol...
Zippit I will take you up on that offer. Give me a few hours to design a format and then we'll talk









80 hour weeks @ work are def rough lol.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I don't believe anyone has used that specific gskill but maybe while I was gone for a year lol...
Zippit I will take you up on that offer. Give me a few hours to design a format and then we'll talk









80 hour weeks @ work are def rough lol.


PM me when you are done.







I don't want to derail your thread.









You can already add me with 495FSB and a E8400 C0 @ 4Ghz.

I'll try and beat my 4Ghz record someday soon.


----------



## dpawl31

I already got 4.2 hehe








Not on an 8400 tho









My plan is to have names, FSB/QDR + Chip, linked to a CPUZ page.
Sound good?


----------



## Zippit

something like:

Quote:



*Zippit: 444*9=3996Mhz E8400 C0*


Perhaps?

And

Quote:



*Zippit: 495 FSB*



And just keep adding to the list with a quote around it to make it more organized.

I'm going to try and pencil mod this board again... I have a horible 0.03v to 0.06v droop.


----------



## Zippit

Okey I just pencil mod it again (I messed it up when going to WC) and I got a rocksolid V now.... well only 0.01v droop.









If someone needs some help on pencil modding then just ask.


----------



## trekz

yes hi im rather new to overclocking an Intel system....

i had the mobo for a long time now. never had to "get" more out of the cpu until today so ive started rechercing a bit..

well heres my problem..

when i first got the mobo the first thing i tryed was ofcource to overclock it..
well it dident go so good.... i updated to another newer bios (cant rember now) but still dident hlp.

so what i do is that i increase the fsb from 1200-1250. ive tried giving the cpu some more juice and with regular voltage but when i press F10 and save the computer restarts and the settings are back to regular... it auto rolls back... any ide how to beat this??? i read the first few threads that this was a great mobo to overclock from...

i have:
quad core 2,4Ghz
2x2gig ocz gold ram 
9800GX2 asus
680W powersupply
running vista x 64
3 HDDs
2 DVDs

think that should cover it...

sorry for the bad english.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trekz*


yes hi im rather new to overclocking an Intel system....

i had the mobo for a long time now. never had to "get" more out of the cpu until today so ive started rechercing a bit..

well heres my problem..

when i first got the mobo the first thing i tryed was ofcource to overclock it..
well it dident go so good.... i updated to another newer bios (cant rember now) but still dident hlp.

so what i do is that i increase the fsb from 1200-1250. ive tried giving the cpu some more juice and with regular voltage but when i press F10 and save the computer restarts and the settings are back to regular... it auto rolls back... any ide how to beat this??? i read the first few threads that this was a great mobo to overclock from...

i have:
quad core 2,4Ghz
2x2gig ocz gold ram 
9800GX2 asus
680W powersupply
running vista x 64
3 HDDs
2 DVDs

think that should cover it...

sorry for the bad english.


Welcome to OCN.

I had the same problem as you did when I updated it to the latest BIOS. Try to downgrade it back to the 0803 version. I find that this is the most stable one. After that you should be good to go!

If you need more help on OCing then just leave another message and we will do our best to explain it to you!


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Okey I just pencil mod it again (I messed it up when going to WC) and I got a rocksolid V now.... well only 0.01v droop.









If someone needs some help on pencil modding then just ask.










You can't just dangle a gem like "pencil mod" in front of my nose without explaining what your doing Zippit







I've already got obessed by washers for the washer mod, gimme an excuse to hang around the pencil stand for a couple of hours comparing HBs









Oh and what the easiest way to measure your vDroop (its not something us men are comfortable with







)


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


You can't just dangle a gem like "pencil mod" in front of my nose without explaining what your doing Zippit







I've already got obessed by washers for the washer mod, gimme an excuse to hang around the pencil stand for a couple of hours comparing HBs









Oh and what the easiest way to measure your vDroop (its not something us men are comfortable with







)


Haha... to messure vDroop just get a program like CPU-z or SpeedFan to read your idle vcore voltage, then put the CPU underload with a program like ORTHOS or Prime95.. now the vDroop is the amount of voltage that drops underload.

To compensate this you can get any type of pencil and rub it over a transistor to let more current pass through it.









I got an 8B pencil since that was recommended by OCN but it was to soft to let any residue on the transistor. So I used a IKEA pencil and that did the trick.

Just rub the pencil over the transistor shown in the picture above. I usually do 3~5 passes and then boot to see what my current droop is. If you are left with a vDroop of 0.01v or 0.02v settle with that or you will only make it worse.








If you did to little turn of your PC and rub some more... if you've done to much just take your finger and rub over it to remove some residue.

And remember practice makes perfect. Although nothing is perfect and nothing will ever be, so why even practice?


----------



## dpawl31

I'll be home in 15 mins guys. I have help for trekz and need to talk to zippit some more!

*EDIT*
Hah! _Exactly_ 15 minutes!


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trekz*


yes hi im rather new to overclocking an Intel system....

i had the mobo for a long time now. never had to "get" more out of the cpu until today so ive started rechercing a bit..

well heres my problem..

when i first got the mobo the first thing i tryed was ofcource to overclock it..
well it dident go so good.... i updated to another newer bios (cant rember now) but still dident hlp.

so what i do is that i increase the fsb from 1200-1250. ive tried giving the cpu some more juice and with regular voltage but when i press F10 and save the computer restarts and the settings are back to regular... it auto rolls back... any ide how to beat this??? i read the first few threads that this was a great mobo to overclock from...

i have:
quad core 2,4Ghz
2x2gig ocz gold ram 
9800GX2 asus
680W powersupply
running vista x 64
3 HDDs
2 DVDs

think that should cover it...

sorry for the bad english.


OK first off, the board is not _great_ for quads.
It loves duals, but not quads.
Quads tend to max at somewhere between 300~400.
Generally just over 300.
Secondly... that OCZ gold RAM does not like overclocking very well.
It'll handle 900Mhz or so (450FSB 1:1) but that's about it.
But with a quad, you most likely won't hit 450FSB anyway.
Also - what brand PSU? Have you tried bumping FSB slowly instead of leaps like 1200-1500?
Now, when it restarts without the right settings... this could either be:
a) the lovely bios error that needs reflashing and clearing CMOS
b) asus protection so you don't have to reset cmos w/ failed overclock

My guess- b.
I think you are taking too much of a jump too quick, especially for a quad.
So, please fill out your system specs completely, as detailed as possible, so we can help more. And welcome to OCN!

*Zippit*
I like the first version of the CPU link etc.
I'll try and do some work on that tonight.
Also, do you have MSN/AIM/XFire?
I'd like to chat about some redesigning of the front page, including some of your items like a pencil mod section and what not.
Please let me know!


----------



## dpawl31

OK I did a _lot_ of updating of all 3 first posts.

I am going to need CPUZ information for everyone that wants to be listed.
I once again must stress, *PLEASE send me a PM.*
This thread moves so fast, I might miss your info.
I still have some more PM's to go through for coolers/ram etc.

Anyone interested in being on the overclocks for P5N-E listing, please *PM ME.*

I will be adding a post to the main Intel MOBO forum to try and get some people that have since left the P5N-E but still have CPUZ proof, or maybe input on coolers/ram etc.

Zippit - would you care to compile some terms we can throw into the TAGS section of this thread?
As of right now, I can only add 5 tags. But I will contact a mod to hopefully get more.


----------



## freedonian

Hi all.

This is my first post. Need your help and advice.

Everytime I boot my PC it always starts with the page saying CPU has been changed press F1 to enter bios or f2 to continue.

I tried setting the bios to its default setting with no effect.

My specs are as follows:

BIOS 1201, Q6600 SLACR @ 2.4Ghz, 4 x 1Gb Crucial Ballistix DDR800, 8800GTX, SoundBlaster Xtreme Gamer.

Any ideas?

Do you need any more info?

I'm not looking for huge overclocks, just maybe get to 2.7 or 2.8, but this problem has got me stumped.

Thanks in advance


----------



## No1Joker

Just a couple of questions...

Have you started to overclock? if yes what settings are you at (vcore, fsb, and the like)
you might want to have a read back thru the thread too, a few Q6600 people have had fsb limits (something to do with the board)

Chuck all your specs in >> HERE << so people can see what system you've got.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *freedonian*


Hi all.

This is my first post. Need your help and advice.

Everytime I boot my PC it always starts with the page saying CPU has been changed press F1 to enter bios or f2 to continue.

I tried setting the bios to its default setting with no effect.

My specs are as follows:

BIOS 1201, Q6600 SLACR @ 2.4Ghz, 4 x 1Gb Crucial Ballistix DDR800, 8800GTX, SoundBlaster Xtreme Gamer.

Any ideas?

Do you need any more info?

I'm not looking for huge overclocks, just maybe get to 2.7 or 2.8, but this problem has got me stumped.

Thanks in advance


Definately first off as Joker said, please enter full system specs.

After that, I recommend a bios upgrade to clear it all out and hopefully it will be nice and fresh. Sounds like a semi-corrupt bios to me. Either that, or you could just try clearing CMOS with the power cord unplugged, bios battery out and jumper moved, then hit the power button on your PC to drain capacitors.

Let us know how it goes.


----------



## freedonian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


Just a couple of questions...

Have you started to overclock? if yes what settings are you at (vcore, fsb, and the like)
you might want to have a read back thru the thread too, a few Q6600 people have had fsb limits (something to do with the board)

Chuck all your specs in >> HERE << so people can see what system you've got.


Done

I did start to overclock but never managed to get a stable overclock greater than 2.7Ghz


----------



## freedonian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Definately first off as Joker said, please enter full system specs.

After that, I recommend a bios upgrade to clear it all out and hopefully it will be nice and fresh. Sounds like a semi-corrupt bios to me. Either that, or you could just try clearing CMOS with the power cord unplugged, bios battery out and jumper moved, then hit the power button on your PC to drain capacitors.

Let us know how it goes.


What's the latest bios?

Can't seem to get on the ASUS website at the moment


----------



## dpawl31

Ask what BIOS Zippit is using, I think she tested it to be most stable (18xx?) Can't remember for sure. And I don't know what I am running, because my P5N-E is on RMA! First RMA in my life! lol.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Ask what BIOS Zippit is using, I think she tested it to be most stable (18xx?) Can't remember for sure. And I don't know what I am running, because my P5N-E is on RMA! First RMA in my life! lol.


Waaaaiiiit... your P5N-e broke? What the hell!?

I'm using 0803.
Its the most stable one I've used. It depends per chip and board though, just get a few BIOSes and try them. I didn't get my overclock in an hour! I've spend days on this one... and I liked it!


----------



## freedonian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Waaaaiiiit... your P5N-e broke? What the hell!?

I'm using 0803.
Its the most stable one I've used. It depends per chip and board though, just get a few BIOSes and try them. I didn't get my overclock in an hour! I've spend days on this one... and I liked it!


Is 0803 more stable than 1201???


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *freedonian*


Is 0803 more stable than 1201???


Like I said... try for youself! Although do watch out that you dont downgrade to far or else your CPU may not be supported anymore! Take your time to OC don't rush it. Take your time... try different things and see what works best! I have this board for almost a year now... and I'm still tinkering with the settings.


----------



## AlFoutzin

Hello everybody!

First post in this forum!

So, I have a Intel E6550 overclocked at 2.8Ghz in stock cooling on an asus p5n-e sli. Here's my cpu-z validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=526624 

Vcore: 1.35V
NB Voltage: 1.393
Vcore offset: Auto

I have some questions: 
1) Voltage issue:

*IDLE:*
In everest I get CPU Core: 1.360V
In cpu-z I get Core Voltage: 1.444V

*FULL LOAD:*
Everest: 1.296V
CPU-Z: 1.376V

Why is this happening??? Is this Vdroop effect or something else?

2)1.35V is a lot for 2.8GHz? I'm not planning to go up to 3GHz. I've been using the pc at 2.8GHz for more than 4 months and it is stable in ORTHOS, OCCT 3DMARK etc. Should I put it at 1.25V to achieve better temps?

Today after 4 months I had a POST problem and I had to put everything back to default..

Now I'm at 2.8Ghz 1.35V running ORTHOS, pretty stable!

Temps:
Idle 28oC
100% load 56oC

Thanks in advance!

Rest of my specs I have them in my signature


----------



## dpawl31

AlFoutzin, welcome to OCN!

You found the best resource for your board that there is.
The best resource for anything computers too!

As far as your OC, I would say if you are happy with 2.8Ghz, stay there.
Start backing the vcore off till it is unstable, then bump back up a bit and stress test. Once there and rock solid, you'll probably be happier with your temps








1.35v is not going to kill your chip though.

Go to USER CP, and edit system. There you can enter your system specs and then take them out of your signature. Much more organized too.

Welcome to OCN, enjoy!

*ZIPPIT:* Yup. Killed my P5N-E.
Actually, no idea what did it.
Whole PC sat for 6 months unplugged.
Fresh CMOS battery, and I get no video whatsoever. Tried multiple video cards, all options of removed drives, RAM, etc.
So, it's in process of receiving an RMA #.
One of the members of this thread actually offered me a dead board that is not RMA-able. So I am hoping to get that soon to replace my NB heatsink, because I bent it to get my Freezer7Pro to fit, not thinking I could just trim the fan shroud









I just bought a new motorcycle today BTW.
1982 Yamaha Maxim XJ650 inline 4. Freakin AWESOME.
Just thought I would throw that in there


----------



## AlFoutzin

Thank you dpawl31 ! I'm going backing the vcore off to see where the limit is! Thanks for the advise!

What about my fisrt question about the vcore difference between cpu-z,everest and bios?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlFoutzin*


Thank you dpawl31 ! I'm going backing the vcore off to see where the limit is! Thanks for the advise!

What about my fisrt question about the vcore difference between cpu-z,everest and bios?


I have the same thing with CPU-Z. it shows a way to high vcore, I use SpeedFan to look at my vcore.... I found its more accurate.


----------



## BIGWORM

Bad News Bears!

One of my Tracers died on me last night, bumping me down to 1gig. It's depressing--I haven't been on a 1gig system since I had a kit of Kingston HyperX DDR227 some years ago. Can anyone suggest me a good 2GB kit, or maybe even a 4GB kit? This was unexpected, so I'm limited on funds right now. I'm looking to spend no more than $45. That's my absolute limit! HELP! =(


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlFoutzin*


Thank you dpawl31 ! I'm going backing the vcore off to see where the limit is! Thanks for the advise!

What about my fisrt question about the vcore difference between cpu-z,everest and bios?


I forgot to mention that, I would go with what Zippit says below.
As far as vcore offset - turn it on and back your vcore down 0.1v
It is + 100mv which supposedly does something else to help control droop. Use it, it won't hurt an overclock as far as I have been able to tell in 2+ years, and it can really only help stabilize vdroop.
Just in case you don't know - vdroop is the loss of vcore between idle and stress.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I have the same thing with CPU-Z. it shows a way to high vcore, I use SpeedFan to look at my vcore.... I found its more accurate.










Exactly. CPUZ is more of a CPU ID'er, hence, the name etc. lol.
I use it for identifying RAM dividers and my CPU specs, but not my board. (ie vcore is a board item, not a cpu item)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Bad News Bears!

One of my Tracers died on me last night, bumping me down to 1gig. It's depressing--I haven't been on a 1gig system since I had a kit of Kingston HyperX DDR227 some years ago. Can anyone suggest me a good 2GB kit, or maybe even a 4GB kit? This was unexpected, so I'm limited on funds right now. I'm looking to spend no more than $45. That's my absolute limit! HELP! =(


Will take a look around right now for you.
Best bet though is to post in INTEL RAM forum, because they know more about mem' than me. But I will say the P5N-E should accept just about any RAM nowadays, as long as you have a newer bios.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Bad News Bears!

One of my Tracers died on me last night, bumping me down to 1gig. It's depressing--I haven't been on a 1gig system since I had a kit of Kingston HyperX DDR227 some years ago. Can anyone suggest me a good 2GB kit, or maybe even a 4GB kit? This was unexpected, so I'm limited on funds right now. I'm looking to spend no more than $45. That's my absolute limit! HELP! =(


I love my OCZ platinum... I havent tried finding the max speed yet but I got it at a near 100mhz OC!


----------



## dpawl31

The platinum revision 2's in the first few posts did well for a lot of people. Revision 1's were terrible. And my OCZ golds were a cheap version of the revision 1 lol.

Lovin my tracer 2x2's!


----------



## AlFoutzin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I forgot to mention that, I would go with what Zippit says below.
As far as vcore offset - turn it on and back your vcore down 0.1v
It is + 100mv which supposedly does something else to help control droop. Use it, it won't hurt an overclock as far as I have been able to tell in 2+ years, and it can really only help stabilize vdroop.
Just in case you don't know - vdroop is the loss of vcore between idle and stress.


ok dpawl31 I think i'm going re-enable the offset and *put the vcore at 1.25V *right?

something else: You think NB voltage is ok at 1.393 for 1600MHz? I use the stock cooler.


----------



## dpawl31

I would reseat the stock cooler with AS5, mount a crappy small fan to it... then bump to 1.5xx.

If you can't, you can't. You can bump to 1.5xx and feel the NB sink at idle and see how it feels, if it is not too warm go to stressing it and see how it feels. If it feels HOT at all, stop, and go back down. Because the stock TIM is junk and if it is transferring that much heat with the stock TIM, then it is too hot.


----------



## Dr1fter

Hey fellow P5N'ers...

I have a strange issue with mine... When plugged in, I get a green power light... I hit the power button to start the computer... the fans turn for a moment, and then everything stops... it won't POST. I have pulled it from the case, removed all but the CPU and it does the same thing.

A friend told me he had the same issue with a different ASUS board and that he said to leave it plugged in with the PSU turned off for about an hour and it should start up again. W-T-F? Bad capacitors? Shouldn't they discharge on their own?

Would anyone be able to shed some of their infinite wisdom and light on this for me... I really don't want to have to RMA the board.

Thanks

D

SPECS:
P5NE-SLI
Core2 E6550 - not overclocked
2GB OCZ Reaper 6400
EVGA 8800GT
PSU - Thermaltake TR2-430W
Case - Antec 300


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Bad News Bears!

One of my Tracers died on me last night, bumping me down to 1gig. It's depressing--I haven't been on a 1gig system since I had a kit of Kingston HyperX DDR227 some years ago. Can anyone suggest me a good 2GB kit, or maybe even a 4GB kit? This was unexpected, so I'm limited on funds right now. I'm looking to spend no more than $45. That's my absolute limit! HELP! =(

I've just bought some G.SKill to replace my 4 sticks of OCZ Gold. When its delivered next week i'll let you all know how it does.
Its PC8000 1000Mhz but i'm not sure the board is going to let it run at that speed. Some others i've read had it topped at 400MHz (which i guess is 800MHz in RAM speak?)
I was hoping it would help me get a better stability at a higher FSB, or am i barking up the wrong tree with that assumption??









Anyway, if you want to wait i'd be happy to post out the 2GB of Gold to you if it helps. i guess you be looking at 10 days, IF the new stuff behaves. If its any good to you, PM me sir.

EDIT: Also i got all my cooling stuff delivered today so i'm an excited little bunny! TRUE Black, TR HR-05 NB cooler, panaflo 80mm and tube of MX-2 + the Antec 900 is waiting paitiently in its box for me to get sorted! Nothing like a big shiny motorbike Mr dpawl







but it'll help me run quicker too


----------



## thunder12

Hi all, Ive just recieved my zerotherm FZ-120, idle temps atm are: 31. 34. 35. 28.

They seem quite random, should i reseat before overclocking or not? I will be clocking to about 2.8ghz because i know thats about as far as i will be able to get to. BTW you might want to add the zerotherm to the compatible coolers list?

Thunder


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dr1fter* 
Hey fellow P5N'ers...

I have a strange issue with mine... When plugged in, I get a green power light... I hit the power button to start the computer... the fans turn for a moment, and then everything stops... it won't POST. I have pulled it from the case, removed all but the CPU and it does the same thing.

A friend told me he had the same issue with a different ASUS board and that he said to leave it plugged in with the PSU turned off for about an hour and it should start up again. W-T-F? Bad capacitors? Shouldn't they discharge on their own?

Would anyone be able to shed some of their infinite wisdom and light on this for me... I really don't want to have to RMA the board.

Thanks

D

SPECS:
P5NE-SLI
Core2 E6550 - not overclocked
2GB OCZ Reaper 6400
EVGA 8800GT
PSU - Thermaltake TR2-430W
Case - Antec 300

Not to get you down or anything, but very similar with my board except all my fans etc stayed powered.
Mine is in the process of RMA. Good luck.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
I've just bought some G.SKill to replace my 4 sticks of OCZ Gold. When its delivered next week i'll let you all know how it does.
Its PC8000 1000Mhz but i'm not sure the board is going to let it run at that speed. Some others i've read had it topped at 400MHz (which i guess is 800MHz in RAM speak?)
I was hoping it would help me get a better stability at a higher FSB, or am i barking up the wrong tree with that assumption??









Anyway, if you want to wait i'd be happy to post out the 2GB of Gold to you if it helps. i guess you be looking at 10 days, IF the new stuff behaves. If its any good to you, PM me sir.

EDIT: Also i got all my cooling stuff delivered today so i'm an excited little bunny! TRUE Black, TR HR-05 NB cooler, panaflo 80mm and tube of MX-2 + the Antec 900 is waiting paitiently in its box for me to get sorted! Nothing like a big shiny motorbike Mr dpawl







but it'll help me run quicker too









The 1000Mhz will probably run @ 800 at first but then you can run it 'overclocked' at a 1:1 ratio with your FSB if you can get your FSB to 500. lol...

If you are @ 400 FSB, then running at DDR2-800 and you can undervolt and cut back your RAM timings


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
Hi all, Ive just recieved my zerotherm FZ-120, idle temps atm are: 31. 34. 35. 28.

They seem quite random, should i reseat before overclocking or not? I will be clocking to about 2.8ghz because i know thats about as far as i will be able to get to. BTW you might want to add the zerotherm to the compatible coolers list?

Thunder

Will add the zerotherm tonight.

Why do you say your temps are random? at what time interval were those temps taken?

Also - why do you think only 2.8Ghz is attainable? Push higher!


----------



## thunder12

Its a quad, ive heard 3ghz is a push and at 3 i will be damaging my board? Anyway i may be posting next week seeking advice on my first overclock, been stock for far too long. Nice to see you back dpawl btw, havent seen you on any other threads. I guess this is where you live?









Na i jsut thought about reseating my heatsink because i thought all cores have to be between 2-3 degrees of each other but apparently not. I will just leave it how it is. On load temps are 43, 45, 46, 39


----------



## dpawl31

3 Ghz is def no prob for a Q6600. And cpu speed has nothing to do with killing your board. Far too many factors in board health, but cpu frequency is now one of them.

Yes, this is _my_ thread lol. But I definately do get around here. Just don't really start a lot of threads myself.
Those temps seem fine. My E2180 @ work is @ 3Ghz and the cores run 50 and 52, 2 degrees difference all the time.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
Hi all, Ive just recieved my zerotherm FZ-120, idle temps atm are: 31. 34. 35. 28.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
On load temps are 43, 45, 46, 39

I was under the belief that idle temps aren't the ones to really worry about its more the load temps that are the issue.

Other than the fact that high idle will of course lead to higher load temps. If your temps are going from ~30 to ~40 then i'd say your coolers doing a cracking job for you by the looks of it. I started with the idea of a "conservative" overclock. (i thought i'd be happy pushing from 2.4 to 2.9, but now i want something starting with a 3!) Keep pushing and tell us how you get on.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Bad News Bears!

One of my Tracers died on me last night, bumping me down to 1gig. It's depressing--I haven't been on a 1gig system since I had a kit of Kingston HyperX DDR227 some years ago. Can anyone suggest me a good 2GB kit, or maybe even a 4GB kit? This was unexpected, so I'm limited on funds right now. I'm looking to spend no more than $45. That's my absolute limit! HELP! =(

I find the Geil Black Dragons very good.


----------



## thunder12

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


I was under the belief that idle temps aren't the ones to really worry about its more the load temps that are the issue.

Other than the fact that high idle will of course lead to higher load temps. If your temps are going from ~30 to ~40 then i'd say your coolers doing a cracking job for you by the looks of it. I started with the idea of a "conservative" overclock. (i thought i'd be happy pushing from 2.4 to 2.9, but now i want something starting with a 3!) Keep pushing and tell us how you get on.



dont worry, i will keep you all updated. Love this thread, helped me alot in the past


----------



## pheoxs

Bad news, was changing cases this afternoon, put everything back together, booted windows fine and then out of nowhere. Bluescreen. Ugh oh, try to restart it, nothing, won't post, no beep codes, but everything powers up fine. Double checked everything so its looking like either the MB, GPU, or CPU at this point


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Asce*


I find the Geil Black Dragons very good.


And those go on sale very often @ the egg.
Granted, some have received bad reviews, but you can't trust egg reviews. User reviews FTL!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Bad news, was changing cases this afternoon, put everything back together, booted windows fine and then out of nowhere. Bluescreen. Ugh oh, try to restart it, nothing, won't post, no beep codes, but everything powers up fine. Double checked everything so its looking like either the MB, GPU, or CPU at this point










No fun. If you can get into BIOS even once, save to a OC profile all your settings. Then do a complete CMOS clear. If that works, it's an OC issue.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


And those go on sale very often @ the egg.
Granted, some have received bad reviews, but you can't trust egg reviews. User reviews FTL!

No fun. If you can get into BIOS even once, save to a OC profile all your settings. Then do a complete CMOS clear. If that works, it's an OC issue.


Can't even make it to the BIOS







. Tried swapping the ram around different spots and trying a single stick. Took everything back apart and then rebuilt it, still nothing. Tomorrow I'll pop my e6400 back in and see if that does anything. Guess I might have to borrow one of my neighbors graphics cards to test that.


----------



## dpawl31

Bummer. Seems you may have the same problem I do - and it's on RMA


----------



## eminded1

this board had terrible vdroop, i had to pencil; mod it so id be stable with idling at a trady voltage. to get 1.41 at load u need to turn the volts to 1.5+!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! so i vdroop moded it now im only getting .05 droop so im happy. idles at 1.41 and loads at 1.36


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Bummer. Seems you may have the same problem I do - and it's on RMA


Thinking I may have to which really sucks, Stupid question, do I need the stock NB cooler on it to return it for RMA? I'm fairly certain it got lost in a few moves so hopefully that doesnt make a difference.


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pheoxs*


Thinking I may have to which really sucks, Stupid question, do I need the stock NB cooler on it to return it for RMA? I'm fairly certain it got lost in a few moves so hopefully that doesnt make a difference.


If need be, I can mail you one, although it's missing one of the pushpins. If you got an extra you could pop in, and the stock NB is required, then BLAOW, you're set.


----------



## AlFoutzin

Good news: I managed to solve the vdroop issue with the pencil mod! 0V difference between idle and full load! Really cool!
















Now I have the vcore at 1.3V (2.8GHz) what would you suggest as the optimal voltage setting for this clock? 1.27? 1.25? something between 1.25 and 1.3 or above?


----------



## BIGWORM

I have my processor clocked @3.2 on 1.28v. Try 1.26v and work up from there.


----------



## Asce

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
And those go on sale very often @ the egg.
Granted, some have received bad reviews, but you can't trust egg reviews. User reviews FTL!

I know what you mean. Mine are a 800mhz 4Gb kit but easily clocked to 961mhz. Most revies on Egg you have to take with a pinch of salt. Hows the RMA going?


----------



## BIGWORM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231122

This is the RAM I'm looking into getting. Looks like a good 4GB kit. You guys think I should go for it? I need to make a decision by tonight!


----------



## eminded1

here is a pic of the vdroop mod for p5n-e sli , works well for getting stable OC without high volt idle spikes


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
here is a pic of the vdroop mod for p5n-e sli , works well for getting stable OC without high volt idle spikes

So you guys don't use an ohm meter when you p-mod? Just eyeball it and stress real quick? vDroop's not bothering me that much, but this mod is too easy to pass up. Any dangers with this?


----------



## AlFoutzin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Any dangers with this?


None !


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlFoutzin*


None !










AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY!!!


----------



## eminded1

well dont file it down too much, u dont wana go below 27 i think it is, but a small decrease is all you may need. tho it could be adjusted, i unfortunatly do not have a meter. i did it by sight.


----------



## dpawl31

Not sure about the NB heatsink, haven't got a clear answer yet.
As far as the RMA, I had to resubmit me request because I gave them the wrong number as the serial,








Bigworm : Gskill is some good stuff.


----------



## BIGWORM

2GB kit of Geil Black Dragon on the way. I just remembered that I can RMA the bad stick, and run mixed pairs of RAM. I'm hoping the stick they'd send back to me will match up with the last Tracer I got here, because IIRC, the newer Tracers uses different ICs. =/


----------



## dpawl31

Why bother get 2GB with RAM prices these days?


----------



## BIGWORM

Welp, the money I was able to spend ended up being less than even what I imagined. The wife and I are putting back virtually everything to be able to go to Six Flags this time next month. I should count my lucky stars that I was even able to get that. =/ Next time, though.


----------



## dpawl31

I saw 4 gigs of OCZ on tigerdirect for ~$20. Couldn't swing that? lol









Oh well, good luck with the memory! 
And have fun @ 6 Flags! If you see that old guy, kick him in the you know whats for me


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


I saw 4 gigs of OCZ on tigerdirect for ~$20. Couldn't swing that? lol









Oh well, good luck with the memory! 
And have fun @ 6 Flags! If you see that old guy, kick him in the you know whats for me










I see that P5QC is working out pretty nice for you. Too bad that there's no SLI or I'd send you my old 7600GT.









My reccomendation if you are not going to dedicate your GPU to folding go with a 4870. Great card, very overclockable, and prices have been coming down.


----------



## AlFoutzin

Today I ordered this pair of DDR-2 800 http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...b_dual_channel

Tomorrow I'm going to install them!
I run Windows XP pro SP3 32bit and I have read some guides in the web about running 4gb of RAM in Windows XP 32bit using the PAE switch.. Has anyone applied this mod? I'm looking forward to use the Physical Address Extension so I need some information from users that they have some experience about..


----------



## BIGWORM

Already in the process of RMAing my Tracers--customer service made it so streamlined I was actually worried I told them something wrong LOL! Does this board do ok with running mixed pairs, or will I have to return those Black Dragons once I get my RMA back?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlFoutzin*


Today I ordered this pair of DDR-2 800 http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...b_dual_channel

Tomorrow I'm going to install them!
I run Windows XP pro SP3 32bit and I have read some guides in the web about running 4gb of RAM in Windows XP 32bit using the PAE switch.. Has anyone applied this mod? I'm looking forward to use the Physical Address Extension so I need some information from users that they have some experience about..










Will have to look into that PAE switch deal. Never tried it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


I see that P5QC is working out pretty nice for you. Too bad that there's no SLI or I'd send you my old 7600GT.









My reccomendation if you are not going to dedicate your GPU to folding go with a 4870. Great card, very overclockable, and prices have been coming down.


I already bought a 7600GT from Infamous for $20








When I get the board back from RMA, building a backup folding rig and it will need a processor. Hmmm... think I'll donate the D820 and ... buy an E8400 for this rig! How much can I get a 4870 for now? I really prefer NVIDIA but I don't think a 985 is in budget









Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Already in the process of RMAing my Tracers--customer service made it so streamlined I was actually worried I told them something wrong LOL! Does this board do ok with running mixed pairs, or will I have to return those Black Dragons once I get my RMA back?


You'll be a good test of mixed pairs


----------



## AlFoutzin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Will have to look into that PAE switch deal. Never tried it.


I just discovered that PAE was enabled by default..so its ok!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
When I get the board back from RMA, building a backup folding rig and it will need a processor. Hmmm... think I'll donate the D820 and ... buy an E8400 for this rig! How much can I get a 4870 for now? I really prefer NVIDIA but I don't think a 985 is in budget










So your P5NE is coming back? Cool beans man.

You can get a 4870 for ~$170 after MIR these days, although if you are building a dedicated folder I'd say buy an nVidia card.


----------



## No1Joker

Quick heads up about RAM (seeing as its pretty in vogue at the mo) i messaged G.Skill about the RAM i've just got and this is their reply. Hopefully it'll answer someones question in the future too:

RE: 4GB (2x2Gb) G.Skill DDR2 PC8000 1000MHz RAM

_"If you run 1 pair of this memory, it should be good for P5N-E motherboard. However, if you want to run total of 4 modules of this memory, you need to use DDR2 800 F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ or DDR2 667 F2-5300CL4D-4GBPQ because the memory controller of 680i/650i is very weak when you run total of 4 modules"_

Which is good to know. Saves me buying the other 4Gig in the future and finding out the hard way







Can't wait for it to arrive now.


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


You'll be a good test of mixed pairs










I see. I'll run an appropriate MemTest for about 12 hours or so. Crap, I'm on 32-bit XP right now, so obviously I'm instantly down to 3 gigs. Vista 64 here I come, I suppose.


----------



## dpawl31

Get 7 Beta!


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Get 7 Beta!


I don't know. I was having sound card issues with 7 in both the 6698 build and in 7000 public beta. After a minute or two of listening to music/watching youtube/anything sound-related, I'd get lots of high-pitched distortion. Supposedly Creative had released drivers on their site combating this issue, but I was unsuccessful at finding them. I'd have to go onboard Realtek HD in order to alleviate that problem, unless those drivers can be found.


----------



## AlFoutzin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Crap, I'm on 32-bit XP right now, so obviously I'm instantly down to 3 gigs. Vista 64 here I come, I suppose.


Physical Address Extension









http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa366796.aspx


----------



## VULKAR

Hi everyone! i'm still new at this so please be nice! i'm having a bit of a problem here. i bought the thermaltake northbridge cooler (CL-C0034). as you can see i also have the zalman 9500 CPU cooler. no matter what configuration i try there is contact between the two. any suggestions??? i would really hate to return the NB cooler. also would it be a good idea to slightly move the NB cooler over a tad where it's not exactly centered to the NB chip, it's the only way there is no contact.

please help!


----------



## Zippit

It doesn't need to be centered.

And touching is allowed... you could see it as an extension of your CPU cooler.


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VULKAR* 
Hi everyone! i'm still new at this so please be nice! i'm having a bit of a problem here. i bought the thermaltake northbridge cooler (CL-C0034). as you can see i also have the zalman 9500 CPU cooler. no matter what configuration i try there is contact between the two. any suggestions??? i would really hate to return the NB cooler. also would it be a good idea to slightly move the NB cooler over a tad where it's not exactly centered to the NB chip, it's the only way there is no contact.

please help!

What Zippit said. Just as long as the NB cooler is clamped properly, centrifugal force from the NB cooler's fan shouldn't throw it off in any way--it's not that powerful. Just as long as the two touching each other doesn't block either of the fans' ability to spin properly, you should be a-ok.

On a side note: My Geil Black Dragons come in today. I'll throw a quick benchie with Everest Memory Read. The 2GB Tracers gave me ~10450MB/s, so we'll see...


----------



## No1Joker

While were on coolers and that sort of stuff. If i install my new TRUE and NB cooler and overclock, when i transfer them over to a new case in a few weeks time would you recommend starting the OC from scratch or just switch on and test right off the bat?


----------



## VULKAR

thanks zippit and bigworm and also thank you for not being ***holes!!!


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


While were on coolers and that sort of stuff. If i install my new TRUE and NB cooler and overclock, when i transfer them over to a new case in a few weeks time would you recommend starting the OC from scratch or just switch on and test right off the bat?


Just to be safe, I'd probably downclock just a wee bit just to make sure the difference in ambient temps/airflow won't affect your overclock stability.

On the other hand, if your TRUE and whatever NB cooler you're going to be using is a definite step up from your previous setup, bolt 'em down and blast away.
=D


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Just to be safe, I'd probably downclock just a wee bit just to make sure the difference in ambient temps/airflow won't affect your overclock stability.

On the other hand, if your TRUE and whatever NB cooler you're going to be using is a definite step up from your previous setup, bolt 'em down and blast away.
=D











I love it when i get a reply that suggests doing the two thing i suggested










I'm a cautious kind of fella so i'll probably start from scratch and enjoy the whole experience from the beginning again. It'll be nice to see the full effect of what i've just spent all my money on.









Thanks BIGWORM you've put a smile on my face just in time for leaving work. I'll let you guys know how it all goes. Might even get me up on that 2nd post!


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 








I love it when i get a reply that suggests doing the two thing i suggested










I'm a cautious kind of fella so i'll probably start from scratch and enjoy the whole experience from the beginning again. It'll be nice to see the full effect of what i've just spent all my money on.









Thanks BIGWORM you've put a smile on my face just in time for leaving work. I'll let you guys know how it all goes. Might even get me up on that 2nd post!

...You're welcome?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
...You're welcome?




















lol.


----------



## BIGWORM

Guess I'm being laughed at now for answering a question wrong?


----------



## dpawl31

Don't worry about it. He's British.


----------



## BIGWORM

Gotta love brits.

I love Top Gear, on the subject...=D


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Don't worry about it. He's British.

















English please not British, and now i get laughed at, lol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Guess I'm being laughed at now for answering a question wrong?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Gotta love brits.
I love Top Gear, on the subject...=D

Thats just quirky humour on my part







, nothing more. But this really made me smile...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VULKAR* 
thanks zippit and bigworm and also thank you for not being ***holes!!!

I'm thinking he must have some really tough parents??























:swearing: "...but mum i just want to know where the remote is??"


----------



## AgentJadeD

Anyone running windows 7 and the new Nvidia chipset drivers?


----------



## eminded1

ok jsut to say. i got it vdroop moded again. i used a better pencil. did iit about 10 times. and walaoa. 1.40 selectedi n bios . 1.41 idle and load it acually goes up to 1.42 and then 1.41 and at reallly stress it might go down to 1.39. this is verry cool compared to before. 1.47 idle and 1.36 load.. i am inpressed. is there any LONG term damage due to the vdroop mod with pencil?
But all in all i have elminated all vdroop but there is still some there so its ok.

EDIT Its steady at 1.41 all stess tests. now im gona se if i can push the clock up higher. now that he volts are good.
I have eliminated all vdroop for my p5n-e sli.







yey

EDIT: Now i got it stable 1.44idle 1.44 load 3.60ghz e5200.


----------



## BIGWORM

Welp, the Geil Black Dragons came in...

One of the sticks was bent, and DOA.

I'm now stuck with a mixed pair of RAM. =(


----------



## eminded1

is there any LONG term damage due to the vdroop mod with pencil?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AgentJadeD*


Anyone running windows 7 and the new Nvidia chipset drivers?


I am running them, seem pretty ok. Get some wierd things though, like when the remember password bar comes down in firefox, it is jagged like it had no drivers.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


ok jsut to say. i got it vdroop moded again. i used a better pencil. did iit about 10 times. and walaoa. 1.40 selectedi n bios . 1.41 idle and load it acually goes up to 1.42 and then 1.41 and at reallly stress it might go down to 1.39. this is verry cool compared to before. 1.47 idle and 1.36 load.. i am inpressed. is there any LONG term damage due to the vdroop mod with pencil?
But all in all i have elminated all vdroop but there is still some there so its ok.

EDIT Its steady at 1.41 all stess tests. now im gona se if i can push the clock up higher. now that he volts are good.
I have eliminated all vdroop for my p5n-e sli.







yey

EDIT: Now i got it stable 1.44idle 1.44 load 3.60ghz e5200.


Congrats on the OC!
Good job with the vdroop.
More likely than not, the pencil mod won't ever hurt a thing. But in case you have to RMA, I recc. cleaning it up first.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


Welp, the Geil Black Dragons came in...

One of the sticks was bent, and DOA.

I'm now stuck with a mixed pair of RAM. =(


_ Bummmmmmerrrr_... you have back luck with RAM man! No fun. Sorry


----------



## BIGWORM

Yeah. Gotta send the Black Dragons back tomorrow and once I get that RMA, I gotta send off the Tracers for THAT RMA!!! First RMA I had to do in 2 years, and it's a double whammy! =/


----------



## dpawl31

My P5N-E is my first RMA, ever


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
My P5N-E is my first RMA, ever









My old XFX 7600GS was my first RMA. Newbi-Clocked the PCI bus to 120Mhz, frying the RAM. LOL! That was a few years ago.


----------



## VULKAR

Question - i was cleaning the northbridge and was able to get the surface of the chip squeeky clean with arctic clean. but i'm having a major problem removing the remaining factory compound junk from the sides of the chip. do i really need to be a perfectionist and clean it up or can i just go ahead and apply the AS5 compound and move on???

thanks!!!


----------



## eminded1

when i replaced my northbrigde heatsinkand fan i didnt celan off the paste. i jsut stuck in the new **** works fine. keeps it cool too.,


----------



## BIGWORM

Wait!!

For shiggles, as Bob Sagat would say, I stuck back in the supposedly dead stick of Ballistix Tracers, and my system booted up!!! What could it have been preventing me from booting up before? I didn't change my clocks or anything when the BSOD happened (0x8E). What happened right after the BSOD was I went to the BIOS, verified memory timings/voltages, and restarted. It restarted, and froze on POST. Well, in the middle of verifying the "dead" stick, I cleared the CMOS FULLY, i.e. pull the battery, flip the CMOS jumper, power down PSU/pull the power cord, hit the power switch several time, then reinsert everything back to normal. Then my system fired up. Though I don't remember if the system refused to POST right after the CMOS clearing.

Whatever the case, this system will be on MemTest86+ while I'm gone RMAing these Black Dragons.


----------



## VULKAR

thanks eminded1!!!


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
when i replaced my northbrigde heatsinkand fan i didnt celan off the paste. i jsut stuck in the new **** works fine. keeps it cool too.,

No.. you want to get it as clean as possible. Also AS5 is conductive. Do not have it contact anywhere but the NB core itself.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Wait!!

For shiggles, as Bob Sagat would say, I stuck back in the supposedly dead stick of Ballistix Tracers, and my system booted up!!! What could it have been preventing me from booting up before? I didn't change my clocks or anything when the BSOD happened (0x8E). What happened right after the BSOD was I went to the BIOS, verified memory timings/voltages, and restarted. It restarted, and froze on POST. Well, in the middle of verifying the "dead" stick, I cleared the CMOS FULLY, i.e. pull the battery, flip the CMOS jumper, power down PSU/pull the power cord, hit the power switch several time, then reinsert everything back to normal. Then my system fired up. Though I don't remember if the system refused to POST right after the CMOS clearing.

Whatever the case, this system will be on MemTest86+ while I'm gone RMAing these Black Dragons.

Did you set the timings, frequency, and voltage for the Ballistix?


----------



## BIGWORM

Yeah, I had done that before-hand.

Stock is 4-4-4-12/2.2v/800Mhz

I don't know what's going on at this point. I just ran MemTest for 2 hours (278%), and got 0 errors. I think it was just a glitch in the system, haha. I'm already in the process of RMAing both sets of RAM--already mailed back the Black Dragons (where I just got back from doing so), and told Crucial I wanted to cross-ship my Ballistix instead of the wait-to-retrieve method. We'll see what happened. I'm still looking forward to testing the mixed pairs when the RMAs are complete.


----------



## dpawl31

Not too shabby with the RAM worm!

As for cleaning off old paste etc... AS5 as blizzie said will conduct electricity, and short things out. I use ceramique mostly because of that. But if it is stock thermal paste/tape, it won't conduct, because they use generic _crap_. lol.
But definately try to get as much off as possible. Shouldn't be too hard with a cu-tip and some rubbing alcohol.

PS - AS5 stands for Arctic Silver 5. Silver being the main point, is a metal that conducts electricity, hence, what I said above!


----------



## BIGWORM

I just forgot about adding something else that was previously wrong with my system, which I think was pretty significant:

I have a WD 640GB SATAII. I had partitioned 75GB of it through Vista's disk management. I would've partitioned it through PartitionMagic 8, but sadly it wasn't supported in Vista. Anyway, I was getting stability problems mainly in TF2--I literally couldn't play for more than 2 minutes before it'd hard-lock, not my entire system, but freeze on-screen, forcing me to C-A-D. Went back to XP, still having the same problem. Reinstalled XP SP3 no less than 3 times within a 2 day period. As I discovered a few days ago, for whatever reason, the primary partition was no longer recognized as the boot partition. Somehow Vista's disk management messed it up. Unfortunately, to solve this problem, I had to delete both partitions so that the drive could be repartitioned into one.

Just to add on to it, a weird thing I noticed during XP's setup was it was showing ANOTHER partition on top of the actual existing partitions. A random number, literlly 41365645MB.  PartitionMagic 8, after I had reinstalled XP, said that there was a disk error, and gave me error 117 and error 109, saying that partitionmagic couldn't pick up a drive letter, and one of my partitions end after end of disk.

Whatever the case, reallocating that partition made all the errors go away, and I was able to partion SUCCESSFULLY through PartitionMagic. =D

P.S. man that was a lot of partitions LOL!


----------



## e-t172

Follow-up.

I installed the Thermalright HR-05 IFX on the northbridge (with a 80mm fan). It fits perfectly. (to dpawl31: you can add it to the compatible coolers).

My new MAX FSB is now 445, which is MUCH better than with the stock NB cooler (previous max: 380).

However, I was limited by my CPU







my MAX CPU frequency was 3.69 ghz (405 * 9).

After further investigation, I noticed I got horrible vdroop values (with 405 * 9: 1.60 IDLE, 1.49 IDLE, 0.11 vdroop!). I tried the vdroop pencil mod to get rid of the vdroop. It worked perfectly: now I don't get any measurable vdroop AT ALL, even at max vcore.

So, my new maximum is 425 * 9 = 3.825 Ghz, which is good (though not exceptional). Details:

Intel Core 2 Duo [email protected] (stock speed: 2400)
FSB: 1700 (425)
Multiplier: 9
VCore: 1.54375 V + 100 mV (probe: 1.76 V, no vdroop)
VNB: 1.393 V (go figure...)
Core IDLE: 33C
Core LOAD: 75C
Vdroop pencil mod


----------



## eminded1

do the vdroop mod, i did it with my p5n-e i get solid volts. mo matter what i set bios to that will be the idle and load value nothing less.or more. I recommend the vdroop mod youll get lower volts and temps also. jsut u may have to re apply after a while but iv had no problems its been modded for abotua month now. bios is at 1.33 acuall vcore is 1.36 load is 1.36 and idle is 1.36 im glad i did the vdroop mod

Asus should have jsut implimented a feature to eliminate vdroop. vdroop is stupid. there no point to it unless your on stock and it may rase it a couple volts . i see no problem with vdroop mod and im gona keep it on my system.


----------



## e-t172

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
do the vdroop mod, i did it with my p5n-e i get solid volts. mo matter what i set bios to that will be the idle and load value nothing less.or more. I recommend the vdroop mod youll get lower volts and temps also.

I probably didn't make myself clear (sorry, english is not my native language): I already did the vdroop mod. And as I said, it worked perfectly.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


do the vdroop mod, i did it with my p5n-e i get solid volts. mo matter what i set bios to that will be the idle and load value nothing less.or more. I recommend the vdroop mod youll get lower volts and temps also. jsut u may have to re apply after a while but iv had no problems its been modded for abotua month now. bios is at 1.33 acuall vcore is 1.36 load is 1.36 and idle is 1.36 im glad i did the vdroop mod

*Asus should have jsut implimented a feature to eliminate vdroop. vdroop is stupid. there no point to it unless your on stock and it may rase it a couple volts .* i see no problem with vdroop mod and im gona keep it on my system.


Vdroop is not an intentional thing really. Something all boards used to have. Newer boards have found ways to eliminate it (like my P5QC)
Boards of the P5N-E era were considered cheap if they _did _have a vdroop because most boards coming out 2 years ago had solved the issue. P5N-E suffers from it obviously, but people like us testing and using the pencil mod have proved it to work fine.
All boards before the P5N-E era boards had vdroop issues really, at least a majority of them. Hell, my Shuttle AS45 SiS chipset board had horrible vdroop!


----------



## Zippit

I'm going to leave this thread soon guys.









On the other hand.... I'm getting a free 780i FTW...


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I'm going to leave this thread soon guys.









On the other hand.... I'm getting a free 780i FTW...









Wait a minute, surely we can do something about this?? Someone get a mod to stop Zippit leaving.

I've got some rope if someone else has some handcuffs??

EDIT: New G.SKill RAM arrived today and it works great. Currently running in the Black slots 5-5-5-15 @2T reading 800MHz ATM. When i've fitted my TRUE and NB Cooler and can up the CPU then i'll push my RAM speed as necessary. I take it you're sorted for RAM Bigworm?? What with all the RMAs you seem to be doing. Is it ok if i offer these to someone else?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


Wait a minute, surely we can do something about this?? Someone get a mod to stop Zippit leaving.

I've got some rope if someone else has some handcuffs??


I'm sleek like a fox! You'll never get me!









I'll still pop in once in a while... and use my P5N-e in a folding rig or something.


----------



## eminded1

my p5n-e vdroop mod makes me









My 10 doller power supply make me go









thats is probably an issue the reason it wants so much more voltage. i need a better psu soon, im running it on 500watts, dynex power supply 2 v12-rails of 12 and 18. so 30A combined., my gpu needs a single v12 rail of 32A .so im looking for a maybe 
750 from corsair witch is sli-compatible. 
what ones to you guys recommend.


----------



## Icekilla

I have a serious problem right now...

My BIOS is the 1301

I had to reinstall everything on my pc, so I made a clean OS install, for this, I had to de-overclock my system and apply the factory settings. I saved my overclocking options in the motherboard, to save myself time

Well, now that I have finished with the repair of my PC, whenever I try to re-overclock my system, by loading the overclocking profile I've saved in the BIOS, the system does overclock but, it won't boot. It shows an error saying:

DISK BOOT ERROR, PLEASE INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER

When I installed the OS, I had my 80GB IDE hard drive connected, and I noticed that the booting files were placed in that drive...

I'm desperate!!! what can I do?


----------



## El_Beautor

Hi all, I'm new to OCN. I recently decided to build myself a new compy to OC since my wife got tired of me playing with her's. So I picked up a new E7400, and I found a great deal for this P5N-E. I paid $6 for this mobo, and am really enjoying tinkering thus far. I'm currently running stable at 3.4Ghz (from 2.8) and I've the goal of getting to 4.0Ghz. We'll see how it goes. Its been fun reading this thread thus far (I'm on page 108, but my eyes kinda hurt now...). Thanks for all the info people have posted.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Icekilla* 
I have a serious problem right now...

My BIOS is the 1301

I had to reinstall everything on my pc, so I made a clean OS install, for this, I had to de-overclock my system and apply the factory settings. I saved my overclocking options in the motherboard, to save myself time

Well, now that I have finished with the repair of my PC, whenever I try to re-overclock my system, by loading the overclocking profile I've saved in the BIOS, the system does overclock but, it won't boot. It shows an error saying:

DISK BOOT ERROR, PLEASE INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER

When I installed the OS, I had my 80GB IDE hard drive connected, and I noticed that the booting files were placed in that drive...

I'm desperate!!! what can I do?

How many and what type (IDE/SATA) HDD's are you running, and what are the IDEs set as? (master/slave/cs)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *El_Beautor* 
Hi all, I'm new to OCN. I recently decided to build myself a new compy to OC since my wife got tired of me playing with her's. So I picked up a new E7400, and I found a great deal for this P5N-E. I paid $6 for this mobo, and am really enjoying tinkering thus far. I'm currently running stable at 3.4Ghz (from 2.8) and I've the goal of getting to 4.0Ghz. We'll see how it goes. Its been fun reading this thread thus far (I'm on page 108, but my eyes kinda hurt now...). Thanks for all the info people have posted.

Congrats on the $6 P5N-E score!







Good luck with the reading









*ZIPPIT* You can't leave. Hell, my P5N-E's been dead for ~ a year.
And Joker, handcuffs and a rope? Are you _sure_ you are just trying to keep her from leaving? Or...









PS - been fighting for 20 days to get down in the ranks of folders since I got folding again.
Folding on this rig, work rig and my PS3. _Sooo_ close to under 1000 rank!


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I'm sleek like a fox! You'll never get me!









I'll still pop in once in a while... and use my P5N-e in a folding rig or something.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
*ZIPPIT* You can't leave. Hell, my P5N-E's been dead for ~ a year.
And Joker, handcuffs and a rope? Are you _sure_ you are just trying to keep her from leaving? Or...

















I'm thinking "sleek like a fox" will require a bit of work to catch, but it'll be worth the effort









Make sure you give us a bit of notice before you drop in, we'll tidy the place up, bake a cake and get a couple of bottles of bubbly









Quote:


Originally Posted by *El_Beautor* 
Hi all, I'm new to OCN. I recently decided to build myself a new compy to OC since my wife got tired of me playing with her's. So I picked up a new E7400, and I found a great deal for this P5N-E. I paid $6 for this mobo, and am really enjoying tinkering thus far. I'm currently running stable at 3.4Ghz (from 2.8) and I've the goal of getting to 4.0Ghz. We'll see how it goes. Its been fun reading this thread thus far (I'm on page 108, but my eyes kinda hurt now...). Thanks for all the info people have posted.

You've found the right place! I read all the post before i joined OC.net, then felt after registering i ought to re-read it - but with all those pages i just couldn't do it!
I think Asus should officially ordane dpawl as the "Godfather of P5N-e SLI"


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 







I'm thinking "sleek like a fox" will require a bit of work to catch, but it'll be worth the effort









Make sure you give us a bit of notice before you drop in, we'll tidy the place up, bake a cake and get a couple of bottles of bubbly









I'll drop in in an hour or so... you better have that cake ready!

EDIT: Why isn't my Pencil mod on the main posts?!


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I'll drop in in an hour or so... you better have that cake ready!

EDIT: Why isn't my Pencil mod on the main posts?!











I left the cake in the bowl for you


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 









I left the cake in the bowl for you









What kind of cake is it?

Looks tempting though.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


What kind of cake is it?
Looks tempting though.


In honor of your most recent P5N-e SLI help and the doubling of sales of HB Pencils we made this escpecially for you.

We used dpawl's oven and Bigworm did the icing!


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


In honor of your most recent P5N-e SLI help and the doubling of sales of HB Pencils we made this escpecially for you.

We used dpawl's oven and Bigworm did the icing!











OM NOM NOM NOM

Thanks guys! <3


----------



## pololance

I'm new the the ASUS scene with the P5N-E SLI. I'm having some issues but I'm going to read through the 800 something pages to look for my answer before I post my question, because most likely someone has had the same issue. I'm not new to forums, so I know what's up!! lol

Anyways, I'm half stoked about my new rig...the other half will come when I finish my research. I've been a lurker for quite some time now, btw.


----------



## El_Beautor

Hey Pololance, looks like you and I are in the same boat with very similar rigs. I've been lurking here for a couple weeks now doing research about my mobo and it looks like there's been a bit of discussion about it. I've gotten through 110 pages thus far, which seems like quite the accomplishment until you realize that there's 750 more to go...Good luck to you.


----------



## pololance

You're a better man than I, El_Beautor. I couldn't make it all the way through.

I've read the reviews from different sites about the 650i and running dual video cards and it seems that most reviews lean towards the x8 not being as big of a problem as most people say. Research through forums tells me that users say ditch SLI and run a single card. I'm not worried about space or heating, just speed...as those seem to be the biggest reasons for non-SLI users.

This has all stemmed from CoD4 multiplayer chopping like crazy, which was NOT a connection issue. I haven't dumbed down my graphics, only the resolution, which helps quite a bit. I don't want a dumb game, that's MY role.

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but there was no return in ALL of my searches within this thread and I didn't make it all the way through the 800 pages, sorry...I'm lazy. lol

To x8 or x16, that is the question. Is the x8 dual really THAT much slower than the x16 single?


----------



## El_Beautor

I remember this being discussed somewhere between pages 50-80ish. I'm sure someone will chime in with better information than me, but the consensus there was that the there was an improvement going to x8 dual... anyone else want to help me with real numbers rather than just vague memories?


----------



## Icekilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
How many and what type (IDE/SATA) HDD's are you running, and what are the IDEs set as? (master/slave/cs)

1 500GB SATA hard drive and 1 80GB IDE hard drive, the IDE one is set as master

What if I try downgrading the BIOS to 1201 or, to reinstall 1301?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Icekilla* 
1 500GB SATA hard drive and 1 80GB IDE hard drive, the IDE one is set as master

What if I try downgrading the BIOS to 1201 or, to reinstall 1301?

