# [Complete] 2' x 3' Custom CNC Router from 80/20 Aluminum Extrusion



## jpz

Then slip it over the carriage bolts and install the remaining two locknuts(again, only hand tight):









If you were to flip it over the tighten the legs, it would look like this. But don't do that yet!

















Take your two 44" long rails and 22 3/4" long carriage bolts:









Slip the carriage bolts into the side beams:









It's rather difficult to get the rail to slip over the carriage bolts, so you want the bolts lined up as close as possible with the holes in the rail.









It's a lot easier to do this if you slide the feet towards the middle temporarily so you can place the rail closer to the carriage bolts when positioning them:









With a little coaxing, the rail should fall in place like so:









Notice the tight tolerances here! 5/16" bolts in 5/16" holes means very little room for error. I strongly recommend buying the precision machined rails from FLA instead of drilling your own.









Grab 22 locknuts and secure the rails:









Now you can flip the frame over and tighten the screws holding the legs in place:









For the next step you will need two extended rail carriages and accompanying bearings, bolts, and washers:









Place the bearings over the bolts first, then the washers:









Grab a wrench and fire up Bioshock tighten the bolts:









Slide one carriage onto each rail:









Next you will need four 2.5" carriage bolts, two 5/16" 18 x 2.5" SHCS, and two corner brackets, four T-nuts, and two 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS:









Grab the 30" piece of 8020 and slip two T-nuts into one of the channels:









Slide two carriage bolts into each end of the 30" 8020 beam:









Pass the 30" beam under the frame, and lift one end so the carriage bolts pass through the carriage. Secure it with two lock nuts:









Once you've done one side, secure the other end of the 30" cross beam.









Take the BHCS and two remaining T-nuts and arrange them like so:









They slide in place like so:









Pass a 5/16"-18 x 2.5" SHCS through the corner bracket and carriage and secure it with a nut on top:









When you are done it should look like this. Grab two 5/16" 18 BHCS to secure the anti-backlash nut on the Acme rod to the 30" cross beam. Now would probably be a good time to do some alignment, but that can wait until later.









Take two 12" pieces of 1545 8020 and screw two 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS into each end of each piece (8 BHCS in total):









Slip them onto the gantry and tighten with a hex key from below:









Next slide the 36" 3030 8020 on top to complete the gantry frame:









Now you need four more corner brackets, eight 5/16"-18 BHCS, and four T-nuts:









Install the corner brackets on the ends of the 1545 8020 pieces to add support to the gantry:









Next you will need 16 3/4" carriage bolts and the 29" x 6" rail:









Install it just like the previous two rails:









Next I did some alignment. Make sure the gantry is square and that all the bearings are making contact with the rails. Don't forget to adjust the set screws in the carriage blocks. Clamps are useful here:









Once the gantry is properly aligned, turn the acme screw by hand(or couple it to an electric drill) and move the gantry all the way forward and all the way backward on the rails. Once the gantry is all the way forward, tighten the bearing block coupler assembly underneath with a wrench. Move the gantry to the far end and tighten the nuts holding the bearing block in place at the far end too.

Make another coupler-bearing block assembly (same as the previous one) and get two 2" carriage bolts and two nuts:









Install the bearing block on the gantry. Do not tighten yet.









Grab another bearing block and cover, secure the cover with two 1/4"-20 SHCS, find two 2" carriage bolts, and two nuts:









Install the bearing block on the other side of the gantry(again, do not tighten yet):









Locate the 15" 8020 beam for the z-axis, and secure the 10" x 4" rail with six 3/4" carriage bolts and nuts. The extra holes there are from my failed first attempt at drilling the mount holes.









Find two more 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS, two T-nuts, and another anti-backlash nut:









* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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## jpz

Slide the T-nuts into one end of the z-axis 8020 beam:









Bolt down the anti-backlash nut and thread the 31" Acme rod through the nut:









First pass the threaded rod through the bearing block:









Then slide the rod into the shaft couple on the other side:









You will need this x2. Assemble two carriages the same way you did the extended rail carriages, and get four 2.5" carriage bolts and four nuts.









First install the top carriage to the back of the Z-axis beam. Only make the nuts hand tight:









Next install the bottom carriage and align everything. Make sure the Z axis beam is perpendicular to the table, and that all bearings contact the rail.









Now you can tighten the nuts securing the bearing blocks. Move the z-axis 8020 beam side to side the same way you moved the gantry when securing those bearing blocks.

Once everything is secured and aligned, make a third shaft coupler / bearing block assembly and insert the 11.5" Acme rod. You will need two 2" carriage bolts and nuts.









Install the bearing block assembly for the z-axis on the top of the z-axis beam. Only hand tight, as usual. The shaft bottom shaft coupler will rest on the 10" x 4" rail:









Assemble the final two carriages, and bolt them to the Z-axis plate using two 3/8 x 2.5" SHCS for each carriage. Bolt the third anti-backlash nut to the Z-axis plate with two 5/16"-18 x 0.625" BHCS and install your router mount to the other side of the plate:


















Roll the Z-axis assembly onto the Z-axis rail from below and thread the Acme rod through the nut in the back of the Z-axis plate:









Again, everything is being supported by the shaft coupler resting on the rail plate for the time being:









Find two 1.25" carriage bolts, two nuts, and the low profile bushing block:









Install it ( hand tight) to the base of the Z-axis:









Now you can turn the Z-axis shaft until the router mount is raised up all the way, lift the top bearing block so it no longer rests on the rail, and secure it with a wrench.









Then lower the router mount as until it reaches the bottom:









Tighten the nuts on the low profile bushing block. You should be able to reach them with a wrench.









That's about it for now... next up are the stepper motors:


















* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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## nafljhy

that is ridiculously awesome and i have no idea why no one has commented!

i wants moar!!!!!


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## j0n3z3y

Only because I had'nt seen the post







Very nice,wish I had one of those


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## shinji2k

If I had a few grand to spare I am certain this is what I would spend it on.


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## jpz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
that is ridiculously awesome and i have no idea why no one has commented!

i wants moar!!!!!
















Thanks Nafljhy! I suppose the avalanche of pictures might be rather intimidating to anyone who does not have a fiber connection.









There will be more, don't worry. It might not be for a few days though, as there are some things that need to be taken care of first.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *j0n3z3y* 
Only because I had'nt seen the post







Very nice,wish I had one of those









Well, now you've seen it! This is something I've been wanting to do for a few years. I'll be putting the machine right to use as soon as it is operational.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *shinji2k* 
If I had a few grand to spare I am certain this is what I would spend it on.

So you want a CNC router too? Perhaps with a little time and some careful saving you can build your own in the not-too-distant future. Believe me, it's worth the wait.


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## CattleRustler

wow.
just wow.










glad youre liking the app - I have a new version to release soon


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## jpz

I must say it was pretty awesome adding 100 pictures in three fell swoops using drag and drop! That, and being able to see actual pictures as I write the log instead of urls makes everything some much faster and easier.

Might I ask what changes you are thinking of making for the next version of your app?


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## CattleRustler

thanks mate
I have been using it for a few months (1018) it removes the batch launcher and some other various stuff in that menu and adds that previous functionality as part of the app code itself. Mostly things that I had in batch files to create worklog main folders, and internal worklog "days" folders and image management from a staging folder (from camera to staging) to the day folder. Probably not useful to most people unless they arrange their files and folders as I do









I did add a image deletion window where you can load your intended raw images from a dir, then go thru them, selecting the ones for deletion (for the final log, but not touching the raw backups - the system works if you snap multiple pics of the same intended image in case of blurs etc, which I do). I used to do that step separately, writing down the file names to delete, now its insanely quicker since its part of the UI and automated


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## jpz

A quick update-

I haven't had much time to work on this project because I've been planning my entry for the 2010 case mod competition. I've got the plans finalized and almost all the materials, but I still haven't actually started the project!