That's your problem right there. SATA defaults as master and you can't really change that. Why would you want to install your OS on the 80 anyway?

I would just use the 80gig as a slave and run linux on it. Throw all your other goodies on the SATA drive.

*In regards to Zippit*
Write me up a full detailed guide, as I have not even done it myself (no sense pencil'in one going for RMA







)
If you can get a few detailed pics, that would be immensely helpful.
I will set up a whole section for you









BTW... nom nom nom the cake is pretty cute lol.
And yes, we used my oven. The oven being my Pentium D820


----------



## Icekilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
That's your problem right there. SATA defaults as master and you can't really change that. Why would you want to install your OS on the 80 anyway?

I would just use the 80gig as a slave and run linux on it. Throw all your other goodies on the SATA drive.

The 80GB hard drive is NOT where my OS is installed, the files needed to boot (bootmgr and some other files and in that HDD for an unknown reason :S) Vista is installed in the 500GB hard drive

Anyway, i'm feeling desperate...

Should I downgrade to BIOS 1201 or try to reinstall BIOS 1301??


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pololance*


I'm new the the ASUS scene with the P5N-E SLI. I'm having some issues but I'm going to read through the 800 something pages to look for my answer before I post my question, because most likely someone has had the same issue. I'm not new to forums, so I know what's up!! lol
Just post your questions, it's a lot easier than the eye strain.
I never expected the thread to push 100 pages, nevermind over 800. So no worries, ask away.
Anyways, I'm half stoked about my new rig...the other half will come when I finish my research. I've been a lurker for quite some time now, btw.


Again, just ask









Quote:



Originally Posted by *El_Beautor*


Hey Pololance, looks like you and I are in the same boat with very similar rigs. I've been lurking here for a couple weeks now doing research about my mobo and it looks like there's been a bit of discussion about it. I've gotten through 110 pages thus far, which seems like quite the accomplishment until you realize that there's 750 more to go...Good luck to you.


Ask lol









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pololance*


You're a better man than I, El_Beautor. I couldn't make it all the way through.

I've read the reviews from different sites about the 650i and running dual video cards and it seems that most reviews lean towards the x8 not being as big of a problem as most people say. Research through forums tells me that users say ditch SLI and run a single card. I'm not worried about space or heating, just speed...as those seem to be the biggest reasons for non-SLI users.

This has all stemmed from CoD4 multiplayer chopping like crazy, which was NOT a connection issue. I haven't dumbed down my graphics, only the resolution, which helps quite a bit. I don't want a dumb game, that's MY role.

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but there was no return in ALL of my searches within this thread and I didn't make it all the way through the 800 pages, sorry...I'm lazy. lol

To x8 or x16, that is the question. Is the x8 dual really THAT much slower than the x16 single?


Depends on your situation really.
When I had the cash to go for another 7600GT, it was pointless, because 8800GTX's were not a lot more and blew the performance of an SLI 7600GT setup out of the water. Basically, you have to see how much a duplicate card is going to run you. If another one of your GPUs is going to leave you only $40-$50 shy of a card that will quadruple the performance of your current card, then go for it instead.
Generally speaking, SLI is for higher video performance with less cash. But there are so many levels of cards now, it's really not useful unless you are running two high end cards. Esentially, if there is a single card available that will blow your SLI out of the water, why go SLI?

As far as the x8 vs x16.... back in the day I started this thread, it was a big issue. The 8800GTX was the big question. And there is a link if the front page that shows that it really made no big difference x8 SLI or x16 SLI. But then again, these newer cards make more use of the lanes. BUT once again, the P5N-E is not PCI-E 2.0... so we can't really make full use of the newer cards ANYWAY. So really, from where I stand I think 8800GTX is really the high end of P5N-E SLI usefullness.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *El_Beautor*


I remember this being discussed somewhere between pages 50-80ish. I'm sure someone will chime in with better information than me, but the consensus there was that the there was an improvement going to x8 dual... anyone else want to help me with real numbers rather than just vague memories?


See above. lol.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Icekilla*


The 80GB hard drive is NOT where my OS is installed, the files needed to boot (bootmgr and some other files and in that HDD for an unknown reason :S) Vista is installed in the 500GB hard drive

Anyway, i'm feeling desperate...

Should I downgrade to BIOS 1201 or try to reinstall BIOS 1301??


My point is that the IDE and SATA are conflicting. Does not really matter WHERE the boot files are in this situation. The drives are fighting each other. I had the same issue with my P5Q-C when I first got it. New SATA drive, accidentally set IDE as master too.

If you wish, try setting the IDE as slave. Use boot option to select the drive you wish to boot from. Play with the boot order, etc.
Not sure why you want to jump straight to BIOS flashing, I don't think it is your problem.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
I think Asus should officially ordane dpawl as the "Godfather of P5N-e SLI"






















































Granted, many more people know more about this board.

But I'll take it


----------



## zoner88

Hey, guys, new to the boards and found this amazing thread! I too, run an Asus P5N-E SLI and recently upgraded my E4300 to a Q6700. I had 0301 BIOS and thought I'd upgrade to the latest, 1301. What a mistake. Even though the 2.66GHz worked as stock, any modest attempt to OC resulted in hangs, no boots and sometimes, thought I'd have to clear CMOS to get the thing to come back up. Terrible BIOS for OCing Quads. I read further and someone mentioned that the P5N-E SLI cannot OC Quads due to their "limitations." I found that unnacceptable. Looking at ASUS's site, I saw the minimal BIOS that recognizes the Q6700 processor, 0608. So I back flashed my system to 0608 and whala! Although I was a bit nervous, I proceeded the OCing ritual. Here's my results.

OEM Config 2.66GHz @ 1066FSB (10 x 266) @ 1.300 VCore
Idle Temps: 42/42/40/40
Primt95 Max: 56/56/55/55
Flight Sim X: 59/57/57/57

OC Config 3.00GHz @ 1200FSB (10 x 200) @ 1.325 VCore
Idle Temps: 46/46/44/44
Prime95 Max: 59/59/58/58
Flight Sim X: 62/62/61/61

OC Config 3.00GHz @ 1333FSB (9 x 333) @ 1.325 VCore
Idle Temps: 46/46/44/45
Prime95 Max: 60/59/58/59
Flight Sim X: 63/63/62/62

OC Config 3.33GHz @ 1333FSB (10 x 333) @ 1.425 VCore
Idle Temps: 51/51/50/50
Prime95 Max: 62/61/60/60
Flight Sim X: 72/70/69/69

That's all running a cheapie ZeroTherm CF900 CPU cooler, modest lap job to get rid of the ridges from the machining on the heat sink contact point.

That last one kind of baffled me. What I used was Real Temp 3.00 and just looked at the Maximum temps noted after game play. Probably a spike before the cooling fan on the CPU sped up to compensate. Still, I'm not liking those temps, even for short periods. Right now I'm running at 3.00GHz @ 1333FSB @ 1.325VCore and seems pretty stable.

Something with Prime95 I find shouldn't be a good test to obtain max temps your CPU will be subjected to. It loads the CPU to the point where it's consistent and for people like me that have an auto sensing fan, it tends to keep up, resulting in temps more stable. But gameplay loads and unloads in spikes and before the CPU fan can catch up, core temps hit pretty high. At least that's my theory.

Anyway, if anybody hasn't figured it out, the P5N-E SLI will overclock Quads decently with 0608 BIOS and also I've heard 0803 as well. 1301 seemed that any minimal attempt to OC acted crazy. Even at 1200FSB it wasn't right. Still not the best OC board for Quads, but at least it'll do for now. Don't have the $$ to spend on a whole new system yet.

Oh BTW, after I bought my chip, I found the Tcore temp rating on the Q6600 is 71*C whereas the Q6700 is only 62.2*C?! That's from Intel's site - is that right? Need a bigger fan, then ....









Phew, fingers hurt. Thanks for the read!


----------



## No1Joker

Thats like a start to finish OC. Kudos for trimming back to an earlier BIOS, i never realised until i read through the thread how much of a unique difference the board/bios/cpu combo can have. 
I think as soon as you comprehend its not a question of: you've got x,y,z so you need to put in a,b,c. I think you approach it from the artistic point of view rather than the scientific one.
Are you considering a new cooler to give yourself some more scope?


----------



## El_Beautor

Ok dpawl31, you said to ask, so I'll ask. (Btw I'm reading through just cause I enjoy seeing the issues and fixes that people run across. Just for fun.)

With my current setup, I've only installed Windows 7 beta, no other OS. I'm having a problem with my USB ports though. When I plug a device in (doesn't matter what: Memory stick, mouse, External HDD, etc.) it will power up, but the OS will not recognize it. As in it doesn't even recognize that I plugged something in. I've downloaded the latest drivers from Asus, and still have no success. I've checked the BIOS and everything is enabled, the Device Manager says everything is working. Any suggestions?

One last question. In Speedfan there are a series of temperature readings. How do I determine which one corresponds to what temp sensor? Any input here would be helpful too. Thanks guys.


----------



## pololance

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Again, just ask









Ask lol









Depends on your situation really.
When I had the cash to go for another 7600GT, it was pointless, because 8800GTX's were not a lot more and blew the performance of an SLI 7600GT setup out of the water. Basically, you have to see how much a duplicate card is going to run you. If another one of your GPUs is going to leave you only $40-$50 shy of a card that will quadruple the performance of your current card, then go for it instead.
Generally speaking, SLI is for higher video performance with less cash. But there are so many levels of cards now, it's really not useful unless you are running two high end cards. Esentially, if there is a single card available that will blow your SLI out of the water, why go SLI?

As far as the x8 vs x16.... back in the day I started this thread, it was a big issue. The 8800GTX was the big question. And there is a link if the front page that shows that it really made no big difference x8 SLI or x16 SLI. But then again, these newer cards make more use of the lanes. BUT once again, the P5N-E is not PCI-E 2.0... so we can't really make full use of the newer cards ANYWAY. So really, from where I stand I think 8800GTX is really the high end of P5N-E SLI usefullness.

See above. lol.










I went the same route you did. TigerDirect had the EVGA 9800GT for $100 after rebate, but EVGA 9500GT SLI would run me $130. Plus, 9800GT is GDDR3 vs GDDR2. Cheaper and better. Appreciate the help and leading me away from a lesser decision.


----------



## eminded1

well i took the pencil modd off. i was drving with the computer in the back of a comvertable and i think it took some pencil off, dam pencil.

1.46 idle, 1.36 burntest., that it rediculois vdroop so i may jsut shave down the resistance to maybe like .02 instad of .10 WOW
i figured out that my chip only need 1.36 to be stable.

Has anyone ever heard of a .10 vdroop. ????

?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


Has anyone ever heard of a .10 vdroop. ????


My P5N-e + Q6600 had a Vdroop of 0.22V


----------



## e-t172

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


Has anyone ever heard of a .10 vdroop. ????


I had .10 vdroop before I did the pencil mod.


----------



## marsey99

for bad vdroop adding vmem heatsinks to the power reg's works a treat









dont sli the 95gt get a 88gts512 and save a few Â£Â£Â£Â£

get hwmonitor and use it to give you a better idea of which reading is which.


----------



## zoner88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
Thats like a start to finish OC. Kudos for trimming back to an earlier BIOS, i never realised until i read through the thread how much of a unique difference the board/bios/cpu combo can have.
I think as soon as you comprehend its not a question of: you've got x,y,z so you need to put in a,b,c. I think you approach it from the artistic point of view rather than the scientific one.
Are you considering a new cooler to give yourself some more scope?


Absolutely!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pololance* 
You're a better man than I, El_Beautor. I couldn't make it all the way through.

I've read the reviews from different sites about the 650i and running dual video cards and it seems that most reviews lean towards the x8 not being as big of a problem as most people say. Research through forums tells me that users say ditch SLI and run a single card. I'm not worried about space or heating, just speed...as those seem to be the biggest reasons for non-SLI users.

This has all stemmed from CoD4 multiplayer chopping like crazy, which was NOT a connection issue. I haven't dumbed down my graphics, only the resolution, which helps quite a bit. I don't want a dumb game, that's MY role.

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this, but there was no return in ALL of my searches within this thread and I didn't make it all the way through the 800 pages, sorry...I'm lazy. lol

To x8 or x16, that is the question. Is the x8 dual really THAT much slower than the x16 single?

No difference that would matter , with a 8800gts 512 any way.
http://www.overclock.net/5360735-post8302.html


----------



## zoner88

I must say, after applying SP1 and SP2 for Flight Sim, I get ~20 to ~40 FPS with that basic ol' 8800GT and my Quad at stock speeds ... I'm not complaining one friggen bit!


----------



## dpawl31

Sorry guys, I am really not in the mood to help out tonight.
Got some punk trying to screw my reputation around here because he couldn't communicate with a full PM box and sent me something I couldn't pay for yet.

Really irks me how much of a jerk some people can be. Hiding behind their PCs... people are .... jerks.







:swearing:


----------



## zoner88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zoner88*


I must say, after applying SP1 and SP2 for Flight Sim, I get ~20 to ~40 FPS with that basic ol' 8800GT and my Quad at stock speeds ... I'm not complaining one friggen bit!


Well, update. I don't know where I got those temps before on my 3.33GHz OC, but decided to try again. I'm a big FSX fan so pardon me for using it as a benchmark. Anyway, here's my current config.

Q6700 Processor @ 3.33GHz @1333FSB (10 x 333MHz) @ 1.4250 VCore @ LDT x5

So far, idle temps are a bit high for my blood. Around 48/50 on all 4 cores at bootup, after gameplay, it hovers at 52/56 while surfing the net. What amazed me was I was playing FSX, max everything at 1680 x 1050 for about an hour or so. AFter playing RealTemp had a max reading of only 67/65/65/65 (I say only - still high, but considering the voltage and speeds I'm at - on that dinky ZeroTherm CF900 cooler - I don't think it's all that bad). Anyway, enjoying my 20 to 60 FPS ...

I'll probably go back to stock speeds for the time being. No sense in overstressing the CPU when not necessary. It runs FSX fine @ 2.66GHz, just not as good when I'm at 3.00GHz @ 1333FSB for some odd reason?!

I guess my question is this. I've always believed it to be better to have your FSB and Memory bus speeds linked. @ 2.66, I have my memory linked at auto and all is well. At 3.00 and 3.33, it's unlinked, but only detected improvement when at max (well, for the time being) 3.33GHz, poorer performance at 3.00GHz unlinked. Is this true or should I not worry so much about the link/unlinked scenario?

I've had this damn board for 3 years it seems and still trying to figure it out. hehe


----------



## willmarth2

Can someone post the link on how to overclock this board?


----------



## e-t172

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Can someone post the link on how to overclock this board?


http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ing-guide.html


----------



## zoner88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
do you guys reckon the latest bios will be any good for quad cores or will i still be restricted to 2.9ghz haha?









Our boards will only take up to the Q6700 quad processors (or 65nm Quad core processors). They will NOT accept any 45nm Core 2 Quad processors, BUT will accept 45nm Core 2 Duo processors with the necessary BIOS updates needed to recognize them (refer to ASUS's site for our boards and Supported CPUs link).

Now, with that said, in order for our systems to recognize the Q6000 series Core 2 Quad processors, we need BIOS version 0608. I recommend staying with this BIOS at it has been found that this partcular version seems to behave much better in overclocking these quads.

I personally have a Q6700 running at 3.33GHz @ 1333FSB (10 x 333MHz) @ 1.425 Vcore @ LDT x5 (LDT x3 helps stability). My idle temps are a bit high (50/52 somewhere around there) and max temps were 67/65/65/65 after running FSX for about an hour on max 1680 x 1050 with my 8800GT. Framerates were mostly high 20's to low 40's peaking at 60FPS. I'm back at stock speeds due to temps hitting into the low 70's during Orthos and other intesive apps (DVD encoding, etc.). I will be looking into better cooling soon.

But the bottom line is, don't let anyone tell you we can't OC quads on this board (Q6000 series), the P5N-E SLI isn't the BEST to OC quads, but they are plenty capable of getting a decent OC.


----------



## eminded1

i can get my e5200 up to 305x11.5 3507mhz ram is at 488x2- 967mhz pc2-6400 , FSB = 1220 i cannot go past 1220 or it wont boot. and it i go to 3.6 my e5200 needs 1.44 . but my 24/7 is 3.5 at 1.36 fsb speed does make a difference even from 1120 to 1220. 100mhz is alot on the bus, anywayhere is my Screenn shot..


----------



## dpawl31

eminded, why are you not running you RAM linked?
That is the easiest way to stabilize and push higher. 
1:1 is ideal. If you do that, you may be able to push higher.


----------



## eminded1

i cant run on a 1:1 it will take my ram down too low ithink or too high,.


----------



## BIGWORM

I got a problem, guys.

I was OCing my setup to 3.4GHz with a 1:1 with the RAM on a 425 FSB. Anyway, right before I got home, the wife said that the computer BSOD'd on her, and with the typical error I'm suspecting, it was a 0x8E error, which is RAM-related. Tried a hard reset, and it refused to post. Cleared the CMOS battery, but when I tried to go into the BIOS, it kept freezing up while trying to adjust the most simple of settings, like telling the BIOS there's no IDE master or slave. I would just tab over a couple times and it'd freeze up. I never gave it a chance to fully boot up all the way. When I hard reset it again, the end of POST said that there was a checksum error and that the defaults were loaded--like I had just pulled out the battery prior to booting up...keep in mind I was already in the BIOS at least 4 times prior to that. I thought to myself, 'maybe the prongs were tworked a bit,' so I popped back off the battery to see that one of the prongs were moved SLIGHTLY. Question on that--are they supposed to be touching each other AND the battery at the same time? Maybe my RAM finally crapped out on me? I'm hoping it's the RAM that went on me, as I'm getting replacements tomorrow. What do you guys think?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


i cant run on a 1:1 it will take my ram down too low ithink or too high,.


Your RAM will run whatever you set it at if stock or below spec.
It's overclocked RAM that will start to run awry.

1:1 ratio is what Intel chips prefer, they like it for stability.
Run your RAM in sync with your FSB and you'll be happy.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BIGWORM*


I got a problem, guys.

I was OCing my setup to 3.4GHz with a 1:1 with the RAM on a 425 FSB. Anyway, right before I got home, the wife said that the computer BSOD'd on her, and with the typical error I'm suspecting, it was a 0x8E error, which is RAM-related. Tried a hard reset, and it refused to post. Cleared the CMOS battery, but when I tried to go into the BIOS, it kept freezing up while trying to adjust the most simple of settings, like telling the BIOS there's no IDE master or slave. I would just tab over a couple times and it'd freeze up. I never gave it a chance to fully boot up all the way. When I hard reset it again, the end of POST said that there was a checksum error and that the defaults were loaded--like I had just pulled out the battery prior to booting up...keep in mind I was already in the BIOS at least 4 times prior to that. I thought to myself, 'maybe the prongs were tworked a bit,' so I popped back off the battery to see that one of the prongs were moved SLIGHTLY. Question on that--are they supposed to be touching each other AND the battery at the same time? Maybe my RAM finally crapped out on me? I'm hoping it's the RAM that went on me, as I'm getting replacements tomorrow. What do you guys think?


Uh-Ohes.

Sounds like RAM to me! Booooo...


----------



## eminded1

ok well im running in sync mode now. i took the timings down to its rates at 270 4,4,4,13,15 1t and at 2.0 vmem. anyway i more fps in games like tf2 and cod 5, so the higher the mzh really does not matter. The higher the timings the slower i guess. i was running at 960mhz with 5,5,5,18,22 2t at 2.1 vmem. soo is it otimal to runn on 1.1 ratio fsb is at 1120 ram is at 560. 280x2. fsb is 280x15.5 = 3500mhz, is this optimal. why is running at 3/4 different then 1:1 for fsb/ram


----------



## dpawl31

When the CPU talks to the RAM, it's trying to move faster through MEM and gets bottlenecked at the CPU. So running 1:1 is ideal. Also, lower RAM speeds allow for lower timings which equate to faster times on just about everything.
Do not tighten your timings until you are locked into a good overclock you are sticking with. Also, once at your best OC, you can try extending your RAM a bit. See if you get any benefit from it. But the further you go from 1:1 the more likely you'll get instability.


----------



## BIGWORM

Just got my replacement Tracers (2.0v versions) from Crucial right now, a whole day earlier than expected. I'll pop them in in a couple of hours. I'm mentally exhausted right now. Wish me luck.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
Just got my replacement Tracers (2.0v versions) from Crucial right now, a whole day earlier than expected. I'll pop them in in a couple of hours. I'm mentally exhausted right now. Wish me luck.

I hope it solves your probs. i'm waiting for a celebratory post...after POST!


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
I hope it solves your probs. i'm waiting for a celebratory post...after POST!

Just gave it a go with the new RAM, and it's still no POSTing.

Where can I go from here? Unfortunately I'm already fearing the worst and I'm currently in the hunt for a good, cheap mobo. I have no idea what my budget is right now. I stressed it to the max getting the RAM RMA'd.

=/


----------



## dpawl31

Man, that is screwy.
Good luck with further testing.

Have you set all your RAM specs etc?


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Man, that is screwy.
Good luck with further testing.

Have you set all your RAM specs etc?


Considering that I've cleared the CMOS several times, no. I'm unable to get into the BIOS right now.

=/


----------



## dpawl31

OUCH.
Do you get ANYTHING on screen?
That's what happened to my board, wouldn't display a THING... HDD light stayed on, and all things powered up... but ZERO output from GPU. Even tested known functioning GPUS and such.

Have you tried clearing CMOS unplugged, hit power button a few times, unplug EVERYTHING except CPU (RAM, fans, HDD etc) and then wait 30 minutes or so.
Then try powering up with just CPU and GPU... Give it a whirl, can't hurt... except your brain!

Good luck... trust me, I know frustration... My P5N-E died in it's 6 month sleep of non-use, and never woke up. After 2 weeks of testing... O_O


----------



## BIGWORM

NEWS!!!

So, for more shiggles, as Bob Sagat would say, I decided to plug up my backup of a backup GPU, that being an old S3 ViRGE. I did that mainly because it's a PCI GPU, and lo and behold, the beast powers on. I don't want to downright say that the GPU has all of a sudden farted...could it be the PCI-E slot? It was no-go with the 8800GT in BOTH of them...


----------



## dpawl31

Both slots won't go at the same time unless your NB is fried.
Generally speaking.

Get ahold of a freinds PCIE GPU and try it out.


----------



## BIGWORM

It'll be a few hours. Friend's going to come over from the next town with an 8600GTS. We'll see how that goes. I'm honestly hoping it's the GPU, because I already have an RMA in the ready for it; all I'd have to do is literally send it off...

I'm going to check to see if the BIOS for the 8800GT is still in tact...maybe THAT got corrupted...?

We'll see...=/

*update*

Yep. Board is fried. The Tracers' LED won't even come on, now...=(


----------



## dpawl31

What did you have for cooling on the NB?


----------



## BIGWORM

Blue Ice Pro. It's barely warm to the touch.

I've had the NBv set to 1.393 this whole time.


----------



## dpawl31

Don't give up. Try the new GPU


----------



## pheoxs

Update: Submitted RMA request to Asus. My board is screwed tried everything I can, no boot, no post, no beep codes. Really sucks because I have all my data on that computer.

Anyone know a cheap (really cheap) place to pickup a 3.5" Sata external enclosure? eBay even? (To Canada)


----------



## BIGWORM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*











Don't give up. Try the new GPU


It's cool dude, I'm already eyeing a Gigabyte G31 ES2L. Though it's only 2 RAM slots, and mATX, in my time of need right now, those factors are negligible. It's a nice, sturdy, low-end overclocking board, and in the end, that's all that matters. Unless you can suggest something comparable to that.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *e-t172* 
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...ing-guide.html

Thanks!


----------



## eminded1

on my p5n-e with the e5200, i need 1.39 to get over 1100 fsb and i need 1.56 to get 1200 and above and 1.7 to get 1250 and it wont let me go over 1300 no matter what multi also the p5n resets the mutli everytime it cant post. so why does my fsb need like 1.7 to be below 1300? anyone know how to get over 1300 without the mutli reseting n ****.
hElp
pls


----------



## No1Joker

I go to bed, wake up and two boards have broken. Sorry to hear about your problems guys. Sounds like you're already running through all the possibilities.

Just for a guide how long can an RMA take? are we talking days, weeks or months?


----------



## eminded1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
on my p5n-e with the e5200, i need 1.39 to get over 1100 fsb and i need 1.56 to get 1200 and above and 1.7 to get 1250 and it wont let me go over 1300 no matter what multi also the p5n resets the mutli everytime it cant post. so why does my fsb need like 1.7 to be below 1300? anyone know how to get over 1300 without the mutli reseting n ****.
hElp
pls

anyone?


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
anyone?

I'll step up then...









Is there any other fsb you can't get a post at? like a range in the 1200s or are you pretty good all the way to the 1300 wall?

you could drop the multi and try a bigger jump in the fsb to find out if this is your "hole"









Also, have you adjusted your NB voltage? either up or down? (sometimes helps)

Are you increasing the vCore because it fails to post/crashes in occt etc? whats happening to those temps? can you rule out the NB holding you back?

Well theres 20 questions for you to have a mull over, i'm full of help aren't i


----------



## Zippit

I could POST all the way to 2000(500FSB) and I could actually boot into windows on 1992(498FSB) with 1.7v.

I have no idea if it has to do with CPU or board but I think its pretty amazing.


----------



## eminded1

i can get up to 1280fsb and posts but nbcore is at 1.7! anyway. the p5n hasa problem accepting the multi at over 1280 it wont post and shoots the mutli always to 12.5 no matter what i do it will always be a 12.5
no mattter what mutli i put it on, over 1280fsb it failes


----------



## zoner88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


i can get up to 1280fsb and posts but nbcore is at 1.7! anyway. the p5n hasa problem accepting the multi at over 1280 it wont post and shoots the mutli always to 12.5 no matter what i do it will always be a 12.5
no mattter what mutli i put it on, over 1280fsb it failes


1301 is crap. I'm surprised you got above 1200 at all. If 0803 will recognize your CPU, I'd back flash to that. I don't think 0603 will which is what I'm running to recognize my Q6700.


----------



## pololance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Again, just ask








BUT once again, the P5N-E is not PCI-E 2.0... so we can't really make full use of the newer cards ANYWAY.


Am I understanding your post correctly when it sounds like you are telling me the mobo will not fully utilize the PCI-E 2.0? If that's the case, a 2.0 card will work in the 1.1 slot just not to it's fullest potential, correct?


----------



## eminded1

i think i have to have bios "1301" because it supports my new e5200 45nm, it says it in the relese support for this chip so i dont wana flash a bios and have it not recognize the chip n be all screwed right?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pololance*


Am I understanding your post correctly when it sounds like you are telling me the mobo will not fully utilize the PCI-E 2.0? If that's the case, a 2.0 card will work in the 1.1 slot just not to it's fullest potential, correct?



Correct, but x16 PCI-e 1.1 should be enough for any of the latest single gpu cards.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


on my p5n-e with the e5200, i need 1.39 to get over 1100 fsb and i need 1.56 to get 1200 and above and 1.7 to get 1250 and it wont let me go over 1300 no matter what multi also the p5n resets the mutli everytime it cant post. so why does my fsb need like 1.7 to be below 1300? anyone know how to get over 1300 without the mutli reseting n ****. 
hElp 
pls


1.56v on the NB and I can run a fsb of 1900(475), if I set it to 1.7v ,I can get 1940(485), but I have only ever set it to 1.7v once.


----------



## pololance

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Correct, but x16 PCI-e 1.1 should be enough for any of the latest single gpu cards.


Although I will need to start trouble-shooting now, that's what I wanted to hear, thanks. Hopefully it's a bad card, because the 9500 already works.


----------



## eminded1

how do i delete this post?


----------



## eminded1

i must jsut be hitting the fsb wall of the chip. anyway im stable now 9 hours orthos, 20 linx,
the fsbwall on my chip is 303.9mhz at 1.56nmcore =1216mhzfsb stable any higher i lock up or get blue screen.

Question, should i run the mem at a 1:1 at 303, look atthe pic below in the cpu-z SPD this ram canrun at 270 at 4,4,4,13,15 1t, it is stable to iv tried it, anyway how much voltage should i use to get it up from 270 to 303 maybe even tighen timings any help is useful.


----------



## Bigmonty

Need some help if possible.

I tried to roll back my bios to 0608 using the dos utility. It seemed to work however now my PC only boots up with 2 sticks of 1gb ram in rather than my usual 4. I have tried various combinations of the ram and they all work but only up to 2gb. I managed ti get it to boot up with 3gb but I got a blue screen saying Memory Management was an issue. With 4 sticks all it does not even post, it used to give a long beep but now it does not even do that.

I tired putting my bios back to 1301, which was successful but I still have the same memory issue.

I have also tried upping the voltage in the bios and updating the timings.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers


----------



## BIGWORM

cleared the CMOS lately?


----------



## eminded1

i took my pencil mod off becuasei dont like the volts messin up at sertain stress. i wish asus would relese a bios that has an option to control the vdroop.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
i took my pencil mod off becuasei dont like the volts messin up at sertain stress. i wish asus would relese a bios that has an option to control the vdroop.

Said it before and I will say it again.
Vdroop is not a _planned thing_.

It is not created on purpose, it is something that just happens due to a series of events in the circuitry of the board that causes a loss in voltage.

vdroop is not even a term you would hear at a mobo factory.
It is a term used in the overclocking hobby to describe the loss of voltage throughout the circuits.

It is also something that can not be 'controlled' so much as kept to a minimum. Think about car's horsepower. The second it leaves the dealership it has less horsepower than it did at the factory.
Factors like oil used, gas used, regular maintenance, etc. reduce the horsepower, as well as normal wear and tear.

Just like that, vdroop is a loss of voltage because electricity does not make it 100% through. It is released in various parts of the board. Thus, eventually the voltage at the end of the 'loop' shall we say won't always be what was put out.

There won't be a 'control system' for vdroop. It is just minimized as much as possible on all the new boards. The P5N-E suffers from some rough voltage loss. But the pencil mod helps eliminate it.

I am in no way saying I know about voltage usage and pencil mods etc. I haven't a clue WHY penciling works. I am not that smart about electronic components. All I know is WHY vdroop happens, and how to explain it. Somewhat.

If I am off in any part of this, please correct me!

-D


----------



## MereAlias

I have had some stability issues with my set up since day 1 and was hoping to get some advice and information and maybe even links to useful resources that can answer some of my questions.

I have the following:

ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i MB (Which is why I am in this thread.)
EVGA 8800gt (two in SLI) Video Cards
Corsair TX650W Power Supply
Vista 32bit Home Premium OS

I have the latest BIOS which is version 1301.

Now for my main concern, I have:

elixir M2Y2G64TU8HD0B-AC 0818.TW
2GB.2Rx8.PC2-6400U-555-13-E1.800

Memory
I have two of these 2GB memory sticks both at stock settings without messing with them in the bios. I have them both installed into the yellow Memory slots on the motherboard, which is correct according to the MB manual.

That should mean:
(2GB 800 MHz 5-5-5-13) x2

Does anybody else by chance have any experience with elixir memory on their ASUS P5N-E SLI MB?

Humble Questions about RAM:

If the memory wasn't compatible what exactly would happen?
Memory is either compatible with a MB or isn't right?
So, if the Memory isn't compatible then you wouldn't even be able to boot up into the OS and do things right?
So, if the Memory is compatible then you shouldn't expect any Memory related problems unless a Memory stick has errors or is faulty in which case the MEMTEST and Windows Diagonstic Memory Test should have came back positive with some errors?

Also, everything runs smoothly most of the time except every once in a while (usually once every day to three days) where always while either watching a video in Firefox on youtube or viewing a HD video in Media Player Classic or simply browsing the web in Firefox my computer will entirely freeze and the video freezes and if there was audio playing it just buzzes until I manually restart my computer. Could this be a memory compatibility issue with my MB?

I am just grasping at straws now sort of because I have tried so much already and can't seem to figure out the problem.

I have also run extensive MEMTESTs and Windows Diagnostic Memory tests on each stick of RAM one at a time and no errors ever seem to show up.

I am really at my wits end when it comes to figuring out what could be causing this.

I have made sure everything is at stock settings.
I have tried formatting and reinstalling OS and everything from fresh.
I have made sure I have all the latest drivers for my video cards and nvidia chipset.
I have made sure I have the up to date and latest drivers in regards to everything else.
So, I am pretty frustrated with this MB, and am willing to try just about anything or listen to any advice what-so-ever.

I would be willing to buy new RAM it's just I would feel really dumb if I did so with the main purpose of hoping to get rid of this problem only to have the problem still occurring.

Thanks for your time.


----------



## Bigmonty

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BIGWORM* 
cleared the CMOS lately?

Yeah cleared the CMOS by moving the jumper and taking the battery out.

Any ideas? Don't really want to buy a new motherboard...


----------



## e-t172

I have the 1301 BIOS and my system is stable until 419 (1675) x 9. Do you guys think that I could go higher if I change my BIOS to 0608? Is there anybody here who actually got past a FSB wall just by changing to 0608?


----------



## sha

I have an issue also with the ram but its kinda weird, when I first start it up
it doesn't post but when i shut it off then wait then switch it back on it will post why does it do that?

I have the 1301 bios
p4 3.20 ghz HT
p5n e sli board
everything in bios on auto


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bigmonty* 
Need some help if possible.

I tried to roll back my bios to 0608 using the dos utility. It seemed to work however now my PC only boots up with 2 sticks of 1gb ram in rather than my usual 4. I have tried various combinations of the ram and they all work but only up to 2gb. I managed ti get it to boot up with 3gb but I got a blue screen saying Memory Management was an issue. With 4 sticks all it does not even post, it used to give a long beep but now it does not even do that.

I tired putting my bios back to 1301, which was successful but I still have the same memory issue.

I have also tried upping the voltage in the bios and updating the timings.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

The 650i has a relatively weak memory controller. Asus' official stance on populating all 4 DIMMS on the P5N-E SLI is that you need to downclock your RAM to 667MHz.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *e-t172* 
I have the 1301 BIOS and my system is stable until 419 (1675) x 9. Do you guys think that I could go higher if I change my BIOS to 0608? Is there anybody here who actually got past a FSB wall just by changing to 0608?

Sounds like a FSB hole. IDK about how BOISes newer than 0608 are for handling dual core CPUs, but 0608 is the best for a quad.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I haven't a clue WHY penciling works. -D

The graphite conducts electricity and reduces resistance, allowing for more current, thus higher voltage.


----------



## e-t172

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Sounds like a FSB hole.

No it's not. Actually, the system is almost stable at 1700 (errors after 6 hours of Prime95). I'm just wondering, if I rollback my BIOS to 0608, will I be stable at 1700 and more.


----------



## zoner88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *e-t172* 
I have the 1301 BIOS and my system is stable until 419 (1675) x 9. Do you guys think that I could go higher if I change my BIOS to 0608? Is there anybody here who actually got past a FSB wall just by changing to 0608?

that's pretty damn good for 1301. Can't guarantee 0608 will do you more, but I've had no luck whatsoever with my Q6700 with 1301 and from the reading I've done, 0608 seems to be the most stable OCing Quads. Give it a shot, it wouldn't hurt.


----------



## zoner88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MereAlias* 
I have had some stability issues with my set up since day 1 and was hoping to get some advice and information and maybe even links to useful resources that can answer some of my questions.

I have the following:

ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i MB (Which is why I am in this thread.)
EVGA 8800gt (two in SLI) Video Cards
Corsair TX650W Power Supply
Vista 32bit Home Premium OS

I have the latest BIOS which is version 1301.

Now for my main concern, I have:

elixir M2Y2G64TU8HD0B-AC 0818.TW
2GB.2Rx8.PC2-6400U-555-13-E1.800

Memory
I have two of these 2GB memory sticks both at stock settings without messing with them in the bios. I have them both installed into the yellow Memory slots on the motherboard, which is correct according to the MB manual.

That should mean:
(2GB 800 MHz 5-5-5-13) x2

Does anybody else by chance have any experience with elixir memory on their ASUS P5N-E SLI MB?

Humble Questions about RAM:

If the memory wasn't compatible what exactly would happen?
Memory is either compatible with a MB or isn't right?
So, if the Memory isn't compatible then you wouldn't even be able to boot up into the OS and do things right?
So, if the Memory is compatible then you shouldn't expect any Memory related problems unless a Memory stick has errors or is faulty in which case the MEMTEST and Windows Diagonstic Memory Test should have came back positive with some errors?

Also, everything runs smoothly most of the time except every once in a while (usually once every day to three days) where always while either watching a video in Firefox on youtube or viewing a HD video in Media Player Classic or simply browsing the web in Firefox my computer will entirely freeze and the video freezes and if there was audio playing it just buzzes until I manually restart my computer. Could this be a memory compatibility issue with my MB?

I am just grasping at straws now sort of because I have tried so much already and can't seem to figure out the problem.

I have also run extensive MEMTESTs and Windows Diagnostic Memory tests on each stick of RAM one at a time and no errors ever seem to show up.

I am really at my wits end when it comes to figuring out what could be causing this.

I have made sure everything is at stock settings.
I have tried formatting and reinstalling OS and everything from fresh.
I have made sure I have all the latest drivers for my video cards and nvidia chipset.
I have made sure I have the up to date and latest drivers in regards to everything else.
So, I am pretty frustrated with this MB, and am willing to try just about anything or listen to any advice what-so-ever.

I would be willing to buy new RAM it's just I would feel really dumb if I did so with the main purpose of hoping to get rid of this problem only to have the problem still occurring.

Thanks for your time.

Aside of the memory issue, dual 8800GTs on a 650W PS is cutting it close. I know I can't do duals on my 600W - just FYI, have any power issues running high intensity games with that config?


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zoner88* 
Aside of the memory issue, dual 8800GTs on a 650W PS is cutting it close. I know I can't do duals on my 600W - just FYI, have any power issues running high intensity games with that config?

Actually no, or at least I haven't experienced any yet.

The only video games I play though are Warcraft 3, Counter Strike Source, and just recently started playing Darkfall.

Even after playing those games for hours on end nothing has ever happened out of the ordinary while playing. The only problem is with HD movies in Media Player Classic and video in youtube and rarely sometimes just web browsing both in firefox where I get the freezing/buzzing hard freeze and have to manually shut down by pushing the power button and restarting.

I have had my PSU for about .. um little over five months. I used to have an old 750watt ULTRA PSU, but finally bought this new corsair because the ULTRA was giving off horribly abnormal high pitched buzzing noises along with putting out much more heat than it normally would have in the past months.

Also, just as an aside, my new Corsair 650watt PSU has made a huge difference in regards to the noise output and heat output which have both been CONSIDERABLY NOTICEABLY reduced compared to my old (probably faulty) ULTRA 750watt PSU.

I have tried to educate myself in the topic of Power Supply Units for computers, but it is just slightly hard for me to really understand. I have visited many forums, watched some youtube video reviews, and sought the advice of many different forums and friends before buying my current Power Supply Unit given my other components and had the general consensus that the Corsair 650watt would be fine and even would be fine should I buy a few more HDs and some extra Peripheral stuff I guess like a Blu Ray drive.

From reading forums where other people were arguing about PSUs and what is necessary and what isn't; it has seemed to be common for people to say that wattage isn't as important as most people think and other things like rails and efficiency are much more important than simply the wattage.

Also, I have tried underclocking my RAM (just yesterday) from the stock 800 MHz to the to 667 MHz with the help of the earlier posts in this thread and so far haven't got a hard freeze yet. I will know probably that that will have fixed the problem if there is no hard freeze within the next five days because I use my computer frequently each and everyday and usually the freezing is pretty consistent in occurring once every 1 to 3 days or more.

A friend recommended that I visit and read and try to post and be a member of this forum and so far I am glad I listened. I love this forum already and it has so much useful information and interesting stuff to read. I hope underclocking my RAM to 667 as opposed to 800 was the solution to my problem.


----------



## eminded1

i think i need a new psu. i bought a dynex case and 500watt powersupply from bestbuy 2 years ago, 20 BUCKS. it makes a whislting sound if i shut my machine off. LOL anyway, i dont think it has enofh v12 rail also, its v1 v2 , anyway its 12 and 18 so that only 30a, my 9800gtx oced prolly needs about 32. recoomeded from XFX and a 650. and my 3500 wont go past 3.5 prolly because of the powersupply making it unstable. because it does boot up to 3.9ghz not stable.
Anyone reccomend a good psu with solid oc pwerformance. i was thinking the corsair 750 sli


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


i think i need a new psu. i bought a dynex case and 500watt powersupply from bestbuy 2 years ago, 20 BUCKS. it makes a whislting sound if i shut my machine off. LOL anyway, i dont think it has enofh v12 rail also, its v1 v2 , anyway its 12 and 18 so that only 30a, my 9800gtx oced prolly needs about 32. recoomeded from XFX and a 650. and my 3500 wont go past 3.5 prolly because of the powersupply making it unstable. because it does boot up to 3.9ghz not stable.
Anyone reccomend a good psu with solid oc pwerformance. i was thinking the corsair 750 sli


Corsair are always a good bet, in my opinion. I am not usually a "fanboy" of any brand names, but I have just seen so many positive reviews and so few negative information about Corsair PSUs along with my own personal positive review for my Corsair PSU.

Anyways, even underclocking my RAM my computer still froze and I am very frustrated and think it is that stupid Elixir RAM I am using even though no errors come up in any Memory tests I try.

I am going to try buying some new RAM and go with this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231098


----------



## No1Joker

I just installed a TRUE Black and HR-05 Sli onto the P5n-e sli mobo. Wow was that a tight squeeze. I haven't managed to fit the fan on the NB cooler yet as i can't face the TRUE upwards until i move it into the Antec 900 i have waiting.

You can see the current results in case someone was thinking of doing this. I also have to run the Raidmax Sagitta with the side as the TRUE is too tall! The main reason for the new Antec too.


















Just a couple of extras for very little reason other than they look nice!

Just in case you didn't know which mobo this thread is for!









Let me introduce my NB chip









My newly aquired RAM, patiently waiting for me to finish installing the TRUE


----------



## dpawl31

VERY good upgrades Joker! Very stylish and definate performers!


----------



## eminded1

so the p5n-e will suppprot ram over pc2-6400? this is interested. does it run over 1000?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


Anyone reccomend a good psu with solid oc pwerformance. i was thinking the corsair 750 sli


Get the same as mine... its really powerful and really stable.


----------



## eminded1

ok the p5n-e sli supports ddr2 ram up to pc2-8000? can anyone confirm if pc2-8500 works too?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


ok the p5n-e sli supports ddr2 ram up to pc2-8000? can anyone confirm if pc2-8500 works too?


It will work but it will be downclocked.


----------



## eminded1

well i run my 6400's at 1000mhz at 5,5,5,18 so i guess ill jsut sty with tmy 800mhz


----------



## dpawl31

Yeah the higher clocked RAM just gets run lower speeds.

Zippit - where you been eh?


----------



## Zippit

Here and there... lurking until I found a question I could answer to look smart.


----------



## xtascox

Well, I'm going to try the 1301 BIOS today since I found it may fix my SLI lockups with newer drivers. I'm hoping I can get my Q6600 close to 3.0ghz with the new BIOS


----------



## thunder12

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


Well, I'm going to try the 1301 BIOS today since I found it may fix my SLI lockups with newer drivers. I'm hoping I can get my Q6600 close to 3.0ghz with the new BIOS










tell me if u get any luck


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Here and there... lurking until I found a question I could answer to look smart.










Meant on MSN too, lol.
You've been online like 5 times and never answer O_O


----------



## xtascox

So far good new on BIOS 1301. It fixed my SLI issues. Now on to re-overclock my Q6600.


----------



## eminded1

i havea question how far do i have to pencil he vdroop mod? i shaved it down to like black and its still .08 vdroop. instead of .10??/


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


i havea question how far do i have to pencil he vdroop mod? i shaved it down to like black and its still .08 vdroop. instead of .10??/


Make sure its the right resistor and that you are using a #2 pencil. Mine didn't take that much at all.


----------



## xtascox

I have to say. I just s**t myself when I managed to pull this off:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=537846


----------



## dpawl31

Pretty darn good for a Q6600 on this board! Nice job!

You are on the high-end of high for a quad on the P5N-E, glad to see that! I may even post your OC on the first page with your permission!


----------



## pheoxs

Well I'm dropping my P5N off at the post office tomorrow finally. Took forever to find a box and packaging unfortunately since I never thought to bring any of it to University.

Hopefully it doesn't take too long but I'm estimating nearly a month of downtime


----------



## dpawl31

I believe it's supposed to be ~10 days after they receive it, but I could be off.


----------



## gtz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xtascox* 
I have to say. I just s**t myself when I managed to pull this off:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=537846









































































Kudos, that is very impressive especially on a p5n-e. 3.4 is just wow. I would have s**t myself too if I managed to achieve that when I had my p5n-e. Any higher than 3.0 and the computer would hang.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
I believe it's supposed to be ~10 days after they receive it, but I could be off.

Its more the shipping from Canada to there, + 10 days, then shipping it back to Canada + time delayed at the border I'm worried about


----------



## dpawl31

I can see it now.

"Dares a bomb in dat dare box, its all fancy and stuff eh?''
''Aint no american bomb comin inta Canadeh, eh?!"


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Pretty darn good for a Q6600 on this board! Nice job!

You are on the high-end of high for a quad on the P5N-E, glad to see that! I may even post your OC on the first page with your permission!


That's fine by me







. 
Just a few details:
1301 BIOS
FSB 1534
1.56v North Bridge
2.1v RAM
Memory downclocked to 767mhz
Booted and ran windows fine with 1.38 vcore but took 1.52 vcore to pass Prime95 for 10 minutes (Stopped it manually after that. Temps were approaching 80 celsius). Anything less would fail at least one core within seconds. Definitely not a 24/7 overclock but maybe once I get my water cooling setup I can push get it to a bit more stable. Played games fine at 1.42v though. It was nice to finally get some higher fps as I haven't had any performance gains since I went SLI. Oh and SuperPI was 15secs at 1M.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gtz*


Kudos, that is very impressive especially on a p5n-e. 3.4 is just wow. I would have s**t myself too if I managed to achieve that when I had my p5n-e. Any higher than 3.0 and the computer would hang.


Thank you! I started shaking when it actually made it past the Vista loading screen.


----------



## pheoxs

Some days I dislike living in Canada...

Sent my MB out this morning. Cost me 18.24$ to mail it out, 10 business days there, 10 business days at ASUS, and however long back. Looks like I'm out a MB for at the very least 4-5 weeks.


----------



## eminded1

imagen when asus will relese another bios update for the p5n-e will ther be won?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
imagen when asus will relese another bios update for the p5n-e will ther be won?

There should still yet be more BIOS updates to come...

Also note - there is a spelling & grammer section to the Terms of Service on OCN, please read it


----------



## eminded1

ahhh, had to bump up the volts on my ram. i gota 6:10 ratio now. so fsb/ram ratio really dont make a difference what it is i guess. i got my ram clocked at 1000MHZ and my fsb at 1200MHZ thata 6:10 ratio. i get faster speeds in games an super pi. pretty cool...


----------



## sexybastard

anyone else notice on the 1301 bios that you cant disable speedstep? always bothered me that they never bothered to fix it. im sitting happy with 1101.

i finally tried that Asus MyLogo2 that changed the POST graphic. Instead of regular old asus screen i have the Washington Redskins logo up there now lol.

Only issue im having these days is that I think its overvolting. In bios i set cpu vcore at 1.34 but in hwmonitor and cpuz it reports 1.44. When running orthos or anything intense task vdroop brings it down to 1.34.

Its okay but if anyone knows whats up that would be cool.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


anyone else notice on the 1301 bios that you cant disable speedstep? always bothered me that they never bothered to fix it. im sitting happy with 1101.


I have speedstep disabled on my 1301 BIOS


----------



## eminded1

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
Only issue im having these days is that I think its overvolting. In bios i set cpu vcore at 1.34 but in hwmonitor and cpuz it reports 1.44. When running orthos or anything intense task vdroop brings it down to 1.34.

Its okay but if anyone knows whats up that would be cool.

Vdrooop These boards have horrible droop. i droop myself a good .10- .08 anyway im goign to get a new motherbarod soon with no droop in it. or very minimal like .01 .02. no need to idle at such high voltages.
and i can mis


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xtascox* 
I have speedstep disabled on my 1301 BIOS









hmmm maybe they did secretly fix it. my brother and i both have this mobo and we both had this issue. speedstep disabled in bios but still functioning in windows. its not that big of a deal but i find it makes overclocking a little bit more difficult.

anyways i just did the pencil mod to limit vdroop and i have to say i am impressed. i cant believe how that could limit it so much. 1.34v in bios would show up as 1.44v idle in windows. would drop down to 1.36v during orthos.

vdroop has been mostly eliminated but this board still has its quirks. set the vcore to 1.30 and its shows up in windows at 1.41v. So now I have it set to 1.25v in bios and its sitting pretty at 1.34v in windows. ran orthos for 10minutes to make sure it wouldn't dip too low and fail. it didnt dip at all









impressive mod to say the least. cant believe i didn't try it earlier.


----------



## eminded1

Sexy bastard did u do the mod with jsut a #2 pencil how black is the resister. did u do it lightly? how hard did u press down? how many times back and forth with pencil. thx


----------



## BIGWORM

I was wondering if I could get any of you guys' input on a bug I have for the board I replaced this one with.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...p35c-ds3r.html

Thanks for looking/suggestions...


----------



## zomgiwin

oh, and try pcprobe2 to check your vcore, its the only thing that shows the correct vcore for me... everything else shows at least .1v higher


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
Sexy bastard did u do the mod with jsut a #2 pencil how black is the resister. did u do it lightly? how hard did u press down? how many times back and forth with pencil. thx

yep with just a standard #2 pencil. Its darker then the other transistors. Dark Grey if i had to choose a color. I pressed hard enough for the pencil to actually start leaving graphite on it. I would say 10-15 back and forths with moderate pressure.

Also I tried getting to 4.0ghz with my E7200 I cant get it more then 5min orthos stable no matter how many volts, nb adjustments and all that jazz. I think im at the upper limit as it is for the CPU







.

meh 3.8ghz is alright. Least its not bottlenecking anything.


----------



## Chobbit

Sorry just catching up on this vdroop pencil mod what is a #2 pencil? we have 2h or 2b pencils in england and what do I use to get rid of it if I do it wrong?

I've set my vcore to 1.4 and its showing up in CPUz as 1.536, thats alot of difference lol


----------



## e-t172

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


anyways i just did the pencil mod to limit vdroop and i have to say i am impressed. i cant believe how that could limit it so much. 1.34v in bios would show up as 1.44v idle in windows. would drop down to 1.36v during orthos.


Not so impressive. I myself did the vdroop mod and I get 1.49 vcore and absolutely NO measurable vdroop during load.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *e-t172*


Not so impressive. I myself did the vdroop mod and I get 1.49 vcore and absolutely NO measurable vdroop during load.


what you quoted were the numbers before the pencil mod. Afterwards there is no droop at all.

edit: heres a SS. the first 10 seconds of orthos is where you get the most drop from my experience.



now compare this to before lol



im pretty happy now







. impressive mod to say the least.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chobbit*


Sorry just catching up on this vdroop pencil mod what is a #2 pencil? we have 2h or 2b pencils in england and what do I use to get rid of it if I do it wrong?


I have no idea what your equivalent #2 pencil would be. I wouldn't think it would make a real difference. As for getting it off... you can use your finger to rub off the graphite.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chobbit*


Sorry just catching up on this vdroop pencil mod what is a #2 pencil? we have 2h or 2b pencils in england and what do I use to get rid of it if I do it wrong?

I've set my vcore to 1.4 and its showing up in CPUz as 1.536, thats alot of difference lol


Its 2b but thats way to soft.

Just search for an pencil because the standard ones have less graphite but they atleased leave some residue.


----------



## eminded1

Zippit your freaking beuitful.. way more hotter then my cpu at fuLl load !!!


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
Zippit your freaking beuitful.. way more hotter then my cpu at fuLl load !!!

HAHA! Thats the worst but most original line I've ever heard!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


I have to say. I just s**t myself when I managed to pull this off:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=537846


















































































My quad would only post at 3.4+GHz on the P5N-E, benchable @3.2GHz, 24/7 @3.0. Rep+ man, well done.


----------



## eminded1

so i think i might do the droop mod again, but i think i have tom uch ariflow in my case and it takes the pencil off while windows is on and the volts drop and it becomes unstable.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


so i think i might do the droop mod again, but i think i have tom uch ariflow in my case and it takes the pencil off while windows is on and the volts drop and it becomes unstable.


Highly highly doubt that...

Zippit - old Avatar was better


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Zippit - old Avatar was better










Meh, I'll do whatever I feel like doing. :3


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


anyone else notice on the 1301 bios that you cant disable speedstep? always bothered me that they never bothered to fix it. im sitting happy with 1101.

i finally tried that Asus MyLogo2 that changed the POST graphic. Instead of regular old asus screen i have the Washington Redskins logo up there now lol.

Only issue im having these days is that I think its overvolting. In bios i set cpu vcore at 1.34 but in hwmonitor and cpuz it reports 1.44. When running orthos or anything intense task vdroop brings it down to 1.34.

Its okay but if anyone knows whats up that would be cool.


I sort of wanted to try out the MyLogo thing, but was kind of scared about it. Was it easy? Any tips or advice or things you now know that you would have wanted to tell yourself in the past?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Meh, I'll do whatever I feel like doing. :3



Moody?


----------



## BIGWORM

I hate to jump ship, but I've officially moved on from the P5N-E. Got a Gigabyte P35C-DS3R, and for good measure, upgraded to a GTX260 because of the pci-e x1 bug. Â¬_Â¬

'Sall good, though. I'll keep stalking this thread from time to time. I just wish there was a dedicated thread like this for the DS3R...=/


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MereAlias* 
I sort of wanted to try out the MyLogo thing, but was kind of scared about it. Was it easy? Any tips or advice or things you now know that you would have wanted to tell yourself in the past?

only thing that bugs me about mylogo is that you have to flash the bios in windows and that can be more risky then through the bios but i had no problems... it was pretty straight forward.

basically you download whichever bios you like the best and then follow the directions in the user manual for using mylogo. you need to install the update utilities from the mobo cd.

the instructions make it quite clear on what you need to do. you cant really mess it up









if you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask.


----------



## dpawl31

I've used BIOS flash in windows many many MANY times, never once had a problem. I think the problem with it lies in the fact people don't like to focus on one thing and try to do it with other things in the background etc. 
I would recc. going to stock settings so you know you are 110% stable just so you don't have to worry about it letting go mid-flash.
It does look nice on startup









Bigworm... maybe you'll need to start that thread eh? I can help you organize if you wish. What are you doing with the P5N-E? *hinthint*


----------



## BIGWORM

You want to buy it off me? it'd be strictly a parts board, obviously. I might leave the Blue Ice Pro on it if you're interested.

=D


----------



## eminded1

is it ok to run the 650i's chipset at 1.56vcore. speedfan max reading is 43c is 43c too hot for chipset? anyway. im only at 1200 but ti think my cpu needs more nbcore and my 650i vdroops the chipset i think also.


----------



## bittbull187

i have this board just sitting in its box in a drawer.. lol didnt know it was a good board maybe should dig it out?


----------



## dpawl31

What is your E8400 running at on your current board?


----------



## MereAlias

This thread is really big and I tried to read most of it, but I was just wondering if I could benefit by adding some kind of fan to my NorthBridge heat sink.

I have the standard ASUS heatsink that came with the motherboard and it really can heat up sometimes.

I installed my new RAM I purchased recently into the two black slots as opposed to the two yellow slots so that one of them could be further away from the NB heatsink to hopefully reduce temp. (Otherwise the RAM stick in the yellow slot closest to the NB heatsink would really start to heat up and very hot to the touch.)

The NB heatsink also really affects my top EVGA 8800gt video card that is near it also.

I am sort of scared to actually try to remove the stock NB heatsink I have and install a new one and was wondering if I could benefit from simply sticking a fan next to the NB heatsink and blowing air into it. Anyone using the stock NB heatsink and fans for it?

Is it even possible to remove the stock NB heatsink I have now and install a different one?

Do I have any other options?


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MereAlias*


This thread is really big and I tried to read most of it, but I was just wondering if I could benefit by adding some kind of fan to my NorthBridge heat sink.

I have the standard ASUS heatsink that came with the motherboard and it really can heat up sometimes.

I installed my new RAM I purchased recently into the two black slots as opposed to the two yellow slots so that one of them could be further away from the NB heatsink to hopefully reduce temp. (Otherwise the RAM stick in the yellow slot closest to the NB heatsink would really start to heat up and very hot to the touch.)

The NB heatsink also really affects my top EVGA 8800gt video card that is near it also.

I am sort of scared to actually try to remove the stock NB heatsink I have and install a new one and was wondering if I could benefit from simply sticking a fan next to the NB heatsink and blowing air into it. Anyone using the stock NB heatsink and fans for it?

Is it even possible to remove the stock NB heatsink I have now and install a different one?

Do I have any other options?


Good idea with the RAM, because you'll need the extra room. 
I've just done all of this on my board. 
You could start by adding a small 40mm fan to the stock NB cooler (it wouldn't hurt)
The second post has a list of suitable coolers

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


*Compatible Northbridge Heatsinks*
*Thermalright HR-05-SLI*
*Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II *(CL-C0034)
*Xigmatek S1283*
*Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro*


I have the thermalright HR-05 SLi and its a tight squeeze with a TRUE and the Graphics card. The stock NB cooler is easy to remove, just pop-out the push pins and it'll "break" away from the board (mine needed a little 'encouragement'). you'll need to remove the TIM off the chip and you'll reveal your chip.










put your new cooler on it, with some TIM and cooler temps will beckon sir.


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:



Originally Posted by *No1Joker*


Good idea with the RAM, because you'll need the extra room. 
I've just done all of this on my board. 
You could start by adding a small 40mm fan to the stock NB cooler (it wouldn't hurt)
The second post has a list of suitable coolers

I have the thermalright HR-05 SLi and its a tight squeeze with a TRUE and the Graphics card. The stock NB cooler is easy to remove, just pop-out the push pins and it'll "break" away from the board (mine needed a little 'encouragement'). you'll need to remove the TIM off the chip and you'll reveal your chip.










put your new cooler on it, with some TIM and cooler temps will beckon sir.


First off, thanks for the input and your help.

Some questions:
1. What did you mean by with a "TRUE" (what is a "TRUE")?
2. Are there any guides for removing the stock NB cooler and is it really that easy (do I need some type of tool like a screwdriver or something how exactly did you remove the push pins)?
3. What is "TIM" (is it some abbreviation for some type of thermal grease/paste/compound)?

Also, this is the CPU heatsink/cooler I am currently using:








It is an Asetek Liquid CPU Cooling System.
I think the lines from the heatsink to the fan might cause me trouble by getting in the way of any really long NB coolers that might stick outward a bunch.

Also, the Xigmatek S1283 are really compatible as a NB cooler?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...TabStoreType=0

I was looking at some on newegg in the link above and their dimensions seem sorta big: for example the first one is 120 x 50 x 159mm. In this case the 120mm x 159mm is what would be in contact with my motherboard and 50mm would be the part sticking out from it right?

I don't imagine 120x159mm fitting when I measure the area roughly with a measuring tape.

Also, I will probably take out my camera and take a picture of the situation tommorow maybe to get some help with some opinions. My case is big and a full tower so thats no concern I don't think, but the CPU heatsink is that one posted above with the two thick tubes connecting the cooler to the heat exchanger and fan might make installing the new NB heatsink that is near it sort of frustrating.


----------



## Stenlius

Hi guys, i'm a happy new owner of the topic MB, but I think my CPU is kind of bad overclocker or is it the MB not liking the 45 nm C2D processors? I'm able to hit 11,5x290 as last stable frequency, 1,36 CPU voltage, 1,31 after Vdroop. NB is at 1,39V with stock cooling, just replaced the thermal compaund with MX-2. Going to do the voltmod /10x a lot for the picture Zippit







/ and try further overclocking to at least 3,4 GHz for 24/7...


----------



## sexybastard

what bios version are you running? 1201 is where support for that CPU starts.

I had issues overclocking my e7200 until I realized my bios version didn't support it.

You can use CPUZ to check... its under the mainboard tab.


----------



## squall325

will i be stable with my sig rig below just replacing the G31 board with this + another 9800GT for SLI? not overclocking tho. but should i change the timings for the RAM to have a stable stock system coz i hear that sometimes, at stock, this board isn't stable.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MereAlias*


Some questions:
1. What did you mean by with a "TRUE" (what is a "TRUE")?
2. Are there any guides for removing the stock NB cooler and is it really that easy (do I need some type of tool like a screwdriver or something how exactly did you remove the push pins)?
3. What is "TIM" (is it some abbreviation for some type of thermal grease/paste/compound)?


1. ThermalRight Ultra Extreme (its a CPU cooler)
2. Heres my guide:
a) remove motherboard
b) use pliers to squeeze white pins back through motherboard (from the back)
c) do (b) to the second push pin
d) gently persuade NB cooler off the motherboard
e) clean off TIM (this will be a grey colour)
f) install new NB cooler as per instructions in box
g) get beer and pat self on back
3. TIM is Thermal Compound which aids the transfer of heat between chips and coolers, its used because no two surfaces are perfectly flat and TIM replaces the air gaps that would otherwise exist. I use MX-2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MereAlias*


Also, this is the CPU heatsink/cooler I am currently using:

It is an Asetek Liquid CPU Cooling System.
I think the lines from the heatsink to the fan might cause me trouble by getting in the way of any really long NB coolers that might stick outward a bunch.

Also, the Xigmatek S1283 are really compatible as a NB cooler?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...TabStoreType=0

I was looking at some on newegg in the link above and their dimensions seem sorta big: for example the first one is 120 x 50 x 159mm. In this case the 120mm x 159mm is what would be in contact with my motherboard and 50mm would be the part sticking out from it right?

I don't imagine 120x159mm fitting when I measure the area roughly with a measuring tape.

Also, I will probably take out my camera and take a picture of the situation tommorow maybe to get some help with some opinions. My case is big and a full tower so thats no concern I don't think, but the CPU heatsink is that one posted above with the two thick tubes connecting the cooler to the heat exchanger and fan might make installing the new NB heatsink that is near it sort of frustrating.


Can you rotate that cooler? so the pipes don't interfere with the NB cooling.

You're right the S-1283 is generally a CPU cooler and is a large beast. In size terms its similar to my TRUE. You'd want something alot smaller and cheaper (but a fan is advisable)

Can you CLICK THIS and fill in the form for us too


----------



## Stenlius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sexybastard* 
what bios version are you running? 1201 is where support for that CPU starts.

I had issues overclocking my e7200 until I realized my bios version didn't support it.

You can use CPUZ to check... its under the mainboard tab.

The BIOS is tha last one - 1301, I refuse to believe that I have the least overckloking E5200 on the market







, actually I've tried another one /the CPUs are tray/ - it was performing same as mine - stable to about 3,3GHz, after witch - not stable no matter of the CPU voltage - tried up to 1,43V. Does the NB require active cooling at 300 FSB, maybe that's part of the poor overclock results....and yes, I've read the 1st posts in that topic....and the SB has a Zalman cooler on it:

http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/...ad.asp?idx=131


----------



## SlyFox

Up your voltage on the NB to 1.56v (I believe thats the voltage). This is still a safe voltage and should let you overclock your cpu further.


----------



## squall325

sir just wanna ask if this is board is worth the upgrade to replace my GA-G31M-S2L? Im in need a quick reply.


----------



## paras

hi guys actually iam using this motherboard but i want to ask a question to anyone who can answer

the problem is that i'am going to sli very soon but the problem is that when i tried to use my old 8800gt xfx alpha dog as a physx card the card ran and i could hear the fan running but the computer does not recognise it

i dont know wether its coz i didnt update this mobo or anything else

can any1 tell me how to update my mobo and also is there an actual way to use my 8800gt as a physx card

remember iam a noob at this and consider me a child and tell me each and every step to use this board for sli or physx

any help would be great


----------



## eminded1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stenlius*


The BIOS is tha last one - 1301, I refuse to believe that I have the least overckloking E5200 on the market







, actually I've tried another one /the CPUs are tray/ - it was performing same as mine - stable to about 3,3GHz, after witch - not stable no matter of the CPU voltage - tried up to 1,43V. Does the NB require active cooling at 300 FSB, maybe that's part of the poor overclock results....and yes, I've read the 1st posts in that topic....and the SB has a Zalman cooler on it:

http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/...ad.asp?idx=131


Let me know if u have any luck with bios other than 1301. it woudl be nice to get this to oc better. i think it may be the e5200fsb wall but maybe a di bios will tell


----------



## bittbull187

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
What is your E8400 running at on your current board?

its running at 3.6ghz


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
1. ThermalRight Ultra Extreme (its a CPU cooler)
2. Heres my guide:
a) remove motherboard
b) use pliers to squeeze white pins back through motherboard (from the back)
c) do (b) to the second push pin
d) gently persuade NB cooler off the motherboard
e) clean off TIM (this will be a grey colour)
f) install new NB cooler as per instructions in box
g) get beer and pat self on back
3. TIM is Thermal Compound which aids the transfer of heat between chips and coolers, its used because no two surfaces are perfectly flat and TIM replaces the air gaps that would otherwise exist. I use MX-2

Can you rotate that cooler? so the pipes don't interfere with the NB cooling.

You're right the S-1283 is generally a CPU cooler and is a large beast. In size terms its similar to my TRUE. You'd want something alot smaller and cheaper (but a fan is advisable)

Can you CLICK THIS and fill in the form for us too

Done. Thank you so much.
I am looking into shopping and getting opinions on a new NB cooler and how I will be able to replace the one I currently have with it.

Until then I am going to buy a small fan for the stock NB heatsink.
I was reading online that the best way is to blow air towards the heatsink and not away from it. Is this correct?


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MereAlias*


Done. Thank you so much.
I am looking into shopping and getting opinions on a new NB cooler and how I will be able to replace the one I currently have with it.

Until then I am going to buy a small fan for the stock NB heatsink. 
I was reading online that the best way is to blow air towards the heatsink and not away from it. Is this correct?


I would do as you describe blow air towards/over the cooler. either top down or across from the side. Whichecer you can pre-fab a way to hold the fan in place.
Check out the other forums and someone may have a piccy for some ideas.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bittbull187*


its running at 3.6ghz


Can you go any further? Zippit got hers to 4Ghz on the P5N-E


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Can you go any further? Zippit got hers to 4Ghz on the P5N-E


Hell yeah!


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Can you go any further? Zippit got hers to 4Ghz on the P5N-E



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Hell yeah!


C'mon man for the good of the thread get that baby going faster!


----------



## eminded1

zippit i would love to have a 1:1 ratio with you... oooooooooooooooooooooo
Aslos zippit, u still got your p5n-e pencild. does the pencil wear off?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
zippit i would love to have a 1:1 ratio with you... oooooooooooooooooooooo
Aslos zippit, u still got your p5n-e pencild. does the pencil wear off?

Good one... but no.

Yes I have and no it wont.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Good one... but no.


Gotta admit, he's got some good ones. lol.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Gotta admit, he's got some good ones. lol.


I sigged them.









I'll make a wall of worst pick up lines. ^^


----------



## sha

To Zippit,

I think, I have the same video card as yours but your video bios seems to have a updated bios,







I think again LoL









*Take a LQQK:*










---> Is there a way to flash the bios?


----------



## MereAlias

Does anybody else use this ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i board with the stock passive northbridge heat sink from ASUS?

It is so close to the RAM slots and creates so much heat.

Just today I got a 80mm fan and it is amazing in my opinion how effective it is and how now my RAM isn't even slightly warm to the touch. It is the temp it normally is when my computer isn't even on.

Not to mention, my video card is on avg 5 degrees C cooler.

It looks kind of silly because I literally have some sturdy thread along with strategic minimal taping that is keeping the 80mm fan in the correct spot, but I haven't ever really cared much for looks anyways.





I am glad I decided to finally take care of this and I don't think I will be buying a different heatsink which I am grateful for because although it sounds like fun, I am also sort of reluctant (scared).

The reason I was probably having problems with thinks freezing was probably because of over heating RAM because of their proximity to the NB passive heatsink. And, that is probably why towards the end of my old RAM I started getting many freezes and even got a BSOD once or twice because of a hardware problem.


----------



## squall325

do I still need to do the vdrop mode if I'm not going to overclock?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sha* 
To Zippit,

I think, I have the same video card as yours but your video bios seems to have a updated bios,







I think again LoL









*Take a LQQK:*










---> Is there a way to flash the bios?

nibitor @ Softpedia.
editied for newer version & to note that you highlighted the core version. iirc I think that is an update to the silicon and can't be changed.


----------



## eminded1

@ Zippt. wow i feel specil now YaY

NOTE: The maximum potenshal of the chip IS Limited by the motherboard E5200, I have proved this to my self. I dowgraded my bios from 1301 to 1201 and now i can get my fsb up to 1337 334X10.5=3500MHZ and i got my ram at 1010 501x2 with a 2:3 Ratio.
I am very happy to push another 200mhc outa the fsb.,. all because i downgraded to bios verson 1201. i wonder what woudl happen if i go to another board. anyway.. YEY


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *squall325* 
do I still need to do the vdrop mode if I'm not going to overclock?

first see how bad the vdroop is. use cpuz or hwmonitor to check your vcore at idle and then at load.

if its significant then it may be worth it do it...

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
@ Zippt. wow i feel specil now YaY

NOTE: The maximum potenshal of the chip IS Limited by the motherboard E5200, I have proved this to my self. I dowgraded my bios from 1301 to 1201 and now i can get my fsb up to 1337 334X10.5=3500MHZ and i got my ram at 1010 501x2 with a 2:3 Ratio.
I am very happy to push another 200mhc outa the fsb.,. all because i downgraded to bios verson 1201. i wonder what woudl happen if i go to another board. anyway.. YEY

isnt that ram rated at 800mhz? you should leave it at stock and then try overclocking the cpu. probably the memory holding you back.

i would rather run my ram at lower speeds with tighter timings.

4-4-4-12 @ 800mhz > 5-5-5-18 @ 1000mhz


----------



## eminded1

INTEL!! Intel wants MORE MHZ its aloways more MHZ rams out today that are rated at 1000mhz at in the 5 cas latency, rams at 2000 are in the 9 class latency, look at these pics, notice every little detail. one of them is 444 stock 800mzh in 4 latency. look!

LOL my machine refused to boot at a serton mhz so i turned it higher and it works flawlessly. wow. the things that make me go


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


INTEL!! Intel wants MORE MHZ its aloways more MHZ rams out today that are rated at 1000mhz at in the 5 cas latency, rams at 2000 are in the 9 class latency, look at these pics, notice every little detail. one of them is 444 stock 800mzh in 4 latency. look!

LOL my machine refused to boot at a serton mhz so i turned it higher and it works flawlessly. wow. the things that make me go











800MHz CAS3>1000MHz CAS4>1200MHz CAS5. Personal experience with the P5N-E SLI and Micron D9GMH benchmarks.


----------



## eminded1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


800MHz CAS3>1000MHz CAS4>1200MHz CAS5. Personal experience with the P5N-E SLI and Micron D9GMH benchmarks.










ok so what your saying is 800mhz is greater than 1000mhz and 1000 mhz is greater than 1200mhz. I m confused by your statement


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


ok so what your saying is 800mhz is greater than 1000mhz and 1000 mhz is greater than 1200mhz. I m confused by your statement


Yes, you get more bandwidth (MB/s) and lower latency (ns) with tighter timings (CAS) and lower MHz.


----------



## eminded1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


Yes, you get more bandwidth (MB/s) and lower latency (ns) with tighter timings (CAS) and lower MHz.


Not with my ram, i have 55518,22 1010mhz the voltage set at 2.2 i get less latency about 53. instead of 44412 at 800 2.1v wicth is 57

as for total memory increase i get 1-2 GBPS on everst in about everything with the cas 5 1010MHZ so i do go buy that and jsut look atm y pic a few posts back, one of them is stock and one of them is OCedl, i have ran memtest for a few hours no errors rams get warn not insane hot i got fan on it, anyway

As far as more mHZ for intel! yes my thoughts Are true that More MHZ is always faster than low cas and low mhz, in other words
the more mhz the better, highest mhz at its lowest cas i guess, but they have cas 9 out now so yhea. BAHHHH


----------



## Zippit

I keep my mem at 888 with 5-4-4-10 timings... I find that that is the fastest.


----------



## Ravin

This case:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
800MHz CAS3>1000MHz CAS4>1200MHz CAS5. Personal experience with the P5N-E SLI and Micron D9GMH benchmarks.









And this one:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
Not with my ram, i have 55518,22 1010mhz the voltage set at 2.2 i get less latency about 53. instead of 44412 at 800 2.1v wicth is 57

Are different. 800MHz CAS4 is pretty common, as is ~1000MHz CAS5.
On the other hand, 800MHz CAS3 and 1000MHz CAS4 are very tight timings.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
as for total memory increase i get 1-2 GBPS on everst in about everything with the cas 5 1010MHZ so i do go buy that and jsut look atm y pic a few posts back, one of them is stock and one of them is OCedl, i have ran memtest for a few hours no errors rams get warn not insane hot i got fan on it, anyway

If it works for you, and is not broke then dont fix it. YMMV.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
As far as more mHZ for intel! yes my thoughts Are true that More MHZ is *always* faster than low cas and low mhz, in other words
the more mhz the better, highest mhz at its lowest cas i guess, but they have cas 9 out now so yhea. BAHHHH

That one word makes this statment false. I'm not too enlightened on how Nehalem handles RAM, but this may not be the case. I know for sure that 800MHz CAS3 whopped 1000MHz and 1066MHz CAS4, which whooped 1200MHz CAS5 on *MY* P5NE-SLI/Q6600/Micron D9GMH. Look back about 500 pages...


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MereAlias* 
Does anybody else use this ASUS P5N-E SLI 650i board with the stock passive northbridge heat sink from ASUS?

It is so close to the RAM slots and creates so much heat.

Just a note for you - if it "feels" hot, or IS hot, it is doing it's job. The more heat you feel, the better.
If you DON'T feel heat, that means either your chip is very cool (ie nice and low voltage etc) or your chip is burning up under an insufficient cooler!

The point of the heatsink is to dissipate the heat from the chip. If the chip is 65C, and the cooler is only 40C... you have a problem. The better the cooler/paste setup, the closer the numbers will be. Efficiency is key!









*Zippit* - I'm diggin' the new avatar







Mucho better than the last.
Has an artsy feel... wonderin' what you're lookin at! hah.

*Ravin*- Glad to see you back, and a damn big LOL @ the 'look back 500 pages' haha.


----------



## eminded1

in speedfan what is the chipset temp is it temp 1, 2, 3 i dont know well i think i know. but anyone knoe it for a fact how to get an accuate reading of how hot the northbridge is,


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
*Ravin*- Glad to see you back, and a damn big LOL @ the 'look back 500 pages' haha.

I still like to pop in on my 650i peeps once in a while. TBH I'm surprized at the lifespan of this board- like the Energizer Bunny. Well, it is a great budget board for duals+SLI. I just had to get that extra little from the quad and really wanted an ATI to fold on (pre-nVidia folding).


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
*Zippit* - I'm diggin' the new avatar







Mucho better than the last.
Has an artsy feel... wonderin' what you're lookin at! hah.

I'm looking at my own posts. ^^ Keeping an eye on my grammar.


----------



## Stenlius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
@ Zippt. wow i feel specil now YaY

NOTE: The maximum potenshal of the chip IS Limited by the motherboard E5200, I have proved this to my self. I dowgraded my bios from 1301 to 1201 and now i can get my fsb up to 1337 334X10.5=3500MHZ and i got my ram at 1010 501x2 with a 2:3 Ratio.
I am very happy to push another 200mhc outa the fsb.,. all because i downgraded to bios verson 1201. i wonder what woudl happen if i go to another board. anyway.. YEY

Gonna try to do the same - downgrade the BIOS to 1201 and test if the overclock is slightly better....hope it'll happen this weekend with the vdroop mod also.


----------



## eminded1

i dont like the droop mod .. maybe im jsut doign it with the wrong pencil, anyone recommened a good pencil. does it have to be mechanical?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
i dont like the droop mod .. maybe im jsut doign it with the wrong pencil, anyone recommened a good pencil. does it have to be mechanical?

Nope- plain woodies work great. I like to use a 3B or 4B from the local arts & crafts store. Grading from hardest to softest goes 9H, 8H...2H, H, F, HB, 2B...8B, 9B.


----------



## 3rdworld

Has anyone had any luck running 4 HDD on this board? I have one lying around and i am planning on using it for an upcoming HTPC build. However I need to put 4tb of HDD space and just wondering if anyone has had any experience with all four sata ports being used?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *3rdworld* 
Has anyone had any luck running 4 HDD on this board? I have one lying around and i am planning on using it for an upcoming HTPC build. However I need to put 4tb of HDD space and just wondering if anyone has had any experience with all four sata ports being used?

I'm using 2 x 500gb in RAID0, 1 x 450gb and 1 x 370gb. Its all happy and still working like a charm.


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Just a note for you - if it "feels" hot, or IS hot, it is doing it's job. The more heat you feel, the better.
If you DON'T feel heat, that means either your chip is very cool (ie nice and low voltage etc) or your chip is burning up under an insufficient cooler!

The point of the heatsink is to dissipate the heat from the chip. If the chip is 65C, and the cooler is only 40C... you have a problem. The better the cooler/paste setup, the closer the numbers will be. Efficiency is key!









*Zippit* - I'm diggin' the new avatar







Mucho better than the last.
Has an artsy feel... wonderin' what you're lookin at! hah.

*Ravin*- Glad to see you back, and a damn big LOL @ the 'look back 500 pages' haha.

So do you think having a fan right on it (the heatsink) blowing at it could possibly be a bad thing and cause it to not effectively be cooling my chip? I don't think so, because the temps in speed fan and asus PC Probe II all are showing me lower temps even after heavy load use for hours.

Either way, I think it is sub par design because the heatsink gets so hot and is so close to the ram slots that it literally causes system instability by slowly cooking the ram sticks.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *3rdworld* 
Has anyone had any luck running 4 HDD on this board? I have one lying around and i am planning on using it for an upcoming HTPC build. However I need to put 4tb of HDD space and just wondering if anyone has had any experience with all four sata ports being used?

I had mine filled up. The onboard RAID was kind of slow compared to the PCI IDE RAID card I had.


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MereAlias* 
So do you think having a fan right on it (the heatsink) blowing at it could possibly be a bad thing and cause it to not effectively be cooling my chip? I don't think so, because the temps in speed fan and asus PC Probe II all are showing me lower temps even after heavy load use for hours.

Either way, I think it is sub par design because the heatsink gets so hot and is so close to the ram slots that it literally causes system instability by slowly cooking the ram sticks.

1- Just about every NB out there is in a similar spot compared to the RAM...








2- It's not really a sub par design. Just change the thermal paste and you are good for 1.5v
3- As I said, the hotter the COOLER itself gets, that's more HEAT dissipation from your CHIP.
4- No, a fan blowing on it is only GOOD. Not bad.
5- The temp you are speaking of in speedfan is in the CHIP itself, not the heatsink. If I remember correctly it is actually a mean (average) of the NB and SB together. So it is not accurate really to go by one temp for two chips.

Basically, what I explained in my last post to you was that hot heatsinks mean the heat is getting OUT of your chip, and to the sink, as it were designed. If your CHIP is even hotter (by a lot) than your heatsink, then you need MORE cooling, like a fan or aftermarket sink.
And I stress again - a lot of NB chips are that close to the ram slots, it's ATX design really.

*@Zippit* hah. Lovin that idea. Checkin your own posts. hah.

*@Ravin* Did you ever do anything with your board? Folding?


----------



## 3rdworld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I'm using 2 x 500gb in RAID0, 1 x 450gb and 1 x 370gb. Its all happy and still working like a charm.










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
I had mine filled up. The onboard RAID was kind of slow compared to the PCI IDE RAID card I had.

Thanks guys +


----------



## pheoxs

Random news update: MB is @ Asus so hopefully it'll get fixed up all better and sent back soon...


----------



## dpawl31

You ought to have it by fall Pheoxs! lol...

Good luck!


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
You ought to have it by fall Pheoxs! lol...

Good luck!

Seems so ... my "backup" MB has been sitting in customs for a week now ...


----------



## dpawl31

And I thought it was rough getting the Ipod I won in the freebie poem contest on here from canada, took like 6 days. lol.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 








And I thought it was rough getting the Ipod I won in the freebie poem contest on here from canada, took like 6 days. lol.

lol that seems about right. In total if my RMA with Asus goes smoothly it will take a grand total of 4-5 weeks ... ... ... IF it goes smoothly.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
*@Ravin* Did you ever do anything with your board? Folding?

Hooked a homie up. I chucked an old ASUS a7nbx with a fried athlon. The case was caked with dust, all the fans were burnt....died of neglect...

I gave him, essentially, everything but the video card and case/ODDs.

That blue PSU you see there is an Enermax 465W, it's very old. I bought it in 1996, and it is a workhorse. Even ran the Quad for a while.

The CPU was my D820 that I got from Intel RMA- still in the shrink wrap. Never been above stock clocks.

The RAM was my old PQI 533mhz 2x1Gb kit that I ran hard....still solid too.

One of the HDDs were his, the other one an old 20Gb Maxtor ATA133...almost as old as the PSU....

I have a million fans, so I hooked him up there too.

He ran [email protected] as a service for me for a while, at least that's where most of my points came from when we were moving last year. My sig rig was down for nearly 3 months, and he helped fill the gap and put points up for me and Team37726. Actually he called me the other day, his bad browsing habits and p2p usage got him infected...so he needed some install advice. He's going to probably help us out again.


----------



## eminded1

this board is flakey, if i run at a 1337 fsb and the multi down to 10.5, if i hard reset the computer ALWAYS i will have to manually take the cmos battry out and reconfig my settings every time.. this is very annoying nayw way to fixthius?


----------



## Stenlius

yesterday I did the voltmod and now running @3,59GHz stable @1,42V - 1,39x from BIOS, the MB now overvolts with 0,2-0,3V, the Vdroop is gone for good...also the CPU cooler is ZeroTherm BTF90, I think the NB overheats and is limiting the overclock, gonna think for some active cooling with 60 mm fan soon...


----------



## Zippit

What voltmod?


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
What voltmod?

I think he is talking about the vdroop pencil mod.


----------



## RaBidRaBit

Has anyone used a Xigmatech 1283 CPU cooler with this board? Does it fit and clear the nb heatsink? Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Sorry for the double post. I didn't realize that I was the last to post in this thread (it was 16 hours ago!!)


----------



## Stenlius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RaBidRaBit* 
I think he is talking about the vdroop pencil mod.

Sorry, yes, I'm talking about the Vdroop pencil mod, did it with 2B pencil and scratched 5 or 6 times over the resistor, I guess it was too much


----------



## eminded1

if u do it dtoo much theres no change ithink. just a little bit. righ zippit. just a lit bit


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


if u do it dtoo much theres no change ithink. just a little bit. righ zippit. just a lit bit


If its to much just rub it off an reapply.


----------



## MereAlias

I was hoping to get some help with FSB to Memory ratio.

I have my FSB set to 1333 MHz (default) and I have two 1GB memory modules set to 667 MHz from 800 MHz.

Is this a 1:1 ratio?

I read somewhere that to figure out the ratio you take the FSB/4 compared to the Memory/2. Is that how you do it? Also, if you have four memory modules does that change anything and would you divide Memory by 4 instead?

Also, is it really that beneficial to have a 1:1 ratio?
Or, would I be better off with my ram set to its 800 MHz stock setting?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MereAlias* 
I was hoping to get some help with FSB to Memory ratio.

I have my FSB set to 1333 MHz (default) and I have two 1GB memory modules set to 667 MHz from 800 MHz.

Is this a 1:1 ratio?

I read somewhere that to figure out the ratio you take the FSB/4 compared to the Memory/2. Is that how you do it? Also, if you have four memory modules does that change anything and would you divide Memory by 4 instead?

Also, is it really that beneficial to have a 1:1 ratio?
Or, would I be better off with my ram set to its 800 MHz stock setting?

Thanks for any help.

yep in most bios' the FSB is quad pumped... e.g. 2000 = 500fsb. and to keep a 1:1 divider you do divide or multiply by 2 depending on which way you read your fsb. 2000/2 = 1000mhz ram for 1:1.

500fsb x 2 = 1000mhz ram for 1:1

1:1 can be beneficial and i always try to use that ratio but do some bench marking and see which one yields more performance.

also since your running your run at lower spec you could tighten those timings up quite a bit. if your at 5-5-5-15 try 4-4-4-12... if thats stable try going lower.

that would yield best results IMO.


----------



## dieanotherday

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
If its to much just rub it off an reapply.

you look like one of those commercial girls =D.


----------



## MereAlias

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


yep in most bios' the FSB is quad pumped... e.g. 2000 = 500fsb. and to keep a 1:1 divider you do divide or multiply by 2 depending on which way you read your fsb. 2000/2 = 1000mhz ram for 1:1.

500fsb x 2 = 1000mhz ram for 1:1

1:1 can be beneficial and i always try to use that ratio but do some bench marking and see which one yields more performance.

also since your running your run at lower spec you could tighten those timings up quite a bit. if your at 5-5-5-15 try 4-4-4-12... if thats stable try going lower.

that would yield best results IMO.


Thanks so much for the advice.

Yea my ram is stock: 5-5-5-15 at 800 MHz and my my FSB is 1333.

Now that I'm at 1:1 with 667 MHz set for the RAM I will definitely look into trying to set my RAM to 4-4-4-12 soon.


----------



## pheoxs

Can someone link me to the Vdroop pic? I know its in here at least 10 times but I'd rather not look through 8700 posts finding it lol.

P.S. Zippit your new avy looks good.


----------



## mcogan10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MereAlias*


Thanks so much for the advice.

Yea my ram is stock: 5-5-5-15 at 800 MHz and my my FSB is 1333.

Now that I'm at 1:1 with 667 MHz set for the RAM I will definitely look into trying to set my RAM to 4-4-4-12 soon.


I think you will benefit from the extra speed...these Intel platforms don't like the tighter timings as much as AMD does, and you might be better off just running your ram faster than the FSB.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Can someone link me to the Vdroop pic? I know its in here at least 10 times but I'd rather not look through 8700 posts finding it lol.

P.S. Zippit your new avy looks good.











Its on the first page... and thanks.


----------



## dpawl31

Yep. I put her pencil'n guide in post 3 I believe, click on the work THIS right before RESISTOR. lol


----------



## Stenlius

Things are getting better for me, 3,75 GHz for benchmark, not tested for stability yet







. The NB has a 60 mm fan blowing towards it, it really helped.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Its on the first page... and thanks.









Doh ... its been so long since I've actually gone through this entire thread let alone check out the first page, maybe one weekend I'll have to catchup on everything.


----------



## dpawl31

Don't worry about the jibber jabber on the last 880 pages lol.
The first pages compiles just about everything, and anything else is answered here on a need-to-know basis.

Trust me, when I was gone for ~1 year, and came back to HUNDREDS of pages more, I went through about 85 and said screw it lol.


----------



## Asce

Seems so long since that first post now, doesnt it?


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dpawl31*


Don't worry about the jibber jabber on the last 880 pages lol.
The first pages compiles just about everything, and anything else is answered here on a need-to-know basis.

Trust me, when I was gone for ~1 year, and came back to HUNDREDS of pages more, I went through about 85 and said screw it lol.


Lol ... thats pretty much what I'm thinking, ill be gone 4 months of the summer so that should easily put this thread at 10k posts...


----------



## S2000_Skyline12

Can a Q8200 work on this? I really wanna upgrade my CPU this sunday and I don't think I can get a E8400 as there is only one left..

I have the latest bios (1301)


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2000_Skyline12* 
Can a Q8200 work on this? I really wanna upgrade my CPU this sunday and I don't think I can get a E8400 as there is only one left..

I have the latest bios (1301)

Just looked, its not officially on their site, however 45nm dual-cores are, it may work, but its not officially supported.

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...Language=en-us

search for p5n-e sli on the left and it will lead you to supported processors and which BIOS is needed (which won't be a problem since you have the latest)


----------



## quakermaas

A small bit there about somebody with a q8200 in the p5n-e sli board and trying to overclock to 3.2 , it sounds like it will work OK, but as said before "not officially supported"

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.co...d.php?t=310878


----------



## dpawl31

It's not how LONG ago the first post was in time... it's how many damn posts/pages this thing is.
Still boggles my mind knowing I started this... over 2 years ago... and EIGHT HUNDRED, nearly NINE HUNDRED pages long!

Give it a few more years, it'll be
_over nine thousandddddddddddddddddddd_.

(hah... man, I HATE anime crap, but that's STILL funny...)


----------



## Hakfu

Heya, Im a long time p5n-e sli owner. But just recently started this whole overclocking thing. I've read already too many pages bout this, and now Ive finished researching my boards fsb holes. But just when I was going to start actually overclocking, I ran into a question. 
What else is likely to cause blue screen of death than too low voltages?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hakfu*


Heya, Im a long time p5n-e sli owner. But just recently started this whole overclocking thing. I've read already too many pages bout this, and now Ive finished researching my boards fsb holes. But just when I was going to start actually overclocking, I ran into a question. 
What else is likely to cause blue screen of death than too low voltages?


Bad/incompatible RAM, too high OC on RAM/CPU/GPU, too tight timings on RAM, weak PSU, bad/wrong drivers, too high voltages, too much heat, failing hardware....








probably a few I missed too.


----------



## Hakfu

Bad/incompatible RAM Nope
too high OC on RAM/CPU/GPU Didnt start yet =o
too tight timings on RAM Stock
weak PSU  Corsair 520hx, shouldnt be?
bad/wrong drivers drivers of ?
too high voltages more likely too low atm
too much heat Cores are 34 on load, rest is under 30
failing hardware. nothing I can think of

But yea, are there many bios settings that can cause this. Basicly I just put every setting on manual but as far as I know, to stock. And it randomly bluescreens, any other ideas?


----------



## SHREDDER383

let me start off with, i love this forum, you dont find this dedication everyday, ive got this board paired up with a E6420 which ive heard is a mad overclocker and we all know what this board can do, im running an antec 650 watt psu and 4 gigs of patriot extreme perf memory 4-4-4-12. ive got a huge roswill cooler on my cpu, active cooling on the northbridge and the southbridge is heatsinked to, of corse its all with as5, ive got all my voltages
were i think they should be, not really worried about temps my stuff runs ice cool at 30-31c cores, my bios shows my mem at 800 and fsb 1066, i know this is simple math but coming from an older opteron setup i am humbly confused, dont get me wrong i know my way around a bios screen but i want an easy 3.2 overclock and i know these e6420's can go higher, the multiplier is 8, can you guys give me some quick pointers to what i should be setting the mem and fsb to and so on, my northbridge and mem volts are already bumped, thanks in advance, im on this site all day and if you need any other info dont hesitate to ask, thanks


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SHREDDER383*


let me start off with, i love this forum, you dont find this dedication everyday, ive got this board paired up with a E6420 which ive heard is a mad overclocker and we all know what this board can do, im running an antec 650 watt psu and 4 gigs of patriot extreme perf memory 4-4-4-12. ive got a huge roswill cooler on my cpu, active cooling on the northbridge and the southbridge is heatsinked to, of corse its all with as5, ive got all my voltages
were i think they should be, not really worried about temps my stuff runs ice cool at 30-31c cores, my bios shows my mem at 800 and fsb 1066, i know this is simple math but coming from an older opteron setup i am humbly confused, dont get me wrong i know my way around a bios screen but i want an easy 3.2 overclock and i know these e6420's can go higher, the multiplier is 8, can you guys give me some quick pointers to what i should be setting the mem and fsb to and so on, my northbridge and mem volts are already bumped, thanks in advance, im on this site all day and if you need any other info dont hesitate to ask, thanks











Umm ... Every chip/board is slightly different so there is no exact numbers, I will give you a starter place / idea.

Best to go slowly in increments and figure out your own voltages/speeds.

For my e6400 and p5n-e sli (not e6420 tho)
Vcore=1.25V
and +100mv offset giving me 1.35V, the stock voltage (VID) is 1.325, a slight bump over stock.
Memory voltage 2.1V, what my sticks are rated for
NB voltage = 1.5xx option

Overclock settings:
Everything on manual
FSB 1600 (400 quad-pumped)
Memory: Sync'd gives 800mhz ram which is what your sticks are rated for stock
Memory timings: 4-4-4-12 (again what my sticks are rated for)

Umm ... thats all I can remember off the top of my head without rebooting to look at the BIOS. Goodluck!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hakfu*


Bad/incompatible RAM Nope
too high OC on RAM/CPU/GPU Didnt start yet =o
too tight timings on RAM Stock
weak PSU Corsair 520hx, shouldnt be?
bad/wrong drivers drivers of ?
too high voltages more likely too low atm
too much heat Cores are 34 on load, rest is under 30
failing hardware. nothing I can think of

But yea, are there many bios settings that can cause this. Basicly I just put every setting on manual but as far as I know, to stock. And it randomly bluescreens, any other ideas?


Can you please fill in your system specs so we have a better idea of what your using: http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem

Looking at your answers though:

What ram are you using? Certain sticks are incompatible and cause BSOD frequently.
Could be a faulty ram stick, try one stick at a time and see if it still does it.
Your PSU, depending on what is in the rest of your system it could be too weak. I.E. a GTX260 or GX2 would draw too much power for that PSU
Drivers for anything really, a faulty/incompatible driver could cause problems, what operating system are you using?
Too low of voltage? That is likely your problem
34C under loaded and 30C at rest isn't possible, there would be a larger jump in temperatures. To get a better view of temperatures use Coretemp to monitor and Orthos to stress your computer.


----------



## Hakfu

I meant that rest of the components are under 30c. Cpu at idle is around 21c, whilst my room temperature is 18c.

Edit: If the drivers dont cause any trouble while having bios at default, could they cause after I change bios settings?

The voltages I just tried to put near stock, maybe undercutting it by a bit. Tho Im conserned about my vdroop. Is 0,05-6V too much?

-One other weird thing is that on "Auto" settings my bios wants to put my memory running 667 / 5-5-5-15 1T. Why is that?

One more =p What can cause my board not being able to boot with any amount of Fsb from 1501, highest amount I've tried to get past this "hole" was 1850, more wouldn't help would it?
Ive also tried upping voltages but no help.


----------



## SHREDDER383

so if i leave the mem linked, just adjust the fsb and the mem will adjust accordingly?
correct me if im wrong...


----------



## Hakfu

If I've understood correctly, the only problem would be that you could easily blow up your mems like that.

Tho, Im clearly no expert in this subject.


----------



## SHREDDER383

thats were i get confused


----------



## Hakfu

You should confim this from somewhere. But I think its that you do not want to overclock your memory so much, cause it doesn't need it nor handle it. So if you have synced mode and don't count everything carefully you might raise your memory clock too high causing a screw up. So you better go unlinked mode or count everything so that your fsb will be as high as you want but still having a rational memory clock.

Many people for example run in 1:1 mode with 1600fsb and 800mem.
(As you probably know, fsb is quad pumped and memory dual. So you need to divide fsb by 4 and mem by 2 to get the comparative amounts.)

Ps. Still hoping to get responses to my post 8814


----------



## SHREDDER383

I believe when in auto mode your memory is set to its most stable clocks, my memory stock speed is 4-4-4-12 at 2.1 volts stock, but my mobo stock mem
volts was 1.8 therefore it wanted to run my mem at 5-5-5-15 until i set my
mem voltage to 2.1 them i could set my timings accordingly, anyone feel free to correct me if im wrong,

so your saying leave my bios memory setting at 800mhz unlinked and just bump my fsb in small increments?, or set it to 400 or 533 and then bump my fsb?


----------



## Hakfu

If I were you I'd leave it at 800Mhz Unlinked mode and bump your fsb in small increments.

Thought, as said earlier. I am a newbie at overclocking too so..

Ps. Still hoping to get responses to my post 8814


----------



## SHREDDER383

overclocking this thing has been an obsesion of mine and i need to get it cured, i can overclock the crap out ov my vid card so naturally i want the most out of my cpu, il try leaving it at 800mhz and just bump the fsb, well see what happens


----------



## dpawl31

In the 3rd post on the front page of this thread, I quote myself:

Quote:



When overclocking, run a 1:1 divider for stability. This can be achieved by using UNLINKED mode and MANUALLY entering 1:1 values, ie 1000FSB and 500DDR, or you can choose LINKED-->SYNC Mode to run a 1:1 divider.
AUTO will keep your FSB/RAM linked, which is bad because it will constantly run a 1:2 divider due to the BIOS displaying QDR and DDR values.

There is a LOT of info on the first 3 posts... specifically the 3rd one.
Tribeca's overclocking guide is there as well.
Please read in thoroughly.

On another note, how was everyone's easter?


----------



## SHREDDER383

i hear ya, sorry about the lame questions after about 50 pages it all starts to blur


----------



## Hakfu

If the drivers dont cause any trouble while having bios at default, could they cause after I change bios settings?

Im conserned about my vdroop. Is 0,05-6V too much?

What can cause my bios want to put my memory running 667 / 5-5-5-15 1T on "Auto"? (800mhz 4-4-4-12 mem)

Is there anyway to fix my board not being able to boot with any amount of Fsb from 1501. Highest amount I've tried to get past this possible "hole" was 1850, more wouldn't help would it?


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
On another note, how was everyone's easter?









Managed to throw out my back on easter and its finally just starting to get better. I could barely walk on Tuesday but the pain went away very quickly that night thanks to _some_ alcohol. I'm still outta beer from that night too... well, I guess I gotta pick up a pack of Yuengling tomorrow sometime


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
On another note, how was everyone's easter?









EGG-citing


----------



## zoieta

Hello, i would like to know, what is the best bios for overclock a Dual Core on this motherboard..

i just got my E5200 @ 3700mhz 1.47v bios 0901..i already tested the 1201 and 1301, but with those, 3700mhz needed 1.55v...

im running on 12.5x296, and cannot go over it.. i can put 1.6vcore and dont go..

on bios 0608, i was running a C2D E4300 @ 3420 (9x380), so its not the motherboard.. i think my E5200 got FSB Wall.. or that bios 0901 dont leave me go over 296fsb.. i already tried 11.5x333, 12x316, and dont boot..

who is caping, the mobo or the processor ?


----------



## dpawl31

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
EGG-citing










Oh no... he went there


----------



## Hakfu

Hmm, I could use some clarification here.

My bios is running my memory on 667Mhz on auto settings, and if I try to raise it the comp becomes unstable even though my memory clearly is 800Mhz memory as it states here: http://www.valueram.com/datasheets/KHX6400D2LLK2_2G.pdf

I emailed a question about this to the shop I bought my comps parts from.
They answered me:
"Hey,
The rates depend a bit on what motherboard and processor you are using. If you are using that e6600 which was in your order. The processor's external bus speed is 1066 so the speed of the memory is 533. Higher speed than that is overclocking." -a free translation

Is this all correct, and does it mean that I shouldn't be able to run memory at higher speed than 533 with a E6600 -1066 bus speed cpu. If not, what have I understood incorrectly?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dpawl31* 
Oh no... he went there









maybe should said Egg-Sighting?


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hakfu* 
Hmm, I could use some clarification here.

My bios is running my memory on 667Mhz on auto settings, and if I try to raise it the comp becomes unstable even though my memory clearly is 800Mhz memory as it states here: http://www.valueram.com/datasheets/KHX6400D2LLK2_2G.pdf

I emailed a question about this to the shop I bought my comps parts from.
They answered me:
"Hey,
The rates depend a bit on what motherboard and processor you are using. If you are using that e6600 which was in your order. The processor's external bus speed is 1066 so the speed of the memory is 533. Higher speed than that is overclocking." -a free translation

Is this all correct, and does it mean that I shouldn't be able to run memory at higher speed than 533 with a E6600 -1066 bus speed cpu. If not, what have I understood incorrectly?

Have you manually set you voltage? I don't know exactly what RAM is it you have, but if it's defaulting at 1.8v, try giving it a little more, 1.9 or 2.0.

cg


----------



## SHREDDER383

thats what i said


----------



## exnihilo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SHREDDER383* 
thats what i said

?? Didn't see it. It bears repeating though, since he asked the question just a couple posts back. 900 pages dude, I'm sure his eyes are about swollen shut







.

cg


----------



## Hakfu

I've upped voltage upto 2,17 didn't help at the time.

Though Ive come up with a possible solution. At the time I wasnt running in 1:1 mode. Could it help if I upped memory while having 1:1 all the time?


----------



## SHREDDER383

I had issues with my ram showing different speeds than stock, and when i added 2 more gigs my system wouldnt even boot until i upped the ram and northbridge voltage, now my ram is at 2.1 which is stock for my ram anyway now windows boots fin and shows my correct speed


----------



## Hakfu

If my system doesn't handle the memory as 800Mhz. Is it overclocking to manually raise it to that level anyway?


----------



## Stenlius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zoieta*


Hello, i would like to know, what is the best bios for overclock a Dual Core on this motherboard..

i just got my E5200 @ 3700mhz 1.47v bios 0901..i already tested the 1201 and 1301, but with those, 3700mhz needed 1.55v...

im running on 12.5x296, and cannot go over it.. i can put 1.6vcore and dont go..

on bios 0608, i was running a C2D E4300 @ 3420 (9x380), so its not the motherboard.. i think my E5200 got FSB Wall.. or that bios 0901 dont leave me go over 296fsb.. i already tried 11.5x333, 12x316, and dont boot..

who is caping, the mobo or the processor ?


The processor should be able to boot to at least 300 MHz FSb...on this setup with E5200 & P5N-E Sli I''ve noticed that if you are at for example 12.5x296, go into BIOS and try to set 11x333 - the MB won't boot, because the multiplier is *STILL* 12,5, which could be seen after the restart - the system displays the last CPU frequency on the boot screen and in my case its 4,16 GHz







. So my way dealing with this is as follows:

1. If the working frequency is 12,5 x [email protected],xx voltage, go into BIOS and lower the multiplyer to the desired value - for example 11. Save & exit BIOS.

2. The system boots at 11 x 296. Go into BIOS and set 310 or similar FSB /and don't forget to set the NB voltage to 1,56 or higher for this FSB/. Save & exit BIOS.

3. If the system boots - go into BIOS and repeat step 3 with higher FSB. If the system doesn't boot - you've hit the FSB wall of your processor. Restart and set again 12,5 x 296, this is important, so the system could boot at the next restart and repeat from step 1.

Hope this helps you guys, and please if someone has similar issues - please let us know







.


----------



## jaihenwood

I'm trying to upgrade my CPU from my old E4300 to a Q9400. But when i boot up i don't get anything...not even a boot screen.

The Q9400 will work with my motherboard right?

anything you can think of i should try? everything seems to be turning on but i get no single to my monitor.

Thanks!


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaihenwood*


I'm trying to upgrade my CPU from my old E4300 to a Q9400. But when i boot up i don't get anything...not even a boot screen.

The Q9400 will work with my motherboard right?

anything you can think of i should try? everything seems to be turning on but i get no single to my monitor.

Thanks!


check your BIOS revision. Earlier revisions did not support 45nm chips. iirc it should be 0803 or later.


----------



## jaihenwood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


check your BIOS revision. Earlier revisions did not support 45nm chips. iirc it should be 0803 or later.


Thanks upgrade to 1301 and it booted into windows but after 20 mins it just locked up and screen froze. Any ideas? should i down grade bios or is this a different problem?

Thanks


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaihenwood*


Thanks upgrade to 1301 and it booted into windows but after 20 mins it just locked up and screen froze. Any ideas? should i down grade bios or is this a different problem?

Thanks


Sounds like something different. Have you started to OC yet? Also are your voltages set manually or still on "Auto"? Have you run Memtest86?

Beyond that it could be a driver issue...


----------



## jaihenwood

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
Sounds like something different. Have you started to OC yet? Also are your voltages set manually or still on "Auto"? Have you run Memtest86?

Beyond that it could be a driver issue...

Nope just Auto settings no overclocking yet. Maybe I should do a fresh windows install?

I was checking out the Asus support pages and it seems like the Q9400 isn't supported for this motherboard?
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jaihenwood*


Nope just Auto settings no overclocking yet. Maybe I should do a fresh windows install?

I was checking out the Asus support pages and it seems like the Q9400 isn't supported for this motherboard?
http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI


Could be that, althoug AFAIK there are a few "non-supported" 45nm CPUs that run very well on the P5N-E. I've seen that be the case on quite a few MB/CPU combos- where many CPUs of one family are officially supported, and a couple not, yet they still work.

Maybe bounce an e-mail to ASUS support...


----------



## zoieta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stenlius*


The processor should be able to boot to at least 300 MHz FSb...on this setup with E5200 & P5N-E Sli I''ve noticed that if you are at for example 12.5x296, go into BIOS and try to set 11x333 - the MB won't boot, because the multiplier is *STILL* 12,5, which could be seen after the restart - the system displays the last CPU frequency on the boot screen and in my case its 4,16 GHz







. So my way dealing with this is as follows:

1. If the working frequency is 12,5 x [email protected],xx voltage, go into BIOS and lower the multiplyer to the desired value - for example 11. Save & exit BIOS.

2. The system boots at 11 x 296. Go into BIOS and set 310 or similar FSB /and don't forget to set the NB voltage to 1,56 or higher for this FSB/. Save & exit BIOS.

3. If the system boots - go into BIOS and repeat step 3 with higher FSB. If the system doesn't boot - you've hit the FSB wall of your processor. Restart and set again 12,5 x 296, this is important, so the system could boot at the next restart and repeat from step 1.

Hope this helps you guys, and please if someone has similar issues - please let us know







.


thanks, i will try do it next weekend


----------



## El_Beautor

Hi again, you guys provide an amazing amount of information about overclocking this board. With your help, I have my E7400 at 3.6Ghz, and I'm hoping to push it over 4.

I have a quick question. The P5N-E that I have I bought used on ebay, so I don't really know its history. Everything on it works great except for the USB. I can't seem to get the OS to recognize any USB devices using the native USB controller. I have a PCI USB card which allows everything to work, but nothing I do seems to be able to get it to work. I've downloaded the latest chipset drivers, played with device manager and everything else I can think of, and I'm out of ideas. I'm using Windows 7 as my OS, but I've tried a Linux distro with the same result.

Any ideas, or is it likely a bad USB controller? I'm not too choked if its the board because I only paid $6 for it.

EDIT: I'm now stress testing at 3.7Ghz. So much fun.


----------



## SHREDDER383

can anyone post screens of your bios settings for your overclocks, just to get a rough idea of were i need to start, you know on/off/auto/fsb all that stuff, my time on my pc is very limited and i dont have the time to do 100 restarts, im not to worried about frying something cause ive got some extra funds right now if something turns to toast, thanks in advance


----------



## sha

Bios rev 1402 is out for the p5n e sli anyone flashed it yet?

Supposed to improve stability for Certain CPU's


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sha* 
Bios rev 1402 is out for the p5n e sli anyone flashed it yet?

Supposed to improve stability for Certain CPU's

i went and checked it out on asus and all it says is that it improves stability for certain cpu's.

LOL could they be any more vague? i might try it out sometime later today though.


----------



## willmarth2

My C2D 6300 was overclocked today from 1.8GHZ to 2.8GHZ. Makes a big difference in Stalker game.


----------



## willmarth2

Does anyone know the best memory for this mb? CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 is not working.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Does anyone know the best memory for this mb? CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 is not working.


I'm loving my OCZ Platinum.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Does anyone know the best memory for this mb? CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 is not working.



Do you think your ram is kaput or just not working with this board?

Others have tested this ram and said it works.

http://www.overclock.net/1617961-post2.html
*Compatible RAM (Not on QVL above- User Tested)*
*DDR2-800
**Corsair XMS2 Twin2X 2x1GB Kit*

Edit: maybe you still have your old ram setting still in bios..do a bios reset, that might kick it into life.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I'm loving my OCZ Platinum.

Agreed. My Plat sticks work perfectly though I wish they would overclock a bit better.

Runs 850mhz @ 4-4-4-8 or 667 @ 3-3-3-6 timings.

And btw Zippit, about the Pink quote in your sig

Quote:

Sometimes, in the heat of the moment, it's forgivable to go AS5 to mouth


----------



## e-t172

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
Does anyone know the best memory for this mb? CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 is not working.

Huh, that's not correct. I'm using Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4 (XMS2 800) and it works like a charm.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pheoxs* 
Agreed. My Plat sticks work perfectly though I wish they would overclock a bit better.

Runs 850mhz @ 4-4-4-8 or 667 @ 3-3-3-6 timings.

And btw Zippit, about the Pink quote in your sig

Clerks 2 FTW.









Also I'm running them on 877 Mhz with 5-4-4-11.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
Does anyone know the best memory for this mb? CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 is not working.

Anything with Micron D9GMH or D9GKX ICs come to mind. The older *low density double sided* Crucials.

Edit: I have a 2x1GB set prooven @ 900MHz 3-3-3-8 1T on the P5NE-SLI


----------



## SHREDDER383

okay so ive got this motherboard paired up with an e6420 @2.13 stock speed, i want to overclock this cpu and its known to be a mad overclocker, should i start with bumping the voltages a little and start bumping the qfsb 1066, (i think thats how the bios has it listed) at like "10" increments, ive got a good cooler on the cpu and northbridge and the
south bridge is heatsinked to, thanks for your help gys


----------



## Ned

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sha* 
Bios rev 1402 is out for the p5n e sli anyone flashed it yet?

Supposed to improve stability for Certain CPU's

I am running 0901, tried to flash to 1301 a couple of weeks ago and I had some problems so I went back to 0901.
2 days ago I installed Windows 7 RC on my second hard drive in a dual boot situation but I am getting BSOD when I game. So I should probably try 1402 and see if this helps.

What is the best way to save your BIOS settings. Will the profile I have saved for 0901 be there or work with 1402?
If not should I just write it all down or is there a way to print it out or take screenshots?

I have all my timing and voltage etc and don't want to go through figuring that out again.


----------



## eminded1

Whoa what is this, new bios P5N-E SLI BIOS 1402
Improve the stability of certain CPU what cpu is that?
I am flashing Rigth now as i post this msg, hol on i gota read the test? impove stability *** is htis in the e5200. hopefully









BTW Zippit Dam uya fine.

Testing now on 1402

960x240 = 3000mhz, e5200, got ram at defult 800 44412 ima see if i cna go higher without alot of volts.

EDIT

Seems Stable at 3ghz, 1.30idle 1.22 massive load, 1.25-26- reg load so i guess ASUS didnt get any of the vdroop outa there, but ima try 3.5ghz maybe i cna get it below 1.45, before i had to do 3.5ghz at 1.46 -1.47 idle and 1.36- 1.38 massive load (linx)


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *quakermaas* 
Do you think your ram is kaput or just not working with this board?

Others have tested this ram and said it works.

http://www.overclock.net/1617961-post2.html
*Compatible RAM (Not on QVL above- User Tested)*
*DDR2-800
**Corsair XMS2 Twin2X 2x1GB Kit*

Edit: maybe you still have your old ram setting still in bios..do a bios reset, that might kick it into life.

I updated my bios without the memory hoping it would work. I still get a blue screen. I have set the voltage to auto, 1.9, and 2.0. Still does not work.


----------



## willmarth2

I have tried to create a bootable memtest floppy and it will not boot. It says replace with bootable disk.


----------



## eminded1

does anyone have any information on with cerition CPU asus gave more stabilty too? in the new bios version 1402? anyone have any ideas?i flashed it yeasterday. theyting seems all good. my ram wont oc as good tho.


----------



## Ned

Just updated to 1402, I will see if that helps with Windows RC7

I took pictures of my BIOS screens.

Also changed power management to high performace from balanced.

I will game tonight and see if I crash.


----------



## eminded1

well i reverted back to 1201 becuase my ram was not bootn at its oced stage, not back on 1201, its booting and is stalbe. so ithink im jsut gon stay with 1201, i wonder what certain cpu is mor stability? I want to know ASUS PLS!!!


----------



## willmarth2

Vista memory test says my CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 are bad. Corsair is replacing them.