Tonight I installed the stepper motors and wired up the power supply and controller. I also opened up the router and mounted it.

I've also got EMC2 running on my laptop temporarily using a live cd. I'll do a proper Gentoo installation on my parents' old desktop when I have time, but for now I'll be using the laptop.

Everything is running great so far. I had the machine doing 600 ipm rapids without a sweat.







In the morning I'll fire up the router and do a few test runs. After that I'll throw some acrylic sheets on the table and get started with my entry for the case competition.



































These are the 12' DB-9 extension cables from FLA that can handle the large currents required by the stepper motors.








Here are my 48V power supply and the Gecko G540 stepper controller.


















Tomorrow is going to be a long day... wish me luck!









* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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## shinji2k

I'm very jealous. And you haven't started your entry yet?!


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## jpz

Well... six months of planning must count for something, no?









I've tested most of the electronic hardware for the project but I still haven't started making the scratch case.


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## merple

That looks amazing, I want one!


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## shinji2k

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpz* 
Well... six months of planning must count for something, no?









I've tested most of the electronic hardware for the project but I still haven't started making the scratch case.

There's no way I could pull off my entry in like a day and a half, mostly because it seems like nothing I do turns out right the first time







. Still, I think I spent at least 20 hours on just my cabling (making all new PSU connectors and sleeving). I can't wait to see what you have planned!


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## jpz

Apparently there's no way I could either.









New thread started here: Project Ruby Horizon


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## Photograph

I am going to go out on a limb here and assume you are an engineer, that's a very impressive little project you have there. I await some shots of it in action


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## oliverw92

Howwww did i miss this! I am incredibly jealous! How much do you think this will have costed you to make by the end?


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## jpz

Last I checked, I spent about $1850 USD on parts. That includes the electronics and router.

Today I ordered some used igus cable carrier on ebay for $40, and I still need to purchase CAM software. I've been demoing a lot of CAM software trials and I'm pretty much sold on Vectric Cut2D. That'll be another $150. The only other thing left to buy is a table/large board to put on the frame.


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## oliverw92

I would recommend HDF (high density fibreboard) if you can get it, or MDF if not, at least at first. Metal bases are nice, but when you are learning to use your machine/setting it up, a metal table is very expensive to replace if you make a large gouge in it! HDF over MDF simply because it weighs more.


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## jpz

It already weighs about 150lbs / 65Kg. It's not going anywhere on its own, if that's what you were thinking.









I'm definitely going to be using something cheap for a table. At this point I'll take just about whatever I can find that is the right size and doesn't cost an arm and a leg- mdf, hdf, even a good sheet of plywood.


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## Djayness

If you need precision with the wasteboard then get MDF and a liquid melomime resin. Over time, MDF will expand and warp and if you coat the entire board with the resin, it will stop the MDF from expanding.

*Hold downs:*








Double sided tape, .9mm thick foam, 2mm wide.

Double sided tape is what I use as a hold down as well because clamps reduce working area and there is a real possibility the machines rails will run into them. Tape also has a thickness which allows you to drill through the material without hitting the table.

*Software:*








With a machine like this, you need good software. Vectrics is easy to use and quite powerful at developing Gcode. Pretty cheap too







Just design the parts like normal in Autocad, send the DXF file to Vectrics and then do the toolpathing in there. Gcode goes on the usb and into the machine.

*Tooling:*








Steel HSS is rubbish, carbide is much better









Tooling can cost you a bomb, I use to buy from multicam and they cost 60 USD each tool for the carbide bits. I recently switched to bits from china sent by virtual village, they cost around 20 dollars for a pack of 5 carbide endmills, none of these have broken on me and they are an absolute bargain.

It's also handy to get a resurfacing tool, these are typically 25 - 30mm in diameter and are used to resurface your MDF to make sure it stays absolutely flat.

*Cutting Fluid*








You dont really need something expensive, anything that acts as a lubricant will do. I use kerosene for cutting metals.


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## jpz

Thanks for the tips Djayness!

Here's a quick update for all of you-

I powered up the new Hitachi router for the first time today!







I ran a few quick tests cutting some wood and acrylic scraps and think I've got a pretty good idea idea of what spindle rpm and feedrate combinations give a good finish with the solid carbide router bit I bought for plastics last summer but never used. Oh, I also tuned the Gecko G540 controller to my individual motors to get smooth microstepping at low feeds.

All in all I am very happy with the machine, but it still needs a fair bit of work. I still need to make mounts for limit switches and the cable carriers as well as wire up the limit switches. The cable carriers I ordered should come early next week. I also ordered some leveling casters so I will need to make mounting plates for those. I am also going to have to remove the legs from the base to tap the ends so I can mount the casters. On top of all that I would like to make a box for the electronics, and I still need to buy mdf for the table.

I should have a proper update ready in the next day or two.


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## Jolly-Swagman

looking awesome jpz, look forward to seeing the finished outcome!


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## jpz

Progress the past week has been terribly slow, but things should be speeding up now. The cable carriers and leveling casters arrived Monday, and I bought Vectric Cut2D last night.

Today I went to Home Depot and bought carriage bolts, washers, nuts, and a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" tick MDF. I cut a 29 1/2" x 48" section for the table:










For now the table is mounted using two clamps at each end. In the future I will drill holes in the MDF and secure the table to the alu frame using carriage bolts.










This is the scrape of acrylic I used for testing the other night. I will be cutting a piece from it.










I used a little 3M double stick tape to secure the acrylic:










CNC, Go!



























Hmm...I think I used a little too much tape.







I popped the acrylic loose with a screw driver, but when I tried to pull away the acrylic scrap it separated from the paper backing.

Apparently the router cut clean through the acrylic but it left the paper on the backside complete intact!







It didn't even a mark on the paper!










Here's the piece after a quick wipe down with a microfiber cloth:



















Tomorrow I will be making this from scrap acrylic leftover from BlackBox. I designed it yesterday in Sketchup. All that's left to be done is setting up the toolpaths. I'll also be making mounts for the limit switches and cable carriers, as well as some cable management pieces.










* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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## Driftingnfsc3

man, thats pretty epic...how accurate is it btw =P

i wish i had the money to make one ): those aluminum extrusions you used, i've been working with them for 3 years for robotics...never thought of using them as a frame for a CNC machine XD man, if i had one of those machines, i would soo make myself some water blocks =P aswell as case mods...but custom waterblocks would be nice too


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## jpz

The acme screws are 2 turn per inch, and the stepper motors turn 1.8 degrees per step. That means 0.0025 inches per step, but my Gecko G540 does microstepping. This breaks each step into 10 microsteps, which brings the theoretical accuracy to 0.00025 inches. However, that does not take account for things like backlash or runout.

I have definitely thought about making waterblocks. Perhaps some blocks for a chiller in the future. This thing can also make custom mounting plates, reservoirs, pump tops, you name it. Oh, it can also make just about any size circuit board you could ever possibly need. And of course you can use it to make things out of wood... everything from ornamental to instrumental. Maybe one day I'll have enough time to make a guitar and/or bass. This is all with the right bits of course- I only have a couple plastic cutting bits at the moment.


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## jpz

I took a bunch of pictures and videos while I was cutting last week, but unfortunately my sd card failed. When I went to look at the pictures on my laptop, most of the new shots were gone. I put the card in my EEE to look and see what linux had to say about it. Apparently a large portion of the card is no longer readable. I managed to recover a few pictures and a short segment of one of the videos, but everything else left from two days of cutting was lost.

This is a 12" x 12" black acrylic tile. I used eight 1" x 1" tape squares to hold it in place. It was still very difficult to remove after cutting.










Next I cut a 12" x 12" gray acrylic tile which was held in place with double stick tape I bought from McMaster-Carr for Ruby. It was impossible to separate the acrylic from the mdf table. The only way I could get the acrylic off was by leaving the paper backing behind. I must have spent an hour scraping the tape off my table after tearing the paper. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of any of this.

Next I tried cutting a ~7.5" x 24" black acrylic scrap using tiny pieces of 3m double sided tape in each corner of every piece I cut out. In order to know where to put the tape, I came up with this idea:










CNC Sharpie!!







I reversed the x-axis in EMC2 so that the cnc router would draw a mirror image of the profile cuts on the back of the sheet. That way when I flip over the sheet all t he tape would be in the right place.










Router + Acrylic = Mess
CNC Router + Acrylic = Mess^2










Next I will be welding some of the acrylic pieces I cut:



















100% repeatable perfect corner joints!




































More welding...



















This needs to be welded too










A little blue tape to hold things in place while I work.










Tada!










These are all the pieces I cut on the router










These are mounts for my limit switches and cable carriers. There are also a few cable clamps too.










My pretty little box



















Here's the Gecko G540 stepper controller










The controller presses in place for a snug friction fit.



















My electronics box will be suspended under the table.










The top gray piece of acrylic has a lip on three sides so it slides right into the 80/20 channels.










Here is a close up to show you how it is suspended:










The box slides to the front of the table and locks in place:




























These brackets are for mounting the 48V power supply that drives the Gecko G540 and steppers:









The brakets bolt to the power supply...










which is then brought under the table, raised and bolted into position from below.


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## jpz

Next I installed the other acrylic bits I made, as well as the cable carriers and limit switches. All the cables have been organized too:










A shot of the gantry from behind:










The extension cable for the Z-axis stepper is held in place with adhesive-backed velcro(which I bought from McMaster-Carr for Ruby Horizon).




























The limit switches are held to my acrylic mounts with double sided tape:










This is the Z-axis limit switch:










The X-axis switch:




























This is how the cables wrap around and below the gantry:










Something I didn't consider when making these acrylic mounts was that I would have to completely disasemble the gantry to install the cable carrier mount that attaches to the gantry below the table. Since I really didn't feel like taking half the machine apart, I used double sided tape instead:










Here it is, stuck in place:










This is the stationary cable carrier mount below the table:










Here is the Y-axis limit switch and extra cable lengths.










Motors plugged in to the Gecko controller:



















This should give you an idea of what it will look like with the table mounted in place. For now the mdf sheet is just sitting on top of the frame with nothing to secure it.




























* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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## jpz

This is the video I was able to recover:


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## oliverw92

This is so cool jpz


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## jpz

Thanks Oli! Update incoming...


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## jpz

This log is finally coming to a close. What follows is the work I accomplished over the past few days.

Originally I intended to machine some aluminum mountin plates the leveling casters I ordered, but since I had so much mdf lying around I decided it would be quicker, easier, and more functional to use a sheet of mdf instead.

These are the 2" leveling casters I got from Access Casters for about $18 each:










The two holes below and to the right of the caster will be used to bolt the aluminum machine frame and secure it to the mdf.

I propped up the CNC router using wood scraps(think 2" x 4") and removed the 80/20 legs. This was necessary so I could tap the holes in the 80/20 legs and thus bolt the machine to the base board.

After that I mounted all four casters to the new base board:










Next I flipped over the board and had a friend help me lift the router and set it in place. Later I secured the machine with some 5/16" hex bolts.

This is a 48 volt 120mm Delta fan I picked up from Newegg to cool the CNC electronics. Delta makes some nice quality fans- notice the threaded inserts.










I was going to use these 6-32 screws to secure the fan to my fan plate, but I ended up using some 3/8" 6-32 SHCS instead because the fan blows air in the opposite direction of most fans.










Sorry for the blurry pictures, but there isn't much light in my garage and I wasn't going to bring out a tripod for this. The fan is now wired up and ready to seal up the box.










I have the fan installed such that it pulls in air from outside the box and blows directly on the Gecko G540. This is the finished product:










Next I had to finish up the work table. I drilled 3/8" holes spaced 4" apart along both sides of the mdf sheet I had been using as a makeshift table. I also cut an mdf spoilboard which I also drilled following the same convention, except I used a 7/8" spade bit on the spoil board to recess the bolts and nuts. This way, there is no chance of accidentally hitting the table mounting hardware while cutting.










The table is now secure.










I had some extra 1/4" aluminum plate left over from when I made the rails. It has now been turned into a touch plate. I also managed to scrounge up an alligator clip that can attach to a 1/4" shank. The plate and alligator clip are wired to the Gecko G540 controller which allows my computer to detect when the tool in my router makes contact with the aluminum plate. This makes homing the Z-axis a breeze!










One of the last things I had left to do was find a way to keep the Y-axis rails clear. Even the slightest amount of acrylic chips will cause the gantry to vibrate which has a negative impact on cut finish quality.

If the rails are completely clear, then the finish on acrylic edges is so nice that I can start with 320 grit for sanding. The edges only require a quick scuff with 320 paper, and then a normal 600 grit regimen before buffing. The end result is that I spend less than half the normal amount of time sanding and polishing acrylic edges. I'm sure there are at least a few of you who can appreciate this.

Anyway, I cut up some cereal boxes and made these cardboard side curtains. They slide between a small gap between the 80/20 gantry frame and the steel bearing blocks that ride along the Y-axis rails concealed behind the new curtains.



















I just have a few last finishing touches before I call it finished. I am very happy with the casters. The machine rolls very easily but is rock solid once raised on to the leveling feet. If all goes well then work shall commence on Ruby Horizon in a few days.

* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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## shinji2k

Did I mention I was jealous?


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## oliverw92

Yeaahhh, that looks sick! I love it!


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## nafljhy

sooo ridiculously awesome!!!


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## CattleRustler

:
make me one!


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## jpz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shinji2k* 
Did I mention I was jealous?

Haha, I think you did.







Did I mention my savings have mysteriously vanished?









Congrats on Whiteout and your well-deserved winnings in the 2010 case mod competition!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *oliverw92* 
Yeaahhh, that looks sick! I love it!

Not as sick as the things it will make!

What's not to love about my little worker? It's probably the closest thing I'll ever have to a flying monkey-butler.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
sooo ridiculously awesome!!!









CNC makes everything ridiculously awesome!!!









Thanks for watching, naf!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CattleRustler* 







:
make me one!

Ah, love at first sight! Thanks for the seal of approval, CR!


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## exnihilo

This is awesome! Great log bro, I really understood what you were doing and where you were going. Enjoy your new tool!!

cg


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## loop0001

holy freakin sh**!!!

at a loss for words...


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## oliverw92

Flying monkey butlers


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## xxbassplayerxx

...


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## jpz

Thanks for the comments guys!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *exnihilo* 
This is awesome! Great log bro, I really understood what you were doing and where you were going. Enjoy your new tool!!

cg

Your kind words are much appreciated! I try to make my logs as clear and, when possible, concise as I can. It makes me feel good to know that my efforts have paid off.


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## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpz* 
Thanks for the comments guys!