----------



## Deegan

^^ that sux the ones i have are the best set of ram ive ever had. i am running 1301 and it is great. i have had this E2180 at 3.87ghz and its solid. nb gets hot but i dont have a fan on it. i just got a 750i sli ftw to replace it and the ASUS is kicking arse in the backup case now


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Vista memory test says my CORSAIR XMS2 2GB DDR2 800 are bad. Corsair is replacing them.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deegan*


^^ that sux the ones i have are the best set of ram ive ever had. i am running 1301 and it is great. i have had this E2180 at 3.87ghz and its solid. nb gets hot but i dont have a fan on it. i just got a 750i sli ftw to replace it and the ASUS is kicking arse in the backup case now


I had a couple of sets of them paired with the Maximus, they never really did that well for me. Ran stock fine, but were crappy ocers.


----------



## Galcobar

Just tried the pencil mod and had an odd result which I've not seen mentioned anywhere else.

Pre-pencil, I had my Vcore set in BIOS at 1.3125; CPU-Z would show it as 1.456 in Windows at idle, 1.408 under Prime95.

Post-pencil, same Vcore setting; idle 1.504, 1.488-1.504 under Prime95.

In short, penciling pushed my Vcore up without a BIOS change. I should note this is with my overclock (2.4>3.2) active.

I've since dropped my BIOS setting to ~1.2V and CPU-Z now shows it as 1.424V idle and 1.408-1.424V load. Funny thing is, this should reduce my idle temperatures, by lowering my voltage at idle.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Galcobar* 
Just tried the pencil mod and had an odd result which I've not seen mentioned anywhere else.

Pre-pencil, I had my Vcore set in BIOS at 1.3125; CPU-Z would show it as 1.456 in Windows at idle, 1.408 under Prime95.

Post-pencil, same Vcore setting; idle 1.504, 1.488-1.504 under Prime95.

In short, penciling pushed my Vcore up without a BIOS change. I should note this is with my overclock (2.4>3.2) active.

I've since dropped my BIOS setting to ~1.2V and CPU-Z now shows it as 1.424V idle and 1.408-1.424V load. Funny thing is, this should reduce my idle temperatures, by lowering my voltage at idle.

So, wait, you pencil Vmodded when your board already was over-volting? or did you have the +100mV on?

And yes, the pencil mod CAN OV beyond what you mean for it to. Remember YMMV.


----------



## thunder12

ok, thanks alot for your help


----------



## Galcobar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


So, wait, you pencil Vmodded when your board already was over-volting? or did you have the +100mV on?

And yes, the pencil mod CAN OV beyond what you mean for it to. Remember YMMV.


Had and still have the +100mV on.

Dropped the BIOS setting down to 1.2375V now; CPU-Z shows 1.424 idle, and 1.408-1.424 loaded. Several hours into Prime95 small-FFTs and everything's stable.


----------



## willmarth2

Has anybody ran 2 8800gts sli cards together on this mb? With games not using quad cpu's yet I am thinking of adding a video card to my ASUS 640mb card.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Has anybody ran 2 8800gts sli cards together on this mb? With games not using quad cpu's yet I am thinking of adding a video card to my ASUS 640mb card.


Yea I'm running two 8800gts 512's in SLI. Make sure you update to the latest BIOS though.


----------



## Icekilla

I really think I should have bought a pair of NVIDIA cards and SLI'ed them


----------



## eminded1

Note on update bios version 1402.,
I have noticed that when im running at a lower multi and a higher fsb, the bios is more stable, so Asus wow, i liek the new bios.... im stable now with 1337 fsb, coulnd nver get past 1200 before.
Wont boot at 1333 tho????


----------



## willmarth2

What are the temperature thresholds for this board?


----------



## eminded1

i would nver go over 70c for proc, 50c for chipset


----------



## willmarth2

My MB feels very cool but I am getting different temps from different utilities. Here is a screen shot of my desktop.


----------



## eminded1

dam yo, that c2d gets hot , thats a dangeros temp for chipset and cores in my eyes, I recommend getting a northbridge heatsink with a fan on it, nvidia makes on its black i have it i never go above 43C no matter waht volt or clock the NB is set at

As for the Core temps
I recommend the Artic Cooling Freezer 7 it shpould be like 30 bucks on ebay if not cheaper by now, and i also recommend u LAP your new heatsink and fan for the cpu and lap the CPu it self that should fix your temps Way down like -20- 30c


----------



## willmarth2

The PC Probe has my CPU at 57 degrees. It's threshold is 61 degrees. Core temp has it at 77 degrees. The air coming out of my case fans are not hot at all. I have an Arctic Freezer Pro 7 and a small fan on NB.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


Note on update bios version 1402.,
I have noticed that when im running at a lower multi and a higher fsb, the bios is more stable, so Asus wow, i liek the new bios.... im stable now with 1337 fsb, coulnd nver get past 1200 before.
Wont boot at 1333 tho????


Hmm.. I'll have to play with this new bios and my Q6600 when I get a chance.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eminded1* 
dam yo, that c2d gets hot , thats a dangeros temp for chipset and cores in my eyes, I recommend getting a northbridge heatsink with a fan on it, nvidia makes on its black i have it i never go above 43C no matter waht volt or clock the NB is set at

As for the Core temps
I recommend the Artic Cooling Freezer 7 it shpould be like 30 bucks on ebay if not cheaper by now, and i also recommend u LAP your new heatsink and fan for the cpu and lap the CPu it self that should fix your temps Way down like -20- 30c

I lowered the frequency down to 2.57 GHZ and the voltage down to 1.2. My core temps never go above 60 C with ORTHOS. Idle is 52 C. PC PROBE had MB at 47 C so I lowered the NB voltage to the lowest voltage. Did not help much. I have a small fan already on it.


----------



## eminded1

pc probe report wrong information. that is a know issue all around for these boards, if u still idle at 52c theres a problem, reseat with as5 or lapp the proc and heatsink, anyway everest is the best program ithink for these boards, accuate readings. better then cpuid and speedfan,
Look up everest
and 52cidle is Hot.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


pc probe report wrong information. that is a know issue all around for these boards, if u still idle at 52c theres a problem, reseat with as5 or lapp the proc and heatsink, anyway everest is the best program ithink for these boards, accuate readings. better then cpuid and speedfan,
Look up everest
and 52cidle is Hot.


I downloaded Everest and could not find the temperature at all.


----------



## Galcobar

After ensuring my existing CPU overclock was still stable post-pencil Vmodding I decided to try overclocking my RAM.

It seems penciling the motherboard made it possible to set a stable RAM overclock at 2.178V (from 800 to 900 MHz at the same 4-4-4-12). Previously I couldn't get a stable RAM overclock at all.

My one concern is if the Vmod means I'm actually running higher voltages through my memory than BIOS indicates; the only reassurance I have that this isn't happening is my system's refusal to boot when I fed it more than 2.3 Vdimm in prior overclock attempts.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


pc probe report wrong information.


I'd like to clarify that your statment is for CPU temp only. PCProbeII reports NB/SB temps and ALL Voltages correctly- at least on the P5NE-SLI and Maximus Formula/P5E/Rampage Formula.

Edit: Voltage info confirmed by Fluke DMM. NB/SB temps confirmed by everest & OCCT


----------



## eminded1

Alls i can say is that if u have a e5200 and the new bios for this board 1402, it is stable,r at a higher FSB, less stable ram tho, but i can live with that, auclly running ram at 900mhz 5,4,4,12, 2t, 2.1vram,


----------



## mavizaman

This is my old cpu o.c. with p5n-e
3.8ghz








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=405184


----------



## eminded1

just for the record, the new bios updates to 1402 beta bios does work well with the e5200, i can get past 1200fsb now, so if anyone has bios crashing after 1200fsb try the 1402, also, if i buy pc2-8500ram? will it be able to run at 1066?


----------



## Scudd

anyone had any luck installing Windows 7 RC1 on the P5n-e Sli, i tried removing all my overclocks, removed all peripherals except my keyboard and mouse but the installation hangs on expanding files.

I think its down to the sata drivers, anyone else tried win7?


----------



## El_Beautor

I've been running Windows 7 Beta since January. I haven't installed the RC yet, but its planned for next weekish. Maybe you got a corrupt download, or you had a problem when you burned it to a DVD. Try downloading it again, and make sure you use a slow setting when you burn the DVD. I had to redo my Beta DVD at a slower speed because the first one burned at a full speed wouldn't install correctly.


----------



## Scudd

I've tried serval copies of 32 and 64 bit, during the install it hangs on expanding files then when i reboot my first drive is missing until i shut down properly, i have had one sucessful install of the 64bit version using nvidia sata drivers but it kept crashing at random times, i have had probs with the nvidia sata drivers in Vista too. Which sata drivers do u use?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scudd*


I've tried serval copies of 32 and 64 bit, during the install it hangs on expanding files then when i reboot my first drive is missing until i shut down properly, i have had one sucessful install of the 64bit version using nvidia sata drivers but it kept crashing at random times, i have had probs with the nvidia sata drivers in Vista too. Which sata drivers do u use?


You're not trying to install overclocked are you?


----------



## Scudd

As i stated in my earlier post i have removed all my overclocks and am trying to install using stock speeds only.


----------



## eminded1

, did u remeber to set your ram at its rates volt and timings, if u have it oin auto, the autop is bad on this board i recommend setting everyhting manally.
As for windows 7, i have the RC1 running and theres been no problems. and dam win 7 is faster than vista in gaming also.


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


, did u remeber to set your ram at its rates volt and timings, if u have it oin auto, the autop is bad on this board i recommend setting everyhting manally.
As for windows 7, i have the RC1 running and theres been no problems. and dam win 7 is faster than vista in gaming also.


^^ This!


----------



## myusernameisdumb

I had this motherboard and selling it to my brother. While I had it, I OC'd it a few times and returned it to stock speed. My brother wishes to OC it but I could only explain how to OC by raising the FSB speed. My brother wants to know if he should link the FSB to the memory bus or leave it unlinked. And if you link it, do you have to change any timings for the Ram modules? The processor is an E8400 C2D and it's running XP professional. I have no idea what bios version it's running but I know I never updated it or flashed it since it was new one year ago.

The RAM is XMS2 Corsair PC26400 and the FSB stock speed is 1333Mhz.


----------



## eminded1

FSB:dram can operate and could even be as fast as it would if u selected 5:4 3:2 1:1, but iv only ran unlinked when finding the highest CPU oc, always find the highest CPU oc then OC the ram, Remember to manaully set your ram also, i have your same ram, set it to 4,4,4,12,trc-22, volts 2.1 and run it at 800, 
As far as ocing the e8400, jsut up the fsb about 1-2 hunderd increments at a time, test with linx 
if it stable good, if not add more vcore!./might want to put up the nbcore also.
**** also, update the bios to the newest one, make sure u make a backup tho of yours and the new one, put it on a flashdrive. heck dl all the bios and put it on flashdrive. use ezflash in the bios menu, reason to backup is if anyhtig did happen. also rember to clear the bios,

i updated to 1402 and iv exprenced more stable OC.


----------



## Scudd

I decided to replace my motherboard, i bought a Gigbyte GA-P35-DS4 and it seems to have sorted my problem. I can only guess it was the sata chipset afterall. Very happy with my new board. Im able to overclock to 3.3ghz which is a huge improvment over the 2.8ghz the p5ne-sli was giving me.


----------



## africandavid

Is it a DDR3 board? I'm thinking of replacing mine so i can benefit from PCIe 2.0 and DDR3 speeds. I don't think it will make much of a difference though. Any thoughts?


----------



## africandavid

How much for that board?? I'm thinking of going for the GA-EP45-UD3P , 3.6Ghz OC with Q6600 G0 slacr and PCIe 2.0.


----------



## Scudd

I got it for 90 pounds from scan.co.uk its no longer on the site must have got the last one. its a DDR2 board. DDR3 doesnt give any real speed boosts so DDR2 is fine for me.


----------



## eminded1

u can clock ddr2 to up to ddr3 speeds, ddr3=new mobo,= corei7=$$$$$$$$$$$$


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


u can clock ddr2 to up to ddr3 speeds, ddr3=new mobo,= corei7=$$$$$$$$$$$$


You have 775 DRR3 mobo's you know.


----------



## Perry

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
You have 775 DRR3 mobo's you know.


----------



## eminded1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


You have 775 DRR3 mobo's you know.


ooodam, owell my next upgrade will be the corei7 since my corrent machine is super fast no need to upgrade yet. maybe croei1 in liek 2 years.


----------



## kthulhu

Hi all! I am new here and not having too much experience in OC.

Following all the advices I found I managed to put my E6400 up to 3.5 GHZ last week. I start windows and can play, surf internet, etc for hours..but today it gave it gave me 3 blue screen crashes:
Memory management
IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Page_fault_in_nonpaged_area

Orhtos and OCCT test OK; Temp iddle about 42-44 C and 55-57C at full. Never reached 60 C.
I have artic cooling Pro 7 on CPU, pasive cooling on SB and a 4 cm fan on top of NB (not reseated) - not sure of temp in NB - does speedfan or OCCT show it? which sensor is it?

BIOS 1201
Vcore 1.4
Vram 1.9 or 2.085
NBcore 1.56
Vcore ofset +100 mV

FBS 1750 Mhz

Memory 800 Mhz (5-5-5-18 2T)
OCZ DDR2 PC2-6400 Vista Performance Gold 4GB Dual Channel
Run memtest for hours and no problem found.

Does anyone has an idea what' s going on with my system?
Any sugestion to improve stabilyty or quality of my OC?

Cheers!


----------



## eminded1

iif u get randum crashes not within the first 5 mins of computing, then u need more vcore, if it crashes within liek a min or to within windows being up its a ram problem, jsut up the vcore and i reocmmend testin with LINX google linx stess test.


----------



## willmarth2

What is my weakest link in my system? In other words, if you were going to upgrade a component, which one would you upgrade?

Board: ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5N-E SLI 1.XX
1.87 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo E6300
3582 Megabytes Installed Memory
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS [Display adapter]


----------



## e-t172

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
What is my weakest link in my system? In other words, if you were going to upgrade a component, which one would you upgrade?

Board: ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5N-E SLI 1.XX
1.87 gigahertz Intel Core 2 Duo E6300
3582 Megabytes Installed Memory
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GTS [Display adapter]

The graphics card.


----------



## SHREDDER383

overclock that cpu also


----------



## Royaltramp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kthulhu*


Hi all! I am new here and not having too much experience in OC.

Following all the advices I found I managed to put my E6400 up to 3.5 GHZ last week. I start windows and can play, surf internet, etc for hours..but today it gave it gave me 3 blue screen crashes:
Memory management
IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Page_fault_in_nonpaged_area

Orhtos and OCCT test OK; Temp iddle about 42-44 C and 55-57C at full. Never reached 60 C.
I have artic cooling Pro 7 on CPU, pasive cooling on SB and a 4 cm fan on top of NB (not reseated) - not sure of temp in NB - does speedfan or OCCT show it? which sensor is it?

BIOS 1201
Vcore 1.4
Vram 1.9 or 2.085
NBcore 1.56
Vcore ofset +100 mV

FBS 1750 Mhz

Memory 800 Mhz (5-5-5-18 2T)
OCZ DDR2 PC2-6400 Vista Performance Gold 4GB Dual Channel
Run memtest for hours and no problem found.

Does anyone has an idea what' s going on with my system?
Any sugestion to improve stabilyty or quality of my OC?

Cheers!










It's a memory related error, but it doesn't necessarily mean your system isn't stable. No system is 100% stable, so it could just be that you got unlucky and happened to have a problem that day, but will never have one again, or you could continue to have them regularly.

I would try raising the memory voltage to the next one up, since the recommended memory voltage for your RAM is 2.1V, and although 2.08V is near enough, that 0.02V can make a difference in some cases. I believe the next one up is 2.17V, that should be safe, but don't go any higher than that unless you know what you're doing.

Another thing you might want to consider is the strain you're putting on the northbridge. With FSB that high you're putting a lot of strain on the northbridge, which in turn puts strain on the RAM, causing you to either need more NB voltage or more RAM voltage. I wouldn't up the NB voltage much though, not without watching how hot it gets, since this board gets particularly hot. Though I presume you know that, as you have put a fan on it.

-Matt


----------



## kthulhu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Royaltramp*


Another thing you might want to consider is the strain you're putting on the northbridge. With FSB that high you're putting a lot of strain on the northbridge, which in turn puts strain on the RAM, causing you to either need more NB voltage or more RAM voltage. I wouldn't up the NB voltage much though, not without watching how hot it gets, since this board gets particularly hot. Though I presume you know that, as you have put a fan on it.


Thanks for all comments - I think the northbridge was the reason. I was having too many random crashes just doing minor things in windows. So I reduced the NB voltage and FBS 1700 (3.4GHZ) and now more crashes again...and runnig pretty cold. I will watch and test my system for few days and then try to increase again FBS a lilltle bit and see what happens.


----------



## SHREDDER383

ok on my p5n-e sli and e6420, ive got the multi at x8, the qfsb at 1500 or 375, my memory unlinked and set at 800mhz, so that gives me a clock of 3.0, which i can run super stable all day with the vcore at auto and the voltage for the northbridge and the memory bumped 1 notch i think, I cant get it passed the 3.0 mark and im starting to get frusterated, even if i bump the vcore to 1.4-1.45 i cant get it to break the 3.0 barrier, my system has all upgraded cooling and ive got tons of case air flow at my temps are really low, any advice or sugestions would be great, thanks guys and girl


----------



## kthulhu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SHREDDER383* 
ok on my p5n-e sli and e6420, ive got the multi at x8, the qfsb at 1500 or 375, my memory unlinked and set at 800mhz, so that gives me a clock of 3.0, which i can run super stable all day with the vcore at auto and the voltage for the northbridge and the memory bumped 1 notch i think, I cant get it passed the 3.0 mark and im starting to get frusterated, even if i bump the vcore to 1.4-1.45 i cant get it to break the 3.0 barrier, my system has all upgraded cooling and ive got tons of case air flow at my temps are really low, any advice or sugestions would be great, thanks guys and girl









Maybe your are reaching your FBS "hole": you are not able to use some FBS speeds but you can jump over and uses higer ones. Try to boot at 3.2 or 3.4 (Vcore 1.4 and NB 1.56 should be enough, then see if you can lower them).

Hope this makes sense.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SHREDDER383*


ok on my p5n-e sli and e6420, ive got the multi at x8, the qfsb at 1500 or 375, my memory unlinked and set at 800mhz, so that gives me a clock of 3.0, which i can run super stable all day with the vcore at auto and the voltage for the northbridge and the memory bumped 1 notch i think, I cant get it passed the 3.0 mark and im starting to get frusterated, even if i bump the vcore to 1.4-1.45 i cant get it to break the 3.0 barrier, my system has all upgraded cooling and ive got tons of case air flow at my temps are really low, any advice or sugestions would be great, thanks guys and girl










Maybe try to up the multi and lower the FSB a bit. This will give you the same clock speed at a lower FSB... worth a shot.


----------



## SHREDDER383

thanks for the tips i will try them both and give you guys and girl an update when i can


----------



## Pipesafa

Hi, i read almost all the pages on this thread and the other thread about OCING this mobo and certainly can't get a decent OC on my MOBO with a Q6600. Try with the pencil MOD, BIOS Changes between recent and oldies and nothing result.

One thing that is really annoy me a lot is the fact that for some reason I setup some values on the bios include the FSB but when the PC restarts the unique value that not change is the FSB it keep the same before i make the changes and the only OCING posibility is with the ASUS OC OPtion but only to 10% and the memory timings sucks so i been thinking on a Mobo change but i want to take a other round before with your help.

Excuse my bad English i read and understading a lot but the writing is more difficult yet. XD


----------



## TheScOuT

Does somebody have a picture of the transistor that needs the pencil treatment







I tried the link on the 3rd post and it won't load the page.

I have been running this motherboard for about 2 years and it's still going strong







The funny part is...I am running a Q9300 which is not even on the supported CPU list from Asus. I actually bought it as a combo package.

Here it is in action!


----------



## e-t172

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheScOuT*


Does somebody have a picture of the transistor that needs the pencil treatment







I tried the link on the 3rd post and it won't load the page.


http://www.overclock.net/attachments...read-p5noe.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1...1848617xs1.jpg
http://forums.vr-zone.com/hardware-v...-e-vdroop.html


----------



## TheScOuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *e-t172*


http://www.overclock.net/attachments...read-p5noe.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1...1848617xs1.jpg
http://forums.vr-zone.com/hardware-v...-e-vdroop.html


Thanks for the help...I am going to try this.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheScOuT*


Thanks for the help...I am going to try this.










How does that chip overclock on the P5N-E SLI ?


----------



## TheScOuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


How does that chip overclock on the P5N-E SLI ?


I have been running it at 2.73GHz for about a year rock solid. I have the multiplier maxed at 7.5 and the Bus speed at 365 = FSB of 1460.

I use "auto" for voltage on the CPU









The RAM gets unstable at anything over 800MHz. I got now 4GB G Skill and it runs great. I run my RAM at 730...linked to the bus speed.

To be honest...I have not even really tried to crank it up at all. I have never even messed with the CPU voltage, NB Voltage or really anything







I did however lap my stock NB heatsink and apply AS5...also have a fan mounted for extra NB cooling. It's not even warm to the touch.

I work a lot and I am in the military so I'm always gone also. I keep it super stable for my wife when I am gone. I really don't need to overclock...it does everything I need it just fine.







Plays games smooth as silk and folds well









Here is a CPUZ shot.


----------



## willmarth2

Is quad really worth it if you don't run a lot of applications at once? I will upgrade my E6300 in the next year and originally wanted a quad. Toms Hardware says it does not really help with games yet. Does a quad boot Vista quicker than C2D?


----------



## kthulhu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pipesafa* 
Hi, i read almost all the pages on this thread and the other thread about OCING this mobo and certainly can't get a decent OC on my MOBO with a Q6600. Try with the pencil MOD, BIOS Changes between recent and oldies and nothing result.

One thing that is really annoy me a lot is the fact that for some reason I setup some values on the bios include the FSB but when the PC restarts the unique value that not change is the FSB it keep the same before i make the changes and the only OCING posibility is with the ASUS OC OPtion but only to 10% and the memory timings sucks so i been thinking on a Mobo change but i want to take a other round before with your help.

Excuse my bad English i read and understading a lot but the writing is more difficult yet. XD

After a windows crash (blue screen







), once I tried to modified the BIOS and only the voltaje were changed: FBS and multipliers were the same...I clear the BIOS by removing the battery of the MB and everything went OK.

Another posibility is that the battery of MB i sgone, so your changes are not stored and you are always on defalt BIOS settings.


----------



## SickStew

Do 45nm Quad core work on P5N-E SLI?


----------



## TheScOuT

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SickStew*


Do 45nm Quad core work on P5N-E SLI?


According to Asus in the CPU support for the P5N-E...no they do not work. I bought mine as a combo deal. I had no idea at the time and only realized it about 6 months later. My Q9300 runs great actually.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Is quad really worth it if you don't run a lot of applications at once? I will upgrade my E6300 in the next year and originally wanted a quad. Toms Hardware says it does not really help with games yet. Does a quad boot Vista quicker than C2D?


I have heard and read a thousand gamers say that games don't benefit from 4 processing cores. I actually wrote an article for an online magazine about this. This is the results I came up with







Try running GTA IV or Empire: Total war with a 2 core processor...those two games run all 4 of my cores at around 75%!

http://www.techzine.com/2009/01/22/w...e-all-4-cores/

TechZine is an online magazine started by members of another forum I am a member of. I am not spamming this by any way, shape or form.


----------



## mavizaman

my idea; dont choise q6600 for this mobo.








if you cant change your mobo,you can buy e7xxx or e8xxx both performance and overclock









Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


Is quad really worth it if you don't run a lot of applications at once? I will upgrade my E6300 in the next year and originally wanted a quad. Toms Hardware says it does not really help with games yet. Does a quad boot Vista quicker than C2D?


----------



## askareem24

i just got this board and the vcore is acting very strange; first, i tried upping the fsb to 1460 ( 3.65ghz ) e7300 voltage set to 1.32 in the bios. as i booted up into windows , i checked up with cpu-z and it states that my vcore is a whopping 1.44v X_X . thats a hugeeeeeeeeeeeeee jump. does any body know how i can fix this? i mean what am i suppose to trust? the bios or cpu-z. ( i d/led the latest version of cpu-z ) too


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *askareem24*


i just got this board and the vcore is acting very strange; first, i tried upping the fsb to 1460 ( 3.65ghz ) e7300 voltage set to 1.32 in the bios. as i booted up into windows , i checked up with cpu-z and it states that my vcore is a whopping 1.44v X_X . thats a hugeeeeeeeeeeeeee jump. does any body know how i can fix this? i mean what am i suppose to trust? the bios or cpu-z. ( i d/led the latest version of cpu-z ) too


Download ASUS probe... it more accurate since its from ASUS themself.









I get 1.48v in CPU-z while I'm actually only using 1.33v


----------



## askareem24

Ah thank you so much. i was very worried!. do you know where i can download the probe tool for win 7. i cant seem to find it! thnx repp


----------



## askareem24

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Download ASUS probe... it more accurate since its from ASUS themself.









I get 1.48v in CPU-z while I'm actually only using 1.33v

ok check this out, in the bios i set my vcore at 1.30000v 3.65ghz e7300 10x multi, i downloaded asus probe and its reading my vcore at 1.42








.. !!!!!!!!!!!! im so sad. how the hell can it have that big of a jump. i mean, if anything the vdroop is supposed to be read at under 1.3000v except its reading at 1.42 which is .12v higher, way higher


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *askareem24*


ok check this out, in the bios i set my vcore at 1.30000v 3.65ghz e7300 10x multi, i downloaded asus probe and its reading my vcore at 1.42







.. !!!!!!!!!!!! im so sad. how the hell can it have that big of a jump. i mean, if anything the vdroop is supposed to be read at under 1.3000v except its reading at 1.42 which is .12v higher, way higher


is the +100mV option enabled in BIOS? If so, this is why your Vcore is a little high. TBH over volting on the p5N-e is EXTREMELY rare, especially as much as you are reporting.


----------



## askareem24

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ravin* 
is the +100mV option enabled in BIOS? If so, this is why your Vcore is a little high. TBH over volting on the p5N-e is EXTREMELY rare, especially as much as you are reporting.

even if i disable that, it still reads 1.40-1.42 .. man if anyone can help out, id appreciate it so much. when i leave my settings at stock, the voltages read at 1.33v which is pretty high for 2.66ghz


----------



## Icekilla

hey there

I just saw someone running a Q9300 with this lovely motherboard...

which BIOS was that guy using? does it even run stable?


----------



## ihasflavor

Just a quick question:

Will I have any problems running Patriot Extreme Performance 4GB (2 x 2GB) 800mhz RAM on my board (P5N-E SLi)? Its 2.2v with 4-4-4-12 timings.

Or should I go with the 2.0v 5-5-5-12 800mhz version?

There is only a $2 difference in price.

See specs below.


----------



## ihasflavor

Damn a repost. Sorry. Firefox is acting up.


----------



## Blizzie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ihasflavor*


Just a quick question:

Will I have any problems running Patriot Extreme Performance 4GB (2 x 2GB) 800mhz RAM on my board (P5N-E SLi)? Its 2.2v with 4-4-4-12 timings.

Or should I go with the 2.0v 5-5-5-12 800mhz version?

There is only a $2 difference in price.

See specs below.


2.2v? That's a tad high.. Do you have links to both sets?


----------



## quakermaas

I was running these at 950MHz at 4.4.4.12 and 2.36v, for about 18 months on this board and didn't give me one problem.

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...l3_edition-eol

I would go with the 4.4.4.12 at 2.2, tighter memory timings is better.


----------



## ihasflavor

Here are the links:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16820220269

and

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220227

Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## VULKAR

Hi to all!!!

I just upgraded to the GTX 260(192sp). For some reason when I open the 'Nvidia Control Panel' and click on 'System Information' in the lower left hand corner it shows my PCI Express bus speed @ 8x. I don't understand because I do not have SLI but only the GTX 260 as one primary card. Any suggestions on what I should do to bump it up to PCI-E 16x??? I'm experiencing some lag in 'Cryostasis'

Also, any suggestions on an easy overclock with my Q6600 like BIOS versions or any overclocking guides that's straightforward because I keep reading that a stock Q6600 will bottleneck the GTX 200 series cards.

THANKS!


----------



## TheScOuT

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Icekilla* 
hey there

I just saw someone running a Q9300 with this lovely motherboard...

which BIOS was that guy using? does it even run stable?

Yes I am running a Q9300 on this motherboard. I am running BIOS 1301...have not tried the new one. I actually bought this as a package deal about 18 months ago. I did not even know the Q9300 was not on the CPU list from Asus until after about 6 months.

Runs super stable...does not over clock very well. Only been able to reach 3.0GHz and that was flaky to say the least. I can run it at 2.85GHz with rare issues. I have it clocked at 2.625GHz. Been running it here since winter with not a single issue.

It kinda upset me that I got sold a combo that "is not supposed to work" by TigerDirect. But it runs fine and does everything I need it to


----------



## mavizaman

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ihasflavor*


Just a quick question:

Will I have any problems running Patriot Extreme Performance 4GB (2 x 2GB) 800mhz RAM on my board (P5N-E SLi)? Its 2.2v with 4-4-4-12 timings.

Or should I go with the 2.0v 5-5-5-12 800mhz version?

There is only a $2 difference in price.

See specs below.


----------



## mavizaman

interesting.
i was not know to work 45nm quad on P5N-E.


----------



## Psycho Maluke

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...Score15158.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...libios1403.jpg

The new bios 1403 is not bad at all, but at 3.6GHz is not stable on games i just overclock at 3.4GHz and i recommend because is running stable on everything.

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...able3Dmark.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...esbios1403.jpg

Games Tested: crysis warhead, prototype, farcry2, grid, gta iv, etc.

i was ussing the version 608 bios but can run only stable on 3.0GHz or 3.1GHz and now with the new 1403 it runs perfectly on 3.4GHz.


----------



## Arcl4yd

Hi folks. Which bios for P5N-E is now the best bios available? Im running now 801 and I think that now its the time to do little flashing.. Should I go to the newest 1403 or more discussed 1301?

Thanks!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arcl4yd*


Hi folks. Which bios for P5N-E is now the best bios available? Im running now 801 and I think that now its the time to do little flashing.. Should I go to the newest 1403 or more discussed 1301?

Thanks!


When I had an E6550 and the P5N-E SLI, I found the best bios for overclocking to be the 0608, but you have to force the flash as you cannot roll back that far normaly.
I was able to get 475fsb stable, cpu was at 3.3 and memory on 1:1 at 950MHz.
I tried most bios up to 1301 and could only get max FSB of 450 and that wasn't even fully stable.

Edit: looked for my old posts on this..here yeah go.
http://www.overclock.net/4888925-post8036.html
http://www.overclock.net/4894477-post8037.html


----------



## Arcl4yd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


When I had an E6550 and the P5N-E SLI, I found the best bios for overclocking to be the 0608, but you have to force the flash as you cannot roll back that far normaly.
I was able to get 475fsb stable, cpu was at 3.3 and memory on 1:1 at 950MHz.
I tried most bios up to 1301 and could only get max FSB of 450 and that wasn't even fully stable.

Edit: looked for my old posts on this..here yeah go.
http://www.overclock.net/4888925-post8036.html
http://www.overclock.net/4894477-post8037.html


I really dont like the whole idea of downgrading, even for more overclock.

I have been so naive (again) and thought that asus has after years!! finally done for this mb a functional bios.

mb from asus? As E.A.Poe said once in Raven: "Nevermore".

Anyway, thanks for response.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Arcl4yd* 
I really dont like the whole idea of downgrading, even for more overclock.

I have been so naive (again) and thought that asus has after years!! finally done for this mb a functional bios.

mb from asus? As E.A.Poe said once in Raven: "Nevermore".

Anyway, thanks for response.

No problem








You could just go with the latest or the 1301( never heard anything bad about the 1301), but I think most of the later bios just add newer cpu and memory support.

You could maybe run a 440fsb with that memory at 1:1, giving you 880MHz memory and 3.08 GHz cpu.


----------



## Icekilla

I'm running version 1403 and I must admit that it runs quite stable.
Haven't tried to overclock further because it seems to be stable atm, but I think you guys could give it a try


----------



## mavizaman

1.6v very high voltage for q6600 i think its dangerous.








many people say to 1.5 max voltage for q6600
whats your vid?
did you apply pencil mod? 
whats your system temp?
how many times did you make stress test(ortos,prime95)?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Psycho Maluke*


http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...Score15158.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...libios1403.jpg

The new bios 1403 is not bad at all, but at 3.6GHz is not stable on games i just overclock at 3.4GHz and i recommend because is running stable on everything.

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...able3Dmark.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...esbios1403.jpg

Games Tested: crysis warhead, prototype, farcry2, grid, gta iv, etc.

i was ussing the version 608 bios but can run only stable on 3.0GHz or 3.1GHz and now with the new 1403 it runs perfectly on 3.4GHz.


----------



## Psycho Maluke

hey mavizaman

i use this settings:
Vcore Voltage: Auto (gives me 1.4)
Memory Voltage: 1.9 
MB Core Voltage: 1.5
Vcore offset voltage:+100

Unlincked: CPU Configuration: Execute Disable Bit: Enabled (Only)
FBS:1522 CPU Multiplier: x9
Mem:850

Yes i use the pencil mod, in that photo it was me that put 1.6v to see if i can run stable, i tried all voltages but run unstable on 3.6ghz.
The thing is at 3.4 or 3.5 in this bios version i can run stable with a voltage 1.44v (3.4ghz 48Âºc) or 1.48v (3.5ghz 50Âºc).


----------



## mavizaman

interesting.
many q6600&p5n-e owners cant o.c., a few guys can 3ghz








me however cant raised to 3ghz or 2.7 not stabil any o.c. 
Whats your vid?


----------



## Rectus_Nex92

Thank you so much for this.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zoner88*


Our boards will only take up to the Q6700 quad processors (or 65nm Quad core processors). They will NOT accept any 45nm Core 2 Quad processors, BUT will accept 45nm Core 2 Duo processors with the necessary BIOS updates needed to recognize them (refer to ASUS's site for our boards and Supported CPUs link).

Now, with that said, in order for our systems to recognize the Q6000 series Core 2 Quad processors, we need BIOS version 0608. I recommend staying with this BIOS at it has been found that this partcular version seems to behave much better in overclocking these quads.

I personally have a Q6700 running at 3.33GHz @ 1333FSB (10 x 333MHz) @ 1.425 Vcore @ LDT x5 (LDT x3 helps stability). My idle temps are a bit high (50/52 somewhere around there) and max temps were 67/65/65/65 after running FSX for about an hour on max 1680 x 1050 with my 8800GT. Framerates were mostly high 20's to low 40's peaking at 60FPS. I'm back at stock speeds due to temps hitting into the low 70's during Orthos and other intesive apps (DVD encoding, etc.). I will be looking into better cooling soon.

But the bottom line is, don't let anyone tell you we can't OC quads on this board (Q6000 series), the P5N-E SLI isn't the BEST to OC quads, but they are plenty capable of getting a decent OC.


I have heard of a few people running 45nm quads on this board with no problems, but these CPU,s are not officially supported.
I will see if I can look up some links.

Edit: here is a few, but I have seen others
http://www.overclock.net/6387327-post8918.html
http://www.overclock.net/6389916-post8922.html
http://www.techzine.com/2009/01/22/w...e-all-4-cores/


----------



## thunder12

any help appreciated http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...600-p5n-e.html

thunder


----------



## Psycho Maluke

mavizaman, try to update to 1403 version and give it a try


----------



## Blizzie

Has anyone tried to run 2 video cards, non SLI?
Do I have to switch the SLI selector card to dual video card?

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/5257...t-250-gts.html


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blizzie*


Has anyone tried to run 2 video cards, non SLI?
Do I have to switch the SLI selector card to dual video card?

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/5257...t-250-gts.html



Yes..for the second slot to work at all the sli selector has to be in sli mode.
It will then split the 16 PCI-e lanes to 8+8, in non sli mode all 16 lanes will go to PCI-e socket 1 and nothing to the second PCI-e socket.


----------



## Hajpoj

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Just popped in a Q9400, OCed to 3.4Ghz on bios 1403.

I've set Vcore to 1.475 in bios, using a zalman9500 cooler, my temps read 38-40 idle.

In windows vcore is reported as 1.6 in CPU-z. But temps still read 38, does that make sense?


----------



## zomgiwin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hajpoj*


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Just popped in a Q9400, OCed to 3.4Ghz on bios 1403.

I've set Vcore to 1.475 in bios, using a zalman9500 cooler, my temps read 38-40 idle.

In windows vcore is reported as 1.6 in CPU-z. But temps still read 38, does that make sense?


only things that report correct cpuv for me are everest and pc probe :/

and i am curious guys, what sort of vdroop does everyone get under load?
i pencil modded and i still get .1v spikes. like, i have 1.38v idle, it will load at 1.36 and just randomly spike to like 1.28

just a bunk board or what?


----------



## quakermaas

http://www.overclock.net/4981112-post8111.html

"Just done the Vdroop pencil mod.

CPUZ: cpu voltage reading
before
1.408 idle 1.344 load
after
1.408 idle 1.376 load

Speedfan cpu voltage reading
before
1.33 idle 1.26 load
after
1.33 idle 1.30 load"


----------



## Psycho Maluke

CPUZ Validation:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=591167

CPUZ: cpu voltage reading
1.440 idle 1.424 load


----------



## Zippit

sorry guys... its official now.

I have a UD3P now... I'll still be using my P5N-e in my server though.


----------



## eminded1

O hello , zippit, long time no talk. U are gorgerous. Btw i updated my p5n-e to 1403


----------



## eminded1

ok, so if i buy pc2-8500 ram wil i be disapointed becuse i cant clock them to rated speeds with my p5n-e or can i, can u put 1066 ram in the p5n-e and have it run at 1066? I know that the maximum for the board is 800 but will this work?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


ok, so if i buy pc2-8500 ram wil i be disapointed becuse i cant clock them to rated speeds with my p5n-e or can i, can u put 1066 ram in the p5n-e and have it run at 1066? I know that the maximum for the board is 800 but will this work?


I think you will not be able to get to1066, I have heard these boards top out at about 1000.


----------



## Hajpoj

FSB won't go over 475, 1900 quad pumped if your lucky. 2000fsb flowing through any portion of the mobo make it scream: *MAAAAADE IN CHINA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!*


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hajpoj*


FSB won't go over 475, 1900 quad pumped if your lucky. 2000fsb flowing through any portion of the mobo make it scream: *MAAAAADE IN CHINA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!*


I got 498FSB....


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hajpoj* 
FSB won't go over 475, 1900 quad pumped if your lucky. 2000fsb flowing through any portion of the mobo make it scream: *MAAAAADE IN CHINA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!*

The Pook hit 515MHz


----------



## thunder12

may be a good idea to have a link to this thread. Shows that it is now possible to hit 2.4ghz on a q6600 (P5N-e).

Thunder


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
may be a good idea to have a link to this thread. Shows that it is now possible to hit 2.4ghz on a q6600 (P5N-e).

Thunder

Isnt 2.4Ghz the stock clock of a Q6600?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Isnt 2.4Ghz the stock clock of a Q6600?

yes, and 3.0GHz+ is a feat on the P5NE


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ravin*


yes, and 3.0GHz+ is a feat on the P5NE


But he was talking about 2.4Ghz


----------



## Psycho Maluke

"Ravin:yes, and 3.0GHz+ is a feat on the P5NE"

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...600-p5n-e.html

No, the new feat now is 3.4GHZ with 1403 bios version.
CPUZ Validation:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=591167

CPUZ: cpu voltage reading
New: 1.424 idle 1.404 load


----------



## Hajpoj

^I can push up to 3.5ghz stable, but with 1.62 Vcore!

It's unbelievable though, my idle load temps are only 45/60 prime95. I don't know if these settings will kill the chip over time b/c I thought heat is the biggest obstacle?

Isn't the point of water-cooling to push the chip to the maximum voltage while keeping temps down? If there really is a "voltage limit" then doesn't that defeat the purpose of water-cooling to maximize performance? Sounds like water-cooling only gives heat & noise reduction but not much "head room" over air-coolers.


----------



## Psycho Maluke

Q6600 2.4/3.4ghz oc (BigWater 770 Watercooling) 25/48 makes the diference Hajpoj







motherboard temp 35Âºc

"^I can push up to 3.5ghz stable, but with 1.62 Vcore!"
Me 2 but only 1.5 vcore.


----------



## Hajpoj

I haven't kept a chip more than a year so far, OCed the HELL out of them all and then dumped each off on craigslist... Maybe Intel will release a 10x multi quad as one last bang for LGA775(at least maybe a Xeon), if not I'll try and find a QX 45nm and aim for 4.0ghz+


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Psycho Maluke*


"Ravin:yes, and 3.0GHz+ is a feat on the P5NE"

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...600-p5n-e.html

No, the new feat now is 3.4GHZ with 1403 bios version.
CPUZ Validation:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=591167

CPUZ: cpu voltage reading
New: 1.424 idle 1.404 load


IDK if that is due to the BIOS or the fact that you have a new revision of the P5NE-SLI. Your board is an A2 revision, mine was an A1. Could be that they beefed up the MOSFETs, as on the A1 revision getting clean voltage and adequate amperage was the problem with overclocking the Q6xx0 chips.

That said, I think it is likely since I could not get more than 1.325V with (hard) Vmod and BIOS set @ 1.5+V


----------



## Psycho Maluke

May be your right Ravin or may be not i donÂ´t know, but since they release the 1403 bios for p5n-e sli some guys not only me can run with the same settings on bios 3.4ghz oc i must ask them if they boards are an A2 revision.


----------



## Hajpoj

Mine is A1 I think, and that makes sense that my chip might not be receiving the volts it's set to.


----------



## rasa123

How can you tell if your board is A1 or A2?


----------



## Ravin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hajpoj*


... Maybe Intel will release a 10x multi quad as one last bang for LGA775...


Q6700

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rasa123*


How can you tell if your board is A1 or A2?


CPUz


----------



## xtascox

I've finally given up on this board with my q6600. I've ordered a EVGA 780i FTW and it'll be here Monday. Don't worry though. I'm throwing my P4 631 back in it on a test bench and pushing this mother as high as possible. I had it up to over 4.2ghz on air with a fair amount of room to spare.


----------



## ltrevo

Actually how can i do the pencil mod?? I follow the guide on 1st page but still getting huge vdrop


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltrevo*


Actually how can i do the pencil mod?? I follow the guide on 1st page but still getting huge vdrop


Apply some more.


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Apply some more.

Best advice ever.


----------



## ltrevo

i have apply all i can the resistor now is black in color but still no work..


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltrevo*


i have apply all i can the resistor now is black in color but still no work..


What kind of pencil are you using?


----------



## xtascox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
i have apply all i can the resistor now is black in color but still no work..

It wouldn't hurt to double check that you are shading the correct resistor and also make sure that you are using a #2 (or HB) pencil.


----------



## ltrevo

im using the 2b pencil


----------



## eminded1

i dont like the vdroop mod. im currently at 1.44-1.47 idle and 1.40 load with orthos ffts, 1.37 load with Linx


----------



## ltrevo

im still getting huge vdrop from 1.5~1.6 to 1.44 min. both are drop till 1.44 only


----------



## sexybastard

the vdroop mod worked wonders for me. max .02 drop now.

it worked the first time. are you guys sure you are shading the right part?


----------



## eminded1

it worked for mee i had no vdroop at all, 1.36 load and idle, andi took my pc to another state and it was unstable and vdrooping, idle volts really dont matter .i stay 30c's even in summer


----------



## africandavid

Hi guys,

I want to try pencil mod and upgrade to new bios, seems promising, I have been waiting for soo long for something to come of this board. I was going to get the Gigabyte p45-ud3-p, for x-fire and better oc'ing, will see how this goes.

I'm not able to look at the pencil mod guide due to web restrictions, can anybody tell me if I would need to remove the board to do the mod or is it only on the top-side of bcb that needs to be coloured???

My case is a little bit of a biach to work with.









Thanks


----------



## sexybastard

well i've moved on from this mobo. probably the best ive ever had. i was actually sad taking it out of my pc for the last time


----------



## ltrevo

i just draw on the resistor but also cant get it work.. any guide for doing it?


----------



## africandavid

Yes there is a guide, go back a couple pages and look at links under users posts, you wills see a link to the guide there.
I still don't have access to vue the guide pics,... can someone tell me if I would need to remove the mobo from my case, or do I need to colour the back of the mobo??
Thanks


----------



## eminded1

lol, "colour the back of the mobo?" no you dont have to remove your motherboard, maybe unplug the cpufan and take out mem stick, the resister is located second one down on the left when looking down side of the CPU-fan power connecter, use pics, get somne with an iphone and use it.


----------



## africandavid

Thanks for the post....
Sounds good, thought I would need to spend hours taking everything out and replacing it all.

Why are you not a fan of the volt mod anyway???..... or is it the bios you don't like??


----------



## ltrevo

i can get it boot at 3.42ghz but cant get it stable.. can any1 help me get it stable?


----------



## aleiro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
i can get it boot at 3.42ghz but cant get it stable.. can any1 help me get it stable?

you will not be able to get anything above 3.0ghz stable with a Q6600 on the p5n-e. That is just a fact of life. I used to have this board, now I have a P5e


----------



## ltrevo

but some member in OCN can get it stable at 3.4


----------



## eminded1

i beg to differ. since the new relese of the 1403 bioes u can get the q6600 up to 3.40- 3.50, on the other hand. i like how there still reelseing update sfor this board.







thanks asus/, And i dont like the vdroop mod becuase its not a perminat mod and it could wear off with a gust of stong winds.


----------



## ltrevo

so you mean pencil mod can erase by wind?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
so you mean pencil mod can erase by wind?

Yes.


----------



## ltrevo

so i think my pencil is erase by wind then cause my hsf is direct blowing onto the mobo..
any way to prevent it being erase?


----------



## aleiro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


i beg to differ. since the new relese of the 1403 bioes u can get the q6600 up to 3.40- 3.50, on the other hand. i like how there still reelseing update sfor this board.







thanks asus/, And i dont like the vdroop mod becuase its not a perminat mod and it could wear off with a gust of stong winds.










? I was lucky with my board (still have it in another comp) my vdroop is very small with a quad and none with my e6400 @ 3.0. The voltage regulation is the problem, this board is just weak. You might be able to get a 45nm chip up there because voltage and wattage requirements are so much lower. And I dont know what kind of wind you mobo is exposed to, but my mobo is in a case. Wind is not going to remove the graphite marking... please silence your self.


----------



## africandavid

Finished pencil mod last night, works great, have no vdroop at all anymore dropped my vcore way down. 
I was able to get cpu stable @ 1.29vcore(cpu-z) @ idle and load, bios vcore set to 1.0752v. This doesn't even seem possible... coretemp shows my cpu vid is 1.325v.

With stable vcore this low and good temps, I should be able to upgrade to bios 1403 and get 3.4ghz no problem.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aleiro*









? I was lucky with my board (still have it in another comp) my vdroop is very small with a quad and none with my e6400 @ 3.0. The voltage regulation is the problem, this board is just weak. You might be able to get a 45nm chip up there because voltage and wattage requirements are so much lower. And I dont know what kind of wind you mobo is exposed to, but my mobo is in a case. Wind is not going to remove the graphite marking... please silence your self.



When I bought this board I had an E6300, I oc'd it to 3.15 ghz







. low temps and vcore, was a really good chip. This board is perfect for it.

I will be trying to get to 3.4ghz for my Q6600, if not I will buy a Gigabyte p45 ud3-p fot the quad and stick my c2d back in this mobo.
Did you do vdroopmod, or did you get lucky with you droop not being so bad??
I just finished vdroopmod, there is absalutely no droop right now.


----------



## aleiro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


When I bought this board I had an E6300, I oc'd it to 3.15 ghz







. low temps and vcore, was a really good chip. This board is perfect for it.

I will be trying to get to 3.4ghz for my Q6600, if not I will buy a Gigabyte p45 ud3-p fot the quad and stick my c2d back in this mobo.
Did you do vdroopmod, or did you get lucky with you droop not being so bad??
I just finished vdroopmod, there is absalutely no droop right now.










No I never did it I just got lucky. I considered it, but I didnt think it would help.


----------



## wumpus

Hey i was just wondering if anyone could tell me why my P5NE-SLI mobo will absolutely not post when i try to overclock my Q6600 quad core to more than 2.93ghz?
it is really annoying me because i know the chip can go much higher. 
any help would be appreciated


----------



## wumpus

also the bios has never been updated
got the board more than 18 months ago


----------



## africandavid

I got new bios updated... officially running at 3.4ghz. Yeah!!!


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wumpus*


also the bios has never been updated
got the board more than 18 months ago


go to asus website, download latest p5n-e bios. extract it to usb stick (make sure the stick is formatted to fat32) and restart the comp. go into bios and enter asus ez flash (make sure the usb stick was plugged in before it restarted). it will automatically find the new bios... select it and bam you got your new bios.

its really that simple.


----------



## wumpus

so all i have to do is update my bios and i can achieve higher overclocks?


----------



## sexybastard

it depends. what bios do you have? if you have one that doesn't support the q6600 then yeah it will help.


----------



## ltrevo

now booting at 3.4ghz with q6600 stressing it now.. hope can get stable this time


----------



## africandavid

Have you update to bios rev. 1403 ??? You need this for OC over 3ghz, you can use bios 0608 for oc to 3ghz. You should read "diddler's guide to 3Ghz on P5N-E" for some background info, it should help.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
now booting at 3.4ghz with q6600 stressing it now.. hope can get stable this time

I will give you those settings you requested... I'm at work right now and can't remember exactly what they are. Will get back to you later.


----------



## ltrevo

ok booting on 3.4ghz now seem stable but not always.. like i can play crysis warhead for hours all no problem but after i reboot then not stable again..


----------



## ltrevo

i found 2 kind of vdrop mod around the net 
1st









2nd









which is true? i hv tried the 1st method but cant get it work..
i wonder if i try the 2nd method will work?
need advice b4 doing all this because i need to rip my rig all out to do the mod


----------



## africandavid

...1 st is pencil mod, what is the second one?? Hard volt mod with resistor?? .... if so you would have to break out the soldering iron and do some pretty fine soldering... unless you are 100% comfortable with this I would not advise you to do so.


----------



## aleiro

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
ok booting on 3.4ghz now seem stable but not always.. like i can play crysis warhead for hours all no problem but after i reboot then not stable again..

did you stress test with Prime95? And how long?


----------



## kthulhu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
i found 2 kind of vdrop mod around the net
which is true? i hv tried the 1st method but cant get it work..
i wonder if i try the 2nd method will work?
need advice b4 doing all this because i need to rip my rig all out to do the mod

I did the pencil mod in the past and it did not work - but recently I tried again, carefully rubbing the pencil over the chip.... and now I have 0 mV of Vdrop









My only problem is that I have to reduce Vcore if not CPU cores get too hot in full stress. Before I was doing 1.36 v for FBS 425 (3.4 Ghz), now I just need 1.30...I supose that this is normal :?


----------



## mdahu

My Bios voltage is set at 1.325, with Vcore offset set at +100mV.
CPU Z shows 1.51
and Speedfan, and Everest show 1.44.

What's up with the discrepancy? What's more accurate.

My set up;
E8400 OC to 3.6 with FSB at 1600
2x2 gig at DDR2 at 800 4-4-4-15


----------



## ltrevo

when i boot at 3.4ghz for the time i can prime95 small ftt without problem for like 4~5 hours then i play crysis for hours + [email protected] also all seem stable.. but after i shutdown & restart the pc it can boot in like normal but now is not stable again


----------



## kthulhu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mdahu*


My Bios voltage is set at 1.325, with Vcore offset set at +100mV.
CPU Z shows 1.51
and Speedfan, and Everest show 1.44.

What's up with the discrepancy? What's more accurate.

My set up;
E8400 OC to 3.6 with FSB at 1600
2x2 gig at DDR2 at 800 4-4-4-15


I think that for this MB Sppedfan and Everest are most accurate - Bios 1.3+0.1 (vcore offset)=1.4


----------



## ltrevo

i think i'll send my mobo to RMA.. anything to do before i send it?


----------



## aleiro

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltrevo*


i think i'll send my mobo to RMA.. anything to do before i send it?


Are you sending it in because it wont OC the quad?


----------



## razen

Hi. I've recently bought an ati eah 4890 for the p5n-e sli. With the sli selector turned to dual video card mode the graphics card works fine. The problem is that when I turn the sli selector to single video card mode, the screen won't show any image at all. However, when I connect my old Geforce 7600 GS to the same pci-e slot it works fine on single video card mode. What can I do to make the eah 4890 work on pci-e at 16x?


----------



## ltrevo

Nope since the board is getting old so i wish to RMA for the last time while i can.. The ram slot & pci slot also got problem..
so.. any advice for me?
ps: any thought what mobo will they will repair it or they just simply swap with another model?? Hoping to get better board here ^^..


----------



## ltrevo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *aleiro* 
Are you sending it in because it wont OC the quad?

i can oc to 3.4ghz stable with prime95 for hours now.. but when i on my gpu [email protected] it just frezz then blew my crappy psu..
how many watt i need here?


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ltrevo*


i can oc to 3.4ghz stable with prime95 for hours now.. but when i on my gpu [email protected] it just frezz then blew my crappy psu..
how many watt i need here?


Have you had any further luck yet????


----------



## ltrevo

My mobo on the way back to asus ^^ RMA-ing it.. hope can get better board..


----------



## Ealae

Hey guys, I tried the eSATA port on the back of this motherboard, and my external is not recognized. I looked in the BIOS, but couldn't find anything on enabling/disabling the eSATA port. Doesn't really mention anything in the manual either. Have any of you guys tried it?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



I spoke to ASUS tech support and the message was there aren't any BIOS
settings to tweak and if the external drive is working thru the USB PORT
(AND IT IS!), then the
esata port is defective and get an RMA and new board.


(http://www.howtofixcomputers.com/for...ata-60910.html)

Possibly faulty port... try your external through USB?

On a separate note, does anyone know if it is possible to run a video card in the second PCI-E slot, without one in the first slot? I'd like to run my 8800GTX in the second slot, for cooling purposes...


----------



## africandavid

Hey, deltaepsylon
Why do you need a new mobo? ???


----------



## deltaepsylon

Well, I have an extreme quad, and pretty good RAM, both of which I've seen clocked pretty highly. On the other hand, this board doesn't do so well with my HW, has problems running on stock, let alone overclocking. Kinda a waste of an extreme processor if its not getting overclocked, eh?

edit: by "new" I meant, like, a different mobo (not just another p5ne-sli)

edit2: if anyone wants to donate one...


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thunder12* 
do you guys reckon the latest bios will be any good for quad cores or will i still be restricted to 2.9ghz haha?









I'm at 3.4ghz, rock solid with bios rev.1403


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *itsboosting* 
hey guys,

i've overclocked my system to 3.0ghz and i can post. However, i've been getting random reboots during usage and occt stress testing.









I have vore set to 1.32 +.100 mv
Ram timing is manually entered at 5-5-5-15 2t
fsb is 1333, multiplier is at 9
ram is at 1:1 divider @ 667mhz

everything else is set to auto i.e. NB/SB

One thing to mention, on CPUZ my VID is constantly at 1.225. Is that right? No matter what voltage i set in the bios for my vcore, CPUZ constantly shows 1.225.

Hi, All you have to do is manually set your vcore voltage in bios. change you bios vcore to 1.22v and you will be fine.


----------



## africandavid

What mobo are you looking to buy???... ga-p45-ud3p.. Good board... I'm considering getting it for Crossfire.


----------



## jbobb

Quick question on RAM.....

I thought I saw somewhere that this board can have minor problems using 4 sticks of RAM. I have been running 4 sticks for a while and have not had problems. But, if I was looking to upgrade would it be better to get 2x2Gb instead of getting some 4x1 CAS4 sticks that can OC well and running 2 sticks instead of 4?


----------



## africandavid

If you havn't had stability problems, then I wouldn't worry about it if I were you, just make sure that the ram you plan on getting is compatible with this board.


----------



## jbobb

One other RAM question. Would it be a problem to run DDR2 1066 RAM on this board and just run it at 800? Reason I ask is that most people selling their 2x2GB kits are selling 1066 for good prices.

Also, if it is ok to run 1066 RAM and run it at 800, do you think it is possible to run the RAM at lower timings beings they would be downclocked?