Your kind words are much appreciated! I try to make my logs as clear and, when possible, concise as I can. It makes me feel good to know that my efforts have paid off.

Did you engineer this thing yourself or did you follow some sort of guide? It seems we just got the assembly and none of the planning angle, which is sweet-- don't get me wrong, but it would be cool to see some of the engineering behind it!

I work around this type of thing all day (I work as an engineering intern and I like to mess around in the machine shops) and your work is purely amazing!


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## shinji2k

There are plans available at the one site he linked to that sells kits, but they aren't the most detailed. Most people take those and personalize them or look at the setups others have built using the same plans/kits.


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## jpz

What Shinji said. I just designed the little acrylic add-ons and such.


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## Redwoodz

That is a job extremely well done.


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## IEATFISH

Wow, I hadn't seen this. So amazing. I want two.


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## The_Monk

Having looked at the plans previously, how did you know where to drill the holes and at what measurements the legs were apart etc... The plans show the sizes etc... but dont tell you how each bit fits. Did you just make up your own?

I tip my hat to you, that is a fantastic build!


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## jpz

Thanks guys!

In the most recent version of the plans there is a set of pdfs with all the dimensions needed for processing your own 80/20. These will show you exactly where to drill the holes. As for the rails, I believe I used the measurement tool in the E-drawings viewer to determine the hole spacing. The hole spacing along the axis of travel does not matter too much as long as the holes are perfectly co-linear and parallel with the rail edges. That said, I highly recommend purchasing pre-drilled rails from Nate at FLA. They will save you a LOT of time and frustration.


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## The_Monk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpz* 
Thanks guys!

In the most recent version of the plans there is a set of pdfs with all the dimensions needed for processing your own 80/20. These will show you exactly where to drill the holes. As for the rails, I believe I used the measurement tool in the E-drawings viewer to determine the hole spacing. The hole spacing along the axis of travel does not matter too much as long as the holes are perfectly co-linear and parallel with the rail edges. That said, I highly recommend purchasing pre-drilled rails from Nate at FLA. They will save you a LOT of time and frustration.

Cheers chief! I have downloaded the latest revisions!


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## jpz

This will be the last update I will be posting in this thread. I am ready to call this project complete. If you want to see my machine in action then please visit the Ruby Horizon thread. I will be posting pictures and videos there shortly.

The only thing I had left to do was to add a few finishing touches to the mounting system. I used the router to bore into my spoilboard along the x and y axes:










The holes have been bored in such a way that they are tangent to the lines y=0 and x=0.










Next I cut some wooden dowels.










These dowels are a quick, easy, and reliable way to mount raw material sheets to the table. I first insert the pegs, then slide my work piece into place. Once I have secured the work piece, I can remove the dowels so the machine does not hit them while cutting. With this system my material will be square with the machine axes and bottom left corner of the sheet will always be at the machine origin. All I have to do is home the router using my limit/home switches and the touch plate, and the machine knows exactly where to find the raw material.










That's all, folks!










* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


----------



## Rixon

Oh man, just like robotics, Extruded aluminum everywhere, bolts and nuts filling all the shops cabinets, 25 desktops all working for rendering, prototyping. Man, I cannot wait to start building robots again.


----------



## oliverw92

Pictures aren't working for me


----------



## jpz

Hmm... that's odd.









Which pictures aren't working? All the pictures in the thread? Is anyone else having trouble?

Thanks for the heads up Oli!


----------



## shinji2k

They show up fine for me.


----------



## oliverw92

Ok I just debugged it using some dev tools and it is Safari not trusting the certificate of your comcast hosting.


----------



## PropNut

Oh man do I feel stupid. While building my CNC table I put the electronics in a crudely built wooden box until such time as I can build a aluminum or steel enclosure...I never thought of using plexi!!! Excellent build, you should post this thread on CNCzone.com also. Any chance that you would share your Vcarve save file? (I use Vcarve Pro)

Where do you source your plexi from?

Thanks for posting your build, it was excellent reading...ok..well...it was excellent skimming









David


----------



## jpz

And here I was thinking I was being silly making an electronics box out of acrylic...

I buy my acrylic from McMaster-Carr. They have a warehouse very close to where I live.

I would be happy to share my Vcarve file(s), but I can't at the moment. I am currently traveling Europe and won't be back in the US for another week. I will send what I have when I get home, but I am not sure if I saved the Vcarve files. I may have only saved the G-code. Also, if I do have the V-carve files they will also have the other parts I was cutting for the cnc router- the cable carrier and switch mounts, etc. If you like, I should have my Google Sketchup model and I can send you that or export it to *.dxf.


----------



## PropNut

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpz* 
I am currently traveling Europe and won't be back in the US for another week.

Enjoy yourself, I spent three months in 2008 traveling on a EuroRail Pass. It was one of the great times in my life.

I will send what I have when I get home, but I am not sure if I saved the Vcarve files. I may have only saved the G-code. Also, if I do have the V-carve files they will also have the other parts I was cutting for the cnc router- the cable carrier and switch mounts, etc. If you like, I should have my Google Sketchup model and I can send you that or export it to *.dxf.


Enjoy yourself, I spent three months in 2008 traveling on a EuroRail Pass. It was one of the great times in my life.

DXF files would be excellent if you do not have the Vcarve files, thanks!


----------



## jpz

Thanks PropNut. I had a great time in Europe! Most of the week was spent hopping back and forth between Germany and Austria, but I also spent an afternoon in Lichtenstein and Switzerland. I'd love to spend a month or three over there, but I'd rather not think about how much that would cost!

I managed to find the Vcarve files. Let me know if you have any trouble with them. Since this was my first project using Cut2D and the new CNC router, I was still in the early stages of learning how to use Sketchup in conjunctive with Cut2D as well as how to setup toolpaths.

You may have trouble selecting the vector groups associated with certain parts- this is because I improperly exported 3d sketchup objects to 3d .dxf files which caused Cut2D to create numerous duplicate vectors. If you click on a part and it only selects one edge, you can either delete that edge or try selecting the part via a different edge or in the case of overlapping vector groups a different section of that edge.

You may want to change the separation between parts depending on the diameter of your cutter. You will be able to make these parts using a 1/4" or smaller diameter cutter. Larger cutters will not be able to make the 1/4" wide pockets. If you use a 1/4" cutter like I did, you should probably increase the separation between parts. Initially I laid out my parts using 1/4" spacing, whereas now I lay my parts using 3/8" spacing. This gives better edge quality and makes toolpathing easier since Cut2D gets very confused if you try to include adjacent parts in the same profile toolpath and the distance between them is the same as the cutter diameter.

Also, I made this using 6mm acrylic, which is 0.236". If you use 1/4" acrylic, the joints may be too tight and you probably won't be able to get the parts to fit together. I would make the joint pockets at least 0.1" wider than the thickness of your acrylic.

This file has the front and back panels, along with my X and Z limit switch mounts: EBox-FB-Panels.crv

This file has the top part, as well as the support beam and all the little parts for making the PSU mounting brackets and mounting the back panel with the fan: 12-12-gray.crv

Last we have the two side panels with fan grills. These are at the top of the sheet; the rest of the pieces were for my cable carrier mounts, y limit switch mount, and securing cables: 12-24-black.crv


----------



## FineLineAutomation

jpz,

Another customer of mine directed me to your build log. I am glad you are finding the kit useful and thank you for posting the very detailed build log. I must say that is the best electronics case I have seen so far for the machine. Ridiculously good work. Also, I think that the cable carrier solution is the most unique I've seen.

I attached some pictures of some nifty spoilboard, keyboard/mouse and monitior mounts, and cable chain mounts. The spoilboard with the T-Tracks is by far the best solution I have used for holding things down and the swing out monitor mount is a useful space saver.

Would you mind if I put the pictures/wording in a build instructions document on my website?

Regards,

Nate
Fine Line Automation


----------



## shinji2k

I should have never subscribed to this thread







.

There must be someone in central Ohio that has a CNC setup and needs a new best friend







.


----------



## jpz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FineLineAutomation*


jpz,

Another customer of mine directed me to your build log. I am glad you are finding the kit useful and thank you for posting the very detailed build log. I must say that is the best electronics case I have seen so far for the machine. Ridiculously good work. Also, I think that the cable carrier solution is the most unique I've seen.

I attached some pictures of some nifty spoilboard, keyboard/mouse and monitior mounts, and cable chain mounts. The spoilboard with the T-Tracks is by far the best solution I have used for holding things down and the swing out monitor mount is a useful space saver.

Would you mind if I put the pictures/wording in a build instructions document on my website?

Regards,

Nate
Fine Line Automation


Thanks Nate! You can go right ahead and redistribute my instructions on your website. All I ask for in return is credit/acknowledgement for writing the instructions.

I considered using T-slots on the table but that doesn't work for my application. I've been cutting lots of small bits from acrylic sheet- I can't just secure the sheet from the edges because the acrylic will snap and my parts will go flying as they break free. Perhaps if I used tabs... but I tried using tabs for a couple runs and that turned out to be more of a hassle than the tape.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shinji2k*


I should have never subscribed to this thread







.

There must be someone in central Ohio that has a CNC setup and needs a new best friend







.


----------



## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpz* 
Thanks Nate! You can go right ahead and redistribute my instructions on your website. All I ask for in return is credit/acknowledgement for writing the instructions.

I will make sure I mention it and include a link back to the build log.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jpz* 
I considered using T-slots on the table but that doesn't work for my application. I've been cutting lots of small bits from acrylic sheet- I can't just secure the sheet from the edges because the acrylic will snap and my parts will go flying as they break free. Perhaps if I used tabs... but I tried using tabs for a couple runs and that turned out to be more of a hassle than the tape.

Tabs were a lot of hassle for me at first too. It was hard to get them off and it was hard to flush the face smooth afterward. Take the tabs off with a handheld router and a flush trim bit is now an easy process. To cut the tabs I still use a high tooth mini saw originally designed for cutting balsa/basswood/plastic for RC parts. It goes quick with only 2 tabs per part.

I would consider using tape on acrylic, especially with a large number of small parts, but I don't like it's stickiness on wood.

As a third option, you might want to investigate vacuum clamping in the near future. See http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34537

Regards,

Nate
Fine Line Automation


----------



## Eaglezsoar

JPZ: It is important that I contact you about this build log.
Me email is [email protected] Could you please send me
your email address so that I may contact you?


----------



## PropNut

Eaglezsoar, is this about your pendant issue?


----------



## dgates80

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jpz*


Thanks Nate! You can go right ahead and redistribute my instructions on your website. All I ask for in return is credit/acknowledgement for writing the instructions.

I considered using T-slots on the table but that doesn't work for my application. I've been cutting lots of small bits from acrylic sheet- I can't just secure the sheet from the edges because the acrylic will snap and my parts will go flying as they break free. Perhaps if I used tabs... but I tried using tabs for a couple runs and that turned out to be more of a hassle than the tape.











Hiya! Your worklog is proving to be a HUGE help in my FLA-100 build that I am doing right now! THANSKS!


----------



## dgates80

I am looking at using some stuff that my wife uses in her retail store on the walls called "slatwall" -- it's a lot like t-slotted MDF, pretty flat when backed up with something flat, and cheap enough to be sacrificial. Lowes has it, $40 a 4 x 8 sheet.


----------



## FineLineAutomation

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dgates80*


I am looking at using some stuff that my wife uses in her retail store on the walls called "slatwall" -- it's a lot like t-slotted MDF, pretty flat when backed up with something flat, and cheap enough to be sacrificial. Lowes has it, $40 a 4 x 8 sheet.


slatwall is good. You may want to try the carpet tape in addition to the clamps. I use the clamps as the main hold down method and the carpet tape to hold the pieces in place on the cut-through. Works well and it's a whole lot easier than cleaning up tabs.

Regards,

Nate


----------



## jpz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgates80;12065517*
> Hiya! Your worklog is proving to be a HUGE help in my FLA-100 build that I am doing right now! THANSKS!


Thanks for taking the time to register and letting me know know that my work log is helping you with your build! I really appreciate it. Good luck with your new FLA-100!


----------



## FannBlade

Nice job on the router.

Thinking about getting the same 3 motor kit as yous for my lathe do you think they would have enough power hooked up direct? Most retro fit kits use a belt and pulley system and are 3 times the money. The handles turn really easy and I rarely cut over .010 at a time. Hard for me to judged the oz torque on the handles.

Do you think you could stop the motor shaft with you hand?
Know this may not be your area just thought I would start here.


----------



## voigts

I've got to give you credit for tackling this. This has got to be one brutal project to undertake.


----------



## jpz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12998727*
> Nice job on the router.
> 
> Thinking about getting the same 3 motor kit as yous for my lathe do you think they would have enough power hooked up direct? Most retro fit kits use a belt and pulley system and are 3 times the money. The handles turn really easy and I rarely cut over .010 at a time. Hard for me to judged the oz torque on the handles.
> 
> Do you think you could stop the motor shaft with you hand?
> Know this may not be your area just thought I would start here.


I do not feel qualified to give a definitive answer to your question, so my best advice would be to contact Nate and/or ask around cnczone. Nate can be busy at times and may take a while to respond if that is the case, but he is very helpful and should be able to give you a friendly and knowledgeable response.

That said, I'd imagine these motors should work with your machine mounted direct without a pulley. I have no way of measuring the holding torque for the motor to verify the claimed 380 oz-in or generate any sort of torque curve, nor do I dare try to stop the motor from turning with my hand as my fingers would likely get crushed if I tried to grab the leadscrew while the machine was running.

Once you have enough torque to turn the leadscrews and jog the axis, any additional torque will go towards creating your cutting force(it is also important for acceleration). If you don't have enough torque for your desired feed rate, the stepper motor will miss steps which means your cutting will be inaccurate unless you lower the feed rate such that the motors are capable of producing the required cutting force.

In short, I think the motors will work but I have no idea what kind of feed rates you would be able to use for production. Once again my best advice to you is to get a second opinion and either crunch the numbers yourself or find someone you trust to crunch the numbers for you.


----------



## FannBlade

Thank you for the detailed reply. I can adj feed rate accordingly.
I'll send Nate an e-mail and see what he thinks. I too think it will be enough torque, but like you said I'll ask around, You know somebody out there has tried it.
You a nice job on your router, also checked out your build logs...VERY NICE!

Thanks for your help.


----------



## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;12998727*
> Nice job on the router.
> 
> Thinking about getting the same 3 motor kit as yous for my lathe do you think they would have enough power hooked up direct? Most retro fit kits use a belt and pulley system and are 3 times the money. The handles turn really easy and I rarely cut over .010 at a time. Hard for me to judged the oz torque on the handles.
> 
> Do you think you could stop the motor shaft with you hand?
> Know this may not be your area just thought I would start here.