Thanks for the input.


----------



## deltaepsylon

It should be fine to run your ram at 800MHz, and you probably will be able to tighten the timings up a bit (cant say for sure 'cause I dunno much about timings)


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Anyone know if it is possible to run a video card in the second PCI-E slot, without one in the first slot? I'd like to run my 8800GTX in the second slot, for cooling purposes...

Anyone? Helloooo?


----------



## UkGouki

on the 650 and 750 chipset you need the top slot ocupied as the second slot is only for use with sli or secondary gpu for folding etc...

i think there is only 2x 750i mobos that allow the system to boot in either slot the P5n-D and the EVGA 750i ftw..

i think 680i chipset mobos allow to boot in either slot too but i know this board doesnt


----------



## deltaepsylon

Not even with the SLI selector flipped to 'dual'? Damn.
Thanks, though


----------



## Kopi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Anyone? Helloooo?











Quote:



Originally Posted by *UkGouki*


on the 650 and 750 chipset you need the top slot ocupied as the second slot is only for use with sli or secondary gpu for folding etc...

i think there is only 2x 750i mobos that allow the system to boot in either slot the P5n-D and the EVGA 750i ftw..

i think 680i chipset mobos allow to boot in either slot too but i know this board doesnt










Erm, you sure? I coulda swore I had my GPU running in the second slot before. Maybe I'm confusing my boards, it has been a while.


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kopi* 
Erm, you sure? I coulda swore I had my GPU running in the second slot before. Maybe I'm confusing my boards, it has been a while.

i tried it both ways on my p5n-e 650i board with card selected to single card mode wouldnt post on duel card mode i got it to post but it wouldnt load windows as it couldnt find the main card.

all i could get with it was the bios screen and then the card was downclocked and running at 8xpcie not 16 only way i could get it to work was in the top slot









my p5n-d 750i on the other hand works on both no issues probably due to it not having and sli selector card on the board and the fact it runs at x16 pci-2 in both lanes


----------



## killer byte

Hi, I've overclocked my processor on this board from 2Ghz to 2.8Ghz, and this has run fine and stable for a few months now.
but recently, when I turn on the computer, it gets to the windows logon screen and the screen is all fuzzy and the picture is all messed up, if I move the mouse then the picture changes a bit but you can't make out the mouse or the password box to click on. but if I restart the computer then it's ok.
this happens about every other time I turn the computer on.

We all know that the SB of this mobo is naked, and it gets so hot that I can't keep my finger on it for more than a few seconds. And I'm wondering if my problem has arose because the SB has slightly burnt out?

I have flashed the BIOS so all my overclock has gone and I am on the default speed for the processor and FSB and everything, but the problem still happens.

I plan to get a heatsink on the SB asap but is the damage already done? or is it even my SB that's the problem?


----------



## ltrevo

my lovely board is back today.. tried the pencil mod.. it work!!!


----------



## kthulhu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killer byte* 
I plan to get a heatsink on the SB asap but is the damage already done? or is it even my SB that's the problem?

Haven't heard about porblem with SB? What most people found is that NB runs too hot and NB stock cooling system needs to be change for great oc...but in your case 2.0 to 2.8Ghz should be OK.


----------



## wumpus

yeah so if i have bios 0607 then its crazy i got 2.9 GHz?


----------



## killer byte

The SB gets too hot to touch, surely that's not good?

but if the problem isn't my SB then what could it be?


----------



## sexybastard

your graphics card could be on the way out. run furmark and see if that causes any problems.


----------



## killer byte

I have installed furmark, and ran the stability test, but how can I tell if the graphics card is stable or not whilst using this test?


----------



## sexybastard

you get artifacting or other graphical glitches while running it.


----------



## boggle

Hello all, mebbe someone can help me with this oddity.

I've been running BIOS 1101 clocked at 3 gHz for a while now. I recently unplugged my compy to reseat everything, and when I booted back up it'd gone back to setup defaults (odd, I guess the battery needs to be replaced). However, after going back to all my voltage/FSB overclocks, it wouldn't POST.

For some reason, now it will only let me OC to 1400 FSB (350), no matter what voltages I use. Does this sound familiar to anyone else?

Edit: I recently updated to 1403, and I'm running a E6300 Conroe.

Edit 2: Also, anyone hear of the temp. sensors malfunctioning on this board?


----------



## ltrevo

I wanna ask some question here.. Mayb sound stupid but i need the answer..
is a crappy psu can cause oc not stable??

Last time when i oc my quad to 3.4ghz everything seem find while stressing the cpu.. but when i start to stress both the cpu & gpu.. my screen just show no signal.. then i try again and finally i blow my crappy psu..

anyone can recommend me a avg. psu which i can get it within my country w/o online shopping


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ltrevo* 
I wanna ask some question here.. Mayb sound stupid but i need the answer..
is a crappy psu can cause oc not stable??

Last time when i oc my quad to 3.4ghz everything seem find while stressing the cpu.. but when i start to stress both the cpu & gpu.. my screen just show no signal.. then i try again and finally i blow my crappy psu..

anyone can recommend me a avg. psu which i can get it within my country w/o online shopping


If it cant handle what you got in your rig then yeah it can overheat it and pop. A good PSU is key for a nice system. They have PSU calculators to help you determine what you need for your build.


----------



## ltrevo

i have no idea when choosing psu.. The psu available in my area is limited eg. CM, gigabyte and some brand that i donoe.. some of them are overprice which i wont happy if the psu is the most expensive part in m rig..


----------



## battlezone

Hello!

yesterday i started oc'ing my cpu, my e6750 is now running 3.3 ghz on 1.425V but isnt it a bit high??
With orthos my cpu temp rises to about 70 degrees with a zalman 7000b running full speed, but im getting my zalman 8700 tomorrow, i'm curious about how it will perform


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:


Originally Posted by *battlezone* 
Hello!

yesterday i started oc'ing my cpu, my e6750 is now running 3.3 ghz on 1.425V but isnt it a bit high??
With orthos my cpu temp rises to about 70 degrees with a zalman 7000b running full speed, but im getting my zalman 8700 tomorrow, i'm curious about how it will perform









what is the ambient temp in your house? You can only do so much if its so many degrees inside your home ya know. I run sideless on mine with a TT120 and hardly see 45c. Try dropping your voltage and see if you boot and if you do see if your stable.


----------



## battlezone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ghostkilla*


what is the ambient temp in your house? You can only do so much if its so many degrees inside your home ya know. I run sideless on mine with a TT120 and hardly see 45c. Try dropping your voltage and see if you boot and if you do see if your stable.


Ambient is around 20-23c, will try lowering voltage

But i have another question, memory clock cant get past 1000mhz, so next best thing is lowering latency's?


----------



## Wenus23

I can't seem to get past 2.7 with my q6600. 4 x 1gb kingston pc6400.

Vcore 1.42
Mem volt 2.1
NB volt 1.39

Memory timings at 4-4-4-12 2t

bios is at 1403 (updated). psu is 800w BFG.

fsb/ram @ 5/6 (300 fsb, 720 ram).

freezer pro xtreme HSF

my voltages are already kinda high....i dont know about pounding more voltage into my cpu...any other suggestions? 3 ghz is a good goal.


----------



## ltrevo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wenus23* 
I can't seem to get past 2.7 with my q6600. 4 x 1gb kingston pc6400.

Vcore 1.42
Mem volt 2.1
NB volt 1.39

Memory timings at 4-4-4-12 2t

bios is at 1403 (updated). psu is 800w BFG.

fsb/ram @ 5/6 (300 fsb, 720 ram).

freezer pro xtreme HSF

my voltages are already kinda high....i dont know about pounding more voltage into my cpu...any other suggestions? 3 ghz is a good goal.

you may try the pencil mod & set fsb/ram unlink @ 1333 / 667
vcore: 1.318
ram: auto
NB: 1.3 or 1.5
+100mv: no

ram timing 4-4-4-12-1t or 2t
i use this setting get it 3.0ghz stable..

or u can try my another setting
fsb/ram unlink @ 1522 / 800 or 850 or 761
vcore 1.4+
NB:1.3 or 1.5 if not stable
ram timing auto

i cant use this setting because i think my crappy psu is the main problem..


----------



## africandavid

.....or you can go to 3.4ghz with 1522 [email protected] RAM unlinked with manual setting at 800mhz @ 2.1v. RAM timings 4-4-4-12 1T.


----------



## deltaepsylon

btw africandavid, I'm getting the UD3P that you suggested


----------



## battlezone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TriBeCa*


Someone just pointed this out, thought it might be useful to have. Pook posted a pic somewhere in the other thread of where the mosfets are on the board. Thought it might come in handy!


I've found some chipset cooling that's really cheap








http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15361


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *battlezone*


Ambient is around 20-23c, will try lowering voltage

But i have another question, memory clock cant get past 1000mhz, so next best thing is lowering latency's?



you wanna make your timings loose if your trying to find your max oc. Once you find a happy stable place, then try tightening up your timings and lowering your voltage.


----------



## africandavid

Nice man.... let me know what happens..


----------



## Praeses

Hello

Does anybody have some advice on OC'ing my QX6850 on this board? Is the vdroop pencil mod recommended?

I understand the 4 phase power limits the OC'ing capabilities of this board. Does that include OC'ing by increasing the multiplier or only by increasing the FSB?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Oh god, good luck with that. I couldn't even get it stable by bumping up the multiplier... I was having stability problems at _stock_ due to the 4phase power not doing a good job at cleaning the power if that makes any sense (and it wasn't a faulty, I went through 4 of those, 2 graphics cards, 2 harddrives, 2 CPU's, etc etc)

Doesn't help that you have 4 sticks of ram, which this board seems to not like much (correct me if I'm wrong)


----------



## Ghostkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Oh god, good luck with that. I couldn't even get it stable by bumping up the multiplier...

Doesn't help that you have 4 sticks of ram, which this board seems to not like much (correct me if I'm wrong)



I ran my old rig with a E6400 oced to 3.4ghz stable with 4 1gig sticks of corsair.


----------



## mtbmike777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Oh god, good luck with that. I couldn't even get it stable by bumping up the multiplier...

Doesn't help that you have 4 sticks of ram, which this board seems to not like much (correct me if I'm wrong)


i beg to differ with you there im afraid, my sig will tell you all you need to know really, 4x1gb and pencil mod 3.8 oc from 3.0 is a reasonably good oc on air (3.9 minutely unstable and 4.0 with heat issues so its qualiy overclockable ram is important in being able to take the fsb on this mobo higher as ive found that oc my ram to get 1.1 divider kept it stable


----------



## mtbmike777

duplicate post


----------



## deltaepsylon

Okay, maybe 4x1 isn't as bad a deal for this board as I thought, learn something new every day









Although I'd like to point out that both of those are dual cores and not quads, but I honestly don't know if that'd affect the results at all.


----------



## mudd

Does this board have problems with 1066 FSB? i have a set of 2 x 2gb reapers with timings 5-5-5-15 @ 2.2v rated at 1066 FSB, but when i manually enter the settings, computer isn't stable.

running @ 3.6 GHz stable for 12+ hours with my FSB @ 800 5-5-5-15 2.2v


----------



## mtbmike777

if your refering to your rams fsb i dont think it will go that high 800 is its highest, so underclock your ram providing its stepping ram for lower frequencies with an unlinked bios setting and manually put in your ram mhz at 800-850 900 max se if that helps you could get them timings alittle tighter to 4,4,4,12,2t providing your ram allows


----------



## mudd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mtbmike777*


then try going past it that be your mobo's hole try 1166 or 1200 with maybe 1 notc up on the vcore voltage


sry let me clarify. my FSB is set at 1512 which makes my proc = 3400 MHz

my problem is that when i try to overclock the memory itself (actually set it to stock speeds), it just crashes.


----------



## Praeses

Yes, this board hates 4x1GB pretty much. I set the timings to AUTO (because that's the only thing that's stable) so it set the timings to 5-5-5-31-23 2T.
The mushkins I've run at 4-4-4-12 @ 850MHz completely stable, now they're going to waste by icky timings.

My system at least seems stable at stock 3GHz currently. I want to up it to 3.3GHz but I don't know if this mobo can handle that. I don't want to fry anything...already lost a gfx card this year, don't wanna blow anything else!
If I up the multiplier on my quad, do I only need to increase vcore?

Also, does anybody have a link to a guide to pencil-modding this board?

PS: Zalman 9900 is around 25C+ cooler at load temps than a stock E6550's cooler


----------



## deltaepsylon

Here ya go
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&postcount=53


----------



## Praeses

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Here ya go
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...2&postcount=53


Cool thanks a bunch!

How high have you been able to run your QX6850 stable? Any advice?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Sadly, I've only ever gotten it to run at stock (and even then, the board was really icky about running RAM at 800 and CPU at stock). So even with multiplier bumping, I haven't gotten it stable....

Sorry, no advice.

However... can you give _me_ any advice?


----------



## Praeses

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon*


Sadly, I've only ever gotten it to run at stock (and even then, the board was really icky about running RAM at 800 and CPU at stock). So even with multiplier bumping, I haven't gotten it stable....

Sorry, no advice.

However... can you give _me_ any advice?










Set the RAM timings to auto and bump them up to 1.92v. Mine is completely stable at stock speeds and I'm using 4x1GB sticks which can be quite a pain. Also, try putting the sticks in the black slots. Back when I had 2x1GB, it was more stable in those. I was able to run 5-5-5-12 800MHz mushkins at 4-4-4-12 @ 850MHz 100% stable in the black slots









I'm gonna up the multiplier and vcore now a bit and see what happens







Hopefully I can get it stable at 3.3GHz at least...else I'll have to buy a new board early next year. Would feel like such a waste since I'll be upgrading to Core i7 or i9 late next year.

Now lets see if I can accomplish something!

Edit: Seems to be running stable at 3.3GHz (10x333) at 1.45Vcore in the bios. This Vdroop is horrid. Experiencing like...0.14v droop between idle and load according to Speedfan. It was 0.08V when I was running at stock. 
Can I use a Pacer for pencil modding? ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_pencil )

Edit2: Crashed







Really considering the vdroop mod...


----------



## deltaepsylon

RAM timings have seen every value you could think of, and are currently on 'Auto'

I've put the RAM at 1.92v, and higher, in an effort to get it to stabilize, but no go









Oh, and I've tried every combination of slots with 2 RAM sticks.

Wouldn't even run 1 stick stable @ 800. No idea why.

Thanks for trying to help though. Might give it a shot when I get home just for the hell of it.

Also, I think a mechanical pencil is fine to use for a Vdroop mod, although I would just use one of those yellow #2HB pencil.


----------



## Praeses

Hmm, it's weird that you're having such trouble with EM2's when mine were amazing on their own. Maybe try BIOS 1301?


----------



## deltaepsylon

I believe I'm using that right now, even though my rigspecs say 1101. I'll check when I get home, perhaps flash the Bios up to 1301.


----------



## Praeses

Hopefully it'll help!









OMW my pencil mod is working great! The cheapo meter says it's on 110kOhm now and my vCore is much more stable (less spikes and dips) and it's only drooping 0.07V now!!
It was my first pencil mod








Guess I could try it again tomorrow or so when I'm bored...I want it 0.01V!


----------



## deltaepsylon

lol glad to hear it.

I'm still not home though, so nothing yet about running my RAM at its correct speed.


----------



## africandavid

Bios 1301 is a lot more stable, you will definately have better luck. I have to say though, I'm not having luck having my RAM running at stock speed, even with this bios.

My ram:fsb is set to auto with ram running at 761mhz, cpuz reads fsb/ram ratio at 1:1. 
I don't remember if my ram is in red or black slots though. (BLACK IS BETTER)


----------



## deltaepsylon

They're currently in the black slots. I'll try flashing the bios, etc, when my parents get home. For now, TF2


----------



## willmarth2

I am getting my q9550 from Newegg. I have heard putting the fan on one of these is a booger. Anybody overclocked one, lapped one?


----------



## Praeses

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willmarth2*


I am getting my q9550 from Newegg. I have heard putting the fan on one of these is a booger. Anybody overclocked one, lapped one?


P5N-E Does not support Q8xxx nor Q9xxx


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Praeses* 
P5N-E Does not support Q8xxx nor Q9xxx

Per Asus website "LGA775 Socket IntelÂ® Quad-Core/CoreTM Extreme/Pentium D /Pentium 4/Celeron CPU processors
Compatible with IntelÂ® 06/05A/05B processors
IntelÂ® EIST/EM64T/Hyper-Threading Technology/C1E/ TM1/TM2
Support IntelÂ® next generation 45nm Multi-core CPU
* Please update the latest BIOS to support Intel 45nm CPU"


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
Per Asus website "LGA775 Socket IntelÂ® Quad-Core/CoreTM Extreme/Pentium D /Pentium 4/Celeron CPU processors
Compatible with IntelÂ® 06/05A/05B processors
IntelÂ® EIST/EM64T/Hyper-Threading Technology/C1E/ TM1/TM2
Support IntelÂ® next generation 45nm Multi-core CPU
* Please update the latest BIOS to support Intel 45nm CPU"

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI


----------



## Riks

i had a P5n32-e Sli Plus, it died on me Â¬.Â¬ then came back to life whe my new mobo arrived.. then died again, i actually rebuilt it and was about to send it back the new mobo.. damn asus


----------



## mtbmike777

would like to know what temperature does your P5Ne SLI mobo run at mine starts out at about 40'c then will sit around 47'c when im browsing and pottering around on it, usually will have folding going, will have gpu fans running at 80%-90% for [email protected], i have an active nth B fan so that never really gets above 40'c, but when taxing it a bit gaming or editing something it will get up to about 55'c and i have very good air flow in my case, case temps never get above 30'c whilst stressed, be interesting to see if you all have the same sort of operational temps
mike


----------



## africandavid

Those temps are fine, you will know if it is a problem when the board starts locking up.
Are you having random crashes, or crashes under load ??


----------



## mtbmike777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Those temps are fine, you will know if it is a problem when the board starts locking up.
Are you having random crashes, or crashes under load ??


yeah occassionally, i have my vcore at 1.39 i can pass 20-30 intel burn test with no more than 2 secs difference, but im moving on from this mobo pretty soon so its not a long term issue, ive had enough of it and its quirky ways, and the fact it wont let me take this e8400 to 4.0ghz or over pisses the hell out of me tbh, as i know its capable of alot more


----------



## africandavid

Quirky to say the least, even with bios 1403 you're having trouble? I had my Q6600 stuck at 3 Ghz till this bios came out, did pencil mod and now I'm quite comfortably running at 3.4ghz, this likely the most I'll get out of this CPU on air, on this mobo and most others.

I was considering getting the Gigabyte ud3-p, it's good for x-fire only tho, doesn't really apply to you unless you considering building a x-fire rig.
What board are you considering ???


----------



## africandavid

Have you had any experience with trying to run OS-X leapard on you system??
I reasently started researching this and am anxious to give it a try.


----------



## mtbmike777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Quirky to say the least, even with bios 1403 you're having trouble? I had my Q6600 stuck at 3 Ghz till this bios came out, did pencil mod and now I'm quite comfortably running at 3.4ghz, this likely the most I'll get out of this CPU on air, on this mobo and most others.

I was considering getting the Gigabyte ud3-p, it's good for x-fire only tho, doesn't really apply to you unless you considering building a x-fire rig.
What board are you considering ???


same im going for a gigabyte EA-x58 Extreme with a core I7 920 and WC cant wait tbh few more weeks

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...OL._SS400_.jpg

<just for pic reference, im lucky enough to have a pal who owns a pc repair mod shop, so i will be getting if for a mere Â£120+vat and the chip for Â£165+vat


----------



## africandavid

That sounds like a good deal, I'm definately not going to do an upgrade like that any time soon, this set-up with a few tweaks will do for now. , working on cloning my drive and setting up raid0 withour having to reinstall vista. will install osx too.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/c...el=P5N-E%20SLI


Thanks for your help. I have canceled my order. Which cpu would you recommend for $219 or under if I may ask? I figure either the C2D E8500 or the Core 2 Quad Q6700. Too bad the mb will not support higher quads.


----------



## willmarth2

I was looking in the CPU forums on Q6700 and they said it was hard to OC quads on this mb.


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *willmarth2* 
I was looking in the CPU forums on Q6700 and they said it was hard to OC quads on this mb.

Very. Rather get a proper dual-core. Took me very long to get my quad CPU stable on this mobo. Did a pencil mod, flashed bios etc


----------



## africandavid

Why not get Q6600, for cheap, now gets good oc results. with bios 1403. fairly ease oc compared to the days we used to struggle to get 3ghz.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *africandavid* 
Why not get Q6600, for cheap, now gets good oc results. with bios 1403. fairly ease oc compared to the days we used to struggle to get 3ghz.

If I could get a quad up to your posted OC it would be great. I have a Arctic Pro cooler.

Also I see extreme cpu's are supported. Has anyone OC one of them with this board?


----------



## africandavid

IT's really easy to get my specs to work for Q6600, I can give you details. I't shouldn't bee too difficult considering the vid on my chip was pretty high. Arctic pro will be fine, you will have to update bios to v 1403 tho, shouldn't be a problem.

As far as C2X cpu's is concerned I would not suggest you get one for this board due to 4 phase power setup. extreme chip need lots of stable volts to oc properly.


----------



## africandavid

Can't wait for HD4890 Cyclone SOC to come out.... 1ghz factory core clock. Anybody know when the release date for this card is??


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


IT's really easy to get my specs to work for Q6600, I can give you details. I't shouldn't bee too difficult considering the vid on my chip was pretty high. Arctic pro will be fine, you will have to update bios to v 1403 tho, shouldn't be a problem.

As far as C2X cpu's is concerned I would not suggest you get one for this board due to 4 phase power setup. extreme chip need lots of stable volts to oc properly.


Newegg just posted the Q6600 for $199. I can get the Q6700 for $174. Is the Q6600 easier to OC?


----------



## Cookie_Monster

hey guys
I have an asus P5N-E SLI and have started overclocking my e6600 on it.

Though just reading on here they suggest you get an aftermarket NB heatsink or resit it with AS5. Just after this, while halfway through overclocking i checking my NB (1.56v) an it was on fire, not literally, just really really hot!

Can someone tell me how to take the nb off so i can apply some AS5 please?


----------



## africandavid

I"m sure the Q6600 will oc better, not 100 % sure though. check some forums for max oc on p5n-e. Q6600 doe oc really well, mine has more room to go, I'm just trying to prolong cpu life.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cookie_Monster*


hey guys
I have an asus P5N-E SLI and have started overclocking my e6600 on it.

Though just reading on here they suggest you get an aftermarket NB heatsink or resit it with AS5. Just after this, while halfway through overclocking i checking my NB (1.56v) an it was on fire, not literally, just really really hot!

Can someone tell me how to take the nb off so i can apply some AS5 please?


What bios are you using ?? I'm not sure about NB heatsink, my CPU fan blows over the NB heatsinc. Does a great cooling job. Make sure you are running bios v 1403. This is most stable bios yet, pensil mod would be a good idea as well, it helps the horrible vdroop on this board.


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


I"m sure the Q6600 will oc better, not 100 % sure though. check some forums for max oc on p5n-e. Q6600 doe oc really well, mine has more room to go, I'm just trying to prolong cpu life.


I left today from Illinois. Hopefully I can get it by the weekend. Thanks for your input. I will update my bios. It was your posts that swayed me toward a quad CPU.


----------



## africandavid

Good luck.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Praeses*


Set the RAM timings to auto and bump them up to 1.92v. Mine is completely stable at stock speeds and I'm using 4x1GB sticks which can be quite a pain. Also, try putting the sticks in the black slots. Back when I had 2x1GB, it was more stable in those. I was able to run 5-5-5-12 800MHz mushkins at 4-4-4-12 @ 850MHz 100% stable in the black slots









I'm gonna up the multiplier and vcore now a bit and see what happens







Hopefully I can get it stable at 3.3GHz at least...else I'll have to buy a new board early next year. Would feel like such a waste since I'll be upgrading to Core i7 or i9 late next year.

Now lets see if I can accomplish something!

Edit: Seems to be running stable at 3.3GHz (10x333) at 1.45Vcore in the bios. This Vdroop is horrid. Experiencing like...0.14v droop between idle and load according to Speedfan. It was 0.08V when I was running at stock. 
Can I use a Pacer for pencil modding? ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_pencil )

Edit2: Crashed







Really considering the vdroop mod...


So I tried 5-5-5-12 again, with 1.92V. It got stuck at POST (Just hangs after displaying the Main Processor info). It'll boot at 800MHz 1.92V with only one stick in, though. Any ideas?

edit: and yes, they were in the black slots. The one stick right now is also in a black slot.

edit2: tried running 2x2gb in black slots, 5-5-5-18 (manufacturer rating), at 1.92v with northbridge at 1.208. Got stuck on the post screen, I couldn't get it unstuck (even when I did the jumper CMOS reset). Finally got it unstuck by putting the two DIMMs in slots 0 and 1, but now I'm scared to try anything that I come up with mysel


----------



## iamspooky

Hello all, new member here.

I have had the P5NE 650 SLI for some time.

My primary PCI-Express Card is a GTX 260 896Meg

I just purchased a third widescreen monitor and want to have a second (crappy) video card for the third monitor. I purchased an *Invidia 9500 GT 512* for that purpose.

I slot it in the second (black) PCI Express slot. Turned on the computer, it booted fine.

However the (new) card is not detected in the device manager nor is it listed under display settings. The card's fan is active and appears to have a good connection.

Will it not show up until I install drivers? Is there some critical step I've missed to getting this second card operational?

Thanks.


----------



## deltaepsylon

Did you make sure to flip the red SLI selector on the motherboard? It's between the blue and black PCI-e slots.


----------



## iamspooky

Are you talking about the DUAL and Single card thing? I popped it out, reversed it, and popped it back in.

Should I try and install the drivers anyway?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Yeah, that's what I was referring to.

The drivers should be the same, seeing as they're both nVidia cards and everything since a long time ago use the same drivers...

I'm not sure. Perhaps some else here can answer...?


----------



## africandavid

I don't beleive you can run a third monitor period, i don't think window supports it. I've never heard of this anyway.


----------



## deltaepsylon

lolwut, you can definitely run 3 monitors on windows. The only limit AFAIk is the number of video outputs you have... which is why a third video card is usually needed (most video cards only have 2 outputs = 2 screens)


----------



## willmarth2

It wasn't easy. The push pins on my Arctic Pro 7 cooler broke. I was able to get two on diagonally. Core temps are sub 50 so I am ok. I will download latest bios and get back here for OC tips. I enjoy playing games and other things while I am doing a virus scan in the background. Wasn't able to do that with my E6300.


----------



## willmarth2

Is there a cpu monitor utility freeware that can show usage of all four cores?


----------



## deltaepsylon

Task Manager does the job. Ctrl-Shift-Escape, and go to the Performance tab.

If you want something else, I believe CoreTemp gives you the percent load per core (in addition to each core's temperature)


----------



## willmarth2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *deltaepsylon* 
Task Manager does the job. Ctrl-Shift-Escape, and go to the Performance tab.

If you want something else, I believe CoreTemp gives you the percent load per core (in addition to each core's temperature)

Thanks. It works perfectly.


----------



## battlezone

hi,

i got my q9550 today and would like to announce that it got detected by the bios right away and all settings are applied correctly







i bet oc'ing will be a no-go but stock is definitly better than those 1st gen c2d's
so anyone who has doubts wether or not a q9550 would work on a p5n-e, mine did


----------



## deltaepsylon

It's not officially supported by ASUS, but that doesn't mean that it wont work.


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *battlezone* 
hi,

i got my q9550 today and would like to announce that it got detected by the bios right away and all settings are applied correctly







i bet oc'ing will be a no-go but stock is definitly better than those 1st gen c2d's
so anyone who has doubts wether or not a q9550 would work on a p5n-e, mine did









Have you tried to oc yet??? Is it stable at stock?, what is your bios vcore set at?


----------



## battlezone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Have you tried to oc yet??? Is it stable at stock?, what is your bios vcore set at?


I dont really know if it's very stable or not, just got it yesterday








anyway, after a cold boot, it hanged twice already, probably after about 10 minutes.. but after a quick reboot i could use it for about 4 hours (of which about an hour playing gta 4)...
I also tried to oc it a little a few moments ago; got it booting at 3.0 ghz at 1.25 V but it freezed at loading windows. I think that this cpu isn't fully using it's potential but im still happy i bought it







will upgrade mobo in a month or so, so that i can really see what this thing can do


----------



## africandavid

All you got to do is up your vcore a little, and maybe do pencil mod. should help a lot.


----------



## battlezone

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


All you got to do is up your vcore a little, and maybe do pencil mod. should help a lot.


I tried till 1.2625V but that's quite high, people run 3,5+ ghz with that kind of voltage


----------



## battlezone

how odd; when changing fsb and memory speeds, it just reverts them after booting







so i cant even set my memory to 1000mhz


----------



## deltaepsylon

Well, I guess that explains the whole Q9***'s on this motherboard thing.


----------



## africandavid

I don't think so, I actually had the same problem with this cpu and an E6300 on this board, I restored to defaults and turned system off for a while to fix the problem, don't really know what caused it.


----------



## asch

Got my E7500 @ 3.8 and 1.31 vcore
Working great until today i got the first freeze when playing a game. Should and increase on vcore work?


----------



## ltrevo

what is your spec?


----------



## africandavid

Yes specs needed for sure


----------



## asch

P5N-E Sli 
[email protected] - Evercool Buffalo with AS5 thermal paste
GTS 250 512mb (not overcloked)
Kingston KVR800D2N5/1gb x2 @ stock
Corsair HX520w

I suspect it might be my Gpu.
Anyway i only got 2 or 3 freeze while gaming in about 3 months, it is really really rare to happen, but still, not normal.


----------



## africandavid

Asch, when you are logged in, click on "User cp" top of the page, scroll half way down the screen, you will see it says "edit system" click it and add all the info you can.

It will ask you for system temps, bios version, all the details wee need to help.

Click on my system name for an example.


----------



## asch

africandavid
System specs Updated.


----------



## africandavid

Did you do stability test after oc'ing your cpu?? ....like prime95 or occt?
Is your ram set as "unlinked", "linked" or "sync" in your bios?


----------



## asch

Yes prime95 5+ hours and no errors nor freeze, but temps get a little high at load, Coretemp shows peaks of 65Âº but average 55-57Âº.

Its set to unlinked, so memory is at stock speed.
FSB 400x9.5 mult


----------



## asch

Oh, also i have two Kingston KVR800D2N5/1gb and cpu-z shows timings 5-5-5-31 should'nt be at 5-5-5-18 ?
I have manually set this timings on the bios 5-5-5-31 and mem voltage is auto, the minimum on the bios is 1.9v but they are 1.8v ... so .. i dont know i thing they are working at 1.9v


----------



## africandavid

What is the default timings for this ram ?? it is valueram unfortunately, You sd you manually set the timings 5-5-5-31, I sggst you leave all ram settings on auto, set your FSB/Ram to "linked" 1:1

(Your fsb is set to 400mhz as u said, so if your FSB:RAM is set to "linked" with a 1:1 ratio you will be running at stock speed anyway)

I'm sure this will give you a more stable OC.

Now log onto windows, check cpu-z and see what your ram timings are.
Please post default or auto timings here, I'm curious to see what they are.


----------



## africandavid

The small voltage increase from 1.8-1.9 should not make too much of a difference, feel them to make sure the are not running too hot.


----------



## africandavid

Also,... what colour is the slots you installed the ram???... the black has been proven to be a lot more stable... give it a try.


----------



## asch

Hm, interesting. I loaded default config on bios and CPU-z shows memory
FSB : DRAM=2:3 and 5-5-5-18
But when i go back to 400 fsb / 9.5 multi to get a 1:1 divisor Cpu-z shows 5-5-5-31 (I left memory timings on auto).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Also,... what colour is the slots you installed the ram???... the black has been proven to be a lot more stable... give it a try.


They are both on the yellow slot. Will try em on the black one.


----------



## asch

I changed the rams to the black slots and changed the timings on the bios to 5-5-5-18. Mem voltage is set to 1.9v (minimum i can get).

Lets see how stable it is now.


----------



## africandavid

How's it working for you?


----------



## asch

africandavid
Yeap, its stable!
Looks like setting mem voltage and the right mem timings did the job.
Thanks bro.


----------



## africandavid

Nice job


----------



## africandavid

check this... yeah !!!
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=726600

http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/s.../screenie2.jpg


----------



## davidfox2003

Hi Overclockers --

I'm new to the board but have had a p5n-e for a long time. My hardware is kind of old, but my school issued me a copy of 64-bit windows7 and I want to install it on my machine and get the most out of it.

My technical knowledge is decent, but not expert: I built my own PC, and installed my own software, but I don't feel comfortable doing advanced hardware modding. Plus, I have very little money so at most I might be able to buy new memory to get the most out of the 64-bit OS.

Here's my hardware: 
E6300 Conroe 1.86 GHz (1066 FSB)
CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X2048-6400C4 memory -- non QVL memory.







I originally had problems with trying to run this memory at 4-4-4-12(T1) when I got it and am running it at 5-5-5-31(T2).







(
WDC SATA II Caviar RE 320GB 7200
CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX 620W ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.9
EVGA 256-P2-N624-AR GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 SLI

My question is: how can I get my memory to run at the rate it's supposed to?

Thanks! I look forward to learning from your expertise.

-- Dave


----------



## africandavid

I was able to get 3.15ghz with that cpu on this board. It will be perfect, really good overclocker.

The ram ???.. depends on your fsb:momory ratio. I think you might have to OC yur ram a little to get fsb high enough to reach 3.15 ghz.


----------



## Ned

Anyone using this Ram in this mobo?

Corsair Dominator 2 x 2GB PC28500 DDR2 1066

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145197


----------



## africandavid

What is it you need to know ???


----------



## Ned

I was debating between the dominator ram running overclocked at 1066 mhs instead of the xms2 running at 800 mhz. I went with the 800 mhz, the dominator has a fan for it, I decided I just didn't want to go there.


----------



## africandavid

Big price difference?? I think the dominator is good ram though.


----------



## pheoxs

Well, my P5N is down for the count again, looks like its heading back to Asus once I phone them up for a RMA







Thinking its gonna get sold once its all fixed up.


----------



## Twau

Seems like my computer is stable now, after Pencil Mod, and installing Akasa AK-210 Chipset Cooler, the heatsink went to SB and the fan to NB.

One problem is having stable vcore, it's just stable on some values after the pencil mod, before the pencil mod it was impossible to get stable. But now it seems to work at my current Value. So I guess I should be happy.

E6300 L2, 7x450 @ 1.376V Vcore(cpu-z value not bios)
Load temp: 54c
Idle temp: 22c
Ambient: 35c
TJmax: 80

My next project is to overclock my memory, never done it before, so I need to read alot about it, and ask if there is something I should know about? Previous posts in this thread said the black memory slots are more stable, should I change? Or just changed if I run into problems...

My memorys:
Corsair TWIN2X PC6400 DDR2 2GB KIT CL5
Kit w/2x 1GB XMS2-6400 dimm's, CL5-5-5-18, 800MHz

Running the 1301 bios right now, is the 1403 beta better? When will the stable bios version release? No point changing something that is working thought.

Best Regards
Twau


----------



## africandavid

Nice job on the OC. You might be able to get higher oc with new bios though. This bios is a lot more stable than any other.

What is your setting for your FSB:ram ratio ?? your fsb is currantly at 450mhz, just set your ram to linked with ratio of 1:1 and your ram will be oc'd to 900 mhz wich is a pretty safe oc, just set you ram voltage to 2.08v for stability if necessary. Leave ram timings on auto for now till you read up some more on timings etc.


----------



## Twau

Right now I have it on unlinked and stock timings, no errors in memtest at least. Will change it to linked(1:1) since I havent found any good facts about other overclock timings, so lets start there. Thanks for the tip!

Edit, changed to Linked now, but couldn't have 1:1 ratio since that would put my mhz too high, but "Synced mode" put em to 900 mhz


----------



## africandavid

Nice job...


----------



## africandavid

Cpu-z should read 1:1 ratio for fsb and mem.


----------



## Mike431635

I'm having an issue getting my new RAM to work on this board. I'm running this kit:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231166

It has excellent reviews, but I absolutely can not get it to run at 1066MHz. I've got it set at 5-5-5-15 manually, voltage is at 2.178V (or whatever the closest setting is, I'm at work now so I can't check), and if I set it to 1066MHz the system just will not boot. I'll have to restart, re-enter the BIOS, and clock them down. The highest I've been able to get them is about 905MHz. I'm running my FSB/RAM unlinked and FSB is 387.5 (effectively 1550) or 3.1 GHz.

In addition, I used to be able to run my chip at 3.4GHz easy at 1.39V. A while back I clocked it down to 3.0GHz cause I kept crashing and thought it was the PSU. Now even on my new Corsair 750TX, and even if I manually set the vcore as high as 1.5V, the same non-boot situation as above happens. The strange thing is, if I set vcore to auto and reboot with the same settings the system runs flawlessly. I check vcore in CPU-Z and it's reading 1.47V. Anyone else run into these issues? Is my board just on its way out?

I'm building a new i7 rig but my fiance is inheriting this one to replace her old Dell w/ an Athlon XP. I'd like it to run fast and stable for her.. preferably back at 3.4GHz and memory at its rated speed or higher. If my board is dying.. maybe I'll get a Gigabyte UD3P/3R and Q6600 and set her up with that.


----------



## africandavid

Hey

Have you tried running higher FSB with lower CPU multiplier to get your ram stable. Sometimes there is a chipset strap, or fsb hole that prevents the board from running stable a specific setting, raising your FSB will likely get you over that strap. 
What is your NB voltage set to, set it to 1.5**v for stability if not at that setting already, make sure you have adequate cooling if you MB is running above 45c.

Hope this helps!


----------



## africandavid

First set your NB voltage to 1.5v then try 425mhz with 8x multiplier wich gives you FSB of 1700 or 3400hz.

If that doesn't work try to set you FSB to 450mhz and lower your CPU multiplier to 7x, then try to get you ram up to spec speed.


----------



## Vegettoex

Hi hi, i'm new in here..... i have a little question, i want to buy a E3200 cpu, and I wonder if it will work in my motherboard, of course i have a P5N-E sli, can you help me







?


----------



## africandavid

For sure it will


----------



## Mike431635

Ok david, tried a bunch of stuff. NB voltage is at 1.57V, I'm hitting 37C now at that voltage. I tried switching vcore to 1.50 in BIOS but the system won't boot.. set it to auto, it boots. CPU-Z reads 1.472V and PC Probe reads 1.47V. I think something is screwy with my BIOS.. won't let me manually set vcore. Anyhow, got vDimm at 2.178 or w/e it is (closest setting) and highest I can get RAM to is 904MHz. I can't get past 3.1GHz on the CPU (even raising the FSB by 1 is keeping it from booting).

I tried 425MHz x 8, 450 x 7, 500 x 6, a bunch of varieties. No go. My multi is locked between 6 and 8. I really don't know what else to do. I KNOW this CPU COULD do it.. it did 3.4GHz on 1.49 when I first built it (not the 1.39 I said above..)

Getting really frustrated that I can't run this RAM at its STOCK speed..


----------



## Mike431635

FYI I flashed to the latest BIOS and still no go. It'll boot at 3.4GHz (425x8) but halts before it finishes POSTing. ***


----------



## Vegettoex

u_u i can't get the processor over 3.69ghz at 305x12 it doesn't matter what else i do...... any ideas???? i'm hating my motherboard right now.


----------



## africandavid

There is nothing wrong with that oc... most people end up at around 3.3ghz tops with a E2180. thats not bad.


----------



## Vegettoex

The problem is, that i'm using the E3200 ..... it should get closer to 4ghz i think, and i can't get it any higher >.<


----------



## Mike431635

4GHz out of any C2D is very optimistic. I think you're sitting pretty nice at almost 3.7


----------



## Twau

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mike431635*


FYI I flashed to the latest BIOS and still no go. It'll boot at 3.4GHz (425x8) but halts before it finishes POSTing. ***



Have you updated BIOS without clearing the CMOS?
Do you have a P5N-E SLI without SB heatspreader?

Otherwise I would start out with reseting the cmos, and if that wont get you higher, try installing a heatspreader at SB, couldnt even go over 2.8Ghz without it..

Best wishes
Twau


----------



## Mike431635

Twau: nope I haven't cleared the CMOS, maybe I'll write down all my settings, clear CMOS, and try again. And I have the original revision without a SB spreader. I can get one relatively cheap, so I'll look into this as well.

Right now I'm battling my new i7 rig trying to get everything set up. Once its stable I'll be working on the C2D machine again.


----------



## Hempies

Hi Guys

New to this forum.

I have a question: I get very low OC results with my Q9300. Up from stock 2500 to 2800(FSB 375) @ 1.397V. What can I do to get better results? Will better cooling on northbridge help? Does occupying all 4 ram slots worsen results? What is the most stable/best bios currently?

Currently ram running [email protected] CPU temps @ 34 degrees. The mobo chipset heatsink feels very hot, seems like a clumsy cooler so don't know how big a role it plays.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## marsey99

welcome to oc.net hempies









yes keeping the nb on this mobo is very important and you may find that removing 2 sticks of ram will help you get a higher fsb but you might also find that running your ram slower might help too.

you could get a small fan an screw it to the current heatsink or get a small tower type from thermalright or noctua as they both have very good nb heatsinks. i went with the noctua nc 06 i think its called and i managed to get upto 450fsb with my [email protected] on my p5ne sli, but i did only have 2 2gb stciks.

hope this helps you some


----------



## africandavid

Hi hempies
Try do the vdroop pencil mod to take care of the horrible vdroop. And for Quads bios rev 1403 is by far the most stable.


----------



## Hempies

Thanks for your response!

I lowered my memory to 800, removed 2 dimms, even lowered the multiplier to 6, but the board just doesn't want to go past 375mhz fsb.

I will try the pencil mod and update bios and see what happens.

Thanks again!


----------



## VULKAR

hi

i'm trying to reach 3.0GHz with my q6600. i'm currently using bios 0803. what's the easiest way to upgrade it to 1403? i don't have a floppy drive and i'm not too sure how to make a bootable CD image. also, do i really need to do the pencil mod if i'm only wanting to push it to 3.0GHz?

THANKS!


----------



## Vegettoex

Hi vulkar, you can make a usb-stick bootable, see here how http://www.biosflash.com/e/bios-boot-usb-stick.htm hope it helps you.


----------



## marsey99

aslong as you trust your power you can flash those from within windows now with software from asus.


----------



## crazydj

Hi guys!

Check out this link! Help needed! Thanks!

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...obo-dying.html


----------



## mavizaman

its my record: 3.42ghz
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=767629


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mavizaman*


its my record: 3.42ghz
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=767629


Did you use your currant bios to get to 3.4??


----------



## Awesome

Hempies, 375mhz FSB was the max I could get mine 100% stable on. 400mhz was 95% stable. With a quad you won't be able to get too high on this board, it can't handle the voltages. Also, I used 0608 for months at my current clock with no probs. I upgraded to 1403 recently. No real difference.


----------



## mavizaman

it was only test with 0901 for o.c. competition
vcore:1.500v
i cant use it cause has not 3rd party cooler.
when i ran ortos @3.4 with stock cooler temps are 90c's


----------



## Awesome

You'll blow your CPU really fast at that temp... but yeah my dad's i7 gets that hot when maxed out on the stock cooler, and that's without an overclock!


----------



## africandavid

Damn... Where do you live?? Miami?? No aircon ???


----------



## Awesome

Me or him? I live in a (right now) quite cold area... ambient temps at the time I got my dad's PC up to 90C was around 70F, but I got it over 80C in 40F ambient temps.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Awesome*


Me or him? I live in a (right now) quite cold area... ambient temps at the time I got my dad's PC up to 90C was around 70F, but I got it over 80C in 40F ambient temps.


Those temps aren't safe at all!


----------



## Awesome

Yeah, I know. Thank God he never will use all 8 theoretical cores to the extent required to generate those temps. It does run extremely warm even at idle, but I don't think he'll get over 60C with the way he uses it.


----------



## xtascox

I setup my P5N-E again with my old Pentium 4 631. Wow, these pieces of hardware love each other. I'm stable at 4.3ghz at 1.42v. I can get 4.5ghz stable at 1.45v but my temps start to get a little high then. Keep in mind, this is all on a $12 masscool CPU cooler. Idle is 40c and 100% load is at 58c for 4.3ghz.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xtascox*


I setup my P5N-E again with my old Pentium 4 631. Wow, these pieces of hardware love each other. I'm stable at 4.3ghz at 1.42v. I can get 4.5ghz stable at 1.45v but my temps start to get a little high then. Keep in mind, this is all on a $12 masscool CPU cooler. Idle is 40c and 100% load is at 58c for 4.3ghz.


Thats some very nice numbers.


----------



## shahin

I wonder if anybody is using latest Asus bios 1404 with q6600 and how is it?

I downgraded my BIOS to 0608 and have been stable @ 3.03 GHz for months, on most other bioses I could not get this overclock 3.03 GHz and stable. I have not tried 1402 beta and after.


----------



## Zippit

Oh hey guys... you missed me?


----------



## sexybastard

lol what a coincidence.

I sold my old OCZ Vendetta 2 cooler to some guy on craigslist today and we got to talking. He said he was using the Asus P5N-E SLI as his board and how much he loves it. I was like damn I had that board as well and it was great. Just random to see this thread bumped today as well.

I sold her off 5 months ago and I hope shes being taken care off. She deserved a good home.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


Oh hey guys... you missed me?










Welcome back Zippit, perfect timing ... we've got a trophy here waiting for you...









You got voted "Sexiest Member to Own a P5N-E Sli 650i"

Congrats, you ought to make a speech!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


lol what a coincidence.

I sold my old OCZ Vendetta 2 cooler to some guy on craigslist today and we got to talking. He said he was using the Asus P5N-E SLI as his board and how much he loves it. I was like damn I had that board as well and it was great. Just random to see this thread bumped today as well.

I sold her off 5 months ago and I hope shes being taken care off. She deserved a good home.


Good boards fully deserve happy homes.


----------



## razorx

*Note:* _Edited for pointer to post #9302, voltage for OC does not have to be near this high and 1.18 seems to be working fine as noted in my later post. cpu is not meant to exceed 1.3625 voltage._

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread which definitely helped me make some decisions about how to upgrade my board, though, did take a leap of faith on the memory...

I knew absolutely nothing about OC last week and am slightly less ignorant now, so thanks again!

Apologies for not knowing how to post just the image other than screenshotting so link is below:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820483

Running temps of CPU at 37C with each core varying from 40-44C, not sure why the average doesn't work out.

Under Prime95 load, each core is running 58-62C with average CPU at 50C however, am cheating since i have the side case open in my Centurion 5. Cooling is a problem even though the 120MM Silverstone exhaust at 110CFM has helped quite a bit. I get a 4-3 bay Fan 120MM tomorrow so should help even more.

The pencil mod is "magic", not much more to say there. I have no measurable vdroop where before it was .1v.

Intent is to run multiple vmware images for development and testing hence the memory focus.

I ran Prime95 for 30 minutes just fine. Then decided to close the side case. Not a good idea, watched the core temps run up to 75C and then cpu decided to quit.

There may be more room to push it, but it won't materially matter for what I do.

Voltage has been manually set at 1.43? which consistently reports .03-4 higher in cpuid.

No voltage changes for Northbridge. Mainboard is running at 40C.

Zalmann 9900 with MX-2 which seems to work rather well, but not quite the magic was expecting probably because i am limited with my intake fans right now.

Original config was 2Gb of 553, Pentium D 605 Smithfield, 8800 GTS with stock Centurion fans. $1000 later?







Works for me.

Pulls 300Watts from the wall per my monitor on the plug, not sure about that... seems like it should be more under load. Using Enermax 500W, great power supply.

Apologies for the powerpoint dump writing style


----------



## JRG

Hi guys.

I'm currently running XP under bios0608 with 2gb (2x1gb) ram. Will soon be installing Win7 and increasing ram. Will I have any issues running bios0608 with Win7 and 4gb (2x2gb) ram?

I'd prefer not to upgrade the bios if possible because 0608 has been running (with oc'ing) great for 2 years!

Thanks.


----------



## africandavid

You should be fine.


----------



## africandavid

It's nice to see these overclocks on this board, I would have never thought this would be possible a few months ago.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *razorx*


Thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread which definitely helped me make some decisions about how to upgrade my board, though, did take a leap of faith on the memory...

I knew absolutely nothing about OC last week and am slightly less ignorant now, so thanks again!

Apologies for not knowing how to post just the image other than screenshotting so link is below:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=820483

Running temps of CPU at 37C with each core varying from 40-44C, not sure why the average doesn't work out.

Under Prime95 load, each core is running 58-62C with average CPU at 50C however, am cheating since i have the side case open in my Centurion 5. Cooling is a problem even though the 120MM Silverstone exhaust at 110CFM has helped quite a bit. I get a 4-3 bay Fan 120MM tomorrow so should help even more.

The pencil mod is "magic", not much more to say there. I have no measurable vdroop where before it was .1v.

Intent is to run multiple vmware images for development and testing hence the memory focus.

I ran Prime95 for 30 minutes just fine. Then decided to close the side case. Not a good idea, watched the core temps run up to 75C and then cpu decided to quit.

There may be more room to push it, but it won't materially matter for what I do.

Voltage has been manually set at 1.43? which consistently reports .03-4 higher in cpuid.

No voltage changes for Northbridge. Mainboard is running at 40C.

Zalmann 9900 with MX-2 which seems to work rather well, but not quite the magic was expecting probably because i am limited with my intake fans right now.

Original config was 2Gb of 553, Pentium D 605 Smithfield, 8800 GTS with stock Centurion fans. $1000 later?







Works for me.

Pulls 300Watts from the wall per my monitor on the plug, not sure about that... seems like it should be more under load. Using Enermax 500W, great power supply.

Apologies for the powerpoint dump writing style


----------



## africandavid

shahin... best is 1403.. for me anyway, it works great.


----------



## razorx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


It's nice to see these overclocks on this board, I would have never thought this would be possible a few months ago.


This thread has been a goldmine of "stuff" to try in particular your posts so props!

Has been running stable throughout the afternoon and evening. We'll see over the next week or so though, the eternal pessimist...

The new GTS 250 is a nice card. I wonder about overclocking the video card... my development windows would open up faster by 10-20ms
















Fairly pleased with it still running considering this mobo ran 24hours a day for almost three years only being turned off to be turned back on again. That should jinx it.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *No1Joker* 
Welcome back Zippit, perfect timing ... we've got a trophy here waiting for you...









You got voted "Sexiest Member to Own a P5N-E Sli 650i"

Congrats, you ought to make a speech!

Damn Im bad at speeches... but thanks I guess?


----------



## africandavid

That's pretty amazing, I don't leave my system on for too long, usually about 10-12 hrs a week, I should be good for 10 yrs...lol.

Who would have known the trials and tribulations that came along with buying this board, it has been a battle that's for sure. Would have never come across this forum though if it wern't for this.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *razorx*


This thread has been a goldmine of "stuff" to try in particular your posts so props!

Has been running stable throughout the afternoon and evening. We'll see over the next week or so though, the eternal pessimist...

The new GTS 250 is a nice card. I wonder about overclocking the video card... my development windows would open up faster by 10-20ms
















Fairly pleased with it still running considering this mobo ran 24hours a day for almost three years only being turned off to be turned back on again. That should jinx it.


----------



## razorx

New cpu voltage overclock info, amazing low... updated cpuz

Set Northbridge to the 1.56 voltage and memory to 1.92v, memory is rated for 1.8v.

Bios setting for CPU voltage is *NOW 1.1475* which reads 1.18 by cpuz. I have dropped from 3.59Ghz to 3.48Ghz since I seemed to be running into instabilities running Prime95 after I performed a CMOS reset (testing memory timings and BIOS decided to not come up). After the CMOS reset, 3.59Ghz seemed to flake out.

However, the hour and a half spent on the phone with Microsoft when Windows 7 Pro reported that my copy was no longer genuine, priceless







. If I reset my bios, may have to go through that again where they rebuild a product key from the serial product number engraved into the product dvd. What a royal pain and really discourages me from further memory tweaking since this is holding back my OC efforts.

I am typing this while Prime95 is running with temps really low for this case given poor airflow with side closed, no more cheating on cooling since voltage is so low by an open case. Each core is running from 47C-53C with overall processor temp at 43C to 44C.

120mm exhaust fan at 110cfm plus an 80mm intake at 20cfm and a new today 120mm 4-3 cooler master intake at 40cfm.


----------



## razorx

Final, final update









Saw windows instability while running Acronis where the system froze. After bumping bios voltage, Prime95 stable for four hours and Windows no longer freezes even with 2 vmware images running, Acronis backing up, and Prime95 running. Precise voltage settings are:

cpu 1.16875v
mem 1.92v
NB 1.563

Bios has an algorithmic error to overclock any higher reliably and I think it is due to the 4x2Gb DDR2 800Mhz memory sticks (OCZ PC6400). Any voltage changes made no difference on behavior, this is all a bios problem my guess.

1640/820 runs rock stable, however, bios will not even save/reboot properly at any FSB over 1680 with subsequent failure to POST. 805D did not have this bios math problem. FSB ratings between 1640 to 1680 windows locks up and voltage changes do not affect that behavior nor does reducing memory speed. With this cpu and memory, BIOS I think has some kind of internal algorithm error that begins past 1640 FSB. I thought there might be a "hole" in the FSB and tried various FSB settings in the 1700-1800 range and bios would never save and reboot properly, post, and in some cases, would fail to come up hence my keeping the battery out while I cycled through all of these choices. Fortunately, Windows 7 didn't complain about this.

I might modify memory timings now, but doubt that the gains will be worth the effort.

Hopefully my experience may help others on Q9550s.

Updated cpuz


----------



## mavizaman

razor can you publish some benchmark tests?
for ex: sisoft,pcmark


----------



## razorx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mavizaman* 
razor can you publish some benchmark tests?
for ex: sisoft,pcmark

I have uploaded PassMark, haven't used PCMark. Just search for string "BL113673" though there aren't that many Q9550s posted.

I'll give PCMark a try, since PassMark does not report the correct multiplier for this processor so the Ghz is incorrect. Not sure why that is the case since cpuz doesn't have any problems. It is reported as a 9x multiplier vs. 8.5x which is in Bios.


----------



## razorx

PCMark is not Windows 7 64-bit capable, still tried to run it but won't complete the test runs. I did get a cpu score of 10774 and it least it reads the speed properly unlike PassMark.


----------



## razorx

I ran sisoft and it gives an aggregate of 55.53 GOPS. Not sure how to upload the full stats online though, clicking on verify seemed gave a website down error message. The benchmark closest was an i7 950 which there really wasn't much difference between it and my results.

I'm really pleased with it, just wish bios would get "fixed" to see how much further it can be pushed.


----------



## razorx

I don't think it will make a difference in trying to get past 1640 but, I do think it is a memory limitation. Possibly BIOS reading settings from memory then "inhibits"? Dunno, but Reaper mem should eliminate the memory constraint and then it becomes a board/bios issue not even getting to POST.

Since starting on this, I have been led to lookup the term OCD... of course, doesn't apply to me...

UPDATE: OCZ Reaper memory while running at 4-4-4-15-2T runs fine, there is no difference in behavior with BIOS, same FSB ceiling. Curiously, with 4Gb I can run 1T just not 8Gb. I have posted on ASUS about this, but, I think that is that.

Since I can't overclock further than this, using OCZ Reaper memory is pointless so I have moved back to OCZ DDR2 800Mhz 1.8v Gold and works flawlessly through Prime95 and Memtest. Really stoked about how the upgrade works and that magical pencil mod for which none of this would be possible IMNSHO.


----------



## africandavid

Nice job man.


----------



## hawk187

Hey all... Im completely new to overclocking, but looking to get more out of my current setup.

From reading through this forum I found my motherboard isnt ideal for a quad-core processor, wish I knew that 2 years ago lol.

I am yet to find a strait forward guide to overclocking this thing... so if anyone could point me in the right direction it would be a great help!!