Does you lathe have dovetailed ways? If so, how tightly are they adjusted? I don't think it will be a problem with the dovetailed ways, but I have seen some machine that are adjusted almost too tight in the quest for better accuracy. If you can turn the screws by hand easily, I think you will have no problem with the torque on the motors.

As far as the pulley system is concerned, I would recommend doing it with my motors if you can. The issue is that whenever you turn a screw and drive the nut one direction, a force equal to the amount of force it takes to move the nut is applied in the opposite direction. If the motor is direct connect that force will be transmitted to the shaft and you will wear out your motors faster. My kits solve the problem by putting a dual set of thrust bearings on the shaft so they take all the load instead of the motor. For the lathe, if you don't have a setup like that it might be more beneficial to run a pulley system with my motors. Can you take a couple of pictures of the screws and their mounting bearings and post them here?

As far as turning the motor shafts by hand, when the motors are disconnected from power you can turn them fairly easily. When you apply power to the motors, they will instantly lock up and you won't be able to turn them by hand without using a long lever. Also not that my motors don't have a double shaft on them so it's not possible to mount the hand cranks on the other side.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Regards,

Nate


----------



## FannBlade

Thanks Nate
I have the gibs pretty loose and move easily I only need to maintain +/- .005.
I'm looking into some pulleys and cog belts for the reason you mentioned, so I can still you the lathe manually. Do you think a 2 to 1 ratio would be about right? I do plan on making an idler pulley just encase I need to change the gearing a little.
That's a pretty sweet motor kit you have and plan on building my system around it.
Since I have a lathe mill combo it will give me the best of both worlds. Looks like I will be able to build it for under a $1000 with your software.

Thank you for taking the time to reply....be prepared I will have tons of question!


----------



## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FannBlade;13035866*
> Thanks Nate
> I have the gibs pretty loose and move easily I only need to maintain +/- .005.
> I'm looking into some pulleys and cog belts for the reason you mentioned, so I can still you the lathe manually. Do you think a 2 to 1 ratio would be about right? I do plan on making an idler pulley just encase I need to change the gearing a little.
> That's a pretty sweet motor kit you have and plan on building my system around it.
> Since I have a lathe mill combo it will give me the best of both worlds. Looks like I will be able to build it for under a $1000 with your software.
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to reply....be prepared I will have tons of question!


The pulley ratio depends on how many turns per inch your leadscrews are. My kits have screws that are 2 turns per inch which give a resolution of .00025" per step. If you have a 2+ turns per inch leadscrew, I recommend 1 to 1 or 2 to 1. If you have less than 2 turns per inch, you want to go 2 to 1 to 4 to 1. The idler pulley is a great idea, though the simpler solution may just be to mill the motor mounting holes as slots.

Regards,

Nate


----------



## Woodie49

I'm getting reading to start me build. How did the aluminum bars work out for you instead of the steel rails? Also anything youed change?
Thanks


----------



## jpz

Don't bother with aluminum rails. Either buy yours from Nate or make them from steel. Aluminum is too soft and it will wear down slowly since the steel bearings are much harder. I regret going with aluminum and will be buying steel replacement rails as soon as I can justify spending more money on my router.

If I were to start over I would change the frame design to allow greater travel along the longest axis. Nate's official design can fit a 2' x 3' piece of material on the table, but the travel on the 3' axis is actually about 33-34" so you won't be able to use the entire sheetl. Not the end of the world but it would be nice not to leave a 3 inch wide strip of waste material after every run.

Keep in mind that if you extend the table, you will need a slightly longer leadscrew for that axis. The standard length rails _might_ be long enough but I would check that first. The most important thing is to increase the distance between the legs. On my machine the rails are long enough for more than 36" travel but the gantry will hit the legs under the table long before reaching the end of the rails.

Aside from that, you need to find a way to keep the rails as clean as possible. While I have not done it yet myself, I would highly recommend that you consider getting a dust shoe and vacuum system. The cardboard skirts I made for the longest axis works fairly well, but the other two axes still get pretty dirty after an hour or so of cutting.

Finally, my router is way too low to the ground. Put yours on a table or tweak the frame design so that you can work without having to bend over. Your back will thank you.


----------



## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpz;13767189*
> Don't bother with aluminum rails. Either buy yours from Nate or make them from steel. Aluminum is too soft and it will wear down slowly since the steel bearings are much harder. I regret going with aluminum and will be buying steel replacement rails as soon as I can justify spending more money on my router.
> 
> If I were to start over I would change the frame design to allow greater travel along the longest axis. Nate's official design can fit a 2' x 3' piece of material on the table, but the travel on the 3' axis is actually about 33-34" so you won't be able to use the entire sheetl. Not the end of the world but it would be nice not to leave a 3 inch wide strip of waste material after every run.
> 
> Keep in mind that if you extend the table, you will need a slightly longer leadscrew for that axis. The standard length rails _might_ be long enough but I would check that first. The most important thing is to increase the distance between the legs. On my machine the rails are long enough for more than 36" travel but the gantry will hit the legs under the table long before reaching the end of the rails.
> 
> Aside from that, you need to find a way to keep the rails as clean as possible. While I have not done it yet myself, I would highly recommend that you consider getting a dust shoe and vacuum system. The cardboard skirts I made for the longest axis works fairly well, but the other two axes still get pretty dirty after an hour or so of cutting.
> 
> Finally, my router is way too low to the ground. Put yours on a table or tweak the frame design so that you can work without having to bend over. Your back will thank you.


Agree on all points. Especially the dust shoe and vacuum system. Note, it's expensive, but Kent (http://www.kentcnc.net/nc/category/65-dust-shoes-accessories.aspx) makes a really nice dust shoe...

Regards,

Nate


----------



## 161029

I want to make one really bad. I'm subbing so I can refer to this.


----------



## Woodie49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpz;13767189*
> If I were to start over I would change the frame design to allow greater travel along the longest axis. Nate's official design can fit a 2' x 3' piece of material on the table, but the travel on the 3' axis is actually about 33-34" so you won't be able to use the entire sheetl. Not the end of the world but it would be nice not to leave a 3 inch wide strip of waste material after every run.
> 
> I was thinking 50x 26 Frame size.


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinji2k;10761246*
> i should have never subscribed to this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> There must be someone in central ohio that has a cnc setup and needs a new best friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


+1


----------



## mru

crowat
Drive around your industrial neighborhoods. You'd be amazed on how many machine, tool&die, metal working outfits with CNCs you shall find.
These are often real ol'school shops, who still understand to work for a case of beer! or 20 bucks in the coffee till.


----------



## IEATFISH

At work, I'm currently in charge of getting a 7"x7" Zen Toolworks machine up and running for PCB milling and other small tasks. It is sure a blast and I can only imagine how much fun I would have with this large of a surface and capabilities...


----------



## 161029

Should I make one? I could make whatever I want but it's not as precise as laser (looking at FTW PC) but I can engrave stuff. Hmm...


----------



## Rexel

Forget this post, I accidentally posted in the wrong topic as i have multiple OCN tabs:S
Sorry!

-Rexel


----------



## gta18

@jpz,

how much total did it cost you to build the fla100 excluding the electronics?

Thanks!


----------



## PortlandGTS

JPZ,

I found a link to this thread from CNC Zone. I am building a FLA-300, and found your thread very useful.

I was wondering if I could get a DXF or SKP version of the files you used to make the acrylic case. I don't have VCarve, so can't use those files.

Thanks,
Tom


----------



## Lord Xeb

@[email protected] How are things going with the CNC machine?


----------



## jpz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IEATFISH*


At work, I'm currently in charge of getting a 7"x7" Zen Toolworks machine up and running for PCB milling and other small tasks. It is sure a blast and I can only imagine how much fun I would have with this large of a surface and capabilities...