----------



## sexybastard

this is assuming you know how to get around the bios

to get to 3.2ghz (should be doable).

set the FSB to 1600
set CPU multiplier to 8
set memory to 1:1 (800mhz) 
set cpu vcore to 1.35 
set memory voltage to whatever your memory is rated at.
set nortbridge voltage to 1.39v

run prime95 to see if it is stable (10 minutes to get an idea initially). If it fails up the vcore. If it passes and you are happy with the speed try to lower the vcore as much as you can while still passing prime95.

if you want more speed just up the FSB and set the memory to 1:1 ratio (which is always half the FSB).


----------



## africandavid

Lol... have you had a p5n-e ??.. I would love to just plug in those setting and get it to work, good luck with that.


----------



## chau

Anyone with a good knowledge in OC'ing willing to walk me through towards successfully running to 3.0-3.4 stable? I have no idea what I am doing and simply reading tutorials is just making me more confused...

Not the exact same board, but similar.

I have provided screens of my bios.

Just need to know what to change, and what programs I need to run to check stability.

Specs:
Mobo - EVGA 650i Ultra
CPU - Intel E6600
CPU Cooler - Arctic Freezer Pro 7
RAM - GSKILL DDR2-800 4gb
vCard - SAPPHIRE 4780x2 2GB
PSU - CORSAIR TX650W

BIOS screens:
http://img132.imageshack.us/i/p1020808.jpg/
http://img25.imageshack.us/i/p1020804y.jpg/
http://img43.imageshack.us/i/p1020805q.jpg/
http://img43.imageshack.us/i/p1020806k.jpg/
http://img195.imageshack.us/i/p1020807.jpg/

Thanks in advanced!


----------



## sexybastard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


Lol... have you had a p5n-e ??.. I would love to just plug in those setting and get it to work, good luck with that.


Of course I've owned the P5N-E. It was a great board for what it was and I got quite adept at overclocking with it. I had my fist C2D chip on it and I got that up to a 470FSB 24/7. I then got an E7200 which rocking at 3800mhz 24/7. Both of them 8+hrs Orthos Stable.

What are so off about the numbers I gave him? They should work for 3200mhz. A basic idea for him to go off.

At least I try and help.


----------



## pheoxs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sexybastard*


Of course I've owned the P5N-E. It was a great board for what it was and I got quite adept at overclocking with it. I had my fist C2D chip on it and I got that up to a 470FSB 24/7. I then got an E7200 which rocking at 3800mhz 24/7. Both of them 8+hrs Orthos Stable.

What are so off about the numbers I gave him? They should work for 3200mhz. A basic idea for him to go off.

At least I try and help.


They would work perfectly fine for a C2D, not a C2Q.

This board doesn't seem to play well, there have been few quads pushing 3ghz, more so now than when the board was in its early infancy. The simple fact is, this board sucks for Quads and there's no just plug in the numbers to push 3.2 on a quad.


----------



## rasa123

My p5ne kicked the bucket after 3 years.







It will be missed.... Until I get the new rig in a few days!


----------



## mgdub

hi all i am new to the forum...









and i am new at overclocking bussiness

i have the legendary p5n-e sli 650i
intel core 2 duo e4600 (Conroe)@ 2.4
2x kingston 1GB DDR2 800MHz Non-ECC CL55-5-5-15 2.0v (timeing according to manufacturer)
asus nvidia gefore 8600gt graphics
am runing windows 7 
my goal is to oc this baby to 3.0 or above
i tried many of the guides and just when i think "woot" i got it ORTHOS slaps me in the face with BSOD 
if there is someone who is still useing or used same/similar spec as i ,could guide me from beggining and point me what am i doing wrong...

thank you


----------



## drfish

How time flies...

I'm trying to hang on to my Q6600 as long as possible, my OCing adventures in the past have not ended with the perfect stability I'd hoped for so I'm still running stock... My goal has always been a happy 3Ghz and it seems like with the new 1403 BIOS that should be easier but I still can't seem to manage, in fact I'm worse off now than ever before...

My Q6600 is a B3 which I know isn't ideal but it's what I've got to work with, my cooler is a TRUE 120 Extreme - idle temps are about 28ÂºC with load around 35ÂºC so I should be covered cooling wise.

Memory is 4GB of DDR2 1066Mhz from G.Skill, it has a EPP profile for 533 w/ 2.1 volts but I run it at 400Mhz because the mobo defaults to it (and I'm scared).

Also, I have a pair of 8800GTXs as my video cards...

I've done no pencil mods or anything of the like so far but I'm willing to try...

I'll shut up and let my stock screen shots do the talking:

Any advice from the pros about what to expect or how to proceed would be awesome, thanks!


----------



## drfish

Just to give you an idea of my problems, I locked my memory at 800Mhz, manually set the timings so it wasn't a factor, boosted my voltage to 1.5 which is as high as I'd ever hope to go and changed my FSB from 1066 to 1200 - I post at 2.7Ghz perfectly but blue screen as soon as Windows starts to load (Win 7 RC, 64bit). Do I need to add voltage to my north bridge to run at the higher FSB?


----------



## africandavid

I'm sorry I don't know anything about that cpu but the fact(based on many of these forums) that it doesn't oc very well at all. I have the Q6600 G0. Good luck though.


----------



## JRG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
Just to give you an idea of my problems, I locked my memory at 800Mhz, manually set the timings so it wasn't a factor, boosted my voltage to 1.5 which is as high as I'd ever hope to go and changed my FSB from 1066 to 1200 - I post at 2.7Ghz perfectly but blue screen as soon as Windows starts to load (Win 7 RC, 64bit). Do I need to add voltage to my north bridge to run at the higher FSB?

Go to 1.393V on the north bridge if you haven't already. Worked well for me. Although I added a passive heat sink on it just to be safe.


----------



## mwoods07

Anyone having any issues with the P5n32e SLI plus and an Nvidia 8800 series video card? If you have, and you fixed it, I'd love to hear your story. Seems the MB chipset drivers are too old and not playing nice with newer Nvidia drivers.


----------



## Hajpoj

Is anyone having any problems with bios 1404? I'm on 1403 and contemplating an update.


----------



## eminded1

iv been on the 1404 and iv had o problems.


----------



## b1gapl

I just got another 8800GT for this board to run SLI. I changed the EZ selector card to dual mode, but it won't boot. Then I tested each card by itself with the selector card in dual mode...no boot. But each of them (one at a time) do boot when the selector card is changed back to single mode. So no problem with the graphic cards, thank goodness.

Any ideas? Especially from those that are running a multiple GPU setup with this board.

I also noticed that after 45 seconds or so (normal for boot time), I'm able to press either caps, num, or scroll lock, and have them light up. Which makes me think that it is booting up, just with no video signal.

*EDIT*
A little update. I read that some have had success in booting in when they removed the selector card. So I did that, and it booted with both cards, but only one is detected. I reinstalled drivers and still no detection. Then I decided to flash to the latest 1406 BIOS. Nothing either. And then I inserted the selector card back, hoping the BIOS flash fixed it. Same result. At this point I've pretty much given up, and decided to put the second 8800GT in another computer for the time being.

Now it won't boot with the selector card in (single mode), even with one graphic card installed. It can only boot without the selector.

sigh....


----------



## blackntan

I just bought the following:

Asus P5N-E
Intel E7400
Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 2GB kit (1gb x 2)
Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7

I would like to try overclocking the CPU a little (say to 3Ghz or 3.2Ghz...not sure how much risk is involved with 3.2 Ghz).

1) I have never overclocked before. Anyone use this combo before that could provide some settings to try?
2) Should I use this guide and if so, what I should change for the E7400?

http://www.erodov.com/forums/guide-o...e-sli/733.html

Or am I just better off working with someone on this forum from scratch. I don't really have a lot of time to read a lot. I am not looking to do crazy overboard overclock. I just want my E7400 to have a little kick to it. I did read the first page and will take the first steps of making sure that base system is stable, etc. It looks like my components are compatible. Will post my memory timings/specs shortly

3) I don't think I really want to mess around with heatsinks on the NB and SB. If I only overclock to 3.0 Ghz, will I still need the heatsinks? If so, where can I get them for cheap? Is there a guide for removing the NB heatsinks to apply AS5?

By the way, I also found this thread in my research:
http://www.computerforum.com/165103-...k-e7400-2.html


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackntan*


I just bought the following:

Asus P5N-E
Intel E7400
Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800 2GB kit (1gb x 2)
Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 7

I would like to try overclocking the CPU a little (say to 3Ghz or 3.2Ghz...not sure how much risk is involved with 3.2 Ghz).

1) I have never overclocked before. Anyone use this combo before that could provide some settings to try?
2) Should I use this guide and if so, what I should change for the E7400?

http://www.erodov.com/forums/guide-o...e-sli/733.html

Or am I just better off working with someone on this forum from scratch. I don't really have a lot of time to read a lot. I am not looking to do crazy overboard overclock. I just want my E7400 to have a little kick to it. I did read the first page and will take the first steps of making sure that base system is stable, etc. It looks like my components are compatible. Will post my memory timings/specs shortly

3) I don't think I really want to mess around with heatsinks on the NB and SB. If I only overclock to 3.0 Ghz, will I still need the heatsinks? If so, where can I get them for cheap? Is there a guide for removing the NB heatsinks to apply AS5?

By the way, I also found this thread in my research:
http://www.computerforum.com/165103-...k-e7400-2.html


1) No offense, but if you don't have the time to read up on OC'ing this board, I certainly don't have the time to screen threads for you.
2) I have OC'd an e7200 on this board to 4.0 GHz. It takes some trial and error because of the nuances of the individual boards and chips, but it's not hard. You may be able to achieve your goal without much change to your volts.
3) You won't need aftermarket heatsinks for the NB/SB for your planned OC.
4) The NB heatsink (on my board) is attached with two plastic push pins. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to gently squeeze the flared wings from the back of the mobo to get the NB to release.
5) Good luck and happy overclocking!


----------



## mgdub

i also have this great board with C2D e4600 2,4ghz

i have managed to get my oc to 3.3ghz 275fsbx12 at 1.51 vcore nbcore at 1.39

tested in OCCT stable 6h stable
OCCT linpack 3h stable

temps idle 29C load in OCCT normal 52C
in OCCT linpack 58-60C

now i hitted a wall i tried 3261mhz with vcore 1.51,1.55 and keeps on crashin i am affraid to raise my vcore more cuz then ill get temps above 60C

you can check here also http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...p5n-e-sli.html

i use some ASUS 400watt psu
also i have like 6 x 120mm fans and 1 x 80mm,which could be drainin alot of power
is my vcore too high and should i get a better PSU???
and which PSU can you recommend
how high can i push vcore,nbcore,core temps since according to intel max is 73,3 C for my proc...

i rly need answers on this so any help would be really appriciated!

Thanks


----------



## Aardobard

At 1.51V in Vcore, you are pushing the limit on this chip. It is my understanding that 1.50v is the "max" you can reasonably expect this 65nm chip to operate without degradation.

You've got a 40% OC on your chip. That's very respectable. :thumbs: You could try a better quality + higher power PSU. The more you push a OC, the more sensitive it becomes to voltage ripple. With your setup, something in the 500-550W range will be fine. This may not be the problem at this point. Unfortunately, only by fiddling with different settings are you going to discover why you are hitting this wall. OCing can be tedious. Be patient.

As far as temps go. I'm ok with ~65C on a 65nm chip with a linpack load, because you'll never see that in normal operations.

Have you tried bumping the NB to 1.5v (which is the next level IIRC)?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mgdub*


i also have this great board with C2D e4600 2,4ghz

i have managed to get my oc to 3.3ghz 275fsbx12 at 1.51 vcore nbcore at 1.39

tested in OCCT stable 6h stable
OCCT linpack 3h stable

temps idle 29C load in OCCT normal 52C
in OCCT linpack 58-60C

now i hitted a wall i tried 3261mhz with vcore 1.51,1.55 and keeps on crashin i am affraid to raise my vcore more cuz then ill get temps above 60C

you can check here also http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...p5n-e-sli.html

i use some ASUS 400watt psu
also i have like 6 x 120mm fans and 1 x 80mm,which could be drainin alot of power
is my vcore too high and should i get a better PSU???
and which PSU can you recommend
how high can i push vcore,nbcore,core temps since according to intel max is 73,3 C for my proc...

i rly need answers on this so any help would be really appriciated!

Thanks


----------



## mgdub

tried the nbcore 1.59....but it gets really hot

today i reached 3,4 with 1.525vcore and nbcore 1.39 idel 28-30C load 58-60 ORTHOS

also my fsb cant go above around 315 even with 1.59nbcore

ill post some ss here

i bought this rig 2 years ago

so far i have invested only in scythe mugen 2 (bought it last week)

i am going to recive some money soon so i am building a i7 920 rig


----------



## NoneBeforeNoneAfter

I have set almost ALL my settings to match that of "africandavid"..Starting with the 1401 bios.. I was using 0608 for a FREAT 3ghz run....After I changed over to the 1403 and clocked it to 3.516 ghz. I ran Prime for an hour and it did fine. I ran ALL sandra benchmarks and had no crashes. When I render in 3DS MAX with Vray it crashs after 30 minutes to an hour. 3ds Max takes the temps HIGHER than ANY benchmark out there by +4c . At full load in Max it is 63c. In Prime at 100 percent for 1 hour it never went above 53c. (Real Temp).....When my kids play Sims 3 or Combat Arms it crashes after a few minutes. I dont know what else to do to get this dialed in. I tried mem voltage at Auto and 1.91v and settings to 5.5.5.18.2T and 4.4.4.12.2T neither seems to solve the problem. NB is at 1.51. I did the pencil mod and the bios vcore is set at around 1.39 and it shows up in CPU-Z idle at aeound 1.42 it throttles back down to 1.39 at full load. Funny thing is that I can turn NB and Mem voltage to auto and it will still noot into windows. Seems flexible but not totalluy stable.


----------



## NoneBeforeNoneAfter

http://6543353182717817706-a-1802744...attredirects=0


----------



## drfish

How bad is running in SLI for my CPU overclock? If I dropped down to one GPU (upgrade) would I be able to improve it much?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NoneBeforeNoneAfter* 
I have set almost ALL my settings to match that of "africandavid"..Starting with the 1401 bios.. I was using 0608 for a FREAT 3ghz run....After I changed over to the 1403 and clocked it to 3.516 ghz. I ran Prime for an hour and it did fine. I ran ALL sandra benchmarks and had no crashes. When I render in 3DS MAX with Vray it crashs after 30 minutes to an hour. 3ds Max takes the temps HIGHER than ANY benchmark out there by +4c . At full load in Max it is 63c. In Prime at 100 percent for 1 hour it never went above 53c. (Real Temp).....When my kids play Sims 3 or Combat Arms it crashes after a few minutes. I dont know what else to do to get this dialed in. I tried mem voltage at Auto and 1.91v and settings to 5.5.5.18.2T and 4.4.4.12.2T neither seems to solve the problem. NB is at 1.51. I did the pencil mod and the bios vcore is set at around 1.39 and it shows up in CPU-Z idle at aeound 1.42 it throttles back down to 1.39 at full load. Funny thing is that I can turn NB and Mem voltage to auto and it will still noot into windows. Seems flexible but not totalluy stable.

I'm not sure what the whole history is, but I have a few observations and a question or two.
Your temps look ok. I doubt they are a factor.
You are running 2x 22" monitors from an 8500GT? If they (or even one) are running at native resolutions, I suspect that your GPU is heavily taxed and that might explain the crashes you are experiencing in games. Is it artifacting prior to crashing?
Have you independently tested the RAM (memtest)?
I realize that what I'm suggesting is pretty basic stuff compared to physical modding, but it can't hurt.
Good luck!


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drfish* 
How bad is running in SLI for my CPU overclock? If I dropped down to one GPU (upgrade) would I be able to improve it much?

Perhaps if you provided some system information you could get some useful replies. Use the "User CP" tab at the top to fill in this information for best results. I have no experience with SLI and overclocking, but I'd like to get you the help you need.


----------



## eggrolls

While cleaning out the dust in my computer, I decided to reseat the CPU and northbridge heatsink with some MX-2 paste. Also, I removed the pushpins from the cooler and used the Thermalright bolt-through kit instead. Here's some pics:

NB heatsink removed. It was a pain to put the heatsink back on though.









Bottom of the NB heatsink. It wasn't smooth to begin with, and I made it worse by removing the dried paste with a flat head screwdriver.









AC Freezer 7 Pro with bolt-through kit.









Installed the fan afterward, otherwise those screws would be impossible to tighten









So after removing 18 months worth of dust and bolting down the cooler, my idle/load temps went down by about 10-15 degrees. Maybe now I can try some overclocking


----------



## HAZED

Crazy stuff , I was searching for anyone OC'n a Asus P5N-E SLI and stumble onto this thread. 9,xxx+ posts ..damn Gina!

Have a old P4 630 Prescott (90nm) 3.0ghz / 2mb L2 / 800FSB (200fsb x 15multi) I have had OC'ed to 3750mhz @ 1.29-1.3v for a while now. Cooled by a Freezer 7 Pro / AS5.

I had 2GB Mushkin EM2 667mhz DDR2 @ 800mhz - 5-5-5-15 , then switched to a 64-bit OS and went with 4GB Mushkin Blackline 800mhz DDR2 @ 1000mhz - 5-4-4-12. Both have worked fine on this mobo.

Upgrading the cpu on a limited budget so I choose the Pentium Dual-Core E6500.

New old build:

Pentium Dual-Core E6500 / AF7 Pro
Asus P5N-E SLI
4GB Mushkin Blackline DDR2 800mhz - 5-4-4-12
BFG GTX280 OC (712c/1458s/1224m)
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB HDD
Corsair TX850
Windows 7 Pro 64-bit

Shooting for 341fsb x 11multi = 3.75ghz for the E6500 , hopfully it wont be much trouble.


----------



## texascbx

You should be able to get a good OC with that.


----------



## Galcobar

Got an odd result and wondering if anyone can explain it: my memory bandwidth goes down with a RAM overclock.

Running Patriot Extreme DDR2-6400, at 4-4-4-12 2T 400MHz (stock timings and speed) stable at 1.92VDimm. EEP #2 says it can run at 500MHz at 5-5-5-15 2T, tRC 35 (though the P5N-E only allows RC to 31). Using ScienceMark 2.0 to test the bandwidth.

Trying to OC it, pushed it to 900MHz from the stock 800 DDR, and upped the voltage to 2.35V (haven't tried to find out if it's stable at lower voltages). First pass at 450MHz I loosened the timings to 5-5-5-15 (tRC I left Auto) and the bandwidth dropped slightly. I figure okay, 25% increase in latency overpowers a 12.5% increase in speed.

At stock speeds and timings, I get a memory bandwidth of 7247-7298 MB/s. Move the speed to 900MHz and the bandwidth results drop to 7089-7238 MB/s.

Any ideas? I could understand a bandwidth drop due to looser timings, but bandwidth going down with higher speeds?
*
Edit: Okay, ignore the moron -- I had a program running in the background for the 900MHz 4-4-4-12 tests. The lower bandwidth due to the timings stands, however.*


----------



## shadcrkd

Okay, my q6600 won't boot at any fsb except stock and 1522mhz. Anything in between results in a failure to post. Whaaaaat? I can boot at 3.5ghz, and it crashes in prime95, but I can't boot at all at 3ghz. I tried 1333/667 and 1333/800 and neither boots.

Bios 1403 beta
vcore 1.4v
vdimm auto (1.8v)
5-5-5-18 2t
1333mhz fsb unlinked 800mhz memory
1.5v nb

any idea what's wrong


----------



## Aardobard

This board doesn't like 65nm quads. Somewhere in the bowels of this thread is a link to a guide for getting the most out of your q6600 on this board, but the results are likely to be relatively underwhelming and nowhere near the potential of the chip.

That's the bad news, the good news is that the 1403 bios is kinder to the q6600 than previous versions.


----------



## SCHECTER

What is the next step after reaching a 1:1 ratio with fsb/dram? Bios is unlinked.1550mhz.fsb=387.5 clock is 2712.5 dont know how to proceed next.voltages are stock.do i keep raising the fsb? This is new for me.trying to get to 3.0 without problems. Thanks for any help someone can give!


----------



## marsey99

its not that it dont like em, its the other way around in truth as this boadr can throw out enough juice to keep a quad happy as it only has 3 poewr regs. well 2 and one if you enable the +100mv option but dont forget that adds 0.1v to what ever you set your vcore to.

i used to love my p5n e sli, it got my e4300 to 3.6ghz


----------



## shadcrkd

For anyone using 4x1gb ddr2, I could only get it stable with memory @ 667mhz. (Q6600)

1522mhz unlinked 667mhz
1.38v vcore, shows up as 1.42v in cpu-z for some reason
auto vdimm (1.8v)
5-5-5-18-2t
1.56v nb

3.4ghz
runs 40c idle 65c load, looking for a better heatsink for a q6600. Any suggestions?


----------



## eminded1

Artic Cooling Freezer 7 for the HSF, anyway, i still am folding on my p5n-e sli with the e5200 at 3.45 GHZ, 1200fsb 300x11.5, I am also ocing the ram. xms2 dhx c4's 4X1GB at 960Mhz 2.1vdimm, 5,5,5,12,22,2t
everything is really stable. I managed to push the FSB to 1340 335x10.5=3517MHZ and ram was at stock.. It was stable 3 hrs orthos but the next morning i was playing cod, and it froze. so i restarted and it was just black screen. I had to take the cmos battery out and redo all my settings. but Why was i stable at 1340fsb and a 335 fsb wall and then it jsut becaome unstable for no reason??? o well i guess ill stay at 1200fsb .maybe upgrade in the future to a better chip. .

Also, The P5n-e Refused to overclock my ram with any of the new bios 1201+. i cna only oc my c4 dhx on the 1201 bios. also i get really loud cliking noises when playing games on any of the new bios. so im sticking with 1201 .. My sound card is SB audigy se.


----------



## marsey99

how hot does your gpu make your nb when your gaimg?

@shad

if you have the +100mv option enabled its adding 0.1v to your vcore so your 1.38v is really 1.48v then you get vrop and vdroop.


----------



## eminded1

well i bought a new e6300 from newegg, its 2.80 1066mhz stock, i got it clocked at 3.80ghz 1900FSB on my p5n-e sli, but my ram will only run at stock 800 4,4,4,12,22, 2.1vram, if i put it at 950, and 555,12, or 15, or 18, , 22 it gets blue screen everytime i get to my desktop. i may try to go back to 1301 werei was running, this chip. but it seems liek the newr verson of the bios 1406 uses less voltage for the cpu.


----------



## skyw

Hi,

Im new here









You're quite an educated bunch







wonder if you guys could help me...

http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...el=P5N-E%20SLI

Quote:



hey









So I used to have 2 x 1Gb Team Elite DDR2 800 modules...
link: http://www.memoryc.com/products/desc...kit/index.html

And recently i bought another 2 to match these.
They are the same except that CPU-Z reports the one sets date of production is about 6months after the other.

This is a stock system, no overclocking at all.

I tried the sets each in memtest separately, and no errors after a night of testing each, in different slots, so the modules and the mobo slots are fine.

So i tried putting all of them in together , with the old set in the black slots and the new set in the yellow slots. Set the timings manually to 5-5-5-15, Logged on to windows x64, and got a blue screen. Did memtest and it froze sometimes, and gave errors when it didnt freeze. Set timings to 5-5-5-18, same problem. With settings on auto, timings would go down to 5-5-5-31 :/ and still the same error would occur.

They are 1.8V modules, i tried increasing this in the bios to 1.920V, same blue screening and memtest errors, with timings even at 5-5-5-31 (auto)

I read increasing NB voltage as well will help , but my NB is very hot (cant keep finger on it even) at stock :/, so dont think this would be a wise option. Though i did try it for a few mins, and did memtest test 5 which is where the errors were all occuring, and still there were problems.

What other options do i have now :/
I read that lowering the timings may help,
also that lowering the speed to like 667 may help,

Which of these are suggested? Which would give better speed?
Lastly, if one is suggested, can you please help me out with what settings to use respectively.

Thanks for reading!


----------



## gumdrops

Hi, I'm new to overclocking and I've been trying to get my Q6600 to a stable 3ghz for the past few hours. I've mainly been following this post,

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

I've followed mostly everything there; downgrading my bios version to 0608, setting vcore voltage to 1.31875, unlinked 1:1 fsb/ram ratio at 1333:667, as well as doing the pencil mod. The only difference are my ram timings and ram voltage, where I'm using 4x1gb ddr2 800 dual kits, set to 4-4-4-12-2t at 2.1v as recommended by the ram manufacturer.

I'm using Windows XP SP3 32-bit, which I can start, but after about an hour or so, it will automatically reboot. I'm not sure what my next course of action should be. My cpu temps never rise above 40-45c. Do I slowly increase vcore voltage? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gumdrops*


Hi, I'm new to overclocking and I've been trying to get my Q6600 to a stable 3ghz for the past few hours. I've mainly been following this post,

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...ml#post3489821

I've followed mostly everything there; downgrading my bios version to 0608, setting vcore voltage to 1.31875, unlinked 1:1 fsb/ram ratio at 1333:667, as well as doing the pencil mod. The only difference are my ram timings and ram voltage, where I'm using 4x1gb ddr2 800 dual kits, set to 4-4-4-12-2t at 2.1v as recommended by the ram manufacturer.

I'm using Windows XP SP3 32-bit, which I can start, but after about an hour or so, it will automatically reboot. I'm not sure what my next course of action should be. My cpu temps never rise above 40-45c. Do I slowly increase vcore voltage? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Welcome to OCN!! Please fill in your system specs by using the "User CP" link at the top of the page. That will be a great start.

There are a few things I can help with from what you have noted. It is not recommended to OC with 4 DIMMs as it puts additional stress on the NB. Have you stress tested your OC with OCCT, LinX, Prime95, or any other recommended stress program? If so, what were your max load temps and how long did the various tests run? If you haven't done any of these tests, you may have an unstable OC.


----------



## gumdrops

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aardobard*


Welcome to OCN!! Please fill in your system specs by using the "User CP" link at the top of the page. That will be a great start.

There are a few things I can help with from what you have noted. It is not recommended to OC with 4 DIMMs as it puts additional stress on the NB. Have you stress tested your OC with OCCT, LinX, Prime95, or any other recommended stress program? If so, what were your max load temps and how long did the various tests run? If you haven't done any of these tests, you may have an unstable OC.


Thanks for the reply! Filled in system specs.

Yeah, I've had a ton of trouble getting 4x1gb to not restart during bootup or bluescreening. Had to keep swapping the ram around until one configuration seemed to have worked.

I've actually increased vcore voltage by 2 steps (up to 1.33 something) and left Prime95 running overnight on blend option (left it on default of 4 torture test threads) and have not had any errors for 9 hours. I watched core temps for the first couple of hours, where they were at 45-47c, and only went above 50 during FFT tests. I stopped Prime95 after that and have just been surfing/gaming for the past few hours and had no problems.

Edit: While typing this, computer froze while gaming







I think it might be my memory as the 2 pairs of dual channels aren't identical, but they have the same timing and speed, so I thought it would be ok. I'm just guessing here, don't have any knowledge or experience. One of the sticks seems to have a different timing/voltage than the others, is this something I should be worried about?


----------



## Aardobard

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gumdrops*


Thanks for the reply! Filled in system specs.

Yeah, I've had a ton of trouble getting 4x1gb to not restart during bootup or bluescreening. Had to keep swapping the ram around until one configuration seemed to have worked.

I've actually increased vcore voltage by 2 steps (up to 1.33 something) and left Prime95 running overnight on blend option (left it on default of 4 torture test threads) and have not had any errors for 9 hours. I watched core temps for the first couple of hours, where they were at 45-47c, and only went above 50 during FFT tests. I stopped Prime95 after that and have just been surfing/gaming for the past few hours and had no problems.

Edit: While typing this, computer froze while gaming







I think it might be my memory as the 2 pairs of dual channels aren't identical, but they have the same timing and speed, so I thought it would be ok. I'm just guessing here, don't have any knowledge or experience. One of the sticks seems to have a different timing/voltage than the others, is this something I should be worried about?


For Prime 95, I would recommend the small FFT test as opposed to the blend. The small FFT will stress the CPU where the blend adds stress to the RAM also. We want to isolate, as much as possible, where the trouble is.

The best CPU stress test I know of is LinX. There is no tester I've seen that will put more CPU stress on your rig. With this, you will know what your max load temps are. Plus it doesn't take but a few minutes. =)

If that passes, the next step would be to test the RAM with MEMTEST or a variant. I use a Ubuntu install disk for this. The voltage reported by CPU-Z is troubling, but could be an error. If you haven't done so already, manually set all of your voltages as opposed to leaving them on [AUTO].


----------



## eminded1

ib had this boad for about a year, and say always manually set ram timings, im acually Ocing 4x1gb corsiar c4dhx to 1000mhz 5,5,5,12,2t, 2.1V they run flawlessly iv never tried jsut to have 2 sticks in there, never had the need to, im on 1301 bios, on 1406 the latest one, i cant OC ANY ram what soever, so if ur in a ditch, upgrade or downgrade the bios n test it. jsut make sute your spu supports the bios u downgrade to. but i cannot oc my ram with 1401+ only 1301 or 1201


----------



## LTC

Hi,

Last night, I was up playing BF2, after I closed the game, my screen turning black, and I couldn't do anything, as it was completely stuck (clock on my G15 was stuck too) So I turned it of the brutal way (by holding in the power button) and turned it on again, I booted in to Windows again, but immediately it became stuck again, and the screen was black, so I turned it off again, and the same thing happened again, but I was to tired to try to fix it, so I went to bed.. Now this morning when I tried to turn it on, it didn't even show the BIOS, it just made 1 long beep and 3 short beeps, IÃ¸ve searched for the problem, but there are different answers, some say its the video card, so I took my video card out, cleaned it, and blew out any dust in it, and tried to reseat it, but still the same problem... Then there was a site saying that it could be bad RAM, so I took one stick out and tried to boot with only one stick, I also swapped the sticks around, but still the same problem... I tried unplugging everything and turn it on with only the necessary hardware plugged in (RAM, GPU, CPU, PSU) but still the samme problem I also tried resetting CMOS, but still the same

Anything I can do? And I really wanna be sure that its precisely my GPU or RAM that is the problem if I'm going to buy a new GPU or set of RAM, because I'm rather low on cash at the moment

EDIT: Now it makes 3 short beeps about 5 sec after the first beeps

Regards
Jacob


----------



## willmarth2

Does a power supply have to be ATX for this MB? I am needing a good inexpensive PS to SLI 8800 GTS 640mb cards.


----------



## thunder12

Anyone struggling to get above 2.8ghz qith q6600 should update their bios to the latest version. Asus have tried their best to accomodate with the latest quad cores. The P5N-e may not be the best board to overclock a quad on, however you can now get 3.4ghz stable or so some people claimed in this thread a while ago:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...600-p5n-e.html

Here is me stable at 3.0ghz:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=662816


----------



## mavizaman

with asus aibooster program,
2.8ghz(310mhz) stable standart voltage(1.275vid) 
[email protected] 2gb ram
bios:1201


----------



## eminded1

i always put the settings in manually, never have this board on auto .. also i cant oc my ram in the new bios only 1201 or 1301, my ram is c4 dhx corsair 4x1GB

I am looking in to the core I3 with gigabye board, i heard those are a really nice upgrade over dualcores, plus its a new socket , i think i am at the boards max right now really no need for any upgrades till i geta new board.


----------



## eggrolls

Anyone know where I can enable/disable AHCI on this board?


----------



## TheFinalCard

Hey, guys recently I got a new q6600 for my Asus P5N-E SLi motherboard since the old one was supposedly fried due to using nForce. I got the new one in and im looking into overclocking it but when I use either Manual or AI Overclocking in Jumpfree Configuration it doesn't seem to do any overclocking.

I set whatever I can with both types of configuration it seems to not work.
I'd appreciate it. I've had some experience with overclocking, but not that much to figure out what this problem is.

Here's my setup.

Asus P5N-E SLi
2x geforce 8800 gtx
2x 2gb patriot 6400 Viper series
2x 2gb Tranciense memory
q6600 Quad core @ 2.4 GHz
Windows Vista Ultimate x64
Zalman Heatsink

If there is any chance of help with my problem please feel free to respond.
I'll provide as much information

Thanks


----------



## marsey99

1st thing you want to do is upgrade the cooling on the board, either with a fan on the nb or a new heatsink.

tbh i dont think you will get much of an overclokc from it, your running different types of ram and you have all 4 slots full which makes it hard, then you have 2 of the hotter running cards in both pci e slots, which just makes things harder.

the board only has 3 phase power regs which isnt enought to supply stable juice to a quad once you start to up the vcore either.

most people who did well with this board and a q66 used the 0608 bios revision, they had the ram unlinked but manually set it so it was 1:1 (half the qdr fsb) and they enabled the +100mv option to use the 3rd power reg but remmember it adds 0.1v to your vcore so if you want 1.4vcore you select 1.3vcore and add the 100mv.

really tho m8, if i was you i would try and sell that board and get somthing with better cooling and more power regs for the cpu as i cant see you getting more than 3ghz out of it.


----------



## kILLDR3n

I have to replace this board because it won't take a 5850. No joke the BIOS is not up to it and the newest BIOS was supposed to fix this issue but didn't.


----------



## eminded1

bios 1301 is good for the q6600,anyway i run a high and dual core on my p5n-e sli. and i use the 100mv option but i have my bios set at 1.32 and i have done the pencil mod so windws idles at 1.44 and loads under linx at 1.42. it stays at 1.44 but i really only need like 1.39 for my chip to be stable at the speed it at not. F>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>**kk you VDROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOP
so anyway im lookings into a new board that has VCC control


----------



## marsey99

p45 ud3p/r m8, you wont look back


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


bios 1301 is good for the q6600,anyway i run a high and dual core on my p5n-e sli. and i use the 100mv option but i have my bios set at 1.32 and i have done the pencil mod so windws idles at 1.44 and loads under linx at 1.42. it stays at 1.44 but i really only need like 1.39 for my chip to be stable at the speed it at not. F>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>**kk you VDROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOP
so anyway im lookings into a new board that has VCC control


Did you use a 45nm e6300 or 65 nm ?? I Had a 65nm e6300 and was only able to get 3.15ghz.

... and by the way.. the ud3p is a great board, i will be getting one in near future.


----------



## eminded1

im using the 45nm e6300, im currently stable at 3.8ghz 1.41 vcore. miniumum. 1.46 maximum. i did dropp mod it but over time it wears away.
@ africandavid, how did u vdroop mod it howd the results go, does it loose its mod over time.,? how long have you had it vdroop moded and stable?


----------



## Zippit

I'm reviving me P5N-e to be in a HTPC build... I'll post pics when its done,


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eminded1*


im using the 45nm e6300, im currently stable at 3.8ghz 1.41 vcore. miniumum. 1.46 maximum. i did dropp mod it but over time it wears away.
@ africandavid, how did u vdroop mod it howd the results go, does it loose its mod over time.,? how long have you had it vdroop moded and stable?


It has been about a year since I did the pencil mod, I used 2b pencil... it's harder than the regular HB pencil... wich did u use ?? I have not yet needed to do it again. My HSF fan blows onto it aswell, doesn't seem to wear it down. My vcore varies by 0.01 between max load and idle. Has been like this for a year.


----------



## eminded1

hmm i jsut redid my droop mod now i get .01 droop







lets see how long it lasts... i did that once before. took the computer on a trip and when i got back it failed.
well i used a no2 pencil looks like a bowling pencil. i just wrote hard back and forth all over the chip and blew off all the xcess pencil dust. i idle at 1.42 and load at 1.42 with linx. somteims it drops to 1.41 but i can live with that. my chip only need 1.39 so i might take it down
also sometimes my voltage goes up to 1.44 only in hwmoniter. im not worried about it.

here is a pic of it,


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zippit*


I'm reviving me P5N-e to be in a HTPC build... I'll post pics when its done,


oh nice, ill be curious to see what your set up is made of. I'm building one too









im still looking for a case, I want a case that resembles the look of a receiver so it can match with the rest of my HT gear. Still not sure on what to get, looking for something cheap though.


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell*


oh nice, ill be curious to see what your set up is made of. I'm building one too









im still looking for a case, I want a case that resembles the look of a receiver so it can match with the rest of my HT gear. Still not sure on what to get, looking for something cheap though.


Lol.... mines going to be overkill...

9800GT SLI, E5300, OCZ Platinum 4Gb.

I'm getting a coolermaster Elite 360 case because its dirt cheap, small and fits fullsize ATX motherboards.

If you want something more fancy you should look into the Antec Remote's.


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
Lol.... mines going to be overkill...

9800GT SLI, E5300, OCZ Platinum 4Gb.

I'm getting a coolermaster Elite 360 case because its dirt cheap, small and fits fullsize ATX motherboards.

If you want something more fancy you should look into the Antec Remote's.

couldn't find an Antec remote case that would fit a full size ATX motherboard. So the Elite 360 will do







cheap price is the key









I'll be using my previous xfx sli motherboard in there nothing fancy, and a GT210, should handle all HD stuff. I think i'll stick with the E5200, with 2 GB OCZ SLI ram.


----------



## ProdyG

Hi,
I have a P5N-E SLI board, and an E6400 CPU. With 0901 bios the overclocking was perfect (3,2Ghz). But last week I had to buy new rams (2x2GB Kingmax 1066mhz).
And I wasn't not able to boot with the new rams at all. I had to upgrade the bios to 1406(newest bios). This is the only bios that my rams work with. So I must use this bios.
But now I'm not able to overclock at all. 10% overclock doesn't work either.
What should I set up correctly in this new bios? Any suggestions?


----------



## LunchboxDDS

Do you not have access to the old RAM anymore? Some RAM is picky as to what frequency, timings, voltage you have it set at. Doing the flat % overclock usually doesn't work too well. You have to manually adjust all the settings.


----------



## ProdyG

I've tried every type of manual setups as well, but in vain.....


----------



## africandavid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ProdyG* 
I've tried every type of manual setups as well, but in vain.....

What colour slots did you install the ram in? Make sure it is the black slots, if it is try the red just in case... you never know with this board.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys, long time since I posted.








I'm looking at upgrading to Windows 7, so checking on drivers etc for all my hardware.
I can't find drivers for this mobo on the Asus site. All they have is Vista 64-bit and it's beta. D:

Where can I find drivers?

*edit*

Found a website. Opendrivers
Seems good, and they have Windows 7 chipset drivers for me!


----------



## africandavid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hey guys, long time since I posted.








I'm looking at upgrading to Windows 7, so checking on drivers etc for all my hardware.
I can't find drivers for this mobo on the Asus site. All they have is Vista 64-bit and it's beta. D:

Where can I find drivers?

*edit*

Found a website. Opendrivers
Seems good, and they have Windows 7 chipset drivers for me!










Nice to see another Saffer on the forum. How are things in Gauteng?
Good luck with the new install...

Cheers


----------



## ProdyG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *africandavid*


What colour slots did you install the ram in? Make sure it is the black slots, if it is try the red just in case... you never know with this board.


The rams are in the right slots. I did some investigation today. The CPU tuning is ok (50% tuning), I only have problem with rams. I have 1066mhz rams, but they can only work on 800mhz. I've tried to add plus voltage, linked, unlinked mode but no solution.....
the computer doesn't boot when the rams run on 1066mhz.


----------



## marsey99

mine would never stay stable above ddr1000 even tho it would post @1100?????


----------



## eminded1

i ram mine at 1000mhz fora 2 years. works fine.


----------



## Twau

Hi,

Right now I have 2gb memory.

Corsair TWIN2X PC6400 DDR2 2GB KIT CL5 Kit w/2x 1GB XMS2-6400 dimm's, CL5-5-5-18, 800MHz

I want to upgrade. Shall I buy one more package of the above and use 4sticks with 1gb?

Or shall I buy Corsair TWIN2X PC6400 DDR2 4GB KIT CL5 Kit w/2x 2GB XMS2-6400 dimm's, CL5-5-5-18, 800MHz

And use 6gb, 2x2gb and 2x1gb?

Please advice!

Best Regards


----------



## Christiaan

2x2GB + 2x1GB should work. I'm using 2x1GB + 2x512MB atm without issue.


----------



## SHREDDER383

have any of you ever had any issues with the pci slots not working, the one my soundblaster is in works fine but the one i hve my killer nic in with some times not work more when i cold start the pc like in the morning, i rma'd the nic thinking that was it but i was wrong, im going to try and swap card around and see if that helps but i thought ide ask first, thanks in advance


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys. Do the Q8xxx and Q9xxx CPU's work on this board? I checked the CPU support list, only see the Q6xxx series, but I saw this post and he is running a Q9400. Also came across this thread stating they do work.

Just want to confirm before I buy a quad.


----------



## Zippit

My board died. May she rest in peace.

My PCI-e Slot broke... it gave a no video error.


----------



## Christiaan

Odd thing. I've had this OC for just a bit over 2 years, I ran Orthos 2 days ago and it gave a error after a few hours.







When I did the OC when I got this chip it was 24 hour Orthos stable.
Voltage in BIOS was 1.175v, got it up to 1.2v so far. To get it stable again.

Is my chip on the frits or is it my mobo that's starting to go?


----------



## mires

Hi all! I'm having some problems with this board, nothing major but they are still annoying the heck out of me.

First of all, my computer can't start from a restart anymore. It doesn't matter whether I press the reset-button in the case or try to restart Windows, the result is always the same; the monitor signals turn off and the computer stays on but nothing happens. It never beeps and it does not even show the POST-messages. Starts just fine every single time though when I start it by pressing the power-switch... To recover from a restart I either have to keep the power-switch button pressed for a few seconds so that the power turns off or switch off the PSU. I'm running the newest BIOS (1403) but I had the same problem with BIOS revision 1001 too.

I'm running at stock settings.
CPU: Q6600
RAM: 2*1gb Kingston PC2-5300 (slots 1&2) and 2*1gb Corsair PC2-6400 (slots 3&4), running in dual-channel mode
Graphics: Nvidia 8800 GTS 512mb

Another annoying thing is that I tried setting the AI overclock to 10% but it didn't do jack; BIOS said 2,63Ghz on startup but CPU-z showed the cores to be running at 2,4Ghz. I then disabled the AI overclock but BIOS *still* shows the CPU's to be at 2,63Ghz during POST.

Any ideas?


----------



## mires

A little update: 
I cleared the CMOS and re-flashed the bios (again with the newest revision) and my system seems to reboot normally now so at least that issue is solved







Oh and before the re-flashing of the BIOS my CPU was running at higher than normal voltages and it's idle temp had gone up by about 10 degrees celsius, this seemed to be the only thing that the AI overclock did. Higher voltage, no speed gains. I don't think I'll be touching the AI overclock feature again.

I also noticed that the Intel Speedstep doesn't seem to be doing anything. I have it enabled now but my Q6600 is running at a steady 2,4Ghz. Is this a common problem? Not that it bothers me that much.

Oh and I meant BIOS version 1406 even though I said 1403 in my last post







.


----------



## Christiaan

Hey guys. Dropped my E2140 for a Q6600. Updated BIOS to 1406. Problem now is. I can't OC the CPU at all. Everytime I set the FSB to anything over stock, it sets itself back to auto.

Also, on the E2140 I had my RAM @ 730MHz with timings 4:4:4:9:1T, using the same settings now, it reverts to it's defaults now everytime of 5:5:5:15:1T.

What could be the problem?


----------



## Zippit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hey guys. Dropped my E2140 for a Q6600. Updated BIOS to 1406. Problem now is. I can't OC the CPU at all. Everytime I set the FSB to anything over stock, it sets itself back to auto.

Also, on the E2140 I had my RAM @ 730MHz with timings 4:4:4:9:1T, using the same settings now, it reverts to it's defaults now everytime of 5:5:5:15:1T.

What could be the problem?










I had this problem... I reflashed my BIOS and I was good to go!


----------



## Christiaan

Thanks for that suggestion Zippit.
I tried that a few times. Going between 1403 and 1406 to no avail.

On my last flash of 1403, I unplugged the PC and pulled out the battery. Left it like that for a few minutes. Put the battery back in and plugged it back in. Set everything up again in BIOS and it's working now... so leaving it at BIOS 1403.









Busy clocking up, but I have major vdroop (up to 0.064v), will have to try the pencil mod soon.

*edit*
Vdroop is amazing now. It's like... none. lol!
I'm still at stock, but I put it on 1.2v and it's showing 1.232v idle and it's rock solid under load. I just need new thermal paste, I found out my AS5 tube was empty when I put the chip in and tried to squeeze some out. Now I have fail zalman paste that came with my cooler on. Almost 60 degrees under load.


----------



## No1Joker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Hey guys. Dropped my E2140 for a Q6600. Updated BIOS to 1406. Problem now is. I can't OC the CPU at all. Everytime I set the FSB to anything over stock, it sets itself back to auto.

Also, on the E2140 I had my RAM @ 730MHz with timings 4:4:4:9:1T, using the same settings now, it reverts to it's defaults now everytime of 5:5:5:15:1T.

What could be the problem?










I see you found the solution, trust me to be a day late...

Clearing the CMOS is the only way i have found to have BIOS keep the settings if it keeps getting reset to default.

I am slowly pushing my machine higher again. Looking to get to mid 3Ghz.


----------



## Christiaan

I would love to get 3GHz on this quad, I see this board is very finicky with quads.








I ran 2.7GHz, with 1200FSB (300). I ran 3 hours Orthos, seemed stable. Restart PC and it kept crashing while loading windows. Siiigh.

For now, keeping it at stock till I get new thermal paste and lap the CPU. Then temps should be good to go.

You shouldn't have a problem getting that E6600 to 3GHz. Had my E2140 @ 2.92GHz @ 1.3v without the vdroop mod.









*edit*
I removed the vdroop mod with my finger (which I have done about 3 times before while testing the difference in voltages to different number of strokes with the pencil) and tried to OC from there. Didn't have much better luck. Got between 2.5GHz to 2.7GHz. After my last OC I think something broke. It did the thing where you can't overclock anymore. BIOS goes to auto everytime. So I do what I did before. I switch it off, pull out the battery and wait. Let it clear. Put it all back. Boot up.

Error message. It says there is something wrong with my temps or voltages. Go into BIOS. Now apparently my CPU is running @ 128 degrees celsius, I'm pumping 4v through my cpu and my CPU/GPU fans are running at 2400, (in fact running at 1300+-). Also PSU voltages are way off. 5v rail shows as 6.85v and 12v shows as 16.32v, all in red. Load settings from profile, restart, same thing.

Booted into Windows, Speedfan shows my temp fine, fan speed is wrong, volts is also wrong. CPU-Z also reporting wrong voltage (1.313v, though it's far closer to the true value. 1.25v)

Switched off PC. Let it cool down. Booted back up, same. Reset BIOS to default settings, same. Updated BIOS from 1403 to 1406, same.

I don't have any pics for the BIOS, as I misplaced my bluetooth device for my phone.







However, I'll post a screenshot of Speedfan and CPU-Z.










Help?









*edit2*
Nevermind the above edit. I unplugged the PC, pulled out the battery and let it sit for a while, since that's what caused it to "break" in the first place. Put everything back on and it's working now. Random is as random does.


----------



## Galcobar

Has anyone tried hooking a solid state drive up to the P5N-E?

I find myself thinking about picking up an SSD, but have concerns over compatibility with the 650i chipset and the (apparent) lack of AHCI. Thumping around the net I've found workarounds for Intel SSDs, where you have to switch drivers to enable TRIM and then switch back to get the best performance. Haven't really found any discussion regarding non-Intel SSDs (particularly Indilinx Barefoot-based drives) and the 650i chipset.


----------



## Christiaan

Must say I am disappointed in how this board handles my Q6600. Others have gotten well over 3GHz, I struggle to get anything stable near/past 2.7GHz. So far I have 2655MHz @ 295FSB(1180) @ 1.2v (1.232v with pencil mod). It's 8 hours Orthos stable. Seems that near and over 300FSB(1200) it's very unstable. No matter what voltage I pump though the NB or CPU.

I was running @ 2.7GHz seemingly stable, as I ran Orthos for about an hour. Restart PC and I bluescreened again on the Windows loading screen like in my previous post. I tried varies FSB settings up to 375FSB(1500). Tried a lowered CPU multi to get the CPU out of the way as the problem. Every setting over 300FSB bluescreens at some point while Windows loads. I tried 1:1 ratio FSB/RAM, I tried unlinked with RAM at stock speed, I tried max voltage through the FSB. Even 1.4v through the CPU with the lowered multi and normal multi.

/sad panda

I will keep trying, but it seems I am not destined to have a fast quad core.


----------



## Zippit

This board sucks with quads.

It did great with my E8400.


----------



## Christiaan

Ah well. Even at 2655MHz, it feels faster than my E2140 at 2920MHz. Must be the upgrade from 1MB cache to 2x4MB cache.


----------



## decompose

iv never really posted on here but thanks to the first 300 pages or so i managed to overclock my e6420 to 3.4mhz i can push it further but i use it for rendering and i really dont wana get high load temps its been workin now for over a yer and half no problems not even when i switched to windows 7. ...anyways i wanted to ask you guys wat 2 motherboard and quad procesor comb to get for my next build. for extreme oc..ivevread othger threads but ive got the feeling you guys got your sh#@t straight and know wats up.


----------



## sha

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Must say I am disappointed in how this board handles my Q6600. Others have gotten well over 3GHz, I struggle to get anything stable near/past 2.7GHz. So far I have 2655MHz @ 295FSB(1180) @ 1.2v (1.232v with pencil mod). It's 8 hours Orthos stable. Seems that near and over 300FSB(1200) it's very unstable. No matter what voltage I pump though the NB or CPU.

I was running @ 2.7GHz seemingly stable, as I ran Orthos for about an hour. Restart PC and I bluescreened again on the Windows loading screen like in my previous post. I tried varies FSB settings up to 375FSB(1500). Tried a lowered CPU multi to get the CPU out of the way as the problem. Every setting over 300FSB bluescreens at some point while Windows loads. I tried 1:1 ratio FSB/RAM, I tried unlinked with RAM at stock speed, I tried max voltage through the FSB. Even 1.4v through the CPU with the lowered multi and normal multi.

/sad panda

I will keep trying, but it seems I am not destined to have a fast quad core.









Throw that board away, break it, crush it, burn it, that board gave me nothing but headaches with the q6600, get the p5n-D board very stable and under 100 bucks and you can hit 3.60ghz (water cooled) stable 24/7 with it.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sha* 
Throw that board away, break it, crush it, burn it, that board gave me nothing but headaches with the q6600, get the p5n-D board very stable and under 100 bucks and you can hit 3.60ghz (water cooled) stable 24/7 with it.

I feel like throwing it away, breaking it, crushing it, burning it!









I'm using the OC I mentioned earlier. 2665MHz. I know it's not amazing, but any higher and I start running into issues.

Between 295FSB (1180) and all the way up to 380FSB (1520) it either a) doesn't boot, b) boots, but hangs on the BIOS screen, c) hangs when loading Windows, d) loads Windows, passes Orthos/Prime95 with flying colours, but as soon as I run a game it freaks out.

I tried lowering the multi to 6 to remove the CPU as the culprit, but It's definitely the FSB.

So I'm stopping at this OC. I'd love to get a awesome motherboard that overclocks like a beast, but it's not worth it for an extra 800MHz-1GHz.


----------



## eggrolls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Galcobar* 
Has anyone tried hooking a solid state drive up to the P5N-E?

I find myself thinking about picking up an SSD, but have concerns over compatibility with the 650i chipset and the (apparent) lack of AHCI. Thumping around the net I've found workarounds for Intel SSDs, where you have to switch drivers to enable TRIM and then switch back to get the best performance. Haven't really found any discussion regarding non-Intel SSDs (particularly Indilinx Barefoot-based drives) and the 650i chipset.

I'm using an OCZ Agility on this board, which uses the Barefoot controller. Win 7 automatically installed the Nvidia drivers, but I removed them and chose the MS IDE driver instead. After two months, I don't see any decrease in performance, in real-world or in benchmarks, so I assume TRIM is working.


----------



## linkin93

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I had this problem... I reflashed my BIOS and I was good to go!

You don't need to reflash it, all you have to do reset the CMOS, I had this problem after setting my cpu back to stock to check the VID. After i took out the battery and pushed the power button a few times (power unplugged) it worked again.


----------



## sparkyork

hi guys,

ive just upgraded from a p4 setup to a p5ne, having a job getting to boot but i think thats to do with not having the right ram. tried using some corsair 2gb modules to no avail, gonna try and get 8 gb in it, have there been any succesfull 8gb installs on this board?
the board came with a q9300 which ive been told ran smoothly in windows 7 of the guy i bought it off, but until i get past the ram issue then i dont know
this board seems very picky about what ram it likes!

im just off out to take my ram back that dont work and see if they have anymore, any advise on ram etc greatly appreciated

ps i dont really wanna change the board as ive got it or a very competative price with the cpu etc

thanks

rich


----------



## eggrolls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sparkyork* 
hi guys,

ive just upgraded from a p4 setup to a p5ne, having a job getting to boot but i think thats to do with not having the right ram. tried using some corsair 2gb modules to no avail, gonna try and get 8 gb in it, have there been any succesfull 8gb installs on this board?
the board came with a q9300 which ive been told ran smoothly in windows 7 of the guy i bought it off, but until i get past the ram issue then i dont know
this board seems very picky about what ram it likes!

im just off out to take my ram back that dont work and see if they have anymore, any advise on ram etc greatly appreciated

ps i dont really wanna change the board as ive got it or a very competative price with the cpu etc

thanks

rich

Try loosening up the RAM timings or lower the speed a little bit. If you want new RAM sticks, check out the qualified vendor list on their website:

http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us


----------



## sparkyork

Thanks for replying. I checked the qvl
but seems pretty out of date, should it be possible to get most ram going with the right setting or is this board really that fussy?
I'm after installing 2gb modules, hopefully amounting to 8 gb anyone know of a particular type that works?
I'm unsure whether the 9300 CPU will work or not to as it isn't on the support list but the guy I bought it off says it works fine, how can this be as someone told me the CPu won't work due to vrm and only 3 phases?


----------



## sparkyork

ive just found some nanya 2gb modules for Â£30 each, if i got 4 of these all though they are ddr2 667 would i be able to clock these to 800 anyway?
the saved pennies could go for a pair of 8800gt's in sli aswell

any thoughts comments?

cheers

rich


----------



## dhv217

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sparkyork* 
ive just found some nanya 2gb modules for Â£30 each, if i got 4 of these all though they are ddr2 667 would i be able to clock these to 800 anyway?
the saved pennies could go for a pair of 8800gt's in sli aswell

any thoughts comments?

cheers

rich

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. I've reached the final page. Funny I started reading this thread and it was 938 pages or so and then grew by a few, surprisingly it's still going. Well now that I'm done, let me share some of what I noticed and learned from the previous 940 pages.

The 2GB ram sticks you mention, you should look up what the *stock voltage and timings* are for those sticks. Set the voltage for the memory sticks in BIOS and set the ram memory timings also. As mentioned many times in this thread if you're going to overclock a computer you need to make sure you can at least run the components at stock speeds to rule out faulty / defective parts. If you're going to run your computer with this board period you're going to want to start by setting the appropriate settings.

This board is highly unstable without proper power to the memory and proper memory timings. Setting the memory timings wrong or not giving them sufficient voltage is by far the biggest reason for instability I noticed. I would also suggest you set your NorthBridge voltage to 1.39 for starters to compensate if you're going to have all 4 memory slots filled.

As for SLI, you're going to want a case with proper cooling, a dual card setup will generate added heat over the Southbridge. You'll want a passive low profile heatsink or an active low profile heatsink. Page 1 lists all heatsinks proven by users in this thread to work in both sli and non-sli format. You'll need proper cooling if you want a smooth running Sli machine.


----------



## Dare978devil

Hi,

Before I start attempting an overclock, I would like some help stabilizing my current SLI rig. I have an ASUS P5N-E SLI with a BIOS showing in sys info as 0803 26/12/2007. I have been running this board for about 2 years with a single EVGA 8800 GTS 320 MBs with no stability issues. Recently, I just purchased a second identical nvidia board to try out SLI. For the most part, it works well, but it is not perfectly stable.

Playing Max Payne 2 for instance, it will freeze with an error in the Event Viewer; Source : nv, Event ID 14, "Unknown error on CMDre". If I then reboot XP, I can play Max Payne 2 for the next 2 hours without any problems. After lots of google research, I am pretty sure that I need to bump up the PCI-E voltage by .1. However, I am not sure how to do that. I can see the settings for vcore, memory, NB core, and vcore offset voltage. The first 3 are set to AUTO, and the offset voltage is now set to +100 mv. Since making this change, I have not seen the unknown error, although I only made the change yesterday. We'll see what happens.