Hah, I started on a Sherline mini-mill myself.








Things just keep getting better and better as the machines grow. Whenever I use this router I have the widest grin on my face!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *HybridCore*


Should I make one? I could make whatever I want but it's not as precise as laser (looking at FTW PC) but I can engrave stuff. Hmm...


You can do engraving with both a CNC router as well as a laser cutter. If you haven't already made a decision, I would suggest you think carefully about what types of materials you want to work with and what things you want to make. Also, laser cutters are not necessarily more accurate. I have seen some cheap laser cutters that can't even cut a straight line. The nice thing about laser cutters is you can have interior corners with virtually 0 radius. On the downside laser cutters have trouble with materials that are thick or shiny, and they can only cut 2 dimensional parts. I use my router a lot for cutting pockets in materials and you just can't do that with a laser. Lasers are really nifty for making small intricate cuts though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gta18*


@jpz,

how much total did it cost you to build the fla100 excluding the electronics?

Thanks!


I'll have to get back to you on that.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PortlandGTS*


JPZ,

I found a link to this thread from CNC Zone. I am building a FLA-300, and found your thread very useful.

I was wondering if I could get a DXF or SKP version of the files you used to make the acrylic case. I don't have VCarve, so can't use those files.

Thanks,
Tom


I am currently on vacation but when I have a chance I will look for the sketchup files. If I can find them I will cross reference them with the cut2d/vcarve files to verify the dimensions and then post a download link.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb*


@[email protected] How are things going with the CNC machine?


Unfortunately the CNC router has no seen much action lately.


----------



## PortlandGTS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jpz*


I am currently on vacation but when I have a chance I will look for the sketchup files. If I can find them I will cross reference them with the cut2d/vcarve files to verify the dimensions and then post a download link.


Thanks - I'd appreciate that very much.









Tom


----------



## Dwood

I run a CNC mill and a 4kw laser at work and that CNC router is very impressive. I wish we worked with acrylic. Ive made a case(log is in my sig) and made an acrylic top but I wish I would of waited and made it at work.

In that video what rpm and feed were you using?


----------



## jpz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwood;14513997*
> I run a CNC mill and a 4kw laser at work and that CNC router is very impressive. I wish we worked with acrylic. Ive made a case(log is in my sig) and made an acrylic top but I wish I would of waited and made it at work.
> 
> In that video what rpm and feed were you using?


Any video you saw should have had the RPM and feed in the video description. The video linked in this thread was done at 100IPM and roughly 15k RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PortlandGTS;14483403*
> Thanks - I'd appreciate that very much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom


Sorry this took so long! I have attached DXF files that contain the parts for the electronics box. Let me know if you have any trouble with it. I could not find the original sketchup files so I exported the vectors from Cut2D and I have no idea if Cut2D's exporter is any good.

I made my box from 6mm(0.236") acrylic. All the pockets for the glue joints were cut to a depth of 3mm(0.118"). All the vectors correspond to the edges of the part itself, so you should setup your toolpaths with an offset corresponding to your tool diameter rather than machining along the vectors themselves.

You may want to make some changes to the power supply mount. I had a hard time installing the power supply because there is not much to get at the screws from below. In other words getting from this step...










to this step was much more difficult than I made it look.










Try sliding the power supply back away from the stepper controller(I.E. left in the picture above). You will need to extend the main acrylic plate from which the entire box is suspended. Also, the power supply cutout is also very unforgiving- as I recall it is exactly as wide as the parts below so you should probably widen it by a tenth of an inch or so. Finally, the parts below need to be altered. See how short the bottom bits are? I would probably lengthen them by at least a quarter of an inch. Also note the holes drilled in the sides(in the vertical segments)- I couldn't actually put bolts in those holes because then the mount wouldn't fit through the PSU cutout. They really aren't necessary, so I would either not drill those holes, countersink them, or edit the PSU cutout so the screw heads can pass through.


----------



## PortlandGTS

Jpz,

Thanks for converting the files, but I can't find an attachment in your post. Not sure if you forgot it, or it's just that I'm not familiar with this forum software.

Thanks,
Tom


----------



## jpz

My apologies. It seems the forum doesn't allow attaching files in the DXF format. Try these links instead:

12-12-gray.dxf
12-24-black.dxf
EBox-FB-Panels.dxf


----------



## PortlandGTS

Got them!

Thanks again,
Tom


----------



## LouF

This is a great thread I just ordered a kit same size from Fine Line this sure will help me with my build..
Thanks Lou


----------



## rockingchris

hey JPZ

im building the same CNC router but i have problems with the wiring of my home switches, any help maybe on how to wire them?


----------



## FannBlade

Good to see you still going forward. I'm in the middle of converting my Lathe and Mill now. 3 X 425oz steppers, digital drivers,ball screws and two 1hp 3-phase motors running off VFD's controlled thru Mach 3. Can't wait to start making chips!
Should be great for making GPU back plates.

Here is my new stand in the works.


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## LouF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockingchris*
> 
> hey JPZ
> 
> im building the same CNC router but i have problems with the wiring of my home switches, any help maybe on how to wire them?


What kind of controller are you using?
Lou


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## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rockingchris*
> 
> hey JPZ
> 
> im building the same CNC router but i have problems with the wiring of my home switches, any help maybe on how to wire them?



Here a an image for limit switch wiring. A couple of things to note:

You can wire all the limit switches for all axes onto one input.
Make sure the limit switches are wired in series. They cannot be wired in parallel.
Wire the limits through the NC connection! This is the most important point as it's a safety thing. NC means normally closed and what happens here is when the switch is tripped it opens up the circuit. If you have a problem with the switch or wiring (loose or broken wire, bad switch, etc), the connection will open up and the machine will stop until you fix the problem. If you wire them up through the NO connection, when you have a faulty switch they will not trip when you hit them.
Home switches can be separate or all together on one line. The diagram shows separate but it doesn't have to be. The exception to this rule is if you have one of the larger kits with the dual drive X-Axis.
Home switches can be wired NO or NC. It doesn't really matter, just make sure you have the port set properly in Mach 3.
Let me know if you have any more questions.

Regards,

Nate


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## LouF

I have mine wired the same as the ones on top with the blue colored wire..
Lou
Oh Nate I am happy with my kit FAL-100..


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## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LouF*
> 
> I have mine wired the same as the ones on top with the blue colored wire..
> Lou
> Oh Nate I am happy with my kit FAL-100..


Glad to here it. I still owe you a tabletop video. I haven't forgot, just been really busy.

Regards,

Nate


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## LouF

Nate, thanks that would be cool..


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## IEATFISH

I'll just bump this thread. Mark my words, some day I will own a decent CNC for personal use...although with the way things are going and for my needs, 3D printers might be a better alternative.


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## Hamburglar

Thread necro...

Just wanted to say you did an excellent job on this CNC build jpz.









I am currently searching / researching for a kit that I want to start my CNC journey with and it has pretty much come down to this FLA-100 and a Joe's 4x4 Hybrid.


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## OrangeClockwerk

So glad I found this worklog! I decided to go with this CNC and build it myself over the chinese ebay ones. I will be using this as an SOP basically. thanks so much! Ill be buying the 2x3 kit as soon as I get my tax return.


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## FineLineAutomation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeClockwerk*
> 
> So glad I found this worklog! I decided to go with this CNC and build it myself over the chinese ebay ones. I will be using this as an SOP basically. thanks so much! Ill be buying the 2x3 kit as soon as I get my tax return.