Also, I found via the Nvidia performance tool that the clock settings on my 2 EVGA cards are not identical. The one I have been running for 2 years is set to :

Core clock : 576
Memory clock : 850
Shader clock : 1350

The new board (purchased on eBay) is set lower :

Core Clock : 513
Memory clock : 792
Shader clock : 1188

So I created a Profile in the Nvidia device settings, and told it to launch when Max Payne 2 is launched. According to the Nvidia documentation, it can make the changes on the fly and have the second board run at the identical settings as the first board. In theory, this is being applied although I am not sure how to test for it. I know this action did not solve the problem since I have had the Unknown Error since I started using the profile but maybe in conjunction with the +100 mv listed above....

I also applied the 197.13 drivers, and updated to the 15.45 nForce package.

My system :
Asus P5N-E SLI
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.133 MHz 6420 (with 4 MB L2 cache)
2 x EVGA 8800 GTS 320 MBs
4 GB OCZ PC6400 RAM
no other PCI card is installed
XP SP3

Thanks,
BM.


----------



## africandavid

Anybody had any luck getting any OC on any ram with a newer bios?


----------



## sparkyork

I need some ram n quick.
I wish I had time to read all the pages. What I've read so far has beeen very helpful,
am I better off getting 4gb of ram thati can clock too 1066 maybe of 8 gb that I can clock to maybe 800 depending on stock settings etc
I know the system I'm building is a few years old but if I've got two cards in sli then
maybe I won't need 8gb of rAm.
What would you guys recommend?
Cheers


----------



## sparkyork

Quote:


Originally Posted by *africandavid* 
Anybody had any luck getting any OC on any ram with a newer bios?

I'm running 1404 is that considered a good bios I know there is a 1406 but is that more for amd's


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sparkyork* 
I'm running 1404 is that considered a good bios I know there is a 1406 but is that more for amd's

How would you even fit an AMD in this motherboard?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sparkyork*


I need some ram n quick. 
I wish I had time to read all the pages. What I've read so far has beeen very helpful,
am I better off getting 4gb of ram thati can clock too 1066 maybe of 8 gb that I can clock to maybe 800 depending on stock settings etc 
I know the system I'm building is a few years old but if I've got two cards in sli then
maybe I won't need 8gb of rAm.
What would you guys recommend?
Cheers


If you mean to SLI your x1950, it won't work. That's a ATi card and you need a Crossfire motherboard for it. SLI is for NVidia cards.


----------



## sparkyork

No mate that's me old card for me old board.
Will be nvidia cards, I'm sure I seen on the asus site that the bios said something about and? 
Just bought some corsair one gig stick x 2 
gonna try and get the board going with me p4 in there then try this q9300


----------



## t3mpo

I've had this great board (p5n-e sli) for about 2 years now and got exited when I achived 3.4 on my Q6600. Right now im experiencing black screen crashes followed by a sound loop while gaming.

My specs are:

p5n-e Sli (1301) 1.3v
Q6600 @ 3.4 Ghz 1.45v
Gskill 800mghz @ 380
Corsair tx750w psu
Coolermaster v8 hea tsink
2 EVGA 9600 gt sli

temps
cpu 48 idle 64 load

mb 40 idle 45 load

If you have any input of what would solve it, it would be greatly apreciated.

Any thoughts on the p5n-d?


----------



## dhv217

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sparkyork* 
No mate that's me old card for me old board.
Will be nvidia cards, I'm sure I seen on the asus site that the bios said something about and?
Just bought some corsair one gig stick x 2
gonna try and get the board going with me p4 in there then try this q9300

_P5N-E SLI BIOS 1406
Fix it takes long time to show up on screen with certain AMD graphic card when booting up the system._

It's a fix for having to wait to up 20 seconds for bios post splash screen and even longer for the windows logon screen. People that bought the Ati 5850 in particular among some of the others from that class had this problem. If you're not going to use an Ati video card you don't necessarily need it.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *t3mpo*


I've had this great board (p5n-e sli) for about 2 years now and got exited when I achived 3.4 on my Q6600. Right now im experiencing black screen crashes followed by a sound loop while gaming.

My specs are:

p5n-e Sli (1301) 1.3v
Q6600 @ 3.4 Ghz 1.45v
Gskill 800mghz @ 380
Corsair tx750w psu
Coolermaster v8 hea tsink
2 EVGA 9600 gt sli

temps
cpu 48 idle 64 load

mb 40 idle 45 load

If you have any input of what would solve it, it would be greatly apreciated.

Any thoughts on the p5n-d?


Pretty much the same issue I have. Posted earlier. I didn't mention it specifically, but I also got a black screen on games. I gave up on this board.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Christiaan*


Between 295FSB (1180) and all the way up to 380FSB (1520) it either a) doesn't boot, b) boots, but hangs on the BIOS screen, c) hangs when loading Windows, d) loads Windows, passes Orthos/Prime95 with flying colours, but as soon as I run a game it freaks out.


----------



## sparkyork

The lowest front side bus options I have are 400 for ram and 533 in the CPU fsb
couldn't get the 1 gig sticks to work so am gonna try some that's defo on the qvl and take it from there, I wanted 8 gig buy might have to settle for 4 in the end


----------



## sparkyork

ok today i purchased 2 pairs of 1 gig ram (4 all together)
ram is corsair xms2twin2x2048-6400
found ram settings somewhere on this site and tried them, put all ram in and same problem as before, posts but wont boot into windows7

took all ram out and left one in and tried it in bank a1, no boot to windows
in bank a2, nbw
in bank b1, nbw
in bank b2, nbw

i then put two sticks in a1 and a2 and still no boot, the only difference been with this ram is that im able to boot to the point in windows where the swirling orbs become the "windows" then off it goes.

i had just realised tho that the settings ive been following are for the exact model number but with c4 on the end, which i cant seem to see mentioned in mine

at this time i had put my p4 3.2 640 in place of the q9300 it came with, whilst ive been trying new memory it allways says unknown cpu perform bios upgrade to unleash its full power? the cpu is on the asus site as been supported since bios 0202 i believe.
so since im runnning 1404 im presuming ive got that support allready, the cpu details during post all conform to the norm giving name and speed etc

so lots of different ram tried, cpu changed to p4 from q9300

took p4 cpu out and placed it back in existing ecs p4m800 board and everythings fine boots up using same hard drive and all is good using ecs ddr ram...

im now wondering if my issues is more to do with windows 7 that is allready installed on my ide hd that im trying to boot into with the new mobo setup, im wondering if its detecting to many hardware changes and just crashing out, so i tried doing a clean install, placed dvd in drive and again rebooted, had to press f1 as always to continue the boot and off it went to boot from dvd, sept i get cdboot:cannot boot from cd error 5

i tried a brief bit of research on this and some ppl say it points to the motherborard controller for dvd support problem?
is it possible this board is unable to boot from dvd?

my psu is jeantech 500w
ide 0 hd drive
ide 1 dvd drive
ram in b1 & b2
akasa evo cpu cooler
q9300
quadro fx 550, could this be the issue? its currently in pcie slot, blue one

the above is what im now currently trying to run, as ive put the p4 back in old rig to type this

ive got unlinked checked, qdr fsb is 1333 and ram ddr is 667, maybe i have these set up wrong?

id really appreciate some help on this as ive never had this much bother with a mobo in all my life and this is really crazing me!

my plan was to buy the above mobo,cpu,gfx for Â£100 then get some 8800gt's in sli fitted with adequate cooling and at least 4gigs of ram

help!


----------



## Christiaan

Not sure why it won't work with the P4, as that has I think a 800FSB? But, try this for the Q9300. Lower the FSB to 1066 and see if it works.

My board hates anything over 1180-ish FSB, perhaps your board is similar, hence why you can't run 1333FSB.

You could also try upping the voltage, the board doesn't support your quad (See below*)
maybe it's not setting the correct volts, and getting starved at Windows load up. Try putting on 1.1v with the +100mv setting. That'll put it on 1.2v. You shouldn't need more than that at stock, since my Q6600 runs with 1.18v with my mild overclock.









*I'm not sure where you are looking, but this board does not officially support the Q8xxx and Q9xxx series quads.

No idea on normal DVD support. I run a USB DVD Drive, which works flawlessly.


----------



## sparkyork

thanks christian

i changed fsb to 1066, but put memory on linked and set ratio of 3:2, giving me 711 ish on the ram fsb

i think i may be missing something on this side of things?

im getting to the same point on the p4 and q9300 im now gonna try individual sticks of ram in the yellow slot just using one stick too see if it makes any difference
this is really confusing for me really, im starting to wonder if this board is on its last legs, the only reason i dont think it is, is because im not hundred percent im setting things corectly in bios

for example if i fail to boot to windows and have to switch off and turn on, when i enter bios again and press f10 to save and continue, is this the correct method or do i need to reset cmos on the jumper and on the battery aswell?

im also wondering if the graphics card could cause any problems like this? i know very little about this type of cars: quadro fx 550

im presuming my power supply is fine as it runs my other board with a power hungry x1950

can anyone say what windows 7 is like on boot when it detects lots of hardware changes?
probable irelevant thos as i cant even boot from dvd either

im sure my issues are to do with ram judging by problems lots of other ppl have had?

for ref my ram is corsair xms2 twin2x2048-6400 or cm2x1024-6400
stock timings on ram is: 1.90v ver2.8, 5-5-5-18

im gonna try the ram now and post back with any results thos im sure there will be only bad news!

cheers

rich


----------



## footclan

Hi,

I can't seem to get past 1200 fsb. I've had luck getting to 1300 with a 8x for 2.6ghz, but not really much higher than that. My system is stable at 1200 fsb with 10x for 3ghz right now. I recently put a chipset cooler on it and it's idle at around 37.

Any suggestions? Is there a better bios I can use? I went switched from 608 when I wanted more ram slots supported.

Also, I bought a fan for my mobo cooler. It has male and female 4 pin connectors. Where do I plug this in?

Mobo - P5N-E sli
Mobo cooler - Thermalright Hr-05 SLI
CPU - e4500 2.2 @ 3ghz 1.325v
CPU cooler - Scythe ninja
Ram - Corsair PC6400 2048mb x4 - only 2 sticks in use right now
PSU - Corsair HX1000w
GPU - XFX 8800 GTX x 2 - only 1 in right now
OS - Win xp 64bit


----------



## sparkyork

im now confused beyond belief!

ive bought a gigabyte ep41 ud3l and im getting the same issues as with the asus, i think im using the right memory ive got some cm2x1024-6400 all thoguh on the qvl for gigabyte board they do say about the ram with the c4 on the end

am i experianceing memory problems and because i dont have the c4 variety i cant boot?
it seems to me like very similar memory

the ram i have is on the list for the p5ne but couldnt get it to work in that either, again i dont know if my fsb etc was set right

im thinking that ppl are not interested in this board and unwilling to offer some solutions.

the bits that are in the gigabyte board are exactly the same as the p5ne, sept it accepts the cpu for definate on the site etc, only slight problem is this c4 thing, is this such an issue???????

ANY help or suggestions very much welcome, have pc's become more complicated in the last few years? i remember having to manually set multipliers on and old AT pc years ago , this takes the piss really ram should work to an acceptable standard like the old ibm compatable mallarkee a few years ago


----------



## dhv217

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sparkyork* 
im now confused beyond belief!

ive bought a gigabyte ep41 ud3l and im getting the same issues as with the asus, i think im using the right memory ive got some cm2x1024-6400 all thoguh on the qvl for gigabyte board they do say about the ram with the c4 on the end

am i experianceing memory problems and because i dont have the c4 variety i cant boot?
it seems to me like very similar memory

the ram i have is on the list for the p5ne but couldnt get it to work in that either, again i dont know if my fsb etc was set right

im thinking that ppl are not interested in this board and unwilling to offer some solutions.

the bits that are in the gigabyte board are exactly the same as the p5ne, sept it accepts the cpu for definate on the site etc, only slight problem is this c4 thing, is this such an issue???????

ANY help or suggestions very much welcome, have pc's become more complicated in the last few years? i remember having to manually set multipliers on and old AT pc years ago , this takes the piss really ram should work to an acceptable standard like the old ibm compatable mallarkee a few years ago

Could be your power supply if it's the same exact results as with the P5N, have you tired checking the power supply with a Power Supply Tester or tried a different one if you have one available.

If you're using the same CPU it could also be the CPU. Since you have new memory you could try running memtest on each stick indiviually to see if one of them could be the cause.


----------



## sparkyork

Cheers, I had wondered but my previoius system was much more power hungry as the agp needs lots of juice. And it still works when I build my old pc.
I've tried the p4 CPU but not in the new board, I don't think it's the CPU tho
I'm gonna try the p5n again, could it be the gfx card? Even tho it displays fine in bios!


----------



## sparkyork

I'm convinced my probs are ram related.

Though I have a spare 300w psu so could always try that instead, if CPU was duff would it still allow windows recovery to start and try and launch windows etc even tho this process fails saying it can't repair this computer?


----------



## dhv217

First if you pick the 300w one that might not be enough to power up the system with the Q9300. It should have enough to power the system with the P4. It's best to go with the power supply you have now, provided that one's still good, since you haven't test it.

Secondly try booting up with just one memory stick and running memtest to test the memory. Set the timings manually as always in bios for your memory and the voltage to help give you a stable environment to test. Once you've run memtest and it passes you can continue to work from there to find out what's causing your system to freeze / hang / not bootup.


----------



## africandavid

I finally gave up on my good ol' p5n... i'm going to miss it.


----------



## sparkyork

hi all,
ive got the asus p5ne sat on some nice thick cardboard with graphics card, and 2 sticks of xms2 6400 in the yellow slots and the q9300

ive bought a new 750 psu just to rule this out aswell

ive booted from usb and currently running memtest86 v4 and just about to complete 2 passes with no errors

generally does this mean my ram is more than likely ok? and pretty much set up ok in bios?
for the first time ive seen on the post screen the dual channel memory and memory clcok recognize3d as been 800mhz, im sure i may of set something wrong in bios before

i feel like there is a lil bit of hope for this board after all, still cant boot from my dvd drive tho and was able to boot off it on my p4 about ten minutes ago
get cdboot error code 5
also cant boot off ide windows 7 install as i now get bootmgr missing not the splash screen like before

id love to get this baord running any one fancy going through all the bios settings to help make sure im not missing something?

ill do the typing just let me know if your up to the challenge and ill post all the info

cheers all

rich


----------



## Dare978devil

Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone saw my page 941 post about NV errors running with the P5N-E in SLI mode with 2 8800 GTS cards.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
BM.


----------



## sexybastard

nm

have you tried running the ebay card on its own to confirm its not bad?


----------



## cnoffsin

Ok i don't knw if i have accomplished anything or not but i did a lot of research trying to make this work and i did not see anyone that succeeded.

I have made my powercolor 3850s crossfire successfully on my p5n-e SLI

it took some driver manipulation but no bios hacks what soever and i have the latests nforce drivers on my system.

its vista ultimate 32 bit.

i downloaded the DNA 8.9 catalysts. installed them (with the opengl 7.11 hack enabled) now i know this is an old driver. i have not tried new ones yet.

rebooted. the control center still said my second adapter was disabled.

in my resarch i had heard that the dell xps 730 h2c was specially hacked to have 2 3870x2s on a 680i nvidia board.

so all i did was go to device manager and force one of my cards to take the 3870x2 driver from the dell driver from their support site R190847.exe is the file.

when i rebooted the system the catalyst control center had crossfire now enabled!

i then changed the driver back to the dna driver on that card from the 3870x2 and rebooted. the crossfire is still enabled!

i have played just cause 2 in 1366x768 and it runs great. i have not had time to do a real benchmark yet.

so i don't know if this is any big deal. maybe i got lucky and i have a very similar set up to the xps. i heard also dell refuses to release a 64 bit version of this hacked radeon driver.

but what i think i have accomplished is that contrary to what i saw a dell rep say it is NOT a bios limitation keeping crossfire off of nvidia boards. its just the ati driver. i have the latest nforce drivers so that isn't limiting it.

so i have access to nicer cards. i was going to see if maybe now for some reason i would be able to run 2 5750s now.

so maybe someone smarter than me with my system as a petree dish would like to tell me how i could make this into some sort of hacked catalyst driver that would work on other nvidia boards.

thanks for reading


----------



## cnoffsin

Just an update if anybody cares i was able to get my drivers updated to the latest catalyst 10.4s with my 3850s in crossfire.

i updated the driver manually in device manager and installed the catalyst control center separately.

i still have crossfire so i would think there would be know problem using a nicer card like a 5800 or 5700 series.


----------



## Christiaan

Of course we all care.









Good job getting Crossfire to work.


----------



## linkin93

So crossfire can work on this board? How about with 2x 5770's? I WANT!


----------



## cnoffsin

hey thanks for the replies guys. and another update it does appear dell released a 64 bit driver so i could do 64 bit also

what i will do is start with a clean fully up to date install on monday with 2 5750s and then try the hacks in the same order. i think that the driver Inf can just be modified to make it accept all cards. i will run a compare on the infs to see if there is some sort of special difference in them.

i will then try and release a packaged driver with the hacks built in. i just dont think the catalyst package it self can be installed because it will remove all old traces

i think after you use the old dell inf and activate crossfire you can then manually update the driver for the displays in device manager with the new 10.4 driver then install the catalyst package unchecking everything except the catalyst control center.

think after you use the old dell inf and activate crossfire you can then manually update the driver for the displays in device manager with the new 10.4 driver then install the catalyst package unchecking everything except the catalyst control center.

there has to be a way to release a nice easy automated install but i don't know how to script it. if anyone has an ideas i would be open to it if anyone else has any interest in a driver package that could make crossfire work on boards that aren't technically supported.


----------



## Ori

Post removed by Ori.


----------



## AnarchistUK

Hey Guys,

I am looking to overclock my Brother's PC for him, his setup is as follows:

Windows Vista 64bit
4GB DDR2 800 Mhz
nVidia GeForce 8800 GT 512MB @ 600 Mhz
Intel 2 Core Q6600 @ 2.4 Ghz
ASUS P5N-E SLI Motherboard
PSU 750W

Stock fans installed at the moment, but thinking of getting Corsair H50-1 water cooling system?

What suggested settings would be required in the BIOS? I'd like to crank up the whole system, the CPU, GPU & memory, if anybody could assist with some instructions please?

I understand the CPU could be cranked up to around 3.6 Ghz and still be stable?

Thanks!


----------



## Christiaan

Mostly this board is a horrible overclocker for quads. First check how high you can take your FSB with a lowered multi. I can't go far past 1180 (compared to 1460 on a dual core) before I run into trouble, see my mild overclock.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AnarchistUK* 
Hey Guys,

I am looking to overclock my Brother's PC for him, his setup is as follows:

Windows Vista 64bit
4GB DDR2 800 Mhz
nVidia GeForce 8800 GT 512MB @ 600 Mhz
Intel 2 Core Q6600 @ 2.4 Ghz
ASUS P5N-E SLI Motherboard
PSU 750W

Stock fans installed at the moment, but thinking of getting Corsair H50-1 water cooling system?

What suggested settings would be required in the BIOS? I'd like to crank up the whole system, the CPU, GPU & memory, if anybody could assist with some instructions please?

I understand the CPU could be cranked up to around 3.6 Ghz and still be stable?

Thanks!










Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christiaan* 
Mostly this board is a horrible overclocker for quads. First check how high you can take your FSB with a lowered multi. I can't go far past 1180 (compared to 1460 on a dual core) before I run into trouble, see my mild overclock.









Both of you, might find this interesting, I saved it to try on my friends board with a Q6600, but I am in Germany and he is in Ireland, so he will have to wait until the next time I am in Ireland.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-mothe...600-p5n-e.html


----------



## Christiaan

Seen it, unfortunately that thread didn't help me at all.
I've tried so many things for weeks to no avail.

In a earlier post I made, basically anything higher than I have at the moment it does one of the following:

1. Black screen.
2. Hangs at BIOS screen.
3. Hangs on Windows load.
4. Clears Prime, but hangs after a few minutes of gaming.

I get this at varying FSB settings, in no specific order. Best I did was 1520 FSB I think, 3420MHz, (number 4 applies here) after that I gave up and called it quits.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

Need some help. I have maxed out all my SATA connections with DVD drive, 150 GB, 500 GB , 1.5 TB drive. I want to add another 2 TB drive to my computer. I may want to add another 2 TB drive in the future. I don't want to change my Raptor 150 GB and my 500 GB drive has a lot of my programs including iTunes and I don't want to go back and add all the album art again. What is a good and inexpensive method to adding more capacity to my computer. I was thinking of getting an external enclosure with eSATA connection. I saw this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817576001 but it says: "*Motherboard's SATA port MUST support Port Multiplier in order for your computer to recognize multiple hard drive if the unit is connectd via eSATA*" can our motherboards do this. What other suggestions do you guys have.

Thanks


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NUM3ERZ* 
Need some help. I have maxed out all my SATA connections with DVD drive, 150 GB, 500 GB , 1.5 TB drive. I want to add another 2 TB drive to my computer. I may want to add another 2 TB drive in the future. I don't want to change my Raptor 150 GB and my 500 GB drive has a lot of my programs including iTunes and I don't want to go back and add all the album art again. What is a good and inexpensive method to adding more capacity to my computer. I was thinking of getting an external enclosure with eSATA connection. I saw this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817576001 but it says: "*Motherboard's SATA port MUST support Port Multiplier in order for your computer to recognize multiple hard drive if the unit is connectd via eSATA*" can our motherboards do this. What other suggestions do you guys have.

Thanks

You'd still need an internal SATA connection for the eSATA because if I recall correctly we don't have an eSATA.

You'd be better off getting a cheapo PCI SATA controller.


----------



## NUM3ERZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
You'd still need an internal SATA connection for the eSATA because if I recall correctly we don't have an eSATA.

You'd be better off getting a cheapo PCI SATA controller.

Thanks. I'm going to pick up this cheap card.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16816132026


----------



## Zippit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NUM3ERZ* 
Thanks. I'm going to pick up this cheap card.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16816132026

Its SATA1. You might want to look at a SATA2 one.


----------



## dhv217

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
You'd still need an internal SATA connection for the eSATA because if I recall correctly we don't have an eSATA.

You'd be better off getting a cheapo PCI SATA controller.

P5N-E SLI has an ESata port on the back. Whether it supports multiple hard disks on the single port I'm not sure. I know when I installed the Jmicron Sata software driver from Asus's driver page on Windows2003 Server it gives options for configuring the port with hard drives. Not sure if it supports multiple hard disk at once.


----------



## bourne-no longer

Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the P5N-E and WOL?

I have been trying my hardest to get it to work but I haven't been able to get it to work properly. I have enabled "Power on by PCI/PCIE Devices" in the BIOS which is what I THINK controls the WOL feature, but it isn't really clear. However even with this enabled I still can't get it to wake up from being powered off. I can get my PC to wake up if it is asleep, but i'd prefer if I could get it to actually turn on.

Was just wondering if anyone has any experience with this.

Thank you

Cheers


----------



## razorx

Just updating my config and post of the cpuid link:

P5N-E SLI with Q9550 running at 3.48Ghz stable for 6 months

However(isn't there always one?), I have had intermittent Windows 64bit hard freeze issues from several times a day to one a week. There is a rather large thread already on microsoft support that covers the many causes.

I have eliminated overclocking from that consideration by moving to stock clock rate and had the same freeze occur (unless some fundamental incompatibility with Q9550, remote chance though). I believe I have fixed it by adding a new Intel network card, disabling the MB network port, replacing SB Audigy sound card with a HT Omega Claro Plus, and removing the internal USB i/o card. No problems for a week, so knock on all kinds of wood.

Will update in a week or so with the "final" status.

Oh, temps are running 35-40 with cpu voltage set in the bios at 1.7? Can't remember the exact number.

410 bus speed is the absolute max to POST on my MB and coincidentally is stable. Have tried different speeds up to 500 looking for a "hole" but it doesn't exist. 410, it is.

FINAL STATUS: Replacing the above solved all Windows 7 hard freeze issues, so running like a total champ. Final guess, is that MB network port is not compatible with Windows 7 or the SB Audigy card is not. Don't think the USB had anything to do with it, but... who knows. Either way, I won't have to upgrade this machine (replace) for another two years knock on wood.


----------



## UnderXxX

MY BOARD DIED!









And i don't even know what happened.
I dissassembled my whole computer to clean the dust inside...got it all back in one piece and now i don't get image on my monitor.I tested everything...Video Card,CPU,RAM...everything!The problem is the MotherBoard.And now i'm stuck with a low quality mobo.Anyone has an idea about what could it happened?

This computer was running fully stable at 3.8Ghz just like my signature for 2 years.Never had issues.But i just found a weard thing.On my chipset cooler (Thermalright HR-05-SLI)...i found some scratches from the chipset chip.


----------



## OptimusPrime

edit---fixed jumped to conclusions it being my 3rd board


----------



## JOSHSKORN

I have JUST started overclocking my P5N-E and I used AI Overclocking from the BIOS. I have BIOS ver 0608. My processor chip is the E6750.

I set it to overclock at 5%, no problem (from 2.66 to 2.79/2.80).

I set it to overclock at 10%, no problem (from 2.66 to 2.93)

I set it to overclock at 15%, PROBLEM! My computer would not boot and I heard a long beep that would not stop. I was freaked out. I did a hard shut down and was able to get back into the BIOS and reduce the overclocking to 10%.

My question is this. What, ideally am I looking for, temperature wise for my CPU and motherboard? I just booted up for the first time today and according to CoreTemp, it's 34-40 C. Last night after several hours of usage, it was as high as 56 C. Mind you, this was during a period of time that I was multi-tasking (enough for my taskbar to have a second row) and also playing Halo, which I know isn't as demanding on your system as games like Crysis and any recent Call of Duty game. An ORTHOS test pushed it up to 61 C.

Note: Just minimized Halo and I have a temp range of 42 C-49 C. The 49 value is on Core #0 and the highest value on Core #1 is 46 C.

Update: After about an hour or so, the upper range of my temp has risen to 54 C. Currently, my temp is at 47-49 C.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *razorx*


Just updating my config and post of the cpuid link:

P5N-E SLI with Q9550 running at 3.48Ghz stable for 6 months

However(isn't there always one?), I have had intermittent Windows 64bit hard freeze issues from several times a day to one a week. There is a rather large thread already on microsoft support that covers the many causes.

I have eliminated overclocking from that consideration by moving to stock clock rate and had the same freeze occur (unless some fundamental incompatibility with Q9550, remote chance though). I believe I have fixed it by adding a new Intel network card, disabling the MB network port, replacing SB Audigy sound card with a HT Omega Claro Plus, and removing the internal USB i/o card. No problems for a week, so knock on all kinds of wood.

Will update in a week or so with the "final" status.

Oh, temps are running 35-40 with cpu voltage set in the bios at 1.7? Can't remember the exact number.

410 bus speed is the absolute max to POST on my MB and coincidentally is stable. Have tried different speeds up to 500 looking for a "hole" but it doesn't exist. 410, it is.

FINAL STATUS: Replacing the above solved all Windows 7 hard freeze issues, so running like a total champ. Final guess, is that MB network port is not compatible with Windows 7 or the SB Audigy card is not. Don't think the USB had anything to do with it, but... who knows. Either way, I won't have to upgrade this machine (replace) for another two years knock on wood.


I've had very horrible OC'n luck with the q9550..

I was working on it more today, and I froze up while loading win7 at 3.06 (1440 - 360*8.5)

cpu voltage is 1.25, NB is 1.56, and I pumped up the mem to 2.259..bios is 1406

Am I missing something, or is the issue similar to Razors, where he swapped out a few other components, and then he hit a nice OC?..

any others with a q9550 and are getting decent OCs?


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JOSHSKORN*


I have JUST started overclocking my P5N-E and I used AI Overclocking from the BIOS. I have BIOS ver 0608. My processor chip is the E6750.

I set it to overclock at 5%, no problem (from 2.66 to 2.79/2.80).

I set it to overclock at 10%, no problem (from 2.66 to 2.93)

I set it to overclock at 15%, PROBLEM! My computer would not boot and I heard a long beep that would not stop. I was freaked out. I did a hard shut down and was able to get back into the BIOS and reduce the overclocking to 10%.

My question is this. What, ideally am I looking for, temperature wise for my CPU and motherboard? I just booted up for the first time today and according to CoreTemp, it's 34-40 C. Last night after several hours of usage, it was as high as 56 C. Mind you, this was during a period of time that I was multi-tasking (enough for my taskbar to have a second row) and also playing Halo, which I know isn't as demanding on your system as games like Crysis and any recent Call of Duty game. An ORTHOS test pushed it up to 61 C.

Note: Just minimized Halo and I have a temp range of 42 C-49 C. The 49 value is on Core #0 and the highest value on Core #1 is 46 C.

Update: After about an hour or so, the upper range of my temp has risen to 54 C. Currently, my temp is at 47-49 C.


You may have to changes the voltage from auto, and manually set it. (chip needs higher voltage to handle higher clock speeds.)

Otherwise, read up and manually OC your self..


----------



## JOSHSKORN

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie*


You may have to changes the voltage from auto, and manually set it. (chip needs higher voltage to handle higher clock speeds.)

Otherwise, read up and manually OC your self..


Where do I see the voltage? Is there a Windows App that will tell me the same thing? I have CoreTemp, RealTemp, CPU-Z, Speccy and Everest Ultimate Edition.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JOSHSKORN* 
Where do I see the voltage? Is there a Windows App that will tell me the same thing? I have CoreTemp, RealTemp, CPU-Z, Speccy and Everest Ultimate Edition.

To view what your voltages are, you can use CPUz, it is on there.

To change your voltages, that is in your bios. For a good/stable OC, you do NOT want to be messing with numbers while in windows, do it all it the bios.

I thought by your previous post you were in the bios, and chose the auto OC to 15%, then had problems.. was that not how you did it?

And FYI previous to upgrading to a q9550, I had the same chip, E6750, and without trying to push it too hard I managed to get it to 3.5.. Not with the auto either, MANUALLY working on the FSB, while having to up the votages to the CPU and the North Bridge.

How is your cooling?


----------



## Krisidious

hello all... I'm new here first post.

I have had a P5N-E Sli for about 2 years maybe more, I first bought the E4300 and over clocked it, now I've bought a Q9505 and DDR2 800 ram and a new 1080 power supply... currently I have it over clocked to 1500FSB and it's reading 3.19 on CPUZ...

it's not behaving very stable under load... I first had the voltage on the CPU set to 1.2 but now have it at auto and tuned down to 1400FSB... this has made it more stable but not much... don't get me wrong it's not bad unless I'm knocking on the back door of the fourth core.

does anyone else have this processor mobo combo?

I'd be interested to know some other people's bios settings.


----------



## Christiaan

I think there are a few with that same cpu, but overall the board hates to overclock quads.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krisidious*


hello all... I'm new here first post.

I have had a P5N-E Sli for about 2 years maybe more, I first bought the E4300 and over clocked it, now I've bought a Q9505 and DDR2 800 ram and a new 1080 power supply... currently I have it over clocked to 1500FSB and it's reading 3.19 on CPUZ...

it's not behaving very stable under load... I first had the voltage on the CPU set to 1.2 but now have it at auto and tuned down to 1400FSB... this has made it more stable but not much... don't get me wrong it's not bad unless I'm knocking on the back door of the fourth core.

does anyone else have this processor mobo combo?

I'd be interested to know some other people's bios settings.


I have a Q9550 with this board, and yes, it plays well at stock, with a slight OC.. but otherwise the 45nm quad chips dont mesh with the 650i chipset..

Your best bet is to throttle back until its stable.. and learn to live it









I'm actually in the process of switching this board out, and moving to a Gigabyte EP45-UD3P, which OC quads very well.. Q9550 is known to break 4.0 easy. And I've seen Q9505 hit 3.7-3.8 as well, some cracking 4.0 with the right bios.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Question for some of you.

I am parting ways with my P5N-E, selling it to a friend, but I want him to have 4gbs of memory (the memory I have in there now is in my sig, but isnt stable, and he isnt the type to make it work/put up with the issues)

So what do you recommend for a nice, stable 2x2gb kit for this board? No OC needed, just something safe!


----------



## Tong

I got one of these.
Im going just forget about this cheap mobo and get something better.You all should too


----------



## Krisidious

Quote:

Question for some of you.

I am parting ways with my P5N-E, selling it to a friend, but I want him to have 4gbs of memory (the memory I have in there now is in my sig, but isnt stable, and he isnt the type to make it work/put up with the issues)

So what do you recommend for a nice, stable 2x2gb kit for this board? No OC needed, just something safe!
I'm using these and they are working well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820141364


----------



## Krisidious

ok so reporting back...

I've set my board to unlinked and the FSB to 1550... this seems to be stable @ 3294mhz. so I guess I can live with that.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krisidious*


I'm using these and they are working well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820141364


Perfect.

It is a very good price.. Just what I'm looking for.. my buddy wont notice a difference between value ram and and the nicer stuff..

any other suggestions? I checked the QVL but there are always exceptions


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Really? No other comments about peoples experiences with their 2x2gb kits?

Has anyone or is anyone using any other cheap but stable memory in their P5N-E?


----------



## cyberpaladin

Ok so I have been trying to OC my rig and can't seem to get a stable OC from any settings I have put in through the bios. Here's what I'm working with.

ASUS p5n-e motherboard
intel e6750 core 2 processor @ 2.66 GHz 
OCZ Reaper RAM 4x1GB
EVGA GTS 250 1GB graphics card
2x Seagate Barracuda 250GB HDD's
MadDog Writemaster CDRW/DVDRW drive
Raidmax Sagitta Case
Antec TruePower Trio 850W Powersupply

I just flashed the bios to the current version and tried a simple 5% OC and it failed immediately. any suggestions?


----------



## BungalowJunkie

I would run some tests first to make sure your system is stable at stock settings.

try Prime95.

also, did you manually set your memory timings in the bios, or is that set to auto? this board is a little touchy with ram, most of us have to manually set the timings and voltage (4-4-4-12, 2t and 2.2v for me) to obtain a stable machine.


----------



## Tong

here's what I did and what you all might have to do in order do keep it stable:

*-Raise the FSB in "unlinked" mode
-Lower your memory FSB abit
-Do not try to go over 400 FSB
-Manually set your memory timings and voltage
-Increase the volts in NB, CPU
´*

Thats what I have done in order to get 3.1Ghz Stable 24/7 on my Q8400


----------



## faheyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberpaladin;11591285*
> Ok so I have been trying to OC my rig and can't seem to get a stable OC from any settings I have put in through the bios. Here's what I'm working with.
> 
> ASUS p5n-e motherboard
> intel e6750 core 2 processor @ 2.66 GHz
> OCZ Reaper RAM 4x1GB
> EVGA GTS 250 1GB graphics card
> 2x Seagate Barracuda 250GB HDD's
> MadDog Writemaster CDRW/DVDRW drive
> Raidmax Sagitta Case
> Antec TruePower Trio 850W Powersupply
> 
> I just flashed the bios to the current version and tried a simple 5% OC and it failed immediately. any suggestions?


There are plenty of settings laying around the internet. http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/core_2_duo_e6750_review/13.html I would NOT start at those settings, but would work my way up to them. Sending more voltage does not really mean you get an instant overclock. Every motherboard/cpu combo is different. As stated on the net, if you do the voltage increase, try increasing at .025v per step and test. I wouldn't even adjust any NB settings until I get a failed overclock on your highest good result setting. Please make sure you are using cpu-z and coretemp to measure voltage and heat. As previously stated, lower and unlock your memory from the cpu clock, so that you can overclock the memory separately. Google the internet for some overclock guides.


----------



## snakebyte

What is a decent northbridge cooler that is still available to buy these days? The HR-05 sli is not available anywhere.


----------



## amunds

Hello.

I've used this card for several years now, 100% stable, with 2 gb (2x1gb) of RAM.
Didnt use the RAM in Dual Channel cause the board wouldnt let me.
Anyway - now I've bought 2 x 2gb chips of the same RAM (gonna list hardware at the end), put the two 2gb chips in the 1. and 2. slot, and the two old (but same RAM) in the 3. and 4. spot.
The computer booted just fine - but suddenly I got Blue Screen.
BCcode: 3b - SYSTEM SERVICE EXCEPTION.
The intervall between the blue screens vary, but the system is clearly not stable.
I've flashed the BIOS to the newest version I could find at ASUS (1406?!), but that didnt really do anything..
Also set the first memory timings manually - 5-5-5-18.
Could it be a idea to set rest of the timings as well ? (Advanced timings...)

Also tried to increase the Memory Voltage to 2.1, but I still got a blue screen after that.
The CPUIZ show 1,8V and not 2,1V. Does that mean the board arent increasing the Memory Voltage ??

I'm not looking for a overclocked system - just a stable system with 6gb of RAM running.

*To sum up:*
1. System before new RAM - 100% stable. Never had a blue screen.
2. With new RAM - boots just fine. Get Blue Screen.
3. Flashed BIOS to the latest I found on ASUS.com (1406?)
4. Set Memory Timings (Not the Advanced - help anyone?) to 5-5-5-18 (Mem-chip list)
5. Set the Memory Volt to 2.073(or something?), but not showing that in CPUIZ. Help ?

*Machine:*
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit.
Motherboard: ASUS P5N-E SLI at BIOS version 1406 (the latest on ASUS.com)
RAM(slot 1 & 2): 2 x 2gb of Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C5C @ stock speed = 800mhz.
RAM(slot 3 & 4): 2 x 1gb of Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400 @ stock speed = 800 mhz.
(both listet with 5-5-5-18 Memory Timings).
CPU: Intel E6850, all stock.
GPU: XFX GeForce 8800GT XXX.


----------



## amunds

*Update:*
6. Tried to run the system with the two new chips only. In slot 1 and 2 like I did before with the 1gb chips. Got Blue Screen now as well. :-(

But this time the Blue Screen-message was: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL


----------



## amunds

*Update:*
Seems like theres the newest nVidia drivers who cause this problems.
I went on all day yesterday with the drivers win7 found itself, without any
problems. 
Then I installed the new drivers again - worked for a while last night.. 
But when I turned on the computer today, I got a IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL-message again.

I uninstalled the drivers again, and installed the former driver.
And its running without blue screen for 3-4 hours now.


----------



## snakebyte

Hi amunds, I've also got 6gb ram and running dual channel fine. I put my two 2gb sticks in the same coloured slots and did the same for the 1gb sticks and dual channel works fine. Unsure if you've done this already though :0)


----------



## amunds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakebyte;11814553*
> Hi amunds, I've also got 6gb ram and running dual channel fine. I put my two 2gb sticks in the same coloured slots and did the same for the 1gb sticks and dual channel works fine. Unsure if you've done this already though :0)


Hi.

No actually I've got them 2 + 1 together.

I "updated" the nVidia-drivers to an older driver yesterday morning.
My computer was on more or less the entire day without any blue screen.

So it seems like its the newest nVidia-drivers who was the problem on
my system.


----------



## snakebyte

Glad you've got it all sorted, I am still on the driver before october myself.


----------



## drfish

Any reason to try the Q6600 BSEL Mod on this board vs. messing with the FSB in the BIOS? I've never had good luck with my chip and this board but I'm not ready to part with it yet and would love to find a way to run at 3Ghz+ so this is intriguing...


----------



## faheyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amunds;11814841*
> Hi.
> 
> No actually I've got them 2 + 1 together.
> 
> I "updated" the nVidia-drivers to an older driver yesterday morning.
> My computer was on more or less the entire day without any blue screen.
> 
> So it seems like its the newest nVidia-drivers who was the problem on
> my system.


It may be working, but as far as I know, to be correct you should have it like this:
A1 = 2GB (skip a slot for the next 2GB)
A2 = 1GB
B1 = 2GB
B2 = 1GB
This will ensure you are running in dual channel mode.
In Bios, Manually set the timings to the set of the slowest memory chips, or 555 auto... to start with.
Download and burn to cd/usb stick, memtest86 and verify your memory.
http://www.memtest.org/
Use cpu-z to see what your cpu and memory sticks are doing in windows.
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
After that, you should run Prime95 to check your system, along with 3Dmark06 to confirm your settings.
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/ (download appropriate client, 32/64bit)
http://www.futuremark.com/benchmarks/3dmark06/introduction/

These tools and your settings will confirm whether or not you are running without errors.

Hope this helps,
Dylan


----------



## amunds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faheyd;11874895*
> It may be working, but as far as I know, to be correct you should have it like this:
> A1 = 2GB (skip a slot for the next 2GB)
> A2 = 1GB
> B1 = 2GB
> B2 = 1GB
> This will ensure you are running in dual channel mode.
> In Bios, Manually set the timings to the set of the slowest memory chips, or 555 auto... to start with.
> Download and burn to cd/usb stick, memtest86 and verify your memory.
> http://www.memtest.org/
> Use cpu-z to see what your cpu and memory sticks are doing in windows.
> http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
> After that, you should run Prime95 to check your system, along with 3Dmark06 to confirm your settings.
> http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/ (download appropriate client, 32/64bit)
> http://www.futuremark.com/benchmarks/3dmark06/introduction/
> 
> These tools and your settings will confirm whether or not you are running without errors.
> 
> Hope this helps,
> Dylan


Hi, Dylan. And thanks for your answer.
I realize I've got the RAM in single channel... But when I tried to set the bricks as you propose - I couldnt boot the machine. :-(

This was the case when the computer was new as well.
At that time I just put them in slot 1 and 2 (had just 2 bricks with 1gb each at that time) and runned it in single channel.

Now I've got the memory timings put in manually as well (only the first 5-5-5-18, not the advanced) - and I have flashed the BIOS to the latest one available on asus.com - so dont know whats wrong now. :-(

To sum up - Computer run with no problem with the RAM in Single Channel, but wont even boot (BSOD) in Dual Channel (with all 4 bricks or just 2 of them...)


----------



## mavizaman

E7500 R0 Revision
vid:1.2625
2.92ghz (266*11)
temps:
idle :25-30c
load:35-40c

*overclock:*
4.00ghz
cpu v:1.3750
fsb:400mhz
multiplier:10
fsb:dram:1:1
temps:
idle: 30-35c
load:60-65c
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1577290


----------



## faheyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amunds;11876331*
> Hi, Dylan. And thanks for your answer.
> I realize I've got the RAM in single channel... But when I tried to set the bricks as you propose - I couldnt boot the machine. :-(
> 
> This was the case when the computer was new as well.
> At that time I just put them in slot 1 and 2 (had just 2 bricks with 1gb each at that time) and runned it in single channel.
> 
> Now I've got the memory timings put in manually as well (only the first 5-5-5-18, not the advanced) - and I have flashed the BIOS to the latest one available on asus.com - so dont know whats wrong now. :-(
> 
> To sum up - Computer run with no problem with the RAM in Single Channel, but wont even boot (BSOD) in Dual Channel (with all 4 bricks or just 2 of them...)


I would have bet a snickers bar that manually setting the memory modules to the slowest setting of the pairs would have fixed it. Sorry it didn't totally work out for ya..
I'm also running a P5Q Deluxe motherboard that I'm happy with, just for info.


----------



## Anastasios

Hey guys I am a big noob in OCing

atm i have a P5N-e sli with a E4300 with 1gb of kingston ram with a 9500GT graphics card

from reading some of this thread and research of my own i plan to oc it a bit

i also read the cooling threads and currently i think it is running hot

my case has only one side fan and one small exhaust fan and the stock cpu fan, i plan on getting a 120mm for the front, upgrading the 80mm side fan, getting 2 more 80mm side fans, cutting out the mesh in front of the fans and getting a 92mm fan

then take a look at the temps


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakebyte;11729988*
> What is a decent northbridge cooler that is still available to buy these days? The HR-05 sli is not available anywhere.


did you check the first page of this thread? There are several NB coolers that are listed.

I picked up a smaller one for mine (1.5 yrs back) I'll have to check around to see what it was.

(EDIT) it is a Zalman NB47J, worked great too.


----------



## marsey99

i think the hr-05 sli is a sb heatsink, its just the hr-05 thats the nb the ifx-05 is about the same cooler too.

i used a nc-u6 on mine and that worked well.

they dont make them any more as boards dont have a nb on them anymore so ebay or the fs sections are your best bet.


----------



## erikz1

In 4 years has anyone determined if these 2 items worked in this motherboard?

G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory

Intel Core 2 Quad Q8300 Yorkfield 2.5GHz LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80580Q8300

The description by rights, does elude that they would. But after making my head hurt by reading OVER and OVER and OVER that people try this and that... I really just hoping in nearly 1,000 pages - Someone will answer definitively, yes or no.

Thank you.

Erik Z


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Are you asking because you have tried to get those components to work and they dont? Or that you have a chance to pick those up and are not sure if they will work??

I just checked around and the processor you listed will/does work on the board. The question is the memory.

The memory I used on my P5N-E wasnt on the QVL list to work on the board, but it did.. BUT.. when I added a 2nd kit (orig. I had 2x1gb Patriot Extreme, added a 2nd 2x1gb IDENTICAL kit) and it was a no go.

So whats your situation? If you have all 3 of those components, perhaps sell the memory and pick up a kit that will work for you... if you dig around just a bit on this thread, or use the interwebs, you'll be able to find a compatible 2x2gb kit.


----------



## snakebyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie;12127141*
> did you check the first page of this thread? There are several NB coolers that are listed.
> 
> I picked up a smaller one for mine (1.5 yrs back) I'll have to check around to see what it was.
> 
> (EDIT) it is a Zalman NB47J, worked great too.


Aye I checked and here is what I concluded after searching around:
Thermalright HR-05-SLI
- no longer available to purchase
Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II (CL-C0034)
- no longer available to purchase
Xigmatek S1283
- won't fit, too large
Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro
- no longer available to purchase

The Zalman NB47J you used could be the only way to go, cheers for letting me know. I had seen this one before, but it didn't look like it would do a much better job than the stock. Obviously I assumed wrongly


----------



## snakebyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marsey99;12128596*
> i used a nc-u6 on mine and that worked well.


Cheers, I'll take a look


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakebyte;12368185*
> Aye I checked and here is what I concluded after searching around:
> Thermalright HR-05-SLI
> - no longer available to purchase
> Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II (CL-C0034)
> - no longer available to purchase
> Xigmatek S1283
> - won't fit, too large
> Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro
> - no longer available to purchase
> 
> The Zalman NB47J you used could be the only way to go, cheers for letting me know. I had seen this one before, but it didn't look like it would do a much better job than the stock. Obviously I assumed wrongly


I have to stand corrected actually.. I used the CL-C0034 on the NB. and the Zalman on the SB.. I havent had this board working in a while.. i was a bit confused!

I just checked ebay, and there are 2 CL-C0034's for sale... plus I still have mine, and may be willing to part ways with..


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anastasios;11990584*
> Hey guys I am a big noob in OCing
> 
> atm i have a P5N-e sli with a E4300 with 1gb of kingston ram with a 9500GT graphics card
> 
> from reading some of this thread and research of my own i plan to oc it a bit
> 
> i also read the cooling threads and currently i think it is running hot
> 
> my case has only one side fan and one small exhaust fan and the stock cpu fan, i plan on getting a 120mm for the front, upgrading the 80mm side fan, getting 2 more 80mm side fans, cutting out the mesh in front of the fans and getting a 92mm fan
> 
> then take a look at the temps


What are your temps? Are you using the stock heatsink? What apps. are you using to check your temps?

I would suggest downloading the following apps to get more detailed info on your machine:

hwmonitor - for temps/voltages
everest - overall system info, and has some benchmarking tools
cpu-z - for checking OC's, voltages, FSBs, etcs
Prime95 - for torture testing your machine for stability

get back to us with those temps! If you truly want to OC your rig, you'll have to upgrade the stock cooler.. I used an Arctic Freezer Pro and it worked really well.. I had an E6750 (2.66) and the highest OC I got was 3.66.. I knew I could go higher but at the moment I didnt have to time to tweak, but my temps were well under control.


----------



## LTC

Okay guys, need help!

What is the safe voltage for the NB core? I haven't installed any aftermarket fan or done any mods to the core, so what is safe? Also what is safe voltages for my XMS2 RAM? They are the 2.1 VID's


----------



## turrican9

Still life in this Thread







I myself have owned a couple of these mobos... Used to just look into this thread as a guest a couple of years ago. Nice to see that this motherboard are still up and going, and that Asus has been very nice and given bios updates for so long...

And the two P5N-E SLI boards I owned are still being used by people I know. I ugraded their computers and sold them my boards. One is using it with a E6600 and the other with a Q6600. Both play games and do much of everything. Working perfect.

I think the first P5N-E SLI I bought must have been in the beginning of 2007... So 4 years old now..


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC;12481370*
> Okay guys, need help!
> 
> What is the safe voltage for the NB core? I haven't installed any aftermarket fan or done any mods to the core, so what is safe? Also what is safe voltages for my XMS2 RAM? They are the 2.1 VID's


depends what you want to do if its to overclock NB can be set safely at 1.4 to 1.5v as for the ram i had the same ram clocked to 1000mhz @ 4.4.4.12 timings using 2.115v in bios basicly stock volts...

if your not confertable overclocking then leave NB on auto...


----------



## LTC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UkGouki;12481887*
> depends what you want to do if its to overclock NB can be set safely at 1.4 to 1.5v as for the ram i had the same ram clocked to 1000mhz @ 4.4.4.12 timings using 2.115v in bios basicly stock volts...
> 
> if your not confertable overclocking then leave NB on auto...


I do have the NB at auto right now, but can't get over 3400 on my E6600


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC;12482209*
> I do have the NB at auto right now, but can't get over 3400 on my E6600


When I owned P5N-E SLI I always read that you should not go over that 1.565v (Or what excact voltage it was? Was 1.5v + anyway) setting for NB with the stock NB cooler.

And I too owned a E6600 (Later, good stepping. B2..? Many accomplished 3.6GHz on air with these) but I did not get much past 3.4GHz. I ran it at 3.2GHz (8x 400FSB) for 24/7. This was several years ago, and as far as I can remember I used the 0401 bios (Was 040x anyway) with that CPU. Later bioses did not work well with that CPU. But keep in mind that many newer bioses has been released since those days.

Anyway, I newer tried that CPU in intel boards, but I think the Asus P5N-E SLI hindered further overclocking of that CPU. But the 8x 400FSB was a fast, nice and cool setting. As long as I used that particular bios.


----------



## thiru

Hi guys

I've got a friend who has this motherboard. He installed a new memory kit (replaced old sticks with 2 new ones) but the second stick wasn't recognized, so he updated the bios to the newest version (1406) and it works.

But now he has very high temps (55C idle, 80 in starcraft 2) for no reason.

Anyone know what's going on? he doesn't know which BIOS version he had before he updated.

edit: he says the heatsink is hot.


----------



## LTC

So is running my ram 1:1 okay? So I should put "Linked" on instead of "Unlinked" right?


----------



## UkGouki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC;12484368*
> So is running my ram 1:1 okay? So I should put "Linked" on instead of "Unlinked" right?


when i had this board for solid stable overclock i always had mine at unlinked with ram and manually set the clocks...


----------



## Anastasios

Hey guys, just had a thought.

Would it be better to upgrade my E4300 CPU to something better rather than try fiddle with it?


----------



## marsey99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakebyte;12368201*
> Cheers, I'll take a look


like is said in that post mate new boards today dont have a nb as such so they all pretty much stopped selling the good nb coolers.

i have the noctua on my current board now but when i upgrade i wont need it for that board so its going to live out its days on my bench with this as it keeps it super cool.

2nd hand from ebay or forums is your best bet


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiru;12482934*
> Hi guys
> 
> I've got a friend who has this motherboard. He installed a new memory kit (replaced old sticks with 2 new ones) but the second stick wasn't recognized, so he updated the bios to the newest version (1406) and it works.
> 
> But now he has very high temps (55C idle, 80 in starcraft 2) for no reason.
> 
> Anyone know what's going on? he doesn't know which BIOS version he had before he updated.
> 
> edit: he says the heatsink is hot.


We need more info to help you/him out. Just saying its hot and I need help wont get you far!

is he overclocking? Are all the settings set to auto in bios? Having voltages set to auto usually yield higher volts then is actually needed, thus higher temps. Same goes with this board. Auto set my chip to 1.34 or something, when the stock/VID was around 1.23.. so get in the bios and check that out.

What app. are you using to check the temps? Also, we need to know the case he is using, and other hardware to give a better overall picture of his rig.

To lower temps, you may want to reseat the cooler with some fresh paste, if not invest in a cooler.. I may have an artic freezer pro 7 if you're interested.

In the least crack it open and spray the dust out.. which should be done once a month anyway.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC;12481370*
> Okay guys, need help!
> 
> What is the safe voltage for the NB core? I haven't installed any aftermarket fan or done any mods to the core, so what is safe? Also what is safe voltages for my XMS2 RAM? They are the 2.1 VID's


I think I had my NB up a notch past the 1.56. 1.7 something?? I also had this on it to help cool it though.

as for memory, cant help you there


----------



## Anastasios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie;12369538*
> What are your temps? Are you using the stock heatsink? What apps. are you using to check your temps?
> 
> I would suggest downloading the following apps to get more detailed info on your machine:
> 
> hwmonitor - for temps/voltages
> everest - overall system info, and has some benchmarking tools
> cpu-z - for checking OC's, voltages, FSBs, etcs
> Prime95 - for torture testing your machine for stability
> 
> get back to us with those temps! If you truly want to OC your rig, you'll have to upgrade the stock cooler.. I used an Arctic Freezer Pro and it worked really well.. I had an E6750 (2.66) and the highest OC I got was 3.66.. I knew I could go higher but at the moment I didnt have to time to tweak, but my temps were well under control.


Ok well my temps taken from speed fan are:

GPU: 34c
Temp1:28c
Temp2:29c
Temp3:25C
HD0:31c
Temp1:40c
Core 0:39C
Core 1:35c
Core: 34C

Yes I am using the stock heatsink but with coolermaster high performance thermal compound

It is 1.80GHz but I would like to bump it up to 2GHz so that i can play crysis 2

how do i go about this?


----------



## JOSHSKORN

I'm looking to upgrade my hard drive and I'm not sure if this board will recognize a 3TB drive, specifically the one from Hitachi off Newegg.com.

Does this board recognize a drive of that size? What model are you using? How did you get it to work?

I haven't purchased a drive yet.


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anastasios;12606125*
> Ok well my temps taken from speed fan are:
> 
> GPU: 34c
> Temp1:28c
> Temp2:29c
> Temp3:25C
> HD0:31c
> Temp1:40c
> Core 0:39C
> Core 1:35c
> Core: 34C
> 
> Yes I am using the stock heatsink but with coolermaster high performance thermal compound
> 
> It is 1.80GHz but I would like to bump it up to 2GHz so that i can play crysis 2
> 
> how do i go about this?


E4300 on Asus P5N-E SLI should do 3GHz very easy. I've done it myself a couple of years ago. It should do it with the stock cooler.

Just change the FSB from 800 to 1333MHz. Leave V-core on auto. Run RAM at either 667 or 800 5-5-5-15. Use 667 if problems. Also this board likes 1.9v + for RAM. So do not leave that at auto. Especially if using 4 sticks. Also it may be you have to increase NB Volts up to 1.5v +. Do not use 1.7v + without adding a fan over the NB heatsink.

Also in the range between 800FSB to 1333FSB was full of FSB holes (Computer would not boot) with the [email protected] P5N-E SLI. However, 1333FSB is perfectly fine.


----------



## Anastasios

Ok thanks heaps for that, now I went into bios and changed everything

It doesnt work on those settings which sucks, maybe ill try 667 ram, i am only using 2 sticks of ram

Edit: just used overclock options in bios and set it at 5% and it worked at 1.89ghz, i tried 10% oc but doesnt seem to work?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;12619390*
> E4300 on Asus P5N-E SLI should do 3GHz very easy. I've done it myself a couple of years ago. It should do it with the stock cooler.
> 
> Just change the FSB from 800 to 1333MHz. Leave V-core on auto. Run RAM at either 667 or 800 5-5-5-15. Use 667 if problems. Also this board likes 1.9v + for RAM. So do not leave that at auto. Especially if using 4 sticks. Also it may be you have to increase NB Volts up to 1.5v +. Do not use 1.7v + without adding a fan over the NB heatsink.
> 
> Also in the range between 800FSB to 1333FSB was full of FSB holes (Computer would not boot) with the [email protected] P5N-E SLI. However, 1333FSB is perfectly fine.