We actually just released some new style 2'x4' and 4'x4' kit designs. They ended up being much more rigid and performing the the 2x3 kit. We still have the 2x3 kit and it is still a very good kit. Also, we have full assembly videos for the new kit designs. Just thought I would mention that we have some more options if you are looking for a larger capacity.

Regards,

Nate Lowrie
Fine Line Automation
[email protected]


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## OrangeClockwerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FineLineAutomation*
> 
> We actually just released some new style 2'x4' and 4'x4' kit designs. They ended up being much more rigid and performing the the 2x3 kit. We still have the 2x3 kit and it is still a very good kit. Also, we have full assembly videos for the new kit designs. Just thought I would mention that we have some more options if you are looking for a larger capacity.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Nate Lowrie
> Fine Line Automation
> [email protected]


Thats great news, though I was trying to keep my first purchase toward the CNC around 1500 and with shipping thats about what the 2x3 will cost, also the 2x3 should cover all the PC Modding applications I need for now. I will probably go larger If I design something that needs it down the road. Also I like your electronics kit and I will be getting that once I get more cash saved up. Thanks for all the info though, I will be in contact soon! =D


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## cruisor

Excellent build. I have a bunch of 8020 extrusion sitting in the shop just waiting for a project just like this. I do want to expand it by perhaps 10 inches or thereabouts. I also have seen the actual construction or nut and bolts of how it all goes together so again your build has been a real help in understanding of the process.

Regards,

Lee


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## ReaperN1

I've built a few CNC machines and I specialize in 3D printers. If you ever have any questions I'm always available. In my opinion using a CNC has a much larger learning curve than 3D printers. 3D printers are awesome and I commonly use mine for my current build I'm doing on OCN. There are a lot of misconceptions about 3D printers. They require a decent amount of maintinence and it takes a while to dial in your printer. There is also a lot of post process work involved depending on the application. It's cool to see a CNC build on here as I've been wanting to build another desktop one for awhile now. Keep up the good work.


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## jpz

Thanks guys!

I've actually done a fair bit of 3D printing in recent years. While I was in grad school my department bought a uPrint SE Plus for which I was responsible. It actually didn't require much maintenance at all so long as it was used regularly. If you let it sit too long then the filament between the spool and the print head would absorb water from the atmosphere which would cause it to bubble when heated. If the printer hadn't been used for a few weeks then we would just purge material until it starting coming out clean again.

One of the cooler things I made with the printer was a frame for a 13 gram palm-sized quadcopter. The white motor mounts were 3D printed and the whole thing is friction fit- no glue to hold the motors or PCB in place!


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## cruisor

Hello,

I'm at last preparing to start a build that will be a very close copy of what you've accomplished here. I've purchased a good quantity of the things I knew I'd need to have for this build already.

However I saw that you mentioned that you'd wished you'd built the machine bigger. Do you think that the Gantry is stout enough as is to increase the span to say an additional 12". I was planning to extend the X axis as well to 60".

Have you machined any aluminum with your machine yet? One of my goals is to insure there is enough rigidy to do light machining in aluminum as well as wood and other softer materials. Any other thoughts you might have as far as making changes to your machine would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time spent answering my questions.

Regards,

Lee


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## Spotswood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisor*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm at last preparing to start a build that will be a very close copy of what you've accomplished here. I've purchased a good quantity of the things I knew I'd need to have for this build already.
> 
> However I saw that you mentioned that you'd wished you'd built the machine bigger. Do you think that the Gantry is stout enough as is to increase the span to say an additional 12". I was planning to extend the X axis as well to 60".
> 
> Have you machined any aluminum with your machine yet? One of my goals is to insure there is enough rigidy to do light machining in aluminum as well as wood and other softer materials. Any other thoughts you might have as far as making changes to your machine would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks for your time spent answering my questions.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Lee


You should also check-out this forum: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc-router-table-machines/


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## racer100

*How Much did it cost*



jpz said:


> Hi OCN! I'm back!





jpz said:


> I am currently in the process of setting up my new 2' x 3' CNC router. This machine was constructed according to the designs of Ahren Johnson and Nate Lowrie, using their custom machined parts. These two outstanding gentlemen teamed up to form Fine Line Automation(FLA). You can find the open source plans for the the 2' x 3' router at www.finelineautomation.com, which is the same place that sells kits and parts for replicating their CNC router.
> 
> Also, I'd like to give a special shout out to Cattle Rustler- I'm testing out his build log creator software and so far all is going well!
> 
> I will be keeping a (somewhat) brief log of my experience assembling and testing my machine while also attempting to provide assembly instructions as the plans from FLA are somewhat lacking in this regard. If you download the open source plans, you will find a well organized Bill of Materials, some PDFs detailing how the 80/20 must be machined if you are processing your own 80/20, and finally a 3D E-Drawing. Essentially, you're given a list of parts and a picture of what it's all supposed to look like when you're done.
> 
> I decided to cut, drill, and tap my own 80/20 frame which I purchased from the 80/20 surplus e-bay store. I also bought aluminum bars from McMaster-Carr to make my own rails instead of buying the steel rails from FLA. Unless you have a drill press and you are a skilled machinist, I would highly recommend buying the 8020 and steel rails from FLA. I spent the past week processing 8020 and making the rails. It was a lot of work and involved much frustration. In the end I was able to make do with a hand held drill and a few clever drill jigs constructed from scrap aluminum, utilizing squares and lots of clamps. I saved around $400 in materials but that really wasn't enough to make up for time and frustration.
> 
> Ok, that's enough of an introduction! On with the build!
> 
> Specs:
> Sturdy 80/20 Aluminum Frame Sporting a 2' x 3' Workable Area
> Hitachi M12VC 2-1/4-Horsepower Variable Speed Router
> Custom Router Mount for Hitachi M12VC by K2CNC
> Gecko G540 Stepper Motor Controller
> 3x 380 oz-in Nema 23 Stepper Motors
> 350W 48V Power Supply
> Custom Machined Mounts, Bearing Blocks, and Carriages from FLA
> 
> I began by laying out the 80/20 base frame for the table, which I constructed upside down. First I took twelve 5/16" 18 BHCS (0.625" long) and screwed them half way into the ends of the horizontal pieces. There are two bolts in each circled end:
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> Next you will need four economy T-nuts, two 2" long carriage bolts, and two 5/16" 18 BHCS. It is important that you gather all the parts that need to slide into the 24" cross beams from the ends. This has to be done now, or you will find yourself disassembling the entire frame in about an hour or so once you realize your mistake:
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> Slide the carriage bolts into the rear 24" cross beam. We won't need these until later, but it will be impossible to get them into the 8020 channel after the main frame has been bolted together:
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> The same two T-nuts are circled in this picture for reference:
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> Slide the T-nuts and BHCS into the central 24" cross beam. I found it is much easier to do it this way than to try to screw the bolts into the nuts after the nuts have been put in place:
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> Then use a hex key and the access holes drilled in the 14" 8020 beam to tighten the screws. Tighten just enough so the pieces do not come apart on their own but leave it loose enough so there is still some play:
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> For the next step you need the 40.5" threaded Acme rod, one anti-backlash nut, a bearing block with bearing, bearing block cover, four washers, two needle thrust bearings, a 3.25" long 1/2" steel rod, a 1/2" shaft coupler, 1/2" clamp collar, four nylon lock nuts, two 1/4" 20 x 0.625" SHCS, two 2" carriage bolts, and a 1/2" to 1/4" anti-backlash shaft coupler:
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> * This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
> * Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip


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