----------



## turrican9

Use 1.9 volts for RAM, 1.5v + for NB. RAM at 667MHz 5-5-5-15. FSB at 1333 and multi at 9x. CPU V-core at AUTO. Should work.


----------



## Anastasios

yes! the problem was with the ram mhz before!

thankyou so much

1.8ghz to 3.0ghz! yay now if i want to put more ram will i have to change those settings?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anastasios;12775645*
> yes! the problem was with the ram mhz before!
> 
> thankyou so much
> 
> 1.8ghz to 3.0ghz! yay now if i want to put more ram will i have to change those settings?


If RAM are compatible and working with that motherboard you should be able to use the same settings. You've already put 1.5v + on the NB and 1.9v at RAM, so that should do it. As long as you run them at 667MHz 5-5-5-15. This motherboard does not like [email protected] using 4 sticks.


----------



## EverRed

hi guys,

have to say, just stumbled upon this thread and... shock and awe ^^.
now on to the issue i'm dealing with, the thing is i have my rig for quite some time now, 3-4 years and it still works pretty damn well, so i decided to make some cheap and fast upgrades, got new hdd, and now im moving on to the ram.

the thing that bothers me is the posible(?) compatibility issues betwen my old sticks and the ones i want to buy now. did my reaserch on the new ones, and they seem to be just the right fit (*CorsairXMS 2 GB DDR2 800 MHz CL5 Dual Channel Kit*), same CL5 and dram frequency - 400, as the old ones(*A-DATA 2GB DDR2 800MHz CL5 Gaming Series Dual Channel Kit* - that i have been running on the board for about 1 year, the old ones died). could there be any problems between these two or am i just paranoid?

another thing i want to adress is that i curently run the bios version 1301, should i update to 1406? thanks in advance for the replyes

p.s.: in the near future i would like to oc the cpu that i have (Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2.666Mhz stock) to about 3 MHz, is it feasible? or would it have a better life the way it is considering the wear and tear it has already undergone in these past 3-4 years.

(ol' fart'ass) *Rig specs*:
MB: asus p5n-e sli (ofc ^^)
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2.666MHz
VC: EVGA nVIDIA Geforce 8800 GTS 512mb
RAM: A-DATA 2GB DDR2 800MHz CL5 Gaming Series Dual Channel Kit
HDD: Samsung 1 TB SATA-II 7200RPM 32MB PMR Spinpoint F3
(OS: M WIN 7 Ultimate SP1)

damn it, knew i forgot to mention something: the motherboard itself is somewhat newer than the rest of the pc (about 1 year), the original one was replaced with a brand new one thanks to the guys who serviced my rig when the first pair of ram broke, they thought it had something to do with the mb when infact it was only the a burned stick ^^


----------



## Anastasios

If I have managed to oc my 1.8ghz e4300 to 3ghz im sure you would be able to do something similar

I would suggest that you should upgrade your bios


----------



## Christiaan

I don't think you'll have a issue with the RAM.
Don't bother with the BIOS update.

As for your CPU, I'd overclock it. This board overclocks dual cores like a mad man. You should be able to get 3GHz on stock vcore I'm sure.


----------



## Anastasios

my friend said he can give me a q9505 for 20 bucks as he is upgrading.

will this cpu work with this mobo?


----------



## ooelliottoo

Hi guys I was wondering if I could pick your brains about a possible upgrade to my rig. And i am sorry for butting in to an alredy existing thread. But was unsure how to go about it, so if any offence is taken i appologise in advance.

At current I am running the following rig,
AUSE P5N-E SLI 650i (Bios version has never been updated so is â€œ0608â€)
Conroe Intel core 2 duo E6300 at 1.86GHZ
1 GB DDR2 PC2-5300 333MHZ (slot 1)
1 GB DDR2 PC2-6400 400MHZ (slot 3)
PNY GeForce 9400 GT 512MB DDR2
500w PSU

Now with this rig and set up I have has kept quite happy and content for the last 4years, mainly in my own little world of Battlefield 2 & 2142. I say last 4 years I havenâ€™t been on in around a year as server space has been so small. But I am very much up to getting back to it upon the release of BattleField 3

But I digress...
I
now have the opportunity to re-fit my whole rig (from the leftovers of some friends who are emigrating and have allowed me to take the pick of bits)
Through the research I have done on several sites and forums I have found info to suggest these parts could be ok on my motherboard.

My proposed rig would be -

AUSE P5N-E SLI 650i (with recommended bios version)
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700 2.66GHz (HH80562PH0678MK) 
4GB 2 x 2GB, Ballistix Tracer DDR2 240-pin, DDR2 PC2-6400 4-4-4-12 , Unbuffered NON-ECC DDR2-800 2.0V 
2 x EVGA Geforce GTX 260 CORE 216 Superclocked in SLI
The best PSU is 750 watts.

And one of the other rigs I am able to cannibalise has a water cooling kit in it (but I am thinking I shall try to get the rig running before I go down that road)â€ walk before runâ€ and all that...

So my questions to you guys would be.....

Do you foresee any problems in running this setup (I assume my old bios will I need to updated?)

What is the potential for overclocking? (One site has suggested that this quad core cpu can be clocked to 3.4GHZ would this be possible on this board)

Any help you can offer is very much appreciated. 
I apologise again if this has been covered in this thread already but it is very sizable and I am slowly working my way through it, but have only got to page 30ish.
Thanks again for taking the time to read this and Iâ€™ll keep you up to date with any suggestions that come through..
Elliott


----------



## turrican9

*ooelliottoo*

In fact, the 0608 bios was the bios that worked best with Q6600's. They could do 3GHz with that bios, but no more. However, later bioses have fixed many of these Quad bugs as far as I know. Seen reports of stable 3.4GHz + in this board with Q6600's using later bioses.

SLI should work fine, however you will block at least two of the four SATA ports. And I'm not sure if angled SATA connectors will help you because of the placements of the Serial ATA connectors. Anyway, two of your SATA ports should be usable with a GTX 260 in the second slot.. You will just have to try.

That also goes for the mem, try it. You never know with this old board.


----------



## UkGouki

when i had this board with my q6600 i got 3.2ghz rock solid stable on it using 0608 bios but it would only let me use 2x 1gb ddr2 800mhz sticks no matter the brand i could never get all 4 slots working on that bios.

just before i sold the board to a mate for £10 with cpu i updated the bios and got it to 3.4ghz and managed to get all 4 slots occupeid with geil ultra's 800mhz 5.5.5.18 t1 timing just cant remember the bios version 12** or 14** were talking 2 years ago now.. i know he no longer has the board it finally gave up the ghost begining of this year he has since gone down the p67 route but my god this was a good solid motherboard when i had it...


----------



## ooelliottoo

Thanks for the quik repies guys.
I will let you kow how i get on... picked possibly the worst day to do my upgrades... the only day i can get of work for it is Fri 13th May ....ahh....hopefully all will go well..


----------



## Kirby1

I had this board for a while and although it ws a good board, it is a real nightmare for quad core OCing.


----------



## memery.uag

Just Introducing myself...haven't been able to read much but would really like to push my system - sounds like you guys really know how to do it!


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *memery.uag*


Just Introducing myself...haven't been able to read much but would really like to push my system - sounds like you guys really know how to do it!


For that CPU I would first try 1333 x9, Vcore at 1.45v, mem Voltage at 1.9v and NB at 1.5v +.


----------



## memery.uag

Thanks for the quick reply! I am having a trouble with my CPU sink though, I took it off a while ago to clean the dust out of it and realized too late that I had no more goo... so I'm pushing temps of 71-72Â°C in just 30 seconds of Ortho.

Plus I've set my Vcore to 1.1500V and CoreTemp is showing it as 1.2500V still. I also had a very hard time finding the timings for my RAM (super talent T8UB1GC5 1GB x 4) so I went with 5,5,5,15. The voltage is listed for that ram as 1.8V but my BIOS will only let me go as low as 1.9***V or AUTO....

When you say try 1333 x9, where do I plug those in? I'm running the latest BIOS 1406 from our buddies at ASUS.....


----------



## Anastasios

so you dont have any thermal paste on your cpu heat sink?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *memery.uag;13506084*
> Thanks for the quick reply! I am having a trouble with my CPU sink though, I took it off a while ago to clean the dust out of it and realized too late that I had no more goo... so I'm pushing temps of 71-72°C in just 30 seconds of Ortho.
> 
> Plus I've set my Vcore to 1.1500V and CoreTemp is showing it as 1.2500V still. I also had a very hard time finding the timings for my RAM (super talent T8UB1GC5 1GB x 4) so I went with 5,5,5,15. The voltage is listed for that ram as 1.8V but my BIOS will only let me go as low as 1.9***V or AUTO....
> 
> When you say try 1333 x9, where do I plug those in? I'm running the latest BIOS 1406 from our buddies at ASUS.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anastasios;13520087*
> so you dont have any thermal paste on your cpu heat sink?


Yeah, if you don't have any thermal paste, I would probably shut that rig down until you get some.


----------



## memery.uag

well, when I accidentally removed the sink, I thought I was only removing the fan from it...oops...I knew I didn't have any paste so I never touched what paste was on it and immediately put it back on. Under stock BIOS settings with my e4400 chip I can only get to about 30 seconds with Ortho before I hit 70 degrees C and up. And I'm thinking that's really not so good. Unfortunately I'm in Mexico and good thermal paste may as well be on the moon.

So there is some paste there, its just the factory paste and it's been separated and reseated.


----------



## Anastasios

So there are no computer stores in mexico? I highly doubt that and I am sure you could buy some arctic silver from somewhere online.

it costs nothing, seriously get some asap.


----------



## memery.uag

Okay So I got some thermal paste, it was the only stuff available so I hope it's good enough. It's white and thick, I expected something silver. My question is I notice that the contact foot on the bottom of the heat sink is round and doesn't cover the corners of the chip. My sink and fan is an Intel DTC-AAR01 and the chip is LGA775 E4400. I'm thinking that a sink with a square foot or at least a round one that covers the chip from corner to corner would be more efficacious. Any thoughts?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *memery.uag*


Okay So I got some thermal paste, it was the only stuff available so I hope it's good enough. It's white and thick, I expected something silver. My question is I notice that the contact foot on the bottom of the heat sink is round and doesn't cover the corners of the chip. My sink and fan is an Intel DTC-AAR01 and the chip is LGA775 E4400. I'm thinking that a sink with a square foot or at least a round one that covers the chip from corner to corner would be more efficacious. Any thoughts?


What you're seeing as the CPU is actually just the heatspreader on top of the CPU. The CPU die is much smaller and in center, below the heatspreader. So you're fine, even if the base of the heatsink do not cover the corners of the heatspreader.


----------



## memery.uag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;13553078*
> What you're seeing as the CPU is actually just the heatspreader on top of the CPU. The CPU die is much smaller and in center, below the heatspreader. So you're fine, even if the base of the heatsink do not cover the corners of the heatspreader.


Thanks for the input all. I got the silicon based paste on my CPU and it's cooling a little better now. I still get temps into the 80's under full load after 20 or 30 seconds though. I believe my CPU is rated for 85C so I watch the temp closely.

If I could get my hands on some metallic based grease, how much cooler should I expect it to be?

I've also pushed my FSB up to 1100 and am getting a clock reading of 2750GHz, although I've enabled the Intel stepping feature to help keep her cool. I rarely demand full load from the CPU so it works very well. It's unlinked with my memory @ 800. Everything seems pretty stable and considering it's only silicon grease, my NB hasn't been reset and my SB has no cooler at all I think it's got more potential.

Thoughts?


----------



## BLinc

Hi everyone I need some help trying to get a stable 3.5 or 3.6 OC on my E5200.

Here is my CPU-Z for what i've currently been trying to run it at 

280 * 12.5 (FSB is 1120Mhz ) I haven't run it through prime or orthos yet, but it has been fine for 2 days with just normal use but if it becomes under load during gaming the whole system freezes. If i try to change the Multiplier to a lower number i either don't post or get an error and then the only way to recover the system is to pop out the CMOS


----------



## Christiaan

Did you bump up your vcore?

I had a E2140 OC from 1.6GHz to 2.92GHz. FSB of 365*8-1460 with 1.3v pumping through it.

Also make sure you're not overclocking your RAM. Set to unlinked.
Can also try one or 2 notches (up to 1.5v) on the chipset, though your FSB isn't really high so should be fine. At that FSB you can set it to the 1.2v setting.

Generally what you want to do is, set your vcore to say 1.1v (with the mv something can't remember now xD, set it to +100mv, adds 0.1v) and then do small step ups in your FSB. Run prime, if it fails in 5 minutes, move the vcore one or two steps up. If it doesn't fail move the FSB up. Don't go over 1.3v (with +100mv you're sitting @ 1.4v) I wouldn't go higher than that. Of course temp also plays a role. See what OC you can fit into a sub 60 degree (full prime load, under 1.4v) setting.

Once you're happy with your OC run prime for 24 hours. Once passed bask in your accomplishment.


----------



## NadaX7

Hi, i guess this is some pretty old question, its is about the Q6600 and asus p5n-e sli ...

I take some spec first:
EDIT: i got this fan to cpu: Zalman CNPS9700 NT CPU Kjøler
Cabinet: antec nine hundred all fans on high
PSU: i think its a coolmaster, 750W or 800W
BIOS: 0608
video card: Nvidia Asus 570GTX
Memory: 2x2GB OCZ Gold XTC OCZ2G8002G
Windows: Windows 7 64bit

Well, heres is my story, i upgraded my 2x8800GTS 320 mb with the 570GTX, and dosent want to upgrade Motherboard, cpu and ram, because in 5 months i be away for a year from the computer (because of military) So i thought i would like to clock my q6600 to 3.0Ghz to get the bootleneck down a little, but i just CANT do it, i have tryd so many things, things that many say work perfect etc.

If i try the Vcore 1.31875, FSB 1333 and memory at 667mhz and 800mhz
Timing 4-4-4-12-1 and 2 core with 667 and 800mhz, when i run the pc, i get to the desktop, 15 sec later the pc shut down and restarts, i have tryd the 5-5-5-15-1 and 2 core, same thing happen.

I have tryd lesser fsb, like 2.6Ghz if i do this my pc get to desktop and its just freeze up.
Only thing i can get to work is AI overclock 5% 2.51Ghz, AI overklock 10% and up just freeze up at desktop.

But can someone please try to help me with the manuly clock problem?

I am btw ALL new to overclock, but its so frustrating that i have tryd the same setting as many of you who can make it work, but i dossent work for me, i can start the pc all the way to desktop, and than black screen and restart.

Thanks!


----------



## Christiaan

Only thing I can say is forget about overclocking your Q6600 on this board.
I have a Q6600 as well (sig rig) and can't overclock it at all.

I've tried numerous settings, but sooner or later stability issues creep in.
Some guys in this thread claimed to get overclocks stable, but they all agree this board sucks for quads. I've had a crash on as little as 90MHz overclock. This board rocks for dual cores though.

Best of luck if you want to keep trying, I've spent many late nights trying to OC this thing.


----------



## NadaX7

Crap








But buying a core 2 duo is kinda stupid now right?
I can get a Intel Core™ 2 Duo E8600 3,33GHz for 248 dollar / 151 pounds / 173 Euro
But i guess, even if it is a 3.33 and mayby easy to clock? it still get kicked by I5/I7?

I get like 20-30FPS averege on Crysis (every thing on very high) and thats pretty bad for the 570 GTX, so i guess the q6600 keep my machin down, I have to almost play on medium on Bad company 2(on online, not singel), GTA IV i HAVE to play on medium and down.

Kinda sucks when you have a display card witch can preform much better!
The cheapst way to get socket 1156 and Drr3 ram + I7 2600K is 743 dollar / 453 pounds / 520 euro, and thats to much for only 5 months (Norways pretty expensive!)


----------



## Christiaan

Yeah, I wouldn't. You could always look for another mobo instead.


----------



## Jow

Hi guys and gals this is my 1st post and I am a new overclocker so go easy please. I read some information on how to O.C. and used the guide on page 1 as a basis for my process. Built this pc 4-5 years ago so I finally decided to give this a go.

My results...
















I got my e6600 from 2.4ghz to 3.2ghz, but my vcore/temp is as high as I'm comfortable with. Full load using Orthos, it maxes at 60 deg C. Its ran for an hour using Orthos and tonight it was still on overnight.

My question is: How to people get these so high? Is it my Mobo? I've read about people getting this chip to 3.2 under stock Vcore, and then I look at mine. I'm using the latest BIOS version - someone said I should find which bios are best for O.C.'ing.

Any input or thoughts is appreciated!


----------



## kmouze

glad i'm on this p5nesli train! also, for me everytime on boot says checksum default loaded and i gotta go into bios and load up my overclocked file ugh such a hassle lol


----------



## paulkemp

Awesome to see this tread alive! I was just googling around when i found it. i just happen to have a Q6600 as well







Very nice indeed. My current tower doesnt allow any oc'ing as the northbridge get's to varm. But im planning to buy the Fractal Design Black Pearl cause i need a more quiet tower. With better cooling i recon i can aslo take a cleanup of the mobo and the heatpipes of my Noctua. Any tips for a fan with better air-pushing-capabilites anyone (better than the fan that comes with the Noctua that is)? And then finally oc the cpu. I saw yesterday that the cpu gets to around 60C while playing Counter Strike Source and, with normal load it's around 40C . Measured with RealTemp. Anyway, i'll continue to follow you other guys. Good luck

Define R3 Black Pearl - http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=48

Noctua NH-U12F - http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...ts_id=6&lng=en

Some small update for me, it's getting hot in here. I guess i have to take a look at the cooler









 

_edit: typos and cleanup_


----------



## NadaX7

*paulkemp
How do you get it to run at these speeds?
settings you use?


----------



## paulkemp

To get 1:1 i used 600 on the ram (since its ddr 2 that actually means 300). Everything else on auto. That leaves the cpu to 4 * 300 = 1200 (since its 4 cores). Everything else on cpu as well auto. It didnt really work due the high temps. And also, a 8,8% increase in cpu is not really worth it. Since i really only got it to work on 2.7ghz







We need some experienced guys here.


----------



## NadaX7

I HATE this mobo, i tryed the same setting as you, the temp is FINE , but this crap machine keeps frezzing 30 sec after loadin the desktop , i dont get it, is it that i have 4 GB ram? i tryd 10-20 diffrent setting, only thing woking without frezzing 30 sec in desktop, is the AI 5% overclock YEY.

on my ddr 2 OCZ Gold XTC OCZ2G8002G there is on the side a note(on the part / chip) with timing "5-5-5-18" is this what i want to use under overclock? still think its gone frezze at desktop, like everytime else.


----------



## paulkemp

Not sure what you should do. Take comfort in that the q6600 is still good at 2.4. This machine is turning into a virtualization host when I'm done with it. The CPU is great for those things

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## AGENT_WD40

EDIT

does 1:1 fsb/dram ratio really matter on this board?


----------



## AGENT_WD40

this is the highest stable oc i could get on my C2D, pretty impressive considering it has stock cooling on cpu and mobo.


----------



## BerkaLurk

Quick question for anyone out there:
I have been trying to get my E8400 to OC at 3.6 with a 1600 fsb. The problem is that even though I might be prime95 and orthos stable for 10 hours, when I play a game like Starcraft 2 (which i hear is cpu intensive) my rig will completely freeze at random points playing the game. When I say the computer freezes, I mean that everything is frozen on the screen and the sound loops the last .5 seconds of audio over and over.

I have a vcore of 1.35 with memory timings of 4-4-4-12-22 (corsair xms ddr2). I havent tried the vdroop mod (the pencil thing) yet. When I try to run the rig at 3.4 at i think 1500fsb (15:16 ratio) everything is super duper stable even in SC2.

My question is: what is causing these freezes when I make the leap to 3.6? Is my ram holding me back? I have the memory voltage set to auto and I think my ram is rated at 2.1v? Do I need a higher vcore? When it comes to vcore, what is considered too high before you risk frying your processor (I have a GeminiiS cooler master cooler)? Any answers would be highly appreciated!


----------



## Faeriol

@AGENT_WD40: That's the highiest I reached to on stock cooling with this mobo. Bought a new Q8400 'cause I needed more power...
Actually proved stable at 3.4Ghz, 3.5testing right now















@BerkaLurk: Intel recommands not going over 1.36v for warranty. Think I read in the thread not to go over 1.4v, and personally setting it to 1.4 which ends up giving 1.36-1.392 on load even with vDroop pencil mod applied.

Thinking of it: 3.5ghz with a 45nm quad on this board? I'm lucky it seems...


----------



## Anastasios

Hey guys, Im back in this thread.

Now that BF3 is out, I want to be able to play it on ultra settings and I am planning to upgrade things.

Atm my E4300 is OC from 1.8 to 3ghz, will this be okay to run BF3 or should I be looking to upgrade to a quad and then OC that CPU?

Or just leave the quad stock?


----------



## Anastasios

If I do go to a quad I would be looking at the QX 9650 and leaving it stock


----------



## Balsagna

I'd just spend the money and upgrade to Sandy Bridge.


----------



## Cyrious

Greetings fellow overclockers!

Ive managed to strike a deal with XPD541 to get his P5N-E board for $50 shipped, and one of the things that worry me is potential memory incompatibility. Ive looked over the memory list in the first post, and my sticks arent up there. What are the odds of the sticks (check my sig rig) working?

Is there any other critical info i may need to know? When i get this board i will transfer over my trusty E5300, the GT430 into PCI-E 1, the ram, and put my GT240 into PCI-E 2 @ 1x (if it will work like that). I plan on doing either a 400x10 or, if im lucky, a 500x8 overclock once everything is up and ready to rock.


----------



## djbarney

Hello









I have had cooling issues with my Asus P5N-E SLI MB + Intel Quad Core Q6600 & Thermaltake TMG i1. I'm a musician and am trying to make as quiet a system as possible. I had a mod applied to my Nvidia 9800GX to remove the fan and add a heatsink specifically for this GFX card. However despite this noise levels have still been bad. I have diagnosed a badly installed cpu fan (the Thermaltake). It's facing the wrong way. It should be sucking in air from outside the case. At the moment it's drawing in heated air from inside the case and blowing back into the case ! I need to move it around so I can get it to suck in air from my rear case vent (possibly with an air flow guide attached). New thermal paste will be needed as well.

What I want to know is this.

1. I am calibrating the sys for undervolting as well. What are the known issues for undervolting on this MB ?

2. At first I was blaming Q-Fan for turning everything into a jet engine. Looks like this has had more to do with a badly engineered case layout. But are there any known issues on this board with Q-Fan ?

3. I am not experienced with thermal paste. What is the recommended paste and procedure ?

So, hoping for the that sound of silence ..







.


----------



## Christiaan

@Overclockers
Grats guys, nice clocks. Almost can't believe that OC on the quad, but good job. I've had no success in overclocking mine.

@Anastasios
I had a E2140 overclocked to 2.9GHz and got relatively poor performance in BC2 (low 30s in the heaviest parts), upgraded to a Q6600 which resulted in a slight fps increase, but not much, mainly clockspeed issue.
BF3 will most likely result in a similar experience.

This board doesn't like overclocking quads very much. As for the QX9650, as far as I know it's not in the support list officially, but just make sure of that, but as Balsagna said, rather just get a Sandy B setup. Even if you go for the cheapest mobo and CPU @ stock, it'll rock the socks off whatever this mobo can do.

@Cyrious
There shouldn't be a issue, though I can't say with 100% certainty.

@djbarney

1. As far as undervolting, just run the CPU at the lowest stable voltage. With regards to the Q6600 though, I run mine @ 1.25v with stock speeds. Any overclock is proved unstable at some point. It also drops to 1.15v+- on full load. Very bad drop. No pencil mod applied.
2. Dunno.








3. I use Arctic Silver 5 and just put about a 2mm diameter ball on my CPU and bolt on the Zalman. (Sig rig)


----------



## scheibler

When I try to downgrade my 0901 bios to 0608 via the floppy DOS method it says I cannot downgrade bios! How can I downgrade? I need to oc my Q6600


----------



## szczotex

Well, you guys probably know everything about this mobo as this thread is almost 1000 (WOW!) pages long, but I managed to get my q6600 to 3.0 on p5n-e sli pretty easily so I will share my experiences anyway.

@Christiaan
Is there any particular reason you want to stick with the latest bios? Famous 0608 is really the best for q6600. I couldn't attain 3.0 with any other (though didn't try very hard as with 0608 it is straight away). It has some RAM issues, i.e running 4 sticks at 800MHz is impossible but I have my 4 sticks of geil ultra 800 CL4 running @ 667 CL3 so performance drop is hardly visible there if it is at all. Everything on AUTO apart from RAM voltage and timings and fsb of course.

@scheibler
To downgrade the bios use awdflash with /f option

I'm happy to see others still running this mobo as I think this is in spite of it's deficiencies a really good board


----------



## Cyrious

Is there any way for me to break the 313mhz FSB wall i have encountered? Ive tried everything i know of to try and break it and yet nothing works. My target FSB is 333mhz (400 is too far away). Should i toss the 2GB kit of ram i have installed and see if doing that helps?


----------



## turrican9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious;15509028*
> Is there any way for me to break the 313mhz FSB wall i have encountered? Ive tried everything i know of to try and break it and yet nothing works. My target FSB is 333mhz (400 is too far away). Should i toss the 2GB kit of ram i have installed and see if doing that helps?


Try 12 x333. I had this board several years ago, and a E4300.... Anything from 300 and closer to 333FSB would not boot. FSB holes.

However, 333FSB and up worked perfectly.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turrican9;15509080*
> Try 12 x333. I had this board several years ago, and a E4300.... Anything from 300 and closer to 333FSB would not boot. FSB holes.
> 
> However, 333FSB and up worked perfectly.


any particular memory strap that gets me higher stability (besides 1:1)?


----------



## terryg

Hi,

I've been using this motherboard for 4 years or so with a Core 2 Duo 3.0Ghz, and it has been great. I am currently using 2 x 1GB of the Corsair CM2X1024-6400C4 DDR2 800 which I purchased back with the motherboard. I had to run the Memory voltage up to 1.9v for it to run properly and it has given me years of perfect service.

Though now I believe I am having a memory problem where the computer simply locks up at random times. I pulled a memory stick out and started swapping between the two sticks. I did find when 1 particular memory stick is installed, it causes the random lockup. The other stick, I can use in any slot and it seems to be stable.

So now I am in the market for some new memory. I know this motherboard is very picky with the memory type as well as the configuration. I tried searching this thread, but for some reason no results every come up. And the Asus compatibility list is pretty old.

Tried searching memory, RAM, and other common words, but no results. Maybe because I am a new user the feature is not available, or I am not using it correct.

I would like to see what the maximum memory is for this board (user tested, not the board specs). I am running windows XP. I have a pretty old Bios on their, but will be upgrading to the 1406. I don't need to overclock, and am happy with the speed of the processor. Just want a bit more memory than the 2GB I originally had.

Thanks for any help.

Terry


----------



## terryg

... sorry, forum kept saying their was an error submitting my message so I re-submitted it three times only to find that all 3 posted!! Feel like a forum newbie, but have been using them for years. Oh well.


----------



## wumpus

DDR2 is not sold in any retail channels anymore so you are going to be forced to buy some from craigslist or off of a forum.


----------



## terryg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wumpus*
> 
> DDR2 is not sold in any retail channels anymore so you are going to be forced to buy some from craigslist or off of a forum.


Not sure if I completely understand. DDR2 800Mhz seems to be readily available from multiple sources.

I was looking at these two module kits which seems to be compatible with this MB from some of the research I have been doing today.

Crucial CT2KIT25664AA800

and

G.Skill F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ

Seems like there is a bit more info on the G.Skill so I was leaning towards that. Though it seems like I should stay away from using 4 modules and stick with just 2 modules. All I'm looking for is 4GB. Not sure if XP will see al 4, but I'll give it a try.

Sorry if I misunderstood your statement. But thanks for the quick reply.

Terry


----------



## ibi-ubu

I have a quick question, or so I hope:
I just bought a Core2quad q8400 cpu, and want to install it on my p5n-e...
I tried doing this, but the computer would not get past the "slpashscreen" in the boot-process, so I removed the new cpu and put the old one (1,86 ghz) back in.
I realized I had not updated the BIOS in quite som time, so I did this.
Are there any settings I should change in the BIOS as I install my Q8400, or can i just keep everything on "Auto" as long as I`m not OC-ing?

Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibi-ubu*
> 
> I have a quick question, or so I hope:
> I just bought a Core2quad q8400 cpu, and want to install it on my p5n-e...
> I tried doing this, but the computer would not get past the "slpashscreen" in the boot-process, so I removed the new cpu and put the old one (1,86 ghz) back in.
> I realized I had not updated the BIOS in quite som time, so I did this.
> Are there any settings I should change in the BIOS as I install my Q8400, or can i just keep everything on "Auto" as long as I`m not OC-ing?
> Thanks in advance for any help.


as long as you dont overclock you should be fine


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szczotex*
> 
> @Christiaan
> Is there any particular reason you want to stick with the latest bios? Famous 0608 is really the best for q6600. I couldn't attain 3.0 with any other (though didn't try very hard as with 0608 it is straight away). It has some RAM issues, i.e running 4 sticks at 800MHz is impossible but I have my 4 sticks of geil ultra 800 CL4 running @ 667 CL3 so performance drop is hardly visible there if it is at all. Everything on AUTO apart from RAM voltage and timings and fsb of course.


No particular reason. Didn't actually know there was a version that would allow me to OC my quad?
Someone might have posted it, but since there has been so many posts over time, easily missed I suppose.

I'll see about downgrading... but was already nervous the first time I upgraded my BIOS.








Is there a way to reset the BIOS if the update goes wrong?

I should be fine on the RAM side, only have 667MHz sticks.


----------



## djbarney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christiaan*
> 
> @djbarney
> 1. As far as undervolting, just run the CPU at the lowest stable voltage. With regards to the Q6600 though, I run mine @ 1.25v with stock speeds. Any overclock is proved unstable at some point. It also drops to 1.15v+- on full load. Very bad drop. No pencil mod applied.
> 2. Dunno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. I use Arctic Silver 5 and just put about a 2mm diameter ball on my CPU and bolt on the Zalman. (Sig rig)


Undervolting my cpu/board never really worked. In fact the board failed soon after ... possibly due to the undervolting because I think the board had always been faulty. My new Gigabyte board has the nvidia and cpu running cooler. I think they are now being given the correct voltages, it's not just the new thermal paste I used. My Asus board was occasionally hanging at BIOS POST. It ran very hot (another possible reason for high cpu/nvidia temps). Basically I wonder if the Asus design is very muddy compared to the Gigabyte GA-G41MT-S2PT ... but I think my board was originally in bad shape with unstable/inaccurate voltages going to the the CPU. I have not exactly proved all this, but if anyone is having odd problems with voltages or components running too hot then I'd suggest considering that you have a board that did not come out the factory as well tuned as it should have been.


----------



## szczotex

@Christiaan

Yes, BIOS update is always a bit scary








There is a thing called The ASUS CrashFree BIOS 2, which is mentioned in p5n-e specification, so apparently there is a chance for BIOS recovery if the update goes wrong. I can't tell more about this, I didn't need to use that.


----------



## sjaakwortel

I recently started ocing with this board. (specs, Core 2 duo e6750, 4gb ddr2-800 ram, HD4870 on the p5ne-sli board). After some moderate tweaking i ended up with the cpu running at 3.2 ghz and the standard Vcore, but when i try to raise the fbs further it just stops(just boot failure). Having a decent watercool set i hoped to push this cpu a bit further (3.6ghz).

So when gaming i realised that the nb heatsink was getting really (burnt my finger), so i wanted to change this heatsink to a waterblock, but the heatsink is stuck, i just cant get it loose, even when i let the pc run for a couple min so the cooling past would be become softer, it doest move anything.

Some1 got tips on both issues ?


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szczotex*
> 
> @Christiaan
> Yes, BIOS update is always a bit scary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a thing called The ASUS CrashFree BIOS 2, which is mentioned in p5n-e specification, so apparently there is a chance for BIOS recovery if the update goes wrong. I can't tell more about this, I didn't need to use that.


Ah, that's a nice feature. Don't remember that. lol
Well, I did try to downgrade, but with no success. I tried the method in this post. Downgrading BIOS

I used the supplied ISO to make a disc to boot from. Problem is, it says no devices detected when loading up the boot software. After booting from it I get the following.

Something along the lines of a drive has boot files, r drive has utilities. Trying to access r drive, says invalid drive. So I'm stuck at this point. Maybe because I'm using a USB DVD Drive?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjaakwortel*
> 
> I recently started ocing with this board. (specs, Core 2 duo e6750, 4gb ddr2-800 ram, HD4870 on the p5ne-sli board). After some moderate tweaking i ended up with the cpu running at 3.2 ghz and the standard Vcore, but when i try to raise the fbs further it just stops(just boot failure). Having a decent watercool set i hoped to push this cpu a bit further (3.6ghz).
> So when gaming i realised that the nb heatsink was getting really (burnt my finger), so i wanted to change this heatsink to a waterblock, but the heatsink is stuck, i just cant get it loose, even when i let the pc run for a couple min so the cooling past would be become softer, it doest move anything.
> Some1 got tips on both issues ?


You should be able to get more out of that CPU. It could be a strap? Try raising it a couple of notches more. I managed 2.92GHz on a E2140 @ 1460FSB. I'm sure you can do waaaaay better with that little beasty CPU.

My NB heatsink came off without a hitch, I then replaced the thermal compound with AS5. Mine gets extremely hot even with stock clocks. I do have a mini-fan around here somewhere which I'm contemplating of strapping on there somehow if I manage to pull off 3GHz or near with my quad when I downgrade the BIOS.


----------



## sjaakwortel

That was my conclusion too, the cpu never gets hotter than 40C (and thats without fans on my radiator), but im really worried about the NB temperature, from the feeling its about 90C, and i cant solve that with the heatsink stuck.


----------



## Christiaan

Okay, this is really bugging me now.

Regarding that method I posted earlier to downgrade the BIOS.

It's driving me nuts! As I mentioned, it won't detect any devices, causing me not to have access to the awdflash utility.

I tried the disc I made on another PC with a SATA DVD drive. *drumroll* It worked! Amazing...
So I figured. This now proves it's my USB DVD drive that's the issue. So I move the SATA DVD drive to my PC. Boot it up... *drumroll* Same issue!

I've reset to BIOS defaults, I've disabled all the harddrives, plugged out the USB DVD drive. It just refuses to work on my PC.
It must be a sign that I shouldn't downgrade my BIOS. lol

I'm out of ideas at this point.


----------



## szczotex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christiaan*
> 
> Okay, this is really bugging me now.
> Regarding that method I posted earlier to downgrade the BIOS.
> It's driving me nuts! As I mentioned, it won't detect any devices, causing me not to have access to the awdflash utility.
> I tried the disc I made on another PC with a SATA DVD drive. *drumroll* It worked! Amazing...
> So I figured. This now proves it's my USB DVD drive that's the issue. So I move the SATA DVD drive to my PC. Boot it up... *drumroll* Same issue!
> I've reset to BIOS defaults, I've disabled all the harddrives, plugged out the USB DVD drive. It just refuses to work on my PC.
> It must be a sign that I shouldn't downgrade my BIOS. lol
> I'm out of ideas at this point.


The problem is probably that your bootcd has no SATA drivers.
Check this out: http://www.answersthatwork.com/Download_Area/Downrights/Win98SE_Boot_CD_US_SATA_CDROM.zip

As far as I know the p5n-e BIOS doesn't have an option to set SATA devices work as IDE devices that would allow to detect them with standard CD-ROM drivers. It's called SATA mode or something along these lines and maybe is set on your antoher PC.


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szczotex*
> 
> The problem is probably that your bootcd has no SATA drivers.
> Check this out: http://www.answersthatwork.com/Download_Area/Downrights/Win98SE_Boot_CD_US_SATA_CDROM.zip
> 
> As far as I know the p5n-e BIOS doesn't have an option to set SATA devices work as IDE devices that would allow to detect them with standard CD-ROM drivers. It's called SATA mode or something along these lines and maybe is set on your antoher PC.


Well, the other PC is a good few years older than this one and also begs the question, how the guys in the thread I linked got it working on the same mobo? But thank you. Will check it out.

*edit*

Tried to boot from it. Says no device driver detected.

*edit 2* !

Alrighty.

So did some searching. Found a utility to make my usb thumb drive bootable. It worked. Yay.
I then found that simply using the /f didn't work. It simply made awdflash freeze. After some more searching, here is what worked.
awdflash xxxx.bin /py /sn /cc /cd /cp /r /f

Success!

Now, I didn't get as good a result as I hoped for, but the result was good nonetheless. I went straight for 3GHz/1333FSB with 1.3v and 1.5xxv on the NB. Won't boot. Tried 1.7xxv on the NB, no go. Decided to back down to 2.7GHz/1200FSB with 1.3v and 1.5xxv on the NB. That worked. Tried 2.8GHz, no go. Went back to 2.7GHz, dropped vcore to 1.25v and NB to 1.3xxv. So far I only ran prime for an hour and played SC2 for an hour. Seems stable. *crosses thumbs*

This is far better than I got with the latest BIOS. PC wouldn't even boot with the above 2.7GHz setting. So overall, pretty pleased with the result. I'll see how much I can get out of it, I'll edge my way to 2.8GHz till it stops working, but for now will run this speed and see if I get any issues.


----------



## Christiaan

Well. I'll just say thank you for all the input, but this didn't work out. lol

Did 2 hour prime run, no problems.

Then I played some Crysis 2 TDM. Second round, about 20 minutes total play time. Blue screen.

Reset, go to BIOS, increase voltage. Played Starcraft 2 now. First game, about 15 minutes in SC2 crashes. Second game, halfway through my sound mysteriously disappears. Was chatting to my friend on TS at the time as well. Just all sound, game and TS cut out. Thought okay, I'll continue the game. Few minutes later, SC2 crashed.

It's clear to me, my board does not like overclocking quads. It's good that others had success with this BIOS, but I am not one of them. I've seen similar symptoms on the 1406 BIOS when I overclocked as well. So seems the same issue persists no matter what BIOS version I run.

So I'll just go back to my happy stock self and my 1406 BIOS.


----------



## szczotex

A bit of a shame the 0608 BIOS didn't pay off for you. It seems all the work for nothing. Going to the newest BIOS seems reasonable now.


----------



## Christiaan

And so we learn.









Next time will do a lot of research to make sure I don't mess up like I did here.


----------



## Segovax

What is the distance between the SB HS mounting holes?

Would this HS work? It is compatible with 54.6mm and 59mm.

Also wondering about the best solution for VREG cooling and NB cooling, that would be easily attainable nowadays.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Segovax*
> 
> What is the distance between the SB HS mounting holes?
> Would this HS work? It is compatible with 54.6mm and 59mm.
> Also wondering about the best solution for VREG cooling and NB cooling, that would be easily attainable nowadays.


that heatsink should work nicely. Vreg heatsinks i cant help you with but the northbridge could use this to help with the heat issues.


----------



## Segovax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Segovax*
> 
> What is the distance between the SB HS mounting holes?
> Would this HS work? It is compatible with 54.6mm and 59mm.
> Also wondering about the best solution for VREG cooling and NB cooling, that would be easily attainable nowadays.
> 
> 
> 
> that heatsink should work nicely. Vreg heatsinks i cant help you with but the northbridge could use this to help with the heat issues.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help, do you know the exact measurement of the mounting holes on that board? I actually picked up a used Thermaltake Extreme Spirit II on the cheap, pretty lucky I found one.

Do the VREGs and MOSFETs need heatsinks on this board? I will be doing some amount of overclocking, board and chip will tell how much.


----------



## ltrevo

Hi, is there anyone with this motherboard running with HD 6850? Just bought a HD6850 yesterday and when i plug in, no post and give 1 long and 3 short beeps.

After searching around the internet, found this mb have problem with newer hd 6000 series card. Is this true or i just got a DOA card.


----------



## memery.uag

I was having some elevated temps on my NB after cranking up the juice to 1.5xx too. I took the whole MB out to put on a new CPU sink and decided to lap it down first, then got crazy and lapped the CPU, the VGA sink and took off the NB sink and lapped it too. The TIM on all components is terrible. I reseated the NB with AS5 and my temps now never go over 40°C but usually hang at 35°C which is more than 10 degrees lower than before the lapping and AS5.


----------



## AGENT_WD40

anyone has this board running stable with 2x2gb crucial ballistix tracer 6400?,

it will run fine with 1 stick but as soon as i try it in dual channel the pc wont boot passed post or gives a random bsod in windows.

edit

1 of the ballistix stick went bad so i will RMA them. but the board refuses to boot with 4x1gb of corsair 6400C4, 3 sticks works fine though.


----------



## Jaxis

im curious if its safe to bump the northbridge voltage from 1.39, to 1.56... im hitting a wall in overclocking and im thinking its the northbridge or just the absolute max for this board.. i've resetted the heatsink on the northbridge and have an 80mm fan blowing on it and its idles around 53 degrees.


----------



## AGENT_WD40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaxis*
> 
> im curious if its safe to bump the northbridge voltage from 1.39, to 1.56... im hitting a wall in overclocking and im thinking its the northbridge or just the absolute max for this board.. i've resetted the heatsink on the northbridge and have an 80mm fan blowing on it and its idles around 53 degrees.


yes it is safe to run the NB at 1.56 but don't expect any stable increased OC from doing so. just my experience with this board ^^


----------



## Christiaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaxis*
> 
> im curious if its safe to bump the northbridge voltage from 1.39, to 1.56... im hitting a wall in overclocking and im thinking its the northbridge or just the absolute max for this board.. i've resetted the heatsink on the northbridge and have an 80mm fan blowing on it and its idles around 53 degrees.


As said, it's safe. From my own experience, I had a E2140 running the FSB at 1460 (365), needed 1.56 to get it stable.







Run like that for about 2 and a half years before switching to a quad that I can't overclock.







Had this board for almost 5 years now and still rock stable.


----------



## Kega

Does anyone know if this board plays well with SSDs? Specifically, a 256GB Crucial M4 SSD. I can't find an AHCI option in the bios... Has anyone had success with a P5N-E + SSD setup? If so, what SSD and were there any special steps that needed to be taken, or was it just "plug in and enjoy"?


----------



## bourne-no longer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kega*
> 
> Does anyone know if this board plays well with SSDs? Specifically, a 256GB Crucial M4 SSD. I can't find an AHCI option in the bios... Has anyone had success with a P5N-E + SSD setup? If so, what SSD and were there any special steps that needed to be taken, or was it just "plug in and enjoy"?


I had a corsair ssd with this board previously and it wasn't good. But I discovered it was a problem with the ssd. I since switched to the crucial m4 128GB version and it has been flawless. It accepts the ssd fine. I think ahci is just a best practice if your board supports it. But it isn't mandatory for the ssd to function

Sent from Galaxy Nexus


----------



## Kega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bourne-no longer*
> 
> I had a corsair ssd with this board previously and it wasn't good. But I discovered it was a problem with the ssd. I since switched to the crucial m4 128GB version and it has been flawless. It accepts the ssd fine. I think ahci is just a best practice if your board supports it. But it isn't mandatory for the ssd to function
> Sent from Galaxy Nexus


That's a relief to hear. Now that I know it works, I'd like to know how well it works.







Do you have the read/write speeds for your m4? I figure the SATA II port and no AHCI will severely limit SSD performance. I'm considering buying an SSD but not sure if the costly upgrade is worth it if the limited speeds on this board aren't going to be a huge improvement over HDD.


----------



## bourne-no longer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kega*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bourne-no longer*
> 
> I had a corsair ssd with this board previously and it wasn't good. But I discovered it was a problem with the ssd. I since switched to the crucial m4 128GB version and it has been flawless. It accepts the ssd fine. I think ahci is just a best practice if your board supports it. But it isn't mandatory for the ssd to function
> Sent from Galaxy Nexus
> 
> 
> 
> That's a relief to hear. Now that I know it works, I'd like to know how well it works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the read/write speeds for your m4? I figure the SATA II port and no AHCI will severely limit SSD performance. I'm considering buying an SSD but not sure if the costly upgrade is worth it if the limited speeds on this board aren't going to be a huge improvement over HDD.
Click to expand...

That's a good question. To be honest with you I haven't done any bench marking. I have though notices a difference in day to day operations, like launching applications is way faster. But in terms in like raw performance numbers I don't have any. It might be a worth while upgrade though because of you decide to upgrade your computer you can always keep the ssd. I can try and get some numbers for you though. Just have to find the program everyone uses on this site for their hdd bench marks

Sent from Galaxy Nexus


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## Kega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bourne-no longer*
> 
> That's a good question. To be honest with you I haven't done any bench marking. I have though notices a difference in day to day operations, like launching applications is way faster. But in terms in like raw performance numbers I don't have any. It might be a worth while upgrade though because of you decide to upgrade your computer you can always keep the ssd. I can try and get some numbers for you though. Just have to find the program everyone uses on this site for their hdd bench marks
> Sent from Galaxy Nexus


Please post your benchmarks when you get a chance. I am getting horrific speeds on the ADATA Pro Premier 256GB SSD I just got on this mobo. AS SSD benchmark shows seq. read and write at low 100MB/S speeds. I tried updating the firmware but it didnt help. Device manager is also showing the SSD as SATA 1.5 for some reason too. Are you using Nvidia's drivers for the controller or microsoft's? I'm curious if my SSD is just bad or this mobo just does the same for all SSDs.


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## RX7-2nr

Ha, my old system wears this board. I didnt even know there was a specific thread for it, im a couple years late to the party.


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## thescreensavers

My 212+ is on its way, I surprisingly had the coolermaster blue ice sitting in my house. I lapped it for fun(was bored), And I put a 80mm fan on my Northbrige. It was hitting 52C on idle now its seeing 38c with the Fan.

Cant wait to see how far I can push this Q6600 (G0) heh. This thread is super helpful.


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## Kega

Well I have had zero luck getting my SSD to play nice with nForce on this board. Tried different cables, ports, drivers, bios versions.... but the SSD is still incorrectly running as a SATA 1 device. My next attempt will be to use the e-sata port with the jmicron controller. Before I go out to buy an e-sata->sata cable, does anyone know if this port is bootable or not?


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## keih12

Hi,

I'm new to this forum, but have recently discovered dpawl's excellent thread. Along with another couple of guides (Tribeca + Diddler1979)

I've had a steady OC on my system. Although the system is quite dated now, it still plays most games how i'd like them.(

Specs:
Windows 7 Service Pack 1 (64bit)
Q6600 (GO, 1.3v Stock) @3ghz
Asus P5NE-sli 650i (currently unlinked, FSB 1333, 667 1:1 Ratio)
4gb Crucial Ballistic (2 x 2gb) PC6400
500gb WD HD
Zotac gtx560ti
550w CWT PSU (with 2 x 12v, rails each with 22amps I think!)
Cooler Master Heatsink fan - Looks like a hyper212, but not sure, definatley a cooler master) Cant get at it for a proper look.

I've been having some stability issues lately, particularly when trying to push beyond 3ghz. I'm running bios 0608 at the moment, but have tried them all (0608 seems to be the only one to get my quad to a decent 3ghz)

Memtest has run for 6 hours and didn't show any errors. Timing for ram is set to 4-4-4-12-24(trc) @ 2.013 v.
Vcore is 1.325 at the moment, vcore offset +100mv.

The memory seems to be perfectly stable. I can game for hours without any issues (BF3 right now, which can push the system a little),
Core temp has my idle temps at high 20's to low 30's. Under load it is mid to high 40's, low 50's. (centigrade).

As mentioned wanted to push my G0 a little bit further, but have had no success. Even a smidge past 3 ghz, and running prime95 crashes. It doesn't BSOD or restart, just the program itself stops! Not sure why, and am beginning to wonder if system is fully stable.

I would love it if anyone had any input, as getting a new system is simply not an option now. I'm happy it still serves me well, and would be more happy if I could get more out of it. Could it be the psu? After 4 years I know they can degrade in the amount of power they can supply. Saying that, I've only recently gotten the 560ti (before was a 260 core 216) and have reduced overall power requirements by 40 watts +(560ti max draw 170w versus 200w + for the gtx260). So wasn't expecting a potential issue with the psu!

Well, thank you for reading/listening. Hope someone may actually see this post, as the last one here was quite some time before this.

Have a nice day.

K


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## Christiaan

Hi, and welcome!

You're pretty much at the max this board can handle. Many others have posted in here and mostly the board peaks @ 3GHz. It's not very quad OC friendly at all. It's a beast with dual cores though!

My own rig cannot OC at all and I get stability issues even at 2.5GHz... tried all the "golden BIOS", pencil mod etc. Just cannot get it 100% stable over stock... currently I just run it with everything on auto. It's not the fastest, but I haven't had any hiccups running stock and that keeps me happy.









Good work getting it to 3GHz though. It's a feat on this board.

Most of the guys have moved on to other boards or even new rigs. If any of them stop by, I'm sure they'll tell you the same.

Hope you stick around, OCN is full of knowledge.


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## keih12

Hi Christiaan,

Firstly thank you for your response. Wasn't sure if anyone would want to help given the age of my system, and the date of the last post.

Yes, I had a good read of many, many, many posts







last night. Very informative.

Seems like this board does max out with quads at 3ghz. Indeed, I'm quite pleased to have achieved that, and will have to remain happy until I can afford a new rig!! haha

The 0608 bios has definitely been a help, and was easy enough to get the 3 ghz with. I suppose given the age of my system, it is to be expected to degrade over time, so perhaps it really is time to save up those pennies and try get a new i5 system (even that's kinda dated now!







).

That's a pity though about your own system, and lack of OC for you. But as we've both pointed out our p5ne's are serving us well, and we are happy!

Thanks again for you input.

Hope you have a good day.


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## gayka

Hi, what is your problem with ssd? I`ve bought Sata-III PCI-e x1 controller, and my ssd works fine! But every time i start my computer, i should press F8 and select it from other devices, changing boot priorities in BIOS does not help.


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## gayka

Does anybody OC`ed Intel Pentium E5300 at this mobo? What results can I reach with it`s 800 MHz system bus? I am currently @3.4 Ghz, no voltage modifications.


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## Christiaan

I can't comment on the E5300, but I originally had a E2140 (1.6GHz) which also had a 800 bus I believe. Got that one up to 1460 bus (2.92GHz) From what I've read, 2000 FSB is possible with dual cores on this board. Depends on your chip. I ran around 1.3v and the NB was on the 1.5xxxv setting.


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## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gayka*
> 
> Does anybody OC`ed Intel Pentium E5300 at this mobo? What results can I reach with it`s 800 MHz system bus? I am currently @3.4 Ghz, no voltage modifications.


Ive run an E5300 on one such board and the processors will typically make it to about 350mhz bclock before it wont go further. If you have a good chip, 4ghz is easily reachable with an E5300 on this board.

If you have a great chip you can push higher. Before i degraded my second E5300 via extreme intel burn test session, it could do 4ghz on 1.39v, which is impressive considering its a low end part. If i hadn't messed it up im pretty sure i could have clocked it up to 4.2-4.3 1.45v

Your results will vary, but good luck and have fun with the overclock


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## tuxen

Hi! new to this page, p5n-e sli is a great motherboard. but I need the drivercd for the motherboard. tried to push my e6600 up to 4ghz (it was stable at [email protected]) 4ghz and it was mad at me, bluescreen and now corrupt BIOS.

Best regards
Viktor


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## Christiaan

You should be able to grab all the tools that's on the CD from the Asus website.

All downloads for mobo


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## tuxen

I FIXED IT! I´m in love with floppys! the hardest part was to know how to make the disk working.. but with drdflash.exe to make the floppy bootable, and awdflash + bios it worked.. maybe it works to put that on a cd also.


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## GingertronMk1

Sorry if someone's asked this, but will an NH-D14 fit on one with standard cooling?

EDIT: Apparently so.
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=34&lng=en#LGA775_Asus


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## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Sorry if someone's asked this, but will an NH-D14 fit on one with standard cooling?
> 
> EDIT: Apparently so.
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=compatibility_gen&products_id=34&lng=en#LGA775_Asus


It should. Whether you have the clearance above the edge of the board is another question entirely because the socket is really close to the upper edge, and if the top of the case is right there then its not gonna work.


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## GingertronMk1

What's the distance from the CPU socket to the top edge of the board? Would I be able to get an NH-U12 in?


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## ocentity

Hello guys! one small but important query!

after a long time with a laptop only system i just rebuild the old configuration i had and planning to put some small upgrades in it,

system has P5N E sli mobo with a E5400 cpu, 4 gb of some 667 ddr2 ram and a 80%+ 40A 520w PSU.

The question are:

[1] what is the best graphic card i would be able to install in p5ne sli mobo, i dont want to go for new mobo+cpu, thinking of latest gtx 760 but could settle for 660 as well.
will not sli them though.

[2] what is the scenario with amd cards like 7870 and all.

i know there might be some bandwidth loss for the card coz of PCIEx 1.1/3.0 but again its about saving some money for complete future upgrade.
thanks!


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## GingertronMk1

You should be able to put any PCI-E based graphics card in there.


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## ocentity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> You should be able to put any PCI-E based graphics card in there.


i am more worried about the power that pciEx generations provide from slot itself, would that cause any issue , 75w of older or 150w as per newer pciex slots ..


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## Uberdude

Hello, I'm new to the site and glad I found it. I've had my P5N-E SLI for over 6 years now and it's still going strong. I'm about to upgrade my E6600 to an E8600 in a week or so and look forward to overclocking that.

Specs are:

Windows 7 64 bit
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 @ 3.2Ghz Multiplier @ x8 (Stock air cooler)
FSB @ 400Mhz
8 gig Corsair XMS2 @ 800Mhz (stock timings)
EVGA GTX 550ti (Stock EVGA OC)
1 TB Seagate Barracuda HD (7200RPM)
750 watt OCZ fatality champion series PSU

I'm continuing to play with different overclocks on my E6600 for grins and giggles. I look forward to Overclocking the E8600 when i get it and will seek advice/tips/tricks from here.


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## dpawl31

I had a friend talking about a recent overclock of his, and it reminded me of my days here at OCN. Wish I had the time to to this stuff still!
Can't believe a thread I started Jan of 2007 blossomed into 961 pages, nearly 10k posts! CRAZY!
Glad to see some folks still active with this board, I loved it and it was a hard worker and probably the biggest bang for the buck of it's time!

I know I surprised the hell out of people with it's performance for the price!


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## Christiaan

Hey dpawl31.

I'm still surprised to see posts in here. I'm still rocking this board. But running stock due to stability issues with quads.

I remember I ran a E2140 from 1.6GHz to 2.92GHz. Good times!


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## dpawl31

Whazzup Christian!


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## Asce

Brings back old memories.


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## Praeses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christiaan*
> 
> Hey dpawl31.
> 
> I'm still surprised to see posts in here. I'm still rocking this board. But running stock due to stability issues with quads.
> 
> I remember I ran a E2140 from 1.6GHz to 2.92GHz. Good times!


I remember you in this thread...the only other South African around!









Still running this old board? Sold mine to my dad ages ago







Really enjoying the 2500K-life...such a joy to OC!


----------



## Praeses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asce*
> 
> Brings back old memories.


I see your sig still has the pencil mod in it...worked like a bomb!


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## Asce

Never know, some one might want it again at some point.


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## dpawl31

Might be old, but I wish I still had this board! I am getting a dirt cheap E2160 on Saturday as part of a group buy (E2160, 8800GT, 2x1GB DDR2 Super Talent, $30)
And I'd love to drop the D820 back in that board, get her screaming to 4.2Ghz again and use it for a server at home or standalone DVR.


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## Asce

I gave mine to a mate. Dont know if it still works.


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## Ragsters

Sorry to bring back this old thread but does anyone have this motherboard working with a hd 6000 series card? I have the no display on cold boot issue when running a 6870.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Sorry to bring back this old thread but does anyone have this motherboard working with a hd 6000 series card? I have the no display on cold boot issue when running a 6870.


Bump


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## ltrevo

I think because the MBO is Nvidia chipset whichcant support HD6000 series and newer. I did the same thing also end up need to upgrade to a new board.. Its sad to do so as this is a really nice MBO


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